In one case in our house, the electrician installed a new cable (helper "fished" it in the attic) from the switch box to the location of the new ceiling box. The old cable to the receptacle was disconnected from the switch and the two wires connected with a wire nut. That receptacle is now always powered.

In our case the whole duplex receptacle was switched. In some cases only one receptacle of the duplex is switched and the other is always on. In that case the cable for the switch loop can simply be disconnected at both ends. At the receptacle end you would then need a short jumper or jumpers to replace the broken off tab or tabs. Or put in a new duplex with the tabs intact.

EDIT
There are different ways the switched receptacle can have been wired: 1. The hot feed cable enters in the switch box or 2. The hot feed cable enters in the receptacle box.

If you have case 1, then you will have both hot and neutral in the switch box. If case 2, then you might or might not have a neutral in the switch box. You need both hot and neutral in the switch box to work the light unless you power the light from some other source.


Need help determining if a multiwire branch circuit is wired correctly

Use a multimeter to measure voltage between the two hots (black to red). You should get somewhere around 240 volts. If you get 0 volts, the breakers are on the same leg.

An empty service panel looks like this

I've drawn rectangles where breakers would go, and labeled the legs A and B. As you can see, breakers across from each other (left/right) are on the same leg, while breakers next to each other (up/down) are on different legs.

If you measured between breaker 1 and 2, you'd get 0 Volts. This is because they're on the same leg, so they're at the same potential. If you measured between 1 and 3, you'd get ~240 Volts. These breakers are on separate legs, so they're not at the same potential.


We have used Filter sand for construction , Is there a problem in this sand?

I had to Google Trichy and filter sand to try to decipher your question.

I'm guessing you mean you are using river sand from the Trichy area (Bangalore, India).  For structural concrete, you should have sand (about 1 mm), gravel (5 to 20 mm), and cement.

If you have sand but no gravel, that is not good.  Gravel but no sand, also not good.

Some sand is dirty, with clay or organic material, and that is not good...but you say filter sand so that should be clean.  Some sand is too round/smooth to make a good bond and some, like crushed coral or pumice, is too soft.

In US we have very specific mix designs, test the sand and gravel, and we break samples of cured concrete to make sure it is as strong as advertised before removing formwork or shoring.

Good luck!


Can you glue vinyl cove base directly to drywall?

Well you can glue them - that is really the only way to install them.   However I have redone quite a few garages...
I would just install azek or PVC trim boards - that's it.   Paint them whatever color you want and you install with finishing nails and don't have to worry about water (if done right they can protect your drywall from water on floor) and don't have to worry about pealing or replacing (you just repaint).
Not to dog vinyl cove (I have installed it commercially) but it really isn't a "home" product and it certainly shouldn't be used in areas that will see high temp and moisture changes.


Woodford faucet water leaking out of little holes near hose

Those holes are probably part of the now required anti-backflow feature. There are rubber seals inside that must be replaced.
Shut off the water at the valve in the pic and unscrew the cap on the left. There will be parts inside which must be replaced. Looks like a large Allen wrench fits inside. If you don't want to get a special large Allen wrench, one could probably use a pipe wrench or channel locks.
EDIT  Before you take it apart be sure that the hose you are connecting to it is threaded on correctly and has its own washer seal in place.


What is the order of installation for a stair railing?

Wickes (UK DIY store) sells stair packs and has general fitting instructions.

These are available on-line. They are too long to summarise here, but do take you through the process step-by-step.


What are the best option to Rekey My New House?

Rekey
You can probably rekey the locks yourself, depending on what brand and type of locks they are. The process isn't too difficult, you'll be a pro after one or two.
You'll have to remove the handles and deadbolts from the doors, so you'll probably want to go one at a time.  But if you like doing little projects like this, rekeying them yourself could save you some money.
Check amazon for rekey kits, but make sure you know what brand locks you'll be working on first.  I recently picked up a kit for less than $20. If I remember correctly, the kit had 50 of each pin and all the tools that were required.
If you decide to go this route, there are tons of great videos on YouTube that explain exactly how to do it.  Watch a few, and you'll be an expert in no time.
Locksmith
A locksmith will probably save you a bit over a wholesale change out. Again you'll probably want to do it in stages, unless the locksmith can guarantee they will be done in a couple hours.
Replacement
Replacing all the hardware is probably going to be the most expensive option.  However, it does give you the opportunity to switch brands, styles, quality, security level, and technology level.
Depending on how many doors you have, you might still have to rekey some of the new hardware (or special order it). Since most packages off the shelf only handle up to two doors.


What could be causing cracks in the drywall of a newly renovated home?

I am not a structural engineer.  I'm just a homeowner/remodeler.  This kind of diagnosis requires a site by a structural engineer.  If you are really concerned about your house, I'd recommend hiring one for an hour or two to visit your home and provide their opinion.  Cost is likely $125-$250.  Don't get talked into making complicated drawings for lots of money unless they see that there is a problem.  You may already have some drawings if you had a permitted remodel.

However, I can talk about what might generically cause issues like this in a house.

There is, as BrownRedHawk suggestions, the benign explanation.  These crack could be normal signs of age, material expansion, or harmless settling.  If these cracks are primarily at corners or in lines at seams in the drywall, then they may simply be a bad mud job on the drywall.  Even how you hang the pieces around doors and windows can significantly affect cracking.  If it is the benign problem, you could probably just have a drywaller redo the cracking joints, possible with fiber tape if that wasn't used last time or corner beard, and see if it cracks again.  I wouldn't do that until you eliminate the more serious problems.

However, you could have more serious problems.

Some possibilities:

if you have an especially wet year, especially in areas with clay or
a high water table, expansion of clay soils could cause some lift and
settle of the house or the water table could cause a new range of
settling.  If either problem is chronic, it should be addressed with
floating basement walls and/or basement slab drainage.  Neither are
cheap solutions.  You probably know best whether you live in a high
water table, a clay soil area, or had a very wet or very dry year.
If door and window operation is affected or if enlarged or added any windows, the structural elements around the window or door may
have been compromised or installed incorrectly.  During an old
remodel, I found two previously remodeled windows where the header
was unsupported (improperly installed).  This could cause some
movement in the wall or ceiling around the window, cracking the
drywall.
If you removed any walls during the remodel, even if you didn't think they were structural, they may have been accommodating some
other structural weakness in the house.  If you did this kind of work
and that is the area that is cracking, you'll definitely need to talk
to a structural engineer.
Did you convert any flooring from carpet to tile?  Tile, especially if properly installed on concrete board, is quite heavy.  If some
element of your structure was at its load, the tile load could have
caused some settling into the new load.  I might expect some cracking
tile in this situation.
Were any roofs lor gutters or drainage systems altered or compromised during your remodel?  Is it possible you now have
drainage water running next to your foundation etc that was
previously safely directed away?
If there was heavy equipment or digging on your site during the remodel, a french drain system outside the house could have been crushed or destroyed by the digging or heavy equipment.  If you know
where water goes into your french drain system and where it goes to
daylight again, you could have it camera snaked by a professional
sewer cleaning company.  You could also try a poor mans trick of
filling it with the garden hose.  If it doesn't come out the other
end, you probably have a problem.
Is your water usage excessively?  If you have a leaking water main or sprinkler system, which would probably be indicated by heavy water
usage, the water could be running underground near the foundation and
causing settling or expansion.
Last you could have an actual foundation problem.  A crack in a slab or a really old foundation (think stone not concrete) could be
failing and causing some cracking.  If your foundation is visible
around the outside of the house (most older homes have some
'freeboard' concrete showing), you might be able to see a problem.
Or if you have a crawl space you could examine the foundation in the
crawl space.  I don't think this is especially likely unless you have
a stone rubble foundation.

So those are some very general things that could cause this problem.  I'd strongly suggest investing in an hour or two of a structural engineer's time if for no other reason than to sleep better at night.  If something really foolish has been done structurally, hopefully they would notice and you could correct it before the problem becomes more serious (structure or life threatening).  I'd also consider having a drainage guy out to look at your gutter and drainage systems if they aren't in great shape.

Hope that helps.


In order to repair these do I need to use primer and paint?

should I change to a better compound for the middle crack?

It isn't about a "better compound", it's about the right product that works well for you. Your product is closer to spackle (a hole patching product) than drywall joint/topping compound. Although stronger, it is not surprising that it is more difficult to sand. Your product will work, but you may spend more energy and time getting it smooth and flat. If you hate it, try using regular joint compound. Joint compound is not as strong, takes longer to dry, and shrinks when it dries (requiring repeat applications).; however it is very easy to sand, and goes on creamy and smooth from your knife.

  Do I need to use primer and paint after compound

Yes, unless you will accept obvious patch marks on your wall and understand that the repair will be easily damaged if touched.

You need to apply several layers, each successively wider than the previous, and sand flat between each layer, if you want the patch to look good. Even then, it takes experience to create a totally unnoticable repair.


Why are some outlets in my bedroom working and some do not/

Hard saying without more info.  However, assuming all 5 outlets are on the same circuit I would say what happened is all of your outlets are daisy chained together.  The two that are working are earlier on in the chain.  The next outlet in the chain something went wrong with it, thus affecting all the outlets after it.


What tape should I use to seal leaks in forced air heating system?

Looking at the specifications on the page you linked to, it appears to be made of the same basic materials as other duct tapes: plastic coated fabric with a rubber adhesive.  Premium Grade it may be, but I think you'll run into the same problems -- it'll get brittle and crack with age.  I've used aluminum foil tape where I've needed spot repairs; Home Improvement 1-2-3 says to use duct mastic when installing ducts.

I found this article very useful: Can Duct-Tape Take The Heat?

  Duct Tape Cannot Take The Heat

  Although our testing has not been able
  to differentiate amongst other sealant
  products, the data shows that cloth
  duct tape is not a good sealant for
  use in ducts that operate at much
  above ambient temperature. We believe
  this is due to the rubber adhesive,
  but cannot state so definitively. For
  the most part, cloth backing and
  rubber adhesives go hand in hand. Thus
  it is not surprising that the other
  sealant products have not demonstrated
  any of the failure modes we have seen
  in the duct tapes. There are a few
  products that use rubber adhesives
  with non-cloth backing and we intend
  to test these in the future.

