The breaker you picked should work fine.  To determine it for sure, read the fine print on the label on the interior of the door panel.  It should list a series of 10-20 types of breakers that are compatible with your panel.  They are often 2 to 4 letter codes.  The actual breaker models will be that code, and then a number.

Duplex, Triplex, and Quadruplex breakers often have an incompatibility tab on them to prevent you from using them in some slots of your panel.  This is called 'circuit limiting'.  Your panel has 30 lots, and is "rated" for a maximum of 40 circuits.  Thusly, only the bottom ten slots (five rows ) "permit" you to install a duplex, triplex, or quadruplex breaker.  This practice is called CTL or circuit limiting.

You can either play along and use two of the five bottom rows.  Or you can search for a "non-conforming" breaker.  From Murray's product list, it's not clear that they make one.  The tab could also be physically ripped out or cut.  But of course that would violate code, and if you do it wrong, you could die.  And that's no fun.


Preface: this is going to be expensive and likely not valuable to anyone else, since it is non-standard.
First, I would do away with the Coax part of your idea. You're talking about encoding multiple channels of HD video onto a single coax line. Cable and satellite companies do this with expensive equipment with compression. HDMI has literally 20 pins, you can't just do this simply and electrically. HDMI over Cat5e has some compression and might be useful to you, especially with my next suggestion:
If you're not putting all the signal on one cable, how do you do it? Multiple cables. Modern TVs have ~3 HDMI inputs and switching between them is simple like changing channels. If you're talking about 3 different video signals and 3 TVs, you're looking at 9 cables crosslinked like this:

Obviously, the more TVs and the more video source "channels" you have, the more complicated this will be. This also requires HDMI splitters and multiple cables run from your sources to your TVs. On the upside, you can run this with off-the-shelf hardware and full HDMI resolution.
Controlling your laptops could be as straightforward as a remote software on a tablet near each TV that you use instead of/in addition to a TV remote.
Having said all this, the proper and much cheaper way to do this is using the built-in "smart TV" software on each television, and if that's obsolete or not present (older televisions) to upgrade with a "streaming stick" device such as Chromecast, Fire TV, Apple TV, Roku, or other. For around $50 per TV, these will tune into any number of online streams and save you the cost of laptops, wire runs, adapters, et al. You can control the streaming of most of these from a smartphone or tablet (and the same smartphone/tablet can control whichever TV you happen to be at) making this solution superior in many ways to your proposal.


You're right: the wiring colors as installed are "wrong" according to convention. The arrangement in the "after" drawing should satisfy the thermostats and operate the system correctly.
Because the wire colors are confusing it may be a good idea to re-mark them. You could get colored heat shrink tubing and use it to put a colored band on each conductor (or use colored tape). Shrink tubing is available in electrical supply and auto parts stores, among others.


How to replace a Gerber Toe-push tub drain stopper?

Take another look at PF waterworks TubSTRAIN Universal Toe Touch (Tip Toe or Foot Actu.) that is referenced in the question.

Per the image the TubStrain product has a #10-20 fitting included.

On the back of the package the adapter is referenced as “F”

Another issue to take note is the Gasket. If the gasket placed the wrong way the Toe Touch will not work. Make sure the larger diameter of the gasket is pointed toward the drain and the smaller diameter is pointed towards the silver cap. Like an umbrella.

Also sometimes the gasket doesn't work, because they are smaller than the drain opening. Danco sells the gasket only. Replace the PF waterworks gasket with the Danco Rubber Tub Drain Gasket.

Rubber Tub Drain Gasket in Black


Unscrew jammed plastic screw of sink basket assembly

The locknut was very jammed so I ended up using a hacksaw. First, I took out the rubber washer between the sink and the locknut and cut the locknut in the space created.


How can I determine what is in my water?

I would venture a guess that @Tester101's suspicion about your floaties coming from your glass (unrinsed soap, dust, etc.) may be heading down the right path. I would try rinsing a glass, scrubbing it with a new sponge or clean washcloth, wiping it dry with a clean towel (not paper towel, as this may leave pieces of paper behind), and then refilling it.  @NiallC's comment about asking for a water report from your municipal water supply is a pretty good alternative, but doesn't factor in anything that may come from the pipes between them and you. Most health departments will do water testing, so you could always fill a bottle and take it in.

Beyond that, if you really have to know what's in the water, your only real solution to absolutely know with 100% certainty (technically, unless you watch the health department do the tests, and can verify their results, you can't KNOW that they're right...but I'd probably just accept it) is to get testing kits for this, that, and the other thing (that was just the first page offering a wide range of kits that I found), that operate similar to what you might use for pool water. Depending on the sensitivity levels, you may pick up on things like trace amounts of chlorine...but of course this is going to get back into the more expensive end of things, as those kits aren't cheap (Grainger's seem to run around $40-$50 and up...it's about $20 for their cheapest, which is testing for copper, on that first page of results).

You could pick up a pool test kit, which will cover a couple of parameters (chlorine, calcium, hardness, etc.), but it's not going to cover everything and may not operate in the range you need to identify your floaties...it's designed primarily to help you maintain clear-looking pool water that you're not drinking, not crystal clear tap water.

So really:

Ask for report from municipal water supply
Take in sample to health department
If you're still paranoid and want to know what it is, buy test kits
If you just want to get rid of the floaties, filter, filter, filter, and make sure your dishes aren't the source


There's only one way to fix rotten framing, in my opinion, and it doesn't involve putty. It's with new framing. Cutting out and replacing a short bit of plate (or just a portion of it) isn't difficult. It may not even be necessary.


Voltage imbalance at the end of a sixty foot run

It's an open neutral

This sort of voltage imbalance is symptomatic of one thing and one thing only -- an open neutral somewhere.  Fix the neutral issue, likely at a termination although it could be a damaged neutral on a direct bury cable or the likes, and the problem will go away.  Keep the shed turned off at the feeder breaker until then though, as open neutrals tend to be rather...incendiary to electrical equipment.


If the radiation is finned tube and you can access the piping from below, you could break-up or split that run in half by running another supply or return connected to the near middle of the run and/or add finned tube radiation in the colder rooms. If you are going to redesign the heating system why not zone some or all the system. You need to answer a few questions such as how the radiation is piped (single loop, mono-flow, etc). There is a lot of possible fixes depending upon just how the system is presently installed. Let us know and add pictures if you can.


can I install a new thermostat by just turning off the power instead of turining off the circuit breaker?

Yes, but I would

test the voltage at all the thermostat connections before proceeding.
use an insulated screwdriver.

Some thermostat systems operate at safe low voltages (e.g 24 V) but in some countries, it is common for thermostats to be switching dangerous voltages (e.g. 120 or 240 V) so changing a thermostat needs to be handled with as much care as changing a light switch or lamp fitting.


Can I add an elbow to my kitchen gas line to improve clearance with the range?

Yes, you can add fittings like a 90° elbow, with these caveats:

Be sure it's legal for homeowners to do gas work in your jurisdiction.
Be sure the part is rated for gas.
Be sure you know how to properly seal threaded gas connections with thread compound or (gas rated) thread tape and good technique.
Be sure you test with soapy water when you're done.


Can I improve efficiency by moving air ducts from attic to crawl space?

The first step is always to lower where the heat escapes into the house (for summer cooling season). You most likely have plenty of attic insulation.  But you might check for other air leakage places (around doors, windows, pipes, electrical outlets, etc.)  Less heat entering is less heat to cool.  Shades or solar film over windows help too, as well as trees etc.

If the air ducts are insulated, then there might be some difference in moving the duct work to the crawl space, but most likely not enough to cover the cost to change it.  If they are not insulated, then the cost of installation still might be higher than many years of savings.

Another possibility for savings might be an attic vent fan, which could lower the attic temperature some.  Just lowering the attic temp by 10 or 20 degrees is worthwhile in many places.  It means a little less heat getting through the insulation and the ducts would absorb a little less heat as well.


mounting a power-splitter on a foreign electricity transformer

Is the actual problem "I need to power a bunch of 120V devices" or is it "I have a bunch of gadgets that need correct power" ? There is quite a difference. In the picture, it looks like a power adapter (a.k.a. "wall wart") is plugged in.

Many wall warts (or other types of adapters, like "laptop bricks") can actually handle a wide range - e.g., 90V - 240V. If they can handle that range then they will run more efficiently if you simply get a passive adapter that adapts for the type of connection (i.e., the position of the pins) but does not actually change the voltage.

Many wall warts (laptop bricks, etc.) produce a standard output. Typical is ~ 18V for laptops with different tips for different manufacturers/models - there are "universal" adapters available that come with a whole variety of tips, such as this Targus adapter:

Many wall warts are simply USB power converters. They end with a mini or micro USB connector and there is no need to use the one that came with your device. In fact, plenty of people get extras just to be able to plug the same devices in multiple locations in their house.

I recommend getting a USB wall wart designed for your location that has USB A (the familiar little rectangle you find on most computers) connectors instead of a cable. That way you can just plug in standard USB mini or micro cables as needed for your particular device(s) and, with many of these, charge 2 or more devices at once.


Should I be worried if grease leaks from inside the new electric drill?

It's a tool, and they use grease during assembly. The jaws of the chuck should have grease on the outer surface where they meet the collar. Spots of grease elsewhere are incidental and shouldn't be cause for concern. Those aren't necessarily assembled in "white glove" conditions.

Further, once you use it, since it has moving/spinning parts, you might see excess grease weep out in places. Again, I wouldn't be concerned as long as it operates smoothly without harsh grinding or other noises.


Do thermostat-controlled, auto-adjust HVAC vents exist?

There are various degrees of a "zoned" HVAC system.

A simple zoned system will include motorized dampers in the ducts to direct air where it is needed.  e.g. If one room is too cold, but the other ones are fine, the system will shut the dampers to the other rooms, and then fire up the heater so just the one room is heated.

More sophisticated zoning systems for larger house will include multiple heating/cooling units (e.g. one for the upstairs and one for the downstairs).

