Can I install a dishwasher in the former oven location?

As far as I know, there's no reason you can't put a dishwasher just about anywhere you like in a kitchen.  It's usually next to the sink because it makes sense to put it there, as well as reduces the amount of plumbing necessary for the kitchen.

Practicality issues aside, there's a fair bit of extra work involved to do this.
 Everything below assumes a USA location with regard to electrical.  The rest should be fairly universal.

You'll have to run water lines from the sink over to the oven space to supply the dishwasher.
If your oven is gas, electric is fairly easy, as both the dishwasher and the oven use 120V, however, you'll have to properly deal with moving the gas line to the new oven location.
If the oven is electric you'll have more electric work, as the 240V oven line has to be safely moved to wherever your oven is going, and a 120V line will need to be run to the dishwasher.  Note that, if you opt to use the plug-in method of powering your dishwasher, you cannot have the plug behind the dishwasher as you can with an oven.
In either case, it's best to move the circuit or outlet the dishwasher was on previously to the new location, as dishwashers are supposed to have their own dedicated circuit.
You'll need to replace the section of countertop that will be missing once the oven is moved.  For best appearances, you may need to replace the smaller sections on either side of the oven with one large section.
I don't think you specifically need to remove the microwave/hood vent from over the range, but it may look odd.  If you do, you may wish to replace the wall cabinets above the now-dishwasher with full-height ones (also not explicitly necessary as far as I know, but again it may look odd).

Overall, I'd venture if you're in the middle of doing a full kitchen remodel (as in, a cabinets-fully-removed level of remodeling), it's as good a time as any to rearrange the layout.  Otherwise, it may be more time, effort, and money than it's worth.


Is turning the heater off in absence cheaper than holding a low temperature?

Lower the thermostat when you will not be in the room. Better to get a programmable thermostat which will allow you to set when the heat goes on for a weekly schedule. Smart phone apps have this kind of wireless control for heating, too. As Aloysius commented on, thermostat shouldn't be so low that pipes freeze and burst.


Is 4 ten-feet 4x4s enough for a shed foundation?

4x4x10 (spaced 4'0" apart) is rather questionable and I would expect it to sag in the middle where the shed "runners" (labelled #10 in diag.) rest in the middle of the 10'0" span.  If the shed floor joists (FJs) (#9 in diag.) are attached to the runners (#10) the sagging could be minor.

4x4's are inferior to sistered 2-2x4's because the grain in 4x4s is directionally uniform, whereas, 2-2x4's will have differentiated grain.

I couldn't find a link to a span table for 4x4's but found this one (which recommends 2-2x10's for a 10'0" span): span table  However, this assumes underlayment only and your shed has runners and FJs.

While I think 4x4x10 is "doable", I think (sistered) 2-2x6's should be a minimum. It really depends on what the live weight load will be (ie. what's going to be stored in the shed...especially toward the center).  In my 6x10 shed I used 2x10x6'0" (@ 24" center) with a 2x12 rim joist.


Tiny bulges on wallcoverings made of paper and not vlies/vinyl

putting them up without these is impossible because all random dust is visible

This is false. A wall can be made very nearly perfectly smooth and all but the tiniest of foreign materials can be removed. It is all about the preparation. Wallpaper has been a standard wallcovering for many years and not all jobs have "acne".
Often, the person paying for the job is just not prepared to pay for what near-perfection costs. Other times, they pay for near-perfection but the contractor is not capable of providing that. Other times, neither party even discusses what their idea of perfection is and expectations for what good looks like are not aligned.
The wallpaper hanging craft is as much art as science, and professional paperhangers employ esoteric methods that most people do not have in their repertoire. If your workers were not part of your local paperhangers' guild or trade union, I would bet they are not wallpaper specialists.


Lost small screw in sink, can I open tubing to retrieve?

That style of sink drain that you show has a trap at the bottom. A trap on a sink, regardless of the style you show or the traditional U style, serves two purposes:

Catch things that people drop down the drain
Prevent sewer gasses from coming up

This means that any water device that has a drain in a house must have some trap. IF your sink did not have the one shown in the picture, chances would have been that it is down stream somewhere.  In both styles, you simply can unscrew where it attaches with a wrench of appropriate size and the trap comes off.

Note: Keep in mind that after retrieving your item to let water flow through it for a little bit again as this puts a layer of water back in the trap which is what really protects from sewer gasses.


What is the right way to strip power wires?

This is the stripper I use:

It's got cutouts for 14-2 and 12-2 NM cable sheathing and inner conductors, and a decent set of sharp bypass cutters near the hinge for cutting wire.  It works better than anything else I've used for 14-2 and 12-2 Romex -- just squeeze, give it a little wiggle for good measure, and the sheathing pulls right off.  It's almost impossible to nick the conductor insulation inside.  For 3-way wire it's not so foolproof -- I use the cutter blades close to the hinge to score around the sheathing and then pull it apart.  Probably as good as any other method and is still faster than doing it manually with a knife.

They also make a 12/10 gauge version and possibly others.  I got mine at Lowe's.


Are two circuits allowed to have a common neutral?

It is perfectly fine and within code. The only stipulations are that you must splice the neutral, you cannot use the screws on one device to carry the neutral to the other, and that you must use a two-pole or handle-tied breaker.


Can rough in shower drain be offset below grade?

If the J bend is not in place yet the pipe will need to be cut back to add it. Then with that in place the drain can be lined up to the right spot.
That blocked out portion of concrete is just for that purpose, get the pipe close, then fine tune it when the final hook up happens.


Removing rigid copper pipe to install dishwasher

You should be able to turn the body of the angle-stop if the nut is held firm with another wrench.  if you turn the body and not the nut - It is less likely to damage the copper tube.  Depending upon how tight the nut was set - will determine how deformed the copper pipe is.  sometimes it is difficult to remove the ferrel.

You have so much oxidation on this valve - I would replace it.
Personally, I never install an appliance onto an old valve.

It looks like you have enough room to cut off the entire angle stop.  Use a fine toothed metal blade and cut square - then deburr.  A new multi angle stop can then be used with the matching outlets you need.
The braided dish washer supply lines come in different configurations.  I have found that many of the new dishwashers have a large threaded connector instead of the older 1/4" compression.  check yours.

P.S. check inside your pipes for pitting.  Often this oxidation can be a result of iron in water which destroys copper pipe.


Why does water pressure spike when sprinkler is winterized?

I believe with the sprinkler system shut off you now have a smaller amount of water trapped in the system so the pressure changes will be more noticeable. The distance from the shutoff valve to the branch control valves makes a kind of pressure tank that absorbed the spikes.


I'll try to take your questions one-by-one.

You have two easy options for leveling the chalk line. The first would be to use a carpenter's level; you'd measure 34" from the floor at one end of the bench-to-be, then hold a long 2x4 to the studs with one end right at the mark. Lay your level on the top of the 2x4 and tip the 2x4's other (not at a mark) end slightly up or down until your level reads an accurate level. Now you can have a helper mark across all of your studs with a pencil instead of a chalk line. The second easy option doesn't concern itself with level at all, only with being parallel to the floor. Measure 34" from the floor at each end of your bench-to-be and mark that spot.
Since you're in Washington, I think you'll probably have 2x4s available in spruce or "pressure treated", and probably no other options. Spruce should be just fine.
The plywood braces (you can make them from either 3/4" CDX or ACX plywood) may be mounted only on one side of each stud or for greater strength & rigidity may be mounted on both sides. I've built a "strongarm" wood-storage rack very similarly to what is described here; I used smaller braces, but mounted both sides. For most in-garage DIY purposes, a brace on only one side would be just fine. If you plan to do heavier work, you may certainly install one on the other side of each stud, too.
Elmer's Wood Glue, which is a yellow PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) glue, is perfectly satisfactory. Franklin or Gorilla or TiteBond would also work just fine. You'll want a yellow glue or a polyurethane glue here; white glue gives you more work time before it sets up, but it's not as strong.
You could use nails instead of screws, but they'll be much harder to drive without damaging anything. Your siding is attached to the outsides of those studs, so every time you beat on the side of a stud the nails holding the siding in place will become looser. I'd much rather that you used screws. You can use 1-5/8" drywall screws. It helps if you have a drill to drive them (much easier on your wrists).
If you're not going all the way to the end, just stop wherever you want to stop. Until you install your benchtop, your new supports will feel very flimsy, but it will suddenly stiffen up when you install the top. There's no need for any additional brackets or supports.
Nope, the 2x4 braces don't have any direct attachment to the studs - they're held only by the plywood braces.
If you like, you could certainly stain and/or varnish your benchtop. If you do, though, and if you do any heavy work on its top, the stain/varnish will soon look terrible. You can use the same plywood for the top as you used for the braces. If you use ACX plywood , you'll have a much nicer benchtop than if you use CDX plywood, but a lot of very hard-working benchtops are made from CDX - they just have shallow knotholes in some spots (CDX may have "voids" and knotholes that won't be present in ACX).
I'd like to urge you not to make a 36"-deep bench. They seem handy in theory, but your back cannot be comfortable reaching that far - you get backaches very quickly. Really. I'm 6'2", and I'm not comfortable with any bench deeper than 24". Also be aware that a 36"-deep bench is going to work as a much larger lever against the wall, and so can't be expected to carry as much loading as a 24" bench can carry. If you're really sure you really want 36", though... make the triangular braces at least 24" square. That'll take quite a lot more plywood - you can get only (16) 24" braces from a full sheet, and your 36" top will consume a full sheet leaving you with a 12"-wide strip of "waste" that can't be used for braces.


Yes, as @brhans says, that definitely looks like copper has been exposed, so there is no way to go back to the nickel/aluminum color. (Copper turns that color when exposed to vinegar.) I would personally try to use more vinegar on the non-pink parts of the knob to try to get the rest of the nickel/aluminum to "reveal" the copper and get a uniform copper color, since there would be no way to "restore" the nickel/aluminum.


How long can pressure-treated plywood be left wet?

