Can dried out joint compound be rehydrated?

Drywall mud is so darn cheap, why would you do this?

That said, I actually tried this myself one time because I was temporarily without a car to get to the store, and I was impatient.  I managed to get it to a somewhat workable consistency, but no matter what I did, I couldn't get the lumps out of it.  I think if I'd let it sit and re-hydrate over a longer period, perhaps I could have worked out the lumps.  But by that time, I'd have the car, and I just threw the lot of it away.


How to construct a timber and steel staircase?

For connecting tread to stringer, a piece of flat bar welded on to make a bracket (instead of angle).
For risers (if needed) the the top end of the riser is typically held in a groove in the underside of the tread, and bottom end attached to the back of the other tread,
Stringers are often C-section beams (not flat bar).


How would I fit both a dishwasher and a washing machine with this plumbing?

Assuming you can physically fit a dishwasher and a washing machine between your cabinets, you would need to replace two parts.

Replace the trap under the sink with one that has connections for two appliances.
Replace the blue shut off valve with one that also has two connections.

Here are a couple of parts that should work.

This is all feasible by a DIY'er but might require some extra fittings or cuts to the shelf to make the new trap fit. You might also be able to find a similar valve but push-fit and easier to install.


AFCI breaker tripped when there was no power to wire

The AFCI worked as designed.  It detected some small arc within the wiring and shut the circuit down.  An AFCI has three detection modes: overcurrent, arcing and ground fault.  Even a small amount of current imbalance will set the thing off.  Be happy.


How to Remove Cpvc from copper shower valve?

Generically, an extractor of the appropriate size.

"Pipe thread extractor" or "internal pipe wrench" yield results in a search.


What is this part on the receptacle of the stove called and what is it for?

The broken part is a thermal fuse. Here is a link to the part

You should be able to pull the broken parts out of the end of the wires. They are just simple spade terminals.


Drain dripping noise from Garbage disposal into P trap

Your drain vent has become blocked.

More likely, based on your statement that the figuration worked for over 10 years, the vent has been absent, incorrectly installed, or blocked for over a decade, but the sink drain was somehow getting vented anyway.

If you recently changed any drain plumbing elsewhere in the house, you must have inadvertently eliminated the incorrect but accidentally working sink drain vent.

If you have made no plumbing changes anywhere, then the drain pipe must have originally been large enough to vent itself, but has been steadily, year by year, becoming narrower and narrower due to accumulation of grease and other obstructions.

In any case, your problem is a lack of proper drain ventilation.

Dripping water goes tick... tick...tick... not POCK! POCK! POCK! And how did you figure out where the water was dripping from and to, inside an opaque drain pipe? The loud noise you hear is not water dripping. It is air being sucked through the P-trap by water flowing through a choke point somewhere between the trap and the next downstream vented pipe.

The effect of a blocked drain vent goes beyond the nerve wracking noise. When the water is sucked out of the P-trap like that, dangerous sewer gases can leak into your kitchen.

You may be able to effect a temporary fix by snaking out the drain pipe downstream from the P-trap, but for safety's sake you really must get the drain vent cleared out.


What type of UV-resistant (fade-resistant) paint is best for a rain barrel made of polyethylene? It will be in a greenhouse

“Adhere to polyethylene” is going to be your problem. It Does Not Like things sticking to it.
I suppose you could voraciously scuff-sand to create a surface with a lot of “tooth”, then paint it in epoxy, hoping for a mechanical bind.  Ideally epoxy primer like Amercote, but that is too dangerous for consumers to use. I suppose something like West System 105 would do.  Sunlight will quickly destroy the epoxy, so you’ll need to topcoat it with something.  But paints stick a great deal better to epoxy then to polyethylene.


Theres a timer on your ice maker that turns on and off when your sensor detects that there no more ice in the tray, my icemaker timer opens the water supply valve to fill up the ice maker for about 5 to 7 seconds. most probably you have to replace the timer


Can GFCI trip by inductive kick & capacitive coupling?

GFCI devices basically sense a current imbalance - more current going out on the hot than is returning on the neutral, or vice versa.

In a simple circuit, say just a resistive load like a light bulb, the two are always balanced, and if they are not, there is probably current travelling through a ground path.  This is generally unsafe, and why GFCIs are made to interrupt power when they sense this imbalance.

However many motors have capacitors in them, and can upset that simple balance without any ground fault, without any current on any ground path.  GFCI devices may see that imbalance and trip, even though there is no ground fault present.

Motors also store energy in the electrical field, it's kind of like electrical inertia, and when the circuit is opened, the motor generates a high voltage pulse - inductive kickback - which again could disrupt the balance of current seen at the GFCI.


What adhesive should I use to glue rigid polystyrene insulation to itself and to wood?

"Project adhesive" or "panel adhesive"  is a variation of construction adhesive that's water-based. It doesn't have solvents that eat foam, and it has reasonably good grab.


What to use between a sticky floor and interlocking vinyl tiles (a floating floor)

Rosin paper or felt would work fine. I have used felt paper in the past because I had it in the shop.


How can I protect partially buried deck posts from decay?

Check the tag on the end of your posts, see if it says it is rated for ground contact. If so, you're fine. The post base simply keeps it out of standing water.
If it says above ground, you are still probably fine. That post will last longer than you'll enjoy your deck. Honestly, that worthless little post base will rust away before the post rots. I've repaired that issue far more than I've repaired rotted posts. Modern engineering does not concern itself with longevity.

However, if you feel compelled to address the issue, use a heavy-rated automotive jack rated for 5-10 tons+. You can very easily jack up each post a few inches to do whatever you feel you have to do. Don't bother with the commonly-available floor jack you have in your garage, they are typically only rated for 2 tons, and will fail.

My advice is fill around each post with larger-sized gravel for drainage, backfill as necessary, and forget it.


Metallic smell when HVAC Unit. fires up. What could it be?

I think you need to find your way into the heat exchanger and look for "foreign" matter to clean out.

Let me walk you through what is going on here.
The initial fan noise you hear, is the draft inducer blower, and it does exactly what you suspect.  It should take air from either your intake air vent, or older furnaces would use the ambient air of the room.  After the ignition logic does it's safety thing, then the main burner kicks in with that big whoosh.  The main blower will come on soon as well.  At this point the flames are burning in a combustion chamber where the exhaust should go up your chimney or exhaust vent.  You should not smell this for more than a minute if everything is drafting properly.

The heat exchanger is the above the flames, and the main blower moves return air over the other side of these channels and that is the heated air sent out the rooms.

Now when this metal heats up there may be some odors depending on how clean they are and what condition they are in.  That would be in the air flow, so that your don't smell that everywhere is telling.  A bad possibility would be a hole in the heat exchanger where combustion products could leak over.  A CO detector is highly recommended.


Can I split a 120 circuit from a 240 circuit when there is a neutral wire available?

Assuming it's 8/4 copper wire, you could even use a 40A breaker to protect it - if aluminum wire, 30A.
You have a 4-wire feed, and you'll need to isolate the ground and neutral in the sub-panel. If your well casing is metallic, presumably it's already tied into the ground wire - if not, it should be (they make one heck of a ground rod.)


Should I tie into the ERV or just vent outside to increase bathroom ventilation?

Firstly check if the filters on the ERV unit need replacing, as dirty filters will reduce air flow.  (Our filters need to be replaced every year and cleaned a few times a year.)

Your ducts may be blocked somewhere.

The outlet from the unit, to the outside may be blocked.

It is likely that the inlet in the bathroom can be adjusted to allow more air flows through it.  However this will mean less air gets removed from other “wet” rooms. On our this is done:

Turner the cover to remove it from the ceiling.
Undoing a locking nut
Turning the value head to increase/decrease the size of the gap.

Most ERV units have some way of controlling the speed of the fan, but turning it up will use more power.

Some ERV have a boost function that can be control from a switch or sensor in the bathroom room.

However to do a good job of this you need an air flow meter to check what is going on.  It will help if you know if the ERV ever worked well, as there may be a design fault or it may not have been installed according to the plans.


Tools and feasibility of tearing down a wooden shed held together by nails

Absolutely doable, though it may take a while.

If your goal is to end up with wood that is usable for another project, then hammer and crowbar are the right tools. If your goal is simply to remove the shed and toss everything in a Dumpster, then a cutting tool such as a Sawzall:

will make the project much easier.

If you plan to reuse the wood, then removing nails is important and pliers or vise grips would help a lot. If you plan to burn the wood then:

Removing nails is important
If the wood is old & painted then lead paint is a big concern. Actually, any paint could be a problem but lead paint would be a major hazard.
If the wood is pressure treated then burning is not advisable.


How can i increase the temperature of my student housing shower?

If they've already checked everything outside your unit, then the next thing to check is the mixing valve in your shower. Especially since your sink water gets hot enough.


Shower mixing valve right next to outlet boxes?

While as others suggested that there 'should' be no free-standing water in that area and therefore you 'should' be fine, mixing valve gaskets leak and cold water pipes can get surrounded with condensation.

If your wall is still open, and you're handy enough to replace a shower, I'd move those electrical outlets or in the least put in a GFCI breaker.


Using red wire for smart thermostat voltage

I haven't encountered the intermittent comment before, typically the R terminal in the furnace is +24vac, usually using red wire to the R on the stat. If using a tester on vdc setting the display will be erratic.
There is no code for color thermostats (or most other devices less than 50V).
But a trade standard many techs use Red for the R +24 hot , White for W heat switchleg, Green for G fan switchleg, Yellow for the Y cooling switchleg.
Historically there has been no use of the C 0vac common at the stat, so no real standard has developed, just using any left over wire or stealing the green fan control wire if only 4 wires are available and reterminating both ends of the green on C.
But if somebody has a cable with a different color set, like a 4 wire phone cable, any color swap can be used so it is absolutely necessary to document the old terminations before disconnecting the stat. Wire tags are good, pictures are great. If your documents fail you can usually recreate or confirm colors by looking at the furnace end of the cable, those terminals will be marked.


