"would demolition of painted wall be done in a special way so that paint dust (with lead) does not spread?"

YES, if a professional contractor is performing the work they will have the materials checked for the presence of lead and either take appropriate measures to protect their workers and the public (if they have the expertise, equipment, and license required), or subcontract with a specialty outfit for lead abatement.

NO, if this is a substandard, unscrupulous, or ignorant contractor; or if there is no regulatory driver for such considerations in your part of the world.


Just make sure the stain is good and dry, and you'll be good to go.


Do you use tempered glass for kitchen cabinet doors?

I agree with keshlam & it's definitely not overkill. I haven't run into any tempered glass paneled doors for uppers, except my own. Tempered is required for anything within 18" of the floor. And, most cabinet makers will tell you to go get regular glass to put in the empty frame doors they ship.

But, I'd (& have) go for either Tempered or Laminated Glass if possible. Laminated Glass is regular glass glued to a rubber membrane to retain the glass, you're local glass shops may have this to custom cut for same or next day pickup. So, no big shards hurt or kill someone if something happens, like an earthquake.


I would drill a 1/2 hole in one of those studs, every 12 inches, and put closed cell spray foam in that cavity. Closed cell is mold/mildew resistant and will expand at a reasonable rate to fill that area.


How to keep an attic over the garage cool?

You're basically asking how to convert an unconditioned space into a conditioned space.

This requires opening up the space to the existing conditioned part of the house and closing it off to the unconditioned space.

I challenge your belief that it isn't vented.  I suspect that it is vented - there will (or should) be some kind of air gap between the top corner of your office wall and the roof line.  This is mandatory, as unconditioned spaces must properly vent to the outside to allow airflow which prevents moisture buildup, thus preventing rot, mold, etc.

I won't design the solution for you (plan my project questions for me are frowned on), but if it were me, I would bump the wall out a couple of feet and build a complete closet, WELL insulated, with vents on the top and bottom, with a low power continuous fan running to make sure the air got transferred.


How to restore/replace an old wood window without losing daylight opening

YES! It is possible and likely will be rewarding as a labor of love.

You will need to become familiar with the parts and assembly of old wood windows and will learn the names and functions of the various elements as you progress in your endeavor (e.g. stool, parting bead, stile, rail, etc.). There is tons of info on the internet of things.

You will need to become proficient with stripping, scraping, sanding, painting, glazing, etc.

You will need to find a good hardware or window shop that has knowledgeable staff and are willing & able to procure the parts and materials you will need (lots available online too).

You will need some specialty tools, like this "wood sash paint cutter":

pic from stuccohouse.blogspot.com

and various other common woodworking tools.


Can you lay ceramic/porcelain tile over existing mastic without grinding the floor?

I know this is an old question but you would us a modified thinset and tile.  NO NO NO you do not use mastic for a basement floor.  Next time it flood you will have tile/asbestos coming up.  If this option wasn't discussed with you then you had the wrong contractors.


Can I fit a 16 amp fuse into a UK domestic 13 amp plug?

Whether or not it can be done, I cannot recommend it. By putting a 16A fuse in a UK domestic plug you are potentially overloading the cable (max for a UK domestic plug is 15A rated according to this pat testing website).

A spur off a ring main, using 2.0mm2 twin and earth cable is rated for 20A. Two 16A plugs into the sockets on that spur could hence significantly overload it, starting a fire in your walls.


Why is part of my home electric going out?

With both 240 and 120v devices having a problem I would first call the power company and report the problem to them.
Usually they will preform a service safety inspection for free (they don’t want a fire in their gear).
Then I would check the type of panel there 2 brands known to have these problems the first is federal pacific (FPE) the stablock model of breaker is known to fail (to the point I will only remove them). The other is zinsco , I haven’t seen the extent of problem on these but others have reported.

If neither of these brands one thing I will do is turn all the small breakers off, then cycle the main breaker on and off 10-20 times. This cycling the main breaker can clean carbon off the hammers in the breakers and reseat them For a temporary fix.

If you feel comfortable remove the dead face or front cover from the panel and look at the main feeds looking for overheating damage (I would expect your electrician at least did this).

Providing us with a photo of the panel and model number we may come up with additional possibilities if the utility comes up with nothing, but most of these failures I have seen have been on the utility side other than a few main breaker problems or rule of 6 “main” for the lower section.


Sounds okay to me. I'm guessing one cable is the feed to the box, another goes to the switch, and the final cable goes off to some other part of the circuit.  The black wire in the cable going to the switch, is connected to the black feed wire. The white wire in the cable going to the switch, brings switched power back to the fixture. Since the cable only has two wires, the white was repurpsed to be the switched "hot" lead. This is fine, though the wire should be marked in some way at both ends to indicate that it's no longer a "neutral".

This is what the circuit looks like.


Why can I not assemble conduit around cable, but must pull it after assembly?

Guaranteed Reusability
If you run the wire as you are putting together the conduit, there is a possibility, unless you are truly careful about all the details, that you could end up in a situation where your initial set of wires are perfectly fine, but that pulling them out to replace them - or more likely pulling in new wires (out is "easy") will run into unexpected problems. If you assemble everything first then the first time you pull wires through you will find and fix any problems. Plus you will be more careful (especially if you don't do this kind of thing every day) to play by the rules so that you will be able to pull that first set of wires without a problem.
Remember, conduit serves three different functions:

Physical protection
Grounding (for metal conduit)
Ease of use - i.e., add or replace wires as needed

The first two, which obviously are the "safety" issues, will be the same whether you do conduit-then-wire or conduit-with-wire. But for the 3rd, it can make a big difference.


Congrats on joining the world of DIY.  I'll give you a short simple answer, but I think you need to talk with a knowledgeable sales person at your paint store for specific details.

The basics will be drop cloths for the floor, good grade painters tape to mask out your trims, a good grade 2 or 3 inch Purdy brush to edge out around trim and along ceiling, a cut in bucket, a paint tray, roller handle with short extension and a good grade 3/8 inch roller cover.  Good luck


Would a bit of grease on overhead door cables or bearings cause the springs to break?

TLDR: The spring failed naturally due to old age or manufacturing defect.  Not your fault. As an aside, learn to properly grease garage doors.

Oh boy.  The bull-oney here is thick.  Let's start with Springs vs Door Motion.

The Spring is a counterweight. THAT IS ALL.

We're not even talking about lifters yet.  Just the door, with no external forces to move it. Capische?

The door is heavy. You could not hand-lift it.  You should not rely on an active mechanism to sheer-muscle-lift that door.  Why not? First if the lifter breaks,  the door guillotines and everyone under it is dead. Problems start out as minor (and reveal by stiff motion) so you want to detect that early, not brute force it, breaking the door further until guillotine. So muscle-lifting a door is Right Out.

The trick with counterweighting a door is as it rolls upward, it weighs less and less, because part of it is going horizontal.  That is pretty linear.  Springs are also "pretty linear", so they're a natural.

The point of counterweighting is that the door weighs effectively zero in all positions and will stay where you put it, not wanting to go up more than down in any position.

The counterweight interacts ONLY with the door.  If the door moves, the counterweight instantly tracks with it. No interference!  If the counterweight slackens, catastrophe follows.  Which brings us to the First Rule Of Garage Doors:

Opening forces act ONLY on the door, never the counterweight.

  We had four large 14x20' tall doors. The door and spring were conventional, but some genius put a geared lifter on the spring shaft. Worked going up. But going down, you were slackening the spring, and hoping gravity would pull the door down to keep the cable taut.  Springs are instant.  They follow the door motion no matter where it goes and how fast.  Doors, not so much, especially when horizontal and gravity isn't working on them. The cable did not remain taut, came off the spool, guillotined... And that's why you never do that.

So.  Back to your problem.  Assuming your installer did not make the above mistake...   It does not matter how the door moves.  The spring counterweight should be able to keep up with it no matter what. Therefore, anything that affects door motion - like grease in the tracks - has no bearing on the performance of the spring.

The spring failed all by itself, in its own time, simply because it was old.   Final answer.

Why are you greasing door tracks?

Grease is not a magical "make things move that should" elixir.  Actually, making things not stick together is a complex problem that you can't just throw one chemical at.  And garage doors are a case in point of this.

Grease, being sticky, is a magnet for dirt and dust. Those are abrasives, so the net effect of greasing is the opposite - you might as well have used spray sandpaper.  Grease makes sense inside areas sealed from the environment, like roller bearings.

Now what about door tracks? Remember how a door functions. The vertical part of the track, the track is basically a guide.  The door is hung by the counterweight cables, and has basically no horizontal motion at all, except for wind loads. So on a still day, garage door rollers are doing zero work (in the vertical) and certainly don't need any grease.

But, the horizontal part of the door tracks?  When the door is horizontal, all its weight rests on the rollers, and that's where they earn their pay.  (However if your door is sticky when it's barely open, that's not the problem since it isn't horizontal).  Effectively, the horizontal track is a roadway and the rollers are the bicycle wheels.  Now let me ask you something.  To make your bike roll freely, do you grease the road?  Of course not!  You make sure your bike wheels are top top.  You clean the road to keep debris out of it, because debris slows you down.

The same here with garage door rollers.  Make sure the rollers are tip-tip.  Don't lubricate them with grease, because dirt magnet.  Rollers are cheap and if they seem to be anything but excellent, just replace them.  As for the horizontal track, make sure it is spic-and-span.  Particularly remove any grease and the accumulated dust/dirt/sawdust that it attracted, that got up there.

There is one spot that really does need lubrication, but grease really will not do.  You notice the garage door's track is on a very slight angle, so the  door slides slightly  toward the building as it drops.  At bottom, it makes a tight seal to the building.

If the door is sticky at the first few inches of opening, look there.  However, grease is right out, because it'll get on your clothing. Go to a tractor supplier and get a quart of Paint-On Graphite Lubricant and a few acid brushes.  This stuff looks, walks and quacks like dark grey paint, but is nicely slick.  It's oil based, so be prepared to throw the brushes away.

