How to fix scuffs and scratches on wood door?

I would go to a home store and look for a “scuff repair pencil” you need to replace the color first once you have it close then a light sanding and touch up varnish can hide these scrapes and scuffs. Next time you will know it is easier to pull 2 or possibly 3 hinge pins and not damage the door. Pulling hinge pins normally only takes a minute or 2 and the door is not damaged.


What Happens When a Copper Wired Component is Introduced into an Antique Lamp with Aluminum Wiring?

I doubt it was aluminum wiring , in fact silver or tinned copper is more likely for fixture wire , butt connectors would work ok for either of the 2. If aluminum corrosion may have already started. I would check for signs of thermal stress at the connectors. I actually have run into silver several times because silver was available at times when copper was not but including solid silver buss bars . I have never seen aluminum fixture wire.
Note tinned copper looks just like aluminum but aluminum is brittle and just a bend or 2 it starts cracking and breaks. But I doubt it is aluminum.


Dishwasher Not draining at the end of the cycle

First step always, check the filter of the dishwasher. If once cleaned the problem hasn't been solved, check the drain hose, if still is not draining. In some models, not all of them, check the drain valve (if it's frozen, then the solenoid valve should be replaced).

The first step is the easiest and fastest one, the last one is not so easy (and includes some electrical knowledge). Believe me, people usually don't know how many times problems are solved (dishwasher, washing machines, water purifiers...) only cleaning filters.


What plaster compounds should be used when plastering an unheated building?

Don't put plaster on OSB. Put plaster on plasterboard aka blueboard. OSB is very moisture sensitive. Your plan will eventually result in rotten, swelled OSB with plaster falling off of it, especially if the building won't be heated.


Running new electrical with drywall removed, but insulation installed

I find batt insulation easy to pull out and re-install. Drilling near existing fiberglass (guessing that is what you have) can lead to strands getting caught in the bit and spinning.

I recommend pull out the batts of insulation, do the electrical work and they reinstall the same batts you pulled.

Also assuming you have vapor barrier or retarder on the face (probably what the staples are in), you can try saving the vapor barrier but it may rip. Just add another layer of Kraft paper or 6 mil poly sheeting to replace the old stuff.


Why has one of my two propane fireplaces suddenly gone completely out?

Before I speak to the problem of the one fireplace not working let me say a couple of things.  First, these types of appliances; gas logs in open masonry fire places are some of the least efficient ways to heat a room.  The vast majority of what little heat they make goes up the chimney. In a given 24-hour period you could experience a net loss in heat to the space.  Second, those units should not be used without their logs in place.  The logs are an integral of the appliance and its safe burning. They are an approved appliance if they are used according to manufacturer's instructions.  With out the logs, they are not an approved appliance.  As to the malfunction in the bedroom unit, it is probably something simple to repair. And those units have layers of built-in safety. No cause for alarm.  Simply because it is not burning is no indication that it represents a hazard.  Without a standing pilot all the valves close to stop any flow of gas. You may just need to relight the pilot, after you get the logs set properly.


How can I drill holes less than 1" from a wall?

Various methods, the most accessible of which tends to be a long drill bit - 12-18" long, allowing the chuck to get out of the way.
If you don't flex the bit, the slight angle (not quite perpendicular) is generally not a problem, but under the guise of "aircraft drills" there are very long bits with short flutes and a long smooth shank that flex sufficiently that you can get them perpendicular, if needed.
A physically smaller drill chuck is the more obvious but generally less accessible method.


What could cause radon levels to be higher on the 3rd floor than the 1st and 2nd?

Those are some high numbers, 4-pico's is the standard "something needs to done" threshold. But, the difference in readings has to do with ventilation & thereby natural convection.

All air will rise or be drawn-up in a 3-story building, drawing is what's happening with the 2nd floor's lower readings & they're being added to the 3rd floor. Additionally, this rise or draw is magnified when exhaust fans are used or windows & exterior doors are opened.

It's best to treat or remove Radon at it's before it enters the structure so the entire structure is then cleared or reduced of Radon levels. However, this could result in more tenant turnover & higher rents...I'm just saying (I'm joking).


Do I need an air admittance valve for my basement shower?

Yes it sounds like you do need to install the air admittance valve, and yes you may need to add more, depending on the distances the other drains are from the one you plan to install. I know for toilets the max is 5 ft. Sinks may be 3 ft., but that is almost a guess, I have moved more toilets than sinks.


How to project basement level of humidity before building?

If you have to account for water penetrating the basement, then you likely don't want to be building a basement there.

If you're building from scratch, you'll ideally build a basement that is properly waterproofed and insulated from the outside and is set up to handle any drainage issues.

At that point, the humidity you have to deal with will be airborne. That humidity comes from the air...so for instance, if you live in MN in the summer, you'll note that it's incredibly humid. The basement tends to be cooler, allowing some of that humidity to condense, and basements tend to not have much air flow, so it can build up.

The solution to that problem is to include the basement as part of your conditioned space. Ideally it would have AC and Heat, but, barring that, you'll want to have a dehumidifier running.


Brown, yellow, and orange wires in a wall switch

First off -- the only guarantees found in North American electrical code are that neutrals are white or grey (but not all whites are neutral) and grounds are green, green/yellow striped, or bare.  Things that are neither ground nor neutral can be any other color -- the reason black, red, and to a lesser extent blue are common is because those colors are what you get with NM cable.

HOWEVER: in a large building like your condo, the wiring will likely be done in conduit instead, which means that you won't find a ground wire (as the conduit subs in for that) and the other wires can be any color whatsoever other than green, white, or grey.

I suspect the yellow wires are hot, by the way, as there are two of them to the same screw on the switch -- that implies that the orange is switched, going off to whatever that switch controls.  It's a lot harder to tell on the other switch, but perhaps the red is hot and the brown is switched? Note that a standard single pole dimmer or switch doesn't care which way it is hooked up -- the two brass terminals or black pigtail wires on the switch or dimmer are interchangeable and equivalent.

By the way, when you do put a dimmer in -- it'd be a travesty if you threw a nice, spec-grade switch with wire-clamp plates out in the garbage and put the cheapest builder-grade trash dimmer in in its place. Get a decent spec-grade dimmer from the likes of Lutron, Leviton, or Cooper; it'll stand a good chance of being move-in-ready for whoever you sell your condo to if/when you move out.  (The switch is good as a spare, too, if say the next person who moves in hates dimmers, or you need it for something else.)


Spring water in basement of new construction

I have had several daylight basements, the thing to do now is to install drains from beyond the spring to outside the building envelope, if you do this no pump will be needed. If it was my place I would install a drain on the 3 sides with drains at each end of the home, as far as other problems this will eliminate any problems the weeping of the spring in natural and the water will run no matter what you do so provide an easy path for it to get outside the building and you won’t have to plug the pump in.


Vertical centering with a subway tile backsplash

This is verging on "close as opinion based," but I'd use a full tile on the bottom, since you rarely, if ever, see the top tile under the cabinet, unless you are just barely taller than counter height, or lying on the floor. The one just above the counter you see all the time if you are of normal height and standing/sitting.

I have also been known to choose a border/trim of a smaller tile to make less fussy cutting and an accent feature for short people or those lying on the floor.


Installing a projector a ceiling junction box

Your cord penetration needs to either be grommeted, or use a proper cable clamp in a standard knockout hole. They sell junction box covers with standard knockout holes.

Mechanically, what you did is fine as long as the projector weighs less than 4 pounds.  If it weighs more, you need to properly tie into the fan support structure in the way that you might for a chandelier.

The data cable cannot run in the same in-wall conduit or raceway as the power cables.  You might consider stick-on surface mount wire loom for the low-voltage cables.  Alternately, you could remove all mains voltage wires from the conduit, and replace them with signal cables and 12/18/24VDC to power the projector, e.g. Extend the wires on the projector's wall wart.


It needs to have a cap to keep out rocks, not rain.

Outdoor conduit is supposed to be full of water. That is normal and you are expected to select wires which are designed for that.

To set expectations correctly, I recommend pouring a cup of water into every outdoor conduit! It will happen anyway.


This is less an answer than a rambling commentary, so please bear with me.

Isherwood might be on to something about your measuring... you might have plain old 32" doors without realizing it.

But if you don't, and you need to do some surgery, here's a few points:

buy from a real door place... not a big box. You'll be able to pick the price point that gets you an adequate amount of wood in the stiles. (And they're apt to know what they're selling.) Plus, you'll be able to specify unbored and unmortised.
if your existing doors fit well, you could even bring the doors to the aforementioned door place as templates and let them cut/bore/hinge them for a modest fee. On a good day, they'll dispose of them as well.
if you're doing surgery on the doors, think about a power planer. A tablesaw (even one with a beautiful outfeed table) isn't going to be good at cutting the subtle curves you find in existing doors. And I can't imagine cutting tops/bottoms on a tablesaw.
again, if you're all diy and want another excuse to buy tools, get a used midsized router (1-1/2hp; the classic in the category is the porter cable 690; $50-100 on craigslist) and a hinge butt template (P-C 59380 is the grand-daddy of them all; $100-200 on CL, though slightly rare and not terribly fast to re-sell after you're done. Just know what should be in the box, as the missing knobs and doohickeys are nearly impossible to replace.)
I swear I won't assault your wallet by suggesting a boring jig, but the Classic Engineering 10800 boring jig is really nice.

Good luck on the project.


Don't bore/notch in middle third of a joist... span or member?

Answering my own question after a more thorough reading of the spec.

  R502.8.1 Sawn lumber. Notches in solid lumber joists, rafters and beams shall not exceed one-sixth of the depth of the
  member, shall not be longer than one-third of the depth of the member and shall not be located in the middle one-third of
  the span.

And it includes this very helpful graphic:

So the answer is:

A bearer does make a continuous joist into two spans.
I can notch between 0'-4', 8'-16', and 20'-24'.


Can I use double sided tape to install carpet on a concrete floor?