Once you have built the walls with plywood installed & roof completed windows cut out & entry door framed, the wet treated plywood floor will start to dry up. Purchase a moisture meter, test each treated floor sheet until the meter shows low moisture. Then install 4x8 sheets for a finish floor, particle board or 3/4 ply untreated and whatever after that. You're good to go.


How much difference does hot vs cold air make with regards to an Aprilaire 600 furnace humidifier evaporation rate?

I ran the following tests with an ambient temperature of approximately 70 degrees F.  I measured the (hot) water flowing into the humidifier and the water flowing out of the drain to calculate the % evaporation in each case (there is a reasonable margin of error).

Furnace running in low stage.  Approximate air temperature coming from register is 120 degrees F.  Humidity was 25% @ 70F.  Measured 24% evaporation rate.
Furnace is off, fan running on low setting. Approximate air tempertaure coming from register is 70 degrees F.   Humidity was 25% @ 70F. Measured 19% evaporation rate.
Same setup as 2, but humidity was ~32% @ 70F.  Measured 14% evaporation rate.

Unfortunately, this indicates a large amount of water being wasted, especially with the heat off.  Aprilaire advertises that it uses 3 gallons per hour with a 0.7 gallon/hour evaporation rate (24%), which matches with my test for #1.


If the magnetic stud finder is showing response across a good part of the stud cavity then there is probably a metal duct in the wall. This could be a stove hood vent, a dryer vent or a heating duct.

If the magnetic finder is showing just a narrow range near where you drilled the hole then the item in the wall might be a metal pipe such as a sewer vent stack, an iron water pipe or an iron gas pipe. Since the first two examples would be pretty rare to use iron pipe I would put biggest odds on a gas pipe.

There is another possibility that you ran into a metal electrical conduit.


How do I remove a stubborn element from a water heater?

Using channellocks/pliers can fail because as you apply torque, the grip expands, causing it to slip. Adjustable wrenches do not have this problem, but still might fail due to torque being applied only to two points on the bolt head. You should be using a socket, which applies the torque evenly to all six sides of the bolt head. Hardware stores sell "cheap" thin-walled sockets made for water heater elements, which will likely work well for you.

Do a Google image search for "water heater element wrench" to get an idea for what these look like. I can't find a free image of one to insert here....

Another option would be to use a high quality socket and a long "breaker-bar", but this would be more expensive. The socket size is generally 1 1/2 inches.

If you continue to have trouble, try adding a little bit of penetrating oil (and then waiting maybe half an hour), or heat that area of the water heater with a torch in order to use thermal expansion to your advantage.


The first idea that comes to mind for me, if you don't want to do the floor mounted outlets, is to run the boxes like you would in an exterior deck.  Use weather tight conduit to exterior outlet boxes.  And put the entire circuit on a GFCI breaker.

Here are a few product links:

Conduit
T-Fitting
J-Box
Cover


Is it OK for air conditioning condensation to drip right next to the house?

I've read a few sources on this and there seems to be some argument on what the best practice is.  This thread at InspectorsJournal is similar and the conversation quickly shows that even most of these inspectors have different opinions when it comes to A/C drainage.  A lot of the difference though, is geographic location of the home, and whether the ground around the drain slopes away from the house or is flat.

The example in the image below if from the EPA in their guide for moisture control around the foundation.  Not all the guide will be useful and its not exactly your situation, but you can check it out here.

If the water is not running away from your foundation and sitting stagnant against the it, I would drain the water.  TodaysHomeOwner.com has a good article on possible solutions.  Though the topic is for a drain directly from an exterior A/C unit, the principles should be the same.

If you can't extend your 3/4" PVC easily, exterior hose clamps and hoses should be available at your local home improvement stores.  Most of clamps are stainless steel and should work fine.  Plumping departments should have hose by the foot that would work as well.


Honeywell home ventilation system with no c wire for thermostat. How can I substitute the g for the c without blowing a fuse?

I think you're out of luck, since the G wire passes through the ventilation control system.  You have to leave the G wire as a G wire, or remove/bypass the ventilation system. The easiest solution, would be to run a new 5 wire cable. Or don't use a fancy thermostat.

If you follow the G wire through the system, you can get a better picture of what's going on.

When the thermostat energizes the G terminal, the Gt terminal on the ventilation control receives the signal.  The ventilation control does whatever it does, and eventually energizes the Gf terminal. When the Gf terminal is energized on the ventilation control, the furnace receives the signal and starts the blower.

From what I can tell based on the images, this is what the whole system looks like.

On a side note. The installer that left that rats nest of wiring in the furnace, should be ashamed of himself.


No. It may support two aquariums without collapsing, but it will sag substantially. Adding legs in the middle would resolve that problem, but I'd also consider doubling the beams, front and rear. I'd have confidence in that setup as well (though you'll still probably see some sag).
Yes, the front and rear beams each carry half the load. This is a rare example of a very evenly-distributed mass.

Other notes:

It appears as though your upper bolts are very near the top edge of the beams. SPF (spruce/pine/fir) lumber of the last few decades is very soft and prone to splitting. It won't take much to rip those bolts out of the upper edge of the lumber. I'd leave at least 1" between the edge of the lumber and the bolt holes, or add two more in between.

SPF lumber can vary quite a lot in terms of strength and stiffness. By using a single beam front and rear you incur some risk that either the front or rear beam will sag more than the other, resulting in a twist in the aquarium. That's what breaks glass. With something like this, rigidity is key, not just strength.

Here's my 55 setup. notice that it really only has 4 primary points of contact, but they're in key locations and provide a flat plane of support.


how to test to see if a humidistat temperature sensor is working

I have an Aprilaire Model 55 TCH (Temperature Compensating Humidistat).  Do you have an ohmmeter?  This is what I found in my notes:

I'm thinking the sensors haven't changed between models.  I would measure it at the TCH to make sure there isn't any discontinuity between the sensor and the TCH.


How often should I wash my hands when cleaning the bathroom?

I generally wash my hands once at the end. I'm very conscious of keeping clean, but don't have any OC tendencies when it comes to germs. I'm not concerned about cross contamination while cleaning my bathroom. Ideally, the cleaning products are doing their job, and the amount of pathogenic germs around the sink, tub, and most of the floor are minimal. I'll use a sponge or scrub to wash the sink and bathtub first, then floor, and do the outside of the toilet and floor around the toilet last (I use a toilet brush for the inside). Doing it in that order prevents carrying any potential pathogens from the toilet to the sink where someone might set their toothbrush. I usually wear rubber gloves, but either way my hands are mostly just touching the sponge so they wouldn't be likely to cross contaminate anything.

I think in general people are a bit overly concerned about fecal contamination. A few weeks ago I caught my 1 year old daughter with cat poop in her mouth (gross!), I casually cleaned her hands with antibacterial wipes, and tried my best to wipe the inside of her mouth out. She is absolutely fine. Just an anecdote, but it at least proves that you're not guaranteed to have problems if you eat poop.

Just an anecdote, but hopefully it gives you peace of mind that you're doing a good job cleaning your bathroom and that you don't need to wash your hands multiple times throughout the process.


Typically when the freezer works fine but the fridge part doesn't get cold it's because the fan that blows the cold air from the freezer into the fridge isn't working.

If you are comfortable taking apart and reassembling the covering inside at the back of the freezer:

Unplug the refrigerator and look at the fan.
Is it jammed?  Does it turn freely?
If it looks okay, plug the refrigerator in.
Does the fan run?
If so, are the vents leading to the fridge part blocked?

Replacing a broken fan is easy enough, but, as with most replacement parts, it can be expensive.

For illustrations, see the manuals for your specific model on the manufacturer's web site.

There are also many YouTube videos showing how to replace the fan (e.g. Whirlpool).


Yes you can clean it up, but hopefully what is under it looks better that what you see now.

It looks like somebody's sloppy caulk job.


How can I support both floor joists and roof trusses while I replace wall framing below?

Assuming full access to both sides of the wall, I'd look at installing a temporary beam or wall tight to the inside face of the wall framing. It's a safe bet that you'll catch some of the truss heel there. It won't take much to carry the load for a short term, and you can rework the framing from the outside.

If the truss heels don't extend inside the wall, you may need to leg up from the beam/wall to the trusses. Simply screwing legs to the sides of the trusses would probably do, depending on the roof structure as a whole.

All this depends on factors that I don't have information about, though, some of which I've mentioned.


Makita impact screwdriver was dropped, now it doesn’t work. Prospects?

If it's brand new, take it back to where you purchased it and get another one. Makita has great warranties on their products. Don't try to take it apart or otherwise fix it or you'll void the warranty. Good luck.


Insulation from electric meter to panel is rotting

I'd echo the previous suggestions. To directly answer, either electrical tape, or they make a butyl tape that is 4" wide and would cover faster (Gorilla makes an Outdoor tape). The purpose there is to protect from further UV degradation and moisture incursion, with minimal abrasion protection of the conductors and insulation inside.

For long term, yeah, that should be in a conduit to protect from damage and inadvertent contact, I'm surprised that is passed code. The sheathing isn't meant for UV exposure outside and needs to be minimally protected from that, but because it's technically in a traffic area, should have a conduit from the structure to the box. Not expensive on parts, PVC would likely be acceptable, but even rigid would be meager for that length of run. You should pull new wire, but as it will be enclosed in a conduit, you would use separate connectors rather than a bundle. (Technically you could reuse the wires if they reach once separated from the sheathing, if they pass code requirements.)

The expense and time is having it inspected, as it would likely involve a meter pull and the inspect before popping your meter back in, and power company would likely need to re-tag the meter. (Hard to tell from the pic. If that is off of a sub-panel off the side of the meter, with a main in-between, then you may be able to avoid the above.)

And in some municipalities, once you modify in any way, you could lose the grandfathering of the prior NEC under which it was installed. A licensed electrician for your area would be the best source of info on this, this is only unlicensed opinion from vary stale experience in electrical contracting.


