Partial frosting is a common sign of loss of refrigerant pressure, i.e. a leak in your evaporative cooling system. You've already addressed the other likely causes of frosting (great!) but that leaves you with the likelihood that it's a leak (doh!).

Refrigerant chemicals are environmentally toxic and potentially hazardous, so at this point you should either have it professionally serviced or replace it (disposing of the old unit properly).


Does this look like loose fill Asbestos?

Nope. Looks like cellulose. Of course, I'm looking from the other side of the internet and you shouldn't bank your health on my guess.

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-test-for-asbestos/


Replacing a ceiling light fixture, I found a wire adapter

I would cut the existing ends off and use wire nuts to make the connection. Just about every hardware store will have wire nuts and even some grocery store’s have small bags. Cut the wires off strip the insulation and twist the nut on and it is done in seconds.
Added

I have not seen adapters for these styles of plugs usually you have to find the right style , cut the wrong one off crimp the ends then insert them into the new shell , so you can see wire nuts would be much easier and quicker.


Reattach quarter-round molding under front door

Once you get the holes size gauged for the finish nails you will use, you will need to drill the holes once the shoe is in place to a depth of about 1". To help accomplish this, use a small piece of tape 1" from the end of the bit so when your tape touches the shoe, you know you are at the right depth. Your nails should slip into the holes you just drilled and when you drive them in, what has not been drilled will hold the nail securely. Drive the nail flush, or near flush, finish it off by setting the nail below the surface of the shoe with a nail set. They come in sizes, use the one that is the smallest, typically called 1/16"


What are good uses for tandem (double-stuff) breakers?

No, in fact if you don't NEED to use them, you should not. All breakers give off heat and cramming more breakers into a space not designed to handle that heat leads to things overheating.

Most panels now have to specifically ALLOW you to use tandem breakers and will LIMIT the number of them that you can use. This came about years ago because before that, people were overloading their panels and the heat was causing breaker failures and fires. So the designation is called "CTL", short for Circuit Total Limitation and all panels made since 1965 must now have that on the label IF you can install CTL listed tandem breakers. What that means is that in the mechanical workings of the panel and/or how the breakers attach to the bus (everyone does it differently), there are only a few spots where you can plug in CTL listed tandem breakers, because there is some sort of "rejection" clip or feature that prevents them from being installed anywhere else.

Unfortunately, a LOT of the breaker mfrs have not changed their basic designs since the 1960s, so if you manage to find breakers that are NOT CTL listed, that means they don't have the rejection feature and you can install them willy-nilly in the manner that caused the fire issues in the first place. As a general rule, you can't buy those breakers as new in hardware stores, but the internet has made this something that people can do again, even though they should not, and the issues are rearing their ugly heads once again. Inspectors will nail you on that if they see it in your panel, but that only happens when you take out a permit for something.


Trip switch goes off 50% of the time when turning off an appliance

Really hard to answer this because there are unknowns.

What does that earth light mean? No earth/ground/ or there is a ground.
How's it wired inside? If they wire it between live/hot and earth/ground that is already an imbalance. Maybe the switch on the 6-way is double pole and neutral opens before the hot. That will cause an imbalance and may trip it.

Try another 6-way with no earth indicator.

Or unplug the strip not switching off the strip's switch. Just leave it on.


Help with transition between rooms using hardwood and laminate flooring

I’d try keeping them flush, you’ll have expansion allowance on both floors anyway. Just think of it as one floor with expansion gap around the perimeter.  Which it will be effectively


How to fix metal bulkhead holes caused by rust

Bondo is good for filling dents or depressions, and will probably do fine for completely filling small holes of this size.

Epoxy putty is also a choice, often found in the US with either plumbing or car repair supplies.  JB Weld is one common brand name; it has metal powder mixed in it so it dries very hard and durable.


Does mirror like wallpaper suitable for a mini dance studio at home exist?

You can get chrome mirror finish vinyl (with a self adhesive backing). To get an effective mirror effect on a wall though, the wall would need to be very smooth, or it would easily show distortion - think a "hall of mirrors" type effect.

Signwriter suppliers would be the place to look for it.


First ascertain the complete set of outlets that are on the circuit by testing which ones go off when the main breaker is turned off.

Now turn the breaker back on and then press the TEST button on the GFCI. The result of this is that all the outlets that are connected to the LOAD terminals of the GFCI will go off. Those that are up still powered are those that are upstream from the GFCI.


Running wire through built-in drywalled entertainment center

Not entirely sure what exactly you're looking for, but several companies make in wall runs for tv/speaker wires. Most just assume you will be running the cables in the wall itself, and provide either blank-canvas wall plates. Some provide end point connectors in order to provide a wire 'socket' for the wall plate.

Here's a video tutorial on a simple version of this.

http://www.diypete.com/how-to-hide-tv-wires/


Easy way to remove tile concrete from bathroom wall?

Easy, no.  It's a dirty, dusty, hard job.

I have used a 7 1/2inch circular saw fitted with a diamond blade.  Shop vac, dust mask, fan in window (box fan fitted with furnace filter does wonders)

I set the depth of the cut to be just the thickness of the mortar and try to cut vertically along each stud.  Depending on your helpers back strength, I'll cut horizontally at 2 to 3 foot intervals.

Pry each panel off (large crowbars or flatbars) usually its held together with a metal lath (wood in older homes, pre 1940s).  Watch your toes, each piece will be 20-30 lbs.

PS leave the first row removed laying on the floor. It will absorb the fall of any dropped pieces... Nails holding the lath will act like hinges then let go at inopportune moments.


To which terminals do you connect a phone jack?

L1, L2 cross-references to TIP and RING respectively per standard US phone nomenclature. TX/TS can be wired as the second line TIP2/TX, RING2/TS or a sort of daisy chain, but in a single line system, can be ignored.

Wiring on this will be

Green => Tip => L1
Red => Ring => L2

This pair will connect to the center pair of contacts in the modular socket/jack. Most phone wall cords sold are RJ-11 with a single pair to save money.

What the phone company has given you is a standard T-568A (Cat 4 or 5) color coded single pair. If you examine it closely, one wire's insulation will be white with blue stripe and the other will be solid blue.

It cross-references to the old RING/L1, TIP/L2 wiring convention as follows:

White/Blue => Green => Tip => L1
Blue => Red => Ring => L2

RJ Modular wiring:

RJ-11 Single Pair
RJ-14 Two Pair
RJ-25 Three Pair

POTS Local Loop voltages (positive ground to reduce electrolytic corrosion):

Tip is at ground potential
Ring is -48V DC (nominal)


What types of electrical outlets are found in a typical home in the USA?

To answer all the issues you raise would require a book on US electrical wiring. Or several. And a copy of the Code.

The vast majority of outlets in residences in the US are attached to branch circuits that are rated at 15 Amps and 120 Volts. Current practice and code calls for outlets like these

This version is tamperproof, required in many jurisdictions. The non-tamperproof look similar, but the slots do not have internal baffles

You may see different styles, such as Decora, or decorator style, which are functionally identical to basic outlets, but have a rectangular face

20 Amp circuits generally require slightly different outlets (if you are going to draw the full 20 Amps or there is only one outlet on the line) like these

But you can also find the lower 15 Amp outlets on circuits that are properly wired for 20 amps. Obviously 15 Amp outlets are limited in use to 15 Amp appliances, even if they are on a 20 Amp line.

Certain locations, especially where there is a risk of moisture, such as bathrooms, require a ground fault interruper (GFI) type outlet

These also come in tamper resistant and 20 Amp versions and vary like the basic outlets.

All of the above are grounded outlets, required in almost every jurisdiction for new construction and renovations.  Some older installations may have ungrounded outlets.

These generally cannot be used except as a direct replacement for an existing one, and even then setting up a properly grounded outlet is preferred and may be required.

All of the 120 Volt outlets require a hot wire (usually black or red) and a neutral wire (always white). Grounded outlets also require a ground wire (green or bare). Outlets can be always live or switched. Live outlets have the hot wire coming directly from circuit without interruption. Switched outlets have the hot wire going through one or more switches before reaching the outlet so that the power can be turned on or off.

All of the 15-20 amp outlets shown above are duplex, that is there are two receptacles for plugs on each.  These almost always are bonded together by a strip of metal.  When you wire to one, both are energized. This bonding strip can be broken off allowing each of the receptacles on the outlet to be powered separately. This is most often done to allow one receptacle to be always live and one to be switched. This also allows each receptacle to be on a separate branch circuit (for heavy power use).

Some residences use higher amperage outlets for large appliances, such as an electric stove or dryer, and the outlets vary base upon a number of factors. Examples can be seen in the chart linked in the question.

Similarly, some residences use 240 Volts for large appliances and wells, and the outlets also vary considerably, and can be seen on the linked chart.

This is a very brief summary of the type of outlets most commonly seen in US homes. The full range of outlet types and uses is beyond a simple summary.  The range of possible switching and wiring configurations also is nearly infinite.  But this site welcomes questions on any particular configuration or problem you may encounter, so ask away.


Can a circuit with three-ways be split in two branches?

Some inspectors will give you a hard time over that usability issue. Three-ways are required in certain hallways and stairways, and an inspector who doesn't know when a three-way is required and when it isn't, might simply reject anything that confuses him.
You can purchase a single yoke device with two three-ways, that physically occupies one gang location in a switch box.. Perhaps you could wire your circuits like this:
             three-way (1a) ===== three-way (2) ===== ceiling-mounted fixture A
panel =====<<
             three-way (1b) ===== three-way (3) ===== ceiling-mounted fixture B


How can I determine the maximum wattage that I can hook up to a breaker?

Power (Wattage) = Current x Voltage (P=I*V)

20A X 240V = 4800W


How to protect exterior phone line connection from the elements

Yeah, that's a bad joke, I wonder who your phone company is...

If you insist on DIY... it does not particularly need to be waterproof - the splice connectors are filled with grease, so they are waterproof.  Buy a plastic electrical box (no holes) and cut slots in the box part so you can get the cable in place without cutting it.