There is a type of very strong double sided tape that you can find at a carpet supply house. However, that would be harder to remove from the floor when you decide to change the carpet (it's very very strong).

If it were me, I would use a product called "spray tack" also found at carpet supply shop. Or big box stores sell a similar product by 3M, it's just spray adhesive.

The real deal carpet supply house spray is much better, but either would do the trick. Spray just the floor for a quick bond, or spray the floor and back of carpet for more secure bond. Either way it will be easy to remove when/if you decide to remove it.


How to ensure shower handle flushed when replacing shower wall to tiled wall

Before I address your question, I just want to say drywall isn't necessary.  Attach your cement board directly to the studs but put a plastic sheet in between them.  Then tile on the cement board.

Now for the valve placement, I wouldn't leave it dangling like this.  Once I figured out the correct location and depth, I put a wood block behind it, secure it to the studs and attach the pipe to wood block with brackets.

For the depth of the valve, be super careful and triple measure things. Best would be to buy your valve, cartridge, shower trim, tiles, and cement board and have them in hand.  Make a little cement board template w/ the hole, attach your tiles w/ double sided tape, and put the trim on. Account for the thinset as well.

The trim usually has wiggle room, and you can be off +/- 1/4".  Usually, when it comes to this part, I take my sweet time and take a look at it multiple times and try to imagine what can go wrong.  Once you close the walls, it's too late.

One last tip, make sure the valve is perpendicular to the wall. Else the trim will not be flush to the tiles around its entire circumference.


ESPECIALLY with mostly gas appliances, I wouldn't worry about it. I have a small woodworking shop that I feed with a 60A feeder breaker and I have NEVER tripped it. What you have to remember is that if it's just YOU working in the shop, you are not going to be running more than one tool at a time, plus maybe a dust collector (highly recommended by the way) and some lighting. Homeowner type 240V single phase bench power tools are generally limited to 2HP, so about 12A at 240V worst-case scenario. It's not going to be a problem.


How can I prevent the fireplace smell when the A/C is on?

One way would be a Heat Recovery Ventilator(HRV) that exchanges interior air for outside, which will relieve negative pressure.

Another would be a dampered (and screened) make-up air that connects to the cold air return (a low tech (and low cost) HRV).  These can be tied to exhaust fans or automatic via pressure differential.  You would want a HVAC firm to discuss options.

A third would be a cable operated chimney cap damper.  The stove may complicate this option.  I had one on a naturally aspirated fireplace and was good during rain and windy conditions that used to produce that "old fire" smell.


Is the light/fan combo in my shower safe?

For the record, I have never liked lights (or fans) in the shower, because they are a maintenance nightmare. That being said I know of no restriction about putting one in a shower area unless you are able to touch it or it comes into contact with the spray of the shower. So I am assuming your fixture/fan is high enough to meet all jurisdictional codes.

My only question would be if this was installed during construction or was an add in by a previous owner. If it's the latter, you may want to check with local code enforcement to see if it should be removed. I like your idea of never using it.

Stay safe.


Effectively clearing out solvent fumes from a workshop

Exhaust fan.
Explosion-proof preferred, but if you're quite sure you don't need that...
If you set up an area as a low-tech fume hood it will be more effective if you can keep the solvent work in that area.


Can I sink a hot water copper pipe into the ground and keep the heating functionality

The hot water baseboard heating will be heating the room mostly due to radiative surfaces that conduct the heat out of the water pipe and into the air of the room. For this to work there needs to be allowance for the air in the room to naturally move from the heater area and into the room.

If you cover it up it will not be heating the room in the same way.

If you end up having to bypass the hot water piping beyond the area where you are now placing cabinets you will have to arrange for alternate radiative devices to be installed elsewhere in the room so that the heating can be effective.


How does my Boiler work with my Baseboard and thermostat

Most likely, the thermostat simply actuates a valve, which allows hot water to flow through your radiator.  There's likely a main central circulation loop, with individual "heating loops" for each unit branching off. When your thermostat calls for heat, the valve allows the hot water to flow through your "heating loop".

As for what type of thermostat you can use, that completely depends on the system, the building, and the lease agreement.


How can I adjust my dimmers to work the way I want?

To set your INSTEON dimmer module's On-Level:

Use either the local buttons on your dimmer module or a Linked INSTEON Controller to adjust the light to the desired brightness.

Press & hold the On button on the dimmer module or Controller to brighten the light. Release at the desired brightness.

Press & hold the Off button on the dimmer module or Controller to dim the light. Release at the desired brightness.
Once the desired brightness has been achieved, tap the Set button on your dimmer module once.

The load will flash. Some INSTEON models will beep once. The local On-Level has now been set.
Test the On-Level settings by pressing the On/Off buttons on your dimmer module.

For full reference, use the manual:
http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2476D_Manual_(Rev_5.0)#Setting_the_On-Level

Note that if you link within 4 minutes of setting the level, it will be used as the link on-level instead, so don't link it if you're trying to set the local on-level (as you are).


How do I adjust for a door jamb that's thicker than the wall?

The "normal" way to deal with this issue is to disassemble the replacement door jamb and rip it to the proper width. The ripping is best handled with a table saw or radial arm saw.
Then reassemble the jamb for installation.


Temperature control when I can't affect either airflow or thermostat

Get a carbon monoxide detector, and block of one or more of the non-bedroom vents.  This will force more of the warm air to your bedroom.  You can just tape cardboard over the vent or they make magnetic vent blockers that are pretty cheap.

I believe that you will be able to use a modern thermostat.  The wiring may be confusing but if you read the thermostat manual you can probably figure it out.  Save the old thermostat and take the new one with you to your next place.


Repairing hollowed out hole in hardwood floor

You should buy a colored wood filler that most closely matches the color of your floor and pack it in there to fill. Carefully sand the filled area, hit it with additional stain if necessary, then varnish the patch.

Note: prior to patching you should investigate the cause... cuz it sure looks like termite damage. You could treat the area with local termite killer spray prior to patching but if you have widespread or structural infestation you may need a more invasive technique (tent the house).


Depends on how slight you mean by slightly.


What do you call those little round rubber things in door jambs?

I don't know if this is the "official" name, but if you search online for "Cabinet Bumper", I believe you will find exactly the item you are looking for. So it could be assumed that is what they are called - you already answered your own question.
Some alternative names I saw:

Surface Bumper
Bumper Pad


Should the backer board be in front of or behind the tub flange?

Let's look at the three pictures above.

#1 - This is probably the most common install.  You cement board is on the same plane as the flange.  It is thicker so it ends up hanging over.

Tip - If you are using cement board by itself I would strongly suggest using 1/2 inch.  Also I am a strong supporter of hardibacker since it doesn't allow water through or hold water.  Durarock is a great product but I use hardibacker in wet areas.

#2 - Some people are going to look at this and say never do it.  Well it is done.  Two main reasons.  First is the tub tub deck isn't exactly flat.  Some bow towards the middle.  This allows the backer board to almost sit it on some spots and maybe be 1/4-1/2 inch up in others.  The second is smaller tiles.  If you are going small glass mosaic all the way up not only should you do this but it is a must.  If you stagger the backer the bottom tiles could move if hit near their bottoms (especially if you are caulking the deck to tile transition).

Tip - In a lot of my tub surround installs I start with 1/4" drywall, plastic sheet (moisture barrier) then 1/4 hardiboard.  This is a fast install, allows you to get something like picture #2 minus the furring strips (which are not fast), the 1/4 inch backer is much easier to get screws in right, and with a total of a half inch you can meet the rest of the room.  I read about this install over at the johnbridge forums probably 8-9 years ago and have done at least 20 this way without one issue (2 in my home).

#3 - Same deal as the first picture but with a goofy flange.  Again you could use furring strip or drywall.

Tip - Once you fur out the back or the front of your tub you have a dilemma.  How do I meet up with the rest of the room.  Let's first of all say you need to fur out a 1/2 inch.  Wow if you fur out and put up 1/2 inch backer you are out an inch.  So that is why I say to keep the drywall+backer method in your back pocket.  You can go 1/2 inch drywall then 1/4 inch backer.  Also how do you meet up with the rest of the room?  Well if it is a small bathroom I have double layered drywall along a wall.  This is very easy to do and maybe $20 in materials vs furring out the whole wall - which is harder to match things up. An alternative in this case is to use 5/8 for the rest of your room and transition under tile work.  Very easy to build up 1/8 inch using extra thinset.

Normal Install Instructions

If you need to push out the install add furring strips or drywall.
Staple moisture barrier (plastic sheathing) to the studs (or furring strips or drywall).  The plastic should go a few inches into tub deck and above your highest backer board.  It if fine to take it to the ceiling too.
Screw in backer board using roofing nails and approved screws.  First every piece should have 6-8 screws.  They are a pain to get flush so use roofing nails for the rest (need at least 1 1/4 inch).
Put up your alkali resistant mesh tape on all backer to backer seams (gray mesh sold near backer boards at the big box).  If it doesn't say alkali resistant it isn't so don't buy the drywall mesh.
I strongly suggest that you hide backer to drywall transitions under tile.  When I do a normal tub surround I buy 4 pieces of backer.  One goes up vertical on each side (5 feet), one horizontal on the back, and another cut at 2 feet horizontal so that we have 5 feet above tub deck all the way around.  Drywall above that .  I even do the drywall if tiling to the ceiling.  Then the tile is going to at least 5 1/2 feet above the deck and 3 1/2 feet from the wall.  No transitions for me.
First step of tiling day is to mix thinset a little on the soft side.  Go over the joints that have your mesh tape and fill them in.
Plan your tiling pattern.  If you have to make cuts, hide them in the corner. Plan to never cut your tiles height-wise - just tile a little higher (or lower).
Start at the bottom.  With bigger tiles you may need to start at the second row and have them sit on a strip until the thinset is strong enough to not sag.  Make sure your bottom row is 1/8 inch from tub deck.  Note that on curved tub deck you might have to be 1/16 of an inch on some parts and much bigger on others.
After you are done tiling cut the plastic right at the tile level all the way around.  Push plastic under tile gap.
With the new cheap plastic tub you pretty much have to caulk the deck to tile transition.  For heavier more solid tubs you can grout this area.  I like grouting the bottom because you can always go over it with caulk in the future.  People will say to never grout because it will crack.  As I mention above it depends on the type of tub.
Caulk your corners and caulk the top area of tile.


