Replaced breaker, and still no power to outlets, but at circuit test 110

It sounds like you have several problems but probably not a short in the wiring, as a short would trip the breaker when it was turned on.

When the wiring was updated 15 years ago it was not done to Code. Code at that time required the bathroom to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit (possibly 2 bathrooms on 1 circuit) but nothing else on that branch circuit, the laundry should have also have its own 20amp circuit. This is the start of some of your problems.

The second part is the circuit is overloaded with lights and everything else on the circuit the breaker is doing its job of tripping when overloaded (not a short). The remaining outlets and or lights that are not working are probably because of an overload condition. This happens all the time on outlets and switches that are daisy chained using backstabs, it can also happen at a wire nut or a broken wire at a wire nut or screw.

The failure can almost always be found at the last working device or first non working device on that circuit. I would want to get 2 dedicated circuits installed for the bath and laundry after identifying the last working outlet or switch or first non working one and fixing that.


Multiwire branch circuit means of disconnect

The "means of disconnect" requirement for multi-wire branch circuits (NEC 210.4b) simply requires that there be a means of disconnect, and it disconnect all legs at once.  Usually, that is simply the 2-pole (240v) circuit breaker in the panel, and that is fine; that completes the requirement.

Unrelated to the MWBC is a separate requirement that power entering an outbuilding.  It must have a disconnecting means of some kind (NEC 225.31) near where the power enters, inside or out (225.32). That's where you use a disconnect switch like the above.  There is no need to disconnect the neutral.

I would point out that if you're doing a sub-panel, simply use a panel that has a "main" breaker and that's your shut-off switch. It's legit to have a 30A run to a sub-panel and have a 200A main breaker in the sub-panel.  The big breaker just serves as an obvious shutoff switch (and GFCI if it does that).


Does this mean the valve is bad and needs replaced?

YES- the symptoms you describe indicate a stripped or broken stem or gate:

  If so, will the water continue flowing after I cut away the pvc to remove the valve and attach a new one?

YES- in fact, you cannot repair or replace the valve unless you shut off the flow upstream. If you try, A LOT of water will flow.


Do I need to add support to hold second floor joists while working?

Do you need too?
Probably, but that may depend on exactly how much is above the header/load bearing wall you're taking out.
Should you?
Yes. Build a temporary wall to support the joists, ceiling, upper floors, whatever is above this. The cost in time and supplies is minuscule in comparison to any damage that may happen to the structure while you've got that load unsupported. Additionally, your insurance company could use the lack of temporary bracing as an excuse to not pay a claim, making it even more expensive.
While you're at it, ensure that your load is carried all the way down to the ground. You don't indicate if you've got a slab, basement, or crawl space, but if you're not on a slab, you'll want to build a temporary wall in the basement/crawl space directly below the one you're building above. This will support the joists right where the load is instead of bowing them down with the weight from above. Again, consider the actual costs vs the potential costs to repair damage.


Showers without venting, a clothes dryer that is not connected to a vent or cooking can all cause the windows to sweat. When my wife is canning even our double pane windows start sweating. A dehumidifier can really help reduce the moisture in the home and Eliminate the window condensation or sweating.


Is toenailing necessary for a joist-to-ledger attachment?

You should always nail your joists to the joist hangers, using the type and quantity of nails recommended by the hanger manufacturer for the type of hangers you're using.  Double-shear hangers, the most common type, will have special nail holes designed to direct the joist nails at an angle through the joist and into the ledger or header.  Typically you'll use 16d or 10d standard-length nails for the joists, and short 1-1/2" 10d nail for fastening the hanger to the ledger or header.  Here's an image from Simpson's website of a properly installed double-shear joist hanger:


That is not load bearing construction and can be removed. Does that unit have an attic? The beam is at an angle so it's not supporting the floor above. If there is an attic, it's always nice to get up there and check out the construction before knocking out walls.


Do NOT connect this water heater to a CFCI or AFIC Circuit. Why?

It's the ignition system
Your tankless water heater, like many gas-fired appliances, uses an electronic Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) system to light the burner instead of a standing pilot light.  This saves gas, but requires the electronics to generate a high voltage in order to get sufficient spark energy to ignite the gas reliably.  In order to keep the implementation from becoming too bulky or complicated, the high voltage is generated relative to the chassis of the appliance using an HV supply that is not isolated from mains earth, so that the spark igniter's counter electrode can be a grounded burner part instead of having to be insulated for the full ignition voltage.  This, in turn, trips up GFCIs and many AFCIs, since it effectively acts as an intermittent leakage path to ground.


What are the standard dimensions for the square grips on PVC screw caps?

Looking at a few random supply websites for "clean out plug wrenches" there doesn't appear to be a fixed size.  the wrenches are sold in 5-6 different sizes, and there are external and internal sizes since the plugs can be installed upside down.

Here is a site that sells the wrenches: Heavy Duty Supplies


Can I drive a ground rod near a gas meter?

The electrical ground to the water pipe is required and not a hack.  It is supposed to be connected as close to the supply side as practical, preferably upstream of any cutoff valves.

There should also be an electrical ground connection to your gas line if any of the gas lines inside the house are conductive, like black pipe.

When I set out to install the ground rods for my house a few years ago, I knew they would be within 18 inches of the gas feed from the street—as they had just installed the gas line.  I asked the gas company, electrical inspector, and electric utility if that was okay.  They all said that was just fine with them provided it didn't nick the gas line.


How to fix leaking bathroom sink drain where PVC meets ABS connection?

Try @JACK solution of cutting off bad threads. You might also try a different style slip-joint washer (they come in plastic or rubber). Tighten the fitting, hand tight is not enough. If that doesn't work, the fitting is toast. I would cut it off and glue a new one on, then use the proper slip-joint assembly with no glue, goop, caulk, goo, or any other such nonsense that is unlikely to work.

You have a couple problems though.

If you cut it off (even if you cut carefully, which you should) there will be very little pipe remaining outside of the wall. That's OK though, glue the new (1 1/2" male adapter) to whatever is left and it will be fine. Use abs glue if you get an ABS fitting, use universal or multi purpose glue if your new fitting happens to be PVC.
The PVC trap arm may end up being too short after you shorten the wall pipe (it depends how much was left inserted into the wall pipe). If so, you'll need a new P-Trap.


how to properly remove these cable connectors

In some (not all, depends on the crimp style) cases you can use pliers (or locking pliers such as vise-grip) to squeeze an "oval" or "flattened" crimp on the long axis, and that will open the hole enough that you can slip the wires out. If not, yes, you have to cut them off, as per the comment that @Steve should make into an answer.

If that does work, you still should plan on new connectors for whatever new wiring work you are doing, as "recrimping" used connectors is not very reliable.


Rimless toilets, and "not suitable for installation with flush valves"

So called V&B. The guy "simplified" the description, and stated that it's kind of been lost in translation; a lot of links on the English site even go to the German one. What not suitable for installation with flush valves means is that a cistern must be used that has a push button flush. He mentioned requiring high pressure, but that other flushing mechanisms using levers, direct mains, etc. will not work.

I mentioned our cistern does 3 / 6L for dual flush, and he mentioned that the installer can dial down the full flush to 4.5L, as that's all the Direct Flush systems need. A 6L shouldn't cause an issue as the V&B rimless flushes have a flat "rim" (well, they call it a ledge) that prevents splashing, and since water is released along the sides of the rim, extra water would merely be waste. Still recommended dialing it down to prevent water wastage.


Regulating voltage at end of 200 foot 120 V AC extension cable

To directly answer your question: what you want is a "voltage regulating transformer". Alternately, I have also seen the wording "voltage regulator converter transformer" - basically add "transformer" to the search terms you're already looking for.

The issue is, in order to counter the voltage drop, you need to start at a higher voltage, so you need a transformer before the regulator. Likely you will need a 240/120 V step down transformer (most common). In theory there could be a  110V/120V+ step up transformer that will do a slight step up before the regulator so the regulator can regulate it down - but I can't find a specific commercial device that does that. Hopefully there's a 240V plug available to you, as well.

That being said, you should take the comments that have been made into consideration. It's likely much cheaper to just get a thicker extension cord (especially consider you'll probably at least need a new 220 V cord for the transformer anyway). The bigger the conductor cross-section, the less voltage drop per foot you'll experience. You can do the calculations to figure out what size you need, I suspect 10 AWG as was suggested will probably be sufficient for 200 ft.


Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit inside wall?

Liquid Flex May be Okay

NEC 2017 356.1 Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit

-- Basically says you're good but I cannot tell the size of the flex.
   It looks to be 1in. diameter, which is fine if that is the case.

-- You may need to secure every 3ft or less to be in accordance w/
   356.30 for securing runs longer than 6ft if that were to happen.

However, you have other issues to attend to...

Disconnect Means Missing

NEC 2017 Part II 225 Buildings or Other Structures Supplied by a
Feeder(s) or Branch Circuit(s) require a Means to disconnect all
ungrounded conductors per 225.31

-- Basically anytime you have a separate structure fed by a branch
   circuit or feeder, you need a disconnect means AT THE STRUCTURE
   to disconnect all ungrounded conductors (and no more than 6).
   This is often done by installing a main-breaker type panel as
   opposed to a main-lug which you have used as shown in your
   pictures.

   The NEC does not define structure and as such a piece of wood
   driven into the ground with a sub-panel on it could qualify as
   structure to the authorities having jurisdiction.

Back-feeding breaker as a "Disconnecting Means"

Per NEC 2017 408.36 (D) Back-fed breakers used as a Disconnecting Means
MUST be bolted or secured in place as to not be pulled out.

-- Basically this means you cannot just stick in a 60A breaker
   in you current panel and use it as a disconnecting means because
   it is not bolted in place.  You could use a hold-down kit as
   mentioned in your comment, but I think you'd do better with a
   bigger main-breaker panel.