The graphite is heavy, and really loves to settle to the bottom leaving useless resin at the top. It's like cookie dough on the bottom and water on the top, and it takes 20 minutes to hand stir it to lump-free.  So ask the hardware store to give it a good long run in their paint shaker upside down. (Buy quarts; the gallon is too heavy and would break their paint shaker).

To keep it from separating while you paint, pour out 1/4" of depth into a paint cup or old soup can, at that depth it will stir as you wet your brush.

Rollers are cheap and I don't sweat just replacing them, but graphite paint is one thing I will use on rollers with open bearings. A light touch will suffice, don't drown it.


Are all stainless steel plumbing fixtures lead free and safe for potable water?

Just to be a smart azz if you check prop 65 stainless has chromium way worse some say.

To be truthful about lead stainless has no lead. Stainless has issues , have you ever seen a stainless boat? But for drinking water I would verify the seals were safe  more than the metal. but as far as lead I would not be concerned.

Just for fun ;
For many years 60/40 solder was used with copper plumbing but back in the 70’s we changed to non lead solder on water pipes for copper but at that time plastic pvc and cpvc became the standard of it was not copper , prior to this it was galvanized, and prior to galvanized lead pipe was commonI have found lead water supply pipes in homes that were pre 20’s but mostly only drains after that time.

To answer your question stainless will not have lead , but verify the seals are potable this is the maybe in my answer.


What to try next when pipe joints leak with both thread sealant and with teflon tape?

Never put pipe dope on the threads of the female fitting. It will allow pipe dope which is not water soluble to clog aerators and put contaminants into the water. If the threads on both male and female fittings are threaded correctly and with sharp dies the threads should hand fit up to 2-1/2 threads.Pipe dope and tape can be applied in excess. 4 wraps of tape on the male threads with a quality Teflon tape is sufficient, wrapped over itself clockwise looking from the narrow end of the threads. Or paste pipe dope should be applied to the first 4-5 threads of the male threads and not gooped on. No pipe dope whether tape or paste should get inside of pipe. Not a good thing. Tighten the joint until it is snug, not until it can not be tightened any further. It is a feel or touch thing you will aquire with practice. Turn on pressure whether liquid or gas and test for leaks. If there is a leak and you didn't tighten the joint so tight you hurt yourself you can tighten it little more to stop the leak. If you tightened it so tight there is no more tightening you must untighten the joint completely and start over. PITA. Have been doing this for 48 years and has never failed if threads are good quality threads. Problem today 50% of threads are crap. Remember the fit up. If to loose or to tight get rid of bad fitting.


How can I cut a cinder block wall to run large round duct through it?

Chalk a circle the size that you want. Drill holes every quarter of an inch or so. Drill bit only need be thick enough to not break as it passes through. Do this all the way around till you can gently hammer out the hole.


Installing hardwire EVSE from existing NEMA 14-50?

It's pretty straightforward.

Remove the wires from the old receptacle.  Your two hots are brown and yellow, and it doesn't matter which is which.  Usually that is color coded red/black or black/black, but brown/yellow is absolutely fine.

The cover plate on that junction box is what you call a mud ring, meant to be behind drywall.  You don't need that, so you can get a blank cover plate for that box, they make domed covr plates if you want that.

The old receptacle and mud ring go into storage.  A NEMA 14 is a nice modern safe receptacle, no reason to throw it out.

You run either a whip or EMT conduit from the charger to the junction box through one of the knockouts.

Then you splice the wires inside the junction box.  You may not need neutral; if not, just put a wire nut cap on it and tape it so it stays.

Use the size of wire specified in the installation instructions, or larger.

Change the circuit breaker to the size specified in the installation instructions.   If the instructions do not say, then look at the wires you used to connect, particularly if the wire whip came with the charger.   Otherwise breaker size is determined from the smallest conductor size (do not consider grounds or wiring that is entirely inside the charger proper):

6 AWG -- 50A or 60A breaker
8 AWG -- 40A breaker
10 AWG -- 30A breaker
12 AWG -- 20A breaker
14 AWG -- 15A breaker


What are my options for dealing with/getting rid of storage items I do not want/need?

You are responsible to see the items all the way to their final disposition.

Yes, it's a pain, but you have to do it.

You can ask the city if they can do a special garbage pickup.
You can call your normal garbage company and ask them about a special pickup.
You can rent a dumpster short-term and fill that.
You can ask your movers to dispose of the items in their dumpster, however, if they dump the items down some alley instead, and the government catches you, you will be fined heavily even though you acted in good faith.
You can hire "get rid of your junk" companies to make it go away; they may try where possible to profit from its sale, however the same warning applies.
You can put a "free stuff" listing on Craigslist, Freecycle, Nextdoor etc.  -- but if the stuff is not taken, you are still responsible for its disposal.
If you are renting, you can walk away from the stuff.  The landlord will hire movers to remove it, and bill the cost of this to you.

Taking the items to Goodwill/charity is probably a lose; they are glutted with excess furniture, so they are very picky what they'll take.

If you abandon the items at a house you are selling, it could interfere with closing, and at least, the buyer could sue you in small claims for the disposal costs.  "Broom clean" is the standard for both sold houses and rentals; look it up.

My best advice is if you don't want to dispose of it, don't buy it in the first place.


Replacing shower valve cartridge; water supply

Shutting off the water line at the entrance to your home should be good enough for most instances.

The only exception is if the water heater is above the location of the cartridge you are replacing; water might flow from the heater to your location.  To avoid burns, open a tap at a higher elevation and drain the line/tank or if you have shutoffs at the tank, close them.  If you are draining the tank, it would be best to turn off the gas or electricity to the heater to avoid damage to the tank and/or elements.

If you are still concerned, just turn off the tank.  Occasional shutoff to the water heater is not harmful.  But your tank should have a pressure relief valve to avoid over-pressure and damage.

Air in the waterlines is not harmful.  Open your taps and turn on the main and purge air from the system.

If you shut off the water heater, only turn it back on after you have purged air from the waterlines.

No matter which procedure you took above, it is very likely you disturbed scale on the inside of the supply lines and it will cloud your water.  Let the taps run for a few minutes to purge this as well.

Related:
Is it safe to shut off cold water entering water heater?


A high-quality #12 or #14 pan-head screw (or the metric equivalent) of 2" length or more will carry that with no problem when mounted in a stud through 1/2" drywall.

For hollow-wall scenarios, such as drywall, use a substantial anchor rated for more than the weight you wish to hang, that grasps the drywall from the inside, such as a toggler (Pop Toggle pictured):


Water being sucked into cold air return from humidifier pad

There should be a damper on the 6" pipe from the hot air plenum to the humidifier, closing it part way will help but the most probable cause is not enough return air openings in your house. If you have wall returns, take the grills off and make sure the air is going through and nobody forgot to cut the openings in the bottom of the wall or in the ductwork itself. Also get a copy of the heating design submitted in the building department to make sure it matches what's in your house, including the furnace size. It wouldn't be the first time a furnace was put in that was all they had in stock instead of buying the correct size. Mine was replace with one at double the btu output and I had to modify the orifices to half the output to get proper heating. High efficiency furnaces with too high of an output only wastes fuel since the design only brings them up to the proper efficiency after running for 20 minutes so you don't want it with a much bigger input than called for in the heat loss design. If everything is it's supposed to be and you closed the bypass damper and still having issues, you will need to add more returns in your house, even if it's a floor return grille in your return duct, or if the Return duct running down the sie of your furnce is under 10 to 12" on the narrow side and under 23 or 24" on the width, it should be changed to something around 10 x23" to 12 x 23", if it's still bad then you are really starving for Return airs!


Isn't range hood with filter top fan better?

The slats are louvers which cover the entrance to the housing and prevent the blower from accidently ingesting things like paper towels or hands stuck up there. The small knobs on them are spring loaded levers which allow for removing the three panels for washing. Filters, in the sense of actually cleaning the air are uncommon because you wouldn't want a flammable substance like foam or paper catching grease. Instead there's usually some metal mesh or trap to catch grease which periodically needs cleaning.

In your particular case, the second model is superior. Grease is going to be mainly confined to the louvered panels which can be removed and chucked in the sink. (Possibly dishwasher if you're adventurous.) It probably also uses a blower rather than radial fan for higher airflow. I imagine the first is cheaper.

To answer your final question the fan is above the panels, but it's probably inside a large plastic baffle which reduces the rectangular opening down to a smaller round hole. It's along the same lines as a vacuum cleaner, which has a large square opening to clean with and a smaller round exhaust at the bag, with a fan in the middle. The difference being that the fan and exit in this case are still several inches in diameter. (The "fan" may be a centripetal blower too, to provide better airflow. Think leaf blower rather than desk fan.)

Incidentally, your existing fan also requires internal ducting because it can be installed with either top or back exhaust. The difference is that the fans are in the front of the ductwork.


Your toilet fill valve has failed. You probably will need to replace it.
Whether it can be cleaned and rinsed out or adjusted or repaired, or must be replaced, depends on the type of fill valve. There are over a dozen common styes. Do a net search for "toilet fill valve images" and you will see what I mean.
You will also find the picture that matches your valve, which will lead you to the manufacturer, which will probably lead you to a tutorial on what you can do to maintain it. I can't tell you exactly what to do unless you post a picture of your fill valve.
The reason I think you will probably need to replace it is, locking up until the main water pressure is removed is a strange failure mode for a fill valve. However if your fill valve is a type that can be cleaned or adjusted, try that first (if you can find out how to take it apart).
Don't forget to close the supply valve before working on it, and if you have to temporarily open the supply valve to flush the line or whatever, hold a heavy towel or rag over the partially disassembled fill valve to avoid spraying the room.