We can presume that the basin is watertight (both out and in). The only real concern, then, is whether the boyancy of the air in the empty tank will overpower the weight of your concrete (or the mechanical connection between the concrete and the basin).

If those aren't a concern, all should be fine. I imagine that the basin has edges and depressions that will anchor it well in the concrete.


How to wire a ceiling fan to a switch that controls outlet

You run a cable from the ceiling to either the switch or the receptacle. You then need to change the connections in the outlet, and if you route to the switch you will need to change those terminations too. If you route to the switch you will lose the switched receptacle.
There are so many actual ways to make the terminations at the receptacle that you would really need to post a picture of the wires connected to the receptacle to get advice which terminations to intercept.
But basically if you route to the switch you get a new receptacle and connect all the blacks to the gold screw (small slot) side of the receptacle, and the whites to the silver screw (tall slot) side. Then at the switch connect whites together and blacks to the switch.
If you run to the receptacle you can either reconfigure to eliminate the switched receptacle or not. This is where a picture is needed, but essentially you connect the new cable to the terminals or wires connected to the switched portion of the receptacle. You will need to concerned the code limits the number of wires in a box based on size of the cu. in. of the box. Gauge of wire is needed to calculate.
Edit. You should replace the receptacle, re-using stab back receptacles produces questionable results. You will also need a few new wire connectors (tan wingunts) and a 4" piece of white wire.
Turn off the power, connect all ground wires together and pigtail to devices.
At the switch where you ran the new cable connect white to white using a yellow or tan wire connector, and blacks to the switch.
At the receptacle box remove the white from the red wire connector, and all the wires from the old receptacle. Connect all black wires and a black jumper together in a new tan (or red) wire connector. Form a hook at the end of the black jumper wire (using a hole on the wire strippers) and connect to a brass screw on the new receptacle.
Connect all the white wires and the new 4" jumper together in a new tan (or red) wire connector, connect the jumper to a silver screw.


In reading your question, I think we are into that area of all the things we call "grounding" which are actually bonds, jumpers and grounded equipment. What you need to concentrate on is NEC Part III Grounding Electrode System.

I don't expect a DIY to know the entire section, but the highlights goes as follows. The entire GES needs to terminate at the first point of disconnect in your system. If you open up your panel you probably see a large #8 or #6 Bare copper conductor (the Grounding Electrode Conductor) attached to your neutral bus. This is where your cold water ground should be attached. You need to attache your driven ground rod to the bare conductor.

The driven rod you are proposing is known as a supplemental or secondary ground to the cold water ground so you do not need to install two or more ground rods. It may become the main ground if you water pipe begins to get cut up and replaced by non metallic water lines. The NEC recommends that you should use as many methods of grounding as you can to any system.

In order to help you visualize what I just said I have attached a generic drawing of a GES. Just ignore the Lighting Protection part.

Hope this helps and good luck.


Sink Hot Water Spigot Controls Shower Temperature

The issue was the mixing valve like was suggested in the comments. The contractor luckily listened to me and replaced it before starting the tile work. He said that he, "didn't think that was needed," and also said, "I am not a plumber". Thank you for all your help in the comments.


More than likely, you'll need a permit. The power company will have to disconnect the power for the panel change out and in most cases won't reconnect when the job's done unless they get an OK from the local AHJ. I've known local electricians that have pulled the meters without power company notice and have done the work. The problem is with the smart meters, the power company knows the meter was pulled and will notify the AHJ. Then it gets inspected, the owner or electrician has to get the permit and penalties are added and the owner might now have to get the meter can and riser upgraded. Check with the local guys first... this can really get hairy if you try for the shortcut.


How can I locate and repair a break in a circuit?

Locate the serviceable junction immediately upstream of nonfunctional outlet.
Establish which wires go to defective socket.
Switch off house mains and make safe.
Disconnect these upstream wires at the junction.
Disconnect downstream defective socket.
Using a long length of bell wire, attach it to the disconnected wiring at upstream junction, and bring the free end to the vicinity of defective outlet. Then with a continuity tester, check for continuity between upstream junction disconnected wiring and disconnected wiring from defective outlet.
This will establish whether a discontinuity exists in any of the wiring between upstream and outlet.
If no discontinuity exists, then the wiring is sound, and you need to then explore all wiring connections as described elsewhere in the other answers.
If one exists, then examine the suspected route of the wiring and look for a possible intrusion, a nail or screw, or evidence of one having once been there (a hole, or a repaired surface). That would probably be your culprit.
If you can expose the wiring in that area, locate the break, and contemplate an in-line splice at the fault. (This is what I did, with success, and the repaired area of decorative finish was small and easily disguised.)
Of course, if your wiring is within conduits, then the easy repair is to tie string (or replacement wiring) to the wires at the outlet then haul the wiring back to the upstream junction and use the string (if using) to install the replacement. Before hooking everything back up, conduct another continuity check to make sure the new wiring has no breaks.


How do I loosen my bathroom stopper pivot nut

Don't bother with all that, just remove the U shaped pipe (The Trap) which should be a pressure fitting that can be easily unscrewed without any tools. Most of the crap will be in that U part of the pipe, the rest you can get out by sticking something like a toilet brush or pipe cleaner up the exposed pipe.

BTW: Be sure to put a bucket under the pipe before you unscrew it, some nasty water will likely leak out.

As for that pivot nut, if you really want to remove it, it USUALLY is easy enough to unscrew with your bare fingers, but if it is rusted you can use a pair of channel lock pliers. If it is just spinning however, it may be all the way off the threads and you just need to pull it back. It is attached to a rod that pivots in the middle of the pipe. You might need to shake it a little to get it loose, it will also probably help to detach the rod that goes from the sink stopper pull to that nut since it will get in the way.


Yes, the maximum vertical threshold height is 7.75” at a LANDING, if it’s not an accessible unit. That is to say, from the top of the landing to the top of the threshold it can only be 7.75” max. (So, the distance from top of landing to top of floor must be less.) (See ICC 1008.1.6, Exception)
The distance could be zero, so your requested 4” is acceptable.
Btw, a landing is required to be the width of the stairway or door which ever is greater and a minimum of 36” in the direction of travel. (See ICC 1008.1.5)


c wire on a multi taco zone valve boiler

One of those transformer terminals is "R" the other is "C"
If the red wire joins to the thermostat "R"  wires then the beige wire is "C"
Thermostat wires should not be inside that junction box with the mains wiring,  get a new box for the thermostat wires.


Electric oven in the same plug as a microwave

Assuming you are in the US, and that when you speak of an electric oven you are referring to one of the electric toaster type ovens that sit on the counter. Is that correct? If so, you can used the same outlet for both, and convert it to a double outlet so you can have both plugged in at the same time. However, both devices draw a good bit of current when in use and if you try to use both at the same time you will most likely trip the breaker on the circuit.

Short answer, you can used the same outlet for both devices, but just not at the same time.


"Pocket screw" refers to the position and angle of the screw more than the type of screw. Screws used in pocket hole joints tend to be self-tapping, but are otherwise the same as any other screw with the same diameter, length, and thread coarseness. They can definitely be used in place of other screws.


Pools are more often hard than not -- even for the pros

Article 680 of the NEC covers swimming pools and similar constructions.  It's sadly one of the more complex articles of the NEC, and thus easy to get wrong, even for a pro.  Attention to detail is critical here as even relatively small shocks in a pool can lead to fatal electric shock drowning.

With that said, it's not an impossible DIY job, especially given the type of pool you have.  Your pool is indeed a storable type due to its fabric liner construction even though it exceeds the 42" depth limit otherwise set in the NEC -- this isn't clear due to definition conflicts in 680.2, but to interpret this as a permanently installed pool would cause a mess trying to apply several Code requirements (such as full equipotental bonding of the pool and surrounding ground) to this situation.

Your plan with the conduit is fine

Your plan with the PVC conduit is more than fine, and putting in an amply sized conduit (3/4" at a minimum) will leave room for future expansion should another circuit need to be run to the pool.  You will need to provide a switched receptacle fed from the load side of the GFCI you are installing though -- this is to meet the disconnecting requirements in 680.12.  However, while-in-use covers and non-metallic weatherproof boxes only go up to 2 gangs, switched GFCI/receptacles can't be wired to switch the receptacle off while the load terminals stay on, weather-resistant switch/receptacle combos aren't a thing to begin with, and modern GFCIs get grumpy when placed on the load side of a switch (you need to reset the GFCI every time you flip the switch on).

Given all that, I'd use a weatherproof double gang (FD) conduit box securely mounted to a post in the ground between 6' and 20' from the pool's edge and provide GFCI protection at the panel with a GFCI breaker -- one gang is a standard wall switch, while the other gang is a standard duplex receptacle wired to be half-switched by the wall switch.  This way, one half is disconnectable so that it can be used for the pool pump, while the other half provides power while the pool pump is disconnected (for lighting, maintenance, or uses unrelated to the pool).

The filter pump, then, plugs into this switched receptacle, and the whole double gang assembly is under a double gang while-in-use cover that also weatherproofs the switch.  Also, don't forget to drill a 1/8" drain hole in the bottom of the FD box so that what water does get in can get out, and so that pressures inside the box and conduit system can equalize with the ambient barometric pressure, reducing the driving forces for water leakage across the box and cover seals.

Last but not least, don't forget to slap a "GFCI Protected" label on the receptacle!


Is it necessary to use ceiling joists (ties) with conventional rafters?

Collar ties go on the top third of the rafters, and mainly hold the rafters to the ridge beam, they may or may not be required by local code, or may not be required if you use an approved metal connector like a Simpson rafter tie.

Rafter ties go across the bottom third of the rafters, in older construction they could be on the bottom half or bottom two thirds of the rafters.  They prevent the roof from flattening, and they're pretty much usually required unless the structure is engineered so the outward thrust is taken into account some other way.  For example some cathedral ceilings are made to be stable without rafter ties.  In most cases ceiling joists are parallel to the rafters and are installed in such a manner that they function as rafter ties.


