Is it better to replace this flange or install a “repair kit”?

It looks like the flange might be screwed down (note the screws in the flange itself).
The repair flange you linked is a "screw-down" type where you have a raised flange and want to secure it to the subfloor. I'm not sure I'd use that type here (a tensioned "push-in" type would be easier) but I'm unconvinced you need to replace it.
The situation where you need to replace your flange is when the narrow part (where the flange bolts grip underneath to secure the toilet) is rusted out and no longer holds the flange bolts. This flange looks older, but it's metal and the narrow parts are intact. If you can fit new flange bolts on either side then you're fine to put a new wax ring in and re-mount it.
Why is your toilet moving then? Likely the floor isn't level and your toilet can move on the flange. Here's what I would do

Buy a new set of flange bolts and try to re-mount the toilet (dry fit it without the ring).
Once you've tightened as much as you dare, see if it still moves. Look at the base of the toilet for gaps. If you find gaps, add plastic toilet shims until it doesn't rock
If you still can't fix it with shims, then and only then would I consider adding a new flange. Start with a rubber tension replacement flange, since these are relatively easy to install


This is, without a doubt, a Moen brand valve. There are numerous trim options available in many finishes. You need to go to a good specialty plumbing shop, they will have some Moen trim items in stock and should be able to order many more items.

Bring your pictures and all old trim with you.


What type of paint to use when painting on a shiny veneer, to produce the least odour?

Solvent based primers are the way to go on top of Poly or other clear coat.  If you don't want to deal with the smell though you will need to sand it well and apply a surface prep fluid.  I personally use a product called no sand (yes I still sand before I use it).  This softens the top coat you are working with allowing a latex paint to stick better.  It will still not be as durable as it would with a solvent based primer.

If this is a high traffic shelf (a bookshelf that is used often for example) I would suggest finding a time you can sleep in another room and use the better primer, that said if it just holds pictures or decorations then you can get away with the method mentioned above just fine.

Make sure you read the directions on the no sand well.


If you look at the picture below you will see pex tubing.  This has become the industry norm in some areas of the US - I know some countries have adopted similar things and some haven't.  The compression fittings are supposedly made to last longer than than a soldered copper joints - jury is still out on that.  Let's see what complaints there are in 10-20 years.

My problem with these is the drinking water.  Copper does a great job of not letting bacteria grow in it and it has been used for years with no issues.  All of the plumbing going to sinks in my house is copper.  I use pex for toilets, showers, and things like that.

Some good links on coppers anti-bacterial qualities:

HowStuffWorks
ScienceDaily
Wikipedia

On the other side of the argument is the idea that PEX has issues in biofilm formation and passing on toxins/bacteria - California study here.  This side, I don't really buy that much because you can read counters for most things.  I just know that copper has a lot of good qualities and installing it isn't that big of a deal so will leave that for the main and drinking water.


Will installing a beam under my shed's floor framing eliminate the bounce?

If footings must go below the frost line, then I'd dig them at the edge, one on each side of the building in the middle of the 16 ft long side, and fill with concrete. Then use the truncated pyramid blocks, or other blocks on top to support a beam. Attach the beam loosely on to the joists above, then put jacks under each end and raise the beam (and the shed) until you can slide supporting blocks under the ends of the beam.

The particular footing I use from Lowes or HD has slots at a right angle for 2x lumber and a square for a 4x4 in the center. Here I am using one to support a cedar post (6" x 3.5") so I laid in a piece of PT 2x4 with notches cut out on the corners.


Purchase a new curb mounted unit of the same size as this old one (in some unique cases it may require a special order if your unit is an odd-ball size). Then
just remove the whole existing skylight from the existing curbing. Peel off the old foam sealer material that is on top of the curbing and then lay down new sealer strip. Finally set on the new skylight and screw through its side holes into the curbing to secure into place.


What do I need to know when buying fuse for 3-pin plug?

The standard fuses supplied with these plugs are normally rated at the circuit capacity of the supply outlet and associated wiring. They blow when the current exceeds that of the circuit and the current rating of the plug itself and the connected wiring.

Your idea to replace these with a current reading closer to the load rating is a good idea if the plug and cord is directly attached to the appliance or fixture load. If the plug and cord is part of an "extension cord" or "outlet strip" it may be more appropriate to set the amperage reading of the fuse closer to the rating of the plug / cord / outlet strip.

For a direct attached load only a general guideline can be given for the fuse rating. Certainly the current load listed on the name plate of the device is a very good starting place. But if the load is a motor or other inductive type load the startup current surge can be much higher than the listed running current level. This needs to be taken into account for fuse selection.

A final comment is that it would always be a good idea to leave some margin between fuse rating and running current. Fuses used at their rated level or more can age and eventually fail before expected.


Should I Use 3/4 Inch Tongue and Groove OSB for Exterior Sheathing

Structurally, it's not a problem. If there are windows, you may need bigger trim (surround) by 1/4". (By the way, most residential walls need to be 2x6 construction due to the energy code.)


Insulating a 2x4 wall with exterior rigid foam

Given that typical foams are R5 per inch, 4 inches of foam alone will exceed R-19. Rockwool in the stud spaces will help somewhat on top of that (with a thermal break at each stud, but an additional R11 or so between studs.)


Horizontal lines on ceiling, roof leaking

Ecnerwal is spot on.
While you figure out how to fix this poke a few holes through the ceiling and place a bucket underneath so the water can get through. It may seem worse initially but remember the water has to go somewhere. If it isn't coming through the ceiling then it's soaking into the drywall and insulation and the extra weight might bring the entire ceiling down to say nothing of damaging even more.
Jonathan


4 pair of cables lead to Ceiling fan box

You have a switch loop here

The white wire bundled in with the blacks along with the solo black wire are telltale signs of an old-style switch loop run using /2 cable from the fixture to the switch(es), with the white wire as the always hot and the black as the switched hot in your case. So, with the power off at the breaker:

Use a wrap of black electrical tape to mark the white wire nutted in with the blacks as a hot wire
Nut the ceiling fan black and blue (or just the black, if you don't have a light kit on your fan) wires to the lone black wire
Nut the ceiling fan white wire to the existing bundle of entirely white wires
And nut the ceiling fan green wire to the existing bundle of bare wires.


Try searching for "tri bolt".  These are somewhat standard hardware although I've never seen one at a big-box store.


Garage door down, will not open and no access inside

The emergency release cable on my garage door is inside the garage. When it is pulled, the door operates manually by lifting. If the springs are weak, it will take some effort to get the door moving.

You have two questions.

The first answer may be that your door has weak springs. A lever of some sort is indicated. Consider a two-by-four of some length, perhaps with a steel strap affixed to the end to get under the door. A fulcrum attached to the lever close to the end will give you some lifting to the door. Block the door at the height accomplished, then re-position the fulcrum, perhaps lengthening it to afford additional height. Block the door each time a gain is made. There are also devices known as fence post jacks which will allow straight vertical lifting once you have sufficient elevation to access the underside of the door. Even an old-style auto jack could be pressed into service, but I've not seen one of those in years.

At some point, you should be able to lift the door by hand, as the springs take over the load.

Rather than trashing the door should the above option be out of reach, consider to contact a garage door company for suggestions. With sufficient desperation, many other options are available. My neighbor has a bobcat type loader with fork-lift blades. If my door were stuck badly enough, it would certainly open under the force of the loader.

That leads my train of thought down another track. One could construct a simple set of wedges and tap them into place with a hammer. As the door began to lift, the wedges would be stacked onto additional spacers in order to continue the progress until the springs engaged.

If your release cable snapped and did not disengage the mechanism, it is necessary to perform the lift and remote actions together or risk damaging the opener. When my opener sheared the teeth on the motor, it was strong enough to prevent manual opening but not strong enough to lift the door. Had the release not operated properly, there would have been little to no additional damage to the already worn gear.


Pine that thin is going to warp; if you're going to paint it, I'd use MDF. If you want a natural wood look, a plywood with a finish-grade top layer would be much more stable.


There are cementitious floor patches made for this purpose that will give you better results. Liquid Nails, indispensable though it may be, doesn't really harden enough to do a patch job like this. Here's a video of a guy patching a floor that's pretty thorough.Floor patch.


The fact that the laminate was soaked with water caused it to swell. Drying it won't allow it to contract completely. Add to that the flooring was laid on concrete. Was there a vapor barrier between the concrete and the laminate? If not then the flooring had been drawing moisture from the concrete for a long time before the water leak. You are lucky you were able to disassemble the flooring without destroying it. As for trimming the lip. This will help reassembly. However, it probably won't hold together as well. My suggestion would be to scrap replacing the laminate and go purchase some LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile, also known as LVF, Luxury Vinyl Flooring). It's more durable over time and also water proof. Hope this helps.


Where does the blue wire in my fan go to?

It connects the house wiring to the light kit if the fan has one, if the fan does not have a light, it does not need it, it is just a spare wire.


How to get rid of rats in wall coming from old washer drain pipe?

Seal the entry hole - where was the washer drainage going, to daylight?  Rats can get into any crack that is larger than their skull size which is smaller than a quarter.  If you are talking about a mouse the hole size is unimaginably small.
Rat snap traps with peanut butter and lots of them.  Expect 50% to spring and not catch the rat.  Be prepared to deal with injured dying rats.
Rat poison in concrete shells to prevent other animals from accessing.  Be prepared for rats to die in your ceiling / walls and smell until they dry out.
Eliminate harborage around your property.  Rats like to move parallel to exterior walls, put the traps along their path.
Eliminate food sources in your yard.

Getting rid of rats is an arms race, so do everything at once.  Don't try #1 and then when that doesn't work add in #2.  Do 1-5 all at once.


