Converting switched receptacle to overhead light

raise BoxOverflowError()

The installer who put that switch and light in wasn't paying enough attention to box fill, as the 2" deep single gang boxes in there aren't big enough to hold 5 wires + ground + the double share of a yoke, never mind a new cable!

So, you'll need to add extensions to both boxes.  A Raco 665 or equivalent will provide ample volume for both boxes (it will stick out an inch and a half from the wall though).  Once you have the fill problem solved, then you can move on to running a new 14/2 cable to either box from the new light fixture's location.  Once the cable is in place and pulled into the box, you can then follow the instructions below.

If you pulled the cable to the switch box, connect the white wire from the new cable to the existing white wires and the black wire from the new cable to screw that's now occupied by the red wire.  You can then disconnect the existing black wires from the screw, nut them together with a pigtail and the existing red wire, and hook the pigtail's other end to the other screw on the switch.  Finish by connecting the new ground in with the rest of the bare grounds and buttoning it all up.

On the other hand, if you pulled the cable to the receptacle box, connect the white wire from the new cable to the existing white wires, the black wire from the new cable to the existing red wire after it's removed from the existing receptacle, and replace the receptacle with a new one that hasn't had its tabs broken off (brass to black, silver to white, green to ground).  Finish by connecting the new ground in with the rest of the bare grounds and buttoning it all up.


How to fix a pedal bin into a kitchen cupboard as a swing-out bin?

Okay, bear with me here. This may look a bit daunting but as far as the construction goes it's all pretty basic. The precise measurements and movements of things are another story. The depth of the cabinet relative to the width of the can will be important because there must be enough throw between open and closed to make it all work. And the distance the arm can descend has to be long enough to open the lid satisfactorily. The weight of the arm has to be heavy enough in the open position to counter act the mechanism of the can but not be so heavy that it snaps it to and fro harshly. And all this is assuming you have a can that's built like this one and the cabinet it goes in is adequately sized to accommodate all of the parts required to pull this off.

If you have a different kind of can I think the basic concept can be adapted to work for most types. I chose this one because it's actually the trickiest to actuate. If you can't shoe horn a carriage into the existing cabinet around the trash can...this idea might be dead in the water. The depth in particular is critical as it must be great enough to accept the can plus the length of travel the lid requires.

First construct a carriage for your can that rides in and out on some 100lb, full extension, side mount drawer slides like these.
Remove the hinges from your the door of your cabinet and attach it to the front of the carriage so it comes straight out and back instead of swinging aside.

Next attach a bushing and keeper to the cabinet wall. A piece of 1 1/2 pvc would make a good bushing. (seen in blue) Make sure there's enough space between the bushing and the keeper block to allow the arm to pivot.

Now attach a strap of ballistic fabric (cut up an old ratchet strap maybe) to the lid of your can with a rare earth magnet or some other removable means so you can get the can out easily for cleaning. Run the strap to a counter weighted arm. You might have to experiment with the weight so you'll want to be able to add and subtract mass. Lead weights like these would be great.

Attach the arm to the back of the carriage with some sort of articulated knuckle (two eyelets hooked together would work).
If all goes well, when you pull the door/carriage out the weight of the arm will pull down on the strap, opening the lid. As you close it, the arm will be pulled back in and the lid will close itself as its designed to do.

This all may take a bit of trial and error but I believe it's doable for minimal cost out of materials that could be bought at any hardware store and it requires no special tools. If you do get it all to work please post a follow up, I'd love to see pictures of it in action! Cheers.


You should be getting 24-volts +- back from the thermostat to the furnace on the white wire.  If you are not getting this, the thermostat in not really calling for heat. Jumper from the red wire on your furnace to the white wire at the furnace.  the furnace should start.  This is fairly technical stuff. You may want to consult a pro.


What are some cost-effective tips for reducing external sound from entering a room?

Step 1: Prevent air transmission between the rooms. Sweeps for the door or a heavier door; look at the heating registers and windows; things like that. You're saying the sound is muffled, which implies the high frequencies aren't making it in, so I don't think this is the major problem.

Step 2: Damp the transmitted vibration. Put big heavy bookcases on the wall between the two rooms (which side doesn't matter so much). Blow heavy insulation into the wall between. Hang a heavy quilt on the wall.

Step 3: Break up the sound in the source room. Use natural diffusers (heavy sofas with heavy foam pillows work great, or the aforementioned bookcase with loads of stuff on it), or buy foam diffusers to stick in the corners/edges of the room.

Step 4: Give up and wear sound-cancellation headphones...or install a white-noise generator in your office (either a fan-type one, or a water feature if you like more 'natural' sounds).

See also How Do You Reduce Floor Sound Transmission for more details.


What it looks like is that you have a Ceramic Floor.

You need to use two flanges - the reason for this setup is that the pipe flange does not sit high enough for the toilet to properly seat against - the tile height is a problem its a bit too high. So the common procedure is to install a spacer or extender flange. Typically you will have a Caulking to Form a Gasket between the two lower flanges. Clink my link below to get the details.

Here is the options and a more detailed layout of what and why and how to resolve the issue.

How to remove a metal flange toilet gasket and replace it - some ideas for repair are included.


Replace light switch with z wave smart switch

The new smart switch requires a neutral so unless you have a couple white wires wire-nutted together in the box with the switch, you're out of luck using that switch. You'll need to get a switch that doesn't require a neutral.
If you have only two true black wires in the switch box, chances are you have conduit and you could pull some THHN from the ceiling to the switch and bring in a neutral but we'd need more pictures to verify that.


how to wire outlet in the box that lacks neutral?

No, you cannot legally install an outlet without a neutral. Using the ground wire in its place is illegal and potentially dangerous. Moreover, the neutral wire must be in the same bundle as the hot wire to avoid eddy currents that could cause heating.

If the hot is in a conduit, you can simply pull a new wire. If it’s using NMB (Romex), probably -2 from the fixture, you’ll need to replace it with -3.


How can I add a 50AMP breaker for a NEMA 14-50 outlet to my panel?

The good news: you only have a few things to clean up in your panels
The good news in your situation is that your "alien breaker" problem is less severe than it appears at first glance; while your panels are Arrow-Hart (Murray), they are cross-labeled to accept Bryant (now Eaton) BR, Westinghouse (now Eaton) (H)QP, and ITE EQ-P (apparently now Siemens QP), in addition to being able to use UL classified Eaton CL breakers and their native Murray (now Siemens, but recently discontinued) MP breakers.  This means that we don't have to go on a wholesale breaker-swap rampage, but only have to fix a few troublespots.  In particular, since you have 4AWG copper going to the barn, we can change the barn subpanel breaker out for up to a 70A breaker, conservatively assuming that the wire is 60°C rated.  In other words, you can use a BR270, Eaton HQP2070, or possibly a Siemens Q270 here (the labeling issue is a bit weirder in this case since there appears to have been a designation change as the ITE breaker product line changed hands) if you can't find or don't want to search for a NOS Murray MP270 to go there, as Siemens discontinued the Murray product line over the course of the last couple of years.
Moving on to the micro-panel in the barn, we can start by removing the THQL1130 as it's no longer needed.  From here, your options depend on if the barn has a shutoff nor not; if there's a shutoff switch at the barn that cuts off all power to the barn, you can simply whack in a THQL2150 for the car charger and a TFH filler plate in the top right to plug the open hole.
If the barn does not have its own shutoff, though, then things get more complicated as you'll need to add such.  In that case, the filler plate in the top left comes out and both of the outer top slots are filled with THQP150 breakers, connected by a THT2 handle tie, to provide power to the car charger as it's a 240V only load and does not need common trip as a result, just common disconnecting.  From there, you'll want to add a THQL21100 (the precise rating isn't critical as long as it's greater than or equal to 70A as it's merely being used as a shutoff switch here) in the bottom spaces with a THQLRK retainer kit holding it down, then move the feeder wires from the main lugs to the THQL21100 to allow it to serve as a main shutoff for the barn power.  You should also make sure the bonding and grounding is correct here in this case; neither the welder nor the car charger need a neutral, so a 3-wire feeder with a single bonded bar in the barn subpanel can work, but you'll want to make sure you have a solid grounding electrode system at the barn all the same to keep stray natural electricity from making a mess there, at least.
Once that's done, we can move onto the rest of the situation.  The possibly-THQL? breaker feeding AC#1 should go and be replaced with a proper breaker for the panel, and the double-stuff breaker labeled "Garage Plugs", while likely of a suitable type (Siemens QP/QT), looks to be overbreakered for the circuit unless it's feeding big, chunky 30A receptacles (NEMA 5-30 exists, and is dryer-receptacle sized) on 10AWG wire, of course.  Finally, we move onto the pool panel, where that Homeline HOM230 sticks out like a sore thumb in a BR panel, and needs to be replaced with a BR230.
Of course, if you want to upgrade either or both of the micro-panel subpanels to larger units, that is a fair prerogative; unless there's a safety-switch somewhere for the main cutoff for the barn, you'll want to use a 100A or 125A, main breaker, 24-space or 30-space panel in an outdoor-rated/weatherproof (NEMA 3R) enclosure there.  The pool panel looks to be at the same structure as the main panels, so the need for a main shutoff isn't an issue, and it can be upgraded to a 125A, 24- or 30-space, main lug panel in an indoor (NEMA 1) cabinet as a result.


can 3 2x6 x8' wooden board support a 900lb load?

Yes, assuming they're small-knot boards in good condition. In fact, one would probably hold, but wouldn't be what I'd call safe.

Be sure to securely fasten the boards together using plenty of nails, screws, or some other mechanism to prevent twisting and other movement.


New floorboards upstairs now sounding drum-like when I walk on it. How do I add sound proofing after gluing the panels in?