Zoned systems can also work on a schedule.  (e.g. keep the downstairs of your house comfortable during the day, but direct all of the airflow upstairs at night.)

As you can imagine, the control systems for such a unit get pretty complex.  Motorized dampers everywhere, control lines to all the dampers, thermostats in the various rooms.  It all adds up to a lot of money.  It is also a lot of stuff that can break.

Because of the complexity, most HVAC contractors will avoid doing a zoned system unless absolutely necessary.  It is usually easier to install a big air handler (enough CFM to cover the whole house), and then put a few manual dampers (1/10th the cost of motorized ones) and tweak them until they are right.

EDIT:  Another option to consider is a multi-split system.  Instead of having all your ducts connected back to one central air handler unit, each room/area has its own indoor unit, with its own fan and thermostat.  All of the indoor units have refrigerant lines that are connected to the outdoor condenser unit.  Each unit can heat/cool independently.  Some systems even allow simultaneous heating and cooling (good for server rooms in an office building).  Because they are ductless, they are a good fit for retrofitting a house with no ducts.  They do not make a lot of sense in an existing house that is already ducted, though.


Depends on the model. That looks like an IPS05 or and IPV05. The IPV05 is manual on only, the IPS05 will act as manual on if the ambient light level dial behind the face of the device is set to 0.
There are also models that instead of dials have a row of tiny slide switches called dip switches that control the vacancy/occupancy operation and the on/off time delay.
The sensitivity dials or dip switches are usually located behind the pushbutton.  If it is an IPV05/IPS05 to access the controls first you need to remove the trim cover, then gently push down and pull forward on the tiny tabs that on the top of the plastic that hold the button assembly to the switch.


What goes on threads first: tape or dope?

If you're using both, the tape would go on first. Which is immediately evident, if you've ever tried to apply them the other way round.  There's open debate over whether or not there are any advantages to using both products together, or if each product by itself is adequate.
Pipe dope
Pipe dope; also known as pipe joint compound, is used to seal and lubricate the threads of a threaded pipe joint.  It's available for both water and gas lines. It's applied by simply brushing it on the male threads of the pipe joint, before the joint is fit together. Pipe dope never hardens, and will not crumble and fall out of the joint.

Teflon Tape Dope
Teflon Tape dope; also known as polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) Tape, or thread seal tape, is also used to seal and lubricate the threads of a threaded pipe joint.  It's available in high-density and low-density flavors, for water and gas pipe.  PTFE tape is applied by wrapping it in a clockwise direction, around the male threads of the threaded joint. PTFE tape is available in color coded versions (pink for water, yellow for gas), as well as the common white variety.


This looks like a crack caused by the wood drying and shrinking. Likely caused by dry winter air, although it's also possible that the wood wasn't properly dried before the bench was assembled. (Humidifying your whole house can help with cracks like this, but wood is a natural material and nothing will preserve it perfectly forever.)

It also doesn't help the way the bench is put together: ideally wood furniture should be capable of a little wood movement. When wood absorbs moisture it expands perpendicular to the grain; when it dries out it contracts perpendicular to the grain. (Wood also expands and contracts in the direction of the grain, but usually it is small enough to ignore.) The way this bench is constructed with that large surface of wood, there's no way for a little natural shrinkage without a crack like this.

Unless it's driving you crazy, my recommendation would be to stain the crack and then just leave it. You could try using pocket screws from underneath like HerrBag suggests, but if you try to close the crack tight there's a decent chance that you'll just get another crack somewhere else next winter when the wood shrinks again.

(I disagree with longneck's comment that this is caused by lack of structural support underneath: the crack probably happened next to the support because the support was holding the wood together and resisting shrinkage there. If you say it appeared in the middle of the night, that reinforces my suspicion.)


Why does one Mysa smart thermostat override the others?

You're somehow bypassing the other thermostats and have their load wires tapped into your new thermostat. Verify your wiring. Return it to its original state and investigate further.
..


Router bit depth keeps decreasing/slipping down, where is the problem?

I think that measurement is needed to determine what the problem is.

Load up the router with a bit, and measure how much the bit protrudes from the collet.

Lock the base in place.  Measure the distance from the collet face to the base.

Measure from the base to the router body.

Now run the router until the bit sinks from the work.

Redo all those measurements, this will tell you which part is slipping.  eg.  If the bit is sticking out less from the collet, then the collet isn't holding the bit -- now you would have to figure that out -- is the lock nut tight, is the collet dirty or damaged.

If the distance from the base to the collet face is different then either the router body has slipped, or the depth adjustment has slipped.  Then check the base to router body distance.

I have one old router that I can't trust the depth on - when it's on and upright the bit could choose to stick out 1/32 further than when it's upsidedown -- this router has an issue with the bearings and the shaft will wiggle up and down - this might also be an issue with your router, but it sounds like the travel is too far for this to be the problem.


How to automatically open a regular window?

Not really. There are plenty of ventilation systems in use, but it would be cumbersome and expensive to involve windows.

Exhaust fans do the job by sending stale air out. This creates a very slight low pressure condition inside the home, so that even if there's no "makeup air" or air exchange system installed, air will be drawn in through the many small leaks any home has.

I strongly suggest that you install a digital/smart timer on your bath fan or furnace so that you can run them on a schedule or on demand, instead of seeking a motorized apparatus that's likely to be unsightly and noisy.


Assuming you're in the US, what you'll need to do is the following (an electrician might be a good idea for some of this)

Mount a pole near to where the pump is. A pressure treated 4x4 would work for this
Mount a meter box. If you're doing this yourself, you can sometimes find these with the mast pre-attached and utility ready
Attach a breaker box to the meter. There's a lot of these with only a few breaker slots (think a 100 amp panel)
A GFCI breaker for however many amps the pump draws. My bet is a 20 amp would do
Thick enough UF wire and conduit to reach to the pump. 12-2 would be sufficient if 20 amps was for the previous step

Once this is all set, have the utility come out and connect to the box and install a meter. And that's it.


Tamped Gravel on fence posts and Frost Line?

A 24-inch depth works well for a 4-foot tall fence, but a fence that is 6 feet high should have posts sunk 3 feet deep or more. So dependent on the fence height above ground you may need to go with the 4x4x10.

Crushed rock works well for supporting fence posts because it contains rock pieces of a few inches in size, fine pebbles as well as fine gravel dust, which can pack together more tightly than using rocks of all the same size. If you use gravel instead, you can mix coarse masonry sand with the gravel for better compaction.

As for frost heaving/line, the best way to address this is how you dig your hole. If it is beveled at top then over time—whether concrete or gravel—it will pop out. So you want to create a lip at the top and that can be done by making the base of the hole wider than the top of the hole.

What causes frost heaving is the inward pressure and is comparable to squeezing a watermelon seed. How can that be prevented?  Answer: Dig a bell shaped hole to encase the post as much as possible. Fill hole with gravel leaving a few inches at top and compact that with earth; that helps with enclosing it as well and just looks better (to me).

NOTE: Do not add more than 6" layers of gravel at a time and compact thoroughly between adding layers.

Wrong method in pic 1:

Correct way in pic 2:


How can I get rid of fleas in my crawlspace forever?

The fleas are most likely lying dormant (deep) in the dirt floor, below where the bombs/sprays will get to.

Couple/few options:

Pave it.
Soak the floor 2' down with a chemical like bleach.
Diatomaceous Earth.

Number 1 is most permanent, #2 is dangerous as all get-out (and probably illegal), whereas #3 is cheap and safe.

Diatomaceous earth is (basically) fossilized algae powder.  You spread it on a surface and it will absorb fats out of the waxy outer protection on bugs like fleas, mites, etc. when they land on it or walk across it, dig through it, etc.

Once those fats are gone, the pest dehydrates and dies.

It'll take some time and effort applying and re-applying, but it's cheap at about $40-50 for a 50lbs bag of "Food Grade".

Doing an Internet search for "Diatomaceous earth" and "Fleas" and you'll finds lots of direction on using it for your application.


Brace Yourself!
The problem is not the simple strength of the ceiling joists - we'll presume that even a single joist is strong enough to hold up a fan. The problem is that a box next to a joist will not be stable enough to support a fan if it is only supported on one side. A typical brace solves that problem.
An alternative is to place the box under a joist. However, unless this is an open ceiling, that will (a) have the box dropping below the finished ceiling and (b) not look very nice.
So unless you really like a wobbling fan, use a brace:

You also get the nice advantage of more flexibility for placement of the fan, though if you are making use of an existing hole in the ceiling then that is a non-issue.


It would be tested for leaks before the top layer of mortar was laid up over the PVC membrane.