To address your side note about Class 1 ducts: from the scope for UL 181 Standard for Factory-Made Air Ducts and Air Connectors

  Class 0 - Air ducts and air connectors having surface burning characteristics of zero.

  Class 1 - Air ducts and air connectors having a flame-spread index of not over 25 without evidence of continued progressive combustion and a smoke-developed index of not over 50.


According to Table R602.3(1) of the International residential code (IRC), you have to use two 16d (3 1/2" x 0.135") fasteners to end nail the top or sole plate to a stud. If the studs were toe nailed to the sole plate, then either three 8d (2 1/2" x 0.133") or two 16d (3 1/2" x 0.135") fasteners would be required.

  International Residential Code 2012

  Chapter 6 Wall Construction

  Section R602 Wood Wall Framing

  R602.3 Design and construction. Exterior walls of wood-frame construction shall be designed and constructed in accordance with the provisions of this chapter and Figures R602.3(1) and R602.3(2) or in accordance with AF&PA’s NDS. Components of exterior walls shall be fastened in accordance with Tables R602.3(1) through R602.3(4)...

If by some chance these screws are equivalent to 16d nails, then they should be acceptable. However, I doubt they're equivalent, and therefore should not be used.

There's no specific fastener schedule for interior nonbearing walls, while interior load-bearing walls are required to be framed the same as exterior walls.

  R602.4 Interior load-bearing walls.
  Interior load-bearing walls shall be constructed, framed and fireblocked as specified for exterior walls.

  R602.5 Interior nonbearing walls.
  Interior nonbearing walls shall be permitted to be constructed with 2 inch by 3 inch (51 mm by 76 mm) studs spaced 24 inches (610 mm) on center or, when not part of a braced wall line, 2 inch by 4 inch (51 mm by 102 mm) flat studs spaced at 16 inches (406 mm) on center. Interior nonbearing walls shall be capped with at least a single top plate. Interior nonbearing walls shall be fireblocked in accordance with Section R602.8.


Several dead outlets, but breaker is fine

With a home this old it probably has been updated.
Are there still 2 prong outlets? If modern 3 prong some level of updating has been done. It is possible that they used back stab outlets very easy to wire but not reliable.

With the circuit breaker off, pull the outlets that are not working. Use caution when pulling the outlets because the original braided wire may still be there and the insulation can be fragile. Examine the connection to the outlet--if the wire is pushed into a hole, this is probably your problem. Most outlets have a slot next to the hole that will release the wire or it may have burned loose. If there are screws on the side move the wires to the screws or purchase new outlets with screws.

If you find plastic-coated wires, this is good news, as all the wiring was replaced. I have replaced hundreds of these back-stabbed outlets and this is where I would look. I've found everything from a wire totally burned off to ones that just slide out of the outlet.

There is also a slim possibility of a wire nut being loose but that is really rare. Replacement only takes a few minutes and is something most DIY folks can do with just a screwdriver and pair of wire strippers.


If surface mount and going around a corner we usually use conduit bodies.
I usually use LB’s the opening is on the back and they have gaskets.
It is nuts since conduit is a wet location outside but rain tight couplings are required. These are usually compression type.
For drainage, I usually drill a small hole (1/4” or less)  in the bottom of my receptacle or switch boxes outside or any place I have splices I don’t want the fitting to fill up with water.
There are short radius 90’s but I don’t remember these approved for wet locations where most LB’s are.


Should I periodically air out the vapor barrier in my crawlspace?

"allow the dirt to breathe" doesn't even sound like an urban legend. Just sounds plain pointless. The entire point of the vapor barrier is to keep the moisture out of the crawlspace--so leave the barrier there. The dirt will be OK.


How can I save my gunite pool that is in danger of cracking with freeze guard disabled by power outage?

Jump in and break the ice periodically. Minnesotan up!
Seriously, walk the perimeter on a regular basis and bust the ice up with a shovel or other heavy tool. Unless the ice gets thicker than say a half inch across the entire surface it won't cause damage.
Covering it will certainly help. You have a lot of heat in the ground, so if you insulate the top it'll stay much warmer. Pull your cover over it and throw all your extra laundry on it. Dark colors absorb solar heat.


The Code requires a minimum ceiling height of 7’-0” for habitable spaces, unless 1) it’s a slopped ceiling, 2) beams in ceilings 3) basement remodel, 4) bathroom or shower.

1) Slopped ceilings shall have at least 50% with at least 7’ height and slope down to no more than 5’.

2) Beams in ceilings spaces not less than 4’ on center, can drop down 6” below the 7’ ceiling.

3) Basements can have 6’-8” ceilings in non-habitable spaces.

4) Not more than 75% of a sloped ceiling in a bathroom can be less than 7’ if a space in front of toilet, sink, shower is 6’-4” high.

Yes your 2x8’s at 16” on center spanning your maximum length of 11’ will be strong enough and comply with the structural code requirement of providing a minimum of 40 lbs. per square foot. (Sistering a joist to the original joists may be overkill.)

However, you have other issues regarding ceiling heights, exits, etc.


Suggestion for fixing leaky exterior door handle

I would remove the handle, clean it as well as the door, and use an exterior grade silicone caulking (and plenty of it; enough to squeeze out a little) on the inside of the bell's perimeter as well as screw holes of the outside handle, and re-install it. Clean up any squeeze out.

I would not caulk the inside side of the knob as you want it to leak again to alert you that is leaking once more (your fix has failed) rather than your door becoming squishy.


line locator indicates voltage over the whole wall, I need to drill some holes

I did a CW transmitter with a BJT and XTAL that I had on hand. I do connect this transmitter on wires and then I put a resistor to the end and use a AM/SSB receiver. I can find a circuit if you are interested  and if you own a small long wave radio with SSB receiver.


What am I missing when blowing out water from my sprinkler system?

My guess would be that there is something wrong with the backflow preventer.

Most likely, the air inlet valve is not sealing properly. When pressurized from the side marked "normal flow" (which is where your tap is), it should open the check valve, and also force the air inlet valve shut.

It's probably a rubber gasket, and might be worn out and need to be replaced, or maybe something is physically holding it open. Try pushing on it to see if you can get it to close all the way. Some silicon grease around the gasket will help it form a good seal and prolong the life of the gasket.


Why would water pressure at my faucets change after turning off the water main for some time?

Debris. Mineral buildup, sand, etc.... You loosened it up, when the water came back on it pushed it into your valves and aerators. Pull the aerators off and clean them out. Of it improves, no need to pull the valves out. Of better, but not the way it was before, turn water off statue faucet and pull the valves out and clean them.   I just did the same thing 2 days ago and have 1 more faucet to clean the valves in.


Wall Mount TV to Drywall with Backing (Without Studs)

Not terribly common, but common enough. There are a couple or more reasons for this configuration. My main understanding is that attached Condos are between Commercial and Residential construction, but not purely one.
The plywood could be satisfying a Durability Requirement from the Commercial side, while the Fire Resistance of both is satisfied by the Drywall. It could also be a poor attempt at blocking for wrongly hung drywall. Though lame, it's literally light-years beyond the entirety of "expert" and "professional" drywall installers.
Concerning your Snap Toggles, I'd nip the plastic head off the end and use the legs to splay them right. Or, a straightened paper clip could coax the toggle to toggle correctly. BUT, pictures 1 and 3 look like you're drilled into studs and your Snap Toggles would only ever work in just picture 2's openness.
If all of that fails, then I think your best bet is the good old Hollow Wall Anchor pictured below. It's a bit weaker than a Wing Toggle but can work perfectly well in all of your pictures' situations. Here's a video to explain that you need LONGS instead of shorts and how they operate. How To Use Hollow Wall Anchors https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNFv65-QTPI


I apparently wasn't paying attention when I took the old switch out, and had reversed the positions of the power wire with one of the travelers. I was sure that the power wire attached to the black screw on the switch, but when someone else looked at the switch, he suggested the power wire should go to one of the brass screws. After wiring everything back up the switch is now working.


Changing a 4 wire electrical cord to a 3 wire electrical cord for a range in a 1905 home

No.
You should follow the manufacturer's installation instructions, and install a 4-prong cord on the range.  You should never replace a 4-prong range receptacle, with a 3-prong.

As @JPhi1618 points out, it looks like your 4-prong receptacle is wired incorrectly.  The bare grounding wire should go to the green screw terminal, while the white "neutral" should go to the silver screw terminal.
Also as @JPhi1618 points out. If there's no grounding conductor in the cable feeding the receptacle, you'll have to address that issue separately.


It also looks like there is a small stream going down the spout towards the handle. My suspicion is that there is enough internal corrosion that you will likely, even if you seal all the current leaks, develop more in short order. If that was my home I would replace it. If cost of replacement is an issue, I would guess that some epoxy (J B Weld or similar) would be an ugly but functional temporary fix, until more corrosion eats through a different area.


Can I use exposed UF instead of THHN in conduit to outdoor AC disconnect?

UF cables can be installed outdoors without being in conduit unless it is somewhere where it could possibly be damaged. So no, it can't just be run plain to a disconnect and tacked to the wall. Any decorative PVC would have to be strong enough to provide protection for the cable. The same goes for the run from the disconnect to the compressor unit as it could definitely be damaged. Since it's hard to run UF in conduit, you'd be better off just installing the conduit and pulling individual conductors.


Can only use 1 water source at a time? Shower stops running when faucet is on, vice versa

Sounds like you still have a leak. A big one. Try cutting off your sprinkler system water supply and see if that helps.


Theories for cause of tripped breaker when power use was low due to vacation

The "four rooms on a breaker" and the re-trip with a flash, along with the routine shutoffs owing to rewiring the poles... together completes the picture.