How do I find out who manufactured the plumbing in my home?

You would physically examine the pipe to find markings printed during the manufacture, which are usually printed in blue or black and identify the size, grade, and sometimes the manufacturer and batch.


Pilot lights, but main burners don't on furnace with no flame sensor

There is a thermocouple, the thing that is glowing red in the pilot light that tells the furnace the pilot lit.
If that is bad it will continue to try to light the pilot. They are not real expensive but that would be the first thing to replace.


Possible to refinish pressed-wood cabinets?

Your cabinets are probably a melamine covered press particle board type. You should be able to use the Rustoleum product you mentioned in your question.  You could also paint them.  What you cannot do is sand and stain them because there is no real wood veneer to work with.


Appropriate conduit for several data cables underground over 300' run

Speaking as someone who does a LOT of data cables...

Pray to your deity of choice regarding (lack of) lightning nearby. The extent to which I prefer fiber optic for outside data runs is influenced by years of dealing with copper outside data runs, and the failures resulting - but few, if any, cameras are set up for power + fiber optic, so you'll want a nice POE-friendly surge suppressor at the point where these cables enter your building, tied into the building grounding/earthing system. Else you will have burnt out data ports, almost certainly, eventually.

As already mentioned, don't even think of putting non-wet-rated cable in exterior conduit. It may work for a while, but it will fail, usually at "not a good time." I personally prefer a "dry gel" cable and tend to get stuff which purports to be direct burial, but I run it in conduit as I hate digging trenches twice, and I trust rodents to chew on direct burial cables.

You can not bother to glue the joints at all, or you can glue the joints with great care. If the conduit is PERFECTLY waterproof, it will still fill with water, as moist air will enter and moisture will condense, and stay in the conduit. All outside conduits are defined as wet locations, and all cables in them must be wet rated, or failures will be expected.

Run 2" conduit if you like, but it's going to be massive overkill for four 4-pair data cables unless you get some absurdly thick jackets. Nice to have more room than you need, but there is a point of absurdity. Two examples of 24AWG Cat 5e direct burial in stock are right around 0.25" diameter for a net area of 0.05 square inches each - roughly equivalent to 6AWG wire, where (less than) 40% fill would be 1" (rigid) schedule 80 conduit, (or 3/4" schedule 40, but I prefer 80 by a large margin.) So 1-1/4" would be more than generous sizing and cost you quite a bit less. Where things are more unknown, 2" is nice just because if you don't know, you don't, but if 4 data cables is it, 2" is, IMHO, Massive Overkill. Save your money for something you actually need... Like those POE surge suppressors (not cheap, but inexpensive as compared to the equipment you will lose otherwise.)

Most "real" POE devices work just fine at 100 meters on 24Ga cable from the 48V POE power supply - the device power supply is generally flexible and expects to be able to work on a short cable at full voltage or a long cable at lower delivered voltage, and most are not power hogs anyway. Early "half-baked" POE systems varied a lot more wildly, as may things which ARE powerhogs and outside the "real" POE standards.


How is lead soundproofing installed in walls being renovated?

Well, what we ended up doing is cutting the sheets into pieces that fit into the bays between the joists. So, the cross section looks like this:

An acoustic caulk was used between the sound proofing layer and the joist flanges.

The result was very effective. There is no sound transmission between the two rooms through the floor. It also made the floor much more stable. I can jump up and down on the floor, no vibration at all.


Some are paper and some are mica on old panels I have worked on , I believe I may have seen some fiberglass ones but not positive. As long as it is an insulator (not conductive) you should be fine. Your fuses don't get hot really when the blow that's the highest temp and this should be well below 451f the ignition point of paper.


Trying to place an outlet plate flat to the wall

JACK is talking about the drywall ears on the corner, which are designed to catch the edge of the drywall to hold the switch flush to the drywall.  That is because boxes are often sunk a bit into the drywall, because in new construction, boxes are installed before the drywall.  So the ability to install the box a bit "deep" gives the builder some tolerance to work with.
Anyway, if the box is sunk, you can take advantage of that, as JACK says.  Now first, you can try simply bending the drywall ears just right so the switch sits a little lower.   If you've already broken them off, do not leave the switch to float -- use shims to hold the switch at the right height.
Or, try other varieties of screw, such as a countersunk (aka flathead) or oval/pan head. The thread is #6-32. Don't change threadings; you will gore up the threads on the box, and then nothing will work.
Regardless, you must follow any instructions or labeling on the cover (NEC 110.3(B)).  The instructions are part of what UL approved when they approved the cover.


How does one determine whether a waterlogged High HP pump is electrically OK to use?

Provided that the motor did not run while wet, then the windings are probably fine because they are encased in enamel. But if it's still wet inside, or dirty, or you have a seized bearing, then trying to run it could burn out the windings. At that point you're looking at replacing the stator or the whole motor.

So the question of whether to run it or not should be based on how much it would cost to replace vs. service. If replacing the motor/pump is less than having the motor serviced, then power it up.


Improving insulation on windows and preventing heat loss

Ice forms in that location because 1) heat is lost where the two panes of glass are connected by the metal frame, and 2) cold air sinks to the bottom of the window opening. I don't see any red flags that indicate air leakage or other serious issues. The fact that the entire glass pane frosts up at times reinforces that position. You have simple heat conduction happening, with little or no air movement from exterior to interior.

I've lived in Minnesota for 25 years, and what you see there is nearly unavoidable in extremely cold weather. It's a result of heat loss through the window and excess moisture inside, and it's the reason window film was invented. I realize that the idea of applying film annually isn't terribly appealing, but it's probably your best bet here, short of replacing the windows. Only low-e glass panels and ultra-modern sealing and insulation, coupled with very good indoor humidity management, will completely prevent ice formation.


Can I use 2 runs of 10/2 UBF for my Shed 90’ from House?

You can't run 2 separate circuits of the same type to an outbuilding.

If they are 120V circuits you could run the two as a multi-wire branch circuit, which counts as 1 circuit.  You would need 10/3 cable for that.

Alternately, you could run a 10/3 or larger cable and feed that to a subpanel.  That may be more of a production than you want to get into, because it'll mean selecting a subpanel with a main breaker*, as well as driving two grounding rods.

* Actually the purpose of the main breaker is to be a disconnect switch.  You need one.  Choosing a main-breaker panel is the cheapest way to obtain this. You don't care what the value on the main breaker is.  It could be 200A for all you care lol.


My first thought is square flush tubing plugs. they come in all sizes, for tubing up to like 6".

Check out this web site: Mocap square tubing plugs

Should be pretty easy to pry out with a small tool when you need to. They are not advertised as perfect seals to keep out water, but unless an area depression causes standing water right by the hole, I bet they would do a pretty good job.


Using a circular saw set to the thickness of the sub floor, cut a square between the center of the two nearest joists. The saw is held on an angle and slowly lowered to the floor, then moved to the cut lines. BE CAREFUL WHEN LOWERING THE SAW KEEP YOU LIMBS AWAY FROM THE BACK OF THE BLADE if you lower the blade to fast, it can wheel off backwards cutting a leg or so! Once you cut out your square a new piece of sub floor of the same thickness can be screwed in place in the joists. A 2 x 4" can be placed on each end as a "nailer" to join the old sub floor to the new piece.

See How to plunge cut


The power, usually black, goes on the brass color screw. The other wire, usually white goes on the silver screw.  The box is only grounded if it is connected to the breaker box by continuious metal conduit or a ground wire.  The green ground wire is connected to the metal box and the green screw.  The green wire will not keep the outlet from working unless it is a ground fault plug.


Refurbish propane range top grates w/ KBS Coating XTC (rated to 1500 deg. F.) Suitable for a propane range grates? Exposed to direct flame?

Propane can reach temps well over 2000f as far as a stove top burner you might be right on the edge as the mixture is not as well mixed as a “turbo torch” that uses propane and air . We used the same coating in light blue for a quad header and it held up ok until we sold it. So it may be worth a try , I have never put a thermocouple in the flame.


What solutions exist for opening and closing a window very high up?

The usual approach is a "crank-type" casement window with a loop in place of the crank handle, and a hook on a pole (try "clerestory pole crank" as a search term) that engages the loop. There are also hex-type versions that use a flexible shaft inside the pole. Or, these days, motors. I'd suggest the hook on a pole, I view motors in this sort of application as things likely to fail and then make the motorized windows useless as they will probably be hard to replace when they fail. Or they'll leave you with inoperable windows during a power outage.... But it is an option.

A hook or hex style operator pole (image from BlaineWindow.com):

I can't make out how the current windows are operated - they might be able to be retrofitted with operators of that type, rather than replacing the whole window, if the only reason for replacing them would be to make them operable from below.

The style that @TDHofstetter mentions, with a catch that's operable by a hook (image from calaifornia-classics.com):


Is it safe or normal to close/cover junction boxes but use existing line to power new boxes just a few (6-12) inches away from the old ones?

There's no technical reason that he can't move the boxes. It would certainly be more elegant.

My best guess is that your electrician doesn't like drywall repair/ painting. If the ceiling is textured, that's a strong disincentive, as matching texture is hard.

He'll definitely save you money with his approach.


What are recommended clearances for a portable electrical generator?

The general advice seems to be

3 feet (1 meter) from buildings, equipment, and combustible materials.
10 feet away from bystanders, children, and pets.

But the only way to know for sure, is to read the manufacturer's documentation for your specific unit.

This service manual says "Keep the generator at least 1 meter (3 feet) away, including overhead, from any structure..."

This owner's manual says "Operate generator at least 3 feet (1 meter) away from buildings and other equipment."

This operator's manual says "Keep the generator a minimum of 3 feet away from all types of combustible material."

and also says "Keep all bystanders, children, and pets at least 10 feet away."


