Replacing Light fitting (too many cables?)

You have two incompatible fittings.

The UK ceiling rose is standard - it is normally¹ the place where wiring is connected to and from other nearby lights (including those in other rooms). That is why there are more wires than you might expect.

In fact you have fewer wires than I would expect. Perhaps the light is the last one in a radial lighting circuit - so no onward cable. Perhaps there has also been some other non-standard or unusual wiring arrangement.

In any case you cannot assume that you simply connect together all wires of the same colour. When you replace a light, it is usually necessary to make a careful note of the existing connections and not disturb anything other than the two wires (plus earth where needed) to the light.

UK ceiling roses use the lamp cord to suspend the weight of the light. Strain relief is provided in the ceiling rose.

The Ikea lighting connector is of a type more prevalent in continental Europe. I believe it is designed to hang from a ceiling hook. It can probably support more weight.

You need to either

Adapt the ceiling rose to take your Ikea connector

Replace the ceiling rose with an accessible junction box
Add a ceiling hook supported in a ceiling joist.

or

Remove the Ikea connector

Remove the white plastic part with the connectors labelled L and N from the black wires and discard it.
Connect the two black wires from the light to the outermost connections on the ceiling rose.
The black wire formerly connected to L for live (or "line" in modern terms) goes to the connection where the brown wires are in your picture.
The other black wire formerly connected to N for neutral goes to the blue wires.
However, for the black wires it doesn't actually matter which one goes where, assuming there is no on-off switch in the light itself. Switches always need to be in the live side.

I recommend the latter approach.

See also

Wiring up a ceiling light with earth cable
http://www.ceilingrosewiring.co.uk/ceiling-rose-wiring-new-cable-colours/

Addendum

Typical wiring for UK light circuits

Notes

The brown tape on blue wire indicates switched live (this blue wire is not neutral). Sometimes this tape falls off and gets lost.
Grey cables are "twin and earth" (T&E)
The cable between switch and rose should ideally be "twin brown and earth" with two brown wires. Most electricians just use the ordinary T&E and use tape to mark the blue wire.
Some electricians swap the position in the rose of the brown and blue from the switch. When you see the blue connected to two browns you are expected to understand what the electrician did.
Older homes will have T&E with red and black instead of brown and blue.
Earth wires are bare copper. Green/Yellow striped sleeving must be added inside ceiling rose (or in other junction boxes etc)
Ceiling rose contains all connectors needed.
Last light on a circuit has fewer wires in the rose.

There are many variations on this.

Footnotes

¹ In some UK houses, perhaps mostly in houses built in the early to mid 20th century, wiring junctions were made not in ceiling roses but in separate junction boxes. In some cases, these junctions can occur in the back-boxes for switches. In these cases, the fixed wiring at ceiling roses should be simpler and might consist of only one set of neutral, switched-live and (in more recent installations) earth.

- Hat tip to AndyT for pointing this out.


Can I add a 20A outlet to my 30A water heater circuit?

No. Your water heater is on a 30A circuit because that's (presumably--unless it's extraordinarily small) what it requires. There's no overhead in the circuit for additional load, especially one of that size.


Hypothetical: building an free-standing cabinet wall

A lot of the strength of a wall comes from it being anchored at both the top and bottom. If you only have it anchored at the bottom, your concern that the wall would lean or fail entirely is well-founded. Building a false wall is not a terrible idea, it just needs to be built correctly to handle the expected load. You could also attach directly to the (presumably) concrete block walls using appropriate fasteners and methods.

I would double check that you would even need permits and an inspection. Cabinet installation is not something that usually does, even in basements.


Alright. You have a short in the circuit wiring which was probably caused by switching out the receptacles and switch. That means there is a good chance there is a nicked wire inside one of the boxes and it is making contact with either the ground, neutral or even another hot wire (highly unlikely since you don't have two breakers tripping). You need to examine your wires in the boxes for any burn marks or nicks. Since you are tripping with all of the devices removed, I would start where the circuit begins.

If that doesn't work you may need to get a continuity tester and begin to "ring out" your wiring to see if you can find which part of the circuit is shorting.

PS - I didn't ask if the devices were daisy chained or connected through the devices. If they are daisy chained you need to disconnect and separate the splices before you start testing. In short break it into small individual pieces and find the piece that doesn't work.

PSS If you do have to break apart the splices don't forget to mark or identify all of your conductors.

Good luck and stay safe.


Regardless of color choice, make sure you get tempered safety glass.


Best way to insulate supply duct with minimal clearance

I'd go with the foam board. Spray foam expansion could collapse the duct somewhat and maybe cause some airflow volume issues. Main reason I wouldnt use it would be working on the duct work later would be terrible with all that foam stuck to everything. Just my initial thoughts.


Can I use an airless paint sprayer to paint kitchen cabinets?

You can use an airless sprayer but stay away from the inexpensive models.Consult your paint supplier if thinning is required. The one problem with spraying indoors is overspray and fume buildup in other areas of the house.If it is possible remove the cabinet doors,(mark them so you can tell where they go) and drawers. Mask off the garage floor and plug in a fan blowing out. This will keep the wind and overspray to a minimum.The face frames and cabinet sides can be done with a roller. Make sure you use an approved mask or respirator for the paint you are using.


Change/turn the T fitting 90 degrees so it's directing the water perpendicularly away from the wall, then 90 degree elbow towards the faucet, then 90 again.


Standard duty cycle of fridge compressor?

Seems normal from what I have read
Hope my math is correct:
I have a 20yr old 23.3cuft GE side-by-side refrig that runs 45% duty cycle (18min on, 22min off or 18/(18+22) = 18/40 = 45%, after refrig door has been closed for >8hrs.

With the current rating of 11.6 amps at 110v so this is ~.547kw/hr (110v*11.6*.45)
guessing off the top of my head newer compressors & fans don't use this much current so if a new ref will run at same 45% duty cycle the cost savings will be directly proportionate to the amperage reduction (i.e. 25% reduction in amps = 25% reduction in electric bill)

Note in Texas they claim we can get 8.5 cent kw/hr but for four years now and tried four different providers past 6yrs, I only get this rate the first month they sign me up at 8.5 cents then it jumps to 10 cent a Kw hour due to each power providers tricky math; their all lying A$$e$ in my book! Used car salesman tactics of first month cheaper than all the rest. Someone should file a class action against them!


Depends on if you can get a new handle and if there are set screws that hold the handle on.

If you want to fix it and not replace the whole unit, do research on the parts you need.  If you can't get them you will need to replace the whole unit.


How to connect transformer to outlet for humidifier

If I were in your shoes, I'd use a small box (a handy box with a blank cover is A-OK) placed at the rigid to flex junction and supported from a metal hangar strap attached to the ceiling (vs. mounting boxes to the ductwork, which isn't such a hot idea) to hold the "tap" connection to the furnace power wires, and then run a flex (or a MC cable, your pick) over to another strap-suspended box that mounts the transformer (as 24V HVAC transformers generally mount directly to a box) and a single 120VAC outlet for the humidifier's power cord.


Just cut off the bit if you don't need it. How do you plan on securing the grommet to the wall if you remove the bit?


Why are some rooms warmer than others with radiant baseboard heat?

Most hot water baseboard is not radiant to any significant extent - it's a convector (air heater) and most can be adjusted to flow more or less air (resulting in more or less heat) by adjusting "flaps" on the baseboard shell. They can also (especially old setups in place for a long time) be impacted by buildups of hair, lint, dirt, dust-bunnies etc. that block the flow of air, so opening up the shell and vacuuming and/or blowing out decades of detritus can make a big difference.

An article from the Bangor Daily News...


I went to my local hardware store and tried to find some options. I originally attempted an epoxy coat, but it did like was mentioned and quickly came loose and fell off because of the flexible base underneath. I then went back to try something else. I saw this stand for "Fiber Fix" and they had one called 'Rigid Patch' which goes on soft and hardens "like steel" in UV light in about 10 minutes. Completely waterproof and shown to patch canoes, wheelbarrows, water tanks, etc. I figured it was one of those typical as seen on TV items, but it was on sell and cheap so I figured it was worth trying if it did what it says it can.

http://www.fiberfix.com/products/

They come in a black pouch with a clear film on it. They provide gloves and sandpaper as well for working with it. It's almost like a fabric when you get it out and is black on one side and gold on the other. The black side is what sticks and the gold fades away to clear when it's dry. You basically place it down on a dry, clean surface and then almost like massage it on from the edges in. The bottom black is gooey feeling and so is the gold underneath of the clear plastic. You try to smooth it on so that there aren't any air bubbles and get a complete seal around the outside. Let it sit in the sun for 10-15 minutes (or UV light in general) and it'll harden and the gold will disappear when it's done. I also noticed that it gets slightly hot itself while drying. My frosted shower door is between the base and the nearest window and this window isn't on the sunny side of the house, but it was still done in about that 10 minute time. After it's dry, you peel up the clear plastic from it and it's good to go. It feels like a fabric when putting it on, but is smooth like plastic when done. It completely sealed on around the edges, covered the holes, and actually has attached itself so tightly to the base that it doesn't really have any give where I placed the two patches.

To finish it off, I coated most of the shower base in Flex Seal. I'd never used it either and wasn't sure about it, but it also seems to work great. It does give more of a rubbery feel to everything and it takes a day to cure, but it seems like it worked.


Should I be concerned about respiratory hazard from leftover/lurking silica sand from abrasive blasting (sandblasting)?

Silica becomes a hazard with long term exposure.  Wear a mask, face shield and gloves while blasting.  Clean up and you are fine afterwards.  A small amount of exposure will not affect the vast majority of people.  If you have asthma you might want to be a little more aggressive on the clean up.


