Can I run direct burial line in a conduit from the ground to the electrical box?

"Direct burial" means that the cable is rated to be in direct contact with the ground and keep the ground water away from the wires inside. It does not mean that it is only to be used in direct contact with dirt.
Feel free to wire your whole house with direct burial cable if you'd like, just be prepared to pay through the nose for it. (Just be sure to use wire also designated RHH/RHW-2 to do this - it's flame retardant and approved for indoor use. It must be used even if running in conduit.)
Long way of saying "yes", feel free to put it in a conduit as it comes out of the ground and makes its run to wherever you're terminating it. Actually, unless it's coming directly into a building, you'll be required by code to run it in conduit to protect it. Just make sure that your outdoor junction box is properly watertight.


Is it true? Try a lead testing kit, commonly available at hardware stores - while primarily intended to test paint, I'd have to think it would give some indication. For a more definitive test you can probably send a sample to a lab. Red Lead was a common pigment, yes. Whether or not that was what was used on your slab, only testing will tell.

Whether you even need to seal in the hypothetical lead is debatable - the primary concerns with lead paint are children eating flaking paint or dust - if the slab does have lead but is not crumbling away and being eaten or inhaled, there isn't a pathway for the hypothetical lead to get into you.


Wall switch to half hot outlet both standard

A normal switch with power located at the switch could have two cables coming in with the neutral/white wires are all connected together. Then, the ground wires are all connected with a pigtail to the green screw on the switch. Lastly, one hot/black connects to one switch terminal and the other hot/black to the other switch terminal.

When you turn the switch on power is passed through to the fixture or receptacle. This is quite common.


If you're still worried, alternate lightly dampening the area followed by blotting away the water with a colorfast absorbant cloth; that should delute and rinse away any remaining residue. But if you can't feal any residue after it dries, I'd duggest not worrying about it and trusting that it'll be dealt with next time you hit the area with carpet cleaner.


Can I connect circuits for a dishwasher and sink disposal unit to the same breaker?

This is kind of a tricky question. For many years contractors connected the disposal and dishwasher on a split receptacle below the sink. Now with newer and larger appliances consuming more power there could be a problem.

Also there has been some conversations in the AHJ and Code communities about NEC 400.12 (2) Uses not permitted - Where running through holes in walls ... Does it mean a fixed appliance electrical cords passing through a cabinet wall? Right now it's kind of up in the air and I'm betting there will be a code clarification coming up in newer revisions.

If you can perhaps the smarter move would be to extend the circuit from the disposal receptacle and install a separate receptacle behind the dishwasher. Or super safe install a separate circuit for each appliance.

One last thing, both now need to be on GFCI protected circuits.

So make sure your GFCI protected, verify the circuit can hold the total load (that includes the start up surge of motors) using the nameplate data of the appliances and take it from there.

Hope this helps.


Change GFCI outlet/switch with regular switch

You should be able to simply swap the switches.

This is your current wiring (grounds have been removed to make it less confusing).

There should be no problem with you swapping the switches like so...


You can't go wrong replacing 80 year old pipe and valves especially since your neighbor has had a serious leaking problem.
You shouldn't really need to heat the joints to take the pipes apart, just two 12 or 18" pipe wrenches. If your referring to the copper to galvanized fitting in the picture, just cut the copper pipe above the copper fitting and continue on.


What is the right way to prevent twisting on a 8 foot gate that opens over a sloped surface?

I also think the wheel is causing the gap. There’s nothing in the structure of the gate that does a good job of resisting twisting, and I can’t think of anything you could add easily. The gate can only sag if the post leans, or the gate itself deforms. I think the diagonal beam will prevent deformation. I’d remove the wheel and beef up the post.


Can you increase the speed of an ECM AC blower?

When you asked to increase the blower, what you are really asking to do is increase the fan speed (amount of air), right? You could ask the the tech to check/verify that you are getting 1600 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and if you truly are, and if that's not enough, ask them if it is possible to increase it (it might be adjustable). But I am thinking that may not really be the issue.

Your real problem is that it's not cooling the house. I'm not sure if this issue is truly the result of a weak blower (insufficient CFM); it's very possible, but honestly, a 1.5 ton unit is pretty small. For a 1,000 square foot house, I might recommend at least one 3 ton unit or preferentially, two 2 ton units, depending on your lattitude (summer temperature). Below is a map and chart. I would generally recommend double the what they recommend on the chart below, because you will only use what you need.

In case you didn't know, having more (AC tonnage) doesn't mean that you will use more. If you set the thermostat to say 70 °F, then the AC will turn off when the house is at 70 °F. If you have fifteen 3 ton units, you will use the same amount of energy to cool the house to 70 °F as one 2 ton unit (give or take maybe 5% energy).

Map source:http://www.acdirect.com/ac-package-unit-learning-center-ac-sizing-calculator

Edit based on comment that the AC is actually a dehumidifier:

Dehumidifier? Well, that's a key piece of information. The old unit may not have been well designed as a dehumidifier; if the newer unit has been set up to be more like an actual dehumidifier then that would explain the question. The older unit was probably designed (more) for cooling. The newer unit might be a more for dehumidifying.

The difference between an air conditioner and a dehumidifier is that the air in a dehumidifier first passes through the cooling coil and then back through the heating coil (basically, there will be little change in room temp) and then back into the room as dry air. In fact, the temperature might be higher.

Unfortunately, this means that the answer is to install an actual air conditioner or re-engineer the dehumidifier to make it an air conditioner.

Edit2 Okay it's not a dehumidifier. It's a regular AC and you have a separate dehumidifier. Regular AC units have protective coatings to help prevent condensation on the evaporating/cooling coil. That protective coating usually doesn't last forever which is why older AC units often collect water. Typically, you don't want the AC to collect water (that causes rust and mold issues). For a regular AC unit, having the blower on high is okay. Lower speeds (lower CFM) may cause condensation to occur (depending on all the bells and whistles).

The dehumidifier is where you do want condensation- to remove moisture. Cooling the air should help your dehumidifier to operate, because as the temperature is lowered, the relative humidity will increase. When measuring the relative humidity, the temperature is a/the factor. For example, say that you have 44% humidity at 70 °F; it has about 0.26 grams of water/vapor per cubic foot. At 50 °F the relative humidity of 0.26 grams of vapor per cubic foot would be about 92%. A dehumidifier should be able to operate more efficiently at 92% RH than 44% RH... so that's why an AC unit can help a dehumidifier.

I suspect that when you measured the RH in the basement it was higher than you expected (maybe about the same as the RH outside), but if the temperature was lower in the basement (than outside), then having the same RH means that you actually have less water vapor in the basement, where it's cooler.

To recap: The service technician might be able to increase (or decrease) the blower speed, but that would probably lower the AC's cooling efficiency. Your new AC unit is not collecting water (yet) because the anticondensation coating hasn't been compromised (yet); and that's a good thing. A 1.5 ton AC unit may not be large enough to cool the basement. Cooling the basement should help the dehumidifier. And remember, the relative humidity is based on the temperature.


rotten wood between concrete slabs of floor

Yes, that's exactly what you want to do. I've found that drilling holes, 1/2" since your wood is that thick, into the piece of wood can break it lose and make it easier to remove. Get as much out as possible and then fill in with your Quikrete.


My experience has shown me if the mortar is crumbling and tile cracking the base is not thick enough to start with. Even a perfect mix cannot stand up to flex!

In existing structures my normal plan is to remove existing flooring. Next I put down backer board first with thinset under the backer board and screw it down. Next I put the tile down again with thinset, the additional level of backer board with thinset on each side has not failed be in 40 years,

First I must say I check the Base , if I walk on it and it feels solid I STILL add the backer in most cases. I am 6’5” and a big guy and at 250 as a skinny guy if I see or feel any flex I add structure and that is the reason I have not had a tile failure similar to yours.

I can say most DIY tile jobs that fail because the base ( sub floor two thin, no backer) mixing is easy , if two wet it is not as strong  and ends up two thin.  but not usually a problem, under mixing with dry clumps is really to spot as big chunks flake with no base problems.

I would be looking at the base on a first floor and especially on a second floor with the problems described.


Do circuits with #12 wire need 20A receptacles?

Due to a special exception (NEC 210.21.B.3), you are allowed to use 15A receptacles (plural) on a 20A circuit.  In order to be UL listed, all 15A receptacles must prove they can handle 20A in all respects (except 15A to any one plug, since that still means 15A).

Almost every 120V receptacle is a duplex (double).  If you have a simplex (single) 120V/15A receptacle, that is special. As Ed Beal notes, since only one thing can be plugged in and it must be <=15A, the breaker must be 15A.  NEC 210.21.B.1.

if you switch a hardwired load, the switch only needs to be rated for the hardwired load.

If you switch a single receptacle, the switch must be rated for the maximum of that receptacle (perhaps 15A).   If one switch controls two or more receptacles, you could plug anything in there, and the switch must be rated for whatever the breaker is rated for.


Replacing a door's glass panel with a wood panel

I would suggest a quick visit to any building supply recycling type place near you to see if you can simply grab an inexpensive replacement door that's already better suited to installing a pet-door in - you may have structural issues with this door if you cut away a significant part of the bottom to insert a pet door. Replacing glass panels with wood is not the same (structurally) as a solid wood door (or door with glass on top and a solid wood bottom.)

Even if you have to buy it new, it would be a lot less work and more dependable to use a different door here.


How to prevent mold in ceiling below upstairs bathroom

As long as there's any water leaking in the bathroom, you shouldn't permanently seal up the ceiling in the kitchen. I would be installing an access panel in the ceiling similar to the one pictured below. It would cover the hole, could be painted to match the ceiling but would also provide access to the area if water did leak and you could spray the area with some mold killer. The frame for the access panel could be regular base board molding or something fancier to keep the wife happy.The panel could be regular drywall so if water did leak on it, you could just replace the piece of drywall. If you don't need access to the pipes in the closet you can just repair that hole or install a similar access panel there too.


