Can I enhance Wi-Fi with a parabolic reflector?

Maybe, but there are lots of details about digital signal processing that are more complicated than just using a reflector.
Luckily, one of them is a simple off-the-shelf solution: your antenna. Most consumer wifi equipment uses an omni-directional antenna, so it can receive and send in any direction. For a fixed power you can imagine that some of your signal goes off in a direction you don't care about.
Instead your could try directional antennas (which may include a dish) and point then directly at their stationary target. A web search for "directional wifi antenna" will get you started.


Why should I add water in cooler but not in air conditioner?

Presumably when you say "cooler" you mean an evaporative cooler, sometimes called a swamp cooler.  These work in dry climates by evaporating water, which cools the air passing through (and also increases the humidity).  It doesn't actually remove heat - just uses some of the heat to evaporate water, which reduces the temperature of the air. As the water is evaporated, it has to be replaced.

An air conditioner works by using a thermodynamic refrigeration cycle to remove heat from the air.  As the air is cooled, humidity in the air will actually condense so an air conditioner discharges water.


Do dishwashers and clothes washers require dedicated circuits in an older home?

I do not believe either of these situations is hazardous.

However, keep in mind that codes have changed over the years to require a lot MORE circuits in the kitchen than (typically) there used to be. In particular, you should have at least one circuit for small appliances, separate from the disposal, dishwasher and other built-in appliances. But if everything is installed correctly then it is perfectly safe as is, with the catch that if you run a toaster AND disposal AND the dishwasher is doing a heated dry cycle (the motor & controls the rest of the time use relatively little current) then you may trip the breaker.

A radon fan should not use much electricity - I wouldn't be concerned about combining it with your washer circuit.


How to fix dry wall side of newly fitted tiles shower wall?

If you're seeing that water on the drywall on the other side of the wall opposite where the tile is then your shower was not installed with a proper membrane. You need a waterproof memberane and a suitable substrate for the shower.

This would be something like kerdi and/or a tile backerboard painted with redgard. You cannot use drywall to back it, nor can you use "green board" in most states. You need a cement board and/or a waterproof membrane.

Demolish and replace the shower ASAP. The more you allow water to penetrate that wall the bigger and bigger your problem will become. Mold will follow. You cannot correct this problem without removing the tile and, likely, removing the wallboard material in the shower.

Your contractor installed it improperly and he should replace it. Check the rules with the contractor's board in your county. You are likely required to allow the contractor to correct it. You can't just have somebody else do it and bill the contractor.

If you hired a licensed and bonded contractor, the building inspector can pull his bond until the work is corrected. If you hired a craigslist handyman you may be screwed.


Did I remove more caulk then I should have at shower door frame end?

I think squeezing in enough caulk will fill the gap.  You can tape part of the opening to seal it so that you can build a bit of pressure up in there to fill all the crevasses.  It’s important to seal it from the inside too if you can, however keep an eye on the area for a couple weeks, especially right after you do the repair.


What does this shutoff switch in a 100 year old house control? Located in plaster wall near top of basment steps

If it's an on/off switch that as far as you can tell controls nothing, I'd start by pulling the switch away from the wall and attempting to figure out where the wiring goes and to what if any fusebox it connects to.


Kenmore 96573230 Dryer Heating Element Too Hot? (420° F)

After further testing... seems like partially obstructed vent was the issue. I replaced the vent exhaust and the dryer is now operating correctly.


Doorbell dings, dongs, but doesn't ding-dong

It was the transformer.  I replaced it and the doorbell now works as expected.  Upon closer inspection the old transformer was only a 10V model where I needed a 16V one.


Differences in capability between cross-cut, plunge, and traditional circular saws?

You're right that you can do plunge cuts with all of them. The plunge cut saw is designed for more precise control of depth and position of such cuts. It's really more of an industry specialty tool.

It's not clear to me what the differences are between the cross cut and circular saws. I would have a look at them in person and see what features they each have. It appears that one of them may have an exhaust port designed to connect a vacuum. It may therefore be more expensive due to features that you don't need.

Nearly all professional carpenters as well as homeowners in my area used basic circular saws. Try to find one with smooth, quiet bearings and a good reputation for quality. If you need to cut cement board siding, purchase one with sealed bearings. If conversation is important, look for one with the automatic brake, which stops the blade fairly quickly after a cut.


Will Modifying a Wardrobe Box for Temporary Use/Moving ruin its structural integrity?

