How can we prepare a nicotine stained room for painting without dangerous chemicals?

I'm not sure you'll find a product to seal stains without any VOCs, especially if you want an organic paint. The organic solvents in paint must evaporate to leave the coating on walls.  The fact that they evaporate at room temperatures, by definition, means they are volatile, hence Volatile Organic Compound (VOC).  The least harmful stain blocker my be a shellac primer.  Its basic components are resin produced by bugs and alcohol (the drinking kind). It will seal the stains and keep them from bleeding through to the top coat probably better than Kilz. You will need to have good ventilation while the alcohol evaporates, though. Shellac primer does a good job of sealing, but it doesn't have much any pigments in it, so you may need two finish coats (which you will probably need anyway).


How to determine if a drain running into concrete slab has a trap?

Borescopes on Amazon

The cheap and easy way - purchase a camera and look.

Most newer USB-OTG capable phones will work with USB Borescopes/Endoscopes/webcams.

I am using the same USB scope that I bought years ago for use with my laptop, as a borescope for my Samsung S7 phone.

Paired with the free app IP Webcam and/or native Android WiFi screen casting, it has proven quite indispensable in contrast to how little it cost to purchase online.


How does a garage door motor wall control on a two wire circuit determine between door control and light control?

I haven't played with a Genie unit, but I spent some time with an oscilloscope and a Chamberlain/Lift Master unit several years ago. I found it has two modes of operation. One is the simple contact closure -- just short the two wires together and the motor will operate. The other mode is digital. The two wires carry power to the wall control, but they also carry a serial data communication protocol between the motor and the control. The only way to control the advanced features, such as turning the light on and off, is to use one of the wall controls with the digital interface.
As I recall, I also found that the two modes can't be used together. For example, you can't put the fancy wall control in one place in the garage and put a simple doorbell type switch in another place. When the simple switch shorts the wires the door operator goes into "dumb switch" mode and the fancy wall control ceases working (until the door operator is power cycled).
I couldn't say for sure whether your Genie works the same as that Chamberlain did, but I would not be surprised if it does. In any case, you wouldn't get far with discovering this nor reverse-engineering it armed with only a volt meter, unfortunately.


A typical (I am sure there are exceptions for various extreme situations - perhaps clean rooms, hospital operating rooms, extreme environmental situations, space station (ISS), etc. - though it may turn out that nearly all (except ISS) are really just "regular air conditioning with higher power and/or more filtering") does the following:

Use some method of cooling to indirectly cool the air in a building. In a traditional home air conditioner that is via freon which goes through a compression/expansion cycle so that it gets very cold to go inside and cool your air and then releases the heat outside. The mechanism is a little different with a chiller, but the basic result is the same: some method gets something really cold and the building air transfers heat to that thing (e.g., freon or water) and the air ends up colder. But the air does not "touch" the actual freon or other cooling fluid.
Filter the air to remove dirt/dust/pollen/etc. That can range from a simple replaceable filter to a HEPA "super" filter that can get the really small stuff out. Some systems use an electrostatic filter to get the dust out electrically - but the goal (and result, hopefully) is always the same - make the air cleaner. Air circulated through a house repeatedly (and especially with modern buildings that are well sealed) collects a lot of dirt from people, pets, etc. so filtering is important.
Blow the air through the building. This is required for air conditioning because, unlike heating where the heat can radiate through the house naturally, cold air will not do much unless it gets pushed to where you need it.

There is a lot more variety on heating systems, but for HVAC that's all there is to it. So why does it feel unnatural?

Dry air. A natural consequence of air conditioning is that it will lower the humidity of the air. In many areas, hot summer air is also humid air ("It's not the heat, it's the humidity!") and that is because hot air can hold more water vapor than cold air. When the air is cooled, it goes below the dew point and water vapor condenses and needs to be removed (preferably by gravity, but if that is not sufficient then there will be a condensate pump). As the air warms up again, it will end up much less humid and feel different. This is good for a number of reasons, provided it doesn't get too dry. But it will definitely feel different. As an example, if you have a hot, humid day but at night if the temperature outside drops to 72 F, the inside air at 72 F will feel different because it has been dried over the course of the day when it was cooled.
Blowing air. A breeze feels different than stagnant air. While the average air speed inside a house is very low, next to each air vent it will be fairly high.
Cold air. You can't easily cool a house to 72 F by blowing 70 F air. So you blow air at 60 F (or colder). That is much colder than you are normally comfortable with, but it mixes with the rest of the air quickly and averages out to the set temperature. Similarly, in the winter (if you have forced air heating), the air coming out of the vents will be a lot warmer than 72 F but it will all average out. Some people like that feeling "I'm hot - ahh, nice cold air" and "I'm cold, ahh, nice hot air" but some people are uncomfortable with that differential.


magic chef gas stove no clicking, gfci is tripped, won't reset

There are five possibilities.  Note that there could be more than one of these underlying the problem.

You aren't resetting the GFI correctly.  Move the breaker handle all the way to off before turning it back on.
The GFI is broken.
The range is broken.
Something else on the same circuit is broken.
If the circuit has never worked correctly, the circuit wiring might have been done incorrectly, or it has changed.  A peek inside the circuit breaker panel for loose wires could identify the answer.

We need more information to determine which problem it is.


How to fix my roof draining into gutter improperly

I agree with your assessment that these corners are getting wet, and it is because they are improperly formed.
As commenter suggested, the gutter typically goes all the way to the roof edge, as in this picture (crudely edited from what you posted). This would require cutting the extra-long fascia shown in red.

Alternatively - much easier, but kind of a stop-gap measure you can use "in the meantime" while you prepare to cut fascias/extend gutters - you can at least stop the water from getting in here using another piece of aluminum flashing that extends from under the shingles to over the end of the fascia. The key here is to route the water from the roof around the top of the fascia where it has been sitting long enough to seep under the paint. Note that even with this measure, you'll need to properly address this soon because the fascia wood has already started to rot.


What should I do about a high spot in my new driveway that is causing rain water to backup?

Asphalt driveways are surprisingly flexible when new, and residential driveways are not typically compacted much past 90% — which means there is some flexibility to rework and further compact it.

I corrected a high edge on mine by heating with a torch and pounding it with a 4x4 hand tamper I kept coated in non-stick cooking spray (to prevent soft asphalt and aggregate from sticking to the tamper).


Attaching wall frame and soffit to a load supporting beam

Yes it is ok to add your wall and box in the vent lines. This is is very common, in fact.


I would not ever use pressure-treated wood for any internal application - framing or furniture.  Go buy non-pressure treated 4x4s, or sister together two 2x4s to build 4x4s.

Otherwise, I sand pine down to 180 grit, prime, and paint.


Is rodent damage considered "physical damage" under the NEC?

If you run the cable through a cage full of rats, then yes.  Other than that, it's going to be up to the Authority Having Jurisdiction to make the call.  They have a better understanding of the local conditions, and can make a more informed decision.


Any bolt of the correct thread pitch would work. I'd suggest taking it to your local hardware store and browsing the selection until you find one that matches. I would recommend stainless steel so it doesn't rust and/or get nasty looking, brass would be a good alternative, though it wouldn't match in terms of color. Galvanized steel would be a second place. Bare steel would be a very distant 3rd, and I'd invest in a box of them so you can replace them when they start to look nasty.


How to unclog cast iron T drain for three sinks

Epilogue: I ended up replacing a one foot section of the drain pipe below the T with a clear piece of PVC pipe. I drilled a hole in the PVC pipe and covered it with a sliding rubber coupling. I can now run a snake up the drain pipe to the T area without removing the drain pipe. I also tried a water jet, but it was difficult to maneuver. I also periodically pour hot water and liquid soap down the sink drain to reduce potential blockages. Not ideal, but manageable.
Thanks for the suggestions!


You're looking for Jacobs part number 31037, it's a keyless 1/2" chuck for standard 3/8" drills designed specifically for the purpose of converting them. Your 3/8 drill will be fine with a 1/2" chuck, I've got a few than have been converted, 2 air powered, 1 corded/electric and 2 cordless.  Just treat the drill as you normally would, drilling holes larger than 3/8" with a 3/8" drill has never been a problem.

I converted my first cordless drill for the same reason, needed to use an Irwin Unibit with the large shank.


Is an electric dryer's vent pipe a fire hazard when routed through the floor?

It's not a concern. Dryer exhaust might hit 200 degrees, but most have thermal fuses far below that. You'd need twice that and then some to start a fire. Heck, many dryers are vented through cheap vinyl hose. If it was a concern building codes would require double-wall flues akin to those used for gas appliance exhaust.

I do recommend against the lightweight foil hose, though. It really accumulates lint. Use semi-rigid aluminum pipe at least (example). Its ridges are much smaller and it's less likely to close up on itself in a bend.

You may have heard of the risk of not cleaning the lint filter. This can result in reduced airflow and heat accumulation, but any fire is likely to begin in the dryer in this case. More on that


How much usable air in an air compressor?

You should just measure the usage time through real world experimentation. This will give you the quickest and most accurate information at your real world set of conditions.

Empirical measurement methods will factor in all the variables of the system that may not be considered in a simple theoretical mathematical model. In fact the empirical method would be used repeatedly to verify any mathematical model while all the unaccounted variables are factored into the model.

If you do not currently have the air compressor unit on hand to do the empirical test you should consider one of:

See if you can borrow a similar compressor from a friend or colleague. It may be even easier to take your attachment gear with you to their shop or garage to do the test since for a test on a 3 gallon tank it will not take a long time at all.
Rent a unit from a rental yard for a half day. Schedule it so you can use it when you can also plan to use it for a regular task.
Take your gear with you to the orange colored BigBox store....many have rental sections....and explain that you are looking to purchase a unit from the store and ask them if they would help you run the empirical test right there in the store.


Closing in Garage door while raising existing header on load bearing wall

The new man-door opening will have to be framed as usual - jack studs / header / cripple studs so that part of the wall doesn't sag.
 (Of course the header for the door will not need to be nearly as big as the  original for the overhead door, it's span is so much shorter.)  That's simple enough.

