What could cause a tubs drain to gurgle when the toilet is flushed?

The gurgling typically happens with a vent pipe blockage. Without a source of air to follow behind the rushing water, a vacuum is created that will result in gurgling. You may be seeing that now if the vent pipe is partially blocked and there isn't enough air to support the faster flow. It may be necessary to snake out the vent pipe from the roof and/or run some water to clear out any debris that has collected inside.

Bubbles in a toilet below the water source (upstairs toilet) may be a sign of a blockage further down the drain. If that's the case, you may need your main drain line snaked and the plumber may need to run a scope down the line to find the location and cause of the blockage. It's possible that the enzyme pushed a clog further down the line, or the slow drains may indicate your septic system has started to backup into the house and needs to be serviced.


trouble wiring smart ceiling fan switch.

Connect

COM to L

A1 to L1

B1 to L2

You'll also need to connect the white wire in the box to the N terminal.

There should be a ground wire in the box as well, connect to the GND terminal

(There will be two white neutral wires in the box, connected to each other. They have to stay connected so you'll add a pigtail (a separate short wire) to that connection to provide the wire to the N terminal. Same thing for the bare copper ground wire.)


Max gap size for effective drywall joint compound

You'll be fine, though you might want to go buy a bag of setting type (dry powder, mix with water - sets, rather than drying out like the stuff in a bucket) joint compound, both because it's the right type for use with mesh tape, and becasue of this tid-bit from USG:

  Open spaces between panels of 6.4 mm (1/4) or more should be filled with compound at least 24 hours prior to embedding or first-coat work. Setting-type joint compounds, which are hardening types, are recommended for these large fills. With these setting-type compounds as a fill, joint treatment may begin as soon as the compound has hardened, eliminating the typical 24-hr. drying period.

From this document: http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/canada/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/cgc-construction-handbook-ch5-finishing-drywall-systems-can-en-pdf.pdf

As the real 'rockers say, mud covers a lot of sins...or gore.


My house's perimeter drain system is full of water, why might that be and how do I fix it?

I had a similar recurring issue after long heavy rains. The drain pipe would fill and take a long time to drain. Turned out the dirt under the pipe where the drain hole was would turn to mud and essentially act as a seal. I ended up digging the drain end up and putting some gravel underneath. Drain pipe never stays full too long anymore.


Does Pex tubing have any advantages over copper?

From Pex Information:

Flexible PEX tube is manufactured by extrusion, and shipped and stored on spools, where rigid plastic or metal piping must be cut to some practical length for shipping and storage. This leads to several advantages, including lower shipping and handling costs due to decreased weight and improved storage options.
PEX plumbing installations require fewer fittings than rigid piping. The flexible tubing can turn 90 degree corners without the need for elbow fittings, and PEX tubing unrolled from spools can be installed in long runs without the need for coupling fittings.
Attaching PEX tube to fittings does not require soldering, and so eliminates the health hazards involved with lead-based solder and acid fluxes; PEX is also safer to install since a torch is not needed to make connections..
PEX resists the scale build-up common with copper pipe, and does not pit or corrode when exposed to acidic water.
PEX is much more resistant to freeze-breakage than copper or rigid plastic pipe.
PEX tubing does not transfer heat as readily as copper, and so conserves energy.
Water flows more quietly through PEX tube, and the characteristic "water hammer" noise of copper pipe systems is virtually eliminated.
PEX plumbing installations cost less because:

PEX is less expensive than copper pipe.
Less time is spent running pipe and installing fittings than with rigid pipe systems.
Installing fewer fittings reduces the chances for expensive callbacks.

If you are only going to be doing a little bit of work, check with your local rental stores, you may be able to rent the tool for a decent price.


The lower right hand "ear" on the receptacle can be broken off. It is scored for just that purpose. You bend it back and forth with pliers and it breaks off. The screw will then not prevent the receptacle from fitting flush. If the screw nevertheless interferes with the cover plate fitting flush, you could replace the screw with one which has a lower head.

In fact all 4 of the ears could be removed and the receptacle screwed hard to the metal box. Some sources say that the purpose of those ears is to provide spacer washers in case the box is too far into the wall. So if you want try one or two of them between each mounting tab and the metal box, you could. But this box would appear to be in the plane of the wall and you would save them for later use.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/receptacles-mounting-ears-what-purpose-4959/


How can I install ceiling mounted recessed occupancy sensors?

There are switches that have motion sensors in them.

There are also Light fixtures that have sensors in them, you would need all new fixtures.
If by spot lights you mean recessed lights this may not work.

We had the switch type in a rental once. I may put them in a hall but never in a main room as every few minutes you had to wave your arms to turn the lights back on. I dont remember how far the sensor could see.

One of these will be the easiest way to add motion sensors, if none of these suits you more info will need to be given about the wiring you wish to change i think.

Do you have a link to the type of device you want to install?


How to get rid of these white spots or fungus?

You must live in a warm humid climate. If so, then these are indeed fungi or mold (same thing). Fungi reproduce via spores. The spores are in the air all the time, so you cannot get rid of it, you can only attempt to manage it. They grow on certain surfaces in warm, humid conditions. They are growing even when you are home, but your activities disrupt the colonies so they remain small and invisible. Left undisturbed, the colonies become large enough to be visible as white spots.

To manage fungus growth, encourage environments they dislike-- cold and dry. Very difficult in warm humid climates unless you can run air con all the time. At least avoid introducing any additional moisture into your environment. Avoid using surfaces in your residence that they like, such as cloth, in favor of surfaces they dislike, such as hard materials. Of course, it's difficult to wear hard materials.

Even on surfaces they do not grow, their spores sit and remain dormant until a disturbance moves them to a favorable surface. Regular cleaning of all surfaces with a mild chlorine bleach solution will help keep spores and colonies in check. For surfaces and clothing where bleach would be damaging, wash with the hottest water possible. For materials where hot water would be damaging, use anti-microbial soap. Use this soap only as needed, as regular use promotes the development of "super bugs" that are resistant to normal controls such as methicillin.


Does the cloth jacket on my wiring contain asbestos?

This cloth covered wire is very common and not an asbestos product. With that said in some cases where ceiling were sprayed with popcorn texture or the wire pulled through an area with asbestos the cloth holds onto the fibers. We tested some for a owner that wanted everything tested and did get a positive on one or 2 sections but the insulation on the wires and the cloth itself are not asbestos.


How to add grounds to a 120 amp panel and grounds electrical outlets

I am going to assume a few things. First the inspection you are referring to is by a home inspector and not the AHJ. I have to say I have never been very impressed with the home inspectors of this area because they are not licensed electricians, plumbers or HVAC-R mechanics. They are simply someone who is somewhat familiar with general construction and building codes, and they were able to pass a general inspection test to be qualified to inspect houses. Some are pretty good. Some not so good.

I really have a hard time believing that you have a main panel without a ground. I can believe you have circuits not grounded in a house built before the mid 1960's. If what I just said is true then your house is legal under the grandfather clause. Any changes to your electrical system is an upgrade and if the buyer wants an upgrade then he should be responsible for cost incurred or a mutual agreement between the buyer and the seller.

My advice is to hire your own electrical contractor and have him review the comments and reinspect the house. Then he can present you a letter on his own letterhead and license number stating that the system meets the code it was constructed under. He will probably also suggest to you what you really need to fix.

I can't speak for the State of California or your local jurisdiction, but my masters license and a letter on with my letterhead and my license numbers (contractor and master) over rides any home inspectors report in this area.

PS My license never over rides the AHJ.

Hope this helps.


What size beam should be used for a 15' patio cover span?

Late to the party, and I hope your patio turned out well.

For anyone finding this question in the future, the answer could be a 4x10 beam with 14' spacing and a patio span of 15' 2x8 rafters.

https://www.escondido.org/Data/Sites/1/media/pdfs/Building/InfoGuideline8b.pdf

A lot of cities or counties will have standard drawings for simple structures, and you can check building departments for things like live load and dead load requirements (snow and wind). This one seems to be a good example that includes span tables and connection details.


How to use alternate flush mode on toilet

It's not an alternate mode, per se. Those values are the minimum and maximum tank volumes based on float setting. [Correction: These values seem to apply to High Efficiency (HE) and Ultra-high Efficiency (UHE) bowl/valve options. Since the values are printed on the bowl, they don't tell you much about the particular tank installed. However, the stamp in your bowl does indicate which you have (1.6 gpf).]
Your toilet is no different from all those that came before in the sense that when you lift the flappy-doodle with the levery-bit all the water falls out. They're rather unintelligent devices.
To reduce flush volume, adjust the float to a lower level. There's probably an adjustment screw on it where you can move it down. This shuts off the water sooner on fill.


What material to use for cosmetic red brick touch ups outside?

I would find color-matched urethane caulk. You'd be able to easily apply it with the nozzle and it's dead-reliable. Companies that make fibercement siding often have an array of colors available.


The world of aircraft construction uses drilled-head bolts to secure things that may otherwise vibrate loose or cannot accept a locking nut. I've used drilled head bolts with safety wire to secure a wooden propeller to the threaded hub.

In this application, it would appear that the cable passes through the length of the bolt and the threaded hole in the head would accept a set screw.

I'm inclined to agree that they items would have been custom made for the manufacturer, but that would not preclude having some made, especially in a small CNC shop.

It seems unlikely that they would have to be particularly strong (as in aircraft grade, or high carbon steel, or grade-8) and could even be done by a hobbyist. I have a "toy" lathe from Harbor Freight that would handle the 3/16" through hole and a "toy" milling machine from another source that would manage the set screw hole easily enough.

You could save a bit of labor by purchasing existing drilled head bolts, although those may be quite strong and difficult to machine.