Concrete column/structure behind drywall

Brick, poured concrete, concrete block are all likely possibilities in a 4-story building.
The solution generally would be the same on all of them: Hammer drill + an appropriate type of fastener. There are a number of different types. One popular one (at least in the US) is Tapcon:

though in this case, I would head over to my local hardware store to see the options first-hand and, if you can find someone there who knows what they are doing, get some advice.
I would consider cutting out a small square of drywall around each fastener location so that you are drilling directly into the brick/concrete/block. Otherwise you may get quite a mess trying to drill through the drywall into the other surface.
Depending on the specifics, sometimes it makes sense to cut out a large section of drywall, attach a piece of wood using appropriate screws and then mount the TV to that wood with wood screws.


Can small supply pipes be combined into a larger supply?

I'm not a plumbing code guru, but I see no problem with what you have planned. The only side effects I can think of are a slight increase in noise (due to the added turbulence) and the possibility of stagnant water in one side, should there be an odd flow imbalance.

Be aware that the two 1/2" lines may not be supplied by a 3/4" line, though. They may just split from a single 1/2" line, whereby your plan would be pointless. A split 1/2" line is probably more common for bathroom sinks, which don't require a lot of flow.


Should hardwood floors go all the way to wall under kitchen cabinets?

It's not the end of the world, but you might consider cutting the pieces so the gap is smaller.
Why?  Some cabinets sit on the floor via little legs.  If the legs were to be exactly where there's no flooring, it becomes uneven.  You'd then have to put something under it the right thickness, which just happens to be your flooring.
If it were me, I'd spend the extra few minutes and rip the pieces to within maybe 1/4 inch of the wall (for expansion/contraction).


Wiring an attic light and bathroom light to a 2 gang switch

The switch and the circuit both look dead simple. I can think of two possibilities.

(1) The switch is defective. Alternatively, the switch is not actually broken but is a special application device and it does not function the way we think it does.

You'd need to borrow or buy another switch and connect it the same way. Tell the store where you bought it that you may have a defective product.

(3) You've wired it wrong but you're blind to the error. This happens to me more often than I like to admit. The first person who comes and looks over my shoulder sees immediately what I've done wrong, and looks at me like I was a chimpanzee.

The symptom you describe indicates you may have wired the switch like this:

which is why I asked about pigtailing vs. doubling up on one terminal -- to make you look at the connections from a different perspective.


Your timer is a spring wound timer that is simply getting stuck. Replace it.

It’s also possible that it’s not screwed together quite right, too tight or too loose either one can cause the knob to bind on the plate.

Also if you’re setting a short time period under 2 hours, turn well past 2 first (to wind the timer) then backup to the desired time such as 1 hour.  (That instructions once existed on the installation/operation instructions but it seems Intermatic no longer specifically details that on the printed sheet.)


A window hinged at the side is called a casement window.

More specifically, that is a slide hinge, manual, sector crank casement window.

Different manufacturers may have a different name for the 'slide hinge' style. Its purpose is to allow easy cleaning of the outside of the pane.

It's 'manual' because you turn the crank by hand. Some industrial buildings have motorized window cranks.

I'll take your word for it that it has a worm drive. Mine have little pinion gears. If the mechanism includes a member that looks like a partial gear wheel attached to a lever, that's a 'sector crank'.

If you're searching or shopping for this kind of window, don't bother with the 'worm drive' and 'sector crank' terms as these vary with manufacturer choice. Use the terms 'casement' and 'slide hinge' to find these kinds of windows.


How big do I frame the door entrance for a closet sliding door

although every situation is different, generally when you frame the opening, add:

horizontal
3/4" to each side for the jamb (or whatever the jamb thickness is)
1/2" to each side for the gap for shimming the jamb
1/4" extra for bifold or french doors

vertical
3/4" to the height for the jamb (or whatever the jamb thickness is)
1/2" for the shimming at the top
3/8" to the bottom for the gap between door and floor (we usually do 1/2", or 3/4" if there are carpets or matts being used in winter

so for a 72 x 80 bypass door, your RO will be approx 75 x 82.  since its a bypass door and the floor could be out of level, i would do 75 x 82 1/2.

remember too that trim will cover a lot of stuff up, particularly now when most casings are in the 4" or wider range.


Is this water stain from rust or (other) minerals

Well I think that the best way to determine that is that you ask yourself is there any iron or steel elements which could corrode? If you built the house (bought it new etc.) you should know that. Also you can check design blueprints to check this out. Also check if metal is detraining which means rust. From what I see in the pictures this doesn't look like rust. Anyway if none of this is helpful or isn’t helpful enough notify me so we will try to find different approach.


Have you verified that the hot is actually hot? Not to insult, but verify that the hot and neutral are identified and connected correctly. Use meter to go from hot to ground and verify voltage and neutral to ground to verify no voltage.


Are air vents in a house intended to let some air through when they're closed? Would it be bad to completely seal it?

Sealing vents off can damage the duct work and shorten blower life. I have had to open walls where the owner closed a couple of bedroom vents this caused the main duct to split inside a wall I would not totally seal it off it may not sound like much but the main duct has a large area and the flex lines can break loose or metal trunk lines can split I have seen both.


Do I need to install aerial wall outlets or is there a wireless solution?

One solution I have used in the past is the HD Home Run.  It is an OTA tuner that outputs to your home WIFI network.  To receive the output, you can use a PC with Windows media player, an XBox or Playstation, or your smart TV if it supports DLNA.

I personally used a PC to receive the signal, and then connected my PC to my TV to view.  The nice part about that is that Windows Media Player has a free program guide for OTA tv, and can act as a DVR.


How can I tell if a remnant of granite matches my counter?

Whether the photos are good, perfect or rubbish, if the pieces are not from the same stone then they will not match.

They might be ok if they are not close together ie they are separated on different worktops.


What is the 4" white pvc pipe in Pool patio concrete slab?

Probably a place to insert a umbrella pole
It's randomly located so likely not a drain. Any water that near the pool would likely drain into the pool.
Edited to add this picture as an example of one, and a link to the seller
https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/pool/aquastar-us105-umbrella-stands/5841p1


Question on drywall patch in the ceiling

The best way to make the repair will be to cut a square hole that will catch half of a joist on the top and bottom.  Trying to make it work with just one joist isn't a good option for a repair like this that needs to help support a vent.

Carefully cut the vent square in the patch and float the seams as usual to make a finished patch.


How to insulate around a brick basement window?

Normally, windows are installed into masonry with a wooden "buck", a frame wrapping all sides with treated lumber. (See photos #1 and #2.) This is bolted and sealed to the concrete or brick. The window is installed inside the buck with a small gap, which is itself insulated and sealed, and a finished extension jamb is installed to the interior of the window frame where necessary.

In your case, the best you can do is seal all gaps with more spray foam. I'd mask the entire window with tape, then spray the brick face with thin layers. Wait until the foam expands, then add more if needed.

The gap at the top of the photo needs to be addressed, too. I'd probably fill i with fiberglass batt insulation. Stuff it loosely, but completely full. I'd need better photos of that area to offer more advice.


Sure you can, the size wire will be based on your load. I would put in 2 or 4x what you think you need to start with because as soon as you get it done you will find something else you want then in 5 years a electric car charger , I have never reduced the size of a service but many times gone back and increased the service in 1 case we did it 3 times , a few lights and outlets a 30amp 240 v feed would be fine but get a 100 amp main breaker panel and put in at least 1” conduit now you can run #10 thhn/thwn wires wire to the panel and in the future if you need larger you can go all the way up to #4. You put a 30 amp double pole breaker in the main panel and your sub panel is set up for future possible growth. A garage or out building all the outlets need to have GFCI protection even the ceiling receptacles, if the lights are direct wire they don’t require GFCI protection. You will also need a ground rod with #6 copper going to the ground buss and the Neutral buss needs to be isolated from ground in a sub panel (they are connected in the main only). Hope that helps. FYI your voltage drop at a full 30 amp load would be 2.62% the max recommended is 3% so you are good there, if you can afford larger wire go as big as you can, I purchase wire online much of the time and one place to get a good deal is wireandcableyourway.com no association other than having purchased thousands of feet, best price but takes a few days.

Always purchase more than what you measure if your total length is 112’ panel to panel order 117’ it is better to waste a couple of feet than be an inch short and even measuring with mule tape that is marked every foot I find I always need at least a foot or 2 more than the measurement was , my apprentice just learned this lesson on a 150’ pull he ordered the wire pre cut at 154 and we ended having to splice lucky we were inside a machine center and could splice or we would had to put a junction box in and splice there wasting more wire as the breaker was at floor level and the conduit was in the ceiling he now has no problem wasting a few feet.


How to best measure the inside gap of stairs

I would measure the front and the back of each stair with a tape measure.   If they are the same you are in luck and you don't really need to do much other than make your cut.
If it is the end of summer where you live I would cut these pretty tight.   You should have to knock them into place - not forcefully.   If it is the end of winter however I would leave a 1/8" gap - 1/16" on each side to allow for expansion.
If you stairs are not square I wouldn't rely on a template - I would measure and map out each tread.   In years of doing houses I have ran into this twice out of 100+... and both times I could have told you that there were issue (settling caused stairs to be completely off level on older historic house).


Can I use leaded glass for tall window in stairwell?

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/building-codes-tempered-glass-close-stairs-102700.html

"The code makes an exception for any glazing that meets these stipulations but is protected by a horizontal rail on the accessible side of the glass. The rail must be positioned between 34 and 38 inches above the walking surface and capable of withstanding 50 pounds of force per foot without touching the glass."

So, you take your stained glass window and protect it with a railing, and you're now code-compliant. (Check the actual code first instead of trusting the Internet, though.)


How do you remove paint and rust from outdoor chairs?

I would try a wire brush first. Either a hand model or a rotary one that would fit into your power drill may do the trick.  You can also get small toothbrush size wire brushes to get into the small spots.  Good Luck


What do you do with left over caulk in a tube?

I wrap any adhesive tape I have on hand into a tube extending a short distance beyond the tip of the nozzle and pinch it shut at the end, then I dispense some product into the tape. This allows the product itself to seal the tube on the outside of the tube.

When you're ready to use the tube again, yank off the tape and the dried plug and you should have a fresh nozzle.


A possibility is that following a warm shower as the metal water pipes cool after shutting off the valve, the tubing contracts more than the water in it, and some water is forced out the shower head.

