How do I decide between a “Power Drain Snake” and a drain cleaning jet kit?

If there is a blockage (which it sounds like there is since it's backing up) then you probably want to snake it before jetting since jetting alone is not going to remove a big blockage.  How big is the drain? If it's large (like a 4" sewer line) then a power drill snake is probably not going to cut it and you need a drain auger with a larger diameter and some attachment options.  Something like this: .


18 gauge wire is the smallest wire allowed by the NEC for wiring within a fixture or luminaire:

  402.6 Minimum Size. Fixture wires shall not be smaller than 18 AWG.


Different circuit breakers keep tripping, some not re-setting

This is now a year old thread but after reading through the comments on the question, this almost certainly sounds like the building has developed bad wiring that is causing arcing, and constantly tripping the Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters.

The personal appliances may not be directly involved in this, other than completing the circuit, and allowing defective but idle building wiring to expose itself.

AFCIs are supposed to trip over and over until the real problem is fixed, because arc faults due to defective wiring will not go away on their own, and replacing the AFCIs themselves will not fix anything, unless it is in fact the AFCI that is arcing internally.

The building wiring can go bad all by itself even if it was originally installed and inspected properly, if there are external conditions that cause corrosion of the metal inside junction boxes, such as flooding, high building humidity, or exposure to salty ocean spray.

External forces such as earthquakes can also cause loose wiring arc faults due to pulling on wires and loosening of screw lugs and wire nuts, when buildings flex but don't collapse.

Really the solution is for the electrician (or homeowner if the jurisdiction allows it) to check the entire length of each faulting circuit, open the junction boxes from the breaker panel to all the endpoints, and check everything for loose wire nuts or loose screw terminals.

Since wire nut connections cannot be examined installed, they will all need to be removed to examine the wire ends and then retightened. All metal to metal wire contact and the inside of the wire nut should be shiny. Though if you're going through all this, it may make more sense to just replace all wire nuts with new and not bother reusing the old ones.

For push-in spring terminals, the wire end should be released, examined for corrosion or burn marks, reinserted into the spring terminal, and checked for firm anchoring with light tugging.

Outlet sockets and lamp fixtures can also arc inside where the plug or lamp base is inserted.

Check any device plugs for dark burn marks on the blades, or darkened scorch marks on socket faces where the blades go in. Replace both the burned wall sockets and the device plugs, not just one of them or the problem will restart.

Likewise check all lamp sockets for blackened or pitted / welded contacts and replace both the socket and lamp if found, because arcing causes unwanted heating and building fires.

If the problem persists after checking all easily examined junctions and terminals, the arcing can hidden be inside enclosed circuit devices that are not designed to be opened and examined, such as switches and receptacle sockets that are riveted/glued shut, or their hidden internal push-in spring terminals. It may be necessary to replace all of these circuit devices to see if the ACFI tripping finally stops.

Ideally if the circuit tripping occurs when some specific thing happens, this will likely lead you to the quickest resolution, such as "when I turn this room light on/off, the AFCI trips"... so in order of complexity, check the lamp socket, the lamp base, try replacing the sealed light switch with a new one, and then move on to examining all the building wiring end-to-end from the AFCI to the lamp, including in the lamp fixture itself.

Finally, if possible try to locate the cause of the external stress / damage factors, and attempt to prevent or alleviate them.

In some cases the building wiring may need to be changed, such as switching to using watertight and gasketed conduit to protect wiring that corroded due to high humidity exposure.

Wiring strain damage caused by earthquakes and building movement can be reduced by leaving coiled slack in the walls or junction boxes, so that the wiring has room to flex and move without pulling junction or terminal connectors apart.

Wiring and devices that are exposed to frequent vibration, position adjustment, or heating and cooling cycles can also develop loose and arcing connections, and may require design changes or more frequent inspection for damage.


If there's a Y terminal on the furnace, you should connect the Y wire from the furnace and one of the wires from the condensing unit to it.

I typically connect the red wire from the condensing unit to Y, and the white to C. Not that it really matters, that's just how I do it.

Other than that, it sounds good.


Can I use a *ground wire only* conduit for copper data cables?

What do you mean by “retrofit ground?” This phrase makes no sense to me.
If you have a 3 wire feeder (L1, L2 and a “grounded” conductor, aka a neutral) you dont have a ground at the shed and one must be established using one of the approved methods found in article 250 of NFPA 70 (assuming you’re in the USA). You reference 1999, which is a NEC code cycle year in which 3 wire feeders were probably permitted.
If you have a 3 wire feeder to the shed you would have had to install... ground rods or a UFER etc..   The neutral and ground bus bars in the panel would have to be bonded together and you would be establishing a new ground at the shed.
With a feeder, it is required in NFPA 70 that the grounding conductor/ ground wire be ran/routed with the ungrounded and grounded conductors. See Articles 250.24(c) or 250.118 or 250.186(A) and/or 300.3(b) of the NEC.
You cannot just throw a ridged metal conduit in the ground and bond it between your source and your shed and now say its grounded. The ground path must be routed with the current carrying conductors and be installed in a very particular manner.
Your second idea about using PVC with a number 2Al also doesn’t meet the requirement that the conductors all be routed together.
If you install a second conductor between the source and the shed. This second conductor needs to be treated differently from the grounded (neutral) conductor because it isn’t a current carrying conductor (it isn’t meant to carry the unbalance neutral current, its purpose is to facilitate the operation of the over current protection device (breaker) at the source.
Bottom line: if you want to “retrofit” your ground you will need to pull a ground”ing” wire in the same raceway/pathway as the other 3 current carrying conductors. You will need to separate the grounds and neutrals at the shed so that you dont have parallel paths to ground. And deal appropriately with any and all parallel metal paths between the source and the shed.
Again, check article 250 for requirements on grounding and article 230 for feeder requirements.


It's hard to tell from the picture but there should be three copper tubing extensions coming down from the faucet under the sink. Two are water supply lines - hot and cold - and the other supplies the water to the sprayer. Sometimes these hose are attached to the copper extensions by quick-connect clips sometimes by threaded connections. It appears that yours are threaded. Be sure to turn off the water to both the hot and cold supply lines before disconnecting anything.
You should be able to remove the lines from the copper extensions with a couple of properly sized open-end or adjustable wrenches. The threaded nuts will turn in a counter-clockwise direction (lefty loosey - righty tighty). Hold one wrench on the copper nut and the other on the chrome piece with the flat sides. Turn the chrome nut counter-clockwise when looking up. After you get them off you should be able to slide the ring over all three copper extensions - that's why they are staggered with different lengths. You may also need to remove the weight on the sprayer hose if you have one. They usually just unclip with a little pressure.


To me, it doesn't look like it's coming from above.  It looks like something splashed on the ceiling, or condensation formed on the ceiling.

If this is a bathroom or kitchen, try running the exhaust fan during showers and while cooking.

The only way to be sure it's not coming from above, is to get up in the attic and have a look around.


Electrical service sizing mix up in Mexico

Why 30A service?

Because of provisioning.  They are not able to provision 50A service at this time at this location.  That is probably due to transformer or pole-line wire capacity in the neighborhood.  Giving everyone 50/60A service means they would be oversubscribing their transformers and pole lines.  This would necessitate a big capital expense upgrading those, and that is not commercially feasible right now.

If you want more service, tell them you need more service and pay whatever additional they charge you for the additional "share" of the transformer.

Safety regs

Given that you think inspection does not exist, can you just ignore safety regs altogether and do what you want?  Sure, what could possibly go wrong?

If the power company charges extra for fitting a 50/60A breaker, and you haven't paid the upcharge, then if you fit a 60A breaker behind their back, that is plain theft of service.  I don't know how that's handled in Mexico, but it would be well within their right to remove their service drop and refuse to provision to your address any power at all.
If the transformer blows up, they are going to quickly walk the street and see which neighbors have illegally changed their 30A breaker to 50/60A.  They will be deemed responsible for the transformer blow, and they will buy the neighborhood a new transformer and wiring.
If there is a house fire in any way relating to this, the fire insurance will balk at paying, and because an illegal act was behind it, the mortgage lender will come after you personally for the value of the house.
It may be a challenge to sell this house in the future.

Getting 100A out of 2x50A

Split-phase power doesn't work that way.

If you had 50A@240V service, which you do not, you do not have any way to get 100A@120V.  What you could get is 50A @ 120V in two instances.

So if you have a single 100A@120V load (not likely) you could not power it off 240V/50A service. However, if you have eight 12A@120V loads, you could put four on one side of the service (48A) and four on the other side (48A) and you'd be solid.  Derating notwithstanding, of course.

Electric large appliances out of this 30A service

Not gonna happen.

If you attempt to run an 30A electric dryer, it would have to be the only large appliance running at the time.
A 30A electric water heater is impracticable because you can't control when it cycles.
An electric range is Right Out; they draw too much.
A 240V/30A air conditioner is also out of the question, since it runs too often for "turning everything else off" to ever work.

If you have any of these coming in, talk to the power company, or Craigslist.

If you have a 20A-breakered (16A) 240V appliance, that might have a shot of working.


can I use aluminum stranded wire in terminal screw for installing outlet?

You're supposed to connect to aluminum wire using connections listed for use with aluminum wire.   There is nothing magical about one style of connector vs. another, you can't say "all X type are ok for aluminum", they have to be individually listed for aluminum.

You also cannot put aluminum wire on common receptacles, get your money back from whoever taught you that, it's dangerously wrong.

There are aluminum wire nuts, but they aren't reliable.  The gold standard for pigtailing or splicing aluminum and/or copper wires is **alumiconns*, a mini verson of a mains lug.  Like most lugs,  Alumiconns are made of aluminum.  Turns out aluminum lugs work fine with both wires, copper lugs don't.

Regardless, you don't need to pigtail.  You can directly attach aluminum wires to a receptacle with a CO-ALR rating for its connections, meaning it is compatible with both copper and aluminum. These cost a few dollars more, and have weird gray metal on their terminations.


