Emerson Liebert Air Conditioner Fan Runs Abnormal

Depending on your specific equipment setup, you may have a variable speed condenser fan, variable speed compressor, or both. With a variable speed compressor and condenser, the system would ideally maintain stable superheat and suction pressure (effectively controlled by the Siemens superheat controller) and would maintain a stable temperature differential across the condenser. If the compressor modulates to meet the demand on the coil, the discharge pressure should remain reasonably stable.

I have seen in refrigeration and HVAC that a technician will often override the compressor and/or condenser modulation (either VFD or ECM controller) and put them "in hand" or into fixed speed mode. The first thing you should check is to see if the controllers are able to modulate speeds; if they have been put into override, set them back into auto control.

Whether the compressor is variable speed or not, if the compressor is being cycled on/off too rapidly and the condenser controller settings are off, it may be driving up and down rapidly to accommodate the fluctuating load from the compressor. It may also be tripping on current overload, as already mentioned in another answer. The following assumes that the condenser fan is not having electrical issues.

Observe the compressor behavior in conjunction with the condenser's cycling: is the compressor cycling off and on with the condenser? If so, verify that your compressor controller settings are not trying to adjust to changing suction pressure too rapidly (slow down the ramp time, increase the proportional band, etc.) Regardless of whether the compressor is fixed or variable speed, it should be running for 5-10 minutes at a time (at a minimum) in cold weather; any more frequently and the compressor is short cycling.

If the compressor is short cycling, correct this and verify that your condenser controls are no longer having issues.

If the compressor is not short cycling (or if you have fixed the issue and are still having condenser fan problems), take a look at the condenser controller settings. Verify that the set points are reasonable (i.e. a 20-30F, sometimes 40F temperature differential over your condensing medium is typical for HVAC systems; refrigeration typically runs between 10-20F). Also check the controller settings (proportional band, ramp time) for the condenser cycling. Like the compressor, the condenser should be running for longer periods of time, but it will not be running during extended periods when the compressor is off.

Verify your evaporator settings, too. The Siemens superheat controller should be trying to maintain a specific leaving air temperature temperature (typically 55F) with a temperature differential across the coil (anywhere from 5-30F) with 10-20F superheat at the outlet. When the thermostat sends a cooling signal to the unit, the compressor and condenser should cycle on, and the superheat controller should maintain a stable evaporating temperature.

If you are still having issues after verifying that the controllers are set correctly, begin checking the temperatures and pressures. Verify that the condenser pressure is somewhere between 20-40 degrees F over your ambient outdoor temperature (assuming the condenser is outdoors; if it is condensing in another conditioned space for some reason or using a fluid cooler, substitute that temperature for outdoor air temperature). Use a refrigerant pressure-temperature chart (US, SI) to check your discharge pressure versus the condensing temperature. If your ambient temperature is 90F and you have a 10F temperature differential (TD), your discharge pressure should be around 225 psig from the compressor (which corresponds to 100F). Do the same for the evaporator: the evaporator inlet pressure should be approximately equal to the condensing pressure and the evaporator outlet pressure should correspond to the evaporating temperature. With a 10F TD across the evaporator (i.e. 45-55F), the evaporating pressure should be around 70psig. The evaporator outlet temperature should be in excess of this value; the difference between the temperature that corresponds to the evaporator outlet pressure (measured using a transducer or pressure gauge) and the actual evaporator outlet temperature (measured using a temperature sensor) is known as the superheat. The superheat should match the commanded superheat on the controller.

If you are still having issues after verifying all of the above, post back with additional information about the system (model numbers) and the pressure/temperature readings from the controllers.

One final thing to consider: R-407C, being a blend of different refrigerants, will exhibit what is called "glide." What this means for you is that at a given pressure, you can have two observe two different temperatures (dew and bubble) depending on how much of the refrigerant is liquid and how much is vapor. This can cause problems with your controllers if they are expecting a specific temperature/pressure setting, e.g. you have P=20psig at the bubble temperature (when the liquid begins to vaporize) instead of the dew temperature (when the vapor begins to condense to liquid). The P-T chart I linked to above indicates whether the number is a dew or bubble temperature. The concept makes more sense when you look at a pressure-enthalpy diagram (I can't post a third link; Google "Dupont R-407C pressure enthalpy diagram"). Note that inside the saturation dome, the isotherms (lines of constant temperature) have a slope between the left and right sides of the dome. For single-component refrigerants, the line is flat/there is no glide.


subpanel tied to main thru 50 amp double. One 20 amp outside receptacle. Can I put another 20 amp on the subpanel?

If the subpanel was installed correctly You can run the two twenty amp circuits. They will have to be GFCI protected.


Do I glue luxury vinyl flooring ON or UNDER angled, metal threshold that transitions exterior to interior kitchen floor?

I would remove the transition strip and place the new flooring down and put the transition piece back on. If you glue something on top of the transition piece, it will be a trip hazard and will, in a short time, come loose.


Proper thickness for concrete "flagstones"

Typical pre-cast pavers are about 2" thick, so that's a reasonable experiential datapoint. I've got a few of those in the 16" square size that have been through 11 winters without cracking in a pretty serious winter area.
You can get fibers to mix into your concrete to help reenforce it - 2" is too thin for using steel reenforcement. Ensuring that your mix is not too wet when placed and then kept quite wet for a month after it's set will help ensure you get all the strength your concrete is capable of giving.
You could also pour a 4" steel-reenforced slab on gravel base, and just do patterning/dying on the top surface for the flagstone "effect" - products are sold for this exact purpose (or crews to do so can be hired, preferably after reviewing jobs they have completed.)


Is it ok to use a shower that just has the backerboard installed and not yet tiled?

Given that you have a pan that is finished and given that your walls have either a membrane or a painted on membrane that is waterproof you could very lightly use the shower.  I would never endorse this if I was doing the job but if you are doing it yourself, then go ahead.  Make the showers short/light and make sure that it is bone dry before tiling.  (This is all given you have a waterproof membrane installed - the answer is no if you will be showering right on the backerboard.)


How do I make bevel cuts to form a ring with 2x4's?

15˚ (360 / 12 / 2) on each side of each 2x4.


Hands down, Stainless Steel. The hardest thing to dent out of all the choices, it has a good deal of spring where nothing else does. It won't turn ugly nor ever need paint & comes in a number of wall thicknesses, get as thick as you're willing to afford. All of the same profile choices are available, something with a face profile will dramatically increase the durability. SS will hold up to ladders & everything else the best.

Since you've noticed an overflow or possibly a Run-over issue with your current gutters, then definitely go up another size...an inch more in both height & width. Also, make sure your current gutters aren't more than an inch below the roofing edge, & that your roofing edge is no further than halfway across the gutter width. These would be the cause of Run-over. Don't skimp on screws, hangers or downspouts either. You'll never ever have to replace a single thing.


connect 3 inch ABS pipe to only 0.5 inch exposed pipe

No, it is not. If you read the manufacturers' instruction on the ABS cement it says to seat the pipe completely in the hub.

Now... I have cheated the above instruction on more than one occasion but never to that extent. If you are careful, gluing to 1/2" of pipe will probably not leak immediately. The problem is that the strength of the joint will be compromised and any movement (due to soil movement, expansion/contraction of pipe with temp changes, etc.) could cause failure.

I say you should "bite the bullet" and cut back to the next available spot where you have some pipe to work with. You will likely have to rebuild that whole junction area.


Wiring a ceiling fan to a possible non grounded line

The two twisted copper bare wires are the ground. You can take the green wire, strip some more insulation off it, and connect it to them with a wire nut. Enjoy your new fan.
Yes, the fan becomes grounded by attaching it to the mounting bracket.


Why do I have Insulation in internal wall between two rooms?

It was probably installed to reduce sound transmission. It's common to see materials that are more dense than fiberglass used as acoustic insulation, but fiberglass is used as well.

The sounds of water running and being flushed, drawers being closed, and other... human activities is often something folks wish to reduce in areas designed for serenity, such as a loft.


OK, stop.  Put it back the way you found it; it was that way for a reason.

Since you don't even know what LOAD does exactly, you don't really have a reason to want to use the terminals (other than "gotta try random stuff til it works").  Don't ever do that with electrical -- you will find many combinations that will work (mission accomplished) and will create a lingering problem that will kill you.

Your first problem with this GFCI happened because you attached the wires to LOAD instead of LINE. That was a mistake from removing the warning tape unnecessarily (or getting one with the warning tape on the wrong terminals; that has happened).

Your second problem was because the downline wiring is not compatible with a GFCI, which may be why the original installer used pigtails. Whatever: It's not your problem today; you're not here to chase that problem.  Be good to fix it someday, though.

Now, you said you hooked it up exactly as you found it. I'm guessing you were looking at the physical dimensions, e.g. which side has the ground.  That throws people all the time, because it's just not consistent among devices.  You need the LINE side (which means don't take the warning tape off the LOAD side).

If that doesn't work, either this GFCI is defective, or there's a line problem upstream of the GFCI, e.g. the original problem was not this GFCI.


Yeah, that plan seems fine. Three #1Al THHN wires should get the job done, and will fit comfortably in 1-1/4" EMT pipe.  You don't need a ground wire in EMT, IMC or rigid conduit.

You sometimes hear of neutrals being downsized compared to the hots.  You  can't generally do that with feeders, but especially, you can't do it when pulling 2 of 3 phases of 3-phase "wye".  Here, neutral does not handle only differential current, and it gets a real workout - neutral flow can be as much as the hots. (but not more).


One outlet, two hots, one neutral, no power to the other outlets

Here is the probable answer: the “hot” white wire isn’t. It’s the neutral from your downstream outlets. It looks hot because you have something plugged in that is conducting voltage from its hot wire. If you unplug (or completely turn off) everything plugged into the non-working outlets, it should no longer appear hot.

Try connecting the two white wires together on the neutral side of the outlet.

In the future, always label wires before disconnecting if anything looks at all funny.


Tips and advice for repairing front yard stairs cheaply?

I am not a mason, but my guess is this will be difficult to do it well. My advice is even more suspect since I cannot see the stairs themselves and the extent of the problem.

