Is the Zinsser BIN Shellac primer sandable?

Pigmented Shellac like Bins is a great stain blocking primer. We use it for many purposes, bare wood, worn wood cabinets smoke and water damage etc. Bin's is very sandable and should be sanded between coats. When you apply it, work fast, get it on as even as you can, but do not try to over work it. It flashes fast and trying to overbrush partially dried bin's will cause it to curl and drag. Shellac sands very easily and boo boos can be fixed, no problem. I often use two or even three fast coats of Bin's on old wood cabinets, sanding lightly between coats.  If you feel the surface before and after sanding gently  with 400 grit paper, the difference is amazing. Sanded shellac will be extremely smooth and a great base for cabinet grade latex paints. Don't use cheap paint, get a cabinet grade, it makes all the difference in the world with filling and smoothness.  So use Bins, sand it and you will get great results.


The window had a broken channel balance. I was able to order parts and replace both channel balances. I replaced both since it seemed like I should but maybe I could have just replaced the broken one.
How to replace a non-tilt window channel balance:
https://youtu.be/u4g8Z8jkwTk


How to track down source of water ingress

I have found using a infrared camera can be helpful in tracking leaks. My biggest headache was a leak that traveled more than 12’ from the point where the water was entering. The FLIR camera I use is a add on to my phone I use the pro model because of the added sensitivity and software. I have identified leaks that we could not see running down the framework. It is handy for evaluating heating and cooling losses and for electrical inspections you can find a bad connection or overloaded circuit by the heat. You may be able to identify the leak without removing the Sheetrock. I don’t have many saved photos but here is an example of a hot wire that can be seen with the cover on. With the water leaks they are green /blue with the standard colors but they show up quite similar to that hot wire. I should mention I have no interest in the FLIR company but this is my 2nd camera I have taken probably thousands of photos and found loose wires both at work and home.


How do I properly paint a wood floor made of plywood?

if you use one of those powerful floor sanders, be sure to use fine grit paper and go easy.  Plywood can damage easily and those sanders are aggressive and designed for hardwood. A good 6 or 7 inch DA sander would be a good bet, especially around the edges. Be careful, don't tear up the plywood with a monster sander!!!  lol.

As far as paint, select a good grade floor enamel. Roll it on with a short nap roller. A moehair or 1/4" nap is perfect for leaving a good smooth finish without a lot of orange peel effect.


There are many applications in home wiring where part of a circuit requires 2 wires travel somewhere.  However, as it works out, they are not hot and neutral - they are whatever and whatever - switched-hot and travelers, hot and switched-hot for a switch loop, you name it.  You as an electrician are expected to know of the existence of such arrangements.  They don't make special cables for these.  You use the exact same commodity off-the-shelf brown/blue T&E that you use for everything else.  And you, as an electrician, are expected to recognize one of these odd arrangements when  you stumble upon it.

If you really want to iterate on this question, you can keep following wires and testing, and you will eventually discover what this box is associated with and what it does.  However that is orthogonal to your goal, and I strongly recommend against trying to learn electrical by tinkering; this results in a very "holey" education (as does searching Google).  Books provide a far more complete education far more efficiently.


How long are the 6 x 12cm beams?

With just two sides and a top you are going to have problems with a freestanding unit wanting to parallelogram unless you put some corner bracing in the upper corners that should span down at least 25 to 35% of the height. This of course can be mitigated by fastening into the existing building structure.

It is my feeling that the sides being framed from 2.4 x 4.8cm members is pretty flimsy. I would use something that is much sturdier more like on the order of 4.8 x 9.6cm for the side members.


What are some quantifiable metrics for comparing digital antennae?

First things first, there is no such thing as a digital antenna, RF does not care whether the underlying modulation is digital pulse, FM, AM, SSB, Chirp or Spread Spectrum.

Second, if you live any distance away from the transmission antenna, the more aluminum overcast you have, the more signal strength you receive. Whether it's inside or outside, size does matter. VHF/UHF Yagi-Uda or Log-periodic antennas increase gain and narrow the beamwidth as you add elements. UHF Half-wave arrays increase gain and narrow the beamwidth as you add bays to the array.

Third, antenna configuration is dependent on the frequency, so VHF, UHF or both?

Fourth, length of the downlead is important as the longer the run, the more it absorbs the signal, requiring mast amplifiers to strengthen the signal before the SNR destroys it.

Now for some links to help figure things out. These are long term resources that can't be replicated here, so it will have to do.

From the people who gave us that fine Digital TV that allows you to enjoy Satellite Dish reception. Key in your Address, City, Zipcode and it will tell you High/Low VHF, UHF and best guess at signal strength. "No Signal" sometimes can be taken cum grano salis.

FCC DTV Reception Maps

This site is provided among a consortium that includes CEA and NAB (National Association of Broadcasters) to help figure out signal strength and antenna headings. It gives you a color code that's explained over on their Antenna Info page to help determine what type of antenna will best receive the signal (directional, high gain, general coverage, etc.)

AntennaWeb Antenna Selector

Directional antennas help cut down on multipath (The old ghosting now is signal jitter, annoying with analog, no signal with digital) but if the beamwidth is too narrow, require a rotator for off-beam signals.

High Gain antennas help improve the received signal strength so it doesn't cut out. Extreme range requires a mast mounted amplifier for yet more signal strength so DTV doesn't drive you insane.

While gain and directional capabilities are directly related (high gain, narrow beam), flat-landers often can get by with less gain and broader beamwidth, tailoring the gain to what's necessary to get a good picture while not having to rotate the antenna if most of the stations are clustered in a certain direction.


Door automatic closer - Can it be tightened?

That is a 35mm cup hinge, sometimes known as a Euro hinge.

They wear out over time, so replacement is a cheap and cheerful option. If you buy a cheap one (say, at a big box store), you'll need to replace it at some point; if you buy a Blum/ Hafele/ Salice or other high-end replacement, it'll last as long as the cabinet.

When buying, you'll be faced with a staggering number of options regarding "overlay" and opening angle. Best bet is to remove the existing hinge and bring it into a brick/mortar place. Otherwise, a bit of work googling will allow you to match it up. One other option: you can get ones that clip on (as opposed to being screwed in place), which is very convenient.

Be gentle with the screwdriver when re-attaching the hinges... particle board won't take much abuse. A toothpick and some glue in the hole might help if things feel loose.


It's the B terminal on your unit

Your unit labels the 24V common as B instead of C.  How can I tell? We start with the wire from the thermostat going to the Y terminal on your unit, and then note that since you have central air, the wire from the Y terminal on your indoor unit goes off into the cable to your air conditioner's compressor (outdoor unit).  Since the thermostat is applying 24VAC from R to Y (like a light switch) to turn the air conditioning on, then the other end of the compressor contactor's coil must be connected to the 24VAC common for this to work (just like a light fixture needs a switched-hot and a neutral), and that other wire from the compressor connects to the B terminal on your indoor unit.

So take the back-wrapped blue wire from the cable going off to the thermostat (the upper cable in your 2nd photo), strip the insulation off the end, and attach it to  the B terminal alongside the wire that's already there.  Then you can install your new thermostat, turn everything back on, and enjoy!


How can I tighten a large nut under the sink?

The basin wrench you linked to would be the right tool if the hex nut was 1" or less. For a larger nut like this, it was designed to be either hand tightened, or with a wrench like the channel lock or adjustable wrench you linked to. But to use the wrench, you would need to first remove the sink from the counter.

Some newer faucets have worked around this problem by using a hand tightened nut that has two screws on either side. Once you tightened the nut as far as you can by hand, you tighten the screws which press against a washer, firmly holding down the fixture. If you can't get a basin wrench on it, and don't want to remove your sink from the counter, then I'd recommend taking this fixture back and finding one that would be easier to install in your situation.


Structural integrity of new fence on concrete slab

You aren't clear on how the posts are anchored. Are you pouring concrete piers or doing metal mounting plates with concrete anchors? Either way, I think your plan is sound but you should also anchor the center posts which are floating in your current plan. That will add considerably more structural integrity to your fencing.
I like the 6x6 posts for strength and aesthetics.


Why is there a septic/methane smell only in our kitchen?

A stutgard? I assume this is a brand of air admittance valve (AAV)? This is basically a one way air valve that allows air into the vent to break any siphon action on the trap seals, but supposedly prevents sewer gases from coming out of the vent into the house.

All the AAVs I've seen involve a lightly sprung wafer valve mechanism. They can sometimes become wedged slightly open due to debris or poor fit. Usually manually operating the wafer will free it so that it works normally again. You should be able to access the AAV itself, they are supposed to be installed in an accessible location for this reason. You may need to improvise a tool to manipulate the actual valve mechanism.

These devices have never struck me as completely gas tight when closed, it's not hard to imagine some small amount of gas could filter through enough that someone sensitive to such odors might detect it even when the AAV is operating normally. This last bit is strictly my opinion and disagreement from others is entirely possible.


Diatomaceous earth is used by bed bug control professionals as one tool among many, but the best recourse is professional help. If you have an home owner's association or are renting, they should be alerted and have funds to cover some of the costs.

TALK TO A BEG BUG PROFESSIONAL. Initial consultations are usually free.

Otherwise, additional basic starting tools are:

Mattress & box encasements (critical to install properly and watch for tears)
Traps for your bed frame legs
Spray bottle of 92% alcohol to kill bugs/eggs
Heat.

Laundering will kill bugs guaranteed
Put your items in a tightly tied garbage bag, leave in your car for an entire day in the summer sun (goal: a few hours of 120+ degrees F).

TALK TO A BEG BUG PROFESSIONAL. Initial consultations are usually free.


The more 'electronic' a power supply, the longer it takes to start up.  I had this nuisance in my pantry, where I only need light for a few seconds, so I don't want to wait another few seconds every time.  I also have a VERY high current demand from a lot of LEDs in total.

I used a sealed lead acid battery on a trickle charger, and a relays.  Battery is on common.  NO is connected to LEDs.  NC to a trickle charger.

Yeah.  I'll have to replace the battery when it goes out.  Beats waiting for a power supply to ramp up.