The trick is figuring out a way to temporarily support the portion of the wall where you're cutting out the old header and framing the new opening.  There are a number of methods of temporary support, depending how much room you have to work, but you couldn't really suggest what's best without a clear picture of the existing wall framing.


How to best deal with cracks in concrete?

Replacement is the most expensive but best solution. Be sure the base is properly prepared and compacted, and use reenforcing steel, which I have to suspect the current installation either did not, or not nearly enough. Steel is very inexpensive in the overall cost of having concrete poured, but adds a huge amount of strength to the result.
It also seems doubtful that "control joints" (neat, tidy, straight grooves in the concrete to encourage any cracks that DO form to form "just there") were made in the slab we are looking at. Those typically want to be no more than 12 feet / 4 meters apart.
Topping will soon crack in the same places, as the chunks of cracked concrete under it will continue to move relative to each other. Only if the topping was thick enough to sustain reenforcing steel of it's own might it hold up, and at that point you might as well go the sure route of replacement.
Sealing the cracks is a stopgap. Again, the chunks are now moving (slowly, for the most part, with the seasons) with respect to each other, so it's expected that the sealant will crack (if hard) or tear open (if flexible) eventually. On the other hand, as long as you can stand it, it's by far the least expensive solution.


How do we waterproof a cement slab floor that has moisture coming up?

It sounds like you have two problems.

Water is coming in through the space where the wall meets the floor.

This can be mitigated by making sure the surrounding terrain is sloped away from the walls, ensuring that surface water flows away from the structure.  You might also be able to dig out the foundation and seal the soil/structure boundary with a heavy plastic such as Delta Board.

The other problem is likely what's called rising damp.   This is water underneath the foundation that wicks up through the concrete.  The solution is expensive.  You need to excavate the foundation, Install weeping tile which drains to a safe location.  This will help keep ground water out from underneath the foundation.

Since you say this is a barn, the foundation may not be that deep, and it's something you could do yourself.  Just be sure to fully research (or ask questions here) how to do it.


How to install hydronic radiant heat over concrete slab

From Radiant Engineering, thanks for discussing our ThermoFin U product. The preferred method is to install the plates with the fins down. For a ThermoFin U installation on concrete, you would build a surface to be able to screw the plates into by first putting down a layer of Atlas Rboard®, recommended 1/2", which you should be able to get from your local building supplier.
A Google search on Atlas Rboard® will bring up their site and the product info.

On top of the Rboard® you would put down a layer of plywood. The fasteners will hold best if you can use 3/8" plywood. It will work with 1/2" plywood if necessary.

Keep in mind that you want the heat energy to be going into the plywood sleepers and the finish floor, which is why we recommend the Rboard®.

The energy without the layer of insulation will be drawn into the concrete, and the response time would be longer in heating the floor. Heating up the mass of concrete is not necessarily a good thing when you want the entire surface floor to be warmed. The ThermoFin U heat transfer plates are easier to install if the fins are down against the subfloor and plywood sleepers on the fins. See the PDF multipage spec sheet that is linked on the U-fin page of our site. You are making a sandwich of aluminum and plywood to evenly heat the structure and provide a friendly surface for the flooring installation. You can call or email us for more help. We also have routed 180 degree return bends for the PEX tubing when using ThermoFin U.


What type of fuse should I use for my GFCI kitchen receptacle?

Yes, use 15A time delay, the short inrush of motors will not damage the wire. In the US even circuit breakers operate on a time delay, they call it "inverse-time", which really means the same thing.

Not sure what type of fuse is used in your country, in the US a FRN15 fuse would have a similar 500%/10 second delay that a typical thermal magnetic breaker would trip.


Can I support a granite countertop overhang with embedded steel bars?

Based on the flexibility of the flat bar stock, I decided to use square 1/2" tube stock.

Using a 3/4" MDF subtop, I routed channels 5/8" wide and 9/16" deep. I then filled these channels with polyurethane glue, set in the steel bars, and finally I used a drywall knife to spread and flatten glue over the top of the bars.

Here are pictures of my actual work:
The cabinets are backed by a 2x8 pony wall. The MDF is glued and screwed to the pony wall and all cabinet frames. The steel bars span everywhere except the sink cabinet.


Your first option is to see if there is any addition to the door jamb that can be removed to give you a standard width.  Sometimes there is additional molding added that may appear to be one piece, but it can be removed.  If it's not trim, you may even be able to modify the jamb with a router to give you a little extra size on either edge (more advanced, but cost effective if you have the tools).

If the jamb is an odd size, then you can get odd sized storm doors.  They might not have them in stock, but sizes like 34" can be ordered.  Get the closest size available and add trim to make it fit.

As a random example, this Andersen door can be ordered at 33", 34" or 36" (not recommending this door, just a quick example of odd sizes).  If you call around, you might even be able to find a 35" door.  There are shops that specialize in doors and windows and they might be your best bet.


What's needed to add an Osram Lightify bulb to a Philips Hue installation

Old outdated information about EU vs US firmware.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Hue/comments/42840b/howto_make_american_osram_lightify_bulbs/

The firmware is now combined into one compatible version.
Try this, several people report they work: https://recoveringappleholic.wordpress.com/2016/01/23/how-to-get-lightify-to-work-with-hue/

I believe @DanielGriscom was talking out of turn and sharing his thoughts that were based off poor assumptions rather than research.


How to block airflow under an interior door over carpet

Google "bottom mount door sweep" for any number of inconspicuous options. It appears that your gap is roughly 3/4", which should be fairly easy to fill.

Really, though, I'd investigate why an interior door has so much airflow around it. A window a/c unit should have no trouble keeping up in a single bedroom. You should be able to see your breath.


What are the pros and cons of two AC systems vs a dual zone system?

A dual-zone system is one heating element and/or AC coil serving two separate ductwork segments. The extra cost of a dual-zone system as opposed to a single-zone system is in the dual-zone temperature monitoring/control panels, and a system-controlled diverter that sends the air to the side of the system that needs it (or both).

The upsides:

One interior and one exterior unit to buy/maintain. Drastically reduces most routine maintenance costs and generally increases MTBF.
Easier to balance your home's ventilation; you don't have to worry about the relative heating/cooling capacity of two units versus the space they're expected to cover.
Dual-zone systems usually have a "master/slave" control panel arrangement allowing the "master" panel to control both zones while the "slave" panel can either also control both or only control the secondary zone, possibly with additional restrictions like max/min temperature that can be set on the master panel.

The downsides:

No backup; if something on the one unit goes, there is no heated/cooled air anywhere in your home.
Impossible to differentiate the electric costs of you versus an upstairs tenant.
Longer ventilation runs to the second zone, depending on home design; the second zone needs vents and returns run from the main unit to a usually distant part of the home. These longer runs will not be as efficient.
To supply ample heated/cooled air to both zones at once, the unit must usually be a bit beefier than a comparable single-zone system, to compensate for inefficiencies and maintain desired airflow when both zones are being ventilated.
You cannot have the heat on in one zone and the A/C on in another. The entire system must be set to heat or cooling, meaning if your tenant likes it substantially warmer or cooler than you do, the ability of the system to provide the proper temperatures can be limited at times.

A dual-unit system will have two separate single-zone HVAC units each controlling one area of the home (upstairs-downstairs is common in new construction, as is having a second HVAC for a new addition).

The upsides:

Having a backup system means at least some of your house can still be heated or cooled in the event of a failure of one unit.
Vent runs can usually be shorter, as the units can be strategically placed in new construction for the most efficient ductwork layout to each zone.
Each unit can be smaller than a single unit for the whole house would have to be, meaning the exterior units can be located in tight spaces or more easily hidden behind shrubs.
By hooking the second HVAC along with all upstairs circuits to a sub-meter, you can easily determine (and sever) the electrical costs of an income property.

The downsides:

More expensive to put in than a single unit, even a dual-zone. Two 1-ton units will cost more than a 2-ton.
Maintenance costs also increase; with two units the MTBF of a single unit in the home is halved, meaning on average you'll have to call the repair guy twice as often.
Less centralized control. There are some nice thermostats that can communicate wirelessly (usually as part of a whole-house automation/alarm system), but basically each unit will be its own completely separate system and to balance the temperature in the whole house you must go upstairs and down to fiddle with settings.


Why doesn't my dimmer switch work after installing LED bulbs in my ceiling light?

This is common with older dimmers and LED's. Old dimmers use a small amount of power to activate the switch (almost always silicon controlled switch called an SCR or thyristor) the small amount of power is enough to light the LED's.
You need a dimmer that is LED compatible I would get a quality name brand dimmer as not all dimmers are created equally.


How to keep the house cool from inside by covering the window panes?

I see you're writing from India, so the standard US answer of installing light blocking cellular blinds may not apply to you.

Consider using a thin material that reflects light instead of absorbing much of it, such as aluminum foil.  If you want it to look nice, you can stack the foil between a light piece of paper for the outside (so the neighbors aren't blinded by the reflection) and cardboard (for rigidity).


Waterproof seal between two submersed pipes

You might try using a no hub plumbing connection, it's like a rubber pipe with a metal band around it.  I'm not sure if they come in 4.75 diameter though.

something like this


1) Yes, it can be replaced with any hinge that has the same offset and radius even if it doesn't match the exact visual design.

2) It looks like this one:  Full Overlay Soft Close Clip On Cabinet Cup Hinge HG1019


Why does my garage door opener only click when the button is pushed?

Check that the door is not unhooked from the lift mechanism. On some door systems there is a rope that when pulled releases the door from the motorized lift. This would allow the door to be opened and closed by hand. If the door wasn't reconnected to the catch then the motor when activated would spin and not lift the door.


Can a switched single speed fan (no light) be converted to 3 speed via different toggle switch?

I bring up variacs as my first reason to meet current code if your AHJ doesn’t have the exceptions my state now has for devices known to cause tripping.