A thin veneer over some faces and a thick one in other places will chip and crack, especially if water ever gets in and freezes. But the major problem is the existing cracks. Those cracks may come from settling/frost heaves, etc. That will leave this new layer prone to the same problem. In order to prevent this, the new layer would need to be reinforced to strengthen it, and it would need to be thick enough to be able to resist cracking when one half of the stairs tries to move.

Do these stairs rest on bare ground? Or do they have a proper foundation underneath to avoid frost heaves? My guess is the cracking suggests they are moving around with the weather.

A poor fix that fails in a couple of years is worse than doing it right the first time.

The best solution probably is to remove them and put new stairs in.


Can I use engineered I joists as studs in a wall?

This is a bad idea to try and build your own I joists.  Often the building codes will defer to the manufacturers specifications for engineered materials like I joists, engineered beams and also engineered OSB board.  This is done because every manufacturer is different and because these manufacturers generally have actual accredited engineers that are certified and vetted who test these things in a methodical and proper way.

A small shed, on a residential property, is still considered a seperate structure, and as such is subject to your municipalities building codes, zoning requirements, by-laws and building permits.  A review of your plan or an inspection likely will not pass and code enforcement may require you to tear down the structure if they feel it is unsafe.  Inability to comply with code enforcement can result in loss of your occupancy permit for the residence.

Code aside, I think even using engineered I joists for studs wouldn't be the best idea.  While I joists are okay for hanging drywall on a ceiling, a wall tends to have a lot more nails, screws and anchors run into it for everything from pictures, TV's hanging on lags, etc...  With drywall, the screws will be run into the sides of the I joist where they will not damage the OSB in the middle.  Running a nail or screw into the middle of an I joist greatly damages the integrity of the joist, and there would always be the possibility that somebody would attempt this and damage the stud. For a shed I am thinking about possibly trying to hang pegboard on the wall as an example.

Furthermore I can't even imagine how one can safely frame for a window or door with I joists.  What is the proper way to nail the jack and king stud together?  What if the wall is load bearing?  Engineered I joists are tested when they are laid out on a span, not supporting load vertically.

Just use dimensional lumber, or purchase pre fabricated engineered I joists for supporting the load on a floor per the manufacturers specifications.


Dimmer rotation span wider than the light intensity span

Your LED's are not capable of a full 360 turn on the dimmer switch. LED's require a minimum voltage to pass thru to light them up. Your dimmer allows a much lower voltage thru than the LED driver can convert. One way to test this, is to put a regular incandescent bulb in the socket(s) and try your dimmer switch. I am not aware of any LED bulbs yet, that can dim so low that they barely shine.


What's the right type of lumber to construct a small TV platform?

I'm not sure of the size of the stand, but you want to make sure your platform is bigger than the stand by enough on each side so that it is stable. 9" wide seems a bit small, given the size of the two TV stands I have, but yours may be different. You may consider securing the platform to your AV center, as well as secure the TV stand to the platform, to reduce the risk of the TV tipping over.

Framing lumber

As for the wood to use, framing lumber and studs are thicker, yes, but the quality is generally lower - they're typically covered up by drywall or tile, after all. They are also almost always pine, a softwood. Since you're going to paint it, looks may not make a difference, but that lumber also tends to have more knots and it can warp more. Additionally, and perhaps most crucially, 2x lumber comes with rounded edges. You'd probably want to square up the edges before gluing to eliminate that rounded edge.

Appearance boards

"Appearance boards" are 1x wood, typically some sort of hardwood (poplar, oak, or aspen), although they do sell pine as well. They're obviously thinner than the 2x wood (half as thick), but will stand up to use better and will generally be flatter and less warped. The edges are also square, so there's no annoying rounded corner to deal with. With some screws, you'll likely be able to get a decently flat glue up, especially if you pick out flat wood to begin with.

With both of those options, though, you're looking at buying 10" wide wood (actual 9 1/4"), which can be quite expensive. Alternatively, you can glue two thinner boards together, but that would require jointing the two edges. If you've got a jointer, router, or table saw, you can do it, but I'm guessing you don't.

Plywood

A third option, which you may have overlooked, is to use (furniture grade) plywood. It comes in 3/4" thickness (other thicknesses available as well), so you would need 5 or 6 layers to get your 4". However, it comes in 4'x8' sheets (both the blue and orange stores carry them for about $45 per sheet; other sizes available, too, as I don't think you'd need a whole 4x8 sheet), so the width is not a problem. Plywood is extremely flat, so the layering is not a problem. The edges have a banded look, but when painted they may not look much different than the rest.


Why won't my circular saw blade tighten on the spindle?

Make a shim out of thin cardboard and place it between the inner blade washer and the blade. The blades they're making these days are thinner than the older blades and some of the older saws have to be shimmed in order to prevent blade slippage.


Yes, you should be concerned. Cracking like this is caused by movement (the structure has moved, such as settled) and this type of cracking is unusual. This needs to be reviewed in person by a structural engineer who can look at the particulars of your situation. This is not something that you can get a good answer for here on this or other sites.
FWIW, I'm a structural engineer. I'd be interested in what they have to say about it


Vapour barrier for basement garage ceiling

The vapor barrier goes towards the heated size of the home, which in your case will be up between the joists against the floor.


Construction defect in basement slab under stairs in crawl space-how do I fix this issue

You cannot "make sure it does not crack again", all you can do is your best effort and hope it does not. I believe a concrete expert would tell you to drill into the sides of the existing slab and epoxy reinforcing bar stock in to "tie-in/pin" your patch to the existing slab.


Is it okay that the earth wire is exposed when installing an outdoor security light?

Assuming that it's twin and earth wiring (which it sounds like from your description), yes the earth wire in the cable is typically uninsulated once the outer sheath has been removed. It's usual to use a piece of yellow and green sleeving to slip over the earth wire to provide basic insulation.

I'd recommend that you run the outer sheath of the cable into the junction box, or you could likely run into water ingress issues in the future.

As to why it's exposed, I'd hazard a guess that it's a cost saving measure to avoid the additional insulation. Except in a fault condition, there should be no current in or potential on the earth conductor, so it doesn't need the same level of protection as the line conductors.


How can I join two pieces of wood at 90 degrees?

How do I connect [1x4 wood] together at 90 degrees while maintaining a solid connection?

If you can obtain a hand-saw (e.g. tenon-saw/back-saw), some sandpaper and some wood glue, you can make lap-joints. I find they are the easiest way for me to make rigid joints in wood.

To join wood the other way, for a strong joint I'd try a simple finger joint (box joint)

  at best I can get a hand drill, a jigsaw and some vices

I find jigsaws are a good way to make wobbly uneven cuts in sheets of wood. Maybe that's just me. Chewing through wood with your bare teeth is not much worse. A back-saw and a miter-box might be more useful to you if you can obtain them.


You're meant to install a skirtboard along the wall, cut to fit the stairs.
Here's a picture from Building Stairs by Andy Engel (I feel like he should hire me to market his book with how often I recommend it to people) showing installing a skirtboard onto the wall.


A few suggestions.

None of these include removing material from the blades (because after doing so you would indeed have a balance problem).

Forgive this one, but are you certain the blades are installed correctly? The fan indeed exhausts, when it's running?
In my experience, "replacement" motors, even under identical part numbers, might be subtly different from their originals. If this new one is slightly shallower, then you've done nothing wrong. Maybe check them against each other, and then cut yourself some slack.

(The fact that your fan isn't mounted dead vertically could cause you to have a problem that the manufacturer's quick & dirty testing failed to detect. Because gravity.)

Those bent-sheet brackets are a primitive thing. They're likely to have gone asymmetrical. Maybe put the palm of your hand against the motor's base, and press firmly to bend them, just a little.
Unless, if I understand you, the position on the blade assembly on the motor shaft is indeed adjustable. If so, then why did you bother with the washers? Side it on out!

None of the above explains why the problem didn't appear when you tested it. Only with a hot attic. Difference in air density? Behavior of the motor's lubrication? Or (as already suggested) a loose mounting screw?

Good luck. Let us know what works for you!


How do I lower a cold air return from the ceiling for a basement rental?

We did this in college with corrugated boxes and duct tape.

The ideal solution is to get a ceiling fan to help mix the air more.


How should I remove tiles and backer board from my bathroom?

If you are removing the backer board, protect the tub (tape plastic over it and perhaps also use something like moving blankets or cardboard to pad it against impact) and use a crowbar and/or sledgehammer (with care not to go through the other side of the wall nor to damage the tub) to gain access for the crowbar to pry the backer-board off the studs. Or break it next to the studs, and then break what's left off the screws (if it was screwed in place), and then locking pliers to get the screws out.

If the backer board is not defective, and you are not removing the wall itself, consider the same sort of tub protection and using a wide, flat chisel to break off the stubborn tiles, followed by a "rubbing brick" to clean off the remaining thinset.


Electrical Outlet/Switch Cover Vanity Plate Screw Issues

t's the slot in the head of the plate screw that makes unscrewing the screws a hassle! I always curse slot headed screws when I encounter them!
The trick to use that makes the screws unscrew with no problems is to clean out the slot of the screw head. Using a utility knife slice through the dried paint that is clogging the slot. It may take a couple of passes with the knife blade, but it will clear the paint quickly.
Pay attention to your digits (fingers) location when slicing.
The screwdriver tip now has a deeper straighter slot to turn against. No more slipping.


Flashing EPDM roofing up a short arched vertical portion?

I would run your EDPM sheet right up the back side of that arch and onto the top surface using the same adhesive you use to hold it down to the flat surface. I'd pull the membrane about 1/2 way across the horizontal top of the arch. Then I'd use the same flashing you're going to use for the sides to flash over the vertical edge of the arch.
Note: I'm not a roofer, this is just me "thinking logically", so wait for some confirmation before doing this.
Also, I'd suggest that while it might look nice, the wooden planter isn't doing your roof leaks any good, and it will most definitely not be good for the rubber membrane you're about to lay down.