Outlet has ground wire connected to neutral and I am trying to replace it with GFCI

The good news is that a properly installed GFCI effectively protects you not only from the ground faults that it is designed for, but also makes things so that the key use of the ground wire - to provide an alternate path for return current should there be certain types of failures in a device - will effectively be unnecessary because those same faults will also trip the GFCI. So safety-wise you'll be fine.
FYI, if you have a metal box, it may actually be grounded after all. You can test that by seeing if you get continuity between neutral and the bare metal box. If you do, then you can connect a ground wire to the GFCI receptacle ground screw and screw it into the box. And if the GFCI is "self grounding" then you won't even need that ground wire at all. But if you don't have that ground, you are still safe with a GFCI.
The key with a GFCI is to know which hot (black) and neutral (white) are LINE and which ones are LOAD. You have, as is typical, two hot wires and two white wires. One of those sets is coming from the breaker panel (line) and the other is feeding the next receptacle (load). If you know which is which, great. If you don't know:

Turn off the breaker
Separate the hot wires
Turn on the breaker
Using a non-contact tester like this one:

determine which black wire is actually hot. That is the LINE hot wire. The matching white wire is the load neutral wire. If you can't figure out which black & white wires are paired then it gets a little more complicated (but there are ways to figure it out).
Now that you have determined line vs. load:

Turn off the breaker
Connect the LINE wires only to the GFCI. The screws should be clearly labeled on the GFCI. (Hint: The LOAD screws are the ones that were originally covered with a piece of tape.)
Turn on the breaker
Test the GFCI - Test/Reset, plug in a device (lamp, radio, whatever) and Test again, etc.

If everything is good:

Turn off the breaker
Connect the LOAD wires to the other screws.
Turn on the breaker
Test the GFCI - everything should work now unless there is a wiring fault at one of the other receptacles.
Test the other receptacles.


Is this fluorescent light fixture a major electrical problem / fire hazard?

You didn't show the ballast, (the black boxy thing with all the wires coming out of it in the fixture) so my guess is that it went bad and some of the potting insulation around the coils of the ballast over heated and melted.  (Since I cannot see the whole fixture I'm just guessing about that.)  It looks like the black on the cover is a tar type residue but I really would not touch it.  It is sticky and a mess to get off.
I doubt anything was catching fire, but when it happened there would have be smoke and a really stinky smell.  If you smell the ballast you will see what I mean.  But back to the fire, I'm sure this has caused fires in a very few cases.
I would disconnect the power or turn the switch off.  The ballast has a thermal cut-off that would probably de-energize the ballast, but it still has power.
It can be fixed, but for a DIY'er it is easier to change the whole fixture.  To fix it you would have to wire in a new ballast and that would be 8 wires, where a new fixture would be only 3, a hot, neutral and ground.

If you do it yourself, make sure you turn the breaker off before taking the old fixture out.  Out of the ceiling will be either a black or red, a white and a green ground.  A new fixture would show you exactly where to put the wires.  If you have a friend that knows how to do this then get your friend to show you how so you can see what it takes.


Whole House Surge Protection at Main Panel

Several ways to do that.
Fit a surge breaker
Replace the Dryer breaker with a CHSPT230 breaker, which is simply an Eaton surge suppressor built into a 30A breaker.  The 30A breaker isn't for the surge suppressor, it's for any general 30A load. The point of that is to save you 2 spaces in your panel.
That means you'd install the CHSPT230 to replace your dryer breaker, or the CHSPT250 to replace your subfeed breaker (honestly the first one feels safer; dryers will always be 30A... but subfeeds might be upgraded, especially once you realize #6 wire can be breakered for 60A lol).
Your planned CHSPT2ULTRA device
Feed it from a 50A breaker, yes... except locate it right across from the main breaker.  Move the other breakers down.
Why? Because, check your label, but most CH bus stabs are only rated for 140A.  The 125A main, plus the 50A breaker across from it, is 175A on that bus stab.  Whereas surge suppressors flow zero power, except when suppressing surges of course.  So it is a good option for that limited "across from the main" breaker space.
By the way, if you want more spaces...
Your box is a "B" sized box, as stated on the label.  As you might guess, other breaker panels also use a "B" sized box. One is the CH16L125R, which is 16-space and makes full use of the knockouts on your cover.   One could be acquired, and its bus bars bolted up inside your panel, without the need to remove all the wires and tear the box off the wall.


Can uneven ACQ treatment be corrected on decorative objects?

Fresh Alkaline Copper Quaternary(ACQ) treatment leaves the wood very wet.  In a month of dry conditions (in the sun), they will dry out and be much less splotchy.  The green will eventually be gone, going to gray in 12-18 months.

I know you didn't want to stain, but consider a light 'cedar' tone to even things out, until the green fades.

Once dry (3-5 weeks), you can stain for a more even color (water or oil based, )

Part of the unevenness comes from a mix of end grain (very absorptive), face grain and knots (non absorptive).  Pre-treatment of the end grain (usually at the top of turnings) with a sanding sealer (25% finish, 75% solvent) will help the stain finish evenly.


Can you waterproof Luxury Vinyl Tile floors without grout?

In some areas, you can get away without having grout, but the tiles will be more susceptible to damage because grout (or something) adds strength to the floor (and keeps the tiles in place). You may have seen or heard about how some people make really tight fittings with beveled tile, and they don't use grout. This is more for areas that are onramental or where contact with water is unlikely.

In the bathroom, I think it's safe to say that you need something between the tiles especially because there will be water (on the floor). Another purpose for grout is to protect the underlayment from water... water damage could be summarized as swelling which can cause lifting/ungluing of tiles and warping and loosening of the wood and rotten/weakened wood or just plain mold and mildew. And yes, cleaning will be an issue without grout or something between the tiles.

There are alternatives to cement grout; you should search online for grout alternatives. Epoxy and caulk come to mind. If you don't put something in there, something else (dirt) will eventually fill in the gaps.

Edit- (based on the comment "my ex-husband already laid the tiles without spacing for grout")I don't like to promote products, but I'm not aware of any other silane vinyl sealers, so try a product called Infuze. Here's the technical data sheet. Like I said, it's a silane product that I think will work for this. It's kind of messy and smelly and dries quickly (so work as quickly); it will definitely seal vinyl seams. I think it chemically bonds to vinyl to create vinyl silane. It dries clear and doesn't discolor.


Teflon (plumbers tape) to seal hot water pipe leak from the outside?

No.  "Teflon tape" is used on the threads of joints, not to seal leaks outside of joints.  It's not adhesive like tape, so it wouldn't stick to the outside of the pipe at all.

If you don't know what you're doing, I'd bring in someone who does.  Based on the amount of corrosion, it looks like it's been leaking for some time. It could be as simple as tightening the nut, or it might require disassembly and reassembly (possibly with new parts).


Temporary window treatment options? (shades, blinds, curtains)

If fashion and sophistication aren't high priorities - in other words, if you're primarily interested in function and controlling the cost - dark-colored flat bed sheets are something to consider.
The existing cellular shades probably have some kind of metal box at the top of the window to contain their operating mechanism. If that box happens to be steel then you can use magnets to hang the temporary coverings. Otherwise, you might consider hanging with tension rods or removable adhesive brackets (3M "Command" brand hooks).
You might also consider something solid like a sheet of thin hardboard, foam insulation board, foam core craft board, etc. These have the advantage that they could be painted to match the wall or in other attractive ways. The panels could be trimmed to fit the window opening so that they stay in place without hardware of any kind. They could be easily stowed behind a sofa, in a closet, or elsewhere to get them out of sight during the day.


How can I locate the source of a washing machine leak?

I worked briefly for Sears fixing washers. A trick we used to find leaks was to put A sheet of newspaper under the machine until the leak starts. Then pull out the sheet. It will show you roughly where the leak is or where the water gets out, not always the same thing!


The leakage all over the freezer sounds like a bad solenoid valve on the water line. At least on my freezer it's located near where the water comes in, and is not too difficult to replace. There's probably a 'how to' page somewhere on the internet for your particular model.


How can I get my third floor radiators working?

No need to panic, it's probably pretty simple. It sounds like your system is full of air and just needs to be bled. You've probably bled all the pressure out of the system, so you'll need to re-pressurize it, then bleed the radiators again, then pressurize again, bleed again, until all the air is gone.

Look at your boiler, there should be a pressure gauge on it. It should have a green arc, and maybe a yellow ark before having a red ark. Most likely green will go up to 2 bar(29 psi). Right now the needle is probably on the low end of the scale.

You'll need to find your pressurization valve, and open it until you get some pressure. The pressurization valve is between your home's water supply and the boiler, all you need to do is open it until you get about 1.2 to 1.5 bar and then close it. If you cannot find the valve see if you can find the manual, or just ask a neighbor who seems handy. It's very simple and you shouldn't need to pay anyone to do it.

Be careful not to over-pressurize the system, turn off the pressurization valve before the needle goes into the red.


my tv goes black for a second when my fridge goes off

did you checked your earthing connection is proper or not ? This can cause an issue.


Why won't the arbor lock engage on my Ryobi circular saw?

Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I tried the screwdriver but the blade still turned so I knocked it on the bolt with the handle of the screwdriver and that did the trick.
Holding that engage button down is hard for small hands so I am sure I will make this mistake again.
Thanks again.


Open Limit Switch on Trane Furnace: How to fix?

The high temp limit switches usually have a manual reset button that needs to be pressed to reset. I would try a reset it may have been a fluke that it tripped, if the reset dosent trip again it is probably fine. If it trips again you will want to verify the exhaust is clear, and the fan is freely spinning (some do need oil at each end to lube the bearings) low air flow on a high efficiency system can overheat the fire box.


How many subpanel breakers can a single piece of main breaker/bus support?

In the US, part of the panels ratings are the maximum current for a single bus stab.  Many panels say on the label not to exceed a certain current level on a single bus stab.  Most residential panels are double row so a single bus stab feeds two breakers, one on the left, one on the right.  The sum current these breakers supply can't exceed the bus stab rating.