If the fan is a single speed or has only 1 winding, there are only 2 ways I know of to make it variable speed. The first is a variac - this is a variable ac transformer, kind of expensive and larger than most single gang boxes used in homes. The good part is since fans are low current devices there are models that can do the job and fit in a double gang box ( but be prepared for sticker shock).
The second and more common method is an electronic speed controller, much like a light dimmer but rated for motors. These will usually fit in a single gang box and cost less than variacs.

Now the part that most don’t know. Electronic controllers create harmonics on the electrical system and may cause nuisance tripping of both AFCI & GFCI breakers, I have not had a variac cause a trip and years ago only used them 2x when a contract required less harmonic noise than could be done with electronic controls. Luckily, my state allowed circuits that had troubles with GFCIs and AFCIs to be omitted if dedicated. I have installed several more variacs for a homeowner that wanted cleaner house hold power with cost not being an issue. I had to add stops for the low speed side of the variac so the fan would spin plus a little buffer, but it works quite well on the fans I installed with a variac rated at 5 amps when the fans were 3-4 amps max, but they are larger and require a double gang box. The pump actually required a much larger box but this is about fans so speed can be varied by electronic means (solid state) or with a variac, a variable AC transformer.


Yes, there should always be cement for outdoor mortar applications.

Lime is a cementitious ingredient in mortar which will increase workability and water retention, resulting in increased bond strength. Lime also increases plastic flow, allowing mortar to take up slight movements without apparent opening of joints.

Requirements for hydrated lime for masonry are specified in ASTM C 207. Other types of lime should not be used in masonry construction.

There are 2 types of HYDRATED lime: 1) Type S, and 2) Type N.

Type S is Special Hydrated Lime which has high plasticity, high water retention, and a maximum of 8% for unhydrated oxides.

Type N is Normal Hydrated Lime and is not recommend for mortar applications.

Mortar bond strength increases as mortar flow increases.  The consistency of mortar must be controlled for brick / block suction or absorption limited. This is done with optimum ratio of high plastic lime (Type S) and use of well graded sand with no voids.

Cements come with and without air entrainment. (Air entrainment reduces bond, so usually not used in mortar.) Type I cement is usually used for mortar, unless high early strength is required due to cold weather...then use Type III. Masonry cements are proprietary and mixes are seldom discussed. You’ll usually just see that it complies with ASTM C 91.


How can I remove the drain flange from the drain assembly?

Buy or make a close quarters hacksaw.  If it has a pistol style handle, turn it around so it's opposite the teeth.  Carefully cut a slit in the flange, then grab the flange with pliers just as in your second picture, crumple it in on itself and push it down through the hole.

While you're working on this cover the drain tube with a sandwich bag using a rubber band to hold it on, to prevent sewer gases entering the room.


I would take it to mean that he either installed a new tank on the toilet bowl, or re-installed the existing tank.

This might be done:

If the tank was damaged in some way.
If the tank was leaking at the tank-bowl union.
To change the look of the toilet, without replacing the entire unit.

It could also mean that he installed a new flush, and/or fill valve assembly.

This might be done:

If the toilet was leaking.
If the toilet was running intermittently.
If the toilet was not flushing properly.

NOTE: There are various types of fill and flush valve assemblies, these are simply two of the more common types.


The safest approach is to actually cut the wall open and see what you are really dealing with. While it involves drywall repair and paint, it also doesn't involve heavy fragile expensive items being hung based on conjecture. While the wall could be brick, it could also be studs (steel or wood) with resilient channel (somewhat age of building and local building practices dependent) - one of the features of resilient channel is better sound isolation, which is good for a party (common) wall. But some places a party wall is nearly always going to be 18" or more of masonry for fire purposes.

The wall shown here uses resilient channel, which is what I was looking for an image of, but also some other techniques that may well not apply.

You may find that you can "see" the resilient channel (or furring, as it may also be) better changing the studfinder direction (turn it 90 degrees, and sweep up and down)


It's a balancing valve, and you have probably got the guts of it confused with excessive unscrewing. You may be able to sort them out if you undo the BIG nut and take them out. if not, a heating professional can.

The purpose of this type of valve is to balance flow between heating loops, so it will also need to be re-adjusted once reassembled (or replaced.) The lack of a handle is intended to keep it from being fiddled with by the average homeowner, as it is a "set and forget" device if adjusted properly in the first place.

Hint for the future - bleeders don't face down.


What bracing is appropriate for this shelving?

I agree, you should use some "L" shelf brackets UNDER the shelves to the vertical supports. There are many you can chose from, but even the cheap gray 10 inch ones would work fine. Remember, if you use 3 supports, the load is divided, so each bracket will only be holding apx 1/2 of the load resting between two supports.  If you mount them over the shelf, rather than under the shelf, the load will be supported only by the mounting screws rather than transferring the load to the upright post, for that reason, I'd stick with mounting them under the shelf.  Your shelf as pictured without braces will most likely split at the line where the mounting screws are, as the grain of the wood follows that direction.

BTW, nice workbench!  Good luck


How do I ground this metal switch faceplate? (UK electrical)

Just don't do it if you have a differential breaker and/or the switch plate is double-insulated. If you haven't a differential look at the plate and see if there is a ground connector, if so ground to it.


NO , a ball valve only will control flow. If you even allow a slight orifice the size of a human hair with time the chamber pressure would be at 800 psi.

I would look for a used scuba regulator they can handle up to 3000 psi and the first stage around 135psi , their actual output pressure can be adjusted a little.
I mention this because I used an old scuba regulator to charge my potato guns.
Other possible regulators C02  I think they are 1200psi with the output being adjustable, oxygen or acetylene regs,
Try Craig’s list or eBay for used regs possibly from a welding shop call and ask.
There are lots of options that will be much safer.

Do not use a valve you need some kind of regulator.


Do I need to shut off the gas to my water heater, when I shut off the cold water intake to fix a leaking hot water faucet in my basement sink?

It's not a bad idea to turn off the gas while you work on your water system as the water level inside the tank may become unacceptably low, or pressures to high if you shut all the valves off; triggering the T&P relief valve.

You must turn off the gas or power if you have to drain the entire system and the tank.


How to finish room with protruding concrete ledge/foundation?

We had an almost identical situation in a former garage that we refinished to be an office. Our contractor suggested this and we liked the result: he installed a piece of wood about an inch out from the concrete, putting insulation between them and keeping the wood a consistent and level height - a little higher than the concrete. I can't remember if it was pink fluffy insulation or spray stuff. Then a shelf about 6 inches out from the wall - nice and level by being a bit up from the concrete and supported by the vertical wood, and there's insulation under the shelf too. The whole thing is a good looking clear pine and is well varnished.

Looking from the side gives an idea of the distance from the wall:

The shelf runs around the entire room and is remarkably useful for something so low. It hides all the lumpy bumpy aspects of the concrete and while it's not something you see everywhere, no-one has ever mentioned it so it can't be that unusual.


How do I soundproof a room behind an open doorway with little room for a proper door?

You can add a pocket door-use an outside type door that way is is more dense. Mount it on a track inside the laundry room and slide to open or close. Whatever gap is there between the wall and door cut some trim or dense foam to fill it in..if you use the foam attach it to the door...If you do not have enough wall space maybe you could use two solid pine folding doors but take off the hinges and
 add top slides. And match or paint to the kitchen area......They will look very nice..


What can I do to a chain link fence to make it dog proof?

Coyote rollers, won't harm children like barb wire, is effective, and can be home owner installed.

  A Coyote Roller is a patented ribbed roller that mounts to the top of your fence.  When a coyote or other predator tries to jump your fence to attack your pets, it requires them to grab hold of the top of a fence.  With Coyote Rollers in place, the animals will fall right off of your fence and will not be able to jump over.


Changing out old two wire switch to new three wire grounded switch

You can't anyway.
Kitchen lighting is not allowed on kitchen receptacle circuits.
By putting a receptacle on a lighting circuit,  you are creating a code violation.
Now, if the kitchen wiring was done at a time before this was required, and permits were pulled, then the kitchen wiring as it is now is "grandfathered".  It's allowed to continue in service even though it would never be approved today, because it was legal at the time.   This is not license to modify it.
Modifications must meet Code at the time they are installed. Today, kitchen/pantry/dining area receptacles must be on 20A circuits which are dedicated to serving receptacles in those areas, with no other loads allowed except for auxiliary electric loads on a gas range, and a wall clock.  There must be at least 2 such circuits, but the inspector would surely let you slide on that if you were only installing a couple of additional receptacles.
Since the circuit you are speaking of has a hardwired light on it, you can't add a kitchen receptacle to it.


Sewage smell in my basement - Where is it coming from?

You want to make sure that all your traps have water in them.  If your floor drain is dry, it will leak sewer gas.  Also, if you have natural gas or propane, check to make sure that there are no leaks.  Natural gas can smell like sewer gas.


1/2 inch conduit would accept 4 #10 thhn /thwn  conductors for your original  30 Amp design.

3/4 inch would  accept 4# 6 thhn / thwn for your 60 amp design, but not certain of your local code, where in some places, it will require 1".

What size panel is your MAIN  panel ? If it's 100 amps, I believe you are beyond the design limits. If your MAIN panel is 200 amps, you'll be fine with a 100 Amp Sub panel, as long as your MAIN it isn't loaded up with other stuff ...

The OTHER thing you're going to have to do when you wire that new sub panel...

REMOVE the tie ( jumper ) between the ground and neutral in the sub, if it has one..
...Unlike your MAIN has got, any sub panel must have that ground-to-neutral jumper removed.

This is for when you hook back up your existing 115v. circuits, if there is ever any faults to ground, they do not travel up the neutral that is in your sub panel.
 All ground faults will travel through the grounding conductor in your sub to your main.


Does anyone know what this rubber thing I found on the tub in my dishwasher is?

I asked on reddit's whatisthisthing and they identified it as a rubber foot from my IKEA cheese grater.