You still need a Disconnecting Means in the outhouse in addition to the rule of 6

Concerning your comment "...Apply 225.33 (A)"

-- To be clear: Every structure requires at least (1) disconnecting
   means but no more than 6 to disconnect all ungrounded conductors.

   225.31 has (4) exceptions to the location of the disconnecting
   means, but none are related to the rule of 6.

Bushings

NEC 2017 352.46 Bushings for PVC based Connectors &
NEC 2017 300.4(G) Insulated Fittings

-- If the feeder conductors are 6 AWG or larger you will need a
   bushing for the PVC connector entering the bottom of the panel
   box.


If the barn has its own main service

If the power company is supplying an electric meter that powers only this structure, then you're sympatico.  This panel is a main service and this is the normal way to wire that.

However since this is the home improvement forum, I assume a home is involved.

If the barn is fed off a main panel in another building

Like the windmill said to the small child: "I'm not a huge fan."

You're in a no-win situation with your grounding.

The principles

Grounding serves at least two purposes: To dissipate ESD and lightning strikes back to the earth, and to return hot-ground fault currents back to source with enough current to trip the breaker (50-100 amps).  If the latter doesn't happen, the fault will try to "light up" the grounding system and shock people (0.1 amps kills).

A grounding rod was never even imagined to return fault currents.  It just can't.  Dirt is an unreliable conductor, which is why they don't use it for wire. Dirt can flow 0.1 amps, but 50 amps is not gonna happen.  It's good for grounding ESD and lightning, and for pegging neutral to earth potential to make a non-isolated system.

Second, if the neutral wire breaks, you have a classic "open neutral" problem: the 120V loads are not equal, and they pull neutral toward one pole or the other... the effect of this is to make neutral hot.

Here are your choices, Sophie

One choice is to tie neutral to ground. This will assure that a hot-ground fault trips your local breaker.  However, an "open neutral" electrifies all your grounds. Every bit of conduit, all the switch plate cover screws, all equipment chassis, even the subpanel door!  The grounding rod will valiantly try to return this current via the dirt, but it can't win.

The other choice is to wire it as an isolated system and intentionally isolate ground from neutral.  Except it's not an isolated system, is it?  Neutral is pegged to ground back at the main house, and by the power company on the pole.  Yes, now an open neutral will not shock you.  But hot-ground fault will! It will pull the grounding system back up toward 120V without flowing enough current for a breaker trip... so you're getting shocked again!  You can't win.

The right way

It's perfectly safe and legal to retrofit a ground.  Hit the hardware store and get some copper (can't be aluminum) and run it back to the house and tie it to the main panel there.  It doesn't need to follow the same path, just needs to use a legal wiring method.

I note that #2 ground wire costs nearly a buck a foot and needs to be buried 12".  So does Rigid conduit, which can be buried only 6" deep.  I also note that the metal shell of rigid conduit is itself a legal grounding path.


How do I change a washer in an outdoor spigot where you can't remove the valve?

The part just below the packing nut will unscrew by using a wrench or a small pipe wrench.


The printing on the wires indicates THHN style wire, and suggests pretty strongly that this is using the EMT conduit wiring method.  As such, the EMT is the ground, and we have several ways to tap it.

First, if the geometry lines up, you can install a junction box at that point.  You use a standard EMT connector (e.g. this) to enter the junction box.  On the other side you enter with the standard "BX into junction box" connector.    For the ground wire, you land that on the ground screw on the junction box.  The box itself carries ground via the EMT connector to the EMT.

Another way is to put a ground clamp around the EMT.  That will remove the necessity of a junction box.  I would run this ground wire outside the BX, because I don't see a way to exit the BX without a junction box.

Now I agree with ThreePhaseEel that it's a mistake to go "straight-in" to the EMT. You should probably make a 90 degree turn into the BX.  A junction box can cover that, but another option is a 90 degree EMT elbow. They come either with side access or top-bevel access. Use ones with female threads on both sides, so you can screw in both of the above adapter types.

I am not familiar enough with the question of whether you can use the BX flexible metal conduit as the grounding path, so I will leave that question to others.


You can wire an single additional Romex from the 2nd electrical box off to a 4th for outlets. Just make sure that you use the proper gauge wire (should be 12 AWG for 20A circuit).

If the current 2nd outlet is wired in a manner where the incoming wires are attached to the one set of screws and the outgoing run is connected to the other set of screws on the outlet then you will have to do a little juggling around to accomodate the added outgoing run. I would suggest to remove all current connections off that outlet and use good quality wire nuts of the correct size to join all the live wires (blacks), three from the Romex cables plus a 4th pigtail together. Do the same for all the neutrals (whites). The pigtails would connect to the 2nd outlet to connect it to the circuit. Lastly all the safety grounds (bare or greens) need to be wired together, connected to the box and to the green screw of the outlet.


Converting 8/3 220VAC oven recptacle to 120V recptacle

Retrofitting ground to a range circuit

As of 2014, Code greatly broadened the rules for retrofitting ground wires.  If it was simply a matter of provisioning a ground wire to that range circuit, there would be no problem at all.

A 40A circuit requires a #10 ground wire, green or bare. You can always use a larger wire.  It only needs to follow the rules for routing and protecting ground wires, and it can follow any route back to the service panel.  It doesn't need to go to the panel, only to

any outlet or junction which also has a #10 or larger ground going back to the panel (water heater, A/C, dryer if grounded, etc.
anywhere on the grounding electrode system (the wire to your ground rods) I do not endorse using a general water pipe, because further plumbing mods may separate that.
any junction box connected by all metal conduit back to the panel.

At that point you convert the range receptacle to NEMA 14-50 and change the range plug and jumper, done.

If you were to do this before you converted the circuit to 120V/20A use, there's no question it's legit.

Retrofitting ground to a brand new 20A circuit

This is more fuzzy and I just don't know for sure.  I fear it may be subject to interpretation by AHJ.   I am concerned that if you had a 3-wire range connection, and then you converted it to 20A receptacles, and then you grounded it, the ruling might be "this is new work; the retrofit rules don't apply to new work; run new homerun(s).”

However if the AHJ is simpatico with this application, then you would be able to retrofit ground to these new receptacle circuits.  Same rules as above, however, the size of ground wire you need is 12 AWG (14 AWG if 15A circuit).  Obviously this is a lot easier, because you only need to reach a point with a #12 (or #14) ground wire running back to the panel, and that can probably be found a whole lot closer.

And to be clear on this point, larger wire than proscribed is always OK.  Suppose the required size is #12... you use #8 ground wire because you have some. You reach a point with #10 running back to the panel. That's all fine for grounding either a 40A or 15/20A circuit.


How can I repair a leak in my anti-siphon spigot?

The anti-siphon valves I installed on my outside faucets are brass and one could  drill multiple holes in the brass around the set screw to weaken it, then tear out the screw.


Are all switches in a 4-way circuit the same?

Note - these remarks are from a North American perspective, but I believe switching is done the same way in Europe.

Switch terminology can be confusing but once you understand it, it is pretty simple.

When there's just one switch controlling the lights, it's simple, just a plain switch, labelled ON in the up position, OFF in the down position.  Technically this plain switch is a single pole single throw (SPST) switch but that's not important, nobody uses that term for building wiring.  You turn the switch on, the lights turn on, turn the switch off, the lights turn off.

When you have more than one switch, you want any switch to "toggle" the lights at any time - if they're on, flip any switch and they turn off;  if they're off, flip any switch and they turn on.  As you'd expect, in multi switch circuits, switches are not labelled ON or OFF.

When there's two switches controlling the light, you use two three-way switches.  Flip either switch to toggle the lights.  The switches are called three way switches because they have three terminals to attach wires, not because there are three switches in the circuit.  (Technically a three-way switch is a single pole double throw switch (SPDT) switch but again that term isn't really used in building wiring in North America.  Everyone just calls them three-way switches.)

The wires between the two three-way switches are referred to as "travelers" and the other wire is referred to as the "common."  The diagram shows the logical arrangement of the source power, the switches, and the load.  The physical routing of the wiring may be much different depending how things are laid out.  There are also some special purpose three way circuits that are wired a little differently.

When there's three or more switches controlling the light, you use two three way switches and one or more four way switches.  Four way switches have four terminals.  A four way switch is a variant of a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch, but again that's not really important.

Note that you can have as many four-way switches as you want between the two three-ways at the ends.  You don't use five-way switches for four lights.  The position of the terminals on the switches also varies - you have to check the instructions or markings on the switch to determine how the travelers are connected.


1st, the white wires should be completely covered with black tape. Try putting both same colors at the top and at the bottom, if you have verified all these wires are the travelers from 2, 3-way switches.

In this diagram the light is off. Toggling any of the switches will turn it on.

hometoys.com


How do I protect my new roof while working on siding?

Yes. You would want to protect the shingles if there is to be a lot of foot traffic on the roof. A good way to provide that protection is to get a couple sheets of 1/2" plywood which you lay over the shingles. You can also cut the plywood to size in the case that whole sheets do not cover the work area. The plywood does need to be secured in place so that it does not slide off the roof slope.

One way to secure the plywood is to install some roofing scaffold brackets at the lower edge of the roof.

These brackets are secured using two or three roofing nails through the angled slots. Ideally on a warm day a shingle tab can be carefully lifted up and the nails installed under the tab. Later when the bracket is removed it slides off the nails and then they are hammered down flat and covered over with a dab of roofing sealer and the shingle tab folded down flat.

The plywood can sit down against the bracket directly or a flat 2x6 is laid across the brackets and then the plywood sheets are placed just above the flat 2x6. One advantage of the 2x6 is that it is thicker than the plywood and provides an additional edge for security when getting onto or off the roof from/to the ladder.

Even better than a ladder would be to stack some regular scaffolding brackets from the ground up to the roof level edge and use that as the means to gain access to the roof.


