Should I have the return line replaced when installing a new heat pump?

The size really would not be a problem, the 410 is a higher pressure system and that allows for smaller tubing but will take more refrigerant (not much).
I am not a fan of reusing parts, yes they can be cleaned but I have had friends come to me after a new retrofit failed in less than 2 years.  The cause of the failure new Poe oil mixed with mineral oil that was not cleaned completely. This has happened 2x that I know of , is the evaporator rated for the 410a pressures?
I would make sure they will warranty all work like I said the size won’t be a problem but will they use that to get out of a warranty claim?  Both my friends had systems retrofitted by hvac companies they only knew they cooled the house. Both companies used the existing equipment as the reason for failure , it won’t affect the system but if you re use anything make sure the system is covered by the warranty as installed.
To cover the system they may want to replace the line, don’t let that be a reason for them to deny warranty coverage but it would not be a problem in theory.


What siding material is available for a tiny house with metal framing?

Looking at older type mobiles, park models and even some of the newer tiny homes I have seen built.  A common out layer starts with a thin sheet of exterior plywood (really more like paneling or underlayment)  sizing between 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick.  Then skinned with tyvek or plastic and final covered with various exterior materials (aluminum, galvalume tin, fiberglass, or more wood).  With this sandwich method the cheaper wood reduces the thickness of the out material saving costs.

The final outside depends on what your seeking for looks, for instance you can buy a Tuff-rib(tm) panel galvalume protected and painted or coated cheaper then aluminum but very nice to look at.  Some go with wood look by using cedar panels again nice finish and durable if installed correctly, if you like a natural wood look.   Fiberglass sheets are not to bad and can be painted or wrapped for finishing.   I have even seen one trailered tiny on the road using pine shiplap siding (if installed properly a very cheap sturdy exterior).


the "electric noises" is very likely arcing.

If the other one works normally then the fix is to replace the entire outlet (the face plate is just a cosmetic cover).


3 hots, 3 neutrals, 3 grounds; so confused

Your switch is fine

The switch is fine -- it just needs to be wired correctly.  Keep the neutrals nutted together, and pigtail the ground to the switch's ground terminal (I have no clue why a black wire got landed on a ground screw in the previous configuration, but it was clearly wrong).  (You can strip your existing 12AWG white pigtail bare and reuse it for pigtailing the ground, BTW.)  Then take the feed (3) and the bathroom (2) black (hot) wires and nut them together to your black pigtail, which lands on one switch hot screw.  Finally, land the remaining black wire on the other hot screw.


If the smoke is enough to trip the detector, but not enough to be objectionable to you, then you might consider replacing the smoke detector. A photoelectric type may be less prone to cooking-related nuisance alarms. A heat detector definitely will not trip for cooking smoke. A change to photoelectric is pretty easy. Check with your local authority to determine whether a heat detector would be acceptable for the location.
If the barbecue smoke comes from the fuel (ie wood or charcoal) I'd consider changing to a propane or natural gas fuel.
I don't love the idea of blocking the make-up air intake -- it would be all too easy for somebody to forget to unblock it after cooking, particularly if they don't understand the purpose of the intake. That said.. The grille covering the make up air intake may be steel. If it is then a magnetic sign could be an option for covering the intake. These are sometimes sold for covering heat registers inside the house as well. Ordinarily one would have to get within reach of the grille to place the cover, but if you secure it with rings or something at one end, then you could probably use a stick of some kind to lift it into place and to pull it back down again after cooking.


What would cause my washing machine to stop at the rinse cycle and smell?

It sounds and smells like the pump that purges the water from the tank has failed. This could be due to bad windings on the motor, motor damaged due to excessive surges on the power line (perhaps lightening while the washer was running) or some object getting down into the pump and jamming it up so the motor overheats.

If the tank drains normally after the unit has been allowed to cool down then the problem may be in the timer unit that sequences the wash / rinse cycles. These timer units (particularly on older units before everything went electronic) also have a low power motor that can burn out.

The timing sequence controller in a washer also controls relay contacts and high power switch contacts that turn the motors and pumps on and off. Sometimes these contacts go bad and start to spark and burn. It is possible for the contacts to weld together and prevent the proper sequencing of the timer past a certain point in the cycle.

In either case of the issues involving the timer it usually requires replacement of the timer unit. This can get relatively expensive to repair so it is worthwhile to evaluate the age and condition of your existing unit so you can make an intellegent choice between repair and replacement of the unit.


To lap or not to lap underlayment over concrete

DO not overlap as it will cause a noticeable uneven floor when walking over the areas. We cut to size and tape where the underlayment meets.

Overlap the wall areas and once flooring is complete prior to baseboard installation, simply cut along the edge (leaving a 1/4"-1/2" overcut) and tuck  the underlayment under the sheetrock.

This allows an overlap of the underlayment edging and does not allow any moisture to touch the sheetrock, preventing an environment where mold can grow.


Vaulting ceiling and removing ceiling joists without risking the integrity of my roof system?

Yes, you can remove the ceiling joists and “vault” the room, but you have several issues: 1) unusual structural system, 2) loss of attic insulation, 3) heating

1) The existing roof joists are  supported by a complex set of ridge beam, intermittent vertical supports and a “strongback”. In order to remove the ceiling joists and vault the space, you’ll need to install temporary supports under all existing roof joists, remove the existing vertical supports under the ridge beam and then slip a NEW ridge beam in under the existing ridge beam. (This is going to be somewhat difficult because the existing ridge beam is slightly lower than the roof joists. The new ridge beam will need a notch so it can fit tight to the roof joists.)

After the new ridge beam is in place and supported with a NEW post at each end and each joist clipped to the beam, then the existing ceiling joists and temporary supports can be removed.

The new posts will need adequate footings. You may be luck, because the existing strongback probably has some footing under it at each end.

Installing the beam will be difficult because it could weigh 17 lbs. per foot (for a 6x12) up to 25 lbs. per foot (for a 5 1/8” x 18” glu-lam). Wiggling that into place will take some skill.

2) New attic batt insulation can be installed between each joists, but keep 1” air space between the insulation and roof sheathing for venting. (Be sure to add soffit vents and ridge vents in EACH joist space.)

3) consider how you’ll heat the space...ducts?


I have a Lennox too and I hate the filter situation with a fury of 1000 suns:

It's just sitting in the furnace against the return duct - previous owner left a VERY dirty one taped with aluminum tape that took me a long time to peel. I've been using masking tape. One of these days I'll find time to fabricate a filter box to sit between the return duct and the furnace.

So, I'm guessing from your pictures that you'd be in the same situation - inside the furnace, against the mastic'ed duct.


How are electricity cables taken up on the roofs of tho high apartment buildings?

Highly possible that one guy used a bow to shoot an arrow tied to end of a ball of string. As the arrow flew to the position of the other guy the string feed smoothy off the ball. In no time the two fellows had a length of string between themselves.

If it was a windy day then one guy possibly launched a kite out into the breeze. By running the kite out a good length the second guy was able to catch the kite string in hand.

In any case with the string between them then a light weight rope is tied to one end and the other guy used the string to pull the rope across the gap. The light rope is then used to pull across a stout rope.

Now you can guess that the stout rope, being strong and durable, is used to pull the electrical cable across between the buildings!!


Why does my shower diverter allow water to flow to the tub spout?

Sure sounds like the diverter needs fixing or replacement.

When the diverter is closed (sending water to the showerhead), it has to handle the full supply pressure.  When only closed two thirds, it sees significantly less pressure. Sounds like the force of the water, is pushing the diverter open. This allows water to flow out the tub spout, rather than being sent to the showerhead.

Depending on the make and model, you might be able to make adjustments, replace parts, or a full replacement may be required.


Can I use my old shower pan instead of a mortar base layer?

The existing drain assembly terminates at the height of the current shower pan.  Your proposal would require a drain extension to the new, higher shower pan.  This would require a smaller diameter fitting, inside the old drain, in order to extend the height of the new drain.  This would be practically difficult, if at all possible, because of the short lengths of pipe involved unless you're creating a "step-up" shower.  By the way, such a fitting violates code by reducing the diameter of the waste pipe (even though just at the shower pan).

To avoid the above, the old shower pan would have to be excavated, at the drain, to allow the old drain assembly to be removed and a larger fitting attached; into which the new drain would be fitted.

Note: raising the height of the shower pan will result in faucet handles and shower heads being lower than they are now.


There's an adjustable & replaceable valve behind your shower's handle(s). This likely needs to be replaced, since it won't just pop out of adjustment due to it not being mechanical, as in a broken spring or such. The quickest resolution is to call a Plumber to get everything back to proper operation tonight or tomorrow.


What is the name of this metal bar with holes at the ends?

(so far, other answers don't show something I'd use on a 2x4, hence this answer)

  Two of these can go around a 2x4, then bolts run through the holes ... Is there a common application where these appear?

"Straight Timber Connector" - for non-structural connections such as landscaping.

Smaller versions are usually called mending plates in my part of the world.

For structural applications involving vertical shear loads - like splicing joists - in buildings, you'd typically use something very different to that illustrated above. E.g. a "splice plate" or "nail plate".

As Isherwood noted, there are likely to be a variety of names for these types of connector.


How should I reduce humidity in my storage shed?