Strange noise any relation to well pump failing?

Before I tried calling the once local electric shop I trust and the one local well pump shop in the phone book I decided to go ahead and take a crack at it myself.  I assumed either the motor was toast or the start/stop switch/pressure assembly was bad.

I opened up the casing (with the power cord unplugged of course!) and found that the pressure switch (under pressure) forces the contactors (no true relay, has open air contactors) apart.  With no pressure in the system, they were firmly closed.  The module did have a number of bugs in it, so I forced the contactors open and cleaned them off.  I then scrubbed out the bugs from the rest of the control module, manually clicked the contactors a number of times (and they made a nice solid metallic click).  After that it was re-assembly and test time.  Hooked everything back up (pipes and all, since if it works I don't want to either run it dry for long or have to yank the plug out while it's pulling a full 3/4 hp worth of power (12 ish amps).

Did a full prime cycle and then multiple test cycles with no problems.  Ran out all my hoses and sprinklers and let the water flow.  Works perfectly now!


Gluing pvc quarter round in the shower corner

I'm guessing the "ugliness" is wide enough that a good bead of white caulk, which you'd expect in a shower corner, won't solve the problem. in that case, this will work fine and is something I've done before. One suggestion would be to use some  dabs of fast drying epoxy to secure it in place and then clear silicone caulk both sides of the corner trim, and the top and bottom. The reason for this is if you just use caulk you'll be holding the corner in place until the caulk hardens to prevent the corner from separating from the wall..... that will take a while. You might be able to tape it in place temporarily but that sometimes doesn't work. Good luck.


AFCI breakers in a Main Panel installed and tripping immediately with neutral pigtail connected

You need to move the neutrals for those circuits onto the breaker neutral lugs
Many AFCI breakers, yours included, have a ground-fault trip in them, set at around 30mA, in order to catch arcs and other firestartingly hazardous leakages to ground.  As a result, these AFCIs not only need their neutral pigtails connected to the neutral bus, they need the circuit neutrals connected to their neutral lugs, or else they will remind you of that requirement by instatripping on startup due to what appears to be an absolutely colossal ground fault (all the current going out through the breaker, yet none of it returning via the breaker neutral path).  (This is also required if you ever want to install a GFCI or DFCI breaker into your panel, by the way.)


AFCIs trip on ground faults too

Most AFCI breakers require the circuit neutral to be connected to the breaker like a GFCI breaker, not to the panelboard neutral bar.  This is done so that the AFCI can correctly detect certain classes of faults (such as a neutral to ground arc), but also gives them properties similar to a GFCI in that they will trip on the same wiring errors that trip GFCIs (such as improperly wired or shared neutrals), and will do so as soon as load is applied in the case of an errant neutral wire.   Fixing the neutral wiring will make them happy again.


Where is the C wire terminal on my boiler

Welcome Harj!

Looks like your boiler is steam. If it has all of the original equipment, it doesn't have a C connector. Even with new equipment, it probably doesn't have one. If it does, it will be right near where the thermostat wires connect to the boiler. You'll either need to get a plug-in transformer to get power from or you might be able to tap into a 24v transformer at the boiler if there is one.

This might help you if you want to use a existing transformer:
https://www.doityourself.com/forum/boilers-home-heating-steam-hot-water-systems/514502-need-c-wire-boiler.html


How to repair an GFCI outlet with a loose ground (green) screw?

I managed to fix it!

It seems there is also a little hole for Push-In ground wire and meant to be tighten with screw. The push-in hole gave me an opportunity. I first line up the inside and outside holes by gently shaking the receptacle. And then I insert a needle, in-lieu of the ground wire, through the push-in hole to apply pressure to the small holed plate from the inside. Finally, I screw in the screw. Good as new!


Options for Replacing T101 Rotary Timer With Switch

Replace it with a switch in a surface mount box

Once you get that switch and receptacle out of there (after turning the breaker off of course), you'll need to install a surface mount box -- I'd use a 4" square box with a single gang mud ring as handy boxes get tight quickly -- and use some cable clamps to bring the existing cables into the box (one will come in from the lower left and the other from the back right, from the appearances of things).  You may need a spare handy box as well in order to "jumbo pigtail" one of the cables to extend it with an extra length of 14/2 NM -- this will also be surface mounted, with a ground pigtail nutted in with the rest of the grounds and a blank cover over it.

You can then install a single pole switch -- the whites nut to each other, the blacks land on the switch hot (brass/black) screws, and the bare grounds nut to each other, a pigtail to a ground screw on the box, and a pigtail to the green ground screw on the switch.  Add a switch cover, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy!


Is a sealant needed in addition to caulking?

I have never heard of this recommendation. If you are caulking an area that will regularly be exposed to water (sink, shower, etc.) I use a silicone caulk.  Silicone caulk is 100% waterproof so there is no need to add any extra sort of sealer.


Is there a custom electrical outlet available with the connecting holes offset from the middle?

By "outlet" do you just mean the electrical connection box for the fixture? Outlet is the official name for a plug-in receptacle.

When your screws are in the wrong place, you use an adapter.

Another version:


While Code will let you use such a product, you need to be careful when doing so to avoid giving your HVAC system a case of the wheezes

I can find nothing in the 2015 or 2018 IRC that forbids the use of uninsulated flexible duct conforming to UL 181 Class 1 (the SDI limit in Code is 200) for HVAC supply or return air ducts located within the conditioned envelope.  However, there is a major caveat with this sort of product: it can put a real drag on airflow through it when installed improperly!

In particular, in order to correctly use flexible ducting in an HVAC system, you must stretch it all the way out when installing it, and support it so that it doesn't sag or collapse back on itself later, otherwise you will get excessive friction loss.  In other words, a sagging or unstretched flex duct restricts airflow through it, causing poor HVAC performance, and even excessive energy usage as many modern air handlers will fight to maintain airflow (CFM) despite the radically excessive static pressure needed to push air through the dodgy duct.


use a non contact voltage detector (its a small "pen" like instrument that when put near power will beep) to confirm which switch the power comes from. black will be your power wire, white is neutral and red is for the switch. (any one will zap you if not careful)

switch the breaker to the OFF position (Make sure you've got the right one!!) and replacing the switch is as easy as unscrewing the screws and reattaching the wires in their corresponding positions.


How can I remove a stuck overhead light fixture?

Looking at the geometry, it can only be paint holding it up.  I would stay away from any solvents.

I would add a second putty knife, with a stiff blade.  Use a slightly larger (wider to distribute the force of the lifting blade) putty knife against the ceiling (and under the lip of the fixture).  Put the stiffer, skinny blade between the wide blade and the fixture.  Pry up slightly, all around the   circumference of the fixture.  You will break it loose.

The prybar is overkill (in the photo), but illustrates how to protect the underlying drywall.  (Guess what happens if you use the prybar alone. Ask me why I know :-O)

Good plan by Christos regarding leaving the new fixture, though I believe you will succeed removing the original.


The only sure way to hunt down missing wires, without taking forever, without disturbing the walls, ceiling, or floor is to use a circuit tracer. I use a Mastech MS6818. It comes with a transmitter and a tracer and can be used on energized and unenergized circuits. It may be worth a homeowner to have one if he owns a house like yours and you are determined to track everything down. You might find a local contractor who also has and uses such a device, but I wouldn't let him in unless he has one in his hand when he comes to the door.

If all of that is too expensive your only other option is to verify that it is not a switch leg or some such and doesn't go anywhere. Then just wire nut it off and leave it in the box, then at least keep a mental note as to where it is in case you find something not working.

Good luck and stay safe.


Why does one of my LED flood lights randomly turn on and off?

Over the last couple of years I have installed hundreds of LED fixtures and relamped Flouresents to LED's every failure I have had has been due to a bad driver. I have some drivers totally fail no light, some fail by reducing the output, and others flicker or strobe. I have pulled each failure apart and none of the LED's have failed each time it has been the driver. On the expensive fixtures I have been able to repair the drivers when not potted but if potted I replace the drivers. There could be other causes but it sounds like the drivers are overheating and shutting down.


How can I get my three-way switches working as they should?

There are really only two possible scenarios (with minor variations):

Power to a switch box:

Power to light box:

If you have one of these and still can't make it work, update your question with some useful detail.


Adding a new switch with an independent light in an existing circuit - With photos

Whether you can simply break that light off the circuit and put it on a new switch depends completely on how the power is run.

If the light is fed in the ceiling, then yes you can just add a new switch.
Existing wiring:

With the new switch:

However if the power comes through the existing switch then no you will have to run a new feed to the light. That feed can go through the new switch (shown in the bottom diagram), or straight to the light whichever is easier.
Existing wiring:

The new diagram for this scenario:

Who said MS paint couldn't be used for wiring diagrams...


That screw looks like it's for the wire clamp that secures wiring going through the back of the junction box. Instead, you should connect the green wire with a wire nut to the exposed copper wires that I believe are visible in the bottom of the picture. Make sure to use the proper size wire nut, which is based on the wire size and number of wires being joined together.


I'm building a Deck. Is it cheaper to buy wood from a mill rather than a box store like Home Depot?

Most mills do not produce and sell treated wood rated for contact with the ground, so any wood in your deck that will be in contact with the ground should be treated, and gotten wherever it is to be got.

Buying wood from a mill is often cheaper, though it is not always. A smaller operation with a smaller economic influence (like most mills open to the public) will feel fluctuations in the supplies and prices of the commodities they consume in the production of lumber (fuel, electricity, trees, etc.) sharply, and so the price of their own offered commodity (lumber...) will vary sharply according to these fluctuations. A larger corporation like The Home Depot, Lowes, or Menards, likely has multiple sources for the commodities they need, they have bigger and deeper lines of credit, and a huge buffer of stock not on the shelves, insulating them from small localized changes in economies, so their prices will be more stable over the long term.

