No sirree.  Nothing like that.

You may be familiar with ancient inductive ballasts where preheater 1, a starter, preheater 2 and an inductive ballast were all in series with line.  (and of course once the lamp strikes, it shorts out the starter and preheats, so now it's just the ballast and lamp in series, and the inductor limits current).  Those things predate this modern type of bulb.

Today, you will have electronic ballasts which intake 120V and output 4 wires to go to the bulb.  They do their magic electronic woo-woo inside the box, and synthesize high frequency (flicker-free) AC, doing a sequenced preheat start if needed for assured start in the cold.  These make sense because the silicon needed for the magic is cheaper than the mass of copper needed for a magnetic ballast.

Especially awesome are programmed start ballasts, which preheat the bulb exactly as much as it needs for a reliable strike at any temp, and very easy on the bulb.  That's the one to use for hard-to-change bulbs, or bulbs on motion sensors.

It's possible some very cheap lamp builder has found a way to wire those old-school, but I would not retain that design.  I would retrofit one of the electronic ballasts. In which case you wire it according to the wiring diagram on its labeling or instructions.


TRIACs do tend to wear out.  As they age, the waveform becomes more jagged.  Here is what a good TRIAC should do to the waveform when 50% dimmed:

Here is what a failing TRIAC might look like:

(That is actually the current of a CFL:  I couldn't find a failing TRIAC waveform.)

If it is failing, TRIACs seem to fail pretty quickly and enter an intermediate poorly-performing state for only a few hours or days.

You could unscrew one or two bulbs in the fixture and see if that improves the situation to isolate whether it is the bulbs or the dimmer.

For more details about dimmers, see this.


What could be causing my Thermostat "R" wire to only be 8 VAC?

I had a furnace guy come in the morning. He saw the furnace and said "Oh my god!"

After two hours he decided he couldn't figure it out and they sent another guy later that day.

They finally figured it out.

Since a guy who works with furnaces for a living couldn't figure it out after two hours I think I never had a chance to begin with.

So in the end, the answer was:

Call a pro.


Why am I getting a lot of condensation in new shed?

Because the roof is metal it will get cold and when the (relatively) warm damp air inside the shed comes into contact with it, condensation forms.

You need to make sure that there is a thermal barrier between the inside surface of the roof and the outside surface.

So any of the things you suggest would do, but might cause ventilation problems (say). So a false ceiling would probably work best.


Calculating Electrical Demand for New Construction with Electric Tankless Water Heater

200A Service is not nearly enough
When provisioning new service, by code, you're only allowed to plan to use 80% of the installed capacity.  On a 200A service, that's 160A, and when you deduct your 140A water heater from that, that leaves only 20A for the entire rest of the house, which isn't nearly enough.
Load calculations aside, you won't even be able to make dinner with only 200A.  Assuming either the AC or heat is on drawing 30A, and you have something in the oven, drawing 50A or so there, and then you turn on the hot water at the sink to rinse a dish, the water heater will draw 140A, for a total of 220A -- which trips the house's main breaker.
For a tankless hot water heater of this size, in a house with other standard loads, 400A service (sometimes called Class 320) is required, no way around it.
Or, use a water heater with a tank
A standard tanked resistive water heater only needs a 30A circuit, because it doesn't need to be able to heat the water as fast as it's used -- it can heat more slowly since it has a reservoir of hot water to supply for immediate needs.  This should likely fit in your 200A service without much issue.
If you want or need to draw even less power, then a heat pump water heater is the way to go.  They cost roughly 2-4x the price of a resistance heater upfront, but they use 3-4x less energy, so they tend to pay for themselves quickly -- if the same person buying the water heater is paying for electricity, which it sounds like is not the case for you.  But they also use less power, so if you're trying to fit everything in without needing a service upgrade, it's still worth considering.
Tanked water heaters can also be very useful when your cost of power varies throughout the day, either because you have free power coming in from solar panels, or because your utility charges higher rates during peak hours (which SMUD does).  Newer 'smart' tanked water heaters, (most commonly found on the heat pump kind), are aware of this, and will attempt to heat the water when electricity is cheapest, and save it for when you need it later, which tankless cannot do.
Another advantage of a tanked system in California is that during our increasingly frequent rolling blackouts, you'll still have hot water for a while when the power is out.  With a tankless, when the power is out, you're taking cold showers until it comes back on.
Consider planning for both options
You mentioned in a comment that you're planning to rent this place out, and as such the long term electricity costs are not a huge concern to you now -- but consider that you might want to sell the place someday, and your buyer may take a different view.  Since this is new construction, there are some things you can do very cheaply now that would be extremely expensive later, so it's worth thinking a little about future-proofing.  One of those things that's easy to add now and much harder later is a site for a hot water tank.
As of today, electric heat pump water heaters are the most efficient thing on the market, and are becoming increasingly popular.  Given the challenges the California electrical grid has had over the last few years, I would not be at all surprised if they become required at some point in the future.  IMO it would be a mistake to build a house today that was not compatible with one, even if you initially install something else.
On the other hand, if you do put in a tank system today, to easily let the next guy switch to tankless if they want (assuming they get the service upgrade), you can simply install an oversized conduit from the water heater to the electrical panel -- it'll only cost a few tens of dollars extra.


Does code require the gas line to be replaced when replacing a furnace?

Not necessarily.  Usually in these situations the existing infrastructure must be brought up to current code.   A licensed installer would not install the furnace without insuring that the supply and the exhaust were up to current standards.


What should I do about this vanity that won't sit tight to the wall due to trim molding?

If that leg can be unscrewed and moved over 1/2 inch, that would be my first choice. If not, then I'd get a coping saw and cut the leg to fit the trim.


cold water too hot in AZ—worth it to insulate attic copper?

This is the same theory behind insulating the hot water pipes in attics in cold climates (freezing concerns aside). It'll help but only for a little while. It might extend your hour-long window of continued cold water to 2 or 3 (or more) hours, but you won't keep cold water all day long.

If your attic is easily accessible, the pool noodle pipe insulation is cheap enough and easy enough to install for this to be a good trial. Not much lost if it doesn't work out. If that trial goes well, then you'll want to consider if more expensive solutions are worth the time and effort to install.


Do cracks in softwood boards indicate structural problems?

Of course the splits (“checks”) will affect the performance AND strength of the wood.
Wood is a product of nature, it’s not manufactured so there will be imperfections in the wood. Wood shrinks more “across” the grain rather than than the length of the grain. So you are seeing the checks developing in each piece of wood.
Your wood is to be used for deck boards, so the material will remain outside AND will continue to shrink and split. It will not substantially affect the strength of the wood to the point that it will NEED to be replaced. However, it will become increasingly unsightly and the checks will get larger (longer and wider).


Dimmable LED lights on a dimmer switch, they won't come on at all anymore. Do they still work?

Are they salvageable at all? Have I just ruined two otherwise perfectly good LED lights?

No, they are not salvageable.  Yes, you have just ruined two otherwise perfectly good LED lights.

Dimming, with a non-LED compatible dimmer or with non-dimmable LED lights, is not good for the lights. Dimming is not normally, as much as it might appear (and as I used to think) simply reducing the amount of current going to the lights. It is a bit more complex. LED lights (fluorescent too) can't simply take "any way of reducing the overall power" - they have to handle things in a special way or they will either die a painful death (as you found) or blink a lot - 50% on, 50% off = 50% light, but not in a terribly useful way.

Odds are if you had removed the lights right away after discovering the problem, they would be just fine today - the electronics are actually fairly resilient. But using them over an extended period time with a mismatched dimmer doomed them.


Temporarily relocating an electrical panel while rebuilding a room

The only reasonable way I can think of is to buy an outdoor rated panel and put it on a wall outside right next to where you will be working, with some temporary duct work for the conductors going back into the house. You will at some point need to call your utility for a disconnect / meter pull to move the main conductors, but wait until the last minute for that and be totally ready for it first.


Classic "lost neutral"

They are different, but add up to around 240v... That is the classic symptom of a loose or open neutral in your cable or more likely, its terminations.

Hot to hot, the voltage is 240V.  You have two sides of 120V with neutral in the middle.  If the neutral is working, it forces each side to 120V.  If the neutral is lost, then the two sides are simply in series, and they will add to "whatever" based on the loading on each side.

This can be quite destructive to equipment and even start a fire.   I would shut off everything (240V-only loads are OK) until you can fix it.

Also, if one terminal is failing, possibly others are too.  When you find the problem, check the two hots and ground also.

Or it could be no neutral

In older installations, we sometimes see really dumb setups like 2-wire 120V circuits converted to 240V by trying to use the local ground rod as the neutral.  This doesn't work. Dirt doesn't conduct electricity very well. It can't function as a "current return".  This acts like a "lost neutral", energizing the neutral and the ground to hazardous voltages. Not good.  In this case, it might have been like this all along and you only just noticed, or soil conditions changed where it's not returning as well as it used to.

This entire type of setup needs to be taken out of service ASAP.  Convert it to 120V only, convert it to 240V-only (no neutral in use - easier than ever now that many lights are 120/240/277), or use a transformer to convert it into its own main service.


Should a bathroom fan vent to a separate duct system?

A bathroom exhaust fan should vent directly outside with its own dedicated duct, for exactly the reasons you are stating.


GFCI 20 amp breaker pops....regular plug works

You don't need another GFCI, just put a regular receptacle here

The breaker's a GFCI already (between the TEST button, and 680.71 requiring GFCI protection for the existing tub), so you don't need another GFCI device to add to the confusion.  Simply put a regular 20A receptacle in with a "GFCI Protected" label on the faceplate, and you should be fine provided the GFCI breaker trips when you push its "TEST" button.


One of the pros will give a long detailed answer, I'm sure.

But the short answer (from reading all their long detailed answers over many months) is that provided the existing panel is in decent shape, you can replace an existing double-pole breaker with a bigger breaker for a subpanel and use that subpanel to power several circuits, as you described.