How to keep bird away from leaving their droppings on the deck

I have great luck with a motion activated sprinkler Something like this keeps the geese out of my pool, It should work for your deck also. Cleaning the stains may take a strong deck cleaner but not knowing the type of paint I would hose it off and try a little dish soap with a scrub brush to clean it off.


Trying to find window manufacturer from sticker on vinyl window

If you know who the home builder was you may be able to get in touch with them.  Generally they will know which company they went with...if that isnt possible depending on the age of the window you may be able to take it to a builder's supply or big box store and get an answer.

All that said replacing a window pane is generally pretty easy and most hardware/big box stores will cut the glass to size for you.  If it is double pane that could be a little more tricky.


Does a neutral wire need to be run from a switch to the light?

A church is a commercial facility so use caution on advice received on this site most are not familiar with the unique requirements to commercial construction. Could you provide a photo of the wires entering the box?
Also how many lights and the type?
there may be a contactor controlling multiple runs I use 3 phase contactors to control 3ea 20 amp strings on 120/240v services.
there are timers that need no neutral check out an intermatic STO1 they run in the mid 30$ range and the timer is battery powered so no neutral is needed and power bumps don’t affect it. The battery last about 2 years.
The nice thing about this timer is it is astrometric or you can turn on a feature to turn on at sunset and off at sun rise it updates itself based on your location. I use them at my plant to turn the yard lights on at 3am then off at sunset, on again at sun set then off at 1030 pm or the time they shut down for that day then they don’t turn on for a day that we never work would be great for a church where scheduled services and weekly Bible studies or choir practices. If you need it on when it’s not programmed tap it and it will stay on until tapped again or the next scheduled off time. I drive small (15 & 20 amp circuits) with this timer and if the loads are larger drive contactors (power relays).
Depending on the area and construction type you may have conduit that’s why I asked for a photo and a neutral could be pulled in conduit in commercial facilities. buildings with occupancy requirements are normally wired with conduit.


I would use something like a long pan-head Tapcon (maybe a 2.25") with a stainless steel spacer. The Tapcon can grip the masonry, and 1" stainless steel spacers are fairly ubiquitous at your local big box hardware store.

Assuming you don't have a hammer drill, buy a normal drill masonry bit. These tend to work better going into brick rather than the masonry, but I would experiment and see which goes in better. If the Tapcon has trouble gripping the hole, break a toothpick in half and stick it in before putting the screw in.


What is the proper way to route ground from semiflush mount panel to grounding rod?

No need for a j-box you can just fire caulk the hole. Be sure and strap down the ground wire. Ground rods should be driven completely into the ground, most AHJ let you leave a few inches above the soil to make the ground connection.


How do I connect my whole house humidifier to my furnace?

You've asked several questions here.

Checking if it's 24V AC

First of all, by far the vast majority of furnaces use 24VAC for control wiring. However, it's always better to be sure rather than make assumptions, so there are several ways to do this:

Look at the spec sheet or manual for your model
Look for labels on the control board, probably where the transformer lines come in
Look for labels on the transformer itself
Use a multimeter to measure between C and R terminals

Update:

Since you mentioned you have a 9GMXT furnace, it has a 24VAC dedicated humidifier terminal. The manual states:

  The 24 VAC HUM terminal is energized when the low pressure closes during a call for heat. [..] Connect a 24 VAC humidifier to the 24 VAC HUM terminal and C screw terminal
  strip on the control board thermostat strip.

It's rated at 0.5 Amps max. The Desert Springs motor is 24VAC 4W (I had to go check on mine) which is 0.17 amps, so it's perfectly fine.

Connecting

In general, by connecting between R and C, the thermostat motor will only have the ability to come on when the furnace is actively heating (it won't come on if the fan is set to 'On' mode, or if the air conditioner is on). Since you have a Humidifier terminal, instead of R you'd connect to that.

You should also connect the humidistat that comes with it in-line with this wire (doesn't matter wire is which) as per the instructions.

Water line

One more note: don't use the saddle valve that came with it (or if you do: install a proper in-line ball valve and never turn the saddle valve's "valve" again). Saddle valves are notoriously bad and will leak after you use them a few times. Better to just buy a valve with a 1/4" compression fitting and use that.

I installed the same humidifier (DS32000) a couple years ago, including the auto-flush valve. It has been working great and I'm very happy with it. It keeps the humidity level very consistent -- though I kind of wish I had an electronic control for it that would adjust based on outside humidity/temperature too (EDIT: I now have this, see below): as it has gotten really cold out in the past few weeks, I've had to turn it down to avoid condensation on the windows.

Each year I use some vinegar to clean out the valve, basin, and drum (tip: I take the curved plastic lid off, turn it upside down, pour in a mixture of half vinegar, half water, then place the drum in it and rotate it every 10 minutes or so until the whole thing is done). Better to do this at the end of the heating season.

EDIT: This year, I installed an Ecobee thermostat and ran an extra wire so it controls the humidifier. It has a setting to automatically regulate humidity based on outside weather (which it gets via internet, not a real sensor, unfortunately), and it has actually worked really well. No more condensation, but it kept the humidity as high as it could. I adjusted it a bit when I first installed it but haven't touched it in months.


Why would a dryer take 4 hours to dry after we cleaned out the vent?

After cleaning the dryer vent you should be seeing shorter drying times per load. A restricted dryer  vent limit's (reduces) the amount of warm, moist air being exhausted; slowing drying time. As already mentioned check again for lint blockage. If the thermostat is defective it will not fully heat-up. Put your hand on the exhaust duct; it should  be warm. Dryers employ a blower to circulate the warmed air. If the blower's drive pulley is loose it can't blow air. If the dryer uses electricity to dry clothes the heating element could be damaged.


Showers in house run cold after 30/45 seconds - Sinks scalding hot?

Wait, there's an expansion tank in the HOT water side?  That's wrong, it's supposed to be on the cold-water side of the hot water heater.  Expansion tanks do not have heaters in them, so the water in them is cold!  Try this theory on for size: You turn on max-hot, until the water runs nice and hot.  The lengthy hot-water pipe from downstairs is now full of hot water.  Then you set it for mixed-warm, which flows a lot more water overall, and reduces system pressure.  What does the expansion tank do?  Equalize to that new pressure - the air in the tank expands, by pushing cold water out of the expansion tank into the "hot" line.  It gets upstairs 30 seconds later.

How do you test this?  First, when it gets cold, touch nothing - just let it keep flowing for 120 more seconds.  See if it goes back to normal if you wait long enough.  If so, I'd blame the expansion tank being on the wrong side.

Or check the tank's temperature - room temperature - then trigger the problem - and shut off everything and run back down and check the tank's temperature again.  If it's warmer, it just ingested some hot water - which means it recently pushed out some cold water.

Otherwise, I'd do some other experiments.  Shut off the cold supply to the shower.  Now if it does the hot-cold bounce, it can't be the mixing valve!  Turn the tub to hot max.  Let it get hot and watch for that bounce.  None? Throw open the sink faucet to COLD and flush the toilet, to simulate the extra flow of setting the shower to "warm".  Watch for the bounce again.  If it still happens, that means the (good) valve isn't getting good hot water.

What would make it suddenly break? Probably something minor upstream that wouldn't affect healthy plumbing. Maybe loose cruft in your piping (probably upstream of the hot water heater). Maybe in street piping.  Maybe the water company changed supply pressure.


Fixing hole in ceiling for recessed light after water damage

There are two issues: support and cosmetics.

For the support, you could remove the can, insert thin, long pieces of wood (something like a paint stirrer) in the space above the lip of the can, overlapping the newly opened area. I would put in two strips, opposite each other.

I would hold them in place by putting screws  upward through the solid area of drywall, one on each end. This should give more body to hold the can in place after filling the gaps.

For cosmetics (and some support around the new strips) I would use a hardening spackle (not taping compound or a lightweight filler) to fill below these new strips and build up the edge around the hole. Then, after drying, sand the whole thing smooth before inserting the can.


Ceiling Fan with light kit and remote on 2 different switches

You can't... Well, you can't use separate switches to control the fan and light, and also use the remote. So you'll have to decide if you want to use two wall switches, or the remote.
The reason that there's only three wires coming out of the fan unit, is because you're only supplying power to the remote module. The remote module then controls the fan and light, depending on what buttons are pressed on the remote control. If you pull out the remote module, you'll find four wires going from it to the fan unit. One wire for neutral, one for ground, one for the lights, and one for the fan.
If you just want to use the remote control.

Connect the ground from the ceiling, to the ground from the remote module in the fan.
Connect the neutral from the ceiling, to the neutral from the remote module in the fan.
Connect the "hot" wire from one of the switches, to the "hot" wire from the remote module in the fan.
Cap off the extra "hot" wire from the other wall switch.

If you want to use two wall switches

Remove the remote module from the fan.
Connect the ground wire from the ceiling, to the ground wire(s) in the fan unit.
Connect the neutral from the ceiling, to the neutral(s) in the fan unit.
Connect the "hot" wire from one of the wall switches, to one of the "hot" wires from the fan unit.
Connect the "hot" wire from the other wall switch, to the other "hot" wire from the fan unit.

If you want to use the remote for the light or fan, and a wall switch for the other. That can also be accomplished, but I'm not going to cover it here.


No hot water, but exhaust blower running continuously

I'm guessing a high temperature switch has failed and needs to be replaced. I'd turn off the fuel source and power until it can be repaired to avoid wearing out the motor.


Should I use caulking or silicone to seal around a new door frame of exterior stucco house?

So... the word "caulking" refers more to its use/application as a linear gap sealer than it does to the material composition; Caulk can be made of most any material (including silicone), it's still called caulk.

Yes, as was your intuition, you need paintable caulk. Some silicone-based caulks are advertised as "paintable", but for myself I am dubious of the claim because I fear that over time the bond of paint-to-caulk will fail. For paintable applications I use a high-quality paintable latex caulk.


How much gap to leave between basement concrete floor and bottom of drywall board?

Drywall should definitely not touch concrete as moisture will wick (ie flow up the surface as in a candle/lamp wick) into the drywall and encourage mold growth.