What is the spacing of the joists? Whatever it is the "best" way is to reduce that spacing perhaps by adding intermediate joists.
The drummimg is due to the frequency or vibration produced by the joist/board combination. One way to stop this is to put an isolation band between the joist and board when fitting. This allows the boards to expand/contract as they change with temperature without loading the joists. As you have screwed and glued them together you may end up with problems.
If you completely fill the void with an insulation which is in contact with the underside of the floor then this might help reduce the noise produced. I am not sure if spraying foam will be effective unless you get good coverage and volume fill.


Replacing receptacle with GFCI outlet which will be tapped for outdoor pole lantern

Ok first we gotta fix that box.  It has a missing knockout and does not have enough space.  Fortunately you're in an unfinished part of the home so there's no drywall mudding to do.

Get

a nice, large 4" square steel box.  It has a ground screw hole pre-tapped 10-32.  Try to get one with a little bump for the ground screw so it won't be drilling into the wood.
a lid for a steel box intended for one GFCI (meaning it has the rectangular Decora style opening).
A #10-32 ground screw with or without pigtail.
a foot of Romex of approprite size for pigtails (#12 if 20A breaker, otherwise #12 or #14)
some wire nuts, always good to have.

Tear the old wires off the old box (it really won't matter) and pry the old box off the wall.  On the new box, fit the ground screw in the hole tapped 10-32.   This is mainly so when you're attaching it, you don't accidentally put a nail/screw in the ground hole.

I strongly recommend screws. Mount the new box.  Now the ground screw must be able to bottom out, so do what you have to so it can.  Put a ground pigtail on that ground screw.  That is the key to the grounding system, you will not use the ground screw on the GFCI (so one less wire to wrangle, yay!)

Now knock out three of the knockouts on your 4" box for your existing two and one new cable.  Use proper cable clamps like those on your old box.  I would recommend doing one cable at a time.

On the GFCI/receptacle, leave the tape on the LOAD terminals.

Since you do not know which of your existing cables is supply, guess... and connect its hot and neutral to the LINE inputs of the GFCI/receptacle.  Cap/wrap/position the other wires safely.  Power up and see if the GFCI works.  If not, try the other cable.  So you have found supply.  Leave it attached.

Now, fit your other cables into the box. Wire-nut all grounds together and push them into the back of the box, remember there is not a ground wire on the GFCI/receptacle.

Take the "know what you're doing" sticker off the LOAD terminals.  Now there's only one hot screw (brass) and one neutral screw (silver) on the LOAD side, but you need to attach 2 wires to it.  You can't stack wires, so you use a pigtail.  That is an additional piece of wire you get from shucking the jacket off Romex, 6" should suffice.  For each black and white, attach it to the appropriate LOAD terminal.  Now you have 3 black wires, the old load, the new load, and the pigtail.  Join them with a wire nut.   Ditto white.

Or if you're not ready to light up the outside run, just leave it out (still wire-nut the pigtail to the old load wire) and add the new wire later.  Protect the loose wires so they don't short against something, e.g. put a wire nut on the end and tape it down so it stays put (they like to come off single wires).

Button it all up: fit the receptacle to the lid, then the lid to the box.
Give it a test.

The receptacle  gets its ground through surface contact yoke-lid and lid-box, then to the ground screw.  External GFCI testers rely on ground as a fault path, so if you haven't buttoned it up and the tester hasn't worked, that is why.

A pigtail looks like this

 source

Wait, why did they pigtail that, when they had enough screw terminals?  Perhaps the location was awkward and they didn't want to be up there, back bent over, fitting 4 screws.  So they fit the pigtails on the bench, in comfort, and crawled in there, 2 wirenuts, done!  I do that all the time.  Nothing wrong with using pigtails when you don't have to.


Side sprayers or vegetable sprayers are a known weak point of most faucet designs.  The valve is not meant for long-term pressure and are not designed for that task.

The diverter valve does play a role, but it's not to cut off water flow from the sprayer.  The diverter's job is to cut off water from the main faucet and divert it to the sprayer when the pressure on the spray side drops (when you pull the trigger).

Normally, most of the water pressure is going out the faucet and the sprayer only has to stop a small fraction of the pressure.  When a dishwasher is hooked up to the end of the faucet and the water flow is stopped,  the sprayer then has to deal with the full pressure of your water system.

To remove the side spray, you will need a threaded cap to cover the connection on the faucet where the spray hose connects.  You can remove the sprayer and take it to the store to ensure you get the right size.  This should be reversible, so if the dishwasher is no longer used the sprayer can be reattached.


In a crawl space how do i secure electric cables?

Current Code has a certain rule for running non metallic and simlar cables in craw spaces.

334.15(C) 2017 NEC Cables not smaller than #6/2 or #8/3 can be directly stabled to the lower edges. Smaller cables can be run through bored holes or running boards.

The running board solution is usually the easiest. The running board should be at least the height of the cable.


I suspect the water level is set too high, so it's not emptying fully. I'd try adjusting the fluidmaster fill valve (the black thing on the left)

Here is a link to a troubleshooting guide for that toilet, check the poor or sluggish flush sections.

http://www.watermatrix.com/proficiency/pdf/resources/Proficiency-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf

Those fluidmaster fill valves are cheap and it may have been replaced once already and not been adjusted the same as the original.

It may also have been that the toilet sat unused for a while allowing the algae to grow and just killing it off once by scrubbing the toilet clean will prevent it from growing back with normal toilet usage.

Using bleach and tablets in the tank is generally not a great idea because the chlorine breaks down the pvc used in the plastic parts. I know the fluidmaster parts always have a warning against it and the guide for your toilet also mentions not to use them.


Pool pump wiring - 115v motor okay with L5-20 125V 20A Receptacle?

1) American house-current power is commonly described as anything from 110VAC to 120VAC.(Similarly, the higher voltage obtained by using both phases is called everything from 220VAC to 240VAC.) I believe this is mostly a historical artifact, and appliances labelled for anything in the respective range should work with any voltage within that range.

2) Fittings are overdesigned slightly for safety. So a receptacle intended for use with American house-current power will typically be rated for 125VAC. That doesn't mean it necessarily supplies 125VAC, only that it's tested and promised to be safe up to that (higher-than-needed) voltage.


Will roof work done by unlicensed volunteers pass code?

You are going to have to call your local city hall.  They will tell you if you need to pull permits and what checks there are.

As for "roofing" - there is no roofing certification so in theory anyone can put a roof up.  The church's insurance might not like this but if the city signs off on it or doesn't care than put up the roof.

I would highly suggest that you get a local roofing company and let them know of your situation.  Most would be willing to take on a smaller profit for having a foreman out to a site with many volunteers.

I am not sure what the height and slope of the church is though.  With a steep peak this might not be doable.  Just a lot of variables here.  And you don't want someone getting hurt and there being no church left.


How do I properly wire a 5-wire thermostat? What is this ambiguous '4' label?

I found the manual for the old thermostat on the web.

Turns out '4' is an alternative label for Rh on some old models.

I guess I needed that.


A quick search using The Google with the terms "FCL-30EX circline bulb led replacement" results in many links, although The Google prefers to search without the hyphen, "FCL30EX circline bulb led replacement." Additional research shows the CFL tube you reference is a nine inch diameter unit. Many LED replacements for this tube are plug-in without complications. Keep in mind that rating a CFL bulb for 30W is not the equivalent of an incandescent bulb at 30W. This would indicate that your desired 100W equivalent, if available would be blindingly bright.

A representative sample from amazon.com is listed at 30W, 1700 lumens:
CFL Replacement LED circline bulb although the comments indicate that it may be necessary to remove the ballast.

Use your favorite search engine with the previously noted terms for more options.


Help me identify my halogen recessed lighting

The TM301 is just an outer casing.  Inside the ceiling is the actual bulb holder assembly.  Acccording to the manufacturer's site, the TM301 is compatible with bulb holders for GU10 halogen bulbs and MR16 LED bulbs.  Both of these types have 2 prongs at their bases and are twist mounts.  You should be able to twist them out.


How do I stop my island from sliding across the floor?

There are a few options...  You can remove the non-marring plastic feet provided by Ikea, and replace them with some rubber nail or screw on feet, or you can get rubber "caster cups" that the existing feet can set on.  Rubber will provide protection between the floor and the table, but will stop if from sliding.

You should be able to find both and any home improvement store.

Screw on rubber feet (found on Amazon):

Rubber caster cups (image from lowes.com)


Installing pipe pullup bar between beams

Much better to go with screws for several reasons, especially that they can be adjusted tight and will stay there, while nails will only set until the head hits the surface of the metal flange and also they have low withdrawal strength. Yes, most of your force is shear but because there is not much preventing the nails from pulling out, over time the nails will tend to loosen.

I suggest using a structural lag screw with around 2" of embed into the wood after accounting for the thickness of the flange. I suggest Simpson SDS x 2-1/2". A good quality #8 or #10 screw would work too. I strongly suggest not using cheap or low strength screws such as those used for dry wall.


What is the meaning of the term "trade size"

It simply means what the item is referred to in size, .vs. what any actual dimension may be. "Nominal" size means the same thing.

So, 1/2" EMT (for example) is 0.706" on the outside and 0.622" on the inside, and 0.500" nowhere.


That styrofoam insulation will work, but it is not cheap per R-value (however it gives you a great R-value per inch).  Insulating an attic usually means you have a lot of room for insulation and you will need high R-value so that is why the cheaper options are more popular (blown cellulose or blown fiberglass).

Said another way, if you have a couple of feet of space in your attic, you can just fill that all up with loose insulation and get R-45 (or whatever you need).  But if you have a smaller space, say it is a finished room and the only space for insulation is between the 2x6 or 2x8s ceiling joists you may want to pay extra to get a higher R-value in that limited space.


Can I install a ridge vent on simple truss shed roof (no ridge beam)?

Your plan to cut back the roof sheathing back 1" on either side of the ridge is the way it is done whether the roof is truss or conventional, framed with a ridge pole.
I have seen formed aluminum ridge caps used over this cutout or the fiber mat that allows the regular shingles used for the caps to cover over the matting. The angle of the roof will accommodate either.
When you cut back the sheathing, it really wont be sharp anymore, there will be 3 peaks, 2 of the plywood, 1 of the framing. The only sharp part will be at the ends, if you choose to leave 1' of the sheathing intact for weather proofing at the ends.