Don't make the slots too large. If you want to try for waterproof, use duct seal (gray electrical putty, non-hardening) around the cables in the slot. Screw the cover on, pack some more duct seal on from the outside.

If you choose to use self-fusing tape, choose from the electrical aisle (well, it may not be in your average hardware store/home center, so you might need an actual electrical supply store to find it), not late night TV or plumbing repair. The box is going to be more robust and easier to access.


Caan someone check my wiring of a digital timer?

Instruction Manual.

The issue may be more with how the old timer was connected.  How were the Black and Red at top connected for the old timer?

Does your light have two separate switches?  If yes, you could have a three way switch.


How to fix a garbage disposal with rubber caught in it?

Reviewing the design of a garbage disposal here it seems very difficult for anything like a chunk of rubber to actually get jammed in the grind ring.

If you were to put something in there like a chunk of rubber (or bone), it seems likely it will bounce around and not get ground up at all. Small bits or rubber might get broken off in the ring but by the design they should be washed down the drain. I have experience with the piece of bone thing and it does, in fact, just bounce around irritatingly refusing to be ground up.

It would seem the worst things for disposals are slimy sticky things that are not water soluble. These materials could get into the grinder ring and clog it up similar to a file being clogged with paint.

So, if your piece of rubber was batted into the disposal by your spiteful cat, it is likely still in there bouncing around. Your choices are: have a child or slender-wristed lady fish it out; or remove the disposal, dump it out and possibly disassemble it to clean it out.

BTW you may want to keep the cat a little happier since you do have to sleep sometime.


Our second shower sits unused for weeks and sometimes months at a time (daughter moved out.)  About a year ago, a horrible smell started emanating from that bathroom - after many unsuccessful attempts to kill the smell, I finally realized that the P-trap under the shower floor must have dried out, allowing sewer gas to rise up through the drain.  I ran a couple of gallons of water, and the smell went away.  I run that shower for 30 seconds or so once a month, and the smell has never come back.

So: any unused plumbing fixtures in that washroom?


Why won't my washer machine motor, gearbox, or inside basket free spin

It is normal for resistance to be felt when attempting to rotate the motor driveline attached to the gearbox. Gearboxes have a fair bit of friction and are attached to a rather heavy tub. This machine is equipped with a tub brake that is supposed to engage during the spin cycle if the lid is lifted. The spinning stopping fairly quickly is normal. Continuing to spin indicates the brake has malfunctioned. I'm not sure if you are referring to the wash or spin cycle though. If it was wash cycle, it does sound odd, but I doubt the coupler would be at risk.

When off, the inner tub should be difficult to turn, but it should turn, you are turning the entire drivetrain and motor rotor. It cannot be deduced that there is a problem with the motor or gearbox with the information given, but I think failure of either is unlikely. I'm actually not hearing anything indicating anything is seriously wrong at all.

Since you asked, a new gearbox mail ordered in the US has a list price around $200 plus shipping. I would expect a rebuilt one to be 2/3 to 3/4 of that. Replacement is disassembly of the whole tub/agitator assembly, a fair bit of work.

Interestingly, another person is having difficulty with his Kenmore machine not spinning. It's well known that Kenmore appliances are rebadged name brand appliances. The parts diagrams of his and your machine look remarkably similar, if not identical. Probably an unrelated problem though, it's just curious.


The sill plate touching my foundation isn't laying flat, it's about 10 degrees tilted. How do I install a header below it?

Ideally, you want the plate to fully bear on the header. The fact that a twist developed indicates there is not any appreciable load at this location, so it probably does not matter much what you do. It's tempting to try to take the twist out so everything is straight and true, but you may just end up causing the studs above to not bear on the plate. The installation may look better, but you have not gained better bearing. Further more, the suspended studs could eventually settle, causing cracks in the finish and creating stress risers nearby due to differential settlement.

This leaves the viable choices to either shim or cut the header top on an angle to match. While shimming has the appearance of shoddy work, it is actually the best way to ensure full bearing. Focus on getting good bearing under the studs above, the space between studs is not that important.

You should place sill sealer under the window's sill plate, some standing water could potentially sit here. You don't need it behind vertical members to protect the PT wood from moisture, but you will want to do something to limit infiltration. Sill sealer works well for this, but you can use other methods if you prefer, such as polyurethane foam, or simply setting the king studs in sealant.


What are the frames at the ends of benches called?

What you have there is the modern soulless crappy plastic injection molded version and the old classy cast iron bench ends.

Do a search for cast iron bench ends and you will find a world of benches and bench ends from basic to elaborate and ornate.

Go out a find a pair Paint them black and ad some oak slats, your DIY street cred will go up considerably.

search result image page


Old mobile home wiring, outlets stopped working

Hire an electrician.
If your outlets are catching fire, there’s a significant safety problem present since your house clearly isn’t wired to code. Electricity is dangerous in ways that aren’t obvious to a layperson, but a trained professional should be able to safely solve your problem for you.
It’ll cost you some money, but it’ll cost you less money than buying a new house would if your house burns down due to dodgy wiring - especially since it’s possible your insurance might refuse to pay for it due to a pre-existing flaw of the property that you knew of and failed to take steps to correct.


Requirement for splicing neutrals in a switch

If your splices are failing, that is a technique problem.  A competent wire-nut splice should be reliable.

It doesn't matter legally, you can either leave zero spare length, 18" of spare length so you can splice to it if needed, or actually fit a splice.  You always have the option of running a replacement wire if needed since it's conduit -- that's why it's legal.


Gas fire place main burner stays on low flame

Sounds to me like a simple case of a blocked jet. Depending on your competencies with gas appliances either get someone to service it or you can do it yourself.

For the latter, locate and remove the jet for that burner, normally located closer to the know than the burner itself. Using a proper jet cleaning wire clean the jet by pushing the wire into the jet from the outlet end, so that any crud is forced backwards, rather than through the jet.

While you have it apart, check the inside of the burner pipe and remove any scale that has built up, which could come loose and reclog your jet.

Of course if you can get hold of a replacement jet you may find it worthwhile simply replacing the clogged one.


Securing wires while replacing European electric plug

Simple. You strip the wires, turn the strands a bit, stick them in the holes and screw it tight.
Ferrules are better, but not essential*.

Then clamp the outside shroud of the cable with the cable clamp.

Like this:

I've actually glued the stress relief here.

*Notice the European C plug is limited to 2.5 Amps.


How do I cleanly cut threaded stainless .24" rods?

A 4.5 inch angle grinder with a thin cutoff disk is the tool I'd reach for first, after threading the nut on.

If you don't have one but do have a circular saw, and the lengths you are cutting allow, an abrasive cutoff blade in the circular saw can also work. This one is listed for less than $2.50

Expect sparks. Clean out all sawdust if you use one of these in a saw that you also use to cut wood with.

For larger scale projects they do make a 14" chop saw version.

You can additionally clean up the cut threads with a triangular file or a thread-restoring file.


Soldering a Tee onto a Copper Pipe That Only Moves About 1cm?

If you make another cut in the pipe (either above or below your T - it doesn't matter), you could fit a Union there:

Solder the 2 halves of the union first so that they're ready to re-join the new cut, then solder the T.
Since one piece of the pipe you're soldering into the T only has the half of the union on it, you should have enough wiggle-room to get it all assembled.
Once you've finished soldering the T, screw the union together.


Water pump pliers or pipe wrench with PVC pipe?

If it's a fitting similar to this.

I'd go with an adjustable spanner (also known as a crescent, or adjustable wrench). As it has smooth jaws, and will not mar the surface of the soft metal fitting.

If the fitting that this is threading into, is also a hex fitting. I'd use another adjustable spanner, to hold that in place while tightening the joint. If this is threading into a pipe, or fitting that is smooth. I'd use a pipe wrench to hold the smooth pipe/fitting in place, while tightening the joint. Wrapping a rag around the pipe before grabbing it with the pipe wrench, will reduce the marring of the pipe being held.
If you're transitioning from one type of pipe to another, you might want to consider installing a union. This will allow you to disconnect the pipes, without having to cut the PVC/CPVC. A union that goes from brass to PVC/CPVC, might be just what you need.

If you're threading a brass fitting into a PVC/CPVC fitting, you might want to rethink that idea. If you're threading PVC/CPVC into a brass fitting, you might also want to rethink that.

Update:
With the fitting posted, I'd probably; very gently, use tongue and groove pliers (also known as Channellocks).  Though  if it were me, I'd probably avoid that fitting. I'd use a PVC/CPVC to brass union instead on one side of the valve, and a hex adapter on the other.


How do I determine which is my common C wire?

Your C wire is indeed the one that's labeled C
While your setup with the condensate pump is a bit more complicated than most, it doesn't change the fundamental way things work.  Your thermostat still puts 24V on Y to call for cooling, which gets passed on by the condensate pump to the Y1 terminal on your control board.  Your AC compressor is connected to that Y1 terminal, so it sees that signal and starts the compressor; we then know that the other wire coming from the AC is a C wire, and lo and behold, it lands on the terminal labeled "C" on the control board.
As to getting a spare wire, you could use an "add-a-wire" gadget of some sort, convert your furnace to single stage operation, or simply run a fatter thermostat cable, the choice is yours.


Can this sheetrock be repaired or does it need to be replaced?

Most anything can be repaired with enough time, money, materials and skill.

Sheetrock, however, is one of the cheapest building materials we use, so when it comes to repairing wall and ceiling surfaces, typically the cheapest/easiest solution is to just re-sheetrock.


"Click-Lock", "Engineered", "Engineered Click", and "Solid" hardwood... Is there a difference between "Engineered" and "Engineered-Click"?

Can you share the SKU on the "Engineered Click" option you're seeing? At that price it's likely HDF plus a wood veneer or thin layer on top. You should also be able to tell if you can look at a cross-section of a plank. HDF is likely better than MDF/plywood/softwood for the layers and may or may not be better than hardwood depending on who you ask, but it is definitely cheaper since it's a recycled product.