Older light fixture with 3 bulbs - each bulb has 1 white and 1 black wire from it

In a word: Yes.
In a bunch of words: Yes, this is called connecting in parallel.
All household lighting loads and most appliance loads operate at the same voltage. So each lamp, fan, toaster, phone charger, etc. needs to be connected between one of the hot legs and the neutral bar in the service panel.
In the case of your lamp, each bulb needs its own separate connection to a hot (120v) supply and a neutral.
The circuit connection considerations of household wiring are very simple, and can be explained in a page of text. Two or three pages with the diagrams. The bulk of an electrician's work, and the content of the NEC, are concerned with safety.
Speaking of safety, you should use two wire nuts for your job. Different manufacturers use different color codes for the sizes, so you need to look at the chart on the packaging to determine the size to use to join one supply conductor to three flexible cords. There is a lot of leeway here. If you can get the nut onto the wires, then it's big enough, and if you can't pull any wire out of the nutted connection, then it's not too big.
(Personally I prefer the one-word answer but American schools have trained me to keep writing until the proctor says stop.)


Do water hammer arresters need their packing nuts adjusted?

This should not affect your water seal, which is the o-ring.

It's probably just an assembly detail, particularly if the instructions don't mention it.

I don't see any way it would affect the piston, which is at right angles to it.

My best guess (and it is a guess) is that it's a way to install an orifice (small hole of precisely known size) at the time of assembly. EDIT: Actually, it may just be a mechanical requirement of getting the compression nut in place, looking at it again.


Electric wall heater keeps tripping off. What might be the causes?

What is the cover doing that could be causing this unit to keep tripping off?

The cover is holding in heat and the reset you are pushing is tripped by heat. Usually, the reset trips because the unit is drawing too much current which creates heat in the thermal trip device.

Is there anything blocking air flow to the unit? The heater needs air to flow freely otherwise it could overheat and trip out.

If it is tripping out without anything blocking air flow this means the heating coil is not functioning properly or the thermal unit is faulty.


What should I lay under carpet to protect hardwood floor for a couple of years?

I would consider the lace mesh rubber mats that are sold for use under area rugs. Almost anything else is going to result in a lot of movement, which will be unpleasant for the occupants as well as increases the risk of damage to the hardwood.


Reconciling high ceilings with New England cold weather

Ceiling Fans
Ceiling fans are most often installed to help keep cool in the summer but they can also help circulate the hot air in the winter. Some have adjustable blades to make them more effective for this use.


How can I check for drywall behind wood panelling?

If there are electrical outlets, remove one and look. otherwise you need to remove a section of panelling or drill a hole and observe what comes out. Odds are pretty good it's just panelling, speaking to typical practices in garage remodels.


How can I provide neutral wires for my smart switches?

On the hots, you can add the switch hots via pigtail to that nut with the black wires.

Yes, when all the wires in the bundle are white, that is neutral.  Do Not split up the neutral bundle, those are not spare, those are how current returns.  The only reason you're thinking that is because you don't have any pigtail wires or wire-nuts on hand and you can't see how to connect without those things.  Go get them!

You need to add your neutral wire to the bundle.  Since that bundle is pretty full already and I gather you will have 3 smart switches, I recommend adding a white pigtail to that bundle and joining the switch wires to the pigtail with another wire nut.


Is there a way I can get the shower arm to tighten in the 12 o'clock position?

If you're using the Teflon tape effectively you can turn your arm through a range of angles without substantially affecting tightness. Start over and make sure you're using enough. You shouldn't actually bottom out the threaded fitting.


Why would a newly installed radiator only heat when on constant bleed?

I believe that means that the drain pipe of that last radiator is blocked in some way (or simply not or incorrectly connected)

for the connection you'll need to ensure the inlet and outlets are connected to the proper pipes

if it is properly connected then this can be an airlock to fix this close all other radiators and turn on the pump this will increase the pressure before the air bubble and might clear it.

if this doesn't fix it you'll need to check the drain pipes and replace as necessary.


How to glue back a piece of wood (particle board) that fell from my kitchen cupboard?

Well, all that glue did was to stick itself to the cupboard. There was not much in contact with the bit that fell off. So make sure of good contact next time.


Will a fire pit damage my patio's ceiling?

Unless you limit usage to tiny kindling fires, this is a bad plan. Sparks are common when burning wood, and a slight breeze can put them almost anywhere. Logs burn at 600-1000 degrees F or more and hold a lot of heat in case of a tipover, etc.

You will see smoke deposits almost immediately, not "over time". Wood smoke is very dirty. It's also likely that the ceiling will get hot enough to sustain physical damage, especially on calm days.

Then, the notion that wood smoke is somehow less dangerous from a health perspective is simply wrong. It contains many carcinogenic chemicals and other irritants. Having an unvented fire in a confined space and that near your house is simply unwise.

It's almost certainly illegal as well.


Is a splice permitted in a PVC conduit body?

Depends.

If the conductors are 6 AWG or smaller.
There is enough free space.
It's not a short radius conduit body.
The volume is durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer.

Only then can the conduit body contain splices.
In your specific case, I don't see the volume listed in the specifications section on the Home Depot page. So you'd have to check the fitting itself, to determine if the manufacturer has marked the volume. You didn't say what size wires you're pulling, so I can't answer that definitively. You also didn't mention the number of conductors, so it's impossible for me to do the fill calculations.
The Codez

National Electrical Code 2014
ARTICLE 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures
II. Installation
314.16 Number of Conductors in Outlet, Device, and Junction Boxes, and Conduit Bodies. Boxes and conduit bodies shall be of an approved size to provide free space for all enclosed conductors. In no case shall the volume of the box, as calculated in 314.16(A), be less than the fill calculation as calculated in 314.16(B). The minimum volume for conduit bodies shall be as calculated in 314.16(C).
(C) Conduit Bodies.
(1) General. Conduit bodies enclosing 6 AWG conductors or smaller, other than short-radius conduit bodies as described in 314.16(C)(2), shall have a cross-sectional area not less than twice the cross-sectional area of the largest conduit or tubing to which they can be attached. The maximum number of conductors permitted shall be the maximum number permitted by Table 1 of Chapter 9 for the conduit or tubing to which it is attached.
(2) With Splices, Taps, or Devices. Only those conduit bodies that are durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer with their volume shall be permitted to contain splices, taps, or devices. The maximum number of conductors shall be calculated in accordance with 314.16(B). Conduit bodies shall be supported in a rigid and secure manner.
(3) Short radius conduit bodies. Conduit bodies such as capped elbows and service-entrance elbows that enclose conductors 6 AWG or smaller, and are only intended to enable the installation of the raceway and the contained conductors, shall not contain splices, taps, or devices and shall be of sufficient size to provide free space for all conductors enclosed in the conduit body.

Examples of short radius conduit bodies
Capped Elbow

Box Fill Calculation
For each current carrying conductor that terminates within the box, you'll add 1. So if you're pulling one ungrounded (hot) conductor, one grounded (neutral), and one grounding conductor. If you want to splice within the box, the calculation would look like this.

Ungrounded (hot)        1
Ungrounded (hot)        1
Grounded (neutral)      1
Grounded (neutral)      1
--------------------------
                        4

If grounding conductors are used, you'll add 1.

Current Carying         4
Grounding               1
--------------------------
                        5

Once you have the conductor count, you'll use Table 314.16(B) to determine the required volume.

NOTE: You'll always base the calculation off the largest conductor used. so if you have a #14 grounded (neutral) and a #12 ungrounded (hot), you'll use 2.25 because of the #12.  If you're using grounding conductors that are a different size than the current carrying conductors, you'll multiply them separately (#12 hot, #12 neutral, #14 ground = 2 x 2.25 + 1 x 2.00).
14 AWG
If the largest conductor used is 14 AWG, you'll multiply the conductor count by 2.00 according to Table 314.16(B).
`5 * 2.00 = 10.00'
Which means the box must have a volume of at least 10 cubic inches, if you want to splice within it.
12 AWG
If the largest conductor used is 12 AWG, you'll multiply the conductor count by 2.25.
5 * 2.25 = 11.25
So in this case, the box must have a volume of at least 11.25 cubic inches.
3 Ungrounded (hot) Conductors
If you were pulling 3 ungrounded (hot) conductors, the calculations would look like this.

Ungrounded (hot)        1
Ungrounded (hot)        1
Ungrounded (hot)        1
Ungrounded (hot)        1
Grounded (neutral)      1
Grounded (neutral)      1
Grounding               1
--------------------------
                        7

14 AWG
7 * 2.00 = 14 cubic inches
12 AWG
7 * 2.25 = 15.75 cubic inches


Identifying my trip-lever drain stopper to buy a replacement

If you're not adamant about keeping the side-to-side lever on the overflow here are some choices for a replacement.
You may be able to install a simpler drain stop with this device
finally, if you just want to install the missing piece
Below are the (2) most commonest drain stopper types which may help you with choosing a replacement or part.


Single handle Moen 1200 cartridge has a drip after one day

With the unit again disassembled and cartridge removed, take a 3/4 copper fitting brush and clean out the brass body. This removes stuck debris.
Flush out with water from a spray bottle. Clean and dry and re-lubricate.


Do newly lined wood burning fireplace chimneys need to be broken in?

The 20+ years became a non-issue with the relining 9 months ago, assuming that was done properly and inspected when finished by somone qualified to inspect it (presumably the installers, in most cases.)

Always a good idea to burn a small wad of newspaper before getting a full fire going to be sure that no birds opted to nest in there these past 9 months, blocking the re-lined flue. If smoke goes up, go ahead and build a fire.

Responding to comment: correct, no "break in" is needed for a stainless steel liner - install it, use it.


Remove 3-way switch from a 4-way circuit?

To eliminate a 3-way switch, simply connect the feed wire to either one of the traveler wires, using a wirenut or similar approved connection device. Isolate the other traveler wire by capping it with a wirenut. You can identify the feed wire as it will connect to one side of the switch and the traveler wires will be on the other side. If you are not sure, in this case, it is safe to experiment: interconnect any two of the non-ground wires and isolate the other. If the circuit doesn't work, switch the isolated wire with either one of the others.
You noted that you will be replacing the switch with a switch for another circuit. One thing to watch out for is box fill. The new wires may possibly exceed the allowed fill. I'll leave it to a pro to expand on this.
Also, you may be aware of this already, but make sure to turn off the breaker for the circuit and test the wires for voltage before starting.


