Can I begin installing laminate flooring in a hallway?

You sure can. In fact, it's often best practice to start in a hallway, which is one of the places where a crooked installation really shows against the walls By starting there you minimize the chance of visual oddity.

Typically, wood flooring is installed parallel to the longer side of the room. In the case of a hallway, you'd run it lengthwise.


OK, lets start by correcting some terms. The structural members you want to raise are not rafters, they are ceiling joists. You are right that because you have balloon framed walls, that has no effect on the top layer of ceiling joists. Changing these joists have no effect on the balloon framed walls.
The thing you have to determine is if the ceiling joists are tied to a load bearing partition somewhere near the center of the house. If you have full roof rafters with a ridge board, it is very unlikely that the ceiling joists are tied into any down supporting bearing wall. Raising them should not be a problem if you plan for support of these joists if there is any center resting point,  via a knee wall on the center resting support.  If these joists span the entire width of the structure, then you can safely shorten them and reconnect them to the roof rafters.  They serve two purposes. First a ceiling joist, and second, a collar tie for the roof rafter. I think you will be fine, however, I'd love to see some pics of the attic area with the joists.   Good luck.


Which technique of wood joining is the best for joining these boards of a small table?

Biscuits for all joints will work fine. Across side panels to top. Along the two rails at the top and at sides.

Be sure to have a helper, and perhaps some extra temporary stretchers that match the rails (for the bottom).  That way you can clamp and square the sides first and put the top on last.


Light fixture is tripping the circuit breaker

If it trips the breaker right away (within a second or so) then you have a "dead short", which means one of the hot wires is touching a neutral wire or something else that's grounded. You will have to go through to double- and triple-check that the wiring is done properly and there are no stray hot wires.

If the breaker takes longer to trip (it can take up to 20 minutes in some situations) that indicates you have simply overloaded the circuit. Is there more wattage being drawn by the new fixture than the old one?


Right-Angle Adapters and Plug for Air Conditioner Exhaust

Look for the periscope vents at your local home stores or online. This particular one's from Appliance Parts 365, which I have absolutely no ties to.
End caps are also available at home stores too, next to the left handed screwdrivers.


The term to research is kick out flashing. It's used when a roof line butts up against a vertical surface near the edge. It sends the water away from the vertical edge into the gutter. Example:


How much weight can mild steel square tubing support?

The tubing that you suggested 1800mm x 25mm x 25mm with wall thickness of 3mm can be converted to an approximate dimension of 72" long, 1"x1" square outside size and a wall thickness of 0.118". The deflection calculator at this site suggests that such tubing supported at the very ends would experience a deflection of almost a half an inch with a 100 pound load applied right at the center of its length.

I would not consider this piece of tubing to be at all suitable for supporting a table or desk that was 1800mm from end to end and only supported at the ends. You would be far better off to use rectangular tubing that was 25mm x 50mm with the 50mm deployed in the vertical direction. You could also consider the use of 50mm x 50mm square tubing with a wall thickness of 5mm and achieve much better results.


Badly designed (or faulty) light dimmers chop the mains waveform instead of switching on the zero-crossing. That means they put out a massive amount of noise onto the mains. That's probably getting through to your ADSL equipment.


The lights could be on the same switch but if the 2 working are in front there may be a second switch for the one in back.


How do I assess what to replace during repairs after a severe roof leak?

If not dried out building materials are an excellent food source for mold. I would not wait but remove the sheetrock and wet insulation now, a dehumidifier is a good idea but fans circulating air may be enough. I don't use bleach because it stinks for a long time. I use a 3% hydrogen peroxide and water mix, it doesn't stink and is just as effective at killing mold. Depending on the length of time it has been leaking it may be possible to save all the wood even the wood that has surface mold now by spraying with the hydrogen peroxide mixture.

Most people don't know this but all wood contains mold spores at plywood plants the veneer is stacked after being pealed and within days the entire stacks are covered in mold. These are killed when the sheets get dried and the go through a second heating process when the sheets are glued together in Hot press. Dimensional lumber is sprayed with a fungicide as it is finished or it will turn before getting to the store and no one wants black lumber.

So get the walls open and kill the mold assess the wood condition if the wood is solid just surface mold spray it. One place you may have to replace floor decking is if underlayment. Has swollen and started to break down, this would need to be replaced after the leak is repaired and the frame work is dry re insulate and put up new sheetrock. One thing I have suggested to my customers is with the walls open it might be a great time to add outlets if any might be wanted. Much cheaper to do it with open walls.


What hinge is this and where can I buy them in the UK?

Hard to say exactly who made them because lets face it theres probably millions out there but a company called DCIRON makes very similar one
http://www.dciron.co.uk/hi3/


when my sump pump in the basement runs, the kitchen drain gurgles

It sounds like a venting issue to me. Did you vent specifically the fitting into which the sump pump dumps? Without a vent for itself the pump dump water is going to suck air from somewhere.  Also, now in our area all basement type pumps have to be dumped into a vertical line.  And I believe that vertical line has to be at least one pipe size larger then previously required.  P.


What is the practical limit to the wand length for a pressure washer?

The length is mostly limited by the width of the pipe in the wand.  So if you use a wand made for 6 feet and add 20 feet to it, you can expect the sheer weight of the wand to bend it.  Gravity works.


Water pressure low due to small pipes - any options?

It sounds like your shower valve does not have an anti-scald valve installed to protect people from this problem.

You could replace the shower valve with an anti-scald valve.
You could add an anti-scale valve in the lines going to the upstairs.

These solutions will not bring more water to the bathroom though. When someone flushes the toilet you will still get low flow to the shower. To solve that you need bigger pipes or raise the existing water pressure in the system. So...

You could replace the main lines feeding the upstairs with larger pipes. The small pipes in the walls feeding each fixture could be skipped. It is the main supply that is mostly restricting your flow. Especially if it is old corroded galvanized pipe. The corrosion could seriously restrict the flow.
You could increase the pressure if you are on a well. (This brings with it the hazard of creating leaks where there were none before) If you are on city water then you don't have this option.
You could do a combination of some of the above to achieve your goal.

I would recommend adding the anti-scald valve in a convenient location. Adding it to the shower may require removing a tile wall if you don't have an access panel, this would be very expensive. In that case I would add an in-line valve in the supply lines. I would also increase the size of the supply lines to increase your supply flow. After both of these, your problem should be nearly eliminated.

Good luck!


Why would I have two wires feeding one smoke detector?

If your smoke detector was 240V, then you would have a hot from each leg of your service powering it from two breakers.  There may or may not be a neutral, and there should be a ground.  The two breakers would need to be on top of each other (most breaker panels alternate legs) and should be tied together so they can't be operated independently.

If the smoke detector is 120V then I doubt it's being fed from two circuits and might have made an error in tracing.  The best way to know for sure is to measure the voltage with a multi-meter.


What guidelines exist for the number of screws needed to attach two pieces of wood?

I don't know if there's something for screws in wood, as wood's a rather strange material.

For bolts into steel, however, there's the AISC Manual (no prices listed, but expect it to be in the $300+ range); there used to be a separate book on joints, so you could calculate the strength based on the size of the fastener, bolt pattern, etc.  There was also a section for calculating the strength of different weld patterns.

Now, the rules for the optimal strengthy are going to be similar -- further apart will support a greater moment, so when the contact patch is a square, you want the first two to be in opposing corners.  If using four, fill all of the corners.  However, because it's wood, you have a chance of spliting, so you don't want to go too close to the edges.  (if you have to; pre-drill).

The other thing to remember is that with screws and bolts, the fasteners shouldn't be taking the full load -- they're pulling the structural material together, so that the load's transfered as friction ... this means if you see a gap between the two pieces, you need more fasteners.  If you have a really large contact patch, drop another screw in the middle.


Should I use an orbital sander or a belt sander for sanding a section of varnished floor?

I've got both types of sanders and I use the belt sander when there is a lot of wood to be removed and the orbital sander when the amount of wood to be removed is small. You have a little better control with the orbital sander. With the belt sander, it's easy to put some pretty deep grooves in your work before you know it. I'd go with the orbital sander.


The size of the hood does matter. As well as the distance from the cooking surface since this impacts the capture of the smoke and odors.

If two hoods have 900 CFMs, but one is 36 inches, and the other 30 inches, you will probably get better exhausting from the smaller hood. Because the velocity of air entering the hood is higher with the smaller hood area.

It won't make much difference if you buy a flat glass or curved glass hood because the shape of the entrance of the air didn't change much if it's still a rectangle.

The CFM to duct size question is mostly a matter of actual CFM, the flow will be reduced with a smaller exhaust duct.

You can use a smoke stick or matches to test the capture affect of your existing exhaust. Start far away from the stove top and move closer until you can "see" the air moving towards the exhaust. You can get an idea of how well your existing exhaust works and what you need to improve the design.

You could try cutting some cardboard and covering the existing opening. Either a flat piece with a rectangular opening or a more elaborate reducer. Then apply the smoke again and see how the capture changes. Put your and at the opening before and after you do this so you have somewhat of an idea of how the air velocity changed with open area.


How do I install GFCI on multi wire branch cicuit?

I believe I've seen that GFCI isn't recommended for high load appliances, particularly those with a motor (e.g. sump pump) and that it's not even required if the circuit is dedicated with a single outlet.

If you insist, then consider separate GFCI outlets for each device, wired in a double gang box. The GFCI will function perfectly normally since each is only protecting the outlet and not any downstream devices. That said, I would label this box as containing two separate circuits, so that anyone working on it in the future knows to turn both breakers off.

If you find and were to use a double pole GFCI breaker, I'd worry that this would confuse any electrician that works on this in the future, since that would usually indicate that a 220v device is installed on that circuit.


How can I fix this very noticeable brush mark?

