I think it is in theory possible for a device like this to be designed and certified as a shaver socket in the UK.  I don't think having output voltage of 5V (or 9, etc) would disqualify it.  I do not however think this particular device has been designed or certified to "shaver socket" standards for use in a bathroom and I don't think such a thing exists.  You should probably install an actual shaver socket, and plug in a regular USB phone charger cube.
I'm generally not a fan of USB chargers wired into the wall because they quickly become incompatible with the charging needs of newer devices, eg QC2, PD, ETC.  A shaver socket and your device charger will give you safety, charging speed and functionality, and future compatibility.
EDIT: Most people can stop reading now.  Adding to my answer that "charging speed" and future compatibility are not unbounded.  A shaver socket may, by the standard, deliver at most 50W but a manufacturer may limit it to as little as 20W within the standard for shaver sockets.  A 20W shaver socket should easily feed a USB charger that comes with a shaver or toothbrush.    It will not however charge most new (in 2021) smartphones at their maximum speed.  A 50W shaver socket will charge any phone or tablet that I am aware of (in 2021) at its maximum speed, along with any other QC2 or QC3 device.  But QC4 and future standards require more than 50W and PD is already capable of 100W output (which will draw more from the AC source)  so don't expect to charge your 15" gaming laptop in the bathroom (as if you needed another reason not to leave your laptop in the bathroom).


What interior door will fit a rough opening of 47-3/4"?

I have a rough opening in my house that is the exact same size (47³/⁴ by 81¹/²) which is a very odd dimension, leading into a downstairs makeshift bedroom. A pretty small room but I still wanted to cover it up with some kind of door. I couldnt find a double door set that could fit in the given width and I didnt really want a barn door because I wanted a locking door knob with a key. After a few hours of looking around on the internet, I think I found a decent solution. (https://bit.ly/2wUdzM5) Two of these 22 by 80 doors will leave me with about 3³/⁴ wiggle room which I think will work out fine. Assuming everything will fit fine I hope this helps anyone with the same problem. I will update this if anything goes wrong but im sure this will work. I just ordered the doors and will try to remember and post pictures of the before and after.


It would be best to cut out the damaged section and replace it with a suitable gel-filled junction box (or two junction boxes and a new bit, if there isn't any slack).

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKSH506W.html
or
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SWJK1.html

may be suitable.

Your cable size is 3 x 6mm2 copper.


Dripping sound in wall after toilet fills

It could be pipe thermal expansion. Is it drip drip or more like tic tic? Tic is thermal expansion.


According to this table of a wire manufacturer 7
strands of 22 makes a 14 gauge wire which would carry 15 amps.

That a good estimate, but remember your wire wasn’t likely manufactured by the company who published the table.


My dishwasher is too short for the counter

Looks like you got about 3.5" to make up.  I'd put a couple of 2x4s front to back stacked flat and screwed down where the DW feet go.  My wife and I are both tall and when we built our house we decided on a 39" counter height, meaning we had to build up for the range and dishwashers. Worked fine. It also means not having to bend over the dishwasher as far to load and unload it, nice.
So IMHO shim/build up as needed under the DW, I think it would look odd to make up that much space above it.


What can I do about this painted concrete?

On the plus side, its a (seemingly) well adhered horrible color.  That means recoating it another color, will be a fruitful effort.

Buy the best coating you can afford. Horizontal, exterior surfaces receive the harshest  conditions.  An anti-slip additive will be money well spent.


If you use a filler and cover it immediately, will there be any problems?

Cement, concrete, plaster-of-paris, epoxy:
These two-part fillers set by an internal chemical reaction, not by contact with the air, so you can cover them immediately after placing them with no ill effects.
Paste, oil-based putty, white-glue and sawdust, "mud", no-gaps etc
These fillers set by a reaction with the air, or by evaporation
If you cover them curing time will be extended.


Can I remove a padlock tab in my breaker panel to allow fitment of an interlock device?

Technically, the National Electrical Code requires listed equipment to be used as it was manufactured without modification.

However, your inspector can approve a field modification if they deem it is necessary.


Hard to say without smelling it, but it's likely moisture (even if it's dry) or just poor air circulation.  First thing I would try would be putting a dehumidifier down there to see if that helps.


Your pictures are perfect, except you need a Beta before the "A" - which is just a header to go across joists or blocking.   This will give you the stability.
For extra stability you can add a parallel header (Zeta) at the top on the same line as "C" and block Beta and Zeta - don't need a lot of blocking.   That's it.
And because I want you to do it right... I need to know your location... as the cavity for the PVC is more useful in some locations than others.
Based on last picture:

Bottom of top section 2x4 down slightly to fully align with blocking.
Flip top plate so flat part attaches.
Add a parallel 2x4 to top plate against wall.
Add a few blocks between two top plates.

This is about as sturdy as you can get.


What's the best way to install a pet door in an exterior wall?

Looks like they do sell pet doors for that purpose. You can even pick the size.

As far as installing it, I think the last thing you want to do is center it on a stud.


Connect cold faucet to washing machine's hot inlet to test internal connectivity?

It won't damage the machine I have seen this done where the home owner only wants to use cold water. Having both connected keeps water in the hot solenoid and having 2 solenoids running the machine on warm it will fill faster but still be cold. Some machines will throw an error if there is no pressure so this solves several problems.


How can I ensure precise alignment of wooden parts assembled with bolts?

Specialty Bolts

Some bolts have long smooth shanks and short threaded sections.  If you are able to find appropriately sized bolts like these, and able to buy a drill bit that is the same diameter as the shank for a sung fit, then this is simplest, if not the best, solution.  The key is a smooth shank of appropriate length.  If the threaded section is too long, it can, of course, be cut off with a hack saw and groomed with a file.  To straighten out threads at the tip, spin a nut all the up to the shank and leave it on until finished with the grooming.

Joinery

The craftsman approach would be to use shouldered joints.  This is a link to the wikipedia page.

Pins

Solid Pins

assemble with bolts
choose a nail size (diameter) and similarly sized drill bit for a snug (but not too tight) fit.  The match between the nail and the holes needs to be snug enough for good alignment, but not so tight as to prevent the joint from being disassembled by hand and the nails tapped out if so desired.
cut nails to length if necessary
drill two or more holes through one member and into the second member
tap the nails into their holes
Note: see @bib's answer for a "blind" variant of this

Tube Pins

choose the bolts
choose metal tubing through which the bolts easily fit.   Note: as suggested by @AnonomousPerson in a comment, PVC tubing such as 1/2" plumbing can be used with good results for large bolts
in both members, drill through-holes in which the tubing fits snugly
cut lengths of tubing matching the members combined thicknesses
tap in a section of tubing
bolt together through the tubes

Splines

Blind Rings

select 1/16" walled metal tubing whose diameter that is somewhat smaller than the narrowest member. For example, if the narrowest member is 2" wide, then select some tubing that is about 1.5" in diameter.
select a hole saw that matches the size of the tubing
temporarily assemble the members using bolts that match the diameter of hole saw's drill bit, typically 1/4".
disassemble
on each of the mating surfaces, using the bolts holes for guides, use the hole saw to drill 1/4" deep circular recesses
cut 1/2" long rings from the tubing
assemble with the rings sandwiched in between
if larger bolts are desired, re-drill the bolt holes

Blind Flats

same idea as blind rings but use 1/2" x 1/16" metal stock and saw-kerfs


Is it acceptable to drill a hole in the cabinet 'floor' underneath the sink to put a dishwasher hose through?

Mine was run through the "floor" of the cabinet.  I haven't had any problems with it.


you may have to move the "bar" to a horizontal position. (cross ways)


When cutting wood do you add the width of the blade after the line mark?

A circular saw isn't a super precise cutting tool so you'll want to keep that in mind.  Lining the notch on the shoe is not going to give you super accurate cuts.  Its fine for framing but may not be for other tasks.

To me a cutting guide is the best way to improve your accuracy.  They are very cheap and easy to make, and they speed up your work quite a bit.

Here's a link to one of many how-to's:  making a cutting guide

If you make your marks on the waste side of the measurement, you can quickly and easily line up the guide to the edge of the mark, and get a pretty darn close to perfect cut quick and easy.


Is it possible to add a second switch to a light, without unearthing the wires to the existing switch

There are smart switches that can do this. The issue will be you have to purchase both quite expensive and they take full sized openings (larger box will be needed at the stairwell single gang box) I cannot remember if they made one without a neutral required but most balk at the price of ~70$ just for the electronic 3/4 way switch. master snd slave required or controller and remote for those offended by the first term. I believe the series is caseta  by lutron the current price 60$  Theee were others that did not require hubs same MFG that I have used.
You need to verify if a neutral is available or needed by the switch some require neutral some require ground to operate.


How can I locate the 2x8 boards beneath subfloor, backer board, mortar, and ceramic tile?

Assuming you do not have access from below, (if you do we have a completely different solution) you need to drill  holes in the perpendicular grout line apx 16 inches from the parallel wall to the joists to start with. You may have to drill a couple of holes until you find a joist. Then calculate every 16 inches on center and drive screws. When driving the screws, they should bite and countersink themselves if you have hit a joist.  Since you will have to re-grout the seam anyway, strip the grout and find the joists. Even doing this, I am not totally convinced a few screws will solve your problem. The best solution will be securing the subfloors from the bottom.


How can I seal between siding and sunroom to block bee access?

It's possibly "duct seal", a flexible and sticky material sold for plugging cable entrance holes. If so, you can add more over the top. You'd work it into a rope by rolling it between your hands, then press it in place.

It could also be some sort of tube caulk. Since it doesn't appear to be silicone you should be able to bond to it with either duct seal or caulk.

A better fix might be to scribe-fit a thin trim board to the siding. You'd do this by tracing the siding using a spacer, then cut to fit with a jigsaw or similar.


You have to be careful with window lubricants. If they are greasy/sticky, they will attract dust and dirt (and also get on your clothes).