However, you should put in a really big panel - i.e., big enough that it can eventually be your new main panel. A big (like 42 space) panel might cost you an extra $100 or $150 now compared to a small panel, but will allow you to gradually move circuits over time. Moving all those circuits is the big cost, particularly if you use the opportunity to add GFCI and/or AFCI as appropriate. But this way you don't have to spend it all at once. Then once you have everything moved you make the subpanel into your main panel, add a neutral-ground bond, and get rid of the old main panel.

Since you said "I am maxed out on breakers, as every 110v breaker is now a tandem breaker.", there is no way you can add GFCI or AFCI breakers right now. While you can add GFCI at the first receptacle in each chain and get full protection, and you can add AFCI in a separate box, it is a lot easier to put in breakers. Code generally allows you to keep the old stuff as-is, but for safety's sake, as well as if you do other upgrades (e.g., bathroom or kitchen remodel), you may want and/or need to make those upgrades at some time. With a new larger (sub)panel, you can do that easily. If the existing cables won't quite reach, you can splice them inside the existing panel, with that panel eventually becoming a large junction box when the the subpanel becomes your main panel.


Good technique to trim 2mm or 1/16inch off 2x4 (without a drop saw)

A block plane will do the job - end grain is their forte. Needs to be sharp, like you may never have seen sharp, if you have not used planes before.You'll also want to set the one you are shortening up against a scrap piece so that the plane does not tear-out as it leaves the edge of the board. Just let it stick out a millimeter or two beyond the supporting scrap.


These appear to be rust stains.  I've had reasonable success with a product called Wink:
Wink on Amazon
there are also similar products that may be as effective but I have not tried them personally.  I do know that chlorine bleach does not work on these.
Be VERY careful with this product, however.  It contains HFl (hydrofluoric acid) which is nastier than HCl (hydrochloric acid).  Always follow the instructions carefully!


Can I use spackling to repair this damage between wall and celing?

Forget the spackling.

Fiber joint tape should never be used in a corner - use Paper Joint Tape instead. It has a seam down the middle, so you can fold it into the corner.

Scrape out the old joint tape, removing any loose compound along the way. Ensure both surfaces are securely attached, to their framing members. Sand any high spots if needed and apply paper joint tape in it's place.

You can use an Inside Corner Trowel to aid in making a smoother joint, while having fewer steps between coating and drying.

If it is a long run, you don't have to do it all in one shot either.

90 minute Lightweight Setting-Type, works great for repairs like this, due to a stronger joint, and quicker turn around while working. You just mix up what you need, and as long as you keep the remaining unmixed powder dry, you can store it for quite a long time.


How do I attach twist straps to rafters along the top plate?

Just tap the toenails in deeper. Use a finer tipped chisel if you need to. Then attach it as the engineer has specified.

Even if the wood is rather old, the direction of the force that the nails and bolts are acting in shouldn't rip it apart. It'd be noticable if it was dangerous from your photo and that's not the case.


To bring the issue to a conclusion I ended up bringing in a plumber.  It took him about ten minutes with a powered auger to locate the partial blockage in the pipe.  The blockage was located about 12 feet into the pipe.  It was an expensive resolution for 10 minutes work but at least the issue has been resolved.  I will perhaps purchase a better auger so as to deal with future issues.  Thanks to all that gave suggestions on how to deal with the issue.


How can I deal with a heat pump condenser producing lots of water?

Heat Pumps are basically where you reverse the process of cooling in your HVAC. Normally your compressor takes the expanded hot refrigerant and runs it through the coils to cool it down, before sending it into the compressor, where it's compressed and piped into the blower, where it's allowed to expand (gasses cool as they expand) and become hot.

A heat pump reverses this process by sending the compressed refrigerant back through the coils. So your coils are expanding the gas and thus cooling the outside to bring heat inside. What you're seeing is the normal byproduct of this process: condensate. In many cases, this is actually a defrosting because the outside coils get pretty cold (and North Florida has been saturated with rain of late so humidity is quite high).

The only thing I could think of to control this would be to install a water heater pan underneath and pipe the condensate elsewhere. You'll need to probably build something else to hold the unit in place, since it's screwed to the pad.


Adding electrical service to detached garage

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "neutral and ground to be isolated" but it's my understanding that they should always be connected so that there is zero potential between them.

My understanding is also that only connection between neutral and ground should be at the main panel.  If you connect the neutral to the ground in a second location (the garage) then you'll create a "ground loop".

I'm not an electrician and it's been about 10 years since I read the electrical code so I could be mis-remembering.


Is it better to waterproof a basement from the outside or the inside?

When applied correctly, I prefer waterproofing from the outside.  It keeps the water out of the concrete, rather than permeating up to the interior water proof layer. If it's allowed to freeze in the foundation, you could have cracking.

In addition to water proofing the foundation, you also want a weeping tile or French drain around the foundation anywhere that water may not naturally run away from the home.

That said, as you're seeing, fixing this issue from the outside can be much more difficult, and therefore expensive. Another factor is if you need to use a sump pump to move water from any drains up and away from the home. If that's the case, you also need to consider if you want this pump indoors or outdoors.


Condensation
Some part of the circuit - a receptacle, switch, or junction of some sort - has a very minor ground fault. It is OK when warm and dry. When the air cools at night down to the dew point, water condenses. It bridges the ground fault and enough current flows through to trip the GFCI.
With one quick search, I found a current dew point in Bangkok of 60 F. It will vary a bit by day, time and location, but that isn't far off from the 68 F you noted.
The only solution is to check every single junction in the problem circuit. In particular look for any bare wire (except grounds), loose wire nuts or signs of corrosion. You can rule out, initially, any light fixtures, since you have the problem even when they are off. However, wires often go through those boxes on the way to other parts of the circuit, so the problem may be there too. You may have multiple sources of the problem, though since all your other circuits are OK, there is a good chance there is just one problem area.


I fail to see a problem here. Increasing the discharge pipe diameter does not increase the load on the pump. Unless you have a pump manual that specifically forbids this (which seems very unlikely) relax and stop worrying about it - or worry about the battery running out, which is far more likely to be a problem in any extended power outage.

If you have such an unlikely manual, replace the pipe that offends you/it.


When building drywalls with suspended ceiling do I need wall height to actual ceiling?

If sound proofing is your primary concern then you should build the walls all the way up to the roof, past the suspended ceiling.  You should insulate the walls with sound-dampening insulation. If you are willing to spend more money and time, you should look into isolating channels that the drywall attaches to.  This prevents sound from being carried through the walls and studs (normally sound hits drywall and vibrations are carried through the studs to the other side.  The isolating channels prevent this).

I do not think a suspended ceiling will be able to hold the weight of the insulation.  As well, usually a big benefit of a suspended ceiling is easy access to the plenum space above for running wires, accessing hvac/plumbing/fire equiptment, etc.  If you have insulation on top, everytime you need to take a panel out, you'd also have to take out a lot of insulation. It would also be hard to get it back in properly after removing only a single tile.  The tiles themselves should help eliminate the echo.


Can I use a different type of bolt for awning?

That type of bolt is made for use in brick or concrete. You would drill a hole just large enough for the sleeve to slide into. When tightening the bolt in place the sleeve crinkles at the end this tightly jamming the sleeve against the edges of the hole.
You can still remove the bolt leaving the sleeve in the hole. Even if you were able to remove the sleeve you would still have the hole left so it should be of little consequence if the sleeve is left behind.


What conductor and burial depth are appropriate for my garage subpanel circuit?

PVC is inexpensive conduit, which can be good, but it requires an expensive trench (whether or not you are in Kentucky) when running power.

More expensive Rigid or IMC steel conduit may let you have a less expensive trench, and also serves as the Grounding (not Grounded) conductor. You need 4 conductors for typical 120/240 USA/Canada service - Two Hots, one Grounded (Neutral), one Equipment Grounding Conductor (which can be the conduit for steel conduit. Otherwise, it's 4 actual wires.)

The minimum cover requirement (general) is 6" for Rigid or IMC, and 18" for NMC (that is, PVC or other non-metallic conduit.) That is from the surface to the closest part of the conduit (not the bottom of the trench, the top of the conduit.)

Depth can be reduced by adding concrete on top. Depth increases (generally) for running under driveways, though for "one or two family dwelling driveways used only for dweling related purposes" it remains at 18" for NMC (but it increases to 18" if using rigid or IMC.)

Using cable (rather than individual conductors) inside conduit is madness, generally speaking, as it's very hard to pull and greatly increases the size of conduit you need for the fill calculations. If you want to "add protection" use only schedule 80, no schedule 40, and carefully backfill with sand or finely screened material around the conduit rather than pushing dirt/rocks back on top of the conduit. Or contemplate concrete cover, and save on the trench depth.

Add a separate communications conduit (possibly empty at present, but so handy if you ever run network wire or fiber) while you have a trench open, and be sure to place "buried electric line below" tape in the top 6" of the trench.

As for wire size, it depends on what you would actually like to allow for - if only 60A service, 3 gauge aluminum would be adequate and far cheaper than copper - 2, 1, or 1/0 would allow more amperage if desired at some point in the future (or now, since it's cheaper in the long run to simply buy a bigger panel once, than to buy a smaller panel and replace it with a bigger panel later.) The amperage draw of your air conditioner may be a deciding factor, and you have not provided that information - if it uses potentially 30 amps and you want a typical "shop service" of 50-60 amps available without having to worry about whether the air conditioner is running, you might want to plan for 100 amps to be safe. If it's only 15 amps, that might not be as much of a concern, or you could go for 75 amps (but it's an odd size - a 100 amp panel may be cheaper, due to volume of sales.)

For the average home electrical worker, I think it's safest to run all the wire, then hire an electrician for a short stint actually making the aluminum connections - the newer alloys are not the scary stuff the old 10/12Ga aluminum was, but it's still a bit of a process connecting them properly, and experience in doing that is worth paying a pro to do, in my opinion. If not, read up carefully on the proper procedure and follow it, including joint goop, stainless steel brushes, and using a torque wrench on the connecting bolts.