Long term, I think I'm going to make a service grade (100-400A) 12/24/48v DC bus for the house, with capacitors for buffering.

You might try a very simple 120vAC to 12vAC transformer (assuming thats your LED's voltage) with a rectifier and capacitor in some enclosure.  You're building electrics at that point, so test, and include fuses, etc.


Tapcons and similar are available in stainless:
https://www.tapcon.com/products/concrete-screw-anchors/410-stainless-steel-tapcon


I'd say the water pressure is too high. As the valve closes, the water rushes through a smaller and smaller hole.  The pitch of the sound of the water moving through the valve increases, as the size of the hole decreases.

Whistling works similarly.  You make a small hole with your lips and tongue, and force air through the hole.  The harder you blow, the louder the sound. The smaller the hole, the higher the pitch.

Measure the water pressure, and adjust/install a pressure reducing valve.


Kitchenaid gas stove - burner knob won't turn

I have this same stove. When we boil water and use the large burner on high the valve gets harder to turn. When it cools down it's fine.

The valves are replaceable. It is the small valve that the knob slides into. These are prone to failure. I bought two of these valves from an online retailer.


What does the Plumbing Code say about securing a bathtub faucet to the studs?

Take a look at item 2, from section P2705 of the 2006 International Residential Code.

  SECTION P2705 INSTALLATION

  P2705.1 General.

  The installation of fixtures shall conform to the following:

  Floor-outlet or floor-mounted fixtures shall be secured to the drainage connection and to the floor, where so designed, by screws,
  bolts, washers, nuts and similar fasteners of copper, brass or other
  corrosion-resistant material.
  Wall-hung fixtures shall be rigidly supported so that strain is not transmitted to the plumbing system.
  Where fixtures come in contact with walls and floors, the contact area shall be water tight.
  Plumbing fixtures shall be usable.
  The centerline of water closets or bidets shall not be less than 15 inches (381 mm) from adjacent walls or partitions or not less than
  15 inches (381 mm) from the centerline of a bidet to the outermost rim
  of an adjacent water closet. There shall be at least 21 inches (533
  mm) clearance in front of the water closet, bidet or lavatory to any
  wall, fixture or door.
  The location of piping, fixtures or equipment shall not interfere with the operation of windows or doors.
  In areas prone to flooding as established by Table R301.2(1), plumbing fixtures shall be located or installed in accordance with
  Section R324.1.5.
  Integral fixture-fitting mounting surfaces on manufactured plumbing fixtures or plumbing fixtures constructed on site, shall meet
  the design requirements of ASME A112.19.2 or ASME A112.19.3.


how to stop a barn door from twisting a 2x8 header

If I understand correctly, your single thickness 2x8 header is sitting on a 4x4 post at each end (addressing each door's header as a single entity, not the entire 18' double-door span).

This means that you've got a 1.5" thick piece of wood (the nominal dimension of a 2x8) resting on a 3.5" thick post.

Normal residential header construction requires that the 2x material be doubled with a 0.5" piece of plywood or OSB sandwiched in between. This will give you a 3.5" thick header (1.5" + 1.5" + 0.5") to sit on your 3.5" wide post. This gives you better bearing on the post and, more importantly, significantly more strength in the header.

You don't indicate if the barn is build with residential-style 16" OC stud walls (unlikely) or is post-and-beam construction (much more likely). If it's post-an-beam, you probably don't need the load-bearing capacity of the doubled header, but, obviously you need it for torsional strength.

Purchase a single 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood or OSB
Purchase 2 @ 2x8 x 10'
Rip 3 strips out of the plywood/OSB, each 8' long by 7.5" wide (the nominal width of your 2x8)
Put one full length strip of sheathing against the existing header board, tight to one end of the header
Cut the 3rd strip into the appropriate lengths to cover the rest of the header (approximately 12" - measure to get the exact dimension)

Cut each to the precise length necessary to match each of the existing headers

Push each new 2x8 into the pocket above the door it was measured for
Nail thoroughly

2 rows of 3" 16d nails, spaced 6-8" horizontally should be more than adequate


Gas oven seems to be working, except for smell of gas and occasional in-oven flare

You either have a leak, or an air mixing tube is not aligned with the gas orifice feeding the venturi, or the orifice is wrong for your gas (or gas pressure).  check the alignment of all of the air-gas mixing venturi's.  Also make sure you have the right orifice for the type of fuel.  Also check the gas pressure.  If you have a malfunctioning pressure regulator, the orifice may be intermittantly getting the wrong pressure, and thus be intermittently delivering the wrong mix to the burner.  Check the pressure both while the oven is running, and when it is off.  If pressure rises when off, the regulator is leaking in the needle valve, if pressure fluxuates or is too high when it is running, there is some other mechanical problem with the regulator.


Is there a way to design/create a shower that is less prone to mold?

General construction advice for 'general' showers:

In/on the walls:

use RedGard as a vapor barrier over the cement board
use paperless or blueboard sheetrock
use mildew resistant pain
adequately vent the room with a proper exhaust fan

In the shower construction itself:

seal all caulk properly
make sure standing water can't puddle

Now, all that said, I pretty much agree. Showers as they are today aren't really designed as well as they should be IMHO.

For inexpensive solutions, I'm actually a fan of the more modern pre-moulded systems. You can get systems that look quite nice for under $1500 that come in 3 or 4 full-wall sections with gasket seems. I know folks tend to consider them 'cheaper' than a true tiled shower, but I actually find them much more intriguing from an engineering standpoint. They just make more sense to me in a modern home.

For more quirky/unique solutions, I've seen:

metal sheeting. Corrugated Galvanized sheets, for example. Copper as another.
all glass
sealed monolithic concrete (note that concrete is extremely porous so would have to be sealed with something like an epoxy coating)

And...most recently...we stayed at a new hotel a few weeks ago where the shower walls were made out of solid slabs of the same counter-top material as the vanity. It looked really nice actually, I'm guessing it was a Corian like product.


Short run of propane to stove and tankless WH

What I ended up getting was a hose with a regulator.  On the other end was a 3/8" flare female.  I found a 3/8" flare male to 1/2" MIP (Male iron pipe).  I used a 1/2" coupling to a 3" nipple to a tee.  From there it went to each of the 1/2" nipples through the wall, to a street elbow, and finally to a gas shutoff valve.  This is the basic setup now.  I'll have to order a changeover for the 2nd tank.

street elbow => shutoff         street elbow => shutoff
|              ---------        |
|                wall           |
|              ---------        |
|__________________Tee__________|
                    |
                    |
              1/2" coupling
                    |
        3/8" male flare to 1/2" MIP
Regulator with hose 5/8" female to 3/8" female
              propane tank


There are some companies that make zoned bath ventilation systems if you need such precise control.
One fan unit, multiple register units at each location that has a damper control at the register. Depending which zone is turned on, the corresponding damper at that register will open to allow airflow. For example, American Aldes Vent Zone


Plaster identification and screw recommendation

You have a standard drywall wall. I have used these anchors for years with much success. They can be installed without drilling and removed easily without a lot of damage to the wall and used again. I've included a picture of them. They can be used with #6 or #8 screws.


Geotextile Filter for French drain woven or non-woven?

It depends on what your soil consists of. Actually, a nonwoven fabric is recommended for soils on the sandy side. However if your soil is a good part (>20%) clay, thats where things get tricky. The opening has to be smaller, about 70 US Sieve (.212mm), but there's a catch. The smaller opening will now be subject to clogging the fabric instead of the pipe and then the entire trench ends up rejecting the water. I'm currently reading about woven monofilament fabrics but the only viable option appears to be a Carthage Mills 20% Fabric. It's got a 70 US Sieve opening, 20% Open Area, 48 g/pm flow rate (may be an issue as it's half of what is common for nonwoven), and a permittivity of .68 sec which should be closer to 1.0 or greater.


Just follow the instructions

As per the wiring diagram in the instructions:

The always-hot goes to a cable joiner, then is pigtailed from there to terminals 2 and 3
The neutral has a pigtail running from the cable joiner to terminal 1
And the switched-hot goes to terminal 4


Should I replace a stove wall outlet that became loose but we bent back the prongs?

3-prong outlets are obsolete and very dangerous.  Specifically, the appliance industry lobbied NFPA to allow bootlegging ground on dryers and ranges, on the logic that these sockets are rarely disturbed. However, This means an ordinary failure in the neutral wire electrifies the chassis of the appliance.

As such, any failure in a 3-prong appliance cord is nothing to trifle with.  It should be replaced, both socket and plug, with all possible urgency.

Now, if upon removing the socket, you discover there actually is a ground wire there*,  or if there is metal conduit which provides ground, or if it is easy to retrofit a ground wire via any viable route, or if you are willing to fit a GFCI breaker on this circuit which moots ground... In any of those cases, you should seize the moment and upgrade to a 4-prong plug and socket. Part of this is removing the neutral-ground bootleg strap in the appliance.

If you use the "not actually grounding it but fitting a GFCI breaker" approach, mark the socket "GFCI Protected/No Equipment Ground".

These sockets are not designed for (not strong enough for) frequent swapping.  If you have a reason to be frequently swapping this plug, then ask a new question about your reasons for doing so, and if there is a better way to do this (there is).

* It happens all the time where a house is built with a 4-prong socket, and the appliances arrives with a 3-prong plug, so the builder changes the socket to 3-prong since modifying buildings is his bailiwick, and modifying appliances is not. Later a new appliance is purchased, and the installer changes the 4-prong plug to a 3-prong (instead of restoring the 4-prong socket) because modifying appliances is his bailiwick, and modifying buildings is not.


How can I replace multiple 3 way switches with motion sensors?

You can probably replace the switches with those sensors, but you're going to have to do some creative wiring to work around the fact that they're not 3-way switches, but the switches you're replacing with them are. You'll likely end up with the light being on whenever either of the switches is on. You also might run into trouble if they ran the 3-way switches as a switch loop (no neutral in box), because "smart switches" like these require a neutral so they can use power for themselves to decide when to switch on and off.

