Is this typical for how hot water heating loops are plumbed?

Yes, that is how modern hydronic heating systems are commonly set up. The main pipes are called the "primary loop" and each set of smaller piping to the radiators is called a "secondary loop". (The technique has been around since at least the 1950's, but it used to be limited mostly to commercial buildings. Its use in residential systems has become a lot more common in the last 20 years.)
Boiler manufacturers want it done this way because the boiler is not designed to get back return water at too low a temperature. Yes, it sounds counterintuitive, I hear you thinking - isn't the whole point of the boiler to heat water? The problem is that if the temperature difference between the inside of the boiler and the returning water is too great, it will cause condensation inside the boiler which will ruin it.
Installers like to do it this way because it means you don't need to install lots of extra piping that would be required for a traditional "header-type" system with separate supply and return pipes.
It also means that you can turn on/off individual zones without affecting the overall system pressure too much.
If you want to know everything there is to know about Hydronic heating loops, Dan Holohan's website HeatingHelp.com is a great place to start. Here is their article on primary-secondary pumping. If you really want to go deep, Dan also wrote an entire book on the subject (as well as multiple other books about heating systems).


Is it okay to run a switched and unswitched hot on the same neutral?

There is no problem with this. In fact it's very common, especially when wiring ceiling fans.  The power (2 wire /w ground) enters the switch box, then a switched hot and unswitched hot are supplied to the fan (3 wire /w ground).  This allows the light to be toggled by the wall switch, while the fan is toggled by the switch on the fixture. It's also a common practice to wire duplex receptacles this way, where one half of the device is always powered and the other half is controlled by a switch (in which case the tab separating the two halves should be removed on the ungrounded (hot) side).

The grounded (neutral) conductor will carry the combined current of the two ungrounded (hot) conductors, so any inductive coupling will still be canceled out. Since the circuit is protected by an overcurrent device (circuit breaker/fuse), there is no way to overload the grounded (neutral) conductor. The current on the ungrounded (hot) conductors will be limited by the overcurrent device, so too much current should never flow on the neutral.


Could you explain this ceiling light wiring?

It looks a bit of an unusual setup, but I'll hazard a guess that there is either a further light on the circuit either fed from one of the switches or the power from the circuit is fed in at a switch and feeds on from here to another light (or lights).

(Obviously, you need to verify this, as we can't tell how it's wired from just one photograph).

From left to right, you likely have:

Lamp neutral
Circuit neutral (in / out)
Circuit neutral (out / in)
Circuit live
Live to switch
Switched live
Lamp live

The three core and earth cable (red / yellow / blue) probably comes from the switch. There is probably also another three core and earth running between the switches.

Have a look at the backs of the switches; this might give you more of an idea of where the power feeds to / from.

Usual warning... take care and switch off at the consumer unit before working on the wiring.

If you're unsure at all, you should call in an electrician.


What product will work best for repairing a clothes dryer drum which is cracking along the Weld?

If you can get the whole drum out take it to a welder. Something this small probably wouldn't cost much and it would be as good as new afterwards. Just make sure they can do aluminum. It's a bit different than steel and not all welders do it.


T&P valve draining - expansion tank issues?

The tank should be charged to the pressure at the attachment point.  If the tank is attached to a point in the system where the pressure is supposed to be 25 psi, the tank should be pre-charged to 25 psi.  If the tank is attached to a point in the system where the pressure is supposed to be 55 psi, the tank should be charged to 55 psi.

When the water pressure raises above the air pressure in the expansion tank, the water will begin to fill the tank and compress the air further.  As the water pressure decreases, the air pressure in the tank forces the water out of the tank. If the tank is charged too high, water will not be able to compress the air and fill the tank.

Note: Measuring the pressure in the tank while it's connected to a pressurized water system, will show the pressure in the water system not the pre-charged air pressure of the tank. To measure the air pressure of the expansion tank, you must isolate it from the system.


How do I fix broken screw flange in shower drain?

See if some of the covers that do not use screws will work for you.

Example this oatey cover has tabs that grip inside the drain hole.

There are other after market drain covers that employ a screwless attaching mechanism, even an attached hair trap.
Use the search term “snap in drain cover” to try and find a compatible one.


Does this wall tile's mortar contain asbestos?

There's really only one way to tell with a building that is old enough that it might be there (and it "might" be in many things, whether or not it was common in those things.)

That way is to take a sample and send it to a laboratory for analysis.

I once got curious and looked into what that involves, and it's essentially some fancy microscope work that does not look particularly likely to be easily replicated by the home scientist.


you probably saw something like this

these are for metal, not masonary


How do I prep and plaster a bowed wall before tiling?

Just in case this helps anyone, I spoke to the people at the tile shop and they recommended building the wall out using cement based tile adhesive (the type you buy as powder and mix).  I did this and it worked well.  You have to work fast though, that stuff dries very quickly!


How can I wire a GFCI combo switch so that the switch controls the receptacle?

Depending on the device, it should go something like this.

Wiring the device in this way, should allow the switch to control the receptacle. The switch will also control anything connected to the Load terminals, and the Load terminals will be GFCI protected.

NOTE: For outdoor installations, don't forget the in-use weatherproof cover.


Air handler blower, motor, or something else?

ECM Motor Troubleshooting –yorkcentraltechtalk

  Troubleshooting the ECM motor can be very simple if you just remember that it's not just ON or OFF.  There are basically 4 problems that will not allow the motor to run:

There is no input power to the motor controller (high voltage input).
There is improper or no communication to the motor (low voltage inputs). This problem could be the CFM Programming control or board or the low voltage connector (wiring harness).
The motor controller (module) has failed.
The motor has failed (least likely of all the problems)


The minimum bending radius or PEX is 8 times the outside diameter of PEX, (8 x OD). For 1/2" PEX with OD of 5/8", minimum bending radius is 8 x 5/8" = 5".
OD's for 5/8" PEX is.75", 3/4" PEX is .875" and 1"
pex is 1.125"
So minimum bending radius for 5/8" PEX is 6", for 3/4" PEX is 7", and for 1" PEX is 9"
These are the minimum bending radii so anything over that is reasonable.


Why do I run out of hot water after 5 min?

More than likely what is happening is that there is an accumulation of rust and water deposit that formed on the bottom of the water heater tank and this is inhibiting the transfer of heat from the exchanger to the water.

There should be a drain on the bottom of your water heater that you should regularly drain the water from it.  This should be done every couple of years to prevent such problems.

Turn off your water heater temporarily, attach the end of a hose to the bottom drain and run the other end to a floor drain or nearby slop sink.  Open the drain valve to help try and flush a lot of that sediment out from the bottom.  Don't be alarmed if the water looks rusty or grainy, this is normal wear and tear for a water heater.

See if this helps and if not then it is probably time for a new water heater.


As ThreePhaseEel has suggested and since its already installed maybe you should think about what your really need (demand verses connected). One thing you could do is install an extra conductor to your run to the jbox and get one circuit to the pagoda and one circuit to the shed. Also I would rethink my conductor size to the j-box. Having a #6 run 110 ft to a #12 running a further 90 ft wouldn't be my idea of a good circuit. To be sure you would have to do a drop calculation to the j-box and then another to the shed. In other words I don't see the benefit of running the #6. Also FYI a #6 does not fit in a standard 20 or 15 amp breaker. The largest they  accept is a #8. So you would have to splice another tail on to it in the panel.

I have also done what everyone has suggested. Only I have installed a buck/boost transformer. You could install it either at the load or line side of the circuit, and simple boost the voltage to whichever % your going to need to cover the drop. Remember you would have to do a voltage drop calculation with the necessary amperage at each location to get the proper boost. Also remember that  even though you adjust the voltage you will experience a power loss due to the resistance of the wire.

Example: If you installed a boost xfmr to cover a 10% loss. Then you would loose 10% of your power.  120V*20A=2400VA(W), less 10% would be (120V*20A)*90%=2160VA(W) or 2160W/120V=18A. See how it works.

Good luck on whatever you decide.


Water damage restoration - disinfecting carpet?

Bleach is king for disinfection. But you have to be careful using bleach as it can bleach the carpet (of course). For general cleaning 5% dilution of household bleach is generally recommended (so, 6.75 fl. oz. household bleach plus one gallon of water). But for the carpet, I wouldn't do it- or I would try starting with a lower (1% or 2%) concentration of household bleach.

Since bleach is kind of sketchy, benzalkonium chloride or n-Alkyl (40% C12, 50% C14, 10% C16) dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride would be the next best thing. These antibiotics are the active ingredients from many lysol and clorox products (like wipes, 409, and hand sanitizers). I would recommend the same usage level (for these antimicrobials) for cleaning and disinfecting the carpet, as around the same levels that are used in wipes and 409 (that's 0.3%). In fact, I think that pouring 409 over the spot and then using a wet vac or steam cleaner to clean the spot would work perfectly well.

Now there are a ton of disinfecting carpet cleaners (antimicrobials require EPA registration) so, generally speaking, they are more likely to work. Some antimicrobial carpet cleaners might contain some form of benzyl ammonium chloride... whole others only contain alcohols (like phenophenol or phenoxyisopropanol)... and some contain both.

That being said, some companies like Bissel are able to sell 4.67% hydroxgen peroxide as a disinfecting carpet cleaner... if you poured that straight onto the carpet it should work, but I can't see how you could really dilute it and still expect it to work. So obviously, the EPA lets some stuff slide. I think that Bissel's banking on the fact that people rarely shop for disinfecting cleaners... and plenty of people opt for the good looking packaging. On that same note, I ran across a product called Microban... which contains: o-Phenylphenol 0.22% and Diisobutylphenoxyethoxy ethyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride monohydrate 0.70%. Pretty good looking stuff, but the package is ugly as sin and the price is too high compared with say 409 (actually named CPPC EVEREST epa# 67619-10... Clorox tries to hide their products with names like Boris and Blondie), which contains 0.3% n-Alkyl (40% C12, 50% C14, 10% C16) dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.