While flipping breakers on and off, I had my hand shocked

Yes, absolutely. Call an electrician and make sure nobody touches the board. There might be 2 problems: operating circuit breakers must never result in getting an electric shock. That could be  caused by one or two  metal parts near the switch with different potential. Or the switch and board is very dirty inside and outside, which caused a surface current to the hand. This is the first issue to be corrected. Probably there is a second problem, i.e. a missing RCD = residual current device which is upstream of a circuit breaker and interrupts when current is flowing through the body.  But a RCD does only interrupt if a ground current is involved. If the hand was touching a phase and neutral and the rest of the body was well insulated from ground ( dry weather, insulating soles, dry skin, dry clothes, etc.), a RCD does not prevent a shock.


How to cleanly remove, and reuse, an area of plasterboard (drywall)

It's not practical or cost efficient (even with "free" labor) to remove drywall for reuse.
However, since what you are (evidently) "really" after is an access panel to your piping, you might get away with the following:

Identify via strong magnet locating lines of fasteners, or your
stud-finding method of choice where the studs are.
Identify as closely as possible by measurement where your pipes of interest are.
Cut from stud to stud somewhat above and below the area of interest, to provide adequate working room. Cut along side the studs to release that section of plasterboard, and remove it.
Do whatever needs doing in there.
Realize that plumbing access panels are a Good Thing® and frame the opening with some simple wood strips
Install a wooden panel slightly larger than the hole or use the cut-out plasterboard as a panel screwed to your strips
If using plasterboard, install some thin wood strips to cover the joint (do not apply joint compound - the whole point is to not have to rip the wall open again the next time, because there will be a next time, if not for you then for the next owner.)


How to run data cable in an attic with blown fiberglass insulation

Blown fiberglass is fairly easy to move aside and replace once the work is done. Do your best to fluff and level it, and try to avoid disrupting areas of high slope, as they'll be more difficult to restore. Where you can, simply staple the cable to the roof truss members rather than dropping it in the insulation. The less you compress it the better.

Be sure to wear a simple dust mask to avoid half a day of coughing afterward. There's a lot of atmospheric dust on top of that already irritating material.


Can a smart switch work as a conventional switch?

Unfortunately, the answers to both of your questions are almost certainly "No".

As far as I can see, that system (like many other similar ones) does not run the power wiring for your lights to the switches.
The power for the lights runs to the control box(es) and from there runs to the lights themselves.

The switches are wired to the control box(es) using much smaller signalling/communication wiring - so the switches themselves do not see or handle the 'real' switching of the power to your lights.

Removing the control boxes leaves you with no power to your lights, and the only option you'd have is to simply bridge across where the control boxes were - resulting in your lights being always on.

You can't replace the smart switches with dumb switches because the switches and control boxes have a communication protocol which they use to talk to each other. The control box wouldn't know what the dumb switch is trying to tell it with a simple on/off signal when it's expecting to see a complex 'language' over the wire.

Unless you want to go through with the exercise of completely re-wiring the switches (replacing the small-gauge signal cables with larger power wires) you're stuck with this (or another similar) 'smart' system.

FWIW I design & program commercial smart lighting systems like this for my day-job...


OK, it looks like you wired the fan in series with the lights. Disconnect the fan. Get the lights to works like they did before. Then, after turning off the power, disconnect the two wires leading to the lights. Connect the wires from the fan to the wires from the lights, white to white, and black to black if in the USA. Then connect those two sets to the two wires that originally fed just the lights.


Could there be a hidden floor drain in the area? It wouldn't explain why the timing is so regular, but it might be connected to something that does. I've dealt with a similar come-and-go odor problem in a commercial buidling that ended up being a 4 inch open floor drain that was just carpeted over when the building was turned into offices. That drain line connected into a drainage system that was tied to a nearby building that housed a chicken processing operation. You can imagine what sorts of things were washed down their pipes. It typically only smelled during the dry season, I suppose because some elbow trap between us and the odor dried out.


How to have my house inspected for mold?

I don’t like the self test kits either. Part of what you are hiring a testing agency for is 1) knowing what to test, 2) knowing how to take a “clean” test, 3) interpreting the test results, and 4) giving an estimate for abatement.

1) There are agencies that specialize in mold and some specialize in asbestos. If you suspect mold, I’d ask for their resume and then verify it. They will know where and what to test. Make sure they are bonded (ask the name and phone number of their bonding agency) and if they have worked for a local public agency like the school district, city, water board, county, etc. is a plus.

2) The containers must be “clean” and a sufficient amount of the sample suitable to test. The test samples are sent to an independent testing lab and will test for what the testing agency requests. BTW, it might not be your home. It could be furniture, clothing, car seats, etc.

3) The lab does not interpret the results. The agency will give a range of “acceptable” results. There is good and bad mold... not all mold needs to be removed.

4) Each test will cost about $25 - $35 each, where I live. The report (interpretation) will cost about $500 - $1800 depending on the number of “positive” results. The testing agency will be able to give an estimate of the cost of abatement based on quantity and location.

GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING. Make sure they give a start date and end date.

Oh, btw, if the report comes back positive and you don’t have 100% removed, you must include it your disclosure statement when you go to sell.


Reason

A sprinkler head's pop-up mechanism seals and becomes water tight when fully raised/extended. This only happens after being supplied with sufficient water.

A sprinkler that is not fully extended will allow more water to exit than the same sprinkler that is fully extended. The high water pressure actually creates its own water tight seal, and only allows water to escape through the spray head. Low pressure water will escape from around the pop-up mechanism and the spray head.

The catch-22 is that with too low of pressure, the system can't self seal and build up pressure. It will do what you're seeing and just continue to never seal.

A way to test that I'm correct is to get a small group of people and have one person stand over each sprinkler head and pull it up while the system is showing these symptoms. Fully extending all of the sprinklers manually and holding them there will seal the system and make it start working on it's own. They could all now walk away and the system will continue to work until it is shut off.

After my explanation, it may seem like I'm saying that your problem is low pressure. Your problem is actually low flow. Water pressure only exists because of a restriction to flow. If you cut off the end of your water main after your water meter and let the water freely shoot towards the sky, you'd have 10 gallons per minute of water going everywhere, but your water pressure would actually be at 0 psi. Water pressure doesn't mean much without knowing the amount of flow as well.

It's confusing because your sprinklers seal from both flow and pressure in a way. They seal when the restriction to flow is great enough to raise the heads and make them stay there. If you don't have enough flow, you'll never build up enough pressure to overcome the leaks around the pop-up mechanism for it to self seal.

If we can increase the flow at startup to this zone, it will make the sprinklers seal. Or if we can decrease the number of sprinkler heads on this zone, we can reduce the flow required to make the the sprinklers seal.

Solution

The solution requires you to find out why this one zone is different from the others. Does this zone have more sprinkler heads than the others? Reduce the number of sprinklers on that zone.

Is this zone at the end of a long run of a copper pipe that's too small of diameter, or a galvanized steel pipe that's corroded and restricts flow inside? Install a larger diameter pipe from your main to your valve.

Is your sprinkler solenoid valve only 3/4"? Increasing it to 1" might be all you need to do. The sprinkler solenoid valve is typically the largest bottleneck in the entire system.

Splitting your misbehaving zone into two zones is an option, as that will cut the flow required to self seal in half.

If you can't do anything significant like that, your final option is to replace your sprinklers with low flow sprinklers with the same coverage. You'll need to water for a longer duration, but it'll reduce the flow required to self seal the system at startup.

Conclusion

Anything that will increase flow to this zone and removes bottlenecks, or that reduces the amount of sprinkler heads or the sprinkler head flow will be how you fix this problem.


Only one side of 220V Outlet has power. Dryer shuts off after 5 minutes

First, you need to change that to a 4-prong socket (NEMA 14-30) and cord (and I bet the dryer came with a 4-prong cord).   The 3-prong type is obsolete and dangerous.  If the neutral wire loses contact, it will energize the chassis of the dryer - and I bet the washing machine is grounded, isn't it? :)  It's a matter of time before you touch the equipment in the wrong way, and blammo.
How likely is a wire losing contact? It's happening to you right now.
That plug has been retired for decades - it's only sold today as unit replacements for houses which can't use a 4-prong.  You definitely can -- there's a ground wire inside that junction box.
Now, if the ground wire is already tied to the metal box, then you will not need to run a ground wire to the 4-prong socket -- it will pick it up automagically via the hard flush contact with the metal box.

As far as your immediate problem, it's not defective wires. It's unbelievably unlikely for a momentary surge to destroy a wire.  However, it's very common for surges to take out wire connections (where they meet the screw).  We presume the dryer end is good because you just redid it...
... so that leaves the breaker end.  Your test measured voltage to the breaker screw, not the quality of the wire connection at that screw.
Don't forget to check the neutral wire inside the service panel... everbody forgets that one.  Remember, a loose neutral with a 3-prong socket creates the condition that will kill you so treat that dryer with fear and respect until you have either installed a 4-prong outlet, or have positively cleared this problem.


What’s is the consequence of trimming too much of a wood door?

It looks like from your picture (wild guess) you have 35 mm on both sides. 12 mm should do nothing to the structural integrity of your door. More picture and measurement would be always helpful.


Separate boiler and AC, to which does C wire connect for Nest thermostat

Run it from the A/C air handler

According to this tech support article from Nest, the Nest prefers Rc and C over Rh and C when all three are connected.

So, I'd run a new thermostat cable (18/8 is trivial to find, although even 18/4 or 18/5 will do for what you're doing) in place of the old one from the air handler -- this gives you spare wires so you can use one for a C wire from the Nest to your air handler.  Once you have the wire in place (blue is the standard color), you can connect it to the C terminal on the Nest and to the #6 terminal (as you have identified in the diagram) on your air handler's terminal block.

