Wiring for shop: 240V with light switch on same circuit?

I gather your electrical experience comes out of low voltage DC?

1. 2-wire FMC.

Flexible metal conduit doesn't have any wires in it. You surely mean AC cable or something like that.  What's more, since you're talking about neutral wires left floating in the wind, I gather you are using two cables for the same circuit.  You are never allowed to do that.  All related conductors must be in the same one cable or conduit.  If you have complex wiring needs you need to use conduit, but what you are trying to do should be workable with /2 or /3 cable.

If your apprehension is that you think you are not allowed to use a white wire for "hot"... in cable you are allowed to re-mark a white wire black* at both ends and use it as a "hot".  Obviously you no longer have a neutral at that point.  But you may not need one.

So your answer is to use ONE armored/metal clad cable, and re-task the white wire to be the 2nd hot.

"But I want to run 2 circuits and get 240V out of them" -> That is called a multi-wire branch circuit and is one circuit in one cable with one neutral.

2a. Hooking up the lights (the easy way)

Eliminate one of the two metal clad cables.  (by which I mean, task it for a totally different and unrelated circuit).

The white wire on the lights should be remarked black.*  It should then be conected to the red wire on the recep.

This will deliver 240V to the light, but the vast majority of modern lights are multi-voltage 120V-240V.  If you do not have a light like that, get one!

2b. Hooking up the lights (the hard way)

Eliminate both existing cables.

Replace the cables with a single /3 cable (black white red in the cable).  Wire it as normal, except land the neutral on the neutral bar (or GFCI breaker if it's one of those; remembering NEC 2020 once adopted will require GFCI on 240V receps, and it's already adopted in MA with several more states coming July 1).

Now, you wire it as you have drawn it, except the one white wire goes to the white wire for the light.

3. Kirchhoff's Law.

Kirchhoff made the stupid mistake of using a duplex breaker to feed a multi-wire branch circuit.  As a result, both AC sources are in-phase with each other.  Both are "high" at the same time, and there is zero volts between them.

So of course the 240V loads completely failed.  Not only that, Kirchhoff's 120V loads are overloading the neutral wire.  You can laugh when Kirchhoff's house burns down.

Seriously, that simulator sucks. I gather it's made for electronics, not real mains electrical.

Assuming the simulator is capable of this, it would probably be better to draw the AC source as a single 240V center-tap transformer.  Which is what it is actually.

See also the way you drew neutral with a ground symbol.  Ground never handles current except during fault conditions. The return path is the neutral which is individually wired and not a backplane.  It handles only its own circuit's return current, no sharing.

Ground is a backplane.

* Feel free to use brown, red, orange, yellow, pink, blue or purple tape instead.  You cannot use gray, white or green as those are reserved for neutral, neutral and ground respectively.


Hardwood floor - how to avoid different levels between rooms

Was the plywood and 1x6 both on top of the subfloor?  If this is the case and the subfloor is solid and at least 3/4" I don't see why not. Just make sure to resecure and replace any damaged areas cause this can cause squeaking and affect the performance of the finished product. Remember to let the wood acclimate 4 to 7 days before installing. Use a moisture barrier and leave the proper expansion gap around perimeter and fixed objects.


How long does concrete dust take to settle

Concrete dust becomes air-bourn when it is pulverized (due to tool use: drilling, sawing, hammering, etc.). The fine silt concrete dust is thrown into the surrounding air by electric tool motor fans or other air currents. The particulate is so small and light-weight any slight breeze will distribute it until it finally sinks and lands on a surface.   Where, when, and how long will depend on too many extenuating circumstances to even guess at. The best way to deal with any dust becoming air-born is to stop it before it happens. I've found a shop-vac held just above the concrete surface that is being worked on does a smashing right good job at eliminating dust.


If i'm understanding you correctly, you have a light that has a power source coming directly into it.  From there, two wires go down to the switch (Black is power to the switch, and White is the power back up to the light.)  You have some outlets that come from the light junction box and want to remove one of them.  You want to add a second switch so that you can control a fan that you want to add to the light.

From this, it sounds like it is very possible.  It sounds like you just need one more wire from the switch(s) location back up to the light/fan.  You would use the power from the first switch to jumper over and feed the second switch.

Edit

In order to avoid having two power feeds coming into the same switch box, i suggest taking the cable that goes to the laundry outlet, and put it into the switch box.  This will gain the neutral as you mentioned and as gregmac mentioned about 404.2(c) requiring a neutral in the switch box.  So at this point you have two power feeds in your switch box.  Then go to the light fixture and disconnect the power feed that goes from the light directly to the switch box (black wire i believe).

Now you will have your power and neutral in one cable (from the laundry outlet) and then you will have a cable with one wire (white) acting as the switch-leg going back up to the light, and the other wire unused (black).


What is the minimum amount of equipment required to "stub" for a whole house generator?

When I hear "minimum" I think "trying to save money".

Do you really, seriously, plan to buy a large 50 KVA generator with an aim toward powering the whole house so you can have life as normal (except for the insufferable roar 24x7 of the machine?)  Will this run on natural gas or many trips to the gas station for this thirsty beast?  Reason I ask is if you only plan to use a smaller generator to power important loads, this all gets a lot easier.

In this case, you install a main panel in the normal way.  Then you run a large, say 100A**, circuit to a generator interlock, then to a subpanel, then you punch down all your generator-desired loads into the subpanel.  It can be quite a large subpanel, in fact we recommend that.  (Don't be the guy who counts circuits to figure the smallest panel to get, that saves very little money and adds a lot of cost later.)

A lot of subpanels can be their own generator interlocks.  That makes things cheaper still.

For instance you could even have two interlocked subpanels 100A** each, at sane cost, and simply put every load them with none on the main panel (except loads that would be completely insane to put on generator, such as a Chevy Volt charger.) If you had a 50KVA generator, you could power both!

So it really is a matter of pricing the different options.

** speaking of pricing, you might also consider 70A.  70A breakers are much cheaper than 100s, and remember, you need 3 of them per subpanel.   By the way, the subpanel can be larger than the breaker, so for instance a 70A breaker can feed a 225A subpanel.  You'd do that to get more spaces.  Spaces are very good, and cheaping out on spaces is a bad idea.


How do I stop the black sludge coming from our bathroom faucets?

Have the water lab tested for bacterial content at your water source and at the faucets where the sludge is dripping out. E. Coli means your water source is contaminated.

If you're running PEX, black bioslime in certain brands is a known issue.

Flush with Hydrogen Peroxide as Chlorine does absolutely nothing to the bioslime.

Also, high magnesium content can cause black staining, but not the goo.

Another thing to check for is bacteria contaminated sediment filters if you have them. If this has happened you will need to remove the filter elements and attempt to clear the systemic infection.

In the case of a biofilm contamination event, it's a multi step process to clear the biofilm. Completely empty the water system, blow out with air, allow to dry to break down the biofilm. Flush with Hydrogen Peroxide then Phosphoric acid. Flush with a detergent to wash the biofilm residue out. Flush with a Hypoclorite solution. Flush with clean water. Test for bacteria.


I installed this same surge protector in my 50-year-old GE panel with a 50 A double pole compact breaker (1 inch wide).*
Note that this must be installed astride two slots to get both legs. The breaker and the panel together have a mechanical incompatibility preventing it from snapping into a single slot.
This means the compact two pole breaker cannot be installed at the very top, but must be shifted 1/2 slot (1/2 inch) down. I don't think this reduces performance since this device is in parallel with all the other breakers in the panel. You can put in a 1/2 inch breaker in the half slot above and that circuit would still be protected.
If you would install a full size 2 inch wide 2 pole breaker I think it could be installed at the top, but then it would occupy twice as much space in the panel.
You do not need heavy wires to connect this surge protector, just use the leads that are attached to the case of the surge protector.
*I  think I used a GE THQP250.
EDIT My experience is limited to my very old panel. Pay attention to the statements of others about where the 2-pole 50 A breaker will fit. If there is resistance, stop and try another pair of slots. I do not think the breaker for the surge protector needs to be at the top.


What type of lubricant should be used on PVC windows, and how often should it be applied?

Quality sliding PVC windows use rollers. Keep the tracks clean, using a slightly damp lint-free cloth. The rollers take care of themselves.

On cheap PVC sliders, I use paste wax after cleaning the slot with a slightly damp lint-free cloth.

You can also use spray silicone. Clean the track with a slightly damp lint-free cloth. Spray the silicone on another lint-free cloth and wipe the track down.

Don't use any petroleum lubricants on PVC if you want it to last.


Should Ground and Either Neutral or Hot be Lighting Circuit Testing?

Because Black = hot and White = neutral is not actually a hard and fast rule in household wiring. You are probably looking at a switch loop - no longer approved for new installs, but approved recently enough to be quite common. The white wire that's hot SHOULD be marked in some way to indicate that, but often is not, or the marking was impermanent. Red tape or paint or black tape on white wire are common methods of marking a white as not being Neutral.


What does "Temporary Hold" mean on a BG&E thermostat

There may be a way for BGE to disable the ac compressor but that is normally a special radio controlled switch outside. It is also unlikely that they would have done that on a day like today. So there is almost certainly something wrong with your ac unit. First step is to check outside for anything blocking the compressor - leaves etc. Beyond that I don't know - for me it would be time to call the hvac guy.

But the temporary hold is easy. On many thermostats if you override the temperature it is a temporary change until the next programmed change kicks in at a preset time. There is usually a way to do a more permanent hold with another button.

FYI, the reason you couldn't get info from BGE is they're not in the thermostat business. They're in the energy business and peak demand is their biggest concern because it affects profitability. One way they try to lower peak demand is by getting residential users to use automatic setback thermostats to lower ac usage during the day for people who are all out to work or school. The easiest way to do that is by giving away thermostats for free. And if you're a utility doing thousands at a time you can get them private labeled. But they're not really made by bge.