Don't use a brush.
There is a 99.9999% chance that the original ceiling paint was done with a roller, and you should do the same.
The roller leaves those little stipple marks you see elsewhere on the ceiling, while a brush will leave straight lines. The straight lines will, as you've noticed, stand out quite nicely against the stippled background.
At this point, you're not really putting paint on the ceiling as much as you are putting a pattern on, so you should be able to do it with a reasonably dry roller. Light coats, applied in a zig-zag pattern until it disappears.


How to install springs on werner loft/attic ladders?

This is from the Werner Ladder Co. FAQ for wood folding attic ladders:

  For reattaching the springs on your model ladder you will need two people. One person will need to go into the attic and have the door closed. Once they are in overhead space and the person below is holding the ladder closed the springs will be able to carefully be removed. Please contact our customer care department at 888-523-3370 Monday through Friday 8 AM till 5 PM EST if you have any questions, or need any additional information

So... it seems to me that @keshlam's comment is correct, you need to use brute force. Get two people in the attic to help stretch the springs if you need to, while the door is held closed from below by a person standing out of the swing radius of the door and propping it up with a 2 x 4.

Or, using the above prescribed procedure for holding the door closed, have the person in the attic attach a "come-along" to the end loop of the spring and a sturdy anchor point. The spring could be easily stretched in this manner. Or fashion a block & tackle using some rope and a couple pulleys; it should be fairly easy to rig up a mechanical advantage for this.


The surface element controller has probably failed. Replace it. Personally I would use only a genuine GE part, but you may be able to get a genuine GE part cheaper than from GE. But if you already have a non-GE part on order you may as well try it. These parts cannot be easily tested with a meter by a DIYer. One just puts it in the range and sees if it works.

Note that your range will have different controllers for different sized burners, at least that is the case for mine.


List up any device you'd like to run from the generator, every machine and every lightbulb, too. Look into the manuals or on labels of these devices and sum up their power consumption (Volts and Ampere). Add 10% and look for the next bigger generator.


Adding permanent bolt holes in a sliding door

Threaded inserts are often used where repeated removal is needed.

They come in a variety of types, sizes and materials. The door core is likely softwood, and stainless or brass fittings are probably needed for exterior use. Some inserts come in a kit with drill bit and insertion tool.

Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


The pictures show a beautiful job so far.

Grout lines that are too narrow make tiles that have some size variation very obvious. In addition somewhat wider grout lines allow some minor tile misalignment to be accommodated without it sticking out like a big thumb. This includes variation in the tile X&Y dimensions as well as small variations of the laid height of the tile.

I suggest that you are very observant right now as you are forking over good money to get this installed. I would venture to guess that after the installation has completed and you have walked over it a few hundred times that you will be completely past any concerns that you have today.


I doubt the wall between the living and dining area is structural.

It appears you have a one-story (in that area) living space with roof trusses spanning 26’ from front to back of your house indicating no load don that wall.

Things to consider:

I’d go down in the basement below that wall and see if there is any posts coming down through the wall above, (you have a loft area so it’s not clear if the roof changes in that area),
verify that the ceilings in the living room and dining room match in height and texture (or can be modified adequately),
verify that there isn’t any plywood on the wall. If there is it could indicate that it’s a shear wall. Do you live in a high wind area or seismically active area? (I would suspect the other wall by the bedrooms would be a shear wall, if any.
verify that no heating ducts are in the wall. (If no registers, then I doubt there are any hidden in the wall.) I’d check by looking in the attic and basement.
There are no plumbing fixtures on the wall so I doubt there are any plumbing vents, etc. in the wall.
The dashed line directly below the words “Future Pantry” bothers me. It could indicate an electrical line, but it’s drawn perfectly straight, which usually indicates a wood furring space. If so, make sure no heating ducts are in it and it is not hiding a beam. (Make a small hole and look in over by the Pantry.)

Don’t forget you’ll need to patch the ceiling and floor where the wall is removed, so you’ll have that expense too.


Why is the water dripping from my patio furniture removing the sand from the joints between bricks?

It's going to take a few more re-applications of sand and more rain, until it will do it less. That's exactly what I'd expect it to look like after the first rain. 'Sand' it again.

Using a push broom and a garden hose, work the sand into the cracks. I'm guessing you skipped hitting it with water the first time, or the sand is too course to set properly. As those are some really tight tolerances on the gaps (nice work), I can see having a hard time getting it in there.

Work the problem areas with a stiff bristle brush while still letting water run over it, eventually they will fill.

If my assumptions about it not being filled all the way in the first place are wrong and it is getting washed away, once it becomes (grout) a mixture of dirt and what-have-you, it should do that much less.


In my part of the planet, corrugated asbestos looks like this

It is a light-grey, opaque, harder and much less flexible than corrugated fibreglass (glass reinforced plastic).

What you have looks to me much more like corrugated fibreglass panels.


As long as the mortar is not loose or crumbling, it will be fine to pressure wash.

If it is loose and the face of the mortar gets washed out, you might consider re-pointing after the pressure washing.


What type of lag bolts should I use for a deck?

You may not use electro-galvanized bolts for ledger or joist-beam attachments.

See IRC 502.2.2.1. Hot dipped or stainless steel only.

Electro-plated is also not appropriate for contact with treated lumber.

It may be that the bolts you listed are hot-dipped, but usually those magic words are listed, due to the code requirements.


Where can I find replacement door knobs?

A quick trip to Home Depot or Loewes will find you a selection of similar door knobs with locks that should fit into exactly the same fitting.

You'll find either the ones that lock when you're inside, just pressing the button, or ones that take a key in the centre of the handle.

It should be a simple matter of unscrewing and removing both handles, and sliding the new handles in place through the existing bolt mechanism.

I've replaced a bunch of door handles that way, both locking and not.

Something like this: Locking door handle, and only $15.


How do I differentiate between ground and neutral in black-white-red wiring?

Can you trace the cable back to the service panel or to another outlet (if there is another one on that circuit) and do a visual inspection of the wires?

Failing that, you could temporarily wire in a GFCI, guessing at which wire should be neutral and which ground.  Plug in an appliance, turn it on, and if the GFCI trips, you got ground and neutral the wrong way around.


is the 24v transformer output ~27v normal?

It does sound like the valve and/or solenoid is bad. You measured 27 volts, but that's only about 10% above the specified value, which is pretty close for a random transformer. The voltage will likely sag as you approach the rated current draw from the transformer, but even if it doesn't that's pretty close.


Is is safe to only use a gfci with no ground wires downstream?

They are not grounded, though may be GFCI protected. If they are wired off the load side of the GFCI, then they are GFCI protected.  In which case they should be labeled with stickers that say "GFCI PROTECTED", and "NO EQUIPMENT GROUND ".


Can I reuse mounting holes into a stud for a shelf?

Assuming that the screws don't feel loose when you remove them due to inadequate length or pilot holes that are too large, you can reuse the holes. I've done just that a thousand times with everything from knickknack shelves to solid wood doors. The point of concern usually isn't the holes, but the screws. If they were barely adequate before, they'll be risky now.

Since you haven't told us anything about the shelf or the screws, I can't be more specific than that.


Yes they are speed control capacitors.

For clarification as another poster pointed out - one is for speed settings (4.5uf with resistors - aka RC network) the other 5uf is a run or start capacitor.
The link below is a package with 3 capacitors built in - note it does not have the RC network for the speed control but has your 5uf - 250Volt you can use for the start/run capacitor, it might work to replace both of your units - there are others that have these 3 capacitors with 5 wires as well making it easier to install.

Capacitor 4.5uf/5uf/6uf

other Ceiling Fan Capacitors


That pattern indicates that a blunt object hit it, something relatively soft and larger. A rock or other hard and small object would leave a clear indicator like the picture below, with a central point and circular lines. What larger and blunt object would hit a second level window? Probably a bird. I think that this is a bird strike in the middle of the glass

As an interesting side note, here's an eagle that flow through someone's window last month


Can a toilet on concrete slab be moved about 4 1/2 inches?

In the US, the typical toilet rough in size is 12", which I believe goes from the toilet bolts (center of the drain) to the studs (so subtract 1/2" for drywall). You can also find toilets made for 10" and 14" rough ins. But, to get more clearance, the easiest thing to do is swap out the style of toilet from an elongated bowl to a round bowl. If you're a man visiting the library, it means you have less space to hang free, but it gives you a lot more space to get around the bathroom.

To answer your first question, you can move the drain, but it involves taking a jackhammer to the concrete. Not a fun project if you don't like messes.


what substance should I use to refill a hole in wood?

I'd use epoxy putty. It gets very hard and sticks tenaciously to almost anything. It would be a good idea to dig out the hole a little to make it larger at the bottom so the hard plug of dried epoxy is too big to come out of the hole. If it is IKEA it is probably particle board under veneer and wont offer much strength for the glue to stick, the surface is friable. This is why you should enlarge the hole, to give the glue a better chance of staying in place. Pack the hole with the putty. wait for it to harden overnight. Drill a hole appropriately sized for the fastener and screw it back in gently. Good as its gonna get for fixing IKEA.


10/3 is FINE for the dryer. 12/2 for the washer.


What is the best way to secure a set of folding attic stairs?

If you are not opposed to replacing the ladder, they do make attic ladders with integrated locks (i.e. Fakro Insulated Wood Attic Stair Ladder.  It looks like you need a special "handle" mounted on a 3 foot pole to lock and unlock the latch.  I'm not sure if these locks can be accessed from the top, but it is at least worth looking at.

If you prefer to leave the door in place, you could attempt to retrofit a remote control deadbolt to the door.  Depending on the style of door and the way it is installed, this may or may not be possible.


If the chip is small home centers sell a product similar to touchup paint.I have only seen it in white though and it is for steel or cast iron tubs.


Why won't my bathroom light fixture work?