Here's what the difference between these wiring schemes looks like if you draw it out:

Also note that those occupancy sensors still have a hard-on switch, so your tenants can still just leave the lights on. You might want to look instead at vacancy sensors. (An example vacancy sensor is Cooper Wiring Devices K01-400RW-L, but note that it does not handle CFLs, just incandescents.) These, you tap to turn them on, and they turn themselves off automatically when everyone's gone. That sounds more like what you want.

The how for switch #1 depends again on how they wired your #1 switches and the light they control together. If you diagram out the connections, it becomes straightforward. Until you have enough info to diagram it out, you don't have enough info to rewire it, either.

As an aside, all the exterior stairwell lights I've seen in apartment complexes were on timers. They'd come on around dark and flip off in the morning. I knew they were timers rather than photosensors because a couple times a year they'd end up slightly out of sync with actual daylight hours, but if these are in fact exterior lights, putting them on a photosensor and disabling the switches entirely might be an option.


Sounds like a plugged drain which might be in the outlet of the disposer, but most probably is below where the drains join, maybe in the U-trap. Fill both sinks 1/4 full of water and use a plunger first on the non-disposer sink and see if this clears the blockage. If it doesn't, then use the plunger on the disposer side. Push down easy and pull up vigorously on the plunger to pull the plug out and apart, then see if this clears the blockage. Put a stopper in the other drain when you are plunging on one (prevents the suction action of the plunger from just pulling in water through the other drain). The action you want it to pull on the blockage from below.

You may have pieces of wood lodged in the drain. If solid material comes up into the sink, fish it out and put it in the trash.


Your question is pretty broad, so this answer will be as well.

When troubleshooting issues like this, you are going to have to open up electrical boxes, and look at all the wires inside.  This normally means pulling out the light switches (don't disconnect anything unless it is clearly labeled for later) and the light fixtures to get a clear picture of what is happening.

When wires come into an electrical box, they can do a few things.  They can just pass right through on to the next box.  They can be switched on and off and then go to the next box.  Finally, they can supply power to a fixture (and then go on to another box).

In your situation, one thing that could have happened is that in the switch for the closet light, there was supposed to be an un-switched wire that passes on to the switch for the room light, but it accidentally got tied into the switch.  This mis-wiring could have also happened in the box for the closet light fixture.

The first step is to open the closet switch box and light fixture and see how they are wired.  Pay attention to black wires that are bundled together and . think about how constant power comes into the box and needs to leave the box, and switched power must also leave the box to get to the light fixture.  If you don't see something you can't explain, you may also need to open up the two boxes for the bedroom.

Now, I will also say that figuring this out might not be the best "first project" to tackle if you have not dealt with home electrical.  If you have installed switches, outlets, and light fixtures and maybe installed a new outlet, etc, you would be more prepared.  Some of the wiring conventions might not be obvious to a newcomer, and it's easy to mess things up.


train xl 80 unit fires up then shuts right off

I just yesterday dealt with one like that. It had electric ignition (glowing ignitor) and a single yelloow "flame sense" wire. This is only the second one of these I've found in a decade, but the problem and the solution is the same. IF your unit uses ion flame detection, the burner ground has become oxidized. It may look like metal against metal, but a fine coat of invisible oxidation had formed between the metal parts. It needs a good "ground reference" before it can detect the ions.

To fix this, I removed the burner. While I had it out, I scraped the flame rod tip some but it wasn't really dirty. When I put it back in, I intentionally made one of the self-tapping sheet metal screws dig a new groove instead of putting it back in the first grooves. I also got it good and tight.

Just as in the first case, the mere act of disturbing the mechanical assembly caused a better ground to be formed. It must be working, because I didn't have to get up last night and go fix it.


Should we turn our oil hot water heater off every night?

Electric water heaters lose very little heat.  Putting a blanket on them or putting them on a timer won't save much money.

NG/propane/oil water heaters, on the other hand, lose significantly more heat, as they not only lose heat through their outside surfaces, but also even more heat via the flue.  Putting a blanket around the outside will prevent perhaps 10% of the standby losses -- worth it if you're using propane but not NG.

Turning the water heater off will lower the temperature difference between the water inside the tank and the air outside the tank, so it can save you a significant amount of money ($3-4 for propane; I'm not sure how oil compares to propane) if you go out of town for a week and turn the water heater off (because after a few days, the temperature difference for the disabled water heater will be nearly zero and standby losses, being proportional to the temperature difference, will also be nearly zero.)  Turning the water heater off for only 12 hours a day will probably only save you ~40 cents a week if you have propane.  Perhaps worth it if you can find a cheap device to do it for you, but not worth the trouble of doing it manually.

NOTE: By mentioning that lowering the temperature difference between water inside the tank vs. air outside the tank, one might be inclined to lower the setting on water heater to ~115 degrees Fahrenheit.  While this will indeed decrease your standby losses, this is not safe.  At lower temperatures, bacteria commonly known as "legionella" will grow, which is particularly dangerous to elderly and children, and sometimes causes death.  If you would like to lower the setting on your water heater, you must raise the temperature on the water heater to 135-140F for at least one day each month.


Where does my garage drain go and how can I unclog it?

Your garage drain could go anywhere--it could be tied into your septic system or sewer connection, or it could go to a separate exterior drywell or leach field. It could even head into a sump pit to be pumped out by a sump pump. Its impossible to know without a whole lot more information about your specific circumstance.

As to how to unclog it, your best bet may be a high-pressure water jet snake.

These can be rented from tool rental outfits, or you could call in a professional. They tend to be better at removing sandy-type clogs than conventional drain snakes.


How to remove milk smell from hardwood floor?

Ok, so the thing that finally worked was Old English Oil! Murphy's Oil Soap will also work. Any other similar product/brand should do the trick too.


Installing a washing machine - sink drain pipe closed

Dishwasher Inlet

First of all, I assume we are talking here about a dishwasher and not a machine for washing clothing. It is unusual to connect a "washing machine" (as opposed to a "dishwasher") under the kitchen sink, though not impossible. I believe this is a difference in terminology between the USA and other parts of the world. Continuing based on dishwasher.

In the USA, many (most?) people have a disposal under the kitchen sink. I understand that is not nearly as common in other parts of the world. Most disposals (all the ones I've worked with, but I am not a professional plumber so my experience is limited) have a dishwasher inlet that looks very similar to the capped pipe. I believe the capped pipe is a dishwasher inlet. You should be able to remove (cut off if necessary, as close to the top as possible) the cap and attach the dishwasher hose directly to the pipe. The ridges on the pipe help to keep the dishwasher hose attached, though you can put on a clamp if it does not seem to be secure enough. If the dishwasher hose and the pipe are not compatible (the dishwasher hose should be just large enough to fit snugly over the pipe) then you will need an adapter - measure the hose and the pipe and go to your favorite hardware store.
When you install the dishwasher hose, it can be connected in one of two ways:

Air gap - a metal/plastic gadget that is typically installed next to the faucet. One hose goes from the dishwasher to the air gap. Another hose goes from the air gap down to the pipes. These are a pain (they often break over time, leaking around & under the sink) but in some places they are still the only legal way to install a dishwasher.
High hose loop - the dishwasher hose loops up to just under the counter and then down to the pipes. This has the same general effect as a traditional air gap - preventing sewer water from backing up into the dishwasher - but is much simpler and easier to install.

As far as asking permission: If the landlord already knows you are installing a dishwasher then there should not be an issue. If the landlord does NOT know you are installing a dishwasher, then I recommend checking with him first. Cutting the cap off the pipe is no big deal, but installing a dishwasher - which can affect water usage and which (typically, unless you are using a portable unit, in which case cutting the pipes would not even be an issue) normally involves replacing a cabinet with the dishwasher - is something the landlord would expect to be consulted before installation.
While you're at it, the pipes look a bit strange. As already noted in comments, the trap is not a typical P-trap, though logically it should work. In addition, the pipe coming out of the trap is a flexible corrugated hose. That is generally not recommended as it can collect grease & debris in the folds and clog more easily than a regular pipe. (You may say "but isn't the dishwasher hose the same?" and the answer is "the dishwasher doesn't get as much as the main drain pipe and the dishwasher hose is easily removable to clean if it gets  clogged".)


Adding extra outlets to reduce breaker tripping?

More outlets won't help with breaker tripping if they are still on the same circuit. You need to split some loads out onto their own circuits. These would have their own breakers. I would start with the portable AC.


Metal and/or fully adhered rubber flashing and drip edge on top of door trim placed under siding.  Oil based finish to door and frame.  Seal bottom and side edges of door with oil based finish.


How high I should install a 52 inch TV on the wall?

First, sit on your couch in the ideal viewing position (ie: where your butt imprint is).  The bottom 1/3 of the TV should be at eye level when mounted.  Everyone has an opinion about exact positioning, but this is more or less the general rule of thumb I've found from various sources, and it has always worked well for me.

I find most people mount them too high. No one likes sitting in the front-row at the movie theater, so why do it at home?


Is there a way to secure a hoop house other then driving posts into the ground?

Or, stated differently: is there a way to get posts into the ground without blindly driving them in?
Yes. Use a wet/dry "shop" vac to dig a hole. If needed, loosen the soil carefully with an appropriate tool (a digging bar, a large screwdriver, a crowbar, etc).
Once you've excavated a hole, set a post in the hole and backfill. The backfill could be native soil, imported sand, concrete, etc. Vibrate the post by thumping it sideways with a mallet or dead blow hammer to help the backfill compact around the post.


How to turn an outdoors tree stump into a table?

It will rot.  Eventually.  However, there's no reason why you can't enjoy it as a table for many years.  I'd smooth off the surface after it dries a bit and seal it with a deck sealer.  This will help preserve the top.  But it will continue to rot from below, and eventually you'll have to remove it.

How long from now "eventually" actually is is dependent on many factors such as climate, exposure, type of wood, animal and insect presence.


Does adding metal plate/foil behind radiators increases their heat distribution?