They make graphite lubricants (generally for locks) that will not leave a greasy residue.   They also make "graphite paint" which is basically paint resin loaded with graphite instead of pigment and filler.

However in a window, the resistance is less likely to be from pivoting points and more likely to be from sliding points. Graphite paint is a good choice for those. The paint will powderize as the surfaces spall, and that dust can still stain clothes, but at least it isn't sticky.


A roughed-in stand up shower drain should be a 2" pipe sticking up out of the concrete with a pipe cap on it about 17" or so away from the wall or proposed future wall.

Ask the builder where they put it exactly. If they can't show you then they owe you some money to fix it.

Good luck!


How do we thaw pipes that froze after our boiler stopped working?

Its a slow process to identify where the pipe or pipes are frozen.

Turn on faucets and determine which ones work and do not. This will help to identify pipe paths that have an issue.
With each faucet providing insight, then begin to trace as best you can those plumbing lines.
The frozen section can have condensation around it, maybe ice or be bulged.  It may also not look any different then a non frozen pipe, which means you need to use the Force, and feel for the section that is frozen.

Some general areas to start would be exposed pipes near external walls, that are not used that much. Standing water freezes much easier then busy pipes.

When unfreezing a pipe if you worry you are heating it too fast you probably are.
De-thawing a pipe too fast can cause some very bad results.  So take it slow.

Turn on the faucet with the issue.
Start with a warm wet towel that you wrap around it.  Never use a blow torch or anything that can cause a dramatic change in temperature.  A hair dryer can work but go slow and do not set it on high and just point and hold.

Hear is to hoping the frozen section is in an exposed area you can gain access to.


Can someone explain this old switch wiring?

The looped through wire will be the live feed, and it continues on to power another circuit, probably the other switch.

Motion sensors usually require power of their own to function, and in newer installations there'd be a neutral available to provide that circuit - as there appears to be in your box. Check the instructions that came with the sensor as to the wiring but this looks like most of the dimmers and sensors, the green wire provides the circuit by connecting to the ground along with the bare wire. Not exactly per code, but that's how they've been sold for years.


Is there a way to adjust the bathtub handle tension?

The stem you speak of is actually connected to the internal cartridge. I believe it may have been over tightened when installed, or it was leaking a bit and some gorilla cranked it down. You will need to remove the bezel trim, and loosen the nut that holds the shaft and cartridge.  There may be two nuts. If you loosen too much, the valve will leak. Some models require a spanner type wrench to loosen.  A good close up pic without the trim would help here. If you can post the exact model number, we may be able to pull up an install detail for ya.


how to cure scratches and dents on hardwood floor

Michael Karas's answer is the standard way to refinish the floor to an "original" appearance if there is enough wood left.  If sanding out deep scratches, dents, and chips isn't an option, or you will be satisfied with "less than perfect", a light sanding just to evenly remove the old finish and then refinishing may be adequate.  Short of that, there are still some options, especially for dents and chips that light sanding won't help.

Minor scratches and scuffs can often be masked by just cleaning and putting down some clear water-based polyurethane finish.  You can use a small brush or cotton swab to saturate the scratch, then feather the area.

Sometimes, rather than staining the floor and then putting down a clear shine coat, installers or refinishers take shortcuts and just use a colored finish.  If scratches leave bare, unstained wood showing, you may need to stain the scratch to match before putting down clear poly.

Note that touching up in this way can be a fast, big improvement, but it won't match the results of sanding and doing it right.  The scratches are likely to still be visible from an angle if the lighting is good.
Dents sometimes respond to steam, re-expanding the wood.
Chips can be a combination of a dent and missing wood, so steam may lessen it.  Then the appearance can be improved through filling and matching, depending on the wood and the nature of the chip.  The result will be much less noticeable, but will usually look like a color-matched knot or paint spot.  An artist can sometimes match the wood pattern, making it hardly noticeable, but those efforts tend not to stand up to wear, especially if you allow the poly coat to wear off.


Wiring a Z-Wave 3-way auxiliary with neutral from other switch? (w/ diagrams!)

Practically speaking, this arrangement should work without an issue, as everything is on the same circuit and a smart-switch isn't going to draw enough current to significantly heat a metal box by induction.  However, there are some very sticky Code-compliance issues involved with funky neutral routing -- the 300.3/300.20 mess is not at all clear, and if you have metal boxes, what you describe is technically a Code violation unless you modify the box to put a slot between the switch-loop cable and the incoming-power cable.

A plastic box, though, is immune to these sorts of issues...but the neutral not being in the same cable as the hot could still be seen as a 300.3 type of issue by the AHJ.  So, you're on the right track, but double-check with your local electrical inspectors to make sure that they won't ding you on this!

Of course, running a 12/4 instead of the 12/3 for the switch loop lets you run a neutral with the loop -- simply connect the switch loop's neutral to the smart switch, and then do not connect the incoming-power neutral to the switch loop's neutral in the loop-end box, or else you'll definitely be violating 300.3(B)/310.10(H) due to the inadvertently looped/paralleled neutral!

And while you're at it with the walls open -- run a 12/4 for the other switch loop -- the NEC has a requirement for the neutral to be present now, even if you aren't putting in a "smart switch" straight away.  (Just wirenut it off at the unused end if you want to keep the dumb switch there)


What could cause low pressure in both hot and cold water lines after flushing hot water tank?

I assume when you drained the tank, you turned off the main cold water supply.  I suspect that the cold water valve is not opened all the way now. Check to see if in fact it is open full. If it is, and the pressure is still low, you may have a jammed or damaged valve. This is very common on old valves that are not used very often. The seats and washers inside the valve can degrade over time and now are not allowing water to pass freely.


How do I remove textured paint from my patio floor?

You say "paint-like" texture. Are you sure it's paint?
If it's paint, any sort of chemical paint stripper should do the trick. There are quite a number of more "friendly" "citrus" or "orange" based paint strippers that don't have the smell and toxic concerns of paint strippers of the past.
I presume a patio is outdoors, so a pressure washer may do the trick. Aim the blast at the currently chipped edges to allow the water to get underneath them and lift. You may need to shoot the water almost horizontally for the more stubborn bits. Aiming at a fairly well covered area is unlikely to get a hole started. If you've got enough pressure to do that, though, you've got a non-zero chance of actually damaging the concrete underneath, too, so turn down the pressure.
It's possible that you've got an epoxy coating instead of paint.  I'm not certain if the "friendly" strippers will work on that, you'll probably have to get one that's specifically for epoxy coating. Also, the pressure washer may not work so well on epoxy - it tends to grip pretty well.
If you're not sure what you've got, try taking a few flakes (the bigger the better) to a local paint store to see if the can ID it for you and make a recommendation.


Yep, sunlight will definitely change the color of plastics. It's the UV light, which is invisible to you, but also causes your sunburns.

I'd imagine you'll be cleaning this on a more or less regular basis yourself with some kind of disinfectant. I'd probably disinfect everything (a mild bleach water solution would do nicely) immediately upon moving in, just because.

If you really hate it, you could always try demanding that the landlord replace it, or you can find a replacement pretty cheap, like this one for $14 at Home Depot.

If you replace it, it'll probably turn yellow again eventually, but it'll happen slowly and you'll either have moved out by then, or will have grown to accept it as yours, or you'll just replace it again with another cheap toilet seat.

I wouldn't worry about it from a sanitary standpoint, though.  :-)


Right off the bat, finish with your original intent, and hook the cable up to a GFCI receptacle that is inside the garage.  Now come off the receptacle's LOAD terminals to your underground line to the pool area.

What you don't want to do is bring unprotected 120VAC out to a pool area and then fit a GFCI recep there. Because then, the wiring does not have GFCI protection, and the wiring can electrify the ground.  Especially if NM cable is used, which is not made for outdoor use.

Anyway, continue off the GFCI's load terminals via UF-B cable buried with 12" of cover because it's GFCI protected... or run a conduit type of your choice from that indoor recep outside, then switch to 1/2" Rigid conduit for the underground run to the pool, this can be buried at 6" of cover (but it's expensive).  Use THHN individual wires inside the Rigid conduit, do not put UF-B cable in conduit (won't fit anyway).

Use 12 AWG wire or cable.

As far as extending off the 15A circuit, yeah, you kind of painted yourself into a corner on that.  I'd go ahead and replace that #14 run with #12 (or just run it alongside) and call it a life-lesson learned.

Violating the installation instructions is a bad idea.  If anyone gets hurt at your pool (and electrical drownings are absolutely horrible, gut-wrenching, life-changing things), they will go over your setup with a fine-tooth comb.  Any violations, you'll have a problem.


How to install corner bead on an uneven corner

I'm not sure I understand the problem. That corner is beautiful compared to most. Corner bead isn't normally screwed, though, for the reason you've encountered--screws pull way to hard and cause deformation. Use drywall nails (gently) or narrow-crown staples (like for underlayment).
Be sure to keep the bead above the plane of the wall. In the photo, the top side has a slight recess where the edge of the other sheet terminates. Don't pull the bead down tight to that. I like to stand a carpenter's square on the wall surface and lap onto the bead. If the square doesn't have a slim gap under it, shift the bead flange on the adjacent wall face to make it so. Imagine pulling your taping knife down that wall later... you don't want it to scrape the flange.


Do I need exterior grade cables or conduit to run wire in an enclosed soffit?

While soffits usually have some venting in them, the interior of soffits are interior spaces not much different from unfinished attics to which they connect. Attics do not require different wiring from other interior spaces, so it doesn't seem that soffits should either. While attics (and basements) may often be more humid than some other spaces in a wiring scheme, these do not pose significant problems for normal interior cabling and outlet boxes.

The fixture illustrated has a weatherseal around the base (as do all exterior fixtures) to keep water from infiltrating. On the other side of that seal, no liquid water should be present.

It seems likely that the same applies to CAT5e cabling.  However, as has been discussed elsewhere, fire rating of low voltage cable is an issue. Use properly rated cable.