If you have a multi-meter and feel comfortable poking around, you can find out some preliminary info. Take off the face-plate for the switches and check the voltage between the two screws on the light switch. You should see nothing when it's on, and full voltage (120/230/etc) when it's off:

If you see no voltage all the time, then there's likely a power problem feeding the switch.
If you see full voltage all the time, then the switch is probably broken and can be easily replaced.
If you see no voltage (switch on) and full voltage (switch off), then it's probably the light fixture.


You got the right idea, but I'd opt for adding a double 2X? between the existing joists at either end of the bathroom span and fill in with an extra joist making your spacing 12 inches on center instead of 24. Add a couple of perpendicular stiffeners, and you will have a good stable base for your new 3/4" sub-flooring.  Tile needs a good solid base or your grout will crack every time.

The vapor barrier is not so important on the floor, however, if you are doing new walls, a properly installed vapor barrier is very important.  There are several methods of adding a vapor barrier, depending on what types of tile backer you plan to use.  Think of it as a system and get all the right layers on in the right order.


Do braided stainless steel hoses with surface corrosion require replacement?

It really depends on the type of corrosion, some may be more surface finish failure and the hose can last for many years if not a decade. I have seen rusty lines that have some of the strands breaking and the line was not leaking not yet, I would suggest once the outer braid starts failing it is time to replace the line.  the urgency would be based on several factors like is the line disturbed or bumped my wife has a buck she stores under the sink that bumps the line in that case it may need to be replaced sooner than one that is never touched.  The pressure is also a factor, if you have less than 60 psi I would not be as concerned compared to a home with 90 psi. The last is personal opinion, some want to replace for any reason others may wait for a drip and each opinion is probably based on past experience and disposable income.


Is it ok to run 14 gauge wire for lighting off of a chain of 12 gauge outlets on a 20 amp breaker?

Not only is it "technically not code", it is not to code and could be  dangerous. If you need a 20 amp breaker, then you have to change that wire to 12 AWG.  It might be easier to run a new 20 Amp circuit to the bar and change the lighting circuit to a 15 Amp breaker although 8 outlets is a lot for a 15 Amp breaker. This is the kind of stuff that can kill a sale in the future or be a reason to insurance companies to drop you.


labels U, V, and W. Which positive, negative and ground?

U, V, and W =/= positive, negative, and ground. It's not even line, neutral, and ground (which would be more likely in AC - there is no positive and negative in AC). Instead it's more like line, line, and line. They refer to three phases which have a potential voltage difference from phase to phase. You get your power by connecting the load between the phases. It sounds like you cannot run your motor unless you have a 3-phase power source.


How to repressurise a Baxi Duo Tec Combi 24 HE boiler

Looks the same as mine, and since I've ended up here with the same question, I thought I'd update with an answer.

Looking at the third photo it looks as though you have the filling loop permanently fitted (as I do), with the two end caps hanging down. On the videos I've seen on Youtube and the Baxi website the taps are black and round, but yours is the same as mine with the two blue lever style ones, so...

From what I've read you need to turn the boiler off, so I did, then open the blue tap on the left fully. Then slowly open the blue tap on the right and watch the pressure gauge. You should get into the green section, around 1 to 1.5 bar. Then close the right tap first and the left tap second.

I'll finish off by stating that I'm not a plumber, but this is what I did and it worked for me.


The humming is the drain pump, not the motor.

You probably have an electrical problem - some wire someplace is broken (probably a wire going to the motor, perhaps a sense wire, or for high speed power). I had this happen to me and diagnosis said to replace the main control board for $$$.

But before doing that I checked it closely and found a cracked solder join (i.e. one wire was not making a good connect). I reflowed the solder and all was well.

But I did this myself - and it took a long time. For you to pay someone to check this for you will probably cost more than just getting someone who does this for a living to just diagnose and fix it.

Unless you are really good friends with someone handy? Usually if you take apart the machine it will have documentation telling you how to diagnose it.

First thing to do after following the instructions on the documentation is carefully check each wire going to the motor, and check the board where the wire goes for a loose connection.


Can't find 1-inch to 1.25-inch flexible coupling

Call an appliance parts supplier with the model # of the dishwasher, they probably stock the drain hose although they may provide both sections, drain pump to discharge, discharge to waste line (garbage disposal). You should be able to buy what you need there.


What is a proper size air conditioner for Texas 384 sq ft?

I would think that 12 kBTU/h would be fine even in north Texas. One interesting feature of window units is that the chilled condensed water from inside is used to cool the bottom coil of the condenser before the condensate is conducted out to the ground. (At least this was the arrangement in the early 1970s when we had a window unit in north Florida.) Central units just dump the 40 deg F condensate to a drain and so waste the cooling capacity of this chilled water.

If there is a separate bedroom, you might consider a mini-split ductless with one condenser unit supplying two air handlers. This would cost a lot more, and require professional installation, but would almost certainly use less power and cool better. They are advertised as employing "inverter technology"; some of these minisplits have a claimed SEER of 20 to 30 and they are available as heat pumps which would heat the cabin in winter. But personally given the price difference I would first try the window unit.

If you put in a window unit, you could cut a hole in a wall rather than use a window and there are even "window type" units (I think called slide-in) which are designed for this type of installation. Some window units can't be installed in a hole in a wall because the wall is so thick that it would cover the intake vents for the exterior part of the unit.


How to repair a built in hole in concrete front steps

Remove (bust out) the glass block, install permanent support underneath (plywood patch supported either by blocking between joists, or fastened directly to the underside of the slab with concrete screws), notch the edges 1.5" wide by 1.5" deep, pour a cement mix patch with standard aggregate, make sure you get out air bubbles as you go (no voids), finish as you please... you might look at a product line called Top-Cast for matching the aging on the existing, as far as that tan sanded concrete coating goes, maybe it's Rollerrock?... Hopefully you have a leftover can that the sellers left you.
You might should embed a tight grid wire mesh in there in the top 1.5 inch portion to help with any deflection.
If you do what others have commented, where you just fill the existing block with concrete, that will chip out. Concrete needs a minimum 1.5" thickness or it with break apart.
Also, it is essential to prevent any exposure to the elements with a cold joint. Water will penetrate and both leak into living space and freeze and break the concrete apart. If this is the case, you may want to pour the concrete with a removable 1/2" band between old and new to later fill with self-leveling waterproofing concrete sealant. You would use something like polystyrene (xps or eps) foam board that won't damage the concrete edges when you remove it.


What type of shelving should I use in my basement?

The best rugged shelving that I've used in the basement and garage is called "rivet lock" shelving. This type is quite sturdy, has adjustable shelves and can be easily disassembled and moved.

When you go to search out this type make sure to get genuine rivet lock shelving. There are cheaper shelves that try to imitate the rivet lock type but are flimsy and prone to bending and damage if trying to disassemble/reassemble.

Here are a few pictures of some rivet lock shelving in my garage showing some of its features. In this first picture see how I added 3/8" plywood sides to the shelf by bolting it onto the side rails.

This next picture you can see how the shelf units are placed side by side (and in my case bolted together) to make up a bigger storage area. In this case the shelves for a U shaped space for tool storage. I have even placed a "floor" over the top to permit storage of other items overhead below the ceiling. The bottom side of the "floor" has a pair of small florescent lights to light the area.

This picture shows a closeup of the rivets and how the cross members slide into the side rails.

You can get this shelving at various home DIY stores. Once again be aware that it will be varying grades at different price points. I always get the product that has two rivets on each cross member. It is much stronger and sturdier.

(The shelving you see in the pictures has been moved across the country and reassembled several times. Note that the particle board shelf inserts come with the shelf kits).


How to address minor mold problem in paint prep

There are various mold-inhibiting primers such as Kilz and Zinsser (links shown only as examples).

If there is still visible stain, wash with dilute bleach and let dry.
Apply the mold-inhibiting primer appropriate for your paint type (oil, latex, etc.).
Paint with with your choice of material.


Why are 3-way center-off wall switched so rare / expensive?

Simply lay two common switches right next to each other.  One is SPST and turns the whole caboodle on and off.  The other is a plain 3-way which selects between "always" or "thermostatic" - common goes to the switched-hot off the SPST, one traveler goes straight to the fan, and the other traveler feeds the thermostat.

You'll need /3 cable between the switches and thermostat, or between switches and fan if the thermostat is on a spur.

If you only have a 1-gang space, you can get dual 3-way switches -- you bridge both commons to each other.  On the top switch, one of the "on/off" travelers is disused and the other goes to supply.

The other option is to do the thermostat wiring in 24V low voltage, then you can use any switch you please.

Of course, if your AHJ (local inspector) approves switching mains power with an electronics-tier switch which lacks a UL listing or has a ЯU electronic component listing, then you can use it. NEC 110.2.


Keep a small supply of water flowing over the area you are cutting. Yes it will be messy, yes you will need to be mindful where your cord is, but it can be done. When that proved too difficult to keep a cut wet and I had a bit that could be run dry, I set a box fan inches away from the cutting to immediately blow away the dust from me and my machine.

Of course the tile will be much smaller, but the idea is the same, set up a work space, have it close,


What is this strange valve/trap from my boiler to condensate pump?

Actually, that cast iron piece is called an "air gap" which is used so contaminated water of a sewer pipe or drain  will never be drawn up that discharge pipe to contaminate anything above. This is usually how  water cooler is drained so the discharge of water to the drain or sewer discharge pipe could never cause a negative pressure on the drain and pull water up onto the water cooler surface. Google the words "air gap"


Pocket door that doesn't require much overhead space

Go to a real door supplier and see what they can offer.

You'll be removing any top framing from the pocket door kit and bolting the track directly to your opening (which will take a little bit of thinking, but that's the fun of this kind of project, right?), so that'll change the height. Even if it didn't, a 76" door isn't that terrible. (It's only a touch lower than typical.)