Wiring a ceiling fan that has two 2-way switches to a universal ceiling fan wall control

If I understand correctly, you have a fan control, that controls both the light and fan. For the existing switches you will be eliminating one of them. The new switch should have a wire for the light (red/blue), fan (red/blue), a single line-in (power source), neutral (generally white) and ground (green or similar). You will eliminate 1 line-in (you had 2, 1 per switch) as you now only need 1 for the new switch. If they are pig-tailed it makes it easy to remove 1. The switch itself should also have the wiring diagram as well which will help. What I just gave is a general. Hopefully it'll help get you going in the direction needed.


Maybe you would be better off just getting a lighted mobile. Leave the fan alone. Just a thought.


I can see some cracks in the cement at the top of the drain. it looks like the drain is full of debris is it draining properly? If the drain is plugged or partially obstructed the water may be backing up enough and flowing through the cracks. Sealing the cracks with hydraulic cement (outside the house) will reduce the amount of water escaping the box and that should reduce the water entering the basement. Make sure to seal the cracks all the way to the bottom if they extend that far down I cant tell in the photo.


I can't think of any reason why not - and in fact I'd recommend it.

Right now your sump is draining water out right next to the house, which means its seeping back into the ground right against your foundation, which means your sump pump is ultimately pumping at lest some of the same water multiple times.


Could power fluctuations have killed my refrigerator?

That kind of flicker can kill your house. I'd get it fixed before proceeding with anything else. Loose connections and undersized wire = potential fire.


18 gauge wire is commonly used in mass-produced lamps. I don't see a problem with using it for single runs of 60w max. It's rated for 7 amps at up to 50 feet. You'll draw about half an amp.

However, the connections you make are perhaps more critical. Be sure to use sound methods when bringing the wires together at the source.


I would suspect you have a two fold problem.
1: Your tankless water heaters ability to heat and deliver water - GP/m.
2: Your city pressure (indicated by your outdoor faucet) - not sure if you tested that with the faucet removed or still attached;  Just because you have a certain amount of pressure from the city does not mean you have the same flow rate. Your flow rate might be different as in GP/m's supplied at X pressure.

Item 2 is what I would examine - check with your municipality to see if there is a flow rate restriction of some kind (what is their spec for flow rate at what pressure), or perhaps your house water supply valve is not open all the way.


How remove Sakura R-727II range hood to clean inside?

The installation manual appears to have all the information you will need to uninstall the hood for cleaning. Although I'm not sure why you would need to completely uninstall this hood in order to clean it.
However, if that's necessary just follow the installation instructions in reverse starting with removing the bottom panel to access the four mounting screws at the inside top of the hood. These screws have keyhole openings and only need to be loosened to slide the unit forward. Be sure to turn off the power before attempting to remove any electrical connections.


How to wire a relay for an evaporative cooler to a thermostat?

You'll want to connect the Y and C wires to the coil of the relay, so you end up with something like this.

When the temperature switch in the thermostat closes (calling for cool), 24 volts will be applied to the relay coil.This should pull the contact in the relay to the normally open (NO) position, allowing electricity to flow to the evaporative cooler (or whatever 120V device needs to be powered).


Is water pipe grounding achieved thru pipe or thru water?

The grounding is accomplished through the metal pipe, not through the water.

Pure water is an effective electrical insulator. It's only conductive when there are dissolved salts in it (not just NaCl, but any metal salts creating free ions floating around in the water). In that case, water can become a very good conductor. But it isn't really the water doing the conducting.

That PVC pipe is not creating a suitable path to ground.

You need to drive at least one grounding rod (probably an 8' copper or galvanized steel solid rod, which you can buy at your local home improvement warehouse), and run a #6 copper wire from that rod to your main service panel, where you'll bond it to the grounding bus. You also need to leave all of your copper and/or iron pipes bonded to the grounding bus in your main panel.


Proper Setup for Water Heater Gas and T&P Relief Valve

All backed up

The primary problem with your setup is that what you have right now is a sanitary hazard, as there is no air gap preventing sewage from backing up into the T&P discharge line.  A standard water-softener or standpipe type air gap fitting can be used for this task, though, and is inexpensively available wherever plumbing supplies are sold.

The rest of the setup, though, is OK; the cellular core ABS pipe is fine since it's downstream of the standpipe, and discharging T&P relief water to a standpipe via an air gap is an acceptable means of T&P discharge, as per IRC P2804.6.1 point 5 which permits discharge of T&P relief water to a "waste receptor", which by Code can be a hub drain, standpipe, floor/mop sink, or floor drain.


130 PSI- Irrigation system, water line in house

It will depend the material used, the diameter of the pipe, and the temperature.

What you want to know is what is the maximum working pressure of the material that was used. Most likely it will be higher then 130 psi. Some examples are:

Copper (type L & K)
PVC
CPVC
PEX

Regardless, you will need a PRV. If it was me, I would install the new PRV on the line near the point of connection to the main. Then, adjust the PRV so that you have the desired pressure at the irrigation box.


Why does my heating work poorly in moderately cold temperatures?

Just a guess, but the colder it gets the longer the boiler cycles and the hotter the delivery water temperature gets so therefore the radiators get hotter before the thermostat shuts the boiler off.

In moderate temperatures, the thermostat shuts the boiler off before it gets very warm and so your radiators are barely above room temperature.

Check to see if your boiler has any kind of temperature control on the delivery water going out into the system. You may be able to adjust that for better performance in moderate weather.

Good luck with your project!


How to hang load from ceiling I-beam joists behind drywall?

If you don't mind the look, I'd suggest a 2x6 run perpendicular to your joists. Ideally, you'd get 3 joists (so a 2x6 slightly longer than 4', assuming you've got 16" spacing) with at least 2 good 3.5" #10 screws each. (Since these are pretty big screws, you'll want to drill pilot and clearance holes.) To attach the rock rings, use 6/7mm -ish cord through holes you've drilled in the 2x6. (If you don't want to dent the drywall, just chisel a small channel across the top of the holes.)


Nothing easier.

The clump of all-white wires is actually neutral.  The lamp actually needs neutral, and neutral must be white.   Add it to the clump.

Now let's talk about color codes.  You may think that the colors of wires are for the sole purpose of helping novices wire things up.  I have an alternate theory for you.   Go down to the building supply and look at all the different kinds of cables, especially the variety of color combinations available.  There isn't any.  Variety.  All cables are black-white, or black-white-red.   So clearly, this is a standard of manufacture, and every installation is forced to use the same colors!

So outside of "neutral is white", colors aren't a lot of help.  White isn't even necessarily neutral.   Now that's debunked, this gets a bit clearer.

the red wire is an orphan.
the fan was connected to the red wire previously, and nothing was connected to the black cluster.

Based on both facts, the lamp black needs to go to the solo red.


I found my answer - pasted below for completeness.

Short answer is 2+ oz to 1 gal.

Homespun Paint Stripper
Mixing your own.

By The OHJ Technical Staff
Old House Journal

Well before today's sea of commercial chemical- and solvent-based paint removers flooded the market, folks set on stripping mixed up their own. This caustic-type stripper is concocted to taste from common ingredients that cost next-to-nothing.

1lb household lye (caustic soda)
2 or more boxes grocery corn starch

In a non-metallic container, such as a joint-compound bucket, gradually dissolve lye in 2 gallons of warm water. Start with a medium-strength solution Ñ say 2oz. lye per gallon of water. Test for effectiveness, then increase concentration if desired. Make a pasty stripper by mixing corn starch and water in another bucket. When the water is milky, slowly blend it into the lye solution.

Apply with a tampico-bristle (whitewash) brush; the stripper is particularly practical for removing paint on masonry. However, like all caustic strippers, this mix is highly basic and will darken some hardwoods. Test first in an inconspicuous area and rinse the surface thoroughly before repainting. Most important, work carefully while mixing and applying the stripper. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves, making sure to rinse skin immediately if it comes in contact with stripper.

Edit:  I attempted mixing this as strong as 1 lb Lye: 1 gal water and letting it sit for more than 3 hours (while reapplying frequently)  Still no luck on my deck.  Back to finding a commercial solution


Add drain line to existing Island fixture vent?

No, you can't add a new drain to the vent stack. That would compromise the function of the vent.

To add another drain in to your plumbing system, you have to make sure that the waste line and vent are large enough for the fixture.


Splitting off one leg of a 20A 220v circuit for a plug - Is this to code?

You're fine putting the receptacle there

You have a common-trip, two-pole breaker (instead of two handle-tied single pole breakers or an independent trip breaker), so that meets the disconnecting and OCP requirements for a mixed 120/240V circuit (210.4(C) Exception 2), and since the motor FLA is only 8A, it doesn't exceed the 50% (10A) limit on hardwired loads where receptacles or luminaires are also present (210.23(A)(2)).

Since the breaker is 20A and this will no longer be a motor-only circuit, not only do you need to use 12AWG wire for the connection to the new receptacle, you need to make sure the existing wiring is all 12AWG or thicker, and replace any substandard wire found.  Also, make sure the motor has a built-in thermal overload protector or is impedance protected as per 430.32(B) and 430.53(B). (Look for a red button on the motor, or the letters 'T.P.' or 'Z.P.' on the motor nameplate.)


Should this roof be fixed now (shingles)?

Get the curling ones fixed. As you're getting quotes for that, ask for a quote for an entire re-roof and decide for yourself. (If it was me and I had the money, I'd re-roof entirely to save the bother of having segments out-of-sync, but I understand the way new home ownership goes.)


Do all permanent lighting fixtures need to be switched, per NEC?

The problem comes in with the type of fixture, a ballast requires a switch or local disconnecting means in the fixture depending on the type of construction.  an Edison lamp (screw in) would be ok. Having a light on all the time actually is ok by code but some fixtures like fluorescents that have ballasts require a way to disconnect the power locally . I would not be concerned in any occupancy to do this but label the blank plate where the switch was what it used to control. My personal preference would to be to add an occupancy sensor up at the lamp. Any movement turns the light on from 1 to 20 minutes on the models I use.saves power and I support several hundred in my plant and only have 1 or 2 a year fail in really nasty conditions.


Why does my bathroom door make a cracking sound when opening it?

First guess: sticky paint.  With the screws loose, there's less contact between paint on either side.