If you want to prevent this, let the shower head hang down for a time after you turn off the water so most of the water in the flexible connecting tube drains out.


Which way should air flow through this oil/water filter

tool --> female-filter-male <-- compressor

By putting the male end toward the compressor, the water drain valve will be on the "low end" when you drain it.


Leaking joint/pipe. What product to use?

As others have said, fixing this isn't a "get the right stuff to apply to the join" situation, but a "completely redo the join using the correct method" situation. Your plumber did a complete hack job; you risk sewage leaking into your home, as well as backflow into your (I'm guessing) washing machine. And, any sort of caulk you apply will only work temporarily. And, what happens when you want to move the washing machine for service?

If this was done by a "real" plumber, then you should definitely get them back to do it right.

(I don't have the chops to recommend a full fix; perhaps someone else will add an answer that does.)


How can I replicate this drywall texture?

That looks to me like a texture that developed over the years, inadvertently, with application of multiple layers of paint using a nappy roller.

You could try to duplicate by spray texturing in a "small blot" pattern, then knocking it down with a low nap roller. There are probably other ways... maybe a stippling roller would come close.

Bottom line is there is no way to really perfectly match any texture. Even pros need lots of practice and trial and error...


How to join two 1x6s to form a 23' baseboard with a seamless transition?

The standard practice is a 30 degree scarf joint preferably joined on a stud. I like to miter my two end with the same setting so I know the angle is perfect(when possible) then take my pieces to their wall a little over sized and scribe them to the floor (making sure the top line of the trim is on plane) and mark out for your end cuts. Once fit, position your pieces and join them with glue and micro pins(skip this if you don't have a micro pinner, brads just make a mess). Let it tack up for a minute and the start securing it with finishing nails. Try to crisscross nails at the scarf without getting too close to the joint.  Cheers!


Cord plug amperage rating for 3-phase machine

3 Phase NEMA cord caps jump from 30 amps to 50 amps so you would need a 50.
 What is the voltage? this will define the style of outlet and cord cap.
480 V would use a NEMA L16-50 this is a true 3 phase with ground (4 wire). If you are using a system that also requires a neutral you will need the 5 wire.


Particular wood filler suitable for oil finish?

Without knowing the specific end use and history of the wood or the scale of the project I can only give you three general techniques and you can choose which one suits your needs best.

Paste Filler.
 This comes in a variety of forms but essentially its exactly what it sounds like. It hardens to a sand-able surface, takes stain and finish more like wood than other fillers and some varieties can be applied in large quantities (hardwood floors filler). Some are water based, and some use solvents (acetone and MEK). In this case (and this case only) the water based is just as good as solvent but not if it's for exterior use.
Oil Putty.
 This is the finish carpenter's choice for puttying nail holes in finish grade trim and other small repairs and fills. It comes in a variety of colors that can be mixed to achieve any shade. The putty is applied after finish so it goes on soft and stays flexible. Its great for small fixes but would be impractical to patch large voids or large areas.
Epoxy
 This is just a clear, two-part adhesive tinted with pigment to create a hard, durable, stable patch, here's a helpful link: West System. This method is great for filling things like knots and surface checking. We primarily use it on reclaimed lumber to fill the defects prior to finishing. Epoxy can be used inside and out, on small or large areas but it is the most expensive of the three options.

Whatever your situation, one of these three should work. The only general advice I can give you is, whatever method you use, make sure your fill is at least as dark or darker than the wood. Light filler really stands out. The catch is that many woods (cherry, fir, mahogany) darken significantly over time so you have to adjust by eye and your gut. Cheers!


Running two cables meant for different loads directly from 200Amp electric meter

The solution is (essentially) a small but heavy-duty panel at the meter. These are often designed as a combination (look for "meter main") so that you can feed a handful of large loads and/or subpanels from the meter - which is exactly what you are trying to do. Avoids double-tapping the lugs and provides a safe shutoff for each subpanel separately so that you only need to get the power company involved one time, unless you need to replace the meter main.
Something like this Eaton CH 200A 8-space:

They have some slightly smaller ones, but I wouldn't go smaller than 8 spaces, because each 240V circuit will take 2 spaces. So from a practical standpoint, I would consider it as a panel to feed up to 4 subpanels. But, for example, you might have 2 subpanels (as planned) and use one of the spaces for a convenience circuit or for outdoor lighting.


small floresent tube removal from a wooden dislay unit

Reverse engineer the tube

Go to the store and find the replacement tube. Look at the ends.

If they are single nubs (probably not), you slide the tube linearly to compress a socket at one end - anyone's guess which.

If you see two pins on each end, the vast majority of those involve rotating the tube 90 degrees (or nearly so), then it slides/wiggles straight out.  A small number involve the tube snapping straight in.

When choosing a new tube, look closely at CRI (color rendering index).  Older fluorescents were positively pallid.  New fluorescents must be 80 CRI or better, which is quite good.  It's like steam locomotives and carburetors, they got really excellent just as they were going obsolete.

Hulk! Smash!  Then go with 12V LED strips

The other option is to remove the tube ungracefully, mindful that fluorescent tubes contain a very small amount of mercury.

Then obtain common "LED strips" in either monochrome in any of several color temperatures (including adjustable), or RGB or RGBW color... Obtain a dimmer/blender/controller if you want that, and a 12V DC power supply that plugs into the wall.   Many outfits on Amazon and eBay sell this stuff a-la-carte, or in complete kits for about $20 for the works, including 16 feet of LED strip.  Better vendors charge more (often, usuriously more) but have better control of CRI.

You should brace yourself for the fact that LEDs never fail, so take care to choose the right stuff the first time, as there won't be a second.   Power supplies and controllers do fail, but are cheap and easy to replace.


How to prevent vermin from entering garage via space under garage door?

Install weatherstripping on bottom of garage door. From the pics, I can't tell if the garage door rolls up or swings to open.

If the door rolls up, the weatherstripping can be installed on the very bottom of the door. Weatherstripping comes in various shapes and thicknesses. Filling a 1 1/2" to 2" gap seems excessive, but possible.

If the door swings, then the weatherstripping will rub on the floor so you need a threshold mounted on the floor and directly under the garage door. Then you can install weatherstripping on the door and have it "reach down and touch" the threshold. So, when you swing open the door, the weatherstripping will "come off" the threshold and not touch the slab.

Remember, those vermin can squeeze through a very tiny hole, COMPLETELY fill the gap.


I would open up the receptacle box if possible to see what's going on, but the only way I can think that these readings would be plausible would be if the outlet neutral is not connected to a neutral conductor going back to the panel but is instead shorted to H1. That would produce the readings you've recorded. And if your old stove didn't use the neutral conductor, it would work fine.


It is called a miter drop. Check Instagram or the web or a good trim carpentry book. It's not as complex as it looks and it is the right way to do it.

The person whose image this is has many versions shown on his page  including wrapping around a corner and is an amazing carpenter.


How do I get a plastic bag logo stain off my finished wood table?

Per the question, I used Minwax until it faded, but it was still quite obvious and visible (close to the last pic in the question post).

Then, taking a page from the "mayo and ashes" tip, I mixed 1-part mayonnaise (Hellman's) to 1-part baking soda (not baking powder; I used Arm & Hammer brand) as a cigarette ashes replacement.  I rubbed the mixture along the grain directions using a paper towel and some pressure.

The stain faded, then vanished.  The resulting wood is smooth, and considering the baking soda is abrasive, appears unscratched.  After wiping off the mayo mix, my table may smell like a turkey sandwich, but it's beautiful again.

Now all I have to do is polish off all the Minwax buildup from my earlier cleaning attempts.

I would never have thought of going with the grain had I not spoken to the lady from Restore and Adore, and had the baking soda idea fell through, I would have gone with the "last resort" 4 0 steel wool with a lot of Minwax applied.

Pic of the repair:


You are much better off using an anchor that is probably way over engineered for your artwork.  For instance I would get a 150 lb anchor (or even better) like this.  If you go straight into the stud you can really need a thicker screw for a lot of weight or it could sag.  Problem I would foresee is the hole in artwork for screw not being big or deep enough for said screw.


Why does washing machine not empty tub when finished, but instead start any program by emptying it?

The program probably empties the tub both before AND after a cycle. That way, if you terminate a cycle in the middle (e.g. power loss), and then start a new cycle, it will empty out any remaining water before it continues.

The few hundred ml of water that comes out at the beginning is probably because at the end all the water ran back down the pipe and pooled around the outlet, priming the pump and getting it ready for another blurp of pumping (technically speaking).


60 amp sub panel, 100 ft away from main panel. Grounding rod or not?

Same building, just supply ground and neutral in appropriate sizes and separate, and be sure that ground and neutral are not bonded in the sub-panel.

6AWG copper (as a cable, which typically limits you to the 60C rating...) is maybe pushing it a bit depending how loaded that 60A panel is.


Is it normal for GFI test button to trip GFI when the circuit is dead?

Ok 2 parts, yes you are misunderstanding how a (listed) GFCI completes its test.
The test is completed by the internal circuitry creating an imbalance.
The clicking noise you hear is the mechanical debounce  that helps the reset function work better (not all GFCI’s use this method but many do because who would trust a micro switch smaller than a pencil eraser that you can not feel it click?
As for your welder if it is plug in with 2 parallel blades you only need a 15 amp receptacle having 2 receptacles it is legal on a 20 amp circuit (the feed through is rated for 20 amp). So it would not have been a code violation.
A 15 amp and 20 amp GFCI have the same circuitry the only difference is the shape of the receptacle itself.  They both trip at ~5ma and have 20 amp feed through if supplying other receptacles.


The existing supports look to just be a piece of wood stood on end, and fastened into the rail running the length of the bed. The simplest solution would be to build a wider support, also out of wood, and also fastened into that rail. Grab a 2x4, cut it into pieces ~6" long, and stack them until you get the height you need. 6 lengths of 2x4 stacked in this manner should get you the 23cm you need (a 2x4 laying down is only 1.5" thick, and 23cm is 9"). Screw or glue them all together and you're good to go. Orient them perpendicular to the rail for additional stability.