I was able to find the more expensive products you shared on the HD website, and they're real wood throughout (no HDF). Both are engineered in that they are in layers rather than one solid plank, even the click-lock.

The price difference between the two is just based on what thickness and installation style you want. The more expensive one per square foot is thicker (1/2" vs 3/8").


You cannot identify asbestos-containing material by looking at it.
If in doubt have it tested!


Wiring timer switch into 2-gang switch setup with common load (red) with downstream load

Don't pay attention to the colors

The red wire going to the existing switches in your box is actually a pigtail from the hot feed coming in (the junction of the two blacks), while the two black wires from the switches are the switched feeds going back out.

So, nut the black hot wire from the timer to the existing junction of always-hots that you've pulled out and a pigtail to provide always-hot to the other switch, while the appropriate black switched wire gets nutted to the red wire from the timer.  The timer neutral goes to the neutral junction (white wires) that you've pulled out, and the timer ground goes in with the rest of the grounds (which need an actual wirenut on them FYI).  Finally, the yellow 3-way wire can stay nutted/tape-insulated off as you don't need it, as you have already indicated.


How much energy will continuously running a furnace fan use?

Where to find the specifications
Listed on the furnace
Somewhere inside the service panel of the furnace, there should be a schematic for the furnace.  This may list the electrical specifications of the blower motor.  If not, the blower motor itself will have a label on it.  It should list the voltage, amperage, horsepower, etc.
Using an Ammeter
An ammeter is used to measure the amount of current flowing through an electrical circuit. You can use a clamp on ammeter to measure the amount of current being used by the blower motor while it's running.

Simply set the meter to measure current (A in the pictured meter), and clamp it on the hot wire feeding the motor.
This method may require working on or near live wires, please use caution and/or consult an expert to take the readings
Calculate Usage
With the above information and Ohm's law, it's easy to determine how much power the motor will use over a given time period.
Ohm's law says that Power (P) = Voltage (V) x Current (I), so we can determine how much power the motor uses at a single instant in time.
ex.
P = 115V * 5.2A
P = 598 Watts

Next we have to determine how many kilowatt hours the motor will use, which we do by dividing by 1000.
P = 598 W / 1000
P = 0.598 kWh

So for every hour the motor runs, it will use 0.943 kilowatts of power.
Total power/day = 0.598kWh * 24h
Total power/day = 14.352kWh
Total power/month = 14.352Kwh * 30
Total power/month = 430.56kWh

Finally, if you multiply this number by the amount you pay per kilowatt hour. You'll see just about how much it costs to run the motor constantly.
Cost = 430.56kWh * $0.07
Cost = $30.14 per month

Notes:
Results using this process will be an estimate only.
Values used are not actual values, they are example values only.
Calculations may be incorrect, nobody checked my math.


What is this pipe - should I be worried?

It an abandoned sewage and vent pipe. It was replaced, and the roof patched where it used to exit. Apparently they never got around to finishing the job, or just figured it wasn't any problem leaving it like it was. As to whether it's safe, since it hasn't fallen yet, it probably won't. But, you could get a ladder and pull on it to make sure. And no, there isn't a structural integrity issue. I'd finish off the basement ceiling to hide it.


How can I install modern locksets on these interior doors?

You're going to have to drill a larger hole for the new handles, which should completely encompass the old hole.

Head on down to your local hardware store (or cruse the internet), and look for a door handle installation jig like this Irwin® Door Lock Installation Kit

Example only, these jigs are available from many different manufacturers

It comes with the proper size hole saws to set up a door for modern locksets, and makes alignment of the holes quick and easy.  Simply attach the jig where you want it, and drill the holes with the supplied hole saws.


Is denim insulation more inviting to packrats?

To add to the other answers; Mice seem to like fiberglass.  I have found nests in my grill, and under a rain barrel that were made from fiberglass they've managed to collect out of my house.  Mice have managed to get into my basement and nest in the fiberglass batts on the basement ceiling many times over the years.

I try to air seal the foundation sill area when I can.  I feel that if they can sense the warm air leaking they will try harder to find a way in. PestBlock (mentioned by KCasper) is a new product.  I've bought a can.

I've been told that regular expanding foam is not something that rodents have trouble chewing through. Another technique is to stuff steel wool in the crack and foam that in.  Rodents don't like chewing on steel wool.


Trouble Opening a Fluorescent Light Fixture

It is bit difficult to tell from the picture.
Often on those older florescent fixtures the plastic panels have a integral plastic flange on their top edge that supports them- they basically hang inside the metal frame. So they drop in from the top- inside the fixture. To remove them lift up on the plastic and carefully flex and rotate them to get them out. If your fixture is real old then the plastic may have become more brittle and care should be taken not to damage them.


It looks like the Drylock FAQ covers this and I missed it.

  Q. Can DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer be used over paint?

  A. Yes and no. DRYLOK® may be used over any other cementitious-type
  waterproofing paint in good, repaintable condition, either inside or
  outside. However, DRYLOK® cannot be used over an oil or latex-based
  paint on the inside of a building. DRYLOK® will adhere to these
  paints, but if it cannot penetrate into the pores of the masonry
  itself, it will not waterproof the surface.

and also:

  Q. Can you paint over DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer? If yes, what is
  the procedure?

  A. Yes, using a good quality 100% acrylic latex paint. DRYLOK® Masonry
  Waterproofer can also be tinted for a decorative finished coat.

So it seems clear that you should put the Drylock on first and then any other paint, including the anti-mold primer.


Running conduit from an old rectangular 2 x 3 exterior box?

Unscrew the light fixture on the cover of the box.

Screw in your conduit fitting.


WD-40, A box wrench and a pair of pliers. Apply WD-40. Get the wrench on the nut and gently hold the bolt down as low as it can go. Turn your wrench while holding the bolt. Hold the bolt with the pliers harder until it frees up. Be careful to not marre the threads because you will have to bring the nut down through the damaged section if damage occurs.

A better way is to cut a slot in the bolt with a cut off disk on a grinder and use a slotted screw driver to hold the bolt in place. This method is potentially dangerous and not recommended if you are not comfortable and experienced with a grinder.


How do I turn up the water pressure to my kitchen sink?

If the water pressure and flow are OK in the rest of the house the problem of low flow in the kitchen is with the shut off valves under the sink or the faucet. one or all are restricted with something. That something could be dirt or calcium from the old tank or the water lines. If the faucet is newer, most have small fittings and small lines that can plug or be restricted easily. I have had to replace the valves under my sink and clean out the fittings for the connecting lines in the faucet.


How to determine the correct hardness setting for Water-Right Sanitizer Plus Softener

Ed Beal is right about personal preference. Although water that is too hard or too soft can also have implications for your water system and equipment such as pumps, dishwashers, etc.
Dealing strictly with the issue that your wife is having with soap not rinsing off easily you'll need to increase the hardness of your water. In order to determine how much, go to a local pool supply store and purchase a simple pool/spa water testing kit. You don't need anything fancy, you only want to measure PH levels. Follow the instructions and measure the current PH level of your water. That will give you a base point. Slowly adjust your water softener to increase the PH in small increments. Once you have it at a comfortable point measure it again and use that as your target PH level. You should be able to find info on adjusting PH in the instruction manual or on-line.
The link you posted in your question explains how to adjust hardness when following the installer setup instructions.


It was meant for ducts.  It's just been obsoleted by better products.

I mean for ducts.

However it was never the best at the "all purpose tape thing" people currently do with it.  That honor goes to gaffer tape.

Gaffers are lighting electricians in theater, film, TV and electronic news gathering.  Gaffer tape is to affix cables and lights temporarily to finished surfaces, without marring or gumming the finished surface.  When you see a TV shoot in some CEO's beautiful office, and there's enough light in that office to shoot, it's because gaffer tape is holding some mini lights to the walls in the right places, and their electrical cables are taped down to the carpet.  Can you imagine taping cable down to carpet with duct tape?  And when the shoot's over, all that tape comes up with no mess.

When you reach for duct tape, what you really want is gaffer tape.  Gaffer tape is not cheap, maybe $15/roll for the lesser and $25/roll for the better stuff.


Running wire to sub panel in shop 80 feet away

Make the splice in the panelboard itself

I'd use a two-pole aluminum rated power distribution block of suitable size listed to UL 1953 and rated to IP20 (such as a pair of Eaton/Cooper PDBFS303s, dovetailed together) to make the splice inside the panelboard cabinet instead of in a separate junction box.  Then you can run a pair of 2/0 jumpers from the distribution blocks to the panelboard terminals.

This takes up a bit more panelboard cabinet space, but is neater and cleaner than having splice lugs hanging loose in the panelboard or having a separate box just to splice wires.  Check with your AHJ first though, as there is the off chance that they're not OK with mounting things to a panelboard cabinet that the manufacturer did not originally intend to go there.

(Making the splice in a separate box is also possible, just slightly silly as you'd need more wire and parts to do that vs. doing the splicing in the panelboard cabinet.)


Sill Pan for Exterior Door - Importance VS. Requirement

The Code does not require a sill pan for doors or windows.

However, I live in a high wind area and wind will drive rain up hill between every crack and crevice in siding, thresholds, etc.  Here it would be silly not to use a sill pan, but we use a one piece stainless steel pan AND set it in roofing mastic. We even use it at deep overhang areas like porches, because the walls, windows, doors, etc. are washed from time to time.


How can I prevent this ice build up on my driveway/walkway?

I'm not a professional, and I have very little experience. But:

Could you adjust the slope of your gutter?

Currently, rain rolls north off the roof, gets to the gutter, half goes east and half goes west. If you lower the north-east corner of the gutter (and gently slope the whole gutter toward it) a majority of the rain would head down the east spout instead of onto your driveway.


Why are all of my appliances becoming energized when ground wire is excluded?

It is unlikely that the chassis is getting "energized" for multiple reasons. First of all, if it was grounded the breaker would trip. Secondly, the power draw of a washing machine would be very dangerous if you touched it. Also, the design of such devices is done to make such accidents rare, otherwise the manufacturers would be facing hundreds of lawsuits. That you see the same thing in multiple appliances makes it improbable that it is current leak. (What is the probability that ALL your appliances have a dangerous current leak? Negligible.)

