How to properly level / build a fence for in my back yard?

Level Each Section
With a gradual slope - i.e., no more than a couple of inches per section - I would make each section level but with some offset an inch or two as needed so that each section is approximately the same distance from the ground.


Integrating into knob-and-tube wiring: okay to borrow a ground

Not to be snarky, but, if you mess up plumbing you get wet and stinky. If you mess up electricity, you get burned or dead. Is it really worth the risk?

As you touch the old unsafe and code fail stuff, replace it. No need to do everything at once.


No, the loose blue wire is a 208V tap. The C wire comes off the other side of the transformer. I highlighted the blue 208V wire you referenced, plus the C wire (yellow) in your schematic:

It's one of the two yellow wires, which go to another area (not pictured)

It actually doesn't make a difference which yellow wire is which (AC voltage, so no polarity) -- one goes to the "R" terminal (power, usually red) and the other is "C". From the schematic, you might have only 4 terminals for the thermostat, but there at least does appear to be a hookup for the C wire.


How to tell if carpet is destroyed after a flood?

The "usual" flood involves dirty water, either exterior or sewage. There, I'd agree that the carpet is toast.

Where you have basically rinsed the carpet for 16 hours with clean potable water, I think you have an excellent chance of drying it out and being fine. If the outside faucet pipe froze, you are presumably heating, which means the air inside will be dry, on the whole. Add in a lot of fans and dehumidifiers, and it might well dry out fine. You are describing a one-time event, not a leaky basement that's wet all the time.

On the third hand, carpet is relatively inexpensive. And on the fourth hand, will insurance be involved? They might have an opinion, if so.


Confirming if the toilet drain is properly installed

Two issues come to mind here.

First, I think the way your toilet is flushing is not related to the way your waste lines are plumbed.  Unless you have another toilet of the same make and model that flushes differently, I think that's just how yours works.  Even if your venting was nonexistent, your 4" waste line should have plenty of air space to let it work ok.

Second, I do think you have a problem with your waste line.  I'm assuming the close vertical pipe is the drop from the WC?  If so, the next fitting down, the Tee, needs to have a sweep.  I found this answer elsewhere in stackexchange.


12 hours over night will be sufficient to get it set most of the way. You could Cut a piece of 3/4 plywood to fit the space ( one piece is better but two would work ) and lay it down over the tiles for the morning traffic.

The wood will spread/distribute the weight out over a broader area and should help to avoid a corner of the tile from being push down by concentrated weight.

Just an idea.


Would be good to see the specific model.  But a check valve may be the simplest solution.
From a random Maytag manual:

For standpipe installation above 48"(121.2 cm), install a check valve to prevent water from flowing back into washer. Available from local hardware store.


Bathroom Ceiling Outlet installation from Attic

All receptacles in a bathroom are required to be GFCI protected. As far as the location away from wall there is no requirement on that it could be touching the I have put them in a corner touching or almost touching 2 walls.


How can I add "smart" functionality to an old thermostat?

Devices exist which are basically heaters with timers, which can be mounted under a traditional thermostat to bias it toward turning the heat off sooner. By juggling the two settings, this can be made to work somewhat like a setback thermostat.

Mostly obsolete, since not very efficient, but useful in cases where the owner forbids installing a real smart thermostat.


Does a bad screw require changing the tap itself?

The reason why the plumber says this is that the cost to replace just the screw (for him) would be greater than the cost to replace the whole handle and valve assembly. This is because he can replace the whole handle assembly in 10 minutes, but it would probably take him at least 30-45 minutes minimum to find and install a perfect replacement screw.

If you value your time less, feel free to look for a replacement screw. Note that the screw will have to be a certain length and thread pitch and diameter etc.

If the internals of the valve are cleaned up, resurfaced and washers replaced, the valve should operate correctly. The screw is for the handle and is not part of the valve.

Getting that screw out, by the way, will be annoying. The way to do it (not involving high temperature processes) is to use a sleeve bushing around the screw, a drill bushing inside the sleeve, then drill a hole for a screw extractor.


No code issues at all.   In fact using 2x3s for interior non-load bearing walls is a staple of "cheaper" construction.
However yours being next to a cinderblock wall negates the cheap aspect (cheap because when you are in a house with 2x3 walls, they often seem "shaky").   I would just make sure the 2x3s are of high quality because when you start getting into smaller dimensional lumber you can get some warpage that makes getting a straight wall up harder.
If that inch is helping you that much you have good reasoning to use 2x3 and given good/straight lumber you wouldn't notice a difference.  I will also say if hanging cabinets it is a good idea to run many cross braces in the framing to help support.   If you run two lines with the board flipped at strategic locations, installing cabinets a breeze.


Is there anything wrong with using a PC power cord for a miter saw?

As long as you don't splice it, but install it by hooking it up internally consistent with the way the original one was (including noting the conductor type, aluminum vs copper), then you will be fine.


How urgently should this joist be looked at by a pro?

I would get a General contractor, if you can’t drive a couple of nails or screws.
As far as urgent , probably not at all urgent.
I would want some joists hangers on the ones hanging down and only toe nailed.
the long horizontal split no worries there if you want sister if not every house has those.
The last one with the knot and split maybe sister but it probably has been like this for decades.
Do you need someone else to do the work NO.
Every old home I have worked on has very similar things that because of the quality of the wood is not a problem.
Horizontal splits I don’t even think about if the split runs at an angle in the center of a joist sure sister it. A simple car Jack to put a bit of upwards pressure then nail or screw the sistered board to the split one, if you can extend the new board ~3’ past the break out point.  Don’t push up too hard or you can create other problems.
These are easy repairs and based on taking down the old plaster you probably have the skills necessary to reenforce your areas of concern.


How do I replace Studs and bottom plate if the studs have been cut half way up the wall and removed

I'd be inclined to put down a bottom plate and sister the existing studs to it. Now mind you, I'm not a fourth generation carpenter so maybe some of them will chime in.


CSA Approval for use in New York State sufficient?

A CSA certified device will have the CSA mark on it (obviously).
But below the stylized CSA you may see some other letters, like this one has:

If your device is certified for use in the USA, then it will have the US in the lower-right corner or directly below.
No letters below means that it is only certified for use in Canada.
See CSA Marks & Labels for North America for further detail.


What material was used for the bedding of my patio?

It's hard to tell from the picture but it may be -1/4" crushed gravel that was used as bedding. We used that quite often in place of a mortar type sand because it didn't compress as much but still allowed easy grading and workability.


The wall seems to have 'full dimension' studs and the markings of old lath and plaster.  I don't see plywood sheathing on the exterior walls.  All in all I'm guessing that your house was built prior to WWII and is either 'post and beam' or 'balloon frame'  construction, both of which are radically different in terms of structure and loads from modern techniques.

Here are wikipedia links for those techniques:

post and beam construction
balloon framing
platform framing ("typical" modern wood framing)

Can you post some photos that show the original framing for the original windows? I'm guessing the original construction did not include headers above the windows. Also I do not see any indication that jack studs were used in the original construction.

If your house is post and beam, then I don't think there are any significant structural issues.

If your house is balloon framed, this is how I would 'fix' it, with the jacks (red) and cripples (black) going through the floor to bear on what ever the existing old studs bear upon. The header (green) consists of two 2x10s sandwiching two rippings of 1/2" plywood (or whatever).

Based on the current state, achieving this is rather quick and simple.  It does not require starting from scratch: the window and existing new 2xs do not need to be removed.


Basic power tool set for Home repair and simple projects

Shopping sprees are counterproductive

There isn't a Great Depression coming up, and this isn't an expedition to Mars.

Buy what you need... when you need it.

As far as circular saws, I can't remember the last time I used one or even missed having one.  I think their danger:utility ratio is pretty poor.  What I've found indispensable, however, is a built-in radial arm saw with lead-in and exit tables. Wow, what a useful tool!

I have a sawzall I used once.

Forget the wheeled dolly toolbox.  Tool boxes are personal choices. Get them a Home Depot gift card instead and let them figure out what works for them.

The one thing I really do recommend, because they will never find it on their own, is a speed wrench + bit holder in lieu of a cordless drill to drive screws.  It's much more efficient than you'd think, and does several things for you.

exceptionally good control. No more blown through or buried screws.
you can leave the drill bit in the drill
which makes pre-drilling holes more sensible, giving better work and fewer splits
does not steal battery power from the drilling task


How are equipment grounding conductors counted for determining conduit or junction box fill?

Please see this answer, for more detail. Basically if you have equipment grounding conductors enter the box, you add 1 fill unit.
Example Breakdown
In the example you've provided you have 12 if it's a box without internal clamps, and 13 if it has internal clamps.

Current Carrying Conductors
    Ungrounded (hot)            4
    Grounded (neutral)          3
    ----------------------------------
                                    7

Equipment Grounding Conductor       1

Clamps  (maybe)                     1

Devices                         2
                               x2
    ----------------------------------
                                    4
    ----------------------------------
Total                               13


Can I run water lines through the attic?

The simple solution is to dig up the insulation, run the pipes along the top of the ceiling drywall (ie, just above the ceiling, rather than just below it), and put the insulation back on top of them, which puts them on the warm side of the insulation, "inside the home (thermally speaking)." Also to be a lot more careful when hiring "plumbers."

Otherwise, framing in a pipe chase below the ceiling would work, and might actually be easier in some cases (where crossing rather than running along ceiling joists.)


Hang indoor swing chair BETWEEN two ceiling joists

You've hit on three viable options. I'll make some notes on each so you can decide.

Run a cleat across the gap

Requires perhaps the most damage to the finished ceiling, but simple and fairly easy
A 2x6 laid flat against the ceiling will carry the weight just fine (avoid boards with large knots)
Four 3-1/2" by 3/8" lag screws, properly piloted into the ceiling joists, will carry well.