A single 8' 2x4 typically seen at the home centers will cost about $2 or $3 (in the US, at least), and a box of screws a few more dollars, making this a very cheap solution.


If the switch has screw terminals as opposed to wire leads you DO have to pig-tail a piece of wire to the splice and then connect that tail to the switch. DO NOT place more than one wire under a binding screw terminal, unless of course it is designed for it. Even in that case it would only be designed for up to two wires.

Do you have a model number for this switch?

Regarding the neutral wires in the box, NO not every wire goes back to the breaker box. This is why you have several whites. One is a feed and the others are feed out to other items on the same circuit. If there is more than one circuit in the box then the neutrals from those different circuit should NOT be spliced. The only time this is not the case is if it is a multi-wire branch circuit (shared neutral).


What is the best way to strip woodchip wallpaper?

Unfortunately stripping woodchip can be a long, arduous process.

The way we've found best is to

work in small(ish) areas
score the area with a knife
run a scraper across the surface to knock out some of the chips

The last two expose some of the paper and give a route for the steam to enter.

Then steam this area and scrape again - but don't expect to get all the paper off first (or even second) time. Then steam the area again but don't scrape - leave the area to soak as you move onto the next area.

Then go back to the first area after 5-10 minutes and repeat.


how to replace leaking tub/shower faucet stem

As shown in your photograph, “MIXET” is the brand of faucet.
Apparently “Brasscraft” makes spare parts for MIXET brand faucets.  In the USA, Brasscraft is widely available at “big box” home-improvement stores.  Your locally owned, independent hardware store may carry compatible parts too.
There are tutorials available online for this brand.  Start here:

Although the Mixet company is no longer in business, shower valves made by the company are easy to repair by just replacing the cartridge.

https://www.thespruce.com/replace-a-mixet-shower-cartridge-2718990

And

“How to repair MIXET tub/shower valve”

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iQuq3MRlzlM


Side edging for hexagonal stone pavers? Concrete ok?

Expansion isn't really a concern. Finishing the edge is. You can't just screed the slab to the pavers and expect a good outcome. You'd have to edge the slab along each angle of the pavers' shape to eliminate the sharp corner. You can imagine how tedious that would be.

Also, you'll have staining on the surface of your pavers unless you protect them somehow or acid wash it later.

Like JPhi1618 said, halving pavers to create a straight line is the usual approach. A 7" angle grinder with a serrated diamond blade works well, or rent a wet saw.


Short answer: Yes

Install as much insulation as you can afford. It will pay for itself in the long run. If you have space in the attic, then another layer would certainly help.

Make sure you don't restrict the ventilation of the attic by blocking eave vents.

Good luck!


The loose end is for your index finger to press the screwdriver against the screw and thus provide the second fixed point for its axis while the thumb and the middle finger are turning the screwdriver. It allows the most precise operation of all manual screwdrivers.

I would also speculate that this might not be the right tool for the work. This kind of screwdrivers are for precision work where you need to be very exact in where you touch your device and exert a very limited force. You need a regular screwdriver, which would allow to exert higher torque and at the same time press stronger along the screwdriver/screw axis to prevent them from losing each other.

For the screw you want to turn, you need one of the bits in your second photo, in the holder with the word "Poholy" on it, number 5...7 from the left in the photo (4...6 if you turn it upside up). Take the one that fits the screw best. You will also need a handle, which is missing in your photo. It looks something like the blue one in this photo.

You can use the electrical screwdriver from Worx that you showed in another post, but choose the correct bit and as low torque as possible to start with. With the electrical screwdriver, it's very easy to damage the screw cap.


Why is my wall-ceiling corner damp when it rains?

Do you have drip edge under the shingles, and flashing under that on your facia boards? This need to be in place before gutter is installed, otherwise water can be leaking from the gutter side closest to the house.


Will old cast iron Baseray baseboards work with a steam boiler?

That baseboard radiation will work great on a 2 pipe steam system or a forced hot water heating system but is not recommended for use on a 1 pipe steam system.


No, you may not use 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit. You need to use 12 gauge wire.


How do I protect a coax cable junction from outside weather?

Here are some boxes I found. Not only would it keep the connections out of the weather, but a box would dress it up a little and look more professional:


What are the pros and cons of adding a vapor barrier behind shower backer board?

You should NOT place a vapor barrier BEHIND the backer board.

Where, pray tell, would any such collected vapor/water go?

Answer:There's nowhere proper for such moisture to egress.

The current best practice is to place waterproofing OVER the backetboard and just UNDER the tile.  Thin sheet membranes like Kerdi or NobleFlex are examples
. Paint on membranes can also be used, such as RedGuard or AquaDefense.

This a is a recent job I completed illustrating Kerdi over Hardibacker.


Lots of possible causes, but you may need an HVAC repair man to diagnose it.  The first thing they'll check is the refrigerant levels (Freon, Puron, or whatever your system is using).  If it's low, there may be a leak, possibly caused during the blower motor replacement.

Simple things you can verify yourself are that the outside unit is unobstructed to allow air to pass in the sides and out the top.  If it isn't even turning on, either your refrigerant levels are so low the compressor is staying off for safety, or perhaps it's as simple as a wire not being plugged back in from the thermostat to the inside unit.  The owners manual should include a wiring diagram.

Another simple thing to check are any filters either on the return vents or at the blower itself.  And finally, open up any access panel you can on the condenser coils and make sure they are clean and free of ice.


How to mitigate an unmounted bathtub faucet from back wall access

Remove the incorrect fitting, replace with a drop-ear elbow, and mount a hunk of wood to mount the drop ear elbow to. This will be awkward and annoying to do (through that hole) but should be possible. You may (or will) need a longer hunk of pipe for the tub spout mount.
Other ways might be possible, but will be kludges, (like the "giant glob of construction adhesive" approach. Easier to do, but a definite kludge.)
Whoever did this install was an idiot. A tub only install needs one drop ear elbow, a tub/shower install needs two, they are made, and this is what they are made for.


Can you install a ceiling fan with a hickey and crossbar?

The primary consideration is not the static load, but the dynamic load from a heavy, rotating load.

That's why there are electrical boxes specifically designed and designated by code for ceiling fan loads.

See http://homerepair.about.com/od/electricalrepair/ss/elec_box_ltg.htm#step5


I first want to comment that you are extremely fortunate to have discovered this before issue before it became a full scale fire in your dwelling.

Having no nuts on the studs to secure the lugs of the supply cord is a serious safety situation. Someone that installed the cord assembly screwed up royally.

If you received the LG oven with the cord already installed from the store or warehouse I would be recommending that you take it back and demand that they give you a replacement that is wired properly.

There is a possibility that the oven is OK and that acquiring a new cord assembly and installing it properly will be the cure to the problem. BUT... be aware that the red wire melted because the connection was high resistance and created a tremendous heat to melt the insulation like that. You will need to very carefully check the red wire from the oven internals that also connects to that stud. If it is in any way melted or discolored then you should seriously look at getting a replacement.


How does Schlage SecureKey Re-keying mechanism work?

Good info here: http://www.lockwiki.com/index.php/Schlage_SecureKey


What style notched trowel should I use to lay 6"x24" ceramic on a shower wall?

Most tile manufacturers will have a specific trowel recommendation for their tile. It may not be either of the ones you own. In that case you'll buy another one. In any case, it is normally clearly stated in the installation instructions for the tile. The size and shape of the notches affects both the total amount of thinset (so a 3/8 X 3/8 X 3/8 notched trowel lays down an amount of thinset that would be 3/16" thick if flattened completely) and the way that the ridged thinset interacts with the tile as it is placed (V's have a bit more give than square-notches as the tile is embedded.)

Read and follow the tile manufacturer's installation instructions.


Both shower heads have less flow after water heater replacement

First, I'd suggest removing both showerheads (and all your faucet aerators, as well, perhaps) to check for debris - major work like changing a water heater often dislodges  crud in the lines that ends up clogging the point of exit, so cleaning and backflushing is needed to restore flow. While you have them off, run the shower full bore from the bare pipes for a while to remove any additional crud you can. Don't know if I think a good pro plumber should have done this, or if the average customer would complain about the extra half and hour at plumbers rates for doing it...

As for the size of the lines, you should be able to read the size right off the side of the CPVC - possibly the copper as well, though that's a bit closer to intuitive to measure, and it's probably too old to be easily readable even if it is printed on.


Keep it short
Cable from the panel to the nearest outlet. String along to each outlet via the shortest path. In some cases splitting (a "tree" configuration, though technically a string is a very boring tree) will actually be shorter, but most of the time a simple string works best unless you are trying to wire a whole house with one circuit.
How to Connect
There are two ways to connect the wires for each outlet:

For each outlet (except the last one), use wire nuts to connect each incoming wire (from panel or previous outlet), outgoing wire (to next outlet) and a pigtail (to this outlet). If you are using NM cable (a.k.a. Romex), you can strip the jacket off a section of it to get plain wire for pigtails.

Use one pair of screws (e.g., the top screws) for "in" and one pair for "out". Typically duplex outlets will have removable tabs on each side (one for hot, one for neutral) to allow the top & bottom outlets to be powered from different circuits. That same feature allows you to use both sets of screws to get "in" & "out" without pigtails.

The advantages of pigtails include:

Easier to work on the wires if they don't have much slack (and even in my limited non-professional-electrician experience, I can definitely vouch for that one myself)

If an outlet goes bad and you don't have a replacement on hand, with pigtails the removal - and later replacement is a little simpler than without as you just cap the pigtails instead of having to join (and later move again) the "in" & "out" cables to keep the other receptacles working

If you have any GFCI or other "special" items in the mix, pigtails keep it really simple.