Why does my fan switch sometimes turn the lights off?

Your wiring looks okay (except for the redundant "power to dimmer" and "power to fan" wires -- as I commented, you don't need the extra pigtails, just connect the switches directly with one marette).

I can think of 3 possibilities:

The z-wave dimmer is not operating properly with the CFL. Try using a regular incandescent or halogen bulb, and see if the problem goes away.
The z-wave dimmer is being affected by the electrical/RF noise that the fan generates when it turns on. Ensure the fan switch is designed to handle inductive loads, or try replacing it with another brand of switch.
The z-wave dimmer is defective.


How do I remove these escutcheons from my door?

All GU hardware I have installed, the plate is a pressure fit in place, the notches you see are for removal. The thumbturn in many cases, but maybe not this one, has been in the past, a one piece unit with the cylinder. The torx head screw on the edge is about 3" long and is threaded into the cylinder, usually.

The picture with its angle does not show the bottom half of what may be the cylinder that the thumbturn is a part of. A picture of the outside of the door may reveal the key slot, so I would assume.  Never the less, if it is put together like all the others I have worked on, removing the torx (star)screw will allow the cylinder to be removed from the thumbturn side and after the handles are removed the escutcheon can be gently pried off by working the top a little, then the bottom, and so on until it comes free.

If you have a putty knife to hold at the top edge while the screwdriver is rotating to start prying the cover plate off, it will prevent any damage to the nice finish you have on the door. o the same with the bottom slot too.


How do I remove a submersible pump from a 11000 LTR (LARGE) concrete underground rainwater tank to replace it?

If the pump is a 3-wire submersible with a control box, you can do some basic troubleshooting with an ohm meter without pulling it. If you have a control box like this:

Then you can pull the top off. Inside there are terminals that have black, yellow and red wires that go to the pump. Inside the cover of the control box, it will tell you the resistance ratings (in ohms) between each of the colors, which you can check with any standard multimeter. If those readings are off, then the pump needs to be replaced. If they are OK, the next thing to check is the current draw. You need a multimeter with a current clamp on it, like this:

and you need to be able to clamp around one of the wires while the control box cover is on. The red wire is the starter wire, so it should have a high current then go down. The others should draw whatever the control box says is the normal current draw for the motor. You can measure either the wires going to the pump, or coming from the panel.

If the current draw is very high before it shuts off, the pump is probably jammed. You'll need to pull it and possibly take it apart to fix it.

If there is no or very low draw (and the ohm readings are ok), the control box is probably bad, and you can just replace it without pulling the pump.

I used to work for a company that did that kind of work. Anytime we installed a pump in a cistern like that, we would use a pitless adapter to attach it to the incoming pipe. They're normally used in drilled wells to be able to pull the pump.

If you are lucky, then yours has one too, and all you need to do is screw a threaded pipe into the top of the adapter to be the pull bar (typically 1 1/4"), and then pull it straight up and out. Because you are not using clean potable water, and especially if it hasn't been pulled in a long time, it may require some "gentle" persuasion to get it out. Wiggling and/or using a T-shaped bar (which you can hammer from the bottom) usually does the trick.

Before you put it back you should check the o-ring, and lubricate or replace if necessary. It's not really as important in a cistern as it is in a well, since if it leaks the water just goes back into the cistern, and the pump doesn't have that far to push water anyways, but it's just good practice.

I have run across cisterns where this wasn't the case though. If the pipes come in through the top, you may just be able to pull them and pull the pump out. If not, you may be able to cut the pipe, and then pull the pump from there.

If those methods fail, or if the pipe enters the cistern at the bottom, then the only way to get at it would be as @longneck says and drain the whole thing, then crawl in and get the pump out.

If you do have to drain it, it's a good oppertunity to clean it as well. There is likely a lot of sediment built up on the bottom that you can get out with a shopvac. Spraying it down with a pressure washer probably won't hurt either.

I would highly recommend that before you put the pump back in, you install a pitless adapter.


Make sure the power is off, then cut the plug off and use wire nuts or your country's preferred type of splice. Junctions inside an appliance do not require additional boxes. Since both wires on the fan are black the motor must be isolated so a good frame connection would be my recommendation for a ground unless the frame is plastic then it won’t matter.
There are small 1/8” spade or male disconnects that could be crimped onto the fan wires but there is a chance these could fall out and any male plug will require a splice so I would remove the plug and splice for a good connection.


What could cause kerosene-like odor from a gas oven/range?

What is happening is called product of combustion. Somewhere around in the house or near the house someone used or opened some sort of stain, paint, varnish or comparable compound including cleaners. The molecules carry over and get mixed in with air and then burned off from open flame. If you light a candle or a lighter you will smell the same odor, although not quite as strong- the bigger the flame the stronger the odor. The odor will dissipate over the next few days until there are no more molecules from the source left in the air.


Is sheathing required under a hybrid concrete tile roof?

Its odd looking, but the batten support lets the tiles 'notch' into place.  You'll see the same support for clay tiles, also.

Because of the 'hanging' aspect of the tile, most locales only allow tile roofs for pitches between 4/12 and 6/12 (rise over run).  Lower pitches are possible, but then waterproof membranes are required.  In those cases, sheathing support for the membrane would be needed.

You don't mention it, but not using  sheathing is usually only done in warmer climates, where summer heat is the main problem.


Is there a wireless way to cut off the HVAC y wire from my generator transfer switch?

While such a thing as a wireless relay exists, it's mighty expensive compared to the simpler option, which'd be to run thermostat wire over to the transfer switch to carry the Y and switched-Y wires there, and use the existing relay contacts on the transfer switch control board.


I think I have a few solutions. One, I could use graphite packing string on the stem threads. Two, I could use teflon tape on the stem threads. Or three, I could use plumber's grease on the stem threads.

None of those proposed solutions will work because the problem has nothing to do with the "stem threads". Your problem lies with the missing packing. The valve design incorporates what is called a packing gland, which includes a packing nut, a stuffing box, and packing material.

The stuffing box is where packing material (in your case probably a washer) is supposed to be. The packing nut screws down onto the packing, causing it to squeeze around the stem, which prevents the water from passing through.

You should take the valve stem to a good plumbing shop, where they will have a wide selection of various size packing washers to choose from. If none are exactly the right size, it is very common to trim down a larger packing washer with a knife, to make it fit. It is also very common to use packing string (you mentioned it in your post) in lieu of, or in combination with, a packing washer.

This pic illustrates the theory but instead of a packing yoke with bolts, your valve uses a packing nut:


Inside panel circuit also powered by outside panel?

Phantom/induced current. With the wires disconnected on both ends, they get an induced current from nearby wires. With the wires connected to the panel, the neutral (white) is pulled to ground, and I suspect that helps keep the hot wire "less hot". Either way, the current you are seeing is likely extremely low. Instead of a non-contact tester (which is always a good safety check), use a multimeter directly on the wires and I expect you will not see any real voltage.


How can I add a programmable timer to a circuit breaker so that I can force specific circuits on/off at specific times?

Timer-controlled or remote-controlled circuit breakers are available, but I've never seen them in a residential application. In addition to the breaker, you would also need a controller, which is likely cost prohibitive.

What would probably be cheaper is a standard hardwired electrical timer. If you mount it to the side of the breaker panel with a tiny piece of conduit you can probably just disconnect the wire from the breaker and run it to the timer without having to extend it. Then just run a new neutral and ground in to the timer and a new hot wire from the breaker to the timer.

This is not much more work than replacing a breaker.


HardieBacker on the studs, no drywall. In this zone the tile will hold better and last longer. Outside the damp or wet area, I change to green or blue board - a water-resistant type of sheetrock that I use in bathrooms. I will use HardieBacker for the width of the sink to the next stud, or in a tub / shower area, then green or blue water resistant sheetrock.

I have seen water-resistant sheetrock hold up for 30 years and even regular sheetrock for 20 or close with well-sealed tile. I have never had a quality cement board fail or need repair so this is the best in my opinion.


How should I repair mounting holes drilled into pvc window frames?

White silicon may work to plug the holes but if you use it make sure to get the surface finish the way you want it before the stuff dries. It is not a material that will sand very well after the fact.

You may also want to try a bathroom tub and sink sealer product. These products bridge gaps fairly well and dry staying a nice white color. The product that I have used for sinks and tubs is the one pictured below.

Also be aware of several things. If screws had been applied into the PVC window frame the screw threads probably made a portion of the PVC surface stick out at the hole edge. This may need to be trimmed carefully so that your patched holes will be flat. If the window frame was made only of PVC with no internal wood structure the only thing the patch material will be adhering to is the edges of the hole. This will mean that the patch could pop in or out of someone were to be poking at it.


Electrical Outlet - Red and black wire to L1 T1

L is for line or supply. T is for load. Basically L is power in and T is power out.

If you are trying to find which wire is coming from the panel, yes the power must be on. The one from the panel will show voltage. Which I assume will be the one marked with red tape.


Issues with 4 Prong to 3 Prong Conversion

Functionally what you do is get a jumper to connect the ground to the neutral since the outlet for 3 prong doesn't have its own ground.  Take a look at Harper's answer here


In my analysis your design is not going to be adequate. Here are the main points:

Box steel with just 3mm thick walls can deform when squeezed under bolting pressure or when subjected to torsional pressure when bolted through the box.
Carriage bolts with the square tang under the head are meant to be used with wood. Unless you intend use dozens of hours filing round holes to square the carriage bolts are not suitable. If you used a hack to make the round hole big enough diameter to accommodate the square tang then you have lost the precise alignment that you mention in your question.
For a bolted construction I see a severe shortage of triangulation designed into structure to keep it square.
The cantilevered cross members should have some type of edge interconnection to define the outer perimeter of the frame. The need for this would become much more obvious as you address building the next levels of the box trailer.

