Running circuit and generator hookup in same conduit?

Sharing the EGC is fine

No matter how many circuits you run in a single raceway, you only need one equipment grounding conductor for the whole lot (unless you require redundant or isolated grounding conductors, of course).  This is implied by 250.122(C):

  (C) Multiple Circuits. Where a single equipment grounding
  conductor is run with multiple circuits in the same raceway,
  cable, or cable tray, it shall be sized for the largest overcurrent
  device protecting conductors in the raceway, cable, or cable
  tray. Equipment grounding conductors installed in cable trays
  shall meet the minimum requirements of 392.10(B)(1)(c).

For your use case, a single 8AWG EGC (adequate for all circuits up to 100A) is sufficient here.  Note that this conductor must be a wire in the setup described below as it serves as the separately derived system's grounding electrode conductor as per 250.30(A)(4) and the Exception to 250.121 in addition to being the equipment grounding conductor for both circuits, and the ground wire from the transfer switch to the main panel must likewise be an 8AWG wire.

Derates aren't too big a deal here either

Given that we can guarantee that there are only 4 current-carrying conductors (generator L/L1, generator N/L2, landscape lights L, landscape lights N), we can operate at an 80% derate from the 90°C column in Table 310.15(B)(16), allowing 6AWG THHN to carry 60A, more than you will need for just about any generator you want to use.

Conduit sizing

Given all this, and your (not unreasonable) desire to use Schedule 80 PVC for this wiring run, our 6 conductors (3 6AWG THHNs to make sure we have enough room for a 240V generator hookup, an 8AWG bare ground for the lot, and 2 12AWG THHNs for the landscape lights) add up to 127mm2 of fill.  A 1" Schedule 80 provides 178mm2 of fill, but I would go up to 1.25" here which gives us a nice, generous 320mm2 of fill in order to avoid having to call in a pro to rescue a botched pull job.

As to transfer setups

You are on the right track with breaking your standby loads out into a separate panel -- this allows the use of inexpensive interlocked-breaker type manual transfer switches instead of loadcenter interlock kits (which limit flexibility) or select circuit manual transfer switches (which are awkward and hokey).  It also reduces the size of the equipment required compared to service entrance transfer setups (which are a far too common occurrence with ATSes).

Given all this, I would recommend either an Eaton CH10GEN5050(R)SN if you want a prepackaged solution, or the combination of a suitable main lug Eaton CH loadcenter with a matching "Type A" Eaton CH generator interlock cover, two Eaton CH350SW breakers for the interlocked mains, and Eaton CH branch breakers if you wish to build something up yourself and can get the CH350SW (its production status is a bit questionable at the moment).  If neither of these are an option, a Reliance Controls XRR1006D(R) (or XRR1006C if you want wattmeters for the generator) with suitable 1" wide branch breakers (HOM, QP, or BR, but not THQL or CL) can be substituted instead.  Of course, you'll need a suitable inlet box for plugging your generator in outside as well -- either a L5-20 inlet for 120V only, a L14-30 inlet for 240V 30A, or a CS6365/CS6375 inlet for 240V 50A.

What makes these three solutions special is that they provide a switched neutral between the utility and generator sides of the system, allowing the generator N-G bond to stay intact.  Practically, this means that just about any generator out there can be used plug-and-play with a suitable generator cord instead of having to fiddle around with the generator to pull the neutral-ground bond out of it, as most generators ship with their neutral-ground bond installed for portable standalone use, such as on jobsites.

Other residential transfer setups do not switch the neutral, which requires pulling the neutral-ground bond from the generator to avoid a paralleled bond that can falsely trip GFCI or many AFCI breakers and pose a safety hazard due to current on grounding conductors.

Other notes

You'll need a preprinted warning placard at your inlet in accordance with NEC 702.7(C) that specifies whether your system uses a bonded-neutral or a floating-neutral generator, as follows:

                          WARNING:
            FOR CONNECTION OF A SEPARATELY DERIVED
                 (BONDED NEUTRAL) SYSTEM ONLY

or

                          WARNING:
           FOR CONNECTION OF A NONSEPARATELY DERIVED
                (FLOATING NEUTRAL) SYSTEM ONLY

depending on what you have.  You will also need a label on your main panel specifying where the generator inlet is, as per 702.10(A) -- this could be incorporated into the panel directory, though.  More importantly though, your main panel will need a preprinted warning label or placard, conforming to NEC 702.10(B), warning that disconnecting the EGC to the generator will cause the generator to lose its grounding electrode connection as well, as follows:

                         WARNING
              SHOCK HAZARD EXISTS IF GROUNDING
          ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR OR BONDING JUMPER
          CONNECTION IN THIS EQUIPMENT IS REMOVED
           WHILE ALTERNATE SOURCE(S) IS ENERGIZED.

Last but not least, you will need to ensure that all connections are torqued to manufacturer specifications with an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver as per NEC 110.14(D).


Should my sewage ejector be fully submerged before the float turns it on?

If it is a submersible pump then it is made to be covered to some degree with water.It can be partially or completely covered. The float switch that turns the pump on and off determines the water level.


How do I best display LED strips so the bulbs are hidden from sight?

Cove or crown molding that is below (free from) the ceiling by 2-4 Inches will give a subdued look.  I would place the strip on the wall just below the aperture of the molding (that slit exposed by lowering the molding).  Some installations I've seen use a separate wall trim that angles the light strip up..IE attach a wooden strip behind and below the crown, attach the LED strip to the 45 block.


Ground Jump Cable attached to White on GFCI Receptacle?

The ground being tied to the neutral is a code violation and should be removed. If the GFCI has power and will not reset after that it has failed and needs to be replaced. They are designed to fail in a safe or off position.


Can I wire a transfer switch to two separate primary panels?

The way your 10 circuit transfer switch works is each switch is a single pole double throw (unless 240 then it is double pole double throw). The “common” switch element “load” leg connects to the generator in 1 position and to the service in the 2nd position. For small units wiring is usually remove wire from breaker connect to transfer switch # 1-10 common element or “load” switch leg. If each switch requires power from the service you run a wire from the breaker to the service side of the switch just connected. Run the Generator neutral / ground to the first panel and the second panel will be ok if fed from the first. If the 2nd panel is a separate feed or service not from the first panel you would be creating a ground loop (not allowed). You would need 1 wire from each breaker to the transfer switch and 1 wire from the “load” or common element/ switch leg of the transfer switch to the wire removed from the breaker. If your transfer switch is Buss fed as many larger ones are there would be 1 main breaker powering the transfer switch. Then powering the 2nd panel if fed from the first L1 & L2 must stay the same in both panels (if you put a breaker from L1 on panel 1 and breaker on L2 in panel 2 with a common buss feeder when going back to the service position it will short the main possibly destroying the 2 switches wiring and tripping the main).  If each transfer switch is powered by the branch service breaker this is not a problem.


venting a range hood outside on our cedar cabin

As long as the outside part focuses the air down like this one instead of straight out like this one, you can build a wood enclosure around it. It will still be an "add on" but if you stain it to match the surrounding area it shouldn't be so obvious and won't look so out of place.


Will soldering a cast brass finial to 38mm brass handrail tube discolor either metal?

I have silver soldered this size in the past for a large commercial ice maker. I did use an expander to stretch the copper to be a snug fit in the fitting (German ice maker US made compressor); after silver soldering, I cleaned up the pipe and manifold with a light (400 grit) sandpaper then sprayed with a clear sealer since this was used with food production and inspectors look for anything ugly.
Even though this is just a mechanical joint, I would use a swage tool to expand the copper for a snug fit, or your solder connection will be the same as a grub screw.


Changing a 4 wire supply to a 3 wire plug

Sure. You could use the existing feeder to supply a main lug panel, then install individual 20 ampere breakers in the panel. Use the 20 ampere branch circuits to supply receptacles, where you can connect your tools.

Check with your local building department, and/or a licensed Electrician, to flesh out all the details. You'll want to make sure the job is done properly, and up to current code.


Do metal junction boxes used solely as pull boxes need to be grounded?

250.4(A)(2),(3), & (4) says that "Normally noncurrent-carrying conductive materials enclosing electrical conductors or equipment" should be grounded and bonded. So while you may not have to connect the equipment grounding conductor to the box, the boxes do have to be grounded and bonded. Since you're using EMT, the boxes can be grounded and bonded via the conduit. If you were using nonmetallic conduit, you'd have to ground the boxes some how.


How to clean and maintain a rusted charcoal grill?

Whenever you are painting something high-temp, ALL the coating must be high-temp-rated.  More than that, a grill must be food-rated - you don't want it off-gassing stuff that will poison your steaks!

The way rust CONVERTERs work is they have a chemical reaction that turns rust into a supposedly inert compound, and then, this stays under the paint permanently as a "primer".  In my experience that trick works for about a year, then it blooms even worse.  And that isn't even on a grill, where the heat and condensation will greatly accelerate that!  So I refuse to use rust converters except on things that will live indoors going forward. And as said, this stuff is not high-temp rated.

They make rust removers where they do the same chemical reaction (basically: phosphoric acid) to remove the rust, but then, the magic juice washes away so you are painting bare metal.

By the way, when using any anti-rust chemical, it's best to use physical removal to get rid of any rust possible - that way the chemical isn't wasting its limited energy dissolving rust that's already separated.

The most reliable way to remove rust and get to bare metal for painting is to media blast.  NASA has done a lot of work on this, because somebody (Nikita Khrushchev?) placed the Kennedy Space Center right on the beach in Florida, basically corrosion hell, and they have millions of tons of nationally important steel latticework there.  Naturally, they science'd the heck out of it, and they have a whole website on that at http://corrosion.ksc.nasa.gov ...

Primers make a huge difference, but there is no good answer for primers on hot metal. Even galvanizing, the activity in a grill will melt the zinc, and  you do not want zinc vapor on your food! When we have to hot-work galvanized, we drink milk afterward to help our body attach and dispose of the toxins.

Really your best bet is simply to prep the metal as much as possible, and use grill paint as directed.

