How should my sconce light be connected?

The Europeans and the rest of the world are harmonizing on a color standard as follows:

Hot - Brown (and several other colors as needed, including gray)
Neutral - Light Blue
Ground - Yellow with green stripe, or the reverse, or green, or bare

According to trade deals with those nations, we must honor their color scheme for appliances from European providers.  Our own scheme is:

Ground: same
Neutral: white or gray
Hot: every other color, or one of those colors taped on a white or gray

The NEC allows light blue for neutral in certain cases, an obvious nod to our treaty obligations.

However... Anything you install must be listed.   To be more precise, it must be a device approved by your AHJ (your local electrical inspector) and they simply rely on listings issued by UL, the main American testing lab.

Due to our treaty obligations, we must also honor listings to equivalent standards done by their testing labs such as CSA, TUV, etc.  All these labs operate internationally so a German company might get UL listing for a fixture to be sold in the EU.  CE is not a listing agency.  RoHS is not a listing agency.  Chinese suppliers are notorious for faking listings.


You probably have studs and drywall/plaster like the rest of the wall and a cutout where the fireplace is mounted with the chimney going up the outer wall. The brick and mantel probably go back to the unfinished wall.


How to predict when the electrical infrastructure on my 1950s rental is going throw a breaker?

A breaker will trip according to its trip curve, at 40°C (104°F). In this condition, it should be able to carry 100% of the rated load. So if you have a 20 ampere breaker, at 40°C it should be able to carry 20 amperes. It's often recommended (and sometimes required), to only load a circuit to 80% its capacity.

In most cases, devices are listed by the amount of watts they use, rather than the amount of current they draw. Luckily it's fairly easy to convert back and forth, as long as you know the system voltage.

Watts = Volts * Amperes, Amperes = Watts / Volts.

So a 20 ampere breaker on a 120 volt system, should be able to supply 2400 watts.  Applying the 80% safety margin, that's 1920 watts.  A 15 ampere breaker can supply 1800 watts at 100%, or 1440 watts at 80%.

To estimate how much power you're using, add the wattage rating of all the devices on the circuit.


Water pump that will not block water in case of power loss

A simple solution would be to install a full sized bypass with a check valve, which ties in downstream of the pressure tank. This would allow full system flow in the case of pump failure. You could then use a pump of whatever type fits your needs most efficiently and effectively, and would need not be concerned about flow restriction through the pump.

You do not mention the nozzle activation mechanism but we must assume that the heads are closed unless opened due to fire melting a fusible/frangible element at the head(s) or other mechanical means. So... under static conditions the system would remain at the pressure held by the tank diaphragm, which would be above mains pressure (because it was pumped). Upon opening/activation of a spray nozzle then the tank would deliver until pressure drops enough for mains pressure to then lift the check valve and flow into the system, around the pump and tank assembly.

sorry for crude drawing of bypass with check valve


Sometimes need to tap sump pump for it to turn on. Common causes?

There are 2 things I have found with floats controlling pumps of all sizes.

The first is corrosion and dirt buildup limiting float travel so the foot sticks and the contacts are open until tapped.

The 2nd is burned contacts. I have found with frequent cycling the contacts get pitted and may not close. On larger pumps the contacts usually can be cleaned but on the smaller pumps they are not serviceable. A tap on the pump many times will get the pump running for a while but once the contacts start failing a new switch will be needed.

Some pumps have provisions where the float has a cord and the pump has a cord. In this case a new float is can be installed.


Its an 8:1 ratio, it can be bags, cups, shovels, whatever measure you use as along as its 8 parts sand to 1 part cement. The area your looking to fill is it small where your measure will be cups or larger were you would use shovels. Once you know your unit of measure, you can use the right amount with little waste.


What size pocket hole screw for 1.5x1.5 miter?

The size of pocket hole  screws are determined by the thickness of the wood or material you are joining not by the type of joinery. I.E. butt joint or miter joint.
There is a guide that comes with the kreg system that will tell what size screw you need for the thickness of wood you are working with. (You do not say if your wood is 1.5 thick or 1.5 wide, it is the thickness that matters)
Note: There are other pocket-hole screw systems, this happens to be the one i purchased.
For 1 1/2" material it is a 2 1/2" screw


According to International Residential Code, you can bore a hole with a diameter one-third the depth of the joist. You have to keep the hole 2" from the top or bottom of the joist.

For a 2x10, you can bore a hole up to 3" in diameter.

9.25" / 3 = 3.08333" diameter

However, this is only for sawn lumber.  If the floor is made up of engineered joists, you'll have to talk to an engineer.


Any recommendations for smoke detectors with wireless remote alarms?

I have First Alert Onelink in my home. It has a voice notification that indicates the location of the module activated to all other modules. (I have 4 in my home) There are hard-wired and battery powered units. They also use a photoelectric smoke sensor that reduces nuisance alarms from normal smoke or steam.

I personally don't know about the barn issue or the wireless range; but they have quite a few options among the models on the First Alert site.


Can you save money with a humidifier and air conditioner combo?

Potentially, but not in the way you suggest. Evaporative coolers (aka swamp coolers) are an efficient way of cooling by adding moisture to the air. If the relative humidity is already high, then the additional moisture will need to be removed, with either an AC system or a dehumidifier, and any benefit will be lost and you will be worse off. If the relative humidity is low, then the additional moisture of the evaporative cooler is not an issue, and might even be desirable. In this case, there would be no need for an AC system or a dehumidifier.

If the relative humidity is moderate, you may be able to use both an evaporative cooler and an AC system. When the relative humidity is slightly low and the temperature is high, turn on the cooler. When the humidity is high and the temperature is high, turn on the AC system. Finding the perfect balance between temperature, humidity, and efficiency is going to be very hard.


Does this water heater pipe need repaired ASAP?

Yes, I would replace that right away.  I wouldn't touch it without the proper replacement parts on hand, since you don't know the depth of the corrosion.

Agreeing with other answers, you need a dielectric between the tank and the copper.  Although they claim to be dielectric nipples (T-575 is apparently a dielectric nipple, and I think that's what the label says) I don't see how that is possible as it's directly connecting the copper to the steel.

The corrosion on the steel may also be indicative of the condition of the inside of the tank.


How to remove dried hot glue from a closed door?

Carefully cut as much of the glue as possible with a utility knife. With a small pry bar, cats paw, or flat bar gently pry at the gap. If you can, cut some more glue while prying. you may also consider wedging  a paint scraper,( not to be confused with a putty knife) in the gap, then hitting it with a hammer.  At this point you have to weigh the risk of damage to the door opening against maybe burning down the house melting the glue.


It looks rather like the door is interfering (touching) with the frame somewhere. Watch the door carefully as you close it and see if it touches anywhere. Even a slight interference can cause that issue.

This can sometimes be corrected by adjusting the hinges. If that does not work you may need to add a spacer behind the hinge, maybe a couple of washers, to offset the door a little from the frame on the hinge side. That should provide enough clearance for the door without being overly noticeable.


How do I properly size an air conditioner for a very sunny room?

This page from Energy Star gives some good basic guidelines.

  If the room is heavily shaded, reduce capacity by 10 percent.
  If the room is very sunny, increase capacity by 10 percent.
  If more than two people regularly occupy the room, add 600 BTUs for each additional person.
  If the unit is used in a kitchen, increase capacity by 4,000 BTUs.
  Consider where you install the unit. If you are mounting an air conditioner near the corner of a room, look for a unit that can send
  the airflow in the right direction.

I'd say your room fits the "very sunny" definition.


How many "blocking" pieces do I need for a finished basement wall?


Replaced ceiling light with a ceiling fan and light, then added a remote control

Sorry, this site is new to me. I got the ceiling fan and light working correctly with the remote I installed. Turns out that I had it wired correctly and just didn't realize I had to hold down the light button on remote control to increase the light brightness. I also figured out all I had to do to get the fan speeds working was to have the fan on high first,  then the low, medium, and high settings worked on the remote. And this was without having to disconnect the remote. Also,  the universal remote control I purchased did not come with  an installation user's manual
Thank you all for your kind and patient help and support!


Range hood vented to outdoors.
Overlay heat resistant materials over cabinet, CBU/porcelain tile or CBU/stainless steel sheeting

CBU = Cement Backer Unit AKA Cement Backer Board


Why Would Hot Water Arrive at Faucet Faster Than Before?

The first thing you can do is verify if the outgoing hot water pipe is hot or warm when you are not using hot water. If that is the case then you have a leakage somewhere.

You can also verify your watermeter. If you do not use any water then the meter should not move. If the meter rotates than you can be sure that you have a consumer, in fact an unwanted leakage somewhere.


Do I have to secure an IKEA TV stand to the wall?

No, nothing to do.

If you download the assembly instructions for MOSJÖ you won’t see anything about a bracket for attaching the item to the wall, and there isn’t one included in the package.


I would honestly cut the back off that cabinet.  Recreate the backing on it and hang it up again so it is flush with the others.  That is the easiest way and will look the best.

Procedure:

remove doors
remove cabinet from wall - unscrew
carefully measure depth of other cabinets and scribe that depth around the entire perimeter of cabinet in question
cutout piece with circular saw - dremel might help too
carefully removing backing pieces from cut part
recreate backing to ensure integrity of hang (take a photo so you do it right) - this is probably the only difficult step but remember you can make mistakes because not much is showing
screw back on wall - might need to shim it so it is perfect with current cabinets
put doors back on


240v baseboard heater on a 120v circuit using a step up transformer ?

Heaters are cheap. There'd be no reason to do this!

An electric heater is one of the simplest appliances in the world -- so it is inherently very low-cost.  It's not cheaply made, it's just simple enough it doesn't cost very much to make one.

It will be cheaper to buy the right heater than adapt the wrong heater.

I imagine you got this thing gifted to you, and you have no idea how much heaters actually cost.  Go find out; the typical baseboard heater is a Cadet, and they are around $50 for a big one.  You can't buy a step-up transformer for that, you are in peril of spending $150 to change the voltage on a $50 heater. Don't do that lol.