Your other option is to fit a short concrete post, and bolt the wooden post to it. It's more expensive, but the concrete won't rot when the hole fills with water.
Around here they're often called a 'grandfather' but apparently the official name is a 'repair spur'


Is there a superior leveling system to avoid lippage in tile flooring?

One of the newest and most comprehensive tile leveling systems on the market that I deal with is the Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System by RTC.  It is tool-less, can be used as spacers in addition to leveling, and is relatively easy to use.  RTC has a video on youtube video showing how to use it: https://youtu.be/NwP1OW1-7L0


How do I install a SensaSwitch on a 3-way circuit?

Unfortunately, the OP will not be able to do anything without running a new wire between the two boxes, or giving us more info about the other box -- there's no neutral at the box he's trying to put the SensaSwitch at, and the SensaSwitch needs a neutral to power itself.


How do fish tank stands take the weight?

Yes the load (weight) is distributed to the sides and the 5 cross members that are visible in the picture share the job of keeping the stand square(lateral support). The bottom one and the one in the shade doing the brunt of that job. The top deck is to transfer the weight to the sides and the top illuminated cross member keeps it from sagging as does the large shaded cross member.


They work well. I find that it is best once you have the length set correctly you trim off some of the extra, bend a tab to hold the shape, and use foil tape on the inside seams and outside seams to seal them. This helps prevent leakage lint from trapping as much on the corners.


Should switch cover plates be installed before final inspection?

Usually they do require the cover plate to verify the box is set correctly.  Each inspector is different but some don't like DIY folks, especially in Lane County, Oregon. Benton & Linn counties were not so bad (I haven't worked up in Portland for ~15 years) but they usually want everything finished. I have seen inspectors fail an install because the wires were coated with sheet rock mud & paint.


An outlet tester is a great way to determine that an outlet is wired correctly. They are also useful to show that the correct breaker has been tripped before you start working. Take pictures before you disconnect anything so you'll have accurate information in case you have to come back here and ask questions. Follow the directions that will be included with the outlets. Also, make sure none of the outlets are switched as that could interrupt your charging.


Your microwave likely has a shorted transformer, magnetron, or rectifier diode, and should be repaired by an appliance technician if it is expensive enough to justify the cost.  If it is inexpensive, then not only can it be replaced cheaply, but repair parts for inexpensive microwaves are likely not available in the first place.


I do not have a well, and not a water expert, but I have a recurring water leak problem and thought I'd share my experience in case it helps.  I recently experienced a problem similar to what you described - water kept running but nothing I could touch was leaking.  I could hear water running (high pitch sound), but could not locate the leak.  I finally checked under my house, in a crawl space, and it was very wet.  It turned out that the leak was underground in a rusty old galvanized  pipe.  I am still cursing that P.O.S. and the fact that any fool ever used galvanized rust prone metal.

One other way I've been able to detect water leaks is by using a cheap stethoscope.  I once had a very expensive plumber come out with an electronic stethoscope attached to a read-out, but since then have been able to narrow in on leaks in walls by using the stethoscope (and saving myself about $1000 / event).


Is there a shower drain pipe in this picture?

A shower drain needs a trap, so check under the cap on the left to see if there's a trap or a straight drain. If it's straight, then your assumptions are likely right that it's a toilet and the other one is a clean-out (fix that cap, you don't want sewer gases getting it). If you don't have a shower drain here, then I'm guessing it's only roughed in for a half bath.

I don't imagine the 2" would be anything other than a vanity drain.

With the "vent," I'm left wondering if it's really a drain since I see a clean-out installed on it. I'd recommend tracing that line up the walls, as best you can, to verify it really is a vent.

As for where the horizontal line is going to the left, perhaps a washer dryer, or perhaps the plumber screwed up the T and it should be pointing to the right for the sink. It's hard to tell from here.


You'll need some quality masonry drill bits or some diamond core bits depending on the size of the holes you'll be drilling.
The hammer drill you picked out will do the job, just take your time, let the drill do the work.
You do not want to use molly anchors. They are for drywall or plaster hollow walls. Personally, I'd be using lag shields, 3/16", and lag screws. Their length depends on the size wood panel.
Drill into the stone, not the mortar. The mortar will crumble with the anchors.
And for God's sake, wear safety goggles!!!


I really don't have time to write a good answer, but I have and others have written some good responses that would answer your question.  Look at the tags for mold.  ID is important before remediation can be done. You have to know what kind of mold you are dealing with. Some minor mold can be dealt  with DIY, but other toxic molds need professional attention. Samples need to be taken and IDed by a lab. Don't take chances, get it right.


Is chert a suitable base for a concrete driveway?

I worked for a place that sold limestone base, and am familiar with DOT specs for roads and parking lots. I have two concerns with your proposal:

4" of sub+base is not enough if the soil doesn't drain well; you will get potholes within a couple years,especially if you park about the same place each day.  6" of limestone should handle cars, 8" should handle heavy trucks. A thick base might seem like a lot of extra up-front cost, but a strong foundation will not only eliminate future maintenance, it will result in a flatter less puddle/ice prone surface.
Use limestone, 100%. No contest. Chert isn't even anything particular; it could be a wide variety of minerals with no composition guarantees. Certain minerals called chert, like jasper, fracture smoothly and result in a weak matrix. Other chert minerals like flint are quite brittle and suffer from compaction. Limestone on the other hand is mostly calcium, one of the strongest and stablest minerals. Oyster shells are perhaps the best base material, but limestone is also mostly calcium and MUCH cheaper.

If you use properly-compacted limestone, in most climates, you can just hotmix the top and it will last 20+ years. Asphalt's bad rep is because people skimp on base. If you want concrete for aesthetics and don't have trucks, you won't need 4 full inches of it if you have a good base (6"+), so you can recover some cost there.

bottom line: I've seen parking lots fail before the painted lines wore off because of bad and insufficient base, resulting in the whole thing being redone. Compared to that kind of cost, "splurging" on 6" of the best base available is a long-term bargain. If you do go with chert, make sure it's very well compacted and use at least 8" before surfacing. Since you have to use less limestone to achieve the same level of quality, it might be more competitive than unit costs alone suggest.


You can use most types of conduit outdoors, though some will require liquidtight fittings. Cost wise, and due to the ease of use, I'd recommend schedule 80 PVC conduit.

schedule 80 PVC conduit http://static.hardwarestore.com/media/product/636554_front500.jpg

As long as you use the proper size conduit and boxes, you can indeed run all the circuits through the same conduit.

If you used 14 AWG THWN conductors (15 ampere circuit), you could jam them into 1/2" schedule 80 PVC conduit. If you want a bit easier pull, you could use 3/4" schedule 80 PVC conduit.  If you're using 12 AWG THWN conductors (20 ampere circuit), you'll have to use 3/4" schedule 80 PVC conduit. I figured for 3 conductors per circuit (hot, neutral, ground), so that's 9 total.

If the circuit is GFCI protected, you can install the conduit 12" underground. If it's not, you'll have to go 18" deep. Since you're installing outdoor outlets, you'll have to GFCI protect them anyway. If you use a GFCI breaker, you can provide that protection, and save yourself some digging.

Wherever you go in or out of the ground, you'll want to install an expansion fitting.


That's an IKEA MAXIMERA Drawer side. You have to turn the cam nut (circled in red) and either depress or pry away the metal tab to release it (that's why it goes click) and then pull out the bracket.

(source)


Can fluorescent recessed lighting with four wires be converted to a two wire incandescent socket?

Unfortunately, you'd have to completely rewire the fixture -- the four-pin base is a sign that the fixture has an integral fluorescent ballast and starter, which provide the current limited, high-ish voltage needed for a fluorescent tube (irrespective of what shape it's twisted into) to operate.


How do I remove a stuck sink soap dispenser?

I would use pipe pliers and if they fail then I would look to cut the threaded portion with a saw of some type.

In the past I have cut similar items in constricted areas by just using a hacksaw blade wrapped in a cloth to protect the fingers - slow slow progress but got there...


Can I use auto primary wire to add a new receptacle in my garage?

I would extend the circuit for the additional outlet using approved mains wiring. Being that the existing uses 14 awg wire use the same type to hook up the new outlet. The cost of the correct style of wire will not be that great.

AC mains wiring has agency approved style insulation on the wiring designed to properly stand up to the voltage and abrasion tolerance needed for the application. Typical automotive wiring may not meet these requirements. I do hope that your existing 14-2 wiring is actually 14-2/wGND.

Another consideration is that the solid mains style wiring works much better under the screw terminals on switches and outlets than stranded wire. In automotive application the stranded wire is used because it is more flexible and works very well with crimp style terminals.


can I convert four-wire 250 volt, 30 amp dryer to two 125 volt dual outlet receptacles?

You could make a MWBC out of this /3 + gnd cable and install two 20 A receptacles. You would change the 2-pole 30 A breaker to a 2-pole 20 A breaker.

If the conductors are aluminum, you would pigtail with 12 AWG copper. If the conductors are 10 AWG copper, you might be able to connect these directly to the contacts on the receptacles.

I would make these to 20 A so that if you ever needed to run heavy current demand appliances, you'd have the capability.

EDIT To install a single duplex receptacle in the box, you would split the hot sides by breaking the connecting tab. The black wire would go to the hot side of one receptacle and the red to the hot side of the other.

The neutral side tab would be left intact.


What is the name of this connector for my fridge's wooden panel?

Sounds like a bracket or a flange to me, check the parts browser here, you might get something close.


Looks like it is correct. Try to keep the vent opening (the 2" branch of wye) within 2' of the stool flange. It appears the wye is rolled up slightly, which is good.  The toilet gurgle could be due to design of toilet.


Slow drain after tub-to-shower conversion

If you didn't take out a trap it is likely in the ground, and the shown section added a second trap, having two traps in line is the problem, it is called double trapping.