Run backing in the attic

Least visible option, but most challenging due to attic work
Use a 2x4 oriented vertically (like the ceiling joists) between the trusses
Anchor with substantial lag screws and also consider laying another board across the top of everything, connecting that with lags or 3" construction screws
Locate the eye bolt carefully so you're anchored well

Span between two eye bolts with chain

Probably the simplest and quickest option, but most likely to cause issued in your drywall such as nearby screw pops since it puts the most lateral stress on the ceiling joists
To reduce lateral force which could bend or move your eye bolts (potentially shifting the ceiling joists), run your chain or cable down far enough so you have an angle less than 45 degrees to vertical, and consider using a rigid bar between the chains near the ceiling to direct force to vertical
Hang on both chains with an S-hook or proper carabiner (not a novelty item)


What is the maximum number of load bearing studs in a row that can be notched?

There is no specific limit on the number of sequential studs, as the 7/8" limit is intended to reduce the potential stresses, however, given the choice, I would rather drill than notch:
2308.9.11 Bored holes. A hole not greater in diameter than 40 percent of the stud width is permitted to be bored in any wood stud. [...]
and
In no case shall the edge of the bored hole be nearer than 5/8 inch (15.9 mm) to the edge of the stud.
So 40% of 3.5 in gives you ~1 3/8" to use, often much more than you need for supply lines.
My concern though, is that you're thinking of notching for a waste line, and notching 7/8" to add a 1 1/2 or 2" drain line is... I'll just say that I'm with @JohnSmith in that I wouldn't bother, but then I don't know your specific situation.


How can I add a button for a garage door opener?

Yes, You can simply connect an additional button between the PB and GND connections. Just make sure that all of the buttons used are momentary types that spring back to an open condition when not in use.


Is the material encasing a steam heating system asbestos? How can i determine this?

With an asbestos test kit or a professional asbestos testing firm. If you're buying the house, you may be able to get the sellers to pay for this.


Can I add an occupancy sensor to a 3-way circuit?

DMoore is spot on about using the 3-way occupancy sensor, but off a bit about needing to replace both switches with occupancy sensors.  The occupancy sensor installation instructions should show how to connect the device to a 3-way circuit, without replacing the other switch.

Here is an example wiring diagram from the Lutron Maestro Occupancy Sensing Switch installation guide.

However, occupancy sensors only work if they can see you. So if the switch locations are not within line of sight, you may have to replace both switches depending on your operating preferences.


Assuming you didn't overtighten or cross thread, did you put the tape on the right way? The correct way to use teflon tape is to wrap it with (i.e. in the same direction as) the threads so that when you tighten the fitting the threads don't loosen the tape and cause it to be pushed out of the way. (I suspect that this is probably what happened in your case.) Regarding the number of wraps, a couple should suffice.

Once you screw the fitting together, you should not see and tape bunched up at the edge of the female fitting (which you won't if you wrap the tape the right direction).


Alternative: Fiber optic sky light. You don't need to put the solar panel on the roof- it can be set anywhere with good light (the side of the house and roof are commonly used though). The optic cables could be routed anywhere (like under the house, through the wall, etc.).

I'm not really making a recommendation, but Huvco and Wasco/Parans came up first when I googled "fiber optic sky light".


Do flexible braided hoses have a shelf life if stored unused?

Any rubber or synthetic will degrade with age it depends upon the composition at which rate that will happen. If they are old 10 years or so I would just buy new ones the risk from damage is to great.


Reattach carpet to one wall - looking for advice/suggestions

No that quote is too high, especially the 300 side of the quote. You are paying a company, not the installer who gets less than half of that. You should seek out an installer and be able to get that done for ~100, which is reasonable.

Doing the job yourself will be a little more difficult than you might want to get involved in.

First you need to get the knee kicker, then tack strip, some reinforcement nails, something for the room transition (metal, wood, etc.).

Second you are dealing with Berber carpet, which will be difficult to stretch and cut. The berber carpet is stiffer than regular cut pile carpet, so any bubbles/wrinkles will be harder to kick out. The continuous fiber strand will be prone to snagging if not fully cut, pulling across the room and leaving a gap. Plus the chance of leaving cut marks on newly finished baseboards.

But this can be done if competent enough.

When cutting the tack strip, you can use tin snips. It won't damage them for the few cuts you will make. Lay the tack strip against the wall with a distance of 1/2" (approximately the width of your finger). Make sure the tacks are leaning towards the wall, so as to catch the backing of the carpet when stretched over it. The gap you left is where the carpet will be tuck into when trimmed.

If nailing into concrete,  make sure you use smooth deliberate hammer strokes so as not to have nail deflection. If nailing into anything harder than concrete,  use a 5/16" masonary drill bit and use 3/4"stub nails to secure the tack strip down. Use reinforcement nails where ever necessary.

Before laying the carpet down,  make sure the padding is up to but not on the tack strip. Trim if necessary.

When stretching the carpet with the knee kicker,  try not to drag your knee or you'll end up with a really sore knee/carpet burn. After each knee kick you will rub/press the carpet onto the tack strip, using a hammer that is clean, to secure it. Keeping the knee kicker perpendicular to the wall, when kicking.

For trimming the carpet,  you will want to have a very sharp knife and take your time. For this small of a job you can use a utility knife. Fold the carpet back from the wall without pulling the carpet off the tack strip. Without pressing down too hard on your knife, make a cut a 1/2“ from the fold along the wall. If you have trouble cutting the Berber strands, you can cut them with a scissor. When done with a section, tuck it in with a spackling/paint tool (a 3-n-1 will work as well).

Just take your time if you do this on your own.


GFCI outlet trips overnight. The breaker indicates there is ground fault. Outlet tester shows no lights (no power?)

The outlet tester shows no lights, because there is no power until you reset the GFCI.
A GFCI can trip because there is a ground fault or because the GFCI itself is bad. Most of the time, it is an actual ground fault - a life-safety condition. Consider the different possibilities:

The disposal has a fault which only appears after an extended period of time. For example, there could be a very small leak of water into the motor. It could be that it is a very slow leak, so it does not show up on immediate use, but does trip the GFCI after several hours of drip-drip-drip. Then it trips in the middle of the night. By the time you get to it, the water has dried out and you are able to reset the GFCI and use the disposal again for a while. Key question: How old is the disposal? Any signs of cracks in the case? Any water under the sink, anywhere?

A downstream device has a fault. A GFCI can be connected to multiple devices (receptacles or hard-wired) using the LOAD connections. This is unlikely for a disposal receptacle, but it is possible. If that is the case, or if you have something else plugged in to the 2nd receptacle (assuming it is a typical dual receptacle) then a different device could be causing the problem.

Water dripping into the receptacle. A long-shot, but if there is water leaking under the sink and slowly making its way down the cord to the receptacle, that could cause a GFCI trip. If that's the case, you want to to trace back to the disposal, drain and sink to find where water is leaking.

Based on discussion in comments, it is not clear whether the disposal is causing the trip or something else. Suggestion: Next time you use the disposal for the "usual" amount, assuming you have no GFCI trip at the time, unplug it. Then the next morning see if you find:

GFCI tripped before you plug in the disposal. This would indicate a problem with something else on the circuit or with the GFCI breaker itself.
GFCI trips immediately upon plugging in the disposal or after plugging in as soon as you try turning the disposal on. This would indicate a problem in the disposal itself.
Disposal runs fine for a while after plugging it in. This would indicate some sort of leakage inside the disposal causing the "usual" trip and drying out before you plug it in (or on a regular day, drying out before you reset the GFCI).


Blue-collar / Foreman / Project Management Vernacular

I often make checklists for jobs, especially if they are a distance from my shop, and assures my helpers get all the stuff I want on the site.  Rather than one word headings, I usually two or three checklists like 1) Tools and equipment. This includes the obvious tools and things like ladders, extension cords, compressor hoses and the like. 2) Material list. this has all the components that will be needed and purchased by the customer. Lumber, trim, paint, light fixtures, insulation etc. 3) Shop stock. this list contains all the consumable items that are not billed individually. This includes stick nails, small electrical supplies, fasteners, tapes, caulking etc. I build these lists when I am estimating the job, then  keep these lists in a customer file, so it is easy to bill out materials etc when the job is done.


What is this black stuff that appeared on my drain after cleaning with a bleach-based cleaner and how do I clean it?

This may not be mold but the chrome plating having pin holes and the cleaners / moisture eating the base metals have created a new problem. I would try to dry the area and use a quality fingernail polish to seal them. If this works it may last for quite a while but with plated fixtures once moisture gets under the plateing it is hard to stop the damage.


Tighten the spring on the idler pulley.

Or the old belt broke because the bearings are shot (not good, in my experience that's new washer time).

Actually on a dryer, it's worth it/much easier to replace the bearings and glides. If the drum doesn't spin freely without the belt, you may want to go ahead and a take a look at the drum glides and see if they're worn or missing, before you burn up this belt too.


Help with meaning of symbols on switch for electrical blinds

It looks like "L" is common, and the other two are momentary-closed when you push the up or down button. There's nothing more than that; the circle doesn't mean anything.

Each terminal provides two holes to attach wires, if you're wondering.


Are there frameless sliding glass shower doors that don't require any channel attached to the curb?

Yes, they make such doors.  (e.g. https://www.framelessshowerdoors.com/sliding-doors/)  But they are only useful if the doors are far enough away from the water spray so that very little water gets under them.


How can I prevent racking on a large free standing wardrobe?

Consider drilling a series of 4" holes instead.  You'll retain most of the shear strength, and get some ventilation.  Diagonal braces are more effective but more work.  T brackets at each rear junction are a possibility, but probably not as strong as the backboard with 4" holes.


