Two types of flare fitting, the 45° and the 37°. The 45 is used on low pressure air/gas/water and also rated for fuel gas (usually LP, aka propane). The 37° is called the JIC flare and used in hydraulic plumbing. They don't interchange so just be aware when you buy tooling and fittings.

Can't tell from the picture but I'm guessing 1/2" hard copper tube to 1/2" 45° flare to NPT.

Get a caliper or something to measure the tube. If the OD is exactly 0.5" then you have soft copper. If it's 5/8 then you are looking at hard copper (the kind typically used for water) which for some reason doesn't go by outside diameter but a nominal inside diameter trade size. If it's different, refer to the handbook linked below to figure out the size.

Hard copper can't be flared without first annealing it. To anneal, I heat with a propane or mapp torch until it is glowing orange hot and the flame is turning green. Then let it slowly air cool to anneal. Quenching it with water will only harden it again. You can then flare it in a flaring tool.

Plenty of information in this handbook if you wish to read further: Copper tube handbook


How to fit a length of drainage PVC pipe between two existent fittings

For drainage, you can use a mechanical gear type coupling such as a fernco coupling:

You can slide it over the pipe you're installing, and then once the pipe is in place, slide it back over the joint and tighten the gear clamps.


Why is my electric hot water heater producing lukewarm/cold water?

Sounds like the first bit of lukewarm water is just what is in the plumbing. It's warmed up by the air in your home as it sits there. The cold water after is what's sitting in the hot water heater.

With that in mind, it looks like your hot water heater is not working at all.


How to wire a tandem 120 volt, 2 X 15 amp single pole breaker?

With 14 2 with ground you are limited to a 15 amp breakers as 3phase has stated in earlier post this has been code for many years in the U.S. that's why most outlets in kitchens deal with 12 AWG. If you have 14 awg 15 amp breakers are correct and by putting in a double stuff or tandem you can run a new line to add more outlets or split the existing run to have multiple breakers with the existing runs so 2 appliances or devices won't trip a 15 amp when the next outlet over if fed by the second breaker. Never combine the 2 tandem breakers on the same circuit as this would be a code violation and risk a fire hazard.


Fire Extinguisher Selection for Multiple Use

This is a layman's view, but with some logic behind it as well as experience.

Choose an extinguisher for the major threat first. A second extinguisher might be nice to have but as residual smouldering of things like wood is probably the most likely secondary threat, a ready supply of water should be sufficient backup. If you've still got a fire after using an extinguisher, you should be well on the way out of the door by that point.

The experience I mentioned: we had a small electrical fire, by the time we got the CO2 on it there was paper/card burning nicely and a wooden bench getting going. Once the fire was out and the power off it became obvious that the bench wasn't completely out. CO2 isn't much use on smouldering wood but less than a litre of water dealt with that. For liquid fuels this may not translate directly, but then it's even more important to keep your exit clear and/or use the extinguisher to help you get out, as the spread may not be what you expect.


Which thermostat for both forced air and baseboard heating

The W2 (Aux/E) terminal on the thermostat is for a second stage heat relay or heat pump auxiliary / emergency heat.

Note that this is to energize a relay or contactor coil, which will in turn energize your baseboard heaters;  you can't directly switch baseboard heat with the Honeywell 9000.

Selecting a contactor or contactors and rewiring your baseboard heat so that it is controlled by the smart thermostat rather than the line voltage thermostats you're using now could be an easy job, could be a hard job, depends on the existing wiring.


What foam is best for sealing radiator pipes in floor to prevent mice from getting in?

No foam product will stop them, they will just chew through it. Some of them will eventually kill the mouse, but there's always another one, and another one, and another one to pick up the task and eventually finish it.

Aluminum or steel flashing is the only tried and true method. I've tried steel wool, it didn't stop them. They didn't chew THROUGH it, but they grabbed onto it and pulled it out.


If the fault is on the line side of the GFCI, then it will not detect it.  A GFCI device only monitors the load side wiring.

They also only protect against ground-faults. If there's a hot to neutral short, a GFCI will not detect it.


Is it possible that the kids are somehow misusing the shower faucet causing the cartridge to fail?

I would be looking at the valve plates to see if there is scoring from the original failure. If some damage was on the plate then a new set of seals may work at first but fail as the scoring wears them down. In addition if you find rust scale fine rocks or lime build up in your airators on your faucets it could have been a chunk that was still in the valve when you replaced the last one, I usually try to flush out the plumbing when repairing a washerless for this reason. So could it be the kids sure but I doubt it.


why would overflow tube fill with water after flushing

It is normal for the refill tube to put water into the overflow pipe. It fills the bowl with new water.

The tank is filled by water coming out of the fill valve near the bottom of the tank.

It is not normal for the overflow tube to fill up with water. If it is filling with water, it is clogged. Run a wire or fish line or zip tie down the overflow tube to try to dislodge whatever is clogging it.


Will leaving an electric hose faucet timer in direct sunlight damage the timer?

The instructions say max working temp of 120f I would probably put a light color cover over it Because that’s not far off 110. A cover may affect the rain delay feature but would reduce the direct sun exposure temp to the ambient temp. also it needs to be kept from freezing .


Would two 1x10 placed together be as strong/load bearing as one 2x10

In theory, yes, if you're able to bond them together adequately. This would typically mean a glue bond across the entire surface, or closely-spaced screw fasteners. You might even consider a triple.


Mini Split condensate pump to condensate drain

I don't know about code, but I don't see anything wrong with what's shown in the video. You need a 3/4" MPT threaded to 3/8" barb fitting with a small hose clamp, or a 3/4" slip x 3/8" barb fitting to connect the PVC to your hose. The T on your house A/C is probably there to provide an overflow in case the exit on the outside gets obstructed, either by dirt or by ice. Obviously you want it in a place that minimizes damage should it overflow there...


How do you put another outlet onto conduit

Surface raceways will save you a lot of work in many situations, especially big raceway where you mount receptacles in the cover.  You can add wires from the nearest receptacle on the same circuit to the new receptacle.  These surface raceway products are expensive, some are very expensive, but it's not too hard to work with and you can get a great finished installation without any special tools.  With conduit, you really need to buy a bender and learn how to use it to get a nice finished install.
Of course with conduit, you could just backtrack.  Put the new box under the existing conduit, run a new conduit and wires from the nearest box to the new box.  It doesn't look as nice but it's totally fine.
If you really don't like the idea of boxes at different heights when you backtrack - you could enter the tops of the boxes on the left and exit on the right with pull elbows...

... or, you could run the conduit down at baseboard level and stub 90s up into the box left and right.  That might look a little nicer.  You get the idea, you can get creative.
EIther way, then you'll have clear space between for new boxes.  This will be easier to modify if you add boxes.  You can use a side knockout to backtrack and hit a box set at the same level.


Installing vinyl siding over concrete foundation walls

OSB has no business against concrete. Use treated lumber or plywood for furring.

I'd probably go with folding foam board and skip the furring strips. Use concrete screws for anchoring the siding.


Most products you purchase will have the information on the label. If no information is provided you can look for a marking similar to the following that will help you identify the type of plastic it was made with.

ABS does not have a symbol, but is often marked >ABS<.

In your case, I'd look around the base of the hose reel you should be able to find it. If not consult the manufacturers website.


I would look for a wiring problem  between the heating and cooling fan relays and I would combine both the  heating and cooling thermostats into 1 combination thermostat. 2 separate thermostats is a disaster "waiting to happen". Have a service tech redo the wiring to make sure it is correct.


Water leaking inside outdoor electrical box. What should I do?

That’s a standard weatherproof (Bell) box, and yes, sometimes they do accumulate and hold water as you have found.
Code not only allows boxes to be drained.
Code requires boxes to be arranged to drain; according to 314.15, a 1/8” hole is allowed.
I have found conduit bodies and boxes at a low point (at the bottom of a hill or conveyor) to fill from the bottom, and others to fill from the top. It’s not important, just drill a hole in the bottom and you won’t have any more problems.
So turn off the power and drill a hole and forget about it.


In your case, the indoor fan should run with the A/C and yes the green wire should power the fan relay, as long as the discharge from the outdoor unit is tied to the return system.  I looks like someone used a self-contained unit, usually installed in a mobile home instead of a unit that utilizes an "A" coil or slope coil mounted above the heating unit.


Should the contractor be able to drill holes in a quartz countertop?

Sink holes (faucet/soap/whatever) are almost always done on site.  The actual sink cutout is already done at the shop and the company doing the install probably does not want to risk even further the chance of cracking/breaking.

Anyone with a drill and a $15 diamond circle bit can cut these holes out in a couple mins per hole.  If they can't they shouldn't be installing your countertops.

If your contractor says they are a pro at installing countertops and they DO NOT do this then it is equivalent to a plumber saying they don't hook up shower heads - get another installer.  The holes should be drilled before it is on your cabinets (often these holes might not leave much room from behind for a drill to go straight down).  You do not want to have another guy come out and drill these - if something went wrong who would be at fault?


How thick are the wires connected to the thermostat?

24V wiring will be small gauge, usually 22-18 AWG.  It's commonly used for forced air, hot water, and similar systems.

120/240V thermostats will typically use 14-10 AWG, and are commonly used for electric baseboard heaters.


Moving electrical outlet 3 feet to the left

First, anytime you delete a receptacle or switch, you must review the minimum requirements for receptacles and switches.  You must not kill the only light switch in  the room, for instance, and you can't fall below the minimum spec for receptacle positions -- notably, any point along a wall must be (along-the-wall) within 6' of a receptacle.

12 AWG cable is the universal donor if you don't know what you're working with. 12 AWG is acceptable on both 15A and 20A circuits, the same places common NEMA 5-15 receps are allowed.  You must use the side screws or a screw-to-clamp feature; backstabs are never allowed with 12 AWG.

Box fill

You won't make the cubic-inch problem any worse.  Officially you need 2.0 cubic inches per #14, 2.25 cubic inches per #12,  1 wire count's worth for all grounds, and if cable clamps stick into the box, 1 wire count's worth for all of them.  Then 2 wire count's worth for any receptacle or other type of yoke.  Pigtails are free.

