Does copper wire need to say it's copper?

The UL publishes a guide on wire and cable markings:

UL Marking and Application Guide
https://www.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/WC_MG.pdf

  Conductor Material

  Compact stranded copper conductors are identified by “compact” or “cmpct,” otherwise wire and
  cable with bare or coated copper conductor material is not marked with stranding identification.

  If the conductor material is either aluminum or copper-clad aluminum, the product, tag or carton
  markings (depending on the product category) identify the conductor material. These markings
  will appear as “AL,” “ALUMINUM,” “AL (CUCLAD),” “ALUMINUM (COPPER-CLAD),” “CU-CLAD
  AL” or “COPPER-CLAD ALUMINUM.”
  For some wire and cable, other metals may be used as conductor material. The associated
  markings for that wire and cable are explained under the heading “OTHER.”

The "default" is indeed copper.

However, the AWM in the marking would lead me to believe this may be something other than building wire per NEC:

  This guide does not address wire and cable evaluated only for suitability as factory-installed
  component wiring in other Listed equipment. Those products are Recognized by UL under the
  Component-Appliance Wiring Material (AWM) and Component-Nonshielded cable categories and
  are not identified with an NEC® wire Type designation.


Wooden bed sidebar to headboard screws loose, wobbly joints

I'd think using the bolt designed for exactly this job would be the way to fix this, rather than following a poor design choice by whoever built the bed.

Bed Bolts are machine bolts (metal to metal threads) that mate with a cylindrical "nut" that goes into a drilled cross hole in the side rail. The bedframe to rail job is what they were designed to do (though they have other uses, once you are aware of them.)

Further detail - OK, those are "modern" bed bolts, for some reason I more easily found images of "old" style bed bolts with normal square nuts, which are a huge pain to actually use in a wooden bedframe  than this "modern" style bed bolt pictured above.


What is this item? Unknown device in old laundry closet in newer construction house

It looks to me like a drain clean-out. If your drain pipes clog deep in the system, the cap can be removed to get a fairly straight shot down to the common sewer for a roto-rooter-type machine.

You should probably find a new location to add one in  its place.


What type of water pump is also a valve (e.g. will resist head pressure when off)?

I believe the term you are looking for is a positive displacement pump.

However, such a pump is not generally constructed using an impeller and such a pump is only sometimes used for liquids.

Here is a link to a brief discussion of the characteristics of centrifugal pumps versus positive displacement pumps:

http://www.pumpschool.com/intro/pd%20vs%20centrif.pdf

For low pressure water applications a centrifugal pump and check valve in series are usually used to prevent back flow.


How do I divert rain water off of property?

Common and relatively easy solutions tend to be done with a combination of french drains and drywells.

French Drain

A french drain is a drainage system that helps prevent runoff past the drain line. For example

in this rather crude drawing, the top of the image is a higher elevation than the bottom. Water will form runoff going toward the house in the drawing. By putting a french drain along the uphill side, and running alongside the house, the drains intercept the runoff and channel it toward the outflows (which currently go into nothing, but don't do that).

French drains are basically trenches that contain perforated drain pipe under a layer of loosely-packed rock. You can see a drain cross-section here.

Drywells

A drywell isn't strictly necessary if you can take the outflow ends of the drain and go directly to a storm drain or some place where you don't care about standing water (ex. a lake or pond), but there are also concerns with eutrophication when considering residential runoff, so make sure you are complying with local regulations if you decide to make your water someone else's problem.

A drywell, however, is an elegant way to store all that wonderful rainwater your drains just collected.

A drywell is basically the same as the drain, but instead of going somewhere, it doesn't. You don't want these too close to any structures, which is why it's drawn away from the house, but it needs to be connected to the drains (black connecting boxes). Those drain pipes can be simply buried without needing the gravel/rock trench to extend all the way from the drain trench to the drywell. This also allows you to place the drywell (almost) wherever you want, but a low-lying area is best.

A drywell can be made in a variety of ways to suit your aesthetic. You can get plastic tubs as a preformed well, you can just dig a hole and fill it with loosely-packed rocks, you could do something even more creative.

Of course, your situation (and mileage) may vary. Instead of an impermeable driveway, you could have installed a permeable driveway. Many of these act as drywells because of their construction. The aggregate bedding can store excess rainwater. You could also attempt to replace much of your soil with something that drains better, like sand as opposed to clay. That might even work into your landscaping plans, but could be much more complicated if not.

Ultimately, you're just trying to move water to a more convenient location. French drains and drywells tend to do that pretty well.


Connecting the drain hose of a clothes washing machine to a wider drain pipe

32mm equals 1.25" USA. Standard 1.25" drain pieces can be obtained at any hardware,Home Depot, Walmart, etc. You could buy another 1-1/4" desanco fitting x 1-1/2" abs or pvc piping. Use the 2 desanco pieces with their washers and jamb nuts back to back and convert to a stand pipe with the 1-1/2" abs or pvc and dump the washing machine drain hose into the stand pipe.


Is the result of my lead paint test kit positive or negative?

Welcome and nice first post

You look good. Occurring to 3M a positive will have a distinct red color right away. The test also is not colorless, I personally think for the user to tell where it has been applied and that something is indeed being put on the paint surface

Here is a video about it from 3M


Oh no, send that cheap Cheese piece of junk back to Alibaba.

  Note: The dimming feature not workable for the LED and engergy [sic] saving bulb

That is terrible English. They didn't even bother falsifying a mark from a reputable testing lab, they just faked FCC cert (most do) and CE mark (which is only a manufacturer's promise anyway, and falls short of true safety testing standards, let alone the testing itself.)

This thing is not for LED (which presumably you will want to use at some point), is unlisted and not safe or legal for sale in the UK, and due to the neutral wire isn't even a correct fit for your application.  Get rid of it.

Get a workable neutral-less LED dimmer at a reputable vendor like Wickes, or one made by a reputable maker that is "ships from and sold by Amazon.com".  EBay/Alibaba-AliExpress are right out, even if they claim to be reputable brands, they may be rejects or counterfeit.


How to prevent DIY Activated carbon from throwing a layer of scum on top of water?

Filter carbon needs to be packed and prewashed to remove fine dust. "Crushing it and dropping it in" is fine if you are an old sailor on an old ship burning some ship's bread to drop into the nasty cask of fresh water - not so much if you want the water to be crystal-clear.


How do I change/paint the color of a closet door floor guide

You are probably right, spray painting is not a long term option. But if you can't find this piece manufactured in black, spray painting might be your only option. That being said, I would make sure you prime it first (just google spray paint primer) followed by a couple thin coats of black paint. Over time the inside "tracks" will probably wear down, but you shouldn't see much of the inside once the doors are installed. The outside facing bracket should hold up fairly well, though. Sorry I'm not coming up with a better solution, but sometimes it just helps to talk through your project. Good luck!


Running the coaxial cable through the wall from an ANTENNA NOT A CABLE BOX

You can poke a hole in the wall and push the cable through the hole , no box is required (this is how a cable company will do it), I usually use a low voltage ring like a wbf-1 this provides a way to mount a cover plate.
Make sure to seal the entry cable and hole with a quality silicone sealer.
Your needs for a TV cable box depends on what you have available in your area. At my last home on the side of a mountain I had great digital reception. One of my tv’s had the decoder built in and I purchased a box for ~$10.00 for another. So it depends on your area so we won’t know the answer to that one.


Is it possible to replace a ceiling fan speed controller with a switch?

Sure you can do this. The fan speed controller should have 2 terminals, swap it with a single pole switch.  If it's a digital controller it might also have a neutral - just put a wire nut over it and only connect the switch between the hot wires.


How to find joists through sheetmetal ceiling?

You might be able to pull the carpet a bit in a corner of the room.  Perhaps you can find nails holding down the subfloor to the joists.  A good place to start would be a closet where it would be easy to hide and tack back down.  From this point it might be easier to guess what the typical joist spacing would be.

Typically ceiling joists will be spaced 12", 16", 19.2" or 24" OC.  Rather than damage the ceiling it would be easier to pull up some carpet upstairs and try driving a nail or screw at each of these lengths and see which length grabs a joist.


How to wire a switch-controlled GCFI but retain downstream protection even with switch off

GFCI breakers are easy to manage and will protect the entire circuit. It's the safest way to provide protection to multiple uses on a circuit. One small hitch is you'll need to identify the intended circuit's neutral wire from among those attached to the neutral bus. That neutral wire must be attached to the GFCI breaker, a short white wire included with the new breaker attaches to the neutral bus. And the load (usually black) wire will attach to the breaker also. Then the breaker snaps into the panel in the appropriate slot.


What cleaners are there in the market to use for Air duct duct cleaning?

There are a lot of options for air duct cleaning companies in the US market.
here are the things you should check before closing with air duct cleaning company:

if they have a license
if they have insurance
check online reviews


US-Michigan Can I use two ground terminal bars in a sub panel?

Sure, that's no problem.  Just make sure the ground bar is actually grounded.


Why is my gas heater shutting down the flame and pilot?

Bad thermocouple - it is supposed to sense the presence of a flame, and turn off the gas if it is on, but nothing is getting hot.

Last one I replaced was less than $10 at home depot, it is held in with only a screw or two, and less than an hour of work, including the beer after fixing my friends water heater.

Looks like this, they are pretty much universal.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_26369-135-6910476_0__?productId=3133513


How to fill a large gap between tile and shower tub to ensure waterproof gap

I think the plan is sound. The only think I would change is that I would use Caulk to glue "A" in (to the left site of "A"). This gives you double protection.

This kind of shit happens to everybody, don't worry.

Good Luck


Mixing Bora-care - how do I know how much to use?

Your area calculation makes it seem like you are treating a single 8' long 1x6 board.
Anyhoo, the amount you need depends on the porosity of the wood. The instructions say to apply "to the point of saturation". If your area calculations are correct, than you probably need less than 1 gal. of solution. So, at an approximate 5:1, you need about 105 oz. of water and 21 oz. of concentrate to make a tad bit less than a gal. of solution at 5:1.
P.S.- math is not my forte
P.S.S.- I don't think you need perfect accuracy here...