Dining room light comes on when using an outlet

I would alter your thinking.  The light switch and the socket are not "just fine."

Odds are your switch or your socket (or both) somehow have the ground / return wires incorrectly wired.  So either the switch routes the return into the ground when closed or worse.  The plug is likely on the same circuit and completing the circuit for the switch due to the miswiring.  This could be done a number of ways, some which involve the misconnected ground feeding electricity into the plugged in device, returning through the return (or some other odd but similar arrangement).

I'd have an electrician go over the switch, the light, and the socket.  If any of these items were rewired, odds are there was an undetected issue, as they didn't plug something into the socket and test the light in conjunction (and the device seemed to work).


Identifying manufacturer (brand) of toilet from a photograph

I understand the reasoning behind your question but you should never "browse" for parts without first laying eyes on the parts you need, unless you like bringing/sending them back. There are numerous manufacturers with models that look just like this. Even if your wild guess is correct, manufacturers use different internals for the same tank and bowl depending on model. They also change internals year to year but continue to use the same tanks and bowls.

Wait until you return and you will find manufacturer and model information stamped into the back of the tank. More importantly you will be able to see the parts you need.


Paint liquifying around cooker: solution?

My bet is you used a water-based latex and the wallpaper has some oil in it (being over the stove there's a good chance it absorbed oil over the years). What's happening is the heat and humidity are driving the water back into the paint, and the oil in the wallpaper is interfering with the adhesion.

Two things I would do.

Get an oil based primer (like original Kilz). It should help the adhesion of the paint to the wallpaper. Oil based should adhere, regardless of what's in the wallpaper
Put a semi-gloss enamel over it (can be water based latex). The "gloss" part of the paint will better resist the water getting into it


Can I accelerate caulk drying by using a fan or heater on it?

The tube of caulk should include drying and curing times.  It will vary based on the product so you definitely want to go by the manufacturer's recommendation and not some general guideline on the web somewhere.

You are not the only person who does not want to have to wait a day or two before using their sink and bathtub and the caulk manufacturers know this. It should be easy to find caulks that dry much faster than this.  Bathroom caulks are frequently advertising their "shower ready" time which is how long before it can get wet.  It may take a day or two to fully cure but many caulks will be able to get wet after a few hours.

Like many "fast drying" products the downside is that you have less time to work with the product before it starts setting up.  The last time I caulked my bathtub I used a very fast drying product that claimed it was "shower ready in 1 hour".  I am not a perfect caulker so I kept adding more and smoothing it out; unfortunately it started "clumping up" after maybe 20 minutes so I ended up with lumps.  If I had used a product that took longer to dry I would have had more time to smooth it without it starting to dry and get a skin over the top.


How can I combine constant and switched power circuits to power a security light

You might be able to accomplish this by replacing the existing front light switch with a three way (SPDT) switch and running a new 3-wire plus ground cable from that switch to the back lights.

It's basically a three way switch with a two way switch in series on one leg, where the motion detector is the two way switch.

This would only work if the motion detector in the back is OK with this type of connection.  You'd have to consult with the manufacturer of the motion detector about that.  It's never come up for me so I have no idea if that runs afoul of the listing of those devices.

At the back light, splice the black on the light, the red from the new cable, and the red from the motion detector.  Splice the black from the new cable to the black from the motion detector.  Splice all three whites.  Ground wires as usual.

In the switch box, connect the black going to the front lights and the red from the new cable to the "up" position traveler terminal on the SPDT switch with a red pigtail.  Connect the "down" position traveler terminal on the SPDT switch to the black wire from the new cable.  Connect the common terminal on the SPDT switch to the black wire feeding the switch box.  Splice all three whites.  Ground wires as usual.

When the three way switch is on, there will be 120V on the motion detector's red wire and 0V on the black.  That is not how it is usually wired, and may not be OK for the device, that's why I mention checking with the manufacturer above.

EDIT:

I gave this some more thought because I think it's an interesting problem / exercise.  I thought of another alternative that may or may not be worth the trouble.

If you can't find a motion detector that's manufacturer approved / listed for parallel wiring, you could sidestep that by using a DPDT switch rather than a SPDT switch.  The second pole would be to disconnect the motion detector from the light and the parallel power when the front lights are turned on.  You'd have to run an additional 14/2 or 12/2 from the front switch to the light.  You probably see where I'm going with this but I'd have to make a sketch to explain it any better.

That may be more trouble that you'd want to bother with.  Complicated is never good.  You may have to install a bigger switch box up front and / or a bigger box / second box in the back.


Interlock and backfeed setup with NEMA L6-20

Running the house off the L6-20 receptacle (without the neutral) would be almost sure to start wrecking things on your 120V circuits in short order, blowing light bulbs, refrigerator, etc.  And at the worst possible time, during some emergency.

Since there are 120V receps you know there's a 120V tap in there that can be used to supply line-to-neutral loads.  However there's a chance it is too small to carry the full neutral load for this application.  I am not sure, but from that wiring diagram but it looks like the neutral tab on the 120V receptacle is the neutral-ground bond.

I think it would be possible to modify the wiring and install a L14-30R receptacle, but it wouldn't be a modification I'd be comfortable making.  The alternative would be to use a transformer between the generator and the backfed breaker, but at that point maybe you just buy a different generator better suited for the application .


MWBC (Multi-Wire-Branched-Circuit) w/out joined breakers, how best to fix?

Make sure those "adjacent breakers" are in fact not "double-stuff" breakers.  That's especially a problem in GE Q-line panels with their 1/2" tall breakers, where 2 adjacent breakers may in fact be on the same pole.  If each of the two breakers is 3/4" or 1" tall, you are in the clear of that problem.

Yes, the simplest way to eliminate a MWBC is to nut all the hots together and pigtail them to a single 1-pole breaker.  Now it is 1 plain circuit with much lower circuit capacity, of course.

Indeed that could be a 1-pole GFCI/AFCI breaker.

However, for about twice the cost, they do make 2-pole AFCI/GFCI breakers.  These are great for protecting MWBCs and also NEMA 10-wired ranges or dryers.

If you don't want to do that, two single breakers can be tied with a listed (safety certified)  "handle tie" made for that panel and breaker type. These do not provide common trip (much) but do provide the Code-required common maintenance shutoff. Handle-ties are hard to find, much easier to find are 2-pole breakers, at about $9, which do provide common trip.

MWBCs do not need common trip but do need common shutoff for the reason you now know.

1-pole GFCI breakers cannot be handle tied to serve a MWBC.  Most 1-pole AFCI breakers cannot be handle-tied to protect a MWBC, but a new type is emerging which can.


What is the maximum sub-panel amperage I can use, and is my setup okay?

That cable's absolutely worthless to you in this situation...
First off, that cable's worthless for what you need it to do, as NEC 338.12 point 2 says that type SER (and SEU for that matter, not to be confused with USE) cables cannot be run underground, conduit or no conduit:

338.12 Uses Not Permitted.

(A) Service-Entrance Cable. Service-entrance cable (SE) shall
not be used under the following conditions or in the following
locations:

...

(2) Underground with or without a raceway

...and you're better off just slapping a fat conduit or two in anyway
Besides, starting with the wire is an absolutely backwards way to do things, especially considering that installing fat conduits (a 1.5" or 2" PVC for power, and an additional 1" PVC for telecom if you wish) in your trench means that you won't have to dig things up later if you decide your shed needs MORE POWAH.  You'll want to use prefabricated sweeps to bring the conduit up at each end, along with expansion joints to take up ground movement.  You'll also get a slight benefit with regards to burial depth here, but it's not enough to be particularly significant, so going down 24" is recommended anyway.
Once you've done that, then you can pull a bundle of individual THWN or XHHW-2 wires through the conduit for your hots, neutral, and ground, getting to pick the gauge of wire based on how many amps your shed plans actually call for and how much load your service can support instead of having to limit them based on the cable you have on hand.
GO BIG OR GO HOME
The other factor is that there really is no limit as to how many breaker spaces you can have on a single feeder, and nobody ever complains about having too many!  As a result, I'd grab the biggest panel you can find, space-wise; in fact, I consider a 100A or 125A, 24-space panel the bare minimum for a generic outbuilding situation.  Note that you'll want a main breaker panel here so that you don't have to provision a separate disconnect for the shed; it doesn't matter that the main breaker in the subpanel is bigger than the feeder as the feeder breaker in the main panel is protecting everything anyway.


First of all you want to start slow on this with a little spot cleaning to learn what works in your particular situation. I've used power washers with detergents or bleach with success in these situations but you do have to be careful.

Sometimes the cure is worse than the disease. Often when you clean brick or any surface you can end up with uneven coloration unless you do the entire wall. What I would suggest is start small with a light bleach solution (1 cup to 1 gallon water) and a brush (not wire) and try it on a small area that's not conspicuous.

Getting it to match the surrounding brick is the tricky part. You want elbow grease but not too much - and feather out the edges to blend it. Let it dry to see if it did the job. If the bleach solution doesn't work you might have to go to a commercial product. Prosoco is one but there are others. If you can get the coloration close but still not what you want you might be able to even it out further with power washing. But once again for best results you may need to power wash the entire wall.

Also if you do power wash you'll need to be careful around windows and cover and protect lights and that external speaker you have. Your brick looks in good condition but avoid any areas with the power wash where the mortar is loose or has gaps - maybe around windows. Good luck!


Can I enclose my new boiler in a closet?

Given that setup, I can't think of any reason you'd need to draw inside air. On the other hand, I'm not sure you want it entirely at outside temperature, from the point of view of freezing risk when not circulating. (Then again, I'm in a northerly climate; you may not be.)

Did the folks who installed it have any opinion on this approach?