Questions about home water pressure (105-110 PSI range) and the drastic pressure drop when a single faucet is opened

It sounds like your pressure reducing valve (regulator)  is not working properly.
Normally the max pressure is 80 psi or less, there are several possibilities since this was not a problem in the past we will go to debris plugging the orifices. I have found that rust / scale has prevented the valve from fully closing thus you see full pressure at all times static, once there is flow the valve opens but the orifices are partly blocked so the flow is limited and the pressure falls.

Hopefully you have a shutoff valve prior to the valve / regulator turn the pressure off bleed the water pressure off and back the adjustment. now disassemble  you will see several small channels and the debris are probably obvious, I put a rag over the body and turn the water on for a second to flush other small bits of crud. I clean the diaphragm and reassemble (if you can find a rebuild kit these are a good idea incase the diaphragm gets damaged) the last kit I bought was mid 20$ some are less depending on size and type. Make sure to get a potable kit since this is a source of drinking, bathing and dish washing water.

Once reassembled or possibly replaced turn the water on and increase the pressure setting to the 60-80 range (this is normal fro many homes) now when you turn on a faucet the pressure should stay at or close to your pressure setting.

The one thing I did not talk about was a ruptured diaphragm but these normally have full flow because the water bypasses the valve section through the rupture.


Non-contact voltage tester can't find cause

A non-contact tester is wholly inadequate as a stand alone test instrument. In the right and skilled hands it can be of assistance and reduce the overall trouble shoot time.  In an amateur's hands it is useless. For an amateur it can tell you if voltage is present in a lamp cord of hot side of a receptacle, very little more.  It was never designed to do more.  A genuine VOA meter is a minimum to look for faulty wiring problems. Big Box stores is a good place to get one. P.


Man you can make that look really nice.   I would pop a 1x of pine on that and stain and poly it before install.   It only needs a couple of screws (or finishing nails - debate debate!).   And then you have this nice focal point ledge on the basement.   Can hold a vase, the remotes, or just stack it with junk!
I dont know how long of a run you have but - you have a LOT of options.

just the nice pine ledge (pine takes moisture really well, doesn't swell, and the stain doesn't fade fast with moisture)... ok here is the deal.  cool as hell if you can get something that spans the area or if you have an idea to cover the joint of 2 different 1xs with some ornamental wood (or functional)
pop in wall shelving all the way across.
be eclectic - different size pine boards... its a wall.   Different size shelves and whatever.

Do not hide this edge with drywall/mud.   I have a feeling just looking at it + your description you could drywall/mud but that's trying to hide it.   Make it look like you framed it for a purpose.   Make people who enter your basement think - wow wonder why he framed a ledge out like that, love that idea.   I always try to take any weird architectural iffyness and turn it into a focal point.


Why is my outdoor air conditioner unit making a screeching/squeeling sound?

If your heating system is purely electrical (see comments), then your outside unit is not an Air Conditioner, but a Heat Pump, who's job is to take heat from outside (ha ha for you New Englanders and Mid Atlantic types) and bring it inside.

So your system is squealing because it's running as its supposed to, only it's cold outside, and the parts need lubrication.

Have your system checked/maintained by a qualified Heat Pump technician.


Take power to each switch. Then feed neutral, ground, and a switched hot to each set of lights.

Grounds not shown for simplicity


GFCI Breaker - not tripped = outlets work, turn light switch on breaker trips, lights work but outlets do not

If the lights stay on while the breaker is tripped, they must be getting power from another circuit. That means the electrician has mixed wiring between two different circuits. A GFCI breaker trips if there's any imbalance between the hot and neutral wires connected to it; if the lights are sharing the GFCI circuit's neutral wire while also drawing some power from a different circuit's hot, the breaker should definitely trip. The arcing you mention further reinforces that the wiring for the lights has used a hot from a different circuit while using the GFCI's neutral.

What you need to do now is figure out what the second circuit powering the lights is, figure out where it's tied in to the lights, and either disconnect it from the lights, or make sure the lights only use the neutral for that circuit.


Correct orientation for t-shaped shelf bracket to minimize stress on anchor bolts

Whether the 2" side up or the 4" side up, it doesn't matter in terms of the stress on the bolt.

We can do a simple analysis as below. In the figure below your T-shaped bracket in drawn in blue while the two bolts are drawn in red. For simplicity we assume that the bracket only contacts the wall via the two bolts at the very top and very bottom end. W is the total gravitational force of your bracket, shelf and its load. The forces on the two bolts are decomposed into perpendicular directions f1~f4.

Basic physics tells us that:

Therefore, the axial (horizontal) forces on the two bolts (f1 and f2) are equal and determined by the ratio of (2+4)/d, which is irrelevant to whether 2" or 4" is up or down. The vertical forces (f3 and f4) will add up to the total weight W, but their exact values are under-determined (but irrelevant to which side is up).

I am responding to Jim's questions in the comment.

(1) In my figure I clearly shows that f1 and f2 point in the opposite direction, therefore f1=f2. If you insist "use a consistent coordinate system" and "to the right is positive", then f1=-f2, but it doesn't change anything.

(2) Equation 3 is correct. Here we are calculating torque of W using bolt 1 as the origin (fulcrum). We are not calculating momentum or angular momentum. The torque of W is calculated as  and obviously . That how to get equation 3. Or more generally,

BTW this is also why Willk's analysis based on "the longer the distance from fulcrum to end of the lever, the more the force is amplified" is wrong. Willk forgets about the angle between the force and lever arm.


Clamp meters need to be clamped around a single conductor, they will not work if clamped around the entire cable.  You would need to clamp around a place where a single conductor is exposed without the metal armor, usually in the main breaker panel or at a receptacle, switch or junction box.


Tiling shower walls how and where to start

If both corners are equally visible the best way is to start in the middle plumb on center. As you get to the corner measure and cut to fill. The leftover peice is the size of your starter for the next wall. Draw a new plumb line on the short wall according to off cut. This method does not always work out. If you end up with a tiny piece in the corner, offset your center line until visually appealing.

If your tile is 16 wide it would work out like this

Your short starter peice on the short wall would be about 5-1/2 inches

Starting at one corner is much easier but real professionals will normally start on center.


How can I create circuit diagrams and what program should I use?

I knew a few EE's who used TinyCAD for circuit diagrams. It might be a little bit of overkill for drawing simpler diagrams though.

The best news is, it's FREE!

Screenshot:


What is the standard way to secure flex duct in an attic?

That duct is not done properly notice how the duct is collapsed. Webbing can be used I have used plumbers tape (a metal strip with holes) at the first support after a rise I will screw a saddle of scrap ductwork to keep the duct from collapsing. I have used webbing but always think it will separate over time I usually melt the holes to reduce the chance of this but still make a saddle on the rise to spread the force out then support it regularly so it won’t collapse but nylon strapping is ok. I would want to fix that collapsed section a section of single wall duct like dryer duct opened up could make several sections of saddles.


Most better thinset mortars are proprietary polymer-modified recipes which provide bond and flexibility that cement alone doesn't offer. Your home brew will be brittle and unreliable.

You could attempt to add modifiers to your mix, but the outcome will be a gamble. Also, any sand you use should be very fine or you'll have an unworkable grit.


Ceiling fan lights brighten when fan turned on

We don't have this problem anymore because we got rid of the ceiling fan and got a new dimmer.


How do I select a color to paint various rooms in my home? What color guides are best?

I agree with ChrisF's comment that this is subjective. I doubt you'd share my love of bright fuchsia with lime green trim I have in all my rooms.

That being said, Behr's "Paint Your Place" is a tool that allows you to pick colors and add them to a picture you've uploaded to get a better idea of what the finished room would look like.


You can use a diamond blade to cut drainage channels. Noisy and messy, but it works. You can (for reasonable sums) either rent a concrete saw or purchase a diamond blade for an angle grinder, as you prefer. You can purchase a concrete saw, of course, but the sums appear unreasonable to me for a one-time project.

With such a limited amount of water (no wetness entering other than on the car) you could probably just cut a grid and leave it at that, with the water collecting in the channels and evaporating. An approach with a bit more finesse would cut the channels a bit deeper under the middle of where the car sits so the water would tend to drain away from where you are walking.

If you wanted to put in a sump (seems over the top for this garage) you would carefully slope the channels to it. While the floor does not have a proper slope, if the channels do, the water moves off the "islands" of floor between the channels, and then flows to the sump. That is typically done with a guide rail that you support at the desired slope above the floor to run the saw on.

I don't think the water in any way affects the structural integrity of your house.

If you have adequate headroom you could also add a new layer on top of the existing slab, without breaking it up, though I don't think there's any real need for that.

The cracks are probably not related and not of any real concern.


What would cause a led light to turn off after one second?

We've seen the "one second" thing before.  The issue was an electronic switch (dimmer, motion sensor, etc.) which used a 2-wire installation - it's designed to work in a traditional "switch loop" where it has no access to neutral.  It sits in series with the light bulb.  When off, it exploits the fact that incandescent bulbs have very low impedance when unlit. When on, it's counting on a lot of current flow through the incandescent.  These devices do not play well with CFL/LED.

Perhaps it's a dimmer and you don't even realize it. Some dimmers look exactly like plain light switches, just with a range of positions.

Upshot: check out the switch, replace.  Switches (which aren't dimmers) are about a buck.


How should I paint a door different colors on each side?

Paint the edges the color of the side it opens.


Is there a more durable way to catch washing machine lint?

We purchased a washable filter for the drain of our washing machine, not so much as to prevent clogging the utility sink (separate drain) but to protect the septic tank and drain field.

I understand that this is not a proper location for recommendations, but if you search for filtrol 160, you may be in luck. I purchased a second filter sock for the unit, allowing me to wash off the more recently used filter while a fresh one is placed.

Clearly you won't want to rinse the filter off in your utility sink, or in any location which may continue the clogging problem. I wait until the weather is good, turn the sock inside out and hose it with the garden hose on high pressure stream. The gunk in the sock is mostly dirt, although there's likely some synthetic fibers. I don't think there's enough to be an environmental concern when washed while outside.


