In your specific case, no, because the labeling is wrong (or you just can't get what you want)

Looking at the photos on HD.ca, it is clear enough that the panel is not labeled for service in the US, as it would either need a cCSAus mark, or a UL mark alongside the CSA mark, in order to be usable in the US as well as Canada.

Generally speaking? I'm not sure

I am not certain if one could make a binational loadcenter assembly that was listed and labeled cULus or cCSAus; it depends on how harmonized UL 67 (the UL standard for panelboards) is with its Canadian counterpart.

As it turns out, there is an easy way to do this after all, so you can get what you need

Fortunately for us, there is a way out of this while staying within the QO loadcenter line.  The split-bus QO generator loadcenter (aka the QO122X26M200PC) has its backfed/interlocked breakers about halfway down the panel, which isn't compatible with the traditional QO backfeed retainers that attach to the main interior mounting screw located just above the branch stabs.  So, Square-D had to develop a different retainer kit for that panel, the QOCGKX, which attaches to the accessory mount points on the right side of the interior (one screw, one clip).  Fortunately for us, while the accessory mount point configuration on QO loadcenter interiors varies, there are other QO interiors that provide a configuration compatible with the QOCGKX, with a screw and clip combination open on the right side of the loadcenter.

For this approach, you'll need:

A QO124L125PGC loadcenter (if you need more spaces for standby circuits, you can use a 42- or 54-space, 225A, main lug loadcenter instead)
A QO350SWN breaker for the utility feed into the panel
A QO1xx to serve as a mechanical adapter (the amp rating doesn't matter)
A QO330SWN or QO350SWN (depending on the size of your generator/inlet/wiring) for the generator feed into the panel
A QOCGKX interlock/retainer kit (you'll need to order this from a supply house that stocks Square-D parts)
Some white wire of the appropriate size and matching wirenuts or crimp (compression) splices to extend neutral pigtails with
And a QO3HT handle tie

The trick here is that the retainer mounts to the bottom right accessory mount points in the QO124L125PG's interior.  Since the standard QO2DTI interlock requires a single pole breaker on the left in order to interlock with a 3 pole breaker on the right, we have to mount the breakers with one of the QO3xxSWN breakers in the far bottom right 3 spaces, followed by the QO1xx directly above it, and finally the other QO3xxSWN directly above the QO1xx.  Once this is done, the interlock piece can go on the upper QO3xxSWN breaker so that it interlocks that breaker with the single pole breaker below it.  That single pole breaker is then handle tied to the lower QO3xxSWN breaker using the QO3HT tie, allowing the interlock to operate on the combination of the lower QO3xxSWN and the QO1xx as if they were a single breaker with a single handle in the appropriate position.  Next, the QOCGKX's retainer is mounted in the lower right accessory position, as per the instructions provided with it.  This makes sure you can't pull the backfed breakers out (or the mechanical adapter-breaker for that matter).

Now that all the mechanical details are taken care of, we can handle wiring this setup.  The neutral pigtails on the QO3xxSWN breakers are extended (if necessary) using splices and appropriately sized white wires, then landed on branch neutral terminals in the panel interior while the main lugs on this panel are left open to be used as expansion subfeeds.  From there, this is wired as a normal subpanel with the utility hots and neutral going into one QO3xxSWN, the generator hots and neutral going into the other QO3xxSWN, and branch circuits wired as you would from any other subpanel; you can even use QO plug-on neutral breakers here if you wish, as the panel supports them.  The grounds, of course, land on separate ground bars; the QO124L125PGC is supplied with a ground bar, but it may still have to be field-fitted.

If you can't get a QOCGKX...

The good news is that it's possible to do this, even if you can't get a QOCGKX; the bad news is that you need to use unit mount breakers (and a few jumper wires) to do this in that case because QO loadcenter interiors do not support retaining backfed breakers in arbitrary positions (even the QOCGKX is quite limited both in positioning and compatibility).

In this case, you'll need:

Two QOU3xx breakers (you can go up to 70A for the generator and up to 125A for the utility, wire bending space permitting)
A QOU1xx breaker to serve as a "dummy" pole (if the utility breaker is 70A or less)
A QO3HT handle tie (if the QOU1xx is necessary)
A QO2DTILA interlock kit
QOUMFS1 threaded mounting feet, two per breaker pole
8-32x3/8" mounting screws, two per breaker pole
Insulated three-port mechanical splice connectors (three) and suitably sized jumper wires (six) to connect the load-side hots and neutrals together
And a box to wrap this all up in (the box and trim from a QO816L100xx loadcenter should do the trick quite beautifully, just yank out the loadcenter interior, take care of the twistouts, drill some holes in the trim for the 8-32 breaker mounting screws, and fit a ground bar to the box)

What you want to do here is flush mount the breakers to the enclosure cover (trim) in a 3-1-3 configuration (or 3-3 with the utility on the left if using a >60A breaker on the utility side), then mount the QO2DTILA to the left side of the rightmost breaker.  Finally, if the dummy breaker is being used, it needs to be handle-tied to the leftmost breaker in this configuration.

Wiring-wise, one side of one 3-pole breaker goes to the utility (hots + neutral), while that side of the other 3-pole breaker goes to the generator.  The opposite side of the 3-pole breakers gets wired in parallel using suitably sized jumper wires and splice connectors, and then that can get wired onward to another enclosure (or a loadcenter interior in that enclosure if you're doing more extensive enclosure modifications) to distribute standby power to wherever it needs to go.

As to the 1-pole breaker, if present? It simply is left unwired; its sole purpose in life is to serve as a mechanical adapter between the handle-tie going onward to the left-hand 3-pole breaker and the QO2DTILA interlock as the interlock may slide under a handle-tie space that doesn't have a handle behind it.


Pig-tailing 1970 aluminum wiring, choices of type of copper pig-tail

THHN should be more than fine for a pigtail job; in fact, the wires in Romex aren't intended to be used by themselves i.e. outside of the cable jacket as they have no UL listing for that use -- the cable as a whole is the only thing that carries the listing.

(THHN/THWN is what's used inside metal-clad cables and when wiring conduits -- it's the "standard" wire as far as individual wires go for building-wiring use.)


Install wall or ceiling light in room with concrete walls

The only way is usually surface mount conduit.
We can not see the existing wiring.
Outlet wires go to the ceiling:  it is possible that the feed from the light switch goes into the ceiling space and down in this case opening the ceiling and installing  a couple of boxes could do the trick.
Why would I need more than 1 box? At each box we need a minimum of 6” it is rare there is 1 foot extra wire in a run that would allow tapping the existing line so 2 boxes would be needed or a new wire pull with longer wires to allow a tap then possibly a 3rd box in the ceiling for the light.
Outlet wires not in ceiling: with no accessible wires a box extension at the receptacle or light switch if embedded would be needed, box extends so the conduit can enter and be surface mounted.
If already surface mounted install conduit to the existing location up to the ceiling the new light could be in parallel with the switched receptacle.
Although it is code legal to run NMB or romex in conduit it is much harder to do than using individual conductors of black, white and green building wire or THHN
a first time diy I would suggest 1/2” pvc conduit, it is easy to glue together and will not rust on basement walls that may be damp at times.


What is the dynamic head capacity of this pump?

You have selected the 230v model,  I have the 120V model.  The only standing water will be the 8' vertical to the ceiling and then a slight loop to the horizonal section.  The horizonal should still have a small slope toward the end where the water is discharged.
I cannot tell if your specific model has the check valve in the outlet.  None is described in the link to the pump description.  You will need the check valve.  At 10' vertical rise, it will pump 48gph, so 8' should not be an issue.


Should I apply lacquer over a wall papered with book pages?

I'd be tempted to cover them with a decoupage glue or mod podge. Polyurethane may work as well, but I'd test it by gluing some pages to a board and then coating them and waiting a couple of months to make sure it doesn't yellow or mess up the inks.


Toilet Problem- Water not able to flush at all

It sounds like there is a blockage somewhere.  It could be right at the toilet (waste gets trapped in the bends that form the built-in trap).  If the material gets past that, it typically makes it to the sewer line.  However sewer lines can get blocked between your house and the tie-in to the main sewer line (some old pipe materials were prone to breakage, rocks in the backfill can cause breakage, etc., then dirt or roots get into the pipe and block it).

If the problem is the sewer line, it will affect all of the plumbing in your house.  If it is the cause of water not going down at all, or only at a trickle, in that toilet, all toilets, sinks, bathtubs, etc. will drain very slowly).  If you have a washing machine that discharges into a utility sink, that would be a place where a sewer problem would likely be visible.

A simple way to test this is to fill all your sinks and bathtubs, turn on all inside faucets, and have people stationed at all sinks, tubs, and toilets to release the water from the sinks and tubs and flush the toilets at the same time on a signal.  If everything drains at a normal speed, the sewer line is not the problem.  (If it is the sewer line, post a new question because that's a subject all its own.)

If there is a problem with just one, or just a few, of the plumbing fixtures in addition to that toilet, the blockage may be where several discharge lines connect within your house.  A plumber will be able to figure out the location and will have the tools to clear it.

If the problem is at the toilet, itself, there are a number of ways to clear it.  If there is any chance that it is not normal, flushable waste (like a young child tried to flush a toy), you might want to call a plumber, because normal solutions to clear a clog will likely just make the problem worse and harder to solve.

The typical clog is human waste and toilet paper (and sometimes feminine pads that are not intended to be flushable).  The problem is usually the toilet paper or pad.  The pads are not designed to break up, so if it is likely to be that, the first solution is to try to use a plumbing snake to pull it back out.  If that doesn't work, try to break it up with the plumbing snake.  Which brings us to the standard solutions.

There are three basic approaches to toilet clogs: plumbing snake to break up the clog and push it past the point where it is caught, plunger to apply pressure to force the clog past, or breaking up the clog "chemically".  Any of these approaches might require repeated tries to clear a stubborn clog.

The snake is pretty self explanatory.  One word about plungers--you need to use the right type.  There are two styles of plungers.  One looks like a big suction cup, a dome with a flat edge.  That style is for sinks or basins and won't work well for toilets.  Toilet plungers have a "bell" and then a snout that fits into the discharge well at the bottom of the toilet.  You need that style for it to be effective.

