What size battery do you have? When using large bits the drill draws a high amperage the smaller batteries just cannot sustain a heavy load. For example a 1 amp hour drill may be able to drill an inch but jump to a 4 amp hour or larger and it may not over heat and shutdown at all, I found this especially true with my battery band saw, trying to cut 2" pipe my small batteries just could not keep up but the big ones made cut after cut with no problems.


Can I reduce hot water distribution delay with thinner tubes?

You could try to split the difference slightly "bathroom weighted" and branch off to the kitchen down the line so that the cold water column is reduced to either fixture once one has operated it's a little difficult to calculate gpm based on pressure and pipe diameter. Also static pressure will drop with a draw. You can't calculate that without a field test.

In order to calculate gpm based on pressure and pipe diameter you need to solve the bernoulli equation. It's not a simple task and there are many aspects that are easy to mess up. I don't know it well enough to discrbe it and I have never used it in practice. If you did want to try 3/8" pipe (uncommon for domestic supply) pick up a roll, attach one end to a hose bib and measure gpm with a large measuring cup. If 10 seconds gives you half a gallon (it probably won't using this figure for clarity) then 1 minute would give you 3 gallons thus 3 gpm.

Keep in mind a typical kitchen fixture is about 2 gpm. If your setup allows for a comfortable 100% hot at the outlet you will want to measure close to 2 gpm from your coil and use that as your max length.

Also when using solar and staying off grid etc. You need to consider legionnaires bacteria. Passive control of the domestic hot system can lead to a problem with the bacteria. Stored water should be above 140°F

Here's an example of how to pipe in the hot water


How to know what color of paint was used on the walls?

Take a paint chip from a hidden location to the store, they will match it for you. It's a fairly common practice. Just realize that paint fades, so even a perfect match to your chip may not be a perfect match to the entire wall. It's best to paint at least up to a corner, if not the entire room. If that's not possible, then practice blending your patch into the rest of the wall by going over it with a mostly dry roller and a light touch.


What kind of glue can I use to attach a laminated poster to a wood frame?

If this poster has potential value either sentimental or monetary I would reccomend framing it like you would a photograph. Based on the size I would use lexan /plexiglass to cover it. The problem with using glue is the wood will expand and contract with humidity changes, the poster will stay the same size. This will result in buckles when the wood shrinks or the adhesive will pull away as the wood expands.


The bits I have go into a magnetic holder which is sufficient for most screws except, of course, the stainless ones...


How do I remove the head off this Giacomini thermostatic radiator valve?

In the technical guides for the Giacomini valves, it appears that some of the heads can be removed by unscrewing it past the the open position. Have you tried that? This is assuming that the top part on your model spins.

For other models, it appears the whole head pulls off the valve. An example is shown in this guide: http://www.giacomini.com/export/sites/default/en/download_gallery/certifications/cen_en_215_tech_doc/1257763387429_R452_1-502GB.pdf

In your photo, I can see the tops of the numbers on the valve, but not enough to compare to the various units the manufacturer produces. You might call them for more info at their support line, here:

TECHNICAL MANAGER
eng. SERVILIO GIORIA
tel.: 0322 923 372
servilio.gioria@giacomini.com

TECHNICAL DEPARTMENT SECRETARY

Mrs. PAOLA FRATTINI
tel.0322 923 372 - fax 0322 923 255
paola.frattini@giacomini.com


Is the gutter on the side of my roof dormer necessary?

Since the dormer extends out past the main roof, some (looks like about half) of the water would fall to the ground below. This could cause problems with drainage, puddling, erosion, and possibly lead to water infiltration.

The gutter should be there, but there should be a downspout running from the outlet to the lower gutter (as described in this answer).  As it is now, you will likely see deterioration of the shingles, where the water flows out of the outlet and across the roof. The rate of deterioration will depend on the volume of rainfall in the area, among other factors.


What is the name of this tool that is used to clamp a piece of wood for drilling?

It's a G-Clamp (or C-Clamp, or F-Clamp, or whatever other kind of clamp works) with a piece of scrap wood.
The clamp clamps the scrap wood to the back of your workpiece so that, when the drill bit pops through, it doesn't break the back of the workpiece but instead drills a neat exit hole.


"Attic stairs" equivelent in an attic "hatch" size hole?

http://www.wernerladder.com/newprods/televator.php

You might see if this Werner "Televator" ladder would fit. I was looking for something similar, but my attic opening is framed at 20"x24" rather than 22"x22". The Werner has received good reviews at amazon.


If this is something you will only need to do one time, swap out the latchset. The chance of dropping the pins are high the first time around, but with care, it can be done. I know this from experience. The new latchset gives new longevity as well.

If this will be a recurring thing get the keying kit, I see them online and you can pick them up for as little as the cost of a new latchset, for the smaller kits. There are really cheap ones too, but I know nothing of what they have the capability of doing other than rekeying one knob.

I have no faith in the smartkey setup, but I am a purist when it comes to locks. I do not claim to know about smartkeys, but if it is a matter of putting in one key, installing a specific tool, and then put in the new key and remove the tool and it changes the lock, sounds like somebody with the original and a new key, and the same special tool can do the same.


There are too many factors here to give any sort of objective answer:

Local climate
Tree species
Tree health
Location conditions
Future weather, insects, etc.

Ultimately it comes down to your tolerance for risk. A stump of that diameter will remain structurally sound at its core for a number of years, within reason. I'd consider it robust enough to support a modest structure (say 4x6 feet, weighing at most a few hundred lbs.) for at least four. However, the outer edges will begin to decay first. I wouldn't rely on lag screws, for example, for load bearing. I'd be cutting notches into the top of the stump to carry beams, and relying on mechanical fasteners only for stability.

Check it every year for signs of instability. It'll be fairly apparent when it starts to get sketchy.


I've heard of using a layer of oil to prevent evaporation or discourage mosquitoes or things like that... but that requires levels be set so the oil stays above the pump inlet at all times, and it assumes that some loss of oil into the exhaust is OK (which is one reason it might need replacing).

If the town said no, I'd say it's a reasonable position for them to take, and the plumber should know the actual rules... so I think it's worth telling him that there was an objection and asking him to explain why he recommended it.


1920s stove pipe walled off behind kitchen

It almost certainly is in sections, but to get the first section out you'll have to get the T away from the wall.

Asbestos putties were really common.  That said you have a choice, pull it out and stay ignorant, or add probably $2000 to the removal cost to have a test and an abatement firm come out.  The asbestos could have been in the clay pipe, but more likely was in a fireseal putty used between sections.


Is there a way to increase toilet flush pressure to prevent clogs?

To answer the question you asked, yes, you can get a new toilet that flushes faster. They have a flush strength label on the box, and the faster flushes are done by making the opening between the tank and base larger.

However, a slow drain may be more related to an improper vent or a drain line that's too small or improperly sloped. Without a proper vent, the flow down the drain is held back by the vacuum created by the trap built into the toilet. If the drain is too small, well, large things in a small drain take more effort. And if it's not properly sloped, we all know the direction this stuff flows, and it's not uphill.

To determine if the problem is with your toilet or with the drain, try pouring water into the toilet directly with a bucket and see if it drains fast enough. If that's better, replace the toilet. But if it's still not good enough, you've got some work to do.


Is the pressure gauge close to the pressure switch or some distance away.  Maybe the pressure switch is seeing a different pressure than the gauge. Too small piping could also contribute as well as any blockages.   Either that or the pressure switch isn't adjusted properly.

With that small a tank the usage by the sprinkler system and the production rate of the pump would need to be very closely matched or you'd short cycling as you describe.  It sounds more like an expansion tank.

Short cycling is also very hard on the pump motor too.

You mentioned you recently replaced some items, was it working before? What is the reason for the changes?

I'd put in a much larger storage/pressure tank.  That would minimize the short cycling. A diagram of your plumbing would help us sort this this out as well.

Sorry for posting this as an "answer", but it was too long for the comment section.


Does my furnace's air filter do anything at all?

the air filter is designed to clean the air flow prior to passing through the fan or the heat exchanger.  its a common misconception that the air filter cleans the air for us humans.  its there to keep the air clean for the machinery.  its a secondary benefit that the air is cleaner for us.  if you get a buildup of dust inside the fan, you get overheating of the motor, inefficient air flow across the vanes, even fires from localized buildups.  if you get dust buildup in the heat exhanger, it can massively shorten the life of the furnace (particularly in electric furnaces) or cause an outright fire.

if you cant get a cartridge filter to fit your furnace, get an hvac company to come in and install one between the cold air plenum and the furnace intake.  then you can keep the furnace cleaner longer, which will mean a longer life for your furnace.


Going along side to the right won’t be a problem, on the left the gas co could be “pissy” because that is the supply but the right is your responsibility. There is no power and no classified flammable or combustibles being pushed through the pipe so you should not have a problem with the vent on the right side of the meter.


Dust proofing unfinished basement concrete floor

I would recommend using ordinary concrete floor paint, NON-glossy, water-based. One common brand of that is the same brand as a "waterproofer" but the paint and the waterproofer are very different products (the waterproofer is a very thick glop that covers a very small area per gallon.)

Non-glossy means it's not slippery without having to add anything to make it non-slip. Waterbased means it's also not horribly stinky and it's easy to clean your brushes/rollers. It's also easy to recoat if the surface is ever stained or damaged.

Both of the products you have linked will leave you with a gray concrete color (since they are clear) and a surface that is slippery.

My personal preference is white, since it makes the area MUCH brighter by reflecting light. Gray and "terra-cotta red" seem to be more common choices for floors, but I find the white floor very nice (mind, I don't freak out about trying to keep it perfect.)

If you are "soap and water washing" before paint, rinse, rinse some more, and rinse again - then dry throughly before painting. Soap residue is not good for paint.


1960s bomb shelter a safe place to wait out a tornado?