Use the screws on the outlets, not the back-stab (push-in) connections. There are some types of push-in connections that are "good", but if you aren't sure, just play it safe and use the screws.
If you need GFCI protection for some or all outlets, then either use a GFCI breaker or come back here with more details and we can help. In general the simplest thing to do is to install a GFCI and/or AFCI breaker to provide the protection to all receptacles. However, if that is not an option, you would typically install GFCI at the first location that needs it and, for that receptacle only, use the LINE terminals for the "in" cable and the LOAD terminals for the "out" cable instead of pigtailing everything to LINE. But there are variations depending on your particular situation, so if you are not sure then please ask.


No, it's not. You'll weaken the rafters.   Edge cuts are particularly harmful to structural members.

If anything, you would rip a whole bunch of shims, (say, 7/8" thick), and lay them across the tops of the rafters, omitting them where the wires are.   Or sister the rafters.

However, this would create a second code violation: wires too close to the floor surface, and vulnerable to being nicked by nails.   This can be remedied by putting steel "nail plates" above the wires to guard them from nails up to 1-3/4" long.  However it wouldn't be enough to protect only above the rafters, because the cables are being drawn taut between rafters, so they are vulnerable there too, especially near the rafters.

Stapling the wires to the rafters and using sufficiently thick shims would take care of that.

You're also not allowed to cut the -- well, hold on. You're not allowed to cut the cables and then make a desperate, taut splice with what little length remains.   You are allowed to cut, reroute and splice additional length in the middle.  However all splicing must be inside junction boxes*, and the boxes must remain accessible forever.   I recommend large-ish steel boxes, because if you do have a bad connection that arcs, the steel won't melt and burn through, and will distribute the heat around the entire box, reducing the chance of any point turning hot enough to ignite building materials.

Steel junction boxes, plus non-flexible metal conduit (EMT, RMC or IMC) are a great way to make the "shim" strategy actually work.  Now the shim needs to be no thicker than the pipes, i.e. 7/8".  These tough pipes are their own nail plates, taking that problem off the table. Inside the conduit, you'd use THHN/THWN-2 individual wires; up to 4 circuits per conduit pipe. The pipes are also their own grounds, meaning no need to push ground wires through the conduits.  Most circuits only need 2 wires, and the 1/2" trade size of these pipes can support 9 or 10.

There's no profit in using 3/4" pipe.  You could use 1" pipe and put up to 10 circuits in a pipe, but the wires in the pipe would need a wire size "bump", 14 AWG cable -> 12 AWG THHN, 12 AWG cable -> 10 AWG THHN. In those cases I prefer to lay two or three 1/2" pipes, especially if bending is involved.

* If you ask how to splice without a junction box, the Home Depot clerk will cheerfully press one of these into your hands.  No mention will be made of the fact that these are illegal, except in very particular applications.  These are the same dim-bulbs who will cheerfully recommend a NEMA 10 dryer outlet "since it's universal".


What should I do with wires that are too large for back-stab terminals on a receptacles?

As long as you are going through the trouble to replace your receptacles, I have some recommendations:

Choose high quality models, especially those labeled "commercial" or "industrial" grade. They have tougher plastics that won't break as easily. I've often seen cheap receps break and lose bits of plastic, and they are left in service for decades.
Choose receps that have a contoured face. This makes it easier to get the plug in the right spot in the dark or behind furniture. Otherwise, it's tempting to use your finger to guide the plug in to the hole, which makes it easy to get shocked.
Get receps that have screwdown clamps. These are easier to install than wrapping the wire around a screw; more secure than stabbing in the back of those crappy receps; easier to remove than both.
Install tamper-resistant receptacles. These are code-required in many places, and they're a good idea.

As others have noted, it sounds like you're trying to insert 12ga wire in to a hole that only fits 14ga (for a 15A circuit). Don't use that feature; see #3.


Many modern dimmable LED bulbs will dim with older dimmer switches, there are some issues. One is that the bulbs may not dim as low as they can, the other is that the bulbs may not come on at the lowest setting. You may need to bring them up and then back down. I've typically had issues with the first while you seem to be having problems with the latter.

New CFL/LED compatible dimmers solve a lot of problems. In addition to being engineered to be more compatible with dimmable LEDs and CFLs they also have a low trim adjustment. Either a sliding switch, knob or some other mechanism to adjust the lowest dimming setting where the bulbs perform satisfactorily.

There are still compatibility issues so it's best to see what dimmers are compatible with the bulbs you have. The manufacturers of dimmers (and usually the bulb manufacturers too) will have a compatibility list so you can get the right dimmer for your bulbs or vice versa.

I got tired of not being able to dim my LED bulbs as low as I wanted so I replaced my dimmers and have been very happy. Most of my bulbs have been Philips and my dimmers Lutron C-L.


Can I use one 3-phase circuit to power 2 separate machines?

I can't comment on whether your code has anything specific to say about this but looking at this from a generic safety/functionality point of view.

The currents in each shared live conductor will partially but not completely cancel.

Assuming the loads are resistive, the currents to the loads are 60 degress out of phase, so assuming the loads are equal the total current in each shared live conductor is.

23A * 2 * cos(30°) = 39.8A

If the loads are non-resistive then the calculation gets more complex but 40A is probably still in the right ballpark. AIUI with the way American breakers are rated, if these loads count as "continuous" then that would require a 50A breaker.

The main question IMO is are the appliances suitable for connection to a 50A breaker? or do they require a 30A breaker to operate safely? In the latter case it would seem you need a subpanel.


New timer switch has a blue wire instead of red wire

With the exception of white == neutral and green == ground, wire colors mean basically nothing in the US/Canada electrical system. Typically black = hot and red = switched hot, but it can vary. Blue? Could be hot or switched hot.
Generally speaking, the best way to do things if it is not a clear, exact replacement, is to figure out what you have. Sometimes you can figure that out from the old connections, and if you can't understand it from the old connections, if you can upload a picture before disconnecting wires, we can often figure it out for you.
In addition, with wires disconnected but safely capped, it is generally safe to turn the breaker back on and use a non-contact tester to determine which wire(s) is hot. Note that sometimes white will be hot rather than neutral in a switch loop, so that is not necessarily an error but actually a clue - because then black is switched hot.
The instructions on the new device should detail which wires are which - e.g., in this case what red and blue mean. In a simple switch (not 3-way, 4-way, smart, dimmer, motion detector, etc.) there is no difference between "hot" and "switched hot". But with anything more complex, you need to know what wires are hot, switched hot, traveler, etc. If the manual doesn't make it clear, that is not a good sign.


Can I use this hose with my air compressor?

If the metal button that you refer to is this one:

Best guess is that you press this when engaging the end of the gun onto and when disengaging the gun from the valve stem. When the gun is fully pressed onto the valve stem letting go of this button helps clamp the tip of the gun onto the threaded end of the valve stem.

Again this is an educated guess because I've not seen your gun first hand. You could probably look at the tip of the gun assembly and toggle the metal tab back and forth and see right away what it does.

Edit

In looking more closely at your picture it appears that the tip of the gun can have various ends slid into it and this lever is designed to hold the tip in place. Pressing the tab (button) releases the catch and allows removal of the tip.

When I refer to the tips I mean one of these from the kit:


Is this a Federal Pacific electrical panel, and should I replace it?

It's not a Federal Panel. It is a Trumble Panel built in the 1940's bought buy GE. Some say that's the reason GE breakers start with a T (TED THQ etc.)

Should you replace it? Yes, its a 1940's panel, but beware there could be a whole lot of things wrong with your service than just that panel. For example do you have a main fuse or breaker ahead of your panel? How is it grounded? ETC.


If I am assuming correctly, below is how to wire it.

Connect all green and bare wires together -- those are the ground wires.

Don't disconnect the black & tan wires in the box. Of those two, the black is the always-hot from the circuit breaker panel, and the white goes to the wall switch.

Connect the single black wire to the black and blue wires on the fan. The black wire in the box is the hot from the switch. The black and blue wires on the fan go to the light kit and fan motor (not sure which is which, but you can safely connect all three together). If you don't have a light kit, connect it anyway so if you add a light kit later you won't have to remove the entire fan to rewire.

Connect the single tan wire in the box to the white wire on the fan. This is the neutral wire.

Since it appears that you have only one wall switch, it will operate both the fan and the light. The way your wires run, you won't be able to have separate wall switches for the fan and light. Instead, you'll need to use the controls on the fan itself for that.

One other thing: if you removed a light fixture, you may need to replace the ceiling box with a heavier duty model specifically rated for fan installation. Most standard light fixture boxes aren't strong enough to hold a fan.

The above is advice based on assumptions. Use at your own risk. Always disconnect the power, and TEST that the power in the box is off using a known good voltmeter or non-contact voltage tester. When I say "known good" I mean that you've tested the tester on a live circuit to be confident that your tester is working properly. If you are in doubt about your abilities, contact an electrician. You can be killed or burn down your house if you make a mistake.


With current code (17) if you have a 4 wire feed a local ground rod was not required in the 2017 code not sure about 2020 as it will not be adopted until October on my state but I don’t know why they would change that.


How should I air-seal this gap by the floor along an exterior wall?

Expanding foam would do a fantastic job especially if you are already removing the baseboard anyway it should be no problem to fit the straw back there.


Should I temporarily cover my exposed soffit during a rain storm?

Mold will not be a problem unless the area gets and stays wet.

Of more concern would be birds, bugs and squirrels.  Landscape fabric could be stapled quickly and cheaply, if it will be several days.


My town house was flooded from my ceiling opening up leaking water, is it the poor caulking we used more than 5 years back?

If there's a bathroom above the location, then you have a plumbing leak you should fix post-haste.

If you do not have a bathroom there, you might have a leaky pipe but it's vastly more likely that it's time to fix your roof.

You must stop water ingress into the home.  It will destroy your home in short order.


Would providing shade for my air conditioner's condensor improve its efficiency?

It helps for sure.  There have been a ton of studies done on this and I have read at least 10-11.  At one point in time I was going into a partnership for a "greening" business.

Your variance is somewhere between 1-15%.  There are a ton of variables.

Here is an OK study I read a few weeks ago from FSEC.  I personally don't like this study because they are first in a climate that doesn't cool well at night and then they used young trees...

