How do I drain a small retaining wall built for flowers?

It's un-mortared blocks. No particular effort beyond that should be required, unless it's lined with plastic that needs holes poked in it. Every joint between blocks is a drainage point.


brand new toilet installed by plumber won't drain

Your DIY answer is:
Call the plumber that installed it.

If that does not work, call your state licencing board, and determine who the bonding agent is for the plumber (it's a licenced plumber, right?)


Brand New French Doors Installed By Contractor.. Leaks same day. Is this normal?

I have been installing doors and windows since 1988. Ii sounds to me like you have a bad installation. It also sounds like the doors were pre-hung but standard size since the had to cut into the slab. Sliding patio doors are 79-1/2" and 81-1/2" net height standard sizes. A standard size French door is 81-3/4" net height. Normally when replacing a sliding door with French door the doors would have to be cut down so the overall unit would fit the existing opening.

Often installers will not flash above the door, just caulk. It should always be flashed above the door. If the doors are properly installed you will not see any light coming in. Another clue that the door was not sold correctly is the time it took to install it. About 4 hours would be realistic.

You have some options, but don't wait too long. Most states, I think, require a contractors bond. A complaint to your state's labor department can help you with filing a complaint against this contractor. This can tie up there contractors bond until the issue is resolved. Also it has been my experience that people who could pay with cash or check will use a credit card because if they feel the product or performance was not what they were sold a complaint to the credit card company will remove the purchase amount from the offending companies bank account and will not release it until the issue is resolved.

Hope this helps.


Buying 110V power tools for my father in law to take back to 220v Russia

This seems like a really bad idea.

First, you can't just ignore the voltage difference problem. The battery charger might have a chance of working natively or with an adapter (read its labeling) - but that's a hokey way to hook it up.  The Dremel is probably beyond the ability of cheap Chinese power adapters, not least because it's a motor and I seriously doubt that overpriced $23 thing with 50 cents of electronics inside it actually does VFD.

It's generally a fool's errand to try to convert tools from one voltage/frequency to another.  If you want that, then get Euro or UK tools that are 230V/50 Hz.

Further, there's the matter of plugs.  USA stuff will not plug into Russian outlets, nor should it.  Russia uses the Europlug (ungrounded) or Schuko (grounded).  This is the same as almost all of mainland Europe.  So order your father-in-law European appliances if you must.

Lastly, tools are personal. You select the tool you like, and then you adapt to it and love it.  It's a thing you've got to do.

Parents don't just use stuff you give them because you gave them. You know perfectly well this is the best you can hope for.  90% of the time it goes on the shelf or in the trash. Given that you'll be giving tools of incompatible voltage, and incompatible plugs, this is 100% guaranteed in this case.   If you want to do a gesture like this, either recognize it for the foolhardy, empty gesture it is and hope your FiL will feel the love... or get serious and obtain Euro appliances.  Or better yet, sort out the barriers to giving a gift card at your FIL's favorite tool shop.


How do I repair a curtain rod anchor that was ripped out of the wall?

There's several ways to fix this, depending on a few things.

The best thing to do is avoid drywall anchors, and screw directly into a stud. If there's one close enough that it looks okay, you should do that. You'll have to patch up these holes, which may be a bit of a pain to do with the textured walls, but it's doable.

The next best option is probably to use a toggle bolt anchor. These are bolts that expand when you put them in the wall:

This site has some good info on them, including a sizing chart:

Toggle Size  Drill Bit Needed

1/8" toggle   3/8" drill
3/16" toggle  1/2" drill
1/4" toggle   5/8" drill
5/16" toggle  7/8" drill
3/8" toggle   7/8 drill
1/2" toggle   1 1/4" drill

This option has the advantage that you can probably use the existing holes (just use a large enough toggle bolt), and bolts are reasonably strong so hopefully this won't happen again.

It's hard to tell from the picture, but if the curtain hardware doesn't totally cover the holes you'll need to do some cosmetic work. Keep in mind though that if you patch these holes with compound, they still won't be as strong as regular drywall, so you won't be able to put the same size anchor back in and expect it to hold.


Standard measures for buildings in the US?

Ceiling height: 8 feet (nominal; 92-5/8" stud length plus 4-1/2" of plates), 9 and 10 feet less common (108" and 120" studs); vaulted ceiling peaks as room size and slope dictate

Wall thickness: interior, 3-1/2" (nominal 2x4) plus half-inch drywall on both sides; exterior, 5-1/2" (nominal 2x6) plus half-inch drywall inside, half inch sheathing outside, and an exterior finish. Thicker walls uncommon with high-efficiency designs

Doors: 28" and 30" for interior (nominal interior jamb width), 36" for handicap-accessible homes, 32" and 36" for exterior (42" uncommon)

Windows: No standard. Common heights are on the half-foot between 3 and 7 feet, but most manufacturers will offer sizes at 2 inch increments. Common widths from 18 inches to 12 feet.


How should I install a plywood subfloor that will be covered by granite tiles?

Would like to put in a suggestion for either Schluter Ditra or Laticrete Strata-mat.

As uncoupling membranes, they effectively stiffen floors by unitizing the tile layer. For stone installation, Schluter recommends double layer of underlayment.  The second layer should be offset from the first layer, not following seams.  The second layer should only be attached to the first, not through to the framing.   The total thickness only has to be 3/4, but can be thicker as necessary for level matching.  The first layer should be at right angle to the joists, along the the long direction of the ply.

Ditra stone tile install

Ditra plywood install

excerpted from Ditra installation handbook


It is normal for the suction line /vapor line ( going to the outside compressor) to have condensation. The amount depends on humidity and the characteristics of your unit. If you get frost on it , have someone check it out.


What is the best way to remove rubble (from a demolition) from dirt and grass?

For what you ask, my go to tool is the garden rake. It will dethatch the lawn while you are at it. so it will take the occasional cleaning to keep it effective. Get a good one, the weight of the broken pieces add up fast and a weak rake will break on you.


Maybe you could splice in some sort of 45 degree sanitary tee at that curve right above the fan?  That way, when the ice falls down the pipe, it gets caught. Maybe also some kind of filter there to restrict airflow but allow water to melt out on warm days.


Is it possible to have a room protected from outside GSM microwave radiation?

All you need is a Faraday cage, with the proper size holes.

The Global System for Mobile communication (GSM) operates at 2100, 1900, 1800, 900, 850, or less commonly 450 or 400MHz.

The diameter of the openings in a Faraday cage, should be 1/10th the wavelength of the wave you want to block.

Wavelength (λ) is equal to the speed of travel, divided by the frequency of the wave.

Electromagnetic radiation travels at the speed of light (c).

So the formula would be.

Diameter mesh size (mm) = (c / f) * 10,000

So to block a 2100MHz GSM signal, you'll need a Faraday cage with ~1/2" (12.7 mm) diameter openings.

D = (299,792,458 m/s / 2100 MHz ) * 10,000
D = 14.2758313333 mm

As you've mentioned, you'll have to integrate the mesh into the windows and doors of the room.

This colander worn as a hat, should effectively block GSM signals from melting your brain.


Can new grout be layered on top of old grout?

Yes new grout can be installed on old grout.  Make sure the old grout is thoroughly cleaned and then wet before installation.  I do this all the time.   There is absolutely no need to start over and given the quality of the install you have had so far I would say that starting over might introduce more issues.

On the pan you can expect a slight slope towards the drain but the pan should be flat to the foot.  Depending on what kind of pan he used your issues could be very severe or 1-2 hours of tile work.


Can I wire an extension into a Party line phone?

From the 1940's till today Telcos went through 4 standardised system across the world.I am sure there were many other standards in various places... which makes things even more complicated.

DACS2 is the most recent standard that allow for multi call, caller ID and Digital data on a single pair of wire. They are usually terminated with filters at your socket.

DACS1 is what allot of people that were born in the 1980 will remember. FAX machines and 33.6 / 56k modems. There was no caller id support and having two calls on one line needed a separate pair.

1+1 WB900 about 1970-1980 is what I think you might have. It allows for simultaneous calls for two parties per pair but each party is terminated with a special filter. An easy way to identify this standard is by trying to find out if there is a battery at the master socket.

The best way to try and find out what you are working with it measuring 3 basic voltages on the line. on-hook, off-hook and ring. You need to be careful not to short the wires and do not touch them bare handed. You can never be careful enough with electricity. These voltages will help you determine if you can plug in a DECT phone or if you need to try and find some kind of other phone on ebay or something.

LTE coverage in your area is a perfect opportunity to use the up to 300mbit/s and install a voip gateway like the linksys SPA2102 or PAP2T models. You will then get a modern day DACS/DACS2 complaint signal and you can use as many DECT phones as you like. You can also redirect your landline number to a VoiP gateway or if you are in the USA Google offer some interesting things with Voice.(which is VoiP). Benefit of VoiP is that you can even have your Cell Phone (or cell phones) ring, while your home number rings and have an online mailbox that you can access from any device.

If in doubt just contact the Telco company and ask them about installing a separate phone. They might just do it or let you know how to do it - Or say. No its not possible because the system is antique and we cant get the phones any more.


What size expansion gap should I leave between my wall a hardwood floating floor?

Your vapor barrier needs to extend beyond the edges of the floor to prevent moisture from getting to the floor.  Install in accordance to manufacturer's recommendations.

The expansion gap needed also depends on the manufacturer's recommendations - different materials expand at different degrees.  The point of the gap is to give it room so it doesn't end up buckling.  If you can't find a solid recommendation then use 1/2" for the maximum protection - and if the trim you install doesn't cover the gap, use quarter round.


How critical is it to use the correct wire colors within the same electrical outlet?

The answer to your question is "quite critical":  Grounds must be green, yellow/green or bare.  Neutrals must be white or gray.  All others are hot.

Binding stranded wire to a screw terminal is tricky. Not impossible but tricky.  I like to "super-twist it" by gripping  the wire in a hole intended to shear off bolts, which keeps it circular.  You have to have just the right touch to clamp the wire enough to hold it without shearing it.

Because of the difficulty for a novice to attach stranded wire to a screw terminal, I would advise either going to the shop and getting some solid #12 wire, or, you can use round crimp terminals for the ground screw on the junction box (not on a receptacle).

