Is a conventional interior drain tile system likely to silt up over time?

In my area conventional drain tile loops are used extensively. They often use "sleeved" pipe, which has the silt sock you mentioned. They generally work well, assuming that they're not crushed by concrete work or careless backfilling.

If you have extremely smooth clay-like soil, silt may be a concern. The microscopic grains in clay can make their way through the sock over time. Otherwise, you won't see much silt at all after the first season or two. My sump water runs completely clear after heavy rains, as do most others I've witnessed. This is anecdotal information, of course, and your results may vary.

In short, I wouldn't be concerned about using a sleeved "conventional" drain tile loop, assuming that you haven't heard horror stories from a bunch of folks in your immediate area.

I don't know of anyone who has needed more than one sump pump. If you find that yours is running more than say 10% of the time, it might be wise, but that's something you can evaluate later. It's really a matter of risk tolerance.


How to diagnose and fix apartment AC that makes intermittent whooshing noise

"If I remove remove the filter on the offending side, it doesn't
  happen."

This tells us that it is an Airflow Issue and the culprit is in the filter mechanics.

I am guessing you recently changed filters - perhaps to a new brand or type. Is the filter installed in the correct direction of Airflow - an Arrow on the side should point the way..

I am thinking your filters are the wrong type. The filter is not allowing enough flow (apparently a tight fit) and as the suction (vacuum) builds up the filter moves and eventually it is in a position to allow more air flow and you get the whooshing sound of air passing either around the filter or surprisingly through it.

You can verify the filter brand and type recommendations of your unit - or compare to non offending side - perhaps non-offending side fits loosely and offending side fits more tightly in the filter slots..??


Should solar thermal collectors always be cycling fluid at maximum speed?

In some mythical world where nothing else mattered, pumping your working fluid at maximum speed does limit the temperature rise of the collector surface, which limits the re-radiation of heat from the collector (re-radiated heat is not collected, thus, lost.)
The simplistic theory is that raising 11 pounds or kilos of air or water 0.1 degree is more heat collected than raising 1 pound or kilo of air or water 1 degree. And that's true, in itself.
Like most "purely theoretical and ignoring large parts of reality for the sake of a simple theory" analyses this falls down hard in the face of all that stuff being ignored because it's complicated, in reality.
The 400 mile or kilometer per hour blast out of your "nearly ideal, but perhaps it could be 500 or more" solar air collector will be very unpleasant to live with, deafening, and cost more to run than having no solar collector and just putting that power into a cold climate heat pump. The churning vortex the water version will turn your pool into will probably waste a lot of heat to excess evaporation, and drown swimmers in your pool.
Finding the happy sane point is engineering, and it's not overly simple, because it deals with the real world issues like power to run fans/pumps, efficiency of heat transfer and all that stuff.


I personally would use pc-11 epoxy.
Drain and dry the tank, sand the area around the crack. Than mix up the epoxy using craft sticks and spread it over the sanded area. You can build up a few layers if necessary but pc-11 is pretty solid with just 1 relatively thin coat... Should be able to hold water in minutes but I would let it cure overnight for maximum adhesion


How can I build a support onto a stud in order to support a handrail?

You can install one or more handrail brackets under the railing and line them up directly with the studs. You should be able to find them at any hardware store:

Alternatively, yes, you can open the wall and install a nailer (2x4 installed horizontally between the studs), but this will require some plaster or drywall patching and painting. I would fix the nailer in place with screws to minimize the vibration that may cause more damage to the surrounding drywall. To avoid opening the wall up too much, I'm guessing you'll end up going in at an angle from the front and bottom of the nailer into the stud. It would be better to go in from the opposite side of the stud, but that would result in a lot more wall to repair (you want any joints to be on a stud).


Some ideas on how to block a wheel on a metallic rod?

Use a hacksaw (or just a hacksaw blade if you don't own a hacksaw) to make a groove all around the rod. If you had a small electric grinder (Dremel or similar) that would also be an option, but the hacksaw will work and is a hand tool.

Use an "E-clip" in the groove (perhaps with a washer towards the wheel, first.)


Will an outlet adapter installed in a motion sensor light be constantly hot?

If I understand correctly, you'd like to screw a plug adapter into one of the bulb sockets on your flood light. If so, here are the caveats that come to mind:

The outlet will only be live when the adjacent bulb is lit. It would use the same electrical contacts that the bulb would.
There will be a current limitation that you could easily violate by plugging other devices into the light socket. The socket and its connected wiring are designed only for the current load of light bulbs up to the maximum listed wattage. In the case of a 75 watt flood lamp, that's less than one amp. The wiring may be fine up to say 5 amps, but we can't know for sure, and you open yourself up to smoky outcomes if someone else comes along and plugs a table saw into it.

In general, it's not a good idea. Used with caution, it could work for a short run of holiday lights, for example, without issue.


Do I have to use Kerdi tape with Ditra membrane?

"Schluter®-KERDI is a pliable sheet-applied waterproofing membrane and vapor-retarder designed for the direct application of tile. KERDI is ideal for use in tiled showers, bathtub surrounds, residential steam showers, and other tile applications in wet areas." Schluter Kerdi

I would consider Kerdi tape or membrane to be overkill anywhere outside a shower. Ditra is indeed waterproof, but its primary purpose is to serve as an uncoupling membrane, which prevents movements in the subfloor from cracking tiles. The tile and grout are intended to create a water resistant barrier sufficient for keeping drips and spilled water on the surface long enough to be addressed with a mop or towel. If you want to be thorough with your bathroom install, make sure you seal your grout or invest a little more in a urethane grout like CBP Fusion Pro.


How can I repair kitchen counters that are disintegrating?

If this is the only area that's being damaged then you could try screwing some stainless steel sheeting beneath it to act as a heat and steam shield from the dishwasher.

You'll need to make sure that the very edge of the steel is not exposed so make sure it doesn't protrude out.  And you may need to put some epoxy or similar right to the edge to stop the steam penetrating the wood at that spot.  Then sand it all round to make it nice and smooth.  It might work, short of replacing the benchtop with something more sturdy.


Outdoor three way switch and outlet on light pole GFI

One way to add GFCI protection for the outdoor lights and receptacle would be to use a GFCI breaker for the circuit.  This will protect everything on the circuit, if there's anything else on it.

That may be a bonus, or may be a problem if you don't want GFCI protection on some of what's on that circuit.  For example, if the sump pump in your basement is on that circuit, a nuisance GFCI trip could prevent the pump from working and you wind up with a flooded basement.

Another way would be to add GFCI protection anywhere between the panel and where the cable leaves the house.  One way to do that would be to add a GFCI receptacle anywhere between the panel and the inside three way switch, maybe somewhere in the basement where the cable feeding the inside 3-way switch is accessible.  The receptacles have LINE and LOAD side connections;  you'd connect the LINE side to the power feed coming in, and the LOAD side to the outside lights etc. downstream.  Depending on the routing of the circuits wiring, other loads, etc., other loads may be affected as with a breaker.  If you install the GFCI receptacle right where the circuit comes out of the panel, it will affect all loads as would a GFCI breaker.  If you install it where the cable to the pole exits the basement, it would only protect what's outside.

Another way would be to add a gang to the switch box and put a dead front GFCI in the switch box.  I like this method because people can see the dead front right next to the switch if it trips and not have to think too hard.


There is a brown burn mark on my dryer's vent

No. burn marks are not normally seen on dryer vents. If the scorched mark was caused by excessive heat from the dryer (and not by an unrelated incident) then there is a potential hazard and danger from your appliance. Without more details and photos it will be difficult to offer a specific reason, but these are some suggestions that you can check. After unplugging the dryer cord remove the exhaust duct attached to the rear of the back wall. Using a flashlight peer inside looking for critical build up of lint. Use a vacuum, regardless of what amount of lint is noted, to clean the dryer vent. Continue vacuuming the duct projecting from the back wall of the dryer. Re-install the vent and check for normal operation. If you still have any doubts to the normal and safe operation of your appliance it would be wise to have a professional inspect it and give you his opinion before using it again.


Replacing pool pump/plumbing etc. that is below the level of the pool

Use gravity, all you need is a garden hose! If the pool is raised up on a deck or above surrounding areas, then you can siphon it out. This is exactly the same way fish tank owners get water out of their tanks.
First get a garden hose that is long enough to end up in an area lower than the desired depth. Put the hose completely in the pool so it fills with water. Then seal both ends with either a clamp or a thumb, but make sure it is SEALED. Then take one end to the lower area and unclamp. Then wait for the water level to be lower than the plumbing.

(source: richmondaquarium.com)


If the table was varnished, then the applied oil will not have penetrated and could be removed with a rag soaked in mineral spirits. Don't use more volatile solvents as they could soften or damage your varnish. Afterwards, wipe clean with a separate damp cloth to remove all traces of the oil and spirits.


Should I remove existing subfloor sheathing before increasing height of the floor system?

You've asked one specific question here, and I'll start by answering that: No. Unless you have a particular reason to do so, do not bother removing the existing OSB.

From there I'd say your plan is reasonable. Running the 2x4s perpendicular should pose no problem, as they're supported every 2 feet. They'll span that with no detectable sag. Be sure to butt join them over joists.

Rather than two expensive layers of 3/4" OSB, though, I'd rip 2x6 lumber to the appropriate height so that you can use just one layer of t&g OSB as the new subfloor. This mitigates the overload risk, too.

Note: I assume that you've had the roof system inspected for use as a living space (or even for storage). With 2x8 bottom chords I assume that either 1) it's a very long span, or 2) it was designed for use as such. That's a critical point here.


A typical air conditioner will cycle the compressor on/off based on the thermostat setting. Typically that means:

Run for a long time initially to get the room down to the set temperature - that can sometimes take hours
Cycle on/off with on times anywhere from (rough guess) 15 minutes to 1 hour. Longer on times, after initially reaching the set temperature, would indicate either a real hot spell or an undersized unit.