Covering a ductwork bulkhead with pine board

If the goal is to make the duct look like a wood beam it can be done but it depends on how the duct was supported and sheetrock attached. If ribs were installed around the duct and the sheetrock attached to them it will be easy , if the sheetrock was glued to the duct it will take more work but still can be done. The reason I mentioned sheetrock glued to ducts is I have run into this several times and I would not hang anything on it until properly supported.


How can I add a grounding conductor to my early 20th century electrical system?

In the US we need to conform to the NEC code. That code requires two copper ground rods 10' long to be driven into the ground with only a couple inches exposed.

The rods must be placed a certain distance apart.
The ground must also be connected to the main cold water copper pipe entering the house
The water meter must have a wire jumper across it of the same required gauge of the main ground
The main breaker panel must be equipped with an approved grounding bar and the breaker box "bonded".

I don't know the codes where you are, but I suggest you get an electrician that knows the local codes. Improper methodes of grounding can be dangerous and lethal!

Also I can tell you that your washing machine problem is not due to a missing ground. The machine should be grounded for safety, but it will not cause the problems you have.


I think I sprayed too much primer for my first coat when painting my cabinets. What should I do next?

The smoother it is before each coat, the better the coat will look. I run my fingers over the surface while sanding to find and remove imperfections that aren’t visible.
If 120 grit is slow, go with 80 grit, then 120, then 240 and finish with 320 or even 400. For between coats you should only need a very light sand with 400.
(Instead of buying 400 grit, you can keep your used 320 grit since they get smoother before becoming useless).
Painting requires patience and practice. All paint behaves slightly different and the air temperature/humidity will also affect it.


Should I tilt my DIY self-standing bookshelf backwards to prevent it falling down?

Use Screws Anyway
If it was me, I would quietly ignore "I am not allowed to secure it using screws in the wall." We are talking about a couple of screws here, which would leave ~ 1/4" holes, not cutting out large sections of the wall.
Assuming it is drywall or plaster over studs, as opposed to a brick wall, I would put in two screws (~ 2" long) through brackets on the top shelf positioned so that the screws go into studs. The patching needed when you leave, if any, is minimal - really would get taken care of trivially as part of a routine "get ready for a new tenant paint job". You'll sleep much better.


What is this copper ring insert in my sharkbite supply valve?

Here is the correct answer to the question as it is written.

The copper ring is a ferrule, which is part of a compression fitting.

You absolutely need the copper Ferrule for a watertight connection, and plumbers tape is not necessary when this type of connection is installed properly.

If you do not know what a copper Farrule is and what a compression fitting is than you need to learn before you try to install this valve.

I have no way of knowing if you have the correct part for the plumbing task that you are trying to accomplish. If you edit your question with more details and photos then I may be able to help.


I'd vote #4 = fewest cuts, least amount of labor, least amount of waste. It's also see as the 'default' as most argue that floors look best when laid in the direction parallel to widest walls.

For real hardwood, the general rule of thumb is to lay it perpendicular to the floor joists. This is to add strength. It probably adds a little strength to laminate flooring, but not sure it's enough to worry about.

But, at the end of the day, it's a personal opinion thing. Go with what you like.

As for the transition piece, you may need it, but engineered laminates are pretty stable. They don't expand and contract a whole lot. You might be able to get by with merely leaving a 1/8" gap or so and caulk it with matching caulk.


The easiest thing would be to fill the gap with UV resistant silicone caulk. Before you apply the silicone, make sure the join is very dry.


Why would holes exist behind a baseboard?

I know this is an old post but maybe my response can help someone in the future. We had a water leak in our bathroom that saturated a few baseboards. A water mitigation team came out, removed the baseboards and drooled holes exactly like this around the perimeter. They have set up multiple fans and dehumidifiers to dry everything up and will then put a mold treatment down to prevent any mold from forming. I was told new baseboards  can just be put up. So, looks like a past leak and hopefully it was treated properly before putting those boards back up.


Is it normal to have flooding in basement after radon mitigation system installed?

The radon pipe should be tightly sealed through the basement floor. If that gap you identified goes though the floor, then it should be sealed up because the system is supposed to vent radon from the soil. That opening would prevent that from happening and if you had a lot of rain, you could get water rising up through that gap.

Wait until the basement dries out and then play detective to see if you can determine where the water comes from. If it comes from some other cracks in the walls or floor, they should be sealed up to increase the effectiveness of your radon system and to stop the water seepage.


why is 4500 watts so common in water heaters?

My belief is the controls are cheaper. I have installed a 5500w element in my home’s water heater after the element had failed.  The control was rated for 4100 or 4500 I don’t remember, and within 6 months that control or thermostat went out.  It was a high end model, so I replaced the controller and it only lasted 4 months. I called for a warranty (providing my license info) and they sent a new one. The new one also failed in 4 months, so I went through all the fun stuff again and the company said for $20 more I could upgrade to the commercial one. I told them they could send me that one on their dime; I said it was their warranty and was listed for the element they tried to convince me to pay the extra saying 4500watts is normal and I had to upgrade.  Short version: they did send the commercial version after verification of my license (where they get home owners).
I had disassembled the first one that failed the contact sets were fairly small about the diameter of a pencil maybe slightly larger. The commercial version the contacts were replaceable and close to 1/2” square. That water heater was still running years later when I sold that house so I believe the reason most come with smaller heaters is they are on the edge of needing larger contacts and this costs more. My example is from the late 80’s but contact amperage would be a constant increase the load and a larger area in needed for long life.
The company tried to get out of the 3rd replacement by saying the instructions required a licensed electrician I faxed my card to them, that’s when I got the commercial replacement.  It had a higher rating but I no longer remember what it was.
So I believe that they provide lower wattage elements for longer life.  When the controller failed they wanted proof it was installed by a licensed electrician. I bet they do it on the first failure today.


What's better aluminum tape or mesh tape w/mastic for sealing dryer vent?

Using mesh and mastic is very important if you want to seal all of your HVAC runs in a house.  Tape simply doesn't adhere good enough over time to limit the tiny holes they are trying to cover.  It is a big deal to seal a house up right because a properly sealed unit can be 10-20% more efficient - and that is a lot of money for the 2-4 hours it takes to seal it right.

However... your dryer is not part of your HVAC system.  It is just a vent going to the outside of your house.  The tape is just used to make sure there is a smooth transition so that nothing get caught in your connections (you should not screw in your dryer venting runs to each other).  Therefore aluminum tape is the way to go because when you want to clean out your vents you can untape them and retape - hard to do this with mesh/mastic.


The GFCI outlet in my bathroom pops when I turn off the bathroom fan

It's not the outlet.  It's a ground fault.

Here's what is happening.  When you have a big magnetic coil, and power is flowing through it, it makes a magnetic field.   When you suddenly interrupt that power, the magnetic field collapses, and this has a small force behind it. It is the nature of coils to resist changes in current flow.  It does this by turning that small force into voltage, which increases until the desired current flows, or the force just runs out of energy.  This is called an "inductive kick" and everything in the circuit must be insulated for it.

When the insulation fails, the high voltage will ignite an arc that the lower voltage will sustain.  It can also leap across switches!   In DC power over about 30 volts, this arc is Very Nasty Business because the arc will never stop.

However, with AC power, AC switches polarity 100-120 times a second (8-10 milliseconds).  It is a sinewave, and part of the time it is near zero volts.  The arc will self-extinguish at the next zero crossing.  But in the meantime, the arc will flow enough current (potentially a lot of current) to trip the GFCI.

However... If you happen throw the switch at the right instant, you are near a zero-crossing for the voltage or magnetic field, so there's no magnetic field and no inductive kick.  So no voltage spike.

So, no leakage and no GFCI trip.

Insulation is failing.  This will get worse.

I would start by changing the switch because they are cheap.  But prepare for a fan replacement, or at least take it down and clean it.  Damp dust makes a great leakage path.

Note that switches have ratings, and their rating for a motor (inductive) load is much lower than a plain load.   They may also have a similar "ballast" rating, because HID and older fluorescent lights have ballasts with a big inductive winding.  Their tungsten rating has nothing to do with this.


I have used a segmented blade to cut asphalt with a worm drive skill saw. this was a long time back I don’t remember if it was carbide , diamond or possibly flame sprayed (I don’t know what that coating is).
when the blade got hot it smoked and I did not realize until later was filling the guard with hot tar, the blade had no problem making a similar length cut maybe a few feet longer but when my saw cooled down it was basically ruined, the tar became solid and froze my guard in place I did try for a few hours to heat and clean it but no matter how good it looked when it cooled the guard froze up. I ended up pulling the motor and tossing the guard. I have wiped out a few saws over my years and this one I did not even think would be so nasty. Just an FYI I might be inclined to purchase a garage sale special for a job like this it can do the job but I would not risk a good worm drive again.


What is a carriage bolt washer with mounting spikes called?

That is a toothed or pronged "torque washer". As you suspect, it's intended to prevent a carriage bolt from turning in soft wood.


Wiring a light socket that doesn't have screws

If there is only 1 set of wiring coming to this fixture use the back stabs (I hate back stabs). If there are more than 1 set pigtail and then use back stabs. This is one of the few places I have used backstab fixtures. I would never use the back stabs to jumper the sets, if the pigtail is used the only power being used is by the fixture itself. I have not had any problems with pigtails and back stabs but using the fixture as the jumper I have seen hundreds of failures. There should be a strip guide on the fixture strip the wire to that length. Push the wire into the round hole . this can normally only be used with 14 awg wire. If no strip gauge strip between 1/2 to 3/4 inch if copper is showing a piece of scrap wire or a small screwdriver can be used in the slot to remove the wire and trim it off and verify that no copper is showing and you should be good to go.