Now if you're stuck with the common receptacle circuit in your house, Those circuits are not magic.  They cannot carry unlimited amounts of power, in fact USA circuits are particularly limited to a measly 1440W, or just one of those portable heaters.  So it wouldn't matter if you got a big baseboard heater that is 120V, you couldn't hook it up anyway.

Contrast with a properly wired 240V circuit, which can carry 3840 watts, or almost 3x as much, that is why baseboard heaters are mostly 240V.


Taping drywall and cementboard butted together

Since you will put tile over the seam and also, I assume, thinset you should use screws and mesh made for concrete board.
The cement board and thinset may contain things which reduce efficacy of typical drywall screws, compound, and tape. Don't tape the seam until you're installing the tile.
Behind the cabinets you can use standard compound.


Gas Water Heater leaking water out of the temperature and pressure valve. Could the water pressure regulator contribute to the issue?

The T&P valve on your water heater should be "exercised", that is, lifted and allow water to flow from it at least once a year and should be replaced when bad. I, replace mine every 5-6 years just to be safe. They do not cost a lot of money and keep you safe. A stuck or frozen T&P valve can do a lot of damage. As others have said, if you do not have an expansion tank installed near your water heater, it would be a good investment to install one. If you want or need to check the water pressure in your home you can buy a pressure gauge in any hardware store or the orange or blue store that will screw onto a hose thread. My 2 cents.


What Paint Finish (flat, satin, etc) Should I Use in a Rental Property?

Good question Nick.  I manage several rental units and have dealt with the same situations. Originally, flat paints were used in most of the rentals and almost every couple of years they needed repainting especially if kids were in the unit. Flat paint is hard to wash and very susceptible to marring and finger prints etc. The newer flat enamels are better, but not great. I changed over to a harder eggshell finish. Depending on the time a tenant is there, the eggshell really outlasted flat, usually good for 3 to 5 years unless damaged. Satin enamel works great for ceilings, hides marginal imperfections and very easy to clean between tenants. I have also found that since looks is more important than durability, I have used a lot of PVA grade wall paints from Ben Mor. At contractor price, it can be almost half as expensive than premium grade paints, covers well, lasts for several years. I have given up on expecting paints to be show ready after a few years in a rental. Cleaning and touching up walls takes almost as long as painting so a new quick same color wall paint job between tenants freshens up the place and smells new when showing the apartment. I tend to use just a couple of colors for most everything, so I buy 5 gal cans for economy, batch small leftovers and treat older paints with Flotrol. Be sure to keep the color formula in a notebook (ask for an extra sticker) so you can buy a good match later. Changing colors always requires two coats, but one coat of same color is normally fine. You can use your leftovers with new paint if you strain it through a mesh colander and batch it with your new paint, thus slight color changes disappear.


For the obsolete type of sensor you are using, you're doing better than many.

There are two ways a sensor can get power.   One is to bring a hot and neutral wire to the sensor location.  However, many sensors are retrofitted where a plain switch had been, and  plain switches do not require a neutral wire, so there isn't one.

So the other type was developed.  It gets power by leaking a small amount of power through the entire circuit, including the lamps.   Thats not enough to light up an old incandescent bulb.  But it is enough to light some LEDs since they are so efficient.

You are probably stuck with it unless you switch to the other motion-sensor type. Or make one of your bulbs incandescent.


Are the joist repairs in my home safe and correct?

I tend to answer in practical terms, and not in strictly code-compliant or legal terms. In cases like this, code doesn't really apply since it's old work and you're making improvements. We're only talking two joists, right? That's not so terrible.

No, this repair was not done well. Short joist patches only work if they're fastened really well. These aren't.
No, your floor won't immediately collapse (unless you store grand pianos or stacks of aquariums above).
Yes, I would seek to fix the situation. Full-length sistering isn't normally too difficult. I'd do that, and take precautions such as temporary posts if you're removing lumber to fit new. The sting in your wallet will only be due to the crazy price of lumber at the moment.


I would suggest spending some time reading the code applicable to your area - for me, that's the IPC (with a few local changes) and it's easily available on-line.
Pretty much the entire point of vents (that pipe in the middle that goes up) is to prevent siphoning of traps. So, no, that should not be subject to siphoning the trap when using the other fixture, since there appears to be an adequate vent. That's a perfectly acceptable arrangement - well, it might be missing a required clean-out, at least under UPC, as I understand UPC (but I don't spend a lot of effort on it since it does not apply to me.) What code section makes you think it's not?
That is a "Double-Tee" or "Cross" - it's not particularly superior to using a pair of Tees. At toilet scale it can even be a problem (and you'll find that in the codes if you read them.)


"Water hammer" (the noise) is caused by suddenly stopping the flow of water in a pipe and creating a "shock wave" because water cannot compress and yet has kinetic energy when moving. The cure for water hammer is to have a valve that closes slowly so the kinetic energy dissipates slowly, or to trap air in the piping system so that the air can absorb the energy by compressing. That's why you will often see little "pipes to nowhere" inside of the walls.

There are also specific devices called "water hammer arresters" that are similar and have a little bladder or piston inside that serves the same function.

So the fact that it USED to work fine, points to something having changed. Fixing or replacing just the valve may NOT fix the problem. So for example if you have a piston type arrester on the hot side and the piston has failed, it no longer absorbs the shock wave. A good plumber would know this. So he may know this and by turning the water off to that valve, of course the problem goes away. He may be trying to up-sell you on replacing the entire shower valve because then he tears open the wall to replace it, he will also replace the arrester and this solves the problem.


HVAC transformers are commonly rated 24 volts, 40 volt-amperes (VA).  So they should be capable of providing about 1.6 amperes.

40 VA ÷ 24 V = 1.666666 A

However, the amount of current flowing, depends on what load is connected. If the load is only drawing 5 mA, then only 5 mA will flow on the wire.


I've used mini (compact) hacksaws or multi saws, and a bit of patience.

An oscillating multitool might also do the job.

Carefully heating the nut with a torch, can sometimes loosen it up. Just make sure you've rinsed/wiped away any penetrating oil you've applied.


Meaning of flickering light on outlet tester

Outlet testers indicate status by the combination of lights – “Correct” is just a combination of the two yellow/amber lights for “open ground” and “open neutral”. So yours is actually flickering between the “correct” and “open ground” states, meaning there is some sort of ground connection, just a very poor/unreliable one that shouldn’t be used.

This article from the Circuit Detective has an explanation of all the possible combinations of lights on a typical outlet tester, including dim/flickering ones.


This appears to be very shoddy workmanship. I can't tell a lot about how plumb the walls may or may not be but the wallboard has to be done properly in order to get good results once the tile is applied. However, it doesn't appear the tiler is very knowledgeable or skilled with properly installing tile. He/she should be using spacers between all of those tiles in order to control the gap between tiles. That's tiling 101.
It's always a good idea for jobs of this type to get referrals. Don't just accept the lowest bid.
IMO - I think the job needs to be redone.


Difference Between Flashing Drain and On-Grade Drain?

Just read the brochure, its all in there.

On-Grade Drains
on-grade floor drains are for use in
ground-level applications, or where a waterproofing
membrane is not needed.
Flashing Drains
Flashing drains are typically installed when
a waterproofing membrane is used to protect finished
areas under the drain.

you are going to want an on grade drain for almost all basement slab applications


How do I replace an old ladder's anti-scratch strip?

I would use a strip of UHMW plastic it won’t wear out and can be held in with counter sunk screws  I have 2 strips of this plastic on the bunks for my boat and over 25 years of use they still look great, no marking on the boat hull.

I would not use a self adhesive strip as with pressure they can move and that would not be good in this case.


Safety of 3-Way Lightbulb That Exceeds Max Wattage Only On Highest Setting

No.

A three way bulb has two separate filaments that are lit separately by two separate contacts on the bottom of the bulb. The three way socket allows each of these filaments to be lit separately or together.

A 50-100-150 watt bulb has a 50 watt filament and a 100 watt filament. It draws 150 watts only when both filaments are lit at the same time.

If you put a three way bulb in a conventional socket, only the center contact will be lit. In your case, that would be the 100 watt filament. This does not exceed the max rating and you are fine.


Why do some door locks require the key to be twisted twice?

It's for security, making the lock harder to pick. About twice as hard. First you have to pick it to rotate the cylinder. Once it travels 360 back to the upright, the pins pop out from behind the rotatory sheath and must be re-picked to continue the final leg of the journey. With a key this is instant, but with a single-pin pick it doubles the (at least) the typical pick time.

Depending on the mechanism (if the key is "stuck in" when unlocked "halfway") it can prevent bumpkey attacks as well since you can't pull back the bumper once the key is affixed. Some of what isherwood notes applies as well, tangentially, because high-security locks that have such a mechanism also have thicker/longer bolts and more robust mechanisms that require additional torque, compared to a crappy kwikset or schlage a residential customer might get at a box store.


Should this section of water line be replaced?

This can be a problem with old galvanized pipe if you had pieces break inside I would expect the same or worse here. I would purchase a kit for an emergency repair because my experience has been when 1 piece crumbles the rest is in similar shape. You should look into driving some ground rods also years ago houses only had 1 ground the water pipe, I have worked in a community that removed the metal pipe and installed plastic but they did not install ground rods, people were getting shocked so it would be a good idea to add them now while you are working in that area. Changing from galvanized to copper don’t forget to get a dielectric Union this keeps the copper from creating a circuit with the galvanized pipe and electrolysis eating the pipe in short time. After seeing the latest photo I would plan to replace everything from the Union on the meter to the house. This still could turn into a can of worms but I have had fewer problems with heavy cast than galvanized, the galvanized usually corrodes where the threads are cut through the zinc coating just as yours probably will.


Will the light fixture be able to replace my current light fixture?

Should be fine.

The old fixture has 2 hots, one going to each lamp socket.  They both go to the same place - a single "hot" supply wire.  That's where your new fixture's "hot" goes.

You'll probably see something similar with the neutrals.  You might see 2 neutrals coming in from the ceiling and joining the 2 from the old lamp.  If so, join those two and the one from the lamp.