If you have wire whose insulation is not green or yellow-green, there are two ways to mark it as a ground.

Strip all the insulation off. Optional: wrap it with green tape, which will solve the birdcaging issue if the supertwist doesn't.
Don't strip the insulation off and totally obscure it with green tape. However this violates Code.


How do I install a manufactured stone surround on a zero clearance fireplace?

If you need to overlap, the cement board could do it in a more continuous manner, making it easier to thinset the stone.

Usually its either/or with lath vs cement board.  Are you going to use both?

Properly secured board (8in OC) is sufficient for manufactured stone for a veneer and using thinset.  Thicker stone using a mortar might want the lath support.


That will work.
It actually does not matter "which of 3,4 connects to L1, L2" nor "which of 1,2 connects to T1, T2", but conventionally you would like to keep the same color on the same side.
i.e. L1 -> 3 and L2 -> 4 works no worse nor better than what you had - in 240V single phase the lines are interchangeable.
It's also polite to put red or black tape or paint on the white wires, but normally considered "obvious" in this application.


Can I replace a 3A plug on a light fixture (that comes with 3A cable) with a 5A plug?

From the mention of 3A and 5A plugs, I'm guessing that you're in the UK (or a country that uses the same style plugs).

The only difference between a 3A and a 5A plug is the fuse, and the fuses in a UK plug are interchangeable, so to convert the 5A plug to a 3A plug, just remove the old 5A fuse and install a new 3A fuse.

Your fixture doesn't have an earth lead, meaning that it's double insulated.  Connect the two wires on your light fixture to the terminals marked 2 and 4 in this diagram:

(Image courtesy of the Wikipedia article on UK plugs)


Is this wall load bearing? Blueprints and photos attached

Disclaimer: I'm not a structural engineer, nor should you believe the word of a internet stranger. Contact a local structural engineer to take a look so you don't bring the house down.

A few details point to the wall visible in the photo being load bearing:

There is a beam in the open bit next to the wall. This implies something is worth supporting up there.
The sloped ceiling implies the roof is right above it. Roofs need supporting.
The blueprints mention a column in the corner instead of just letting them butt into each other. This is only needed when that column is supporting a load.
Finally the blueprints have that wall shaded like they have the outer walls while the other inner walls are blank. Outer walls are nearly always load bearing, while inner walls rarely are.

The walls around the closet are unlikely to be load bearing.


Can I relocate my electric water heater under a basement window?

Is relocating the water heater under a window a problem?

Not unless you need to get to that window for some reason such as egress as previously mentioned.

  Would the pipes be more susceptible to freezing near the glass of the window?

Yes. Since glass has a much lower insulative rating than just about anything else.

  Would I need to make sure I had heat from the furnace warming that utility/storage area?

How often is the water flowing in those pipes? In a full basement the temperature shouldn't drop much below 50°F in the dead of winter since most of the basement is below ground. However pipes close to outside walls (or windows) risk freezing in winter. Their risk of freezing goes up, as the amount and frequency of water flow goes down.

So, if you want to locate the water heater under that window and you don't need to use the window, make sure you block off and insulate the window, and insulate the pipes (especially the cold). If you heat the space that will preclude the insulation but may cost you more in the long run. Ultimately, doing both would ensure sleeping comfortable on cold nights without worrying about frozen broken pipes.

Good luck and Happy Turkey Day!


Is it necessary to discharge the capacitors on an AC condensor?

Most of the motors associated with fans and such, utilize an induced magnetic field, and don't have a permanent magnet. So as the capacitor releases its charge (quickly), a magnetic field would be induced in the motor and cause the motor to turn maybe once or twice, and that should spend most, if not all, of the the stored charge. So the capacitor will release the charge to turn the motor... or more technically, the motor will draw the stored current out of the capacitor (quickly).

With respect to the kind of motor that is turning, for most any AC fan motor, it is highly doubtful that a dynamo-style (using a permanent magnet) motor is being used (except on wind mills). I mention this because the efficiency of the discharging effect could be different compared with a dynamo-style motor... but I also think it should be kind of the same (roughly). The difference being that inertia of the spinning dynamo, will continue to generate electricity, until it nearly stops- at which point it would draw the stored current from the capacitor.

But something else to be aware of is that, typically, large capacitors do not perfectly insulate or isolate or hold charges... they naturally discharge within themselves after a while. Furthermore, large capacitors usually have a bleeder resistor attached to the capacitors terminals. Discharging through motors and other electrical items where a circuit exists is (probably) the primary way, though.


how to replace grommets(snaps) on a coat

Probably not a home improvement but I have repaired several snap covers on my BBQ with a kit like this very easy to use only 10$ or so. You will have spares for around the house.


Yes, this rod is correct, only it is NOT "additional", it is required since this feeder runs to a detached structure.

Also, as mentioned, many/most inspectors will as if the ground rod meet the 25 ohm requirement. If it does not then a second rod is required and the 25 ohm rule is no longer in place.

Also, and this is a biggie, that SOOW cord is absolutely NOT code legal in this case. Rubber cord CANNOT be used for permanent wiring. You need to use either individual THHN/THWN conductors if the conduit is complete from panel to panel, or you can use UF cable as long as the size cable you get can legally fit in the conduit.
Individual conductors in conduit could be #8cu, but due to the distance and the small cost difference I'd go with #6, actually #6 for the hots, #8 for the neutral, and #10 for the ground.
Uf cable would need to be 6/3.

I would seriously consider making this right and getting the whole job inspected.


How can I air-condition a garage without modifying it?

Unless you can insulate, it will cost a ton of money.  I get that it's a rental, but maybe the landlord won't mind if you insulate the garage.  Having done that, get one of these AC units that only require you to make a 6" hole through the wall:

Talk to your landlord, they may not mind these slight mods, especially if you pay for the insulation.

However, if you really can't modify anything, another option is to build a smaller insulated shack in the garage, and AC that.  Or, build a temporary wall to isolate part of the garage as an insulated and AC'ed space.


How much movement is normal after mounting a TV on partition wall?

You don't say what size or gauge the studs are, but regardless, any reasonable stud is more than adequate for the weights involved. I'm not fully clear on what your connections really are, but in general they sound adequate. Are you sure the bulge occurred during the installation and wasn't always there? Drywall walls are rarely perfectly flat when checked with a straight edge. If the bulge were caused by the installation, it is probably the screws pulling the adjacent stud out of plumb due to some misalignment with the other studs and/or the mounted devices.

Metal studs are rather elastic, it doesn't take much side load for them to deflect a few mm. Despite my uncertainty of what you actually did, I'm fairly sure you have no structural issues and do not need to worry about anything failing.


How do I properly size the ground wire for a subpanel?

YES you can use #4 Al as your ground.  Your 1AWG Al is good for a 100 AMP feeder (actually 110).  From NEC 250.122 this requires an #8 CU or #6 Al ground wire as a minimum (or 6CU and 4 Al if you are really running a 110Amp Feeder).
As a reminder, your feeder will be 4 wires, the two hots and the neutral will be #1AL (unless you've de-rated the neutral to 70% or from specific load balancing calculations if that is allowed in your area).

NEC 250.122 table:


bi folding pantry door to frosted single door?

I replaced several bi-fold doors with pre-hung and for all but one I removed the drywall down to the rough 2x4 framing. For one thing this allowed standard doors to fit.

For one narrow closet of odd size I got a custom pre-hung door and did not remove drywall. I didn't remove the drywall because the interior dry wall face extended all the way out the outside. There must be a name for this kind of closet.


Can I replace a single light switch with a 3-way switch that can individually control 2 lights in a fixture?

Your Plan

Your analysis about two wires makes an assumption that is forbidden in residential electrical work. One of the wires in a standard fixture is the neutral whose state cannot change. It must always be connected to the other neutrals in the system, connected to the main electrical panel and ultimately to ground. If 1 reresents connected, the white wire is always in the 1 state.

The black, or hot wire can be connected or not. Similarly, in a three wire system, the red wire, as well as the balck, can also be used as a hot wire and can be connected or not, depending on the state of switches. In a three wire system, the white still stays connected all the time.

How to do it

If you want separate controls, you need a separate wire to power (carry the hot current) to each bulb. A single neutral (white) can be used.

Hot wire originating at switch

If the power is presently comming into the switch box from the electrical panel, and then being routed to the fixture, the standard way to wire this would be to run a three wire cable (white/black/red) from the switch to the fixture and to use a double switch, such as this type.

The white wire coming from the panel is connected to the white wire going to the fixture.  The black wire coming from the panel is connected to the incomming sides of both sections of the switch.  The black wire to the fixture is connected to one of the outgoing terminals and the red wire from the fixture is connected to the other outgoing terminal (outgoing because the power is coming through the switch and going out to the fixture).

Hot wire originating at fixture

If the power comes directly to the fixture, and there is just a two wire cable going to the switch, you need to run a three wire cable to the switch.  The white wire will actually be used as a black/hot wire to carry power to the switch. It needs to be marked with black tape a both ends to show this. At the fixture this pseudo black wire is connected to the black hot from the main panel. The real black is connected to one bulb and the red to another bulb.

At the switch, the white (now marked black) is the incoming line to both switches and the red and black are attached separately to the outgoing terminal on each switch.

In either setup, the switches are independent. You can turn on either, both or neither.

There are double throw switches that would allow you to have one or the other or neither, but not both.  You still need the three wire cable at the switch site.


Electrically, there is no problem with it as long as you are using simple thermostats.  Smart 'stats like the Nest might have a problem with it.

Operationally, a building that is so sensitive to pipe freeze is a nightmare.  Less because of the inevitable tenant squabble (but that too), and more because that also means your house will not last long after a power failure.  You should be able to lose power for a day+ before pipe freeze becomes an issue.

Legally you are able to oblige your tenant to heat enough to prevent pipe freeze, but 65 is a pretty high bar.  I would not want to try to explain to a judge why my house couldn't handle 50.  The way that would end up playing in court is looking like you're just wasting energy because somebody else is paying for it.  I think the judge would say that's as wrong as when a tenant does it.  The tricky mechanical enforcement would only antagonize and get a harsher judgment. Wouldn't want to be defending that.


