Convert section of radiator pipes from rigid pipes to flexible pipes

You don't want to decrease the size of those pipes. The correct solution is to re-route the pipes to be closer to the ceiling or inside the joist bay. You probably don't have the tools to do this yourself, and it's not really a DIY project anyway, unless you happen to be a pipe fitter (in which case you wouldn't be asking this question).


Water is dripping from the furnace exaust flue

If you installed a high efficiency sealed combustion chamber system the flue should have been changed to pvc. The old school ducting should not have passed inspection as it is not designed to be pressurized, there is not much pressure but it is there. Actually there should be both a supply line and the exhaust, normally connected to a coaxial roof jack so the system has fresh air and can exhaust without creating pressure differentials. In my state this install would be a code violation on several levels.


You could screw up through the lower 2x4 into the top 2x4, such that the screw heads would be on the bottom of the lower board and not seen from the top.

But I think there's a different question here: Why reinforce the existing board?

When working on problems like this, I first try to determine the root cause of the problem. Did that 2x4 warp because a 2x4 is not sufficient for that purpose? Or did it warp because the original board was poorly selected (it had a big knot, or gnarly grain).

If a 2x4 is indeed sufficient, then why not just replace the original board, instead of trying to "correct" it with a reinforcement?

If a 2x4 is not sufficient, then how about replacing with a correctly-sized piece of lumber instead of reinforcing the existing board?

In other words, reinforcing the existing board would be low on my list of choices.


There are lots of concrete cleaning products on the market, but I have had good luck with a 1 gallon solution of 1/4 bleach, 1 cup TSP and 3/4 water. Assuming you are talking about a driveway or garage floor, I would pressure wash the area first to get off the surface crud, then lay on some of the solution and let it set 5 mins or so.  Scrub it down with a stiff broom and power wash again.  Repeat this as necessary.
As a last resort, you can also use some muriatic acid, but test a small area first to be sure it doesn't effect the color too much.


On a side by side house that has two meters and two separate main panels. How many ground rods are required

If you don't have another grounding electrode, or just water mains, you need two rods, no matter how many meters there are
If you need ground rods (i.e. there's no other grounding electrode save for metal water service lines), then you only need two of them, no matter how many meters are present at the structure.  This is set out most clearly in NEC 250.58:

250.58 Common Grounding Electrode. Where an ac system is
connected to a grounding electrode in or at a building or structure, the same electrode shall be used to ground conductor
enclosures and equipment in or on that building or structure.
Where separate services, feeders, or branch circuits supply a
building and are required to be connected to a grounding electrode(s), the same grounding electrode(s) shall be used.
Two or more grounding electrodes that are bonded together
shall be considered as a single grounding electrode system in
this sense.


How can I get the sink trap to clear the drawer under my bathroom sink?

Put a notch in the back of your drawer. If you do it carefully with a hole saw or jigsaw it'll just clear the pipe and not look terrible. I like to make the notch and then run a router with a roundover bit around it.
The only other option is to raise the drain inlet in the wall.


How to connect cross bracing on rotated posts?

Option 2 is the best of your suggestions. It's cheap and quick, but will be stable. Use any available tool (or trial and error) to measure the angle, and use lumber of adequate size to avoid crushing it behind the bolts. Also, use longer bolts as needed to get enough penetration into the post.
An option that you didn't mention is to simply extend the braces to lap past the posts a couple inches, then run your bolts in at the actual point of contact. For purposes of a playhouse, and assuming adequate bolt size, this will work just fine. As long as there's little to no gap between the brace and the post, strength won't be compromised. Just be sure to not get too close to the edge of the post where you'll bulge the wood and weaken the joint. If you pilot properly you can be within an inch or so.


It’s up to you whether to get a combo meter-main-panel it get them as separates.  I prefer a separate meter from panel, so You can change the panel without having the PoCo come out and remove the service drop (and all the permits and inspections they will require for that).
A “farm panel” is a popular product that contains 8 breaker spaces and thru-lugs for carrying the full 200A onward to another panel.  That seems to meet your requirements.


Is there an approved way of fixing a cracked Fiberglass Tub/Shower?

I'm not familiar with the second approach but, as you say, it would address the root issue of the tray flexing when in use and should prevent the problem recurring. It also does seem to be rather radical.

The main drawback I can see is that you are causing more "damage" to the tray and therefore increasing the risk of the repair failing.

I'd ask the company if you can contact (or be contacted by) someone else who's had this done so you can ask them what they thought of the procedure. Ideally you'd be able to see the end result and check out for yourself before proceeding. If the firm is reputable they should have no problem with this. In fact refusing this would be a sign that the firm wasn't as reliable as they made out.


If it is not going to actively heated or cooled, is there any value in insulating a garage?

Oh, yes

It's a cornerstone of passive solar design.

We spent $2.4M on a large building we intend to never heat.  We insulated it to the nines.  Here's what that does.

Extremes of temperature are moderated by building's thermal mass*, which (with the insulation) helps it resist changes in temperature. This affects

Condensation, which is significantly reduced or eliminated.  This makes life much easier for the contents of the building.

If you don't have enough thermal mass*, you can add some by installing large barrels of water or antifreeze.

* ”thermal mass" is the terminology used in building design, but it's actually a misnomer. Mass/weight does not store heat.  Atoms do.  And atoms vary in mass dramatically from 1 for hydrogen to 207 for lead.  But an atom's heat storage ability is about the same, 20-30 j/mol/degK, most 24-26 j/mol/degK.  Different materials contain different mixes of atoms, so their heat capacity by mass is all over the map.  Water is ideal.


For future reference- there is no need to buy these kits.  They are essentially selling you a zip-top baggie for $10.00.

Simply wet the area, and scrape a very small sample into a zip-top bag of your own.  Then place this bag into another sealable bag (i.e.- double-bag the sample).  Then you can call one of several national testing labs, that will perform the test for around $10-15/sample, and email you the results. Google asbestos testing labs.  Some labs will only test for professionals, but many will take home-owner samples- you just have to call around a bit.


Why would the receptacles in the kitchen not have power after replacing one of them?

My guess is that when you pulled on the wires to get to them, the hot (red or black) wire feeding the circuit came loose.  They should be pig-tied inside the j-box.  Turn off the breaker for that circuit, pull apart the wires and make sure they're all secure.  FWIW, the hot goes to the small side of the outlet and the neutral to the wide side (green or bare goes to the ground prong if the outlet has a ground).


Can I replace a 15 ampere circuit breaker with a 20 ampere breaker?

No!

The only safe way to increase the circuit's capacity is by replacing the wire with one of adequate gauge.  For 20 amps, 12 AWG copper is adequate for up to about 100 feet.

If you simply replace the breaker, the wire can overheat and ignite the building from inside the walls.

To resolve the dimming issue, check that the outlet is in good condition and that the wires are securely fastened and not showing any signs of overheating:  blackening or loss of the copper shininess.  Also, check the end of the wire inside the service panel, both neutral and "hot" (black) wire.  If those are okay, set the appliances to a lower wattage setting or replace them with lower wattage models.


Where to get the driver for these unusual Balthaup screws?

You need a pin wrench (or pin spanner).

They come in fixed and adjustable types.

  Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


How should I get the service entrance cable to my new adjacent panel location?

I see where there is a cripple wall or something preventing you from fitting the new taller panel where the Zinsco had been.

Well first, I would go back to the drawing board and see if I could find a panel that fits inside the space the old Zinsco is coming out of.  However your first priority is a whole lot of spaces, so I would only bother looking at CH or QO, since they put 40 spaces where other panels only put 30.  In this day and age, you want 40.

If you just can't find a 40 that fits there at sane price, then continue with your original plan.

I presume you've considered laying a piece of plywood atop the pictured joists where the Zinsco was, with the new panel's entry hole lined up perfect with the conduit nipple, and extending the nipple as needed.  I can see where that would create an access problem for one conduit entry at the bottom.  Okay.

I consider the idea of using exposed flexible cable to be beneath discussion.  It is on the wrong side of the main breaker, if it got hit with something, nothing would stop the arc fire.  The bend would be freakish and very, very hard. You need XHHW single conductors just to make this DIY doable, and that needs conduit.

But that's no big.

Oh? She doesn't want EMT? Alrighty then... use RIGID.  Realistically, you will need a conduit body to turn that corner anyway. That leaves only about 3 inches to go with actual conduit.  Rigid is pricey stuff, but that doesn't matter for 3 inches.

When you tear out that ZINSCO panel, there will be a "pipe nut" that you unwind with a hammer and screwdriver.  Once the panel is out, underneath that is probably a Rigid pipe nipple (a nipple is a short pipe) with pipe threads.  Test fit the conduit body and see how much distance you need.  You either replace that nipple with a longer one, or add a coupler and a short nipple to reach the conduit body, depending on what is practicable.

With Rigid conduit, you go to a competent hardware store who cuts and threads pipe (and shoplifters), and buy the right length and have them thread it.

Now, the only other risk is that the conduit body is so wide that it forces the new panel to the left.  Could be.  If that knocks it off the joists, get a sheet of 3/4” plywood about 33.5" (or wide enough to span 3 joists and 2 spaces) x the height of the new panel + 6”.

Then, you will need to account for the thickness of the plywood in the above nipple.  So test fit everything first!

Then, you use appropriate sized XHHW wire.  If the price of copper wire gives you pause, use aluminum wire 2 sizes larger.  All 100A+ terminals are designed for aluminum wire and have aluminum lugs.

Remember, this is a whole domicile service, so you get the 83% favorable derate from NEC 310.15B7.