As far as how to stop it rusting again, don't leave your toys outside lol.


Why did my humidifier water bottles get discolored inside?

I called the manufacturer today and it was their opinion that the plastic had deteriorated.


I can almost guaranty you that anything higher than 12-16", and lower than roughly 54", will be no good.

Ranges and ovens typically have very specific places that the receptacle can be placed. For a "standard" residential range down low behind the drawer is typically a good spot.

You can mount it above the backsplash/control panel, but what about mounting it to the floor right at the wall line? More than anything I'd check the documentation that comes with the range to be sure.

This is also assuming an electric range with a 50A plug/receptacle.


I would say 1/0 aluminum from the wire size calculator. Any smaller than that and you'll have significant voltage drop.

You'll need 4 wires - two hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground.

There are two ways to go.

Lay a conduit, and have individual wires going through the conduit.  Expensive initial construction, but you can obtain 1/0 wires as individual THWN wires at 50 cents a foot (x4 = $2.00/foot). This also allows adding other stuff such as a switched lighting circuit. You can't put data in a power conduit, though. Depending on the type of conduit, conduit can be the ground, which eliminates one wire.
use multi-conductor cable.  This is a pre-made cable that has all 4 wires wrapped in a single outer sheath.  (this bundle will be rather stiff.)  Trouble is, multi-conductor cables are not made in every size (or not kept in stock by distributors).  What's more, you must use a type of cable (SER, UF, USE etc.) that is correct for your installation route.  This limits your selection further, and you could wind up having to go as big as 4/0 ($4/foot).

I often have to go with a larger cable than the calculator said, because my distributor simply doesn't stock my correct size.  This is only a problem with multi-conductor cable; single conductor THWN is generally available in every size if you're working in conduit.


Which color wire do I connect the switch to on a power cord?

The proper wire to insert the switch into is the black, or "hot" wire. The reason for this is because if you put the switch on the white or "neutral" wire, you will still have an energized plug at the other end that has potential to ground and is no safer than not having the switch at all.

This is all irrelevant though if you do not have a polarized plug or if you force the male plug into the outlet the "wrong" way.

It is probably easier and cheaper to buy a new extension cord with a factory made switch.


Using acoustic foam between two windows to block out noise

"I'm sleeping next to a busy road with a lot of traffic noise"

You and me both. My situation/window is almost identical but I do not care about light because i live in Alaska and i want to block the light from coming in at 4:00 o'clock in the morning.

I did as you suggest, i put 2" open cell foam insulation  ( white with silver foil on one side ) in between the inner and outer panes of glass. It does work for the higher frequencies but lower ones travel through walls ( solid objects ) more readily.  I would like to replace it with closed cell foam to see if it is better with sound and light.

I used to sleep with a fan running for the white noise but now i use a sound generator app on my iPhone. It helps to mask the road noise.


could there be lead in the wood sealant on my 1930s table?

It's possible. Lead acetate was a common drying agent used both to accelerate the cure times of clear varnishes and to chemically produce boiled linseed oil. Given the table vintage there's a high chance that any clear film finish is actually lacquer, which can be removed easily with lacquer thinner. I'd test a small section and see. (Shellac is another popular sealant, but it seems unlikely it would contain lead. In any case, shellac dissolves readily in alcohol.) With any luck you can simply wash if off with the appropriate solvent once the paint is gone.

If all of the paint doesn't scrape off easily your best bet is going with a chemical stripper and taking it all down to the wood. A couple of brands use sheets of paper that keep everything together, which is ideal for dealing with lead. You should definitely avoid heat guns, because lead compounds tend to vaporize at low temperatures. (Hence the use as a drying agent.)


Is this fungus? What should I do about it?

This type of damage is very common in situations like yours. Both the wood and masonite are good sources of food for mold to grow if damp or wet for prolonged periods of time. Do not distress, most molds are not extremely dangerous. Since your area is small you can treat it yourself. Remove all obvious mold with a putty knife and wash the area with bleach. There is an anti-bacterial/mildew bleach available at most home improvemant stores that works well, but regular laundry bleach will do the job. Take the proper precautions, gloves, dust mask, eye protection, etc. to avoid getting hurt from the bleach or inhaling any live mold spores. Don't attempt to sand mold off as that can spread the spores, keep it confined.

Let the cleaned area dry completely. Repeat the bleach wash if any traces of the mold is still visible after it dries. After the area is completely dried, you can paint the area to seal the boards.

Remove any badly rotted wood back to the center of the closest floor joist. Replace the board. If you have only shallow damage on some boards, they may be fine after treated and dried as long as they are still solid and support a normal load.


2 pole 15 amp breaker off of a 2 pole 20 amp breaker

Yes, you can change this branch circuit into a feeder.  Feeders supply subpanels.

Note that feeders do not supply branch circuit loads, which means your existing 20A load will need to be added to this subpanel, weird though that may be.

So your new subpanel will need:  2 spaces for a 2-pole breaker for existing 20A/240V load, and 1 space x 2 for the 120V/15A circuits.  They don't need to be on a 2-pole breaker, unless they share a neutral.

Now, they do make 2-space/4-circuit panels, but those rely on "double-stuff" breakers which are obsolete because they do not support AFCI, which has been required on most circuits since NEC 2014.  Also, some panels do not make the special breaker you'd need (double tied quadplex).  Because of all this, you need to plan a full space for each circuit. Beyond that, you may also want expansion room. Here's what you need in a panel.

Bus rating >= 20A. (This won't be a problem)
Main breaker is required if this is in an outbuilding. Must be >= 20A
Main breaker optional otherwise.  Must be >= 20A
Spaces >= 4 (often marketed as >= 8 circuits)
Accessory ground bar (not included in every panel) *

A 6-space/60A is fine.  A 40-space/200A is fine.  Whatever you have lying around.

You must separate neutral and ground in the subpanel.

You attach the existing 12/3 cable to the ground bar, neutral bar, and 2 main lugs or main breaker.

Fit a 20A 2-pole breaker in this panel, and run cable to your existing load.

Fit either a 15A 2-pole breaker, or two 15A single breakers.  Attach your 120V loads there.

Neutral and ground go on separate bars.  Make the neutral wire long enough to reach the breaker, as this will be required for any future AFCI/GFCI installation.

*. Actually in your case, because of the very small size of the panel, you can simply wire-nut all neutrals together and have no neutral bar at all.   That lets you re-task the bar in the panel to be the ground bar.  No accessory ground bar needed! This would not work with plug-on-neutral panels.


Our top floor is finished/heated. How to prevent ice dams?

The only way to prevent ice dams is to prevent the heat from transferring from the inside space through the ceiling and heating the underside of the roof.  If The heat in the indoor Space  transfers to the underside of the roof it melts the snow  which interns runs down to the eaves and then re-freezes causing ice dams. The only way to prevent heat transference to the roof is proper installation.


What's the goo on the ground cable in my breaker box?

It looks to be anti-oxidant that's gotten...crusty

Normal practice when terminating aluminum wires (such as the feeder to your condo) is to use an anti-oxidant paste or compound when making the connection -- this is said to keep aluminum oxide from forming between the joint surfaces and causing a high-resistance (read: bad) connection.

What you're seeing is likely an excess of anti-oxidant compound from the original installation, that's simply accumulated crud over the years.  You or your electrician will be cleaning it off and putting new stuff on as part of the installation process for the new panel.


Okay so you're looking at 2 cubic yards of concrete (cement is a component of concrete). That is a hellovalotta concrete. If you have no experience with it, that is too big of a project to start with. Secure some experienced help for the pour. This is not optional seriously concrete is not hard to do, but you do not give it a try fingers crossed. Even if you have to pay a general laborer with some experience it will likely save you from having to rent a large breaker and a 10 yard bin.

Preparing it is a different story. Excavation of the work area is not too difficult, takes a bit of time and elbow grease and needs to be done fully before the truck arrives. They bill by time and material usually.

Also have your experienced ringer come an hour or two before the truck to ensure it's ready.

You will almost certainly not be able to match the finish or colour of the existing pad but if that's a problem, jewel stone or some other finish across both can correct that. An expansion joint is recommended. It's available at hardware stores and building suppliers. At the seam drilling rebar dowels into the side of the existing pad will help mitigate any uneven heaving. For a pad that size I'd recommend renting a power tamper and tamp the soil before laying a good 4" minimum of 3/4 run gravel. Then tamp the gravel. Your form will need to be nearly perfect and free of movement. Concrete is much heavier than water and the pressure 5-6" high concrete will make is enough to distort a poorly secured 2x4. Any defects in the wood will transfer to the finished product.

For the rebar grid you can use wire mesh, it's a 4x8' sheet with 6x6" squares. These need to be laid down on stand-offs so the mesh is approximately center of the slab. You can tie it together with zip ties if you can't find the hook loop wire ties that are made for tying rebar.

For the difference in price and the additional strength use 2x6's or even 2x8's you only need four 8' lengths be careful to get very straight pieces free of cupping and bowing.

Finishing with a 2x4 is difficult for a pro to do. You may want to look into a pole trowel.


What is causing the loud, electrical humming noise in my walls?

Your neighbour must be hearing it as well then, correct? Can you hear it from outside?

First culprits I would look at:

furnace fan or forced exhaust fan
forced exhaust fan of a high-efficiency gas water heater
HRV unit
attic fan
bathroom fan

Ideally you or your neighbour could stand in his/her utility room while the sound is happening, and hopefully narrow it down. Turning off one of those at a time may also help narrow it down. Either way, you're going to have to work with your neighbour to solve it, if you are positive it isn't coming from in your house.


Can I infer the amperage rating of an electrical panel from the pump motor rating?

This looks like a 3-phase contactor or motor controller wired for 240V single-phase (or to be more precise, split-phase).

This is not the service panel, it's not the circuit breaker and it has no bearing on circuit capacity.   To get your answer on ampacity, you need to go look at the service panel where the breaker is.

Jusging by the motor amps you are mentioning, this thing should be more than able to handle the draw of your new motor.