Replacing single pole switches with 3way switches

You will need two separate 12/3wG between the two switch boxes. This is a case where you cannot use 3 x 12/2wG to get the six conductors, because you don't have three independent pairs.

If the power enters this complex at one of the lamps, you will need 12/3wG from that lamp to the nearest switch box; otherwise you need 12/2wG from the switch boxes to the lamps.

Your diagram shows a square of wiring between each group of four lamps. You only need three sides of the square.

When you run the cables between the two switch boxes, you may discover that power is fed from your service panel to one of the switches, and chained from there to the other switch, via a 12/2wG cable. If this is so, remove or abandon that cable and replace it with two 12/3wG cables. Then connect the switches and lamps like this:

If you examine this design you will see that each lamp group with its controlling switches is completely independent from the other. They are connected only at the wire nuts on the power feed cable.

OTOH you may discover that there is no connection at all between the two switch boxes, and the two lamp groups are on independent circuits and may even be on different breakers. In that case there is no connecting cable to remove; just run the two 12/3wG cables between the switches. Then connect the switches and lamps like this:

Here it is even more obvious that each lamp group with its controlling switches is completely independent from the other. You could print the diagram and cut the two circuits apart with scissors.

Be careful to avoid mixing the wires between the two 12/3 cables, otherwise you could end up with something that seems to work, but is very dangerous to future maintainers, and generates inductive heating in hidden places.

I haven't included the fault ground wires in the diagram. Generally the best thing to do is to connect together all the fault ground wires that you can find, and also connect everything electrically conductive that you could touch to a fault ground wire.

There is one exception to this rule: When parallel cables run between two junction boxes like this, and the boxes are metallic, the two fault ground wires will form a conductive loop, which will couple inductively with nearby active conductors and possibly carry significant stray currents. This is called a "ground loop" and should be avoided.

The rule for parallel sheathed cables between metallic j-boxes should be: use only one of the provided fault ground wires and leave all the others capped off.


Best way to support walls of existing wooden outbuilding

This is one of those "best" questions that's highly dependent on site conditions and your capabilities and prerogative. It also depends on how much footing you actually want (or need, if frost heave is a concern). I see two options:

Do as you suggest, first pouring footings and then setting block under the wall plates. This would require someone with some good block-laying skills. That sort of bottom-up work isn't easy. You'll need to fill in around your temporary legs, then remove those and close up the gaps.

Pour an integrated footing with the slab. Once you backfill and compact for the floor, shape adequate footings forms into the soil below the walls. When you pour, agitate the concrete well so that it flows under and against the wall plates. Ideally you'll do some of this from the outside to eliminate air cavities.


are these mud tunnels from termites or carpenter ants?

Termites, without a doubt. That's the way they eat wood. Also, only termites eat drywall paper, as your second picture shows happened.


Yep, as long as you don't have a door threshold that would be a very likely trip hazard, your plan is almost right. Of course, it would be best to remove any surface reason possible in the high room. However, that floor is tongue & groove 2x4's and may be a ceiling for a room below (as seen in the sunlight areas of your picture)...so, don't screw with it.

Conversely yes, in the low room you'd build a stud frame to mimic joists and then plywood it to match the other room's elevation. Although, there's no need to nail it down nor glue it as the high room's floor edge and the walls would keep it tightly in place...your frame would be the same as a stud wall with a top and bottom plate securing the studs/joists.


How can I build a long lasting low maintenance fence?

A lot depends on why you want the fence and how much room you have. Driving around Southern Ontario, I can easily see cedar rail fences that are over 100 years old, unmaintained, and have not fallen down. They don't even have posts! Cedar just won't rot, and they were constructed to be stable, let the wind and snow through, and endure. They take up a ton of room though, and don't hold back anything smaller than a cow or a snowmobile.

So, are you just marking your property line so snowmobilers and hikers stay out? Confining your dog, excluding the neighbour's dog (or cows which have been a bigger problem for us over the years), excluding deer, reminding your kids where your land ends, preventing neighbour children from visiting your pool and drowning, providing shade, providing privacy, cutting the wind, building something to hold up trees and vines, ... ?

I just had to replace my mailbox. A pressure treated post was put in the ground (no concrete) over 20 years ago. It's still solid, I just had to move the mailbox to somewhere else. The stresses on a fence are higher, but don't get too worked up about "making it last" from a contractor point of view. Design the fence so that if one post does happen to fail (perhaps water pools there) you can disconnect the boards, replace the post, and put the boards back. That will be your most maintainable and longest-lasting fence.


Drilled into studs, light flickered momentarily but everything else seems fine now - should I be worried?

So you stopped drilling and it got better. Of course, if you put in a screw it might get worse in a hurry.

Best bet is that you nicked the insulation on a wire or wires - either from drilling too deep, determinedly drilling though something that was supposed to prevent you (or warn you by being difficult to drill, compared to wood anyway) from drilling into it, or because it was installed improperly (too close to the surface, without steel protector plates.)

As such it would be a very good idea to turn off the breaker for the affected circuit, open up the wall, have a look, and call an electrician if you are not comfortable fixing electrical things yourself.


If you want it badly enough, it's probably possible. Whether it's practical or cost effective is another matter. I don't think anyone could possibly give you any idea of the cost without looking at what you have and what you want. Costs are related to the amount of work involved, local labor and material costs, and the level of finish you want.

A new floor must be supported by load-bearing walls. If you already have suitable walls in the right place, this might not be a problem. If you don't, you've got to build some, which might mean changing the downstairs and adding to the foundations.

What are you going to use the space for? There are code requirements about ceiling height, size and placement of windows (especially in a bedroom) and so forth. It may be necessary to run a new electrical circuit from the breaker box. There may be local regulations that say that if you spend more than a certain percentage of the home's existing value on repairs or remodeling you have to bring the rest of the house up to current code. If you have a septic system you may be required to upgrade it if you add a bedroom.

If you really want to do this you would be best off talking to a local builder who can give you advice specific to your situation.


Can you place a support header in the ceiling?

A "flush beam" is on plane at the bottom with the joists it supports. The joists will typically be supported in one of two ways:

Using steel joist hangers attached to the beam:

source

By resting on the beam with an engineered bearing point protrusion, often consisting of a doubled 2x4 top chord or single upright top chord.

source


Definitely packing. Can't 100% confirm from the picture whether it was designed to be serviced, but there has got to be a reason for the hex-shaped machined valve bonnet. I think you need to use bigger wrenches (back-up wrench and working wrench) and get that bonnet off so you can repack the valve. It's likely just stuck.

I would just cut it off or "un-solder" it and replace it with a top quality ball valve.


outlet intended for half hot does not have tab removed

Remove the tab in the center receptacle and you should be all set.   Or you could just remove the red pigtail from that receptacle and also, you'd be all set.

The problem right now is that you have a redundant current path on the hot side.  The red wire is spliced to the black wire, so they are from the same circuit and in the same potential (i.e. in the same phase).    If they were from different circuits, this situation would be a lot worse.  Eliminate the redundant path and you're good.


Where can I find conduit bends less than 90degrees?

This may be a shopping question and might get shut but you can buy conduit bends at any electrical supply house.

In my opinion, two 45s are only slightly less drag than a single 90, but the large radius 90s (aka "sweeps") are better than two 45's.  Oversizing the conduit helps all around.


Is a lip necessary on an HVAC ceiling register boot for use with flexible ducting?

New answer thanks to updated question.

Yes, the lip around the rim of the opening I'd call it a "ridge" but I dunno if that's right) on the boot is there to help ensure a firm connection.  It's to keep the zip tie on the inner core from slipping free.  This is necessary (the keeping the duct snug, not nessarily the tie) if your ducting is going to be pulling away from the boot due to gravitational stresses - such as when the boot is above the duct and the duct can be pulled down, such as along a wall or below a ceiling or floor.  If your boot points down and the duct sits on a horizontal surface, you're good - no extra tension should happen.

Important note - neither mastic nor tape are intended to be structural - they don't serve to hold the ductwork in place, they serve to seal the ductwork so that there are no air leaks.

So the question really is - how do I properly secure my flexible ducting to the boot when there's no lip on the collar?  Answer:  Self-tapping screws.

Get yourself a box of those (the hardware aisle or the ductwork aisle).  When you go to mount your ducting, pull the outer insulation back up away from the core, pull the core over the collar, and use TWO screws on opposite sides of the duct (180 degrees from each other - noon and 6'o clock (or 1 and 7, 3 and 9, you get the idea) to ensure that neither side of the duct can pull free.

Use the inner to snug up the connection (don't over tighten!), seal with mastic (I'd recommend tape though cause of the insulation layer...), slide the insulation up as far as it will go and snug it up with the outer zip.


An emergency would be if it was stuck on and you couldn't shut the gas off.  This is an inconvenience.

These look like simple electronic buttons.  Looks like the button has been pushed through the control panel.  Its likely held in by little plastic clips.

If you are lucky, the clips aren't broken.  You can disassemble the control panel and push the button back into place.

If the clips are broken, you can fix it properly with a new button (or possibly new control panel if they don't sell the buttons separately - still cheaper than a new stove).  If you just want it fixed now, you can probably epoxy the button into place instead.  Make sure the button itself still works before you do that.


Can I put a higher amp fuse in a wall mounted fused connection unit?

In general, NO. Replacing a fuse with a higher-amp fuse is a very bad idea and can lead to fires.

Fuses (and circuit breakers) are rated such that they blow or trip before any part of the circuit gets to a dangerous current. You rate the fuse or breaker based on the lowest current rating of all the devices and wires in the circuit .

In your case, the manufacturer of the connection unit determined (somehow) that the "weakest link" in that circuit can only draw 5A before it exceeds its limits. Putting in a 13A fuse would thus allow that weakest link to draw almost 3 times what it may be designed to, which leads to increased heat and then fires.

