How do I know if it is safe to remove a wall?

Check if the wall is load-bearing

See that link for how to do this.

Try to see if there are are any high-voltage lines in the wall

Look for light switches, receptacles, lights, hard-wired smoke detector
In some cases, a wire may run though the wall, but not be visible. This is very hard to determine, and takes sleuth work (look for wires entering the wall from floors above/below, and consider based on locations of other electrical if it's likely this wall is used to run wires). There are voltage detectors that MAY be able to detect the lines, but not guaranteed (though if they indicate, you know there's a line there for sure).

Check for low-voltage lines as well (cable, phone, internet, doorbell, HVAC, speakers).

These are probably even harder to find than high-voltage lines unless there is something on the wall that gives it away. Accidentally cutting one of these is a pain, but not nearly as dangerous or life-threatening as a high-voltage line.

Check for plumbing

This can include hot/cold water, waste lines and vent lines.
Waste plumbing works on gravity, and so it will usually take the shortest route. Find bathrooms/sinks and the main waste lines in the house, and see if this wall falls between them.
Supply plumbing is hard to detect unless there is a fixture on the wall. Requires some sleuth work.

Check for air ducts

Relatively easy to determine: if there is a vent on the wall or you can see duct work connecting to it (cavities inside walls are often used as vertical ducts)
Can be a bit harder to find if it's used as a riser to connect horizontal runs between two floors. If it's above/below the main duct run then it's possible.
If you remove a wall without re-running vents, you may be cutting off the supply or return to an area of your house, which can reduce air quality and comfort.

Central vac pipes

Generally the rule is to try and avoid as many turns as possible, and avoid going up towards the vacuum. Same idea as finding waste lines: find the vacuum and the wall ports, and if this wall is in the most direct path between them it's likely to have lines. You may also be able to hear them, especially if you put your ear against the wall and have someone suck up a small pebble or something noisy (but that won't damage the vacuum).

Gas lines

Pretty unlikely to find gas running through the middle of a wall (especially one you're considering tearing out) but it's still a possibility.
Again, if the wall is the most direct route between the gas source, and the appliance (consider: water heaters, furnace, oven, BBQ), it's possible

In a commercial structure, the wall may be a fire wall (there will be doors on auto-closers separating this area from all others if this is the case - though check with your local fire department or building inspector).

Of course, even if you are fairly confident there is nothing in the wall, don't just pull out the sawzall and tear through it - put some holes in it first to visually inspect for anything you might have missed. Most people will take all the drywall off at least one side before touching studs, as it gives that total check that everything is good to go.


Neutrals and Grounds tied together in the panel?

no no no, bad idea.

Anytime you twist 2 wires together, you make them better connected to each other than what they're attaching to.  That sets the stage for a spectacular, lethal failure.

Also, the neutral bars are not rated for 2 neutral wires per hole!

So, this combo has trouble with its connection to the bar. Now, power returning on neutral can't get back to neutral, and floats at 120V.  Worse, it connects itself to safety ground, so now all your grounds are floating at 120V.

Now, in a main panel, neutral and ground bars will be bonded to each other.  So it isn't wrong to have neutrals and grounds landing on the same bar.  But they must never be in the same holes because the panel labeling says 1 neutral per hole.  Some panels allow 3 grounds per hole, but they don't need to be twisted together.  Again if the ground twist group lost contact, they would only share ground faults - another hazardous situation.

I don't know what goes through people's heads. Obviously these Romex monkeys get it in their head that "neutral and ground are the same thing" so who cares, and they think they're putting flair in their work I guess because they're bored.

Probably the best fix here is to get a separate accessory ground bar, fit that, and move grounds over to it as able.  That will also prepare the house for AFCI or GFCI breakers.  AFCI are a good idea with older wiring. Ironically, Code requires them for newer wiring!


Is it safe to daisy-chain power bars (power strips)?

Yes but only if the total power drawn is less than the rated capacity of the source and the ratings of the power bars.

So you cannot exceed the power rating of source, bar 1 or bar 2.

I thought this was worth a diagram:

I assumed 15A just as an example, respect the ratings and regulations for your locality. I also assumed all bars and source are rated at 15A...

If bar 1 is only rated at 10A then that is the limit so the bottom 3 examples will have to change so that the bar 2 uses less...


Is this masonry roofline intersection problematic? Should it be called out by our home inspector?

Is this truly a brick veneer wall (one full brick deep), or an "adhered" brick veneer (1/4" - 1/2" thick)?  A brick veneer wall should definitely have visible flashing, counter-flashing, and weep holes, but an adhered veneer might just have flashing behind the joint.  I do see that the roof bulges along the joint, this is a good sign that there is something there, but it does not look like proper flashing.  There should also be flashing visible below the adhered veneer. (see http://ncma-br.org/pdfs/masterlibrary/MVMA%20Installation%20Guide%204th%20Edition%20web.pdf pages 28,29,36).


The terminal circled in red should be labeled HUM-H, which is the humidifier (hot) terminal. This terminal is energized to 120 V when the system is running in heating mode.

The terminal circled in blue is EAC-N, which is the electronic air cleaner neutral.  This terminal should be tied to the other neutral terminals, as well as the system neutral.

If you move the humidifier transformer wire from HUM-H to EAC-H, the humidifier will run whenever the fan is on. However, this also includes when the system is in cooling mode, which is not recommend.

What you could do, is install an override switch, which will allow you to manually turn off the humidifier during the cooling season. So you'd run a wire from the EAC-H terminal, to one side of the switch. Then connect the humidifier transformer wire, to the other side of the switch. This way when the switch is closed, the humidifier will run with the fan. But when the switch is open, the humidifier will not run.

If you don't want a manual switch, you could mess around with a relay or other control circuitry.

Using a relay, it could be wire up like this.

That way the humidifier will run whenever the fan is running, except when the thermostat is calling for cool.


My cold water tank, has one inch of brown sludge at the bottom, what should I do

It is hard to say what the sludge is without examining it.  If light is able to get in and if the water stagnates alot instead of flowing, it could be organic.  If that is the case, I would boost the chlorine level.  Also, a water softener would reduce the mineral content of the water, which would reduce all sludge, organic or not.  Also, check the pH of your water to make sure it is not too acidic or basic.  If so report to your water supplier utility.  My understanding is they are supposed to provide neutral pH water.  If they don't remedy, add appropriate chemicals to neutralize pH.

If you can detach and remove tank, do so.  Once detached, If you can get a filler brush in there go ahead and brush off the bottom.  Get some vinegar and baking soda or any commercial grade non-toxic solvent (Puriclean or Milton) in there and agitate the tank.  Back wash several times with hot water and repeat procedure  until all sludge is gone.

For in situ situations, here are how different people did it at this forum:

If you can get the end of a hosepipe through the inlet, with a high pressure spray fitting on the end, just wiggle and poke it around and then mop out the residue with a rag/hand pump.

or

a stick with a ball of cloth on the end then lots of rinsing.

or

by putting a little sharp sand in plus some water and sloshing it all about


Why is my freshly applied paint coming off on the roller?

When your roller lifts the existing coat of paint from the wall surface it indicates that the wall was not prepared correctly or possibly something is affecting the bond to the wall (like moisture or heat).
Although the newly primed paint isn't pealing off the wall it would be wise to check that it has a good bond. Use a putty knife to try and scrape the paint from the wall. It should not come away if it has a good bond to the wall.
If it does scrape away continue scraping until it doesn't. Verify the primer has dried securely to the wall.
Sanding the walls wont help if the problem is with the original paint not being applied to a clean surface. The problem is contaminants preventing a proper hold from the paint.
Dulux is a very good paint brand. Check the label for any "warnings" the manufacturer may have.


BBQ: Add Propane Connection with Y Connector

Propane and Butane bottles at least here (Italy) have the exact same bolt-type connector or the vendor-specific 'fast' connector. I suggest you to buy an adjustable regulator :
so you can increase or decrease gas pressure upon your needs.
To see if pressure is correct just look at the flame, it has to be blue without orange tips, if you see most flames turning orange you have to decrease the pressure if flames are 'sad' you can pump it little up.


How can I temporarily support a PVC pipe in use as a delivery mechanism?

I'd use whatever stool or chair you have around at the low end, and a stepladder or similar at the high end, possibly just leaning against the exterior wall outside the door. Cable ties, string, or duct tape would secure the pipe well. A little weight on low rungs could add stability.
I love this idea and may borrow it myself (or some Rube Goldbergian variation). A sign on the street promising "no contact" and that "we wear gloves" might add a level of comfort. Of course, I'll still don my Pennywise costume (with balloons) and emerge from the shadows alongside for a sweet/sour thrill on the turnaround.
By the way, a 4" pipe is huge and heavy (unless you use the thin-wall sewer pipe, but it's still larger than you need). 3" is probably just fine, and for your specific candy 2" would probably do. You might even get away with 1-1/2" thin-wall central vacuum pipe.


If the two sockets were bought from the same branch of B&Q i'd bet on a faulty batch, possiblly combined with a marginal design. My advice would be to return the socket as faulty and replace with one of a different brand.


All grounds count 1. (per @ThreePhaseEel's comment, more than 4 are now 1/4 count each as of NEC2020)
One yoke device (the outlet) is 2
6 wires terminating in the box are 6
If there are cable clamps in the box, those count as 1. If they are outside the box, they don't count.
14Ga so 2 cubic inches per count.
So: 18 or 20 cubic inches. Pigtails (wires that don't leave the box) are free. Wires count the same if they terminate on a wire nut or terminate on a device.  Your box isn't big enough, you are correct about that. A box can be legit and still be hard to pack in (the free things are not really free that way) but the box you have is not legit as wired.
Side note. Using the backstabs is highly dubious and frowned upon by anyone who has removed a half-melted device using them, or actually had a fire started by them. How they ever got approval is beyond me. Use the side screw clamps or devices that have a screw clamp on a different type of back wire entry.