Four rooms is an enormous load for any circuit, especially when one of them is a kitchen. And this is a smaller 15A circuit.  And there are "safety power strips"** and as such, I suspect there are also other loads which you did not mention or are unaware of.

In any case, this circuit is certainly maxed out.

It's also possible the fridge is getting old and tired, or even having a ground fault.

So here's what we know.  When you reclosed the breaker, you got a flash, "foof" and retrip.  And you did it again (bad move),  same result.

Certainly it's reasonable to assume that if you manually shut it off, and later turned it back on, it would trip again.  Ditto if you shut off the whole panel/house.  Ditto if there was a power outage, and not all outages have to do with scheduled work.  (This assumes the freezer has warmed up a bit and wants to cycle on: if the freezer is sanguine, it may not trip.)

This is an immediate, big-flash, magnetic mode trip, which only happens at 5 to 10 times a breaker's thermal mode current rating. What would cause that? Inrush current at startup - this is a characteristic of most motors, most lightbulbs, and most power supplies.  And this explains why you can power everything up if you start each one at a time.   The fridge's current draw is dramatically lower once its motor has spun up, so as long as you introduce each inrush current one at a time, you are OK.

Inrush current is why the breaker's magnetic trip rating is so much higher than its thermal trip rating. A great deal of it is tolerated.

On power restore, everything restarts at once and they are stacking to cause a magnetic trip. This shouldn't happen.  Either one appliance is defective and causing an extraordinary startup load, or you just have way too much stuff on this circuit.

Inrush current applies every time an appliance cycles on, e.g. A fridge will turn on and off intermittently as needed.  If two big appliances both happen to cycle at the same time, you will get a spurious, unexplained trip.

What you really need is a dedicated circuit for fridge and for freezer.  If the landlord is fond of removing the panel deadface, this shouldn't be too much of a challenge for him, I see 3 empty spaces.

Or it may be time to replace an old fridge, or at least its motor's start capacitor.

Figure out which loads are on which breakers, and how much each load realistically draws... and move things around so they are sane.  A Kill-a-Watt will tell you what any appliance or power strip draws.  Unfortunately I don't onow of a device like that which will tell you about inrush current.

** "safety power strips" are not a thing, by the way.  Strips are receptacle splitters, to give you 6 sockets where you had 2.  Used well, they can be safe, but all the loads on them together add to the demand on the circuit, so it is exactly the same as if they were plugged in directly.  So if the notion is "they let me plug more stuff in", that is only true if all their power draws add up to a sensible number.

As far as safety, they certainly add anything but that, and they are probably the cheapest and most shoddily made part of your entire wiring system (unless they're Tripp-Lite, then nevermind.) Perhaps they mean "as opposed to this other unsafe power strip".


How do you estimate the probability of failure in this case?

The bigger problem is there's no such thing as #16 wire that is certified for use in AC mains wiring inside houses.  Look at the NEC Chapter 3 wiring methods, which enumerates each and every allowed wiring method.  All of them call out wire or cable types that do not exist in 16 AWG.
So if 16 AWG is being used, someone is doing something illegal.

Using 16 AWG cordage as a substitute for permanent wiring (NEC 400.8)
Using 16 AWG speaker, automotive, etc. wire not approved for AC mains (NEC 110.2).

The only exception is wiring that is present inside appliances.  Those follow a different Code body called the UL White Book, authored and maintained by Underwriter's Laboratories.  Because of the very short distances inside appliances, and dependent on the wires' ability to cool inside the machine (or alternately approved use of high-temp wire where it has no chance of burning a user), it is possible to use smaller wires inside an appliance.
There's another Code out there called NESC which applies to utility company wiring outdoors (i.e. their side of the weatherhead).  They can overload wires in ways NEC does not allow, but remember, those wires are not inside a structure.  And the electric company has financial incentive to keep those wires cool, since it's on their side of the meter, so they pay for heating the great outdoors :) They also have direct real-time observation of the load level on those wires due to smart meters, which can be programmed to "phone home" if draw exceeds safe limits for the service drop.  Often when they upgrade someone's service, they will not upgrade the drop wires, betting that the customer won't actually use all the service they have, until the meter tells them otherwise.


Installing New T8 Ballast; need wiring diagram

The new ballast should've come with a wiring diagram. It might even be printed on the ballast itself.

In general I think most (all?) T8 ballasts have blue wires going to one end and red wires going to the other. Are you replacing a T8 ballast or something else? T12s are wired differently so make sure to follow the new ballast's wiring if you are replacing an older one.


Your new light probably has insufficient terminals and you're connecting wires which should not be connected, causing a dead short.
You need a 4-terminal ceiling rose or connection block: live (red, or brown); neutral (black, or blue); switched live (black with red marker); and earth (bare, sleeved green-yellow).
The earths should all go in the brass terminal to the top left - I can't see where they connect at all, they must not be left unconnected and pushed up into the ceiling - and the lives should be in the middle terminal marked Loop, not in a separate terminal.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/House_Wiring_for_Beginners#Lighting


Is there a way to fix a small plumbing leak from inside the pipe?

I know a lot of industrial non-permanent fixes, and methods of investigation but there is to my knowledge no surefire way to do this permanently and solidly without opening it up, soldering, replacing or clamping.

An example of a temporary fix - you can maize it. That is what the mechanics at work do when there is a leak. (it is not easy, safe or practical to shut down a 50MW industrial furnace for smaller water leaks, but stop once in a while and fix them all)

I was astonished, I thought this was some high tech stuff, but it is quite literal. They add cornflour to the circuit. (a degenerate brandname of corn flour around my parts is "Maizena" - hence they call it "maizing"). If the leak is rather big-ish (like a faucet at full opening) they add corn flour and sawdust. If it is any bigger than that, people get nervous and the yellow-helmets start rushing about.

But, to reiterate - no, a leak should be mechanically investigated and fixed. You cannot know if the source is a pinhole leak, a bad fitting or even where the leak or fitting is that is leaking. Dripping only signifies where the water is leaving the surface of the pipe and hitting another surface. It could be leaking somewhere else. It could be leaking all the time, only dripping when you run the hot (running water has less pressure. Maybe it is spraying constantly). Water where it shouldn't be is a serious problem - it can cause a host of unpleasant second order issues (mold, rot, rust, cracks, bugs, electrical shorts... etc). There are plenty of temporary solutions, but few proper ones.


what kind of faucet is this and how do I take off handle?

You should find a set screw under the small colored plug.


Is it ok to replace all 2-prong receptacles with GFCI ones without identifying head of circuit?

If you want, you can certainly put GFCI outlets everywhere. Just be sure to not use the LOAD terminals on any of them. Instead, use pigtails to connect both incoming wires and outgoing wires to the LINE terminals. If you have any outlets where multiple hot and/or neutral wires connected (any the tabs are not broken), do not use the LOAD terminals to reproduce that.
Having said that, it's not that hard to eliminate the need for many GFCI outlets. Start with an outlet in a room. With the power off, remove it from the wall and disconnect all of the wires (make sure you note how they were connected if the colors are not obvious) and cover them with wire nuts. Turn the power back on and see which outlets are now dead: these are all downstream and can be replaced with normal 3-prong outlets, labeled "GFCI protected/no ground". After idntifying the incoming wires (with a voltmeter or non-contact tester), turn the power back off and replace the outlet you pulled with a GFCI outlet. Make sure to connect the incoming wires to LINE and outgoing to LOAD.
Now try another outlet, if it turns out that a new GFCI outlet is downstream, either make that an isolated GFCI or go back and replace the downstream GFCI with a normal 3-prong (labeled).
Don't forget to label all GFCI outlets "no ground".
One warning: if you try to use an outlet tester with a GFCI trip button to test your wiring, such as

be aware that this will not work without a ground. You can get around this by using a long wire with one end connected to a ground (a water faucet my work) and the other end connected to the tab on a 2-3 prong outlet converter

and plug the tester into that.


Sharing a 240v 30A circuit using a dial switch

You can't use that switch, but you don't need it.

You can't use it because it's not UL listed.  The shady supplier admits this rather cleverly, saying the switch is CE (China Export lol), but the enclosure is UL listed.  rolls eyes Getting a UL listed BOX doesn't make the switch OK.

But it turns out there's nothing wrong with simply installing two receptacles on a 240V/30A circuit.  Well, that was easy!

Just don't run the dryer and sauna at the same time.  Done!

Oh wait, two little glitches.

First, the sauna needs GFCI protection.  Second, I bet you have the obsolete and dangerous 3-prong dryer connection, and those aren't allowed at all anymore, because they can kill you (whether the sauna or dryer is plugged in - worse for the sauna!)

And I bet you don't want to pull a retrofit ground or a new cable from the panel, or else you wouldn't be here.

Fortunately, we can kill 2 birds with one stone.

There's a rule that says you can install a grounded receptacle, even if it isn't grounded, as long as it's behind a GFCI device of some kind.  So that's what we do.

We install a 30A, 2-pole GFCI breaker back at the panel.  And then,
We install TWO (count 'em, two) of the modern, new-fangled NEMA 14-30 receptacles.
And we label both receptacles "GFCI Protected. No Equipment Ground".

Oh yes, and we change the dryer cord to NEMA 14-30, and very important here, follow the procedure to separate ground from neutral at the dryer. Otherwise the dryer can still kill you.
And we change the sauna cord to NEMA 14-30.  Now if it has a ground wire, we put that on the ground pin of the NEMA 14-30.  That's very important too. If you left the ground pin on neutral, the sauna could still kill you (as it can now).

Just like that we're sittin' pretty.  Legal as the day is long.

The second socket can be anywhere, but there's no way to get rid of it altogether. As soon as you hardwire the sauna, it becomes a hardwired load that is >50% of total circuit load, and receptacles are not allowed at all, so that knocks the dryer off.


Big mistake... maybe

The bare wires are easy -- those are always Safety Ground.

In residential wiring, the information on how to make connections is provided by position.  That is to say, how to connect them is told by how they were connected before.  Get it? By unhooking all the wires at once, you destroy that information.