From there, Rh and W1 on the Nest go to the red and white wires from the boiler cable, while Rc, Y1, and G go to the red, yellow, and green wires in the new cable to the air handler.  At the air handler end, the red wire goes to R (#8 terminal), the green wire goes to G (#7 terminal), and the yellow wire goes to Y (#2 terminal).


Great Stuff makes a fireblock sealant that is minimal expanding. It's actually specifically designed for penetrations between floors and through fire walls (required in commercial situations, but works equally well here).


Retrofitting a remote opener into a garage-gate motor

In honesty retrofitting a remote into a very old system is not always the best method.
Replacement of the gate opener system in whole provides for more options.  I would assume since it was not shown that you do not have as-built wiring diagrams of this current system.
With out diagrams it will require testing and and a new diagram made to retrofit a new control properly.  Once a wiring diagram exists then based on what is shown options from commercial sources to do-it-yourself controllers exist.
I am building a remote gate controller WIFI based with IPhone control Iphone control using an Arduino.  It is a simple remote control relay setup.
Another is a simple relay control working via web Web control that could act as switches in place of the buttons. and can be controlled by web page n a smart phone.
Several companies make commercial versions of smart phone controllers.  Some designed to work on the 433Mhz remote control type garage openers common in newer vehicles.  According to documentation HOMELINK is 310Mhz.

If the wiring in this image matches what you have installed, then three relays could be wired in parallel to the switches once the control voltage is determined.
These could be controlled then by older HOMELINK relay controller types, finding the best HOMELINK relay controller for three devices is the hard part.
I know the X10 system made a standalone relay driver control, single relay.
As well there are single relay receivers on the 315Mhz frequency but if they will react to the HOMELINK controls is not clear.

Another option is to make a bridge to a newer controller using some thing like X10 to INSTEON converter
This may offer ability to convert X10 to control a Insteon switch.  Three switches wired in parallel across you manual push buttons, if buttons need more current or higher voltage then a relay board is offered.  If they are AC 115 then a appliance control could be substituted.
Smartenit EZX10RF INSTEON / X10 RF Wireless Sensor Receiver
I/O Linc™ – INSTEON® Low Voltage/Contact Closure
Interface (1 In/1 Out)
Model: 2450


Going to be away for 4 months, should we turn off the refrigerator or leave it on with water inside?

If you're gone for a long time, it's good to turn off anything that doesn't really need to be on.  Not only does that not waste power, but it reduces the chance of something bad happening.

The issue with fridges is that they collect moisture inside and they seal well. That's a bad combination if moisture starts out in the box.  The way to deal with that is to address the two issues.  After the fridge has been off for a while, make sure there isn't a pool of water in a tray or someplace.  This includes the result of ice melting inside the freezer.  Once everything is dry, address the second issue by propping the doors open.  The fridge will be no different than any other box then.  There is no reason for new moisture to collect, and it's ventilated anyway.


Humidity levels in new basement are high

Did it often rain in the last days/weeks?
Do the neighbours (new buildings) have the same problem?
Are all doors/windows in the basement closed during daytime?

As stated before, a new building needs to get rid of all the water in the concrete and other material. This can take many months, even if concrete may reach its final strength after 1 month.
A basement should be vented only during night time. The statistically dryer air can get in, will be heated a little bit during daytime (closed doors/windows), and thus conveys water out of the building, when this air will be replaced with dryer air from outdoor the next night.
This is also valid when using dehumidifiers. Windows/doors closed during daytime, open during night time.
All material which is to be dryed should not be covered with anything. The water must find a way to diffuse out of the material.
Incorrect drying of buildings is the most often mistake that causes huge damages to buildings - in the long run.


Diagnosing frequent trips on arc fault / ground fault (dual) breakers

Trip diagnostics a-la QO

The QO dual function and combination arc fault breakers use a somewhat peculiar procedure for trip reason readout, as detailed in the installation instructions:

Turn the breaker OFF.
Push and hold the TEST button for the remainder of the procedure
Start a stopwatch at the same time you turn the breaker back ON
Stop the stopwatch when the breaker trips:

Immediate trip: ground fault or arc to ground
Trip after 2s: arc fault
Trip after 5s: no fault or overcurrent/short circuit

Further diagnosis if this doesn't yield anything

If the diagnostic procedure above doesn't yield anything, I would turn the breaker ON with the culprit load plugged in and switched ON (running), but no other loads on the circuit, and then measure the time from turn-ON to breaker trip.  A fast trip (within a second or two) would indicate a short-circuit somewhere (bolted fault), while a slow trip (several seconds to minutes) would indicate that the load in question is overloading the circuit.

You can also try plugging the Keurig into a GFCI outlet on a different (non dual function protected) circuit and seeing if it trips the GFCI there; if it does, then it's definitely toast.  If you get an arc fault reading for the kitchen circuit, though, I would focus on the wiring as the source of the trouble; you can use classical "divide and conquer" troubleshooting to isolate the faulty wiring run if need be, by the way.


Cheap & Effective Way to Soundproof Windows

There are a lot of options you could consider depending on your budget and opinion on "cheap".  There are acoustic dampening windows you could look into if you have a higher budget and don't mind replacing your window.  If you're sure that the main source of noise penetration is through the window, which is to be expected, then this might be the best / most permanent route.  The AudioSeal looks pretty promising, and there are some more cheaper options.  A simple search for 'Transparent Vinyl Barrier' gives you a lot of relevant results.  The quality and the transparency of the product will depend on your budget.  Curtains, and specifically acoustic cancelling curtains might be your best bet, but they can be pricey (and very cheap, technically you could use your bedsheets as curtains, although they wouldn't help much).

Here are some relevant links you might want to check out:

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/block-out-noise-coming-through-window-31141.html

and

http://removeandreplace.com/2014/12/02/how-to-soundproof-a-window-and-block-noise/

Good luck!


WD-40 is not a lubricant which is why it's only lasting a short time.
Use something to clean it out, carb and choke cleaner is reasonable and follow that with some compressed air.
Then apply some graphite-based lock lube to the moving parts.  These are also often called "dry" lube and they don't hold dust like oil-based lubes can.
Once it all moves freely with the new lube, you should be good to go.


What sound frequencies does a circular saw emit?

Here is a whole paper dedicated to your problem... a study of a table saw's noisiness


I think you should reconsider reliance on unproven technology (magnetic water conditioning). There is a "lack of peer-reviewed laboratory data, mechanistic explanations, and documented field studies to support its effectiveness"

and "an internal study in 1996 at Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory found no difference in preferred crystal structure of scale deposited in magnetic water treatment systems", disproving hypotheses of proponents of the technology.


Why won't HVAC supply stores sell directly to the public?

Their insurance may lean that way. Rates are probably lower if they are not selling to end-users. They may also not have to deal with sales tax, if they are not selling to end-users.

As for the (or more) economic incentive many take for granted: the cost of customer service. The below consumes valuable man-hours and to staff this could double payroll:

They may also prefer dealing with competent licensed professionals, because they will have less time wasted on "dumb questions" (there are such things, really, even if you've been told otherwise) and irate "genusies" who bought the wrong thing for the wrong job and want a refund because it didn't work, or because they are used to getting "free rentals" by exploiting big-box-store policies that allow them to return things even after they have used them.

The competent licensed professional also provides them with a repeat/regular customer base - how often do YOU buy an air conditioning system? How many do you buy per year? Do you buy parts by the case? Less of their time spent moving more product is more profit for them, even if they sell it at a discount to the professionals (which is common, based on volume.)

There is also a concern about the proper handling and recycling of refrigerants - few if any homeowners own a vacuum pump, much less a refrigerant recovery system.

There are websites that sell various things (I happen to have been looking at mini-split system heat pumps recently) but you still need a licensed installer to assemble them; both for legal reasons (EPA) and practical ones (that vacuum pump, etc.) In many cases, you'll do better to just buy the system from a local installer than to buy it online and then pay an installer to assemble it for you.


I know you can get them from Uline, they call them Carboys.

I'm not sure if this is a standard name for a jug with a spigot, googling for carboy would lead me to believe it is not. As Jacob S pointed out, these are sometimes called a "rectangular carboy"

There is a similar product at The Container Store, they call them Slimline Fridge Jugs


Can I run a radio dog fence loop through EMT to reduce the signal?

To shield the surrounding area from an RF source such as an "invisible" dog fence, you must enclose the RF source in a very good conductor that is well grounded.  EMT may not be good enough (being zinc plated steel) and it will certainly have to be well grounded to have a possibility of working.

Another way to do this, which I have done myself, is use twisted pair wire for carrying the the signal.  In those areas where you want no barrier run the twisted pair together and in those areas where you do want a barrier separate the twisted pair into an open loop.  To be invisible to the dog's receiver, the twisted pair needs to carry the outgoing and returning signal so that they will exactly cancel, and to be visible to the collar the conductors need to be separated into a loop by a foot or more (i.e. either along the top and bottom of a fence or at ground level).


Trying to find the transformer for my doorbell

Just to provide an answer for the question, this is outputting the correct voltage and it was identified by a commenter as a valid transformer. I will accept in 48 hours.


Can I slide out pieces of laminate and replace?

Yes, you can do that. But remember that there's a tremendous amount of friction between adjacent pieces, and getting ones that have longer edges in contact out is going to need a lot of elbow grease.

I had to do this when laying laminate. Had about a dozen pieces that stopped short of the front door (we originally planned vinyl there and changed our minds), so had to remove these  shorter pieces and lay laminate across the entire area.

It helps to cut out a notch in the piece you're removing, then slot the smaller edge of your pull bar in, and use your hammer to remove the laminate. It's a long and noisy process, but can be easily done.


Issue with using a smart 3 way switch, with a normal 3 way switch

Smart switches are not equal partners like old style 3-way switches.  They are "master" and "remote".