3/8" should be sufficient - your prop up plan is not only appropriate, but a common technique used by drywallers.


What is the relative importance of cut-retardant safety gloves when using a chainsaw?

A diagram put out by the US Product Safety Comission shows that the left leg and left arm/hand are the most commonly parts of the body injured by chainsaws:

(Source: OSHA Web site)

If the dots on the diagram represent frequency of injury,  protecting the left hand would help prevent a common source of injury.

The State Compensation Insurance Fund website also states that "The most frequent chainsaw injuries occur to the left leg and the back of the left hand."

The diagram on the OSHA site dates back to 1994, so it's not clear if modern safety features like chain brakes have changed the distribution of injuries.

Note that the  STIHL Cut-Retardant Gloves referenced by the asker of this question only provide cut protective material on the left glove: "Engtex®, a cut-retardant material, is sewn into the back of the left glove", so Stihl too has identified this as a particularly vulnerable part of the body.

To be honest, from personal experience, I'm unsure why the back of the left hand is so frequently injured, it must be because that hand can slip off the grab-bar when the chainsaw kicks back and the hand slides into the moving chain.

Since I was curious whether or not the current injury distribution matched the 1994 statistics, I did a little more research and found a CPSC query tool that gives access to their injury data.

When running this tool against their 2012 data, it reported that the CPSC estimates that there were 30,509 chainsaw injuries, and they had detailed data for 635 cases. I downloaded the detailed case data and counted up the number of hand, wrist and finger injuries:

Hand:   54  injuries (8.5% of total)
Wrist:  15  injuries (2.4% of total)
Finger: 123 injuries (19% of total)

They also provide limited details of each accident, here is limited descriptive data for a random 15 hand injuries:

59YOM USING A CHAIN SAW TO CUT BRANCHES CHAIN KICKED ..LAC TO HAND
40YOM-HAND LAC-GOT CUT WHILE USING A GRINDER TO SHARPEN A CHAIN SAW CHAIN-@ HOME
PT'S FRIEND WAS TRIMMING BUSHES WITH A CHAIN SAW AND PT'S HAND GOT IN THE WAY. LACERATION HAND, RIGHT. 54 YOM*
CUT HAND ON CHAIN SAW. LACERATION HAND, COMPLICATED. 44 YOM*
59YOM CUT HAND WITH CHAIN SAW/ RT HAND LAC
43YOM THAT WAS HELPING A FRIEND CUT DOWN A TREE WHEN HE WAS HIT IN   THE RT HAND WITH A CHAINSAW. DX: RT HAND LACERATION
17YOWM WHILE HOLDING CHAINSAW IT SUDDENLY FLIPPED & JERKED HIS HAND VIA      A ROTATIONAL FORCE. DX: SPRAIN R HAND
32 YOM CUT HAND ON A CHAIN SAW AT FRIENDS  HOUSE     DX/ LEFT HAND LAC
46YM CUTTING WOOD WITH CHAIN SAW THAT KICKED BACK CUTTING HAND       >>LAC
88YOM HELPING SON CUT A TREE, PATIENT WAS HOLDING TREE LIMB, CHAIN SAW       ACCIDENTALLY CUT HIS HAND .  DX.  LAC. HAND.
57YM CUTTING A TREE WITH CHAIN SAW WHICH KICKED BACK CUTTING HAND    >>LAC
54YOM WITH LAC TO HAND FROM A CHAIN SAW
49YOM CUT HAND WHILE USING CHAIN SAW DX: HAND LACERATION
49YMC CUTTING A TREE WITH CHAINSAW KICKED BACK FELL CUTTING PALM ON CHAINSAW/LACERATION
17YOM LACERATION TO HAND CUT WHEN THE CHAIN SAW HE WAS USING SLIPPED CATCHING HIS GLOVE

Based on this data, it does appear that kickback is a significant factor in hand injuries -- I didn't look at all of the records, but looks like kickback is cited around half the time for hand injuries.

When looking at finger injuries, kickback doesn't appear to be listed as a cause as often:

41 YO M PT WAS USING A CHAIN SAW AND CUT THE TIP OF HIS LT MIDDLE FINGE
35 YOM INJURED FINGER WITH CHAIN SAW. DX-LACERATION RIGHT INDEX
20YOM CUT THUMB ON CHAINSAW/ LT THUMB LAC WITH TENDON INVOLVEMENT
FINGER LAC, 37 YOM CUT FINGER WHEN USING A CHAINSAW
41 YOM LACERATED LEFT THUMB ON A CHAIN SAW
49YOM CUT HIS HAND ON CHAINSAW. +ETOH/LAC FINGERS
38YOM CUT FINGER WHILE USING CHAIN SAW DX: FINGER LACERATION
44 YOM SUS LAC TO FINGER, ACCIDENTALLY SLID CHAIN SAW OVER FINGER
LT THUMB LAC.34YOM LACERATED THUMB ON A CHAIN SAW.
30 YOM SUS LAC TO FINGER, HIT IT AGAINST JAGGED PORTION OF CHAIN SAW
71 Y/O MALE CUT FINGER WITH CHAINSAW AT HOME
55YOM CUTTING SOME BRANCHES USING A CHAIN SAW INJURED LT FINGER;
58 YOM W / LACERATION TO RT 3RD FINGER S/P WAS HELPING SISTER CLEAR UP
55YOM  PT CUT L INDEX FINGR W/ CHAINSAW AT HOME.  WAS NOT WEARING WORK
45YOM LACERATION TO THUMB CUT WHEN CHAIN SAW HE WAS USING SLIPPED

For comparison, I looked at the distribution of injuries for 1997 (the earliest date they provide downloadable case data for), and the distribution is similar:

Hand:   57  injuries (10% of total)
Wrist:  9  injuries (1.6% of total)
Finger: 145 injuries (25% of total)

I'm not sure what conclusion to make from the data -- if the gloves provide protection for the hands and fingers, they appear to be a good investment and will protect you from a common source of injury. If they are only effective for hand/wrist injuries, those injuries only account for around 10% of all reported chainsaw injuries, so there may be less value in the gloves.


Can I use a nest thermostat for two heating sources (Furnace and electric floor heating)

The Nest can be the controller but you will probably need a separate contactor /GFCI power source unless the flooring system has low voltage control.

Some heated floor systems have there own thermostat /GFCI protection, if you wanted to control the floor heat from the nest additional controls would be needed. One of the best home made systems I have seen was a 2 stage control , radiant heat takes time to heat up so an engineer I worked with asked me if I could build a control using a SCR for low power and a TRIAC for high power (SCR’s only turn on for 50% when commanded on and TRIAC’s are on for 100%)  this worked quite well at maintaining some warmth on low power and true warmth at high power, he provided the signals to fire the 2 solid state relays , I put them in a metal j box with a GFCI   And it passed inspection so I know it can be done but I think he was doing other things with the smart thermostat and using a micro controller for the control voltage.


Wall guide for sit-stand desk to improve stability

In the end, I bought two 500mm linear rails that were originally designed for use in CNC machinery. I will attach one on the rear wall and one on the right wall, attaching the carriages to the desk top. The total cost was around £20, but searching for the term linear rail provides plenty of options.


How to measure and cut square tiles to make a herringbone pattern?

Travertine Limestone - These are natural stone tiles with a saw cut edge.

I would rent and use a diamond saw tile cutter and use plenty of water during the cut to keep the blade cool and the lime dust down.

It's all in the setup on the saw, make sure you get the sawcut exactly centered, cut in one smooth stroke and make sure the tile is secured so it won't move during the cutting operation.

Otherwise you'll get a funny cut that will be obvious in the final layout.

Travertine and Slate are some of the softest and most easily cuttable natural tile you will work with. Be aware that either can have imperfections and can break away on the edges so have spare material available.


Should I bind the edge of an unbound remnant rug? If so, how do I do so?

You absolutely should (must) bind the edges.

Many consumer rugs are cut to length from a roll stock and bound for sale. Binding the edge is how it transforms from a textile on a roll into a rug.

You could do it yourself if you had the requisite equipment and sewing skills but I can't imagine it would be tremendously expensive to have done.

You can find a video of a product that can be used to bind your own edges, as well as basic instructions on how to use it right here.

A summary of the video is below:

  Tools you'll need

  Hot glue gun
  Scissors
  Straight edge

  Procedure

  Start by trimming the rug to provide a clean smooth edge.  You can do this using a straight edge and a pair of scissors.

  Next you'll want to trim the binding, so you start with a clean straight end.

  Pull back the backing paper, and apply the binding starting at the middle of one edge.

  When you get to the corner, use the edge of the rug as a guide to make a cut through the flat part of the binding. Then bend the binding around the corner, and continue around the rug.

  Once you've reached the place you started, use the beginning end as a guide to cut the binding to the proper length. Trim any excess strings, then attach the ends using hot glue.

  Run a 1/8" bead of hot glue, between the edge of the rug and the piping. Do this in small sections, so you can hold the two together until the glue sets. Continue all the way around the rug.

Alternatively, any rug shop or commercial carpet establishment should be able to do it for you...


Does Inverter refrigerator need automatic voltage regulator?

An uninterruptible power supply or UPS will protect the electronics in your fridge, however a fridge has a fairly high peak current at times so the UPS needs to be quite large (one for a computer won’t have the wattage to support the fridge).
I would recommend getting a whole house surge protector and installing it at your service panel (breaker box). With a whole house surge protector everything in the home is protected from spikes. Brown outs are not as bad with most inverters as they are smart enough in most cases to be able to operate down to 90v with no problems, if they can not function at lower voltages they just shut down for low voltage on their internal (usually) dc buss.
So do you need a UPS, probably not, but I would suggest a whole house surge suppressor especially if you live in an area that regularly has lightning and or heavy industrial loads close to your location.


For what it's worth, in the United States, there are a couple problems with that method.

We have rules on "box fill" or how many wires are allowed in a box.  You have to run the proper numbers, but for a wild guess that's in the neighborhood, think 2 cubic inches per wire.  You might want to consider 120mm boxes since they allow about 40% more splices, but they're harder to get covers for.