Now, there's only two reasons to do that; either your husband is deranged, or he reasonably saw that the wiring arrangement was perfectly simple and straightforward, and easy to remember.  (These are called "switch loops").

I'm noting that the cable sheath was kept on the wires very far into the box, and not split into individual wires until 3" from the end. That is very much in favor of the "Simple, legal, easy-to-remember" theory.

  However, it's worth mentioning that the "simple, legal, easy to remember" arrangement cannot possibly affect lights, switches or outlets anywhere else in the building - only the controlled light/fan. So if that is happening, then we have a huge, stinky mess on our hands: this wiring job was already shoddy and dangerous before your husband ever touched it, and a DIY fix is out of the question.  You will need to either hire it done (sorry), or disclose the defect and let the buyer fix it. I recommend the latter, because that lets the buyer choose different fixtures etc. while they are in there doing the work.

Assuming the legal/simple way

So, proceeding on the assumption that the legal way is the way it was done, and that you are using plain switches, not these "smart switches"...

Each cable gets handled one at a time.   For that cable, the bare goes to the switch's green Safety Ground screw.   There are two screws remaining.  Put black and white there.  Which one goes where, does not matter.

For the ground screw, you must shape the wire into a shepherd's hook that will go around the screw shaft (under the head) at least 180 degrees, and it's good workmanship to crimp it so it goes around even more (and won't fall off).  It's probably that way already.  Put it on clockwise, so when you tighten the screw, it tightens the hook.

For the other two wires, if they are straight, use the "backstab" back-wire holes: there will be a little graphic illustration on the outlet that will tell you exactly how long to strip the insulation.  Do it just like that, and then, shove it in the hole all the way until bare wire can no longer be seen.  (On better switches, you must tighten down the screws to get the wire to hold.  Tighten them quite firmly. But please don't use that type!)

You could also attach to the side screws using shepherd's hooks similar to the ground wire, and that's better if done properly.  Honestly, given your level of skill, I want you to use the backstabs because if you cut the insulation the right length and push them all the way in, they're impossible to screw up.  Otherwise you need a torque screwdriver to set the screw torques right (usually, people set them too loose.)

The regulars here will object: yes, we generally think of backstabs as universally bad, because they go "open" for no reason, and that is a huge nuisance.  However, here, they are selling the house. The nuisance won't be theirs, so it's much more important that the work be the safest possible given OP's skill level.  Besides, these are switch loops; nothing will be affected by an "open" except the lamp itself.


This family of lights uses all 120v wiring which means the full weight of NEC applies.  You cannot "freestyle" splices in the manner you are talking, you must use listed products, which those cheapie butt splices probably won't be.  They do exist, but O'Reilly Auto doesn't sell them and they don't use $5 crimp tools either.

So here's how you handle "the cord is too short".   Legally, splices can only be inside junction boxes.  The American gold standard way to splice inside a junction box is with "wire nuts" - for two 18ga. wires I would use the blue or gray ones.  Do not use stabs, they are not rated for 18ga.

If GE sells a listed method to attach their special connectors to your lamp cord, go for it.  Otherwise you can only use it between junction boxes, which means 2 junction boxes.  If you want to do it in one junction box, then buy 2 cords long enough to give you 8" slack inside the box, and splice there.

But I have to say: why on earth are you using this family of products? Don't get me wrong, GE's quality is first rate, but why wrestle with 120v products when you can get the same thing in 12v that's much easier to work with.

Also, these prices are way beyond insane, at least 3-4 times what I've seen in quality 12v products.  IKEA has a broad selection of 12v products at sensible prices.  12v makes the products cheaper because they do not need expensive voltage converters in each lamp.    I buy cheap Chinese LED strips for $7 for a 16 foot roll, I mention that only to shake you out of a notion that $60/foot is a normal price for these things.


Is there something like a screw-on screw clamp on a hinge?

I think you'll have to make something, but it shouldn't be hard.
 A spreader clamp will do  much of the job.  Many of these have aluminium jaws, which are easy to drill and if necessary tap.  A hinge could then be screwed to the board and to the jaw.


Using the cold water shutoff valve to reduce the flow of cold will not cause any other issues or wear it out.  You most likely have a sediment blockage in the hot water shutoff valve or in the shower valve.
Since you do not own the place, it is most likely the owner responsibility to have the shutoff valve repaired or the cartridge in the shower valve repaired.


Why are my water/radiator pipes whistling when I shut down the heating system?

You might have air in the pipework to the radiators. You can bleed air from the system's heating circuit (usually a bleed valve is present at the highest point in the pipework)

and from individual radiators.

Details vary depending on which side of the planet you are standing.


How to re-insulate space between window trim and wall?

In the case of the fibreglass, it likely looks shrunken because of the way the batting was pressed into the shim space (gap between the window and wall frame) when the window was installed. As far as insulating the window goes, you can choose to remove the batting and replace it with batting that has a better R-rating (i.e. Roxul) or fill the void with low expansion spray foam insulation (i.e. Tremco Exoair L.E.F., or Nuco PF-100) (based on methods of install provided by my window company's Install team). Combining the two would be redundant as the batt can displace the expansion area of the foam and vice versa. Either option can work well on its own.


Why do the speeds of two ceiling fans vary on all speed settings?

Motors don’t always spin at the same speed even if the same brand, model and horse power.  They may have different speeds. I support a 1200 horse wood chipper with 3ea 400 horse motors. To get this monster to run and have the system balanced the motors need to be running at the same speed. we had to add variable frequency drives and match the full load speeds and current draws, so in short It could be the motor or the speed controller is not calibrated the same on both motors but fans usually have multiple windings for speed control and they can and usually are slightly different I see +- 50 rpm difference on motors rated at or around 1750 RPM. The one exception would be synchronous motors these are usually dead on and tied to line frequency.


Should I use silicone caulk on the side of a deck ledger?

You are always going to get some water behind the vinyl siding that is what the housewrap is for.  You can caulk the sides if you want too but its not necessary. Water that makes it to the inside of the j channel will also get behind the siding.


Not sure why this would not work, so I'm just going to give a little background about how these 'boosters' work so you can decide for yourself.

As you shower or bathe, you open a faucet to mix hot water from the tank with cold water from the city, producing a comfortable mixture. The hotter the tank set point, the less hot water you need to draw to produce a comfortable mixture and the longer you can shower.

The tank temperature has nothing to do with this component. Even without this component, you can "boost" the amount of hot water in your house by increasing the temperature of the tank.

There are however major risks to increasing the tank temperature. Notice that it takes only 2 seconds of exposure to 60C water to produce the same amount of burn as 1 minute of exposure of 50C water.

For this reason, it is really unsafe to simply boost your hot water temperature. A baby (yours or someone else's) may come in and turn on your hot water tap. Or drunken you may do the same. This may lead to serious injuries. It is therefore against code to have high-temperature water flowing out of a tap.

The way this component (a mixing valve) "boosts" water is that it allows you to keep the tank at a high temperature but it ensures that the water coming out of the tank (and into your faucet) is mixed with cold water automatically shortly after it leaves the tank.

This "booster" is a safety feature that allows you to meet code requirements and stay safe.


What kind of flooring for crawl space that is easy to move on?

For temporary storage of items on a concrete floor in a crawl space, I'd suggest some cedar planks. After building our fence with cedar pickets, we have stacks of 18-24" cedar pickets, and use them any time we need to store items, particularly items that may be susceptible to water damage, on our garage floor.
A single 6' picket could be cut into 3 24" lengths. The lengths could be used individually for smaller items, or they could be ganged together to make a wider platform. IIRC, the pickets were 5-1/2" wide, so two widths would be 11", three would be 16-1/2" wide.
Use a piece of cheap 1x2 at each end to hold the pickets together into a "pallet". This will keep the pieces together and make a handle that will keep the boxes on from being pushed off, as well as being a good handle to pull with.

They're thin at only about 1/2", so they won't take up much of your limited height.
They're naturally rot resistant, so if water seeps through the concrete or you get some minor flooding, they'll still last a long time, and they'll protect the cardboard boxen on top.
They are a bit grippy and may not slide quite as easily as desired, but, with the handle they should push or pull reasonably well.


Looking for advice on this refinishing project

You can probably sand these spots a little more but by hand.

It looks like an oak veneer so deep darn veins are desirable even if a bit of old stain remains. The picture with the 3 test stain splotches looks pretty good to me.


I'd try Teflon plumbers tape. It will maintain the shape of the threads as it increases the diameter of the male threads, and will still let you disassemble the unit at need.


Confusion while diagnosing an open ground

The funny voltages you are seeing are due to the lamps in the 3-lamp tester. There is a hot-ground lamp (yellow) and a neutral-ground lamp.  They are in a 3-way tug of war with the voltmeter.  So wacky numbers like that are not unusual.  But it means the ground wire is floating (not attached to anything) so it is easily influenced by whatever it's attached to.

When you removed the socket, you no longer needed the 3-lamp tester so the voltmeter won the tug of war, pulling the floating ground to whatever voltage you were testing to.

The ground wire is simply not working.  This would be of serious concern if the circuit was not GFCI protected.  But it is.  So, shrug, there you go.


I doubt the person that wrote the instructions knew the differences between hot dipped and electrogalvanized and so was not expecting a significant difference. Zinc coatings provide limited protection for mild corrosion. For a small job any stainless would be a big improvement for little cost. However; hot dipped tends to be thicker but not as ductile because of brittle iron/zinc intermetallics. I worked in corrosion protection and do not recall either process being required for an application other than bolting where electro-galvanized was was preferred to keep threads profiles free of buildup .


Bringing unused chimney down below roof line?

For what it''s worth, I did exactly this as part of the process of replacing my shingles (which were nearing end-of-life). That had the advantage of letting the roofers completely open the patient, remove the top courses until it was safely below roof level, install a nice strong patch over the hole (in fact they were putting plywood over the old king-pine boards anyway, so this was almost automatic), then shingle right across where the chimney had been.

