You'd need to double-check, but does the 270mm regulation apply to existing houses as well? Otherwise, I've seen plenty of lofts cross battened with 150mm or 175mm deep timbers and boarded on top. Not sure where you want the air gap, condensation shouldn't be a problem here unless you plan on not heating the office...
An alternative is to go for a warm roof by putting the insulation in between the rafters instead (where you do need an air gap).


How do I troubleshoot and repair clanging pipes?

"clang" when ... the water shuts off ... is it a symptom of ... water hammer?

Yes.

...

...

Arrestor


It appears as though the portion that pulls out has sheared off from the inside. If you inherited this piece, I'm assuming you don't want to put much in it.

Clean it VERY well with some alcohol or similar (not acetone) and a brush. I'd try some J.B. Plastic Weld, let it setup and cure overnight and give it a shot. You've got a 50/50 chance it will either fail incredibly or someone will inherit it from you.

I've never had much luck with repairing things like this, but the J.B. Plastic Weld (and similar "plastic weld" products has fixed a veritable stable of Fisher Price toys, Big Wheels and similar.

Good luck!


Does a self-adhesive membrane roof need a fire-proof layer?

"Fireproof netting"???  I've never heard of such a thing. If it's netting, then there are "holes" in it AND THEN ITS NOT FIREPROOF. The netting might be fire retardant, but it's not a fireproof membrane. We worry about the exposed surface to make the roofing "fire retardant".

It might be an "isolation fabric". They are used between the roofing and the old roofing. (You want the new roof to move independent of the structure.)

The second roofer's "peel and stick" type roofing has problems too: 1) most are not UV protected (I'd be skeptical and demand to see the "Product Data Sheets".) They are made to be installed under another type of roofing, (I.e.: composition shingles, metal roofing, etc.) 2) When installed over an entire roof, it doesn't allow the roof to breathe. Usually, this type of roofing is used in valleys, at eaves for ice dams, around difficult areas like vents, etc. in low slope areas, etc. and then covered with another type roofing. 3) When fully adhered, it will move with the roof structure, which can put stress on the membrane and it could tear (fail) over time. The second roofers statement about its fire suppressant because it doesn't use nails is wacky.

In low-slope applications, I like thermoplastic (TPO) or PVC roofing...never use EPDM roofing...it can come apart over time. The first roof sounds like one of these (TPO or PVC) with a "mechanically fastened" installation, (nailed down).

If fireproofing is important, I'd use metal roofing with a low-slope application, otherwise I'd use TPO or PVC roofing with mechanical fasteners and "heat-welded" to the fasteners for low-slope applications.

(Btw, if you live in a high wind area, make sure you get the proper number of fasteners per square foot. Check with the manufacturer.)


How do I fix a sprinkler valve that leaks instead of popping up the sprinkler heads?

First we need a Manufacturer and possibly if you can find it, a model number. Irrigation control valves like this have two parts, a diaphragm operated water control valve and a vacuum breaker. Typical Rainbird system shown here.

The control valve uses an electrically controlled needle valve that operates the main diaphram valve through servo action (small force controls large force). Cross section to give an idea how this works. When the needle is seated, full water pressure operates on the upper side of the diaphragm, shutting water flow off. When the needle opens, the pinhole in the diaphragm is smaller than the needle opening, pressure dumps and the diaphragm opens.

Where your leak is occurring is in the vacuum breaker (right hand side below). This device operates to prevent water siphoning back into the water line through the control valve if water pressure drops. It is essentially a check valve with one side open to the atmosphere that closes under pressure and if the parts are damaged through wear, foreign object stuck in the seat, corroded in place, etc. becomes as you've found, a large volume leak under pressure.

This is where having all that manufacturing information is important as most of these can be repaired if you can find the repair kits. Otherwise, it's complete replacement time.

Exploded diagram of the above example Rainbird unit less the solenoid control.

Champion Classic Brass 3/4" Automatic Actuator and Anti-Siphon with Union

Manufacturer is Arrowhead-Champion http://www.championirrigation.com

I've used Irrigation Direct for other product, their replacement parts page. There are other businesses listed. If you have a large irrigation supply anywhere near, they probably carry the product. Arrowhead is a well known manufacturer of brass plumbing fittings.

The Champion product has been around in manual systems since the 1930's. To get the Vacuum Breaker loose, you might need gentle heat on the body. Keep it on the breaker side.

Breakdown of the original Manual Valve and Anti-Siphon with Union

And the bits in the Anti-Siphon Valve that are giving you grief


Yes you can. First make sure you have a rough surface. Then apply several coats of stain killer. Make sure it's alcohol base. This means it has shellac in it which is an excellent sealer. I prefer zinzer it's not as sloppy as kilz. Then get some easysand drywall patch, mix it up and apply with wide knife. This is one way. I'm sure you will hear more.


How can I level a transition in a floor before gluing a vinyl tile?

The simple answer is you don't transition here.  Any type of transition you try to put on that edge will be just as awkward or even more awkward than the already bad transition.

I would try to get some thin plywood and lay it over existing vinyl and try to match the height that way.  You will need a metal L to protect the edge of the vinyl next to the tile.

(Actually I would never do this.  I would lay tile next to existing tile or take tile out and vinyl the whole floor.  I think you are causing yourself more work by trying to do the job quicker.)


Plumbing question adding a filter pipe diameter concerns

The systems I've worked on have the filter between the tanks and the house supply line. You don't want to restrict the flow from the pump. what size is your house supply line?


Notice how the two terminals are brass?  Those are travelers.  You'll save yourself a world of confusion if you get a 5-color pack of electrical tape and mark the traveler wires yellow.  Every 3-way switch circuit is different.  Colors are totally inconsistent in 3-way switches, the next one you see might have red and white travelers.

It's not unusual to have 2 wires on the common terminal; that is simply the supply being split off to also supply something else.  That is more clear if it uses a pigtail, and feel free to convert it to a pigtail if you prefer.

You have to be especially careful with smart-switch 3-ways.  Every 3-way switch configuration is different. There are many cases where the smart switch is not going to work in that box or even that application. Move slowly, document carefully, and if you get stuck on one, ask us a question and post pictures of what's going on inside both switch boxes.


Should I mount brackets to the wall or the shelves first?

You may not have a choice if the shelf locks in by sliding forward. If that's the case, you mount to the shelf first and then hang it on the wall. Otherwise, the wall blocks you from installing the shelf. And even if it's not necessary, you may want to do it that way to get the shelf tight to the wall. Mount the brackets 1/8" or less from the back of the shelf, so the shelf touches the wall just before they do. Then, after hanging, when you tighten the screws on the wall, the shelf will get pulled tight without any gaps.


Best way to cool down the house in the summer

The answer is yes if your area cools down significantly at night. The other factor to study is if your inside temperature stays lower than the outside temp, when all closed up, during the hottest part of the day.

If cooler then closing up is the right strategy. If the inside approaches the outside temp then opening up and using fans to create air movement may be a reasonable strategy to pursue.

Of course these comments apply when you have no auxiliary cooling going on during the hot days.


Can I use the exposed water line on a Kenmore refrigerator to bypass the internal filter for incoming water supply?

This won't work because the valve at the bottom is what controls the water delivery. If you plumb in after that valve then the water will run continuously. You have to plumb in before the valve.


Plastic or metal pipes? what do you recommend?

TLDR: copper pipe with compression fittings.

In the UK, your choices, in approximate order of decreasing compactness and decreasing skill required, include

Copper pipe with end-soldered connections.
Copper pipe with solder-ring connectors.
Copper pipe with compression fittings.
Copper pipe with push-fit connections.
Plastic pipe with push-fit speedfit connectors.
Plastic pipe with push-fit Hep2o connectors
Plastic pipe with push-fit Polyplumb connectors
Plastic pipe with push-fit Floplast connectors
Plastic pipe with other push-fit connectors.

However, if you already have copper pipe, I would use compression fittings and copper pipe (if you have space) to maintain earth continuity. You probably need to add equipotential bonding where the pipes join the taps.

Plastic pipe is easier but, in my experience, the couplings are more bulky than even compression fittings and this can make a significant difference to the end result (e.g. being able to fit joints within existing space).

Plastic pipe connectors usually have to match to plastic pipe type. Some plastic push-fit connectors (but not all) can be used to join copper pipe to plastic.

Plastic pipes can be bent, but I've had nearby push-fit joints leak, so it may be best not to rely on the flexibility too much.

The disadvantage of soldering is that you have to make sure the pipework is empty and dry, even a small amount of water several inches away can make it impossible to raise the temperature of the joint high enough for solder to flow.

So really it depends on how handy you are with a blowtorch.


Ceiling Light with no switch to turn off

You removed the switch for your light fixture when you removed the pull chain. If you want a switch, you'll need to run a line from the fixture to a location on the wall where you can install a junction box and switch. This may require opening up your walls and/or ceiling depending on the access you have.


How to remove water based wood stain splashed onto painted surface

The primary difficulty you are facing is that virtually all paint is somewhat porous, water based paints generally more so than alkyd (so-called oil) based paints. It is complicated by the fact that the stain that has been added is also water based. While there are plasiticizers in water based paints used to make them more stain resistant, these only partially prevent absorption of staining materials.

Soap and water is a good first start for most stains (after gentle blotting). The next step is usually a stronger detergent based cleanser, such as Fantastic. A test should be made on an inconspicuous area before trying any cleanser. If the test does not indicate serious compromise of the paint, proceed to attack the stain.

First put a bit of the cleanser on a paper towel or clean rag, and try rubbing the spot. If that does not work (or work well enough), try spraying directly on the stain and rubbing with the paper towel.  If some stain is being removed, keep turning the towel or rag to a clean area as you work. If this works, wipe the area with plain water when you are done.