You can't mix high-voltage and low-voltage in the same electrical box or conduit. For instance you see two boxes there, one's for high voltage, the other for low. If you distribute that around the room, you'll need 2 boxes everywhere.
It is illegal to cover up a junction box with construction work. Your tenant can park furniture in front of it.  But if you need a screwdriver or wrecking bar to get to the box cover - nope!  When you have a blank junction box like this, it tempts the homeowner to want to cover it up.
The ugly aesthetics of a blank cover can be solved by putting a receptacle there.  For some reason, blank covers offend, but receptacles are dismissed as a necessity.
You probably need a receptacle there anyway, since you must have them at certain intervals.  It's about the war on extension cords; presuming living-space appliances have 6' cords and kitchen appliances have 2' cords.  Many houses are grandfathered; this only applies to new builds and projects large enough to qualify as a "remodel".  I have only spent 2 years of my life in such houses.


Is it safe to fill in or insulate the space in my walls around my fireplace flum?

Usually, no combustible materials are to be placed within 2" of fireplace vent pipes or chimneys.  We usually use something called Rockwool in these instances.


Alternative to tongue and groove adhesive for hardwood floor

This looks like a simple white wood glue. That should be no problem here. Do NOT use a polyurethane wood glue here like Gorilla glue, as that will expand out and cause a mess, as well as possibly push the boards apart.

If you are unsure if it will work, try some white wood glue on a test piece. It will dry within an hour.


Replacing bulbs in Harbor Breeze ceilng fan with remote

Double check that the bulbs are dimmable.

I have a Harbor Breeze remote control fan with Phillips dimmable LED bulbs and it works well.


Fastest way to apply light colour on a wallpaper

I cannot advise you strongly enough to not paint over the wallpaper. First reason is this is a rental unit. You are libel for any charges and costs to return it to the condition at the time you moved in. The second reason is that trying to remove wallpaper that has paint on it can be a nightmare. The way wallpaper is removed is by wetting the paper to disolve the paste. Since paint (even interior types) are almost impervious to water the stripper cannot reach the paste. The paper will come off in small pieces if at all and the surface will be rough and uneven. With the owners permission, remove the wallpaper to the base surface. It may be drywall or plaster then apply your primer and paint of choice.


I have a chirping sound in my house that moves around

Could a tree frog be in my house?

Based on your question, yes. It could also be some other relatively benign creature like a cricket.

  how do I get rid of him?

You could call a pest eradicator but these sorts of creature are usually easy to catch

Many small critters can be trapped one of these ways:

Don whatever protective gear makes you more comfortable and confident (e.g. long plastic gloves)

Locate them by sound, this may take time but should be doable if you stand still.

Take the cardboard tube from a roll of kitchen paper and fold one end securely shut (maybe tape or staple it). Place it along a corner between floor and wall with open end towards creature. Small scurrying creatures will head for the safety of darkness and enter the tube. You can then pick the tube up with the open end uppermost and relocate your captive to where it belongs.

Take a medium to large clear plastic cup (or similar transparent container) and place it slowly over the creature. Many dumber creatures only flee if something large and dark approaches quickly. This is a good way of catching wasps etc. I haven't tried it on crickets but I expect them to be harder. Slowly slide a stiff sheet of paper or cardboard under the inverted cup so as to fully contain the creature, then lift and remove.

Exceptions would be some mice and rats for which you need more elaborate traps. These don't chirp though. I think you can rule out anything clever or crafty.
(other than a nephew)

  We are afraid of them

I don't know if it helps, but they are almost certainly much much more afraid of you and are desperate to find a way out before they die of starvation.

You can make use of their fear, open a door and stand so that you are on the opposite side of the creature to the door, the creature will be inclined to flee you and seek the safety of the outside. Turning off lights can help for some flying creatures (moths, wasps, flies, ...) that seek light.


Can I safely bypass the door switch on my dryer?

It is a safety switch designed to prevent the drum from turning while the door is open. If the switch were removed and the circuit closed by connecting the wires the drum will turn and the dryer will work. Can you get someone to tell you it is an okay thing to do, not likely.


Can a load bearing beam be offset from lapping joists?

You've essentially got a column buckling problem here. Factors affecting the maximum load include the geometry of the beam cross section, its material properties, and the manner which its ends are constrained. You can read up on it here.

What makes it more complicated is a possible eccentric loading condition, as The Evil Greebo points out. Now you have to worry about compressive stress and normal stress. This eBook does a good job describing the loading conditions and resulting stress under the "Maximum Stress" section.

Since the current exact loading conditions are unknown, and in addition you're changing the location the load is applied in, I think it would seek professional engineering advice. (I would, and I'm a mechanical engineer - I just don't specialize in architecture.) Either that, or an experienced contractor may be able to give you a better answer. (Shirlock, where are you on this one, buddy?)


Is a vertical crack in a wall stud okay as long as the wall isn't load bearing?

There is no need to replace it. Just put in couple of 2 inch screws to tighten it up. ( your could squirt some wood glue into the crack for good measure before hand )

We can not see further down the wall but in theory it is attached to the 2x4 of the wall next to it so it is not carrying any load by itself.


Trimmed too deep on door side, can I save this edge?

You really have nothing to lose by trying. Cut the remaining web so the sliver is completely off, then re-glue. Clamp well. Fill the cracks after everything dries.

If you haven't already, consider painting the door, as that will hide the filler.


Does code require that you use only breaker brands explicitly listed on the breaker box, or are "compatible" breakers compliant?

At least in the US, The governing authority on this matter is the Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories (NRTLs), such as UL.  The breaker panel itself is UL Listed to work with the breakers on its label.  However, other brands can make compatible breakers and submit them to UL testing to ensure they work safely, and then these breakers become UL Classified for use with that panel, and are legal to use.  Eaton's CL (CLassified) line is one example of this -- Eaton formally stating they're compatible means nothing, what matters is that UL stated that they're compatible based on their independent testing.


Faking a hardwood floor or flat surface in a carpeted office

Buy another chair mat. It sounds like you have smooth bottomed one that is designed for use on a tile, concrete or wooden floor.

There are other chair mats that have short bumpy things on the bottom that grab into the carpet to keep it from moving around. They look like this:


How can I add a switched circuit to an existing three-way circuit?

You mentioned the travelers were in a /2 cable.  I hope that's a typo; 3-ways require at least /3 cable, and NEC 300.3(B) requires all related wires to be in the same cable or conduit, to assure currents are equal and the rather intense dynamic EMFs of AC power cancel each other out.
First, on the 3-way circuit, don't mess with the travelers.  They are not useful unless you want byzantine and annoying light control.  I even recommend marking the two travelers with yellow tape on both ends so you know what you're dealing with.

The switched-hot wire, however, can be used as a source for a subordinate light circuit.
You wire it like a normal light circuit, except instead of "supply hot" you take "tier 1 switched-hot".


What's the best way to remove Sharpie ink from a varnished bar top?

A trick I've seen is to use whiteboard markers to draw over the permanent mark, then wipe it up while it is still wet. This is because whiteboard markers and permanent markers use similar solvents.

If that fails, you can use Xylene (the solvent in these pens) or Goof Off which is a heavy-duty remover. Neither should hurt the bar surface (unlike scrubbing), but you should test it on a less visible surface first.


You have a couple of options that I can think of, assuming that the ground around the post is fairly firm:

Wedge something in next to the post.  (thin rocks, cut down cedar shingles, etc.)
Fill in the gap next to the post by pouring in sand

If the ground's soft, you'll need to re-compact the soil around the post.  (and if it's not soft, you can always loosen it up, then re-compact it, as in some cases that may be the easier fix)


Frigidaire Refrigerator water dispenser water flow too strong

You can reduce flow to the fridge by tightening the valve that supplies it. Trace the water line from the back of your fridge to your plumbing. If you find a valve that looks like this:

you can simply turn it clockwise a bit to restrict the flow. If you find a saddle valve like this:

then you will not have much ability to adjust flow at the valve. Your best bet then would be to replace the saddle valve with a proper tee and new valve with a compression outlet. While normally I'd recommend ball valves (sometimes called quarter-turn valves) for durability, they are not great for limiting flow, so here a multi-turn valve would be better.


How to fix leak from flat roof under lead flashing

Your guess may be correct. From what I can see from the photo the valley flashing doesn't appear to extend all the way down the pitched roof (although that may be from the angle it was taken).
What it also can be from is the chimney above the flashing. Flashing chimneys is extremely detailed work and must be done properly.
Extend the valley flashing if necessary. Check for loose shingles and nails. Remove any obstructions impeding rain flow from the flashing and gutters. Look at chimney flashing; i should be embedded in the bricks mortar joints.


How to remove dark spots from wood kitchen countertop

Looks like oil or grease of some sort. When you have real wood counter tops like that (which I NEVER recommend for this very reason), it is HIGHLY imperative that they be thoroughly sealed and the sealing maintained so that cooking oils and food grease cannot get into the wood, especially at the plank ends, as it has here. The reason it is so imperative is that there is no way to remove it now. The best hope is to have the entire surface sanded down to the raw wood again, bleach it (wood bleach, not laundry bleach) then try to stain it all to match the shade of those stains.


Is a 60A sub-panel adequate for my workshop/garage?

Typically you use 6 AWG copper wire for a 60A run, and 1 AWG Aluminum wire for a 100A run.  Between the two, #1 aluminum is actually cheaper, though it requires more expensive conduit if you use conduit.   (using conduit can be a convenience; Rigid conduit only needs to be trenched 6" of cover instead of 24" for buried cable, and Rigid provides a valid ground path, so no need for a ground wire).

The welder could surge 50A, and if the compressor is running at that time, these could peak the circuit past 60A.  This will not immediately trip the breaker, but it could cause minor voltage drop.  Rather than be in a situation where the circuit is straining at limits during welding, I'd advise erring on "large".  It certainly does no harm.

Speaking of "large", we recommend large service panels.  The welder will need 2 spaces, as will any 240V load.  If you put together a respectable 240V workshop, you start blasting through spaces 2 at a time.  Dealing with an over-full panel is much more expensive than just buying a bigger panel in the first place, so we recommend a biggie. And it's perfectly OK for the panel amp rating to be larger than the feed breaker.  Some people think if the breakers are equal size, the one in the shop will trip first - doesn't work that way.