Insulation in the basement underneath of my fireplace

These areas have always been notorious for being under insulated.  Filling the areas with fiberglass should be fine.  We spray foam the entire area under fireplace bump outs.  This keeps the drafts and cold weather out.


How can I safely connect a 240v shallow well pump to a switch?

I'd like to use a common double-pole switch (four-way)

Those are completely different things.  You just said "Toyota Prius pickup truck".
A common 4-way switch is a "reversing switch", it does not disconnect anything at all.  It won't disconnect the motor; it won't even reverse a 1-phase motor, just cause a huge voltage spike if you tried lol.
A double-pole switch is exceedingly uncommon and I wouldn't expect a home store to stock one.
Regardless, you don't need a double-pole switch, a single-pole will suffice if it's rated for 240V. So you'll be up in the $10 "heavy duty" kinds.

to allow us to disable the pump when we're not on the property

I quite agree with Jeff, however. If your goal is an occasional disconnect, just flip the breaker off.  I do that all the time with fridges and water heaters. Technically you should use a breaker rated "SWD" or "Switching Duty", but any new breaker should be (am I right ThreePhaseEel, does that apply to 2-pole breakers?)

Should I hard-wire the pump's cord into the switch in a junction box, or should I install an aftermarket 240v plug? If the latter, what plug type is appropriate?

GOOD question, many would misuse a 120V NEMA 5-15. Heck the entire nation of the Philippines does exactly that lol.
The correct plug-socket for a 240V-ground-not-neutral connection is the NEMA 6 family.
Doubling voltage  halves current, so the correct plug is a NEMA 6-15.   For sockets:

A 15A breaker requires 15A sockets (NEMA 6-15).

If the breaker is 20A, and there is only 1 socket (simplex), it must be NEMA 6-20.

If 20A and 2+ sockets, you can have any mix of 6-15 and 6-20 sockets.

Note how the 6-20 socket is keyed to accept a 6-15 plug.  All these here are double (duplex) sockets, so one duplex 6-15 will work with both breaker sizes.


How is pre-wiring done for motion sensors / alarm system in new construction?

When we do drywall, if there's a loose wire (e.g. electrical line for a hard-wired dishwasher), we cut a small hole and pull it through during installation. Pretty easy to do while everything is open and you can see both sides of the drywall. Leave plenty of slack so it can be fished through the drywall before it's been attached to the wall, and the hole can be made even smaller.

The other option is installing a J-box like you would for phone or cable wires, and leave an opening in the drywall like you would for any other J-box.

For other considerations, I'm a huge fan of conduit. No need to go to every door/window, but it wouldn't hurt to run some to where you want the main key pad, to the attic, and to your telecomm connections.


Those switches can't be used because they're dreck

You can't use these in US mains wiring because they are unlisted dreck from China.  They lie about being UL Listed, and they pay people to write them positive reviews.

If it had a UL listing, it could be sold in retail stores, but it can't get one because it is inherently unsafe.  Looks very pretty - they're good at that - and will burn your house down.

This happened to you because you bought this off the Amazon Marketplace flea market.  Note how the seller is not Amazon.

This stuff is basically eBay, and it all comes from China, and they use the Amazon warehouse system to dodge the import laws.

All these circuits are old style pre-2011 switch loops

Which have been outlawed since NEC 2011 landed.  I don't know what this electrician was thinking (are you in a FEMA built trailer? Those are at NEC 2005) but yeah, these are no-go.  The electrician needs to bring neutral down from the light, using what will certainly have to be smurf tube to bring down the 6 wires required.  (hot, neutral, plus four switched-hots for the various things).

Smart switches are the entire point of the NEC 2011 code change.

What's more, the "electrician" brought down the 5 wires in 2 separate cables.  This is not allowed for a bunch of technical reasons relating to EMF, vibration and eddy current heating.

  This is out of my wheelhouse and he is no longer responding to my requests.

Because it seems to be also out of your "electrician's" wheelhouse.  Your demands just exceeded the person's abilities... and that person wants to get paying work from other customers not learn a bunch of stuff and fix your work for free.  If you paid the person through one of those gig sites like TaskRabbit, exercise your right to refund etc.

You will be able to wire switches to the left cable only, but you will need the "No Neutral Required" variety.

The right cable is unusable. What was the person thinking?

I thought these were 3 switch loops. They're not.

Your handyman (I'm sorry, I cannot keep calling this person an electrician) wanted to drive 4 lights, which using old-style switch loops (outlawed in 2011), required 5 conductors.  "You should have asked for neutral for smart switches" -> no, NEC 2011 already says that is required. The handyman was of the notion that the 2011 rule doesn't need to be followed if it's hard. Which isn't true at all!

However the bigger problem is the use of 2 separate cables to make up the 5 conductors.  You just can't do that.

I don't know, shrug, maybe your local inspector has decided the laws of physics do not apply in this jurisdiction, and allows it, in which case it could be fixed by replacing the right-side /2 cable with a /3 cable.  But this does not excuse failing to actually do that.

Regardless, it's work for somebody.


Can I reuse the garage door rail when replacing the garage door opener?

Generally no, you cannot reuse the rail, they are not all exactly the same dimensions. There is no one standard size of profile, even within the same manufacturer, they change over the years.

The holes for the attach points may change also, this could be solved by drilling more holes, but this would defeat the purpose of saving time.

If you bought a new opener within a few years of buying the old one, then maybe. But, they normally last 10 years or so.

Edit: just to be clear, this is the rail on a typical opener.

For most designs, a shuttle rides on the rail.

Not all rails have the same cross-section (profile). There are at least two types, T and Box. And each of these are not standardized.

You could possibly re-use the shuttle and possibly the chain. But, these are high wear items, not recommended. Not all use chains anyway, there are belt drives also.


How can one tell which ceiling fans are reliable?

For the wobble, for various reasons almost all fans will "wobble" with time.  As with anything that spins they need to be balanced.  Fans require maintenance, and the manual should tell you when and how to do this maintenance.  This involves making sure all screws/bolts are tight, and in the case of wobble it will tell you how to balance the fan.  Fans come with shims and instructions on how to balance the blades.


Should I install a second septic tank or add a long run for an outbuilding?

So much of this depends upon local regulations and soil conditions on your site.
If you decided to do a separate septic tank, you'd also need another drain field (in some parts of the country called a leach field). Seems like a lot of expense for a single toilet.
Next:  Your existing septic system might not be regulated (licensed) for an additional device. In my neck of the woods, septic systems are sized and permitted by the number of bedrooms in the house. I DK how a toilet in a barn would count.
There is also the possibility of a hybrid system, where you install septic tanks near the barn and pump it to the drainfield.
But and as MUCH AS I HATE TO SAY IT on a DIY site, septic design and maintenance is coming under increasing scrutiny everywhere. You could probably do this off the record, and not permitted, but it will catch up to you eventually. Better to do it right the first time.   You'll probably need to call a pro. Sorry!!!!!


How to install a chandelier onto a pancake box?

My suggestion is to find a different fan rated pancake that does not have the mounting holes directly inline with the beam. Alternatively, go buy a new pancake and drill holes to mount it where the holes aren't inline with the beam.

Either suggestion shouldn't cost you much.


How is this light switch wired? Where is the ground?

I see two ground screws on the metal junction box, and grond wires being affixed to both of them.  Since there are three MC cables entering the box, either those screws support 2 ground wires per screw, or there is an invisible wire nut.


I'm not sure how you're going to be able to do that with this hinge. There are a few tactical issues. First, the hinge requires a mortise which would typically be on the inside of the door. So now you'll have to figure out how to cut the mortise on the inside of the cabinet frame. Second, The hinge is a 110 degree hinge but it's meant to swing in the opposite direction so it will want to swing in instead of out.
I won't get into the fulcrum point of the hinge which will be a non-issue since I don't think the hinge will functionally do what you want it to do.
Buy new hinges!


How to efficiently clean bathroom's toilet and tiles, so the dirt/urine from one area doesn't soil the other?

If your a bit OCD I almost hate to post any thing but it never hurts to do a good cleaning and a good occasional disinfecting of the bathroom.  As long as it does not get over done as the items used to clean and disinfect  can be harmful in there own right if exposed beyond need.  disinfecting
The markets are full of many good working bathroom spray on cleaners and disinfectants, a lite spray and then a damp wipe should be good for daily use.


What are we doing wrong? Just trying to hang a picture ☹

The Toggler SnapScru product you used is decent, with two cautions: 1, you need to maintain solid pressure while driving it in. Doing this with a screwdriver is somewhere between tough and really hard -- you want to use a drill or an impact. 2. If you hit something solid, you'll just chew up the drywall.

If you did hit something solid, (and you know it's not electrical cable or plumbing), just use a regular screw. Probe with more than a finish nail to be sure that you aren't just getting minor pushback from insulation.

If you have air behind your existing hole, go back to your favorite big box store and get the "Toggler Snaptoggle". It goes into a 1/2" hole and you pull it back on itself for a solid mount. (As solid as drywall, that is. Don't do chinups off this.)


No voltage from breaker even though breaker is good

Sorry for the slow response, but when in the process of taking out the breakers to investigate the bus bar I figured out what was going on and it took me a few days to confirm it. The two bad breakers were in the same row of my sub panel, and it dawned on me that if one the lines from the main panel that feeds sub panel was bad, that could be causing my problem. So I tested the two breakers (tandem) in the main panel that were feeding my sub and sure enough one of them was putting out 25V. So I replaced the tandem breaker in the main panel and now everything is working agin.

Thank for your suggestion about the breakers being in the same row, which got me thinking about the problem in a different way.


How do you fireblock a huge cavity in the middle of a house?

I was surprised that any fire blocking is required in single family residences. I had to look it up.
Section R602.8 requires it for “all concealed draft openings (both vertically and horizontally), to form effective barrier between stories, and between top story and roof space.” Also required at “openings around vents, pipes, and ducts at ceiling and floor level.
Approved materials are in Section 602.8.1 and includes: 1) 2” nominal lumber, 2) 2 layers of 1” nominal lumber with lap joints staggered, 3) 23/32” structural panels (plywood), 4) or 3/4” particle board, 5) 1/2” gypsum board, 6) 1/4” cement board, 7) batts or blankets of mineral or fiberglass is approved for compliance with the 10’ horizontal fire-blocking in walls constructed using rows of studs, but must be held in place. “
Also, Section R602.8.1.1 says “unfaced fiberglass batt insulation shall fill the entire cross section of the wall cavity to a minimum height of 16” measured vertically. When piping is encountered the insulation shall be tightly packed around the obstruction.”