If this does not work, you could try solvents, such as alcohol, mineral spirits, or acetone, but any of them are almost certain to compromise the finish. They also give off serious fumes and need to be handled with care.

Even the gentler detergent based cleansers may leave the paint with a different sheen from the rest of the wall. If the area is small and near trim, it may be worth dabbing a bit of matching paint over the stain. Depending on how long ago the wall was painted, it may blend and match well. If not, you may be facing a repaint of the section.


Can a 4 prong welder run off a 3 prong outlet?

According to the millermatic 350 this welder is a 240v hot,hot ground connection the red connection is not used. On page 23 of the manual I found online.
This makes sense since it is also a 3 phase 480 machine the voltage to ground would be 277 so any control voltage is made from the source voltage.
L1,L2 black , white and ground green.


Why does one of my bathroom sinks drain slowly when the water is running, but drains quickly when filled and drained?

Warning, wild speculation ahead, but I have had this problem.

I've always thought that the aerated water causes some kind of "bubble dam" that plays with the way the water is able to go through the relatively thin space that the popup creates.  Blocking the bubbles with my hand and letting pure water start going down the drain seems to stop the bubble phenomenon and water will drain faster.

I think removing the bubbles and starting a good flow lets a siphon effect take over and suck the rest of the water down quickly.  The bubbly water never lets a large enough volume of water to drain to start a good siphon.

I have had luck with raising the pop-up drain to allow a bigger gap for water to drain.  Of course, I have also completely removed the pop-up as well because I never need to stop up the drain.


Will salty water from ice melt harm a wooden porch?

Yes, water damages wood and salty water damages it faster.  If at all possible do not use ice-melting salts on wood decks.  If you must, wash it off and let the deck try as soon as possible afterward.  Keep your coatings refreshed.


What kind of wire this is in my ceilling

Prior to RG6 being adopted RG 58/59 were common for data (cable tv) most places were updated with RG6 because it is better with modern cable bandwidths. 3 white round cables that were replaced by 3 black round cables, not power most probably RG6 the cable has it’s type and MFG stamped on the side at regular intervals as others have mentioned.


How to do a flush transition from concrete wall to metal stud wall?

In order to join a plastered masonry wall to a new plastered stud wall, you must do surface prep and moisture barrier, offset the wire lath from the studs using some combination of sheathing and or furring, plaster, then do a skim coat to blend seamlessly.

You’ll account for any “missing” thickness such as the missing inch in your 6” new / 8” old joint problem by using furring or shims etc to separate the base of the coating away from the wall structure.

It is possible to flare the surface out so that the old and new wall sections can be different thickness along the bulk of their spans.

Easiest way that comes to mind is to draw the curve and cut out curved plywood strips to stand out from the new wall structure to act as anchors for the wire lath.
Or if you’re not trying to have a notable curved lip at all, calculate to under 1/32 per inch like it’s shelf deflection allowances, and shim out as you move down the wall.
Attach anchors/shims to new wall
Staple a little tighter wire lath to the plywood anchors if it tilts a lot
Mix and go to town plastering.

BUT BEFORE YOU START...

Are you sure it’s plaster and not stucco?

To be successful, you must be aware of what material you are seeking to blend into. Repair or add to like with like to minimize cracking and separation over time.

There are 3 major categories of spread surface covering.

Gypsum Plaster
Lime plaster
Portland cement stucco

To identify what you have:

Check photos of each type online, compare, then watch & gather the wasteage as the metal stud wall is mounted.
You can field test for gypsum by taking the powder from the drill aside and check texture as you add drops of water.

Gypsum really moves if you give it some motivation.
Lime pretty much won’t move except in a sandy way after it’s cured.
Portland cement-based (“traditional”) stucco is sandier. Think peanut buttery grout.

If this is an outdoor wall anywhere that gets regular moisture you should hope that it’s not finished in gypsum plaster. Otherwise be extra diligent about maintaining a water barrier of paint or the like.

Lime plaster is hydrophobic and although it’s not perfect, it will do well as a moisture barrier. If you told me I’m going to be plastering on a long weekend, I would wish I was working in lime plaster. There is a bit of a learning curve to delivering an even texture though, and the drying process is... for some it’s burdensome and for others it’s a labor of love.

If you’ve used grout or mortar before, Portland cement will likely feel the most familiar.

Whatever coating you’re using, mix according to manufacturer’s directions.

You’ll want to mix the biggest batches that you can apply before they cure.
Try not to waste too much, but err on the side of bigger batches because especially when you don’t have much mixing practice you really want to avoid high texture variability.
You’ll probably want a small rotary hand mixer.

Surface Prep:

Clean off any dirt and debris on the existing concrete and plaster wall. Hopefully you don’t see exposed concrete, especially at the corners. If there are big chunks missing you’ll need to fill them carefully.
Wash the original wall. You’ll want to add some moisture during application later, but right now the goal is removing or identifying anything loose etc that could interfere with adhesion.
Watch how the original wall surface takes water, especially for a few inches on either side of the seam.
If an area isn’t getting wet like its neighbors, then your covering won’t stick there without help. If you need the new coating to stick here, either clean the surface, or give your skim coat a framework to stick to.
Prep the whole original wall because you are going to do an end to end skim coat at the end.

Add furring strips to the studs so you can hang metal lath at thickness.

To calculate furring thickness:

Measure from each side of the studs at intervals matching your furring strip length to the existing finish to get the offset on that side. Yes, the studs should be aligned with the original wall edge but surprises happen.
Feel free to select furring strip length based on whatever is convenient to acquire, cut, and maneuver into place. This is less risky than drywall since in your application, you’ll be building out a paste over the whole surface.
Subtract completed sheathing thickness and your chosen material’s ideal application thickness from the total offset to get furring strip thickness.

For example, if this is an outdoor wall in the US, there’s a good chance the old work is probably Portland cement stucco, not plaster.

If you’re adding stucco over the new section, then the per-side application thickness for this calculation is 5/8 inch or 7/8 inch, but not quite 1 inch.

Apply paper or wire over the sheathing

If you’re doing the finish work yourself, do yourself a favor bear in mind which materials you’ll be working with in what climate. Proper match to the application is essential.

Apply your coating according to best practices for the materials, location relative to water sources / concentrators, and climate.

For example, Hunker provides an excellent training on stucco application.

No matter the coating, do a top to bottom skim coat at the end to bring up to final thickness and smooth out the joints.

Going into detail on best practices on all combinations of conditions is out of scope for this answer, but it’s fascinating to see how much of weatherproofing is surface-agnostic. It’s just another layer, you’ll do great.


Why are my gutters allowing water to drip off the fascia and soffit?

Looks like you've got water standing in the gutter. It also looks like you've got a mitered corner on the gutter itself.
Standing water:
Either the gutter is not sloped correctly, or the downspout is clogged.

To check slope, pull off some of those plastic clips and put a long level on the edge of the gutter. If the gutter is dead level, that's your problem - it should slope about 1/4" per foot. If the bubble is off center, that's good. Center the bubble and measure the gap between the level and the top of the gutter - it should be about 1/4" of height for each foot of run.

If it's just debris in the gutter preventing water from flowing to the downspout, or debris in the downspout itself, that's all pretty easy to scoop out. Not fun, necessarily, but an easy fix.

Corner miter:
That miter may not be well sealed. Or, the seal may have failed. Because there's water standing in the gutter, it's slowly dripping through and down the soffit.
You'll have to get the water out of the gutter, then dig into that corner to see what's going on there. You want a good seal between the two pieces of gutter along each wall to ensure the water moves along the gutter to the downspout instead of leaking out at the seam. You may need to clean out the seal the best you can, then squeeze some sealant into the gap.
What's my line?
Additionally, this line at the back of the gutter trough itself just caught my attention. Most gettering I've seen does not have any sort of a bend, break, or other anomaly along the back wall. It might be worth taking a look at this to see what's going on here. If it's a seam of any sort, make sure it's good and tight and sealed.


Can I wire a 3 phase plasma cutter to single phase power?

The 3-phase plasma cutter is not going to work on a single phase type connection. You will need to provision for a 3-phase power source - whether that be via a special power entry drop to your shop from the power company or via a power converter that you install (such as a rotary type that you mentioned).

As far as testing the waters with the 3-phase plasma cutter before you go about buying things you should look into finding a shop that repairs and services equipment such as this. They will most likely already have a commercial 3-phase service and for a fee you can ask them to do a service inspection of the unit you bought. That fee could very well be worth while because you may additionally learn some things about this cutter and become aware if some other parts need replacement or you need some additional accessories.


How hard should water based polyurethane get?

Assuming 70°F, 7 days to cure. You stated your temp has been 40°-60° and did not state humidity. There is nothing wrong with the product, you have used it outside of parameters recommended by the manufacturer (see text below). Take it into a temperature and humidity controlled space and hopefully it will cure hard.

  Dry times are based on 70°F and 50% relative humidity.
  Dry times may be affected by temperature, humidity and
  ventilation. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. Triple
  Thick Polyurethane will be dry to touch in approximately 2
  hours and can be recoated in 2 hours. Allow 48 hours cure
  before light use of the project. Allow 7 days for full cure.


It looks like a fixed pin hinge with security caps on both ends. If so unscrewing it from the jamb or hinge is the only way to take the door  down.

Circled in red  are two pins or screws look at both sides see if there is a way to unscrew them.  If the set pin/screw does not extend through the entire hinge or have a place for using a tool to unscrew it is a security hinge that has a non removable pin.
Your hinge is found here on the manufacturer’s website. It is a very good ball bearing hinge that should not need any tweaking. Bending it would surely compromise the smooth operation.  The wall the door is mounted in may be a bit out of plumb causing the door to swing open. I would investigate installing a door closer on it as @RedGrittyBrick suggests.

Edit: I asked about this hinge on Amazon UK it is s fixed pin hinge not designed to be separated.