See also Doors are sticky and noisy when opened?


Just bought first impact driver, do I still need to pre-drill holes?

If the wood is prone to splitting, it'll still split when you don't drill pilot holes, impact drill or not.


Duplex outlets in series AND parallel after GFCI

Electrical cable/conduit routing must be tree topology
You can also wire things in a "vine" topology, like 12-15-16-17 - after all, a vine is a type of tree.
You can also wire in a star topology (like 12-9-15-14-13). That counts as tree topology also.  (but with many connections, box fill rules must be followed just like anywhere else).
You can freely mix them all.
Here's the acid test: In your graphics editor, take your cabling diagram (remove the non-cablng elements like gray walls).  Now, grab the paint can tool, and pour purple color anywhere on the diagram.  Does it fill the whole diagram?  Then you have tree topology. Yours appears to pass.


Installing a ceiling light fixture in USA that was purchased in HongKong?

If it's a simple light fixture that does nothing more than hold bulbs, there's only a couple things to check.
Socket base
The first thing to check is the socket base(s), size and shape. I'm not sure what's common in Hong Kong, but you'll want to make sure bulbs from the US can fit in the sockets.
Wire size
The next thing to check is the size of the wires in the fixture. You'll want to make sure they're large enough to handle the load of the lamp(s). It will completely depend on how the fixture is wired, but 18 AWG - 14 AWG is common in US fixtures.


It is common/normal for valves to be rated for multiple service types.

As such, so long as it is rated/certified/locally acceptable for the type of service it is in, and rated at or above the operating service pressure of the service it's in, it's fine.

Locally, I'd be looking for a "NSF-PW" (National Sanitation Foundation - Potable Water) or one of a number of other more obscure codes indicating suitability for potable water service.

If it can also handle gas, I don't care, in water service. In gas service, I care that it can handle gas, and is suitably rated for that service, and I don't care what the water ratings (if any) are. The only place I might care about both would be my spare parts collection, where one valve could fix either type of service, if suitably rated for both.

If it makes you happier, paint the handle blue, or red, or whatever color you expect it to be.


A lot of radiators on hot water heat systems, if not, should have what is called a coin vent. These are located at the high points of each radiator. If you do not have these, you need to have them installed. Otherwise you will not remove all the air in the lines and will always have noise in your piping and it will cut down on the efficiency of the unit.


Does getting live/neutral the right way round actually matter?

Not for many appliances, but for some that are sensitive it could cause problems.


Yes, you can skim coat the plywood.  Use an oil based primer first, then instead of topping compound use setting type compound aka "hot mud", the type of compound that uses plaster of paris.  This type of mud is stronger and adheres better than premixed topping compound.  You will mix it a bit watery, like thick paint, and can put it on with a roller, then use a squeegee to level it off.  I did this over wooden paneling, and it worked pretty well.  It will probably take a couple of coats to level out everything, especially at the joints.


Is this smoke detector safely connected?

This is a Firex 4618, interconnected smoke alarm with backup battery. Here is the manual which explains Green Light means its operating on A/C (hardwired) power.  Otherwise, its running off the backup battery.  It can run on the backup for several years like a battery operated smoke alarm, but the manual states a standard battery should last for 1 year, then when it drops under voltage it will chirp at you.

The black wire (hot) can be connected to a black wire up in the box to run on A/C power again.  Often it can pop off especially if someone removed the smoke detector that strained the wires.  Those stranded core wires and cheap wire nuts that come with the smoke detector often don't result in a very strong connection.

The fix is to first switch off the power.  Hard wired smoke alarms usually share the lighting circuit.  Then you can reconnect the black wire on the pigtail to the black wire in the box.  When you power it back on, there will be a green light like the others.


UK Building Regulations: which document is regulation 3 in?

I can't find regulation 3.

Follow this trail from http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/buildingregulations/

Building Policy and Legislation
Current Legislation
Building Regulations
Building Regs Legislation 2010
The Building Regulations 2010 (SI 2010/2214)
Part 2,
3. Meaning of Building Work

Which leads you to The Building Regulations 2010, No. 2214, PART 2, Regulation 3

Meaning of building work
  3.—(1) In these Regulations “building work” means—
       (a) the erection or extension of a building;
       (b) the provision or extension of a controlled service or fitting in
           or in connection with a building;
       (c) the material alteration of a building, or a controlled service or
           fitting, as mentioned in paragraph (2);
       (d) work required by regulation 6 (requirements relating to material
           change of use);
       (e) the insertion of insulating material into the cavity wall of a
           building;
       (f) work involving the underpinning of a building;
       (g) work required by regulation 22 (requirements relating to a change
           of energy status);
       (h) work required by regulation 23 (requirements relating to thermal
           elements);
       (i) work required by regulation 28 (consequential improvements to
           energy performance).
    (2) An alteration is material for the purposes of these Regulations if
        the work, or any part of it, would at any stage result—
       (a) in a building or controlled service or fitting not complying with
           a relevant requirement where previously it did; or
       (b) in a building or controlled service or fitting which before the
           work commenced did not comply with a relevant requirement, being
           more unsatisfactory in relation to such a requirement.
    (3) In paragraph (2) “relevant requirement” means any of the following
        applicable requirements of Schedule 1, namely—
           Part A (structure)
           paragraph B1 (means of warning and escape)
           paragraph B3 (internal fire spread—structure)
           paragraph B4 (external fire spread)
           paragraph B5 (access and facilities for the fire service)
           Part M (access to and use of buildings).


Is water vapour on light switch a fire hazard?

Water/ alcohol would be more of an electrocution or shock issue than a fire issue.
Alcohol is flammable yes but depending on the concentration there’s probably more water, and water with impurities can make a conductor and shock you with contact being made on only 1 conductor , so I don’t see it as a possible fire hazard but as a possible shock hazard in reality. I spray any cleaner / sanitizer on a wipe then clean the device as the electronics are not sealed and it is possible to get enough moisture in the switch to get shocked.


Furace fuse blows when Aprilaire humdifier is turned on above 35%

The solenoid shouldn't blow the fuse, unless there is a short in it. It's not like a motor that has high locked rotor current, which could blow a fuse if the rotor was frozen. If the coil of a solenoid energizes, it doesn't matter if the plunger moves or not (electrically speaking).

I'd check the resistance of the coil, versus the specifications for the solenoid. This should tell you if there is a short.  Depending on the price of a new solenoid, I might just replace it if it's in as bad a shape as you describe.

The other thing to check, would be the humidistat.

I'm not sure why you'd see a fuse blow at one humidity level, and not another. I'm guessing the unit didn't kick on until it was set above 35%, so the problem may or may not depend on the setting.


If the wire is completely disconnected from the panel, and you've confirmed with appropriate testers that there is no voltage running through it, the line is safe.  You can cut it back as much or as little as you like.

I'd suggest that you cut it back on both ends - so that it cannot reach the panel and be hooked up again in the future by someone else who doesn't know better.


To answer your question, yes, connect the hot leads to the hot #12 and the white leads to the white #12 neutral, wiring all the led lights in parallel. You can group or pigtail them.
You need to check the load in the bedroom to make sure you don't overload the circuit but led lights have such low wattage my guess is you'll be ok.

Where did you buy the chandelier, online? Is it approved for use in the area you live in?


Running cables for a home theater: inside walls and ceilings or on the surface?

This problem is most easily addressed by surface mount wireway. Rather than run exposed cables, you attach a fairly innocuous plastic or metal rectangular cross section wireway/duct/conduit that carries the cables across the ceiling and/or wall in a less obtrusive way than putting them out in the open, but which does not require major surgery to the building to install them. While you evidently don't like the ones you have seen so far, there are many options at many quality and appearance levels, so there may be hope that you can find one you like. Or get all 1970's retro and attach some hollow fake beams to the ceiling.
Where more convenient, there are also similar products made to go on the floor, typically with small ramps on either side so they are less of a tripping hazard.
Adding some sizable crown molding all around would be another approach to create hidden surface wire space along the edges of the ceiling, if that suits your taste better.


Green rust on water heater discharge pipe, what cause it?

Copper oxides = Green "rust"
Water causes that, can be aggravated by failure to clean acid flux from soldered fittings, but since yours starts right up by the threads I'd guess you have some "weeping" out the valve and the threads are none too watertight (sloppy workmanship - "just a drain, no need for it to hold water, never going to be used anyway...")
Weeping can be caused by a failing valve, or by a lack of expansion tank combined with a check valve or thing that acts like a check valve (such as a pressure reducing valve or PRV) causing the pressure to rise when the tank is full of cold water, no water is used, and the cold water in the tank is heated and expands.
At 20 years old, have you changed the anode and flushed the bottom regularly, or just let it sit?  You might be reaching end of life, if you have not maintained it. The oxides on the drain line don't indicate one way or the other on that, really, but it's worth thinking about anyway.


Is graphite lubricant safe for metal parts?

While I am not a chemist, this goes against anything I understand about carbon and its common chemical forms. In the crystalline diamond form, carbon is extremely hard and quite useful as an abrasive. However, in the form of graphite, carbon lies in sheets that are very loosely bonded to each other. These sheets can easily slide against each other under shear stresses because of the very weak bonds, so graphite forms an excellent lubricant.

I would suggest your source is incorrect.


What should I do about an electrical service panel that is next to the gas service meter?

I would contend that the gas meter was installed in the wrong place.  It clearly was installed long after the house was built and the original electrical panel installed. I would first ask the gas utility to move their mater. I would state that a 'home inspection' found the situation a hazard and are now asking to have the gas meter moved out of safety concerns. In fact, 'my' home owners insurance may become void without reparations.  It doesn't hurt to try.  They certainly have more resources to make this kind of a change than you do; not to mention the fact that they are the ones that put the meter is a hazardous and non-code compliant location. If you wanted to get hard nosed about it, I am  sure you could find a lawyer who would love to help.


Can I use a 60A circuit for both a cooktop and oven?