A standard water softener will remove most of the calcium ( and Mg, Ba, Sr , etc) from the water supply. It will not remove existing scale in the pipes, etc. It would be expensive to remove the existing scales ; flushing with dilute hydrochloric/muriatic would do it , but not a job for the homeowner. The taps that don't plug may have no strainers; also you may have mostly "temporary" hardness. In temporary hardness , carbon dioxide acidifies the water and keeps the calcium in solution, when the water is heated the CO2 is removed, and then the calcium precipitates/scales.


What happens if I shave a little sliver off electrical wire with a utility knife?

If you are talking about something the size of a splinter then you have no problem. I doubt if you shaved enough off to change the ampacity of the wire.  The main reason not to use a knife (other than safety) is scoring the electrical wire and making it easier to break off.  Wire strippers normally go enough of the insulation to make it weak enough to come off with little effort.


Adding back removed 3-way switch from 4-way setup

Power off.
Pick any 2 of the capped wires formerly attached to the 3-way.
Nut those two together.
Leave the third wire nutted independently.
Power on.
Throw any other switch in the 3/4 way group.  Does the light turn on or off?

all other 3/4-ways work correctly -- fail*. Pick a different pair and go to 1.
lights do not work in either position -- success. The two nutted together are the messengers.

Mark both messengers with yellow tape (or other appropriate marking) -- messengers are interchangeable, so you don't need to distinguish them from each other.

The two messengers go on the brass screws of the 3-way switch.

The remaining wire is common and goes on the black screw.

* Or, if you just want to eliminate that 3-way, you can stop right here and you are done.


Harper’s rule: Anytime you install a GFCI receptacle, the very first thing you do is find the terminals marked LOAD and lay a piece of tape across those terminals. The reason is to protect yourself from using them by mistake.

You do not ever use the LOAD terminals on a GFCI unless you know exactly what they are and how to use them. In fact I recently installed an older GFCI unit and the manufacturer had indeed installed a label across those terminals saying exactly that.

In your case, that makes installation pretty easy.


The only way to determine if you have a bad gas valve or ignitor is to check the amperage of the ignitor. They sell Ampmeters at most hardware stores. Unplug range. Gain access to the wires going to the ignitor. Clamp the amp probe around either wire to the ignitor, and a safe distance from burner. Plug in the range, turn on oven bake and watch the amps increase. The ignitor needs to pull at least 3.2 amps before its hit enough to ignitthe gas. The gas valve won’t open until the :.2 amps is reached. If you have less than 3.2 amps after a few minutes, then your ignitor needs replaced. If you have 3.2 amps and little or no gas comes out the valve, then you have a failed valve. Unplug to make repairs. Turn off gas when replacing the gas valve. Test for gas leaks.


How do I rewire 2 different switches controlling 2 different lights so that each switch is a 3-way switch controlling both lights?

If you have accepted the idea of having to rewire the circuit and change out the switches to 3-ways. Then here is the wiring schematic for a source coming in the first switch.

You do have to parallel the two lights together. That's the only thing that is not shown.

Good luck


It's illogical to compare the efficiencies of gas to heat pump systems because the way they produce heat is completely different. One directly burns fuel to produce heat, the other consumes energy only to move heat around. The source heat for heat pumps is essentially free. Thus calculating heat pump efficiencies will yield numbers well over 100%, something gas can never do.

In addition, if you really want to determine the root energy impact of each system, you need to consider the efficiencies involved in producing the energy and delivering it to your home. This will vary greatly by how each energy form is produced. Hydroelectric has a very different efficiency than coal fed power plants. Some utilities vary the source of power seasonally and through the years, so the root number is a moving target.

While it is true energy costs fluctuate, it still makes the most sense to compare your actual direct costs from using each system. While the actual cost of energy will vary significantly through the years, unless there is a major change in your area regarding sourcing each type of energy, the relative costs of each type should not vary nearly as much. When comparing costs, you must consider installation costs, maintenance costs, and eventual replacement costs. Comparing only direct operating costs can be very misleading.


Hole in wall behind and around plug socket (England, UK) – do I need an electrician to fix?

It sounds like there is no back box on that socket.  Sockets aren't normally screwed directly to walls, but to back boxes that are fitted into the wall.
If there is nothing flammable behind the socket, then that's not actually dangerous.  If there is flammable material, then the socket really should be re-fitted with a back box.
Legally, you can do simple repairs on your own electrics if you are competent to do so.  There is no specific definition of what "competent" is.  I have no way to tell if you are competent to do the work, so the decision is really up to you.


How to keep home automation complexity under control?

It sounds like you're using keypads to control sets of lights. Two important things:

Label the buttons well and Keep it simple and consistent.

For example, if you're using scenes, have the buttons say the name of a scene that makes sense, depending on the location. If there's a keypad in the hallway outside the kitchen in the living room, make sure it's clear which scenes control the kitchen, and which control the living room. Also, if you're using scenes, avoid mixing button types; eg, having "dim" and "bright" buttons in addition to scenes is confusing.

I'd also echo @Rob Napier's point that reliability is a huge factor. If you press a button and it "sometimes" works, it will just lead to frustration (in effect: don't use X10).

Also along the lines of being consistent, pick one or two different types of switches, and stick to those. If you have a mix of toggle switches, rocker dimmers, 6-button and 8-button keypads, it's just going to be confusing. Standardize on a manufacturer and style, and stick to it.

The other obvious thing is really talk to your users. Make sure you know what they typically do, and adjust the system appropriately. Maybe they always go into a room and want a certain light on at a certain level, but you never do .. make sure you talk to that person so you know to set it up so it works they way they expect.


What is this metal roof trim that was torn loose by a storm?

Technically it is the rake board, or the metal that covers the rake boards. It supposed to be held in place by pop rivets and/or nails and tucked under the metal drip edge that is part of the roof system. It could be reattached, but it surely dented, if not cracked where the repeated bending has occurred from all the flapping in the wind it has done. It should be replaced for best results, but could be set back in place until it can get repaired properly


How do I repair deck sloping on one side of the house?

I had a deck where the rim joist bowed out, and the cross joists came unattached.
I used two car jacks to get everything back up to level to be reassembled and use proper joist hangers.

Safety tip, use the jacks to lift, but once up, set a stack of lumber or blocks to hold it up while working underneath.  If you have some 4x4 stock (or 2 2x4s edgewise), don't lift a specific joist, but use a cross piece to lift several and spread the force.


Sanding, Blasting, or chemical for paint removal from old metal cabinets?

Sanding will leave irregular sworls all over the cabinets.
Blasting will leave that shiny metal with a matte finish.
Chemicals may or may not be rough on your lungs & hands & the carpet in the living room.

Although it falls under "chemicals", try brake fluid first. Really. It's very effective as a paint remover, and its fumes and dermal effects are negligible, and it doesn't evaporate off quickly like commercially-available paint strippers do. It'll still make a mess on that carpet, though, so do it outdoors.

Sanding... unless you WET-sand, which is unlikely (and dangerous) with an ordinary handheld sander but reasonable with a pneumatic sander... will go through abrasive disks (assuming disks) rapidly; the paint will tend to clog the abrasive long before the abrasive is effectively "worn out".

Blasting... goes through a LOT of blasting media (NEVER USE BEACH SAND!) in a hurry, and requires a pretty healthy compressor. NEVER use any "white" sand in a sandblaster - it WILL give you a case of silicosis, which is a permanent condition much like emphysema.

There ARE some "safe" non-brake-fluid paint strippers out there on the market - they're worth exploring. I know of none that will strip ALL paints, though - there are some paints that steadfastly resist any chemical stripper, forcing you to resort to mechanical means (or question your goals).


How to determine range of wires that can safety fit into wire nut?

You are not wrong.  While Ideal makes great wire nuts, I have to agree those graphs are just junk.  It's not really information that lends itself to a bar graph.
This document is available for US models and gives you the exact info you need:
https://www.idealind.com/content/dam/electrical/assets/WireTermination/WireConnectors/TwistOn/WireNut/UL%20ListedWireCombinations.pdf
Other brands have similar reference materials.  Here is the section for the US equivalent, model 76B:

That's more like it, right?  But it's a lot to put on a label.
The picture in the question is a Canadian version of the wire nut (or would that be a marrette?) and I can't find an equivalent document for their Canadian product numbers.  Ideal's web site was updated a while ago and is half useless.


What could cause a clicking noise in an electric water heater?

For starters, I'd suggest you shut down the heater, drain it completely, and replace both electrodes.

The danger with a water heater this old is that in draining it and dislodging sediment within you could expose small leaks.

At 16 years old, I hate to say it, but you'll probably find it more efficient just to replace it.


Can I control a bathroom extractor fan independently from the light?

Yes. But you'll need to run new cable, and install a new switch (or second switch).
Run the cable
Depending on how the circuit is wired, you'll likely have either a 14/2 or 12/2 cable running between the switch box and the fan/light.  That means the cable contains either 2 14 AWG wires (possibly with a bare grounding conductor), or 2 12 AWG wires (again possibly with a bare grounding conductor).  To do what you want, you'll have to remove the 14/2 cable, and install a 14/3 cable.  This cable will contain 3 insulated conductors, and likely 1 bare grounding conductor.
Install the switch
The most common option in a retrofit situation, is to use a dual switch to replace the single switch.  This allows you to install a single device, that can control multiple fixtures.

Power at the switch

Turn off the breaker, and verify power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Remove the old switch (make sure to label all wires).
Connect the black wire from the feeder cable to one of the black (common) terminals.
Connect all white (neutral) wires together using a twist-on wire connector.
Connect a short length of bare wire to the green grounding screw on the switch device.
Connect all bare grounding wires together using a crimp or twist-on wire connector.
Connect the black wire from the cable going to the fan/light to one of the brass colored terminals on the switch device.
Connect the red wire from the cable going to the fan/light to the other brass colored terminal on the switch device.