With the time and materials that you would spend building this you would be better off just considering purchasing an electric arc welder and doing some practice welding on scraps of steel to brush up your technique to weld this frame construction yourself.


Will I encounter problems after applying interior paint over exterior?

It's unlikely that you'll encounter problems, but it depends on the specific products, of course. Exterior paint isn't exactly rubbery. I'd do it. If the manufacturer or retailer advise against it, use a sealing primer in between.


Why would a blower motor work with A/C, but burn out with furnace?

Lots of dust and debris on the vents means your air filters pass dirt.  2" pleated MERV 7-8 are good if your system will handle thicker media.  1" pleated are OK but may be more restrictive.  In my region, specialty filter supply houses are the best place to purchase filters.  They will sell retail at a fair price, and if you need a nonstandard size they will make a custom fit for a small fee.

High heat causes motor insulation to fail prematurely.  If the motor windings are burning out frequently during heating season and not cooling season, the cause is probably that the high heat is worse during the heating season when the blower is delivering hot air.

I can think of four possible causes:

The blower capacitor is weak causing the motor to overheat (a good tech would usually replace both the motor and the capacitor after a motor failure).
The motor is undersized.  The HP and RPM of the motor must match the fan.  If someone replaced the blower motor with an incorrect unit on the first go-around, then new motors that size will continue failing.  Certain Goodman units have a blower that requires an uncommon lower RPM.  On this unit, the typical 1075 RPM 1/2 HP motor is not an acceptable replacement and will fail.  Checking the motor amperage against the nameplate would expose this problem.
The air temperature from the furnace is too hot.
The voltage supplied to the blower exceeds the motor nameplate rating by more than 10%.


Can you convert a stackable dryer 220 to a 110, and how?

No. A 220 V to 240 V clothes dryer cannot be modified to operate on 120 V only.

There are very small clothes dryers that operate on 110 V, but they are so small that it is clear that a standard 240 V clothes dryer requires much more power than could be supplied by a 120 V 20 A circuit. Magic Chef 2.6 Cu Ft clothes dryer


Concerned about the outcome of insulation fibers

No likely permanent danger, the effect is most likely limited to the acute irritation you are experiencing. Even if it contained some amount of a hazardous substance, a short term exposure is not likely to pose a long term health issue. Now if it happened to you every day during the course of your work, that would be a different story.


How long should a heat pump last before needing repairs?

According to the NAHB, the average lifespan of heat pumps in the US is about 16 years.

A Google search seems to reveal a wide range of opinions about Goodman heat pumps in particular.


Single Zone has Little Pressure, New Problem

If the sprinkler controller can cause that zone to start dribbling then the solenoid is fine. (Note that "solenoid" is just one part of a complete valve.)

Do an experiment to figure out whether you have a broken pipe or a malfunctioning valve. For example, turn on one working zone, then (at the same time) turn on another working zone. (You may have to operate the valves manually rather than using the timer/controller.) Notice how much the spray of the first zone drops when the second zone comes on. Turn off that second zone, and while the first continues to run, turn on the malfunctioning zone. Does the spray of the first zone drop again? If it does then water in your malfunctioning zone is going somewhere, but not out the heads -- you'll have to locate and repair a broken pipe. But if the spray level of the first zone does not drop, then the valve of the malfunctioning zone is not opening as it should.

If you conclude the valve is malfunctioning there's a chance it could be caused by debris (a grain of sand, a small weed seed, etc) lodged inside. This could happen even on a drinking water system, but it's less likely.

I suggest that you consider how you would go about replacing that valve, have the required supplies on hand, and then try carefully disassembling the existing valve. Start by fully unscrewing the solenoid, and if there's no debris found there, take off the top of the valve. After cleaning it out, reassemble and test.

If things go well the valve could work normally again. If things go badly.. you're already prepared to replace the valve, so go ahead and do that.


Is the Back of Kerdi Board the same as the front?

According to Schluter: http://www.schluter.com/7728.aspx

  Schluter-KERDI-BOARD is made of an extruded polystyrene foam core with reinforcement layers and fleece webbing on both sides for easy anchoring in thin-set mortar.

So yes!


Can I drill vertically through this from the main floor to the upstairs?

Yes, you can. It will not affect it structurally, given you are only drilling relatively small (3/4” or so) holes. You won’t want to drill a large plumbing line through it.


Yes, play with closing the flaps of however many it takes. It really depends on who, how & when the ducts were installed, balance is the aim but the only thing that does get balanced (maybe) is what's in use at the time the system goes active.

In my house, I have to keep 2 vents closed year round & then heating & cooling seasons have to have additional & different vents opened or closed for fairly uniform temperatures.

If things level out for you with just the thermostat vent shut, then leave it that way or you can possibly go to a new vent whose fins blow the air to either side & never at the thermostat. Also, you might be able to move the thermostat out of the hallway altogether.


Is it possible to install an occupancy sensor switch to control 3 light fixtures?

The wiring diagram in the manufacturer's documentation is quite simple.

The lines labeled "Hot/Live" and "Neutral", is the feed from the breaker. The "Load" is the light you're trying to control.  To expand it for three lights, you'd wire it like this...

Notice that the wiring in the switch box does not change. You simply add on additional loads (lights) to the circuit.

NOTES:

For an occupancy sensor to work, it has to "see" your movement. Which means it will have to be positioned so that it can always "see" you, no matter where you are in the bathroom. This might require a clear, or translucent shower curtain.
The switch cannot be mounted within the shower/tub area, or anywhere it might get sprayed, splashed, or wet by any means.


What is the proper way to insulate box sill joists in the basement?

The Family Handyman recommends using rigid foam, caulk, and spray foam to insulate the rim joist, in this article Insulate Basement Rim Joists.

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking to do, but the idea should work in your situation I think.
Summary of steps:

Cut rigid foam to fit between joists.

Insert foam into gaps (against rim joist).

Caulk around the edge of the foam.

Fill any gaps in the rigid foam where pipes or vents pass through, with spray foam.


What's the best way to fix this horrible drywall patch job?

It's very difficult for a beginner to mud in the vicinity of recepticals and switches. My advice is to cut well around the switches and then tape and mud the three joints. It would require removal of the door moulding but when your done you'll find it was very easy.

This gives you all the room you need to apply your mud with a full size blade, making it much easier to blend the mound in.
There is no such thing as a flat wall every joint in the house is raised a little bit. The trick is to make it so gradual that it is imperceptible.
Make sure you cut an approximately 45° bevel in all your butt joints with a sharp knife. Set your tape in the vertical joint. Let it dry. Set your tape on your horizontal joint without overlapping. Let it dry. Sand. 1st coat vertical, dry. Sand 1st coat horizontals, let dry sand. Repeat 3 coats after you set the tape.
You should try to finish each coat as if you don't have sandpaper.


The broken cap would not generally result in liquid spilling to the ground and saturating/softening the surrounding earth unless there had been a stoppage/blockage and the entire line backed up.

If you have not had a blockage, consider whether the soft ground could just be the result of the recent excavation required for the install. After the line was installed in the trench, the builder would normally back-fill it with the same dirt that was removed but perhaps did not compact it enough.

If you need to reassure yourself that the line has not been compromised, the easiest and quickest solution would be to just hire a plumber with a drain inspection camera.


Can I use regular 5/8" thick drywall in a 1/2 bath (powder room)?

Yes you can use the 5/8" drywall, plus you will get the added benefit of better sound barrier and fire rating.


Attaching a towel hook to a glass shower door

You could use over door hooks, such as this, on the bathroom door.

Google suction cup hooks for hooks that attach to glass.

Supermagnet hooks are also available. You could attach a decorative metal plate to the bathroom door for them. Or use a supermagnet hook on one side of the glass door and an non-hook supermagent on the other side

EDIT:
Here is a link about attaching metal to glass.
What type of adhesive do I use to bond metal & glass?

The accepted answer recommended epoxy.


drilled a 6 mm hole in the masonry, then used brown wall plugs and #8 screws

Your hole was too small and the screw was the wrong size or type. A #8 screw has a 4mm diameter.

  Brown wall plugs fit into a hole made by a 7mm drill bit and are for screw sizes 10 - 14

Plug            Hole            Screw
Colour          Size            Size
------          ----            -----
Yellow          5mm             4 - 8
Red             6mm             6 - 10
Brown           7mm             10 - 14
Blue           10mm             14 - 18

Note: the above screw sizes are traditional size or screw-gauge. If you drill metric holes, you might be buying metric screws, where the size is the major diameter of the threaded part in mm.

If you can't drive the screw using a normal hand-held screwdriver, then something is wrong and you are at risk of shearing the screw or damaging the head. Using more force is not the right answer.


Can I use a drain auger on a toilet clog?

The toilet auger is designed to protect the visible finish at the bottom of your toilet where a drain auger could leave scratch marks. It's also possible for a drain auger to get twisted inside of the large diameter of the toilet drain. Given the issues with the drain auger, I'd recommend going back and getting one designed for the toilet.


How to get rid of echo inside the apartment?

Probably as a result of opening the wall to repair the plumbing, the wall facing was rebuilt.

You might try texturing the wall and repainting it with a non-glossy paint.  Just matching the other walls should be good enough.

Also, if you have not yet returned all wall coverings, tapestries, paintings, and furniture to that wall or carpet to the floor, the room will sound much "brighter".


Soffit vents and rafter baffles in finished attic

Those baffles can't "do their thing" if you close one end. You need a complete ventilation circuit between the soffit and the ridge to prevent extreme temperatures on your roof deck and heat migrating into your living space, followed by ice dams in winter.
You need to maintain ventilation against the roof sheathing the entire way up, otherwise you'll build what's known as a "hot roof". That has significant drawbacks and implications for energy efficiency and moisture management. Here's what it'll look like:

source
Be sure you have a good understanding of why this is important and how to accomplish it before you proceed.