The wires look ample for what the lamp is listed for -- 60 watt incandescents.  The reason for the restrictions is fire from the heat of those bulbs overheating the fixture.  So any bulb which consumes more than 60 actual watts is improper.  As far as CFLs, the fixture won't overheat from a hypothetical 60-watt-actual CFL (which would be bright), but I think they are trying to tell you the "bulb" would fail prematurely because the fixture is too confined for it too cool properly. (among other things CFLs are designed to run base-down not sideways).  And this is a guess by the fixture manufacturer.

Since the year is 2017, I assume you'd use LEDs. They don't cool as well as CFLs, but have better heat sinks and much better efficiency in lumens per watt. You can also get directional LEDs which only light one "side" of the "bulb", so in a fixture like this you're not wasting energy lighting the top of the fixture.  So there's no problem getting plenty of light - for instance two 13W's directionals would be 3000 lumens of well-aimed light, that's as much as two 48" fluorescent tubes (rather quite a lot, and probably more than you want).

You were wise to take a "before" picture.  Many people fail to do this and wind up lost.


What should I look for when buying a frameless mirror?

Use a straight edge to make sure there are no high spots on the wall.As the glass will not flex if the wall has an outward bulge the glass may break when you tighten the mounting brackets.Make sure that nothing will contact the mirror during regular activities,opening doors ,cabinets,drawfronts etc.It is also not advisable to mount it next to a doorway such as a bedroom door as it might be confused with the exit in an emergency.Think middle of the night and the smokealarm going off.


Tips on how to install laminate over existing flooring

I would cut a 3/4" strip of flooring and use some construction adhesive to fasten it to the edge of the stair and install the stair nose up against it with some adhesive. That won't expand and contract like the flooring might. Then fit the perpendicular pieces snug up against the back edge of the nose or underneath it if it's designed to overlap a bit. You might need a drop or two of adhesive on a few of those members to hold them down at the edge of the nose. Good luck.


Room by room finish after electrical rough-in?

Is it possible to pull a few new circuits? Many older homes were wired similar to yours. Breaking out the bathrooms and kitchen electrical to there own circuit is one of the things I used to do when remodeling. If I understand your question you want to remove the outlets and light fixtures.  Then use tape to protect the exposed wires. This may work depending on how the outlets are wired. If the outlets are pig tailed so only one set of wires go to the outlets or fixture your plan will work fine. If there are multiple sets of wires going to the outlets or fixture these will need to be combined using a wire nut or splicing device legal in your area. By adding 1 short piece of wire to the splice re-connecting the outlets will be easier and a piece of tape on the end of the short wire will work the same on your new pig tail to protect the live wire.

Added from comment as requested:You can do 1 room at a time. The "ring circuits" this means one outlet feeds another. These will need to be pig tailed as described above so all the circuits will work then the order you do the rooms wont matter. If you start at the first room with power make sure to tape all the Hot wires because when you energize the first room the wires going to the second will be live. but both methods will work.


How to drill holes in 3/8" thick steel plates?

3/8" mild (hot-rolled) steel isn't difficult to drill, but any bit will fail if you get it hot enough to melt the cutting edge. Each hole should take no more than a minute.

Use a sequence of sizes (1/8", 1/4", 3/8"). This makes for quicker drilling and allows each bit to cool between uses. If you only have "pilot point" bits on hand, use a starter bit that's no larger than the pilot on the next bit to keep things centered.
Use a lubricant. Common household oil is probably adequate.
Keep the bit in alignment. Binding generates heat much more quickly than the cutting process itself.
Cool the bits while they're not being used. A fan across them would do well, or lay them on a damp rag.
Keep the bits sharp. Dull bits create more heat (in the bit and in the operator). A bit sharpener is a great investment for any DIYer, but even a bit of emery cloth can help touch up cutting edges.

More tips


How can I troubleshoot faulty motion-sensor security lights on a timer?

This is a very common type timer for light, sprinkler pumps, pool filters, etc. Start out by pulling out the yellow disk and turn it to the current time. Monitor it to see if it keeps proper time. There is an "off" tab still on the disk but no "on" tab. It looks like it might have fallen off and is still in the box. This would prevent the lights from going on. There is also a silver lever that says "on" and "off". This lever is a manual switch for anything hooked up to it and it will over ride the timer so start checking that to see if the lights go on. Then turn off the power and swing that plastic cover out of the way and check the wiring for power. Also check the bulbs to make sure they are good.


Hardware (clamp and/or spacers) to mount a horizontal pipe to a roof?

Since this seems to be a temporary canopy, messing around with the roof's integrity (by adding a few attachments) is probably not desirable:  it will cause premature aging of the roof and increase the probability of a leak.  Obviously it can be done, for example solar panels on a roof, but that adds ongoing maintenance to make sure the fastening system is rain proof.

Why not mount the frame under the eaves?  Unless the roof joists are far apart, it probably isn't necessary to run a pipe across.  Instead, fasten each horizontal pipe from the canopy's top to a roof joist (if they are exposed) or to a hefty screw.  If the gutter is in the way, then just use some baling wire between the pipe and the screw.


Seeking advise on replacing light switches (1-way, 2-way, 1-gang etc) (UK)

You need

2 x 2-gang 2-way and
1 x 1-gang 2-way

A faceplate with two switches on is two-gang.

Note that 1-gang 1-way switches are also available, slightly cheaper; this will not work in your application.

Switches that can be wired to operate from two locations is a 2-way.

(This is UK terminology. USA terminology is different.)

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/2_Way_Switching


This should be fine. A couple caveats:

You'll need at least a foot of slack. One trick is to use two junction boxes--the first to extend the cable, adding slack, and the second for the outlet. Think it through before you cut so you don't end up short anyway. All junction boxes need to remain accessible (not buried behind drywall).
Use pigtails rather than receptacle passthrough (or, worse, the backstab ports). You don't want to run a potentially heavy current between the same-side screws on an outlet if you can help it. Doing so adds extra points of failure for the downstream portion of the circuit. Bring the source wire, the downstream wire, and a jumper for the outlet together in a suitable connector, such as a yellow or red nut.
Use a large enough box for the outlet and those pigtail connections. A full-depth (17 c.i.?) single-gang box would be fine.


Carlon single-outlet box with bar hanger?

Just use an old work box.

Cut the hole in the wall to fit the box.
Slide the box in with the tabs folded down.
Turn the screws until the tabs flip out and grab the back of the wallboard.


How can I redirect the discharge of my forced air vent?

Get (or fabricate) a register deflector.


Which floor sander do I need to tidy a room and to strip paint off a deck?

The Square Buff Floor Sander is a big version of a palm sander. In other words, you attach a piece of sanding paper and the machine shakes it in some pattern.

The Floor Sander is a big version of a belt sander. Unlike a belt sander (where the sand paper comes as strips with the ends glued) the large version just takes an ordinary rectangular sheet of sanding paper. The paper is wrapped around a drum and is inserted in a notch in the cylinder to stay put.

The U-Stand Pro Random Orbit Floor Sander takes a flat sheet of sanding paper, but one cut in a circle. It is not advised to use this machine by someone without some experience, because it can easily spin out of control, damaging the floor. It must be held steady.

To summarize, for minor marks in the hardwood, use the Square Buff Floor Sander. For major marks, use the Floor Sander. Either way remember to keep moving, and steadily, to get a uniform layer off.


How many outlets for a small recording studio/media room?

I'd say you've got the first big issue figured out, which is that you need to install an electrical subpanel and it sounds like you'll have a pro install that, so it will be properly installed (ground and neutral isolated, adequate conductors, etc). You could probably get away with a 70A service in the sub panel, but why not go for 100A, just for future capacity (appliances, tools, washing machine, charging your electric car, whatever) I wouldn't run any branch circuits inside the garage smaller than 20A, personally.

Just a tiny bit of science: a 20A circuit times 120V means that you can push a maximum of 2,400 Watts on a 20A circuit. Electrical code says you have to design not to exceed 80% of capacity with a continuous load, so that's 1,920 Watts per circuit (higher momentary draw is okay, but the breaker trips at 2,400).

My inclination is to say overindulge a little and err on the side of too many circuits instead of too few. A standard 20A circuit breaker costs $7. Cheap. However, the wet blanket is that recent electrical code changes require AFCI and/or GFCI breakers almost everywhere, and those are north of $30 each.

If you're required to use AFCI breakers, then 10 20A circuits will cost you $350 in circuit breakers alone. But you might also have some problems with AFCI breakers and some of your equipment. They aren't perfect. I think that's something you probably want to research.

You don't want things like refrigerators, A/C or fans on the same branch circuits with your recording equipment. They'll put noise on the line that your equipment will pick up.

I'd say you want at least two 20A circuits (with multiple receptacles on each) for your various amplifiers and things you might occasionally bring in like keyboards.

Ideally I'd run a 20A circuit for the projector (or future 70" 4K LED) and the high-end audio receiver and other odds and ends you'll plug in there (DVR, BluRay player, Media Computer, charging cords for phones, etc.)

I'd run a circuit for the recording console and computer(s). If you aren't playing around with a DAW now, you probably will be eventually. :-)

And you'll probably end up with a server (maybe a NAS with a bunch of hard drives) for storage and some networking equipment. Chances are that you'll also use that NAS for media streaming to the TV. So maybe two 20A circuits for the console and computer and networking equipment.

Again, all else being equal I'd say indulge a little and err on the side of more circuits than less. But those expensive AFCI circuit breakers are really kind of a wet blanket.