You have to decide whether the relative humidity of your environment is adequately dry for your storage needs. If not, you have to reduce moisture. We can't really say what's right for you.
It sounds like you have the space sealed up fairly well. For that reason I'd consider just using some bulk desiccant. It won't cost electricity and you won't have to worry about emptying buckets or pluming a drain line. If the building isn't very well sealed or you open doors frequently this could get expensive.
The best bet might be a window air conditioner. This would cool and dry the interior while keeping the generated heat outside.
Otherwise you could run a dehumidifier, but that creates heat and you'll probably want to plumb the drain line out somewhere. You wouldn't want to dehumidify and ventilate because you'd never catch up. This means the heat stays inside until it is conducted out through the building envelope.
I don't see ventilation being a great option. By reducing the interior temperature you may actually increase the relative humidity, and you introduce more mold spores than you'd have otherwise.


What heat resistant plastic should I use for a lightbox?

I'm not sure if you are still looking for strips but using these may help you with the heat problem.

They are slim, 7/8" by 1-5/8", not overly expensive and have a lens over them. They can even be mounted on their sides.  These would be cooler to run.  On the plastic, I'm not sure if just want to color the light or turn it into a part of the art piece, like lighting the ends for effects like that.

The nice thing is that there are similar brands so you can get something similar in you area.  Another type of lighting you can use is LED, but it would be 3 or 4 times the price of these.

On the plastic you can always use a piece of opaque white lens from recessed lighting.  You should be able to get them at a lighting store or at a DIY box store, or even an arts and crafts store.


How can I control a 240v single phase with a separate 240v phase?

Relay is in your question, and Relay is the answer.

(Amazon link because I was there xmas shopping..)

A relay like this has a coil voltage of 220v and is also capable of switching a 220v load.  The coil would be connected to circuit A, and the load/circuit B would be connected to the switched side.

Now, you'll have to select a relay for the size load you have and the type of terminals you want to use, but I believe a relay will do just what you need.

I have a set of relays that control my Christmas lights.  I have the coil side (120v) wired into the light on my porch, and that controls the heavier 20A 120v load circuit that powers the lights.  The light duty programmable light switch for the porch light now controls the 20A of lights.


Wiring question for replacement of two switches in one box

Currently the white neutral wires for the one incoming line and two loads are all bundled together with a wire nut. It would seem I need to use the jumper wire which came with each switch and merge both with the existing white wire bundle then attach the other ends of each jumper to the neutral terminal on each switch.  ... And the last question is whether I can use any copper wire to run from the white wire bundle to my switch? I seem to have misplaced the jumper wires which came with the switches

I think you have the right idea.  You'll want to attach a short piece of wire, a pigtail, to the neutral terminal on each switch, and splice those with the three neutral wires already in the box.  You should use the same white wire and the same wire gauge for the pigtails.  There is a good chance the existing wire nut won't make a good connection for you with five wires.  I'd suggest a push in wire connector that will accept all five wires.

  Another thing to mention is that the line wire is connected to the line terminals of the two switches in an interesting way. A small section of the wire about 6 inches from the end is stripped so the copper is exposed and that exposed section is wrapped around the screw of the line terminal on one switch then the end of the same wire is connected to the line terminal of the other switch. I want to be sure that this is an acceptable setup.

That's an acceptable way to make the connection, just make sure the wire is in good condition where the bare spot was stripped off - no nicks in the copper etc.  If the new switches are bulkier than the old switches, and that jumper is short, it may not be long enough to make it from terminal to terminal.  If that's the case, you can just pigtail the line side hots (blacks) the same way you did the neutrals.


200 amp service entrance to 200 amp sub panel?

There are two approaches to your situation with powering the house:

The conventional approach is to use a feeder-breaker and subpanel setup.  This works, and is pretty much guaranteed to be accepted by your AHJ when done correctly, but has the disadvantage that it requires a big (200A) branch breaker in the outdoor panel, which can be problematic in some cases, such as yours.
The more streamlined albeit less conventional approach is to use subfeed lugs to feed the inside subpanel.  This has some advantages (it's cheaper in your case for one) but could cause an inspector not used to seeing a "daisy-chain" of panelboards (this sort of feed-through configuration is much more common in commercial work than it is in residential) to complain even though it's Code-compliant.

What you'll want to install for both cases

Either way you go, you'll need to run four wires in conduit between the two panels.  The hot and neutral wires will be 250kcmil aluminum, while the ground (if your conduit is plastic) will be a 6AWG bare copper wire (this saves on conduit fill).  The conduit will need to be 2" minimum with a 2.5" conduit preferred; EMT or rigid metal is recommended, but PVC can be used if you're willing to toss the ground wire in there. In the indoor panel, the hot conductors land on the main lugs or main breaker there, while the neutral lands on the neutral lug and the ground (if present/necessary) lands on the ground lug.  Outside, the neutral lands on an add-on neutral lug (a TNLK250) attached to the neutral bar and the ground (if necessary) lands on the ground bar.

Running this connection via the path that yields the shortest route with the fewest bends is wise, by the way.  I would route out the back of the outdoor panel using a suitably sized (no shorter than six times the diameter of the conduit used) LB (a Crouse-Hinds LBNEC7 works, for instance), then make a straight shot into the interior panel from the LB if at all possible.  Less wire, less pulling, less hassle.

The streamlined way

I'll start with the streamlined approach, since it's still going to be cheaper and easier most likely than the more typical approach in your case.

What you are trying to do is typically done in commercial applications using what are known as feed-through lugs in commercial panelboards to feed a second panelboard directly from the busbars of the first without any intervening switch, fuse, or breaker.  However, while loadcenters don't have true feed-through lugs available, a set of suitably rated subfeed lugs can be used instead.

As to actually putting it together, you would use a set of THLK2200 subfeed lugs in the outdoor panel and attach the hot wires to the subfeed lugs. This leaves the service equipment outside, and creates a lug-fed subpanel at the inside location, with the bonding screw/strap removed from the inside subpanel, of course.

The conventional approach

In the conventional approach, we use a 200A feeder breaker to create a separately switched feeder and subpanel system here.  The required breaker is a GE TQDL21200 (or equivalently a Midwest Electric CB2200B); however, they are relatively rare/hard-to-find. The wiring, of course, is the same as above, just with the breaker instead of the subfeed lug kit.

As to the shop feeder

Once you have the house out of the way, then we can talk about powering up the shop.  Over 120', 1/0 AWG aluminum can be used either in the form of individual wires in Schedule 80 PVC or a four-wire type SE cable rated for direct burial.  The ground wire in the feeder needs to be a minimum of 8AWG copper and a grounding electrode (ground rod) will need to be driven at the shop and connected to the shop subpanel by an 8AWG copper wire.

The outdoor panel will receive a THQL21100 feeder breaker and a TNLK20 neutral lug to accommodate this, while the shop will need its own subpanel with the bonding jumper pulled and the shop grounding electrode conductor landed on the ground bar in addition to the feeder ground.  The feeder neutral lands on the neutral bar, while the feeder hots land on the line-side terminals of whatever the disconnecting means in that subpanel is -- it could be a main breaker or a backfed disconnecting device fitted with a hold-down kit.  In the main panel, the shop feeder hots land on the lugs of the feeder breaker, while the shop feeder neutral lands on the added neutral lug, and the shop feeder ground lands on the ground bar as usual.


Air handler turns on even when set temp is reached

I have a picture of a similar units wiring diagram, your unit might have connection for an optional outdoor thermostat - W2 on thermostat via outdoor thermostat to brown wire on air handler (if the outdoor thermostat is optional on your system - the diagram on the panel will tell you) and it will also describe how to install with out the outdoor thermostat by connecting the brown and W2 white leads together.  Again the panel has a wiring diagram - take a good picture of it and post it everyone can be much more helpful with that.


The "Guardian" lock should be fine. If you feel daring, give it a good shove from the outside.

For the strike plate, if it's secured with long screws and doesn't wobble, it should also be fine. If you choose to fix it, the approach will depend on how the rest of the door looks. I suggest you post another question that documents the width of all the reveals around the door-jamb gap.


How to fix stripped screw holes in drywall? (Without using drywall anchors)

Drywall without anchors has very little holding power. There really isn't a method to repair stripped holes in it either. You could insert a toothpick in the hole and hold it in place while you screw in the screw and the screw would hold but not with any power. You could also use a larger screw which would cut into new drywall. None of these will give you any holding power. Using an anchor of some sort is your best bet so you don't have to go through this again.


How to handle existing electrical when adding a partition wall where two existing wall switches exist?

Let's answer the second question first (quoting from your comment)

My only concern with that approach is my inability to staple the cable within 12" of the box - which I believe is required by NEC code 314.17(C).

Old work boxes have push-in clamps which secure the wire to the box. It's equivalent to a NM clamp on a metal box. Compare them to new work boxes sometime. Some feature that same clamp, but many merely have a break-out tab. That's where you need a staple, but since you have to attach it to a stud, your wall has to be open in some way in the first place.

Can I drill a hole in the stud right above the current j box, add an old work box on the other side of the stud, and simply feed the existing cable through the new hole into the new box?

Not really. You're going to lose 3-4" off your wire doing that, meaning they won't reach the location of your new box. The only solutions here are

Gain access from above. If the wires are running just right, you can drill a hole in the top plate, pull the existing wires back, and drop them into your new box. This is unlikely but still possible.
You'll need a second old work box above the new one somewhere. Drop the existing wires in and add new wires from this box to the switch box. Nut nut the wires off and then blank plate it. Not ideal, but you avoid re-running the wires. Doing this towards the top of the wall will be less obvious.


verify if the Ground cable is connected to Neutral cable

In Canada (and probably US) the Neutral and house Ground are connected in the main breaker panel, and that point is connected to a earth ground rod nearby.  The power company also connects the Neutral to an earth ground at each distribution transformer.  The specifics of Earth ground and Neutral/Ground connections may vary in different jurisdictions.