I agree with @paul:  the room should be adequate for protection from a tornado.

However, a bomb shelter was/is designed with different assumptions than what one would design a storm cellar for, primarily that once the bomb shelter is occupied, that there would be no hurry in opening the door for quite awhile.  Also that there is little need for outside communication since it is generally assumed that the phone company is gone and probably all radio stations.

A hollow core door is something of a concern due to over-pressurization and under-pressurization between the room and the kitchen during a storm could (and probably will) bust up the door and turn it into nasty projectiles.  A nice heavy solid core door is much more likely to perform satisfactorily.  It is possibly better to have no door than a hollow core.

Items to consider adding:

A cell phone repeater located just outside the shelter should easily be able to receive cell phones from inside where the 12–24 inches of concrete might make cell phones otherwise useless.
A pry bar, handsaw (for cutting lumber), hacksaw (for cutting rebar), and sledgehammer would be good insurance inside to be sure you can get out when it is time.
Several battery powered lights
Plenty of water and food
A porta-toilet
First aid kit
You are carrying your cell phone into the shelter with you, right?

In all likelihood, you would be in the shelter for only a few minutes less than once a year.  But having the supplies to be comfortable for several days is great insurance even for non-tornado events when you wouldn't even use the shelter.


Drain the lake then repair properly or dam the water back and then repair.
Which you can do is governed by the size of the lake.


How do I fix metal clad wood casement windows that won't close?

As mentioned by fixer1234, the problem is 80 years of paint build up. The interlocking style of weather stripping you have there works with very close tolerances. When the weatherstripping gets painted it takes away already tight tolerances. It looks like in the first photo of the window open there is "bridging" where the paint has either spanned the gap or filled in the gap needed for the other part of the weatherstripping on the jamb to nest into.

The metal needs to be cleaned of all paint. The metal will not rust so scrape away, but you MUST be careful not to distort the metal in any way. I cannot tell if it is in other places, it does not take much to give you trouble.

Back in the day this was the best out there and when it is kept in good shape, the window works flawlessly for opening and closing. Keeping it in good shape requires that no paint get on it, and no trash/debris gets in the spaces left by the metal for its' counterpart to fit into.

Looking closer at the open window picture there is a large buildup of paint on the leading edge of the metal that changes the size of the metal so it affects how the metal on the window engages the metal on the jamb. You may notice a slight improvement if that is cleaned off.

One of the tools I use to clean this type of trouble off of old school weatherstripping is my trusty sanding block, made from the belt of a belt sander pulled over a block of wood, cut so-so that it literally has to be stretched onto the block of wood. That tool will remove the paint and grind things flat. If you use the idea I suggest either 50 or 60 grit sanding belt to do the task. Any finer grit will readily clog. A paint scraper will come in handy too.

If you stripped the paint off to bare wood on the sill, head and the sides where the window swings out of, and prime and repaint, you may find you widows may have not swelled so much after all. I would need close ups of the corners of the windows to better say, but from what I see, there is no major swelling going on, although the wood does move seasonally due to humidity changes during winter/summer.


What heights can electrical wiring be fished through wall studs?

Your situation isn't unique, and any wall is likely to have wiring in it at various heights. It should be centered horizontally, so if you limit your fastener depth to about 1-1/4" you should be safe. If that's not deep enough you're probably not using the right fasteners. Wires and pipes that are close to the stud face should already be protected with steel plates.

Of course, you can purchase a non-contact voltage detector to trace the wiring, but this shouldn't be necessary.


Attaching metal studwork to a drywall (not the other way around!)

I have used anchors in drywall /plasterboard for a wall on several occasions it really doesn’t take much with the bottom channel nailed down and the top attached to the ceiling joists.
If running parallel between 2 Joyce’s add nailers every 16” or so ( nailer a 2x4 horizontally between two Joyce’s 4” wide side down so you have a big target to screw into.
The wall joint is not really carrying any load but a couple anchors in the middle and a foot or 16” up and down would provide all the stability you would need.
If running electrical through the metal studs don’t forget to put grommets in if the cut out if it is not rolled. Recently had to open a wall because Romex (nmb) was used without grommets in a cold storage room the evaporator (cooling coil) fans vibrated enough to cut through the sheath and the insulation of the cable.
The 50 amp circuit was for the outside compressor, 50 amps of 120v made one heck of a mess on that stud and because they reset the breaker quite a few times it burned through the second hot the last time and welded #6 wire to the stud then they could no longer reset it and called me. (Very expensive repair).


Attaching curtain rail to plasterboard/drywall over studwork

Typically you attach the curtain hardware into the stud framing around the window, the only reason to add any extra wood to mount the brackets is if you need to move the bracket out from the wall to get clear of any window trim, or if the hardware must be installed somewhere that doesn't have any studs behind it and you use the wood piece to span the space between the studs.

You can set the hardware directly on the plaster, or some installs may have it on the trim surrounding the window, but either way, you want a long screw that can reach and hold into the stud to avoid the curtains pulling out the old hardware.


I added insulation to my attic rafters, but should I have left room for airflow?

You can buy air ducts that staple to the inside of your roof above the eave vents and fit between the rafters.  The will hold open an air gap of approximately 1 inch to allow airflow past a layer of insulation.  The ones I've used are made of styrofoam and IIRC they cost around $2.  You should be able to find them near the insulation in your home improvement store.

EDIT: They are called baffles or rafter vents; this is how they're installed:


garbage disposal still works but the sink just does not drain

In my last house, any time my wife would put large amounts of lettuce or cabbage leaves or similar vegetables through the disposal the discharge drain after the disposal would plug up causing me to have to take the drain apart and remove the plugging. Using a plunger just made the plugging worse since it would only compact the stuff in the discharge piping.


On the roofs I've done, the shingles (or metal, in one case) extended 1/2" to 1" past the flashing.  It does not sound like this is the source of the problem for you.  The flashing should protect the fascia from a full water flow, if it is the correct flashing.  You describe it as L shaped, but it should have a kick out at the bottom ("drip edge").  I found a decent picture here.

In addition to a small overhang and proper flashing, the final defense for your fascia is a coat of paint.  If the fascia is not rotten, you should restore its surface, and prime and paint.


Why did the bottom water heater element fail before the top when run empty?

You should be looking at around 13 ohms for a standard 4500 watt heating element. If an element is burned up, your meter would have 0 deflection.
Our water heaters here in Florida always have the top element going on first because that's the first water leaving the tank and getting into your shower. Once the top thermostat reaches its setting it turns off and turns on the lower element. which stays on until it gets up to its setting. The bottom element will cycle on and off during normal hot water usage but when a lot of water is being used, the top one will start to operate to keep hot water leaving the tank. I have LEDs  hooked up to each element so I'm sure how they work.
My guess  is that you blew the top element because it would go on first but any combination could occur depending on which one was on at the time the draining took place.


Well, we know water's getting through & the circulator's pumping. So, I'd say get an HVAC guy out to inspect, test & replace whatever. The valve actuator motor could be failing & getting stuck. Meaning, you're periodically getting heat when another valve opens & pumps. Or, the valve's circuitry has an intermittent problem with not signaling the valve to close or the circulator to stop. I don't think there's a rebuild option here, sorry. Plus, you'll know what's what when the other valve's go.


What do I need to do to safely reconnect an A/C-powered smoke detector?

I don't think you can.  I can't say for sure without seeing the part that the wires pulled out of, but I'd expect that originally those wires were soldered to a terminal block, then that terminal block was sealed inside the (probably sonically welded) plug.  Without opening the plug to re-solder those wires, you won't get a secure connection.

TL;DR: Don't mess with it; just replace it.  Smoke detectors are not that expensive and it's better to have a new one that you can rely on than one that's been broken and repaired.


Can I plug a workbench mounted double gang outlet into a single gang wall outlet?

I like power strips similar to this for work areas. They are nice because they have an on/off switch, which if mounted in an easy to reach location could save life and limb.

Using a power strip like this should not be a problem, as long as you don't run too many tools at once.  And it should conform to most codes, as it would be classified as an extension cord (I think).


Light fitting had water in it - bulb has been removed, and the switch is off, but breakers for the downstairs light circuit won't turn on

If there are sparks, something has gone wrong and that breaker is doing its job and preventing your house from burning down.

Most likely the power runs into the box where that light is first, then to the switch.  That's a completely normal thing.  Look up the term "switch loop" for details.

First step is to remove that fixture and check for any water damage and damaged or loose wiring - both in the fixture itself and in the box it was mounted to.  Since that's where the sparks are flying, it's almost certainly where the problem is.  Before disconnecting any wiring, take lots of photos showing exactly where each wire comes from and goes to - you'll be grateful for those when you go to wire it back up.

Then it's just a matter of fixing whatever has gone wrong.  Might just be a wire that has come loose and needs reconnecting.  Or it might be severe damage to the wiring and require replacing.  Won't know until you get in there.

If somehow that doesn't turn up any problems, do the same for the other fixture.  Then the switch.  Then anything else that is on the same breaker.


Congrats on your first project! I understand your concern.
Stains don't offer wood protection so a top coat is advised especially if it is for an outdoor table.

I used a spray once and was disappointed, so my background is with a can.  But I would suggest a foam brush, they are cheap, can be tossed afterward and when applied correctly they don’t leave any brush marks.
If you run smooth and consistent you should not get any bubbles or streaks.

Preparation and environment are important, make sure the surface is clean and sanded smooth.
Also a light is important, so you can reflect light against the table to spot any issues.  Poly can be understanding if done right.
Take your time and make sure you have enough time to complete the project, and avoid doing it where bugs, wind and small debris can land and then stick to the surface before it dries.

Don’t shake the can, that prevents bubbles within the poly before application.
Dip the brush in and run with the grain slowly.
Make sure your application is thin enough, a lot of people want to apply it too thick, which makes the process much more complicated.
Run long straight lines with the grain.  When running the next line, make sure the brush over laps the previous run.