Well, if it was an addition then the plywood was the old exterior sheathing. There would have been no reason to remove it. It is absolutely typical to leave it in place.

If you are simply putting a new receptacle back to back I am not sure why you think you need to remove wall material to go through studs.
If you are implying that you need to go laterally along the wall to get to the new box location than NO, the cable CANNOT go along the surface, or even just below the drywall. You will in that case need to cut a channel in the wall to drill and cross studs. This can be done from either side if you don't want to mess with the plywood.

If you have the wire already through a hole you just need to cut a box into the drywall/plywood. A jig saw, RotoZip, MultiMaster, etc, will do a fine job of making the hole for the box.


how should i wire up this 2-way z-wave switch?

Connect the neutral from the Z-Wave switch into the bundle of white wires, that's your neutral for that box.

(P.S. the red and black wires from the 3-way switch are not "always hot" and "switched hot", they're both travelers.)


How to reduce the size of a door opening to fit smaller door?

If you cannot find an adequate door to cut down your only option is to build out the frame to accommodate a smaller door.
Once you select the door that works for you build out the framing on top and sides using whatever sized material that will get you to the proper dimensions. 1x4 or 1x6 or even 2x. The casing can be installed over it and trimmed out shimming where necessary..
You may have to use extra wide trim around the casing to get the look you want. Since it's a fire door be sure to check your local codes concerning the type of door required and compliance requirements regarding the framing and method of closure.
It would be a lot easier if you can find a door that you can trim down or order one custom made..


5/16 pex to 1/4 to 1/2 for ice maker outlet box

Adapting the size will work fine as long as there is enough flow to fill. some units are on timers and if the flow is low this reduces the quantity of ice made with each batch. I have found fridges connected with saddle valves and a tiny orifice of only 1/16" was sufficient until the tiny orifice in the piercing screw got plugged. I don't like saddle valves because in my experiance they always leak. I usually add a double outlet valve or a t and a shutoff where I tap the water line in case the line to the fridge gets kinked. My wife is OCD with cleaning and the fridge regularly gets pulled out for cleaning and has pulled the line loose in the past so a shutoff at the point of connection is mandatory at my house and a good idea every place else.


How to handle joint between uneven ceiling drywall?

1/2" of dip in a relatively small space can be sort of hidden with more mud, but I'd say it's always going to be noticeable.

2 alternatives. First, get some serious leverage underneath (something wide at the ceiling and an angled 2x4 from the floor) and see if you can push the offending drywall up. It may have just been poorly nailed in the past and is sagging.

If that doesn't do the trick, I'd even consider cutting back the offending piece and re-doing it. I get that almost nobody likes drywall work, but since you're doing some anyway, the incremental agony of a bit more will be modest.


If you are considering only LED lighting and no other use, allowing for the Arduino aspect, your concept may work well enough.

The primary reason for higher voltages is to reduce current losses through wiring resistance. Transmission lines are extremely high voltage for that reason.

In a configuration such as you suggest, the low voltage will have greater power loss due to wiring resistance, but it will be greater only by comparison to more extreme situations. Your wiring runs are likely to be short enough as to permit heavier gauge wiring to ameliorate resistance losses, without an excessive expense.

You will want to incorporate some fusing or breaker device for overload protection, as a 30 ampere-hour battery can provide enough energy to melt the insulation and/or cause a fire if inadvertently shorted.

You didn't mention a charge controller, nor the battery chemistry. You will want to ensure that you do not overcharge the battery and also to follow the correct charge profile based on the battery chemistry.

Lead-acid batteries, especially valve-regulated sealed lead-acid batteries do not do well with overcharging. Flooded lead-acid batteries will release acid vapor and damage surroundings when charged at high levels.

Lithium based batteries also have special considerations, outside the scope of this forum.

On the upside, free electricity is great, if you are able to balance your expense with the local utility costs.


The stove will have a gas regulator on it, so assuming that it is performing as-expected, you cannot increase the pressure in order to generate more heat.  The stove is designed to accept a range of pressures from the supply line to begin with and increasing the pressure beyond what the regulator is designed for would be dangerous.

If the flame is mostly blue then this is a good sign that the pressure and oxygen mix is correct and it is probably performing to spec.  If the flame is mostly orange/yellow or appears "lazy", then this is a good sign that it is not burning properly either because the pressure is too low (due to supply, regulator or a blockage) or there is not enough oxygen being mixed in (clogged).

If the regulator is bad then this can be replaced.  If the supply to the regulator is too low then you likely need a bigger supply line. Both of these are outside the realm of most DIY repairs, so best bet is to call a service technician.


any way to repair marble tile over subfloor

Natural marble is tough on a good base won’t hold up well at all in most cases with a substandard base. Since you have already started you might as well continue. Get a wider brick chisel this helps pop them off easier, that’s what I use like a Dasco Pro. If you stay with tile use a backer and use thinset to glue the backer to the wood then screw it down makes it much more solid base. If you have a air compressor here is where a air chisel can shine and pop the tiles really quick. I would verify that is tile below it looks like wood and may be the sub floor.  A better picture of the surface below may change the suggestion what year was the home built.


Unhook all 4 conductors.

Identify 2 conductors that are in the same cable.  Necessarily, one will be white and the other red.   This pair will be a pair of travelers.

While we're here, it's illegal to use a white wire this way without marking it with black or a color. Also, nothing tells you that this white is associated with that red.  I suggest marking both the red wire and the white wire with electrical tape of the same color, e.g. yellow.  You can mark them the same color because both wires do the same thing and are interchangeable.

Anyway, these two travelers go on the Brass terminals of the switch.

One pair of travelers will remain, also white and red.

Same thing, mark them so the white is tagged a color and also to associate them with each other.

This set of travelers goes on the Black terminals.

How did I know? I just know how 3-way/4-way circuits work.


What size manifold for 1" pipe from meter?

If you're going to re-build all the piping only for this pressure issue I suggest you to first try adding a flow reducers to toilets, washing machines and to all those supplies where a reduced flow is still acceptable. In this case pressure unbalancing will be reduced without affecting comfort or efficiency.

Anyway I suggest you to keep the cold piping as big as you can (1" is good) for the main conduit (where it splits to water heater and to each bathroom and kitchen lines where you can start with 3/4) as it will greately reduce pressure unbalances. If you use PEX, check pipe is PEX-c using lower grades (a or b) will be penny-savy pound-foolish. Pex c mean it's phisically-reticolated, pex-b is temperature-reticolated (but sometimes the last 'hot bath' is never done leading to premature failures) and pex-a is chemically-reticolated won't be guaranteed to last 50 years but it's not as bad as pex-b.

There are also 'unreticolated' pipes, those should be absolutely avoided as may break with hot water or high pressures so look for *PE-Xc/Al/PE-Xc * printed on pipe.


Help running power through a switch to a light, but continuing power along the circuit to an outlet

You have it right. I'm assuming you don't want the outlet to be switched. If you run 12/2 as indicated you can make it either a 15amp or 20amp circuit. With 14/2 it can only be 15amp. If the outlet is in a bathroom or kitchen it must be 20 amp and must be GFCI protected.


How do I stop a countertop soap dispenser from leaking?

So it appears to be leaking at the connection of the white plastic pump to the metal dispensing spout? The first issue to check is to make sure the liquid soap has not congealed inside the metal spout. Soak it in hot water and then gently probe the opening with a soft blunt object to break away any mineral or crust deposits. Next, reconnect the white pump to the spout. Make sure it is fully seated and securely in place. If it can be removed easily by hand it won't dispense and leak soap. Before you try to use it for liquid soap fill a container  large enough to submerse the spout and pump under warm water. Work the pump slowly a few times. After 3-4 pumps you should see water jetting from the spout end. Position the spout above the water line while keeping the pump pick-up (suction) end submersed. Pumping should now produce copious squirts of water from only the spout end. Place the unit back into place while leaving any water inside the pump. Push the knob until soap appears with no leakage.


How can I disassemble and install an old Schlage door knob?

A pin in the small hole starts it. Pull on the handle as you push the pin in the hole. An ice pick or small nail will be strong enough to do what you need. After the knob is off, you may be able to remove the rosettes as you suggest, but a lot of the rosettes are removed by prying of the rosette by setting a flat screwdriver tip in the slot that is visible at the edge of the rosette where it meets the door. This is usually located on the low side of the rosette. After that is off, the 2 screws that hold the rest of the knob is visible.

This is for the other hole, this is just for the idea, the pin on this one is too big to fit in the hole of the rosette.

It takes a little finess to remove, first be certain you are able to depress the release. On practically every schlage I worked on, only one side will release. Once you know you have something depressed, lightly push and pull on the knob, you should be able to observe the slight movement of the knob at the hole were the pin is inserted, the hole will move one way then another to touch the pin. Once that is confirmed, pull the knob and release the pin after a firm pull is made. If it does not work on that side, try the other side. It will work.


How can I increase the power capacity of a kitchen circuit?

Know your appliances
Every one of your appliances has a nameplate or something stating its power usage.  You are looking for any of the following:

Amps (typically 5-13)
Watts (typically 200-1500)
VA (typically 200-1500)

If you get watts or VA, divide by 120. That gives us amps.
Expect most of your kitchen heat-making appliances to be 1500W, or 12.5 amps.  This is because of the UL White Book, the safety standards for making appliances: UL only allows 1500 watts from appliances which plug in.  Sometimes a microwave will be permitted 1800W, since it is guaranteed not to be run continuously.   1800W is 15 amps.
Know your power source
Look closely at your power strip.  It will state a maximum amps that it is rated for (or again, watts; you know how to convert).   I would expect 900-1800 watts (7.5 to 15 amps).
Now, go to your circuit breaker panel. Look for the circuits which feed the kitchen.  There will be a number of funny looking switches, most of which say "15" or "20" on the handle.  See if you can identify the fridge circuit and the kitchen circuit you normally use.  The number on the handle is amps - that same figure we've been working with.   That is the absolute hard-maximum capacity of the circuit for intermittent use.   If you're running continuously (3 hours or more) you should only use 80% of that.
Balance your appliances.
The nameplate is accurate on hand-held plug-in tools.  It's not so accurate on certain appliances and I'll cover them.