Preferred direction for laying laminate flooring thorughtout a house?

You can run it either direction.  I ran mine parallel to the longest wall.  It makes for less cuts.  Make sure your subfloor is level.  My houses was not and gaps appeared over time.  I just recently fixed them from this post [How to close gaps between laminate floorboards .


Does beam orientation matter for structural engineering calculation values from wood supplier tables?

There are 3 factors to consider in the design of a beam:

Section modulus, which is a factor of the "area" FROM  the neutral axis (usually the centre of the beam).  That is why a beam set in the vertical direction can support more than a beam set in the horizontal direction...because more of the area is further from the neutral axis.
The extreme fibre in bending, which is the strength of the material of the beam (pine, fir, steel, etc.) from the neutral axis.
Vertical shear, which is the area of the beam at the bearing point. This is important because if the area is too small, the beam will "crush" (compress) due to the load.

So, one of the above factors will "govern" in the design of each beam. When manufacturers of beams put "allowable" sizes of their beams in a table, they've calculated these factors into their tables. By the way, usually, 2. (Extreme Fiber in Bending) governs extra long spans and 3. (Vertical Shear) governs for short spans with extra heavy loads and 1. (Section Modulus) governs for normal residential construction with moderate spans and moderate loads.


Why not use standard 1/2" drywall after you shim out the studs. Use 1/4" stock or rip 1 1/2" strips of 1/4" plywood. Tack these to each stud. Then screw the 1/2" drywall through the shims and into the studs. I would probably use 1 5/8" drywall screws for a better grip.

By the way, if this is in or near a furnace room, be sure to use fire rated drywall.


Painting all but the bottom side first is a valid approach.

However, I usually hang whatever I'm painting in such a way that I can paint all surfaces at the same time, especially if I need a continuous finish.


Our vinyl floor install will need to be redone -- will new vinyl need to be used, or can the existing vinyl be reused?

The bubble doesn't necessarily mean it wasn't glued, but rather that air became trapped under the vinyl while it was being put down - which means that the people putting it down didn't do it properly.

When installing vinyl, it should be unrolled slowly, with even pressure being applied along the length of the floor as it's being unrolled (slow, tedious work) and then when it's down a floor roller should be used over the entire floor, working from the center to the edges, to push air out.

Big bubbles means this wasn't done - it was put down in a hurry.  If the adhesive has set up already, it is almost impossible that they'll be able to pull it up again w/o destroying the vinyl.

The underlayment won't need removal, but the existing vinyl will need to be removed and the underlayment cleaned and scraped smooth before the replacement is applied.


As has already been stated High Intensity Discharge lamps only use a specific bulb and as the name implies, is energized under high voltage. Unless a new type of bulb is labeled for this type of lamp it would be wise to use an exact replacement bulb. I've noticed that LED lights have become increasingly more powerful (brighter) and inexpensive the past few years. If energy conservation (or frugality) is a priority it might be worth investigating if the present high energy using lamps should be replaced with the cooler emitting LED's. Here is a link you may find helpful, to one such lamp: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJPMD3K?keywords=security%20LED&qid=1443644066&ref_=sr_1_14&sr=8-14


Outlet for built-in Microwave has 120v/20A (USA) breaker... what amperage receptacle is required?

A duplex 15 amp receptacle is legal on a 20 amp circuit. As long as there are 2 or more 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp branch circuit it is code compliant with the NEC see table 210.21.B.3


Smoke detectors are on dedicated circuit, how can I add a light to that circuit?

Adding anything is against code in most jurisdictions.  They want wired smoke detectors to be certain of working.

Edit: 3PhaseEel points out that having smoke detectors on an unswitched branch circuit is allowed.  See his comment below.

Good wired detectors still have a battery and they chirp annoyingly when they are without power.  And will do so for weeks.


The wall isn't enough, you need a conduit there
What you're missing is that you can't have loose wires outside of a recognized Chapter 3 wiring method (i.e. cable, conduit, or some other sort of raceway), and "wires loose in a wall" isn't a wiring method that the NEC provides for. So, you need to run a short length of conduit between the LB and the panel; most often, though, you can do this with a PVC box adapter fitting instead of a short length of conduit, though, as the LB will be set up to be directly opposite a knockout on the back of the panel if you've laid out your run properly.


Main panel mounted directly to cinderblock wall

You may be able to pull the panel off the wall and attach the plywood then screw into the plywood. I usually seal the plywood so it will last longer and look nicer. All my phone and data patch blocks are hung with plywood. I do this in unfinished basements as this extends the life of the panel if the wall is damp.


Another thing to try would be a slightly more aggressive cleaner than vinnegar - I've had good luck soaking the shower head in CLR, making sure to shake it up every few hours.


There are hole patch kits that can be purchased at most hardware stores. If that's not an option (maybe the hole is too big?) you can take a small square of drywall that's bigger than the hole and hold it up over the hole, mark around the piece with a pencil and then cut the hole out to the outside of the line. Then take two slats of 1x3 and use screws to attach them through the wall on either side of the hole creating a backing for the patch. Once that's done apply the patch to the backers and proceed to mud and tape the seams. Here's a diagram:

If you need help with the mudding/taping process there are other q/a's on this site that cover it better than I can so I won't go into it.


How can I remove odor of spilled sewage under the sink?

At pet stores (and many other stores) they sell "enzymatic" cleaners that are made to destroy urine odor.  In my experience, they also work on other stubborn smells that can't be cleaned by ordinary cleaners since they work by actually breaking down the odor causing contaminates.

If that doesn't work, there's also a type of primer that you can purchase at a paint or home improvement store that will help seal in odors.  A shellac-based primer like Zinsser BIN will work well.  I've used it on paneling that reeked of smoke and on sub-floors where an animal died, and it worked well.  It dries very fast, so it's easy to use, but hard to clean up.


Is this a load-bearing wall between my house's entrance and dining room?

I'd say it's almost certainly load bearing for one simple reason.

You've got what appears to be a beam running over the opening from the dining room to the hallway, and you don't have one going into the kitchen.

The fact that your dining/hall opening isn't floor to ceiling suggests strongly that the beam is running across that opening, which means it's running the depth of the house.


Plastic screw from inside outlet box to stud

Man, you guys just looooove your plastic boxes.  You'll do anything to keep em.
I'm a metal conduit guy and it would never occur to me to use a plastic box.
Using a screw to attach a box to a joist isn't even a problem in my world.  No inspector would flag a metal box for that.
The screw holes you use, they're either pre-made or you drill them (set that drill on FAST and push hard)... and that's fine, you're allowed to do that. Metal is inherently strong enough.
Plastic you have to attach it at its designed anchor points or it'll crack.
If you're going through drywall with a metal box, you buy the (typically a 4x4) box and an appropriate 1-gang or 2-gang mud ring.  The 4x4 boxes have more room than a 1-gang box.  The drywall hole only needs to be as big as the mud ring - NOT 4x4.
If you need great gobs of room, you use a 4-11/16" deep (2" or 3-1/4" deep) box again with a 1-gang or 2-gang mud ring.  Again hole is only 1 gang in size but you have lots of cubic inches behind it.


Gas Oven Keeps Tripping GFCI (Moisture?)

It's your fan/motor...

Motors are common causes of GFCI trips because of insulation breakdown.

In your case it could be simply that.  However, given that the fan's job is moving air which is particulate-laden, it is rather likely that the particulates in question (or merely dust in your house made sticky by food grease) have accumulated on the motor.  The cool motor draws up hot, humid air... and condensation occurs.  This wets the particulates.  This makes them a good enough conductor to induce a ground fault and trip the GFCI.

You could clean the fan motor area and hope for the best.  The problem may be deep inside the motor in an area impracticable to clean.


How can I get rid of the knocking sound behind my wall when I turn any tap in the house on or off?

the pipes are loose and you are hearing water hammer securing the pipes can fix the problem. another fix is to install a absorber link to one at home depot so you can see what I was referring to.


Can I safely reduce the height of this tub stopper?

It's a tower drain, aka standing waste, and you can't make it shorter without limiting the water level in the tub, since it's also the overflow for the tub. Looks like there's already a pretty good description of them at

How does an external tower style bathtub drain work?


I believe that you could use that pump as you describe pumping through a dedicated return line. For reference, this is what I did for my house. I have 3 bathrooms, so I ran a 1/2" dedicated return line from each bathroom to a point near the hot water tank. At that point, I tied all the lines together and ran that line thru the smallest bronze pump I could buy that was for domestic water. On the discharge of the pump I installed a 1/4" orfice to limit the pumps flow and from there to the bottom of the tank. I use a timer to only run the pump at specific times. This set up has worked for 20+ years. One last thing, When running the dedicated line, make sure that you install an isolation valve and a check valve to stop any reverse flow.


Why has my tub spout diverter not dropping back down after use? (brand new installation)

When the faucets are turned off when you are finished showering the diverter will usually not drop by itself.  The diverter is held up by the column of water in the shower pipe. Once the column of water is reduced due to dripping of the diverter, the diverter stem will fall and reopen the spout to its normal position. How long that takes is dependent on how long it takes for the column of water in the shower pipe to fall. I usually just push down on the diverter actuator pin to release the shower pipe water.


Does it matter if my underground conduit overlaps or crosses over existing conduits?