Once the project is done, let it sit, don’t poke or try to fix anything.  Poly over time will flatten itself out as it dries.
A warm dry day is the best environment.

If you see spots or bubbles wait until it dries sand them with >=280 grit sand paper.

If the stain is water based use a water based poly, or if oil based use an oil based poly.  Both have pros and cons.  When applying a second coat, sand gently to prevent sanding out too much poly and go smoothly with the grain.  I avoid steel wool because it can leave small pieces of metal.  Make sure the surface is very clean before the second coat.

Good luck and enjoy the table!


Transfer switch connected to neutral and ground in sub-panel instead of main panel

Nope.  This question comes up a lot on here, and you can't do it because it creates a paralleling problem with the neutrals.
These Reliance switches are designed for one thing: to provide a generator salesman a switch to offer to anyone without having to understand or investigate their panel.  But they aren't well made, and they have a lot of limitations -- GFCI/AFCI support is a serious problem.  And because of how they mishandle neutrals, supporting 2 separate panels is simply out of the question.
Your only Reliance-side option is to move the circuit in question so it's in the same panel with all the other circuits.
The better way to do it is to do what the generator salesman was trying to avoid: Evaluate your main panel for the feasibility of fitting a Generator Interlock.  That lets you feed the entire main service panel (and subpanel too!) from the generator; on the proviso that you limit appliance use (or turn some off) to keep current draw within the generator's range.   That will neatly moot your entire problem.


You could chip a small piece and take it to the paint shop like Sherwin and ask them to do a match for you.


Extension cord can't plug into christmas light string?

Thanks for the pictures! It looks like the problem is that your extension cord is polarized, but your Christmas lights aren't. The best solution is to replace the electrical receptacle at the end of the first set of lights with a polarized one. They sell replacement receptacles for Christmas lights.

You could use a ground plug adapter to do this, but you would need to trim the polarized neutral plug to fit in a non-polarized hole which is a bad idea. It will be fine for this season, but once you take your lights down for the season you'll forget that you have a modified adapter that could be reused for something else and hurt somebody.


I would not put a GFCI breaker on this device. Code requires it to be GFCI protected and 2 GFCI devices can cause trouble in resetting.
I ran into a issue with one of the floor style that ran a self test that would trip the breaker so we could never reset it (the home owner called me I megged the heater and it was good so then I pulled 1 lead to the heater still tripped the panel breaker, called the mfg and they told me it was in there GFCI test that was tripping the circuit. I believe this test was the end of life test where it basically megged the circuit prior to energizing looking for leakage that may not show up on a standard test until wet.


How to join steel pipe for decorative purposes

Use pipe shorts (nipples), they're threaded on both ends and can be acquired in various foot lengths, and everything in between a 'close nipple' (~0") up to 18". But you should price check the cost of a threading verses a short, and which one would be less of a headache for you.

Or use EMT. For esthetics, use compression fittings and paint everything black.

Do not file away some of the OD and jamb a steel pipe into a fitting. You do not want it to fall on someone. For that same reason, do not use adhesive.

Although it would work, if you knew how to weld and owned a welder, I don't think you'd be asking this question.

I'm hip to decorative steel pipe, but only if it's threaded together. Using couplings that don't belong on steel pipe would scream "DiY project". And joining pipe together poorly would be poor form. If you're going to hang 3/4" steel pipe above my head, I expect to be able to do pull-ups off it. If you go with 3/4" EMT, then whatever. But if you do you'll lose the decorative aspect; EMT is simply cheap, easy, and functional. Where as with pipe, you can always still see some thread and tell it's robust - that's part of its charm.


How can I reliably crimp aluminum ferrules without a specialized tool?

Just crush the thing with any tool you have around.

I googled the phrase "crimping aluminum sleeve without tool" to find examples of a child using pliers to get this done:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMJETUcYNxg

If you can use a big vise to crush them down, that's probably the most 'controlled' way.  Otherwise, use pliers, or get a hammer and chisel and dent the sleeve at two or three points with the chisel.

Plan on destroying one or two sleeves first just to get the technique down.  Then, once you have one that looks right, really try to rip the wires out (to verify that you have a good internal connection).


What's the best way to account for saw blade width (kerf) when cutting boards?

Yes, you might want the highest precision possible - for example when you build furniture which benefits greatly from precise cuts. The most convenient way would be to draw the line that will signify the edge of the piece you want cut so that the blade cuts the line and whatever material is on the far side of the raw board. Something like this:

 |the detail you want|line|remaining material|
 |                   |blade cuts here|

This is quite easily achieved with power saws even without a guide and will be more of a challenge with hand saws.


Depends on size. For significant blems, I'd try wood putty, handling it as if it were joint compound. If that didn't work, I might just give up and actually use joint compound...

However, remember that for small nichs and scratches paint itself can fill small irregularities, especially if you scuff-sand between coats or otherwise actively level the surface.


You're right, not the best way to do this. The vinyl will shrink a bit when cut if not glued down so don't try to cut it to fit. I'd keep at least an inch so you can trim to fit as you already know how hard it is to trim it accurately.

Using the carpet as a template won't work either because carpet edges are never cut to fit exactly. Their edges are stuffed down between the walls and tack strips. I'd wait until you're ready for the final installation and then get some construction paper and make an exact template by laying out the paper in the hallway and taping it all together. then lay the template over your sheet vinyl and cut with a straight edge and utility knife.


What happens when there is no heat demand?

In a normal hot water system heat demand triggers a main circulating pump and a zone valve or zone pump.

Without demand, heat can slowly migrate through the pipes by the laws of thermodynamics.

This migration can be stopped by the zone valve or a zone pump with a built in check valve.

Hope this helps your thought process.


How can I repair a textured ceiling without making a mess?

Caulk the hairline cracks. Pick out the nail pop plaster, screw the nail or screw back in with an adjacent screw to hold it in, spackle & prime. Then, re-paint the ceilings with a Sandy Paint or Add Sand to any paint.

Roll-on the new paint for everything. But then, go back with a brush to do a 2nd or 3rd coat with a brush. The brush will let you swirl & build-up any flat areas for a pretty perfect match quite easily.


Those are indeed hazardous "exposed wires", and you should take immediate precautions to make it impossible for anyone to inadvertently touch them. Ideally, you'd turn off power to that circuit and either keep it turned off, or while the power is off cover the exposed wires securely with an insulating device (a securely fastened wire nut, electrical tape, etc) until you can have someone replace the light fixture.


Why won't my natural gas fireplace light when it's cold?

From the Manual, one of these two solutions sounds most likely:

  Verify all connections to wiring diagram in manual. Verify connections underneath pilot assembly are tight. Verify flame sense or igniter wires are not grounding out to metal chassis, pilot burner, pilot enclosure or screen if present, or any other metal object.

Or

  With fixed glass assembly in place, verify that flame is engulfing flame-sensing rod on left side of pilot hood. Flamesensing rod should glow shortly after ignition. With a multimeter, verify that current in series between module and sense lead is at least 0.14 microamps. Verify correct pilot orifice is installed and gas inlet is set to pressure specifications. Polish flame-sensing rod with fine steel wool to remove any contaminants that may have accumulated on flame-sensing rod.

The fact that it occurs only when cold could mean a poor electrical connection (metal expands when heated which results in a better connection), or the thermocouple is not properly in the flame (maybe by such a small distance that the room heat allows it to get to the proper voltage).


When flying squirrel proofing should I seal potential entry points or actual entry points?

Wildlife is persistent about looking for shelter, so if you seal some openings and leave others, animals will eventually find the other openings and use them.  So seal all the openings you can find.

As to the "cement", if the specialist was talking about those plastic caps in particular, then they just meant glue.  "Vinyl" siding is made out of poly-vinyl chloride, or "PVC", and the glue for it is called "PVC cement".  That will only work if the caps are also made from PVC.  If they aren't, then the glue won't stick.  But the reviews say they hold from friction, so you probably don't really need any glue.

Another approach is to fill it in with urethane spray-foam insulation, commonly sold under the "Great Stuff" brand name.  Use the "low expansion" type so it doesn't bulge the trim.


Is this lint buildup in my tumble dryer really lint?

It is a sound absorber for the air inlet. It muffles the sound of the air being sucked into the dryer.
 Check the vent hood, where your dryer vents to the outside, for lint buildup. If everything is clear and your thermal protection till goes out frequently, you ought to have it checked out. It appears that the sound absorbers are deteriorated or at least loose and could be restricting flow. good luck


98 volts is a significant drop over 150 ft. This likely indicates a failing connection, possibly arcing. Arcing is fire risk and you should only have a breaker on to help locate the fault, otherwise leave it off until corrected. To locate the fault, check every junction between the breaker and switch for the voltage drop, loose wires, or blackening of the wires.

For the light, 98 volts will usually be enough to see some light on most fixtures, particularly incandescent lights. What's missing is how many amps are moving through the wires. You can read phantom voltage from wiring running in close proximity, or a slight voltage from arcing, but with few amps. Without both, the light will not work.


I don't have a specific answer for you but all of the data sheets from Behr I've come across seem to suggest that they have a shelf life of two years (IF unopened).  For example: http://www.behrpro.com/cma/BehrPro/Marketing/Products/TDS/7050_27050.pdf

I'd say 6 years is pushing your luck and I wouldn't recommend using it for highly visible or large projects... or project where you need to blend the color with something else.  Maybe you can use it for some minor trivial touch-up projects?