Power at the fixture

Turn off the breaker, and verify power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Remove the old switch (make sure to label all wires).
Tag the white wire from cable going to the fan/light with a bit of black electrical tape (this means this wire has been repurposed, and is now hot).
Connect the tagged white wire from the cable going to the fan/light to one of the black (common) terminals.
Connect the bare wire to the green grounding screw on the switch device.
Connect the black wire from the cable going to the fan/light to one of the brass colored terminals on the switch device.
Connect the red wire from the cable going to the fan/light to the other brass colored terminal on the switch device.

Connect the fan/light
Power at switch

Connect all white (neutral) wires together (including one to the N terminal on the fixture) using a twist-on wire connector.
Connect all bare grounding wires together (including one to the fixture) using crimp or twist-on wire connectors.
Connect the black wire to the L1 terminal.
Connect the red wire to the L2 terminal.

Power at fixture

Tag the white wire from cable going to the switch with a bit of black electrical tape (this means this wire has been repurposed, and is now hot).
Connect all other white (neutral) wires together (including one to the N terminal on the fixture) using a twist-on wire connector.
Connect all bare grounding wires together (including one to the fixture) using crimp or twist-on wire connectors.
Connect the black wire from the feeder cable to the tagged white wire going to the switch.
Connect the black wire coming from the switch to the L1 terminal on the fixture.
Connect the red wire coming from the switch to the L2 terminal on the fixture.

Test the installation
Turn the power back on, and flip each of the switches to the ON position in turn.  One switch should turn the light on, while the other operates the fan. If something is not working, you can always find help by asking a question at DIY.StackExchange.


Its personal preference. Couple things to note:

With the top grip saw, its more
natural for me. I look down on the
cut, where as with a barrel grip I am
looking to one side.
The switch placement on a top grip saw is more natural for me as well.  It is usually a trigger under my index finger.  A barrel grip has switch placement on one side.
Top grip are more wrist action saws so they can be easier (I think) to do more scroll work.

It is mostly personal preference though. I would try would a couple saws.  However, I would bet you would be happy with either.


Is it a problem that my bathtub drains directly into the wall?

OK I am going to answer this like you are in the US.   It doesn't differ much but to give a baseline.

To sum it up - This is F'ing crazy as hell, unsanitary, and not code.

So it looks like there is a basin siphoned off from the foundation that drains to a sump pump and the pump pushes water to... who the hell knows (it doesn't matter).

Issues:

If there is a floor (basement) below the tub then a lot of water could eventually cause a leak into the adjoining wall.
If the pump stops working or gets clogged you have a backfill of sewage.
Yep I said sewage.   Bathtub drain off is sewage not soapy water.   There is pee and feces that goes down that drain too.   You aren't taking showers before you shower.
Eventually mold will start growing.   It looks like whoever created this mess did it probably in a smart mcgyver type of way - the materials look to be stone/organic that resist mold.   It can't last like this forever because eventually your hair and other things will get down there, create a spot for mold to grow and it will.
Plumbing like this would certainly void any insurance in almost all areas of the world.   If something happened your insurance wouldn't cover it for sure.

Final thoughts...  This is just weird.   I have seen things like this in France but they were installed WWIIish.   Everything you are showing, shows new materials from the past 30 years.   That makes it really weird.   Also the tub seems rather elevated.  Which makes it even weirder.   Why exit like this when they are for sure going to go downhill to the main branch?

Also my answer isn't meant to scare you or cause you to react drastically.   This could function for quite some time.   It might not be completely sanitary (you have fecal matter right below you) but a shower with low usage - a shower a day... This thing could work for years until the pump goes out, gets clogged or the wetness effects foundation pieces.

And to clarify - YOU cannot fix this.   Your landlord needs to run the shower drain to the main stack so that this can exit with the rest of the sewage from your house.


Appearance of damp after dpc injection - can "good enough" plaster go soft?

"Deficient" render? That is a line of bull. Your use of damp proof course and render makes me think you are UK based. If so, you should have a guarantee of several years for the damp course work, and if so you should demand they fix the problem as they clearly missed a spot. Residual moisture? Don't make me laugh. They need to do fresh moisture measurements and to re-course the areas that still show high moisture content.

At the same time look at your exterior brickwork in the area of the damp and make sure that your pointing and exterior render isn't blown. Also, when it rains make sure your guttering is piping the rain down to the ground properly.


Photos can help, but shingle lots vary even within the same brand and color. Your best bet is to remove a shingle and look for a brand. Once you have that there's probably only one color that's an obvious match.

Either look up manufacturer websites or visit a store with a wide range of offerings and do a direct comparison. Keep in mind that age and normal variation may result in differences.

That said, do you really want the exact same color for another 20 years? Now's your chance to make a pleasing change, even if small.


Why is my toilet flushing slowly and not emptying the waste from the bowl?

It sounds like the clog is far enough down so that, given enough time to let the water drain out, there is enough room for one flush to enter the pipes fully before hitting the clog but not for any subsequent flushes.

Like Nate suggested in the comments, your best bet is to snake it. Here is a how to: https://www.wikihow.com/Snake-a-Toilet


If the joist is directly over the hole, there is a junction box (called a saddle box) that actually fits around a joist. I found them when I was looking for boxes for ceiling fans. This might keep you from having to do a separate box in the attic. I found some at Lowe's, but seem to be widely available, and come in various configurations depending on how the hole aligns to the joist.


This depends completely upon what method is used to convert the electrical energy into light.  Is it an old Edison bulb (incandescent), florescent, LED, something else?

It will also vary significantly within each type.  Not all LED bulbs are equally efficient.  There simply isn't any direct conversion.  You need to check the specs for the specific bulbs you are comparing.


Dust off the tone bars.  Loose debris dampens their vibration.
Check the tone bar mounts and positioning.  If a bar is crooked or out of position, it won't ring as well.
Check the hammers on the solenoids.  If there is debris, clean it off.  If they have dried out or cracked, remove the hammer.  That will definitely increase the volume.


What type of exterior floodlight will turn on slowly (or not at all) when it's cold out?

Those look like Metal Halide bulbs.  It is normal that they take upwards of 20 minutes to get to full brightness.  They can be affected by cold temperatures, but this could also be a failing ballast or igniter (sometimes part of the ballast).  There could also be some poor electrical connections.

These should not be turned on and off frequently - you have to let them cool for 20min before restarting.


Insulating/preventing heat transfer on non-IC rated recessed lights

Air Tight recessed lights might prevent air seepage from a conditioned area to a non-conditioned area, but they can't do much about thermal transfer.

Proper insulation is the only way to fix large amount of thermal leakage. However, your predicament is going to be that your fixtures are not insulation-contact (IC) rated.

With non-IC fixtures, you'll not only find

  Do not install insulation within 3" of fixture

But you'll likely also find

  Nor above fixture in such a manner to entrap heat

Example

You'll need to check the warning labels and/or instructions for your particular lights, but this all but eliminates the option of putting some sort of heat-trapping box above a fixture with such warning.

You will find it difficult to find a 4" IC rated remodel fixture. They just aren't readily available on the market, except for some speciality LED-driven models.


When do you use polyurethane vs. water based construction adhesive?

I use water-based (project or panel) adhesive on foam board or any plastic which the solvent will dissolve, or where cleanup of spills is a concern. Solvent-based (heavy duty) for almost everything else. It dries faster and holds better.


You can't average the monthly usage over a number of days because the loads aren't constant. Consider the following two scenarios:

A 100W light bulb that's turned on constantly for the whole month (30 days). This uses 100W * 24hr / day * 30 day / month = 72 kWh for the month.
A 2400W heater that runs one a day for an hour. This uses 2400W * 1hr / day * 30 day / month = 72kWh.

Doing an average usage as you did, you would incorrectly assume that both scenarios need the same size generator. But, the second needs a bigger generator since the load is bigger (2400W vs 100W). They use the same amount of electricity because the smaller load is on for much longer.

Your house is similar, in that there are some big loads that run for short periods of time (AC being the biggest usually), and then there are some small loads that run for much longer (cable boxes, lights, etc). Your generator needs to be sized to provide enough power for all the loads at once.

To determine the size of generator to get, you'll need to consider what you want to run off of it. A lot of people only run a subset of their circuits from a generator to get the essentials - HVAC, a fridge, maybe a couple general receptacles. As a simplified estimate you can take the size of the breakers you want to run (in amps) and multiply it by the voltage (120V for single breakers, 240V for double) and add them up. AC units can very quickly use up most of a generator's capacity!


Well Pump Setup: Best Materials to Use for Pipes

Subject to being a matter of opinion, but for contrast:

Pump, 200PSI black poly water pipe, pitless adapter (freezing climate, exit well casing below ground) 160PSI black poly waterpipe, house, filter, pressure tank. Plain poly, not pex. No fancy upcharge brand, just basic well poly marked NSF-PW (National Sanitation Foundation Potable Water, as far as I recall.) This is the bog standard well pipe used in every place in the Northeastern USA that I've had dealings with a well. The 200PSI stuff is because the well is 300 ft deep and the pressure down there is somewhat higher to lift the water to the surface, so 160 would be dubious. It's also sturdier for hanging the pump on.

Steel pipe? What year is it, 1949? PVC - stuff shatters much too easily for outside use, even before sun exposure.


What could cause a toilet to bubble occasionally, even if sewer line is clear?

Regardless of how clear the drain lines are, if you have blocked, obstructed or inappropriately sized plumbing vent stacks, the bubbles could be emanating because the air being displaced as the drain line fills from the shower, have no easier path of resistance than your toilet.

TL:DR You've cleaned and investigated downstream, maybe it's time to look upstream.


Should my carbon monoxide detector be reporting zero PPM?