Crossing existing utilities is no problem; it happens all the time. Just be careful when digging. There is probably a prescribed margin to either side of the marks within which digging must be done with "hand tools only." In some areas the margin is 24 inches to either side (48 inches plus the width of the marks themselves); in other areas it is 18 inches to either side; yet others may choose some other distance.
Even when hand digging a shovel can easily damage the insulation or even cut through direct-buried cable (telephone and CATV are often direct-bury; power might or might not be). Plastic pipes, such as gas pipe or electrical conduit, are much more resilient to impact from a hand-operated shovel.
Soils vary quite a lot. If yours is sandy then hand-digging will be easy. You could even vacuum excavate with the help of a wet-dry "shop vac." Vacuum excavation is considered "hand tools." If your soil is harder, like clay, it's going to be tough going. In this case I'd suggest digging the trench full-depth on both sides of the marks first. You could then make a choice: chip away at the remaining wall of hard soil, or simply bore through it at the height where the new conduit should go. This can be done with running water from a garden hose if the soil isn't too hard, or with a boost from a pressure washer. "Hydro excavation" as this is called is also counted as  "hand tools" and is used extensively by professional excavators. Its likelihood of damaging existing buried lines is very low.
There are tricks one can use to improve the DIY hydro excavation.

Use a pressure washer turbo nozzle. It shoots a 0 degree stream but orbits in a circle, carving a cone into the soil. It works much better than a plain 0 degree or fan-type nozzle.
Push a 2"-2.5" sleeve (pipe) into the bore as you go. It "saves your progress" each time you push it in deeper, defending against cave-in. It also eliminates concern of excess erosion of the bore because water and spoils exit through the sleeve. The sleeve must be large enough that spoils, including small stones, can flow past the boring device (pressure washer wand or hose/pipe) to exit the sleeve. Vacuuming with a wet/dry vac can help.
Bore at an uphill angle so that gravity will carry water and spoils back to you.
A pressure washer wand can easily be extended. Big box stores have begun carrying adapters from pressure washer quick-connect to regular pipe thread; a pair of these and one or more arbitrary-length 1/2" threaded pipes joined with couplers works well. Ready-made extension parts are sold by outfitters for the utility hydro-excavation industry.

I've used these techniques to bore about 25 feet under my own driveway. The bore began in clay, but my upward angle was too steep and I ran into the gravel beneath the concrete and then into the concrete itself. With some creativity and persistence I got it to follow the bottom side of the concrete and exit at the far side.
Now I own some real boring equipment and do it on the side semi-professionally. :-)


How to properly attach copper pipe to steel framing?

You use plastic bushings. I couldn't find a photo with pipe, but here's one with electrical:

This gives you the benefit of separation of materials and also a 'slip joint' to handle the expansion/contraction of pipes so they're not making lots of noises rubbing against framing members.

To attach the pipe to the stud, you can use pipe clamps like this:


Install wire rope to several steel tubes?

The chain link fence folks have all kinds of fence post caps that could be used to keep the rain out. Also there are nylon caps for EMT.  You could convert the tubing to iron pipe threads and install threaded PVC caps.  As to the holes and lacing the cable, before installing poles, I would put them on the drill press and pre-drill.


HVAC not quite reaching the loft/attic floor of my apartment in an old home

You're asking a lot of questions here, but I think the core ones are why is the current system unable to keep the loft cool and what can we do about it?

Why is the current system unable to keep the loft cool?

The loft is getting hotter faster than your central air is cooling it. Because the loft is at the top of the house, heat rises to it from your lower floors. It also has a lot of exterior wall and roof surface, so it's being heated up faster than other areas. Cool air from the loft is able to rapidly flow down your open stairwell. Your thermostat and most of your air vents are downstairs, so your system runs until that area is cool but leaves your loft too warm.

For all these reasons, it's best to design a cooling system with the returns positioned at the top of the conditioned space. A well-designed system for your home would have a return near the ceiling of the loft. The return and any supply vents would need to be properly sized to the required cooling load. This could be done as its own zone, with a dedicated thermostat in the loft, or by properly balancing a single system such that cool air is distributed in a way that matches where your home is getting hotter, maintaining an even temperature.

What can we do about it?

You have a number of options, from full system replacement to minor improvements around your portable AC.

You could redesign the central air system with proper returns and supplies to the loft. Depending on how close your current system is to the ideal, you could spend between $2000 and $20,000 on this. On the lower end we'd be talking about adjusting some dampers and adding a return; on the higher end we're getting into significant rework of ducting, possibly adding zoning controls, and possibly replacing the air handler and/or condenser with something more powerful.
Tweaks to the current system. The biggest opportunity is probably around adding a return in the loft, but you may be able to do targeted changes to various ducts to improve balance.
If you have dampers you may be able to rebalance enough; you can also do some basic balancing by closing various vents throughout the home. Try to direct as much air upstairs; if you get to the point that the upstairs is colder than downstairs, you've won! Just undo gradually until balanced.
Add aftermarket booster fans to direct more air upstairs. These can help a little, but reviews are mixed. The kind that are installed into your ducts are probably better than the kind that sit in your vent registers, but are of course harder to install.
Add a ductless mini-split air conditioning system for the loft. This would be a new system with its own thermostat just for the loft. This is a fairly quick install, as only power, refrigerant, and condensate lines would need to reach the loft (no ducts). You would need to add an outdoor condenser unit. Although the indoor unit does take some space, these units are very quiet and give you a lot of control - you can turn it on only when you are using the loft, and some units even offer heating.
Upgrade your portable AC unit. A good portable AC should do fine in your room. The better units have a two-part vent line that you'd run outside through a window, which provides intake and exhaust for outside air to cool the condenser. This air doesn't get blown into your house, nor does cool home air get pushed outside -- the AC takes air from your room, cools it, then blows it around. Some units only have a single duct and are constantly blowing some room air outside for exhaust - these are less efficient. (Note that the two ducts are sometimes bundled as one hose - but you want a system where there are two separate streams.)
Reduce heat gain upstairs. Insulation and air sealing can make a big difference, but so can simple things like curtains and window films (if you're getting a lot of sun).

Based on what you've said, I'd probably start with trying to close off the bathroom vent from which your loft vent runs. Then try closing some other supply vents to direct more air upstairs. Getting a HVAC expert to take a first-hand look should also be helpful, and I'd suggest getting a few opinions/quotes because there are likely many ways to address this.

Good luck!


How to repair a microwave door with a broken spot weld

Don't do it.

Microwaves, while safe, emit a significant radiation that is controlled, in part, by a carefully designed door interlock system. If it is compromised, there is a risk of radiation leakage.

You don't fix microwave doors, you send it back for them to fix or you replace the entire unit.

Period.

SUPPLEMENT

The World Health Organization (WHO) has this to say about microwave oven safety.

  Microwave safety: The design of microwave ovens ensures that the microwaves are contained within the oven and can only be present when the oven is switched on and the door is shut. Leakage around and through the glass door is limited by design to a level well below that recommended by international standards. However, microwave leakage could still occur around damaged, dirty or modified microwave ovens. It is therefore important that the oven is maintained in good condition. Users should check that the door closes properly and that the safety interlock devices, fitted to the door to prevent microwaves from being generated while it is open, work correctly. The door seals should be kept clean and there should be no visible signs of damage to the seals or the outer casing of the oven. If any faults are found or parts of the oven are damaged, it should not be used until it has been repaired by an appropriately qualified service engineer [emphasis added].

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says this

  Checking For Leakage: There is little cause for concern about excess microwaves leaking from ovens unless the door hinges, latch, or seals are damaged. If you suspect a problem, contact the oven manufacturer, a microwave oven service organization, your state health department, or the closest FDA office [emphasis added].

The problem described is not just tightening a screw or putting a seal back in its track. The door is misaligned and poses a risk. Trying to realign and weld parts of the safety system seems very ill-advised.


Is a replacement fluorescent-tube light not working because it draws too much current?

Is the incandescent drawing too much current?

No.

If it was, the circuit breaker would trip. This would only happen in the case of a serious fault in the fixture (or incorrect wiring). You would probably know if a circuit breaker had tripped.

The largest two-tube fixture would be 2 x 6-foot tubes. That would be rated about 140W. On a 110 volt AC supply that fixture draws a current of about 1.3 Amps. Most circuits will be rated for a maximum current many times higher than that.


paint a wall where the surface is uneven

You can skimcoat with drywall compound. The suitability of that may depend on your skills with a trowel.

You can add a layer of 1/4" drywall on top, or you can remove the wall surface (do any maintenance that makes sense while it's open) and replace with new drywall.


If the circuit breaker trips every time you reset it, then first: stop resetting it! There's almost certainly some sort of overload or short on the circuit, and the breaker is saving your trailer from a fire. If you try hard enough you may convince the breaker to stay on; your reward would be some very cool fireworks and a perhaps-denied insurance claim.

Your next job is to figure out what's tripping the breaker. Unplug or turn off everything on the circuit and try again (once). If the breaker still trips, then you probably have some sort of fault in your wiring.


Is a gas fireplace enough to heat a small cottage?

I'd talk to the Fireplace dealer/installer to confirm, but yes, that should work provided:

you use a blower (sounds like you have)
your house isn't chopped up into too many rooms
given the high ceilings, I'd strongly suggest installing a ceiling fan as well to help. If you don't, you may end up with one really hot room, and a bunch of only 'warm' rooms.


How to wire a C-wire from a humidifier to a Carrier furnace?

You may be able to attach multiple wires to the C terminal, or you could use a pigtail as described here.

Connecting the wire to the Y terminal, will not work.


Does anyone find any problems with this method of running speaker wire under the carpet?

Even with just 18awg speaker wire (no conduit) run underneath the thickest carpet, it will be noticeable when you step on almost right away, and within a few weeks you'll clearly see the outline of exactly where the cord runs. It's much better to run the wires through walls, ceiling, or under the floor, or an easy way, is behind the baseboard (you need to take the baseboard off anyways to put down carpet).

Also I don't really get why you'd replace the wire once a year. Do it right the first time, and put wire in that will last for a few years. However, if it's due to some audiophile sound quality thing where you theorize that you can hear a 0.000000000000001% drop in quality because the wire is "old", I'm going to drive down there and smack you (see my recent response to a speaker wire question here).