Short times - e.g., < 1 minute - are an indication of something very wrong. Every on/off cycle is wear & tear on motors and other components. Ever see the lights dim for a few seconds when your A/C starts? That's because the power draw to start the compressor can be significant. If you have a "start" every minute or so, that will lead to premature failure. If you have a "stop" every minute or so with the system restarting again - as you have described - then it sounds like something is overheating which shuts down the compressor, then it cools and restarts again very quickly. Not normal - and not good for the unit or for keeping you cool.

Since you just bought it, I suggest a call to GE to find out what might be the cause and to ask for a warranty repair if needed. If this were an old unit then I'd recommend checking filters and other types of problems.


Ice maker control arm front slot location?

Location can be located via a photo. Well placed quality image can be handle by taking a selfie with a phone so that location in image, focus and lighting can be easily improved. Then the additional info like the fact that the hole is actually a slot will allow for moving the wire into the correct rotation along with the point of contact identified by relation to angled indent and protruding circle. With this knowledge and confidence in the positioning force can be tried and found to be needed.

fixer1234 hand mirror suggestion provoked the solution. A mirror in such close quarters with bifocals is problematic.


Can I cut a hole in the brick to install a through the wall air conditioner in a basement?

Cutting a hole in your foundation almost always requires an engineer, and is almost never a do-it-yourself project.

You'll need an engineer, to tell you how to carry the load around the opening. And you'll likely need tools and knowledge you don't have, to actually cut the hole.


The previous owner was using it as either an improvised water tempering device, or to use the cold water line for a hot water circulating pump.

Either situation only makes sense if the ball valve has an internal check valve. A check valve only allows water to flow in one direction. It will probably say that it is a check valve on the ball valve, also showing an arrow showing which way it allows water to flow.

If it only allows flow towards the hot line, then it's a improvised water tempering device. If you only open the valve a little bit, you can make your hot water a little less hot to prevent scalding.

If it only allows flow towards the cold line, then it's for the hot water circulating pump. You can circulate the hot water so that you don't have to run the hot water for a long time for it to get hot, and often people use the cold water line for the return loop back to the water heater.


Should feather-edge lap siding be installed directly on sheathing or on furring strips?

It's really a matter of prerogative (which is why you get varied suggestions), but it sounds like you have your answer. You want to be "careful", which I interpret to mean you're willing to put in the extra expense and effort to get additional longevity. It might last 40 years instead of 30 if you let it breath.
In my experience, lap siding is installed directly over sheathing/house wrap. Wall shingles tend to be installed over strips, but that's because they tend to let more water through all the extra joints. Your mileage may vary.


Relocating a single household service panel

I had something this done at my old house. If I understand what you're saying you want what we would call the electrical meters to be moved which requires the electrical mains for the whole house to moved and made longer.

Our electrician simply put in a large junction box and added extra cable.  This is something I would think that a home handyman would not be permitted to do by himself.  Dealing with live mains wires that cannot be disconnected with a switch is dangerous when you're not trained.  Call in an expert and get them to advice and do the work.


How can I clean out a dryer vent which exits under my backyard deck?

I used a leaf blower last year to blow the lint out of my dryer vent. It worked like a charm.


What could be causing an A/C blower motor to turn off randomly?

I ended up calling a buddy of mine who is an HVAC tech and he pointed me in the right direction to check the fan wire on the back of the thermostat. I checked the wire and it was just hanging in the terminal. I'm pretty sure that was the cause of the problem. It makes sense because there wasn't anything wrong with the blower motor itself.

The fan wire on the thermostat was in fact the problem. I fixed the connection and it has worked fine for the last 3 years.


What's the best/easiest way to install and wire a wall light?

If you want them to turn on and off at the same time, yes, it's fine.  If the floor above you is an attic, the job is relatively easy, otherwise call an electrician to do it.

You'll have to find a way to access the wires that go into the ceiling lights.  Once you find them, turn off the breaker, and get some appropriately sized wire nuts to combine all of the wires together, including the new 12 AWG wires for the wall lights.  You will need wire strippers and 3 wire nuts and combine the following together: hot (typically black), neutral (white), and ground (green.)  There may be more wires involved, but at the very least, you will have the 3 wires in each of the 3 colors -- one wire coming from the breaker box (aka service panel), one wire going to the existing ceiling light fixture, and one wire for your new wall fixture.

Use a sheetrock knife to make the needed hole in the wall for the wall light.  Then you can drill an extremely small (i.e. 1/8th-inch) drill bit into the ceiling above the fixture (assuming that the floor above is the attic) to let you know where the wall light is.  Then go into the attic, remove insulation where you think the drill bit is, and then find it.  Once it's found, drill a larger hole (3/8 to 1/2-inch) in the top plate (diagram) and feed the wall light wires into the hole.  Once you feed enough wire into the hole to reach the opening that you've cut into the wall, fish them out.  Cut the wires for the new wall light to an appropriate length, keeping in mind that you'll need extra length since it won't be going in a straight line and that you need extra length to make the wire nut connections.  Secure the wires with staples... no, not the ones in your office stapler... ask at HDepot/Lowes/etc. if you can't find them.

From there, it is simply a matter of stripping the last inch or so of each wire, making the electrical connections (see instructions that came with the fixture), attaching the fixture to the wall (see instructions), and then turning on the breaker.  Use wall putty to close up the tiny hole that you made in the ceiling.

Disclaimer: Unfortunately no guarantees can be made that the installation will be completely safe if you follow these instructions since I am forced to make assumptions and unforeseeable problems may exist that I have not thought of.  I am not responsible for any consequences that arise or any inaccuracies in these instructions (especially since you live in the UK, not the US.)  Hire an electrician if you want to be able to sue someone!


Which mounting screws to use for Ikea Hoppvals?

There is much info  on how to mount blinds on the internet.

This type of blind USUALLY  mount inside the window casing ,to the top of the window casing which is typically wood. If so then 1"  wood screws would be sufficient to deal with the weight of of the blinds and the mechanical forces of pulling them down.

BUT the photo on the IKEA site seams to indicate that the bracket is mounted to the wall, If this is how you will be mounting them ( and your wall is made of drywall ) then you you need to know if there is structure in the wall at the mounting location. If there is structure, stud or header etc,  then any good wood screw ( at least 1 1/4" ) will work. If not you will need a toggle anchor to deal with the forces involved.

I prefer Toggler anchors.

As manassehkatz says, you need to know what your wall is made of in order to know how to proceed.


How can I attach plywood window covers without damaging the trim or shingles?

How about permanently mounting lift-off hinges or something similar to the window frames, and using the mating part on the plywood to secure the boards to the windows?


Can I use a "universal" flush valve (or different brand) in my Kohler toilet?

It depends on the configuration of the flush valve. If it's the type with a 3-4 inch plastic tube that when lifted allows water to flush than you need to use that specific valve type from Kohler. If not and the valve is mounted through a standard (3/4 inch +/-) opening to the supply line you should be able to swap in any valve with minor adjustments to the lift handle and flapper. Post a photo of the Kohler valve.


How to mill a spiral groove in aluminium without a milling machine or lathe

Scribe out the groove you need to make first.
Use the drill to drill out the bulk of the material.

Finish the groove with a dremel. Since its aluminum you can also use a file and chisel to remove the material by hand.


Best method up to code to project an existing electrical outlet to a interior media built in cabinet face 3 1/2" farther out

You'll have to move the electrical box

You can't entrap an electrical junction box behind built-in furniture like that.  Every box cover must be accessible without tools (obviously you need a screwdriver to remove the box cover itself, but those are the only screws you are allowed to turn).

Further, you cannot splice anywhere but a junction box, and again, junction boxes must be accessible.

So lining up the framing of the cabinet with the electrical box is not really an option. The framing must move, or the box must move.

If you have a flat space on your built-in cabinet that aligns with the existing box, you could just stack box extensions to get where you need.


Get a wiring tester and verify the GFCI outlet is wired correctly.
Swap out he 20A AFCI breaker for a standard 15A or 20A breaker and then see if the GFCI outlet works after that.
Use a multimeter at the GFCI outlet to see if the voltage is in the expected range.
Post photos of wiring at all locations so we can better help you.


Where can I find straps or hangers to secure/support FMC?

UL-listed straps/hangers that accommodate the diameter requirements for FMC (refer to table 9.0 from UL 1 Ed 11.0 quoted below) and pull strength of greater than 228N (refer to UL 2239 Ed. 2.0 Section 7.4 quoted below) should be able to be used to secure and support FMC. Many UL-listed electrical cable ties (i.e. "zip ties") will meet these requirements.

Also, if you're looking for something a little sturdier, you should be able to use straps/hangers double-listed for EMT/RMC. It's still best to double-check with your inspector before starting work because they are technically not listed for FMC. However, it is easy to argue they meet the requirements for FMC based on the following information:

The outer diameters of FMC are typically in between the outer diameter requirements for EMT and RMC per the applicable UL standards (see "UL 2239 Ed. 2.0 - Hardware for the Support of Conduit, Tubing, and Cable" below)
The pull strength requirements for FMC are lower than both EMT and RMC for all trade sizes (see "Standards for Dimensions of FMC, EMT, and RMC" below)

UL 2239 Ed. 2.0 - Hardware for the Support of Conduit, Tubing, and Cable

  UL 2239 Ed. 2.0 Section 7.4: "The force shall be as specified in Tables
  6 – 9 for HANGERS, STAPLES, and STRAPS intended to secure or support
  non-flexible conduits and tubing. For flexible conduits or tubing or
  cables, the force shall be 228 N (50 lbf) for all sizes."