There is a reason your fuse is tripping and you need to figure out what that reason is. Perhaps there is a problem with your lamp post, the bulb, one of the sockets, or the van charger. Fix the underlying problem, and you won't have any more blown fuses.


When using a hand saw, why does my cut keep wandering off the line? (originally posted by glw)

There are three basic problems that lead to a drifting cut.

The Setup:
If your saw is not properly set/sharpened it won't cut straight. The teeth of a hand saw are set (bent away from the centerline in alternating directions) so the effective cutting surface is just slightly larger than the body of the saw. That way as the cut deepens the body is less likely to bind in the piece. If the net affect of the set favors one side or the other it will "drift" in that direction. Likewise in the case of a crosscut saw, the teeth are filed in opposing angles to help sheer the fibers as they cut to prevent chip out. If the sum of the left facing angles is greater than the right it will tend to wander off in the that direction, although generally not with as much exaggeration as if the set is bad.
Technique:
Believe it or not there are some techniques to using a handsaw beyond just pushing it back and forth. Even if you're just roughly sizing a piece it's still worth striking a line for both your long and short direction so you can see where you're going. But more importantly than that is how you pursue the line. If you attack the cut at 90 degree angles you're always fighting with the entire length or depth of the saw (depending on if it's a rip or crosscut). You have much more control if you shoot for cutting angle that ranges from  aprx 5 to 30 degrees to the two dimension of you're cut. Start out with your saw basically flat to the face and make a few inches of cut. In this mode you'll only be engaging the teeth of the saw which makes controlling the direction of cut much easier. Once this starts to feel akward, switch to cutting deeper instead of "forward" until the angle of bottom of the cut rougly represents the hypotonuse created by the long and short dimension of the cut, being careful to keep on your short line. Now rotate back to cutting flat and repeat.
If you have a cut that needs to be really precise, replace the pencil line with a knife wall (a knifed line deepened with a chisel). The shoulder of the knife wall will act as a bearing surface and, to a certain degree, guide your cut automatically.
Tension: In the case of the frame saws (coping, fret, and bow saws) poor tension of the blade, specifically a lack there of, will cause all manner of problems. Also, at least in the case of my coping saw, the blade can be installed in either direction, which means it can be accidentaly set up to cut on the push instead of the pull. I would be embarrassed to tell you how I know this :)


Cement and mortar are not inherently water proof.  Water penetration into the basement is probably not the cause of eroded mortar but instead indicative of a more serious problem stemming from the outside.

A complete fix will involve digging up the area outside the foundation, applying proper water proofing, installing weeping tile (or replacing) and drainage, then replacing the soil.

You will probably find that this is not a DIY job.


Can I connect two soaker hoses with a normal garden hose in between?

I have something like this and it works just fine. (I have only one soaker hose in each bed, and both soakers are the same size.)

The flow rate involved is very slow, so the hose and connector sizes cause no interference. The pressure will be the same throughout.


New Thermostat installed but compressor comes on immediately

Ultimately I figured out what I was doing wrong with help of this question:
Adding a C Wire To A New Honeywell Wifi Thermostat

I was mistaking the 24VAC transformer for the relay to the outdoor unit. The only thing I really needed to do to the original wiring was connect the blue wire ("C") going up to the t-stat to the splice bundle near the furnace.


You should be able to see onto the board where the rest of the wires connect and find the "C" terminal. It likely already has something connected going to one of the many wire nuts (and yeah, that is pretty sloppy).

You can test for sure using a multimeter. Set it to measure AC voltage, and then between the Rc (or Rh) and C wire you will see around 24VAC.

Once you've traced C and verified it, connect it up to your blue wire. Do yourself (and anyone who works on this in the future) a huge favour and label each wire at the thermostat before you put it back in the wall.


Testing for asbestos in vinyl or linoleum flooring sheet?

A: Lab test is the only way.
B: In most parts of the civilized world, 1987 is VERY late for still having asbestos in any building product.
C: You already removed it, which means you already handled it and made whatever dust there was to be made. Can't put that genie back in the bottle. However, See item B, as well as know that chronic exposure is much more of an issue than a one-time short-term event in the asbestos risk profile.


Honestly, I would affix a chunk of marine plywood to the pole, prime it, paint it with exterior paint, and attach the RV panel to that.  That will give you more freedom to position it for a "back to back", "out the bottom of the RV panel and then in the back of the main" with a single bevel 90, or down, over and up with two 90s.
Given the very short distance, the cost of wire is negligible, so I would use #3 copper.  I'm not a huge fan of copper for feeder, but it's the most compact, so it'll fit in the smallest conduit.

Here's the thing about those "50/30/20" RV stands.  Generally, you're expected to install one of those per RV site.  And then, the RV is expected to use the one socket that is compatible with its power.
You keep talking like using all three of them at the same time, you're not required to provision for that.  You only need to provision for the largest socket available to any given site, and you ignore all the smaller sockets.
If you follow the "One 50/30/20 panel per site", then it's pretty simple.  You calculate based on 50A/12,000 watts per panel/site, and then apply the favorable derate that Ed Beal mentioned from 551.73.

90% if 2 sites (so 90A for two 50/30/20 RV stands)
80% if 3 sites (so 120A for three 50/30/20 RV stands)
75% for 4 sites
65% for 5 sites
60% for 6 sites
55% for 7-9 sites (thus you can support seven 50A sites from 200A service)

So again, you don't have to provision more sockets than you have RV sites.  You just count your RV sites and provision that many sockets, largest first.
And follow what Ed Beal says about how 50A RVs take a lot more power than 30A RVs.  That is  because 50A RVs take 240V power, not 120V.  They take over triple the power of a 30A.

50A/240V sockets are 12,000 watts
30A/120V sockets are 3,600 watts
20A/120V sockets are 2,400 watts
By the way, tent sites follow a special rule and you must only figure them for 600 watts.

And then apply the derate as Ed says.
Like I say, given your 100A provisioning, I would just go ahead and install two 50/30/20 RV subpanels at wherever you expect will be most useful.   Because the subpanels are good for 100A busing, you don't actually need to give them separate breakers - you can simply daisy chain from one subpanel to the next.  But the wire needs to be 100A.
Does it matter how many sites you support with two 50/30/20 RV stands?  Actually it doesn't -- no combination will exceed 100A.

2 sites: 12,000 x 2 = 24,000 W x 90% derate = 90A
3 sites: 12,000 x 2 + 3600 = 27,600 W x 80% derate = 92A
4 sites: 12,000 x 2 + 3600 x 2 = 31,200 W x 75% derate = 97.5A
5 sites: 12,000 x 2 + 3600 x 2 + 2400 = 33,600W x 65% derate = 91A
6 sites: 12,000 x 2 + 3600 x 2 + 2400 x 2 = 36,000 W x 60% derate = 90A


Should I fix my swimming pool with plaster or a clorinated rubber?

Bring in a professional and verify what is actually going on, this is not a DIY job.
Also, rather than replastering consider going to an aggregate pool finish like Pebble Tec - much more durable and easier to care for.


Answers in order:

1) If the kitchen was done properly in the 90's you definitely should have GFI protection, at least near the sink(s). If not then yes, you cetainly can install a GFI at the head  of the circuit and protect downstream standard receptacles.
Keep in mind, only receptacles serving countertop areas require GFI protection.

2) IF the house is that old GFI protection was likely not required at the time of original installation. You can if you like add it at any time, and it's the same situation as the kitchen. Downstream protection is fine.

3) See answer #2. I doubt there is a need for an actual GFI device behind the freezer.

4) Again, same goes. You can just use one GFI at the beginning. As for how many, there is no limit, but each downstream device does have a tiny bit of current leakage, so limiting them to 5-6 is a good idea.

Remember, to gain downstream protection, the incoming line must be on the LINE terminals, and the line to be protected must be on the LOAD terminals.


Why doesn't my doorbell have power at the button?

It sounds like you've connected the two transformer terminals directly to the two chime terminals. That would cause the chime to sound immediately when the power is turned on, and no power would go to the switch.
The correct wiring looks like a loop or ring connecting the transformer, chime, and switch. See removeandreplace.com.

With your specific cables it could go like this:

At transformer, white wire to one terminal and black wire to the other terminal.
At chime, white wire from transformer goes to chime's transformer terminal. White wire from button goes to chime's front door terminal. Black wire from transformer connects to black wire from from button. Note: black wires do not connect to chime at all.
At button, white wire goes to one terminal of SimpliSafe and black wire goes to the other terminal of SimpliSafe.

Do steps 1 and 2 first, leaving the button wires by the front door disconnected. Turn on power. Touch the bare ends of the button wires to each other. The chime should sound.
After confirming the chime works correctly by touching the wires, turn power off again and do step 3. Then verify the complete system.


How to fix 1/2 inch gap between shower drain pipe and flange?

You should, if at all possible, take a look at what is going on below the shower. If there is a crawl space, basement or lower level floor you should look to see if the drain pipe has actually dropped down. I say that because there is a possibility that the original installer fitted the pipe to the drain collar but neglected to apply PVC cement into the joint. As a consequence over time the joint might have come apart and ended up the way you see it today.

If the guess above is the case then this may be a relatively easy fix that would take two people to complete. First you would need to clean all grime, sludge and crap off the drain collar and the drain pipe. In the case of the drain pipe this would have to be done from below. Once clean and dry PVC cement would be applied to the outside of the drain pipe from below and the second person would install it to the inside of the drain collar from above. Then the person below would have to push the drain pipe up into the collar. It may take some up and down action on the pipe to get the PVC cement to spread and work its magic in the joint.


solved, I took the 3 wires off the outlet and found that 120 was going in to hot by testing ground to common, but 11.78 was being drawn from common and nuetral so the only possible explanation was that the wire from.the breaker box to the outlet which had to be  the neutral wire, everything looked fine in the breaker box, everything tested 120 being pushed out, but taking a closer look the neutral wire was burnt but tight through the hole on the metal strip. taking even a closer look the neutral wire was about ready to break , it wiggled like a jelly bean. Changed it and boom power to my fridge, thank the Lord.