At some point I'll take a hammer to what's left and recover the space the chimney occupies. I know the ground-floor main beam no longer rests on the chimney (that had crumbled and later been fixed with columns); we'll have to see whether it supports anything higher up. Hope not...

(This wasn't a gut rehab, so there really wasn't much advantage to removing the whole thing in one swell foop.)


How do I detect and repair faulty wiring?

Use your non contact tester, and start tracing the circuit back to the panel.  Check each device along the way, and keep a close eye out for GFCI receptacles that have been tripped.

You may want to pick up a multimeter, and test for voltage at the switch, and at the fixture. Water could have entered the fixture housing, and fried the motion sensor. So make sure you check the wires feeding the fixture.

If you don't feel comfortable working on live lines, call in a licensed electrician to have a look.


How to replace a razor only outlet with a gfci

Disconnect to two black wires that go to the back of the outlet and add a white wire and a black where there instead, matching the colors of the existing wires. Connect these new wires to the back of the GFCI at the line terminals.

to make this work you're probably going to need a new cover on that electrical box too, some sort of flat mud ring.

Get some white glue and dilute it 50% with water and use that to stick the torn paper back down.


I encountered this in my first property, which due to the age of the building would have cracks in many walls and ceilings.

In my experience paint does not do the job.  Perhaps if you slapped a lot of thick, gloss on top of them you could "fill" them, but I don't believe standard interior matte paint will reduce visibility of the crack.

In an ideal world, you would tape over them and use some sort of jointing/finishing compound to cover the area approx 5cm either side of the crack along it's length.  A bit of sanding and paint and you're sorted.

However, with your ceiling this is either going to be impossible, or look very obvious after the fact.

Advice you don't want, but will definitely fix it: re-plaster the whole ceiling

Cheaper, but might not work: run some caulk (with the smallest nozzle possible) down the crack and smooth in with your finger.  Wipe away the excess and let it dry.  Paint over.  It may not be perfect, but it has the potential to work in the long-term as the caulking is more flexible and will allow for a little movement.


How to (safely) retract and lower a 40' extension ladder?

Your ladder should have a rope and pulley mechanism for extension and retraction. Make sure you understand how it operates to prevent finger injury. Normally it's simply a matter of pulling down on the front rope to raise the ladder. To retract, lift the ladder a few inches using the rope, which allows the retention brackets to release, and lower the ladder extension with the rope.

Walking the bottom out to lay the ladder down isn't a good option. It puts huge torque on the person holding the upper portion of the ladder and risks damage to the building.

A single fairly strong person can safely stand and lower a ladder by simply placing the ladder base against the wall our foundation and walking it up from underneath, or by backing away.

Watch a firefighter do it.


What happens if I seal my driveway on a cool day and then it rains?

From Blackjack 500 technical manual:

  Temperatures must be 65°F and rising, but below 90°F during application. Clean driveway with
  Drive Kleen and thoroughly rinse. Remove puddles and then apply sealer to a slightly damp surface
  (not wet). A small amount of water separation in the pail is normal, and should be easily
  mixed in. Pour out 1/3 of the container and spread product across the blacktop surface with a
  squeegee. Squeegee must be used to spread product and for proper application rates. After
  application with squeegee, a follow up with a brush may be used if a textured surface is desired.
  Complete the entire driveway in one continuous application to prevent “color shading”. If multiple
  pails are used, it is best to match batch codes and blend the end of one pail into the beginning of
  the other to maintain consistent coloring and texture. Do not over apply as this may lead to track- ing. Do not apply if rain or cold temperatures are expected within 36 hours

As implied by @Daniel Griscom, you really ought to read and follow the directions on the product container


How to construct safe safer waterfalls for baby fish?

set the net back from the mouth of the waterfall in an area where the water is deeper and thus the current is weaker.  be prepared to clean the net frequently.


This is a condensed version for a wall installation, but it should help a bit (I hope). The door should be centered in the width of the hallway. To do that you will need to build-out a wall to accommodate a 36 x 80 inch door. This is typically done with 2 x 4 inch stock. If it is pre-hung plan on a rough opening 1.5 inches wider and 2 inches higher than the door dimensions. Start by cutting 2 pieces of 2 x 4 to 47 inches. This is the bottom and top  plates. You will need to build out the side walls by about 5.5 inches on each side for the R.O width. Cut the studs closest to and on either side of the door to 81.5 inches for the R.O height. Cut a header to span the distance of the R.O plus 3 inches. Install header on top of the 81.5 inch (jack or cripple) studs.


What device allows me to recover a hot wire from two travellers coming from a 3-way switch?

This can be done with a relay. Some people would delight in a technical solution, while others would not want a non-standard lashup in their house.

Here is one way, using a mains-voltage SPDT relay that is a common industrial catalog item.

The activating coil is connected between one of the travelers and the neutral. The normally-open terminal is connected to that same traveler, while the normally-closed terminal is connected to the other traveler. The always-hot may then be drawn from the relay common terminal.

Unfortunately this kind of relay wastes a small amount of power (the holding current) when one of the travelers is hot.

Added in response to comments: A bistable relay does not require a holding current. These are harder to find, and probably will not fit into a residential junction box. If you can find one, you will probably also find instructions for wiring it for your application.

But just in case you find one at a garage sale and the instructions are missing, here is a way to use a bistable DPDT to do what you want.


What is the correct use for linseed oil on outdoor wood?

I have always used boiled linseed oil on the handle of my garden equipment. Wooden shovels, rakes, pickaxes, and such. That's what I thought it was for. It lasts a long time and doesn't get slick or gummy. I just get a rag wet with it and wipe it on. It should look great on some outside furniture.


one device would be to use a multimeter. They have something called a continuity tester, whereby you take the two leads. the one end gets pressed against the one end of the wire, and the other end goes to the other end. if there is a connection, then the multimeter will either show on screen of buzz. ... the real problem is to run a temp wire all the way from  the one end of your wall switch to the other end being tested. (that is just to effectively extend the length of your test leads of the multimeter.


Corrosion of ceiling fan bodies & fan blades

The best thing to do is purchase the correct fan for the environment that it is going to be installed in. Fans that are made for the outdoor/wet/hot weather are going to cost more, but they are made for that type of environment, and they should come with a warranty.

As for adding a protective coating to an existing fan, the only thing that I can think of would be to powder coat it, but that is going to cost you. If it can even be done, the shop would have to disassemble everything, powder coat, reassemble, test (hope that the blades are balanced) and even then that does not mean that the interior motor/wiring will not go bad do to the weather conditions.

If it where me I would get a new fan for the environment.


My guess about these planks are that a builder made outer walls (that are carrying the loads) first, as well as interior support walls (if any present) and then laid a wooden floor. Just then, he(she?) managed to place internal walls that were not for supportive matters (dividing into rooms) on this floor. Years passed, loads made under-wall-planks to go deeper, while floor lasted on the same level. (all that I said was assuming that builder knew better; I'm afraid that past-technologies and construction commons were less sophisticated)

No matter what was the reason, it will be nice to do something about that. Leaving this as it is may or may not cause any problems in a near future, but making a reconstruction with that good access is tempting to solve this now.
Aloysius Defenestrate put an advice in his comment about wood consolidation epoxies. It may work, though I would hesitate to use it if the plank can be accessed to water/is totally rotten. Still, given a proper support from epoxy producer, it can be worthwhile.
Another way of 'replacing' that plank (or what is left of it) is putting concrete instead of it. It is something done in monuments or to make a less-harming change within older buildings' structure. You can replace the plank with concrete partially, say - by 20cm of plank per 1m of a wall. The wall will lose some of it's support (for a short time), but I guess it will handle that at ease. After some 1-2 weeks make another 20cm replace and so on. It's best if done by a specialist and I would advise consulting these distances (20cm replace per 1m of a wall), but I think that it will make this repair more solid.


What could cause this rhythmic clicking/drumming sound in my bathroom sink pipe?

Most bathroom sinks have a pop-up stopper, which works well for stopping the drain when you want. Unfortunately, it's also great at collecting hair and other debris that goes down the drain.

These stoppers should be removed and cleaned from time to time, to make sure the drain is flowing properly.
Clean the Stopper
Cleaning the stopper is the first step in troubleshooting a slow drain. There are many types of sinks, drains, and stoppers.  I will cover cleaning one of the more common stoppers.
Removing the stopper
If you look under the sink, you'll notice a pipe coming out the bottom. On the back side of this pipe, you'll notice a rod sticking out.  Where the rod enters the pipe, there should be a nut.  If you remove the nut, you'll be able to slide the rod out.  Once the rod is removed, you'll be able to pull the stopper up and out of the drain.
Clean the gunk
Once the stopper is removed, clean and rinse it.  DO NOT rinse the stopper in the sink you removed it from.
Install the stopper.
Place the clean stopper back in the drain, and align it so that the rod will fit in to the hole at the bottom of the stopper. Go back under the sink, and reinsert the rod. Actuate the rod, to ensure the rod is properly inserted into the stopper (the rod should move the stopper up and down). Tighten the nut back down. Actuate the stopper a few times, to make sure the nut is not too tight or too loose.  If it's too tight the stopper will not move, or will be difficult to move. If it's too lose the stopper may not stay in the full raised position.
Clean the Trap
The next step in troubleshooting a slow drain, is to clean the trap. Again drains may vary, I'll only be covering a trap with hand-tightened compression fittings.
Remove the trap
Since there will be water in the trap, you'll want to have a bucket under the trap before disassembling it. While holding the trap in place, remove the compression fittings at both ends.

Once the trap is free, carefully pull it free from the other pipes and dump it in the bucket.
Clean the trap
Clean the trap using paper towels and hot water.
Install the trap
Once the trap is clean, installation is the opposite of removal.

If after you've cleaned the stopper and trap, you don't notice an improvement in the drainage, or you're still having trouble. It might be time to contact a plumber, and have the line snaked out.


Instead of tile, consider 9/16"-ish thin brick veneer, which looks good in combination with concrete block.  Something like this:

You could put a wire lath over the blocks, and then just use mortar to adhere the brick to the lath/blocks.