Yes, that is fine. The only restriction would be mixing voltage classes. You couldn’t mix line voltage and low voltage (e.g. 12 volts) in the same box.

You can interconnect the grounds or not. If the box is metal and the conduit is not (or no conduit), you’ll need to tie one or both grounds to the box.

Be careful not to mix or interconnect the neutrals or hots.


Much depends on the dryness of your basement.  For most basements, worthy of being made into finished living space, 3 mil. plastic sheeting between the framing and basement wall should be sufficient for this already framed room.  The seems can be stapled to the inside of stud bays.

I'm not a fan of fiberglass batt insulation in basements, due to potential mold and mice issues, and, therefore, prefer XPS; which you could use for the yet to be framed rooms.

Some might suggest foam board between the framing and drywall but I don't care for drywall to be hung on the required, longer drywall screw.  I guess it depends on the thickness of the foam board one uses.  A heated basement shouldn't require much additional insulation as long as the rim joists are well insulated.


Fiberglass insulation that didn't cause skin irritation?

There's a lot of fiberglass that is yellow. I have yellow fiberglass in my attic not dissimilar to this

More people are familiar with Owens Corning and their pink fiberglass (they advertise heavily and have licensed the Pink Panther as their mascot). Johns & Mansville (typically sold at Lowes) is brownish in color

Keep in mind that fiberglass takes time for the fibers to work into your skin. I often don't feel it until I shower afterward


Will this isolating valve allow me to change a radiator valve without draining down?

Yes, that will work.
Just take care draining the rad, as the "water" can come out black and it stains anything :)


How do I diagnose a hot water recirculation problem?

I agree, your symptoms seems to indicate the problem is the recirculation system, not the heaters.

First, locate the recirculating pump.   It could be near the water heaters, or at the farthest fixture from the water heaters.  Your most distant bathroom may be a good place to look first.   Look under the vanity or other enclosed places for a smallish device (size of a closed fist or bigger) with two water lines and an electric line.

It may have a timer that is mis-set, it may be unplugged, or plugged into a dead outlet (perhaps a tripped GFCI).

Other possibilities would be a valve closed either near the recirculator or at the water heaters (if the recirculator has a dedicated return the whole way back).

If none of these lead you to the problem, you may have a defective pump, or a more subtle problem... it may be time to call a plumber.


Hard to tell from the picture, but based on the description, that sounds like a one-way screw. See this page for some more information. Basically, the design is to make it easy to install with a regular screwdriver, but hard to remove, which is what you want on a lock. To remove it, you may need to use a screw extractor - basically you drill a hole into the screw, grab it with an extractor, and then unscrew the combined extractor + screw.


Sink valve replacements, concerning draining water

Often time when you try to drain a cold water line it will siphon from the water heater tank. That could very well be where your "gallons" of water are coming from. One work around for this is to open up other faucets to break the siphon. An alternate is to shut off the valves that let water into and out of the water heater tank.


Repair drywall and protect wires on back of electrical panel

I think your idea of a wood panel isn't bad, but I would go the extra mile here:

Buy a nicer board, a couple of basic hinges, and a knob
Paint the mounted opening white and fix your drywall
Cut your board to be large enough to cover the opening and paint it white
Attach the knob and hinges, then mount to the opening on the side closest to the wall

It looks like a cabinet, but if you slap a simple label of "Electrical" on it, nobody will attempt to use it to hang things, etc. A mere board may be confused for a bulkhead.


Plumbing cuts through five studs. Is ok?

If the wall is non bearing, I would say no problem, the cabinets that go in will keep everything stable since there are more studs past the notched ones.

But what I see is a potential bearing wall, therefore a big problem if it is. Carpenters will not put 5 studs tight together for the fun of it, it would have a purpose, especially if the wall continues past it. Otherwise I would say they made the wall too short and added a few more to make it long enough.


How can window condensation in a leased condo be dried, if I'll be away for 3 weeks, without towels?

Turn on a fan to circulate the air which will remove some of the excess moisture by evaporation.
Change the HVAC filter. A dirty filter will impede air flow.
Turn on the HVAC. This not only cools/heats the room, but also removes humidity.
Get yourself a dehumidifier.


How can I create an air tight seal around pipes?

Solution step 1: Just seal all of the penetrations you can find. If that doesn't help, you'll probably have to start tearing off drywall to get at hidden pipes if you're sure the smell is seeping through gaps between plumbing and the floor.

Solution step 2: Use Spray-applied polyurethane foam. Dow Great Stuff works well. Just be sure to wear gloves!


Would it be up to code to use electrical box extender behind fridge that bulges out (California)?

Throw the box extender ring on there and roll
Since you have a metal box, the most straightforward thing to do would indeed be to toss the appropriate size extension ring on there and go.  You can also use a surface raceway starter box if you'd prefer, but those aren't available in quite as many sizes.  As to Code compliance? Well, Code doesn't care one whit if your boxes stick out from the wall, and even would let you wire a house entirely with surface-mounted conduit or raceway and surface-mounted boxes to match. Its only concern is that the box is not set back into the wall surface in a way that renders exposed wall surface materials vulnerable to sparks.


Towel warmer (hardwired) - electrical code considerations

Mine have always had plugs, if you want to hard wire it use flex , I us liquid tight flex all the time depending on what it is for I may use non metallic liquid tight , most of my systems take a beating and metallic holds up better especially in cold conditions. But this is an option.


You'll want to pull a new cable

The installer who put the existing programmable thermostat in didn't pull the correct kind of cable -- they grabbed a spool of network cable and used that instead.  Problem is, network cables use much thinner gauge wire than thermostat cables (22-24AWG for network cabling, 18AWG for thermostat wire), which means that the voltage drops over the cable become excessive due to the improper substitution, even with the doubled-up wires.

I would suggest pulling an 8-wire, CL2 rated, 18AWG thermostat cable at a minimum -- if you can get 10-wire, 12-wire, or 13-wire stuff, all the better to avoid having to put someone else through this chore again.  The unused wires can simply be wrapped back around the cable jacket at each end.


What type of connection is this to my spigot?

That looks to me like a factory-crimped assembly, all part of the frost-free spigot. It's designed to optionally allow a sweat (solder) joint, as you have with the street ell, or a threaded connection.

I'd de-solder the ell and start fresh from the length of pipe in the foreground. You could also clean up and reuse the elbow if your new spigot happens to have the exact same length and configuration.


Yo Dawg

Who was the electrician? Xzibit???

Because putting a GFCI in another GFCI's protected zone is rather silly.

Speaking of silly...

Refrigerators and GFCIs

You want a refrigerator to last a long time, so they want to hermetically seal the Freon stages so the Freon doesn't leak out.  But how do you seal the piston rings of a compressor?  By putting the whole compressor inside the freon tank.  But then, how do you seal the shaft of the motor? By putting the entire motor inside there too.  So you have a steel jacketed motor swimming in Freon inside an aluminum tank, stuffed in the bottom back of a fridge that's entirely wrapped in steel and grounded.   You have no chance of touching the Freon tank, let alone the motor, and you're not likely to drop it in the sink.  Does this sound like the use-case for GFCI?  No.  No it does not.

Now, an AC induction motor is (as you might guess) a very big inductive load.  Inductors, when disconnected, must continue to flow current, and will increase voltage to infinity until they do. This plays badly with GFCIs, as you might imagine.

This is the classic "safety system versus safety system" scenario, like a low-oil-level trip on a fire pump: saves the $50,000 engine and lets the $50,000,000 warehouse burn down.  The well-meaning GFCI poisons all your food. If the trip isn't noticed by the right people, someone might just reset it and no one's the wiser.

This is a big problem that is well known to the industry.

GFCI does not belong here.  The Fridge should be removed from GFCIs entirely.  In many common freezer locations, this isn't quite legal because of a general Code requirement to have GFCI on receptacles in those rooms.  So this will require a nudge and a wink from the local inspector; or; he doesn't need to know about it.

So change the duplex GFCI receptacle for a simplex plain receptacle, and label it "Dedicated for freezer". That is making a fair effort to assure the receptacle isn't used for anything else, and that will satisfy many inspectors, who perfectly well know the problem of refrigerator GFCI trips.

You should now have a surplus GFCI receptacle and breaker.  What to do with those? Find another circuit that does not currently have GFCI protection, but could use it.

By the way, do the same thing in your kitchen. De-GFCI your fridge.


How to know what anchors to use on the ceiling?

Common ways to find out how the ceiling is constructed include ...

finding an existing opening, e.g. for a ceiling light, and having a good look in and poke around.
asking a neighbour whose house was built by the same building company at the same time
using a stud detector and wiring detector to see how uniform the ceiling is and location of any wires near the surface
drilling a small hole and seeing what comes out.

I believe many 21st century European homes have concrete-slab ceilings rather than traditional wooden joists.


There are many variations on this answer, allowing you to fine tune the results to your liking.

If you have a disk cut from thin plywood or similarly flat material and tighten your locking nuts on each side, you have a knob of sorts. The larger the diameter of the disk, the greater control you will have, as the resulting lever become longer.

You didn't note that the nuts are at the end of the threaded rod, but the above method will work regardless of the location.

If you need a knobby knob, just about any dome or spherical shape will suffice.

Instead of a disk, you could use a hexagon or octagon shape, or a pointed star shape. At the simplest form, a single flat rod with a hole at one end, locked into the nuts provides a lever for adjustment, somewhat like the lever on a ball valve assembly. If a balanced control is required, a longer flat bar with a hole in the center would also work.

In all of the above designs, the force with which you secure the locking nuts will determine how much load the system will handle when you want to make an adjustment. If the load is high, your lever or disk may slip if the nuts cannot apply sufficient force.


Garages are just the kind of place where you go through panel spaces like, as ThreePhaseEel says, a teenager through Mountain Dew.  240V power tool, boom, 2 spaces. EVSE, boom, 2 spaces. Double-stuff breakers aren't even an option because everything needs GFCI and/or AFCI (as of NEC 2020).  I presume you are once bitten twice shy, and are eyeing a nice 30-space panel so you'll never run out of spaces again.