More than likely the tank is filling the bowl above the bowl's fill level, and the bowl drains slowly until it's level with the top of the trap (or siphon).

Unless it's completely draining, there's really nothing to worry about.


Where is the make up air for the boiler?
I think I see a vent to the top left but it appears blocked. If that is a fresh air inlet and it is blocked I hope your last will and testament is in order!
I lost a friend to carbon monoxide poisoning years back it is nothing to mess with. Your system needs fresh air for the CO to escape with no fresh air it escapes into the living space.
The fact that it is detected on another floor means it is an IMMEDIATE  HAZARD !
Make sure there is fresh air this is probably the issue. The small amount of cold air being drawn in by your boiler having to be heated is nothing compared to cost of a casket, no I am not kidding!


How to touch up surface painted with airless sprayer

28 years of experience as a painter .. what works best is a light sanding and then a very light dusting of the enamel spray paint .  May require 2 light coats ..  it is tricky and you will have to be very light handed with this so you don't create a noticeable " patched "area.  Good Luck!


Red wire in ceiling box: traveler or smoke alarm interconnect?

I was able to come up with two approaches

This requires a 9V battery, a wire-leads 9V battery snap (like one you'd find in an old transistor radio or such), and your smoke alarms to have battery backup.

First, turn off the breaker.  Then, take a 9V battery snap and wire it red on snap to red wire and black on snap to white wire, then snap a 9V battery in.  If it's the interconnect wire, your smoke detectors should start going off like crazy as soon as you snap the battery in.  If it's a traveller, or your smoke alarms don't have a battery backup, nothing will happen.  Just remember to disconnect the battery snap before turning the breaker back on!

This requires a multimeter and that your smoke alarms have a TEST button that sets off the whole shebang, or some of that "canned smoke" used for smoke alarm testing.

Have a helper trigger the detectors with either the TEST button or the canned smoke while you measure the DC voltage from red to white -- if it's the interconnect wire, you should see 9V DC there while the alarms are going off.


Switches (only) can ground through the mounting screws

No need to run a ground wire to the switch.  Presuming the switch has a metal yoke, it will ground via the grounding screws to the metal box (presuming it is grounded).

Is it grounded?

It's difficult to say whether the box is grounded. In 1960 all the boxes were metal, so that alone doesn't tell us anything.  Merely being a metal box doesn't ground it; there'd need to be a wire or metal pipe (conduit) back to the panel.

However, you probably know cables come in black, white and optional red (and you're forced to use those colors for everything, which is not fun).  I see no black and I do see blue.

Anytime you see nonstandard colors like that, you have to investigate whether this is an individual wires in conduit situation.  If you see pipes entering the boxes with different numbers and combinations of wires in every pipe, that's conduit.  Using different hot wire colors for different circuits, is also a common practice.

Conduit in 1960 was made of metal, such as EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing).  If it's not flexible (and maybe if it is), metal conduit is a valid ground path in North America.

The proof of the pudding is in the eating; if a test light shows 120V from hot to ground, it's probably grounded.

Grounding receptacles: Heed what NoSparksPlease says!

Pay close attention to what NoSparksPlease says!  Now, if the junction boxes are indeed grounded (e.g. via metal conduit as discussed above), here's how you can ground receps.  #1: Run a wire to a ground clip or screw (often there's a hole tapped for a #10-32 screw in the back of the steel box).  Or #2:  Remember how I said you can ground the switch through the mounting screws? You can't do that with receptacles UNLESS:

If the receptacle's yoke (what the screw goes through) has hard face-on-face contact with the steel box, that is an acceptable grounding path.  No rust. No paint. No little paper square that captures the screw. Of course now, you'll drop the screws, so buy spares (they're #6-32), but for another reason also:

With conduit, sometimes the screw will get hard to turn when it's 3/4 of the way down. This is the screw hitting the conduit pipe.  Stop; you'll strip the hole out. Either cut the screw using the screw shear on your multi-tool (that's what that's for). Or just buy 1/2" #6-32 screws at the hardware store.


Water/antifreeze radiator cooled work shop

There are air conditioners using sea water, rather than a heat pump, but that works because ocean water is usually well below 10° C (50° F). Using a canal would be less corrosive, but you'd need a heat-pump to get useful cooling. Some examples of air conditioners using sea water to cool the condenser are at Flagship Marine.

That said, you'd need to check local regulations for use of the canal water.

As has been mentioned, though, making the workshop fairly air-tight and well insulated is necessary before you install air conditioning, or you're pouring money for the air conditioner and the electricity to operate it out the window.

Solar panels on the hot tin roof would help to shade the building and run the AC, too.


Hmmm a picture might help but here is what I think you have...

The second black wire that also attaches to the switch on the right is the hot feed to the two switches.

The other wires that come from these switches (black and red) feeds their respective light fixtures.

The unattached white wires that are just capped are neutral wires (return wires from the light fixtures to complete the circuits) they should be left as-is.

If you have a no contact voltage tester it should glow close to the wire that is the hot feed from the panel. The one that previously fed the left switch. Be careful while checking things with the power on. Leave them capped for this test.

The hot wire goes to one switch and a jumper is added to the other switch so both switches have a hot feed. Then each switch has a wire going to their respective light fixtures. One of them is apparently black and the other red.

Hopefully this clarifies it a little for you.


Can a bathroom outlet be wired to a GFCI in another bathroom

From the National Electrical Code

210.11(C)(3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply bathroom receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits shall have no other outlets.
Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).

So, you can supply multiple bathrooms with this circuit as long as it has no other equipment or outlets on the circuit except receptacles.
The kitchen receptacle fed downstream off of another GFCI receptacle is a waste of a good GFCI as Ed Beal said but is not a violation of the code.


Maximum PSI for cleaning outside vinyl siding?

Do NOT use a pressure washer on vinyl in below freezing temps. This is just asking to shatter the plastic, especially if it has had some exposure to the sun. That will make it more brittle. You don't need to clean the siding so often that you need to do this in the winter anyway. A hose has always been sufficient to clean siding for us, once a year in the summer.


I want to install a motion sensor for the stairwell

Need some more info:
What are you trying to do? I mean, if you want the 3-ways to control on and off as they do now, and have the motions apply lights regardless of the 3-ways being on or off.
Can you add wiring, or are you intending to try and do this using only existing boxes and wiring?
There are probably several configurations of function possible.
Also, I know the code requires ability to turn lights on from any access/entry point in a stairwell; as far as I know it does not require ability to keep it off...
(so combining 3-way control and motion control is ok AFAIK)
[I do not know this for sure].
What I assume that you want to do, would require at least one additional conductor, and probably 2, possibly 3, depending on existing wire routing, and if 2 or 3 wire motion sensors. (and require 2 motion detectors, standard kind - single pole).
Frankly, I did not understand your sensor that can use one 3-way; a 3-way would not function alone.  I would need details on that to understand what it is, or does.
{there are code implications, depending on what that actually does, or if it has a manual 3-way function incorporated).
Mr K L
OOPS, I'm new here.  I should have posted this as a 'comment', as it is not an 'answer' yet...
I will try to move it.
-- Huh, I can't move it until I have '50' reputation; but it lets me post incomplete 'answers'; oh well...


Well pump runs constantly; Pressure tank doesn't fill

Allowing for the possibility that it could be otherwise as diagnosis via internet is imperfect....

I see both a pump problem and a check valve problem here. While they may be located in the same place (if your only check valve is on the pump - which is the way mine is set up) they are not the same thing...though I also see another possibility that would do both.

Pump problem - pressure not getting above 27 PSI, or 15 with a faucet open.
Check valve problem - when you shut off the pump the pressure drops
to zero - unless you are using water, the pressure should stay at 27 if it was pumped up to 27. When you only had 10 PSI in the tank, there should have been some water storage - when raised to 38, no water could possibly make it into the tank, since that's designed for 40/60 PSI operation and won't take any water until the the water is over 38 PSI.

The third possibility - you have a leak in the pipe above the pump and check valve - so the pressure is limited, and the water drains away from the leak without the check valve being to blame. If you can go and listen at the top of the well while someone else turns the pump on, you might actually hear this leak, if its in the well above waterline. Or you might have a recently soggy spot in the yard if it's after the pipe leaves the well.

While I don't think it's to blame in this problem, I'd also suggest rechecking your tank pre-charge to see if it has stayed at 38 PSI or started to fall again. Often when the precharge becomes low it's not simply a matter of needing to add air - it's a failure in the bladder or diaphragm.


What size wire should I use for a 60amp subpanel?

6AWG copper wire would be the minimum for a 60A subpanel but with a 105ft distance you have too much voltage drop and need to go up to 4AWG copper to keep the voltage drop within acceptable limits (usually 5%).


What should I do about cracks in the cement pan for a roll-in shower?

Unfortunately, your real problem here actually isn't that you have cracks in the cement; it's that your cement has developed several cracks in 2 days. They are a symptom indicating that the cement is weak (typically because it was not mixed correctly; most often, it's too wet). Nothing you do to repair the cracks will fix that weakness.

The right thing to do in this case would be to take the cement out and start over.


How do I identify brand/type of bathtub faucet?

When I needed to replace valve stems in my bathtub faucet, there was a logo on the cleanout/overflow cover.  I took a picture of that with me to the plumbing supply store.  They recognized the logo and could match up the stem in a few minutes.


Noting that the new one includes fan speed control and the old one does not, I'm going to say you bought the wrong model of thermostat.

Motor speed control isn't something that can usually just be added by changing the thermostat.  It would require specific wiring and motor change in the air conditioner.

Completely disassemble the old thermostat, and examine the circuit board to get its model number and order using that.


Outlet tester shows "open ground" on GFCI outlet

You are correct, GFCI receptacles can be used to replace old 2-prong receptacles when there's no grounding conductor.   If your home is old enough, you might assume that there is no ground at the receptacle.  However, if you want to know for sure, you'll have to inspect the wiring inside the box.