No, 400 ppm is NOT a safe level.  Here is the US Govt. CPSC information on CO:
CPSC CO Information
To quote the relevant part:

What CO level is dangerous to my health?
The health effects of CO
depend on the CO concentration and length of exposure, as well as each
individual's health condition. CO concentration is measured in parts
per million (ppm). Most people will not experience any symptoms from
prolonged exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm but some
heart patients might experience an increase in chest pain. As CO
levels increase and remain above 70 ppm, symptoms become more
noticeable and can include headache, fatigue and nausea. At sustained
CO concentrations above 150 to 200 ppm, disorientation,
unconsciousness, and death are possible.


Sanding floors where radiators interfere

I thought I’d seen this question before on this site but I can’t find it

There is a sander made specifically for this problem

Check with a floor finishing tool rental place. It is called a radiator edger or a toe kick edger sander.


Plastic junction boxes and covers in floor?

Plastic junction boxes and plastic covers are generally fine for wire connections. However, every junction box must remain accessible. You cannot put a floor over them.

If you were to have the junction boxes mounted through the floor, they must be protected, and plastic covers would probably not be considered acceptable in most jurisdictions. Metal covers, or specialty floor boxes and covers might meet code.


How is a floating desk top supported against the wall?

You would need to mount wooden strips along the walls that screw into the studs. Then the desktop sits on top of those strips and is fastened from the underside to the strips.

To achieve a more sleek look you could also consider the use of some lengths of aluminum angle iron that is screwed into the studs and into the bottom side of the desk surface.

Either type of mounting strip could be painted to match the wall to make it much less noticeable.

You will want to get this mounting strip along as many edges as possible and into as many studs as possible. Cantilever forces due to the open out side corner of the desk can be significant so make sure of two key things:

Make sure that the desk top material itself can withstand the
cantilever forces without a lot of flex and breakage. (Unsupported
thin particle board would not be a good choice).
Make sure that fasteners used up into the bottom of the desk surface
get a good bite into the material.

Here is a picture showing a cross section of the wall and desk showing how the aluminum angle stock would be applied. You would likely want to use screws into the studs that are a bit longer than what I showed.


What is this rubber thing I found by the sink?

Turns out it's a wine bottle stopper. Thanks to UNECS.
http://www.vacuvin.com/270/Vacuum_Wine_Saver.html


How do I reapply travertine tile used for a backsplash on my kitchen wall

With travertine you should be using thinset to apply it to the wall.  You don't really need to grout - I have seen it done either way travertine.  If you don't grout then make sure you use a darker grey thinset as it cures into more of a mortar look and also make sure that the thinset isn't squirting up out of your tiles.  So there is a little cleanup to do after applying the thinset.


Replacing a electric receptacle in the middle of a series

This example should trip the breaker the second it is turned on.
Someone screwed up and stabbed the reds on the wrong side. They probably broke the tab to get half the receptacle to work and not trip the breaker, or pulled the red feeder at the switch.
When the new receptacle is installed don’t use the backstabs--they are the leading cause of failure. Pigtail is the correct method, or use more expensive outlets which have a plate at the screw and allow 2 wires per screw.
The tab should be broken on the black/red or "hot" side. The tab should not be broken on the white side.
Normally the red is a switched hot and the black is a always hot. Since this was mis-wired it would never work with both receptacles.


Rheem Heat Pump A/C Mode Delay Cycle In Hot Weather

Actual, better answer:

The heat pump was definitely overheating. Since the heat wave has passed, there have been 0 issues. The ambient outside temperature is 90-95 °F this week, whereas it was 103 - 105 °F last week. This seems to make all the difference as things are purring along and the home is staying cool. Thanks for the help everyone!


I was thinking the same thing as Isherwood’s comment.
To identify the type cover the remote and see if it works.  if it will not turn on when blocked it is IR if it works it is RF.
One tell tail sign of IR is lenses exposed on the end this is normally a IR diode clear in color , some have a plastic cover over them and this can not be seen.
Both types can be affected by other remotes and even noisy power these usually have low end decoders compared to a tv or similar remote that have very specific signals.
If the unit is RF you can attenuate stray signals from outside the home with foil. Make a small cup shaped foil around the back it doesn't have to touch it can be like an umbrella and signals from the street will be attenuated and reduce false triggers (a sideways umbrella) this will not stop signals in the house but could reduce them.


Running air handler condensate drain into sump?

Well, i don't really see an issue with this since the condensate water is basically distilled water with neutral PH. The legal issue with it may be due to furnace condensate water which contains carbonic acid. Using a neutralizer will take away almost all the acidity, however some municipalities still don't allow either condensate water to be piped to the sump to account for idiocy.

One possible solution, you can get a condensate pump, and have it pump the water though a tube to any sink, or drain you can run the tube to. The only downside is the sound of the pump turning on ever now and then.


How can I reattach an HVAC duct that came loose below the floor?

The tiny screws have obviously failed so you'll need to re-fasten the flange to the subfloor.
It looks like a 6 inch duct so if you can reach the duct with your hand then do this:
Permanent fix

Bring the duct back up to the hole
Drill a hole through your floor and through the flange around the duct

Make sure these holes will be covered by the register
2 holes at minimum; one at opposing ends of the flange. You want 4? Go for it!
The holes need to be big enough for a toggle bolt. The toggle bolt instructions should advise on a hole size

Insert a toggle bolt through the hole and tighten it until it holds properly

Toggle bolts are usually pretty long so you may wish to shop around for shorter ones or carefully hacksaw the longer ones
If your hole is too big and the head of the bolt falls through the floor then you can remove the v-wing, add a washer, replace the v-wing, and try again. Or drill a new hole of course =)

Put your register back in place and enjoy your heating/cooling

Temporary fix as requested in the comments
Instead of toggle bolts you could:

Buy some all-purpose construction adhesive such as Loctite-Power-Grab-Express
Apply it to the flange
Bring the duct up to the floor hole
Drill regular screws through the floor and into the flange
Put your register back in place and convince (lie to) yourself that you will return at some point to do this properly with toggle bolts =)

Since you have to go to the store to buy the construction adhesive anyways then why not just buy the toggle bolts and drill bit instead? It will take the same amount of time and you'll know it's done properly.


How can I remove a mouse stuck in the air duct above a kitchen exhaust fan with built-in microwave?

Where there's a mouse there are mouse droppings and urine... I'd get that microwave out and clean it, if not replace it.

It looks like there are a pair of screws in the front corners of the cabinet going down into the microwave. If so.. those are probably what's holding up the front edge of the microwave. The rear edge is probably supported by some wall-mount bracket.

Don't forget to unplug the power cord. Then remove the two screws at the front and allow the unit to tip downward; after tipping it downward a bit you'll be able to lift the rear off of the wall bracket. It can sometimes be managed by one person, particularly if one knows how the assembly works.. but that not being the case here, recruit help to deal with the weight and any unanticipated fasteners/challenges.

Make sure both you and the assistant are comfortable with the idea of a spooked mouse dashing out of its prison, over you, and disappearing into the kitchen.


Do I ever NEED to remove the angle grinder guard?

I have found removing the guard to use a product like this makes sanding welds flush extremely quick and painless.  At this point you are just using an angle grinder as an overpowered sander, so the dangers of using an unshielded grinder are reduced.

The danger of the grinder comes from applying force to the edge of a perpendicular spinning disc, which creates the possibility that some piece of material will be caught and flung back to the operator, which is why the guard should be positioned between you and the tangent of the disc you are working on. If you use a disc like above you are directing the force perpendicular to the spinning disc so the forces are not as great.


Wiring double-insulated (class II) pendant into earthed circuit

The UK splice blocks make it really simple because they give you exactly the number of splices you need for almost every case. Notice how your splice groups are 2-3-3.   Watch this:

Switch loop; also feeding another lamp (optional)

Always-live coming in from supply (brown, or in old system, red)
Always-live out to the switch  (typically brown)

Switched-live coming in from the switch (typically blue taped brown)
Switched-live to cable to the next lamp (brown) (optional)
Switched-live to this here lamp (brown)

Neutral coming in from supply (blue, or in old system, black)
Neutral to cable to the next lamp (blue) (optional)
Neutral to this here lamp (blue)

Switch loop; also supplying always-live to something else

Always-live coming in from supply (brown, or in old system, red)
Always-live out to the switch  (typically brown)
Always-live to cable to the next usage point (brown) (optional)

Switched-live coming in from the switch (typically blue taped brown)
Switched-live to this here lamp (brown)

Neutral coming in from supply (blue, or in old system, black)
Neutral to cable to the next usage point (blue) (optional)
Neutral to this here lamp (blue)

The only case you'd ever need to splice elsewhere or double-stack is if you had a "tee" arrangement.


Do I need to use any sealant on these threads to prevent water
  ingress?

No you should not use any sealants, chemicals or compounds that are not specifically approved for electrical installations.

  How do I couple unthreaded IMC underground? Do I need to use liquid-tight fittings?

The best way to couple unthreaded IMC is with threadless IMC compression couplings. Yes they do make them and they are expensive and they are not a stock item. Exercise caution when using them. They have a tendency to pull apart during expansion and contraction of the soil. Try and use them where there is less of a chance to do this, meaning at the beginning and end of the trench around the 90 degree ell coming out of the ground or use with an expansion coupling.

Good luck.


Will transformer operate a door bell/chime 200ft away?

Not a standard door bell transformer no.  #1 A standard door bell transformer is sized to drive one chime only.  If you want a second chime you need to design a system.  I recommend you call a manufacturer of chime kits and ask for a tech rep. Broan, Nutone.  Tell him your situation. He will tell you what you need.  A standard chime transformer are 16-volts.  I have used 24-volt transformers on longer runs with success.


Missing control knob for bathroom radiator

This is a knob for a potentiometer, you should grab a caliper and measure the dimensions of the axis, and the internal dimensions of the hole. This will be a bit complex because you need something like this:

See the bit of plastic that sticks out around the back, that takes the axis. This is uncommon, most knobs would be like this:

...without the extra bit sticking out in the back. You can use one like this too, if the diameter fits inside the smaller hole around the axis, this could be easier to find.