Can a modern washing machine pump high enough to reach a sewer line that's 43" above the ground?

No.  Well maybe it can, but it shouldn't.
RTFM
If you check the documentation that came with the washer, it should contain the maximum drain height.  Generally, the maximum height is around 39" (99 cm).

Newer washers often have a drain hose permanently attached, which is designed to make drain installation fool proof. The supplied drain hose shows you exactly how high the washer can discharge.
Raise the washer
Depending on the machine, and whether or not you're already using a pedestal.  You may be able to raise the whole machine up, to accomplish what you want.  The maximum height is not height above sea level, it's height above the bottom of the washer. So if it's possible to do so, raising the machine up a few inches (safely) might be the solution.
If it's a front loading washer; and you're not already using a pedestal, you may be able to purchase (or build) a pedestal to raise the machine up.  If not, you may want to think about building a raised floor to raise the whole area up.
Keep it up to code
International Residential Code (IRC) says.

International Residential Code (IRC) 2012
Chapter 27 - Plumbing Fixtures
SECTION P2706 WASTE RECEPTORS
P2706.2 Standpipes. Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1067 mm) above the trap weir. Access shall be provided to all standpipe traps and drains for rodding.

Which means if you connect the drain hose to a standpipe, the standpipe has to be at least 18" above the point at which water will begin to flow from the trap. So your 43" height, could quickly become 61".


If you're refering to the sort of caulk-like stuff that runs along the edge of the glass, it's called 'window glazing putty', sometimes 'window glazing compound'.

You can find sites online that cover how to re-glaze a window; you may want to remove the glazing from the rest of the window so you can get a clean edge all the way around, and a matching color:

http://www.hereandthere.org/oldhouse/windows-glazing-steps.html (has pictures)
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infwindows/infgla.html (also covers removing old glazing)


How to whiten a white Ikea mattress cover?

Try Clorox2, or Hydrogen Peroxide, or Sodium Percarbonate or Oxyclean, (it's all the same stuff) instead of chlorine bleach.   Chlorine bleach reacts with some brighteners to turn them yellow or purple.


I assume that is a pic taken standing over the storm drain looking down into it.  How interesting that someone put a sewer cleanout in there.  Don't mess with that cleanout unless you want the problem to get worse real quick, I am sure it has nothing to do with handling rainwater.
Do you know where this is supposed to exit?  Is it running underground to an outlet downhill somewhere?  If you don't know where it goes to you probably shouldn't mess with this one.
If you know where the outlet is you MIGHT be able to put a pump in there and run a garden hose with a pressure nozzle on it down into there with the water on full and the pump keeping the drain empty and if there's no sharp bends you might be able to clear the blockage out if it's just mud.  I would start with the exit end, though.  If you cannot find it that doesn't mean it's not there, more likely it's a victim of years of neglect and is buried.
Sometimes these things ended up running into a sewer line or sometimes into an underground "french drain"  To do this job right if you can't find the outflow you need a sewer endoscope and a sewer line locator the tooling alone is a couple grand.


A drill would be a good investment, lightweight general purpose cordless drills are available at a surprisingly reasonable cost.

The joint compound plan might work alright. You don't state how big the original hole was; if it is large (like, larger than the new thermostat) then you might have a tough time patching without something behind to "back up" the patch. Consider bridging the hole with a strip of stiff material, like a strip of drywall or even a wood paint stir-stick. You would slide the strip into and beyond the edge of the hole on one side, then pull it back so the strip overhangs both sides of the hole on the inside (I usually put a screw through the strip in the middle, to serve as a temporary handle). Run a screw through the wall and into/through the strip on both the right and the left, to pull the strip up against the back of the wall/hole on the inside, then remove your makeshift "handle". The attachment screws would have to be driven below the wall surface so you can patch the screw holes at the same time you fill the main hole with joint compound. Smooth and sand, then use plastic anchors to secure your new thermostat.


I believe the fan was probably damaged and that was the reason it was disconnected the forward switch position may have fried or the wire to the motor, in the reverse position the wiring was good but the motor was bad so once you energised the circuit what little magic smoke that was left in the motor escaped , time for a new fan your wiring is probably fine as fans are low draw motors a quick inspection will tell if still usable they probably are but since you will be updating the wires it really won't matter. You should not connect the neutral and ground together this can be dangerous until the new 3 wire upgrade is done don't connect the ground wire to the circuit. Or as new code allows pull a ground from another location from the same panel. If the box is metal connect the fan ground to the box many older homes the metal boxes were grounded on the back side.


Will I be able to use the Unifix tool to repair a floating floor that was glued on the edges?

It's not fun or easy, but it can be done.  Good answer was provided here How can I replace a board in floating wood floor?:

From the previous answer:

  You'd have to treat it like a hardwood floor t&g repair:
  Run a circular saw down one side, staying away from seam at least the thickness of the tongue, with depth set to board thickness.
  Repeat #1 along the other side.
  Connect the top and bottom cuts across the board, either with a chisel or OMT (Oscillating multi tool).
  Carefully cut into corners to free the 4 border pieces, as necessary. They may just pry out.
  Trim the bottom half of the groove off. (I like to use a table saw and fence). You should be able to wedge it in with the tongue intact, though a small bottom bevel might assist it.
  Sparingly glue along edges of existing tongues and the new board edges and weight it down, as necessary.


It does sound like the biggest opponent the AC is facing is the large picture window. I'm guessing it's just not a well insulated and/or not high-e glass and just letting too much heat in.

For starters, close the internal blinds. If that isn't enough, consider some exterior blinds. These aren't terribly expensive and shouldn't be something that the landlord would be against.

There's different options for this. One is roll blinds:

This is likely the most practical commercial solution.

But you can get fancier as well with things such as shutters:

Possibly more expensive (more complicated to install) would be an awning:

Or a window trellis/arbor/pergola:

Before you invest in ANY of those, however, I'd do an experiment and cover the outside of the window for a few days with butcher paper or other large opaque material.

If the AC can keep up just fine with that window covered, then one of the above options is likely the easiest way to solve this problem.

Other things to consider would be:

install ceiling fans. This does two things: one, creates a breeze to lower the perceived temperature and two, helps even out all the air circulation in the house.
check that there are proper returns throughout the house. If there's only one main return, that can make it really hard for the hot air to get recirculated through the AC. Ceiling fans can help with that.
make sure it's been checked out by an AC professional. It could be that it just needs recharging.


Well, it's not really a glorified capacitor, but yes, it will work both ways. Of course, so would recycling the crappy fridge and getting one that isn't turning on every 15 minutes and doesn't make a huge spike when it does turn on. That can't be helping your power bill much.


Kitchen sprayer only uses half the water, how to fix?

Sounds like it is a problem with the diverter. It could be clogged, rusted, or even damaged, and as such, may either need to be cleaned (soaking in vinegar may help), or outright replaced.

There are a couple types that Moen seems to use, so which one depends on your model. There is a collar-type vale:

And there is another type with a smaller inner valve:

You'll have to open the faucet to get at it (how you do this again depends on the model), and then pull out the diverter with pliers.


Consulting expert for remodelling plans while doing the work myself?

I'd look for a sympathetic licensed general contractor. Preferably a 1-3 man show, preferably an older guy/girl, as a larger firm will probably have no time/interest in this kind of job. If there are things you want to (or have to by law) sub out, the general might be willing to share info on appropriate subs.

The only thing Ikea/HD types would be useful for is the actual kitchen layout (cabinets, appliances, etc). They are unlikely to be helpful with anything structural.

Try to make friends with your local 'authority having jurisdiction', aka the permits office. If you show a willingness to learn how to do things to code, they're apt to be helpful. YMMV.


Routing cables under the house with raised perimeter foundation

Drill up into the wall
Drill on an angle
You could try and dill up from underneath at just the right angle. Though this might be difficult, since you may not have much room to work and getting the proper angle could be impossible.

Use a flexible bit
In some situations, there might be enough room available to get a flexible bit into position from below. Though again, space may be limited making it difficult.

Drill down
The more appropriate way to accomplish this task, is to drill from the top down. Start by cutting an access hole in the wall. About the size of an electrical box will do. This might be convenient, if you're installing a receptacle or something in the area. If you're not installing a device, cut the hole large enough to give yourself plenty of room to work. Patching a large hole in drywall is just as easy as patching a small one (sometimes easier).
Once you have the hole, use a flexible drill bit to drill down through the bottom plate. Use and alignment tool, to make sure the bit is in the proper position.

Flexible drill bit placement tool

Flexible drill bit

Man using a flexible drill bit


Can a cold air return be shared by two rooms?

I see no problem in doing that, as long as the return duct is sized big enough for the both rooms. I would think it would need to be at least the size of both room supply ducts combined.

An alternative would be to use a Jumper duct.


Are there any dangers to sistering a joist with oversize lumber?

The reason that joists are sistered using the same height of wood is simply space; generally there's no extra room. If you've got nothing below and there's space then there's no reason you can't use a taller piece of wood. Things to keep in mind:

Spanning as much distance as you can so you transfer the load as evenly across the original joist. If it's too short it's going to still bow, just in a different spot, and you'll add additional stress on the existing joist.
Don't weaken the original joist by drilling holes or cutting
You'll need to raise the joist into the correct position before you glue and nail, otherwise you'll just solidify it in a sagged position!
Prepare the surface of the old joist properly for gluing if you want it to take


Mystery valve on hot water line from water heater

It's not exactly like mine, but it looks like it's probably an overpressure (no temperature) type valve (aka pressure relief valve), and it should not be dripping unless you have overpressure - so a constant drip means it's likely in need of replacement. (Or possibly just cleaning, if you get lucky; don't expect to get lucky.)

Indeed, it looks very much like this adjustable one.

The line on the cold water line could be intended to feed a hose bibb.

Given that it's probably intended to relieve pressure events before the P/T on the tank so that the P/T on the tank does not become leaky through frequent activation, you probably could replace it with a pressure tank.