Where can I find a 90-degree elbow to connect to my ice maker water line?

everyone just calm down.  you guys are looking for an arrow industries 05-57L-4-4

http://arrowindustries.com/content/catalog/2015/Arrow%20web%20catalog%20sec%20g.pdf


How can I use a 12VDC bilge pump with an Intermatic timer for pond circulation?

A couple things could be going on, as @bib and @BMitch allude:

Your transformer could be putting out AC 12V instead of DC 12V. (Sometimes these are labeled VAC and VDC, respectively.)
Your transformer may not be able to supply enough current to power the pump. The pump and transformer should both have their current listed (in the case of the transformer it will be a max current). If the pump is trying to draw more than the transformer can supply, both will be unhappy.
Your pump could be sensitive to polarity and you've got the two wires crossed. I think most DC motors should work forwards and backwards, but of course the pump will only function properly one direction.
If the transformer is cheap it may be putting out "noisy" DC power which the pump isn't liking. A car battery puts out pure DC power but the transformer needs to rectify and filter your household AC power, and some transformers are better than others.


How to deal with paint peel on normal wall

You need to figure out why the paint is peeling, address the problem, and then re-paint.

In many houses, the chances are that the paint was not properly applied - the wall was dirty or damp.

The first step is to remove the peeling paint.  If you're lucky, it's just one wall or a small patch - otherwise, you'll have to do the entire wall or room.  Start by scraping off as much loose material as possible, and then sand around the scraped areas.  Make sure that there aren't any places where the paint hasn't adhered, but hasn't started to flake yet.

Next, apply a coat of primer/sealer.  You may find at this point that the first coat loosens the existing paint - you'll need to decide whether to go back and remove more depending on how bad it is.

Finally, after the primer has dried, repaint.


Do not drill.  I did, big mistake.  Did not drill deep, and drilling  was not the demise of the fridge.  I used short sheet metal screws. First two went ok. The third offset screw punctured a line.  Had the Company  not insisted it be done Right  Now, I would research  alternative applications.   Marine lock made by 3-M company,  sells adhesive  pads with cable  to padlock  door shut. Reviews  we're all good. Just look  up marine lock for fridge.  NO HAPPY DRILLING  HERE !


Why my bedroom lights are on when a light in another room is turned on

It sounds like you may have not set up your lights properly through your app?
In pictures this is the sequence to follow. I would also make sure your serials are inputted properly and not reacting off other light settings, since Hue bulbs can receive signals from other bulbs (rather than just your Hue Bridge),


What type of screens do I need for this crank case window?

The screen will sit where the blue lines are, up against that small lip (sorry bout the poor drawing skills). It will be held in by flush mount clips like shown below. You will need to drill small pilot holes for the clip screws.

You can have the screens built to your custom size at a good hardware store or home center. Do not get the cheap screens with the lame plastic corner pieces, get good heavy gauge mitered aluminum frames.


2 HOT wires together from the same breaker source

You could be seeing a false indication from the NCVT. It happens. Re-check with a volt meter, or try powering the light fixture from just one cable and then from just the other cable. If you find that this light, and perhaps others too, remains off when it's connected to a particular cable that's a good sign that the cable isn't truly powered.


get a cheep volt meter and see if ground to neutral is 0 ground to hot is 115-120 and if hot to neutral is 115-120 if ground does not match neutral or there is voltage between ground and neutral there is a problem. I have a outlet that gets 50v between neutral and ground but the other 2 are normal. the electrician who put that in there some how managed to also flip the hot and neutral in the walls so that both breaker side and wall side look like they are wired properly but are reversed.  a cheep volt meter is 15-40$.  the battery units are pretty decent at telling you there is some kind of problem but not what it is.  duno about surge bars though.


Gypsum (drywall) panels get most of their strength from the paper face that wraps them. Generally speaking, if this is intact the sheet maintains its integrity. Without the paper, the gypsum inside is soft and brittle.

However, severe bending cracks the gypsum core at frequent intervals. This reduces overall stiffness in the sheet, which can mean a wall or ceiling that feels less stout. Occasional cracks in the core don't mean much if they're not closer than the distance between framing members, for example.

Any sheet that has been bent beyond about 45 degrees over say half its length could be considered compromised. Any sheet that's been bent 90 degrees, or that has been bent to a lesser angle but sharply, shouldn't be used, in my opinion, or should be used in less critical areas.

I'd raise the issue with your contractor and have a closer look. The lumber yard should take responsibility for any damaged product.


A 15A breaker (AFCI) is not just permissible in this situation, it is required because of the #14 wire in the circuit. You should make a note somewhere near the panel indicating that circuit has #14 wire in it and to not replace the 15A breaker with a 20A. Alternatively - and this is the much preferred way to do things - just use #12 throughout and put a 20A breaker on.

However, if at all possible, keep your receptacles and lights on different circuits. If you trip a breaker you won't be left in the dark!


What size hole do I need in masonry for an anchor that takes a 1/2" thread?

Those hangars are designed to go into wood, but you should be able to install into concrete using lag shields, just as you would use with a lag bolt. My only concern is that lag bolts have a standards and ratings, where this ladder hangar might be of unknown strength, and could simply shear off in the lag shield. I wouldn't park my car next to or beneath it.

The lag shield has a specified hole size required, which should be documented, such as this one.


That probably happened in the 1950s, not long after the house was built, especially if you have wood lath and not gypsum panels. The corners of the cutout for the vent create weakness, and normal seasonal house movement results in cracks.

Rub some painter's caulk in there before you paint. Doing more than than will probably just make it look worse unless you completely redo the drywall. It's one of the traits of older homes.


I would chip away everything that is crumbling and patch it. Make sure that you get all the cracks knocked out and patch out from there.

Chances are that the patch won't match the surrounding cement but if you think about it, you'll spend maybe $20 in patch materials (more if you need the trowel tools) and if it fails after a year you are out $20 and no harm done. If it holds, great, but at least you have a year (or more) to save for a larger fix in the future.

As far as leaving the rebar there or removing it, you should be able to leave it there with the proper patch cement. They usually have bonding chemicals in the cement and can bond to the rebar without using a chemical bonding agent. You may need to make a form for the underside or just mix the cement a little dry. Forms can easily be made from foam insulation (the pink sheets) available at any hardware store.

One more thing, when you patch, don't fill the expansion joints with cement, use duct-tape or weather stripping to keep the cement out of the expansion joint.


How much wooded land should be cleared around a new home site?

In California, if you build in the "wildland interface", wildfire risk drives the clearance requirement of 100'. The following quote is from the CalFire web page:

  Protecting a building from wildfire takes a two-pronged approach: Remove flammable materials from around the building;
  Construct the building of fire resistant material.
  The law requires that homeowners do fuel modification to 100 feet (or the property line) around their buildings to create a defensible space for firefighters and to protect their homes from wildfires.


This might be the furnace emergency shut-off switch. That switch plate should look like the illustration below, and be mounted much higher on the wall than a regular light switch.

Check with the condo management... It would likely be a fire code violation to remove it, in that case!

However, it might be a "vacation" switch, which could be removed... But again, check with the condo management, since they surely have rules about what is allowed.


Is it possible for a sump pump pail to be too deep?

NOTE: While I agree that NORMALLY the depth of the sump pit itself is not a factor it IS a part of the "lift" for the pump.  This specific question is about an unusually deep sump pit.  So it would be foolish to just say, "it doesn't matter how deep the pit is" because it DOES matter, in this case at least!

Yes, there is a limit on how high a particular sump pump can raise the water up a pipe.  It's called the "head" and the problem is that the closer you get to the head limit, the lower the pumping capacity of the pump is.

Here is a link to the Wayne company site, which is a major pump maker:

Wayne Pumps Data

If you have the manual for your pump (probably too much to ask for) you will probably find the spec in there.  If you know its make/model, it could probably be looked up.

But the key thing is that the TOTAL height from the bottom of the sump pit to the highest point in the outlet pipe must be less than the head specification.  Most home-use sump pumps have a head of at least 10'.


Power 240 v ac light from two power sources

If I've understood correctly, you want the existing lighting to turn either when the pull switch is activated or when the door opener is activated.

To accomplish this use a relay. The relay's coil would be powered by the door opener and the relay's switch terminals would connect to the terminals of the existing switch. In this way the light will be powered from its existing source whenever the pull switch or the relay (or both) are activated. The relay protects against a variety of bad results that could occur if the door opener output had been connected directly to the pull switch or lighting.

You'll have to choose a relay with appropriate voltage and current specs, and consider local requirements and customs to choose a junction box to contain the relay and wiring. I'd suggest that the relay should be located as near to the pull switch as possible.


Can 2300 watt washing machine burn out wiring in my house?

Your socket and wiring (if properly installed/rated) are good for 3,680 Watts (230V X 16A.) As such a 2300W device should be perfectly fine.
However:
If a 1500W device "burned out the wires" on a 15A 230V (3,450W) socket, either the wiring in question was improper/defective, or there were other things also connected to those wires. In any case, somehting was wrong if the wires burned out rather than a circuit breaker (or fuse) tripping (or blowing.)
So your wiring installation may be improper or defective - it is at least suspect, and should be checked by a qualified electrician to identify and correct any dangerous deficiencies.


Can I use more sand topping mortar to level the slope of a shower pan?

is adding mortar going to work?

Yes, if you do it correctly. Rough up the existing surface where you intend to build up the pan height, then moisten well prior to adding some dry-pack to level off the area. I would probably use a "wetter" dry-pack mix for this (as compared to the "drier" dry-pack mix I used to originally create the bed). We often do some "tune-up" to the bed by shaving, scraping, moistening and patching, etc. even days later.