There is no such thing as C-wire per-se.  What we call the C-wire is a wire that is connecting your thermostat to the C-pin of your AC.  It provides the return path for the power from your thermostat.

From this picture, I don't see any free wire to use as C-wire.  But once you remove it from the wall, you might be pleasantly surprised to see an unused wire from the black cable concealed behind your unit.  Then connect that free wire to your AC C-pin and follow the wiring our your new smart thermostat.

Look at my furnace, you see that blue free wire.  I connected it to the C-pin currently connected to the yellow wire (the leftmost of the 5 screws) and it becomes my C-Wire.


Does a painted side of a glass cover for a fluorescent light go towards or away from the light?

I have seen a coat of semi-translucent paint on the inside of a fixture before.  My understanding was that the paint was to help dim the direct brightness of the bulb by making the cover more opaque. The paint was put on the inside to help prevent it being worn away, which is how I would place the glass.  I've seen the paint chipped off the glass before, and putting it towards the bulb may help prevent this. (plus its easier to clean and looks better?)


Wiring a neutral to a switch would be impossible without making it non-functional, unless you used a 3 way switch instead of a standard one. That would also explain the behavior. if there are three screws on the switch, you used the wrong type. The Neutral should not go to the switch, EVER.


How should I connect my humidifier to HUM terminals?

The HUM terminal on most furnaces is a 120VAC terminal. If you want to use the HUM terminal to control the humidifier, you're going to have to use a step down transformer, to drop that down to 24VAC.

To measure the voltage on the HUM terminal:

Set your volt meter to measure AC volts.
Place one probe on one HUM terminal.
Place the other probe on the other HUM terminal.

When the furnace is running in heat mode, you should measure ~120 volts about 1 second after the blower motor starts.

  "HUM relay closes on any heating call (HP/Gas)
  approximately 1 second after the blower motor
  starts"

- From manufacturer's literature

According to the manufacturer, the HUM terminal is rated for 1 ampere at 120 volts.

You may be able to simply connect the wire from the humidifier to the W terminal in the furnace, instead of directly to the transformer.  That way, the humidifier will only get power when the thermostat is calling for heat. However, without knowing more details about your system, it's impossible to say for sure if that will work.  Please provide the make and model of the humidifier, and a wiring diagram/photos, if you want a more accurate answer.


How can I hang a large but light poster on a concrete pillar?

Tape and concrete don't really mix that well.  It might initially hold, but it will eventually let go.

The best solution is to drill a hole and use a light concrete anchor or concrete nail.  Alternatively, you can use a special metal band that wraps the pole and has an attachment on it (sorry, I don't know the exact name of these) - they are often use for street signs like in the below image.

Image Source: http://isostainless.com


2 pipes going into the cold side of my water heater

I had a very similar system on my water heater and the additional pipe was for a heat recovery system from my ac compressor. Mine was installed in the early 80's but with ac compressors being so much more efficient now, the heat recovery system didn't work nearly as well as it did with my old unit. I have removed many additional pipes going into water heaters as they just aren't needed anymore and people didn't want them tied into their ac units for fear of failure. I also removed my additional pipes when I replaced my water heater. You could possibly find out that your's isn't even connected anymore.


I am also exploring building an ATV bridge.
If you are at all uncertain, it is worth consulting an engineer about these things and/or drastically over-engineering for safety. And beware of trusting random people (like me!) on the internet. That being said, a few comments:

It is easy to find calculations/examples online of the "weight that can be borne by a 2x something beam". Many of these are focused however on an evenly distributed load, e.g. snow on a deck or many people having a party above. That is different from the situation of weight supported by a single point.

The crucial element is the maximum bending moment your beams can support versus the bending moment induced by your proposed load. For a beam fixed at both ends, the bending moment is P x L / 4 for a single weight P at the middle, and P x L / 8 for an evenly distributed weight load, across a beam of length L attached at both ends. So it's proportional to the length, and a point mass of 1/2 of the evenly distributed load can be supported. More details can be found at https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wsdd/AWC-WSDD1986-ViewOnly-0301.pdf

The actual "strength" of the wood is determined by the allowable fiber stress, in psi. There's a range of figures out there for that. I would expect it depends on the specific material, e.g. SPF vs PT vs whatever you have on hand. The calculation at https://www.hunker.com/12484662/how-to-calculate-load-bearing-beams , which I have not verified, gives a ballpark allowable stress of 1132 psi. For a single 12' 2x12 (which is actually 1.5 x 11.25 inches) this comes out to a maximum allowable point weight of ~1000 lbs (at the midpoint).

If it's 1000 lbs for a 12' 2x12, it would be (12/20) times that for a 20', so about 600 lbs. Four of those would then carry 2400 lbs. I would find this inadequate in your situation, first because I'd want more of a safety margin (not sure how much to trust the 1132!), but also since you want to carry not only the 1500 lb UTV, but also likely 2-4 people, maybe a cargo in the back, and/or pulling a (full) ATV trailer...

If 20' is your span, to get the above capacities you need to attach the beams on solid bridge abutments on either side. The capacity of boards just lying there will be less, not only since they could slip, but because the forces are different (if the end is not attached, your ATV in the middle is not benefitting from longitudinally stretching the wood). In particular, is this covered in your 20', or does it mean you actually need, say, 28'?

Are 2x12s of the needed length available, and at a tolerable price, where you are? Where I am, up to 16' is easy, beyond that is much trickier. If you need to construct a beam from shorter boards, you're in a whole new ballgame (doable, by doubling up, glueing and nailing/screwing, and staggering the joins, but a much bigger project.)

With all this in mind, in my own slightly worse situation (I need to span 25' bank-to-bank, plus abutments) I've decided to hold out until I find a pair of used steel beams the right length; which is why also why I haven't fully verified the above numbers (but sharing in case useful to you and/or others.)


What are my options for making up for a narrower replacement door jamb?

Yes, google "jamb extension", and you'll get plenty of instruction.

The only quirk to watch for is that the width of the jamb extension will sometimes vary because the door/wall relationship isn't perfect.

One approach is to exactly scribe the extension to the plane of the wall. This is time-consuming but pretty.

If you have the jamb extension proud of the wall, then applying casing will be a pain.

If the jamb extension is not wide enough to come up to the plane of the wall, you can hammer the drywall (underneath where the casing goes!) to make it flush.

A modest gap between the door and the jamb extension can be filled with painter's caulk.

All in all, caulk is your friend.


Most electrical equipment sold in the US, including power strips and surge protectors, are rated by Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) as being safe for normal use in residential settings. Power cords and stirps are intended to be placed on various surfaces without danger. If a power strip were tightly enclosed with no opportunity for ventilation, this might create an unsafe situation. Obviously, overloading a power strip or outlet is risky.

Your suggestion of placing a cord or power strip on a TV stand and using it to supply less than the rated amperage is well within the intended uses and should pose no risk.

Extension cords and power strips are not intended to permamently replace properly located outlets. However, many power strip approved by UL include mounting holes on the back for attaching to walls or carts. If this is carefully done, is not likely to be damaged or too tightly enclosed and is not overloaded, it should pose no problem.

It is possible that local laws or building or lease rules may limit some uses.


What is the cross-sectional area of solid, 14 AWG THHN wire?

NEC Chapter 9, Table 8 shows 2.08 mm² is the CSA of bare solid #14 awg, and stranded is 2.68 mm².

But those numbers are just the CSA of the copper. You need to use the CSA including insulation, which varies with type of insulation. Those are found in Chapter 9, Table 5, in which you find #14 varies from 3.548 to 18.90 mm².


Proper way to level a shed foundation on concrete patio

It's really all about water, and what will happen in the future.  Just leaving the blocks on the patio you'll have in short order debris against each 4x4, which over time will rot out even pressure treated.

I'd put down 1x concrete pavers to make some space, then the wood block/shingle to level it out.


half bath plumbing layout in triplex - fittings

Both drawings look correct. The areas circiled in both options whoud use the same fittings: wye with 45 elbow (or a combo fitting). Tees are only used when drainig from horizontal to vertical (such as the fitting picking up the LAV's trap arm) or in venting (your LAV vent connecting to the branch vent).


Why does my microwave trip my AFCI only when it's mostly empty?

Most microwave ovens will generate arcs and sparks inside their cavity if they are run with an insufficient load, or no load whatsoever.  The high-frequency content from these arcs is being coupled (likely capacitively) through the HV transformer section of your microwave onto the AC line, where the AFCI can then see it and proceed to freak out, thinking the arcing is actually an AC mains arc, not a microwave cavity arc.

Suggestion: throw a coffee mug of water in with the slice of pizza.  This does the same thing as Keshlam's sacrificial bread slice -- i.e. provides more load to absorb the microwaves instead of letting them bounce around the cavity until they arc, just without having to waste a slice of bread.


What is the worst that could happen connecting the neutral from a smart switch to ground?

There are two main problems:

Since building codes doesn't allow such usage, any inspector who sees it is going to flag it and likely want to inspect a lot of other wiring.
If used in a circuit which is GFCI/RCD protected, any significant current the device would feed through its ground-connected neutral would likely cause the protection device to trip.