That 8/3's overbreakered no matter what
The 8AWG copper you have in your walls is rated for 40A at 60°C or 50A at 75°C as per Table 310.16, so you'll have to swap that 60A breaker out for a 40A (NM cable) or 50A (armored cable, SE cable, wires in conduit) no matter what else you do.
40A is adequate for most ranges though
However, due to the Table 220.55 range load demand factors, which also apply to a separate cooktop and oven on a single circuit, 40A is adequate for the vast majority of range setups, and even those that don't fit on 40A have no trouble with a 50A circuit, unless you have a very large cooktop.  In particular, a 12kW nameplate range load only is treated as 8kW of actual load for circuit sizing purposes, and every additional kW or major fraction thereof adds 5% to that 8kW.  So, knowing that a 40A circuit gives us 9.6kW and that ranges are not treated as continuous loads by the NEC, we get 10% over 12kW, or a 13.2kW maximum range load on a 40A circuit.  Going up to 50A gives us 12kW, which translates into a 14.4kW maximum range load.


Blower fan doesn't work in cool/auto or on modes

If you want anything close to an accurate answer. You're going to have to tell us a bit more about the wiring between the thermostat and the furnace, or include some photos of the wiring. And include make, and model numbers for all the equipment involved.

Most furnaces manage the blower themselves during a heat call, i.e. the thermostat simply energizes the W wire. Some also manage it during a cool call, but not all do. So when calling for cooling, the thermostat usually energizes both Y for cooling, and G to turn on the blower.

Since you say the blower doesn't come on for cool calls, or when the fan switch is moved to the ON position. That points to a problem with the "fan circuit". Between the thermostat and the furnace, there should be a wire (usually green) connected to the G terminals of both devices.  When this wire is energized, it tells the furnace to start the blower.  Some furnaces have an on/off delay, so the blower may not come on immediately. On some units, this delay is adjustable.

Since you haven't told us the make and model of any of the equipment, there's no way to be specific about what happens in your furnace. Some furnace control boards have terminals for HEAT, COOL, and FAN. While others may only have HEAT, and/or FAN.  The motor speed wires are connected to these terminals, to allow the furnace to run the blower in different speeds depending on the situation.

The first thing I would do, is test for voltage between the grounded ("neutral") and the COOL terminal on the board, during a cool call.  If you measure about 120 volts (line voltage), that means the board is energizing the terminal to turn on the blower. This means there's a problem between the board and the motor, or with the motor itself.  If the terminal is not energized, then you'll have to start moving "back" through the circuit.

If the furnace is signalling for the blower to turn on, but the blower is not starting. You could try connecting a different speed wire to the terminal. Since the blower works for heat, you might try putting the wire that's on the HEAT terminal on the COOL terminal. If the blower fires up, you know it's a problem with the motor. WARNING: Don't run the system this way for long, you're just checking to see if the blower starts.

If the furnace is not signalling for the blower to turn on (no power to COOL terminal), then you'll want to start by making sure the thermostat call is reaching the furnace. Disconnect the wire connected to the Y terminal, and set the thermostat so it's calling for cool. Measure voltage between C (or the common side of the transformer), and the wire that was connected to Y. You should get about 24 volts AC. If you don't there's a problem with the thermostat, or the wire between the thermostat and furnace. If you do, then the problem likely lies within the control board.

Without more details about the system, it's impossible to offer any more specific advice. It's possible that there's an open limit, which is preventing the blower from turning on. However, without a schematic, there's no way to know if there are any limits that might be involved.


How can I reduce or eliminate flaking from a limestone basement?

Solution to painted areas - wait for them to flake off, or else wirebrush them with a sufficiently coarse wirebrush to remove the paint. Once they have all flaked off or been removed, insulate the exterior of the foundation to below your local frostline (MN, probably deep) with either spray closed-cell polyurethane or a combination of that and rigid XPS sheets, to minimize the freeze/thaw cycles the stone is subjected to (and save some money on heating, too.) As suggested in my comment, seasonal freeze/thaw cycles are probably to blame for the flaking. Salt (wicking in and drying in place) may be another culprit.

GSA on Limestone: Characteristics, Uses And Problems


If the current wires are individual wires in conduit, you could pull a new wire or wires to give four wires of the correct size.

But if the wires are in a cable then unless the instructions with the oven explicitly state how you are to connect this oven to the type of electric supply you have described, it seems to me that you cannot connect this new oven to the old wires.

The old cable with B, W and bare copper is for an appliance requiring only 240 V carried by two hots--B and W. The bare copper is to protect against a fault and does not carry current in normal operation.

The presence of the four wires in the new oven suggests that it requires 240 V and 120 V. The 240 V is between the B and the R, as the two hots. The 120 V is between the W (neutral) and one of the two hots. The W neutral is not "hot" but it will carry current in normal operation.

You will have to remove the old cable and replace it with a 4-wire cable of the correct size.

EDIT

If the current wires are individual wires in conduit, then you can pull another insulated wire (you'd use red) of the correct size for this new oven.

And if the current wiring were in a cable but with three insulated wires in one cable (B, W, R), then you could use the existing cable and add a bare copper wire as a ground for a fault condition, but with only two insulated wires you would need to add another insulated wire which would carry current in normal operation. All the wires which carry current in normal operation must be in the same cable or in the same conduit.


Can I vent my dryer into the crawl space without creating mold and moisture problems?

Vented air from the dryer is full of moisture since it contains water from the clothing being dried. Do not vent it into your crawlspace or basement since you will definitely have moisture problems. After you vent it outside, run the dryer and put your hand over the vent and you will see what I mean.


It's old but it's new again.  A lot of people here in the US are putting in antennas to receive broadcast television, getting rid of cable TV and watching what's available online, supplemented by local broadcasts.

A signal strength meter would be the right tool for the job, but it's an expensive tester for one time use.

Best thing to do would be to set up your antenna - even a temporary antenna - and connect a small TV directly to the antenna, and do a channel scan.  Then take the TV around to each outlet and repeat the channel scan, and compare the results.

(If there's at least temporary power in the home for the builders at this point you can use a long extension cord, if not maybe you can get your hands on a UPS battery backup.)

If you get all your channels at all your outlets, you should be in good shape.

Usually RF coax cabling either works fine or fails miserably, so most (but not all) faults are easy to find.


They must stay. They are structural and the small amount of compression in that small space will not affect the performance of the insulation as much as a receptacle or light switch.


Considering the age of the pipe and the odds of it being so rusted inside as to be nearly useless, I would consider now a good time to improve the drain! I would first look at what I had to cut the pipe, rather than try to fight it loose! One easy step is to grind it off if no other metal cutting tools are available. Then I would start building back with materials meant for drains. Cast iron was once common but newer builds will be plastic of various types which do not rust and clog so easily.
This drain is a real bear to deal with.
When you have a bear trapped in the cabin, it is often best to just shoot it!


Yet another Electrical Sub Panel Bonding for A Condominium

You have a 4-wire feed

You actually do have a separate ground wire, even though you can't see it.  It's the metal pipe the wires run in.

Commercial scale buildings like that usually use conduit for feeder. And 1985 is before PVC came into vogue.  So almost certainly, this conduit is metal and non-flexible, and is the valid and proper grounding path.  I have four large buildings with not one green or bare wire anywhere in the complex.

Still unclear on if this is a main or sub panel

You need to check with the condo association about where exactly your neutral-ground bond occurs.  If there is a main breaker down in a utility room somewhere, it is assuredly there.  But you have to ask.


The filter is only one aspect of an over heating furnace. The diagnosis is as simple as taking its temperature. Get a digital meat thermometer. Take the temperature at the inlet and the outlet of the furnace. All furnaces will have their minimum and maximum heat rise listed on the name plate. In leu of that number 50 degrees is a good middle ground. Subtract the inlet temperature from the outlet temperature. If it is within the specified range you are good. If it is really high like above 150 degrees you are likely tripping the high limit and need more air flow. Open all registers, remove the filter and put the fan to high speed. If the heat seems good and you have an analog thermostat it could be the heat anticipator is not set correctly. Analog thermostats have a small wire or coil of wire mounted near the mercury bulb or the bimetallic spring. It heats up a little to shut the heat off about a quarter to a half degree before the set point so it can glide to a stop. If it is set incorrectly it can shut off several degrees early. With the limited information you have provided those two suggestions are most likely but there could be any number of causes.


How well does masonry blocks used in European home construction insulate compared to a well insulated American (wood) wall?

Insulation value of masonry walls vs wood-frame walls

You should be able to find guidance. For example Scottish Guidance, UK Guidance

In the UK, I believe regulations specify maximum U-values

  U-values are measured in watts per square metre per degree Kelvin (W/m²K).
  So for example, if we consider a double glazed window with a U-value of 2.8, for every degree difference in temperature between the inside and outside of the window, 2.8 watts will be transmitted every square meter.

  A range of possible U-values are indicated below for the purposes of comparison:

Solid brick wall                2.0
Cavity wall with no insulation  1.5
Insulated wall                  0.3
Insulated roof                  0.2
Single glazing                  4.8
Double glazing                  2.8
Low e double glazing            2
Triple glazing                  1.5
Floor                           0.2

  Part L of the Building Regulations (Conservation of fuel and power) now prevents certain forms of construction by setting limiting standards (ie maximum U-values) for building elements.

More detailed advice on construction suggests various combinations of materials to meet U-value regulations.

So, if regulations in France were comparable to those in the UK you might need evidence that your constructed wall will have a U-value less than 0.28 W/m²K and that the overall building's U-values still meet regulations.

In France, I imagine your best bet is to find similar French specifications or EU specifications.

Some notes about U-values, R-Values etc

I have a small "Architects Pocket Book" ISBN 978-0-7506-8617-4 which contains all sorts of strange and wonderful information, including the following:

Thermal Conductivity (K Value)
The heat (W) transmitted through unit area (m²) of a material of unit thickness (m) for unit temperature difference (K) between inside and outside environments, expressed as W/mK

Thermal resistivity (R-value)
The reciprocal of thermal conductivity. i.e. mK/W. It measures how well a material resists the flow of heat by conduction.