I'm not completely sure this is on topic, but I'll try.  I assume you mean one of these:

If you want to cut a hole in it, you'll want to cut it in the "front" and make sure you don't go all the way across it from left to right.  Alternatively, you can just use a boxcutter or utility knife to make the seam deeper for the front flap, so you can just reach in directly.  I know what you mean about the bottom being inaccessible, we had the same issue.


Because there will still be a tiny bit of air access and thus water condensation.  You want the insulation acting like an inverted bucket, not a bucket that will catch the water and hold it against the pipe.  Catching the water will cause metal corrosion, mold, and waterlog the insulation.

Making the insulation heavier will also tend to make it want to fall downward.  If the top of the insulation is a crack, it will tend to want to yield and slip out.  Whereas if the crack is at the bottom, the insulation is "just sitting" on the pipe.


Why am I getting condensation on vapour barrier?

I don't see that there's anything wrong. Condensation happens... on any surface that's colder than the dew point of the adjacent air. If anything, it's showing that it was worth doing. Despite only being a few mils thick and easily heated, it's much colder than the inside air due to heat loss through the windows. Without it, the windows would be sucking heat out of your house instead of just the interstitial space. The only thing you can do to reduce condensation is reduce the humidity in your house and/or turn the heat up.


Main panel to subpanel part inside, part outside; does all need to be in conduit?

Firstoff, NM cable cannot go outside.  Fullstop. Doesn't matter if it's in conduit: outdoor conduit is not "indoors".  It actually tends to fill with water due to condensation.
If you really, really, really need to use cable outside, UF-B or MH feeder are the right stuff. However UF-B is very flat and wide, and does not work inside conduit.  (the conduit must be outlandishly large: 2" conduit for 6/3 UF-B).
Given the distance, size of the wires and the fact that you're going to a subpanel, you might consider running aluminum wire to cut down on the cost.  There is nothing wrong with aluminum wire at these large sizes. Further, at #4 and larger, you can use the same THHN wire, no need for white neutral or green ground.
You can decide for yourself whether to run conduit all the way across the crawlspace.  It's not that hard once you get the hang of it.  For novices, I strongly recommend EMT conduit because it has an "Undo" and a "Save game" button: you can do a few segments, take a break, snap photos, get feedback, undo mistakes, and resume as needed.  Then the hard part is behind you; actually pulling the wire is just a "victory lap".
(in conduit you always build out the entire conduit run before you pull ANY wire.  Never assemble conduit over wires: that's simply wrong.)
Some people say "oh, PVC is better"... I suppose that's true if you don't glue it, but then you better really anchor it down well, or come back when it's finished and glue it.   Also EMT provides the ground, so one less wire.
By the way, if your garage is an outbuilding, you can't run separate circuits, you must do a subpanel.  On this forum we strongly recommend people "Think BIG" when choosing a subpanel. I would choose a 24-30 space even if it is laughably bigger than your main panel. Spaces are dirt cheap, and when you add something to the house, it's nice to find the spaces you need waiting for you, instead of having to do a bunch of expensive rework.  While the heaters will largely "max out" the panel, if you aren't running the heaters you could run a machine shop, compressor, welder, even an electric vehicle charger.  These days an EV charger is something homebuyers will pay extra for, and you'll be 90% there.
One other reason to go THHN over cable: With #6 copper or #4 aluminum,

NM and UF cable are limited to 55A (breaker at 60A).
THHN can go to 65A (breaker at 70A). So in that case you could run a 120V saw + dust collector even with both heaters going full-bore.

Your 4000W heaters need to have 125% of that provisioned for them, so 5000W each or 10,000 watts the both.  That's 41.7 amps.  That leaves you 13.3 or 23.3 amps to play with depending.


How can I fix this loose chandelier mount?

With another floor above try removing the plate on the face of the box and see if there are some screws that are loose you can tighten, if no screws , push the box up is it hitting something? That will be a cross brace to screw into. The box is usually less than 2-1/2 deep and with a floor above there should be 6-12 “ clear above the box other than the brace, I have had nails come loose and used screws to reattach the boxes in many cases over the years. The box may also be attached on the side in that case shooting a screw or 2 into the joist would work.


If it is r22 that would be about the right price I know the shops are charging close to $100 per pound, if the system was running I could see maybe 1/2 that in 5 minutes maybe on a hot day (that just sounds a bit fast to me) is your system a 5 ton?  If smaller I don't think it could take 11 lbs of Freon unless totally flat and then it should have been pumped down. A very long line set may require more freon. As far as replacing the evaporator that would take hours to do. There will be a tag on your unit that stated the type of Freon and the required charge in pounds and ounces something like 13lb 8oz (I think that was the charge on a friends 5 ton I charged last weekend it took 8 lbs ) I do mostly industrial systems but help friends so I might be a bit more cautious than someone that charges several units a day. If it took 11 lbs of r22 I think the cost would be close to what the going price in Oregon is now.