Using non-metallic cable with this metal box having armored cable attached?

You can't use Romex. You need AC cable.

Your jurisdiction does not allow the use of Romex cable for electrical wiring. Romex is a brand name of a type of plastic cable called NM-B.

I'm well aware that the Internet is full of instructables and videos that say to use Romex.  This is a cheaper wiring method that is not allowed in your town, for reasons.

This is obvious from the builder's use of AC type armored cable and backstabs.  The AC type with steel boxes is a deluxe wiring method the builder would not have used if it wasn't compelled by law.

If you have any doubts, go talk to your city's permit issuing office and ask them about wiring requirements there.

But I only know Romex, I don't know anything about AC cable

It's not that big a deal. You use AC cable obviously. The cable clamps appear to be built in to the existing metal box. You'll need to make a bottom entry because all the top holes are full, then loop upward.

So you'll need to get a metal box that has AC cable clamps built in.  The local electrical supply house can help.  If you bought from the local big-box, you can try there but their advice is terrible, so don't rely on clerks.  If you wonder why they're consistently terrible, it's because electricians and electrical supply houses constantly troll the big-box stores looking for competent clerks, and hire them away.


Standard 15A circuit breaker trips randomly under no load

Even though you call them CBs, I'm trusting that you know the difference between a plain breaker and a GFCI/AFCI.  If your breaker has a TEST button, this advice is no good.

The usual reason for this, particularly in a lighting circuit, is a ground hitting a hot wire/screw, typically on a switch - switches can shift when you operate them.  It's either hitting the bare ground wire in the box, or it's hitting the side of a metal box. *

So if you remember a flash or sudden failure when you operated a switch, that's the first place to look.

One thing we often see is people using backstab connections. Those are a lazy shortcut used by builders in a hurry, but they provide generally poor connections.  Those cause opens not shorts, so they aren't directly responsible for this. But it using backstabs means they didn't use the screws, and often the screws are left in the full, all-the-way-out** position.  These are much more likely to snag a ground wire or hit the side of the box.

Once the screws are down (preferably with the wires under them and tightened to torque), you can avert further trouble by wrapping electrical tape around the perimeter of the switch (or receptacle) so the screws are covered up.  I do that to make them safer to handle.

Another way hot wires trip is when they are wearing their "Daisy Dukes", that is, when the wire is stripped too much for the backstab, and leaving exposed conductor for a ground wire to find. That is bad workmanship, but then, so are backstabs generally :)

* Metal boxes are very much your friend.  They provide a better safety shield for the wiring, they conduct heat away from hotspots so they stay too cool to start a fire, and (annoying though this may be right now) they assure trips in cases like this instead of leaving a problem to smolder. We've had people tear them out and go plastic in cases like this, but that's just hiding the symptom.

** screws have a detent/stop to keep them captive.  It damages the threads to unscrew them any further.  For screw-to-clamp types, it will make the anvil fall off, and the receptacle is scrap at that point!


What should I consider when cutting/making window in concrete foundation?

I realize that you don't want to proceed with the project but I thought I'd answer anyway in case someone else is curious. I am a licensed contractor and my company specializes in basement remodeling; we have done several window expansions or additions in concrete foundations. A few things:

You definitely need a permit for this project (though you don't need to hire a contractor) this is a structural modification and needs to be done correctly.
You definitely need a structural engineer to write you a letter after a site inspection stating his recommendations for keeping the structural integrity (when you get a permit, they'll require this any way.
If you are making a bedroom in the area you are adding a window to, you'll want to make sure that the new window you put in meets egress code for inspection/permit reasons.

Though you can support the new opening with pressure treated wood (according the engineers prescription, of course), most likely the engineer will recommend a steel frame in the newly cut opening. We use a 4"x4"x1/4" steel frame that the engineer signs off on. You can have one made to fit your opening at your local steel fabricator. (see pic below)

After you install the frame with bolts into the concrete and silicone sealant around the entire perimeter, the installation of the window is a piece of cake.


Outside lamp has ground, no ground, no metal box.

Definitely put a GFCI upstream on this circuit. That will (barring a failure of the GFCI) protect humans from electrocution regardless of grounding.

Having unsheathed wires running through that frame and poking out for the fixtures could be a problem, though. Is that NM cable, or just a couple of single wires? The wires are supposed to be in a manufactured sheath (NM cable) or conduit, and I'm pretty sure holes drilled in a wooden frame don't count as conduit.

Can you pull new NM cable through the frame to include a ground wire?

Don't just screw a light fixture straight down to the wood frame. If you screw pancake boxes down to the frame (pictured), then you can attach the lighting fixtures to the pancake boxes in the normal way. If you can get a grounding wire in there, you would ground the box, and also ground the lighting fixture if it has a separate green grounding wire. The metal base of the fixture would also be grounded through the screw connection to the pancake box.

You also need to use a an appropriate cable clamp. One option is pictured, suitable for NM cable, and you would clip this into the pancake box from the back side so that the whole thing would still be flat enough to screw down to that wood frame, without having to auger the holes out bigger.


Repairing a notched rafter in a truss roof

Roof trusses tend to be highly engineered and not designed to be altered, and I don't consider myself knowledgeable enough to know exactly how dangerous this is. My suspicion is that you've reduced the possible load your roof can support which would be an issue in strong windows for heavy snow.

The typical solution is to sister another board onto this one. To transfer the load, you'd want it fairly long, several feet to each side, the longer the better. Put some construction adhesive on the current rafter, clamp the sistered board on tight, and screw it with a bunch of 2.5" screws (I'd probably put one every 8" with 2 on each end). That's likely over engineered, but you're better off overdoing the solution than underdoing it and having it fail later.


Stapling NM cable to panel backboard on the side of the service panel. Any NEC 2017/2020 concerns?

NM cable requires protection normally below 8’ some jurisdictions allow 7’ it is not specifically listed in code.
Since your feeder also requires protection I would suggest boxing it in code allows 1/2” Sheetrock or plywood to be used for protection.
if the flexible metal above is metal clad it would be ok if armor clad or flexible metal conduit it would also need protection. When I run into this I will attach 2x4’s then screw a piece of plywood to the 2x4 , so it can be removed.
I like plywood in this case an upside L would provide all the protection required. A short piece of 2x4 on the right and a longer one on the left then there would be no problems as the wiring would be protected.


Why is there no neutral in a switch box?

Up until just a few years ago, the neutral was not required at a switch location.

A standard switch loop consisted of the hot feed to the switch, the switched return leg, and a ground wire. With non-metallic cable you have a black wire, a white wire, and a bare wire for ground. The National Electrical Code requires that the feed to the switch be the white wire re-identified as any other color but white or gray. So, with cable, you would then have a black wire, another black wire (a white wire with black tape on it since that is what the electrician carries all the time), and the bare ground wire.

If you had conduit running to the switch box then they would just pull two black wires for the switch loop, and a green for ground.

The Code now requires a neutral at most switch locations which is usually a white wire but could also be gray. This was not the case when your wiring was installed and is still not required if the installation uses conduit.

So, your switch box most likely had one black for a hot feed, another black for return to a load (fan, light etc.), and a red for return to aother load. And of course the green ground wire.

It will work the way you have it but one of the wires is extra.

Good luck!


Sub-panel with single ground and common bar - with a twist

This is related to what is known as separately derived systems and non separately derived systems, and it concerns avoiding unnecessary impedance on the grounding system that would adversely effect over current protection, i.e., breakers and fuses.

If the neutral is switched along with the phase conductors in the transfer switch, you have a separately derived system and you would NOT separate the grounds and neutrals in the generator only, which contains the main over current device "main breaker". You WOULD separate the grounds and neutrals in the sub-panel. Again, this is because the main over current device, "main breaker" is contained outside in the generator.

So, in your condition the generator is portable and thus does not fall under the permanently installed generator rules.  But if it were, you would want to separate the grounds and neutrals at the generator and sub panel and be done with it.

To address your main question whether your current setup is safe.  As mentioned above you ideally want the lowest impedance for ground fault protection.  But by not separating the grounds and neutrals in the sub panel you are creating MORE impedance.


Possible source of dripping from bathroom exhaust fan?

If installing an insulated duct does not get rid of the leakage problem you might try changing the exhaust fan with one with a greater efficiency to push out the warm moist air out faster. The CFM rating should not be less than the square footage of your bathroom ceiling. To be sure your fan blower is adequate, I would use a fan with a rating 20% greater than the recommended CFM for your bathroom size. Also pay attention to the sone level. Get one with a rating of 2 or less if at all possible. Finally, if you don't want the fan to operate longer than necessary replace fan wall switch with a timer switch.


Blocking the light from a window that spans up to the ceiling

If you want a complete solution for the whole window, or want to block the light just at the top, you can tape aluminum foil on the whole window or just at the top of the glass.  I did that once in a room that got so much sun that it was always too hot.  It took the temperature down about 10 degrees.


How do I hang a new wooden gate so that it automatically stays closed when it is shut but also stays open at its maximum open span?

If the hinges are on the same vertical line, then (as noted by @DA01) the hinge should stay wherever you leave it (absent wind, etc). If the hinges aren't vertically aligned, then the gate will want to swing towards a specific point. You can use this to solve your problem.

Imagine that the gate is swinging on a rod, and can go 360° around the rod. If the rod is vertical then you can put the gate anywhere you want and it will stay. However, if the rod is leaning towards a certain direction, then the gate will tend to swing until it is pointing in that direction (because the gate will be lower at that point).

What if you move the gate to the exact other side of the rod from where it wants to go? It will sit there, balanced. If you then move it in either direction it will continue to swing in that direction until it reaches its low point.

So, what you want to do with your gate is to align the hinges so that the hinge line leans away from the the middle of the gate's range (at 45°). That way the gate will tend to swing away from the 45° point, towards the nearer of 0° and 90°.

Edit: When you do this, you may have to readjust the position of the gate on its hinges in order to have the gate properly fit into its opening. But, once you adjust the post side of the hinges to get the right swing, changes to the gate side of the hinges won't affect the swing, so you won't have to readjust anything.