How do I fix this hole in 1960's stucco exterior wall?

It looks like a few pieces of wire are at the edge of the hole, straighten these out so they poke towards the center of the opening. Add a few screws to the sub siding, the screws don't need to go through the wood but are for the patch to hold on to. The hole only looks to be about 2" if this is the case a few screws and some of the wires should be enough to hold the plug in place , if the hole is larger you may want to add some expanded metal mesh or wire in the hole. I like expanded mesh but it is harder to work with. Tuck the edges of the wire/mesh in at the edges of the hole using the screws to hold off or away from the wood about 1/2 the depth. Sometimes I will chip the edge closest to the wood to provide a lip and access more wire this helps the plug to hold in place and provides a fresh edge. Mix your patch up and pack into the hole making sure to work the mud into and through the mesh/wire pressing out all air bubbles. Matching is the toughest part, it looks like a heavy spatter was used you may be able to use some of the patch and add a little extra water and a small putty knife load the knife and flick it at the patch, if you like the way it looks let it dry and paint if it needs more repeat the flicking , if you don't like the way it looks wipe it off and try again.


One website for furniture plans that my wife recently found is ana-white.com. Best thing is, they're free! Each article/blog post has a materials list and instructions.

There are quite a few plans for near-duplicates of brand-name furniture makers' products.

Here's instructions for a dresser from the website. (I'm not sure exactly what you mean by a wardrobe, since you mentioned it had drawers. When I hear wardrobe I normally think Chronicles of Narnia style.)


I just "refurbished" a pressure washer that had set for a while.  I cleaned the carb and got it to where it would start, but it would only run with the choke on.

Through some online research and trial and error, I determined that when choked, the fuel takes a different route through the carb.   I had to remove the main jet and associated parts, soak them in carb cleaner for a while and clean all holes with a wire much finer than a paper clip.  I could only find carb cleaner in a spray can, and I didn't want to purchase a whole gallon of chem-dip, so I just used the spray can to fill the bottom of a glass jar which worked fine.

Once that was done it ran better, but only for a few minutes.  On a hunch, I tried running it for a while with the gas cap off, and it worked.  Turned out the vent hole in the cap was plugged by a spider or who knows what.  After widening the hole a bit, it ran for the rest of the day.

Forgot to mention: Don't get carb cleaner on any of the rubber seals.  It makes them expand, and when they dry they will shrink back to shape, but it's bad for the rubber.

Not the most exact answer, but hope it helps!


Why would a lawn irrigation pipe slope down to nothing and just end?

To answer my own question (after a bit of research)...

In terms of following standard sprinkler system layouts, there is no technical reason why a downward sloping pipe would just end and be bent. This seems to be a unique feature to this system. Most likely, the pipe was laid for future expansion. Perhaps budget was an important issue at time of installation, or perhaps the design changed at the last minute. It could be that it was not designed professionally and the layout was changed around a lot through trial and error. All one can infer with the information known is that a pipe is bent and essentially capped off (since water does not seep). It's not causing a loss of pressure in that case. If anything, perhaps the pump is having to work ever so slightly more to maintain the pressure in that zone (since there is a bit of more pipe to cover). If there is little or no pressure in a zone that was at one point working then it has had a change in it's supply, either a loss from leaks, or an issue at its source (the well). But those are whole other issues.


Is this bulge in my ceiling due to a roof leak?

Based on the picture that was posted in a comment (then added to the original question). It looks like this was a poorly done patch.
At some point in the past, someone had to remove a portion of the ceiling drywall. Possibly to repair a leaking pipe, to repair a water leak from outside, or some other reason. When the person (a lazy contractor, or a previous home owner) went to replace the drywall on the ceiling, he either:

didn't have the correct thickness of drywall to match what was already on the ceiling so installed a thicker piece that he had on hand
didn't attach the correct thickness of drywall well enough, and one end has begun to sag

This just looks like a poor repair job, not a current leaking spot. However, it's possible that if there was a leak here before, that the spot (whether plumbing above, or something coming in from outside) is leaking again, and it bears keeping an eye on it.
Whether one would "notice drops on an iPad" seems to be quite irrelevant to the question. Look for additional signs of water damage - additional sagging, damp to the touch and/or discoloration.


Electrical wiring 14-2 wire connect 12-2 wire

You could use the 12 awg wire on a 15 amp circuit connecting the section that is wired in 14.
 The only problem and I have found with this in the past where part was wired in 14 but the breaker had #12 , I am guessing that at a later date someone put in a 20a breaker and cooked the 14 gauge wireing because it looked like it was wired with 12 at the panel.


Is it important not to scratch copper wire when removing insulation?

Minor superficial marking is just that. Unimportant. Deep nicks around the circumference create weaknesses. Those would cause problems. Redo.

With the right tools, careful use and a little practice, you will be able to strip insulation without nicking or scratching the copper.

Suitable tools, in the same spirit as photo in Q :-)


What is the first step in fitting a switch to existing wiring?

It may be necessary and almost certainly will be safer to hire a qualified electrician.

The first step in diagnosing this problem is to identify the conductors.

You have a multimeter, but you should check that your leads, probes, and the meter itself are rated for mains voltage. Switch off the entire electrical supply at the consumer unit or main isolator switch. Use a voltage tester or--at a minimum--a neon test screwdriver, to verify that each conductor in the back box and at light fittings is dead. Do not conduct the following test on a live installation. Turn off all circuits.

One way of identifying conductors is to connect the live and earth and/or neutral and earth wires of a single cable together using a terminal block or similar at one end, then at the other end, test continuity between the L+E or N+E with your multimeter. You can discount the possibility of an existing short by testing continuity between the conductors before connecting them together at one end.

In your case, you need to know which of your red and black wires go to/from light fixtures, and which are live or neutral feeds. Given the age of the installation, it is unlikely you will have a neutral at the switch.

You may not be able to identify the additional white-sheathed twin and earth cable in the back box, so strip it back and terminate each conductor. Do not connect them together, do not tape them, and do not leave it unterminated. If you can identify it, and find that it is dead, you may be able to cut it back or remove it completely, thus avoiding future confusion.

Once you have identified the conductors, you will be able to connect a switch according to the manufacturer's instructions.


Mold in my bathroom is spraying bleach and painting over with Kilz enough?

It depends.

It depends on the type of mold. It depends on the severity of the infestation. It depends on how many treatments they applied.

Bleach is not sufficient or approved for mold remediation. You may need to use something like MoldStat and even then you may need to take additional steps. If the infestation was bad enough you probably could replace the affected drywall section (and, while doing so, treat the lumber behind it).

It sounds like you live in a communal building like a condo or apartment. If a leak from your neighbor caused a mold problem in your unit then your association likely has a legal obligation to hire licensed mold remediation specialists. I would raise it concern immediately with your management company. Suggest that if action is not taken that you will contact the ombudsman.

You are not responsible for damages caused by your neighbor's leaks. Your neighbor has insurance and/or the association has insurance. If you are concerned, have a professional mold agency deal with the problem.


52 volts on my cable demarc (House Side) to ground

The voltage measured on the coax doesn't tell the whole story, especially if it's measured with a high-impedance digital multimeter. The two cable boxes will have isolated power supplies inside, meaning their low voltage circuitry is isolated from the high voltage mains. But there can be capacitive effects that would cause a voltage to appear between the mains and the low voltage circuits (ie the coax connector) even though there's no path for a meaningful amount of current to flow.

To check whether that voltage really means anything you'd need some kind of load. I'd grab a resistor in the range of a few hundred to a couple kilo ohms from my parts box, put it between the cable shield and ground, and measure the voltage again. It should drop to near zero.

I'm trying to think of an alternative that a "normal" person who lacks an electronics parts box might try instead.. If the meter supports current measurement, one could measure how much current will flow between the cable shield and ground. Use an ordinary incandescent or halogen light bulb (not LED or compact fluorescent) in series to limit the current in case there actually is a fault in the cable boxes. A regular household bulb, a large C7 or C9 bulb from old-style Christmas lights or a night light, etc will do. Using your third and fourth hands (or an assistant) put the meter into its highest-range AC current mode, hold the coax cable shield to the shell of the bulb, and touch the meter leads to the button terminal of the bulb and the electrical ground. Repeat with the meter in DC current mode. (Don't forget that meters usually require the red lead be moved to a different socket for measuring current, and definitely remember to move the red lead back to the voltage socket immediately when finished!)

If the voltage didn't drop to near zero in the load resistor test, or if the meter measures more than just a few mA in the current test, that could be a problem and replacement of the cable boxes could be advisable. If these tests check out ok it would seem that the energy that melted and burned the demarc probably didn't come from those two cable boxes.


Do all garage receptacles have to be GFCI protected, and 18 inches off the ground?

Yes, even the receptacle for a GDO in the ceiling is required to be GFCI protected. The exception for this was removed in the 2008 NEC.

IMO the reasoning behind this is that folks will plug an extension cord in anywhere they can, even the ceiling. And many folks like to install those pull-down cord reels on the ceiling in the middle of the garage. The GDO receptacle is a super convenient place to plug these things in.

There is no height restriction in the electric code. This may be in the building code in your area.


What type of cleaner should be used to remove "hand sludge" from a varnished wood railing?

I would suggest turpentine and 0000 steel wool, alternating with paper towel first.  If not clean enough, Proceed to the ammonia treatment described by 0A0D.  The oil step also sounded good.


Appears to be a very substandard mud (drywall compound, thus, drywall joint) job, probably put on without waiting for each layer to cure, possibly also poorly reenforced, thus the cracks. The "Visible hump" is from lack of skill or care in properly feathering the joint.

Question will be whether this is the best the builder can manage, so having them do it over is pointless (as that's certainly sub-par for new construction) or whether you say the heck with them and fix it right either yourself, or by hiring someone actually competent. You might also want to take a harsh, glaring light to other drywall surfaces in the home to see if this is really the only bad spot.