Placement of a package unit heat pump for my shop

longneck's answer above is correct based on the wire and if you can do it, but doesn't really answer if you would benefit from doing it.

There are a number of reasons, but I wouldn't worry much about the shade. Unless the shade is significant in that it actually lowers the surrounding air temperature some, it's a pretty minor improvement. Secondly, you might have the shade in the summer when cooling the space, but (depending on where you are located) you will also have the shade in the winter when trying to heat it.

You can place the unit farther away and other than the ductwork, you are mainly looking at just a higher cost in getting the circuit there.

Take into account the other factors on locating the unit - like noise, space around it (for mowing and such), running the duct, etc. Locate it where convenient and it impacts you the least.


Should I filter polluted outside air as it comes through my window or clean it inside the room?

You have the right idea. Since you have the inverse of most situations, where your outdoor air is more polluted than indoors, you should filter incoming air. Then, since not all air will be cleaned (such as through doorways), an indoor air purifier is still a good idea.


Why is the water vessel overflowing on my air conditioner?

I have a similar model pump. About once a quarter I need to take the clear basin out and the float and clean all the gunk off of it then it works fine for a few months. Those mini pumps are really finicky. You could also check the outlet to make sure it isn’t clogged.


How can I drill a hole in a small stick of wood?

This sounds like a long pencil with a wire instead of a lead.  There are a number of videos and pictures showing how pencils are made on the web.  What it boils down to is that first you make the holes (grooves actually, since you do it in halves), and then you make the sticks round.  Much easier than the other way around.

If you need to make a lot of them I think it will be safer and more efficient to do adapt the pencil manufacturing method to your job.


Grout or caulk between acrylic bathtub and tile?

In all the shower installs I overseen, the company I worked for maintained that caulk is to be used in any inside corners except where excessive/standing water is. For example, caulk corners where tub and walls meet, and vertical inside corners where the walls come together. DO NOT caulk where the floor and walls meet, I personally seen caulk creep out of the joint after a week of use in a residence I worked on while I was finishing up the punch list.

Find a reputed mold/mildewcide to clean the joint after you clear all the old grout then allow to dry as long as possible and use a color matched caulk. This is available at Home Depot or at tile supply houses. It is available in sanded or unsanded.

In theory, it may trap moisture, but when the tile is installed and the grout sealed, which should be the case, between the tile being water impervious and the grout has been sealed from moisture infiltration, the amount of water getting past both those points is very minor in my opinion, I read this is so elsewhere.

11-30-2013 addition

To clean the joint of old grout, protect the tub with blue painters tape, maybe a few layers and use a razor knife to begin to V cut the grout out, again be careful the side of the razor knife will be rubbing very hard on the tub/tape and can wear through readily. There is a grout saw available at hardware stores, but they will cut a joint about 1/8" wide, most tile is set closer. If you use this, use a metal shield of some sort to protect the surface of the tub. A large drywall knife (12") would work or a section of very thin gauge metal purchased from a hardware store where they sell small pieces of flat metal. Careful with this, it must be kept secure from moving or the metal will deposit gray marks on the acrylic. Tape it to the tub at the ends and let the metal go up to the face of the tile so any scratches is covered by the new caulk.

To caulk, first the joint MUST be clean and dry, cut the tip to the size of the joint, and apply caulk. Look as the caulk is exiting the tip to ensure the caulk is going INTO the joint, this is where the work is done by the caulk, This why it must be clean. Yes there will be caulk EVERYWHERE to a degree. This is why I keep a 5 gal. bucket handy half filled with water and a rounded edge sponge to clean the surface. Paper towels won't last in the cleaning process, and it may gouge out the caulk if a folded corner of the paper towel goes awry.

To clean the excess caulk, with the wetted sponge, squeezed the daylights out of it to get most of the water out of it. It is imperative you are not depositing too much water on the surface of the tile, it will weaken the caulk. You can clean the caulk from the surface completely leaving the caulk only in the joint and with the color matched caulk, it will look like the other joints on the wall. These caulks are specified to tubs and showers.


I would consider some of that "solid" expanded foam insulation with or without aluminum facing...

Should be available in a 2" thickness, cut to fit and possibly glued should work well.


How can I get a standby generator with GFI to work with a 2-pole transfer switch?