2 inch schedule 80 provides plenty of room for 4 1/0 conductors. You can downsize the grounding conductor and possibly get down to an acceptable fill for 1-1/2", but it will be a miserable pull, so I'd stick with 2 inch and a comfortable pull. If going with 2 or 3 AWG, 1-1/4 inch would do, but 1-1/2 inch (or 2 inch) would be easier.  Your grounding conductor only needs to be 6 or 8 AWG aluminum for 100 or 60 amp service (i.e. 3x 1/0 and 1x 6AWG is perfectly acceptable for 100 amps.)


How do I snake this dual-sink configuration?

Get two bladder-style drain cleaners.

Insert one down each sink. Turn them both on simultaneously and they'll inflate until they block up the sinks, at which point they'll fill the plumbing in between the two and use pressure to push the blockage down the only remaining path.

If this drain proves to be problematic in the long-term, then you'll have to modify the plumbing. But there's no reason not to try the simplest solution first!


Building a New Wall with Projector Niche

This looks like a fun project.  I want to start by linking a few great books I own and like.  They're well-illustrated and you can find them in many home improvement stores & libraries.  These will really help you a lot since you are new to framing and maybe electrical as well.

Codes for Homeowners
The Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings
The Complete Guide to Finishing Basements
The Complete Guide to Wiring

Existing wall demo?
With that said, personally, I would demo the existing wall rather than leave all that drywall & electrical inaccessible.  I'm not aware of any requirement to remove the old wall; it's just what I would do.
Framing lumber choice
You mentioned using 2x6 framing lumber to build the new wall.  That is unnecessary; you can use 2x4.  Your new wall should be secured to the "ceiling" (really, joists or blocking above the ceiling) and the floor.  It doesn't necessarily need to be in contact with the foundation wall or the existing finished drywall (even if you don't demo it.)  Therefore, the extra depth of 2x6 lumber is not beneficial.
You ask, What’s the best way to secure the new beams to the old beams?. Both the "Basements" and "Walls & Ceilings" books cover this with illustrations.  But basically, there should be joists above the existing ceiling, and you want your new wall to be secured to them.  If they run parallel to the new wall you might add some "blocking" between two joists and then nail your new wall to the blocking.  The pictures in those books will help a ton.
Saw choice
A circular saw is a good choice and a great "first saw" for someone getting into serious DIY projects like this one.
You won't need a table saw for this.  A miter saw might be helpful for a few cuts when you're ready to install new baseboards, chair rails, or other trim; but don't buy a huge 12" miter saw; consider renting one unless you're sure you will use it again.  They take up a lot of space.


Adding blocking between joist to support column?

This is the reason for the blocking:

"additional vertical members (2x4's) to carry the load from the beam
up to another load bearing object above the floor (e.g. a new column)"

In other words, it's a complete load path from the beam to the foundation

if it's the later, what's benefit using the block to support the
column? wouldn't be better for the column to go straight down through
the subfloor and rest directly on the existing beam?

Depends on what you mean by better.
Better related to the load path? Yes, in that all the pieces will be imperfect and have a little gap between them that has to close up before the load is applied. Note that wood has more strength along the grain so install the wood blocking vertically, not horizontally as most other blocking.
Better related to buildability and cost? No. It is done this way for a reason. It is much easier and therefore faster and keeps costs down.
This is an extremely common detail and if you're architect and engineer are doing their job correctly, then there are no issues.


What causes burn marks on the air handler in the attic?

The burn marks on the air conditioner air handler are from the torch the installer used to solder the copper pipes to the unit. The pipes then go the compressor located outside the unit.

Most installers can do this job without scorching the unit.


Replacing old 2-pole line volt thermostats in a 120V hydronic heating system - is this configuration safe and acceptable?

Your idea probably won't work correctly to begin with
Your proposed setup probably won't even work quite right, whether you use old-style mechanical thermostats or new-style "smart" thermostats.  With two-pole mechanical 'stats (such as the Honeywell CT410B), only one pole is thermostatic as a general rule, with the other pole simply being a disconnect.  As a result, you'd get improper operation, either with all the fans running when any thermostat calls for heat or the circulator running if any of the thermostats are switched on despite a lack of heat calls.
Smart thermostats, unfortunately, fare no better on this front; some use TRIAC controls similar to light dimming, and won't work for this anyway, but even those that use relay switching likely only thermostatically control a single pole, with the other pole switched by a mechanical ON/OFF switch.  (At least, that's the case for the Lux PSPLV512 I was able to find a manual for -- as is typical for "smart" gadgets made by gadgetmakers who think that they know better, the documentation for the thermostat you linked is terribly insufficient for me to determine if your choice of thermostat actually will work for this application, but I doubt it.)
Better plan: use some relays
A better idea would be to use single-pole thermostats in the hot wire, along with simple relays for controlling the circulator pump from the individual fan-coil thermostat signals.  This way, you get proper thermostatic control of all the parts involved, without any worry about "backfeeding" of voltage into places you don't want it to go.  You'll want UL-listed relays with 120V coils and enough HP rating to control your circulator; for fractional horsepower circulators, a set of RIB2401B relays will do the job for sure (they're rated for 1HP at 120VAC), but lesser-rated relays will work as long as they're big enough for the circulator load.  Each relay has its coil connected across the corresponding fan, with the common terminal on each relay connected to 120VAC and the NO contact on each relay feeding the common circulator bus.


Can anyone tell me what kind of hinge this is?

I know it as a butler's tray hinge, or drop-leaf hinge.


Why is my new garage door going through lights so fast?

Vibration is still a good guess. Try a "rough service" bulb, usually sold for the work lights that you hang under the hood of your car.

You can also try a 130V bulb; cheaper bulbs are rated at 120V, and so don't tolerate line voltage fluctuations as much.

Another option is an LED bulb. A 40W-equivalent is in the $10 range, and they are supposed to be very vibration resistant.


Generally, it's safe to be in an attic with fiberglass insulation without a mask. Is it a good idea? No. It can get into your lungs and cause the coughing you're experiencing and can also irritate your throat. the coughing you're experiencing is probably a combination of the fiberglass and the dust that settles from the venting of the attic. Do yourself a favor and wear a mask.

@Chris Rodgers mentions about how much stuff adheres to a mask after just a short while and that reminded me of a photo I took last year after being in my attic for about an hour installing a whole house fan.


I see no problem with them being located next to one another. They both need to be serviceable and they both need adequate combustion air.  And proper venting for both.


Can I add a second thermostat in my basement for more control?

The other issue will be that if the temperature sensor is in the basement, the upper part of the house may get too warm by the time the furnace displaces all of the cold ait in the basement. Remember, warm air RISES, so if your return air resister is not in the basement, it will be a long time before there is enough air exchange to make a difference down there.

What I would do (have done) is to add a baseboard heater as a supplemental system, with its own thermostat in the basement, along with a way to keep the basement air from rising out of the basement (i.e. stairwell door).


Is it ok that the drain line for a septic system is above ground?

It would seem strange that the waste drain pipe goes straight out of the house above ground to the mound.  The primary purpose of the mound is for the distribution of water after it has passed through an enclosed septic tank and a pumping tank.  These two chambers are normally underground.  The pipes from the pumping stations would also be underground up to the mound and still would be buried in the mound as it travels to the top of the mound to the water distribution pipes.
I would have the owner explain where the septic tank and pump tanks are located and why the pipes you see are above ground.
Photos and more details on the pipes would be helpful.  Are these pipes on the surface of the ground?  What is the distance from house to mound?
Is it OK, depends on whether a fully functional septic system has been installed.


How to deal with the stress of DIY renovation?

Working on a house that you're already living in is a lot more stressful, because you're living in a construction zone.  Here are a few tips:

Select a part of the house to be construction-free. Your family can be comfortable in that space while other parts are in chaos.
Clean up at the end of each day. This will make the construction space less stressful.
Get help, so you can get the job done sooner, which means less stress. Sometimes that means hiring a crew to hang and tape drywall, much faster than I could do it. Sometimes it means hiring a handy acquaintance to work with me.
Break the project down in to smaller pieces, so you can carry a subproject to completion before introducing new chaos. This isn't always doable, because of interdepenencies, but do it when you can.
Keep an eye on the well-being of your family and be ready to adjust your project expectations to care for their needs. Family is more important than house.
Get out of the house. A picnic together can help you reconnect. Send the spouse and kids to grandma's for a week while you get a lot of work done. And so on.


Two main things worth checking come to mind.  The first is that the counter-balance weights are properly secured to the outside of the drum.  Sometimes these loosen up and make all sorts of weird and wonderful noises.

The second is that the bearings have failed.  The screeching noise you mentioned would make this more likely.  If the bearings have failed it is a very significant and costly repair - often the solution is to just replace the machine.

Either way I would recommend removing the top and front panel of the machine and running it to see if you can visually identify any problems.


Smoke from the fusebox switch but everything seems be working

Some termonolog may be in order, your service panel or breaker panel is where you installed an arc fault device? Don't know of any fuse box versions. Did you have the breaker turned off when you snapped it in? A load on a breaker when inserted can cause an arc flash with smoke and maybe minor damage to the buss or breaker. Since things now work it may be fine but I would want to inspect the buss and contacts on the breaker if all looks good it may have been a minor arc that did not cause harm that would make it unsafe.


To remove the part will be tedious, but it may be possible. The bolt that does the securing may be 1/4" or larger? Take a drill bit that is dull for drilling metal that is slightly smaller than the tapped hole in the cone to auger what dust you can. The idea here is to create a small cavity under the cone for water applied through a syringe, the type for applying glue in tight spots, for example, to swirl and loosen the dust under the rest of the cone. That done, after the water runs clear, insert the bolt just enough to engage a few threads and tap the cone down into the flushed out void. Then using a drill bit large enough to drill through the bulk of the sleeve and if needed the cone too, run it into the hole, and drill out what metal you can. You will need a sharp bit for this, but it won't be after you are done possibly.
With luck, the drill will grab the insert at some time during the drilling and start it to spin in the hole, then with it hung up on the drill from spinning and while it is spinning, withdraw the insert. At worst, drill it all the way out so much it will collapse and fall apart in the hole.


