If I install a GFCI on the first outlet in a circuit will the other receptacles on that breaker circuit have GFI protection?

Finding the first

There's really no substitute for opening boxes, unhooking wires and turning the circuit on and taking measurements.

You open up your believed-closest box, and remove the wires you think are downstream (away from the panel).  Tape off the loose wires so they can't short against anything, and plug a 3-light tester or nightlight.   Then go turn the circuit on, and see what lost power.   If all the other receptacles lost power, you're in the right box.  Otherwise try another box.

If the receptacle still has power, you've identified the supply wires.  Otherwise touch the loose wires with a non-contact voltage tester and see if you can find the lit-up hot, or just power down and try a different pair.

Usually there are only 2 pairs.   If there are more than 2, you may need to disassemble a pigtail. This is also a good time to do housekeeping like make sure your wires are on screws (not unreliable backstabs), upgrade to the $3.00 receptacles instead of the 50 cent builder grade cheapies, and upgrade to 20A (T shaped neutral) sockets if the circuit is indeed 20A and you expect to use those.

GFCI+receptacle devices are very confusing because they are doing two things. Let's break it up.

What is a GFCI?

A GFCI is a black-box which inputs hot(s) and neutral on its "line" side ... and then it outputs protected hot and neutral on its "load" side.

That's it.  To signify the protected side, I use brown and gray wire in conduit work, but you can do the same by tagging wires with brown and gray electrical tape.  It can be a circuit breaker, or a dedicated black box.  If that's hard to visualize, look at this.

This is a GFCI device in its purest form: a "deadface" GFCI. You can only hook this up just like the diagram: supply wires to LINE and downline load(s) to LOAD (otherwise what's the point?)

Since you have first location and supply wires identified, do exactly that. Pigtail the loads if necessary, though some GFCIs use screw-and-clamp to allow 2 wires on a screw.

Be prepared to install a box extension if the box is too small to fit the GFCI device and the wires.

How do you get sockets at the deadface location?  Well, heh heh, I don't seriously expect you to use a deadface when you could use a GFCI+receptacle... it's just better for illustration. But here's the gotcha:  Since the sockets are pre-wired to the LOAD side, it's possible to miswire a GFCI+receptacle, attaching power feed to the LOAD side - in which case the outlets will be energized but the GFCI will not protect.

How to test for GFCI functionality

Use a simple GFCI tester.  Most of them come as part of a 3-light tester, in which case get a simple one**.

You just push the button, and it induces a hot-ground fault which should trip a GFCI protective device.  If it isn't obvious, put a "GFCI Protected" sticker on the receptacle.

Now, this external tester will not work if the receptacle is not actually grounded.  (there is no way to induce a ground fault without a ground).  In that case, get a 3/2 prong "cheater" and extend the ground wire/tab with other wires, to reach a place with an actual ground. Plug the tester into that and it should work/trip.

Once it passes, also put a "No Equipment Ground" sticker there.

Now if this is a GFCI device and testing it also trips another one, then most likely it's fed off that other GFCI's LOAD outputs, which makes it redundant. Remove it and put it somewhere that matters.

** Especially avoid the ones that have digital logic to "help make the lights make more sense":  you are much better off with a simple one and interpreting the lights yourself than using the silly legends.  The words describing the light combinations, I call them the "magic 8-ball". But the lights are useful.


How to protect furniture in a leaky garage?

Just put the furniture up on blocks.  Simple blocks of cheap wood.  "1 inch" (meaning 3/4") strips are fine.

You don't need to avoid water ever contacting the furniture, but you do need anything that does to dry out quickly.  For that reason, wrapping in any form of plastic is likely harmful.

Now drape some plastic loosely over the top, or a cheap tarp, making sure there's plenty of airflow.  Done.


Why is the finish coming off while sanding between coats of polyurethane on glazed cabinets?

What type of paint/glaze? Oil or water based poly?  Check with manufacturer of the poly to make sure it's compatible with previous top coats. The ones I've called in the past have always been very helpful.

How long did you let paint/glaze cure before poly? Even though paint dries within hours it takes a while to fully cure. If you apply the poly before it cures you'll have problems with the poly curing. Should wait at least 7 days before applying poly. More depending on climate.


How to select a good quality Duplex Outlet . . .?

Receptacle grades 101 (for North Americans)

As you have noticed, North American wiring devices, such as receptacles and wall switches, come in multiple grades, each with an associated pricetag.  While there aren't hard standards on what each grade means until you reach the upper echelons, most manufacturers have settled on a basic system that goes like follows, from cheapest/chintziest to best built/tested:

Builder or residential grade.  These are the $.59 outlets that you find on special at the big-box stores, and are also what are used by builders wiring tract houses (in order to keep prices down).  As a result, while they meet the UL specification for receptacles, they generally just slide by, instead of exceeding it by a large margin.  However, they can give acceptable performance over time for a lightly-used receptacle if wired using properly torqued side screws.  Just don't use the "backstab" wiring features these receptacles provide!
Specification or "spec" grade, also known as commercial or construction grade.  This is the next step up from a builder-grade receptacle, and generally cost $2-$5 a piece.  These receptacles ditch the dreaded "backstabs" in favor of using a screw-and-clamp backwiring system that does a far better job of holding wire, in addition to generally being more robust.  They're what you'll find in places like office buildings, schools, and such, although they certainly are not out of place in a residential setting either.  They also offer a broader variety of options (receptacle types and so forth) than builder-grade parts do.
Industrial (heavy-duty) grade.  These are the next step up from a spec grade receptacle, and are found in industrial environments and other highly abusive places, as their name implies.  As a result, they have extra-high-impact plastic parts and improved contact systems over their spec-grade counterparts, in order to withstand not only mechanical abuse, but industrial-level electrical abuse as well, such as repeated motor surge currents.  This is where you get into paying $10-$20 a receptacle, as well.
Hospital grade.  Finally, we get to the beasts of the receptacle world, those meant for some of the roughest use possible: hospitals.  Hospitals are notoriously rough on equipment, and also place high demands on the safety of electrical equipment due to just how vulnerable you are to being zapped when you're opened up on an operating room table.  As a result, these receptacles receive extra abuse testing as part of the UL listing process in order to get their Hospital Grade designation, and will be marked specially with a green dot on the face in order to denote them as Hospital Grade parts.  Interestingly enough, they aren't as costly as industrial grade parts, either, only running somewhere in the $5-$10 range.

(You'll also run into what are called Federal Specification, or Fed Spec, wiring devices; these are basically something that's received a bit of extra UL testing to make sure it meets the standards the US government has set for the receptacles it puts in its own buildings.  Generally, any decent commercial/specification grade receptacle should be Fed Spec as well, although not all are.)


3-Way switch on single pole--convert to combination?

Unfortunately, this isn't really straightforwardly possible with your current wiring
Sadly, you've been bit here by one of the all-too-commonly misunderstood things in mains electrical wiring: the old style of switch loop, where always-hot power is brought to the light fixture first, then down to the switch (or switches, in your case), and switched-hot is sent back up to the fixture, without ever bringing a neutral wire to the switch location.  You see, an ordinary light switch never touches the neutral wire.  However, if you want to power something at the switchbox location, such as a plug load on a receptacle, or even something as trivial as a nightlight or smart-switch device, you need both hot so that power can get to your gizmo and neutral to provide a path for that electricity to get back to the utility from whence it came.
It's possible to correct this with by replacing this whole complex with smart-switches that talk over RF or powerline comms to a control module in the light fixture box (I personally favor Insteon for these sorts of "spot" smart-switch retrofits due to its powerline-centric, peer-to-peer design) and retasking the white wire in the cable from the light box to become a neutral since it's no longer needed to serve as a switched-hot, but that's a more involved project, especially since you want to put a receptacle at this location as well.


How do I calculate the size of electric baseboard heater needed?

There are all sorts of elaborate calculations that you can make to determine the total wattage that you need.  These take into account where you live, insulation, room volume, number of people, etc.

The quick and dirty rule of thumb many electricians use is 10 watts per square foot.  So if your basement is 1200 sq. ft., you will need 12,000 watts of baseboard heaters.  When wired for 240-volt operation, a baseboard heater puts out 250 watts per foot.  So a 6-foot long heater, for example, will give you 1500 watts.

Figure out the area (square footage) of each basement room, then multiply by 10 to determine the wattage you will need.  Next, figure out how you want to layout out the heaters.  They come in increments of 2-feet, from 2-feet long to 8-feet long.  If you have any windows, the heaters should be placed underneath them.

Last, decide how you want to control the heaters.  Baseboard electric heaters can have individual thermostats installed in the end of each unit or can be controlled by a wall thermostat.  However, if you go with an in-line wall thermostat, you will be limited to a maximum of about 3840 watts (about 16 amps at 240 volts).  This might work fine if you have two or three small rooms.


Why do I have a urine smell under vanity in bathroom

This may be a case of mold or mildew which can emit a urine like smell.

I lived in a lower level apartment for a time that was overly humid and this urine smell would crop up in enclosed areas or behind furniture from time to time.

In this case you need to ensure you improve ventilation/airflow in the affected areas, to stop the mold problem from getting worse.

Once you have better airflow, you can deal with the scent by putting vinegar in a spray bottle and lightly misting all the affected surfaces. Let the vinegar dry, then wipe down the surfaces with a rag and warm soapy water. If the smell persists, make a solution of baking soda dissolved in water and mist all the surfaces with that. Once again let it dry before wiping up. Be sure not to get it too wet, dampness is the enemy.  You can repeat the whole process a few times if the smell is particularly strong/persistent.

in my experience this process got rid of the odor, but if you haven't fixed the overall humidity issue the problem will keep coming back.

Also, if the cabinet is made of particle board and the problem is longstanding, the scent may have permeated the entire thing and be really hard to eliminate.