I use the term "chemical" loosely.  There are caustic chemicals (typically containing lye), that dissolve the toilet paper, breaking up the clog.  Some contain concentrated bleach as the active chemical.  Hot water and liquid detergent is at least as effective.  For any of the "chemical" approaches to work, the toilet needs to be draining, even if very slowly.  If it is totally blocked and not draining at all, use one of the mechanical methods.  If you try caustic chemicals and then need to use mechanical methods, you've created a nasty environment to work in or get splashed by.  You can try the hot water method if you use something like an old pot to remove most of the standing mess so that the toilet bowl is almost empty (personally, I'd just use one of the mechanical methods, instead).

The hot water method: fill a large pot with water and bring it to boiling on the stove.  With the toilet bowl almost empty, squirt some liquid dish detergent into the bowl, then carefully pour in the hot water (be careful not to splash yourself).  Refill the pot and get it heating for the next application.  When the water has trickled out of the bowl so that it's almost empty again, repeat the process.  This normal requires several applications for a stubborn clog, often three or four in a row.  It takes the hot water and detergent time to work its way through the clog.  But it's a pretty "clean" solution that requires little effort and is very effective.

If you try the hot water method say six times in a row and there is no visible improvement, it probably means that it isn't a normal clog.  You will need to try one of the mechanical methods or call a plumber.


Is there a special type of screw to hang a light fixture onto the ceiling?

If you are replacing an existing fixture, the answer is likely no.  What it sounds like you are describing is a thread cutting screw:

or:

These tend to be included with mounting hardware to make it easier to screw them into unthreaded holes in plastic or fiberglass electrical boxes. Unless you are using a new electrical box without threaded holes for the fixture strap (or the attachment points on the strap are not threaded) there is no reason to use them.


There is absolutely NO WAY this is true. Even if this info came from the manufacturer (which scares me BTW). Lights like this are designed to also be installed between floors, so what do they suggest then??

Just pull down on the trim ring and the whole trim should come down. The lamp should snap into the trim and the socket goes on the lamp with a slight twist.


What is this material between our concrete and bricks (lining our pool)?

It is called "mastic". It provides a flexible buffer space between the pool and the deck while sealing that gap. It does wear out over time and need to be replaced.

Pool mastic generally refers to the expansion seal located several inches from your in ground pool’s edge. This expansion seal is filled with mastic, a waterproof, putty-like adhesive used as a joint-sealer between concrete sections.

The pool mastic seal is vital to the care of an in-ground pool because it prevents water from seeping between the pool and your decking, which can cause the surrounding concrete to crack. Put more simply, your pool and deck both need a small margin of space to expand and contract with the weather, the pool mastic provides that space.

Pool mastic should be replaced when you notice the sealant in the expansion joint peeling or cracking. Other indicators include pool tiles falling off, cracks in your deck, or heaving (rising) in your deck. In fact, anytime you notice the concrete around your pool changing it means you should inspect your pool mastic.

Source


Is it code compliant to vent my bathroom exhaust through the turbine vent in our attic?

Your contractor is lazy. The best solution is through the wall (though not near an eave), but if that is not possible, a dedicated vent in the ceiling is necessary.

If there is no wind, dumping the hot moisture-laden air into the whirlybird will just put it back into the attic.


I favor the thick filter. We have a SpaceGuard filter unit with pleated paper filters (Aprilaire No 201) and I think this yields a superior filtration without excessive restriction. I change it once a year.

The thicker filter is better if it is the right one for your unit, i.e., it is not too restrictive. Some people put a filter on which is too restrictive and this puts excessive load on the circulation fan motor. Our system has been in service for 25 years with the original blower motor.

The fan on the condensing unit quit last year and our HVAC service replaced it.


hole in drywall too big for old-construction electrical box - what to do?

They make various types of cut in boxes have you looked to see if a different type would work? And they make box clips just for oversize holes. If I get a chance I will try and find the manufacture of those clips but I know they make them because I have used them.

Just make sure the hole is not so big it can't be covered by the finish cover.


Should I add plywood or OSB between sistered beams?

There is no real reason to put a spacer between the joists when sistering them.  Usually using some 1/2 plywood between dimensional lumber is to correct the thickness to vertical lumber dimensions, like on a header over a door.  If you were to add a spacer, I would use plywood as OSB has much less sheer strength.  Adding some plywood will add a bit more strength, but in your case, may not make a difference.


How do I separate wood stain from mineral spirits if it doesn't settle?

Perhaps I'm missing an obvious problem, but I'd simply pour off the dirty stain in the mixture into a waste container and then save the clean spirits that remain below.


You've got a switch loop. Forget about the three black wires. Take the white wire from your fixture and connect it to your two white wires that are already grouped together. Take your black wire from the fixture and connect it to the single white wire. Mark that wire with some black electrical tape to show it's a switched hot. Mark the white wire in the switch box with some black tape too.


It's joint compound, commonly called mud, and not grout.
If you are sanding into the tape, you have not applied enough.
It's not a "one and done" product. You apply joint compound and embed tape.
You let it dry (or set, but setting compound is not the usual DIY choice.) Incidentally, USG recommends paper tape as superior to mesh unless you are using setting type joint compound (aka "hot mud.")
You lightly scrape or sand to knock off only the high points and apply more compound with a wider knife.
You let it dry
You repeat that a few times, with larger knives.
You shine the harshest light you can find at low angles and look for defects in the surface. When you reach the point that you can't find any, even after looking again from other angles, you prime and paint.


There is a difference.  Some bells are dual rated, but normally the maximum voltage is lower for DC than for AC.  Chances are your actual transformer is producing more that 12VAC, and your chime will actually be fine above it's rating.

Give it a try.


I see no reason why you should cut threads on a PVC pipe. It seems to me that this would be unnecessarily difficult and would weaken the pipe.
You should, instead, get a slip to thread adapter and glue it onto the pipe to thread it wherever you like. Any big-box hardware store or irrigation department should be able to provide this adapter.
Edit:
Here is a link to such an adapter for $1.56at big orange hardware store. :
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-2-in-PVC-Sch-40-MPT-x-S-Male-Adapter-PVC-02109-1600HD/203825431


Ceiling leaks When it Rains, Roof Looks Good

Since the general vicinity of the leak is at the peak of the roof it definitely decreases the amount of time pinpointing the exact location. Depending on your roof pitch it is quite possible for rain to be blown under the roof shingles. The easiest why to repair the opening is with roof cement. Any brand that is petroleum based will work. And because you know the general location start by checking each shingle to see if it can be lifted from the one below it. Shingles have a adhesive strip that bonds it to the one below. If you locate one gently lift it enough to smear a tablespoonful of roof cement and press back into place. Also be on the look-out for roofing nails that have worked their way through the shingles. Although rare nail 'pops' do occur on roofs. It maybe easier to remove the nail than risk damaging the shingles by hammering it back. Apply cement if you do. Check the cap shingles on the ridge line. U.V rays will desiccate the asphalt to the point it becomes crumbly. Look for any splits on the shingles and 'thread-bare' ones that have lost their asphalt particles from erosion. Trowel cement just enough to do the job (too much may soften or melt the shingles in heat prone climates.


How to identify an old compression stem in order to find a replacement

How many splines are on the broach, how long is it and what's its diameter?

As according to faucetpartsplus.com, that's all you need to get started. They have an entire list for spline counts, listing them (below) to specific manufacturers. If you can't figure it out, they suggest sending them a photo, as they're very interested in selling you parts; manufacturers and their employes might not be so inclined. It's more than likely they'd only be able to refer you to who makes or has the replacement parts these days; not their prerogative.

Even though the link goes to  an excellent array of pictures and contains most of the leading brands, I implore you to contact your local parts suppliers who are usually more than willing to help you.

You mentioned plumbing suppliers. Those are places you buy pipe and fancy toilets, you need a repair part supply house.

  4 point square broach - Milwaukee, Royal Brass, Speakman, Sterling, American standard, Chicago, Concinnity, Gerber, Price Pfister, Symmons, Zurn
  8 point broach - Briggs
  12 point .335" broach - Crane Dialeze, Michigan Brass, Wolverine.
  12 point .375" broach - Arrowhead, Artistic Brass, Harcraft, Glauber, Price Pfister, Scoville, Universal Brass.
  12 point .39" broach - Bradley, Elkay, Fisher, Sears, Universal Rundle.
  12 point .415" broach - Symmons.
  12 point .485" broach - Crane, Symmons.
  15 point broach - Santec, Savoy, Wolverine.
  16 point .360" broach - Gerber, Sayco.
  16 point .370" broach - Acme, American Standard Cadet & Colony, Barnes, Burlington, Central Brass, Concinnity, Eljer, Glauber, Harden, Kohler Trand, Milwaukee, Newport, Phylrich, Royal Brass, Scoville.
  16 point .40" broach - Sterling.
  17 point broach - American Brass, Mansfield, Midcor, Phoenix, Streamway.
  18 point broach - Briggs, Indiana Brass, Union Brass.
  20 point .285" broach - Broadway, Concinnity, Danfoss, Dornbracht, Eljer, Grohe, Jado, Kohler, Milwaukee, Paul.
  20 point .415" broach - Broadway, Speakman, T & S Brass.
  22 point .375" broach - American Standard old 3/8".
  22 point .438" broach - American Standard current 7/16".
  38 point broach - Import, Pegasus, Glacier Bay.
  D Broach - Delta, Milwaukee, Universal Rundle, Valley.
  Oval Broach - Delta, Moen, Mixet.
  faucetpartsplus.com


Options for in-floor receptacles when finishing concrete basement

I have put in quite a few concrete rated boxes, I like metal over the plastic ones and conduit is the way to go. If you want data there are cover plates for that and of corse the power receptacles. There are larger boxes but I usually recommend deep single gang because the proper cover plates are “reasonable” with that said a deep single gang box rated for concrete 30-40$ with a brass cover with 2 screw or flip up covers (I prefer screws as the flip up covers break).