And by the way, you don't need a main breaker in the subpanel.  However you do need a shutoff switch if the subpanel is in an outbuilding, and getting a panel with a main breaker is the cheapest way to do that.

Also, because it is an outbuilding, you need two ground rods at least 6' apart.  You can do it with one ground rod if you do an impedance test, but setting two ground rods is easier.  Despite the ground rods, you still need the ground wire back to the main panel (or Rigid conduit will substitute). They have different purposes, both important.


How to protect wood when applying concrete patch

The end of that  wooden beam will move slightly with humidity and temperature changes, attempts to fill that shallow void with concrete may end in dissappointment.

I'd cut a small rebate using a oscillating tool or grinder and place a piece of fibre-cement sheet over the opening, glue it in-place with builder's filler. then render over it to match the existing footing.


Please help cold water frozen not the hot in the kitchen

Try running the hot water to the sink until it's Hot, and then let it run slowly so it stays hot, while leaving the cold open. This will get some heat into the area where both pipes run. As soon as any cold starts to trickle through, switch the faucet to all cold, the cold water passing the ice will gradually melt the blockage.

If you can apply heat to the pipes directly (without burning the house down) that may help - in many cases merely opening the kitchen cabinet under the sink helps, and if you direct  stream of hot air at the pipes there it will help more.

Once you get it unfrozen, if you cannot manage insulating the pipes, keep them dripping (a deliberate slow "leak" down the drain) when it's particularly cold, which will help to keep them from freezing again.


Need to stop sound of rain hitting top of window AC

How about a synthetic door mat? They're heavy, waterproof, and some even have bristles on the top which would soften the impact of rain.


Electric oven: Bake and Broil not Working

First I am looking at your other post - thanks isherwood for linking , however you should have linked to it, to make it easier to read it..

You actually have a very similar issue and it could all be the same.

1: Did you check your range outlet for proper voltage.
You should have 110V on both phases to Neutral and if so equipped to ground.

2: Your elements could be broken at the heating element connection. Generally there is a screw type connection with a nut. Sometimes they are also insulated with a compound at these connections / pass throughs. The possibility is they could be cracked or broken completely - WHEN you have the oven UNPLUGGED and off - give a slight tug on the wires attached see if anything is loosey goosey or wiggly.

What voltage do you measure across the elements in each mode ?


If you have 2 filters racks in your system you could just pick the easiest one to change and ues it exclusively. You could also use both and change the second one less often. That seems like a lot of monitoring. You may have to check both often at first until you are able to determine a schedule. It's not a bad idea but in most cases that level of filtration isn't required.


Is it better to fill up the space between rafters with insulation, or put baffles on top and add soffit vents? (inland Los Angeles, cathedral ceiling)

For a similar situation, I'm considering an unvented cathedral ceiling (see references).

The main reason to vent an attic is to prevent warm moist indoor air from contacting the roof framing and decking. When the decking is below the dew point, the moisture condenses, the wood wets, and then an assortment of bad things happen.

There's another solution to keeping roofs dry: plug the air leaks between the house and the roof. If the warm moist air cannot contact the roof deck, it can't condense and wet the roofing. This is why pink insulation usually has a kraft paper backing (vapor retarder) that faces the inside the house.

When using the standard building materials of yesteryear, air and vapor sealing was all but impossible. In this brave new world of construction with Optimum Value Engineering, blower door testing, drywall sealing, taping OSB/plywood seams, and spray insulation, air sealing is no longer the stuff of science fiction.

Today, one can reliably air, vapor, and water seal a surface with closed cell spray polyurethane foam (ccSPF). The minimum depth required (by code) is based on the foam density and your climate zone. With you being situated in Climate Zone 3, I'd expect 1 inch (R-7) would suffice and more is shaving nickels off your electric bill. Since you have so little depth available, I'd consider filling the cavity with 3 inches of spray foam (R-21) in a two-step process:

Spray foam 1" onto the decking as close to the soffits as possible. This first layer would be applied while the decking is exposed so you're likely to get uniform edge-to-edge coverage, a good air seal, and you won't have protrusions to trim off before you can drywall.
One of:

For less than stuffed full, spray additional insulation to the desired depth and then cover with drywall.
To fill the cavity, hang a row of drywall, cover it with plywood, and then spray fill the cavity. The plywood will keep the expanding foam from popping your drywall fasteners. There are videos on YouTube showing a number of ways to do this.

Do read up on the building science behind this. In my jurisdiction, pulling a permit for this type of insulation retrofit is not required. It wouldn't hurt to  verify that your local building code permits this. If not, showing them the relevant portions of the International Building Code might change their mind.

references

Google searches: unvented cathedral attic, unvented cathedral ceiling
Pay extra attention to buildingscience.com, energycodes.gov, and greenbuildingadvisor.com. The old timers frequenting those sites are often ahead of the national building code since they often write it.


Is glue failure on garage door critical?

No, it isn't critical. The adhesive is primarily there to prevent vibration noise during operation and due to wind. The critical structural connections are at the hemmed seams and the screwed points.

That said, I'd raise a warranty claim. Poor quality is poor quality.


How should I repair damaged enamel in a clothes washer?

Those covers are usually sprayed with dry paint, that is heated and cured in an over to give the best protection. So a DIY fix will only solve it temporoary.

First of all you need to get rid of the "cancer" which is not always easy.

With some coarse sand paper 100/200 grit lightly loosen scratch the affected area.(lightly no need to apply great force)

Then use water sand paper 300-600grit to prepare the surface or to repair it after coats. You don't need to use it with water, using it dry is OK but will not last long. Normal paper is fine, as long as its fine.

Get some corrosion remover (be careful as this is acid and can bleach your clothes, burn your skin and/or damage other surface) so best to this out side. Usually it takes 2 to 4 hours for the rust to be removed. The higher the concentrated the acid is the faster it will work. It will also bubble and smell weird, like rotten eggs in some cases. SO again keep it outside.

Now a common mistake is to clean it with water. Do not do that. Do not clean it at all just let it evaporate and dry.

Now the best is to use a Primer to seal the metal again. And then just for looks you want white enamel on top of that.

TIPS

Once you have applied the etching primer to the area do not let it dry 100%. Apply the enamel aerosol on top before the recomemeded drying time to maximise bonding effect of the two paints.

You don't have to use enamel, etching primer is more than enough to seal the metal!

After using the rust remover. You can wipe clean the areas around the before rusted places with alcohol wipes to remove any grease, dirt so that all the paint binds properly. Also make sure you have scratched the original paint slightly (very very lightly not to the metal) so the etching primer has something to bond to. But make sure it is clean.
Painting over al larger section will be better instead of working with a small fiddly  bit.
Once again, its important to keep the are to be painted grease free.
It is highly likely you will get drip effect form using too much paint. Dont try to fix it. just leave it to dry and sand it down slightly if it bothers you. Trying to fix it while its wet will make it worse.
Do this outside on nice warm day, wear gloves, a mask and old clothes. Keep out of reach of children especially the rust remover.


What should I do if I'm unsatisfied with my recent roof replacement?

As a contractor, I will share with you an approach that may help.

First of all, you need to document the current leak with pictures, dates etc. When you communicate with your roofing contractor, be calm and polite, explain precisely the problem and ask to witness his/her inspection. Explain that since this is the second occurrence of the leak since the new roof installation, you are concerned that water may have compromised the insulation and framing and is a potential cause of mold or rot and must be addressed. Tell the contractor that you insist on having an infra-red scan inspection of the effected area to detect any current moisture in the cavity before any more repairs are made. If the roofer is not willing to do this, tell them that you are terribly sorry we could not reach a mutually reasonable solution. Calmly but firmly state that you now have no other choice than to have this scan done yourself and that subsequent repairs will be made by another contractor and the total costs will be litigated in a civil action against him/her. Carefully and concisely summarize your conversation and send a letter with your demands via certified mail immediately after your meeting. If the contractor does not respond favorably after written notification, contact the BBB, and licencing bureau of your town or state. If none of this induces the contractor to act, proceed to having another contractor do the scans and repairs. Follow through with civil action, usually small claims on both the contractor and his/her insurance company.


You can't mix supplies like that for numerous reasons.  Top of the list is the rule that currents must be equal in every cable or conduit i.e. cancel each other out/sum to zero.  What goes out on hot comes back on neutral. All of it, no crisscrossing to other cables.    If a cable has are two hots, then counting source current as positive and return as negative, hot1+hot2+neutral=0.

You should also get clear on the switch logic you actually want.  Often people have trouble describing (specifically enough to write software code for it) what exactly they want. What they want is a butler.  Or if they know exactly, as you do here, they find after living with it that isn't what they wanted after all.

So the simplest way to do this problem is smart switches such as Insteon or Homekit, which install in a code compliant fashion, and you can program to exactly the behaviors you want.  That is what I recommend.

But if you want to hardwire it, Commander Adama...

one option to wire this is to have supply hot/neutral (black/white) come into junction box #1 with a switch.  The switch's 2 terminals get black and red pigtails. (Red=master switched-hot).

From there you have three cables which are /3 (black red white).  As it works out, things are color coded: white for neutral, black for always-hot, red for master-switched-hot.  The three cables tie into the same colors in junction box 1, and then split, never to rejoin.  Red will be hot in the entire network anytime switch #1 is on.

The first /3 cable goes onto junction box #2. Between that junction box and light #1, 2-wire+ground /2 cable is used, except its black conductor is re-marked with blue tape for individual-lamp switched-hot.   There is also a 3-way switch there.  The two brass screws get black and red from the /3 cable (always-hot and master-switched-hot).  The black common screw gets the blue wire (lamp swithed).   The two neutrals get joined with a wirenut.

The same thing happens in junction box #3 to lamp 2... And junction box #4 to lamp 3.   Except as described here, boxes 2-4 and lamps 1-3 do not connect to each other in any way whatsoever.

Currents are equal (canceling) in every cable.