Can I use one of the phases in a 2-phase circuit to power a 120V appliance

As one of the commenters pointed out, this is not 2-phase power (at least assuming something similar to standard U.S. residential 240V single-phase/split-phase service--what country are you in?). It's single-phase power. You get 240V between the poles on the smaller coil of the transformer outside your place. So you get 120V (half) from each pole to the exact center of the coil, where the "neutral" taps in (it's a single-phase center tap transformer). The neutral carries the imbalance between the loads on the two poles (power from one pole is opposite polarity and thus cancels out power from the other). So if there's exactly the same load on each pole, the neutral carries zero current, but it almost always carries some current.

So... yes, technically this would work. But where are you going to tap in? With what kind of device?  Are you planning to connect a #8 and #12 wire with a wire nut?  ;-)

As another commenter pointed out, you will end up with a 120V appliance running on a circuit protected by a 40A breaker. Since you can't legally put a 15A or 20A outlet on a 40A circuit, that definitely violates code. The device itself isn't going to draw any more current than it needs unless it has a short, but you can't legally wire in an outlet that the appliance cord will fit.

Your 37A calculation is 93% of the rating of the 40A circuit. U.S. NEC says you can't design a circuit with a continuous load over 80% of the circuit breaker's capacity. But "continuous" means full draw for longer periods of time than you are going to operate your stove.

And your cooler only draws about one Amp. So you might be okay there.

So... if you absolutely, positively can't or won't pull a new 120V 15A or 20A circuit from the panel, it sounds like the sanest option (from yet another commenter) is to redirect that 40A 240V circuit into a small subpanel.

I just now saw a little 2 space, 4 circuit 70A capacity subpanel/load center at a major box store's website for $15. Cheap.

Hopefully the cable you already have running to the stove has 4 wires (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground).

The neutral (grounded) and grounding buses in the subpanel have to be disconnected from each other, the neutral bus has to be isolated from the metal box, and the grounding bus has to be bonded to the box. Otherwise, if there's a fault in the neutral, all your return current ends up on the ground and potentially energizes the box.

Your existing 40A two-pole breaker in the main panel is your master breaker for the subpanel, protecting the existing wire. Put a 40A two-pole breaker in the subpanel to feed the stove, and a 15A or 20A single-pole breaker to feed an outlet for the cooler.

You can use a masonry bit and concrete screws to drill and screw the little subpanel to the concrete, and to secure the conduit or MC that you'll run from that panel to the outlets for the stove and cooler. Which you will secure to the concrete in similar fashion.

You could use a small panel similar to this:


How Can I Reduce "Splashiness" in the Kitchen Faucet?

The screen is just one part of an aerator.  There are a few different components to an aerator. It's best to get a new aerator instead of trying to track down all the individual pieces.  It'll be worth the little bit of extra money. To make sure you get the right aerator the first time, I recommend that you bring the old one into the hardware store to match the threads.


How should I fill the holes in my floor to prevent mice from getting in?

Expanding foam can get messy but it may be your best bet, if you can keep it in place and they do not chew through it.

You may want to  either incorporate a heavy gauge metal mesh wire, neatly cut around or into the place the mice go through. You might could even "bed" the wire mesh in the foam as it is expanding to lock in place that way. Doing this will make a potentially messy task and make it even messier.

This will not look nice in any sense of the word on the larger holes but it will certainly slow them down for a while. Otherwise a cat, as mentioned in the comments section, will also take care of the problem.

Thin sheet metal screwed in place will work as well without the foam too. You could try nailing it down, but in the cabinet it will bounce a bunch, screws are better here.


pouring concrete right next to asphalt driveway

If, when pouring the concrete right up against the asphalt, you end up with parts of the concrete that taper or feather out to less than say about 1.5 -> 2.0 inches thick you will have trouble keeping the concrete in one piece. The thin parts are likely to fracture and break off.

I suspect that if you rented a concrete type saw and cut off the asphalt in a nice square edge that you could then pour the concrete right up to it without a form. You will want to make sure the concrete is at least 3.5 -> 4.0 inches thick to make sure it stands up to be driven upon and changes of weather through winter seasons (if you live in a place where it freezes in winter).


GFCI breaker trips only when weather is very cold

I looked at this again now that it has tripped once more with 38 degrees F outside temperature. It is an AFCI breaker, not a GFCI (or possibly more correct it is both), and when flipping it back to on, the light labeled ARC FAULT comes on (not the other one labeled GROUND FAULT).

Upon more reading, simply ensuring the microwave isn't underloaded (e.g. add a cup of water to it while heating something small) should prevent this.

Except that what is funny about this is that when it tripped today it in fact already had a bit of extra water inside. Although it was a shot glass of water, not a whole cup. Now that I'm barking up the right tree I should be able to get somewhere with this though.


How to remove and re-insert wires into socket?

After discussing With jack and looking at the photo again I realized that is a CFL with a separate ballast.  I was thinking disconnect not connection to the lamp in that case I would cut the wires off close to the ballast and splice. I have used wire nuts but with small solid wire and low current this is one place I use lever locks or push in stab splices have never had them fail in a fluorescent fixture and LED’s draw even less. I changed to lever locks as who knows some of these fixtures have been required 3X so far in their life with lever locks the connectors are a bit more but if another rewire is needed they will save time and money..


Draft from under baseboard - pull back carpet or remove baseboard to caulk?

Attempting to put caulking to the wall under the base board with the carpet installed is very likely going to result in caulking spread out onto the carpet - also if you ever have to pull it temporarily - the parts embedded into the caulk will separate from the rest of the carpet.  Unfortunately, placing the caulking under the baseboard with the carpet removed also presents a problem; namely dirty, sharp, and possibly rusty pointy carpet grabbing spike heads - ready to puncture your fingers.  I would recommend using caulking backer rod.  This is a flexible solid foam rope which could be pushed into the gap conforming to the space and sealing off any air penetration.

A more permanent solution would require crawling;
If this is an interior wall and access to crawlspace or basement is available  I would suggest inspecting the floor for penetrations which could be sealed.  If it is an exterior wall check for penetrations through the wall plate (bottom and top) at the perimeter and any exterior penetrations for outlets.  horizontal siding is notorious for allowing air to enter walls; without a well sealed vapor barrier under the siding, there is little that can be done without opening the walls.


Connecting a Leviton 3-Way Dimmer Switch to new 3-Way Circuit

It's confusing to you merely because you are a novice in this area.  This is normal and all will be explained as you learn.   A few things:

In mains electrical, color codes often mean far less than you'd hope. Cables are made that way, with the same 2-3 wire colors, and gets used for everything.  The colors are to distinguish the wires from each other, not define meaning/purpose.
In 3-way circuits, colors are worse than useless because you have 4 functions and 3 colors to define them, and no two circuits are alike. Even experts have to work through it, it's ridiculous.  This is why I intentionally use colored tape to remark the wire color by function.  It turns insanity into easy mode.
You are learning "by rote" - that means repeating a thing mechanically without functional understanding. That falls apart in a hurry in 3-way circuits since every one is different.
Instructions cannot possibly tell you how to wire when every circuit is different.

Code requires that neutral be white (if it's present).  I prefer color codes of black for always-hot, red for switched-hot (hot when you want the light on), and yellow for travelers.   Now, a 3-way looks like this

and wires like this

So get a 5-pack of colored electrical tape.  On your spur cable to the lamp, mark the black wire red on both ends.    On the /3 cable between switches, you are using red and white as travelers, so mark them yellow.   Now you're marked just like this diagram.
What about that dimmer?  I'll sneak you to the end, although given what I just showed you, it may be fairly obvious.  The two red wires are travelers. Mark them yellow.   And voilà, everything should make sense.
But this may violate Code
Ugh.  All this and we have a problem.  Depending on the application, it may violate the building codes.  You notice that most of the time, switches are in an obvious place: that's because Code requires that. Certain (most) switches are required, and required switches must turn on a light and give usable light. This is to benefit guests (so they don't hurt themselves) and first responders (so they can work).
The wiring of this dimmer forces you to put it in one location (only place you have black-yellow-yellow, the far switch).  If the dimmer is turned way down, flipping the switch at the other location would provide a very dim light.  That's a Code violation since the switch doesn't turn on a light in the room.
The way to fix that is smart dimmers where you have a dimming control at each location.
Some smart switches use wireless or power-line signaling.  Your wiring layout lends itself well to smart dimmers with a wired communications line.  In that case, the between-switches /3 becomes black=always-hot, white=neutral and red=communication.  This also gives you always-hot and neutral at the far switch if you want to extend the circuit.


I think you probably know what you need to do... remove ALL that crap. Sloppy glues and putties never work with plumbing. It needs to be repaired the proper way.

The application of that epoxy has complicated this job. Your mission is to remove all the epoxy so you can see what you are dealing with.

The typical connection at that point: the plastic tube slides into a threaded 1 1/2" galvanized steel nipple (nipple is term for short pipe threaded both ends). A 1/1/2" slip-joint nut and washer on the plastic tube thread to the pipe to effect a seal.

There is a chance that:

the epoxy cannot be removed without complete destruction of all parts, this would require replacing everything
you can get the fittings apart only to find that the threads on the 1 1/2" nipple are damaged, this requires nipple replacement.
the galvanized nipple is so corroded it falls apart in your hands, leaving the threaded part in the wall; replace nipple after special operation to remove broken part still in the wall.

All the scenarios above (and many other things that could go wrong) can be remedied using special tool/procedures/parts/tricks. Taking pictures and bringing parts/pieces to a good plumbing shop will help tremendously. IMO you should not even waste your time at the big-box stores.