So the advantages to buying lumber from a mill that you can really count on are customization of lumber dimensions, greater choice of species of wood, and personalized service. The disadvantages vary by mill and your own preferences: is the wood air dried, kiln dried, or not dried at all and sold green? Is the wood graded by the sawyer? Is the wood sold rough cut or has it been planed?

The advantage to buying lumber from a box store is that although they might sell an average generic lumber, this average generic lumber is always there, every day, at a reasonably average price, and you don't have to call ahead, place an order, or make an appointment, you can write a check or use a credit card, and they are often open earlier in the morning and later into the evening. The disadvantage is that the experience of buying lumber from these places is often just as bland and lifeless as the lumber they sell.

Either way you go you might save money, and you might spend more. If saving money is the crux of the issue, compare quotes and go with the cheapest. If saving money is not the crux of the issue, call your local sawmill and make friends with them. You won't regret it. Your deck wood will look and feel unique because it will be, it will have a good story to go along with it right off the bat, and, if you ever get really ambitious you'll have a place to bring logs from trees you've chopped down for sawing into lumber that you can call your own. ;-)


Lower Sanitary T in Wall for new lower sink

You might need to use a Fernco coupling to get everything hooked back up. It's a rubber coupling with hose clamps to hold the rubber in place like this:
Source: SupplyHouse.com No endorsement of the vendor intended or implied - they just had a nice pic.
I'd use it on the 1 1/2" pipe up to the 2nd floor. Slide it on the 1 1/2" pipe, up and out of the way, hold it up with a piece of tape for now.
Glue a piece of 1 1/2" pipe in the top of the new sanitary tee.
Slip the new sanitary tee in place, glue it to the drain going down. The 1 1/2" piece sticking out of the top should just about touch the 1 1/2" piece coming down from upstairs.
Pull the tape and slide the Fernco down over the stub of 1 1/2" pip out the top of the sanitary tee. Tighten the hose clamps to spec.
Use 1 1/2" pipe to finish the trap to the new sink. You could use a screw together (slip joint) trap to make it easier to assemble, adjust, and take apart when someone drops something important down the drain.


How can I build a vertical hinging stair safety rail/siding?

Why not consider that the times when you need to move big things up and down the narrow stairs would be seldom and under specifically controlled conditions. For example think of a strategy where you only have the rail open when moving furniture up and down from the loft. This strategy can put a whole different spin on the type of scheme that you could use for temporarily removing the railing.

One approach could be to build the railing unit up in one or two sections and then bolt it into place using lag bolts or hex head bolts and T-Nuts embedded into the "mount to" frame if the stairway.

Another approach could utilize a mounting that worked much like the stake pockets used for truck and wagon side boards. These brackets look something like this:

This picture gives an idea of how these are utilized for trailer sides:

A similar scheme could be used for your railing whereby the sections of the railing could be simply lifted up to take them out and away for the furniture moving scenario. For safety sake a screw could easily be added through the bracket into the post to prevent accidental lifting out.


If neutral carries current back to the breaker panel, why doesn't it need to be connected to a switch?

The switch opens (turns off) the circuit, at which point electricity is not "flowing" through the circuit. The electricity flows to the first terminal on the switch, and then just sits there.  Think of it like a closed plumbing valve.  When the valve is closed, water flows to the valve, and then just sits there.  Once the valve is opened, the water can then flow through the plumbing.


Ceiling fan light dims up and down continuously

Remote Problem
Take the battery out of the remote and see if the problem goes away. If it does, try a fresh battery. If the problem comes back then you can try cleaning the contacts under the buttons or get a new remote.


What entities must get involved when building a new home or modifying the exterior of a home?

Code making bodies refer to them as the "Authority Having Jurisdiction" and they could be municipal, county or state depending on where you live.

I had to go to one entity to get a well and septic permit, another one to get an address for my property and a third to get my building permits.

It is an arduous process but is required to ensure safe building methods are used.

Good luck!


Exactly matching some particularly shade of tinted window will not be easy, even if you can identify the maker.

Your best bet is to find out who the architect was on your house. If your city planning department still has the drawings, they will have the architect's name on them. Alternatively if you know who the developer is they might be able to tell you the guy's name.

The architect will know where the windows came from and how to get replacements, if it is possible.


Some of the new LED lights would be great for this app.  A little expensive, but will last a long time.  Low temp, low profile and very bright.   Check them out, even at the box stores.


how to glue the broken plastic pieces that dovetails the faucet valve

You should look with great care and bright light for some indication of a brand name somewhere on the faucet. Because a replacement part is really the only viable solution (short of replacing the whole faucet.)

1: Plastic glues are almost always not as strong as the original part. IF the plastic is a solvent-weldable plastic and IF you have the correct solvent, you have the possible exception, if you do a good job solvent-welding it.

2: The original part broke, probably in part due to the plastic aging poorly - so if you do successfully glue it, it will probably break again, either in the same spot or a new spot.

Another option, depending how difficult it is to model, would be to have a new part 3D printed. But if you can buy a replacement (which starts with sorting out who made the faucet) that will be considerably less effort (unless you have someone that's dying to work cheap to show off what their 3D printer can do.)


It sounds like you are getting very questionable advice.

Wet drywall needs to be cut out and replaced. Damp drywall is a prime source of mold.  Cabinets that are bubbled halfway up have major water damage and may not be easily repaired.

You should consider getting an independent inspector to assess the damage and the repairs needed. If their view is significantly different from the position of the plumber (or his insurance company) you can try to get them to pay for the cost of inspection.


What size drill bit do I need for a 3/16" plastic anchor in tile?

If you are wary of making the holes larger (which is possible and as Tester101 says just make the hole in the tile larger) then you could just go for a smaller anchor and screw.

Obviously this will depend on whether the smaller screws are still a good fit for the holes in the hook. Also the load the hook can take might be reduced, but as you're not going to be swinging from it (hopefully!) you should be OK.


How do I remove shower handle to change stem?

I'm assuming the screw you removed was behind the plastic/metal cap on the front of the handle. That handle has probably been on there since you were born and will have to be worked off. What has worked for me in the past is sliding a wrench behind the handle, over that chrome sleeve and tapping the back of the handle to try and move it forward. Continue to also move the handle back and forth. If all this fails, you'll probably have to get a small wheel puller to do the job.  Good luck


Where can I find the U-factor (U-value) for a Pella window?

As with most items, there are good, better and best. With Pelli, you can break that down into another hundred parts or so.

Background:

In the construction industry, most items (locks, carpet, windows, roofing, etc.) are divided into “design grade” and “spec grade”.

Design Grade is the top grade and used by architects and contractors for top performance. Here clients are looking for the best long term performance. Here’s a sample of what architects select from: https://content.pella.com/cs/groups/public/documents/document/mhat/mdy2/~edisp/p-066812.pdf?_ga=2.190888361.2053217315.1575606363-1340307589.1575606363

Spec Grade is the lower grade and is usually used by spec builders, box stores, etc. These products are often chosen based on lowest cost. (If a manufacturer can “save a buck” to get the sale, they’ll do it at the expense of performance.) So a box store often has one low cost (and low performance) for home owners to choose.

Summary:

The “U value” of windows depends on 1) quality of frame, 2) number of panes of glass, 3) argon gas, 4) low E coatings, 5) air space between panes, etc.

So, in your “Example 1” where they show the window has a U-value of 0.27 it’s because the are using their lowest quality (and least expensive) frame and glazing.

However, in your “Example 2” they do not list a U-value because there are a gazillion glazing and frame options. (Thank you Pella for making it so complicated.) Here’s a sample of some U-values (appears to go down to 0.15) for a couple different style of Pella windows:
www.pella.com/professional/adm/Clad-Wood/Pella-ArchtctSrsTrad_Awning.pdf

Take your pick, but it looks like you can get something significantly better than the “Spec” windows at a box store...if you’re willing to pay for it.

Fortunately, Pella is a high service manufacturer, so call them and they’ll walk you through the performance of the options. Then call a glazing company to get a bid.


Best/easiest way to install access door to dead space in house

I'd recommend a prehung knee-wall door. A prehung door is already on hinges in a door frame. A small 24 x 48 door would be very manageable. You can buy them online in various sizes. I understand you're not an experienced handyman but a small pre hung door would be a fairly easy installation for you and since the door is hidden , if it's not aesthetically perfect - so what? You've learned something.
First of all you have to determine if it's a load-bearing wall. If it isn't, cutting out one stud and framing in the door would be fairly easy and there are plenty of diy Youtube videos on how to do it. If it is a load bearing wall come back to SE with that as a separate question.


In a multiwire branch circuit, can the two hots be connected to the same phase?

Yes, this does sound like a problem. Assuming your panel is like most, the breakers are on the same phase and you have two problems:
No Common Shutoff
MWBC is required to have common maintenance shutoff. That means if you turn off one breaker to work on the circuit, the other is turned off too. That is important for safety. This can be done with a handle-tie or by using a double-breaker. It is quite possible that a violation of this rule is what caused the problem in the first place! Without a handle-tie, and without realizing that the breaker is part of an MWBC, someone might move a breaker in order to accommodate other things, such as double-breakers for 240V circuits (dryer, oven, etc.). Once they do that, 50% chance that the 2 MWBC breakers will be on the same phase instead opposite phases.
When two breakers are side-by-side, a handle tie can be added. When the breakers are not side-by-side (with the special exception of the outer breakers of some quadplex breakers), you have to move at least one of the breakers to solve the problem.
Overloaded Neutral
Putting the two breakers on different phases (legs, poles, terminology varies and I'll leave it to the pros to argue that) means that the neutral will carry the difference between the two hots.
Putting the breakers on the same phase means the neutral will carry the sum of the two hots.
If you have a 15A circuit with 12A in use on each 1/2 of the MWBC, with different phases neutral carries nothing at all. With the same phase, neutral carries 24A, which is way too much for a 14 AWG wire. Neutral does not (normally) have a circuit breaker, so there is nothing to keep the neutral wire from overheating and starting a fire.


How to wire a light fixture with 3 white wires in box?

If the old fixture worked, at least one of the white wires is hot.