Another option would to be run a 1x8 cedar "trim" board to cover the horizontal concrete blocks.  This would look really good once you clean up the dogears above.  For this you could use tapcons, to attach the board to the block.  Even better might be to run a pressure treated "sill" on top of the block.   That would add 1.5" to the trim board though so you then could nail a 1x10 to the pressure treated sill.  Ideally the sill would be sloped away from the dog ears, so that it would shed water away from them.


How do I remove scratches from bluestone steps?

My apologies to Fresh Codemonger, mineral oil will darken the steps and will leach back out over time showing the scratches from clearing the snow.
Use Muriatic acid to etch a new surface. I have had some success in removing most of the scratches in other slabs.
You will need to dilute it, apply it with a stiff bristle brush, use gloves and eye protection. It can be bad stuff, if handled improperly. Depending on the strength of the acid, I dilute 1 cup with about 2 gallons of water. I only suggest this as an example for dilution.  As a caution, too strong of solution will yellow the stone or anything it gets on, besides burn real bad if it gets on your skin.
It will also need to be rinsed thoroughly.
Here is a online document for etching concrete, which is the same process as etching stone, just that there is not painting going on afterward.
Another way to do it by "flaming" the surface with an acetylene torch after wetting the surface. This is the way the edges were finished on our treads after a saw cut the slabs to size. I am certain the top surface was flamed as well since your tread surfaces are not natural cleft.
If you do choose to do it this way you will need a face shield since the steam created by the flaming sends burning hot flakes of stone popping in the air at high speeds.
Here is a video on it here
The masonry cement will need to be protected from the extreme heat of the torch, it will cause the mortar in the risers to really blow out. that would NOT be good


The breaker didn't trip because it didn't need to.  A bad connection failed first.

Either in that junction box, or in the junction box before (next closer to the breaker box), you're going to find a scorched and arced wire on a screw or (far more likely) in a backstab.  This is why we don't like backstabs.

Arc fault breakers will protect you from fires starting from arcing backstabs.


Why would a replacement 3-way light switch cause the other switch to no longer work?

According to the instructions found here, you'll have to replace the other switch with a Retractive Press Switch when using a dimmer.

  Important notes - for two way and multi - way installation

  Read General Installation Safety Instructions before starting work.
  Any existing 2 Way or Intermediate switches MUST be replaced with Retractive Press Switches.
  Any number of Retractive Press Switches may be installed provided total cable length does not exceed 50m.
  Either 1 Way normally open or 2 Way Retractive Push Switches may be used.
  If 2 Way retractive switches are used, connect to Common (COM) and normally open L1 (1 WAY) terminals as shown. Do NOT use the L2
  (2 WAY) terminal.
  If replacing an existing 2 Way switch,cut back and insulate the unused 2 way wire previously connected to the L2 (2 way) terminal.
  All Metal Wall Boxes and Metal Plate Switches must be earthed.
  Do NOT connect more than 1 Dimmer in the same circuit,
  Remove label covering centre terminal on rear of dimmer. This terminal is to be connected to Retractive Switch as shown in wiring
  diagram. Do NOT connect any other conductor to this terminal.

However, there does not appear to be a requirement to replace the regular 3-way switch if a dimmer is not being used.

You might want to telephone the manufacturer to confirm this.

Here is a wiring diagram provided from the above link for non-dimming multiple switches


I was unable to find any parts for this so I ended up replacing the threshold entirely with something like this.


Need tips on running 230 in detached garage

I would not hesitate to run EMT conduit the whole way, and for a very good reason: Alterability given that the wood shop is a finished space.

You're in a wood shop.  You have things arranged the way you'd like now, but you may decide later you'd like to rearrange, or add something else.  Add a circuit? Pop the covers off, pull 2 wires, punch em down, badabing.

And I like EMT conduit because over on the unfinished side, it provides physical protection without question.  Sched 40 PVC is limited in its ability to provide physical protection.

Also, if you're drilling holes through joists to accommodate the wire or conduit, EMT lets you get the most through the smallest hole - up to 4 circuits in a 1/2" EMT pipe.  With wood shop tools that even allows a couple of 30A/#10 tools.

I think 12 AWG is a good idea. I own 11 colors of stranded 12 AWG (just found blue-red at the Habitat for Humanity store) and none of 14 AWG. I need the colors for circuit disambiguation, much much much more than I need to save small coin on my few circuits that can be 15A.

There is one circumstance where you can put #14 on a 20A breaker (or #12 on a 30A) - but this is not a case of undersizing wire (you'd never do that). For certain motors, you are allowed to use the correct and proper size of wire for the motor, then up the breaker to avoid startup trips. To qualify for this, certain motor calculations are required.


HDMI Connection flickers when ceiling Fan is switched on/speed increased

Although some may suggest a better cable it may be the amount of electronic noise from your speed controller, electronic speed controls create electronic noise in the form of harmonics, an external torid on the outside of the longer cable may dampen the noise picked up on the longer cable a ferrite washer shaped disk with the cable running thru it possibly with a extra pass through may do the trick on your existing cable. The next option might be placing a faraday cage over the controller this cage dampens the em noise signal much like a toride or ferrite core. If you have multiple phases or a split phase system moving the TV & computer to a different leg of the system may also resolve the problem. I have experienced many kinds of electrical noise in my career some times even a better (longer and multiple ) grounding rods have helped but more often EMI filters prior to the power supplies have done the most good (emi filters are usually simple capacitive / inductive filters that dump non 50/60hz signals to ground).


Tap the bundle of yellow wires connected to the transformer

If you'll look at the wiring diagram for your system, you'll notice that your R terminal is connected via a red wire to the transformer via an inline fuse, and the other secondary terminal has yellow wires connected to it, as well as a green ground wire.  Furthermore, there is a crimped splice of several yellow wires hanging below the transformer in your photo -- cutting that splice off, stripping the ends, and splicing a jumper to it using a wirenut (I'd use 14AWG yellow stranded THHN for this, it's cheap and easy enough to get) will let you bring that common wire out via a jumper to where it needs to be.


What type of plastic is best for outdoor usage?

Corrugated roofing panels, either clear polycarbonate or fiberglass skylight panels, should do the job. I'd put more trust in the light/weather resistance of fiberglass than polycarbonate, but both are readily available.


How can I completely remove all traces of mastic from old concrete?

I had an entry way floor some 30 years ago that had old hard vinyl tile glued down in it with the blackish-brown type of adhesive. I wanted to replace that tile with a ceramic floor tile so I peeled out all of the old tile. I then used a wide razor scraper to get most of the old adhesive scraped off.

After that I purchased a few gallons of aggressive paint stripper, opened every window in the house, shut off all gas appliances and pilot lights and poured out a layer of the stripper across the whole floor.

I let it sit for a suitable time (may have been about a half hour or so). Then working some with a wire brush and metal dust pan as a scoop I took up all the goop off the floor.

Finally using a bucket and a large sponge I washed up the whole area with a copious amount of hot water to remove all the stripper residue.

After the floor fully dried the surface was the nicest clean concrete surface you could wish for. I was able to put down the tile setting cement and had no problems with it adhering to the concrete.


Bizarre electrical set-up for bathroom light fixture

This is a common hack for ungrounded outlets.  Sometimes you see just loose wires, sometimes like this someone will use a new cable.  The worse I've seen is someone stringing lamp cord around to use as an add on ground.  The lack of a junction box is another issue.

For safety this should be replaced by a professional.  A new grounded cable should be run from the main service panel and a GFCI protected outlet to replace the outlet on the light.  The cloth wiring does not get better with age.


White neutral wire wirenutted to black hot

It's White, not Neutral, and it's probably (almost certainly, really) a switch loop. (So it's Hot.)
Per current code it should be remarked with red (my preference) or black or any other "hot color" at the ends, but it's common to encounter switch loops that were not so marked, either from before the code change or from workers who ignored the code change.
Additional pictures confirm it's a switch loop. Save some future pain and pull/twist/poke a pin in the holes of that switch to remove the wires from the "backstab holes" that go bad, and put them on the side screws that don't go bad.
Cut a short piece of white wire and connect it to the two white wires (that are Neutral) on the one screw of the lamp fixture with a wirenut or other suitable connector, and connect the free end of it to the screw on the fixture - it is indeed incorrect for that type of screw to have more than one wire. If you are planning to add an outlet, go ahead and add the neutral from that outlet to the bundle.
Since this appears to be an open/accessible garage situation, one option you might want to consider would be to go ahead and replace the 14/2 to the switch with a 14/3, thus bringing that switch box up to current code. You are not required to upgrade "grandfathered" work that was acceptable when installed unless making major revisions, but if it's easy to do, you might at least consider doing that. You could re-use the 14/2 for your new outlet.


How can an outlet with only 2 wires (hot and neutral) be grounded?

The conduit is the grounding path

Note that the wiring in your case is run not using sheathed cables, but as individual wires inside a metallic conduit (aka the pipe-like stuff you see heading off to the left in your picture).  As a result, the conduit is a serviceable grounding path in its own right, connecting the receptacle grounds and boxes to the grounded panel enclosure without any need to run an extra ground wire through it.


Vacuum Breaker Valve on Hose Bib Humming / Noise

Every time I left the outdoor spigots on (all have vacuum breakers), I would hear a whining sound when I turned on and off several inside water faucets.  This always let me know that I, or someone had left an outdoor spigot on.  But, it got kind of annoying after 10 years.  I had no idea it was related to having vacuum breakers on my outdoor spigots. Recently one the vacuum breakers started leaking when the water was turned on, so I tried to remove it.  It was rusted to the spigot, so I had to drill the screw out and remove it.  Spigot now doesn't leak and the humming sound is gone when I turn on my indoor faucets.  Amazing that simply removing the vacuum breaker brings such peace.  I have since removed all three vacuum breakers and life is so nice now.  Guess they are required when selling a home, but I don't plan on selling anytime soon.  Just won't be hooking up chemicals to a hose so I don't run the chance of contaminating the water supply, but otherwise a much enjoyed "fix".