A properly functioning GFCI receptacle, can provide ground-fault protection without a grounding conductor.  So as long as you're not plugging in high-end audio/video equipment (or anything that requires surge protection), you're probably okay.

As @Harper mentions. Press the Test button on the GFCI, and make sure it trips and resets properly.  Repeat this test every month, as these are likely not GFCIs that self test.


making converted attic into full height (roof tear off)

There are lots of questions, I'm not sure if I got them all

1: your first level studs will be fine. It's good practice to align joists and 2nd level studs over the first level but is usually not necessary

2: There will be block that will need to be installed between the floor joists and the floor sheathing will be nailed over that. This is installed for several reasons including for a load path between the floors for the lateral forces, and to stop the joists from 'rolling' over. There is no requirement that the blocking be at the exterior face of the wall, and in this case I would put it at the interior face so that more of the floor joist depth is engaged to resist the rolling

3: there should be no cutting to fit the bottom plate. The second level sheathing is placed over the joists and blocking to the exterior face of the exterior wall studs. Your wall is built in this 'deck' just as your first level walls

Other items to consider:

you might have height restrictions which will not allow you to do this remodel
you will need to decide how to deal with the new upper walls and the brick below. Brick is heavy, and while your foundation may be adequate for the upper level, it might not be for another level of brick
For a change such as this, there will be a requirement to bring your lateral system up to code. This may, and is likely, to require work in the first level walls. Which means, opening them up...


Newly installed Metal Electrical Panel door will not open easily?

That is a "NEMA 3R" enclosure, meaning it is rated to be used outdoors. The door for those often have a "trick" to opening them because they are designed to keep rain out even when open, so there is a "drip lip" over the door. That sometimes requires that after you unlatch it, you must lift the door up from the bottom a little bit to get it off the catch, then let it drop down so that it will get clear of the lip and allow it to swing open.

If it's not that, then all he probably needs to do is shim the back of it. It appears as though he removed something else to put this in, and the wall behind it may be uneven. having to shim the back of the new panel is very common, the sheet metal is thin so any unevenness in the surface warps the box into a parallelogram. It can often just be done by putting washers on one or more of the mounting screws, BETWEEN the wall and the back of the panel.


Can I use my old service panel as a sub-panel when I install a new one?

Yes, you can do that. You will need to remove the nuetral->ground bonding screw from the subpanel. The new panel should have its neutral to ground bonded (unless that is already done at the power meter). You'll need to install a 100 A circuit breaker in the new panel (or higher, if the subpanel and wire are rated for the higher current) to feed the subpanel. You'll also need to make sure that you have a separate neutral and ground wire running from the main to the subpanel.


my toilet water level goes down when my neighbor flushes her toilet

What's happening is that when they flush, it is creating a vacuum and sucking the water out of your bowl in an attempt to get air. The vent stack is almost certainly obstructed above your toilet's tie-in.

As far as what to do... you are in a condo, there should be owner's association that handles shared infrastructure. If not, find out what is blocking the vent stack and remove it.


Can I drywall over a skylight without removing it?

You could extend the wall up into the skylite cavity but still keep it open and light both rooms...


Installing grounding rods...without hitting something critical?

Yes: call Dig-Safe , assuming you're in the USA.  The number is 811 , at least in the states I checked very briefly.

That will take care of gas & electric and I believe water lines.  Tracing the sewer line, if not covered by Dig-Safe, should be pretty easy as it's almost always a straight run from wherever the pipe leaves your house to the street.


what is burning smell off a new power strip?

Defective power strip.  Return it to the store and demand a replacement, before it causes a fire.


Removing white layer which appears on floor after spilling water

Assuming it is indeed laminate flooring.

To take the stain out:
Toothpaste lightly rubbed on the stain is often suggested. Another one  is vinegar mixed with a bit of olive oil.

If the stain does not come out - Using Tea to Mask White Stains on Laminate Flooring.

Take two tea bags, put in a cup, just about cover them with boiling water, leave it to cool, then put the liquid on the white marks on the laminate flooring. Just rub in gently with your fingers, leave for about half an hour, then remove some of the liquid with a tissue to check the result. The liquid (tea, which has tannin in - the colour agent) will have started to dry out. If the white mark is still evident leave for another 15 mins, then just wipe the area clean with a soft damp cloth. This worked for my laminate floor and it is now fully restored.


Cleaning Up Matted Down Foliage In Tight Space

A "stirrup hoe" or one of the ones with a very narrow blade tapering to a point could work.

I've got a tool that I generally call my "grub hoe" because it looks somewhat like the ones used by forest fire crews. It has a narrow hoe blade on one side, almost like an adze (except I wouldn't use it for shaping logs), and a three-tine rake on the other side.

It's kinda handy. I can look for a brand name on it, if you want to know more.


Running ethernet under ground to another building

Fiber would be ideal, but...

Bear in mind that terminating fiber is more exacting and more expensive. It requires special equipment and special skills. You can't just cut fiber with a pair of wire snips and crimp a plug on the end of it. The ends have to be angled and polished, and it sucks when you poke the little fibers in the ends of your fingers, etc. What I'm saying is that you won't be terminating the fiber yourself, you'll be hiring it out.

Equipment considerations and cost for fiber

I was going to make a statement about the cost of fiber GBIC or SFP modules, but those seem to have come down in price. I'm even seeing modules from top-shelf enterprise switch manufacturers online between $45 and $200, presuming they aren't fakes. If you're willing to go with non-enterprisey brands, I'm seeing some SFP modules between $40 and $100 each, and switches with SFP ports that might work with those modules starting around $150 each. You would need at least two such switches and two such modules (alternatively, you can find Ethernet switches that have fiber ports built-in). If you already have top-shelf switches, you're going to want to buy modules from the same manufacturer. Some of the top-shelf switches simply expect to find GBIC/SFP modules from the same manufacturer plugged into them, and in fact some recent switch firmware upgrades will disable off-brand modules that worked prior to the firmware upgrade (presumably because somebody somewhere had issues with those modules not working properly).

Practically speaking, Ethernet over copper is fine

I would do it. I would rent a trencher and bury PVC conduit (schedule 40 or 80, or liquidtight) at least 18" deep, then pull direct bury rated Cat-whichever cable through the conduit. This way, your Ethernet cable is both protected from physical damage (sch 80 is better for this than sch 40), and you have an additional electrically-insulating layer between your wire and the lightning. Caveat: lightning is weird; no guarantees.

250 feet is just fine for Ethernet. The spec is 328 feet (100 meters). But that doesn't even mean the signal suddenly stops working at 100 meters. It means the cable conductors are sized, twisted and sheathed such that, presuming competent termination, installation that respects minimum bend radius requirements and non-defective equipment, you will get full performance at 100 meters.

I would look for real copper cable, and not copper-clad aluminum (so-called CCA). If you bargain hunt really hard, you'll find CCA cable a lot cheaper than pure copper, but caveat emptor (buyer beware). On the one hand, there's a skin effect and most electrical conduction happens on the skin of the wire, which I admit is where you find the copper in a CCA wire. On the other hand, aluminum is a poorer conductor than copper, and there are also chemical breakdown issues over time with aluminum and copper in contact with each other, which means your signal quality could degrade with time if you use CCA.

If you bury conduit you can pull more or different cable later. That could be another Cat5e run or two so that you can do LACP trunking (Etherchannel in Cisco-speak, or "teaming") to combine multiple Gbps links into one higher bandwidth link. Or you could pull Cat6/6e/7 or fiber later.

Use grounded Ethernet surge protectors on both ends and make sure you bond the ground wires appropriately.

If you bury the cable reasonably deep, in PVC conduit, and take extra pains to add surge suppression and adequate grounding, you should be as safe as you can reasonably expect. In the case of a lightning strike, an Ethernet cable can only transmit so much current, which the surge suppressors stand a chance of absorbing/diverting. If that happens and somehow destroys the cable and both surge arrestors, you just pull new cable and buy a couple of new surge arrestors.

As an extra precaution, only plug the buried cable into Ethernet switches with grounded plugs, and ensure that they're plugged in to receptacles with functional grounding. Or at least make sure the switch has a grounding lug on it, and connect it to ground. Note the grounding lug on the left side of the back of the switch in this picture:

Also, data center (including wiring closet) standards call for a grounded solid copper bus bar mounted on the wall, and better network and telco equipment will have a ground lug on it so you can hard-wire it to ground.

Bear in mind that as weird as lightning is (and it is weird), it is seeking the earth. There's a massive static electric charge built up on the clouds, and the voltage potential is between that and the earth itself. It's a static discharge between clouds and the earth, through whatever conducting medium presents the least resistant path. Although, lightning is weird. Take ball lightning, for instance.

Also bear in mind that you have a cable modem or DSL modem (more than likely), which is directly plugged in to a coax or telephone cable which runs for miles underground and for the most part that works out okay. Of course, both your telephone line and your coax line are grounded where they enter your house, right?  :-)

Here's an Ethernet surge protector, for example, good for up to Gigabit Ethernet for under $20:

I have definitely heard and seen issues with buried network cable and lightning in the past, but honestly that tended to be in situations where (I'm not kidding) somebody had done something like direct-burying 1000' of RG9 in a 3" to 6" trench under a gravel parking lot.


OK to not vertically center TV wall mounting plate?

There should be no problem using the mount linked to mount that TV.  The TV is only 35 pounds and most mounts are over engineered for their weights and the mount listed will handle 60 pounds.


If you indeed have no ground in the box, the correct and code compliant action is to install a GFCI outlet, marked "no ground attached" (there should be stick-on labels in the box with the GFCI).

You could also replace it with a new 2-prong outlet. Under no condition should you use a normal 3-prong without connecting the ground or connecting the ground to neutral ("bootleg ground").


How should I build a skid foundation for my shed?