There are other ways to feed a subpanel.  If your panel has or can be fitted for feed through lugs, you can feed the subpanel from those lugs.

The NEC has feeder tap rules that allow you to tap the feeders for a subpanel without overcurrent protection - normally a big no-no - within certain limits.  The feeder tap rules outline these limits - distance limits, running in conduit, etc.

Another option may be to change out the panel "guts" with a retrofit interior kit.  With these kits you remove and replace the bus, lugs, etc. If Siemens makes a retrofit kit with a bus compatible with your breakers, you could replace the guts and use your Siemens breakers.  However you'd have to replace all the breakers in the panel with Siemens breakers as well.


A more thermally efficient house - can I block up vents in my brickwork?

No, you cannot just block those air vents.

If you do you will cause condensation problems.

You need to investigate some cavity insulation systems - which would be more effective with your money compared to the triple glazing - think about the area of the walls and the areas of the windows. Whatever system of insulation is used, there must be some compensating air ventilation - good windows tend to have small air vents built into the top of them for exactly this.


How can I attach a 2x to a deck joist to give more room for stair stringer?

I attach the 2x6 right to the face of the 2x10 joist. With an 8" rise you will have 2.5" to attach it too.  I use alot of nails and a few ledgerlock lags. I also always double the outside joist. I never had an inspector question it. If the bottom your steps are firmly attached by burying posts the stairs can not fall down.


Electric shock - was I stupid, unlucky, or a combination of both?

The paranoid way to use a non contact voltage tester is:

Test that outlet shows as live
Flip breaker
test that outlet shows as dead
Test a different outlet that should still be live

The last step is what would have saved you a shock here - its to check that your tester didn't die while you were flipping the breaker, and that you haven't done anything silly like forgetting to turn it on.

Though if it were a loose connection you still could be very unlucky and have it pass all those tests with the outlet still live.


Hmmm. Pour water to activate it sounds like a Jet pump. Replace it with a submersible pump (Two-wire is more reliable than 3-wire in the modern era, I think - not to mention the wire costs less and on the comparable models I was comparing could also be one size smaller.)

Jet pumps are a holdover from a bygone era when electric motors were much less reliable, and are both troublesome and shockingly inefficient (power in compared to water out) .vs. a deep well submersible pump.


Can I plaster over metal lath without a backing material?

Yes you can; however, I would recommend at least stapling craft paper/tar paper across the stud bay behind the lath to minimize loss of plaster through the mesh.
Make sure the lath is stretched tight.


It is a sweated valve with a screw on attachment for the toilet connection.
Rather than try to remove it, I'd buy a second one; they are typically quite cheap. With a helper available, use a giant wrench to try and break the valve free.  If the valve breaks, turn off the water; if it moves, great.
If it doesn't break free, take the handle off and then take the packing / valve mechanism out by unscrewing the front hex net and removing the valve innards.   Replace them with the parts from the donor valve.
If you get lucky, you'll save the time necessary to desolder, clean, and re-solder a valve.


How do I fix a shutoff valve that isn't opening?

From the way you describe it, it sounds like it's a regular gate valve.  You might be able to repair it as you describe by removing the packing nut and replacing whatever is broken or stripped out inside.

The only exception to that would be a ball type valve, but those will just have a handle that makes only a 1/4 turn.  Those generally aren't repairable, but then again they almost never fail either.

Personally, I would just remove and replace the gate valve with a good ball valve.  Gate valves have a tendency to rot out or seize up from lack of use.  I actually had one once that disintegrated in my hand when I tried to turn it off (spraying water everywhere and making a nice mess).  Ball valves are just much more reliable.


Hot Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve Hissing and Discharging Water after Draining Tank

Sometimes when you open older valves, they get stuck open. If you can't get the valve to reset, you'll have to replace it.


Heating issues with slab foundation 50 year old home

A quick and cheap fix is a warmer pair of socks.

As MDMoore313 says, the ceiling is not an ideal place for a heat register since the warm air will tend to stay at the ceiling. I can only speculate why your contractor installed them there: possibly as a cost-saving solution because access was easier or there was existing AC ductwork?

You may be able to mitigate the problem with a couple carefully placed fans to circulate the warm air off the ceiling. You want them on low speed and not directed at people, or else they will have a chilling effect. A ceiling fan blowing UP would be perfect for this situation, but even a small adjustable fan like a Vornado would probably help a lot.

You also mention that you can "feel the cold come in". Do you mean there's a draft? Getting your building envelope as airtight as possible should be your #1 priority. The most efficient furnace in the world is useless if all that hot air leaks out of your house. A tube of caulk or can of spray foam will pay for itself 100 times over if you can plug up any leaks.

If you have the budget for it, an energy audit may be worthwhile. The furnace is just once piece of the system. In particular, a door blower test or thermal imaging scan may help you identify areas that would benefit from extra sealing or insulation, which would both save you money and make the house more comfortable. Your state and/or utility company may offer free or subsidized energy audits.


Can dryer ducting be placed near gas line?

Canada may have different rules but it is fairly common to see dryer exhaust vents routed next to gas lines in a garage normally the vent is really not that hot.


Ants, and particularly carpenter ants, in wooded areas with plentiful food will be ubiquitous. If your property is sufficiently wooded it's likely that there are multiple colonies.

Carpenter ants are crafty, too. They are also hardier against poisons and pickier with baiting than other ants. When we had a problem with them I asked a few entomologists I know about their control. Their recommendation was that you must use multiple poison bait types. Carpenter ants will take protein (granules) or sugar (gel) baits based on their mood and the needs of the colony. You should supply both, regularly, around areas they frequent and around your home.

Look for products featuring Abamectin such as Advance Carpenter Ant Bait (that's "advance", not "advanced")

In sugar/gel baits look for products featuring Fipronil such as MaxForce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel

These products worked very well for me after vigilant application for a few weeks.


Is there an alternative and less toxic way to clean an oven than using oven spray?

If you have a self cleaning oven you can use that cycle. It heats the oven up to a very high temperature (600-700 degrees I believe) for about 5 hours which basically burns away anything that's caked on the inside.


Cleanng a brush used for water-based paint, with soap or not?

I get observably better result with dish detergent - less partially dried paint bits left stuck in the brush.

Detriment, if any, of very hot water might depend on brush construction. I doubt it would "dissolve the hairs" but it might damage some of the plastic bristles typically used for latex paint brushes. I prefer lots of water to particularly hot. I start rinsing cold (usually at the outside tap) and move to warm water and soap inside after getting the bulk off outside.

Extremely thorough rinsing is required whether or not you use soap. I normally do a crude rinse, work some soap into the bristles (with dilute paint still in the brush), and then proceed to the serious rinsing. If any color comes out of the brush, it needs more rinsing. If your rinse procedure is thorough enough to get all the paint out, it will get all the soap out. If it's not, you might as well use disposable brushes and not bother washing them at all.


How do I polish brass with household ingredients?

You can soak the candlesticks in vinegar, then scrub.
If you want a little more aggressive treatment, dissolve some salt in the vinegar. That'll generate a little hydrochloric acid, which'll take the pH down a bit and clean more quickly.
Some folks swear by a paste of vinegar, flour, and salt. I've never used that mix. I've never had to.


What's the bracket used to fix a kitchen faucet called?

This is from an automotive store but it's the same thing: retaining washer.

(source)


The IKEA Maximera drawers are a special order version of Blum's Tandembox antaro line. Blum's name is stamped on the drawer slides.  They appear to be almost identical.

There are a couple videos on YouTube, where people show that they have removed the soft closer on other types of IKEA drawers (not SEKTION) , and used the IKEA push to open unit mounted to the sidewall instead.

Looking through the Blum catalog, they offer a push-to-open accessory branded "Tip-On" which they sell a version for Tandembox drawers.  It appears to mount under the drawer near the front of the slide.  It may just attach to the the Maximera, hard to say.


Can replacing LED light bulbs cause electric faults somewhere else in the house?

It was indeed a coincidence, the wall switch was mechanically jammed - a bit for force nudged it back into place. Thanks all.


If you can not find the source of the odor or want a temporary/permanent fix try using a charcoal filter in the cold air return of the furnace. I use a filter from Home Depot or Lowes called a "web absorber" model#FPR-5 at about $12.00. It is a 20"X25" cut to size filter that I used to replace the pre-filter in my electronic air cleaner. My wife is like you in that she can smell a "flies fart" at 10 miles. I have been using them for about 15 years and she is happy and so am I .


As a R.R.C. and roofer for over 25 years, this doesn't surprise me. Anyone with a pickup truck and a ladder calls himself a roofer.
This is wrong, if they eliminated vents they should have replaced the sheathing. An opening up to 4"x4" can be covered with metal, but anything bigger requires re-sheathing to eliminate a fall hazard. Also the nail pattern should be evident. Thinking you need to call an attorney. If he did this he isn't reputable so it stands to reason he won't back up his work. Always check references and reviews of your contractor. Check with the BBB to see if there are complaints. Look at their work!! Drive by a couple of their jobs, talk to homeowners if possible. Not only end result is important but being done without damaging your property and in a timely manner is just as important.


Heat and water safe material for internal dishwasher repair

The recommended, long term method
There are quite a number of places on line that sell repair parts for all types of home appliances.
It will likely be easier to purchase and install the proper replacement part than to attempt to repair a part.
Using your favorite internet search engine, look for

replacement parts <make> <model>

Where <make> = Whirlpool, or GE, or Bosch (as appropriate), and <model> = xyz, or pdq, or alpha123soup-b as listed on your machine.
and you'll probably come up with 4* options right off the bat!
*number guaranteed to be correct for as long as it took me to type it.