Is it OK to have a GFCI downstream of a standard circuit?

Yes you can certainly do this. Other options include replacing any outlet upstream with a GFCI, or replacing the breaker with a GFCI breaker. In both these cases, the entire circuit would be protected.


TL;DR: That is a Hunter Original Hanger Bracket, which consists of a rubber bushing and U bolt rocker assembly. Your option #2, drill box and attach through, is the correct installation: you just need a drillable box.

That hanger design is (a) meant to work with an outlet box and (b) to be mounted directly to the joist. Huh? How does this work? Here is an image of the original installation instruction:

Per those instructions, the installer is meant to drill through the box, attaching the lag screws into the joist behind the box. Modern boxes may not accommodate that drilling, but I believe an older Bell round box would work:

If you want this code compliant for today, you can't alter the box, so you can't install this as it was meant to be: thus replacing the fan is the only compliant choice. If you want something safer, but not modern code compliant, hunt down a vintage box or have one fabricated or "just make one work": the important points safety-wise are (a) getting the wires in a box and (b) securing the fan to the joist.

Those are solid fans. I would keep it if possible.

Note I am not affiliated with either of those eBay sellers linked to the images.


Is It Okay to Connect Two Water Heaters in a Series (so that water from one flows into the other)?

Yes you can do that but it will be highly inefficient.  A single larger tank is more efficient than two smaller ones with the same total capacity.  This is because they have more surface area between them for heat to be lost from.
So install a 50 gal. tank.  You might consider an on-demand/tankless heater for your tub needs.  That way you will have all the hot water you want when you fill it but won't be paying for holding a large quantity of hot water on the chance you might use it.


Why isn't my heat pump system kicking out cool air this year?

If both your central air handling fan and outdoor compressor are running and your not seeing any sort of cooling after a 10-20 minutes than I'd venture a guess and say it's time to call an AC repair service.

I'm curious what you are pushing in that makes the compressor turn on? Are you somehow bridging the main capacitor? Capacitors tend to be a common point of failure on AC units and can actually be changed fairly easily. Here is a pretty good article detailing the steps to do so.

To be honest though I'd guess that the bigger problem is the fact that you can get it running and it still isn't putting out cold air. The whole situation sounds like it's low on coolant (have you had it filled in the last few years?). AC's usually have a low coolant pressure switch that will keep the unit from running to prevent damage to the compressor when there isn't enough pressure.

Call an AC service out, many will diagnose your problem free of charge and be able to give you a much better idea of your problem. Be warned though, if your system is old and uses R-22 prices have shot up in the last year.


Can I reduce capacity of a water heater?

A larger tank does not cost more energy. The only thing that costs energy is when the water cools - and that depends only on the surface area, not the amount of water in the tank. (Mathematically volume increases by the 3rd power, but surface area only by the 2nd power.)

So to save energy add extra insulation around the tank. Reducing the amount of water in the tank will do nothing since it won't save all that much surface area (and potentially none at all).

(Yes, it takes more energy to heat the water in the first place, but after that it doesn't matter - and you already heated it.)


What lasts longer under the elements: polyester rope or galvanized wire?

Galvanized rope won't rust quickly at all the galvinization prevents rust from forming. Do you see any chain link fencing in your area it is similar but a larger wire size than the strands in 1/4 rope but this could provide an idea. Poly rope will break down from the UV light in sunlight it starts to "chalk" at first then the outer strands start breaking leaving sharp little wiskers. I hang electrical wires on galvanized rope all the time but would never use any kind of other rope as it won't last as long as the galvanized. Note if after you assemble your clamps you have scratched the wire you can use a Zink rich paint or a spray can of cold galvanizing spray paint on the hardware and it will outlast almost anything.


What size air hose would a mechanic's garage require?

You need to understand the pressure figures you are referring to. What you are probably referencing is the pressure rating of the reel units, this is the pressure they can operate at safely (without the hose bursting or some other unfortunate dangerous failure).

The air delivery capacity will be expressed by a quantity per unit of time, like "liters per minute" or "cubic feet per minute". Generally, larger hose can deliver more air and some types of tools need a lot of air (like rotary air tools). Can you find out what pressure he operates his unit at? If I were you I would default to the old idea that "bigger is better", or just ask him which one he would like. Most men very much appreciate nice tools for gifts, whether or not it is a suprise.


Why is there an extra plastic container in my toilet tank?

I believe that you are correct and that the container was added to reduce the amount of water used per flush. As for whether it will affect your fix - it might. If the tank is leaking then unless it is cracked then there are only two places that it could be leaking from - where the inlet connects to the tank or where the tank connects to the bowl. If it's leaking from the inlet valve then the container would have no effect other than giving you less space to work. If it's leaking form the spud washer (the rubber gasket between the tank and bowl) then you may need to remove it to get to the bolts that hold the tank to the bowl (though it appears that the container has indentations that go around the bolt heads so again it may just come down to the only effect being a more cramped space to work).


If it's the toilet itself, you'll see water on the floor around the toilet -- water will leak from the union of the tank (backrest) and the bowl. Make sure that the tank is attached tightly to the bowl (bolts are under the joint) and that it cannot rock.

If it's the seal or the plumbing beneath it, you will see water flowing from underneath. You'll need to replace that drywall under the toilet and get it all dried out anyway to prevent mold, so you might as well pull it down.

Wax seal rings are cheap, and unless the water is coming from the tank or you see a cracked pipe in the floor, are probably what you're going to need to replace. Just go to your local home improvement store and get a "Wax Ring Kit" and you should be good to go.


How much weight can I hang from a drywall ceiling?

Ideally this should be screwed/anchored into a joist for maximum support. However, if you really want to use a drywall anchor, you should use a toggle bolt or a ceiling anchor.  Instead of just screwing into the wall, these expand to several times their size which gives you a good hold, especially when the force is pulling directly down.  10lbs might be pushing it though, it will depend on the thickness of your drywall and the overall condition.  The worst case is you just have to patch the hole and repaint; drywall is pretty forgiving like that!


How do I grind down #10 galvanized DeckMate Screws?

If it is only 50 screws, pull them out and replace them. Grinding them off would work too, but the ends that were cut would rust, if that makes difference. Besides the hash marks from the grinder may not be so appealing either.


What material to use to fill 4' x 4' window hole for soundproofing?

I recommend going to the home centers and purchasing a  4'x8'x2" sheet of expanded polystyrene.  This is a very good sound deadener. Cut it to fit tightly. It costs about $20.  It is also a great heat and cooling insulator.  It will totally block the light.  It is extremely light weight.  If you take care of it, it will last forever.  Easy to take in and out.  Easy to store.  Plug any cracks with rags and tissue paper.


The water should not be that high in the sump. It should be down to around the 2-3" level inside. This is what I'd call a safety margin which allows the pump time to rest should there be any sudden surge of water coming in from the drain tile or where ever else it might come in from (only other place I can think of off the top of my head would be the A/C drain, but you wouldn't get a surge from there). If a pump has to pump continually without resting, it will burn up the motor faster due to heat build up.

There are two things to test. First, find the float switch which should turn your pump on when the water gets deep enough (it should be a ball floating in the water somewhere, maybe under the drain pipes). Rattle it around and see if it will turn the sump on. If it was stuck under the pipe, it may just need to be dislodged. If you rattle it around and the pump does not kick in, it could just be bad float switch, which you can get a replacement for if the main power cord runs through the check ball cord (hard to explain, but there would be a plug within a plug as it plugs into the wall).

The second thing to check is if the pump itself is good (if the check ball does not turn it on). If there is the plug-in-a-plug situation as I described above, pull the two plugs out of the wall socket, pull them apart, then put the pump one (should look like a regular plug) back into the wall and see if the pump turns on. If it does, you can get a replacement float switch and you should be golden for the mean time. If it doesn't, you'll need to replace the pump.

Unless there is a longer manufacturer's warranty on a pump, you should replace them every two years anyway. I would bet this one has not been changed for quite some time. It gives a little piece of mind in doing so. As well, if you do not keep the maintenance up on your pump and the a flood ensues where the pump could have handled the difference, the insurance company might not pay for cleanup and repairs, so this maintenance item is a must in my house.


Is it safe to swap a 30A "Dryer Socket" with a 40A "Range Socket" if the breaker is 40A?

It appears to me that this cable has two insulated conductors for the two hot legs plus an uninsulated conductor to be used as a ground, i.e., it does not have a third insulated cable to be used as a neutral. The cable is wired to the receptacle using the uninsulated conductor as a neutral. This is not allowed by code.
This cable can legally supply 240 V, not both 120 V and 240 V. It is not suitable for any appliance which requires both 120 and 240 V. What are the requirements of your new range?
Unless your new range is a special design which requires only 240 V, you must replace this cable all the way back to the panel or subpanel if there is one. Look at the installation instructions for the range. It should tell you whether it requires a neutral. If it does, then you will need a new (4 wire) cable.
You could use a 3-wire appliance cord and plug it into this receptacle and the range would work perfectly, but if the range requires a neutral, then current will regularly be flowing in the uninsulated conductor. This is not allowed by code.
If the cable had 3 inslated conductors, you could use it as is or you could retrofit a ground, but you cannot retrofit a neutral.


Replacing hardwired fire alarms with 10 year sealed alarms

Bad idea.  Since the hard wiring was a building code requirement, a change could readily give your insurance company an excuse not to pay in case of a fire.