So that sounds like 9 x #12 == 20.25 cubic inches, or 6 x #14 + 3 x #12 = 18.75 cubic inches.  Most plastic boxes have that; but it will be molded into the back of the box normally, so go look.

Besides, while you are adding two #12s, you're removing a yoke, which subtracts 2 wire counts.

If you find yourself short on cubic inches, add a Legrand Wiremold "Surface conduit starter kit" which sticks out of the wall 1".  Stick an outlet there if you don't want it looking dorky.

Nutting 4+

4 solid wires on a nut is not a problem; use the red nuts, square them up even, don't pre-twist, and twist like you mean it.  Then, give them a pull test - hold the nut and yank each wire in turn.  Fail the pull test = start over (don't cut) and refine your technique (line up better, twist harder).  Never use tape to solve a "failing the pull test" problem; failing means you have a bad connection which will arc and start a fire under load; tape helps you ignore it and adds kindling.

You can even do 5 on a red nut if you need to put a receptacle back here.  They also make "screw-to-clamp" receps which allow 2 wires under each screw (so 4 per side). While backstabs are unreliable and #12 forbidden, these are reliable and #12-ok, if you torque them properly.


you have sort of answered your own question - let me elaborate

1)  the valve body should be secured somehow to avoid fore and aft movement.  the movement flexes pipes and joints that arent meant to be flexed, and it is this movment that keeps unscrewing the trim face screws.  you can simply cut a hole on the rear wall the valve is within, and place a mounting block in there.  then cover the hole with a pop in cover or patch the wall outright.  if you have no access, then unfortunately, this means the valve is only held to the front abs sheet by compression between the rough in plate and the trim escutcheon.  i would switch the screws to socket head pan screws if you are going to use threadlocker, and only use removeable strength locker.  otherwise, you may have a hard time removing the stock philips head screws down the road.

2)  the two foam seals are very important as they prevent water ingress behind the escutcheon plate.  if they are worn, you can get replacements from some companies (moen has them) but you can just make your own from adhesive foam weatherstripping.  make sure you leave the gap in the outer one and make sure you orient it to the bottom (it acts as a wicking hole).  when you reassemble everything, put a small bead of silicone around the point where the escutcheon meets the shower liner, and where the escutcheon sleeves the valve shaft cover.  just make sure you leave a small gap at the bottom to allow for wicking.

3)  the o ring to me doesnt seem to serve any purpose other than to act as a circumferential spacer to retain the decorative cover.  or it could be assembled incorrectly originally, or its a feature in a valve i am unfamiliar with.

hope that helps


Did any of the outlets or switches on this circuit that has failed use back stab wire connections? If so try replacing all of those with new  parts and use the screw terminals on the side for the wire connections.

Have you determined yet if there are any switch / outlet / junction boxes on the failing circuit that still have power? If so those would be on the part of the circuit from the breaker box and the failure could be in that box or the next down stream box.

Did you check if any of the outlets on this circuit is a GFCI unit? If so make sure that it is not tripped and reset it.

Finally did you do any recent hanging or mounting things on walls where screws or nails may have have penetrated a wire? Think carefully as this may have caused the circuit to become broken.


Can styrofoam be used between plywood to bring up floor height

That will work as long as you use the dense form of foam board. The white board typically does not have enough compressive strength, at least to my knowledge. The blue or pink colored versions have enough compressive strength withstand the pressure. I have had 2 different occasions to do this type of install. One install was 4" of blue foam with woven wire mesh and radiant floor heat with 3" of concrete first and 2" of bluestone and setting bed over it. The other was 2" of blue foam over a concrete slab, with a layer of 2'X2' squares of OSB with plastic dimple board as a floating floor over the foam. These where done 10 years ago and still holding up fine, so yours should do well.

For your install, plywood will work fine. Use T&G and screw through the foam and the into original floor to keep the large sheets flat. Every 8" on the edges and 12" in the center. This will also help eliminate the hollow sound and feel the floor will have over the foam.


but when I drilled it went in an inch before encountering a hard surface. Definitely not wood. I applied pressure and drilled, and it finally "broke through" in a matter of seconds

This could be bad depending on what you actually drilled through. It might be a good idea to open up the hole enough to see what is there, but do it without drilling and do it carefully.

Why could this be bad? If it was a metal plate installed to protect electrical wires, a wire itself, or if you drilled into a pipe*. You probably can't be sure until you take a look.

I would carefully try to cut a larger hole through the drywall. If you can cut a clean square around the area it will make it easy to fix, as you can cut a square of drywall and use it as a patch for the area you removed. You can possibly replace the square you removed.

You should do this using a drywall knife, or another sharp knife that allows you to make clean and controlled cuts.

If you're not that handy, it might be better to leave it as is, as you don't want to hurt yourself or do more damage.

Once you know what's there, then it's easier to suggest what to do next.


1: Do you have power at the switch (Line In) ? [test with a multimeter]

YES: go to step 2:
NO : See Answer A:

2: Do you have power at the switch (Line Out) ? [test with a multimeter]

NO : Flip the Switch and Perform step 2 again.
YES: Go to step 3
If after flipping the switch and still no power - the switch is bad.
Please verify if it is a push type - make sure your insulation is properly peeled back and the wire pushed all the way in.

3: Test inside Box 2 where the wire comes from the switch and goes to the outlet - is your connection there good ?

Make sure your wire insulation is trimmed.
Redo and recheck the wire nutting.

4: Check that your outlet wire line in is properly connected to the outlet - if it is a push type - make sure your insulation is properly peeled back and the wire pushed all the way in. (This is probably your issue)

Answer A:

You are missing power to the switch; there are two possibilities:

Box 1 Hot wire from electrical box to box1-box2 wire connection is not properly connected or the insulation has not been removed from the wire when it was wire nutted.
Box 2 Hot wire connection from box 1 to switch (Line In) is not properly connected or the insulation has not been removed from the wire when it was wire nutted.


How do I deal with a loose lightbulb socket on our ceiling fan?

NO PUTTY!

You have a loose electrical connection and a loose mechanical connection.

Mechanical

First you need to fix the mechanical attachment mechanism. It may be a loose nut on a threaded pipe holding the individual fixture to the base. It could be some other locking mechanism, such as bolts or screws. In some fixtures, the sockets are held in by pressure fits, which are harder to repair.

In either case, you probably need to take at least the lighting unit off of the fan, and maybe the whole fan down, depending on how it is put together. Before you do anything, turn off the circuit to the fan, not just the wall switch or the remote control switch. Once the wiring is exposed, double check that all wires are not hot by using a non-contact tester.

You need to restore the original attachment method, not just a glue or putty to wedge it in place. Fan vibration will almost certainly cause a makeshift repair to break again.

Electrical

It sounds as if you have a loose wire. You need to make sure that all wires, hot neutral, and ground are all connected (in the US, these are black or red, white, and green or bare). The ground may be established by physical contacts among the metal parts, and restoring the mechanical connection may fix an intermittent ground. Sometimes a wire may be under a wire nut, but not well connected. If there is no obvious disconnected wire, remove and check wire connections under wire nuts.

Replacement

If you cannot make the physical socket stable as originally designed, you need to replace the fixture (or at least that part of it). Underwriters approval (a safety standard) is dependent on the structure as designed. If you cannot restore the mechanical structure, you probably need to replace the entire fan.


Ceiling fan light comes on/stays on - NON remote

It sounds like you have a chafed/exposed wire that is shorting out intermittently due to vibration from the fan motor; either that, or the pull switch itself is failing intermittently.  If you can get it apart and replace the pull switch (Hunter should be happy to sell you the appropriate spare part if you have the model number of your fan handy), try that, and also inspect the wiring closely for bared/chafed spots -- suitable appliance wire for replacing damaged wires should be available at your local hardware or big-box store.


Does code prohibit using salvaged materials in new electrical work?

As long as the components meet current code they can be reused. For example if I replace all the switches and outlets in a home and the outlets are 3 prong and in good shape I will save them and the switches for small repair jobs. You would think after 35 years of doing this I would have truck loads but I only save the quality parts; backstab only devices usually go in the trash and I use enough for friends etc that I only have a medium box full.

Wire can also be reused but I usually will not save romex under 10 awg and then if only in like new shape. I will regularly save larger thhn/thwn wire and inspect it prior to reusing.

Even breaker panels can be reused if they meet current code but in many cases I save the older quality panels for subs in a pump house or garage because most of the time they are only 60 to 125 amp. With all the new AFCI and GFCI requirements I prefer getting larger panels for a home.


Proper way to install subfloor in kitchen

We use to specify building paper between the underlayment and subfloor. About 10-15 years ago we stopped. Now, we worry about moisture (vapor) getting trapped between the underlayment and subfloor.

Nail or screw: Either...the key is to drive 100% of the fasteners flush or slightly recessed.  (Be careful the head of the fastener does not "lift" the wood around the head.) Screws hold better (won't back out) but harder to drive flush with top of underlayment. Power-driven nails are fine, but depth will vary due to consistency of compressor. (When the nail-gun is used a lot in a short time, the compressor will be slightly "weaker" and a few nails won't be driven to same depth, until the compressor turns on.) Hand-driven nails are ok, but use ring-shank nails.

Space between sheets of underlayment: Yes, it is recommended....about 1/16" space or less.

Make sure you follow the flooring manufacturer's recommendation when installing your floor covering. Most laminated wood flooring manufacturers recommend a vapor barrier on the underlayment, but read the instructions carefully.


Why are the white and orange wires both connected to my thermostat's W terminal?

Your Existing Thermostat may not have been the proper thermostat for your unit. However it was made to work - utilizing a wiring trick.

The below is a rough guide for AC thermostat wiring.

Orange wire and Blue wire are usually a reversing valve.

RED, RED[c], RED[h] is 24VAC where c stands for cool and h stands for Heat.