The air in between the two traps is stuck and requires some pressure to clear and start the water flowing, provided by your build up of water in the shower.  This region between the traps is also more likely to accumulate material and clog, which is likely why it is getting worse.

It can be fixed by venting between the traps, or removing one of them, but since they are both in concrete it is not an easy fix.  Short term you could try and snake the drain or use other methods to try and clear debris to improve drainage, but it is going to be a problem.


3-way switch loop wired with two 14-2 and one 14-3

You have the power supply coming in from the ceiling (i.e. right side 14-2) and being sent down to the switch or switches (i.e. left side 14-2). What's then sent back to the light or ceiling box is coming through the 14-3 and would be or indicates there was a either ceiling fan here previously (using the wrong type of electrical box) or that it was wired for one (ceiling fan box would've or should've replaced the standard box).

In a ceiling fan setup, the 14-3's black would be powering the fan and the red would power the ceiling fan's light (based on picture below). I'm hesitant to include a picture, since I couldn't find your exact setup and add to the confusion. But, the picture below is similar to your situation, however they skipped the 2nd 14-2 and just used the white to feed power to the switches...I agree much more with your setup.

I would expect there to be a capped black at the switch box and would like to see that 1 black disconnected and capped also in the ceiling box, if not being used. Though, that 3rd black could be going off to power something else with the switch box also being used as a junction box. Sorry, I can't be definitive without more pictures.


Yes, you can run the GEC through the same hole as other cables.
The GEC is a non-current-carrying conductor, so there is no heating issues to worry about.


Cleaning and lubing vintage door hardware

Graphite has long been a popular lock lubricant. The properties that make it a good choice are that it is dry so it won't attract dust, it can get into very small spaces and it is not affected by cold or heat. It used to be dissolved in alcohol brushed onto the pieces. when the alcohol evaporated it left the graphite in place. Now it is available in aerosols which makes it more convenient to use.


the other option, you can make tile patio with a design of mosaic, that is quiet cool... : )


Dehumidifier produces 100 g of water every day. No effect on relative humidity

Using calculations for a "sealed" room isn't going to work unless you've actually sealed the room. (Do not actually seal the room.) Otherwise, moisture will seep into the room around the door, plus whenever you open the door, as well as various other pathways.
A person generates (according to the Internet) 50-90 grams of water vapor an hour, so the dehumidifier isn't even keeping up with your output.
Now, the dehumidifier should be doing more than it is, especially at that level of humidity. You should be able to get numbers for your dehumidifier that tell how much water it can remove from the air at a given humidity level. It probably needs some cleaning or repair.


How can I power IP camera from same lan cable as wifi AP over POE?

There are PoE pass through switches.

The issue is that you have multiple devices, IP camera, WAP and the switch is likely to exceed your power budget.

Also the cost of any switches, splitters or injectors that may be able to do this would likely exceed the cost of a short cable run.

Wifi cameras generally suck and your issue is power anyway, IP data is not very power intensive.

If though the cable run for some reason is nigh on impossible, ideally see if there are altenative power sources near your WAP, if so you may be able to install a small PoE switch at that location or possibly a power supply for a camera or the WAP also which removes the need for PoE pass through and a normal switch or small PoE powered switch can be used. Not the finest solution but gives you a bit more options.


From the tear it looks like aluminum. I'd bend all the pieces back into the original shape and then fill in the cracks and skim coat the area with some J B Weld. This stuff works great. It can be sanded to smooth it out and then painted to match your gutter and is completely resistant to water.


The end of line relay is intended to make sure all the detectors have power and all detectors are present.

The wiring for each detector is such that all wires are connected IN and OUT.  At the end of the line a final device, the end of line relay, ensures the the entire circuit is powered.  Note that the IN and OUT wiring to each detector provides the supervision to the entire string.  If you were to say pigtail the wires at each detector and then only use IN terminals then each detector is NOT supervised because that wiring error allows the circuit to function with a detector removed.

For each 4-wire smoke detector, you must actually connect 8-wires to each detector. To maintain supervision you cannot shortcut this with pigtail style wiring.

Heat detectors are just simple 2 wire devices that don't require power.   While they technically  can be mixed with 4 wire smoke detectors on the same zone, for the system to remain listed you would need to use a separate zone for 2 wire heat detectors.


Bathroom Toilet + Shower Venting Fitting Question

Nice picture - looks correct to me. The vent is for sure close enough.


Looking to modify behavior of aux heaters

When you have a heat pump the thermostat that controls it is a 2 stage thermostat. The first stage controls the heat pump and the second stage controls the heat strips. The heat pump operates off the first stage and if it can not produce enough heat and the indoor temperature falls below the thermostats set point by a certain amount the second stage energizes the heat strips. The heat pump will usually operate constantly and the heat strips will cycle on and off on the second stage part of the thermostat. There are a few different ways these units can operate depending upon the thermostat, unit and the wiring of these systems. Yours is probably the way I described. If you want to change the way the heat strips operate contact an HVAC contractor in your area and ask what your options are. Hope this helps


How to stabilize half-wall below an interior portal?

First, you'll want to place double studs on either side of your opening (currently you have some on the left but not right, as viewed from the kitchen). Then add horizontal members at the top and bottom of the opening, fastened into those studs. This will add a lot of rigidity by preventing the knee-wall studs from swinging left/right/out. Finally, add some screws through your drywall to the new structural members.

If you're keeping the plumbing/electrical chase in the center, the framing of that will offer some more stability.

Because one side of this wall is in a kitchen, there's also the possibility you'll attach cabinets or other built-ins to this wall. If so, those will add some further rigidity by essentially bracing the wall against the floor.

If those aren't enough, you could add horizontal or diagonal bracing to the wall, or even expand it into a double-stud (wider) wall. Those would be more extreme measures, and I doubt you'll need them.


How to handle a corner when using an L schluter edge?

A clean miter cut does indeed leave a very sharp corner. Since these are mill-finish, you can very lightly file or sand the resulting edge, just so it's not going to cut skin. You don't want to take so much that it's visually rounded.

If that's not acceptable, the only other idea I have is to bevel the corners of your backsplash slightly using two 22-1/2* angles, leaving a small flat where the original corner was. This does result in a very different look, though... almost a ranch-style effect.

Update: If you were to cut away the entire base flange for a short distance, you could probably bend the remaining face into a round corner. You'd have to experiment a bit to get something that doesn't tear. Aluminum seems soft, but it doesn't handle sharp bends like steel does.


Are misplaced, unused anchor bolts a problem?

Sloppy workmanship aside (could have been the mason or the carpenters), this probably isn't a serious issue. Anchor bolts are most critical in tornado and earthquake zones, but there are usually many installed, and a few that miss won't substantially increase the chance of disaster.

The builder should at least cut them off neatly, flush with the concrete. They're ugly and a bit of a safety concern. If they won't do that, you can do so with a metal-cutting blade in a reciprocating saw or hack saw.

As a resolution I'd ask whether new bolts were drilled into the foundation when it was discovered that the wall would miss the original bolts. If not, you'll have to decide whether to pursue the matter in a legal sense.


how do I replace a single union pressure reducing valve?

A slight hack job, but you should not need a torch, unless the new valve does not have the same thread options.

Wrench big enough to grab the body of the valve itself. To begin with, hold it still.

Wrench to remove the union nut (first) while roundly cursing the installer and inspector who said "Yup, the ground is bonded across this thing" while not providing enough grounding cable to make replacing it easy. You don't want to remove that bonding wire from the pipe, is the thing....

Then a wrench the size of the wrench flats on the fitting above (to hold it still) while using the wrench on the valve itself to unscrew that (there appear to be internal pipe threads as well as the external union threads.)

Reverse the process to install the new valve.


Are the cold and hot water circuits typically isolated in residential plumbing?

Yes, you can leave the main on.  Just shut off the inlet to the water heater.  Your hot taps at the sinks won't work of course (the cold will), but then you can drain the tank.  If the tank has some age on it, expect it to take a while too, lime often builds up and clogs the drain outlet.


Found solution. Just connected C blue wire to the T terminal on the old furnace.


How to pump water from two cisterns with one pump

Put the second cistern above the first cistern, and let gravity move the water from the second into the first, leaving the pump on the first. Use a valve on the pipe from the second to the first to prevent overflowing the first when both are full/being filled.


Your 350/350/4/4 AL for the 400A entrance cable from the meter seems undersized.  even using the residential NEC 310.15 83% of 400 for 332A would require 500KCMIl for the hots and 300 KCMIL for the neutral using the 70% rule at 90C (if your utility allows that).
Unless I missed your point and you are protecting this line with a 200A breaker from the 400Amp panel to feed the future house. (and then, your wire seems perfect!)


How to frame bypass doors with metal studs?

You will need a rough opening of 61" wide for a wood jamb. This will allow room for 3/4" material and shim space for critical shimming to get it dead straight and plumb. Will need more info for the R.O. height....
When you set your steel track to the floor, cut it so the ends meet the rough opening dimensions. Set the steel studs back 1 1/2" from the ends at the rough opening. A double 2X6 header with a plywood filler should work for practically any door of any weight you choose to use.
Screw the wood jack studs to the steel studs using coarse thread screws Same with the bottom of the jack studs where it sets in the bottom track. Set your header on top of the jacks and screw them in place. Ideally to the jack studs too, but you may need pilot holes to minimize splitting.
Be certain you use the proper set back for the finishes whether you are using wood jambs and casing or going with a simple drywall wrap.

I don't know how much room your particular bypass hardware takes up, but if you have your doors already and they are 6'8" and your track and roller use another 2" to 2 1/2", you have room for a plate under the joist. Secure it well to the joist that is over it, shimming it flat and level if needed and set the track directly to that. Use 9/16" thick wood trim to cover the track so it flushes up with the drywall once that is installed, then the trim/casing will cover the joint between the head covering and drywall.
The metal studs will be 1/8" wider than the wood plate. Using 9/16" material at the top should allow the 1/2" drywall and wood trim filler to lay flush with one another.