Make sure there's enough space around the unit to (a) meet its specifications for fire safety and (b) allow servicing it and its support plumbing/pumps/whatever without having to rip down and rebuild that closet.


Can you touch up epoxy garage floor paint?

I called up Rustoleum to ask about their EpoxyShield product since that's what was used previously.

They informed me that the epoxy coating needs to be reapplied every 3-5 years (which is about how old the current coating is.)

Recommendation was to scuff sand existing epoxy coating with 60 grit sand paper over the entire surface to aid with adhesion, clean, allow to dry and recoat.

Basically, just treat it like painting over any other type of glossy paint.


Trying to swap 1 outlet with a switch that doesn’t control outlets

Change the bottom one.   Black to a switch screw, the hot on the lamp's cable goes to the other switch screw.  The white does not go to the switch but goes to the lamp cable's  white wire.


Attaching small, nearly zero weight cable clips directly to drywall without anchors

Keep in mind what you're dealing with here.  Drywall is chalk between 2 pieces of paper.  Here, take a piece of chalkboard chalk. Soak strips of newspaper in 50/50 elmers glue and water mix, and roll them around the chalk.  Let dry.  Congrats, you've made drywall.

However, fragile as it is, an ethernet cable is a trivial load.  It'll be fine.

Just so you know, the National Electrical Code does have a chapter on non-PoE Ethernet wiring, it's in chapter 8 (800 et.seq.) And better, as Section 90.3 says, “Chapter 8 is not subject to the requirements of Chapter 1 through 7 except where the requirements are specifically referenced in Chapter 8.” So there are several ordinary requirements you can ignore.

However, chapter 1-7 requirements which prohibit data cables still apply.  You cannot use mains wiring or conduit as a hanger to support data cabling.  You cannot run data cabling inside a box or conduit containing mains wiring.  Code requires mains wiring to be able to contain an arc-fire event where insulation melts; and if a mains wire melted into comms wires, obviously it would put mains voltage on equipment not rated for it, which would spread the hazard.

If you're doing PoE, depending on the load that may push you into Class 2 or Class 3 wiring methods, but that's beyond the scope of your question.


How do I unclog outside water drainage pipe?

I have a grate exactly like that one in my basement floor drain. You should be able to flip it up with a flat screwdriver or similar tool and pull it out of the way so you can run a snake down the drain.

I would start by using a shopvac to clear all the water above the drain. Then pull off the grate and start snaking. Impossible to guess how far you will need to go.

The big question is "what" is clogging in the drain. Since this is outside, it could be connected to your main drain and have "normal" drain clogs - e.g., lint, grease, etc. that a snake can relatively easily get through. But it is also possible that it is roots (which a snake can handle, but is sometimes quite a bit of rock) or even accumulated dirt/sand/gravel which may be really tough to break through. Only way to know is to try.


Open ground indication on tester when connecting appliances to any outlet on same circuit

Stop.  Stop worrying about the silly message from a $3 tester.

We call them "Magic 8-ball" testers

Because like the magic 8-ball, whatever answer is stated on the legend is an amusement at best.

The style of these testers is to have 3 lights and a litle "legend" that tries to interpret the lights.  Worse, newer testers embed a little computer that changes what the 3 lights mean!  On the originals, the lights are semi-useful if you understand what they are indicating and how to interpret half-lit lights.  (And your tester is built well enough you don't see bleed-through between lights). The legends were always useless.  one is in my toolbox for the lamps.

I don't know if your tester is an "at least the lamps are ok" ones or not.  Assuming that it is, and you are getting two yellows and one yellow extinguishes with a big load attached.... But the load works.

It might be exactly what it says on the tin, a weak neutral-ground bond, but with these, it usually isn't.

Start upstream

It sounds like the 5 receptacles are hooked together properly, so I would look upstream (toward supply).  Either a sixth outlet* you don't know about, or the panel itself.

To start, run this test on another circuit and see if it also does it.  That would make it a full-panel problem and we can just go there.

Then shut off this circuit breaker and scour the house for any outlets* that went dead.  Obviously those would be on the same circuit, and their box is worth looking inside for anything out of order.

Next go to the panel and scour the safety Equipment Grounding Conductor system in your panel for anything amiss.  Making sure all the grounds are on the ground bar.

If the panel is a main panel: it's the first panel past the meter, neutrals and grounds are spammed onto the same bar.  Inelegant but legal because of the next step.

Next, we need to go to the main panel/breaker and look at the Equipotential Bonding System. This is simpler than it sounds: it's a fat wire between neutral and ground bars in the main panel only.  This can't be too beefy.   Sometimes this is a magic green screw in the neutral bus that screw into panel chassis.  I have seen those fail. I prefer a beefy #4 bare wire from neutral bus to ground bus or chassis.  When I say One Place I mean the one main panel. Redundancy inside that panel is permitted.

Neutral and ground must not be bonded anywhere else.

Lastly we can declare the grounds "golden" once we look at the Grounding Electrode System - but that isn't involved in this problem.

If you have an older subpanel that only has a 3-wire connection (hot-hot-neutral) then you may see grounds on the neutral bar in that subpanel.  That is obsolete and a bit dangerous.  You are allowed to retrofit just a ground wire back to the main panel, and separate neutral and ground in that subpanel, as is normal for new work.

Back to the branch circuit

If you found any grounding system defects, that should lick it.   If not, we have to go back to the branch and check it through-and-through for defects.  I assume you've a) already been doing that, and b) doing it correctly, so at this point the most likely failure point is b).  Re-educate on how to do this stuff, and take another look.

* an "outlet" means any point-of-use for electrical power, not just receptacles.


Since you are adding exposed supporting bracket for the shelves, and fairly large one at that, 1x2s, screws are the appropriate way to attach and remain removable.  Pre drill the holes and contersink for the screw heads in the wood strips.  Select screw length to just go deep enough in the side without punching through.

Screws similiar in size to drywall screws- 1-1/4 or 1-1/2" long, Measure the thickness of the wood strip and the cabinet wall to determine the screw lengh. Screws long enough to get good penetration in the cabinet wall without punching through the inside.


Is it correct for air to flow into home from under an addition?

Radon emitted from soil can pass through concrete quite easily. Furthermore, concrete and other earth products themselves can emit radon as well.
The fresh air vent coming from under an addition will not be any better with or without a concrete pad if the radon source is not properly mitigated.
If you have a concern for radon exposure in your home the only practical solution is to have your home professionally tested and mitigated if necessary.


Can an AAV be in a crawl space if the P trap is also in the crawl space?

It is acting as a vent, it should be above the the sanitary tee.
In  a washing machine drain set up the  Drain goes  to a Ptrap and then into the side inlet of the  san tee, Vent goes out  from top of tee to vent or an AAV.


How to drive a nail in a confined space?

I think what you need is a Palm Nailer.  You can get these in air or electric powered versions.  They are compact and are handy to drive nails in tight spaces.


Supporting a glass floor panel as a part of a floating deck

You can get angle iron at your local home improvement store. You would probably want to get some strip foam for padding. This can be as simple as strip closed cell foam for weather stripping around door frames, or it can be more of a rubberized material for better wear and less likely to compress. This can also be weather stripping for doors.

I'd go with at least 1" steel angle, which will deflect much less than 1/2". If you really want support, go for 1-1/2" steel angle or 1" steel square tube. The larger angle might not be as readily available, but the square tube can probably still be sourced at home improvement stores. I know Lowe's, Menards, Ace Hardware, and Home Depot generally carry the 1" angle and the 1" square tube.

It's mild steel, so paint it or it's likely to rust. Even though it's "mild" steel, it should still provide plenty of support for the glass.  Seeing as the glass shouldn't deflect at less than 600 lbs. anyway, this is more for looks and your own piece of mind, rather than structure.

Also, I'd support it from the deck, not the house. Even though the deck is attached, there can still be some movement between the two. You don't want the glass panel to become a tripping hazard when/if the deck sinks even 1/4". I'd also use lag bolts. In my experience nails have a tendency to work their way out. Deck screws might be enough, but they also might not be. With lag bolts, one on each end should be more than enough and aren't likely to ever come out.


What is the term for an adjustable spanner with the opening at the side?

It's a monkey wrench, if you can believe that, or a coach wrench.

  Adjustable coach wrenches for the odd-sized nuts of wagon wheels were manufactured in England and exported to North America in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. They were set either by sliding a wedge, or later by twisting the handle, which turned a screw, narrowing or widening the jaws. In 1840, Worcester, Massachusetts knife manufacturer Loring Coes invented a screw-based coach wrench design in which the jaw width was set with a spinning ring fixed under the sliding lower jaw, above the handle. This was patented in 1841 and the tools were advertised and sold in the United States as monkey wrenches, a term which was already in use for the English handle-set coach wrenches.

And no, it wasn't named after a guy with a funny surname.


Ceiling junction box not hooked up to switch?

If it's a rental, some places will not install overhead fixtures in the bedrooms. There's a couple of ways to play this

Add a surface mount box extender from the existing ceiling box and surface mount wire conduit. Run this to a surface mount switch on the wall and you're set.
Buy some lamp cord, an outlet, and electrical staples that fit said cord. This is not code, but I've taken the cord, run it to where I need to mount the fixture (in my case, into the ceiling), wired it up, stapled it to the wall to keep it out of the way and plugged it into the switched outlet. Because you have both a plug and switch, it's not terribly unsafe (I had a ceiling fan I put in an apartment this way). It's not kosher without a box, tho.


It looks like a plug in a barbed fitting for hose with clamp attachment. When not being used, the drain is sealed by the plug.

I would apply heat to the barbed section causing it to expand slightly and loosen it's grip on the plug. A hair dryer might work, if not an electric heat gun set to LOW worked all the way around the barbed section for a few minutes then try turning it out again - and remember "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey".


How do I weatherize after removing old deck?