.


How to Remove This Bathroom Faucet Spout

I figured it out. The T underneath actual just pulls off and then the nut spins off then the spout can be pulled up through the hole. As an aside it is amazing how easy the new faucets are to install.


Why does this wall in my basement have so many vents?

The high one is your return to HVAC. The small one down low is the supply from HVAC. (This arrangement could be reversed depending on your climate.)

The low large one is probably a "makeup air" vent, which allows combustion in the utility room to draw fresh air for its needs. It could also just be ventilation to prevent staleness.


Coax and cat6 close to the main power trunk

I know there isn't a black and white answer on this one, but I'm going to post the decision I made as the answer (based on everyone's feedback).

It just felt too close to run the coax/cat6 4" from the main power lines.  My handyman was able to cut out a small section of the drywall on the adjacent wall, run the coax/cat6 behind it and feed in to the basement in the next joist bay.  I feel much better about this solution.  Nagging internet issues can be tough to diagnose, so I want to get the best wiring I can up front.


Prefinished hardwood floor uneven between head and butt

My answer would be, especially since he offered, have the contractor do just that - resand the whole thing. You don't pay for a prefinished hardwood floor expecting to have little bumps and divots in it. Our house has original hardwood floors, that we had refinished a few years ago. After refinishing, they were as smooth as glass, all the way across the room. If you just leave it now, most likely those little uneven spots will nag at you and bother you more and more until a year from now you will have to pay someone to resand the whole floor. Just my 2 cents worth. Hope this helps.


It's difficult to tell without a close up photo of the valve however your guess sounds correct.  It's possible there's some grit or chalk built up that's preventing the valve from closing fully.  Unscrewing the part you've circled may allow you to verify and clean it out.  Ensure you turn the water supply to the cistern off before removing the part.


AFCI receptacles vs GFCI receptacles for non-grounded outlets

TL;DR Install GFCI receptacles
Grounding, AFCI and GFCI perform three different, but complementary, functions.
Grounding takes care of a few different things, including providing a path for static electricity to get back to "ground" and enabling certain types of short circuits to complete in a way that will trip a circuit breaker. Grounding has been part of the basic design of residential wiring for a long time, but it is not critical when everything else works correctly. For grounding to work properly, it has to be installed in a particular way in the main panel and connected all the way to each device or receptacle.
AFCI protects against Arc Faults, which primarily means for protection. This includes certain types of problems that can be caused by loose wires, nails through wires, damaged insulation and other things. It is most effective when installed in (or near) the main panel so that it can protect against both wire damage and device problems.
GFCI protects against Ground Faults, which primarily means protection against serious injury and death. This is an imbalance between hot and neutral (or hot & hot on a 240V circuit). It is called "ground", but it actually does not require a ground connection to do its job. The key is that any electricity from hot that doesn't make its way to neutral must be going to someplace else. That someplace else is generically "ground" but may be: ground wire (ideal, safe), a person (not safe), a pet (not safe), exposed parts of equipment (not safe if they can be touched by a person), etc. The really great thing is that if the electricity would be going over a ground wire, but that ground wire doesn't exist, then it will go somewhere, and the GFCI will trip to stop that electricity.
The end result is that, in addition to its primary duty of protection against serious injury and death, a GFCI will effectively provide the protection that a ground wire would supply, even if the ground wire is not connected. So it is the cheap & easy way to convert from 2-wire to 3-wire receptacles. The way you do this is to install GFCI at the first receptacle in each chain, and any additional 2-wire receptacles can be replaced with 3-wire receptacles and marked as "GFCI protected, no ground". And you are safe.
In fact, you can install the GFCI protection in the breaker panel instead. That can be even easier to do, and less confusing (no need to figure out LINE vs. LOAD). Then you can replace all the 2-wire receptacles with 3-wire receptacles (and label them...). The catch is that generally speaking GFCI receptacles cost less than GFCI breakers and, depending on the type of panel and existing breakers, this may not be an option. GFCI receptacles are always an option.


Have you placed a thermometer to see what the temp is?  I can't imagine it would be hot enough up there to cause any problems. It's no different than any large window with dark drapes or blinds closed and sun shining through.

There is a nice lip on that crown molding that would be perfect to hold a pull down,sun blocking shade.


Are there advantages / uses to having disk and belt sander surfaces?

An advantage of the disk over the belt is that you can control how aggressive the sanding is by moving the point of contact between the edge of the disk (where the speed is highest) and the middle (where it is lowest).  The downside of the disk sander (pun intended) is you can only safely use the half of the disk that is pushing the work down onto the table.  This means the disk works well for fairing convex curves.  (If you need to sand concave shapes, you need yet another machine, a spindle sander.)

For smoothing long edges, the belt sander is better since you can work the full width of the belt.  It would depend on the machine, but generally belts should be easier to change than adhesive disks.

Finally, by having the dual purpose machine you can set up both a coarse grit on the disk sander, and a finer grit on the belt sander to avoid having to change belts on a belt-only sander.


Any advice or words of wisdom for toilet leaking through floor/ceiling?

It sounds and looks like the wax seal has failed. The good news is this repair is not hard. The bad news it is a "dirty job" .

Step 1 get a new wax seal at a plumbing or big box store just a couple of bucks. I like the ones with a urathane center they are a bit more expensive but 5 bucks is not a big deal. Also pick up some disposable gloves and a narrow putty knife (makes removing the old wax easier)

Step 2 turn the water to the toilet off and flush you want to empty the tank. If you have a wet vacuum suck the small amount left in the tank out and also drain the bowl, if no wet vacuum a small towel can be used to soak up the water and squeeze out down another drain.

Step 3 remove the supply line to the toilet.
Step 4 remove the 2 bolts at the floor, 1 on each side.

Step 5 lift the entire unit by the base not the tankand lay on its side.
Step 6 clean the old wax seal off the bottom of The stool and the top of the toilet flange (the plumbing at floor level). Make sure to remove the rubber cone.

Step 7 take new seal and mold it to the bottom of the stool.

Step 8 this is the toughest part, pick up the stool by the base and position it over the bolts and lower it then press down, once the bolts are through I usually sit on it to help squash the seal a bit.
Step 9 install the washers and nuts tighten both sides a few turns each until snug, sit on the stool and see if it is loose if it is tighten a little more and check again (a stool that wobbles will shorten the seal life).
Step 10 replace the water line and turn on.
Once the tank fills flush and verify everything is working with no leaks.
Now just to clean up and dispose of the old wax ring & gloves and realize you just saved a bunch of $.


I would use some silicone sealer; not a lot, but enough to stick the cable to the well. I do this on heater blocks for electric valves: when the heat rod fails, the silicone is easily removed. Your temperature probe would work the same.


What do I need to do to finish this outside-door install properly?

Normally at that point there would be a capping trim fitted and job done, though maybe more filler should be added.


Is bathroom sink pipe configuration up to code and does it have a trap?

It looks like the original installer didn't quite have the correct combination of pipes and and fudged things a bit. It's perhaps not optimal but fine to leave as is.

There is a trap which is the bit that goes down and then back up in a classical U-trap. There is water in that section to block the foul smelling air coming back up the drain.


Does air conditioning work harder or just longer?

Air conditioners have two states - on or off. Turning the temperature down lower simply causes the AC to run longer; it won't reach the desired temperature any faster.


How long can I leave a wood fence after pressure washing, before staining it?

Some fences are never stained. Keep in mind that sunlight will "bleach" wood that is not protected from UV light. So, you can leave the fence as-is but it might significantly weather with no protection, depending on whether the pressure washing damages whatever existing finish is on it now.

Also, you don't necessarily want it to be hot when applying an exterior stain. Best time to stain would be a cloudy day. If the stain dries / cures too quickly it could lead to problems. Most exterior stains will instruct you to not expose the stained object to direct sun until the stain cures.


This is an acceptable solution for multi-tenant buildings where the exhaust fans from multiple units vent in to a common duct. The booster fan in the floor vent makes sure that the air pressure in the room being vented is higher than the common duct. The booster fan can pull air through the central AC/hear air handler even if it's not running. This lightens the load on the exhaust fan.


I integrated the solar panels into the roof, some interesting points:

The angle is 70 degrees (steep to maximise winter output) - snow falls off and rain washes off dust so never needed cleaning in 15 years.
The panels are the waterproof covering so saving the cost of the tiles beneath.
The array is in series to give about 380V DC, this minimises the losses , as well as a cable over-specified to keep losses to a minimum.
The annual output exceeds the predicted (or simulated) output by about 15% - due to the winter sun being reflected off the snow onto the panels - remember the steep angle...
The annual production exceeds the annual use - but that is what it was designed to do.

So, work out what you want to achieve and make sure you account for all use...


Yes, anything connected to the LOAD terminals of a GFCI device is GFCI protected. So a ground-fault anywhere on the circuit "after" the GFCI device, would cause the device to trip. This will cause the receptacles on the GFCI device, and all the devices attached to the LOAD terminal to lose power.

Connecting GFCI devices on the LOAD side of a GFCI device, should cause no problems other than wasting money.

If you wired three GFCI devices in line as you suggested, and then pressed the test button on the last GFCI in line. The previous GFCI devices should not trip.

Internally, a GFCI looks similar to this.

So when it's set and the test button is pressed, it looks like this.

When the test button is pressed, current flows through the test button, through a resistor, around the current transformer (CT), and back to the grounded (neutral) terminal.  I've highlighted the current path in yellow.

So as you can see, you'll have 6 mA on the ungrounded (hot) terminal, and also 6 mA on the grounded (neutral) terminal. This GFCI device tripped, because the return path of the test circuit bypassed the CT. The current will not bypass the CT in the other GFCI devices, so they should not detect the test ground-fault.

This blog post might help you understand how GFCI devices work.


How can I fix this portion of sliding screen door track?