The easiest way to check which is hot is to use a non-contact tester. If the fixture is already removed, leave the two wires bundled together with a wire nut over the end. Put a wire nut on the single white wire. Turn the breaker back on.  Only one of those should register on tester. That is the hot side. The other should not register. That is the neutral.

Once you know which wire is hot, mark it with black tape or a permanent marker.

If the the fixture is still attached, you can do the same thing with the fixture hanging down. Once you know what is what, turn the breaker back off before wiring.

The black wire goes to the hot wire, the white to the neutral.  The ground wire should be attached to a green or bare wire if there is one in the box, or to the box itself if it is metal. If not, just cap it.


Just a layer of shrink wrap will be fine , as long as you prevent the moisture from getting up to it it will quit sweating.

Make sure to run the exhaust fans in the bathroom when bathing or using hot water to shave, also run your exhaust when cooking.

I found some really good stuff for sealing windows in the past that you put on the frame and shrink it with a hair dryer, I hade to make a “picture frame” and mount it as I had no trim mine was all Sheetrock. I made a frame put the film on it and then used finishing nails to hold it in place you can barely see the film , I thought I might take it down in the summer but it has been place for almost 5 years now
The stuff I used was 3m for insulation but I don’t remember a name.


Demolition of 1.5"+ tile/concrete floor on second story

Like you stated: masonry bladed saw set to cut just above or below the concrete base. If you snap lines to show a 2 foot x  2 foot quadrant to cut with the saw will make it much easier to remove concrete. You will need to expose the sub-floor to begin so that a pinch bar or long pry bar can be slid under each section and fulcrumed up. Have several abrasive masonry wheels on hand as they wear-out quickly. Hint: if you pry the concrete slab off the sub-floor slightly than it only takes a slight tap to break it apart with minimal shock to the floor framing.


What happens to outdoor douglas fir if protected but untreated?

Since it will be covered it won’t rot away but it will turn gray. I also live in the Pacific Northwest south of you , condensation is the biggest issue I see and occasional condensation is not a problem.
My riding arena  120’ with poly the entire length for light it is 30 + years old with no issues but is 22’ up so the color is far enough away we don’t notice the gray. I did paint the back porch because I thought the bare grey wood looked bad after a few years. So since it will be covered it won’t rot away but will turn gray.


Electric Power comes back when I open up warm tap water and then goes when I close the tap

Sorry I was on a rush. I'm in Germany and the device is called "Vaillant Durchlauferhitzer electronic VED E 27/7 Elektro-Durchlauferhitzer 27 kW" heizungsdiscount24.de/durchlauferhitzer/…

Your heater is a three-phase load, most likely with the heating elements connected between the phases.

I'm not an expert on german wiring practices, but my guess would be that your heater has developed a short circuit in one of the elements, said fault blew out the fuse supplying one of the phases and is now back-feeding said phase. Whether said fuse is your responsibility or your electricity suppliers responsibility I could not say.

I would advise against operating the heater until it has been inspected by a competent service technician and the supply fault has been rectified.


You are always allowed to use larger wire than is required.

The breaker must be appropriate for the load.  If you're upsizing wire, don't upsize the breaker too!

NEC 110.3b requires you install the equipment according to instructions, so if a 20A breaker is called out, a 20A breaker it is!

The instructions call out 12 AWG wire.  Upsizing wire is always OK, so #10 wire is just fine on any part of the wiring run.

-

The only place instructions or labeling can deter a wire size bump is if the terminals are not rated for the larger wire.  Then you simply pigtail a short bit of the specified size wire (e.g. #12) and then splice it to the larger wire (e.g. #10) right there.

There are rules on junction box fill (number of wires) but pigtails are "free" in these rules.


Why do you consider a black to a white wrong?? The whole "black-to-black, white-to-white" is a wives tale and myth.

What you have is a switch loop, and is VERY common, especially in 50's and 60's homes.

The white from the panel goes to the white from the fixture. This is the neutral.
The black from the panel goes to the white from the switch. This is the feed.
The black from the switch goes to the black from the fixture. This is the switched hot.

Modern codes do require that the white to the switch get re-marked with a hot color (typically black, red or blue) with a permanent method such as paint, a permanent marker or even tape.


What do you call conventional wood staining that doesn't result in a glazed effect?

I'm not sure there is a term that exists for cabinets without glaze. As you mention, this effect is really popular right now, and it's going to be difficult to find non-glazed cabinets from a big box retailer.

You could try working with a dedicated cabinetmaker and express your interest in some non-glazed examples.

To others who are confused by the question. Glaze is not a stain. After a stain is sealed, a glaze can be added (to add highlights, shadows), which is then sealed again under the finish of choice (e.g. polyurethane).

One can buy glaze, or they can make their own by mixing acrylic paints (the dye) and some sort extender (e.g. paint thinner and linseed oil, or clear acrylic glazing liquid).


Do you have any part of pull chain left in the old switch, even if you need to use tweezers or something to use it?  If you do, then you could use a continuity tester or volt-ohm meter and test how the switch is working when the chain is pull through its cycles. That is, see which wires let voltage through (and it may be more than two at a time).

To me, "L" should be the hot voltage in to the switch, while 1-3 should be power to the fan.

If you can not test the switch directly, perhaps this article will shed some light.

http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/ceiling-fan-pullchain-replacement-and-repair.php


Where to install an atmosphereic vacuum breaker for my fire pit spigot

I have always put a vacuum breaker at the faucet. It would be silly to put it at the house, the water would drain from the line every time turned off if properly installed. The vacuum breaker prevents a hose from sucking up ground water contaminating the supply. So as long as the breaker is at the faucet or part of the faucet and it is higher than the outlet you would meet the reason for the vacuum breaker in towns I have lived That were connected to city water this met there requirements.


Extending branch circuit to outdoor shed and additional exterior outlets

The existing circuit doesn't comply with Code in the first instance...
The one Code issue with your plan is that the existing circuit you're trying to tap from doesn't conform with the NEC to begin with.  In particular, it violates NEC 210.52(B) because (B)(1) requires that the kitchen small appliance branch circuits not only feed the kitchen countertops, but any wall receptacles available in the kitchen space, and (B)(2) prohibits any outlet other than that required by (B)(1) from being put on a kitchen small appliance branch circuit.
As a result of this, I'd make sure that the O4 feed is sourced from the S1 junction box so that a new homerun can be brought to S1 in the future, at least partially rectifying the violation.  (O1-O3 will also need to get rewired with 12AWG in order to fully correct things, but that can wait until an appropriate time.)
And you don't want to skimp on the conduit, either
Other than that, your plan looks reasonable, save for some issues with conduit sizing and parts.  We start at J1, where your plan to use a junction box there is foiled by the fact PVC weatherproof junction boxes don't come with side entries.  I'd instead bring the conduit directly down from the O4 box, then use either a 90° prefab sweep or a pair of 45° prefabs to kick the conduit over to where it needs to be to line up with the pillar and shed properly.
Once that's out of the way, we get to J2, which is also an issue because you can't stick any old junction box in the ground and get away with it.  Instead, you'll want to use a molded plastic handhole at J2 with the conduits entering from the bottom and a set of direct burial rated splices inside.  Alternatively, you could align the conduit so it comes up directly into S2 and then run conduit from S2 to O5/S3; this gets rid of the handhole at the cost of a slightly larger offset in the conduit run.
As to the size of the conduit, your prime constraint is going to be a tradeoff between future expandability out to the shed and getting things that'll fit.  I'd at the very least bury two 1" PVC conduits, or perhaps a 1" and a 1.5", so that there's a way to run a communications line to the shed in the future without tearing up the yard.  The switched-hot to O6 won't be an issue in this case, either, by the way; the only time it will become an issue is if you're pulling a feeder through for the shed, at which time you can evaluate your options.
Running a larger conduit than 1" for the mains wiring right now, though, would require some serious work to get it out of the house and into the shed.  First off, PVC weatherproof extensions aren't a thing, so you'll have to use a cast-metal one with a PVC male adapter threaded into its bottom.  Furthermore, you can't fit a male adapter into a reducing bushing, so you'll want to use a "stub" nipple of PVC between the male adapter and the reducing bushing instead.  Finally, you'd need to stack reducers if you tried to go up much beyond 1", and that may not work well with all designs of reducing bushings.
At the shed end, it depends on if you are using a light switch box or something more sophisticated for the disconnecting means there.  If you're using a light switch in a weatherproof box, then similar caveats apply save for the lack of a need for a male adapter since you can simply use a PVC box for the job instead.  Using a pullout disconnect spares you that hassle, though, and works better with multi-wire branch circuits if you wish to pull a MWBC to the shed in the future.
Finally, since this is California, where ground motion is to be expected, you'll want to put expansion joints in all your conduit stub-ups, so they don't fail completely if you get a bit of shakin' going on.


WEATHER-resistant GFCI's required in bathrooms?

Device instructions do not have any standing to decide what NEC does or does not say.

However, device instructions can, and do, make declarations about how the device itself may be used.  And these have the force of law.

  NEC 110.3(B)  Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

The instructions you quote, clearly defer to NEC as to the definition of "wet locations".

  100.1

  Location, Damp. Locations protected from weather and not subject to saturation with water or other liquids but subject to moderate degrees of moisture. Examples of such locations include partially protected locations under canopies, marquees, roofed open porches, and like locations, and interior locations subject to moderate degrees of moisture, such as some basements, some barns, and some cold-storage warehouses.

  Location, Wet. Installations underground or in concrete slabs or masonry in direct contact with the earth; in locations subject to saturation with water or other liquids, such as vehicle washing areas; and in unprotected locations exposed to weather.


How do you remove a Carrier / Bryant Infinity thermostat control from the wall?

It really will just pull straight off. (Just did it!)  No tools required. It feels tight but it seems designed to mount on/off this way.

(Encouraged to try that by this post).


Brown water briefly coming from hot water pipe in bathroom sink

My water heater eventually started leaking several months after I posted this question, so I can only assume that it was in fact due to corrosion on the inside of the tank that was a sign of things to come.  I've since gotten a new water heater installed, and my water has been fine.