Just use an appropriately sized wire nut. Which is what you should also do for the black (switched hot) and white (neutral) connections.


Why would outside air come out a furnace intake?

When the furnace blower stops, the forced airflow stops. What you are feeling is the air remaining in the return ductwork as it cools and sinks. That's why you feel it at the lowest return register. Your idea of a one-way flapper valve made from paper is good. It will keep the calm cooling air from sinking. Be sure to minimize any resistance to air flow during normal operation.


14 Gauge wire on a 20Amp breaker is a clear code violation if you are in the USA, at least. It needs to be replaced with 12 Gauge minimum.


Is it safe to ground a pump house using the water line?

Short answer: This is a violation of the National Electrical Code.

Long answer: The Code has always required the grounding of metallic parts that may become energized. Your circuit to the pump house should contain an equipment grounding conductor. Residential systems have a voltage level that qualify under the systems that must be grounded in Article 250.20. A water pipe does not qualify as an equipment grounding conductor under Article 250.118.

If a ground fault occurs the water pipe will become energized.

Have it corrected at your earliest convenience.


Using 30amp rv outlet to power small shop

Assuming that the RV power outlet is 240V, then when you build or buy your building, put in a small load center with a 30A Main Breaker with separate circuits for the building outlets. That way you can't overload the RV outlet and it gives you the required individual circuit protection for your building. I have that exact same setup for a small office building on my property.


I would just use a standard air conditioning condenser relay rated for 30 amps or more to start with. Make sure it is rated for horsepower larger than your compressor. (To really calculate the inrush current you need the code letter from the motor nameplate under the LRA or locked rotor current. Then see Table 430.7(B) in the NEC. Multiply your horsepower by the number from the table and divide by one thousand. See this article here.)

Or just start with an A/C relay like I said above and if it wears out fairly quickly you could spend much more money for a higher rated motor contactor. An A/C relay probably costs $30 or less.

The other thing to consider is when you decide to upgrade your compressor, make sure it is a two-stage compressor. A two stage starts the motor unloaded and then engage the compressor after the motor is running. This significantly reduces the inrush current to the motor since it is starting unloaded. The single stage style is required to start with the compressor under pressure and consequently requires a large inrush current.

Good luck and stay safe!


Why won't a LED bulb work in a standard light fixture?

I found the answer! @diceless set me on the right track in looking at where the foot of the bulb is connecting to the fixture.

Since it was an older fixture (installed in the 80's, I think), the hot contact (Number 1 in this diagram ) was bent down, and it was connecting with the smaller bulb but not the bigger LED bulb.

With the circuit turned off at the breaker I reached in with a wooden tongue depressor and bent it upwards slightly. Then, I made sure to screw the LED bulb in tightly. Flicking the switch it was bright as day!


Why does my central heating system comes on on its own accord?

If your system also heats your domestic hot water, it may be coming on to maintain the hot water temperature.   Depending on the setup, you may be getting some hot water circulation through the radiators when this happens.    Is the radiator system steam, or hot water?   If it's hot water, can you tell of one or more of the circulators come on when the boiler runs?


This sounds like you may not have completed the programming successfully.

Usually both remotes, old and new, need to be programmed together and you cannot just add one. So the fact that one remote has continued to work gives the indication that the programming did not complete.

I suggest you check the instructions are correct for the unit and try again.


How did the system perform back in '96 or at least on a good charge? Ideally someone preformed all the necessary 'manuals' and it was the correct size to use. I lived in a 1700 sf apartment that was always a little hot until we switched out a 2.5 for 3. It all depends on your heat gain: windows, drafts, insulation, lighting, appliances, humans.... If you are not going to pay an arm and a leg for a professional calculation, I would charge it up one last time and see how it preforms on a nice hot day and then decide if its undersized or just neglected. Charging it back up would cost less than a full load calculation I would think. Or just go with a 3 ton. Although the problems can be just as bad with an over-sized unit, they are much less prone to present themselves then in an under-sized unit. It may cost more to operate but it will work as opposed to it almost works.


While you do not have enough loading information to give a more exact answer, you could typically use taller and/or larger flange I-joist or 4x2 floor trusses.  The key is height to whatever you put in.

I-joist can easily give you the span you need, its just a matter of loading.

For comparable cost at longer spans and higher loadings, floor trusses can pretty much do what ever you want if you give them enough height.  Just locate a truss company and meet with them and they should be able to guide you on a proper truss design and get you a quote.

For a barn, I would probably go with I-joist but if you need to run any mechanical or plumbing, I would recommend floor trusses.


Need Help Identifying Strap Securing Dryer Vent Hose

I've typically just seen that called metal strapping or steel strapping.
Home depot sells a similar thing in their ventilation accessories section, and they call it 'perforated metal hanger straps': https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-Perforated-Metal-Hanger-Straps-3-4HS/100396917

Most metal strapping I've seen has straight sides, instead of wavy ones like yours has, but for this application there should be no difference.


Can I run PEX through PVC pipe embedded in a concrete floor with radiant heating?

I can see two things to be concerned with.

1) Is the 1-1/4" PVC pipe of sufficient size to permit you to pull out the old and replace new PEX tubing if that should ever be required in the future?

2) Make sure that the PVC pipe does not detract from the thickness of your slab to the extent that it would weaken the concrete and lead to a potential crack path. Cross wire mesh and re-bar in the concrete will help a lot but consider some additional thickness in areas where the pipe is embedded.


After the saw has failed to complete a cut quickly unplug the power, remove it from the work piece, and test whether the blade still turns freely. That'll check whether there is some drag that develops while the saw is in use. If so, repair might not be economical.
Assuming that it's a normal AC or universal motor (ie, not a brushless DC motor) then it's worth taking a few minutes to inspect the brushes. A motor can start acting weird when the brushes are nearly worn away. A new set of brushes is usually an inexpensive repair.


No you shouldn't.

If you put animal bait there, a stray rodent might find its way in there and perhaps die, which would cause a stinky problem after a few days. If you did a sufficient job sealing up the area with spray foam, the problem shouldn't come back!


How should a sub panel be grounded if next to the main breaker?

Our first rule of subpanels is Think Big. Really Big.

A 6-space panel might be dirt cheap and cure the itch today, but for a couple of pizzas, you can get a 30-space and cure the itch forever.  We really want you to do that.  There are plenty of stupid and useless ways to waste money in electrical work, but the one here is going too small and getting in the situatuon again after a few years.

It,s perfectly fine to feed a 200A subpanel from a 60A supply.  You do not need a main breaker in this sub.

I want to see 30-40% of the spaces unused even with no use of double-stuff breakers, and between both panels about 48 spaces available for the typical house.  That may seem absurd now, but believe me, if you have 48 spaces, it's a game changer.  Stuff you've suffered with is now easily fixed.

I recommend using 6 AWG copper cable instead of 8. Thqt will let you run 60A instead of 40A.  For such a short run, I would not fool around with aluminum. Wouldn't hurt, the lugs are aluminum, but copper is more flexible for the same ampacity. That may seem undersized for a 30-space sub, but the cable is easy to change when you need to upgrade.

If the existing panel is obsolete (Zinsco, FPE, Pushmatic) then I recommend a full 40-space for the sub, because then you're in a good position to phase out that old panel.  That's more than you want to bite off today, but you'll thank me on the day you decide to tackle it.

Neutral and ground are rigidly separated at the sub. Any sub.

So you need separate neutral and ground bars, and you need to pull the neutral-ground bond (green screw or strap). You already have separate neutral and ground in your /3 cable, simply put it to good use.  Provided neutral and ground bars should be a criterion in your panel shopping.  Also consider "bonus breakers", some panel kits will toss in 3 or as many as 15 breakers.

Grounding rods unneeded

Since you are in the same building, you get to exploit the same, grandfathered ground rods.  Your subpanel will get ground through the /3 cable.

Just remember, grandfathering only works if the ground rods are still up to the standard of when they were installed.  If they're broken, you definitely want to fix them.

For any of the sizes you are comsidering (up to 60A), #10 is the ground size, but that is already in your /3 cable.

But my /3 cable is obsolete and has no ground

First, if you actually mean /2 and you plan to use the bare wire for neutral-ground, that is a no-go. Cannot do it.

However, if your cable's neutral wire is insulated, then you can do a cheat: run the cable inside metal conduit.  The conduit inside diameter  must be at least 138% of the widest point on the cable.  Since the metal conduit provides a damage shield, there is no need to run up to the ceiling and across; you can simply make a straight beeline across the wall.  The metal conduit, properly fastened through fittings, is a valid grounding path.  Don't even try to bend conduit that large, just go straight across and stick spacers behind it where you strap it to the wall.


Removed Outer Brick on an Old Fireplace. Need Advice on how to re-finish

Any fireplace than can be used as a wood burning fireplace needs to be built to certain specifications set forth by the building code. The brick you are referring to is most likely backer brick as suggested by Karas but it will be backer for the smoke chamber. The smoke chamber must have a few cracks in it if you seen smoke infiltration coming through. FWIW, it will not need to be fire brick, that is only needed in the firebox only. Anything above, behind and below the firebox can be standard brick. the walls of the smoke chamber and firebox, for the most part the whole chimney, must be 8" of solid masonry everywhere.

Some of that backer may be able to be removed, but you must maintain 8" of solid, tight joint brick. After that the wood framing or any combustible material must maintain a 2" air space to avoid fires.

As you can see, when the fireplace was built, that wasn't too much of a worry. I can only recite what the code requires now....

To get past some of this, metal framing can be used, but the sheetrock must be 2" away from the brick at the smoke chamber and firebox.

If the fireplace was not ever a wood burning fireplace and was made originally only as a gas fireplace, these issues would not be a concern.


Kitchen drawer soft-closer - whose company logo is this?