Identifying replacement bearings for installed heater fan motor

The way to find different bearings is by the size bb1023 crosses to a double sealed 6.35 x22 x7  mm bearing
Mr627zz is the same id/od and 1/4” thick so it is slightly thicker and may work under 5 bucks. Looking at the bearing specs I would give it a try. I cross bearings for motors all the time, I can tell you a timkin or sky bearing in some cases is worth the extra but in a light duty motor like a fan I would save a few $
Mr627-2rs
Mr627zz
I thought I typed in the wrong size after double checking my answer but I just typed the size wrong in the answer corrected.


What causes the noise coming from this radiator valve?

That's an odd noise, it sounds like something's loose inside the pipe and rattling around. Might be a piece of rust or gunk. If you remove the thermostat head and press the rod down completely, the rattling should cease because the valve is closed and there's no water flow. If the noise continues, that indicates the valve isn't closing properly.


What knots/hitches should I use to attach a log to a screw eye?

A boom hitch (ABoK #1687), might look nice around the log.

A simple bowline (ABoK #1010), or other secure loop would be fine for the hooks.

A simple loop with a decorative weave on the standing end, might also look nice.  That way the decorative bit would be above/below the loop.


Why is my thermostat turning the heat on too soon?

Mercury thermostats are VERY accurate and last forever.
Either it is now not level, or the heat anticipator is mis adjusted or not making good contact.
If set at 65 degrees, the furnace should kick on at 64 and shut off at 66.
If the swing is wider than that, the heat anticipator needs to be moved towards shorter.
My Honeywell mercury thermostat is 65 years old
and still works perfect.


Maybe.  The definitive test is to measure the voltage before the main breaker when the failure occurs.

If you are handy and knowledgeable enough about electric wiring, remove the breaker box panel cover.  Probe the main lead wires coming from the meter with a voltmeter or voltage indicator during an outage.

Note that opening the panel and taking a good close visual look at the leads upstream and downstream of the main breaker might reveal the problem.  Maybe there are discolored or loose wires, melted insulation, charring, a stray wire, etc.


Are you planning to build an entirely custom bath unit? Or modify an existing product?

Most jetted tub manufacturers I've come across explicitly require certain pumps and void warranties if third-party pumps are used.  For example, American Standard brand has the following in their installation doc:

  Do not make modifications to the
  whirlpool system or remove pump from
  factory mounting. This could adversely
  affect the safety and performance of
  the whirlpool and void the warranty

I'd check with the manufacturer first before going down this route.  If they do support it, they could probably make appropriate recommendations.


I have doubt it's even the tip clogging - could be a valve failure and have the described symptoms. I have never needed to clean the orifices on a propane torch, and I've been using them (the same ones, for the most part, other than having them walk off sometimes) for decades. Oxy-acetylene, yes - those can and do get sooted up. Propane/propylene-air - never.

Sometimes "cheap" is expensive, and "costly" is inexpensive.


How to fix Kitchen drain that came apart?

I believe that you lost a (retaining) screw. It might have fallen down the drain... hopefully it's lodged in the p-trap. This is similar to: How to replace my kitchen sink basket with no lock nut?


Thermopile reading very low in my gas fireplace

So the problem was actually the gas pipe, not the thermo. I guess it was corroded inside or had some dirt, but basically it was nothing more than not enough gas coming out. I put in a new line and presto, everything's perfect.


Replacing a few boards in a hardwood floor: sanding and refinishing?

If you can slide them in, then - sand, finish (top face only), assemble. You may need to use a bit of glue on the grooves in the new pieces to hold them in place.

There still may be a visible difference between the color and finish of the old and the new. The only way to get them both exactly the same is to refinish the entire floor as suggested by @python starter. But whether the difference is too much is a matter of taste.


How can I tell if a faucet valve seat is removable or not?

You have to look for notches in the seat wall to see if it is removable:

The seat in the picture has 4 notches and would be removed/installed with a common tapered square seat wrench.  Some newer seats will have a hexagonal hole in the middle and can be removed with an Allen wrench.

Look closer at your seats for even the hint of the square notches.  They can corrode over and be less visible, but from what I see in your pics, those are not removable.

For non-removable seats (and even removable ones), there is a "reseating" tool for faucets that is basically a round grinding disk on a T handle that can be used to grind down the seat a bit giving you a new smooth surface.  It is possible to grind too much, so you'd do a little at a time.


What is a good way to cut hard plastic so it will have a smooth finish?

I would recommend cutting the peg(s) using a fine toothed saw like this one:

These saws cut very smooth and are made by Xacto. Should be available from most serious hardware stores and craft centers.

One Source:

http://www.sears.com/x-acto-extra-fine-saw-blade-tools-hand/p-SPM12429862532

Many types of plastics can be sanded with very fine sand paper. You want to look for a product known as "wet or dry" sand paper with a grit number up to 1500 or more. If the cutting operation leaves some saw kerf marks on the stub of the peg you may need to start with a courser paper and then work your way up to the highest numbered grit to get the polish you desire. The Silicon Carbide type wet-dry sandpaper should be available at good hardware stores. Sometimes you can also find this at auto parts stores.


1 double throw switch 3 lights one position only 2 of the same 3 lights in the other position

Assuming you mean to use a three-position switch so that you can also turn all the lights off, the answer is -- yes, you can do this, but it is expensive and moderately difficult.

You need to use a double-pole double-throw center-off wall switch. These are available from Leviton and Grainger for about $55 to $105. I couldn't find a cheaper vendor.

There are several ways to wire it. Here is one:

In the down position, lamps 1 and 2 are lit. In the up position, all three lamps are lit.

For my money, I would just use two single-pole single-throw switches in a 2-gang box. You could connect two lamps to one switch and one lamp to the other, or you could wire them like this:

With A and B off, all three lamps are dark. With A off and B on, all three lamps are dark.

With A on and B off, lamps 1 and 2 are lit and lamp 3 is dark.

With A and B on, all three lamps are lit.


Do n95 masks provide ANY protection against asbestos?

It's asbestos, not kryptonite

It's not that toxic, or it would have never attained its status as a popular material in the first place.

Yes, it turns out to have been a lung-tissue irritant and carcinogen (don't look now: so is fiberglass), but it's so subtle it took 50 years to figure it out, and even then it only was seen in career daily occupational exposure.

The only reason there's any hysteria at all about asbestos is the lawyer feeding frenzy caused by the existence of trust funds to settle cases: the lawyers are bombing all advertising media trying to find people who will let them take 1/3 contingency fee for easy cases on well-trod ground.

Meanwhile you have the government trying to communicate to employers (read: cheap and old fashioned) and off-the-curb, never-see-em-again day-labor employees (read: non-English speakers) how to protect themselves from daily, career-long occupational exposure to asbestos, so we don't get any new cases.  Their advice is to use tip-top gear, because that adds up when you do it everyday for years.  In that context, true, you want better than N95, but the way they communicate that to cheap employers is "N95 masks don't work".

Which is not true at all, in your incidental case. You are much better off having used that mask, mainly due to other risks.

So if you want to be part of the mesothelioma moral panic, just keep in mind negative thoughts are far more carcinogenic than whatever got through that mask.

One other thing: Gypsum is fireproof.  Drywall is gypsum and drywall is used for firestops.


Why not leave the lock in place, drill a hole for a new lock and move the locking mechanism a few inches to the right or left?


How to Wire Fantech FR100 in-line exhaust, venting two bathrooms with Two TopGreener TDHOS5 Humidity Motion Sensor switches

This isn't as hard as it looks

First off -- the TDHOS5 (which is an Enerlites product, by the way) has manual on/off tap-switches for the light and fan built in, so you do not need separate manual switches (in fact, having separate manual switches could be much more confusing than using the tap-switches).

Second, the required wiring for this is actually rather simple -- the humidity-sensor portions of the TDHOS5s are wired in parallel (wired-OR connection), while the motion-sensor portions are wired to independent lights, as in the diagram below.  One caveat is that when you're wire-ORing switches like this, one of the switches effectively needs to be on a switch loop (instead of routing switched hots independently from two boxes to the load) to avoid violating 300.3(B)/310.10(H) about wires in parallel.


Are there restrictions on having all the lights on one floor on a single circuit breaker?

That will come out to 4 light fixtures on one 15A circuit and 6 outlets on the other 15A circuit.

I would highly recommend going to 20A on the 6 outlets. It means going from 14 to 12, but you'll be able to run more things off those outlets. You can still install 15A outlets, as they can be used on a 20A circuit. Speaking from experience, you'll regret staying at 15A if you start maxing the circuit out (and it doesn't take much these days)

The lights can all stay on the same circuit at 15A, which will make wiring your switches up cheaper (don't forget to add a neutral in your switches!). Most lights do not draw that much (especially if you go LED).


How to open up this single lever American Standard shower knob

The front pops off, I hope this helps anyone who is looking for an answer to this!


What you may be seeing is a flush-mount version of a spa panel or enclosed breaker

From your description, I would reckon that what you are looking at is something akin to a "spa panel" disconnect or circuit breaker enclosure, only in a flush-mounted configuration (vs. the surface mounting typically attributed to spa panels and enclosed breakers).  These are usually 2-4 space loadcenters, with 70A to 125A bussing; larger versions use a breaker with line and load lugs instead, bolted to the box, and are called enclosed circuit breakers.


light switch conversion 3 gang to 1 gang

The simplest way is to install blanks into the unneeded openings, they are commercially available:


How to connect a 2 wire 220v power inverter to a 3 wire 220/110v house

I’m going to assume you’re in North America, with split-phase 120/240 volt service.

The answer is you can’t, at least not directly.  If you were to connect the inverter to your two hots, it would be the equivalent of losing your neutral. Search this site or the web for “open neutral” and you’ll see how dangerous that is.

In theory, you could use a 1-to-1 isolation transformer, with a center-tapped secondary to provide the neutral. Make sure it’s rated for the voltage and current (not to mention the line frequency) of the inverter.

Let’s talk about other issues.

For one thing, I wouldn’t be caught dead with that rig connected to my house! Read about all of the poorly designed and manufactured crap coming out of China these days. You are literally playing with fire.