What type of electric heating system is the most energy efficient?

100% of electricity is converted to energy is true. But what is the energy used for? Generate heat, as in resistive heating? All of the electricity is converted to heat, sounds efficient. But you can do better. You can use your electric energy to move heat obtained for free from somewhere else. In other words, a heat pump is more efficient than resistive heat. The source of free heat can be the air, the ground, or even ground water. How the heat that is moved into your house is distributed can vary. You can blow heated air around, or you can move heated fluid around. The heated fluid can give up its heat at radiators, or base board heaters, or into your floor.

There's many options, but you should get heat by moving it rather than causing resistive wires to give it up.


electric oven bake element gets warm but does not get hot

Fixed:  I replaced the controller.

Edit 7/11/2019

Here is how I determined that it was the controller that was causing the problem.

The broil element worked properly in broil mode. The bake element was not working properly, it got warm but not hot. The cycle lamp was on in broil mode and off in bake mode.  This means that the part of the circuit that powers the lamp was not getting proper power in bake mode.

With the breaker off, I disconnected all of the connections to the controller and checked the continuity on the controller in broil mode and in bake mode.  There was continuity in broil mode from leg 2 to point C, but not in bake mode.  There should be continuity in each mode.

The controller is attached to the panel by two screws accessible from the outside of the panel, behind the control knob.  The new controller is designed to replace several controllers of this type. It came with a long shaft with breakoff points and an adaptor kit with parts to fit the shaft to various style knobs.  I had to break off part of the shaft to match my original controller.


Bathtub drain schedule: to keep or to replace?

I've worked with those fittings and they are top of the line. I wouldn't be replacing them based on what I see in the pictures. You might want to remove the rubber gaskets and replace them. You'll need to stop by a plumbing supply store to get them as I doubt your home store will have them. I'm not sure what's on the other side of the wall of the drain but it's always smart to leave some sort of removable panel (you can tile it) so you can get to the faucet and drain in the event something goes wrong.


Why am I not getting any power in two legs of my main power?

If you are comfortable doing it, you can take the front panel off of your breaker box and check the voltage of the wires coming in from the meter, but in cases where "one leg is dead" it is usually a problem with the power utility.  In your case it's pretty obvious because you have no 240v loads, but sometimes in houses it can be a confusing and dangerous problem because voltage can travel through a 240v appliance.

I guess it could be a bad connection between the main breaker and the rest of the panel, but we've had several questions on the site about partial power outages and it's generally the power companies issue.


Can I use an air to air heat exchanger to fix a radon problem?

You are much better off preventing it from entering in the first place. But once it does enter, ventilation is the only way to reduce the levels. How effective this would be depends on the exchange volume. You would be committed to running this exchanger 24/7 for ever. Replacement costs would be much higher than the typical radon fan. Anything running 24/7 will wear out eventually.

And there is still a significant energy loss running like that at decent volume. They are no where near 100% efficient.

If the floor was poured over a layer of gravel, a retrofit sub slab extraction system would likely be successful. If it was poured on compacted earth, a successful system is much less likely. You are right, just sealing cracks without any other remediation would not be very successful.

Testing for adequate sub slab permeability isn't too involved, drill a few well spaced holes through the slab and see if sucking air out of one hole draws air into the others.


what is the name of this outside faucet?

It's a typical Exterior Faucet Handle like these. This one happens to be Cello brand, but there's nothing special about it. That might not even be the original handle ;-) They tend to be pretty consistently standardized, so you should be able to use just about any kind of exterior faucet handle you can find.

This is what it looks like when it's off:

As you can see, you really just need any kind of handle that will fit however that shaft is keyed, and a nut to hold it on.


Will a new vent resolve pressure evacuation of my drain traps?

Did you replace your pipe and keep the 2% slope?  I think your fix will work.  Assume your main stack is 4" and your toilets are on 3?  You might be over the critical trap arm length for the basement toilet but that would just siphon that toilet.
Even if this wasn't a problem you need a vent for your main stack and it needs to go through the roof.  You don't want the potential for sewer gasses to build up and vent into your house.
Good explanation of the critical trap length.
https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/plumbing/maximum-length-for-fixture-drains_o


How can I remove a porcelain sink from a granite counter?

A kitchen sink is usually relatively large and when made of porcelain it's probably pretty heavy. The putty knife is a good idea but you're fighting against not just the silicone but also the weight of the sink. Also make sure you're not fighting against the plumbing -- the drain or the faucet supply pipes could hamper your efforts.
Find a way to apply some lifting force to the sink while trying to cut the caulk with the putty knife. An assistant could push up on the bottom of the sink, or if the drain plumbing is removed, can lift the sink from above by grasping through the drain hole(s). Another possibility is to use a lever or jack of some kind. Take care with this approach. It sets up a "weakest link" challenge: if things go right the caulk will fail, but if things go wrong the sink may break or the floor of the cabinet may be damaged. Proceed with caution, increasing the force/leverage gradually.
Whichever method you choose for lifting the sink, try doing so at all four corners (one at a time). One of them may be adhered weaker than the others; once you get one area loose the rest will follow more easily.


How can I remove a stuck bath stopper assembly?

First, make sure that the clog is accessible via the overflow.  Try this test...  While the tub is draining slowly, pour water down the overflow through a funnel.  If that drains fast, then the clog is in the horizontal arm and no clearing through the overflow will help you.

What works for me is to use a wet cloth to seal off the overflow (replace it first to make as small an opening as possible).  With the tub 1/2 full of water and holding the wet cloth over the overflow vent, a plunger should then be able to clear the clog because it will force water down the drain (horizontal or vertical) rather than pushing water up the overflow pipe (or pulling air down it).  Should that fail, use draino or physically pry off the grate for an auger.

The plunger should pull some amount of gunk back up into the tub while you're using it, even through the grate.  If that doesn't happen and the drainage does not improve, then you may have a clogged vent.  You need air behind water for it to drain quickly otherwise it's like water draining from an upside-down bottle.  Cleaning the vent means going up on the roof and clearing the clog from there -- a hose at full blast will usually do this.

As for fully removing the overflow and parts...  I don't know.


How often should our septic aerator run during a day?

The aerator should run 24/7 nonstop and should not cost more than 10 dollars a month to run. If you electric bill is high something else is causing it or the system is not correctly hooked up.


Concrete Block Wall Has Ugly White Stains

Two things come to mind -

if you have white stains, they might be a lot less noticeable on a
whitewashed wall. And a porous whitewash is more likely to stay put
than an attempt to seal the wall with paint.
Even without proper porous backfill, it  would probably be worth trying to drill some weep holes in the bottom of the wall, to relieve pressure.


How do I stabilize power to my PC from an erratic power supply?

You could use a voltage stabilizer, but it makes little sense to do so.

Almost all UPSs are specifically designed to work with dirty power sources.  The UPS working range is probably as good, if not better, than any comparable stabilizer in the same power range and price class.

It would be more cost effective to replace the UPS with a model which has a wider input range than to add a stabilizer.  This also means there are half as many things to fail.


Can I install insulation over the HVAC duct work and plywood?

You will not create a problem of moisture in or on the ductwork. The duct work is insulated to keep the condensate from forming on the outside of the pipes and dripping off from the temperature differences in the attic in the summertime with AC running. So more would help. What would be bad is if the duct work is flex duct and gets mashed under the weight of the added insulation on top of it. Don't underestimate what will happen once you cover it up and can't see have may have happened to it.

About the existing decking, I feel storage is valuable in any part of the home. To cover it up and lose what may be valuable space, at least in my mind seems a shame. But if you are not using it, and don't plan on it, then there really needs to be no concern.. If that is the case then insulation added anywhere in a continuous layer is a benefit. I would if it were me, pull it up and set 2X10 material on its edge and screw it to the joists so the new insulation could run tightly between the 2X material, then add plywood over that, ripping it 2 ft. wide if need be to get it through the access.


You're always allowed to upsize wire

I don't know how your house came to have legacy air conditioning wiring that large, yes I do. Air conditioners have gotten more efficient and past owners may have retrofitted insulation.

But regardless, if the requirement is for 14 AWG wire, you are always allowed to use the larger #12 or still larger #10.

There is also nothing wrong with an unused white wire "coming along for the ride".

However, when a white wire is used as a hot in a 240V cable, you are required to mark the white wire with tape.  I strongly prefer wrapping the tape around the wire; flags can easily be torn off, especially as they age.

As far as breakers, if your panel is Eaton, Cutler-Hammer, BRyant, Challenger, or Westinghouse, Eaton breakers are almost certainly correct. If it's anything else, it's probably a hazardous mismatch, but anything is possible with Eaton; we'd need the panel brand and model, and the lettering on the breaker to be sure.


Is there a type of cement that can be used to glue tiles to a wall?

That's not actually "cement as glue", that's a cement-based compound modified with various trade secret components for better plasticity and adhesion. It's usually called "thin-set mortar" and it's widely widespread.

Since we likely live in different regions I'd rather not recommend any brand to you - you have your local brands.


How can I remove vinyl base without damaging the drywall?

Buy tall trim to cover up the glue issues or just skim coat the whole area.  You will spend more time tying to get this off clean then ripping and skim coating the area.


Is there a universal colour code for screw bits?

The colour codes are NOT universal. There is no agreed upon universal colour code for colouring bits (to my knowledge).

I have found that each brand (mostly) follows their own colour coding. Powerfix uses the colours you describe, and some brands, either intentionally or otherwise, use the same colours as other brands.

But mostly, they do not. For example, Halfords uses

Blue: Philips
Yellow: Pozidriv
Red: Flat
Green: Torx

While Wera uses

Red: Phillips
Black: Pozidriv
Green: Torx
Blue: hex
Yellow: flat

And then if all the tools in a set are the same, e.g. hex keys, Wera uses colours for the sizes instead.


It looks like Aurora series downlights:

for example, here is some catalog.

Judging from photos, their springs are above than that riveted steel, which is BTW might be another spring holding bottom cover (on the catalog many models with same or similar body but with different cover).