One of the biggest things to the feel of a room is the floor temp--you mentioned that yours feels cold. A thermal padding and carpet will be the biggest bang for the buck in the feel or that is what I have found reducing the heat transfer from the floor that has no insulation to a minimum of carpet and a thermal pad has made my basements warm enough that the kids played on the floor. Prior to that they did not like the basement because it was cold even with a 72 deg air temp.

Heat vents being low sure that can help a little but the ducting probably services the main floor so moving them to the floor ends up costing more because you end up running new ducts from the trunk lines. The other thing I found that helped was IR heaters but they only heat a focused area but they work well for a seating area and a zone the kids usually play on the floor in.


What could be causing my lawn mower to surge?

Many lawnmowers use a plastic vane under the engine shroud that interacts with air moving off fins on the flywheel to work as a speed control mechanism to open and close the carburetor throttle valve in response to the engine speed changing because of loading changes. Lawnmowers often operate in very dusty environments and the linkages associated with the vane assembly can get all gummed up or even stuffed up with dirt. This can lead to the surging type behavior that you are seeing.

The fix for this is to carefully disassemble part of the engine covering and give the vane mechanism and its linkages a good cleaning and re-lube.

Surging can also be caused by dirt particles entering the innards of the carburetor. Virtually all carburetors are equipped with some type of air filter to keep dirt out but sometimes dirt can get in anyway - especially when removing a dirty filter for replacement/cleaning.

The typical fix for that is a complete carburetor removal, dis-assembly, cleaning and reassembly. It is also necessary to fully clean the area where the carburetor mounts and connects to the engine. Any dirt left there can easily find its way into a nicely cleaned unit and set you back to square one. Note that these small engine carburetors can have many small parts that are easily lost so it is necessary to work in a clean area where parts can be found if they try to get away. It is also possible to take a carburetor to a small engine repair shop for servicing if you are leeiry about tackling it yourself.


can an interior motion sensor be installed to an existing flourescent light fixture?

So you're looking for something like this?

It's an "Occupancy Sensor Wall Switch", which combines the functionality of an on/off pushbutton with a PIR motion sensor.
You would simply remove your existing switch and replace it with something like one of these.
When it senses movement it turns the lights on, and then after a pre-determined period of no activity it automatically turns them back off again.
You can also use the pushbutton to manually toggle the lights.


What type of wood should I purchase and how do I give it the shape I want?

Not seeing the chair I wood go with cedar,its a little more expensive than most but will outlast all others resistant to insects and beautifull wood.


Does an app exist to allow mobile control of Velux windows?

On the bottom of your linked page it talks about using your smartphone (http://www.velux.com/solutions/products-and-solutions/home-automation#io_homecontrol)


Flipping switch (by itself) trips breaker

What am I doing wrong here?

You have created a short circuit. When you close the switch, power flows with no load (other than the wires themselves) and the circuit breaker trips to prevent a fire.

You’ll need a double-pole switch (two “line” input connections and two “load” output connections to disconnect this 240V circuit.

Do not re-use the old switch elsewhere. It is likely damaged inside now.


Painting acoustic drywall with large perforations

Since the holes are deep and there are many of them, I wouldn't try to paint them. I'd use a thin-nap (1/4") or foam roller and just paint the surface of the wall. If you keep the roller fairly well wrung out you shouldn't see significant squeeze into the holes.

You might need to have a scrap of plywood or cardboard on hand to pre-roll, making the paint load more uniform and light. Also, it may take several light coats.

Oops. I was focusing on the dimples on the horizontal panels and didn't see that the ones on the wall in that photo are different.

Original answer:

I would use a foam brush and dab all the dimples first, then a thin-nap (1/4" or thinner--maybe a foam roller) to roll the entire wall. Apply several light coats so you aren't squeezing paint out into the dimples.

This would also be a good use case for a sprayer. Either a rented commercial sprayer or an inexpensive airless should do.


Since this is one piece of wood  screw two of these eyes to the back in strategic locations. Hang it on picture frame hooks


Can I have a 120 volt branch off a 120/240 volt circuit?

The NEC expressly permits 120v & 240v loads on  mwbc (multi-wire branch circuit) provided both legs are disconnected at the same time. This point is moot since the same is required for
 just a 240v circuit.


How to test to see if a wall is straight for laminate flooring installation?

One way to test a wall for straightness is to stretch a string from corner to corner. A good practice when doing this is to space the string out in the corners by the thickness of a board. Then the gap between the string and wall all along can be checked to see how even the wall is. The gap can even be checked with another piece of board that has the same thickness as that used in the corners.


How can I shorten a reciprocating saw blade?

I just save my broken blades for this.

Clamp it in a vise, where you want it to break off and hit it with a hammer very sharply. It should snap off (make sure the part you want to KEEP is in the vise).

If you have to work it back and forth a little, you can clean up the edges on a grinder.


How can I level my basement floor, which has a 4-inch dip?

You may want to google "concrete leveling" in your area.  There are companies that will come out and pump concrete under the floor to raise the level back to where it was.  This will likely be a better solution, and may prevent further settling in the future.

For your "bonus" question:  A cheap bottle jack with a 4x4 should be sufficient to lift the studs back into place.

A side note:
You may want to think about getting a structural engineer out to your place before you attempt to fix either of these problems.  The large amount of settling may be pointing towards a larger problem that you would be masking by just leveling it off.  The beam sagging is also alarming.  If there is too much load placed on that section of the floor, you may have other (and perhaps larger) structural issues that may or may not be readily apparent to you.  Also, the floor which will support the new beam may not be sufficient to handle the extra load from above.

It is likely worth the couple of hundred dollars to make sure your repairs will, in fact, fix the problem instead of just masking it or creating larger problems.


Linoleum can be a total bear to remove in and of itself. If the substrate is screwed or nailed down then it shouldn't be too bad but if it's glued to the sub-floor then you're gonna have a bad time.

If I had to guess then there might very well be hardwood flooring beneath the linoleum which may have been sanded down to accommodate the linoleum's thickness. If this is the case then ripping up hardwood flooring isn't too difficult unless it was glue down.

As you can see, without knowing what your substrate is, it is impossible to know how big of a challenge you have ahead of you. There could be several linoleum layers for all we know.

So:

Step #1: remove at least one piece of linoleum from an inconspicuous location such as a pantry or closet since you might decide F*** it after all

Step #2: take a picture of the substrate and edit it into your question

Step #3: you probably won't need someone here to tell you how difficult things are going to be as you'll have a general idea of what you are up against


Problem with GU10 LED bulbs tripping out power

The LEDs do not light up (ie conduct) for a brief time after switch on. During that time there is current in the Live wire but not in the Neutral. The rcd reacts to this imbalance  (residual current)  by breaking the circuit.
Neither the rcd nor the LED lighting system is faulty.


Breakfast bar. How should it have been done?

Depending on the materials, the top may be jointed to the side internally and it may be perfectly safe. If I were designing a breakfast bar, I certainly wouldn't wish to see brackets underneath but I'd find another way to fix the top securely.

You may be right; safety first especially if children are around. Why not simply lift the top hard and see if it moves? If in doubt, call a professional out.


Scrape off the painting of bathroom celling

Gyprock ? Is that a name for Sheetrock? If so moisture above could be a problem even if properly sealed and painted.

The year of construction would be helpful also. Green /blue board are forms of water resistant Sheetrock, as the lighting level is low I cannot tell but it may be green board from my best guess.

Many bathrooms that do not have proper ventilation have issues with ceiling paint even with the best preparation every type of wall board can have issues as the moisture if not exhausted can cause bubbling, mold and many other problems.


What determines an air conditioning compressor's location?

Usually it's not a big deal to move an AC compressor a bit. However, there are some common constraints to placement based on the mechanical performance of the system and local codes.

The compressor must have electrical power and control wiring. But wiring is easy, not typically a limiting factor.
You also need refrigerant lines. Manufacturers specify a limit on the distance and total height of these lines. You usually can't put a compressor many floors below the evaporator.
The compressor must be accessible for service. Modern codes usually require an electrical outlet nearby too.
The compressor must have adequate clearance from adjacent buildings, walls, decks, etc. to ensure good airflow.
You may be required to consider noise or setback requirements. Most towns don't want you to place a noisy compressor right on the edge of your neighbor's property.

I got to learn a bit about these rules when we had AC installed last year. My city electrical inspector required the compressor to be rotated in order to place the electrical access panel on a corner not adjacent to the house. (As far as I can tell this is ridiculous and uncommon even in our city.) The installer had to have both their refrigerant tech and electrician out again to rotate the unit. So it's a bit of a pain, but it's certainly doable and if the only reason they didn't put it in the place they previously agreed to is forgetfulness/laziness then you should demand they fix it.


New float valve in header tank with very slow leak

The high water pressure could very well be causing the slow leak. Float valves rely on the pressure of the float to close a small valve in the stem. High pressure could allow for a little water to work its way through. A quality fill valve should be able to handle it. The fluidmaster 400 ARHR is a great low cost fill valve. You could also try a commercial fill valve. They are built to higher standards.


How to repair wall next to external door?

From what I can see in those images, I wouldn't bother repairing that drywall until the new door is in. Sometimes hanging/fitting a door requires a lot of work to get it plumb, straight, and level, and that may cause you to damage what you just repaired.

Once the new door is installed, you can see how the wall will need to be repaired relative to the new jambs. 95% of the time you'd just cover something like that with the trim and be done with it- no mudding or sanding needed, and only repairing if you have a gap or crack beyond what the trim covers.


What types of home radon mitigation systems have you used, and how well do they work?

Start here:  EPA's guide on radon mitigation for home buyers.

We have a radon mitigation system in our house.  Our house failed the radon test during the home inspection, so we forced the sellers to have one installed.  The work was done by a local radon contractor, paid for by the seller for $975.  We also had another bid that was $1100.  (Those prices included an independent re-test of the radon levels after the system was installed.)