How to deal with large 4-gang switch boxes and the need to wire together numerous wires (>4)?

How many wires depends on the nut, and not just the color of the nut. I have red wire nuts that will only take 5 #14 and others that will take 6 #14 (don't recall the #12 numbers off the top of my head and the boxes are not here as I write.) The listed configurations are laid out in detail on the side of the box/container of wirenuts, and you don't get to be creative if a combination is not listed.
Looking on the website of the de-facto standard manufacturer in the US market (no affiliation other than I use them, and pay full price to do so):
Ideal® Wing-nut reds are listed for 5 #12 - their plain Wire-nut reds are listed for 4 #12, the "B-Cap" variant is listed for 5 #12
In any case, if you have more to connect than your particular wire nuts are suited for, divide them up and then add a pigtail between them (which you don't have to count for box fill, but you DO have to count at each end for wire nut capacity.)


The infamous Calypso was discontinued because of design problems. The pump assembly is also part of the water input assembly. The pump gets full of lint and stops the tub balancing function. After five service calls we got rid of it. GOOGLE it and look for the complaints.


Make sure you wait for someone with CEC knowledge. It seems some provinces include water heaters as heating equipment and apply CEC 62-114(6) and (7), which I think eliminates the 125% continuous load requirement for the wire if the wire is at least 80% of breaker. So 18.75A in a residential application would allow 20A wire, maximum breaker of 25A.
In the US the Installation Instructions are part of NRTL Listing, which override the NEC. The Installation Instructions from WHI (Rheem) say 25A breaker and #10, so we would have to use #10.


What's the best way to attach timber cleats to stair stringers?

You're supposed to figure that out from the load table mumbo jumbo.

TABLE 9.14 LAG SCREW (BOLT) CAPACITY FOR SINGLE SHEAR CONNECTIONS (LBS.), page 69, Chicago deck code, PDF.

3/8ths (M10) is the middle of the road; it's better than using 1/4" or 5/16". Use stainless steel fasteners. You must pre drill your holes for cleats. Ideally it's an actually cut stringer; notice how cleats aren't even an option.


The bottom drawing is for European 3-phase "wye" power with 3 legs of 240V and a neutral in the middle. All connections are made hot-neutral.

The top drawing is for European single-phase (aka 3-phase "wye" where your house is only provisioned with one of the phases).  It has one leg of 240V and neutral.

The middle drawing is made for North America/Japan/Philippines "240V with neutral in the middle" (note the 60Hz assumption which is correct everywhere but southern Japan). Both hots have to be switched, so they change out to a much stronger single relay that switches both legs.

Not shown: the drawing to wire this up 208V/240V "delta", which you might do in New York City, Brazil or anywhere with wild-leg delta service.  That wires up just like #3 except the 6 heater terminals are rearranged G U V U W W to put the 3 heating elements in a triangle (delta).

The reason for so many terminals is so they have the maximum flexibility to support a wide variety of configurations. In fact there is nowhere in the world you can't wire this.   You only need to hook up 2 wires (other than ground) and also assure the relay is 2-pole and the heater jumpering is correct.

Do not continue if you see a 3-pole relay, you may think "extra pole, who cares" but the 2-pole relay handles larger amperage!

Keep in mind yellow/green is always ground (as is green or bare) worldwide.


Should sags in my floor be repaired before refinishing hardwood floors?

If you determine that repairing the unevenness in the floor is necessary, then yes, you should do that before any other work. You'd hate to put in all that time, money & effort to refinish the floors this summer just to discover that you've got to tear it all out to get at the joists to redo them next summer...


How do we properly clean a tumble dryer?

I would wipe down the inside of the dryer with soapy water to remove any chocolate that could come in contact with your clothes as this should prevent any of your clothes from picking up stains.

As for the chocolate that might have made its way past the drum, there's no easy way to remove this without disassembling the dryer, but I wouldn't really worry about it too much.  If you were to take apart your dryer, you'd likely find all sorts of debris in there.


8 AWG solid EGC in raceway for 100 amp subpanel

This isn't an issue because you're dealing with an EGC
As it turns out, while using a stranded wire would have pulled more easily, you are in the clear with regards to your solid 8AWG copper equipment grounding conductor Code-wise.  This is because NEC 310.106(C) (i.e. where your NEC 310.3 cite moved to in newer NEC editions) yields to other parts of the Code when they say things about what kinds of conductors are allowed in raceways:

(C) Stranded Conductors. Where installed in raceways,
conductors 8 AWG and larger, not specifically permitted or
required elsewhere in this Code to be solid, shall be stranded.

and NEC 250.118 point 1 explicitly permits the use of solid or stranded wire for an equipment grounding conductor:

250.118 Types of Equipment Grounding Conductors. The
equipment grounding conductor run with or enclosing the
circuit conductors shall be one or more or a combination of
the following:
(1) A copper, aluminum, or copper-clad aluminum conductor. This conductor shall be solid or stranded; insulated, covered, or bare; and in the form of a wire or a busbar of any shape.

So, relax and enjoy a drink in the meantime, as you have absolutely nothing to worry about.


How can I trace the path of plumbing lines inside walls without cutting holes?

Metal detector? Thermal imaging? There are utility locators that pick up a signal conducted through metal by a transmitter. Even with non-metallic pipe sometimes you can remove the faucet and push a wire down the pipe. Acoustic detection via electronic means is also a method used.

There are contractors the offer location services that have sophisticated equipment. Their fees are proportionate to their equipment costs... high. It's likely much cheaper to cut and patch holes.


Why won't my lights light up, even though there's power to the lights?

It was a bad switch; it's all good now. It was the last thing I checked.


The one that reads power gets the black (or brown) wire.  The one that does not gets the white wire.

If it's on 24x7 at this point, you accidentally made a mess and it will take more to untangle it.


Hard to control water temperature in shower

I figured out the problem: insta-hots, or what are called "tankless" hot water systems, have a pressure drop across the heat exchanger. If water is fed to both the cold and hot line at the same pressure, then there will be a pressure differential between hot and cold, the cold being higher. If both supplies are going to a common valve, then the cold will back into the hot supply. This can cause weird variations in shower temperature. For example, if a shower is started and the temperature is set, it will creep colder and colder because over time, more cold water creeps into the hot water line.

To solve the problem, it is essential that the pressure of the hot water coming out of the tankless system matches the pressure of the cold water system.


do squirrels chew lead-coated copper flashing boots on rooftop plumbing vent pipes

Squirrels can cause many thousands of dollars in damage trying to get inside then if they do the mess and insulation both thermal and wiring they chew on and make nests out of. In the Pacific Northwest (the area I live) metal roof jacks and boots are the best to reduce damage but if they think they can get in they will really work hard at making a hole to enter. I have not seen much difference with copper or galvanized both are better than the PVC type that the little varmints can go through in a day. The best defense I have found is to make sure the jacks are sealed down with asphalt sealer (I don't think they like the taste). Lead and lead coated materials are getting tough to find in my area because of the push to remove lead from building materials. With that said if there is a small section that is loose they will try no matter what the material is or that is what I have observed. A good nasty tasting sealer and metal is the best option I have found with asphalt working the best for me.


Can I use a T5 HO lamp in a non-HO luminaire?

HO bulbs prefer more power than regular bulbs.  They will work on a normal ballast, but won't give peak performance.   A normal bulb in an HO ballast will be overdriven to its destruction.

What, you say? How can this be?  You are accustomed to constant-voltage devices - plug a nightlight into a 20A circuit, no problem.  Fluorescent tubes are current devices - like LED chips but even moreso.  They are non-linear and do not act like a resistor.  They act more like a dead short and will draw unlimited current.  They need external ballasts to limit their current to spec.  The ballast will push through spec current whether the tube can handle it or not!


Trim molding will not hold a standard hinged door. It would take a skilled carpenter to move a hinged door outward.

What part of the machines is preventing them being pushed further back? Could it be simply the dryer vent hose is interfering? Compare the specifications on the machines to the dimensions of your space. Is the washer hitting your back baseboard?

If it is just one projecting area on one machine, consider making a recess in the back wall, if a stud is not in the way (maybe not a good idea if this back wall separates your unit from the adjacent unit).

If you cannot shift the machines further back, either the machines are too large for a standard space for compact w/d or your space is non-standard.

If the former, return the machines as unsuitable for a standard space.

If the latter, remove the hinge pins and remove and properly store the door, but leave the hinges in place so the door could be rehung later. Hang a heavy curtain over the door opening, or install a hanging, sliding "barn door" over the opening.

EDIT My experience with doors is installing six pre-hung interior doors so I can imagine how I would proceed to move the door outward by 1 inch, but it would be a job and I couldn't say how it would look in the end. I suppose a skilled carpenter would make short work of moving the door out, but the end product might still look a little  strange.


Biokleen (biodegradable detergent) soaked into drywall

Mold is already everywhere (how do you think it gets around so quickly?) and its danger is severely overblown for most people. Scrub with a mild detergent, dry things out well, and don't worry about it. Prime with a stain blocker and paint if you like.

There's hardly a house on the planet without a little mold somewhere in it. A gallon of wet certainly didn't destroy your wall or put your health at additional risk. It's cases with massive amounts of moisture over a period of time that cause concern.

Based on your description you may simply have concentrated cleaner collected on the wall and floor. Again, scrub it up with mild detergent.


How to remove faucet on American standard with no screw or cap

Modern American Standard 4" center-set lav faucets with lever style handle typically have a set-screw at the base of each lever in the back. It may be difficult to see the small screw hole as there is usually a little cover plug that needs to be pried out with a small screwdriver or similar tool. You will need a hex wrench:

Another style (less common in my experience) simply requires a firm pull upwards for handle removal:

If this works, here is a link to the complete installation manual.


Electrical conversion from European to USA

This is not a smart way to go at all, except for devices that only need a cord conversion (the inputs are already rated and labeled for 240V 50 HZ input as well as 120V 60 Hz.)