I would not use thinset mortar to build up the bed due to the thickness involved (3/4"). Not to say it wouldn't work though; and no I would not use that to set tile, you would trowel it smooth and level then let it cure. Then set tile as per normal with notched trowel.


What equipment/material/knowledge is needed to visually fix a garage ramp

I'd start by pressure washing the ramp with a light degreaser/driveway cleaner to see what defects remained. Some of the colorization seems to be surface stains. Then, you could epoxy-paint or stain it to at least get a uniform look, though that wont help if there are large cracks, voids or holes.  Problem with any coating is that you will be driving on it, so it will be hard to maintain the "clean" uniform look (tire marks) compared to the walking ramp on the right picture.


What can cause a Garbage Disposal to trip the breaker besides blockage?

Well, I have to admit I am not a Garbage Disposal Expert, but if the key turns freely and it is tripping the breaker, then I would think it is time to go shopping.

Is it easy to install? That's pretty subjective and depends on your skills. But, in general, they are not difficult for someone who is use to doing DIY stuff around the house, especially if you are replacing it with the same or very similar model. Find a brand that you are interested in (In-Sink-Erator is pretty common, but by no means the only one), then go out to their web site and download the instructions and evaluate it for yourself.

One word of caution if you try to do it yourself. Do you have a dishwasher? If so, you will see a hose from the dishwasher going into the side of the disposal. On a new disposal the assumption is you don't have a dishwasher and this tube is sealed! If have a dishwasher and you don't open it your dishwasher will back up. Also, after you knock out the seal, remember to remove it from the inside of the disposal since it is hard plastic.


How to cut wood panel for angled ceiling?

Here is how I have done it before without anything more than what I was already using, the material, pencil, a tape measure and a miter box.


How much pressure does it take to blow water out of a fire sprinkler in a 4-6 foot arc?

According to this Wikipedia article,

  a typical Early Suppression Fast Response (ESFR) sprinkler at a pressure of 50 psi (340 kPa) will discharge approximately 100 US gallons per minute (0.0063 m3/s)

With a magic 100% efficient motor and pump, that'd require almost 3 hp, so it's no surprise 1.5 hp didn't cut it for two sprinklers.


Ceiling fan switch diagrams

You can easily do it with three arduino activated relays; you might be able to do it with only two.

You'll need to figure out how the switch maps position to connections as it rotates, and replace all of those connections with relays.  Relatively easy, but somewhat time consuming.


How would you fix an inflection point on engineered hardwood?

Matt, your install looks good. Replace the board, should take a whole 20 mins takes us 5-7 mins. You might realize something small was under the wood. Worse case, you replace both and issue is gone. Remember to rip the bottom of the groove.


Will a drywall anchor work fine after it's already open or engaged?

It depends on the type of anchor and the length of the screw, but I think you may have another problem.

Most drywall anchors rely on the screw to expand the anchor and secure it into the drywall.  In these cases, if the screw is not into the anchor to an adequate depth, the anchor will not have sufficient purchase in the sheetrock.

With this said, however, if you are putting up a shelf that you plan to put any sort of weight on (books, etc.), sheetrock anchors are a very poor choice.  You would definitely want the majority of your anchors secured into a stud.

If you must anchor to the sheetrock, then you may want to consider butterfly anchors (toggle bolts) rather than the screw in surface anchors.  They will provide better support.


Can a connection be established from copper wire to stainless steel bus for power connection?

I think you are way over thinking this. Take your copper cable and crimp an appropriately sized copper ring terminal onto the end. Then drill and tap a threaded hole in the stainless steel bus bar that takes a screw of a size to fit nicely in the hole of the ring terminal. Simply screw the terminal to the bus bar and be done with the job.

Obviously it is up to you to select the proper sized copper cable, crimp terminal and screw that are rated for the amount of current that you want to transfer into or out of the bus bar.


It appears the danger-close part is the "wing" on the garage door track diagonal brace.

That wing is essential for strengths/stiffness.  But structurally, that brace doesn't care if the wing sticks out that way, or the other.   I would just flip it over/put it on the other side, so the wing sticks out the other way.


Patch holes in medium density fiberboard

I think there are two probable options here.

First off, the easiest solution may be  as 'Ed Beal' Suggests, and simply  move the bracket over a few inches and re-fasten.

The other solution, albeit not very "elegant" is often highly effective. Liberally coat a cut piece of wood just bigger than a toothpick, and just shorter than your hole is deep. Slide in the glued piece of wood, the insert and tighten down your screw.

The screw works to force and press the new wood into the hole and give the screw something to "bite" into. The friction and pressure of this new piece of wood is often enough to keep the fastener in place. The glue keeps it in long term.

It's not an excellent solution if you plan on repeatedly removing the fasteners, or you rely on the fasteners to be in tension often. In this case where you're just holding a bracket in place where the leg will be in compression, I think you can get away with it.


How do I channel a cable behind a skirting board when fitting a back box?

You would drill from below with a long bit. I assume you wall is typical studs with drywall or plaster. You should be able to get enough angle for the hole to come out in the wall. Do this before you insert the box. Then you can run your wire into the box before mounting it.


Hanging a wooden venetian blind in a square bay

TL;DR: You're over thinking this. The manufacturer has already made the calculations necessary and has determined that the brackets, screws and anchors (if provided, or purchased separately as specified in the instructions) are sufficient for holding up the blinds in any of the mounting situations specified in the instructions. If they hadn't, they'd be getting lots of returns and/or lawsuits (especially in America - we like our lawsuits...).
If you're mounting it outside the bounds of what's specified in the instructions, you're a bit on your own, but still don't have much to worry about as you'll see if you read on...

The manufacturer knows the weight of the blinds you purchased and the brackets for installing it should be sufficient in number (2 or 3 brackets -or more- depending on the width of the blind) and construction (plastic, thin metal, or heavier metal) to support the weight of the blind.
The use of the provided wall anchors (usually I've found they provide them) in the spacing specified in the instructions and the holes specified in the brackets (they usually have different holes for different installation situations) should be sufficient. If they don't provide anchors, pick some up at your local hardware store/home improvement center.
Drywall/plaster board anchors are really pretty darn sturdy and will support a fair amount of weight, but if you're really concerned about the provided anchors, go get some that are rated for higher weights. You will probably find anchors that are each rated to support the full weight of your blinds. When multiples are used (one for each appropriate hole in the multiple brackets necessary to mount the blind) you'll have far more holding power than you need.
Consider that if the larger blind weighs 40 pounds and requires 8 screws (4 in each of 2 brackets as I've commonly found), each screw/anchor combo only has to support five pounds. Sure, there's some extra weight from tugging it up and down, but you'd be hard pressed to find a drywall anchor only rated at a mere 5 pounds.


I have had these same valves get to the point where they quit working reliably so yours may be on it's way. However I would venture to guess that one of the following could contribute to intermittent failure.

The float on your particular valve may have been deformed slightly in its manufacturing process to that it is just a little out of ideal shape. This lead to the thing binding on the riser post if it was in just the right position.
There may be some molding seam flash on either the float or the post that leads to a binding problem with the float when it rises with the water fill.
Check to see if there is any possibility of mineral deposit build up in the working slide area of the float. This could lead to sticking or binding.
Make sure that the float is fully away from the sides of the tank so that it never has the opportunity to scrape on the tank side.
Check the upper valve lever arm hinge under the upper cover (turn water off before removing) and make sure it has nothing that could cause it to want to stay in the down position making to force the float to stay down.

RECOMMENDED COURSE OF ACTION

These valves are really pretty inexpensive and it only takes about 30 minutes to replace one [provided your shut off valve is functional :^) ] so I recommend that you just get a new one and swap out the intermittent one.


How long can a refrigerator be stored without being used?

Clean empty refrigerators should be stored upright and kept dry. You should prevent moisture building up inside the stored refrigerator - perhaps by removing the door or by keeping the door open.

The manufacturer's instruction booklet may have a section on storage.

Unused refrigerators are a potentially fatal hazard for children, who may get trapped inside. For this reason doors should be removed, locked closed or prevented from being closed (using a child-proof mechanism).


Steel basement columns have rusted and split open

A lot of variables... one of the most important is what load they are supporting and how badly are they rusted aside from the split. Unless you are in a position to accurately gauge their "importance" to the structure you really should consult a qualified contractor.  From the look of the photo there appears to be some buckling where the seam has split which seems very unusual to me and cause for concern.  The good news is that if everything else is OK, it's a pretty simple and inexpensive repair.


Extending joists to reach a new beam. What code to review?

Use beam sizing software. There are ones available for free.

All things can designed outside of the "code" which is what the "code" defaults too if it is not prescribed. We usually just have plans and beam calcs to match that all get approved by our building officials and are not "in" the code.

I am not an engineer and it is allowed in my jurisdiction. Other jurisdictions the beams must be calc'd by an engineer. Point is, you do not have to be confined to the prescribed "code" per se. You can "design" it


Switching off dimmable LED flashes then switches back on

This is the dimmer malfunctioning.  Simple as that.

This type of problem can usually be managed in one of two ways.

have one of the bulbs be incandescent
have a properly safety-listed "resistor block" (read: capacitor assembly) wired in parallel with the lamps.  This mimicks an incandescent bulb in the way we aim to accomplish above, and uses less power, and doesn't burn out.  In the States there's one I'm fond of recommending, made by Lutron and UL-listed, but it's not going to work in the land of square light switches. Consult your major dimmer vendors' catalogs if they make a similar module.

Make sure it is be BSI-listed, TUV, ETL, CSA, UL, one of the proper testing labs who is recognized in your country (an increasing number are, due to trade treaties). Chimazon will cheerfully sell you dangerous rubbish with a CE or CCC label.


What to do with the neutral in a 240V 2-pole hot tub disconnect?