This model of smart switch is a "master" and requires certain models of "remote" which require "neutral" (white wire) to be present in both switch boxes.  That is not always so, as the electrical code only recently started requiring it.

So I'd first check the other box - if there's no neutral in it, you cannot wire a remote (though wireless options may exist).  Useless old work can be dangerous, so tidy up by removing the 3-way switch, wire-nut the common to one of the messengers (trial and error will reveal which), cap the other one off, and put a blank wall plate over the hole.

If a white wire is already wired to a terminal on the old 3-way switch, bad news - that is NOT a neutral, but one of the messengers (the two inter-switch wires).  Before the code change, they often used common 14/2 Romex for messenger, and one of the wires is white.  They're supposed to paint or tape it.

If there is a neutral in both boxes, you can wire a remote.  First, figure out which box is upstream (closest to the service panel aka breaker box).  It will contain a wire that is always hot - regardless of the position of any switch.

Then review the diagram (which you already linked) showing you the wiring scheme for whichever remote you bought. You will need to re-use both of the old messenger wires.


Why is my refrigerator over-cooling to the point of freezing?

This could be a bad Damper Control Assembly. Your fridge pulls cold air from the freezer section and more modern models tend to have an electronic controlled port that opens and closes to regulate the fridge temp. If the fridge is too warm or cold, the assembly is letting too much or too little in.

That part is not terribly expensive (showing around $60 at various online retailers for your model) and seems to be easily replaced.


How to get the sunshine and sunlight in my house

Tubular skylights, a suntube in use and available from Solatube. There's roofing and carpentry involved but no framing needed. They're the only way to have a skylight with an attic above without blowing out your ceiling. Cut 2 holes, flash it to the roof, enjoy.


Building a Circular Platform using 12" wide boards

Here is a diagram of what you need. Cut each piece exactly the same with a 75 degree angle on the ends. If they are all the same it will go together alright even if you do not make the outside length of each piece be 23.2937.

If you use planed 1x12 pine boards they will be more like 11.25 inches wide.

Dimensions are in inches.


No, that's not a valve. It looks like a drain, as might be useful if the fitting had been installed in a fire sprinkler or steam line, or functionally just an odd-ball tee fitting.


Whether or not you open or close the windows is going to depend on the specifics of a situation. It's not something I would automate, it's too variable. But if you want too be sure, make an appointment to speak with your local Fire Marshall, that's kind of their job to know these sort of things.


Evaluating possible early breaker failures

If you've had some trouble, you're certainly not being paranoid.

I am curious why the service person didn't move the circuit to a fresh breaker in a fresh spot in the panel, I wonder if the contact surfaces from the bad breaker are messed up, they may need attention.  I also feel it's best to take questionable equipment completely out of service, I wouldn't have put it in a fresh spot in the panel.  It's possible this problem may be beyond the service person's electrical expertise, some maintenance people are fully qualified licensed electricians, some know just enough to be dangerous (literally).

I never like to switch lights at the panel.  Like everything else, breaker quality isn't what it used to be.  There's usually a better way to do things without breaking the bank.

Anyway, I bet you already thought of all of the above.  I'd suggest you have the panel inspected by a qualified commercial electrician who will have the knowledge and equipment to conclusively test the breaker.  If they find no trouble then you spent a few bucks to rest easy, if they find trouble it would be reasonable to ask the landlord to reimburse you for the cost of the testing.


Can I use glue instead of nails to install shoe molding?

Shoe molding may have to be removed in the future to work on the floor or the wall. That's fairly easy with nails. It's fairly difficult with glue, unless you use something like hide glue that's specifically intended to allow disassembly ... and the techniques used for that would be hard to apply in situ to parts of a house.

Generally, don't glue anything that may need to be serviced, unless you're willing to risk having to destroy it to remove it.


What is this 110/24V 60Hz transformer in the breaker room for?

My guess would be the doorbell or an intercomm system. Something like that. The original heating system might have needed 24 volts.

Disconnect it and see what does not work.


How can I secure vinyl plank flooring that has lifted?

Ans OP question in comment.
Updated to change the glue to be used.
1. to help with the glue mess, place transparent packaging tape along both edges.  Tape as close to the edge as possible.
2. You may have to insert a couple of thin wedges, screwdriver, etc. in the gap to get enough clearance to get the glue in
3. use a glue wedge tip or screwdriver to push the glue in the gap and underneath the plank

I would use Gorilla Glue Clear, which is waterproof and glue most surfaces.  This is only a small area.
After inserting the glue into the gap, wipe off any excess.
lay a layer of wax paper over the repair area.  this is to prevent the glue from sticking to the heavy weights that you will place on top of the gap to push it down even to the floor.
Place heavy weights on the gap and wait for the glue to dry.

If your scotch tape can hold it down, then this should work.  See what comments are posted on the use of Gorilla Glue Clear as the glue for this solutions.
Caution:  Make sure it is Gorilla Glue Clear,  other Gorilla products may be the forming type, which you do NOT want to use.


Is peel and stick vinyl tile flooring really waterproof?

They are waterproof in that you can get the top as wet as you want.  They are not waterproof in that they will keep water off your floor, nor will said water not affect the bond to the floor.  These tiles may be able to last sitting in water but they will not keep water from getting underneath.  Your only options are really one sheet of vinyl or tile (could I guess use a membrane).

If you install these right though I would bet that 99% of the water (given you don't just let an inch of standing water sit) will never meet your subfloor.  No caulk is needed, just make sure that all of the edges are tight and clicked into place.  To keep your bathroom better suited for a kid you may want to make sure baseboard are sitting right on these and caulk between baseboard and tile.


How can I remove the coating from black iron pipe?

It is "mill varnish" , nothing to do with mill scale. I find no definition in the  ASTM index. Very likely it is a varnish ; A resin plus a solvent/vehicle. Mineral spirits or gasoline should take it off. Different mills may use different products as there is no firm definition. It is applied to new , relatively scale free pipe. A industrial purchaser does not want to see his brand new pipe delivery covered with rust. Oil companies sometime order pipe with no mill varnish as it is a nuisance to remove. I have seen it hard like paint , I have seen is still gooey. Mill scale is thick black iron oxide scale; Fe O and Fe3 O4. The mill removes scale with concentrated sulfuric acid. I have seen some new steel products with scale allowed to weather , rust ( complex hydrated Fe3 O4 - brown) will loosed the mill scale so blast cleaning is easier


Combine evaporative cooling with ventilation to increase efficiency of temperature equalization?

The way evaporative cooling works is that it forces air through moistened pads, evaporating the water and cooling and humidifying the air. The cooled and humidified air is then blown through the house and back outside again, lowering the interior air temperature and producing a cooling breeze as well. If I understand you correctly, you are asking if you could use evaporative cooling to use the heat already inside the house to evaporatively cool the rest of it. I don't think this will be any more effective than simply using outside air. After all, if it works, the temperature of the interior air will rapidly fall below the outside air temperature, eliminating the high temperature inside.

You have correctly identified that ventilation is necessary for evaporative cooling to work. You basically have two options: crack some windows, or use a dedicated ventilation system. Here in the southwest, there is a product called UpDux that is basically a vent that allows air exchange from the room to the attic above. They are used in warm-season houses that are evaporatively-cooled, allowing the cooled and humidified air to escape through the attic, with two benefits: 1) they allow you to keep your windows closed, and 2) the air cools the attic as well on its way out of the house, preventing the attic heat from heating up the interior so much. In your apartment, installing such products is not likely an option. I'd crack some windows in the rooms farthest from where you locate the evaporative cooler.

However, you have a potential problem: San Francisco is fairly humid for evaporative cooling. Less than the national average, but I see at http://www.city-data.com/city/San-Francisco-California.html that the afternoon relative humidity in July only falls to 30% in the afternoon, and it's higher than that most of the time.

You can figure out exactly how effective evaporative cooling will be using this calculator: http://www.srh.noaa.gov/epz/?n=wxcalc_rh

For example, plug in 90 degrees for the temperature, 30% for the relative humidity, and 30 inches of mercury for the atmospheric pressure. That will give you 67.55 degrees for the wet-bulb temperature. That's the theoretical cooling power of a 100% efficient evaporative cooler. Unfortunately, 100% efficiency is impossible unless you get a two-stage unit that is very expensive; assume more like 70-90%. Here is the formula for the real-life cooling power of a less-than-100%-efficient evaporative cooler:

Air temperature - ((air temperature - calculated wet bulb temperature) * efficiency)

So, 90 - ((90-67.5)*0.8) = 71.6. So an 80% efficient evaporative cooler, such as the Bonaire Durango window unit I own and love, would blow 71 degree air at 100% humidity into your house.

I can tell you from experience that once your evap cooler is blowing air that's in the 70s, it stops working that well, because the cooling power you're receiving is offset by the mugginess of the interior relative humidity rising to 60% or higher, which is also dangerous for a wood-framed house because that's approaching the mold-friendly level.

This may work anyway, since 71 degree air is certainly more comfortable than 85 degree air, but you'll need to keep it running constantly because 71 degree air is probably not going to cool the house down to below 77 or so, based on my knowledge of the heat gain you're receiving in a likely awfully-built, basically uninsulated San Francisco building with terrible clear-glazed single-pane windows. Additionally, you'll want to keep the windows open wide to ensure maximum air exchange to the exterior to keep the interior relative humidity down. If this is a plan worth pursuing, I would buy a hygrometer so you can measure the interior relative humidity for yourself.