Thermal resistance (R-value)
This measures how well a particular thickness of material resists the passage of heat by conduction, calculated from the R-value in units of m²K/W

Thermal transmittance (U-value)
The reciprocal of thermal resistance. i.e. W/m²K. This measures the amount of heat transmitted per unit area of a particular thickness per unit temperature difference between inside and outside environments.

U = 1 / (Rsi + Rso +Ra + R1 + R2 + R3 ... )

Where

Rsi = thermal resistance of internal surface.
Rso = thermal resistance of external surface.
Ra = thermal resistance of air spaces within construction.
R1 = thermal resistance of successive components.

Note that for wood frame construction I understand you have to average the U-values for the parts whose cross-section is all wood (where the wooden structural members are) and parts which contain voids or insulation-filled spaces. I assume this has to be an appropriately weighted average (by area of each type of cross-section).


That is a “top hat” rail for attaching Sheetrock. You can see the screw in the pic there should be more. Top hat may be a trade name. But that’s what we called them. Kinda like a metal stud but not as big.


Can you replace a shower handle without replacing the valve?

It depends on what valve you have. What you're looking for is called a shower trim kit. When homes are built and the plumbing is done the shower valve is installed. Later the customer/homeowner picks out a trim kit which is the plate, handle and shower head. Depending on what valve you have there may be a good selection of trim kits or none at all. There is a bit of savings with the trim kit because you're not paying for a valve.


Does my bathroom addition require breaking the concrete?

I believe you are trying to cram to much in too little of space. The best option is to break the floor, and repair it, it will save you the "step up" you are creating with the 2X4 sleepers on the slab.

You may be able to find a plumber or perhaps DIY the cutting of the stack and tying in a line to the toilet that flushes through the wall. They are out there but it looks like your soil stack is too tight in the corner. You need to find a way to get the soil pipe out of the wall at the 15" mark. Code requires 30" for the area a toilet sets in, 15" is the center line of that space.

Actually the info I just gave will be wrong to a degree. You will need a vent for the new toilet and it will most likely be illegal to tie it into a line that directly serves another toilet with out another branch coming off of the main to serve the new toilet.


There is no way to determine with certainty whether it is safe and proper.

Commercial fixtures that are UL approved are inspected and tested to ensure safe, and they are evaluated against the Code to determine proper.

A home brewed fixture may be fine, and may even be far beyond the minimum standards for safe, but without an objective review, there is no way to determine.

Generally fixtures need to be affixed to the box using the built in attachment points, and wires need to be contained within the box or within the fixture itself (that has been evaluated to ensure safety). There also needs to be no way that live wires are accessible or that exposed metal parts are energized.

In general, the Code does not permit a fixture to be used in a manner other than that for which it was designed. By changing the electrical connection mechanism, you are not using it in the manner for which it was designed. So you are probably outside Code.

That does not mean it will not work, or that it is not safe, only that no one can give you assurance from a distance that it is safe and proper.


If a Drill's Clutch doesn't properly align the gears, can it cause the Chuck to loosen?

That was a close one! I would surmise from your description ("The drill's chuck isn't keyless, or at least I haven't tightened it without the key") is the cause of the spitting drill chuck. I too am guilty of being in a hurry and trying to save every second and bypass the chuck wrench. The other issue may have been caused if your drill has a High and a Low speed setting. If the lever is placed in between the two speeds the gears (as you have mentioned) may not mesh. The resulting grinding sound is not a pleasant one. I've had a similar scenario using a DeWalt 18V Cordless Hammer drill.


Why do the burners on my stove turn on and off while in use?

The "burners" on an electric range have TWO settings - off and on. There is no in between. So they turn on and off to maintain a goal.

With the burner set to high, normally they stay on almost all the time, heating the pot on top of it to boil water. With the heat control set to an intermediate value, the burner will kick on and off repeatedly to maintain a goal temperature. However, if you leave a pot off of the burner, they will overheat if they stay on permanently. The temperature sensor recognizes this fact, and that there is no need to leave the burner on.

All of this is different for a gas range, where it is the amount of gas that is fed to the burner to control the heat.

Note that an electric range will cook more slowly than a gas range. So you may think the stove is not working properly, when it actually is working as it is designed. One other important point - a smooth top range like this cooks most efficiently with flat bottomed pots. You need good contact over the bottoms to get good heat transfer, and good heat transfer is essential for cooking. Check this fact by taking one of your pots and hold a ruler across the diameter (underneath the pot). Or take the pot and touch the edge of your counter top. Sight along that straight edge. Most pots tend to have a bit of a dish to them, so the center of the pot may stand off by as much as 1/4 inch. Those pots will perform poorly. (Sorry, but they will.)

That concave pot bottom is fine for a gas range. But it will hurt you with a smooth top electric range.


Can multiple grounding electrode conductors be placed on the same ground lug?

That lug can’t be double-tapped.
Large wires can generally never be double tapped.
Check the labeling on your panel for the list of sizes allowed for double or triple tapping on which lugs. Don’t expect wires larger than #10 to be permitted.
You must obey panel labeling and instructions NEC 110.3B.
If your wire can’t reach, feel free to use the vacant screw hole just to the right of the main lugs to mount a lug e.g. a double lug.  Electrical supply houses stock those.  It is probably a #10-32 screw.
You can also drill your own holes, but must be -32 thread pitch or finer. Nobody ever got fired for using 10-32.


Why don't heat pumps run for a bit BEFORE starting the air circulation fan?

I don't think the problem you're having would be solved by a fan delay.  When the fan turns on, it has to purge all the "cold" air from the ducts, before the warm air reaches the registers.  There's not much that can be done to solve that problem, other than having really short duct runs.

If you did add a delay, the system would likely overheat.  This could cause a bunch of problems, as well as reducing efficiency.

If you did want to add a delay. It would require a thermocouple and relay, or a time delay relay.  I doubt your furnace has any firmware, unless it's a super fancy custom system.


Old light switch wiring question not using black wires?

The metal box appears to be grounded, so the switch can acquire ground via the mounting screws.  (this doesn't work for receptacles).
Here is the crux of how a 3-way circuit works.

Note that your light is probably shifted to the left, i.e. in between the power supply and the first switch.
3-way switches have 2 travelers (on brass screws) and 1 common wire (on black screw).  3-way cables contain 2 travelers and 1 other wire; the function and color of the other wire varies and can be anything.
When it comes to 3-way circuits, identify the travelers (the ones on the brass screws; also in the same cable) and wrap them (both) with yellow tape to re-mark them. This will save you a great deal of time and trouble.
The two yellow-marked travelers will be on the brass screws.
As to why the white is being used as a hot, this appears to be  a "switch loop" which is 3-way.  The /2 cable carries always-hot (on the white by law) and the switched hot.  The /3 cable carries 2 travelers and the switched hot.


There's usually a removable stop or jamb component that would allow you to lift the doors off the track. You may also need to remove a channel or rod to allow the doors to be swung outward at the bottom.

Then you'd make adjustments to the bracket length using the screws you can see there. Modern hardware has more convenient means of adjustment.


I'd say your hunch is correct.

Look at the plumbing.

If you'd like more help, provide more information.


Filling hollow blocks one level at a time

What's the phrase? "The perfect is the enemy of the good."

Or something like that?

Is it better to pour them in one go? Sure. Is it enough better to make it worth a huge effort? Perhaps not, particularly if that's the way it's usually done by your laborers. The less time between pours, the better (i.e. one per day is far better than getting to it a month later.)

I would strongly encourage having "bond beams" (horizontal reinforcement) as well as vertical reinforcement. Depending on just how expensive concrete is in your area, it might be worth doing the reinforcement as a "post and beam" rather than filling every core hole. That does require blocking off the bottom of each bond beam where it runs over empty cores below. It gets you a strong framework with less material.


What cable size do I need to feed a 100 amp sub panel that is 550 ft

This application has "transformers" written all over it.  A big factor in AC vs DC power (Tesla vs Edison) being the ability to haul it long distances.  And this right here is where that comes into play.

In every single scenario, your barn needs its own earth grounding system.

Plan 1: Conventional sub-panel (as discussed elsewhere)

Wire cost: $4000.  (about a 25% margin over the best prices I can find).

That plan only makes sense if money is no object and the goal is to stay "DIY friendly".  But it still won't be, because of the miserable pulls with huge wire (unless you upsize conduit to about 4", not least, because the bends are wider radius.)  The only benefit to all this is avoiding transformers. Since this scenario is well covered by other answers, I'll won't elaborate.

Plan 2: Use a transformer to make the barn a main panel.

Wire cost: $2000.  Transformer cost: $900

You only need 2 of the huge 350kcmil wires.  You feed them with 240V and they go to the primary side of a 25kva transformer.  The transformer removes the need to run a "ground" and "neutral" wire (but the primary and secondary sides are different).  Your barn is now a main panel.  L1, neutral and L2 come off the secondary of the transformer.  The transformer and the barn panel are grounded to the barn's grounding system.

You may be able to reduce the size of the wires somewhat, because the transformer has "taps" to compensate for voltage drop.

Plan 3: Also pump up the voltage for the long run.

Wire cost: $300.  Really.   Transformer cost: $1800

This takes two 4-AWG (maybe 6) AL wires. Instead of one 25KVA transformer, you get two -- with a higher voltage primary, within the rating of the cable you plan to run. So if the cable rating is 600V (most likely), get 480, 575 or 600V transformers (those last two are a thing in Canada).  These voltages are serious, but still within the range of common panels and wire.  Call an electrician for the final review, megging and hookup of the higher voltage stuff.

You backfeed the secondary of one transformer with 240V from your panel. The primary feeds your long conduit run to the other transformer's primary, which knocks it down to 240V on the secondary.  As above, the barn panel is a main panel which gets L1, neutral and L2 from its transformer, and ground from the barn's grounding system.

Plan 4: Tie into the high voltage supply

Wire and transformer cost: ???? depending on voltage rating and delivery.