W or W1 White (Heat Stage 1) , W2 [color can vary] (Heat Stage 2)

Y or Y1 Yellow (Cool Stage 1), Y2 [color can vary] (Cool Stage 2)

G Green - Indoor Fan (Evaporator Fan - Blower inside house)

E - Emergency Heat

EDIT 12/05/2017

I am guessing that the outside units are different model units - but it does not matter.

I am thinking that the orange wire might be the loose one on the other side. To know for sure - we already know that the orange and white are tied together on the thermostat side - so it forms a continuous run of wire (continuity) - measuring on the other end of those wires for continuity - we should see it as ONE wire and not two. So on our zone board side we take a continuity tester or better an Ohm Meter; you can get a cheap one for about $5-$10 . With your Circuit breaker off perform the following.

At your Zone Controller where the white wire from your thermostat unit should come in as W1 (disconnect it ) and Measure ohms between that white wire and each of the orange wires - one of them should show continuity if that Orange wire is any of those that feed to the zone board. This is how you can determine which Orange Wire is the wire form that thermostat - your meter should read less than about 3 ohms. You can then LABEL that Orange wire as Your Thermostat #1 or #2 which ever one it  is and then report your findings back here.


What heating system do I have, and what can I do about water pressure in my shower?

The small water tank (header per Owain) looks like it has no water in it.  If that is the case, then it's likely your central heating system will have air in it, and so not work effectively.  Try wiggling the ball valve to see if you can get some water in the tank.


Are there alternatives to a traditional dimmer switch?

As far as I know humming is produced mainly in the core of inductions (coils, transformers) built into dimmers and voltage converters.

Unfortunately all of these 230V LEDs have their own voltage converters, with dimmeable LED's usually sensing the phase cut angle and adjusting the LED chip current accordingly. So you probably may not overcome the humming inside the LED itself. Maybe the only way to have humming free LED light is to use LED bulbs without any current shaping electronics (e.g. 350 or 700mA LEDs) and matching PWM dimmers.

As far as the dimmer is concerned, there are products from Osram, Tridonic and others that are fully solid state electronics, well encapsulated and shouldn't produce humm by themselves. They work on bus systems (DALI, 10V, KNX/EIB) as well as on tap switches.

Regarding off/lo/high ... Ledon produces a LED bulb with "double click" feature, where you use an ordinary on/off switch to switch between off, 30% and 100% ... I saw it in operation recently - very sexy ... other manufacturers are following - search the net for "double click light"


Changing a 2way & a 1 way AU light switch to a smart light switch

OK, that looks like a typical Australian switch setup.
You have 4 cables:

two of them are power

one is power in
the other power out going places unknown
these two are the cables the connect to the short red cable that goes between the two switches.

then you have a cable with three wires that goes to one lamp

a cable with 4 wires that goes to the other switch of the 2-way,

and from there another wire that goes onward to the hallway light.

Unfortunately it doesn't look like the switches you have make provision for multi-way switching, or if they do it's on another page of the instructions.


How big a hole can I drill in a top plate?

That size hole in that location is not a problem.

First, it’s not at the perimeter of the roof. It appears that a covered area extends beyond the wall in question. (Exterior perimeter walls, beams, etc. transfer roof loads to walls, etc.

Second, those jogs in the building design allow bracing to transfer from the roof to the walls.


How do I make a table drawer child-proof?

Well, it's not electrical engineering just because it's magnets. I suppose an active version could be made, but there is this option:

It doesn't appear to be available for purchase, but it doesn't look difficult to build.


How to install vanity light - wall box has 2 white, 2 red, 2 black, 2 ground wires

The red wires are indeed unconnected
If you look at the red wire in the cable from the switch box headed to the vanity light and trace it, it, along with the red wires in some of the other cables, is capped off by itself as an unused "spare" wire, in accordance with what your electrician is saying.  So, I would simply cap off both red wires in the vanity light box by themselves then connect all blacks together, all whites together, and all grounds together.  You can then mount the fixture, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy your new vanity light!


For the tile spacing issue, I don't think there is much you can do at this point short of ripping it all out and starting over.

For the tiles not set in plane correctly, I think you could carefully remove those tiles (just the individual tile), scrape out the hardened thinset behind them, and then re-apply with new thinset.

For the thinset squeezing out, perhaps you could grind that out with a oscillating tool with a grout removal attachment.


How do I ensure my first row of hardwood flooring is straight?

I'd like to write an answer on the overall methodology on how to pick where to align a floor, but I don't have the chops for that. But in your case, I do have a suggestion.

One of the principles of flooring installation is that it's more important to look straight than to actually be straight. For example, you have that architectural detail separating the two rooms. I think it would look more odd if the flooring did not line up with that detail than if you had a wedge shaped piece against a wall. Snap a chalk line down the middle, measure from that line to within a few inches of the starting wall, and snap a second line parallel to the first. Align your first piece with the second line. Then every couple of rows, measure to make sure you are still parallel with the first chalk line.

An alternative would be to snap the first chalk like as I described above and start from the middle of the room(s) and work your way out. Depending on the type of tongue and groove and nailing method, this may not be possible.


Light fixture holes don't align with junction box

There is a round plate adapter made to give you the right orientation. Any lighting supply house can help you. Good Luck.


How deep is the frost line for footers in Michigan?

Historically, the frost line has been 42" in Leelanau county, in northern Michigan (http://www.leelanau.cc/howdoia.asp?rid=12).  But with the severe cold spells in the past couple of years, where even southerly Kalamazoo, frost has reached down 5 feet in some places, MI municipal code officials may adjust that number downward one day soon.


Septic tank pumped 6 months ago, filter cleaned 2 weeks ago, toilet backing up again. Plumbing or septic problem?

With a freshly pumped tank and cleaned filter your next possibility is a flooded drain field
OR
a broken /collapsed or line full of tree roots on the line out of the tank to the field.
I have seen broken lines several times after heavy rains that may have slightly lifted plastic tanks (I have never seen this with a concrete tank).
I would be looking for water to be bubbling if a break, at the break or collapsed line.
If the line is blocked or field flooded the water will make it out to the surface at the tank in most cases where the tank was opened.
If the house is not elevated much (slab) a slow drain field can cause this after heavy rains. I would not expect a 10 year old field to be plugged unless a garbage disposal was used then quite possibly the field could be plugged up.
Standing water at the drain field location may explain your problem if recent heavy rains and after a few days to dry out the ground won’t be saturated and the system will start working again.
Trees in the area could be blocking the flow I have seen willows almost 100’ away plug a drain field the willow was large. Also cottonwood within 50’ and many other trees and bushes closer cause drain field problems. Digging down is sometimes the only way to find the problem if no water is bubbling up.


Drywall mud differences for taping, or gaps?

Fill large gaps with Joint Compound.  Fill small seam crevices with Joint Compound and apply Seam Tape with joint Compound.  Keep Joint Compound below finish "grade" because it is difficult to sand.

Cover over the Joint Compound with Topping Coumpound which, is easily sanded and faired.


Why is one half of a subpanel not working?

Is anything connected to the 'red' side? I am not 100% clear on what is connected to the subpanel but the debugging sequence should be the following:

turn off all the breakers on the 'red' side of the subpanel. Check if the main breaker still trips. If it does not, the issue is with whatever hooked up to that side (shorted wire, etc)
If it still does, swap with the 'black' breaker to see if the breaker itself is the problem.
If the problem continues, check the wiring.


How to get both sides of 1/2 inch water pipe into a new coupling

If you're dealing with copper, you will find two types of couplings.  One has a stop in the center and one without. What you need in this case is the type without a stop. Without  a stop, you can slip the coupling over the entire end of one pipe, and then slip it over the end of the other pipe.

With Stop (notice the dimple in the center)

(source: homedepot.ca)

Without Stop

Without Stop http://www.usqualitysupplyinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/coupling-without-stop.jpg


You can use what's called a "come along", it's a portable hand operated winch-like tool for moving things short distances with a lot of force. The thing is, you will need to find a point at which to anchor one end that is significantly stronger than the bar, like a fence post, otherwise if you just connect to another bar just like it, you bend them both.

This video shows the general operation of it, you would need to adapt to your situation. Small light duty ones are inexpensive or in many cases you can rent one from a rental yard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FfVsfto7-g


Should my chimney cooker hood have a flue?

There are two basic stove/range/hob type hoods. Externally vented would have a flue of some sort that vent smoke ,fumes and odors to the exterior. An internally vented type just filters and recirculates the air back into the kitchen. To make things more confusing most hoods can be set up to operate in either mode. The conversion usually involves installing or removing a metal blocking plate. Both styles require occasional cleaning of the filters to limit grease buildup. I would want to verify that the hood is installed correctly. With the fan on high you should feel air being drawn in and exhausted somewhere. It may be drawn in and exhausted under the hood. Make sure that the unit does not vent into an interior wall cavity or an attic as this would be a fire hazard.


How to wire programmable switch to only a single set of white-black-ground wires

You'll need to find something that doesn't need a neutral, or run a /3 cable to replace the switch loop

Unfortunately, the timer switch you have needs a neutral, which your old-style switch loop wiring does not provide.  So, you'll either need to find a different switch that doesn't need a neutral, or to replace the existing cable with a /3 cable so that neutral can be provided at the switch location in addition to line and load.


Installing sensor dimmer to replace bathroom light switch beside fan switch

I can’t tell but I think I see a bare copper middle right or possibly a green screw , this is the proper grounding point.  It looks to me that each switch has a black wire that goes to the same wire nut this would usually be the hot because if the hot was on the top of the left switch when you turn that off the other switch would not work. My guess is the fan has a separate conductor run for the light , prior to remote controls it was common to run 2 circuits to a fan 1 for the fan 1 for the lights so either or both could be on or off.


How can I install a ceiling fan, recessed lights, and receptacles on the same circuit?

If you can run a new power line to one of the outlets, it may be an easy way to re-use the rest of the existing wiring without having to break walls open too much (less than if you run a new wire from the switch to the ceiling boxes).

The feed would essentially come from the outlets, to the switch, then to the lights/fan, and the existing feed would no longer be used.