I'd opt for using the 10 ft 4X4's with a sistered joint in the middle. You could sister the joint with a 2 ft length of 2X4 on each side, so one 8 ft 2X4 would do both skids.  Be sure to taper or bevel the ends of the 4X4's so it will "skid".


How can I replace circuit breakers with GFCI breakers when it is a multiwire branch circuit?

You'll need a double-pole GFCI breaker, wired like so:

What you have described is a multiwire branch circuit. Because the neutral is shared, the overcurrent protection device(s) (in your case the two separate breakers) must be able to trip together.

This can be remedied by installing a double-pole breaker, or by handle-tying two individual breakers. However, since you already have a need for GFCI protection, go ahead and install a double pole GFCI breaker.

However, existing lights might not need GFCI protection if they are 5 ft or more away from the pool (horizontally) and 5 ft or more above the maximum water level of the pool. Within 5 ft and below 5 ft above the maximum water level is not allowed. See (B)(3) and (4).

If you move or install new lights, they are subject to new installation requirements. See (B)(1).

  2014 NEC

  680.22 Lighting, Receptacles, and Equipment.

  (B) Luminaires, Lighting Outlets, and Ceiling-Suspended
  (Paddle) Fans.

  (1) New Outdoor Installation Clearances. In outdoor pool areas,
  luminaires, lighting outlets, and ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans
  installed above the pool or the area extending
  1.5 m (5 ft) horizontally from the inside walls of the pool shall be installed at a height not less than 3.7 m (12 ft) above the maximum
  water level of the pool.

  (3) Existing Installations. Existing luminaires and lighting outlets
  located less than 1.5 m (5 ft) measured horizontally from the inside
  walls of a pool shall be not less than 1.5 m (5 ft) above the surface
  of the maximum water level, shall be rigidly attached to the existing
  structure, and shall be protected by a ground-fault circuit
  interrupter.

  (4) GFCI Protection in Adjacent Areas. Luminaries, lighting outlets, and ceiling -suspended (paddle) fans installed in the area extending between 1.5 m (5 ft) and 3.0 m (10 ft) horizontally
  from the inside walls of a pool shall be protected by a ground-fault
  circuit interrupter unless installed not less than 1.5 m (5 ft) above
  the maximum water level and rigidly attached to the structure adjacent
  to or enclosing the pool.


How can I puncture an eaves trough full of water and not get wet?

I think your best bet is to install a downspout at the other end to drain the water and direct it away from the garage foundation. I'd imagine that water just dripping out of a hole would come with some problems of its own.

If you want to drain it while you work on it then you could use a shop-vac to vacuum up all the water.


Product identification/recommendation - the goo between sliding door and wooden deck

its butyl sealant.  it still works fine, but nowadays you can use a polyurethane sealant for superior results.


There are a few possibilities; without knowing more about the layout of the house makes it harder to say for sure.

The internal wall in the garage might be constructed in normal blocks for fire performance reasons. (Without looking, I'm not sure about the fire performance of thermal/lighweight blocks). Also, normal blocks might have been used for structural reasons - for example if the wall is load-bearing (normal blocks generally have a higher compressive strength than thermal/lightweight blocks).

Likewise with the bathroom and en suite - there might be a difference for structural reasons.

Or there might be no firm reason for the difference at all, other than the builders using what they had available - it's not unusual for builders to use what they have as long as it meets any specific requirements for the particular element of the structure.


How should I hang joists that are supposed to be doubled, but that will sit over the joining of two boards?

If I understand your question correctly, the problem is that the green highlighted double joist is going to land on the joint between your two boards making up the 22' ledger attached to the house.
I see a couple of options:

So long as the fasteners (ledger to wall) aren't in the way of the joist hangers, have the ledger joint right there and use a standard double joist hanger.

Make your ledger out of a 12' and a 10' board, thus moving the joint between ledger pieces away from the doubled joist and eliminating the problem all together.  This could move the joint to behind another joist hanger, which could present the same issue, but in a different location, so...

Make your ledger out of two 12' boards, each cut to an appropriate length so that the joint falls conveniently between joists. This allows you to securely fasten at the edge of each ledger board and to use your joist hangers without fear/concern about running into the fasteners at the edge anywhere along the line.

You'll probably find that even two 12' boards are going to be cheaper than a 20' and a 8' anyway. 20 footers are pricey, especially since lumber prices have spiked over the last 6-9 months. I don't recall my local big-box lumber yard selling 18' lengths - I believe the standards are 8', 10', 12', 16' and 20'. Since the ledger will be firmly attached to the house, it can be made up of shorter pieces without worry.
If your calculations show that the joint between a 10' and 12' board will not fall behind a joist position, option #2 would be easier and less expensive, so option #2 would be preferable. Don't forget that you can put either board at either end, so you've got 2 possible locations for the joint.
If you can't make option #2 work out, go with option #3.
Honestly, if the pricing and spacing works to your advantage, you could use three 8' boards as your ledger.


What (cheap) material could I use for a squirrel baffle atop a bird feeder?

Grease. Recommend food grade.

The second material I'd use is a small bb gun, pump, so that you aren't killing them. Just enough to scare them off.

Honestly though you're going to be hard pressed to find something big enough to stop them from getting there. Whatever you do they'll figure out how to get around- otherwise a single piece of sheetmetal that's 2x longer than their body in radius (and they CAN stretch) should make it impossible to swing under.

That'll also turn it into a nightmare in any wind...

You can make it harder, and make it funnier with food grade grease, but otherwise...


How to properly dispose of empty fire extingusher?

Many, but not all, can be refilled/recharged. I'd ask the local fire dept who does that, get a quote, and compare it to the cost of buying a  replacement

If not, then if there is any pressure left they might be interested in having it for demo purposes.


Turn off water supply but leaving heat burner on?

With the water turned off to standing pilot gas water heaters, I suggest leaving the controller in pilot; that way it can not turn on the burner and damage the tank. This also keeps the pilot running and those pesky little spiders that love to build nests in the tubing away; then, when you return, just turn it to the proper temp: no hassle having to relight the pilot. But you need to drain the pipes as no heat and water in the pipes can damage them.
If you have electronic ignition turn the control to off.
Since this is a recirculating heating system, though, I would suggest leaving the water in the system and turning it down. That will keep the pipes warm so breakage is not a problem unless your vacation is extended (a month or more, then draining makes more sense).


Primer mottling, is it getting absorbed into the wood?

Supele has a lot of natural oils in it, similar to some types of Mahogany or even Ipe, making it great for outdoor applications, including decks and even boat building. However, because of the natural oils, it will repel finishes and give the finish you described (a picture might help). Try sanding it smooth, then wiping it off with mineral spirits before attempting to paint again.

This still might not solve your issue and a coat of shellac as recommended by @jbbenni might be necessary to seal it prior to painting.


Supply valve is not fully shutting off.

Consider replacing it.

If that is not a task you wish to do now get a plug for  the line to temporarily stop the drip until new DW is installed


Since there's no grounding conductor in the box (i.e. the box is not grounded), touching a meter lead to metal is basically useless.Your COM probe should go to the grounded (neutral) (white wire in your case), then you can use the other probe to test for voltage.
It sounds to me like there might be a problem with the wiring inside the fixture, since you said the light kit on its own worked. It sounds like for some reason either the blue or the white wires are not continuous through the fixture to the light kit. Maybe a loose or bad connection inside the unit, or a loose or bad connection where the light kit clips into the fan.
If your multi-meter has a continuity setting, you could use that to test the continuity through to the light kit.  If not, you can use the resistance feature to do the testing.
The continuity setting will look something like this...

While the resistance setting will be represented by the omega symbol (Ω). If you're using the resistance settings, you'll want to use the lowest setting (usually 200, 400, or similar).
Testing continuity

Turn the power off to the fixture using the circuit breaker, and verify power is off.
Disconnect the white and blue wires from the building wiring.
With the light kit disconnected from the fan.

touch one probe to the white wire at the top of the fan, and the other to the white wire where the light kit should connect. Note the reading.
touch one probe to the blue wire at the top of the fan, and the other to the blue wire where the light kit should connect. Note the reading.
touch one probe to the white wire of the light kit, and the other to the threaded bit in the light socket. Note the reading.
touch one probe to the blue wire of the light kit, and the other to the contact at the bottom of the light socket. Note the reading.

With the light kit connected to the fan.

touch one probe to the white wire at the top of the fan, and the other to the threaded bit in the light socket. Note the reading.
touch one probe to the blue wire at the top of the fan, and the other to the contact at the bottom of the light socket. Note the reading.

When testing continuity, a beep or low resistance reading means there's electrical continuity between the two test points (i.e. electricity can flow between the points). If there's no beep, or an open or infinite reading, it means there's no electrical continuity (i.e. electricity cannot flow between the two points). If there's a high resistance reading, it means that there's a bad connection between the two points (i.e. electricity cannot flow easily between the two points).

If the continuity tests all pass (i.e. there's continuity from the top of the fan through to the socket), then you'll want to check the bulbs to make sure they're good, and check the contacts within the sockets to make sure they are making solid contact with the bulb.
If it still doesn't work, you'll want to think about exchanging the fixture.


I believe you have your answer right in your picture:

My guess is that if you investigate that swing out tab mechanism you will discover that when it is folded down to the inner window pane frame that it has a tab that goes right into a similar slot.


What do as-built drawings need to look like?

There are default symbols that you use for floor plans.  Google floor plan symbology to get these.  I use Visio to do all of my stuff - I have tried the apps made for doing floor plans and they just take too much time.