The 3-way switches in boxes 2-4 have 2 positions.  In one position, they connect master-switched-hot to their lamp, yielding to switch #1‘s setting. In the other position, they connect always-hot to their lamp, overriding switch #1.


Air handler condensation draining problem

What you’re describing sounds like a combination of negative pressure in the compartment that the drain pan connected to and an incorrectly sized p-trap on the condensate drain.

The depth of the t-prap has to be greater than the negative pressure in inches of water column of the compartment where the drain is connected to. A t-prap with insufficient depth, will prevent the condensate from overcoming the negative pressure which prevents draining until the fan stops.

Further information on sizing of p-traps for condensate can be found in this pdf article: Condensate Traps by Ronald F. Brusha.


Wiring low voltage doorbell wire through exterior wall and studs

Your plan has a good chance of succeeding as I have done similar work and was successful. I would suggest adding a new junction box, old work box, close to your existing outlet. You can't just go around eliminating outlets because you need the box. Code requires where you need to put them. Just add a new box, pigtail the feed from the existing outlet to the new box and install your transformer. Getting your new wire down there before installing the new box will make it easier.


White mold (?) in wooden bench's crevices: how to test and clean

I think that dark strip is a metal spacer.  I think the white stuff is white rust

https://www.sharrettsplating.com/blog/corrosion-resistance-of-zinc-plating/

White rust is zinc oxide forming on galvanized iron.
Test the strip with a magnet.  If I am right it is magnetic.   If that is the case there is no way that is mold.  The white stuff can be removed by scrubbing.  Wikipedia recommends oil to prevent white rust. I suspect that furniture polish could probably do double duty and protect the metal from oxidation as well.


How can I remove a stripped nut from a bolt?

You can use a special tool called a nut-splitter.

Another method is to use a rotary tool (e.g. Dremel) with a cutting wheel or grinding bit. There's a strong likelihood of damaging the bolt.

As a last resort you can use a smaller angle-grinder to cut through the nut and/or bolt. There's a good chance of damaging the fork (or yourself) unless you are very carefull.


How do you build a portable lightweight frame for trees?

PVC pipe might be a fairly cheap option.  Though exposure to UV will reduce its impact resistance over time, so you might have to replace parts over the years.

If you dry fit the fittings, you can assemble/disassemble as needed. Which would reduce the space required for storage, and increase portability.

You might have to use sandbags or stakes to keep them in place, if it's windy in your area.


If you are speaking of the holes marked 4,5,6,8,10, these are small bolt sizes. There is 1 size missing and that is #12. Most sizes with diameters less than 3/16" are listed as number sizes.  I hope this helps and is what you are asking about.


That's one approach, but you might do better from a thermal standpoint to use fiberglass batts and housewrap. You could then lay 3/8" plywood over it all and not have to skirt it.

If you use foam, I'd tape the seams to create a better air/moisture barrier.


How can I install an exterior electrical box flush in stucco?

It sounds to me like the caulk is meant to prevent water from getting into the wall, not to prevent water from entering the electrical box. To seal the box, you'll want to use a weatherproof cover with a weatherproof gasket.

If the box is in an area protected from the weather, you can use a cover that is weatherproof when nothing is plugged in.

However, if the box is not protected, you'll want to use a cover that is weatherproof even when things are plugged in.

In my opinion, it's a good idea to use an "in-use" cover for all outdoor receptacles


Can I install a light switch/GFCI outlet combo?

This appears to be a switch loop. That is, a hot white coming down from a fixture to the switch and a black load wire going back to control a fixture. Since there is no neutral, you can't wire an outlet to the existing box with the existing wires. If you verify this to be true, put a few wraps of black tape over the white wire or mark it with a black magic marker to indicate that it's hot. You would have to replace the 14/2 with a 14/3 to bring the neutral down from the source to add the GFCI outlet.


Should I increase the duct size of my bathroom fan outlet?

There's no problem doing so. You'll have a lower air velocity at the outlet, but that shouldn't be an issue. It certainly won't result in lower overall exhaust efficiency.


Generally the location is a mix of what is easiest to cable to, some locations may be more difficult to get access to.

Also then what is the most secure location and also an area that looks the best.

So say if it was a business the alarm panel typically may go in somewhere like the safe room, comms room or a services riser. Domestic installs typically go in robes or cupboards.

So considerations are:

Making it less available to any possible intruders either when they
have broken in or if they are casing somewhere. If they intend to try
to tamper with it make it harder for them to get to and to know about
and find in the first place.
Making it more secure or harder to get to by putting it in a more
secure location, physically secure such as in a room with a strong
door, better quality locks or so on. Also in an area with electronic
security such as being in a room with sensors so they will set off
detectors before they are even in front of the panel. Panels do
typically have tamper detection however there are often ways around
it, so this is where it being covered by a sensor applies.
Realistically putting it somewhere that is actually possible to
cable, some installs may be extremely difficult to do certain locations.
Aesthetics wise, installing it somewhere unobtrusive where you are
not looking at an ugly box all the time.
Somewhere it can actually be worked on by a tech, generally
will not be worked on often but sometimes you get locations where the
panel is put somewhere extremely difficult to find (like a  hot dusty
roof space) or get access to (such as you can't even get the door
open). This will hamper any technician working on it.

It's always a compromise of some sort between these points, your suggested location sounds fairly typical so would likely be a good bet.


A threaded 4-40 rod with a cap nut/acorn nut on one end would be similar to a screw.

Acorn Nut Wikipedia page


Replace it. The integrity is now compromised. Do not risk child safety over cheap plastic.

No adhesive, epoxy, resin or anything like that will return the original strength of the slide and any ideas involving screwing backing plates in sound good, but once you start drilling holes or screwing through things you are going to weaken the slide in multiple areas to try to save another and risk making it worse.

It may be disappointing for your child and they may have to wait before you can replace it but that's better than a trip to A and E.

Can I get an Amen?

Sorry about your slide, it looks like a good one too.


How to install GFCI combo switch and outlet with only 2 wires

Please post a photo of wires coming from the wall.
In my opinion your former switch was RCD outlet + unprotected switch, newer is RCD outlet + RCD protected switch. The difference is that the neutral coming from the light should be connected to the 'load' side of your GFCI when with older setup this wasn't needed.

To have it work you should:
1> pigtail one of the black wire with the black coming from the light fixture
2> connect together the black feed from the panel to the black wire TOGETHER with the other black wire coming from the switch (2 wires in one screw)
3> connect the two whites (one coming from the panel and one from the light fixture) to the other terminal of the outlet (2 wires in one screw)

If you have more than 4 wires coming to the switch, the third pair serves the other outlets in the room and should be connected to the LOAD side of the outlet (to the screws protected by the tape).


For drilling stainless steel (which is quite hard, thanks to the chromium), your best bet are cobalt-steel drill bits (here's an example). Cobalt steel drill bits are significantly harder than regular HSS drill bits and will cut the stainless steel much better, allowing easier drilling. They are characterized by a dark golden color (as opposed to lighter golden color of titanium-oxide coated bits, like the ones you've linked) and are more expensive than regular HSS bits.

Regarding technique, the trick for drilling hard metals is to drill with a slow speed and high pressure on the drill. The goal is to get the drill to "bite" the metal, cutting of shavings. A drill press will be very useful here (if you can get access to one). High speed drilling will often just overheat the drill bit and the metal, without actually doing anything. Cooling and lubricating are also important, but for 1.5mm wall thickness I think it's not that critical. Just make sure to cool the bit between holes.

In addition, the required hole size matters - for small holes (up to 3-4 mm) you'd need to be careful lest you break the drill bit (which is quite easy to do). For larger holes, it would be best to use progressively larger drill bits. Don't use drill bits that are too close in diameter, as this may cause them to screw into the metal instead of drilling it (for example, for an 8 mm hole, don't use 7mm and then 8mm. Use 5 and then 8, or 3, 6 and 8 or the like).

Use a center punch to get a starting point for the drill bit, to prevent wandering.

Finally, make sure you disable the percussion function of your drill when drilling. Percussion is used for masonry work, and will only damage the drill bit and work when drilling metal.


Wiring Diagram for Double Gang Box - Double Toggle Switch + GFCI Receptacle

Replacing the recep and replacing the switch are two separate transactions.

Replacing the receptacle

First, make sure this recep is not already protected by a GFCI somewhere else.  Push TEST on all kitchen GFCIs and on all kitchen circuit breakers that have a TEST button.   If doing any of this knocks out power to the receptqcle, your work is already done. Congrats!

Now, if you need to install the GFCI recep, leave the warning tape on the LOAD screws, don't use them. You don't know what they're for, and lights don't need it.

Note that the LINE screws are actually capable of taking 2 wires each, via the screw-and-clamp arrangement built into it.

Replacing the switch

Don't replace the switch if you don't need to.  If you are only changing it from two-oval to match the rectangular Decora style used by the GFCI, you don't need to do that. You can get faceplates with ovals and one Decora.

The switch is wired one of three ways.

3 wires - one hot supply wire (wired to common) and 2 lamp wires.
4 wires - 2 lamp wires, and two hot supply wires - one from supply and the other carrying power onward to other points of use.  These both will be connected to "common": The connecting tab will not be broken, so they connect through to each other.
4 wires - separate control of each switch.  In this case the "common" terminal won't be common because the connecting tab will be broken off. Each switch will have its own dedicated supply hot wire and separate lamp wire.  These must be kept paired, and must not be crossed.

You will need to examine the old switch and seee how it was connected, and connect the new one the same way as approriate for it.

Quite likely, all wires will be black.  I like to use colored tape to distinguish wires.  This is best done before disassembling everything.


How can I level a slab with floor drains?

When you have floor drains, the installer should have established a fairly smooth slope toward those drains into the floor as part of the process of "floating" (levelling and smoothing) the surface of the concrete. This is slightly annoying but not difficult -- I've done it for summer-camp shower houses, as a mostly-untrained volunteer -- so a pro should have been able to handle it. If it's really their error (rather than someone tromping around in the wet cement after they levelled it but before it hardened), I agree with @MichaelKaras that it's their responsibility to figure out how to fix it.