Some, but not all, TVs and DVDs might qualify. Virtually no kitchen appliances do, and you will waste a great deal of money trying to convert adequate power to run them. Save money on moving and not trying to tilt at windmills and sell them before you leave...


Replace the breakers

I'm not precisely sure what's going on here, but replacement breakers should cure the wobbling issue, once and for all.  It might be an issue with old TQL (or early THQL even?) breakers not fitting properly into a new Q-line panel (as documented here), or it could simply be that the line-side jaws on your breakers are not in good condition any longer -- either way, the cure is the same.


Trying to hang my self-made gymnastics workout machine in my garage

The first example to support looks like a cement anchor to me. The second would be better in my opinion because you can distribute the weight acrost several joists or trusses with the supports across 2 or more points I don't think wou will have a cracking problem with the stucco but I do think a single point may be strong enough but crack the stucco, plaster or whatever covering, so I would use that option. Several 1/4 lag bolts should support the boards to the ceiling. I like predeilling so the joist dosent crack. Large fender washers will provide additional strength since it will be a vertical pull down on the wood.


Managing water entry at garage door during high winds on rainy days

It sounds like you could simply cut/have cut drainage channels from the problem areas to the front of the slab, or do that and also have a trough drain installed along the front of the slab. I'd start with the simpler/cheaper approach first - simple job with a diamond blade and a grinder or saw.


There are a few ways to accomplish this. On the cheap DIY side, you could cut a few pieces of tight fitting cardboard (stack them and tape them together) to create a plug. I would punch a couple small holes in it and make a rope handle to pull it out.

On the more convenient side, you could get a expanding plug. The link shows a 6" plug... perhaps that's the size of your damper?

On the industrious scale, you could locate the duct and install a couple more dampers in series. Having a few dampers should effectively restrict air flow.

You could also potentially build a plug from from a bag and a can of expanding foam. Here's a video about a commercial product (instapak). Obviously you can do this yourself... but you might need a couple of practice tries to get the amounts right. Essentially, you would put the bag in the area that you want to seal and spray the foam in the bag and tie it off. You don't need or want air in the bag when you add the foam. Most cans of expanding foam come with a nozzle. You just want to insert the nozzle into the bag, spray it, and tie off the bag. Then you could set a board or something on top (or in front) of the damper so that the foam doesn't expand into a muffin shape.


Does wire running up an exterior wall require conduit?

A UV resistant type of non metallic called UF (underground feeder) is allowed to be used exposed code requires the cable to be protected , above 8’ is normally considered protected by height in the national electric code. If the cable height is above 8’ it could be routed along the siding but would look like a diy hack job. Since conduit would be required for the rise to 8’ why not do the run in conduit or pull the line inside in the wall along the roof truss to the soffit and out, that would be the pro way to do it and you may have a receptacle you can tap closer, a few small holes in the drywall to patch , this would be my suggestion.

Note low voltage is not restricted as much as power.


What type of insulation can I use to insulate around my furnace exhaust?

"Rockwool" or mineral fiber - looks sort of like fiberglass, but good for higher temperatures - most fiberglass is coated with a plastic product that smokes off (helps to bind the glass into a batt) otherwise I think fiberglass would be as effective, but given that (the plastic stuff smokes off) rockwool is the material of choice where you need high-heat resistance.

If the gap is very regular, there is a fiberglass product that would take the heat - stove gasketing - a rope-like product available in several sizes.


Presuming the place is built right or something close to normal & expected. You would drill a small hole (drinking straw or pencil sized) in the dripping area of the ceiling so an Endoscope Camera could be inserted to catch the leak in action. This would be repeated probably just 2 more times until the leaking pipe is found.

When drilling the hole you'd want a bucket underneath to catch any puddled water up there or just have towels on the floor around a bucket & insert a short bent piece of wire to direct the water down into the bucket.

Then, you rip out the entire ceiling & permanently fix the pipe & that means DO NOT use some screw-on piece of garbage that fake plumbers have been pushing for decades. The Landlord must be involved in all of this & must be the one to have the above performed by a Real Professional Plumber.


Each truss manufacturer have specific requirements for drilling holes in their joists. You’ll need to verify the JOIST TYPE (structural type based on flange size, species, etc.) and SPAN with the manufacturer and then determine where they allow holes.

However, here is an installation guide

https://www.bc.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/UK_Install_Guide_A2.pdf

from Boise-Cascade which I’m sure will be similar to most manufacturer’s installation instructions. If you notice in the upper left hand corner, holes are to be drilled in the center (the neutral axis) and size depends on distance from the support.

These joists are specifically manufactured based on loads, spans, etc. and modifications to the joists should be done to the manufacturer’s instructions....random assumptions about drilling 1 1/4” holes just 1” from the bottom flange is not recommended.


During what construction era was plaster installed over metal lath?

The area I live and work in saw quite a bit of expansion and development in the period between 1920 and 1960.  I see plaster over expanded metal quite a bit in older buildings, and it does present some challenges.
My guess based on what I've seen is that it was used mostly in the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, and more in commercial and multi-family buildings than in residential construction.


6" faucet hoses seem to be unavailable, what do I do with an old design?

Ace Hardware has 6" supply lines on tap. The bad pun is free.


Bosch fridge/freezer (B22CS / Linea 300 series) began chiming and temperature flashing on the freezer side

I found the solution after digging up the appropriate manual for the Bosch B22CS30SNS)]2 online. Something was preventing the freezer from cooling, which triggered the temperature warning.

The temperature warning signal switches on if the freezer or the refrigerator compartment is too warm and the food is at risk of thawing.

Here are the steps I took to resolve the issue:

Exited alert mode: to do this, all I had to do was hold the alarm/lock button for two seconds or so—this showed me that the actual temperature inside the fridge and stopped the blinking
Reset: turned off the unit by pushing the power button on the top right of the door frame (opened the fridge and it's in the corner, near the hinge), waited a minute, and powered back on
Pulled out the large ice tray (just in case) and emptied out most of the ice (there was a lot)—when I put it back, I made sure it was fully inserted and flush
Got rid of any items that might have been blocking the freezer door—I didn't see anything obvious, but my freezer was pretty full, and I think this may have been the culprit
Closed the freezer fully, making sure the door wasn't even slightly being pushed open by an item inside
Just in case, I set it into "Super" mode which rapidly cools down the freezer or fridge over 6 hours
To do this, I pressed freezer and then super, which activated a quiet but audible change in the cooling system

Fortunately my food had not thawed yet and now it's on its way to being frozen again.
⚠ Careful with these fridges, because it isn't clear when the door is not fully closed
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You should fill the hole, it's not that large, so you could just handle it with patching plaster or setting compound.
As for the banister, you are not supposed to anchor into plaster, ... for this reason. It doesn't hold well, and can crumble or tear out.  You need to secure anything that needs more than construction adhesive into wood framing.


What is required for seasonal maintenace of a heat pump?

Your list is pretty good.  Check/clean flame, filters, condensation drain and coils.  I would also listen for abnormal noise and check both cooling and heating performance by measuring the indoor and outdoor temperature splits.  I would not go measuring capacitors unless I suspected a failure.


Home Electrical AC Wiring Layout & Estimation Questions

Don't fall into the "neutral is ground" myth.

Electricity flows in loops.  It takes 2 wires on every circuit.

Hot AND neutral are the two partner wires that carry power to your appliances.  Expect to use them in roughly equal proportion.

You absolutely must not treat neutral as a "common/chassis/backplane" and simply have a bunch of circuits' hots share the same neutral.  That will set your neutral wire on fire.  Which, granted, won't do a whole lot in conduit inside concrete, but you will be forced to rewire at the least.

Safety ground is a totally different thing.  It is a safety shield.  Current never flows on ground (except during fault conditions, of course).

While it's true that neutral and ground are connected at the main panel, don't think they are somehow the same.  The purpose of the connection is to a) keep hot/neutral from floating at thousands of volts above ground, e.g. due to a transformer leak.  And b) current flows in loops, and that allows fault current that got on ground somehow, to loop back to neutral - and flow enough amps to trip the breaker.

It's possible to do isolated systems where H-N is not connected to G at all.  However that can cause problems.

Because of this, safety ground can be shared among multiple circuits (the ground wire must be large enough for the largest of the circuits sharing it).  As such, you need as much ground wire as you have conduit length.

If you use metal conduit -- wait, you can't use metal conduit in concrete! It will corrode.

As far as hot wires, they don't give out medals for saving wire.  Use as many hot wire colors as your country's electrical codes will allow - this will be very helpful when trying to distinguish one wire color from another.  I own 8 colors of hot myself and 2 of neutral.

You are not subject to the special case in about half of the Philippines (the legacy USA territories), where power is unusual. (two hots, each 120V from ground. Effectively, neutral does not exist in those territories, and this is a big bag of Not Your Problem.  Just be aware those territories do exist, and about half of Philippine advice will apply there.  So if you see stuff about 2-pole breakers and 2-pole switches, that is that, and doesn't apply to you.


How to remove grime from shower handle hole? Can't remove handle for repairs!

Rinse it with vinegar (let it stay overnight to dissolve the mineral deposits), then use a good light to examine the head (perhaps a slot head?)


Pool cover efficiency versus intactness of cover

It's crazy complicated. But:

If you are concerned with heat-loss due to evaporation, then reducing the exposed surface area will help. The rate of evaporation is proportional to surface area.

If you are likewise concerned with maximizing heat-gain from the sun, then that too is proportional to surface area.

Finally, heat loss due to convention is also proportional to surface area.

So everything you care about is strongly affected by surface area, thus maximizing the amount of water that is covered is a good goal.

It's impossible to estimate how important this will all be as far as actual water and heat loss/gain - you haven't given enough information in your question to judge that.

The unanswered question is how much heat and water loss your pool is experiencing, and what is preventing it from losing more. You might alter the rate of cooling/water-loss without actually affecting the ultimate final temperature and total water-loss.