When I set boxes in concrete I usually use a chunk of styrofoam inside the box and cover the opening with duct tape 2-3 layers, I use rigid conduit and tie the box /conduit to the rebar. When finishing I make sure I work the cream enough I can see the outline of the box just below the surface. Once the concrete is set it is easy to chip the thin surface coat of concrete. If the box is slightly recessed it won’t be a problem code wise but be careful when clearing the green concrete from the screw tabs (the concrete is easy to cut just after set but not fully cured)

If you let the concrete fully cure it is still not difficult to open a box that is sealed. Start in the center and chip it up with a hammer and chisel, as you get to the end of the box use light sideways blows not in the center at the ends you don’t want to damage the tabs the screws thread into usually a tap on either side and then pull up on the tape will break enough to expose the tabs.
Remove the styrofoam and any concrete that might have leaked into the box (this is why I recommend a styrofoam block to fill the box just in case.

Now you can pull your wire and install the device and cover plate.
My last house I put in power for my theater seats and another for an air hockey table, if I did it again I would have dedicated 1 box at the seating area for wired surround sound as the wireless ones were a PITB.


How to attach a new 2x4 wall frame's top plate to a concrete load bearing ceiling beam?

I suggest TapCon concrete fasteners with washers.  They come with a disposable masonry drill bit for pre-drilling.  Use a hammer-drill.
Another option is powder actuated nails, but a concrete beam might be made from concrete that is too hard for PAT nails to penetrate.


Arc-fault breaker in sub panel, pigtail to neutral bus or ground bus?

The white pigtail wire coming off of the AFCI is supposed to connect to the neutral bar.  It should technically work either way, as the neutral and ground are bonded together at the service entrance and at the utility transformer, but using the ground as it was is introducing currents into the ground conductor that should not be there.

I'm not sure why the new breaker did not work as intended, but it seems like the old one was working properly.  It seems like the cable feeding that plug has had its insulation damaged.  It also seems like it is coming in contact with a substantial amount of water, and that water is wicking up the dry paper into the outlet box.  If the insulation on the conductors is damaged, that moisture could be creating a high resistance short between two or more of the conductors.


Kitchen ceiling uneven after removing soffit

To be perfectly honest with you it may actually be easier and less overall work to remove the rest of the kitchen ceiling and redo the whole thing with new drywall.

This would be especially true in the case where the kitchen ceiling is enclosed by walls or other partitions. If the ceiling merges into the ceiling in another room then the suggested process may be a bit more work. I still think though that a merge patch in the ceiling between two rooms may be less work to make look right than the type of patch work required to fixup just where the cabinet soffits were located.


Can I connect the ground pin of the wall socket to neutral?

UPDATE - OCTOBER 26th 2019.

The OP has now connected the neutral to ground at the power socket.
This is against all advice from all people commenting.
He is completely ignoring the advice supplied by everyone.
He is wasting their time.

People who do what this guy has done this will kill themselves and their friends.

Don't be like this guy.

_____________________________________

Doing what you suggest may be fatal.
Dying will mean you do not have the problem any more but is not the best solution.
Ground and Neutral are NOT identical in functionality and need to be isolated from each other in use (despite being connected at the switchboard).

  There are some appliances in the apartment that don't have a problem with a wall socket that doesn't have a ground; ... But there are other appliances that have a problem and need grounding to get rid of these leaking currents

If, as you appear to be saying, the problem occurs with only some appliances only when a power outlet without ground is used then the correct solution is to use outlets which DO have a correct ground connection.

The reason that the problem exists is probably due to noise reduction capacitors in the input circuitry to the appliances concerned. There are two "Y" capacitors connected between ground and Phase & Neutral. When the ground lead is correctly connected the two capacitors 'carry noise currents to ground'. But, when the ground connection is floating the two capacitors form a voltage divider between phase and neutral, with the appliance chassis ground at the midpoint between the two capacitors - forming a high impedance connection at about half supply voltage. This then causes electric shocks between the appliance body at about Vmains/2 and a user connecting between boy and ground (via shoes or hands or ...) will feel a shock. This is usually unpleasant but nowhere near as severe as a full mains to ground shock. If the shock you feel is more a highly unpleasant bite than a muscle spasming grabbing blow then you are probably experiencing a Y capacitor shock.
Use a grounded outlet!


I'd inline splice & solder it, then heatshrink.

Use some heat shrink tubing, spread the wire enough to hold the heat shrink.
inline wrap the wire to its mating side so that it stays flush in the lengthwise of the wire, then solder it.
Then heat shrink each over the repair.

This will reudce the likelyhood it pulls apart, keeps out moisture, and is electrically safe.

This is not 100% how I explained it, but google inline splice wire, and you will see numerous pictures to get the idea:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-Tutorial-Inline-Splicing/


Congrats on including a picture unprompted! You'd be shocked at how many people don't do that...
I presume you've stuck the wire in the plastic hole and have tightened the screw down only to discover that it doesn't touch the wire, much less hold it tightly. That's a good sign you're attempting to wire it incorrectly.
Back the screw out almost all the way. You'll see the little brass plate dropping down to create a gap. If the screw comes toward the screwdriver and the plate doesn't move, push down/wiggle on the screw until it pops loose. Now, put the wire above the brass plate and tighten the screw. That will pull the plate up and squeeze the wire in tight. This method applies, of course, to all the screw on connections, not just the COM wire.
Your switch should come with some instructions that include torque specs. You really should tighten the screw to the spec torque. If it's too loose, the wire can wiggle loose over time as the entire switch assembly moves every time you flip the switch. That looseness can begin to cause arcing and arcing can cause fires. If you can't find the torque specs on the switch itself or on the packaging/instructions, there should be some "generic" specs available online for your jurisdiction (assuming somewhere in the UK based on the "made in UK" labeling).


If you are looking for a rough estimate, then use the manufacturer's estimate (from the label) of 5014 kWh per year.


You are correct to be concerned!
NFPA 72 (my cite is from the 2010 edition, but this rule hasn't changed in the last decade I reckon) 29.8.3.4 point 6 covers your situation:

(6) Smoke alarms and smoke detectors shall not be installed
within a 36 in. (910 mm) horizontal path from the supply registers of a forced air heating or cooling system and
shall be installed outside of the direct airflow from those
registers.

So, either the smoke detector or the air register has to move, lest airflow from the register create what you describe with a false-negative result due to smoke being blown away from the detector.


How can I close a gap between ceiling drywall and a furnace flue?

Theres also fire caulking, pretty expensive and you may have to close the gap if its very big. They do have collars that fit around pipe with a flat flange extending outward. The poster above suggested to. Be aware of hot items against combustable material in an attic, the dryness creates a tender box effect.


Fluorescent light only flickers when I turn it off

It is one of two problems. If you have another fixture with the same bulb, try switching the bulbs to determine if the bulb in question is bad. If you can't do this, then go to your home store and buy a new bulb (bring the old one with). Try it it the fixture and if it works, great, problem solved. If the problem still exists, then your ballast in the fixture is bad and you will have to replace it. You can usually get those at your home store too and they're easy to replace. The procedure to replace them depends on the type of fixture so we'd need a photo if you determine that's the problem.


Is it possible to reheat sweat joints to fill a slight leak with solder?

Adding more solder almost never works, because the problem is almost never "not enough solder" - the problem is almost always poor pipe preparation, where some part of the pipe is not cleaned and fluxed (separate things - physically clean, then chemically clean via flux - flux can't cure macroscopic dirt.) Overheating one or both parts when soldering can also cause this, by burning away the flux and oxidizing the pipe.

A properly prepared joint will wick solder all around by capillary action. An improperly prepared joint will never wet where it's improperly prepared, so it has to be taken apart and both the pipe and the fitting need to be properly cleaned and refluxed before reassembly.

Excess solder (as you might add while trying to fix a leak improperly, on the theory that if some is good, more must be better) is not benign - I have personally hunted down a pipe that had pressure when there was no flow, but almost no pressure when the valve was open; having eliminated the valve as a cause, I took the pipe apart joint by joint, and found one elbow almost filled with solder, with just a tiny hole water was making it through (that's inside the pipe, where there was supposed to be a 1/2" hole.)


It sounds like the joists aren't properly fixed to the walls or they aren't big enough for the task at hand - keeping your floors up.

I'd get another builder in to take a look and quote for remedial work and then try and get the first builder to either sort out the problem or pay for someone else to do the work.


Where do I cut glued piping to reconnect a new p drain for new sink?

You've got two choices: right below that threaded piece on the vertical run or the backside of the 45 degree bend close to the wall. the second choice is probably the one you'll need. Cut right at the edge of the bend with a hacksaw and stay as close to the bend as possible, You'll want to save as much of the pipe coming out of the wall as possible for your new connections. You can then use those "screw this nut" connections for the new drain.

With those screw is nut connections, assemble all the pipes and only slightly tighten. Once they're all together, go back and really tighten them up. The directions say only hand tighten but I have always had to give them an extra eighth of a turn with a pair of channellocks.


What are my kitchen sink's drain pipes made of, and how should I seal connections?

Those are brass drain pipes, which were once quite popular but now are more expensive than plastic. Most brass drain & faucet assembies are chrome plated.

There should be rubber or plastic seals, not Teflon tape to create the seal (although I have seen Teflon cord wrapped around the pipe to make a seal), but this is not as good as it flows out of the nut.


Usually those chairs take obvious UV damage from the sun.  This can weaken them.  (it does the same to child car seats, one legitimate reason to throw old ones out).  If that's not a problem, the chairs are probably saveable...

...but you need to learn to paint.  One rattle-can should do all 3 chairs.  You went through a whole can because you're misusing it as a magical fixer, cleaner and surface preparer... And that does not work.

I would start by working each chair over with sandpaper, maybe 120 grit, to smooth off any oxidation and give a texture primer can bite into.