Two 14/2 cables for a Ceiling Fan with Two Separates Switches for the Light and Fan

"the white wires are tied together at the ceiling fan box and switch box" that's a Code violation.  That's called paralleling, which NEC 336.20 complexly says "heck no".
Tying all safety grounds together is the right thing to do.  Tying all neutrals together is definitely not - it violates 336.20 and 300.3.  However, in 99.9% of boxes, tying all neutrals together is correct - you can see where this area is prone to error.  Pros who practice entirely in one narrow area tend to drift into bad habits.  Particularly in residential, where neutral and ground seem like the same thing since they all go to the same bar in the panel.
You're OK as long as the fan is a fan ONLY, and the lights are separate.
In that case, you keep the neutrals separate in the fan's box.  The fan hot & neutral serve only the fan... the light hot & neutral pass through that box and serve only the lights.  That's copacetic.
The diagram you found presumes a fan+light combo. And it's wrong.
The diagram you found is for power at the fan/light. Your power comes to the switch, and you want to treat that as a minor difference - no, it's pivotal.
Also, like most diagrams on the Web, it ignores the NEC 2011 code change which requires neutral at the switch.  People who are good at drawing diagrams are not good at following Code.
However you have several no-rewire options.
Light is subsidiary to fan (or vice versa)
In this application, a master switch turns on/off everything. When that switch is on, a subsidiary switch will turn on/off only the light.  (or only the fan).   This master switch cannot be a dimmer, fan speed control or anything other than a plain on/off switch (it can be smart).
Further, subject to AHJ interpretation, if this is the only light in the room, the master must turn on the light. (leaving the fan as subsidiary).  Every habitable room must have a light switch which works (for benefit of guests and first responders). That's not allowed to be a puzzle.
Use one /2 cable as the switched-hot to the entire fan/light assembly.  So this cable switches on both fan and light.  Neutral is present at the switch box, so that is covered.
As far as the second /2, you configure that as a switch loop (always-hot and switched-hot) to control the light.  (or the fan if you prefer).
The subordinate switch, which controls only the light, can be dimmable - but it cannot need neutral because it has no access to neutral.  It cannot "poach" the neutral from the other cables, because switch loops can't do that and it would be a NEC 300.3 violation. (imbalanced currents in the cable).
Separate neutrals at the light/fan assembly
This requires a light/fan that is specifically wired for this so it significantly constrains your choice of light/fan.  The fan in your diagram would not cut the mustard, however, there are fans that would, particularly ones that take retrofit light kits.
Note that each of the /2 cables has a hot and a neutral.  The hots will be switched-hots; one for the lamp, one for the fan.  I would even re-mark these with colored tape:
Cable 1 is "fan-hot" and "fan-neutral", I'd use red and white.
Cable 2 is "lamp-hot and lamp-neutral", I'd use blue and gray.
The fan hot and neutral go to cable 1.   The light hot and neutral go to cable 2.  The neutrals ARE NOT tied together in the fan area; they are already tied together at the switch and cannot be tied both places.
Current travels in loops (hence 300.3).  All fan current returns on the fan neutral in that same cable.  All lamp current returns on the lamp neutral.  Thus we comply with 300.3.
You are at liberty to use any type of dimmer, smart switch, motion sensor, speed control or anything you please at the switches.


OSB is fine for this.  It comes in various grades.  I wouldn't use the stuff used for siding.  It doesn't hold up to moisture.  But the subfloor grade (typically 23/32" thick, sanded flat on one side, tongue and groove on long edges) is good.

Test your subfloor for moisture.  Tape a square of thick sheet plastic to the floor for 24 hours and see if there is any condensation on it.  If you are in a winter climate do this test during the mud season after all the snow is gone.  This is generally when foundations are at their soggiest.

If there is, I would both seal the surface AND put down a layer of 6 mil polyethylene under the OSB.  (I'd do that for any floor if there is moisture.

Other options.

I live in a climate where I know my basement is going to flood.  There's plumbing down there.  I have had two sump pump failures where I ended up with a quarter inch of water over half my floor, and one leaking drain that put a 3 foot puddle.  No big deal on a concrete floor.

Our floor is painted.  We wear socks if we are down there in winter.

Look at thick area rugs or an area rug on a slightly smaller pad.  easy to do, and you can just take the rug to the cleaners if the sewer backs up.


Why is difficult to unplug things from this electrical receptacle?

It's probably best to get the socket replaced rather than repaired - especially one that's in a bathroom as you might need to have a RCD socket to protect against shocks.

Sockets should have a certain degree of stiffness so that the plug doesn't just fall out or come partially out if you put even the slightest strain on the flex.


Installing a exterior light in existing vinyl siding

You said:

  So in that case I really don't understand how this method would prevent moisture, which may have already gotten behind the vinyl, from getting into the electrical box.

You are correct in your assessment, the siding is not waterproof or even moisture proof. Water will get behind the siding, hence the reason for underlayment or house wrap. Electrical boxes cut into siding will not be waterproof or moisture proof either.

The code just requires you to use a weather resistant / tamper resistant receptacle and an in use cover if it will be exposed to the weather. If it is under a porch or patio you can use a old style spring cover like a Bell box cover.

The terminals and connections in this box will probably corrode and need replacing before anything inside the house but should last for 10 years or so depending on your location and the weather.

If you want it as water/moisture proof as possible then install an all plastic solid device box with PVC nipple attached with a PVC connector to a junction box inside of the house. Then wire it with THHN/THWN wire instead of NM cable. Then use an in-use cover with a gasket and the aforementioned weather resistant / tamper resistant receptacle. That should keep the inside of the box pretty dry.

Good Luck!

Happy Thursday!


What size door jamb should I order for a non-standard wall thickness?

I'm not sure that I fully understand your situation, but from what I think you're describing, you should be able to inset one side of the door frame without the flange by 11/16 and add a spacer or "extension" to bring the frame's edge flush with the wall's surface--and then attach molding, etc. on top of that as usual.

I've done that with a garage door that I installed one time and lived in houses with non-standard thickness walls and that's how it was done on those too.


Is it possible to use waterproof grout + sealer to fix shower room floor leaks?

You can remove the existing grout, and re-grout with an epoxy grout. It's more expensive than regular grout but it's completely waterproof and you won't need too seal it. It's also much stronger than regular grout.

However, if in fact the shower pan is broken, then this will probably be a temporary fix and you'll know when it fails because the leak will start again. A permanent solution would be to rip up the tile, replace or repair the pan and re-tile and grout. good luck


Does my light switch require a ground wire?

Assuming you are in North America:
When boxes were steel and the wiring was run with metal conduit or BX cable (flexible metal armoring wrapped around the wires instead of a plastic or fabric jacket), grounding was done via the metal-to-metal contact of the switch to the box, the box to the conduit and the conduit to the breaker panel, which was itself bonded to ground. If you have removed a steel box and replaced it with a plastic one, but the wiring is still in the BX cable, then you can get a fitting for attaching the BX to the box that allows you to attach a ground wire (grounding locknut). But technically, it would not meet current code, because the old BX cable no longer meets the requirements for continuous grounding. NEWER versions, now called "Type AC" cable (for Armor Clad) have a different design that meets code grounding requirements.

For a while, code allowed for switches to not have any ground connection though, so you would have NM (Non Metallic) cable without a ground wire used on them. In that case if you are replacing like-for-like, you can ignore the ground connection on a new switch, there is a Code exception under article 404.9(B) allowing for that.


What is involved in ripping out carpets and put in fake wood floors for an apartment floor overhaul?

There's no way we can offer you prices as they vary wildly based on particular products, stores, and region you live in.

We also can't say what your landlord would or would not be willing to do. You'd have to ask them.

As for ripping out carpet, that requires some gloves and a bit of muscle--not that hard.

Installing flooring (be it vinyl tiles or engineered hardwood) is also fairly easy in the grand scheme of DIY projects.


A pipe wrench holding the exposed portion of the nipple should allow you to remove the valve without loosening the joint in the wall.

But be sure to inspect the condition of the pipe.  This appears to be galvanized steel pipe which rusts over time.  If the pipe appears to be rusted severely or is filled with scale, you may want to replace it and even the pipes in the wall.

Note, you may wish to employ a helper to hold the pipe wrench while you unscrew the valve.


Can I move my bathroom sink's drain pipe about 6 inches to the right?

Yes... Maybe... It depends...

The pipe can defiantly be relocated, the question is how difficult will it be.  It may be as simple as opening the wall, cutting out the old plumbing, adding a few fittings, and closing the wall back up.  Or you might find there is framing in the way, or some other complications.

It's nearly impossible to accurately answer your question, without being able to see what you are dealing with.  The best anybody can do without seeing it, is say yes it can probably most likely maybe be moved.

If you're not sure what to do, or don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself. Remember, your friendly neighborhood plumber is just a phone call away.


How can I remove thick dust on the top of a wardrobe?

Cover entire top of wardrobe with king sized bed sheet.  Lay it down gently across the top, right on the dust.  Don't stir it up.
Scoot edges in along the top of wardrobe, pushing dust in front of them.  Dust pushed into the air will remain trapped under the sheet.
When you have pushed edges in to center, dust will be inside sheet.  Gather edges in the middle of the wardrobe and take sheet (now bag) outside to shake dust out.
Bring sheet back in and use it to wipe off residual dust.  Take back outside to shake.
Bring sheet back in and use furniture polish and sheet to clean wardrobe top.

would it be too much to ask that you post a picture of the dust?  Prurient interest, perhaps, but I want to see dust that thick.


Is It Okay to Put Dryer Vent Behind Drywall When Finishing Basement

In general it looks good but what you need to consider is the total length can not be longer than 25' and for every 90° you shall subtract 5ft from the total 25' allowed.

Here are some codes regarding such.

The recommendations outlined below reflect International Residential Code (IRC) SECTION M1502 CLOTHES DRYER EXHAUST guidelines:

M1502.5 Duct construction.

Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of minimum 0.016-inch-thick (0.4 mm) rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces, with joints running in the direction of air flow. Exhaust ducts shall not be connected with sheet-metal screws or fastening means which extend into the duct.

This means that the flexible, ribbed vents used in the past should no longer be used. They should be noted as a potential fire hazard if observed during an inspection.

M1502.6 Duct length.

The maximum length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 25 feet (7,620 mm) from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 2.5 feet (762 mm) for each 45-degree (0.8 rad) bend, and 5 feet (1,524 mm) for each 90-degree (1.6 rad) bend. The maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct.

M1502.2 Duct termination.

Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. Exhaust ducts shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

M1502.3 Duct size.

The diameter of the exhaust duct shall be as required by the clothes dryer’s listing and the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Look for the exhaust duct size on the data plate.

M1502.4 Transition ducts.

Transition ducts shall not be concealed within construction. Flexible transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths not to exceed 8 feet (2438 mm), and shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A.


Are EMT connectors (couplers, etc.) prone to disconnecting?

No. Code would not allow it if it was a significant risk.
Do be sure to properly tighten all the screws and threaded connections, but they don't just randomly break or "go bad."
Or: Consider that when you use grounding wires, "one bad screw will break the path to ground", too.


Frozen water lines, what should I do with my electric hot water heater?