We're all for saving money. But panels are the worst place to chintz out.

Cable/wiring -- you can use NM-B cable, UF-B cable (under NM-B rules), individual conductors in conduit (cable in conduit is legal if your conduit is oversize enough, but usually so hard to pull that you end up calling an electrician).  You cannot use USE cable, but most USE is multi-listed as other types that are legal indoors, so you're all set.

Do you need a main breaker in the sub if the main panel has a breaker? Indoors.  Well first, the breaker in the main panel is mandatory to protect the cable run.  But yes, since you're in the same building, no main disconnect is required at the sub.  (in outbuildings, you don't need a main breaker, but you do need a main disconnect, and that's the cheapest way to do that).

Can I use 1/0 Al for 100A? Yeah, you can use it for 125A actually.  The only gotcha with 125A fusing is that most panels have 125A ratings on their bus stabs, which includes both this space, and the space across from it.  So if you have a 100A across from a 15-15 duplex, that's 130A and that's too much.  A 100A can only be across from 25A breakers max.  A 125A can be across from nothing, so you need empty spaces there.

What you call 2 breakers is actually a 2-pole breaker with handle ties.  It occupies 2 spaces in 2 rows.  So you are concerned with the loads on each row.

Do they care how many subs I have? Nope.  They care about the ampacity of the loads you have provisioned into each subpanel, as determined by relevant formulas.  They also care about the ampacity of all the provisioned loads being served by the main panel.  But I trust you won't be exceeding that.


How can I insert a hanger bolt into wood table leg?

How can I insert a ... Hanger Bolt into wood

Plan A
I would drill a pilot hole in the wood and drive the screw-threaded part of the hanger bolt into the wood by using a spanner/wrench/socket on a double nut on the bolt-threaded portion (the second nut tightened against the first nut using a pair of spanners/wrenches to thus lock both nuts in position on the bolt). Then unlock the nuts and remove them.
You can then screw the legs into the top-plate.
Plan B
I suspect you could also do this by attaching the top plate to the table top, turning the top upside down, inserting the bolts into the top plates and then screwing the pre-drilled legs onto the screw. Using lubrication/strap-wrench/clamp as needed.


How do I repair/prevent woodpecker holes in cedar siding?

Spraying inside the hole with spray foam such as great stuff then after letting it dry using some wood putty seems to be the best solution I've found.

As for woodpeckers, there are typically two possible reasons they've decided to decimate your house. First is insects. This was our main problem, we had a bad carpenter bee problem in our fascia and the woodpeckers were burrowing to get the bees. Take care of the insects and eventually the woodpeckers will go away. Secondly, woodpeckers might have decided to call your house their home, if this is the case usually using deterrents can make them decide to call somewhere else home. The best thing I've found is aluminum foil. As they start to peck on a spot on your house, tape some aluminum foil over top the spot they were pecking. You'll probably only have to do this once or twice and they'll move on if there aren't insects. I have a cedar home and battled the little guys the first 3 years of owning it.

You could shoot them with a pellet gun but they're protected under the migratory bird act making that illegal....


Hooking up switches only with white wires. Will it work?

If the black wire in this situation is the ungrounded (hot) conductor, then it's a possible code violation and unsafe.  If the black wire is the grounded (neutral) conductor, then it's a possible code violation but safe.

If the black wire is the ungrounded (hot) conductor, then you're switching the grounded (neutral) conductor.  This is a code violation, and is not safe.  In this situation, the fixture will always be energized. Touching the wrong part could deliver a fatal shock, despite the position of the switch.

If the white wire is the ungrounded (hot) conductor, then the circuit is wired in a "safe" manner. However, it's a possible code violation, depending on what code you follow. And could be confusing for anybody working on the wiring, which could lead to a potentially dangerous situation.

To determine what's going on, you'll have to take some measurements with a multimeter or voltmeter with the power on.  Always use caution when working with wiring, especially live wiring.

Set the meter to measure voltage.
Touch one probe to the ground wire or terminal, and the other to an exposed portion of the black wire or a terminal where the black wire terminates.
Note the reading.
Touch one probe to the ground wire or terminal, and the other to an exposed portion of the white wire or a terminal where the white wire terminates.
Note the reading.

If you measured 120 volts (or whatever line voltage is) between the black and ground wires, then the black wire is the ungrounded (hot) conductor.  If you measured 120 volts (or whatever line voltage is) between the white wire and ground, then the white wire is the ungrounded (hot) conductor.


How should I fill the gap between window trim and walls?

You will want to clean the area first.  Scrape and moderately sand any peeling paint.  Afterwards use a latex caulking which you can find at any home improvement store.  This caulking is paintable which is the main reason I would use it and also shrinks and expands with temperature and moisture changes.  Once the caulk is completely cured according to the directions on the tube, you can paint over the area.  The better caulk products tend to have more flex giving them better longevity and decreases there chance of pulling away from the wood/molding.

Also, one more thing to add;  What is the cause for the cracking in the first place?  You may get more cracking if there is insufficient insulation between the rough opening and the window frame.  Usually this can be solved easily by spraying foam insulation in between the two.  This would be a more time consuming and difficult task, but may solve the root cause since this type of foam both insulates and seals the gap eliminating moisture and decreasing temperature change, both common causes of major expansion around windows and doors.  The process for this fix would start with removing your trim, insulating with the foam, re-installing your trim and then following the steps above.  This may not be worth the work depending on where you live, etc.... but it is a notable option.


Dim only certain lightbulbs on a circuit?

I used an NO relay at the back of the switch box.  Link here.  The dimmer now dims the LED baffles and the relay always send full current to the non-dimmable LEDs whenever the dimmer is at any level.


Looking at the picture it appears that the twisted studs are all shy of the front edge of the bottom plate.  If none of the studs are proud / protruding into the space, you could just add new studs/nailing edges as attachment points.

I don't see the value of shiming the plates out 1" and adjusting things.  If the studs are protruding into the space, I'd just rip them back with a circ saw and again add some extra studs for nailing edges that are nice and flat.

You have some electrical so I'd probably go 2x4 on flat to avoid having to adjust the ele where the 14/2 is interfering.


Garage door opener installation - hardwired vs. outlet power?

Personally, I'd prefer my garage door opener to be outlet powered so that I can unplug the thing when I need to do something with it, instead of going to find a breaker. Other than ease of disabling, I don't think there is any compelling operational reason to do one or the other.

Of course, if your next opener can't be hardwired, that might be a reason to not hardwire this one (the outlet will already be in the right spot next time).


How to connect grounding wire to gas pipe for 2017 NEC 250.104(B)

There are several types of brass clamps depending on your AHJ. Some will allow acorn style clamps some require the style that has a separate screw for the wire to be secured and the brass clamp on the pipe. Only # 6 is required # 4 is required for concrete encased electrodes but everything else in a residential install # 6 would meet code ( it is ok to use #4 if the clamp is listed for that size).  I am talking about copper wire here.


Will adding a water softener to a house with hard water loosen / dissolve existing sediment?

Funny Enough, I also have a Water Softener that has been working strong for 10 years. When we first bought it, I called Whirlpool about the same question. Because In Southern California, we also had a long stretch of time where we were getting very hard water.

I spoke to a rep from Whirlpool regarding this very question. 'Could the water softener clean the pipes in the house. Or was there specific kinds of pellets, I could use in order to help make that happen.

And the answer is No.

What you have to understand is a Water Softener does 1 job, it removes calcium from your water. There are also pellets that prevent rust within your machine. But not rust in your pipes.

The machine is what removes the calcium from your water. In order to maintain the Water Softener to keep it functioning properly, you need to clean the resin beads that attach themselves to the calcium. The salt pellets that you dump in the Water Softener is what does the cleaning. The salt is what cleans the resin beads. That's why you don't taste salt out of your home faucets.

Is it possible to clean your pipes in a different way? Possibly, but it can't be done with a Water Softener.


I've moved into a new apartment for a while. Is this mold? Is it safe to continue live here?

Looks more like mildew, which is related to mold, but not as dangerous (from a health standpoint). Yes, a dehumidifier could help prevent mildew. I would also look for sources of the moisture, e.g. a clothes dryer that is not venting to the outside, a bathroom vent that is not functioning (or non-existent), water leaking somewhere etc.


Latex paint peeling off oil based paint. How do I apply a new layer of paint?

Painting over a glossy oil paint is indeed different than painting over an oil primer. I just came from a customers's home where the seller did the former - you can literally pull sheets of the paint off the trim. Maybe there are better latex paints that tend to adhere more strongly and you can get away with putting them over oil, but I'd never do it.

Don't take the chance. Either stick with oil-based paint on trim that already has it, or sand and prime first before switching to latex.


The wiring sounds perfectly normal to me, for US standards:

white wire = neutral
black wire = hot (unswitched)
red wire = hot (switched)

When the switch is on, the black and red wires are effectively connected together at the switch, so the voltage between them is zero. If you look inside the box where the switch is, you'll see that it is connected between the black and red wires.

When the switch is off, the red wire is not connected to anything at all, so it shows zero volts to any other wire (because of the finite impedance of the voltmeter).


Construction supply stores in my area just sell ditra by the linear foot (the MSRP is around $6/LF or $2/sqft for the 1m-wide version), so you can just go in and buy a small amount.

If you're relying on ditra for waterproofing it'll obviously be no good at that specific area. If moisture somehow goes through your grout and seeps under the ditra, it'll wick out through your plywood/subfloor anyway so it's not like it's sandwiched or anything. The height difference is easily addressed by using a taller trowel in the uncovered area, and for an area that small, I don't see it as enough to break everything else, even if it's grouted.


How to lightly dull the sheen of latex acrylic paint touchups

You can try adding matt finish powder.  It is not noticeable in color and reduces the shine of paint.  The tough part is the level of shine so start small in adding the matt powder,  then do a test paint and allow to dry.  You must paint this indoors on your tests so get some drywall pieces and if vertical walls, stand the test piece vertical.  Horizontal dries faster than vertical and will affect the test of how much matt powder to use.  Then add more or less for the shine with each test.