Put it in neutral, and short the terminal on the solenoid, that the battery (+) is connected to which is a big lug, to one of the smaller terminals on the solenoid (the one that is not labelled as black in the drawing).  Assuming that they're not both black that should be easy.  There are three possibilities:  1.  There is a click and the starter motor starts to crank.  2.  There is a click and nothing else.  3.  No click, no nada.  Scenario #1 means that either your ignition switch or the clutch brake pedal up switch or the C-G contacts of the PTO switch are stuck open. It is still possible to start and use it safely if you have it in neutral and the other terminals of the start switch work (key must be set to run).  The one time that this happened to me it was the ignition switch, and I just started it by shorting out the two terminals for a month before finally getting a switch.  Scenario #2 means that either the starter motor is defective or the solenoid is defective.  It's not recommended to operate the tractor if this is the case but you can test which of these is the problem by shorting the two large lugs momentarily (just tap them lightly with something large).  If nothing happens it is the starter motor that is defective.  If it cranks then it is the solenoid that is defective.  Scenario #3 means that the solenoid is defective and needs to be replaced.  It won't be the fuse or the ammeter those are in parallel with the starter circuit.


Water taps open and running water when I come home

I have the same issue with the hot water ONLY.  Done some ‘testing’.  Mark the tap of the hot water and run some water into the bath. Close the tap and realise that it still has to go about one full turn but it feels as if it is closed.
After about 5 minutes I open another hot water tap (the basin) and suddenly the hot water in the bath starts to run.
When turning the hot water tap of the bath it easily turn the missing turn as mentioned above.
I will inspect the inside of the hot water tap in the next day or two.
In the meantime I will check my marks on the tap (and wall) everytime I have used the tap.


Carpet edgers are designed to trim a carpet to the right fit against a wall and under baseboard trim by sliding along the trim.

If you're referring to the basic utility knife, they're designed with an appropriate angle to reduce hand fatigue, but any utility knife will do fine.

A typical scissor won't have the leverage needed to shear the very heavy backing fabric (jute) that  carpet is built upon. Specialty shears may, but they'll be slow and are only suitable for small fitment work.


What kind of vent is pictured here and what are its uses?

What you show in the picture is known as a One-way Breather Vent (there are also two-way).  Its intended purpose is to provide pressure equalization throughout the roof system and also provides ventilation for the insulation system.

In some buildings that do not have a vapor barrier (even some that do), pressure changes inside the building can be forced upwards through the plywood sheeting and potentially cause the roof system to pillow upwards and damage its adhesion. The breather vent gives the pressure an avenue to escape without causing any damage to the roof.

I would not recommend venting anything through the breather vent.  Most of the time breather vents are install through the roof system and do not penetrate through the substrates.  By cutting through the insulation and plywood you're essentially turning into a general building/attic vent and losing some of its effectiveness.


Fine dust particles can slip through the filter and cake up on the coil which is constantly creating moisture.

Once it is clogged the air flow will be diminished and because of that the air that gets through will be very cold. Eventually it will ice up and burn your fan motor out.

There are specific steps that need to be followed to clean the coil safely and effectively. I’d call a pro out for a service call and tell that human what happened.


Sliding bathroom barn door covering cadet heater

Do not cover that heater and a 1/2” gap is not sufficient either.

You will have to move it or re-design your door.


What is this rotting wood 'ledge' around my house? Is replacing it something I can tackle? The outdoor trim too?

If anyone has a similar odd situation this is what I did:

tore out the skirt board and this ledge
the underlying osb sheathing was rotting in parts, cut that out
some of the underlying framing was even rotting in parts.  Treated this with hardener and filled with bondo wood filler, sprayed down anit-mold for good measure
replaced old sheating with plywood, sealed with r-guard fast flash
to meet the thickness of 5/4 old skirtboard I put a layer of zip-system board and sealed it with r-guard flast flash
put pvc trim board longer than the previous skirt board to make up for this 'ledge'
sealed with osi guard caulking

issues that Im not happy with:

the height of the gap changed around the house so it was hard to cut the different boards to the right height and this created gaps that were larger than I wanted in areas required to be filled with caulking more than it should be
the z channel drip edge was bent a lot during the removal and replacement, probably should have tried to replace it, but I just tried to bang it back into place


Shower is too cold, despite cartridge setting

My solution has nothing to do with plumbing, but since you mention the problem is in your basement and only in the winter, I'll throw this out there and it may help others...

I live in an apartment on the top floor of a renovated historic building.  I like hot showers, and never was happy with the temperature of the water in the shower.  It was passable in the summer, but taking a shower became miserable when cold winter weather set in.

For a long time I assumed the problem was that the water cooled down while traveling through pipes up to the top floor from a water heater that is presumably in the basement, and that lower ambient temperature in the winter made that worse.  I doubted the landlord would change the water heater settings just for me, so I was all set to buy one of these and this and this to fix it for myself.

But then I realized that the cold air in the bathroom was at least partly responsible for my discomfort, since I was shivering as soon as I turned the shower off.  So I made two simple changes.  Before every shower, I closed the bathroom door, and blocked off the vent fan with a plastic bag, which stays stuck to the vent cover from the suction of the operating fan.  (In this bathroom, the fan and light are controlled by the same switch.  If the light is on, the fan is on.)

It made a huge difference.  Since I don't turn up the heat that much in the apartment, showering with the door open and the fan on was pulling a basically unlimited supply of cold, dry air into the bathroom, and it was the evaporative effect on my skin making me feel extra chilled.  But it's not just that the air temperature felt warmer.  The shower water that had felt barely lukewarm before now subjectively felt hot.

I later added a space heater set to 65°F and that made the showers hot enough to turn my skin pink (the way I like showers).  Someday I might swap that out for one of those electric towel-warmer-radiant-space-heaters.

So, to summarize, if you feel the water temperature in your shower is too low, you may be able to adjust your subjective experience of the water temperature by raising the air temperature and/or humidity in the bathroom.


How do I go about making 1" and 2" thick "boards" for concrete furniture?

I did go ahead and pour a board, and have the results.
I was told sand filler instead of gravel for <= 2".
I went with just the default sand filler blend and thin steel rebar mesh (wire basically) at my local hardware store.

A 1.5" board that was about 4.5" wide and supported at 2' intervals supported 110 pounds. I had decided prior that 80 lbs would be acceptable.
I think this means that I guesstimated perfectly. A 2" board should be acceptable for high-wear areas (I am hoping it would take about 200 lbs), 1.5" for medium, and 1" for light.

So it is heavier and does support less than a wooden board. But it has some benefits (in my case it is not chewable), and only costs a couple bucks for materials.

Even better was its fail state, 110 pounds produced a hardly perceivable hairline crack on one side only, held together by the rebar mesh.


Will 1x4 or 1x6 boards span 3 feet between beams for a walking bridge?

The boards will flex something awful, which makes for an unpleasant walking experience. Tying them together with an unsupported stringer in the middle will make things quite a bit less wobbly. If the bridge is short then an X-shaped brace between the beams will give you much better support with the same look.

I personally would opt for the 1x4 if all other things were equal. Three feet is a really wide span for rotten or insect-damaged boards. Falling through a floor all the way to your hip is hilarious for everyone who sees it, but not an experience I'd be keen to repeat. With a 4" board any way you stand you're spanning two of them.


Are nail pops under vinyl flooring likely to worsen?

It will certainly worsen. The nails are probably coming up because the subfloor was not glued to the framing. Not only will more nails work up, but the vinyl will very quickly wear through in those spots.

I agree that this is certainly a warranty issue. If you're not able to get satisfaction from that, you'll need to re-fasten the subfloor and reinstall flooring. I'd probably run suitable screws at 12" intervals on all joists, then fill the dimples and overlay new vinyl. An embossing leveler may be necessary to flatten the texture of the current vinyl.


Installing a 240V 30 A outlet for EV charging

First you have to consult with your Condo HOA to see what their restrictions are and then proceed per their instructions. Otherwise your thinking about putting the mains by the meter and sub feeding your home panel and new charger is the least expensive and least intrusive of your options.


Can I still be sold plumbing fixtures that contain lead?

If you go to your local hardware store, no. Products sold in the US have to be lead free, since 1996

  In 1996 Congress further amended the Safe Drinking Water Act, requiring plumbing fittings and fixtures (endpoint devices) to be in compliance with voluntary lead leaching standards. The amendments also prohibited the introduction into commerce of any pipe, pipe or plumbing fitting or fixture that is not lead free.

Ebay is a bit of the "wild west", because you often have products sold direct to consumers from foreign countries (i.e. they bypass US regulations because they're sold and shipped from that country to you directly). It's easy to find Chinese or Indian products on there, and neither country has that prohibition against lead. So, yes, you probably need to screen on Ebay. If it's a serious concern for you, just buy from a US company or your local hardware store.


How to fix damaged wires in receptacle box in new installation?

I don't think that leaving a 4" tail in a box instead of a 6" is the worst code offense you can commit. The reason it is in the code is to match up with the NESC (National Electric Safety Code). This allows while doing maintenance on the device to pull it clear of interference and perform work on it safely.

You could do what Jim Stewart suggested, just make sure you have the right color code, you attached a pigtail to it, or you could check to see what the AHJ has to say about it and let him make the final decision on whether to allow it or extend it.


What is the best way to replace the subfloor under load bearing wall

If that wall is not a load bearing wall, and from your pictures it sure does not look like it, you could consider just dismantling it temporarily. Then just pull up the bottom plate. This would leave you fully open to replace the sub-flooring after which you can just rebuild that short piece of wall. It is only 5 studs and less and about two additional sheets of new drywall.

From your other pictures it certainly appears that you have quite a bit of rebuilding work to do already so re-doing that wall would not be too much additional.


Why do I need a shower faucet cartridge?

A shower faucet cartridge is a type of valve. It's the part that a single handle faucet is moving inside the plumbing fixture to adjust the flow and temperature. They tend to have o-rings and other parts that fail over time, which can result in a variety of issues, including leaks, and the hot and cold water mixing when they shouldn't, even when the fixture is turned off.


Pry up some of the cut so you can apply a fresh adhesive
Apply some vinyl flooring adhesive (preferably in caulk tube form since you don't need much) to the floor
Press the flooring down and wipe up any excess adhesive
After letting the adhesive cure, apply seam sealer to the edges to make the floor seamless


My door has flat sections with no panel design . I wanted something stronger than thin aluminum to attach the opener to , so I added a piece of 1/2 plywood about 48" X 16" to the aluminum using 21 screws ( I just went out and counted them ).  Then attached the door pull to the plywood . Possibly overkill but after white paint no one knows it is there.