Going by the drip edge over top the ledger it appears indeed that there is siding behind the ledger.
You can confirm this by measuring the distance from the front of the cut joist to the siding and on its other side to the ledger, and there would be 1.5in difference.
The ledger may be nailed all the way through the siding and through any sheathing into the bottom plate, which is structural. Expect long and strong 8d nails.
You should thus be able to remove the ledger and the siding will appear behind it, which you can then paint to match.
You can remove the drip edge, and lever off the ledger with a break iron etc.. An alternative is to cut the ledger's nails by carefully cutting between the ledger and the siding, reaching in from the top, with a 6in reciprocal saw.


Amazon has a very purchaser-friendly return policy. Many times you won't have to pay return shipping. If you suspect a defect or any faults it would be wise to return the item rather that void the warranty by trying to repair an unknown problem. If you do order another replacement I've learned that it is usually best to purchase an Original Equipment Manufacturers part (if it's a Frigidaire stay with Frigidaire parts). Parts are usually a bit more expensive, but they tend to last longer than generic or "OEM-like" replacements.


Tankless water heater causes magnets (ceiling fans, induction oven) to hum while actively heating water

The problem is probably that the new unit uses solid-state control to vary the power delivered to the heating elements, which makes it more energy-efficient than the old-fashioned on/off control. Those solid-state controllers are notorious for introducing harmonic "noise" on the mains, and a 13 kW one could easily affect other circuits fed from the same main breaker panel. Resistive loads like heaters and incandescent lights aren't affected much, but loud humming from magnetic/inductive loads is textbook harmonic interference.
The first thing I'd try is complain to Rheem about excessive harmonic noise. An expensive brand-name water heater should have some built-in EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference) filtering to minimize the effect. If it's making your induction stove sing, it's definitely "excessive" harmonics, and it might possibly even damage sensitive electronics plugged in elsewhere in the house. (That's not very likely, but is technically possible, and if needed it might make a useful line of argument to get Rheem motivated to take you seriously.)
The traditional way to eliminate harmonic interference (used with industrial VFD variable-frequency motor controllers, for example) is to connect the "noisy load" (your water heater) via a harmonic filter or isolation transformer. That's very effective, but I can't say I've ever seen a 13 kW harmonic isolation transformer marketed toward residential use... and the cost may be prohibitive. Industrial electrical suppliers and data-center power-supply companies are the obvious place to start looking if you go that route.


Toggle bolts and Ez screw in anchors can be used if the studs don’t Line up where you want. Static vertical loads on sheetrock walls are what Ez anchors or self drilling anchors are really good at holding.
Make you use the correct sized and type (plastic or metal anchors).
I prefer Ez anchors in the rentals as they are less work to repair when new renters move in (unscrew them and patch the hole) verses drilling some types out or pushing through and having to fix a much larger hole.
I have no affiliation with Ez anchors or self drilling anchors but have used them in my own home and rentals. There are small and large sized anchors make to use the appropriate one for the load being supported.


Trane XV80 furnace, two wire setup, wanting continuous fan when no heat is needed

It's probably simpler to just wire a switch at the furnace wired R and G. In the summer you just hit the switch. You can switch the wires in your furnace and thermostat to have control at the stat. Or you could install a Fast Stat, which uses two wires to signal a full complement of wires.


The standard wiring pattern in USA (but not necessarily elsewhere in the world) for 110/120 AC is

  black - hot
  white - neutral
  bare or green - ground

The hot wire brings the current to the outlet or fixture, often through a switch.

The neutral completes the circuit back to the panel.

The ground is a safety mechanism that, hopefully, will shunt the hot current to the ground (literally) rather than through a person if there is a short.

The terminals of a single pole switch (the only switch in a circuit and turning on/off one device or one set of devices) get the black wires, one on each terminal. Many switches also have a grounding terminal. This is not one of the switch terminals, but is usually a green screw on the metal strap of the switch frame, often on the opposite side from the terminal screws.

In general the white wires in a box should always be connected to each other, and never to or through a switch.

Similarly, the ground (bare) wires should be connected to each other and to the ground  screw if the switch has one.

In your case, one set of wires (black, white, bare) are the source of the power, and one set (also black, white, bare) go to the fixture.

More complicated systems are possible with more colors, more switching choices and other configurations, but they don't apply in this case.

To work on this, make sure that the power is off (a non contact tester is best), before handling any wires.


Plumbing and Vent Layout - back to back bathroom renovation

Back in the day all homes required a 4" stack.So no,the plumber was not an idiot.
You can snap a 4x2 combination into existing stack rather than drill another hole through roof.


How can I add a bathroom GFCI protected outlet?

If you provide power to the bidet, that circuit needs to be GFCI protected.  You can either run a line from the existing GFCI outlet (off the LOAD side, which is protected), or (I think) tap off an existing circuit that may be more convenient and put a GFCI outlet by the bidet.
When I added a washlette to my existing toilet, I chose to do the later as it was easier to tap into an existing circuit up in the attic above the bathroom and drop the cable down through the wall from the attic to near the toilet.


Solving poor upstairs airflow with a fan-powered vent

The fan idea would increase airflow, but the fans would have to be small to fit inside the duct.  Small fans trying to move a lot of air means lots of noise, so be prepared to deal with that.  There are commercial products available that do what you're describing.  I tried one (http://a.co/8beWhs0) and it helped, but it wasn't worth the noise to me.  It was especially annoying when the temperature was very close to the set point of the fan's thermostat because the fan would turn on and off every few seconds.

I suggest that you replace your HVAC system's thermostat with one that lets you schedule the fan to run periodically throughout the day.  (The Nest thermostat has this feature.)  It helps to even out the temperature around the house even when AC and heat aren't being used.

An attic fan and/or additional attic insulation could also help.


The usual length of 6x6 pressure-treated timber is 12', though you can get up to 24' (or longer) through special order, there is a rare need for that.
Technology around wood connectors has evolved and advanced rapidly, for your personal information use, I suggest visiting the "Simpson Strong-ties" website, to find the available hardware, cost, and uses. https://www.strongtie.com/


When installing a garbage disposal what kind of PVC pipe connects directly to the disposal?

The common disposal unit drain pipe connection looks like the following picture:

There may be some variation in the design of the tail pipe assemblies from manufacturer to manufacturer but the ones for the above type connection generally follow the form shown here:

These tail pipe pieces are generally supplied with the disposer. It is possible to purchase manufacturer specific tail pipes at appliance parts outlet stores and from online sites. It may also be possible to purchase a generic replacement at some hardware and big box home stores. If you purchase a new one make sure to include a new rubber gasket.

It has been my experience that a common cause of leaks at the disposer outlet is the corrosion of the body housing of the unit around the drain hole. In the cases I have dealt with it was time to replace the disposer unit with a new one. One thing to check is if the lower part of the disposer housing is wet or showing signs of rust and corrosion separate from the drain pipe attachment. If so this is often an indication of the sealed bearing inside the disposer starting to leak and is another reason for replacement. On disposers that I have replaced I have noticed leaks from both the bearing and the drain pipe area.


Can't select some temperatures with the thermostat of my furnace

The rotary encoder or the button that the knob pushes as it turns is broken. Unless you're the kind of person that likes opening small electronics and replacing components, there's probably no way to fix this. Just buy a new one, or send it back to the manufacturer for repair/replacement.


Check the flame sensor.  Sounds like the furnace may not be sensing that the burners are on. Also, consult the manufacturers documentation for trouble code light sequences. The flashing light might be trying to tell you something.
Unconfirmed Trane Error Codes
Codes are displayed using a light (LED) turning on a number of times, followed by a pause. For example:
._._._.___._._._.___
. = On _ = Off
Would be read as 4 flashes, and would mean that one of the limit switches was open.

Flashing Slow - Normal - No call for heat
Flashing Fast - Normal - Call for heat
2 Flashes - External lockout, retries or recycles exceeded.
3 Flashes - Pressure switch error.
4 Flashes - Open limit device.
5 Flashes - Flame sensed when no flame should be present.
6 Flashes - 120V power supply polarity reversed, or poor grounding.
7 Flashes - Gas valve circuit error.
8 Flashes - Low flame sense signal.
9 Flashes - Check igniter.


OK to bundle wires together with colored electrical tape?

It's mandatory

When putting identical-appearing circuits in a conduit, you must differentiate them somehow.  It's mandatory.

I would not bundle them but mark them individually.  Black(blue) and White(blue) for instance being the obvious pair. Bonus points: use a decent length (2") of shrinkwrap so the tape doesn't come off someday.

The reason I don't like bundling them is pulling. It will make pulling harder by making wires bind.

Get rid of those grounds

Grounds don't count against wire-size derate (on 10, 12, 14 AWG you are allowed 9 active conductors per conduit without worrying about derate). Having considered this math in every way possible on 120/240 split-phase, this means 4 circuits of any kind.

But they do count against conduit fill - in 1/2" EMT you are allowed 9 wires fullstop... and you are now full.  Dump two of the grounds and you will be able to fit a fourth circuit.  Use the 10-32 ground screws in the boxes to splice grounds.

EMT itself is a ground path. One ground in EMT is belt-and-suspenders.  Three is inexperience.  The only reason to pay the fill cost for that is if you were splitting the circuits into nonmetallic conduit downline, and the split point lacked any place to splice the grounds - I have had to do that.


First of all I would have used plastic pipes and fittings as they're much easier to install.

However, as long as you have the metal pieces, you can join them with a "Fernco" rubber joint. It is basically a short rubber hose with hose clamps.


Is it OK to stop the indoor blower during heat pump defrost on split-system heat pumps?