No, Code says nowhere that a receptacle-type AFCI or GFCI is required; breaker-type GFCIs and AFCIs are also usable whenever AFCI or GFCI protection is called for by the NEC or otherwise desirable.  In fact, circuit breaker manufacturers now offer a device that's both a GFCI and a CAFCI in the same package -- look for a DFCI (Dual-Function Circuit Interruptor) breaker.

As to your clarified question (cites from the 2014 NEC):

The refrigerator receptacle and the dedicated microwave receptacle do not require GFCI protection, as those receptacles are not installed to serve the kitchen countertop surfaces, and likely are more than 6' from the edge of your kitchen sink as well.

The DW circuit, however, does require a GFCI, even though it is hardwired, as per 210.8(D):

  (D) Kitchen Dishwasher Branch Circuit. GFCI protection shall be
  provided for outlets that supply dishwashers installed in dwelling unit
  locations.

Note the word "outlets" in this passage, vs. the use of the term "receptacles" in 210.8(A) -- in Code parlance, an "outlet" is a place where power is tapped from a circuit to serve a utilization device, whether it be a hardwired device, a luminaire, or a cord-and-plug connected device, while a "receptacle" is what you plug cords into.

The disposal does not require GFCI protection either, unless its receptacle is within six feet of the top inside edge of the sink bowl "as the cord flies". (In other words, the receptacle, while not covered by 210.8(A) point 6, may fall under 210.8(A) point 7.)


Schedule 40 pipe is what is used under many of our slabs and under the driveways for conduits/pathways for future use. Never had an issue. Schedule 35, yes, it would crush.
Make sure the conduit is at least flush with the sub grade or it will act as a control joint and the concrete will crack at the place the pipe is.


There should be a mounting nut on the faucet stem which holds the faucet from below (under the counter). You will need to shut off water heater AND the water to the heater, and disconnect the supply pipes. Take the mounting nut off and pull the faucet out. When you look inside you will find something similar to the armature for pop-up drain plugs (I think). Basically you should be able to see how everything goes in and how to take it apart once the faucet is has been taken off the counter. There should be a rubber ring that can be replaced. If you can't figure it out once the faucet is off, take a picture of the inner workings and post it so that someone here will be able to help.


Installing Gutter Leaf Guard Under Shingle

I am assuming that you are installing a surface tension type of system.  Ideally the metal sheet should go under both layers of roof.  It is hard to tell from the photo but it appears that the gutter may be high relative to the first roof.  If this is the case it will still work if it goes under the top layer only.  If the gutter is too high, preventing the gutter guard from laying at the same slope as the roof, you will need to relocate the gutter at a slightly lower position.  If the guard does not have enough slope the leaves will get hung up rather than being washed off the roof.


As the inverter power level goes up, 12V inverters become totally impractical due to the required wire diameter. For example, if you have a 4kW inverter, it would be really ridiculous to design it for 12V. 4kW/12V = 433A. Even at 1kW, you are pushing limits with a 12V inverter.

There are a lot of really junky inverters out there. If you see a high power inverter that takes 12V, there is a good chance that it is a piece of junk, and that the ratings are wildly optimistic.

For off grid home use, I would recommend you work with the highest battery voltage that is practical (which is  generally 48V). This will allow you to use more reasonable wire diameters without power loss. Power loss in wire is a function of I squared, so it makes a big difference. And copper is expensive. And fat cables are difficult to work with. Etc.

If you can't or don't want to work with 48V, then 24V is the next best thing.


OK, so a) you have 400A class service, or some other good reason to have dual main panels with dual main breakers.  And, you are ready to install a fairly large electrical box right next to them. And c) you are OK routing wires or cables from both main panels to this new third box.  Those are all the ingredients we need to succeed.
But send it back. It's the wrong thing.
And way overpriced and very limiting, compared to what we're about to do.
Honestly, it's usually the wrong thing, because the inherent design of those boxes was a 1970s-tier "hack". Generator salesmen love 'em because they feel like they're sending you home with something "that'll work on any panel" - but they are thinking of obsolescent panels like Zinsco or Pushmatic, where there is simply not an option for a proper full-panel interlock.
Today, the problem is this old hack doesn't play well with modern panels, like your dual panels, AFCI, GFCI, power monitoring, or any of the neat stuff Leviton is doing with their smart panels.  In fact they cannot provide AFCI protection and don't provide GFCI either (unless the generator does, but who wants the entire house tripping out)? If AFCI/GFCI is mandatory, it's mandatory in generator mode too.
Either of the methods below will take care for those problems, and happen for around $100 give or take - certainly not $500.
Option 1: Get a full-panel interlock for one panel ($60-100)
based on your photo on DIYchatroom, you'd need to retrofit main breakers ($100) into these panels to implement this option. However, this would be the easiest thing to do, and these quite-new panels definitely have interlocks available for them.
Normally, when you have dual main panels, it's because of 300+ amp service that is simply too big to economically do on one panel.  That is fine as long as the panels are next to each other. (main disconnects must all be in one place).
However, the usual way to set up dual panels is to put your BIG loads (on-demand water heater, or the #1 application, heat pump emergency heat) into one of the panels -- and all your normal residential loads (receps, lights, etc.) in the other panel.  Typically these loads are far too big to ever be able to power from a generator, it doesn't make sense to do that.  So you "write off" the big-load panel.
So that makes generator layout very simple: you only need to support one panel.  Put the usual whole-panel generator interlock into that panel, and you're all set.
If your loads are scattered all over both panels, my advice is to correct that.  If it's possible to simply re-route the Romex cable, that's great.  However, if not, you can use the "old" panel as a splice box, and carry over hot and neutral to the new panel. You must bring over both the hot and the neutral as a pair. You cannot leave neutral in the old panel; it MUST come over to the new panel.  However, you can leave safety ground in the old panel.   Neutral is not ground.
If you need to do several circuits, the best way to do this is with one or several conduit runs between the panels. It's possible to install acceptable conduits without removing a panel from the wall.
Option 2: New subpanel with generator interlock. ($90-120)
Like we say around here, "Think BIG" about panel size.  A modest 24-space panel will switch 20 AFCI circuits or 40 plain ones between utility and generator. The problem, as you know, is you don't use many loads at once but they are scattered on many circuits. By using a whole panel as an interlock, you can support a large number of circuits.
We recommend spending a few lattés on a size bump to 30 or even 40 spaces.  Nobody ever came on here saying "I want to add a circuit but I left myself plenty of spaces, what do I do?"  But the line is around the block of people who chintzed out on panel size and regret it.
You get a panel either with a main breaker and factory-made generator interlock kit, main-lug/no-lug and you fit two 2-pole breakers with an interlock between them.  These are are back-fed, one by utility and one from the generator inlet (which can be anywhere you please; in-wall UF cable is cheaper than heavy generator cord and a darn sight more convenient.)
At that point, you move any circuits you want on generator out of your regular panel into the new panel - as said above, using conduit if able, and both hot and neutral wires must come over together.
If any of the "to be brought over" circuits are on AFCI or GFCI breakers, take close note of the make of the breakers.  Choose your gen subpanel so the existing breakers are legal in it (generally, don't cross brands; they will seem to fit but will burn up the bus bars).  That way you can just move your valuable breakers to the new panel and save $40-60 each.
On regular breakers I'm not so worried, they're typically $5-ish.
Yeah, but you really, really want to save that panel
--Why?  They ripped you off. And it won't even function with your AFCI breakers, and problems like that will just keep biting you: it'll be the path of pain. Don't fall victim to inertia or "the fallacy of sunk costs" Even if you can't return it, unused/complete transfer switches sell pretty well on eBay/Craigslist. It will fetch a fair bit more than the above solutions cost: you'll be cash ahead!
But OK.
The transfer switch can only serve circuits in one panel.   Reliance tech support can't "waive" this requirement; it's in NEC 110.3(B).  When UL approves equipment like this, they also approve the instructions and labeling. UL only approved the device for uses according to the instructions and labeling; they didn't even test it otherwise. The companion law is 110.3(B) which says you must obey those (approved) instructions and labeling.  The switch is only approved to support 1 panel, and that's the end of the discussion.
So, you need to choose 1 panel, and move circuits from the other panel to it.  That is a straightforward matter, and I discuss it at length in option 1.
It's OK to have wire-nut splices inside a service panel, and it's OK to use a panel as a splice box for unrelated circuits. So you can lift a circuit off its breaker and neutral, and extend its hot(s) and neutral together to the other panel.
In the other panel, the neutral lands on that neutral bar, and the hot(s) go to their new breaker there.   Yes, it matters to move the neutral wire.  That's what all this is about.
The hot(s) and neutral for a given circuit must be in the same cable (back to 300.3 again).
With cables, I would just run them the 3 inches straight across, I wouldn't bother going out the top or bottom.
When I have panels side by side (and I do), I like to include conduit "tunnels" between the 2 panels; several of them in fact.  However, the hot(s) and neutral for any given circuit must go through the same tunnel.    If a cable has enough wire length to make it through a conduit tunnel to the other panel, go for it.


How do I safely and cleanly remove sealant from a plastic bath?

You might have to resort to good old fashioned elbow grease.

The sealant should come off the tiles the easiest, both mechanically by scraping with a plastic edge - the flat edge of an adhesive spreader should be suitable, and if necessary chemically (though I'm not 100% certain what you can use) as the glazed surface will hard to damage.

The plastic bath might cause more problems. I'd start with rubbing or scraping with the plastic edge - but take a lot more care. Chemicals are more likely to damage the surface too. You could try using a plastic safe cleaner.


What does "class 2 input only" mean in my LED desk lamp?

You're correct that "input" means the power source. "Class 2" and "Class II" are different, however. The former refers to wire size and other specifications, and the latter refers to the insulation (shock protection) standard of the device.
More on that


Finish vinyl plank flooring (subfloor step)

This is probably something you should have thought about before placing the new flooring :)

However you should probably put a door sill in.
As for material there are various options usually stone, wood or metal.
You'll have to choose what best suits your home.
If you want the drop to be gradual you should get an angled sill.
Most likely you will end up having to cut into the newly laid floor a bit to accommodate for the door sill.