The power company transports power across farmland at a much higher voltage like 600V or 2400V, and then have a transformer at your house to knock it down to 240/120V.  I imagine you've already talked to the power company and asked them the cost of wheeling their high-voltage to your barn and provisioning their transformer and meter, and didn't care for the answer.

I am saying, see if it is feasible to buy their power on the high side of their transformer, and take responsibility for the pole line, underground, transformer etc. It's sorta like "rent the cable modem or buy one". Used transformers can be had.  Of course touching their high-voltage is electrician territory, but you can do all the grunt work, so he megs a few things out, connects 2 wires and throws the switch. There's no reason to pay an electrician to trench conduit or punch holes in walls.


Refrigerator fail due to adjacent chest freezer

Total, utter, male-bovine-derived-organic-fertilizer.

The cabinet isn't helping it cool any (and is almost certainly less ventilation space than the manufacturer requires), but the freezer really can't have much effect, being on the other side of the cabinet.

The stove on the other side gets far hotter than the outside of the freezer does - so why wasn't that blamed? Presumably because you added the chest freezer to an extant rental kitchen, and the landlord wants to stick you for price of the new refrigerator?

You are not, however, doing your chest freezer any favors if it was right next to the wood - most chest freezers have the coils running under the skin and also have a manufacturer-recommended minimum ventilation space around them.


Is the combination switch and outlet circuit in my 1970s home ok?

Every wire is there for a purpose and there are no extra wires.

It seems like a ball of yarn because wiring is like that.   What helps a great deal is color-coding the wires by function.   As an example, I prefer

white for neutral (well, that's mandatory)
black for always-hot, circuit 1 (usually the only circuit)
red for switched-hot (between switch and lamp)
blue for alt-switched-hot (second lamp)
yellow for the two 3-way switch travelers (the ones on the brass screws) - there is no need to distinguish them from each other

Get a 5-pack of colored tape and apply that by wrapping the appropriate wires.  Yarn no more.


Plywood repair - subfloor prepartion - subfloor leveling

Cut out the missing sections to match pre cut patches that span joist to joist.

Assuming 16" centers patching a 10"x10" hole.

Cut a piece of 5/8 ply 16x10
Place it over the hole covering half of each joist and fully covering the hole.
Pencil your impression.
Set saw depth to a "light" 5/8" and carefully plunge cut the lines, remove any screws or nails first. A magnet helps to find them if they are buried or filled with debris. (I always pass a magnet over for cuts like this)
Use a prybar to pop up the section and chisel anything else in the way.You can also scab in a scrap along the underside of the floor under lapping the patch.
Glue and screw your repair peice in.

Edit

It's not a ton of work but I do understand your question better now. It would be a bit much to correct just a single lamination from the ply missing. You can simply use a putty type of wood filler. Or anything to prevent the laminate from dipping. I've seen guys use construction adhesive like PL to repair small defects in the subfloor. It's messy and doesn't spread very well, but if they are using a tube elsewhere they often try to use it up as it's a pain to reopen for additional uses.

Second edit

The picture shown probably wouldn't need to be repaired but it doesn't hurt to fill it.


Adding an outlet to a light switch, just want to make sure I have the right idea

All the bare safety ground wires in your box should connect together. It is not sufficient to take the ground from one romex and connect that to the switch and another one from another romex bundle to the outlet. It is best to tie them together at the back of the box with a good quality wire nut and have pigtails that come out to each unit.

The method to join into the existing white wires will be to use a short piece of white insulated wire that is stripped on each end (pig tail). One end will attach to the existing white wires with a wire nut and the other end to your outlet.

For the black wire remove one end of it from the switch. Then attach two pigtail lengths of black wires to it with a wire nut and push that to the back of the box. One pigtail goes to the switch and the other to your outlet.

To get the stray bits of wire for the pigtails you can either open up a length of surplus romex cable and pull out the individual wires from there OR you can visit a decent hardware store where they very often will sell individual wires by the foot.


Typical microwave ovens will have multiple micro switches that are designed to provide safe use of the unit. Safe use translates to making sure the door is closed before the unit is able to produce the microwave energy.

The safety feature is normally designed so that the multiple switches have to sequence on/off properly when the when the microwave door is opened and closed. If the switch sequencing fails (broken mechanism, misaligned switches or user attempted defeat of safety feature) the wiring is designed to place a short across the AC power line in the microwave downwind from the fuse. The result is that the fuse blows and prevents operation of the oven in the unsafe mode.

In your case the problem is likely to be one of the other switches has failed or the interlock mechanism that triggers these switches is broken or misaligned.

You may want to reference this older question and additional links therein:

Microwave door interlock switch keeps failing

Pay particular attention to comments regarding OEM replacement switch costs versus buying switches from an electronics supplier.


Another way it to just glue and screw/nail long timber packers over the existing joists (on top of the old flooring). Just follow the old nails/screws.

Rip down some 2" stock exactly the height of the dip. i.e. 1/8" on the first 3/16" on the second and so on until you're putting a 3/4" packer on the last joist.

This assumes the new flooring is suitable for this configuration and is fixed at each joist and not bonded to the subfloor like parquet etc.


garage door usually won't close - even trolley without door won't move much

You did not state the actual model number so I will not be able to answer with model specific information that would be much more detailed and specific to your situation. So you will not be able to do this blind folded.

Since your sensors are working .. good. Some movement of the door is not an indication they are working - that is an indication they are clear to start with. You could have a loose wire or sensor or circuit board inside the senor that when the Door Moves the vibration causes the beam to break! - been there done that.

Why do the lights on my garage door opener flash and my door will not close

How to align safety reversing sensors.

So if those sensors are Truly fine.

Then check your drive gear, it has a set screw or some means of securing it to the drive shaft that screw may have backed out and or is loose. The gear may turn with no load (in other words no belt connected) but might spin free if there is a load - Remove the belt and you can try to grab the drive gear by hand and hold it from turning while the unit runs. Your motor appears to have a gear box and the belt pulley attached - this style pulley if I am not mistaken is a compression style - so it might not have a set screw but rather the way it is secured causes a compressing effect and the pulley grabs the shaft - in short tighten the pulley to the shaft (it is most likely loose) as I said previous Make / Model number / perhaps picture of the name plate .. might have yielded you detailed pictures and specifics to what you have and you might have had it fixed in less than a minute..


Can a 20 amp circuit have a 14 gauge pigtail directly to one receptacle?

National Electrical Code 2008
Article 210 Branch Circuits
II. Branch-Circuit Ratings
210.19 Conductors — Minimum Ampacity and Size.
(A) Branch Circuits Not More Than 600 Volts.
(2) Multioutlet Branch Circuits. Conductors of branch circuits supplying more than one receptacle for cord-and-plug connected portable loads shall have an ampacity of not less than the rating of the branch circuit.

Which means in your case, you'll have to use 12 AWG conductors for attaching the receptacle.
note: A duplex receptacle actually counts as two receptacles according to NEC
However, there are situation were 14 AWG conductors can be used on a 20 ampere circuit.

(4) Other Loads. Branch-circuit conductors that supply loads other than those specified in 210.2 and other than cooking appliances as covered in 210.19(A)(3) shall have an ampacity sufficient for the loads served and shall not be smaller than 14 AWG.
Exception No. 1: Tap conductors shall have an ampacity sufficient for the load served. In addition, they shall have an ampacity of not less than 15 for circuits rated less than 40 amperes and not less than 20 for circuits rated at 40 or 50 amperes and only where these tap conductors supply any of the following loads:
(a) Individual lampholders or luminaires with taps extending not longer than 450 mm (18 in.) beyond any portion of the lampholder or luminaire.
(b) A luminaire having tap conductors as provided in 410.117.
(c) Individual outlets, other than receptacle outlets, with taps not over 450 mm (18 in.) long.
(d) Infrared lamp industrial heating appliances.
(e) Nonheating leads of deicing and snow-melting cables and mats.

Check the Device

Click for larger view

Push in #14 CU solid wire for 15A branch circuit only.
Installation Screw Terminal > #14 - #12 AWG CU Wire Only.

Notice on the back of this 125V 15A duplex receptacle, it states that you can use 14 AWG or 12 AWG copper wire when terminating at the screw terminals, but that 14 AWG copper must be used when terminating at the push in terminals. It also says that if you're using the push in terminal, and 14 AWG copper, it can only be used on a 15 ampere circuit. If you're installing this on a 20 ampere circuit, with 12 AWG wire, you'll have to use the screw terminals.


Looped air conditioner condensate line not draining?

All of the Mini split systems I have Installed specify no loop of any kind even after a 8’ drop to the ground there needs to be a consistent down slope. On split with an air handler a loop is still the wrong thing a “p” trap or “u” bend are the proper method to allow water out and no sewer gasses in a loop traps air and will not drain. Since you said draining on the wall if the drain exits the house and drains on the ground no loop is needed. If it drains into a sewer drain then a trap is needed but this may be problematic see the manufacturers install instructions for proper setup.


What is the proper way to bring this wire up to code and add an outlet?

The correct answer is:  look up the code in your area.  In some parts of the USA you can't get insurance on your house unless a licenced electrician does the work  -- quite possibly with a construction permit!

If there is no code, then as a minimum I would:

1) get a hammer drill and make a proper sub-ground hole in the foundation large enough for a conduit (personally I'd use 3/4 PVC or similar).

0) Dig your trench and expose the foundation where you want to route the wiring.

2) install the conduit and pull the wiring - make sure the gauge is sufficient for your end needs.

3) seal the conduit where it goes thru the foundation using hydraulic cement.

(yes, you OCD-ers, I know I wrote them in the wrong order)


How can I reduce sheen with touched-up wall paint?

My 2 cents...

I had the same issue and the painter told me the best course of action was to paint that one entire wall.

His reasoning was he could get the color very close, but never perfect and there was a good chance my eye would see the touch up.  Doing the entire wall fakes your eye into seeing the color as a whole.  In my house, my eye can't tell the difference so it was worth the money.