You might need to cut an access hole below one of the outlets and then fish a line from underneath, or cut a hole on the wall opposite the outlet, or if you're really lucky, one backs onto an unfinished space. It's very hard to say without actually being there.

Some tips:

Try to avoid opening exterior walls, as they have insulation and vapour barrier that makes repair much more complicated.
If you can get at the wire from the opposite side in a closet or similar discreet space, that can make things much easier.
Unless you painted very recently and have leftover paint, even color matching you probably won't get it 100%, and if you just paint over a spot on the wall, this is usually noticeable. Instead, if you paint the whole wall, the fact that adjacent walls (around corners) don't match 100% is not noticeable. Keep this in mind when choosing where to cut (eg, choose smallest walls possible).
It may also be possible to get at the wire somewhere directly:

If outlets cross doorways, there's a good chance the wire runs under the floor, and if it's an unfinished ceiling underneath, you can tap into the wire there.
You might also be able to get at the wire in the wall, but this may be a bit of a guessing game. Non-contact circuit detectors (many stud finders have these) can help. Cut a small hole to inspect before cutting a bigger one to work in.
You'll probably need two junctions to have enough slack. Keep in mind all j-boxes must be permanently accessible, so you may need to add an outlet or blank faceplate to make this work.

Small variation is you could disconnect the outlets from the switch, and keep the circuit you drew for the switches/lights in place exactly as-is. This could be good depending on how you want circuits loaded out (eg, the lights/fan separate from the outlets) and what you have available -- it's very hard to say for certain without being there.


What gauge fence post should I use for a 36" wide wooden gate?

Assuming that they are round metal poles that are generally used for chainlink, the 'corner' poles are what you generally use for a gate. You pretty much use corner poles anytime you terminate a run of any kind, and a gate opening is a termination. The actual gauge isn't going to matter so much as the diameter of the pole, you need to make sure your gate hardware will fit the pole. Since your are going with wood, the extra few bucks for the thicker gauge is probably worth it, the actual diameter should be about the same either way.

Also, make sure you measure the opening correctly before concreting the poles in.  Depending on the hardware you use you may need to leave extra space.  For pre-fabricated chainlink gates, you need something like 39 inches for a 36 inch gate.  Since you are using wood, I assume you are fabricating it yourself, but you'll still want to make sure you leave plenty of room.


That is the right way to do it! A transfer switch to an ordinary subpanel. Remember to separate neutral and ground at all points.

You would use a 100A breaker.  The 100A is at 240V, so you could put 80A of 240V heaters onto that breaker/sub.   (because you must derate heater loads by 20%).

At 120V it is good for both legs. That is, with 120V loads, you can put 100A  onto pole L1, and another 100A onto pole L2.  (assuming they are loads that do not need derate).

Make sure to get a Rather Large panel. You will find your generator can support a lot more circuits than you might think.  Also, plan for a whole space per circuit: use of "twin/duplex" double-stuff breakers cannot be relied on, because most circuits will in the future need AFCI, GFCI or both, and those specialty breakers are not made in double-stuff.

The subpanel can have any amp rating 100A or larger - 225A is fine.   That panel does not need a main breaker, and if it has one, the size doesn't matter.  The breaker in the main panel protects it, the wire to it, and the transfer switch.

If you don't need an automatic transfer switch, some panel makes (Siemens) allow very cheap transfer switches - using a factory kit that straps two backfeed breakers together, and interlocks them so they can't both be on at once.  For Code compliance reasons, (well for safety reasons),

the breakers must be physically bolted/strapped down so they can't come out like a normal breaker.
The interlock (that keeps both breakers turning on at once) should not be disabled if you remove the panel cover.  That precludes many aftermarket kits that bolt to the panel cover.


Trying to add a light at the end of a 3-way switch

Good grief, nobody could expect to understand that tangle of red, black and white.  Let's get some red and purple tape and actually mark the wires for what they do.

Well that's a lot better.. White is actual neutral.  Black is actual hot.  Red is switched hot.  Purples are 2 messengers - they're the same, so there really isn't any need to distinguish them from each other.

I didn't color your extra wires.  Can you see a bit better how this is going to work -- or to be more precise, not work?

The original lamp is getting its switched-hot filtered through another lamp.  This is called putting them in series.  They're not designed for that.


How do I insulate a strip foundation from below?

I have doubts that you are expressing yourself clearly or if, so , that you grasp the concept that concrete does not mind water a bit (if you are just building a wall, not a foundation that encloses a buried space as normal for a building, where is the water going to go that causes you a problem, down in the ground?)

In any case, you can lay a sheet of plastic on the base before pouring concrete. But I seriously doubt you need to do that or any other waterproofing, if you are just putting in a foundation for a free-standing wall. If that's not what you are doing, have another try at explaining what you are doing, please (edit your question) since that appears to be what you are describing with "strip foundation"

If you are building a normal, space-enclosing foundation wall, you can also lay plastic or EDPM rubber under the entire floor area, but the main thing is to lay drainage pipe outside the foundation, slightly below the floor level to remove water from the foundation area - depending on films or coatings alone is prone to failure against high water pressure - removing the bulk of the water is the most effective method to prevent water in the basement.


How can I remove humidity from a room without a dehumidifier?

You can purhcase products such as DampRid. It is availabe in various size packages and will work to passively dehumidify a space.

You do not want to use a fan or any active air mover to attempt to dry the window space. This can enable the mold to spread to other areas.

Mold is dangerous to your health and this issue should be handled soon. One point of concern is that the mold may be in the drywall surrounding the window. The mold issue should be brought up to your building manager. If they do not take corrective actions, you should speak to the local public health department.


How risky is it to cap an old (metal system) sprinkler head?

The chances of breaking the pipe with equipment are the same whether capped or not. You can minimize the risk further by digging out the riser and plugging the fitting below.

If you live in an area subject to hard freezing, you will need to make provision for draining any lateral line serving the former head. Lines are usually cleared by blowing them out in the fall. A capped riser will have mostly air, but any horizontal pipe serving only that riser will fill with water and need to be cleared. This may just be a matter of removing the cap before clearing the lines.


Non-glass options for custom shower door

Polycarbonate is used in many industrial machines I used to work on. It is like a very strong alternative to acrylic, it doesn't shatter easily and can be gotten in a good clear grade. More expensive than acrylic but alot tougher

It was used for windows on oil reservoirs and for interlocked guards on production lines where you could see the product through the clear polycarbonate and then i
Access if required. The staff were a nightmare for treating things like sh*t and you always knew an acrylic sheet from a polycarb one because acrylic ones were always cracked.


Is this door closer okay, maladjusted, or broken?

There are a few adjustment that are pretty easy to do, once you figure out which adjustment screw does what, That can be sorted out by trial and error. There should be one on the other end too. One is backcheck, which I could never figure out what it really did, and the other two are closing speed, which is good in the video, and the last one is latch speed which is supposed to slow the door down so it does not slam from the closing speed. That appears to need adjusting if anything. The door could stand silencers too (jamb mounted door bumpers).

Oil on the hinge pins would be a nice touch too.

To answer you question, yes it is correctable, usually with an adjustment on either one of the three screws you will see. Two of which you have pictured.


It depends on if your tile was properly installed.  More variation than you would hope in that regard.

Floor applications

The layers of a properly-installed tile floor would be as follows, from top to bottom:

Tile and grout
Thinset mortar (the "glue" you are talking about)
Cement backer board
Thinset mortar
Subfloor
Floor joists

Thinset mortar is usually polymer-fortified to give it some flexibility, which helps prevent the movement of the substrate from affecting the tiles.

Backer board (such as Durock, HardieBacker, or WonderBoard) is like a sheet of concrete that is fairly impervious to water (though not water-tight).  It doesn't rot, warp, grow mold, or deteriorate when subject to water or moisture, and is a more stable substrate for tile than wood-based products like drywall, plywood, or OSB.

The backer board is always screwed to the subfloor, but I was taught to also bed it in a layer of thinset - sort of a "glue and screw" method for cement board.  The thinset helps fill in any irregularities in the subfloor so that the resulting tile installation is solid.

Beneath all that is the subfloor sheeting, attached to the floor joists.  If the subfloor is concrete, you don't need the backer board and can adhere the tile directly to the concrete.  In either case, the floor isn't strictly waterproof, but little enough water will make its way to the subfloor that it poses no problems.  Proper sealing of the grout will minimize the amount of water that makes its way through the first layer of floor.

Wet-area applications

In a shower or other area that is repeatedly exposed to water, you'll have a waterproof lining or membrane between the backer board and the studs (in the walls) and in the shower pan to prevent water from getting into places it shouldn't be.

Edit per comments:

Sometimes you'll see shower wall tiles adhered directly to drywall or "green board", which is a more resilient type of drywall.  It's not the best practice due to moisture concerns with the paper facing, but it's not always a problem.  Given the option to replace the drywall or green board with cement backer board (such as during a remodel), I personally would always choose to do so for peace of mind.

Sometimes, in place of a liner, a membrane-forming coating like RedGuard is used under the tile and mortar on the walls and floor.  When used correctly, this can replace the traditional sheet products.

Wall applications

Wall tiles are more commonly installed with a product called "mastic", which is more of an adhesive than thinset mortar.  It doesn't build or bed as well as thinset, so it's generally not suitable for floors or particularly heavy tiles.  You'll commonly find it used to adhere decorative tile backsplashes directly to drywall, which is acceptable as long as the drywall is sealed (painted).

I think that covers most of it.  If I've made any grave errors, please let me know.  My source for all of this is my former direct supervisor at Home Depot, who was a professional floor layer for about 25 years.  I no longer work there.


You could cut a notch (like 1/4 pipe depth) in the pipe and just wrap the wire around the pipe, tucking it into the notch.


How can I remove a vanity backsplash without damaging ceramic tile?

Acetone is great for dissolving glue and adhesive. Try pouring some along the top of the backsplash and let it soak in between the wall and backsplash. After about 15 minutes try to pry it gently with a mud knife, looking for a little loosening of the backsplash. Apply more acetone as needed. Good luck.