Does this water pipe installation have problem?

I agree with ArchonOSX, it's very sloppy & does violate code beyond that. It needs to be re-done & even when it's right it should have a metal plate bridging more than its width so nails or screws can't penetrate it for just that bottom stud.

The jog they did has to be a minimum of 1-1/2-inches away from the underside of the floor, again so penetrations can't or aren't likely to happen. It doesn't matter how far back they have to start over with the line or where they have to move it to in order to do it right, it has to be safe from potential damage.


Can 18psi water source run a 20" Big Blue Sediment filter without pump?

It depends on which model and what rate of flow you are using at the time.  The manufacturer's spec sheet has the details:
Big Blue Filter Specs
See the section titled

SPECIFICATIONS AND PERFORMANCE

In the table there look at the right-hand column for INITIAL ∆P.  Also refer to the graph:  PRESSURE DROP VS FLOW RATE
EDIT:
In your comment you said:

My point is. Compared to with and without any filter. The flow rate
can change due to changing in pressure via the filter, right? This is
my original question not directly answeree

No, you asked about pressure not flow rate.  Specifically you asked:

What will happen to my 18psi pressure? Will it turn it to 15psi or
maybe 10psi?

This is answered by the specs from the filter manufacturer.  This does not address flow rate as that is NOT determined by the filter.
To specifically answer the questions you raised in your post as well as the question you asked in your comments:

The PRESSURE will drop because of the insertion of any filter.  How much depends on the filter, its condition, the flow rate, and other factors.
The FLOW is determined by the source (i.e. the pump or the municipal supply) and is not directly affected by the filter.

Check the specs on your pump (assuming you have a pump as you didn't say) and you will see graphs such as this one that show how the pump's flow is affected by the pressure (i.e. the "head").
Sample Flow vs. Head Graph
In other words, it depends.


There will always be a vent stack in a home if you have plumbing in it.  they usually poke out the roof to vent and go all the way to the basement and under the basement floor.  All the waste water dumps into these pipes and exits the house to the main waste pipe outside your home.  Depending on how many bathrooms you have the number of vent stacks can differ but most homes with one bathroom and a kitchen have two vent stacks.  The bathroom vent stack will be the larger one (3-4 inches) and the kitchen is generally around a 2 inch pipe I believe.  Usually when you tie into a vent stack you cut out a chunk and insert a "y" fitting of some sort.  I am no plumber by any means but I have observed this being done. Also, when you tie into a vent stack there is a code in my state where you have to have the vent for the tie-in go above the fixture above it (i.e. above where the kitchen sink drain dumps into the stack if you tie into that stack)  I think the name of that would be a branch vent ( see my simple diagram below). Good luck.


What are the signs of a failing tank water heater?

There are a few signs of a tank which is about to fail. Unfortunately, how long until failure is not so easy to determine.

Leaks

Leaks are perhaps the most obvious, although maybe not the easiest to spot since the water may be dried up. Check the seam of the side of the tank, as well as on the top and bottom. Look for rust, or actively dripping water. Check the pan under the tank, if installed, for signs of water, especially water that has dried.

Full of sediment

If you hear popping or gurgling when the heater is on, that could be a sign that the tank is filling up with (or already full of) sediment. If you don't get as much hot water as you used to, that can also be a sign.

Check the anode rod

Tanked water heaters come with 1 or more anode rods, which protect the heater by dissolving before the tank itself does. Because the metal tank is in contact with water, it begins to dissolve; the anode rod prevents that essentially by dissolving first. This is the cause of some of the sediment build up in the tank (the rest being from the minerals in the water, or from the pipes themselves). If you check your anode rod and it's completely dissolved, you'll need to replace the tank soon as it has already started to corrode; if it's not completely dissolved, you could replace the anode rod and extend the life of the tank.

The water isn't (as) hot anymore

If it's not heating the water (as well as it used to) anymore, you'll need a new water heater, or at least repairs to your existing one.

Water not always being as hot, or needing to run it longer before it runs hot, may not always indicate a failing heater, though. Those things may be affected by the ambient temperature, how well the pipes are insulated, how far from the heater the fixture is, debris in valves or fixtures, etc. If it is a constant problem, that's more likely to indicate a problem with the heater, but if it only happens sometimes, I'd try to rule out other correlations first.

It hasn't failed, but is an energy hog

It may be more energy efficient to replace the water heater even before it has failed, although that depends on the efficiency of your current heater, energy prices, etc. You'd want to run some calculations to see if this is a reasonable option.


How to measure electricity used by hot water heater

If you can afford the metering equipment then purchase and install that. Gives you the direct total energy use...

If not then you have to consider a different direction...

So, go the easy route: measure the hot water use over a week: measure shower times and take a suitable average then with the flow rate calculate how much hot water was necessary (gallons or litres... up to you - convert or use which you like). Measure all activities that use hot water and multiply by how many times per week.

Now you have the total hot water used and so you can use Q = MCp (T2 - T1) and get the total energy which leads you to the cost if you know how much you pay per unit.  You can take Cp to be 4.18 kJ/kg K for the accuracy you will be working with.

Also include an efficiency figure - the tank is not perfectly insulated etc...

The average hot water use is around 40 to 60 L/person/day  at 60 deg C - a European rule of thumb - may well be different  for other locations some places have larger bath tubs than others... Or take longer showers...


How can I replicate an integrated double oven and cooktop unit with individual components?

Top - Microwave
Just look for built in microwave and you should find plenty. The catch is that a built in microwave generally costs a lot more than a countertop microwave. The advantages are that (a) they are (in my opinion) generally built to be more durable (i.e., replacement parts available instead of "toss it when anything goes bad") and (b) they typically include a light & fan below as they are designed to be used over a cooktop.
You need to check the installation guide for the microwave oven to figure out how to mount it, as it will need to attach directly to the wall (into the studs - don't rely on little anchors or toggle bolts for this!) or to an upper cabinet.
Middle/Bottom - Separate
A separate gas cooktop for the middle and electric oven for the bottom.
The electric oven would really be a "wall oven" but installed in a lower cabinet instead of higher up in a cabinet/wall. However, you will then need cabinets built to hold them. While in the old days a cooktop (gas or electric) would have a false drawer front (like for a sink), with modern cooktops you can often use a regular drawer with a cutout for the gas pipe and/or electric cord (gas cooktops need power for electronic ignition). This has the advantage of easily (i.e., relatively cheaply) getting a gas cooktop together with an electric oven, which many people (myself included prefer) as gas provides better control for a cooktop than electric while electric ovens often work better in a number of ways than gas ovens.
Middle/Bottom - Together
A slide-in, standard width combination cooktop/oven.
This is the easiest solution, and often the cheapest, but does not provide as much flexibility. Similar to your old Tappan, except without the top oven. If you want to have gas cooktop with electric oven, your choices are relatively limited. Most manufacturers, at least on the low-to-mid price range, use the same heating method for cooktop & oven.
Power!
Your existing Tappan most likely had a single gas connection and a single electrical connection. If both ovens were gas, then the electric connection was most likely 120V, possibly just 15A or 20A as it only needed to power the clock, controls and electric ignitors but not provide any heat. If one or both ovens were electric then you probably have a 240V, 40A or 50A connection.
For a new setup, you will need:

Gas for the cooktop (and possibly oven, in which case it would be one connection)
120V, 15A or 20A (check the specs) for the top microwave

One of:

120V, 15A for the cooktop ignition, plus
240V, 40A or 50A (check the specs) for the electric oven

or

240V, 40A or 50A (check the specs) for a combination gas cooktop/electric oven

or

120V, 15A for ignition and controls for a combination gas cooktop/gas oven

That means, at an absolute minimum, you will need an additional circuit for the microwave oven. But you may also need a new and/or upgraded circuit for the bottom oven, depending on the type of appliances you choose and the existing wiring.
You will also need to paint and/or tile the space between the cooktop and the microwave oven as there won't be a metal backsplash in between like your Tappan has. You may find the wall behind looks great, or the builder may have left it as unfinished drywall because "who will ever know".
There are really a lot of options. If you stick with the same brand/style, you can actually get a very nice match between the 2 or 3 appliances, or you can use different brands and if they are all stainless steel or all white or all black then it will generally look pretty good.


What should I do with a double gang box if I no longer need two separate switches?

I'm surprised that the switch controls the entire outlet -- generally in that setup (in North America at least), the switch only controls one plug, and the other plug is constant power. In that case of course, the answer is to use a power bar. It may even be worth checking in the plug to see if there is constant power available. You may be able to fix the wiring to work as I've described.

If you can't fix the problem at the plug, then remove the switch, connect the wires together with a wire nut, and then install a duplex faceplate with a blank. The only way I know of to do this is to use the "decora" style blanks, and then either a duplex decora plate, or a combination toggle/decora plate.


Super gluing it back together may work, but probably won't work for long if you open/close the blinds somewhat regularly. You'll probably need to replace the part sooner rather than later.

It's possible that you may be able to purchase a replacement part, but I don't think it's likely. Unfortunately, especially for the lower priced items, I think they're designed for replacement, not repair, but you may be pleasantly surprised!

Try going to your local big-box store and head to the window treatment counter. Bring the blind with you (or at least know the brand) and see if they can order parts. If that doesn't work, try a window treatment specialty store. They may have some replacement parts in stock that would work with your blinds, even if they brand doesn't match.

Barring that, I think you'd have to replace the whole blind unit. These seems to be more of a low-end unit, so, unless the window is huge a replacement should be reasonably priced (under $50 where I live, probably under $30 if the window isn't too big). Even huge windows (I've got a couple in my 100+-year-old house) will be under $100 to replace the whole thing, unless you go with a "fancy" version or have to custom order to fit the window size (wider or taller than they stock).

If you have to replace the whole thing and if this is a pretty common "standard" type of blind, it's possible that all you'll have to do is unclip the blind from the 2 or 3 metal or plastic mounts that hold it into the window frame and snap the new one into it. Compare the clips that come with the new one to the ones you already have up. They may be close enough for the existing clips to hold the new blind. If they look pretty close, give it a try. Don't force it too hard - you know about how much effort it took to get the old one out, that's approximately how much effort it should take to get the new one in. If you think you're exceeding the removal force to try to get it in, it's time to stop before you break something.