What is the temperature where the hot water heater is? The tank is big and insulated and while it will take longer to freeze, if the ambient temperature is below freezing, it will eventually freeze.

When pipes freeze, there is much less water volume so they will freeze much faster. Also, copper is an excellent conductor, so standing water in copper pipes will be very close to the surrounding temp.


Carpet company wants to charge me for the waste they will have left over. Is this normal?

It's totally normal. Carpet comes on rolls in widths from 11'6" to 13'. They need to cut off a chunk of that roll to fit the room.

It's the reason why if you're carpeting a 10x10' room, you can't buy 100sqft of carpet: they'll charge you for more like 120sqft (12' roll, 10' long).

It also depends on the layout of the room, and where they put seams (if necessary). Eg: an L-shaped room has a couple different ways to lay out the carpet, and depending the layout and where the seams are, you'll use a different amount.

A good installer will also consider traffic: if there are seams, you don't want them right in front of a door way, or preferably not running down the middle of a high traffic pathway. I think they also avoid putting seams within a foot or so of walls (so there isn't a narrow strip of carpet running along the wall). All of these things may end up using more carpet than a layout optimized just to minimize scrap, but will result in a much better looking and longer lasting install.

The other factor is in patterned carpets, they will use a bit more since the patterns need to line up. The bigger the pattern, the more is scrap needed to keep it in line.

The important bit is to keep the scrap carpet, unless you really don't need it, since you
paid for it. Often there is a good size chunk, which can be used for many things:

Large door mat
In front of fire places
Padding for moving/storage
Google has many more


What gauge wire is needed to feed a 70 ampere panel 300 ft. away?

If you were simply concerned with ampacity of the conductors, you would be able to use 4 AWG copper or 3 AWG aluminum. Unfortunately, in your situation you'll have to concerned with the power quality, so you'll also have to take into account the voltage drop along the conductors.
Calculating voltage drop uses the simple formula Voltage Drop =  Resistance (R) * Current (I). However, figuring out resistance and current can be a bit tricky.
Resistance
To determine the resistance of a conductor, you can use Table 8 from Chapter 9 of the National Electrical Code (which you should be able to find online somewhere). This table lists the ohms per thousand feet, of various types and sizes of conductors.
Once you have this value, you can divide it by 1000 to get the ohms per foot. You'll then multiply this value by 2 times the length of the conductor. So the formula for resistance will look something like this.
R = 2 * Length (L) * ohms/foot
Current
The current is a bit trickier, since it will change depending on what is drawing power on the circuit.  A lot of folks will say  things like "It' highly unlikely you'll ever use the circuit at full load.". They'll then use a fraction of the circuit capacity to calculate the voltage drop. However, this can easily lead to the situation where a high load item turns on, and the lights dim.  When calculating the voltage drop for feeders, I like to use the full capacity of the circuit to do the calculations. So in your case, I'd use 70 amperes.
Power Quality
It's recommended to only allow a 5% total voltage drop, from service to consumer. Because of this, you'll want the voltage drop along the feeder to be around 2 - 3%. For a 240 volt circuit, that means 4.8 - 7.2 volts (120 volt circuit = 2.4 - 3.6 Volts).
Examples
With all that said, let's look at some actual numbers. I'll be using values from the uncoated copper column of Table 8 for these examples.
4 AWG Uncoated Copper
VD = 2 * 300 * 0.000308 * 70 = 12.936 Volts
12.936 Volts / 240 Volts = 5.4%
3 AWG Uncoated Copper
VD = 2 * 300 * 0.000245 * 70 = 10.29 Volts
10.29 Volts / 240 Volts = 4.3%
2 AWG Uncoated Copper
VD = 2 * 300 * 0.000194 * 70 = 8.148 Volts
8.148 Volts / 240 Volts = 3.4%
1 AWG Uncoated Copper
VD = 2 * 300 * 0.000154 * 70 = 6.468 Volts
6.468 Volts / 240 Volts = 2.7%
1/0 Uncoated Copper
VD = 2 * 300 * 0.000122 * 70 = 5.124 Volts
5.124 Volts / 240 Volts = 2.1%
Depending on how much you actually care about power quality, you'll want to use either 2 AWG copper or larger. I'd personally probably use at least 1 AWG, because I know how power demand tends to grow over time. Once you have power in a location, you'll find all sorts of things to plug in.


No. OSB can be laid in any orientation and will have the same strength as long as it begins and ends on a stud/joist. The thickness is what determines its strength, not which way you decide to lay it.
Good luck with your project!


How can I put in a screw in a concrete ceiling without power tools?

Unfortunately I don't think you can depend on anything hand installed into concrete, if you want a good hold.

Possibly ask a friend if you can borrow their hammer drill ?


how can I safely attic insulation from kitchen counter

Most people are going to grab bags/boxes and just clean it up and throw it away. Is that the right approach, no.

First - what year was your house built? What kind(s) of debris is on the counter?

Second - By and alone itself, "a storm" shouldn't be enough to cause a ceiling to fall in. This implies you have a bad roof, or a window open, or other issues in the home where water is likely getting to places it does not belong. Not to mention, once you clean up the mess, if you have not repaired the hole in the ceiling, the "things" that fell from the ceiling that are concerning you are still present in the ceiling area and as air moves in the home, it is "taking flight" in the air. So ideally you need to cleanup and patch or seal off the hole.

So with this said, you should call a contractor and get them in there, as unless you are going to repair the ceiling, you need one anyways, and one to inspect what caused the damage.

Standard disclaimer as I do not know if you have asbestos in the home, and it is one of the reasons I ask the questions above and you decide you still want to address the issue without professional quote:

Wear gloves, and long sleeve shirt with sleeves tucked into the gloves, and long pants, everything tucked in.
Wear a face mask, Sure painter masks are better than nothing but a respirator is the right apparatus
Use thick plastic bag like a contractor bag and take care to not toss nails or sharp object in the bag tearing it
Take your time, to avoid creating more dust, place the items in the bag, to avoid creating more dust. Once all major debris and debris you picked up with your hands is taken care of, you can spray a paper towel with water/windex lightly, and begin wiping down surfaces, throwing the paper towels into the bag every few wipes. You're doing this to get fibers and smaller particles picked up.

I'm assuming you have fiberglass or cellulose based insulation, these aren't going to cause any significant issues from a one time exposure aside from skin irritation, yet you still do not want to breathe it in.

Definitely get a contractor in to inspect the cause of the damage and repair it. If you are at all concerned, I would close off the kitchen area until it is repaired.


Replace light Switch with Zwave light switch

Unfortunately, your 3-way switch install isn't compatible with Z-wave switches -- even if a 3-way Z-wave switch existed, all the Z-wave devices I know of require a neutral to function, and you don't have that.  Instead, you have an old-style switch loop where the white wire is retagged to be a traveler, hot, or switched hot instead of a neutral.


I reset the breaker, unplugged and plugged the oven back in, and it started working again.


Which AC Hard Start kit capacitor I should use?

Should you just change a cap because your system is old? NO you don’t state there are any problems.
Electrolytic capacitors do fail over time but we don’t know what you have.  oil filled usually last the life of the unit but are much more expensive and not appropriate for all climates.
If you are noticing the lights dimming , hard starts blowing fuses if all the connections are good replace the cap with the same value.
As electrolytic caps age they loose their ability to hold a charge and or short out (note a bulged cap case has usually shorted, it may be working now but needs to be replaced).
As caps loose their ability to hold a charge they can not get the motor started thus dimming lights and blown fuses, let this go in long and the compressor windings will be damaged.
There are lots of film flam guys out there if your system is starting hard the cap just needs replacing with the same size it is that simple  (if the cap is the problem).
If you could not find the same size +-10% will work but not as well as the manufacturers recommended size.


Are five conductor wire runs (two neutrals) for two circuits still considered a "multi-wire circuit" for code purposes?

In this case, is the run still considered a multi-wire circuit for NEC purposes?

Short answer: No

Here is the relevant Code definition:

  Branch Circuit, Multiwire. A branch circuit that consists of two or more ungrounded conductors that have a voltage between them, and a grounded conductor that has equal voltage between it and each ungrounded conductor of the circuit and that is connected to the neutral or grounded conductor of the system.

Since you would have two hots and two neutrals they are now separate branch circuits. They do not have to be on a two pole breaker or have a handle tie since they do not share a neutral. They do not have to be on opposing hot legs, they can both be on the black (left) or red (right) feeder bus.

Good luck and stay safe!


Do I need to have a water supply connected to a refrigerator to seal the plumbing against microbes?

If you don’t use the lines over time things will grow in poly tubing, but copper not as much. If you have a plug for the line it will keep it from dribbling and collecting contaminants, but the lines will need to be flushed after a period of no use.


I don't have a disposal, my kitchen sink fills when my dishwasher empties, why?

It sounds like the pipes below the kitchen / washer are starting to plug up. It would be a good time to run a snake down the line or have a plumber do it. It will get worse once this has started, if you have trees and a older house roots may be making there way into the drain lines and a cutter tip on a drain auger may be required. I mention this because I have owned several older houses that had this problem, one I only had to clean out in the spring the other I had to replace the old concrete drain pipe.


How can I get the fireplace smoke smell out of my house?

If you can find the source of the smoke smell, you could try a chemical smoke remover like ZEP Smoke Odor Eliminator:  http://amzn.to/1DuEMww

If that doesn't work or you can't find the surface that is holding the smell (and hence cannot use a cleaner like that), then you'd likely need to treat the entire room with an ozone machine.  These are used by professional cleaners that rehabilitate structures that have suffered a fire.  They aren't cheap to buy, and I don't know if you can rent one.  See an example Ozone generator here:  http://bit.ly/1xAXiTM


There are a number of kits available for plastic welding - you will need to identify the specific type of plastic, though.

You can take a look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_welding for more information on the different types - though for a trash can, you're probably looking for something heat-based, probably using a large soldering iron.