Is it OK to vent a first floor bathroom with a fan and a duct running through the basement?

Most wall mount ventilation fans are intended to go thru an exterior wall to a cap.

Your plan will work, if you make allowances to support the duct away from the wall a bit, to make the initial turn down.  Use smooth duct and metal tape for sealing duct sections.
update Be sure to slope all horizontal runs of the duct such that they will drain any condensation to the outside.


Are electric stove/burner elements/coils interchangeable

The answer is yes and no. Some brands have unique connectors but many are generic.  I would verify the wattage is the same and the fit is the same as long as those items are the same there should be no issues.
The connector issue could be a cheap one was used not high temp. When I repair stove wiring I use 900f degree connectors the standard ones you would get at a big box store are usually only rated for 90c max some only 75c these get loose with heat and start arcing until no contact area is left.


Using a sealant to stop a toilet tank leak

You can cut the bolts off with a mini hacksaw. The rubber washers inside the tank are shot, and that's what's causing your leak. You can fix it for $10.

Turn off water (I think you're already here).
Flush and sop up the remaining water in the tank with a sponge (or use a shop vac if you have one).
Cut off the bolts and remove them.
Replace with new bolts and washers.
Refill tank and check for leaks.

Mini hacksaw: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-mini-hacksaw-65341.html

Tank bolts: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-2-Pack-Bolts/1001094052


What are our options for carpeting the basement of a split-level house?

From a comfort and water protection perspective, I think you'll find it beneficial to install a sub floor.  I'd recommend one which allows for ventilation beneath it such as these 2x2 panels you can buy at Home Depot/Lowes

Dricore

This will give you a nice, warm "softer" surface to put your carpet pad on, and help protect from any condensation issues with the cold floor beneath by allowing it a place to form, and then with the proper ventilation openings cut into the subfloor (standard floor vent in the carpet to allow airflow) it'll dry out on its own.


How do I tile over a leveled floor with a feathered edge?

You can easily knock down any irregularity with an angle grinder and a masonry blade. It will generate a lot of dust, so you'll need some good eye protection and good mask.

The answer to your question depends on how planar the surface is and what size of tile you are planning on using. Bigger tile requires a surface that is more planar, while smaller tile can deal with a less planar surface.

Hope that helps.


It looks like you have a white jumper wire connecting the wirenut that joins the white wires with the wirenut that joins the black wires. Assuming that power comes in via one of the black wires, this jumper is allowing power to flow directly to the neutral wires without any load, causing a short circuit. Without further information it is difficult to say how this should be wired, but I can say with some certainty that you should remove that white jumper.


They sell inline lint traps, that can be installed along the exhaust vent.

This should catch most; if not all of the excess lint, and give you a convenient easy way to clean the lint. The lint should be cleaned often (along with the dryers internal lint trap), to increase dryer efficiency and decrease the chance of fire.

Keep in mind, these are recommended to be used with a "booster fan" setup. If your exhaust line is longer than about 6' (1.8 m), you'll have to install a dryer booster fan to safely use one of these lint traps.

If you have a gas dryer, you may not be able to use an inline lint trap. Check with the manufacturer of the dryer, before installing a lint trap like this.

Warning

They sell products like this that have an open front, that "deflect" heat into the house.  These are not a good idea, since they also "deflect" moisture into the home which can lead to mold and poor indoor air quality.


Old house--no neutral wire for Nest Protect?

Which Nest Protect should I get?
Just check the smoke alarm you have now. If it connects to [line voltage] wires, you’ll want Nest Protect (Wired 120V). If it doesn’t, you should get Nest Protect (Battery).

Those colored wires in your ceiling look like 24 gauge thermostat wires, unsuitable for line voltage. I surmise your old smoke directors ran on 24 volts. You need the battery version or you'll have to pull some new wire.
However:
The two brown wires look thicker though, more like 14awg. Do you get 120v across them? If you do, I'd assume the neutral is the one with a stripe.
The red, black, yellow and green wires should NOT be hooked to line voltage (and you shouldn't use them as 'interconnecting wires' if the detector is going to send 120v through them). Get the two brown wires separated from all the others and test them.
Utter guesswork that you'll need to confirm with the proper test equipment:
Black to solid brown. White to brown w/ stripe.


Exterior lights on new siding, no electrical box to screw into, what to do?

I realize this is a little late, but for those reading this for answers:

Make a 4” round hole in the center. The existing hole in the siding box is around 1-1/8”, so if you have a 1-1/8” hole saw, Nest it in the 4” to stabilize. If you want to save money and not buy a hole saw, trace your octagon box (keep reading) and use tin snips to cut out the hole.

Get yourself an octagon box that has a depth close to, but less than the depth of the siding box. Install an NM clamp (plastic or metal, plastic will work better). Space the box off the back of the box so it is flush to the front, screw it down, and install the light.

Tip: Screws can be your spacer. Make a triangle out of three screws that prevent the box from setting too far back. The secure the box with 2 screws.


An option would be a keyhole bracket mortised into each side of the shelf.  Add screws with drywall anchors and hang.


Can any damage be caused to a door and/or its hinges if pushed open with force?

No. A door-stopper isn't there to protect the hinges.

It's just to prevent the doorknob from punching through the drywall.


What size sub-panel and wire do I need for my three-season room?

You don't need that big of a feeder, but if you're going to put in a subpanel, you might as well take the chance to free up space in your main panel

Doing an Article 220 calculation for your feeder alone, with 990VA for the lighting, a 1500VA extra allowance for receptacle loads, and 2875VA for a 10A@230V mini-split (12kBTU/20SEER) at 125% (as the largest motor on the feeder), gives us a 22A feeder, far short of even the 60A that 6/3 NM is limited to.  However, I would run either a 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 Al SER cable (good for a 125A feeder) or a 1.5" EMT (with stud shoes, but also good for 125A tops with 1/0 Al XHHW-2s in it) between the main panel and the subpanel.

This allows us to put in a 125A, 24 or 30 space, main lug panel for the subpanel (a HOM2448L125PGC provides a nice, easy package solution if you wish to stick with Homeline), with a HOM2125 for the feeder breaker. Even with two 15A AFCIs (HOM115CAFI in Homeline) for receptacles, and a 15A double pole breaker (HOM215) for the air conditioner, this still leaves ample room for future expansion, which is a good thing considering that your main panel is basically full: you can get 2 spare spots by pulling out the other 40A breaker from the tankless experiment, but that's it, and you'll need those spaces to retrofit AFCI protection as there are no double-stuff AFCIs.

The HOM2125 replaces one of the unused 40A breakers that originally went to the tankless heater, by the way.  Also note that you will need to torque all lugs to specification with an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver; this requirement was enshrined in Code in 2017 with 110.14(D), in addition to being a good idea lest your electrical system pull a Greg Biffle on you.


What type of glue can be used to stick aluminium to plastic?

some glue that will set as rubber

That would be something like Sugru

  Sugru is mouldable glue. Stick it, shape it and it will turn into rubber.

I don't know whether it will adhere well to aluminium and whatever polymer Apple use for "plastic" feet. However they do say:

  Sugru sticks permanently to lots of stuff like ceramics, glass, metal, wood, and most plastics and fabrics.

(my emphasis)

  The MBP gets hot

According to Sugru:

  it'll stay strong and securely bonded anywhere from the freezer to a steamy hot shower

Might be worth trying.


how to repair Magic Eraser quartz Countertop Damage

Magic eraser is like a fine sand paper, but i think you should be able to polish it back.


Does Landing At Bottom of Small Staircase Need to be 36" Long

Assuming you're doing residential work, the 2012 IRC specifies (source):

  R311.7.6 Landings for stairways. There shall be a floor or landing at the top and bottom of each stairway. The minimum width
  perpendicular to the direction of travel shall be no less than the width of the flight served. Landings of shapes other than square or
  rectangular shall be permitted provided the depth at the walk line and the total area is not less than that of a quarter circle with a
  radius equal to the required landing width. Where the stairway has a straight run, the minimum depth in the direction of travel
  shall be not less than 36 inches (914 mm).

  Exception: A floor or landing is not required at the top of an interior flight of stairs, including stairs in an
  enclosed garage, provided a door does not swing over the stairs.

So yes, your landing depth would need to be at least 36" or the width of your staircase, whichever is greater. The listed exception isn't relevant as it only applies to the top of the stairs, not the bottom. I don't know if this has changed in more recent versions of the IRC; also, your house might not be subject to the same rules, so check with your local inspector.


By mounting the wires into studs the back of the shelf is guaranteed to press evely on two studs
if you mount the wires into the top plates the back of the shelf may press against only ones stud and one corner of the shelf may burst through the drywall.
Remember that the the wire holds up the front of the shelf by converting the downwards force into a pull towards the wall.
This force is multiplied by the slope of the wire, so a fully loaded shelf could be pressing against the wall with 600 punds force at each corner.
So long as your wires (and shelf corners) are in line with the studs this will not be a problem asd the coners will then be pressing on the studs.
The top plate is if anything stronger than the studs. so anchoring to that does not make the shelf weaker.


How do I extract a snapped off PVC nipple?

My solution was not ideal; it might have been less work just to dig out the section of pipe. With that in mind, I followed the suggestion of another site to use a mini hacksaw similar to this one to cut several notches in the body of the nipple (stopping short of the threads). Then I gently pounded in the larger size nipple extractor with a small mallet and twisted. The nipple broke in half, and from there it was a simple matter to pull out the two pieces with a pair of pliers.


Is it possible to wire a 240v outlet so that after I don't need 240v anymore I will have two 120v circuits?

Yes, just be sure to run a 4 wire circuit (2 hots, neutral and ground), if the current garage is attached you don't need extra ground rods. In fact, since you are planning for the future, you might install a sub-panel now that would supply your EVSE outlet as well as other circuits in the future.  As many others have said here, go bigger than you expect to need on the sub-panel, they are cheap compared to upgrading later. It's OK for the sub-panel to have greater capacity than the feed to it...no problem.  Just make sure the breaker is appropriately sized for the wires feeding it.
You can't do this with 2 separate 120v cables, not code allowed.
EDIT:  Of course be sure the wires or cable are of sufficient size to feed the EV charger and future needs. (should have included that with my answer).  I also got ahead of myself regarding needing ground rods or not because I was already thinking about sub-panel. Clearly you wouldn't need additional ground rods if it was just an EV charging outlet.