I would cap off one side of the TEE fitting at the well pump and extend a parallel line from the well location back to the outflow side of the tank. This would be better overall as the water in the tank would get circulated and and the water supply destination would be somewhat more isolated from the pump depending on the exact design of the tank system.


Should I install my split AC outdoor unit further away so it's in the shade?

Most of the splits I have installed are pre charged for approx 15’ of line set. I looked on line and did not see much in the way of assistance.
 1kg is a small charge  I would be expecting closer to 2 kg based on the systems I have installed. I usually suggest the easiest location for maintenance is there already a receptacle mounted in either location this could save some $ as a receptacle is required by the national electric code. If you plan on issuing your system for heat in the winter the location really will not matter a large amount because any location effect gained in summer may be lost in winter.


How do I tighten a PVC fitting in a narrow space behind a sink?

You want a basin wrench. It cams sort of like a pipe wrench, so it should be able to grip almost anything. Insert the handle from the other side to cam the other direction.


Puzzling electrical problem with 9 wires in junction box

Assuming that box is wired correctly and to code, it looks like this would be true:

The lower right is the cable from the service (always energized).  Its black is always-hot and its white is always-neutral.  (all the neutrals are always-neutral; this setup properly switches the hot.)

The upper cable is the switch loop.  The black wire is always-hot.  Switched-hot comes back on the white wire, and that wire should be wrapped with some electrical tape to designate it as a hot.   Historically that marking wasn't mandatory if the application was obvious; do you think it is obvious?

The black wire to the light fixture is switched-hot.   The white wire to the lamp is neutral.

The lower left is the cable to the other light fixture. It is the same: black is switched-hot, white is neutral.

Equipment safety ground is all tied together, of course.


Potterton EP3000 -> Horstmann C27 boiler programmer wiring

From the Horstmann HEATING PROGRAMMER REPLACEMENT AND WIRING GUIDE.

EDIT
I think the diagram you have, is showing the internal view of the programmer (simplified of course).  In this image the blue rectangle represents the internals of the programmer, and the red lines represent the lines going to the boiler and power.

The lines with arrows are probably switches.

And if both HW and CH were on, it would look like this.

Because of this, 5 has to be linked to L to supply power to CH, like so.

But I'm guessing the new programmer supplies power to CH internally, so with the new programmer it should look like this.

Again, I could be wrong here as I've never worked on a system exactly like yours.  After looking at the wiring diagram the arrows are either switches, or diodes.  Though, diodes would look more like this ->|- .
Hope this helps.


Should we be rewiring or pigtailing the aluminum wiring in our condo?

Aluminum wiring is not the fire hazard people would have you think it is.  In fact it is perfectly safe and there has been studies showing that the only increased chance of fire is produced with an improper installation.  This usually means that contractors using outlets or devices that are not rated for aluminum.  This does cause the wire to eventually overheat at contact and expand/contract so many times that it becomes brittle and can short.

Pigtailing aluminum is perfectly acceptable.  Your electrician would just go to every outlet and pigtail the aluminum with a short copper strand using a Al/Cu Wire Connector (these are usually purple for identification).  This is probably the best solution for lights and other "non" outlets.  For outlets you can pigtail or just connect an Al/Cu rated outlet.

However your local building code may have stipulations - mine is fine with correctly rated outlets.  I have read in other places that they require pigtails and I have read in other places (an electrician driven county) that they require a rewire.


This sounds like you have a power outlet on the lighting circuit - I will only suggest that you remove the power outlet from that supply and connect it to a power circuit which should be correctly fused.


Why does my home's power fade and surge when I plug things in?

Call your UTILITY now on their EMERGENCY NUMBER

Your service neutral is going bad.  This is a power outage even though it doesn't appear so -- the fluctuations in light and heat you see are because the 0V reference mark for all your 120V outlets is no longer acting as such, resulting in outlets getting higher and lower voltages depending on what else is plugged in.  There's a good chance some things will eventually catch on fire if you keep this up

And please put properly rated breakers back in, so you aren't playing with fire for any longer than you already have been!  Whoever told you to do what you did with your breakers knows nothing about electricity, and should not be treated as a reliable source of electrical advice ever again!


Disconnected duct-work, a closed shut-off louver (somewhere in the duct-work, not at the register), or it's the longest and hardest-to-run stretch, therefore possibly undersized to fit in the space or a poor job done connecting it, are all likely culprits. Contract someone who has troubleshooting experience and an inspection camera. Standard duct cleaning service companies aren't likely to have either. Re-balancing the system will not solve the problem as you have tried that already (unless it is a hidden closed louver).

If I had to guess (if it's not just broken duct-work), it's the longest, hardest-to, smallest diameter run in the house, running in horribly mangled (kinked) 6" flexible. Solution, replace with ridged.


Is a 60 amp breaker adequate for a 240v sub-panel to my garage?

You mention two different things:

A specific appliance - 10,000 W electric heater
A subpanel

Do you actually want/need a subpanel?

If you only need to connect the heater (i.e., you have plenty of power already available in the garage for lights, receptacles, etc.), just run a circuit (wire & breaker in main panel sized appropriately) and you're done. For a 240V heater, that would likely be just two hots + ground.

If you actually want to connect a subpanel, then:

The wire & breaker in the main panel need to match - breaker protects wire, but should be sized for a larger load so that you can put other stuff in the subpanel
The subpanel should (code experts can speak up as to whether this is "should" or "must" - I'm not sure) have a disconnect mechanism, which can be a main breaker ("main" of that panel, but in the subpanel, not the 150 main panel) any size equal to or larger than the breaker in the main panel that feeds the subpanel. So you might get a panel that includes a 125A main breaker and use that even though the feed might be 100A.
To connect a subpanel you should use hot/hot/neutral/ground so that you can have 120V loads as well as 240V loads in the subpanel.
The total of all the breakers in the subpanel can be more than the feed - e.g., you could have 60A 240V for the heater and 6 x 20A 120V for lights, receptacles, power tools, etc. for a total of 120A @ 240V but as long as you do not have everything running at full load all the time.


Does my three season porch ceiling outlet require a GFCI?

It sounds like you described a damp area, like a bathroom.  Bathroom lighting does not require GFCI. But...

First, you are never required to use a GFCI receptacle. You can use a plain receptacle, and if GFCI protection is even required, that can be provided from another GFCI device upstream. Also, having a GFCI device past a light switch is a bad idea, so if this is sourced from a wall switch, no GFCI here.  That's a hardware limitation, not Code.

You also can't put a GFCI where shorter members of your family need a ladder to reset it.  How will they see to work?

Also practical,  you don't want to put any GFCI device where it'l be exposed to rain, spray or condensate, so an upstream/more indoor location is more appropriate.   You wouldn't charge your iPhone out here!

The next question to ponder is whether you'll be touching or contacting this light. Bathroom lights are generally grounded and garage or hi-bay lighting is usually unreachable.  If frequent contact or no ground, there’s a practical argument to be made toward GFCI protection, just because it "takes off the table" any risk of electrocution.

Now ceiling receptacles are perfectly normal for lighting.  Wiring luminaires via cord and plug connection is perfectly allowed due to NEC 400.6.


Penetrating exterior wall to bring in a continuous MC cable to the garage

Don’t cut the cladding.
Cut an elongated hole long enough to enter and continue on the other side of the wall. Start your cut right after a stud punch the inside hole so the cable will make a lazy Z. Pull the cable through the 2 holes and seal the outside one with a paintable silicone calking.
If you want a 90 yes cut the cladding but the problem then is having enough space to splice the #2 wire this will probably take a box and fittings, this can get expensive box on the outside, nipple box inside, or a large box through the wall.
I have done both and any time I can eliminate a splice I will opt for that especially on high amperage feeders.
The sealing is not that difficult  and whatever method is used will require some sealing.
I would use a 1–1/8 or 1-1/4” hole saw drill the first hole then as close as (overlapping about 1/2) possible drill the second hole so the length is about ~2” the same thing inside at the other side of the stud bay works best (less possibility of breaking Sheetrock
A clamp can be put on each side just prior to entering the wall. No extra connectors, boxes or wire nuts needed.
14” is plenty of space to make the lazy Z from one side to the other.


Why is the neutral conductor sometimes undersized in AC applications?

Why are electricians allowed to sometimes lower the size of the grounded (neutral) conductor?

As DrMoishe points out some pieces of equipment use mostly 240 volts and very little 120 volt power. It is the 120 volt power that uses the neutral. Therefore the National Electrical Code allows the downsizing of the neutral in limited application. This is NOT blanket permission to downsize all neutrals. It is only applicable in a few instances.
It is possible to downsize a feeder or service neutral according to the calculations in the National Electrical Code here:

220.61 Feeder or Service Neutral Load.
(A) Basic Calculation.  The feeder or service neutral load shall be the maximum unbalance of the load determined by this article. The maximum unbalanced load shall be the maximum net calculated load between the neutral conductor and any one ungrounded conductor.
Exception: For 3-wire, 2-phase or 5-wire, 2-phase systems, the maximum unbalanced load shall be the maximum net calculated load between the neutral conductor and any one ungrounded conductor multiplied by 140 percent.
(B) Permitted Reductions.  A service or feeder supplying the following loads shall be permitted to have an additional demand factor of 70 percent applied to the amount in 220.61(B)(1) or portion of the amount in 220.61(B)(2) deter‐ mined by the following basic calculations:
(1) A feeder or service supplying household electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and electric dryers, where the maximum unbalanced load has been determined in accordance with Table 220.55 for ranges and Table 220.54 for dryers
(2) That portion of the unbalanced load in excess of 200 amperes where the feeder or service is supplied from a 3-wire dc or single-phase ac system; or a 4-wire, 3-phase system; or a 3-wire, 2-phase system; or a 5-wire, 2-phase system
Informational Note: See Examples D1(a), D1(b), D2(b), D4(a), and D5(a) in Informative Annex D.
(C) Prohibited Reductions.  There shall be no reduction of the neutral or grounded conductor capacity applied to the amount in 220.61(C)(1), or portion of the amount in (C)(2), from that determined by the basic calculation:
(1) Any portion of a 3-wire circuit consisting of 2 ungrounded conductors and the neutral conductor of a 4-wire, 3-phase, wye-connected system
(2) That portion consisting of nonlinear loads supplied from a 4-wire, wye-connected, 3-phase system
Informational Note: A 3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected power system used to supply power to nonlinear loads may necessitate that the power system design allow for the possibility of high harmonic neutral conductor currents.