TV mounting bracket does not fit the stud locations - how can I overcome that?

A swiveling or articulating TV mount will tend to want to pull itself out of the wall when swiveled or extended, more than a flush-mount bracket would. Therefore, this situation calls for a bit of over-building to ensure safety, and to put up with the additional stresses of moving the bracket around.

You will need the following:

A sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, cut as wide as the gap between the studs, plus at least 3.5 inches. It should be at least 50% taller than the mounting bracket. Hardware stores sell cut pieces of plywood that are 2 foot by 4 foot, so this is an easy choice as it requires only one cut if you don't mine the plywood being a bit over-sized.
6 qty of 3.5 or 4 inch lag bolts, or a box of 4 inch deck screws.
6 or more 1 inch bolts as fat as possible that fit through the mounting slots on the bracket, plus matching t-nuts and washers.

I suggest you pre-paint the plywood to match the wall or the bracket. Either will minimize the appearance of the plywood.

Center the bracket on the plywood and mark the holes. Drill holes big enough for the t-nuts and install them on the back side. Hang the plywood on the wall and mount it with the lag bolts or the deck screws. If you are using lag bolts, make sure to pre-drill the studs before installing the lag bolts. Since I can install a screw with one hand, I often use 2 deck screws to initially hang the plywood on the wall, then drill and install the lag bolts.

If you use only deck screws, try to find ones marked with a shear force rating and over build by a factor of 2-4. Or just install at least 6 or more per stud to be safe.


1 Hot Receptacle 2 Light Fixtures 1 Switch - Is it possible?

According to your diagram, yes it is possible.

You would connect it similar to your existing bathroom switch.  Run a #14/2 ROMEX (or other appropriate cable) to the light fixture.  The white wire would tie into the white wire on your diagram. The black would connect to one terminal of your switch, and you would connect the other terminal of the switch to the black wire in your diagram (the one on the bottom).  Bond the ground wire to the other grounds in the box or the ground screw.

Alternatively, you could power the new light from the existing switch.  With a 2 wire cable, connect the white to white.  Connect the black of the new wire to the red existing wire along with a pigtail (a 6" or so short wire).  Connect the pigtail to the top terminal of the switch.  This will allow one switch to turn both lights on at the same time.


Any concerns with running a camper with a 15 amp connector

It is fairly common for RV and trailer owners to use a 30-15 amp adapter while they are stored, to power the on-board trickle charger for the battery, for lighting, and for the refrigerator.

The problem is when someone uses the AC and a combination of these other things. You may very well trip the breaker in your home panel, and/or end up with an adapter that looks like this:

The rule of thumb is that if you need to run the AC, run only the AC unless you have a 30 amp circuit for your un-adapted power cord.


We call those "shiners" and it happens to the best of them (although having them "all over" is indeed a bad sign).

The best tool, because it can reach into stud/rafter bays, cuts nearly flush, and is the tool least likely to cause damage, is an end nipper:


after power cut - fuses all on and no power? (to pool filter)

Sometimes when breakers trip, they can look like they're still on.  Try turning it off, then on again.

There may be a fused disconnect, which is just a metal box with a door, with a little handle thing inside. Pulling the handle thing out, cuts power to the fuses.  Then you'll have to remove a cover plate, to gain access the fuses.

Without seeing the equipment, it's difficult to provide an accurate answer.  If you post some photos, we might be able to help.


An Inverter AC has a compressor that contains a induction motor (commonly, 3 phase) that is driven from a VFD (variable frequency drive) rather than from the mains directly. Due to that an Inverter AC has a compressor that is capable of variable speed operation. Which results it it being able to modulate its cooling capacity. Thus you could have a 2 ton AC that when not so much cooling is needed operates at 1 ton continuously rather than switching on and off. This results in a more even temperature and better dehumidification.

Non-inverter AC have a compressor that operates at constant capacity and as such it must be properly matched with the cooling load. A state that never happens as they are only properly sized for the hottest days and oversized the rest of the year. As they turn on and off, the evaporator coil get too cool when on and too warm when off to dehumidify.

The problem that result from having an oversized AC do not happen with a Inverter AC and its a variable capacity compressor. As it dynamically matches itself to the cooling load of the building. Allowing it to slows down (before turning off) and speed up rather than turning off and on.


How do I attach a shelf to a plaster wall invisibly?

What about a floating shelf. You wouldn't be able to put much load on it on a partition wall though.

Here's a good Step by Step on How to Build Floating Shelves from The Family Handyman


Tankless water heater - not consistent hot water output

We have a basic Bosch tankless, NG 117 kBTU/h, with a standing pilot light, no a/c power required, all mechanical controls, discontinued model I think, been in service 12 years. It worked fine until I changed to low flow shower heads (1.4 gpm). I took out the flow restrictors in the shower heads and the water heater worked again. So that is my experience.

Your Noritz NR981-OD-NG is larger and with more features so there are more things that can go wrong. If you remove your shower head and get full flow of hot water, does the water get hot? Or if you turn on all the hot taps in the house, do you get hot or even warm water?

Is the variable burner at fault? Is it stuck on 16 kBTU/h? Is the gas pressure and flow adequate for the heater? Can you tell from the gas meter if the heater is pulling the amount of gas required for maximum 200 kBTU/h heating?


Christmas lights: getting rid of the half that doesn't work?

It depends on how they are wired. Many strings have two (or more) "parallel" strings of "series-connected" bulbs.  Since each of the series strings are independent, then other parallel strings can be safely removed.  Remember to carefully insulate the cut ends so that you don't electrocute someone.


Is using a humidifier to make paint dry slower a good idea?

Altering the dry time (shorter or longer) is something I would generally not advise.  As the water evaporates the paint cures.  Altering the dry time interferes with this process.  This can lead to bubbling, cracking or even the tint separating from the base.  Now, are you going to run into problems for sure?  Probably not, and if it works for you by all means go for it.  I worked as a painter for years and there are two methods I have settled on that work for me.

This is probably the best for someone that is not overly adept at painting because it requires less speed.  Cut (do the edges with a brush) the entire room; ceilings, walls corners, around switches vents etc and let it dry completely.  Go back around the room with a roller making sure your last pass on a section of wall is a floor to ceiling un-interrupted pass (this helps eliminate roller texture being visible when it dries).  The last thing to mention here is roll as close to the edge as possible overlapping with your cut work otherwise the texture difference between the cut work and roll work will be glaringly obvious (particularly with light shining on it).  Edit: oh and if you are doing 2+ coats, cut multiple times first, then roll multiple times.  The more layers of roller texture over the cut work the better.
The second method involves either a second person (one cutting one rolling) or moving much more quickly.  This method works essentially the same except you move around the room in chunks and you want to roll over the cut work before it dries.  This is my preferred method, it looks nicer as the coat is more even (opinion).  Edit: and to be clear, ignore the edit above for this method...

Beyond that my standard painting disclaimers, use good paint, use good brushes and rollers.  Good luck.


what's the minimum depth of a wire channel in a concrete ceiling?

If you cut a "trench" in a concrete ceiling, you potentially weaken the strength of the structure. Not a good idea. Better to use already available surface mount wiring channel (trade name "Wiremold" for reference only) and if it bothers you, change your attitude about it. Or hide it beneath some architecturally unnecessary structure, like a faux beam made of stryrofoam and painted to look like the concrete (people sell this for that exact reason). Compromising safety for aesthetics is never a great plan.


Simple test RFI tests for fluorescent bulb replacement

A FM radio tuned to a weak station may indicate if there is interference, and tuning it to a frequency with no station may also work as detector. Muting must be switched off. An AM radio can likewise detect interference in lower frequency ranges.

LED bulbs/lights often are a big source of problems concerning RFI. Due to the pulse width modulation in the LED power supply, a wide frequency range is emitted if no filters are used in the LED electronic. There are cheap LED bulbs with a simple RC- network as power supply resulting in less interference, but they flicker - visible by quickly moving a finger or pen up and down in front of them.

When shopping LED bulbs, a RFI test can be performed with the radio (and earphones as antenna) that comes with many smart phones, but a muting switch is often missing.
When purchased via Internet, LED bulbs can be tested at home and sent back if they fail.


Are there ball-check valves available for pex?

I haven't seen any direct-crimp check valves, but I have seen some "sharkbite" style spring check valves.  They take up very little room and are easy to install.

These will work on PEX or other types of pipes and can be removable if you think it has become inoperable.  I personally prefer anything with moving parts to be threaded or otherwise removable to make replacement or repair easier, but that's not an absolute rule.


Connecting earth wire with motor water pump

Q1: I would look at American bonding rules, in terms of what is legal as a ground rod.

Q2: I recommend pigtailing your grounds.  That is, one wire comes from the panel, a second wire travels to the next outlet, and a third short wire goes to this outlet.   All three wires are spliced together using whatever method is legal.   The reason to "pigtail" is that you need to be able to remove an outlet for repair, without breaking the grounds to downstream outlets.

Here are the best practices in the US, which are about as good as anywhere in the world. We create a well-established ground/earth connection with ground rods or bonding to a water pipe.  This ground wire goes to the main electrical panel (which contains the circuit breakers or fuses).

As it happens, in the US we bond neutral to ground. That is debatable, best to follow local codes.  If this is done, do it in the main panel only! Do not bond at sub-panels or other locations, and never misuse ground as a neutral.

From the panel, we use metal conduit, or run a ground wire to every outlet, junction box, switch etc. in our system.  If the ground is being added later, it may be run separate from the other wires via any workable route, as long as the wire is not in danger of physical damage.

For 30A or smaller circuits, US practice uses ground wire the same size as the main wire (bigger is allowed).  For larger cables, or in Europe, the practice is to allow a somewhat smaller ground wire.