Statistics? I'd argue this is a misuse of the word, unless you are asking what is the fraction of photons reflected by the reflective surface. Since that truly is a probabilistic question, we could indeed compute statistics on the distribution of such reflections.

Yes, this is not just a theory. Heat is transmitted in several ways. One such way is convection. So the radiator heats the air around it, which will rise, displaced by heavier cool air from the rest of the room. These convective air currents cause a transmission of heat from the radiator into the room.

A second way that heat is transmitted is by radiation. Infrared photons will carry off energy (heat) from the radiator. Some of these photons land on the wall behind the radiator. If the wall absorbs them, then it will get warmer. So the trick is to put a reflecting surface in the way. A SHINY metallic surface is such a solution, a heat mirror. Thus a shiny metal foil will suffice. Even a regular mirror, which is simply a piece of glass with a metallized reflective back surface that reflects light, will suffice.


Can a light with a built in motion sensor, be used with dimmer switch?

No, such an arrangement will either flat out not work, or have very poor reliability.

The motion detector logic requires full uninterrupted voltage and a dimmer switch is going to inject noise into the power which will disrupt the motion logic or its sensor.

Additionally, even if the motion sensor continued to work, the cycling of the light on and off would disrupt the load of the dimmer and make the voltage wildly vary.

You might get lucky with some quality components and dimmer settings, but it would be better to simply replace the bulbs with those of a lower wattage.


Is standing water at bottom of dishwasher normal?

Standing water in the bottom of the dish washer after a cleaning cycle is complete is NOT normal. After the wash/rinse cycle and the pump out your dishwasher not have water in it.

Standing water could be due to number of problems. I'll list out some of the things to check on.

1) There is a possibility that the filter screen in the bottom of your washer is mostly plugged up and not allowing the water to drain down into the pump. Clean it and try another wash.

2) Many dishwashers are installed with an air gap assembly at the kitchen counter level. These are designed to keep the sink drain from siphoning or draining back down into the dishwasher. Sometimes things from the dishwasher can get up into the air-gap and plug it and thus impeded the drainage of the dishwasher.

3) Your washer could be old and tired from washing countless loads of dishes. The pump unit in the bottom that drains the water out can sometimes fail and need replacement.

4) With some older style dishwashers that have the rotary timer knob it is possible that some electrical contacts in the timer mechanism get burned and make certain parts of the wash cycle not work correctly. This could be causing the drain pump to not be running when it is supposed to. Replacement of the timer would be the fix for this.

Note that dirty food bearing water left standing the bottom of the dishwasher could be a spawning ground for all kinds of nasty and unhealthy things. Can also leave something to be desired about the quality of the wash job it will do on your next load of dishes. So for the health of you and your family it is a good thing you are looking into this problem.


Here is a picture of the proper wiring for a Pre-Wired Ceiling fan installation.


I'd like to thank everyone participating and up-voting. I went to home depot today and bought a new air gap. Upon a further inspection I found out that my air gap is missing a cover: a piece of plastic that routes the water coming from the DW into the drain.

Long story short, it somehow got popped out and my wife "saved" it by sticking into the kitchen drawer.


The drain line is plugged beyond the downstairs toilet.


Dryer won't start. Uses a 4 prong 240v outlet where hot/ground is 120v but hot/neutral is 50v. What's wrong?

It's an open neutral.

The neutral wire has lost connection somewhere.

You are getting indeterminate readings because you are using a common digital multimeter (DVM).  Those have very high input impedance - which is normally a desired feature in a meter.  However on a long run of parallel wires, if a floating wire is near a live one, it will pick up a "ghost voltage" by capacitive coupling or induction.  It doesn't exist in any usable amount of current (paying out 500' of wire under a high-tension line won't get you anything), but these meters are so sensitive they will pick it up as a varying voltage somewhere between 0 and the line voltage of the adjacent wire(s).  It's common for it to drift around, that's a sure sign actually.

So that tells you that your neutral break is probably not right at the receptacle.

As a sidebar, 3-prong (groundless) NEMA 10 type connectors are still allowed for dryers and ranges. These omit ground, and ground the chassis of the machine to neutral. The logic is that these appliances are rarely moved, and neutral wire failures are extremely rare.  Not so rare, apparently.  When you lose neutral on a NEMA 10 connection, it electrifies the chassis of the machine. The washer next to it is properly grounded, touch both and BLAM.

So that 4-prong hookup provided a real safety dividend for you today.


Tile Shower Surround—Cement Backerboard Location?

That is pretty much it except waterproofing.  The easiest way to do this is do your plastic**/backerboard first, then drywall, mud/tape/sand/, hit it with waterproof membrane***, then tile last.

** - I don't put plastic behind hardiboard unless I am afraid of water coming in from the other direction.  With plastic if backer gets wet you are looking at longer dry times and the water most likely making its way down.

*** - You can use something like redgard.  It paints on in about 20 mins and you do two coats.  Its $50.  Does a tub surround HAVE to have this.  No.  Would I suggest it.  Hmmm.  I don't know.  This is determined by what is behind tub walls and materials.  Hardiboard isn't going to let a small amount of water going through grout hit the other side.  Some other brands of backer will (for instance durarock - which I would never use for showers but prefer for floors).  If it is an outside wall, especially one that might be cold for a few months, I would be more apt to do the waterproofing.  I just did a tub in my house a couple years ago and didn't.  It is all inside walls and would have been overkill.  (Old tile was on drywall that was in pristine condition after 50 years)

Another tip is to use the .5" hardiboard for tub.  You will need to buy 4 sheets for a typical tub.  They come in 3X5 sheets.  You will simply stand each one up for each end.  So backer will extend outside of the tub and 5 feet above it.  You will then lie the back piece horizontally, and then cut your fourth at 2 feet to be even with the others.  This advice is given you have standard American 5 foot tub.  If you don't just make sure backer extends a few inches outside tub and goes about 5 feet higher than tub.  For tiling I always recommend trying to tile past backer board so you have seamless transitions.


How does a garage door wall button differentiate between a door open button, and a light button?

You got me curious so I went to check my garage door opener. I have a Genie pro stealth. It shows 3.8vdc at the terminals where the switch(s) goes. The voltage at the terminals drops to 2.1vdc if I press the light switch and 0v if I press the open/close switch. So ... it uses a resistor plus the switch for the light and a just the switch for the open/close.

Technically you could say it is a voltage divider.

Sorry  but I was too lazy to check for a signal with a scope. I know the sensors use a square wave with a dc offset (In my case). I built an alarm for the sensors a while back.

Hope that helps.


When applying thinset, put it on in a flat coat first,, and lay it on thick, pressing it against the wall or floor. THEN go back at an angle and notch it, removing excess. This makes sure the thinset has good contact with the wall over the whole area and will bond well. Laying it on at an angle, so it's notched in one pass, doesn't spread the thinset over the wall nor press it into the wall as well as laying it flat first.

Use a V-notch trowel, definitely; A narrow U-notch will work in a pinch, and don't bother with square-notch; those are for laying floor tile mostly, where you need a lot of vertical play to create a level surface. If the mesh tile doesn't seem to be adhering well to the wall, you can try "back-buttering" the mesh with some more thinset, kind of like applying glue to both sides of a wood joint. Just don't damage the mesh or lose too many attached tiles. Don't be afraid to really lean in with pressure to get the tiles into that thinset; just don't pound on the tiles/wall too hard.


They are saying a product like invade bio drain will work https://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/drainflies.htm

If by drain flies you mean fruit flies I've had flawless success with a shallow bowl of apple cider vinegar with a little Dawn on top.  They fly in and can't get out.  A few days to clear em out.


Adding exhaust fan to existing single light switch

You should extend the wiring from the light, not the switch. There should be two wires on your light fixture, one grounded (neutral), and one ungrounded (hot) conductor that's controlled by the switch. Extend those wires to the fan, along with a grounding conductor. That will allow the switch to control both the light, and the fan simultaneously.


New washing machine seal rubbing, new spider arm?

Checked the bearing by checking if there was any play between the plastic outer drum and metal inner drum, there was play so the bearings are bad


Can the neutral for a spa circuit be tied to either the neutral on a return leg or ground?

The answer to both A & B is NO.
The only place the ground and neutral can be tied together is in the main panel if under the NEC.
There is a 3rd way pull 4 wires.
Not wanting to pull a 4th wire would be a very shaky legal defense if someone bootlegs a ground and there is an injury.
If you only power a 240v load a neutral is not needed and that 3rd wire can be your ground but no tying neutral and ground together.


Wall leaks due to rotten wood in footer!

In the photo there is evidence of two different concrete work. The original is the curb with the 1 x 4 projecting from it and a more recent mix just above it. There is also a visible seam line on the wall which may indicate the wall was opened for some reason. In either case the board was most likely part of the concrete form that was constructed when and if the wall was repaired. My only doubt about it being form work is that it wasn't or couldn't be removed. Unless it was by the previous owner DIY-ing a wall repair.  But I'd agree with your plan to remove it and plug up the opening. If you use hydraulic cement patch you would not need to wait for the opening to dry. In fact hydraulic patch preforms better when the surrounding concrete is slightly wet. It will expand slightly so that it fills voids fairly completely.


No hot water in faucet where return line for recirculating pump is installed

"A trickle of hot with the cold turned off" is utterly normal for any modern fixture with a built-in anti-scald valve arrangement, which responds to low cold water pressure by blocking hot water flow.

If cold water is flowing from the faucet to the hot water circulating loop, it sounds like you need a check valve, or if you have one it's backwards, in the wrong location, or not working.


Door closer for a door that is not leveled to the wall.

If you have normal or near normal hinges, you may be able to use a hinge mounted door closer. They exist in many forms, with published ratings for doors weighing from 30 pounds to as much as 150 pounds.

One model does not require a hinge installation and appears to be mountable on the door frame.

The photo shows the heavy capacity version. This particular unit is found on Amazon (US) for a rather reasonable price, considering the capacity is listed at 150 pounds.

The above site also shows an installation video of about four minutes. Disregarding editing, it seems likely one could install this closer in four minutes.

Adjustable tension, various colors, seems like a great product.