If you are convinced there is a current leak, it is easy to test. Just touch one end of a voltmeter to the "energized" chassis and the other to a ground. If it reads 240 volts, its energized. According to another post the OP apparently did this test and it turned out negative, confirming there is no hot chassis here, it is static electricity.

The shock is probably due to static electricity. Both washing machines and air compressors will build up very strong static electricity charges due to rotary motion. If this is not discharged by a ground, static electricity will accumulate and charge up any metal on the device. You also see this same effect on cheap, ungrounded shop vac-type vacuum cleaners.


How to visualize air circulation between rooms?

The best way to see air flow is to use a fog there are commercial cans really expensive or if your grocery store has dry ice buy a pound, when you get home , put some warm water in a pan and put a chunk of the dry ice in the water, as the heat breaks the dry ice down a cloud of non toxic smoke that will leave no residue is released.
I used to put a couple bowls of water on the porch and in a fish pond (no fish) on Halloween, as long as there was no breeze the fog looked really cool and the kids loved it , we needed to check ventilation on some process benches and I used some pvc pipe water and dry ice to make the smoke in a clean room and check flow , putting the dry ice in a pan with warm water will do the same and makes it easy to see how the air is moving.


How often and long should my fresh air intake run?

In our area, these systems are required to make sure that your house has sufficient fresh air to combat sick building syndrome.  The amount of fresh air required is based on a lot of sophisticated equations of square feet, number of occupants, etc. But after all that, not one word is mentioned about how long it should run in a given 24-hour period. It is totally left up to the home owner. If you have an active house  hold with the doors opening several times a day with normal coming and going.  You don't need any additional fresh air.  If you are a shut-in with very little coming and going, I would say 15-minutes twice per day.


Actually you only want to use fiber insulation against cold surfaces (rim joist) when you can completely cut off the air supply from the interior.  Interior air carries a lot of water.  The air moves through the fiber insulation and condenses when it hits the rim joist and you have a potential issue.

Better way is to buy a sheet of foam board insulation, like the blue or pink stuff, a can of spray foam insulation, and a roll of fiber insulation.  Cut the foam board so it fits loosely over the rim joist.  Fill in around it with the foam in a can.  Cover that whole thing with the fiber.  Now the dew point is inside the foam board where the air can't reach.  No condensation, really good insulation.

If you want to get all geeky, you can calculate the dew point location in the assembly based on exterior and interior temps, interior relative humidity, and insulation type and thickness, to make sure the dew point is in the foam.  For example, don't use 1/4" foam board and R-30 fiber.  Use 2" foam board (about R10) and 6" fiber (about R19) and you should be OK.

BTW, same principle applies to cold basement walls.  A nice layer of fiber insulation against the wall commonly creates a mold problem.


Easy peasy.  This is what conduit is for.

I propose putting 2 circuits in it.  However, there are strict rules on conduit fill, and putting 2 cables in a conduit is impossible to do legally. So don't even try  - switch to THHN individual wires. Now you have plenty of room.

Yes, you'll need to find an appropriate point to install a junction box.  Now, if you do any splicing in this junction box, any at all, you'll need to do the cubic inch math.  However if all wires simply pass through the box, and never will be spliced, then you can treat it same as a conduit body and any common box with enough physical space will suffice.  I'm a big fan of that one, so I advise running 2 separate ground wires - one for the range circuit and one for the garage circuit.  That way you don't have to splice in the box.

If I wasn't splicing, I'd use a 4-11/16" square deep box.  This box must remain accessible, it can't be mudded or plywooded over.

The oven circuit needs a #10 ground wire. It really should have been put in at the time, and you'll have a chance to fix that now. Its neutral also needs to be #8.

I know you're familiar with 8/3 cable, but you cannot use 2 cables in a conduit - the only way it works is individual THHN wires.  You're not obliged to use conduit all the way - you can transition to 8/3 cable at any junction box with enough cubic inches to handle the splice.  But if you do run conduit all the way, you get to run a higher ampacity: #10=35A #8=50A #6=70A.

The range needs a #10 ground (use bare to save conduit fill) and the garage circuit needs a #10 also.

The #8/#8/#10/none wiring to the range was (well, is) incorrect.  It needs to be #8/#8/#8/#10.   Further, if somehow it is cable, it needs to be switched to THHN wire because of the conduit fill problem.

Even if they are individual THHN wires, you need to pull them out of the conduit.  You cannot modify the piping with the wire in it. Code prohibits this, and you'll nick the wire - trust me.  Put the range circuit back with a #8 neutral and #10 ground.  I don't care if you convert your range connection to 4-wire (removing ground jumper) today, but I hope you do it soon.

I've run the numbers and the biggest you can do is
- a #8 circuit to the range and a #6 circuit to the garage
- #8 circuits to both range and garage, with space left over in the pipe for up to 2 additional circuits!

A #6 cable to the garage could carry up to 70 amps if the whole run is THHN in conduit.  If you switch to cable for part of it, then you're limited to only 60A.   A #8 cable is similarly limited - 50A THHN-in-conduit, 40A if any cable is involved.

Or you could go with a big subpanel!  You could potentially pull three #3 copper THHN wires (#8 ground) to the garage, and fit a subpanel there.  The #3 copper wire would allow a 100A subpanel.   That would fill the pipe, however you wouldn't have room for any more wires.  You would then have to double back from the subpanel to serve the range.

* If you can't avoid a splice in a box, here are the gory details on the cubic inch math: Each #6 wire needs 5.0 cubic inches.  Each #8 needs 3.0.  Each #10 needs 2.5, #12 needs 2.25 cubic inches.  One #10 ground can be shared among all circuits. For cubic inches, you only count the largest ground once, and all other grounds are "free".


How can I protect my rug from being dented by table stands?

Put something under the table legs to diffuse the pressure to a wider area.  Something like the circle disc (2 inch variety) furniture moving pads would work for something like this.


How do I seal/paint pine casing for maximum lifetime?

If you're going for maximum lifetime, you should make sure to prime all cuts with an oil based primer.  If the lumber didn't come pre-primed, then prime all surfaces with an oil based primer.  If you use a fast drying primer, you can get a coat of paint over the cut before you install it.  I wouldn't worry about using a "sealant" between the boards.  I'm guessing you mean "caulking" when you say sealant.

You should install the trim, and then caulk the seam between the two pieces of lumber after the trim is on the wall.  Let it dry over night, and then apply two coats of paint over everything, including any caulking that you've applied.  One mistake I see fairly often is that people will caulk something to try and keep water from getting in, but then they don't paint the caulking.  The sun dries it up, it shrinks just enough for water to get behind it, and then the caulking has the opposite effect.  It actually traps moisture behind itself, slowly rotting the joint that it's meant to protect!

The best thing you can do for yourself in all of this has nothing to do with paint.  Make sure you buy solid lumber.  Do not ever use finger-jointed pine in an exterior application.  I have seen so much rot over the years, because people use finger-jointed lumber in high moisture environments, and it just falls apart in a decade or less, even when it's been painted.  That stuff is for interior use only!


Replacing subpanel that was fed with 3 wires

Your feeder appears to be in metal conduit, which is the grounding conductor
Since your feeder appears to have been run as wires in a metal conduit, that conduit would serve as your grounding conductor provided it is continuous back to the main panel.  I would turn off the feeder at the main panel and do a continuity check from the neutral lug on the panel to the panel cabinet, though, to make sure of this.
... and that "hook" wasn't ever needed in your situation
Note that the "hook" you describe, which is more properly called a lug on a bonding bushing that was present in the old installation, wasn't actually ever needed in this case, since the conduit does not have service entrance wires in it, just feeder wires, and your circuits are running at less than 250V to ground.  (Bonding around concentric/eccentric/impaired KOs in the fashion you describe is only required for service entrances and circuits upwards of 250V to ground, as per 250.92(B) and 250.97 respectively.)
You will need to have those open knockout holes plugged though
Unless the contractor is planning on using those open holes in the top of the panel for a cable run when they come back, they'll need to put knockout plugs in the open KOs in the top of the subpanel in order to keep junk from getting into the panel and causing trouble there.  (They're a Code violation for that reason.)


How do I secure an old aluminum/glass sliding door?

If the 2 door panel in the middle overlay each other completely, you can pilot holes through the first panel for the screw to slip through and a smaller pilot hole in the outside panel for the screw to tap into. Only drill where the metal is hollow. The glass only goes into the metal no more than 3/4" so there should be plenty to drill into so the drill does not hit the glass.


If I want to add an additional receptacle, which wires do I tap from an existing receptacle?

Unfortunately, the box for that receptacle is already full to the brim with wires -- 6 14AWGs is the maximum for a 2.5" deep single gang box such as the one you have here, and with the double allowance that is made for the receptacle, you already have too many wires in it as-is.  Going to a deeper box won't quite get you enough space to tap here, either -- a 3.5" deep single gang has room for only 9 14AWGs without a device or 7 with one, and you need 8 14AWG wires (2 existing blacks, 2 existing whites, 1 existing red, 1 EGC allowance, 1 new black, and 1 new white) + a double allowance for the receptacle device.

So, you'll have to replace this box with a bigger box if you wish to tap the circuit here -- a 2 gang box is the simplest replacement option, with the other gang blanked out to make room for all those wires.  Once you've done that, you can connect the new cable's black to either the existing blacks or the existing red, and the new cable's white to the existing whites -- you'll have to pull them out of the backstab and make a white pigtail to the outlet neutral, though.  You'll want to put a ground pigtail on the existing receptacle and connect it to the existing grounds, in addition to tying the new cable's ground in, too.

The other option would be to remove the switch entirely from the the box that housed the switch that used to control this outlet (if you haven't done that already, that is), and then you can run the cable for your new outlet to the former switch location -- that box, sans switch, will have enough room to house the 6 14AWGs (existing black, existing red, existing white, EGCs, new black, and new white) provided it is the same depth as this one, and box replacement is an easier option in this case as you can go up to a 2.5" deep single gang if the existing box is too shallow.