Is URD #4 Appropriate for 100ft run for generator hookup?

Running all the wires in the conduit is fine, but there are better choices than that URD cable!
Bumping up to 2" Schedule 80 and putting all the wires inside it is more than fine (there is an 80% ampacity derate because of this, but it won't bother you one bit here); however, that 4/4/4/4 URD cable is probably not going to be the easiest thing to pull through the conduit.  Using individual 4AWG Al XHHW-2s for the generator feed instead would be a better choice, and you can also save fill by running a 10AWG bare copper ground wire that's shared between the generator feed and the shed circuit.  The remaining wires for the shed can be 10AWG copper THHN/THWN-2s -- this will make your conduit-pulling job quite a bit easier than trying to stuff cables down your conduit.
TORQUE LUGS TO SPEC (so you don't come off looking like a loose lugnut)
In addition, that URD cable uses AA-1350 aluminum conductors -- while legal for URD cables, it would mean that you would have to take extra care to make a perfect termination on your lugs at each end.  Getting individual aluminum XHHW-2s instead would mean you are getting AA-8000 series alloy conductors, which are somewhat more forgiving than the old AA-1350 stuff.  Even with AA-8000 series conductors, though, it's still highly recommended (and even required if your AHJ is up to speed with the 2017 NEC, see 110.14(D) for details) to use a torque tool to torque the lug setscrews to the manufacturer's specified torque values.  Considering that a mistorqued lug can lose you your house, not just a race, an inch-pound torque wrench, applied correctly, is cheap insurance, no?
Temperature ratings matter!
Last but not least on the electrical front, in order to use 4 AWG aluminum cable for this run, you'll need to pigtail it to some copper (10AWG is fine, given that you can change the pigtails out if you get a bigger generator and inlet) at the inlet end, presuming that you're putting a NEMA L14-30 inlet in, that is.  This is because most inlets that size a) can't accept 4AWG aluminum wire and b) are only rated to a 60°C termination, not a 75°C one, which won't limit you at 30A, but would keep you from using the full 60A of your wire should you get a bigger generator and inlet.  You'll need to use set-screw type splice blocks (rated Al7Cu/Al9Cu) to connect the pigtails, not wirenuts, by the way -- don't forget that these need to be torqued to spec, too!
As to that gas line...
Co-trenching of dry utilities (electric/gas) is not an uncommon practice, although it does carry some risk of gas migration into the conduit system for a conduit run in case of a buried gas leak.  You'll need a yellow-insulated, direct burial rated, single conductor (minimum size 18AWG) laid atop the gas line in the trench with a stubbed-up termination at one end to meet IFGC 404.17.3 tracer wire requirements for the gas run, by the way.
If you do wish to run the gas line in a separate trench, I would recommend a minimum of 36" separation between the trenches, so that it's an effective barrier against digging both up in one go with an excavator.  (The NESC specifies 12" of radial separation, which isn't sufficient to keep that from happening.)


Electrical box - What are all these wires?

Some condos are multi-use, i.e., both residential/commercial mix, so maybe it's possible the yellow is a high leg, 277V for the common area lighting that is just there for "future development".   Ask the building superintendents.  They are usually filled with many great stories of advice.


I have a light fixture with a green a white and a black wire. What is the green for?

Green is the ground wire. It connects to the ground conductor in the box and bonds it to exposed metal portions of the fixture as a safety measure.

The ground conductor is typically a bare wire inside the same cable as the supply hot and neutral wires. But in some older systems, ground is conducted via a metal jacket or conduit, in which case you would also have a metal box. In those cases, the green wire should be bonded to the box.


Why would my house be so humid even when the A/C is running?

A few theories as to what might be going on:

You have bad ductwork with few returns. If that's the case, you're just not moving enough air to dehumidify every room.
Your AC unit is oversized. And oversized AC unit will cool the air very fast and then shut off. The problem with that is if the AC unit is only running for short periods, it's not given enough time to properly dehumidify the air.
You have massive air leaks in the house. Maybe as simple as an open door or window. Maybe more complex like no insulation or air barriers in the walls.
You have a massive water leak in the house. Leaking foundation/crawlspace, leaking pluming in the wall, roof leak, etc.

A 1700sf isn't a huge house, so I have a hunch a 3 ton unit is simply too big for your particular house. On average, do you know how often the AC kicks on and for how long? Do you know if they did proper calculations on your house before sizing the unit?


Replacing dining room Light switch : 4 wires, what is the pink for?

Sounds like this is a three-way switch, or at least wired for a three-way at some point in time.

You will need a different switch, specifically a three-way switch, and it should be wired in the same way as the existing switch.

You should locate the other switch that controls that fixture to confirm its existence.  If it doesn't exist, then the pink wire was probably used as power to the fan, but in that case I would expect this would be in a double-gang box.


The diagram shows 80" on the inside, with 4"x4" posts, why does it show 90" on the outside?

Well, I couldn't find your exact pergola at newenglandarbors.com, but similar ones did specify a 5" post. So the numbers might be right.

In any case, lay the parts out on the ground. The "bent" that's made up of two posts and the beam that sits between them will probably have a natural way that it goes together. Measure that width and set your base brackets accordingly.


Reline your jamb with another material that you can screw into. The pressure you will subject the door frame to is really needing something screwed into it. To just use pressure has the strong possibility of deforming or worse, cracking your jamb, depends on where the shims are placed behind the jamb, but you cant see them, unless you take it apart, not a good idea, totally counterproductive.

There is more to sketch regarding the assembly how it fits together at the bottom. The idea is, it may be complicated to initially assemble/make, but that time spent now will pay off on how easy it is to assemble and take down.

I see it being 4 pieces, a plywood bottom with pulley mechanism attached, a hinged door head mounted to one of the side jamb liners with the pull up bar and tension bands attached and the ropes to link it all together.


How can I join two lengths of flexible 1/4" copper pipe?

I'd use a small tubing cutter to cut tidy/clean ends on both ends of the 1/4" copper pipe  ...

... cutting off whatever portions of the 1/4" copper pipe are kinked or deformed. I'd then slip on a compression fitting called a 'union' ...

... which requires tightening with a pair of wrenches.  Wikipedia has a general article on compression fittings here.  You-tube hosts a concise 3 minute how-to video regarding installing compression fittings on plastic or copper pipe.  The copper tubing portion of the demo starts at 1:45 ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQGL8MBLlaE

Small tubing cutters such as the one pictured above will cut diameters 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" and anything in between.  The small size of that cutter design makes it excellent for tight confines.  It would be the first one I'd buy for my tool box. You could also use a medium size cutter, such as the one used in this 90 second tutorial ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLB3MomrXd0

The small cutter works in the same way. There are two main points to keep in mind when using either of these tubing cutters ...

1) Tighten the cutter only a little bit each time, making a number of light scores around the pipe instead of several deep ones.

2) The cutter wheel needs to continually track in the previous score, so keep a close eye on the score and make sure the score is not spiraling along the length of the 1/4" copper pipe, which can happen if the pipe is bent or deformed in the area where the cutter is being used.

After the cuts are completed, the cut ends of the 1/4" pipe need to be very close to circular (for example, not deformed into an oval). If they are not circular, then even if the ferrules can be forced onto the 1/4" copper pipe, the fitting will leak.  If the ferrules do not slip on easily, it might be due to the ends of the 1/4" pipe being out-of-round, or (unlikely) due to defective ferrules.  Using a tubing cutter will help ensure the cut ends of the 1/4" copper pipe are circular.

Alternatively, a hacksaw (or similar) can be used to cut clean ends on the 1/4" pipe.  This will likely result in ends with sharp edges and a burr.  Remove these with sandpaper.  Clean ends will allow the ferrules slip on without gauging, which would lead to a leak.  A fine-toothed file can be used instead of sandpaper, but the copper dust/shavings will most likely clog the teeth of the file.

Here is a 7 minute how-to video from England regarding leaks at compression fittings:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aez4ctMtbuI


How do I replace a broken thermostat on a metal radiator?

Thermostats usually unscrew by hand with a small plastic thumbwheel at their base. Yours may be broken or have come unscrewed.  Replacement thermostats are quite cheap, about £10 - £20 GBP and should screw directly onto the metal valve.


Circuit Breaker reading low voltage? (102-105 volts)

I am going with Ed Beal. Take a reading at the main lugs and see if you are getting a true voltage there. If you are reading between 118 to 126 volts to ground. Then if your meter can give you at least 1/100 of a voltage reading. Check the voltage between the main lug and the load side of your breaker to see how much drop you are getting. It should be something like .25V. If you are dropping 5 - 15 volts then your bus is probably burnt or corroded and your breaker is not making a good connection.

If you are reading 105V at the main then you need to look further up line. Check with neighbors to see if they are having a problem. If not have the utility company check the lugs in you meter base. Look for loose connections or discoloring of the bus or conductors in the panel. Don't forget to check the entire circuit just in case there are multiple problems. Open switches, light fixtures and receptacles on the circuit and check all connections.

Good luck and stay safe.


This appears to be an ancient Edison-screw-receptacle

What you have appears to be an ancient sort of receptacle, from the days when people put Edison screw bases on the end of cords because standard NEMA receptacles weren't a thing yet.  I'd put a new single-gang old work box in there with the correct tubing/bushings for that old K&T wiring, and then fit a 15A GFCI receptacle at that location; just be careful to make sure you don't get hot and neutral mixed up!


Mounting mirrored bathroom cabinet to plasterboard wall without usable stud

The manufacturer's instructions probably just want to warn you against using plain screws in plasterboard, which isn't strong at all.

I have not seen or used the anchor linked in the question, but have used similar hardware to wall mount much heavier things to drywall.  Even adding weight for the contents of the cabinet, a single anchor will carry considerably more.  With four anchors, you're only using a fraction of the rated capacity.

Since there's an electrical connection involved, to be extra safe, I'd locate the studs - there should be a stud somewhere behind the cabinet - and drill a couple new holes in the back of the cabinet to attach to the stud with screws.  It's really not important that the stud is not centered  on the cabinet.