During the defrost cycle, inside heat is not being pushed to the outside as you stated  "the parasite heat load of heat that is being pushed from inside to outside to defrost the coils themselves". The inside fan has to run to insure that the liquid refrigerant entering the indoor coil is vaporized so that liquid refrigerant does not flow back to the compressor. The outdoor coil is defrosted by the "heat of compression". The temperature of the outdoor coil is elevated by the compressor pumping the refrigerant vapor to a very high pressure which produces a very hot gas to defrost the coil. Since the outdoor fan is turned off during the defrost cycle, the refrigerant does not condense and the coil pressure rises as does the coil temperature. The colder the outside temperature the need for defrost cycles is reduced due to less water vapor (humidity) being on the air. Less humidity results in less water vapor to coat the outdoor coil. The back-up heat is turned on to temper the now cold air that is being generated by the defrost cycle.-------- Add-on to answer; actually @ThreePhaseEel my explanation does answer your question; you asked if you could add a relay to shut off the indoor fan. You can , but do you want to gamble on slugging liquid into the compressor which may screw up the compressor. The indoor fan runs because it should. The heat strips turn on to keep the discharge air at a reasonable temperature. They do not have to run for the defrost to work.


It defines the physical size of bulb that can be accomodated.

  The most commonly used A-series light bulb type is the A19 bulb, which is 2 3⁄8 inches (60 mm) wide at its widest point, approximately 4 3⁄8 inches (110 mm) in length, and has a one-inch wide (type E26, i.e. approximately 26 millimetres wide) Edison screw base.

From Wikipedia

Any CFL that fits in the space provided should work

Some LED lamps sometimes need airflow to keep their temperature in operating ranges. So might have issues in a fully enclosed fixture


As long as it is dry, you are good to use it. If it has been exposed to excess humidity in any temperature it will harden in the bag.


What kind of air conditioner system do I have?

Starting from the left, at the beginning of your video are:

Your Gas Meter
A weather-proof outdoor, In-Use, electrical outlet mounted on the wall. The plastic box has a cover with a clip on the bottom-right corner and opens upwards to allow access to 2 standard electrical outlets. This has nothing to do with your air conditioner.
The electrical disconnect for your air conditioner compressor, also mounted on the wall. This metal box has a clip at the bottom and also open upwards. There may be live electrical contacts inside so I wouldn't recommend opening it if you can't see what you're touching.
Your air conditioner's outdoor compressor and condenser unit. This is the large metal enclosure on the ground, vented all around, with a large fan on top under a circular wire screen.

Your air conditioner is a split system, with the compressor and condenser outside in the large box with the fan on top, and the evaporator inside with the furnace. They're linked together with the foam-covered pipes, which carry the refrigerant between the two halves of the system.

The end of your video just shows an empty space against the wall to the left of the gas meter below a window, with a ladder lying on the ground.


Why is the defrost cycle of an HVAC so loud?

The defrost cycle is basically just running the heat pump in cooling mode without the outdoor fan. It's not going to be any louder then when it's running in cooling, it's just that the compressor noise is  disguised by the outdoor fan. The same holds true when the heat pump is in heating mode. The same compressor runs and knows no difference between heating, cooling or defrost mode.


Should I add an escape register for added ventilation in A/C duct to reduce condensation?

The hot attic has more latent heat (water vapor) due to both it's higher temperature and being vented to the outside. As that air mixes with the cooler interior air, relative humidity rises. When the more humid air hits the cold uninsulated duct, it condenses.

The first step is to seal the opening between the attic and the interior space to reduce convection and water vapor transfer between the attic and conditioned space. Insulating the duct would be the second step.


Does it make sense to replace gx24q-3 CFLs with e26 LEDs?

Most of the return on investment (ROI) evaluations I have completed have shown a positive ROI within 2 years 2 months for very expensive fixtures. When only changing the lamp the return is much quicker just a few months in some cases. But this is when relamping is needed. To go in and swap good functional lamps still has a positive ROI due to reduced maintenance and lower power consumption but wholesale swap of CFL to LED is not "green" due to the good material that is being disgarded. If new to you,,, not brand new it could be worth it as CFL life curves show less lumens as they age. If you are going to be in your home for at least 2 years it makes financial sence to make the change and after 2 years not having to replace the lamps, instant on at full brightness are additional reasons to change.


How do I wire a modern 240V 3 prong range to a 250V 50A 3 prong outlet?

That white wire can just...go
Since your new range doesn't use a neutral, and this circuit appears to be run in conduit, I would turn off the feeder to the subpanel box at the main panel, make sure the power's off in the sub, then unhook the white wire headed rangeward from the neutral bar of the subpanel and pull it out as a starting point.  While this may sound odd at the moment, it's actually a rather sensible move since you don't have separate neutral and ground in the feeder, thus we need to pick one or the other to provide at the subpanel, and since the other load has no use for neutral, we pick ground.
Of course, if you are planning to consolidate the panels, then the white wire can stay since it'll become a proper isolated neutral in that case.  You'll want to cap it off at the cooktop junction box in the meantime, though.
That subpanel needs to go, though, too
However, once that white wire's gone from the equation, the challenge begins, as sadly, that subpanel is a Zinsco, with all the relatively checkered failure history attendant to that fact.  Sadly, the fact it's recessed is going to make this a tricky (albeit rather necessary!) job, especially considering that retrofit interiors aren't made for small panels like yours.  You'll want to ignore the bonded bar and fit a ground bar to the new panel, though, landing the bare ground wires on the incoming feeder cable and outgoing 10/2 NM cable on the ground bar and leaving the bonded bar empty as a cue that neutral is not available at this panel.
Once all that's out of the way
Once you get all that taken care of, then the green wire from the range can just land on a small mechanical lug (Brumall 6T or equivalent 4-14 foot lug with a #10 hole in it) connected to the box by a 10-32 self-tapping screw (Garvin GSST).  From there, the conduit continues the equipment grounding path to the subpanel, which then is grounded via the bare outer braid of the SEU cable used to feed it.


How deep in ground should I install 4x4 PT fence posts?

If you already bought (and can't return) 8 foot wooden posts and you want a 7 foot high fence (or "at least 7 feet") I would suggest not burying them at all, as that's doomed to failure. Put metal post bases (or metal posts) in the ground and bolt your wooden posts to them. Otherwise buy 10 or 12 foot wooden posts if you want 7-8 feet above ground and you want them to stay put. Or, bury them 3-4 feet deep and bolt 2x2 or 2x4 lumber to them aboveground to get to 7 feet (or more) above ground level.

If you didn't already buy them I suggest you learn about metal posts, they are usually much less expensive and easier to set, as well as somewhat safer around livestock than PT wood. But you still need enough post in the ground to hold the post in the air stable, and unless you are drilling holes in solid rock to place your posts in, a 1-7 ratio is dubious in the extreme - and so is placing concrete footings above frost line. In reasonably solid ground an 8 foot post can be driven in 2 feet and leave 6 feet above ground, but your corner posts will definitely need some bracing to stay put, and/or will need to be longer.

Wire (mesh or not) is actually more demanding on the posts than a wooden fence - the wire pulls and provides no support - wooden fence sections provide some bracing to the posts.


How to change the bulbs in this hanging light fixture?

Here's one possibility.  The lantern may attach between the cover (the octagonal part at the top) and the fixture (the glass bits etc.).  See this manual for a very similar if not identical fixture.

If that's the case, then either like that manual suggests there will be a couple of "decorative" nuts hidden that attach the two, or it's possible the fixture screws into the cover itself (less likely with a squareish shape, but who knows what could be under that).  If the latter is the case, we're not talking a bell jar type screw, but one where it screws maybe a half turn from an "open" position to a "closed" position.

Decorative nuts can be hard to spot, since they're intended to be hidden, but there's likely 2 or possibly 3 - so see if there's some different thing either on opposite sides or in a triangle that might be hiding nuts.  I see something that looks like it could be a nut on the left side of the picture.


Is it ok to install vinyl windows from several different manufacturers?

I had similar questions on a new building project. I couldn't see enough difference in the frame designs to worry about, so the primary concern was keeping the same color of windows throughout the home. The window companies were glad to give small color samples for comparisons.  My research taught me that there were primarily 2 colors of vinyl windows on the market: white and almond, with very limited variations. The reason for the limited choice has to do with thermal expansion, as color tinted vinyl windows result in too many warranty claims. (Wouldn't it be nice get brown, or wood-toned vinyl windows?)

I went with 3 different window manufactures, got the function I wanted and saved over a thousand dollars. I chose frames that all had a similar exterior reveal (similar frame widths). I also stayed with the same mullion pattern for every window.  Most of the interior sides of the windows were covered with curtains or blinds. After installation, I never gave any thought to the minor differences in the window constructions. Nor did I ever hear any comments about the window manufacture mix, just comments on the nice light.


How to fix my LED track lighting that is flickering?

If you look on the box/packaging that the LED bulbs came in, they will tell you the type of switch they require. Some LED bulbs work fine with CFL dimmers (which are the cheaper one's that some manufacturer's will say can dim LEDs) but the majority of 120v LED bulbs require an ELV dimmer.

Another thing worth noting is that a lot of smart dimming switches are rated for about 150W. Common LED bulb wattage is at around 9W. This means that switch will only support up to 16 bulbs.

And lastly, if you have any mixed bulb type/vendors on the circuit, it can also cause flickering/conflicts.


What do I need to know before taking the home owner's electrical test?

First this varies by municipality.  Almost all municipalities use a multiple choice test and mine did not.

I would say key things you should know:

Definitions.  You need to know what terms mean so that you can find the answer with the right context.
Understand the basic electrical equations.  Power, ohms, watts, cable requirements...
Understand what each section of the guide covers.
Understand how to properly find things using the gloassary.
Have a good understanding of basic electrical code.
Be good at math.  A lot of questions require math skills.
Understand how to diagram basic things like 3-way switches, laying out outlets in a room, a switched light, a ceiling fan with controls for light and fan, gfci switches...

Extra Note - I passed.  So if you have questions shoot me an email.


One fix is to go to the big box store and buy some short lengths of re-bar (the stuff normally used to reinforce concrete). You can get it in lengths like 2' or 3' or 4'.