Caveat:  Obviously you can't paint one side flat the other gloss, etc.


Can I use a 50 Hz device in a 60 Hz power frequency?

The 60 Hz represents the frequency at which the voltage in the wire oscillates. Heating elements don't care about this, and neither do most electronic components as they turn this alternating current (AC) into constant (DC) direct current anyway.

If this is an all-singing, all-dancing, computer controlled extra-fancy espresso machine then I'd steer clear, though, as there's a remote chance you've one of the few devices where the cycles-per-second makes a difference. If it just uses power to heat an element you should be fine.

Disclaimer: operating the device outside of the region it's designed for will certainly void the warranty, and coffee in excess isn't good for you anyway.


Existing outlet, metal junction boxes, new circuits, and ground

You indicate that the "A" circuit just passes through that existing box at the top left and that you're adding a new box right next to it.
Assuming there's enough cable in that box, extend it to the new box and splice to your new cable run to the new box there. Do not connect any circuit A wiring in that box except to pass it through to a new piece of cable that carries on to the "A" box.
A better alternative, especially since you're already planning on installing a new box right there, is to use that existing box as the junction between the existing wiring and the new wiring and put a blank plate over it. Use the new box as the outlet box for the new circuit. This way there is no confusion whatsoever about how to wire and (for the future maintainer, maybe future you) there's no confusion about why wires are just passing through and, more importantly, no danger from having 2 circuits in one box and needing to remember to turn them both off for safe working in the box.
Also, I believe there's something code related about having a single outlet on a circuit (your A circuit), but I don't recall if it's a 15 or 20a breaker that has issues, so I'll leave that to the licensed electricians.


Why isn't my telephone socket working fully after installation?

So this ADSL/VDSL ?

The outlet you're using is an RJ11 ?

By the sounds of it you have too many wires coming for most mechs, Krone can take up to 4 due to double punching and 2 terminals but most can't.

Test your speed at the ISP demarcation point. Just because the 'main' socket has the most cables going to it doesn't actually mean it is the closest socket to your lead in cable. It is quite possible one of these other 'extension' sockets is actually the first outlet and you potentially have cable issues from to the 'main'.


First you need to identify if the problem is in the bulb or the fixture. Swap the bulb to another fixture and place a different bulb in this fixture. If the bulb is the problem, replace it.

If the fixture is the problem, I'd start by checking the voltage in the fixture when there's a problem. Then check the voltage at the switch. There could be an arcing wire resulting in the low voltage, and creating a fire risk that you'll want to resolve quickly.

It's also possible that a thermal protection switch inside the fixture is activating and starting to cut power to the light. If that's the issue, and there isn't a problem like insulation covering the fixture, then replacing the fixture is likely the easiest fix.


What size GFCI and receptacles on 20A circuit?

If you don't plan on using any 20 ampere cord-and-plug devices, there is no reason to install 20 ampere rated receptacles. Circuits rated for 20 amperes are useful in the home, because they can support more devices. 20 ampere receptacles are often not advantageous, except possibly in a workshop or garage.


Does a device exist that can help find the source of a leak in a flat roof?

An Infrared camera can be used to look for water infiltration and damage. I would not recommended they for DIY use.  They are expensive (low end models $1,000 US) and it takes a lot of training and experience to interpret the results.  There may be a local IR company in your area that can assist.


What type of adhesive do I use to bond metal & glass?

J-B ClearWeld Quick Setting variety says it cures clear and sticks to metal and glass. I have never used this particular J-B product but I have had good results with other products of their line of epoxy.


Is a Wet Spot in The Ceiling From Toilet Plumping?

You are going to have to do some testing.   The first thing to do is assess how likely it is that you could have water in the bathroom from spillage.   If water isn't running into the toilet area - from people showering or washing hands/whatever - then you might as well pull the toilet up.

To pull the toilet you will have a bolt on each side (undo the nuts) and a water supply line (turn off water and disconnect by unscrewing.   Once water is turned off flush the toilet to get rid of as much excess water and then pull it up.

Now you will need to assess what things look like and you may need to provide pictures to us.  There are several reasons a toilet would leak.   The first and easiest thing to do is dump a bunch of whatever down the toilet pipe.   It is highly unlikely that you have a leak there but this is super easy to check.   Do this first.

Next assess how the toilet flange looks and how high it is.   It could simply be that the toilet release is a bit too high and that over time the flange plus wax ring degraded enough to cause a slight gap.   This is most likely your issue.

If the flange is worn, brittle, or cut then replace it.   If the flange is good but too low you will need to replace it with a flange that sits higher.   This is an easy job and just takes a few minutes.

If the flange looks OK height-wise and what fixes 90% of toilet leaks is replacing the wax ring.   Since you have a leak I would suggest an extra thick ring.

(I didn't mention everything but covered what should help 95+% to make it easier - let me know if you have more specifics questions or pictures)


When installing new natural gas plumbing system, can I include multiple capped tees for future branches?

Having extra tees in place will stand out as uncommon but it's not inherently a code violation nor crazy. Inspectors may easily identify differences in workmanship between seasoned professionals and DIY/newbie/apprentices but don't worry about that. "Different" isn't "bad."
One thing you would need to do is oversize the pipe you do install now: having extra ports for addition of future loads is no good if the main pipe isn't sized adequately to support those loads. Knowing nothing about the appliances you have in mind nor the pipe length involved, but having gone through the pipe sizing exercise several times, I can suggest you're most likely going to want that main pipe to be 1". If high-demand appliances like a tankless water heater or large furnace are in the future, or if you find the difference in materials cost to be insignificant, you might choose to use 1-1/4".
An alternative to having a DIY manifold of capped tees is to install a tee where an elbow would ordinarily be used. That gives you a threaded port "for free" to which you could attach something later. In particular, the "something" that gets added later could include another tee so that again there's a spare port for later. The practicality of this depends on the layout of the room and the piping. I mention it only to point out that you may not need to add several tees now -- having just one tee now and remembering to add more later is functionally equal.


Rebuilding the fill valve internals will likely fix your problem.


I would say test again with a good meter.  A meter you don't trust is worse than worthless.  A cat II rated meter technically isn't safe to use in the panel.  More practically, I don't feel junk meters are safe to use period.


What kind of gloves do I need for working around electrical wires?

If the electricity has been turned off, and you have confirmed it's off via a non-contact tester, multi-meter, or some other method, then you don't need gloves to protect yourself from electrocution - there should be no risk if you've actually confirmed it's off. I even go as far as to put a piece of tape over the breaker so someone doesn't walk by and flip it back on.

I sometimes wear gloves to protect my hands from scrapes and cuts - any work glove you find comfortable for the job should work.

As DA01 said in a comment, a glove that would protect you from shock would likely make working with the wire/cable we find in residential difficult. They do however make insulated tools which can be used when working on live gear. Best to just turn the power off and not worry.


What is the name of this plumbing U wedge + connection

I don’t think a seal failure is the issue, that leak seems to be from where that U clamp holds the joint together.

I suggest you need to replace the whole joint so a section of pipe and two joints will be needed.


5500 Watt / 30 amp generator feeding 5000 Watt 20 amp manual transfer switch

From the information you have given out on your last comment "maximum 5000W" the answer would be that you need to replace the transfer switch to match the new generator.

Your old transfer switch (xfrs) has a max rating of 5000W and you new generator actually has a surge wattage of 6875W which is considerably more than the existing xfrs rating. We are not taking into consideration what is connected to your current system. It's a matter of how much the generator can provide. In short you size generators to provider a certain amount of power. You use what's connected to calculate the required size not the other way around.

Good luck


A lot depends on how severe a clog you have:

An extra flush gets it going

You may have a toilet that isn't well designed. A lot of earlier low-water-usage toilets had this problem. But there may be adjustments you can make to the flush mechanism inside the tank to increase the amount of water used for each flush.

Plunger needed, but nothing more

In this case, it is likely a clog "nearby" - e.g., perhaps something clogged the pipes during renovation and has narrowed the pipe a bit. And it could also be a vent problem (though I admit I really don't understand vents myself). But it would not be something "far away" as that would likely affect other fixtures too.

Snake required

If you need a snake to fix the clog then this is much more serious. Could be a vent problem (as I don't totally understand plumbing vents, I can't say more than that) or it could be a drain pipe problem farther down that is "catching" some waste from the toilet when it shouldn't.


Solid wood front door seasonal swelling makes latching deadbolt difficult

The trim sounds like it is a bit snug, when I lived back east I had a similar problem . I adjusted the trim then found in winter it had leaks, I used weather stripping to solve the problem, I had it where it did not stick in summer and a tack strip of weather stripping that sealed to the door in winter worked great, I only lived there for 3 years so I don’t know how well it held up after that but while we were there from the sub 0 temps in winter to the +100 with 100% humidity the door was easy to open and close with both locks.


How to use fiber optics to illuminate glass tiles?

Consider using high intensity LEDs at the edges.  This is how they illuminate light panels in elevators - using some kind of diffusing backing behind it or properly-selected tiles that can be lit from the top or bottom.

The problem with using fiber optics is if they break, you can't service them if they're mortared along with the tile.  Light the tile from the edges and the lighting system can be serviced.


remove the control handle then unscrew the octagonal cover this should reveal the valve top.
take photos and measurements. go to the hardware store and buy as washer kit to rebuild the valve
Now turn ff the water supply (or supplies)
turn the valves on and make sure that the is not a fast stream of water.
now remove the top part of the valves (it unscrews)
screw the control stem into top part of the valve stem in until it come out through the back and replace the O rings.
this is a good time to also replace the washer that controls the water.
lubricate and reassemble using a new fibre washer where the valve body closes.


Can I stack my boxed air conditioning units for storage?

If you have put the units back in the original packing boxes they came in, then it should be fine to stack them. Normally, product boxes will indicate somewhere how high they can be stacked. That information is used by the people at the store and the people packing them on pallets. I would suspect that AC units could be stacked at least 3 high but do look on your boxes for that information.