York Affinity 9.C gas furnace won't stay lit

The video indicates your furnace does the following:

Thermostat calls for heat (2 yellow lights blinking indicates this as per York fault codes)
Draft inducer starts (:00 in video)
After xx seconds of draft inducer running, the pressure switch is satisfied, the igniter starts to heat and gas valve opens (clicks at :35 in video)
The burner jets light ('whoosh' at :37 in video)
After a few seconds the igniter stops heating (click at :42)
Gas is cut off, killing flame (click at :46, no more 'whoosh')

In a normal scenario, the burner jets light sequentially, starting at the igniter side, progressing to the flame sensor on the opposite side. When the igniter stops heating, if the flame sensor senses flames, that means all jets lit and are still lit. If the flame sensor does not sense flames, it cuts the gas and starts over.
So we hear flames, why does the flame sensor does not sense them? Could be one of the following:
Flame sensor problems:

Flame sensor dirty, not heating enough to sense flames
Flame sensor dead, not signaling to control board
Flame sensor disconnected temporarily, like corroded contacts shorting and prevent any signal reaching control board

Gas jet only partially lighting:

One or more gas jets clogged in sequence preventing final jet with flame sensor from lighting (I have seen spiders build nests that clog jets)

You potentially can rule out partial lighting by running the furnace as in the video without the cover on and see if all of the heating tubes have flame and that the flame sensor is engulfed. If this is the case, then try cleaning your flame sensor, checking its electrical cable continuity or replacing it (likely <$20).


Paddle switch Pass and Seymor model RCD38

Nothing easier.  Attach 2 wires (+ground).

Attach the neutral wire to the silver screw on the receptacle side.
Attach the always-hot wire to one of the brass (traveler) screws on the 3-way switch side.
Don't break off the tab.

If you don't like which throw is "on", move the always-hot wire to the other traveler screw.


What type of screws and anchors are used for concrete?

Suitablilty of fasteners for supporting bracketry in concrete depends mostly on the weight.

light duty 0-10lbs: Screws with concrete threads, no anchors needed
(EG Tapcon and Spax)
medium duty: 10-50lbs:  anchors of plastic or lead,
heavy duty:  50+    : sleeve and wedge anchors

There are overlaps between light and medium duty , based on screw size and depth of penetration.  Follow package directions closely.  Drill the exact size hole and depth called for, the fastener retention depends on it!


What is the proper way to connect a 4" dryer exhaust to a 6" PVC wall exhaust?

Is this PVC run straight? Also, since you have posted some pictures, please post some for how the "anti bird" vent cover is mounted and secured.

Here's my thoughts:
While the previous occupant made this work, they were violating code, creating a situation that creates static electricity, and as you noted, water. You see water INSIDE the house where the vent was, but what about the wall outside where this PVC eventually meets the world? Water can be leaking in the interior walls and rotting away structure or making a nice home for carpenter ants. Not to mention the PVC (especially if there are any bends in it) is probably plugged or nearly plugged, and with an imperfect fit, harmful gasses can be present in the living space. This is not doom and gloom, but some thoughts for consideration towards "what to do".

On your question of cutting drywall; I would rather use a drywall saw and cut as needed to complete a proper run (with metal) then repair when the budget is right vs. ANY other option. Besides, you'll get a chance to see what other damage lurks in spaces unseen.

If the PVC run is straight, you can actually buy proper 4" run, and feed it through the existing PVC. While this can avoid cutting, clearly vacuum or clean out the run first, and still inspect BOTH ENDS for water damage.

If the PVC has an elbow in it, is this elbow accessible? You can always cut the PVC elbows out of the path and feed metal duct from both ends and join to an elbow when ready.

Lastly, since the run is 6" OD (outer diameter) or greater, you can probably cut sections out thoughtfully and the only immediate expense would be the ductwork *(this should be very cost effective) and perhaps a drywall saw *($7?).

Exercise some caution, secure breakers, use a studfinder/tap method, and only make the holes as large as you need. Repairing drywall afterwards can be an art but its not insurmountable and then at least you aren't wasting money on the wrong solution.


This just happened to me in January with my awesome bottom of the line stove that came with my home.

Glow burner (WB13K0021) - They degrade over time.
Safety valve (WB19K10006) - Turns off too quickly before there is enough gas concentration to successfully ignite.
Gas cut off valve is partially closed causing insufficient flow. Mine is inside a cabinet were I keep pots/pans and its possible, depending on the type of ball valve your builder used and its orientation, that shoving things in an area like this can move the valve.

The glow burner appeared to be what was bad on my oven.

Depending on the age of the unit you may want to consider an entire replacement like I did. First there is the cost of the parts. They are always overpriced and could cost you 1/3 of a new unit or more. Second if you replace the parts yourself to save money you run the risk of the parts not fixing the issue or making it worse compounded by a service fee to get a pro to really fix it which could easily cost the entire price of a new unit.


How to check and turn on pilot light of this water tank?

There are detailed instructions on the water heater, text and diagrams, but the following is my recollections.

If the gas tap at the end of the house supply piping is turned off, the knobs on the heater will be in the operating positions.

Turn the main control on the tank off and then turn it to a position that will be labeled "Pilot". (Maybe just turn it to "Pilot".) Open the cover on the burner compartment so you can see inside.
Turn the smaller "pilot" valve to a position (usu 90 deg) which will allow the valve to be pushed down against a spring. Holding the valve down opens a safety valve and allows gas to flow to the pilot only.
While holding this valve down try to ignite the pilot by pressing an igniter button. Observe whether the pilot lights. If it does, continue to hold the button down for 15 seconds or so after the pilot lights so that the heat of the pilot can warm a sensor that allows it to stay on. If you release the button too soon, the pilot will go out.

If the pilot does not light with that press of the igniter, then continue to hold the pilot valve down, wait 15 sec, and press the igniter button again.

Turn the pilot valve to the operating position.
Turn the main valve to its operating position and desired temperature. When you do this the main gas burner should come on and start heating the water in the tank. In 30 min or so you will have usable warmed water in the tank.
Close the cover on the burner compartment.

EDIT

http://www.home-repair-central.com/how-to-light-a-water-heater.html


What to look for when choosing a new bathtub?

The most common discrepancies in price between tubs, not counting accessories like heaters and jets, are due to four factors: style, depth, build quality and brand. A garden tub will generally cost you more than a simple rectangular built in, and a clawfoot is more expensive still, followed by "custom" installations like non-overflow tubs.

In the same style, the depth of the tub determines the volume and weight of water the tub must hold and therefore the dimensions and thickness of the material. More material == higher cost.

Even in the same style and depth, one maker may build their tub out of cast iron while another uses plastic, or even in the same material, one maker may double the thickness of the tub walls to increase durability and thus longevity (removing a damaged built-in bathtub is no small job; it can even require a full remodel because it requires re-tiling the backsplash).

Lastly, major name brands will command a higher price even if their product is inferior. Jacuzzi, for one, is a trademarked brand name that has apparently rested on its laurels; I was warned away from even their thousand-dollar tubs for quality reasons, but the tubs still cost a grand, cause they're branded with a universally-known name (so much so that people use the brand without knowing it's a brand, similar to "Band-Aid")

As far as actually what to look for, it depends on what you want. For an upstairs bathroom normally used by kids and guests, a standard Kohler, Moen or American Standard acrylic or cast built-in is fine. Cast iron is more durable, and holds the heat of the water well, but it'll be a beast and a half to put in place. For your own master bathroom, you can be pickier. The three brands I mentioned are names I trust, and they make tubs in all shapes, sizes, styles and pricepoints.


How can I fasten a threshold to concrete?

There are two recommended approaches:

Use plastic plug anchors. Use a hammerdrill or rotary hammer to drill holes sized for the plugs--typicaly in the 5/16" to 3/8" range. Drive the plugs in with a hammer and run the screws into them.
The advantage of this approach is that you can use a variety of screw types, depending on your needs, as long as they're the right size for the plug. Also, the plug can be removed and replaced if necessary. A disadvantage is the larger required hole size.

Use masonry screws. Pilot holes using a hammerdrill or rotary hammer according to the manufacturer's specifications. Drive the screws directly into the concrete.
The advantages of this approach are the smaller hole and greater holding power. Disadvantages include difficulty in driving the screws, the chance that the screw strips the concrete, the non-reusable nature of the system, and the limited head styles.

With both approaches, precise hole placement is critical. There's virtually no adjustment in position once they're drilled.


Tub faucet pressure starts strong then drops off

I think you've got debris in the lines & the tub is the perfect place to flush it all out. You'll want to turn on the closest faucet, with the aerator removed, to the Main Water Shut-off for the whole house & then turn off The Main.

You'll want to leave that closest faucet open for now & turn The Main on & off several times to make sure it itself is scraped clean & only clean water is coming out of that faucet. It's common for The Main to accumulate mineral build-up. Then, turn off that faucet, reinstall its aerator & turn The Main off.

Now, you'll need to go to the tub & remove those handles & their valves, if you have 2 of them. If you have a single handle, then that handle, its wall-plate & its cartridge need to come out. Then, shut the tub drain & door or curtain & go turn on The Main to flush everything into the tub.

That should clear everything & get you back to normal. If you're unfamiliar or uncomfortable then take pictures as you go or call a plumber to do this operation.


Is there any level of radon in the home that is *immediately* dangerous?

According to this Radon Dose Calculator, if you are exposed to 30 pCi/L the dose rate is 6.275 µSv/h.  Multiply by 30 days and 24 hrs/day to get 4500 µSv, or 4.5 mSv dose over 30 days.

Wikipedia suggests that is similar a CT scan (which is a significant dose).  You are probably not in the house 24 hours a day so you could adjust the numbers downward.

Here's another nice visualization of different doses.


Can I slow an air cooler's fan speed with an additional regulator?

After looking at the photo and the units size I am guessing it is a evaporative cooler commonly called a swamp cooler as the water falling down with air flow creates cool air. If this is the case you could slow the fan but remember the cooling is based on the air flow.
If I am wrong and the cooler uses a refrigerant you should not adjust the fan as slowing the fan can cause the system to ice up. Icing affects system performance and in severe cases can damage the evaporator coils.


How do I test a 220v tanning bed without an outlet?

One option, if you truly don't have any 220v outlets in your home, is to take it to a local RV park/campground.

Most campgrounds have multiple outlet types and are easily accessed by a truck so I think this could be a great way to test an electric appliance before moving it into your home. You'll need a site with a 50 amp hookup. I'd try public campgrounds before private ones.


Can the knock test tell you whether a stud is wood or metal?