Gap between house and wood deck -- to fill or not to fill?

Part of the reason why a floating deck "works" is that it is not attached to the house in any way. If you put in something that physically connects the deck to the house, even Great Stuff, you will end up with one of two possibilities:

Stays together when the deck moves

If the deck and the house stay together when the deck moves then you will be twisting the deck platform and/or supports, which is not a good thing and could lead to serious problems.

Does NOT stay together when the deck moves

If the deck and the house do not stay together when the moves, then the connection will break - which would mean your time/effort/$ would go to waste.

Floating decks move. That is why they are allowed to be built (in most places, up to a certain size) without a permit and also why they are specifically not to be attached to any fixed structure.

What can you do? I suggest adding a piece of wood trim to fill the gap but attach it only to the deck.


The black wires from switch to switch are power jumpers. The power is fed to the upper switch by the black wire on the top left. The jumpers then carry the power to the other two switches. The switches have an internal connection between the two terminals on the top edge of each switch.

The wires in the lower left terminal of each switch is the switched power to the each fixture.

In your new combination switch unit, there is a common power feed, eliminating the need for jumpers to the three individual switches. They are connected internally. You connect the incoming power, the black wire on the top left of the old switch, to the common. Then the three output wires from the old switches go to the three terminals on the right.

Many older switches lack a grounding terminal, which is now required on most new switches. If you have a ground in the box, it should be connected to the ground terminal of the new switch.

The new switch may or may not solve the don't work problem, but it's a good place to start. If it doesn't solve the problem, you need to find out what else is disconnected or non-functional.

Note: The incoming power wire looks like it might be 12 gauge. If so, you can't use the push-in connectors (they only work with 14 gauge), but must wrap the wire around the screw terminals (clockwise). Most practitioners consider this to be a better connection than push-ins, so you may wish to do this regardless of wire size.


Fire door modification beyond trim allowance

How likely is it that this would be signed off by Building Control?

Highly likely. The way you describe the carpenter's modification proposal it would likely not be easily detected.

If it was signed off, in the event of a fire, would we be covered by our insurance?

If they knew about your modification, no. However; unless the door in question contributed to the fire spread there would not likely be a close forensic analysis of the door, right?

If we rented the house, in the event of a fire, would we be liable?

You would be liable if the door failed to prevent fire spread as designed due to your modifications. Held accountable? See above.

If we sold the house, in the event of a fire, would we be liable?

You would be liable if the door failed to prevent fire spread as designed due to your modifications. Held accountable? See above.
I am not giving legal advice, and you should not trust legal advice from the internet. Deliberately violating building/fire code to make your job more convenient is not the right thing to do. If the worst happened, you and the carpenter and the inspector and the door manufacturer could be in court swearing oaths of truth. How would you feel if your renter's children were killed because the modified door failed to prevent fire spread?


Up-to-code install of under-cabinet electrical outlets

Plugmold or similar products are marked for use as a wireway and you can make joints inside them as long as they are accessible after they are installed.

Meaning you need to be able to take the cover off and access the connections.


How can I pass cables vertically through walls that contain fire blocking?

There are a variety of methods of fishing wires through walls.  The most crude being brute force with some cable types.  Coax can often easily be pushed down walls.

The most common way to fish cable is a fish tape:

(source: homedepot.com)

This is a flexible steel or fiberglass line that is wound up.  You extract it by holding the reel and pushing the handle.  To wrap it back up, you do the opposite motion.

In some cases (most often in drop ceilings) you can use rods to pass the cable around:

(source: homedepot.com)

If it is a short distance, the cheapest and easiest thing to use is a metal coat hanger.

With all methods, you feed it from one area to another and then pull the wire back out.  It doesn't usually matter what direction you go, but you will find that with some routes, approaching it from one direction is easier than the other.  If the route doesn't match up with how you are feeding the wire (ie: it is coming from one side, but for whatever reason you need to fish from the other), you can pull a temporary line (nylon string) through with the fish tape, and then pull the wire back through with the temporary line.

Plan your routes well using a stud finder and other visual hints.  If you are lucky you will only need two holes.  In some tough scenarios you might need to cut another hole to allow you to pull the wire through.

A flexible drill bit can also be useful:

(source: homedepot.com)


What thickness of closed cell spray foam should I use on my basement walls?

Closed cell foam typically has an R6 value (that's R6 per inch)

http://www.fomo.com/resources/technical-bulletins/opencellvsclosed.aspx

So 1" of foam would be R6.
2" of foam would be R12

I've lived near you - Wisconsin gets cold and stays cold - and in a basement the longer the ground stays cold the more thermal break you want. so frankly in your climate, I'd be looking for foam to completely fill between the joists with foam - 3.5" if you're using typical 2x4's - giving you closer to an R20.


How do I convert a LED PIR Light to a switched only light

I looked online for a schematic diagram (a picture might help but probably not) and I didn't find any with 2 brown and 2 black wires.

You should see if you could possibly replace the PIR with a direct replacement.

If you proceed to hack the light you risk making it unusable. Of course in its current condition that would be the case.

Without a schematic, my slightly educated guess would be, that if you cut the two brown wires and wire nut them together and then do the same with the black wires you will bypass the PIR. This is just a guess from the information you have posted. If it trips the breaker or the magical black smoke comes out of it, then you will know that was the wrong thing to do. Proceed at your own risk!

Good luck!


Plank vinyl flooring , the glue will not dry

I'm going to bet that you used a "mastic" based tile setting adhesive, which would have been the wrong type for a kitchen. Mastic is an organic compound (from a Mastic tree) and will re-liquefy with moisture. not only is it bad for kitchens and bathrooms, but if the concrete was not sealed, moisture can come up from below and continually re-liquefy your mastic, even if it has dried. If it was mastic based, you may need to pull everything up, clean it off and reapply with a waterproof acrylic based tile compound.


Can an electrician with 16th edition rules do work in anybody's home?

You can do work in people's houses, but you must certify your work to the current (Eighteenth) Edition of the Wiring Regulations. This is a legal requirement under part P of the Building Regulations in England. (Wales and Scotland have similar provisions.) The Wiring Regulations require either a Minor Works Certificate, or a Design Installation and Test Certificate for all wiring work.
If you carry out notifiable work such as installing new circuits, working in a kitchen, or installing a new consumer unit, in a dwelling then you must either notify the work to Building Control or be a member of a self-certification scheme such as NICEIC, NAPIT etc.

If you notify the work to Building Control they may require the certificates to be completed by a person with a current qualification. If you wish to apply to be a member of a self-certification scheme they will require you to have current qualifications or to be supervised by a qualified supervisor.

Small jobs which are non-notificable must still be certificated by you to the current Regulations and the certificate supplied to the customer. Forms of certificates are prescribed by the regulations and samples are available from IET.

The above applies to dwellings (including outbuildings and gardens). If you are working in non-domestic buildings then the notification requirement does not apply, but the Electricity at Work Regulations do (they would apply to you as a worker, and to your client as a business) and they would require a person to be competent. Evidence of competence is your qualification. For some work a 16th Edition qualification may remain satisfactory evidence of competence, for others it will not. For example, the Eighteenth Edition requires consideration of surge protection in designing an installation, and requirements for RCDs to all sockets and all concealed wiring even in permitted zones has changed since 16th Edition expired in 2004.


How long should I wait to turn on the water, after gluing my pipes together?

30 degrees Fahrenheit is a bit cold for happy PVC gluing, IMHO. You might want to apply some (non-open flame, given the solvents) heat to the joint before gluing and while it's curing. Also be absolutely sure that the pipe is dry, or else use the "damp-tolerant" PVC glue (usually blue.)

A temperature range of 40-100 degrees F is recommended by the glue manufacturer They note that it is possible to get a strong joint below freezing, but that extended time is required. If you can safely heat it, do. 6 hour cure time is specified for your pipe size and temperature; that can be shortened to an hour above 60F (assuming water pressure is below 180 PSI....)

I do seriously question using PVC at all in hot water service - that's what CPVC is made for, and I have personally used hot water to bend PVC pipe. If you can borrow the tools from someone, I'd actually look into replacing as much of it as is easily accessible with PEX, these days.


What flushmate unit will fit my kohler toilets?

These are the Kohler models that a Flushmate will fit:

Kohler
Worldwide
BARRINGTON™ PRESSURE LITE®  K-3578  Two-Piece   Elongated Raised Rim    Floor Mount, Rear Outlet

Kohler
Worldwide
HIGHLINE® PRESSURE LITE®    K-3519  Two-Piece   Elongated Raised Rim    Floor Mount, Floor Outlet

Kohler
Worldwide
SAN RAPHAEL™ COMFORT HEIGHT™ PRESSURE LITE® K-3597  One-Piece   Elongated Raised Rim    Floor Mount, Floor Outlet

Kohler
Worldwide
WELLWORTH® PRESSURE LITE®


Unscrew stuck shower head with circular section

WD40 may not be the best solvent for the job.  A solvent that's made mainly to loosen screws, like Liquid Wrench or B'Laster, may work better, but they also might not work too well against the residues that build up on plumbing.

Soaking the head in a cleaner made to dissolve calcium, lime, and rust, like CLR, or vinegar, with this trick (saw it on Lifehacker)

may loosen things that the others don't.  You fill a bag with cleaner and tape it onto the showerhead to let it soak.

You can grab the pipe with whatever wrench is handy, but the right wrench will grab more securely.  A pipe wrench

will grab it for sure, but it will bite into the metal and leave a visible mark.

A strap wrench

will grab without marring, but the surface needs to be dry and clean - any wd40 residue would need to be cleaned off.

There are some cheap rubber strap wrenches available

Both types, strap wrenches and pipe wrenches only work in one direction - you'll figure out which way, just be aware of that.


Isolating a workstation located in an open space office

Why not just put up sound barrier screens around the noisy desks. To make this work you will have to, as a minimum, keep it to one person per desk and where desks are adjacent move them apart enough to allow the barrier screens to stand in between the desks.