I don't think there's any technical reason why it shouldn't be possible for a manufacturer to create a class of switches which would be approved for use in such fashion [ensuring that such switches would never pass more than a fraction of a milliamp through the neutral lead even at startup would require extra circuitry, but that would not be an insurmountable problem.]  I would expect, however, that manufacturers have no motive to build devices which regulators would not recognize, and regulators have no motive to recognize devices that don't exist.


How can I wire an Insteon switch in this situation?

Is this a the 3 way switch? That is are there 2 switches in the house that control the same light? If so, you will have to replace both with insteon's for it to work since they will communicate wirelessly. Assuming it's a 3 way, make sure the switches to the light are turned off, since if they are on, some wires will appear hot when they really are not. Assuming the above photo is with the switches off, you have one wire labelled wire and you mention the line is always cold. You have that backwards. The line should be "hot".

The black wire on insteon is labelled line and that should attach to the two hot wires and the black cold wire (which is actually the traveller) should be capped off and cap off the red load wire coming from the insteon.

The other 3 way switch should have the hot wire attached to the line, and one of the wires should be capped (traveller) and the other should go to the red load of the insteon.

Page 11 of the Insteon instructions illustrates this as well. http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2477D-en.pdf


Neutral-Ground bonding with generator (no utility power)

Pull the bond, drive the rods at the panel
You are correct that you need to have the panel unbonded since the generator already provides the bond.  Practically speaking, though, unless you want to leave a bunch of copper laying loose for someone to run off with, you'll be using a #8 Bare Armored Ground (BAG) cable between your panel ground bus and a pair of 8' ground rods 6-8' apart.  Note also that if your panel doesn't come with a ground bus, you'll need to fit one (many main breaker panels simply don't provide them fitted from the factory on the assumption they'll be used as a main panel for a building).


How do I un-stick the release button on my Yale door knob?

You have to put in the key and turn it while pressing the release button (or anyone could remove the knob and break in).


I figured it out. They used an unlabeled 6 wire cable for some reason and capped two of them and used the remaining four wires for the pair of back of the house sensors.


How do I shut off hot and cold water in the house

Although there should be a shutoff under the kitchen sink and one at the hot water heater, turning off the cold water to the entire house will effectively shut off the hot water as well since the hot water heater is fed from the cold water.


How should I insulate an interior wall between a warm humid bathroom and a cold bedroom?

Given what you know about how you will heat the rooms differentially, insulation is good. I'd go with mineral wool (or fiberglass) since some sound isolation is often desirable between bedroom and bathroom and foam is not great at that application.

If you will be doing the bathroom walls with a moisture barrier no additional vapor barrier on the insulation is called for.


Do I need to remove peanut butter/oil stain from unfinished wood before staining?

You say a dark stain, which is good, but the peanut oil has already filled some of the space where the stain can soak in. That's bad. You don't want visibly lighter handprints on your steps.
I'd go with rags liberally moistened with mineral spirits. Let them sit on the spots for half an hour or so, then scrub vigorously.
You'll know if you succeeded when the mineral spirits dry off over the course of several hours.

It's best to have some ventilation when dealing with mineral spirits.


Is it feasible to store adequate thermal solar heat overnight?

It would almost undoubtedly be a better use of your available money, time, and space to add insulation, not a complicated solar heat storage system, which after all, will do nothing for you half the year.

Start with your basement and insulate the walls and the rim joists. Then move to your attic and air seal the floor and add about 12-16 inches of cellulose or fiberglass. That should help tremendously.

Here are some articles to help you get started on the right track: (greenbuildingadvisor.com and finehomebuilding.com)

All about basements
How to insulate a basement wall
Insulating rim joists
Air sealing an attic
How to insulate and air seal an attic hatch

After that, keep air sealing everything, and consider replacing your windows if they're on the way out for other reasons too (rotting, impossible to open or close, etc).

Doing all of these things should cut your heating AND cooling bills by 50% or more.


It turns out it was a Wattstopper PW-301-LA Motion Sensor, Passive Infrared Wall Switch.

You reprogram it for auto-on by flipping dipswitches underneath the power button. The PIR window is hidden in the lower third panel. The default is manual-on (PIR off) per CA electrical efficiency requirements so I don't think I'll change it.

The manual is on the manufacturer website.


Of course it is "allowed". Actually, what do you mean by allowed? Allowed by whom??

In newer homes newer codes apply, for the most part in an older home whatever was code at the time of installation is still code complaint today.


How do I fix seams that open up at the corners of walls during the winter?

The reason why this is happening is the structural members are expanding and contracting with the temperature/humidity changes.

There is no good solution to fix the issues, but you can cover it up.

The quick and dirty solution would be to put up quarter round over the seams, and attach it to the studs only- That is not to the ceiling.  This would allow for the expansion/contraction to remain covered.

Other options would be to install Cove moulding.

or Crown Moulding

Note that the Crown shown here is clip on, and the clip attaches to the wall only.  Again, this allows for expansion.

These can all be DIY projects if you're comfortable with finicky work.  It's a bit tricky to get the corner mitres looking nice and tight, and you'll need a compound mitre saw.


According to NEC 210.52 can this receptacle be counted as part of the required outlets in a dwelling?

It can be counted as a required receptacle since it does meet the letter of the code.


What PVC fitting can I use to replace this cast-iron wye?

It looks like 45 degree wye with a side inlet. Fit a reducer and a 45 degree street elbow on the branch.

this part found here


Well pump only works with on/off switch not control box

The clicking is the relay being pulled in. This is a common failure in relays after thousands of cycles the contacts burn and do not make good contacts, I have special burnishing tools to clean the contacts and this can also be done with a fine sandpaper (400+ grit), but cutting away contact material is a short term fix in some cases. A new relay is going to be needed in most cases.
The part number is usually stamped on the body, or the voltage of the controller and the voltage & amperage of the relay will be needed to get a replacement.

I only see 4 wires, 2 are the control voltage that pull in the coil and the other 2 are the “switch” that sends power to the pump.  Make sure to label them, so you don’t mix them up.


What tool should I use to unscrew a hard-to-access hexagonal screw?

Those are levelling legs.

Dishwashers are either held in via screws on top of the dishwasher that attach to countertop above, or that screw the side (look roughly 1/3rd down just inside the DW door) of the dishwasher to the surrounding cabinet.


How do I bring 50 amp service to my detached garage?

This is quite feasible to do

The hardest part about a job like this is getting your wires down the conduit.  Even with that, though, I would use conduit for the full length of the run to keep things simple.  Schedule 80 PVC is likely the easiest and best solution for a mixed indoor/sheltered/buried run like yours -- it is rated to protect wires against physical damage, is weatherproof, and assembles much the same way that PVC plumbing pipes do (i.e. with cemented joints).  Just keep three rules in mind:

PVC will do the worm on you due to thermal expansion if you don't put expansion joints in every 12' or so in the exposed (i.e. not buried) parts of the run.
Conduit needs support -- for PVC, attach it to the wall or deck joists every 3' and at expansion joint locations.
Keep the number of bends between pull points to a minimum.  Code only allows a single loop (360 degrees), but less is better -- you can use conduit bodies to change direction and reset the bend-count at the same time, provided they're accessible later.

Once the conduit's in, along with a pulling-string to help you get those wires in it, it's time to get some conductors in there.  You'll need THWN wires as the conduit outside is considered a wet location, and four of them at that: two hots, a neutral, and a ground.  The neutral must be white, and the ground must be green or preferably bare to save conduit space, while the hots can be any other color than white, green, or grey.  As to size, you're looking at 6AWG copper or 4AWG aluminum for the hots and neutral, and a 10AWG copper wire for the ground.

Last but not least -- you'll want to size the conduit generously, and a 1.25" PVC conduit will easily fit 3 4AWG aluminum wires and a 10AWG copper ground with room to spare.  Of course, if you want to put in a bigger conduit, knock yourself out -- it'll pay dividends if you want to upsize the wiring or pull more conductors later.


If you can drain the pipe, then you could heat the pipe with a blow torch and using some long handle pliers or pipe grips gently "persuade" the kink out... You have to have patience.

But if it is not severe then leave well alone and don't bend it any more.


Yes, ceiling fans can and do move air downwards, regardless of which direction the motor is spinning. The direction of the motor determines where the downdraft air will be coming from, as well as its relative temperature:

In the summer, you set your fan to spin counter-clockwise, so that air is directed downwards underneath the fan. This provides a cooling effect on your skin, and the air being forced downward is relatively cool.

In the winter, you reverse the fan direction. This directs the relatively warm air above the fan outward and then downward, making the rest of the room feel warmer.

There are certainly some fans on which the motor speed can be reversed using a remote; just search your local fan store. However, this site indicates that fans mounted on cathedral or vaulted ceilings are too high to produce a wind-chill effect and should be left spinning CCW (in "summer" mode) year-round (although it is the CCW direction that produces the wind chill effect, so maybe a typo?). Another site indicates that high ceiling fans should be reversed. The US government's energy star site doesn't take a position either way, so you may just have to try it and see.

In any case, ceiling fans only cool people, so there's no need to run them when nobody is in the room. And their effect is felt pretty quickly after they're turned on, so no worries about having them on before you get into the room.

Fans installed over tables are probably the exception to the above rules, as you'd always want them running CW. This prevents the downdraft from being right over the table, cooling off food too fast or blowing homework, playing cards, etc around.