The short-term quick fix methods
Since the OP has indicated that he's looking for a short-term repair before replacing the appliance...
All the big-box home improvement stores stock all sorts of miracle leak stopping tapes and wraps that will work on anything from glass to plastic to metal to cement and more!!! (As seen on TV!™) You could probably even pick some up at your local 24-hour superstore while you're getting groceries.
It seems like this would be a good time to try one out and see how close it comes to the claims on its package. If one doesn't work very well, try a different brand. I've never had need to use any, so couldn't make a recommendation.
If you wanted to be really solid, but spend a bit more money (or maybe not), and can get that pipe out of there, a rubber coupling (sometimes known as Fernco connector) should be more than sturdy enough to hold in the pressure and, for only a couple of years the rubber should take the heat, as well. It might not last much beyond 2 years, but that's all your looking for.


How can I fix a table top that I spilled air freshener on?

I did this once. I didn't notice it came off until I wiped it off.

I just sanded the whole top of the table until it was bare wood and re-stained it and added a polyurethane on top. Looks new.


Why doesn't AC equipment come with dehumidifier only option?

The coil on a good dehumidifier is SIGNIFICANTLY colder than the coil on a typical air conditioner.

A typical central AC unit is configured so the air coming off the coil is approximately 20 degrees (F) colder than the air entering the coil, and tends to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 52-55 degrees (F).

As the air passes over the coil, water below the coil temperature's dew point condenses onto the coil and drips off into the drain pan. When 52F air at 100% RH warms to 72F, its humidity falls to 50%. If it rises to 80F, its humidity falls to 38%.

HOWEVER... if your goal is 72F air that's drier than 50%, or 80F air that's drier than 38%, you need a colder coil. To get 72F air down to 30%RH (or get 80F air down to 23%), the coil temperature needs to be ~39F.

(For more info, Google 'psychrometric chart')

This is why cheap dehumidifiers throw off a lot of heat, but still can't seem to get the room much below 50% RH... and why most typical central AC systems feel clammy at temperatures below 74F. As the temperature falls, they become incapable of wringing enough humidity out of the air to make it feel dry.

This is also why most window air conditioners leave the room feeling humid at ANY temperature... they just don't get cold enough to properly dehumidify the air, especially at colder temperatures.

This also reveals a nifty hack you can do with some central AC units to radically improve their humidity-removal (at the expense of significantly higher power consumption, and a possible risk of freezing the coil if you aren't careful). If you slow down the air moving over the coil (by reducing the speed of the blower fan), the coil gets colder, and more humidity gets removed from the air.

If your central AC has an "ECM" type motor, read its service manual carefully... especially the part about low-voltage/control wiring. There's an EXCELLENT possibility that it has a jumper/DIP switch/terminal (probably marked "Dh", "DEHU", or "Dehumidistat") that's normally closed, but when open will reduce the blower speed to ~80% of normal. By removing the jumper and opening the contacts, you can get the humidity a good 5-10% lower that you'd otherwise be able to achieve.

On SOME systems, particularly Carrier/Bryant with "PerfectHumidity", there's another option... if you close "red" to "yellow" (powering up the condenser) while leaving green (blower fan) open, it'll reduce the blower speed to 60% of normal. Normally, this mode only gets unlocked if you buy their expensive custom thermostat... but it's fun to play with if you're aware of its limitations. Namely, in that mode, your system will probably run 100% of the time for hours and hours whenever the temperature gets much above 90F. Latent-heat removal is nice, but when it's REALLY hot outside, sometimes you have to sacrifice a bit of latent-heat removal for brute-force sensible-heat removal. You're also at extreme risk of having the coils eventually ice up after a few hours of running like this... the coil gets so cold, and the air is so humid, eventually the condensate starts to freeze in place on the coils before it even has TIME to bead up and drip off into the pan.

I believe Thermostats like Ecobee and Nest support the 80%-vs-100% mode on systems that are capable of it, but AFAIK, only Carrier's proprietary thermostats properly use "Super-Dehumidify" mode.

Aside from being able to achieve extreme dehumidification, the reduced-speed modes serve another purpose: they allow you to extend your running time on days when it's humid, but not particularly hot. This is where Carrier's "Super Dehumidify" mode REALLY shines... on a cold February day when it's 62F outside, rainy, the AC hasn't cycled on for more than a few minutes at a time all day (because it's technically 72 inside), and the humidity is becoming oppressive, 20 minutes per hour in S-D mode can work miracles for dehumidifying your house.

Just to add an additional disclaimer, there's another factor to consider when attempting extreme dehumidification using central AC alone. Modern evaporator coils (the part that cools the air as it passes through it) have significantly denser cooling fins than old units did, which combines with the surface tension of water to leave the coil a lot "wetter" than they used to be on older systems. If your system is programmed for maximum energy-efficiency & keeps the blower running for 90 seconds after turning off the compressor (the EnergyStar-mandated default), half the water that was pulled out of the air by the coils is going to get evaporated right back into the house. To prevent it, search your air conditioner's service manual. If you're lucky, there will be jumper settings on the circuit board (or in the installer menu, if you're using a proprietary communicating-type thermostat) to delay turning on the blower fan until a few seconds AFTER the compressor starts and the coils become cold, and to eliminate (or at least, reduce to something like 5-10 seconds) the delay before the the blower turns off after shutting off the compressor.

The phenomenon of having the coil freeze during extended run cycles is well known, and is the reason why heat pumps have an explicit 'defrost' mode. Grossly oversimplifying, a heat pump heats a house by air-conditioning the outside and dumping the waste heat inside. Running a heat pump (in heating mode) for hours and hours at a time when it's already cold & humid outside is basically the same situation as running an air conditioner at low blower speed with cold, humid air for hours and hours at a time. The difference is, with heat pumps, it's expected to happen, and they're designed to mitigate it. Most home air conditioners AREN'T designed to deal with running a supercold evaporator with slow, humid air for hours and hours at a time, so they'll ice up if you aren't careful. My advice: if you're making your own thermostat and decide to run the blower at reduced speed, have it kick the speed up from 60% to 80% after 15-20 minutes, and have it kick the speed up to 100% after 40-60 minutes. The algorithm can definitely be improved upon, but this simple logic will generally be good enough to prevent coil-freezing if the system is working properly.

Also, note that contrary to marketing propaganda, a dual-stage compressor will NOT necessarily give you better EXTREME-humidity-removal than running a conventional single-stage compressor with the blower at reduced speed. As noted, latent heat removal uses a LOT of energy... if your goal is 72F @ 32% or less, running the compressor at low-speed might not actually get (or keep) the coil cold enough to SUSTAIN that kind of intense humidity-removal. If your system won't allow you to reduce the blower speed enough when the compressor is running at low speed to get the coil below 40F, you might very well find yourself having to run the compressor at regular speed and just cycle off the compressor and blower the same way you would with a single-stage system to achieve extreme dehumidification.

In any case, achieving extreme dehumidification with a central AC alone almost always requires the use of a homebrew thermostat and controller (Arduino, RasPi, ESP8266/ESP32, etc) and a lot of tweaking, because it's basically the HVAC equivalent of overclocking a PC. It works... but you're officially on your own, as far as the manufacturer is concerned. And your electric bill WILL reflect your extreme dehumidification habit. Operating your AC at 80% normal blower speed will probably increase your summer electric bill by at least 25-50% compared to what it would be if you endured the higher humidity. On the other hand, it's REALLY nice to enjoy a 72F 28% anti-sauna when it's 96F and 95% outside. ;-)

Also... to answer the original question, some manufacturers DO have add-on modules to dehumidify without cooling. For example, Lennox has a module that sits between the evaporator coil and air duct & can be switched in to use the waste heat from the evaporator coils warm the air after cooling it when operating in "dehumidification" mode. In a climate where your house would often be colder than 70 degrees even if you turned the AC off and left the windows closed, it might be worthwhile. In a climate like South Florida, it's probably unnecessary, and simply reducing the blower speed to 40-60% normal and running for 15-20 minutes per hour would probably be good enough to dehumidify without significantly overcooling the house.

Update: there's another potential snag... condensation on or inside the ducts and/or register grilles. The problem is that when you're relying exclusively on cooling to dehumidity, the dew point of the air in your house will NEVER be lower than the temperature of the coldest air coming off the evaporator coil. So... you're pumping extra-cold air into your ducts, which (depending upon how much insulation you have) will eventually become as cold as the air flowing through them (though if you have good insulation and no leaks, might take a few hours of continuous running to happen). Meanwhile, the air elsewhere in your house has steadily become warmer and picked up moisture from people breathing, coming in when you open a door, etc, so its dew point will be warmer than the air coming from the coil.

This is a major reason why COMMERCIAL HVAC units "reheat" the air by a few degrees before sending it into the ductwork... to ensure that the air in the ducts is "always" at least a degree or two warmer than the dew point of the air surrounding the ducts. You don't necessarily have to heat the air a LOT... even a degree or two of reheat might be enough to banish 99.8% of sweating ductwork if your average duty cycle is below 60% (ie, if an average cycle consists of 20-30 minutes of running, followed by 20-30 minutes of resting).

The main thing is, if you end up with sweating ducts, try to avoid allowing the temperature to swing by more than a degree or two between cycles. The greater the swing, the longer the subsequent cooling cycle will be. The longer a cooling cycle runs, the colder the surface of the duct will eventually become, and the greater the likelihood that it will become cold enough for condensation to form.

If only the register grilles "sweat", you MIGHT be able to mitigate the problem by replacing metal grilles with plastic ones (ideally, with a hydrophilic coating)... the plastic won't get quite as cold, the coating will cause any condensate that forms to form a molecule-thick film spread over the surface instead of beading up, and hopefully that thin film of water will evaporate away quickly once the cycle ends and before the next one begins.

To some extent, ALL ducts carrying non-reheated air are going to sweat at least a tiny bit occasionally (say, for a few hours when recooling the house after something like a hurricane prevents the system from running for a few days). Good insulation can prevent most of it, but it's still a good idea to try and locate the ductwork someplace where rare drips of condensate can evaporate quickly without damage. Put another way, try to have something BESIDES drywall directly below the ducts (like Hardiebacker). It's a case where "a difference in quantity becomes a difference in kind".