Yes I would install a vapor barrier. You can use house wrap such as Tyvek or roof felt paper.  Make sure that the top piece overlaps the bottom piece.  Vinyl siding is easy to remove and replace so you can remove a few pieces, just keep them in order, so you can lap the wrap correctly. There is a tool that helps with removing and replacing the siding.


How can I replace a sliding glass door with a broken seal?

If repairing the glass as RQDQ suggests does not pan out, you have three options:

Order replacement glass.   Typically a company that specializes in glass replacement would measure the panel, order replacement glass, and install it in the fixed or moving panel from your door.  Manufacture and shipping of the custom dual-pane glass panel may take from one to several weeks.
Order a replacement panel from your door's manufacturer.   This may or may not cost more than replacing the glass, but you will be able to replace the panel with basic DIY tools and skills.   This may not be possible if you cannot locate the original manufacturer or if an exact match is no longer available.
Replace the entire door unit.  This may be appropriate if the original door is not high quality, you want to upgrade, or perhaps if you want to change finishes (from metal-clad to wood or vinyl-clad, for example).   This will require more skill, as you will need to remove and replace trim inside and outside the door, and possibly will involve removing and replacing siding in the vicinity of the door.

In either of the last two cases, it is more than a 1-person job; be sure to have help to safely handle the removal and replacement of the panel or door unit.


Why do my LED shop lights flicker when my compressor turns on?

I don't believe motor starting flicker is the source of your problem. I have the same issue, and during my time working at a power company, there was actually one client who had this same issue after retrofitting to LED tubes.

The flicker that you notice is well below 60Hz(My assertion, not yours) and is continuous from your descriptions as the compressor runs. The discussion of the starting capacitor or a soft start is actually a totally different problem. What happens when your compressor begins its compression stroke, and proceeds to end it, is that the torque required to turn it increases steadily and then drops off sharply as the compression stroke is finished and the piston passes over top dead center.

This varying motor load results in the line current varying at a lower than 60Hz frequency (typically the compressor turns much slower than 60Hz). As the current varies up and down in phase with the compressor, the voltage drop across your wires also varies, meaning the voltage at the LED bulbs is also going down and then up every time there's a compression stroke.

For reference, my compressor is a behemoth I inherited from my father. It's rated at 5HP and draws 28 amps RMS on a 240V circuit, and still causes this problem. The fact that my pole barn is the furthest thing from the service entrance on the house (and thus the transformer) doesn't help, nor the fact that I have a 10kVA transformer. The compressor operates at about 3-4 Hz (estimated based on my hearing) and the lights flicker about that fast too.

The problem is due to poor light design (assuming your voltage flicker is in spec, and it very well may be, as my former company had done voltage studies on a customer with this problem to see if the flicker was caused due to out-of-spec flicker voltage and found nothing). I haven't torn apart any of the LED tubes I used to retrofit my house, but I suspect they forego active power factor correction circuits in order to make them cheaper, because that type of circuit should be able to compensate for this type of issue(Look up Active PFC).

Whether or not light-strip-in-fixture LED lights have better designed power supplies or not I cannot comment on because they are obnoxiously expensive($80 USD per fixture where I can retrofit a 4ft 4 light LED fixture to LEDs for 10 bucks a bulb at $40 USD!) and that has prevented me from purchasing them.


Freezer part of KitchenAid fridge not freezing

When this happened to me (the day of my wedding!), the repairman replaced the logic board in the back of the freezer compartment. Problem solved. According to him this is a common failure in KitchenAid side-by-side fridges.


My toilet won't flush, and just adds water

Had a similar problem last year. Called a plumber and he found that the drainpipe was clogged by roots close to the street which prevented the water from escaping. If your toilet has an inspection outlet you could check to see if this is also full to find out where the blockage is. Next step would be to call your Water supplier to find out if the blockage is on their land (street-side). If they tell you the blockage is on your property, then you would call a plumber as they have the equipment to find and clear the blockage.


Should I redo this wall to avoid a mold sandwich?

For a pure shower (not bathtub), I always put a membrane on over the backerboard.  Redgard is my preferred choice right now so I would be fine with that choice.

I really don't think there is anything that you need to do.  If I am putting plastic behind my backer I should see it sticking out under the backer and over the base in the picture - it would be covered by the lowest row of tile.  It's not... not the biggest deal in the world if you have a membrane plus backer.

Final take: There is nothing wrong with Zhentar's advice.  If I were doing a bath/shower combo it is exactly what I would say.  However with the use of caulking for all of the gaps I would one a solid membrane over the area.  The fact is the caulk will dry out expand/contract and may leak after 5 years or so.  You are binding the caulk to larger materials like the DS which will have different expansion rates.  With a membrane you have one solid surface that is made not to crack.


Any Sheetrock, including green moisture resistant, is not intended for use in showers or any environment with repeated direct water contact. You can paint it , but the results will be the same, FAILURE !  Do not attempt to put tile on Drywall either. There are some new high tech backings or you can use good old fashion concrete board or hardi-backer for tiles.  If you want a water proof glossy finish, you may have to consider a fiberglass surround kit, which can be installed over green sheetrock or preferably directly over studs with a vapor barrier.


The casing is more than likely nailed or screwed to the ceiling joist on the side that does not move. It may be possible to open a small slot along the face of the joist. Then run a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) along the face of the joist, eventually cutting the attachment fasteners and freeing the casing.

The risk here is you could damage other things attached to the joist, such as wiring. If that happens, you'll need to do the alternative approach. Partly to access the fasteners and partly to repair the damage.

The alternative approach is cut out a big enough panel in the ceiling to give you room to work and remove the fasteners anchoring the casing. Patching the hole isn't too much work, though matching the texture finish can be tricky. You may have to settle for a less than perfect match.

If grounding is at all possible, such as bonding to a nearby metal cold water pipe, it should be done. However you are not required to retrofit a grounding system to your house to replace one fan. If there is no reasonable grounding means, leave it unattached.


If you have 2 open slots in your existing panel you could put a breaker in no sub panel is needed. If you do not have open slots you can add couple of double stuff breakers to open up space. For the 50A 240 circuit if the existing main panel is rated for doubles.


Is it possible to use BC to ES adaptors in a custom light fixture?

There's really no reason that you couldn't. It won't be UL listed, of course, but folks have been cobbling their own lighting for decades. Use common sense with regard to connections, insulation, and wire sizing and protection and it should work fine.

One minor issue might be screw length, but you can almost certainly replace them with longer ones for a few nickels.


When to turn on the water for my washing machine?

Most modern machines will self regulate the amount of water allowed to enter the washer. The typical washing machine is connected to the water supply by a hose. The hoses can fail with age. The most common use of a shut off valve like yours is to stop the flow of water when the machine is not in use. So you would open the valve allow the washing machine to run it's complete cycle. You would then close the valve to prevent flooding the apartment in the event the hose leaked while unattended.


It would be unusual for the oven to only work properly at 240v, as this is not a common household supply voltage in the US and it appears from the Kitchenaid listings on most appliance web sites that they don't SKU up different voltages.  Kitchenaid appears (from a manual I found here: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/287527/Kitchenaid-Architect-Series-Ii-Kerk201.html?page=11) to make at least some of their appliances 208/240 compatible via a menu option to select the type of voltage for more precise control.  The only real change that happens when using 208 vs 240 is a decrease in the design wattage (since the same conductors move fewer watts at 208 vs 240). If you can let us know your model and/or a pic of the oven nameplate (sticker inside the door) that would help us clear up the rest of it.

Its impossible to say if this is affecting your baking abilities but from the description of your problem, does your oven have a convection mode and have you tried turning it off when baking?  Using it will totally throw off recipes that involve delicate substances like batter.


If the present paint on the doors is indeed sticking very well and the surface finish is conducive to overcoating then I would recommend a process to fill in the peeled out areas with a spackle or drywall mud. Apply one of these materials with a putty knife, let it dry and then lightly sand to get a smooth even surface. Sometimes it is necessary to apply a second coat of the filler.

You can perform some tests of how well the existing paint is adhering to the wood. Near the existing chipped out areas look to see if the nearby edges of paint would easily pop off if picked at with a knife point or other sharp object. You can also use an aggressive tape such as Gorilla Tape and see if a quick removal of the tape would peel away additional paint. If peeling is apparent then you will have to remove the old paint.

If it turns out that you would have to remove the paint completely from the old doors you would likely want to consider the use of paint stripper. This is a jelly like liquid that you apply to the paint with a brush. It will soften the paint so that it can be easily scraped off. It may require several applications of the paint stripper to get all the paint off - especially if there had been multiple coats previously applied. Steel wool can be used to remove softened paint on edges, corners and curved areas where a scraper does not work very well.

Paint stripper is pretty noxious stuff so use in well ventilated area and wear applicable protective gear to keep yourself safe. Stripper can burn your skin and be very harmful to eyes so make sure that the gear includes good rubber gloves and face shield.

Sanding is another method to remove old paint - however if the paint on theses doors is very very old there is a possibility that it is lead bearing paint. If this is the case it is not recommended that you sand the paint at all and consider other alternatives to provide for containment of the lead based paint.


Drywall screws snap off when trying to fix squeaky subfloor

It won't likely cause a problem, and it may resolve the squeak. Drywall screws are very hard and somewhat brittle to keep them from stripping during install. For that reason, they're not ideal for your current purposes.

That said, I'd consider those screws too small. You only have 3/4" remaining after you go through the subfloor (at most). Also, you won't be able to easily remove them later if you need to.

I'd use 2-1/2" construction (gold) screws from a good manufacturer (cheap screws are cheap) instead.


Installing a horizontal fence over the existing vertical fence

I would need to know more about the existing condition of your fence. If you could send me a picture that would be great. I would definitely recommend that your existing fence be in very good shape if you were going to add on to it. If it were old and rickety it wouldn't do you a whole lot of good to put new materials on top of it that's for sure. There's a lot of things to consider. Are you a fasteners I.e. your nails or screws coming loose on your fence? Is the wood rotted or warped? All that stuff makes a big difference in what you are asking. Another thing that is very important is your 4x4 post that are in the ground if they are loose I certainly would not add more weight to the fence. I would hope they were set in concrete from the beginning If they weren't I wouldn't even consider doing this.


which comes first painting walls or stippling the ceiling

Personally I would do the final coat on the ceiling and then the final coat on the walls - “cutting in” has to be done either way.