It's not going to be that simple. Unless you support the pipe above where you want to put the rubber boot, it's likely going to come crashing down. Depending on what's above, you might be better off cutting the cast iron where you want, and replacing everything above the cut with PVC/ABS. Without knowing more about what's above this, and what else ties into that pipe, there's no way to provide an accurate answer.

I will say that the rubber boot, is likely not the best course of action.

Remove the galvanized pipe.
Use a chain break to cut the cast iron a bit lower than you planned.
Install a Fernco coupling to transition from cast iron to PVC/ABS.
Finish the plumbing in PVC/ABS, including the tee for the standpipe trap arm.
Properly support PVC/ABS plumbing.

Make sure the trap arm for the standpipe is not too long for the size of pipe you're using (2" pipe = 8' max. developed length trap arm 1.5" = 6'). Also make sure the drain has the proper slope.


How to secure a top heavy tall iron headboard

That frame is built of heavy-gauge steel and will likely hold up your headboard without damage. The fact that your headboard is vertical means that there's relatively little stress on the assembly.

However, there may be play in the rivets and other connections which leave the headboard a bit wobbly when the bed is used. To completely remedy that you'd probably need to add a diagonal brace near the floor, between the horizontal frame rail and the headboard leg, creating a larger gusset. You could do so with a simple double-bent 1/8" steel or 1/4" aluminum bar stock attached with carriage bolts. Something like so:

            | |
___________/| |
___________ | |
 --        \| |
    \       | |
      \     | |
        \   | |
          \ | |
           || |
            | |


I have power at all plugins but when I plug something in it doesn't work an voltages testers goes to 0

This is a common failure.
First check your breaker panel for a tripped breaker
To reset it turn it off then back on at the breaker itself.
This cycle resets the breaker.
If the same results:
What you are seeing is phantom voltage.
This is voltage created when 2 lines run parallel snd a voltage is induced on the line OR there is a weak connection at a wire possibly just a bit of carbon creating a path of sorts that provides a voltage but no current.
The most common source of a single circuit having this problem is from backstabbed connections usually at receptacles. A backstab is the push in connection. These have a small contact area and can overheat, arc and now a bad connection.
Working from the breaker panel find the last working receptacle or first non working receptacle, the problem will be in one of these 2 locations.
What you are looking for is a black or white wire in most cases that is loose or broken. There may be significant damage to the wire and insulation or you may find nothing and if you put the receptacle back in everything starts working.
If it starts working like this and there are backstabbed connections it will happen again so it is best to move the connections to screw terminals. If your receptacle only has backstabs a new one can be purchased for under 1.50$ in most of the US
A good one for 3-5$ yes there is a difference in quality.
Make sure to do all work with the breaker off to protect yourself. A broken wire or usually a backstab creates this failure in over ~98% of the cases I have seen as an electrician for 40 years with the exact same symptoms.


How do I design a 100 mm thick barrier that maximizes thermal and acoustic insulation?

For thermal, you'll want closed cell foam of some sort. If the wall has to be structural, I'd frame with vertical 2x4s, then on the interior, horizontal 1x1s, spray foam, then your metal panels.

If it doesn't have to be structural, 4" of XPS foam board should work.

That'd be about the best you could do for a thermal barrier.

As for sound proofing, that's a bit of a different goal...especially with interior metal walls...which will reflect a lot of the sound. 4" of insulation and well sealed door openings should get you a decent level of sound deadening, but It definitely won't be sound proof by any means.


The angle is not particularly important.  With sufficient ground stability and fastening, you could do it with a zero angle:  a beam supported by a pair of posts.

For each configuration with a greater angle, the need for strength in the supports and anchoring decreases.  When the angle is 180 degrees, the system is completely stable without any anchors at all.  Of course, it it useless as a swing, but the point is that it is plenty strong.

If I were you, I would just build it to be as wide as is practical if space is tight, or about 30° to optimize height vs. the amount of materials needed.


Are all these duct taping on my furnace normal?

Perfectly normal sealing of penetrations by wires. Looks like a first rate installation.

BTW you have a tee fitting on the condensate line which is well placed to allow cleaning of the line to clear it of algae or wet dust. Many pretty good installations do not have this feature (mine doesn't). It seems to me that you should gently insert a rubber stopper in the open end. This would prevent something falling in and would reduce leakage of air out the condensate drain. At the very least put a loose cover over it to prevent something falling in.


If you want to use T-moulding, you can cut the laminate back to make room. Probably the best tool would be an oscillating mulitool. You can get these with different types of blades, but the key thing is they can do fairly accurate plunge cuts to a controlled depth, and they can cut right in a corner/against a wall with almost no clearance.


So the adapter ring (the split threaded nipple) slips over the stem (the piece with the rubber O-rings). The stem is pushed into the supply pipe (in the wall). To connect the stem to the supply pipe the split threaded nipple is tightened until the stem is snug (the flat spots on the split nipple are there for a wrench). Next try sliding the chrome eschuteon plate on the stem and bring it to the wall. You should be able to fit the spout on to the stem and secure it to the wall plate.


Should I use glue or powder-actuated nails when framing over gypcrete?

I will agree with isherwood regarding the nails to jiggle loose rather fast, as the gypcrete doesn't have the compressive strength to hold them.  The power-actuated is a no-no, as the holding capacity of those nails relies on 2 main factors:

sintering between the steel in the nail, and the concrete, achieved thanks to the high temperature during the split second when you drive the nail in (it's a sort of "welding" between the steel and the concrete)
friction between the concrete and the nail, as the concrete is trying to "pour" back where it used to be before it was displaced by the nail.

As gypcrete is more brittle and has lower compressive strength, it won't hold the nail at all.  Furthermore, powder-actuated nails are design to be driven anywhere between ⅝ and 1" into solid concrete (⅝ into higher PSI concrete, up to 7/8 or a full 1" into softer C15 concrete).  In the lower possible setting (using a green cartridge with a tool that allows you to adjust power, such as the Hilti DX351), you would still punch through the track and sink into the soft gypcrete.
I recommend that you bite the bullet, and drive long screws, such as Tapcon concrete screws, or Hilti's Kwik-Con.  Probably even Grainger's regular concrete screws would do just fine, as you just need them to hold against shear loads.
Source: was a technical Product Manager at Hilti for 10 years.


How can I repair a bed with adjustable head (manual) that is broken?

That is called channel steel or U-channel:

Channel steel is available in a wide range of thicknesses and sizes and available in different grades of steel and aluminum. It's going to be hard to find an exact match for that piece on eBay and if you get a stock piece that you have to cut and drill yourself, you may not have the right equipment on-hand to do so.

It you can take the piece off and take it to a local metal fabrication shop, they may be able to make you a replacement piece - they may not have an exact match in stock, but they may be able to fold you a custom piece. They may also be able to make a stronger piece or reinforce it where it bent. Or may even be able to straighten out your piece and spot weld reinforcements to keep it from bending again.


How can I fix a door with a damaged knob hole?

I'd glue and clamp the wood to put it back together, then install a door reinforcement plate.

Interior doors are usually 1-3/8" thick. Exterior are 1-3/4" thick.


What is the antenna connection on a European TV called?

The photo you posted of  connection on the back of your TV is odd. I do not recognize the connector labeled antenna, the connector for the satellite is a coaxial F connection and that is what typical antenna connectors are in the USA. Do you have the manual for the TV, can you tell us the model number. Possible your tv came with an adapter for this

It is possibly a Belling-Lee connector

Common in Europe and the Australia.

if you are handy you can put a Belling-Lee connector on a coaxial cable. How to wire a Belling-Lee connector

I found this adapter to convert an f connector to a belling-lee.


Why am I getting 60V between the leads of my dryer and the ground?

If the ground is not connected in the panel, you could theoretically read anywhere from 0 to 120V line to ground. The ground is floating, and so is not guaranteed to be 0.

Run an unbroken ground conductor from the panel to the receptacle, and your problem will be solved.


What screws should I use to screw Wedi boards into wood studs using Wedi washers?

Taking a look at their web site, it appears that "Wedi board" is, effectively, a foam version of drywall appropriate for both wet & dry locations. (I looked it up because I had no clue what it was. I included the info here because I figure others in the US may not know either.)
Their web site shows the washers installed with a Phillips head screw through the center hole which appears to be recessed slightly from the surface.

A pan-head screw would work nicely because it's got a flat bottom to hold nicely in the flat of the washer's recess, however the domed top may stick up above the recess and create a bump in the finished surface. At a minimum, your tile mastic (making assumptions...) would have to be thick enough to cover the screw head. If you can find a pan-head with a shallow dome available with a waterproofing treatment, that may be the way to go.

A typical wood screw has a sloped shoulder that will crush into the washer's recess a little bit, but has a flat top that you should be able to get flush with the surface of the washer.

I would think that pretty much any wood screw would work in that situation.

You could use a drywall screw, as those hold drywall up very well when screwed into studs. However, they're not really designed for wet locations and you may end up with corrosion and screws failing due to humidity and leaks.
You could use a galvanized decking screw, since they're designed for holding in wood and are good for wet locations.
You could use a screw designed for cement board, as these are similar to drywall screws, but are protected for use in wet locations.
You could contact the manufacturer to ask what they recommend, then post that here as an answer to help others out.


How can I wire my bathroom light and fan?

Looks like you have a switch for a ceiling or vanity light and that there was probably a double switch for the fan and its light. If that's the case, here's how it goes. I'd strip everything out and start with fresh ends. There should be no tape involved--just properly-sized nuts. Yellow, red, and/or multi-size tan should do.