This is a tough one, as the aluminum is hard to weld.  And replacing the sill plate is tantamount to replacing the door (strike one for planned obsolescence).

I'd first try trimming a small scrap of aluminum slightly wider than the hole.  Roll the top edge so it takes the weight of the door. Then clean the heck out of the area, and epoxy it into place.

This has a chance of working.  Don't bother trying to restore the weep function, you need all the strength you can get.   Don't worry about making the track slightly wider, the roller wheel is pretty sloppy.

Not used to working with folding metal? The top edge of an aluminum sardine can might give you a head start.  The top edge of a tin can would be even stronger at the slight risk of galvanic corrosion.  Sheet aluminum is available at any hardware store in the roofing area. JB weld is a fine epoxy.  I'd stay away from fast epoxy and make sure to clamp really well.  Remember you want the metal to take the weight of the door wheel, the epoxy is just to keep it from falling out.  Feather the edges of the epoxy to reduce catching.


How to find out why electric usage has more than doubled?

What is your heat source?  I had a rental house that had a heat pump that failed and the renters complained about a sudden spike in electrical billings.  BC the heat pump failed, the house was being heated with backup electrical resistance elements.
The most common cause of a spike in electrical usage is space heating.   Also, if you have a leaking hot water faucet (or other leak in a hot water pipe) it could cause the water heater to run much more than normal (assuming an electric water heater).


ThreePhaseEel's comment is key. Most light switches I've seen are set up the same as in this instructional PDF. The relevant portion from that PDF is in this illustration:

Likely, this is exactly how the switch with one light is wired. The switch with two lights starts like this and then has another run to the 2nd light box. The first light in the circuit will have 3 conductors in the wire nuts of that lamp. If you can make a run of romex NM from the single light circuit to one of the lamps of the 2 light circuit, you'll be ok.

Disconnect and cap off the feed to that other circuit as well as the wires to the unused switch. Then you can add the light to the desired circuit.

I started an illustration but that'll take longer to draw than to do the connections.


Why is my washing machine so loud during the spin cycle?

The spin cycle is normally the loudest part of the washing program. To compare the sound of your machine with others, you should consider whether it's designed to be extra quiet or not, and whether it has a high-speed spin cycle or not.

My washing machine has a 1200 RPM high speed spin cycle, but it's designed to be quiet so it's not very loud anyway. It also has the option to run the spin cycle at a slower speed, which makes it even more quiet.

You can buy rubber washers designed to be placed under the feet of the washing machine, which will reduce the vibrations in your rack.

Although the spin cycle is noisy, you should listen if there is a banging noise or if it's just loud. If there is a banging noise the clothes may be unevenly balanced (overload?), or there may be something wrong with the suspension so that it can't absorb the vibrations.


Can I run a heated floor thermostat on a 30 amp sub panel with a 20 amp GFCI breaker?

There are lots of variables here which need to be fixed to give a definitive answer, i.e. size of heated area in bathroom, 120 or 240 V heating cables, other circuits/loads on the 30 A subpanel.

However, most thermostats intended for electric in floor heating already include a GFCI, so you need to check your thermostat specs before installation, because a GFCI breaker would not be necessary or recommended in this case. However, a dedicated breaker (GFCI or not) is recommended for the floor heating (and required in some jurisdictions).

Assuming your bath is typical and not Caracalla-sized, then it would work out to between 30 and 50 sq ft heated area (you don't heat under the shower, toilet or sink/vanity), and at 12-15 W/sq ft (depending on the heating system) you're looking at between 360 and 750 W for the floor heating. This represents a max load of 7A @ 120V, or 3.5A at 240V, so not a huge load on the subpanel (depending on your other existing circuits/loads). Certainly a 20A breaker for the floor heating would be adequate.

If the heated area of your floor exceeds about 120 sq ft, then you could exceed the capacity of a 20A breaker. Above about 50 sq ft of heated area, I would recommend a 240V in-floor heating system in any case to balance the load on your 30A panel.


That bit of plumbing where the pipe does a U shape before going down, that is called a trap.

Every drain has one.  Think about what happens when water goes down that drain regularly. The water can't all get over the hump, so it stays down in the U-shaped area.  This has the effect of plugging the pipe.  The whole point is to stop sewer gases escaping.

Now, think about what happens when water doesn't go down that drain regularly.   That "plug" of water dries up.  Voila, the pipe is now wide-open and stink ensues.

The cure is to pour water down that drain.

The water will be trapped in the U-part, and provide the sewer gas plug as intended.

As you can imagine, it only takes months for that water to dry out, so it has to be done again from time to time. And it will happen to any drain or sink that is disused.  So you should be prepared to do it as often as needed.

Or you can properly cap the line with actual pipe fittings that clamp or screw in, readily available at the hardware store.

Whose responsiblity is it?  Let's see.  That fixture appears to be intended for a washing machine, so it is a "feature" not a "defect". Even if it was a defect, do you really want the landlord coming into your home every 3 months to dump water down each trap?  I would argue the traps should be maintained by the tenant.


You have damaged the valve and it will need to be replaced.
Judging from the photos the "bonnet nut" Is not a nut and is not designed to be removable by turning it with a wrench. It has three copper pipes pressed or soldered into the back side so it can not be turned of as if it was one pipe with a threaded connection.
I believe any hack "repair" you do will not be sufficient and will fail in time and since it will be out of sight in a wall you will not know if it fails until it causes a very large drain in you bank account. I.E. Damage that will require significant work to replace and mitigate water damage and possible mold.


How do I change the light bulb in this fan?

The fan is a Harbor Breeze Aero.  Only the glass comes off.  Slight push up and a twist counter clockwise twists the glass.  Then you let it drop down slowly.  It's about a 1/3 to 1/2 twist to get it to the stopping point.


What to cover underside of shed subfloor

Normally a shed does not have an insulated floor but since yours is going to be insulated i would not leave it open for critters to nest in or chew up and take away for a nests.

I would cover the bottom of your joists with treated plywood or Metal lath.

The plywood keeps out bugs and squirrels etc, the lath keep out only things larger than the opening of the lath you choose.

Building wrap (tyvek?) or polythene is no match for squirrels. Unless you put some lath around the structure as skirting, i would bury the bottom of it in a trench several inches deep to keep critters from burrowing under it.

Mice a voles are different, they can chew through plywood, so you may need both PW & lath with very small openings.


Could be a mechanical problem.  Try this: with the power OFF, try to rotate the fan with your finger. It should spin freely for awhile after you poke it.  If not, then something is mechanically impeding the travel of the fan blades.

Check for anything touching any part of that rotating fan assembly.  Maybe some left-over protective packaging that you missed?  Or a wire that is bent in and pushing on the blades?

If not the above then good chance this is just a defective fan motor.


What is the life expectancy of a ratchet strap?

Don't spray it with WD-40. It might lube it up enough to get it moving, but the oils in it will attract dirt and debris which will eventually lead to binding. If you want to try giving it a shot of lube, use a dry type silicone spray.

Ratchet straps are not typically a disposable item, but cheaply made straps can be easily broken. If you're handy, you might want to give fixing it a shot.  Look for things that look out of place, bent, broken, or bound up.  Sometimes the ratchet can become bound up with the strap itself, and can be fixed with a bit of yanking and cranking. Without knowing the exact type of strap you're using, it's difficult to give more accurate repair instructions.  So you'll just have to mess with it until you've fixed it, or given up.

If you decide the strap is beyond repair, and you need to purchase a new one. Buying a higher quality strap, should insure a longer more useful product life. Just remember, higher price does not always equal higher quality.  Handle and inspect the strap in the store as much as you can. Try operating the ratchet, releasing the ratchet, tugging at the straps, etc. to try and gauge the quality.

Note:
Most ratchet straps do have the ability to destroy themselves, over tightening the ratchet can permanently damage it.


Should it cost less than $12,000 to replace a bathroom and cast iron pipes in 1960s home?

Impossible to know what is involved from the vague description. I can't even understand whether the bathroom is above the basement or in it from your description.

Generally speaking, minor structural repair on a house might cost anywhere from $500 to $2,500. Replacing free-standing sewage pipes might cost $400 to $800. If things (like the house itself) need to be lifted or moved out of the way, costs can go up. Usually minor structural changes can be made without lifting though.


Where to find main shut off switch for breaker

You may have what is called a Rule of Six setup. This means that more than one, but no more than six, separate switches need to be turned off to turn off all power to the building. As I understand it, this was allowed many years ago in order to make large panels without having a really big main breaker, but it has been used in many different ways. It is not the normal way to do things today - I'm not sure if it is even allowed for new installations, but old "rule of six" installations that are functioning OK are grandfathered.

For example, in my house there are two pairs of fuse blocks to be pulled out in each of two fuse panels that came with the house (or at least have been there for a very long time) plus a main breaker in a subpanel added with my kitchen remodel, for a total of 5 items to be pulled or switched to cut off everything. If/when I finally get this all replaced with one nice big breaker panel, I will need to have the electric company pull the meter/cut power to do that. Of course, I'll want them to increase my total service at the same time, and the end result is a lot of work and money and..."someday".


Voltage Between Ungrounded Appliance and Ground

Chop the butchered plug off and replace it with a proper grounding plug
Fortunately, the disfavor that the previous homeowner did you by chopping off the grounding pin is fixable.  Simply chop the butchered plug off the cord and replace it with a field-fit type NEMA 5-15 plug, available at any hardware or big-box store.  (Strain relief isn't much of an issue here, as how often do you move the fridge, anyway?)


Don't buy anything mains on eBay

Anything that plugs into mains power should have been certified by a competent testing lab, such as Underwriter's Laboratories (UL), ETL/Intertek, or CSA.  Note that CE is not a testing lab.

The Chinese make what can best be described as sh** a junkstream of extremely low-quality, dangerous garbage.  They would never waste the testing fee to send it to UL to get listed; they're deliberately breaking every rule in the UL White Book with regards to product safety. In fact, they usually don't fake a UL stamp; they put the CE stamp, which is a meaningless mark intended for products in Europe (where even there it's a voluntary mark; the company swears it self-inspected.)