Then, well gosh, what do you have around and how much do you want to spend?  Myself I do enough woodworking to have West System epoxy on hand, it's not a paint but it's perfect for stabilizing a stressed surface like this. I would use either that or a 2-part epoxy primer (or garage floor paint) and paint that on thin, with a throwaway chip brush. It would probably be about $5 worth of West System to do those.  I like epoxy because I know it'll help stabilize and strenghen the chair.   If I didn't have that, then maybe an oil based primer like Rustoleum white. I don't think a latex primer would stick, and rattle-can paint won't stick to it.

Then after the epoxy cures good and plenty (do not stack them for a few days!), I would sand a second time probably with a Scotchbrite pad, just to give the surface some texture paint can bite into.  The surface should now be very uniform and hard and take paint well.

Then rattle-can it.


Are the positions of the vertical clamps for the fixed shower glass panels adjustable?

These clamps grip the  edge of the sheet of glass  so they can be installed at any position along the edges of the sheet. The one on the arm at the top edge which you didn't mark is also adjustable.
Be sure position them to give sufficient support to all parts of the sheet.
Use safety glass.


To those who know all about MWBCs, this particular case is bizarre, interesting, and falls in the "you learn something new every day" category.  Please read carefully and not leap to conclusions. Thank you.

OP's comment The circuit breakers on the diagram are not feeding opposite phases, but the same one. means this is a shared neutral which is not a MWBC.

The neutral is carrying twice the return current!

And this (a non-MWBC) is an area often messed up by electricians, so it is generally frowned upon quite a lot.

There are old circuits out there like this.  This is is "leeeeeegal" per NEC... look at 215.4(A), or 225.7(B).  However these apply to feeders, and outdoor lighting, respectively.  You must upsize the neutral to handle the current for all the circuits which are on the same phase.

However, as a practical matter, any authority able to do so is going to nix it.  Prepare to have  your installation fail inspection, and  your protestations of being allowed in Code fall on deaf ears.

Any installation like this has some rules.

Pigtail neutrals

You must pigtail all the neutrals, except where a pair of wires branches off from the group and doesn't come back.  That is because removing a device on one circuit (e.g. a receptacle) mustn't break the neutral path for any other circuit.

Common maintenance shut-off

You will also need a common maintenance shut-off, powering down all circuits which share the neutral.  If your circuits come out of a fuse panel, a shut-off switch will suffice.  Common trip is not required; i.e. all the circuits don't need to shut off together if one overloads and blows a fuse or breaker.  However with breakers, those are the shut-off, so they must be handle-tied to shut off together.   Rather than chase around looking for handle-ties, most people just use a 2-pole or 3-pole breaker. They will have the side-effect of common trip; again that's not required.

GFCI and AFCI will be impossible

Increasingly, GFCI or AFCI protection is being required - most rooms in a house must be one or the other.  GFCIs are simply not built for shared-neutral circuits.

It is possible to use a GFCI or AFCI on a multi-wire branch circuit, which is a special case of a shared-neutral circuit, in which each circuit is intentionally on a different phase.  In this case the neutral carries only differential current, and can be the same size as the other conductors.

Generally a multi-wire branch circuit is the only kind of shared-neutral circuit an authority will allow you to have.


Those ducts are flex ducts they do have insulation in them but it is limited.
If you have enough length in the flex duct I recommend adding insulation under the duct because the flex duct is not hard to collapse.
The ducting is lightweight and although it will slightly compress the additional insulation the new insulation will work better if it can be laid continuously under the duct.
Where the duct is at the roof if you don’t have enough slack to put underneath stop right at the duct for best results.


Glass table supporting 12 gallon aquarium

According to the tabletop glass load calculator found here, and to my slight surprise, this table top can hold about 400 pounds.

I certainly wouldn't jump up and down on it, and any scratches might compromise it to some extent.

I told the calculator the glass is tempered, 1/2" thick, 18" x 54" with supports spaced 4 feet apart. Make sure you know the glass is tempered, not annealed. If it's annealed glass, it'll hold about 100 pounds.

That 1/4" sheet you just ordered would only hold 54 pounds on its own if you swapped the sheets. If you lay it on top of the other sheet, I don't know how to calculate how much stronger that will make the table, although it certainly will add to the load the other sheet is holding up. Maybe somebody else has some expertise in the benefits (if any) of gluing (laminating) two sheets of glass like that together.


Refrigerators turn on / off based on the internal temperature, check your thermostat dial and make sure it is set properly - perhaps initially to coldest. If it has a power switch as you said - model number not listed, cycle the power switch.

Some of these units have a trip on the back side of the unit to protect the compressor - check that it is not tripped (might be a red or black push pin style), light will work but cooling will not, it protects the compressor it is an overload, unplugging and plugging while running may have caused this to trip.


How can I find a sink that will fit where an old sink was?

"Farm Sink" solution to your problem is to replace sink with a Farm Sink or get your old sink refinished at a used appliance store


Can I solder 12/2 Romex to extend wire 5 ft?

They do make Romex Splice Kits that claim to be legal for rework inside of a finished wall without junction boxes.  Soldering is absolutely the wrong way, and regular wire nuts are not going to cut it.  You need a mechanical fastener rated and tested for the job.


How do I remove this old metal ceiling junction box?

This looks like it's an old school ceiling box. Note how the metal rod appears to attach to the box on top. It looks like these were attached from below (the bar bends and appears to go under the joist). They still sell a similar product today, with a bar that goes between the joists to hold a junction box.

As noted elsewhere, your best bet is to put a box nearby to lower the number of wires, then run only the needed wires into the box. I've done that myself and it helps a great deal when you have a box stuffed with wires.

If you're determined to remove it, I would cut the drywall back and see if you can detach it from below. Because it looks to be flush with the ceiling drywall, it's impractical to cut using anything but some sort of rotary tool (which would be a massive fire risk). Replacing a section of ceiling would be the least intrusive method of doing it.


How can I cut up and remove a metal kerosene storage tank that is in a cellar?

Your biggest concern is gas concentration.  You can't get ignition if the mix isn't there, so ventilate, ventilate, ventilate.  Open windows, put fans in them, and have fans blowing on your work area.

A power tool is going to throw sparks, where a manual snip tool won't, so if you can cut through the metal with snips, do so. Slow, painful, but safe.

If not, then drain all the kerosine you can from the bottom, and then cut a hole in the side of the tank with as few cuts as possible (again, heavily ventilated, blowing air through the area and through the tank as well), and use that access to drain even more.

Finally once the sludge is removed, you should be safe to go ahead and cut it up with a reciprocating saw.


Tried to remove one GU10 bulb, afterwards lost the entire fixture

Just replace the stupid fixture.  The entire point of the GU10 was to force people to stop using filament bulbs and replace them with Compact Flourescent bulbs.  This was in the days when the cost for CFC was higher than filament and the lifetime was the same as filament so naturally nobody was interested in buying them except California who was struggling with the shortage of generation capacity due to their stupidity in electrical regulation.
Today, with LEDs the Edison-base replacement market -DWARFS- the GU10 market and with LEDs costing the same as filament and the lifetimes of them so much longer, there is no need for goofy sockets to force people to replace lights with LEDs the cost savings and reduced replacement intervals are plenty good enough for that.  The final nail in the GU10 socket was when CA stopped requiring them in new construction.
I haven't seen a new GU10 fixture at Home Depot for quite a while now.  Everything is Edison-base and the vast majority of LED bulbs are Edison-base.  They have a few token GU10's in basic sizes for apartment dwellers stuck with this strange deviation from what has got to be the most foolproof light socket ever designed, but the cost of GU10 bulbs is rising as the demand has been falling and we all know where that vicious circle is headed.
The former owner of the home knew the future of that light in your nook was fixture replacement and left it for you to do.  Take your wife shopping at HD and let her pick out a new fixture and get some good husband brownie points for this one.


What factors go into choosing between 3-sided and 4-sided capping for composite deck boards?

TL;DR
Cost and how long do you want it to last.

I'm not a decking expert but composite decks with 20% wood fiber content are still prone to rot, albeit at a slowed pace. What you end up with is something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahiI6WTumB8
By having all sides capped you reduce the surface area for environmental variables to affect your boards.
If you switch to 100% polymer then you simply get to enjoy the longevity of the plastic and not worry about the wood filler. These too will degrade over time as nothing is safe from the sun. Maybe a stainless steel deck will provide the greatest longevity but you'd have to consider the cost.
One of the most important things to consider with any deck is joist spacing. If your joists are closer together then your deck will feel less spongey as the years go on. Also, if the span calls for a 2x8 joist then consider using a 2x10 or 2x12 if you really want it to feel sturdy.
Keep your deck swept, washed, relatively dry, and don't let microbes deteriorate your deck over time.


Tell your utility to come back out, as it sounds like something in the meter base got undone; either that, or your service drop/lateral's bad.  Either way, it's the utility's job to fix.


My light switch make a loud noise when used slowly; does it need to be replaced / fixed?

Yes, I would replace any switch that is consistently making the "popping" noise. This noise is from sparking of the switch contacts and is a bad thing and could lead to switch failure or even a fire.

When choosing a new switch choose one that has a quality snap action to it.

Lastly stop teasing the switches by moving them slowly. This is a bad practice and should be avoided. Operate the switches as they are meant to be used - snap on - snap off.


How do I repair this kind of drywall damage?

Looks like plaster on wood or plywood.

From what I can see:

Make sure the water leak is fixed (second photo).
Remove any loose plaster.
Not sure what the surface is.  Scuff it up so new material will stick.
May want to apply some sort of bonding primer, or possibly staple some thin mesh up to give the new plaster or spackling good support.
Apply plaster or spackling, working it in well to get good adhesion.  Make sure you get something that mentions adhesion on the label.
Your choice of learning to create a matching texture, or (around here) there is spray texture available (though you would have to mask or taper the old plaster).  Looks like "knockdown" texture.  Probably need to practice on a piece of scrap wood or cardboard.
Use a stain-blocking primer.


Using a temperature relay as a fridge temperature control thermostat

I see no reason why a device such as the Siemens 3RS1 could not be adapted to control a refrigerator.  I'm assuming you have one on hand as the price of one of these is close to the $150 that you are saying is out of the question.

Keep in mind that this device has no built-in thermometer, so you'll need to add an appropriate one of your own.  Also be aware of the output capacity so that you don't damage it by switching the compressor on and off.