The brand is KESSEBÖHMER (their US store). I can't find that exact part number you provided, so maybe that is not the actual part number of the retail product.


Custom ductwork mixing box vs manufacturer accessory

A mixing box just mixes inside and outside air to equalize temperature.  It's possible that using a smaller box may reduce its effectiveness somewhat, but in general you're simply transporting and mixing air, so my unsupported opinion based on no facts whatsoever is that your solution should be fine.


Is a plug adapter considered an "extension cord" under the NEC?

I'm not sure the term "extension cord" appears in the NEC at all. There are provisions for "flexible wiring" (section 400) but those are probably not relevant for what you're talking about. (In fact, what are you talking about?)

The closest thing I can think of would be an "attachment plugs" and "cord connectors", which is discussed in section 406.7. Among other requirements are that they be listed. I would think that if you are field-assembling something out of existing plugs that as long as the plugs themselves are listed and the wiring conforms to the rest of NEC (suitable gauge, protection from damage, etc) that would be OK.


How do I fix this leaking dishwasher drain pipe?

I would start by cleaning up the corrosion and debris. If possible remove the hose/boot and clean any debris from the inside sealing surface. Inspect the hose for any cracks or holes. Looking at the photo the bottom clamp appears to be installed correctly. The upper hose appears to be installed too low. The clamp is squeezing the hose but not the pipe. The clamp should be against the shoulder/flange of the hose.


relocating weird angled pipes for bathroom sink

This is common, particularly with "new space saving" vanity cabinets from that great big scandinavian furniture retailer. You will either need to get very creative, potentially including cutting pieces out of the back of the vanity cabinet drawers, or you will need to open the wall and reconfigure your drain lines to accommodate.

  How hard do yall think it would be?

This would depend entirely on your knowledge and experience with drains, sinks, and plumbing; and in the worse case, with drywall repair. I did this exact job in my bathroom and it was a lot of work but worth it in the end:


Why would the pressure in the cold water lines increase whenever the hot water heater runs?

This is a problem on systems that have check valves or pressure reducing valves (PRV).
What is happening? The system fills up to line pressure or what the PRV is set to.
With no leaks and the water heater at its lowest temp the pressure is say 60 psi and now the water heater starts heating the water starts expanding but has no place to go so the pressure builds until the water heater turns off and cools a little and the cycle repeats.
How can this be prevented ? Addition of a small pressure tank literarily only about 3 gallons on the cold water inlet will completely eliminate the problem.
The pressure tank has a air space that the water expands into and the pressure only slightly increases a few PSI and things won’t be breaking.


Typically the duct run is finished off with one of these, depending on the orientation of the pipe under the floor and IF in this case the pipe leading to the wall duct is round.

If the duct is rectangular under the floor, the idea is pretty much the same, it needs to transition from the duct size under the floor to the grill size in the wall but for the floor location.


We haven't heard back from OP, but I suspect what's going on here is that the range uses metallic conduit all the way back to the panel, and the conduit is the ground, accessible via the green #10-32 screw in the metal junction box. That's a legal setup; OP is good to go.

This is a modern range which does not require a neutral wire.  Historically neutral was used for nothing but the oven light and the clock, so it's not hard to get rid of.  If there's a neutral in the supply cable, it should be capped off.

In the off chance this is an obsolete 3-wire circuit with a cable, if the neutral wire is a bare wire, it can be permanently converted to a ground.  This is irreversible.  Inside the panel it would need to be moved from the neutral bar to the ground bar (on a main panel they are probably the same bar). A white neutral wire can never be converted to a ground.


Depending on the direction of the joists, it will only take 1 sheet, the T&G will have no value, unless the floor you pulled up was T&G as well, then it will only help on one edge.

If the T&G was cheaper than square edge, then I would use it. I have seen it cheaper in a big box store, although I could not figure out why it was. It was not on sale....


What steps are needed before brazing attic a/c copper tubing with a leak?

Since this appears to be a plumbing leak, the fix is to shutoff the water, drain it as best you can, cut out the bad section, and solder in a replacement section. The whole process is maybe a 30 minute job and will be much more permanent than any patch you attempt to apply. A pinhole leak in one place may just be the first sign of the entire section of pipe going bad, so I'd replace everything that's easily accessible and showing signs of corrosion. It would also be good to double check the grounding straps in case poor grounding is accelerating any issues.


Sprinkler Anti Siphon valve is leaking from cap

The anti-siphon valve is a one-way valve that should allow air in when there is a lower pressure inside the system but should close when there is water pressure.

It sounds like the valve is not closing, perhaps it has some dirt or other material blocking it.  You might disassemble and clean it and replace any worn or broken pieces.


What made these burrows and holes in my lawn (Picture inside)

Those look like mole runs under the sod. That is how they move around. They eat grubs and worms just under the root layer of the grass. Eliminate their food source and they will leave.

You can treat the lawn with grub killer or nematodes that kill the grubs. I have had these for years. They come and go but when I treat the lawn they seem to leave for a season.

Good luck!


Can I varnish wooden worktops that have previously been oiled?

You can apply varnish on top of oil, but the oil should not be fresh / wet.  It might help to go over the surface with fine steel wool and mineral oil to prepare it.  You could consider Danish oil, which is a combination of varnish and oil.


60 Hz home appliances on 50 Hz electricity (both 220 volt)

The general answer is no because the washing machine may have an AC induction motor which gets overexcited and overheats when connected to a lower mains frequency but the same voltage. You had to lower the voltage accordingly. Torque stays the same but the speed reduces to 50/60.

BUT there should be only very few 220V appliances which aren't built for 50Hz originally, and simply labelled 50/60Hz. Because higher frequency is seldom a problem.

So, check the device and/or motor plate if it says 50/60Hz.


Did my home sustain lightning damage due to inadequate grounding rod installation?

Even with a good solid ground a strike on the grid can damage equipment to the point of blowing the breaker panel to pieces with a hit that is close to the house. For indirect hits a whole house surge suppressor (the largest you can afford) may reduce or eliminate damage to home equipment. I state to use the largest you can afford as when these devices take a hit over their ratings they are damaged, sometimes wiping out the varistors in the device so it has to be repaired or replaced (larger units usually have replacement modules for each leg or phase depending on the service type).


What's the difference between a NM clamp connector and a FMC clamp connector?

A cable clamp has one job

It's supposed to clamp the cable in a way that the cable won't fall out of the hole, and will not damage the cable.

Notice the clamps are different shapes (assuming these are even pictures of the actual product, who's to say?)

So it goes without saying that the different shape will result in different clamping and damage characteristics.

However, it looks like the clamps may differ only in the cover plate, so if you have already installed the wrong thing, you may be able to correct it by swapping cover plates instead of rewiring.


Is there a pressure activated water valve

What you are looking for is generally called a Spring loaded Check Valve.  A spring presses against a ball which seals the line. Flow only occurs when the pressure can overcome the force of the spring.   But that only gives you a single pressure to work with.

See Check Valve for an overview


A utility knife works pretty well for me.

If it truly is granite, it is difficult to damage with steel blades, except by repeated slashing.

Of course you won't be able to remove every shred of the old caulk, but as long as there is significant clean and bare edge in the gap, it is good enough to hold a new application.

A powerful shop vacuum mated to a crevice tool slowly run along the gap should do great job of getting all the dust and crud out and maybe remove some loose old caulk unreachable with the knife..


are below guesses correct?

Different manufacturers use different systems for identifying products. You shouldn't look for products by that exact code unless you are not interested in products from other manufacturers and have no problems with product availability.

For a straight fluorescent tube, the key things you need to know, in approximate decreasing order of importance) include

connector types (usually bi-pin)
diameter (in eighths of an inch)
length (in feet or in metric equivalent for many folk outside USA)
colour temperature (often expressed as cool-white, warm-white, daylight etc)
light output (lumens) or
power (watts) - usually proportional to length.
voltage (Usually only one variant e.g. 120V in USA, 230V in EU)

If you ask for an "two-foot warm-white T8 fluorescent-tube" you'll most likely get something that does the job.

  what does t8 mean?

As Jimmy stated, it refers to the diameter of the tube in eighths of an inch. The T8 designation is for fluorescent tubes with two pins at each end.

  would it be possible to provide higher watt alternative?

Generally no. You usually need a longer tube to produce more light.

Note that nowadays, wattage is useless as an indication of light output, you should look for lumens instead. Wattage just tells you how much heat the tube (or bulb) puts out.

Fluorescent tubes are still pretty good at light output. In my local store recently, the tubular LED fixtures had lower light output than the same sized (but cheaper) fluorescent fixtures. The key is to always check or compare the light output rating in lumens.


What's the right way to clear a vent pipe?

One method used is to snake a garden hose up to the roof to where the vent line protrudes from  the roof. An expanding bladder of the size to fit inside of the vent pipe...

.. is attached to the hose and then pushed down into top of the vent pipe. A helper on the ground then turns on the water to the garden hose. The bladder expands to seal against the inside of the vent pipe and force the water to go down into the vent toward the plug up.

Success of this scheme will depend to large degree if the blockage in the vent is a total closure of the pipe or not. A partial blockage may just let the water run by and not provide much help.


I would give it  a good sanding with 100 grit paper and then 220 grit paper.
I would then give it two coats of a shellac based primer, it is very good at covering or hiding dark colors and stains that may otherwise bleed through other primers and paints. It is a very thin product and you may think that is not hiding the black board, but just because you can still see some black does not mean that it is not providing a sealed coating.
I would then give it coat of a good bonding primer, these are thicker and formulated to bond well to stubborn surfaces.
Now you have a nice primed surface that you can paint with any type of paint you wish.


What's the best practice for non-90 degree corners on drywall / plasterboard?

Use scrim tape on both 90 degree and non-90 degree internal corners. I've never had a problem with it in internal corners, though I don't do much plastering.

You can use skim beads on non-90 degree external corners; it might help to squash them out to open further and better fit the profile of the corner.

Don't forget to scrim tape the straight board joints too in order to help prevent cracking in the future.