Your question is so general that it can only be answered in generalities. Assuming you are referring to lights that are turned on at specific times, there are several methods.  You can use a purely mechanical timer with cams that turn on switches that, then, turn on lights.  One step up is an electrical timer run by a synchronous motor that also turns on lights at specific times using relays or switches.  For more versatility, a microprocessor can be programmed to behave as a timer and to activate mechanical or solid state relays to turn on lights at programmable times and durations. Light sensors can be added to this programmable timer to turn on lights only when it is dark.  Motion sensors will turn on lights when motion is detected.  There is no limit to what can be done with the proper sensors and programmable controllers.


Is there a way to improve the appearance of a covered front porch roof that uses corrugated plastic roof panels?

One of my business partners is a roofing and gutter company in Eastern NC.  It varies, but code requires a membrane roof on a .25/12 pitch and I have seen a number of houses around here with a small covered entry like what you describe with a EPDM (black rubber membrane) roof.  Typically it will be trimmed with a metal edge band and doesn't look bad at all.

My concern, at least around here, would be when we get a good rain with wind involved.  The water may not drain off fast enough and if the wind pushes it against the house, you have potential for water to find it's way in.  Therefore, I would recommend flashing the membrane up behind the siding or fascia depending on how you frame the roof.

EPDM (rubber membrane) roofs this small are within the realm of possibilities for a do it yourselfer.  Be sure to do your homework on how to install these and take your time to get any and all wrinkles out of it.


Can't find SEER rating for Bryant Split AC system

Is the Bryant website unavailable to you?
Taken directly from https://www.bryant.com/en/us/products/ductless-systems/


Is it possible to replace just the garage door opener console?

Many garage openers and remotes use a standard radio code for communicating, with the ID number programmed by a bank of DIP switches; you just have to set the remote's DIP switches to match the opener's. It sounds like your door, though, works with remotes that each transmits a unique ID, and your opener's controller can be taught that ID.

There are, however, "universal" remotes. For example, Liftmaster sells remotes that work with a broad variety of openers; if you check their compatibility table you may find one that works for yours. If you still have one working remote then you're probably in luck; a new remote can "learn" from the old one.


Privacy Fence: Is this minimalist design efficient?

For 30 years, assuming concrete, I'd go with un-boxed metal u-channel posts.   I'd put bevels on the rails. A 45 degree bevel on the top. It should slant away from the pickets  to shed water and dirt away from the pickets. And a 15 degree drip-edge bevel on the bottom to keep the water from running back towards the pickets. I'd get full inch rough sawn air-dried pickets from a saw mill, not the 9/16" pickets from big boxes, though there is something to be said for more rails and thin pickets.

And since price/labor is a function of the number of pieces, I'd use (2) 2x6's for the rails instead of (3+) 2x4's.


Can a toilet be properly installed without a flange?

The flange and accompanying bolts hold the toilet firmly to the floor and keeps the seal between the toilet and the floor.

Without the flange or if it is broken, he would have to attach the toilet to the subfloor with wood screws, and if the floor is rotting out, those won't last long.

Sounds like it will need further repairs sometime soon.

Good luck!


I'm not aware of any device on the market but I could imagine a solenoid valve with us 555 timer chip connected to a water level sensor where it would reach minimum and then start the timer for a minute or so, enough time to fill it. That would do the trick. It could be made battery operated. I wouldn't know how to describe how to build it. It's more electronics than DIY. Setting up the flapper properly is an art form, especially when retrofitting one.


How can I hide television cables on a brick wall?

You can't just throw power cords through walls

Obviously, this handyman makes a couple bucks with a drywall hole saw, punching holes in walls and telling people to drop their TV cords and cables through the holes.  For signal and data cables, sure.  But for mains power cords, that's illegal.  You should fire this guy, as he's probably been doing lots of illegal and dangerous work for lots of families, and have someone competent check the work he's done.

It doesn't work for mains power cables for two reasons. First, you can't enter or exit a wall, except at a junction box. Second, wire inside walls must be a different type, as the safety requirements are completely different.   Have a competent person run conduit or special in-wall cable such as NM from any convenient outlet to a site behind the backside of your TV.

Also if your TV is powered by low voltage cable and a wall-wart, and total power is less than 55W, the low voltage cable can go inside the wall directly. The wall-wart cannot!

The rules for data cables are more flexible. However the brick in the wall is not random.  That's going to require either finding a route around it, or having an engineer determine whether it is safe to remove it.  Holing it large enough to pass data cables through will be effectively the same as removing it. Those bricks could be holding up your house.

(Yes, I know. It's the never-ending battle between architects, who have to make the house actually able to stand up, and interior designers who want those annoying structural features to go away.)

Another option, after fitting electrical socket***s*** behind the TV, is to have a qualified professional reroute the TV cable (and ethernet?) to a location directly behind the TV, and then mount the cable box behind the TV also.

I assume you are dealing with a Roku3 or Comcast style cable box where the remote is radio-based; older less sophisticated cable boxes use infrared-based remotes which require line-of-sight to the cable box.   You can detect an infrared remote by seeing how far away it'll work at night, and then try again in broad daylight with direct sun blasting the cable box.  If broad daylight reduces the range, it's infrared-based. (the sun is very loud with infrared light, which the remote has trouble shouting over).


I have this light and I don't know how to open it

I have the same one...the definitive answer is as Grant says.  One of the clips pulls out enough to remove glass!  No screws or screwdrivers needed.


First wooden slide drawer of plan chest stuck close

Try a dehumidifier or air conditioner to reduce the humidity and shrink the wood.
If patient, wait for winter when that tends to happen naturally in heated buildings.


Doesn't matter what system you use if you mark the sashes and the frames the same way and your system provides unique numbers/letters/nicknames/Braille encodings for each window.
1,2,3,4,5...
a,b,c,d,e...
000,001,010,011,100...
John, Paul, George, Ringo...
Eenie, Meenie, Miney, Moe....
I,II,III,IV,V...


Suggestion installing receptacles on basement wall?

Surface mount boxes and conduit are the usual. I don't believe you'd have to run conduit all the way back to the box if you terminate it properly.
You could also hang 2x4 lumber from the ceiling joists as a pseudo-wall, or simply plywood and attach wire and boxes to that.


Replacing a Light Fixture with 2 Sets of Wires

The light appears to have two sockets for bulbs, each with their own set of wires. The black wires are hot and the white are neutral. The single bare wire is the ground.

The two black wires should be joined together, along with the hot wire in the fixture box that comes from the wall switch. They should be stripped about 1/2 inch, twisted and covered with a wire nut.

The two white wires should be joined, along with the white neutral from the fixture box. Similarly stripped, twisted, covered.

The single ground wire is attached to the bare or green wire in the fixture box.

There is sometimes confusion about which wires in the box are which. If there was an old fixture, you should be able to connect the new wires to the same wires as before. If not, you will have to confirm which wire is the switched hot and which is the neutral. Color is usually the guide, but occasionally the color rules have not been followed.


Would it be better to temporarily lay vinyl on a carpet, carpet underlay or floorboards?

Vinyl flooring will fail in short order if laid over something soft like carpet or carpet padding. It's not designed to flex and stretch as it will under foot traffic and furniture, and more concentrated point loads will simply tear it. It'll also wrinkle as it moves and stretches, creating trip hazards.
It must be laid, even temporarily, on a hard surface.


What could have caused a partial-panel service interruption when my dryer was started?

I think what you are trying to say is that you momentarily lost a phase. By the way there are 2 phases in you panel usually labeled A & B. Each one will read 120V to the neutral (ground) and 240V when measured phase to phase.

The momentary loss just might be a power company failure, but you might also be losing a phase in the panel. It might be just a loose conductor feeding from the meter to your panel or you might have a lose connection where the main id attached to your bus or your dryer breaker may not be making good contact with either its conductors or bus. Or like you said you may have a main going bad but that would be the most unlikely situation.

Open your panel and look for any discoloration or burned insulation around the breakers. When the dryer is running feel its breaker and the main and see if they feel warmer than the other breakers. If you have one check them out with an infrared thermometer. If you have a voltage meter you can test across the breakers and see what kind of voltage drop you are reading. It should be around .05 to .03 volts. If its reading somewhere around .1 to .3 volts you are reading a higher resistance in the breaker than usual and may be damaged. Also check the conductor landings on all breakers including the main beaker and make sure they are tight. There will be a lug torque chart on the panel door if it hasn't fallen off. If it's missing you can go on Sq D's website and they will have a lug torque chart.

I am surprised that if your utility company came out they didn't mention whether they had a phase loss or not since they should get an alarm and record if that happened. If you think this is testing is a little over the top;

This is the end result of what might happen.

So good luck and stay safe.


How can I bring more light into this shower?

How about a glass shower door, a combination of clear and frosted glass? They can be ordered to size and are not expensive.

If glass doors are not an option, you can install one or more battery operated led lights in the shower (see enclosed picture).


So much has happened in this area recently. AFCI stands for Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter, CAFI stands for Combination Arc Fault Interrupter. There are 2 types of arc faults:  1) Series (loose connection) and 2) Parallel (like a short, but not drawing enough current to trip a normal breaker.  You can't use a PON (plug on neutral) breaker unless you have a PON panel, which are fairly new. Most arc fault breakers these days handle both.  THere are also dual function breakers (DUFIES!) that handle both types of arc faults, ground faults and over-current protection. Since you said you didn't want ground fault protection, you don't want a dufie breaker.  Depending upon the location of the fridge, and which NEC code is in effect where you live, that may not be code legal, if that matters to you. 2020 NEC code requires practically everything to be GFCI protected.
So having said all that, unless you have a PON panel, you need the breaker with the pigtail.   I'm going to get snipped and yelled at  by all the legalistic people here for this, but if this isn't going to be inspected, for a dedicated Fridge circuit I'd just use a regular breaker. I think it's still code legal to swap a AFCI/GFCI breaker for a regular breaker if you get nuisance trips.   Let the hate me begin.


If it was me I would just paint the paneling it doesn't look that bad with at least 3 coats of paint. You can even fill in the grooves with wood filler or spackle.