Is PebbleTec / PebbleSheen pool surface worth the extra cost? Any alternatives?

Someone was recently selling me on a fresh water system for my pool as an alternative to my salt water (or chlorine) system. I asked him if there was a pool I could go off and swim in to see the difference and he said sure, come by his house. In the end I never went because I decided to not use that system for other reasons.

You are about to spend a lot of money on a pool surface and if you stay in that house for 5, 10, 15 years you will have to live with that decision for a long time. My advice is to ask each of the vendors if they have a sample pool that you (and your family) can try out to get a good feel for the surface. I have a pebble-tech finish and I could give you my opinion but it would be just that: My Personal opinion. What I like might not be what you and your family likes.

I hope this helps.


Electric panel update, should I do wiring too?

First, be very hands-on with panel selection and Buy a Huge panel. I'm talking number of spaces.  The point is to make sure you never come back asking: "I need to add a circuit, but my panel is full." That is an expensive problem to fix, and So Very Cheap to prevent at panel-buying time.

Panels come 16, 24, 30, 42 space. There's only a small difference in price per step, so max it out.  It's trivial cost on a $3000+ project.  Don't bother with 60 or 84 space panels, they're pricey.

Anyway, 400A installations are commonly done as two 200A main panels right next to each other, simply because that is vastly cheaper than a single 400A panel.  In that case, buy dual 42's.  (or 30's if you are impoverished).

Avoid double-stuff breakers - that's duplex, twin, tandem, GE's Qline 1/2" breakers, or any scheme to cram 2 breakers into a single breaker space.  They are a crutch to let them install a way-too-small panel. The fundamental problem with double-stuffs is AFCIs and GFCIs are not available in double-stuff, and those are required on near every circuit these days.

When a panel says "16 space/32 circuit, ignore the "circuit" number - that is presuming double-stuffs.

Buy a quality panel.  Homeline and BR aren't junk, but they aren't great either. Those same companies make much better panels called QO and CH. Some of us here have a bit of a love affair with Siemens (former Murray) and GE is superb, of course. They're all nearby in price range; the cheapies don't save much money at all.

Better panels tend to have spaces in multiples of 3, since they make variants of that panel which are 3-phase for industry.  Ford factories don't have a lot of BR panels.  (CH, yes.)

There's also a case to be made for using the family of panel you already own; so for instance if your old panel is full of perfectly good QO breakers, why not go with QO and reuse the breakers?

That quote price: Evaluating quotes is not really what we do here.  A huge portion of the total bill will be in the undergrounding the cable. That is serious work. So I'm not offended by the bill, I just can't tell you whether the next guy would charge $500 less.  I expect everyone will do the work to Code.  I also think what I say above about panel types says a lot about the electrician. The incremental cost difference from worst-case to best-case (from dual BR 16-space to dual Siemens 42-space) is only a couple hundred bucks, nothing on total project cost.

The branch circuits: I would not worry about those for now. There are now technological solutions for most deficiencies in the branch circuits, that can be handled right at the breaker panel.  Old wiring, aluminum wiring, boom AFCI. No grounds, boom GFCI. Sleep well that night.  Follow up at your leisure to make it perfect.

The only things I'd really be thinking about, branch-circuit-wise, is getting enough dedicated circuits into your kitchen so your wife never has to worry about tripping a breaker. Code now requires two 20A circuits just for countertop receptacles, and it's a really good idea to have your fridge not on GFCI, so a dedicated 1-socket circuit for the fridge is also called for.


What's the best way to keep insects from coming in Jalousie windows?

Window screens usually go on the inside of jalousie windows because (most) jalousie windows open outward (at least partly).

If you want to install a screen on the outside then you would (probably) need to build a frame around the window, with enough depth so that the window will not touch the outside screen. Also, you will probably need to weather-proof an exterior frame (like with flashing), depending on the depth and overhang of the eve.

Installing a screen on the inside may be easier, but ease of screen removal and durability with respect to repetetive screen removal (like for cleaning dead bugs) should be considered in the design.


installation of portable ac unit in garage with a gas water heater

You definitely want a CO alarm anywhere there are people.

It is best to keep them away from appliances that can trigger false alarms.

Yes, you will get negative pressure while running the A/C, but probably not much, yet it could pull exhaust from the water heater into the room.

Portable AC units offer lots of ways to run out their vents.  I'd suggest the best workaround is to place the AC unit across the room from the water heater, with yourself and the CO alarm in the middle.

Above all, think safety first.


My subpanel has neutral and ground all mixed together?

Four Wire Feeder
If the panel is supplied by a four wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral, ground), then yes, the ground and neutral should be separate in the second panel.
If the panel is GFCI protected, and fed by a four wire feeder. Mixing the neutrals and grounds in the panel, will almost certainly cause the GFCI to trip. By mixing grounds and neutrals, you've essentially bonded the grounding and neutral bus bars together. This causes neutral current to be split between the grounding and neutral conductors of the feeder. Which means that the GFCI device will not see enough current on the neutral, and will open the circuit.
Three Wire Feeder
If this is an older installation, where the panel is fed by a three wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral), then the neutral bus bar should be bonded to the ground bus bar. In this case, mixing grounds and neutrals is poor aesthetics, but not a code violation.
If the panel is GFCI protected, and fed by a three wire feeder. Mixing grounds and neutrals should not trip the GFCI.


30yo water heater replacement options for a small condo

Option 1 (replacing "in kind") will not only be cheaper but will be minimally invasive. The cost of the "hassle" is tangible and should be included in your selection process. Amortize the total cost over years of expected service, include the hassle factor, and I think you will find it the best option.


Bottle of soapy water - pretty much what "leak detector spray" probably is.
Call the gas company. I have always found them very happy to help
sort these things out before the building blows up and makes bad
press for them. I suppose your gas company might vary, but probably not.


The best thing to do is set yourself about 2 hours of free time, turn off the power to any wire near that box (use one of those electric sensors), make sure you have a flash light, around.

First, pull as much of the wires free as you can, restrip everything and get new caps and tape everything new.  If you think or even suspect another shitty splice is outside the box then yes, break through the drywall and make sure you tape and replace any splices there as well.

edit: ha, just saw that's not drywall...well tile is not as easy to fix, but honestly it's not that bad either...just a bigger project.

edit: am I seeing water damage (the green on the copper and debris in the box?)  Just make sure there's no water leaking in your wall....

source: own several very old houses - I do this everytime I change a ceiling light - they are just masses of cloth tape and garbage...


When can I seal the picnic table I made from pressure treated lumber?

I used PT lumber for my basement outer walls.  I emailed PT lumber association (yes they have a website) and and asked how long I should wait before I slapped up the drywall. I was told that unless the lumber is in a very humid environment it will lose most of its moisture in 2-3 weeks.  I waited a month to be safe.  If the lumber is outside in warm weather shorter than 2-3 weeks.  They actually said I would be within code within a few days but the 2-3 weeks was just a safety precaution.  I just didn't want moisture hitting the drywall.

There is no arsenic in PT lumber now.   But if it is a picnic table a "sealer" that is good then it will be full of chemicals.  I would almost go with an oil based paint.


Passing a generator extention through a wall for use in a power outage

You need a generator inlet  that feeds a single outlet.(you seem to know what an inlet is, but it doesn’t need to feed the breaker box, it could just feed a single outlet.) This new outlet should be placed next to your current sump pump outlet, and properly labeled to avoid future confusion.  (Assume here I’m talking about a future homeowner or tradesman— you won’t be confused but others might be in 10-20 years.) This new outlet would be dead when not fed by the generator.

Do NOT run your generator in the garage, it must be outdoors! Generators emit Carbon Monoxide which is odorless and extremely lethal.

(Note: the linked example is weatherproof, non-weather proof models are made for standard knockout sizes the are found on Hoffman-style enclosures, which are typically larger than needed for this project.  Since the easiest to install are all weatherproof there is a message there—these should be indoors or in the garage.)


Do I need an electrician to restore the power to my bedroom on the other side of a wall I drilled into?

It sounds like you drilled into an electrical wire, which will need to be replaced. The amount of difficulty involved in repairing it (and the cost) is mainly going to depend on where the wire is and how easy it is to access.  For example, if it was between two outlets that are accessible from a basement or attic, it should be fairly straight-forward.  If it was a feeder line running through an exterior wall, probably less so.  Fixing it will basically require figuring out what is connected to each end of the wire and running replacement wire.


Filling in gaps between pavers with a caulk-like material?

It could very well be an outdoor sanded caulk, meant to seal the gaps in the pavers to prevent weeds and water, which can disturb a nice level surface of pavers over time. I mean, if you'd trust a 1/2" bead of general-purpose silicone caulk to seal flashing on your roof, I would trust it to perform similarly in most any other application.

It could also be a grout-like substance, used in much the same way as for tile. This kind of material would be more rigid, and I wouldn't count on it lasting very long if you get cold winters; it'll crack, loosen and eventually crumble away as the pavers, and the ground itself, shrinks and expands.


How do I tell if a pipe running through a cinder block wall is leaking?

Turn off all faucets, and devices in the home that might use water. This includes, but is not limited to ice makers, dishwashers, clothes washers,  faucets, running toilets, etc.

Use a little piece of tape, one of those "sign here" stickers, or something similar to mark the water meter reading (or if it's digital, just write down the reading).  Don't use any water for an hour or two, then go back and check the meter.  If it's changed, you either have a leak, or forgot to turn something off that used water.


What could cause water to come out of the faucet when the shower is on?

Your diverter needs to be replaced - in your case, this is part of the spout. The diverter is responsible for allowing water to flow out of the tap, or when engaged, it closes the spout and forces the water up through the shower head.

You can try to disassemble it and find a replacement part, but often it is easier to just replace the entire spout.

Usually the spout is held onto a piece of copper pipe with a set screw in the bottom of the spout. Loosen the screw (usually with an allen key) and pull away from the pipe.  Replacement is the opposite - twist onto the pipe, align it properly and tighten the set screw.

You might not find an exact replacement but any spout with a diverter in it should work.