Regarding branch circuits, the code allows the downsizing of ranges and cooking equipment here, attention to exception 2:

210.19(A)(3) Household Ranges and Cooking Appliances.  Branch-circuit conductors supplying household ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and other household cooking appliances shall have an ampacity not less than the rating of the branch circuit and not less than the maximum load to be served. For ranges of 8 3∕4 kW or more rating, the minimum branch-circuit rating shall be 40 amperes.
Exception No. 1: Conductors tapped from a 50-ampere branch circuit supplying electric ranges, wall-mounted electric ovens, and counter-mounted electric cooking units shall have an ampacity of not less than 20 amperes and shall be sufficient for the load to be served. These tap conductors include any conductors that are a part of the leads supplied with the appliance that are smaller than the branch-circuit conductors. The taps shall not be longer than necessary for servicing the appliance.
Exception No. 2: The neutral conductor of a 3-wire branch circuit supplying a household electric range, a wall-mounted oven, or a counter-mounted cooking unit shall be permitted to be smaller than the ungrounded conductors where the maximum demand of a range of 8 3∕4-kW or more rating has been calculated according to Column C of Table 220.55, but such conductor shall have an ampacity of not less than 70 percent of the branch-circuit rating and shall not be smaller than 10 AWG.

There are no other allowances for a downsized neutral that I can find in the National Electrical Code.
Most dryers and ranges are wired with NM cable and will therefore have full sized neutrals anyway. If you are wiring with conduit, you could use this exception for the range.
The dryer circuit neutral has to be able to carry the full imbalance of the load. Since that load is unknown because you are wiring a receptacle not a piece of equipment, then the neutral must be full sized. These circuits are normally #10 wire and the range exception sets the minimum at #10 so there would be no reduction even if dryers used the same exception.
Hopefully, this will help to clarify this subject.


Is this a "fill" valve and how do I use it?

That is the drain valve, and yes the screw on top opens or closes the valve.

Normally a water heater is filled using the normal supply piping on top, by opening the shutoff valves and opening some hot water taps to release any air trapped in the system.


2-Pole 40 amp GFCI replacement for electric range tripping

Look at the wiring on the connection block on the back of the range. Make sure that the neutral and the ground are not connected. If the neutral and ground are connected, the GFCI will trip.
The neutral and ground are not supposed to be connected on the connection block with a four wire cord and ground going all the way to the panel. Some installers aren't properly trained and will leave the neutral and ground connected on the back of the range.


What is the purpose of the tube connecting to the overflow pipe in my toilet tank?

Based on my experience with USA model single flush toilets, if you would take a pitcher of water and pour it down that vertical tube (called the overflow tube), you would see water going down into the bowl of the toilet, bypassing the flapper valve.

When the toilet refills after being flushed and the flapper valve is closed, most of the water goes into the tank (cistern) but some goes through that plastic hose into the overflow tube and into the bowl. I assume this is to insure that the bowl has enough water to seal the S-drain in the toilet. When the valve shuts off the water flow, this stream of water should stop. If the flow of water out the tube does not stop, then there is a fault in the valve.

If water is continually coming out of this hose, then pulling the hose out of the overflow tube would simply redirect the leak into the tank which would over fill and finally go out the overflow tube. However, if the toilet was used frequently, then the toilet might get flushed before water went out the overflow and in a sense the leak would be stopped.

The one way I can think of that pulling this hose out of the overflow tube could "stop" the leak would be if the extra water in the toilet would cause more compression of the seal in the valve and so actually shut off the water, but this seems improbable.

If I had this situation, I would consider changing the main seal in the valve, but this operation could go wrong and damage the valve.

EDIT
If you leave the hose out of the overflow tube, you should notice that the bowl has a lower water level in it. If you would decide to just use it that way, you could keep a pitcher of water on hand and as the toilet is refilling (or after),  gently add just enough water to the bowl to bring it over the lip to seal out sewer smells. If you add the water too rapidly, then you would start the siphon action which would pull too much water out of the bowl.

If you would plug or pinch the little hose in question, then it will become pressurized something which it is not designed for. Also parts of the flow valve could be improperly pressurized. This might eventually rupture the hose or the valve assembly.


Isherwood's answer is great, however, I'd question why you are using lap joints at all if that's the type of vertical you are thinking about.

It's far less work to not bother with the lap joints and just tie the sides directly into vertical posts like this:

However if you insist on using lap joints I'd say you want every face to have to be made of it's own lap jointed rectangles, them just link the rectangles together so it looks a bit like this (imagine the top part of the frame with less overhang):


how to remove this faucet aerator? it just slips

A bit late, but for anyone still wondering I had this problem today. I took two forks and put one prong on each into those little notches and turned counter clockwise until I felt it becoming loose. At that point, I just had to unscrew it a bit more and it came off.


what impact tools are needed for subfloor in the basement?

I helped finish a basement 2 years ago with what I thought was the best carpeted floor I have walked on.

Steps

Make sure floor is flat.  It doesn't have to be perfectly flat but pretty close.  Level doesn't matter that much.  A slight pitch to basement drain is fine.  Do not level this pitch.  You should be "leveling" things because of buckling, big cracks, "steps"...
Lay down 1" rigid foam sheets - the bigger the better.
Tape the seams.
3/4 inch playwood on top of foam - the bigger the better.  Lay it staggered so there isn't a giant seam.
Predrill about 8 holes in each piece of plywood (3-2-3).
Predrill 1/4" countersink holes - tapcon screw won't sink on their own.
Drill tapcon screws into concrete floor.  The screws should be about 3 inches long - 1" foam + 3/4" plywook + 1" in the concrete (1/4" for misc gapping) - you can use 2 3/4 if you want too.  I would not go longer than 3 inches though - you do not want to have issues screwing these in.  The depth is just to keep the plywood flat not to keep it from moving.  Laying the sheets right next to each other should do that.

You can lay carpet or engineered hardwood on this.  Provides a thermal break, a way for water to escape, and is virtually noise free.  Some people will say you don need the tapcon screws.  You do.  I have personally seen a short period of moisture make 3/4" plywood curl up in a basement after it has been down for years.


As long as the connections are properly contained within a box, and the box is accessible, there should be no problem doing what you want. However, cables are usually run with very little slack in them, and you'll need enough extra wire to make the connections within the box.  If you can't get enough slack in the line, you'll have to install two junction boxes, or replace a bit of the cable.

Make sure you...

Use a large enough box.
Use the proper sized connectors.
Use the proper sized wire (if needed).
Make the connections tight enough.

Things to watch out for...

Aluminum wire.
Even though a larger size wire has to be used, the price of aluminum wire is often less than copper.
Electrocution.
Make sure you turn the breaker off before you begin, and test to make sure the power is actually off.


Someone with an engineering background can do the math. But keep in mind that, in general, air conditioning is based on a large temperature difference and a lot of air being forced through. Typical (I think - just a quick search) is ~ 40 degrees for the refrigerant, which would be on the order of 30 degrees difference from the desired temperature. So right away you are at a disadvantage because the difference will be much less. The second problem is the fan speed. A quick search found one window unit with 570 CFM. On that front, you may have a chance - I found computer fans anywhere from 30 - 200 CFM, though most are on the lower end of things. But the biggest problem is that an air conditioner works by expansion/compression to transfer heat. You don't have that here. What you have is simply cool (not "cold") water and trying to cool the air passing over the pipes.

Can't tell for sure without doing the math, but I am very pessimistic.


Those are rivets (specifically pop-rivets), they are a permanent fastener not intended to be easily or routinely disassembled and reassembled.

There are many ways to remove them

Drill

You can drill them out with a HSS drill bit of appropriate diameter for the stem of the rivet. Once you have drilled out the centre, the heads will fall out.

Punch

You may be able to punch out the center using a hammer and a suitably sized punch.

Grind

You can grind off the head using an angle grinder or something similar. Once the head is removed, the remainder will fall out or can easily be pushed out.

Chisel

Some people say they chop off the heads using a chisel and hammer. I guess they mean a cold-chisel of the type intended for use on metal, not the type of chisel intended to be used on wood.


Why would only the top outlets work in my two kitchen receptacles?

Usually, a red and black wire connected to an outlet with a broken off tab indicates that one of the outlets is controlled by a wall switch somewhere. Typically this is used to control a light from the switch next to the door to the room. However, this is an unusual configuration for a counter-top outlet in the kitchen since usually the lighting is ceiling or cabinet mounted.

My next step would be to try to identify a wall switch that could be controlling these outlets.

Alternatively, just disconnect the dead wire, cap and tape it, and bridge the screws on the hot side of the outlet.


Why is water leaking behind my new rain gutter?

The problem is partly that your drip edge isn't dripping. It may have been pulled too tight when it was installed, causing it to lay too flat. It's not really a gutter problem. The fact that rainwater was running down the fascia was an issue that needed resolution anyway.

You can try to adjust your drip edge by flexing it downward, but it may be better to fit some flashing behind it that extends into the gutter. You can purchase suitable galvanized steel or aluminum from a home supply store and cut it to fit.

The downspout solution seems ok to me. The only bends available are much too large for that situation. It shouldn't be a problem at all unless there's a blockage.


painting fence during exceptionally rainy summer

A better approach would be to set up some sort of cover, (if feasible size wise). Make sure there is air flow, i.e. don't just drape a tarp or polythene over the fence. I've got loads of quick release clamps and often use them on top of things to create a wider support for a tarp to hang clear of the surface.