I suppose it's possible although I've never noticed it myself. Although now that I think about it, every time I've worked with steel its been in an industrial setting (hospitals, etc.) which means it was covered with sound mat.

If you want to know for sure, take rare a earth magnet and run it across the area. If it doesn't stick, well non evidence is not evidence as they say. But if it does, you know it's not wood:) Go horizontal till you get a hit (if you get one) then go up and down a bit to make sure you're not just hitting a screw.


I am removing a switch from a gang box. What is the appropriate way to cap the circuit?

If the switches are basic (not 3-way and not having some special feature needing a neutral), you are correct.

The simplest way to remove the switch and leave the outlets always live is to twist the two wires (other than the bare or green ground wire) from the switch together and cover with a wire nut. These will most likely be both black, black and red, or black and white (but the white will be hot, and if code was followed, marked with black tape, paint or marker).

The ground wire can simply be removed and pushed to the back of the box, but to avoid the risk of a bare wire touching a live wore or terminal, you may want to add a wire nut to the end of the ground as well.

You can then put a blank cover plate over the switch box.


Mounting an outdoor electrical box to a lamp post

Misconception: You need a GFCI out in the weather to run your Christmas lights (or whatever.)
More nuanced view from experience: You need GFCI protection for that outlet. You may already have GFCI protection for that outlet that you don't know about. If you spend $3-5 on a plug-in outlet tester with GFCI test button, you can find out if you have GFCI protection on that outlet by plugging it in and pushing the button. If the power turns off, then you get to go looking for where the GFCI protecting it is. They live a lot longer if they are inside the house, out of the weather, with the outside circuit attached to their "Load" terminals.
Misconception: outside outlet boxes must be sealed! Reality: preventing bulk water ingress is good, but all outside conduits are defined as wet locations, and "perfectly sealing" outside boxes tends to mean that condensation does not drain out, rather than that they are dry.
If there's no cable clamp (which might well be sticking out into the lamp-post and require looking carefully from inside the box to notice) and the back of the box is not connected to conduit, that's an issue, but "sealing" is not really an issue, in general. You can stuff conduit openings with "duct seal" to reduce air and water movement, as well as (small) wildlife. That can reduce condensation.
As for mounting a box to a lamp-post, attach it with a couple of screws, drill a hole for the wire access, and either run conduit up to that hole inside the lamppost to run wires in, or use a cable clamp in the back of the box and run cable inside the lamp-post to a junction box with another cable clamp where you transition to wires in conduit, if you have conduit. Many lampposts just have direct buried cables run to them - if they are buried at a sufficient depth and are rated for wet locations and direct burial that meets code, though experience says that running wires in conduit has far less problems in the long run. Edit: actually, the lamp-post itself may qualify as a "conduit" of sorts, so you may not need a conduit inside it to run wires.
However, you have a more extensive problem here - if the cable sheath isn't gray, your cable really is "Romex" or NM/B, and it's not suitable for wet locations - which all exterior conduits are defined to be. The "Romex-like" cable that is suitable for wet locations is UF, and has a gray sheath. So all that cable needs to be replaced back to a point that is inside and dry (if you actually have conduit, you can replace it with THWN wires, rather than cables. Wires are a LOT easier to pull in conduit.)


It's all in a name

The silly folks who made your air handler decided to call their C terminal a B terminal instead, perhaps because it has a blue wire hooked up to it in the wiring diagram.  This blue wire goes to CN-1, which connects to the blue wire (return) from the fan relay and to the blue/black return wire to the transformer.

So, hook your thermostat C wire up to the B terminal and call it a day.


What's my health situation like living in an exposed fiberglass insulation for 2 weeks

Disclaimer that this is only my experiences with it

Fiberglass is mostly an irritant to your skin. Unlike it's far more dangerous cousin, asbestos, fiberglass is not something that is fatal if you're merely exposed (there are various mentions of it being a possible risk, but I've not seen anything saying X exposure raises your cancer risk by Y).

That all having been said, you don't want to breathe the stuff if you can help it. I had to unexpectedly work with some once and had a cough for a couple of days. I've tried to wear the simple respirator masks since. I put some fiberglass in my attic last summer and, with a respiration mask, I had no problems.

If I were you, I would not be at home until the ceiling drywall is replaced, and I would try to get that done first. Once the interior ceiling is enclosed, you should be good to clean out the house. The fibers are fairly large and most simple filtration can catch it. Change all your HVAC filters and invest in some respiration masks while you clean the place out. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter and maybe clean your carpets as well.

Going into the attic isn't a risk, incidentally. Fiberglass is only risky when you're moving it around. If it's stationary, and has been for some time, it's fine.


When in doubt, find the main shutoff valve to your house and turn it off. That will shut off the pressure to hot an cold systems so you can do your repair work..


Can I hire non-licensed architecture firm for residential project?

No, you do not need a licensed and/or registered architect for a residential project in California.

You can check with the State licensing agency. Here: https://www.cab.ca.gov/

The building department can require anything, including peanut butter on the roof. (If they do, there’s an appeals process, which they’d loose on the peanut butter issue.)

However, if they require seismic calculations, footing calculations, plumbing calculations, electrical calculations, setback requirements, etc. your designer can hire a local engineer and/or architect to prepare such calculations.

Make certain you know what your design firm is responsible for...approved plans and specs suitable for a building permit? AND what is the fee for such plans and specs and when they’ll be completed and suitable for submission to the Building Department.

Also, are they going to assist during construction? If not, what is their fee (hourly) to answer the contractor’s questions.

Are they helping pick the colors, size of HVAC unit(s), plumbing fixtures, vents, etc.


Can I plug an air conditioner and a chest freezer into the same outlet?

This is a 20amp outlet, but before you go drawing 16amps/80% of that, you should verify that there is a 20amp breaker/fuse on the other end as well as 12 gauge wiring (thicker than the standard 14 gauge you find on most 15amp circuits). If there is only a 15amp breaker, then the max you can draw from that outlet is 12amp (80% of 15amps).

You mentioned your one device pulls 8amps - that leaves at minimum, 4 amps available for your freezer - what is the current draw of that device? If its 4 or under and the breaker is 15amps then you are OK.  If it is over 4 then you have to ensure you have a 20amp breaker in which case the max you'd want to pull is about 16amps combined.

If it is a 20amp breaker, then you will need to find a power bar that is rated for 20amp - I think most of the time they are rated for 15 but if you look hard enough you will probably find one for 20.  You could also replace that one outlet with a 2 recepticle outlet which would eliminate the need for a power bar.


Will faced insulation behind poly sheeting trap moisture?

We don't use plastic sheeting for vapor barrier (on warm side of wall) anymore. We've learned that moisture (vapor) will get past the plastic sheeting (I.e.: around outlets, switches, vents, etc.) and then not be able to "move" back out of the wall. Then, that creates rot.

Also, the paper vapor barrier needs to be moved to the warm side of the wall.


What is the name for a lateral band saw guide: one that guides wood forward at a set distance from the blade


How can I make a room feel bigger than it is?

Ways to make a room feel big (not a complete list):

Cover one wall with mirrors - this may be extreme but it is effective. Even framed mirrors make a room feel larger.
Increase the amount of light in the room
Paint your walls a light color
Reduce the amount of furniture/stuff in the room
On wood or tile floors use an area rug that is smaller than normal
Pull the furniture away from the wall
Leave your windows uncovered

Hopefully one or more of these suggestions will help.


Can I use old style individual faucets on a bathroom vanity?

Plumbing code is generally unconcerned with the style of whatever fixture you choose to install, only that the fixture work properly and be installed properly.


What should I do about a crack in the concrete slab in my living room?

This is not going to be the answer you wanted to hear, but here goes.

Although I cannot see the cracks up close, it appears that the cracks were created by the floor flexing in a fairly straight line.  The cracks wander in a band about a foot wide with some parallel and joining cracks.

My first plan of attack would be to remove a rectangle of the damaged and weakened concrete apx one foot wide by the length of the crack, apx 10 feet. This can be done with a small hand held jackhammer. ($30 to $40/day at rental store). Slightly bevel the edges back from the surface to create an inverted "V", so it is slightly wider at the bottom than the top.  Once the edges are clean of dust and chips,  carefully fill the open void with a mixture of concrete mix equivalent to a 5000 pound mix.  You can use a ready mixed in a bag, just add water. Keep the mixture a bit to the stiff side, not too wet. Fill the entire void  be sure to push the mix tightly against the existing concrete. Wetting the existing concrete isn't a bad idea. Trowel smooth.  Done.

The reason I would not recommend a quick fill fix is that there may be lots of other cracks below the surface. If you don't get a good solid patch, water could wick up through cracks or the hidden damage could compress or further separate in future shakes. Although it seems like a big job, a 1 foot by 10 foot removal and repair is not as bad as it sounds. With the proper tools, you should be able to do the whole job in 4 to 6 hours.   Good Luck


Should newly added house steps feature insulation?

If the base for your stairs are not at the same level in ground as your foundation for your house, your stairs could or will be subject to frost heave. For that reason a thin layer (1/2") of insulation between the house and steps will act as a slip sheet so when one moves slightly, one will not affect the other. If there is any concern of wicking it will remedy that as well.
As a mention, all masonry products soak up moisture, some less than others, but all do. Any masonry that is exposed to the weather is supposed to be rated to withstand this exposure and any wood in contact with the masonry, is to be pressure treated, at least in modern times. If it is an older home, it may not have pressure treated material and hopefully other means were used at the time to provide separation between the wood and masonry, whether it be a type of metal or even tar paper...


Installing a dimmer switch to multiple lights

A dimmer switch can replace a regular switch as long as the lights/light bulbs are dimmable.

A three way switch is a way to have two switches control one light.


Can I use 14 gauge wire on a 20 AMP electrical circuit?

You have to use the rated cable (in this case, 12 AWG), or larger, throughout the circuit. Either use 12/2 everywhere or use a 15A breaker.

Keep in mind that if you use 14/2 and 12/2 in the same circuit with a 15A breaker then there is a risk of confusion in the future if someone looks at the 12/2 coming out of the breaker and thinks "its 12 AWG, I can upsize to 20A" and doesn't realize there is 14/2 elsewhere in the circuit. So all 12 and 20A or all 14 and 15A is preferred, but mixed 12 & 14 and 15A is code compliant.