This should be a pretty cheap and easy replacement.  Good luck!


The transition problem that you depict is often solved with a trim strip made of wood that can look something like as shown below. It is often possible to purchase a similar molding and re-saw it into necessary shape. However your could also make your own from a length of the appropriate hardwood using a combination of a table saw and a router table.


It can be done, but you'll have to swap out the breaker.
A "standard" US receptacle is rated for 125 volts, and 15 or 20 amperes. So you'll be going from a 30 ampere double pole breaker, to a 15 or 20 ampere single pole breaker.  You could install a 15 or 20 ampere double pole breaker, but since you're not using the second line there's no point.
In the panel
Install the single pole breaker, and connect one of the ungrounded (hot) conductors to it. Cap off the other ungrounded (hot) conductor, using a twist-on wire connector or other approved means. The grounded (neutral) and grounding conductors should already be terminated properly, so you shouldn't have to do anything with them.
Since you've gone from a double pole breaker to a single pole, there's going to be a gaping hole in the panel cover. You'll have to cover it using a listed and labeled breaker filler plate.
In the bathroom
If You're installing a 15 ampere circuit, you'll have to use a short bit of 14 or 12 AWG wire to connect the branch circuit conductor to the receptacle. Cut a piece of 14 or 12 AWG wire about 6" long, and strip both ends. Connect one end to the 10 AWG conductor coming into the box, using a twist-on wire connector of appropriate size (or other approved means). Connect the other end to the screw terminal of the receptacle.  Repeat the same process for the grounded (neutral) conductor, and grounding conductor.
If you're installing a 20 ampere circuit, a 20 ampere receptacle may accept 10 AWG wire. Check the manufacturer's documentation to determine what size conductors can be connected to the device. If it does accept 10 AWG, simply connect the conductors to the screw terminals on the receptacle. If not, you'll have to follow the procedure from above, using only 12 AWG conductors.
Once the receptacle is wired up, you can cap off the unused wire using a twist-on wire connector (or other approved means).
GFCI Protection
Since receptacle is going to be in a bathroom, you'll have to provide GFCI protection. This can be done via a GFCI breaker, or a GFCI receptacle.
Notes:
If you don't feel comfortable working in the panel, don't hesitate to contact a local licensed Electrician.
Before beginning this project, make sure you know which towel bar you'll be installing. Read and understand all the documentation that comes with it, and determine what size circuit you'll need to supply it.


Even though you snaked the line near the toilet, it sounds like the line is still blocked or slow draining such that standing water sits in the line above the point of connection to the vent.  Vent lines for toilets are often connected as shown:

Standing water above the reducing wye where the vent connects will cause water to be pulled from the toilet bowl as water flows down the line (such as when the other connected toilet is flushed).  A flood when you flush both toilets indicates the sewer line is slow draining and cannot handle that much flow.  Possibly the vent is plugged.  More likely there is an obstruction such as tree roots infiltrating the line.  If you have a septic system then it is time to pull the inspection lids, especially the one at the inlet.  Check for obstructions such soap caked near the intake baffle.


Ceiling light with push connector but 3 white wires in box

You'll need to pigtail the whites to the fixture's neutral connection with a short length of white wire that connects the bundle of whites to the connector.


Installing light switch that requires neutral wire - wire is continuous through box

You are in conduit, which changes everything.

Nope, you can't cut it.  You don't have enough length remaining.  Both stubs will be illegally short and you would then have to replace both of them.

However, what you can do is replace just one half of the run, left or right, whichever one is easier to fish/pull.  Continue using the original wire on the other half of the run.

Identify which one is easier to replace by opening up both connecting boxes, and push and pull on the white wire from here.  You will get tactile feeling on which one moves easier.  While you're there, see if there is an abundance of slack in those boxes and you can just move wire around.  The legal absolute bare minimum is 3" of insulated wire sticking out beyond the surface of the  wall at each box.

Then on the "easy end" pull the slack out of the old wire, and lash it to the new wire with electrical tape at least 6-8", as long as you can. Streamline the "nose" so it doesn't hang up on things.  Then, from this box, pull the old wire out, dragging the new wire in.

Shove the old wire down the other pipe back to center, because you probably pulled all the slack out of the other box. That box needs that slack.  Then unsplice old and new wire, position everything and cut all the wires so they are 8" beyond the surface of the wall.

You could also leave the old wire and double back from the next or previous box on that conduit.  I do the "pass thru and double back" trick all the time to reduce practical box crowding, but that won't help you here.

Since you will be making all your joins at a wire nut, you might as well use stranded THHN wire which is more flexible and easier to handle, there's also no stiffness penalty for #12 wire.  Must be white or gray.


Can anyone tell me what kind of drain this is?

That is a bone stock "bell-trap" floor drain.
They are illegal for interior use under the IPC (at least) since the trap weir depth is perhaps 1/2 an inch or so; well below the minimum 2" weir depth required, in any case - though in fact the exclusion is for ANY bell-trap, not specific to the depth of the trap, but in this case that is typically about what you'll have.
1002.3, (Prohibited traps) item number 2 (Bell traps)
They can be used for exterior or garage drains (not connected to the sewer) only, as I recall.
I just removed one and "de-trapped" another (cut the inner ring seal so it just acts as a collector) and installed an actual P trap (adjusted to 4" weir depth) on its line. Fun chopping holes in concrete, yes indeed.
It probably was installed for a shower. They look like a perfectly reasonable, easy to clean option and the large box store will happily sell them without telling you that they are illegal for interior applications.


How to safely run power out to pond pump?

Yes, you're going to want to run either a direct-burial cable or a conduit in a trench from your home to the pond.  You'll also want to pull a permit for this work even if you plan to do it yourself and be sure you understand the code requirements in your location so that you don't make an expensive mistake and have to pull it out and re-do the work.


I am wondering if I should snake a new romex cable or if this will be
ok for a general bedroom receptacle.

I  do not see a need for a new cable.
The metal box is grounded, (attaching the receptacle to the metal box provides a ground).
The wires appear to be of sufficient gauge.
All should be good.


There is no safe way to do with you are asking without being or hiring a structural engineer. Consequences for doing this wrong include being buried alive or the destruction of your house. I suggest you contact a professional to discuss the project.


How to repair exposed waterproofing underlayment caused when removing a slate tile on deck?

If you have not punctured/pierced the membrane, fill it with mortar/thinset and tile away.


The IRC (International Residential Code, section M1502) requires venting a dryer to the outside, and did so as far back as 1997 (the oldest reference I have access to), but most likely farther back than that. However, you CAN use what's called a ventless "condensing" dryer if it is specifically UL listed as such and if there is no access to an outside wall. The "water-filled lint catch basin" is exactly what that would look like, and you will have to periodically empty that water. So it could be that the condo builder provided listed ventless condensing dryers to all of the initial buyers of the condos, rather than install vents to the outside walls. If what's there now is not one though, you can't use a regular dryer there.
Dryer vents are also restricted to being 35ft or less and for every 90deg. bend, that is reduced by 5ft. I don't think a vertical vent (i.e. out the roof) is acceptable, either. So you must either use the condensing ventless dryers or go out a side wall with no more than 35ft of pipe.


Can I run electrical cable in old unused heating ducts?

I will let someone else weigh in on the NEC compliance, but likely it is allowed (I am guessing it is the same as retrofitting and fishing a wire through an empty wall cavity).

However, I would definitely not do this with NM wire, since there's a high chance there are sharp metal edges and other protrusions that can damage the wire creating a safety and fire hazard. BX (armoured) would be more appropriate, and easier than trying to get NM through conduit and into the vents.


Do I have to turn off the main water supply to replace tub/shower faucets & screws?

Every shower handle and regulator is a bit different.

See the picture below which is just an example:

If you are really just replacing the handle - which is really items 1-4 (and sometimes 5-6 or sometimes 5-6 don't exist) - then no you do not need to turn off the water.  But just by the nature of doing this you are probably going to move the stem and get sprayed with water off and on, or just on if I am doing it.

As every manufacturer is a little different there are various reasons why handles get loose.  This example shows a more gears/bushing connection, some manufacturers use a specific shape (square/rectangle/hex) to connect the handle.

The reason why I not this is sometimes 5-6 is stripped and the handle is fine.  And sometimes 5-6 is really part of the main regulator and as soon as you start moving them water starts coming out of 8.  So if you are sure you are just putting on the handle you do not need to turn off the water.  But once you start touching other things turn off the water and turn on the faucet at the lowest point in your house (this will help drain the lines so you don't get a half gallon of kickback in your walls).

As a side note: Turning off the water for your house should be a simple process of turning a valve.  You should not be scared to do this and this is good practice as you might need to turn it off in an emergency situation.  All adults living at a house should be OK with turning on/off the water and power to house.  Also the bathroom or shower could have its own shutoff valve.  For a shower this would usually be the floor below and sometimes (not often) under the sink.


Can I replace the factory installed common wire on a GFCI circuit breaker?

What a fool. He owes you $250 now.   (although I don't see that breaker costing anything like $250 unless Canada is somehow involved.)
You could try getting a 2-void Alumiconn lug connector, that only requires you strip off about 3/8" of the wire length to go into that.  And then pigtail from there.  This is allowed in panels (unless Canada is somehow involved).
You are probably better off just replacing the whole pool panel with some other brand which has cheaper GFCI breakers.


Cold water intake corroded on hot water heater

That kind of corrosion on a one-year-old tank? WOW. Like Ed Beal noted, it looks like a leak at the connection. The installer likely did a poor job of taping the connection (with teflon tape) or failed to tighten it adequately.

However, the excessive rust is curious...I suspect that your well water is rather salty. When salty water evaporates from a surface, it leaves behind salts which contribute to rusting on metal surfaces by attracting moisture from humid air. It doesn't take a lot of salt to do this. Just the thinnest film is enough to constantly keep it somewhat wet enough such that underlying metal can be constantly corroded. I suggest tightening the union, scraping off the rust, and painting over with a water-based sealing compound. And take that sheetrock cover off!


What is the best way to apply Shellac-based primer?