Variables

The shading of the air coming into condensor is super helpful.  But if you have a 9 foot tree over the condenser in an open field then there is a very small volume of shaded air.  Once your condenser sucks in the shaded air then it gets the hot stuff and returns diminish.  So the first variable is shade volume.  With huge oak trees being optimal and anything less than that losing value all the way down to a bush.
Air temperature in shaded area.  This depends on what is under your tree (grass, rocks, dirt, water...), it depends on how many hours a day you get the shade, air flow, how close you are to house...
Air flow is huge.  The more wind you can push to the unit the more efficient it will be.  One of the things that people do that inhibits this is bushes right next to unit.  Obviously decreases air flow.

So the bigger tree you put there the better but you also want to configure the trees so that the unit gets good air flow.  The price of a tree and your work will be returned for sure and could potentially have a major change on your bills - I could see $300-600 a year in warmer climates.  Also I think a small fence would have no to little impact (restricting air flow).


How can I attach pony wall to surface of platform and will it be strong enough against lateral forces?

I'd build the wall in such a way that the entire thing acts as a post:

Use 3-1/2" or 4" construction screws instead of nails at all joints
Use construction adhesive at all joints
Use screws and adhesive to mount the bottom plate to the floor framing

This configuration will be as stiff and strong as it would be if you used occasional steel bracing. Any right angles or other wall connections will enhance strength.


I’d be careful screwing anything down through the threshold.

The “lip” (ridge as you call it) is for keeping wind blown rain from backing up to your interior swinging door.

An exterior swinging screen door would be difficult at best. You’ll need a screen door frame that is “L” shaped that will lap over the existing door frame. I doubt if you’ll find one that is the exact correct depth, so you’ll need to install furring stripes on the head and jambs. Sealing the head is usually with flashing, but maybe you could use glazing tape.

Likewise for sliding screen doors you’ll have similar installation problems.

My daughter just installed magnetic screens on her deck door and she (and her dogs) love it.


Looking at the page you linked to, it looks like it will do the job for you.  It has a 1/4" shank which might limit you down the road if you decide you like building things and start doing it all the time.

A rabbet bit goes against the work piece like this:

The dimension B is determined by the size of the bit; you can make it smaller by putting something between the workpiece and the bit; you could use another bit to cut out more, but that makes the whole job a lot trickier because you won't have the bearing on the bit to help guide the router.  You have control of dimension A; you make the cut deeper by running the bit over the workpiece multiple times, cutting a little bit more each time.

Other items you'll need are safety glasses, a vacuum cleaner to collect sawdust (it's a carcinogen so  don't want to be breathing it) and clamps to hold the work piece.

You need clamps because operating a router is a two-handed job: plunging the router with both hands means that you have even pressure on each side of the bit thus more control if it kicks and it keeps your hands out of the way of the fast-moving machinery.

If you don't already have something sturdy to clamp the workpiece to, you should probably think about getting a workbench.  A dedicated routing table is another option, but probably more than you need right now (I'm just now getting to the point where I'm thinking I'd like to have one so can't advise you there).


Is there a way to sound proof my basement while I've got part of the ceiling open?

See my answer here about methodologies and techniques for soundproofing: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/11238/3450


Practical limits of how many LEDs can you use to replace halogen 12V?

While most 110-240V LEDs are nasty complex loads due to their AC/DC power supply, many 12V LEDs are probably no more complex than the LED and a resistor, or possibly the LED, another diode or 4, and a resistor for 12VAC service. That sort should run fine of a 12V supply at full ratings and with no need for a regular halogen bulb in circuit.

If your 12V LEDs are straightforward "bulb replacements" or devoid of a power supply circuit between the 12V supply and the LED, they will probably behave as above - after all, when the halogens you put in circuit burn out, that's where you'll be anyway. If they have a more complex power supply, the manufacturer would be the best bet to determine the correct deployment on your power supply. In all likelihood, they will be fine.


Unknown freezer parts do not correspond to assembly diagram

jsotola was correct - after taking the entire freezer assembly apart, I found that the blue object was indeed just a bizarre clamp. The wires connected to it attached to the fan. I have no idea why it was clamped to the copper pipe.
After leaving a hairdryer running for ~30 minutes in the freezer, I actually found the two defrost thermostats mentioned in the specifications. They were located behind the evap coils and had been completely encased in ice. This isn't really relevant, but I think that is probably the most inconvenient place to mount the defrost thermostats.
Only divination can answer why an additional temperature sensor was added.


Can I hang a 60 lbs TV on 1 inch drywall?

Never mount a TV to drywall. Find some studs and mount it there.


Traditional Recessed Lights or the New "clip" LED Panels?

full disclosure here.  you may be looking at a product that is similar looking but fundamentally different than what i think it is.

what you are looking at is a bulkhead light for furniture only.  meant to be used inside a cabinet box or some other structure that is classed in the NBC as "furniture".  even though many places sell these, you cannot legally use these for potlighting where they are submerged into a drywall ceiling, even I have seen these installed so many times in the wrong way.  its disturbing.  you cannot just cut a hole and clip these into the hole.  I have worked on multiple different residences where these have caught fire outright or been smouldering when they were turned off finally.

1)  there is no way to connect to the unit in a way that makes the connection compliant with the OEC.  the connections have to be in a metal enclosure, and these don't come with it. I have seen every type of disturbingly mis-thought arrangement with these things.

2)  the fire code requires that any penetration into the rooms fire barrier (the drywall ceiling) must be in an appropriately fire rated enclosure.  since these have a power supply board either onboard or in a little separate module (with a molex connector usually), that part also has to be installed in an approved enclosure.

3)  even if you want to do all your connections in an approved rework pot or some other device, they are a weird diameter that doesn't match any pots that I have ever seen.

4)  ESA will not pass these in any installation I have ever seen, and I have had inspectors tell me that ESA is still working on getting the legislative clout to have them banned outright, so that they can't be sold at all in Canada without the aforementioned warnings.  just remember that you can run electrical cable through a drain line, but its not legal.  caveat emptor.

do yourself a favour and get led refit assemblies from cree or greenlite.  I buy them by the skid from greenlite for about $15 ea.  they are not that much more if you buy just a case of them.  they have a 5 year warranty, honoured by a Canadian company, and they are bombproof, commercial grade lights.

http://www.greenlite.ca/en/lights/1895-led-10w-dimmable-retrofit-kit-4-.html


Removing burnt plastic residue from gas cooktop cap

If you have a self-cleaning oven, put the caps on one of the racks the next time you run it. Self-cleaning gets much hotter than a regular oven or cooktop and is much safer than using a torch. I run everything (grates, caps) through in the self-cleaning oven once a year for Passover cleaning.


How do we prevent air in the water lines from our well?

Assuming you have a shallow well pump.  I would start looking from the pump to your well. This is where you will get air sucked into the water without having a water leak.  Tighten all the hose clamps, you may need to add thread sealant to primer plug or any threaded fittings.


Does the inter-floor insulation in my 1911 home contain asbestos?

Insulation between floors is often for sound isolation, but hard to know for sure with the original owners/builders presumably long since dead.

Asbestos is both easy and annoyingly expensive to know for sure - collect a sample and send it to a lab, if you can't just leave it alone, undisturbed. You can't tell just by looking at it, unless you have the right sort of fancy microscope and training in its use. It could also be in your plaster, sadly. Might not be in either place, but without testing, you can't know.


I thought there should be a time factor in this calculation

Both watt and horsepower measure power. They are the same thing, just with different units, hence the direct conversion.

You seem to be confusing power with energy. Power is an instantaneous value, while energy (e.g. joules or watt-hours) is what you use if you consume power for some time.

Note that the HP rating of a motor doesn't take into account efficiency, and so tells you only how much power the motor will produce, not how much it will consume.

  how do I factor in the time to get the watts the motor consumes?

You don't. Time has nothing to do with how many watts the motor consumes. Watts is a measure of how much power the motor is consuming (or producing) at any given instant in time.

If you want to know how much energy the motor consumes, first you have to figure out how much power the motor is consuming, rather than how much it is producing (and a 0.5 HP motor doesn't produce 0.5 HP at all times...that's just its nominal maximum output), and then multiply that by the number of hours it consumes that much.

Having done that, you get a figure with the units as watt-hours, which is the amount of energy you've consumed. This will translate to e.g. a cost on your electric bill, or the capacity of a battery, etc.


I'm not sure what kind of machine you're thinking of, but I usually cut metal pipe with a pipe cutter like this:
Images courtesy of Lowes.com. No endorsement intended or implied.
In your case, the pipe cutter will be difficult because you need clearance all the way around the pipe, and it appears that your wall is concrete and/or brick and it would be a lot of work to make clearance to swing the pipe cutter all the way around the pipe.
In your situation, I'd suggest using a simple hacksaw where the blade extends beyond the frame, something like this:

It will take a while, but you'll get there in the end.
If you're looking for a power tool way to do it, you could use an oscillating cutoff tool or an angle grinder with a cutting disk. These are both going to get through the pipe much more quickly than you will by hand, but you may not be up for buying a (potentially) expensive power tool right now. Here in the States, you can buy cheap ones pretty inexpensively, use it for your intended purpose and be excited if it lasts for the next job, or you can buy a more expensive one that'll last most of a lifetime. They're often available for rent at tool rental stores.
For cutting plastic pipe it depends on the type of pipe. For hard/rigid PVC/CPVC/ABS type pipe, you use one of the above cutters†. For soft/flexible PEX type pipe, there are simple "scissors" style cutters, and fancier ratcheting style cutters (that simply increase the force with less hand effort) similar to this:

For capping plastic pipe, it again depends on the type of plastic pipe you're using, but your local hardware store (or their website) will have a variety of plugs you can choose from. Pick up one in the appropriate size along with the proper method of attaching it (glue, crimps, etc.)

† Yes, I'm aware that smaller diameters of CPVC piping is flexible, but it's not as flexible as PEX. It can probably be cut with the ratcheting scissor style cutters, but I've not tried it, so I can't recommend it.


Mechanically removing ice is a great way to break your fridge. Stick to heat and time.