Refrigerators take about 1 amp when running.  A bunch more for an instant while starting, but 1 amp once running.  That's not much at all, is it, compared to other appliances?
The gas oven takes even less - 0.1 to 0.5 amp depending on if the oven light is on.
A panini maker runs at the UL limit of 12.5 amps. PIGGY!
A small electric oven runs at the UL limit of 12.5 amps.  PIGGY!
A microwave runs 12.5 to 15 amps, depending on what UL has allowed.  PIGGY!

Now, if you're doing the math, you just noticed that the oven and refrigerator Do Not Matter.  However, the three "piggies" each take 12.5A or more.  There's no way to run 2 of them without pulling 25 amps, and  that's too big for everything - too big for the power strip, too big for a 15A breaker and too big for a 20A breaker.
It ain't gonna happen. You cannot run 2 appliances at once on one circuit.  A different power strip cannot fix this. The circuit breaker downstairs will just trip instead.
What about that refrigerator circuit?
Modern Code requires that every kitchen have two 20A receptacle circuits.  I don't know if your kitchen complies.  If it does, the other circuit might be that refrigerator circuit.  Find Out.  Turn off the circuit breaker that feeds the oven and range, and see if the fridge loses power too.
If the fridge is on a separate circuit, well, fridges take very little power.  It can easily share the circuit with ONE - exactly one - piggy.
The reason we prefer to dedicate fridge circuits is we don't want another appliance causing the circuit to overload or ground-fault, and trip out the fridge while you are away or without you knowing it.
Also, it is vital that small kitchen appliances have protection called GFCI.  That protects you if an appliance falls in the sink, or has an electrical problem of some kind. That protection is useless for refrigerators - you're not likely to drop one in the sink! And it can spoil food if it has a false trip, which happens a lot with refrigerators. So fridges are often not on GFCI.  So if they told you not to use that circuit, see if that is why.  If the plug is more than 6 feet from a sink, it should be alright to use.


Correct method for Patio deck attachment to roof

The normal fascia board has been removed and a 2X put on the end of the rafters to support the roof. Depending on the length I have seen this done and last for many years.
I would think if it was not up to code the home inspection would have identified that since it  looks new. It looks like they nailed through the boards. You could add hanger's if you are concerned like this. I would not tear it off unless a real problem is raised other than "looks unstable" or has leakage problems.


How to support column for the cat climbing tree

Repair in 3 simple steps

Remove the plastic support
Replace with a length of wooden dowel, probably don't need to screw it down if you get the length right
Place kitty on a diet


What could cause my newly installed disposal to not work?

Your new disposal should be connected to a switched GFCI outlet.

Verify that the outlet is not tripped.

Using an outlet tester,
verify that the switch properly powers the electrical socket.

Many disposals have an integrated breaker. Locate this switch and verify that the disposal itself has not tripped. You could also try plugging the disposal into an extension cord into a known-good outlet and verify that it operates properly.

Verify that the disposal is not jammed. All modern disposals have an allan socket beneath them which manually turn the blades. Make sure this moves freely.

Following all of the previous trouble-shooting tests, replace the disposal.


Can someone please explain this gas water heater thermostat marking

So, according to a manual I was able to finally find, the box with a slash through it indicates 120F (similar to the triangle commonly seen). Each marking above that represents a 10F increase in water temperature. I am going to guess that they wanted to indicate a scald free setting and a typical setting differently; my understanding is that 120F does not sanitize, but 130F will.


Is it possible to put portable air conditioner outside the house?

There are commercial units designed for this application, there should be no reason you could not convert yours for it.

However, you should consider:

if your unit is rated for indoor use only, you will be voiding the warranty and possible creating a shock/electrocution hazard; use a G.F.C.I. please
UV damage caused by exposure to sunlight, consider a shade structure
restriction of factory vent ports by McGyvering duct work to it may cause sub-optimal performance or may cause damage to the unit
air inlet exposure to outdoor dust and debris could affect the unit


Is exposed wire dangerous if neutral is capped?

Just a minute. Be careful assuming those are hot wires. Non-contact voltage testers are notoriously over-sensitive and will read the whole box as hot if there's just one wire inducing voltage onto the others. I see that one of the black wires has a cap on it. He may have just disconnected several that he was working on that he didn't want to become hot. It's rare to have several different Hots all in one box. Usually, though not always, there's just one.

I use one of two different  tricks with a tester like that to determine which wires are actually hot in a big cluster of wires.

1, isolation method: You can dampen sympathetic signals by using your free hand to grasp the wire you want to test by its insulation a little further down from the bare end. A finger and thumb is all you need. Hold it away from the other wires and now lay your tester on it again. If it is hot it will still indicate, if it is not a hot wire it should appear dead.

2, Reduce sensitivity: lay your index finger on the opposite side of the tip of the tester when testing individual wires in a box. This usually will give 90% more accurate results and cut way down on false positives.

I know that box looks bad being uncovered and wires splayed out like that, but I still think your electrician left it safer than it appears. He probably thought he would be the next person in the attic, which was a wrong assumption, but I just don't think that he would have left hot wires wide open like that. If still in doubt, you can get a multimeter and test the bare ends of the wires for voltage against the equipment grounding conductors (all bare), or against the neutral.


Is Armored (BX) cable considered to be protected from damage?

Based on NEC 320.12(1), I'd say no.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 320 Armored Cable: Type AC
320.12 Uses Not Permitted. Type AC cable shall not be used as follows:
(1) Where subject to physical damage

There have been proposals to change it to say "Where subject to excessive physical damage", and other such wording to show that it offers better protection than say NM cable. So far, however, all such proposals have been shot down.


Dollars to donuts, this is an RR7 kind of deal

In this system, you have a relay back at the service panel or control cabinet.   You then run 24V low-voltage power to each switch and motion sensor.

The most common, the RR7, is a latching relay. If you send control power to the relay for 1 second, it "throws the relay over" and it stays there until it's thrown the other way.   Each bank of switches gets a 24V supply wire, and it returns an "on" wire and an "off" wire for each string of lights.  Energizing "on" for a moment throws the relay "on"; "off" does the same.

The neat thing about RR7 is you can have any number of switches controlling a light, and wire it with thermostat wire.  Also, you can have automated systems work very easily with it.  Say you want to turn off the lights at 8 pm, because people always forget to turn them off, the timer just pulses the "off" wire for 1 second at 8 pm.

There are different systems

For instance one system has only one on/off wire, and energizing the wire for 1 second toggles the lights on vs. off.  That works for humans, but a machine (eg. The timer) needs a feedback wire to tell machines if the lights are already on or off, otherwise if they're off, the timer will turn them on at 8:00.  Anyway, that light may be this feedback wire.

These commercial systems are generally hard-wired old-school, because that is reliable and doesn't require a geek to troubleshoot balky software.


My AC is set to 77F and the thermostat reaches that temperature but the AC keeps running. Why?

It seems that the compressor lost the refrigerator and that is why it could not go below the temperature that would force the thermostat to say enough! It makes sense if you think about it...
When I posted the question the AC was still working but at lower capacity due to the lost refrigerator.
I did notice a strange smell (like cigarette ashes, but very light) coming out of the registries...


Wiring Aprilaire 700 Humidifier to York TG9* Furnace

There's two ways to wire this up. The first method is to take advantage of the HUM terminal on the furnace control board. This terminal will supply 120 volts when the furnace is running in heat mode, so you'll have to use an additional transformer.

You'll hook the primary side of the transformer to the HUM, and Neutral terminals in the furnace. Then you'll connect the 24VAC terminals of the humidistat, to the secondary of the transformer.

The other method, is to use the furnaces transformer to provide power to the humidistat. However, you'll have to make sure the transformer is large enough to supply the load.

With this setup, you'll connect the 24VAC terminals of the humidistat to the C and W terminals on the furnace control board.  That way when the thermostat calls for heat, the humidistat will be powered by the furnaces transformer.


Just put it back in & on, they are & I call them bushings. They just center the smaller rod within the bigger rod. It's not a locking collar & even if it were broken in 2 it would still function normally. You can sparingly glue it to the inside of the big rod if it keeps slipping out. Other than that, you should be able to find replacements at Home Improvement & Fabric or Window Treatment stores.


Can I remove and replace barbed connector in 1/2" drip tube?

It is possible.

If the tube is old and brittle than you may crack it.
If you do crack the tube, or you have to cut it, you can buy new inexpensive tubing  and barbed couplers as well.

Heat it up with a hair dryer or hot water and slowly wiggle it back and forth as you pull. Some come apart more easily then others.


Hose Bib still leaks even after replacing washer

The term leaking is somewhat ambiguous, in that the hose bibb can leak at the stem or out the spout. Leaking at the stem is normally due to a worn or cracked washer, unless its quite old and that may require using "stem packing", namely a waxed cord material wrapped around the stem instead of a more modern washer. If the leak is more of a drip out of the spout it could be caused by a bad seat or worn stem that either will wear when over tightened.

Some bibs have a seat, normally brass, that can be removed with an Allen wrench, but most don't and may require the stem to be replaced. Most stems are pressed in past a bulge point that acts both as a safety feature, so that if you were working on the bib with the washer retainer nut off and loosened the stem where the threads were no longer engaged, the stem won't fly out under 100+ psi water pressure. So, if you fouled the seating area of the stem in most cases you can't get the stem out, your only real option at that point is spend the under $5 and replace the bib with a new one.