Do the 2 individual 120v legs coming from meter into main panel have to be connected to specific terminals on the main shutoff breaker?

No, there is no "positive or negative" or "left and right" or whatever.  This is the same when hooking up a 240v appliance.  The two legs don't matter and there is often no way to differentiate the legs other than maybe black and red.


A/C circuit breaker blowing after 15 minutes of runtime

The breaker may be faulty or there may be a fault in the a/c condensing unit. Breakers are so cheap and easy to replace that I would replace the breaker, but those more knowledgeable about a/c's may know better.


The faucet is leaking. How do I remove the faucet handle pieces?

I've got the same cheap Glacier Bay faucet in one of my bathrooms. There is a screw in the top of the part of the hot & cold that actually rotates. Very similar (not sure if it is identical, but should be close enough) item at Glacier Bay Teapot 4 in.. Download the Replacement Parts List and what I am talking about is screw # 2 underneath # 1 and # 14 in the diagram.


Floodlight randomly, dimly lights even when lightswitch is off

It appears from the 45606 manual that this model is not designed for use with anything but incandescent loads:

  This dimmer switch is designed for use only with permanently installed
  incandescent lighting
  fixtures. Do not use it to control fluorescent lighting, transformer
  supplied lighting/appliances, motorized appliances or receptacles. The
  incandescent lighting controlled by this dimmer switch must not exceed
  a total of 500 watts.

And

  Minimum Load: 40W, incandescent lamps only.
  Maximum Load: 500W, incandescent lamps only.

From my understanding of these Z-Wave dimmers, the ones that are LED compatible utilize a neutral (white) wire. This model does not appear to have a neutral wire.

Dimmable LED Compatible Model

The GE 12724 (ZW3005) Z-Wave, In-Wall Smart Dimmer (Interchangeable Paddles) is listed as compatible with dimmable CFL and LED loads:

  UL Listed to work with dimmable LED & CFLs

  Screw Terminal installation; requires wiring connections for Line (Hot), Load,
  Neutral and Ground. Traveler wire required for multi pole installation

  Maximum Load: 600W, incandescent; 150W Dimmable CFL/LED


Here's how you can get a shock from a "neutral" wire: you had multiple white wires, only one was the neutral leading back to your circuit breaker/fuse panel. The rest are extending the neutral to other fixtures/outlets. Let's say that one is a light fixture and its switch is on. When you undid the white wire bundle, the white wire going to that light now becomes hot: voltage is coming through the closed switch and the light. You'd get a shock from that white wire, but only when you'd disconnected it from the true neutral.

Now, as for the volt meter, did you meter the individual white wires to ground, or only the complete bundle? As I noted above, you would only see voltage on that white wire when it was disconnected from the real neutral wire.


Pre-Romex AC circuits to DC for offgrid Solar

In principle, you can do this. In practice, you'll need to talk to someone about local electrical codes. Running parallel low voltage DC and 110 AC circuits can be done, but like I say, you'll need to talk to a pro.


Adding constant powered outlet to existing switched circuit

It really depends on how the wiring was done.  If power goes first to the porch light then to the switch, there will be always-hot up in the light box.

If power goes first to the switch then to the light, then it's likely the switch interrupts power to the light.  In that case you will need to bypass the switch and do one of the following:

have the porch light operate on a photocell or motion sensor
abandon the porch light
go with any of a variety of smart-switch-control technologies that lets you put a receiver in the lamp base, and a transmitter in the switch location.  For instance the X10 system goes back to the 1980s. Or newer systems allow you to control the light from New Zealand with your phone.


How can I protect the plywood base of a tile table against the weather?

You may consider not using plywood at all. Once you frame the table, user cement backer board with a decoupling layer since those are the preferred substrates for tile.
Then you will have much fewer concerns about moisture, because the tile will be properly bonded, and provide its own waterproofing layer over the wood framing.


Check the code for you area it likely specifies the minimum pound per square foot that a code compliant deck should support (for my area it's 50 pounds per square foot).
Based on a guess of the planter size based on board width my guess is you may have a problem. I'd also note that if you live in an area that gets snow then I definitely be concerned as the holly will hold snow (additional weight) and cause drifting just where you don't want it (yet more weight).
Have you considered the fake outdoor privacy vines you can buy?
Jonathan


What size extension cord should I use for multiple computers?

Extension cords need to be chosen according to the length and load. The following chart will guide you to the correct gauge to choose for any one extension cord.  You might choose several different gauges in order to save money, properly configured you won't need to put 12awg wire everywhere:

To carry 20 amps any distance, you'll need 12awg cable. You could use one 50 foot 12awg cable to carry the current to a table, then three 16awg cables to carry the current to one or two computers each.

You might find it cheaper, however, to run two 14awg wires in parallel from one outlet than to run one 12awg wire.

Keep in mind that while some cable calculators and tables will indicate that 16awg can handle 20A, the cable will heat up, and if you've properly secured it to the floor using tape or channels with other cables running parallel, the heat buildup can be significant and dangerous.  Particularly with long runs.

You should also consult with the hotel - many of them have requirements for extension cord use in conference areas, and in some cases you will be required to use their cables and installers in order to meet their safety and load planning requirements.

If you pay attention to the chart you'll note that each cable size and load include a voltage drop. You'll also realize that due to the wiring at the venue you'll see a voltage drop at the outlet as well.  This will result in a lower voltage at each computer than 120V.  However, as long as you keep your voltage drop below 10%, and the venue is wired correctly producing a less than 10% drop to the outlet under load, then it is unlikely that your computers will experience any problems.  Most computing equipment that uses AC power has a universal power supply that accepts a wide range of voltage, often down to 90VAC.  It will be a rare computer or peripheral that will have problems with the voltage drop presented by a suitably rated cable.


Can i reuse a water string filter with a backflush and vinegar flush

I think that you would be better served by a water conditioning company. When I moved into my new house 42 years ago I had a similar problem and I tried to correct the problem myself. When they failed I called "Culligan" who was the best company in my area at that time. A great gentleman came and tested my water. He recommended a solution that I thought was very expensive. I called a couple other companies but they were all reluctant to sell me anything. The guy from Culligan  solved my problem. That man stated that my water condition was the worst that he had ever seen. 20 years I sold that house and the system still worked well with a minimum of service calls. I am glad that I called in a professional.  my 2 cents


No. This setup will not work.

You cannot add a loose neutral or hot wire to a cable like that.

If the mini-split absolutely requires neutral, then your only play is to replace the entire cable with 10/3 or 12/3.

If you are madly in love with that GFCI recep and cost is No Object,  then replace the entire cable with 10/3 or 12/3.

Otherwise you don't need or want that disconnect.  Get a simple one with no recep.

Honestly you are probably better off keeping the fused disconnect you already have... and changing the breaker in the service entrance location to 20A.  When multiple devices provide overcurrent protection is in a chain like this, only one of them needs to be the correct value.  The others can be larger.

So your existing 30A fused disconnect can continue in service if you simply change the panel breaker to 20A.  It no longer functions as overcurrent protection, simply as a disconnect.  But that's fine.


The red is your switched-hot, so connect the black from your fixture to that
It appears that your switch was wired so that always-hot could be passed along to downstream lighting outlets while providing a switched-hot at those outlets as well, while power comes in at the switch.  So, you need to turn the breaker off and move the black wire from the fixture over to connect with the red wire from the ceiling instead of the black wires.  Then you can button the fixture back up, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy your new switch!


Is there supposed to be a gap between the wall and the roof?

Is it supposed to be like that?

There needs to be air circulation in unheated space to prevent condensation causing rot.

  It's freezing up there

That is good. It means your loft insulation is working.

  I'm more concerned about animals entering the house.

I found fixing wire-mesh externally to any small gaps at the top of the walls keeps unwelcome types of animal out. You could instead apply this internally.

The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds encourage builders to make provision so that critters can enter your roof to nest.

Note the wire-mesh guard to prevent them getting to areas where they would be unwelcome.


Second coat of Quikrete High Performance Self-Leveling Resurfacer

The OP added this in a comment:

  I never heard back from Quikrete from the email support request so
  called the customer support number and the guy was very helpful.

  Answer: Yes. Multiple coats can be applied. Restrictions - wait 24
  hours. Pour additional applications up to 1".

  I was envisioning the stuff freely flowing all over the floor like
  water, but it's cement. Mistakes I made:

  Not having maximum amount pre-mixed and ready to pour (literally) at once.
  Underestimating amount of material I needed.
  Trying to smooth it with a floor squeegee. Don't touch it!
  A bit too thick


Induction power source across 1/2" of wood?

It is possible, but the energy losses are great, and the insulator (your desk) will heat up, probably causing heat damage.  Even then, the receiving coil wouldn't be integrated into the base of the lamp.

In short, there's no way this wouldn't be even more obtrusive than a cord hanging off the side of your desk.  If the desk is against a wall, probably better to put in a desk height electrical outlet.

The reason induction charging works for cell phones is due to tiny air gaps, low power requirements, and generally good heat dissipation compared to energy losses.  Only a tiny fraction of the used power actually makes it to the cell phone.  But the phone is storing that, so eventually (over the course of an evening) the phone is charged.  By the way, most phones lack receiving coils, so you still have to plug in a receiving coil and wire into the phone charging jack.

Power that is not directed tends to dissipate according to the inverse square law.  Even if it didn't, the losses in transforming the power to wireless and back are quite large.  Some of the wireless community is quick to point out the wire transmission losses, but that's nothing compared to wireless.

With a lamp, you'll need a lot more power, and continuous power, so the issues with induction fed systems will become a lot more apparent.  I would recommend a battery powered LED desk lamp (with a set of rechargeable batteries).  The LEDs will extend the time between recharges.


Extend dryer termination away from condensing unit

Remove the vent cover, attach some rigid duct work, run along the house a few feet, put the vent cover on the end of the run. Make sure the end of the new run is lower than the exit point, so that moisture/condensation will never run inside.