For any product that claims to be antimicrobial, you can find the label here: USEPA Product Label Search.

Also be skeptical of instructions online for using all kinds of stuff- especially the one that pops up first on google which includes about 1/2 cornmeal. Using cornmeal isn't a good idea for disinfection. Borax... not really. Vinegar... a little. Vinegar with bleach... oh yes- but that could also go deadly wrong.


Should I remove and reinstall a Jacuzzi / whirlpool tub when replacing the paneling around it with tile?

As I mentioned in a comment, this is largely a matter of personal preference, available resources, etc. What I would want to do is remove the tub. I can't say if that's what I'd end up doing. My reasoning:

Deck tile should really extend underneath the tub flange. It won't look great if you have to fit tile around it and grout to it, even if you caulk. A clean overlapping edge looks best.
Therefore, the backer should also extend underneath the tub flange, and the solid wood decking should be removed.
As you stated, the rather old plumbing should be upgraded. This is best done with the tub out and the connections and space more accessible.
The tub is less prone to damage during tiling if it's out of the way. You could certainly protect it with cardboard and blankets, but even then scratches and chips are possible.

Note that the tub doesn't actually rest on its flange. It's not designed to carry weight. You'll need to plan well and possibly shim up the tub base to meet the height of your tile.


grab a multimeter and figure out what the normal operation of the switch is. it's probably 12 or 24 vdc. leave the multimeter hooked up and watch it while the system is off, operating normally, and experiencing the problem. the resistor is probably a supervision resistor, so there are at least 3 possible outputs from the switch: open, resistor load, closed/short.

you can then decide the best way to diagnose the problem.

once you know how it should be operating, you can, for example, remove the switch and short or open or use the resistor to trick the furnace in to thinking it is still hot and the fan needs to keep running. if the fan doesn't run properly, then you know the problem is not the limit switch.


Is a Garage considered a 'Dwelling' for standalone electric service?

310.15(B)(7) relates to a weird exception in how wiring is done.

The jurisdiction of NEC normally ends at a specific demarcation point, e.g. the meter.  Beyond that, the installation is under power company Codes -- I believe IEEE's National Electric Safety Code (NESC). That Code is built around different assumptions applicable to power companies:

The wires will be outdoors or underground
Given the outdoor-scale distances, cost of wire matters a lot
The wires will be out of contact of humans or structures, so they can run hotter
Whole neighborhoods don't peak at once, so wires can be significantly oversubscribed
System monitoring equipment will warn when those assumptions are wrong

As such, they are allowed to use thinner wire.  However sometimes situations arise where outdoor wiring looks, walks and quacks like power company wiring that would be subject to NESC, but has landed in NEC jurisdiction because of a technicality.  An example is rural Texas where the PoCo slaps a meter at the edge of your property and leaves it to you to provide your own service drop/lateral.  It would be prohibitive to make, say, a 500' run using wire out of the usual 310.15(B)(16) (formerly known as 310.16) table.    So NEC 310.15(B)(7) and accompanying Code allows you to use wire sizes more like what NESC would recommend in that instance.


How do I cable up a 10kw generator to my house from garage?

Edit. I may have mis read so the second half is about tie in this first part is support of a cable: thanks @Izzy +
If talking about a cable grip like a U eye weave split lace.
these provide support to a cable like those finger locks but they wrap around and are laced together.
There are weaves that are not split but then you have to feed the length of cable from to the point of support .
one of my small ones is an L9575  1-1/4-1-1/2” cable size get ready for some sticker shock these run 60-70$ and the larger size I use is ~$130. But they do support the cable if this is the question.
To tie a generator into your home power system there are 2 ways to do it.
The least expensive is a mechanical interlock kit that locks the main circuit breaker in the off position then allows a breaker to be turned on (yes with the main off) back feeding a breaker from the generator to power circuits that are turned on (some will need to be turned off or you will overload your generator.
The other method transfer switches has 2 sub categories.
A whole house transfer switch is a large “double or triple pole double throw” switch. The utility power is connected on one side and the generator is on the other. The house panel is the common so in 1 position the panel is connected to the utility flip the switch and the panel is connected to the generator )some breakers in the main need to be turned off to prevent overloading the generator.
The second transfer switch method is you choose the circuits to connect to the generator.
Each circuit is a switch that connects single or double pole double throw. These circuits are re-wired to a separate switch box unit that only powers the circuits wanted so you don’t overload the generator each switch is usually moved to the utility or generator position this is the most fool proof but also the most expensive method and it limits what can be powered.
The interlock or transfer switch methods prevent you from back feeding onto the power lines where the voltage man transformed to 12kv up to 35kv depending if in the city or country. That high voltage can kill a lineman or someone messing with down lines that were not hot a second before, but more likely is the massive load on your generator as you just became the power company will overload your generator and hopefully trip it’s breakers if not it will smoke the alternator and your generator is toast.


How can I remove the condensate pump from a Miele dryer?

At the left corner (2nd photograph), push down the lip a bit with your finger, then it easily swivels out.
Clean out the stuff in the reservoir.
You can remove the part that the hose attaches to as well, be sure to put back the ball back into this part, it serves as a anti-back-flow valve


How can I connect a humidifier to a Goodman dual fuel heating system?

According to the Installation Instructions for a Goodman GMVC95, there should be a 5" brown wire hanging around, not a terminal.

24 Volt Humidifier
A 5" long brown wire in the wire harness at the low fire pressure switch provides 24 VAC humidifier control. This wire is powered any time the pressure switch is closed. To connect 24 VAC HUM, connect the 24 VAC line of the humidifier to the 5" brown wire. The connection can be made by either stripping the wire and using a wire nut or by using a field supplied quick connect terminal. The wiring must conform to all local and national codes. Connect the COM side of the humidifier to the C terminal on the furnace control board (or to the COM side of the 24 VAC transformer). Do not connect 115V humidifier to these terminals.


Why are there two layers of dry wall in my ceiling, and how can I patch it?

We've done a double layer of drywall to slow the spread of fire in multi-unit developments, specifically between the ceiling and attic space. However, judging by the gap, I'm guessing that you might have this done as a retrofit to block sound. There will be somewhere that the drywall is attached, and it's likely going to be metal tracks running every 16". Normally, we'd attach the tracks directly to the joists, but if this is was a decision made after the home was built, they may have elected to go over the drywall instead of making a mess removing the existing drywall.

If you want to patch the drywall, you can either install additional blocking between the drywall at this opening to give you something to screw into, or you can cut back the drywall to the current tracks and attach your patch there.

Edit: If you decide to use blocking between the drywall, some thin wood would be be easy to install, and you're not getting a lot of sound protection at this spot anyway. You'll want a piece of wood behind each sheet of drywall, and then screw through the drywall/wood/drywall/wood to give you a solid edge to work with. You can get longer drywall screws that can make it through the entire assembly in one shot. If you go with the long screws, I'd recommend using a clamp to hold it tight.


I am getting shocked on an outlet whose power is isolated at the breaker!

I got it figured out today. I had a warranty repair on my water heater recently and the guy got a couple of wires mixed up causing a neutral cross. After that no issues at all. Thanks guys! –


Do I really need to fill the tub with water to properly apply caulking?

While caulk is fairly elastic, it handles better under compression than tension. By filling the tub all the way, you expand the gap quite a bit. Once the caulk is applied and the tub drained, the caulk compresses.  During normal use, the caulk will likely never be in tension. As you'd have to add more weight than a tub full of water, before the caulk had to fill a gap larger than when it was applied.

Also, there's an old saying. "Happy wife, happy life" - Unknown


How do I remove the head from this Giacomini TRV?

It appears to me that the power head is held on to the valve body by the union nut just beneath the head. Water pump pliers should be able to loosen that nut.  Be sure to use back pressure.  To loosen turn CCW. Good Luck.


Insulating wooden beams / frame from concrete footings

I don't think the intent should be to separate wood and concrete.  I think that applies to encased wood  such as in footings where concrete retains moisture for some time.  Wood and concrete are used together all the time.
In your case its just wood on a flat surface but it doesn't really do much as it is a flat surface so water will sit there.
The plastic shims would be the best bet i suppose to raise up a bit but it seems you can't use them everywhere and it is a bit overkill.  You can possibly use strips of closed cell rigid?


Changing electric plug fixtures outside plate that was painted over and pulled off - nothing fits

Removing cover plates that have been "stuck" to the drywall by being painted over can be fairly simple. I'd suggest purchasing a simple utility knife from your local hardware store and carefully running that around the edge of the plate where it meets the drywall. This will cut the paint membrane and prevent the painted drywall surface from peeling or tearing when you remove the plate. Once you've done that, just unscrew the plate and remove.

As for replacing the plate, there are oversized replacement wallplates available to conceal larger openings. Just search for "oversized outlet plate" online to see some examples.


Why are there so many different types of screws (phillps/flat/hex/star/etc)?

Shamelessly ripped off from here, looks like the primary reason why we still have "bad" screws (flat head and Phillips) is that the "better" types of screws are simply more difficult/expensive to manufacture:

  The reason for the different styles is
  cost and torque.

  The slotted head screws are cheap and
  easy to make. But they're completely
  useless for powered screwdrivers and
  you can't put much torque on the screw
  without it either slipping out or
  stripping the head (and maring the
  surface of whatever you're screwing).
  [Mad]

  Phillips screws are self-centering,
  making powered screwdrivers possible.
  They're somewhat more expensive to
  produce than slotted-head. They tend
  to 'cam-out' easily under torque,
  making it hard to apply much torque.
  I've heard they were designed that way
  to prevent overtightning. However,
  it's not good for exposed fasteners to
  look stripped.

  Robertson-head and allen-head
  fasteners can handle more torque than
  phillips-head fasteners, but are more
  expensive. Because the bottom of the
  hole is flat (unlike the pointed end
  of the phillips), there's more contact
  area and so it's less likely to
  cam-out. The robertson-head is cheaper
  than the allen-head, but the
  allen-head has six points of contact
  rather than 4, making it less prone to
  rounding out the hole.