There is several basement systems that use panels but to have it installed is very expensive and I have not been able to find the panels to buy.


how to remove these screws without taking a huge chunk of wall with them

I believe you are describing an "expansion wall anchor". Here is what the manufacturer states:

  Primarily used in drywall, the hollow wall anchor is a medium duty fastener. Once the body of the anchor is installed, the screw can be removed and items can be changed without disrupting the anchor. The tip has a drive point to pierce drywall easily.

Here is a picture.

The only way to remove any expanding or toggle-type anchor (with minimal damage) from the wall is to push the anchor into the wall hollow and spackle the opening.


Code requires a minimum 12 AWG wire for a 20-amp breaker. You are fine with #12 wire. I have wired quite a few homes where the owners wanted 10-gauge wiring. 10-gauge can carry more current but is not needed unless it is a very long run: over 100 feet.  Just to give an idea, #12 is rated for 40 amps with THHN but residential is limited to 20 amps for safety.


How can I find the circuit breaker that my outdoor outlet is on?

The first thing to check since this is an outdoor outlet is to see if there is a GFCI device built-in ("test" and "reset" buttons on the outlet). The GFCI may have cut power to the outlet. Sometimes several outlets are connected to a single GFCI so if there isn't one at that outlet look for others nearby. All outdoor outlets are required to have GFCI protection since the 1970s, although sometimes older homes haven't been updated.

If the GFCI is fine or you can't find one, next check the breaker panel. A breaker that is tripped should is identifiable because the switch is in the middle (neither ON nor OFF). However sometimes it can be difficult to tell, especially with older breakers that have a little bit of wiggle.

The easiest thing to do is to turn them all fully OFF and then ON, one by one. Alternately, some circuit breakers have the GFCI built into them, so try the "Reset" button if you see one.

Once you have identified the breaker, update the label next to it so that you don't have to guess next time.

If you can't find a breaker that restores power, check for a sub-panel somewhere and/or double-check for a GFCI (could be somewhere unusual).

(Bonus tip: if you are trying to identify the breaker for an outlet that works, plug something loud into it: a radio or a vacuum cleaner turned on. Then when you are at the panel you can hear the sound stop when you have flipped off the correct breaker.)


When hanging a double layer of drywall, do both layers need to be fully screwed to the resilient channel?

Yes, both sets of screws are required.

Two layers of gypsum board is generally used for two hour fire wall protection. The protection (and rating) comes from the proper installation, including proper nailing for both layers. If a fire develops and causes the top layer to fall, then the second layer would not have approved fastening to develop the two hour rating.

If the second layer is used for sound control, then no, the additional fastening is not required. (Sound control is developed in the material, not the fasteners.)


What could cause low water pressure in tub and no water coming out of shower head?

It sounds like one of your valves is not working correctly.  It could be that the handle is slipping or that the valve is clogged.  Does it feel like the handle is turning the valve, or is it slipping? If its slipping you can probably just tighten the screw.

As far as replacing it, you might get lucky and find a replacement valve, but in the event you don't, they make remodel plates which allow you to relatively easily replace a 3 handle setup with a 1 handle faucet.  The remodel plate covers up the area in the wall/tile you'd need to remove to swap it out; you don't have to tear out the entire wall.  If you can get in behind the shower you can probably do it without the remodel plate.


How can I stop my washing machine drain from overflowing?

It sounds like the pipe is partially blocked and water can only get through at a slower speed.  The drain at the hot water is the lowest point so that's why it is coming from there.  The blockage could be anything, from debris that came in through the pipe in the service closet or a sock that made it out of the washer.  Since it's after where the water is coming out of the service closet then you might be able to get a drain snake the problem but you might have to get an expert to get it cleaned out.


Is an HVAC license required for DIY home owner AC installation in the State of Georgia?

The type of unit called a "package unit", where the condenser and air-handler are combined into a single outdoor unit comes from the factory already charged.

That solves the refrigerant side of the equation.  Don't actually know if that is sufficient in Georgia or not.

Some un-named individual who lives in my house in NC installed one of these and, so far at least, has gotten away with it.


How to remove a 40mm shower head without extra tools?

If you have a thin leather belt of sufficient width to engage well the fitting, consider to wrap it around the fitting as snugly as possible. Leave sufficient material at each end of the wrap to secure the ends against each other.

One way of looking at it is the leather will form the shape of the letter P. The vertical bar of the letter P is where to attach your existing wrench. Place the moveable jaw of the wrench in the portion that will contact the fitting when moving the wrench. As you begin to apply torque to the wrench, this jaw will compress the leather against the fitting as well as providing better leverage for releasing the fitting.

Obviously, you will want to tighten the jaws as firmly as possible on the leather strap ends. As you begin to apply force to the wrench, you may be able to further tighten the moveable jaw even a small amount, but that may also require three hands.


Should I cap one vent in a two vent stack?

No. If you cap one, it's no longer a vent. You need vents for the plumbing to work correctly. In some cases you might combine several vents in the attic to reduce roof penetrations, but if you already have two holes in the roof there's not much to be gained by that now (perhaps when you next re-roof, if it's practical to combine them in the attic and all the sizes are make to work.)


Is a leveled wood frame for a basement floor a good idea?

I have a basement floor that is concrete.

When we finished it off, we used a product called DriCore as the sub floor.

This is a plywood with a plastic bottom.  It's specifically designed for basements, and it raises the floor a little bit.  The disadvantage is that you essentially do the floor twice. :)  Also the cost is higher.

With that said I have had this set up in place for about 4 years now and it works well and looks great!


How do I connect a polyethylene water supply line to my refrigerator?

Watts claims their Ander-Lign fitting is universal and specifically says it can be used with plastic tubing carrying water.

The fact that they are using an insert makes the fitting stronger than the usual water filter/frig water supply fittings which are simple "push in" type fittings.

Here's an example of the other style:
http://www.freedrinkingwater.com/parts/fittings/jg-whitepoly-male-connector.htm

I think you should be fine.


Should I form and pour the concrete all at once?

If you don't care about leaks (or want drainage, so the dog is drier) forming the rim, pouring the rim, and then pouring the central slab is similar to whats typically done in a house basement. The joint between the rim and the slab will generally leak. If you pour a slab and then pour the raised edges on top, expect failure - if to scale, those are very thin sections of concrete and would be quite weak. You could key them with a form board into the slab face to improve the mechanical bond and thickness of the additional pour, but on this scale that's not much different from just pouring the rim first.

The usual reason for attempting to pour a structure like that all at once is to have it be waterproof - a monolithic pour will be much better at that - but's more complicated to do, as you either need to form the top of the depressed area, or (more commonly) form the rim so that the inside form is open, pour the rim (letting it ooze to the inside) and judge the slump and initial set such that you can get the top of the rim struck off without overfilling the central area, yet still be able to strike off the central area. In this case, that would seem to make things wetter for the dog, so I don't see it as an avantage.

For the easy approach, consider using 4" concrete bond blocks for the rim - no separate form to build, just lay the blocks, pour them full, and then pour the middle. Toss in couple sticks of rebar to make it robust for not much money.


How to fix this leak in my on-demand water heater

To identify the source of the leak:

Dry it thoroughly.
Come back in a little bit (depending on how fast it's leaking) with a dry paper towel.
Starting at the top, carefully wipe around the blue PEX/brass fitting junction - check the paper towel for moisture.
If it's dry, move down to the brass/white plastic junction.
If it's still dry, continue moving down until the towel shows water.

When you've wiped around an area of the fitting and the towel comes up wet, you've found the source of the leak.
Is it fixable?
That depends on where the leak is.
If it's in the white plastic, that's probably not fixable (i.e., don't count on just gluing it back together). It looks very much like a bespoke piece that you will have to order from a plumbing supplier or direct from the manufacturer. Once you have that part removed, you may discover that it's just a fancy connector that could be replaced by some standard brass fittings. Your best bet would probably be to take it to your local plumbing supply house or home improvement center and find some fittings that match the threads on the heater end and on the existing brass fitting end (i.e. bodge something together that will work).
If it's in the PEX or the brass fitting, those are off-the-shelf, stock items that you should be able to source from your local home improvement center and replace. The replacement technique will vary depending on exactly where it's leaking, and would be an excellent topic for a new question with clear, focused pics showing exactly where the leak is.


Is there a way to use timer switchers and dimmers that were designed for incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs?

You'd think a dimmer would just lower the voltage.  Nope. That'd be a variac, and would make the dimmer weigh about 20 pounds.   Actually, old dimmers use one of a couple of "hacks" to dim cheaply, at the cost of doing really weird things to the AC power waveform.  These methods are extremely optimized for incandescent bulbs only.  (This happens at the cost of power factor and adding a lot of line noise to your house's electrical system.  if you were to hook a 120V-rated speaker to your power line, you wouldn't hear the perfect sinewave hum, you'd hear a crunchy bunch of noise, and not the pretty MBV kind. Your other equipment doesn't really like this.)

However, the LED screw-in-bulb manufacturers are perfectly aware of these obsolete dimming techniques.  It is possible, though not exactly "free", to build an LED that can

dim
"read the tea leaves" of the weird waveform to determine what brightness the dimmer is trying to make
include a circuit to actively allow the current leakage that old "neutral-less" dimmers require

This ability is not free.  The cheapie manufacturers hedge for price, hard, and big-box sellers like Home Depot and Walmart really pin their providers to the wall to shave every fraction of a penny. So you bet those features are not included in run-of-the-mill bargain price bulbs as many consumers prefer.

Use quality bulbs engineered for this use

On the other hand, upscale vendors know there's a need and have labored to fill it.  Again not a thing you'll find at the Dollar General.  But if you deal with a Tier 1 supplier like GE (who has built a lightbulb or two in their history), Sylvania, Philips, Cree... so basically the Phoebus Cartel plus Cree... you will find plenty of LEDs that will do the job.

You may find them from Tier 2 vendors also, one of my faves being Ikea, whose quality is unearthly good for the price point. I don't count LoA, Utilitech and Feit, they fall in the last category IME and I have the dead bulbs to prove it.