You never switch the neutral, well, "never" is a strong word, sometimes some special generator installations switch the neutral, but almost never should you switch the neutral, just the 2 hots.  I like your idea of putting the GFCI inside to protect it.
To connect the neutral, there is usually a small bussbar you can land those on. If your new hot tub doesn't require a neutral, just cap it off in the disconnect.
Your idea about just passing the neutral thru the disconnect unbroken works too.
You got this!


Wiring a ceiling light fixture. Too many ceiling wires!

If it isn't labelled, and isn't color coded, you will need to use a meter and do a lot of experimentation with the switches and circuit breakers to figure out what's going on. This is somewhere between annoying, messy, and dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.

If you need to ask this question I STRONGLY recommend that you bring in someone more experienced to deal with this. You are not looking at a homeowner-friendly situation.


Thermostatic shower valve with tankless gas heaters

Other than scald prevention, which isn't much of a concern with 48°C water, the other "features" are being able to set a maximum temperature, and attempting to maintain temperature when the pressure on one side dips.

Since you say that you set the heater near your bathing temperature, then it sounds like those other features won't do much for you since you're using almost 100% hot water rather than a mixture of hot and cold.

I don't set my water heater much higher than yours, but I still like the ability to adjust the maximum temperature in my kids bathroom.  I have it set where it doesn't even get hot enough for me to take a good shower, but its perfect for their bath and can't get hotter than they would like.


How to fix a through hole in a concrete step?

This will be difficult to make it work well. Cement is not strong in tension at all, and what happens is when someone steps on the patch area, the bottom side of that patch will be under tension. It will then crack, and you know what happens. In fact, you have evidence of how it will look. So the best solution is simply to replace the steps.

Assuming that replacement is not an option, I'm just guessing what I would try, as I'm not a mason. Bringing in a professional is the best solution. But you can probably do it yourself.

You need to add rebar to the patch. See that the steps did have rebar in them. The hole appeared between the members. So, I would start with an angle grinder. Wear a GOOD mask for these first few steps, as a lot of dust will be generated, and this dust is terribly bad for your lungs.

With a wire wheel in the angle grinder, strip off the paint and crud on the edges of the hole as much as possible.
Next, an abrasive cutting wheel in the grinder will cut angled slots in the surface of the hole. (A diamond wheel will also work, as long as it does not hit rebar. Diamond wheels and iron are a bad combination, that can damage the diamond wheel. So I'd just use an abrasive wheel. They are cheap anyway.) The idea is to cut angled slots on each side of the hole, wide enough that you can fit a reinforcing member into it that will span the hole. You want that reinforcement near the bottom of the patch, not the top, since as I said above, it is only the bottom of the patch that will feel tension under a load.
I would also bevel the top edge of the hole a bit with the grinder. Give something for the patch to hold onto.
Rebar comes in standard sizes, the smallest stuff you can find seems to be 3/8 inch thick. For this application I would want thinner rebar, so the slots I need to cut will be easier to cut. As well, I want to get as much reinforcement into the patch as I can. So I might actually start with steel 1/4 inch bar stock, then grind ridges into it to give it some tooth. You can see what real rebar looks like here:

When you do lay the rebar grid into the slots you have ground, I'd next hang hardware cloth (essentially metal screen) perhaps 1/4 inch below the rebar with some wire. The idea is that otherwise, the cement in this patch will just fall though.
Get a high quality cement designed for patches. There are also bonding agents you can put into the cement to help it adhere to the edges of your hole. I'd also add fiber reinforcement (like tiny rebar) into the cement. You should be able to buy this where you buy the cement.
Mix up the cement and trowel it into place. Make sure it gets into all of the cracks and slots. Make sure there are no voids. Feather out the top edges so there are no tripping points, and there is no place for water to sit.
As a very last step, I might dust some sand onto the surface of the wet cement to give traction. You don't want a slippery spot on the step.

If you are not sure how to do this, go into a store that specializes in cement products and talk to the people there. They can help guide you to what you need.


What causes old wood smell, is it bad to ignore it, and how to clean it?

If you put your clothing in there as-is, the clothing and then you, when you wear them, will smell just as bad.

The smell comes from such furniture sitting closed up for long periods of time.  I've found that taking out all the drawers, opening all the doors, and exposing all of it to fresh air and, if possible, direct sunlight, will eliminate the smells in a relatively short period of time.

If it's more stubborn, you can try an "oil soap" type cleaning product.

If there were mold and mildew, you should be able to see that on the surfaces and if present, you'll want to clean that with an appropriate commercial cleaning product that acts on mold and mildew.


Moving my washer and dryer will mean I'll need to move my dryer exhaust vent. How should I go about this?

You want the shortest distance possible, and for everything except perhaps the dryer connection, you want to use rigid metal tubing rather than the flex tube. The rigid tubing will resist the airflow less and collect less lint. The better airflow from rigid tubing and shortest distance will make the dryer more efficient. If too much lint builds up in the vent, you have a fire hazard in addition to longer drying time.

I'd also suggest having the exhaust somewhere you can reach with a small step ladder to make it easier to clean the vent. So I'd run it down through the floor rather than up through the ceiling, if possible.

Finally, when you install the vent opening in the side of your home, make sure it's weather tight. If it's vinyl siding, you can get a removal tool (it's a flat blade with a hook on the end that pulls two pieces apart). Take off a few pieces where you're working, securely attach the vent, seal around the edges (not sure if Tyvek tape is good enough, they make a rubber adhesive membrane for window openings), install a few pieces of J channel like you have around windows and doors, and cut (measure twice) and reinstall the siding. Vinyl siding screws should remain loose (should be able to slide a fingernail underneath) so that it can expand/contract with heat/cold.


Furnace can’t keep up when set to ON but keeps up fine on AUTO. Is this normal?

Running the fan reduces stratification, meeting that it makes the temperatures in the house even. The thermostat being centrally located in a house is often satisfied before the remainder of the house is able to warm up especially in an old house where the heating registers usually are centrally located what's return air located at outside walls. In a house with no insulation the exterior walls lose heat much faster than the heat can be replaced from the ambient air within the house. Basically it's an indication that you have a poor duct system which is not uncommon in an old house.
If you let me know the state, square footage not including the basement if it's below ground, the furnace model number or the size in btu I can tell you a little more about your system.
Edit
Although the above statements are very accurate I did interpret your question in reverse. I read it as, you were having a problem maintaining the temperature with the fan set to auto.
Having your issue with the fan set on would normally be a real head-scratcher. But in this case I would say you need to have a look at your Ecobee. It's a fantastic thermostat, I have one too and there are a lot of features available to tweak your system. If you have multiple sensors and and they are satisfied before the main thermostat the system may shut off prematurely.
This is a  screenshot of my ecobee

If the sensor upstairs reaches the temperature set point well ahead of the main thermostat I think ecobee uses some kind of average to determine when to shut it off.
To determine if this is the issue I would suggest turning off all the sensors except for the main thermostat run the fan set to on and see if anything changes.


Are the washer drain and electrical outlets underneath up to code?

As mentioned above, I'd consider putting the washer on a platform (can be built pretty quickly), with room for the operator. It's low cost and solves the issue. Have the landlord do it. :) Unless he wants to risk his basement being flooded by backflow from the washer. The basement should support a standard washer.


How do I cap the wires in this electric smoke alarm?

All three wires get capped separately with wire nuts.  You need to cap the neutral (white) wire because it can carry current from another part of the circuit.  Wrapping the nut in electrical tape is a good idea too.  They make nuts that are good for holding a single 12-gauge or 14-gauge wire (the ones I have are dark blue).

You don't need to do anything special with the ground wire, just be careful when you're pushing the other wires up into the box that you don't accidentally touch it to bare copper on one of the other wires.

Also remember that electrical junctions have to be accessible.  In your case, this would probably mean covering the hole in the ceiling with a blank face plate and installing the battery-powered detector somewhere else: I don't think you can use the base plate for the new detector as the cover.  I would also be concerned about drafts through that hole reducing the effectiveness of the detector.


Can I run 275ft underground cable to pole barn?

Your first, and only question that I see, is whether or not you can run 275 ft. of underground feeder wire to your barn.  The answer is: Yes, you can provided you use wire large enough so that the voltage drop at the barn is acceptable to your use.  As noted in your question, the commonly accepted value is 3%.
For long runs (i.e. large wire sizes) Al wire is significantly cheaper than Cu and the only benefit from using Cu is that you will use a smaller wire size.  The overall performance of a properly size Al wire vs. a properly size Cu wire is the same.
I do question your 100A load figure here.  Are you going to be running multiple tools at one time?  You've mentioned only a welder and a compressor but those together will take only 40A.  I can't imagine that you'll be using anywhere near 60A for your lighting.
BTW - you might consider LED lighting instead of fluorescent.  The cost difference is not that great any longer and LED use quite a bit less power.
I don't get your 1 AWG figure, however. Using the Southwire calculator at:
Southwire Wire Calculator
returns a recommendation of 4/0 :


How can I insulate behind pipes that are close to a foundation wall?

Cut the foam into manageable pieces and slide into place.  Use cans of spray foam insulation to fill the cracks in the sheets of foam caused by cutting.

Or spray foam the entire cavity and forget the rigid foam.


Year old asphalt driveway is still soft - chairs make holes

When I built my 1st home 40+ years ago I noticed that my neighbor had a beautiful, smooth, and very black asphalt driveway. I remarked to him that it looked great. He said it looks great but has the same problem that you are describing, being very soft on a hot day. I inquired about this problem with the asphalt driveway guy and he said that an asphalt driveway can be black,  beautiful, and soft or I can be "kind of black" with some gray stones showing and very hard. I chose the latter and found that it was almost indestructible. He had to replace his driveway in a few years and opted for one like mine.


Looks perfectly okay to me. I've seen p-traps and s-traps in worse configurations.