Vegetable Garden Fence Design with 2x2 Posts

I will line up all the posts, measure, mark, pre-drill, and screw in all the brackets before the posts ever go into the ground.

What if you can't drive one all the way to your predicted depth, or what if you drive one your predicted depth and it is not yet stable and you want to drive it further? I would not pre-attach your rail brackets or I bet they will not end up straight/level.

  Do I slope my fence or do I make sure every post top is level with every other?

Slope the fence, 1/2" per foot adds up.

  boards around the bottom of the fence for additional structural support, to withstand some extra impacts

Unnecessary for impact, unless you expect charging cats and hedgehogs to head-butt the fence. But it might add some extra stability.


Recommended web sites that help pick out interior wall colors?

I'd second Greebo's suggestion of buying samples, but we've found that painting lining paper works better.

Firstly, you can move the patch around the room to see it in the different conditions that exist in your room - next to window, in the dark corner beside the chimney, etc.

Secondly, you don't have to worry about a darker colour showing through if you end up choosing a lighter colour.

Thirdly, you can reuse the sample in another room or even in someone else's house.


Changing gloss marble finish to honed finish

Typically a honed finish is done with 400G as a finished cut. Since the marble is much softer than granite which the 400G would only rub over it, without cutting at all, you would need to start with 50G to start the process with granite. With marble you may only need to it it with the 400G and call it done. If that resists the 40G cutting it, you may need to stat with a much coarser cut.

The vinegar trick in the article referred to will literally eat the surface gloss off the marble,unless it is sealed. Vinegar is a very mild acid, but it will attack the softer portions of surface and remove more than other portions. IMO, the 400G sanding will keep the surface more uniform, if the sanding is done in a uniform fashion.


Why do I read 120v between the hots and neutral in a 240v circuit?

The two two are from the same phase I would guess. Do u have a double pole breaker? Make a picture from your breaker box wiring. Double check the wiring your outlet as well.


Why should we replace smoke alarms every 10 years?

It likely has to do with the lifetime of the hardware itself. Remember, there's a circuit board and a light source, as well as a detector. Those don't last forever. So the manufacturer certifies the device will work for only 10 years, and then (in some modern units) sets a hard sunset by using an unreplacable battery.

In some regards, this solves the problem of people just putting new batteries into older detectors forever, not realizing the devices have stopped working (when was the last time you tested one?)


Buy a sheet (or two, or three - depending on your scale of storage bins) of 1/8" tempered hardboard (Masonite® is one common brand)

Cut 1/8" (or just a hair larger) slots in 3/4" boards (shelves are a good starting point for material in consistent sizes if you don't have some plain wood handy.)

Cut the hardboard a bit bigger than your paper - enough to allow for both the slots and some room for handling. Glue the top and bottom pieces into the slots. Trying to glue them all might be frustrating ;-)

Cut another sheet of hardboard the size of the back of your two sides plus shelves, and glue and nail it to the back. That will give it a great deal of structural strength as well as keeping paper from sliding out the back.

(Or, visit an office supply store or an office furniture surplus outlet and look at in/out bins, document organizers, mail sorting bins, literature sorters, magazine racks, etc. to see if there's a solution you can just buy. Should be easy for 8.5x11, more of a challenge for 12" square.)


Reducing risks of interior brick wall insulation?

A thermal resistant coating from outside may help to insulate the surface further more.


Re-nail the bottom of the T1-11 to the sill plate every 6 inches. I use Simpson StrongTie ring shank stainless steel siding nails. Be sure you know where any water pipes and drain lines are in the exterior wall, and use the length of nail that would not go much more than 1 inch into the sill plate. You could go 1.5 inches into studs low on the walls where there would be no pipes or wires.

Simpson StrongTie stainless steel siding nails


Do I need to repair a slit vapor barrier on fiberglass insulation

If you are installing IC rated lights an are worried about the paper, I would be concerned about the rest of the insulation that surrounds the light.

Typically when I set a "new work" style rough in I cut the drywall bigger than the light rough in by a few inches on either side up to the joists that will support the light. Yes I may cut the paper, but the larger cut in the drywall helps me address the cut and other issues.

"Remodelers" IC rough ins are a different matter.

Once the light is wired in, I add another 4'section or 2 centered over the area where the light will go, after the light is secured in place I cut the paper and the insulation to the light. You can tape the cuts in the paper if you like, and it may improve the performance of the vapor barrier.

The reason why I detail this, is if you have not cut the insulation other than the incidental cut during the time the drywall is cut, I am led to think the insulation is simply pushed up to make way for the light to go in. Doing this raises the insulation above the neighboring pieces and the R-value is diminished drastically in these ares where this happens. This is the meaning behind my opening statement.


Does a ground wire to a receptacle box improve safety if appliance only has 2 prongs?

Since the outlet has a ground pin, it must be protected

You certainly did have the option to fit a 2-prong outlet (NEMA 1-15), which are still sold by competent hardware stores and electrical supply houses for this very reason.  By the very fact that you are asking this question, I gather you did not.

For instance, I have outlawed 2-prong outlets in our facility because we have gorillas who like to break off ground pins whenever they find a 2-prong socket.

No.  If you have fit a 3-prong socket, you only have two options.  You must either actually wire the ground so you have a continuous ground of sufficient size all the way back to the main panel (it can merge onto other ground paths, as long as it is wide enough)... Or pursue option #2.

Assure that the outlet is downstream of a GFCI device

... and label it "GFCI Protected / No Equipment Ground".

The GFCI protective device must protect hot and neutral coming here, and can be anywhere between here and the main panel.

The "GFCI Protected" half of the label is not required if the GFCI device is part of the socket itself, with obvious "Test" and "Reset" button.

You are not allowed to use the "No Equipment Ground" alone to guard an ungrounded 3-prong socket.  You must use GFCI, or use option 1.

To revisit "actually wiring the ground"

If your house is wired with metal conduit, in most jurisdictions the intact conduit is a legitimate ground path.  Your work may be done!

Some people believe that to retrofit a ground wire, they must replace the entire Romex cable.  Those people really need a copy of NEC 2014.  That document threw open the gauntlet for simpy retrofitting just the ground wire.  Of course if the Romex cable is roached, this may be a good time to replace it for that reason.


Is it bad to have multiple grounding electrodes?

The grounded conductor is the white or gray Neutral. The Grounding conductor is the green or bare ground. The Grounded conductor is expected to carry current in normal service. The Grounding conductor only carries current in fault conditions.

For a (current/recent) detached structure they should be isolated all the way back to the single bond at the service entrance. That means removing any Neutral-Ground bond, and keeping all the neutral wires  on a neutral buss that is isolated from the case. Grounding conductors should all be connected to the case and the grounding conductor (which may be metallic conduit) leading back to the service entrance connection.

The detached structure should have one (or more) grounding electrodes. If it has a concrete slab or footing in direct contact with the soil, that should have a UFER ground installed when poured these days, but often that detail is forgotten.

My building has 5 ground rods and a 100 foot well casing as grounding electrodes. The more, the merrier. But when the next building goes up, the neutral and ground remain separated all the way back the first building. And the next one will actually have the (required, actually, in this state) Ufer Ground.


There are some jury-rigged ways to test it - essentially building a small device that will route a limited amount of power to the ground wire. But if you aren't 100% sure of what you are doing, that is a bit risky. The simple solution is a 3-light GFCI tester which you can use for routine receptacle testing as well as GFCI.


If your heart is not set on a silver screen, I had good results using blackout cloth - this is white, rubber-impregnated cloth that is used for curtains.  I got a swath that was 48 inches wide - 1.21 meters, so a bit smaller than what you're looking for, but the largest they had available at the fabric shop.  By using a single swath, I avoided seams in the screen.  I made a 2.35:1 screen, so the final result was about 117cm x 275cm, which is really the largest screen my room could have handled.

I built a wood frame, stretched the fabric over it, and stapled it in place.  Four years later, it still looks great, and the total cost was under $100.


Eyelets or grommets

Sorry for a one-line answer, but that's all you need to know.


Best way to hang a server rack in the attic

Last place I'd put one, as a network/wiring pro. Basements (off the floor/above flood levels) are good, attics not so much, and anywhere you plan to inhabit is usually a poor choice (the noise gets very tedious very quickly.) Thus, an attic that you think will be cool enough because you'll convert it to a room that you will use is still not a good choice.
Apart from the background temperature of the space on whatever a hot day is in your mild climate, have you considered how you will deal with the heat this will be pumping out continuously when you've loaded it up with 70 KG of stuff that uses power?
As for mounting it, either drill into the masonry wall and use appropriate masonry anchors and bolts, or put planks across the framing it's sitting next to and use lag bolts. If planks on the front of the framing would upset your finishing plans, mount a plank (roughly 37mm or 1.5 inch thick) between framing members to be behind the finish layer you plan, and get that finish layer (or a piece of plywood the same thickness as your planned finish layer) in place behind the rack, before mounting it.


how do i troubleshoot a substantial AC volatge neutral to ground?

Could be a dangerous condition!  You may have lost the neutral or partially lifted in the heat pump,  and it it returning the current over the ground energizing the whole house ground.  One possibility is the new heat pump needed 4 wires with 240 and 120 loads and the installer used the ground as neutral... Just a wild guess...  How many wires in your panel box run to the heat Pump?
Prob a good idea to get an electrician in especially if it's effecting your electronics already.


How can I use cordless drill batteries in projects?

If you are willing to sacrifice a battery charger, you could gut the charging circuitry out of the charger housing and wire it as a battery dock.


What should I do with the extra wires in my switch box?

You should connect the new switch exactly as the old switch was connected. The "extra wires" likely feed the rest of the branch.