Put another way, don't expose yourself to single points of failure. Seal and insulate your ducts well... but don't delude yourself into thinking it's going to completely eliminate the condensation problem. It won't. There's just no getting around the reality that ambient air whose dew point is higher than the temperature of cold air in the ducts WILL result in condensation someplace where warmer humid air comes into contact with a colder surface.

You can mitigate it actively, by warming the air slightly before blowing it into the ducts and/or dehumidifying it independently of the air conditioner, or if the amount of condensation is very minimal, you might be able to mitigate it adequately by just ensuring that when it happens, it'll drip someplace where it won't cause harm.

Also,  take this as a cautionary tale if you're fantasizing about redoing your home's ductwork using exposed spiral duct to give it a loftlike ambiance. Spiral ductwork requires flawless sealing, excellent insulation,  plastic grilles, AND some form of reheat or additional dehumidification to completely eliminate visible  sweating... especially if those ducts are ANYWHERE near a door leading outside, a bathroom, and/or a kitchen... or if the interior isn't well-sealed and insulated from humid outdoor air.


The answer is fully dependent on:

Whether the location is subject to physical damage.
Conduit fill (for the 3/4" size) and planned amperage of the circuit.

For item 1, flex conduit cannot be used where subject to physical damage.

From NFPA-70:2014 (2014 NEC):
ARTICLE 348
Flexible Metal Conduit: Type FMC
348.12 Uses Not Permitted. FMC shall not be used in the following:
(7) Where subject to physical damage

"Subject to physical damage" is subject to the inspector's opinion since the NEC does not explicitly define these terms, so I would recommend consulting with them.
Generally, wiring at a height less than 8 ft is an unwritten convention that is typically considered subject to physical damage p(rovided there are no other surround protections/enclosures/guard strips and then you're back to the inspector's interpretation).
For item 2, once you have selected the wire size appropriate to supply the required current on the circuit, you will need to calculate conduit fill to determine the allowable size of the conduit/raceway (refer to Informative Annex C of the NEC).


Water seeping out of grout in exterior corner of tiled shower curb

This is not an answer, per se, but so far has solved the issue.

I called the original tile installer to take a look.  He pulled the tile piece that is to the left of the leaking grout corner.  We inspected the liner and anything else we could see.  The leak must have been very slow because there was minimal damage inside--no wood rot.

The exact cause of the leak could not be determined, but the tile guy sealed the liner edge behind the curb corner's vertical and horizontal tile pieces with some kind of rubberized sealant (not silicone) to make a water dam.  Then used extra tile and grout mix we had to make it look new again.  So far it is holding up.  Then again, the leak is very slow.  Hopefully, I'm not back on here in a few weeks or months with a different answer!


troubleshooting smart switch installation

I think you hooked up neutral correctly. Stay away from the 3-way switch.

Your assumption that cable 2 comes from the panel may be incorrect.  Mechanical switches are direction agnostic, they don't care which is supply-hot and which is switched-hot.  Smart switches do.  The switch needs supply hot on its (presumably) black.  Then, it will power up even without hooking up the red wire.

So I would test the black wire to either one of the blacks coming in cable 1 or 2.  When the smart switch powers up and becomes recognizable, declare victory and hook the red wire to the other black.


If both the varnish and the stain are in the same solvent, then mixing should be fine. (The labels will specify either water or mineral spirits cleanup.)

Don't be tempted to not stir the varnish before use, as there can be flatting agents that collect in the bottom.


How should the top edge of an asphalt shed-type roof be finished?

That's at the PEAK of a shed roof, true? If that's the case, what you have amounts to a ridge cap, but nobody I know of manufactures premade ridge caps for shed roofs (too many different possibilities, not enough market), so the builder used "drip edge" or flat flashing (bent around the peak) to function as a ridge cap.

There really aren't very many good alternatives to that situation, so what they did is actually pretty common on the peaks of shed roofs. They really SHOULD have tarred over the nail heads, though.


The inlet on my water heater is leaking.

If it uses flexible connections, all you need is two adjustable wrenches and a set of supply lines. Do them both, even if the other one doesn't leak yet. Braided steel is a lot easier to work with than the corrugated copper type.

You could try plumber's epoxy putty, but you'd only be delaying an inevitable catastrophic leak.

If it's hard piped and you do call out a plumber, specify that you want it re-done with flex (so that you can DiY next time).

Some thought should be given to the inspection and replacement of your dielectric fittings (or the rectification to the complete lack thereof).


Switching a 240 volt 3 wire to a 250 v 2wire

Do not modify your generator!
You need to make a short adapter cable.
Your generator surely has a NEMA 14-20 or NEMA 14-30 socket.  Identify which one it is (post a pic and we can help).
Your generator surely has a NEMA 6-50 plug, but confirm that (ditto).
So you need an adapter cable with the reverse: a NEMA 14-xx plug and a NEMA 6-yy socket.
You can go online and somebody will sell it to you.  Those generally fall into 2 categories:  Bubba in West Virginia builds them to order out of quality parts from the electrical supply house, or the Chinese make them on their fancy injection molder, but they're rubbish.
Or you can step into Bubba's shoes and build your own, with parts from a proper electricacompetent electrical supply house (NOT big-box), and buy three things:

A NEMA 14-xx plug, with xx matching the size of your generator's socket.
2 feet of #12/3 or #10/3 cordage.  This will be black white green.  The size matches the xx size of your plug: 20=#12 30=#10.
An inline NEMA 6-50 socket made for cordage.

Get em together at a real electrical supply, and the competent clerk will make sure the strain reliefs fit the cordage... do not use scrap Romex for the cordage, it won't fit the screws or the strain relief.  It's only a couple bucks to do a proper job of it and have an adapter that will last.


Let's start with the easy answer. If your installation manual is calling for a 40A circuit for your cooktop and you should install it per their directions. This is because the manufacturers engineers have determined that the recommended circuit is necessary for the cooktop to operate properly. Failure to do so could void the manufacturer's warranty if there is a problem with the cooktop.

Now the more confusing part. NEC Article 220.55 covers calculations for residential cooking appliances and it does allow derating of these circuits. For example if you have a range rated at 12K you can install a circuit rated for 8k. You can run a single circuit for more than one cooking appliance and tap the circuit for the reduced load of each appliance. I have to say that it is one of the most confusing and complex calculations mentioned in the NEC.

How can you be sure that what you have will work with your new cooktop?

You are on the right track by reading your manual and trying to determine the correct KVA to your cooktop, but what you really need to find is the Nameplate rating of this unit. It usually is not in your Installation Manual and it may be hard to find on the unit itself but it will be there somewhere. Another place to find it is to go online to the manufacturer and see if there is a specification sheet for the unit. On the nameplate you will find it's operating voltage and amperage or the required KVA. Then you will have to take that rating and calculate the demand from NEC 220.55. Personally I think that it needs to be supervised by a professional Master Electrician or Engineer or a very competent Journeyman.

Hope this helps, good luck and stay safe.


Is it possible to control my light and ceiling fan using both wall switches and a remote?

Lutron has an answer to your question

As it turns out, Lutron, at the time of this writing, has just introduced a fan control into their line of Caseta wallbox/remote capable controls.  I would use two Caseta controls side by side; namely, a PD-FSQN and a PD-5NE.  Note that they both require a neutral wire at the switch box to work (which may or may not be an issue with your wiring, we'd need photos of the inside of the switch box to know for sure), and rely on wall-mounting hand-held remotes (Caseta controls use Lutron Pico remotes) for multi-way control, if that is acceptable for your application.


Alarms on Doors that have Access to a Pool

Not the answer you are looking for, but:
Loud Alarms are What You Really NEED
Assuming that the premise is a sound one, that people need to be warned of unexpected/unauthorized entrance to the pool area, a loud alarm is the right answer, not an electronic notification. A few examples:

It is all too easy to ignore texts/notifications/etc. "If my boss/spouse/buddy texts me one more time about that project/trip/party, I'm gonna scream" followed by ignoring the next 30 minutes of little beeps by just swiping them away to look at "later". Kid wanders out...disaster.

A new cleaning crew comes in the day before your big pool party. One of them asks, "can I bring my 3 year old, I'll keep an eye on her, she's a really quiet kid" and you say "sure". You go out to pick up munchies. The cleaning person starts vacuuming in the living room. The kid wanders through the door (left closed but unlocked because the crew is cleaning "everywhere")...disaster.

You are out at the pool having fun. You hear a honk and go out front to greet the guests. He has the radio on in his car and you decide to listen to the last 2 minutes of the big game, radio blaring, watches/phones ignored (my day off, I'm ignoring texts), kid who was watching TV inside wanders out to the pool to find you...disaster.

You can argue whether any alarm is needed. But once an alarm is needed, an App won't substitute. Not when accident to disaster = 3 minutes or less in the water.
A number of people have pointed out that for a child even 3 minutes can easily cause major damage or even be fatal. I am not suggesting "up to 3 minutes and everything is going to be just fine" - quite the opposite, I am using that as a very short time period to indicate just how little time it takes - and therefore why an alarm on entering the pool area, hopefully a minute before falling in the pool is vitally important.
For those suggesting "put up the stupid alarms and then unplug/remove battery/etc. after the inspector leaves", please don't do that!.


Can I install required breaker in my electrical panel?

Can you install a new 240V breaker? Probably. It looks like the necessary two spaces are available on the bottom-right (the one space on the left side can only get you 120V without shuffling things around).
Pictures of that areas straight-on would be helpful, as would pictures of the panel front and the stickers on the inside left and right sides of the box.
Since there is no shut-off in this panel, it must be somewhere upstream - probably in the same box as your electric meter. You'll want to take a look and see what the amp rating of your feed is, as that could limit whether you could run this new load at the same time as all your other existing loads. Judging by the wires feeding the bus bars, you probably have 100A service to this panel.
For an outdoor receptacle, you'll need GFCI protection somewhere in the circuit - either in the breaker or the receptacle. Receptacle GFCI can be less expensive than breaker GFCI, but may not be available in the size you want. It's also not a great idea to mount sensitive GFCI electronics outdoors.
There are some other concerning issues in your picture:

No grommets/clamps around any of the cables entering the box. Without proper clamps, the cables may rub against the sharp edges of the knockouts until the insulation is cut and a short circuit occurs.