Installing door in 2x6 wall (drywall only on 1 side)

For #3, I'd buy a prehung door with a 6-1/2" jamb (normal for 2x6 construction) and set the jamb 1/2" proud into the workshop. This makes it easy to add drywall to the workshop in the future if desired. (And personally, I'd skip casing entirely since you're at bare studs in the workshop. If you had to have casing, I'd butt it against the jamb instead of overlap it.)

Comment with any questions...


How can I fix an exterior door that is hard to close?

I am going to make the assumption that this condition has developed over time, rather than been this way since built. I am also assuming you meant an interior door, not an exterior door, since it is to a laundry area, not an entry door.

The easy answer would be to trim the door to fit better. But before we go that route, let's try to determine why the door has sagged. Open the door half way, stand in front of the handle edge, grab the knobs on both sides and try to lift the door. Is there any give?  If you are able to lift the door, which would effectively close the gap you described in your question, then we have a hinge or frame issue. If you are able to lift the door to a point where the door would close properly and notice any give to the frame, here is a fix. Remove the center screw from the jam side of the top hinge. Use a 3 to 4 inch screw of similar finish to replace the one removed. This screw should reach the jack stud and can be used to move the top of the door frame closer to the jack stud, evening out the gap on the top of the door. Adjust this screw until you get the proper fit.

If the above mentioned technique doesn't work in your case, then trimming the door may be necessary. If so, carefully measure how much needs to be trimmed off, scribe a straight line on both sides of the door. Remove the door, secure it on it's side (just so it is easier to reach and work on,) and use a belt sander, plane, or DA sander to remove material just up to the scribed line.  This will give you a nice straight edge. Re-hang your door and enjoy!


Why do CFLs stop buzzing when an incandescent light is added to the mix?

@mbeckish is correct on making sure these are all dimmable CFLs.

If they are all dimmable, then you've found one of the issues with leading edge cut R and RL dimmers. The rise time is so sharp that it causes issues in the electronics, usually the dimmer is what buzzes.

Adding some resistance (an incandescent bulb) to the circuit will slow the voltage rise.

Trailing edge cut dimmers aren't prone to this noise because the front edge of the sine wave is preserved so there's a normal voltage rise. Change out the dimmer control to one the manufacturer specifies for CFL lamps to totally cure the problem.


What paint to use on polystyrene ceiling rose

Most of the polystyrene trim pieces have a white coating already applied.
This can be painted over with acrylic latex.  If no coating is present use a latex primer.
Some suggest using a latex primer first to aid in color uniformity.
Use of oil based paint is not suggested.
Have a look at this article on foam moldings for more info


How do I attach plywood over 2" x 6" deck boards in preparation for a waterproof cover?

The proper answer to your questions is "find the manufacturer of your vinyl and follow their installation guidelines". They can give you answer to all of the questions that you are asking.


How can I remove a stuck circuit breaker from the panel?

First item of order is to identify this breaker panel and find out if there is a national recognized fire hazard danger from the make and model breaker panel you have installed.

Square D, Zinsco/Sylvania and Federal Pacific had failure modes where this happens.

Stop, call a qualified electrician and have them inspect the panel. The bus bar contacts are burned and the circuit breaker may have partially welded itself to the contact. At this point, the meter needs to be pulled if you don't have a 200A main breaker that shuts the panel off. Any force trying to remove the breakers that breaks the insulators holding the bus in place will put you in a potentially deadly or high property damage situation if you do not cut the power before proceeding.

In the case of Sylvania/Zinsco, the aluminum bus bar may burn through from the arcing. The only over-current protection you have will be the transformer fuse which will blow only after the bus bar has completely consumed itself in an arc flash fire if it contacts the grounded panel housing.


Alternative to using a bearing on threaded rod?

Put a thrust bearing in the container and then, on the rod you can put a washer followed by two nuts.  Tighten the nuts against each other so they don't move.  Or maybe a nylock nut.

Assuming I'm understanding your question right.


Figured it out eventually. There is a debugging menu. I ran the drain pump test cycle and then cleared error codes. Rebooted and worked fine


The transformer that steps the voltage down from 120V to 12V is probably electronic and requires a minimum load to work.

Unfortunately there isn't an easy fix for this as the electronic transformer is probably part of the fixture assembly or small enough to fit into the box the fixture attaches too, and replacing it with a magnetic transformer is just unrealistic due to the size requirements of a magnetic transformer.


Why did they hammer nails in half way and bent them over to secure supports?

The nail heads aren't big enough for the holes. At that time carpenters didn't enjoy the vast array of fasteners and installation tools that we do today, so they may have used what was available at the moment. It did the job, right?

~ or ~

The carpenter had intended to replace them with lag screws and forgot.

~ or ~

There's something sensitive to puncture behind the surface of that lumber. It looks like a standard beam, but it's hard to say from my house.


Toilet Flange - Replace, Keep and Shim, or Something Else?

Morphed into an answer.
Patric : The bolt holes are 180 or directly across from each other you will notice the flange can be turned (at least when new) always use brass hardware.
steel will corrode and I have seen people break expensive toilets trying to get rusted bolts out. The light weight flange is strong enough to keep the pvc pipe in line with the toilet.
Old cast rings were thick and when replaced the new part goes inside the pipe and has some movement to align with the toilet (the style I use).
So as I have tried to convey,  The flange is to hold the pipe securely to the toilet thus preventing a leak. The wax seal, seals to the toilet primarily and a bit squishes out to the flange but enough to block sewer gas.  the flange Is for anchoring the seal not the seal itself. If exposed to urine water these cheap flanges would not last very long at all.
I have seen cases where a flange was two low because of tile added.
The old cast flange was still there but they used 2 wax rings to get it to seal and it worked for many years from what I could tell.
The avocado tile was a 70’s thing.
So I would not worry about a small dent just pre set the toilet and make sure the screw holes line up, squish the seal into the toilet but at the edges of the wax leave the center high, wipe the pipe and set the toilet snug the screws don’t over tighten or the toilet could crack and your done.


How do I stop a bed frame from squeaking?

I fixed my metal bedframe by putting leather patches between parts that are rubbing.
Wooden frame is a bit more tricky - not so easy to identify where the parts are rubbing, but this is the first initial step.
I'd say check all the joints and see if you can tighten the bolts or add glue to moving parts.

Basically, the noise comes from parts rubbing on each other. If you can eliminate rubbing, or put something between the rubbing parts - that would reduce the noise.


looking to use a motion detector to turn lights OFF

Quite often motion detectors have a No and an NC connection so turning lights off can be achieved.
But I would consider using a relay and use that to switch between the two types of lights. The supply can then be controlled by a separate switch.


Here is your solution/Ans already made up.  It is a Sharkbite tee with a valve cut off and a 1/4" fitting on the tee.

Link to item at Lowes:  Sharkbite Tee with 1/4" fitting and valve


Electrical Codes Pertaining to Electrical Near/Under Gas Cooktops

Nope.  You must be able to remove the cover of every box, without disassembling or modifying any part of the building.  Even a lift-out false back on a bookcase is dodgy.

Since this looks like surface mount, and it's on flexible cable or conduit... unscrew it, move it down a few inches, done.  Your jurisdiction will likely consider this movement a trivial repair that doesn't need a permit. They sure won't pass the work as it is.


Built wood vanity drawer deformed after painting!

This is a design problem

That appears to be 3 oak pieces joined to a crossways piece (does not actually matter much if it's plywood or solid in that orientation.)

It will be a humidity indicator. At present, the face has swelled and caused the present curve. When the face shrinks, it will go back to straight, if it dries & shinks more than it was when glued (or screwed), the curve will reverse.

It's how wood behaves in varying humidity. Furniture with solid wood components is either designed to let it move, or suffers the consequences. If the oak is mounted with screws, remove them, then slot holes so the wood can move without forcing a curve into the part they mount to. If it's glued, you either live with it or rebuild (or at least break the glue bond and join with slotted screw holes.)


Light junction box cover does not conceal the box opening

What you need is a ceiling medallion. That's a fancy name for "a circular thing you stick on the ceiling to look nice and cover a hole". A lot of them are designed to actually have a lamp hang from them, but there are some with a big hole in the middle which is exactly what you need here. There are simple ones:

and fancier ones:

Some are white or metallic and ready to use as-is. Some are designed to be painted. You can get them online but a local store where you can really see what they look like may be better.


Can I use the 6x6 beam in our crawlspace as a "running board" for electric cable?

You may secure wiring to framing in an exposed manner when it's not subject to damage. If this isn't a high-traffic location, it'll be just fine to do as you describe. Just do yourself and others the service of keeping it nice and neat. Plan ahead for parallel, flat rows of cable.


Do I need an egress bedroom window if I have a walk-out exterior door?

You need an egress window in any bedroom. The purpose is to provide an alternate point of exit from inside a bedroom in the event of an emergency. Having an exterior door located nearby but still outside of the bedroom will not qualify. If the bedroom doorway is blocked, the occupant still cannot exit the room.


Installing vertical EMT conduit crossing a horizontal eletrical run

If you use conduit hangers like these:

If will hold the conduit ⅜" away from the wall giving the  NM cable plenty of room behind it.

Good luck with your project!


What is the name hard plastic material that you find on bathroom cupboards?

Melamine is one of several options for what you may be referring to. You can get sheets of plywood or MDF with melamine pre-laminated to them.


Do I need return air ducting to a new upstairs furnace?

A Manual D load calculation will give you each room's airflow and return air path requirements. Those return air paths can be provided by dedicated return ducts, jump-ducts, or undercut doors. Undercut doors represent the least desirable approach because the amount of airflow that can pass under a door is about 50 CFM per inch, and a one inch undercut is pretty big but 50 CFM may not come close to the airflow going into the room. A one inch undercut also creates privacy concerns and may look just plain ugly.