How to mount a pull-up bar to drywall on resilient channels?

There is not a good easy way to structurally mount a pullup bar to a wall with gypsum board on resilient channels which does not significantly impact the existing gypsum board finish because the resilient channels allow for some movement.


Prevent water to accumulate in the frame gap

Consider a flashing installed above the frame that will deflect the water out and away from the doorway.


What effect does the type of decking used have on the stiffness of the structure?

It's difficult question to answer because there are many variables. Among them:

Composite decking material
Wood type
Wood treatment
Wood age
Climate and sun exposure

The particular brand of composite decking can dramatically affect stiffness. The early recycled plastic decking was as floppy as a noodle, especially when warmed in the sun. Later products became so hard that you had no choice but to countersink for every screw or they'd strip out in the joist.
As I mentioned, sun exposure is a factor. The difference in stiffness at 50 degrees (morning shade) and say 100 degrees (afternoon sun) is profound. Which are we considering here?
Then, what's the control decking? New pressure-treated SPF decking is quite flexible, but heavy. Those traits counter each other somewhat in terms of walking feel, but if we focus on flex, new PT decking may actually be less stiff than composites. That all changes as it dries and ages, though, and again when it begins to degrade after a decade or so. Cedar tends to start soft and flexible and stiffen only slightly with age. Redwood is so rare and expensive that I'll disregard it. What about teak and other "exotic" wood? They may be harder and stiffer.
Here's a rough ranking, in order of increasing stiffness. It's about the best I can offer.

Aged, dried 5/4 exotic (harder) wood
Aged, dried 5/4 PT SPF
Harder composites in the cool shade
Aged, dried cedar
Softer composites in the cool shade
Harder composites in the warm sun
New cedar
New PT SPF
Softer composites in the warm sun
Decaying wood


As comments disappear over time, and this might be searched in the future, I'll just copy/paste the relevant comments that led to resolution...

  (me) Look for a tripped GFCI in a strange place -- garage, outdoors,
  basement... I regularly see multiple bathrooms fed from a single gfci
  that's nowhere near the rooms. – Aloysius Defenestrate 16 hours ago

  (OP) Thanks AD! Your intelligience knows no bounds!....found mentioned
  tripped gfci in the garage indeed! – Dave 14 hours ago


Can I attach drop ceiling molding to a brick chimney?

The answer to the code question is variable according to your location, especially if you're in the US as there will be federal, state, county, and maybe even city codes with which to comply.

Besides codes there's simple common sense answers. I think I understand that the stove's pipe goes up an actual brick chimney, not just exposed through the ceiling, and my answer assumes that. I can't see any reason why you can't run the drop ceiling up to the chimney as long as you use fire-rated materials, that means the tracks, track fittings, and tiles themselves. You should make sure about that for the whole drop ceiling really.


Combining polyiso and mineral wool for class A fire rating

It’s complicated. Actually, the Code says “foam plastic insulation” must meet a flame spread index of 75 and a smoke development index of 450. (ICC R316.3) However, there’s an exception for loose fill insulation and insulation more than 4” thick.

So, if the product you are using exceeds these values, you can cover it with various materials, including 1 1/2” min. thickness of mineral fiber insulation. (See ICC R316.4.3)


Modifying a water irrigation timer to count in seconds instead of minutes

I doubt if you can modify that to count in seconds, but you can buy digital sprinkler timers (especially indoor propagation ones) that can be programmed down to the second.

You'd also need a valve - but the valves for sprinkler timers aren't designed for indoor use. Use at your own risk, etc.

Do you really need seconds? I'd say four or five minutes would be needed to fill a washing machine anyway, and the last bit you'd do manually, because of variance caused by the amount of clothes.


Legal to leave electrical boxes open and hanging by contractor

The room does not appear move-in ready.  Perhaps it was "left" like that because an inspection is a next step here, e.g. By the licensed electrician he'd have brought in to sign off on the work if you hadn't fired him, or by the city inspector.

Much of what electricians do is such as wiring compressor buildings in refineries, fitting main and backup power in data centers, at a mall putting in 800kva (that's more than the whole mall) of 480/3ph service to power a dozen Tesla chargers, installing mad numbers of Tesla PowerWalls for people not content with their grid-dependent systems, etc.  Those things need experienced electricians and are outbidding residential builders for the limited supply of electricians.

As such, it's a seller's market in this building boom.  Booms tend to cause the bottom of the barrel to be scraped, creating employ for licensed electricians who aren't very good and can't get work except in these times.

Having an apprentice wire outlets then a competent electrician inspects is perfectly reasonable, and certainly preferable to the alternative of hiring one of those bottom-of-the-barrel types, insisting an incompetent do your wiring merely because he's blessed with a government medallion.

Of course, I'm biased; I am one of those competent-but-unlicensed types... but I'm not paid to wire.


Is it okay that I turned on my new fridge immediately after delivery?

It is normal for fridges to make all sorts of sounds. Some of it will be materials contracting, the compressor running, etc.  If you have a water dispenser or ice maker, you will occasionally hear water flowing.

You are supposed to let a fridge sit a bit after delivery, but most people will just plug them in.

I doubt you have damaged your fridge.  Plug it back in, let it cool down for 24hours, and assuming it keeps working, you're in the clear.


measuring electricity on a shared circuit

You're looking for a home energy meter. These are available with a clamp-on current meter and wireless remote display.

There are several details missing from your question.

What country you are in.
Where the fuseboard is. If you are sharing a fuseboard with the business than the situation becomes more difficult as you would have to monitor each of the lighting, socket, cooker, water heater, etc., circuits individually. If you have a fuseboard for your flat then you just have to monitor the incoming cable.


Why do my lightbulbs keep breaking in the fixtures?

Depending on the fixture you may have a lamp with too much wattage. Most fixtures can handle 60 w lamps but recently I have run across some 40 w fixtures. There should be a stamp inside the fixture listing the max wattage. Too much heat will cause the problem you describe. Added I normally do not use lube below 400w lamps but do use dielectric grease on 400 & 1000 w lamps if having problems removing lamps an electrical grade of grease used sparingly cannot hurt.


What size torsion spring does my garage door need?

Every door based on weight has has its own very specific spring or springs.  No guessing.  You can take your complete old spring to an overhead door company and they will get you the correct replacement. While we are on the subject, the changing of an overhead door spring is really not a job for the home DIY guy. This is dangerous.  If you have a high level mechanical aptitude, maybe; but watch the videos on YOU Tube first.  And be careful.


What height are lumens measured at when calculating lighting layout?

Where are we getting all of these lumen questions all of a sudden?

So let's start with your nomenclature, you start out with lumens but what you are looking for  is footcandles, which you actually reference. Lumens are the amount of light created by a lamp. Footcandles are the light measurement on a flat plane.

By reading your third paragraph you are using an R40. So I am assuming you are using a recessed can. A recessed can is designed to direct light in a certain direction. So depending on the lamp and can it could be a wide flood, a flood, a narrow flood, a spotlight, a narrow spot or a very narrow spot. This doesn't include asymmetrical designs. Regardless you need to layout recessed lighting so you don't get dark spots or shadows in between bright light spots unless you're a fan of film noir motif.

Google the fixture manufacturer they should have a specification sheet. That sheet should have the fixtures photometrics. Then you can determine the footcandle level of one fixture. You're looking for 30 footcandles at task level (about 3' above the floor). Then look at the spacing of the fixture and determine the spread of the fixture and set your spacing that way.

But you can always do what I do. I start by Googling and contacting their tech help center or if they have a local manufacturer's rep I'll call and ask them to give you the spacing. If you give them the right information they can email you a rough plan and give you the right spacing and lamp.


No, at least not that I've come across. Sure, you can find bars shaped like that, or make your own, but they're not readily available in tool stores.

Your best bet is probably to try and pry the panel down rather than hitting it with a mallet. Use a flat bar or large screwdriver or other tool along with a block of wood to protect the edge of the panel. Exactly how you do it will depend on the particulars of your situation.

Update: Mazura reminded me about a flooring installer's best friend, the Z-bar. Might do the trick, but at a cost for one little task.


Can we use an under mount sink as a drop in?

According to your model number it is a Kohler self rimming, surely made for drop in, not undermount


How do I cut an angled cut with low clearance?

If you can get a rough cut with a Recopicating saw, you can use a handheld power planer to finish the cut and get the right angle.  Just attach a scrap piece, cut at the correct angle, to the planer fence.


How should I ground two switches in a handy box that were previously ungrounded?

All the ground wires in a box should be connected together, so add a pigtail from each switch to the ground wire nut, and connect them all together.  If this gets to be a lot of wires (sounds like 3 cables and 2 switches, so 5 total) it may be easier to use a push-in connector instead:

or for 6 conductors:


Will charred polyurethane cedar deter termites?

I doubt it and even if it did, you would have to basically make charcoal out of it to make sure there is nothing "edible" left.
The gold-standard for termite protection is to break ground contact.  I'll recommend a concrete or brick "foundation" for your storage rack which could then transition to wood for aesthetics.  If you are hyper-sensitive about your wood, use termite guards on top of the masonry before you transition to wood.  Termite guards are just steel, usually galvanized, and serve to further make the path from the ground (where the termites live) to the wood (where they eat) more tortuous.


What is the proper way to prevent water infiltration between exterior stairs and wall

When concrete is poured so that it will be in contact with a wood part of the building allowances should be employed so that moisture is  prevented from becoming trapped and is able to escape quickly. The wood wall that abuts to the concrete stairs should have been isolated with a vapor barrier. The most commonly and easiest to use would be 30 lb. roofing felt tacked along the stair/wall face. Metal flashing and self-sticking flashing would also prevent water from contacting the wall. An isolation or expansion joint would have helped any water that did find a way in to eventually evaporate. Repairing  the concrete  from contacting the studs is difficult. If there was any space between the surfaces a barrier could be retro-fitted. I'm not sure how feasible it would be to start cutting back the edge of the steps to create a space for repairing the wall? If you could that would enable the installation of treated lumber and water shields (flashing and felt). If not than all that can be done is to silicone caulk the wall/concrete joint, but water will still get in through the concrete by condensing.