Shellac/alcohol based primers like Bulls Eye work great for sealing stains and odors in many applications, however they do put out a lot of alcohol fumes. Spraying increases the amount of volatile gases in the air and should only be used in a very well ventilated area and with proper protective respirators. You can actually get very intoxicated, legally drunk from hours of exposure. There is always a risk of fire or explosion if a large concentration of alcohol fumes are exposed to an open flame or hot spark, so be very careful.

I have dealt with the identical problem of neutralizing smoking odors in an apartment. I believe you will have equal success using a good latex/water based primer. A water based primer is easier and safer to use, and I'm sure you will see good results. Because to the large areas you need to seal, I'd recommend avoiding shellac and go with latex.


Why does my wooden table have streaks after refinishing it three times?

As Harper mentions old poly can be a problem, but poly that is not well mixed (stirred not shaken) can also be an issue. If you sand you may well have scratches but don’t strip again--you need more coats and a very fine sand paper or fine steel wool between coats for best results.

I have put more than a dozen coats of poly down for a gorgeous finish. Depending on wood type and the time of year I may wait 2 weeks after staining to start putting down poly. Have I ever stopped at 1 coat? Yes but not often--my “quick” quality jobs are usually 3 coats looks very nice. And with the right conditions can be done in 1 day but usually 2.

Just a note I like wet sandpaper at 600 grit for multiple coats and have gone up to 1200 grit in the past for an absolute perfect finish.

What do I mean about stirred not shaken? Stirring will mix the poly without introducing air bubbles like shaking will. I do shake on occasion but have a vacuum pot to pull the air bubbles out. I can’t tell if your haze is surface or below, over working poly will cause a haze to form those pesky air bubbles. In some cases it helps to thin the poly on the first coat or two if the haze is because of grain. 1-2 maybe 3 brush strokes and move on or you will create the haze by over working the poly.

Lastly, use a very nice brush. I have brushes that cost $15-20. After use I clean them in solvent, then seal them in a jar of fresh solvent. I like solvent-based poly because I have used it for over 40 years and this method preserves the brushes. I think I am close to 7 years on the same brushes and they are almost new looking. I hope this helps.


Given the variance in the depth of drive of a nail, how stringent are codes for length of nail when framing?

Few people use 2-3/8" nails for framing with lumber. They're commonly used (in ring-shank form) for subfloors, sheathing boxes (think fireplace surrounds and soffits), and other light-duty uses.

Just as that size isn't truly an 8d (eight-penny) nail, 3" framing nails aren't truly 16d. They're thinner and shorter than a traditional 16d sinker. For that reason, most framers do their toenailing with 3" gun nails, and most only use 3 (2 from one side, one from the other). No inspector I've ever encountered raised this as an issue, and my extensive experience tells me that it's plenty strong.

You asked about codes, and I've answered in practical terms (the spirit of the law, so to speak). Codes only mean what inspectors and quality-conscious carpenters interpret them to mean. Perhaps others can speak more to "the letter of the law".


The L1 and L2 designates the two feeds. The contactor is a one pole contactor with a shunt.  The voltage rating is 277volts.  The FLA designates full load amps, 25 Amps, which is the max rating for the contactor with inductive load.  The LRA designates locked rotor amps, 150 amps, which is the max rating for motor startup, and the res amps, 35amps, is the max amp rating for resistive load like lighting. The coil voltage is 24v and is fed from a transformer in the air handler. Your compressor would be considered inductive load.

You don't have to go with Siemens but get a good one... remember, you get what you pay for.

Also, your fan in the compressor, should not be running all the time, only when the compressor is running. Good luck.


How do I increase the capacity of a small humidifier?

If I understand your question and ascii art, what you're looking for is called a bulkhead fitting.

There are a ton of different types: made from different materials, inside thread, outside thread, barbed, one-sided, two-sided, and all different sizes. I'm sure you can find one that is suitable for your application. The big box stores should at least have a few to select from, your local plumbing supplier will have more, and of course you can find anything online.


Patch Hole In HardiPlank Fiber Cement Siding

Since the hole relatively small i would use Quad window and door sealant. Not affiliated but i use it. It will stay flexible,  cement siding can expand and contract with high and low temps. It comes in many colors.


Is it ok to re-slope one of my gutters to another gutter?

Maybe.

Generally, the number and size of the downspouts is sized to handle a certain water volume. So if two downspouts were installed, then they probably can't handle just two.

Also, the gutters have to be pitched at down 1/2 inch for every 10 feet. If your facia board isn't tall enough to handle that slope for the entire length, then you need two downspouts.


Can I SAFELY install a Grounded Dishwasher in a mid 1950's home which was wired with a 2 wire UNGROUNDED circuit?

Looks like cheese junk from a brand no one's heard of.   You certainly shouldn't use random stuff that fell off a truck in Shenzhen for life safety.

It's also too expensive for what it is.  Cheaper would be a GFCI breaker from top makers like Eaton, GE, Siemens, etc.  Cheaper still would be a GFCI receptacle from a decent maker.

In any case, the device has a 5-15 plug, which means it's not listed to use on an ungrounded receptacle, if it's listed at all, which I doubt.    Which means either a) it won't plug into your receptacle; b) you have a 5-15 receptacle that is illegally installed with no ground, c) you have a GFCI receptacle legally installed without ground, or d) you have a 5-15 receptacle that does have a ground after all.

I would do option C and install your own GFCI receptacle or breaker, and call it done.

A GFCI is adequate for life safety, as it will stop electrocutions.  Some equipment needs proper earthing for reasons not related to life safety, e.g. radios or recording studio equipment, a GFCI will not suffice for them.


How can I remove a cable from a junction box?

NEC officially says abandoned wire/cable should be removed altogether from the box, and the walls, and if that is not practicable, then utterly destroy it where it is reachable.

Fortunately, they don't say that about conduit, because I have loads of conduit routes I'm not using right now, that I prefer to keep in place for future use.

Even though you don't envision a need right now, fact is, you never really know.

So I recommend exactly what JACK is telling you: remove them from the picture non-destructively so you are able to spare yourself the expense of fishing wire if you ever need them in the future.

One of the numerous opinions on the forum you linked recommended pushing it just outside the junction box, but where it could be reached if you wanted it in the future, and then if needed cover any empty holes with a knockout cover. (about 10 cents).  I would do either that, or what Jack says - just cap it off and don't worry about it.

The only exception is if retaining the cable exceeds the cubic-inch limit of the box; that must be dealt with either by adding a box extension or pushing the cable out of the box.


Can the Harbor Freight Air Impact Hammar be Run from a 6 Gallon Air Compressor?

You don't mention the model of compressor, but virtually all can produce the 90 PSI pressure.  The main issue with air impact tools is that they use a lot of air volume.  That tool is listed as average air consumption of 4 CFM.  "Average" means use of typical burst duration and frequency--how long you actively operate the tool and how long it rests allowing the compressor to refill.

If your compressor can provide 4 CFM at 90 PSI, you can use the tool in a typical way.  If the compressor can't provide that volume, you would be limited in how long you could power the tool before giving the compressor time to refill.  If your application is light, intermittent duty, it might not be an issue.  But below some compressor capacity, it might become impractical.  You would get a short period of use, then have to wait for the compressor to refill.

I've used a small air hammer similar to that with a small compressor.  It was fine for intermittent use.  But I once tried to bust up a concrete footer with it (ridiculously wrong tool for the job).  A jackhammer would have made short work of it, but the hand tool required almost continuous hammering over a very long period.  I spent more time waiting for the compressor to refill than actually getting work done.  So you need to apply some common sense and reasonable expectations.


How are integrated dishwasher's dimensions measured?

I only have experience with two dishwashers (the 10 year old one I replaced 3 years ago and the new one). When I was shopping all standard dishwashers had approximately the same dimensions (plus or minus 1" or 2cm; the dishwashers were sold in the US market), so perhaps the one you're replacing was on the small side. I had to go look at a lot of places to find a dishwasher that would fit (in my case the width wasn't the problem...we put new tile in and most dishwashers were too tall to fit). I don't think a difference of 1cm is enough to consider it oddly shaped; the "specialty" dishwashers (for condos and small kitchens) seemed to have size differences of up to 10cm or more.

As far as the stated dimensions go, they seemed to be very accurate. The knew the one I purchased would be a tight fit and it definitely was (I had to remove the feet on the bottom to fit in in the cabinet). You may want to download the manual/install guides for various dishwashers that you're considering. Usually the top and sides of the tubs are covered with insulation which can be compressed a little as you're fitting it into the cabinet (although you must be careful of any hoses/wires on the sides). The widest part is usually the front part of the tub which flares out to seal with the door.

In my kitchen, the cabinet face and counter top covered a slightly wider/taller hole inside the cabinet. If your layout is the same you may be able shave a few mm off of each side of the cabinet to make it fit.


Bad smell on clothes caused by plumbing?

I've never seen something like that before.

The most accepted form of plumbing requires a P-trap to prevent sewer gases from coming back into the house.  In your case they might be flowing into your washing machine.

I haven't seen many washing machine to under sink connections before and the more typical thing is a long standpipe for a washing machine to pump the water into.  I'd be fearful that the volume coming out of the washing machine would be too much for the sink assembly to handle in a short period of time possibly resulting in the water backing up into the sink until the volume had decreased.


Should there be any moisture around a shower valve?

There should not be, if you have exactly as depicted in the picture. The Silver Ring just needs to be tightened a little more or it may have a speck of debris disturbing its seal. Don't worry though and leave it alone, if it doesn't tighten easily and not dripping to screw with tile installation. That gray plastic in the center is just the Test Cap that has a gasket behind it and will be permanently removed once he installs the valve's cartridge and shower handle.


How do I know if my high limit and low limit are set correctly on my aquastat?

It all depends on what type of system you are running. The lowest temperature possible sufficient to satisfy the heating load is recommended due to the fuel savings.

To give you an idea

From a NHB service manual

I personally wouldn't set anything contactable to more then 150ish°F.