Probable missing handle tie on the breakers in spaces 5 and 7 (left side, below the double 30). Judging by the lack of visible numbers on those handles and the black and white load wires, those two are probably feeding one 240V load and used to have a handle tie. You don't want to be able to turn off only one leg to the load, as it creates a dangerous situation where the device appears to be off but still has live wires inside. A handle tie ensures you always turn off both legs together.

Probable missing handle tie on the breakers in spaces 15 and 17. Also, the wire is far too small to normally be on a 50A breaker (it looks like probably #12, good for 20A or maybe #10, good for 30A), although there are code exceptions for certain motor loads (such as air conditioners) that mean it could be a legitimate configuration.

At least two of the screws in the neutral bar have two wires. There should only be one neutral wire per screw. Grounds can generally be doubled up.

The orange cable should not be flopping out in the open air. It should be fastened securely, and protected from damage (e.g. covered by wall or conduit below a certain height, which it is surely below if the panel is mounted at a legal height).

The ground wire in the bottom-left corner of the panel (the one mostly wrapped in paper) looks like it isn't connected to anything.


How to seal gaps around door to prevent mosquitoes from entering?

I would suggest that you call a contractor to replace the door. You could go to Home Depot or Lowes or call a local window and door company to access your problem and give you a price to do the work. If the door itself is not the priblem then a more detailed description of the problem is needed.


Turned out to be the High Limit switch.  The switch had burnt out, which caused the burner not to fire.  Turns out when the limit switch senses the heat box is too hot, it shuts down the gas and forces the blower to continue so it will clear the excess heat. When the switch failed it always told the system that the furnace was over heated, so the burner would not come on and the blower would run constantly to try and clear the excess heat.

To trouble shoot this issue I used an ohm meter to test each sensor, to make sure it was open/closed as it should be.  Another way to test would have been to use jumpers to bypass the sensor all together, until the faulty sensor was located.


Proper installation of a three-way shower

I agree that the setup you wanted has been the way I have seen similar arrangements, and seems intuitive, but the product description for the mixing valve unit says "controls the water flow to your outlet of desire".

My thought is that a plumber who cares about pleasing his client would have asked prior to roughing it in, but I don't think you have any legal standing.

  These shiny chrome plated mixer valves do much more than adding a designer look to your bathroom. They are convenient and safe to use with a 3 Way diverter. One knob controls the water flow to your outlet of desire, the other controls temperature and the third control water flow. To protect you and your family from scalding these valves are fitted with leading Vernet thermostatic control. Pre-set at 38 degrees this system prevents any water above this temperature from leaving the shower, for further safety it is enabled with an automatic shutdown if the cold water supply ever fails.


Do LED lights require a special dimmer switch?

Do LED’s require special dimmers, It depends, with 9 lights there is probably enough of a load to operate properly (especially if they have worked fine for 2 years). If there was no glowing when turned off and flicker when new the lights are probably failing.
All the lights are in parallel so if they are all of a sudden operating at different light levels they may have been cheaply made and the drivers are failing.
It is possible your dimmer is not operating properly but with different light levels at the lights this points to driver failures
If you bypass the switch (power off) wire nut line to load and power on if the fixtures are dim that proves they are failing.
I suggest only purchasing DLC certified lamps and fixtures.
DLC stands for Design Light Consortium, DLC required a 5 year warranty so they might be slightly more expensive but that is better than them failing not long after warranty. Also get your lights and fixtures from reputable dealers like 1000 bulbs. Com or LEDMYPlace.com (I get most of my lights and fixtures for work and home here , no affiliation other than a satisfied customer and the very few failures I have had they promptly replaced.


What is the gap called between exterior wall and roofing?

In brick/masory homes the vertical slots are called weep holes.

Their purpose is to allow the rain water that soaks through the brick to come back out. From what I learned, about 10% of what gets on the brick passes through since the brick is porous. On the back side of the brick there is a drainage plane, or surface that has been traditionally tar paper nailed or stapled over the wood framing. The paper is lapped so the water as it collects goes over the laps and continues down where the through wall flashing turns it back out the wall through the weep holes.

7-28-2018 edit

I just re-read the question and seen I really did not answer the question at all. The horizontal gap is typically not there. as Lee Sam mentioned, counter flashing should be there, but I hope is still there deeper inside the recess.

For some reason the builder decided to set the brick on a steel lintel (beam of a sort) above the roof, instead of below the roof where this space would not be seen. If the through wall flashing allowed it, typical counterflashing could still be applied although there would be no backer for it. Backer would keep it in a vertical plane. As a mention counterflashing is used to cover the base flashing that is covering the tops of the last row of shingles.

This sketch is not the only way to do it, but it is the best way to do it, IMO. The problem is, the potential to damage the all important through wall flashing is quite possible (the black line behind and under the brick).

To simply fasten something on top of the shingles for the sake of holding something in place to hide the gap would also have a strong possibility of making leaks in your roof.


Is it worth of replacing central AC coil?

Ok if you know 100% it is the coil that is an easy repair. The refrigerant first needs to be recovered the old coil cut out and the new one installed. Coil cost 2 ton R22 ~300$  Plus recovery time and pumping the system down once the new coil is installed. Measure the amount of R22 returned to the system and add the difference for your ~4 lb total . The repair cost would be 1 days work the coil and a couple lbs of r22.
Dang the 8k and 10k prices sound crazy to me it is only a 1 day job ok possibly a day and a half if access to the air handler is not so good.  But I know R22 is going for 100 per pound 2 lbs plus a coil 500$ in materials ok a a little for the silver solder and flux but other than that the tech time maybe 100 /hr or so it depends,  you might get a guy that needs the extra day of work and gives you a onetime good deal. But those are ball park numbers you could work with so you have an idea.


Tandem breaker needs both thrown to break circuit. Incorrectly wired?

Intentionally wiring the two breakers together in the breaker box would be a really stupid (borderline malicious) thing to do.

My guess is that there are supposed to be two independent circuits, but someone has somehow unintentionally joined them together in a junction box or outlet box somewhere along the circuit.

This could be pretty complex. I would recommend having an electrician come check out the situation.

If I were solving this, here is what I would do:

Work carefully! It's a dangerous situation when you can't be sure the power is off. Assume every box you encounter is live. You'll want a contact-less voltage sensor.
Open the breaker box and verify that there are two 12/2 cables entering, the black wire of each connected directly to one lug on the tandem breaker.
Start drawing a diagram, including every switch and outlet involved.
Turn off both breakers.
Open a box that's affected, and disconnect the black wires from the device. Cap off the wires. I would start with the box that you think would be closest to the breaker box and first on the circuit.
Turn a breaker on, one at a time, and note which wires/devices still have power. This will help you figure out which wire heads upstream / downstream. Label the wires with numbers or descriptions (if you can write small enough) e.g. "From hall switch"
Repeat until you have the situation mapped out.
Report back here to tell the curious people what you found.


Voltage difference between sink, oven and dishwasher

My guess is there used to be a ground strap to the previous plumbing that was not replaced when the new, no doubt plastic, pipe was installed with the new sink.

Having said that, there must be a ground fault in one or the other.

Turn OFF the breaker to the stove and dishwasher and call an electrician ASAP.


the idea with a modern septic system is that the evapotranspiration bed uses up all the waste water so that none goes into the ground water. so deep clay will not be a problem, the water is supposed to ultimately go into the atmosphere, not into the ground.


What type of wire nuts are recommended for #6 and #8 wires for oven installation?

I had to join some #6 and #8 wires in a nut. Took a few minutes of looking, but I found a small 6-pack of nuts that said it would support up to two #6 wires. The only thing different about these is they're much larger than the ones you'd normally use. There's no real terminology to look for, but read the bags to find sizing.
There's nothing special about twisting I found. Both were stranded, but they easily wrapped around one another and the nut screwed on like any other wire nut.


How do I change light bulb in flush mounted fixture?

It turns out that the previous owner had 3 100 watt bulbs in a fixture only rated for 60 watt bulbs. This caused the paint on the metal to peel/adhere to the glass. It eventually fell off on its own since I left the bottom screw off.

One of the sockets was blackened from the heat, so all 3 of these things in my house are getting replaced ASAP.


How can I prevent water seeping up into my carpet?

I'm guessing you're in the UK, right? If so, the cause is probably rising damp. Likely your cottage has no damp-proof course between the foundation and the floor and walls. So moisture is simply constantly trying to push its way into your house.

The true solution is to radically improve the waterproofing and drainage of the cottage. This is probably not a DIY job; you'll need to hire professionals. In the UK there are a lot of people who can do this kind of work.

A cheaper solution would be to remove the carpet (bad choice for a non-waterproofed foundation in a wet and rainy climate) and replace it with something that's immune to the effects of moisture, like ceramic tile or stone. But damp-proofing the foundation is really the right solution.


How do you refinish a Corian countertop?

Some serious buffing is required.  Not just of the burn area.. but you'll need to buff the nearby surrounding areas as well.

Two options:

do it yourself cautious: experiment with automobile "rubbing compound" on it.. if it works on a small area, expand to the entire area.
do it yourself confident: sand with 800 to 1000 grit sand paper.. if it works on a small area, expand to the entire area.
hire someone: a corian professional

I do #3 in good times, #2 in bad.  Good luck.


How to fix loose box newel handrail post

To remove the post, I had to remove the trim piece under the handrail. It was held in with very fine brad nails and I had to wedge a putty knife in there to get it loose. That allowed me to remove the handrail from the post.
Once the post was free, I was then able to slide the post out. It was fastened with the keylock type post fastener. The fastener was screwed into the tread and 2x4 underneath and the screws had come loose. I tightened them, but I suspect they'll just come loose again.
I think the long term fix would be to use long bolts with a plate underneath to keep them tight.