Does the security certification of a lock relates to both bolts?

For locks, you have ANSI grades 3-1.  3 being the weakest and 1 being the strongest.  Typically, if you buy them as a set both lock cylinders will have the same grade.  But the cylinder is only one part of the security.  A higher grade cylinder will resist picking and drilling but have no bearing on resisting blunt force to the door.  Blunt force is typically the easiest way to open a locked door.

This is where latches and bolts greatly differ.  The door latch will not resist someone kicking in the door.  A deadbolt has a chance if the door, strike plate and jam are up to the challenge.  If you have a metal clad door, an ANSI class 1 strike plate (properly installed with long screws that go into the door framing) and a reinforced door jam it will take a battering ram to open the door.


How to build a mantel on rough stone fireplace

The first step is to put the hidden fasteners in. Like you said, I would use a rod system and epoxy it into the stone so that they won't come out.

As far as getting it to sit on a flat plane, I wouldn't chisel the block out. I would build up the area where the mantel will sit with a mortar that is colored to match the stone face. You can pick up mortar tints, like the Quickrete Mortar Tints. Just use a thicker mortar and mask off the areas that you don't want to get covered. Build up in layers if you are laying it thick. Just cover the area that you want the mantle to sit.


What voltage adapter do I need for a 5 meter 5050 LED strip?

Assuming the 2A was correct, then you really cannot go wrong with the higher AMPS and more AMPS will not make the LEDs overheat. AMPS will simply provide more available current to the circuit. This can give you more scalability if you decide to add more lights later on. More AMPs does not translate to higher power consumption either.

Hopefully these illustrations help:

You could go seriously wrong, however, if you over-volt them and it will make them overheat or destroy them altogether. If batteries are involved then there may be some considerations about AMPs.

More reading:

Good info that directly applies to your question.
This is about speakers but the same principal applies.
This is also good info


The switch should be prior to the transformer for several reasons.
First this kills power to the transformer; if the lamps were only disconnected, even with no load, transformers waste power. This use of power usually increases with age and later it may start buzzing as the core delaminates. The power usage in this case is from eddy currents.
Second, with the switch turning off power to the primary, if you need to work on it the circuit is dead, you did not say if this is a hard wired application or a plug in.
The size of the wire would be based on the current the lamps draw. Since it is about .83 amps each or 1.66 amps, if it is not a long distance 18awg wire would probably be fine, but if it is a long distance I would verify the voltage drop.
As Harper mentioned halogens, I would bet you could find replacement LED’s that will last longer and draw ~1/3 the current.


Why is my 3 way switch suddenly not working?

I figured it out after opening it up. The old switches the previous owner installed were actually upside down and the common terminal was in the wrong spot, so when I tired them up the same way the hot was only being properly fed by one switch and when that switch was off the other switch wouldnt work. Once I figured out that that was the problem it was an easy fix.


Patch holes drilled in kitchen cabinet shelf

"Shelf Paper" (which may actually be plastic, or plastic coated) covering the whole shelf is common. Also known as "contact paper", particularly the "adhesive" version (contact adhesive...)
Since it covers the whole shelf, it's less likely to be peeled up at the edges than a patch just over the hole would be. They make many "cheerful" patterns, but these days if I use it at all I prefer plain white, but that's an opinion. The assumption here is that the shelf itself is not anything special that you would care about covering it up, you just want a clean, smooth, easy to clean surface on it.


Self-leveling material may be appropriate depending on the condition of the existing floor and the depth of the repair. You'd need to take some measurements and read the product literature to know for sure.

The alternate approach is to rip treated joists as needed to create a level frame, then overlay suitable subfloor sheathing.

Without more information that's about as specific as I can get.


You should be able to do this

Given that a "live end connector" appears to be usable for feeding power into a section of lighting track, there appears to be no reason you cannot use two live ends and a section of NM (or whatever other Chapter 3 wiring method is suitable for your application) to connect two sections of lighting track together.


There is a red wire in my ceiling junction box. What does it do? Where would I hook the ground wiring from the fan?

Grounds are super simple.  They are all green, green/yellow or bare.  They should all be connected to each other and to nothing else. Ever.  EVER.

This is one of the few really hard-and-fast rules in electrical, and it applies everywhere in the world except some old Soviet installations.

If you have connected all the grounds that are present, that is all you can do.

If a site doesn't have any grounds, you can ignore it, or if code requires, you can retrofit a ground wire.  This process has rules which are, again, unique to grounds (far more permissive, actually).


What type of exhaust ventilation is best for attic?

Around here (California) all of the roofing contractors are installing solar powered attic vents, the ones where the solar panel is part of the fan assembly. No wiring and yes, they only work on sunny days, but that's the only time you really need them!


When derating for wires in conduit, do you round up or down?

Derating doesn't prohibit rounding up

The rule that lets you "round up" nonstandard breaker trip requirements to the next higher standard size is NEC 240.4(B):

  (B) Overcurrent Devices Rated 800 Amperes or Less. The
  next higher standard overcurrent device rating (above the
  ampacity of the conductors being protected) shall be permitted
  to be used, provided all of the following conditions are met:

  (1) The conductors being protected are not part of a branch
  circuit supplying more than one receptacle for cord-and-plug-connected portable loads.

  (2) The ampacity of the conductors does not correspond with
  the standard ampere rating of a fuse or a circuit breaker
  without overload trip adjustments above its rating (but
  that shall be permitted to have other trip or rating adjustments).

  (3) The next higher standard rating selected does not exceed
  800 amperes.

Note that this rule says nothing about not being applicable to conductors that have been derated.  So, based on the "shall be permitted" language here, without condition on the presence of the derate, we can safely say that the answer is "yes, you can round up to the next higher standard breaker size, even if you are applying temperature or fill derates to the conductors."


What is the purpose of these removable "collars" on ceramic light fixtures

It looks like the metal screw socket would be touchable without the plastic ring in place. When the bulb is lit, I believe that would be hot (energized).

Since they may use the same base for different size screw fittings, the ring is possibly designed to protect from shock hazard but being a separate component allows the base to accommodate various sized sockets.

The specific scenario I can think of when this would be important is when screwing in a new bulb to replace a dead one. The circuit could unknowingly be on (since the bulb is dead), and you could get a shock when the bulb made the circuit.


Why were the ground wires in my light boxes either cut off or tucked away unused?

You hit it with lazy.
Code requires metal fixtures to be grounded so not doing this is both lazy and a code violation.
I don’t understand why some snip unused grounds for plastic fixtures possibly lazy again because it is faster to snip than tuck it back in the box.
I always tuck them in the box if not used but I have found many that snip.


How to determine level of rust inside air compressor chamber(s)?

You should send it out for a hydro test. They fill it with water to 1.5x service pressure to test it. You could do it yourself... remove all attachments, rig a pressure gauge on there, fill it with water all the way, pump it up with a grease gun. I've never done it at home before but there is ample instruction on the web.


Why does the second light go out when the first bulb is removed?

You need to rewire. The light fixture that you tapped into should be redone so that the three wires (power in, light fixture, power out) are all connected to each other.


How far does a ground rod need to be from the foundation?

There is no minimum or maximum distance from a foundation, footing, panel or otherwise.

It is best to keep it as close as possible, but nothing dictates this by code.
The main thing you want to avoid is getting it a few feed down then hitting the footing. This is a PIA.

Here are the relevant code sections with regard to spacing.
Taken form the 2001 NEC.

  III. Grounding Electrode System and Grounding Electrode Conductor

  250.50 Grounding Electrode System

  All grounding electrodes as described in 250.52(A)(1) through (A)(7)
  that are present at each building or structure served shall be bonded
  together to form the grounding electrode system. Where none of these
  grounding electrodes exist, one or more of the grounding electrodes
  specified in 250.52(A)(4) through (A)(8) shall be installed and used.

  250.53 Grounding Electrode System Installation

  (B) Electrode Spacing.

  Where more than one of the electrodes of the type specified in
  250.52(A)(5) or (A)(7) are used, each electrode of one grounding system (including that used for strike termination devices) shall not
  be less than 1.83 m (6 ft) from any other electrode of another
  grounding system. Two or more grounding electrodes that are bonded
  together shall be considered a single grounding electrode system.

  (G) Rod and Pipe Electrodes.

  The electrode shall be installed such that at least 2.44 m (8 ft) of
  length is in contact with the soil. It shall be driven to a depth of
  not less than 2.44 m (8 ft) except that, where rock bottom is
  encountered, the electrode shall be driven at an oblique angle not to
  exceed 45 degrees from the vertical or, where rock bottom is
  encountered at an angle up to 45 degrees, the electrode shall be
  permitted to be buried in a trench that is at least 750 mm (30 in.)
  deep. The upper end of the electrode shall be flush with or below
  ground level unless the aboveground end and the grounding electrode
  conductor attachment are protected against physical damage as
  specified in 250.10.


You'll have to install it in what you put in for a replacement subpanel, unless you want to do concrete work

Here's the rub -- that meter-main of yours is basically a boat anchor.  You can't realistically replace it (conduits set into concrete act as a practical bar to that even if you got all your other ducks in the row with the utility pulling power, getting the permit needed, and finding a replacement that'd fit the space available), and you can't expand from it either as it only has room for that one main breaker, never mind having to screw around with the concrete just to get at a usable knockout.

The good news is that installing the surge protector into the subpanel will still work well enough -- it just needs to be near the breaker feeding it, and that breaker should be as close to the primary (would say "main" but that's not right in a setup like yours) set of bussing as possible.

If you're up for chiseling out concrete (carefully!)