You could bypass the switch but there is a code requirement for a light or outlet to be controlled by a switch. I would just leave the switch on. Note it is not a resistor but a solid state SCR or Triac that is adjusting the waveform, a very small resistor is used to vary the gate voltage to the SCR or Triac. If a resistor was used it would get very warm in the wall because the resistor would have to dissipate the heat, solid state controls turn the power off for part of the waveform.


Why not use tile instead of mineral wool for sound proofing?

This is difficult to answer, because we can't read people's minds, but assuming it is correct that, for example, tile would cut the sound better than mineral wool, there are a lot of practical barriers:

Tile is not made for this, it would be very difficult / impossible to install. Bat insulation can just be stuffed in between studs and it stays in place while the wall is being sheathed on its own. Tile would keep falling out.

Tile would be much more expensive. For example, in my area, a roll of R11 insulation for a 2x4 wall cavity is about $10. This covers 50 sq ft, or 14.6 cu ft. The cheapest ceramic tile I can find here is $1.59 sq ft. and would be 3/8" thick. Doing the math, we would need 466 sq ft of tile to fill the 14.6 cu ft of wall cavity. Price would be $10 for the insulation, and $742 for the tile - the tile is 74 times more expensive. Even if you don't fill the cavity entirely ( don't think R11 would ), it would still be much more expensive.

Tile is also much heavier. Depending on your construction methods, you wouldn't be able to use sheetrock for the wall sheathing. This would also pose problems for upper floor walls.


Gypsum and ........... Equals drywall mud?

The compound is a complex combination often including water, limestone, expanded perlite, ethylene-vinyl acetate polymer, attapulgite, and other ingredients, this was from online ,  but it answers the question of what's it made of.


How do I open attic A/C unit to perform maintenance?

Do not just cut into the insulation board to inspect. At the most you might end up cutting some tape to free an access panel, but the main homeowner access is for replacement of the filter and that probably does not (and should not) have tape over it that has to be cut.

My Carrier furnace and a/c evap coils are vertical so I am not familiar with a horizontal system. There will be a sheet metal access panel that slides up or to the side about 1/2 inch and then is released allowing it to be pulled out. Or there may be twist locks which free the panel. Do you know where the filter is? It could be that someone sealed the edges of the filter access panel with duct tape (or the metalized tape), but most likely the filter access panel will not be sealed with tape. Do you know how to change the filter on this unit?

I personally from your picture do not see mold. I do see rust on the bottom and this is somewhat concerning, but I don't see mold.

I am not familiar with this Honeywell switch on the top, but even in Houston (I live in Dallas) I don't think that one would need the blower fan to be on all the time. Google the override switch and see what you can find about the function.

Edit See http://yourhome.honeywell.com/en/products/ventilation/fresh-air-ventilation-system-y8150 It appears that this is for a fresh air addition to the conditioned air stream. I don't have such a system, but I have to wonder if this is will work in Houston because the humidity is so high there and the winter climate is so mild.


If I remember right, the kind with a set screw have a rubber grommet and don't need tape (if there is a threaded connection then you should use some).

Use clear silicone where it meets the wall and leave a tiny gap at the bottom for drainage.


Current Code has very particular requirements for bathroom receptacles i.e. dedicated and 20A.  This does not apply to bathroom hardwired loads.  So we can avoid diving into that complexity.
The word "outlet" is ambiguous because NEC refers to everything as an outlet lol.
A hardwired load can be 15A or 20A if that's suitable for the loads. It can be on any circuit (except for certain circuits which are required to be dedicated to a different task, such as kitchen receptacles, garage receptacles, laundry room receptacles, bathroom receptacles, furnace, water heater, etc.)
This is also true of bathroom hardwired loads. They can be on any circuit not dedicated to something else. (and the above complexity that we're ignoring relates to putting them on bathroom recep circuits, which is useless here).
I imagine that for simplicity, you want to have the bathroom light/fan and the closet light on the same circuit. That is fine, as long as it is NOT a bathroom receptacle circuit.
It doesn't matter if the switches are in the bathroom.


How to achieve a sun-bleached effect with wood stain

Sealers are important for pine because the stain will tend to seep in otherwise, making it look blotchy.

Sealing after the fact is not optimal but probably better than not sealing at all. I would recommend re-sanding it before applying the sealer.


How can I remove plaster board/drywall rawl plugs?

Keep pressure on the screw while you unscrew it.  It will force the plug to unfold, making removal possible.  Once the plug is fully unfolded, the screw will come out no matter how much pressure you keep on it.

If for whatever reason that fails to extract the plug, you can usually do less damage by pushing the plug it into the wall versus trying to pull it out.


The putty is plumbers putty which doesn't need to cure, and in fact shouldn't ever shrink, crack, or harden. It's safe to use your sink immediately and just remove any excess that squeezes out. The only concern is if it continues to squeeze out more after you remove the excess, that may be a sign that the drain wasn't tightened down enough.


The short answer to the question is yes, two LiftMaster 882LMW door openers can be wired in parallel and work.

Please note that you cannot simply place a doorbell switch or any dry contact in parallel and expect this to work.

The long answer is that the 12Vdc coming from the garage opener itself is not just a DC voltage; there is a variable frequency PWM signal riding on top of this which communicates to an embedded STM8S103F2 microcontroller in the 882LMW.

I did not take my scope to the PWM signal, but my multimeter picked up a frequency range of ~6-14kHz.  The MCU likely uses input capture mode on a timer, and then returns the message with another PWM signal superimposed on the 12Vdc, or something like that.

Here is a picture of the back of the PCB.

My requirement is to make use of a computer controlled relay (dry contact) to open my garage.  I simple soldered two leads across the micro pushbutton and wired them to the relay.  My wires from the garage are now screwed to the terminals labelled red and white.

This works in parallel to the other 882LMW that's located in the entryway of my house.

I am not tinkering with this any further as I won't be able to reverse engineer the embedded firmware in the MCU, and it works the way I left it.


Can I install a new 30A breaker in an empty slot in 125A panel?

The first page of the manual indicates a CSA listing, which due to treaty bears the same weight as UL.  So you have to follow the instructions.  The listing is contingent on doing what the instructions say.

So yes, a 10/2 cable with 30A (greater than 25) breaker to a solitary single NEMA 5-20 socket, labeled for this one appliance, is what's called for.  This is a special socket that should not be used for any other appliance, unless that other appliance also specifies a "greater than 25A" breaker.

If you want to also support other circuits, then throw in a 10/3 and install a subpanel. Bonus points if it's a GFCI hot tub panel, because that will answer the GFCI requirements on any garage circuit.  Preferably a GE type that supports their weird 1/2" breakers because then you can use "double stuff" breakers for density and still customize the breaker size for each load.

By the way, you can't ordinarily bump breaker sizes in response to nuisance tripping.  You can do it here, because of a special motor rule, and because the instructions said so because of the special motor rule.


How to cut a 1 inch thick 12x48 plank in half (thickness)?

Sounds like what you're after is resawing-- which is typically done on a band saw with a wide blade. Then you have to clean up the saw marks, which does take some thickness away. So you may end up with two 3/8" pieces rather than 1/2".


Can I replace Slater boxless receptacles with conventional ones?

Yes, but you MUST cut in old work device boxes first. You CANNOT simply install standard receptacles in the holes in the walls.

Here is an example:


Sounds like the drain has no vent (or "air valve").  When there were two drains, one was serving as a vent when the other was draining.  If you had stopped one side, the other would have exhibited the problem you have now.


Baseboard water heat not heating one room; Rest of zone/house is good

First, if this is a forced hot-water system with baseboard heating, they're called convectors, not radiators.

Bleeding the system is fairly simple (though a bit messy and time-consuming), and, as you diagnosed, the most likely fix. There should be an air bleeder, or purging, valve at the end of each baseboard unit and one in the basement by the boiler, perhaps near or on an expansion tank.

Some valves are automatic, having an insert that expands when wet, effectively sealing the valve, and contracting when dry so air escapes. If that is the case, you can wait, and eventually, most air would bleed out... but that would take quitre a while, if your system had lost most of its water.

Manual and automatic bleed valves can also be loosened by hand, with a screwdriver or coin, or with pliers. Use caution, because an old fitting could be brittle and break if forced. Lift up the baseboard cover from underneath and swing the bottom out to access the valve at the end of the pipe. Have some rags handy, as there is inevitable water leakage while bleeding. Also, mind the hot water.

Though it's usually easier to access the main bleeder, it's at a lower point in the system and will not get out the last bit of air blocking heat to that room. However, it may be useful to purge some air from that, too.


I would not use any type of bolt through the branch.

i would use a rope or, better, a strap to make a collar around that branch and another around a branch behind to share the load, which will give ample support. Think of those 2 or 3" wide loading straps and then use a D-link to attach the swing to the strap, that way you won't damage the tree.

You could esily brace to two other branches...


How to know if a basement is dry enough to finish

It's not clear what you're asking exactly, but the bigger question is probably whether you'll be able to manage moisture once the basement is finished. If you can run a dehumidifier during the summer months and prevent extreme humidity, and if all drainage issues are handled, you should be fine.

Be cognizant of the right way to install vapor barriers and other moisture-handling mechanisms in your area. The best approach depends on a number of factors, such as climate, soil conditions, foundation type, etc. Speaking with local builders and inspectors would be wise.


Use your drywall knife to scrape out anything loose. If you're familiar with drywall finishing you just treat it like a normal new butt joint and feather the repair to make it appear flat. Usually 12-18 inches onto the finished surface is enough to hide the repair.


Repairing gaps between bamboo lock and click floor boards

You can't. Glued boards are never going to budge.


Is it safe to run a propane appliance from a portable propane cylinder?

Regardless, put the tank outside.

Plumb the house like you would for a huge tank, just bring it to an appropriate enclosure. Put your swappable tank there.

Gas pressure is determined by the temperature of the fuel in the tank, mainly the liquid fuel since it has almost all the mass.