Seeking Alarms Suggestions for open refridgerator

There is a reason that refrigerators do not have internal electrical outlets and that reason is so that people do not die.

Generally, that socket is a bad idea because a refrigerator is cool and when warm humid air enters, it will condense. The amount of condensation could easily rise to a level beyond that at which the socket is electrically safe.

Unlike other outlets in the rest of a kitchen, the National Electrical Code has not, historically, required ground fault protection for outlets serving refrigerators and other major appliances. A strict interpretation of the 'major  kitchen appliance exception is why many jurisdictions prohibit duplex outlets in the area where a refrigerator is designed to go.


Conduit / Best practices for a shared ground between branch circuits in residential?

You can barrow a ground from another circuit as long as they come from the same panel or grounding electrode conductor.
The size of the grounding conductor depends on the branch circuit. See table 250.122.
the maximum required size is 6awg when connecting to the existing GEC. (Even if tying into a #4 ufer ground or concrete encased electrode)
The minimum size is 14 awg if you are grounding a 15 amp circuit and since you won’t find anything smaller that makes 15 amp circuits Easy.
When you have a larger circuit let’s say a 60 amp you have to use a #10 ground
So you have to ground off of a #10 ground or larger (most electricians will pull a (#10 and use that for multiple branch circuits) if I am doing an entire home I will pull a #10 unless actually grounding a sub then I go #6 (I don’t carry #8 normally)
I run the length of the home in the crawl space or attic and drop a j box every 20’ or so. (Yes boxes are needed and the box it self requires a ground to the box if there is a splice in the box.)
If tapping the ground from a higher amperage circuit inside that is ok.
I do not run grounds in conduit unless outside and smaller than #6.
So just run 6 to a outside location.
Thhn/thwn dual rated green # 10 is my normal wire but it can be bare.
If in conduit, No you don’t color the conduit green.
I think I hit all of your points.


High water level in toilet bowl after flushing

You can't adjust the bowl water depth - it's set by the height of the trap that's cast into the bowl.  However, you can adjust the water depth in the tank as suggested by @Daniel Griscom.

There also might be an obstruction in the trap that's artificially raising the height.  Plunge and/or snake should take care of that.


My dishwasher water line is frozen. Can I manually put in hot water in the dishwasher to run it?

I am the original person who wrote this.  My dishwasher is in the corner of the kitchen.  Someone once remodeled the kitchen & took out the door that use to be there.  Unfortunately they didn't insulate the wall they replaced it with.  As a result that corner of this house gets really cold.  I have tried using a small heater in the enclosed space next to the dishwasher but that didn't resolve the problem.  I've also used a hairdryer under it; still no luck. It doesn't leak anywhere which always amazes me. For 8 years now the dishwasher doesn't work once it gets bitter cold here in Wyoming, but works fine starting in late Spring.

So I wanted to know if I could just put in hot water when the proper cycle arose?  My dishwasher is now 10 years olds so I decided, "What the heck? Worse outcome: buy a new dishwasher".  No one had an answer so I decided this year to just do it.  I put in 1 1/2 gallons for the pre-wash, wash & rinse cycles.  This required being in the kitchen the entire time so I didn't miss a cycle.  WORKED FINE in my Kenmore dishwasher.  Hope others have the same luck.

I don't use my dishwasher but once every 3 weeks or so (I hand wash a lot) & I was recently told I should use it every week.  Something about them sitting isn't good.  So I'll try that also & see if that prevents it from 'freezing up' (I'm still keeping the little heater next to it on too.)


Getting single handle faucet off with no set screw

Perhaps the screw is from underneath and the assembly needs removing first.
Had a similar tap to deal with and the top slid into the body - with several o rings and was held in place by a set screw from the base. Only way was to remove it from the sink first.


Why is only one of seven wires in my light box live?

This house needs AFCI breakers.  Badly.

It has old cloth-wrapped AC or MC cable, which has perished badly. You already see horrendous arc damage on one of the bottom wires; that kind of thing burns houses down.  And AFCI breakers detect that type of arc-faulting, and trip the breaker to stop it.

That cable has to go.

Every single one of these cables has to be replaced.  Every one. All of it.  And then, you have to search the house for any other cables in comparable condition (or get the AFCI breakers and let them protect you).

Stay with the good quality of work: metal jacketed cable/conduit and metal boxes. Clearly this site has environmental challenges where unarmored cable doesn't stand a chance.  If the cloth/rubber insulated wire is in good condition, that's fine, but it sure doesn't work here!!!

I might attribute the damage to the cloth-jacketed left cable to rats -  but how would rats get inside a steel junction box with a cover?  In any case, I would not chance any unarmored cable in this house; I'd plan on continuing to use MC cable, AC cable, or metal conduit of one kind or another.

Red-Taped Grounds

The purpose of the red tape is to defeat grounding (make the armored cable so it cannot carry ground).  That's done for one of two reasons.

The good reason: If the supply cable back to the service panel is not grounded, you want to avoid connecting gronunds onward because that will create an island of grounds.  That means a ground-fault anywhere in the island won't trip the breaker (no way back to the panel) but will instead electrify all the grounds.
The bad reason: The grounds do go all the way back to the main panel. But there is a hot-ground fault somewhere (in this wiring? How can that be? ;-b) and fault current is going back to the panel and tripping the breaker.  The repairman ignored the ground fault and stopped the breaker tripping by disconnecting the ground (!!!) which causes the island problem!

The fix to the ground issue is assure grounds go back to the main panel (retrofit if necessary), restore grounds, and then deal with any ground faults (I think I know why that might be happening... :-)


If you can't get through the floor in a hidden place, such as under an appliance or cabinet, you may need to bring someone in with high-current welder. That and an understanding of the risks will make quick work of the plug.

Random YouTube search result for vague reference


How do I test the capacitor on a high velocity fan?

A capacitor is defined as two conductors separated by a dielectric. Consequently, there is no direct electrical connection between the plates or conductors. Current only flows to charge the plates by pulling electrons out of the dielectric.

So, on a good non-polarized capacitor, connecting your ohmmeter across the capacitor should show low resistance at first and climb to overload as the capacitor charges up to the voltage of the meter and resistance to current flow increases. Reversing your leads will then yield the same result.

A shorted capacitor will show zero resistance either way.

An open capacitor will show infinite resistance either way.


Tl;dr

To get 5 gpm, you need a pressure head of about 85 ft. (i.e your inlet would have to be 85 ft above your outlet).  Of course, this is what they make pumps for!  To get 85 ft of pressure head, you need about a ~0.15-hp pump.

Detailed Answer
Someone should definitely check my math on this :P

Assumptions and constraints:

No rise or drop in pipe (i.e. you're pumping across flat ground)
Minor losses (e.g. through unions, etc.) are negligible given the large length-to-diameter ratio of the tubing run.
ID of 3/4" PVC: 0.824 in or 68.7E-3 ft (based on OD nominal of 1.050 in and wall thickness nominal of 0.113 in)
Equivalent roughness (ε) of PVC pipe: 0.000005 ft (ref. Moody & Colebrook)
Density of water (ρ) at 60 °F: 1.94 slugs/ft3
Dynamic viscosity (μ) of water at 60 °F: 2.34E-5 lb-s/ft2

Solution:

Because the diameter is constant over the length of the pipe, inlet and outlet velocities are the same.  We can assume pressures at the inlet and outlet are the same, too (large, open tanks).  So if we modify the Bernoulli equation with p1=p2=V1=V2=0, we get:

hp = (f * l * V2) / (D * 2g )

where hp is the head pressure required to make the flow, f is the friction factor of the pipe, l is the length, V is the linear flow velocity, D is the diameter (ID), and g is acceleration due to gravity.

We find V by:

V = Q/A

where Q is the flow rate and A is the area of the pipe.  Q is 5 gpm, or 11.14E-3 ft3/s (60 seconds in a minute, and 7.48 gallons per ft3).  The area of a circle is π * (D/2)2, so our area is 3.71E-3 ft2.  Thus, our velocity is 3.01 ft/s.

To find f, we need to know the ratio of equivalent roughness to diameter (ε/D) and the Reynolds number. ε/D is 72.8E-6.  We find the Reynolds number, Re, using the equation

Re = (ρ * V * D) / μ

Thus, Re for our flow is 17.14E3.  With Re and ε/D known, we determine f from the Moody Chart. f is approximately 0.0258.

Solving our original equation above for hp gives us hp = 84.5 ft

To find hp in terms of power, Php, we use the equation

Php = ρ * g * Q * hp

which yields Php of 58.8 ft-lbf/s. Converted to horsepower, this is 0.106 hp.


Can a large hole be reliably drilled in a table _by hand_?

Drill type saws that use a center pilot bit and an outer toothed ring attachment is called a hole saw. They come in a variety of types and qualities, the best being those with three parts - cup-like outer saws, center bits, and mandrels that hold them together and attach to a drill.

It is also important to get the type of saw proper for the material being cut. Some are wood only, some are suitable for laminates and other hard surfaces, and some are suited for metal. A few will work on multiple materials. Go to a well equipped hardware store and look at the choices. I agree one simple good set is a better value than a cheap multi-purpose set that may not be used.

It is totally possible to drill a hole with a hole saw by hand. The key is starting the pilot drill perpendicular to the surface. You can find small plastic guides that help get a drill started on the right angle. Then stop the drill, remove the guide and continue with the wider cut. You can be comfortable that the drill is perpendicular if it appears to be just starting to cut all around the outer drill cup.

Go slowly. I also find that taping over the surface before drilling reduces tearout (splintering). You are likely to get some tearout on the far side of the hole unless you clamp a scrap board under the area where the drill will emerge.

Question 2: A drill press is a machine that holds and very precisely lowers a drill bit (or hole saw) toward the workpiece held on a platform. If you have one, great. But most have a limited distance that they can reach from the edge of the piece. And they are fairly expensive.