How to check how much water my dishwasher is using?

This is NOT intended use

It's way too much water for any intended use.

To give you an idea, the last time I saw a $700 bill, it was from a toilet at a rarely-used facility, which had a stuck float. The valve was wide open 24x7 for 2 months.  That's the kind of flow we're talking about.

For a dishwasher to have that much flow, it would have to be waterfalling 24x7, running its little pump to death.   So that's not likely, due to the dishwasher's need to pump its wastewater up.

It is absolutely impossible for a dishwasher to overuse that much water during the hour or so a day it is in-use.

Outside of toilets, you'd know about any appliances leaking that much water, because their usage is obvious. You'd notice if a shower, tub or sink was running full-on.

The only things that remain are:

A pipe break somewhere unnoticed, like in lines under a slab, soaking into the dirt. Pay close attention to any blooms of vegetation, lush spots in the lawn, etc.
A tenant who has insanely or maliciously thrown water valves wide open, e.g. a vacating tenant on their way out the door.  Or a hardware failure in a vacant apartment.  So do a walkthrough on any vacant apartments.


Want to cover up nail points in attic ceiling

Leave a hardhat or bump helmet (lighter version of a hardhat) by the attic hatch. Put it on when you enter; take it off when you leave.


What open source home automation software exists? What are the differences between them?

So far all the arduino/home automations I have seen are custom built. We are planning on using Domotic Home in our hacker group.


Toilets not refilling after replacing main water line outside

The toilet fill valves are often sensitive valves with small water passages that can easily get clogged up with debris in the water line. It is a sure bet that this is what has happened in your case.

Some styles of fill valves are designed so that they can be opened up to allow removal of grit, sand or other debris. On  the other hand if your toilet fill valves are old, maybe even with plastic that has turned brittle from age and exposure to chlorine in the water, now may be the perfect time to replace them with newer style valves with the shut off float built right into the valve assembly. New float valves are available at very reasonable cost.

It is also a good time to possibly update the water supply connection pipe with a rugged braided steel jacketed flex fill line.


How do I identify the C terminal on my HVAC?

Wiring Diagrams
Locate the schematic
In most cases, a wiring diagram can be located inside the HVAC unit. Typically, it will be on the inside of the access cover.
Find the transformer on the schematic
Once you've located the diagram, you'll want to look for this symbol.

Or the actual text that says "Transformer", which may be labeling a crudely drawn transformer, or simply a rectangle.
Primary or secondary?
After finding the transformer in the diagram, you'll have to determine which wires are connected to the primary coil, and which are connected to the secondary coil.  Check the diagram for a key, which will give you a hint.  On some diagrams a thicker (bold) line denotes line voltage wiring, while a thinner line represents low voltage wiring. Others may list the voltage and frequency on each side of the transformer.
Trace the wires
Now that you know where the transformer is on the diagram, and which side is the secondary. The next step is to follow the lines, and see where they go.

In this example diagram, you can see that one leg of the secondary connects to the R terminal on the control board, and the other leg connects to the C terminal.  In this example there's actually a C terminal present, but that will not always be the case (especially in old models). However, even if there isn't a dedicated C terminal, that doesn't change what the C wire is.  Which is simply the other side of the secondary coil.
In Real Life
Now that you've located the transformer in the diagram, or maybe you don't have a diagram.  Either way, you'll have to locate the actual transformer inside the HVAC unit. You'll be looking for something that looks similar to this...

Honeywell 24V AT72D Transformer

An action shot of the actual transformer in my furnace
Primary or secondary?
Once again, you'll have to determine which is the primary wiring and which is the secondary.  If you had a wiring diagram with the wire colors labeled, this is simple.  If you don't, you'll have to figure it out.
Wire color
In the US, typically the ungrounded (hot) conductor will be black, and the grounded (neutral) conductor will be white.  It's common for this color code to follow through to the primary side of the transformer, so a set of black and white wires is likely the primary side.  The secondary could be any color, though commonly the R wire will be red.
Wire size
You may also be able to determine which is which, based on the size of the wires connected.  The primary wires will typically be either 12 AWG or 14 AWG, whereas the secondary may be smaller.
Measure.
If all else fails, pull out your voltage meter an measure.  The primary side will be line voltage, and the secondary will be low voltage (commonly around 24V).
Trace the wires
Now that you know which wires are connected to the secondary coil, simply follow them to their termination.  One of the wires will be connected to the R terminal, the other may or may not be connected to a terminal that is labeled.  But even if it's not labeled, it's still C.

Transformer connected to two wire, heat only thermostat.

Transformer connected to three wire, heat only, WiFi thermostat.
For more information on transformers and C wires, please see More than you've ever wanted to know about the C wire


How to prepare a rough concrete slab for pavers

My pa did a rather extensive paver back patio with curved steps, concentric pavers, a retaining wall and other challenges.  It looks beautiful.  Some of it is laid on existing concrete, some on packed gravel before the sand.  He used masonry mortar and concrete fill for the steps and edge pieces and it has definitely stood the test of time.  As mentioned in AlaskaMan's comment, the thickness of mortar allows you to lay the section in sand first and match the edge to the height of that.  After 25 years a small section of the lower patio has sunk about 3/4 inches because the gravel wasn't packed hard enough, but otherwise the whole thing is rock solid including parts without concrete base.  It will also deal with the unevenness of your pad, which to my eye does look like asphalt, as isherwood suggests.
One other note if you lay brick over solid pads, any drainage problems that exist with the pad will continue to exist under the sand.


Why is my electric wall oven suddenly causing strong hot chemical odor?

When a new smell emerges immediately after electrical work, and the smell has any chance of being electrical related,  that is an emergency.

Fire inside the walls of a building is the most insidious type of fire, because it can smolder for hours and become fully engaged before it is obvious the building is on fire.  A homeowner can't really fight a fire inside a wall (and sprinklers won't work on it)... but worse, it can spread to the whole house rather quickly, and that can catch you off guard.

It's possible they damaged a cable, or more likely, pulled a wire out of its terminations.  If your range wiring is 3-wire and they damaged neutral, that creates an electrocution risk to boot!

But most likely we are dealing with series arcing from a damaged wire or connection.  Find it, and kill it  with fire (figuratively)... Before it kills you with fire (literally)...


Input voltage drop to 190v after switching over load

Previous Setup

So what was happening here is once the change-over was not set to AC, the common neutral was not linking to the UPS output.

Had the wiring reconfigured in the following way. Things are back to normal.


Test Connection for vintage lighting fitting

As a temporary test setup it's fine. Assuming that you know what you are doing and you monitor the thing while it's in use.

However the switch at the wall will probably only switch the live wire while the neutral will remain connected. So it'll be safer to pull the plug out of the wall when you go to mess with the connections.


Moving Kitchen sink to opposite side of room

There isn't only one proper way. If it's convenient to do so, extend the vent straight upward. If there is attic and roof immediately above then you could make a new roof penetration for the vent and detail with a pipe jack flashing in the usual way. If there's another story of the building above, you could get into that ceiling/floor space and take the vent anywhere - continue upward, route to meet with the existing vent, etc.

If taking the vent up is problematic, route it downward instead. It could be arranged as for an island sink as explained at Family Handyman (they mention two methods: loop as per the image below, or use an air admittance valve).


How to map out downstream outlets for GFCI install

Usually it's physically obvious - depending on how exposed the wiring is (typically in the basement, if at all) it can be easier or more difficult to be sure, but it will almost always be the one closest to the breaker box. In some cases the wire routing won't be so straightforward, but usually it is.

I'm assuming you are capable of safely working with exposed wires, though I'd never suggest (and don't myself) doing anything more than check for voltage on them when exposed and live. Always turn off the breaker and check for voltage before actually manipulating wires.

So you pick the closest outlet on the circuit. You turn off the breaker and open the box. You disconnect one set of wires positioning them safely or temporarily taping them, and turn the circuit back on. if all other outlets are dead, you got the right outlet. If some other outlets are live, do the same thing at one of them. Ultimately you need to not merely find the outlet, but find which set of wires are the supply from the breaker (that will be connected to the "line" terminals on the GFCI) and which are the wires leading to the other outlets (that will be connected to the "load" terminals on the GFCI.)


3 minutes is really not that long the regulator had to fill the control after its valve and to the pilot if you had a leak 30' away it would have taken much longer, gas lines after the main gas regulator are only approx 3/4 of a psi, very small so it can take a little time to fill. The way gas lines are tested where I have installed them is by pressurizing the lines with the local shutoff at the stove, fireplace, furnace turned off and the line pressurized up to 30 psi, the inspector notes the pressure then inspects the work if the gauge drops you fail. We usually do this pressure test the day before inspection and make sure there is no drop overnight, not just the 15 -30 minutes the inspector is there.


Take apart the sink drain and take the parts to the hardware store for a new one.  This happens all the time and what is super annoying is the companies that make the stoppers are constantly changing the dimensions so it's not like you can just go buy the part that broke and replace it, you have to buy a complete new assembly.  They make more money that way.


How do I add a new exterior door to a room?

There are lots of concerns I can think of (this is a much bigger project than simply cutting a rectangle in the wall):

Exterior walls are load bearing, so you need to construct a header, king, and jack studs, to properly transfer the load over the door. During construction of this, it's a good idea to install temporary bracing.
Any utility lines in the wall will need to be moved (electrical, plumbing, hvac, etc).
The door needs to be installed so the exterior house wrap properly overlaps it so any water that gets behind the singles doesn't come into the door.
You need a threshold and possibly some flashing to keep any water or drafts from getting under the door.
You need to properly trim around the door, particularly outside, to keep it weather tight.
It's critical that the door is level and plumb so it doesn't open or close accidentally.


Dimmer switch shorted/fried during installation, is it still safe to use?

You killed it, man!