Resource comparing power consumption of different water heaters?

You have qualified your question to just Electric On-Demand water heater.  Most energy efficient is not necessary the same as lowest cost when evaluating different energy source.
I do not believe you will find a source that meets the “"real-world" energy consumption of different electric tankless water heaters under different conditions.  Any ideas?”.
Mainly because it is costing the manufacturers enough just to test under the specific guidelines required by the DOE.  Using the DOE energy consumption guide for all appliances sold in the US will provide you the relative ranking of all the  tankless water heater.  This
list of electric tankless water heaters provides a list of 115 models sold or previously sold in the US.
From this listing you can make a list of what features you considered most important, i.e., operating cost, recovery, on-demand rate.


Spray Foam Insulation Health Concerns - Alternative Spray Foam Products

Spray foam insulation is a petrochemical product that is mixed on-site and blown with a blowing agent. The actual process is not great for anyone's health, which is why applicators wear protective suits. It is also exothermic, and if done incorrectly can cause a fire (rare). Additionally, if mixed incorrectly, or even in a small percentage of cases, the foam will offgas nasty stuff for a long time, rendering the house uninhabitable. I must stress that these cases are rare, but they do happen. Furthermore, fully-cured spray foam is flammable at elevated temperatures and will char and emit smoke at typical household fire temperatures.

Are there better insulations out there than spray foam? Absolutely. Spray foam is about the most expensive insulation you can get, and it is terribly mis-used most of the time, applied where its benefits are wasted. For insulating walls between stud cavities, wet-sprayed dense-packed cellulose, sprayed fiberglass (under the brand name "Spider") or mineral wool batts are better choices. For turning an attic into conditioned space, installing rigid foam boards above the roof sheathing is the preferred approach if already re-roofing. If that's not an option, then you can fill the spaces with the aforementioned choices of cellulose, fiberglass, or mineral wool batts, as long as you 1) create a ventilation channel of 2-4 inches in the rafter bays below the roof deck, 2) install a ridge vent and soffit vents that allow every rafter bay to be ventilated, 3) use an interior-side smart vapor retarder membrane such as Intello MemBrain (note: NOT a vapor barrier like polyethylene sheeting), and 4) you finish the assembly off with drywall, being careful to make the drywall layer as airtight as possible. Alternatively, you can detail the vapor retarder membrane as an air barrier and skip the drywall or use non-airtight finish materials like tongue-and-groove pine boards or something.


Either you're not using the arbor lock feature (look for a button or lever nearby which engages a hole or slot in the arbor as you turn), or your bolt is stripped.

Use the arbor lock or replace the bolt.


Of what I know about fiberglass, you will need to grind through the gel coat, which is the smooth color coating over the outside of the board, down to the layer of woven fabric that is under the gel coat. feather out the area a few inches on either side of the damage, being careful not to go into the core. If you do a little, no big deal, it just means a little more work to fix. When grinding fiberglass, it stinks and dusty, you will want a good respirator or at least a dust mask with a rating 95 AND do this outdoors.
Cut the fiberglass mat to fit over the dressed areas, and set aside. With the larger damaged section, you will need to cut it off and rebuild the core material before cutting the fiberglass mat. DO NOT use bondo for that or any repair on this board! It is not structural at all for this application, and it may damage the existing core material. Use the same material that has been exposed to rebuild the corner. You will need to research what adhesive it will take to apply the repair piece.
With all the fabric cut to size, mix the epoxy. It has a very limited time to work with, so you will need to move efficiently. Coat an area that has been prepped, you may want to mask around the area so the epoxy goes where you want it, not everywhere else.... Immediately, place the mat set aside for that area over the repair and add more resin over it. I forgot the mention, When the cut is made on the worst part of the damage, asses how thick the thickness of the fiberglass is. You will need to add enough layers of new fiberglass mats to build it up the same as original, alternating resin and matting. Make certain that there are no trapped air bubbles in the layers. Working with narrow strips of mat in all areas, will help the material conform to the roundness the board has.
After all the matting is done, let it cure for the recommended time and sand smooth. You can apply a layer of epoxy colored the same as the board. Whether it will need one coat or 2 of the color, I do not know, but it will help make the repair not so noticeable... perhaps....


House being built but I think the brick is poorly done

I have laid thousands of bricks and that is crap work! Don't pay for that, and there is no way to fix it it must come off and be redone. They should be ashamed of themselves, a new house that looks terrible. Stick up for yourself and the investment your making and make them redo there work.


What is the life expectancy of a GFCI receptacle?

GFCI longevity is mostly decided by two competing factors:

Whether it's indoors or outdoors.  The elements will shred anything, and feeble little covers won't help. You have active condensation going on inside that device, it's going to have problems.
Build quality.  Yes, quality matters.  A lot.  The corners cut by the cheapies mainly attack the longevity of the device.  Obviously it has to make it through its warranty period!

If you have a GFCI on every outdoor receptacle, make sure you're not doing the common mistake of putting more than one GFCI on the same circuit, as this is at best wasteful and at worst dangerous.

Since GFCIs can feed downstream receptacles, the best plan is to have an indoor GFCI protect outdoor receptacles.


Based solely on typical building practices and my assumptions about your home^, the green wall is likely not load-bearing and can be removed.

The doorways can almost certainly be exchanged, providing that you implement the same structural header arrangement that the existing door has now. It's unlikely that there's a post in that location, though there may be plumbing, ducting, or wiring to consider.

^ That the roof system runs across the narrow dimension of the home, and that floor joists rest on the center wall.


Can extractor hood be wired into oven terminal block?

To meet the electrical code in the U.S. (and most anywhere) all mains electrical connections must be done in an appropriate junction box that has been tested and listed for the purpose. As a rule, the terminal block and enclosure of an oven will have been tested for making connections to the oven cord. And it may be perfectly safe to add the hood cord as well since the box already meets requirements for flame retardance. For the sake of argument I'm assuming there is sufficient volume for the heat associated with the additional connection but that may not be the case. We don't need to figure this out because . . .

If controlling a hood is not a feature of the new oven then the terminal block box almost certainly wasn't tested for this application and therefore the connection would not meet your local electrical code.

The safe and correct thing to do is to wire the hood directly using an approved method (into a new or existing outlet or junction box). This may require changing or modifying the cord. If you are not comfortable doing this sort of electrical work then it makes sense to hire an electrician to do it. They would likely bill you the minimum for a house call plus materials.


shower water either hot or cold; not mixing; valve/ cartridge/ plumbing?

The cartridge inside the shower body may be shot. Call a plumber and have him inspect it, if you don't know how to change one. They're relatively easy to do. remove the handle, remove the housing, pull out the cartridge. reassemble...


The "glunk-glunk" is air being pushed or pulled around the water in the trap. Often this indicates a blocked vent pipe. In your situation the upstream plumbing or even the main stack may have been considered a wet vent and be perfectly fine. With the clog at the main near the street, the air pressure inside the pipes is building up from water draining above, and the easiest escape is the sink trap. If possible, I'd still check the pipes to see if there's a vent that should have relieved this pressure, it may need to be cleared from the roof.


If you are going forward with the remodel to the extent that you describe the walls will probably be open so you can see where the existing water lines are routed. Due the proximity the existing tub and small shower it is likely that they are plumbed from a common feed line anyway.

I would recommend that you remove the no longer needed branches in the line.

You did not specify but there is a possibility that you may need to reroute the water lines to accommodate the new shower location anyway so this is an opportunity to make a clean installation that minimizes the amount of piping runs.


I have come to steal a technique I learned from Mike Holmes, because though I have done plenty of caulking I have to admit that I'm just not very good at it freehand.... I tape the edges of my caulk line.

Then I use a caulking tool for a good uniform shape... The "U" shape is what you're after (more like a hyperbola, though).

Afterwards I pull the tape and have a nice straight caulk line.


Water Heater Dripping and Hissing Internally

In then end it was indeed the thermocouple.  At some point the water heater shut off and things got cold enough that condensation formed when it was restarted.  Since replacing the thermocouple, the problem has not reoccurred.


What could go wrong if you made a circuit-breaker-tripper with its own circuit breaker?

In theory, that sounds great.  In reality, maybe not so much.  You could be talking about putting a crap-ton of current through the house wiring, and a device in your hand!

Looking at a 20 ampere circuit, where the receptacle is 20' (along the wire) away from the breaker. That's 40' of wire in the wall.  According to NEC, 12 AWG wire has a resistance of 0.00193 ohms per foot. Assuming the wiring for the device is 12 AWG, and about a foot in length.  That's a total of 41' of wire, at 0.00193 ohms per foot.

Using Ohm's Law, we can calculate the fault current.

I = V/R
I = 120 v / 0.07913 ohms
I = 1,516.492 amperes

That's more than 75 times the rated current of the 20 ampere breaker, so it should be within the instantaneous trip range of the breaker.  If the house breaker does not open, you've got 1500 amperes flowing through the house wiring, and a device in your hand. Hopefully the breaker in your device works, and opens the circuit in less than a cycle.  Otherwise, that wire is going to get really hot, really fast.


Wouldn't need to have a pillar. Would need at least a diagonal brace securely mounted to the wall framing. Unless, that is, you can build a boxed platform rigid enough to carry that stress without flex.

I'd use 3-5 heavy duty brackets like this.You'd barely be able to see them under your platform, leaving it with a floating appearance. Leave the end one 20-40cm from the end to help hide it visually.

I've built several such surfaces with good results using 2-1/2" lag screws. The brackets should ideally reach about 2/3 the way to the front or could be extended with structural top rails.

This question comes along regularly in various forms. Here are a few.

How can I support a desk without legs or brackets

How can I mount a desk on a wall with L-brackets?

How is a floating desk top supported against the wall?

DIY Floating Desk in New Build Home

What is the ideal method of supporting a 27" deep floating desk across 10 feet of wall?