400 Amp service to 225 amp and 150 amp panels

I'm concerned you're overthinking this.   You're not required to section out your 400A allotment to X for one building, Y for another etc. that totals up to 400.  You are allowed to "oversubscribe" the buildings, so long as they're behind breakers.
Also keep in mind, 400A is a lot of power. All-electric houses have long gotten by on 100A.
Build your system to have the versatility for any site to use full power
For simplicity and economy, I'd simply do the bog-standard "two 200A panels" that everybody does with 400A service.   House panel A and B.
However, I'd make house panel B "special".  I'd use a panel with thru lugs. The thru-lugs are after the panel's main breaker, but otherwise just hotshot straight off the bus.
Off the thru-lugs, I would continue 200A wires the 20 feet to the bunkhouse. Hey, it's only 20 feet, the cost of 4 wires isn't going to beat you up too bad.   There, I'd fit a 225A (for the safety margin) main breaker panel.  The breaker's value doesn't matter; it's only there to be a disconnect, which is required for an outbuilding.
Is it an outbuilding? The minimum standard for "not an outbuilding" is "connected by a breezeway", so you can skip the main breaker and go main-lug if there's a breezeway or better.
What this means, is house panel B and the bunkhouse share a 200A breaker.
From this panel in the bunkhouse, go ahead and feed the other buildings.  You can feed them with a breaker from bunkhouse's panel... Or if you want to carry full 200A onward to the next building, go ahead and do that - you can just "tee" off the feeder wires coming into the top of the bunkhouse breaker.  (that is to say, the 200A line to the garage does not need to be protected by the bunkhouse breaker, since it's already protected by the panel B breaker.)
Personally if I were me, I'd feed the dockside with a <=50A breaker, and the reason is so I can make it GFCI.  I feel strongly that all wiring anywhere near water should be under GFCI protection, and that GFCI protection should be placed far from dockside, back at the supply point.  That way if something happens inside the dockside subpanel, or to the feeder wires, it too is protected. Electrical drownings are serious, and dockside is where that happens the most.
You won't be maxing out house, bunkhouse, garage and boathouse at once
This is the part where we get to "oversubscribe" a bit.  You're vanishingly unlikely to be welding in the garage at the same time you're running the A/C and cooking on a boat at the same time you're using hot water and cooking in a bunkhouse at the same time you're cooking and doing laundry in the main house.  There are only so many of you, after all.
So that means it's perfectly OK to potentially have 50A of boathouse load with 100A of garage load (Tesla fast charger) with 100A of all-electric house in the bunkhouse with 120A of stuff in the main house.  You simply are not capable of maxing them all at once.
However, back at the house, I would make careful choices about which loads I put in the exclusive panel A vs which in the shared panel B.  Have the shared panel contain loads like bedrooms, basement, living rooms, maybe garbage disposal and microwave - loads you are unlikely to "pull hard" while being active in the garage or dockside.  Loads that you realistically do pull quite hard, like A/C, heat pump emergency heat, water heater, range etc. go in the exclusive Panel A.


Mounting Computer Under Particle Board Desk

While there's no problem mounting things to particle board as others have described, 1/2" is just too thin to work with. I would mount another board under your desk using construction or wood glue, at least doubling the current thickness of the top.

After that has set up for a day, I'd mount with 3/4" screws (or longer, depending on final thickness), properly piloted.

I've mounted many things to 3/4" particle board from below, including dual coat hooks that my kids have used for years. 1/2" just doesn't offer enough grab. It's likely that the screws will pull out a layer of material when it all comes crashing down.


What could cause water hammer after changing a valve cartridge?

Here is what I found.  I went to the hardware store and located two of the replacement valve cartridge made by Delta.  Reading the back of them I found that one was for faucet made after 2005 and the other was for faucet made before 2006.  Being that my house was built in 2000 I went for the one made before 2006.  I then replaced the after market cartridge with the new one from Delta and now life is good.

The after market product does not mention anything about manufacturing year so I am thinking it is for newer versions of the Delta 1400 Series shower faucets.


Shade in front of second floor condo window

What could I do to reduce the amount of heat in the living room on sunny days without obstructing the view to the outside permanently?

What I find works well are traditional Venetian-blinds with silver-coloured metal horizontal slats.

Even though these are inside the window, they are still remarkably effective at reflecting sunlight out the window and preventing sunlight from heating interior surfaces such as carpets.

They also let air through when you open your window, which can be an advantage if the air outside is not hot.

By adjusting the angle, you can allow indirect light in to illuminate the room, and allow you to see out, while simultaneously blocking direct sunlight completely.

The traditional French system of external slatted wooden shutters and windows that open inwards is probably better - but that is not an option available to you.

A typical German solution is external slatted roller blinds that have small gaps between the slats which only close up when the blind is fully down. But these are usually installed when the building is constructed and are not easy to add afterwards.


How can I connect the wire that goes to the grounding rod to the grounding electrode system?

There is no separate ground bar in that panel because it is the main panel. Both grounds and neutrals share the same bar. Just know that if you add a ground bar only grounds can terminate on that bar.

For reference: YES, that is a main panel. It is a split-buss panel. The top twelve spaces are "main" breaker spaces, and technically should only have two-pole breakers. Breaker 9/11 is a "lighting main" and controls the bottom 8 breakers.


How to remove a rusty screw and cap from a toilet

Use a Dremel with a cut off grinder wheel. Works fast and precise. Buy new screws. No holding of screws required. There are thousands other purposes for the Dremel tool you will discover. And it's fun.


Do these cracks indicate the foundation problem of a building?

These type of cracks that run diagonally from the corners of a window are almost always caused by settling. They are very common and most of the time do not mean a continuing problem unless the cracks are open causing a measurable change in the spacing of the bricks or block. You have to look lower to determine if there is more evidence of settling at the foundation level or at the lentil of another window or door located below the window with the visible crack. Also check the interior for shifting of the window trim, plaster or drywall. Check the level and plum of the window to see if there is any movement.   In these pics, I do not see a large movement, but it is too bad the repair was not done with the same color mortar.


I have experienced problems with the bulbs not screwing all the way in, usually due to the shape of the LED bulb not being quite the same as an incandescent bulb, and at least once from malformed threads.

Since your bulb works in other fixtures, I'd bet on the one fixture having something that the LED bulbs are sticking on before they get all the way in, or that the center contact has been flattened by some previous bulb and needs (with the circuit breaker for this circuit off, please) to be gently bent/pulled up; or in case of severe damage, replace the socket, or the fixture.


Trying to change a lightbulb out of a ceiling fixture

See that dimple in the third photo? I' guessing that there are three or four of them. They engage with slots in the other half of the housing.

Rotate the lower portion counter-clockwise roughly as far as the dimple is long and it should come down. You may have to align the screws on top with their slots as well. Loosen the set screw to avoid scratches.


If it was me I would use 2x2 steel stud in front of the brick ( assuming that gives enough room for required r value). Wood that thin doesn't really hold shape very well it tends to curve and banana. A disadvantage of 2x2 steel would be that it isn't very strong if you need to hang anything off of the wall. If you did need to hang something like a TV then you could frame in a section of three-quarter inch plywood.

In terms of running your pipes ensure that they are on the house side of the insulation. Do not bury water pipes in insulation if your region experiences freezing temperatures.

With this method you have one continuous plumb and flat wall from floor to ceiling. Then you are free to do whatever you want to do in behind it. I would add some ties to aid with lateral movement.


How to put a clean hole in concrete block?

To make a clean, precise hole in concrete, use a diamond core bit. Your small, cheap drill probably does not have sufficient torque and runs too fast for a core bit this large. But you can rent a heavy duty drill and core bit.
Wikimedia Image


How do I replace a bulb in this bathroom light/fan?

Try turning the glass and see if it has hooks that hold it in place (kind of like how a smoke detector hangs onto that plate on the ceiling).


How can I repair this rotted section of wood siding?

Frankly, replacing one horizontal run like that probably isn't worth the effort, unless there will be lots of rain in the future.  It may well be sufficient to strip, putty the gaps, caulk the edges, and paint.

Otherwise, you'll have to replace the siding panel.  Remove the bench and wall.  Remove the siding, and renew.

The tools and materials are straightforward:  hammer, pry bar, screwdriver (if anything is held with screws—probably nothing is), elbow grease, and patience.  Nails or screws, a new siding panel, primer, caulk, and paint is all that should be needed.


Adapting Halo H71CT for 12" joist centers

Turns out the video was wrong.  The pamphlet that comes with the light has instructions for breaking off these arms at the score points. You have to bend them in the right direction.  I tried another one and this worked fine.


How to run wire through steel garage floor system

The common way of doing this is to use conduit and surface mount all boxes. The conduit provides mechanical protection (especially important for a shop) and the nice thing about this it keeps everything accessible, in case you want to add lights or a power drop for a tool or something later.

Alternatively, you may also be able to use MC (armored cable) wiring, though with a quick search I can't find a specific NEC reference to this, so probably best to refer to your local inspector / authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to check.


AFCI/GFCI Breakers Trip Intermittently/Simultaneously

The part where you said they all trip simultaneously and the fact they're all back-to-back makes me suspect of a bad buss bar.  Other than that there should not be any correlation between any of these isolated circuits.  It's plausible, but highly unlikely the manufacturer shipped out a bad case of breakers and the installer just happened to install them back-to-back but realistically not heard of.  Just replace or as Trevor mentioned in his comment swap the known good AFCI with known bad ones and check buss bar for burnt marks.  See what happens.


How to secure apartment windows with external fire esscape

Alarm
You could pick up a magnetic window/door alarm (some more expensive models may also have glass break sensors).

If the window is opened, the alarm will sound.
Secure the window
You could purchase, or make a "security bar" similar to the ones used for sliding doors.