Below is a summary of what I found in the referenced tables 6-9 of UL 2239 Ed. 2.0 as force requirements to be listed as an EMT or RMC staple, strap, or hanger. Note: I list only the minimum force required which is always for the smallest trade size of EMT and/or RMC:

Table 6 - Pull force requirements and LOAD RATINGS for STAPLES and STRAPS: Minimum of 334 N for 1/2" EMT -- this exceeds the 228 N required to be listed for FMC.
Table 7 is the same as table 6, but in units of lbf instead of newtons.
Table 8 Pull force requirements for HANGERS": Minimum of 667 N for 1/2 EMT -- this exceeds the 228 N required to be listed for FMC.
Table 9 is the same as table 8, but in units of lbf instead of newtons.

Standards for Outer Dimensions of FMC, EMT, and RMC

It does appear to be true that the outer diameter of FMC does sit in between EMT and RMC as supported by the tables from the UL standards quoted below.

FMC - Relevant portion of Table 9.1 Internal and external diameters in inches from UL 1 Ed 11.0:

EMT - Relevant portion of Table 6.2 Dimensions and weight in USA customary units from UL 797A Ed 3.0:

RMC - Relevant portion of Table 5.1 Dimensions of ERMC-S from UL 6 Ed 14.0:


How would I seal the raw edges of particle board cabinets for protection against getting wet?

I've never done this, but certainly I can think of occasions where I have seen this kind of water damage on particle board furniture in kitchens.

I would consider waterproofing it by using a glue that will form a plastic-like layer to cover the exposed edges. PVA will work and is cheap and easy to apply, but isn't very hard wearing. An epoxy resin is a tougher alternative.

A quick Google to back up my intuition gives me:

http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/pvaadhesive.htm

Which states:

"Timber can be sealed with PVA to give it a waterproof quality, although if the surface of the timber is to be subject to any wear or traffic, then PVA, as it is an emulsion, will eventually fail."


What can I do about lead paint on fieldstone foundation walls?

The mortar is crumbling because of moisture seeping through the walls from the outside, not from the paint. That is a common problem with fieldstone foundations. See questions about how to remove crumbled mortar and what kind of mortar to use.

I would be very surprised if the fieldstone itself is actually crumbling. If so, you need a structural engineer that specialized in old foundations. Can you please post a picture? (If the system won't let you, upload it to imgur.com or somewhere else, and someone here can edit the picture into your question.)

Working with the crumbled mortar and peeling paint will probably require protective equipment because of the lead paint. See this related question. Bring in a specialist if you're unsure about how to protect yourself.


Assuming this is a cast-iron tub in decent condition below the surface, it can be refinished to look like new. Here's an article from This Old House that explains one process. There are likely vendors who will come to your house to refinish the tub, as well as DIY products. For any repair approach, it's vital to properly prepare the surface by removing the prior paint attempt, patching any deep scratches, and sanding thoroughly to ensure good bonding of the new enamel.


What is a good tutorial on the use of a multimeter?

I would recommend looking at the tutorial from SparkFun: How To Use a Multimeter.

It is a bit specific to the multimeter that they sell.


What's causing my washer to stop running during the wash cycle?

The machine is not emptying properly for some reason.  All washing machines are designed never to spin whilst full of water.  The default is either to pause indefinitely or reset the program.  It's odd that the machine is fine when empty though.

I would still do the following before calling out a repair company.

Check that it isn't blocked or partially blocked.  If the machine has a service panel at the base then it might have a round filter dial that when turned comes out of the machine (plus old baby socks, coins etc).  Make sure to grab loads of old towels and put them around the base of the machine before doing this.  The machine might have several litres of water or more still in it.  If you can see water inside the machine then you will need a lot of towels when unblocking the filter... you have been warned ;)  Get a well insured friend to do it otherwise :D
Make sure that the grey waste hose at the back of the machine is not trapped.
Make sure that the grey waste hose is not higher than the machine or pushed too far into the drain pipe.  This can cause water to back up into the machine and complicate matters.
The machine might have a coin lodged in the pump or something similar.  Listen for any rattles when it is emptying.  You should at least hear a churning sound coming from the pump.
Give the door a push in case the lock is faulty and the clothing is pushing outward causing the lock to break a circuit.
Check that both Hot and Cold water are actually going into the machine.  If you have turned the Hot off at the wall and the machine has an economy mode then it is waiting for hot water.


How do I remove a rust stain from my granite counter top?

A product called CLR (Calcium, Lime & Rust remover) is really good at getting rust stains off tile, granite, concrete and toilets. It is available at most grocery stores in my area. make sure to rinse well after the stain vanishes (it works very quickly).


Is it allowable to have an electrical cable going into the attic through a soffit from outside?

1It is very wrong. You CANNOT have a cord passing through siding, walls, or any other finished structure/surface. For both code and safety reasons.
The receptacle MUST be outside. If it is close to the heat tape you'll just need to coil the cord up.

National Electrical Code 2011
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 400 Flexible Cords and Cables
I. General
400.8 Uses Not Permitted. Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables
shall not be used for the following:
(1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure
(2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended
ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
(3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings
(4) Where attached to building surfaces
Exception to (4): Flexible cord and cable shall be permitted to be
attached to building surfaces in accordance with the provisions of
368.56(B).
(5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above
suspended or dropped ceilings
(6) Where installed in raceways, except as otherwise permitted in this
Code
(7) Where subject to physical damage


Can anyone identify this outdoor faucet manufacturer from the mid 70's?

My experience has been that the brass body of the hose bib is almost always sound and that to try to remove it can lead to much more work than you are prepared for.  I think most plumbing or hardware stores will stock all the replacement parts you will need, including a kit to "dress" or smooth out the sealing surface where the washer closes against.  Also, seriously, look for an old guy like me in your neighborhood who has all the parts you'd need, to rebuild several spigots, and would be glad to share.


Can you put an electrical switch inside a walk-in closet according to NEC?

Code doesn’t specify a location for the light switch it can be inside or outside so a code reference is not available.
The only limit is the height at 6’7”
NEC 410 can get you started for luminaries and closets 410.16 in the closet then 410.48 general wiring but no requirement for the location.
More on switches in article 404 And again the height max is the only limit.


You may be able to remove the handle and expose a set screw that when loosened would allow the top of the mechanism to be removed.


C-wire help needed with Nest thermostat install

This is easy
Just land your blue wire on the Com 24V terminal on your air handler's control board and on the C terminal of your Nest.  (Don't worry about having two wires on one terminal on an HVAC-board terminal block -- they're designed to handle that.)


I want to add a receptacle to a circuit with a traveler

So if this is on a traveler circuit

Do you have two switches somewhere that controls that circuit ?

I think your logic about what you intend to do is fine. You will have a hot a neutral and a ground.

One of the things that looks off to me is that normally your switches have the traveler between them and not your luminary box. You would see here Two 4 wire romex's [red to red ]and then your 3 way power romex - perhaps you had two sconce lamp receptacles..


The only way to properly fix it is to redo that section of pipe.  Anything else is just a band aid that will likely fail in the near future.

The leak is probably worse than you think since drains are not under any pressure.  If you don't fix it, what will likely happen is that as the drain slowly clogs, the leak will get worse as  it has no where to go but out through the leak.


How Do I Plan for an Intrusion Detection System?

Note, I'm not anywhere near an alarm professional, however I have installed a couple systems before and have just recently been researching again as I prepare to move into a new house where I'd like to install an alarm.

Keypads

You'll want a keypad anywhere you normally enter/exit the house, such as by the garage door or back door. As @bib points out, you may also want one in the master bedroom to be able to use panic, or see status of the system.

Window Contacts

Whether contacts on the windows are worthwhile depends on what you are trying to protect.

My opinion is it's better and easier to cover the areas with a motion sensor. If someone breaks the window, the alarm still goes off if they come in. If you want to leave a window open (normally you'd have to bypass the zone to arm) you're still covered.
The caveat to this is for "stay" arming. Typically when you're at home and arming the system, all the interior motion sensors are bypassed. If there is a window that is easily accessible from the ground floor, you may want a contact on it. For the second floor, it's probably not likely that someone is going to manage to get a ladder up to your house without either waking you up or making the neighbours suspicious so it's probably overkill there.

Glass breaks

Glass break sensors are another good way to cover likely intrusion points through windows where someone is going to smash it to get in. Patio doors and sidelights beside doors are good options. The sensor you quoted is actually an older style, most of the new ones are audio sensors that listen for the sound of breaking glass and work in anywhere from a 10 to 25' radius (depends on the glass, check specs). You can get these combined with motion sensors as well.

Glass break sensors are good for "stay" arming (when motion sensors are bypassed) or if you want early warning. In most cases, a motion sensor is going to alarm even if the glass break doesn't.

Motion Sensors

I would probably put motion sensors in:

top-right corner of family room - covers windows at the back
somewhere in entry way (a 360-degree ceiling-mounted would work well) - covers anyone moving through the main area of the house and using the basement stairs
top-right corner of basement - covers the basement windows

Of course you can put more if you want, but you need to think of what you're trying to protect from. If someone breaks in through, eg, the dining room, they are probably going to walk around and set off a motion somewhere. If you do have enough valuables in a room that someone may break in, steal everything from that room and leave, then you may want to put motion or some other sensor in there.

Siren

The siren should go somewhere it can be heard inside and out. Typically it's just installed in the basement near the alarm panel. You may also consider installing in the attic, or outside (you can get them with flashing lights too) so it's audible/visible to neighbours.

Panel protection

I am also a fan of installing protection around the alarm panel. Usually there is a 30-second delay to put in your code, and that may give someone enough time to get to the panel and disable/disconnect it. If the panel is in its own room, put a door contact on that room and otherwise put a motion sensor in there. Either way that zone should be set up as instant -- even if the system is in the delay entry mode, activating either of those zones should instantly alarm the system. Normally interior zones are bypassed while in delay entry.