In addition your detectors are interconnected, so they all go off together.  Wireless connected models are not available with ten year batteries ( I wrote on this topic at http://www.squidoo.com/you-have-three-minutes-to-escape-linking-home-smoke-alarms )

Instead consider pairing new detectors with ultra long life 9V or AA lithium batteries: such batteries cost more but last longer. And it's worth highlighting: smoke detector electronics generally come with a ten year rated lifespan (dating to 2004, as you note, yours are due for replacement).

Perhaps part of the problem was detectors that eat batteries?  The hardwire alarm batteries only come into play when power is out: a two or three year lifetime for each battery is the minimum you should expect, even from a conventional alkaline.


i may have crossed some blackwires on a switch

You likely switched wires.  It sounds like the thee wire pairs consist of:

Power feed
Line to kitchen light switch
Line to basement light.

From your description switch was being used to bridge the power feed to the kitchen light using push in connection and the screw connection.  (This may not be to code.)

It appears the power feed and basement light are on the same side of the switch.  Try moving the wire on the screw to the other screw.  If this fixes things, the power feed is on the screw.


How to remove "metal" tile adhesive from backsplash area?

The amount of time and labor involved in removing adhesive would be extensive. Even if you get the adhesive off, you will likely damage the surface of the underlying drywall.

It may be much more efficient and effective to remove the drywall and replace with new.

Use of a heat gun is questionable. Heat could crack the nearby marble if held near it too long. It also can char the surface of the existing drywall, making it less stable for the next finish.

Asbestos is unlikely in a project done in the 80s. However, if the house is older, there could be asbestos covered pipes behind the wall surface from before the old reno. If you open the wall to replace the drywall, just be careful not to disturb any coverings on pipes.


The very cleverest thing to do is to take the bulb in the picture with you to the store so you can compare it with the replacements that they have on the rack.

It can be a good idea to place the bulb in some type of paper bag wrapped in a paper towel when you transport and handle it so in case there is an accident of some sort and it gets broken there is not glass flying all over your car or the parking lot.


What can I do to stop my fiberglass bathtub from squeaking?

It's not a great picture, but it looks like the tub is supported by wood and foam.  It's possible that the wood has rotted, or the structure that supports the wood has rotted or been compromised in some way.

You can spray foam under there wildly, if you want. But if the structure that will support the foam (and tub) is compromised, it's not going to do you much good.

You're going to want to get better access, and evaluate the structure.  The answer may be as simple as adding a few extra braces, or as complex as ripping it all out and replacing it.  Without a better look, it's impossible to say for sure.

Since this is a mobile home, it's not likely this is a botched installation. Instead it's likely due to age, wear and tear, and/or rot.


What can I do about my lawn growing unevenly/patchy?

This depends on the type of grass and other conditions where you live.  I live in Houston and have St Augustine grass.  The following are common for my conditions.

Take-All Patch (Root Rot) : Very bad! Not much known on how its caused.  The roots just rot away and not a lot you can do about it. If you can reach down and pull a little and the rots come up, this is probably what you have
Brownpatch : A fungal disease that is really not an issue this time of year. It usually is caused by too wet conditions and cold nights.
Insects (Cinch Bugs) : Really bad in the summer for lawns that are poorly watered.
Watering : maybe you have a sprinkler zone not working? But if you have several smaller dead spots then its probably not watering issues.

Maybe post some pictures.  Also you can take the pics to an independent nursery in your area and they might be able to help.  Big Box stores aren't much help, but a small nursery with knowledgeable people can help identify common problems in your area.

Have you applied any particular fertilizer lately?  Any other products ?

Remember, I only know St Augustine, so if you have something else the above might not apply.


Trying to figure out how this service panel is getting electricity

You will just need to shut off breakers to isolate each wire and check it for voltage.

Turn the main breaker off, and check the incoming lugs for voltage.  If present, then the power has not been "shut off".  With the breaker still off, check the lugs that attach to the sliver bars in the back of the panel.

If there is voltage on the bars, one of the breakers is "back feeding" voltage.  Turn the breakers off one at a time to see which breaker it is coming from.


Low water pressure in shower after turning off main

My guess is there is some debris have plugged the orifices. I would turn the water off pull the cartridge and try to high flow the lines to clear any debris out. In the past I have found rust & scale plugs blocking valves that worked great after flowing, don't forget to check the shower head itself if it has a screen that could be the location where it is plugged if only a shower head (no tub ).


Two things:

It allows room for the inlet(s) to the sump pit.  If the pit were too shallow the water might backup into the inlet pipe before the pump switches on.
It gives the pump a bit of "buffer" when you have sudden surges of inlet water.  If you didn't have that, it might overflow before the pump turns on and gets a flow going.

Also, check that your outlet pipe has enough capacity.  That might be the real problem instead of the pump.  You can only force so much flow through a small pipe.


42" Elevated Foundation Build in Coastal NC

So, if this is “What is the best foundation system?” I’ll give it a go...

Do not use soil for fill. Use evenly graded “crushed rock”.

You have fill tested to make sure it’s compacted to 95.% density. (You can’t get 100%.) Install it in 6” layers and compact as you go.

When you have that much fill, (over 18” or so) you need to use larger rocks to save money. I’d go with 6” minus. That means you’ll have big big rocks in the fill. By installing a 3” layer of 3/4” minus rock you’ll have a nice uniform layer for the concrete slab and rebar.

Yes you need a base regardless. Do not use wire mesh in your slab...there isn’t an adequate amount of rebar and the slab will crack. Use temperature steel. Do you know how to calculate the amount needed?

A vapor barrier may not be necessary , that high above grade. We’d need more info to decide.

Length of service by your termite treatment depends on strength, quantity, etc.

Btw, if you use 3,000 psi concrete, then by Code you’ll need it tested. Why not use 2500 psi concrete and skip the cost of testing?
Also, that high above grade, why not use wood framing and skip the fill, compaction, etc.?


That's a Poang.

The longer bolts (not screws) need a nut that has probably fallen out and got kicked under the sofa

The shorter bolts, used at the top of the armrest, probably screw into a threaded insert.

If this is problematic you can probably fit a T-nut (likely to be a metric thread)

While you are fixing this, you should tighten up the other bolts (as Ikea advise you to do periodically) or apply some non-permanent thread-lock fluid.

I have a couple of Poang disassembled in my garage, so I may be able to find out more later.


There comes a time when every do it yourselfer reaches the limit. In your case this may be yours. At some point the risk offsets the cost. Even with a forty foot ladder you will be working on the upper rungs. You will have a working range of a few feet on each side of the ladder. This means you will be moving the ladder 15 or 20 times. Unless you manhandle 40 foot ladders for a living it is a difficult and arduous task.  You may want to consider having the gutters evaluated. If you have large trees they may dropped leaves into you gutters. If they are clean now you may want to consider one of the many types of gutter- guard systems so they will stay clean.


This seems to be a design and/or shopping question, that is completely dependent on personal preference. You could trim the hole out with wood, some type of metal or plastic flange, some type of port hole from a ship (if you're going for a nautical theme), etc.

The options are only limited by your imagination.


crack in foundation wall, QUIKRETE Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement

If you already have purchased the product, you will have no choice but to work fast. You will definitely need to make more than one batch. Just get the new batch made as soon as you can, using more than one bucket if you need to save time from having to clean the mess of the first bucket.

I seen the method they prefer for small cracks, applying it by hand. I would suggest trying a masons slick

They come in various widths, from 1/4" to 3/4" and possibly wider. I would try a 1/2" to get the cement in the bottom of the cut and fill it up about halfway with the first mix and top it off with the next mixes. This tool may take some getting used to and you may be better off cramming it in by hand. But this is what I would at least try.


In the same situation , I put a receptacle in the ceiling fixture so T can simply plug in the new light and it would be easy to change fixtures in the future.


Does my toilet drain poorly because of bad venting?

It's a common misconception, but blocked vents do not cause slow drains. If you Google it, you'll find lots of incorrect information that completely ignore the physical realities of how a vent operates. The purpose of a vent is to prevent the P-trap from being siphoned, it is not intended to help water go down the drain any faster - in fact, a properly vented fixture  will actually drain somewhat slower than a fixture with no vent.
People often talk about a vent in the context of an inverted soda bottle analogy, likening the vent to putting a hole in the opposite side of the bottle so the liquid doesn't slowly "glug" out of the mouth of the bottle. That analogy is nonsense, because there is no such thing as a plumbing fixture with only one entrance/exit like a soda bottle - water going down your pipes does not need to "switch places" with the air ahead of it. Every plumbing fixture ever made has a separate inlet and outlet, and is already open to the air  at the inlet side, allowing the air to follow the water down the pipes. Adding or removing a vent does not change that at all - it is not analogous to adding a second hole to a soda bottle, as it's actually adding a third opening to the already two-ended plumbing system. A blocked vent could potentially contribute to slow drainage if the inlet side is also blocked and cannot let air in, but in that case, it's really the blockage in the drainage pipe that's the issue, which is only exacerbated by the blocked vent. I can't imagine a situation where water can go down the drain, but air cannot.
As an experiment, you can pour water into a sloped pipe and watch it drain as fast as gravity will carry it. Now add a T and a vent somewhere along the pipe, pour the water in again, and see that the vent does not slow the water at all. In fact, plumbing without a vent will drain slightly faster, as water accelerating through the pipes "pulls" the water behind it. Although a vent slowing the drain may seem counterintuitive, it makes sense when you consider that the purpose of the vent in the first place to to prevent the pipes from emptying completely! You can watch a video of such an experiment here - in a realistic setup with a drain, trap, and vent, blocking the vent actually makes the basin drain faster.
Any air that needs to be pulled into the pipe can be pulled in from the inlet - a vent would only help in draining a toilet, for example, if the lid forms an airtight seal around the bowl. The vent is just there to prevent a suction effect that would siphon the P-trap. Your venting may be done improperly, and it may cause different problems with your plumbing, but it is not the primary culprit of a slow drain. If anything, a blocked vent would result in a drain that is faster and smellier (due to the siphoned P-trap). Look for a blockage in the drain pipe, not the vent.