The cable coming in at center appears to be your source. If that's not true, it's almost certainly the other two-wire cable. You'll need to safely investigate this.
Source black needs two pigtails attached. One goes to the single switch (shown in your photo), and the other goes to your new double switch.
Black from your ceiling/vanity light goes to the single switch (shown in your photo). Position of the two blacks is not important for this switch.
Black and red from your fan go to the new double switch. Positions of the two blacks and the red depend on your choice of switch.
All whites get bundled. No pigtails.
All grounds get bundled, with pigtails to each switch (assuming modern switches with ground screws or pigtails).

Your situation essentially looks like this, though you'd have an additional wire coming off the timer switch:

Note that currently you have three blacks connected to the single switch, one presumably using the backstab socket. In my recipe I'm substituting a pigtail, which I think is a cleaner arrangement.

My condolences on the hideous hack-job done to your drywall.


This looks like a termite tube. Termites can't survive in the open air (too dry) so they build tubes to make a high-humidity highway when they explore new areas. See the web for pictures of termite tubes.


tapping a hole - how close does the drill bit have to be

You need a better supplier.

If you use a 7mm drill bit the threads won’t be properly formed and will have less strength. If the load is critical then it might well fail.

For the 3mm instead of 3.3mm you run the risk of breaking the tap off in the hole, which can be a *real pain to remove as the steel used for the tap is very hard.

Engineering suppliers carry an extensive range of drill bits and Zeus tables used to work out drilling and tapping hole sizes.


How to attach short bottom plate for door frame to concrete floor?

You could run your PT plates across the doorway to begin with, then cut them out after the fact. (Predrill the plate and use tapcon style screws and you won't split even a short bit of plate.) The upside of this is that you'll have a straight line across the doorway. Build a wall on this with another bottom plate/studs/top plate and it's easy to plumb it.

Alternately, you could skip the plate and attach the framing to the wall, but that could have issues with the lumber running nice and straight in line with your opening. Best practices would have you use pressure treated lumber in contact with concrete. (It's a bit of a waste of lumber to have 4 or 5-2x4s stacked up where you don't need them. Plus you'll have a hard time putting a light switch there.)


It's called a "Thumb Turn Cover", "Door Latch Guard", or "Cylinder Guard" and installs under your thumb turn mount plate, so it should be a DIY job.

It took me a very long time to pick out my security door for this reason, it's very hard to find one that blocks potential reach-around disarms for less than $600.  The most secure ones I saw all ensured that the openings within an arm length of the latch were all too small for someone to just stick an arm in. Similarly, the only built in cylinder guards I saw weren't really deep enough to prevent a reach around.

For me, the point of the security guard was so that my girlfriend could open the front door to talk to someone if needed, but not worry about them trying getting into the house.  As adding a cylinder guards would won't protect against this for a quick moving intruder you may want to consider a "Screen Door Grill"  or "Screen Door Pet Gill" installed on the interior side at lock height instead. They mount with screws, so you could DIY it.


How to fish NM cable up, over, and back down

Accept the need to do drywall repair.

Knock some access holes. Unless you are going into an accessible (attic, say) space to go "over a door" you need to drill holes in studs - and if there happen to be holes there now, you still are not going to be able to fish through them without some access holes, IMPE.


Should I extend my house upward or knock down and build from scratch?

I've thought about doing the same thing (adding on an upstairs to my house).  One of the simple problems is permits; the inspection offices want to deal with things they know, and building above an unknown.

Basically, your support comes from below; the new floor rests on the floor below, and the floors below on the foundation.  If you need stronger walls, you need to start tearing things out (eg, drywall) so you can bulk them up, and you can't just add new load-bearings walls without putting some sort of footing in below them; that's near impossible in most construction.

There are typically tables of how much load a room has to be able to support in a given area; 30lb per square foot is pretty typical, but you have to remember that an unevenly loaded area often requires heavier duty walls to deal with the torsional and lateral forces.

I still haven't given up on putting a second floor on my house, but I know that to be able to do it, I'm likely going to have to strip the walls back to see what there is, which means either from the inside (plaster walls) or outside (wood siding), either of which is going to suck to replace.


Need help disassembling Groehe shower thermostat

Unscrew the cap and pull off the brass collar that will reveal the plastic grey temp handle.  Then there is a green clip that is split.  Pull the green clip out and the remaining handle components will come off.  I think it’s component number 1.4 in the parts breakdown.
Visit the grohe website for that trim and it’s really obvious and easy to get it apart.
Good luck!


I think you've hit on the problem. I'd carry a bucket of hot water with me and dunk the segment to be bent for a few seconds before doing so. Pex is really stiff when "cold" (below 60° F or so). It should then bend more easily and somewhat hold the shape after it cools.

Use plenty of pipe hangers adjacent to the bend support to, er... support the support. Alternate sides as appropriate.


How do I determine what load values I need to use when using door/windows header sizing tables?

We only worry about two things: 1) Live loads, and 2) Dead loads.

1) Live Load (loads that come and go): In your case, there isn't a second floor, so you're just concerned about "snow load". (If there was a second floor, then you'd add "people Load". In the U.S., its 40 lbs. per square foot.) You'll need to determine what your building code requires. You can call your local building department and they'll know. (It'll be something like 40 lbs. per square foot, or higher if you live in a snow zone.)

2) Dead Load (loads that are there all the time): You can add up the weight of all the roof components, or use 15 lbs. per square foot, unless you have concrete tile roofing.

Now, the Load on your header is based on those two factors added together and multiplied by one-half the span on your header. So, let's say you have roof trusses that span 28'. Just add 40 psf to 15 psf to equal 55 psf TOTAL Load. Then, multiply 55 psf by 28' and divide by 2 (because half the load goes the other direction away from the header.) which equals 770 lbs. per foot on the header.

Now you can check the tables for the span of your header (width of your window). If your window is 6' wide your header should be 2 - 2 x 10's. (Table 2.)

Simple, huh...


How much ventilation do I need on a small roof?

Venting should be 1/300 of insulated ceiling area, distributed uniformly on opposite sides of the building. (1/150 if slope is less than 1 in 6)

So whether you go with your 1/150 number mentioned in your question, or 1/300: using any vent larger than 8" x 8" at each gable end you are already going well above and beyond either requirement, so like sherlock homes mentioned in his comment, don't overthink it.

If you use a 12" round or octagon louvered vent at each end you will be safely above 1/300, 1/150, and 1/100.

  "The recommended ventilation ratio to provide for vented attic assemblies when an air
  barrier is present, is the 1:300 ratio (as specified by most building codes).  This is based
  principally on good historical experience and simple psychrometric analysis
  (Handegord & Giroux, 1984)." - Building Science Digest 102 (2006-10-26) - Understanding Attic Ventilation


I don't believe there are many regulations about buried water pipe. Best practice in most areas is at least 18" from the top of the pipe, to the top of the ditch.   You  are definitely future proofing your install, but getting a second pipe of same size will be a very snug fit and probably logistically challenging. It's also very unlikely for a pipe to "fail" unless mechanically damaged.  Once in a while a coupling will fail and start leaking if it wasn't glued up well.   But those can be found (think wet spots!), dug up and repaired. Same with mechanical damage.  Surely protecting the 1.5" pipe inside a 4" would vastly minimize the chances of  mechanical damage.   But if you are so concerned about it, why not just run 2 1.5" pipes now? 4" pipe would be quite expensive and hard to install the 2nd line at a later date.   BTW, what type of pipe? PVC? Poly?   One more thing: If PVC, you could run schedule 80, which is pretty tough stuff.


Filling in 1/4" wide sharp joints on cured indoor concrete floor?

You could have caulked them a month after the slab was poured. You can caulk them now. Or vacuum/scrape them out and caulk them now.
Saw-Cut control joints (as opposed to "tool-formed while the concrete was wet" control joints) are inherently sharp. They are less expensive than formed joints. They need to be deep enough to accomplish the goal of having any cracks that form, form at/in them, not at random.
Use a caulking compound made for use on concrete. If the width precludes setting a bead in the top of the joint that will stay put, fill them with foam backer rod and then caulk on top of that.


This is basically going to be landlord work unless you plan playing heating technician and checking the basement pipes. Here's the gist:

Air vents on the radiator must flow air out so it can be replaced by steam to heat. They sometimes have adjustment valves on them so you can balance the system.
Air vents that are producing a lot of noise are either

too small of a vent
clogged up / broken (this is you because you're leaking steam)

Improperly designed systems can also push a lot of air out of the radiators. The steam delivery pipes should also have air vents on them before the radiators.

When working properly, those air valves should not let steam through. They should close when the steam reaches them, and open when there isn't steam. If there are showing visible steam, they need replacement.

I found this to be a good article on caring for steam vents that will provide more detail.


Can I wire a box with two 120-volt duplex outlets each wired to one leg of a 240-volt 3-wire plug?

Your question should be "can I use ground as neutral" since your 6-20 has only 2 hots and ground, no neutral. It is a against code and potentially dangerous to use a ground in place of a neutral.

You need to pull a separate neutral wire back to the panel or sub panel. If you want to keep 240V available, install an L14-20 outlet and use an adapter off of that.


What ampacity circuit breaker would I need for an 18 amp electric heater?

RTFM

After reading the user manual for this heater, as per National Electrical Code.

  National Electrical Code 2011

  ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations

  I. General

  110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment.
  (B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

It appears that it has subdivided heating elements, which requires 2 separate 240 volt 9 ampere branch circuits. It also states that "the electrical connection must be performed by a qualified tradesperson.".

  Connect each lamp circuit to a 230 - 240 Vac, 60Hz, 9 Amp copper wire circuit that is properly grounded. Electrical connection must be performed by a qualified electrical tradesperson.

  Installation must conform with the latest edition Electrical Code ANSI/NFPA N0 70 in the
  U.S.A. and PART 1 CSA C22.1 in Canada.

Select the Conductors

Since you're dealing with space heating equipment, you'll want to check article 424 of the NEC. In article 424, you'll find that the conductors have to be sized to 125% of the load served.