Should I fill in the spaces between pieces in a wood floor?

It's largely an aesthetic issue. Obviously the gaps will accumulate some dust and dirt, but once coated, cleaning shouldn't be that difficult as the finish will make very thin gaps disappear, and will reduce the roughness and volume of the large gaps. The solution to that is matching the wood with a filler, troweling or knifing it on, and lightly sanding the putty with a finer grit (a sanding pole helps) to smooth it and remove any excess material that gets onto the wood proper.

I recently did some puttying on a laminate floor that I had replaced sections on, and with the proper color, it can really make a difference visually, but it was a lot of work. With the laminate, it's not really possible to finish so, the putty definitely started to pick up fine dirt which actually helped blend it to the pattern on the laminate. With this floor, when you lay down the polyurethane you'll be protecting the filler so you won't have the same issue with discoloration. Honestly, I've seen a lot of old two-flats in Chicago with this and it often fits in with the general character of the home. But if this were new construction, and the walls, trim, and ceilings were flawless, it would certainly stand out.

I guess the decision you have to make is can you live looking at this every day? Is it going to be visible, or will you be throwing an area rug on it? Is it in a room that doesn't see visitors? Do you have old, brick walls, and does it fit the general character of the room? Are you OC enough to sit there working whatever square-footage you have?

SEE

Hardwood Floor Gaps & Cracks
How to Fix Hardwood Floor Gaps


Backfill the hole with dirt/fill to about 10-12" below the surface.  You should compact the soil frequently as you go - don't wait until the end.  Wetting it will help compact it.  After the soil add 6-8" of 1/2" crushed gravel.  Compact this.  Last, add 4-6" of concrete.

Unless you plan on parking something exceptionally heavy, you can use any concrete really - 2000-5000psi.


How can I enlarge an opening in wall tile for an electrical box?

An angle grinder with a diamond-dust blade will cut that tile easily. It's very messy, of course, so have a helper hold a strong vacuum right near the blade as you cut.

You might also be able to just file enough material away to get it to fit. A common rasp or other abrasive tool could work. Wall tile is relatively soft, but the glaze isn't, so expect some dulling of such tools to occur. Don't use your best woodworking equipment.


What should I be aware of in buying second-hand sinks and toilets?

I applaud your effort at frugality and environmentalism. The "throwaway" mindset peeves me to no end. Many folks change out fixtures just to change the look or size, and there are plenty of good units to be had. In fact, I'll soon be swapping out a perfectly serviceable round-bowl toilet for an elongated one just to better accommodate an add-on bidet.

Some suggestions...

Look for well-known brand names. They tend to have better integrated components and repair parts are more readily available.
Some parts are replaceable and available from third parties, such as toilet valves. Some are proprietary and may be hard to find, such as toilet-to-tank connections. Do a little research as needed to avoid surprises.
Ask about condition from the seller/provider. You'll then be able to decide whether you can live with known issues.
Inspect porcelain closely for cracks, and be careful when moving. Even mild impacts with rigid objects (garage floors) can cause damage. Always use padding.
Give the items the sniff test. Long-term problems rarely fail to leave an odor trail, be it mold or... other material.
Clean things up very well to avoid extra charges from sub-contractors. Razor blades work well on porcelain to remove caulk. Plastic scrapers are good for counter tops, etc.


I would re-prime.  3 years is a long time, and your expectation is that this paint job will last even longer.  It's possible that it would be fine without, but if it's not, you'll regret the decision.  You could always use a primer + paint combo as long as you're not switching between oil and latex.


Delta Faucet: Maximum Gallons Per Minute with New Aerator

This faucet comes from the factory with the Delta RP61340 aerator which is a 1.5 gpm aerator.

This would mean that the faucet's internal valve and/or water delivery configuration is what limits GPM delivery to 1.2. So... NO, replacing the aerator won't help you because it comes with a 1.5 but is certified at 1.2


Yes, two story is probably less cost to build because it has a smaller “footprint”, but it’s less than you think: 1) The footings can be smaller because they are supporting one floor and not two, 2) Two story will require additional square footage for circulation (stairs), 3) Because of the height of your RV, you’ll have additional height requirement than normal which will require special scaffolding for construction, 4) Possible special water pump due to extra height of second floor, 5) Additional space required for “Entry” downstairs, and 6) Extra fire rated protection between garage space and living space above. (Fire material is required between garage and living for single story too, but easier to install and less required.)

Maintenance is more for two story: washing windows, paint, cleaning the gutters, etc.

The two story option gives you more privacy, but you’ll have the largest thighs in the county.


How do I handle a piece of wax from a toilet ring falling into the drain?

Assuming anything like a normal, to code, plumbing install:
Unlikely to be a problem.
Per (IBC) code:
Toilets are installed on a 3" pipe, minimum.
Drain pipe sizes stay the same or get larger in the direction of flow - never smaller.
A golf-ball sized hunk of wax is much smaller than 3" - otherwise it couldn't have fallen in the pipe. Therefore, it should flow downstream until it annoys your septic system (where it should just float into the scum layer until your pump truck comes) or sewage plant operator (who have seen worse things floating.)


Seized "ballofix" ball valve can't shut off water properly

How can I get it to close fully?

The plastic handle is expendable. It will break long before the valve spindle. This is good. I would use an indelible pen (sharpie) to mark the maximum angle it turns, then wiggle it back and forth vigorously a few hundred times and see if it is improving. If so - continue, if not - stop.

  The black tap handle is actually removable, it just pulls of, and reveals that it is just a glorified hex-key. Could I just use a longer hex key to provide better leverage

I would try that. but I wouldn't extend the leverage very far.

  or is there a problem in applying too much force?

Most ball valves seem to be pretty robust but I'm sure you could destroy one (or the surrounding pipework) with a 6-foot lever.

  Should I also grip the pipes around to ensure they aren't put under force?

Yes. I would try to do that when you start to apply greater forces than normal. Maybe it is possible to firmly clamp the valve body to a strong length of wood or steel and hold that when applying leverage to the valve handle (or hex key)

  tap gently with a hammer as I turn the tap

Worth trying even if there is a 1:100 chance of having any effect.

  use spray oil (e.g. WD40) and let that soak in

I can't imagine that would help, but again, it is a cheap and easy option to try, and less likely to cause damage than the other ideas you listed. So if you have lots of time, this is one to try first.

If all fails, I would rent or buy a pipe-freezer and just replace the valve. You need a plan B immediately ready to hand in case this goes badly wrong. My plan B would be to turn off the water to the building using the valve in the street but that option might not be available to you.


Replacing kitchen sink, hot water valve under sink fails to stop water flow

Replacing a leaking stop valve requires shutting off the water upstream. If your water heater is the next practical upstream shutoff location then it is fine to shut it off there.

If there is a shut off valve available on the water heater outlet then you do not have to shut off the water heater if you complete the repair in a reasonably short amount of time (a day). Is this case you would not drain it. You should close the inlet to the water heater, open a hot water faucet downstream, then close the water heater outlet valve. This will relieve stored pressure in the water heater.

If there is no shut-off on the outlet and you shut it off on the inlet then you still do not have to turn it off as long as the stop valve repair is above the height of the heater, as it will remain full of water.

If there is no shut-off on the outlet and the stop valve repair is below the level of the water heater, the water heater may drain out as you open a faucet to relieve pressure on the line so you can work on it. In this case you should turn the water heater off.

So...

There is no need to drain the water heater
if the water heater remains full and the repairs can be completed in a reasonably short time, there is no need to turn the water heater off
if the water heater is or becomes drained for any reason, it must be turned off immediately


Need mfgr of double hung casements w/"PG" engraved on lock

That logo looks like Portland Glass, located in lovely Portland Maine.


Can I replace my oil-based water heater with several electric ones?

You're adding more points of failure, and when the small tank runs out, you will see a temperature drop until the tank fills with hot water from the reserve. You also have to worry about eventually reselling the home. Given that, my preference is to keep it simple with a single tank.

One option to give you the same effect is a single electric tank with the lower element turned down. You are then only keeping half of the tank hot but can easily adjust it to have full capacity.


I would remove the t1-11 siding and replace with hardi-plank along with new facia and soffits...


Boosting a dryer vent with an inline booster attached to the main line with a wye

That seems unlikely to work. A wye is not a venturi, so all that adding more air to the dryer vent is going to accomplish would be to further reduce flow from the dryer.

You are absolutely certain that the whole duct (and vent/exit) is clean and clear? You replaced the whole thing with rigid duct?


This is an argument that seems to never end. I work for several hotels and in every single room the toilet is caulked. It just plain looks nicer and it helps to stabilize the toilet. Some say that it will hide a leak but that makes limited sense. If a toilet leaks at the base, it's usually related to the flange leaking. Now, if the toilet gets cracked for some reason you might get a leak there but that's rare. Also, what if someone or an animal urinates and it gets underneath the base of the toilet? How would you clean that? Consider just water sitting under there and stagnating. I'm a big fan of caulking around a toilet. Although, you have to do it right. Use tape if you are inexperienced and don't buy anything cheap.

If you do choose to caulk, use a 100% silicone mold-resistant caulk like GE.


Suspended grid ceiling with T-channel on the perimeter?

There's no reason you couldn't do what you have planned. Suspended ceilings are a decorative feature, and not a structural one, so you can do whatever you like. I assume you'll cut your interior channel and lay it over the perimeter channel as normal, as opposed to somehow replicating the locking mechanical connection you'd normally have between interior channels.
You're going to have one particular challenge, though, and that's keeping them flat.
L-channel is rigidly mounted to the wall, so the horizontal portion is more or less stuck in position. You can lay interior channel on it and it doesn't move much.
In your case, you'll be suspending the T-channel and it'll have freedom to pendulum away from level. Laying the interior channel on it will have a tendency to tilt it down on the inside flange.
One solution might be to use pop rivets or screws to tie things together more rigidly. You could simply do this through the mating horizontal flanges, or you could strategically cut tabs into the ends of the interior channel so you can rivet in a hidden fashion:
TOP (PLAN) VIEW
__________________________________________

             rivet locations              <-- perimeter channel
_____________*______*_____________________
            ----..----   <-- tabs cut from center rib of interior channel
         |      ||      |
_________|      ||      |_________________
         |      ||      |

if you are going to rivet from the bottom you might consider just floating L channel, though. It'll look a little more standard since it's narrower and it's usually cheaper.