Try "boutons pour potentiomètre" or "potentiometer knob" on aliexpress or reichelt...


Matching something like this isn't possible, given the range of color reproduction on our computers. Vendors make samplers of their grout/ color match caulk; that would be the easiest way to roughly match. Alternately, buy a bunch of different color matched caulk from somewhere that will let you return the ones you don't need. Hopefully, the representation on the label will help you choose.


All you accomplish by hanging small pieces and then taping all those joints is to add more fasteners and more lumps in your ceiling. The taped joints effectively make it all a single sheet, just as it would be if you hung larger sheets.

Do a little math and you'll realize that each fastener already only holds up a small bit of drywall, on average. Adding joints actually makes it all less stable.

Deal with your irrational fear and do it the right way. Add more fasteners if it lets you sleep at night, but I can't imagine that this is the only thing preventing that.


how to patch the wall with multiple layers of paints?

First, make sure any loose or chipping paint is removed.
Second, for an area that large, I would use joint compound instead of spackle. Also, a wide taping knife will help.

One more tip: For a relatively small area such as this in an existing house, in order not to get so much dust in your house, I recommend the following:

Be careful not to apply too much joint compound. Use your knife to eliminate ridges when you apply it.
After the joint compound dries, use the damp sponge "sanding" method to smooth what imperfections remain. After this, actual sanding may not even be necessary.


You are ready for a new door and door jamb.


What is the minimum gauge wire required to carry 100 amp service from the meter to the panel?

This question has been answered for a 60' distance on the DIY Stack Exchange and provides additional references for longer or shorter runs.

I suggest that the spelling error is the keyboard proximity of the letters C and V and a missing R, indicating that the OP wishes to carry 100 amp service.


Cheap, effective, non-intrusive...  Adjustable shower rod with heavy curtains - this will help a ton.  If you never want to use the room... stand up an old matress or something similar.


Can I put a LED tube in a high frequency ballast fixture without removing the ballast?

The packaging of your LED tube should specifically state whether or not it is supposed to use a ballast. If you connected a no-ballast tube to a ballasted socket, yes, it is possible that you fried the circuits.

See also the answer to https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/95491/is-it-more-energy-efficient-to-remove-the-ballast-by-using-led-tube


What do I need to do to prepare for a storage shed?

I looked at your profile, but don't know what part of the country you are in. Where you are makes a lot of difference. The building you are considering is a wooden structure, fairly heavy and can hold some cargo. Any building that size deserves a decent foundation. If you don't support it right, it will warp, shift and bend with the seasons, resulting in screwed doors and separations on the siding.since you said the ground can be wet in season, I would recommended a foundation that keeps it off the ground, a vapor barrier to protect he floor and is deep enough to withstand ground heaves if you are in an area where the ground freezes in winter.  If you are in a non-freeze area, I think you may want to at least support the corners and side walls with blocks at least 12 inches in the ground. Any and all water you can stop from attacking your new building will increase it's life span. Your idea of a gravel base with supports would be a minimum. Let me know where you are, and I may be able to give you better advise.


I need a wiring solution for an unusual situation

I would say yes, although you are swapping one code violation for another. The fridge CAN be on with the small appliance counter circuit, but the DW cannot (which is how you have it now).

If the fridge is kept off the SABC (small appliance branch circuit) then it must be on it's own circuit. At the same time, I do agree that having the fridge on with the disposal is the lesser of two evils as opposed to having it on with the counter circuit and GFI protected.

I still do NOT like that the DW is on with the SABC. The DW is likely more of a draw than the fridge, but you have the option of not using the DW at times when small appliances are being used. The fridge does not allow you this flexibility.

I am not an advocate of code violations, but swapping a minor code violation for an even lesser one IMO is not a bad thing to do.

Best case scenario:

Combine the DW and disposal on the 20A circuit.
Give the refer it's own new 15 or 20A circuit.
Keep the two SABC's dedicated to the counter receptacles.


How do I quiet a noisy furnace condensate pump?

My furnace controller has an "accessory" terminal that carries 120VAC whenever the blower is on. I wired a receptacle to this terminal so that noisy accessories (namely a drum humidifier and a condensate pump) only come on when the blower is on. My blower is loud enough to mask the sounds of the accessories. Maybe yours is, too.


Multiple return air vents in single framing cavity

As with anything air is always going to take the path to least resistance. Return air is often overlooked by installers because it will work with just a big open duct next to the furnace. If the rest of the install is done fairly well, l then a poor job with the return mayl not have a significant negative impact on the house. If the walls are open I'd address it now. I actually spend more time on return air than I do on supply. If you have architectural drawings with a heat loss calculation they will specify the required cfm (cubic feet per minute) of supply and return. Then duct and return cavities should be sized accordingly. A single stud cavity is only good for about 120 ish cfm which may be good for two rooms depending on the rest of the system and the size of the rooms and if the doors are undercut, the list goes on.

This is a forced air system www.hometips.com

And this is how you would add an HRV to a forced air system www.finehomebuilding.com


You should not run NM sheathed cable through a cabinet that has doors which open to allow storage.

You should be installing grounded receptacles and using appliance connector cords.


Could a faulty stove burner trip the circuit breaker?

The resistive plates are the main wearing element on an electric stove.  That is why they are made to be not expensive and easily replaced.

If one is tripping your 40-50A stove breaker, stop using it. Repeatedly tripping a breaker to see what happens will tend to destroy things which are not yet broken -- since you are, after all, surging well north of 100,000 watts of power through equipment rated for 1/10 that.  Why are people so unafraid of electricity?


Sloped ceiling - remove hot air with exhaust fan

I usually advocate for a small mini split air conditioner in your case. For less money you could go with a portable unit in the master bed. The problem with adding a new duct is it will imbalance the system if the rest of the house is good. Also when you go to heat in the winter you will get twice the heat up there. As far as a fan up high, I think you will need a whole lot more air flow than a bath fan can move. Also you will then be dumping all your cooled air outside. Shouldn’t work well but I have seen things like this that shouldn’t be a good idea on paper work out due to other factors.


Cleaning a long dryer vent that is completely behind drywall

Perhaps a leafblower (or two?) might clean it out a bit?
Also maybe get advice on how to make the outside vent area fire resistant if the tube does catch fire.


Why do Instructions to Leviton nylon plugs and connectors say “DO NOT use with solid wire”?

Solid Romex style electrical cable is not designed for use as portable extensions or cords. The main reason for this is that the solid wires are not flexible and will eventually crack if flexed too much. The cable jacket is also not designed for it can be moved around, stepped on or driven over.

So with the understanding that the cable has to be flexible stranded wire it is also a requirement that the plug ends attached to the cable have to be designed for stranded wire as well.


How often do I need to regrade the ground around my house?

Regrading isn't typically a recurrent necessity. It may be needed shortly after a home is built, and maybe again a few years later. However, eventually the soil becomes compacted to the same degree that the undisturbed adjacent soil is, and that's more or less the end of the story. Then it's a matter of whether rainwater flows adequately away from the foundation.

Simply put, it varies by home, depending on home age, roof design, soil type, contractor technique, climate, ant proliferation, and other factors. There are no rules of thumb or other guidelines.


Why is there increased dryer motor hum while powered by a generator?

Is your generator producing true sine wave, modified sine wave, or square wave output?

The motor's designed to work on sine-wave AC, which is what large generators are happiest producing, and which is generally the most efficient form since all the energy goes into the single frequency and can be easily drawn back out.

Square wave is easier for small alternators to produce, but has a lot of high harmonics which can cause resonance in motors, sometimes to the point of being damaging. Square-wave alternators may also be damaging to some electronics, for similar reasons.

"Modified sine wave" is a compromise between the two -- it adds another few steps between the most-positive and most-negative outputs. This reduces the harmonics to a level that most motors and electronics can handle safely. There are still going to be some harmonics, which may be made audible by the motor, but they shouldn't be strong enough to be damaging.

If you've got a square-wave unit, consider replacing it. If you've got a modified-sine unit and are still having trouble... well, switching to true sine wave will probably solve it, but you might want to get someone with expertise in this system to take a look at your set-up before you commit to that purchase.


How to shine a dull mark on granite worktop?

Countertops to my knowledge are polished to 3000G and polished with flowing water using special equipment. I have made my own tops and finished the edges using dry polishing pads, and I have seen a minor difference. Your biggest difference you may see is the dull surface from the sealer being removed from your polishing.
Find yourself a silicone based, color enhancing stone sealer, and it may do just what you need.


Just use usual common sense, you know the properties of natural gas.
Always use 2 tools when loosening or tightening fittings or connections.
Do not re-use any lines that have a flare type end.
Try to keep adapters like reducers or gender-changers to a minimum.


How can I keep a door open wide enough for my cat to get through but not my big dog?

It may seem too simple to work, but you just need to cut your own tailor-made cat door.

Basically, a cat can get through any opening it can fit its head through. This usually works against us cat owners, since the beasties have a mind of their own and like to explore. This time, it may work in our favor. So:

Measure cat head (breadth), add 1/4 inch to make things easier.
Cut opening in door about that width, of reasonable height (8" should do the trick, perhaps even less).
Teach cat to go through the door, perhaps with some treats on the other side.
Watch dog try to fit her wide head through the opening, fail miserably.
Watch dog proceed to try to make opening wider by scratching.
Patch up the sides of the opening with metal.

Hope this helps (the cat).


Chase down the matching neutral and remove it.

Otherwise it will drive you crazy, and be a loose end of wire unaccounted for.  What's more, it could wind up still being in use by some other circuit which shouldn't be there.   Part of the reason to fully explore an electrical system is to look for surprises.

Besides, since all wires must terminate in junction boxes, it will violate code and fail inspection.