How do I put a brick wall where an exterior window is?

Two ways to tie in the new brickwork. Either carefully remove the 'half' bricks up each side of the opening and build into them as you go (but the mortar will always 'jump out' at you in the 'toothings').

Or, build inside the opening as it is and use a propriety metal tie in bracket and a screw or two. You'll need one each side every few courses (some go every 3 and some every 6). You have the option to set this new brickwork panel back (or forward I guess), 10mm works okay. This has the effect of making the new brickwork look like a feature panel and a little more 'deliberate' than going flush. Some folks leave the joint around the new brickwork empty and fill it with a caulk and backer foam to remove the risk of the mortar cracking around the new panel. In my experience if the brickwork is built up in warm/good weather this is not likely to be much of a problem.


Can a standard outlet be protected by a GFCI outlet?

Absolutely possible, if done correctly.
First, the simple test

Make sure (nightlights or any other small devices) that both receptacles work (i.e., GFCI and regular in kitchen; or GFCI and regular in bathroom)
Press the TEST button.
Verify that BOTH receptacles have lost power.

If only the GFCI receptacle loses power then either the regular receptacle is not wired to the GFCI correctly, or it is on a different circuit altogether. In both of these locations, it is important that all receptacles be GFCI protected, so this is an important thing to test (and to fix if needed).
How it works
A typical GFCI receptacle includes two sets of screw terminals. One is labeled LINE and the other is labeled LOAD. The LINE side is connected to the incoming hot & neutral wires. The LOAD side is connected to any downstream protected receptacles. The GFCI electronics detect any imbalance on the attached receptacle and on anything connected using the LOAD terminals.
What if it doesn't work?
If the regular receptacle doesn't turn off when the GFCI is tested then there is a small possibility that the GFCI is defective. But far more likely is that the regular receptacle is connected on the LINE side instead of the LOAD side. That may be double wires on screws (allowed in some cases, depending on design of the receptacle) or by connecting incoming hot, GFCI LINE hot and a third wire to the regular receptacle together, and the same connection with the neutral wires as well. If that's the case, you just need to move the wires going to the regular receptacles over to the LOAD side of the GFCI receptacle.


Where do I connect my C wire from my thermostat when there are two transformers?

Okay... After reviewing your new photos, I think I have it figured out.

This is what your system looks like

You'll have to excuse the glitter pens, it's the only thing I could find on my wife's desk.

It's pretty simple actually. When a thermostat calls for heat, the valve for that zone opens, and the boiler is also signaled via the auxiliary switch in the valve.

To get a C wire to one or more of the thermostats, you'll simply run a wire from the other side of the transformer on the wall.

NOTE: If this diagram is accurate, the white wire to the thermostat is R, while the red wire is W.

The original wire from the transformer should be connected to the R terminal on the thermostat, while the new C wire should be connected to the C terminal on the new thermostat. This should supply power to the thermostat, and allow it to operate as normal.

The way your thermostat is currently wired, you'll have to swap the white and red wires to get it to work. So white will go to R, and red will go to W.

To make this fit a more common wiring style, I'd probably rewire it a bit. So that the red wires going to the thermostat, connected the transformer and the R terminals. And the white wires connected from the zone valves to the W terminals on the thermostats.

Rewired to fit a more common style.

Then you'll run the blue wire from the white transformer lead, up to the C terminal on the thermostat.


I gather you have the panel cover off?
First, you cannot test any GFCI device while anything is plugged into it or on the LOAD terminals.  All wires must be removed from the LOAD terminals.
Once that’s done, we can now do a clear test of the GFCI.  For a breaker, turn it all the way off, then all the way on.  Don’t try to go straight from “tripped” to “on”, that will not work.  Once it is on, then you press the TEST button and see if you get a trip.  Then to OFF then to ON, to reset.
If the GFCI breaker responds correctly when you do that, then the breaker is not faulty.  It is doing its job, tripping due to a fault in wiring or devices. Now you divide and conquer.
The trick with “divide and conquer” with GFCI is that you must isolate BOTH hot AND neutral.  Simply breaking hot is not enough.
You must also be very careful in boxes that have multiple circuits in them.  For instance, sometimes a multi-light switch box has circuit 1’s power coming into it to run some switches, and then a switch loop for a light from circuit 2.  Goober says “I want to put a smart switch on that switch-loop”, so uses the always-hot and switched-hot from the switch loop, and steals neutral from circuit 1.  GFCIs won’t tolerate that.


Old wiring in house has cable with 2 white wires and one black. Trying to install new ceiling fan

In the absence of any fuether detail, the wires you disconnected from whatever used to be installed are the wires that you should connect to your new fan.

That wire looks to be in poor condition, you should consult an electrician to verify it is safe.


Can I convert a window A/C unit in to a pool-water cooled system?

There is no Yes or No to this question.

Chlorine & Copper

You will have to keep your chlorine and acidity levels in constant harmony, otherwise the acidity will corrode and pit your copper tubing. Using aluminum would be exponentially worse. It the cooler your pool water gets, the worse effects it would also have on the copper. You can find good information from the EPA.

BTU's

A BTU is a British Thermal Unit. It takes one BTU to increase the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Farenheit. The average swimming pool is 20' x 30' x 5'. That would mean that the average swimming pool is about 22,500 gallons of water. Since one gallon of water weighs 8.34 lbs., the water in an average sized pool would weigh 187,650.

That means it would take 187,650 BTU's to increase that pool temperature by one degree. Since you would only have about 10% of that amount of BTU's required - it is very likely that the pool would simply absorb and disperse the heat transferred from your residence and never actually raise the temperature of the pool. Gullberg & Jansson has some great information on their website about heating pools.

Refrigerant and Line Set

In general it would take about 0.6 oz of refrigerant for each foot of copper tubing above 15'. Different manufacturers have different specifications of course. Considering it is a window unit, it would already have less refrigerant than say, a mini split unit.

The average 1.5 ton, or 18,000 BTU, mini split unit take about 3-4 lbs. of refrigerant and usually have about 15' of line set available 'in the box.' Depending on how long your copper tubing would be, you could be seeing so much heat loss just within the copper tubing itself, it would never "make it" to the pool. Plus, all of the possible extra refrigerant would be so hard on a compressor that small, compressor failure would always be right around the corner. Some good information can be found at ACHR News.

Legal Activity

In order to 'work' with Refrigerant, in fact, even buy (most) of it, you have to be EPA Section 608 Certified. There are 4 types of certification. There is Type I, Type II, Type III, and Universal. There is also EPA Section 609, but that is for motor vehicles. Without certification, you run the risk of EPA prosecution. And before you think that you will never get caught, there is a reward for turning people in. Information can be found at the EPA website.

Tools You Need

Recovery Machine
Recovery Tank
Vacuum Pump
Manifold Gauges
Low-Loss Fittings
MAPP or Oxy/Acetylene Torch Kit
Pipe Cutter
Pipe Reamer
Sand Paper/Emery Cloth
Silver or Silver Phosphate Brazing Rods
General Mechanics Tools
Possible a Bucket of Ice and/or Bucket of Warm Water
Various Other Tools Depending on the Task at Hand

As you can see, there is a lot of specific tools and machines that you need to perform the job, not only legally, but safely. They are also very expensive to the average person. It is not uncommon for a vacuum pump to cost between $150 - $500. You can double and triple that cost for a Recovery Machine. There is a reason that most technicians work for a company that provides all of the tools required. It is hard to start off in the industry self-employed when you require certifications and tools that all cost money.

Conclusion

I would find a local HVAC/R Technician and run the idea across him. Ask him to come out and see what the job would entail. Ask him for advice. Ask him for a material cost and/or a list of what it would take to get the job done. Remember, this is only estimate stuff - because he may just tell you it isn't worth it, isn't possible with the equipment provided, or would be much more hassle than the intended benefit.

You could hire me to do it! But that would cost you a plane ticket, a case of beer, and a good home cooked meal before I even consider it.

About Myself

I am a...

Section 608 Universal HVAC Technician
Section 609 MVAC Technician
Certified Commercial Mold Inspector
Certified Indoor Air Quality Technician
Certified Green HVAC/R Technician
CO2 Refrigerant Safe Handling Certified
R-410A Refrigerant Safe Handling Certified
Certified Home Inspector
Member of American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air
Conditioning Engineers
Associate of Institute of Refrigeration
Member of International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
Member of International Association of Certified Indoor Air
Consultants


Is it wise to cut a long trench in concrete slab foundation?

This is done all the time in slab-on-grade houses. The slab is there to give you a nice surface to park on, but is not required for the structural integrity of the garage.

So, sure, go right ahead.


Why would a circuit breaker not trip if I accidentally shorted hot to neutral?

That noise was a wire or junction/splice somewhere vibrating and heating up. It could have also been the breaker (trying to) trip. There's a good possibility that if you turn the breaker off, it will refuse to turn back on.

At a minimum, you should replace that breaker. You should also inspect that entire length of the wiring on that circuit as you may have melted a wirenut or wire insulation somewhere.

If this were my house (and my family's life) I would call an electrician and have them inspect for damage.


Can I retrofit a ground wire so I can install a 4 Prong outlet for my dryer?

Since you have 3 insulated conductors I would add an equipment ground conductor this is legal now. 3 wire systems are still legal and do not require update but it is a good idea to have a 4 wire system this is safer. Make sure the new ground is connected to the ground bus if this is coming from a sub panel and the neutral is on the neutral bus. If in a main panel they may go to the same bus as they are tied together.


Gravel will not do you any justice. It is just a cheap way to go deep in ground to get to good bearing soil if it needs to go really deep. Pole barns, for example, are built with 6X6s set in the concrete 4' deep, for a porch roof if it is small enough it won't need 6X6s but 4X4s will suffice if the roof is not too high.


TL;DR - I think the Porch & Garage were originally together - either both switched via the Porch switch or both always on via the Garage connection. Separated and working fine. Connecting the black made a mess and tripped the breaker and fried the switch.