What material is this in my 1950s home's walls? Is it dangerous?

This looks "Sauerkrautplatte", aka Holzwolle-Leichtbauplatte. It's made from wood shavings and cement, but no asbestos (AFAIK). They used to be common as a form of drywall and insulation (but are not anymore).

  Wood wool lightweight boards (also called HWL boards ) are building boards that consist of long-fiber wood wool and mineral-based binders . HWL panels are used as plasterable insulation panels both indoors and outdoors. Colloquially, they are often referred to as "sauerkraut plates" or "sauerkohlplatten".


Why does one light on a new chandelier light up after the others?

Your chandelier uses compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) bulbs. Unlike conventional incandescent bulbs, these devices have internal circuitry that causes the bulb to light. CFL bulbs have been noted to take some time to come on and to reach normal brightness as the circuitry reaches full activity.

More recent versions of these bulbs have improved and are often advertised as instant on. However, there may still be a slight delay. This is normal. If you swap the delaying bulb into a different socket, it is likely that the new socket will now show the slight delay.

If you try other bulbs (or other brands), you may be able to find ones that come on simultaneously.


Would it be reasonable and legal to use AFCI receptacles next to a panel instead of AFCI breakers?

The 4x4 box right next to the service panel is a great idea, and I do that myself a lot.

Nobody cares which wiring method you use downstream of the AFCI.

Between the service panel and the AFCI, the inherent problem is the AFCI would never* detect a problem on that stretch of wire.  That is a vulnerability, so that is where they require metal jacketed cable before the AFCI if the AFCI is not a breaker.

So, use a better wiring method.  I have to say, for wiring between a panel and a very nearby box, EMT is faraway the easiest way to do that IMO. Keep it shorter than 2 feet, whcich eliminates the wire derate for 5 or more circuits.  Ideally use 3/4 conduit, which has room for more than 10 wires and will give easier pulling.

Go to a metal 4x4 x 2-1/4 box, and use a 2-GFCI lid with 1/2" of lift.  That will give you plenty of practical room to fit wires.  If needed use an EMT nipple to chain to another 4x4 box.  An arc fault inside this heavy metal is very unlikely to successfully  start a fire.

Use THHN wire on through the conduit.  If the circuit can't easily be moved to terminate in the box, come back into the service panel with THHN and splice there.  This out-and-back-in method has 4 wires in the conduit per circuit, so watch your conduit fills.

* Actually, AFCIs do have some ability to detect arc faults immediately before them.  We recently had a Siemens AFCI breaker faulting because it was clipped into a GE panel, and the clip/bus was not quite compatible.


Best way to insulate sweaty sheet metal ducts in unconditioned space?

(links are to Google image search)

With foil and fiberglass duct wrap you have to use tape, and be able to get all the way around or it won't stay there (the tape has to lap over its other end or it will not hold).

I'd recommend self-adhesive foil and foam duct wrap.

You might want to do the easy-to-reach and the majority of it with fiberglass, and use the self adhesive where you have to, to keep the cost down.

Surface prep is to wipe with alcohol - do not use mineral spirits. And of course; to be dry.


Removing Tuck Tape from an unfinished window frame

Your builder is an idiot. That is just plain lazy.  Yep, Goo Gone, or maybe some mineral spirits. As a last resort if the aforementioned don't work, try acetone.  Acetone dissolves most glues, but also can damage the finish. Test a small area first.


Reason for no header spanning this load bearing wall?

Why is there no header for the full height doorways?

I can think of two possibilities:

The wall is structurally unsound due to the missing support and if so, you should see some signs of that. (i.e. sagging, drywall cracking, etc.)
The wall is designed such that the unsupported span load is carried by the support on either side of the doorway opening.

Number 2 is most likely the case in my opinion.

  Do I need to add a header that spans the width of that area, or would removing those 2 studs in the middle be fine regardless?

That's a question for a structural engineer.  The loading from whatever this wall is supporting needs to be analyzed and an appropriate structure to transfer the load needs to be designed.  There is in no way adequate information in this question posting to provide an answer and, in fact, you will likely need engineer-stamped plans for your building permit application.


What good storage rack or furniture are there? What considerations should I have to build one?

Turn a 2x4 Ikea Expedit bookcase on its side. Add more units if you need more storage. It's deep enough to easily hold up to a 60" or so TV on top.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10103088

I'd say go for the ones with the varying sized cubby holes, but I guess they're not on the website anymore.

You can also get handy little boxes that fit into the holes, so that your actual games are tucked away.


What kind of paint should be used on an outdoor concrete walkway?

Paint on a concrete walkway will never last very long, and adding sand would definitely make it chip faster. The correct way to do it would be to stain it. I would use a good stain instead of what you get at the big box stores. Then seal it. Concrete sealer you can get anywhere. You can add some sharkgrip to it for the non-slip you are looking for.


Screw down 3/4" plywood or cement board for the deep area & 1/4" for the less deep. Then, use very much less floor leveler for a final fill-in. Make sure you account for the flooring, so the 3/4" might need to be 1/2" & the 1/4" may need to be shortened. Do not use shims & create voids.


Can I run cables into the side of my breaker panel?

The NEC doesn't have a problem with cable entering a panel from different knockouts. In fact that's why they're there. But the entry point must be bushed to prevent the sharp edge of the knockout from cutting and damaging the insulation from the conductor and comes with a strain relief method. This can usually be purchased in any big box or even a local hardware store in the electrical section. They come in various types and manufacturers but the store should have someone there to help you select one.

Hope this helps.


what is the easiest way too clean adhesive residue from glass?

Orange oil (limonene) based cleaners dissolve sticker residue as well or better than acetone. Put some on, let it sit a bit, scrub a little with nylon,and wash off. There are zillions of different brands of the stuff.


Can I get 3 double pole breakers in my circuit breaker?

I think you're going to need an electric service upgrade if you want to use this water heater.

Your 100 amp service is already somewhat loaded, as well as the box being physically full.

If you call for hot water while the dryer or range is in use (as obvious heavy loads on your panel), you may well trip the main, if you do not upgrade to 200 amp service before installing this water heater.

A different water heater might make more sense, unless you have other reasons to upgrade your electric service; one of the heat-pump water-heaters (or a heat-pump-add-on to an existing water heater tank), perhaps.

Edit, Add: Unless this is a house that stands vacant for long periods of time, there's surprisingly little "standby loss" (what you save by using an instant tankless electric resistance heater .vs. a tank-type electric resistance heater that's insulated to modern standards) - and if it does stand vacant for long periods, you can switch the water heater off when you leave. Changing to a heat pump water heater (HPWH) can, by contrast, save quite a bit and get you "free dehumidificaton" in the summertime. If you have gas available, it's more of a toss-up - gas and HPWH can be similar in cost to run, and a gas water heater will usually cost considerably less to buy. Most of the cost of running a normal (modern, well-insulated) tank-type water heater is, in fact, the cost of heating the water that you actually use. Most households will see little savings from using an instant-tankless waterheater, in practice.


I take it for $700 you are paying people to do this work.  And I gather these are garden variety handymen using random products bought at the local builder supply; when people say "polyurethane" without any qualifiers, they usually mean the Home Depot stuff.

Have you talked to marine/boat painting places?  There are a variety of products intended for marine brightwork which will perform much, much better.  Because, obviously, they operate in VERY challenging environments.

Oh, and to head off a common misnomer about marine products, "Spar" varnish is not the stuff. Spar varnish is lousy varnish which has all its best properties compromised away so it can flex without cracking, as it needs to do on spars.  If you're not regularly bowing that door 2" every time you open it, you don't need or want spar varnish.

Now if you're really, really hellbound and determined to paint that door, the products your painter was talking about are alkyd enamels.  They're not water-based, so they are stinky.  They are also illegal to apply to buildings in some jurisdictions, but there's a weird loophole that lets you buy them in quart cans.  My Sherwin Williams dealer cheerfully sells me alkyds by the gallon, but is always "out of gallon cans" and sends me out the door with four quarts.  (I actually am painting industrial machinery; I think they just don't believe me).

While you're at the boat place, you can also ask them about marine LPU.  This is a 2-component linear aliphatic polyurethane like you haven't met before; same basic stuff as Imron and what they paint airplanes with.  That stuff, I do use on architectural surfaces.  I have doors I painted 8 years ago. You can't tell I didn't paint it last week.


From this LINK
The 2x4 wall can handle around 1000 pounds vertically. But you put the limit to the test meaning you are probably breaking the wall before reaching 1000 pounds.
Use a joint or two, a stud wall helps, or doubling the layer could help, anything to reinforce the wall if the main concerns are the wall breaking out because abused by children.
And this question can be found in the discussion here :
DIYchatroom.com


Two ideas: A plastic putty knife, or a shower squeegee.

Plastic disposable putty knifes are sold in most paint sections and are cheap and somewhat flexible.  I've seen them up to 6" wide.

Another common item would be a rubber-edged squeegee commonly sold to dry off glass showers to prevent water spotting.  The flexible rubber might make it hard to control the thickness of the silicone, but it seems like it would be worth a try.


Build a filler shelf or projection. Nicely done it can be storage for bath gel etc

Or you can use it for candles for added ambience...

And had to do a shelf like that for an 8" gap due to the size of the bathroom and the cast iron bath that needed to be retro-fitted. Some nice stained wood and tight edges with sealer and it is not a problem. Also had a tiny slope from back to the front edge so that any splashed water does not sit at the back edge.


How do I clean paint and glue from bluestone?

Muriatic could be a bit harsh, causing a 'bleached' spot. Many natural stones are sensitive to acids, most being alkaline (from types of limestone).

A "citrus" paint stripper could be less harsh, but it is acidic, also.