You have three competing items here:
No Neutral (or at least, designed for "no neutral")
Historically, there was no guarantee of neutral in a switchbox. So to make a "universal" switch (timer, dimmer, sensor) you designed it to not need a neutral. There are basically two ways to do that: leak through switched hot, leak to ground. Leak through switched hot used to be a great solution with incandescent bulbs. But not with LEDs.
Sensors Need Power
Many (though not all) switches with light sensors need to power to make them work properly. That means they need power all the time. So, as noted above, they will typically try to get that power using the same wire that is "switched" on/off. No problem with an ordinary switch as it doesn't need power to do anything except to power the light. But sensors, timers, smart switches, etc. need power to do things even when the light (or other switched load) is "off".
LEDs Don't Need Much Power
This is the final piece of the puzzle. An incandescent bulb will happily let a little bit of current through with no visible effect. The current is going through the same filament that normally glows when "on", but at a very low level of current there is no glow. It isn't "dim glow", it is no light at all because the wire doesn't glow until it gets hot and it doesn't get hot unless it has a lot of current.
An LED bulb uses the current in an entirely different way. In a sense (not exactly), it grabs as much current as it needs, converts it from AC to DC and then uses the result to create light. As a result, it can produce a little bit of light with a little bit of current. Sometimes that translates into a dim light. Sometimes that translates into a flickering or flashing light. Sometimes it won't light up - but the sensor/timer/etc. won't work either. Sometimes it will work just fine (i.e., nothing visible but the sensor/timer/etc. works correctly). Which "sometimes" you get will depend on the particular type of light.
How to Fix
The NEC now requires neutrals in (or easily added via conduit) each switchbox. If you have an older house (like I do) then you have a few options:

Find the neutral and use a switch that works with a neutral. If you have a switch loop (power => light => switch) then this will probably not be so easy, but if you have a simple switch configuration (power => switch => light) then very often the neutral will be easily accessible - typically look for two or more white (and only white) wires wired together.
Add a neutral and use a switch that works with a neutral. If you have a switch loop or other wiring with no neutral accessible, add a neutral. If your wires are in conduit then it should be easy to add a neutral wire. But if not then you must replace the cable - you can't have cable-(black/white) and string a separate white wire next to it - you need to have /3 cable - black/red/white. (Doesn't have to be black/red but those are the usual colors in cables.)
Use a switch that doesn't need a neutral and doesn't use leakage current through the switched hot wire. It will be hard to something described exactly that way, so what you normally look for is a switch that (a) specifically lists "LED compatible", (b) does NOT require a neutral wire and (c) requires a ground wire. All (or nearly all) switches will have a ground wire, but the key here is that the ground wire is actually functional and not merely for safety. Figuring this out may take a little digging.

For example (I haven't tried this one myself, but based on specs it should work), Lutron
Model # MS-O2S-2PK-WH Maestro Motion Sensor Switch:

"works with any bulb type, including CFL and LED"
"no neutral required - ground wire required"

If the ground was only for safety, then "ground wire required" would not be stated *and especially not right next to "no neutral required".
In the instructions item 1 is "Ground is required for product to function. If no ground wire is present, consult a licensed electrician."


How long should I wait to plug in my refrigerator after unplugging it?

There's 2 reasons to wait after moving a refigerator.

If you tipped it over the oil needs to re-settle in the compressor.

If you interrupted a run cycle the compressor may not be able to re-start, as the motor has a low starting torque and starts more easily working into a low pressure difference - ie after a little rest.

In the first case wait a few hours. In the second case 5 minutes is plenty, or you can ignore it and the thermal cut-out will enforce the wait if needed.


Sounds like it has a vacuum-breaker, and the vacuum-breaker valve/disc is stuck or failed.

Or, depending on what you mean for the leak location, the packing on the valve stem is loose or needs to be replaced.


Pool filler is leaking somewhere. I know the cartridge replacement seems suspect, but I believe that's just a coincidence.


Do asphalt contractors throw away unused sealant at end of season?

This is the setup for a classic scam. The offer might be legit, but that is really not the way to bet. Before pursuing this check with the police, BBB, att'y general's office, and past customers.

http://www.bbb.org/blog/2012/04/watch-out-for-paving-scams-this-spring/

[H]ere are a few red flags that you can look for in a driveway repair scam:

* The contractor says there are leftover materials from another
job – Professional asphalt contractors know, with great accuracy,
how much paving material is needed to complete each project.
Rarely will they have leftover material.

Scammers use this as a ploy to explain how they can provide you
with a huge discount over the normal price. The catch is that
they will ask you to pay everything upfront. The materials tend
to be inferior and the work ends up shoddy.

* Beware if you are pushed to make a quick decision – Trustworthy
contractors will provide a written estimate that will be valid
for days or weeks. It should specify in detail the work to be
performed and the total price.

* Be suspicious if you are asked to pay on in cash – Most
reputable contractors will take checks or credit cards.

* Watch out for a company that is from out of state – Look at the
truck the representative travels in. If it is unmarked or has an
out-of-state license plate, be cautious. Even if the
representative claims to have a local phone number, scammers can
easily purchase disposable cell phones to provide a local number
in the area they are soliciting.

Or just websearch "driveway scam". Sometimes it's repaving, sometimes it's resealing, always it needs to be considered questionable. If an offer sounds too good to be true, it usually isn't true.


Lightswitch: does the arrow over tilde represent "common" and how should it be wired

Do NOT wire it that way.

This PDF shows the proper way to wire that type of dimmer.

Single dimmer switch:

Dimmer with a second switch:


What's the best way to seal a drafty door on an uneven transition without interfering with opening/closing?

Twin Draft Guards do a fantastic job, and simply remove the rubber sweep in place now.

Photo credit: Amazon

Otherwise, many of these sweeps are adjustable, and you can move them up slightly by loosening the screws and sliding them up slightly... Not sure if it will still seal at that brass trim though (can't tell from the picture).


How can I route storm water away from my atrium?

Can you tear up the courtyard and put a leach field under it before laying down the floor, thus preserving the through-ground drainage now present?

Can you consider rain-permeable material as flooring? (Some ideas here and here, or  investigate other options.)

Other than those, the only idea I've got is a sump, a pump, and run the pump's output thru basement to outside.

(Or to drain and sewers if that's legal in your area; it isn't here.)


What humidity should I set my dehumidifier to?

30-40% in winter. Otherwise below 60% to keep mold away. Or even below 50% to avoid dust mites.

You can also see this question: Humidity Levels.


Those are 2x6's?  Not "old school" non-dimensioned 2x4's?  From my experience, most lath was about 1" wide... and if that lath is 1" it would seem to scale those to 2x4.

Regardless, yes you can confidently shore up that wall by creating a temporary wall adjacent to it.  If it is a basement floor it is likely to be sloped, so studs may have to be cut differently.  I'd recommend attaching a top plate to the bottom of the joists, and place a "floating" bottom plate directly below on the floor.  Cut the studs no more than 1/8" proud of the actual height, align the top under the floor joist, and pound in the bottom.  Since it is going in at an angle, the edges will dig in some, but at only an 1/8" long it will be minimal.

You will likely have to repeat the process on the opposite side of the wall, since the joists are "lapped", and the other side is essentially independent.  You'll know that you've accomplished your goal when the original stud starts to feel "loose", with only the nails holding it in place.  If you have a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) you'll know the weight has been supported when the kerf of a cut through the stud no longer tries to pinch itself shut.  Be wary of this method, though, because if there is still substantial pressure on the stud the kerf will begin to close as you pass the halfway point, which can result in kickback.

The shoring wall(s) should be at least as long as the section you're replacing.  If it is indeed termite damage of the bottom plate, I would wonder how the wood could have supported any weight.  I used to live in Wisconsin, where that type of construction (lath) was very common, as were full basements.  Termites were unheard of, however.

Now I live in South Carolina.... Termite heaven.  However, basements are very rare here... most homes are built on crawl spaces or slabs.  If it is indeed termite damage and not just dry rot, I would highly recommend a thorough investigation of the rest of the house.  The bottom plate in the center of a basement likely wouldn't have been a point of entry unless there is a crack in the floor nearby.  If it was the point of entry, the termites would likely have began tunneling up the studs themselves as the colony grew and spread.

Look for "mud tunnels" or other very well defined tunnels chewed through the wood.  If you find them, expect that they have also munched on other areas of the house.  Hopefully it's just dry rot!


What causes "toothpick streaks" when spray painting already-painted metal?

Something is causing the layers of paint to repel away from the areas, leaving a significantly thinner coat.  There are three phenomena at work.

surface contaminants, such as oil, wax, silicones, etc.
A glossy surface, which after all is designed to prevent dirt and contaminants from sticking.
fundamental differences in the adhesion or absorption of paint due to different surfaces.

You cure that with a three step process:

First, you sand it sufficiently to remove gloss, rust and contaminants like silicones.
Second,  you wipe down with a strong enough solvent to remove oils, waxes, and the like.  This solvent must not leave residue.   A two-cloth cleaning is best to assure you're not just swirling the contaminants around.
Third, you use primer to form a surface that is consistent in regards to absorbing paint and adhesion, if those issues exist.


How to repair (or hide) chipped kitchen cabinets

Yes.  You get new cabinet doors.  You can go the more expensive route and order them from a custom place (made to order are about $50-80 a door for pine depending on size).

You can also go to your nearest salvage store and match their cabinets or doors.  Of course you will have to alter some.

There is just no efficient to repair chipboard.  You would basically have to glue edging onto the cabinets and there would have to be extra material on the inner doors.  It would be ghetto, not look good and not last long.


Add new main load center for EV charging

If you supply from the 500mcm you could use the 10' tap rule as listed in the NEC 240.21.1 chargers are a continuous load so you would need to size the wire at 125% of the nameplate for the 2 chargers as a minimum (the wire size can not be below 1/10 ampacity but you are fine here) so your plan sounds good.