  The Torx-head fasteners solve the
  problem of rounding/stripping by
  having the flat bottom of the
  robertson/allen that reduces cam-out,
  but it has much better contact with
  the driving bit to prevent stripping
  the head. The points of the 'star' on
  the driving bit engage the recesses on
  the screw at nearly right angles, so
  it has a very positive contact. Torx
  is becoming more and more popular
  because of that, particularly in
  assembly-line work.

  Because they're less likely than a
  phillips to be damaged when
  tightening, the allen (internal hex)
  heads are often used for exposed
  ('decorative') fasteners on 'some
  assembly required' furniture. It's
  also very cheap to make the allen
  keys, so they usually include one with
  the fasteners.


What are the names for a light-duty hoist/pulley system components?

You could search for something called a block and tackle. This is a rope and multiple pulley system that gives you a mechanical advantage over a single pulley making it much easier to hoist the tire into place.

You should consider mounting four hooks on the ceiling overhead so that the block and tackle can be moved to the position where the tire will be resting on the shelf. The upper "hook" could even be a bar or pipe affixed to the ceiling in such manner that the top securing point for the block and tackle can be slid back and forth so that it can be pushed into position before hoisting each tire.


Can I have an office in my basement without egress?

You'll have to contact your local building department to be sure, but it's very likely that they'll require a second means of egress. They might also have localized information, on ways others in your area have dealt with the problem. It's not likely that you're the only person in your area that's wanted to add living space to their basement.

International Residential Code 2012
Chapter 3 Building Planning
Section 310 Emergency Escape and Rescue Openings
R310.1 Emergency escape and rescue required.
Basements, habitable attics and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening. Where basements contain one or more sleeping rooms, emergency egress and rescue openings shall be required in each sleeping room...
...Emergency escape and rescue openings shall open directly into a public way, or to a yard or court that opens to a public way.
Exception: Basements used only to house mechanical equipment and not exceeding total floor area of 200 square feet (18.58 m2).

Based on this code, as soon as a basement is used for more than housing mechanical equipment, egress is required. Though I think most places allow storage and such, and only get picky when a habitable space is added to the basement.
According to the IRC, habitable spaces include any space used for living, sleeping, eating, or cooking.  Non-habitable spaces include bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage and utility spaces, and any similar spaces.
According to Mass.gov, Massachusetts follows International Residential Code 2009 with some amendments. Though it doesn't appear that there are any amendments to the section quoted above.


Is it acceptable to not have access to the main water shutoff valve?

There are a lot of buildings that have this situation where people may be condo or townhouse owners.  The normal thing to do in your situation would be to upgrade your shut-off valve.  Maybe even install another one right before/after your first opening on the mainline.


How do I exchange a non polarized Christmas light plug with a polarized plug?

Because the original plug is non-polarized and can be plugged in either way, you can just use a polarized plug. It just limits you to plugging in one way.

The more important issue is the fuse. Because the lights were provided with a fuse, we have to assume it is unsafe to omit it. It is certainly against the electrical code to omit it.

You can buy an in-line fuse holder and splice it into the (now) hot wire, right next to the plug. Just make sure to get the same amperage fuse (rated to at least mains voltage).


Washing Machine Hookups Not Shutting Off

If the faucets that are in the lines to the washing machine hookup have been in the ON state for years the internal seals are likely deteriorated so that they no longer will function. If you have a water supply with a lot of minerals the water they may have deposited on the inside of the faucets to the point that it is not possible to turn them off.

To get past the immediate connection problem you can turn off the main supply valve where water pipes come into the property. However it would be strongly recommended to replace these faulty faucets as soon as possible. Last thing you need is to be standing there by your washer when a hose bursts and you cannot quickly shut off the faucets behind the washer.


Furring strips visible THRU drywall... On the FINISHED side!

My personal bet is that the cinder block is wicking water, which is wicking through the furring into the drywall. That will absolutely cause the issues you're describing.

My bet is there's no vapor barrier. You said there was no insulation and in-wall insulation is typically faced with tar paper, which is typically your vapor barrier.

If you're looking to fix this there's no easy way around tearing it down. You can leave the furring up, but I would add something like 6mil plastic over it before applying new drywall. You might also want to add some waterproofing membrane to the cinder block, to minimize the wicking.


Air compressor air filter and oil change

Compressors do need to have the oil changed usually based on hours of operation. Since it has been 10 years I would change the oil. The filter is hard to see in the photo. I usually blow air on my filters to clean them if working in dusty areas, Sawdust blows out easily dirt tends to build up. Shine a light in the filter can you see the light on the other side? If no time to replace. Maybe you will get another 10 years but I would change the oil a bit more often.


How do I modify a refrigerator water line to add a shut off valve and flexible pipe?

The solution is fairly simple. Cut the copper tubing about a foot from the floor and install an inline valve. Use a compression coupler type valve and run the remainder with plastic tubing. Food grade 1/4"  plastic tubing will fit well on a 1/4" compression or graduated/clamp fitting. These fitting are available at building box stores or RV stores.


How to route pipes through an already tiled wall?

They make tile cutting hole saws. they can be expensive but a good hole saw in say 1/2 inch pipe diameter will do the job, the trick will be keeping your drill straight against the tile and keeping the tile surface wet - PATIENCE is your friend here.

A couple links but not an endorsement .

Wet Or Dry Hole Saws

Diamond Hole Saws


Is it common to tile behind an OTR microwave?

I tile behind the ones I do.  First this takes little time.  The top couple inches don't have to be perfect.  I try to make everything look nice but in the grand scheme of things this is a few minutes of work and you already have the tiles, thinset, grout, and tools going so just do it.

Some issues I have come across not tiling:

The top row is almost always slightly slanted and the cuts can be hard to make look nice.
If you switch microwaves (the new OTR micros don't last long) and it doesn't reach the tiles what do you do?
If the microwave goes past the tile then your install can be slightly slanted back.  When you have tile behind there it is easy to jam the microwave in knowing you have a flat surface.
If you decide to take micro out and go with a hood you probably won't have enough leftovers to get all the way up.


Can I use my dishwasher solely for drying?

Absolutely!

Open the dishwasher.
Hand wash dishes.
Place wet, freshly washed items in the dishwasher racks.
Allow items to dry.

On a more serious note... Dishwashers are designed to wash dishes - it's right there in the name. There are some dishwashers that don't even have a "dry cycle", they're designed to wash, then allow the items to drip dry.
You might, with enough time, find a dishwasher that has a "dry only" cycle, but they're probably few and far between.
That said, you may want to contact the manufacturer to see if there is a magical incantation of buttons you can push to get a "dry only" run, but I'd doubt it.


LED & fluorescent bulbs blinking in a fixture - but I don't think it's the bulb. Advice?

I had the same issue after I remodeled my bathroom. The culprit was an illuminated switch-the switch glows when it is off so you can see it in the dark. Apparently it allows a small current through to illuminate, which in turn was triggering the CFL bulbs, causing them to 'blink' ever so slightly.


was this vent flashing installed totally wrong?

That was installed wrong.  The metal part of the boot should definitely be nailed down.  Since it is not nailed, the wind is free to blow it up.  When it moves up, the rubber seal can become inverted or otherwise deformed.  Repeated movement will end up prematurely cracking the rubber, and of course when the wind blows it up, water will get blown underneath it.

The rubber boot shouldn't need to be caulked if everything is secure.  Normally you'd see a few nails in the metal section, and those nail holes would be caulked.  There should also be a few nails covered up by the course of overlapping shingles.

Also, it's unclear from your photo, but the lower edge of the metal should not extend past the shingle that it is on top of.  if it does, then that row of shingles should have overlapped the metal.  When the metal overhangs the shingle, it gives wind and water more of a chance to lift and penetrate the boot.


I called an engineer and paid for his evaluation of the wall. It's not load bearing. Realized that I left out some basics about the house.

This house is built on a raised foundation with cripple walls attaching the floor joists to the foundation. The metal post is attached to the fireplace foundation (which is independent of the houses foundation). There is no foundation (just 3 feet of empty air) underneath the wall I want to remove. The header is just oddly sized.

The header does not connect to the beam.

From a sheer wall perspective he was not too concerned, given that the total amount of wall I want to remove is pretty minimal compared to the rest of the house.


Can I install insulation on the ceiling of an old unfinished basement?

Actually adding insulation is both beneficial for sound reduction and heat retention.  When you insulate your floors you prevent heat loss from your basement, especially if you live in Northern States where it gets cold like me.  This also helps keep rooms at even temperatures which makes your HVAC system operate more efficiently.  Also, if you're outside walls in your basement are not insulated then I wouldn't install it in the floor. As it would be more beneficial to get those outside walls done first then insulate the floor. You'd be well on your way to a finished basement as well.  Python is right about doing it completely or not at all.  Hope this helps!


Typical method of connecting outlets on the same circuit in a chain:

This is the main reason outlets are made with four terminals instead of two. (I bet you thought it was so the outlet could be split between two circuits by removing the tabs.)

Suppose you find that outlets 3 and 4 have stopped working, while 1 and 2 still have power. The failure is almost certainly at one of the terminals A, B, C, or D -- in other words, at the last live outlet in the chain or at the first dead one.

This is a very common failure in home wiring when the builder has used the backstab terminals on the outlets instead of the screw terminals. The only excuse for ever using the backstab terminals is that your cheapass boss will fire you if you take the time to wire it right.

Many professional electricians recommend wiring outlets like this:

Those hookup wires from the terminal screws to the wire nuts are called "pigtails". They should be about 6" long.

Wire nuts are certainly more reliable than backstabs. There is some disagreement over whether wire nuts are more reliable than screw terminals. The pigtails may be a bit of overkill but they allow removal of a problematic outlet without affecting the rest of the circuit.