This ... junkstream can be seen on full display on a site called alibaba.com, and you see the prices are preposterously low. This is because they are essentially counterfeit items.   They are also sold at retail at AliExpress.com. and also by enterprising marketers (most of them in China) who buy up lots of these items and list them on eBay.   At much, much higher prices.

They'll buy a $2 knockoff of a $30 item, and list it for $21 because if they listed the item for $5, people would instantly realize it's a fake.

The markup is so stupid high that they don't care about returns.

Those marketers also list them on a flea market called Amazon Marketplace, which is sneakily mixed into regular Amazon listings. (under the "Buy" button they say "Sold by XXXXXX" instead of Amazon). Amazon also allows them to dropship into Amazon's warehouse, in which case they say "...and fulfilled by Amazon" and ship with Prime.  Watch out.

Most countries in the world use 220V.  These cheap factories on Alibaba may not want to make a 120V version of their 220V junk, but if you order in large enough quantity, they'll happily slap a USA 120V plug on it.  And the marketers are too stupid to realize it's not that simple.

Now granted, eBay and Amazon have everything for sale, and that does include bona-fide parts.  So yes, it's possible to find the real McCoy, but you have to know exactly what you're looking for, and it's the very height of caveat emptor.  Buyer beware!

The US also has 220V if you need it

If you have a bona-fide 220V item, that's actually doable. The US has plugs and sockets for that, and they're a different shape so you can't accidentally plug one into the other.  You wouldn't do that just to save money on a cheap soldering iron; you'd do that to use a special or exotic piece of equipment, like that perfect coffee machine.


Replacing pressure gauge on water holding tank

There is no need for (and good reason not to have) a valve between the well and the pressure tank. Turn off the pump power, release pressure, change the gauge. There's no need to hurry. The well is below the tank, with no power to the pump the only way water will even want to flow is back to the well, though if the check valve on the pump is in good shape it won't. There should be a drain valve near the tank...drain all the water in the tank and take as long as you like to fix it.

Edit: either shut off the valve between the tank and the house (assuming there is one, there usually is), or shut off your water heater if there is no such valve, as draining or partially draining a water heater that's turned on is a bad thing...

If you add a valve where you suggest, you could have the valve shut off while the pump power is on, and your pressure switch would see low or no pressure (valve shut) and send power to the pump, which would duly pressurize up to the the shut valve, and eventually find the weak point in the system between the pump and the shut valve, blowing it open. Bad idea.

Likewise, if your pipes are not leaking, don't mess with them. Polyethylene pipe (what you probably have, not rubber) is not all that easy to work with, especially if you have no experience and it's old. If it's not leaking, save the experience for when you have a reason to get it. "Looking old" is a rather vague description - I have plenty of "old" hose clamps in service, they have been mostly made of stainless steel for quite long time, old and dirty (or even light surface rust, as even stainless can get) is not a problem (they are on the outside of the pipe.) 40 years old and just fine. If you have an oddball that's actually rusting to the point of being compromised, sure, replace it, but don't take the pipe apart.

When you are done, simply re-apply power to the pump, and run water until all the air is out of the pipes - this will often result in "alarming looking" but perfectly benign sediment being knocked loose, so don't be alarmed if that happens, just run the water until it clears up, and perhaps remove your faucet aerator screens and clean them. Very shortly (seconds) after you restore pump power you should hear water in the pipes, and see pressure build in the gauge you replaced. Sometimes you have to fiddle with a lever on the gray pressure switch box (if it has a low-pressure cut off.)


The fill is not intended to support the new concrete slab indefinitely. It’s merely fill for the initial concrete pour. The fill will settle overtime, regardless of how well it’s compacted.

Therefore, the slab becomes a “structural slab” and the reinforcing steel MUST be placed exactly correct, or it will fail. That is to say, it won’t just crack, but it will crack so severely it will fail.

We all know the reinforcing needs to be on the tension side (bottom) of the slab, but the slab could have “reverse bending” at the edges and the rebar will need to be on the top of the slab. (Occasionally the slab will be designed with the rebar in the center, in order to eliminate the need to transfer the rebar to the opposite side .)

How thick is the slab and how much rebar is called for in each direction?


It would be worth finding a thatcher - if only so you have someone who will repair/replace the roof when the time comes.

A good one will be able to tell you what maintenance work you need to have done and which tasks you as householder can do.


Wiring a bathroom exhaust fan light and Outlet on one switch

Here's the trick with electrical wires in junction boxes. There is no color coding.  Wires are the colors they are because that's how cables are made.

There is a system and practice for relating wires to functions.  However, the information is stored in the the way the wires are connected together already.  For instance, in a lamp box with 3 blacks and 3 whites, a wire-nutted group of 2 blacks / 1 white has a specific meaning. There's no need for further documentation; any electrician instantly recognizes what that is, and now knows the function of every wire in the box.

So, that is why we need to see the current, existing relationship of wires in the box to each other.

From time to time, a newbie will pull all of that apart, not realizing.  In that case, it's time to call the electrician.  We on the Internet cannot possibly discern the function of a bunch of unmarked wires.  The electrician will be on-site and will be able to trace out each cable's function.


What can I use as a bowl for a DIY fire bowl/pit?

I have played with various fire pit options in my backyard for 15 years.  I have tons and tons of trees and yard waste and try to burn most or turn it into compost.  I have grabbed the saucers from trash piles and used those - can't put much on there and wind blows stuff off easy.  I have had an enclosed mini-chimney pit I built from stones.  This worked great but was harder to clean and I had to break down the wood into pretty small pieces.

So I have happily moved on to an in ground pit.  I dug my pit down about three feet into the ground about four feet long by two feet wide.   There is one row of stones below ground level and two rows above ground.  It was made from neighbors throw away stones - and the neighbors throw their wood in the pit.  It is safe, looks good, and I just shovel it out every 3 months.

The example above is pretty close to what I have done except:

Mine is longer going left to right
I have one brick removed on the right so that I can get in and out or prop something up without knocking over bricks.  So it is more of a horse shoe.
My pit goes about a foot above ground.  This is so that ashes don't hit grass directly and so that someone can't just walk into it (we are picky about which limbs we burn).


Why is electric bill all of a sudden $300+ when normally it is under $100?

Contact the electric company. Find out when they do physical meter readings, versus merely projecting your estimated usage.   I bet it's in May.

If you have a smart meter that communicates via powerlines, then my theory is blown.  But you said your meter spins, and smart meters don't do that.


Making up a 1/2" difference in subfloor level

I doubt you'll find a soft underlayment that's that thick, 1/2". You will probably need to lay down 1/2" plywood and then add your flooring on top of that.
There are many reducer transition pieces if you should decide to keep the new floor lower than the existing one. I know you stated you don't want that but it might end up being a viable alternative.


Is this black mold/wall damage fixable without professional help?

That section of the wall must be cut out.   The drywall and plaster and then behind it must be cleaned.  You would cut out about 12" over the molded area.   I see mold too next to it.
Fans help having a huge mold issue.   If you have a flood and standing water fans are not the fix though.   They just keep the issue from getting out of control.


Question about a bathroom wiring I do not understand

The white one is always hot, the purple and black ones are neutral.

White and grey are neutral. The only exception should be if the wires are in a cable - e.g., a switch loop with white & black but no neutral has to use white for either hot or switched hot, neutral just isn't an option. If you had red and black then it could be some sort of "crazy setup with a cable". But purple isn't a typical wire-in-cable color, so I assume your wires are in conduit as described in Harper's answer.

Colored wires are NOT neutral. No exception there.

So that leaves two possibilities:

You misunderstood the function of the wires

For example, the purple and black wires might be switched hot and appear dead until a switch is flipped. No current doesn't mean "neutral".

The wires are connected in a very strange, possibly not code compliant, manner

In any case, figuring out where these wires are going is necessary before doing anything with the wires or replacing the wires. It is impossible to guess what someone else did. If everything is working and you open up a switch and everything looks "normal" then it is normally OK to swap things based on normal expectations. But when you start with capped wires with no known matching switch, you are just guessing. And guessing can be dangerous.

The first thing I would do is get a non-contact tester. They are not 100% reliable - nothing is. But they are generally safer for poking around unknown areas than a tester with open metal tips. Plus you can use it easily one-handed. Something like:

Klein tester

Then figure out what breaker controls the wires. You should find the tester showing voltage on at least one wire (based on your description, the white wire, but I suspect it may be different with a different type of tester) and when you turn off the right breaker you'll find no voltage on any of the wires. Turning off the breaker will be necessary for doing any work anyway, so you might as well figure that out first. Simply knowing what else is on the same circuit might provided clues as to where the wires go.

Then you need to figure out where the wires go. Once you figure that out, we may be able to help explain how it all works - or how the wires in this box should be connected to a light.


What natural-wood finish should I use to protect a door from pet scratches?

Hey Niall, Several coats (4-5?) of a good oil based urethane is gonna be the best protection, but even that is gonna show dog scratches eventually and won't protect the raised panel details that will get rounded over by Fido. Short of a protective barrier, like a piece of thin plexi, I don't know of a thing that will hold up to repetitive scratching, sorry.


Air Conditioner - water standing in condenser housing

A drip pan backing up is very common.
Look for the drain, there is probably some growth of moss / mildew and dust growing in the drain. Don’t use vinegar to clean it vinegar will Dissolve the galvanized coating over multiple uses and is hard on the coils.
The drain is usually on the outside edge and I always tilt the pan so that is the low point.


Installation options for an electric dryer

If i assume correctly you do not have a 220v outlet for your electric drier.
The most economical thing to do is Sell the electric drier and buy a gas drier. You may loose a little money selling it but it will likely be  more of a loss/expense to pay to have a new outlet installed.
The gas drier is (probably) going to have a lower energy cost to operate and the cost of Having an electrician install a 220v drier outlet  MAY be a significant expense. (for a variety of reasons)
We can not tell you what it would cost, you can get an electrician to give your an estimate to find out.