It may take a week or two for the fence to dry out if it's soaked through.

Otherwise I agree with Chris, it needs to be dry. Sure, a water based preservative might tolerate more moisture in the wood than say an oil based one but still, dry is best. If you have access to a moisture meter, give it a try. Between 10% and 15% is ideal (assuming normal weather/humidity), and never paint anything over around 20%.


Is there a way to plug a NEMA 6-20P plug into a NEMA 10-30R receptacle?

You will not find a legal or listed "adapter" for this.

A 6-20 is a straight 240V grounding 20A device.
A 10-30 is a 120/240V non-grounding 30A device, where the grounding function is provided via the neutral. This is only allowed in older range and dryer circuits, so any adapter would not be legal to use on any other circuit.


How can I wire three different lights together

As long as you wire them in parallel (all hots connected together and all neutrals connected together) and each is rated for the voltage you're using, it should be fine. (I'm assuming that the wire is large enough diameter for the current being drawn, the wire insulation is rated for the voltage, you properly ground everything, and other safety issues.)
It's really no different than plugging a 25 watt bulb, a 50 watt bulb and a 100 watt bulb into the same power strip.
Edit: upon rereading your question, I am concerned and you writing about putting the lights in a "string". If you are talking about a serial string of low voltage lights connected to a higher voltage source (e. g. a string of 20 x 6 volt lights connected to 120 volt mains voltage), then no, you cannot mix wattages. You can probably mix different types of lights as long as the rated voltage and actual wattage (not equivalent wattage) are the same. If you have a "60-watt equivalent" LED which actually draws 10 watts, you must match that with other 10-watt lights. Also, you may have problems mixing LEDs and incandescent lights. Incandescent lights have a much smaller resistance when cold. If you have a bunch of incandescent lights and a few LEDs, when powered on cold, the LEDs may receive overvoltage and burn out.
Please edit your question to clarify what you are asking.


Why is there continuity between hot and neutral in the unmodified part of my circuit?

Not only the possible continuity from a lamp being the issue but if any of the switches are lighted can also be the source.
Last and most common is a plugged in transformers on the same circuit Will look like a dead short. This messes with new apprentices every time.
A transformer Looks like a short to a continuity or DC ohm meter test but AC has a reactance so it is not actually a short.


What type of cordless tool battery chemistry should I purchase?

There's a GREAT article here. I'd highly recommend checking it out. Here's a brief excerpt (ALL CREDIT GOES TO THE ORIGINAL AUTHOR!):

Nickle Cadmium (NiCd)

Pros:

NiCd batteries are more difficult to damage from heat and impact.
NiCd batteries have a longer cycle life of about 1,000 charges.
They put out strong current flow.
They are less easily damaged by being stored in deep discharge, although it is still not recommended.
They are less expensive than other rechargeable batteries.

Cons:

Nickel Cadmium batteries are the heaviest of the three types.
Lower capacity than other batteries.
NiCds shouldn't be allowed to drop below about 70% charge between charges, or the battery lifetime can be shortened.
Most NiCd batteries must be allowed to cool before being recharged.
Must be allowed to deep discharge about once a month or they will suffer severely from memory effect.
The cadmium in NiCd batteries is very damaging to the environment and must be disposed of correctly.

Nickle Cadmium Overview:

cycle life: long; 1000+ charge cycles
self-discharge: moderate, 15%-20%
capacity: low; 1.2 Ah - 2.2 Ah
optimal charge time: fast
maintenance: high; deep discharge once/month
memory effect: high if not maintained properly
sensitivity: very tough

Nickle Metal Hydride (NiMH)

Pros:

NiMH batteries are a little lighter than NiCd batteries.
They have a higher energy density, meaning that their capacity is greater than NiCd batteries, running 2 to 3 times longer in a single charge.
They are less expensive than Li-Ion batteries.
Capacity loss can be reduced drastically if charged and stored properly, making it possible to greatly increase their cycle life.
They are not destructive to the environment.

Cons:

NiMH batteries are more sensitive to temperature, especially cold temperatures, and should only be stored or operated between about 33°F - 103°F.
Deep discharge and lack of use will damage NiMH batteries, shortening their lifespan and limiting their storage capacity.
Should usually be charged after reaching 70% capacity, but should also be allowed to deep discharge every three months to avoid memory effect.
They are more expensive than NiCD batteries.

NiMH Battery Overview:

cycle life: varies; can be as long as NiCd if stored and charged correctly.
self-discharge: fast; 20%-30%
capacity: moderate; 2.2 Ah - 3.0 Ah
optimal charge time: fast
maintenance: moderate; deep discharge once/three moths
memory effect: moderate; can be avoided with proper charging
sensitivity: very sensitive to temperature

Lithium Ion (Li-Ion)

Pros:

Li-Ion batteries are the most light-weight of the three kinds of rechargeable batteries.
Li-Ion batteries benefit from high energy density like NiMH batteries do.
They are much less sensitive to damage from temperature changes than NiMH batteries.
Li-Ions are not restricted in the shape of their design like NiCd and NiMH batteries are, and can be designed in almost any shape for better tool balance.
They do not suffer from self-discharge and memory effect like NiCd and NiMH batteries, meaning that they're much less sensitive to recharging and storage methods.
They have the longest charge/recharge life cycle of all three types of batteries.
Li-Ion batteries are not destructive to the environment.

Cons:

Excessive overheating of Li-Ion batteries can damage or destroy them, which can occasionally happen during recharge. However, most rechargers and Li-Ion batteries are designed with safety features to prevent overheating.
They have the shortest overall life cycle of about 300-500 charges.
Li-Ion batteries are the most expensive batteries of these three types.

Li-Ion Battery Overview:

cycle life: short; 300-500 cycles, or about 2-3 years.
self-discharge: very slow or not at all.
capacity: high; 3.0 Ah+
optimal charge time: moderate
maintenance: none
memory effect: none
sensitivity: sensitive to heat and impact


What can I use to back a door jamb strike plate with no framing behind?

I know of nothing short of installing something in the wall behind that frame - and oddly your door jamb does not have a stud there for the frame to mount to, as far as I know this has been common for a LONG LONG time.

From a security standpoint sounds like even the old system was there to keep honest weaklings from going rogue.

So you can remove that Jamb and install some framing stud in the back of it , use screws to attach it how you need to so you do not need to cut your wall, other wise you will need to cut that wall to fit and there are a couple options here - cut only at the top and bottom and remove the jamb or cut a piece all the way down and install the stud.


Should I drain all the pipes before a freeze?

Shutting off and draining the water is a good idea. If for no reason other than an unnoticed leak could cause considerable damage.  Don't forget the water heater and fridge if it has an icemaker since the power is off. Also the toilets, flush them after you have the water off. Then use a large sponge to sop up the water in the bottom of the bowl. Dip the sponge in and wring it out into a bucket. For extra insurance pour some RV antifreeze into the toilets and sink traps.  Use RV antifreeze not automotive antifreeze as the RV type is nontoxic and flushable.  When it comes time to turn the water back on remove all the faucet aerators or they can become clogged with sediment. Run the water until clear before reinstalling them.


How do I repair a small leak in a steam radiator? Could this be a big problem?

I haven't had very good luck with repairing steam radiator patches from the outside (sample size: 2). Steam under pressure is very good at finding microscopic holes between patch and substrate, and enlarging them.

What I have done successfully is an inside patch with epoxy, using a wire brush and steel wool to prep the surface. Getting at the leak may be a challenge, particularly with a radiator that has more than 4 sections you may need to break the sections apart (if you do, this is an excellent time to get the exterior sandblasted and painted).

Simplest and most cost-effective solution is probably to find an architectural salvage shop and replace the radiator (they might take your old radiator as a partial trade).


Code question: Can electric range outlet with 6 Gage wire be exposed under surface mount box?

NM, UF and SE all have specs in different chapters, but generally are all similar to the NM requirement in 2017 NEC 334.15(B) that "Cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary by ..."
Unfortunately "where necessary" isn't well defined in the Code and is mostly up to the interpretation of the inspector. Generally a surface receptacle installed two inches off the floor, behind the range (like the instructions posted in the comments above) would not normally raise to that level if the existing hole lined up with the zone required by the stove. If it doesn't line up you could create a situation where damage is possible and protection would be needed if you don't drill a new hole. Some jurisdictions (like Chicago) have adopted additional requirements that require conduit, you can normally find local ordinances online.
Actually the code doesn't specify the exact size of circuit for a range, but the circuit has to have adequate capacity for the range used. For greater than 99% of electric residential ranges #6 copper 4-wire cable and a 50 amp breaker would normally satisfy the requirements for the range. Sometimes a 40A breaker is called out as required or allowed, but a 50A (NEMA14-50) receptacle is still used with a 40A breaker since NEMA hasn't designated a 40A configuration.


Are the wires for my generator transfer switch undersized?

I received a good answer from the manufacturer. I wanted to post it as an additional answer. Thanks to all for the mention of UL and appliances being separate from general NEC building codes. I've learned a lot from the comments and the other answer (which I've accepted).

UL 1008 is the standard these devices meet.

Here is the email response. They have been very professional and timely in their response and the product is well-built. I recommend them:

  Hello, thank you for the inquiry and for choosing our product!

  The wiring we use inside the Q-series cabinet, specified as factory
  wiring, is sized in relation to the testing for heat-rise on wires.
  In a factory wired electrical product, the wiring within can be
  potentially rated at any size that passes the heat-rise tests set
  forth by the testing lab, in this case Underwriters Laboratories Inc.
  6 AWG is rated for 55 amps and is required for most 50 amp
  applications when dealing with general wiring, but the wiring in the
  transfer switch does not fall under this category as it's enclosed and
  presumed to be unchanged after the factory build.  If number 12 wire
  were to be sufficient in passing all of the stringent UL testing, we
  would use that instead of number 10 wire.