There are lots of Youtube videos of radon mitigation systems.  They are worth watching.  The videos were very informative for me when I was trying to understand all of this during the home buying process.

For our system, they cut a hole in the basement slab and sunk in a 4" PVC pipe.  The PVC pipe runs up into the garage.  It runs along the wall of the garage, and into the attic above the garage.  In the attic, there is a radon fan (model RP145).  From the fan, a short length of pipe extends up through the roof.  There is a rubber weather-proofing boot around the pipe on the roof.

Our system has a u-tube monitor attached to the PVC pipe in the basement.  It measures the suction, so you can see if the fan has quit working.  Looks like this.

The fan makes some noise.  You can hear it in the garage, but it's not that loud.  Everything I read about the model of fan we have says it is good, with a pretty long average lifespan.  (They do eventually break and have to be replaced.)

The one thing that sucks is that I now have a big 4" PVC pipe along the wall in the garage.  In hindsight, it might have been possible to rip up some drywall and run the pipe inside the wall.  (Not sure.)

The radon level was at 21.9 pCi/L during the home inspection.  The re-test showed it at 0.9 pCi/L.  Here is the EPA's guide on radon levels.

For a house with lower radon levels, they may use a "passive" system with no fan.  For higher radon levels, they may use a more powerful fan and a bigger pipe.

Depending on the construction of the house, the radon contractor may want to install the system on the outside of the house (pipe and fan mounted against a rear wall, running up to the roof).  While researching mitigation systems before buying the house, I learned that an outside fan installation considerably increases the failure rates of the fan motor.

When designing/installing a radon system, some thought goes into the angles of the PVC pipe to control the influx of rain water into the pipe.  The pipe also has to be routed through the house without destroying structural studs and joists.  The wiring for the radon fan also has to be up to code (e.g. use a junction box).  A competent radon contractor will do these things, but it doesn't hurt to ask questions.

The other thing a radon contractor may do is caulk and seal any cracks or gaps in your foundation.  Unused drain holes may be closed up.  The idea is to prevent any radon gas in the surrounding ground from seeping into your basement.

If you are concerned about radon in your house, there are some low cost radon home test kits.  You can buy them at home improvement stores.  They come with a charcoal canister, which you let sit in your basement for a while, then you send it to a lab for results.

We also looked at getting one of these units and installing it down in the basement.  It does continuous monitoring, and will beep at you if the levels get too high.  Never actually got around to ordering it.


How to remove copper pipe that is inside an exterior wall?

Interior is the side to cut in your case, and you will need to get into the wall to remove/replace the piping and hose bib. Simplest terms: you limit exposure to the elements/pests/etc. the greater the extent to which you leave the shell intact.
Cut an inspection hole in the wall to get an idea of the area you'll need to work with; cut the pipe out; sweat on new piping; install hose bib; patch and repair interior finishes.


Unless you are getting your electricity at a price that is cheaper than the natural gas used in the boiler, I see no need for the electric boiler. I am not familiar with this make of boiler so my writing is on how I feel the units should perform. In the instruction manual they mentioned an optional control that can modulate the gas input from 50% to 100% of the full input that would  or could make the boiler more efficient and save on operating cost. Since I am not physically there, to check the control wiring of the 2 units, I must assume that when the gas boiler is firing the electric boiler is shut down,  if they are wired that way. That being said there should be a device that keeps the pump running long enough to rid the boiler of excess heat. I am assuming that this unit is a coil boiler and those boilers usually  have a flow switch in the boiler's piping to insure water flow before the boiler is allowed to fire and a delay relay to insure that the excess heat is removed before the pump shuts down. You did not mention if this a new installation with a problem that you are observing or if is an older installation with a new problem. More information may be needed to properly give a proper answer. Hope this helps


Can i install condenser unit of split air conditioner in a rotated position?

Probably not. The problem is there is a compressor in there and that uses gravity to keep the oil in the compressor. Have you ever heard that you need to let a refrigerator stand upright after moving it if it was laid on its side or back. This is to allow the oil time to drain back to the compressor. And usually takes 4 hours to 24 hours.
 If the unit is placed on its side it it will fail in a very short period of time, I do not know of any models that can allow to be run other than 1 position.


Using 12-3 with ground to wire a new light

The circuit layout is sound.  A small point, I don't think you mean to actually use a pigtail (short additional jumper wire) in the junction box, just connect the light cable to the switch loop in the junction box.

It sounds like you're just going to have one junction box for all the lights and switches in the attic, rather than one per room.  That is OK as long as the junction box is large enough to house all the splices - you'd need to do the box fill calculations to determine.

Your description is kind of a star layout from a single junction box.  You more often see more of a daisy chain layout where the source power feeds the box for the first light for each room, and the switch loops for that room come from that box.  That will usually use less cable and avoids the big junction box.

The star layout may have advantages too, for maintenance, troubleshooting, future additions, etc., but only if it's a BIG box easy to work in, not a disastrous tangle of unlabeled splices.


I need to join my fence with my neighbor's; Can't use his post..how do I dig the hole for mine close to his?

I would (and have) set your post at least 2' from his. So it would end up looking like this

 -        -
| | -----| |-------------------
| | |    | |
| | |    | |
| | |    | |
|A| | B  |C|          D
| | |    | |
| | |    | |
| | |    | |
| | -----| |-------------------

A = neighbors post

B = your fence panel cantilevered beyond your post

C = your post

D = your gate/fence...

If you set your post too close to his, then both posts will end up being influenced by the other...as one leans/sinks it will more likely affect the footer of the post immediately next to it.


"Liquid Sand Paper" is a diluted form of the solvent used in gloss paints in the first place, Diethylene glycol monobutyl ether (DEG monobutyl ether). It also contains fine grains of silica (quartz) in suspension. It works by slightly dissolving the surface of the gloss paint and allowing the silica grains to embed themselves in it, which then allows the next layer of paint to adhere.

If you try to volatilize (spray) it, you would not only need high pressure to avoid having the silica clog things up, but it then becomes HIGHLY dangerous to inhale.

Don't try it, that's not what it was designed for.


In general, a broken handle on a shut-off valve is a STRONG indicator that the valve needs to be replaced - otherwise the original handle would not have broken. Replacing a handle on a valve that requires so much force to operate that the handle breaks is not good workmanship, and does not solve the problem of an inoperable shutoff.
If the one was bad (sounds like a fixture hot - cold pair, but you didn't say) it's commonly the case that the other one is as well.
So, you pay the plumber. You might ask questions, but you pay the plumber.
If you are upset about a fairly normal "you see this problem (a handle) the plumber sees that problem (a pair of valves that are failing or failed)" then be immediately available when the plumber is working to discuss changes in scope and why they are being changed. And be very clear that you want to discuss any changes in scope beforehand.
This time, you pay the plumber.


Splice to repair damaged 100A aluminum feeder

You'll need a pretty chunky box for those splices

Wires 4AWG and up can't be spliced in any old junction box as they're simply too stiff and fat to fit into junction-box-sized boxes.  Instead, you need to use what's called a pull box in the trade to house your splicing job, which invokes the box sizing rules in NEC 314.28(A), specifically (A)(2):

  (A) Minimum Size. For raceways containing conductors of
  4 AWG or larger that are required to be insulated, and for
  cables containing conductors of 4 AWG or larger, the minimum
  dimensions of pull or junction boxes installed in a raceway or
  cable run shall comply with 314.28(A)(1) through (A)(3).
  Where an enclosure dimension is to be calculated based on the
  diameter of entering raceways, the diameter shall be the metric
  designator (trade size) expressed in the units of measurement
  employed.

  (2) Angle or U Pulls, or Splices. Where splices or where angle
  or U pulls are made, the distance between each raceway entry
  inside the box or conduit body and the opposite wall of the
  box or conduit body shall not be less than six times the metric
  designator (trade size) of the largest raceway in a row. This
  distance shall be increased for additional entries by the amount
  of the sum of the diameters of all other raceway entries in the
  same row on the same wall of the box. Each row shall be calculated individually, and the single row that provides the maximum distance shall be used.

  Exception: Where a raceway or cable entry is in the wall of a box or
  conduit body opposite a removable cover, the distance from that wall to
  the cover shall be permitted to comply with the distance required for one
  wire per terminal in Table 312.6(A).

  The distance between raceway entries enclosing the same
  conductor shall not be less than six times the metric designator
  (trade size) of the larger raceway.

  When transposing cable size into raceway size in
  314.28(A)(1) and (A)(2), the minimum metric designator
  (trade size) raceway required for the number and size of
  conductors in the cable shall be used.

As a result of this, we come up with 477mm2 for a 1-1-1-3 aluminum SER cable at slightly under 1" diameter, which fits into a 1.5" conduit (it's slightly too large for a 1.25" conduit).  So, we'll need an 10" by 10" by 4", NEMA 1 (indoor rated), screw cover pull box (the Wiegmann SC101004 should do the trick), along with a matching flushmount cover (Wiegmann SCF1010), and cable entrance fittings that can work with such a large cable.  The Polaris connectors you have chosen will work fine for splicing, by the way: the only caveat with them is that you'll need to use an inch-pound torque wrench to tighten them to their specification torque for a reliable connection (this is required by 110.14(D) of the 2017 NEC).


How does a water mains booster pump work? Isn't the flow rate solely determined by what reaches the property in the first place?

The assumption is that there is a restriction in the pipe and higher pressure differential across that restriction will lead to more flow.
If the restriction is downstream from the pump (a semi clogged valve for example) the operation is obvious.
If the restriction is upstream then the pump will draw a partial vacuum between it and the restriction which will increase pressure difference across the restriction up to some limit.


There's nothing you can do to fix it short of tearing it out and starting over.  Any sanding or grinding you might try will be even more evident in the difference in finish and texture.

I doubt there is a significant difference in the thickness of the ledger panels.  But even if their is, that's part of the job of a tile setter - compensating for materials and substrate to get an even, clean, finished look.

I wouldn't be happy with it either.  But it will mean tearing out much of the
job to fix it.  Good luck.