Q3: You can save the plug cut with the hole saw. There is usually a slot in the cup to help removal. The plug will have a small center hole from the pilot drill. It could be reattached with a strong thick glue, but I would recommend adding a support block under the table that is glued or screwed into the underside to support the plug. Any remaining side gap and the center hole could be filled with wood filler, epoxy or other strong filler.

Whether that is aesthetically acceptable is a personal issue.

Illustrations and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


What is the best way to split a series of recessed ceiling lights to two switches?

You can remove the feed from the series of lights. At that point you can bring hot from an outlet to a switch, then up to the string you removed the feed from. Make sure to take the switched hot neutral and ground to the string--you don't want either the hot or neutral from the original feed connected to the now bedroom lights.


Congrats on your choice of materials, FYI. AAC is great stuff, totally appropriate for your climate.

Applying stucco over AAC isn't a fundamentally different process than applying it over mortared block or brick, so if most stuccoed masonry buildings in your area aren't full of cracks, you should feel more at ease. The only real difference that AAC may present a smoother surface, which could lead to worse bonding compared to a rougher brick or block. That's probably why the instructions call for a polymer-modified plaster; the polymer additives make it stickier, to promote superior bonding. The traditional way to promote bonding is with metal lath. However I honestly wouldn't recommend this in your climate since moisture will eventually rust it and the stucco will come off (rusting metal expands, cracking the stucco).

You have three options: obtain a polymer additive and instruct the stucco crew to add it to their stucco mix; hire someone to mechanically roughen up the outer wall surface before the stucco crew arrives; or let them do their normal thing and hope for the best (it will probably be fine).


PVC electrical conduit connection to service panel

Short answer: no it is not acceptable it needs to be continuous.

The pertinent article of the National Electrical Code follows:

  300.12 Mechanical Continuity — Raceways and Cables
  Metal or nonmetallic raceways, cable armors, and cable sheaths shall be continuous between cabinets, boxes, fit- tings, or other enclosures or outlets.

You could terminate the conduit into a junction box and then take a cable that is approved to be fished into walls (NM or MC) from there. Then make joints in the j-box. However, the j-box has to be accessible after it is installed.

Good luck with your project!


Is there a good way to hunt down AFCI receptacle nuisance tripping causes?

Combination-type AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) receptacles (and breakers, too) are generally be designed to trip when any of the following conditions are met:

Series-arc (arcs between hot and neutral/ground)
Parallel arc (arcs where a single wire (hot or neutral) has a defect, or bad connection)
Ground Faults (generally > 40 mA of unbalanced current)

The techniques for diagnosing tripping of receptacles are the same as for diagnosing tripping of AFCI breakers. It is pretty much taking the circuit apart until you find the problem, though there are some special meters that can make the process faster.

Arcs

The AFCI contains a microprocessor that uses proprietary heuristics to determine if an arc has occurred, for example, some number of short high current spikes within some amount of time. Unfortunately, this can also prevent the use of some "desired" loads (I'd posit that spark gap devices like Tesla coils would trip the AFCI, though I don't have any evidence of such). Older AFCIs are more sensitive to various "good" loads and may trip more easily, but the new models are reasonably resistant to false-tripping because of false-positive arcs. Certain motors and lighting (especially dimmers) can also cause tripping, though this often indicates a true problem with the motor/dimmer that should itself be corrected.

Loose connections is the circuit can cause arcs, and thus cause nuisance tripping, too.

Ground Faults

AFCIs are designed to detect ground faults, similar to GFCI receptacles. They trip when the current in the hot wire is not equal to that of the neutral.  While GFCIs are set to trip when the difference of these currents is around 4 mA, AFCIs are set to trip at around 40 mA. Ground faults occur when the neutral and ground wires are connected together downstream of the interrupter.

Troubleshooting

One way to detect ground faults is with an ohmmeter. If a ground fault is occurring, it often can be seen as a low-resistance path between neutral and ground (except for some special loads like motors). You can use an ohmmeter at the circuit breaker panel to measure the resistance between neutral and ground. Be careful about working around electricity, it is dangerous. First turn off the power to your circuit via the branch circuit breaker, or the main breaker. Verify that the power is off on that circuit, preferably by using a non-contact voltage detector on the "hot" and "neutral" wires for the circuit. Next, disconnect the neutral from the neutral terminal block. Measure the resistance between the neutral wire, and ground. It should be >10 Mohm, but if the two are shorted together in your circuit well enough to trip a ground fault device, it will be less than around 30 kohm (120 V/4mA).

After separating the circuit into parts, if the trip is gone, then you know that the parts of the circuit still receiving power are "good", and can be left connected. If the circuit still trips, then the disconnected part is likely "good", and you should leave it disconnected during further troubleshooting.

Another way to detect the ground faults is to put a large load on the circuit. I would use a space heater, but an 100W incandescent light bulb could work too. These are purely resistive loads that won't be detected as arcs. If it trip soon after turning it on, then you have a ground fault, or less likely, a bad connection causing an arc in your circuit. The ground faults could happen only when the circuit is loaded, for example when the wires heat up, and the thermal expansion causes the wires to contact each other. The fault is more likely to be detected by the AFCI when your load is closer to the actual location of the fault, so plugging your load into the AFCI receptacle itself may not cause it to trip, since the fault is too far away....

The ground fault current will be roughly proportional to the load of the circuit, so to cause the fault, you might have to have a large load on the circuit in order to cause the trip.

To correct this, you will need to go to each device (receptacle/lamp, etc), and disconnect the "upstream" from the "downstream" wiring until you find the problem. If the ground fault disappears, then you know that the fault happens in the part of the circuit that was disconnected. Divide an conquer until you have found the location of the ground fault, and fix it. Note that the problem could be inside the wall, perhaps where a nail was sunk through your electrical cable.

If the problem is an arc, the problem should be approached in the same way. Check all of your connections to make sure that they are tight, and divide the circuit until you locate the section of cable that is your problem.

I tend to think that your lights are not causing the issue because you have tried a number of different lights, and they are all causing tripping issues, but causing the tripping by using a 100W light bulb or space heater would confirm that it isn't a problem caused by fluorescent lighting. Normally the problem would be caused by a failing ballast in your fluorescent light, so that should be replaced.... The only way to further diagnose this is to see if the trip ever happens if the fluorescent are turned off. Worst case, your lights could have a little problem and your fan could have a little problem, each of which individually won't trip the breaker, but does when both are on together.

As for a "better way", Siemens has an "Intelli-arc" meter that will report the magnitude of arcing, total current, and unbalanced (ground fault) current. This tool could make your process go faster by helping you differentiate betweenn arcing and ground-fault conditions, and reporting conditions that are below the trip threshold of your receptacle. One option for beakers is to examine their indicators lights. They will report if the trip was caused by an arc, but these indicators are not on the receptacles.


Should I add a return or another supply to a large room with only one supply?

Adding a return and/or additional supplies may help. Adding a supply and a return would almost certainly help -- it might be overkill, but you could always close them off if needed.

The important point, however, is that this is a question of balance relative to other rooms. Knowing the best solution requires understanding the layout of your home and the sources of heating/cooling load. You mentioned this room has 3 windows; are they exposing this room to more solar heat gain than other rooms? Is it properly insulated? Are other rooms over-supplied? Is your home's entire cooling system undersized? All these factors should be considered before you make a change like adding ductwork. It could be that you need insulation, curtains, or even something as simple as closing vents in some other rooms.

There's a fair bit you might learn with some experimentation. Someone with HVAC expertise who can walk through your house would likely be able to evaluate quickly and suggest reasonable options. You could also have someone do detailed heat load calculations, but that may be overkill for your situation.


Honeywell Chronotherm IV Plus thermostat

The thermostat doesn't actually have a way to check your filter to see whether it is clean or not. The flashing "filter" turns on based on time - every 3 months. Resetting it (look in your manual) will make it start flashing in another three months.


How to remove some unknown sticky dirt from a window?

If it's on the window glass the simplest way to remove any foreign substance  without the risk of harsh chemicals , is with a single edged razor blade. If you install the blade in a retractable holder you can extend the reach of the blade. Hold the blade at a 25-40 degree angle.


How safe is it to use old air compressor?

That exterior rust does not look deep or concerning to me. I would try to repaint it to keep it from spreading, but I wouldn't think it to be a safety hazard.
The interior is my bigger concern. I would unscrew that plug on the bottom and look to see how rusty the interior is.


Attaching a heavy plastic object - of which I can't access the inside - to the side of an office table

Why not create a shelf-like support using two or three angle brackets to support the weight of the docking station?

The vertical leg of the bracket could be screwed into the side of the desk, and the horizontal leg (in the down position) would carry the bulk of the weight. Then the hook and loop style hangers would only be holding it tight to the desk (horizontal pressure) not carrying the weight (vertical pressure).

If the horizontal leg is too long, it could be cut off with a hack saw.

A more elegant version would be to build a wooden shelf to support the weight, but that would be a bit more complex to ensure its strength to carry the load.


Can I run the ground wire without conduit to sub panel in the same building

In turn:

Yes, you can run the grounding wire on its own as per NEC 250.130(C) point 5.  Also, since you are using a #6 wire, it can be run unprotected as per 250.120(C), although Bare Armored Ground cable may be a better bet to keep dimwits with wire cutters at bay.  However, zip-tying the new grounding conductor to the existing feeder cable is a violation of 300.11(C).  You're better off simply fishing the wire where it needs to go, or having it take its own route to the panel.
Yes, 6 AWG copper wire is an adequate grounding conductor for a 125A subpanel -- in fact, 6 AWG copper is good all the way up to 200A.  However, if you had aluminum or copper-clad wire instead, you'd need a 4AWG wire for the job.


How can I repair deteriorating concrete walls?