If this doesn't meet your requirements, the search terms "hinge mounted door closer" should find something that will.


If I can think on this : while it looks like a military field operators wire spool for a communication link or possibly demolitions (not as likely).  This is neither of those items.

The clip at the handle actually is the wire holder (or shall I say Fishing Line Holder). Hook the Line there and then you can spool it onto the reel and catch the fish with out losing your line. Yours is in rough shape ..used well..must have had lots of fish..

What you have is a Vintage Surf Fishing Reel .. here are several pictures and a link to ebay ..

Links - this link in time will fail so I am posting it for the op ..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/192292267334?vectorid=229466&lgeo=1&item=192292267334&rmvSB=true


As others have commented:  The answer is yes.  The area will be heated until both thermostats turn off, and one area might be overheated.
A cleaner way to do this would be to buy a digital thermostat with a remote sensor (e.g. an ecobee) and have a schedule that either switches the driving input between the base and the remote sensor or averages them.   You can use heat correction factors to instruct the thermostat to do something like '70 in the living room or 65 in the entryway'.
Longer term, a fan, an extra zone, an extra space heater or a new loop may be necessary to get a more balanced temperature.


You are best picking one Code and following it religiously.   It looks like Ecuador is in the North American system of 120V on small circuits served as 240V/120V split-phase. So use American or Canadian code.

Any house in the United States gets only 3 wires from the power company and down the weatherhead: 2 hots and neutral. Typical weatherhead:

Note above that the bare weight-carrying cable is also carrying neutral.  That is an idiom only the power company gets away with.

Each house derives its own ground with ground rods or water pipe bonds or both.  And then, ground is bonded to neutral in the main panel only.  From there to all other points, neutral and ground are carried separately.   Go 8' on the copper bar, and use 2 of them at least 6' apart.  On an outbuilding you would also need a grounding system bonded to the ground bus.  That does not substitute for a wired ground, that is still needed. Dirt is not a good conductor.

That brings you into conformance with USA practice.

The main panel being defined as the panel where power comes in from the utility. If the power company provisions power to two of your buildings, you have two services.  Don't mix them.

Wire from a main panel to a subpanel in an outbuilding must be 4-wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground). If you only need 120V devices, you can omit a "hot".  Generally we bury lines between buildings, but if you go overhead, your bare/carrier wire can't be hot or neutral, those must be insulated.


Garbage disposal spins manually, but not on its own.

sounds like a mechanical failure, most likely the pin(s) or bushing(s) that hold the anvils in position are worn. when you hand spin it you can't product enough force to replicate the problem.
a new disposal should be no more than $125 and maybe an hour to install.


Track lighting connectors - brass? Aluminum? Tinned copper?

This is exactly what I was trying to say before, (what you found on Nora's spec sheet) admittedly not as clearly as I should. These manufacturers are not going to put their products at risk with such a fundamental flaw.  I have seen bus work in load centers over the years and learned that all those different colors mean little of nothing.  People will often think that just because a contact metal is silver in color, it has to be aluminum.  These manufacturers know very well the dangers of oxidation and specifically the problems with the oxidation of aluminum.  They avoid it like the plague.  Additionally, they know the results of mixing dissimilar base metals and the electrolysis that if can cause. This, they avoid as well.  The problem gets worse:  The metal ‘copper’ alone or in high concentration is actually a problem also because although it is an excellent conductor it alone is too soft to stand up to the rigors of an electrical contact surface.  Therefore, manufacturers combing copper with other alloys to make it stronger. Every manufacturer has their own proprietary mix and the resulting look or color is different in every case.  They pay metallurgist big money to figure these things out. You can be quite sure of this; the contact metal, you speak of, will stand up the rigors required and at the same time do an efficient job of conducting the electricity necessary without harmful reactions between metals. I hope I made this more clear. P.


What are the potential dangers of not removing the tabs on a split receptacle?

With a 120/240V single split-phase system, there are two possible outcomes.
Separate legs
If the branch circuits feeding the device are on separate legs of the service, then the tab will be creating a direct short-circuit between the legs.

This will cause a high current through the circuits, which should trip one of the breakers fairly quickly.
Same leg
If the receptacle is fed by branch circuits on the same leg of the service, the danger is a bit more subtle. Initially everything works fine, no sparks, no tripped breakers. In fact, this situation can go unnoticed indefinitely, and never cause a problem.
The problem only occurs, if you try to draw more current than the individual branch circuit ratings. In the example below, the branch circuit protection for each circuit is 15 amperes.

If you put a load on the circuits, you'll find that the current will take all available paths. This means that the current will actually be divided between the circuits, so that each will see half the current that's flowing through the load.  The yellow highlighting below, depicts the electricity's path through the circuits.

Still, there's no problem here. As long as the load does not draw more than the circuit rating, everything chugs along just fine.
The effects of this mistake only become evident, if the load draws more than the circuit rating.  If the load in our example draws 30 amperes, you'll start to see the problem.

If you measure the current flow at various points along the circuit, the problem becomes obvious.  Each branch circuit only sees 15 amperes, so neither breaker should trip. However, the receptacle will have to handle the full load current, which is well beyond the rated current. The receptacle will heat up and fail, potentially starting a fire as it does.


Adjusting pressure relief valve on well water

Most (or the ones I've met) well system pressure reliefs are non-adjustable. So if it leaks 30 PSI below rated pressure, I'd replace it (for less cost than your proposed tool purchase, as far as I recall.) Odds are that parts to rebuild yours will be more than simply buying a new one.

Toilet valves get wonky (or may) above 80 PSI or so, and any increase in well system pressure will reduce the effective capacity of the pressure tank (and should also be accompanied by adjusting the pressure in the pressure tank to a few PSI below the new low setpoint.) If your pump does not run at least a minute to refill the pressure tank (with nothing else drawing water) you should increase the size of the tank or add an additional tank.


You mention a column as the footer, so I'm assuming this is a post framed type of structure with the posts sitting on concrete piers.  If so, the posts must be supported directly on the piers, not on a slab poured over the pier.  You can do this by either extending the pier to the top of the slab and using a support like this (Simpson EPB44T) with the slab poured around the pier:

Or you can bring your pier to the bottom of the slab and use this style of support (Simpson PPBZ Porch Base), which you anchor to the pier, and then pour the slab over/around it:

This is NOT engineering advice - I suggest you talk to one to properly spec out this component for your application!

(just realized this question is 5 months old and probably OBE, not sure how it ended up on my feed - hopefully you got it right)


Can I re-shim the strike side of my door jamb to make a 28" door fit?

Depends on how big of a gap that you have that is currently being shimmed but yes this would be the easiest thing to do.  I would make sure that you have at least 3/16" gap at all points before doing this.

Note:  Just to be clear you should be using the new jams in this door.  At the very least you need to use the hinge side but preferably both.  After you take out old jams (top can stay if it is going to cause a ton of work - and most of the time it doesn't) you install put the new ones in.


Connecting a Leviton light timer w/ 3 way set up

Follow the instructions that came with the timer. Otherwise, look them up online. And make sure your timer and switch can handle LED lighting. This could be a critical point to consider, or not. Also, Which of these two switches takes power from the source, and which of these two switches gives power to the light(s)? Three-way switches typically have three terminals as well as a bond wire or a bond screw for Ground (4 altogether). Not sure why the Leviton would have 5 wires. Check the included specs sheet for clues.


Gravel and Cement Use for Chain Link Fence

The point of the gravel is not just for rot prevention.  You want to dig down below the frost line, first and foremost, so that any water below the post won't freeze and heave the post out of position.

The gravel below the post allows water a place to pool until it eventually drains away completely.  If you put the concrete directly in the ground then water could gather around the concrete at or above the frost level and cause heaving to the side.  Having that extra drainage helps prevent that.

So in general it's a good idea to put gravel in ALL your holes.  Critical?  Not necessarily.

Your last question - kinda hard to visualize and definitely on a different topic from the first two. You may want to split that part out to a new question.


How should I insulate a cantilevered bay with plumbing, ducting, and electrical?

I'd first be concerned with freezing pipes. If that's not an issue in your climate I'd pay to have the whole thing spray foamed. That's pricy but a good R value and prevents air leakage. Otherwise I'd use rigid foam and try to fill all the spaces and voids, with Great Stuff to "glue" it in place. That would be cheaper than spray foam but a lot more work as well.


If it was worse insulation, the room would be colder in the winter and hotter in the summer.

If it's hot all the time, that's an energy burn inside the room.  What is the wattage of the various lightbulbs?

If they are not LED, it's time.  Boilerplate primer on LED buying: Think carefully about color temperature and CRI, 2700-3000 and 80+ are good choices for homes.  I just installed a ton of those and nobody can tell they aren't incandescent, except of course that they are 6 watts.  Buy GE, Cree, Philips or Ikea.  Don't buy Lights of America, Utilitech or Feit Electric, no matter how good the price is.  Choose wisely, you won't be replacing them for a very long time.

Do they own a home computer?  What kind? Did they change it recently?


Brick fireplace - pulling away from wall

I would not leave it as is and cover the gap.  I would apply a thick application of  heavy duty heat resistant construction adhesive to the studs that you can reach and then push the brick face back to the studs either by jacking as you mentioned or better in my opinion would be :

Carefully Drill  1/8" holes through the mortar then enlarge to 1/4" directly in line with the studs on each side so they are just big enough for a 1/4 lag bolt. One in the motor just under the second coarse of brick and another about 18 to 24 inches lower. I would then cut two 2x4's just shorter than the distance from the hearth to the bottom of the mantel. drill holes in the 2x4's that match the holes in the motor. Now you can use a lag through the boards with a large/wide washer to slowly suck the entire face back to the studs.

I would pre-drill a pilot hole in the stud with long bit, 3/16?, so your lags can get a started and not bind to much and break. Apply your adhesive and place the 2x4's in place, put the lags in place and use a ratchet to tighten the lags. Start with a lower one and work your way around in circular pattern. Go slowly,  two turns at a time on each of the bottom ones and then the same on the top, slowly drawing the face back to the studs. You will need to use your best judgment to know when to stop, look at the gap, "feel" resistance when you get close. You want to make sure that the adhesive is contacting the back of the bricks. Leave the the 2x4 in place 24 hours for the adhesive to cure. You can then remove the lags and boards, patch the holes with mortar.