I would use ammonia and a soft nylon hand brush, alternating after rinses with a mild detergent.


How can I minimize or eliminate noise and vibration coming into my home?

You are entitled to the, “quiet enjoyment of your property” and your local municipalities are not exempt.

Pump stations are basically very deep wells. When they fill up from surrounding gravity drainage systems, a LARGE pump kicks on and pumps everything to another location. As you can imagine, the pump needs to be serviced and maintained at regular intervals. Cities often skip maintenance procedures because, 1) lack of funds, or 2) lack of understanding.

1) Cities have tight budgets and will often reduce maintenance on many items, including equipment, roofing, etc.

2) The required maintenance is not random. There is a VERY SPECIFIC list of items to perform AND in a specific order. I doubt the work is being done or being done correctly.

At the time of installation there was a “Maintenance Manual” prepared by the pump manufacturer and the design engineer. I doubt they can find it or that they’re following it.

There’s little you can do to your house to solve this type of problem, but the city can give the pump an overhaul or replace it and 90% of your problems will go away. I’d contact them and see if they can help. If not, you may need an attorney.


Does this existing wiring with shared neutrals need to be corrected?

That's fine, but you'll need to apply a factory handle-tie to those two breakers.  When someone shuts them off, they must shut off together for safety reasons.

The handle-tie also assures they are phased correctly (on opposite phases), which they must be to avoid overloading neutral.

This type of arrangement is called a multi-wire branch circuit or MWBC.  There's nothing wrong with it, and nothing wrong with asymmetrical ampacity as long as the neutral is sized for the higher ampacity.  MWBCs have fallen out of favor because of the rise in AFCI and GFCI applications, which they don't always play well with.


Decide which wall studs (the vertical 2x4s) will support the shelf
Remove the brackets from the shelf
Attach the brackets to the selected studs
Place the shelf on top of the brackets
Fasten the shelf to the brackets


Best way to remove old paint from door hinges

I would remove the affected parts from the door and wall and drop them in a small container which can be a) placed outdoors (for fume abatement) and, b) have paint thinner or Goof Off to soak for minutes or hours.

Except for possible varnish finishes on the hardware, paint thinner has no effect on brass, stainless steel, etc.


Is it bad that my porcelain tiles were stored outside in the rain?

If they are true porcelain, they have not absorbed water.  Porcelain are rated for exterior applications.

Some people generically call ceramic tiles porcelain, which may not be rated for continuous water exposure.

The porcelains will completely clean up and not harbor anything other than a surface covering of mold, which might have come from the packaging.

Update

Tile Council  of North America (TCNA) Porcelain Certification

  Porcelain tile is defined as an impervious tile with a water absorption of 0.5% or less
   as measured by the ASTM C373 test method. There are, however, many instances in which
   tile not meeting this standard is advertised and sold as porcelain tile.
   Marketplace confusion, installation problems and even liability concerns can result
   when non-porcelain tile is misrepresented in the marketplace.


That supply cable is nice and stout and can support more than 60A.  I agree with R.M.E... Whether you'll need that depends on the size of the water heater.  The can lights are of no consequence, and the deciding factor is what else you'll be plugging into the 9 sockets.

Regardless, I strongly recommend "going a bit nuts" with the subpanel size.  You want a lot of extra spaces, because running out of spaces is a serious problem so easily avoided!  Aim to have twice the spaces you expect to use. You figure "oh, I'll just run a table saw", 1 breaker space, then you find out you can't run a dust collector on the same circuit, +1 space.  Then you get a nice deal on a 220V table saw +2 spaces, etc. etc. etc.

Also, don't get a 60A subpanel because you won't get full capacity out of your wire.

The subpanel can be larger than the feeder breaker and wire. Get at least a 100A because your wire can support it, or even a 125A if that makes sense (bigger panels also give you more bonus breakers).


You need 4 wires for a subpanel (neutral and ground separated) - as such, 6AWG is all that fits - 4 AWG would require 1" conduit at a minimum (even for 3 wires.)

I don't keep this in my head - I use this, or one like it:

http://www.electrician2.com/calculators/rf_calculator.html


How to secure aluminium window lock handle that keeps falling off?

The screw you're showing is a self-tapping metal screw.  It's designed to cut it's own channel into metal and grab hold by cutting it's own threads - but it's not meant for repeated uses because repeat uses can damage it's own threads, making its hole too big for it.

Take it to the local hardware store and get one that is slightly wider in diameter, and use it in place of the old one.


Code Question in regards to 120V / 20 amps

Unless I'm missing something, this is allowed, provided you have enough room in the boxes for the number of conductors coming through and connecting within.  If not, you may need a larger junction box.  For a continuous 20A load, you would need a separate line, but in this case, you are simply attaching a device with a 20A plug that itself provides multiple outlets (not a continuous load).

Since your pool lamp could potentially short or cause other issues (it being near water, etc.), you should consider moving it to another circuit so that you don't risk tripping the breaker on your computer equipment.


Reviews on Nest Thermostat - That Learns

I've got one that I've been using since late December. I'm not sure yet if it has helped reduce heating costs.  I have to examine the bill numbers from the last two months.

I also switched operating modes on the furnace when the Nest was installed.  I was previously using a single stage thermostat and relying on the furnace (a Bryant furnace) to decide when to activate the second stage.  With the Nest (and a new wire for activating the second stage (see below)), I'm now letting the Nest control both stages. So, I've changed two variables that will make deciding if the Nest is winning a bit more difficult.

It is easier to use than the last "dumb" thermostat we had.  There are other brands of smart thermostats out there that are similarly priced, and I'd bet they have similar features and smarts.

Installation was as easy as other thermostat installs I've done, save for the need to run a new control cable from the furnace to include a common wire. Our existing thermostat included wires for the R, G, and W connections but didn't include the C wire. This prevented the Nest from charging properly. Luckily, this new cable was very easy to run in our house, otherwise it would have been an upsetting development.

A couple things I like about the Nest in particular (these may be present in other brands, too):

Control via Internet.  Through the Nest website and an iPhone app, both my wife and I can adjust temperature and schedule. This is nice if we are on the way home and want to make sure it's not cold, if we wake up early and can't bear the thought of getting up when it's cold...
it provides visual feedback regarding whether a new temperature will save money with a green leaf icon when you decrease the set temperature.  It's not rocket science, but it's nice to see the leaf.
It's pretty. It's nice that it doesn't look terrible on the wall.
There is apparently a ZigBee controller in the Nest, which suggests potential for some kind of future home automation integration.  That's all speculation based solely on the existence of the chip in the Nest as found in a teardown, so I wouldn't bank on that.

I think the ease of use and the Internet control are worth the added cost over a normal thermostat.  They are nice to have. But, I think that a properly programmed normal thermostat will be as efficient as the Nest.


Three of 4 kitchen ceiling lights not lighting

Your type of fixture uses a Compact Fluorescent Light with replaceable tubes separate from the ballast.

Most likely, your builder fit "builder grade" (i.e. cheapie) CFL fixtures with cheap ballasts.  It's not unusual for several cheapies installed together to fail one at a time within months of each other.

A fixture is made up of 4 parts: the tube, the ballast, the lamp socket, and everything else.  Generally cheapies are cheap through and through, but the #1 thing to fail is ballasts, and you can obtain and swap ballasts.  Aftermarket ballasts tend to be better made, top brands are GE, Philips/Advance, Osram/Sylvania.

Another option is to switch to LED fixtures and there are two ways to do that.

Get a true LED fixture which does not have removable bulbs.  There's no need for LED emitters to be changeable, since they will outlive every other component including the house. Quality matters because if the onboard power supply fails, that kills the fixture.  Don't buy these at big-box stores, visit 2-3 genuine lighting supply houses.
Modify the fixtures with a socket that can take a screw-in LED. However this is not to be done lightly: the fixtures are simply not built for the heat of incandescent bulbs, and can burn your house down if you cheated an Incandescent bulb in there.  Unfortunately if there is a socket that can take an incandescent, some goober will put one there.  So you cannot use a socket for which incandescent bulbs exist, and this limits you to things like Gu24 or Gu10.


Can I splice a ground wire from old wiring to a GFCI outlet?

GFCI's don't actually require a ground wire, so it is legal to continue as-is.

Attaching the ground wire is worse than useless unless the ground wire you're attaching is actually connected to the house's grounding system.  So that's worth checking.  I would look for zero-ohm resistance between the ground wire and nearby water pipes, if they are metal.


How to install Light Fixtures - no ground in the ceiling box

If you don't know, get an electrician. Your life and property are at stake.

I could make some educated guesses here but if you followed them, had a problem, and I found out about it, I'd feel bad.


Is there any way to get around a high waste outlet pipe?

I can think of three solutions.
Raise the countertop
Increasing the height of the countertop, could give you enough height to install a proper drain.  Though I'm guessing you won't want to redo the cabinets and countertops.
Modify the plumbing
Lowering the inlet in the wall would give you enough height for a proper drain, and is likely the most common solution.  It looks like that may not be an option i your case, as it looks like that might be a concrete wall.
Install a basin pump
Drain the sinks into a basin, and then lift the waste water with a pump.  SANIVITE® makes the SANIVITE®, which is designed for this type of install. I'm sure other companies offer similar products, so shop around to find one to meet your needs.
With this type of setup, you'll need a power source, and enough space to fit the basin.

Whatever you decide, the current plumbing definitely needs to go.  All the pipe that's below the throat of the wall inlet, will be full of water. That means the trap seal is likely too deep, which will lead to frequent clogging and slow draining.

I do not recommend nor endorse the use of any product mentioned here, all products are mentioned for example purposes only.


Yes, there are outswing electronic strikes. Sometimes you see a cover plate bolted onto the door to prevent tampering with these. There are also magnetic locks that can be installed in both in and outswing configurations.


How do I install a Leviton light switch timer?