Foam covering around foundation--what is it and can it be removed?

Almost certainly XPS (Extruded PolyStyrene) foam insulation, R-5 per inch, inadequately protected. Colloquially known as blueboard though at least one brand is pink, and other colors are certainly possible.

You'd do better to repair or replace - uninsulated concrete is a superhighway for heat (whether cold out or hot out) and thus expensive to have showing.

Proper protection involves an adequate layer of a fibered stucco or similar product over the foam to protect it from sunlight and physical wear. Among other things visible in your picture is that the soil settled and the stucco did not extend low enough to account for that settling (or additional soil was not placed to compensate - either would have helped) as well as some severe physical abuse removing chunks.


To get the best results you should remove down to a depth halfway so that the new grout can bind to the original grout and to the edges of the tile.  Removing too little will not last long since the new grout will separate.  I find the best way to remove the grout is to use a dremel with an attachment that will remove the grout.  see link to video.

Dremel Grout Removal


Should I let pressure treated lumber dry before building with it?

Unless you have a kiln to dry wood in, drying wood in a standard environment takes a really long time (if you buy firewood, usually you want ~2yr old wood!). I don't know that leaving it out for a couple weeks would dry it if it were so saturated that there is visible water coming out of it.  It is recommended to let wood used for hardwoods sit a couple weeks to get accustomed to the environment as far as humidity goes, but it is not being dried any further.

I would recommend that you find a better source of wood that is dried properly.  You also want to carefully select your wood, it might be that you just got a bad piece some how.

For outdoor projects, instead of PT lumber you might opt to try a wood like cedar which naturally resists the elements pretty well.


How can I repair a dining room table with folding ends?

Looking at the picture it seems that there may be several problems going on here. In the foreground the swing out arm seems to have come completely loose from the vertical support between the legs. The C-Clamp being used to temporarily hold that part in place is not coming close to holding the hinged piece in place so it can work properly. For this side the assembly needs to be properly re-glued or screwed in place. A combination of gluing and hidden screws from the inside of the vertical support may do the trick.

For the support on the far side of the picture it looks like the top portion of the swing out arm has completely split off. Fixing this part will require replacement of the arm part or as a minimum squaring off the split top face and gluing a new piece to replace the broken away part.

One additional note is to evaluate the condition of the vertical support member between the legs. If this piece is wobbly and not secure then I would suggest that the repairs are much more involved and you may be faced with making a decision if the table is worth the effort repair at all. Overall woodworking experience and / or willingness to take on something like this may play a big role in the decision making process as well.

Evaluation would need to be made for the other end of the table to see if it has similar problems or not.

If it was me and the table had some sentimental value I would dive into the repairs. Doing repairs like this however will not do a lot to preserving any heirloom quality of the table but that has probably been lost a long time ago as noted from current condition.

I have one final comment to make. When trying to wedge up the swing up portion of the table top it is better to place the wedge out at the end of the arm as opposed to near the swing up hinge. As shown in the far side of the picture the  wedge stick places an undue amount of stress on the hinge joint that could lead to further failure.


Anyone have any experience ordering slabs or wood?

Keep your eyes open for newspaper or online notices of Yard Sales & Estate Sales, these will also include Landlords, Stores, Hotels & Casinos looking to get their buildings cleaned out by the public wanting to remove anything.

Constantly check Craigslist types of websites, your phonebook & internet for Auction, Salvage & Reclamation companies & yards. They usually get the best stuff because they're on the call list of Demolition companies.

Finally, check Salvation Army, Goodwill, Green Drop & Habitat For Humanity. And, consider dismantling a large old Bedroom Dresser or Armoire or an old Diningroom Table or maybe a China Cabinet & an old Livingroom Coffee Table.


wiring a kitchen under counter oven - is this setup correct?

Looks well researched and complete to me.  The wire is perfect. Everything looks right.

The only thing that bugs me is opportunity cost: some building codes require you fit a 40A or 50A cable for the common/standard electric range/oven. Deluxe homes even like to see that and a 30A run for a separate dual oven.  So if it's easy now and won't be easy later, my inclination would be to throw a 10/3 and 6/3 in the wall.


This is nothing but shoddy workmanship on a brand new home.
Contact the builder and/or warranty company immediately and ask when they'll be out to fix it.
Document. Document. Document! Do everything in writing - email at a minimum, certified letters if they get snippy with you. If they call to discuss it, take notes, then summarize the phone conversation immediately in an email message back to them to put it in writing. Something like:

Dear Builder's Representative,
Thank you for your phone call of date at time. Per our discussion, here are the actions you will be taking and the date they are to be completed:
list here
and here are the actions that you expect me to take:
list here
If I've missed anything, please let me know immediately so I can update my records.
Thank you,
Nikhil

Is this concerning? Yes, it's concerning that they built the house so poorly. Is this likely to collapse on you at any moment, no, I wouldn't think so, but who knows where else shoddy workmanship is lurking.
Make sure you keep a very close eye on your house for any other signs of damage and notify them immediately.


How to install sink drain pipe correctly

I've had similar problems sometimes with sink drains. I'm guessing it's leaking were the rubber washer and the sink bottom connect? If so:

Make sure the black washer is fitting correctly. It should almost fit into the opening, but still have part of the curved section showing. Tightening the plastic nut will force more of the round section further and tighter into the sink bottom.
Check the sink drain opening for any irregularities. Run a finger tip around the drain edge and feel for bumps; it should be perfectly smooth.

I'm guessing the clicking sound you heard may be a stripped thread on the drain or a cracked nut. The PVC plastic is very easily cross threaded if not lined up correctly. Sometimes you can "uncross" the threads with a sharp utility knife.

If the two suggestions I first mentioned don't apply and nothing is working it might be worth noting that the type of drain in your photo (the accordion or flexible-type) is not up to code anymore. It may be easier to purchase a new rigid P Trap.


Can my dishwasher lacking a 'high loop' cause it to fill with dirty water, even if it happens hours after I last ran it?

Not having a high loop in the drain line could be causing this issue. I'm guessing that your drain connects into your disposal. In that situation if you don't have a high loop when you run your disposal or empty water from the sink on the disposal side it could back up into the dishwasher.
It's easy enough to set up a high loop if there is enough slack in the drain line. Simply loop it up as high as possible. Be careful not to kink it. You can attach it to the inside of the cabinet wall or under the countertop with a clip or zip tie.
Some local codes require the installation of an air gap vent on dw drain lines for the above reason. You might want to check. If one is required it would be a good idea to have one installed. That will solve your problem.


What size Aluminum 3 wire should I use to run 200 feet underground at 100 Amps

It can only be 3 if this is the service drop - if it's a sub-panel it needs to be 4-wire.

3/0 (000) should do it. There are MANY voltage drop calculators on the web, as well as tables/charts. I happen to like the one linked, but they are mostly similar and should all give similar results. Shoot for 3% or less drop at rated (or calculated) load.
 I added 10 feet to account for getting the wire in and out of the ground, rather than just the horizontal distance - wire length, not "as a bird flies" is the number that matters for length.

I prefer to allow for the full load (100 amps) rather than attempting to finesse 30A 240V dryer + 120 volt loads unknown; I've lived with an undersized feed and I'm not fond of self-induced brown-outs.


Instead of cable, put a gutter on the upper roof with a down spout directing the runoff past the edge of the lower roof.


Why is large voltage drop a problem if within nameplate rating on motor?

If the inrush or starting current if not sufficient it will ruin your motor. This is not just opinion I am a professional electrician. The rated 230V current for a 2 hp motor is 12 amps. Code requires the book value to be used not the nameplate. I would use a minimum of 300% starting current some motors need up to 500% for short duration's.  without the increase in wire size the motor will brown out as stated earlier.  I just ran the numbers 300% x 12 amps at 230V for 400' is actually 1/0 aluminum with a 2.6% voltage drop. If you use 208V the FLA is 13.2. Do what you want ignore the Manufacturer and My advice that provides similar information, Just don't cry when you let the magic smoke out of the motor.


It appears that the gutter system was was designed with that downspout, so you should retain that downspout as part of the gutter system. From the pictures you have, I only see one downspout, with a large roof section (including the second level roof which I assume drains to it as well).


Clean or replace water inlet assembly on LG dishwasher

Not sure how to disassemble that, but I would suggest doing an empty load with a few cups of bleach. Maybe once a month or so. I would assume it is dirty water side and not entering back into the machine during a wash cycle. If so, the mold may not be a huge issue. But try the bleach trick with maybe the hottest setting the machine can do. Do this a few times in a row (I know water waste) but if its not causing any other issues with the machine, i would just run the bleach and monitor it. Why replace it if its not broke!!!


That dimmer switch looks a bit like a Lutron Maestro, but your best bet to find out for sure is to unscrew it from the wall and look at the back. (Don't forget to turn off the circuit breaker for that outlet first!)
However, as @jsotola noticed, a more significant issue is the light bulb:

"NOT FOR USE WITH DIMMERS"


How does a diaphragm type bathroom fill valve stops water flow?

There are two types of diaphragm valves that you seem to know about in your question.  One type uses external pressure to hold the valve closed, but another type uses the power of water pressure to do most of the work.  An example of this second type is the common irrigation valve:

Click picture for video

I'm not going to quote the entire video, but basically, the very small solenoid controlled valve on the left controls the flow of water to the top portion of the main valve (the small, blue, down arrows).  When the top section is pressurized, water pressure is actually holding the valve closed.  When that top section is allowed to drain, the diaphragm springs up and the valve is open (the larger, upward blue arrows show pressure opening the valve).