Concrete is a peculiar material to work with, and repairing it can be quite troublesome.
The main thing is that it is structurally sound, even after 80years that is very good news.
In my experienced opinion the best method would be...
Mix up a stronger batch of plaster(more cement or less sand), typically the ratio is  5-1 sand to cement. But many times on the bad of cement you will see guidelines. This ratio is for indoor bricks. Because your wall is already rough, jagged it provides very good grip for the layer you are going to apply. Now remember how I said concrete is peculiar.. naturally you would want to seal the old concrete before putting the new one.. this is not a good idea because concrete needs to breathe and bonds better with other concrete applied onto it. However, sealing the TOP layer will be the crucial and most beneficial step!
You are concerned about the metal parts inside the concrete... no need. Once you apply the plaster and seal the top layer, either by oil based paints or some sort of concrete sealer, the oxidization levels inside the concrete will be minimalistic.. and for the metal to completely degrade will take a few hundred years..
You do not need to particualry prepare the old concrete.. it would not hurt by hosing it down with water a bit before plastering it. Will help with bonding. You can leave any loose bits in side- just try to fill up any voids in the concrete with plaster.

As long as the pillar in that photo is deemed structurally safe.. plastering it will make it look like new

A nice typical flat finish after plastering...

Remember...
There are other ways of doing this but this is only how I would do it.


What size screws for mounting ENT electrical box with outer ears

Code is not real specific on the screw size or type but I have seen inspectors flag Sheetrock screws in plastic boxes. why?  Over tightened the plastic can crack on some boxes. I usually use #8 pan /washer style (modified truss is another name I found them under). the wider head secures the box plastic or metal better than a run of the mill screw.
But the reason I started using them is inspectors like them.
I use 3/4” or 1” whatever is cheaper sometimes the 1” are.


If the lamp fits the socket, there is no problem with it being "underpowered". This appears to be a simple socket without ballast, just an on/off switch in series.
Two possible causes of the issue:

The center contact of the "Edison base" E27 screw socket might not be making contact, particularly if another lamp pushed the contact down. Unplug the socket from the mains! Then gently pry up the unattached end of the center contact. Hopefully, this will fix it; please let me know if it works.

The lamp sold to you may indeed be defective. Return it for a replacement.


Setting minimum temperature for gas water heater

In a standard gas water heater there is no way to set a minimum hot water temperature. The thermostatic control has a pre set on/off differential.


Ready for muddy water?

If you go by solely by code,  2012 IRC Table R302.1(1) specs out a 1 hour TESTED  wall assembly with fire from both sides.  As an individual component,  IBC Specs out a 40 min rating per layer of 5/8" Type X so to have a 1 hour untested assembly you would need two layers EACH SIDE.  The only way to get the 1 hour rating is to use a ASTM or UL tested assembly.  There are hundreds of these, but not readily available to the general public.  BUT THE ABOVE INFORMATION IS VOID.  Read on.

As much as you might like to think you are dealing with code, you are not; you are dealing with a person, the building offical.  It does not matter what the code says, it is what your local building official says.  Enter the political game played by industry professionals with the code officials on projects to minimize the impact the code official have on their projects and clients pocket books.

There are hundreds of rated wall systems out there you SHOULD use but, here's the rub,  most building officials on homes seems to ignore that fact and will simply tell you what they will require you to have without using a spec sheet from a tested assembly.

Next is a bigger issue at hand here which is the IRC is littered with holes which require to be filled in with conversations between you and the building official.

In this case, the code says you need to both use a tested 1 hour assembly and you need to directly attach the OSB to the studs  (IRC Table R602.3(3) ).  This is confirmed by conflicting direction from two separate code officials.   Structurally, the OSB needs to go directly against the stud, but for fire rating, you need rated assembly that specs and/or allows OSB under the gypsum;  I can't remember seeing an assembly like that leaving you in a pickle.  And if you take it further, it (the IRC) does not clearly address what to do if a floor penetrates the rated partition or what to do at the ceiling.  Would they require you to rate the floor to 1 hour as well?  Or balloon frame and ledger the floor the rated assembly?  Put gypsum through the trusses up to the under side of the roof sheathing?  All of these things are a bit unheard of for the home because building officials do not go by the letter of the law as much as they let on.

Take a step back to your question though,

  is it OSB against the stud or gypsum?

In the end it is what ever your building official on your projects says it is.

So how do you deal with this?  I would not bring to light the conflicting information otherwise you will be left with dealing with it, not them.  They could make you address both the fire rating and the structural issues with not attaching the OSB directly.

What I would do is reason with them.  Sometimes one can have a frank discussion about a matter built on the backround of code without referencing the code directly.  I would reason the OSB is structural and would not preform its function properly if mounted on top of the gypsum.  I would also play on the common misconception the 5/8" Type X gypsum is rated for 1 hour by the code as an isolated component (Even though it is not.  Ref IBC Table 722.2.1.4(2) )  Here's the next catch, to have a successful conversation usually requires a keen knowledge of the code, buildings in general, a highly developed skill with people, and a special set of skills in dealing with building officials.  True building professionals know how to do this.

If you cannot engage in this conversation correctly, you could shoot yourself in the foot by bringing to light the conflicting information; then the official might require you to do more than they initially said because of the conflict you brought up that they feel is valid and needs addressed.

So what IS the answer?  A few possible answers (No Recommendation Here)

Do what the building official says without question (Sometimes actually the best policy)
Question for understanding from the code official; read the code with them and discuss the findings, then ask what they will  require after the discussion is done (sometimes takes days and multiple meetings and may be problematic if you not done correctly).
Re-side your house without consulting you local building jurisdiction.  Know the caveats of doing so and proceed accordingly.  (FYI You should still be prudent in your efforts meaning you can still sheath it in OSB to strengthen the home and you can put gypsum on the outside and/or inside to provide fire protection)


How can I attach a 1/8" strip of steel to MDF so that it stays secure forever for eternity?

1) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'T' cross section. Cut a slot down the middle of the 81" edge of the panel to accommodate it. Dry fit, then assemble with construction adhesive. If desired, 'pin' the T-bar in place with nails or screws through the surface of the door.

... or ...

2) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'U' cross section and 1.5" outside dimension. Use a router to rabbit each of side of the 81" edge so that the U-channel fits onto the edge. If desired, 'pin' the U-channel in place with nails or screws through the surface of the door.

... or ...

3) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'U' cross section and 1.5" inside dimension. No routing necessary. If desired, 'pin' the U-channel in place with nails or screws through the surface of the door.


color match the nosing and the floor with correct stain color

Good news you can always stain darker over a lighter stain, but if the wood is different than the floor, it may be a little trickier. On top of that mass produced items are stained differently than on site wood typically is. You may need to use a dye and not a stain. A dye colors all the wood, and stain soaks into the softer wood and when wiped the softer wood changes more than the harder wood. You may be able to tone the finish, but that weakens the film of protection that the clear coat gives.


What kind of subfloor do most people use these days?

I would just lay tile on the concrete. It will last longer and be less upkeep down the road. Could always get some rugs if you're worried about your feet being cold.


How can I fix a toilet that is backing up with sink water?

If the sink is backing up into the toilet, then the clog is at or after the junction of the two in your drain lines. You'll have to snake the drain to remove the clog, and it will likely be beyond the reach of a standard toilet auger. You could remove the trap on your sink and attempt to snake it from there, or remove the toilet and run the snake down that drain.

If you do remove the toilet, you should wait for the water in the lines to recede so it doesn't flood your floor. If you go through the sink drain, you'll likely have a smaller drain line to maneuver the snake and it's possible the clog is further away, requiring a longer snake.


How do I turn a seized SS screw in a brass fixture?

First I would hit the screws with a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster or Kroil. Then I would make sure that I have the absolute best fitting phillips head bit on the end of my screwdriver. Then I would push into the screw driver with all my might while slowly turning counter clockwise, and cross my fingers that it does not strip. And then if they do strip, then you have some options:

cut off the head of the screw. I don't know exactly what your situation is, but many times the head of the screw is what is holding the things together, so cutting it off will eliminate the pressure. Once things are taken apart you'll have a threaded rod stuck into whatever it's threaded into, but if enough of it is exposed then you can use a vice grip to get it out.
drill out the screw. This would be difficult on something like stainless steel, and you would also ruin the threads of whatever it's screwed into (if it's a nut then no worry).
cut the head of the screw into a square or something to get a socket onto it. Will be too hard if it's a small screw
blast away the screw with a torch. Something tells me this would be inappropriate for your situation
use a screw extractor socket. I have had good luck with these.

If breaking the head off the screw would compound your problem further because you will be unable to get the threaded rod out, then you're biggest priority should be not to break the screw! If this happens, then a machine shop may need to mill it out.


Ok to use 3 wire to wire pairs of lights, for pairs of dimmers?

3 wire cable (black, red, white, ground) doesn't give you any additional load capacity unless the wires are on separate circuits and each circuit is on the reverse phase. This is because the neutral is returning all of the current for both hots. This is something you'd likely only see in kitchen outlets to easily run 2 circuits and distribute the load. In other parts of the home, the third wire is usually for running a switched and non-switched power source in the same cable (e.g. an outlet with one half switched.

Can you run two separate dimmers, one on the black, one on the red? I don't see any reason why you couldn't. Double check the packaging on the dimmer switches to see if there are any spacing requirements for heat dissipation. I would go with the deepest J box you can fit in the wall to give yourself lots of space to cram in the wiring. And if the wire holes in the back of the switch clamp via the side screws (rather than spring loaded), I'd use those to reduce any risk of the side screw shorting out with the neighboring switch.

To tell you if you're exceeding the capacity, we'd need to know the wattage for each fixture, wire gauge, breaker amperage, and what else is on the same breaker. This post explains the math and rules of thumb to ensure you don't overload the circuit.


You'll need two wires.  One wire (R) that comes from the transformer, and one (G) that powers the fan relay.


Oven 40 amp breaker tripped, replaced with like kind, no 240 volts

Because your panel is a GE Qline

The original breakers was their 1" wide 2-pole breaker. The type straddles two spaces, leaving 1/2" above and below.

You took it to the store, I am guessing a big box, and looked for breakers like that.  They didn't have GE 1"  2-poles. But you or they mistook it for a duplex.

GE does not make duplex breakers.