Your fan appears to not be attached. That would be  problem.

Other than that, you either have a problem with the automatic defrost, or it was overwhelmed, perhaps by the lack of a happy fan causing more icing than it expected, or by excessive humidity. I have had a fridge that would need an occasional manual defrost in the summer, but which was fine the rest of the year. Eventually it got worse and was replaced.

Being careful to seal and cover things in the fridge to reduce evaporation, and minimizing the time that the door is open will both help, somewhat, by reducing the available water in the air to freeze.

If you have bent fins while mechanically removing ice, carefully straighten them - bent fins block airflow.


GFCI circuit for hot tub tripping after move

The correct answer is to call an electrician.....and get rid of that second GFCI.  If you are on a forum wondering why you are getting shocked when touching the water, you really shouldn't be doing that electrical youself. Call a professional and have it done right.


How to wear eye protection if you already wear glasses?

I would suggest getting prescription safety glasses. If the cost is unreasonable wear your regular glasses with a face-shield. Face-shields offer maximum protection they are however prone to fogging up in humid areas.


What is the best way to remove a non load bearing wall?

Removing plaster can make tremendous amounts of dust, isolate the area with plastic to cut down on the spread, and get yourself a dust mask and a helmet is a good idea. Cover any cold air returns and heating vents. Once you're prepared, taking plaster walls down is pretty easy, whack it with a hammer to bust a hole, then you can usually get a shovel or pitchfork behind the plaster and it will pull away from the lathe easily as you break the keyway that holds it in. Clean up all the plaster and dust, then go after the lathe with a crowbar and/or hammers; then start cutting the vertical studs with a sawzall.

Double, triple, quadruple check that it's not load-bearing, if the blade is binding when cutting through a stud, there's downward pressure, and even if it's not structurally load bearing, things could've shifted over time above, and taking it out might make things drop or sag.


How to eliminate odor from the heavy cooking?

In some cultures, there is a room called a spice kitchen that is an important feature of the house.

  In order for the Spice Kitchen to serve its intended purpose, it needs a high-volume exhaust hood over the oven and a door. The foods that are going to be prepared in the Spice Kitchen should be stored there as well, so there should be cabinetry, counter space and a sink.

Some foods create an enormous amount of smell and that smell can be carried around by steam or aerosolized oils or smoke.

So, the best solution is to get rid of the smell before it circulates and settles on other areas of the house.  You need a large hood to catch the steam and smoke from cooking and duct it out of the area.  How you do this is probably beyond the scope of your question, but removing the by-products of cooking is the solution.


Help with Garbage Disposal install and high drain pipe

The drain into the wall needs to be below that of the disposal and sink, there's no way to beat gravity with this. Your options are to:

Raise the disposal output (with a different disposal)
Raise the sink (with a different, shallower sink, or at least a shallow drain for the disposal)
Lower the drain at the wall


How do I make a 110V fan turn on when the thermostat turns the AC on?

All you'd need is a relay.  You'll need one with a coil rated for 24VAC (or whatever the thermostat voltage is), and a contact rated to handle the current draw of the fan at line voltage.

Connect the ungrounded (hot) feed to the Common terminal of the relay.
Connect the ungrounded (hot) wire for the fan, to the Normally Open (NO) terminal of the relay.
Connect the grounded (neutral) from the feed, to the grounded (neutral) of the fan.
Connect all grounding conductors.
Connect a wire from the G terminal on the thermostat, to one of the coil contacts on the relay.
Connect a wire from the C (common) terminal of the A/C transformer.

When the thermostat calls for COOL, it should turn on the fan as well.

Didn't add it to the diagram, but it's probably a good idea to have a fuse on the R wire.


Proper header size for a 10 foot span, non load-bearing wall

You don't need a header, except to provide a "space" for your new overhead door to roll-up into. A header is to hold something "up". This is non-bearing, so you could use studs to create the space down from the roof (or ceiling) for the roll-up door to roll-up into. The load that you need to resist is the horizontal force on the "wall" above the new door. I'd use a double 2x6 laid flat at the head of the opening. (The door is not supported by the "header" either.)

I'd use 2-2x4 "jack studs"...just for stiffness on each side of the opening. (Technically, I guess they're not "jack studs".)


It is ok to use all 2x12's of course, and ok to use 2x10 joists on a 2x12 band.

Other ideas ...

1) use lower grade 2x12s in place of the 2x10s

2) use all 2x10s placing them 16" on center for the short spans and 12"oc for the long spans

3) look into cantilevering the joists on the long span, which may allow using 2x10s @ 16"oc (instead of uncantilevered 2x12 @ 16"oc).


Can you have 2 junction boxes on one 12/3 cable run

That is fine.  However the junction box must be accessible forever, without disassembling any part of the house, and you must be able to reach the junction box's cover without any tools.

You don't need to put anything at all (like a receptacle) in the junction box, but you are allowed to if the circuit is allowed to support it.

Remember -- if you are moving things around, there are certain legal minimum outlets and switches that MUST exist. For instance every point along a wall must be within 6' of a receptacle (along the wall surface, that is).  Every 2' along kitchen counters. Etc.  There must be a switch at certain (expected) locations. Etc.


Is it possible to reuse shingles/replace only part of the shingles?

I would say yes for sure on this.  You are going to have to pry them off more carefully.  Note that the nails/staples should only be under the other shingles.  If put on wrong it could make it difficult to reuse.

The only reason I am suggesting reusing is that you met two criteria:
1. You have a small area and you don't want a color mismatch.
2. That area is outside of a living space.

I would personally reuse them.  I would try to keep the row(s) between the house and porch attached if you can.  This will be your we spot and you will need to retrofit that first row under.  You would want this on the porch in case of future potential leaks.


GFCI Outlet in kitchen cutting off power of all other outlets

How to ignore the problem

A GFCI device of any kind, even the kind that looks like a receptacle, is able to provide GFCI protection to other loads beside itself.  It has a couple of output terminals called the LOAD terminals, and anything attached to LOAD will get GFCI protection also.  This is an efficent way to use GFCI devices, but only for people who actually treat electrical maintenance seriously and have a healthy fear of it.

For others, you get this situation.

Others are discussing how you can use multiple GFCI+receptacle devices to separate one receptacle's problems from another's, by tactical use of the LOAD terminals (or rather, tactical disuse).  It's straightforward enough; just leave the warning tape on the LOAD terminals and pigtail everything onto LINE.  Once you do that, only things plugged into a GFCI+receptacele can trip that GFCI.

How to fix the  problem

A GFCI has one job.  What is it? Detecting ground faults: Cases where electrical insulation is not tight anymore, and the appliance is leaking current in a way that could shock you or start a fire.  So if something trips a GFCI, what is most likely to be?  Right.

One of your appliances has a ground fault.

This news tends to be disliked.  We've had flame wars with askers who were in full military denial.  If you're not interested in that...

It is a process of narrowing down.   An appliance may have a ground fault, but it can't trip a GFCI if it's not plugged in.  So unplug all the appliances that have been plugged into those GFCI protected sockets for the last 10 years.  See if the problem goes away.  Once a day, plug one back in and see if the problem returns.

Here's a useful tidbit: a 2-prong appliance can't trip GFCIs unless it can reach ground somehow - sitting in a puddle of water that often leaks from the sink, a cable modem through the TV cable shield, or a plumbed coffeemaker through the water in the supply pipe.

For a big machine like a refrigerator, run an extension cord to a receptacle on a different circuit, solely for temporarily testing.  Ideally that other circuit is also GFCI, so you get the double confirmation of a) the kitchen stops tripping and b) the other circuit does trip.

Once you find the culprit appliance, you can take a swing at giving it a good clean-up... But realistically, into the trash it goes.  This is an age of throwaway appliances.

Don't be surprised if it's your refrigerator.  That's common, and here's the thing:  Refrigerators don't belong on GFCI.  Refrigerators are the exact opposite of the use-case for GFCI: a grounded machine with all the electrical bits shielded by all metal, in the back bottom where you could not possibly access them, and you aren't going to drop it in your sink.  I have seen cases where the fridge was the last outlet on the kitchen countertop chain, and as a result every single kitchen countertop outlet needed its own GFCI+receptacle, with LOAD terminals not used at all.  If a fridge has a 10ma ground fault, I really do not care.  It's not going to threaten anyone but the ground wire.


How To Wire Humidistat and Humidifier - Honeywell

It goes "HUM -> U, other U->solenoid terminal, other solenoid terminal->C"
In order to get your humidifier to work, you need to create a closed circuit through the humidifier solenoid to bring 24VAC to it.  Since we know the HUM 24V terminal is a 24VAC source from the wiring diagram you posted with the C terminal as its corresponding return, we can pull 24VAC from that and feed it to one U terminal on the humidistat.  The other U terminal, then, connects down to one of the humidifier's solenoid connections; finally, the remaining terminal on the humidifier solenoid gets connected to the C wire on your furnace.  The result is a closed circuit that only is energized when your furnace permits humidification and the humidistat calls for water, just as you wish it to work.


Should I use a wood stain before varnishing my indoor floor?

Stain is just color. While it does provide some degree of sealing, whether you use it or not under varnish is entirely discretionary.

The primary difference between the two options is that proper stain tends to penetrate the grain more, creating more contrast. Colored varnishes overlay a semi-opaque color that tends to mute grain contrast, leaving a more uniform appearance. Again, this is a matter of prerogative.


Efficient whole house heating on a budget. Electric baseboard?

Electric baseboard is "100% efficient" - all the heat gets used in the house. It's also horribly expensive to operate, and not remotely the most efficient "all-electric" heat, which is a cold-climate heat pump(CCHP) that can be 250-300% efficient. Also known as mini-splits.

The only "advantage" electric baseboard has is that it's cheap to install. It can also cause fires if furniture or drapes are pushed too close to it.

Many utilities have rebate programs for installing a CCHP. Some states do as well.

Depending on utility rates, natural gas or CCHP are the most cost effective form of heat to operate in most places that have natural gas available. As far as I can discern from your question the area of concern for that would appear to be the domain of the gas utility, so perhaps they would be willing to investigate if you are considering connecting to their service.