Does your toilet valve work this way?  I have no idea, but this is a design that allows a very small force to open a large high pressure valve.


What is involved in sizing and designing ducts and ductwork?

You need to know how to calculate the required CFM - cubic feet per minute - that your ductwork will allow.  On a room per room basis you need to determine how much air flow is needed, how large the vent needs to be, and thus how large of a duct you require.  Then you need to determine how large of a trunk you require and at what points you need to reduce it after branching off legs from the trunk.

Finally you need to also know where to position the return air and how large it needs to be, in order to support the output from your HVAC.

I don't know how to calculate those things - I just know that's what you need to know.


Pressure

In a system fed from a header-tank, the pressure depends only on the height of the tank. To increase pressure you have only two or three options:

Raise the tank higher.
Install an electric pump (these are often used for showers)

If your header-tank is filled from a high-pressure municipal supply, you would probably get better pressure from that directly but in most places this would be a large job involving extensive knowledge of plumbing and local laws or codes. Your existing pipework and fittings might not be suitable for high-pressure.

Flow rate

The rate of flow is affected by

pressure
diameter of pipe
length of pipe

Half-inch pipe is usually adequate for sinks, basins, showers etc.


I have built my 3rd homemade slot car track from MDF. Stuck on surface paint

Roman pro rx35 is a product that leaves  a slight tackiness on surface when dry. It aids adhesion of wallpaper.

This is more of a comment than answer but I wanted show a picture of the product.


It looks like your fascia board behind the gutter has pulled loose. Perhaps when the gutter was attached by the screws drawing the fascia board away because the roofer cut the eave flashing too long. This may be a fix they need to do if the installed the gutter and the eave flashing.

By the plumb cut I see on the rake board, it appears the fascia used to set back there, until something pulled it out. If the roofers or gutter guys did that, and they may claim they did not, and it is up to you to fix, the gutter needs to be removed, and set the fascia back in its proper location. This may be easier said than done. It can be reset in place with screws preferably about 2 1/2 to 3" long to insure there is good wood to grab to. There should be original nails to go by to place the screws.

After the fascia is set back, then snip the extension of the metal flashing back flush with the fascia, all the gaps should be closed by now and reset the gutter on the now plumb faced, secure fascia board....


I never knew that pool rebar was grounded or bonded, so I did a search and found what looks to be a pretty good article on the subject:  http://www.poolspanews.com/2009/051/051grid.html

The lights in the pool may be 12V, but you've certainly got a transformer for those lights, a pump, and possibly other stuff in the pool area that is at line voltage, and you want all of these things and the pool itself to be bonded together and grounded.


I would just cover the entire area without adding additional underlayment. I have had epoxy pebblestone resurfacing on several sidewalks and patios that had divots after they were done you could not see any variation because of the original surface. I doubt an indoor installation would be any different from outdoor.


Can IKEA FRAMTID built-in microwave be installed in a 24"-wide cabinet?

NO, you cannot install in a 24" cabinet. Minimum clearances stated in the installation instructions need to be followed or the manufacturer safety certifications will be null and void. If a fire starts because of improper installation, your insurance will not cover your claim either.

The "30" designation does not refer to cabinet size, it refers to the finished width across the front with the included trim pieces installed to cover the required 3" clearance on either side. The installation instructions will tell you to center the unit in the over-sized opening.


Amana washer floods my floor on warm/cold cycle

The washer has an internal leak.  It is on the "hot" water line, and only leaks when the washer is trying to fill the tub.  That places the leak past the solenoid valve but before the washer tub.

The answer is get the owner's manual and pop the back off the washer and look for problems.  Could be a simple as a loose clamp, or as bad as a cracked solenoid valve assembly.


Furnace keeps cycling on and off until it's up to set Temp

this could be caused by a few things. Does the main gas valve loose power for that time that it cycles off.  If it continues to receiver 24-volts during the entire cycle, the problem is in the main control valve. I has to be renewed.  If the power is interrupted, some thing is breaking the signal.  The transformer could be overheating and opening a coil momentarily. Jumper the red to the white on the board then find out where you are loosing the signal by jumpering across every component with the meter on a low ohms scale.  I have seen boards that will open intermittently.  A tarnished flame sensor will do this.  buff it good with scratchy pad of fine sand paper.   Good Luck.


How to drain a baseboard radiator system for a repair? How to refill the system?

Why do you need to solder in the new pipe?

There are pushfit and compression fittings designed for fix leaks.

Assuming the leak is very small you could also use leak stop patty that you just form round the pipe

(Once you move away from solder, you may not need to drain the system if the leak is small enough.)


Do stair stringers need to be supported along their length?

Stair stringers are normally designed to be supported at the top and bottom, with no further support needed.

I can't say for sure whether the framing that is there currently is to support the stringer, but I would expect that it's just there to support the drywall.

Read up on how to tell if a stud wall is loadbearing or not, if it's not loadbearing, then the current framing is just for drywall.


Why is there still no hot water after installing new thermostats and elements?

After being sure the water tank is full of water (which would not be the case after replacing an element) and the cutoff valve(s) are on, be sure the power is on.  If you see voltage at the elements, it has got to be heating water.  Unless they were not wired correctly.

If you had just turned it back on, give it 10–20 minutes to detectably heat the water.

A photo of the final wiring arrangement along with make/model information and observed voltages would be very helpful.


The fridge shouldn't be on GFCI anyway.   Imagine if it had tripped over the night, you woke up to make coffee, the coffeemaker didn't work and you found the GFCI tripped, and you reset it naturally.  Would you register what it means when the fridge also starts up?  Or would the fridge re-cool by the time you go to get food out of it, and you're none the wiser that it was ever off?  Meanwhile food has spoiled.

If the fridge is downline of a GFCI, then stop using the LOAD lines on that GFCI, and fit additional GFCI receps at any other place GFCI is needed again without use of LOAD.

What to do about the refrigerator, though?

Henny Youngman had a joke, "I told the doctor 'it hurts when I do that'.  The doctor said 'Well, don't do that!'"

There's a reason we advise not to put fridges on GFCI.

Fridges do that.  New fridges do that.  Therefore, a fridge tripping a GFCI is a nothingburger in my book.

"Oh, noes, but it's unsfae!" OK stop. Why do we have GFCIs in the first place?  Because people get shocked by ungrounded (not a fridge) appliances whose electrical bits are exposed (not in the bottom back of a 300 pound machine shoved into an alcove), which get wet (not likely) and who often drop the appliance into the sink.

Absolutely none of this fits a refrigerator.  They are simply not the use-case for which GFCI is intended (or able) to help.  Putting one on GFCI simply makes no sense.

And indeed, AHJs see it that way - they will often exempt "Fridge/freezer only" outlets from the rule requiring GFCI for all basement and garage outlets.

Keep in mind a fridge is a safety system. You keep perishable food in it.

Chasing it anyway

If you feel strongly about running down the problem, I would start by slicing up an extension cord and separating the ground wire a good distance from the hot+neutral (bind those together).  Now you can put a clamp ammeter around the ground (or hot+neutral, as normal current will cancel itself out) and look for the leakage current.  I readily acknowledge that a refrigerator light is an unusual source for a ground fault, and may be worth investigating.

Normally fridge ground faults happen when the compressor motor is shut off; that causes an inductive "kick" that will rise in voltage until it is shunted to neutral or ground. Refrigerators may have devices such as a VBO to deal with that, which then fail over time.


Bathroom GFCI outlet tripped after turning on my razor!

Yes, since your razor has two prongs, it cannot develop a ground fault by itself... a ground fault requires a third path.  Indeed, the path was through you, and indeed, it probably would have killed you.   And this is why we have GFCIs in bathrooms.

Tearing it down was probably the triggering event.  My guess is also that the unit is repairable, but will need some careful and/or expert attention.  It sounds like you did find a problem, but shrugged it off because you want to shave.  You will not find another unit of this quality except maybe the $100+ Euro jobs.


Is there a more attractive alternative to a drop ceiling that allows easy access to the space above it?

You may be able to hang birch- or maple-faced plywood. You can screw it to joists and then unscrew a panel when you need to get in to change stuff.

My neighbor used this as a floor, with a urethane coating, but you may be able to skip the finish.

I haven't tried this approach myself. YMMV.


Why does dirty water come into my second sink when the garbage disposal is on?

Sounds like the drain after the disposal and connection to the other sink is partially blocked. I'd start with a drain cleaner that's designed for a partial blockage. In the kitchen, it's likely a buildup from cooking oils and grease that got into the drain. If that doesn't work, then you can remove the trap under your sink and remove as much crud from it as you can get. Note that the trap will be full of dirty water, so have a bucket under it when you remove it. If it's still giving you trouble, snake the line after the trap.


Why don't (all) professional painters use paint sprayers?

The paint needs to be of appropriate consistency. If the paint deviates too much it could clog the sprayer.
overspray (paint landing where you don't want it to) is a big issue, avoiding that means spending a lot of time masking stuff off and/or building a tent around what is being painted. Depending on the job this can take longer than breaking out your brushes/rollers and doing it the old fashioned way while only masking the edges.
Sprayers need an air compressor, which needs power and can be quite loud. You also need to run the hose from the compressor to the spray gun.
The amount of paint in the spray gun is limited and fairly likely not enough to last as long as a tray of paint or a small bucket that you can take up a ladder. Leading to more up and down movement making the tiring painter.
When people hire a professional painter they expect a minimal quality; uneven finish looks like very shoddy work and can lead to a lot of clients refusing to pay.


The 240-volt power supply will always be better and supply more power to your house.  Please take note however you need one more rather sophisticated item it the mix to make a safe system.  You need some type of a transfer switch to make your system safe and to keep your generator power from energizing the utility power grid.  You can plug individual appliances into the generator just as is.  But if you want to connect to the house panel, you need a transfer switch first.  Most places this is the law.  Without it people can get hurt.