If you have to replace the clips, it's not difficult to unscrew the existing ones and screw in the new clips. You'd want to drill pilot holes for the mounting screws for the new clips to ensure you don't split the wood in the window trim. Note that it's possible that the existing holes may line up pretty well with the holes for the new mounting clips, even if the new clips are a different shape than the old ones, often they use slots instead of holes to allow for adjustment - use that to your advantage if you can. The hardest part is making sure that the clips line up square to the front of the window frame and are the same depth from the front of the frame (assuming the blinds mount inside the window frame). Take your time, measure and mark, then measure and double check your marks, then measure and triple check your marks. It's easier to change a pencil mark on the window frame by an eighth to a quarter inch than it is to make a new hole and eighth to a quarter inch away - you'll end up having to move the whole clip. (Not the end of the world, but you'll have more holes that you don't want to look at.)

Once you've got the pilot holes, it's simple to drive the screws and the new blinds simply snap into the clips.

The new blinds will come with exact instructions on how to install them, be sure to follow those for exact details.


Using a 50A plug and receptacle is allowed on a 40A circuit because of an exception in the Electrical Code.  The exception is because 40A receptacles do not exist, or rather, are not part of the NEMA standards. (There are enough varieties of receptacle already!)

The circuit breaker must be no larger than the wiring is fit for - if the wiring is 8 AWG, the breaker must be 40A (or smaller).   If the wire is 6 AWG, the breaker may be 40 or 50 amps (or any value up to 50A).  With large circuits like this, there is only one appliance per circuit.   I am not sure whether it is legal to plug a 40A rated appliance into a circuit breakered for 50A.  I would downgrade the breaker to 40A for an extra bit of safety.

This is a good time to look at the receptacle.  If it's an old NEMA 10-50 type, it does not have a ground wire, and any problem with the neutral can electrify the chassis of the stove, a potentially lethal situation.  A ground wire can be retrofitted using any viable route back to the panel. (Grounds don't have to travel with the conductors).  Then you can upgrade the connectors to NEMA 14-50 type and change the jumper on the appliance to use a separate ground.


Under no circumstances wooden columns should be placed on the ground. Connection between ground and column should be small metal element like this:

It would be best if you could make small concrete foundation which would be connected with this metal element with some anchor bolts


Yes, Aprilaire 2200 is what you need to replace the filter.

These air filters can be replaced one of two ways:

Replace the filter paper itself using the existing frame. The paper filter will accordion open to fit in the frame. This option is what the product you listed will do.
Remove the (probably plastic) frame and use a box-style filter to replace it. This stay has the accordion filter in a cardboard frame that you can insert into the furnace then close up. If you do this, just keep the plastic frame so you can go back to method 1 if you want.


Looks like the bracket was attached to the molding (?) with a screw that was too short.

Remove the bracket carefully.  You need to salvage the piece of the trim that the screw pulled out - the part behind the bracket.  Glue the trim back onto the molding, then patch with some wood filler, sand, and paint.

Reattach the bracket using a longer screw that goes through the wood trim, drywall (or plaster), and into the 2x4 that should be below the window itself.  Pre-drill the hole so that you don't split the trim.


Is WD-40 alright to use in freezers/places with food?

Replace the Fan.

If you insist on lubricating - Olive Oil works nicely.

EDIT 5-8-2017

You could buy food safe lubricants but they also might have unwanted odors and only allow for incidental contact with food.

Olive Oil on the other hand has been known to be a very good lubricant for a long long time at least as far back as the 12th Century, probably longer than that.

The Below Excerpt was copied from this Web Site PDF document:
"olive oil spreads easily and thoroughly over the rubbing surfaces.
Unlike the drying oils, it does not gum, taking up to seven days
to gain as little as 1.7 percent of its weight after exposure to the air.
Most important, olive oil stands up extremely well under pressure because of its viscosity and oiliness.
Not only can it surmount the thrusts of force-closure, but after the machine is set in motion it also maintains
coefficients of friction between 0.07 and 0.08 whether it is running between surfaces of wood and metal, wood and wood, or metal and metal.
Perhaps its only weakness is that it can become too acidic, especially if the olives are left to ferment too long before going to the press.
This disadvantage was overcome by simply pressing the olives as soon as possible.
Within Tuscany and its immediate vicinity, then, olive oil was known as an efficient lubricant that could endure great stress."


When dealing in watts and watt-hours, it helps to get your math right if you compute a single unit's capacity, then simply multiply by the number of units.  E.G.  Go 115AH x 12 (not 24) volts to get 1380 watt-hours per battery, then multiply by the number of batteries, 1380WH  x 4 = 5520WH whole pack.

I have no idea where you got 54V for 6 ra-220 panels in series (not parallel).  You seem to be assuming 9V per panel, at 30A, = 270 watts per panel.  See how much nicer "per unit" works?  It's now obvious something is wrong with the math, since these panels are only rated at 220-230W.  225W x 6 = 1350W, but that's perfect conditions.

For general design, focus on the watts. The MPPT controller will sort out the volts and amps.  However, you do need to make sure the "open circuit" voltage of the panels is appropriate for the MPPT controller.

Also, don't plan to bottom out the batteries if you're buying lead-acid.  They are happiest when they never drop below 70% charge (i.e. only using the top 30% of charge in the battery).  Dropping below 50% should be uncommon, and draining dead should be rare.  Doing so prematurely ages the battery.

If you want a battery you can frequently deep discharge and otherwise abuse, look at Nickel-Iron or Nickel-Cadmium (not NiMH).


This is symptomatic of a poor connection somewhere, or a bad-on-arrival fan.  I'd rewire the switches using the screw terminals as a first step (don't forget to hook the grounds up when you do), and if that does not cure it, I'd try Craig's troubleshooting suggestion of switching the fan and the light.  If the fan still acts up, then return the fan to wherever you bought it.  If the light acts up when switched with the fan, then I'd say it's a problem with a connection.


should I catch mice first before fix a broken crawlspace vent cover?

Critters can squeeze their bodies into any space their head will fit into.

Humans, not so much.

There are ways to fix and exit using flexible mesh that allows them to leave, but not return.

I watched one of those exterminator tv shows years ago and saw their setup. It was ingenious. You may find an episode or explanation on YouTube.

We had a turd of a neighbor kid who got mad at us and dumped her pet rats over our fence. The havoc they caused was a six-month battle of wills but I prevailed and they never got inside the house.

Glue traps are great if your a cold hearted so and so like me who doesn't lose sleep when they start screaming after they get stuck and before their nose does, suffocating the buggers. My husband couldn't handle it. So I had to go with snap traps.

Broke both thumbs and two fingers, but I got them put out. And replaced daily as the body count rose.

I suggest peanut butter. Just enough to coat the trigger mechanism, though. They are not stupid creatures and will steal your bait every chance they get.

For the bigger Norwalk rats, I used live traps and had a slick-sided barrel with enough water to make them have to swim...until they couldn't.

Check with your local animal shelter. They often have these things that you can borrow after leaving a refundable deposit to cover the trap should you not return it.

Again, unless you are willing to kill these things, you will never win the battle.

In the meantime, start putting steel wool in any opening you find and firmly attach metal mesh or sheet metal on both sides of the opening. Yes any left inside the barrier will die. And smell to high heaven. But you have to stop the flood in before you have a chance of beating the stragglers down.

Also, clean up anything that could be food. Secure wiring and check the insulation on any exterior wiring. They love that stuff.

If you have a zoo close by, see if they will let you buy lion or tiger poop. It will stop just about anything from coming around. And it stinks... it is poop... but you have to use everything available to win this war.

As an aside, steel wool in your weep holes, should you have any, will also help stop hornets and wasps (or bees) from entering there and nesting in your walls. Just replace it regularly as it does degrade.

Good luck. Put your game face on. This one is not for the weak willed.


Best option to fix cracks in ceiling with radiant heat?

I owned a Condo a few years ago with radiant ceiling heat, similar construction timeframe (I guess warm air fell in the '70s). We did not have any ceiling cracks, but skim coating or texturing the ceiling if you avoid screwing anything in should work fine, based on the experiences of others in our complex.

Our unit had had the heat fail in a few of the rooms, and we simply had wall heater units installed instead of trying to replace or repair the radiant heat. I don't think that the ceiling heat was worth the trouble, because at the floor, it was still always cold in winter, given that we had a ground-floor unit and weren't getting the benefit of someone else's ceiling heat.


How to attach deck when ledger board will be too low?

There's no reason at all that you can't install your ledger, then post up from it (or simply joist over it). You might still want to put a few fasteners through the upper rim joist to keep it snug against the brick, but they won't carry load. If the ledger needs to lap over the brick to achieve the correct height, space it out from the foundation wall with 1/2" or 3/4" treated plywood, as is appropriate.

That said, float your design past your local inspector (or a trusted builder) for approval. I can't see everything through the internet that might be relevant.


It's an antique wallpaper cutter:

Yours looks a little rusty, missing some parts, and it looks like you’ve had a replacement wheel that's a little bit smaller.


Knob/handle to turn shower diverter valve

Easy fix. You just need a Universal Diverter Handle. Home Depot has several options. Take the old one in with you and they will fix you right up or you can order online.


What type of contractor do I need for ventilation and ducts?

A Heating, Ventilation, Refrigeration, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) technician, should be able to handle the vents.  If there's electrical involved, you'll need an Electrician for that portion of the work. Though some HVAC companies may be able to handle the whole job.

If you don't want to dish out for an HVAC tech, you could likely handle it yourself with the purchase of a few hand tools. Specifically, you'll want a set of aviation snips (left, right, and straight), and a 5 blade crimping tool.  Duct seal mastics are all the rage, though a quality foil tape should work just fine.