This will make it more difficult to open the window, though would not protect against breaking the glass. If you make/purchase an adjustable version, you would even be able to leave the window open slightly and still be protected (as long as it's not open enough for the intruder to slip in).
Protecting the glass
There are many companies that make Security Window Films, that can be applied to glass to make it "unbreakable".
Depending on your budget for this project, a combination of these products would be the best solution.


I'm hoping Solar Mike's solution works and solves your problem but that's a lot of twisting to correct by "pushing" and seems like it would be likely to revert back to the way it was built.
You're new at woodworking and your job looks pretty good, except for the gap. I don't thing a spacer will give you the desired effect you're looking for, especially for a secret door. Bite the bullet and fix it right, your option #3. If you don't, it will probably bug you every time you look at it and you will eventually end up fixing it right. We've all been there, done that. The more you try to cover up a mistake, the worse it looks. Just my humble opinion.


Should I use urethane spray foam or foam rope for caulking wide gaps?

There are pros and cons to each, making this a subjective question. Here are some comparison points.

Rope caulk is easy to work with. You can take your time and not worry about anything curing too soon. Urethane is potentially disastrous, as it bonds very well to almost anything it touches. Permanently. It cures in a few minutes or slightly longer, depending on environment.
Urethane seals better due to the bond it creates. Rope caulk also seals well, but in cases where size isn't quite right you may have gaps.
Urethane fits a wider range of gaps. You can easily fill narrow slits to voids several inches or more wide. Rope caulk comes in various sizes, but there are often compromises during installation.
Rope caulk is cheap, and you can use it now and later. Urethane foam isn't much more expensive, but you have to use the can in a fairly short time since the nozzle will seal itself shut.
Rope caulk can be removed for repositioning, changes, etc. Urethane would need to be cut and scraped away, usually leaving a residue.

Silicone and other topping caulks would need to be tooled to overlay backer in wide gaps. A combination of putty knives and other items can come in handy, along with a finger.


advice re:ground connections inside a metal box

I just did that today.  The box's ground screw hole wasn't on a dome, and it was mounted on a metal surface, so I couldn't use it without bottoming out.  Just grounded to the receptacle, which is hard flush against the box, so done.  Switches don't need to be hard flush; they are allowed to ground via the screw threads even if the switch is not hard flush.


How can a voltage screwdriver light up when I test the ground wire or chassis of my washing machine, but multimeter reads no voltage or current flow?

It is because there is no current on the chassis you are testing. It is static electricity. Cheap neon pen testers will flicker if there is a strong source of static electricity on the object being tested which is why are supposed to use them only on grounded sockets, not electrical machinery.


How can I trace cable through floors and walls?

Pick up a middle of the road tone generator and probe kit from a company you've heard of. No need to buy the most expensive model you can find, it will likely have features you'll never use.

I've used this one Gardner Bender Wire-Tracker Wire Tracer, which can be purchased from Home Depot for ~$40.00.

It's not the best model on the market, but it worked very well for me. It was sensitive enough to accurately trace cables through both walls, ceilings and floors, and was able to attach to a variety of cables.

Make sure the power is off before connecting the tone generator. Some models can work on hot lines, but it's still safer to kill the power.


Fridge works (or worked) but not the freezer

I would check your circulating fan, then thermostat probe. These are both located in the back of your freezer. You will have remove the covering to get to them. Take pics with your phone camera as you go. It will make it easier to put back together. As far as your new board not working, I know its hard to believe but, you can get a new board that is defective. Mine did the same thing and the fan would run, but not all the time. When I replaced it, it was working properly.


Can I run my washing machine drain line into a condensate pump so it drains better?

I think you have a couple of factors to consider in using a condensate pump.

One is the volume of water per unit time relative to what the pump can handle. A condensate pump is going to expect a trickle flow from the air conditioning system.

When used as a washing machine pump, the float will rise as the reservoir fills and activate the pump. Will the condensate pump remove water at a rate to match or exceed the washing machine?

Washing machines work in cycles. If the reservoir is too small to handle a maximum load cycle and the pump rate is too low, flooding may result.

On the other hand, if you can supplement the reservoir in some manner, the pump rate becomes less critical.

I don't think the water "quality" is going to be a problem. The output of a washing machine is grit/sand/dirt/fibers. The heavy stuff is going to collect in the reservoir and the suspended stuff is going to be pumped. I have a filter on our washing machine that catches all the washed-out material that used to enter my septic tank. I'm amazed at the grit/sand quantities, but also at the shed fibers that are captured. The low cost pumps typically use an impeller which is resistant to problems related to suspended material found in a washing machine output.


Best/Most Affordable Material to use for Long Rafter

You may want to go with a TJI (truss joist) that is made by one of these companies (Weyerhaeuser, Georgia Pacific, etc.,). Unless you use a 2 lb foam in the rafter bays, you will need something 14" or taller to get enough insulation in the ceiling to meet code. Of coarse, this depends on the area you live in. Different regions have different R-value requirements.


Can one get instant hot water from home faucets without a heater?

No method is "instant" but there are long-used and accepted methods of recirculating your hot water piping system back to your water-heating appliance, which keeps the line at least warm (or hot) depending on the chosen method. Another alternative is "point of use" water heaters at each user location, this is common in some european countries and is gaining traction in the U.S. as well.
You should know that these methods may not be "wasting precious water", but will use more of some other energy or resource, you don't get something for nothing.
This thermosiphon system I have in use at my home, relatively quick hot water and higher natural gas bill:

This method is similar to piping arrangement of the thermosiphon system, but utilizing a pump. Very quick hot water, higher natural gas and electric bill:

This system uses a proprietary crossover valve to create a recirc system, I have no experience with this and the arrangement seems dubious to me:

Then there are the "point of use" units. The additional cost of the units and the resources required to manufacture them would likely offset any environmental gain by not wasting water, but they get hot quick.


How to handle painting with movement of cabinet door panel movement?

Ultimately durability is largely impacted by level of prep and primer. This is for one main reason.. adhesion.
A great top coat is nothing without a good key on the surface and also good primer.
All that said, paints vary on how they handle movement. In a coloured top coat, a high acryllic content paint will help with movement.
Another option is a polyurethane varnish ontop. The stuff is super durable.


Why is my power flickering across multiple circuits?

Sounds like a classic compromised leg of your main service. This problem could be anywhere from the connections at the utility transformer on the pole, to the connection taps on the side of the house, to the meter pan, to the main breaker.

IMO this is NOT something for a DIY to troubleshoot since you would need to be testing live unfused wires in places that are inaccessible to a homeowner, such as inside the meter pan.

I would start with calling your utility and explaining to them the issue. If they find no problem call an electrician to check the equipment in your house.


I know that you said you cannot get the cleanout plug - but this is your best bet at removing large debris.

Try:

Wrap a small towel over the plug and turn counter clock wise ("Righty tighty, lefty loosy")
Use an adjustable wrench to break the cleanout plug free

If the above attempts do not work or you have already done that route:

Use a drain snake to free any debris causing the clog
You can use a toilet plunger by placing it directly above the drain in the sink, fill the sink until there is enough to create suction; (be careful not to splash too much)
Believe it or not, if a graden hose is accessible and long enough to reach the sink, place the hose in the drain and have someone turn on the water. There will be sufficient pressure to dislodge any debris.

I'm not a fan of using drain products, but if you must, go to your local hardware store and consult someone as this community covers the entire globe, it is difficult to give you an exact recommendation.


Possible, yes.

Likely in a residential foundation, no.

To know for sure, spend money testing - unfortunately the only way to know, as there are no visible clues in this application, evidently.

http://www.concreteconstruction.net/industrial-projects/asbestos-and-old-buildings.aspx


What's the best way to remove a wall plug?

I usually just poke them into the wall (unless they are the screw in kind obviously, or the kind with a large collar).  Put a screw driver on them and give it a sharp whack, then patch the hole.  I find it's easier and faster to patch the slightly larger hole, than it is to try and dig them out and then patch the hole anyway.

For the larger collar ones, try to bend/mutilate the collar enough then poke them through the wall.

Be careful when you do this, you don't want to put the screw driver and/or your hand through the wall as well.

In a brick wall you could drill them out.  Find a bit that is about the same size as the hole in the anchor, then carefully drill it out.


How can I repair peeling finish on a faucet handle?

The peeling finish appears to be a metallic plating over a another metal or over plastic.

You might be able to glue the lifted areas down using a cyanoacrylate type glue. You need to be very careful with these because they will glue your skin to a surface in a second or two. Such a repair would be iffy, and the handle may continue to peel in other areas. If there are small gaps, you could use a marking pen to mask them, but the coating is fairly transparent on metals (on plastics they tend to look more solid).

You could remove the handle, scrape all loose areas, sand with a very fine paper (or emery cloth), wipe with a solvent (such as mineral spirits) and then spray paint with an all surface enamel. There are a few plastics that resist even that type of paint (such as polyethelenes), but would not be likely used on a plumbing fixture.

Or you could try to get a replacement handle from the manufacturer.


Help running a C wire from my furnace--no voltage from the C terminal on the circuit board

The furnace control board is in the blower compartment. Nearly all furnaces have a safety switch which cuts power to the furnace and its controls when the blower compartment is opened. You'll have to bypass that safety switch while measuring AC volts between R and C. (While doing this, take the usual precautions to ensure that long hair, clothing, etc would not be pulled into the blower if it should come on unexpectedly.)
For mains-voltage AC it would be a clear violation of electrical code to run one extra conductor separate from the cable. Not so for low voltage like a thermostat, but still it has the potential to be confusing to others later. If it's possible to run one conductor from the furnace to the thermostat, I suggest to run a new 7-conductor cable instead. The work is the same but the result is much more professional.