BTW, make sure the ductwork inside is rigid. If it isn't replace that too.


How to take down a lath and plaster ceiling

I'm in the process of a large plaster-and-lath removal; my methods have evolved over the course of the project, maybe these tips will help others who find this question.

I found that it's easiest to peel the lath one or two pieces at a time.  Pull it with a pry bar or crowbar exactly where it's nailed to the joist (in my case this meant four places), and then pull down the wood piece itself and set it aside.  The plaster will bend as you're bending the wood; it will peel off the ceiling and fall to the floor.  You can then shovel the plaster into containers and cart to a dumpster, e.g.  The hardest part of this process is getting a line started: it takes some digging with a pry bar to get your first piece.  Once you get going it goes quickly.

It's easy and very effective to just smash everything down but then you have a big mess: the lath won't cooperate with bagging or shoveling and so has to be picked out.  Maybe this is my OCD but I bundled most of mine and posted it to Craigslist and it was gone over the weekend--evidently some DIYers are doing the opposite of you and me.

I didn't find an effective way to keep the dust out of the air, instead just wore a respirator.  I found that the plaster dust dries out the eyes too.  The hose method you mention might be worth trying.

A few other tips:

This will be obvious but don't expect to be able to carry a big contractor bag full of plaster; a 5-gallon (e.g. homer) bucket holds about 30 lbs.
My plaster varied in quality: some finer porcelain-like plaster would not admit bending and had to be smashed down.
I did not have the opportunity to remove floorboards above but when demolishing from the other side of a wall, yes it's easier to simply punch out the lath close to the joists, so that the line of nails squeaks out in unison.  I would estimate that it cuts the time in three.


Is there anything that forbids an Article 409 industrial control panel within a dwelling unit?

In my reading of Article 409 and the scope of UL 508 I don't see anything that actually requires or prohibits a control panel's installation by occupancy.
The word "Industrial" is a misnomer in my opinion since many commercial spaces (and probably more than a few residences) have devices that would fit the definition of an "Industrial Control Panel". (This may be a good place for a suggested change to the Code.)
Here is the definition from Article 409.2:

Industrial Control Panel. An assembly of two or more components consisting of one of the following:
(1) Power circuit components only, such as motor controllers, overload relays, fused disconnect switches, and circuit breakers
(2) Control circuit components only, such as pushbuttons, pilot lights, selector switches, timers, switches, control relays
(3) A combination of power and control circuit components
These components, with associated wiring and terminals, are mounted on or contained within an enclosure or mounted on a subpanel. The industrial control panel does not include the controlled equipment.

So, if I were to install a box with a timer and a relay to control a recirculation pump for my water heater I have just installed an "Industrial Control Panel".
The informational note in Article 409 that refers to UL 508 is not enforceable code so the panel does not have to be listed by UL or anyone else. The Code just suggests this as a source of information when considering the installation of such a panel. The industry practice of field building these panels with separate components is decades old and will continue for years to come.
If someone wants to take one of these prebuilt panels home and re-purpose it for some other task then there is nothing in the Code that prohibits that.


There are millions of available types of coat hooks, most of which will look a lot nicer than the carabiners you proposed.

The trouble with both of your suggestions is that they require two hands to get things off... one hand to unclip them and the other hand to remove the object. As such they will eventually drive you crazy.


Should I install a normal window or glass block?

Cost is also another major factor. Where I'm at you'll spend much more for glass block vs a double pane window, either picture or hung or sliding. Ease of installation is another. It is much much easier to install a window than to properly install glass block. You will need to ensure that you flash the exterior of the window or the glass block properly. Also, making the glass block and the window look correct from the outside is also much easier when using a window.

If it were me, and the aesthetic of the house absolutely didn't call for a glass block window I'd go with a standard window.


How do I wire my old 3/4hp 115-120v 50-60Hz HVAC motor to make an exhaust fan?

As it sounds like it's an electronically commutated motor (ECM).  My advice is to grab the control board, blower, and transformer out of the furnace. Then connect everything up as it was in the furnace.  You should then be able to use the R and G thermostat terminals, to turn the fan on and off.

You will have to bypass any limit circuits on the board, but it shouldn't matter since you're only using the blower.


What is the minimum height for garbage disposal drain above the drain stub

I don't think there's a code imposed minimum, but there's likely a physical limitation based on available fittings.

Between the disposal outlet and the drain, there must be a trap.  The bottom of the disposal outlet, must be above the trap weir (the point in the trap at which water starts to drain from the trap).

Therefore, in theory the bottom of the outlet has to be just slightly above the bottom of the drain.

In reality you'll have to use available fittings, so the minimum height would be based on what the fittings physically take up. Bare minimum, you'd exit the disposal with a 90° elbow, and connect directly to the top of the P-trap.  So whatever height is taken up by the elbow and P-trap, would be the minimum.

  WARNING: I have not searched through plumbing codes, so I could be wrong about a minimum height not existing.


Is a new refrigerator likely to trip a 20 amp AFCI/GFCI circuit?

I can tell you this has been an area of discussion among the electrical community for a few years. The problem being some appliances built before the insertion of AFCI requirement do not work well on those types of circuits.

Most equipment built after 2008 should be able to be installed on the new requirements and work well. You might check with the manufacturer and have them point out where in the warranty it shows that their appliance is capable to meet the newer codes.

Good luck.


How can I keep a router aligned correctly while running it along the narrow edge of a board?

I'm not sure if I really understand the question, but I think you are trying to shape the edge of a board by running the router against the narrow edge instead of the wide top/bottom. If this is the case, there are a couple of ways to keep the router steady and perpendicular to the edge.  The best way is to mount the router in a table and run your stock against the guide/fence.  If you don't have a router table, you can clamp some larger stock like a 2X4 to the board to make a wider edge for the router to slide on. This will help keep the router platform flat to the work.


Looks like moss growing in the window putty, probably from accumulated dust/dirt. Don’t think it’s dangerous but you’d need to remove the screen first and then scrape it off using something non-abrasive and blunt as you don’t want to damage the putty underneath (or the glass). A plastic paint scraper would probably do the trick.


How do I prepare an already painted wall for new paint?

No, in general, you don't need to prime existing paint, but there are exceptions.

To prepare for repainting:

wash the wall to remove any grease.
fill any holes and cracks with suitable filler, possibly using flexible filler for longer cracks. Unless you're an expert you won't get the filler flush with the existing wall so you'll need a filler you can sand.
sand and prime the filled areas - priming will seal the filler and keep it in place. If there are a lot of filled areas, you might want to sand and possibly prime the whole wall to avoid a patchy look.
repaint the wall with at least two coats of your new colour.

If the cracks are large you might want to check there's not a current movement problem. New houses will settle quite a bit when first built and there'll even be some movement in older homes. If there is current movement then you'll be seeing new cracks appear and older cracks getting longer and/or wider.

If you are painting over a dark colour with a light colour you might need more than 2 coats to stop the previous colour showing through. If that's the case then using a primer or basic white matt emulsion for the first coat (or two if it's really dark) is a more cost effective option than using the more expensive coloured paint for all the coats. Unfortunately you don't always find that out in time.

Paint in full daylight - especially for the final coat - so you can see where you've been and be methodical.


Sealing 2-ft square hole in cement beneath tub

Well, that's a code violation, at least under IPC.

1002.8 A recess provided for connection of the underground trap, such as one serving a bathtub in slab-type construction, shall have sides
and a bottom of corrosion-resistant, insect- and verminproof
construction.

Additionally, it sounds like the tub (with a 2 foot square hole under it) may not be "bedded" - which is OK if it's cast iron, and otherwise dubious - plastic and thin steel tubs should have material filling between the tub and the floor (plaster is traditional, some folks use sprayfoam these days) to prevent it from flexing (and eventually cracking) when loaded with water and a person's weight.


I doubt sealer from the outside will be any sort of long-term fix.  Either the joint has come apart or one of the pieces has split.  Either way you'll need to take it apart, replace any broken parts and reassemble the parts with proper solvent.


How do I determine if I need attic insulation to keep cool in summer?

What kind of insulation do you currently have in your attic? (Note: head on up there and check it out.) If it's batt insulation -- large units of fiberglass -- then that information will be printed on either the paper facing or the insulation itself. If it's loose fill insulation, which is far more common in attics, then you can usually figure out what the product is (pink, yellow, or white and very itchy = fiberglass, dirty grey = greenfiber, white and not very itchy = cellulose) and find it's value per inch on this handy table of R values.

For best performance, I'd go up to R-60. In a home built by your average builder in the past decade, R-30 meets code. Adding blown-in insulation, which you can do over fiberglass batts, is extremely cheap if you DIY ... although it's not a pleasant job to do. Rental of the machine from Home Depot or Lowe's is usually free with the purchase of a certain number of bales of insulation, and greenfiber especially is cheap. To bring my 1600 sq. ft. ranch up to R-60 would only cost me a couple hundred dollars in materials.

Do check at all ends of your attic. You might find that the areas close to the attic access are R-30 to meet code, but areas farther away might have less. I've known a few builders to be stingy with the insulation. One home I helped a friend with here in Houston had less than four inches of insulation in most of the attic.

One caution point is to make sure that in the process of adding insulation that any attic ventilation that you may have at the soffits is not blocked off. Soffit air is essential to the ventilation of your attic, if your home is designed that way. I would recommend installing Berger AccuVent baffles over every soffit vent before adding more insulation.

Last but not least, consider coating your roof with a reflective coating. You might need to get a contractor to do this, but it's simple and straightforward work. In the Inland Empire, nothing is more effective than keeping the solar rays from heating your house in the first place. Unfortunately, many find these roof coatings to be unsightly, so you might have to check with your HOA if you have one before applying anything.


Filling a Viessmann Vitodens 100W that has dropped to minimum pressure

Lift the lever on top of the pressure regulator briefly, that should allow water to flow in, and raise the pressure.
On most systems, the inlet valve is left closed except for maintenance - they should not normally leak, so they should not need constant refilling. Your inlet valve appears to be open as pictured.