Can you have different types of vents on a single roof?

You should read up on some of the roof ventilation articles at Building Science -- they provide a lot of resources and actual studies.

While "adding more ventilation at the peak" is an "easy" thing for a contractor to fix, the first thing that your contractor should be doing if you have mold issues is to make sure the soffit ventilation is working adequately... or that you even have soffit ventilation. The way that most roof structures get ventilated is that air enters through the soffit and exits through the peak due to convection on the roof. The reason that mold is building up is because either air isn't exhausting or air isn't moving enough through all of your bays to dry it up. Just throwing another couple vents up won't necessarily solve this problem.

Where you run into problems is where you have vents of the same type on two different sides of the roof. Because of this, ridge vents aren't really a great solution -- call me a traditionalist, but my preferred attic ventilation solution is turbine or turtle vents on one side of your roof at the manufacturer's recommended distance from the peak, and more-than-adequate soffit ventilation.

Soffit ventilation often gets interrupted because it was installed inadequately in the first place or blown-in or even batt insulation gets shoved into a place where it blocks the flow of air in. You should have baffles in place in any of your attic bays (between the rafters) that have soffit ventilation. My personal favorite as far as operation and installation are Berger Accuvents. (Note: Link is to PDF.) I also prefer continuous soffit vents. If you don't have soffits, you should look into a product that you can apply to a roof without a soffit, such as a vented edge cap.

It would really help to know where you are, because attic ventilation needs are different in different climates. If you live in a climate that experiences winter weather a significant part of the year, you'll want to make sure that your attic ventilation remains clear.


What could cause my garage door opener to stop working?

There are several things that could cause a door opener to not work properly. Tester101 put most of them in his comment, but most of those would at least result in the opener visibly and audibly trying to open the door, and then giving up.

This may sound counterintuitive but my first priority would be getting the light working. Most garage door openers use the light as the primary indicator of a problem, by blinking it a certain number of times. Replace all bulbs in the unit (preferably with bulbs designed for use in high-vibration applications) and see if the light will turn on.

The second thing to do is verify that whatever control you are using to try to open the door is properly connected and/or programmed. Replace any batteries, check the inputs on any hard-wired switch or panel, and have the opener "re-learn" any wireless control modules you're using. Understand that many systems require at least one hard-wired multi-function switch in order to access all the features of the opener.

Also check all the safety interlocks. Most openers on the market will not operate at all without the electronic eye system properly installed, connected, aligned and the lenses cleaned. Certain systems may have eyes at multiple levels to allow the eye to "see" things that could cross the threshold at different levels, like a car bumper vs a truck bumper; every installed eye system, and there must be at least one, must be working properly.

Next, pull the red handle on the traveller shuttle to disconnect the door from the drive mechanism. Press the garage door button, and see if the chain drive operates. If so, the problem is the door; it's locked, jammed or improperly counterbalanced. If it still doesn't move, the problem is the drive mechanism; either the travel settings are messed up, such that the door thinks it's fully up or down no matter what position it's really in, or else the motor has burned out, seized up, slipped a gear, etc. Try adjusting the travel and see if the drive will move. Also, some openers are pressure-sensitive and will abort closing if they sense that the door is pressing on something (like a kid who tried to slip through and got caught); that pressure sensitivity is often adjustable, and you may have it set to be too sensitive so it's tripping based on the weight of the door itself.

If none of these at least indicates a further course of action, you're probably looking at replacing the door opener.


When replacing a window, what are the pros/con of a retrofit vs new construction?

The major difference between a new construction and retrofit window is the way the new window frame is attached to the house.

To install a new construction window the installer will have to chip away the original stucco, cut away some interior drywall, remove the window, remove the paper backing behind the stucco, and then once the new window is in ensure the window is properly flashed and re-wrapped properly to ensure everything is watertight.  After that, they will patch the stucco which was removed to perform the window install.

In a retrofit install, the windows include a Z-bar or Flush fin which which allows the installer to cut down and reuse the existing window frame to mount the retrofit window frame to.  The flush fin (Z-bar) covers the gap between the inside of the existing frame and the exterior of the replacement window and allows you to simply install the window from outside rather than tearing out the exterior stucco and interior drywall.

If your original windows were installed correctly and aren't leaking the retrofit windows would be the way to go in my opinion.  You will lose a tiny bit of window viewing area using the retrofits, but the install time will be much faster (and of course much less expensive) and there's no worry about tearing up the inside and outside of your house.  I've never seen patched stucco that looks totally right either.  The energy savings will be there regardless of the installation method you choose.


Occupancy sensor immediately off after on

The first step is to read through the user's guide, and make sure it's not in a "test" mode. If after reading the manual it still wasn't working, I'd exchange it for a different unit.

If the new unit didn't work, I'd either try a different brand/model, or forget about using an occupancy sensor.


What should I use to replace extra thick (1.75") sill plate? Should I shim 2x dimensional lumber?

You can go two ways with it. You can purchase a 4X6 or possibly a 3X6 and have it ripped to the 1 3/4" thickness you need, presuming the original is close to 5-6" wide. Or you could get the standard 2X6 and use non shrink grout to tuck under the plate after it is shimmed up in places to allow the grout to go in the areas that are the most important, under the joists. In either case the material need to be pressure treated since you have termites present in the area.

An added third way, you could even shim the joists with the sill plate tight on the block with no grout and use wood shims. Pleas please do not use masonite, it is terrible for shim stock.


Rewiring part of a circuit, how to properly terminate old branches?

If you have enough space in your existing outlet boxes (including box fill calculations), you can cap the K&T wires and simply tuck them out of the way. I'd also recommend electrical tape to ensure that nothing accidentally moves or gets exposed, especially since this is a permanent disconnect.

If there isn't enough space, you can use a surface-mount junction box over the existing outlet box, or, as I've recently done, a raceway outlet box. You can cap and tape the K&T in the old, recessed outlet box and pull the new cables further forward into the surface mounted box. When you're all done, cleanup is as simple as removing the surface mounted box and tucking everything back into the recessed box.


Is there too much gravel under this deck?

No problem with too much gravel. You could level it out toward the right a bit to get the gravel off the support structures for the skirting but i don't see that as a problem. The problems I usually see are not enough gravel.


Soundproofing a room from outside traffic noise and vibrations

With difficulty. If you really mean "soundproof", you're essentially talking about the equivalent of building a sound studio, so I'd suggest websearching for discussions of building a home studio to learn the tricks and techniques. Depending on exactly how much sound you need to block, at what frequencies, there are different techniques. Don't forget floor and ceiling as possible paths, especially for low frequencies.

Discussed some of this with a friend who was building a fairly serious studio. Walls with offset studs (drywall on each side attaches only to every other stud, never both to the same stud) so there isn't a direct mechanical path from outside to inside; that cuts down bass leakage. Fill those walls with sand (yes, that's a lot of weight, and a maintenance hassle should you ever have to do anything to those walls; this was in his basement) to cut down treble leakage. Install an acoustic ceiling, suspended from elastic fittings, to reduce noise coming from above. (Which required that he increase headroom, which required that he sister joists with iron C-beam so he could cut back the wood and gain a few inches.) I think he had some specific design for the floor as well, but I don't remember what the plan was there.

Even so, he was mostly planning on recording at hours when there was minimal traffic in the area, and (I believe) he was assuming he'd have to turn off his heating system while recording to keep its noise from coming through.

And he didn't have to worry about windows. Or the door, since the studio door would open to the control room which was similarly soundproofed and would provide some isolation.

If you're willing to settle for just reducing the noise, there are less expensive things you can do.


How many and how heavy of container plants can a rooftop deck handle?

While I realize that it's disappointing not to have every question easily answered by the internet for free, there is no way to correctly and reliably answer this question than to consult with (yes, pay money $$$ to) a civil/structural engineer, preferably one licensed to practice in your local jurisdiction (State, since you are in the USA.)

For 5 different houses, built differently, there will be 5 different answers. There is no "General" answer, and the stakes are at least your house, if not the lives of your family if you get it wrong and collapse the place while you are all asleep, etc. It is NOT a good place to "guess."

Joining a community garden near your house might make more sense as a way to get garden space.


Your bladder has a slight leak, and water is leaking in to the airside, raising the air pressure. It will eventually fill with water, and you will see water coming out of the bladder when you attempt to bleed it down.


Building a Work Area in the Basement - Requesting Feedback

Echoing Steven's answer, I wouldn't do kitchen cabinets either.  I would get/build a real workbench that can hold 100's of lbs on the surface.
If you aren't up to building your own, you can buy some nice-looking kits from Lowe's, Home Depot, Sears, or Sam's Club.  Maybe start with a ready-made workbench as the core of your workshop, and build the remaining shelving and storage yourself.
Here is what I use for my workbench.  I picked it because I liked the metal surface.  Since then, I saw this one at Sams, and I might pick that if I had a do-over.
Some things to consider that you may have not thought about:

Tools come in all shapes and sizes.  Big long things that need to be hung up.  Small things that go in a drawer.  Odd-shaped things that need a big open shelf.  Your needs will change over time.  Someone will buy you a nice big circular saw for Christmas, and then you'll discover it doesn't fit on the shelf.  Adjustable shelving and modular storage will go a long way.

Don't just think about tool storage.  Think about storage for supplies and scraps. You will accumulate a wide variety of nails, screws, wall anchors, nuts, bolts, washers, plumbing fittings, etc.  These will all need little drawers and bins for storage.  (Here is what I use)
Also, you will end up with big scrap pieces of wood, metal, and plumbing that will need a home.  This stuff won't fit in a drawer or on a shelf.  You'll want a big open box (a trash can works pretty well).