Tile to tongue & groove paneling transition and window casings

I’d recommend gutting the walls down to the studs and building directly off of them.  This will make all of your transitions easier. You can hang 1/4” backer board for the tile and use a Schlueter edge to finish them off really nicely. Your tile surface will be the same thickness as the paneling, so nothing fancy needed there.  Not to mention, you won’t have to do all the crazy math needed to get your tiled area to the right dimension for the top side of the groove to overlap, just install each material in the layout that makes it look the best.
As for the casing, if you go this route you can use standard install methods as if you were going over drywall. If you’re worried the casing won’t lay down nicely, you have 2 options.  The easiest would be to to put a 1/2” shim strip around the windows that won’t extend past the edge of the casing. Then, put your casing on and do the paneling and tiles right up to the casing.  If you’re worried about cut edges, you can rabbet out 1/4” of the back side of the outer edge of the casing to make up for the difference in thicknesses and do your walls before finishing off with the casing.
The benefit of the extra demo doesn’t just end at the ease of the transitions.  You’re looking at adding a large amount of additional dead weight to this room regardless of how you do this. By getting rid of all that drywall, you’ll be keeping the loads a lot closer to what they are now.  This might not be of any consequence now, or even over the next couple of years.  But eventually, all of that additional dead load can lead to excessive settlement of the structure.


Install air admittance valve to solve musty smell (sewer gas)?

The washing machine sends water into that drain under quite a bit of pressure and you want air moving freely through the pipe. You would be better off if you could run a new vent pipe up that wall and out the roof, or you could go as high as possible then out through the wall, presuming it isn't too close to a door or window that opens (since sewer gases exit the vent pipe on a regular basis).

Barring that, however, you should certainly put an AAV on this. I've had a plumbing inspector approve exactly this kind of setup for a washing machine drain on a remodel. The inspector required 4 feet of vertical pipe between the AAV and the wye that tied it into the drain pipe, though.

Your diagram may not be intended to be to scale, but I'd say you definitely want the AAV higher than what you're showing. I certainly wouldn't try to get away with putting the AAV under the sink.


Go to the living room and put a 9v battery on one of the pairs of wires.  Then with a voltmeter, go through the cables in that closet one by one until you find the one that measures 9v across that pair of wires.


How do you calculate if it's worth it to insulate?

Insulating the roof will be worth it - you will save significantly on heating and cooling, and doing it while the roof is open is the best time. There are other things you can do at the same time to maximize the return on the roof insulation. Reducing the chimney effect from basement to roof-line with proper air sealing will multiply the savings.

One caveat: if your roofing contractor does not know if it's worth it, he's the wrong person to be installing insulation. The right insulation, installed properly, is worth it. The wrong insulation installed incorrectly is not worth it, for example, it's easy to make R-19 fiberglass batt insulation insulate as poorly as an R-2. As a rule of thumb, if his prior experience says that customers aren't getting a good payback on insulation, then he or his subcontractor is not insulating properly.

You don't want to just "insulate" - you want to get an energy audit and do the kind of insulation and air sealing that's needed for your house in your climate.

There are tons of incentive programs in NY state (http://www.dsireusa.org/library/includes/map2.cfm?CurrentPageID=1&State=NY&RE=1&EE=1), as well as special low-interest loans run through the utility companies that you pay via your utility bill - and whose payments are designed not to exceed the amount saved by the efficiency measures you make.

There are also federal tax rebates for energy efficiency measures. Find a BPI or RESNET HERS certified auditor to assess your house and help you figure out how to maximize your savings.  Between rebates and energy savings, you'll find that insulating is one of the smartest investments you can make for your family.


Add grounding to a 9th floor apartment in country with no electric code at all

Pick an electrical code

Pick an electrical code and follow it.  Pick one where your wiring system is normal.  If your power is 110/220V split-phase (220V with the neutral center-tapped with 110V on each side), then follow a North American code.  If your power is all 220V between neutral and "hot", then follow an EU code.

On split-phase, neutral is serious business

One of the scary things to be found in the North American split-phase system is if you lose a neutral wire.  The 120V circuits become imbalanced, and half of them are more than 120V and the other half are less (but they total 240V).  And they teeter-totter back and forth as devices blow out until eventually everything smokes.  Losing neutral is serious business, and if you can't get reliable neutral from the building owner, you may have to use the outer 240V(220V) lines and manufacture your own 110V service with your own transformer.

This is not an issue if you're supplied single phase 220V from a European style system, if you lose neutral you lose power.

Any shock is deadly shock

People often get "small" shocks and go "well, that's not dangerous".  Yes, it is. Remember, electricity needs to complete a circuit.  It flows when two things are connected.  You made a solid connection with a deadly amount of current from the TV/fridge, however, your connection back to ground/earth wasn't very good, so not much current could flow. Different deal if there's water on the floor or you happen to be touching the sink.

So any appliance that gives you a shock, is a 5-alarm fire and needs to be Dealt With Right NOW before someone else has a "better" connection!

GFCI's are great for shock hazard reduction

A GFCI (RCD in Europe) compares the current flow on the "hot" wire, to the current flow on the "neutral" wire.  In normal operation, they are exactly the same; that's what it means to complete a circuit.  Current seeks to follow all possible paths, regardless of resistance.  If current finds an alternate path (like through you), some of it will go that way, and the GFCI will see that the "hot" flow and the "neutral" flow is not the same, and it will trip.  This means  your shocking experience won't last for very long.

Note I don't mention ground at all.  Like the honey badger, GFCI's don't know or care about ground.  Obviously, ground may be part of the fault path, but the GFCI doesn't care about that, it cares that the current is NOT the same on hot and neutral.  This means GFCI's do not need ground at all.   They are often used to provide safety when a ground is not available - in fact, they provide far better safety when dealing with plastic-chassis equipment, since they are actually looking for electrocution situations.

GFCIs do not provide equipment grounding, however, and sometimes equipment cares about that.  Particularly, sensitive electronic equipment which does not like ESD (electro-static discharge, or that zap you get when you shuffle your feet across a carpet then touch a doorknob).  That's a ground for a different kind of reason: not personnel protection, but equipment protection.  That ground does not need to be tied to the electrical system "neutral".  An example of that would be the microcomputer inside a large machine tool connected to 480 3-phase (plain) "delta" power, all 3 wires of which are hot. (let's say that's protected by GFCI so a hot-chassis fault in the motor won't kill the operator). The computer is powered by a small transformer off 2 legs of the 480 delta, which isolates it from everything.  The computer needs a ground to give ESD somewhere to go.

Get a better ground than concrete

Concrete does have some conductivity, but I wouldn't rely on it for a long distance.  Anyway, "9 storeys tall" means not wood.  1940 probably means steel not concrete. The steel frame is most likely your best source of an equipment ground.  You can use reinforcing rod in a building designed for this but they weren't really thinking about that in 1940.

Do Not tie neutral to ground!

Neutral must be tied to ground in exactly one location: the main panel, as in the building's main panel.  That's because Neutral Is Not Ground, and there is a voltage difference between neutral and ground.  If you tie neutral and ground together in a second location, that voltage difference will result in current flowing, and potentially a surprising amount, since it could involve the whole building's current return!  This means ground is handling current on a regular basis, which it's not meant to do.  This also breaks any GFCI protection upstream.

You only tie neutral to ground in the main service, which is directly next to the supply transformers.  This is necessary since a supply transformer isolates the input power from the output power.  It would "float" (at indeterminate voltage from ground) unless you peg it to ground with a ground strap/bond.

Anytime you have current flowing on a neutral-ground bond, that is a very bad thing and needs to be corrected immediately.


What is the difference between dimmable and non-dimmable CFL bulbs?

Do not use a non-dimmable CFL with a dimmer.  It shortens the CFL's life, and, in rare cases, a dimmer operating a CFL could result in fire.  Change it out with a switch to be safe.

Dimmable CFLs aren't as good as incandescent for dimming.  Their lowest settings are nowhere near that of incandescent, but they are good if you want the option to save on power and still be able to dim the lighting.  Sometimes you will have to turn up the light to get it to kick on and then dim it.  They can also be audible at their lowest setting.  If you buy some, save the receipt as you may not like their drawbacks.


Found Lath and Plaster wall under remodel drywall. Is it restorable?

The closeup looks like cement based backer board used to hold tile in wet/damp locations. If so, that is not original.

It would be very hard to restore to lathe/plaster throughout, especially if sections are missing. The transition points for repairs tend to crack and show lines. Also, wire mesh is used more than wood lath today. Finding a skilled plasterer will be a challenge.

The biggest difference in the appearance between old plaster and drywall is surface smoothness (unless you count cracks and slight waves in plaster). Almost all drywall has a paper surface that is very slightly textured when painted. To get a plaster-like look, you can skim coat the entire surface of drywall instead of just the joints. This is called a Level 5 finish. A discussion of levels of drywall finish can be found here.

Painting also has a role in appearance. Rollers often leave a very slight stippling. This can be overcome by using an additive that improves leveling. Spraying also gives a smoother finish than rolling or brushing.

Once all is done, you only see the surface, so unless this is an historic gem, you might consider top quality drywalling and finishing. If you are working in a damp location, special drywall types are available that are moisture resistant.


What is this name of this vent attachment next to my furnace?

That's your fresh air supply for your gas appliances. Newer high efficiency appliances are directly vented so you don't have the cold air dumping directly into your home. But for older style gas appliances, you have to have a fresh air supply to your utility room for combustion.


Getting UPS Power from One Room to Another

You need an inlet in Room A, not an outlet

You'll need an outlet box with an inlet in it in Room A so that you can plug the output of the UPS into it with a proper cord (read: if you have to do weird crap to your cord to plug the output of the UPS into the wall, stop, because that's a sign you're doing it wrong!).  From there, you can use a suitable chapter 3 wiring method (assuming the crawlspace is not wet, NM/Romex will do; use UF aka "outdoor Romex" instead if it is wet/damp, though) to connect the inlet box in Room A to an ordinary box+receptacle in Room B.