Obviously contacting your local municipality is the place to start.  I will just tell you my experiences.

they want to see the entire floor that you are affecting or attaching to not just the area that you are adding or affecting.  You can keep this to just dimensions.
they want to see all electrical
for bathrooms they want to see tub/shower dimensions, toilet dimensions (and dimension to shower/tub/vanity/walls), vanity dimensions, GFCI outlets, fan placement.
they want to see how you are going to handle new electric.  Label how each outlet is getting electric.  I usually note circuit 1,2,3,4... and label outlets 1.a, 1.b, 1.c...
every single possible dimension of the rooms you are doing everything to including distances between outlets.  Also include any built in lights.
if you are digging I usually have a blank layout with the dig pattern and where we are digging and what we are doing
location of all smoke alarms and indication if they are battery or connected
if you are touching at all any existing gas or plumbing I would have a different sheet for that.  I would include details (few paragraphs of plans), label plans to layout, and then designate and spots where I will have access panels.
if you are knocking out anything load bearing - even a few feet - I would have a note signifying what we will be using to pick up load.  Most of the time this will require an engineer sign-off.  However if you are not knocking out a whole wall but making an opening bigger I have gotten inspector sign off by drawing up a support plan with well over-engineered structure.  Sometimes I talk to inspector about this and spending an extra $50 on a header (that could probably handle double the load) can save me $500 with an architect.
if you are doing kitchens most inspectors want to see where the oven, fridge, microwave are going and how they are getting electric.  There are a lot of electrical rules for GFCI outlets and distances so they want to see if you are up to code before working.  Also if you are doing an island and it is fixed most places want an outlet on it.  Your kitchen should really have its own drawing.  Some towns want to see cabinets, some don't care.  I would just label the cabinet areas "cabinets".  If they want to know exacts you can revise.
if you are actually building a room then you need a three dimensional drawing with wood type and layout plans.  If just finishing a basement you could just say, I am using premium pine 2x4s with treated pine for bottoms.  Might have to include how you would secure the wood to the ground.  If it is a new room outside the house this is pretty intense and I would really only do this with an architect drawing.  There are drawings needed for lower support, all windows, truss/roof system, and how it connects to house and existing roof line.   Just from experience doing your own drawing for a totally new addition to your house will probably raise huge red flags with any inspector.  I would not do this unless you have had a meeting with the inspector about this beforehand.
and I totally forgot about insulation and fireblocking.  Basically this is usually just an addendum next to your picture where you tell the exact type of insulation and where it is going.  The same goes for fire blocking.  I put these together because I often put them in the same area since I usually use Roxul to fill small gaps for fire blocking (preferred method in my area).

If I can think of more I will add on.  In summary basic drawing of the entire floor or house, and very detailed for areas where there are changes.  If you have a bathroom then that is it's own drawing (zoomed-in).  If you are digging, its own drawing.  Gas or major plumbing changes, its own drawing.  If there is a new kitchen plan, then that is its own diagram.  Then electric, smoke alarms and basic stuff should be on the main drawing.  If there is an addition to existing house, then 3-D diagram from architect/engineer.  I want everything I can going to the city.  That way they can raise any red flags before I start working.  Also it is good if you have contractors.  Giving them copies of their parts will keep them inline and raise questions before they are problems.


How to remove countertop from cabinets while sacrificing it to maximize the chance to reuse cabinets

Since you do not care to preserve the top you could break it apart into smaller pieces. Breaking it that can typically be done with a sharp whacks with a heavy hammer and/or a masons chisel.

If the doors on the cabinets below the top are glazed with glass you will have to use care to avoid breaking the glass as you bust apart the top. If you can remove the doors beforehand by detaching the hinges it would be a good idea to do that.

The white material used to fasten the top looks like a white silicone material. It is not surprising that you would have some difficulty trying to cut it with a blade pushed into the crack. The rubbery nature of silicone will make it very difficult to cut in this manner.

I do suspect that as you proceed to break up the top that you will get some pieces that are still stuck down by the silicone. A twisting or lever action on the piece will usually make the silicon peel off of one surface or the other. In case it does not want to pull loose you can reach in with a sharp utility knife and cut the silicon easier when it is pulled and stretched by tipping up the top piece.


You can definitely Zinsser over latex - just did it last week.  Now will the Zinsser after latex not cover up the smell as much.  I am not sure and not really sure anyone could say for sure but I would rather have it directly on the wood.  Latex will sit and Zinsser will work its way in more.


How to drill a 3/4" or larger hole in a steel bracket?

If you're referring to the hole at top center in your photo, you'd have a hard time drilling a new hole halfway overlapping an old hole. A better approach would be a rotary grinding tool. Any abrasive grinding bit will allow you to enlarge the hole enough to get the bolt through.

Be aware that this will tend to heat the part being worked. A damp rag on the part near the hole will absorb heat and prevent paint damage.

Alternatively, clamp a scrap bar over the original bar and drill through both. The scrap bar will act as a drill guide. You can use any high-speed steel bits available. There's no need for titanium or other exotic stuff.


Wiring two 3-way switches with 2 light fixtures and 1 outlet

Your teacher is wrong.  You can't do that.

Between the lamps you need four wires:

Two travelers, since they need to go past  the lamps
A switched-hot, since both lamps need switched-hot
A neutral, since both lamps need neutral

That's four wires plus ground, all of which are part of the same subcircuit.

Since the four wires are related and part of the same subcircuit, they must be part of the same cable.  Your instructor plans to use two 14/2 cables to provide the 4 conductors.  That is a violation of NEC 300.3(b), all related wires must be in the same cable.  Why? Eddy current heating and vibration causing fatigue breaks, we're dealing with AC here.

He also forgot neutral to the switch box

His installation violates 404.2(c), which requires neutral come to every switch box.  That is a NEC 2011 requirement to support "smart switches".

So let's reboot this deal

Assuming these lights and switches are ~18" apart, this will not work with the segments of wire he specified.   However, this is how you do it.  I chose colors by function (red=switched hot, yellow=2 travelers).  Common cables may not come in those colors; whatever, that's what colored tape is for.

This diagram omits ground because it doesn't require any thinking and it just clutters up the diagram.

Note how you will have a single, /3 cable between the switches.  The /3 cable only needs to go between the switches.

Don't do one of the stupidest things you can do in a 3-way circuit, running the messengers through the lamp boxes for no reason whatsoever.  Having the /3 cable stop at the lamps is useless, and far worse, it obliges you to have 3 splices of 2 wires each, which adds a bunch of box fill (12-13.5 cubic inches) to a standard octagon box that's already way too small for that.  It is simply insane to do this.

Once you've reached the far switch, you double back on a different route,  with /2 cable to the lamps.

This assures we comply with 300.3b (all related wires together in same cable), avoids using expensive 14/4 cable, and complies with 404.2c (neutrals at switches).


One red wire on your dimmer should be connected to the supply from
the wall live
The other red should be connected to the load the one that switches
the lamp on off
Black should be connected to your neutral
The Green should be connected to your bare conductors or earth (ground)

As mentioned previously you should have as physically minimal copper exposed as possible realistically none it should all be inside the connector the insulation should go right to the connector itself.

Test to find what you need?

Your earth or ground when tested to neutral should present 0v
When tested from your neutral to your live supply full voltage should be present
When tested from your neutral to your load the wire that goes to the lamp 0v should be present as this is only live once in your particular case has gone through the dimmer

Could you provide if possible a picture showing the model number and one of the front or alternatively if it is simply an open up dimmer case a picture showing the electronics on the inside.
Usually you will have one red power in, one black power return path or neutral, one ground or earth and finally one power out to your load (lamp light)


Why did power temporarily go out on one circuit?

There's only one solution, and that's to trace the circuit and examine every connection. You have a loose screw or a broken wire somewhere that's arcing and losing contact. That's where fires start.
I would take the opportunity to replace the devices where they're more than a few years old (both switches and outlets wear out), and make sure you have a good understanding of how to make connections safe. Don't use the stab-type connectors that some devices offer. Use the screws with good loops and use pigtails where necessary.
If you do that and the problem doesn't resolve you'll have to assume a broken or damaged wire in some concealed location.
Be sure to do some reading on house wiring first. Your confusion over the definition of a short demonstrates a lack of basic knowledge. You don't want to make the problem worse with incorrect technique. Or get professional help.


How to tighten threaded pipe in an existing assembly of pipes

You either disassemble it from its closest union, or start cutting.

If it leads to a pump, I'd advise installing unions at both ends of it, to facilitate replacements.

Simply tightening this pipe probably isn't the way to go. It's likely deteriorated at the threads and that's why it's leaking. You'll risk snapping it off in the fitting to get it watertight again, unless you take it apart, inspect the threads, and re-dope it.

Also, are you sure that's brass and not galvanized steel? If it is steel, where's your dielectric fitting? (that's why it's leaking). Even if it is brass, it's crappy: look at the color of that 2" nipple below it; that's made out of real brass.

You mentioned sweat fittings. Can this be taken back all the way to the first sweated fitting, so you could do away with as many (threaded) connections as possible?


Searching for NEC Code reference for service disconnect location

Article 230
  Services

  VI. Service Equipment — Disconnecting Means
  230.70 General

  Means shall be provided to disconnect all conductors in a building or
  other structure from the service-entrance conductors.

  (A) Location.

  The service disconnecting means shall be installed in accordance with
  230.70(A)(1), (A)(2), and (A)(3).

  (1) Readily Accessible Location.

  The service disconnecting means shall be installed at a readily
  accessible location either outside of a building or structure or
  inside nearest the point of entrance of the service conductors.


Types of floats and trowels for concrete

In my years in the construction trade, here is my synopsis of concrete floats and trowels and their uses.

I will start with the screed. A screed can be as simple as a short piece of framing, 1X3 or 2X4, long enough to go from side to side of a concrete form, whether it be for a 12" thick foundation or a 3' wide side walk. For larger poured slabs the screed can be up to 8 or 10' long with handles mounted for ease of pulling. In essence it is a straightedge that gets a freshly poured concrete surface it's initial flatness. If concrete is going to receive another finish on top, some people choose this as the only step needed to finish the concrete. I don't agree with that idea, I am told by somebody smarter than me that concrete needed to be "sealed" by floating the surface at the minimum. Floating the surface is what I do in all cases whatever the finish.