Images taken from here


How do you solve a problem like a mystery switch?

Start by opening them up and seeing if they've been bypassed.  Sometimes people eliminate a switch, and then don't bother removing the switch because they don't want to be left with an empty hole.  If you find a bypassed switch, un-bypass it.
Some switches actually switch power to a receptacle.  This is often done instead of an overhead ceiling light, because that saves the builder a couple of dollars. There's a complication: As you know, most US receptacles have 2 sockets. The sockets can be split to be separately controlled: if you ever hear something about "tabs" on sockets, that's what that's all about.  It's common to split and have one socket switched and the other always-hot.  So you need to check 'em both... on each recep.
Sometimes, novices replace receptacles (they don't like the color) and they don't even realize that tabs are a thing, so they don't break off the tab like the old one was.  This will have the effect of defeating the switch. Spotting these is a bit of a trick, and the only way is to open up the receptacles and look for odd wiring.


I don't know where you are located and plumbing terminology can vary by region, however, the typical method to plumbing a single bathroom would be to use a 'wet vent'. I've discussed wet vents in this previous answer, which includes a full definition as well as the components of a wet vent.

One condition of a wet vent is that the toilet needs to be the last fixture connected (or be connected via a symmetrical fitting). Here's the reworking of your sketch as a wet vent with the toilet as the last fixture:

The portion highlighted in red is the wet vent. This section of pipe will drain the sink as well as allow air to pass through and vent both the shower and toilet. With this configuration, you do not need the second vent at the end.

As others have mentioned, the cleanout at the end is optional, as the removal of the toilet will act as a cleanout for the line.


How main bars are placed in this picture? Paralle to traffic or perpendicular

Anything that big and carrying a load (you said "traffic") is deep in the "licensed structural engineer" category. Don't ask about it on the internet, find someone with a suitable university degree, license from the local authorities, and quite a bit of experience building bridges.

No, this person will not be cheap. But neither will that bridge.


How do I dry up a stucco wall that presents efflorescence?

Here's what comes to mind:

Increasing air flow, using fans - on both sides if possible.
Applying a product that will extract the moisture (sorry, no idea if such a product exists - maybe someone else knows of one).
Increasing the heat of the area to encourage moisture evaporation.  This can be accomplished with conventional heaters, heating bars, or using mirrors to redirect the sunlight.

Combining the ideas may increase their efficacy.

Please note that I do not consider myself to be an expert on this matter.


Go for it

Any modern furnace will have enough capacity on the C wire to support a "smart" thermostat as well as powering the control board and the compressor contactor, so I would simply take the coiled-up blue wire ends at the splice, nut them together, install your new thermostat, and enjoy!


Here's my speculation, based on your description and my experience. It is just a theory. Do not commit any resources based on this without collecting corroborating physical evidence supporting it. A direction to investigate at least.

The main floor plumbing goes out to a septic tank. The pipes were not placed lower because there was no need, it just meant digging deeper outside. No one wants to do that without good reason.

When the city sewer was installed, the basement construction tied into it, but the old plumbing was never redirected, it remained on the septic tank. Not the best scheme and possibly illegal, but I'm not surprised someone did this.

It is highly probable there is nothing below to the basement to tie into. The sewer may not be much lower than the basement drainage exit. Anything placed lower than this will likely need to drain into an ejector pumping chamber.


Missing Step & Kickout Flashing / Sinking Front Step (?)

That's a bigger disaster than you see. That Hardiboard needs to be cut at least 1" or so above the roof surface. Believe it or not, Hardiboard can't get wet. It's the engineers' dirty little secret, can't wait to dole out the big fat "I told you so's" when the lawsuits begin....

That wet spot is your sign - you need to remove all the siding from the gutter on up, install step flashing, with the kick-out at the bottom you described, then reinstall the siding. You'll sleep better at night knowing it was done right, and it won't leak anymore.

EDIT TO ADD: I don't believe your stoop is related to the leak. May be a contributing factor, but not the culprit. Stoops are poured on ground that is disturbed and excavated during construction, on backfilled soil. Repeatedly, builders and homeowners pour stoops without firmly anchoring the pad to the foundation with steel to prevent reverse sloping. In your case, the stoop needs to be broken up, properly anchored, and repoured. Sorry.


How do I eliminate stagnant water caused by central A/C draining outside?

You'll want to create a small leach pit, which will allow the water to drain into the ground.

Start by digging a hole about 12-18" deep (depending on your soil), Next fill the bottom of the hole (about half the hole) with crushed stone (loosely compacted).  Fill the rest of the hole to about 1" from the top with sand, then finish with a nice decorative stone. If the soil is typically very moist (i.e. you get a lot of rain), you can skip the sand and fill the hole all the way up with crushed stone, and then top with decorative stone.  Another option would be to top the hole off with something like this

So you'll follow the same procedure as above, but rather than filling the second half of the hole with sand/stone you'll put in a drain pipe like this.

The whole idea here is to have the water leach into the ground, without forming a puddle where mosquitoes and other things can breed.

If you do this and still find that the water is pooling, you'll have to take more drastic steps.  The best option from there would be to install a French Drain, and connect the drain line from the AC unit to it.  There are already some questions that deal with french drains, so if it comes to that you should have no trouble finding out how to do it (how do i build a french drain).

You could also buy a small leach pit, but this might be overkill for your situation.

You'll bury this in the ground surrounded by 3/4" - 1 1/2" crushed stone, then connect the AC unit drain to the lower inlet pipe (the upper pipe is a vent). Before you drop it in the hole, remember to remove the small hole knockouts (to allow leaching). This will require a larger hole, and again may be over kill for your situation.


So what happened?

Well, the rule with all things electrical is, they work right up until they don't. With a small transformer like that, it is likely if it overloaded it could burn a wire in half thus failing open.

Apparently, you have a basic voltage tester so you can test for continuity (or resistance) on the primary side (240v) of the transformer, and test the secondary side (120v). It is possible some part of the external wiring  has opened and could be repaired. If either the primary or secondary are open, internal to the transformer, then you could replace the transformer. If this is cost prohibitive then, unfortunately, you may have to buy a new one.

Good luck!


Ductless Mini Split System for Cooling, Heating, and Dehumidification

You need to do a heating/cooling load calculation on your building with its specific design and insulation. It's a lot more than just the dimensions of the building. For example you need the volume of the building so you need the ceiling height.

Then select a make and model large enough to handle the load with the humidity option you require.

Asking for specific recommendations of make and model is considered off topic since it is asking for someone to shop for you.

Good luck!


Do I need to cut stone countertop for kitchen sink?

Does the new sink fit in the existing hole in the counter top?

If so, drop it in, caulk it, adjust (if necessary) and connect the plumbing and enjoy.
If not, you'll have to enlarge the hole to make it fit.

If you do have to enlarge the hole, you may want to seriously consider hiring someone to do the cutting for you. While you can cut a stone countertop yourself, it's not easy, most folk don't have the proper tools, and a screw up here can lead to needing to replace the entire countertop, which probably isn't a top-priority budget item for you today.
There are other questions here about cutting stone countertops, I'd recommend doing some searching to see what's involved.


How do I identify the speaker setup for these ten in-home speakers?

I'd try a AA battery first to reduce the current going through the speaker, but it should still be audible.

You'll need a helper to stand by one of the speakers and listen for static or a clicking noise.

Just take one cable coming out of the wall, and short each combination of wires across the battery in turn until you hear a click or static at the speaker:

Black + Red
Black + White
Black + Green
White + Red
White + Green
Red + Green

The first one will be tricky until you know the color combinations to use -- you'll have to try all combinations on each wire from the wall until your helper hears it at the speaker. More than one helper makes it easier by listening to more than one speaker at a time.

Since one of your cables has white/black + red/green twisted, it's likely that these are the pairs.

It sounds like more than one speaker runs per cable so one speaker in the room might use white/black, the other speaker uses red/green.


How do I work out the CH boiler size we should have?

I'm not sure of it's accuracy, but there's a calculator at energysavingtrust.org, and here's a very similar calculator that's a little bit easier to read (imo). I'm guessing the location factor for both of them is based on average winter low temperatures for the region selected. I'd look up climate info on the areas and try to pick something similar to where you live.


Can I Effectively Jump my Furnace Wiring for A Long Time Safely

Can this be jumped safely, YES. Many furnace controls have the fan only option but as you found the wires did not extend to the thermostat. If you were able to use the 24v to pull in the fan relay and not activate the gas valve what you have done would not be a problem with normal low voltage thermostat wiring and would be hard to be unsafe at 24v.

Prior to installing any wiring I would get permission from the land lord.
 I have installed toggle switches on furnaces in the past for this same reason, to have a fan option, I did not consider pulling new 5/7 conductor wire to the thermostat as that would have doubled the cost of the job. The furnace was conveniently located, so it was no big deal to just flip the switch.


How can I drill through very hard porcelain tile?

Check your Tile bit to see if you have melted the edge. normally it should feel nice and sharp against your finger.  Hopefully you have a nice drill (generally battery operated may be a little on the light side).

What I do, is get a straw filled with water, or a spray bottle, and get a helper to either "pipette" or spray water onto the hole while you drill.

Second, keep the drill at slow speed - high torque, pushing hard onto the tile. You should hear it biting into the tile, As soon as you go too fast and see the tile or bit-tip going red, you have probably destroyed the bit (this is especially true for ceramic tiles)

third. as you suggested, some bits actually like it when you move the drill in an orbital fashion. I find that it cuts well on some of my bits.