Window AC Clearances

You should check the manual that came with the AC, it might tell you minimum clearances. My window AC unit only says:

  Side louvers and the rear of the air conditioner must have clear air space to allow enough airflow through the condenser, for heat removal.

I would say that 1" does not meet that requirement, particularly if the sides of the sleeve extend out past the end of the AC.

Sizing the AC

You didn't directly ask about the difference between the window units and the thru-wall models, but I agree with @Vitality that the price jump probably has a lot to do with the size of the unit. If you're trying to cool 750 ft^2 you're going to want to get a bigger unit than the $99 budget models they sell at Walmart. According to this Energy Star chart, you'll need a unit with around 18,000 BTUs/hr of cooling. If you get a unit that's too small it will just run and run but not cool or dehumidify the apartment, wasting you money. Plus it will probably burn out the compressor faster since it's not getting a break.

How To Cool An Apartment

Besides the AC, here are things that can help you keep the apartment cool:

Get curtains and close them during the day, especially if you're not home. Preferably blackout curtains. Lots of heat enters the house as solar radiation and you can prevent it if you keep the light out. If you're on a budget, Home Depot et al sell blackout roller blinds that are pretty reasonable.
Switch your light bulbs to LEDs (or CFL, if your budget requires... but spring for the LEDs if you can, they're better and will save you money). A 100 watt incandescent light bulb puts out almost 350 BTUs/hr in heat. If you have a bunch of those on, that's going to really going to add up.
If the temperature is cool at night, fans in the window can help exhaust hot air and bring in cool air from outside. I'm not a big fan of fans just circulating air inside, like ceiling fans and tower fans, since they don't actually cool the air. But some people like to feel the breeze. Definitely shut those fans off when you leave otherwise you're just wasting electricity and heating up the room.
Use the stovetop exhaust fan when you're cooking. It will remove the hot, humid air. Same thing for exhaust vents in the bathroom during/after a shower.
Basically anything else that reduces your electrical usage will also reduce heat in the apartment. E.g. I like to put my rice cooker on the porch even if I'm not eating outside.


Well pump cycles, presure switch on and off ,contacts keep breaking in the pressure switch

With a rapid on off cycling of the pressure switch the bladder has usually failed or lost its air charge.  (Bladder or diaphragm).
Turn the power to the pump off and drain the water pressure open a spigot.

Now use an air compressor , bicycle tire pump or some method to pump up the tank to ~38 psi.  There is normally a small valve like a tire valve stem on the top of the tank. This is where to add the air. If you leave the spigot open and air starts coming out or you can not pressurize to 38 psi the bladder or diaphragm has failed.
If you stain 38 psi close the spigot and let the tank fill it should now cycle normally.

On older diaphragm tanks that had failed I had charged them and the system will cycle close to normal but the charge will be lost if the water level in the tank gets low and over time the air dissolving in the water will require recharging but this may provide some time to save for a new tank I am not sure if a bladder tank will have enough volume for this to work but may be worth a try.

I would not leave a system with a failed tank powered up as the rapid on off will damage the pump and the switch contacts along with creating a large number of voltage spikes that can damage sensitive electronics in the home.


Use a Steam Dryer hose for washer fill hose?

You absolutely can use these hoses. In fact, I would recommend them as they appear to be high quality and durable.

The only drawback with any slight restriction would be that it may take slightly longer for your washer to fill, small price to pay versus a burst hose.

PS- you should still turn off the water supply valve(s) whenever you will be gone for more than a few hours.


How can I more easily install a Nema 6-50 outlet?

You can't use that cable for a new outlet.  It needs to go to the scrapper.
You'll need to re-run it with proper wire or cable, such as 6/2 w/ ground.
Given your complaints about the stiffness of #6 wire, I'd suggest running some sort of conduit, such as "smurf tube", and run individual THHN wires in the conduit.  That would do a couple of things for you.   First, you'd be able to use #8 stranded wire for 50A, since THHN is allowed a higher operating temperature.  Second, you could defer the "neutral" question and simply add the neutral wire later if needed.


I have found this a few times with incandescent lights and dimmers, most dimmers are SCR so they are turning on and off each cycle, the noise was actually coming from the element in the light, I did not quite believe it the first time I found this but figured it was because of the fancy shape of the chandelier lamps. A few years later I had it happen on some long life lamps the ones made to last 10 years with heavy filaments. And the last time was on a standard 60w clear lamp, all of these were on a dimmer and were quite noisy (I have poor hearing and could clearly hear them). So I would look at the lights as they may be the cause, change the level or turn off to see if it changes the noise.


What should be done when clothes wrinkle from being too long in a tumble dryer?

Steam is the best agent for getting wrinkles out of clothes, but dry heat comes in a distant second.  Many newer dryers have a dedicated "touch-up" setting, which runs at medium-to-high heat for about ten minutes, precisely because it's very common to leave clothes in the dryer overnight.  That touch-up will be a dry heat, of course, so it's not quite as effective as steam, but you'll be amazed at the difference it makes.

Adding a wet (wrung out or from the spin cycle - NOT sopping wet!) towel will improve your results significantly, but you'll need to 1) run the dryer for a bit longer to allow the wet towel to start steaming, and 2) steer a careful course between letting your other clothes get wet, and letting the whole batch get dry.

I would pop in the towel and start the dryer, then come back in 10-15 minutes and start pulling clothes out a few at a time - letting the dryer run in between while I folded or hung them up.  Leave the towel for last; if you have another load waiting to dry, let it finish with that load.


how can i set up dusk to dawn outdoor lighting ?

Any way you like.

Connect your in-wall timer to a relay with a 1-pole coil that
controls two poles.
Replace your timer with a two-pole timer.

To me, either of those are "simpler" than anything having to be done to three separate locations...but none of it is very complex.

Add photosensors.
Replace the lights with fixtures that have built-in sensors (if they are not currently LED light fixtures, that's one
more reason to consider this approach.)
depending why you have them and what purpose they are serving, use motion sensors instead of photosensors so the lights are only on when needed. Lower electric bill and less light pollution.


Should dryer vent hose be half embedded in drywall?

While perhaps functional at present, the current arrangement does not allow for easy maintenance, which will be required after a couple years of filling with lint. It appears that it would be almost impossible to remove and replace the hose to clean it out when it clogs with lint (which WILL happen sooner or later) without cutting into the drywall.  IMO that's sufficient reason to insist your contractor re-route it.


How to I fit a drawer into this cabinet? (Kitchen - no side panel)

I'm sure someone with better google-fu will be able to chime in with a quick link, but I too have exhausted all my usual suspects looking for what I would call a "rear mount bracket" (For example, Blum part # 295.3750.01, but only on the Blum US site.)

Anyway, a bit of bodging would have you place an L bracket against the back panel (with the caution that the back might be very thin/flimsy) and catch the drawer runner.

A long enough L bracket could go from the underside of the worktop to the runner, but you'd have to be careful that the bolt attaching the runner and the bracket doesn't interfere with the operation of the drawer.

Alternately, put a section of wood vertically beside the drawer and flush to the edge of the opening to mimic a cabinet side. You could use a couple of L brackets to hang this from the underside of the worktop and it should be more than solid enough to carry a drawer.


Digital TV pixelation of picture at Manchester using Winter Hill

Digital TV, unlike analog, tends to be all-or-nothing. If you've got strong enough signal you get perfect rendering; if you don't you get the kinds of symptoms you've described and the only fix is to get stronger signal (better antenna, possibly an external RF booster amp, switch to a set that has better amps internally, or give up on over-the-air).


Which subcontractor installs 2" foam board at footings and on poured walls?

The concrete contractor does, it goes in over the gravel bed and under the poly moisture barrier and reinforcing wire or rebar. There also needs to be foam at the edge of the floor slab to create a thermal break between the foundation wall and floor slab.

Depending on your conditions, you may need drain tile under the slab too.


Best place to check would be the with where you purchased the shelves from. Failing that I'd say the length of the screws would be a decent indication of how much weight they can carry from my experience, along with the type of bracket etc.


You have to use the right size wire nuts, and you have to put them on correctly. If you recall correctly, you have the right size, so you may not have put it on firmly enough. Another common problem is not having all the wires at the same length, so that one is not as well connected. Only when connecting stranded and solid should the stranded be just a bit longer/further into the nut than the solid wire(s).

You may find it easier to use a nut with "Wings" that make it easier to twist forcefully.

Do NOT pre-twist the wires. The wires, stripped to proper length (per instructions of the wire connector - look on the box) and aligned with each other are twisted BY the wirenut as it's installed (some instructions may say "pretwist optional" but in point of fact I find that it works best if the twisting is all done by the wirenut.)

Tape does nothing to prevent or solve a poor connection.


What would cause the bottom half of a radiator cool down after heating up?

One pipe steam pipes have to maintain a consistent pitch down from the radiator to the boiler. My guess is when you put the new radiator in you let that existing pipe drop down a little bit. Now it starts to get hot but once the little well of condensed steam(water) forms at the low point, it gets blocked and stops getting hot.

Another possibility is that the vent is closing too soon and not letting all the air out. Should be an adjustment.


raise floor level and floor over cavity, is there a better solution?

I'm not sure what "chipboard" is, but your plan is ok if you use a structural sheet material (OSB or plywood). The span across the wall void is wide enough that you should find a way to support the sheet at the far side, though, or it's likely to flex a fair bit.


How Much Power Do LED Drivers Draw When Not Loaded?

12V constant-current power supplies have a small "standby" power usage of a watt or three depending on quality, when all the DC loads are switched off.  You can measure this by plugging it into a Kill-a-Watt. Other than that, they draw whatever power is used on the DC side, plus a few percent for conversion losses.
12V LED strips typically use a constant-voltage power supply, which is simply called a power supply. They are often marketed as "drivers" because it sounds cooler, but that's wrong.  Any 12V power supply will work for LED strips.
(a real driver is a constant-current source and must be custom-matched to a very particular array of raw LEDs. LED strips don't work that way).