Wiring problem on 4 gang metal light switch

You didn't mention what gauge the wires are, so these answers are generic:

Yes, the ground wires should be tied together although there is some debate on whether this is required by code. In this case all the ground wires should be connected together in this box, and the neutrals should all similarly but separately be be connected together (note: don't mix the grounds with the neutrals). Since you will have only two remaining devices in this box, this should be fairly easy. Collect all the ground wires from any Romex that enters the box and bond all of them connector with a wire nut. (See note about wire nuts sizes below.) Do the same for the neutral wires. For grounding, look to NEC sections 250.148 and 250.148(D) Since this is a metal box, make sure there is a "ground pigtail" connected from a ground screw connected directly to the metal box to the ground wires (which you are bonding together in #1 above), as shown in this example.
The color of the wire nut and the specific manufacturer's instructions tells you how many conductors and of what sizes each nut can be used to connect. But generally speaking, 6 or more conductors is not advisable: it's just too easy for one to come loose. If you need to connect more than 5 conductors, I would recommend a "push-in" wire connector, of which there are 2-, 3-, 4-, 6-, and 8-wire variants. Your particular situation should be aided by your question #3 (below) which will reduce the conductor count.
If you have switches which you're sure no longer control anything, just remove the switches and cap the wires with wire nuts. Make sure you've disconneced the hots from the others that are feeding live devices. (Leave the ground connected.) Opinions will vary about whether to keep the neutral bonded to the others. I tend not to.

A few more notes:

The Code requires that non-functional switches are removed and replaced with blanks. You should be able to find blank inserts to fit into 2 of the 4 gang slots.
Wire nut colors are standardized, but depending on the shape (wings or no wings) and the manufacturer's instructions, some wire nuts hold more than others. I've never seen more than 5 wires successfully in a wire nut that didn't merit replacing. :-)
There are rules about how many conductors and devices can fit inside a box. If you post the size of your box (usually marked in cubic inches inside the box) and a new diagram once you've removed the two left-most devices, we can confirm whether your box is filled or over-filled. At first glance, what you've got seems pretty tight (i.e., likely over-filled according to code) with 4 devices. When you remove the 2 switches, that may change.
Whether to keep the neutrals separate is a little more complicated. For the above advice, I've assumed all of these switches are fed by one circuit from your panel. If not, let us know and we'll advise how to handle the neutrals.


Design guidelines for walk-in shower sizing?

You can also look at Wet Zones. These come in a variety of styles but the one we used from Aqua Dry consists of a raised base you fix above the existing floor level.

This base has the correct drainage slopes built in - all you have to do is make sure the floor on which it stands is level. The range includes side and end panels which fit onto this raised area.

The arrangement we have is (approximately):

The shower head (not included in the kit) is virtually directly over the drain and points more or less straight down. We don't get any water outside the shower area beyond a few splashes.

The walls still need to be made waterproof as does the junction between the walls and the base - but the kit comes with all the tape, glue and waterproofing needed. All you need to do is add the shower itself and the tiles.


what NEC addresses using GFI breakers to address outlets with no ground

NEC 210.8 covers GFCI , in my 2014 version the replacement of 2 prong receptacles with 3 prong when GFCI protected was in 406.4.d
But not the same in 2017 , I will update this when I find it for the 17 code.
I looked at 406.4.d and did not see it in 17 code
250.130.c  “non grounding receptacle replacement” information note states see.406.4.d ,,, oops I must have been in 404.6 because this time 406.4 paragraph D replacements subsection c specify replacing 2 prong with 3 prong. Sorry about that
406.4.D.2.c is the paragraph you ask for.


Do I need to protect my new basement slab from freezing air temperatures?

Since it has been a week you should have no problem, do not use a deicer on it, THAT will tear it up.... To be on the safe side rent some concrete blankets to hold what heat the curing concrete generates.
Straw and plastic has also been used as a blanket.


No, just breaking the tab off is not enough. You need to have wiring specifically that goes from the switch to the outlet.

What likely happened is this: Most electricians will daisy-chain outlets, using one set of terminals for the feed, and one to go to the next outlet. By breaking off the tab, you removed power to everything downstream from that outlet.

Wiring for a switched outlet varies.

Sometimes there is a normal two-conductor wire that goes from the feed in the outlet to the switch (on black), and then the switch connects the two wires, and it comes back and goes to the top outlet (with the tab broken off). In this case the white wire should be colored red, or at least black to indicate it's hot. Red usually means switched. It's against code to leave a white wire carrying hot, but it does of course happen.

The other way it's often done is by having the feed come into the switch, then carried over a 3-conductor wire to the first (switched) outlet, where the red wire is switched and is connected to the top outlet, white carries neutral, and black is hot and is both connected on the bottom outlet and daisy-chained along to the rest.

There's other variations as well, though generally the power will be on the same circuit (breaker) - otherwise any fixture on it must have a clear indication that it is powered by two sources, and honestly I've never seen this done in a residential setting before (not even sure if residential code allows it).

So in short, you can't make a switched outlet unless the outlet is explicitly wired that way.

If you can re-wire (from an unfinished floor below), it's doable.
If you want to cut holes in the drywall and redo it, that works as well.
For a less intrusive option, you can put in some "smart" switches like Insteon, UBP, or X10 (though honestly, X10 has signal reliability problems, I'd stay away despite it being dirt cheap). Benefit of those is you don't even have to replace the outlet - once you have the switch in, you can put plug-in modules anywhere you want that will be controlled by that switch.

(Note: I prefer, and usually see -- at least in Canada -- the bottom outlet switched, but these diagrams show it as top switched, so I left my description that way)


Safe way to terminate exposed electrical during remodel?

I would also do wire nuts with electrical tape if I knew who was working in the area and they were competent.
The boxes you put your wires into don't need to be mounted anywhere. They can just be hanging around. But yes I understand cost and driving to get the boxes and covers can be a nuisance.
I know some people like to wire nut the hot and neutral together. That way if somebody turned the breaker on by accident, they would short out and not electrocute anybody. Again that would be wire nut and tape...


Safety.

First of all, you'll get neutral current on the ground wire back to the main panel, because there are two parallel paths back.

Secondly, if the neutral ever fails, instead of just having no power everything will appear to be working, but you'll have all the current on the ground. This means now you can be electrocuted by touching the panel itself.

Edit: See my other similar answer: Why does a subpanel need separate ground and neutral?


How can I keep these hook mounting screws tight?

The best thing you can use is threadlocker, which is a special glue designed to keep screws from coming out. A drop on the threads keeps them from slipping. There are different grades and colors, you'd probably want blue.
If you don't want to buy threadlocker you can try a drop of superglue. One of the comments say you can try nail polish, I haven't had much success with that trick but if you have it on hand you could give it a try.


orange indicator light is on for my outdoor GFI receptacle

I don’t see a reason for a down vote.
Orange? I don’t think I have seen but if the outside GFCI is not WR or weather rated moisture may have gotten to the electronics affecting the power to the led or be the cause of the trip.
Moisture in another receptacle that is fed by that one could also cause the trip/ failure to reset problem.
I have found many boxes outside with water in them not enough conductance to trip a breaker but in some cases enough rust and dirt in the water to trip the GFCI.
In-use or heavy duty covers on receptacles in wet locations help prevent this problem when combined with WR rated GFCI circuitry (receptacles). The electronics in WR GFCI’s are coated so moisture won’t affect them but if some current is going to ground through water at the terminals that can cause the problem.


Extending power from existing three-way switch circuit

Let's go to the store and get some colored tape, so we don't lose our minds.  We don't need to distinguish two travelers from each other, so a pair of travelers can be the same color.  We do however have two sets of travelers in close proximity, and two switched-hot colors which I'm making red and purple.

So now in color:

In order to feed an additional switch+lamp combo, you need always-hot and neutral.  Do you see it in the right hand switch box? Yes, you do, but how?

Well, you've got always-hot in one cable and neutral in the other cable -- Oh wait.

You can't do that

You can't pull power off one cable and return it on another cable.  Currents must be equal in each cable.  The answer is "NO".

It would be yes if they were all wires in one conduit.  Using cable between the switch groups sinks you.


How to frame a floor in an unfinished crawl space?

Looks like you have concrete pillars with 2x's coming out of them. Perhaps you can frame a deck floor space, fastening treated lumber to them and maybe anchoring a joist to the concrete wall. If you anchored to the center posts at concrete pillar, there would be no support problems. Use 2x6, 2x8 should work. Good luck


When is a fence considered light weight and how do you chose if you need a heavy or a light fence?

There is no specific definition of what 'lightweight' would mean for a fence. But, in general, one could probably argue that a fence that is mostly decorative is lightweight. A 3' high vinyl post and rail fence would be lightweight.

An 8' wood privacy fence would not.

You might be able to use these, but I'd want them sunk into concrete so that you have a solid enough base to with stand the horizontal loads the fence in the picture would be exposed to due to wind.


water coming up from under cement foundation

OK, the water must be coming from somewhere:

Water from a leak. If you've been checking your meter and don't think you have any leaks inside that's good, but it's possible there is a crack or break in service line upstream of your meter. This might actually explain reduced water pressure in the house. If you suspect this is the problem I would call your water company and have them take a look.
Rainwater. If the water appears only during and shortly after a storm, then you probably have a drainage problem. Make sure all gutters are directed away from the house. You might also look at grading near the house to make sure water will flow away from the house.  Is the porch at the bottom of a slope towards the house?
Groundwater. I would be a little surprised if this were groundwater welling up, but it's not impossible. Have you had a very wet spring that would've raised the water table level? Or done any serious landscaping / excavation / compacting in your area?
Septic system. An unhappy septic system can cause water to well up, although probably not so close to the house or clear / odorless. Do you have a septic system?

(I wouldn't beat yourself up too much about not sealing that gap. If water is pooling from below I doubt a little sealant would hold it off for long.)


It should work with below steps:

Press "Power" button to stop current mode if necessary.
Unplug power line for 30 seconds.
Open the door, then plug power line but do not press "Power" button.
With in 30 seconds, after plugin power line.

Close door.
Press "Signal" then "Delay start" then "Signal" then "Delay start".

Door will be locked and show "t01" on display.