Second, you say this is an off-grid inverter (glad you’re not trying to use a grid-tie inverter). Are you actually off-grid or just looking for backup? How are you planning to tie in to the house if you are normally on the grid? Flipping off the main breaker and flipping on the breaker to the inverter without any kind of interlock is dangerous and clearly against code. Either use a generator transfer switch or an interlock.

Last of all, don’t expect your homeowner’s insurance to be very happy when you make a claim. This rig is most likely not legal to be installed in the US.


Single phase utility power connected to 3 phase system

Using a three phase panel normally used with 208/120 three phase supply with 240/120 supply can be electrically sound and may even be code compliant.   But I am assuming the question is about a 240/120 split phase temporary power panel set on a pole, with a feeder running to an existing three phase panel that was installed with 208/120 three phase supply.  There could be a number of issues.

If there are three phase motors or other loads connected for 208Y, they obviously are not going to run right and may be damaged.

As mentioned in @Peter Green's answer, if there are multiwire branch circuits, you won't get the expected cancellation on neutral conductors, which could quickly result in overloaded on the neutrals.

If there are 208V circuits for appliances etc. (water heaters, baseboard heaters, etc.) they may see 0V or 240V depending which two legs they are on.  Those that see 0V won't run at all (but don't be fooled and think those wires aren't hot).  Those that see 240V - some could be unaffected and run fine; some could run differently than expected; and some could be damaged.


Paint basically does not cover imperfections at all.

Even with fairly "thick" (high viscosity paint), I would guess it would take at least three coats to even get a thumbtack hole filled in, and you'd probably still be able to see an indentation in the wall.

Depending on the size and nature of the "imperfection", you might be able to use spackle or skim coat. There are some primers on the market that can supposedly cover very small imperfections (like a scratch from sanding) but I'd be skeptical of that.

You can't cut corners here. It takes practice (and early on, lots of time and patience) to be good at applying it. You'll have to sand it afterwards. Use a flashlight and shine at an angle across the wall, and fix any bumps, ridges, etc before you prime or paint (it's significantly harder to fix after painting as you're basically starting the process over).


Installing a new 4-way switch troubleshooting

It was this: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/10982/38476
I was testing it without a load on it, and once I put a light fixture and bulb it behaved normally. It’s common for 3-way switches to have phantom voltage when there’s no load.


Please advise how to lubricate stiff latch bolt of mortise lockset on metal exterior security door. (NOT the pins in the keyway!)

Yes, this is just a lump of metal, big enough that it doesn't matter a lot what you lube it with. (I'd lean more to a grease than an oil -- lithium grease used with a light touch, perhaps.) But it also shouldn't need lubrication on a regular basis, so I suspect you've got something else going on.


I would use 1/4inch Luan panels and install without adhesive. Just install to manufacturers specs. This is typically to lay it down and use 1/4 inch crown staples, 1 inch long, every 6 inches along the perimeter and 8 inches in the field.

A few things to note:

Make sure the subfloor is secured before using the Luan.
Make sure there are no protrusions from old screws/nails.
Clean the subfloors well. A shop vac is a good method.
Make sure you stagger the seams by half of a sheet (or manufacturer specs). If using a full sheet to start one run, use a half sheet for the next run. Then back to a full sheet for the 3rd.
Be sure to check for and avoid over and under penetration of the staples.
Make some 1/4 in spacers and use those to keep the luan 1/4 from the walls.


Had someone come look at it last night. It was the capacitor on the unit. (Said that the top was bulged meaning it was bad) He replaced it, works like a charm! $100. I was convinced the whole thing was going to need replacing!


How to accurately cut plywood with unpowered hand tools?

First off be aware of a couple of important points.

In the old days before there ever was electricity and power tools crafts persons could build amazing things out of wood with hand tools alone.
Woodworking, similar to any other craft, takes patience and practice.
Plywood material such as you are proposing to work with is a modern thing invented in the age of power tools.

So yes you should be able to achieve your goals with hand tools if you take your time and work carefully. If you find any step of the process not going quite right slow down and practice till you perfect the skill for that process.

You should be able to cut the plywood with a good sharp handsaw. Plywood is a challenge though because you are simultaneously cross cutting some of the wood layers and rip cutting others. Hand saws are typically optimized as a cross cut (across the grain) or a rip (with the grain) type saw.

To get the best smooth cuts on plywood most folks will find that a power saw equipped with a carbide tipped blade will do the best job. This could be a portable circular saw if you measure for and setup a straight edge guide to run the saw base against you can end up with very good cuts.

The downside of hand cutting plywood is that you will invariably end up with a fairly rough edge. Sanding to get it smooth can be done but sanding has its problems because you can end up with a non-straight edge that may be rounded off. A hand plane may be a better choice but plywood is also a challenging material to hand plane and it is easy to get edge splintering when planing plywood in this manner.


Since this seems to be an ongoing problem for you, I might suggest a somewhat more formal approach to it. For instance, use magnets to attach toweling to the top of the radiator shell and let the duble-thickness of that towelling (magnet inside the fold) drape all the way to the floor - that should basically shut-down air flow through the radiator from top and bottom and be a bit neater besides. If you need to step it up a notch from there, remove all those, unroll a sheet of aluminum foil from one end to the other, and replace the towel over the top of that.

In both cases, do not try to "stuff things into" the radiator shell, but rather, cover them over completely from the floor to the top-exterior of the radiator shell, all the way to the end-caps (don't limit yourself to the "active area" with fins.)

If you have to buy supplies for this, the roll of aluminum foil would be cheaper to start with than a bunch of towels. Flannel sheets or whatever is cheap in the fabric store may be cheaper than towels as a source of long strip fabric.


Different hot circuits connected together

Hmm. If you have two hots connected and they are connected to the same buss bar in the service panel, then the result will be... 120V. You could end up with more amperage on the neutral or neutrals than the circuit breakers are rated for, though. A picture might really help, here. If the hot wires come from different buss bars, you'll have 240V on the wire because that's the total potential from one pole to the other on the transformer outside your place. The voltage won't hurt the wire, but it could cook connected equipment. Plus, you'll also have a direct short resulting in lots of amperage, so it should trip the breakers and nothing would work at all.

It sounds like if indeed you have hot wires from two different branch circuits connected together, they are on the same leg (same buss bar). The easiest way to see which one goes to which breaker is probably to undo the wire nut, flip breakers off and use an electrical tester to see which breaker cuts the power in which wire. If they're disconnected from one another, each wire should be energized at 120V.

While it is conceivable that an electrician made a mistake, I wouldn't hesitate to call in an electrician on that basis. Licensed electricians are professionals, by and large in both name and practice, who have had enough training and hands-on experience working as a journeyman for a licensed electrician to qualify for their professional license, plus the subsequent experience and continuing electrical education as a licensed professional. If you're worried about one particular electrician, call a different one.

If the one you think screwed up is a personal friend and you're worried about hurting their feelings or not getting invited to the next wedding, then call in the "replacement" when the original guy is really unlikely to just stop by, like during the middle of the day when both electricians are likely to be busy with business.  :-)


How do I connect 4 electrical wires to a 3-phase cooktop?

Since you are in Denmark, your mains are 400 V phase-phase, and 230 V phase to neutral. The white and brown wires are two of the three phases, and the yellow/green is your ground. You don't have a wire for the third phase available.

The standard IEC color code says that blue is neutral, brown is L1, grey (what you call white) is L3.

Your stove, since it doesn't have the screw for L3, presumably only needs two phases of power, neutral, and ground. This is what you have available.

You should connect yellow/green to PE and blue to N. I'd connect grey to (1) and brown to (2), preserving the ordering of the phases. The configuration of these two "hot" wires likely does not matter, as the cooktop's loads are likely all connected phase->neutral instead of phase->phase.


Yes, there are available parts like you ask about. Here is a picture of one type:

If you do a Google search with "eye nut" you can find more pictures, descriptions and sources of supply.

You may want to consider using two of these and then run a threaded rod through the tubing. In addition to the above type eyes (fixing or rigging hooks) you would use two nuts on each side of the threaded rod. One from each side to secure the threaded rod to the metal tubing and the second one threaded on before the eye nut. The second nut would be double nutted with the eye nut (i.e. tightened against the eye nut to secure the position of the eye in the proper orientation with respect to the eye on the other end of the tubing.

You could simplify the above suggestion by cutting the threaded rod just the right length and using just the eye nuts to secure the rod to the tube. In this case you would want to use a thread locker (such as LocTite) to lock the threads when the two eyes are in the desired orientation with each other.


Best way to affix EPS insulation panels to interior plaster walls?

Better check with the codes in your area.
Also check with your insurance company as EPS board is not recommended or approved for interior use due to flame spread and smoke.
If it is approved you can use a dispersion adhesive for attachment to the plaster walls.
Also you may cause a moisture problem between the plaster and the backside of the EPS.


Based on the above discussion and my own experience:

Turn the water off and twist hard.  New ball valves can be sticky, and the house water pressure behind the valve could be making that situation worse.

Apparently this worked for the original poster.


Should I remove this carpet glue from basement concrete before laying a floating floor?

if you follow the directions for the new flooring, the answer would be yes, to scrape it all up. here's the thing, when doing floating flooring, the floor underneath needs to be smooth, or you could feel imperfections through the floor as you walk. now that being said, as long as there are no big ridges in the glue and its all smooth, you should be able to get away without removing it. make sure that you remove all of the old tack strips and nails, getting the subfloor/concrete as smooth as you can before you install the new flooring.

I put in laminate flooring with attached underlayment back in april. There were a couple of spots on my subfloor that were not 100% even, joints in that were off by 1/4" and I was able to leave them, and now you cant even tell they are there.


Can one of the (two or more) required 20A circuits for kitchen receptacles also serve a Dishwasher? (California Code)

No way.
You need at least two kitchen countertop receptacle circuits.  Those circuits can have nothing on them except:

Receptacles in kitchen working areas
Other general-use receptacles in the kitchen, dining area, and pantry.
A wall clock.
A gas oven/range with small needs for controls and oven light.