Loud knocking noise in house with radiators and old plumbing

Even bleeding the systems won’t normally stop the clicking & creaking as the pipes heat and cool the pipes expand and contract causing the majority of the noise, on steam systems there are DA tanks that remove the air , it sounds like normal expansion noise to me , I would not experiment at bleeding a system until I knew if it was a hot water or steam system. Most residential systems I have seen are hot water but I ran into a few low pressure steam systems in a high end neighborhood that we were installing gas furnaces. I thought only commercial was allowed live steam so I would be careful and probably get ear plugs.


Need some advice on re-wiring kitchen, one empty breaker left

Remodels wipe out grandfathering

It sounds like you are remodeling a kitchen that was wired a very long time ago, and you are expecting that this gives you the privilege of keeping it wired the old way, and then maybe making an odd convenience improvement here and there.  That idea is called "grandfathering" and that's not how it works.

The idea of grandfathering is that you're not required to modify existing wiring simply because Code is revised (which it is every 3 years).  However, that does not apply to new construction obviously... or remodels.

There's no exemption in NEC for "my panel is too small"

You need 2 dedicated circuits for kitchen countertop outlets. Period.  The range vent can also be on that circuit, but not if its part of the microwave. A kitchen clock can also be on that circuit.  So can the refrigerator, but that's a bad idea.

There is actually quite a laundry list of circuits you need in a kitchen, as well as additional circuits that are a good idea, like a dedicated non-GFCI circuit for refrigerator and freezer (each), or a third kitchen countertop circuit to benefit the cook.

Pencil in at least 8 breaker spaces just for the kitchen, and additional spaces for non-kitchen things which need to be pulled off of the kitchen circuits.

"Panel is too small" is a curable problem

Replacing a main panel is a big, intrusive job, because power must be off while you do it.  It may be necessary to do this, if you have certain obsolete, dangerous panels such as FPE or Zinsco.. Other panels like Pushmatic can be addressed with a subpanel, because safe breakers are available for these panels.

In most cases where modern breakers are available for your main panel, I would advise a subpanel.  You should size your subpanel so the original planel plus this new panel total about 48 spaces (not circuits, spaces!)

The subpanel amp rating does not matter, feel free to install a 225A subpanel on a 60A main service, and the subpanel does not need a main breaker.

If your house is spread out in a way that you could make your wires shorter/cheaper by having multiple subpanels, that is a great idea. For instance a subpanel basically for the kitchen can be smart.  Panels need to be in a place where you can always stand in front of them, i.e. they won't ever be blocked in by stuff... e.g. Hallways (where you can't put stuff) are good.

If you are DIY and a subpanel feels beyond your skill level, then I say strongly: skill up! Get books on electrical from the library, read them through and through, and register your account here to an email address and use it a lot.


Is there some kind of adapter for an old ceiling box?

There are a bunch of different styles of universal cross-bars, including ones that are designed to be mounted with a nipple.  I'd just check your local hardware or big box store.  Some examples:


How to mount a power strip without holes to the wall

Is it not possible to use a knife or other sharp edge to remove the feet? Most of the rubber feet I've seen are either attached via grommets--essentially thin pieces of the rubber which extend through a small holes with a slightly larger part at the end to hold it in place. Cheaper companies attach flat ones with adhesive.

If removal is not an option, your best bet is still with Command adhesive for the wall adhesion. However, what you will want to do is attach something to the underside of the strip (using a thin adhesive strip or, ideally, glue+clamping) that will increase the thickness to the same level as the feet.

I'd probably use a light wood like balsa or bass from a hobby store, as they are available in various small sizes and a large range of thicknesses. You may even be able to find a piece that is already the right length and width in their selection! (Be sure to take the power strip in with you to test for thickness length x width.)  If none with the proper thickness will adequately fit, just get a slightly larger one, cut it small enough to fill most of the area, paint it to match the wall or strip (if desired), and attach it with your desired adhesive to the strip. Apply the command strips to the other side, following the supplied instructions, then attach it to the wall.

This will work perfectly, and you likely have something around your house already that you can modify to work (honestly, even a couple layers of carefully glued, trimmed, and painted corrugated cardboard could look professional! You would be surprised!) Honestly though, if it were me, I would probably find a way to remove the feet. ;)

Good luck!


Rapid changes in humidity levels in basement suite?

Welcome to the wonderful world (or mold) of wet basements.

Assuming you've stopped it for 3 hours after running 30 minutes:

So long as water is coming in, the dehumidifier needs to keep running on the humidistat. In half an hour you're pulling the easily available water in the air down to 50% - but there's an entire earth of more water wanting to replace that. Not going so far, there's plenty of less easily available to the dehumidifier water trapped in various surfaces and furnishings - sheetrock, concrete walls, floors, books, upholstered furniture...

That water will make its way back into the air as soon as the air is dryer than the item, but it may take some time to do so. In your case, evidently about 3 hours. assuming the deumidifer has a humidistat and can be set to hold a particular humidity level, set it at 50% and either dump the tank regularly or set it up so the water can go straight to a drain.

Assuming it's running for 3.5 hours continuously - if it feels dry, the hygrometer is, perhaps, bad. If it feels dank, the dehumidifer is having some sort of problem with running properly - sometimes they ice up excessively and stop effectively removing water - they should sense that and allow the ice to melt, but one that is not operating correctly might not do that. You may be able to see ice blocking the cooling fins if you look for it.

You would also expect to see water accumulating in the bucket if it's working, and not accumulating in the bucket (or doing so V-E-R-Y slowly) if it's not.


That is mold. Assuming this is what it looks like after it's been sufficiently dried so more mold won't develop beyond what we're seeing here, that is surface mold isolated within a wall cavity, and you've got nothing to worry about.
Typically, if it is surface mold or the decayed portion of the wall system is small enough to be safe and acceptable, you would leave it alone, as molds become dormant below 20% WMC (your framing should be between 12% and 16% once fully dried and ready to be closed back up), as long as the following criteria are met:

If the sheathing was never saturated (or above 28% WMC) or if the saturation was limited (in a non structural wall);
If the moisture problem has been remedied (dried and not going to get wet again); i
If it will not be disturbed, so as to spread spores into living space; and,
If the decay is surface only (has not transmitted through to the other side of the sheathing is a good indicator of compromised sheathing).

Best practice would be to replace the sheathing in the event any of the above are not met. Cost of doing the repair vs cost of not doing the repair will drive the decision, except in the case of damage to a critical building component in which case the cost of not doing the repair is also a question of safety/liability.


Feasibility of fixing unscrewable broken chair leg with hot glue/ other alternatives

Hot glue is not a particularly strong adhesive for situations which require this sort of bonding. Conventional liquid wood glue is much stronger and will be easier to apply as well.

Ideally, you should have a clean face on the broken part as well as on the chair section to which it will bond. This means remove any loose splinters from the faces. You will also get much better results if you have a method to clamp or otherwise force one face into the other. Even simple masking tape is better than nothing, but stronger tape will give better results. A genuine wood clamp is ideal, but costs money.

If you can position the chair in such a way as to coat the surface of the break with wood glue, then place the leg on that surface and load it with weight, you'll do as well as a clamp, if you get sufficient weight concentrated on the joint.

Because chair legs are subjected to lateral forces, even repairing the joint with glue will not hold over time, unless you are extremely careful with movement of the chair while sitting.

You can see the screw holes in the caption image. The screws provide the mechanical strength and the glue reduces/removes the movement that might otherwise loosen the screws.

If you are able to install screws through the joint you've glued and into the chair, you'll improve your chance of having a strong bond that will last.

Without photos of your break, this is guesswork. If you are able to take a photo, simply focus only on the damaged area or crop out any background you wish to not be displayed.


What's the normal duty cycle of a refrigerator compressor?

This may be normal.  According to the manual.


Thermostats are pretty universal, and they are really just a set of programmable contact closures at their heart.  Call for A/C?  Connect the red and yellow and green wires.  Call for only the fan?  Connect red and green, etc.  Basic electronics.

The only thing that is an issue now is some smart thermostats need to be powered.  This requires a "common" wire or C-Wire that carries a constant 24v.  If you get a basic non-wifi thermostat, you don't really need to worry about that, so you should be good.

At that point the other major option is if she has a heat pump or not.  If it's not a heat pump, it's much simpler.  If there is, just make sure the thermostat supports all the options she has.

Label the wires or take a picture before removing anything and it should be a piece of cake.


Very strange: tub & shower blocked, but toilet and sink fine, and snake won't fix it

I read elsewhere that you can try putting a garden hose down the vent and the water might clear it.  But if it's a sub vent, then the water will just run right past it.


If tightening the nut 1/8-1/4 turns at a time doesn't stop the leak than the nut should be removed. The drain also should be removed and the flange piece (that sits in the sink) needs to be cleaned.
Apply fresh plumber's putty to the underside of the flange. Place it back in the basin and press down until putty oozes out.
Place the rubber washer and than the nut back on to the threaded drain piece. Snug it up by hand and than tighten with a wrench until the pipe can't be turned by hand.
Clean the putty from the flange and fill the basin with water. Open the drain and look for leaks. Tighten in small increments if leaks are noted and continue running water until no leaks are found.


Coleman furnace flame quits after 20 minutes

It sounds like a component is failing. Could be the circuit board or the gas valve. When you say it tries to light does it glow and fail to ignite? Does it ignite briefly and then go out?  Most likely a component is getting hot and loosing connection. Could be the vent proving switch if there is no glow. The combustion air is being taken from the roof since it is a sealed combustion furnace. The return air is coming from inside the house.
The vent motor should come on. Several seconds later the igniter should glow red. After a few seconds the gas valve should open. 45 seconds or so later the blower should come on. By using a volt meter at each component check if there is 24 volts present at each component at the proper time. If there is voltage at the gas valve for instance and the valve does not open it is the gas valve.
I once worked on a furnace for 2 years before it would fail for me. The owner said it would not operate when cold but by the time I got there it was working fine. Finally it wasn’t working when I got there. I was getting voltage to the gas valve but no gas. There was a bad solder joint inside the valve that would make enough contact once it warmed up a bit.