  I understand the concern and it's true that you will see 6 AWG wire
  for most 50A applications, the number 8 and 10 wires in the Q510C are
  permitted through the listing of the product by UL as they passed all
  of the testing that is required by the national standard for transfer
  switches (manual), UL
  1008.  There are actually a lot of potential applications that could use smaller wiring than what is considered normal, but the NEC isn't
  able to differentiate every application in the codebook so they have
  very standardized wiring regulations to enhance safety and avoid
  undersized wiring.  In this scenario, we are using a smaller gauge
  wire but due to its short length and enclosure in the cabinet it can
  handle a 50A load with no problems.  Please let me know if you have
  any questions, thanks!


Looking for bearing part for GE Washer Dryer Combo WSM2700HBWWW

There are three possibilities: 1519 which is just the bearing, 1540 which is the motor that has bearings in it and 1603 which is the transmission hub which also has bearings in it. None of these parts are cheap so I suggest some major disassembly to determine exactly which part is bad. I'd start with part #1519.


Installed Ceiling Fan, Now Light Switch Not Working Properly

Another thing that seriously needs to get corrected is the totally unacceptable workmanship of the wire attachment at the switches. The wire insulation should be right up at the screw head. The tail end of the wire should only extend out from under the screw heads by a very small amount.

If this wiring was prepared by someone that you paid to do the work you should take proper recourse to get them back to correct this extremely shoddy work.

If you have no recourse then you owe it to yourself, for safety and peace of mind, to get this mess cleaned up.


Metal spike with heavy metal cord found in front lawn

It's a grounding rod, probably 8 or 10 feet long, such as is required for any residential installation. They're usually proximal to the breaker panel or fuse box in the home or outbuilding. You may have encountered an obsolete one that's been disconnected. You'll need to trace the bare copper wire to be sure.

You can drive it down below the surface if you like. Try not to damage the wire, which can also be buried a bit deeper without causing problems.


Which type of vertical window shades are the most durable?

I have vinyl in my new (to me) home (the blinds are probably as old as the house, about 30 years old), and my parents have had weighted cloth blind slats in their roughly 20-year-old home. Both have generally stood up pretty well, but depending on exactly what you expect them to withstand, they have different strengths and weaknesses.

Cloth:

Generally more flexible, so it won't crack or split when folded.
Better tensile strength; resists tearing.
Machine-washable (sometimes; often they'll wrinkle easily, but can be ironed out).
Cloth slats use metal weights at the bottom to keep them straight. These things cause all kinds of headaches, mostly by falling out or tearing the stitching of the pocket that holds them.
Cloth slats are almost always flat; even curving the ends generally does not cause a curve along the entire slat. This increases the gap between slats when the blinds are fully closed.
Cloth slats will attract pet hair; if you have cats or long-haired dogs, you will be forever trying to get the hair back off the bottom of each slat.
Cloth slats also attract pet claws, and will show damage from being scratched very quickly.
Cloth absorbs liquid, so spills will stain them.
UV tolerance depends on the exact material used. Any way you slice it, off-white colors are generally best as UV-bleaching won't change the color that much.
Most cloth slats are somewhat translucent, so light will get through even with the blinds closed.

Vinyl:

The slat itself is heavier, so there usually isn't a need to weight each slat.
More rigid form than cloth allows for the slightly-curved design that blocks light best.
Generally spill-tolerant (vinyl like most plastics is partial to red dyes, so if your kid spills cherry Kool-Aid on the blinds, get after that pretty quickly)
Doesn't attract pet hair, and claws don't make much impression.
Most vinyl is completely opaque, so vinyl slats will block virtually all light that would shine through.
More prone to shearing (tearing/splitting), especially with age.
Crease marks (from where the plastic was bent beyond the elastic limit) are permanent.
Hand-wash only with a damp rag; you can't just take them down and throw them in a clothes washer.
Will show puncture-type damage like chew marks more clearly than cloth.
Heat can more easily warp them, especially if they're not left hanging completely vertically (e.g. gathered behind a tie rod)
Generally a little more prone to sun-fading than most cloth.


How do I diagnose an open circuit where several outlets are not working?

Broken wires don't trip breakers, they just cause outlets to stop working. An insta-tripping breaker means a genuine short circuit aka bolted fault. (lots of things are incorrectly called that, but this really is that).

I don't think the toaster oven had anything to do with it.  IF it had failed immediately AND it had failed "open" (outlets stopped working but breaker held), then yes.  But not in this case.

You need to check every outlet (that is now off).   Look for burning, arcing or spalling. Look on side screws, especially those sticking way out because nobody ran them down,  too-long wires sticking out of backstabs, ground wires, and sides of metal boxes.

The most common is the bare ground wire gets too close to a hot screw or contacts a too-long backstab wire.


What's the most economical way to remove a wood stove?

The pipe is likely held together with sheet metal screws. You don't want to leak heat from your interior to the attic, so that section of pipe should be removed, preferably from above.

The section from attic to above to roof might be useful as a vent, if it is in good shape and not leaking.


Removing switch that turns on / off the outlet

Turn off the breaker
Remove the face plate.  You should find two (usually) black wires on opposite ends of the switch.
Remove the switch, and join the two black wires with a wire nut.
Turn on the breaker, and test the outlet
Put a blank face plate on the (now junction block)
Install cabinets
Cut a hole in the back of the cabinet to access the junction box.


How can I remove excess tile mortar from grout lines?

Depending on your grout gap, an oscillating tool with a grout blade could work well.

If your gaps are substantially wider, a narrow chisel might do the job.

I'd avoid any rotating tool as you're likely to slip and damage your tile.


How do I prop-up or fix a wall that is slowly moving?

More than likely, the column of blocks has settled slightly causing your problem. I can't see from your picture, but has the gap between the top blocks and wall also opened slightly? If it has, then your blocks have shifted. Usually the weight of a large gate, such as you have, causes this problem on a fairly new install, especially since you only have a one block column.

My suggestion would be to add some "L" bracket supports or other mounting directly to the wall and column. Use your imagination and I'm sure you can find or make something that would look nice with the finish of the wall and blocks. Whatever you use, be sure to mount it to the block first, flush to the finished edge. Then screw or lag it into a good solid point of the wall (stud or plate) in order to use the mechanical advantage to pull the column, close the gap and restore the column to the original plumb-line, or at least stop any additional settling and tilting. Mounting the brackets to the same block the gate hinges are mounted to would help support the weight of the gate and not stress the mortar joints of the rest of the column. Be sure to consider sealing any devices you may have to install in the wall to prevent any water from entering. If you end up needing to use some ugly but strong utility type brackets, you could build a nice looking small valance box covering and stucco it to match.  Lots of decorating alternatives.

The bottom line is to devise a way to attach the sides or top of the column firmly to the building and stop the settling from getting worse and making your nice gate inoperative.


Running 240v from two separate 120v receptacles

Don't hokey-doke this thing when it's so easy to do it right.

You already have the right wires in the wall

You already have a dedicated circuit for your table saw.  I presume you don't plan on running both saws at the same time.  So we'll simply convert the dedicated table saw line to 240V and we're done.

Let's talk about the difference between a 240V circuit and a 120/240V circuit.   A 240V circuit has 2 hots and a safety ground.  A 120/240V circuit has 2 hots, neutral and a safety ground, and is able to power both 240V and 120V parts of the machine - such as a dryer's motor/timer or an oven's light.

A table saw will need 240V power.  It has no use for neutral.

Convert the 120V saw circuit to 240V

The cable is converted from hot-neutral to hot-hot simply by marking the white wire with black tape to redesignate it a hot.

Now, it must be punched down onto a circuit breaker.

We could do some very difficult rearranging of panel space. However there's an easier way.  There is a 20A 2-pole breaker in the left side center.  We'll replace that with a 20/20 tied quadplex. Possibly a Siemens (ITE) Q22020CT2, which provides two tied 2-pole 20A breakers.

The inner breakers are tied and also are common-trip.  I don't know what that existing 20A breaker serves, but it might need common trip.  So we place that on the inner.
The outer breakers are tied, but do not guarantee common trip (they do promise common maintenance shutoff).  They are suitable for this saw.

So for this saw circuit, remove the hot from the old saw breaker, and its partner former neutral (the one now marked with black tape).  Both those go on the two (outer) hots on the new breaker.

By the way, whoever runted all your hots and neutrals to barely enough length to reach the breakers they're on now.... don't invite them back.  Every hot and neutral should be long enough to reach every breaker space in the panel.


Metal lines connected by metal fittings to metal enclosures which actually have power connected to them, and therefore also have grounds connected to them - so, they already are grounded.


A fluorescent light is an arc-discharge light (like neon, sodium, mercury vapor and metal halide).  There's a tube of gas and cathodes on each end.  It takes a high voltage to strike the arc, and a less-high voltage to sustain it.

4-foot T8 and T12 tubes have 2 pins on each end of the tube. They connect a small incandescent style filament, whose job is to preheat the cathodes to reduce the strike voltage and ease wear-and-tear on the tube.  Instant-start ballasts ignore this filament and use an extra high voltage to strike the arc.

Some LEDs want 120V on 2 pins on the same end, and the other end is a dummy.  On those, if you put a real fluorescent in there, you can expect a Pop! as the filament burns out.

Since you got the powered on opposite ends type of tube, I would expect nothing to happen.  The strike voltage of a 4' fluorescent tube is significantly  above 120V, especially without preheating.


Is there a type of interlock (transfer switch) that can be used for a generator OR solar panels?

Simply put a box and splices in the middle of the feeder

Here's the rub -- transfer for a generator works differently than transfer for a hybrid solar setup (which is what you're probably envisioning -- forsaking grid-tie capability is simply not worth it unless you take the whole house off-grid).  With a generator, the transfer means is essentially a big double-throw switch -- the common connects to the standby subpanel main, one throw goes to the feeder from the main panel, and the other throw goes to the generator (perhaps via an inlet).  The number of poles depends on if your generator has a neutral-ground bond and if your standby system is 120VAC or 240VAC -- other than that, there's really not that much to it.

However, solar systems that are capable of operating a significant standby load in this day and age can also be set up to grid-tie when the grid is present -- to do this, they use a single throw transfer means that is basically internal to the inverter.  The inverter output and standby loads connect to one side of the transfer means, while the grid input connects to the other side of the transfer means.  As a result of this, they can operate stand-alone or grid-tied, but basically need to be in series with the feeder to take advantage of the latter, which is something you really want to take advantage of.