I don't agree with my colleague that it's necessary to tear apart the ducting system, I feel unreachability is a defense.  But to play that defense, you must positively identify both wires of that circuit, both where they enter and exit the ducting, and fully remove all of that.


Does using central heating increase water usage?

Only if you have a humidifier installed, and in that case it would be a very small quantity.

To determine whether your system has a humidifier, examine the primary ducts near the furnace unit. Look for a tray or housing with a water line and possibly a power cord.

Here's an example. Notice the unit attached to the intake duct. It has a copper supply line and a PVC drain line.


How to connect 3-wire appliance to 4-wire junction box

That is correct wiring. You are in the very good situation of: Had 4-wire, now only need 3-wire. Far more common is either: "Had 3-wire, now need 4-wire" or "Had 3-wire that should have been 4-wire but grandfathered".
The only issue is current requirements. Depending on the size of the existing wires and breaker, you may be in any of the following situations:

Everything OK as-is
Wire OK but need to put in a larger breaker
Wire OK but need to put in a smaller breaker
Need to put in larger wire and a larger breaker.

Can't tell which of these 4 situations applies without knowing the specs of the new cooktop, the size of your existing wire and the size of your existing breaker.


Alas, the refrigerator is dead.

That smoke was the refrigerant escaping.  Theoretically, you can patch the hole or holes and recharge it.  But that will cost more to get right than buying a new one.

Next time you need to defrost, turn it off and let the ice melt.  This will take an hour or two at no risk to the refrigerator.  If you need to do it in minutes instead of hours, use a hair dryer.


AC Unit Blow Warm Air Indoor But Colder Air Outdoor

Because of the need to capture the refrigerant and licenses to get the refrigerant in most places, this typically isn't a DIY job. The fact that the outside unit is running and air is blowing inside suggests that it's not a problem with the thermostat. Check the breaker, air filters, and any other easy to access components for obvious problems. Beyond that, there are a lot of possible issues:

Compressor has failed
No refrigerant or not enough
Controller has failed or wiring has become disconnected
Inside coils have frozen over

Since the first two are the most likely and either will need a professional to repair, you may as well get one out to diagnose the problem for you.


Put them near the sink.
Water hammer is caused by the inertia of the moving water in the water lines trying to keep moving when a valve shuts it off suddenly - so placing them at the far end of lines is most effective.
In "typical" bathroom fixtures of the current era, the sink is also the most likely to be a "quick" shutoff (which is the most prone to causing water hammer.) Valves that shut more slowly allow the water to slow down as the valve is closing, whereas those that close quickly get to all the way shut while the water in the pipes is still moving.


I would recommend that you use the 4x6 timber and place it so that the 6" dimension is vertical.

Make sure to also plan for some additional material to make some triangulation bracing so that the A frames stay solidly in position with the overhead beam. This can be placed inside the frames or on the outside.

It is common to put a cross piece in the A frame to which this angled brace attaches on the lower end. The use of the brace outside the frame is used when the inside brace would interfere with the swing. Use a longer upper timber to accommodate the outside style of brace.


Wiring new ceiling fan with only one hot wire and a remote

It sounds like you have two switches feeding two switched hots and you want to connect both of these to the fan supply wire.
This is probably safe and will result in either switch being able to turn on the fan.
There is a small chance that these wires are on a multi-wire branch circuit and the hots are on opposite 120 volt legs. In this case, doing that will cause a short circuit and hopefully trip the breakers.
I’d recommend, just for general principles, to use just one hot wire and cap the other.


What needs to be done before covering a shared garage wall with plywood from the inside?

Yes, with the diagonal bracing and the uniform horizontal boards of which some were replaced, along with the "paper" that has some missing spots that just happens to be were damaged boards/siding used to be, I would say it is a safe bet that was the exterior of the garage at one time before the neighbors house was built.

If it were my garage and I wanted to put plywood on the inside, I would do so. If an inspector sees it, and cites you for it, then add the firecode sheetrock. Even so, adding a layer of plywood adds another layer of protection between properties.


Is a 6 foot 5 inch ceiling height ok for a basement bathroom?

The Code ( ICC R305.1 ) states that habitable rooms shall be 7’ high and bathrooms shall be a minimum of 6’-8”.

However, there are 5 Exceptions:

Exceptions:

For rooms with sloped ceilings, the required floor area of the room shall have a ceiling height of not less than 5 feet (1524 mm) and not less than 50 percent of the required floor area shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet (2134 mm).
Not more than 75 percent of the floor area of a bathroom or toilet room is permitted to have a sloped ceiling less than 7 feet (2134 mm) in height, provided an area of 21 inches by 24 inches (534 mm by 610 mm) in front of toilets and lavatories has a minimum of 6 feet, 4 inches (1931 mm) in height, measured from the finished floor. An area of 24 inches by 30 inches (610 mm by 762 mm) in front of and inside a tub or shower shall have a minimum of 6 feet, 4 inches (1931 mm) in height, measured from the standing surface of the fixture.
Beams, girders, ducts or other obstructions in basements containing habitable space shall be permitted to project to within 6 feet 4 inches (1931 mm) of the finished floor.
Beams and girders spaced not less than 4 feet (1219 mm) on center may project not more than 6 inches (152 mm) below the required ceiling height.
Conversion of existing nonhabitable spaces, such as a basement or attic, to habitable space, shall provide a minimum 6 feet, 8 inches (2032 mm) ceiling height for flat ceilings or the portion required under Exception 1 of this section.


It sounds like you got a real winner! I would never call him back ever!
The gas smell can be caused from several things, one common one in appliances in a garage is spiders getting in the vents where the air is mixed not enough air mixture causes incomplete burning and in some cases blocks the gas from getting to the burner.
Another problem is lint getting sucked into the mixing area of the burner and the same issues with spiders. After the gas valve the gas flow is quite small and open to the air or no pressure, the gas blowing by the vents draw air in and to the burner assembly as it exits the burner it is ignited by the pilot or has that is already lit. So I would look for blockages that is allowing gas to exit before it should, other things that could cause this a dirty burner assembly, or crack in the pipe after the gas valve or burner assembly.
I would want to identify the leak or reason there is unburned gas before something gets worse and causes a flash explosion.


Is a pulse width modulating thermostat compatible with a W2 auxillary heating (Nest compatibility question)

It looks like this type of heat is called "modulating heat" or a "modulating furnace".  I can't find any information saying that Nest supports that.

The labels on the thermostat and furnace are meant to be a convenience for the installer, and you really have to refer to the equipment documentation to see what it does. The common labels of R, G, Y, W, C are fairly standard, but once you go beyond that, there are conventions, but you have to research to know the exact use of R, W2, B, etc.

That's a long way of saying that just because the furnace happens to have a W2 label and the Nest also has a W2 label doesn't mean very much.  You have to dig into the documentation (as you have done).


Why did I feel an electric current when touching my light switch?

I have had this happen when touching two items that were both grounded, but not bonded properly.  I used to get it when touching any cable tv coax cables in the house.  The cable company hadn't installed a proper ground to the water pipes.  If I touched the cable and anything connected to the electrical ground I would get a tingling feeling.  Sometimes a painful one.

This happens because ground isn't an absolute voltage.  Ground at my electrical panel and ground on the pole the cable company used differ by enough to be felt.  This can be dangerous if there is a big enough difference.

Check that all cables for TV and phone and such are properly grounded.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinderblock - easy way to describe this one. They're just concrete blocks that stack together (much like legos). They're held together with mortar like bricks. They're very common for foundation work in the US.


As Ed Beal mentioned in a comment, something doesn't sound right here. I have a gas range as well, and it's getting over 90* F here lately. I don't have a steamy kitchen. I'd have an appliance tech look at the pilot to see whether it's far too large.


Before you attempt to repair it, make sure that the cause of the ice dam has been fixed. You may need to insulate the ceiling, and/or add a styrofoam vent baffle to the inside of the roof to prevent that area from getting too warm. Ice and water shield installed on the roof probably would have also prevented this from happening.

The repair will depend on how long the wall was wet and the extent of the damage. From what I am seeing, you should be able to fix this damage without needing to pull the whole wall apart.

Let the wall completely dry out and then check for signs of mold growth. A dehumidifier is not going to dry out the wall for you. You will also need fans aimed at the wall to circulate the air. Industrial blowers will do the best job, but a household box fan on high will also do.

Mold may be on the surface of the plaster, and it could also be under your trim. Use white vinegar to clean off the areas affected by mold and then use a mold killing primer such as Killz on all of the damaged areas.

Once the wall has been primed, then you can repair the plaster. You will need to get a bag of plaster of paris and a 5 gallon bucket of drywall joint compound. Mix the plaster with water per the instructions and mix in joint compound in a 50/50 ratio. Trowel on the mixture and blend the repair into the existing wall. The advantage of mixing the two is that you can use thicker coats of plaster without having it crack. It will also dry much faster and shrink less. The joint compound will make the repaired area harder and will bond better with the wall. Over time plaster dries out and becomes brittle. The gypsum in the joint compound will help prevent the plaster from deteriorating. In the old days, they would mix in chopped up animal hair (usually horse hair) to strengthen it instead.

You may need to apply more than one coat. You should also sand lightly between coats and feather the repair into the wall as best as you can. Any imperfections will be easily seen once the wall has been painted.

Once you are satisfied with the repair, then you can prime the wall. You can use any kind of primer that is compatible with the color coat. I prefer using primer that is rated for interior and exterior use since it is less likely to peel when you put the final coat on.

Repaint the wall and trim. If you can, repaint the entire wall at once so there isn't any differences in the sheen. It may look different if you only paint the damaged part.

Once the wall is painted, you shouldn't be able to tell that there was ever any damage there.


My mini fridge had a frosty back wall, so I turned it off for 24 hours. There was water on the floor through the back of the fridge, why it happened?