How do you repair weep hole flashing in a brick veneer?

As far as I know there is no "easy" method that works. You have to strip the bricks down to that level and replace the flashing. Of course, this makes it an excellent time to consider how much you are or are not in love with brick veneer, since that's removing most of it. If you use a more durable flashing (lead is nice) you might get more than 60 years out of it; of course, if you can get 60 years out of anything it's probably more than you personally need.

You might find considerable cost-benefit in a rigid-foam / stucco replacement for the brick veneer - your walls are likley poorly insulated circa 1950s, and that would add a great deal of insulation to them.


Can I partially suspend an angled climbing wall from my garage trusses?

You need to define the type of garage ceiling you're looking to use. Not all trusses can be used for downward forces (say it keeps the walls from spreading) and if you're accidentally mis-describing them you could be getting some bad advice.

That said, assuming your climbing wall touches the ground the load will be carried there. Lateral forces on the side of the wall from 'pulling out' are supported by the cross bracing in ceiling. I'll see if I can find the article on design I read on the 'net about 3 years ago.

Edit: OK, going to give my non-civil-engineering view on this.
https://www.menards.com/main/buying-guides/building-materials-buying-guides/roof-truss-buying-guide/c-19431.htm

The example image shows all of the load being pulled downwards (compression) to the floor, and the ones nearest the wall providing tension to pull the rest towards the wall. You should have a large piece of anchored plywood or 2x8 back there to bolt into- lag bolting into your 2x4 sticks in the garage. Then you can attach multiple points to the 2x8 and the 2x8 can resist twisting the rear wall.

The bottom chord of your attic is in tension- it's to hold the walls from spreading. The upper chords are in compression and are carrying the load to the double sill plate around the base. The remainder of the web is stiffeners and compression/tension. Diagonal'ed boards in the attic prevent your roof from twisting around.

Just really limit how much 'weight' the ceiling is holding. If you do the example you've got, really emphasizing connecting it to the wall, it should be fine. Assuming of course the wall is connected to the floor somehow...


Why does a USA/Canada surge-protected extension lead (110V) trip my circuit breakers in the UK (220V)?

The surge suppression in most consumer grade power strips includes a metal oxide varistor (MOV) placed across the line at the supply side of the power strip:

These devices suppress voltage spikes by conducting energy across the line when the incoming voltage exceeds a preset threshold determined by the manufacturer.  Wikipedia has a good description of varistors here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor

MOVs in a surge suppressor designed for 120v are selected to conduct at roughly 200v.  This ensures the MOVs do not interfere with normal operating conditions, which include peak voltages up to 55% greater than the nominal line voltage.  If you connect one of these across 220VRMS where the nominal peak voltage is 310v, far into the conduction region of the device, then the MOV conducts during normal operating conditions shorting out your extension lead.


Installation of a recess can over the shower does it need to be GFCI protected?

When you state recess can , the fixture would need to be listed for a wet location in a shower where it may get some spray. If less than 8' above the restricted zone, 410.10.b
Per nec 210.8.a.1 all the receptacles in a bathroom are required to be GFCI protected but not the lighting.


Can you use the actual sink to route an undermount sink hole in a butcher block counter?

Putting a bearing against a sink surface seems to be looking for trouble. The slightest resistance in the bearing could tear up the finish of the sink, whether it is porcelain, fireclay, steel or resin.

I think it's worth the trouble to make a plywood template, unless you are in the sink business and have spare units to burn.


Ryobi snowblower stalls seconds after starting

Ok so I was unable to troubleshoot this on my own, and I checked the batteries out a few times, they seemed perfectly fine.  So took it into the shop, turns out the problem was a burned out motherboard.  Fixed under warranty, so that's good.

Just wanted to post the update here for anyone else encountering similar symptom.

Batteries are fine, no issues with them.

Cheers!


You may be able to just snug up the packing nut half a turn and be done with it. Otherwise take the old packing washer to your local hardware store and find a replacement.


If there is a set screw that holds it to the stem it is very likely (but not 100% certain) that it pulls directly off. You have soaked it with some penetrating lube, now try gently tapping it from various angles to loosen it prior to re-attempting to pull it off.

If this does not work, purchase (or fabricate) a "faucet handle puller". They exist because your problem is fairly common:


How to rewire a microwave exhaust fan to work as a stand alone exhaust fan?

You need to install a switch (toggle, rocker, paddle, etc.). Connect the Black wire from the plug cord to a terminal on the switch. This will be the Hot wire that carries the power to motor. On the other switch terminal you can either wire the Blue (for High speed) or Yellow (for Low speed) that come from the motor of the fan.
You should probably keep the Thermal Fuse as it may be protecting the motor and an integral part of the system. The Thermal Fuse is a safety device that has a bi-metal disc inside that connects the Blue and Yellow wires to complete the circuit. If it senses a higher heat than what it is calibrated for the disc warps and opens the circuit stopping the flow of power until it cools and snaps back and closes the circuit.
Always enclose a switch with an UL approved enclosure with a cover plate and wire clamps.
You could probably use a Double Switch [![enter image description here][1]][1]
[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnIYd.png  so that the Dual Speeds will be available.


How can I repair this garage door trim and weather stripping?

Is the weather seal screwed in?

I would recommend removing the weather seal and replacing it with new.

Install the top piece first. Do not cut it long so you have to force it into place; cut it to fit tight at the ends but you should not have to force it into place. use ring shanked colored nails and nail about every 6-9". Do not over tighten the nails, just bring them flush to the weather seal. Cut the sides to length, again, not so tight that you have to force it. Square cut all ends, do not attempt to miter this product. the rubber flap should form a U to the door, not a 90 degree. Clean it all up then use a good caulk along the edge of the weather seal and the siding.

Done like this you will get most of that bowing and gapping out of what you have now.

Done right, this will be a huge improvement. Take your time and get the weather seal cut to the right length and nail carefully and often.


Stain / residue on hardwood after years of rug covering

You can try cleaning the grime off (thats some of the carpet pad impregnated with dirt), but ultimately you should refinish the wood floor.
This involves a commercial sanding machine and other equipment not readily available.
To clean try and scrape as much of the crud off as possible using a putty knife or a paint scraper. try not to gouge the wood or remove the stain (this is the difficult part). Next you should use some type of floor cleaner. I think a good cleaning product is TSP. It's made for heavy cleaning. Fill a bucket with hot water and mix in the appropriate amount of TSP. Wring the mop out so the floor isn't saturated with water and apply. Scrubbing with a bristle brush will help. Repeat as needed.


Random tripping at house DB not at complex DB

You probably need to submit more detail to get a complete answer to your problem, but I will try and answer from the information you have given up to this point.

First I can't think of a situation or reason how an problem upstream would trip a downstream breaker. So the trip would occur at the main distribution area or just fault out or burn up at the original damage.

Second the you need to have an ammeter and check the amount of current flow at the breaker tripping in house DB.

Now here are some questions you need to answer to get further information.
Which breaker is tripping in house DB?
Is it the main or one of the branch circuits?
Did you have breakers tripping before the repair?
How old is your system?
Has anyone tested the voltage at each phase and the neutral to ground (disconnected)?

Hope this helps


"Why is this happening?"

The drywall mud was applied too thick

"what should I do about it?"

Either apply additional thin coats (sanding between each), or scrape it down and start over, this time using several thinner applications and sanding between each


Just put another row(s) of boards in. You can scribe & rip the boards to follow the ground, keeping them off the ground by 1/4". Or, you can dig out the ground for full height boards, take the dirt from the left & put it on the right for a foot on both sides of the fence.

Assuming the boards can't be bent enough to slip them in the channels. Cut the boards in half or wherever you find most appealing & least obvious. Half-lapping the cut zone would be best, but you can also just screw the boards back together with a board scrap.

Really Nice job by the way. I'd prefer to keep that color contrast as long as possible. I'm on a One Time Wood Protector kick, if both sides or just your side gets a few hours of Sun a day it's the only way to go. If the fence is wet in the picture One Time's Natural will keep that. Not a promo, I just find that no-one knows about the stuff & they just keep ruining their lives with poly's.


Gap where two different roof lines meet - best way to close up?

If your only concerned about critters, depending on the actual size of the gap (mouse sized to raccoon sized) a "combination of chicken wire-like mesh and rolled fiberglass insulation pressed gently into gap should work. I wouldn't spray foam alone, critters of all kinds could still chew and peck through it.

This is a sure sign that the roof line/rooms are not original to the house and proper integration of it was not incorporated into existing structure properly. I would look closely for other issues. The attic ventilation is important, so the gap is acceptable for that, however there should already be adequate ventilation. The concern remains to be wildlife intrusion, structural integrity and severe weather. Water could be forced up into the gap more readily then soffit ventilation due to the sloping roof line beneath it. And shingles need to rest upon a structural surface underneath them. Here in Florida during hurricane season winds would rip those shingles off and several more with it increasing the amount of rain that could soak the space and anything below.


Can I put a clothesline between two rafters?

That sounds safe to me. clothes-line rope is unlikely to be strong enough to damage the rafters.


If an outdoor outlet is mounted flush and the cabling direct through the wall, can I use indoor cabling?

Although it's done that way all the time, it's my opinion that if the box is in a wet location, the cable inside the box must be rated for wet locations.  Sometimes an easy way to comply is set a box just inside the building, and transition from NM to UF in the indoor box, send the UF out to the outdoor box.


Many ceiling textures are created by putting some mud on the ceiling with a perpendicular motion, then swiping sideways with a trowel ("knock down"). I see some parts of your texture that look like this might be what happened.

Other parts of the texture have wide valleys with sharp narrow ridges. Those look to me like they were done very wet or runny. Maybe the mud was applied with a "normal" consistency and then knocked down using a dripping wet brush?

Usually these things are done using some combination of a trowel, an aluminum hawk, and/or a brush of some kind -- in combination with varying the consistency/thickness of the compound.