AS added insurance i would install a piece of quarter round or some other molding just under the mantle up against the brick. Glue and screw the molding to the mantle so it acts as a stop if the adhesive should fail in the future.

Mind you this i just an idea and i do not know if the whole face will move back without some damage/cracking of the mortar joints. Perhaps the middle will bow if the old fasteners bind? Maybe a 2x4 in the middle if you can line it up with a stud. Or maybe a piece of 5 quarter plywood cut to the size of the brick face and placed between the 2x4's and the brick work.  Again this is all theoretical.

IF you go the leave it in place and cover the gap method i would at least secure it with quarter round molding under the mantal if nothing else.


I'm going to go ahead and say that YES, you can do as you propose, wiring the two thermostats in parallel.

While, as others have correctly pointed out, this will not let you achieve temperature control in both the upstairs and downstairs simultaneously, I'm going to take you at your word that you simply do not want it to be uncomfortably cold in the basement when occupying the basement, and infer that you don't care what happens upstairs during those times.

In this case, go for it--install the second thermostat.

The upstairs area of the house will in fact be over-heated when you use this basement thermostat, but you may still consider the result to be an improvement over the current situation. Just remember to reset the basement thermostat to cooler temperature before you leave to go back upstairs or you will find yourself having to make the trip back down later.

The "correct" way to solve the problem is to split your system into two zones, which requires installing baffles/valves on your heating ducts/pipes, which would allow independent control of upstairs and downstairs.

If you are using traditional thermostats, then adding a thermostat in parallel will change the heat anticipator function in both of them. This is a function that reduces furnace run times to improve temperature stability. If both are always connected, lower the HA settings in each to fix.


Where can I find information on slow blow breakers?

I don't know about "slow trip circuit breakers", but maybe I can help you understand trip curves (and circuit breakers) a bit better. Then you'll see that all circuit breakers are "slow trip".
Your basic, everyday, run of the mill circuit breaker offers two types of protection. Short-circuit protection is provided using a magnetic trip function, while overload (over-current) protection uses a thermal trip function.
Short-circuit Protection
To provide this type of protection, a circuit breaker relies on the fact that current traveling through a wire creates a magnetic field.  The breaker basically uses a solenoid to open the circuit, in the event that there's a large fault current flowing.  If there's enough current flowing, the magnetic field is large enough to pull open the circuit. This is often known as an instantaneous trip, because it can react in just a cycle or two (0 - 0.05 seconds).
Overcurrent Protection
This type of protection is provided using a thermal device, that works based on the fact that current traveling through a wire generates heat. As the current flowing through a wire increases, so too does the temperature of the wire.  A circuit breaker uses a bi-metal strip to trip the breaker, if the temperature (current) gets too high.  This is known as "long trip", or "slow trip", because it takes time for the breaker to react (0.5 - 1000 seconds).
Trip Curves
If you look at the trip curve of a breaker, you can see both types of protection in action. You'll notice a slow arcing motion leading down the chart, this is the "long time trip" portion of the chart.  As the current increases, the time required for the breaker to trip decreases. Eventually, the breaker hits the instantaneous trip threshold. At this point the breaker trips within a cycle or two. This can be seen at the bottom of the chart, where the curve levels off and goes straight across the bottom of the chart.

Now that we've covered the basics, let's take a look at an example.  Here's the trip curve for a 20 ampere Square-D QO circuit breaker.

Click for larger view
The vertical axis is time in seconds, and the horizontal axis is multiples of current.  I've highlighted in orange what two times the breakers rating looks like (40 amperes). As you can see, even at 40 amperes this breaker shouldn't trip for about 9 to 35 seconds. This is because it's relying on the thermal protection, and the bi-metal strip has to heat enough before it pulls the circuit open.
I've also highlighted in red what it would take to trip the breaker in one second, since an observer might consider a second "instantaneous". You'll notice that it should take between 4.5 and 8 times the breakers rating, before the breaker trips in under a second. That means your saw would be pulling 90-160 amperes, when the breaker tripped.
If your saw is pulling that much current, the problem is not the breaker, it's the saw. Increasing the size of the breaker is not the solution.
Check the saw for faults, including a short-circuit. You may also want to test/replace the breaker, as breakers can go bad.

After some more research, there do seem to be what are known as "High Magnetic (HM)" circuit breakers available. Schneider Electric describes them as

High magnetic trip circuit breakers are recommended for
applications where high initial inrush may occur and for
individual dimmer applications.

One such device would be the QO120HM Miniature Circuit Breaker. I couldn't find a trip curve for this device, but rumor has it the instantaneous trip function may not kick in until 20-30 times the rated current (400-600 amperes for a 20 ampere breaker). However, I don't think these are applicable to your situation, since there's no way the saw should draw 400 amperes when starting (or at any time for that matter, unless there's a short-circuit).


Can I repair a broken overhead door opener drive gear?

The pictured sprocket looks fine to me. You must mean either the internal plastic sprocket or worm gear. They are available for replacement from major brands.


R and C are your power wires. W is for heat and G is for fan. Cables come with multiple wires in the bundle. The rest are just extra for future use like if you added air conditioning you would use the yellow wire usually. Orange if you were to add a heat pump and so on. Or if one of the wires were to break you could use one of the other ones.


How to even floor varnish without sanding the whole floor

You should sand those thick spots including some of thin spots. If your shoemarks are size 5x5", lightly sand around such as 10x10" and re-varnish again all over the sanded area. You'll even it out.


Turn the breaker off, pull the range out, and unplug it.  Remove the access panel on the back (if there is one), and inspect the wiring where the cord attaches to the range. My guess is that you'll see one of the wires is disconnected, and/or one or more wires are charred/melted.

This is a fairly common problem, as I described in this answer. Depending on the amount of damage, the repair could range anywhere from simply replacing the cord, to replacing/rewiring the range.


Adding additional outlet - max wires and box size?

Read inside the box.  If you install 14 AWG conductors to the new box, instead of 12 AWG conductors. You'd need at least a 22 cu.in. Box, or a 3" x 2" x 3 1/2" device box.

8 for current carrying conductors.
1 for grounding conductors.
2 for device fill.

11 total, times 2.00 cu.in. for 14 AWG conductors = 22 cu.in.

However, since you're using 12 AWG, the calculation looks like this...

6 for 14 AWG conductors x 2.00 cu.in. (12 cu.in).
2 for 12 AWG conductors x 2.25 cu.in. (4.5 cu.in).
1 for grounding conductors x 2.25 cu. in. (2.25 cu.in.).
2 for device fill x 2.25 cu.in. (4.5 cu.in.).

Total = 23.25 cu.in.

For more information on box fill, check out this answer

As for connecting the new wire. There should be no problem attaching it to the receptacle. However, since you're using 12 AWG conductors, you'll have to use the screw terminals.

If you want to do pigtails, you can. I know some guys don't like the backstab connections, so if you want to avoid using them you can do pigtails. Ideal 76B® Red Wire-nut® Wire Connectors are rated for 2 to 5 #14 conductors, but check with the manufacturer of the connectors you're using.  Again, if you're going to do this, you'll want to use #14 conductors instead of the #12 you've installed.


Do I need AFCI protection on new lighting circuits or just for outlets?

You may be thinking of GFCI, whose purpose is to protect humans from shocks, and is mostly relevant on receptacles.

The purpose of AFCI is to protect structures from bad wiring by tripping when wires arc from a bad connection.   That is relevant anywhere there is wiring.   In fact, it's a pretty good substitute for rewiring buildings with problem wiring, such as really old houses or those with aluminum.  They would not be useless on lighting circuits.

Anyway, NEC 2014 requires AFCI for all outlets in bedrooms and many other habitable rooms.   The word "outlet" in NEC connotes any appliance that is served by electricity, including installed laods like lights, smart switches and the like.  This applies to new construction and remodels, not minor work.

In my opinion, the urgency for AFCIs in new construction largely relates to builders' love of very cheap parts and wiring methods, and I'm specifically talking about backstabs.  Though receptacles which wholesale for 38 cents each aren't helping.

You can haggle with your AHJ (the inspector) about whether AFCIs are needed for a panel upgrade.  I would want to add AFCIs because it would mean I would then feel comfortable not replacing the old wiring.


Pulled a lot of stuff from Bath tub drain, now the clog is even worse!

I have found (over many years and snaking hundreds of drains) that the ability to get past a bend in the line is directly related to your technique (read, experience) and the tool you are using.
Cheap cables are prone to flex too much and are difficult to get around some bends, especially if you've kinked it (although I keep a few cheap ones, I call them "noodles", for specific times when I need a soft cable). Also the cable size matters, small cable for small drain, larger cable for larger drain.
I highly recommend that you invest in a commercial quality auger with a cable that has a stiffening element in the core, like this:

I have owned the same one for >25 yrs. and have never encountered a home branch line (tub, shower, sink) that I could not successfully clear with it.


How serious is a badly kinked suction line on a split system A/C?

A kink in the line starves the system and it should be pumped down cut out and a 45 or 90 put in its place. If it did not matter they would not use a line that much larger On the suction side.


There's no single answer, since it depends on the expected load. Use a calculator like this one


If, after completely cured, the paint still exhibits the same poor adhesion characteristics, you will unfortunately have to scrape or strip all areas that are unsound (probably the entire coating). You must then properly prepare the surface (sand, sand, sand) then repaint.


Can you break a black iron fitting by overtightening?

Yes, you can break cast iron fittings from over-tightening but you rarely do. That said, if you use teflon tape on cast iron fittings, they tend to break more often. Years ago, I learned that the use of teflon tape for the threads of an oil burner pump will easily break the pump's casting. (found that out on a very expensive pump). My only question is; are you sure that you have cast iron fittings and not black iron fittings (malleable iron) which are more common?