First off, if there's not a grounded (neutral) conductor in the box, you cannot connect this device.
Based on your description of the wiring, it's difficult to tell exactly how your current switch is wired. If you're not sure yourself how the current switch is wired, it might be best for you to contact a local licensed Electrician to install the switch for you. If you have a basic understanding of your wiring; and/or electrical wiring in general, the following information (which can be found in the instruction sheet that came with the device) should be helpful.
Single pole installation
If this is a single pole installation (only one switch controls the lights), then you'll only need to connect 4 of the 5 wires.

Black connects to the ungrounded (hot) conductor feeding the box.
White connects to the grounded (neutral) conductor feeding the box.
Green connects to the grounding conductors.
Red connects to the load (lights).
Yellow/Red is capped off and not used.

Leviton Instruction Sheet

3-Way wiring
This device is not compatible with standard 3- or 4-way switches. If you're going to use it in a 3- or 4-way setup, you'll have to purchase compatible vizia +™ on/off remotes.
3-way wiring with coordinating remote switch (VP0SR-10)
If you're pairing the timer with a coordinating remote switch, you'll wire it as follows.

Black connects to the ungrounded (hot) conductor feeding the box.
White connects to the grounded (neutral) conductor feeding the box.
Green connects to the grounding conductors.
Red connects to the load (lights).
Yellow/Red connects to the wire that will be connected to the yellow/red terminal of the remote switch.

Leviton Instruction Sheet

3-way wiring with matching remote switch (VP0SR-1L)
If you're pairing the timer with a matching remote switch, you'll wire it as follows.

Black connects to the ungrounded (hot) conductor feeding the box.
White connects to the grounded (neutral) conductor feeding the box.
Green connects to the grounding conductors.
Red connects to the load (lights).
Yellow/Red connects to the wire that will be connected to the yellow/red terminal of the remote switch.

Leviton Instruction Sheet


What would a calculation be for the weight bearing capacity of 6 x 2 studwork?

The "deck" is probably fine assuming you used joist hangers, blocking, and is less than 10x10. Attaching it to the structure should be minimum 5\8ths through bolts.

Follow this completely over blown code to eliminate any doubt. It is, however, for stuff you stand on, not climb.

http://www.cityofchicago.org/content/dam/city/depts/bldgs/general/Porch/Porch2011/RevPorch_Guide52611_Secured.pdf

I'd be worried about two things: pulling the whole thing off the wall and pulling off one of the campus boards, both solved with correct sized through bolts. Sounds like its solid as a rock, now you just have to make sure it doesn't come down. I think your landlord may be more concerned that it will fail from not being properly secured then any of the carpentry you built. For this you only need the specs from the fasteners used to secure it. Use 3\4in through bolts and washers where it attaches to the existing studs.

A grade 2, 3\4 bolt has a shear strength of about 10 tons.
https://nucor-fastener.com/Files/PDFs/TechDataSheets/TDS_013_Shear_Strength.pdf
You should check the pull-out strength of the other fasteners you used and throw those numbers at him, too.

What did you use the silicone for? "fixed at 3 points into 8mm thick steel column" with what? Picture please.


Do I need a vent fan in an interior laundry room?

No, this is not a code requirement for laundry rooms in dwelling units (at least in the 2012 IBC).

In fact, most dryers are essentially acting as exhaust fans when they run because they take air from the room and exhaust it outside.


Who should I call to look at clothes washer that fills with water after it has drained?

Call an appliance repairman.  Likely a check valve on the drain line has failed.


Kitchen sink half-wall against brick: which layer to drywall?

I  would do both ,foam insulation drywall, 2x4 , insulate ,drywall  Do not like the pipes on exterior wall drafts and  freeze up


Replacing interior wall sconce in old house - how to mount

In answer to your question and looking at this picture. I don't think so. You're probably better off doing as little as possible with the wiring in this house. Be very careful. The only thing that I see here that is younger than me (including the method of installation) are the yellow wire nuts and the black pigtail.


Bathroom addition with separate vent stack and new line

Allow me to recommend you call a licensed and reputable plumber to come and look at your house and make recommendations.  Surely you can find someone who for $150.00 will come and tell you what you can do.  You could go the sly route and request a quote, you could offer to pay for it, and then ask a lot of questions. Make sure to ask for and get, with your quote a simple drawing and piping lay out.  Good Luck.


How can I remove the interior side of a Kwikset handle set with "interconnect"?

The inside knobs are often removed on this type of product via a small slot or hole that will be visible at the stem of the knob. For a slot insert a small flat blade screwdriver in the slot and press in whilst pulling the knob away from the door.

If there is just a small hole insert a round pin or small sized allen wrench in the hole. Press in the pin and apply pulling pressure on the knob to remove.


Can I connect ground to my ungrounded porch?

Lighting branches didn't require grounds back then, so that probably explains why your closet was left ungrounded (I'm assuming there's no receptacles in there). My house was built in 1987 and I've fought a few ground battles on lighting circuits as well.

There should be no issue connecting your grounds. It's possible that your ground's continuity is broken somewhere else along the circuit that you're unaware of, but this would make you no worse off than you already are.

Once you connect your grounds, go back through and use a multimeter or a receptacle tester to verify the grounds are no longer open.

You can certainly use a wire nut, or some other acceptable means, to extend your short ground wire. This is called a pigtail and is quite common. If you do this, don't stop at a couple of inches-- go ahead and add enough so there is about 6" of ground wire as measured from where it enters the box, or where there is at least 3" extending past the edge of the box.


Tacky Danish oil surface on stained Tasmanian Oak

A 4-inch wide razor scraper might remove much of the dried oil. Hold it lightly and at a small angle to the surface. But you will have to be careful to avoid letting a corner of the scraper dig into the wood.


How do I reinforce an old mortise and tenon joint?

The key to a mortise and tennon joint is the glue surface.  Often, in a manufacturing environment, when the joint is assembled, they will shoot a nail into to hold the joint until the glue dries instead of putting it into a clamp and waiting for it to dry.  This speeds up production and takes up less space.  There is nothing wrong with that method, but it means the nails really don't do much except get in your way taking it apart.

You can try forcing some glue, like the type you described, into the joint and see if that holds.  You can even get glue injection syringes from most woodworking stores.

Ideally, you want to get a good tight glue joint, preferably clamped under pressure.  The joints on a chair tend to flex over the years and this causes them to compress and wear and become loose.  If you really want to get these back together tight, you will want to carefully remove the nails and pull the joints apart.  Scrape off any roughness and take them down to bare wood but be careful not to take off any excess material that will make them more loose than they already are.  If they are pretty tight, a filler glue will do the trick.  If they wiggle a lot, you may need to insert a thin piece of wood to fill the gaps, like a slice of veneer and clamp the joint.  Be sure to apply glue to all surfaces.  If you have to lightly tap it with a hammer to get the joint tightly together, you are on the right track.  You can also put a small wedge into the back of the tennon to force it to expand and apply pressure to the mortise, but you have to be careful not to completely crack the wood beyond the tennon.


Are licensed "builders" required to pull permits

Can a licensed contractor perform work, that requires a permit, without a permit?

If the work requires a permit - that is a City / State Ordinance [aka LAW]- the answer is while the contractor could perform the work - it is a violation of the Ordinance.
It is possible that the contractor might have it in fine print where it requires you to get the permits. They do the work "assuming" you have the permit or are in process. You can check to see if they really are licensed - I doubt a licensed contractor would do anything with out the permits.

This presents two problems:

If you are found out to have done this work with out a permit you
are probably going to be required to undo the work.
The other issue you have is in selling the property - changes to the
property can be looked into and a buyer or a buyers inspector can
check for permits on the property.

a: In this case you would need to get it permitted in order to sell the property, which winds you back to the possibility of undoing the work at your expense of course.

The Contractor probably requires you to get permitting - somewhere in the fine print so they can cover themselves. In the end you will be out the money you pay to the contractor and possibly more to have it all undone.

Get a contractor who will get the required permits, ask for the variance as it is an existing basement - you just might get it unless you are intending to make the ceiling height lower in your remodel.
 I assume you are going to put in rooms of some sort or a entertainment space.

if you are turned down , you are turned down; permitting is not expensive - undoing completed work is.


Can I connect the neutral wire ends via a single switch terminal (without a pigtail)?

"Never" is a bit strong.
This is not a plain "screw terminal" where that would be true. This is a "screw and clamp" and appears to be designed to correctly hold 2 wires, so you are good. That extra bit of brass between the screw-head and the back plate is what makes the difference, along with the two grooves to hold wires in place.


What are the pros and cons of adding a skylight?

The only advantages of a skylight are natural lighting and maybe a small amount of heating in the winter months. Skylights are expensive and create leaks and moisture issues. With all of the modern options available for LED, you could have a well lit area without all of the headaches related to a skylight. The front end costs of LED can be expensive, but the long term savings is well worth it.


Accessing Upper Shelves of 8 feet high pantry

I mean what you are talking about is a sliding ladder - picture below.
I worked in a french bistro in the 90s that had one for storage.   This is basically the only thing that will get that high and deep along a long width.   If done right it would be "cool as sh!t".   If done wrong it would be an eye sore and in the way.   Another part of this is how big your kitchen is.   A humungous kitchen could support this.   A large kitchen that had just one wall that needed it could do it especially if there was a nook to fold it away.


How do I keep my Christmas tree from falling over?

Get a heavy stand

Growing up, my dad had a traditional stand that looks something like this:

That works for smaller trees as long as you can be sure that nobody (such as a child or pet) will disturb it.  That's not at all a given.  Remember that trees have extensive root systems that keep them grounded during windy periods and so it's important to get a stand that can simulate the parts of the tree that have been cut off.  For that reason, I'm a proponent of a heavier stand such as this one made of cast iron:

There's something to be said for the simplicity of a really heavy, wide stand that will hold your tree firmly in place.  I've been told plastic stands are sturdier than they look when they are weighted with water.  They have the additional advantage of holding a gallon of water or more, which means you won't risk a dried out tree.  In some ways it doesn't matter what the stand looks like since you can always cover it with a tree skirt.  (And my wife insists on it even though I like the way our stand looks.)