Some battery-operated alarms use a radio signal to interconnect so they're all set off together. You should be able to verify/test this using the test button: press it on one, and if the others go off then you know they're interlinked.

As far as what's triggering them, there's a few possibilities:

Dust in in the sensors. Recent renovations especially can cause dust to get on the sensors, making them very sensitive to even a slight change in the air. Using a vacuum to clean them out can often remedy this.
Signal from other nearby units. If you have wireless interconnect, they may be on the same frequency as neighbour's alarms. There should be a method to change the code they use (often some dip switches on the back).
Bad location. Smoke alarms should be located a minimum of 4" away from a edge of the wall/ceiling, inside corners, and the peak of a vaulted ceiling to avoid the dead air space. Good airflow is important.
Wireless interference. Apparently some brands can be sensitive to interference from other electronics, and it's best to relocate the alarm or electronics.
Defective alarm. It's possible one or more alarm is simply defective. Most smoke alarms have a 10-year age limit.


Here's a picture of an antique doorknob assembly. As @PhilippNagel commented, these should screw off once you remove the setscrew. If it's not unscrewing, double-check the other doorknob and remove a setscrew from that one, then hold both knobs and unscrew. One of them should come off.


Kenmore: freezer working, refrigerator not due to frozen air return...replacement needed?

In my experience, "frost free" refrigerators frequently benefit from an occasional through (manual with carefully applied gentle heat, or "move all the food somewhere else and leave open for 24-48 hours") defrosting. I've honestly had far less problems with problematic frost build up in "manual defrost" refrigerators, (which normally have separate cooling coils for the freezer and fridge rather than air ducts that bring moist fridge air into the freezer to make frost) but you can hardly find one of those new these days.

Anyway, I'd suspect that you are correct, and the door got left open a bit. Or leaks a bit.

I don't know what you mean by "checking the door seals with your hand" - the "standard" test I know is to use paper (typically paper money) closed in the door and make sure there is resistance to pulling it out all the way around.


Should I bleach my deck or just power wash it?

"Green mold" on a deck is almost certainly algae, not mold.

A bleach-water mixture (not straight bleach - perhaps 1 cup per gallon at the most, considerably less might be sufficient) will kill the algae and make it much easier to remove.

I happen to know someone who (evidently) is a big fan of pressure-washers and not much of a fan of bleach or scrub brushes. They'll go 3 days with the pressure washer to do what one day with bleach and a scrub-brush would do more effectively, and the traces of algae that are left behind recolonize in short order. You can be that guy, or not...


Connect Sonoff and physical switch with a lamp

You really can't do it that way. Your wall switch physically cuts the power off so that means the wifi switch isn't on anymore. What you could do is rewire the switch to remove the physical component (in other words the device would always be hot) and replace it with a compatible wifi switch like this one.

The catch here is you'll almost certainly need a neutral in the light switch box. Make sure you have one or you'll be re-running wire to that box to make this work.


Ways to reduce noise in a home near railroad tracks?

I lived about the same distance (maybe a bit more) from train tracks for several years.  Most of the trains were commuter trains, with two freight trains daily mixed in.  The biggest thing to remember is that you're going to tune them out to a large degree as commented above.  The advantage with the mostly commuter train composition of traffic was that they stopped at about 1:00am until 5:30am.

Double paned windows and window coverings were the only physical changes that made a difference.  The windows also helped with heating/cooling and energy savings.


Can I add a standard receptacle on a GFCI circuit

You should never chain two GFCI circuits together.  When you install a GFCI circuit, you should only ever chain standard outlets off of them.  Multiple GFCI on the same circuit can cause each other to trip.

So yes, what you want to do is actually what you should do.

What you do need to do, however, is make sure you connect the new outlet to the LOAD terminals on the GFCI outlet.  That will put the new outlet on GFCI protection.

You should also sticker the new outlets as GFCI protected.

See in the above how the duplex (standard) outlet is fed from the GFCI, NOT the main line.

And in case it's unclear- the 3 gfci in the pic are not chained - they are connected in parallel.  Only the standard outlet is "chained" - or connected in serial.


Does a router smooth edges significantly more than a jigsaw?

Tried to make this a comment but must have been to long. So here goes.
I think a router would be what you are looking for. There are bits that will cut a 45 and a curved edge. Both will help with the sharp edge. Some bits control the depth with a shaft (cheaper ones) some control with a small bearing. The trick is to figure out the direction of cut to make the cleanest cut, cut two deep and the cut is rough and the router gets away from you. I usually plan on a rough cut to get most of the material off and then a second cut to get a smooth edge. I like carbide bits with a bearing the best but have had good luck with High speed steel on softer wood. A router is great for trimming laminate counter tops so that could be a future project.


Are hairline cracks in basement concrete floor a problem - no water coming in

Concrete slabs crack. Period. For this reason, "control joints" are often cut or tooled into slabs where aesthetics are a concern. They encourage cracks to occur along straight lines where they create less of a visual blemish and can better be accommodated by expansion joints in rigid flooring.

In your case, it's not likely a concern.


Can I hang 100lb boxing bag from wood ceiling beam?

I've hung a few heavy items in cases like this by installing 4"x4" or 6"x6" joist hangers facing each other between two joists and installing the appropriate beam into them. Then drill through the beam, install an eye bolt with washer and nut on the back. Hang the item.

This is similar to what I did but I used a 6x6 and ran my eye bolt all the way through.


Can someone name this part of the roof please?

I'm not sure there's an official standard name for this specific scenario, but I'd call it a purlin or an elevated wall plate, maybe. A diagram in this discussion has it as a raised top plate. This article discusses purlins as an intermediate rafter support member.
jwh20 is right in that this is a non-standard roof framing method, but there are a few reasons it may have been done (one of which you mentioned--attic space). Another is to create an "energy heel" or "raised heel", where there's more vertical space for insulation. Yet another would be to raise the fascia/soffit height to clear windows or improve appearance (in the case of a very steep pitch). In your case the ceiling joists may have been run through to create backing for the soffit, which is often added later at a lower level.


Shut-off valve fitting waxed hemp vs unwaxed hemp vs teflon tape?

Hemp is natural fiber will last but adding wax helps to lubricate and will last longer , for the longest lasting valve stem packing I use PFTE. PFTE rope not tape although tape will work with enough wraps the "rope" comes in different sizes, PFTE won't freeze like hemp that has some water in it, PFTE in a powered form is a great lubricant where hemp can be a bit abrasive over the years. Both are goodproducts but I would use Teflon over hemp and the best option would be the rope or round PFTE products tape will work but it takes a lot of wraps.


Can I install a brick with a corner missing by filling the gap with mortar?

Yes, you can backfill the broken brick with mortar and use it. Masons have done just that since they were using natural stone.

An occasional mortar joint of an inch and half isn't the end of the world. Foundations that step vertically over rough footings often have large gap fills. The key is good mortar quality, and to understand that it may look odd. Avoid non-standard layout if you can.


Are there any dangers associated with rigid foam insulation?

According to the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for TRYMER(TM) 3000 Rigid Polyisocyanurate
Insulation, there should be no problems (for this specific product anyway).

I also found the MSDS of an example Expanded Polystyrene Board, which does mentions off-gas issues. Though it only applies to large amounts of "fresh" polystyrene, being stored in a "confined, unventilated area".

  fresh  polystyrene contains residual pentane and if large  amounts of
  EPS materials are stored in a confined,  unventilated area such as a
  semi-trailer truck,  pentane may off-gas and create measurable
  airborne  concentrations.

If you know the specific product you'd like to use, it shouldn't be that difficult to find the MSDS for it on the internet.


The drain loop is taking the place of a vacuum breaker you'd see on the counter. The loop really has no bearing on how the machine drains. It only stops (hopefully) water from flowing back to the DW from the drain. The pump is obviously working correctly as you mentioned when you checked with a bucket. What you didn't mention or check was whether  the DW was empty of water. In fact unless the water level inside is sloshing around, some residual water will most likely remain simply because the impellers cant force small amounts of liquid out the hose. Some will remain in the sump at the case bottom and then pumped out on the next drain cycle. Your first and only loop should be above the drain where the hose enters the sink drain. Make the top of the loop touch the counter top underside. Unless your DW pump is faulty or damaged it will expel water easily through the loop and down the drain.


Replacing existing ceiling fan but there’s no junction box

Indeed this is a code violation and shows that some previous cowboy owner or DIYer installed it in an inappropriate manner.

To get this right you would have to install an electrical box rated for hanging a fan mounted in the ceiling. The box should have a built in or applied cable clamp to secure the wire.

If you have access to the attic area above this ceiling the best way I've used to secure the electrical box in place for hanging a fan or heavy lighting fixture is to cut several pieces of wood that span across the ceiling joists as shown in the picture below. The top piece is screwed to the upper side of the joists and the lower piece is screwed to the upper piece. The lower piece is typically part of a 2x4 ripped for width and sits on edge under the flat upper 2x4. After careful measurement and cutting the two pieces can be pre-assembled before installing over the electrical box hole.


If you use long enough lags to get a good bite into the stud, your first proposed method should be fine. If the "lever" action is high enough to snap a lag bolt, then it will be strong enough to snap the 2x3 as well.

From a strength perspective, it doesn't matter how long the lag bolt is - the torque and shear at the junction of the wall/bracket interface is all that matters. It doesn't matter if the lag bolt sticks out 3" from the wall, or if just the bracket sticks out 3" from the wall. You get the same torque applied from the same downward force if you assume the lag/bracket/mantel assembly is one rigid body. And if it's not, then something internal in the shelf has already failed, and you don't need to worry about the torque loading on the lag at the wall.

If you wanted to use shorter lags for some reason, you could always countersink them by drilling into the 2x3 with a bit larger than the lag head.