The idea is to get the old timbers lined up as much a possible. That may mean having to dig away on one side if dirt has come down behind where you want to push the timber. Once you have things lined up you want to drill a hole in the center of the beam(s) from the top down trough. Then pound the re-bar trough the hole and down into the ground using a heavy maul or hammer. Sink the top end of the re-bar right down to the timber top so it is not sticking out. This will hold the timbers in alignment and in place due to the re-bar going down into the ground.

For best results you would want to keep the hole diameter only slightly larger than the re-bar. It does take a long drill bit to go through two or three timbers at once but you can find them. Look for the 4 or 5 foot flexible type that wiring installers use to drill holes inside walls.


Home Inspector reported two 20 amp breakers not allowed in panel per manufacturer?

One throw too far

Your meter-main was designed to use a set of smaller sub-main disconnects instead of a single main disconnecting means, in accordance with NEC 230.71:

  230.71 Maximum Number of Disconnects.

  (A) General. The service disconnecting means for each
  service permitted by 230.2, or for each set of service-entrance conductors permitted by 230.40, Exception No.1,
  3, 4, or 5, shall consist of not more than six switches or sets
  of circuit breakers, or a combination of not more than six
  switches and sets of circuit breakers, mounted in a single
  enclosure, in a group of separate enclosures, or in or on a
  switchboard or in switchgear. There shall be not more than
  six sets of disconnects per service grouped in any one location.

  For the purpose of this section, disconnecting means
  installed as part of listed equipment and used solely for the
  following shall not be considered a service disconnecting
  means:

  (1) Power monitoring equipment

  (2) Surge-protective device(s)

  (3) Control circuit of the ground-fault protection system

  (4) Power-operable service disconnecting means

  (B) Single-Pole Units. Two or three single-pole switches
  or breakers, capable of individual operation, shall be permitted on multiwire circuits, one pole for each ungrounded
  conductor, as one multipole disconnect, provided they are
  equipped with identified handle ties or a master handle to
  disconnect all conductors of the service with no more than
  six operations of the hand.

However, the pair of single pole breakers in the lower-right that the inspector complained about means that you need 7 breaker throws to turn all the power off, which is one too many.

Evict the aliens!

Furthermore, the culprit breakers are a violation by themselves as they are GE THQLs, which are not listed to go in an Eaton BR panel.  At this point, you might as well get a BR220 from the nearest supplier and have it slapped in in place of the culprits, killing two violations with one fix.

And yes, a two pole breaker can feed two completely separate 110V circuits

There is nothing in the NEC that prohibits a two pole breaker from feeding two independent branch circuits from the opposite legs it provides.


Sounds Like: Waterlogged pressure tank, as per usual. No (or little) air, no (or little) pressure storage, since water does not compress.

With "modern" bladder-type tanks, that's usually a bladder failure, and usually time for a new tank. (In my personal experience, a tank with a replaceable bladder sounds nice, but does not pan out in practice: price of new bladder, no warranty, almost equal to new tank, 5 year warranty. The whole tank is easier to change out than the bladder in many cases.)

You can make a temporary kludge on most tanks by draining the tank, pumping it up (probably to 37 PSI assuming a normal 60/40 pressure switch - in any case 2-3 PSI below the "cut-in" or pump start pressure) and then turning the pump back on. This will buy you some time until that air bubble dissolves (what the bladders prevent, when intact) to get a new tank - or, rarely, very rarely, to find that this isn't the problem at all.

"Why the wild pressure swings?" With no air to act as a "spring" the pump pumps up to 60 and shuts off, but using a very small amount of water drops the pressure and the pump kicks on, then shuts off, then kicks on - this is, by the way, bad for the life of the pump, which is one reason to get this fixed as soon as possible. With the air acting as a spring, several gallons of water are expelled between 60 and (typically) 40 PSI, then several gallons of water are added as the pump runs, then several gallons of water are expelled again. With a seriously waterlogged tank, it might be more like a 1/4 gallon between 60 and 40 PSI, and it drops to 10 before the pump manages to get started.


Do I need to plug my snow thrower to GFCI outlet?

I think your question is about safely using your snow blower with a non-GFI protected outlet. As a rule of thumb, any appliance used outdoors should be plugged into a GFI outlet. In your case specifically, I think you will find that your snow blower handles and controls are well insulated electrically from the source voltage and motor. The case is probably all plastic. The risk of shock is very low, but possible if you were handling the base unit for some reason. The proper answer would then be to always use a GFI protected power source for all items used outdoors.


Why doesn't my pressure relief valve work as expected?

Sounds like you need an expansion tank for the hot water system. When you heat water, it expands. If there's no place for it to go, the pressure will rise until something gives. You might also need to adjust (or replace) the thermostat(s) on the water heater.

A PRV acts also as a check valve so 60 PSI into the house going cold into the water heater can then become a much higher pressure when the cold water is heated, if no valves are open using water. The new check valve (which you call a regulator, but I'm betting it's not) does the same thing closer to the water heater.


Kitchen faucet leak worsened after O-Ring replacement

You might try calling Moen about it since their faucets carry a lifetime warranty. They would send you out a new o-ring at no charge.

The O-ring you got as a replacement may not be the correct size unless it came from Moen. If it is the correct size and the faucet leaks, then the faucet parts themselves may have worn out to the point that a new o-ring won't be able to fix the leak.


You cannot "split" your new outlet. It must all be constant-on or switched. As you suspected, you need to connect only one of the hots (probably the black) and cap off the other. Do not try to connect both. At best, you'll bypass the switch for everything. At worst, you'll trip a breaker or, if the breaker fails, start a fire!


The main grounding electrode conductor (the wire running to the cold water pipe) is required to be terminated with a ground clamp. Wrapping it around the pipe is not a good connection.

After fixing the ground clamp add an inter-system bonding block to the main ground wire (they sell these and the ground clamps at any big box store). It clamps onto the ground wire without cutting it. It will have a terminal strip for attaching the ground wires from your cable TV and the TV antenna. Attach those there. The cable TV isn't properly grounded either from what you said.

The TV antenna ground wire can't be smaller than #14 AWG copper wire.

This all in addition to the ADU that Tester mentioned.


Skim Coating: Steps? Weight of joint compound?

I've done a lot of skim coating, mostly on old plaster walls.

If you're thoroughly sanding the walls, using TSP is not necessary. Just vacuum and wipe the dust off after before you coat. If you're going directly over a painted surface then TSP or other cleaning is helpful.

I've used lightweight joint compound. I prefer the setting kind (that you mix from powder and sets after a fixed time) and find the 120min set to be easy enough to work with. Setting compound is incredibly sticky and provides a long-lasting finish.

Get yourself the right tools (esp. wide-blade knives) and give yourself some time/space to practice. It's an art.


Circuit breaker trips when ANY light switch on the circuit is turned on

First, all our answer rely on your claim that your breaker is "just like this one". That one is a CAFCI.  If your breaker is somewhat different, then all our advice is no good. The good news is Square D takes button color pretty seriously, and white-button Square D's should all be CAFCI.

Chasing an arc fault

Move through each of the switches, then receptacles, then lamps and check these things.

Ground wires touching screws.  Make sure that as the devices are pushed back into the box, you don't have a ground wire getting near a hot or neutral screw.

Backstabs.  Arc fault breakers were initially developed for electric blankets. But they discovered they were really good at detecting another wiring fault: Backstabs.  Backstabs are when you have #14 wire and you just jab it into the provided hole on the recep or switch. .  The mechanism is surprisingly hokey - after all you are getting 4 of these for 50 cents.  They regularly cause circuit burnout, and AFCI breakers are proving they cause a lot of arcing before they burn out.

So I recommend working through the switches and receps on that circuit. For each backstab connection, firmly pull and twist the device back and forth while pulling the wire steadily out (no need to waste wire length unless you have loads of it). Then move the backstab wire to the nearest screw.  If the screw is already occupied, someone is cleverly using that trick to do a splice, and you should pigtail those 2 wires together with a pigtail going to the switch.  I do not recommend getting any fancier than that, or else you need to take a crash course in replacing receptacles - issues like tabs broken off, 3-way terminal colors, all that jazz. It's way more complicated than it ought to be.

Wire nuts.  Bad wire-nut jobs are a common cause of arc faults.   First, are the wire nuts taped?  Exception: A wire nut on a single wire should be taped (otherwise the nut will fall off).

Tape on a wire-nut usually means the installer has learned that wire-nut connections will fall apart if not taped. That is because the installer's bad technique. The same thing that makes them fall apart also makes them arc.  So, the moment you see tape on a wire-nut, take it off.  Then, give the wire nut a "pull test".  Grab the nut proper and pull hard on each wire one at a time.  If the wire pulls out, that was a bodge job that needs to be re-done.   Make sure the bared section is at least 80% of the length of the wire nut and no more than 95%.  It will stick out initially, but get sucked in as you twist.

Wire length is precious - do not cut off the curly bits, just coarsely straighten them.  Put the wires back together with ends even.  Then put a new, good wire nut like an Ideal brand on it, and crank HARD, and clockwise - same as screws, bolts and nuts.   DO NOT pre-twist - if you are tightening hard enough, the wire nut will do that for you, believe you me!  If the wire nut is not twisting the wires, you're being way too much of a soft touch. This is one place where you want "gorilla tight, not monkey tight".

Now you do a pull test on it just like that, and it better pass with flying colors.  If not, refine your technique.

If you're having trouble getting multiple wires to stay even as you set them up, feel free to tape the wires together, say into 2 groups, about 2" back of the wire end, before putting them into the nut.  Then nut it, remove the tape and pull-test.


We brought in a couple heaters and set them to 26 degrees Celsius. We also kept faucets dripping "hot" (actually just cold) water. We additionally opened the water main access door and blew hot air into the walls, as well as heating up all our bathrooms with the vent fans on. This all happened for over 72 hours. A few hours ago, our hot water has been restored.