Installing a ceiling light with screw holes that don't match the ceiling bracket

You need to acquire a light fixture mounting bracket. The type that you need would look like the bracket as shown in the picture below:

Install it through the longer slotted holes into the existing electrical box holes. You can use the screws from the old light fixture.

Due to the deep recess of the electrical box the bracket arm with the long slotted holes will reset against the ceiling drywall. The other arm needs to be oriented so that the ends project down from the ceiling so that there is clearance for the screws from the light fixture to go into the threaded hole but not have to enter the ceiling surface. This picture will help to show the mounting strategy:

The new fixture then can mount into one of the sets of threaded holes in the other arm of the bracket.


Can I install sheet vinyl flooring in a basement that gets wet on occasion?

Before you jump too far, you should figure out the exact source of the water. When you're talking about puddles and streams, I'm thinking leaks and cracks, and not moisture coming through the concrete.

To check for moisture in the concrete, tape a large square piece of clear vinyl down using duct tape (at least a foot square) at a time when the floor is very dry. Leave it for a while, and if there is any water or moisture in it, you'll know it's coming through the concrete.

The problem is that if you have any amount of moisture coming through that way, anything you stick to the floor (like vinyl tiles) will be disrupted by it: it will get in the adhesive from the tiles, and they'll eventually all come unstuck.

Another source of water is cracks and leaks around windows, the joint between the floor/walls, etc. On a rainy day, you may be able to see water coming in, and you may just be able to spot these (especially cracks) visually. There are different ways to fix these problems, depending on exactly what it is.

Yet another common source is by an overflowing sump pit, which is just what it sounds like it. If you have a pit, and your pump is not working, or can't keep up, obviously that water has to go somewhere. It's also a very good idea to have a secondary battery-backed pump if you have a basement prone to flooding. Since you didn't mention this in the question, it's probably not the problem.

Assuming you have fixed any all-out leaks, and are just dealing with water wicking through the concrete, a product like Subflor or DeltaFL (available at any big box stores) would probably be the best choice, if you're really intent on having some kind of flooring (eg, using the basement as a finished room). It's basically a plastic membrane with dimples in it, which leaves about 3/8" of an air gap for drying, and also provides some insulation for the floor above. Subflor comes in 2x2' tiles with OSB attached, and DeltaFL comes in rolls, and you put plywood or OSB sheets on top, or you can install hardwood or laminate directly on top (deltaFL also acts as a vapour barrier).


You can legally change the outlet, as long as it is “GFCI Protected” and marked “No Equipment Ground".  You'll get the safety benefits of a third wire ground, though not all the surge protection benefits of your power strip.  The GFCI units do use some 'vampire' power, about 1 Watt, 24/7.

Section 406.3(D)(3) of the 2008 National Electric Code covers this situation.

Consider also a whole house surge protector, and if you have K&T wiring, an AFCI on the K&T.  That said, if any of this sounds unfamiliar, hire a home inspector to check out everything and provide advice as to priorties.


I would have notched the top plate of the piece of wall that is abutting the steel pole.  The goal here is to provide a flat plane and nailing edges for drywall.

Assuming the post is the end of your wall.  Since the steel post is proud of the edge of the 2x4 wall on one side probably the easiest thing is to cut strips of ply that pull the 2x4 wall to the same plane as the steel post.  I'd laminate all of the 2x4s by 1/2 or 1" whatever that post is proud of that side of the wall.

Then put a 2x6 ripped to the width of your new laminated wall and cut to the height of the post notched to the steel plate at the top.  I'd PL premium the 2x4 to the post and steel plate.  Sill gasket the bottom as there would be no pt plate.  Then you can drywall per normal such that the post is embedded in the framed wall.  I'd probably redo the top plate of the wall that approaches from the other side of the steel post so the drywall can be nailed all along in the same line.

Good luck.


How can I ground a fluorescent light that I'm attaching a wall outlet plug/cord to?

I'm not sure of the code implications, since that will depend on where you live. But if you're going to put a power cord on a fixture designed to be hardwired with ground, just use a power cord that provides ground as shown. Also, be sure to use a clamp, rather than let the power cord get abraded by the sheet steel fixture of the housing.

This image is from a sink disposal "power cord kit" sold on amazon (US).


Light switch to quickly toggle power on and off for LED control

That's a recent trend in LED lights; the driver changes to give you different color temperatures or even colors by "coding" it with the switch. You don't need anything special, a standard toggle switch is fine. You flip the switch on for the first level, on and off and back on to change to the second level, on-off-on-off-on for the third, on-off-on-off-on-off-on for the 4th (if there is one). This type typically is NOT suitable for dimming, mine is not. Basically if the instructions do not EXPLICITLY say you can use a dimmer, you cannot.


Measure from the top of the bottom sash to the top of the window casing. Get two pieces of wood about 2" by 2" and long enough to reach from the sash to the top of the casing. Cut them long enough to be a tight fit. With the wood wedged in the a/c unit should be secure. This also works on first floor units where added security is a factor as the window cannot be easily opened from the outside.


Old washing machine takes long and longer to do a cycle

If moving the programmer forward a notch fixes it, it's most likely simply a failing stepper-motor on the programmer. I've fixed a similar vintage machine with a similar fault.
It's not terribly hard to fix, but the programmer can be fiddly to disassemble (in a "re-assemble-able" manner) because they have lots of gears. If you can get to the end-shafts of the steppers you can see which is failing by attaching a 'flag' or marking it, to see which isn't moving.
I believe these items are fairly generic; When mine failed, I went into our local appliance-repair store with the old one in my hand, not really expecting that they would have one, and would have to order it in. I'd barely opened my mouth, when the guy at the counter reached behind him without really looking and put a new one on the counter!
Obviously, the usual caveats apply; be careful when operating the machine with exposed mains, and rotating parts which can trap unwary fingers. It goes without saying that it should be unplugged before any repairs are attempted.


How to remove tar left over from old floor carpet?

I just wet it with soap and hot water, maybe a few times over the course of a half hour, and then use a wallpaper scraper.


Could water temperature fluctuations be caused by new plumbing?

The Most common cause of this when there are renovations is cross connection of the hot and cold lines, this can be caused by

The shower/bath (or other similar fixtures with a breaching piece) are capped with wall caps (or spindles that don't have a washer in them) and the water can circulate between the hot and cold pipes.
The "stubs" under the sink are connected via a pipe externally till the plumber comes back.
The Plumber has cross connected the pipes in the wall (Damn!)


Should base trim have a gap between it and laminate flooring?

I've never encountered a flooring that recommended that, and if one did I wouldn't install it (or I'd deny that request). It would look odd.


Home extension causing existing structure damage

I don’t know Canadian law, but in America 1) the contractor must be licensed, 2) a licensed contractor must have a bond to pay for mistakes if notified correctly, 3) be a member of a state licensing board that can review and make determination of “fault” and holds the bond to pay for such corrections. (There is an automatic 1 year guarantee period ...2 years for roofing in U.S.)
So, you’re on the clock. First, go take pictures immediately and make sure the pictures clearly show the problems. (You may need to use a level and square in the pictures to successfully illustrate the problems.) Second, I’d send notifications. Notifications should have pictures and clearly State the problem and what you want done to “fix” the problem. (You’ll need to hire an “expert witness” ...probably another LOCAL architect.) Notifications are by Certified Letter with return receipt. I’d send one to the contractor, with copies to his architect and one to the licensing board and one to the Building Official that signed off on the Permit. I’d also hire an attorney that is familiar with construction law.
If the contractor says he’ll “fix” it, then you want 1) what he intends to do 2) how he intends to do it , and 3) when he intends to do it...in writing with his architect’s signature. (Be careful they don’t stall you past the 1 year completion time. The 1 year issue starts when the Building Official signs off on the project, I think, but ask your attorney and licensing board. ) If it takes longer than a year, the bond disappears and the contractor can just change the company’s name and keep building.
The reason I tell you all this is because, as you say in your statement, you 1) don’t know how bad it is, 2) how to fix it, 3) if it will be a problem in the future. No one here knows either. You need an expert to examine it and offer a “means and methods” way to solve your problems.
I’d call the contractor and let him know what you are intending to do and offer to meet him at the site. You’ll get a good idea of what kind of contractor he is after he sees the problem.


Would insulating a basement wall with XPS and reflective insulation create a moisture problem?

A fast and accurate method is to open a wall example on the site
www.ubakus.com
and to add/change layers. Switching from U to R values can be done by clicking on the spanner icon next to the result.
Here is a screenshot from a similar question for a house in Europe.


Is it possible to wire 2 GFCI receptacles on 2 circuits with 12/3 wire shared neutral?

This will work as long as the breakers are not GFCI. As long as the GFCIs are after the shared neutral, you are fine.
BTW, this arrangement is called a multi wire branch circuit and you are required to use either a double (240 volt) breaker or two breakers with the handles tied together.


Aluminum wiring with dark discolouration on outside

Yeah, it looks like slow-cooked wires

The type of damage you have appears like the cable jackets have slow-cooked themselves from extended overheating due to overload.  While properly terminated aluminum wiring is normally OK to keep around, the overheating damage means that the cause of the overheat/overload should be found/corrected, and the damaged cabling runs replaced outright.


There are no issues if you are using mortar.  In fact medium temps and a little dampness is no big deal and will allow the mortar to cure slower resulting in a stronger bond.  I am not saying that you do this in a heavy rain but no need for tents unless it is monsoon season there.

However if you are using some sort of epoxy the walls need to be very dry and again tents won't help because you would have to keep ground water out too.  Then you would need to do this after 4-5 dry days and sometimes even more - all depends on ground water drainage around house.