Example: If I have a leaky bucket that I fill up with water once, it doesn't mater how quickly the bucket drains because once it's empty there isn't any more water to lose. If I am constantly topping up the bucket, then fixing those leaks is more important.

If I were you, I'd conduct an experiment. Leave the cover totally off for a few days and measure whatever you care about (water level, temperature, pool-heater-energy-consumption). Then do the same with the cover on, and perhaps again with the cover 1/2 on. That should give you enough information to make a gut decision on how much the pool cover is helping.


How do I support a deck that spans a driveway?

You can install bracing from 4' down on the post at a 45degree angle to the bottom of the header that is so panning the driveway. Use 1/2" x 6" lags to make the connection thru the new 4 x 4 bracing. Make sure that the brace doesn't interfere with getting a car in and out of the garage


Fixing patch up that has gotten 1st coat of paint

You need to sand and then re-coat it will be a bit tougher to sand with the paint on there but it will come off.
To do a really good job sand just until you see the paper, wipe down with a wet cloth to remove the dust, then apply another coat of mud, I suggest a 12” wide knife or wider for best results you don’t want a thick coat. When put on two thick it shows more shrinkage so a quick sand and fill again may be needed, I shine a light on the work prior to painting , put the light close to the wall and look to see shadows on the other side of the patch. Lightly sand and recoat a wider patch will be less noticeable when you have a bump to hide, when I was a kid and learning it would take me 3,4,5 coats to get it good enough for my dad, today I usually get it in 2, sometimes 3 coats don’t rush it use light coats, And a light to show imperfections, they will be there the trick to hiding them is wider and uniform patch then a light spray texture can make it really look like a pro job.


Electrical Ceiling Lights: Torsion vs Friction Clips Installation Differences

Whether you use the torsion springs or friction clips depends entirely on the type of housing you're mounting the trim plate on. If the housing has a spring bracket in it like the picture below, you would use the torsion springs. If there is no spring bracket, only a few holes or slots for a straight spring, then you'd use the friction clips to secure the trim plate to the housing.

I like the torsion springs. they do a better job of hugging the ceiling. If there's a little play in the mounting of the housing, the friction clips are harder to push up for a tight fit. Plus they are easier to pull down and adjust if necessary

(Note: picture from utube)


Can I use four-wire cable from the panel to create a two-circuit duplex outlet?

Cannot do it. Nosirree.
Cannot use a MWBC
As you have stated it in your question, you are describing a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC).
Singular.
That is not 2 independent circuits.  It is a multi-wire branch circuit.
Further, it has a serious defect in that it is taking power from unrelated points on the panel.  Code absolutely requires that MWBCs be both opposite-phased, and handle-tied for common shutoff (which in the real world means common trip most of the time). This defeats your purpose.
Even worse, if you simply put the breakers "wherever" on the panel, then over the years as you rearrange circuits in the panel, you may accidentally wind up with both MWBC legs on the same phase.  That means instead of carrying only differential current, neutral would carry the sum of currents causing an overload of the neutral.  Neutrals don't have breakers.  On almost every panel type, handle-ties force the breakers onto opposite poles, so use of handle ties averts this danger. (Usually; looking at you GE).
So your MWBC absolutely requires either a 2-pole or handle-tied breakers. 2-poles definitely have common trip, and handle-tied breakers usually have common trip (not guaranteed but very likely from handle motion).
For the circuits to be independent, they need to each have their own neutral wires. But wait.
Cannot put 2 independent circuits on the same yoke
That receptacle there, with 2 sockets, is on what's called a "Yoke". That means a single device of any kind - switch, pilot light, GFCI, whatever, that mounts through the usual mounting screws.
So, suppose you run a second neutral. Now you're splitting the receptacle and having 2 circuits each with its own neutral, one powering each socket.  You can't do that either. Or to be more precise, the circuits cannot be independent if you do.

210.7 Multiple Branch Circuits. Where two or more branch circuits supply devices or equipment on the same yoke, a means to simultaneously disconnect the ungrounded conductors supplying those devices shall be provided at the point at which the branch circuits originate.

When 2 separate circuits serve the same yoke, again they must be handle tied, and again this defeats your purpose.
There's a very good reason for the handle-tie requirement.  Someone servicing the wiring will typically plug a radio into one of the sockets, and trip off breakers until the radio goes silent.  Then turn everything else back on, and go to work on the wiring.  Think about it. That procedure will leave one of the sockets "hot", unbeknownst to the maintainer.  So again those 2 circuits must be handle-tied.
Why would anyone ever put 2 independent circuits on the same yoke, when the MWBC approach does that better?  AFCI/GFCI.  They don't make 2-pole AFCIs and 2-pole GFCIs are expensive.  Often the only way to provision GFCI/AFCI to such a split recep is to have separate neutrals.
Socket size must exactly match breaker size if there is 1 socket
As manassehkatz noticed, you are speccing a 20A breaker that is feeding exactly one 15A socket.  Nope.  Breaker size and socket size must exactly match, NEC 210.21(B), so you must use a 20A socket or a 15A breaker.
"But people use 15A sockets on 20A breakers all the time!" Because there is an exception for 15A sockets when 2 or more sockets exist on a circuit, which is the usual situation.
You have no option that will allow you to split a yoke.
and maintain independent trip (in practice).  Further, you wouldn't want to anyway, because anyone looking at your setup would think you made a mistake by putting both power supplies on the same yoke.  (and they'd be right if you followed Code).
Your only option is to fit a 2-gang junction box so you will have 2 yokes, and run 2 independent circuits with either dual /2 cable or /2/2 cable.  (can't use /4 cable since you can't re-mark blue to be neutral).  At that point you'll have 2 sockets per circuit and 15A duplex receps are fine.  If you really want 1 socket per circuit you can get 20A simplex receps, but their rarity means cost.


As the frame is still "rough" (whatever you mean precisely), I will assume that the basic framing is there but not the finishing wood.

So, add another 2" stud on each side then finish with the wood and extend the wall surface as necessary. Use a strong glue and screws so they never move.


The code doesn't address microwaves as a specific appliance, but NEC 210.23(A)(2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place limits equipment to 50% of a circuit when shared with lighting or other equipment not fastened in place.
So if it's fastened in place, which would likely place it on a designated kitchen circuit, a shared kitchen circuit would have to be 20A, so a microwave would not be able to exceed 1200W without requiring a dedicated circuit.


Repair of antique standing lamp light fitting (UK)

The last time I was in Broken & Quick they still had those light fittings - as I nearly got two to make a couple of desklamps.


How can I secure a door with a window right next to it?

There is a product called Window Security Film which is a thin (a couple mm) film that adheres to the window and makes it exceptionally difficult for someone to break. Many lock smiths/security companies can install it. Here's a video of it in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYdVK3BqPfk

This is a duplicate of my answer from this question.


What precautions should be taken before draining a pool for cleaning?

After seeing several pools come 1-3 feet out of the ground and close to 10 have there bottoms heaved up and broken I would never drain a pool in the winter (Northern California) You may be able to drain 1/3 of the pool and add fresh water I use the vacuum and pump it out of the pool this way you are making use of the water not just dumping. Then hit it hard with a shock treatment 2x or 3x the normal amount. Make sure to backwash your filter 1-2 times a day. I used to use 1-2 gallons of liquid chlorine with the shock treatment it just seams to work better. Also a clarifying agent like clear blue or aqua blue will help. I have cleaned pools in the past that were black with several inches is silt on the bottom. If you do use your vacuum to dump the water make sure to check the pump strainer basket and remove leaves and twigs that are picked up off the bottom.


Best way to mount a wooden tabletop to a flat surface

A relatively unattractive method would be to use small right-angle brackets. You could also attach a cleat to the sides of the drawer assembly, driving screws into the drawer assembly horizontally and into the desktop vertically. Less unattractive that way. The more expensive and more sophisticated method would be to use a pocket hole drill jig:
Lowes Pocket Hole Drill Jig
which would require sufficient thickness of wood in the drawer assembly sides.

There are ramifications to each of these methods depending on your restrictions regarding visible screws. Even a simpler method of drilling into the desktop, fastening vertically, then installing a plug and refinishing the surface will mean screws that are not seen, but may not meet your requirements overall.


First off that appears to be cheap PVC (Vinyl) sheet, not linoleum (linoleum is a natural product made from flax seed).  And the term 'grout' may set someone on the wrong path helping you.

Your faceless home store will have a variety of vinyl sheet goods glues and seam sealers for this purpose.  The seam sealer is probably the best bet as it comes in the smallest sizes, and you need just a tiny amount.

Dry it out first.  Open the windows, and get some heavy objects to keep it flat while the glue out-gasses and dries.  Use saran wrap to protect the heavy objects.


Difficulty/Cost to repair drywall from tv mount?

If you have the willingness, then you can do it yourself. And, you'll get experience to use in the future.

Well I started describing what you need to do, but it was getting too long. And, I realized that you can find lots of video on this if you Google "drywall repair". So I think your best bet is to do that. Seeing it done is a lot more informative that reading about doing it.


Should I cover this gap under my front door?

Yep, caulk it and paint it with paintable caulk and exterior paint (after a good "surface prepping"). Use a dark shade to help hide foot scuffs.

Don't caulk inside the metal threshold, it probably needs to be able weep water. Just caulk it where it meets the wood, and all around where the wood abuts the building, even if it's not cracked, yet.

The problem is not only with water infiltration, but air, as well with those lil' buggers.


What smart device options do I have for poor lighting in living room?

There are lots of plug-in receivers, or controllable outlets, for the various home automation systems. Then all you need is a compatible transmitting switch, possibly battery operated.

Example: I currently have an X10 setup (cheapest home-automation product in all senses of the word cheap; adequate for playing with for now) in my living room where a remote sends signal to a receiver, which puts the signal onto the power line, which carries it to a plug-in on/off/dimmer module, which powers the swag lamp hanging from the ceiling. I could have several other receivers set to the same channel if I wanted other lamps to respond in unison with this one.


Can I cut a piece of newel post base sticking out of slanted ceiling?