Using a 4 wire 240v 30A circuit to power a 2 wire 240v device

NEMA 14 is the universal donor

Your NEMA 14-30 connector is the type you want.  It has

neutral (white or gray, 120V to L1 or L2),
Safety Ground (green, green/ehite or bare, near 0V to neutral, near 120V to a hot)
both hots (any color yet unnamed, same color ok, black and red commonly, L1 and L2, 240V across them)

What voltage is this thing?

You need to look at the machine's nameplate and see what it actually is. What's more, get the manufacturer's instructions for the unit and see what it says.  It is illegal to connect it contrary to the manufacturer instructions, and that makes it illegal to fail to read them.

US-market large heaters (2000W and up) are made for 240 volts, needing to connect to L1 and L2.  They do not use neutral.   Many smaller heaters made for permanent installation are also 240V.

US-market small heaters are often 120V.  If they are 120V, they have a hot (either L1 or L2, never both) and neutral.

European and rest-of-world heaters are all 230/240V, because everything there is 230/240V.  Most will tolerate 240V because they're built to be compatible with the UK and some Asian nations which are 240V rather than 230V. Unlike us, they have 240V between hot and neutral.  They use brown for hot, and blue for neutral.  First, you must check the instructions or with the manufacturer as to whether they allow North American style hot-hot connections. If they do, connect brown to L1 and blue to L2, or vice versa.

You also connect a ground wire, always.  Doing it bare 2-wire is not allowed, unless the heater is listed as double-insulated, which it will say rather directly if it does, because they had to pay a lot of money to have it certified as such.  Don't assume this.

Cord-and-plug connected, or hard-wired

You can only go cord-and-plug if it makes sense for the thing to be portable. But then, you can fab it yourself.  You need to visit a real electrical supply house and obtain proper cordage, which is special electrical cable made to be a cord. The size of the required wire depends on the rating of the heater.  Then you need proper strain relief on the appliance end, and a good fitting plug on the wall end.  Getting right stuff that matches is the reason to go to a proper electrical supply; they can do it; big-box can't.

If it's hard-wired, you will need to go to your town and pull a permit, then have it inspected when you're done.  If you're not super good at this (and you aren't yet), the second one may be the way to go, because a set of smart eyes will look it over for you.  On the other hand, if you're doing something you should not, he can shut the whole thing down.  Also in most jurisdictions you must hire an electrician for units you are renting out, or if you have been banned for being really bad at it.

If you hardwire it, you need to run 10 AWG wire, since your circuit breaker is 30A.


Many devices will draw a slightly larger load at startup, especially if there are motors involved (ie. fridge/freezer compressors). But even computers will draw more at startup due to all of the devices initializing.

Likely you are very close to the max capacity of that breaker, and on startup you are exceeding it hence why it trips.

The way to resolve this is to move loads to other circuits, or have an additional circuit installed.


how to flush sediment out of my water pipes

There isn't an easy solution for this.  Normally if you think there is a huge sediment problem then you need to contact local water company.  They will probably unhook your meter and then cut your pipe somewhere near where it enters your house.  They will then used compressed air to blow all of the sediment out.

My local water company had to do this a few years ago.  I noticed a huge decrease in pressure after they did some "construction".  It took them about an hour and there was a noticeable difference.  Now if there is sediment (less common) in the pipes in your house this is the same process except much harder.

Basically you have to isolate each branch and clear the branch of water.  Then you need to make sure there are no filters anywhere that would catch the sediment.  Means taking out shower head, disconnecting all sinks (hoping you have shut-off valves), taking filters out of shower valves... It would be an all day project for a plumber and there might not be that much gain.


Water turns cold after water heater circulation pump is off

Your expectation is correct, once the warm water is flushed you should then have hot.
There are 2 types of recirculating systems one one uses the cold line and has the pump and check valve (I believe this is the type you have) in a recirculating system on the cold line if the check valve fails it ends up being a mixing system.
A 3 line system has a separate line the hot is recirculated on the second line so it would not be long even with a failure until all the water in both lines was hot.
So check your pump system as I believe the valve is allowing the hot to mix with the cold while in use and that should not happen.


Power cycle needed for garage door to work

Probably a bad controller board - whether the better option is a new controller board (lower cost, generally no guarantee) or a new garage door opener (comes with a guarantee) is a call you'll have to make. Put a surge suppressor on the outlet feeding it - they are highly computerized these days.

Given the evidence of damage/malfunction, you should also test the operation of the safety devices - does the door stop and/or reverse when the "electric eye" sensor beam is broken while it's closing, and does it stop AND reverse if it hits a 2/4 laid flat (a 1-1/2" thick obstruction) laid on the floor when closing? If not, you should definitely disconnect it and replace either the controller board or the whole opener ASAP - with the safety devices malfunctioning, garage door openers do kill people, children, pets...

The opener I have replaced the controller on operated nearly normally, but I noticed that it was trying to drive the door through the floor of the garage after it was done closing, and when trying to adjust that I noticed that it no longer passed the safety tests above. Lightning had struck a nearby tree and evidently caused enough of a surge to damage the controller.


You've identified the mains supply wires feeding the transformer's primary -- the black and the white wires marked L1 and L2 (the latter is actually better labeled neutral). The label on the transformer is visible (PRI 120V).
The two transformer secondary wires aren't visible in the photo. They are two of the three wires that need to go to the thermostat. You should be able to see these secondary wires coming off the transformer and one of them already connected through to the red or the white thermostat wire. The other transformer secondary wire is your C wire.
I have a hunch that your R and W wires may be reversed. R is the one that should go to the transformer's secondary. With the old thermostat the positions of R and W didn't matter, but with the Nest thermostat it does matter. If you do find that W connects to the transformer and R disappears elsewhere then simply swap the two.
Edit: Additional info in a comment confirms the R and W are backwards according to modern convention. Try the following:

Swap the R and W thermostat wires -- R would connect to the yellow transformer secondary; W would connect to a bundle of stuff that can't be seen clearly. Maybe the the white-with-blue-stripes wire?
Confirm that the blue wire and the white wire nutted together are the other terminal of the transformer. Visual check is good; voltmeter check for ~26 volts from these to the R-and-yellow set is even better. Add the C wire into the nut with the blue and the white wires.
It wouldn't hurt to do a few manual checks at the thermostat location before attaching the Nest. Confirm ~26 volts from R to C and from R to W. Probably 0 volts from W to C. Finally try shorting R to W. The system should begin its usual heat cycle and continue as long as R and W are held shorted.


Should I replace a knob lock when replacing a matching deadbolt?

As the comments above pointed out, it makes sense to change both the knob and the deadbolt at once. Somebody also mentioned that Callan uses the Kwikset keyway. I confirmed that my key was a kwikset keyway and bought two Kwikset smart key knob/bolt combos from home depot. Using the smartkey feature, I was able to rekey the locks at my home to match my existing key. At about $90 total, this ended up being both a reasonably priced and convenient way to continue using my existing keys on all doors.

I still have callan knob/locks on 2-3 other doors, but they are much lower traffic and have not seen the same amount of wear. Should they ever break, I can replace them with a kwikset combo.


Should I install a plywood layer over concrete before I install laminate flooring?

There is no general answer to this.  You need to carefully read the manufacturer's recommendations for this particular flooring product.  They will have instructions for installation on top of common subfloor types.
If not, check with your dealer and/or contact the manufacturer directly.


how to identify and correctly wire a new light

If the "silver" wire goes directly to the frame of the light putting it with the bare copper is the correct thing to do. Then connect the black to black and white to white and you can say "let there be light".


There is a simple formula that relates Volts, Watts and Amps.

  W = V * A

You know the watts and the volts, and need to know amps to compare that to your circuit breaker.  Basic algebra tells us that Amps is going to be Watts divided by Voltage.  So, your kettle is going to use

  600W / 220V = 2.7A (about 3 Amps)

A C2 breaker is rated for 2 Amps, so it would not be sufficient for that kettle.


What is this strip hanging down inside my dryer? Anyone know?

Based on your description and the photo it appears to be the drum felt. The felt is the seal between the rotating drum and the stationary rear part of the dryer. Replacement will require removing the drum. Consider replacing the belt and the drum rollers while everything is apart.


A drywall patch without studs at the edges -- should I just open it up?

The 2 studs provide excellent main support, and you can use 1/2-in plywoord or other dimensional lumber pieces like left-over "1x4" for support at the drywall transitions.
Backing does not have to run the full length of the seams. In your case, if about 3/4 of the seams are backed that's fine. First screw the backing to the existing sheets, half-on, holding the backing firmly against the back of the drywall. You'll need a screw perhaps every 6in. Then when you apply the patch piece you know where there is backing based on the position of those screws.
Some places sell half-sheets, which with your 32in width and probably less than 48in height should be perfect and easy to transport. You may also be able to get some free plywood strips or 1x4 cuts for the support.
Straighten your cuts and stay at least an inch away form the corner. How straight? A gap up to perhaps 1/4in is totally fine. In fact I find that gaps allow mud to join the edges better, than when drywall tightly butts.
You can cut an "L" as your cutout, or replace a whole 32x48 rectangle. Depends on whether you want to redo your baseboard.
Clean-up the existing edges by bevelling them like a V on both sides (where old butts new) and thus shaving off any loose paper at the tattered edges. After installing you can use mesh tape.
As mentioned in the comments, consider Rockwool noise reduction, and any horizontal support brace (e.g. 2x6 / 2x8 on edge) for a hanging/suspended cabinet before you apply the sheets.


How to protect exterior galvanized flashing?

Oh finally a picture. Thank You! Yeah, you could flash over it with galvanized, aluminum, copper or stainless. But, the problem is cutting it in. You'd want to match the cut-in on the chimney all the way up the roof slope's wall. That's to do it right.

But, plenty of guys cover the old with new to just caulk & screw the new stuff to the wall. It's asking for future problems, but if maintained (re-caulked repeatedly) can last the life of the roof.