By far the superior solution if you don't want to use dedicated return air ducting is to use jump ducts that allow air to pass through common walls and into the central hallway, and then you can have your simple central hallway return. The preferred approach is to do the ducts through the wall, not over the ceiling, which would put them in the unconditioned attic.

I am assuming you did a Manual J calculation to size the equipment correctly and determine whether or not a second furnace needed in the first place, right? And that you did the calculation with the assumption that all air sealing and insulation work were done first so when when you eventually do them later, this equipment won't be hugely oversized and create comfort problems, right? And that the results of this calculation convinced you that a second ducted furnace was actually required and cost-effective vs a single unit with zoning, a mini-ducted mini-split heat pump, or a series of ductless mini-split heat pumps? And that you were able to find a furnace with a small enough output that it won't short-cycle all season?

The reason why I ask is that if the answers to most or all these questions are all "No", then it's time to go back to the drawing board, because you could be setting yourself up for disappointment.


Hold several 2x4s together for tabletop?

Really the only reliable way to hold boards together to make a top is to use some type of perpendicular board to attach them to like in this traditional picnic table:

This type of top will normally have small gaps between the boards to make them appear more uniform.  A small gap ends up looking better than a very uneven butt joint, but that can depend on the exact boards you choose.

If you had some high quality lumber, you could square up the edges on a jointer and glue and biscuit the boards together, but rough 2x4s are not straight enough for that, and they are likely to shrink/expand/twist over the years which would crack that type of joint in the long run.


How do I fix stucco that is falling off of the walls?

This depends on how patient you are. My personal experience with plaster and stucco is that this is definitely one of those jobs best left to a professional: they'll cover in an hour what a beginner would take two days for.


New Generator Circuit - 10/3 UF-B to NM-B back to UF-B through attic

Option 1 looks good. For my understanding you still need to transition to a wet-rated wire going back out the wall in option 2, so you don't really "save" anything there. Since the conduit appears to be (at least partly) below 8 feet (thus "subject to damage"), you'll want schedule 80, (if PVC) so you'd want to go with 1-1/4" minimum.
You could also use 1 inch EMT, though you might appreciate having more space, in practice. It is generally "not fun" to get anything very close to the maximum fill through a conduit - but you've basically got straight sections to LBs, so it should not be that bad. Though you have drawn elbows (which should be sweeps if doing that, and sweeps don't go though walls nicely, which is why we normally use LBs or a "pulling elbow" for the most minimal accessible connector.)


Newly installed thermostatic mixer runs cold when shower head raised in height

The height of the cylinder is immaterial. Is the hot water from a loft tank or the mains pressure supply?
In most cases the hot and cold must be from the same supply or at the same pressure for a mixing valve to operate successfully. You can boost the hot with a pump or raise the height of the header tank, use a pressure reducing valve on the cold to reduce it to closer to the hot, or use a mixing valve which will tolerate differing supply pressures.


Does a new water tank need to be installed at the same height as an existing one for the floats to work properly?

With proper valve and control setup, you can set it at whatever height you like. Level control in each tank would be independent of the other tank.
There are multiple ways to do this. One would be to have the float switch on the 500 gallon tank, and a float valve (fed from the 500 gallon tank) on the 300 gallon tank, as well as a check valve on the output of the 300 gallon tank to the pressure pump before it joined the output of the 500 gallon tank to the pressure pump.
If it's just open pipes, sharing one float valve in one tank, you can't.
Of course, if the 500 gallon tank was larger diameter but the same height, that could work - you have not given specifics about those details.
If you want to elevate the 300 gallon tank, you'd move the pressure pump input to the bottom of the 500 gallon tank, so that water from the 300 would flow into the 500, with the tops of both tanks at the same level.


ok to put these two water heaters on a sub-panel?

Go ahead and put both loads on the same subpanel -- you don't need a relay for this, as the tankless heater isn't a continuous load (i.e. I can think of no situation where the domestic hot water should be running in a house for 3 hours straight!).

(The feeder calculations are as per 215.2(A)(1)(a) -- 125% of the 4500W storage heater is 5625W + the 5700W tankless heater yields 11325W, which is 47A@240VAC.)


Yes you can screed material over the middle.  I think that your question is the answer.  That's what I'd do.  Thin set will work, you could even do it at the same time as you are laying the tile.

Just a word of caution here, make sure you aren't using really smooth tiles that could become a hazard when they get wet since its outside.


Are there different thickness heads/nuts for hex bolts?

You probably don't want to do that anyway! Think carefully of what your request would mean.

A 3/8-16 thread means that the width of the bolt is essentially 3/8 inch, but what matters here is the 16. That tells us the thread pitch is 16 threads per inch. The nut being about 3/16 inches thick means that the bolt and the nut mate on three threads. A thinner nut would have less thread contact, so less strength.

If you really need a thinner nut, then it will be easiest to use a smaller diameter bolt. They have finer threads, so the nuts are also correspondingly thinner. Of course, I don't know why it is that you have chosen a 3/8-16 bolt. You may also choose a different thread pitch for your bolt. The 3/8-16 thread pitch is the standard (coarse) thread that you will find in nearly all home stores. However a more diligent search will find bolts and nuts with a 3/8-24 or even a 3/8-32 thread. They may have nuts in a different thickness.


How can I unclog a toilet that is clogged due to non-toilet paper?

If the soap doesn't work, I'd go with a drain zip before going to a snake.
There are a lot of brands, burt basically a drain zip is a three dollar, 2.5 foot (3/4 meter) long flat, bendy piece of plastic, with plastic barbs along the sides. It's great for getting hairballs out of the shower drain, and should bend its way quite nicely through the toilet to the point of your blockage. Most hardware stores (US) sell the things.


Can you use self-drilling anchors on old plaster ceiling?

This will most likely not work because you won't be able to get this to screw into the plaster. That stuff is HARD. I use masonry drill bits in my house, and they go dull after just a few holes drilled.
You will probably be OK using wall anchors as far as the anchor holding your light, but I would go with a different style instead, like the expanding plug, or toggle bolt type.


Ceiling fan works with rheostat switch but not with single pole

The MA-FQ4M dimmer doesn't dim its output directly -- it's designed to communicate over the powerline with a compatible canopy module instead, which is why it didn't dim your chandelier.  It shouldn't cause your fan to hum when used with the proper canopy module, though -- I'd suspect that your real problem is with the fan itself (perhaps the windings are slightly loose inside the fan motor or something like that).

As to why the fan didn't work with a single pole switch, I suspect it's because the canopy module wasn't seeing the right signals to turn the fan on.   Either that, or you simply goofed when you wired the switch.


How do I fix a chlorine feeder that's nearly impossible to open?

The O-ring for the cap on my Rainbow chlorinator didn't last more than a couple of years.  Perhaps you need a new one.  My O-ring actually swelled and got bigger.  I keep mine lubricated with silicone grease.


Accidental plumbing leak. How bad is this? What should I have my contractor do?

I'd give the contractor a chance to fix things. Your house isn't going to collapse into mold and mush over one event, but you do want to be sure that things are thoroughly dry and that there's no sagging of the drywall or severe warping of lumber.

I'd expect the contractor to have fans going in several places, especially in the ceiling joist cavities. I'd expect them to express real concern and a desire to rectify the situation.


Taking a long time for oil primer to dry

24 hours is normal

The problem is, people who have only painted with latex paint have funny expectations about drying.

Painting, and then sanding, in the same workday, is out of the question. 8 hours of dry isn't going to cut it for any alkyd, if the next step is to sand or switch from prime to topcoat.

If it's taking more than 8 hours to get tack-free, or if it's taking longer than 24 hours to be sandable, you may be dealing with adverse conditions such as low temperature or poor air circulation.  You need to change the air periodically because it will saturate with the paint solvents, and that slows drying. (just like high humidity slows drying of water).  If your conditions are good, the next step is to talk to your paint supplier, because some paints are extra slow - they may have quick-dry additives available, to bring them into a "24 hours to sand" expectation.

By the way, "curing" is a red herring. For 1-part paints, curing takes months or even  years.  If it won't sand, it's not even dry.

Use primer for priming

In my experience, alkyd primers dry much faster than alkyd topcoats, which is why I'm surprised you're having a problem with primer. If you're actually painting a topcoat, and relying on some advertising claim that the paint is its own primer, yeah, that's a lie. That's always a lie. You'll never see a pro painter doing that.

At the risk of stating the obvious, read the instructions

I think that's actually a law: it can do environmental damage, so you must use the product consistent with its instructions or labeling. A careful read of the paint-can fine print is essential, and if the fine print says "See instruction booklet" (as my 2-part paints do, as there isn't enough room on the label for critical warnings and also instructions), then you need to do that.  Not reading the instructions is the surest way to have mis-set expectations and a failed application.

Also note that it is likely the instructions will call out certain "re-coat windows" which you have to hit. This is because of the (superior) nature of alkyd paints.   You generally have two recoat windows: between X and Y hours (when the paint is dry enough to be stable yet soft enough to chemically bond to the next coat); and beyond Z hours (when chemically bonding is no longer possible, but the paint is nice and hard so it can be scuff-sanded so the next coat can mechanically bond).  Adverse conditions can warp those numbers; conditions for slow drying extend them, etc.

Chemical bonding has superior performance to mechanical bonding. If you've ever seen paint layers separate, that is someone relying on a mechanical bond and failing to do proper surface prep by scuff-sanding and cleaning.


Loud water sounds when tub faucet is turned on

The noise may be caused by harmonic vibrations. Try adjusting the flow by opening the tap less, the downside is that it will take longer for the tub to fill.

Other options tend to be more invasive, like opening up the walls and/or ceiling and strapping the supply piping tightly.

You could try a new tub spout, one which delivers more or less water per time unit, or has different flow characteristics.


Why are there nails only half way in, in my garage?