How do I keep black tile and black grout actually looking black?

The issue is almost certainly, efflorescence from the grout being mixed with very hard water. While curing, the salts turn to a fine, light dust, causing the look from your photo.

The fix is a two-step process. First, clean the grout with a white, nylon bristled brush using a haze remover product like Custom Building Products Remover or Sulfamic Acid Crystals, depending on how noticeable the efflorescence. I have had much experience and successful results with these products as a bathroom renovation contractor. [I do not work for or am not sponsored by Custom Building Products or any of their affiliates]

FOLLOW LABEL INSTRUCTIONS. After you’ve scrubbed off the dusty residue “trapped” in the grout, rinse with cool, clean water to neutralize the acidic chemicals. Do a final  rinse and wipe-down with a clean, dye-free cloth using distilled water. Let air dry. After complete drying of 1-2 hours, apply two coats of a quality penetrating sealer, (I can recommend 511 or Sealer’s Choice) following manufacturer’s directions.

NOTE: There is one other option if you are trying to achieve the “wet look” with your tile and grout. You can use a “surface sealer” with a gloss finish for the second or “topcoat.”

This is a little bit of work, but you only have to do it once to have a beautiful outcome that will last for years. Sealers should be reapplied to grout once a year. Resealing tile yearly is as easy as a five minute wipe-down.

Finally, and most importantly to preserve this or any new, sealed grout and tile installation, grout and tile should never be cleaned with harsh products like bleach or very strong cleaners, even when they’re advertised as “for bathroom tile, grout.”

The harsh chemicals break down the protective coat of the sealer and slowly will allow bacteria, fungi, dirt and oils to penetrate the grout and ultimately stain and ruin the install.

Clean tile and grout surfaces with a very mild soap solution and a clean, dye free cloth. I have a 100% success rate with this type of repair and maintenance routine.

If you have any follow-up questions or need additional information, feel free to ask. Good luck! Please post photos after you’ve finished your repair.


My brand new hot water baseboard heater doesn't give off much heat

There are a number of possibilities:

Air in the system. After installation or repair, it's almost inevitable that some air gets into a hydronic heating system, and there are valves on each baseboard convector and at the pressure tank to remove air from the system. Though automatic bleed valves will slowly remove air, you can do so manually. Be prepared for some water overflow with rags and sponges, since fitting a pan underneath a convector is difficult.
Look for balance valves in the basement which shunt water between parallel routes, and check that the valve to the living room is fully open.
There may be flow valves at the end of the baseboard unit... depending on design.
During installation, a pipe was damaged or filled with solder.

N.B. Since you (or someone) paid for this work, it should be covered by warranty. Notify the installer in writing of the issue and have them fix it.


Installing a fiberglass shower in basement

Are you sure there's that much clearance under the shower?  I realize you have a 4" skirt but the floor usually drops back down to finished floor level.

I would be concerned with those two 90's so close together. you'd never get a snake down there if you had a clog. If you're going through all this work for a shower, take the time to do the drain right and bust up a little concrete. You would fill in the cutout with concrete. The floor of the shower will flex if not supported correctly. Supporting the floor will be easier with a straight down drain.


Adding a spacer block between king stud and switch box

That's common practice. As long as the framing member is rigidly attached it doesn't really matter what other function it serves or what it's called. (Jester stud?)


What's causing the rumbling sound when my furnace kicks on?

I'd have a look at your draft inducer motor.  Do a Google image search for "Furnace draft inducer" to see what it looks like.  I has the same kind of impeller as your main blower but on a smaller scale.  You may have some debris in there.


GFCI trips after adding new circuit to it

If you have too many receptacles on a 15 amp circuit this would be the issue as an AC unit will draw some current


Can't have a loose wire

"14/2" means a black, white and bare wire wrapped in a sheath.  "14/3" is the same except it also has a red wire inside the sheath.

If the red wire is outside the sheath, loose or tacked on, then it cannot be used. At all.  This is a totally improper wiring technique. Cap it with a wire-nut and tape, and push it into the back of the box. At the service panel end, just cut it - it is useless.  Whoever installed it did very bad work, and all the other work in the house should be reviewed against Code.

I know what he was trying to do, but you can't do that - so no point getting into the gory details.

Pigtails are fine

It's fine if circuits are pig-tailed with wire nuts and short lengths of wire to the receptacle.  That is a totally acceptable wiring method.

A workaround: put it all on a single circuit

The simplest thing is simply to wire everything onto a single circuit.  It's not good, it would certainly not meet new-build or remodel standards, but it is better than he had it.

When possible, you should pull at least two more 12 AWG/20A circuits, preferably three, and spread the loads out among them. Then retire the 15A/14AWG circuit, or dedicate it to a single thing such as the refrigerator.

Two ways to GFCI

You can install a GFCI breaker inside the panel.  That will protect everything on that circuit.  You must use a 15A breaker because there is any 14 AWG wire in the circuit.

Or, you can install a GFCI receptacle there at the switch.  You can decide which additional loads you would like to GFCI-protect by attaching them to the LOAD side of the GFCI.  If you put a "hot" on the GFCI LOAD terminal, you must also put its companion "neutral" also.  You may end up with 2 wire-nuts with 2 groups of neutrals: the unprotected and the protected.  If a hot goes through the GFCI and a neutral does not (or vice versa), the GFCI will trip.


I call it the “coke bottle effect”. It’s what happens when you take a coke bottle out of the refrigerator. The cold bottle will produce condensation when it meets with the warm room air.

In your case, the warm (probably moist) air from your bathroom is vented up to the cooler outside air. When the two meet and you reach the Dew Point, condensation is created by turning the warm moist air back to a liquid and runs down into your house.

One way of solving this problem is to insulate the duct and install a backdraft damper at the roof that seals the vent pipe.

When you installed the ceiling fan it probably came with a backdraft damper. This keeps all the air in the vent pipe at the OUTSIDE temperature. You want the air in the vent pipe kept at your INDOOR temperature.

I suspect you live in a cooler climate.


Don't use a 14-30. This is rated for 30 amps and if protected by a 30A breaker, a 20 amp cord/connector would not be protected properly.

The better choice is a NEMA 6-20 which is 240V 20A rated. You can buy pre-built 6-20 to C14 cables.


methods of detecting a copper pipe in concrete floor

This a is a very interesting question. I must assume, hopefully not wrongly, you are talking about a main supply line from the street. I can see no reason for an in house line to be embedded in the floor unless it feeds an out building or the like. In any case, an in-house line could be tracked back to some point of source and rerouted if necessary.
As for a street supply line, Mitch is correct in that the utility or a good metal detector can follow the line to the point where is enters the foundation. Usually it would follow a fairly straight path to the meter/main shut off from that point.  That would give you a good guess where the line is routed.  It will be very difficult to detect this line in concrete with rebar. The rebar will show on the detector and mask the copper. If you can find the point of entry, and follow it to the meter, use a placement for your sump pit far from this assumed line. As a precaution, I would be tempted to have the main water supply shut off while the sump pit is opened up. If you do hit the line, you won't have water gushing in at 70PSI.  If you're unlucky enough to find the line and damage it, then you can at least carefully work around it, clean up the line on either side of the damage and repair it in the sump hole.


Unplug the water pump on your wet tile saw and go ahead and use it. If you are worried about damaging your wet blade (I wouldn't be) you can buy a dry cut diamond blade for your wet saw.


Does building insulation wear out and have to be replaced?

Insulation will degrade over time. However, we're talking about decades, not months or even a few years. Even blown fiber or cellulose insulation should provide a good R-value for as long as the house is structurally sound; if you need to vacuum out and re-blow or re-lay insulation, chances are the house needs a LOT more work than that.

What is probably happening is exactly what BMitch said; keeping a place warm in the winter is easier than keeping it cool in summer. All the external heat sources such as solar gain that help you out in winter work against you in summer. Heat is also easy to come by; everything in your house that consumes electricity, natural gas, or food produces heat, by the second law of thermodynamics (no system in the universe can operate at 100% efficiency). Taking heat out of air is harder, because those same laws are now working counter to your goal, adding heat back in even to the system that is providing the cooling.

I'm from Texas, so I know a few things about heat. Here are some tips:

The best you can do with your average residential Freon evaporative system is about 30 degrees less than the outside air. The radiator in your exterior unit can, at its very best, only reduce the temperature of the compressed coolant to that of the outside air, then when the coolant is allowed to expand into a gas in your evaporator coil, the cooling effect of the state change produceas a delta of about 30*. So, if it's 105* outside, your best efforts inside will only get you to about 75*. Knowing that up front will allow you to adjust your expectations. You can go cooler than that, but most methods will require a second "piggyback" system that uses the air cooled by your main system to cool its compressor coil, which increases your energy cost per degree.
By the ideal gas laws, a given volume of air takes up less space and has lower pressure when cooled. This means your A/C, by taking a volume of warm air and cooling it, will give your house's interior a slightly lower air pressure than the outside, which will cause outside air to be drawn into the house anywhere it can get in. This makes a good weather seal, and keeping your doors and windows closed during the heat of the day, critical to keeping your house cool.
Anything that outside air can touch directly will conduct heat from the outdoors in. So, make sure every exterior surface of your home is well-insulated. Double-pane insulated windows can be an expensive retrofit, but they do quite a bit to help out in both summer and winter.
After the outside ambient air temperaure, solar gain is the next biggest source of heat gain in your house. Depending on the shade from trees around your house and the size of your windows, it may even be the primary concern. Solar screens on the outside of all windows are a must; without blocking out all light, they reduce the incoming infrared rays to drastically reduce solar gain. Horizontal blinds for windows and vertical blinds for patio and panel doors are also must-haves; in addition to blocking sunlight, they also give you a little R-value by trapping the air warmed by the windows between the window and the blind slats. Skylights look good and reduce your lighting bill, but they are designed to let in the sun, which lets in heat; consider a tint or screen. You can also make a removable radiant shade for windows you don't mind covering completely, by sandwiching a layer of aluminum foil between two layers of corrugated cardboard, with an appropriate decorative covering inside and out, then use some retaining brackets around the window frame to keep it against the glass. The foil, even behind the cardboard, will reflect heat back outside, without the tacky look of just plastering aluminum foil to the window, and the cardboard will give you a little R-value.
Stay low. Heat rises, so your upstairs will be warmer than your downstairs even if you have dual-zone HVAC. A lot of houses down here, especially newer ones, have the master bedroom on the first floor of a two- or three-story house, primarily for this benefit (it also helps the homeowners out as they get older; they can have the same two-story house they raised their kids in, without needing to climb stairs to get to bed).
You will be surprised how well a ceiling fan works to keep you cool even if the interior of your home is edging toward 80. The fan circulates air, which helps in two ways: it mixes the standing ait in the room with the air coming from the vents to provide a more consistent temperature throughout the room, and more importantly, the movement of air takes away the "heat bubble" that your body naturally builds around itself, and moves air against any sweat on your skin which speeds evaporation and cooling. However, it doesn't help much when you're out of the room, so only run the fans in rooms you're occupying.
Instead of fighting the sun over every inch of your home, consider using it to help you out. Solar water heaters and full-on solar generator panels use the free energy from the sun to lower the amount of energy you need to draw from your utilities. Because they soak up this energy, they also provide a little R-value over the areas they cover. They can be expensive though, and you'll have big expensive glass panels just waiting to be damaged in the next hailstorm; make sure your homeowners' insurance will cover solar panels in these cases.
Learn to acclimate yourself from season to season. Bumping up your thermostat to 76 vs 72 in summer, dressing cool and hydrating with cold drinks, just like setting it to 68 in the winter, boiling some tea and putting on a sweater, will save you more money than all these tips put together.