The solid-state switching devices in dimmers tend to fry when the dimmer's output is shorted.  Replace the dimmer, and this time, don't peel the insulating sticker off to avoid another short.  The breaker may have tripped eventually, or it may not have; the good news is that what you did is OK for now as the smell is simply lingering as odors are wont to do.


Can I install a photocell on a 3-way switched circuit?

Yes.

The photocell is placed in series with the feed from the panel ahead of the switches. The white is the neutral, the black is the hot feed, and the red is the switched hot. Of course, this makes the circuit inoperable during the light of day and there will be no manual override.

I would install an astronomical timer like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This also goes in series with the switches in the circuit but it has a manual override and does not need to be placed outdoors. The built-in computer calculates the times for dawn and dusk for your lattitude and longitude. Those default start and stop times can be adjusted to your preferences.

Good luck and stay safe!


This is an old style knob that screws onto it's turning bar, and then is locked into place.

Simply apply some extra force and turn the knob counter clockwise to loosen until it comes off.


How can I protect white risers (and oak treads) when using a hand truck on stairs?

If you are running a hand truck as part of a specific project, tape rosin paper to the stairs, and be careful when going up and down.  You can buy this at a hardware stores.

This also works for floors, though masonite boards underneath work well.


You just need to have the blinds cut to size, many home stores even big box can cut custom sizes. To avoid blind slap some blinds come with lower mounts that hold the bottom bar in place. This limits the blind to twisting them to horizontal for open or verticals for closed.
Some higher end blinds actually have rails that contain the blind and bottom and keep it in place. And can be raised and lowered


Adding a standard receptacle to a standard receptacle on a GFCI Circuit

Any sockets placed after a GFCI are protected by the GFCI. So a standard socket will suffice.

One of these toys (make sure it has the GFCI test function) is invaluable. Put it into a standard socket to test the wiring - and then press the button. If that socket is protected, the appropriate GFCI will click off.


Yep, spray foam is the ticket. The conventional stuff expands greatly, so go easy until you get a feel for final volume. You'll end up using way too much and having a mess otherwise. You can certainly do it in layers.
Be aware that open cans can't be stored for longer than a few hours or so. They cure up and quit working. Don't start a can unless you'll finish it, or at least most of it.
Also note that urethane does not come off skin, clothing, and other objects. Protect yourself and your property before starting to spray.


Will rubber pavers hold up against Wisconsin winters?

Why install rubber?  Unless you have a really modern house or a funky design they will look ugly.  Also I had these for a walk up to my apartment door a while back.  Cuts and scratches in them really stick out.  Landlord was upset after I shoveled them one winter and there were a lot of blade marks on them...


Ok, I'll admit, I'd just buy the sprinkler head. Let someone else do the work of engineering it so that it would work consistently on demand, because this has to work thousands of times, day after day. It must survive variable water pressure, be robust to working in a dirty environment, hard water, heat and cold. Any water system sometimes even has grains of sand, etc., that find their way into the lines. So you must cater to that possibility.

You need a filter. Materials that will be dimensionally stable under temperature variations, without corrosion. A robust design that will not leak, yet survive enough water pressure to spray the water where you need it.

If your goal is to do better than what you would find on the shelf, and this is truly for your own DIY use, then buy it off the shelf, and dissect that unit. Look carefully at it, and decide what makes it work or not work to your satisfaction. I'll admit that I don't think you can make it better for less money than the unit cost you off the shelf. The fact is, you have not said what it was that makes you think the off-the-shelf unit is unsatisfactory to YOU.

If your goal is to try to make something like this better for sale to others, then you are asking in the wrong place anyway. In that case, this question should then be shut down.


Circuit breakers generally do not leak at all.  But the kind of surge you put on it could have caused the internals to melt together before it blew.

It could also be a breaker further up the line that didn't take it well.

It could even be the main breaker.

But if you have live voltage on the neutral then it is also likely that somewhere along the neutral connection the surge caused it to become disconnected.  This could be at a wire nut.  Or, perhaps it got hot enough to melt the wire and caused it to separate.

In a case like this I would call a qualified electrician to sort things out.

You could literally be playing with fire.


How do I wire a two tube ballast to a single tube fixture?

EDIT I'm doing this from memory and don't have a ballast to look at so I checked a manufacturer bulletin.  I was wrong in the beginning so I edited it out.


framing nailers : low profile for blocking but also with interchangeable tips for framing and use with metal connectors

You will either find framing nailers or palm nailers, but not some combination , from the major brands at least. A good ol' hammer will do both but not offer the productivity or efficiency you seek.


-Is fan fold insulation an acceptable underlayment for hardwood?

As a complete underlayment for snap-lock flooring, yes but I'd be more comfortable using rolls similar to what the manufacturers specify.
Hardwood flooring installed traditionally with nails is to be installed directly on the subfloor. (Rosin paper is optional)

-But it is being used as a leveler from one floor level to another.

Then no, don't count on foam to make a good shim. Use appropriately thick plywood to shim any low areas. If 1/8" sheets would be to thick, use a planer to bevel the offending area of the floor, bringing it down to an acceptable fudge (the foam is for fudging any discrepancies; not a blatant mismatch of floor levels).


What is the correct way to install an air admittance valve on a 1 1/2" line?

Do I need to use a wye or can I use a tee?

A tee would be the correct option as AAVs are typically required to be mounted in a vertical orientation (with an allowable variance of a few degrees from plumb). You should purchase your AAV prior to configuring your waste piping and consult the AAV manufacturer's instructions. There are also requirements for the required height of the AAV above the horizontal piping (typical minimum is 4").

...using a 1 1/2" trap reducing into a smaller drain line...

is usually not a problem
You should consult with your AHJ on the use of an AAV as not all jurisdictions allow it.


Acceptable material to cap a brass/copper fitting

You could cut off the threaded adapter so you have plain copper pipe, then push on a Shark-Bite cap (they're about $6-8 at most home centers or hardware stores).

Otherwise, a stainless steel cap could be used if you're having a hard time sourcing an affordable brass threaded cap.


What can I do to prevent injuries from the corners of a wooden deck?

Go to a Marina and get some dock corner bumpers.    It's probably the least ugly solution.


Does facing fiberglass batts matter when installing from attic?

Face down, if you are in a mostly-heating climate. Vapor barrier goes to the warm side.


You can.  But your total electrical may now be too much.  It depends on your service capacity.


Can I put two 240V 10 Amp outlets on a 240V 20 Amp circuit?

Yes, you can put multiple properly rated receptacles on a circuit, regardless if it is 120V, 240V, or 120/240V.

I don't know why the word Canadian is in that description, but a duplex 6-15R is perfectly fine in the US.

A 20A circuit with multiple receptacle outlets can use either 15 or 20 amp receptacles.


Can this failing concrete patio be resurfaced and how?

No, you can't resurface the surface economically, as it needs skill, and is a labor intensive business. You can repave, or adding topping concrete though. The original cement facing has simply flaked out due to weathering.


Microwave door interlock switch keeps failing

So I noticed on part 125 the latchboard the latch "ramps" appeared to have worn down a bit which might cause the switches to not all flip in the appropriate sequence.  So I purchased and installed a replacement.

When I installed the new latchboard (and new relays) I made sure the latchboard was firmly screwed to the frame.  It's possible if the latchboard was loose (I need to unscrew and remove it to replace the relays) it might also cause problems.

I did this mid-November and thus far we've had no more blown fuses.  So fingers crossed!  I will edit this answer if the problem reappears.


What's the reason to sand after priming?

My father-in-law does cabinetry and explained it to me like this:

When you paint, the paint has to have something to hold on to. So, for instance, if you just slapped latex paint over old lacquer, it likely wouldn't hold very well, if at all. Primer helps by bonding to the old surface and being bondable to the paint.

Sanding cuts holes into the surface. It increases the primed area for the paint to hold on to and improves the bonding. I can speak from experience when I say it really does help.

100 grit is a bit much tho. I would suggest something more like 220 (most sanding blocks come around this grit). 100 would be if I were priming something else. For instance, I had an old bed frame that was just stained and lacquered. I sanded it with 150, primed, sanded 220 and then painted a final coat. It was very nice after I finished.


How can I mount an LCD TV onto the *wall* of an RV?

Best bet - call the dealer or find the manual. Chopping up something like this is a risky proposition without documentation (manuals) or a knowledgeable tech because while you may find something with a stud finder you have no way of cutting into it and making sure you are not cutting into wiring/plumbing/vents/etc. Unless you want to pull the entire wall or rent an ir/magnetic camrea, you cannot do this with absolute certainty.


The thermostat is going to expect to get power from Rh and C (normally), and also expect that Rh comes from the furnace power supply.  So, C should come from the furnace as well.  If this is for heat only, you could possibly connect the zone board transformer to Rc and C, and hook up the furnace to Rh and W and hope the thermostat gets power from Rc.

You have a few options, but you do not want to connect two transformers to Rh at the same time, and you also shouldn't connect Rh from one transformer and C from a second one.


Not quite sure what you mean by "showing their age": electric water heaters either leak or don't leak and work or don't work (mostly). Predicting time of failure is difficult. I have a rental house that has an 80 gallon electric water heater that's probably about 40 years old and working fine.  Others I've had to replace after 15 years.
But getting to your question, yes, consolidating 2 water heaters into one is a good idea and presumably you'd put the new one in the garage, freeing up closet space in the house.
Bear in mind that a heat-pump style water heater will COOL the space it's installed bc it pulls heat from the air.  In FL that may be a good thing! Not so much in the north.
You'll have to do some additional plumbing to install the re-circ pump, depending upon your exact plumbing layout.
You might also want to consider a timer on the re-circ pump.  I have re-circ and a timer in my house and set it so it doesn't run between 11:00 PM and 6:00 AM.