If that doesn't appeal to you either, any local "handyman" should be able to do the vent work. Just make sure the person is licensed, insured, and registered with the Better Business Bureau® or some other similar organization.


How do I prevent flood waters from entering my house?

DA's comment is correct.  If water has gotten to your house all you can hope to do is minimize the damage...water WILL get in if it is up against the door.

The best bet (a picture of the area in question would be useful) would be to build up the ground around the house to add a barrier to keep water off the house in the first place.  That may or may not be feasible in your situation, this is where the picture would be handy.


Your instinct is correct:  this is a terrible job.  As Mongo says, have them redo it.  Also, you will never be able to keep it clean with the super deep and rough grout lines.
Im curious if this is similar quality to the rest of the job, or limited to the backsplash area?  Those tiny tile are hard to use, unless the pattern is attached to webbing first. (This looks like a custom pattern)


What is this plastic twist in the back of my washing machine?

Without opening it up, it's hard to say for sure, but from here my crystal ball says...
It's the mount point for some internal plastic piece.
Since you didn't indicate that it felt like something broke as you were playing with that piece, it's not likely that you've broken anything. Since you say it doesn't fit as tightly as it did before, it might make more noise now as something is allowed more movement than it is supposed to have.
I'd suggest that you use your favorite internet search engine to search for "Inglis <model number> parts diagram" to find the parts diagram for your particular washer. Once you've found it, you'll be able to look through the drawings to see what piece connects to the back of the cabinet, and you'll know how critical it is.
You seem to indicate that it took some force to pop the metal cabinet out of the plastic piece, it will probably take a similar amount of force to get it back in. Maybe, by looking at the drawings, you'll be able to figure out how to jimmy it so it will fit snugly back into place. Of course, if it's not making any additional/unusual noises when it runs, it might not be that critical that you get it firmly attached, but since the manufacturer seemed to think that it was important to attach it here, it would be recommended to see if you can get it snugged back into place.
Take this as a learning lesson - don't go fiddling with bits of machinery just because! The parts diagrams to just about everything are available somewhere online - if you're curious, search for that first. Of course, if you like fixing stuff, fiddle away!
Additional Pro-Tip™: That little white plastic piece to the left of and above your arrow holds some other plastic internal bit in place. Unless you're feeling like tearing down your washer to fit it back in place, don't try pushing that clip back through the metal - it's there for a reason.


There are guide books out there that help familiarize yourself with the codes, in easy forms. I know that the NEC (Electrical code) sells a handbook that breaks down and pulls out the important bits with pictures and additional information. It can be useful. Then there are also the Mike Holt books on understanding the NEC.

I'll just include this picture here as an example from a Mike Holt book:

To answer your question more clearly; yes, there are ways to learn the code without reading over every little bit of it and trying to cram it in. Then, like Ben said, an inspector would check everything. It's best to know how to do it right the first time though.


Measure flange distance from wall without removing toilet

The important dimension is from the wall to the centerline of the bolts that hold the toilet in place. Measuring from the base is inaccurate. The tightest I have installed a toilet from the wall is 11 1/2" or so, when the toilet was 12" rough in. If you have baseboard that is 3/4" thick, you measurement could be as tight as 10 3/4" from the baseboard.


Why does my switch trip the breaker after light fixture replacement?

You have a typical switch loop, like so (green is bare ground, which you may not have):

(source: do-it-yourself-help.com)

However, your white and black to the switch may be reversed. Really, it doesn't matter, though. Connect the white from the source and one of the switch legs to the fixture. Connect black from the source and the other switch leg.

To clarify, you want power running through the switch, then through the light, with no other possible path.

When you connected things the way you did, you set it up so that flipping the switch resulted in a direct short. That's bad, obviously. I suggest brushing up on basic electrical theory before tackling any more wiring projects.


Beeswax for lubricating hinges. How does it compare to other lubricants?

Anecdotally, I waxed (my default, on the belief that it stays put and works which prior experience had born out) a squeaky door hinge last year, and it quieted down for a short time, then resumed squeaking.

When I addressed it the next time, I used petroleum jelly - due to what I had handy, specifically the mentholated version (Vick's Vapo-Rub, no endorsement implied) and it has remained quiet since (which is a longer period of time than the wax worked for.)


Can I temporarily connect a dishwasher with hoses running along the floor?

There are a number of issues with the plan.

The biggest problem may be the routing of the water supply and drain across the door threshold. Wire covers are intended to cover wire, not hollow tubing. More importantly, the channels in them are usually not more than 3/4 high (most smaller) and will not fit a drain line. If you could find one large enough, it would pose a trip hazard at the doorway.

The next issue is the risk of damage to the tubing under the wire cover. You would need to ensure that the cover was rigid enough and stable enough to avoid both compression of the lines and tugging on the fittings (although you could put full or partial loops in the lines to avoid strain).

Dishwasher drain lines are usually fairly short, and the run you propose may be more than the dishwasher pump can handle. The hot water line is under pressure, so that would not be a problem, but I would consider using PEX to avoid crimping issues.

If you do this, you will still need to put in a branch on the drain and a branch with a shutoff valve on the water supply.

You may want to consider a portable dishwasher such as this type

Smaller ones are also available in countertop versions. They are wheeled to the sink for use, and attach to the faucet and drain over the lip of the sink. They can easily be taken with you and most can be converted to a built in when you are ready.


What kind of latch mechanism should I use for this movable ceiling under my deck?

I would look at seeing if you could use large size slider bolts. I used this type of device to provide the safety latch for a large hinged stairway I had built in my garage some 13 years ago. The stairway was raised and lowered via an electric winch and cable/pulley system but I added two of the slide bolts (one on each side) as a safety measure when the stairway was in the hoisted up position. The ones that I used had round bolts that were 5/8" in diameter had a slide throw distance of about 3". They were plated with a typical hardware silver color.

You may want to consider something like these power coated sliders for your application outdoors.

In addition I want to suggest that you also consider a secondary safety mechanism to prevent injury and property damage in the case that the sliders are not kept latched fully. This could consist of some short chains that are lagged to the deck support beam and engage the hinged section via a hook on the side or end. These chains could hang loose when the slide bolts are in place.


From what I have read it varies with the quality of the paint and the storage conditions,but 3-5 years is reasonable for unopened cans. Most of the evidence seems anecdotal. There always seems to be a case of someone using something 20 years old that they got for free and it lasted 30 years. There doesn't seem to be hard evidence from manufacturers saying that you will decrease service life by X number of years if stored for X number of months.I would do a test sample on something similar to your planned use, wood trim,drywall etc. Give it a day or so to see how the color match and texture looks. If it looks OK you have nothing to loose. If you buy new paint you will probable want to redo the whole wall so it will blend in. If the old paint doesn't match you'll have to redo the wall anyway


Replace the smoke alarm
A "double chirp" from a smoke alarm these days is indicative that the smoke alarm has failed internal self-testing (chamber checks) and thus needs to be replaced outright.


Pretty big electric shock when touching my lamp

No need to worry about you or your son, but the lamps were obviously done wrong, or at the very least the work was extremely shoddy.

Have them re-done by someone who knows what they are doing in your area.


That fluorescent socket is driven by a ballast, so we’re talking more than just a socket replacement.
Regardless, as Ed Beal says, do not put an Edison socket there, or some fool will put an incandescent in it and start a fire. The fixture is not insulated for that much heat.  Use a proprietary LED only socket like Gu10.
Also, building codes probably required non-Edison fixtures at construction time. You’d need to roll it back on resale.


What is this metal thing on my circuit breaker

It is a lock out device. It is to be able to turn the breaker off and lock it, so that an electrician can work on the circuit without worrying about it being turned on. Code requires this if a local disconnect is not available for some circuits.


Bridging gap between sink and drain pipe

You should measure the diameter of the pipe (both inside and outside diameter recommended) and then check if similar plumbing supplies in your area are available. You could even take piece "A" with you when you go shopping around.

What you want to look for is a piece similar to part "A" that comes on two pieces that fit together with a slip joint type of coupling. The following picture is an idea of what you want. The slip joint in the area indicated has a larger diameter so that the upper tail piece from the bottom of the sink can be cut to the right length but still slide in and out of the expanded area for final length adjustment.


They're also known as vacuum breakers, such as this one.  Some searching shows that they're available from Lowe's and HD (assuming you're in the US), but you should be able to find one in a store near you or online if not.


The smaller hole won’t be a problem on some homes this is done to reduce leaves from getting into the downspouts, I thought the undersized holes were strange on my last home that I had copper gutter installed and they used small holes and said this was to prevent leaves from getting in as easily and plugging the down spouts and lines to the holding cistern’s we used for watering.


How to backfill trench under slab in Los Angeles

You need to use a tamper and tamp each 6"-12" of fill as you go:

It is also important that you have a plan to tie the new concrete to the existing slab, to help prevent independent movement. For mine we drilled horizontally into the edges of the existing slab and used epoxy to set bent rebar rods into it, then tied those to the rebar grid for the new concrete.


why it consume power when all the MCBs are down?

The short answer is: It can't. The only way power can be consumed is if you have a complete circuit.

Someone has miswired something if you are getting current flow with all the circuit breakers turned off.

You need an experienced electrician to troubleshoot this problem. Apparently the one you called is not that good at it.

Good luck!


Can I safely remove/reattach the back of a fitted wardrobe?

It is probably safe, but I don't believe that you need to remove the screws. If you loosen the left screw on the L-bracket (the screw into the wall), it appears that the smaller piece with the keyhole will slide up.

Before I moved anything, I would take a step-stool, a flashlight, and a mirror, and see if I could see down the crack in the back. Maybe you can see where the outlet(s) are.

You might want to remove the doors before you move them. It will make them lighter and also less likely to damage something.

Finally, someone more familiar with the electrical code will need to help to decide how big the hole needs to be. It will probably depend on whether the wardrobes are considered to be "built-in" or if they are freestanding furniture that are screwed to the wall for safety. If they are considered to be built-in, recessing is often not allowed. Please add your country tag.