In order to install the SPD at the meter-main, you'll have to:

Chisel away enough concrete to access a 1/2" KO on the lower right of the box and a notch extending about 6" out to the right from that KO, then make the KO in the lower right of the box using a KO punch set since your box doesn't have a twistout there.
Fit a 1/2" prefab RMC elbow to the knockout with a locknut so that the free end points out (beats field bending, huh?).
Install a NEMA 3R "spa panel" enclosure (BR24L70RP if you're staying in BR) to the concrete behind it so that the prefab elbow goes in the twistout on the back of the enclosure, and fit a ground bar (GBK5 for BR) into the space provided in the enclosure.  Make sure the bonding screw or strap has been removed from this panel.
Disconnect the existing wires from the breaker lugs and neutral lug and land them on individual 3-way insulated setscrew connectors ("Polaris connectors"), torquing the connector lugs to spec.
Use short lengths of aluminum wire matching the existing feeder wire to pigtail the connectors to the existing lugs, torquing all connections to spec.
Take 8AWG THWN (black/black/white) and pull it through the short elbow, attaching them at one end to the corresponding mechanical splices and at the other end to the appropriate lugs in the new mini-subpanel, torquing the connections to spec.  Why 8AWG? It can handle 50A at 75°C, 3 8AWG wires will fit down a 1/2" conduit, and we're legal to use this because we are following the 240.21(B)(1) case of the NEC feeder tap rules.  Note that the feeder tap rules require the wire to be in conduit -- a cable wiring method simply won't fly here.
Install a 50A 2-pole breaker (BR250 for BR) into the spa panel enclosure.
Fit the CHSPT2ULTRA into the knockout on the bottom of the spa panel.  Land the hot wires on the breaker lugs, the neutral wire on the existing neutral bar, and the ground wire on the ground bar you fitted (it's fine that it's the only wire there).

(And this is why I recommend installing the surge protector into the new subpanel -- it's far easier that way.)


What is the correct safe way to wire ground in a domestic 110/220 step transformer?

On the isolated delivery side of the transformer, how should ground be dealt with?

As the output is isolated no ground connection is needed.
Connecting output ground to input ground would not cause any problems, but neither would it solve any.


How can I remove a stubborn screw from a toilet seat?

I was away & finally found The Answer to your problem. Your problem is Kohler & their very bad design. They use "anchors" & it's quite ridiculous, here are a couple of videos to demonstrate handling of Kohler's anchors.

Video 1

Video 2


Are pull chains available for wall switches?

There are ceiling pull-chain switches sometimes used in the UK for bathroom lights, for historical reasons. I don't know how available they would be in the US.

Since you're just switching a lamp, you could get a metal blank switchplate, drill a hole in it, and install a lamp- or fan-type pull-chain switch in the wall box.


How can I effectively remove paint from receptacle covers and screws?

Use a utility knife with a very sharp new blade and carefully cut around the perimeter of the plate at an angle as close to parallel to the wall as possible.  This should get you a nice clean separation of the plate from the wall.

For the screws - if you're buying new plates they'll come with screws, and if they don't, you can find extras (including extra long ones) at your local box store.

Now as Tester pointed out, if you cannot even remove the screws, then you need a thin flathead screwdriver and a tack hammer (or a very light touch with some other hammer).

Set the head of the screwdriver against the head of the screw and lightly tap the handle with the hammer to break off the paint enough so that you can identify the actual slot in the screw.  Once you have the slot identified, rotate the screwdriver so that the tip is at an angle set in the slot, and drive the tip of the screwdriver down the slot to dig out the paint.

Once you've cleaned the slot sufficiently, remove the screw as per normal use.


Is it necessary to strip all of the previous paint before repainting my indoor metal spiral staircase?

If the paint on it is well-bonded and not flaking off or rusty (but it's inside, so rusty is less of a problem, presumably) then simply scuffing to the point where the new paint can bond should be fine.
When the old paint is flaking off, then you really have to remove it, since part of it flaking off indicates that the rest of it is a dubious substrate for new paint. Consider that the bond of the new paint to the metal is the bond of the new paint to the old paint, and the bond of the old paint to the metal - so if the bond of the old paint to the metal is at all doubtful, it has to come all the way off. Your description indicates that this is not the case.


How to fill this gap between window and brick wall? (too deep for backer rod?)

If I were you I'd try this

Fill the gap with expanding foam. Give it a full day to cure (it expands so doing it too soon will potentially leave it uneven) and cut any bubbles off so it's flush
Buy some really good outdoor (oil based) caulk. The local big box sells something called Quad but if that's not available you can probably find something similar in grade. Caulk over the joint (1/2 inch is about the limit so be liberal). That will seal the window and protect the foam.


Can I keep my existing ductwork when replacing a furnace with a heat pump and air handler?

Definitely maybe...  Sorry but it depends on whether or not the existing ducting will work with the new unit.  So you should take that into consideration when selecting a new air handler.  Many units are similar but not identical and so you may have to have an "adapter" fabricated to mate up the new unit with the old ducting.

Why do you think the old unit is oversized?  It would be unusual to oversize like that because a larger unit is more expensive and a waste of money if it's larger than the needed size.  You should have an HVAC professional evaluate your home and make a size recommendation.


Cut your shims so they do not stick out past the porcelain use some silicone to keep them from moving and make sure the toilet does not rock or move. Foam will not reinforce the shims. Use toilet shims.

Then fill the gap with 100% silicone caulk, white or beige to match the floor.


How to Hook Up 120V & 240V On AC Disconnect?

That is perfectly fine.

The neutral does not have to terminate in the disconnect box, but of course the equipment ground does.

Just so you know, as long as you are coming from a 50A breaker in the breaker panel you do not need a fused disconnect.
Actually, what is feeding that ML panel? I cannot see a feeder.


Can holey metal furring channels be reused?

Assuming the base material hasn't been somehow deformed, buckled, creased, etc., adding several small screw holes to the existing ones will not materially effect the channel's suitability for it's intended purpose.

However, if you are improving someone else's property, and they are expecting new material in their work, using salvaged material would be quite sleazy. If this your own property, you will have no difficulties.


The weight of the foam and furring strips is negligible. I'm not sure why you installed the furring strips unless you're concerned that the drywall will pull in when you screw it on, but they don't weigh much.

Anyway, the weight probably isn't a concern. Use lightweight no-sag half-inch drywall if you have reason to think that the ceiling joists were taxed originally, but the additional weight of an eighth of an inch of gypsum won't likely break the camel's back.


Wax to finish and smooth out dining tabletop with deep gouges

Such a wax exists... but before we use it how deep xare these gouges? If you took a fork and dragged it deeply across a finished tabletop you could/would fill the damage with colored beeswax. Deeper gouges would necessitate different fillers, colored shellac sticks heated and melted into the holes works well. Typically, however, if you're sanding off the entire finish, you'd do that carefully and then look again at your problems. Sand only in dire straits..

Is the rest if the finish okay? Sanding destroys a good piece.. Proceed with great caution... do as little as possible. If it's just an ordinary thing - be careful here too - strip it gently, clean per instruction, seal with sanding sealer.. Adjust color, and THEN match a color. If its a good piece, there's a lot to know so you don't ruin it.


Is it ok to use a plunger on a basement toilet connected to a pump?

A plunger will not damage your pump. You may have a back flow valve / or check valve to prevent sewage from backing up into the toilet. It is a nasty job but some times the valve needs to be cleaned, it should be accessible. Plunge away it may just clear things up.


A rim joist isn't under load the way a floor joist, so the usual restrictions on notching and boring floor joists do not apply.  Rim joists are cut all the time for dryer vents etc.  Just make sure you're between floor joists / studs.

To hedge a little, I would still prefer to mount the box horizontally and centered on the rim joist, just a bit stronger that way.

I will assume there's no way to go up or down a few inches and clear the rim joist, or surface mount the box.  That would be much easier and I'd still prefer not to weaken the rim joist if possible.


How much stronger is a triangle-shaped vs. A-shaped truss? Max snow load comparison?

Ballpark, factor of 4.  In general strength goes up with the square of the depth of the web.  But this is only an approximation, and very much depends on the failure mode.

Here's a truss calculator:  https://skyciv.com/free-truss-calculator/

Edit:  I've been mulling this over, and am no longer convinced that my first order answer is correct.  A truss is not a beam.  A beam has two main failure modes under   a transverse load:  Either the top crushes, or the bottom tears.  A truss has far more failure modes -- in effect each element has those same two failure modes, plus compression and buckling of the element as a whole, tension failure as a whole, and the connectors that tie the elements together.

The truss with the collar tie at the wall is a 'common truss'  If you run a post from the peak down to the collar tie, it's a "king truss"

I do know that A-frame (also called 'raised collar truss') are used less often.  This source:  https://hubpages.com/education/The-Flexible-Roof-Truss-And-Its-Many-Design-Options mentions that you need to use larger rafters (top beams) when using a raised collar.  By implication a raised collar truss is weaker than a common truss when built out of the same dimension wood.

If you are planning on building your own trusses, various extension departments for universities offer truss plans.  Note that you MUST follow the nailing diagrams with reasonable prescision.  It it says 11 4d nails in such-and-such pattern, do it.

Alternately consult with your local truss builder.  They are set up to to make them in a reasonable hurry, and the market is competitive enough that it's often not worth making your own.  Indeed:  Having a pro design them may save enough material to pay for them to make them and deliver them to your site.

Apologies for my initial answer.


The most likely reason for you feeling worse is leftover dust from the work performed. That will include dust from the drywall, from sanding the filling and especially mold particles from the disturbed wall. The room may look clean, but replacing drywall will produce a lot of tiny dust particles that will settle everywhere and make an allergic person feel really bad until the dust is removed.

It might also be allergy to the new paint components and if that's the case then the paint has dried by this moment and you'll feel better.

So the number one thing is to clean the room thoroughly - wipe everything where the dust and mold particles may have settled at least twice.

As to painting over. Latex paint will form soft yet rather strong film that will bond and contain the mold for a while. If there's any amount of humidity and mold is indeed in the wall then mold will continue to grow and will likely resurface at some moment. However until that happens you can feel more or less safe - the dried paint is like soft plastic covering and containing everything.