Floating is the fist step in finishing the concrete after the screeding is done. It is done to push the heavier, larger aggregates down below the surface, and brings the finer aggregates/grout to the surface which allows, in the next step, with steel trowels, for a very fine finish if it is required. Floating should be the minimum of any surface prep done with concrete. If you choose to do a very coarse broom finish on a sidewalk or other slab, apply the wet broom after this step, after the gloss is gone. When brooming, I float the surface twice, then broom. It leaves a slightly less coarse finish.

Floating concrete has been done in the past with wooden tools, Magnesium floats, in my opinion, are just a modern, more durable equivalent of the wood float. I have used both, but I have never used a plastic concrete trowel. I prefer magnesium floats over wood, but I have made wood floats on site to get by in a pinch. To answer you question above, if the plaster or mortar has not set up too much, this is the tool I would use to flatten it out. If it has set up too much, then it needs to be scraped off or broken up and tried again.

Bull floats are simply much bigger versions of the floats mentioned earlier. Instead of the working part of the tool being 16" or so, it is up to 36" wide and is really efficient in getting the surface smoothed over in a short time. I have made wood bull floats on site too when the occasion needed, sometimes up to 4' wide.

Steel trowels are used to give the smooth finish you see on floors in commercial buildings. Of course the finish floors are covering them up, for the most part, It is also done in basements of residences with finished or near finished areas.

The steel trowels take the fine sand and grout that was brought up in the floating process, and takes it one step finer. It pushes the coarser sand down, leaving the finer sand and grout at the top, which leaves a supremely fine, smooth finish after troweling 2 times. When  fine broom finish is called for, the wet broom is applied after the first steel troweling is done and the gloss has gone.

I believe this also helps the concrete cure harder.


Is this termite damage and if so how do I repair it?

The last couple pictures appear to be wood boring insect damage (termites or carpenter ants). I'd spray the area with pesticide, setup bait traps in a perimeter around the home, and in this location, sister or replace the stud with a pressure treated 2x4.


With #4CU you can have up to a 90A feeder breaker. Even at 105' a 90A feeder is FINE.

The sum of the breakers is a completely meaningless number, you need to consider the actual load you will have at any given time. Think about it, a typical 200A panel might be filled with 400, 500, 600, or more amps worth of breakers.
Better yet do a load calculation, which in an installation like this is pretty hard to pin down.

IMO there is no reason at all to go with less than a 70A breaker. If it were me the 90 would be in there already.
Your wire will handle it, why limit yourself???

Actually, re-reading it You are saying you want to use a GFCI breaker for the feeder? If so, WHY?? That is an expensive breaker that is NOT needed. Simply use GFI receptacles where required at the point of use.

If this is the case then I'd go with the biggest GFCI breaker I could find under 100A, which is most likely 60A.


Why do my appliances show two sets of power consumption ratings and which one applies to my house?

Assuming you have the split-phase power supply that is normal for residential settings in the United States, you should use the line item for 120/240V.

The 120/208V line is for 3-phase supplies, which you typically find in commercial or industrial settings (each leg of a 3-phase supply is 120V relative to the neutral, and is at a 120° phase difference to each of the other legs, so the voltage between them is 120V * sqrt(3) = 208V).


How to rescue smoothie stains on the wall?

You may have to get a ladder, assuming you don't have one tall enough.  You could decorate the rest of the wall with more smoothie but painting would probably be the best bet. :)  If you do paint, test on some lower stains first and give them at least a day to see if the stains bleed through the paint.  It would be safer to just use some Kilz primer to seal the stain spots before repainting the wall.


regular circuit breaker doesn't trip.....when changed out to ground fault breaker it trips

GFCI breakers trip if either:

there is an overload
there is a ground fault

Regular breakers trip if:

there is an overload

From here we have a simple high school logic question.   If a regular breaker does not trip, and a GFCI breaker does trip, what kind of fault condition are we talking about?

Right first time :)

So now you need to find and kill that ground fault before it finds and kills you.


Why would half my attic roof be drywalled

It's an "approved" substitute for a "fire wall" that does not extend 30" up through the roof.

The Code requires fire walls (and sound walls) between multi-family housing units to extend 30" above each unit. However, one approved "alternate" design allows the fire wall to terminate at the bottom of the roof sheathing, if gypsum board extends out from the party wall 5' (I think) on the bottom of the roof joists. (The portions that are missing, could be sloppy work that has already fallen down and removed.)


Is there an advantage to single-ended LED replacement bulbs for fluorescent fixtures?

I have purchased hundreds of led tubes. I currently use a T8 that is ballast bypass single or double ended and ballast compatible, I love these lights and just ordered 4 more cases. With my T5 lights I cannot find the same specs yet but I prefer double ended because most of my T5 lamps are 277v and I don't like my 277v 20 amp circuits having the pins that close together because I lose at least 2 fixtures a year when chunks of wood hit the fixtures. In the past, the ballast controlled the max current but with direct wire lamps that are single ended a good hit would, and has in 1 case, burn a large hole in a very expensive fixture because no matter how good the fixture is the tombstones are all cheap so when the $1.20 tall tombstone broke on a single ended retrofit it burned a huge hole in the $380 fixture.

So I go with double ended when possible.


Why do some lamps have different power ratings for different kinds of bulbs?

Different bulbs dissipate heat differently

The reason why you see different power ratings for incandescent vs. self-ballasted (LED, CFL) lamps for a given fixture is because the different kinds of lamps dissipate heat differently.  Incandescent bulbs give out large quantities of heat, but most of it is dissipated from the bulb as infrared radiation -- this escapes the fixture as long as it is not blocked/absorbed by parts of the fixture.

However, while self-ballasted lamps generate far less total heat than incandescents, most of that heat is generated in the lamp base area and must be conducted out.  This leads to "heat trapping" in some fixtures that are not able to conduct heat away from the lamp socket area well, and limits the ability of the fixture to handle higher power LED/CFL bulbs.

The answer is to find fixtures that aren't so stringently limited -- I, personally, would be inclined to integral LED fixtures in this day and age vs. Edison-base designs to begin with, as using Edison bases for LEDs inflicts many compromises on the both fixture and bulb designers, vs. the design freedom and performance capacity possible with fixtures designed around LED technology.


How can I remove kitchen wall cabinets without visible screws?

Why would you think a French Cleat would not be secure? That's what I would think he did, and then by adding the soffit above, you can't push the cabinets up any longer, so you can't release them from the cleat. The cleat may be attached to the back brace or top of the cabinet, so no visible screws from the inside.


Adding wall sconce fixture - stud in way

Use a saddle mounted box -- these are most commonly used for fans, but can be used for a light as well.  (Link and picture are merely representative.)


My guess (without being able to feel it) is vinyl sheet flooring, ugly pattern made to appear like crushed stone I guess...


Dealing with a broken toilet flange on PVC pipe

Assuming the pipe below the concrete is OK, you can buy a replacement flange that is designed to sit inside the pipe and grip the pipe in such as way as to secure the toilet

If the pipe below the concrete is damaged, you'll need to excavate the concrete and replace the entire damaged section. The good news there is you can install a new flange directly connected to the pipe then.


How can I reduce the size of a bore in steel to accommodate screw threads?

Sounds like you're asking for a drop-in solution for an existing hole and screw size. That's a tall order. I doubt you'll find it, but if you can stand a bit of DIY here are a few options...

A Helicoil (repair coil) normally requires existing threads, but you could epoxy it into place. I'm not sure an M5 will fit your hole, though. You'd want to run your screw in and out before the epoxy sets to clear any squeeze-out.

A threaded sleeve or bushing could work, but again you'll probably need to epoxy it and possibly drill larger.

Tap it for a larger screw. You haven't said what you're mounting, but it may accommodate a thicker screw with or without slight modification. An M8 might work well with the existing hole.


Can I convert a European washing machine to work with a North American outlet?

Well, in North America the frequency is 60Hz, so I'm not sure how that would affect it.  The difference in voltage (220V compared to 230V) is probably not significant.

I'd check with the manufacturer to see if there would be any issues.


Your first quote is correct

NM-B is not rated for wet locations, and Code reflects that in NEC 334.12(B) point 4:

  (B) Types NM and NMS. Types NM and NMS cables shall not
  be used under the following conditions or in the following
  locations:

  (4) In wet or damp locations

Furthermore, the inside of any conduit located in a wet location, such as outdoors, is also automatically a wet location, due to condensation issues if nothing else.  This is codified in NEC 300.9:

  300.9 Raceways in Wet Locations Abovegrade. Where raceways are installed in wet locations abovegrade, the interior of
  these raceways shall be considered to be a wet location. Insulated conductors and cables installed in raceways in wet locations
  abovegrade shall comply with 310.10(C).

So, the second bid is trying to low-ball this by doing a not-so-Code-compliant job; I would point this compliance issue out to them and see how they react.  Personally, I would go with neither option; either the cable would be brought up or down inside the wall cavity then enter the panel from the back, or I would have an indoor junction or pull box at where the conduit exits so that a clean transition from NM to THHN-in-conduit could be made.

Another issue...

Going through the top of a NEMA 3R panel requires special fittings, especially if it's being done with multiple conduits.  Normally, a bolt-on type hub fitting is used to bring a conduit out the top of a NEMA 3R panel, but a NEMA 3R loadcenter only provides a place for one hub coming out the top, as this is presumed to be used for a service mast or such.  Further wiring out the top requires the use of threaded (Myers) hubs that clamp the box from both sides and provide a rainproof seal that way, but that adds cost and requires manual knockout punching in the box top.


Tuscany shower faucet single lever turned to hot, water stops coming out of shower head

The hot water inlet side of your valve may be clogged with rust or mineral deposits.  I have had that happen before.  In my case there was a galvanized steel pipe section screwed directly into a copper pipe section, which always causes rust in the pipe (galvanic corrosion).