A dishwasher is definitely not on that list.


What are some options for a small electric water flow control valve?

What you're looking for is called a proportional valve and they're typically not cheap.  Here's a series that should do what you want from ASCO, and I was able to find it for sale online for US$316 (as of today).  I'm not sure if that price includes the PWM controller module or not, or how necessary that module is.


Since you state, "When she unplugged it, the lights went out in the room," this seems like the inductive "kick" caused by breaking the circuit caused the issue, rather than overload from the heater.

Look for a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI or GFI) like that in the image below. These outlets are designed to help prevent electric shock, but are also sensitive to sudden surges. Since they're usually specified in wet locations, the outlet might be in a basement or bathroom, but wired to provide protection in the bedroom.


How many holes will hanging a heavy panel on my wall require?

If you do opt to go with 1/8" ply, I'd suggest you use "washer head pocket screws" (1-1/4" if you have 1/2" drywall). If you're putting the sheets of ply sideways, I'd use a screw every foot or so on each stud. That might be slight overkill, but my thinking is to mimic the fastening of a sheet of normal drywall, which (a) needs to support the weight, and (b) doesn't flap loosely.

Personally, I'd opt for a slightly more substantial ply (1/4") for better fastener holding. Whatever you use for mud, go for something that advertises "low shrinkage" on the label. Pre-mix is probably not a good choice; setting type compounds are apt to be better.


How can I repair a joint on the legs of my table?

I think your plan is doable with a little tweaking. Here's a list of some things to watch out for.

Before assembly you'll need to thoroughly clean the old glue off the surfaces of the joint paying particular attention to the face grain areas (end grain offers little strength to a joint). You don't need to get down to bare wood but all of the crusty bits have to go as they will both impede the joint from coming together and inhibit the new glue's ability to form a bond. Be careful not to round off any corners or your joints will look sloppy.
Your biggest challenge is going to be applying good clamp pressure to such an irregular shape. One trick is to temporarily glue on clamp blocks but as this is a finished piece I wouldn't recommend it because it might damage your finish. Your best bet may be to apply a few small, strategically located dots of an aerosol activated cyanoacrylate glue in addition to your yellow glue. Squeeze the joint together by hand and when you've it the way you want it, hit it with the aerosol and the super glue will hold the joint together while the yellow glue goes off. Maybe have an extra set of hands present to run the spray can, and work quickly because with or without the accelerant the super will go off in only a few minutes.
If you're feeling that the joint needs some mechanical strength, instead of screws use pegs. The screws will most likely fracture the extremely short grain on the edges of the joint, and because the screws can't go all the way through you won't get much strength out of them anyway. Pegs (while offering a pleasantly traditional look) will provide a lot of strength, and offer an alternate fix to the clamping problem in the form of what's called draw boring. It's kind of a lot to go into so I'll just provide this link. Good Luck!


What material is my waste stack made of, and what can I do with it?

The black is Orangeburg pipe, a layered (tar-based?) pipe. I did not think it was allowed inside, I have only ever found it as vents not as drains inside , yes it should be replaced with plastic , it usually falls apart in ground but your’s looks to be in good shape, (that could be ready to fail) , yes replace it if doing any remodeling before it breaks. Tapping with a mallet can break it you will see when you start taking it apart. I have seen remnants inside but not in use I should say.


Fluorescent light wont work after replacing starter and bulb

There is also a ballast that can go bad. try turning off the power and removing the starter, then clean the contacts for the bulbs. sometimes there is corrosion or oxide buildup stopping the flow of electricity. However most newer lights no longer have starters it's built into the ballast, So I'm guessing this is an older fixture and that makes the probability of a bad ballast much higher. be aware that the starter can contain high voltages like a capacitor. do not attempt cleaning without removing the starter and turning off the power.


Can I run constant power and a three-way switch with three conductors?

There is a way but it is no longer acceptable by code. The reason is the method used will constantly flip the polarity of the hot and neutral lines to the light making either wire and lamp socket parts hot depending on the switches. Edit: This method is dangerous for this reason. The lamp socket shell, which is always supposed to be neutral, can become hot creating a shock or electrocution hazard.

If you can, run a fourth wire. It can be any color save for green and white. I'd go with blue. Make the red and blue the three way leads and let the black stay live the whole time.

Or, Consider a motion detector and leave the red wire disconnected.

Or, Use the red wire for a light only controlled from the house.


Is it bad to turn off the water while on vacation?

Nothing bad should happen and it's not an irrational thing to do.

Turn the main valve slowly (both when turning off and on) to avoid possible water hammer effect that could stress pipe connections.

For the same reason, turn taps in the house on slowly when bleeding air after you turn the main supply back on. Start from the taps lowest down and closest to the main valve and work your way away and up.

IP cameras are a cheap way to keep an eye on your house while you're away for extended periods. I use old android phones with an app that sends alerts for sound and movement, it really helps with peace of mind and enjoying vacations.


Is it an easy task to replace a wall thermostat?

Replacing a thermostat is trivial, and similar to changing a light switch.  Disconnect the two wires coming from the furnace/boiler, then reconnect them to the new thermostat.  Turn off power to the furnace/boiler first.

A programmable thermostat saves fuel and money because it can be programmed to lower the temperature when you sleep or are at work.

It doesn't matter which brand you pick, but most of them have horrible user interfaces, worse than old VCRs and clock radios.


How can I correct the slope of a marble shower sill?

This is a tough one. There is no easy way to remedy your problem. The best way would be to remove and replace the tiles properly. If in fact the tiles are real marble, you can grind them to create the proper angle and slowly refinish the surface by stepping down grits and finally getting to a wet polish grit of 2400. That is actually impracticable for a DIY if you don't have the equipment and materials to do it.  If it were me, I'd remove a couple of tiles and reset them to fix your drainage problem. A couple of hacks with a hammer, scrape off some of the thinset, replace the tiles with a little premix thinset, regrout, wait a couple of days, seal the grout and your done. The actual labor time may be only a couple of hours, even though you have to wait a bit to use the shower again.


The stench is certainly—due to your hot-weather-only mention—due to condensate dripping where it shouldn't.  While the majority seems to make it into the drip pan where it is safely pumped away, some condensate may splatter into the filter, plenum, and/or ducts where it activates dormant bacteria.  Also the "return" refrigerant line may well be cold enough to create condensate on its surface and drip to bad places.

I would start by taking a good look around the evaporator and air filter.  Temporarily remove the filter and see (smell) if the stench ceases.  Wipe down all surfaces around there (while the air handler is "off").  Maybe even spray everything with a 100% white vinegar or 5% bleach solution.

Also look at the evaporator itself:  is it partially blocked?  Does it look clean?  What about the edges which don't "work" as hard in not-so-hot weather?  Cleaning it requires great care not to block it further (by fin folding), but a hand-held spray bottle of water can gently work wonders in many cases.

As for earplugs in the ducts:  My wife sometimes uses them to get to sleep; they easily fall out during the night and travel surprisingly far by morning—either onto the floor or between the sheets toward the feet.  If there is a floor register within a few feet of the bed, I would not be surprised if they rolled right on down there.


The procedure described is accurate.

My advice:

Hire your plumber (or a different plumber, if yours doesn't have the equipment) to inspect the drain with a camera to confirm that the trap is the only part of the drain that is damaged. You don't want to dig up the trap only to find later that there are additional issues and you don't want to do "exploratory surgery".

If you wanted custom candlesticks you would not hire a butcher or baker, you would hire a candlestick maker. Have a tile professional give you a bid on the job, for re-tiling and repairing (or replacing) the shower pan and tile, explain the reason and have him/her include excavation and replacement of the trap and drain assembly in the bid.

Done correctly you can just replace the floor and lower wall tiles (the "pan"); most folks choose a contrasting or complementary color and tile style and it looks ok. Be advised that this involves some waterproofing steps and it is not a simple job. Tile pros  are usually very competent with the plumbing associated with the shower; they know best how to set the trap and drain assembly to ensure that it is at the correct height for the finished tile surface. Have them include everything in the bid.

Alternatively, have your plumber give a bid on just repairing/replacing the trap with it already chipped out for him/her by the tile contractor. The plumber should work with the tile contractor to ensure the drain and stuff will be correct.

Note: prices for services are off topic here. Always hire through personal references, always hire reputable licensed contractors, always get multiple bids (it's ok to be honest and tell potential service providers that you are getting multiple bids).

P.S.- I live in So Cal and had my entire sewer main dug up and replaced (6' deep X 50' long) for $6,000...


Dark (damp) spots on concrete basement floor

I have had issues with small springs under slabs, yes the dark spot is moisture. The tough thing if it is always there most sealers need the pad to be dry to seal properly. I have had really good luck on several of my own homes with 2 part epoxy applying in late summer. The worst place I would pull gallons of water out of my dehumidifier, once coated with 2 part epoxy paint their was hardly any moisture in the air being removed. The concrete has a high ph so mold is usually not a problem but in an older home the ph may be low or ~8 (when fresh 12-15). But mold in not usually a problem on a clean pad.


Why can I receive low band VHF on one tv but not another?

Inside each TV is a tuner that separates individual channels from your antenna signal. Some tuners are better than others in tuning in channels that are either too weak, too strong, too noisy, frequency range etc.

If your TVs are different brands, from different years and sometimes different models from the same manufacturer, chances are that they use different tuner circuitry and one is simply better than the other at picking up that channel.

If your tv has the ability to view signal information then try to see what's different in that channel that might be causing the problem.


I'm not sure why you have 3 switches, and only 2 12/2 cables. But I'll give it a stab anyway.

The fan unit should have

1 Red wire.
1 Black wire.
1 Blue wire.
2 White wires.
1-3 Green or Bare wires.

The red wire in the unit should control the heat, so you'll hook the black from one switch to the red wire of the unit, and the white wire from the same cable to the white wire for the heater.