For typical use up to 1 Gig., CAT 5e or CAT 6 will work fine, and they can be mixed together without any problem.
Use the right tools for the job!
Get a Tester
It is incredibly easy to miss a wire or get two wires swapped. It happens to the best of us. A tester is worth every penny. When I started with Ethernet twisted pair networks many years ago, my first tester cost a few hundred $ and was worth every penny. The good news is that now they have gotten dirt cheap, so that they can make sense even for occasional use. I currently have a Klein tester:

and I've also got some cheap almost throwaway testers like this:

Almost any of them will do a reasonable job of telling you if things are wired correctly or not (and if not, what wires are wrong). The more expensive models can catch other types of errors, mains voltage on the line (ouch!), and more.
And while we're at it, if you don't already have one, get a
Punch Tool:

As with the tester, if you get a better quality tool it will last longer and might be a little easier to use. But for once-in-a-while usage, a cheap one will do just fine and will be a lot easier and a lot more reliable than trying to get wires onto a jack using a screwdriver or some other not-designed-for-the-job tool.


Put mortar on cement board for outdoor kitchen

It would be like doing Sheetrock. Make sure to have the edges along the sides of the cement board meet. (Not the ends). Then use Fiberglas mesh tape and skim coat. If you use the edges there is a slight indent so the joint won't be noticeable. Butting the ends will cause a bulge that will require a much thicker coat to hide the joint. If you don't use the mesh tape it will crack and every seam will show in a few months. tape like this.


Ceiling Fan Wiring with Remote Control & 2 wall switches

It sounds like you are converting from a fan that did not have a remote control to one that does.

In many older fan/light setups, power came to the wall switch with just two wires, hot (black) and neutral (white). There usually was also a ground wire, most commonly bare, but sometimes green. In many cases the incoming hot line was connected to two switches, one to control the fan and one to control the lights. The cable from the switches to the ceiling usually had three wires (plus a ground). The neutral wire was for both the fan and light, but the hot lines were separate. They are most often black and red. There is no firm rule  as to which goes to which.

In the ceiling box, the white wire was connected to the white wires from the light and the fan. The hot wires are separately connected to the hot from the fan and the hot from the light. Those hot wires may be the same or different colors, usually black, red and sometimes blue (or even a striped color).

In modern fans with remote controls, the whole fan/light assembly is often set up with no wall switch. In those cases, you follow the diagram in your question using just a black (hot) and a white (neutral), plus a ground going to the remote controller in the fan unit itself. On, off, and level control for the fan and light are all controlled from the remote. If you want this setup, you can remove the switches, and in the box that held the switches, connect the black wire bringing power to the switch directly to the black wire going to the ceiling fan unit. Leave the red wire that was attached to the second switch unconnected, cap it with a wire nut, and put a blank cover over the old switch box.

You can also leave a wall switch in the mix. In that case, the wall switch is a master - when it is off, everything is off. When it is on, you then can control the various features with the remote, even turning everything off. But you only need one switch. Either remove the second switch and use a cover plate that has one side blank, or leave the second switch unconnected but in there filling the hole.

If you plan to use the remote, you can skip the red wire in the ceiling, just cap it off with a wire nut. If you want direct control of the light and fan from the wall switches, you can usually skip the controller unit in the fan unit, but you lose control of speed and light level.

SUPPLEMENT

Based on further feedback from the OP, connect the black wire in the ceiling box to the black wire on the remote unit in the fan. Then wire the remote as shown on Tester101's diagram.  Note that the ceiling wire go to the remote and the reomte wires go to the fan/light unit. Cap the red wire in the ceiling. Use the switch that has the black wire on both terminals and ignore the switch that has a red wire on one of the terminals (or remove it and cover the opening).


Oh dear. That's an unfortunate detail. :( I'm afraid DA01 is actually correct, the proper solution is tear out and properly rebuild. The proper approach to this would have been to either stop the barge end (the gable end overhang) several inches above the lower roof so the bottom could be properly enclosed and the lower roof properly flashed. This would not be a good detail architecturally though.

Another approach would be to fully extend the barge end so that it is actually fully framed into the lower roof, then flashing applied around the intersection. The barge end trim could extend a bit over the flashing, stopping short of the lower roof an inch or so. But the main structure is actually physically connected to the lower roof.

Those are the correct options, which involves a lot of remedial work and undoing much of what has been done in this area. If need be, you could do a stop gap treatment that will seal off the gap for now. This is far from ideal, and proper treatment should certainly be done when it comes time to re-roof.

This would involve fitting carefully shaped wood shims into the gaps to give the appearance the barge end had been framed into the lower roof. The outward facing shims could be toenailed in place, but the parts under the soffit would be just a pressure fit or sort of glued in with caulking. There will likely still be small gaps that need to be filled with caulk. Use a paintable caulk so when it's done and painted, it will not appear to be a patch job from any distance.

I don;t like this final option at all, but I understand if you are unwilling to do a proper fix at this point and thus offer this suggestion.


How to wire Two dimmers controlling a string of recessed light?

As @Tester101 says, with conventional dimmers, you can only have one dimmer in a circuit if the fixture (or set of fixtures) is being controlled from more than one location.

If you are switching from two locations, you also need to use 3-way switches for both the plain switches and dimmers (many dimmers are 3-way compatible).

There are specialized dimmers that work as master and slave units. These do allow dimming from multiple locations, but you need to use a set of matched units. These are also much more costly than basic 3-way dimmers.

Finally, if you are running remote switches that only connect back to the first set of switches, you need x/4 cable, not x/3. Two wires serve as travelers, one as the common return and one as neutral.  While not every switch requires a neutral, code now requires it as a hedge against future active devices. If you do not need the neutral, simply cap it in the box.


Could wind be causing my high efficiency furnace exhaust to back up into the house?

I found a wind neutral pipe cap (right in photo) and installed it six years ago, and at least five major PNW storms ago.  It has performed flawlessly and required no maintenance.

It has a geometric baffle design which neutralizes excess air infiltration/exfiltration by balancing air flow somehow, regardless of direction.  I think it is this one.


Are there locations in a residence where a non tamper resistant receptacle can still be used?

While Article 406.11 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles in Dwelling Units. existed in NEC 2008, it was revised as Article 406.12 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles in Dwelling Units. in NEC 2011. And it says Tamper-Resistant Receptacles are required in all areas listed in Article 210.52

National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 210 Branch Circuits
210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets.
(A) General Provisions.

kitchen
family room
dining room
living room
parlor
library
den
sunroom
bedroom
recreation room
or similar room or area of dwelling units

(B) Small Appliances
(C) Countertops
(D) Bathrooms
(E) Outdoor Outlets
(F) Laundry Areas
(G) Basements and Garages
(H) Hallways

With the following exceptions.

Ex.: Receptacles in the following locations aren’t required to be tamper-resistant:
(1) Receptacles located more than 5½ ft above the floor.
(2) Receptacles that are part of a luminaire or appliance.
(3) A receptacle located within dedicated space for an appliance that in normal use isn’t easily moved from one place to another.
(4) Nongrounding receptacles used for replacements as permitted in 406.4(D)(2)(a).


What can be done about a milky residue left on engineered flooring after cleaning?

Oh my. That is terrible. I'm assuming the floor was really unfinished. I'd confirm that because putting harsh cleaners on a finished piece can look like that. I've personally never seen a oil/wax finish look that bad before buffing but I'd say it at least needs to be buffed. More concerning is why they wouldn't oil/wax every inch. It stops well shy of the base boards. If it was unfinished,  every inch needs to be finished or will always look multi colored. The more I think about it, the more I would spend the money to have someone come out that specializes in wood flooring to evaluate it. I don't think your guy has much experience with wood flooring.


How to reduce maximum power rating of dishwasher for use with photovoltaics inverter?

From an efficiency standpoint you would be way better off to use the sun to heat the water up instead of converting to electricity in the middle of the process. Modify the dishwasher to accept the solar heated water instead of dumping any electricity into the heater coil.

To get even more efficient adopt a washing strategy with cold water cleaning in a basin followed by drying in the sun.


Does my extension cord have too much internal resistance?

A few relevant facts:

The maximum current of the extension cord is the current where it produces some specified temperature increase above ambient, possibly 10 or 20 degrees C. (Or some specified voltage drop from one end to the other, hopefully not more than 10 V).
Snow is a fairly good insulator, so once it has covered the extension cord, all the heat produced by the cord will be contained around the cord. This means the cord temperature will rise more than it would if the cord were surrounded by air.
Snow (typically) falls only when the air temperature is in a fairly narrow temperature range around the freezing point of water. So it won't normally take much added heat to start melting new-fallen snow.

These three facts mean that what you saw does not necessarily indicate a problem.

But of course you should make sure the current load is no more than the cord is rated for, and that the two ends of the cord are both well protected from water intrusion if you're going to use it with snow falling or on the ground.


This is really NEC language in disguise, so we can look there for details

While you are reading the Florida Residential Building Code, which is based on the International Residential Code, the section numbers in the IRC that begin with E are special in that they are basically a subset of the NEC, applicable only to residential buildings:

  This Electrical Part is a compilation of provisions extracted from the 2017 edition of the NEC.

As a result, for further guidance in interpreting the Electrical Part of the IRC, we turn to the correlating NEC sections (cited in brackets), starting with 210.11(C)(2):

  (2) Laundry Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of
  branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least
  one additional 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to
  supply the laundry receptacle outlet(s) required by 210.52(F).
  This circuit shall have no other outlets.

This clearly states that the laundry small appliance branch circuit shall have no other outlets on it, which means that it cannot supply any lighting loads.


If the wire is fried, it's probably weak and should be removed and replaced. The indicator lights serve as a safety device to give you a visual that the oven/stove is on. It would not be wise to just disconnect it. Cut the burnt piece of wire and disconnect it from the light and take it to an appliance repair shop to get the proper heat range wire and connector. Then hook it back up with a wire nut. Never smart to bypass safety lights, someone could get burned real bad or it could just start a fire.