Based on having the red and green adjustments, this sounds like a single-handled valve with a cartridge in the center.  You will need to remove the valve cartridge to clean out any deposits.

Is this a newly-installed valve in the shower, or is it an existing valve that just recently started having problems?


How can I seal subfloor gaps before adding a substrate?

If the 1/4" to 1/2" gaps will be covered with baseboard and shoe molding later, then strips of 3"-5" wide plywood, wrapped/covered in a plastic painter's drop cloth, wedged into the gap will create a fairly tight seal until the leveler dries.

Shims between the strips of plywood and the wall (with the wider part of the shim downward; narrow end up, so the top edge of the plywood can lean against the wall...if it wants) will help ensure the plywood is snug against the subfloor.

Even if a little the plastic somehow gets stuck within the dry leveler (which happens), a cutting blade can trim it.


How to catch smart mice that avoid anything that remotely looks like a trap?

Every time I have dealt with a rodent issue they ALWAYS eat the poison pellets.  Now can you live with a dead mouse somewhere?  Maybe it isn't the best inside way to catch them.  But if you hit them with pellets all along the outside of your house 2-3 heavy sweeps over a course of a few months they will all be dead or close.  They share food when close.  I have done this on a couple houses and I not only killed the mice but didn't notice a chipmunk or squirrel for a while.  I would try this even if you have an inside problem because often they will nest outside right by your house.


Primer on drywall for one year without paint

I'd go ahead and paint it as-is, just as I'd paint my living room after a year, or ten, without any special prep. Kitchens with evidence of grease should probably be cleaned locally.

I've never had paint fall off yet after dozens of personal and professional projects over several decades. Modern paints are very good.


Caulking a baseboard - which bit do you paint?

Personally I prefer to paint it the colour of the baseboard.  I tend to use Satinwood, and the thicker paint helps to mask the bead itself better.  It does require a steady hand as you really don't want to be accidentally painting that on to your wall (I hate masking tape).

As previous commenters have noted, the bead should not be all that thick.  When I install baseboard (or skirting board, as we call it in the UK), I try to use an adhesive like No More Nails as it saves filling or covering the nail holes.
If you are using nails then I would definitely suggest using a couple more to ensure you keep that gap as small as possible


What is the expense and difficulty of moving an exterior kitchen wall?

You'd need to get an engineer to look at it first. The biggest problems I can think of are structural -- even if the house is pier and beam, you'd need to move piers out. If it's not, you would need to dig out a new foundation. Then you have to figure out if the overhang is actually appropriate as a roof over indoor space, that moving the wall won't interfere with your joist and roof structure, and make sure that you're not interfering with your attic ventilation among other things.

I wouldn't just call a contractor and have him start swinging a hammer, and I definitely wouldn't do this yourself. On top of that, this will definitely require a lot of permits and a stamped architectural design to be filed with your city or county.


First, if this is a 240V device, ALL those white wires (on both ends) must be marked with black tape to indicate they are actually hots.

The crux of your problem is you confused supply side with the load side.  Perhaps you assumed "this is a switch, doesn't matter on switches".  Yes, but it also needs power to run itself.

What's universally useful anytime you are dealing with a Line and Load side, is to not hook up LOAD until you have LINE hooked up and everything working with the device/timer/GFCI/whatever.

So figure out which side actually does go to the pool pump, unhook it, and cap it off.  Leave it unhooked.  Now wire up the unit so it behaves normally - is able to cycle on/off, keeps running normally, etc.

This will expose all possible errors - confusing Line and Load, connecting the timer drive to the wrong wire, etc.   It will force you to "get it right" and you won't be able to continue until you do.

Once the timer is sympatico, then finally hook up your Load.


Some general rules.

Black and red wires shouldn't be going to neutral terminals. Silver is neutral.
In general, the tabs on the neutral (silver) side shouldn't be broken unless the upper and lower portions of the socket are being fed from different circuits.
Cable that has black/white/ground is called 2 wire (as in 14/2; the ground is not counted), and black/white/red/ground is called 3 wire (e.g. 12/3)

It sounds as if line power is coming into outlet box 2, the black/white cable. You can confirm that by turning off the power, disconnecting the black wire and leaving it clear of the outlets and other wires, then turning on the power and carefully checking to see if it is hot. Then turn the power back off before proceeding.

I would start with new outlets with tabs intact. (They are cheap). Break off the tabs on the brass side only on each.

Box 2: Connect the black hot (from the 2 wire cable) to the black from the three wire cable and to a pigtail (a short piece of black wire) with a wire nut or a push in connector. Connect the pigtail to the lower brass terminal. Connect the red wire to the upper brass terminal. Connect the two white wires to the silver terminals (the tab on the silver side should be intact).

Box 1: Connect both black wires from the three wire cables and a black pigtail with a wire nut or connector. Attach the black pigtail to the lower brass terminal. Connect the two red wires and a red pigtail with a nut or connector. Attach the other end of the pigtail to the upper brass terminal of the outlet. Attach the two white wires to the two silver terminals. (Tab intact.)

Switch box: Leave this as is, but cap the white wire if it is not already.

In all boxes, attach all of the ground wires and attach the ground to the outlet ground screw.

The lower halves of each outlet should now be always hot and the upper halves switched.


Should there be a screw securing the main breaker in my electrical panel?

Yes, that screw needs to be there.  No, it won't mess up switching off the main.

Your electrical panel uses a backfed main breaker configuration.  This works fine, considering the main breaker is always going to be a regular breaker and thus rated for backfeed (GFCIs and AFCIs have LINE and LOAD terminals as they are not backfeedable).  However, this invokes NEC 408.36(D) in order to keep the main breaker from coming out and exposing someone to live mains when they pull the deadfront off:

  (D) Back-Fed Devices. Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are
  backfed and used to terminate field-installed ungrounded
  supply conductors shall be secured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than a pull to release the
  device from the mounting means on the panel.

The screw you see is that "additional fastener" the Code requires.  It won't mess up switching off the main breaker, either, as the handle OFF position is a mirror image of the handle ON position, roughly.


How can I get rid of the smell of spilled milk from my carpet?

An enzymatic cleaner such as BioKleen Bac-Out should work, if you can apply it thoroughly, let it soak a while, and perhaps do it several times.


Wiring for basement - do I need conduit?

Nope, single wires can't be used unless part of a Chapter 3 wiring method in the NEC that calls for their use, such as conduit.  This is specified in 300.3(A):

  (A) Single Conductors. Single conductors specified in Table 310.104(A) shall only be installed where part of a recognized wiring method of Chapter 3.


Is there a program or system which will tell me what length (8' or 10') 1x3 lumber to get for making storm windows?

You will need all 8' material. The amount of waste you will have would be minimal Any of the numbers do not add up to 96". The stretchers will also work with 8" stock too, with little waste. There you will in essence be using 24" and 32 " lengths.

Cut everything to a rough length, then set up jigs to make your repeat cuts.


There is no reason that you can't make jamb extenders these are routinely used in prehung windows. The casings and whatever you use to bridge the gap to the jamb are just trim and have no structural component.

The trick is to avoid using the exact same thickness. When two pieces are meeting in a plane, it is best to have a slight reveal, an offset (usually between 1/8 and 3/16 inch). This way you have an intended step, not an almost exact match (that is never quite exact).

You can glue the edge of the extender to the edge of the jamb (maintaining the reveal) and pin the face of the extender to the underlying stud.

Most stock prehung doors use jambs that are 4 9/16 inches, wide enough for 2x4 framing (1.5x3.5 actually) and two 1/2 inch drywall faces.


Sure, how much effort would you like to put in to it?

The easiest way is to paint over it.

Then there is manually or machine sanding all of the paint off.

Another option is using a paint stripper and chemically removing the paint.

Both of these last methods are quite labor intensive and make a mess.

I would buy some paint samples. Paint some scrap drywall or pieces of white cardboard. Choose a complementary color or contrasting color. Then paint one entire wall break-to-break. Or just repaint the entire room.

Good luck!


What happens if the neutral is switched rather than the hot wire for a light?

I would say are you sure the neutral wire is being switched. What you describe sounds like a common “switch leg” where the white wire carries the hot from the fixture to the switch and black takes the switched hot back to the fixture.
This was code for many years the white was supposed to be reidentified as black with paint, tape as a hot most commonly overlooked.
If the wire was actually switching the neutral so the lamp had power all the time this would be a code violation and present a hazard to someone changing the lightbulb in the future.
I would verify hot vs Neutral with a meter to make sure as we have seen diy try to reword a switch leg that was properly wired.
The white being hot all the time keeps it from being mistaken as a neutral and the reason code required this.
If they switch the neutral it is easy to fix and the colors at the light would be correct.


Will joint compound / drywall mud clog my drain?

I think it would depend on the amount of compound you're putting down the drain, what size drain, how much water is used to flush the tools, and probably a few other factors I haven't thought of. Though typically it's not a problem, as long as you're not pouring a whole tray of mud down the drain.

Scoop out any left over mud from your tray/hawk, and throw it away. Then rinse all the tools thoroughly.

NOTE: If you're using premixed compound, never put unused mud back in the bucket.  Once the mud is out of the bucket, either use it, or toss it.


You want something like a pipe Union. You might have to check with local codes though cause  you might need have the union at the appliance with gas lines. I am not 100% sure, a plumber would know. https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/65-union.htm


It also helps if you can put a straight edge such as a 2x4 under the drywall along the edge you want to break along. Scoring plus the straight else is usually sufficient to get a nice break without too much force.


It might not help with air flow, but hanging a lined door curtain over the inside of the office door will stop the light escaping the office, and you will still hear what is going on in the bedroom.


What does a red light on my circuit breaker mean?

It's almost certainly the case that this is a GFCI (Ground Fault) breaker, or an AFCI (Arc Fault) breaker.