This site seems to have a decent explanation:

Some portable generators are intended for use on jobsites, and therefore are subject to OSHA regulations for GFCI protection on all receptacles.  These "contractor grade" generators have their neutral wire bonded to the ground wire to pass OSHA inspection on job sites.  Since home and building main load centers also have the neutral bonded to ground, a loop is created, comprised of the neutral wire and the ground wire. A small amount of current is induced in this loop by the running generator. and since the neutral wire passes through the ground fault sensor, the GFCI senses this induced current and trips the main circuit breaker in the generator.
When using these neutral bonded generators to power a house or building through a transfer switch, the neutral bond wire on the generator must be removed, preferably by a dealer or a qualified electrician. NOTE: After this action, the generator will no longer pass OSHA inspection on job sites. Contact your dealer to determine if the neutral bond can be removed, and we recommend that a dealer perform this task.  Honda dealers may refer to Honda Service Bulletin #20 for instructions on removing the neutral bond.  Once this is done, no modifications to your transfer switch installation are needed.
If the neutral bond cannot be removed, you have two choices.  The easiest solution is to lift the ground wire coming from the generator inside the transfer switch, and secure it with a wire nut, by itself.  This eliminates the loop.  Your other choice is to install a Switched Neutral Kit (SNK) accessory with your transfer switch, available thru our website.

Note that the generator is still grounded, it's just the neutral bond is gone. This means that the generator does not meet code for stand-alone operation anymore.

So your options are:

Install a switched neutral kit
Change to a neutral-switching transfer switch
Remove the ground-neutral bond from your genset

Here's the instructions on how to do this for Honda generators: http://www.gen-tran.com/assets/pdfs/HondaGeneratorServiceBulletin20.pdf
Here's another good site that explains the issue and how to fix for several other generators: http://members.rennlist.org/warren/gt5000c.html


Increasing the capacity of an electric baseboard thermostat

Use the solid state to drive a relay (that actually switches the baseboard) that is rated for the amps.


Call an architect. Seriously call one. Let them know what you'd like to do. Ask for some ideas. They can take the structure, age, other home styles in the area and give you a slew of options that are suitable and sound.

And it shouldn't cost that must either. They can suggest and sketch out rather quickly the style based on many factors including load weight, pitch, roof material you're going to use and more. There's modern materials, ways to get light in, sun roofs, venting, insulation that all factor in to a design.

A local architect is also in the know on building codes etc.

Looking around for ideas it's one thing but if you're serious about replacing the roof, an architect is the one to consult.


How do LED light fixtures accomplish multi-spectral (switch-selectable) color temperature capability?

That is correct.  They contain both cool white and warm white elements, and they  dim/blend between them.  You only really need two color temps - 2700k and 5500k - to cover the gamut with dimming/blending.


How many horsepower does a 159cc engine have?

The cubic centimeter displacement spec of the engine does not directly specify the horsepower. There are other factors such as compression ratio, spark timing and operational RPM at which the horsepower is measured.

You really need to look closely at the engine name plate to see if it specifies the horsepower or contact the manufacturer for details.


Repurpose light switch to control surge protector?

This would be fine if you mount the switch in an electrical box in the wall and use it, for example, to switch the receptacle (or just half of the receptacle) that your surge suppressor or battery unit is plugged into.

For instance, you could us an "old work" box to put the switch in the wall above the desk, and fish NM cable to/from the box with the receptacle in the wall at the normal height off the floor behind the desk.

EDIT

I should probably whip out Visio or a paint program and draw my own diagram, but I'm going to bed so I'll use one I found on the net. :-)

Make sure you've turned off the power to the outlet box before you mess with it.

So here's a picture (below) of what gets hooked up to what. Note that the wire you would fish through the wall to the new switch box is 14/3 or 12/3 (I presume the receptacle already exists, so match whatever size wire is already there).

The reason you'll run 3-conductor (plus ground) wire, is that code now requires a neutral in pretty much every switch box, and if you're not using some kind of occupancy sensor or other device in the switch, which would use the neutral, you just cap it off for later use.

If you decide later that you want to only switch half of the receptacle, you would pigtail the black wire in the receptacle box just like the white wire, connect the black pigtail to one of the hot terminals on the receptacle, connect the black return wire from the switch to the other hot terminal, and break the little brass tab that connects the two hot terminals.  DO NOT break the tab on the neutral side.

Normally, that tab is left intact so you only have to connect one hot lead to the receptacle, or so that you can wire power straight through the receptacle to continue the circuit on to somewhere else.