Wood paint still not hardened after three weeks

How old was the paint you used? Sometimes finishes do go bad over time...


Cable choice for kitchen. Maximum demand and diversity

A ring circuit makes a full loop from the distribution panel through all receptacles.  What you have is two leads from the panel through all outlets.  The total combined load the circuit could support is your 18.5A * 2 = 37A.  The idea is that if you are using a device that draws 3A on the left-hand side, the next device you use would balance the load by pulling 3A from the right-hand side of the circuit.

So I do think you have sized the right cable.

Let me try to argue for the radial circuit, if you have room to do it.

Ring circuits can work but your supposed to balance receptacles around the circuit; that is, not all your receptacles should be in the first few metres of the circuit with the remain run just needed to complete the ring. If the distribution of appliances is not balanced that could lead to the load not balanced and one section of the ring with a heavier load than it should be carrying, heating your mains until it started a fire.

A fault in the mains could lead to one of the leads from the panel supporting the entire load of the circuit, suddenly you have the 37A supported on a radial circuit, with a 30A breaker, and a cable rated for only 18.5A.  Again, overheating and fire.  A fault in a ring circuit may not be all that noticeable.

With a radial circuit, if there is a fault.  The most likely result is a blown breaker or the circuit stop working.

There are some arguments about electrical noise induced by full ring.  Not sure what the reality of this issue is.


Running circuit and service panel ground wire adjacent to one-another

It should not.  The magnetic fields of the hot and neutral conductors should cancel each other out, as explained in this answer.


Could precipitation from steam cause a light switch to short circuit?

You should move that switch to the outside of the bathroom or install a pull cord switch.  You are correct that water will get into both and I really would not be using that switch again.


How to connect a detached garage and house electrical panel at the meter?

In my State you cannot "double lug" inside the Meter. This is a requirement from the Utility Companies. Also you cannot connect two conductors to a lug intended for a single conductor, see NEC 408.41.

You can put in a junction box or wireway and tap the conductors in it. There are many insulated lugs that can be used. Just make sure you follow all the tap rules.

My preferred method is to install two enclosed breakers or a panel with two breakers. Which is allowed under the six disconnect rule and you can run a large conductor (200A) to the house and a smaller conductor to the garage (40A?) and not worry about tap rules etc. In your case, see NEC 230.40 Exception 3.


If the power is not working in a circuit , how do you determine which breaker controls it?

So you have a circuit that seems dead?

Confirm whether the lights work - this shows if its a power cut.
Check other sockets in the area using a known-good appliance or plug-in tester - this helps identify if its one bad socket or the whole circuit.
Locate the breaker box, open, and look for "work in progress" lockout tags.  Could be someone is working on your circuit and failed to communicate.
Sniff.  Really - the nose can be an excellent tool for identifying issues.  Is there a burny smell at any point.  Smell is also a non-contact check.
Look for breakers which are in the wrong position.  Do remember that for various reasons a breaker might be installed upside-down, so read the label and don't go by switch left/right position
Labels - Depending on the age of your install, it may be well labelled, or not.  Read them and look for a label that matches the room you were in.
Fuses - some areas of the world still have fuseable links rather than breakers or cutouts.  These tend to be inside ceramic or Bakelite housings which need to be pulled with some tug to be checked.   Pulling a fuse will stop a circuit, so warn other people, and once you identify a fuse, do label it clearly.

Points not covered, MWBC, US 220V lines, etc.

Lastly, don't ever feel bad about getting a professional to come and do electrical, (pr anything with which you feel uncomfortable)   I personally can't stand plumbing given the possible damage.  There's no shame in knowing your limits.


Can a Paver Sitting wall be put on a Paver Patio

Well chances are you can build a wall. If your patio was built right, it was placed on the proper amount of gravel. You would likely know if it was built on gravel if the patio is 5+ years old and it has not heaved much. As long as you are not building a wall higher than 4 or 5 layers, there should be plenty of strength. You should not need any other support for a shorter (5 layer) wall besides masonry construction adhesive between each layer.


Are 4 toggle bolts enough to hold up a 32in TV?

Use toggles, but also put at least one good fastener into the stud. (Even if you have to drill a new hole/holes in the mount.)


Chances are you did not drill a 1 1/2" hole for a molly (into a stud, such that you created a notch), so the rules about notching are not really applicable, but this would be the best kind of guide.

The depth for notching a stud depends on whether or not it is load bearing. For a load bearing stud you can notch up to 25% (7/8") depth; for a non-load bearing stud it is 40% (roughly 1 3/8") depth.

Now, considering how deeply you drilled and the size of the bit should help elucidate the answer. If you drill bit was less than 3/8", then you should be okay. If the drill bit was more like 3/4" and you drilled more than a couple inches deep, then it could be a problem.


This is almost certainly an attempt to shield the wall from woodstove heat. It is most definitely not to code. It could be made much safer by adding a metal shield 1-2" spaced from the wall anywhere the wall is less than 36" from the stove. If the outlet has to be exactly there, then good luck cutting thru what might be a stud. If it is not a stud, then mark your hole, cut it, then install a metal shield before lighting your stove again. The outlet itself can't stand the heat from a woodstove, either, so it must be behind the shield also. Spacing the shield farther from the wall is not a problem, tho it may not look like you want it to look. Sometimes moving the outlet a few inches one way or the other makes a big difference on how difficult the project is.


Closet dome light, is the tinfoil necessary?

That is a reflective sheet to help use more of your bulbs' light output. So if you want the same sort of brightness as you had, yep, you do need to replace it. But for a closet, I personally wouldn't bother.

The maximum wattage should be stamped somewhere on the light. If in doubt, use LEDs or similar bulbs that don't push out as much heat as the equivalent CFL or incandescent.


How do I add a receptacle from a switch located on the end run of an existing split receptacle?

That switch box contains 2 hots and no neutral. So without running any new wire, your only option would be to re-wire the outlet so that it is no longer switched and use the switch box as a junction box.

Here's a before and after diagram. Note that the "neutral" between the switch and the outlet is actually your white wire that has been relabeled hot.

Thinking about it again, you could make your NEW outlet switched in this configuration.


Is running over your extension cable with an electric lawn mower dangerous?

Minimal protection when using a corded electric lawnmower is to power it from a GFCI protected outlet/circuit. If your outdoor outlets do not have GFCI built in, or if you are running your extension from a regular indoor outlet, you can purchase standalone GFCI devices to go between the extension cord and the power source.

To answer your question directly - the lawnmower itself should be double-insulated, meaning the handle bar should be electrically insulated from the mower blade and the motor components. But if you run over the cord you still have the problem of severed cable ends supplying full mains voltage to whatever they touch, which is why using a GFCI is so important.


I recently took apart the bathroom in my basement. It was a steel tub and I had to bust up the tiles around it to take the screws out, then bust a hole in the other side of the wall to disconnect the plumbing. If you don't need to save it, take your anger out on it. Just be careful not to smash it near the plumbing and be careful to smash it only where it's not directly contacting a stud. If you hit it wrong, you could damage the other side of the wall. I would get everything around it down to bare studs before trying to remove it, just to be safe so you can see what you're doing.

Also, some bath tubs have their base set in thinset. If that's the case, you'll probably need to cut a section of floor board out and replace it.


What is the correct placement of a 2nd story through-wall bathroom vent

I would be using position 3 as position 5 is close to the window being that high up it will not be a problem for the condenser and compressor unit for your AC / heat pump I would agree the other 3 positions 2 at the vent would allow the moisture to be sucked into the attic space and the one over the window is two close as #5 is to 2 windows so I would say #3 is the best option.


Where to start looking for problems with my fujitsu split system inverter?

It doesn't sound like anything a do-it-yourselfer could attempt. I would call another HVAC company for a second opinion.

Look for a certified Fujitsu HVAC technician.

Good luck!


Exhaust fan leaking from elbow joint connected to the ceiling

Leaking air, or leaking water?

If leaking air, either replace it if it's degraded, or try duct joint sealant (which stands a somewhat better chance of lasting than duct tape.)

"Leaking" water - a bathroom exhaust vent needs to be heavily insulated all along its length, and should preferably run straight up, then turn and slope gently to the outside, so that water which condenses out of the air can run outside, rather than collecting in the vent and leaking out. Correcting one that's been "leaking" a while may require replacing any corroded sections of vent, improving the routing to more closely match the ideal mentioned above, and wrapping it in insulation. If the joints have been made "the wrong way" (male end inward) you may have to completely re-fit the vent pipe.


Should I Let my PT Fence Dry Before Installing

On the contrary, install when while wet to prevent splitting when you install fasteners, and allows fasteners to set easier. We actually soak pickets in a trashcan full of water before installation.

As far as the footing requirement, I'd tell Florida to suck it. Set your posts to adequate depth (general rule is depth = 1/3 length of height of post), leave the concrete at the home center. Hundreds of thousands of miles of unconcreted 50+ year old fencing across the US and other parts of the world are not wrong.


Is GFCI a good idea for a washer in a utility room, even if not required?

NEC article 210.8(A) lists areas requiring GFCI protection and not only are garages listed, but the last item on the list is "laundry areas", with no exceptions listed (nationally, your local codes may vary). So yes, you must use a GFCI either way. The 6' distance exception only pertains to sinks and bath tubs, not laundry areas, because it must be used in the laundry area even if the sink is more than 6' away.


What are some ways to fill a small gap between a wooden column and a concrete wall

How to correct for the gaps is a challenge if you just decide to "stick something in there" such as caulk or shims. I say that because anything you do along those lines is going to look crappy and kludged up.

The best solution would be to do a re-install by carefully measuring each individual piece and cutting it to the correct length. Done that way then a very small bead of exterior type caulk can be used to seal off the end of the beam to the wall if needed.