How best to repair 24 sqft dirt hole in concrete slab

Probably low-stress, may not need anything much, but in the "better safe than sorry" mode I'd drill half-inch holes around the edges and stick reinforcing rod into them anyway. Steel is cheap compared to the rest of the job (labor and concrete cost.) That also deals with the "lock in" aspect better than chiseling.

You won't change the drainage under the rest of the slab by adding stone here, so don't bother.

You won't change the thickness of the rest of the slab either, so unless you have a heavy machine you're mounting on this particular spot that needs a sturdy foundation, 4" should be plenty.


Philadelphia Code for Distance of Switch from sink for garbage disposal?

You can have the switch adjacent to the sink. As far as code the national electric code has no specific limitations on the switch location, it has a specific length for the power cord of 18”-36” per NEC 422.16. But there is not a defined location for the switch. You probably would want it within 2’ similar to the current requirement for outlet spacing.


Hot water last long time everywhere but in my shower?

Unless something is badly broken in your setup, the most effective fixes are (1) installing a flow restrictor, (2) increasing your water tank size, and (3) raising your water heater temperature.

You're probably just using up all the hot water in the tank. You can confirm this if you have a 5 gallon bucket (you can get one for a few bucks in my neighborhood big box store). Stick it under your shower head and see how long it takes to fill halfway. A modern shower head will take about a minute to fill 2.5 gallons, which if it's 80% hot water and 20% cold, means you're using 2 GPM hot water. If you have a smaller 40 gal tank, you have 20 minutes of shower. But if you had an older shower head (probably your case), it could have easily have twice the flow, meaning you have 10 minutes.

You can lengthen your shower using any of the suggested techniques, the easiest and most effective being replacing your shower head. In many places, your utility will give you a water-efficient shower head for free.

My bathroom sink is 1.2 GPM, and most are similar, which would give you 40 min hot water in the same setup.


Can I insulate my exterior walls myself using blow-in?

This sounds like a good candidate for the procedure you outline, done with loose fill cellulose insulation, with two caveats.

First of all, while this could conceivably be a DIY project, you can't rent a typical cellulose blower from Home Depot or the like because it doesn't have the power to really densely pack the stuff in there; as a result, the material will settle and you'll wind up with an uninsulated band on top. You need one of the more powerful professional machines that can do wet-blowing and dense-packing.

Secondly, you live in a rainy climate, and it's likely that the empty wall cavities have been permitting the boards of your wood lap siding to dry readily when they get wet due to convection within the wall and heat leaking out from the interior. These traits are bad from the perspective thermal comfort and utility bills, but fixing them will in all likelihood reduce your walls' drying potential, which could lead to your siding rotting and the paint peeling. If your house has very wide roof overhangs or a wraparound porch or something such that the walls rarely get very wet, this may be no big deal. But if not, the outlines project is much riskier and it may be worth it to expand the project and remove the siding so you can install modern sheathing with a weather-resistant barrier like double-layer tar paper or Tyvek. And if you're going to do that, you might as well add even more insulation in the form of several inches of rigid foam or mineral wool boards over the sheathing--or even in lieu of wood sheathing, in the case of foam!


Is my contractor's proposal for a driveway base in Scotland suitable?

The most important step is the "base". Here, we excavate down about 12", then compact the existing ground (your finished product is only as good as your base), then install 10" of crushed gravel (not round rock) that is evenly graded from 2"" down to fines (sand), then install a leveling course of 3/4" crushed rock that is evenly graded down to fines and then place the "wear" course on top.  (Of course each layer is compacted as it is installed.) The wear course can be asphaltic paving, concrete slab, reinforced concrete slab, stone slabs, brick pavers, etc.

Compaction can be by manual tamping, but it's better with a mechanical tamper.

We use crushed rock for the base because it "locks" together and is cheaper than making the wear course extra thick.

All driving surfaces will settle. The key is to break it up so the cracks are not noticed. We do this by using slabs with "control joints". so when each slab settles, the cracks are small and "designed" into the surface.

You  mentioned installing "slabs". So, if you use concrete slab (with or without reinforcing) you need to divide it into "slabs" with control joints every 15' on center each way for non-reinforced concrete slabs and 25' on center for reinforced slabs. (Be sure to stop the reinforcing from going through the joints too.) The reinforced slab is good because it will "span" soft spots and not have differential settlement, but the reinforcing and location of the control joints need to be designed by a professional.

If you use smaller slabs, maybe something that could be picked up by 1-2 people, then each slab will move, twist, etc., but not be held in line and show more differential settlement.

If you're just building a couple parking stalls, I'd have my contractor install the gravel base and compact it and then stop and let you park on it for a couple weeks. This will take most of the settlement out. Then, the contractor could spread a thin layer of gravel to level it all up and then install the wear course.

What we use is not necessarily what you should use, because it may not be available without great cost. However, the principles are the same: 1) compacted soil, 2) good rock base, and 3) well placed sound wear course.

Make sure you have good drainage and your drive/slab will be there longer than you...maybe as long as The Appian Way.


How can I stop water from coming out of the shower head even when the diverter valve is shut on the tub faucet spout?

Could be that your diverter is not closing all the way. Without a picture.....I assume the shower attaches to the tub spout. If so, the diverter is not closing all the way or the diverter may have something blocking it from closing all the way.


CC BY-SA 3.0 DontWorry

You could probably use any of

hand tools

hand axe and stump - and practice.
hand saw - and more practice, or a custom mitre-box/jig
drawknife
adze - and lots of practice
large chisels and mallet?

power tools

band saw
table saw with mitre-gauge or jig and clamps
chop-saw with jig for angle and external support for stake
sabre-saw (reciprocating saw)

For a one-off job I would use a hand saw to make four cuts to produce a point. If it came out off-centre I'd true it up with whatever hand tools I have to hand which worked best (maybe even a jack-plane set up for hogging off). Then keep practising.

I know you really are looking for a giant pencil sharpener

See also https://woodworking.stackexchange.com


If the old stuff is grey, its Quest. Pex A is a little bit larger I.D. than regular Pex.

They make change-overs for such cases.


How can I determine whether pipes in my basement are actually drains?

The ground under your home is loaded with water. It may be down a ways, but it's there. Any water you add will percolate down to the existing water table. The only real concern is temporary flooding. Use common sense. Monitor the entire area while you run your test. Use an assistant if available. Look and listen.


Are you sure its a scale build-up. Just a few things to note.

Here is just a shortlist of things to try first:

Make sure that your water meter is not the cause. there is a filter
in most meters, and it is prone to build up with gravel and small
stones, The filter is on the meter on the inlet pipe side, but you
may need the munic to do it for you.
One possibility is that the towns pressure has decreased due to more consumption, that may be the cause of your pressure loss.
Obviously look at all the gause filters on taps and check they are clean (i am sure this has been tried already)
Generally, Scale and sediment are more prone to build up on joints and T's, rather than the straight sections, one method is to try to locate the joints and have someone replace just those for you.
See if you can locate your curb stop (shut off valve) and increase flow slightly

Scale build-up will occur where there is a rapid change in pressure or temparature (water heaters specifically), however, in your case any reduction valves or joints would be the first place to look.

There are actually many types of scale, and the removal technique should be suited to the type of scale,  A Poor choice of removal method may actually promote rapid recurrence of scale. Scale Strength (Delicate, brittle, whiskers, crystal, rock like) , texture and purity (one mineral or multi-mineral) are all determining factors

Carbonate minerals are highly soluble in Hydrochloric acid
Hard Sulfate Scale more difficult since it has a low acid solubility
(need    chelating agents)

The common way to clean scale of the pipes is an acid wash, sulfuric or hydrochloric acid is normally used, whereby the pipe is opened up just after the meter, and connected to a pump, then one tap is opened at the end of the line, and a bucket is placed, then the pump circulates acid through the pipe and flushes the system. The problem with this process is that the acid does etch the pipe and create craters for accelerated scale build-up in the future.  The system must be flushed extremely well, since the spent acid solutions of scale are excellent incubators of fresh scale.


So it was the diverter that is in line with the faucet.
The valve inside the diverter is stuck down. It only moves a little up when the faucet is running. The valve in the downward position supplies water to sprayer which is why the sprayer was fine.
Interestingly if you cycle the sprayer on and off a few times the valve loosens some and can move upward more which lets some more water flow through the faucet for a period of time.
$14 for new diverter.


How do I replace a missing exterior wood shingle?

You should be able to get a replacement shingle at a lumber yard or home center. They may sell them solo or you may have to buy a bundle. Looking at the photo it is hard to tell the style but in my locale they come split or sawn. They are installed either sanded or rough side out. Pick a shingle with the best appearance match and wider than needed. Trim it to fit with a utility knife including the angle cut at the top. Ideally you want the top of shingle to be under the trim. If the old shingle fell off rather than broke slide it under the trim. Stain both sides and the edges of the replacement shingle. To attach the shingle use exterior adhesive or drill a couple of small pilot holes in the face of the shingle. Use 4d stainless steel nails to attach it to the sheathing. If you were unable to slide the shingle under the trim put a bead of chaulking  where the shingle meets the trim.


How can I cut a metal pipe while preserving the wires inside?

You have to pull the wire out. Period.

What you're looking at here is the conduit wiring method. It's actually a very excellent way to run wiring, but I gather it's completely alien and unfamiliar to you.

The gist is that you build the pipe route, then you run the wires through it, in that order.  The wires can be any color and size you want.

Now, Code requires every junction box cover remain accessible without tools, forever.  It can't be covered with drywall, wallpaper, carpet, a screwed down plywood panel, not anything like that.   So Wherever the other end of that conduit is, you should be able to access it. That is where you pull the wires back from. Expect them to be individual wires, not the cable you are familar with.