Vice (or "vise" depending on who you talk to).  Get one and bolt it to your workbench.  Holding stuff with your hand while you cut it is not fun.  There are different sizes of vices, with different types of jaws (smooth, jagged, etc).  Make sure you get one that is big enough to handle the pieces you expect to be working with.  Also, it is a good idea to pick a jaw type that can hold your work piece without damaging it.  I have a set of Vice Jaw Inserts that I use for delicate items.

Dust collection.  Cutting wood is messy.  You should have a decent Shop Vac (or equivalent) in easy reach of wherever you will be doing most of your cutting.  You may also want to consider locating your workbench/cutting area as far away from the laundry as possible so you don't end up with sawdust in your clothes.

Lighting.  A single bare bulb may seem like enough light in a regular basement, but it won't be enough when you're hunched over you workbench casting a shadow.  You will need some extra lighting.

Power.  You will need outlets all over the place.  Power saws have beefy current requirements, so long thin extension cords are a bad idea.  Also, the standard 15A circuit for all of your basement outlets may not be enough.  If you want to run your Circular Saw at the same time as your Shop Vac, expect a blown breaker.  Consider putting your workshop outlets on their own 20A circuit.  The circuit should be protected by a GFCI.  Pay extra for the heavy duty receptacles.  I like the tamper resistant outlets, because they keep dust out, and also seem to do a better job holding the plugs in.
Keep in mind that local codes probably call for all exposed electrical wiring in a workshop to be protected by solid metal conduit (protection against flying sharp/heavy debris).  If you install any new outlets, make sure they are protected accordingly.  If you have existing exposed wire runs, consider re-doing them with conduit, or nailing some plywood over the studs to cover the wires.

Fire Extinguisher.  Power tools, heat, sparks, fire.  Get a fire extinguisher that is at least 3A:40BC rated.  I would recommend 4A:60BC.  Make sure it is in arms reach while working (a few seconds can save your house).  Depending on your workshop layout, you may also want a second extinguisher by the door (e.g. you walk in the room and discover a flame).

Smoke Alarm.  It looks like the door to this room will be shut most of the time.  Does that room have its own smoke alarm?  If not, it should.  Consider a dual sensor smoke alarm to detect "fast" and "slow" fires.  If your existing smoke alarms are interconnected, you should connect the new one to the existing system.

First Aid Kit.  Should be in arms reach of the workbench.  Stop the bleeding fast.

Safety Goggles. Use them whenever you are cutting/drilling.  The tiniest little bit of fling crud will burn like hell in your eyes, if not make you blind.

Hearing Protection and Work Gloves (good idea Tester101).  Power saws are loud.  Scared my wife the first time I used my circular saw.  You can damage your hearing.  Gloves will help if you pinch your hands, and can dampen vibration from power tools.  (Get good gloves that are comfortable.)

Where will you wash your hands?  Pumice Hand Soap and Shop Towels.  Your spouse may not want these things at the kitchen sink.  I keep mine in the basement bathroom.  And don't wipe your hands with the "good towels"!


The flare fitting seems to indicate that it is gas supply tubing that leads to an appliance of some sort. It must lead to a gas dryer, gas cooker, gas grill, gas water heater, or gas fireplace (or did at one time). The valve is OFF, so there should be no harm disconnecting the old line and using the line to supply whatever you want; obviously whatever it leads (or led) to is not in service.


Are those hooks usable for hanging coats and hats?

To prevent stuff from sliding off the poles, yet keep the same look, you can try spraying the exposed poles with some kind of clear rubberized coating like this


The specifications are in the middle panel of the sticker (with the security standards at the bottom of the right panel.  While it would probably be extremely difficult to get the testing results on the actual window model itself, all of the specs give minimum performance requirements and the certification means that the model passed.

The relevant ones are ANSI/AAMA 101-93 (the DH-C## ones are for double hung condensation resistance), AAMA 1302.5, AAMA 1303.5, ASTM F 588 and ASTM F 842, which cover forced entry resistance.

You can find a pretty good simplified run-down in this pdf.  If you want all the gory details, the full specification is available here, but I'm not sure it's the most recent version.


I think you've got the LINE and LOAD swapped.  I think the red wire from the switch, should go to the single black wire that was on the old switch.  I'd guess that the bundle of black wires is made up of the feeder, a feed to another branch, and the pigtail to the switch.


How to diagnose single tub faucet with no hot water?

If you're handy at all repairing this type of faucet is typically not a big deal. I'm assuming from your description that the cold water side works.
As you indicated, it could be calcium build-up but it might not as well. The problem is almost always with the cartridge and occasionally in the shutoff valve. Turn off the water supply to the faucet. Hopefully there is an accessible shutoff. With the water off you should be able to remove the handle and any retaining nut that would be holding the cartridge in place. They're all a little different so watch carefully how you take it apart to make sure you get it back together properly. Sometimes the cartridge will unscrew. Once it's out the best approach is to replace it. Usually your local home center will have one. However, check it for debris. I've had situations where the washer in the shutoff valve had crumbled and pieces of the washer were blocking the flow. If that's the case come back and someone will walk you through how to repair/replace it. I've included a picture of a Moen cartridge for a roman tub faucet so you know what it looks like. Yours may be different.

Edit
First, are you on a well or on city water? Wells sometimes kick up sediment that can get into the water system.
Obviously, debris is coming from somewhere in your water supply lines. I can't tell you specifically where but I can possibly help you track it down. Since it's occurring at several locations throughout the house the problem must be somewhere in the main water line at some point before the pipes split off to supply those faucets.

Check all of your faucets by removing the filter screens on each faucet. Even if they're not totally blocked you may see some of that black sediment. Make note of those faucets with the sediment and those without.
Check the black sediment. Can it be rubber pieces or is it like sand? If it's sand it probably is coming in with your water supply. If it's like hardened rubber it's probably caused by something in your water system.
If only some faucets are affected the problem will be somewhere on the line before those lines tee off to their respective rooms. Check any of the shutoff valves on that line by turning them off to see if they stop water flow to the faucets. If water continues to seep through when it's off, and that valve is a washered valve, it may be part of the problem and needs to be replaced or repaired with a new washer.
If all faucets have some of the black sediment the problem is somewhere along the main water line or even with the water supply itself.
At this point check any in-line devices you have including filtering systems, water softeners, RO systems, etc. These systems have gaskets and filters that if not properly maintained can cause rubber parts to disintegrate.
Lastly, check your main shutoff using the method described above. I doubt the problem is at the main shutoff unless it is a washered valve. It will probably be a gate valve or ball valve neither of which has rubber washers.

Hopefully, this will help identify the cause - if not, you need to call your water company and see if they've been doing any repair work in the area. Good Luck!


What should I do with insulation in basement ceiling?

Do not remove the insulation. You will degrade the overall effectiveness of the R-value (insulation rating) of the walls.

Continue the finish materials (it looks like wallboard) up into the cavities between the floor joists. You will need to install vertical nailing strips on the sides of the joists, and on on the underside of the subfloor would also be a good idea.

You can then tape the horizontal butt seam, sand and paint.


I had similar problem. Removed the vent cap next to faucet on sink,turned dishwasher on & clog came out from the dishwasher vent..along with water! So be ready with towel.


"Should I use Tyvek or tar paper on basement walls?"

Neither. No building paper or wrap against the foundation. Just use foam it is not really all that difficult to cut.

The best practice really is to use rigid foam against the foundation wall, then a framed (possibly insulated) wall with drywall and no vapour barrier.

Batt insulation in the framed wall is debatable. Green Building Advisor has articles that say it's not a good idea because it can absorb moisture, but others sources have no problems with it. If you do use it (I would if you are in a cold climate and don't have existing moisture problems in your basement), I personally prefer mineral wool over fiberglass.

Don't forget about the cavity above the wall in the joist spaces.

Trusted Sources (read them!)

Built Wrong From the Start (Fine Homebuilding) [PDF]
Basement Insulation for all climates (Building Science Corporation) [PDF]
How To Insulate a Basement Wall (Green Building Advisor)

Good Luck!


Replace old receptacle/switch combination with a GFCI/switch combination

Given the wire topology you have there, it ain't gonna happen.
There is no way to protect another recep with only 3 wires coming into the box.  You need a minimum of 4: unprotected supply Hot and Neutral, and protected-zone Hot and Neutral.
You can install that GFCI+recep+switch combo, but you won't be able to use the LOAD terminals for anything, and the only socket that will be protected will be the one right there.


The subpanels ground is not bonded to main panels neutral busbar

Short answer, you do want a ground conductor between the main panel and subpanel (not just a ground rod at the subpanel) and you only want the neutral bonded to the ground at the main panel.

The ground rod alone is not sufficient - although there would be a path through ground back to the main building's ground, that is not a low impedance path, it wouldn't be low enough to clear a fault, not safe, etc.

The ground conductor could be a metal conduit from panel to panel provided it's installed properly so that it creates a continuous path back to the main panel.


How important is it to use 4x12 vs 4x8 sheets of drywall?

Its really not important for the end result.  What matters is the workmanship and quality of the installation.  Poorly finished drywall of any size sheet is still poorly finished.  Instead of negotiating a price to install 4x12s, try and find out if they offer a warranty.  My drywaller gives a 1 year guarantee against cracks or sags.  I just get out of his way and let him work, then pay him once I approve the job.  He can use green board, 4x12, 4x8 or 2x2 squares for all I care as long as the finished product looks good and he backs up his work with a guarantee.


Roofing nails through 95 year old tongue/groove soffits

Depending on how far up your roof is, if you paint it you probably won't notice the nails penetrating.

This is fairly common when there is no decorative soffit and just the underside of non plywood sheathing.  Yours did look surprisingly good before. I've never seen one that didn't end up looking like a bed of nails but the ones I see have typically been painted since the nails went in and while visible have a similar character to the un-sanded, partially peeled paint that was painted overtop on a lot of your woodwork (old, looking decent but missing finer detailing/workmanship).