Can you attach a post base to a brick patio?

No. You won't get enough support. The bricks are just laying on the ground, held together by mortar. You need to cut out some mortar joints to open up room to dig a hole for the post. When done, re-mortar the bricks (you'll have to cut some to fit) back around the post.


Unable to drill into window lintel - what have I got wrong?

Plate steel has been used to support lintels when the span is over some distance.  That detail is obsolete now un the US but I'm not sure when they stopped doing it.  Now-days its plenty of re-bar and in lintels it is often caged.   Rebar should not be closer that two inches (5cm) to the edge of the concrete.  Maybe there is an engineered steel bracket embedded in the lintel.  Either way, you are likely running into steel.

They sell rebar eater bits, assuming that is what you hit,  they can cut through steel but if you hit the bar dead on then even a rebar eater is going to have some work do grind through it.  Only use them on rotary, percussion destroys the carbide teeth on them.  Maybe you can move your hole a little?  Maybe use a smaller inexpensive steel twist drill you don't mind throwing away in the same hole and observe chips that come out, looks like steel?


You have a serious house wiring issue, possibly a loose wire in one or more places.

There are several possible outcomes here, one of which is your house burning down.

Call an electrician, today.


The minimum bending radius for 1" Pex (the larger of your sizes) is listed as 9 inches. A typical 3" PVC sweep ell will have somewhere between 24 and 36" of radius. The only issue, then, is whether you can pull it. That will depend on the number of bends, number of tubes, and length of the run.


Hard to tell... Is that bare wood at the bottom of the door part of the door or part of the door frame?

It looks like part of the door. Either way it's rotted or at the very least just swollen up from moisture. You need to replace the whole door. It's not worth the trouble to try and repair just the section for such a small inexpensive door. You can get sheets of foam to cut to size and glue on the back. You may even be able to peel the old foam off the back?

The frame doesn't look to be in great shape either. Might just need to be repainted or some of it may need to be replaced with new pressure treated lumber.

Since everything is so low to the ground you need to keep it maintained so water doesn't deteriorate it. May also want to consider revising the frame a little to keep the door a bit higher off the ground while you're at it. Provided you have a big enough opening.


How can I properly support a raised concrete patio?

FWIW, that's technically called a "raised patio" rather than a deck. At 40' long, your challenge will be to prevent cracking...so I'd count on putting in expansion joints.

If you want to ensure a solid base, you need to use crushed rock and add it layer-by-layer mechanically compacting each layer before adding the next. That's going to be some work to get up to 12", but certainly doable. You'll likely raise it in 3-4 layers.

At that point, you're essentially building a slab-on-grade foundation. So you shouldn't need any actual foundation walls.

All that said, check with local code first!

Note, however, that if you're ultimately capping with stone, you really don't need all that concrete on top. You need a retaining wall to retain the layers of compacted rock, but you can then place the stone right on top of that on top of a layer of sand.


How can I provide power to a switch and outlet at the same time?

Those aren't spares
We get this all the time.  People see multiple wires bundled up in a wire nut, and they go "Oh, those are SPARE wires, I'll just grab one of them".
No, unless you're in a post-2011 switch loop, there are no "spare" wires in electrical.  Every wire has a job to do.
The other misconception we get a lot of is "Those wires in the box exist only to serve my project right now".  No, the wires have lots of jobs.
You need to tap, not break, that neutral
The switch doesn't need neutral, but the receptacle does.  And because the neutral bundle is already there, you need to tap it.
The vexation for novices is they rarely have the needed supplies: you need a neutral pigtail, and that requires having a 6" length of white wire. And a wire stripper and sometimes, a larger wire-nut.  The neutral goes to the silver terminal on the switch-recep.
Cutting the black wire was unnecessary.  However, it's no big deal; this is the always-hot wire, and it goes on the side of the switch that has 2 screws bridged with a tab.   You have 2 screws, you can just put 1 wire on each.
The switched-hot (red in your case) goes on the remaining switch screw,  the lonely brass screw.
Hold on though!  You need GFCI in a bathroom!
Unless there's a GFCI device protecting this location, you must use a GFCI+receptacle+switch device.  Fortunately for you, that is a thing.   You will not use the "Load" wires on the GFCI+switch.  So you only have 2 screw terminals to deal with, plus 2 pigtail wires.

You will need to pigtail HOT with a big, red or tan wire nut.  You will have 4 wires coming together:  the 2 blacks that  you split, plus one of the 2 pigtail wires out of the GFCI, plus a pigtail that goes to the GFCI's brass "Line" screw.
You will not need to pigtail neutral.  GFCIs can take 2 wires under each screw using a method called "screw-and-clamp" (read the instructions).  You can land the 2 existing neutral wires in the backwire holes under the GFCI's silver LINE screw, and that's done and dusted.
The remaining GFCI pigtail needs to go to the red wire from the wall, which is switched-hot.
The GFCI will pick up ground via its mounting screws, because it has a feature called "self-grounding" (via the mounting screws).  If ground exists, that is.
Again, the GFCI "Load" terminals are not used.  Using them is a huge production you don't wanna get into.


It depends on 1) how high your washing machine pump can eject water and 2) how high your existing drain already is. You have to be especially cautious with upright (non-high efficiency) washers as they dump a lot of water very quickly with each cycle and this can overwhelm a slow drain even if it meets code.

In the worst case scenario, you’ll need a gray water pump to help pump the wastewater out to the drain location. Any plumber should be able to help you with that.

Note that your dryer will also have a maximum distance, height, and number of air ducting bends that its vent motor can handle.


Ceiling Light, Dimmer off does not totally turn off light

Read the instructions for the switch. It states it is designed for incandescent lamps. This technology runs a small amount of power through the load to function it is not visible with incandescent lamps but is with LED’s because they take a small fraction of the power to illuminate. So that small amount of current is the cause of the lamp not shutting completely off.


How to remove Paint buildup where I removed chair rail on an orange peel wall

You are going to need to use a sharp tool such as a very sharp chisel or a straight blade razor scraper. I prefer a very sharp chisel as I feel it gives me better control.  It is not going to be easy, but as carefully as you can cut down and sideways from the painted area. The idea will be to cut the hump of dried paint off without too much damage to the drywall. Once you get the feel of it, you can control the "planing" cuts with your chisel. Sand down any irregularities and then use some Spackle to fill any gouges or remaining dips.  Sand for a final finish.  This method may not give perfect results.

The second way, and most work but better results is to completely cut out the paint line with a utility knife leaving a "V" indent on the wall. After making your "V" cut out on the entire paint line,  use joint compound to refinish the damage.


Conduit Fill and Derating for THHN Cables (outdoor run)

I highly recommend using 20A for both circuits

Typically 2 bathroom circuits means lights + receptacles:

Lights - This can also be exhaust fan, or heater fan. Lights and exhaust fan don't need much power, but a heater fan does. So even if you don't plan on a heater fan now, I suggest planning for the future by running 20A instead of 15A.
Receptacles - This should be 20A to allow for usage of multiple devices. One 20A circuit won't allow for "anything" (e.g., 2 x full 15A devices (which would actually be 12A continuous = 24A for 2) at the same time), but it will give a much lower chance of nuisance trips than 15A.

  Since I will be converting the THHN/THWN-2 cable to Romex 12/2 or 14/2, is it okay to join the green sheathed grounding cable of the former type with the bare copper one from the romex?

Yes, that is fine. All grounds together - doesn't matter green or bare.

Also remember that the connections must be in an accessible junction box.

  If I use 12 gauge THHN on both circuits, am I limited to using only 12 gauge romex inside the house? This is what I am assuming, but just want to make sure.

The limit is based on the breaker. If you use a 20A breaker, then all wire must be 12 (or larger). If you use a 15A breaker, then you can use 12 and/or 14 (or larger, but why?), but a mix could confuse someone working on it in the future - i.e., if they see 12 connected to a 15A breaker then they might think it can be upgraded to 20A, when it can't because part of the circuit is only 14.

  Is there a benefit to using stranded vs solid THHN?

Yes, easier to pull. Probably not much of an issue for what appears to be a pretty short run.


Type of valve to use on PVC misting system

I don't think you need to be concerned with using an anti-siphon device, as the potential for contamination is minimal (compared to water making contact with the soil).

If you want to automate then use an in-line solenoid controlled valve without anti-siphon, then you don't have to worry about the remaining water standing in the pipe length from running back out of it:


It could be a loose fitting or the overpressure valve kicking in, but not likely.

The tanks in most water heaters eventually corrode, how fast depends on a number of factors, one of which is the amount and type of minerals in the water, as well as its acidity.

Once they do leak, repair is generally impractical and a new water heater is needed.

In any event, you need a plumber to check it out and solve the problem.


Why does my shower keep alternating between freezing and boiling by itself?

We spoke to a plumber. Speaking off-record, he thought the problem might not be related to the new tap but may be incidental.

We now think its because of the pressure in our boiler. About a week after I posted this question, the pressure reached zero. We didn't realise that we had low pressure until it briefly stopped working! After re-pressurizing it, the shower temperature seems to behave reasonably. We still have an over-sensitive tap, but at least the shower temperature no longer changes by itself!

If you have this problem as well, check that the pressure in your boiler is within the expected range. For us, that's between 1 and 1.5 millibars.


How can I tell if the home I just bought has real wood countertops?

No, you have wood veneer over particle board with wood edge banding and backer sheet.
You have to be careful if you are going to sand /refinish as you don't want to (you most likely will) go through the veneer. Veneer can be 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch thick.


Fans move air. If you need to move air in this apartment then fans will be your friend. Putting fans in windows will be the most sure way to get air to flow in or out without it just circulating around inside.

There are downsides of using portable fans:

Fans make noise.
Fans in windows project some of the noise outside which may annoy neighbors.
You will have to deal with cords strung over to an outlet to power the fan(s).
Fans consume electrical power so will have some impact on your utility bill.
Some types of fans may represent a safety hazard unless they are equipped with proper grills and screens to keep body parts away from spinning fan blades.
Fans in windows may obscure views or light coming in.