Grounding a subpanel using existing wiring

Retrofit ground. Bada-bing.

Code specifically allows you to retrofit ground in a case like this.

Given that it's a 60A subpanel, you need to get a #10 ground wire between the subpanel's ground bar and the main panel's ground bar (which may also be its neutral bar, since neutral and ground bars are to be bonded in a main panel).  As you probably know, in the subpanel you must keep neutral and ground fastidiously separate.

The ground wire may follow any reasonable path.  It may be legal to route to the grounding electrode system or another branch circuit's #10 ground wire instead, but I recommend going to the panel because this is a subpanel.


How to replace the plastic socket in a B22 light fitting?

Replace the whole thing.

Turn off power to the lighting circuit. Check, then unscrew the top white part and use a screwdriver to undo the screws holding the wires/

Any hardware store will stock replacements.

Some have metal to retain the bayonet pins, which is probably stronger than all-plastic construction.


With a vapor barrier installed, how critical is slashing/destroying faced insulation underneath?

Once the vapor barrier or plastic is installed/stapled over the faced insulation while forgetting to destroy/slash insulation facing underneath, three likely possibilities exist for destroying/slashing the insulation facing beneath the plastic or vapor barrier.

1) Possible to pull-up the vapor barrier at the top and bottom, only destroying the vapor barrier at the points of stapling.  After destroying/slashing the insulation facing, tape the vapor barrier using vapor barrier tape.

2) If only a few wall/ceiling cavities have faced insulation not destroyed/slashed, can slash through the tops and bottoms of the wall/ceiling cavity's vapor barrier AND insulation facing with a blade.  Then, further cross slash the insulation facing in the event the vapor barrier tape adheres to the insulation facing closing the cut.  Finish with taping the vapor barrier using vapor barrier tape.

TIP: Think ahead and make initial vertical slashes using the slashing method, and then the second slash destroying the insulation facing will then be good horizontal cut not adhere or closing after taping!

3) Completely forget about the slight oversight.  If all else fails, blame your hired worker (for whom you paid good money) for forgetting to remind you the proper methods.

TODO: Not sure if required to entirely slash/destroy the entire faced insulation, or if just the tops and bottoms are necessary.  Likely it is preferable to slash the entire facing.  Likely depends on your climate, and your unique scenario building requirements.

TIP: Can destroy the entire facing by pulling a blade using a carpet shapped blade underneath a (clear) vapor barrier, with a string attached to the blade tool.

For my task, option number two was needed, as the ceiling plastic significantly overlapped areas, and I only had forgotten to destroy the insulation facing on several wall cavities.


How do I keep heavy rain from draining into my house?

I had a similar problem and added a length of corrugated tubing to my existing downspouts.

What was happening is that the water came down the downspouts too close to the house. It did not have time to soak into the ground and pooled around the foundation. So using some black corrugated pipe and the right adapters got that water 5-10 feet from the house.

It is very low cost, just get some of the black pipe, the right adapters to attach to your downspouts, and sheet metal screws.


Is it necessary to replace lead gas pipes?

I suspect you actually have two questions:

1) Does it meet current code, and

2) Do I have to do something about it.

My understanding is that in most places you can't do anything new with lead gas pipe, BUT there's no obligation to upgrade old service as long as it's working OK.

My understanding is that most places won't even let you replace lead pipe with more lead pipe - if the pipe goes, you have to replace with something newer. But as long as the pipe is stable, you can leave it there for as long as you like.

Lead gas pipe is somewhat like solid asbestos shingles (which the house I grew up in had as siding) - as long as you don't disturb it, it isn't going to hurt anything, so don't disturb it unless you have to.


Pictures of the inside of the fixture box and switch box would be nice to confirm this, but based on your description it sounds like the installer wanted to be able to put a ceiling fan in this location.
In my parents' house they have a lot of ceiling fans wired this way - the fan is always on (and controlled by a pull cord) while the light is controlled by the wall switch.
The purpose of this arrangement is to make it easy to turn the light on and off while leaving the fan alone.

Since you are putting in only a light fixture, you should cap the black wire with a wire nut. For safety to prevent the nut from coming off you can tape the nut onto the wire with electrical tape (after screwing it properly to the wire; do not rely only on the tape to hold it there).

After capping the black, you should be able to hook up your fixture like this:

fixture black to house red
fixture white to house white
fixture green to house bare ground


Basement Steel Stud Framing with 1.5" Float

If one Googles "deep leg deflection track" one may see a photo like this one:

There is a way to use this type of track to build a floating frame but I don't fully understand it and therefore don't want to spread misinformation.
Per FreeMan's suggestion I reached out to the inspector. He recommended using slotted track instead. This seems to be the more intuitive way to build a floating frame with steel.


Do I need to caulk the walls and around tub of my shower all at the same time?

In a perfect world you would want to but you don't have to.  The silicone is mainly bonding to the materials around the gap, which is generally your tub and walls.  It doesn't matter in that case at all.

The only point that matters is the silicone connectivity between your silicone and old silicone.  This is a very small connection.  On GE's website you can read that silicone does indeed bond with dried silicone.  It however says that bond is not as good as what you would get with two wet bonds - obviously.  But still works.  If your silicone was not all the way dry probably even better for you.

I wouldn't worry about it.  Silicone bonds well and lasts a while.  Maybe just keep an eye out for the area that you connected on.  But really no big deal at all.


How to rough bath sink drain to maximize drawerspace

Your vanity plan should have front side doors in line with where the sink is located. Then the drawers should be off to the left or right side where there is plenty of height and space toward the back to accommodate their placement.

There are multiple reasons to not put drawers in the vanity under the sink area:

People stand in front of the vanity at the sink. It is extremely inconvenient to have drawers opening out at knee height where the you want to stand.
You cannot place any sort of drawer directly in front of the sink and drain because there is just not enough depth from the front face of the vanity to accommodate the drawer. Any drawer placed below the bottom level of the sink would have cabinet face framing running across in front of the cabinet that would make it difficult to make access to the space under the sink.
Having drawers in the space under the sink will restrict access to the water shutoff valves keep it from being possible to quickly inspect the drain area in the case of suspected leaks.

So I really recommend that you not put drawers in this part of the vanity cabinet. You will find plenty of things to store in the area under the sink behind the doors.


Protecting tiles from damage caused by child

You could use red rosin paper

Ram Board

Or some other similar product.  These products are used by builders and contractors, to protect flooring during construction.  They can be trimmed easily to fit any size and shape floor, are fairly cheap, and easily removable.


Insulating a cathedral roof with rigid foam

I for one like the new spray-in foam.  It does such a good job because it makes the house so tight. Infiltration is where you loose your heat.  It's the cracks that hurt you.  Nothing seals the cracks like the spray-in expanded polystyrene.  Regarding all that venting business;  they are just trying to keep the roof surface cold so the snow won't melt and cause ice dams.  Nothing out there can better keep the heat away for the roof surface.


Do i have to cut my vanity for my sink trap?

If your shelf is not removable, that  appears to be the case, then you will need  to cut a space out in the shelf wide enough to accommodate the plumbing.
A  Jig-saw will be the best tool for the job.

Is there a way to buy a different p trap so I don't have to cut the
vanity shelf, Or is it the best option at this point?

No, the P-trap is a standard size, The only other option is to cut open the wall and reconfigure the pipe in the wall,  move the sanitary  tee up.(but you have limited space to move it up because of the height of the sink tail piece.)
I believe that cutting the vanity is the best option.


Is the wall between a home and an attached garage built as an "exterior wall"?

No, the wall between the home and garage is designed and built as an interior wall. HOWEVER, it is a fire wall. Your code in Oregon requires 1) fire rated door between the spaces, and 2) fire rated wall "assembly", and 3) insulation.

1) The door needs to be fire rated door and frame, which can be a solid core door and a solid wood frame (not a frame with an applied stop). (See R302.5.)

2) The wall needs one layer of 1/2" gypsum board on the GARAGE side of the wall...other side of wall doesn't matter and 5/8" gypsum board on the ceiling of the garage if habitable rooms are located above the garage. (The building department is worried about a fire starting in the garage, not vise verses. They're protecting the house.) (See Table 302.6.)

3) Insulation is required for the building envelope.

No other Code items are required for this wall, including shear wall, structural wall, etc. HOWEVER, remember that the garage cannot open directly into a sleeping room (bedroom).


I found a bit more information and thought I would update this. The code has changed and I believe specifically section 8-304 of the most recent code has been amended for situations like this. The limit is 12, unless you are installing devices that have a known load. In the case of a LED light which is hardwired in, or a smoke alarm, you can put as many of these devices on the circuit providing you don't exceed the 80% load. This applies as long as you have no points on the circuit (such as receptacles) which would be an unknown load (since you don't know what someone is going to plugin). The moment you add a receptacle the limit drops back to 12. Hope this helps!


When temporarily testing things...

Just take box covers off and wire-nut stuff.

My cheater is male on one end, bare wires on the other.  I just go into the box, wire-nut up the load under test, plug the cheater into the Kill-a-Watt or whatever, and do my testing. Easy peasy.

I test hardwired loads that way all the time, it's no big.

Don't bottom your UPS

Use the Kill-a-Watt.   Tempting though it may be, don't run a UPS down to dead, except to test the battery.  It has a lead-acid battery, every time you run them dead takes a big chunk out of their life. Lithiums don't have that problem.

I agree it's likely the furnace doesn't take much power.

You might also have the conversation with your furnace manufacturer as to whether it can be run on 12V or 24V battery power directly.   It's quite possible that most or all of it runs on 24VAC and doesn't care AC vs DC.


Small part of filler in furnace is stuck. Can I still insert a new filter?