Large or small tank makes no difference.

Piece of bad news though. Ever hear of the latent heat of vaporization?  1 BTU is the energy needed to raise a pound of water 1 degree F.  140 BTU will raise it from 72F to 212F (boiling). But you need to put in about 1000 more BTU to get it to turn into steam at 212F.  Only then, additional BTU will increase the steam temp further.  Same with propane.

The problem with a propane tank is when you draw off gaseous propane, liquid propane boils to replace the vapor pressure.  That boiling propane needs to get its latent heat of vaporization from somewhere.  It steals it from the other propane, making it colder.  Colder propane has a lower vapor pressure!

Hopefully the tank will absorb enough heat from the environment to keep your propane warm enough to give usable vapor pressure.  Otherwise pressure will fade.

Larger tank helps, as it has more surface area.


First it looks like the windows are put in reversed. The glazing putty, the angled places around the windows, have always faced out on old windows. What is now the outside should have a profile something like this

Although while looking for this image, I did find profiles that match what you have there too.

If they are reversed, the angled bottom will keep the window higher in the opening so the middle does not line up. If there is weatherstripping, the groove will not line up. If they are not reversed, and there is weatherstripping around the perimeter, there may be numerous coats of paint on the top and bottom, so the edge does not fit into its corresponding groove anymore, or the metal is bent so it doesn't fit either. More pictures of the frame conditions would help confirm this.


The only things that should limit you are number of fixture units being vented (dfu), and the required slope of horizontal vent pipes (1/4" per foot for 2" pipe).
Drain Fixture Units
If too many fixtures are being vented by this vent, the size of the vent will have to be increased.
Since it sounds like you're venting a residential kitchen, there's likely only a sink. So you'll probably not have a problem with this.
Grade
Vent pipes must be graded and connected, so that they drain back to the drainage pipe by gravity.  Which means, any horizontal sections of the 2" pipe will have to have a slope of 1/4" per foot toward the fixture drain.
This could be a problem depending on the surrounding structure, since the pipe will be 6" higher at the stack end.
1/4" * 24' = 6"


If it is a shingle roof, a pressure washer is going to tear it up. Barrel tile is another victum of presure washers unless it is a whole new roof. Old tiles will disintergrate because the bonding agents used to make them grow less adhesive as time goes by.

You should only use you garden hose and let the water run from at least three courses above the old leak, higher would be best though.

What happens most of the time is a simple fix when the roof is first put into place. (Make sure they lap the felt correctly, and do not leave any holes without tar being applied liberally in the right spots, meaning the hole and 4 inches beyond it, then the felt patch and some more tile. They should also slip the top of the patch under the top of the tear in the felt.

Also make sure they are using Simplex nails, not regular thin tabbed nails. Those will suck up much of the time causing a leak to just appear out of no where.

One thing to keep in mind, "Water does not Run Up Hill". in 35 years of construction I have heard that many times on the job and it is crock of Whale snot.


I give mixed reviews to tub refinishing.  I have had many tubs and surrounds refinished as opposed to replacing the units. Even though a good refinishing job is not cheap, usually around $300-$400, it certainly is less expensive than the labor involved in removing, framing and installing a new tub and surround. I have found a good sub-contractor for these jobs and the difference between a good long lasting job and a so-so job is in the prep. One sub I used years back did not take the time to really clean, sand and prep the surfaces before spraying the epoxy finish, had some problems and call backs within 2 years. I have a few jobs out there over 5 years old now, with no problems or complaints that my current sub has done, and done well. So I guess the moral of the story is, a refinish job can be a good long lasting solution if done properly with good materials. Side note: Don't wait until the original finish is worn to the cast iron. When rust is present, it makes refinishing more difficult and expensive.


Why doesn't my motion sensor light work?

This type of switch requires a small amount of power to operate, and since there is not always a return path available for constant power. This switch uses the grounding conductor as a current carrying conductor, and dumps a small amount of power to the grounding conductor. It's not the best design; in my opinion, but if the standards and safety organizations approve it it must be safe.

Because of this awful design, a solid connection to earth is required for this switch to function.  Which in your case, seems to be missing.  It sounds like there is a grounding conductor included in the cable assembly at the switch box, so I'd start by tracing the cable back to where it originates.  Follow the cable back to the nearest junction, whether that be another device or the service panel.  Open up the junction point, and inspect the wiring. If everything looks good at that point, continue back down the line until you reach the service panel.  You can use a tool like this Multi-Purpose Wire Tracer, to help trace the line through walls and ceilings.

If you reach the service panel, and all the connections along the way looked good. It means you likely have a break or some other damage to the grounding conductor inside the cable assembly.  If this is the case, you'll have to locate the damaged section and replace it.


Interior walls - why skim coat with joint compound?

I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing with "skim coat", but it's just a higher level of drywall finishing for improved sheen management.

  Level 1: This level means that your drywall joint tape has been
  embedded in joint compound, and nothing more.

  Level 2: This next level means that you have skimmed a thin coat of
  joint compound over the tape and covered the drywall screw holes. You
  can stop at this level if you intend to cover with tile.

  Level 3: For this stage, you apply a coat of joint compound to the
  tape and screws. Walls that will receive a heavy texture, such as
  knockdown texture, can end at this level. It would be pointless to
  progress beyond this level, since texturing is rougher than level 3.

  Level 4: This is the classic drywall finish.

  Here, you apply another coat of joint compound to the tape and screws
  and sand the dried compound.

  Level 5: The highest possible level of drywall finishing involves
  applying a skim coat, if applicable.
  ...
  The two instances when you need a level 5 coating: the finish will be glossy and/or light will be coming from an angle low enough to highlight bumps and depressions.

https://www.thespruce.com/the-five-levels-of-drywall-finishing-4120152

Modern joint compounds are used for their ease of application, relatively quick drying, and light weight. I'm not familiar with the application of plaster over drywall in modern scenarios. My 1950s home did have plaster over drywall, but that's a much more involved process than simply skimming wallboard.


Can I float click laminate diagonally without transitions in my space?

Answer(s)

Is diagonal placement possible? - Yes

Can you do it yourself? - Yes - but make sure you have the right tools in advance.

Is there a recommended room to start in? - Given your floor plan - I'd start in the dining room, as it looks like the single longest continual diagonal line runs from there into that little side corner room thingy that's past "E" on your layout (nice job there btw).

For diagonal placement in particular, all of the resources I've read so far talked about "starting in the middle of the room" - consider the "longest continuous line possible" - start there.  Running on a diagonal, you have a few options and you don't have to start on the absolute longest but find a good long one to use as your starter.

Any specific pitfalls I should watch out for given my floor shape? Yes - getting your first line right will be critical.  If you're going for a 45 degree angle, get it perfect.  Measure 3-4 times, mark start and end points, snap solid chalk lines (use hairspray to "glue" down the chalk), and check and re-check.

Next, using your chalk line, line up the boards on your starter chalk line.  Lay them along the line but be prepared to shift them along the line towards one wall or the other, so that at either end your distance from last FULL board to wall is about the same.

Initially your floor is going to want to shift around on you.  Once you have it where you want it, use a temporary means to keep it stable.  Take small blocks of straight wood and line them up against the edges of the starter strip and screw them down in place.  This will "lock in" the floor temporarily - and give you anchors you can move as you progress.  Once the floor becomes so large and heavy that it doesn't shift around on you, you can stop with the blocks - but given the length you're dealing with, that'll probably only be after you've got a good chunk of the first room done.

Most of your cuts will be pretty straight forward - set a chop saw at a 45 degree angle and use it to cut away the bits you don't need.  Save your remnants as they'll frequently be useful at the other end of a strip to fill in gaps.

Since it's click lock - suggest you take your sq footage and add 30% to your order for all those funky angles you're gonna be dealing with.

On your trickier cuts, like around doors, take your time, make sure you leave the manufacturer recommended breathing room, and be prepared for this to take longer than you think because you're choosing to do it a harder way than most.  Wear knee pads too. :)

Don't forget underlayment - but you needn't run it in the same direction as the flooring.

Looking forward to hearing how it works out!


Why is my sprinkler system backflow leaking after being winterized?

Your main shut-off is leaking ( not shown ) into the system. Until it completely stops water flow ,leave the red hose bibb open to prevent water from going into the rest of the sprinkler system. I would also open the unmarked blue handle valve to help the sprinkler system drain.


How to get the state callback from a relay switch

Actually use a double pole switch , one side for your control and the other side for your Feedback loop (indicator) vcc to supply the feedback when turned on. This is how it is done in the real world. (but that is the switch) to know if the relay is energized a similar setup is needed - one set of contacts for the control and the other for the feedback loop (indicator)  vcc to supply the feedback when energized.
In the real automation world these feedback connections would go to a PLC input and the PLC status for these inputs would be read by the program and / or the HMI .

EDIT 12 13 2017

After reading various comments I thought I should add this here:

Your wiring should be different - the relay should be the only control for the device hot wire. Your switch should control the relay just as your Pi Controls the relay (you can AND this or OR the function) Pi on AND switch on = device on. Typically if someone is remotely operating a device that could be a hazard to others - it should be an AND and you should have safety feedbacks to prevent operation if a hazard is present.

A rewire of your design is below.

EDIT 12/15/2017 BOTH TYPES AND AND OR CONDITION


How can I reproduce this painting effect?

I know (think) there is an additive you can put in paint or a glaze to give it the crack effect.  Or I believe it is hand painted sometimes.

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-apply-a-crackle-finish/index.html
http://makethebestofthings.blogspot.com/2010/05/crackle-finish-with-elmers-glue.html


Chimney on 100 year old home has pulled away from outside wall

You need to find if the chimney is leaning or if the house is leaning.  Use a plumb bob to check - the eye can be deceiving in these situations.   The plumb bob will tell you what you should do.