  National Electrical Code 2011

  ARTICLE 424 Fixed Electric Space-Heating Equipment

  III. Control and Protection of Fixed Electric Space-Heating Equipment

  424.22 Overcurrent Protection.
  (E) Conductors for Subdivided Loads. Field-wired conductors between the heater and the supplementary overcurrent protective devices shall be sized at not less than 125 percent of the load served. The supplementary overcurrent protective devices specified in 424.22(C) shall protect these conductors in accordance with 240.4.

So you'll have to do a bit of math to figure out the minimum ampacity of the conductors.

9 amperes * 125% = 11.25 amperes

Now that you know the minimum ampacity required, you'll want to check article 310.15 to figure out what size wire you need. A quick look at table 310.15(B)(16), shows that 14 AWG wire is good for 15 amperes at 60°C.

Select the Overcurrent Protection Device

Now that you've selected the wire size, you can choose your overcurrent protection device.  In this case, you'll want 2 15 ampere dual pole circuit breakers.

Wiring the Circuits

When it comes to wiring the circuit, you have a couple choices.  You can pull two 14/2 with ground cables from the panel to the outlet, or you can pull a single 14/2/2 with ground cable.

Two 14/2 with Ground

Pull two 14/2 with ground cables from the panel to the outlet, and connect the heater as follows:

Don't forget to reidentify the white conductors, by marking them in an approved manner.

One 14/2/2 with Ground

A 14/2/2 with ground cable consists of a black, red, white, white with red stripe, and a bare conductor.  The only drawback here, would be that since there are more than 3 current carrying conductors, the conductors have to be derated by 80%.  Even with the derating, the conductors are still rated for 12 amperes at 60°C. Which is still above the 11.25 amperes required by the circuit, so there should be no problem using this cable (as long as the run is not overly long).

Again, don't forget to reidentify the white conductors.


Why did my mains trip when I used a multimeter on a disabled socket?

That can happen very easily by testing, or shorting, the neutral to earth (ground).
To the elcb for the supply that presents as an excessive trip current so it shuts off the suppy.
Best way to avoid that is to isolate the neutral for that circuit at the consumer unit as well, this avoids the neutral currents from other working devices being an issue.


Switch power between two appliances or power strips?

A 3-way switch, A duplex socket, a length of cord with plug and a nice box will do it.

Attach the live from the cord to the common on the 3-way and attach the 2 traveler connections to the live side of the socket and break of that tab.

Pigtail earth to everything that needs an earth. And make sure there is adequate strain relief where the cord exits the box.

That way if the switch is on one position only 1 side of the duplex gets power, if the switch is in the other position the other side gets power.


Just to stop the ugliness, I would just get a can of Rust-Oleum gloss enamel (black, white, whatever), then remove the hinges from the cabinets.

Clean them thoroughly, and if there's any existing lacquer or hardcoat, try roughing them up with a bit of steel wool. If you can completely disassemble each hinge, that would be ideal; otherwise, work a small amount of silicone lube or grease into the action, to help keep the paint out of the hinge itself (keep the outer surfaces clean, though).

Then, simply give them a couple good coats of the enamel spray; each coat should cover well, but don't go too thick or you'll get runs, drips, etc, as well as having paint over the tops of the moving parts (which will then crack the first time you move the hinge). Let dry, flip and repeat. When both sides are done, reassemble and reinstall the hinges. The enamel should cure into a nice hard shell that should last you until you can spend the money to replace the hardware, or redo the whole kitchen.


You definitely want the primer. Latex paint has lousy adhesion on metal; it gets the nod on galvanized surfaces because oil based paints have a chemical reaction with zinc. The primary reason for the acid is to etch the surface and give the paint a mechanical bond. You really don't want to skip a primer when adhesion is such a big issue.

There are oil-based primers with a high zinc content, with zinc in the name or for galvanized metal printed loudly on the label. They offer superior performance in extreme temperatures and salt water environments. I doubt that it's worth going out of your way to find them, but it might be an option if you see one while you're in the store. You can go over them with a latex paint, just not vice-versa.

You might also be able to get them blasted for a reasonable price at a local powder coat shop or someplace similar. It really only requires a small amount of labor to glass bead something in a cabinet, but we all know shop rates can be wildly divorced from reality.


40 bulb chandelier wiring project - Does dimmer affect amps?

For North American AC wiring, #14 wire is used on 15 Amp circuits, and #12 for 20 Amp.  You will need #12 wire, and a 20 Amp breaker to feed your chandelier.  If you could break the chandelier lights into two groups, you could use two 15 Amp circuits, and would have an easier time finding dimmers to control it.

A dimmer will reduce the effective current when the lights are dimmed, but I think the Electrical Code will require the breaker and wiring to be suitable for the maximum (full brightness) load.


how do you install a glass door on a drywall?

Gypsum board will not support a glass door, unless the door is tiny (like a 6" square).

You will need a frame which goes all around the opening and is secured to a structural member, like a stud. Then the door is attached with hinges to the frame and a latch or latches are installed on the other side of the frame.


Would a drain line being too low cause a problem for the washing machine pump to run dry and damage the machine?

I'm assuming this is a warranty issue with the company blaming you for an installation error.

Your best source of information to fight this will be the install manual that came with the washer (if you don't have it, look it up online).  In there they will list min/max height for drain.


Powerline Adapters and non-grounded outlets

The grounding is a safety measure, it should not affect your connection. Definitely try another ethernet cable.

Now, about that ungrounded outlet..... grounded outlets are a good thing.


That kind of T-connection low down suggests that it joins the wastes from two P-traps.

It is probably more usual for dishwashers to connect above the P-trap of an adjacent sink.

An "appliance P-trap", the tapered nozzle on the left is to connect the outlet hose from an appliance such as a dishwasher.

You can also get a "standpipe appliance trap"

I've not used this type but your appliance hose would be hooked into the top.

If you can remove one of the outlets that your T-joint combines then you might be able to plan a new layout for the waste pipes that provides more space for your appliance.

It isn't clear to me from your photo, exactly what the problem is and what exactly feed the two inputs to that T-join.

In principle you can cut through the pipes and push on a new solvent-weld (or push-fit or compression fitting) joint. But you need enough pipe remaining after the cut to fit into the coupling. The more times you cut and remake these solvent-weld joints the less and less pipe you have to work with.

As you suggest, if there is nothing using the vertical waste pipe above the T, you could cut out the T and cut back the existing pipe far enough to fit a new section of the same type of ABS pipe with two straight couplings.


How to reinforce this concrete wall that wasn't properly drained and is starting to lean 3/4" from top?

I don't believe a metal band across the back will do anything. A perpendicular brace would have to penetrate the wall to the front and have a broad bearing on the front and then go back into the soil inside. It would be a major undertaking and, unless it was artfully designed, an eyesore from outside.  I do think that a wedge of crushed rock behind the wall may help.

In your picture there appears to be a drainage channel in what appears to be a poured concrete footing right under where the crack is. This may be the cause of the crack because the block above is unsupported there. Unfortunately if the soil is tight clay, water will not drain well through channels under the wall. If there are more of these channels in the footing, you can expect cracking at each one.

Visible drainage holes in the middle of walls are unsightly and so, if they are not necessary, are to be avoided, but it may be necessary in your case. Just putting in crushed rock in a wedge at the base of wall may not provide enough drainage. But I think they could be drilled later from the outside. The excavated clay soil could be used to top the crushed rock to direct surface water flow over the top of the wall.

(I see some people where I live putting in horizontal drainage pipes behind and at the base of engineered block walls connecting to unsightly holes through the wall when the whole wall is dry fitted engineered blocks pinned together. There is already drainage around each block.)

Edit after comment: For some reason I was thinking about a metal brace on the back of the wall not being effective. However, a metal brace across the top of the wall might be. This would be a flat steel bar held to the top with bolts going into holes drilled into the concrete filling in the cavity in the blocks. However, this would be costly and unsightly. The steel would rust over time and might be a hazard to a dog or a child.

When you have the base of the wall uncovered you might have to fill each of those drainage holes with dry concrete mix with small aggregate to support the blocks on top. And drill weep holes through the joints in the wall on the outside.

If you can, talk to the guy who built the wall and ask him if he would do some remediation. If this wall cracks and leans over, it won't be good for his reputation. You don't have to mention this explicitly, it's obvious. It could be the original customer insisted on an unreasonably low price and the builder did his best with the budget he had.


Removing Wallpaper Glue - All of it or can I leave faint bits behind?

I also think removing as much old adhesive as possible is what you want to do. I made the mistake of not removing it all a few years ago and now I have to go back. Also, seal with kitz oil based primer.  The skim coat sounds like a lot of work to get it smooth. Is the wall that rough? Af for the need to prime, definitely after skimming, or on any holes you patch. I wouldn't prime before skimming unless there was still glue left.


I have repacked these valves many times using Teflon rope. I have even done it with Teflon tape but the rope is easier and last longer. Turn off the main supply and bleed the pressure remove the gland nut and back the assembly out (good time to inspect the seat and replace if deformed), I have a kit of seals I purchased years ago with 4 or 5 different sized seats, some shaft packing (Teflon rope) and some new rubber seals a good idea for any home owner to have a kit like this to repair faucets under 10$ and just add as you use up and save over a replacement.  I will usually wrap the shaft with at least 3 full turns and more if the shaft is in bad shape put the assembly back together and tighten the gland nut turn the water back on bleed any air out of the line and check for leaks. I do not back seat (fully force the valve open as this is hard on the packing) I learned this with SCUBA diving where you open the valve fully then close it 1/2 to 1 turn to extend the packing life.