Is it possible to reuse a copper pipe's compression fitting?

If it hasn't been tightened many times, it should be okay to reuse.

Clean off the mating faces thoroughly and don't use tape, putty, or anything else.  And don't be gentle tightening:  The seal is formed by forcing the surfaces together and "bending" them to mate.

Even with threaded steel pipes, it can take a day or two for the tightened fittings to form a good seal and they can drip at first.  The essential observation is whether the drip rate slows hour by hour—if it does, it is probably okay and going to seal.

If it doesn't drip more slowly, try tightening a little more with water pressure applied until two consecutive small turns (1/8 turn) doesn't immediately decrease the drip rate.


Mildewed carpeting, uninsulated flooring

The problems you describe are likely on the outside of the building. I'm willing to bet the landlord is unaware of this, or they are simply unwilling to fix it. This likely isn't fixable by you.

The moisture is coming through the concrete. Concrete is porous, so it will wick water from the surrounding soil naturally. To help prevent this process, basements are typically surrounded by a weeping tile. This is how the outside of the building basement should work

In new construction, this is corrugated pipe with a sleeve to minimize dirt, but in older buildings this was literally clay tile. So, what happens over time is this tile can break (it's ceramic), blocking the weepers. There's no way to find this out, except to excavate the outside wall and look at it. (image source)

My bet is

The weepers are broken
The wall has no waterproofing
The ground does not slope away from the building (you can confirm this visually)

Repairing this is not cheap, obviously. It's not surprising that it was ignored if it was known about.

If the joists are spongy, it means they've absorbed a lot of water. I'm surprised it hasn't attracted termites yet. This could be making the apartment structurally unsound if it has been an ongoing problem. Even if there are no termites, the wood may begin to rot.

The only thing you can try yourself is a dehumidifier. But if the room is humid enough to wet the floors and joists, a dehumidifier will likely be overwhelmed very quickly (you will have to empty the collected water frequently). The owner should call in a foundation waterproofing company to excavate the basement walls, water proof them, install new weeping tiles, and slope the ground away from the structure.


What cement board can I use for an outdoor bbq?

Edited to remove ANY subjectivity:

HardieBacker is made from wood (cellulose fibers) and cement and carries a limited warranty for exterior use and only in certain climate zones. See HardieBacker's 10-Year Limited Warranty for Exterior Use

Durock is made from cement and fiberglass mesh. Wonderboard and others are made similar to Durock.

Subjectivity Here:

Obviously, there is a reason for the substantial difference in warranty between interior and exterior applications. My belief is that the cellulose will eventually break down from the shifting between warm humidity/ and freezing temperatures, especially in applications that would limit the ability for the product to appropriately air out. Durock is cement and fiberglass, and while both products will react to hot/cold like poured concrete, I would prefer the product that does not use wood. Given that they cost about the same, I would rather use something that the manufacturer expects to be able to withstand the 10-year warranty, over one that doesn't expect it to in nearly half the U.S.

But again, that is my subjective opinion.


Hot Water line Clogs only in Kitchen Sink

Most likely it is shavings and debris from the cutting the guy did into the waterline.

You should turn off the water supply valves and disconnect the water lines from the faucet but not from the valves (  do the cold even though it hasn’t given you problems just for peace of mind ).

Get a bucket and put the end of the supply lines that were attached to the faucet into the bucket and hold onto them while you open the valve and bleed the system for about a minute. ( Open the valves slowly there will be quite a bit of pressure)

Before you reattach the supply lines to the  faucet  open both the cold and the hot on the faucet, take the aerator out and try to blow backwards through the faucet to blow any debris that might still be left inside the faucet back out.

Reassemble the faucet reattach the supply lines and see how she goes.


Is there a freezing-water-resistant metal pipe?

A common device used in the US (and required by some building codes) is a water outlet that is long so that turning off the water allows the portion exposed to the elements to dry out.  These are called "Frost-free" or "freeze proof", etc.:

They come in different lengths, and the actual valve is all the way to the right of this picture where the copper meets the brass.  This causes the entire valve to drain so no water is exposed to outside temperatures.  The actual water pipes will be well inside the wall of the home and will generally not be exposed to freezing temperatures.

Here is another diagram to help explain from this answer:


Central air compressor fan reflects sunlight into house. What can I do about it?

------------Edit -----------

Another idea which may be applicable , and avoid performing a paint , is using a piece of 3M membrane like this

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_EU/3MGraphics/GraphicSolutions/Products/Catalogue/?N=5799&rt=c3

------initial answer---------

I think that it is not appropriate to paint a brand new piece of equipment , painted with electrostatic paint and perfectly finished, for both the aesthetic part and for potential warranty issues.
If I had this problem I would order from a blacksmith a small shelter skeleton and I would put a polycarbonate sheet as a roof (this can be done by a carpenter as well without the need a the polycarbonate sheet).
To get a better idea here is a picture of the concept :

You will of course use  a much smaller size to cover only the unit.


Condensation on just 1 duct in unfinished basement

If the ducts do not have sealed air spaces at top and bottom when the ducts get cold the air around it becomes cold.  Cold air is denser and heavier so it drops, pulling in fresh humid air from the attic or other airspace. As the air cools with the moisture condensing on the duct and it starts all over again.
Sealing the areas the ductwork goes up the walls at both ends is important and may be the root cause .
Your HVAC guy is a hack no one is perfect but they all say that. You just need to isolate any air flow and this is a common issue with multi story homes. The insulation is usually installed after the ductwork and sheetrock so they may not have sealed the chase but your hvac guy should have known this and told you to make sure the verticals shafts were sealed.


Can anyone identify this shower door rubber gasket?

Try searching this Pemko Catalog. I think they are the largest manufacturer of weatherstripping, etc.
https://absupply.net/pdf/PemkoFullCatalog2012.pdf
If you find something close, you can get it (or order it) through your local lumber yard. Amazon has some of the most popular styles, sizes, etc. too.


Do I need to add a cardboard barrier around drain pipe before adding concrete

I have used cardboard and styrofoam around pipes this helps in several ways and I would recommend at a minimum some heavy paper stock or cardboard and grease to allow for movement in desert or high temp zones. Just guessing based on the photo. No high water issues it is best to allow movement.


Why are steam radiators used in the USA?

The US has a mixture of systems. I'm not sure what the prevalence is, but I've lived in homes with both steam and hot water heating.

Steam offers the following advantages:

One-pipe systems
More heat transfer for a given radiator surface
No distribution pumps

Steam offers the following drawbacks:

Furnace needs to be a low point
Corrosion
Finicky distribution

Modern installations tend to favor hot water. The New England region has a legacy of steam heat that stems from coal furnaces and basements. Those systems were selected a century ago, and refit would require replacing the entire system. Steam was the leading technology in New England during its greatest period of growth.

Further, New York City had a substantial influence in the area with its district steam heat operations. Also, another good article that discusses steam legacy, why replacement is a bear, and how steam works in general.

Finally, in large distribution environments, there's the high pressure factor. If you need to move a lot of heat energy, you can do so space-efficiently with high pressure steam (smaller pipes). Harvard's Blackstone Steam Plant heats over 160 buildings and drives a 5 megawatt turbine. At larger scales like this, the thermal loss at the chimney is far lower than the combined loss that would be had from running at sub-boiling temperatures.


You might get away with unscrewing the spout, cleaning the threads on both the spout and faucet with a brass brush (just to clear any accumulated crud, especially if you have hard water), wrapping the threads with thread tape, then tightening it back on.
If that doesn't fix it, odds are good that you'd have to replace the whole faucet. I'm not sure where you're located, but that type of faucet isn't common at all in the US and wouldn't be available at a large home-improvement center type of store. You might be able to find something similar at an actual plumbing supply house. They may have something in a commercial line that would fit. If you go that route, either remove the faucet from the wall and bring it in with you, or take good pics with a measuring tape across the top of the plumbing stub-outs so they can help you find something with the right spacing.


The oven in my range has stopped heating up, but the burners still work

I assume this is a recent model without a pilot light. And by recent I mean not ancient. There will be an electric heating element that glows white hot to ignite the gas. It can burn out. You might actually be able to see it glow if you look hard while the oven is lighting if it is working. Then again it could be electrical or mechanical.


replacing tub surround: pros and cons glue-up vs direct-to-stud?

Pros:

Glue up

wall is flatter, less variance, less warping
generally easier to install (once prepped/drywall up)
if going drywall underneath less echo/tin can sound
on a direct install you must be able to pack the cavity with insulation to prevent push-in and (more) echoes, glue up you don't worry about that
transition to other parts of the bathroom is easy since drywall to drywall or drywall to backer is really no transition

Direct

Can have it installed very quickly (no prep)
don't have to worry about water affecting what is behind it
the more expensive ones have good transition molding that allows you to install drywall after with small seam to be caulked.


How to prepare a wall with drywall for painting after wallpaper removal

Skim coat is more reliable than magic paint, but no direct experience with that particular flavor of magic paint, just seen lots of problems in general with magic paint and wallpaper residue.

The counterintuitive (at first) fastest (and thus cheapest when labor is a cost, however you count that cost) approach that's 100% reliable is to rock over it (you can use the thin stuff), or rip and replace the rock. Skim coating seems like it's less drastic, but can actually be a lot slower.


How should I go about connecting a switch's ground wire to this apparent grouping of ground wires?

The old dimmer is not properly connected to ground (an attempt was made, but it's not good workmanship...)
The grounding wires are crimped (which seems to be a popular method at some places and times for grounding wires, I assume because someone felt it saved 3 seconds per box or something) but the old dimmer grounding wire is not in the crimp, it's just jammed between the crimped wires.
If one or more of the grounding wires that are in the crimp stick out far enough on the other side of it you can use a wire-nut to properly connect your new dimmer's grounding wire. Can't see if that's the case since they appear to be behind the other switch in your pictures.
If not, you can cut off the crimp and use a wire nut to connect all the grounding wires and your new dimmer grounding wire.


Where can I find legitimate wood shed designs?