Here are a couple of possible examples:


How to remove a nail from inside a kitchen exhaust fan shroud?

When all else fails, brut force. I'm assuming you don't want to reinstall this fan so try going up in the attic and beating it out with a 2x4, forcing it down into the kitchen. You'll probably bend the nail holding it in and the shroud should slide down and out..... Good luck.


What is the purpose of this pole [bollard] in my garage?

This is to protect vehicles from damaging gas appliances that lie beyond. This is a code requirement in many jurisdictions, probably including yours, as most builders don't do anything they don't have to.


You have grounds in the boxes.
So.

Buy two 14-30Rs
remove the 10-30Rs
connect the 14-30Rs
Smash the 10-30Rs with a hammer so they don't get re-used
place in trash or recycling.

Per comment about "3-wire compressor & welder": alternatively L6-30R Plus L6-30P for the cords, and cap the neutral while connecting the ground.
Outlet looks like a NEMA 10-50 but is only stamped at 30


How to fix broken screw hole in ceiling box? (re: ceiling light fixture; how to replace the box?)

The box up there is similar to the one below.

If you have attic access, you can remove the old box and replace it fairly easy.
If you don't have access, then you'll have to cut the tabs the nails are in so you can remove the box. Be very careful not to cut the wires going into the box. A keyhole saw or hack saw blade with a handle works great. Once the box is out, you can get a ceiling box that screws right into the stud where the old box was.


Concrete sealant vs spraying to cure a concrete slab

All of those methods do the same thing.
The sealant method is done one time, no additional sealant needed.
The water spray method needs to be done regularly, maybe every hour or so. The dam method has time involved for making the dam, but does not need to be maintained as much as water spray.
All these methods are done only after the last troweling is done and the surface will not be disturbed by anything placed on top of the concrete.


Is it safe to put drain cleaner down a dishwasher?

That is not a good idea
I would definitely NOT put drain cleaner (any type, but especially caustic drain cleaner such as sodium hydroxide) inside any equipment - e.g., dishwasher, washing machine (laundry), disposal. Drain cleaner should only go directly into drain pipes. Drain cleaning chemicals are designed to interact with and dissolve accumulated hair, grease and dirt in some manner (the exact method depends on whether it is a caustic cleaner or enzyme based or something else). Drain cleaning chemicals are NOT designed to clear out "foreign objects" (classic example is a toy down the toilet, but this can also include other things such as small pieces of plastic or metal that ended up in the dishwasher drain)
The general process is to figure out if the problem is in equipment or in the pipes. Disconnect the equipment from the drain pipes. In the case of a dishwasher that is normally by detaching a flexible hose from the dishwasher. If you think there is a clog in the pipes, ideally disconnect any flexible and/or easily removable parts (in the case of a dishwasher, disconnect the hose from the sink/disposal end and do any serious drain cleaning (snake, drain cleaning chemicals, etc.) starting at the sink trap (preferably AFTER the sink trap if it can be removed easily) and definitely after the disposal.
Assuming that the pipes are clear (either clogged and now clear, or tested by running large volumes of water from the sink and determining that there is no problem), then the problem is in the equipment. That can be a problem with a pump, with drain line configuration (dishwasher requiring high hose loop or air gap but instead having a straight hose) or something broken/blocked inside the equipment. If there is something broken inside the equipment then drain cleaner would only make it harder to fix. If there is something blocked inside the equipment then it is unlikely (though not impossible) that it is something that drain cleaning chemicals can fix. More likely it will be plastic or metal which may be affected somewhat by drain cleaner - but the dishwasher parts themselves (pumps, fittings, etc.) can ALSO be affected, negatively, by drain cleaner. Drain cleaning chemicals have the big advantage of working, to paraphrase Einstein, as "spooky action at a distance", but that is not an advantage for a dishwasher which is totally accessible.
Bottom line: Don't pour anything down a dishwasher not recommended by the manufacturer. Unlikely to fix anything and likely to break something else.


Your primary concern will be that you're putting a hole into the outside of your house that will let water (and bugs and, possibly other things) into your house. Therefore, it is critical that you ensure that when you're done, the hole is water tight. Water leaking into the wall, especially if it's a wood-framed house will lead to rotting out the sill and studs, and the cost to repair that in a few years will be much greater than that of going to the gym to do your pull-ups.

The second concern is to ensure that the bar can support significantly more than your weight. Any jerkiness in your pull ups (on the way up or down) will exert more force than just your weight. To this end, you need to ensure that you're attaching to a stud (if a framed house), or that you're attaching into something solid (if a brick or block) house. If you've got poured concrete walls, your only concern (once you have a hole drilled) is ensuring that you've got a solid connection (use proper concrete toggles). Also, consider that once you've got this handy bar right next to the house, that you (or someone else) may use it for hanging other things of considerably greater than human weight on.

An additional concern is that at some point you may want to leave the house. This would mean selling (I presume you're not renting or you'd be asking the landlord about this). Is the next person going to want a pull-up bar attached to the outside of his house? Sure, it could be removed, but then you've got the stub where it was cut off, or holes where screws/bolts were removed. Might not look all that pretty when you (or they) are done, and make it more difficult to sell.

You may consider mounting it to the cinder block wall like a towel bar instead of crossing the span between the house and wall.

Oh, yeah, one more thing... Is that cinder block wall yours to be drilling into? (Just checking...)


Can I use a receptacle and switch for a dishwasher and garbage disposal?

If you're using 12/3 with ground, non-metallic sheathed cable from the panel to the outlet, you'll have no problem doing what you want.
Materials:

20 ampere double pole combination GFCI circuit breaker.
20 ampere duplex receptacle.
Length of 12/3 with ground non-metallic sheathed cable.
20 ampere single pole single throw switch.
2x single gang boxes.

Procedure:
Pull the cable

Install a length of 12/3 cable between the switch box and the receptacle box.
Install a length of 12/3 cable between the receptacle box and the service panel.

Install the switch

Connect the Bare/Green grounding conductor to the Green grounding screw on the switch.
Connect the Red ungrounded (hot) conductor to the common switching terminals on the switch.
Connect the Black ungrounded (hot) conductor to the switched terminal on the switch.
Use a twist-on wire connectors rated for use with a single 12 AWG conductor to cap off the grounded (neutral) conductor.
Tuck all the wires into the box, and mount the switch.

Install the receptacle

Clip the tab connecting the upper and lower receptacles on the ungrounded (hot) side of the duplex receptacle.
Connect the Bare/Green grounding conductor to the Green grounding screw on the receptacle, and to the Bare/Green grounding conductor from the cable to the switch.
Connect the White grounded (neutral) conductor from the feeder, to one of the grounded (neutral) screw terminals on the receptacle.
Connect the White grounded (neutral) conductor from the cable to the switch, to the other grounded (neutral) screw terminal on the receptacle.
Connect the Black ungrounded (hot) conductor from the feeder to one of the ungrounded (hot) screw terminals on the receptacle.
Connect the Black Ungrounded (hot) switched conductor from the cable to the switch, to the other ungrounded (hot) screw terminal on the receptacle.
Using a twist-on wire connector rated for use with two 12 AWG conductors, splice the two Red ungrounded (hot) conductors together.

Install the breaker

Terminate the Bare/Green grounding conductor to the grounding bus bar.
Install the breaker in the panel (make sure it is in the OFF position).
Terminate the White grounded (neutral) lead from the breaker to the neutral bus bar.
Connect the White grounded (neutral) conductor from the circuit to the neutral terminal of the breaker.
Connect the Black ungrounded (hot) conductor to one of the ungrounded (hot) terminals on the breaker.
Connect the Red ungrounded (hot) conductor to the other ungrounded (hot) terminal on the breaker.

Turn on and test the GFCI breaker

Switch the breaker to the ON position.
Press the TEST button on the breaker.
Switch the breaker back to the ON position.

If the breaker will not switch on, there is a ground-fault, the wiring is wrong, or the breaker is bad.  Detect and correct the fault, and reset the breaker.
tl;dr
Here is an image showing what the finished circuit should look like.

Click for larger view
NOTES:

If using metal boxes, make sure to bond them to the grounding system.
You can also use 12/2 with ground, but you might find that if both devices are run simultaneously, the breaker might trip.


Home water pressure consistently exceeds 150 PSI

From the comments, it appears the PRV failed, likely with a slow leak on the valve. A good way to test for this is to shutoff the hot water tank, close all valves in the house while monitoring pressure over time. If the pressure slowly climbs even without the hot water heater running then replacing the PRV would be my next step.


How do I troubleshoot a dishwasher that runs normally until wash cycle begins, then doesn't wash?

My dishwasher was stopping similarly and it turned out that there wasn't enough water pressure. Simply opening the water valve feeding the dishwasher resolved the problem.

It doesn't sound like this is your problem, but it's a very simple thing to check that the valve is fully open, and it might help someone reading this page in the future.


Is an exhaust fan over a gas range required?

Yes, and not only do you need a fan but it must exhaust outside and not just recirculate the air through a carbon filter.  You are burning fossil fuels which produces carbon monoxide (among other things).  This can kill you if not properly vented.

Rather than repeat what is already on this site, per the comments, see this answer for the exact code requirements for exhaust hoods.


GFCI From previous 120v double oven vs. a different GFCI for new 240v double oven

Electric ovens take an enormous amount of power and that cannot possibly be delivered through common outlets.

Be prepared to hire an electrician to run a new set of heavy duty cables from your breaker panel to the oven location.

If your oven is in a standard location, the correct cables might already be present, just unused.   Also, sometimes when a conversion to gas is done, the old heavy cabling is converted for use with the normal socket.  Perhaps the GFCI you now see actually has the correct, heavy cabling behind it.

Your oven cannot use  a GFCI receptacle. However, with certain older wiring configurations, which lack a safety ground, you would be wise to fit a GFCI circuit breaker to avoid a very dangerous situation where a routine wire failure could electrify the chassis of the oven.