Can light fixture be installed in attic hatch?

Nothing in NEC section 410 prohibits the placement of a luminaire in or on a door or hatch.  However, you'll want to use a flexible cord pigtail with strain reliefs between a fixed junction box and the movable door as NM cable is not designed for repeated bending.  (Flexible cord is allowed here by 400.7(A)(9), BTW.)


The roller that does that usually looks like it has loop carpet on it.


How should I use the ground wire for this welder?

I have one of these, and I dug out the manual (printed October 1987). It has a sentence that reads: "The center contact in the receptacle is for the grounding connection. A green wire in the input cable connects this contact to the frame of the welder. This ensures proper grounding of the welder frame when the welder plug is connected to the receptacle". So its just a ground, and the existing neutral wire could be used.


What diameter should pipes from boiler to heating the hot water cylinder be

The usual diameter is 22mm in the UK.

Radiators will be 15mm (or microbore which is smaller)


Should I use a roller or a brush for painting exterior walls?

You absolutely want to use a brush for most exterior surfaces, and definitely the siding and trim.  The only time to ever use a roller is on a large flat surface (think drywall, or plywood paneling) -- in the image you provided I might use a roller for the white soffit, but that's it and only if it's a large house.

Aside from avoiding unsightly "orange peel" effect that a roller will undoubtedly case, applying the paint back and forth with a paintbrush will work the paint into the surface of the product in a way that a pass over the top with a roller will not.  This is especially true with wood surfaces, but generally true with most surfaces.  Just imagine being paint on a relatively smooth surface.  Wouldn't it be easier to peel if you were rolled on in one large sheet, than if you were brushed on and worked into the surface with each brushstroke?

Exceptions to the rule, for exterior surfaces are:

Concrete - I roll foundations and cement block with 1" nap roller
"Cedar Shake" siding (think Cape Cod) where I apply the paint with a 1-1.25" nap roller, then backbrush to work it into the siding and catch drips (this is much faster than brushing, and higher quality than spraying)
Large soffits or areas where I'm working over my head for long periods
T111 siding, vertical barn siding, etc, but in all cases I backbrush

Definitely buy a 4" brush for this project.


Is my nearby neighbor's foundation excavation a concern for my home?

This is a common situation and is extremely unlikely to cause significant damage to your house. The biggest risks are (a) that someone is exceptionally sloppy and damages your  services (water/sewer/gas/electric) while digging to install the new services, and (B) vibration might provoke a bit of minor settling and a crack or two in your  plaster.

Disasters aren't impossible, but also aren't worth worrying about until they occur, unless there is something very, very odd about your situation. And if a disaster should occur, the builder's insurance should cover it, if they are at all legitimate.


What are these "split thread" screws for?

Doing a quick image search on Google, it looks like Dan D.’s is correct. “That looks like a decking screw.” It is also referred to as a “terrace screw.”


The best way to secure utility sink legs to concrete floor

Get good light to the area.  Make sure floor is very clean and dry.  Buy one tube of 100% clear silicone caulk with gun. Lift each leg individually, stick the tip of the calk tube under the foot and dispense a liberal dose of the calk product directly between the foot and the floor. Let foot rest in puddle.  Repeat for all four legs.  Do not disturb for 24-hours.


How should I connect my new Fagor wall oven to the existing wiring?

This is a great example of color codes not meaning that much in North American wiring.

Ground color codes are very clear -- ground is always green, green/yellow or bare. Other colors not so much though.

The nameplate on the oven is extremely clear: It is made for North America (60Hz rating, highly relevant to the clock).  It is made for 208-240V, which means aside from ground, it needs two hots. That white wire is a hot, and should be marked with black tape to indicate it as such.   It is not a 120/240V appliance, which means it does not need neutral.

The white wire in your wall is neutral, and is useless for this oven (but useful for most other ovens). Cap it off. I certainly can't tell you to mark it with green tape on both ends and open up your panel and move it from the neutral bar to the ground bar, because remarking wires to be grounds is not allowed unless the wire is #4 or larger.

While it is "technically leeegal" to use a neutral wire as a ground wire on a 120V/240V appliance, it is not for a 240V-only appliance.  Therefore I would aim for the best of all worlds, and retrofit a ground wire from the oven location to the panel the oven is powered from.  #12 will suffice. Bare wire will suffice, otherwise it must be green or green/yellow.  The stuff in the wall isn't MC, it looks to me like flexible metal conduit - and it's possible (easy?) to push/pull additional wires into conduit.

On ovens, "which hot is which" doesn't matter.  It's perfectly fine to hook up two hots (black and black-taped-white) to two hots (black and red).


Is it safe to use heat tape on a drain line (p-trap)?

I would build a small insulated enclosure around the trap and drain. Could easily be constructed with a couple pieces of lumber or some left over log siding. (see you have log siding on the wall) Heat tape could scorch the PVC and be hard to regulate.


What I did was drill axial holes in the center of the 4 X 4 ; push in one foot lengths copper tubing ( or steel conduit) halfway. Then drill matching holes into the extension 4 X 4 and push them onto the tubing . When connecting railings are added it has good strength. Select a hole size to give a tight fit with whatever tubing you use.


How should I run electrical wire perpendicular to exposed joists in my basement?

Conduit is not required where a cable runs through bored holes in joists. If you're worried about it, you could install running boards between the joists above or below the cable.

National Electrical Code
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 334 Nonmetallic Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC, and NMS
334.17 Through or Parallel to Framing Members. Types
NM, NMC, or NMS cable shall be protected in accordance
with 300.4 where installed through or parallel to framing
members. Grommets used as required in 300.4(B)(1)
shall remain in place and be listed for the purpose of
cable protection.

Fire retardant is also not typically required, unless the cable is passing between dwelling units, into a garage, or between floors.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 300 Wiring Methods
300.21 Spread of Fire or Products of Combustion. Electrical
installations in hollow spaces, vertical shafts, and
ventilation or air-handling ducts shall be made so that the
possible spread of fire or products of combustion will not
be substantially increased. Openings around electrical penetrations
through fire-resistant-rated walls, partitions,
floors, or ceilings shall be firestopped using approved methods
to maintain the fire resistance rating.

This is of course unless there are any local amendments.


Simply if both of those kitchen outlets are supplied from the same circuit with the 20A fuse you have a problem.

The maximum available power is: 220VAC * 20A = 4400W.

It is usually recommended that a circuit be derated to 80% of it's fused capacity for loads that may be on for any length of time. That takes your recommended available usage to 3520W. So any usage combination the you come up with from that mix of loads that goes over 3520W is a hazard and should be avoided.

So ... you should definitely be considering the the addition of a new circuit to your kitchen for the new dual burner unit. Call in a professional electrician and they can tell you what you need to be safe and code compliant in your area.


Replacing a light kit on a ceiling fan with a cap?

The major problem with this are finding those caps. Wherever that fan was purchased, I'd be surprised if they sold let alone had any caps... I wish you the best of luck in your search though

I've done many fan installs for people and have those instances too, where a person just wanted that light kit removed and the cap replaced. I got lucky a couple of times where people had their original caps.

The other times when there was no hope finding caps I've modified the light kit by removing the lights in them and capping off the holes left behind with flat head or round head carriage bolts, with nuts behind them. Painted to match the repaired area, of course.

Not too bad of a look, I believe.


Dude: Don't monkey wire this up.  There's no way you;re going to get 16 amps at 240 out of a 10 amps outlet.  I understand in the down under your convenience outlets are at 230 or 240, if not, and you are at 120, it's even much worse. But still, whatever you are supplying, do it right.  The approach of parrallelling  two transformers to deliver the needed amperage.... that would require them  to be on the same phase forever. That is a hack job. Just run the correct cable and breakers and sleep easily.


Have Shed/Man Cave & Need Unground Power Advice

Sounds like cheap is a motivation, but there's a relationship between depth of dig and cost of materials.

At 24" of cover you can use plain cable such as UF.
At 18" of cover you can use cheapie PVC conduit or EMT.
At 6" of cover you can use Rigid metal conduit.

So as expensive as Rigid might be, it might be significantly cheaper than renting a trencher if you can hand-dig or hydro-dig with a hose to 6".

If you run conduit, you can use THWN-2 single wires instead of expensive, balky cable, and you can go cheap now and add more or larger wires later.   If you use metal conduit, you don't need a ground wire.

Also if you are cheap, the first thing to shortcut is the 3% voltage drop thing - that was always an old wives tale, is usually computed wrong anyway, and is simply not needed. Also, 100' distances are within 3% even at statutory max current!

For 20A, use 12 AWG UF or THWN in 1/2" conduit.
For 30A, 10 AWG " " " 1/2" conduit.
For 40A, 8 AWG " " " 3/4" conduit
For 60A, 6 AWG copper ... ... 3/4" conduit or 4 AWG Aluminum in 1" conduit.


You can do it either way, I would use a corner bead, but use the variety that has expanded metal lathe on the edges too. Although corner could be done "freehand", using the trowel as a guide on one side and scraping the stucco over the edge of the trowel (an 18" concrete trowel) let that set, then do the same for the other side. This is done for the first two coats then the finish coat is done on both faces.
If you use a corner bead, you can build up both sides at the time doing the work in three steps instead of five. Make sure you hold the stucco back off the corner bead the appropriate amount for each layer, until the finish layer goes flush with the corner bead
I take it is a sanded finish? You may be able to eliminate a layer, just the scratch coat, then finish coat.


Is it safe for plumbing to use rainwater to flush toilets?

It is doubtful the pH+ of rainwater anywhere, other than directly downwind of an erupting volcano, would be unsafe in terms of damaging plumbing fixtures or pipes.
That said, there is concern in how the rainwater is stored. It must be kept so as not to be a breeding place for mosquitoes, toxic algae or other noxious critters, nor should the container cause entrapment of wildlife. There also must be air breaks to ensure that the untreated rainwater does not enter and contaminate potable water. There may be local regulations regarding use of rainwater or "greywater".