In the meantime, if you wish, you could put a board or metal flashing on the gap to shed the water while you figure out what to do.

BTW... it's unlikely you could "push" the chimney towards the house as it just has too much mass.


How does one identify compatible shower drain covers?

Drain covers are specific to the tile drain manufacturer and can be difficult to find. Yours, however, looks to be of a common type and is very much like the middle one in this picture. I would take careful measurements and make a paper and crayon "rubbing" of your drain frame and go to the best plumbing supply shop in town (try a really good tile supply shop as well).

This is a website you might try: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/draincovers.html

It is odd that there are no screw holes in the drain scupper, the cut-outs in the tile frame are made to provide screw clearance. There is a chance that your tile guy tiled in a drain frame that was not the style meant for the actual drain assembly. If that is the case you may have to resort to a "snap-in" style retrofit cover. They never look as nice as the original but it's better than an open hole.


Why does my washer's spin cycle activate only when set to the "super" size?

Because you mentioned the load size switch, it sounds as if it has issues detecting the empty tub when set to a minimum change level (small load); this may indicate a blockage of some sort.

There is a thin 1/4 inch tube that runs from near the bottom of the tub up to the water level switch inside the console.  Disconnect and blow the gunk out of that tube.  You will need to get inside the console and the front of the machine must be removed to do this.  Use a putty knife to the front, then unscrew the console.

If you had mentioned the speed switch making a difference, it would be the motor/transmission or something stuck slowing down the assembly.


Is there any code requirements determining how close a ceiling fan can be to a pendant light?

Roundabout "code" reference.
Several fan makers specify 39 inches (remarkably/suspiciously close to 1 meter) as minimum clearance from fan-blade-tip to pendant-light-chain.
Code requires that you follow the maker's instructions.
So, if the maker of your fan has language like that, which may or may not have the same measurement, you should follow the instructions of the maker of your fan.
If not, you're back to what common sense will insist on teaching you.


Is there a recommended vent for new roof?

Have you considered changing to a ridge vent?  The larger area of venting would give you more efficiency, it can be shingled over to hide it, the filtered ones a piece of material to prevent insects and dirt from getting in, and this one appears to not leak even under high winds:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100027903/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Since the ridge vent is installed at the top of the roof, you don't have the problem of water running down from above and going around a break in the shingles.


How does central vacuum suction compare to regular vacuum?

I'm answering my own question here - maybe and admin can move this as a comment to my original question:

I did some more research on how to detect and clear blockage in central vac system. I disconnected the vac bucket from the unit and then used a regular vacuum at each outlet. At one of them, a huge amount of debris came out, including a "fabric softener" sheet and some other bits of dirt. This must have clogged the system enough to drastically reduce suction.

The change in power is unbelievable.  Certainly more powerful suction now than my regular vacuum.


Is PVC Schedule 40 pipe safe to use in a potable water supply?

You should not worry about health. Most schedule 40 PVC is National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) rated for potable water, and it's likely that yours is. Do you see "NSF" printed on the pipe? Even if it isn't, I wouldn't worry about toxicity. The problem with PVC pipe is that it may have issues with leaks. It will degrade when exposed to UV light (such as sunlight), and also high temperature. Its pressure rating is to be derated at high temperatures. Because of this, PVC is not approved for use in houses for potable water.

There are many websites stating that PVC is both safe and unsafe. The trend that I see on the more scientific sites is that some of the chemicals used in PVC decades ago are unsafe, and also some of the plasticizers are also somewhat toxic (similar to the PBA toxicity scare a few years ago). But if your pipes are years old, most of what will leach out already has. Also, you can follow the advice which is given about houses with lead in their water system: Don't drink the hot water, and let the cold water run for a minute until it gets cold before using it.

Back to the real issue with PVC... its reliability with respect to hot water: Let's say that your hot water is at 140 F.... We can use a derating chart for PVC to find its actual pressure rating at higher temperatures. Based on the chart, multiply the 73 degree pressure rating by 0.22 to get 106 PSI. Although this is above the desired water pressure of 60 PSI, 106 PSI is not unheard of. Also, keep in mind that your hot water might be above this temperature, so the actual maximum pressure may be lower.

The solution is to replace your pipes with an approved material such as CPVC (a stronger type of PVC), PEX, or copper. All of these are considered safe for potable water (by the government and standards bodies), though one can find claims online of all of them being toxic.


How to fit two full baths in this space?

This is the best I could come up with your criteria. I like your design much better.
My drawing is very roughly to scale- I didn't spend too much time- I just wanted to see if there was a way to fit all that in there.
Trying to get that window to be in the hall bath just wastes too much space- basically creating a hallway.


I've done this on one room- taking a knock-down texture and skim coating it to make it smooth.

The downside is that you then are able to see every wave, bump, and bobble that the drywall installers didn't bother fixing because they knew it would be hidden by texture. ;)

I was able to get by with one coat and one sanding, but I was also applying a textured paint, so I might have had to do a second coat, otherwise.


Why does my furnace turn off when the thermostat's LCD dims?

What happens when you short out the two wires?  A simple mercury thermostat does that to turn the furnace on, so when you do it the furnace should come on.

If that works, then I'd guess that the new thermostat is defective.


7/16" or 1/2" OSB is a common, fairly inexpensive garage liner in my part of the world. It's consistently flat, and you can opt to show the relatively unmarked rough side (rough to offer traction on roofs, usually has nailing guidelines) or the smooth side, which will have plenty of informational printing but looks better painted. It's nice because you can mount light- and medium-weight objects anywhere on it.

image source
I usually install with 2" gold screws (do yourself a favor and get star/Torx drive). This makes the job easy and is removable. I tend to show the less-marked rough side which looks nicer if unpainted and hides screw holes better from things I've mounted and removed. (I dislike pegboard and just put screws in the OSB as I need them.)
Caveat: Walls adjoining habitable space must have a rated firewall. You can probably go over any existing drywall, but don't remove it. This may mean extending electrical boxes, but that's not difficult.
Side note: If you paint, don't go white. It looks all spiffy and surgical and whatnot for a year or two, then it's dingy and gross. Use a little creativity and get a medium-toned color.


How can I mark capped drip line outlets from irrigation systems?

Tie a piece of red or blue polyester twine onto the end of the pipe(s) and let it lay out on the ground surface for a few feet. Even if it gets covered over with some mulch a little bit of raking should quickly reveal its location.

An alternative is to make a carefully measured out map of that area of your yard. Put that into your computer for storage and also print out a copy which you would store along with your other important papers.


You are correct, the junction boxes must remain accessible.  The NEC 314.29 prohibits covering up boxes such that you'd need to remove "part of the building" to access the wires inside.  The drywall is considered "part of the building."
You can move or extend them so the boxes are flush with the drywall when you're finished, so you can access the wiring by removing the cover.
With a drop ceiling, opening a ceiling tile for access is not considered "removing" part of the building, so you can have junction boxes above the drop ceiling.

314.29 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, and Handhole Enclosures to Be Accessible.
Boxes, conduit bodies, and handhole
enclosures shall be installed so that the wiring contained
in them can be rendered accessible without removing any part of the building or, in underground circuits, without
excavating sidewalks, paving, earth, or other substance that
is to be used to establish the finished grade


What is the minimum required distance from a shower to an electrical outlet?

It must be GFCI (2009 residential codes, chapter 29):

  E3902.1 Bathroom receptacles. All
  125-volt, single-phase, 15- and
  20-ampere receptacles installed in
  bathrooms shall have ground-fault
  circuit-interrupter protection for
  personnel.

VA building codes are online: http://www.ecodes.biz/ecodes_support/Free_Resources/Virginia2009/09Residential/09Residential_main.html


Should I use foam spray insulation in my crawl space?

There are some very good spray foams on the market. Most are a two part system and a starter kit runs around $800.00. This would include the hoses, tanks and spray wands and enough material to do several hundred square feet, depending on thickness.  There are foams that are completely water and moisture resistant as well as mold and vermin proof. I sub out most of that type of work, so I don't have the brand names on the tip of my tongue, but you should be able to  investigate various types of foam and equipment appropriate for your application at your local specialty distributor of insulation products.


There might be some confusion because the type of switch you need is usually called a four-way switch in the US, and an intermediate switch in the UK. So for three or more switches to control the same lights, you need two SPDT switches on the ends, and four-way or intermediate switches in the middle. You can find the wiring diagram on Wikipedia.


Can I remove this interior brick chimney?

A masonry chimney can be used to carry exhaust from multiple sources. These may include an open fireplace on this floor or a gas-fired boiler in the basement. Some chimneys have more than one flue (the duct inside the chimney that contains the fumes) and the flues can combine inside the masonry so that the number of flues that exit at the top may be fewer than the number of inputs.

Before you consider demolishing that brickwork do some work to understand what purpose it served. Look on the other side of this wall as well as below and above it to understand what it may be servicing. If you can inspect the top of the chimney you can confirm how many flues there are. There are at least as many purposes to this chimney.

If you are not familiar with masonry work I would suggest having a professional come in to give you an estimate on demolition. They can help you to figure out what the chimney is there for while giving you an estimate of what it costs to have it professionally removed.

Assuming you conclude that demo is a good idea it's a straightforward task for someone with the right skills. But keep in mind that the replacement brick and mortar will not perfectly match what is there now. You can remove the "hump" but you will still see where it was in the brick unless you follow up by painting or whitewashing the entire brick wall.


If they are cluster flies, you have probably sealed them up inside the home. They got in during the summer and laid eggs that are hatching now. Here is a product to get rid of cluster flies. You can probably locate something similar in the UK.


I'm replacing an old outlet. Why are all 4 wires are hot?

When testing circuits like this, you really need a meter, not a wonder stick. The voltage testers indicate the presence of an electric field. In a box like the one you have there is an electric field and it can spread to the un energized wires. The tester only indicate the presence of voltage, not how much. Meters will tell you the actual voltage on the lines.