This is also a consideration for motion sensor placement -- you can set up the motion sensors so if you were to walk into eg, the living room without disarming first, the alarm would go off. You just have to carefully consider placement here, and ensure that you don't set this up somewhere a person would normally walk before disarming.

Door lock sensor

I am considering my own system, and one neat thing I thought of (though apparently I'm not the first) was to put a plunge sensor in the back of the deadbolt channel, so that it can detect if the deadbolt on the door is locked or not. This may not be part of the alarm, but it can at least let you check the door is locked without getting out of bed or after you're already at work (assuming you have internet connectivity on the system). Unfortunately in my house there is a sidelight integrated into the door that prevents me from doing this.

Garage

You should consider how you use the garage. There are several ways to alarm it.

If you're not trying to protect the garage, it's pretty simple, though you may still want contacts on the doors to at least let you see if they're closed or not.

If you're using a wireless system with remotes, you can arm/disarm the system with those allowing you to exit from the alarm. If not, you need to ensure you have enough time to arm the system from a keypad, and get out of and close the garage doors before the system is done its arming countdown. This may mean putting a keypad in the garage, but again it depends on your use.

Fire

You should also put in some smoke/heat detectors. They can be wired into the alarm and thus monitored as well as setting of the siren (usually it does a different noise) in case of fire.

Monitoring

If you're going to have a company monitor the system, you need to ensure there is connectivity. At least this means a telephone line or internet connection. For telephone lines, a special jack (RJ31X) is used that allows the alarm to disconnect and take over the line, and so you need to route the main telephone line to the alarm panel before it goes to any other jacks in the house.

However you should also consider that someone may cut the line, and in that case communications is down. You can get GSM cellular options for communication that work around this.


I've built this desk twice. It costs me ~$100 USD in materials:

And here is my version of the desk:

You can adjust it, but it is a little difficult.  However, you can fit a modified treadmill under it as you can see in this video of me using the desk.  I'm able to type comfortably while walking at 2.2 MPH.

If I may presume that the reason you want a height-adjustable desk is so you can sometimes sit and sometimes stand ( or walk!), then take the idea of height-adjustable and flip it on its head.  Just buy a tall chair instead.  (I only have a stool at the moment):

I have a height adjustable desk at work ( not ghetto'ized, like my home version).  The linear actuators for my desk come from LINKAK:


It is not uncommon, with hardwoods, to have to drill a pilot hole prior to nailing. If the wood you are working with is soft then you should investigate the circumstances, like is there a metal gusset plate or structural component that is interfering with the nailing.


Most efficient way to improve my house's heating

Replacing the windows with modern double-paned isn't worth the cost; they're not that much better. However, I would recommend looking around for gaps around the windows where the putty stuff has dried out and repairing them. That's a mostly-labor job, and isn't that hard.

In general, your first goal should be to seal any gaps. This is not only much cheaper than buying insulation, but can be done DIY. Look around windows, doors, and vents, as well as any other place where there are intentional holes in the house. These tend not to be done that well, and you may find unintentional gaps.

Is your house on a slab? You didn't talk about the floor insulation.

A new boiler could directly save you roughly 10% on your gas bill, but would be expensive. (You can run the numbers yourself.)


Does bare drywall need to be primed before painting?

Yes, you need to use a drywall sealer on bare drywall.  Using a primer or a sealer would also help blend in the differences with the existing surface you want to cover.

http://www.ehow.com/about_6636020_drywall-sealer-vs_-primer.html


That extra wire was providing hot to the second switch. The preferred way to do this is to connect the hot wire to two short pieces of wire (“pigtails”) with a wirenut. Run these wires to the two switches.

Another way, which I would highly discourage, is to connect the hot to the screw terminal on one switch and the jumper into the backstab of that switch, using the internal metal of the switch to connect them. This is not recommended because many people have had problems with backstab terminal connections going bad.

By the way, I don’t like the unused neutrals being covered just with tape. You should use a wirenut on each. With a single wire, you don’t need to strip the end. Just screw it onto the insulation.


Return your fan and get a better fan

What you have discovered is one of the main reasons cheap ceiling fans with built-in remote receivers are a bad deal in the long run: the packaged receiver is designed based on the assumption that that's the only way you'll ever control the ceiling fan.

So, I'd take this fan back to where you got it from and get a better fan that supports separate fan and light wall switches instead -- you'll be glad you did in the long run.


How do I run CAT-6 cable in existing drywall?

I did this yesterday, so it's fresh on my mind. :)

First, for your wires and whatnot, I highly recommend monoprice.com. Excellent products, and very affordable. I also found an excellent, power-saving 8-port 1Gbps switch on Amazon.

In a best-case scenario, you'd want to run the wires across the attic/crawlspace and then down/up into the walls. If there's any way to access over your head or below your feet, that's the way to go. In that case, interior walls are easy to get to, just aim right when drilling down! This is by far the best solution, since the only drywall disturbed is where you install the jack.

But as for exterior walls--forget about ceiling access, the combination of tight working spaces, insulation, etc. will make it impractical to do without opening the drywall and running across the wall. And in most cases, floor access will be just as hard.

For that scenario (across the wall), you'd need to open a small section of drywall (perhaps 3"x8" across each stud, and use a drill with a LONG bit to get through the studs at an angle. Then, like a ceiling-down or crawlspace-up installation, use a fish tape to pull the wire through.

You'll need about a 5/8" hole or so through the studs to get a CAT6 cable with the RJ-45 end on it through the hole. You can go a lot smaller for just the wire, but I recommend buying cables with the RJ-45 connector molded on--proper punch-down for CAT6 leaves a lot less room for error than 5 or 5e, and MonoPrice and others sell an excellent Keystone-style coupler so the wall-plate still has an RJ-45 jack, not a wire coming out of the wall.

Another option for across-the-wall installation is to run the wiring behind the shoe molding or the baseboards. Then, your run up to the jack can either be behind the wall (a short run that you should be able to fish relatively easily) or just up the wall (home improvement stores have cable channels to help tidy this up).

A third option for exterior walls is to run it in conduit on the outside of the home. Aesthetically, this is the worst option, but if the conduit is hidden by bushes or something where you need to go through the wall, it may be a viable option.

For jacks, I recommend a Keystone-type system combined with a low-voltage (orange and backless at Home Depot) old-construction electrical box. This combination offers the best flexibility for the future and easiest cable management (making the turns) inside the wall.

If you have thick plaster walls or shiplap behind drywall (common in older homes), skip the low-voltage box, you'll need deep, blue plastic boxes for old construction, and replace the screws that hold the wings with longer versions of the same, since those screws are only long enough for 5/8" drywall.

Other tips:

Always run two wires. One for what you're doing right now, and another (just a strong, loose wire without connectors) so you can pull something else through in the future easily without opening up the walls again.

Be generous with taping. It's always easier to remove electrical tape that is holding your fish tape to the wire you're pulling than it is to try to retrieve said wire if it come detached from the fish tape during the pull.


Pull chain fully retracted on ceiling fan

Just about all the switches I have encountered over the years can be taken apart to reroute the chain. Some have screws you can just remove, some have metal screws that have to be removed with pliers. Before you try to take the switch apart, remove it from the fixture and just shake it slowly to see if you can get the tip of the chain out. If this doesn't work, then apart it goes. Separate the two halves carefully because there are some springy contacts in there and you don't want them flying across the room.


This is really about your expectations of the flooring.  If you are more worried about looks then you need to go with a solid hardwood.  Bamboo is a very hard wood and will last many pets - when we are talking about surface damage.

However scratching will eventually breach the stain/poly finish - and then when they pee/poop that will get in the wood and it is basically never come out.  So this depends how well you upkeep the floors and how many accidents you have.  The "look" of the floor will be dependent on the wood rating and bamboo is very hard (oak would be fine too), the grain of the wood (wood with more character hides things better and flat woods show), and the color - a light color will hide scratches.

Your other option is pure vinyl/rubber laminates.  Here is something that I have installed - also Home Depot has a line of planking (and some look like porcelain tile) that I have used.  Both were great - installed easy and pure rubber.  Have used them in many many basements.  This won't give you the exact feel of hardwood but they look great and can be FULLY cleaned.

So it really comes down to the upkeep you want to do, how truly clean you want everything, and the look/style you are going for.


Installing light fixture in Toronto ON condo

The novice's rule of wiring is "Not all wires in the box were put there just for your project".  Lots of wires have lots of jobs to do. They don't all relate to your project.  Leave them alone unless you really, really know what you are doing. Otherwise you will break the other jobs.
In particular, if wires are already bundled together, they are not "one for  you and a bunch of spares".  There are no spares (with rare exception). They are all doing other jobs.  You can add to them, but do not separate them.
Green is ground.
White is neutral.
If you want the light to turn on and off with the switch, attach its hot wire to the single wire courteously marked "LIGHT" by the original installer.
If you want something else to happen, attach the lamp's hot wire to the yellow bundle. I suspect that will make the light run 24x7, but I don't actually know.


How do I repair this rot/insect damage on my wall plate?

Pacific Northwest here Corvallis/ Springfield resident for 35 years , I don't see any evidence of ants, termites or beetles our areas chewing pests, it looks more like a fungus or dry rot but is very limited , I would take a screwdriver and press to see if the damage is only on the surface if the screwdriver doesn’t go far it’s only surface damage and a fungicide then a wood treatment to harden and seal the surface should be used. I have found homes that have used the wood Treatment on spongy dry rot , the area sealed and it passed inspection but was noted as a concern, I would probably shim the stud but nothing other than that is really needed from the photo, I might leave it open for a few weeks to see if you do have a small leak  and any leaks would need to be fixed but after treating the wood with a fungicide and adding a shim or 2 , I would probably button it up once I was sure there are no leaks into that area if the wood is solid.