Ideas for levelling partial flooring for kitchen furniture

If it's not visible, just got for a manufactured board, e.g. plywood, OSB, etc.  For 3cm, you may be looking at two pieces stacked on top of each other.  If it's on concrete, install a moisture barrier first.  To secure the boards, I'd avoid the temptation to use a Ramset and permanently drive the names into the cement, since the next time the flooring is redone, you can take the opportunity to do it right and pull everything up and go wall to wall.  Instead, secure it with a few cut nails.  Again, this all assumes that none of this is visible.

(source: jmnails.com)


Why does my garage still have power when the house main is shut off?

To me it sounds like your true main disconnect is at the meter location. My farm has this same setup, I have a 200 amp breaker that feeds the house panel, I have a 125 amp breaker that feeds my shop panel and a 3rd that used to feed a mobile home that was here for a few years. To turn the power off to my shop I have to open the panel below my power meter to access the breakers. Some have the breakers on a side access door but this is where you should find your disconnect since turning off your main did not kill the power. Unless of course you have a second meter but that would show up on your power bill as a 2nd service.


Existing 20amp tandem breaker with 14/2 wires for basement light

Breaker is the wrong size
The core problem is #14 wire on 20A breakers - you have to address that!
Extending the circuit with #12 does not fix the problem!  You must deal with the #14/20A problem.
The only feasible answer is to replace the relevant 20A breaker(s) with 15A breaker(s).  And this opens up another can of worms:
All the breakers need to be replaced anyway.
The "Challenger" breakers are known fire-starters and must be eliminated with the ferocity one would use on an FPE panel. The good news is, with Challenger, there's nothing wrong with the basic bones of the panel, so you only need to change the breakers.
And in even better news, the proper breaker is super easy to come by, since all BRyant/Eaton "BR" breakers are also Type C, the correct type for your panel. This is approved by UL, and fully documented.
Better news still, Eaton BR breakers are cheap - $5 a trip typically.
So you're talking under $100 to replace all the faulty breakers with the correct BR duplex breakers, either 15/15, 15/20 or 20/20 as the wires require.  And you'll be able to take care of all the overbreakering wire problems at the same time.
You also need to replace the Siemens/Murray MHT breaker in lower left - that was never legal or safe in this panel. Someone went "Challenger is obsolete, I'll just use whatever" because they didn't know the above.

The main breaker is also of the Challenger type deemed a firestarter. Swapping that is more complicated. The power company will have to turn off power at the meter.  Consult with the local Eaton dealer for the correct breaker for this; note the bolt-down feature which is required.  I would expect a BR2100, and $40ish.


Can I use #12 wire to connect switches for 30A motors?

Factory lift switches are typically 10ga stranded. You got a lot of heat out there, just stick to 10. The 12 will work, but you'll end up killing your motor capacitors by the end of the first season or two.


How cold does it need to be to damage hoses?

Can you turn off the water supply to the hose? Or is the tap at the "business" end of the hose?

If it's the former then you can turn off the supply to the hose and leave the tap at the end of the hose open. This means that if there is any water left in the hose it will a) drain away and b) (more importantly) be able to expand safely along the length of the hose if it freezes.

So as long as there aren't any kinks in the hose it should survive the winter.


Setting up an ecobee and need to adjust HVAC wiring

You're spot on

Hooking the existing blue wire up to the C terminal alongside the white wire that's already there will do what you want and get you that C wire for your Ecobee.


What is the proper way to start sheathing an exterior wall?

The code allows 3 basic configuration: 1) Configuration 1: long edge of panels installed horizontally across supports and each succeeding course staggered 1/2 panel LENGTH, 2) Category 2: long edge of panels installed horizontally and each succeeding course staggered 1/2 width of SHORT edge, and 3) Category 6 (I know, stupid numbering system, but Categories 3, 4 and 5 are just for loading from opposite direction.) Long edge of panels installed horizontally across supports and each succeeding course NOT staggered.

Most installations are Category 1, but the critical criteria in all categories is that the panels MUST fully meet (lap) the sill plate, both top plates and 1/2 of stud at ends. (Please stagger nailing into studs where the panels end, to avoid splitting of stud.)

This doesn't tell you HOW to do it, but I hope it tells you WHAT you need to do...and I think your question was asking HOW...

By the way, if you are using staples, the crown must be PARALLEL to the long dimension of the supports.


What should I do with the grounding wire when connecting an ungrounded light fixture?

You do nothing with it.

What you're doing violates electrical code and invalidates the UL listing of the components. However, most light fixtures don't require ground wires because they're "double insulated", so you'll just tuck it away or cut it short.


Holes in gas grill burner replacement constitute a leak?

Those openings are the air inlet.  The gas line ends in a small diameter opening that inserts into the burner assembly.  The small gas opening causes the gas to flow out at a high velocity, which causes the pressure to be a bit lower at that point because of the Bernoulli effect.  So instead of gas leaking out, air actually flows in to mix with the gas before it gets to the burner exit where the mixture burns.  There should be an adjustable metal sleeve which partially covers the opening.  By moving the sleeve to let more or less air in, you can adjust the flame until you have the right ratio of air to gas.


How many wires should be in a new thermostat cable?

If you're building a new building and having new HVAC installed, I would simply put 1/2" conduit in the wall and be done. That way, you let the installer run the wire they need. I don't know that I would do this without at least consulting an HVAC installer to see where they would put the unit and the air return (typically the thermostat is as near the return as possible).

If you're going to just pre-run wire and dictate where the return will be and the HVAC unit will sit, I would run 18/5 wire if you know you will have a AC + gas heat, and 18/8 if you know you will have a heat pump (if you're in doubt, more will not hurt). Your most basic setup on most modern units needs 4 control wires plus the fifth blue "C" wire that provides power to the thermostat. It won't cover anything elaborate like a heat pump, but your greatest risk would be the installer uses your wire to pull the wire they actually need.


Question about applying new siding where a picture window is not level

The answer to this question really is a matter of opinion but there are some things that can be considered.

You could plan the siding installation so as to split the difference so that it is just half noticeable.
If the siding is relatively wide respect to the 1" difference in the window out of level amount you could plan the siding runs so that you keep there from being a narrow strip near the bottom of the window. Wider will be much less obvious. If you get lucky with this scheme you would end up also with a wider run above the window as well but if not then aim to optimize at the bottom as that would be more likely to be seen head on.
The most invasive would be to check if the window is also not even with the floor inside the house. If it is uneven inside similar to the outside you could then elect to remove and re-position the window make it more even.


How should I get my ejector pump out of the sump?

I recommend using a wet-vac to empty the pit. If you don't have one and the pump was installed correctly the pipe would have a union fitting along it somewhere above the water line -- although not the best way to do things, the pump can often be lifted out by its pipe.


Well water sanitizing and ph balancing questions

Clorinated organic compounds.  Some are carcinogens.  Some are nerve toxins.  That said, a well run chlorinator thatfilters the water first for organic matter then puts a 1-2 ppm residual chlorine level in the water is not very toxic.  Cities have done this for a very longtime.

UV treatment works too, and is the route I would go.

a pH of 5.6 isn't very acidic.  Remember that pH is a log scale. This is a level typical of eastern hardwood forests.

But I would get a full water analysis done.  Here (Alberta) we can get a sample bottle at our local public health office.  The analysis is free.

Take that and find out what needs to be done.


My light wiring has 2 white wires & one black wire

Just wirenut the two white wires that were connected to the old fixture to the white wire from the new fixture

Since we have a black wire (our switched hot) coming from the switch, and its matching white (always-hot in the switch loop) nutted to two black wires in back, we know that the black wire landing on the fixture is a switched-hot, and the two white wires landing on the current fixture must then be neutrals.  So, simply nut both of the white neutrals together and to the new fixture's neutral, and you'll be good.


The lard will work fine. The laminated wood would give you  smoother sides and bottom.


Can I hang a bathroom shelf with command strips or something similar?

I would not risk hanging a glass shelf with those strips.  They are meant for hanging things directly from (like a towel, hair dryer, etc.), not a shelf that sticks out.  Instead of just pulling down on the strip, it will pull down and away, almost a guaranteed recipe for broken glass.

Unfortunately there is no way to anchor something to the wall without proper anchors.  If you are able to get the shelf anchored into a stud then the hole should not be all that large - it's the drywall anchors that tend to make larger holes.

If the wall was concrete you might be able to glue it to the wall, but this will leave a larger mess (leftover glue that someone has to scrape off) than screws in drywall.

Perhaps you could offer to repair any damage you are responsible for?  Otherwise you should get a free-standing shelving unit.


How to eliminate a small voltage in a home AC lighting circuit

The center ground is a red herring

It has nothing to do with your lighting issue.  The only other possible explanation is a combinatioj of two things: A) a seriously defective grounding electrode system/neutral-ground equipoetntial bond; and also a ground fault in some your equipment.

If your lights are screw-in or snap-in types, most likely they only have two terminals - such as the two pins on a GU connector, or the center and threads of a screw-in.  If the bulb only has 2 terminals, it cannot interact with ground. So the odd ground is not causing the lighting issue.

It's your switch

99% of the time, the LEDs that won't extinguish, that's because your switch is not a switch.  I bet incandescents work fine, or if it's a multi-lamp fixture, the problem goes away if one of the bulbs is incandescent.

The problem is that you have an "active switch" - it is a dimmer, lighted switch, motion sensor or smart switch that is a powered device and needs power to run its own stuff.  A plain switch normally doesn't have access to ground, heck, doesn't even have access to neutral, which is the proper way for a device to power itself (between hot and neutral). So when these active switches are made for retrofit, they can't power themselves conventionally because neutral may not be present in the switch box.

Even if the switch gets ground for safety, it should not interact with it electrically.

So they use a trick of incandescent bulbs.  An incandescent which is off is basically a dead short.  That changes when the bulb warms up.  ** Anyway, the trick is that the powered device leaks a tiny amount of current through the incandescent bulb - too little to light it, but enough to power the device.  Effectively the device is "in series with" the bulb.

This falls apart with CFLs and LEDs.  They have electronic switching power supplies, which Do Not Like weird mini-currents running through them, and they do unpredictable things.  Some LEDs are able to simply allow the current through, and due to their efficiency it is enough to light them.