How to drill steel with large bit outside the drill press

Use oil to cool the bit, if oil residue is not a problem. Use water if that will be a problem. Keeping the bit cool is crucial to long bit life. The larger the hole the slower the RPM are to be used to drill the hole. Slow enough it is easy to count the revolutions is a good reference for how slow. When using a drill press the RPM are usually slower, and oil or water should be used there too. If the surface is flat, and water is preferred, an easy way to keep water at the drill tip is put an ice cube beside the hole while it is being drilled. The heat will melt the ice and keep a supply of water while drilling.

Another thing I do that I feel helps the large hole get drilled is using a smaller bit to pilot a hole through the metal first. Watch the last part of the hole just before the drill goes all the way through, the flutes of the drill bit will grab hard into the hole and try to wrench the drill out of your hands. That may hurt....


I was about to answer that these stainless steel-wrapped hoses are more reliable than plain rubber, but after looking at some articles on line, I'm not so inclined to say so. This PDF  says they're no more reliable nor last longer than good quality rubber hoses, and another article here says about the same thing. Both rubber and stainless steel clad hoses should be replaced at the same interval, about three - five years.I would still go with the stainless steel hoses, as they're not too expensive and during their lifetime are less prone to damage. However, if your water supplier uses chloramine (as opposed to chlorine) to disinfect your water, then I strongly recommend using good quality rubber hoses and replacing them every three years.


Digital brewery controller: What buck/boost configuration to get to 240VAC from 208VAC?

With the Direct Fire Gas Control Panel that you have, the Specifications on the web site state 30a, 240v electric, single phase (for safety, please use GFCI protection) so you need to make sure that that GFCI is added to your list. With that said I would ask for a brake down of what that $8,900 is for, it sound a little high to me. All of that work could be done in one day with 2 people.  Also ask the landlord if you could get your own estimate, if he refuses then ask why. Most landlord will let you do what you want (with in the law) as long as you put it back the why you found it when you leave. If you do go with the landlords quote make sure that you get to keep everything that you are paying for.


How to cover up wall after removing a row of tiles to fit exhaust vent

Another way that could work well would be to remove the old tile setting cement and and grout left over by adjacent tile. Then source new tile that are cut to fit and install a row along that are set into new setting cement. Afterwards it could look almost perfect.

You would want to look at the tiles that you removed. Some of them may still be re-usable if they did not get all busted up when removed.


How do I stop a sliding door from squeaking?

It looks like you should be able to adjust the "guides", if that's the case you could try just backing them off a tiny bit.

Try turning the screw looking bit, and see if you can slide the guides away from the door a bit.


new plumbing, new HE washer, now wash over flows

I don't quite follow your description, the standpipe configuration might be part of the problem. The gurgling toilet indicates a venting problem, I don't think it would contribute to overflowing, but it is a problem. As mentioned, a photo or diagram is needed for better assessment. My intent is to describe a proper washer installation and address how the height plays into it.

There are all sorts of variations for pipe configurations, this one is very typical. The washer drain ties into the 4" horizontal pipe with a vertical 4x4x2 LTTY (long turn tee-wye). It can be installed flat to gain some vertical, at the cost of an extra ell that introduces a potential clog point.

From the LTTY is a vertical 2" pipe as short as possible before connecting to a 2" sanitary tee. A 2" vertical pipe continues up to tie into the venting system. The vent could be reduced to 1.5" if need be. The side inlet of the santee takes a 2" horizontal (2% slope actually) trap arm. There is a length limit, but it's rather long, it's best to keep it rather short. The trap arm connects to a 2" trap assembly. The trap inlet accepts a 2" vertical stand pipe.

The stand pipe must be a minimum 18" high, straight up, no bends. You cannot connect a washer discharge directly to a closed drain system. There must be an overflow provision such as an open stand pipe. I prefer to see about a 24" stand pipe, but 18" is a code requirement.

This gives you about a 24-30 inch tall stand pipe/trap assembly on top of the 48" height of the main drain, so a total 6-6.5 feet off the floor. Washers have a limit of how high they can pump discharge water. The installation instructions should tell you this somewhere. If not, you may need to contact the manufacturer. If your washer can pump up to the top of the stand pipe while sitting on the floor, you're all set. If not, you will need a platform that raises the washer to within the allowable discharge height.

If you still get overflowing with a proper standpipe-trap configuration, then the main line remains obstructed somewhere.


Unfortunately it sounds like you will need to sand out the areas that are affected. If it has a coat over it, there's nothing you can do to retroactively that will fix the problem because it's effectively shielded by the top layer of finish. I think your problem might have been too course a grit on your sandpaper. I would use no courser than 280 or 320 for a poly finish because unlike a lacquer or conversion varnish (which have harsh solvents that actually melt the surface of the previous layer) poly has to float out over whatever is there. Good Luck!


Connection issue for dual LED utility light

Power strip vs extension cord make no difference.  They are the same thing.  Generally you are not allowed to use flexible cords as a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure.

However, NEC 400.7 specifically allows the use of flexible cords for luminaires.  The minimum permissible wire gauge in such a lamp cord would be 16 AWG.

I don't know if this exception extends to extension cords.  I suspect it does not.

There is no problem using a longer cord.  There's no maximum cord length in the NEC.  However you must install it properly with good strain reliefs.  If you don't know where to find a longer cord, go to Target in the extension cord section and do not leave the section until inspiration strikes!

Check the writing on the cordage to determine its size and type, and make sure this is a type legal for use as cordage.  Most likely it will be.

I would not recommend soldering it to a board.  If there is a metal-enclosed place on the lamp which is suitable, I would leave several inches of the old cord, and use wire-nuts to splice the old cable to the new.  Mind polarization: the edge of the cord will have ribs or a stripe, which goes to the wider blade on the cord, aka neutral.  Polarize the new cord the same way.  This splice must happen inside a metal-enclosed part of the lamp, and it cannot interfere with the strain relief protecting the cord from damage.  Without a ground wire, it's especially important you don't cut open a wire or short it to chassis.


Ironically, the one bulb that I started with does seem to be stuck, but for the rest, there's a spring loaded lever above the plaster; for future travellers, this is how I took it out for painting:


What would cause a furnace to shut off prematurely?

Check the high limit switch.  If the furnace is allowed to continuously over heat, It's likely the high limit switch has burned out.

Make sure that the outlet vents are clean, and clear of debris.  You need good air flow both in, and out of the system. also make sure the heat exchanger is clean, so it can transfer heat properly to the passing air.

If the thermostat has an option for Fan, switch it to Fan and make sure the fan starts.  If the fan does not turn on, you should contact a trained HVAC tech.  Capacitors can be deadly if not handled properly. You could accidentally discharge the capacitor into yourself, leading to electrocution. Or short the capacitor, leading to an exploding capacitor. In either case, it could be deadly.


How can I fix my toilet valve so I can stop jiggling the handle after flushing?

You can purchase a new flapper valve if you can find one of the same model, or my preference is to replace the entire guts of the toilet if they are more than 5 or so years old.  Kits and/or parts are easy to find at your local HI store and it's one of the easier plumbing jobs out there (though notoriously dirty).

Just be sure you follow the first rule of toilet repair: do not over tighten or use force.  The porcelain can take a lot of compression, but if anything is pushed to expand, it will crack easily and you're left with buying a new toilet, replacing the wax seal, and possibly the supply line if your existing one isn't flexible.


The current setting is to pump up to 90 psi and shut off. When the pressure drops to 45 it will turn back on and pump to 90. If you wand a more even pressure reduce the differential pressure. Reducing the differential to 20 the pressure will stay between 90 & 70. this will cause the pump to cycle more often than its current settings. If the pump is cycling rapidly the pressure tank may have lost its air charge.


Ok look, you live in the south like me and I am an insulation company owner in the south.  So a few options.  If the building is wood...do not use spray foam unless your attic space is designed for spray foam.  Essentially a spray foam building has attic spaces designed for the moisture removal.  And most buildings are not designed for this.  If your attic is air conditioned go for spray foam.  If not then you need to stick to the guidelines of your construction.  If you have metal walls then you need a vapor barrier with a 1 inch minimum gap between the metal and the vapor barrier and the wall leads up to a ventilation exhaust out the roof.  Then place your batten insulation in the wall and use what ever wall medium you wish (paneling, drywall, whatever you wish).  The air gap between the exterior wall and the vapor barrier leading to a roof vent is the key as that removes moisture and condensation as well as adds to the R Value of the insulation you install.   For a 4 inch 2x4 wall you need R13 and no more as stuffing an R19 reduces the effectiveness to R11.  So stick to the wall cavity recommended levels. R11 is a 2 inch wall, R13 is a 4 inch wall, R19 is a 6 inch wall, R30 is a 10 inch wall.  Hope this helps as Im a pro!


How to insulate exterior walls with electrical wiring

That's... artsy-looking wiring. I believe the stapling or lack thereof doesn't meet code. We should give due credit though for not jamming all those cables through as few holes as possible.

In any case, you asked about installing fiberglass insulation around the wiring. In the case of cables that fit neat and tidy against a wall stud, as do the three white and one yellow starting at the top left, simply install the batts and don't worry about it.

Cut away insulation so that it fits neatly around junction boxes.

Where cables pass through the middle of the depth of a bay separate the batt halfway through its thickness. Slide part of it behind the wiring and lay the other part in front. This minimizes the compression of the batt. It would also be possible to make cuts in the batt so that the batt can expand around the cable, but if you're using faced insulation it's best to avoid cutting the facing.


How should I investigate an electric feeling from an oven?

as electricity can kill or cause fires, you would be wisest to get an electrician or appliance service guy to have a look.