Your leak rate seems to be too slow for the dye tracing method you describe.
You should place temporary patches over any suspect locations and observe which patch gets tightened by water pressure.
Almost any watertight flexible membrane and temporary watertight attachment will do. I would use cut-up garbage bags and duct tape. It only has to last for 24 hours or so.
Be sure to trap a lot of water under each patch when you apply it. The next day, you will find the patch covering the leak has been flattened like a vacuum pack while all the other patches are still blobbing about like happy octopi.


It's a Solid State Relay - put an actual load (the light, or some other light, etc.) on it to test function - a voltmeter drawing no current may well give misleading readings (with a load present the voltmeter should give an accurate reading.)

For the sake of testing, use a 9V battery if the operation of the sensor is questionable. With battery connected, the load should be on, with battery disconnected, load should be off.

For the sensor, you will either need to drill a hole or mount it differently so that it can work, or change to a different type of sensor. If the sensor is "aways on" and it's connected, then the relay will be always on as well, so that may be the other answer to question #1.

Edit - regarding sensor.

You need to PROVIDE some Voltage for the (sensor's) relay to switch. The Sensor output is a "dry relay contact" - it's a switch, that's all. The sensor does not apply any power to it.

The SSR's input is looking for 3-32V dc.

You need to connect some source of 3-32V DC to the sensor so that when the sensor closes its output, the voltage is applied to the SSR's input. The 48V is a maximum rating on the sensor's switch, but the 32V rating on the SSRs input rules this one.

IF and ONLY IF you are feeding the sensor DC (it appears to take AC or DC) you could connect from the - power for the sensor to the #4 - terminal of the SSR, and connect from the + power for the sensor to one yellow wire on the sensor, and connect the other yellow wire on the sensor to the #3 + terminal on the SSR. Though I have to say at this point this is also verging into "you appear to be wiring things up that you don't quite understand, and you can get hurt doing that" territory. The SSR input is DC only - if you are feeding the sensor AC, you need a different source of DC, connected the same way (- to -, + to relay, relay to +)


I guess the first step is to find out everything that's on this circuit, is the breaker a ground fault breaker or a regular breaker with a ground fault recepticle. If it's a regular breaker and you changed it, then it's not like an older one getting weak. So there has to be something else on this circuit drawing excess power. Flip the breaker off and start testing everything to see what's not working, recepticles as well. In the event the breaker is a ground fault breaker, you need to remove the ground fault recepticle.


I'd suggest ear protection, eye protection, and if you're doing a lot of cutting or particularly sensitive to sawdust, dust protection (p95 or better). Steel toe/steel shank boots are generally good on a worksite, but they aren't specific to circular saws.

If you are worried about cutting into your legs or worse, you need to think again about how to use a saw. Seriously. It would take a lot of bad technique to hack into your leg.

PS, circular saw blades don't fall out in use unless you've set up the saw distressingly wrong.


Is 2/0 wire required for a 200A panel with a 150A nominal load?

According to 2017 NEC Article 310.15 (B)(7). The sizing of the conductors can permitted to be sized in accordance with 301.15(B)(7) (1)through (7). Meaning it must meet the requirements of (1)-(7). If it does meet those requirements. Then a 200A service feeders taken from Table 310.15(B)(16) column 2 could be a 2/0.

The calculation would be 200A (which is normally a 3/0)*.83 (310.15(B)(7)(1))= 166A. Using Table 310.15 column 2 the next largest conductor would be a 2/0 (175A).

I really can't be more specific but you would have to detail all of the requirements of 310.15 (B)(7) (1)-(7). I am not sure what you mean with "local power authority" but if it is your authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) aka the electrical inspector. Then they have the final say about what is to be installed. I suggest you have your contractor and AHJ and reach a conclusion.

Hope this helps.


How to secure privacy lattice to top of existing fence gate?

My first choice would be rebuilding the gate with continuous stiles from bottom to top and diagonal brace running from the rail below the lattice to the bottom. You can reuse the boards and hardware, so it won't require extensive amounts of new lumber and will match the existing fence from the outside.

It's hard to say without seeing the framed side, but I suspect any repair is going to be unsatisfactory in the long run. That lattice box is just too much mass to be unsupported. Sistering a second two by to the bottom of the lattice frame and finish nailing through the boards will prevent it from moving independently, but you're really asking for trouble if people are rough with the gate.


How can I prevent makeup air vents from exhausting conditioned air?

At my last home I had the same problem but only 2 fireplaces, I ended up adding a powered make up air vent that ran for 30 minutes. I had a high efficiency wood stove insert the extra passes across the tubing reduced the draft and this stove had a direct air vent to the fire box, I added a small 3" fan on a 30 minute timer to slightly pressurize the home until the stove was hot I would leave the door cracked open until the fire was going then close the door. I had tried a passive intake on the suction side of the furnace but that did not provide enough pressure especially if the kitchen or bathroom vent fans were on. I used a timer like a bathroom vent timer I think it had 6 different settings but I found the stove always was hot enough after 30 minutes so I could open the door and smoke would not back draft. As far as your fresh air ducts there will be times with your current setup there won't be a flow into the utility room the only time I would expect there to be any positive pressure would be if there is a make up air on the suction side of the furnace but I doubt one would be there since your room is already vented. Normally when we add venting one duct will be close to the floor and one close to the ceiling. I don't think I would want to add back draft dampers to these vents because they are passive very low pressure and any restrictions could cause problems with not enough fresh air for the furnace combustion and if there is not enough flow carbonmonoxide can build up very unsafe.
I have seen similar problems in New homes because our building methods seal the homes tight usually a small make up air duct on the suction or return side of the furnace is sufficient but this only works while the furnace blower is running, you don't want a large volume of make up air being pulled into the home as this will waste energy, so a powered vent may be your best option.


How should I run Cat5e cable between rafters?

You should be fine if you're just a tiny bit careful.

You should not notch these, but careful drilling should be perfectly fine.

It's totally okay, for example, to trim the ends off of these--they aren't supporting the roof load, only supporting the overhang itself. (drilling through the trusses on the inside is another matter entirely!)

My first thought was I'd use a bit just large enough to poke the Cat5e cable through, drill exactly in the center of the top chord (the "beam") about 2/3 of the way back from the end.

In general, you don't want to drill too close to the ends of a beam (or you run the risk of it splitting). If you're only drilling a 1/8th (or so) inch hole, back away from the edge, I can't imagine this being a problem.

Or drill two small holes or one slightly larger one and pull 2 cables.

But why not consider using conduit, just for a bit of future proofing? Maybe you decide you want to pull an HDMI cable six months from now, or something else?

Hardly anybody used conduit when they pulled co-ax cable through their walls a couple of decades ago, and now you'd much rather have HDMI running through the walls. With conduit, pulling different or additional cable would be a much easier task.

You could just pull 1/2" or 3/4" EMT, or maybe you could even get away with 1" (3/4" might be just big enough to pull something with pre-attached ends like HDMI). EMT would be the most stable option.

You could run a raceway under the eave, but if it's plastic you might really be surprised at the amount of thermal expansion and contraction it will undergo as the seasons change, and you could end up with it warped and pulling away from the wall.

I would avoid the grey PVC electrical conduit because it expands and contracts to an extent you wouldn't believe and you have to use expansion couplings and leave everything loose enough (bigger holes) that it doesn't bind.

Another option might be ribbed flexible low-voltage PVC conduit (it'll typically be orange or blue).

But the more I think about it, I'd just use 1/2" or 3/4" metal conduit.

You obviously want to pull at least Cat5e, but you might consider pulling Cat6A or even Cat7 just to be future-proof. Cat5e is fine for Gigabit Ethernet (up to 125 Megabytes per second in both directions simultaneously). Cat6A will definitely support 10Gbps Ethernet (over a Gigabyte per second), and presumably future Ethernet enhancements will be able to push even more over Cat7. Cat 6A and Cat 7 are harder to terminate, with all the shielding and the heavier jacket, but you're not talking about doing very many terminations.

What I'm really getting at is that without pulling any additional cables, especially if you pull 2 now, you can use the cable you pull as a trunk link between two Ethernet switches to transparently connect your whole house into one network, and in a home setting you will never suffer any performance problems doing that.

As far as drilling these rafter ends: If you think about a steel I beam, virtually all of the load is carried in the top and bottom plates of the beam, and the material between the plates just serves to keep them apart from each other. That's why the I beam can have all the material removed from both sides instead of being one massive solid beam. In fact the massive beam would be weaker because the top and bottom surfaces aren't really any stronger than in an I beam, but the beam would have to support many times the weight just to hold itself up.

There's less load in that vertical section of the beam the further you get from the edges, and virtually no load in the dead center. Manufactured floor joists operate on the same principle and that's why you'll see surprisingly large holes cut in the middle of those joists without it affecting the integrity of the floor (presuming the holes aren't drilled too close to the ends).

If you cut a notch in the top or bottom plate of the joist, on the other hand, you've compromised it, or ruined it. In the case of manufactured trusses and joists, the manufacturer will have very specific instructions on where you can drill, how big, how many holes, how far apart they have to be, etc.

But here, you're talking about the overhang. The structural load of the roof is resting on the wall and you could cut most of that overhang off without affecting it.


Can I build a mitered aluminum glass frame from glass edge banding?

What you describe as to structure can be built if you have:

A source for the aluminum extrusion frame material. If no source you may need to design its cross section profile yourself and then finance a manufacturer to extrude the material for you.
A source for the corner brace piece. For a custom designed extrusion you would need to design around some existing corner or design and get custom corner pieces stamped out. Be prepared for a tooling charge for custom parts.
The tools needed to cut the aluminum extrusions and a press to push in the corner brackets. Depending upon the method used to retain the corner pieces you may also need  a tool to crimp or rivet the part in place.
Patience to put it together with the glass panels.

What is not at all certain is if this will provide the protection against glass breakage and shattering that you desire. Obviously the design of the frame will need a good bit of engineering modeling to fully understand the rigidity and strength of the frame to protect the glass. It is almost assured the slimmer, thinner and lower profile the frame the less protection it will offer to the glass. There will also be considerations on the type of glass used, its panel size and thickness.