I do not believe it is pest based because in all 3 of our normal pests they chew channels and holes not just surface damage that I see. Do this is why I would treat the wood possibly saturate with a hardner based on the screwdriver test.


Wiring a ceiling light to a switched receptacle

First, stop using backstabs.  See how the wires go into that receptacle, jabbed into holes where magic fingers grab the wire?  Those are super unreliable and will give you nothing but trouble on down the road.  Switch to the side screws.  In some cases you will have more wires than the side screws can accommodate.  In that case use pigtails and wire nuts.  Or use Leviton's commercial tier receptacles that use "screw-to-clamp" back connections, they cost (are you sitting down?) $3.

Now, get some colored electrical tape.   On the /2 cable coming down from the light, I want you to wrap the black wire with red tape, making it a red wire.  Do it on both ends if able.  This is now a red wire.  At this point, lucky us, all the wires work out to be color coded: red is switched-hot for the lamp.

Once you've done what I just said with tape marking, take the receptacle and break the "tab" off between the two brass screws.

all the black wires go together and to the upper brass screw.
all the red wires go together and to the lower brass screw.
all white wires go together and to the silver screw(s) which are still joined to each other.

Looks like the switch is fine the way it is.  Switches have 2 screws that want the red and black wire.

Oh, you want the switched receptacle on the lower, because it will rarely ever be unplugged - if it's on top, it's in the way evertime you try to use the other plug.


Decking - Shorter Sister Joists for Abutted Boards?

As the sister joist is not to reinforce the structure of the deck, but only to support the ends of the floor planks then making if from multiple short pieces will not be a problem.

it doesn't even need to be the full size of the other joists, you can use 2x4 or whatever. is convenient.

It's also legal to rest two plank ends on a single joist (each end about half way across) but if your deck is too long for your planks to be used that way you can't do that.

I'd consider staggering the boards so that all the joins don't happen in a straight line.


It sounds like the relief valve is sticking. Once the head pressure is gone it should close so it can start again. I have had to replace them in the past and have been able to clean carbon deposits out of the valve on oil lubricated models, and last is to make sure no sawdust or dirt is causing the arm not to close on the outside of the switch.


How should I connect a ceiling fan with four 12/2 cables coming in?

2 hot feeds are almost certainly not "in series" - hardly anything in household wiring is, or should be, other than a switch is "in series" with the things it controls (which are in parallel if there's more than one of them.)

So, cap one off and don't worry about it, as they are the same circuit going to the same box. Nobody knows why the original person did that, possibly including the original person. Unless one is already connected to a switch? Have you checked for that (the switch would happen to be ON when you were testing and found both to be line voltage.)

Deciphering poorly labeled wires is tedious but needful. There are various methods which vary depending on your available tools. I like to make use of a multimeter on the ohms setting on (verified) de-energized wires where possible, connect the suspected far ends, see if you get a low resistance, disconnect them and make sure the resistance becomes infinite, label. Or use a 9 volt battery and the volts setting (extra reminder that you have verified that the wires are NOT connected to line voltage by some means, FIRST!)

I am personally not a fan of attaching power to wires going I know not where, and a cheap multimeter is quite inexpensive, really.

One thought on the "fan .vs. light" labelling (other than being ready for fans with separate inputs) is that the "light" wiring may also run to other "light-only" boxes in the garage?


What are the codes for electrical wiring in attics?

"Can you just have electrical wires exposed with all the junctions, in junction boxes, provided all the exposed wiring is anchored to the wood studs? What about insulation that comes in contact with the wiring? Or does the wiring have to be an aluminum armor?"

Wiring should be stapled to the wood studs and have splices in accessible junction boxes. Check local electrical codes for specific requirements.

There are no issues with modern wiring touching insulation. It touches insulation all the time in your walls.

I guess I need to cover more bases: Don't use knob and tube. ever.


If you can not work on the inside and raise it then work on the outside. What I would do is use a roll on sealant and add drainage along the exterior walls and draw it away. Consider getting about 10 ft away them use perforated pipes to leech the water lines into the ground and at its ending, possibly look into a 3 ft hole filled with rocks.


So got the company out to fix it under guarantee and turns out it is just a very poorly designed system for buttons. It seems to be a AC Hum touch type button. The dish washer has small sponge (5mm x 5mm) wrapped with some conductive material which is meant to be attached to metal rods which forms the button inside the machine.

This gives the 'soft touch' as there is no moving parts like a normal button.

The problem was that these little sponges had fallen off the metal post which stopped it from working the way it was intended. Simple fix to re-attach the sponge back into place.

Well the fix from the guy that was sent out lasted all of 3 days before it broke again so this time I opened it up and fixed it myself (hopefully permanently).

Dead simple job, about 15 minutes taking the front panel off and glued them back into place with some contact adhesive.

Hope this will help someone else that has problems with a 'soft touch' button that will not work any more. Should be a similar type system for other soft touch buttons found on appliances.


How thoroughly should HVAC evaporator be sealed?

I usually pack the holes with a sealing clay we call monkey sh!t. Sorry I don’t know the proper name, if the air handler is inside the home some leakage is not as big of an issue. Having the air handler properly sealed will increase the system efficiency, on older homes that space was not conditioned because it all went up the vents or with gas appliances that was the case.


Hanging 10kg/22lbs pulldown projector screen from hollow plasterboard/drywall WITHOUT JOISTS

the Molly Hollow Metal Cavity Ceiling Spring Toggle Hook M4 x 60 mm  you link is itself "rated" to hold 25 lbs... based on it being metal and an M4 diameter.  It's the drywall that isn't going to hold up to a single molly like that even if it has the finger thing that opens up when behind the wall spreading the load over more area.

if u can't make the joists suspend the load, then what u do is take a piece of wood to your liking...

a 2x3 stud costing $1.98 per 8' if you are really cheap, cut to desired length
a nice piece of 1x4 or 1x6 hardwood cut to desired length
make a metal plate of sufficient area, tap screws into it which will then hold accept threaded hooks to hold the suspended load; a 1/8" thick plate could be least obtrusive.

all depends on what your goal is, permanent or temporary, nice looking or don't care

what u simply want to try to avoid is suspending the load between joists where it's going to pull on the drywall whenever possible.  And when you will be using the strength of the drywall do so over a wide an area as possible and from directly underneath the joists whenever possible.

your 7 foot long projector, get a 7' length of 1x4 hardwood, use wall anchors but use many staggered every 4" or so because you would not be drilling up into joists... the drywall is going to support the load of the 1x6 by 7' long.  And the hardwood then supports the weight of projector via however you hang it.

Take it down, spackle the molly holes.  you could also use mirror adhesive or any kind of drywall adhesive and glue the entire 1x4 by 7' but that would make that wood a permanent fixture on the ceiling... might look ok if painted white left there indefinitely (hang some plants or something).


How to seal a hole in a plastic bottle properly?

PETE is hard to bond to.  It does contract if you melt it, so here's an experiment to try (it may take several attempts to get the feel of how the plastic behaves at the melting point, but at least for the bottles, you have an endless supply):

In the area of the tube that will be next to the bottle wall, wrap a strip cut from another bottle many times tightly around the tube (the layers directly on top of each other), and hold it in place temporarily by wrapping a piece of wire around it or using a soldering iron to melt the end to the next layer.  Melt the windings with a heat gun until the layers flow together into a solid collar and let it cool.  See if it becomes mechanically tight enough that you would expect it to be water tight (if it can't be moved).

If so, slide the tube into the bottle from the inside so the collar is against the bottle.  Wrap another strip around the tube on the outside, against the bottle, and repeat the process.  Use the heat conducted by the tube to remelt the first collar and the wall of the bottle to fuse everything together, but not so much that it falls apart.

If you can't pass the tube through from the inside of the bottle, try this just fusing the wall of the bottle to the first collar on the outside.  You can experiment with adding a PETE washer cut from another bottle on the inside to provide additional wall material in the melting area.  It also might help to stick a metal washer on the tube on inside, against the wall, to help evenly heat the wall material to fuse it to the collar.  If the bottle's neck is still in place, working on the inside may not be practical, but you could still add the PETE washer on the outside for extra wall material.
If the first approach doesn't pan out, I would stick the tube through the bottle and seal it on the inside like this (if the bottle's neck is still in place and you can't access the wall inside at the tube, you could do this on the outside, but it wouldn't be nearly as effective):

Put a fairly thick band of silicone rubber (RTV or silicone caulk), on the bottle wall around the tube, getting it onto the tube.  Put a loose-fitting metal washer on the tube and press it against the rubber, hard enough to spread the silicone flat behind the washer and squeeze a little rim of silicone out around the washer's edge.  Silicone should also fill the washer's hole around the tube.  Add a little more silicone to seal the tube to the washer.

If you do this on the inside, any pressure will enhance the seal.  If you have to do it on the outside, you're relying on the bond between the silicone and the PETE, and that may not be great, especially if the tube might be moved.
Still another approach is to not use the bottle's wall; use the cap, instead.  You can pass the tube through the cap (or even multiple things through the cap, and then orient them as needed inside the bottle.  The cap seals water- (and pressure-) tight.  If the bottle is vertical, you may not even need to worry about how water-tight the tube is in the cap.  Otherwise, use silicone rubber to seal the tube to the cap on the inside of the cap (so any pressure enhances the seal).

If you also need mechanical strain relief, the plastic caps can be welded together by fusing them with heat.  Weld two caps back to back and drill through the joined tops for the tubing and whatever else.  One cap gets sealed with silicone as described above and is screwed onto the bottle.  The other cap can be filled with hot-melt glue or epoxy to provide mechanical support to the tube.


What are the different gauges of electrical wire available?