You also see a transition from EMT metal conduit to some sort of flexible conduit system such as AC.  I don't know what's going on with the tape, but I assume/hope there is an appropriate coupler there.   Also, I don't see what's happening with the ground wire.  Perhaps this flexible conduit is not allowed to carry ground (EMT is), and that was their fix.  The right solution is to add a ground wire to the inside of that conduit the entire run.

The answer is to reroute that EMT and flexible conduit so it uses a different path.  Don't be bashful about getting more EMT or flexible conduit to extend.  They sell pre-bent sections and they also have conduit benders.

Do not exit the conduit with bare wires.  Honestly I think the metal conduit is a good idea due to the exposure to damage there (from the washer being installed and removed).  You are generally allowed to exit conduit with Romex cable, but not here, because it would be subject to damage.  However pulling stiff, balky cable through conduit is a major pain, and is often not practical for a DIYer.

So find the other end of this conduit. Bind a rope to your wires at the end. Then pull the wires to pull the rope into the conduit. Then do your work, then use the rope to pull wires back in.


Panted & Varnished but rough to the touch

Normally you would sand between coats before putting on the next coat. This is especially important after the first coat on the raw wood. I'm afraid you are going to have to sand it until its smooth with some either 220 grit sandpaper and then recoat it. If 220 is too fine, try 150.


Drywall on conrete ceiling without studs, weight issues?

Drywall weighs 8 lbs. per inch of thickness. Plaster weighs 10 lbs. per inch of thickness. This is insignificant in the design of buildings.

Changing a light fixture to a heavier fixture could have a bigger impact.

I’d worry more about the kind of fastener you are going to fasten the gypsum board to the concrete slab. Typically reinforcing steel is placed with 3/4” clearance between the bottom of the rebar and bottom of the slab.

Be careful not to screw 100 screws into the rebar and cause spalling (loss of bonding).


Digital clocks convert the AC line voltage to DC and in most cases use a crystal oscillator but in some designs multi vibrator circuit or rc time constant circuit at many times the line voltage frequency for improved accuracy. I have seen RFI (radio frequency interference) that can screw up the internal oscillator. Power spikes & drooping can cause the Power supplies that power routers to hiccup requiring reboot. You may have voltage fluctuations and or RFI problems but I have never seen frequency variations of more than + - 1Hz when measuring in the U.S. , Japan or Singapore.
An inexpensive way to reduce electrical noise is to add an RFI filter, these require a ground to work well and they are just some basic electronics that dump higher frequencies protecting the equipment. I would purchase an inexpensive inline one to test if it works a few more on the affected clocks & routers would solve the RFI problem.


What are the differences between a thermoformed vinyl coating and melamine?

Melamine doors are square cut. An have edge strip glued on (you see a line where it's glued)

Vinyl doors are wrapped in vinyl
Allowing them to have patterns on the door. An round edges.

Melamine doors dont quite look as good in my option.
But they are cheaper an still look good. With the right colour an handles they will look good.

You also have tho option of 2-pac painted doors (my option there the best)
Better finish.
They cost more.
But can scratch easier


How to deal with Mice coming into the Baby's Room

If you look carefully the problem may be worse than you estimate.Remove drawers from kitchen cabinets and check inside for droppings.Check the lower shelves of cabinets and any where food is stored.Try to eliminate food sources,crumbs,pet food etc. should be cleaned up and stored in sealed containors.I would contact the property owner and the local health dept.In multi unit dwellings treating one unit doesn't stop the problem.You could try an plug in electronic pest controller although I don't know if they are available in your area.They emit a tone that the pests don't like but people don't hear.It would eliminate chemical exposure to the baby.Keeping the mice out of the babies room is only part of the solution as you may contact the mouse feces and then handle the baby.


I'm guessing one of the red/white pairs is the line (from the panel), and the other set is a feeder to the rest of the circuit. You'll have to determine which set is the feeder from the panel, and where the other set goes and whether or not you want to GFCI protect it.

If this is true, you should connect them both to the line side hot terminal of this device as well.

Edit - Picture of end result


Lightweight lumber or lumber alternative for building a 6'x7' portable privacy screen?

I would stick with plastic rather than wood.  It will last longer, retain its appearance, it's cleanable, it's lighter, it doesn't warp or split, and it's easy to work with.  Most of the external trim on houses is cellular PVC.  You can get thin planks or cut them from a sheet.  Companies like Azek and CertainTeed make endless varieties and are sold at building supply stores.  Chains like Home Depot and Lowes have in-house brands.

A slightly different design: use PVC slats made for "faux wood" window blinds.  The slats are very thin and light, and 2" and 2 1/2" are commonly available widths (you would just need more of them).  They are much thinner than the thinnest available trim boards and sheets, so they flex a lot more. You would probably want a solidly made frame to mount them on, with a vertical support maybe every 2' or so.

In terms of mounting the screen, wind will be a problem.  That amount of surface area will result in a lot of force when the wind blows.  It will need securing at many points, and best at the top and bottom.  I've used very heavy duty zip ties, but they deteriorate in the sun, become brittle, and break after a few years (probably sooner if under heavy stress from the wind).  You'd need to replace those each season.

Another idea: use vinyl siding for the planks.  Trim off the mounting strips so you only see the "planks".  If you are concerned about the appearance on the back side, use another set there.  Alternative: use PVC cement to glue the siding back to back to create a hollow "board".  If you don't want to see the ends, which would give away the illusion, cover the sides with a trim strip.  You can get the siding in any finish or color you want.


How to wire 4 nm into 2 separate light switches and 2 lights?

So you currently have the black wires from NM4, NM3, and NM1 connected together, and similarly the white wires from NM4, NM3, and NM1 connected together. What you probably have is power arriving via NM4 and being distributed to other rooms via NM3 and NM1.
You can verify this by temporarily disconnecting NM3 or NM1 and observing what parts of your house go dark. (You have already done this for NM3.)
It is also possible that NM4 and NM1 are on separate breakers. Investigate this possibility by temporarily separating the bundles of three black and three white wires, temporarily connecting a load (such as NM3) to each of NM4 and then NM1, and observing which breakers control NM4 and NM1.
NM2 seems to go to switch #1. You can verify this through contact testing, or you can just assume the cable doesn't make any other stops along the way. If this switch formerly controlled the light that you removed then this is a safe assumption.
Now -- to connect your new light and switch #1.

Connect the white wire of NM2 to the bundle of three black wires at the light. Color the white wire black (or any color other than white, gray, or green) with paint or a bit of tape.
At switch #1, color the white wire in the same way. This marks the white wire "reused as constant-hot" at both ends.
Back at the light, connect the black wire from NM2 to the black (hot) wire of the new lamp.
Connect the white (neutral) wire of the new lamp to the bundle of three white wires at the light.

Please be aware that this installation, while safe, is not up to current code, because there is no neutral connection available at switch #1. You are carrying a technical debt, i.e. the future installation of a smart switch at the location of switch #1 might require replacing NM2.
I believe it is proper to replace your ceiling lamp in this way because, in terms of code compliance, you are at least not making things worse.


Does anyone know what this type of furnace/heater is called?

It is a free standing stove or room heater that was used in homes before people installed forced air heating systems. They were used in homes where I lived growing up in the 1950's. We had 1 in our home and it heated (sort of) 3 rooms with the help of small electric fans.


DO NOT try to chip away the marble no matter how tempting it may be.....most marble is soft enough that you can use a round file to to simply file down the offending edge. You can also use a metal cutting jigsaw blade, held firmly in vise grips, to carefully saw off some marble. Take your time and clear your cutting edge frequently and you can make your cut easily.

Good Luck!


Mouse coming through gap around gas pipe

This is a common issue that is often ignored or dealt with in shoddy ways. First, yes, set a mouse trap and get rid of the mouse. Then deal with the hole.

You may find an escutcheon that will fit around the gas pipe. Gas pipes may be many different sizes. To keep the mouse from pushing it up you could use a pipe clamp above it and/or glue to secure the escutcheon.

If you can't find an escutcheon, then you can make something to fit over the pipe.

Get a piece of plywood, maybe 6 inches square and cut it in half. Drill screw holes in the corners of the two pieces. Screw both halves down (butted together) onto another piece of plywood. In the center (on the seam) cut a hole the diameter of the pipe. Unscrew both halves an place the two halves on either side of the pipe (covering the mouse hole) and screw it down.

tip: the reason we cut the board in half first, is because most circular saws will remove 1/8" as they cut. If you only have say, a 1/2 inch pipe, then after you cut the hole in half you will have a football shaped hole instead of a circular hole... and the mouse will probably start gnawing at the gap.


How to get electrical from the side of a beam into a wall under it without crown moulding?

It sounds like you're suggesting drilling the beam clear through from top to bottom, or notching the side of one of the outer 2x8s from top to bottom.  Neither of these are allowed under modern building codes and they significantly compromise the capacity of the beam.  It's like subtracting one of those 2x8s from the beam.
With that said, I previously owned a house where water supply pipes had been inserted top-to-bottom through a structural beam, and the house had not fallen down 30+ years after it'd been done.  Thank goodness for safety factors!
Instead, build a chase
If I were you, I would build a small chase to bring the wiring from the joist cavity into the wall.


It is hard to tell but I think you have lath and plaster.
If that is the case then you break away the loose plaster exposing the lath (thin wood boards).  Once you have the lath exposed you use concrete fill ( a fiberglass re-inforced setting compound ) to get to the same vertical plane as the wall.
Typically you'll have a rough area at this point and you apply a finish coat of setting compound.  I'd go with a 30 minute setting compound.  Once the setting compound dries, you sand and then paint.
Now that the area is finished again you can use toggle bolts to hold the curtain rod bracket in place (assuming the spot that the bracket needs to sit doesn't have framing behind it).


Why is my neutral wire connected to a breaker?