Another factor that also plays into the protection level is if the frame will include a rubber or vinyl isolation strip between the frame and the glass. This alone will likely require considerable engineering work and experimentation.


Converting two-vent fireplace insert into one-vent: how much combustion air access does it need?

I think you have considered all the right aspects.  However, even in our mild climate (Pacific Northwest), we opted to run both 2 inch flex lines, but we had only 12 feet to go.  It is our primary heat source and during our coldest nights we really appreciate the lack of draw through the cracks and crannies.

There is no harm in creating a draw through the surround, but a 2 inch circle seems like it is an invitation for trouble:  what 3 year-old could not resist dropping a candy bar or an unfinished hot dog through there?

Maybe it could be a slit the width of the side instead.


Rule # one with cats: they will find a way!!!, just to spite you.
I found these on a popular home store site and could be a solution. You might have to do some cutting but you could fasten them to the deck railing with some strong cable ties.


I've had similar problems from several smoke detectors at different job sites. Here is what I learned in the process:

Smoke alarms have expiration dates. That is they will work for a finite period of time before you will need to replace them. 5-6 years approximately is the length of time to replace (or when the manufacturer recommends). Look on the back side for a production date.

There should be a code explanation for the blinking lights or the beeping on the back of the unit. Most beeping is for a low battery that needs replacing.

RC states all new houses will be fitted with battery back-up powered smoke alarms with the main power supply as house current. Further all smoke alarms will be Daisy Chained so that when one alarm is activated all the other alarms will sound an alert.

All alarms are not created the same. If you purchase the least expensive alarm you can expect to replace much sooner or have more problems with it than a more costly alarm. Most manufacturers warranty their devices for no more than a year and most will replace a faulty one with proof of purchase.


How to figure out how to wire a 2 wire furnace to 3 wire thermostat

Well, in the old wiring system, it doesn't really matter which wire goes to which terminal on the low voltage side of the transformer. Therefore, your installer didn't really care if they mixed up R and C on the transformer.

Which, I think, is exactly what your installer did.  Note that the transformer has an R and C terminal labeled.  Assuming the red wire  goes to the thermostat, that belongs on R.  If the white wire goes to the furnace relays, it belongs on C.

It should be straightforward from there.


How to prevent leaving hot tap/faucet running?

The very best solution for this is to install the newest type of faucet that has an infrared sensor that detects your hands near the faucet and turns on the water. When the hands leave the area of the faucet the water turns back off.

These generally operate on a battery so no special wiring is needed and as I understand the batteries last a good length of time. You can find many examples of these faucets online by using search terms of:

Automatic Faucet

Sensor Faucet

Touchless Faucet


Can screwing too far (about 1.5 inches) into a stud can weaken it?

Only a small fraction of the stud is necessary for the bearing strength of the wall. Every plumbing and electrical run in your house goes through much larger holes drilled through studs.

If your cabinet is solid, your stud is fine.


Why is the white wire hot in my switch box?

By US conventions, black should be hot, white should be neutral, and red should be alternate hot. Normally.

When you see a switch connecting white and black directly,  this is a "switch loop", where hot was brought to the fixture first, then down to the switch; the switched hot is brought back up to the fixture. If they were competent, the electrician should have put a black mark r tag on that white wire to indicate that it too is hot.

The second example is apparently also a switch loop, but for a "three-way" switching circuit; see other answers for descriptions of how using two double-throw switches and both hot and alternate hot permits either of two switches to turn the light on or off.

(Don't ask why we call it three-way when it has two on states or four states total...)


Securing a large screw hook in drywall without an anchor

Cut a 1"x 4" board just long enough to fit between the wall on the right and garage door on the left.

Attach each end with 2 1/2" screws into the studs of said wall and door frame.

Screw hook, ( or hooks ) into the board.

Other wise like i said in the comments, take it to the store to size and anchor, i have seen ones big enough for that size hook.

Be aware that an anchor may loosen up over time as well from repeated hanging and removing of the things suspended on it.


Why does my water heater stop after a few minutes?

It turns out someone had placed a board that was blocking the junkers' vent, so the thing was doing auto-shut-off to prevent over-heating. It's working fine now!


How do I read the specifications for this Panasonic microwave trim kit?

Click on the link you posted at the top of your question. Look at the frame pictures to the left. In the middle is a small picture. Click on it and it shows the a,b,c,d,e, etc.

Good luck


Putting up my new ceiling fan into light fixture

The deep metal box cannot be used directly under a joist.

Whatever box you use should have its outer edge flush with the ceiling, or close to flush. The original plastic fan box which straddled the ceiling joist would have worked if the hardware for the new fixture had a metal mounting strap which could be secured into the ceiling joist through the slots used for the two long fan bracket screws.

The second plastic box (already installed) should work, but you would have to use a metal mounting strip (should be in hardware for light fixture) and use screws into the joist through the slots.

In original construction when only a standard light-weight fixture is to be installed, the box for the light is usually installed next to or between ceiling joists, but a basic installation of a fan box is a special fan box installed under (straddling) a joist. The boxes are different because of that, but you can adapt a fan box to hold a standard light fixture.


Color adjusting LED ceiling light intermittent issues

You appear to have some defective fixtures.

Return those ones and get hopefully non-defective replacements. Quality control is not what it used to be, so shipping defective products to stores is all too common these days, and you become the "quality control" by returning the defective ones under warranty. Or profits go up if you got past the warranty time before finding the defect.

Welcome to the 21st century.


what is water line germ removal procedure

Common 5.25% hypochlorite "liquid laundry bleach" (unscented) is the chlorine source that is typically used. It not used (and actually not even most effective) at full strength, but rather added to water in the system to achieve a certain concentration for a certain contact period.

Sources appear to vary between suggesting 10, 50 or 200 ppm chlorine concentration for a "shock treatment." Contact time suggestions range from 2-24 hours.

52.5 ppm would be 1 ml (5.25%) bleach per liter of water.

Do not exceed 200 ppm or 24 hours. More is not better beyond those, and there is debate regarding even going that high or for that long.

Flush the system throughly after disinfecting with chlorine bleach - there should be no remaining smell of chlorine.


Removing grout with oscillating tool: too narrow/too high?

It can be done but it will take time and patience.

Where delicacy is a must, power tools are not used as my preference. You could use a grout saw, But I usually use a heavy duty razor knife and change the blades often. You may use a dozen blades perhaps doing a 3'X3' shower.


Is there a way to remove the top of this barrel?

Then, based on your comment that you only need the lid as a dust cover, I would cut around the top of the wall as close to the lid as possible.

Once separated then remove any excess on the lid to leave a slight taper to help the lid "sit" neat after.

I have cut these with a hand wood saw before, a bit boring but the plastic usually cuts well. I found a jigsaw too "bouncy" and it would not be close enough to the lid.

I did 8 of these barrels for my parents for rainwater and made a tool on a broom handle to hold the nut & washer to screw the fitting into so the two original holes were fine, no need to take the top off... Depends on what your fitting is I suppose...


How do I draft proof a “drop down” loft hatch

I've seen solutions that go over top of the drop down-stairs.  You can find them by searching for 'attic stair insulation kit'.

If you were to go completely home-made, you can get sheets of rigid styrofoam, then make a box that you can drop over the hole before you put the stairs back up.  If the floor is flat and smooth, that might be enough on its own, otherwise you can put down some weather stripping and find a way to secure it down.  (maybe eye hooks?)


Are my outside HVAC units and condensation drain PVC pipes set up correctly?

Condensate drip and accumulation are normal, especially during the summer months.

It is also very normal to find the drain lines terminated close to the house as you have described. Whether it is acceptable I guess could be argued based on the volume of water in question and where it is collecting.

If the accumulation of water is getting worrisome, you can buy some small diameter PVC pipe and reroute or extend your existing drain lines. You can even get creative, such as routing them into existing downspout drain lines, or directly burying the condensate drain lines themselves.

If you are worried about exterior-drained condensate freezing, you could bury a standard 4" drainage pipe to redirect your condensate. This pipe could accumulate your condensate via a catch basin, direct piping, or other means. The probability of an entire 4" pipe freezing, especially in the southeastern US, would be approaching zero.

Be sure to maintain a good slope when extending any lines, and drain to daylight any buried lines.

Additionally, you can drain your condensate to some acceptable locations inside your home, such as a plumbing drain (not a plumbing vent stack!).

Use this as a reference:


Installed dimmer switch caused another switch to stop working

You really need a multi-meter or a non-contact voltage tester to find out which wires are hot, but if you want to you could try to do this without testing.

The white wires are "neutrals" (not grounds). Looks like you have bare grounds connected to the metal box with screws in the back. Leave those alone.

Do the B, R and W wires in the right cable go to the light in your room? If so, the B & W wires in the cable to the left are the feed to the hall and the other bedroom. The B is hot and the W is neutral. Somehow you disconnected the feed and did not reconnect it.

Probably the B and the R on the right were connected to the original switch. If so, one or the other of the B and R is always hot and the other is the switched hot which controls the light in your room.

The B in the left hand cable should be connected to the always hot from the right cable. The two W wires should be connected to each other (and to nothing else).


How do I repair latch lock that has unscrewed?

Turned out that there was a screw at the other end of the bolt that release the two metal sides which allowed me to remove the plate and attach pliers to part A and screw part C back on.


Interesting model.  Empire furnaces are tremendous because they run without any electricity at all.  I really dislike that this one needs electricity to ignite (thus: useless in an outage), but maybe it can be made to work on a solar/battery system, in which case, good riddance pilot.  For that matter, the ignition current is tiny, and could itself be supplied by a local battery topped up from the thermocouple.  Who knows.