Remember the bulbs you need should not be as cheap as the bottom shelf grab-candy. If they are, they're cutting too many corners.  Playing nice with old dimmers is a hard problem and the builders need their price to make a quality product.

As far as those Tier Fell off a truck in Shenzhen vendors like you find in the old Dollar General, stop buying from them. Those products are specifically designed to sell to suckers.


Water is leaking thru my smoke detector and water is pooled up around the bottom of the ac in the attic

Air conditioneres make water from atmospheric humidity

they all have a drain,  some have a pump  that feeds the drain.

It could be that the pump is broken or that the drain is blocked leaking, or disconnected.


advice for cantilever on temporary, free-standing wood structure

If it were me, I would erect two posts a fair distance apart at the edges of the yard and run a clothesline or other sturdy line across from their tops.

The posts can be put in holes dug into the ground for semi/permanent use, and/or staked with ties.  I would not attempt to make a base to hold the posts up because the leverage of a top line is so high there is always the potential of pulling the posts down.


Recommended proximity of HVAC vent to return air

I'm not a HVAC engineer, but your reasoning and theory sound good and well thought out to me.

I strongly believe (until I'm proven wrong) that moving the vent to the other side of the room would make a (noticeable) difference to the room's overall temperature during the warmer months.

Does the same duct-work heat your home during the winter months?

If yes, you will also want to take that into account when repositioning the vent.


Tell the difference between mortar and grout?

Color would be one indicator, other than that in the short term there really isn't a way to tell the difference because grout and mortar are very similar the only big difference is that mortar has lime and grout does not. Over time mortar will/can show signs of efflorescence, a white chalky looking film.


What is this next to the kitchen bar sink?

It looks like my glass/ bottle washer. Is there a knob that turns the hot water on? Mine only had hot water ran the sink until hot set the glass on the wash push the button it would go for 20~ seconds great for rinsing home brew bottles out, those I had to hold the bottle in place because I lost the holder.


Minimum vertical pipe height under kitchen sink drain

There is not a minimum you can do what you want. I agree with freeman that it may be prone to clogging or drain a little slower but you can make those changes and see how it works it may be just fine.


Today the valve went back on at 12:55pm local time. Also, while it was on, it did show valve 2 active on the display and the 25 minute countdown timer that I normally use for it, so this is 100% the controller.

I could not find any program setting or schedule that had only valve 2 going on at 12:55pm (which also is impossible according to the scheduler of the controller which works only in 15 minute intervals), so I assumed it was some kind of weird or bad programming state, especially since I finished replacing and rewiring the valve around 12:55pm on Sunday (though this may be a coincidence).

Earlier today I did a factory reset and re-programmed my nightly schedule from scratch. We'll see tomorrow whether or not that worked for sure. ;)

EDIT: it worked! Controller was in a weird state, a factory reset fixed it.


What should I do about an overflowing septic system?

It is entirely possible that if the toilet was running hard enough that that is the source of the problem.  Assuming the weather conditions are fairly dry and surrounding ground is not saturated, I'd give it a day or two to subside and let the leach field catch up. If the problem doesn't clear quickly with the toilet fixed, I'd call for a pump and have them check the backflow of the leach field to determine if there is blockage downstream from the tank.  Good luck.


Why does my bath faucet drip for a few minutes after it's shut off?

I have an American Standard Cadet 2-handle faucet which does precisely the same thing.  And don't feel lonely, I do the same as you too. lol I bet the final pesky dripping has to do with the associated residual layer of water on the inside of the pipes after the handles are turned off.  Just like an upended ketchup bottle which is empty enough to no longer squirt, but left inverted will eventually cease dripping once gravity has removed the layer of ketchup from the inside surfaces.  I realize this is opinion, however I've pondered the pesky drips while sitting in my tub many, many times over the years.  That's pretty personal experience...


Opening up a kitchen wall without a permit

You need the permit anyway even if you open the wall only partial because you need to add a support beam to carry the load and engineering is necessary. If you search the web for permit office and your county name it should be pretty simple to find. For the work you want to do you need more than just a permit. A structural engineer and some calculations are necessary. If you go the unofficial route you need to add a support beam in the opening and you need to double up your framing to carry the load. A good framer should get that done without much of a problem. Again, I am not liable!


Trying to design and build a system where water pump into multiple outlets (pvc) evenly

In general to get the water to flow evenly to all three outputs you have to ensure that all the paths from the pump to all three outputs is the same including length. In addition what ever nozzle or outlet opening you have has to be exactly the same for all three. To achieve this you will have to split the three outlet flow pipes before you get to the outputs. Something like this:

I have made the above sketch to show how the paths from the split point to the outlets is the same length.

Now with that said if the distribution pipe inside diameter is large compared to the outlet nozzle and the pressure inside the pipe has a significant drop across the nozzle then the pipe path similarity and length as stated is less significant. What that means is that the manifold type outlets like you show in your drawing would work if they are close together and the pump maintains a head of pressure in the lines.

On the other hand if ends of the delivery pipes to the outlets is just an open ended pipe then the similarity of the paths will be important to achieve the same flow at each output.


Is wiring a 240 volt heater from a sub panel different from wiring it to the main panel?

No, as long as you land the ground wire on the ground bus of course -- but that's a caveat when wiring anything to a subpanel.  (I'd run it using /3 NM so that there's a neutral run to the heater in case it's needed for outlets on a baseboard setup or something like that...and in that case, you also have to remember to land the neutral wire on the neutral bus, but again, that's just like any other circuit.)

The hots hook up just like any other 220V circuit.


What are these small holes in my foundation?

These could be made by termite treatment. For on-slab houses, they drill holes in the concrete and inject poison (termites can burrow through concrete). Since the holes would be covered by the flooring they didn't bother filling them in.

You can fill them if you want but there's no harm in leaving them as well.


What is happening to the surface of this shutoff valve?

You can replace the handle but you've probably have to take it off a new valve that you'd buy. No reason to do that though, just wire brush the valve and throw a little rust remover on it. That's the main shutoff and there could have been a leak above it ,maybe on another faucet, that just ran down the pipe before or after the insulation was added. So clean it up and keep an eye of it to see if it starts to rust again. I wouldn't worry about operating the valve as they are probably the best valves on the market.


Minimum distance from a water pipe to a junction box

Hmmm...  Assuming, from your use of 1/2", that you are in North America, it's actually something that people argue about (in the US anyway). Here is how the NEC reads in Article 110.34, Work Space and Guarding:

(F) Protection of Service Equipment, Switchgear, and Industrial
Control Assemblies. Pipes or ducts foreign to the electrical
installation and requiring periodic maintenance or whose malfunction
would endanger the operation of the electrical system shall not be
located in the vicinity of the service equipment, switchgear, or
industrial control assemblies. Protection shall be provided where
necessary to avoid damage from condensation leaks and breaks in such
foreign systems. Piping and other facilities shall not be considered
foreign if provided for fire protection of the electrical
installation.

The argument is in the interpretation of "Service Equipment" when it comes to residential panels. If the panel is a "sub-panel", meaning NOT the first place where the utility feed lands, then some people say this rule does not apply. Other inspectors do not make the distinction.
Then, there is the term "... in the vicinity of...", because it doesn't state a distance. In a previous portion of the same article, they call out for 3ft clearance as "working space", but some inspectors interpret that to mean only IN FRONT OF the gear.
Then there is the phrase "... or whose malfunction would endanger the operation ...". Is a 1/2" water pipe likely to burst and spray on a load center?
My best advice is to as a local inspector, they are the final say-so.


What does a slow beep mean from a Klein non contact tester?

Have you read the user guide included with the tester? What is the model number?

I think Klein testers have a fast beep for higher voltages (48-1000 volts), and a slow beep for lower voltages (12-48 volts).

I'd use a multimeter (volt meter) to test the wires for voltage.  It could be that the non-contact tester is picking up phantom voltage, but you'll want to be sure before cutting the cable.

If you have internet over the power lines, you could be picking that up.


Should I remove the 2x4 between the joists of this deck?

I see no reason for that board, but a photo would help clear things up. I also assume that the joists are hung on the beam using standard steel hangers and approved fasteners. If all that is correct, you should be able to remove the board.

I'd guess that it was added to support decking joints that fell over the beam. Presumably the decking ran parallel to the beam. A better approach would have been to put individual blocks in that essentially carry the joist through the beam gap.


Will running a dehumidifier near new concrete cause it to cure poorly?

1) The issues around curing concrete too quickly are where the concrete is thin and in direct sunlight (i.e. a sidewalk in the sun). The concrete in your basement has cured enough to be structurally sound. The rule of thumb I have heard is that concrete cures 85% in the first 7 days. 10% over the next 3 weeks and the remaining 5% over the next 20 years.

2) Even if the concrete had just been poured, you would not be able to make it dry too quickly with a home dehumidifier. Home humidifiers can only draw 30-100 pints (3.75 - 12.5) gallons a day and that would require you had it plumbed into a drain so you never had to stop it to empty it. Plus the moisture from the concrete just can't transfer to the air that quickly.

If you have moisture in your basement that is resulting in high humidity the risk of mold should be your concern. Run a dehumidifier and measure moisture in each basement room. Move the dehumidifier around as needed.


I think that painting over the silicone is out just because it's a different surface to begin with.  Assuming you had a paint that would stick to it long-term, the paint in that spot will always have a different sheen.

Removal is the best option, and it may be a matter of trying options to see what will work best and damage the ceiling the least.  Chemicals that soften the silicone can make the job easier, but I think they would seep into the drywall and create similar issues for painting.

You say you are worried about scraping, but I think it may be a better option even if it means patching the area with spackling or similar if you gouge the drywall.  I would try very rough sand paper (below 80 grit, then maybe a brass wire brush, then a sharp scraper.

I admit that I have never tried to remove exactly what you are dealing with, so take this as one man's opinion.