I'd trust the old reliable electrical tape over the liquid stuff.

Section 334.116 of the NEC (USA National Electric Code) talks about the sheath in very generic terms: it has to be flame retardant and moisture resistant, etc.  There is nothing particularly special or magic about the requirements.

I'd inspect the wire very very carefully, maybe even remove the paper to ensure nothing is going on below, wrap it, then mention and show it to the local inspector when your job is inspected. Maybe even write a note on the cable in sharpie.

The worst case is you have to splice the cable into a junction box that forever more must be accessible.


Upgrading electrical when re-doing siding & code question

You can't run it directly under the siding.

However, depending on how much siding you will remove during the process, it could be easier/cleaner to cut through the exterior sheathing to run new wiring. The cuts you make in the sheathing only have to be sealed against airflow and ambient moisture, unlike drywall which has to look good, too. There is much less work needed to repair exterior sheathing.


Connecting a ceiling fan with lamp to white and blue house wires

These fans have one hot wire for powering the fan (usually the black) and another another hot wire powering the light (usu blue). These go to separate pull chain switches in the fan assembly.
The fan and light share a neutral (white). Note that in your house wiring all neutrals will be white, but depending on the age of your house, white may be used for a hot or switched hot so it is not correct to just connect all whites without knowing the function of a given white.
The green is a ground so if you connected the green to either the black or the blue it would short to ground as soon as the switch was turned on with the breaker on. The green should be connected only to the ground of the house wiring.
If you have only one wall switch and so only one hot wire from the house (black), then connect the black and the blue of the fan to the black of the house. Separate pull chain switches allow  separate control of fan and light.


Adding old-work box without making a large hole?

The braced versions are designed to be installed through the same 4" hole that you'd use for the blue 'old-work' box. I wouldn't trust a 10lb light fitting to be kept up only by the strength of drywall - especially in a damp environment like a bathroom.


will installing a ceiling fan below recessed lights cause strobe effect

Yes, it can. If the lights are directly above the fan blades (not likely for recessed lights, but a surety on a fan with uplighting), you will have a stroboscopic effect all of the time and it will be the most pronounced. It will be more pronounced when the fan is spinning on lower speeds than higher speeds. The  farther the lights are situated away from the fan, the more the effect will be diminished, possibly to the point of not being noticeable at all.


How should I install a curtain drain in my crawl space?

Your basic plan sounds workable. I assume your crawl space is adjacent to a full basement area? I have a couple of questions. Where does the existing drain tile system empty? Is there a difference in level between existing basement floor and footings of the crawl space? the answers to these questions may change my answer to you.  But basically, adding a French drain or perimeter drain tile should help your situation. After your trench is dug, be sure to line it with several inches of gravel/crushed stone. Use perforated pipe with inlet holes or slots on only one half of the surface and be sure the slots are facing up when installed.  Wrap the pipe in common landscape cloth before backfilling with crushed stone to prevent the drain pipe from filling with sediment. Lay another layer of cloth over the stone and complete the backfill with clean grave.  Not sure how you plan to connect to the basement drain system, but that is another topic. This kind of work is always difficult, especially when working in a crawl space with limited head room.  Good luck.


How do I handle expansion joints in corners when tiling a shower?

I was told a decade ago when doing the same thing to not worry about expansion joints in the panels but instead do them where the corners are as the expansions come from shifts in the walls in relation to the floor - basically anywhere that the tile isn't flat but makes a change in plane.  In those areas use white silicone caulk not grout.  Seems to have worked fine.
As for expansion joints between the cement board and the wall itself - didn't put anything like that in.  Only put plastic in between the board and the wall.  I'm not sure you would want the cement board floating against the wall.


What is the difference between Square D and QP single pole circuit breakers, and can they be mixed?

Some research says that a QP circuit breaker is the 1" or 2" wide breakers that protect a 110V or 220V circuit respectively, and is made by Siemens.  Square D is another manufacturer of circuit breakers and service panels.

Ideally, you would want to have all your circuit breakers be manufactured by the same company that makes your service panel; the manufacturer will -- one hopes -- certify that their breakers will work correctly in their panels.  Some manufacturers produce breakers with the same mechanical fit as others, in which case it would be up to that manufacturer to say if their breakers will work in a panel made by the other.

I'm assuming that the Square D breaker actually fits in the service panel, so to determine if it's OK, you'd have to do some research to see if Square D certifies their products to work with the panel, or if the panel's manufacturer does the same.

(Side note: per NEC2008, smoke detector circuits have to be protected with an AFCI if there's a detector in a bedroom.  This might explain why that circuit is different.)


Can I feed 2 sub-panels off one breaker?

Since this is fed from a breaker in your main you can do it with both wiring methods but it would be considered a feeder and the wire size would need to be good for 125% of the breaker or 125A the way I interpret the code. If all the loads are non continuous it could be 100% but with all those spaces there will probably be a few continuous loads so better to be safe for the long run.


Can an open junction box be allowed over an enclosed ceiling?

Yes, you should install covers on the boxes.
You should be able to pick up covers at the local hardware or big box, fairly cheap. Just make sure you measure all the boxes, and note their shape, before heading to the store. If the mounting screws are not in the boxes, you'll also have to pick up some of those.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods
Article 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures.
314.25 Covers and Canopies. In completed installations, each box shall have a cover, faceplate, lampholder, or luminaire canopy, except where the installation complies with 410.24(B). Screws used for the purpose of attaching covers, or other equipment to the box, shall be either machine screws matching the thread gage or size that is integral to the box or in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

No, you cannot cover the boxes with drywall.  The boxes must remain accessible.

314.29 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, and Handhole Enclosures to Be Accessible. Boxes, conduit bodies, and handhole enclosures shall be installed so that the wiring contained in them can be rendered accessible without removing any part of the building or structure, or, in underground circuits, without excavating sidewalks, paving, earth, or other substance that is to be used to establish the finished grade.


what size of sub panel do I need for a small in law unit

I would use a 30 space panel, because that is a cost sweet-spot between "Make sure you never run out of spaces" and "sanely priced".  Electrical equipment is so cheap that there's no real economy in scrimping to the point of inconvenience.  And believe me, you will want to upgrade things later, if not in the near term, in the far.

The panel does not need a shutoff switch if it's in the same building. Generally if a shutoff switch were required, people simply get a panel with a main breaker; it's cheaper, but nevermind that.

If the panel has a bus rating or main breaker, that does not matter (as long as it's equal or larger than the feed breaker). So don't be bashful about getting a 150A or 200A panel.    The important thing is to get plenty of spaces.

I suggest a 60A cable feed and 60A breaker from the main panel.  The cable to use is #6 copper or #4 aluminum. (Aluminum starts to make sense at these large sizes).


First off -- I would redo the trenching job as it's not deep enough.  18" is the Code specified minimum for electrical and locations vary from 18" minimum cover to 24" minimum cover for gas -- going deeper yet is an option though.  Also: running the gas line inside a conduit sleeve could confuse the next bloke who has to work on this.

As to the co-location of gas and electrical -- it does not appear there are any Code mandated separation requirements for this.  If separation is desired, though, I would use a minimum of 36" horizontal separation (i.e. backhoe bucket width) -- any less, and I might as well have put them in the same trench anyway!

I would put a grounding rod at the subpanel -- Code requires this for outbuildings.  I would then use a 2 pole 30A regular breaker for the feeder breaker and then 15A GFCI breakers in the external subpanel -- using a 2 pole 30A GFCI to protect the feeder sounds OK, until you realize that a long run of wet wire is going to add significant leakage current and could trip the GFCI on its own even with the wire intact due to excess capacitive coupling to the ground wire.

Oh, and I would double check my LB to make sure it's volume marked i.e legal to make the splice in -- it should be, but it's best to be safe than sorry.


Looks like the tool used to clip animal nails. Even looks like it has a handy depth gauge, so you don't hit the vein in a dogs nail.

Professional Pet Nail Clipper


The mortar between my patio bricks is crumbling away

sounds like mortar
if it's mortar, you can re tuck-point it all. Scrape/grind out the loose stuff, put new stuff back.
not much you can do if it's exposed to the elements. How is your porch constructed? Are these bricks on a patio or some form of foundation?