This article has a full list and gives examples: http://electrical.about.com/od/wiringcircuitry/a/electwiresizes.htm

For the most part though, 12 gauge wire is used for 20 AMP circuits and 14 gauge wire is used for 15 AMP circuits.  You probably can just use the 14 gauge wire in the basement (but it also depends on what you are doing in the basement as far as power requirements).  For example, these days a kitchen is always wired with 12 gauge/20 AMP circuits because of all the power demands.  The refrigerator will be on its own 20AMP circuit and so will the dishwasher.  Then depending on the number of outlets/counter space you may have one of more additional 20 AMP circuits.

The rest of the house is usually 14 gauge but the size of the house will determine the number of 15 AMP circuits for everything.

Also keep in mind that 14 gauge wire is much more flexible than 12 gauge.  So don't just go to 12 gauge just because... you will have a much harder time wiring everything if you do.


What should I do with the ground wire from my light fixture when there's no ground in the box?

This wire is usually connected to a bare wire ground if available, if not available and the box is metal connect it to the box. If you do not have an equipment ground the wire is not used.

Current code allows a ground to be added as long as it comes from the same panel that feeds this circuit (it can come from another circuit if grounded and fed from the same panel)


Gigabit Ethernet

If you need Gigabit Ethernet (1000Base-T), you're out of luck and will have to run new wires with CAT 5e or better cabling. It's likely not that difficult depending on your house. It seems like these jacks are above each other in the same place on each floor. Thus, you could easily drop a cable down from the upper floor and run them all down to your bottom floor. If the cables are in different spots, it'll be more challenging. However, you could just cut a small hole in your wall and then you'll need to cut another small hole in your frame using a bit like this. It's not as bad as it seems - especially if there's already a wire you follow (ie: your telephone line).

Fast Ethernet (100 Mb/s)

If you're only interested in Fast Ethernet (100Base-TX, ubiquitous), you can rewire those telephone lines to become ethernet lines without much work, provided the existing cables are CAT 5 or better. Check the outer sheath of the cable to determine what you have. If it is only CAT 3 then you are out of luck. You'll have to make a few concessions for that to work:

You'll have to have a switch on your middle floor
You're giving up your telephone lines (as they will be ethernet instead

The telephone wires in your house have 3 twisted pairs. Ethernet is usually ran with 4 twisted pair wires. However, for 100Base-TX, 2 of those twisted pair wires aren't used as only the orange and green are used for transmit and receive. The blue wires are used for Power Over Ethernet. From your pictures, you should be able to wire a RJ-45 Keystone Jack with all 3 pairs of your wire.

Basically, you'll need to take your orange, green, and blue wires and connect them to the terminal on your RJ-45 jack on each floor. On the middle floor, where you have 2 wires, you'll need 2 keystone jacks. Then, you'll need to put an ethernet switch in the middle floor and connect both the top and bottom floor (along with the middle floor). If you're only interested in connected the top and bottom floor, you can put in a small 6" patch cable to connect the top and bottom floors together. Obviously, you'll need to remove your telephone jacks to replace them with the RJ45 keystone jacks mentioned previously. While this solution isn't the fastest, it take minimum effort to get up and running.


How to select the right submersible pump for my fields?

This is a more complicated question than you've considered. To size a submersible pump, you need to know the total discharge head and the required flow rate. Part of the discharge head is calculated based on friction loss, which is based on the pipe diameter and length.

In irrigation systems, the flow rate is dependent on the type and number of sprinkler heads.

If you have any concerns that your well can't produce the required flow, you should test it. This basically means putting a very large pump down the well (which has a flow rate much greater than you need), and trying to pump the well dry. If it can't go dry, you know the rate is at least what the test pump is rated for. If it goes dry, you let it recover for a measured amount of time, then measure how much water you get out before it goes dry again. Basic math will give you the yield (in eg, gallons per minute).

If your well can't keep up, you either need lower-flow heads, or to install a low-yield system which basically consists of two parts: a well pump that continuously fills a big tank, and a second pump that draws from the tank. Once again, sizing of everything is dependent on the yield, required flow, elevation differences, etc.

You size the actual pump based on the performance curve of the pump, once you know other values.

In short, you effectively need to design the entire system up front, so you know it will all work. For example, if you run too small a pipe, your friction loss will be too high and you won't get enough flow. If you install too large a pump, it will be operating with too little head and not be as efficient as it should be, and probably dramatically shorten the life of the pump.


Dow, a manufacturer of XPS products, on their India web site, does not recommend using XPS under a roof deck.  This is due to the possibility of condensation occurring between the insulation and the structure.

As far as painting goes, US codes require a 15 minute thermal barrier over an interior foam, in the event of fire.  This could be satisfied by gypsum wallboard, obviating the need to paint.  For noninsulation interior uses, Dow permits latex paint.

Instead, they recommend using an "inverted roof" where the panels are placed OVER the waterproofing and covered with a ballast material that will weigh the panel down and protect it from sunlight.


Water hammer happens when there is too much pressure in the line when the valve shuts.  Ironically, it is a problem when the water supply doesn't have enough air, not water.  Since water can't be compressed, all of the pressure is transmitted to the pipe as mechanical force when the valve is closed, causing it to knock and rattle.  Reducing the water pressure can avoid the noise and may even go unnoticed with today's eco-friendly fixtures, but it is better to add arrestors so it can compress shock.
To reduce the water hammer effect, there needs to be a different place for the pressure to go.  Water hammer arrestors work by creating a compressible gap of air that can absorb the shock of the water hitting the suddenly closed valve.  They are usually installed at each fixture above the valve so that there is the least amount of shock on the line; however, a whole house water arrestor can work too as long as it can absorb excess water pressure.  An arrestor placed on the highest fixtures in the system can have the best effect as long as there is a path from each fixture to the air gap.
If it is new construction, there may be a PEX manifold which makes life easy.  But if not, to find the best place(s) to add a local arrestor:

Turn the water off and open every faucet to drain the system.
Close all the faucets and turn the water back on.
Turn on one faucet at a time, from the top floors down, until only water comes out, not air.  Pay attention to how long the air takes to come out and make sure to do both hot and cold.
The fixtures that take the longest to flush air have the longest path and need the arrestor.  If lower floors also spit air after upper floors are flushed, there is probably a siphon and they need arrestors too.

If the walls are closed on both sides, a quick test would be to add an external arrestor at the problem.  One like this mini arrestor can attach past the shutoff valve at the fixture.
My home was built in the 60's with all copper plumbing (even the sewer!) and we had water hammer that would shake the whole house.  I had local arrestors on the washer and a few toilets that helped, but the tub and shower were still loud.  When we renovated the upstairs bathrooms I added 6" buffers to both and the problem has now completely gone away.


Home automation depending on who entered the home

This heavily depends on your HA supervisor, for example with OpenHAB this can be done with the NetworkHealth binding : https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Network-Health-Binding.

The key here is to know your devices IP Address and monitor it.

Item in Openhab format:

Switch Phone_WIFI   "Phone 1"   (Status, Network)   { nh="192.168.1.101" }
Switch Phone2_WIFI   "Phone 2"   (Status, Network)   { nh="192.168.1.102" }

More details for OpenHAB: the binding will check the connection status of a given device with it's IP Address, then you can use a rule such as :

rule "Wife back home - Lights On"
when
    Item Phone_WIFI received update ON
then
    // turn on all lights
    postUpdate(All_Lights, ON)

end


Trying to Locate the Common or C Connector

The C wire should be the grounded terminal on the transformer.

You can confirm this by measuring AC voltage between the R terminal on the board, and the grounded terminal of the transformer.  You should measure somewhere around 24 volts.

Inside the unit, look for the place where a bunch of green wires meet up with a white wire, and attach to the frame of the unit.  Follow the white wire back to the transformer.   Attach you new C wire, to a convenient place along that path.


Best tool to cut 4mm thick straining wire

A common bolt cutter would do well, assuming solid wire and not stranded:

A more dedicated cable shears would be easier and make cleaner cuts, but it's likely much more expensive:


Why do all the window companies have terrible reviews?

You're really asking two questions:  "why do window companies have terrible reviews?' and "what should I do?"

Why do window companies have terrible reviews?

There is no single "best" answer.   In the U.S., the "Window" industry has lots of companies, like these:

local fabricators ("We are the factory!"), who buy glass by the truckload as a commodity, cut the glass and put it into frames (usually vinyl, sometimes fiberglass), and have their own installers.  These guys often run "50% off" sales", "buy one get one free", and spend tons of money on advertising: billboards, radio, TV commercials.   You can probably guess that anything that's regularly sold as "50% off" or "BOGO" is over-priced to begin with, or corners have been cut on quality.
small-time contractors who will install anything.  You can luck out and find a good one, or you can find one that will disappoint you.
"Window replacement" divisions of the major national window manufacturers.  You should know that "replacement windows" are not exactly the same as windows designed for new construction, and because they have installer crews, the national Replacement Window companies (like the local guys) are "sales-focused" (meaning production and revenue).   They are also sometimes run as an "arm's length" division of the parent company, so they benefit from the parent's reputation, but they are more than just a manufacturing company that focuses on a quality product -- they also have to deal with the public (retail), hire installer crews, and compete with the local guys in an industry that's not known for a stellar reputation.  These are the companies that will come to your house for a "free in-home consultation", sit on your couch, ask you if your spouse is home, ask you to "sign up today", offer "this week's special pricing", etc.

It may be that you were unlucky and picked "bad ones" to investigate their reviews, but bear in mind, the "barriers to entry" are low. I agree with the comments that "the typical person will only post (reviews) if they are upset"(1).  Some people in the comments even say that the whole window-replacement industry is a racket.

What should I do?

If the "yellow pages" / online search method isn't working for you, here are two easier ways to go.