A full sheet of drywall doesn't cost a lot, especially if you can negotiate for a discount on a damaged piece. It might be worth getting a piece just to experiment on. Throw some mud on and play with it. Wait and see how it looks when dry, or if you're sure it's wrong, scrape the mud off while it's still wet and try again.


Electrical outlet Tests good but not good

The three-light testers typically only draw a tiny current and usually use neon indicators that work at less than full voltage. They are good for showing a few common miswiring problems (e.g. where live and neutral have been swapped or where ground is not connected) but they are not good for showing bad connections which have a high resistance or which separate when hot.

I would turn off the breaker, verify power is off at the outlet and open it up and check the connections. The next step would be to swap the outlet with a new one or with another nearby working outlet.


Why is my clear pex tubing turning red/brown?

Areas that have high iron in the water will cause iron scale to build up on the inside of the pipe. Other possible causes if on city water is metal water pipe in the supply. Over time it may get darker and is not unusual. In the past it was not visible because the pipe was not transparent like PEX.


The usual way is to wet the surface using a sprayer, wait a few minutes for the material to soften, the scrape off using a scraper.
You may need to do some touch-up of the drywall after removing the "popcorn" which you can do with spackle for small imperfections or drywall compound for larger ones.
Be sure to test on a small area to be sure it's going to work properly before you wet a large area.
Also, be aware that some of these used asbestos.  If you are in doubt, have it tested!


How often should I change the oil in my lawn mower

It (probably) won't suddenly stop and refuse to start again after 5 hours of use, but it's a good idea to follow the recommended cycle: the parts in new engines often haven't been milled perfectly smooth, so as your new engine turns those rough bits get knocked off or cut tracks for themselves, leaving little pieces of metal in the oil.  Unless you get rid of them by changing the oil, they can cause excessive wear and tear on the engine.

Depending on your lawnmower, you'll either be able to drain oil out of the bottom, or tip the mower over and drain it out the top from the same hole you pour the fresh oil into (the worst part of this is lifting and tilting the mower over the catcher pan, but it's a lot easier if you have someone to help).


Is there a limit to the number of holes bored in a joist?

If there is nothing in the code of practice which specifies a limit to the number of holes, then there is no limit to the number of holes.

From an engineering standpoint, this is because a beam with holes in it can act like a truss (see e.g. the bailey truss). The minimum hole sizes and minimum spacing is to allow enough timber to act as the vertical/inclined "truss elements". Therefore if it is ok to have two large, closely spaced holes at any arbitrary position along the beam, then it is ok to have holes of that diameter and spacing the whole way along the beam.


You need to remove the pump from it's location and take it to a work area. remove the inlet screen and clear out the debris on the impeller. Also check the impeller for any bent or broken vanes. If there are any missing vanes you will need to replace it or the whole pump. Test run the pump for a couple seconds to see if the vibration has been eliminated. If it has, Reinstall in the sump and put back into operation.


How do I choose a router for fitting doors?

You will probably need a trim router(it will be easier to handle compared to a full sized one), as well as a hinge mortising jig. That's really all to it


How is my house's foundation constructed?

Wild guess (without photos):

6" concrete block structure (common for residential foundations--4" is mostly used for a shorty garage wall base and cases where actual brick ledges are present)
~1" thin brick veneer outside

You may also have a 6" foundation that transitions to a 4" block behind a full brick veneer.

You should be able to determine brick thickness at corners or penetrations. That'll tell us a lot.


Why isn't my dishwasher cleaning as well as it used to?

Some detergents will build up over time, gumming up the works. Try changing to a different kind.

Try vinegar. Pour some in to the dishwasher and run a "rinse and hold" cycle. It can clean out scaling from hard water, and detergent goops.

Check that the basin is filling up properly. I read that it's supposed to be just below the heating coil.

Check the water temperature. Let the machine run to fill the basin, then measure. If your hot water pipes are not insulated, insulate them. You can run the kitchen faucet for a minute to bring hot water closer, but it doesn't help much. Consider turning up the water temperature at the water heater. I did this and my dishes came out much cleaner.


One option is "mirror clips" or "concealed mirror clips". These can be used to mount flat items to a surface without requiring holes etc in the piece to be fastened in place.


wiring a oven with 4 wires to home service with 3 wires

If I am reading this right, by "home service" you mean your range receptacle has three prongs, and three wires with no ground wire supplying the receptacle.

If that's the case, you'll want to connect the bonding jumper from neutral to frame ground in the range:

If that isn't the case - if you have a ground wire / ground prong on the receptacle - you do NOT want that jumper strap connected!

That picture is from this article:

http://www.adamselectric.coop/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Bonding-Frames-of-Major-Appliances.pdf


What are the grounding requirements for a panel fed from another panel?

The new 30A panel needs a 4-wire feeder from the 60A panel. This is two hots, a neutral and an equipment ground.

The remote 30A panel also needs a grounding electrode (or two) since it is in a detached structure. This grounding electrode has NOTHING to do with the equipment ground run with the feeders. The two serve very different purposes.

In the existing 60A panel you will terminate the new ground to the ground bar and the new neutral to the isolated neutral bar.


Are there ways to determine if a wall is load bearing?

Without looking at blueprints, all you can do is make an educated guess. Possible methods include:

If it's an exterior wall it's almost always load bearing.
If the joists are not continuous over the wall (they are cut short and meet on top of the wall) it is definitely load bearing.
If there is a load bearing wall or beam directly above or below this wall, it is likely load bearing.
Check the direction of the joists (as you mention). If a joist is running perpendicular to the wall, or happens to fall directly above/below the wall, it can be load bearing.
If there's a single top plate, the wall most likely isn't load bearing, unless the wall uses deeper studs than 2x4 (such as 2x6).
Expose the wall over a doorway or pass-through. If it's a solid 2x6 or greater turned vertically going from the jack stud on one side to the other, there's a good chance the wall is load bearing.
If there are only cripple studs on a flat 2x4 to give you something to attach the drywall, it likely isn't load bearing.
Look for signs that the wall was added after the house was built, newer wood materials, drywall or finished flooring that extend over/under the wall, etc. If the wall was added, then it isn't load bearing.
Calculate the span from the known load bearing walls on either side of the wall you are removing, look at the type, size, and spacing of joists above the wall, and calculate if the joists can support the load above the wall without the wall being in place. If the joists can't support the load without the wall, then by definition, it's load bearing.
When removing the wall, cut the studs with a sawzall. If the blade begins to bind in the middle of the stud, then there's load coming down from the ceiling through that wall and there's a good chance it was load bearing. Stop what you were doing and sister a stud to the one you were cutting.
If, after you remove the wall, your home collapses, it was load bearing.


It is not possible to install this product without a neutral wire.

First of all, the word "way" in switch terminology means something specific, and in your question I believe you refer to wires coming into the wall box.

What you require is a neutral wire, a live wire (line), and the continuation of that live wire up to the light(s) (load), which is what we're switching. To purely switch the lights on and off, you would only need the live and load wires, but because the Sonoff is an electrical device, it needs the neutral wire to draw power for its internals.

Despite the confusion over wiring standards and colour codes, this Reddit post culminates in the conclusion that it doesn't work in the absence of a neutral wire: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/7l19a3/will_a_sonoff_touch_duel_gang_switch_work_with_my/


How to plumb a washing machine 30 ft from the waste stack?

1/4" per foot of slope is generally considered the minimum slope, so as long as you have a bit over 7" to work with vertically, you should be able to slope the drain over 30' just fine. You'd set up your discharge p-trap, and then vent immediately after that...tying that back to the main vent stack. So you'll end up with two 30' feet runs of pipe (drain + vent).

Obviously, check with local plumbing codes for specifics.

This all assumes you have water hookups in that location. If not, then you'll have to get those over there as well.


Each fireplace manufacturer has specific clearances and installation instructions. If you don’t know the brand, I’d get an installation manual like this one, and study it.

http://www.kozyheat.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Z42-Z42CD-Manual-1-09.pdf

Also, I’d be concerned about the styrofoam exposed to the fireplace box. The fireplace gives off a lot of heat and it could affect the styrofoam.

Also, if you use tile or rock to cover the face of the fireplace, use “fire resistant” type mortar, grout, etc. Otherwise, when the mortar/grout gets hot, it could all sag.


How to pull splintered sheathing into an electrical box?

Despite your difficulties, the cable's sheath must come all the way into the box past the point of split, and be secured by the box's cable clamps.
You cannot modify the box to make things easier.
If  you look closely at the photo, you can see where all 3 cables  have crimp marks from where the previous clamps gripped them in the correct position.  You need to do the same.
If you can't make it work any other way, I suggest you obtain a metal box of similar depth, which has a number of 3/4" circular "knockouts" on it, three on the side you need.  Then, obtain these cable clamps.

src

Start by removing the large diameter thin "nut" on the backside of them (barely visible) - save that, you'll need it later.
Bunch the wires together for one cable, and push them through the hole.  The side you are seeing in the photo goes first, i.e. on the wall side.  Get it so at least 1/4" of intact sheath is past the edge of it (fully on good sheath and then some), and tighten down those screws.
On your steel box, bust out three knockouts on the correct side.
Thread all the cable's wires together and through the hole.  Also put the nut, from earlier, over the cable's wires.   Pull the cable into the steel box until the fitting's threads come through the hole.  Spin the nut down onto the threads.
*Wasn't that easier? You got to put the clamp on the cable separate from putting the cable into the box.   And putting the cable in the box, you got to work entirely on the accessible side.
Now, those nuts need to be torqued down, so get a flat screwdriver and put the blade on the "bump" on the left side and bap the back of the screw driver with some force, e.g. with your fist or something .  That way you tighten the nut clockwise.  That's how you do these.
The other boxes aren't working for you because they assume you  have access to both the inside and outside of the box after it's mounted.  You don't, actually.