So basically, if you are keeping the cut surface nice and wet (cool), and you have a sharp bit, you are doing everything right.

I have previously bought diamond bits like these with very little success. (i think you need to go for name brands here)

These are the regular tile bits which I speak of. (and I am sure the ones you describe)


Why would you use copper electrical conduit?

I'm guessing it's plumbing, not conduit.  Unless you actually see wires running through the tubing, I'm not convinced it's conduit. In the US only certain types of conduit are listed for use, and I'm sure they are similar in Canada. Copper is not among those listed, so it's not likely it would be approved by an inspector.

In a comment you mentioned that the pipe was connected using "nuts", and therefore could not be used for water.  However, I disagree.  A union is a fairly common fitting in plumbing. In fact, you'll probably find some if you look at the plumbing for the water heater in your house.

Update:

After further searching National Electrical Code, I found this...

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Article 344 Rigid Metal Conduit: Type RMC

  II. Installation

  344.10 Uses Permitted.
  (A) Atmospheric Conditions and Occupancies.
  (2) Red Brass RMC. Red brass RMC shall be permitted to
  be installed for direct burial and swimming pool applications.

  (B) Corrosive Environments.
  (1) Galvanized Steel, Stainless Steel, and Red Brass
  RMC, Elbows, Couplings, and Fittings. Galvanized steel,
  stainless steel, and red brass RMC elbows, couplings, and
  fittings shall be permitted to be installed in concrete, in
  direct contact with the earth, or in areas subject to severe
  corrosive influences where protected by corrosion protection
  and judged suitable for the condition.

  (C) Cinder Fill. Galvanized steel, stainless steel, and red
  brass RMC shall be permitted to be installed in or under
  cinder fill where subject to permanent moisture where protected
  on all sides by a layer of noncinder concrete not less
  than 50 mm (2 in.) thick; where the conduit is not less than
  450 mm (18 in.) under the fill; or where protected by corrosion
  protection and judged suitable for the condition.

Which means it's possible the conduit is not copper, but red brass. According to wikipedia, red brass may be 85% copper, 5% tin, 5% lead, and 5% zinc.


There's no issue with the weight-bearing capacity of properly seamed drywall.
It may be a little more difficult to cut the hole due to the joint, but there's no structural defect of note to supporting a lightweight light fixture designed to be supported by drywall.


Can I switch this outlet for a USB outlet?

Your existing outlet (NEMA 6-20) is used for 240 volts while your USB/outlet (5-15) is designed for 120 volts. Assuming the 6-20 is correctly wired, you cannot just replace it with the USB outlet. As well as supplying the wrong voltage to anything plugged into it, the USB charger that is built in will probably die, possibly violently!

(The key to knowing that it is for 240 volts is that the right-hand slot is horizontal instead of vertical. The T-slot on the left is for 20 amps and can accept either a 6-15 (15 amp) ot 6-20 (20 amp) plug.)

If you want to use the new outlet in that place, you will need to go into your fuse/breaker box and change the wiring to the outlet to 120 volts.


Help identify this cabinet clip used to mount face frame on cabinet?

Hmm, those were harder to find than expected. It's extremely unlikely that you'll find an exact match (unless you can go back to the manufacturer of your cabinets), but here's a few possibilities.

Hettich: https://diy.hettich.com/en/products/connecting-fittings/carcase-and-cabinets-connectors.html

Blum: http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-surface-mount-rta-fittings-b040-2

Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40080&cat=3,41306,41319&ap=1 (Although these don't look like much, they're extremely solid and set with a satisfying thunk. They'll also come apart without wrecking anything.)


Tile over dry wall even water resistant will not last as long but mat survive for up to 25 years if well sealed and has a gap at the bottom of the tub.
This method of tiling was quite popular in the 50’s, 60’s and into the 70’s . On repair work I have done on tiled bath and shower stalls neglect is usually the cause of the failure. What was the neglect? Failure to reseal the grout so water finally degraded the Sheetrock to the point tiles fall off or someone pushes the wall in , the larger the tile the longer the wall will last.
So can you do it , yes , we flipped several houses with a quick overlay that made a crappy looking bath look like a mid level home.
On my own houses I have always stripped down to the studs, on showers I put up poly vapor barrier, not on tub surrounds, then cement board and then tile. My very first tile shower is over 45years old and the only problem has been the fixtures failed and they were tough to replace as I tiled right up to the valves. (My mom still has this home) last time I was home I did acid etch and reseal the entire thing as my step dad can’t do much any longer but asked if I could make sure it would be ok, Mom has always been worried as it was my first shower back in the 70’s. So if done right they really can last a lifetime and this was 2”x 2”.


Can I fix mold infestation of around 10 square feet, or do I need pro?

I agree the leak must be fixed first. Hydrogen peroxide is an excellent mold killer. Saturate any areas with a 3% or less solution (test the carpet for color fastness). Hydrogen peroxide will kill the mold and other organics with out the smell of chlorine. If you get a stronger solution of hydrogen peroxide always add the hydrogen peroxide to water not water to the hydrogen peroxide to prevent a bad reaction.  This can be done by a home owner and is easy works quickly. 1 application will usually kill even the toughest gunkies but a second may be needed.


How can I seal a slate floor for long term protection?

If you're regrouting I highly recommend epoxy grout.  It's impermeable and doesn't have to be sealed.  I'm never using regular grout again.  I've done some myself, and have also asked pro tile setters to use it even if they haven't before, and haven't had problems with that.

Here's the post that turned me on to it for more info on market options


Turning water off to house for a vacation, does furnace need to go off as well?

If the water is shut, should water level drop, e.g. if an outside faucet were turned on, it's likely a water heater or boiler would be damaged.

If plumbing is sound, I'd not shut the water for just one week in summer, since it's unlikely pipes would freeze. For a long-term winter vacation, if turning off heat, you'd need to drain the plumbing, dish- and clothes-washer, flush toilets, put potable antifreeze in drains, etc.


Should expansion gaps in an OSB3 roof be filled before installing EPDM roofing?

Gaps between the sheets are specified by the manufacturer because the gap allows for a bit of movement - expansion, in particular - to be absorbed without causing any buckling in the roof deck. If the gaps are filled, whether with sawdust, other debris, or an intentional sealant, then their ability to absorb expansion will be compromised.

Laying an EPDM membrane directly over the panels does pose a challenge: the gaps between panels may telegraph through the membrane and this may be unsightly. Ask the membrane supplier for a recommendation. For example, they might suggest applying some kind of tape over the OSB joint gaps and possibly applying a mastic over the tape to smooth it further.


Level of repair for rotting outdoor stairs

Obviously you have to replace the bad treads. The bigger issue is the stringers. Unless you remove all the treads and trace one it'll be difficult to accurately match the current shape. For that reason, and assuming that the rot doesn't substantially weaken them, your best bet is patch blocks.

I'd cut lengths of 2x6 to about 16" and screw them to the stringers, level with each tread cut and flush with the riser cut. They can extend out the rear somewhat, saving fitment effort. Use four to six 3" corrosion-resistant screws on each, through the stringer first. This puts the primary grab in the new wood. Do this on one side of each stringer as needed.


Soundproofing windows against air traffic noise

First, figure out how the majority of noise is getting into the interior.  Is it really coming through the windows? Or is it coming through the roof and ceiling and walls?

Windows are the hardest to sound deaden, but you imply you are good with acoustic foam on the windows?!  What about bricking (in a removable way) over the window?

An existing space can be quieted substantially with heavy draperies from ceiling to floor.  Not just on the windows, but on the walls.

A drop ceiling installed under an existing ceiling also helps.  That also allows placement of additional insulation.

No idea what the limits are for UK rentals, but they seems to be a lot more loosey-goosey than in the U.S.!


How can I remove this tile window stool without compromising the installation of the vinyl window?

All windows I've seen were supported at least in part on the sides by nail fins or directly through the frame. Even if your window is technically bottom supported (I can't imagine there is such a vinyl window) there should be enough support from surrounding finish materials to remove the tile and fill in the gap with another material without the window moving in the short term. It may eventually settle if it were intended to be bottom supported and left without support, but it would take a while for the surrounding materials to give up their grip.

You will not have a problem removing material under the window.


How to connect one set of wire (+ ground wire) to outlet

Are the tabs on the outlet intact? I am thinking the outlet prior may have a broken tab so the feed is not making it to this outlet. Many times only 1/2 of a switched outlet is switched we snap the tab between the top and bottom screw on the hot side take the switch to 1 and always hot to the other. In the case with 2 cables or 2 blacks and 2 whites in the box 1 is the hot the other feeds the next device , if that tab is broken on either side the next outlet will not get both the hot and neutral.


Where can you find out how repetitive the patterns of a particular laminate floor are?

Have a look at this image gallery, but keep in mind that photo searches often introduce random unrelated images (like the bicycle team and warrior princess).

The most telling image—to me—is this one from here:

The break in grain and the prominent joint is something I notice right off, but it is also something completely normal in natural wood flooring.

My experience is that the monotony of a pattern can be hidden during installation by taking care to arrange the units in an order which does not repeat closely.  If you won't be doing the installation yourself, perhaps you are up to laying out like half the units in a desirable arrangement for the installer to use as is.  (They will appreciate not having to carry and open the packages.)