I would say possibly. If you can get the new filter to seal you may be able to install a new one but probably not.
I say probably not because the piece of the old filter may allow air to bypass the filter.
When you run the system without the filter all the dust and debris that normally get stuck on the filter end up in the heat exchanger. An excessive amount of dust can even cause a fire on the breathing air side of the heat exchanger. The mammal dust burning is usually not hazardous. The problem is now the ash and other debris stuck in there shorten the life of the fire box.
If your system has ac coils in the air handler or is a heat pump the dust plugs the coils and quickly reduces the efficiency and in the summer months may cause icing of the coils.

For these reasons it is not a good idea to leave part of a filter that can affect the seal, I have a long 3’ pair of finger grabbers, you push a plunger and 4 metal fingers come out I then grab the part I cannot reach releasing the plunger and pulling the piece out. Many auto parts stores carry these, in some cases I have had to disassemble the duct to repair the channels that hold the filter.


I hope the 90K is the output or it's truly undersized! Even so, it's quite common to oversize furnaces beyond the calculated heat loss by 20-30%. It's also possible the heat loss calculation is low, it's really just an estimate, and part of why the furnaces are oversized. Even if it is undersized, it would not significantly alter your energy costs. Costs are dependent mainly on the home's overall insulation and the furnace efficiency, the capacity and running time is not a big factor.

Changing ductwork will better distribute the heat, but if more heat is leaking out than the furnace can generate, it will not help. While a larger furnace will better heat your home, it will not help your energy costs. If your costs are out of line for your type and size of house in your area, then more heat is being lost than is typical. In the long run, you are better off preventing heat loss than generating more heat.

There are energy consultants in most areas that have the proper tools and equipment to advise you where most of the heat is being lost and what could be done to most effectively reduce heat loss.


How do I fix stripped bolt holes in wood?

If the threads are in metal, then you can replace the threads. What you're looking for is called a T-nut and should be available at any hardware store. Take a bolt with you to get the right size.

If the threads are in the wood, a simple option is to just take the bolt to a hardware store and buy a bigger bolt. T-nuts are also a good option if a bigger bolt isn't practical, but you will also need new bolts because you will not find T-nuts that match the threading of your current bolts.


How can I relocate a receptacle that cannot be removed from the junction box?

I would suggest trying harder to remove the screws before I started to rip up the floor; ripping up the floor to fix an electrical outlet/box just seems way to extreme.

If the screw head is stripped, use a specialty bit to remove stripped screws.  If it's rusted, try to use some penetrating oil (turn off the power first!).

As a last resort against the screws, you can drill out the screws and use a new tapping bit to create new larger threads for new screws.

If all that fails, just bust up the outlet (again, power off!) so that you can remove it or at least get access to other parts of the box so you can cut/grind whatever you need to remove it.


Hydrostatic mower drive belt - Troy Bilt Horse

It's fairly typical for lawnmowers to have guards like part #57 which make it difficult but not impossible to get the belt on.  They're more concerned with making it difficult for the belt to come off.  Though, this also helps keep it in place while you fiddle with the other end.  You may need to strongarm it a bit, but try to bend them back to the original positions.

If you really want to get the fan off, you need a crow-foot wrench and will probably need to hold the pulley with a strap wrench and work against that.  Don't be surprised if it's a reverse thread. The pulley will be splined to the shaft.

I've recently seen a suggestion to hold the pulley by twisting the belt with a flat nail bar.  Then put a short 2x4 between the nail bar and frame.


How to stop downstairs toilet from bubbling when upstairs toilet is flushed?

It seems to me that what is happening is when the 3rd floor toilet flushes, the volume of air in the 3 story length drain pipe needs to go somewhere, and it is venting out through the ground floor toilet.

I believe your observation is correct. The problem is, you have an AAV (Studor valve) on the toilet to vent it. This allows air in but does not allow air out. Otherwise you would get a foul smell from sewer gas.

So, when the upstairs toilet flushes a large volume of water down the vent stack it forces air up through the toilet since it cannot go up through the AAV.

The only really good solution is to add a vent to the downstairs plumbing that goes all the way to the attic and joins the house vent stack there.

So, you can live with the bubbling or install a standard vent for the toilet.

Good luck!


How can I prevent bluestone mortar from degrading so quickly?

I find using an add mix in the mortar strengthens and some brands even help waterproof mortar. When I lived in Ohio I used a clear epoxy sealer that was sanded it worked quite well to protect the mortar but I did not like the semi gloss sheen, the epoxy did make the stone work much easier to sweep though.


1 - "nothing was flipped" is not always clear. Sometimes a breaker can trip without being obvious. If you know which breakers power the bathroom circuits, flip those all the way off/on and see if that fixes the problem.

2 - Check the bathroom outlets. If any of them have a GFCI then press the Reset button. The outlets for the bathrooms may be sharing a circuit, all protected by one GFCI, and while lighting generally is on a separate circuit, it may be connected too.


Can I safely use a switch rated for "1A at 125V" with 240V,  assuming I stay below 125W?

Likely you cannot - the insulation rated for 125 volts might fail at higher voltage and this might lead to an arc starting and causing a short. Also the circuit breaking capacity might be not enough for higher voltage, this can cause an arc starting when turning the switch off and that can overheat the switch and set it on fire. I strongly advise against trying this.


What do the numbers in screw sizes M3, M4 etc. mean?

There are a few more numbers for a complete description. It's pretty much a world-wide system described by several ISO standards, but there are occasional oddities (slight differences between ISO and DIN standard sizes on a few items for instance)
You asked about M3, M4, etc - that describes (only) the outside diameter of the screw - or the size of an unthreaded hole the screw would slip through.
A full description is like M6-1X25 Which describes the outer diameter (6) , the distance from one thread to the next (1) (pitch) and the length (25) (all in millimeters.)
An M6 could also be an M6-0.75 (fine thread pitch) X whatever length. When not specified, the coarse thread is generally assumed, but sometimes the assumption is wrong...
Coarse and Fine pitch for the sizes you asked about:

M3-0.50 and M3-0.35
M4-0.7 and M4-0.5
M5-0.8 and M5-0.5

Thread charts are easily found if you need to know about more sizes.


I had nearly the same problem and a single french drain made the problem go away. It is important (and probably worth reinstalling if not done) to have:

a 10% grade (1 inch down for every 10 inches of pipe length)
cloth covered french drain pipe
plug off the yard-end or open it to a ground level drain (cloth and grate covered!) and make sure you can access it to clean it out
make sure your trench is at least 8 inches wide (2 inches clearance on either side of a standard 4 inch french drain pipe)
place the french drain pipe in a channel that has 1-2 inches of pea gravel for a bed
cover the pipe with at least 2 inches of pea gravel before putting in the dirt

The french drain also should start prior to the onset of the wet area.
(Please note the image does not accurately reflect the opening of the yard end - i.e. you can't clean this one out!)


For painting these walls, should I just paint over it the new color?

Stripping or sanding existing paint off of a wall isn't done unless the paint is really bubbling or chipping off.

For painting walls, the best way to go is to clean the walls, put on a coat of primer, and then finish with 1-2 coats of a latex paint.

Primer will cover an oil or latex paint and give the new paint a uniform layer to adhere to.  This is good because you say that the wall might need patching.  The patched area and the original walls will take paint differently and could end up with a different sheen if you do not prime first.

Now, this could be somewhat region specific, but I don't think so.  Interior walls are normally painted with a latex based paint.  High traffic areas will use a glossier paint to make it easier to clean (bathrooms, kitchens), and bedrooms normally use a flat, non-gloss finish.  Oil-based paint is still used in limited application for trim, but really most of that is also latex.


Finishing basement. Need advice for receiver/speaker setup

The Denon receiver you linked to should do what you want -- it can output to 7 speakers plus a subwoofer, and it can play from a different source simultaneously through two of its speakers (the surround back R & L). However, it's meant as a "home theater receiver" and not really a "multiroom audio receiver", so it may take some finicking with the settings to get everything to sound right. You might consider consulting a forum more suited for home audio enthusiasts for recommendations on specific receivers. At a minimum, I'd strongly suggest downloading the receiver's manual and reading through it to see if it has the options you need.

For your specific questions:

You need speaker wire. There are countless varieties of this, so just pick an option with a thick enough gauge (the longer the cable run, the thicker a gauge you'll want) and check that it's rated for in-wall use. Your speakers won't need any special type of connection (just strip the ends of each lead and plug the exposed copper into the jacks).
Ceiling speakers are, in my opinion, never going to give the best sound experience (there's a reason the standard home theater setup is to put speakers level with the listeners' ears). Assuming you're going to be putting out the same mono signal through each speaker, I don't think the particular layout of the speakers will make a huge difference. If you're interested in controlling each speaker's volume (or perhaps expanding your setup in the future), a multiroom receiver like this one I picked randomly might be a better choice.


For a 2' span from the adjacent joist on only half the width of the sheet, that block is more than adequate. If there are a half dozen framing nails in it it'll never move. You could park a piano there and it would hold. The key is the fasteners, not the height of the block.

Now, you mentioned an out-of-level condition and failed to explain where. (Edit: I see it now in a comment.) I'll assume that it's the end of the sheet over that block. If so, the block should be raised or shimmed to bring the sheet level with the others.


How do I clean teak oil off of a paint brush?

Oils all pretty much set up the same way. They oxidize and form a polymer cross-link. Once this has happened, you have a vegetable plastic coating on everything they came in contact with and were absorbed into. It's non-reversible so after-the-fact cleaning isn't an option.

Removing the oil while it's still liquid usually requires mineral spirits, turpentine or a degreasing agent and needs to be done before the oil starts to get tacky. All the oil must be removed or the bristles will stick together as polymerization sets in.

My basic cleanup is to use turpentine to initially clean out the oil, followed up by a good wash out with dishwashing detergent and a final water rinse. All the oil must be gone.

Or else go with cheap Chinese Boar Bristle brushes and toss them after the job is done.

NOTE: Due to the oxidation and polymerization, treat all rags and any other oil contaminated items with care. The process is exothermic and can generate enough heat to start a fire.