But you found a BR, HOM or Murray duplex. Close enough. The clerk swore it would fit. He "knows" all these types cross-fit  (wrong).

You got it home. It wouldn't fit directly, because it couldn't clip on to those little Qline cruciforms on the bus bars.but did fit if you moved it to a different location.

Moral of the story is don't use alien breakers.


What can I do to keep my shed (or house) free of spiders?

Spiders are predators, they go where the food is.  If spiders are attracted to your shed, it means prey insects are attracted to your shed.  Get rid of the prey.

Remove nearby vegetation and organic matter that provides food/shelter for bugs
Remove any standing water (bird baths, puddles, soil that soaks up moisture)
Remove light sources (bugs fly towards light)
Stain/paint exposed wood to make it less attractive to bugs
Fill gaps in the shed where bugs are getting inside to get out of the elements (caulk)
Regularly apply spray pesticides to the exterior surface of the shed to discourage insects from hanging around.  Also apply it to any crevices in the inside.
Look at more "natural" oils and plants that repel insects.


When doing electrical work, what do I use to check wires are safe?

Test Tools

In approximate descending order of safety (though the professional multimeter could arguably be higher if you are careful about how you use it)

Voltage tester

A professional electrician would very likely have one of these:

If you expect to do occasional DIY electrical work in the rest of your life, you should consider buying something like this.

It does not make you part of the circuit.
It has no knobs or switches that can accidentally be left in the wrong position.
It has no removable leads that can be accidentally left in the wrong socket.
it can easily be used with two hands (more so than a typical multimeter)
It will operate without batteries.
It is relatively inexpensive (<£25 in UK).
It is a major brand - so the design can be expected to incorporate high standards for safety and reliability.
It will likely last the rest of your life.

If money is an issue you can get cheaper versions of the above as shop-brand items (e.g. cheapest CPC/Farnell "Tenma" branded device <£8), this is what I use now.

2-in-1 tester

At the cheapest extreme you might consider one of these instead:

It does not make you part of the test circuit
It will work without batteries
Cheap (~ £4 from eBay vendors)

It does have some disadvantages

It is very cheaply made.
The LED indicators are a bit dim and hard to see, especially at lower voltages.

I'm not sure I trust it fully. It is certainly safer, and a better buy, than a "voltage test screwdriver" (see below).

Non-Contact Voltage (NCV) detector

Sometimes called a "voltage detector pen" or just "voltage detector"

This type of detector is widely used for the following reasons

Inexpensive (the one pictured is more expensive as it also detects current).
No contact with wiring needed.

So does not make you part of the circuit.

few or no controls to set (so fewer mistakes possible)

It has some disadvantages

Can be misleading and "detect" voltage several inches (or more) from the wires
Not very good for detecting which specific wire is live in a cable
Battery required
Can be fiddly to verify correct operation.

The one I have has a thumb-wheel that has to be turned to set the sensitivity, you need to do this each time you use it and a consequence is that the test result isn't necessarily as clear and distinct as the other types of tester.

Some electricians say that NCV detectors are good for an initial test but that, for safety, you should follow up with a contact based voltage detector like the one at the top of this answer.

See Is a negative reading from a non-contact voltage detector sufficient?

Multimeter (professional)

I have several of these bought cheaply from eBay (around £70).

Advantages:

It is credibly Cat-II rated .
The leads are also Cat-II rated.
It has a four-socket design, so current measurements are physically separated from voltage measurements.
It contains a good HRC fuse (two actually).
It has lots of other protections (MOVs etc).
The case is sufficiently well-designed and made to contain the small electrical explosions that might occur when you make a bad mistake.

Hold

A nice feature with this meter is that the "Hold" button is a true hold and not a mere "data hold". This is useful for those of use with fewer than three arms.

With a true hold, you can put the multimeter on the floor (or hang it nearby), press the hold button, then take a probe in each hand and make the measurement without looking at the meter display, you stop taking the measurement when the meter beeps, you take your hands away from the wiring then look at the meter to see what value it shows.

With a "data hold", you have to use a third hand and your other set of eyes to press the hold button during the reading. In practice it can mean using one hand to hold both probes, looking away from what your hands are doing near the wiring (dangerous) and pressing the hold button.

So the former (rarer) type of "hold" is useful, the latter not.

Low-Z

A problem using multimeters to test for voltage is that they typically have high impedance, typically 10 MΩ and can pick up "ghost voltages". These are induced voltages caused by proximity of wires. They are not dangerous voltages as no significant current can be supplied inductively in typical household wiring. Some meters have a Low-Z setting designed to prevent this measurement artifact.

Disadvantages

Like all multimeters it has some significant disadvantages

You can accidentally try to measure volts with the leads plugged into the current sockets (some meters have a jack-alert feature to warn about this)
You can accidentally try to measure volts with the knob set to the wrong range (perhaps making you think wires are safe when they are not)

Multimeter (cheap)

I have several of these type of cheap multimeters

Even though this one is apparently rated Cat-II I prefer not to use it to test for 120V/240V. Because

The case is not designed to contain electric arcs.
The fuse is a cheap fuse not a high rupture capacity fuse.
It has a 3-socket design. The same socket is used for volts and current.

All these things mean more likelihood of unpleasant injury when you make a mistake.

Voltage Test Screwdriver

Most folk have one of these

The bottom type contains only a small 1/4W resistor and a neon indicator.

The top type is battery powered and can be used for a variety of purposes: mains voltage, continuity test, finding the break in a cable, etc.

Both of them are fundamentally unsafe because

They make you part of the 120V/240V test circuit.

This is bad. Even though they are cheap and millions of people use them. Buy the 2-in-1 tester if money is an issue.

Test Tools Summary

Use a reputable simple voltage-tester, a really decent multimeter or a 2-in-1 type tester. An NCV detector is useful for initial tests but be careful not to rely on it too much. Don't use a tester that makes you part of the circuit and don't use a cheap multimeter.

Other Tools

Most DIYers own ordinary screwdrivers, pliers, wire-cutters and strippers. It can be safer to buy insulated tools intended to protect you when working on 120V/240V AC electrical wiring.

There are different standards bodies which makers test their products against. In Europe it is normal to look for VDE rated tools. In the US I guess the equivalent is UL. This should be stamped on the tool (but be wary of cheap unbranded or off-brand tools made in countries that have a poor record for faking such marks)

Insulated screwdriver

Often a low-cost set of these will include a voltage test screwdriver (see above) which I suggest be discarded.

Insulated wire-cutter/stripper

Note that this one combines wire-cutting and insulation-stripping features

Insulated Pliers

Note that the insulation is rated for 1000 volts and that the handles have protruding guards to help stop your fingers slipping onto the metal conductive parts.

Electrical test tool categories

Test equipment is rated and marked as Cat-II etc -

So Cat-II is OK for most electrical work around the home - changing light-fittings, light-switches and sockets/outlets. For working inside the main electrical panel, or near to it, Cat-III would be more appropriate.

Techniques

See Electric shock - was I stupid, unlucky, or a combination of both?

The main principles are

turn off the circuit using the circuit-breaker at the main electrical panel. It is prudent to mark, tape or even lock the circuit breaker switch so that someone else doesn't switch it back on while you are working on the wiring.
keep your hands away from bare metal (wires etc). This is why good probes have prominent finger-guards and probe-tip shields.
check and recheck that your test equipment

leads are plugged into appropriate sockets
knobs are set to appropriate ranges
other features of the test equipment are set appropriately

After a test confirms a wire is dead, check the equipment has not just now failed. Test it on a known live source before proceeding to handle the wiring.

The third point above is why multimeters are not an ideal tester for 120V/240V work.


How to run cable from attic to breaker panel in a finished room

If the wall is an external wall this is really tough.
 I have used fish rods (thin fiberglass rods pushed through the panel.
  One advantage today that make it possible are clamps like raco insiders these Romex clamps can be put in after the wire is pulled from the inside of the box.
(Many home owners just left the cable in the opening without a clamp). In 2 cases I have been called to repair when the hot shorted out on the sharp edge of the panel that is not a lot but one required a new panel and a lot of wiring to repair burnt wires, the other just re-pulling the burnt wire.

I have found putting a pull string on the leading edge of the fish rod and going up until I find the hole in the top plate works best.
 Remove the string pull the rod out through the bottom , tie the string to the Romex and pull the cable down to the panel.
2 people make this much easier For me I would almost rather repair a small section of drywall and have to paint than fight getting a fish rod through the panel and then the top plate by myself.  the “insiders”  plastic clamp makes this possible but still a chore. I usually put a hard plastic shield over the lugs if the panel is a main lug style and am very cautious when trying to find the hole above not to come in contact with any hot wires. hope this helps.


Halogens are incandescent and do not require a "starter". Those are for fluorescent lamps.

I am guessing the LED's do not put enough of a load on the secondary (12v) side of the circuit to initiate a steady current draw. Some power supply output circuits are electronic and not just a straight transformer.  You would need a ballast resistor added to the circuit in parallel with the lamps to get all three LED's to work. But then you have current flowing through the resistor all the time, defeating the purpose of switching to LED's to save electricity.

You should get a fixture specifically designed to use LED's.

The specifics of this question are probably better answered by an electrical engineer so you would need the question moved to the electronic store section if you want an in depth response.


How do I fix the low water flow of my kitchen sink?

First confirm that the problem is at the valves and not a clogged faucet screen.

Backing-up the valve with an  adjustable wrench you could turn your knobs with channel locks but be prepared for a few drips, or something completely catastrophic to happen. Not something to be messing with on a Saturday evening. Being frank, those valves are crap. Preferably use 1/4 turn valves. Seeing that these are compression fitting, they're easily changed. Ask for these.

The choke point is at the valve, this clears the blockage: Once you have the valves spinning freely, shut them off and disconnect the leads at the faucet (back this up carefully, do not twist the copper leads). Run the lines into a bucket, completely opening and closing the valves several times. Reattach them, turn them on. Do not touch them again without repeating these steps. Remove the faucet screen and run some water for a bit. Reinsert a cleaned screen, done.