How do I install a garden door that's thicker than the wall?

As DA01 said - cut one inch off of either side of the door jamb.


Is it possible to silver braze steel parts printed by a 3D printer?

I think because bronze is added into the part matrix, it will be more braze/solder-able than stainless steel alone.  It should also lower the temp solder needed to get a good bond.

The trick will be to get the part hot enough to flow the solder without deforming the sintered matrix

I would use the slightly hotter MAPP gas (over propane) for the lower temp silvers.  If you need the harder silver, you may have to step up to acetylene-air. here's a typical light brazing setup (minus the gas bottle, of course.  That's a local ).  After that, propane-oxygen and then Acetylene-ox

There are a range of silver solders with different melting termeratures.  In general, the higher temps are stronger.  The fluxes are matched to the solder.  There are silvers with the flux bonded to the outside.

Silver solder pastes (several pastes) with the flux mixed in are nice to "reflow" solder with.  You assembly the joint with a minimum of paste, heat until it reflows(melts).

Stick and wire solder involves fluxing the parts, heating until the flux flows and the (usually water) liquid boils off.  Solder is immediatiatly added  with heat applied until the solder flows and wicks around the parts.  Immediately remove heat and let cool without disturbing the joint.  Applying the solder too soon will result in a lumpy "cold" joint with little strength.  Practice on scrap first.

Cleaning of the joint is usually done with mildly acidic sulfpheric solution or pickling solution

Eye Goggles, gloves, ventilation (flux smoke) and a small bottle of co2 fire extinguisher would be advisable.

None of the product references constitute an endorsement, they are listed to show a "typical".


How do I turn off the water flow to my toilet?

In almost all cases there should be a shutoff valve behind the toilet, just follow the visible pipe that comes out the bottom of the toilet tank. It will either be a globe valve that has a handle you need to turn many times to open/close, or a ball valve with a handle that you turn 1/4 turn to turn on/off.

If there is no shutoff valve, you would need to turn off the supply to your entire house.  It would also be a good time to install a dedicated shutoff for the toilet.


A piston pump compared to a plunger pump, from Wikipedia. The parts you specified from your picture are piston pumps.

  A piston pump is a type of positive displacement pump where the high-pressure seal reciprocates with the piston.1 Piston pumps can be used to move liquids or compress gases.


Could this leak be caused by the cartridge needing to be replaced or is it because the clip was not installed or could it be a bigger problem with the pipes?

It could be any of those, but I'd start by installing the cartridge clip.


What type of cord are you using? I have never seen a type of cord that it is rated for direct burial.

Article 550.10 is pretty clear regarding mobile home power cords but it is at the beginning of the Code that states you need to follow all listing, labeling, and manufacturer's instructions.

  110.3(B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

According to the Code, you only need conduit where the cord is exposed to damage, passes through walls or floors, (or where buried because it is not listed / labeled for direct burial).

  550.10(G) Protected. Where the cord passes through walls or floors, it shall be protected by means of conduits and bushings or equivalent.

I would just pass the cord through the skirt and not worry about burying it, or install some PVC from directly under the panel inside to the power pedestal and pull the cord into that. You could use a bushing to pass up into the mobile home. It should already have the bushing if it was wired right from the factory.

Good luck in the spring!


How do I stop patches from showing through paint?

I fixed this the hard way, by sanding off the impermeable filler. I was kind of a pain, but did get me the desired result:

For reference, the filler was Everbuild Deep Gap Filler. It's worked well for me elsewhere, but seems quite incompatible with clay paints, for what it's worth.


What are these spongy/soft spots on my hardwood floor?

I suspect the previous answer will rarely apply to the problem as reported by OP. Most likely the floor isn't "solid" hardwood (ie - it's probably not 2-3cm thick floorboards laid directly over joists that have sagged).

I've often seen what OP describes on "click-lock" flooring, where interlocking 6-10mm thick panels are used to "tile" the area. The panels are usually laminate rather than "real wood", but according to that Wikipedia link it's often called floating wood tile in the US, and some artificial composites are so good you might think they're real wood anyway. Whatever - the problem can apply (though less commonly) even with real "wood strip flooring", as it's often called in the UK.

The American name itself suggests where the problem lies. These "secondary" floor coverings are supposed to float, meaning they should not actually be fixed to the flat surface underneath. In the UK, most modern building have 8' x 4' chipboard sheets screwed into the joists, and the "floating" floor lays directly on these sheets.

Actual floorboards (generally older buildings in the UK) are usually lengths of softwood about 6" wide spanning the entire room. If a floating floor is laid on these, they're normally covered first with a layer of thin (4-6mm) plywood sheets, to get the required flat surface for the floating floor.

With these types of flooring, it's essential the entire top covering is actually able to float - whether it's real wood or a composite material, temperature and humidity changes over time are likely to cause expansion. The hollow/spongy patches aren't caused by sagging. The floor is trying to expand, but is being pinched at the edges because there's not an adequate expansion gap where the floor meets the walls, so it buckles upwards.

Because "click-lock" flooring looks easy, people often do it themselves - or employ an incompetent handyman who does a job that looks good until he's been paid, but causes problems later.

In every case I've seen, the solution involves taking off the skirting boards (apparently called base or mop boards in US/Canada). The floating floor is supposed to go under the bottom of the skirting, but still have about a 1cm gap between the flooring panels and the actual wall. If there's no gap, chisel one out. If the flooring panels were actually butting hard against the front edge of the skirting, saw/chisel the bottom of the skirting so it can go under. Then just re-fix the skirting.

Sometimes the "pinch points" may not actually be at the skirting/wall. You may have a fitted kitchen, for example, where the base units are solidly fixed to the underlying "subfloor". But the same basic principle applies. There will probably be quadrant (scotia) strips covering the vertical/horizontal join. Prise/chisel these off to check whether the floating floor is being trapped against something under there - if so, just adapt the remedy outlined above.


Can I use a vapor barrier paint instead of polyethylene sheets to encapsulate my crawlspace?

Check out information on basement and crawl space strategies on the buildingscience.com website.  Also, check your local codes.  Some jurisdictions still require methods that are not scientifically correct, and some have requirements related to storm surge and flooding.  If you dig a little, some have work-arounds for both scenarios that are more energy efficient.


What should be done to check the capacity of a 100+ year old wooden floor joist?

That’s a lot of information to review, and I’m American so I don’t know anything about metric, but I’ll try...
Your layout is somewhat different than that shown in the “full report” and picture in Section 1 at Zwae....  There the glass windows are in the same wall as your dormer AND at the same level. However, in your building the dormer is in a wall 90 degrees to the glass walls AND in the roof above the main room.
Be careful of using others reports that are similar and not exact. This could affect your structural design. In this case you have twice the glass in the walls as in the report for the unit at Zwae....
I don’t know if you are located in a high wind area or seismic active area, but if so, you’ll need special connections at each side of your windows and special nailing into your plywood roof sheathing.
Also, Based on the size of the joists and their span, I’d guess they are not more than 4’ (1.2 m) on center. This would be a minimum requirement, because your joists at 4’ on center will only support about 60 lbs. per square foot (Live Load and Dead Load) at that span.
Wood that old has dried out and could have some significant “checking”. This can reduce the joists strength and I’d recommend you visually inspect each joist to insure their integrity.


Corner sink installation in corner lazy susan cabinets

I'd use the square-walled for the sink, so you have more room to work with for pipes. And using the one with cylindrical walls as the main cabinet will help keep items from falling off the shelf into the nether regions the square corners would leave open.


Correct type of shower handle to use for valve that sticks out too far?

What you are calling a white pipe is likely the body of the mixing valve. The installation as it is now looks carefully done: a nice circular hole, and a schluter kerdi seal around the hole (the orange plastic ring inside the hole). I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that it sticks out to much. You probably just bought the wrong brand of handle.

You're best bet is to take this photo to a plumbing supplier and hope the can identify what brand of mixing valve you have.  Then you can order a handle and escutcheon (the cover plate) that fit your valve properly. I don't recognize the brand myself, I can only tell you it doesn't look like a Moen valve.


What coating to put on a flat roof so that it can be walked upon?

What you are after is waterproof deck coat also known as elastomeric waterproof rubber base coat. There are different brands out there, pick one and go for it.


Without the neutral attached to the receptacle the terminal is floating. So, taking a voltage reading (comparing it to ground) you could get different readings and 20 VAC is not surprising. The current you were measuring was the leakage current through your meter.

It wasn't actually drawing any power during your test since you hadn't completed the circuit and were just taking a static voltage reading. The device may draw micro amps of current to operate the circuitry while it is operating normally. Modern test equipment is very sensitive by design. This is why a static voltage test on a car battery doesn't really show the condition of the battery. A better test would be performed with the headlights and defroster on.

The main goal of a piece of test equipment is to measure the circuit without affecting the circuit.


How to re-attach toilet paper holder post back onto wall

In your photo of the "post" you can see a screw (called a "grub screw" in the UK or a "set screw" in the US, if you want the terminology). You need a small screwdriver to loosen off this screw. The post will then fit back over the wall bracket, and you tighten up the grub screw to reconnect the post to the wall.


What kind of wall switch is needed for a natural gas fireplace to ignite consistently?

The thermopile in your fireplace puts out millivolts, nothing near the 120V the light switch was designed for.  It's probably just a matter of finding a switch with a low enough on resistance.  A generic low voltage switch from a electronics store, or ripped out of a toy, would probably do it (for example a 12V SPST).  Really here the smaller the better, but beware of anything too cheap as that may put you down the wrong path again.

There are some fireplace specific forums which could help, particularly with a model number given.  An example is http://www.hearth.com/talk/ .  The above image is from "Discover Circuits Magazine (December 2009 Issue 4)", which has a guide on this exact topic along with a clever booster solution from one "Mr. Wily Widget".  Find it over at http://www.discovercircuits.com/dc-mag/Issue_4/pg-7.htm

You can also try cleaning the thermopile which may have crust of soot.  Measure the voltage between those two exposed wires to see if your cleaning makes an improvement.