What type of flooring will match my existing Brazilian Cherry engineered flooring?

If it's a floating floor, your best bet is to take it apart, then put it back together mixing in the new boards so they're not all in one spot.

That said, are you sure the new boards won't match the installed ones? I'm assuming this might be on the edge of a room, so there may not be all that much fading to begin with.

As for using something else, you certainly could, but you'd likely have to go with at least the same manufacturer to ensure the joints match. And I doubt you'd get a better match than the ones you already have in the box anyways.


Can I attach Trex handrail to wooden balusters?

There is no reason you cannot mix Trex type boards/railings with wood products. Decks that use Trex type surfaces are usually framed with pressure treated lumber. If your balusters and other parts are not either pressure treated or regularly stained/sealed/painted, they will also deteriorate fairly quickly.

If you go ahead with Trex on wood, be sure to use coated screws meant for composites.

These have a special finish that resists corrosion and a special thread that grips composites well.

Some people use stainless steel, but I have heard reports of staining despite their "stainless" characteristics.


Is a space heater or my window heating unit more energy efficient?

Looking at the unit you linked to (and your comment on waiting for the "cycle" to finish), it appears to be a heat pump. Heat pumps are typically more efficient than electric radiators (e.g. a plug in space heater). They lose efficiency as the outside temperature falls, and eventually you should switch over to emergency or electric heat, which should be built-in to this unit. This is identical to the heat source you would have with a space heater. I doubt you'll see more efficiency out of a space heater (it all depends on the individual units), but if you do, it wouldn't be until it's very cold out.

Side note: The point to switch to electric heating is somewhere around the freezing temperature. I've seen comments ranging from 40F to 20F, that that may also vary from one unit to another. Depending on the unit, this switch may be automatic, or you may have to manually enabled it. If you get down to freezing outside and can't get above 65F inside, then I'd manually flip to electric heat.


Can I replace the thermopile with a thermocouple in my water heater, and have it work properly?

If the thermocouple doesn't generate sufficient power, it won't function properly.  The replacement device has to produce enough power, to hold the circuit closed.


Replace the Threshold of an exterior door

You can replace just the threshold. Sometimes it is difficult because the original threshold is screwed to the jambs as part of a complete assembly, or it lies under the door stop part of the jambs, but it sounds like you already figured that part out.

I would caution you to investigate and fix whatever caused the water penetration (in case there was an additional issue besides the old threshold) and repair any damaged wood underneath before you install it. I assume your new one is aluminum since you mention filling it with spray foam, screw it down well with stainless screws.The screws that come with them are not always the best ones to use.


if it doesn't bleed well this means the system is is not pressurized enough (if there are any radiators higher up they won't be heating at all) add some water to the system and try to bleed again

or there could be an airlock blocking the water flow; to fix this turn off all radiators except the one affected and let the pump force the water through


Drilling through a concrete slab for water drainage , if not done correctly, could lead to bigger headaches. If you need to correct the low area were the water pools it might be better to cut drain kerfs with a circular saw and a masonry blade. This would entail cutting a narrow channel that is pitched slightly to the nearest edge of the slab.


Wood finish to handle high temperatures (not turn cloudy)

I would not use a urethane finish as it will quickly turn with high heat, since it is a food processing area I would use linseed / flaxseed oil. It will preserve the wood and can handle some moisture. At my last house I had a large oak butcher block that I used linseed oil on it took a large amount of abuse as that's where I prepared meats for summer sausage and for large brew pots, when the surface got a bit chewed up I used a metal scraper purchased from a local butcher shop that shaved a tiny amount of the surface then recoated, I did try a blend of bees wax and oil 1 time but this created marks with large pots. The best advice I have is to use food grade oil and wipe up excess water don't let it sit the wort is a great food for "stuff" to grow in so a through wipe down after use is a good idea.


Should I attach the fence post(s) where my fence meets my house? How do I do it?

Don't attach the fence to the house. Aside from putting holes in your siding (not a good thing), your fence and your house will most likely move differentially. The attachment could result in a tear of the siding, which would be a bad thing.

Place the fence post close to the house, then run the fencing top and bottom supports up to within an inch or so of the siding (do leave a little gap, for that differential movement). Place the slats on the supports, allowing the slats to get just a bit closer to the siding.

You could even install a flexible membrane, similar to a product used to seal the bottom of a garage door at the floor, between the fencing and siding.


What is a solid beginner 3D modeling software to use to replace paper and pen for home projects?

I've used sketchup for making plans and blender for 3D modeling.


If you are SURE nothing is dripping there, easily tested by placing a dish over the spot during and after a rain shower, then the spot is probably absorbing moisture from the air.

Something may have been spilled on the decking there that absorbs moisture better than the rest of the decking. Like a sugary or salty drink, or an animal secretion....


How can I clean silicone mastic stains from a bath-tub and tiles?

Sometimes, I've had success with an eraser:

It won't damage tile, but results depend on how porous/grippy the tile surface is.

Amazon sells them, so should any local Office Supply or School Supply store.


What kind of joints are best used for a loft bed?

The joints in the design you referenced are actually plain lap joints held together by lag bolts or lag screws. If you wanted to get a bit fancier, you could always use half-lap joints or one of the other variations shown below. These will require a bit more work, but all but the dovetail lap shown below can still be done with just a circular saw and a chisel. The advantage of a half-lap joint is that the lags are no longer holding the weight of the assembly in shear. The wood of the column under the joint is supporting it in compression, while the bolts only hold it together.

(Image Source)

Either way, lap or half-lap joints are a plenty strong design, although the former lacks a little bit in aesthetics. If you're okay with the look, that will probably be the easiest method of construction, especially if you plan on disassembling it at some point (which you'll have to do if you ever plan on moving it out of the room!).

A butt joint would be if the two boards formed a T. These are used for the legs/vertical columns in the design you reference. For these, I'd use wood glue and wood screws to hold them together.

Wood glue will help strengthen all permanent joints. So I'd recommend gluing all subassemblies that won't need to be disassembled for transport. This will also help reduce confusion when reassembling later.

(Image Source)


Should I use longer screws or cardboard shims for fixing skewed doors?

Cardboard shims have been a long time fix for door hinges to adjust the gap. Make sure first the screws are still holding. If they have gotten loose then it may only need tightening or perhaps filling the old hole with carved dowels and resetting the original screws to get the door to draw back in place. You may use longer screws to accomplish the same thing.

Another issue with houses over time is the floor framing shrinks or sags over the span and the door will not line up at the strike because of the jamb has lowered on one side more than the other. To fix this will take more than resetting screws or adding shims behind the hinge.

I can write more on this type of fix if you find that may be the case.


Can I attach a chandelier light fixture to a ceiling fan?

Is it impractical to ask him to attach the chandelier to the fan?

No more so than asking strangers on the internet. Probably far less so since he can get his hands on the fan and the chandelier to address the points below.
Some points to consider:

How much does the chandelier weigh in comparison to the light kit designed for the fan?

Weigh the existing light kit (if there is one), or look up online to find the light kit appropriate for the fan. If the weight isn't listed, contact the manufacturer and ask.
Ceiling fans are already heavy, adding the extra weight of the chandelier could bring the whole thing down on your granddaughter's head. Not good.

Will the chandelier's ceiling mount match the size of the fan kit mount?

It might be possible to make an adapter, but since ceiling fans vibrate a lot when they run, this needs to be a very secure mount.

Are you willing to have an antique chandelier modified to fit the fan's mounting?

It may take drilling additional holes in the chandelier to make it fit to the fan, whether directly or through an intermediary mounting adapter.

How low will the chandelier hang once it's attached to the bottom of the fan?

Your granddaughter may not bump her head on it (yet), but her parents might.
Shiny, dangley things are very attractive to younger kids (up to the age of, oh, say 12 or so) and are likely to be viewed as play things, not respected as antiques.

How fragile is the chandelier?

Ceiling fans vibrate a lot and this could cause damage to the chandelier.

Does the chandelier have a lot of dangling glass bits?

Ceiling fans vibrate a lot and this could cause a lot of annoying noise.

Was the ceiling fan mounted to a properly secured, ceiling-fan rated box in the first place?

As was pointed out by J... in his (now deleted) comment, ceiling fans are often retro-fitted into regular ceiling light fixtures and are somewhat precarious to begin with. The extra weight may just cause the box to part company from its mooring.
While your electrician son is looking things over to assess the practicality of this modification, he should ensure the fan is mounted in a proper box that's properly attached, just as an added security measure to ensure the fan and granddaughter don't meet in an unplanned and unpleasant way.

Since your son is an electrician, he should be fully qualified to make the determination if this is doable electrically (can't imagine that bit would be difficult at all), and would, I'd imagine, be able to manage some sort of mounting adapter as necessary.
You and the granddaughter's parents (no indication if the electrician is her father or uncle) will need to assess the other points to determine if this is the proper time and method for passing a family heirloom on to the next generation.


Can garage and living space lighting be on same circuit?

This is fine
There are no requirements for dedicated lighting circuits anywhere in a dwelling unit; in fact, with LEDs, having all your lights on a single circuit isn't that far-fetched an idea in this day and age.  So, since your circuit is AFCI protected, it meets the requirements for living room lighting, and since the garage is attached, it can share house circuits, by and large.  (Note that the 2020 NEC requires a dedicated 20A circuit for garage receptacles, but this has no bearing on the garage lighting circuit.)


If you were doing a lot of freehand sheet metal work, I would recommend a nibbler (it takes little bites out of sheet metal) or set of powered shears with two cutting edges (they literally create a single thin strip of curled up waste material — my Milwaukee shears create a curled strip about 1/4” wide).

A band saw would be another option if you have one and it is large enough for the size of sheet metal strip you want.

A jig saw or sawzall with metal cutting blade and the sheet metal very well secured to an appropriate work surface might be the best diyer-friendly option if it is something you only need to do a couple of times and you already have one of those types of saws.