When heating below 32 °F or 0 °C frost forms on the outdoor coils of a heat pump - and that can happen when the air temperature is above that point, if the coils are that cold to collect heat from cold air.
The controller has some logic which either detects or assumes frost formation and kicks into defrost mode to melt the frost so that airflow is restored. Depending on the unit it may engage resistance heating while doing that.
Water vapor ("steam") would be an expected side effect from that process.


I think you need a structural engineer to sign off your designs before you start cutting structural timbers.  However:

There is no problem in principle in running a suitably sized blue beam to the right of the current post.  What you may need, is a post running from the blue beam directly up to the ridge. This would leave you the completely open space at floor level, but would be visible in the open space above the beam.

Does the existing post run all the way to the roof?  If not, you won't need one in the new scheme.  If it does, you will.


Running both a 120v and 240v extension cord in generator simultaneously

Yes and no. It not as simple as keeping the wattage under the maximum value.
The load needs to also be balanced if you have 120v devices the load needs to be on both legs equally or close.  220/240v loads are usually balanced but not always. (A dryer is a example of an unbalanced 240 load).
1 120v leg you can normally pull 2400w beyond this will probably trip the protective circuits. (For the single 120v outlets)  splitting the and putting the load evenly on each leg it will work so to not overload the generator.
you may be able put ~6000 w on the 220/240 but then it depends how the 120v circuits are loaded 1500w on each leg will work but a large imbalance will overload the generator even if the total is less than the generator rating.
I mention the loading because years back a man set up his own system on the first power outage he kept tripping the generator over temp safeties (ruined the generator) they would not warranty it and called it abuse, I was referred to set up the new one.
His problem 80/30 he had 30% on the 240 load then 50% on L1 leg nothing on L2 even though he had less than the total load it was so heavily imbalanced it smoked the coils from being reset.
I went out and he was really upset he had done an excellent job setting it up but did not understand balancing and the inspector did not check it when he signed off the job.
I moved 3 circuits over to the other side and then asked him what he would add if he had power.  I added 4 more circuits and his total was still well under the rating but well balanced.
I explained how to check the loads with the meter on the generator and to make sure L1 was close to L2 and he would be fine with 1-2 below the max but the large imbalance and resetting was what damaged the original generator.
He did not believe me and turned off his main and ran the generator for close to 250 gallons of propane without a problem.
So as the question is asked yes or no can be the correct answer depending on balancing of the 120v loads.


First, use a hammer and chisel to cut the stucco tight to the old sign. Try to undercut at 45 degrees so that when the sign pops off it will not pull any more of the stucco with it. Once you have a clean-edged rectangular depression, fill it flush with a wood block and some stucco product. You want a waterproof patch.
If your new sign is a bit too small you can build a "picture frame" around the sign. Add the frame after mounting the new sign, or attach the sign to a larger thin substrate with the frame as one piece..


Use sheets of 4'x8' 3/4" plywood as top hung sliding doors on shed?

When I built a shed earlier this summer (located in central Indiana), we purchased and had all the materials delivered. One sheet of pressure-treated 3/4" plywood was more suitable for boat-building than the flooring it was intended for. i.e. it was well and truly warped - sitting flat on the garage floor, each end lifted 3-4" off the floor. (Hence my emphasis on "had delivered" - it's a piece that would have never come home with me if I were picking my own lumber.)
I don't recall off the top of my head if this was ACX or not, but plywood, even pressure-treated, can warp if left to its own devices. I wouldn't count on your doors staying flat without some sort of bracing or reinforcement. Yours will be free hanging with nothing to resist any warping forces and exposed to the elements on one side - mine was somewhere in the middle of a stack of plywood (not on the top/bottom as evidenced by the lack of damage from the banding), presumably kept basically flat by the weight above it.
Adding a "frame" of PT 2x4 on the outside in a "barn-door" type pattern (frame around the outside, one or more diagonals inside the frame) would go a long way toward keeping the plywood flat while adding some visual appeal. Worst case scenario - it would be totally unneeded structurally but would still dress up the otherwise drab slab of a door made from a sheet of plywood.


Identify neutral and ground, when no color code is present

Easiest way to double check this before wiring anything, just open up another light/receptacle box, or even the switch. See what wire coloring the installer used throughout. Hopefully he stayed consistent. You could also open the panel and see what wire color terminates where.

If this is an individual occurrence, you should be able to see at least what was used for ground in the switch that's wired to this light. Even if the whole apartment wasn't done the same, this circuit might be.

It's a good place to start, let us know what you find.


Why do I need an 8 gauge cable for 40 amps at 220v?

No, it’s 40 amps on each wire. The current flows from one hot, through the loads, and out to the other hot and is the same current all of the way. You may be thinking of voltage. Each hot terminal is only 120. volts to neutral or ground. In theory, you could use insulation on the wires that is only rated for 120 volts but insulation is cheap.


Fuse box coming off of fuse at meter socket

You'll need to stuff a ground wire down that conduit first

The first order of business in this job is to get a ground wire down that conduit to the barn.  You'll need several feet of 8AWG bare stranded copper for this, with one end going to the combination N/G bar in the pole panel, and the other end left hanging in the barn panel for now. (You'll also want to turn the main breaker at the pole off while doing this pull.)  Don't worry about conduit fill, by the way: a 1.25" Schedule 40 PVC conduit supplies about twice as much fill as you'll need for everything here.

Then you can replace the barn panel with something modern

Once you have a ground wire in the conduit and hooked up to the main panel, you can then replace the subpanel in the barn with a modern breaker box.  I recommend a 100A, 24-space, main breaker panel as a minimum for this application; the main breaker here simply serves as a local shutoff means for power to the barn, so it can be larger than the feeder breaker without causing any issues, and slots are cheap to buy now when you're changing the panel out anyway but rather expensive to add later.  Also, make sure to fit the panel with separate ground bars if it doesn't come with them fitted from the factory, and to pull the (usually green) bonding screw from the panel's neutral assembly so that it's configured properly as a subpanel.

And the barn will need ground rods, too

While you're working on the barn, you'll need to drive a couple of 8' ground rods 8' apart and use more of that 8AWG bare copper to connect both ground rods to the barn subpanel.  This takes care of the other side of grounding the barn; the ground wire to the main panel returns wayward utility electricity back to the utility, while the ground rods return wayward natural electricity (such as lightning-induced transients or even just static charges) back to terra firma.

Torque matters!

One more thing is that you'll want to use an inch-pound torque wrench and/or torque screwdriver when making up the lug connections on breakers and loadcenters so that you tighten the screws to the labeled specification torques; this is required by 2017 NEC 110.14(D), and is a good idea anyway lest a bad connection in your electrical system slow your roll.


Do old 2 prong outlets have line/load separation?

Normal receptacles don't have "line" and "load".  That is not a thing.  That concept is only associated with GFCI and AFCI where the "Load" provides a protected zone to additional outlets (that are properly wired).

On a normal receptacle of any vintage, the dual side screws are simply a convenient splicing feature to allow two wires to be spliced to each other and also to the receptacle.

It is more compact than a 3-wire pigtail, for instance.  You are welcome to use that, the pigtail or any splicing method you please.  All do the exact same thing and are interchangeable.*

On newer receptacles, you can delete the "convenient splicing feature" and exchange it for the ability to feed each socket independently.  This is done by breaking off special "tabs" that jumper the screws together.  When changing receptacles you must check for broken tabs, that is the #1 mistake.

* A few situations, such as MWBC, require a pigtail or other scheme that lets you remove the receptacle without breaking the supply wire to downstream outlets. In those cases, using the receptacle as the splice is outlawed.


Sure, you can always upsize the wire.

However, a dramatic upsize introduces two complications.

the much-larger wire will not fit on the device.  It will need to be pigtailed to a suitably sized wire, such as a 6 AWG.

When dealing with #1 wire, it's not as simple as using a giant orange wire-nut the size of a salt shaker.  You have to use a connector such as a Polaris, which is an insulated lug terminal.   You could also use uninsulated lug terminals or split bolts, if you don't mind lashing it under unbelievable amounts of electrical tape.  You do need to insulate neutrals.

You are probably dealing with aluminum wire (I hope)

Generally all terminations sized for #1 wire are aluminum friendly; why wouldn't they, since aluminum is normal and expected at these sizes.  You just have to take care to use terminations rated for aluminum; a Polaris is fine, however I would not use a split bolt unless the smaller wire is also aluminum. Aluminum is fine to use at these sizes.

But yes, definitely lay the heavier wire.  The only case where I wouldn't is if the wire was in conduit, and the run is very short.  In that case, the pigtail adapters for the larger wire might be more expensive than just doing the whole run in the smaller wire.  It could be changed for the larger wire later.


Why do my light bulbs glow when off and make noise when on?

You have problems,all right.  Almost certainly your wall switch is broken, which is why you had to toggle it repeatedly w/ the incandescent bulb in place.  Replace the switch first.
In all likelihood all the other problems resulted from your broken switch providing voltage but very little current when in a "not quite on OR off" state.


Splitting one main low voltage power line into two

I use stranded wire for everything and I work in voltages up to 480.  Wire nuts are my main splicing technique.  Never had a problem nor had any reason to think I might.   For 3#18 blue wire nuts are ideal.

If you are worried about voltage drop, up your wire size.  Due to the strange economics of mass produced wire, #14 is barely any more expensive than #18.  For going to individual strips I use #20 or #22 because I want delicate wires that are flexible so I don't put too much strain on the strip proper.   But I splice up to heavier stuff within a foot or two.


How do I wire a 1/2 switched receptacle?

At least one of the tabs on the old 1/2 switched outlet (the hot side) must have been snapped off, or it couldn't be 1/2 switched, it would have to be all switched.

You describe only 3 wires (2 whites + one red), but there should be 2 non-white wires: one always-hot wire for the unswitched side of the outlet (should be black), and one switched hot wire (could be red or black) that comes from the switch for the switched side. I'm assuming that it is not a switched neutral circuit (which is uncommon and generally not safe).