Will splitting a duct to extend HVAC to an addition cause problems?

Typically Ducts are sized for the space they are conditioning. Splitting a duct will reduce the efficiency of conditioning that space. You will need to know if the HVAC system has enough CFM Flow for the addition to begin with. Ideally it would be best to run a line direct from the main box coming from the HVAC unit. You could also increase the size of the line to the main unit and then branch from the larger line to the addition.

Will it cause a Problem in the HVAC System, not really, especially if it is not zoned. If you have a Zone system then your bypass damper may need some adjusting as the back pressure of that run is now lower.

Scott<-


Installing a drainable waterline to garage, draining into sump for winter months

You could use a valve with a built in drain like this.

Or put in two valves. One to shut off the main supply ahead of the sump and one to drain into the sump.

Good luck!


Does joint compound or ceiling texture emit a harmful odor?

Before reading your question, I would have said that joint compound is completely inert/ non-toxic/ ready-to-serve. (That last one was a joke, btw.)

Looking at a couple of MSDS sheets for common joint compounds, they seem pretty inert. However, there are suggestions on the interwebs (for all that's worth!) that some joint compounds contain traces of vinyl acetate monomer, acetaldehyde and formaldehyde.

My best suggestion is to request the name of the actual products used, and seek out the MSDS sheets for those products. It's possible that she is sensitive to something in the mix. Having said that, though, these things usually off-gas pretty quickly... ventilating will do a world of good.

If a popcorn/stucco touchup is next, there are a few types of product used, but most common are canned (aerosol) wall texture, and premixed/powdered wall texture that are sprayed on with special equipment. If they opt for something in an aerosol can, you might want to specifically request that they use the water-based version, as oil-based ones are smelly. The spray-on ones are probably as inert as the joint compound used for patching.

If there's respiratory sensitivity due to dust, be aware that sanding drywall is messy and it's either that extreme dust containment is needed, or that your grandmother might choose to leave while work is being done.

Same sort of advice for painting: request low VOC paint (which is quite typical these days), ventilate, or vacate.


In an old house, do I need a ground wire to install newer outlets, lights, and appliances?

GFCIs do not provide grounding and are not a substitute for grounding. They are allowed as a substitute for ground because they do a good job protecting people from electric shock.  This is worthless for equipment protection.  An ungrounded GFCI requires a sticker saying

NO EQUIPMENT GROUND

to put users on notice that the equipment will not be protected from ESD and cannot get a useful antenna ground.
In 2014 they changed the rules so you can now retrofit ground wires to older wiring.  Grounds can take any reasonable path (don't need to be kept with the cables) and circuits can share grounds.  So any given outlet only needs its ground to go to the nearest place with thick enough wire back to the panel.  That includes non-flexible metal conduit being used as a ground path, and the Grounding Electrode System (bare copper wire going off to ground rods).
With older houses, I advise assuming nothing about the Grounding Electrode System.  Nothing beats a physical inspection.  Valid GES paths are an Ufer ground (if it was poured into the concrete at build time), a water main clamp (on the utility side of the water meter; utilities are replacing meters with plastic  smart meters that do not conduct electricity) or 2 ground rods each 8' long... set at least 6' apart but preferably catty-corner on the house.  1 ground rod will suffice if it passes an expensive test.


Easy: Motion detection lights.

Difficult: Alarm system.

High maintenance: Guard dog.

Anything can be broken into by a determined thief, the idea is to make your place less attractive of a target than the next place.


GFCI not working, but circuit reads fine?

The best way to see if your circuit to your receptacle is bad is to get a piece of romex and a receptacle and make up a test circuit. If you do this make sure all bare screws and wires are insulated and there is no exposure for electric shock.
Anyway connect the new circuit you just made to your GFCI. If the GFCI tripped then you are making it up wrong. If the GFCI resets then you have a wiring problem in your circuit. It may not cure the problem but at least it will point you in the right direction to look for the problem.


How should I connect a replacement dimmer switch?

There are 2 things I see from your photo and video.

First I believe the two black wires in the box are a source wire (120V) and a continuation of the source to another box. This means with both of them apart, something else in your dwelling is not working. So check that out. The red wire is probably the switch leg to your light or lighting fixtures.

Second it looks like the replacement dimmer you have is for a 3-way dimming set up. The 2 red wires are the carriers and the black goes to the light fixture.

If what I said is correct then you can connect the two black conductors in the box with a one red conductor on the dimmer and wire nut off the second red wire. Then you can connect the red conductor from the box to the black wire at the dimmer and that should work. You might just take it back and get the proper dimmer switch.

WARNING I can't be sure. Since I am not on site and cannot test the conductors in the box and cannot read the information on the dimmer. You might check the box the dimmer came in there is usually schematics on connecting the dimmer on the inside of the box. Also take a meter and identify the wires inside the wall junction box.

Good luck and be safe. Make sure your conductors are all turned of at the panel before trying any connections.


How should I arrange artificial logs, and should they become sooty?

Real wood goes black as well - products of combustion commonly called soot.

If the device is set properly then there will be some, but if there seems to be a lot then get the device checked.


Can I upgrade my service and install a new panel?

You can't just throw in a bigger breaker, and expect it to work the way you want.

First of all, you're going to have to have the utility install conductors sized appropriately for 200 ampere service. Depending on how the building is wired, you'll also have to upgrade the conductors that run from the service drop to the meter (this might be handled by the utility, depending on how the building is wired). Next, you're going to have to upgrade the conductors that run between the meter and the disconnect (likely handled by installing the new panel pictured). Finally, you may have to upgrade some of your grounding and bonding conductors, as they are typically sized based on the size of the service.

Once all that's done, then you can likely proceed as you've described. However, you're going to have to evaluate how the system is grounded. The service neutral will have to be bonded in the new panel, where the 200 amp disconnect lives. Then you'll have to feed the existing panel (now a secondary panel), with a 4 wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral, ground). You'll also have to isolate the grounded (neutral) bar in the existing panel, if it's not already.

Long story short, this is not a simple job. There are a lot of subtle details, that can easily be missed by a DIYer.  I would recommend having an Electrician at least help you plan the project, and inspect the completed work.


How can I replace electrical boxes with the least amount of collateral damage?

The answer is: Don't.

Outlets are black, beige or white, and rarely dark brown or gray. Beige came into style by the 60s and white by the 90s. Yours are probably beige.

Leave the old receptacle boxes alone. They ARE grounded, there's nothing wrong with them, they obviously do have enough wire to reach the old receptacles.  That's all you need.

"Modern" receptacles are the same size.  Just change your receptacles from whatever's in there now, to a quality $3-4 each midgrade receptacle. If replacing backstabs, get receptacles with screw-and-clamp terminals - the wires poke in the back, but clamp by tightening down the screw terminals. Slick.

If the wires are ALL 12 AWG and the breaker is 20 amps, you can use 15/20A receptacles which have a "T" shape on the neutral slot.

If you had "back stab" types before, don't cut them off because you'll lose precious wire length.  Instead, pull steadily on the wire while twisting the receptacle back and forth (not enough to deform the wire), and the wire will ease out.  It will have scratches but will work fine with screw-and-clamp or side terminal screws.  Don't use it again on a "back stab", in fact never use backstabs ever because they stink.  Also don't pry it out with a wire nipper because you'll nick the wire.

GFCI

Ground faults are current following abnormal paths, such as through a human who is being electrocuted.  Mainly, they protect people and pets from shock.   Usual cause: bathroom mistake or defective plug-in appliance.

If you want GFCI, remember the first rule: Only the first GFCI device needs to be GFCI. Everything downstream can be plain old outlets, and they inherit GFCI protection because they are fed off the "load" terminals of the first GFCI.  That's how the GFCI can be a circuit breaker.  It can also be a new receptacle you insert at the front of the chain, for instance 1 foot from the service panel.  I do that all the time.  GFCI receptacles are cheaper than breakers.

Honestly it depends what threats you're worried about, but if you're distrust your old wiring, or want to follow the latest code, I'd consider AFCI instead, or both.

AFCI

Arc faults are loose connections, broken wire etc. causing current to leap across a gap.  This makes a lot of heat and starts fires.  If you've heard the unique "sizzle", it also sounds like that on the wires.  AFCI's have a computer inside which listens for that peculiar electrical noise.  Usual cause: defective in-wall wiring or receptacles; sometimes bad appliance.

Generally the cheapest way to get AF protection is with an AFCI circuit breaker.

Combo AFCI+GFCI

You can also get combo AFCI/GFCI breakers, but they are expensive.  Watch for ones which will indicate why they tripped, otherwise you'll go bonkers.

Another way to get combo AFCI is to use an AFCI breaker, but a GFCI receptacle in the first point in the chain.  This makes it more obvious what tripped.


Imperfectly cut tile (4mm short) within acceptable range of error?

Nobody else will ever notice it. You'll forget about it in a week, unless you let it drive you insane, which will result in everybody feeling bad, since the tile guy is unlikely to see one corner of the range hood being 2mm offset from the opposite one as remotely within the realm of a sensible customer complaint.

If this will drive you mad, I recommend that you hire a different person to redo that part of the work and explain to this other person exactly what your expectations are. One of those expectations should be pay a lot for this service.

Personally, I would just make the grout line a bit thicker on that side or put some colored caulk in there or something. It's a tiny tiny difference that nobody is ever going to notice.