Placing the tree in the stand

One thing I've tried is to set the tree up before removing the twine that holds the branches in place.  This is a mistake for two reasons:

The balance of the tree changes when the branches are fully deployed.  A tree that stands straight when wrapped can sometimes end up leaning when unwrapped.
My wife always wants me to rotate the tree so that the best side is facing into the room.  Once the tree is secure, you don't want to mess with the balance by trying to move or rotate it.

For the sake of getting a good balance, I also think it's a mistake to attach the stand before putting the tree upright.  Or rather, you're going to need to readjust it anyway and it probably won't buy you anything—especially if you have a heavy stand.

Attaching the tree to the stand

Here's where my stand fails me.  It attaches to the tree with three screws.  Three is the absolute minimum number of points need to hold a trunk in place and it doesn't seem to be enough.  If I try to adjust one side, the tree starts falling over and I need help holding it up.  (My father's stand had the same problem, but image searches show most of the traditional design have 4 screws plus a ring to hold the truck more securely.)

This year I hit on a solution that's so simple I can't figure out how it didn't occur to me before: I put 2x4 scraps between the screws and the trunk.  This has the advantage of spreading the side pressure to a larger area and also makes adjustments easier since the bolts don't screw into the trunk itself.  For added security, I packing in extra scraps of wood to brace the tree now that I have it secured to the stand.

Looking around, I see that newer designs use two levels of screws or even "hug" the trunk with a pedal operated cable.  I don't have any experience with these designs, but if the stand is heavy enough (see above) they are probably improvements over the three-screw stand that I'm using.

Consider a guyline

Here in California, we are encouraged to secure everything in case of earthquake.  Given the excitement of the season, I like to secure our tree in case of childquake.  It's a bit of a hassle, but in years past, I've been glad to have a bit of safety from tree fall when its balance shifted due to watering and decorations.  It need not be an eyesore either—the line might be secured to a hook in the wall behind the tree.

I've used monofilament fishing line to attach our tree to a hook in the ceiling.  Since the fishing line is designed to be invisible (or close to it) in water, most people won't see it.  A bonus advantage is that you know what your line is rated and can estimate how many strands will suffice.  If you do fish in the summer, its a good idea to replace your line between fishing seasons to avoid tangles, so this is a perfect opportunity.


Yes, 120V and 240V can cohabitate.  Both of those are classified as Class 1 circuits.  The highest voltage present in the box will be 240V, and with any normal wiring (NM, THHN in conduit, MC, etc.) all the wiring will have insulation rated well above that voltage.

However, depending on the plug on your charger, it may not fit in half a 2-gang.


What preparation of the substrate needs to be done after removing a tile and prior to installing the new tile

I think your "slurry mix" is a floor leveler? Is that corect? Your pouring a slurry to level the floor. That would be the correct procedure to prepare a rough surface for tile
After it hardens tile installation can begin. You want to use a thin set adhesive to bond the tile to the surface. Thin set is mixed with water and /or an acrylic admixture (for resiliency) than troweled (notched). Tiles are pressed and set accordingly. Wipe away any squeezed-out thin set with a damp sponge.
When troweling grout into joints do so at a 45 degree angle to the
tile joint. work 3' x 3' areas (or whatever is comfortable). Wait for the grout to stiffen or when you wipe a moistened sponge across the grout joint it stays in place. Rinse frequently and wipe gently.
When you see a haze develop on the tile surface you need to wipe it with a dry rag or cheese cloth. Don't let it sit or it will be a real problem to remove.
That's the short answer on tile installation. It's more difficult than it looks and is best to have someone who's knowledgeable with installing it to be present.


A screw driver tip that won't hurt painted screws?

In researching your question I came across several jeweller sites that claim that with proper technique you should be able to remove the screws without damage.

However I found this unsatisfactory, so I dug deeper, and the answer is yes, there exists nylon bladed screw drivers


Is a ledger board required if the side of my house is wood?

Wood siding on a house is there for weather protection and looks, it has little structural strength. The ledger board is used to connect the patio cover beams to the internal structural members of the house walls for strength against wind shear forces and (possibly) snow loads that will want to pull your cover away from the house, spreading that force across as many internal structural members (studs) as possible. If you just attach the beams directly to the studs, you are attaching only to one stud and essentially concentrating the mechanical forces onto fewer points, increasing the stresses they will see. If they fail, it becomes major damage to your house walls.


mice and sound traveling through brick party wall joist pockets

The right way to do that would be to use metal flashing, fabricated to go around the joists and abut the pockets. Fill the spaces with metal screen or coarse steel wool (to discourage rodent teeth), followed by the foam for sound deadening, then seal it up with the metal flashing, bent to go flush against the brick and nailed into the joists.


How to wire an Air Conditioner from the disconnect when exposed to physical damage?

I assume you mean AC Condenser Unit : You can run EMT to the unit - typically a flex conduit cable is used (almost all installations I have seen use a flex conduit) but you can use emt if you like.

From your LINK   356.10 Uses Permitted:

  Where flexibility is required for installation, operation, or
  maintenance.

Use the Flexible Conduit to attach your condenser, connect your motor - use a strain relief on the physical wires and wire ties as well to limit the vibration of the wires.


Are floor joists allowed by code to be notched at the ends?

The stress on a joist reduces substantially near the ends. For this reason it's often the case that engineered joists have a narrower (shorter) bearing point. Take top-hang truss-joists, for example:

Image source

Another example is the typical rafter truss. Obviously those are very small at the ends.

Whether your situation meets any sort of code is somewhat irrelevant. It's a 1940s home, after all. The bigger question is whether it works, and apparently it does. The joist is larger than the others probably because it has a wider spacing due to the chimney, or because it carries some additional load.

If you're concerned about passing inspection, have a conversation with your inspector. (S)he will specify whether replacing like-with-like is adequate, or whether you'll be required to get an engineer to sign off on a modern approach.


Can a 10' high wall be built with 2x4's in Ontario?

The national building code of Canada specify's exterior walls must be framed with 2x6 or 2x8. Interior non load bearing may be framed with 2x4.
I hope this helps.

https://www.saskatoon.ca/sites/default/files/documents/community-services/building-standards/tall_walls.pdf


Replacement motion detector light only works with neutral connected to ground

it turned out to be a loose neutral in a junction box. the second problem was they ran 12/4 from the switch box to the junction box and used the red wire as the second hot wire I'm guessing to save money and be cheap and this was done during construction so that made isolating and troubleshooting it more difficult.


Your friend gave you good advice. Breakers are sized by the smallest wire in the circuit. Since you added 14/2 to the circuit, a 15 AMP breaker is the maximum allowed. Replacing the receptacle was needed too. The 14/2 you installed is fine since you replaced the breaker.


Drilling into wall opposite an ADT control panel — voltage detector going crazy, is this a no-go?

If that ADT control panel is recessed into the wall between two studs then you will likely need to avoid drilling anywhere behind it from the other side of that wall. I would leave a working margin of an additional 3 to 4 inches along the sides and tops.


Nope.

The manual makes no mention of having to remove transfer bolts, if the techs want to make a stink about there being bolts and you didn't remove them: no way! Not even if they do exist.

It's probably a penny. I'm unsure, but if the problem is user created this service call might cost you money even if it's under warranty. They might claim you, "put things other than laundry", in it but I'd expect better from Bosch and would hope their warranty extends past manufacturer defects.

I've never come across TBs on a non-combo unit. It shouldn't need them; there's no spring mountings, it's all bearing surfaces.


The top A/C drain in my attic is leaking. Why?

On many air handlers, there are two drain outlets.  The lower drain hole is the "regular" drain that is typically hooked into the house's drain pipes somewhere.  You don't see it working - it just silently drains out the condensate water.

The upper hole is an overflow.  It's normally routed to a pipe that will drain out of the eaves of the house or another visible location.  When you see this dripping, you know the main drain is clogged.  This secondary drain can also be fitted with a switch that cuts power to the A/C so the overflowing drain doesn't damage anything.

So, the answer is that the lower, normal drain is clogged, probably with some mold/mildew that collects on the side of the pipe.  If the water is flowing at all, bleach or a mild drain cleaner can be used to try and break it loose.  If there is no water flow, compressed air into the pipe (carefully) can be a good option.


Is it okay to plug a surge protector strip into a surge suppressing power outlet?

The "don't put a surge protector on a surge protector" rule is not about the surge protection, it is about overloading circuits and tripping over wires - which really doesn't apply here. I would treat the installed receptacles as "ordinary" and use a surge protector (of known quality) to add more receptacles.


How should I wire for two side-by-side refrigerators?

Ever seen a refrigerator plug?
They have a 90 degree molding on them so they are flush with the wall.  The bend is generally downward (not sideways) to the plug pins.  Plugged into the upper socket, they will block the lower socket.
So 2 fridges on 1 recep is Right Out. You'll need two receptacles.
We had a question a couple months ago from someone who did not realize this until the refrigerators arrived, drywall/paint was done. They had the good sense not to use extension cords, but it was a serious vexation... "extend with Wiremold surface conduit" was our best answer.
Separate circuits if possible
You are contemplating a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit or MWBC.  That requires a 2-pole breaker, or two 1-pole breakers with a handle-tie (which are hard to find, easier and cheaper to use a 2-pole breaker).   So clearly, you have 2 breaker spaces available for this.
The problem is, this creates a situation where one fridge's problem can take out the other fully functioning fridge.  Ask your partner how much food spoilage that would be.  A lot.
We don't like AFCI or GFCI on refrigerators because of the chance of a nuisance trip causing food spoilage.  The problem with MWBC is if one leg trips, most likely, so will the other leg due to the handle-tie.  (2-pole breakers have a feature called "common trip" which guarantees this). And if you put both fridges on the same simple circuit, same problem again.
So my advice is 2 dedicated circuits, 1 per fridge.  The most costly thing is establishing a wire-able route between panel and outlet... once you've done that, 2 cables vs 1 is no trouble at all.  Throw two 12/2's in there, done.  The second most costly thing is spaces in the panel, but you have those.  Throw the two 12/2's on separate breakers, and you're all set.
"Oh I know! I just won't handle-tie a MWBC going into a single junction box. What could possibly go wrong???" The answer is a maintainer getting nailed because they did not realize the neutral was a live wire.  Happens all the time.