Extending power from 3 way switch with power coming into the fixture

Your problem: too many hots, not enough neutrals, because the prior installer didn't know how to pigtail
Your problem is that in the fixture box, you somehow have two wires carrying always-hot power down to the switch but nothing carrying neutral to the switch location.  Atop being a violation of 404.2(C) in the current NEC, this is what is stymieing your plans to tap power for the hallway circuit at the switch box, as you need two to tango: a hot to get power from the utility, and a neutral to return the "spent" electricity back to the utility (they want their electrons back, so to speak :).
Anyway, what you need to do is get into the light fixture's box and move the white wire in the 14/3 over from being nutted in with the always-hots to being nutted in with the existing neutrals and remove any tape flags or bands from said white wire while you are in there.  Once that's done, you can button the light fixture back up and move onto the first switch box.
There, we take the tape off the white  wire from the 14/3 to the light fixture box, remove it from the switch common screw, and then nut it to the white wire in the 14/2 exiting that box.  From there, we take a black or red 14AWG pigtail (if you don't have any suitable wire laying around or shuckable scraps of NM handy for that matter, simply get some THHN of the appropriate gauge and color and use that) and nut it in with the junction of the red and black wires in the switch box, then land the other end of the pigtail on the black common screw on the switch that we just vacated.  Once that's done, you should be able to button the switch back up, turn the power on, and enjoy having everything work again!


Cable Incognito is OK here

Your cooktop circuit was wired using what is known as type SE, style U (or just SEU) cable.  This is a jacketed cable with two insulated wires and what is known as a concentric neutral formed by the bare strands wrapped around the inner conductors and then covered by the jacketing.  It is suitable for indoor applications as per NEC 338.10(B)(2) and (B)(4).  (This is unlike the similar-sounding but not quite related type USE cable, which is a direct-bury rated, jacketed or unjacketed multiplex cable that cannot be used indoors as its insulation is not required to be flame retardant.)

As there is only a main panel involved (no subpanels), and both of the current production Frigidaire Gallery cooktops are 240/208VAC only units, you can strip back some of the SEU cable's jacket, twist all the strands into a bundle after peeling them away from the wires inside, feed it into the junction box with an appropriate cable clamp for strain relief while making sure the jacket is clamped with at least 1/4" of it inside the box and clamp, and then cut and strip the inside wires + cut off the excess bundle length.

From there, use Al9Cu listed split bolts or another type of connector (such as a screw type lug) listed for 90degC operation and copper to aluminum connections with 10AWG copper and 8AWG or larger aluminum to make the connection, along with antioxidant compound.  With split bolts, you'll need to insulate the connections yourself as well -- this is done with a self-adhering elastomeric tape first, followed by an overwrap of ordinary PVC electrical tape.

Electrically, what you're doing here is using the concentric conductor to the main panel as an equipment ground as per 338.10(B)(2) with the two inner conductors as the hots as your cooktop has no use for a neutral wire.


15A refers to the receptacles on the front, not the terminals on the back

All 15A receptacles (including xFCI types) made today (and in recent history) are required to support a feed-through rating of 20A -- this means that they can support 20A from one set of screws (LINE for an xFCI) to the other set of screws (LOAD for an xFCI).  As a result, having 15A duplex receptacles on a 20A circuit is A-OK -- you have more than one receptacle there, and pulling a combination of 20A from the two 15A receptacles is OK due to the feed-through rating, so Code permits this.


1~60Hz means 1 (single) phase, 60Hz frequency. Unfortunately, it does not mean 1 to 60 Hz.

Varying frequency is usually written as 50/60Hz, and is less common for electric motors.

It's possible it will work, but it will likely run at a slower rate and may fail early.


What kind of fastener do I need to attach this securely to the studs in my garage?

If you have access to the studs, rather than fastening through a wall covering, you can assure strength by sistering to the studs.

If you use bolts instead of screws, you can make use of washers and nuts to add tensile strength where it is most needed. If you have access to the top side, you're all set. If not, rip the added segment to be narrower, you'll have room behind the piece to add washer and nut.

To manage the full diameter of the fixture, you may have to add a sister to both sides of the stud.

Attach securely the sister piece with screws and if you want additional security, add a quality glue. I tend to the belt and suspenders over-engineering school of thought.

You're correct that the expanding anchors will not perform well in wood.


How do I test to make sure my panel is grounded correctly and all the bonding is correct?

A continuity test should be sufficient to determine that the grounding wires are connected. Edit- To check for continuity with a multimeter, turn the dial to the a symbol that looks like, ►|. Make sure the probes are in the correct places. Some multimeters have three sockets for two probe wires... if that's the kind of multimeter that you have you need to put one probe in the socket marked ohms (Ω). Then attach or touch the probes to whatever you are checking (for continuity) to find out if they are connected. Some multimeter models make a ringing noise, while other models just display a quick burst of numbers which settle down to zero when the meter senses that the probes are connected (electrically).

But beyond that you should check out the article, how to achieve grounding in poor soil. I'm not suggesting that you have poor soil, but this article illustrates how to check it (with a ground resistance testing instrument) and how to treat poor soil if necessary, and points out some other info about grounding.


Nest Hello Has Power but Doesn't (Often) Ring Indoor Chime?

I had a similar issue. Originally the indoor doorbell chime rang, then it stopped ringing the day after install. I found that the reason was that the white Nest connector wires that I added in the chime we’re getting in the way of the electro mechanical solonoid. They were preventing the movement. Once I moved the wires out of the way it started ringing again.

One other thing- there is a setting called Indoor Chime On/Off. If Off, then the indoor chime won’t ring but the Nest doorbell itself will make a bell sound.


Repairing water damage to plaster over concrete block

I understand that you want to remove the damaged material but you also don't want to scrape so aggressively that you end up removing a large amount of undamaged material that could have stayed in place, and it is difficult to know where to draw the line.

A good rule of thumb is that if the material can be removed using light pressure with just your fingers and crumbles away easily then it is too damaged that it probably shouldn't stay there.

Keep removing material that you are able to easily remove using only your fingers. You can use scraping tools to make the process easier and to save damaging your fingers from repetitive wear, but don't remove a piece of material using the scraper that you wouldn't have been able to remove using only your fingers.

You may find that there is material which can be easily removed, but hasn't been water damaged, particularly if this is an old house there may be crumbly plaster just due to it's age or pre-existing damage. Unfortunately that should be removed too.

Once the only material remaining is material which is strong enough to stay there that can't be removed by pulling with finger strength, you can plaster over it, but ensure it is fully dried out first and remove any dust from the surface with a brush.

The reason the wall hasn't dried out for a month is probably that the paint on the surface is preventing the moisture from escaping. Once the damaged paint is peeled off you can use a dehumidifier in the room for a few days with the windows and doors closed to help dry it out.

If you don't have a dehumidifier then the process will take longer but you can help by leaving a window slightly ajar.

I have successfully used this method to repair a plastered wall which was crumbling in parts due to it being over 100 years old. The part of a few square metres which I re plastered has held for over a year now.

EDIT: It looks like you may have to take down your curtain rail temporarily while you sort this out if the damage extends that far.


Edit

For some LED strips once you cut the strip that's it.

That particular brand is linkable once it has been cut. It appears to be DC as opposed to AC so the link would require the correct polarity.

Looking at the product page it does not appear to show any link connectors, rather just the live ends (the part that feeds from the transformer).  But that is not to say it may or may not come with a couple of linkable connectors.

Some hardware stores stock basic LED strips like this but chances are they won't sell individual parts. And there is  a high probability it may be slightly off in size if you did find one that was a similar match. With the sensitivity of LEDs that could lead to the LED working part of the time or not working at all after it has been installed.


Combination Outlet/Switch - Two Wires Only

That weird wire is your neutral, and the conduit's your ground
Your building was wired using what appears to be cloth-covered wires in metal conduit.  This would not be atypical for a large or high-rise building in the 1940s, especially in an urban area with strict building codes.  The mottled pattern you see on the wires in the back of the box is a simple fact of aging, by the way -- those two wires were originally white, and still are much lighter than the other wires in the box.  As a result, we know that those two "weird" wires are actually white neutral wires, with power coming in from the top left and going to an in-line splice with a pigtail to the switch and an always-hot heading off to the top right, where the switched-hot also departs the box.  Furthermore, since we have metal conduit here (from the lack of paper packing or jacketing peeking through), we know that the conduit itself provides grounding here.
As a result of that, and since this circuit serves only this bathroom, we are clear to install a GFCI/switch combo receptacle here.  You'll have to cut the existing splice in the neutral out and add a neutral pigtail to do this, though, as well as cutting out the existing pigtail splice in the hots and replacing it with a new splice and pigtail that also joins one of the switch wires into the bundle of hots.  The other switch lead gets connected to the switched-hot then, and the hot and neutral pigtails we created land on their respective LINE terminals on the GFCI.  The LOAD terminals stay unused, and you can either use a grounding pigtail to connect the GFCI's ground screw to a 10-32 ground screw driven into the back of the box, or use a self-grounding GFCI/switch combo that's listed for grounding through the mounting screws.


Looks like an air admittance valve (AAV).  They are allowed in some areas.  You'd have to check with local building codes, to know if they're allowed where you are.  Your local building department should be able to tell you, but I would suspect they are allowed (unless the plumbing was installed by an amatuer).


Need help figuring out X11 3-way switch connections (6 wires from one box)

My guess is (and this is only a guess pending more information):

The 3 wire cable containing 'A' goes to the light(s).
'A's associated black wire is unused and its white wire 'B' provides neutral for the light(s).
The travelers' associated black wire is wirenuted to the feed wire and connects to the other 3-way sw (you labeled it 'C') on its common screw.
The travelers and 'A' connect to the 3-way sw with 'A' on the common screw.
The wires 'B' and Neutral wirenut together to provide neutral to the light(s).
And finally because a conventional sw doesn't need power, get rid of the pigtail you labeled as 'Hot', while keeping the 2 black wires wirenuted together.