On any Empire furnace (pilot or electronic), the furnace is fundamentally a convection unit. The fan is a "bolt-on" and is merely to distribute heat more effectively.  On one of my Empires, if the power fails, simply, the fan doesn't run, the heater still heats the house.  Also, the fan "trails" firing and quitting of the gas burner, only removing heat when the heat exchanger is hot enough to require it.

In your case, the fan sputters on/off due to an effect called "heat soak".  It efficiently cools the outside of the heat exchanger, but the inside is hotter.  When the fan shuts off, heat is still coming out of the heat exchanger.  That heat raises the temperature of the heat exchanger skin, which causes the fan to start up again.  Rinse wash repeat until temperatures equalize.

But I would expect fan or its thermo-switch design to account for that.  You may have a defect in the thermo-switch, or it may be misinstalled. The fan may have a delay circuit which is defective.


What is this plastic insert called? (Secures a wood screw to a cabinet door.)

They are called plastic dowels

There are different sizes for different brands of hinges. Also note that they take special screws.

Search hinge plastic dowels and add the brand of hinge, if you know it.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Should I superchlorinate a freshly filled pool?

2000 gals is a lot for a couple of 1" tabs to chlorinate. I put one to two tablets into a 350-gallon hot tub and sometimes even that isn't enough to maintain proper chlorination. I'd be looking at one to two 3" tablets for pretty much anything you'd call a "pool".

The short answer to your question is, yes, you want to put a "start-up" dose of chlorinating agent into your pool to get it to the proper chlorine level (or slightly higher); from there, a "maintenance" dose of chlorine such as from the tablets will keep the proper level.

The longer answer is that there is more to conditioning a pool than chlorinating it. The chemistry beneath the surface has been the subject of many a doctoral dissertation, but the products available commercially, while not idiot-proof, are hard to get wrong if you follow the instructions. The steps you follow, in order, are:

Balance pH - The water should generally be slightly higher pH than neutral, generally between 7.2 and 7.6. Too low and you risk an acidic environment which can damage metal parts like your pump. Too high and the water will cause ichy, dry skin (or in the extreme, chemical burns) because the high pH breaks down natural body oils (a process called saponification, which is the same as is used to make soap).

The typical "pH Down" (acidifying) product for home use is sodium bisulfate, NaHSO4, which is an "acid salt" based on a partially-neutralized strong acid (sulfuric), which works as a weak acid in water. This product, in powder form, is safer to use and store than liquid muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, HCl, which is commonly used in large public pools where you don't have time to mess around with dissolving several pounds of a powdered product. Muriatic acid also reduces total alkalinity (useful if your water comes from an aquifer, less so if you're already fighting soft water from a marsh or river). "pH Up" is typically a weak base, such as sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), while lye (sodium hydroxide) is used commercially; sodium bicarbonate also increases total alkalinity.

Work in small amounts and let the chemical dissolve and mix thoroughly in the water as you go. Also, never pour acidifying products directly into your skimmer; the concentration needed to balance a full pool will make the water in the circulation loop highly acidic for long enough to cause serious damage to your pump's impeller and other circulation parts. Alkaline products, not so much; the alkali metal cation already attached to the hydroxide or carbonate anion is more attractive than the transition metals of the impeller, heater etc, so these are typically skimmer-safe. Just don't ever put any balancing product (any maintenance product, really) in the water while anyone's in it.
Buffer - You need the right amount of alkali metal in the water, and of a "chlorine buffer". Basically, you want the water "hard", but not so hard that you have to deal with scaling on a regular basis. Chloride salts, like calcium and magnesium chloride, both add some chlorine to the water, and more importantly provide a pH buffer with the alkali metal, giving acidic compounds (like many chlorinating compounds) something to dissolve besides the metal parts in your pump. Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), in addition to increasing pH, also increases total alkalinity. Too little alkalinity can cause large swings in pH as chlorinating agent is added and then burns off. Too much alkalinity raises pH, reduces the amount of "free" chlorine that can actually do the disinfecting work, and causes cloudy water, scaling, and itchy dry skin.

As for the chlorine buffer (often called a "stabilizer"), cyanuric acid is generally used. Cyanuric acid reacts with chlorine to form stable "chlorinated cyanurates", which are good disinfecting agents and also prevent the chlorine being lost from the water as gaseous chloramines. These products are generally skimmer-safe; you may avoid putting straight cyanuric acid in the skimmer, but cyanuric acid is a weaker acid than hydrochloric (enough that it has a negligible net effect on pH when added to properly-balanced water). Watch the amount of cyanuric acid you put in; unlike the chlorine compounds, cyanuric acid is ridiculously stable and will not "boil off" (which is why it's used), and won't readily react with the alkalinity in the water, so too much of it cannot be negated by adding something else; the only way to get rid of it is a partial drain and refill to dilute it.
Shock - The general goal of "shocking" the pool is to temporarily superchlorinate it, which kills bacteria and algae; the normal level of chlorination is a deterrent to bacterial growth, but certain nasties are chlorine-resistant, and the amount needed to guarantee the water is sanitary is a bit much for humans (and their swimsuits). Shock is also designed to "burn off" relatively quickly, carrying the organic byproducts of bacterial destruction with them (that "chlorine smell" of a pool is the smell of organic chloramines evaporating, the result of the shock doing its job to clean the water). The end result should be clear, blue water, free of chloramines which turn the water green, and with a free chlorine level (unattached Cl- ions) of between 3-5ppm.

A variety of actual chemicals are used to shock water; sodium hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) and the related calcium hypochlorite are definitely effective, but tend to have detrimental effects on swimmers' skin, hair and swimsuits, and the distinctive "bleach smell" which is good for laundry, bad for swimming. Many powdered shocks have more complex, tailored chlorinating chemicals that act as disinfectants but not bleaches. Many powdered shock compounds also include a "clarifier", which is a substance that causes small particles (which normally have a small negative charge and repel each other) to group together into bigger particles, so they won't remain suspended in the water and can get caught in the filter. Most shocks also include a dedicated algaecide (see below). Shock is almost always skimmer-safe, but chlorinating agents can lower pH if there is an insufficient amount of an alkali buffer.

Once these three steps are performed, dip a test strip and verify that the water has the proper pH, hardness/alkalinity, total chlorine, and free chlorine. If there is too much chlorine and slightly low pH immediately after adding the shock, that's normal; within a couple hours of sunlight the chlorine level should go down to swimmable levels (and the pH should go up as the chlorine ions are removed). If there's WAY too much you added too much shock; make sure the pH isn't too acidic (still above 7; add some baking soda to counteract the acidity if it's too low, and you'll need to keep an eye on the pH balance) and keep people out of the water until free chlorine comes back down to 3-5ppm. There are "shock and swim" products designed to be swim-safe very soon after adding them; these usually use a "self-buffering" chlorinating chemical that reduces pH swings and the severity of the free chlorine spike, to prevent harmful levels of free chlorine while still being enough to "shock" the water free of contaminants.
Chlorinate - Most of the chlorine in your water at any given time should be added by shocking it. However, shock is generally short-lived and the amount of chlorine in the water will rapidly decrease after shock is added. To combat the loss of chlorine and stabilize the total/free chlorine levels, you use chlorine tablets, which dissolve in a time-release manner to add chlorine back into the system at a relatively constant rate. The number/size of chlorine tablets you need depends on the size of your pool, whether it normally stays covered or open, how much cyanuric acid you have, whether you have a dispenser (which further controls the amount of chlorine released into the pool by controlling the flow of water into the dispenser chamber with the dissolving tablets) etc. Like I said, chlorine tablets are not a replacement for shock and vice-versa. A chlorine tablet in the skimmer won't harm anything, but it may cause the tablet to dissolve too quickly, over-chlorinating the pool.
Algaecide - Included in many shock products and also available separately, the typical algaecide is a quaternary sanitizer that is more effective against multi-cellular algaes than chlorine alone, and is generally less harmful to humans (quat sanitizers are food-safe where bleach is not). If the test strip says the water's good, but the pool walls feel slimy, a dose of algaecide is usually the answer. Too much algaecide can cause a loss of chlorine (quaternary sanitizers are based on ammonia, and those chloramine gases I mentioned earlier that cause "burn-off" are chlorinated ammonium compounds) and can also mess with pH (remove chlorine from a balanced mixture, and the alkali metals left behind will react with the water itself to form hydroxides, raising pH). Despite this, algaecide is generally skimmer-safe.


How to wire a switch with two black wires and one yellow wire?

This is the same as your other single pole switches except it has one extra black wire that is sending power to someplace else.
One black wire brings the power into the box and the other black is connected to it on the switch, this is how it is getting power and sending to where it needs to go. The yellow should be the switched power or the the wire that is sending power to the fixture when you flip the switch on.
Does your new switch require a neutral (white) to operate correctly?
If not then;
Just wire it up the same. If your new switch does not have screw terminals but only wire leads then you wire all the blacks together with a wire nut. You will need to tie the ground on the new switch to the screw at the back of the box that the green wires are attached to.


Why does my kitchen faucet have low pressure after the water heater was replaced?

9 times out of 10, like Tester mentions, this is going to be the aerator. Unscrew it, run some water without it, and clean it before screwing it back on. There's all kinds of stuff that gets knocks around in the pipes when water is shutoff and things are added or replaced in the plumbing system, and the best place for them to end up is the kitchen sink aerator since it's so easy to fix.


Can I install a sub-panel with no ground to the main panel?

While the electrical code grandfathers existing installations based on the code at the time of installation, as soon as you start a new installation, you will be required to adhere to the current code.  With that in mind, regardless of the difficulty involved, you will be required to run a new line that meets all current requirements (wire type, size, burial depth, etc.) , including a dedicated ground.

If you are lucky, the existing cable is in a conduit, and assuming the new cable will fit (conduit size as required by code), you should be able to pull through a new cable with relative ease.

When in doubt, consulting a licensed electrician is always advisable.