Well you kind of have the idea but not quite. The evaporator is the cooling side of the loop - this is where the frost forms. Depending on the size, it may or may not have a defrost cycle.

My mini-fridge in my shop has a defrost and the water drains into a pan on top of the compressor, the heat from the compressor accelerates the evaporation (some fridges only have a large drip pan). My guess is you have a fridge where the "ice box" is the actual evaporator - this is quite common in small units. When the moisture drains out, there is no pan or drip trays to catch the water, in many cases because these need to be manually defrosted, so all the moisture ends up on the floor.

In the case where there is a pan or tray, it may have been too small to catch all the water and you already guessed that with the fridge off there is no heat from the compressor to aid the evaporation of the water.

The parts of a fridge are the compressor, the condensing coil (many times this is outside the case but in some it can be enclosed) and after the condenser coil there is a metering device sometimes as simple as a small orifice or tube, but on larger high-end fridges it can be a thermally controlled valve. Then the evaporator and back to the compressor to complete the loop.

To answer the last question: will the excess water cause a safety problem with the electrical? My answer is it won't be a problem as even very inexpensive units have the power enclosed and I have never seen more than a slip hazard or damage to the flooring from this moisture.


What could be a reason for RCCB triggering?

An RCD (in any form) is always looking at the current going out vs the current coming back, which SHOULD be zero difference, so if they are different by the amount of your RCD (usually 10 to 30mA in your part of the world), the device trips. It might be that your type of meter is one that measures by looking at the potential difference by putting on a small load, so the act of trying to read voltages was a condition that the RCD interpreted as a short.


Would hot air above a fireplace distort the view of a television picture?

This page indicates that there should be nothing flammable above a wood stove to a distance of 1.5m (59"). A LCD TV probably won't catch on fire, but it could melt or have electronics break.

In short: bad idea.


Assuming this happened five minutes ago: Fish out anything you can as soon as possible. Use an old coat hanger, your fingers, whatever you have to hand that's long enough. Flush the rest with loads of water as soon as possible. As long as you can get it to move along the pipe to the drainage stack, it should be flushed out and not block anything.

If it's already cured, you can either try and break it with something or replace the pipe. Anything you can get in there to break up the grout risks damaging the pipe, so you'd need to be careful. And without seeing photos or knowing what tools you have available, it's very hard to give any further advice on breaking it up.


Furnace: are flames in between the tubes bad?

It is probably normal operation.

There is a flash tube for lighting all the burners after the ignitor lights the first one.  A small amount of flame out of that tube during furnace operation is normal.  If excessive flame escapes from the burner tubes, a device called a "roll out sensor" will shut the furnace down.


Can I reduce or eliminate water hammer without plumbing?

Pretty much, no.  To reduce the noise you need to secure the pipes properly within the walls, and add pressure-relief tubes to the pipes that hold air in them beyond and above each fixture.

You cannot affect the pressure within the closed system of the plumbing by changing something on the outside of the system...  so at a minimum you have to at least open the walls - something the landlord will frown on...


At what temperature does a WiFi thermostat stop sending a signal to the router?

You're looking for a specification called the operating temperature range of the thermostat or router or both. This is the temperature range within which the manufacturer states that the device will function correctly.

For consumer electronics like these, it's typically from 0°C (32°F) up to about 60°C (140°F) to 70°C (158°F). So if you turn the heat to off, the ambient temperature in the house will drop below that range, and the thermostat will stop working properly.

There should be a specifications page in the manuals for the thermostat and router that will tell you their minimum operating temperatures. Keep your house above the upper of those temperatures and you should be OK.


Removing the surface layer from ceramic tile

My mom used to do ceramics the accents are small bits of pigment in the glaze these are baked and become part of the surface, removing the accents would ruin the seal of the glaze. Replacing the tile would be a better way to go than trying to etch just the accents as this will also discolor the green part of the glaze.


Brand new AC unit makes whooshing sound and air "chokes"

I would verify the screw that connects the blower to the blower motor is tight, I have seen where a loose fan (squirrel cage) slipping has caused this exact issue. I don’t have time to look it up right now but there is usually a maintenance over ride some times the plastic cutout that looks like a horizontal I on the right lower side. This may allow you to view the problem and I am not sure but may allow for the filter to be removed and will still turn the blower on.


Why do LED retrofit instructions say to leave the ballast in the fixture?

First, that fixture looks permanently hardwired.  If so, you'll want to add a ballast disconnect. Code requires it, unless you argue that the fixture is now ballastless. But it's so darn convenient that I add them immediately upon starting work, and then, turn the power back on!

Cutting the wires off at the ballast is someting I only do to ballasts which are dead. It's already been wirenutted from the previous ballast swap, I would just do it at the wire nuts.

Generally, ballast instructions are generic and simplified, try to come up with a universal instruction and you can see where it's hard.   Potential reasons for the "leave the ballast" instruction include:

different ballasts require disposal in different ways, and it's complicated and they don't want to open that can of worms
in particular, they don't want to scare the hell out of people with talk of PCBs
it may greatly reduce the weight of the fixture, with unknown consequences
it will shift the fixture's balance point, relevant to chain-hung fixtures
removing the ballast may leave holes on the fixture uncovered, which Code would disallow
in some bad installations, the screws holding the ballast also help hold the fixture to the ceiling.


How should I replace 14/2 in wall with new 14/3?

No. The original wiring was stapled many times to framing, and likely passes through one or more small holes in wall plates. You simply cannot pull it like a fish tape.

The best bet is usually to carefully remove the switch box by cutting the nails with a rotary tool, poke your new cable down from the attic, and install a new "old work" switch box.


How to fix a joist that has been cut out

Solution depends on what the other joists look like.  The joist before the one that has almost nothing left at the bottom could be ok.
The typical thing to do here would be to cut the joist that has nothing left, double block between the two side joists and sister those two sides joists so they are doubles and pickup the load from the cut joist.  The cut joist area then just becomes an opening in the floor structure.
You could certainly build a wall with a header below to support the joist past the cut area.  Height of header depends on span and if you are putting a door below it you are limited with door heights.
An structural engineer could probably prescribe something simpler.  I had a somewhat similar situation with 18' overspan joists and they were able to prescribe 3/4" ply on each side 18" past each edge of the cut.  My joist had a notch at the top but was mid span so the loading and stresses are different than your case.
I wonder if you could do something similar but girdle the joist and have the new joist scabs extend down an additional 3" and block the inside of the girdle.  You'd loose 3" of ceiling height for the girdle area but if you are putting up upper cabinets in this area you could probably just custom make the cabinets or have some kind of crown trim detail to hide the lowered portion or if this is a limited room just have the ceiling in this one room slightly lower.
Any solution outside of a support wall or doubling would require a structural engineer.


What's the best way to hang frames and shelves on plaster walls?

I live in an old house too.   I'll assume yours, like mine, has some history to it and has been renovated and altered over the decades.  You can't do DIY in an old house the way you can in a new one.  You can't follow simple repeatable rules. You have to learn how different walls are built and how different fittings behave.  Your handyman's secret is experience and adaptability, and you need to develop that yourself.
In my house, some walls are plaster over lath, some are plaster over backing board, drywall over plaster, two layers of drywall over plaster, two layers of drywall directly on studs .... you get the picture?   Yours may not have as much variation as mine but you'll have to learn what different materials feel like, learn what works in different kinds of walls, and you'll have to make mistakes and learn from them.
Let's assume most of your walls are plaster over wood lath.  I've found that usually by drilling appropriately I can hang most heavy things (not shelves) on that.   My "secret" ... Use longer screws than you would for drywall.  Drill a small hole and feel your way.  You can usually tell when you transition from plaster to lath.  Keep drilling to see if you've got a stud.  If yes, just use a 2.5" screw and you're good to go with anything.  If you don't hit a stud then drill a larger hole into the plaster but not through the lath, large enough for a plastic anchor.   Insert the anchor, which will stop at the lath, and cut off the excess.   Then use a 2" screw.   These are pretty strong and a couple of them will hold up almost any picture.
For shelving you have to find a stud.   Sometimes a magnetic stud finder will find the lath nails but not usually.  Sometimes it's just trial and error.  Either drill lots of tiny pilot holes til you find a stud or drill a 1/2" hole and insert an endoscope to find it.
There is another solution:  Don't hang shelves on your plaster walls.  Buy standing shelves.  Pretty much anything else can be hung safely by developing an understanding of how different screws and anchors behave in different materials.
One last bit of advice: Join the Facebook group "Historic Home Renovations" and share your questions and experience there.
Good luck!
EDIT: I should have added the possibility of a really good stud finder.  There are new ones, quite expensive, that pair with a phone app to show you much more than a traditional stud finder can.   I don't have one and haven't spoken to anyone who has used one successfully in an old house.  Everything I know about them is from their fancy youtube infomercials, and of course according to those they can find a postage stamp hidden behind a concrete block wall.  Or something like that.  Maybe worth a try ... and you still need to get to know your walls to use one of those successfully, in other words they are not magic, but they might help a little.


In general, if you are missing some parts of a faucet or valve, you will have to replace the whole thing. You should not expect the core from one faucet to fit the body of another. Each manufacturer, usually for each model, makes the body, core screw, compression nut, handle, etc. to fit together in a unique way.

The only dimensional standard is the soft washer and the seat that it presses against, and even these are made in several sizes and materials.

Sometimes you can get lucky and find in a hardware store a new faucet of the exact same make and model as the one you're trying to fix. Then you can take it apart and use some of the pieces for your repair, which saves the labor of replacing the entire thing. But you're not going to be able to buy parts for a faucet or valve, except for the rubber washer.


How to Make Freestanding Pegboard Walls?

The metal things in the walls are metal studs, used in place of wooden studs. In other words, these walls are built like any other interior wall, facing material over framing, with appropriate attention to possible fire hazards and so on.

Pegboard is perforated hard board, not hardwood.