How to waterproof metalic electrical conduit entrance in concrete wall?

I have had need to seal up a few places like that in basements where the conduits came in and had a potential leak risk. On occasion I would use a Sika product, 2c-sl is the name Sika give it. A 2 part, self leveling, pourable material that can be painted on. I even made a form and poured it into that to ensure it saturated the crevices, since it was well below grade. This is good stuff. WR Grace also makes a 2 part liquid applied membrane that comes in 2 consistencies, trowel or knife grade. One is thick, the other thinner. I think either one will work for you. It is called Bituthene Liquid applied membrane. If you can get to Tremco products, they make a one part waterproofing solution, Tuff and Dri is all that I can find on that. They make another product that works really well, to bad I cannot find not more info on, other than I used it, sorry.

All these products are super flexible, and if you clean the wall real good you can paint that and the end of the conduit that the wire goes in to wrap it all in waterproofing.

Disclaimer: I do not work for or represent any of the above mentioned companies, I only know how to recommend products that do the job, and do it well.


Using Only 3 out of 4 wires on 220 wire run

Go ahead and cap the unused white (neutral) wire off
Your plan to cap the unused white wire off is fine, and for the best even, as it'll leave it available in case someone else wishes to run a 4-wire appliance off this circuit in the future.


Are Ideal Greenie 30-192P Ground Wire Nuts approved for use with stranded wire?

The deciding factor is whether the device is listed (survives UL etc. testing) for that use.  The conventions for listings are as follows.

If it says "12 AWG", it is listed for both solid and stranded wire.
If it says "12 AWG SOLID" that means it is not listed for stranded wire.

So, if you have found where it specifies such things, and it is not specific as to solid/stranded, that means both.


Looking at the specifications, both the Emerson Loft Fan CF765WW and Emerson CF144/CF152 Curva Fan appear to use PSC motors, so they should be compatible with any typical fan speed control, including the Lagrand AAFN4S16AM4.

I notice that both of these fans are premium models that have the speed controls included in the box.  In the case of the Curva, the package includes a wireless remote and receiver.

Obviously you won't be saving any money by using "off-the-shelf" fan switches with these.


Leaking plastic on plastic water connector

The fix for this might be crazy simple: petroleum jelly (Vaseline, etc). Make sure it's the plain stuff (i.e. not medicated), then take the hose off and smear some around the edges, then fit the hose back on. It's remarkable how well it stops minor leaks like this.


Confusing switch wiring... Need to repurpose the switch to power/control new light strip

The wirenut you first described is the always-hot being distributed around.

Switch 1 and the Cable 3, which is /3 cable it's involved with, go to the fan/light.  Right now, the fan/light operates off the single switch and black wire. The red wire is in the wall, reserved  for the happy day when you get a better fan that allows separate switch control for both fan and light.

Cable 2 is a very familiar scenario.

You know that some houses have floor lamps controlled by a switch.  The idea is you plug in whatever light you want, and this is cheaper to build also. Also, some of those receptacles are "split" - the top one is always-powered, and the bottom one is switched by the light switch.  The receptacle can be "split" by breaking off a brass tab on the "hot" side.  Then you hookup separate wires to top and bottom, e.g. Black and red.

Well, the last guy didn't know about the tab.  He replaced a receptacle, and just hooked it up like he found it.  Forgetting to remove the tab had the effect of shorting the red and black wire.  So you can restore the switch's functionality by finding the bung receptacle and breaking off the tab.

Or, you can cap off the red wire and use the switch for something else.


What kind of screw should I use to mount an electrical box inside a cabinet?

For box mounting I use 2 #8 pan/ washer head screws. All the ones I have seen are Phillips or square drive #2, but there may be straight. Inspectors like the square head #2 because usually only electricians use these so it can help you pass inspection. At least 3/4” but 1” is the max I normally buy because the next size is usually 1.5” and that’s too long, especially if no drywall (don’t want to drive a screw through a cable).


Which windows work with which automated window openers?

Why would you want to do this? Home automation technology is a terrible idea IMHO. The stuff is expensive, there are no standards to make things work together, and it will all break in a few years and have to be replaced. Having been in many houses with this kind of equipment in them, I cannot honestly say any of them really added value to the house, made their owners' lives any easier, or saved anyone any time at all. Do you really have so many windows that you actually open and close frequently enough that walking around your house to do it yourself is a hassle?


Is it better to do convert builder provided carpet stairs to hardwood yourself, or have the builder do it from the start (e.g. for townhome)?

If the builder is giving you the option and he has the material, I'd go for it. After all the work is done, the last thing you want to do is rip out the stairs and put in new ones. Carpet on stairs takes a beating especially on the edge and vacuuming them is a pain. Sure, it will cost more (much more) than a DIY project but it will be money well spent.


how to know if my home is under negative pressure?

In short, you want to use or rent a manometer.

I suggest reading this article ( http://contractingbusiness.com/archive/how-measure-building-pressures ) as it details the differences in levels room to room and what the ideal pressure should be in vented and non vented areas, ie kitchen/bathroom as opposed to bed/living room.

As for the dust under the baseboards, that can be due to improper cleaing during construction of the dwelling.


When is a table top too heavy for just four legs?

Sure it's heavy, but it's also stiff, unless it's in terrible condition. You say 4' x 18" - if a typical bowling alley lane (even a "used up" one) it's also 2-1/2" - 4" thick - isn't it? Solid maple, nailed and/or glued up from 3/4" x 4" strips on edge, typically; then sanded down for resurfacing until it's too thin or the business goes out of business.

In short, if the legs will hold the load, 4 is quite adequate - you can probably both stand on the middle of the table, too (again, assuming the legs are up to the task) without appreciable deflection. I would not advise that, but only because the legs and attachment of the legs may not be up to the task - the slab/top should be fine with it.


Need suggestion on appropriate hinge type for fixing cabinet door

Euro hinges are routinely used on doors that are 3/4" thick, so that is not a problem. However, the cup must be cut fairly precisely, usually by a drill press to ensure alignment and depth limit. Without such a tool, most DIYers would use conventional mortised or no-mortise hinges.


Can I install reclaimed pine flooring over a floating subfloor?

it does greatly depend on climate, but if this is a slab on grade or a basement slab, you will have issues with wood warpage and expansion cracking from water permeation through the slab, no matter how much of a vapour barrier you install.  you will have to seal the slab with a urethane slab sealer first.  then you can put in drycore or any other type of ventilated subfloor.

also, you may want to consider that reclaimed pine, although lovely, is one of the worst materials for a kitchen floor.  its too soft and too porous for even sporadic exposure to water.  its a terrible wear surface as well.


What do I do with the unused wire for ceiling fan installation?

The red wire is the ungrounded (hot) conductor from one switch, while the black wire is the ungrounded (hot) conductor from the other switch.  In the original installation one switch would energize the red wire causing the fan to come on, while the other would energize the black turning on the light.

With the new fixture, both the fan and light functionality are controlled by the remote. Because of this, the fixture only requires a single ungrounded (hot) conductor to operate.  These types of fixtures are good for situations where a switch is not present/desired, but may be awkward when a switch is present.  As you've noticed, the fixture only operates when the switch is in the on position. The other switch in this situation would do nothing, since nothing is connected to the wire that it energizes.

With this fixture you only require a single ungrounded (hot) conductor, because the remote routes power to either the fan, the light, or both depending on the setting.  The additional wire can be capped using a twist-on wire connector, or other approved method.

If you'd like to get the functionality you previously had, you'll likely have to bypass the remote on the fixture.  However, this is an atypical installation, and requires special knowledge.  This type of installation should only be performed by an experienced DIYer.

The original wiring looked something like this...

The wiring with the remote unit looks something like this...

As you can see in the new wiring, the remote unit controls the current to the fan and light. Because of this, the second switched ungrounded (hot) conductor is not required.


Does the NEC allow EMT to act as ground?

NEC recognizes steel conduit as ground. One recently active ignorant inspector does not change code, unless you have the same ignorant inspector and opt not to fight them.
You can choose to transition to NM cable in the attic (ground wire connected to the steel box at each end of the cable), though I would not recommend that (I've seen far to many gnawed-bare NM cables to trust them in likely rodent habitat) but you absolutely cannot "staple up THHN wires" without conduit around them. While it may not matter for your application, you are also then limited to the 60C column for wire derate, and if it's a hot attic that might impact you.


How to replace fan fixture for a flat LED light fixture?

Remove the four drywall screws in the existing bracket and remove it. Then see about removing the pipe, it might just be part of the bracket. If there is an electrical box up there you can mount the led  fixture. If not, you'll have to install one. Was the fan controlled by a wall switch or a pull chain?


We had this issue and found it was the gasket inside the one shower head. Same thing - two showers, same shower head, one didn't work right. Once we removed the gasket and reinserted correctly everything was fine. For us, the gasket had been disturbed during our move.


Can I use heat gun to remove wall paint?

If you have paint peeling/flaking off the wall, it might be a better option to scraping off loose paint and put on a skim coat of plaster/joint compound.  I've used a heat gun to remove large areas of paint and its not fun.  If you're determined to do it, be wary of holding the heat gun in one spot too long.  Try and warm up 1 foot diameter area and then use as wide a putty knife as you can to scrape while heating up the wall in front of the knife edge.
You should be aware that if the paint has lead in it, a heat gun can vaporize it, which is as dangerous as any citrus strippers might be.
I would also take some time to figure out why its flaking in that area under the window.  Is it from a leak around the window?  Maybe the frame outside is not sealed or the caulk has dried up and cracked.  It would be annoying to fix the wall, paint it and then have it reoccur a few months later.


What type of insulation has the highest R value per inch?

Last time I checked, polyisocyanurate has the best insulation value per inch (R-6.5) of all the conventional building insulation products, and it is available in 1/2" sheets.