Did one of the white wires have black tape or other marking to signify that it's actually a hot? Maybe one of those white wires is actually a hot wire, which, if you're putting them on the same side of the outlet would explain why the breaker keeps tripping since you'd be shorting the white-hot wire to the white-neutral wire. Even if it's not marked as hot, the marking may have fallen off (or it may never have been marked).

One way to test for this is to disconnect all of the wires from the switch and let them hang out of the box, tape or wire-nut the exposed ends of all wires, then turn on the power.

Then, use a non-contact voltage tester to see which wires are hot, flip the switch to identify the switched hot. If you do find that one of the white's is actually a hot wire, mark both ends securely with black tape.

If you do find out that one of the white wires is an unmarked hot,make sure that both of the hots (the switched hot and unswitched hot) are coming from the same breaker, if you have hot wires from 2 separate circuits sharing one neutral, you could have an unsafe condition.


Where can I find handle-operated flushbolts for French doors?

As far as I know, what you're looking for doesn't exist as a flush bolt.  If you think about it, you'd need to do quite a bit of woodworking on the door in order to install a mechanism that actuates rods at the top and bottom of a door via a handle in the center.  This type of arrangement DOES exist in surface bolts, where the rods connect to the door externally -- think commercial door hardware.

However, there may be a different way to accomplish what you're trying to do: Automatic flush bolts.  These are actuated not by a handle, but by lever that is pushed on by the other door when it's closed against it.  Then, you could use a dummy handle on the door with the flush bolts, and that door will swing freely when the other door is open.

This page describes how they work


I tightened a Titus Minifix Cam too hard and now I have to take it apart. Is that OK?

It is understandable to be stressed about not breaking your furniture.

These cam locks can be loosened and tightened more than once.  The cam can only turn so far with pin inserted into it. Just turn them all 1/4 turn counter clockwise to unlock them from the pin, then you may need to tap lightly from under the top at each of the points where there is a cam lock or dowel. Use a rubber mallet or something that will not dent or leave marks, if you only have a regulare hammer then use a piece of scrap wood to protect the furniture.

When reinstalling the top do the opposite (tap in down). Then turn each cam 1/4 turn clockwise. When you get to the cam that is questionable do not try to take it out as the wood is particle board and you may end up doing more harm then good. Just use the screwdriver to push in as you turn, the pin will prevent the cam from turning to far so snug it up tight but no need to be Hercules just snug to tight not super tight.

What you do not want to do is unnecessarily turn the cams or turn them more then 1/4 turn when the pin is not in them as that may cause excessive wear on the particle board. The hole is sized to fit the cam. Nothing holds the cam in the hole except for the pressure created by the cam's internal machining rotating against the pin.


You can't actually use indoor wire underground. The wire or cable will get wet,  will degrade, leak, and do really strange things like electrify the ground.  There is nothing you can do to keep conduit dry. It will get wet.

In legit conduit, normally you use individual wires (THHN). Almost all THHN is dual-rated THWN-2 for outdoor use!  Same wire - that was easy!  I work in THHN/THWN-2 and I love it.

Note the two layers of insulation.

Some homeowners are super obsessed about using cable instead of wires.  That's silly in (legit) conduit!  However it can be direct buried.  Indoor cable (NM) is indoor-only and gets wrecked fast in the outdoors, in that case you'd need outdoor-rated cable such as UF.

Bad NM:
........
Good UF:

Barely seen: paper packing in the NM cable.

If you ever plan to sell the property, you need to do this right.  Part of the home sale process is inspections. Any not-to-code work must be ripped out and replaced (pulling permits for both the demo and the replacement, so they'll know). Once you are caught, secretly removing the work won't be an option anymore.

You can't use any random pipe-like thing to run electrical cables.  Well, you can, but it doesn't count as conduit.  So the only thing you can run through water hose is UF or other outdoor rated direct burial cable, and the installation will be treated as direct burial.

Also when you bury it, the garden hose will collapse, so you won't be able to pull that wire out and change it, if that's what you were thinking.

Random cheap PVC also doesn't work as conduit - only the gray electrical rated stuff qualifies as conduit.  Using white plumbing PVC is just a bad idea, it'll get hung up on every joint and won't make the bends.

You can also use metal conduit, it's not expensive if you shop around and buy it somewhere other than the big-box store.

There are depth requirements for how deep you bury it.

For expensive RIGID conduit it's 6".
For a single circuit GFCI protected, it's 12" direct burial or conduit.
For other legit conduit, 18".
For other direct burial (or fake conduit), 24".

In all cases that's the amount of earth above the top. Don't trench a 6" trench and put 3" RIGID into it leaving only 3" of dirt above it.


Difference Between Take Off and Starting Collar - Which One Should I Use?

Start collars and take offs are terminology that are used interchangeably.  Finger type ( fold over tabs) are generally used in duct board plenum and trunk lines.  Collar types are used with sheet metal distribution systems.  Sheet metal uses three short metal screws in each collar with mastic or other sealing products.  The finger type collar has flexible duct attached with a first layer duct tape, attaching the inner liner to the collar.  Next is a coating of mastic over the tape completely.  Pull the flexible insulation and vapor barrier over the joint and secure with a large nylon zip tie.  Trim the zip tie and you are done.


Staple or tack the carpet to the bottom side of the tread above the broken tread, just past where you staple it, cut it with a sharp carpet knife and peal it back, fix the broken tread and then pull the carpet back in place and staple it back into place.  Since all of the stapling and cutting will be on the underside of tread it shouldn't be very noticeable.

Or hire a carpet guy on craigslist or something to come and pull all of it up and relay it for you after you've fixed it. I assume this would cost about $100.


first, remove the drain hose. it's usually a flexible hose connected to he drain pipe under your sink. be careful, because when you remove it, it may spill a bunch of nasty water from both the hose and the bottom of the dishwasher.

clean out the hose, or replace it if it looks crushed or damaged at all.

every dishwasher has a one-way valve to prevent the water it pumps out from returning to the dish washer. sometimes the valve is built in to the hose, and sometimes it's built in to the dishwasher. find your valve and make sure it's clean and not jammed. if it looks broken, you can get it replaced.

if the valve looks ok, put everything back together and test it out.

if it still doesn't work, you may need to replace the pump, which should also be fairly easy to replace and available online.


PVC conduit into PVC box: Can I make it watertight when using a threaded fitting? Are sealing locknuts allowed?

Glued fittings are generally always used for PVC conduit to PVC boxes.

Most people also misunderstand the concept of exterior conduits and fuss about "keeping them watertight" when, in the code, they are defined as a wet location. And they will be, every time, no matter how watertight you make them - by condensation, if by no other means.


Why are my recessed IC lights overheating?

The light is designed to dissipate heat through the top of the housing. If you have the ability check to make sure the top of the housing is able to get airflow.

CFL and LED lights will help your situation as they do not produce as much heat.


Unfinished basement - options for exposed concrete wall in finished room

Finish it anyway you want.  Attaching fasteners to the wall for hanging TV's pullup bars, vaults for your gold bullion collection won't be a problem.  You may want to paint the wall.  Black maybe


Can SDS drill bits be used with keyed single sleeve drills?

Your results will vary by the chuck configuration of your drill. You might get lucky; you might not.

If you chuck the bit in and it's wobbly, try shifting it a tiny amount -- it may work better. Be prepared to tighten the chuck frequently.

If you're drilling a lot of masonry, you might find an upgrade to a real rotary hammer drill (such as a Bosch bulldog) would improve your life a lot.


Can baseboard trim be used for window and door casing?

There's no reason it can't, and my own home is an example, having stained oak base trim around all openings as well as against the floor. I can't say I like it much, and when I update the trim I'll do away with the style, but it's not terrible.

However, base trim is usually thinner than casing. This prevents "flush joints" from occurring where base and casing meet. In carpentry, flush joints are to be avoided because it's difficult to achieve perfect alignment in the field. By using a thicker casing, the problem is eliminated.

Casing usually has more detail to it, making it more visually interesting. By having different styles for base and casing there's a visual separation. It may look odd to see a continuous run of trim along the wall and over a door unless an ultra-modern style is desired.

Base trim is also typically taller than casing. If the same molding is used on windows it can result in a top-heavy appearance. This is a matter of personal taste, of course.


What kind of caulk to use in order to caulk the toilet to the floor?

It is best NOT to caulk this location.  Caulking this location can lead to moisture from a leaking toilet getting trapped under the toilet and creating a haven for mold (and/or rot, should there be wood in the area).

In your case remove the toilet, and replace the wax seal (or use one of many rubberized "no wax" products, which claim to be better.

If you do caulk the location, I recommend leaving a gap at some point, perhaps in the back of the toilet, to allow some air circulation. I prefer a quality latex caulk to silicon, as the silicon never seems to stick all that long.


Is my attic floor over my garage strong enough to use it for storage and maybe as a small work area?

You have 2x6 joists 16" o.c. and lets assume #2 fir- the MAXIMUM spam (where they are supported underneath - bearing the weight) for a 20 lb dead load is 9'10" and for 10 lb dead load: 13' 2"
You show 11' +- in photo but it is unclear if there is support at that point.
you can check span table at:
https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wfcm/AWC-WFCM2018-ViewOnly-1711.pdf

There is some interesting framing in that attic: The 2x4 at the peak of the triangle which is set on top of the ceiling joists is very odd, in my opinion.  It is transferring a load from the roof to the ceiling, and unless there is a wall underneath: you probobly have a bow in the ceiling at that point below.

Soooo: minimal storage, depending upon support at the 11' 3/4" point - Once you put a floor downs there even with the intentions of keeping it light up there - people forget in time.. . . .

As to the beefing up the joists with 2x8s that is an option - but the total span is more important. Is the entire width unsupported? and if so what is that total span?


Basic instructions for building a cabinet?