It is tripping because it is detecting a fault in the circuit which it is designed to protect.

The most likely cause of a Ground Fault is that you plugged in an appliance that internally has a ground fault.  Unplug it. Plug it into some other GFCI protected socket in your house, e.g. a kitchen receptacle.  If it trips that one too, then it needs repair.  Otherwise it may be a bad GFCI.

The second most likely cause of a GFCI trip is some wiring is getting wet.  The third most likely is you modified the wiring and did it wrong.  GFCIs are really good at enforcing the Electrical Code.

If it's an AFCI trip, then it might be an appliance (electric blankets were basically the reason AFCIs were invented). However AFCIs were found to be fantastic for detecting wiring faults inside the walls - these are nearly always at a receptacle, switch or lamp.   You may have to open up each of the outlets that has gone dead, and double check their connections.   The less likely reason is a problem with the wires in the walls, but that is only likely if you recently drove nails or screws into your walls.


Prevent water seepage through concrete block foundation

This time of year is prime for water seepage into unsealed foundations. With water tables on the rise and the top of the ground still frozen, there tends to be less natural drainage and a bit more water pressure on foundations. This is also a bed time of year in northern climates to improve external drainage. A good drain tile around the foundation directed away from the building or a sump pit pumping water away from the house is the usual method. Since that is not your best option now, the other option is to treat the interior of the foundation with a hydrolic sealant like DriLoc. Driloc and products like it are applied like paint to masonry surfaces and will protect against leaking for up to 4 or 5 PSI external water pressure. The external pressure of ground water against the walls is usually very low, under 2 PSI, so this product is very effective.  The only problem is that the surface should be dry when you apply it. You may have to suffer through the current situation for a bit until the surface can be dried. When you do apply Driloc, it is important to clean the surface well, remove any and all efforant mineral deposits, old paint etc. When applying the product, work it into all the tiny holes of the masonry. Pay special attention to joints between walls and floors.  Two coats is normally necessary.


What is causing this water on the drywall and how concerned should I be?

What room is this in?
Is the room near the kitchen or the bathroom?
Is that an exterior wall?

I will see this in our bathroom when I forget to turn on the fan, or when I run the humidifier in a room with a cold exterior wall.

It's likely just condensation from cooking, a humidifier, the shower, etc.
The drops are darker because as they roll down the wall they pick up dirt, dust, and grime (You never notice how dirty your walls really get).


Entire living room circuit suddenly controlled by hallway lightswitch

Do you have any split-switched-outlets, where one outlet is switched and the other is not, but they are both in the same receptacle?

What you are describing SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO HAPPEN if the wiring hasn't changed. If you have connected things against their product labeling, or used high current equipment (usually for prolonged periods of time), or if the wiring was done poorly, weird things can/will happen. One of those things could be risk of fire so it is best you just turn the breaker off in question until it is checked.

I would at least unplug everything, and use a basic incandescent lamp and check all outlets (each one individually), and write down which ones work, and which ones don't with the switch ON and OFF, and breaker ON and OFF.

If you aren't handy with a meter or are concerned to work with the wiring just call an electrician. They will appreciate your troubleshooting you've done and will almost certainly recheck it themselves. When all is said and done, you'll have peace of mind.


Bathroom Faucet: Identification of Cartridge Replacement

Call community home supply in Chicago.  It’s a Fluhs 16 or 18 point ceramic cartridge.   I’m sure a Newport brass cartridge or something similar will be correct.   If not, they’ll be able to ID it from a picture.


Can't get 3rd Gen Nest to power fan on Trane XR95 furnace

I believe you need to move the red wire at the Nest to the Rh terminal. Rh is 24v from the Heating system. The Rc terminal is 24 volts from the Cooling system. Change that around and see if your issue is fixed.

Nest Pro Installer Guide


How can I install a steel sink if the mounting rails don't fit through the cutout?

I got a Dremel with a cutting wheel and cut one rail off. As I was finishing that one off I discovered I could peel what was left off with a pair of needlenosed plyers. Think opening a can of spam. On the next rail I used the needlenose to pry the rail open and give the Dremel more room to work. I heard a couple of the spot wields pop. Wiggled the rail back and forth somemore and... presto. It popped right off. Time to remove the first rail - 1 hour (had to keep letting the Dremel cool down). Time to remove the next three rails - five minutes. Be sure the sink edge is well supported so you don't bend it if you try this.


Do backer board seams on tiled floor need to be taped?

Yes. And use the alkali-resistant CBU tape.

One tip, which might help or hurt - when you tape ahead of time and let the thinset dry before tiling you can get some bumps among the tape and thinset. These are less of a problem with big tiles which sit on a deeper thinset bed, but can be a pain if using small tiles on a shallow bed. You’ll want to keep a rub stone handy when you start lays by tile. Like here: I was not able to get a smooth finish on a shower pan, how can I smooth it out?

The other thing you can do is tape as you are laying the tile. This avoids the dry thinset bad tape bumps, but adds one more thing to the various things you’ll be juggling.

I can’t tell you which method is better, but you def want the tape so you’ll have a rigid substructure to prevent cracks. If it were me, and I wasn’t in a hurry, I’d tape ahead of time, being very careful to keep everything nice and flat.

Good luck!


Connect 110mm pvc to clay oblique junction

I would probably either keep a stub of cast iron and connect the pvc to that or cut out the wye and put a pvc wye there instead


Gas logs / how open does flue need to be opened

You should be able to dampen the flue as you would with a wood fire to slow burn rate. Bring it down slowly and monitor for smoke intrusion. It doesn't take much to maintain a chimney draft--maybe 25% open.

Do keep a carbon monoxide detector in service as a safety precaution.


Can I install this array of circuit breakers in my sub-panel?

Short answer: yes for the branch circuits, no for the feeder.

The capacity of the sub panel is a total of 30 amps of load NOT the sum of the breakers. As long as the total of all of your equipment doesn't exceed that then you are good.

Edit: Tester is right and I missed that you had 12/3 running to the shed. #12 wire cannot be protected at 30 amps. The maximum for #12 is 20 amps. If you want a 30 amp circuit to the shed it needs #10 wire.


Can hand-rub poly be poured (in drops) then spread?

I found the best results with wipe on poly come from lots of thinly applied coats, rather than slathering on a thick (poured) layer, so although you can pour it you probably won't get super smooth results from doing so.

As I understand it, the theory is thin coats of wipe on varnish dry much faster than a regular brush coat.  Much of the roughness in a finish comes from dust/airborne particles that land in the finish as it dries.  Less drying time means less time for those particles to settle, which results in a smoother finish.


Retaining wall repair and conversion to tiers

Not sure that the cause here is "no backfill" as it looks full in back of the wall. Also, although it is difficult to tell for sure from pictures, the wood does not look rotten.

It seems as though you have 2 problems:

the wall timbers were not adequately tied together vertically and are now moving horizontally independently.
the wall was not adequately secured with some type of 'tie-back" scheme.

Both issues could be resolved, but whether it is a "huge job" depends on perspective. A professional contractor could likely force the timbers back in place (using mechanical or hydraulic jacks or other means) and auger through them from the top down, hammering in rebar to tie them together.

Also, one could trench up-slope and install tie-backs or use one of the several available "retro-fit" tie back gadgets.


Add Accessible Waterline shutoff for built-in style refrigerator

I did a similar install and placed the shutoff in the cabinet next to the fridge. Your idea is pretty much the same, if only a little harder to access.  If there is a cabinet next to the fridge consider that.

In any case, what I used was two, 10' braided steel "ice maker lines" (1/4" compression on both ends) with an inline 1/4" ball valve between them.  A few cable clamps were used to hold the valve in place against the back of the cabinet which makes it easier to operate, but that's optional.  One of the lines needs to be long enough to pull out the fridge and the other just needs to be long enough to reach from the existing valve to the new location.  In other words, you might not need two 10 footers - choose your own sizes.

Ice Maker Line

1/4" compression valve

(Links were the first results I found with an amazon search and only show what I'm talking about.  I didn't use those items but found identical items at a local home store.)


Black and Decker drill bit set with Kobalt drill?

They're universal. That'll work just fine. Drills have chucks with three jaws that clamp down on whatever you stick in them, so they can use round-shank bits and hex bits too.


Can I use hollow wall anchors in a lath and plaster wall?

There are two factors: Your level of care, and dumb luck.

If the plaster hasn't proven to be particularly crumbly in your home, I'd go ahead and use that type of anchor, or this one:

Some tips:

Drill carefully. Don't push too hard and use a high spin rate. You might switch to a fresh bit when you encounter wood. You don't want to blow the lath out the back. The goal is to have a clean bore in undisturbed material.
Install gently. Use a screwdriver or set your drill's clutch to a low value. While it takes some force to deploy the anchor, overtightening guarantees failure. Stop when there's just enough tension to do the job.


If the vents are blowing the room temperature air weakly, then it sounds like there may be a duct disconnected somewhere that's blowing most of the hot air somewhere that's not useful (into a corner of the basement, into an unconditioned attic, etc). I'd trace the duct path from the furnace to a register and see if you can see where any disconnections might have happened. Touch the surface of the ducts. It should be very hot nearest the furnace. See if you can find where it gets cooler.

If the vents are blowing air full blast, but the air is room temperature, then it sounds like air isn't actually being heated adequately by the furnace itself. If that's what's happening, it's likely not a DIY-fixable problem (especially considering it's an oil furnace)--you'll want to call a pro.


Attic Truss Wall, truss on three sides. How do I get electrical in this wall?

If it's a workshop, then does it matter if it's not pretty? Could you just have the cable in conduits on the surface of the wall, rather than buried in the wall?


Could a disconnected ground wire in the breaker box have caused any problems?

If you have not experienced any problems with equipment and have not gotten any shocks, then you dodged a bullet.  No harm, no foul, sorta.  Just glad you found the problem before anybody got hurt. I'm sure no damage to appliances.