Here is my theory:

Originally there was a regular (not motion sensor) light on the garage eave. It was powered from the porch light:

Panel -> Switch -> Porch -> Garage

At some point later on, the previous owner decided to put in a motion sensor light for the garage, but still wanted the porch light switched. It was easier to run power directly to the Garage than to run a new cable to the Porch. New setup:

Panel -> Switch -> Porch -> Garage abandoned
Panel -> Garage Motion

When you connected the wires with the switch off you ended up with:

Panel -> Garage Motion -> Porch

and both lights were on, despite the switch being off.

Then you turned the switch on and you got:

Panel -> Garage Motion -> Porch -> Switch -> Panel

which resulted in a short circuit and tripped the breaker and fried the switch.

Since the switch was now fried, now you are back to: Panel -> Garage Motion -> Porch and both lights are on.

If my theory is correct, then yes, you should cap those wires but then also you will find that the switch is dead - i.e., if you disconnect the wires from it and check continuity you will find that it does not complete a circuit no matter what position it is in.

There are some other possibilities, but the end result (for any scenario I can think of) is that you fried the switch (which is cheap & easy to replace) by joining together two previously separate circuits. Separate them (black & white) and replace the switch and you should be OK. Normally it is "all the white neutrals go together". However, in this case they are two different circuits and you could even some day decide to put the Porch on one breaker and the Garage on a different breaker - and then you absolutely would not be able to combine those whites because they would be different neutrals, so separate them now.

If my theory is correct, then after separating the wires and replacing the switch, you should find 120V on the "abandoned" wires when the switch is on.


What do you call this old pipe to bath tap join and how do I remove it?

It's called a tap connector (obvious now I've found it), and you should be able to unscrew it. You can see one here

It's the bottom nut you need to be turning. It's part of a joint that attaches the pipe to the tap.

Once you have this off you should be able to remove the tap as normal.

If it's stuck then something like WD40 or penetrating oil might help. Failing that carefully heating the nut with a heat gun might expand the various parts enough to loosen them. Take precautions to avoid getting direct heat onto the bath (it appears to be acrylic).

A more drastic approach would be to take a hacksaw to the thread to separate it that way.


White lithium safe to lubricate a dryer?

I think you have or had same problem I am having which is not a bearing at all. It is the glides (small plastic strips) that the outter drum rides on have either dried out or in my case 1 is missing.

I came here looking for the same answer you were about the silicone due to the amount of time it takes to deliver parts and the fact that the family is going crazy.


How do I open the back of a gustavsberg toilet?

Guestavsberg has product manuals available on their website:

http://www.gustavsberg.com/28081.asp

Find the page for the specific toilet, then from the product's page, go to 'downloads' and look for the link labeled 'assembly', which also includes information about servicing it.

It looks like some of them have two bolts connecting in from underneath and then you can slip the whole cover off; others have round thing on the top that you press down then give a quarter turn and pull up.


Should my unfinished siding be left uncovered when it rains?

I think you're asking about sheathing, not siding. What we see above the brick are oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing panels. They should not be left exposed to the weather for more than a few weeks (or a few rain events, whichever comes first).

Ideally, housewrap and other components of the drain plane are installed immediately to protect the sheathing and other weather-sensitive parts of your home.


What is an air conditioner compressor hard start kit and how does it work?

Residential A/C compressors are generally single phase motors and all single phase motors do not naturally rotate on their own, they need something to START them rotating. There are numerous ways to do that, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. For A/C compressors, they use what's called a "Capacitor Start" method wherein a capacitor is put into the motor circuit for the first second or so in order to get it to start rotating, then once it has begun rotating in the correct direction it is taken out of the circuit again with a device called a "Potential Relay" (in most cases) that knows when the motor gets to speed.

A "Hard Start" kit is just a bigger capacitor for the motor and new a Potential Relay suitable for that bigger capacitor. The working principle behind his recommendation is that your existing motor starting capacitor was sized for when the motor was new and fresh, now the bearings are wearing and there is more friction, so that original capacitor is not strong enough to make the motor begin rotating. Some people also seem to believe that capacitors get "weak" over time (they don't; they either work or they fail, there is no "weakening").

There is some debate as to the validity of that concept though, because motor people know that over sizing a capacitor does not make up for bad mechanics and in fact comes with a new set of problems, otherwise the motor mfr would have just used a larger capacitor to begin with. The original purpose of a "Hard Start" kit was actually intended to deal with situations where your line voltage is too low for the motor to start, so the larger capacitor gave it a boost. Sometimes it can be true that when your A/C was first installed, the line power was higher and now so many people in your area have added A/C units and/or other big loads that it is causing a voltage drop that you didn't used to have. So my theory is that because adding a Hard Start kit will fix that problem sometimes, some HVAC technicians have taken to looking at them as the "cure-all" for any sort of problems. But if your compressor is truly wearing out, a Hard Start kit will, at best, only prolong the inevitable. It might get you through the summer, but be prepared for having to have the compressor replaced sooner than later.

Unless you can determine that your line voltage is indeed lower than normal. Your utility or an electrician can tell you that.


Why would the lights on a ceiling fan not work after a power outage even though the fan does?

Could be a number of things.

I've had ceiling fans that are on two different circuits: one for the fan, and one for the light. It could be that the breaker is thrown on one circuit but not on the other.

It could also be that a surge caused the outage, and that burned out the bulb, the switch inside the fan, the switch on the wall, or any add-ons such as wireless remotes.

It could be that the light is on a 3-way switch, and someone flipped the other switch in trying to get the lights to work during the outage.


Detaching wires from an outlet doesn't seem to affect others on the circuit

You are going to have to identify every outlet on the circuit you want to place the GFCI on.  Just turn off the breaker and test with anything,  A simple lamp will do.   Most likely you'll find the head of circuit for your GFCI location. EDIT:  The wires in the outlet boxes aren't pig tailed are they?  You should have 2 blacks, 2 whites and grounds connected to each outlet.  If pig tailed, that would explain why other outlets aren't affected.


Insulating Behind Completed Kitchen Cabinets

Without a do-over, it seems like the best you could do is address the convective loss (the flow of heat out, or cold in, via those openings).
I'm curious how much improvement you'd have by just taking some unfaced fiberglass insulation and stuffing it into the opening, maybe enough to partially fill the area just up from the opening, but the less compressed, the better.
The gaps look too big to try closed cell spray foam, otherwise that would be my next suggestion.


Is there anything else I should be concerned about while run low voltage landscaping cable through an exterior wall?

40 watts at 12 vac is about 4 amp which leaves plenty of headroom on the 12ga cable (which is normally rated for 20 amps (with heat loss and safety factors included). But what if your wire gets cut? Shorted? the worst case max current that a 300 watt transformer can put out (if it really is a 300 watt not a 310 watt or 315 watt) is 25 amps which is flirting with the danger limit of the cable. Soi I would either put a 15 or 20 amp fuse on the secondary side of the transformer, use 10ga wire, or put a 2amp fuse on the primary side of the transformer. 2 amp fuses could be a trick to find, 10 ga is expensive, but a 15 or 20 amp automotive fuse will work just fine considering it is only 12 v. And since you are pulling less than 5 amps a smaller fuse would be fine.


Your panel only needs to be rated for the overcurrent protection feeding it, so it only needs to be rated for 30A, but you could use a 60A, 100A or even a 200A.


It's your old dimmer, motion sensor, lighted switch, smart switch etc.

It isn't made to play with LEDs.

A dimmer, smart switch etc. is an active machine which requires power to operate itself (i.e. always-hot and neutral).  Many old installations use what we Yanks call a "switch loop", containing always-hot, switched-hot, sometimes earth and never neutral.   (Our Codes now require provisioning of a neutral).

Therefore older active switches (and some new ones) power themselves by "placing themselves in series" with the load.  When the load is off, they depend on a unique characteristic of incandescents that an unlit incandescent is a lot like a dead short.  The active switch   can leak small amounts of power through the incandescent without lighting it up.

LED and CFL have switching power supplies which do not like that (unless they are specifically designed for that). When you removed the last incandescent, you placed the active switch and LEDs in combat with each other, hence the RFI.

You did not state which special ability the switch has, so it may not be important to you. Swap it for a regular switch and done.  Or, put one incandescent back in. Or get a modern LED-rated version of that thing and matching LEDs.


What is this soft, sticky wood finish and how do I remove it?

By "White spirit", do you mean turpentine or mineral spirits? If that had no effect on it... My best guess would be that it's improperly cured polyurethane, or water-based polyurethane that wasn't mixed properly. Additionally, polyurethane doesn't take to pine well and is pretty resistant to being removed chemically, so there's another pointer in that direction.

You can try denatured alcohol. If it comes up with denatured alcohol, it's probably improperly mixed shellac.

What I'd probably do if I were you would be to sand it down completely back to bare wood, first with 80 grit and then 120 and 220 grits. I know it's a pain in the butt, but it'll provide the best finish overall. Then stain it and finish it again with something that isn't polyurethane... if you stain it, I'd recommend a lacquer finish like Deft, and then a really nice set of absorbent coasters so that you don't keep getting the surface wet. ;) Or if you do use polyurethane, use a satin spray in a rattlecan and bring it indoors to a moisture and temperature controlled environment to cure for 48 hours before you put it back into use. And your last option would be to paint it (after sanding back to bare wood, or it won't adhere!) with an oil-based enamel and a bit of penetrol.


How can I fill the gaps between barn wood siding boards?

Do not try to use caulk between all the boards. It will look like crap and on top of that, like you already indicated, it will be hard to put in there in the first place.

The proper approach to this is to install vertical strips of wood over the cracks from the outside. You can choose to use something like 1x2 inch cedar strips. Or if your shed looks like it is 100 years old and you want to maintain that look you can search out a source of recycled barn boards and rip them into strips to use on your shed.

The vertical strips are called batten strips. Often folks use even wider strips that may be 1x3". Here is how a typical structure might look:


What is the official name for wiring hole stops/plugs and where can I buy them?