 1. Find an independent home store.

Find a lumber yard that sells windows, doors, home improvement items and the like that does business with both the general public and contractors.

If you're lucky, and there are more than one in your area, start with the one that's been in business the longest.  Go talk to them.  They likely have a few contractors that they refer business to, or an in-house installation department, where they "sub out" to local contractors.

A business with a physical store to maintain will likely have screened their contractors well, and you know exactly where to go if there is a problem.

You may pay a slight premium, but a local business with a good reputation is a very good place to start.   You generally won't feel any pressure to sign-up for an installation when you walk into such a place, because that's not their business model (they have folks walking in all the time).

Talk to them about the windows they carry.  If you're looking at brand-name windows (in the U.S., names like Marvin, Pella, Andersen, Jeld-Wen), ask them about the different grades (levels of quality, or 'series') and what the differences are.  Some of the bigger brands not only have different grades, they get down into the "builder-grade" using different brand-names (like "Silver Line by Andersen").

Tell them what's important to you.

Insulation R-value.
Ease of cleaning.
Whether the screens are on the inside or the outside.
Exterior and interior colors.
Whether you want the glass to be as flat and non-wavy as possible.
Price range you can afford.
Materials (wood, vinyl, fiberglass) -- if you don't know windows well, especially have a discussion about this.
How the windows operate.
Warranty.

You should be able to learn a lot about the product, and can come back to them multiple times until you're comfortable. Take their business card and let them know you'd like to come back with more questions.  There won't be any pressure to sign up now while a sales person is sitting on your couch.

Source: I've had positive experiences in multiple U.S. metro areas where I've lived going this route (for Windows and other items like bathroom renovations).

2. Go to a national home-improvement center.

I don't always recommend them, but if you are in the U.S. and have one of the national chains in your area (Lowe's and Home Depot), you can always go to the windows department, talk to their people, and sign up with their installation.

Their business model is similar to locally-owned stores -- they have local contractors that they "sub-contract out to" -- but you will be dealing with the store and scheduling through folks that work at the store.

You may not pay the absolute lowest rate, but in my experience you will get a good-quality installation and if there is any disappointment, they will be in a position to make it right.  The national names screen their contractors pretty carefully (they have to, they can't afford bad publicity) and require their contractors maintain minimum levels of satisfaction.

My personal preference is to support locally-owned businesses in my community when I can, but if #1 does not work for you, then #2 will give you a good-quality result at a fair price.

Source: Personal experience dealing with the inside-sales desk at both of the national chains.

There is no one best answer to this question, but this should get you moving on your project.


As noted in a comment, unless the frame itself is damaged, you just replace the screen in the existing frame. I'm guessing that the "damage" in the outside picture is just an odd aberation caused by your camera, or you'd be asking how to repair siding, too! :)
You pull the spline out of the groove and remove the old screen. You might be able to reuse the spline, but if you can't they're not expensive.
You lay out the new screen over the door, then, using a spline tool, you push the spline into the groove to hold the screen in place.
The hardest part is keeping the screen nice and smooth so it looks good when you're done. This shouldn't be too difficult, though, if you take your time and employ a helper or two to hold it tight.


What's the difference between Husky brand and HDX brand?

Marketing-wise, I'd say it's similar between Sears and KMart; same company with some same products but different markets. HDX covers a larger market-share, they have trash bags to storage to tools where Husky is almost exclusively tools.
Product-wise, Husky is trying to compete with Craftsman(Sears) and Kobalt(Lowes) offering lifetime warranties where HDX products do not.

Husky & HDX are two separate brands, Husky hand tools have a lifetime
warranty and HDX does not, but is a more affordable house brand of
tools we sell now.
--The Home Depot Customer Care

--Source


I had a similar situation recently and here's what I did. Disclaimer-there might be better ways to do this and I suggest you wait on more answers or comments.
I created a temporary header near the doorway using 6x6's on the ceiling and floor, with bottle jacks and studs to hold the system up. I used foam board on the ceiling to not damage the drywall finish. Once everything is in place I slowly cranked up each bottle jack a little at a time until I could tell I was getting good pressure on the ceiling. If you go this route, you need to verify which way the floor and ceiling joists run, so that you can distribute the load. If you have trusses, make sure you put this on the side of the wall that keeps it under the truss. You will need someone to help get you get this set up, it's difficult to hold everything in place while working the bottle jacks.


Connect two lamps to the same ceiling socket, controlled by two three-way switches

You're looking at things from the lamp's perspective.  From that perspective, multi-way switching is irrelevant.

On the lugs are the switched-hot and neutral that you need to provide to the other lamp.  Just carry it from there to the other lamp, and you're done.


How do I design and build a simple, sturdy, and affordable table?

Once you decide on the weight load and the aesthetic aspects of your table, you can determine the distance between supports using the "Sagulator" (online Shelf Sag Calculator) located at http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm.

Legos (being plastic) are generally pretty light, so unless you have an incredible amount of them, probably most hardwoods or edge-banded plywoods are going to do just fine for you.  I like to have supports underneath a table at least every 2 feet, even for light loads, since some woods will sag under their own weight over distances much longer than that.  But again, give the Sagulator a try if you really want to be sure without buying a bunch of expensive wood and trying it yourself.

As far as affordable, Pine or Fir is probably going to be one of the cheapest things you can find, but it's soft, so it's not the strongest if you have a lot of weight and wide spans.  Poplar is relatively inexpensive for a hardwood, and does pretty well for shelving, tables, cabinets, and quite a few other applications.

The easiest option is probably plywood or some other relatively light composite material.  Any kind of plywood should be a good bet since it's dimensionally stable, comes in a few standard sizes, and you can rely on its factory edge as a straightedge if you don't have a ton of experience or tools to verify angles yourself.  It's also easily cut with a circular saw (which I'll assume you have if you're planning on building a table).  It can also be veneered with various laminates for a smooth surface or stained if you want the wood to show.

You might also be interested in watching videos on building tables so you can get some of the basics down.  There are some designs out there already that are pretty widely accepted for expanses similar to what your plans indicate.  While you won't need all the detail of either of these, they should help you understand more about stretchers, aprons, and supports, including where they're located and how they're reinforced.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/arts-and-crafts-coffee-table-video-preview/

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/trestle-table-pt-1/

I also find it helpful when designing a piece of furniture to do a few image searches for something that resembles the style I want.  This way you can pick out things you like from various designs that have already worked for someone and incorporate them into your own.  Here are some things I found for bespoke tables:

http://www.google.com/search?q=bespoke+table&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=RBKqT7aZO-bW2gW_qY2mAg&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CEYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1680&bih=926

http://www.bespoke-tables.co.uk/


How can I remove a key that has broken off in a lock?

In the past I've used a thin barbecue skewer to extract broken keys, I also found a set of eyeglass screwdrivers handy as well. It all depends on how deep it broke off of course.

EDIT:
How you use the skewer depends on how the key has broken. Keys are commonly made of cast lightweight metals which have a rough texture with lots of pits outcroppings along the break. What you are trying to do is use the point of the skewer to get into one of those and then use the bottom or top of the lock slit as a fulcrum to pry the key out.

Alternatively if you can get the point into the top of the lock above the key you may be able to get the point in front of the rearmost tooth and then use to the top of the lock slit for leverage.

It may be useful to have more than one skewer, thin screwdriver, what have you available and use them in conjunction.


How can find out the right paint to handle this unpainted gap?

There are two problems:

Matching the original color

This generally involves finding some documentation - which you say you don't have - of the original paint. That is not at all unusual. But if you could find that original color then you could go to a paint store and they could mix up a small container to match the same basic specification. Paint stores only stock a few colors (like "white"). Everything else is mixed to order. However, mixing is not entirely perfect, especially with a small batch (less room for error in the proportions of different colors), and there are also variations between paint manufacturers, so that two nominally identical colors from different manufacturers may appear slightly different.

Matching the current color

Paint color (and fabric color and carpet color, etc.) changes over time due to weathering and other factors. So what you often want to do is match the current color because what you are really trying to do is make everything - old and new - look the same.

The usual way to match a paint color is to take a sample to a paint store, where they can scan it and then produce a paint to match it. That is easy if you have any removable painted pieces - whether chips starting to peel off or a piece of lumber that can be temporarily removed from the rest of the structure. If that is not the case then you are left with the final option:

Paint Color Chips/Samples/Fan Decks

A professional painter will walk into your house with something like this:

and let you pick the new colors for all your rooms.

Buying a fan deck for one little job doesn't make sense. But many paint stores will have samples or color chips or individual pages from these decks available for customers to take home, whether to match an existing paint color or to help pick a new paint color for any reason at all.*

With the picture of your existing paint, pick up a range of chips that seem to be close, then go home and see what is closest - a typical digital picture does not show exactly the same colors as the real object.

With any of these possible solutions, keep in mind that paint looks different wet vs. dry. On the one hand, it may not look quite right initially but when dry look like a very good match, but the reverse is also possible. But for a small area like this, "close enough" is probably "good enough" until you feel like repainting everything at one time.

*My wife (fiance at the time) wanted to tell her bridesmaids what color to use for their dresses. We went to Home Depot and picked out some sample color chips. (All kind of looked the same to me...)


Well water system - chlorine tank remains full

I have a chlorine injection water treatment system for our well water. The chlorine tank has a dip hose with a filter on the submersed end. This hose runs to an injection pump. There is a dial on the pump for setting the dose to be injected per cycle of the pump, which is triggered by a water flow valve. The injector also has a valve to prevent back-pressure from forcing water into the pump and conceivably into the chlorine tank

But wait, there's more.

The now-chlorine-infused water should then enter a settling tank, to remove reactants from the chlorine and any sediment. The next tank should be a carbon filter to remove left-over chlorine. If you have a water conditioner/softener, that's the next stop on its travel to your plumbing/dispensation within your residence.