Change that obsolete switch out to either a plain switch or a modern one made for LED.

** When you read a relay spec and it has a much lower number for "tungsten", it is referring to that "inrush current" you get from that dead-short load as the incandescent is warming up. This differs from the "ballast" or "HID" number, which refers to the very-high-voltage inductive kick you get from a tranformer based ballast when you shut off the light. Generally, that’s what you use a snubber for, across the relay contacts to discharge that kick.


Adding new joists to old deck: lumber size mismatch

First make sure that your support posts and beam(s) are in good shape.  You'll be adding a lot of weight doubling the number of joists and adding the heavier  PVC decking.

Your choices are to either allow the new joists to hang lower than the others, or if you don't like how it looks, cut a 1/4 inch off the width before they are hung.

No matter which choice you make, the joints are still hung flush on top.


Questions regarding my plan for new 50A circuit (with pictures)

Answering your questions in turn:

You will be using individual wires in the conduit here -- there's no reason here that merits wrestling a fat, annoying cable down a conduit!  All four wires, however, will get pulled through the conduit as a group -- you can suck a string (tie a plastic bag on the end) through the conduit once it's together that you can then use to pull the wires through.
You are fine on the neutral here -- a meter for 120/240V split-phase service doesn't need it.  Simply nut the line and load neutrals together with a suitable wirenut (or a mechanical screw-terminal splice connector) at this point.
Your proposed grounding scheme is also fine given your choice of conduit -- I would suggest running a bare ground wire instead of an insulated one, though, as that saves a bit of space inside the conduit.
Since you are running conduit through the studs instead of a cable, you will not need bushings of any sort to run the conduit through holes in the studs.  I suggest running the exterior conduit above the window, by the way; that way, you don't have to try to fit a conduit behind your gas meter.
You do need to secure the conduit to whatever it is sitting against at 3' intervals, yes.  Strapping to every other stud works if you are running against the siding with studs 16" O/C -- for studs 24" O/C, simply attach a conduit strap to each stud, through the siding.  If you do decide to attach the conduit to the masonry, use masonry anchors or fasteners for the conduit straps, on 3' spacings.
1" is a suitable size for the run you have planned, but PVC may not be the correct material -- you may prefer EMT instead, although you'll want to transition to LFMC for the compound bend at the garage-end of the outdoor run instead of using conduit bodies for that -- either that, or bend EMT or PVC to fit using a conduit bender.
If you're going to do the run over the top of the window, then I'd mount the meter pan so that its bottom edge lines up with the top edge of the window.  That means you can simply run the conduit out the knockout on the left side of the meter pan.


I got impatient and went to Lowe's with the fixture. The lighting guy there said the problem was the ballast (I didn't even know there was such a thing for LED) and that replacing the fixture was the right play. It cost about $13, and I reinstalled it and everything is fine now.


Scuff-sand the surface to remove gloss and create a micro-jagged surface (aka "tooth")  the new paint can engage to.

For exterior doors my first choice is a marine LPU, but unless you paint boats (know anyone?) the cost of hardener, reducer, and other kit is prohibitive.

So I recommend a quality alkyd enamel ("oil paint").  Brush it unless you are setup to spray, get throwaway bristle brushes. Enough coats so the old color doesn't punch through.

Start with a wipedown with the paint's solvent to remove dust and surface contamination.

To buy the paint, either use a Rustoleum stock color (beware, some Rustoleum is latex), or go to a Sherwin Williams industrial outlet who can custom match and give you quarts.  A more hooty-tooty brand is Fine Paints Of Europe.


Minimal temperature setting for hot water heater to prevent legionella

OSHA recommends  a water heater temperature of 140 Fahrenheit  (60 degrees Celsius)  to prevent legionella growth.
The CDC  has information that is helpful.
As a landlord you will want to prevent scalding and legal issues associated with scalding,  so  anti-scald devises would be recommended.
Doing your own research would be the proper way to educate yourself as to  guidelines and pertinent info  to address your concerns.
Also, ask your local health Dept for any public resources/info available in your area.


What could be causing my toilet to back up?

It sounds like something is in the trap of the toilet. To be positive, you can run a camera through it, or alternatively, remove the toilet and pour a large bucket (larger than a flush) of water down the exposed drain - if it drains quickly and does not backup, you know the issue is with the toilet.  If it backs up then you know the issue is with the drain (or vent possibly)

If the drain is the problem then the best bet is to have a plumber come run a camera down it to determine where the problem is (from the question you said you "cleared" it, I assume this means running an snake/auger down it)  It could be an object is stuck, or the drain could be collapsed, etc.

If it is the toilet then you need to and remove whatever is stuck in the trap. Sometimes objects like toothbrushes can get really stuck and the only option is to replace the toilet.


Can I run conduit containing 120V wires inside larger conduit for 240V wires?

I assume you are in the USA for this answer.
120 volt circuits are not considered “low voltage”. Low voltage means 60 volts (I believe) or lower. 120 volts and 240 volts are the same voltage class and it is perfectly fine to run both of them in the same conduit.
Besides, in the USA, 240 volt circuits are simply two legs of 120 volts in opposite phase. While you have 240 hot-to-hot, it’s still 120 volts hot-to-ground, just like a 120 circuit.
Edit: typo


How to clean portland cement off bricks?

There is a product called Sure Klean® that is used nowadays. I am sure there are other brands out there too. Muriatic acid used to be used, at least it was when I was a masons helper, but I think Its availability is regulated. Sure-Klean has it, just in small amounts I guess.

It needs to be diluted and protection worn, it pretty caustic stuff, so read the directions for use, and protect areas you do not want affected


Should I build risers and treads out of hard wood floor pieces

Time = Money. And assembling these in a manner that won't cause you headache later is going to take a lot of time.

To make a tread, you'll need to laminate the floorboard together somehow, otherwise they will flex under the weight. Construction adhesive would work, but wood glue might be better. And don't forget to sand or plane off the finish before you glue them together because the glue won't stick as well to the finished face.

Multiply all of this by the number of steps you have.

Another method with slightly less work is to put down regular stair treads, then put your hardwood planks over the top. You need to carefully select the correct thickness of the tread, taking in to account the thickness of your planks and the nose molding. This is similar to what is described in the article you linked to in your comment.


What "code" applies to projects that I do in my own home?

You need to contact your local building department.  In the U.S., most of the residential building regulations exist at the state level, but in many states the codes can be amended by counties and even individual towns.

The International Residential Code and its competitors are "model codes."  States often adopt model codes (with local modifications) to avoid the cost and hassle of writing their own codes from scratch, and also because it is beneficial for codes to be harmonized so that the same building materials can be used in different locations.


Half my house losing power, HVAC the key factor

If you're in the US, my guess is that you're losing one leg of your incoming power somehow.  Power comes into your home as split phase 240 volts - there are two 120V "legs" that are 180 degrees out of phase.  Typically one leg goes to each side of the breaker panel.  I bet if you trace the circuits that are down, they all go to the same half of the panel. When the air conditioning, which uses both legs, turns on, it bridges the gap and backfeeds power to the other half of your house.

Now, how you're losing a leg of your power is another question entirely.  This is likely a utility problem and you should call them ASAP. The utility will check things out and if it is on their side of things then they will fix it for free. If they determine that the problem is in your panel, they will let you know and then you need to call an electrician for a repair. This is an unsafe condition and can cause all sorts of problems, so get it checked out ASAP.


How to install 2x10 joists of slightly different sizes?

Use face mount joist hangers and set them so that the tops of the joists are all level.

You could try to return the joists and demand a batch that are the same size. Or shim them, which is less than ideal.

As stated in comments, joists can vary in size based on moisture content. Not only that, but they'll expand and contract a bit with moisture changes in the future, as well.


I painted my deck last year with Behr stain, water based, but looked like paint because I wanted color. Later I noticed that some of the boards seemed like they didn't get as much coverage. So the next day I simply added a second coat on the spots and the boards where I felt it was too thin. It still looks great over a year later and I never had to deal with any sticky spots. I would just add a second coat after it is thoroughly dried on the spots you feel need a bit more.


I want to waterproof from outside, but my neighbors live 2 ft from us, is it possible?

you should always stop leaks at the earliest opportunity. whichever way it's getting in that's where you stop it. don't worry about some old tales about keeping foundation a little moist. What do you mean by waterproofing from the outside being difficult because of 2 feet to neighbour? Are you wanting to wrap the wall from the outside? is that where the water is coming in or is it coming in under eaves or behind gutters or leaky roof...or a leaky drainpipe in the soil?
Unfortunatelly when you ask particular trades people about a difficult to locate source of moisture, they typically only say that they can do x y z...and it will cost $$$ but no guarantee it will fix the problem. sometimes it takes years to find the true source of the problem. addressing it is the straight forward part.


It is a retractable hanging rod, also called a valet rod. It should only pull out about 7 to 10" max. I have installed theses in walk in closets.


Replacing a gas boiler fan - UK gas safe regulations

You can work on the boiler if you are Gas Safe (oka Corgi) registered.
Sadly, even as a professional engineer who may well understand gasses, reactions etc much better than a registered installer, you don't qualify as a competent person...
Some registered people may be prepared to allow you to do bits and sign off on them after they have inspected - but they are about as rare as hen's teeth... (and yes my neighbour was registered and did that for me...)


How can I avoid sap seep in my woodworking projects?

Yes it's normal to hit pitch pockets in douglas fir. You can remove it by wiping it with mineral spirits but that's only going to clear the surface and more will weep out; you could be fighting it for years. Because of the pitch (among other reasons), doug fir is not the best choice for furniture. If the wood is prepped correctly by sufficient kiln drying it is fine, but sufficient is often an unknown quantity. You are better off choosing hardwoods like oak or maple ( among others).

I do not know how mineral spirits will interact with your finish. Also mineral spirits can be harsh and if you are sensitive to chemicals you can look into odorless mineral spirits which might help.