Should I use a screw or anchor bolt to hold a metal box to the wall?

I'm old school: I still use lags and shields. They "never" pull out when installed properly.

(alliedboltinc.com)


Making a timber frame cupboard door using an MDF insert to hold its shape

Although MDF is more stable than solid wood, I won't claim that it will not swell enough with enough humidity to break the joints at the corners as solid wood will if there is no room for expansion, did that my self with a single panel in a 24" cabinet door 20 years ago never again...
The strength of the door needs to be in the joinery, not the panel. There really needs to be room for movement, maybe not as much as a wood panel, but something.
Dowels will suffice for the joinery, keep it to 2 per corner.
If you are going to cut the groove (dado) with a router or table saw, I presume you will stop the dado from the ends so it is not visible. It need not be exact where, as long as it is behind the joint and long enough to not foul the panel.

Take this a step farther and run the dados all the way through and a little deeper to 1/2 inch, and you have the basis for a simple joint that will be strong enough to hold without dowels. The trick is to use a smaller bit or blade than the panel get it roughly centered on the set up and run the stock (wood) the turn it the other way and pass it through again. With a little patience the dado will finish exactly in the center, and the proper width for the panel.

With that done, you can use the same bit to cut the ends of the stock for the top and bottom pieces (rails) they need to be 1 inch longer than the dimension between the horizontal pieces (stiles) so when the ends are reduced to fit in the dados it will give your finish size you need.

If the notion I pass by intrigues you, the next step is actually pretty simple too, but it depends in what tool you are using to machine your wood.

Edit 1/28/13

If you wish to use dowels, and don't mind seeing the holes at the outside corners of your doors, I would suggest this. Lay your corner out on a flat surface just as you would like it after it is assembled. Clamp it in place so it is square and near the edge of your support table, and drill in from the edge into the wood through one piece and into the other, gauging your depth to allow the dowel to be centered in both pieces. Use fluted dowels, the fluting allows excess glue to escape from the drilled hole. then plug the holes on the outside corners with an oak plug to blend in. You will need bar clamps for this, though a jig can be made to do the same with blocks screwed to a flat surface and a wedge of wood to draw it all tight. lay plastic under your joints or better yet, tape at the joint locations to keep the glue that will ooze out from gluing your frame to the workbench. Bar clamps will allow you to maneuver the frame after assembly to clean the glue on all sides, just be sure when you are done tidying up the frame is absolutely flat (no twist) and square, while the glue is drying. If it is a little out of square, a bar clamp diagonally across corner to corner will pull it back the little it may need. Have all this ready before you start, even make a dry run without dowels if possible, you will not want to try to find stuff while the glue is making its first "grab", it all needs to be at hand.

I say without dowels because if they get inserted without glue, they will still be more than very contrary to remove. Since the holes are all the way through, use metal drill bits that are smaller than your holes to line everything up temporarily.

I have used the turret style doweling jigs before, definitely not accurate. You can spend a lot of money on other doweling jigs, but the same money can be used on a matched router bit set too, the trick is, you need a router table and the router should have a 1/2" collet to hold up under the strain of cutting these joints.  Back at the doweling. The clamping of the material will insure you can control how the drill is going, a piece of tape, making a "flag" on the drill bit can act as a depth gauge. All this will make certain the faces will match on assembly and the holes are in plane with each other on each part. This alone is most critical. The slightest misalignment in the way the holes line up to each other will create a twist in the door frame and the door will not meet the cabinet box (carcass) on all corners, one corner on the door will set away from the carcass. In a matched set of doors, this can really look bad....


Option 2 is the cleanest solution to your problem, since "non-dimmable" LEDs hate dimmers and behave strangely with them, as many dimmers do not bypass themselves even at "full" brightness.
I have an LED compatible dimmer and dimmable LEDs where I replaced the dimmer with  a switch simply because the dimmer was causing an irritating audible noise in some of the LEDs that a switch did not. It also kept them from getting quite as bright as they could, and had an annoying 1/2 second delay when switched on.
I doubt you'll find a Halogen that will match the color of your LEDs, but if you can stand having one bulb look different it saves the cost of the electrician, especially if this is a rental.


This is a very strange issue.  Do you have any shutoff valves for your cold water?  If so turn your cold water valves off so that only hot water lines can reach your fixtures.  Now run the hot water.  If no water at all comes out of your faucets clearly there is an issue and this could be a clue.  If water does come out of your faucets it eventually has to be hot.


I don't see why not.  Hardiboard has even more texture than sheetrock for mud adhesion and at least as good of moisture absorption, so mud should adhere quite well.  Certainly the flex of Hardiboard is less than sheetrock, so there should be no issues with flexing causing cracking of dried mud.

But why would you want to?  Hardiboard is at least three times the cost of sheetrock and harder to install.


Can removal of adhesive tape damage a tile?

If you are talking about glazed ceramic tiles, then the probability of damage is very very low. (There's still the possibility of scratches, if you attack the tile with a blade, but that's not the fault of the tape.)

The only exception I can think of is a small category of rustic tiles that have a very poorly adhered glaze or no glaze at all, but I doubt those would be on the wall.


This is a code violation. But there are real specific reasons (i.e., not just to have all switches look the same). A specific why this is bad:
With the neutral switched instead of hot, if you turn off the switch to change a light bulb, you still have a hot socket. Since ground is present (neutral is effectively ignored since that has been switched off), you could still have a complete circuit (e.g., if a bulb breaks) where normally you would not expect it. Actual maintenance work (beyond changing a light bulb) should be done with the breaker off, but most people would not bother just to change a light bulb.
And even if you remember this, the next owner might not know about this little "quirk". Which could be a shocking experience.


Light switch wiring - one switch controls another light and makes original switch redundant

It looks like he got the switched load from lamp A tied into both lamps. The hot from switch A going to switch B and load  switch B  going to lamp B.  Now when switch B is closed, both lamps will be on, wired in series, and switch A does nothing. If switch B is off, then A is normal.


Will an ungrounded light fixture on a GFCI circuit cause the GFCI to trip?

This is a common misconception when using Ground Fault Circuit Interruption (GFCI) devices.  GFCI devices do not require an equipment ground to function, they detect unbalanced loads within the circuit using the "hot" (ungrounded conductor) and the "neutral" (grounded conductor).

In a properly functioning circuit, the current on the ungrounded conductor and grounded conductor should be equal.

You can test this yourself, using a clamp on ammeter. If you clamp the meter around both the hot and neutral wires, you should read 0 Amps (If you read anything other than 0, you have current leakage). This works because the current flowing through the wires creates an electromagnetic field, and since the current is flowing in opposite directions the fields cancel each other out.

A GFCI device takes advantage of these principles, and is able to detect current leakage by comparing the current on the ungrounded and grounded conductors.


It may be a phantom voltage, that you are seeing, many disposal units have a Allen key you can turn to make sure things are free if it turns + the reset on the disposal motor is set and the breaker is reset if it still won't start check the wiring at the switch. Disposals pull a large starting current and if back stabs were used it may have burned one of the stabs if you pull the switch out and it starts working get a new switch before it burns the wire off.


Repairing fiberglass garage door panel with large hole

Find a good section of door with the same pattern.
Spray release chemical on that section of door.  Build a box/frame with a back around this area.
Fill the box with expanding foam, so it extrudes against the door area.
Release the foam and box from the door.   You now have a mold.
Paint the mold with just enough epoxy to give it a hard shell (harder than normal foam).
Spray the foam and box with release agent.
Move this foam and box over to the damaged area and  attach it to the door.
Now you have a mold to do a fiberglas layup in the normal way.


New construction, who is responsible for water drainage?

Any contractor worth his salt would make sure that the site was graded to always slope away from the house. It’s part of keeping the house dry and I don’t think this aspect of the work falls under the category of landscaping. He should be responsible for correcting the problem.


One approach is to pry up one of the tottering edges up slightly and inject exterior construction adhesive (some are rated for stone/masonry) a few inches in and staying well away from the outside edges. Then lower the stone and let it dry undisturbed.

When dry, this creates an adhesive wedge. Its sticking power is less important than its shape.

Obviously, if rearrangement or removal of the stone is someday needed, this makes it a bit more difficult, but not impossible.

However, if you think the problem is progressing, you need to address the underlying erosion problem before taking this step.


HE gas furnace replaced bad inducer but no ignition

Pressure switch on the inducer has to be satisfied before it will light the ignitor. If it can never verify that the inducer is blowing, it might run it forever and burn it out.


I have hung several things on tile and brick; I always go through the grout/mortar. It has usually been pretty easy to drill with a masonry bit.


Pillar in the ground that can support a hammock

Any freestanding hammock post without lateral binding will eventually work loose.

The standard configuration is to use a 6x6x9 wooden beam and sink it three feet into the ground with a footing made from an 80-pound bag of cement. Where I live the only place to get a wooden beam of that size is a sawmill over 50 miles away.

Alternatively you could use a 3" Lally column as a substitute for the beam.


How can I repair this damaged air compressor?

I'm not sure what the rod might have been, the inside of an air tank is pretty simple.

Replacement drain valves are available in a variety of configurations, and generally they thread into a nut welded into the tank. It's then just a matter of finding an appropriate replacement valve (relatively easy) and removing the old one (probably much harder).

To help get the frozen valve out, you could (should) try penetrating oil to free what are almost certainly frozen threads, but you may need to step up to using a torch to apply heat to help break the part loose.


Minimum Size of First 90 Degree Fitting Downstream of a Sink

Bend radius, not cross-sectional radius. Pipes are never sized by radius, but by inner diameter.

They want you to use elbows other than those with the sharp 90-degree corner at the inside, such as this one:

Instead, use standard elbows (or longer):


What kind of fastener should I use to hang things on cabinets?

I would drill your holes for the rack through your cabinet, then drill some counter-sink holes on the inside of your cabinet so your bolts are flush with the inside.  You can find some flat headed bolts to use for this at any hardware store.  Have the head of your bolt on the inside of the cabinet and secure it with a lock washer and nut.  You should not need anything too thick as far as bolts go for this.  You idea on how to mount them will be fine.  The bad thing is that now you will have holes in your cabinet, so if you do not like it or if you want to remove it, you have just ruined your cabinets in a sense.