Take a look at your local Lowe's, Home Depot or even Amazon online book store.  They have several books with lots of different designs.  You can look them over and just buy the book that suits your needs.  They will have diagrams and material lists.  Also these books are fairly cheap.  Good luck.


Are butcher-block countertops appropriate for a very hot and humid climate?

In my opinion, wood is a very poor choice for kitchen counter tops. Any wood is dimensionally unstable to some extent, how much depends on several factors such as moisture content during installation and method of construction. It can be relatively stable or a complete disaster.

My main objection is wood is porous. Ideally, kitchen countertops should be impervious. Most materials have pores to some extent, but they should be as microscopic as possible. Wood pores are relatively gigantic. While oiling is helpful, wood will get stained from food and other products that come in contact with it. Some may say this gives it character, but to me, it just looks unsanitary.

Speaking of sanitary, despite the moniker 'butcher block', meat should never be processed on a wood surface. It is impractical to properly sanitize wood in the home. Chop all the fruits and vegetables you want on it, but only  cut meat on a dedicated impervious cutting board that can easily be sanitized.


Enamel Canned Spray Paint on interior trim?

Spray painting is fine and generally gives a smoother finish than brush or roller. But you need to fill nail holes, not just paint over the nailheads. Nails should be recessed. Either wood filler or painters caulk should be used in the nail holes. Once the filler is dry, you can spray a q-tip or a piece of paper towel and dab the surface.


Modifying Paul Logan's comment, use a close nipple  and cap , but instead of drill and tap, just drill a hole large enough in the cap to insert the stem from the socket - tight but don't damage the threads - then take a nut that fits the stem and attach it from the inside of the cap. If it's hard to tighten it, fiddle around with some washers sized appropriately.

You could also lock it down by using 2 nuts. Put the first one on all the way next to the one holding the stem onto the socket (in your pic), insert the stem into the cap, put the 2nd nut on getting it as far as possible inside the cap - finger tight is fine - then then tighten the first one on the outside. And bobs your uncle.


How do I connect outdoor security camera to a power source?

Power cord method

Have an electrician install a power receptacle within cord's reach of the camera
Route cord from camera to receptacke
Plug cord into camera
Plug power block into receptacle

Extension power cord method

Get a 12VDC extension cable with the right ends on it.
Run the extension cable with the ethernet cable, follow rules for Class II low voltage wiring
At the hub/switch end of the ethernet run, plug factory power block cable into extension cable
Plug power block into wall

PoE method (Power on Ethernet)

Return these/sell on Craigslist and get PoE cameras, or, get PoE extractors for this camera.
Run just ethernet cable to your router/hub.
Install PoE switch/hub as extension of, or to replace, your router
Plug ethernet cable into PoE hub


Samsung Washer WF218ANS-XAC troubleshooting help needed, smoke in the drum compartment

Your front loader drum unit will have a slightly different shaft and bearing system than my top loader drum washer. But I have had the bearings go out twice in 12 years in my unit. When the bearings go bad the high speed spin cycle sounds like a freight train is going through our house.

I had to purchase a couple of special tools but replacing the bearings was a fairly straightforward task albeit with many steps. So you may want to debug to see if it is the bearings in your washer that have gone bad.

Note I put your washer model number in to Google and got quite a few hits for manuals and parts lists.


Filling and recreating toilet bolts in concrete

You should be able to remove the ring and replace it. This is true for most steel rings but not necessarily for some plastic or brass rings. It is possible to add a stainless steel replacement ring over the top of the old ring if it's not already more than 1/4" proud of the floor. You should be able to find replacement rings and flange repair kits at your local hardware or builders supply store that will work for your specific situation.


Single light switch to programmable - 2nd hot line?

The black wire at the bottom of your diagram is the incoming hot feed and goes to all the switches.  If the timer switch has a terminal screw, hook it up to the new switch the same way it was done at the old.  If it has a pigtail lead, you'll have to cut the black wire and wirenut both the cut ends with the pigtail from the timer.  The blue wire or terminal on the timer goes to the other black wire (the non-doubletap one) going to the single switch, and the white wire or terminal on the timer needs to be connected to the bundle of white neutral wires at the back of the box -- you may need to use a length of scrap white wire as a pigtail for this.

Also, the weirdly wired 4-way switch is really a 3 way switch in disguise, and make sure the single black wire's loose end is capped off with a wirenut.


How can I temporarily secure a wooden countertop to its base with limited cabinet access?

Use figure-8 clips. Screw them into the frame overhanging the outer edge (they are usually done to the inside, but outside works fine, and only your friends who have reached "lying on the floor" will ever see them, and that, blurrily.)

You screw them down into the frame, up into the top. It's what they were made to do.
Alternatively, borrow, rent or buy a pocket-hole jig and put in new pocket holes on the outside of the frame (just like the ones you have now, on the inside of the frame) Once again, counter overhang should make them unobtrusive to anyone not lying on the floor.


What's the best material to use to fill in a 1/2" gap between drywall and stairs?

Typically a riser bracket is used, it would help if the stair return was longer but a piece of lattice cut to follow the zig-zag of the stair may work too.

EDIT 1-5-2016

Here is another angle....


How can I insulate my fireplace when it's not in use?

Similar to @BMitch's answer, I used a magnetic cover to cover the vent below my fireplace.  We found this was the primary cool air leak for our fireplace and I bet it is yours too.  It works great, and is very simple to remove before starting a fire.  Since it is black like the fireplace, it is not even noticed.  I bought one from this site selling the exact size I needed and in black.

Here is my fireplace with it on and removed.


For the sub panel sometimes you can get a better deal on a 150 amp panel your panel really cannot be two large.
Yes you will need a 4 wire feed but your main panel will dictate the size feeder wires , if I was doing this and could get a 125a breaker to feed my shop I would do it, however many panels will max out at 100 amp so size your feeder wiring on the size of your breaker.
The size of the sub panel is not the controlling factor it’s the breaker in the main that feeds the sub your sub has to be at least that big but going bigger is usually considered better.
Large feeders , most pros will pull aluminum no worry about voltage drop here and with large conductors conduit and individual conductors are the way to go the ground wire will be much smaller based on the size, yes the other conductors are based on size but grounds are a different table.
You also need a local grounding rod for the sub.
So go big on the sub panel even If you only want 80 amps, use conduit PVC is easy to cut and glue schedule 80 above ground 40 below ground,
IF you use a smaller wire size do your self a favor and over size your conduit 1-1/4” or 1-1/2” will make an easier pull with large aluminum and if you decide to go max size later it make using the existing conduit possible and a later upgrade simple.
Newer code mandates all receptacles to be GFCI protected.


Checking yonder google tells me that it's difficult and unwise for NiCd: http://www.powerstream.com/NiCd.htm, and unlikely to work for Lithium batteries unless you match the internal cells very carefully: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/126673/charging-li-ion-batteries-in-parallel.

Either one could be overcome, but not for the minimal expense of just buying a cheap lawn tractor battery from Walmart, and putting a trickle charger on it.


Will keeping the hot water running by accident cause any damage to the hot water heater

No significant damage, just a bit more wear and wasted fuel.


mud keeps drying and crumbling as i spread it on wall

If this is for a small home project stop with trying to mix drywall compound yourself and purchase the premixed material in the plastic bucket.


How to install new outdoor motion sensing light

You need to locate a junction box somewhere in the attic that has a hot wire (not a switch leg) and a neutral in it. Look close to an existing light fixture in a room close to where you want the exterior light(s). From there you can feed the motion-activated lights with NM cable (Romex) from the attic.

You can either cut boxes into the siding or mount surface boxes on the outside of the house. Whatever you feel comfortable with.

If the terminology is a bit confusing you should buy a book on basic wiring such as this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Step-Guide-Book-Home-Wiring/dp/0961920106/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450304277&sr=8-1&keywords=Home+wiring+step+by+step

Not an endorsement just a suggestion.


What finish could be applied to a wood project with paper on top to seal and preserve the paper without discoloration or damage

Epoxy.

I looked for, but could not find, a link to the special electrical fibre glass- it's aluminum oxide instead of silicon dioxide, made in a finer grid, and is practically transparent when soaked and placed on the surface. It's also used for boats/canoes and shows the would perfectly. It is not, however, 100% optically clear so would obscure fine detail.

If you want perfectly clear you'll want one of those countertop type epoxy, and there are plenty of videos on that out there.


If the existing opening is not large enough for the stairs dimensions you will need to enlarge the opening.  This work is for advanced DIY-er's that are comfortable with altering buildings' framing and than patching the sections that are modified.    It may be best if you search for folding stairs smaller or exactly of the dimensions the present opening measures.


Help making room on 200 amp panel for 50amp breaker

I would go with a larger panel, it looks like you could add another quad breaker since the existing panel is a 8-16 but you are out of space again, to save some $ I would add a sub and move some loads over to the sub and feed from this panel that would save some $ and require less rewiring and the need to bring everything up to current code that is usually required for a complete panel replacement. Personaly with the very small panel you have I would bite the bullet and replace it with a larger 40 or larger slot panel. It looks like the existing loads plus a new 50 you would probably be ok with a 200 but we would need to know the needs like what type heating, water heater and range / AC? Is used in the home.


Wire Gauge/Type for 100amp detached Shop?

If it were me I would probably run 4/0 and mount a 100amp double pole breaker to feed it in your main panel. I'd come out of the breaker with #2 copper and then use a barrel connector to transition to the 4/0 aluminum on each hot line..  Then go the 200 ft in a conduit. In theory you don't need it that thick but I bet you would appreciate the less flickery lights when you turn on heavy loads out there.. You could also do direct burial, they make service cable that is approved for burial and you get a higher rating when buried in dirt because it is basically water cooled. 600v insulation, etc. If you make that trade off you may get annoyed every time you kick on a motor on.  They make ul approved barrel connectors for the transition from #2 coper to 4/0 and aluminum and Home Depot carries them.  The county inspector approved this method for me. I would call your local inspector and ask him. They are often helpful for the Diy folks when not swamped. Try again in early mornings before they are about, and try more than one..

Jeff