Multiple GFCI with two hot wires and shared neutral

A GFCI can only sense a difference in currents which flow though that GFCI.
In your example, the current for your toaster flows through GFCI #2, but completely bypasses GFCI #1 (and #3 & #4).

The other GFCIs are not 'aware' of this 5A toaster current, because current flowing in the neutral wire doesn't flow through these GFCIs.


The wires that support the lamp filament may be shorting out causing the breaker to trip (assuming there is no damage to the socket itself).  This can create a less than safe condition because there is a live exposed wire in the broken lamp base. If used, when the oven heats up the wire could move around and short again. If the lamp can be turned off the oven could be used. I have had success using a raw potato pressed into the broken lamp base, power off. Some times turning both clockwise then counter clockwise working both directions can loosen the lamp base so it can be removed.


First off the fire department won't help you until there is a fire. They don't do electrical work.

The circuit breaker that feeds that wire should be shut off until the receptacle is replaced or the problem is corrected. If the receptacle is to be eliminated the wires should be capped off and a blank plate should be put on the box.

If you, or your partner, are not comfortable doing electrical work, you should call an experienced electrician to correct this and any other electrical problems in the house.

Good luck on your project!


Do you have a single return grill near the center of the house or do you have numerous return grills in many rooms? If it is a single return grill, check to see if it has a filter that needs to be changed. Also it is possible that the blower fan's vanes have accumulated enough dirt and dust to reduce their ability to move enough air through the duct system but would allow the furnace to operate properly when the blower door is removed.


Non woven geotextile fabric for french drain clogging in heavy clay

You want water away from your basement wall and your solution, which often works, is indirect, you're attempting to drain all the water away, rather than the water you care about.

A solution is to keep the water away from the exterior of the basement wall using a waterproof coating on the exterior of the wall, and then a drainage board over the coating. Then, set up your foundation drain to drain the water AFTER it gets through the filter covering which is outside the drainage board. This eliminates the clogging issue. If the filter clogs, you're happy because the water isn't getting to the basement wall.

For the other issue, treat it separately by continuing the non-perf pile the entire distance.


How to refinish antique stained with walnut?

"Antique Furniture refinisher" from someone like Minwax or Formby's (not an endorsement) is intended for just this sort of thing. It is basically a mild solvent that blends into the existing finish and redistributes it.


I would advertise "Free Shed" on Craigslist. I had a tree house I constructed for my grand kids, and when they outgrew it that's what I did. Some folks came out one Saturday, disassembled it, and took it away. They did the whole job. I just got to watch.


How can I insulate a duct running through an unconditioned kneewall space?

What about using flex duct it is already insulated?
If you want to use metal duct you don’t have to frame around the duct like your pic that leaves air space,  get bats of insulation and wrap the insulation over the exterior side of the duct much like your drawing but in contact with the duct.


How to hide patch of mud & oil primer under latex paint

Yes, you can and should sand latex if you are painting over it.  You cannot expect the next coat of paint to grip if it doesn't have a roughed surface to grip to.  Painting a glossy or glazed surface is like painting glass - it has no adhesion and will lift right up.

Fresh latex is hard to sand because it hasn't cured yet.  You have to wait it out.  If it won't sand, it's definitely too soon to overcoat it with anything but itself.  (and on that, check the cans for recoat rules).  You really need to leave decent curing time between dissimilar products - especially oil over latex.

There is no such thing as paint-primer.  Paint companies tell you that to take your money.  Their marketing claim is based on painting surfaces which are close to ideal - that is to say, well prepared and primed, with no material variations.

By "material variations" I mean material, color, porosity, chemical differences, anything which might "print through" because the topcoat reacts differently to it.  I'm not referring to physical roughness like brush stipple or high spots. The purpose of primer is to bind to the underlying surfaces no matter what they are, seal them, and make them "equal" to the topcoat, so the topcoat applies uniformly and reflects exactly the physical terrain, without visible glitches for any other reason.

Done right, you will not see where wood meets marble, an area was previously painted, or where a cat peed on bare drywall.

You also need to remove surface contaminants which would foul the primer (oil, acids) or prevent adhesion (wax, silicones, linseed oil). In machinery paint, that's the classic 2-cloth wipedown with solvent.  Water is a solvent, but too many contaminants are immune to it, so you need to use a chemical solvent or strong soaps, e.g. the classic TSP.  You need to get the soap residue off.

Invariably when paint fails, somebody skipped one of these steps.

Why are the oil brush strokes still visible?  Is this contamination like acid which is fouling each layer? (remove it).  Or is it physical irregularity/bumps (sand it down).  A build primer is specifically meant to be sanded.  It will leave brush stipple marks far more than a topcoat will, but it's easy to sand.


Check your feeder size
That feeder coming off those 100A breakers needs to be either #3 copper or #1 aluminum.  If it is #2Al / #4Cu, then you must downgrade the 100A breakers to 90A.  Those are the rules, I don't write them.  If you were misinformed that #2/4 is good for 100A, that happens a lot because people love to misinterpret 310.15(B)(7), or blindly "take on faith" answers from others who did so.
If conduit fill allows, lean toward aluminum wire. It's always worked fine on large feeders like this.
Accommodating that extra conduit
No need to crack the wireway issue.  We can do this another way: install a splice box within 2' of the panel, and fit maximum conduit size between splice box and panel.
Pick either the feeder/conduit on the left, or the feeder/conduit on the right.
Pull out the existing feeder   Note the concentric knockout that it comes in, is not at its maximum available size.  Break off the concentrics so it is at its maximum size (2-1/2"??).
Install a new large metal junction box below the service panel.  The top hole gets a hole in the top the same size as the knockout you just opened up.   The bottom gets a hole fit for attaching the existing conduit (1-1/4"?)
Install an EMT or Rigid metal conduit nipple that is less than 24" long between the service panel and this new box.
The existing conduit will be in the way of the new box.  Cut the existing conduit out of the way, and apply fittings so it now enters the new box.
See what we did there? You now have a 2-1/2" (?) pipe from the service panel to new box, and a 1-1/4" (?) pipe going wherever that conduit currently goes.
Now, pull the wires back into it.   We're back to status quo ante.
Now, bring your NEW conduit into the side of the new box.  Pass its wires through the box and up to the service panel through that nice fat conduit.   Voilà!
If other conduits are in the way, like that 1/2" conduit, bring them into the new splice box also. More's the merrier!


Updating old Lennox thermostat - wiring confusion

It appears that you have a thermostat that is designed to control a standard split-system heat pump. However, the wiring color code does not follow what I would call a conventional design. The control wiring for these heat pumps are fairly sophisticated.  You may want to consult a Lennox dealer for help.  Or a standard HVAC dealer for help with the control wiring.  Good Luck.


Need help identifying weird sized sewer pipe in older house

It could be Orangeburg (bituminized) pipe, which was used for decades up to the 70s. I'd remove as much as you can, and then use a shielded Fernco adapter (clamping steel and rubber), sized to the outside diameter. Be careful not to crush the old stuff.

Disclaimer: I have no idea if this meets code.


How big is your hot water tank, and how high is the thermostat set? It sounds like you're running out of hot water, so you have to keep turning up the valve so the (now cooler) hot water can compensate


There may be a problem depending on the model you have the s2-lf-wh model 300w on the dimmer it was not clear if they used a different type of control on the 2 sides it just stated 300w 2.5amps. The other models s2-lfsq-wh show single pole 300w for the fan and 150w for the light on this model it may damage the electronics if hooked up backwards. With most electronic controllers a flash can be a bad thing so I would want to correct the issue just in case so your nice new switch keeps working for years.


Can I merge two ceiling light fixtures into one with two wall
  switches?

To answer your first question, yes.  Almost all light fixtures have a white and black  wire for each individual socket.  Simply send one to each switch.

  Do I just make one of the wall switches a three-way?

Well you will need a "traveler" (extra wire) between the switches for a 3-way.  There are a couple of different ways to wire a 3-way here but if your walls are closed and you don't want to open them then the answer is, no.


What is recommended to install hardwood floor on slab in Tampa, FL?

There is nothing wrong with putting engineered flooring on your slab in Florida.  It can last a really long time and I have installed it in my own home on slab and helped with other homes.

Buy a really good wood.  Make sure that you really give it a scratch test.  Get samples and whatever.  I used to take pennies, screwdrivers, smack my wife heals, all kinds of things on the samples.  Let me tell you that most (80%) scratch easy.
Don't buy any engineered flooring that has mdf backing.  Wood backing only.
The thicker the better.  Don't let anyone talk you into flimsy engineered flooring, telling you thickness doesn't matter.  IT DOES.
The underlayment... Normally I say rigid foam then 3/4" plywood then light flooring pad... But this is FLorida and you don't have the insulation issues.  I would look for 1/2" rigid foam sheets but this depends on manufacturer.
I would wait 3-4 weeks for both house and wood in conditioned space.
I would also cut out the bottoms of the drywall so that you can use the drywall - probably 1/2" - as you expansion gap.  This will allow you to use whatever trim you want without quarter round.
I wouldn't have the builder install any flooring.  This will just cost you money and might hinder some of the engineered flooring installation.
Overall thoughts on engineered flooring on a slab in Florida vs tile or whatever...  Obviously carpet is the easiest to do and the easiest to deal with.  Tile though can have major issues.  If your slab settles or cracks or whatever the tile will crack and have issues.  The engineered flooring will handle smaller cracks without any issues.  Major cracks, it depends.