Blind installed in a metal/aluminum frame that is tilting forward - how to fix?

Notes here:

front of the brackets for these blinds started bending down.   You know this.
this is either because you were unduly harsh on these - pulling on the blind cords to hard and/or yanking the whole mechanism
this may also be caused because of the weight of the blinds.   Cheap blinds weigh more, couple that with some yanking and the default brackets might not work.
was the top of the blinds caulked to the top of the window trim?   That is really weird!
Most blinds like this come with three attachment brackets.   There is usually one "C" bracket and two box brackets.   The box brackets really hold the weight and are of a thicker gauge metal and the fact that it is a box it is really almost impossible for the bracket itself to warp.   With the box brackets if there is too much yanking or pulling on the blinds the bracket will pull the screw out of the trim, not warp.
All I see on your blinds are the "C" brackets.   While these look nicer, this is the reason why the blinds eventually failed.

What to do?

Buy better and more C brackets, install them, and go easier on the blinds.
Buy different blinds that are lighter
Install box brackets for each blind set.


Tips on making classic brick and plywood shelves

Brick-and-board shelves are more of a makeshift, anything-goes project. However:

Securing the shelving to the wall is a good idea, especially in an earthquake-prone area.

Putting the bricks all in vertical lines will stop the boards from bending as much.

Cinder blocks are a good choice, as the stacks for bricks can topple.


Should I replace a receptacle with a small burn mark?

I would definitely replace it if you feel comfortable doing so. A small burn mark on the surface could be a big burn or melted spot on the back. If it was quick-wired (wires just stuck in the holes in the back) then it is quite likely the contact is compromised or even burnt.


How to fix a halogen light with missing transformer plug

You have probably replaced a regulated power supply (this creates a constant 12V) with an unregulated one (which supplies 12V on average, but the actual level fluctuates). Or the power rating of the new transformer is too low.

You need a regulated power supply that can supply not just the right voltage (V) but also enough power (W).


Extend AC hose and install an additional fan

Since there is not any option to vent without extending the length of the vent hose I would try using a variable speed duct booster fan.

You want to be sure you are not restricting the flow of warm air at all.
To help ensure this check the temperature of the vented air on a hot day before adding any length.
Then add your extension and booster.

Adjust the speed until the temperature of the exiting air is  the same or a bit cooler than original temp.
Running faster speed than this may cause premature failure of the integrated fan so be careful.

If your unit runs continuously this set up may be fine. If it cycles on and off you will need to think about how to get the booster fan to cycle with it.


How can I adapt old thick wiring entering my 30 yr old furnace to fit into the clip on slot on modern day circuit breaker switch?

This is what unit mount breakers are for

Most modern circuit breakers are designed to attach to a panelboard's busbars, hence the clip.  However, you don't want that since these breakers are providing subdivided protection per NEC 422.11(F)(1), with fat branch circuit wiring coming in and no busbars in sight within the enclosure:

  (F) Electric Heating Appliances Employing Resistance-Type Heating Elements Rated More Than 48 Amperes.

  (1) Electric Heating Appliances. Electric heating appliances employing resistance-type heating elements rated
  more than 48 amperes, other than household appliances
  with surface heating elements covered by 422.11 (B), and
  commercial-type heating appliances covered by 422.11 (D),
  shall have the heating elements subdivided. Each subdivided load shall not exceed 48 amperes and shall be protected at not more than 60 amperes.

  These supplementary overcurrent protective devices
  shall be (1) factory-installed within or on the heater enclosure or provided as a separate assembly by the heater
  manufacturer; (2) accessible; and (3) suitable for branch-
  circuit protection.

  The main conductors supplying these overcurrent protective devices shall be considered branch-circuit conductors.

What you need instead is a unit mount breaker, sometimes called a cable-in/cable-out breaker -- these circuit breakers are designed to mount directly into a box, usually through a mounting scheme such as the ubiquitous DIN rail or a set of panel mounting clips, instead of to a panelboard busbar, and have wire lug terminals on both sides of the breaker.  An example is depicted below.

However, you need a breaker listed to UL 489 for this application.  Look for something from the Square D QOU or Eaton QC lines, for instance, although several other UL 489 listed DIN rail breaker lines are available as well -- you'll need to order them in from an electrical supply house though, along with the appropriate mounting hardware if you are changing breaker types (a like-for-like replacement should fit the existing mounts though).


Can you buy an inexpensive rectifier/dc power source for cheap flickering LED Christmas lights?

No-one will sell a commercial product like that.  It's dangerous.

DC is nasty business. Seriously, go to mouser and pick any random power relay.  Look at its specs for AC, and then look at its specs for DC.  Whoa!

DC is de-rated by a large factor because when a DC arc strikes, it doesn't self-extinguish because the voltage never goes to zero.  An arc, once struck, doesn't feel pity or remorse or fear and it absolutely will not stop until it's burned up so much conductor it can no longer bridge the gap, and if that sets your house on fire, too bad.  If you've seen old "snap switches" which have a considerable action to them, they are preloading and releasing a "snap" action which creates a large gap when the contact breaks. Larger switches and contactors have designed-in "blowouts" which bend the arc into an arc-chute.  The point is, interrupting DC takes a lot more design and engineering than interrupting AC. And a short is a much bigger deal.

Now when you rectify AC into DC, you get a bouncing-ball waveform.

Supposedly that should self-extinguish same as full-wave AC, but capacitance will prevent it from getting all the way to zero.  If you add a smoothing capacitor, then it has no chance to extinguish. You wouldn't want to do that anyway, because that would raise the average (RMS) voltage, which could overcurrent the LEDs.  LEDs are non-linear, so a small voltage increase makes a big current increase.  The curves are in LED spec sheets.

Of course if you could constant-current regulate each LED chain, it's perfectly wired for that.


How can I replace or repair termite damaged 2 x 6 tongue and groove sub flooring without altering the 1 x 6 hardwood floor on top of it?

i dont think it can be done.  the hardwood has to be nailed to the subfloor, and removing the subfloor from below would make it release the flooring.  on top of that, the stiffness of the floor is partially due to the connection between joists that the subfloor creates.  if you somehow removed the subfloor, putting it back would require small enough pieces to fit between the joists, which would substantially weaken the floor as the joists would not be connected any longer by the subfloor.

you could certainly reinforce it by adding sections of spruce plywood, and gluing them up against the subfloor from below.  use a good quality construction adhesive and then push it up from below with solid lumber blocking screwed laterally into the joists


Connecting a washing machine and tumble dryer to the same sink drain

As indicated by isherwood your air gaps are mandatory. This is to prevent return of waste water into the appliance. In your setup you have an air gap but only one and also only one trap. It is better to construct separate air gaps and traps for each unit and combine both after the traps into the sink.

Construction can be straight forward:
Take 2 traps and combine the outlets. Place some 10 to 12" pipe on top of the trap and put the appliance hose directly inside without a seal. The gap is then formed by means of the space between the hose and the pipe.


Can Laminate flooring be installed on Steps?

Nope.  That's for the top of the staircase where the floor runs out.
Stairs need to be extremely stable.  Any movement at all can lead to disaster.

Your best bets are to refinish (tough) or carpet.


How can I reset my Baxi Combi Duo-Tec HE boiler after a gas supply fault error?

As it turns out, the switch has actually seized, all that was required was the switch to be replaced at the cost of £8.00.


What do I do with the neutral and ground when wiring a transfer switch?

There can only be one point in the system where neutral and ground wires are joined, and this is usually in the main panel.  Therefore, you must lift the bond from the generator, or disconnect the ground wire from the generator to the transfer switch.

If you lift the bond on the generator, you can run both ground and an insulated neutral back to the transfer switch.  You will also run ground and insulated neutral from the main panel to the transfer switch, and ground and insulated neutral to the subpanel from the transfer switch.  Note that neither neutral nor ground are switched in the transfer switch.  The generator can optionally be grounded to a rod.

If you cannot lift the bond, disconnect the ground wire to the transfer switch at the generator (or don't run a ground wire at all).  The subpanel will still be grounded from the unswitched ground wire from the main panel.  The generator cannot be grounded to a rod because this would tie the neutral to ground in a second location through the bond.


My tub spout would make an awful squeal when the shower stopper was pulled up (air in the line trying to escape the poorly seating valve). It would change pitch and stop sometimes if I jiggled the lever right. Find the offending unit and ask to replace their tub spout. Tell them why and they will almost certainly agree to it. A change in pressure may get it to stop momentarily. Take a shot in the dark and cycle your faucet valves on and off to attempt re-seating the seal of your neighbors' tub spout stopper valve, when you hear it howling. Or be proactive, finding out whose it is and whose job it is to fix it.


How can I accurately measure the angle of my walls?

You could maybe use the phone App tool but you would still have to translate the angle reading into lines on the pieces of wood. A far better tool was invented long long ago that direct measures the angle and then allows for direct transfer to the wood. It is called a carpenters bevel or a bevel square.


Can an interior wall be built over an existing heat/air vent allowing air in both rooms

You want to make a closet in your master bedroom , to me that is a non load bearing wall(s). This won’t be hard you just cut the bottom plate where the vent hits and move it up a foot or so. Then a wall register on each side provides the same amount of heat or possible slightly more flow because of less restriction.
I put vents in large closets to help keep air movement and reduce the chance of mold and mildew in the closet. You don’t have to duct up to the vents as these are interior walls but I would seal that short stud bay at the bottom and top to keep the air directed in the bedroom closet area.


How do go from a single light/fan bathroom switch to a double paddle with no ground or hot wire?

You need to add a three wire out to fan.  Then the black screw gets line in from the panel,the other wire is load out to ,fan light. And only works both together.  3 wire lets them be separate .  White is neutral, on the other screws, black to light red to fan. Need 3 wire to do this. Or leave in a single switch and both run like they did before.