Next because you only have one more 12/2 cable from the switch bank, your light and fan will have to be controlled by the same switch. So you'll connect the black wire from the switch to both the black and blue wires on the unit, then the white wire from the same cable to the white wire for the fan/light.

If you want the other light to come on with the light/fan, hook the black wire to the light in with the black/blue wires on the unit, and the white wire to the light in with the white wire at the unit.

WARNING

These instructions are for a typical installation, your situation may vary. Wire colors may vary from unit to unit, consult the manufacturers documentation for proper wiring diagram. Contact an Electrician before proceeding.


recessed light only works with halogen bulb?

It may be a dimensional issue.

Incandescent/halogen typically have a long narrow stem.  CFLs put a pudgy power converter module right at the bottom. Some LEDs unnecessarily do the same since CFLs do.

Often the socket proper is recessed behind a shield or something.  When you're screwing in a CFL, it grabs a couple of threads then the power converter strikes and binds against that shield. It feels like the socket has bottomed out snug, when actually the bottom contacts are not touching.   And the bulb just doesn't turn on!

Check out your fixtures, but I bet that's what is going on.  You can change the fixture, alter the fixture, or shop smartly for long-neck LED "bulbs".

You probably won't find them in CFL, nor should you look.  CFLs are entirely obsolete. What's more, CFLs are particularly unsuited for aimed PAR lighting since they make a blurry clump of non-directional light which cannot be focused via reflectors or lenses.  LEDs are the ideal case, as they inherently make a cone of light which is easily focused further via optics, which are near 100% efficient.


There's definitely a water-ingress problem here (or was).  That green corrosion on the copper wires is very severe.  So your much bigger problem is structural damage to the building (or black mold) due to what else the water has been up to.

However in the meantime, those loose wires are dangerous, and the remaining visible bare wire is probably shot.  Even if the sockets were replaceable, it doesn't look like there's enough wire length left to splice to them.  So the fixture is shot.

When you buy a new fixture -  we're not talking a lot of money here - either buy a pure-LED fixture that does not have replaceable bulbs (this will be more money), or buy one that is open on the sides and allows airflow to the bulbs.  That way you can upgrade to LED and save a ton off your electric bill.

If swapping a fixture is too much for you, any competent handyman can handle the task.  To give you a sense of the difficulty, most towns that require permits don't require a permit for "swapping a light fixture", as it is considered to be a trivial repair by electrical standards.


Disassemble and remove bathtub–shower combination

You will need to cut the drywall away from the edge of the tub and surround.  The drywall should overlap a flange of the tub/surround.  That should expose the screws and clips holding the tub and surround to the studs.  If you are lucky, the installer didn't also use glue to attach the surround to the studs as well.

Found link to install instructions.  http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/cf/cf84df47-d48f-4392-80e4-79ec296343ad.pdf


What are the pros and cons of a cultured marble tub?

I have a cultured marble kitchen sink so I guess my experience is relevant. It is noiseless (unlike a stainless steel one would), looks as cools as a stealth bomber (much cooler that a stainless steel one would), can be washed no-problem.

Surely there're drawbacks - I always fear dropping a heavy fryinng pan onto it and crash it this way and obviously I remember to never use any acid-based compounds on it. IMO acid-based compounds can be easily avoided and fear of crashing is mostly subjective - likely something heavy needs to be dropped from a reasonable height to cause real damage. Other than that  I don't see any drawbacks so far.


Old furnace with no "C" terminal for wifi thermostat

The O terminal is C in your system

Because we know the black wire going off to the air conditioner is our Y wire (as it's connected to the black wire from the thermostat's Y terminal, according to what you have said and the photo's so far), the remaining wire in that cable must be a C wire, since you mentioned that there are only two wires going off to the outdoor unit.  So, we follow that wire to where it nuts in with the white wire going off to the O terminal and the brown wire off to the rest of the furnace, and that is the point where we tap C at.  Or in other words, in your system, O is what they call what the rest of us call C.


The first problem here is the "100W" claim, which you here treat as the reference standard from which to compare.  Actually, it's the most dubious claim of the bunch, and has never been reliable.  I suspect it's a common mistake for people to fixate on the "100W" number since it's a unit they're familiar with, and that's why manufacturers toss it on the box.  It's time to get familiar with lumens.  Seriously.

I went ahead and edited into your question their claimed lumens in italics.  You can now see how different they are, in fact.  Even the prices fall more in line once you are looking at lumens per dollar.

Now that you see lm/w numbers, you can see where Energy Star doesn't mean a whole lot when everything blows the doors off the mandated efficiency numbers, even no-name house-brands that took a ride on a slow boat.

The bigger issue is life-cycle quality. A lot of consumers have market blindness. If it's marketed aggressively at their favorite discount big-box, people perceive them as quality simply because they are plentiful.  Nothing could be farther than the truth.

A big factor is losing brightness over time. The raw LED emitter business is dominated by 5 or 6 large companies who aggressively cross-license the technologies to make LEDs last a long time. More on that in this SE answer.  It's about who makes the internal LED emitter chips, and less whose name is on the consumer product.  (though obviously a Cree lamp will have Cree emitters, a Philips lamp Philips emitters etc.)  You can look for blogs and Youtubes where electronics geeks do teardowns of the various brands.

The other factor is the quality of the electronic driver circuit - and cost is everything here.  When the driver fails, the LED goes dark entirely.  Well-marketed products are built to a price point - and that means cutting corners in the driver, where failures will not emerge for 1-5 years, after the warranty has run.  And people get hoodwinked by what's probably a house brand "Euri" (did not check the Japanese meaning, clearly).


The normal solution to this is to trim the lower end of the black part.
Tailpieces are supplied long, and expected to be trimmed to fit. Of course, there are limits to that.
In this case, it looks like the elbow in the black part is going to cause a problem (or be a limit) with that approach. Such is the danger of a deeper sink. You may indeed need to lower the drain entrance into the pipe in the wall, unless you can find a disposer that exits a little bit higher (which would be easier, and possibly cost less.)


What grease should I use for an aftermarket cylinder valve (Moen)

Any "Plumber's Grease" will lubricate the moving parts. Plumber's Grease is silicone based so it wont dissolve in water and it is viscous enough that it will remain were it is applied.


Choosing a Replacement A/C Condenser Fan Motor

Recheck your contactor in the compressor cabinet and make sure it's functioning properly and making contact. A buzzing can mean a bad contactor.

Your best bet for a replacement motor is to bring it into an AC parts and supply company or an electric motor supply place. They will match the RPM's, shaft size, rotation, frame size, wiring harness,ETC. Bring the motor with you. In many cases they can test the motor for you. Do yourself a favor and don't try to replace it online. They will tell you it will fit, and believe me, it won't.

You might want to consider replacing the contactor since you'll be shopping for a motor anyway. They're only about $15 bucks


Must we install a "moisture, not vapor" barrier, room-side, on an insulated above-grade portion of an exterior basement wall

To me, “moisture barrier” is located on the exterior of a wall and “vapor barrier” is located on the interior.
If you are not sure there is a moisture barrier, you’d better check because without it you’ll have dryrot, mold and structural decay from rain leaking into the wall.
Vapor barrier keeps VAPOR from moving through the wall from the warm side to the cool side. Generally in the U.S. (including where you live) that means from the inside to the outside. (However, that can change at different times during the year.)
Vapor is a problem when it turns from vapor to moisture (water).  This occurs at the “Dew Point”.  I’ll let you Google dew point to learn about that, but basically it’s when the vapor moves from the warm moist side to the cooler side and turns into water. Walls are not vented like attics are vented. So, it’s important to keep vapor out of the walls.
Obviously if you have a lot of vapor on the interior of your house (basement rooms), then you’ll have more of a problem. If your basement is “dry”, you may not need a vapor barrier.
Recently we’ve learned a lot about the movement of vapor in walls. We use to just think in terms of winter. Now we know that if you live where it’s warm and moist on the exterior and you cool the interior, then the vapor moves in the opposite direction and you do not want a vapor barrier because it will “trap” any moisture in the wall causing mold...probably not dryrot because there isn’t enough moisture to do that kind of damage.
In northern environments, they use a plastic sheeting because the temperature never changes enough to have the vapor change directions. Likewise, in the south, they never use vapor barriers because the exterior is almost always warmer than the interior (due to air conditioning).
I live in a similar environment as you, but on the west coast. I never use a vapor barrier because 1) I don’t have that big of a vapor problem, and 2) I want the moisture to escape when the season changes.
However, you are different. When I paint my interior walls, that provides a substantial vapor barrier. You are going to install boards on the walls, so vapor will easily enter your walls AND you don’t have a vapor barrier on your insulation. Because of that, I’d use a vapor barrier. (No matter how good you install the vapor barrier, (even taping the joints and edges) vapor will still get in the wall through outlets, switches, etc. )
Your new mini-split system is good, because it will “move air” and help dry the room. The dehumidifier is essential and you should keep it running year-round.
NOTE: SHAME ON SE FOR CLOSING THIS QUESTION ...THE QUESTION DOES NOT NEED MORE FOCUS


How can I run a coaxial cable into an existing single gang electrical outlet?

Have you thought about trying to achieve the same result without running wires?  Assuming you're using a cable (or satellite) box of some kind (and your TV doesn't have a built-in cable card), you could use something like this:

That would give you a standard RCA connection from your satellite/cable box to your TV.  There are other options for other connection types; e.g. this one for HDMI (although it gets spendy).

Failing that, how about just using a quarter-round cable cover around the edge of the room?


Why is the sump pump inlet draining directly onto the float?

Totally not a problem - if it was a problem, the sump would be overflowing and you'd be asking about the flood.

The force of a stream of water coming in from a side pipe to a sump is quite minor compared with the force of the collected water pushing up on the float.

Assume that it DID affect operation - once the water had risen to the level of the pipe, the incoming water would be flowing straight in OVER the float, and the float would not be affected. But I bet it never even gets close to that point, in reality.

If you like, take a 5 gallon bucket or a hose and dump/run water directly onto the float and watch what actually happens.