It's unlikely that the dip hose filter is clogged.

It's possible a tech turned the dose knob and reduced the volume to zero. There's no set figure for the dose; it's established over time and testing of the chlorine level at the use point.

The injector valve can easily become clogged, especially if you have a high iron content. My valve is called a duckbill and the iron deposits fill the beak, causing it to stick open, allowing more iron into the opening, eventually filling and clogging the valve. Local suppliers will carry the valves, but online is about one-quarter to one-sixth the cost. I believe I paid five dollars each, possibly less for what the locals charge about thirty-five bucks!

After the injection valve, there's very little to go wrong, unless your flow valve is stuck in the off-position. That's very unlikely, as the flow valve would prevent water flow to the house. It's more common to have it stick in the on position, over-dosing the water with chlorine, easily detected by taste and smell.

The injection pump typically dislikes to be run dry and will sometimes not prime when the chlorine tank is refilled. There should be a priming knob/valve atop the pump. When turned 90 degrees to detent, the air in the line is forced out. You should have a discharge/priming hose that returns to the chlorine tank and can watch the pulses from the pump when the priming is complete.

It's a high maintenance system if something goes awry, but when it's running well, it's great to have clean iron-free water. If you discover that it's the injection valve, buy a quantity and replace them on a calendar basis, rather than on a failure basis. I get three months between changes and have no more injection lapses.

Other types of systems can be found at the clean water store web site which effectively changes the method that triggers/measures/dispenses the chlorine. The above description is one of those at the site. The image below comes from this site.


Solar system with both grid tie-in and backup power without battery?

Would it be accurate to re-state the option 3 differently: Have a battery-less system that provides power to our house when the power goes out, but only at all times when the sun is shining, and sells excess to the grid?

Probably the biggest reason why your solar installer can't do #1 and #3, ie have panels that sell to the grid normally, and work islanded when the grid is down, all without a battery bank, is this: His company is trained for and sells only a few packaged PV systems. They simply don't carry one that functions this way.

It's possible to do, of course, but accomplishing it requires a custom design using lower-level components. Many solar installers prefer to stick to plugging together pre-designed commodity systems comprising off-the-shelf modules.


Do you have any adhesive/sealant left from the install you could fill it with?

Mine came with color matched adhesive for the back splash pieces.


How should I connect my dishwasher if the wires are yellow and blue?

Where are you located and how old is the house?

In the U.S. there are some standards for household wire color coding: http://www.angieslist.com/articles/what-do-electrical-wire-color-codes-mean.htm

If you own a multimeter, you can measure the voltage on the yellow and blue wires. Determine what the voltage is and if it's correct for the dishwasher. You will also be able to tell which wire is hot and which is neutral.

The black on the dishwasher is your hot wire, and the white is the neutral.

If you are not able to, or not comfortable testing the wires, please hire a professional to do it for you. Household electrical can be dangerous and must be done correctly.


Romex into Carlon 5070 phenolic resin boxes. Knockouts?

The type of knockout you describe on a plastic box is an integral NM clamp -- it's Code to use these on NM cable (but only on NM cable -- if you want to hook up conduit to it, you'll need to drill your own knockout.)


What are some tips for fixing gaps between door and jamb in an exterior door?

Your plan to fix the gap in the center of the door sounds fine. I might suggest using some shingle shims instead of flat stock however.  If you want to just remove the interior trim only, that is fine also. Using the shingle shims, place the thickest end in first and by trial and error, adjust the opposing shim to a size that will snug in nicely and then by gently tapping it in next to the first shim, remove the excess gap. Put a small finish nail through the jamb and shims to prevent them from moving. Drilling a pilot hole will assure not splitting the shims with the nail in inserted. Now just trim off the excess and reinstall your trim.  Job done!    Good Luck


Install meter box on existing steel siding

These questions got way off the intended topic.   My question was about the physical mounting of the meter box,  mounting blocks,  how to remove needed siding,  etc.

Over the weekend I carefully removed from and believe I can remove the siding panels I need without destroying my siding.


There's a few possibilities, and it's hard to pick one given the area

If the inside of your house is warm and moist, and the attic space or outside of your house is cold, the water could be condensing inside the pipe.
There could be a plumbing leak in the space above the fan that's leaking out the fan as a path of least resistance.
You could have some other vapor barrier issue in the area around your fan that's causing condensation.


Replacing/Fixing Exterior "Trim" Around Door and Windows

If it was done with the siding, you're in for a fiasco. You might just trim it off to the siding's J-channel. But, it should be nailed-on along both edges. Unless you've got a Sheet Metal Brake or know how to duplicate its clean bends without a Brake, then I'd just leave it & tack it down behind the hinges. It's likely that it's covering rotted wood & what you don't know won't turn into a huge ordeal. Unless, you're up for doing it completely right.


With circuit off, why would neutral wires spark and lights on a different circuit flash?

It sounds like you have a neutral shared between loads on two (or more) circuits. This can be hazardous for a couple of reasons.
Firstly because when a neutral that is supplying a load is disconnected it will become live. So you test for dead with everything connected and it looks fine, but then you disconnect the neutrals and suddenly you have a live wire in the box.
Secondly because the neutral conductor may not have adequate overload protection.
There is a legitimate construction known as a multi-wire branch circuit where two separate hots share a neutral, but extra precautions are needed to make it safe. Firstly the two hot lines must have "common maintenance shutoff", either with a double pole breaker or with the two breakers handle-tied together. Secondly the two hot lines must be on different "legs" of the supply to prevent overloading of the neutral conductor.


It depends what "worth it" means, because I would say it's much like other hobbies or activities that one can do. Is it worth it making your own candles? Your own quilts? Your own tri-level deck out back? That's something a stranger can't easily quantify.
Economically, unless your time is really cheap (eg. you're young/old), it's not worth it from a materials standpoint. You can expect to spend 10 mins on a board in aggregate, after pulling nails, hand-sanding, sorting, and dimensioning. That's if you have basic tools. A planer would cut that down, but that's an expensive piece of gear, and pallet wood "surprises" can drive up the consumables cost of planer operation, negating some of the savings.
Locally, I can buy a new 1x4 that's a couple pallets long for $4. So the labor cost of one hour of work (6 finished boards) would be $12 if you replace lumber. The lumber would be in much better shape though, so consider that. If you want crude and cheap, a 1x3x96 "furring strip" is only $2; or $6/hour for comparable quality.
Money aside, it can be a fun limitation for advanced woodworkers, a cheap/free source of material for hobbyists or crafters, or the only source for those with limited means. The resulting creations are a class of their own; a pallet-wood ____.  It does generate some "bragging rights" if you have something really nice that you got "for free" or "upcycled" or "rescued", depending on the type of bragging you need.
I would say that if you want the challenge, go for it, but if you just want cheap wood and don't mind "character", use furring strips.


How long and how often should I water my concrete?

Best is to keep it damp "forever." Design strength for most concrete is based  on 28 days at 21C/70F. The early part of the cure is the most critical. Time is doubled at 50F/10C and reduced at higher temperatures - so long as it's kept damp.

Covering with damp cloths/burlap/sacking and then covering that with plastic can help to keep it damp longer (from a single application of water.) Just covering with plastic helps some. How frequently you need to apply water will vary with climate and how much you have done to keep the water in place.


Adjustable wrench use, how to quickly determine which way to turn the wheel

< frivolous >

You have really already provided your own answer to this question.

Up to widen the jaws.

As a mind joggler just remember "Up to widen your horizons".

Although this is useless if you flip the tool over.

< /frivolous >

If this is truly an issue why not paint, with red finger nail polish on each side, a turn direction arrow for the wheel and a corresponding one for the jaw direction.


I don't know where in the world you are, but in the U.S. no one fills that gap with plaster. We install "casing", or trim frames, around the window. Casing laps onto both the window jamb and the wall.

Image source

If you were to fill with plaster you'd want to reinforce the joint with fiberglass tape or similar. The seams between the new plaster, the wall, and the window are sure to crack.


Powering a Window Air Conditioner -- 10' 12/3 SJTW extension cord vs new outlet?

R.E. Has a great litmus test.  If you are going to sell, rent or AirBnB the place like this, fit a proper receptacle. Otherwise...

It's about cord damage, and melting extension cords

A lot of Electrical Code and UL rules come from data science.

Most consumer extension cords are intended for, you know, lamps. They are 16-18AWG, good for 7.5-10 amps in ideal conditions, but they often have problems at connector ends.  Historicaly A/C units pulled as much as 13 amps (less now, since Energy Star and SEER).  As such, it's a high priority for NFPA and UL to discourage extension cord use, because consumers will make bad choices in extension cords.

However, via data science, it has emerged that a large number of casualties happen because of frayed air conditioner cords.  This is why air conditioners use funny cords, and have that GFCI-looking thing on their plug.   It is actually optimized to detect cord damage.  Needless to say, that gadget can't protect an extension cord - so an extension cord defeats its purpose.

Use an extension cord ...carefully

This is me advising going against UL advice and Code, if you are able to take responsibility for the reasons.

Or, use surface conduit

You add a "starter box" at your receptacle, then follow the wall to a suitable location.  #12 THHN wire will suffice, presuming it is actually a proper, mains-listed surface conduit system like Legrand Wiremold, and not merely a cord-organizer intended for ethernet and the like.


Is it safe to run servers in a room that contains a boiler? [fire safety]

The regulations say for domestic premises you must maintain 150mm separation between any low pressure gas pipework and any electrical equipment. The specific room location is irrelevant.
So it would seem for your scenario you will be fine.


It's the grey wire in the thermostat wire bundle

According to the wiring diagram posted for your furnace, the C wire should be the grey wire in the thermostat wiring area of your furnace.  So, you should just be able to connect to that.