I would not. It was probably left long like that because the attachments (bolts, screws, nails) are right where the slant is, so if you cut off the tail piece, those fasteners are now too close to the end of the wood and will break out.

I would just create a larger box around that post end, going all the way across to the wall, so that it just looks neater.


Why did one of my recessed lights in a group stop working?

Recessed can lights have several issues you have already checked the center contact, now there are 2 other things to check. First I would look for a thermal overload, these are a small sensor that is inline with the hot conductor to the center tab on the light socket, if a larger lamp was used than the fixture was rated for this is usually the cause, the overload is temp sensitive and opens when hot, these sensors don’t last long if a over sized lamp was used in the fixture they are usually small some about the size of a pea, many about an inch long and smaller than a pencil in diameter, to check this the circuit needs to be turned off and an ohm meter from center contact to the black wire should read close to zero if open the overload has failed and needs to be replaced (sometimes cheaper to replace the fixture. The other thing I find on older fixtures is the heat for all the years has baked the wiring and with some vibration one of the conductors opened at the fixture or the splice to the power that should be in a box ether on the fixture or connected close by.


How do I mount this non-standard wall plate to a completed drywall wall?

You can use a low-voltage retrofit mounting bracket, which is the same size and has the same screw dimensions as a standard outlet box, but without the "box" part.

Because it's low-voltage, you don't need the mechanical protection of the box like you do for high-voltage. It also gives you a lot more room to work with, which is very nice for bulky connectors like the HDMI and VGA ones you have.

After you cut the appropriate sized hole in the wall, you mount the bracket and it clamps down onto the drywall. Then you can run the wires into it and attach the faceplate, just like you would with any box mounted in the wall.

Here's what it looks like in the wall (this one is orange, but otherwise the same thing):

Note, there are also low-voltage mounting plates for new construction, which are basically the same thing but go up before drywall and attach directly to a stud.


It doesn't take bad gas or ethanol to crud up tiny carb jets and orifices. Any gas gets old and any gas dries into varnish over time, especially that which has been mixed with two-stroke oil. Proper storage is critical.

Seek out an exploded diagram or a how-to and disassemble your carb. Make note of all screw settings (count turns to fully seated) and take some phone pics and clean everything thoroughly with solvent. It'll run better than new.


It sounds like you have inadequate venting for your toilet.

In theory, all drains have a trap to prevent sewer gasses from entering your house. In order to drain properly, however, and prevent a trap from fully siphoning every time you drain the fixture (excluding how the toilet is special because I don't think it's relevant here), it needs ventilation.

This picture shows where vents are necessary.

The vent prevents the rushing water from pulling a vacuum and making it harder to flush or drain the fixture.

Now, you mention this is only a problem when it's windy out. Air moving over a pipe can create a lower static pressure in the pipe, and the vents often go out through the roof.

This may make it harder to flush since less air pressure is available to prevent the draining water from pulling the vacuum I mentioned before, so it will appear to back up slightly.

I haven't tried this before, but putting an angled piece of pipe on top of your roof vent may help solve the problem.

This is what I mean:

The red piece going over the existing vent could help prevent the wind from lowering the pressure in the pipe as much.


How can I locate the pump in a wet open-vented central heating system?

There must be a cable going to the pump from the controller, so you may be able to find it using a cable tracer.


Can I pull a common wire off an evaporative cooler transformer relay?

I'm concerned about @ThreePhaseEel's comment on how the Nest will respond to the switching 24VDC that the diode bridge will provide. Although I'm confident that would be an appropriate location to pull a common wire from, I'm going to construct my own circuit from more standard parts.


Which side of door should I install a threshold draft excluder?

After looking at the installation guide (direct link to PDF), it needs to be fixed to the door face that closes onto the stop beads (which are usually attached to the inside face of the door frame), or put another way, the opposite face from the hinges pins.


How many concrete piers do I need to support a tiny house (12x28 and 20feet high)

Given the size of the piers and their anchor depth and the fact that you can use metal (ibeam) cross beams, you can definitely do just 4.    Remember when building on piers, more is not better (unless we are talking large commercial building).   When you add more piers you are allowing for a greater future issues with leveling based on heave.
Now that was just the "minimum".
In real world home building you would probably have three piers on the long side - so 6.


How should I tile under kitchen cabinets?

Why would you want to tile first, then lay cabinets on top of the tile? This ensures two things:

The person in the future who wants merely to replace the tile while not touching the cabinets will be cursing your soul to eternity. Remember, this might be you cursing yourself, if for some reason it turns out you need (or merely really want) to replace the tile.
That you will spend more money on tile than you need to spend. Tile is expensive, so why throw money away underneath a large block of cabinets?

Place the cabinets first, then butt the tile against them. Yes, you will be cutting some tiles to fit. Tile cutters are not difficult to use.


Run a fluorescent fixture with fewer lamps?

Newer electronic ballasts run fine with lamps removed. Many replacement ballasts can be wired for several combinations of lamps, such that a 4-lamp ballast can be wired to a 3 or 2 lamp fixture. This will be shown right on the label and wiring diagram.


It is perfectly fine to use the paint/primer paint in the place of paint.

If you go with the same brand, you should be able to get the color code off the lid and any hardware store that sells the paint will be able to mix the same color again for you.


I am switching out a 8 gauge aluminum wire on a 30 amp 2 pole breaker for my dryer less than 25. Can I use 10/2 copper? '

The #1 threat to your family is the 3-wire connections to range and dryer.
This wiring method was allowed due to intense lobbying by the appliance industry.  But what those connections do is BOOTLEG ground off the neutral wire. It was always illegal everywhere else, but this was delayed until 1996 for dryers and ranges due to their lobbying.
The problem with bootlegging ground off neutral is if the neutral wire gets loose anywhere, even just a socket pin, then it becomes a 100% certainty that the chassis of the appliance will be energized at 120V. Touch it and anything grounded (like the washer, or a sink, or another 3-prong appliance) and BLAMMO.
You must admit this is a "freshman" attempt at improving safety, which is under-supported by good research.  You're on the right road though.
Oh... and next time, deal with a real electrical supply house.  Home Depot is a terrible place to buy almost anything.  Their selection is limited, their stocking is terrible, and their prices are ridiculous. (they once bothered to undercut other businesses, but now that you're convinced they're the best deal in town, they stopped undercutting and are just rooking you. CostCo is doing the same thing BTW.) As things were, since they were out of 10/3 it would've been wiser to go to 8/3 (you're always allowed to upsize).
Anyway, replace both the dryer's cord and the receptacle with NEMA 14-30 type, and also remove the bonding strap on the dryer, which is responsible for bootlegging ground. Very important, that!
The heavy aluminum wire is fine, but...
Obviously you've found some articles on the Internet that rips up aluminum wire.  There's validity to those, as regards small 15-20A branch circuits such as to lights and receptacles, but it wasn't aluminum's fault.  Aluminum lugs happily take any wire (that's why your panel uses them) but copper lugs do not like aluminum wire.  In the 1960s in response to a copper shortage, they hastily approved for alumiunum use a bunch of outlets and switches previously designed for only copper.  Those copper lugs refused to play well with the aluminum wire, and there were serious problems at the terminations.  Also the installers were poorly educated on use of aluminum wire.
Mind  you, heavy aluminum feeders have never been a problem.
Since then, every single thing about aluminum has been changed.  A new wire alloy was made specifically for branch circuit wiring, called AA-8000. (the old AA-1350 alloy was straight up power-line aluminum, yes, the power lines are aluminum).  The approvals were canceled and a new standard - CO-ALR (R for Revised) - now applies to switches and receps.
Now, your #8 feeders to dryer and water heater were wobblers: at #8 they are in the gray zone between the worrisome "#10-12 small branch circuit wiring" and "#6 and larger reliable heavy feeder".  I would treat them as feeder; make sure they are terminated properly, then don't worry about it.
Each appliance
For the water heater, my recommendation is to double-check the connections to the Al wire at both ends - make sure they are on Al-Cu breakers (which were not affected by the CO-ALR standard change)... and on the other end, go into a modern approved terminal that is CO-ALR.  If it's not, no big deal -- just pigtail it with copper, then use an approved aluminum splice.  For mortals, that means an Alumiconn (#14-10), MAC Block (#14-#6), or Polaris splice (#4 and larger).  As long as the connections are clean and torqued to spec, I wouldn't worry about it.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws.  Very important. Most splice failures trace back to improper torque, and even electricians get torques right only 25% of the time (and that presumes +/-20% tolerance, which is pure luck, so basically nobody has a calibrated arm.)
Of course with the water heater, you now have that 10/2 cable you improperly used for the dryer.  That has to come out.  If you take it up carefully, you can reuse it for the water heater, as 10/2 is legal there (re-mark the white wire to be a hot wire; water heaters don't need neutral).
For the dryer and range, the deal-killer is the 3-wire connection.  So we definitely will replace the dryer's cord and receptacle with a 4-prong NEMA 14-30 type, and rewire the range as appropriate. This includes removing the neutral-ground bootleg jumper from both range and dryer.  What wire do we use?  It's legal to retrofit a ground wire, so you could continue the old aluminum 3-wire in service (as I advise on the water heater), IF:

The cable was a legal type at the time it was installed, meaning either a) an insulated white neutral, or b) SE cable (neutral webbed around the hots).  AND
The socket is CO-ALR rated, or, you pigtail with MAC Blocks.

However given that you already know the drill, and the cost of Cu 10/3 is not extreme, you might just replace it with that.  Remove the 10/2 carefully and use it for the water heater.
You cannot retrofit a neutral or second hot wire, nor can you retrofit on stuff you just installed... so the 10/2 has to go.


Wiring two motion sensors from separate locations to control a bank of lights in between both?

Wire nut together the motion sensors so that they are in parallel and will then so provide a path to the light if either is switched on.

Here is a wiring diagram (minus the grounds that must be pulled along):

Blacks are hot, red are travelers, and the gray are your neutrals.