As a result, putting a box and set of splices in the middle of the feeder is the best plan -- this provides a "hook" that can then be used to install a transfer switch or hybrid inverter at a later date, given the drastically different connection requirements of the two.  You could put  what's called a bypass/isolation switch in with the non-bypass poles broken out separately so that you can connect a generator to the standby-side poles; however, standalone bypass/isolation switches tend to be hard to find, and are not necessary unless you are sure you are putting in a solar setup.

If you really want to spend the money now...

While premade, standalone bypass/isolation switches are quite scarce (they typically are shipped with things like UPSes), it is possible to wire a four-pole transfer switch as a two-pole bypass/isolation switch.  Most four-pole transfer switches are quite costly, though, but there's an exception -- modular UL98 switches such as the TeSys VLS series from Schneider Electric are available for a reasonable price and can be configured for this job.

One caveat first though: this approach does not extend to generators that have bonded neutrals (i.e. are wired as separately derived systems). You'd need six (!) switch poles on each side, and it does not appear that the TeSys VLS series can be extended that far.  Additionally, hybrid solar setups are never wired in a separately-derived fashion, so bypassing the neutral would not make sense in such a setup.

For a 60A switch, you'll need:

A switch assembly, consisting of:

a. 2 Schneider Electric VLS3P063R2 3-pole, 60A, UL98 rated rotary disconnect switches

b. 2 Schneider Electric VLS1P063R2S 60A simultaneous-operation additional poles

c. and a Schneider Electric VLS8C2 rotary interlock
A 15" by 15" by 4" (minimum) NEMA enclosure of the appropriate type (for NEMA 1 aka indoor apps, the SC151504 from Wiegmann works) -- if you use an enclosure deeper than 4" (such as a 16" by 16" by 6"), you'll need a subpanel within the enclosure to mount things to instead of the back of the box
3 Burndy BDBMHC222/02 power distribution blocks with BDBMHCCOVER covers for each pole
Some standard (35mm by 15mm) DIN rail (you only need 7.5", but it tends to come in meter lengths, so just get a pack)
2 40mm DIN rail support brackets (Weidmuller 792427-0040 or equivalent)
About 6' of black 6AWG stranded copper THHN
Grounding supplies:

a. A 10-32x1/2" self-drilling grounding screw (Garvin GSST or equivalent)

b. A 1-hole copper or AlxCu offset box grounding lug that accepts 6AWG stranded wire and has a #10 screw hole (Ilsco SLU-35 or equivalent)

c. And a 1' length of green 6AWG stranded THHN to use as a grounding jumper
And mounting hardware:

a. M6x8mm machine screws for mounting the DIN rail to the brackets

b. #14x3/4" self-drilling screws for mounting the DIN rail brackets to the enclosure

c. and #10x3/4" self-drilling screws for mounting the distribution blocks to the enclosure

as well as an inch-pound torque wrench with 3/16" and M8 hex bits and a #2 cross-drive screwdriver for assembly.

Put the switch assembly together, then attach the parts to the back of the box (or subpanel, if you're using one -- the subpanel installs first in that case) as governed by the drawing below -- parts denoted by dashed lines install first, and the bold line denotes the front panel cutout needed for the switch.  Note that if you're using the minimum specified enclosure, you'll want to terminate the far outermost black jumper wire onto the left and right power distribution blocks before screwing them into the box, or else hooking up those two wires will be harder than it needs to be.

Once everything is installed into the box, then the jumper wires can be fitted as per the diagram below (the wires in the top gutter and between switch terminals themselves, as well as the green grounding jumper) -- torque the terminals to 120 in/lb on the power distribution blocks and 50 in/lb on the switch.  Then the box is fitted into its final mounting location and wired (with the wires landing on the distribution block terminals).  Once it's all wired up, put the covers on the distribution blocks; finally, put the front panel on once the cutout in it for the switch has been made.

As to explaining this to the electrical inspector, all the parts specified that need to be (the blocks, box, wire, and switch) have appropriate UL listings, and the usage of the blocks here with the supplied covers conforms to NEC 314.28(E) as the box is big enough, the covers keep live parts from being exposed when the box cover is off, and there is sufficient wire-bending space.

Last but not least, if you need 100A here, you'll need to use 3AWG wire instead of the 6AWG for the jumper leads in the box (save for the grounding jumper), and use a 100A switch (VLSxP100R2x) instead of the 60A switch specified.  (The power distribution blocks are rated for well over 100A.)


Actually everything is working. This kind of gas oven, that uses the Hot Surface Ignitor / Igniter, can take up to 25 seconds to fire the gas.
After turning the oven knob:
Between 0-5 seconds, I don't see anything happening.
Between 5-15 seconds, you see the igniter getting brighter (orange color).
At some point after 15-20 seconds, you finally have fire.

Coming from a gas with a pilot light, I was used to have close to instantaneous fire as soon as you turn the oven knob (because there is fire, pilot light, already).

Thank you all!


I recently build a 8x14 shed using 2x8 pressure treated joists and there was no bounce.  It felt solid with a 3/4" PT plywood floor.  Your design is larger, so I agree with the 2x10 that you spec'ed.  I don't think you'll have an issue it all.

I was originally going to try and save some money so I mocked up a few combinations of 16" oc and 24" oc with 3/4" and 1/2" plywood since it was "just a shed".  The joists 16" oc with 3/4" ply was the only combo that felt solid (as expected).  The shed had a small 4' "porch".  For that I did use 24" oc joists with 5/4" PT deck boards.  That was a stretch that I wouldn't have made for a full on deck, but it was fine for the small porch that would only have a few people on it with no static load.

I had 6 piers, so your 8 sound good.  The only thing I second guessed is the depth of my piers.  I was digging alone, and manually so I didn't get them as deep as they should have been.  I didn't notice a problem, but I would suggest getting the recommend depth in your area for sure.


You are mixing amps (a) and volts (v) in your description so I can't tell what you have measured from that. I seriously doubt you are measuring amps, so assuming you are measuring volts, having a 20V difference between the two legs indicates a serious problem with something; either your skill-set or the equipment. I agree that you should exercise the main breaker a couple of times; a bug may have crawled into it while it was off, and now its squished carcass is causing a resistance. After that, it's time to call an electrician.


Several thoughts, which could be used alone or in any combination:

1.) Have you thought of so-called "swamp coolers" (evaporative coolers)?

These devices work on the principle of evaporative cooling.  There are 2 basic types: Direct cooling and indirect cooling.  The direct cooling units are VERY simple and easy, but may result in air that is too humid to be comfortable (even though it is much cooler).  The indirect is more expensive and hard (but not nearly as expensive as conventional AC), and results in drier air.  Some systems use both methods: pre-cool the air via the indirect method, then run the cooled air through a direct cooler.  The result is cooler and drier air than either method alone.  All methods work best with very dry air (which it appears you have).

DIRECT method: Dry outside (or even inside) air is drawn through a wet screen or filter.  The cooled, moist air is pumped directly inside.  This method can be as simple as throwing a wet towel over a fan.

INDIRECT method: Dry outside air runs through a wet screen or filter, to get cooled, and then across a heat exchanger which.  The dry air picks up moisture which cools the unit.  Inside air blown into the opposite chamber of the heat exchanger is cooled, but picks up no moisture.  Even this relatively complicated method is easier and very much cheaper to build (and operate) than an AC unit.

2.) The simplest way to keep things cool is to deny the sun entrance.

I had a home with a large skylight  in the kitchen.  Because I lived in a very temperate part of the northwestern U.S., I had no AC.  In the summer I would block off the skylight totally with a very light custom-cut board lined with aluminum foil; then take it down in the fall.  It made a huge difference (probably 5C in the kitchen).

You could do something similar, using greenhouse shade cloth, chimney flashing, or many other items that run the gamut of the aesthetics/functionality tradeoff.

3.)  Venting the hottest air (from the top) and replacing it with cooler air will help; or you could leave that air alone and recirc the cooler lower air, to make it even cooler.  In either case, forcing the air through deeply buried pipes would cool it.

The temperature of the earth, almost anywhere on Earth you would want to live, is roughly in the neighborhood of 50F (10C).  You just have to dig down deep enough to access that temperature.  All the desert critters know this: that is why they stay underground during the day.  Even if you only want to go down two meters, you should be able to access constant temperatures of lower than 15C.  Then you bury some pipes and force the air through them.  The air heats the dirt, but that dirt is cooled by the surrounding dirt.  Basically you are using mother earth as a heat sink.


How should I go about leveling my basement floor?

I would still recommend going with self leveling concrete.  If you only need to level off a small area, then just put some 2x4s around the edge of that area to use as a form so you can get away with using less compound.


Do all outlets in detached workshop need to be tamper resistant?

Yes it is required by the 2014 NEC, the 2014 Code says:
406.12 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles. Tamper-resistant receptacles shall be installed as specified in 406.12(A) through (C).
(A) Dwelling Units. In all areas specified in 210.52, all nonlocking-type 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles shall be listed tamper-resistant receptacles.


How handy are you? Plan to hand dig or use machines? You could do several things. My dad has successfully chained one to the truck, pulled it over past upright, dug out underneath it on one side, dumped crushed gravel and or concrete, let it back down, pull to the other side and repeat. You could also use a tractor that could lift it out of place, excavate the area and re-do the foundation. If you plan to make it permanent, lay the column down, drill holes and add rebar to them, then upon re-placing it, sink the rebar into a bed of concrete properly prepared.


How should I go about a partial (bottom 1/5) exterior wall stud replacement?

For a 1 time event like a broken waterheater or pipe failure I doubt the studs need to be replaced. A 3% Hydrogen peroxide works better than bleach and dosent stink. All wood has mold spores at the lumber mill we spray the wood after the finish cuts or it will look ugly in a few weeks. The fungicide is only a short term preventive measure, keeping the wood dry is the only way to prevent growth. Using a screwdriver push in on the wood If it is rotten the blade will go in with ease If just surface mold the screwdriver won't go very deep unleaded pushed hard.  If the wood is sound a 3% hydrogen peroxide and water solution is all that is needed to kill the surface mold once the area is dry replace the insulation and sheetrock.