They are called "wire grommets" or "electrical bulkhead fittings", and if you search for those (or some combination of those words) you should find what you're after.

I typically seal large exterior holes with expanding foam, and smaller holes with silicone caulk. I've run many cat5 and coax cables through walls, and generally keep the hole just slightly larger than the cable, and it seals up fine. You can leave some slack on both sides (I typically leave a drip loop on the outside and a coil of a few inches on the inside where it's not visible), and that's all the flexibility needed. Silicone caulk has enough give that it is fine for this application.

For a larger cable or a couple cables, I'll go through the exterior wall with a conduit, then seal around the conduit with foam and the outside with silicone (expanding foam breaks down under UV, so it's best to cover the exterior bit with some opaque caulk). At the end of the conduit I'll put a wire grommet in a small box (a 90 degree PVC pull box works great).


Should I remove 4" of cellose insulation before adding fiberglass insulation?

I would leave the cellulose in place and use unfaced batts so moisture is not trapped. A couple extra inches over the top would help reduce the heat from conducting through the wood.


Return vent in unfinished basement causing first floor to become pressurized

Your main trunk duct may be undersized for the return air on the main level. If this is a new system that used the existing ductwork the fan speeds may be set for the highest efficiency.
In my opinion the system is not properly sized or set up correctly not enough info but one of the 2 is true.
For a fix:
It looks like a Rheem but not sure, the Rheem furnaces / air handlers I have installed have multiple motor speed taps. Running the system at a lower speed should help reduce the pressure imbalance.
Adding a larger intake trunk duct to pull air out of the upper floors would be a option since there are already 2.
If you add heat to the basement this will eliminate most if not all of the imbalance but I would absolutely want a damper on the supply duct for the basement so you can balance the flows or much the heat / ac will end up in the basement.
Even a single heat duct down there may reduce the pressure imbalance.
I would check to see if you have a multi tap motor that could be run at a slower speed if you are not ready to add heat downstairs.
I just re read and the system is 3 years old so you are past the point where you can usually get something done for free.


How to install an Insteon switch on a multi-way circuit

Insteon is very simple to install.

The concept of 3-way, 4-way, or multi switch circuits doesn’t exist in the traditional “wired” sense.

Use the 2466 in the last switch position before the load.  The red wire from the switch goes to the load.

Now you can use additional 2466’s (or many other insteon devices) at the other locations.  Basically the 2466 needs hot, neutral and ground.   In these other locations you cap the red wire on the switch because the switch isn’t actually switching a load.  Don’t have a hot and neutral at the switch location?  You re-wire the circuit to make it happen for your case.  You had 2 travelers before, you re-wire the circuit to make those old travelers hots and neutrals.

Now to get your multiway switching to work you utilize the insteon linking process.  This is best done thru your hub, but there is also a painstaking manual linking process described in insteon manuals.  Hint: if done thru a hub: for straight multi-way switching add each device individually to the hub, then create a scene and add all the devices as a “controller”.  (A controller is also a responder, and in a standard multi-way switching scene every device should be a “controller” and no device should be classified as “responder”)

(Disclaimer: the only two non-insteon switches in my house are both garbage disposal switches.  I've encountered every wiring possibility at some point. If you need more info ask away and I'll edit)


In my opinion it's better to use oil paint over an oil finish, but with the right primer you can use latex / water based.

I'd go over it with fine steel wool and a little mineral spirits to prep the surface either way.


I don't know if you would glue it down if you are only having it as a temporary, you can cut it and lay it and it will do the job though.

You can silicone the edges and it will leave a nice finish and it is quite easily removed when you decide something permanent.


How can I finish a ceiling around a propane gas line to fireplace?

In a case like this you can cove the corner or use crown molding.
Both methods leave the corner open and different sizes are available pre made.
The toughest part with crown molding is the compound bevel cut at the corners. As there is always some waste I cut in my corners and the match things with simpler cuts. Check it out makes a nice upscale look and hides pipe really well.


2nd floor laundry room drain spraying water up into room

It's clogged. Hire a plumber to snake it, or buy a snake and do it yourself. A simple drill mounted snake (about $10-$15) should do it. If you've never done it before watch some youtube videos explaining how first.

It's probably full of hair. Once you clear it make a point of periodically (every 6 months or so) taking off the drain cover in the shower and removing the built up hair.

The "Zip It Drain Cleaning Tool" works very well for removing hair. (And despite what they say it's not a one time use tool - they just wish you would think so.)

When snaking your goal is catching things and pulling them back up to you, not drilling a hole in the clog. If the snake doesn't turn easily immediately stop the drill - you don't want to overstress the snake and break it in the line. Never EVER run the drill backwards with a snake - not even when removing the snake from the line!


Leveling joists for drywall installation

It's hard to say, I find myself noticing every imperfection that I'm responsible for. I don't easily notice imperfections in other people's work unless I'm looking for them. It looks like your joists are on about 24's so 1/4 inch per foot dip in the middle might not be too noticeable as long as it's level'ish above the doors. The doors offer a reference to level, very close to the ceiling so they are the primary area of focus.

Keep in mind 1/4 inch per foot is plumbing drain slope.

I'd definitely go with 5/8 drywall especially if you on 24's and shim where necessary. And avoid drywall seams around the areas in question.

It boils down to who it's for. If it's your house and you can live with it, it's fine. If it's a customer you're going to have to consider what they'll think.

Try having a look at other ceilings in the house or a friend's house and see if you notice any dips and then check with the big straight bar.


Need to identify wires coming from external AC Unit

Connect one to Y and the other to C -- it actually doesn't matter which one is which

On an ordinary air conditioner like yours, the Y and C wires going off to the outdoor unit connect directly to the coil of the compressor contactor (basically, a big switch that is turned on and off by an electromagnet).  Since they carry 24VAC to the coil to turn it on when the thermostat calls for cooling, that coil is polarity-insensitive (it has to be to operate on AC, after all).

As a result of this, it does not matter which wire in the air conditioner cable goes to Y and which goes to C, as long as one goes to Y and the other goes to C, and they're both hooked to the contactor coil on the other end.  So, go with your preference, or even flip a coin, when it comes to labeling!


Choosing the right machine screw for a threaded hole in a computer monitor mount

You already discovered the answer for your monitor.  I'll leave a general answer for others with a similar question.

The Video Electronics Standards Association has a set of standards for mounting flat panel displays like TVs and computer monitors.  It is usually referred to as simply the VESA Mounting Standard.  Pretty much any modern display that has built-in mounting holes complies with this standard.

The standard defines a hole pattern (usually rectangular, but larger sizes can have more than four holes and there can be a center hole), and screw specification (the screws are metric).  The best explanation I found of the details (outside of the actual standards), is this Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_Display_Mounting_Interface

The hole pattern and screw specification are based on the display's size and weight.  If you see a rectangular hole pattern and the measurement is consistent with the standard for a display of the size and weight of yours, it's a safe bet that its a VESA mount.  A quick summary of mount dimensions to check against:

(Click on image for more readable size) courtesy http://www.ergotron.com/en-us/support/vesa-standard

A more detailed table, including screw specifications, from Wikipedia:

Notes:

If a screen is heavier or larger than specified in table 1, it should use a larger variant from the table, for instance a 30-in LCD TV weighing more than 50 lb (23 kg) would need to use a part F mount.
The weight limits were unusually chosen as round numbers in kg or lb for different sizes.
The screw lengths for part C, D and E become whole numbers when adding a 2.6 mm thick bracket (which is how the standard describes them).
The screw lengths for part F are minimum / maximum / hole maximum, as in: M6 screws must go at least 9mm in but at most 10mm in, and the hole might not be deeper than 12mm.

The minimum length is important for strength.  The maximum length is also important.  You don't want the screw to force its way into the inside or to bottom out in the threaded insert so that it can't be properly tightened.  Some mounts come with screws that are longer than necessary and then use spacers behind the mount to correct the effective length.  If you use one of those screws as a guide at the hardware store, make sure you have any needed spacers.

There is additional detail, especially for larger sizes, in the Wikipedia article.

The VESA mount screws are likely to be different from those used to attach a stand for desktop or tabletop use.  Note that, particularly for larger displays, the display manufacturer is allowed to choose screws different from the standard.  If they do, they must provide the screws with the display, in which case you need to use the display manufacturer's screws in lieu of those supplied by the mount manufacturer and should have a sample.

If the display came with screws and you no longer have them, you might find a reference to their size in the product documentation or might be able to find the information online (or check with the manufacturer's customer support).  Otherwise, it's trial and error for the thread (for an initial estimate, you can compare the hole diameter of the threaded insert to a chart of screw dimensions).  I would refer to the VESA spec for the screw length, and verify that the threaded hole accommodates that length.


I would double check the manufacturer instructions they may state the mirror is the cover just like a light fixture when mounted. A cover plat makes a slight bulge and could crack the mirror depending on how it mounts.


If I may suggest an alternative since putting a hole in any roof is better avoided.

I have a 10/12 pitched roof and I use an extension ladder with a stand-off stabilizer to reach the peak.

The ladder is laid flat on the roof with the stabilizer pointing skyward. Extend the section and slide upward towards the peak and then flip the ladder so the stabilizer hooks over the peak.

Climb up the rungs which offer both hand and footholds. Once you’re at the peak, tie off your safety line, hoist a plank to lay on the opposite side of the peak and insert through the top rung. Lash it off or use pipe clamps and you’ve reinforced the setup. I have used it to rebuild chimneys, antenna work, placing hundreds of pounds of brick, etc... on it.


You would not install another layer of wood underlayment for your project. You'd apply the flooring pad directly over the cement layer.


wall heaters running even after thermostat reaches set temp

If you have hot water fan units it's common for the hot water to be controlled by the thermostat, but the fan in the unit is controlled by a switch that turns it on when the water to the unit gets hot, and off when the water gets cool, so the fan may run for some time after the circulation is shut off. i.e. that would be considered normal behavior.


Will my french drain clog/erode my soil if the pipe has holes on top?