That's not a neutral, and this is not a correct/compliant/safe installation.
Your well pump is 240V. Cable comes black, white, ground and when you have a 240V only load, the white wire is a second hot. In conduit, you would use a hot color (2 blacks, or black & red, or one of the various other colors) but in cable, 2 conductors is black & white.
It should be "re-marked" with black or red tape or paint or heat-shrink, but it often isn't.
It should NOT be connected to two independent breakers. It should be connected to a dual-pole breaker which will be twice as wide as the single-pole breakers you show, and clip onto TWO of the bus wings.
[want proof? turn off your shed breaker and watch your well pump not run. But you might find power in the shed, to an extent (at least enough to shock you) if the well pump is trying to run, since power will pass through the motor windings (at half-voltage) and then to your shed circuit - this Not Good.]
So, buy a dual-pole breaker of the correct size for your pump, re-mark the white wire with red or black, and connect the well black and re-marked white to the two terminals on the new dual-pole breaker, leaving your shed circuit out of the well circuit.
You'll have a 20A single pole breaker (that you will remove the black pump wire from) to use for whatever new thing you are adding...
Obligatory reminder to use a torque screwdriver or wrench for tightening the terminal screws - values are on the box label, and molded into the breakers themselves (35 in-lb for the breakers, if I recall correctly)
Further issues, responding to comments.
Yes, the neutral being double-stuffed is wrong. Every neutral gets its own hole. Grounds may be able to share, that should be detailed on the panel label that also has the torques for the ground/neutral bar screws.
The well breaker should be a double-pole, probably 15 or 20 amps, size should be specified in the pump's documentation (if you have it or know what it is.) If it's not tripping the 15A shed breaker that feeds half of it, 15A might be sufficient (if documentation is missing.) Looks like you could put that on the bottom and move the shed up - or you can wire-nut an extension onto the well white to make it reach the top position. Breaker panels ARE junction boxes, though there's a common misconception that they are not.


how much clearance does a US Stove Company model 1269E need to have from cement board walls and floor

The installation manual requires 14” clear behind the stove to a combustible wall and 23” on each side. (It can be less if it’s non-combustible.)

Here’s the installation instructions with installation details:

https://www.usstove.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2018/10/1269e-use-and-care-manual-1.pdf

Also, they indicate you should check with local codes and it should not be installed in a trailer.


Go for it.
Your only worry should be too much filter resistance, but you have that potential problem now.
You could go for a washable filter as the first layer, then a MERV13 for the second layer.  Or a disposable MERV6 or MERV8 as the first layer and MERV13 for the final.  Expect to wash or replace the outer layer more often.
Your unit may have a sight glass indicating "filter replacement", if so watch it. If not, you could cobble in a manometer.  Or experiment a bit with cardboard blocking the filter, and get a sense if you can hear the difference in pitch when the airflow is blocked.


Should I use MDF, plywood, or something else when building a desk?

Any sheet goods are going to be lacking in strength in terms of deflection so your construction will have to compensate for this. You'll want to create rigidity using geometry of some kind like this torsion box or maybe by adding solid wood stretchers and aprons. As far as materials go, I'd be partial to MDO for a project like this but here's your options.

Plywood is the strongest of the sheet goods and takes mechanical fasteners by far the best. But it's either a terrible surface to paint (if you get construction grade) or too nice/expensive to cover up (if you get cabinet grade).
MDF paints well but is monstrously heavy, is the most prone to sagging, and will not take fasteners in its edges.
Particle board is inexpensive but it's flimsy and is almost impossible to seal up well enough to protect it from water damage unless you cover it with laminate but then you've just got a counter-top.
Melamine has an durable, stain proof film on both faces but as such it cannot be painted. It's also susceptible to water damage as it's just particle board in the center.
MDO is a sheet of plywood covered in a thin layer of MDf. This gives it the strength and versatility of plywood while keeping the weight down, but it also takes paint just like MDF. It's only draw back is that the edges are not finish grade in the traditional sense so they'll need to be banded or captured in some fashion, and it's a bit more pricey than MDF or CDX.


AFCI Breaker Randomly Tripping - No New Devices

AFCIs work by literally listening to the power line for the telltale sound of arcing. This is why they are new developments, it requires signal processing power akin to that seen in The Hunt for Red October.

The relevant thing is AFCIs can hear arc faults nearby on other circuits. So your arc fault may not be on the protected circuit.  However a circuit cannot arc fault if its breaker is off.  So if you can stand to have a circuit off for awhile, you can test whether it is the cause (or is not).

AFCIs were developed to protect from electric blanket fires, but mainly ended up detecting failed "backstab" wire connections.  Backstabs are a cheap and fast method to attach wires to receptacles and switches. A tiny spring of metal clamps the wire, causing localized heating.  Pushing everything into the box puts strain forces on the wire which makes the contact area even smaller than designed.

Most modern houses are full of them.  Most of us here on diy.se have experienced them failing in scary and melty ways. Screw terminals don't do that as a rule, especially if properly torqued. So as a process of elimination, I would first get rid of all backstab connections on that circuit.

As for the kitchen circuit, Code requires that circuits powering kitchen countertop receptacles, power only them. So that circuit should go straight from the panel to the kitchen and nowhere else.  If that doesn't go anywhere near your recent work, we can exclude that.


Why won't this 3/8 male connector for a natural gas dryer fit a 3/8 female connector?

You need a 3/8" female NPT x 3/8" male flare thread adapter. Any good hardware store or plumbing shop.


Best style of window for above grade basement windows?

Honestly, letting your wife pick what looks best is the answer.  The double tilt sliders are nice if you want to pop them out and clean them I guess. I like the awning ones because you have a bigger window area without sashes in the way.  If you do get the awning style, make sure the crank mechanisms are replaceable.  I have one in my bathroom that basically isn't repairable without taking the whole thing out. Whether you will actually be opening and closing them and how much airflow you want to have is another consideration. You may not want to have to crank it in an out or remove the screen to unlock it.


Wiring for 120 now with 240 option later?

Run all four wires

Run a /3 cable (hot, hot, neutral, ground) to the receptacle location.  For 110, you cap off a hot, and use the other hot, the neutral, and the ground for the receptacle.  For 220, you can cap off the neutral and have 2 hots and a ground for a NEMA 6.  If you want 110 & 220 together at some point, you can then land all four wires on a NEMA 14.

I'd run this circuit using 6/3 by the way -- that allows you to have anything up to a NEMA 14-50 there with an appropriate breaker to match.


Central air conditioning system isn't working

If you can verify that there is power to the condensing unit (outside unit) then you have done all most homeowners can do.

The fan on your furnace (the thing in the basement) will come on any time the A/C is turned on. The outside unit has many safety and will not come on if any of those are not on. For instance, if your system has lost refrigerant over the years and the pressure drops below a certain point if will not come on.

Troubleshooting beyond getting power to the unit is probably something for a professional HVAC technician. Call a reputable one and make sure they give you an estimate of the charges before running up a bill.

Good luck!


How can I replace a ceiling light and repair the surrounding plaster?

You really don't want to disturb the lath with a light fixture.  The plaster is fragily 'keyed' into the gaps between the lath.  The weight of the light must connect to structure.  Ideally, the light fixture should be independent of the plaster.

The plaster must be 'quietly' cut back.  I use a continuous rim diamond wheel (4 1/2 inch on an angle grinder) to cut the plaster.

You need to carefully cut back the exposed lath and use a 'feeler' probe to find how far away the joists are, to each side.

You should use the Polyfilla powder for interiors, powered gypsum joint compound (with plaster-of-paris for setting) or an authentic lime based plaster (for best compatibility).

Traditionally plaster involves a brown coat, a scratch coat and a finish coat.  Metal lath is useful for making repairs to existing ceilings.


Current 3 way switch setup - how do I add a string of lights to switch with power

SMH, these clickbait sites and their stolen and re-stolen diagrams.  First let's get some colored tape and mark our wires for their actual function.

That's more like it.  One messenger or the other is energized, depending on the switch position.  So they are functionally alike.

As you can see, for a light to work, you need switched-hot (red) and neutral (white).   Are both present in switch box 1?  Nope.  Switch box 2? Nope.  Only at the lamp box do those exist.

So if you want these lights to work with the existing switches, you need to tap off the lamp box.

If you want a separate string on a separate switch, you can do that in box 1.  You would use a dual 3-way switch, which is meant to fit in a single box, and gives you two 3-way swiches.  For the new string, you would just use it as a 1-way switch by not using one of the brass screws.


How deep to place a deadman anchor for a slackline?

It’s based on the 1) angle of repose, and 2) weight of soil, and 3) length of deadman.

7-8kn equals about 1500 - 1,800 lbs.

If the angle of repose is about 45 degrees and your soil weighs about 80 lbs. per cubic foot, then you’ll need about 2,000 lbs. (safety factor) resisting.

Therefore, you need to bury your deadman about 3’ deep if the deadman is 3’ long. (I’d compact all material in the ground.)

I’d worry about a 2” diameter deadman getting pulled through the soil and compacting the soil immediately adjacent to the deadman. You’ll need a wider diameter deadman, such as a 12” wide x 3’ long steel plate welded onto your 2” pipe.

Adjust accordingly for your 15-17kn.


boiler cuts off at different temperatures for domestic hot water and radiant heating

First of all "because I was told" is a very bad reason to replace something.   Next, the house thermostat has nothing to do with this problem.   Finally, the hot water tank has nothing more than its own thermostat, so it can't control the boiler temperature.

The high-cut temperature relay may broken or the boiler's thermostat is failing.  It's also quite possible that after replacing the expansion tank, you failed to completely bleed the heating system, leading to large air bubbles and quite possibly a failure of the boiler thermostat sensor to be able to read the temperature of the water at the location of the external thermometer you're reading.