Some advantages:

Portable fans are for the most part are relatively cheap.
You can position the fans experimentally to achieve the result you need.
Moving air will feel cooler than stagnant air.
There may be seasons where the fans are not needed and it is easy to store a portable fan away till needed again.


Trying to understand "smaller" in 334.15 Exposed Work and across joists

It means actual size, not designator number.
6/3 is larger than 8/3 or 6/2, you do not need to bore holes or use running boards on the ceiling. Running down a wall requires protection.


What could cause a bad oil-like smell every time the heat is on?

Your question concerns me. I'm a general contractor and have had many new heating systems installed for customers and have NEVER had this complaint from anyone. As a matter of fact, I just had a complete change over from oil to natural gas done at my private home two weeks ago. I have never smelled any residue from cutting oil used to thread pipe. My sub contractor is very conscientious about cleaning all excess oils and pipe joint compounds. Also, before any gas can be turned on, an extensive test of pressure and inspection of all black pipe and outlet fittings is done. There is absolutely no reason to have any fumes.

The other reason for my concern is that you smell this when you call for heat. My first concern is that you may be getting some exhaust or carbon monoxide leakage. Do you have CO and explosive gas detectors installed? If not, get them installed immediately! If your contractor won't take your complaints seriously, then call the gas utility and ask them to check it out. Tell them you suspect a leak, and they will be there in a heart beat!

I should ask, what kind of furnace unit/heater are we talking about? Vented, unvented? Give us a bit more info and maybe we can narrow down the possibilities.


Can I add a light fixture (with a switch) to an existing switch/outlet circuit?

You'll need to tap power at the receptacle box

Since power is coming in at the receptacle end of this circuit according to your diagram, you'll need to tap power to the new switch and light there, as that's the only place in this you'll find always-hot and neutral -- any point from the existing outlet to the existing switch won't have neutral, just always-hot and switched-hot.


Tile veneer cabinets / fix veener damage

Yes, you can tile on this surface - just like you can tile directly upon primed drywall. All tile needs is a sound surface - wood, drywall, cement, backer board, Denshield, plywood, brick etc.


Just to answer your question, no, air should not be escaping from that red fitting. That is an extra drain pan fitting, maybe for a shutoff valve if the condensate backs up. Make sure the air is coming from that fitting and not from the cabinet around the PVC pipes. Try tightening the pipe and if that doesn't work, wrap some teflon tape around the fitting and screw it back in.
As mentioned in the comments, this will not have any effect on your air flow as the volume of air is so small. Check that the filter is the right size and that the blades of the blower fan are clean. this can really affect the efficiency for the blower.


UK Nest Installation - Underfloor heating including floor temperature sensor/cutoff

If and only if Nest is now producing a thermostat that is designed specifically for in-floor heating.  All thermostats and or controllers that control the water temperature that flows through the floor have a microprocessor and algorithms coupled with actual temperature sensors embedded right in the floor that will in real time design an on & off strategy or a mixing strategy that will heat the room adequately without over-heating the floor surface.  This is a very sophisticated process.

The Nest thermostat as I understand it is really long on programming capability and the ability to control the heat from a remote location.  It also works well with a home automation system.  But this Nest thermostat simply will turn the heating system on and off. There is a whole other class of thermostat with a whole lot of other functionality that is required to control floor heating systems. Hope this helps.


CLR works great for getting rid of line deposits. It can be used as a general washing machine cleaner when added to the machine (with no clothes) and run through a cycle.
As far as your dryer is concerned, check the vent pipe for blockage, especially where it exits your house. Many have screens that can get blocked by lint over a long period of time.

This is copied from the CLR website:

Depending on whether you have a front or top loading machine, your directions for adding CLR are different. In both cases, though, do not use detergent or have clothes in the washer when you are using CLR. With a top loading machine, run your machine up to the main wash cycle and just before the machine starts to agitate, stop the machine. Add a ½ cup of CLR into the tub of the machine and finish the cycle.

When cleaning front loading machines, though, you need to change how you add the CLR. In front loading washing machines, the door locks once you begin the cycle. As a way around this issue, add a ½ cup of CLR to the machine where you normally would add your detergent or softener and run your machine.

With both types of washers, once the cycle with the CLR has finished, run an additional full cycle with just water. If your machine is high efficiency or “water saver” only use ¼ cup of CLR.


Search inside the kitchen cupboards, especially under the sink.  If that doesn't turn up anything, some idiot probably drywalled over it when they did some "improvements" before flipping the house.

In that case, you may have to drill some small holes in the walls to find it.  You can get pretty cheap (like under $30) USB inspection cameras you can hook up to a laptop, so you only have to make small holes to look around.

Once you find it, you can cut the drywall away and make it accessible.  Google "access panel" for ready made doors to mount over it.  If you want to be really nice to future you, put a label behind the fridge describing where the valve is.


How can I finish off a three gang switch with one switch missing?

I can't speak to the codes portion of your question, however my husband has been changing out our builder's outlets to z-wave since we moved in.

As long as your wires are capped off (I'll assume tapped off is the same thing) how about putting on a 3-gang switch plate with 1 blocked?

Hubs did this recently with a 2-gang. It leaves all the wires accessible behind the plate should you need/want access to them for a future project while still closing off/shutting down the area that's not longer in use.


Humidistat Fans - Are they useful at all?

I would agree that a humidistat is only needed in bathrooms and possibly kitchens.
Some might say this is opinion but my moms 2 bathrooms did not have fans, after taking a shower the large picture window in the living room would fog up with condensation during the winter especially. I added exhaust fans and vented both bathrooms and the condensation on the picture window was eliminated.
If there were a problem with the flooring the humidistat would be helpful.
As far as if needed in other parts of the home I don’t think the hallway will be doing much good (it’s not a space we hang out in). If there were another area that might benefit from an exhaust it would be the bedrooms.
We exhale moist air and although not at the level of a bathroom I do know some folks that have dehumidifiers in there bedrooms to reduce moisture and mold growth issues (oregon= rain, mold, slugs) but I haven’t seen flooring issues and many old homes have T&G flooring but are leaky compared to modern homes so there may be an issue but I haven’t seen it.
So I would agree that a stay in the hallway is a waste.


AC continues to run for several minutes after shutting off

This is basically a safety feature.  In the case of heating, if the fan turned off immediately after turning off the thermostat, the heat buildup in the heat exchanger could cause it to eventually crack and leak carbon monoxide into your house, so the fan continues to blow until the heat exchanger sufficiently cools.  In the case of the A/C, there's no danger of carbon monoxide. But if the various coils in the A/C were allowed to heat too rapidly, that could also cause their premature failure, so the fan continues to blow air across them until they're within a few degrees of ambient.  If this were able to be disabled and you could find an HVAC tech to do so, I wouldn't hire him or her, nor the company for which they worked.


How can I locate an odor emanating from the kitchen/laundry area?

How can I locate an odor...?

Don't underestimate the detection abilities of your nose!  Get on your hands and knees, and stick your nose right into every nook and cranny.  Closing your eyes will help make your nose seem more sensitive.  Smell along edges, cracks, baseboards, pipe cutouts, switch plates, jambs, sills, light fixtures, drains, and anywhere there's a gap or mating of any kind.  Pull out the frig, dishwasher, washing machine, dryer, or remove their base plates and check underneath with a flashlight.  Check the washer drain hose and drain pipe.  Pull out all drawers in case something fell inside the cabinets.  Don't forget outside walls too.  Check any attic or basement or crawlspace.  Cover every inch, and sooner or later you'll zero in on where the smell is definitely strongest.  The source can't be far away.


Cover & sound-suppression for doorbell transformer in utility closet

The best way to eliminate transformer noise is to purchase a quality transformer.
The noise is because the laminated core is heavily loaded or overloaded and the plates are actually vibrating because of eddy currents. I can’t quite make out the size, but it looks like 24V, 20VA. I would bump it up to a 24V, 40VA unit that would be compatible with video doorbells and probably a lot quieter. Usually, hard mounting is fine unless the core is coming apart or overloaded so going to a new larger one fixes both problems.


How long should concrete set for a post before I perform additional work?

The 28 days mantra is a bit misleading. Concrete cure times vary widely depending on environmental factors and mix. It's often at 80% or more by a week.

That said, we don't know much about your pour. If you have 4" of concrete around the post, it's fairly fragile and drilling could crack it. If you  have 8 or 12", it's much more robust and would probably tolerate drilling just fine, if you keep pressure light. All this depends on adequate moisture having been provided and temperature maintained.

Add more information for more detail in answers.


Stacking new drywall on top of drywall that is behind tile

Add blocking and run the sheets horizontal or vertical with a j trim bead. Fill gap with mud. Paint then caulk the tile to drywall transition


Compression fitting with copper nut and plastic pipe keeps leaking

With plastic pipe compression fittings usually come with an insert made of metal or hard plastic.  The compression nut and ferrule (generally plastic for plastic pipe) is placed over the pipe, then the insert is pushed into the end of the pipe.  When the joint is tightened the insert prevents the plastic pipe from collapsing as the ferrule bites in.  Without the insert it is very difficult to make a compression connection in plastic watertight.

See the second question in the FAQ on this page: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/ed-compression.html


EMT all the way, or start with IMC outside and transition to EMT inside the building?

Sorry, there are no single solid answers to most of your questions.
To transition from IMC or RMC to EMT usually we just fit together a rigid threaded coupling and an EMT  connector. They make a fitting that I never used, but have heard rumors that some AHJ's require them. Some of that problem can be avoided by using an LB outside where it enters the building, which also eliminates the sweep question. Just be aware most LB's are internally marked at a maximum wire size (for bending radius) that is less than maximum conduit fill.
It is a lot easier to cut EMT to the exact length you need versus trying to miss structural members with threaded pieces and sweeps. Rigid/IMC should nearly butt in a coupling, but it doesn't always seem to measure out that way.
On the other hand a raintight EMT coupling is at least 9 pieces, that don't fit together well, and a couple of those parts are easily damaged, wasting the whole part.
I would seriously evaluate the size of conduit you are running, 2" could be overkill, and complicate fitting and increasing cost with little benefit.
1.5" conduit will get you 3@3/0, even aluminum will get you single phase 175A.