I believe it will fill in.  My house had a 4" PVC pipe from the foundation to the septic tank, about 10 to 15 feet away.  Apparently, a plumber was out probing for the pipe with a steel rod (standard tool for this), and pierced the pipe without realizing it.  The pipe eventually filled in, and I had a whole lot of digging to do to fix it.


How can I replace pull switch lights with wireless remote receivers / switches?

Something like the Carlon HW2162 screw-in wireless remote switch can do the job. I used something similar to replace a pull chain in an attic. Now I can turn on the light at the door, and not have to stumble through the dark to the middle of the attic to find the pull cord.  It will set you back about $30. The installation requires no wiring and takes about 5 minutes.


How does this axial-flow propeller pump work?

actually you have a centrifugal pump with magnetic coupling

but your problem seem a bad priming job, ensure the entire pump does not have any air in it. if you are confident in the cleanliness of the water put the other end in your mouth and suck it up. then move the pump around to get all the air bubbles out.


Rod fell into overflow pipe of tub pop-up drain

These are cheap and a great addition to your toolbox.
Provided it’s long enough, this should get a grip on it.

.


Hopefully there was a notch drilled in the plate, so that when a wire staple is set it will pull the wire in behind the face of the drywall. It should have been cut out large enough to allow a metal plate to cover the wire to protect it, although it is unlikely there will be any nails or screws going into the corner right there, but you never know....

Anyway, after the wire is held in place with a staple, pack the slot with drywall mud if you prefer, but it will take a long time to dry, unless you use a fast setting type and scrape that flush with the wall, do not allow that to build up or sag. Add another layer of mud for a setting bed for the tape, whether it be paper or mesh. Set the tape over the whole slot, running it into the corner and out onto the wall and ceiling. It may be a little tricky, but you can do it. After that has set add you finish coats, let dry and sand smooth.


Why is my water heater's relief valve popping?

I suspect that one of you elements have gone to ground and is running away.  As the elements age the sheath will eventually split.  The elements always have 110-volts available.  This voltage will go to ground and drive current indefinitely. Recommend you renew the lower element.  Remove the lime deposits while you are at it.  Should be good to go.


I'd say that there are too many unknowns in regards to what your local jurisdiction mandates for burial and separation of utilities for anyone to answer with any certainty in your situation.  What might be legal in one town may be illegal in the next town over, so the only sure way of knowing how you can legally and safely bury your utilities is to talk to your local permitting authority.  I'm sure they have plenty of documentation for you to look through which should answer all of your questions.

If you just choose to blindly proceed without following guidelines and proper permits and inspections, you will most certainly not get a certificate of occupancy for your garage apartment, and likely you'll need to dig it up and do it again.  If you're in the rare situation where there are no permitting authorities, I still suggest following guidelines of a nearby authority for utility burial, just for safety's sake.

If nothing else, for any non-metal lines you run in trenches not in common with a metal line, bury with it a marking wire so that utility locators can easily find your buried utility lines in the future.

Scott


Does a second layer of OSB over a rotted layer cause weight or rot concerns?

Dryrot, unlike bug infestation, will stop when moisture stops. Plywood weighs 3.0 lbs. per square foot per inch of thickness. (OSB board could weigh slightly more because it has fewer voids and significantly more glue.)

So, adding a layer of 5/8" OSB board might add 2.0 lbs. per square foot at most...not significant, unless you live in a high snow zone or your roof structure has decayed too. (By the way, the Building Code allows up to 2 re-roofs before they all need to be torn off, which weigh about 4.0 - 6.0 per square foot depending on the type of shingle.)

A bigger issue for me would be what thickness of OSB board did they use? All roofing manufacturers require a minimum of 7/16". Less than that and you have no warranty...where the dryrot is located.

Also, do the nails penetrate both layers of roof sheathing or extend a minimum of 3/4" into solid wood? All this info is on each shingle wrapper.

In most jurisdictions, no Building Permit is required for re-roofing, (it's considered maintenance...that's why you don't need a permit for carpeting, painting, etc.) However, now they've replaced the roof sheathing (a structural item) and I'll bet they did not get a permit. So, who inspected the nailing of the new OSB roof sheathing? Big problem.


I would consider putting this type of box at the soffit where the outside wall meets the roof and drill at an angle into the attic space assuming your attic is accessible.  Then fish the interior wall.

You could also use PVC conduit which is paintable and strap it good as it will warp.


How do I shift a door's latch hole and strike plate up or down half an inch?

If you can, glue a plug into the latch hole and similarly drill out the existing screw holes with a 1/4" bit and glue plugs of 1/4" dowel into them.

Now you have a blank slate to re-locate the strike plate wherever you want to.  Use a spade bit for the latch hole (3/4" or 7/8" or 1" - use the whatever is closest to the size of the strikeplate hole).


Yes, bringing the crawl space into the conditioned space is generally recommended as a way to prevent crawlspace moisture problems (I assume this is what you mean by encapsulate).

This means:

sealing vents to the exterior
sealing the dirt floor with polyethylene sheeting (at least 6 mil), or concrete
creating vents between the living space and the crawlspace (ideally supply air to/from the space with HVAC ductwork), and
insulating the interior side of the crawlspace walls on (not necessary in climate zone 1 or 2; and preferably with board foam or spray foam because fiberglass doesn't do well with moisture).
probably a good idea to remove existing floor insulation

This will prevent humid outside air from coming into the crawlspace and condensing on cold surfaces, and prevent/reduce moisture from coming up through the dirt floor or walls. Your AC will also deliver cold air more effectively. Good site drainage is also key.

There are many good references on how to do this properly:

http://www.housingzone.com/crawlspaces-vent-or-not-vent

https://buildingscience.com/documents/bareports/ba-0401-conditioned-crawlspace-construction-performance-and-codes


How to dispose of a large full length mirror?

Craigslist (or equivalent) "free mirror, broken frame" with pictures. Or a low price, which sometimes works better than free even without the aspect below...

or

Set beside the street, sign "free" (if that does not work, set a price and hope someone steals it now that it has value, or be pleasantly surprised if someone actually pays the price. Or just start there.)


Toilet bubbling, foul smell, no known cause

It should be no surprise that the toilet dumps its contents into a sewer pipe inside your house, and the bottom of that sewer pipe is plumbed out into the city sewer system (or septic field if you have that instead).

Less well known is that the vertical sewer pipe usually extends all the way to the roof, where there is a vent.   Gases created by food and effluent decay will vent there, instead of doing what yours is doing.

It sounds like something has gone wrong with that system.


Can I get away with putting a 14W bulb into a 13W lamp?

It is never a good idea to exceed the ratings on a fixture. They are UL listed, in the USA, for the rating specified and that listing goes out the window when exceeded. The stickers I'm familiar with usually read something similar to: " WARNING! Do not exceed the listed rating".
The ratings for LED fixtures are more critical because of the electronics in the fixtures. There are transformers, rectifiers, capacitors, etc.,that are very sensitive to overloads. Subjecting the components to an 8% overload could blow them out or greatly reduce their life expectancy. Do yourself a favor and get the right bulb.


how do I replace an unknown brand casement window?

If your window is in good shape except for the fogginess of the glass, the insulated glass unit (IGU) can be changed out by a glass installer. They will make a house visit, or you can remove the sash and they will replace the IGU in their shop.

There are shops that will "fix" the old unit by drilling a hole in the glass and evacuating the moisture out of the cavity and leave a "breather hole" in the glass. I am sure this works, and a cheap fix too, but I would not hold my breath on this type of repair.


How can I keep the top of my dog ear fence level when the ground slopes?

You will likely have to make them out of 1"x8" x 8'.  If 5 1/2" wide would work, 1x6 would need no ripping to width.

Be sure to catch table saw/miter saw dust with a shop vac and a dust mask!  PT sawdust is toxic.

Be sure to use a compatible preservative on the top dog-ear cuts (where the untreated wood gets exposed). End grain is very susceptible to rot.


How to extend shelf life of already opened one-component silicone sealant or glue?

Much like the bolt suggestion, I found these at a hardware store several years ago and have used them regularly.  They are actually called caulk savers.  Unfortunately, I don't recall exactly where I found them, but I have seen them around from time to time.  I did use them to save some silicone at one point, but only for a few days, maybe a week or so.  I doubt it would work any better than a bolt or screw.  I don't have any scientific basis for the next thought, but my suspicion is that once silicone contacts air, it starts a slow irreversible curing process.

One other potentially useful bit of information I stumbled upon a while back was a tip for clearing a stopped up caulk tube nozzle.  Simply take a utility knife and split the nozzle long-ways.  Clear all the dried material from the split nozzle.  Then just close it up and wrap it tightly with electrical tape.  I have done this several times and it works great.


Can I lean a ladder against tempered glass without damaging the window?

Even if the windows were super thick, it wouldn't be strong enough to handle the pressure exerted by a properly positioned ladder.

A ladder is supposed to be sloped 25%, like this:

With someone standing near the top of the ladder, that means roughly 20% of his weight is directed as lateral force, directly into the wall or window, conveyed by the points of the corners.  That could easily be hundreds of PSI, enough to crack almost any glass.  That force is temporarily multiplied as each step is taken with something like acceleration and deceleration (this is the basics of physics kinematics, F = ma).

Wrapping the corners of the ladder with something soft (like a thick towel) would greatly reduce the pressure by spreading its force over a much larger contact area.  However, the same total force is still applied, and that could well exceed the loading limit of the glass or its frame.

Leaning against glass is a high risk, low benefit undertaking.  If the window breaks and the ladder moves, will that make you fall off?  Will sharp, heavy pieces of glass fall onto you or be blasted into your face and eyes?  Will you fall onto a window shard still held vertical in the frame?

There are many solutions which are easy, painless, and relatively inexpensive:

Lean the ladder beside the window
Get a longer ladder which can rest on the wall above the window
With climbing gear, belay yourself from above
Rent scaffolding, a cherry picker, or a self-supporting ladder like an A-frame or orchard ladder.