People were using them to secure things or hang things on.  They serve no purpose.  I would just pull them out since hammering them in probably will not be that easy.  You might want to get a small board to press against so you do no damage drywall.
Also FYI I do not think the drywall that is currently on there is going to take pain - even primer - that well.


Does my sandbox need a bottom if it will be over clay soil?

I made a sandbox a couple of decades ago for kids. It had a plywood bottom and was built with legs that held it up about seven inches off the ground. The bottom had drainage holes to let water out. The plywood lasted for a long time. How long? Hard to say I sold the thing in a garage sale after 10 years when the kids grew out of sand boxes.

BTW - I had a lid over the top made out of two pieces of plywood that were hinged together. The lid kept out cats and most of the rain. If the sand got too wet just opened it to the sun and worked the sand around with a small garden rake over the course of a day or so.


Removing IKEA "Vikarn" shower-curtain rod

The cap is very similar to a most any plastic lidded container with a tiny lip clicking over another tiny lip. UnhandledExcepSean would be correct that a little pry with a thin stiff device should pop them apart.

Sometimes in just 1 spot is all that's needed and other times you'll need 2 devices and walk the prying halfway around before they pop free. It just depends on precision and quality control differences between the caps, if any.


What could cause an old electric oven to run hot even when adjusted to the lowest setting?

You could try to replace the thermostat if you can find a suitable replacement.  But there may be a very low-tech solution.   If the oven temp is consistently 100 higher across the entire range of the oven knob, you can either repaint the knob to shift all the numbers over or you can paint an indicator arrow on the oven surface next to the knob but shifted over.  So, for example, you can set the knob to 250 then paint an indicator next to the knob at 350.  The drawback to this is that someone who is unfamiliar with your oven may be confused and could leave the oven on when they think they are turning it off.  To solve that problem, paint a separate set of indicators on both the knob and the oven surface to positively indicate when the ofen is off.


How should I restore this painted sandstone bay window?

I'm getting something similar done. Either get a stone mason out to do the job or to give you a quote/some advice. Like you said not a good idea to use cement as it will trap damp and degrade the stone quicker. Use a diamond grinder to get the sandstone smooth and fill in any cracks with lime mortar. Then only use limewash or a good quality mineral paint to finish so it allows the stone to breathe.


Adding second ground rod. Is this an acceptable way of bonding?

NEC requires the bonding electrodes be connected via an approved method if joined together outside an approved assembly like the main disconnects bonding lugs.  In other words, you might have done it correctly assuming the main disconnect is actually in doors and not outdoors, and it had a free lug opened. If there were not any free lugs available then it would need to be secured via an approved method.

Adding two new ground rods ( 6 ft a part is Code ) would be ideal and leave the old one buried and unused.  Though as mentioned by Ecnerwal it would not hurt anything to leave it connected.  I say disconnect it as the next home owner will just be confused.

Edit

Additional info has came to my attention in that your drawing shows a box below the meter.  This is typical of a main disconnect.  Just to be clear, the panel inside would not be considered the main disconnect if there was already one outside.  If this is the case then connecting the grounding electrode would only be acceptable at the main disconnect and not the panel inside.

Also, Code only requires one 8 ft ground rod if the minumin 25 ohms is met.  It is easier to drive two ( Code says 6 ft a part ) and not bother testing if the 25 ohms is reached.


It sounds like the water controll solenoid has something stuck in it allowing the water to flow. These solenoids are normally closed and require power to open. It is possible a small piece of pipe scale is holding the valve open. It is also possible that there is a failed component on the controll board but that is doubtful because it is running with the switch in the off position. With the unit unplugged and the water turned off dissembling the valve and cleaning it may clear up the problem but a new solenoid valve may be required.


Why do some spaces in my electrical panel not provide any power?

You should verify the voltage across the mains this sounds like a bad leg. every other breaker on each side is fed from 1 leg so it could look to be random. Example breaker 1, 5 & 9 all being fed from L1 then 2, 6 & 10 on the other side being fed from L1. It may look random at first but a bad leg is more probable than anything else based on your question.


How can I remove my bathroom extractor fan's cover?

Just pull it outward about 1" (2-3cm). There will likely be a long V-spring on each of two opposing sides that you'll need to disengage from some slots, often by squeezing the legs together.


Correct placement for 1,200 lb pizza oven on wooden box I built

It will be fine in terms of the weight... the 4x4s in the center will easily handle the load.  I'm a bit concerned about the OSB though.  Personally if it isn't too late I'd really suggest 3/4" CDX plywood.  But if it's too late don't lose sleep over it, just a long shot.


How can I convert a 240V dryer outlet to two branch circuits?

Yes, it is legit to have a “shared neutral” circuit, to be more specific, a “multiwire branch circuit” or MWBC. The Code forces you to engage in certain best practices, because even if you get it perfect, it's very easy for the next guy to inadvertently create a hazard.

First, 2011 code absolutely requires a 20A ganged breaker (or approved handle ties).  Aside from the reason you recognize, it also assures you are on opposite poles of the 240v, which avoids overloading the neutral.

All neutrals on an MWBC must be “pigtailed” - google it, i.e. you are not allowed to daisychain through outlets by using the extra 2 terminals.  (Well, OK, you can daisychain the “hot”.)  This is to prevent “lost neutral” damage downstream if an outlet is removed or has a problem.

Exception: Your GFCI outlet.  By nature, they require a dedicated separate neutral to any downstream outlets, so naturally you must daisychain both hot and neutral for those.  To make that clear, mark that neutral in a distinctive way so the next guy doesn't grab it thinking it's the MWBC neutral.

To answer your followup, opposite poles matter.  While your homerun is 40A rated to the old plug, you certainly are extending the MWBC beyond it, and using 20A wire (e.g. 12 gauge) to do so.  In the future, others will add to that MWBC. What happens when the next homeowner runs the other "hot" out to the workbench? Due to time/billing/skill limitations the "next guy" can't reverse engineer the full scope of every circuit they touch - they must be able to assume it's correct with no hidden gotchas, which is a big part of why there's a code.  That is especially important with MWBCs because they are so touchy.

If the restrictions or safety margin of MWBCs bother you, slap a sub-panel at the site of the old plug, and run simple circuits off it.


I voted to close this since it's really a construction question and belongs in the DIY site, but the best way to do this is going to be shimming up one side and running the board through a planer.
Basically you'll draw your angle on the endgrain, get a piece of MDF wider and longer than your work piece, then use framing shims to get your line parallel to the sheet of MDF.  Tack/screw the shims in place and then tack stops on all the sides of the board to keep it from moving on the MDF.  Make sure none of your brad nails/screws will contact the planer blades (or poke through the MDF to hit the planer bed).  Then run it through till you hit your line.


Miswired 3-Way Dimmer - Contractor used 14/2 in Traveler. How bad is it?

Did they extend the wires in the walls?

So they moved the switch to a new point that's farther away.  The first question is whether these incompetents just spliced an extension on the wires in the walls, thus burying a splice in the walls.  Buried splices are dangerous and illegal even if a competent electricians did one, which these guys sure aren't.

So a buried splice is a complete deal-killer that will require the entire cable run be permanently decommissioned.

To figure out what they did, do a very careful forensic inspection of the cable coming out of the new box.  Compare this to the cable coming out of the other box.  (mind you, there will be more than one cable in that box).   If it's the same cable, then clearly, they would have done the same thing - wrapping the other ground wire with tape and misused it as a hot, etc.

If you are sure it's the same cable, then you can continue it in service.  Otherwise It cannot be used at all; what follows in the quotebox is the end of this answer for you; your only recourse is to replace the cable.

  You must decommission the cable altogether.  You cannot use it.  You'll need to fit a smart-switch at the former multi-cable location, and a battery powered remote at the other location.  The smart switch and remote must be designed to work with each other.

Smart switch, if there are 3+ cables in the other box

Again, don't even consider this option unless you are sure there is not a splice buried in the wall.

The location you're worried about is a "spur" or "switch loop".  I notice the gadget already there is some sort of "smart switch.  Most likely the "smarter" switch will need to be at the other location from here on out.

The other location will have access to supply power+neutral and onward switched hot to the light.  The smart switch there will do all the hard work of switching the light.  It will then be controlled by your phone, or by the remote switch we'll install at the loop location.

The black and white wires in our bung cable must be re-tasked to be always-hot and neutral.  Ground will be back to ground.   So this cable will do nothing but provide always-present power to a remote smart switch, which will communicate via wireless or powerline signaling to the main smart switch.

If you have something very clever in the remote location like a dimmer or motion sensor, you'll have a product search on your hands, because you'll need to find a particular smart switch line that is compatible with that wiring and allows that functionality at the remote.

If there are only 2 cables in the other box

That's a real problem.  It means this entire 3-way complex itself is a switch loop.

Now if it's a modern post-2011 switch loop, it'll have 3 wires coming down from the lamp, and that will let you implement the same as the "3+ cables" case above.   So go up there.

Otherwise you will have a tougher hunt for suitable products.  Both cables will need to be converted to black+white = always-hot+neutral, and both switch locations will need to be smart-switch "remotes".  Where's the smart-switch master, then?  That'll have to be a special module sitting up in the lamp.    Which will require careful product selection.

With any such product hunt, avoid mail order.  Especially avoid Amazon "Sold by XXX and Fulfilled by Amazon" - that is a superhighway of unsafe foreign junk, because it bypasses the safeguards that assure only UL-listed products are found in retail shops.  (ETL is an acceptable substitute for UL, however CE aka "Chinese Export" is not.  The "Chinese Export" mark was cleverly chosen to be identical to a European mark, which itself means "the manufacturer self-certifies this as safe").


How can I diagnose the cause of my washing machine shocking me?

Putting  my proximity voltage detector within 40cm of the unit resulted in it  beeping (it usually needs to be within 1cm to detect anything.)

This usually means hot/neutral is reversed. There might be nothing wrong with the washer. Call an electrician first. And ground that outlet! Your machine's electronics will thank you.

(FWIW I use a non-contact voltage detector daily for diagnosing home appliances.)