Can I disconnect a dishwasher from a GFI and leave the circuit otherwise intact?

So your Dish washer is wired through as a load or wired in parallel and down line from the GFCI ?

Just curious your reason why you want to do this? Perhaps there might be another issue you have and your resolution might need some additional information so you can accomplish all your goals correctly ?

Now after those questions the answers based on just disconnecting the washer.

Yes you can un-wire the dish washer from the GFCI as long as nothing unusual was done in the initial wiring. In other words the GFCI must be up-line from the dish washer as one would expect in a proper installation.

If the installation was not proper you can still do what you want, but will need to rework your wiring to the GFCI.


Ah, I think I’ve found the answer:

Admitting cold outdoor air into a space will lower the indoor RH. When the lower temperature outdoor air is brought indoors and heated, it loses moisture and reduces the overall RH.
For example: if the outdoor temperature is 0°F and 50% RH and the air comes indoors and is heated to 70°F, the residual moisture after heating the outdoor air will only be about 3% RH. Even on a nice, sunny 35°F and 50% RH day, the residual indoor RH will only be about 14%.

So by heating the cold, high-RH outdoor air up, the RH content drops tremendously. By introducing this extremely low-RH air into the house, you can expect the indoor RH to plummet.


Moulding descriptions have a 2-3 letter acronym in their description (eg. LWM, WM, WG) - what do they stand for?

Thanks for clarifying your motivation behind asking. If your goal was to learn a universal nomenclature of moldings, I was bringing bad news:

My 25 years of directly related experience has uncovered no such uniformity. The only way to clearly and universally designate moldings is by function.size, and description of profile. For less common items and large orders, a builder is wise to approve full scale rendering or physical sample.

Alpha designations for moldings [in my area] are unique to the mill that cut them. If commonality exists beyond that, it goes unnoticed, especially in the field. There are a few numbers that are widely repeated, though I haven't found anyone that knows their origin; even  at the big stores, you'll find "356" and "444" casing.

in a given locale, it's usually understood what is expected to be in a house, and it's reflected in the limited variety of locally available stock. A deviation would simply be specified by its difference, e.g., "flat" casing; "3 bead" screen. As is typical in trade terminology, there will also be some regional variations in common terms. Around here you'd hear "speed base" to refer to the contractor grade mdf ogee baseboard.

Overall sizes are pretty standard (though called on both nominally and diminsionally), as are some shapes (though sometimes described instead of named). Basic crown molding are 2⅝", 3⅝", 4⅝", etc." Colonial "(traditional) or *cove" . Typical baseboard is 3½", 4½", 5½", etc "Ogee". Perhaps it's "base with cap".Casings are 2¼", 3¼", 4¼,, and may be called by "flat", "2-step"/"3 step,." Shelf edge", or nosing, is screen mold, "flat", "2-bead", or "3-bead".

Of course, all of this is period relevant, both in terms of style and nomenclature. Not long ago, "base and case" was interchangeably used to trim "doors and floors".

Anyone in the business of dealing with these products should be able to communicate through description using basic profile features such as cove, bead, shoulder, flat, thumbnail, etc. Additionally, some shapes have several variations, like the Ogee. They're based on academically recognized architecture styles.

These are just some examples. Should be  at least as clear as mud! I know it doesn't answer your specific question (as I don't know that it has an answer), hopefully  it is  helpful in some capacity.

Im always interested to learn the experience of others. Perhaps we might find some evidence of a more universal rsal commonality!


Something in my home is making my family sick. How do I determine what it is?

There could be several factors that may be contributing to the situation. It sounds like an air quality problem. This could be caused by airborne mold spores, chemical contamination from bad paint or flooring adhesives (VOC's) etc. , CO from a malfunctioning heating or A/C unit or something from outside getting in. I have had to address this problem with some customers in the past. We contracted an air quality testing from a local environmental testing lab. In your case, I would first consult with the management of the property. Explain the situation, confirm your conversations in writing, (document, document, document) and see if they will contract this service. If they won't for some reason, then I would have it done privately. Depending on the results and plan for mitigation, these costs should be reimbursed by the landlord. At minimum, it would give just cause to break the lease. If the results are bad and the management won't work with you, share the results with your local code enforcement office as they may help you and require the management to fix the problem.
Once the type of irritant is identified, then the cause will be much easier to find.  Good Luck.


Pneumatic die grinder or electric rotary tool

Pneumatic may be lighter weight, but you need a compressor that can keep up with it, and the exhaust airmay be a good or bad thing depending on what you're doing. On the other hand, compressors have other uses too.

A third option would be a flex-shaft tool.

Before buying any of them, know what you're going to do with it. Unless you have a specific task you need it for, you might be better advised to invest in a completely different kind of tool.


Maytag Model- La612 Series 04 fills up on it's on and then starts running by it's self

If its running (agitating, changing gears, etc) its not the water valve, its the master control switch.  Its getting a ghost signal to begin the wash process, or its just faulty.  I would suspect the latter.


What are some alternatives for a glass stove top replacement?

Tempered glass is almost impossible to cut without shattering it after it's tempered, so you'd have to find a piece exactly the right size.  And even then I don't know if it would withstand high temperatures -- in fact it may get hot enough to un-temper it, in which case it would be a lot weaker and likely to break in normal use.

I have no idea if you can cook straight on the burners, but my guess is that since they're normally covered by ceramic glass, they're not constructed to support much weight.  Also I suspect they get a lot hotter than the glass surface does on a non-broken cooktop, so you'd be looking at an increased risk of fire if something spilled over.

I did a quick search and found a few online used appliance part suppliers, but I didn't check to see if any had that part available and at what price.  You might also call a few local appliance shops to see if they have any ideas on used parts.

A nationwide Craigslist search turns up many instances of that model stove for sale, all at prices lower than your price for a new part.  Sadly your most cost-effective option  may be to toss this one and buy a used one.


How do I sweat pipes in an enclosed area?

I bought a piece of fireproof 'cloth' at the hardware store. I'm not sure what's in it - fibreglass? In any event, it's about 10x10 (or less) and you can just slip it behind the thing you are working on (I usually duct-tape it to the wall behind) and it protects the wall. I actually cut a slot in mine so that I could slip it around a pipe stub where the stub came out of the wall.


Air handler unit stops running. Starts when motor touched with metal

I had a similar issue and could have sworn it was mechanical/electrical.  I had a service man come in and he removed the air filter from the handler.  It started right up afterwards (i am unsure if there was a reset switch he had to trip).  He mentioned that my air handler will shut off if there is a great enough pressure difference between the supply and handler sides of the filter.  Never thought of that but worth a try before you spend the monies!


First: yes you need to remove  all the rust before repainting, or the paint will just flake off as the rust continues.

Next: you need to make sure that there's some "body" left after initial sanding/scraping of rust, or you might as well replace the sheets.  You also need to verify that all rust is on the top, i.e. there's no leaking and bottom-side rust (or you'll need to fix the leaks).

Assuming all that went "ok,"  then sand & scrape all the loose rust off, and do your best to sand off the rest.  Paint all exposed areas (with rust pits or not) with a "rust reducer" paint, available at any hardware store.  Typically these go on white and cure black; they both reverse the oxidation (rust turned back into iron) and provide a good surface for painting.   Then put down whatever color of metal-compatible paint you want.


One outlet in house is hot while turning all breakers off

Definitely dangerous. The main breaker is for a very high amperage (like 100 amps). If there's no other breaker between the main breaker and the outlet, a high amperage would be needed to trip it.

I doubt the wires to the outlet could be sized appropriatedly. And I doubt it is allowed to have a regular outlet on a high amperage breaker.

Maybe a sub-panel or a breaker you missed ?


Make sure the earth is connected to the copper pipe and you will be fine. Where exactly the earth is connected on the pipe doesn't matter as long as there is a low resistance path from the earth pin to any exposed metal that houses the live wires.

To make sure it's properly earthed take a multimeter and check continuity between the earth pin on the plug and every exposed copper part.


How should I insulate a poured concrete exterior wall?

I would glue durafoam to the concrete first like you said.Then like you said put up a wall using 2x4s for the 3 1/2" insulation. Then use unfaced insulation,then a vapor barrier then the sheetrock. If you want to use paperbacked insulation then do not use a vapor barrier afterwards before putting up the sheetrock. If you put up two vapor barriers there will be a strong possability of trapping moisture between the vapor barriers. And moisture means mold.


Do I really need an expansion gap around the entire hardwood floor?

Yes you need to keep expansion room at the walls for the flooring to move. Particularly at the walls that meet the long sides of the flooring, this is where the movement really occurs. In your picture you have the end grain of a piece meeting your transition strip. That will be no concern for movement there, although I would still get a small gap, minimally an 1/8", most certainly not tight, since the wood does move albeit slightly, in its length. That mainly depends on how much "grain runoff" is in any one piece of flooring, an 1/8" should cover it though. This gap at the wood floor/tile junction is caulked with a flexible caulk, something like, but I am not stuck on the Dap 230 in a compatible color of the grout in the tile floor. You are not done yet. Before ANY caulk is done, the joint area is carefully taped off so nothing gets on the adjacent finished surfaces. The caulk is set in place and wiped down to a clean WET joint. while it is wet have the grout on hand that was used to grout the joints in your tile floor and lightly dust the wet caulk so it dries into the caulk. This will give the caulk that varied natural look of grout, instead of the monocolor that caulk alone can't do. Peel the tape immediately after dusting and let dry, then vacuum the excess dust, the rest will remain.

You may decide to use a ready made color matched sanded caulk, that may work, but I have removed this type of caulk before and it is not as flexible as the "230" I mentioned before. No I am not an affiliate of DAP, I just know what works....