One possible solution that may work for the existing installation is to get some trim pieces that are cut and fitted around the ends of the beam and up to the wall to cover the gap. It would look something like this:

The trim pieces could then be sealed to the wall with caulk if so needed.


Did I do the right thing putting small stones under my deck?

Your downspout extension may be installed incorrectly. It appears that the black pipe coming out of the hill is not sloped properly and is causing water to pool inside of the pipe.

Since the pipe is not draining properly, organic debris such as leaves will clog the pipe and render it inoperable. Since water takes the path of least resistance, it will back up and then come out of the bottom of your downspout instead of out the extension.

The stones are not doing very much, and they are mostly decorative. Many people put stone, or some other kind of ground cover under their decks because it prevents weeds and grass from growing.

If you want to keep the stone there, I would recommend removing the plastic tarp from underneath it and replacing it with landscaping fabric. The fabric will allow water to drain through, and prevent weeds from growing. That way, you would be able to reduce the amount of maintenance in that area.


The air gap isn't primarily about heat. It's about electrical insulation. The fabric mesh that was used as insulation was not reliable, and could allow arcing and short circuits (especially if moisture comes into play). It's sort of the same principle you see in overhead power lines.

One could argue that there is a safety factor in the air gap with respect to heat, but the simple fact is that an electrical overload will heat the wires much faster than air could cool them anyway. This could allow the wires to burn or melt, or ignite combustible materials which they contact.


I would suggest using software to determine a reasonable design. Lowe's has an online deck designer. There are lots of others, too, like Design-a-Deck.

The most obvious omission from the design is that there are no beams. Where is the house?

Although railing posts can theoretically be slapped on anywhere, the layout of the posts will change its aesthetics a lot. Decks with the usual slapped on railing posts tends to have that chock-a-block treehouse look to them.

The structural design can vary a lot depending on how solid you want the deck to be, how much creakiness you can stand. A completely silent deck will be a LOT more work and money than a slightly creaky deck.

I notice that very high quality decks tend to have trusses or even cross bracing.


Swedish Crown Molding KS. Would this be useful? Are there better tools?

Coping is superior for inside corners because it's more tolerant of the trim shrinking or swelling with seasonal changes. Tools similar to that are more of a help on outside corners, which have to be mitered and are never square.

Digital protractors certainly exist, but obviously require you to divide the angle in half. The big draw of that gizmo is it does the division for you and can be put directly on the saw. The less you have to measure the better. (It also prevents you from being a bonehead and forgetting that the miter saw is marked off for roofing angles.)

It's also possible to transfer the miter angle directly with overlapping scrap blocks, eliminating the tool entirely. That rapidly gets to be less and less efficient the more outside corners you've got to deal with though. Shaving five minutes off a corner isn't a big deal when you remodel your kitchen, but it's definitely a big deal by the time you get to thirty corners.


"Two dimly lit" means the wire between the dim lights is connected to nothing.

If the center one is solid, that means hot-neutral are good and ground is missing.  If the side yellow is solid, that means neutral is broke.

Make very sure all your grounds go back to the main service panel. It is allowable to retrofit just a ground wire if one is missing.

Do not connect an isolated group of grounds together; I call that an "island of grounds", and all that does is spread around the hurt.  If one of them ground-faults, then instead of just that appliance chassis being electrified, the shock is spread around to every connected ground on the island, so you are getting nailed by touching cover plate screws, any piece of equipment, even conduit.


mantel mount with only 2 studs available

You will be fine as long as your screws are long enough to bite into the studs. 43lbs isn't that much.
For peace in mind, I would put a third screw in the center. I would push a "hollow wall anchor" into the drywall.  There are many styles for different weight ratings. Even the plastic ones that look very brittle are surprisingly strong.
I use them for my closet shelves and had no issues. The boxes on my top shelf is definitely over 50lbs.


Window casing upgrade to plastic/pvc/vinyl/aluminum

Adding plastic or aluminum on top of a wooden windowframe is likely to just be an ugly mess and may rot the wooden frame by trapping moisture.
Accept that you may need to paint them once in a while, they'll probably last longer just painted.


You have to chose between cosmetics and functionality. Either way you're still going to need some more siding.

Functionally, you need like 2 pieces worth and you could remove and then stagger the existing. Cosmetically, you'll need most of a box.

There's supposed to be a metal shim and caulking in between butt joints. Without entirely removing or prying away (can of worms) the siding at the corner, there's no way to waterproof it.

Super awesome exterior caulk is made by Vulkem. Which obviously works pretty well because it's known to the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.


Leaking drain joint in reconstructed pipes under new kitchen sink

As mentioned in the comments you first need to make sure that you have the proper washers assembled correctly on the tailpiece coming out of the disposal.
Then, remove the P trap and attach the white drain pipe in the picture to the tailpiece first before attaching the P trap. This will take any potential lateral pressure off the joint that's leaking giving you a better chance of a secure connection.


How can I avoid cold rooms due to combustion air intake?

Don't forget the combustion air is for all fuel burning appliances, not just the furnace. The water heater and possibly your clothes dryer also need combustion air. Yes, it is counter efficient, but not providing combustion air risks carbon monoxide poisoning. Not good!

One viable alternative would be to adequately heat the space, but that is certainly not efficient. It appears you could easily enclose the water heater and furnace in a utility closet. Be sure to determine the needed clearances and working access for each appliance and ensure they are maintained. AFAIK, the mechanical code often applicable in the US still requires two combustion air openings, one high and one low. You should verify your local requirements to ensure everything is correct. This is not the area to cut corners.

Even with the closet containing the cold air, if you have a gas clothes dryer, it still needs adequate combustion air. You would probably need some vents out of the closet to maintain this, but they can be relatively small, so the enclosure would still largely contain the cold air. Again, check your local requirements to determine the minimum vent area required for a dryer.

You would want to insulate the closet walls, and maybe even consider using an exterior door for access, as it will provide better insulation and weatherstripping to limit infiltration. OTOH, an undercut interior door might be adequate for dryer combustion air provision. You have a little research to do.


How to sister joists to level a floor when they've already been sistered to level the ceiling below?

There should be no reason you cannot sister the other side with new material. You could use 2X6s to get enough surface for good attachment, notching a little here and there to get around wires and such. If the original joists are clean enough, construction adhesive can be used to minimize the need for so many fasteners.
Yes you can rip material to add to the top of the joists too, it is a little more tricky to a degree. glue and screw it in place too. the cut may need to be curved a bit yo accomodate th bow of the original joists. A circular saw will have no problem doing a slight curve.


Unless you have a special type of modulating pump  you will need a pressure tank. In most cases the pressure tank is used to stop the pump from short cycling. If you forgo a pressure tank the pump turn on and off continuously greatly reducing the life expectancy of the pump. Draining it would be recommended if you're not using it and away. If the place is cold you can also use RV Plumbing antifreeze to ensure no residual water freezes. Flush it out when ready to use.

Side note,
After reading your other post.
Yes you can operate the pump from the breaker with just a pipe connected to nothing. Be careful to not dead head the pump, meaning don't run it with a valve closed. Without a pressure switch to turn it off at high pressure you can hurt the pump or burst a pipe (unlikely but possible)


Replace GFCI outlet or the brand new washing machine?

TL;DR Test with an extension cord to another GFCI
It is probably the machine. Unlike the situations with refrigerators, where water is not involved (except the ice maker) and where food spoilage is a big concern, washing machines have no real "excuse" not to be on GFCI. Plus GFCI is mandated for the the laundry room under current code, so the machines really should be designed to work properly on a GFCI.
But it is possible for a GFCI receptacle to go bad. The only practical way to prove it (short of replacing it) is to temporarily connect the washing machine with an extension cord to a bathroom or kitchen GFCI. If that has the same problem (trip every time the water pump turns on) then you have a bad washing machine - despite being brand new. If that works fine (and assuming the standard GFCI test on that receptacle works as expected), then you have a bad GFCI receptacle in the laundry room and replacing it should solve the problem.
How, you may ask, can a brand new machine have a ground fault? Mass produced electronics, appliances, cars and many other things are not 100% tested at the factory. Mistakes can happen - some that can easily cause a problem of this sort include:

Loose wire
Ground & neutral wires swapped
Insulation scraped off a wire during installation
Pinched wire
Bad connection to the pump, resulting in water leaking onto wires

Even a quick power-on self-test at the factory (which may or may not be routine, depending on the manufacturer) wouldn't reveal this fault because (a) they would not have a need to run the test on a GFCI-protected circuit (the factory floor is not an actual laundry room) and (b) they would not run the machine with water and (c) because they are not running the machine with water, they may not run an actual pump cycle


Does this wiring meet the NEC standards?

The answer is No. brhans, guess is correct. Many water heaters are wired this way because there are no neutral's in a standard 240V water heater. The white wire needs at least 6" of other than white or green identification some inspectors want everything in the box identified (taped or painted). Black is the most common color using tape but, it can be painted also I found red fingernail polish and this is totally legal also. Added for history: The oldest code book I have handy is NEC 2002. Section 200.6 & 200.7 both identify the grounding conductor as white / gray or white / gray stripe along entire length.
310.12.C states ungrounded conductors shall be finished to be clearly distinguishable from grounded and grounding conductors. So this has been code for quite some time.


Can I install luxury vinyl planks over ceramic tile?

The imperfections will be felt through the vinyl flooring if you do nothing.
Option 1:
You should remove any tiles whose edges are not flush; hammer them, chisel them, whatever.
Next you should pour self-leveling cement and sweep it into all of the grooves. Now you can install the vinyl.
Option 2:
Remove all of the tile until you get to the flat sub-floor and install the vinyl.
Removing the tile will be easy if you can get your hands on an SDS-max rotary hammer and use a good chisel.

Option 3:
Lay down 1/8th inch plywood and install the vinyl on top of it.