Remove the wall which am not sure is load bearing wall

I have removed a stair wall but not sure if it was a load bearing wall or not.

This may sound like a trivial answer, but - you should just check.

With the authorities

In many (most?) states in the world, house construction plans must be submitted to a local/regional planning body where they are kept in an archive. go get a copy. The plans should somehow (fingers crossed) indicate which walls bear load.

It's probably a good idea to have a copy of those plans anyway.

Consult a professional

Find a home constructor - or a company which does home construction - and ask them to determine that for you. They will probably take a bit of money, but not that much.

Show them the plans if you have them!

Newbie sentiment: Better to feel sorry for wasting a bit of money than to feel sorry for cracks or a collapse of part of your house.


You're meant to wire nut both fixture grounds together, and connected them to the 3rd wire ground on the circuit.


Bench Vise Restoration: Removing Spindle

To get the last jaw screw out try this: choose a short quarter-inch hex bit to match the jaw screw. Place the hex bit into a quarter-inch box-end wrench and close the vise jaws so the bit is trapped and pressing against the stuck screw. Use the box wrench as a handle to turn the bit and loosen the screw. Adjust the vise tension to prevent the bit from slipping.
The pair of holes look small enough to be roll pins or steel pins. They would have the hardness to clinch the groove in the spindle. Poke with a sharp tool, then use a pin punch to tap it out. The holes on the underside look smaller; there may be a step to prevent the pin from falling through. In that case it's probably a solid pin. Punch it through from the smaller hole.


Should I wait for my inverter alarm to know when my battery is discharging beyond safe level or should I shut down the loads sooner?

Get a hydrometer and learn how to use it for detailed analysis.

For less detailed analysis, if a lead acid bank is below 2.1 volts per cell (in use) the smart money is on cutting it off if you care about long life. So if your 12 or 24V bank actually reads 12 or 24 volts, you are probably dipping below a healthy discharge level.

Better quality battery operated equipment will disconnect itself, rather than depend on you checking the voltage and taking it off-line. But we have no idea what your inverter is since you have not told us, and if it's a lower-end model it may not have a very good behavior for when it "alarms." (Even with the model information it may be hard to know unless it happens to be a well-known quality model with good documentation. Cheap junk tends not to document the things that reveal it to be cheap junk.)

Much better quality battery operated equipment will record the number of amp*hours put in and taken out (and know how big the battery bank is) rather than using the voltage as a rough yardstick.

This website provides some more food for thought, but practical and perfect don't tend to get along well in real life battery bank use scenarios. i.e. you are unlikely to disconect it for 4 hours before checking the voltage, at least in normal use. Occasionally for better numbers when doing maintenance, perhaps.

...And voltage on the whole bank does not give you the detailed info that checking each cell will - if you don't have 12 individual 2 V batteries making up your bank, the only way to get that into is with a hydrometer.


What primer for bare wood stairs with nails showing

They make special paint for stair treads that has anti-slip properties, I would use that. It's typically thick enough top cover the nail heads, but they may work themselves up over time.


Is this a cockroach that I just found in my basement?

Nope. It's a beetle. 99% sure. Can't be 100% because I'm not there but I'll try to verify in a book.  I'm a marine biologist not an entomologist so this may take a while. Lol

Look up ground beetle pics and see if you agree.


How do I open my garage door without a remote from outside?

It sounds like the controller needs to be reset and the remotes reprogrammed.  Usually this requires physical access to the opener, but if you have a hardwired remote it might be possible to pair it via the keypad. Check the manual for your opener.
But back to the problem of how to open it. If the garage does not have an alternative access there should be a manual cable release which disconnects the door from the opener chain so that you can manually open it.  Often this is in the form of a small key near your garage door.  With the key you can open the lock and pull the manual release.

(source: garage-door-automation.co.uk)
If the installation was done correctly, you have one of these you just need to find it.  If you don't have the key a locksmith should be able to open it for you.
If you do not have a manual release then I think you will have to resort to breaking a window.


What low (or no) cost method can I use to shade a south-facing wall from summer heat gain?

A couple of options, which are limited because you're renting.

1) Draw your curtains closed to keep the sun out

2) Air movement really helps! Create a draft by opening doors or windows in the North and south sides of the house.  If you don't have them, put some catches on the doors so they don't slam shut with the draft.

3) You might be able to install a ventilator in the attic space that removes the warm air and helps to reduce heat gain from above into your house.

This is a pretty good video.  Didn't know about the other problems mentioned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Nfvax0Ul5g

4) If 3 isn't an option consider insulate the ceiling (which is good for both summer and winter) - your landlord may pay for it, but if not it may pay for itself in savings to you if you're planning on staying long enough.  If it's already insulated then you may benefit by adding more.

This will prevent excess heat entering the home from above (or leaving in winter).  This heat gain is especially bad on homes with an iron roof.

For people who own their own homes that have heating/cooling issues.

Trees that shade in summer and drop their leaves in winter help enormously.

As do plants that cover housing like ivy.  They keep the heat off of the building and insulate it.  Not everyone wants ivy growing on their houses though.

Another option is to install awnings which fold out for summer use and provide shade from the high sun.  It's a manual and in my opinion less attractive solution to using plants.

Cool the ceiling or attic space with a ventilator.  This removes the hot air and helps prevent it heating up your home.  You can get solar ones or passive ones.


How are insulation R-values calculated for wall cavities of inconsistent thickness?

The Building Code (Energy Code) stipulates the R - values allowed for various building components. (See ICC Chapter 11)
Likewise the Energy Code stipulates the maximum amount of windows, doors, skylights, etc. allowed. (See Table N1104.1(1) and Table N1104.1(2))
All calculations are based on the sum of the R - values in any particular component, (i.e.: walls, roof, etc.) To answer your question: when the component varies in thickness, then the AVERAGE of the R - value for any given AREA (given in square footage) is used.
The Energy Code gives allowable “Prescriptive Paths” that meet the Energy Code criteria for walls, slabs, skylights, HVAC, windows, roofs, etc. If for any reason your construction does NOT meet the “Prescriptive Path” for any component, then you can substitute a higher rating for another component...provided it meets or exceeds the rating and area. (It gets a little tricky substituting a higher rated HVAC unit for using more windows than what’s allowed by the prescriptive path, but there is a formula based on your heating / cooling degree days.)
There are energy calculators you can download, which are suitable for your area (zone).  You can stipulate if the studs are 16” oc or 24” oc,I don’t think you can automatically do “no studs”, but you could add the R - values up longhand. I’d call your local Building Official to get the name of such a software program. (Even I can use the program and I have trouble adding 2 + 2)


How do I properly cut pre-existing kitchen backsplash tile for new low voltage wall plates?

Tile setters use carbide tipped nibblers to trim tiles by small amounts. You would need to have access to the back of the edge you want to trim off so you can grab it with the trimmers. You take small bites, clip clip clip, until you have removed what you need to. There is still the possibility of cracking the tile, but this is your best bet for trimming small amounts off ceramic tile.


Electrical code covering exterior outlet requirement?

Common confusion.  In code language, "Outlet" and "receptacle" are two very different things.

A receptacle is a socket or the usual pair of sockets on a single yoke.

An outlet is any delivery point of electrical power - it includes receptacles but also includes lights, water heaters, doorbell transformers, including hardwired loads.  It is an outlet from the wiring system to an appliance or socket.


Split Gas Line to Gas Water Heater for Gas Dryer

Instead of teeing the 1/2" line where both appliances would be fed through the same section of 1/2" pipe, you would be better off installing the tee upstream, where the 1" coupling is now. This will ensure adequate gas volume to both appliances and allow you to install independent shut-offs. Yes, you will have to shut off the gas at an upstream location, maybe even all the way back at the meter.

You should take this time to eliminate the reducing bushings (I see both a 1"x3/4" and a 3/4"x1/2") as bushings are not supposed to be used on gas lines inside the home (check with your local permitting authority, but that's my understanding). I would just get rid of the 3/4" stuff completely and use a 1"x1/2"x1/2" tee and install valves with flare thread outlets to attach the flex line directly to. Iron pipe and fittings use a tapered thread, you need to get them tight for a good seal, and use thread tape approved for use on gas pipe.

If you are handy at all, you can do this job yourself (don't listen to naysayers), you are allowed to do this work on your own home in most places. Make sure you test all new fittings and those that were disturbed using "gas leak detection juice" or soapy water (little bubbles=small leak, big bubbles=big leak; NO leak is acceptable).


What are my options for hardwood floor scratch and gouge repair?

One option is to replace the board.

You would need to:

Cut out the old board.
Find a board that matches the type and grain of the rest of the floor
Install the new board.
Stain it to match.
Buy your dog a chew toy. :)

UPDATE

You can remove most of the old board by:

Cutting it out with a circular saw.
Using a hammer and chisel (or even a flathead screwdriver) to chip out the ends.
Chisel out the old tongue from the groove in one of the boards still in the floor.

To fasten the new board:

I would apply a liberal amount of would glue to the subfloor.
Slide the tongue of the new board down into the old groove (that you chiseled out).
Put a few face nails in the new board.
Fill and sand the nail holes.


If the smoke is coloured blueish white you are burning bit of oil. it could be many things. overfilling the crankcase with oil, Malfunctioning crankcase breather or air leak in the crankcase are the usual things to check. if the head gasket is sound and you are not operating the machine over 15 degrees tilt all the time that leaves only few other possibilities. simple ones like wrong oil type or water in the gas. You mentioned you check the carb and imo water in the gas is very high unlikely too. Worse case scenario is worn cylinder or rings if ignored can cause big problems. You probably done this already but if it was mine i would drop the oil fully and fill it with exact amount it says on the manual and give her few rounds around the yard with full power without the blades and than engage the blades and start cutting


A hinge door stopper that won't break easily

Better answer is to use a door stop that stops the door rather than the hinge. Anything that mounts at the hinge will eventually pull the hinge screws out or bend the hinge leaves or both.