The more information I mentioned is this:
It looks like there're 2 3-wire cables coming into the top of the box and 1 2-wire cable coming into the bottom of the box. label the wires, including that black wire that looks like it is shoved into the box unused, as to which cable they're associated with, e.g. cable #1, cable #2 and cable #3. Because cables and wires have two ends, knowing where the other end of a wire is can tell you more than what a tester or meter can.


Do Silent Condensate Pumps for Air Conditioners exist?

Short answer. In my experience as an HVAC technician:

There is no completely silent condensate pump on the market that Me or my Suppliers are aware of. If there was, everyone would be buying them.

There are however certain pumps on the market that are designed to take into consideration sound level. The quietest pump i have ever come across is the DiversiTech ClearVue Condensate Pump. They have great build quality along with all DiversiTech products, and also has a built in alarm and over flow sensor that can be wired into your HVAC system to stop operation of the air conditioner if there ever is a blockage in the discharge line, or if the pump should fail for whatever reason.


The new fixture will be attached by the following: two black wires from the new fixture will be connected to the red wire from the ceiling box.  The two white wires from the new fixture will go to the whites in the box. Grounds will go to the bare wire.  P.


How do I replace the water supply line that appears to be built in to the shutoff valve?

I've dealt with these before. The flex pipe is silver soldered into the valve body, probably a product design of the day to dispense with having a problematic compression fitting that would eventually leak.

If you loosen the nut from the pipe nipple, the valve body and flex supply line pipe will be rotatable to position it for a direct lineup to the faucet inlet.

Even if the other end of the metal flex supply line is compatible with the faucet (sounds like it isn't), brass and copper flex work harden from bending into position and can crack if disturbed for later repairs, so I don't recommend reusing it. The only way to fix this is to replace the shutoff valve with a 1/2" to 3/8" right angle shutoff. The newer ones available are nice quarter turn units. Remove the compression fitting nut and ferrule and the 3/8" supply line should thread right on. They use a neoprene flat washer now that gets rid of the leak problem the original silver-soldered supply line was meant to prevent.


Do I need 5V or 12V to power a LED light strip?

LEDs don't really have a forward voltage requirement. They have a forward current limit, and that in turn affects the voltage. Current limiting is most commonly done with a resistor, the value is chosen with simple math using the forward voltage drop and desired/maximum current. You can use almost any voltage you want until you reach the sparky levels.

However, the above only applies to raw LEDs. if you are using a manufactured product you must use whatever power the product calls for. If it wants 5V, you buy a 5V supply.

5V is standard USB bus power, so if the product is intended for use anywhere near a computer they will probably build it for 5. 12V is standard in vehicles. Both voltages are popular away from those markets, with the choice often as boring as it matches other things that company makes.


Individual conduits for each phase to reduce amount of stud being drilled

You don't need to make your single conduit nipple that fat

A 2" nominal nipple is overkill here -- a 1.25" nominal Schedule 40 PVC nipple provides 561mm2 of usable fill since the 60% nipple fill rule (NEC Chapter 9, Note 4) applies to your circumstance as your nipple is far shorter than the 24" limit on this rule, while your four conductors add up to just under 533mm2 of area using Table 5 dimensions for the THHNs and a bare 2AWG copper wire for the ground (this saves a bit on fill compared to using an insulated THHN for the ground wire).

Given that the OD of 1.25" nominal schedule 40 PVC is 1.66" as per Cresline's specifications, this fits within the 2.1" maximum bore allowed for a doubled load-bearing 2x4 (3.5" wide) stud by the 60% rule in IRC R602.6.  If doubling the stud is not an option, then the alternative is to use a high-strength (tensile capable/wraparound) stud shoe such as a Simpson HSS2-SDS1.5 with the full complement of specified fasteners to reinforce the bored area.

If you want to use RMC instead

If, for one reason or another, you want to use RMC or EMT with bonding bushings instead of PVC here, a 1.25" nipple will suffice as well, given that you only need a bit under 500mm2 of fill as the nipple becomes the grounding conductor in that case, whereas a RMC or EMT nipple provides over 590mm2.


What size of screw do I need to fix a 26" TV to a brick wall?

Use the longest screw you can without excessively damaging the wall. It's far better to have a more stable installation than chancing the television from falling.

Looking at it another way, if you use screws that are too small and are forced to redo the job, you're going to have more damage from the original installation than you would have if you had just used larger screws to begin with.


How can I extract a broken off 1/2 inch threaded galvanized pipe?

Screw Extractor: (cromwell.co.uk, #3 is what you need, I think. Finding them at a real store and comparing actual sizes might help)

For larger sizes, use an Internal Pipe Wrench: (plumbingsupply.com)


Right transfer switch for connecting small generator to a 100amp service?

We don’t know your panel type but I think a few of us would suggest a 30 amp power inlet & 30 amp double pole back fed breaker 10 awg wire with a mechanical interlock kit that won’t allow power to the panel without turning off the main.
(If you compare prices and the cost of a 20 amp inlet is only 10-15$ Less go with the larger one upgrading in the future would require replacing everything but the mechanical interlock itself so going a little larger now may save the need in the future)
After this you can select the circuits to energize and it is code compliant and one of the least expensive methods.
This will allow even future upgrades of the generator 2x of what you have and because the 30 amp is more common it may be cheaper I am not sure as I have always installed 30 and 50 amp 240v inlets.
Note I have suggested this on 4 small generators I have installed 2 went with my suggestion 2 ended upgrading once they realized they needed a larger generator.


Cleaning/scrubbing asbestos from the air and heating ducts?

Asbestos removal is very much the job for experts. If there is a chance that it has become airborne, you really need to call in a licensed professional to evaluate and, if necessary, remediate.

This is not a do-it-yourself project.


what can i do with this old weird tub combo?

It's not really weird.   It was actually a pretty big trend starting in the early 60s through early 80s.   The fully enclosed combo kits.   Easy to install.   Waterproof out of the box (unless you really flubbed the install).   Don't have to do a lot of work to install it and they last forever!
So here is the deal.   You don't know what is above the shower.   You need to open that front part of the wall up above the shower and shine a flashlight in there to scop out what is there.

Either it is full of hvac, electrical, plumbing and will require a bit of work to move that stuff around.   Good new here is that the drop seems rather big so if there is stuff in this section you could surely condense it if you don't want to totally move it.

Or someone got the current kit and decided to lower the ceiling to make the kit fit perfect.   If this is the case good news for you.   You probably can take out that entire box and redrywall the ceiling and be done with it (might have some minor electrical going through it).


How do I switch the furnace to heat mode?

Depends on the specific setup of your system.

Some systems have a switch (typically labelled "Winter/Summer" IME) others just note if the thermostat is calling for heating or cooling.

Some thermostats have a "Cool-Off-Heat" mode switch on the thermostat itself.


Diodes burn due to overload conditions where too much current flows through them.  Generally that is a symptom of another problem, not a problem in and of itself.  Although if burned sufficiently enough the diode will not function as intended and this may adversely affect the overall circuit operation.


Is it ok to use vinyl sheet as a temp cover for a boiler flue hole?

The vinyl would be OK to seal this but don't fit your vinyl so tight that it comes in contact with the flue. Leave a gap between the flue and vinyl, the pipe collar will over the gap.


How do I install an air conditioner on a horizontal sliding window?

Most of the ones I've seen are install like this with a timber frame made to sit into the window frame then put the air-conditioner inside of the frame and box it out with plywood, but this looks like a much neater installation where the frame is made from c channel with a perspex panel above the airconditioner.

It would probably depended on how long you intend to have the air-conditioner install in the window, as to which option you would go with.


Wobbly desk with IKEA tabletop and IKEA legs

As it appears the 'wobble' is between the metal leg, the metal bracket, and the bolts provided, I'd say this wobble is due to IKEA's ahem rather wide tolerance specifications.

In other words, sometimes you just get wobble when it comes to IKEA products. :)

I'd suggest using something to solidify the connection between the leg and the plates. JB Weld would be a possible option. Mix it up and put a generous amount between the leg and bracket, then tighten up the bolts. Let it set up for about 24 hours and you should now have solid material between the two parts to shim the wobble away.


Do I NEED to remove the wood trim to sand and re-stain it?

We have a similarly old house, and I can say, if you are patient, stripping, sanding, and refinishing can be done in place.  We have done casing trim, and baseboards in place, but chose to remove the window apron to refinish that.  For grooves, look into dentist picks to pull any paint.

For sanding, use odd shapes of scrap with sandpaper adhered to it.


GFCI's on BLACK/RED dual 15-amp circuits

To start with, this is a shared neutral aka multi-wire branch circuit. One rule of MWBCs is that neutrals must be pigtailed when the other hot is near; you can't daisy-chain neutral through a device like a receptacle, because that would sever neutral for the other side if you removed it.

Keep in mind on a plain recep, all screws are LINE.  There is no LOAD on a plain recep, because it doesn't do anything special like provide GFCI protection, dim, etc.

If you leave the warning tape on the LOAD terminals and don't use it, then you don't have any worries about GFCIs tripping from miswiring.  The only time you'd get in trouble is if you did that thing with daisy chaining neutrals, that thing you're not allowed to do anyway, and tapped a recep's LOAD terminal for that purpose - in that case, you are correct, the GFCI would have a problem with that.

 However, there's a safer way to wire your dock

Delivering GFCI protection at the socket is better than nothing, but there are all sorts of wire failures before the receps  that could leak current into the ground around the lake.  And many miswirings could cause the same effect.

Further, outdoors is a terrible place to put a GFCI device; they fail all the time there.

So you are actually better off fitting a 2-pole GFCI circuit breaker back at the service panel... And then you don't need any additional protection dockside.  The's no need to put a GFCI on a GFCI.  This will protect the entire cabling run, as well as all wiring dockside.