This isn't an answer, I just have a feeling I'll run up against the character limit for comments. What kind of wood do you have? How will it be finished? What is the basic construction style desired, face frame or Euro? What hinge hardware do you have or want? Is there backing? Solid wood or plywood? What wood working tools do you have available? Are you willing to acquire or rent what you need, within reason? Where will this be used, garage, bedroom, living room? Each implies a different quality of cabinetry. Is it wall mounted or floor standing? How much time are you willing to put in to this? What is you general skill level in woodworking?

You can see there's a lot of factors to consider for an ideal design. You don't really need to answer all of these, but the more you can communicate your expectations, the better an answer you will get. In reality you could end up just screwing together some basic butt joints and have a serviceable box, but it will not exude an aura of quality woodworking. Or it could be a literal work of art. Something in between probably, but where?

Hard to work without plans? How about hard to answer without information? :)


Is it normal for an exhaust fan cover to hang below the finished ceiling?

This is not normal. The trim plate should be tight against the finished ceiling.

You might be able to simply push the trim plate up, where it will lock into place. If that doesn't work, you'll have to adjust the retaining clips to hold the plate in place.


My breaker panel is in a sump closet, should I move it?

First off -- if the sump/sump pump protrude above the surrounding floor level, then they are a 110.26(E)(1)(a) violation:

  (a) Dedicated Electrical Space. The space equal to the width and depth of
  the equipment and extending from the floor to a height of 1.8 m (6 ft) above
  the equipment or to the structural ceiling, whichever is lower, shall be
  dedicated to the electrical installation. No piping, ducts, leak protection
  apparatus, or other equipment foreign to the electrical installation shall be
  located in this zone.

Second -- even if the sump doesn't violate the letter of 110.26(E)(1)(a), it could still be seen as a violation of 110.26, as it poses a potential tripping or wet-surface hazard to someone working on the equipment:

  110.26 Spaces About Electrical Equipment. Access and working space shall
  be provided and maintained about all electrical equipment to permit ready and
  safe operation and maintenance of such equipment.

So, I'd move the panel if feasible; at the very least, I'd talk to the AHJ about it -- I'd want to have an official interpretation on file for such a situation, even if the panel can't move.

Also, will the closet itself let the panel door open the full 90deg, and is there a space in front of the panel above the floor at least 30" wide and 36" deep? If either of those things are false, then the panel must move anyway, as the NEC working clearance rules in 110.26(A) would then be violated.


Is it safe to ground electrical appliance?

Is it safe?  Assuming your ground isn't faulty, yes.  But there's no need.

In order to meet code, an appliance with an ungrounded metal frame needs to be double insulated: that is, it needs to be designed in a way that it takes two failures for the exposed metal to become electrically live.  For example, in your lamp this could take the form of insulated wires plus a non-conductive paint on the inner surface of any metal the wires might contact if they broke.


Given that the low pressure readings throughout your house were taken with zero flow from the water main to the house, the only possible cause is low water pressure in the water main.  There's nothing on your household side that could cause this zero flow low pressure reading.

There will be a height factor.  The higher you are above the connection to the water main, the lower the static pressure will be.  A rough guide is that you lose 1 psi for every 2 feet of vertical rise. Clearly, you can easily reach a height that the water cannot reach.

A consequence of this is that you, and all the others experiencing this low pressure, represent a potential hazard because of possible backflow into the water main.

Here http://www.freetoursbyfoot.com/water-towers-new-york/, is how the problem is solved in New York City, where tall buildings overwhelm the normal water main pressure.

Is your local utility missing a water tower?


Can I plug a fridge freezer into a short extension lead?

Get an extension lead rated for 13 A. You can get rubberised ones which are a bit tougher - you don't want to skimp on the price.

Make sure it has some provision for mounting it on the wall and do so (use screws that won't rust, like brass or zinc-galvanised). That way, if water gets into the garage (like on those days it rains sideways) it won't get to the extension sockets.

It would be best to make sure that there is no way for condensation on the lead to trickle into either end - the plug end will be ok as that hangs down with UK sockets installed the right way up. For the extension outlet end, you just need to leave the cord hanging downwards a bit.

You might want to label the plugs with sticky labels or a marker pen.

Or you might have a electrician mate down the pub who'll install an extra double socket for the price of the parts and a couple of beers :)


Why do phone and cables companies leave their cables behind, and what to do about it?

Downed wires are downed wires! STAY THE HELL AWAY
You are talking about a wire which comes down from the pole and comes near the ground.   That is a "Downed Wire".  They are dangerous as all getout, because they can have live voltage on them.
You should not even be close enough to tell if they are cable TV vs phone wire!  STAY AWAY - STAY ALIVE.
Even if they were telecomm, you have no idea what they are attached to (or what they got tangled up in) on the other end. Technology changes are obliging phone and cable companies to fit powered equipment on the poletop, and having to take whatever power is available there, be it 240V, 277V or 2400V.
I do work on overhead lines from buckets and towers.  The golden rule of not getting dead doing that is that the bucket/tower lives in "poletop world", and that vs ground world is matter vs antimatter.  Nothing ever, ever is allowed to drape or be let down from "poletop world" to "ground world".
Call the power company and report a downed line
Pardon the sarcasm, but it illustrates the point: "Before you call us, step really close to the wire and see if it's phone line or coax" said no power company employee, ever.  That would be a deranged thing to tell the public, because sooner or later one would turn out to be energized.
The PoCo will come out and deal with it, with extreme prejudice.
If it is indeed a telecomm line, they will remind the telecomm company of the terms and conditions of their lease of space on the pole.   And maybe send them a bill for the service call.  So, profit center for the PoCo lol.


Is a drain snake the right tool to clean a long-term clogged bath pipe?

A. Chemical drain cleaner ought to do a reasonable job in this situation
B. Yes there are snakes with attachments like you suggest
C. If you are renting perhaps the inaccessible part of the plumbing is the owner's responsibility.  Without getting into a big discussion about legalities wherever you are, you could ask nicely.
D. Usually a frequently blocking bath drain is caused by someone with long hair who uses too much conditioner.  Get a good hair screen for your tub drain and instruct any such user to clean it during and after each use and to go easier on Hair products.  Require each such user to participate in the disgusting business of clearing the drain.
E.  A common horizontal pipe shared with the kitchen is a whole other level of problems.  I've never seen that before.  The combination of cooking fats etc plus hair is formidable.  Assuming you don't own this mess and can't improve it, you may want to create some kind of Easy Access to do cle an outs.


Can I use a 16/3 extension cord for a refrigerator?

Wire gauge tables for 16AWG list the maximum carrying current from 4 to 10 amps continuous; for 18AWG, 2 to 5 amps (for under 50-ft lengths, at least).  I think it's unlikely that your fridge draws more than 2 amps under any conditions ( if you have a tag on the unit which lists watts, just divide watts by 120 (voltage) to get amps), so any extension cord you have will be fine.  However, if the fridge has a 3-prong plug, be sure to use a matching 3-wire extension cord for grounding safety.


Run humidifier while furnace is not heating but fan is running?

I have had to replace ductwork on systems that allowed the humidification while the fan was not running. In one case the duct work buckled and collected enough water to come through the Sheetrock, several others the ductwork rusted out. There needs to be water sensors and if moisture is detected below the humidifier it needs to be shut down as the water is collecting there, if the air is not circulating a in duct humidifier will only cause problems if on with no flow in my experience.


Is replacing the nails with gasketed screws likely to remedy leaks in a metal shed roof?

I would think that if the nails are the leak source then yes replace them with rubber gasket-ed screws, but put some quad sealant in each hole before driving the screw in.


Is it safe to put a gas furnace in the same room as an electric clothes dryer?

Simple answer, yes, definitely. Absolutely no reason not to.


Why is the mouse eating the cabinet shelves only

I asked my cat about this and she says she knows how mice operate and doesn't even need to see pictures of the damaged cabinets.
She says no doubt the mouse is entering the cabinet in a shelf that has no food on it, and is trying to chew his way from that shelf to another, where the stuffing, bread crumbs, etc. are stored.
If you leave the cabinet doors open overnight, the mouse will leave your shelves alone and confine his depredations to more traditional fare.
Of course, cats are supremely arrogant and often present mere guesses as qualified opinion, so she could be wrong.


Ran new 5 wire from tstat to junction box, replaced the spice going to condensor with with yellow then new 5 wire down to air handler. If course using blue for common.


Is it normal to have your load bearing wall not line up with your basement support posts and joist?

Yes, it’s acceptable to have bearing walls NOT align vertically, provided: 1) the walls are less distance apart than the depth of the joists, or 2) the side that has the upper bearing wall rests on a considerably shorter span, 3) the load is accounted for in the design of the joists.

1) If the upper wall is slightly off center, the upper load will transfer at about a 45 degree angle vertically down through the joists.

2) Usually all the floor joists are the same size (and spacing) throughout the house. The size is based on the longest span, so the shorter spans are “over designed”. Therefore, if the upper load bearing wall rests on a set of joists that have have a much shorter span, it’s probably ok, as long as it’s not in the middle third of the span or the load is minor.

3) Often we’ll just calculate the loads and verify that the joists are not overloaded.


You can always make wires larger than are strictly required.
So if your hots and neutral all must be #6, you are welcome to make the neutral #4.
In fact, one sneaky reason to do this is that a #6 neutral MUST be white or gray. Whereas a #4 can be generic black, and marked with white or gray tape to designate it as neutral.  So if you wanted to avoid a run to the store, it might be a good play.
The Code requirement there is that #6 or smaller wires must be white or gray for neutral, green, yellow-green or bare for ground, and hot can be any other color.  With #4 or larger, the electrical supply houses don't want to stock 3  colors of the big stuff, so Code allows you to re-mark with tape or paint to any base color, to indicate the function.


Simple remote outdoor light switch that fits in a receptical box

You could run 3-conductor wire (plus ground) from the house to the pole.  It will have black and red hots.  You could switch the red hot in the house, and run the black hot to the pole where the motion detector can switch it.  Then at the light, connect the red from the house, and the output of the motion detector to the light.

However, you're better off using a home-automation capable light with motion detector and remote.  Some of those will even let you add a chime later if you want to know when there's motion.