But you can use needle nose pliers or a small screwdriver to bend that tab back and forth a few times until it breaks off, to electrically isolate the top and bottom sockets.

Finally, this is partially personal preference, but I would wrap the wires around the screw terminals, clockwise (direction you turn the screw) and screw them down tight, instead of poking them into the backstab connectors (if there are any backstab connectors). If the wire is #12 (thicker), the backstab connectors aren't appropriate anyway. You can end up with bad/broken connections inside the receptacle, too much heat and potential for fire.

If you feel uncomfortable tackling this, see if you can get a smart friend to help out. Or call an electrician. But this isn't too tough to do.

There are a few ways to cut the hole in the sheetrock for the "old work" box. Make sure you put that box in the middle somewhere between two studs, not right up against a stud, or there won't be room for the ears on the box to rotate and catch the sheetrock. Don't cut too deep and damage another electrical wire.

The clips in the openings in the back of the box are clamps for the cable, so don't break those out. They'll clamp down and hold the cable in the box.

Don't cut the insulation on the wires inside the non-metallic cable when you trim the sheathing off. Also, leave at least 1/4" of sheathing inside the box. Trim off enough sheathing that you have about 6" of wire poking out of the box, so it's easier to work with. You'll want to beg, borrow or buy some wire strippers. In a pinch you could trim the insulation off the end of the wires with the utility knife.

Remember that loose electrical connections lead to fires. Make all the wire connections nice and tight (wire nuts, screw terminals on the switch and receptacle). When you screw the wire nuts on, pull on all of the wires to make sure you can't pull any of them out of the wire nut. The whole idea of the wire nut is that it clamps the wires together hard, so screw it down tight.


Is there a name for a duplex outlet that takes eight wires, plus ground?

Leviton has a useful web page for device lookup here. Using that, you can find the replacement receptacle is a Leviton 5252. Most shopping sites (like amazon) don't show the back, but a Google image search with that model number does show several pictures of the back.


How to remove wasp paper from soffit vents and siding

We won't read about your house burning down as a result of using fire, will we? It was my first instinct to suggest fire as an answer, but it's really not a good one. A pressure washer would not be advised, due to water getting in the worst place, insulation!

That leaves high pressure air, from a compressor, as a possible solution. It's certainly less damaging than a pressure washer and will not cause insulation problems either. Combine a stiff brush with the high pressure air flow and you'll have a decent result.


Place, inject, or shoot pellets, sand, or gravel into space above?

I don't think what you are trying will work. You appear to be attempting to dry out a ceiling cavity using silica desiccant, but:

1) Silica gel is a one-use material. Once it's full of water, that's it.

2) I'm a bit worried about the weight; if you're placing this into a ceiling cavity, it'll be supported by the drywall, and basically nothing else. Back of the envelope says 44 lb/sq ft, (assuming you place it one foot deep) plus 40% for water weight, so 60 lb/sq ft. This is a significant weight. Even one inch will give 5lb/sq ft over the entire cavity, and drywall is not designed to provide any support. If you're putting enough silica in the cavity that it's necessary to bring in actual power tools, the weight matters.

If the actual problem you need to solve is removing moisture from a ceiling cavity, there are better ways of doing this. (Solve the issues that allow moisture to accumulate, then add ventilation to encourage evaporation.)


How do I fix laminate flooring that's begun to rise in the middle?

Depending on the layout, you might be able to fix this without taking up any of the flooring.  Here in the US at least, laminate flooring is usually installed in a floating manner, where the individual laminate boards are not attached to the subfloor at all and the entire floor is free to expand and contract (assuming it's not bound up at the edges).  The expansion gap around the perimeter of the room is hidden under a baseboard and some variety of quarter-round or shoe molding.

If your floor is buckling because its expansion gap isn't big enough, you should be able to remove that shoe molding and baseboard and cut the edges to increase the gap without pulling up the flooring.  I'd recommend an oscillating multifunction tool for this as it will let you cut very close to the wall, unlike a circular saw.  Here's a cheap one from Harbor Freight.


Come along (Hoist Puller) vs Ratchet Strap

You might be confusing rated working load with the actual ability to pull. The comealong has a much longer lever arm and is therefore better suited to manually pull loads. The ratchet strap, on the other hand, is intended for transport. It's designed to handle dynamic loading of cargo on trucks, etc.

The bottom line is that they serve different purposes and you should select the one that meets your functional needs the best.


Sanding with a very fine grit. And then possibly repainting with a matte finish if the results aren't good enough to your liking.


Why would a sprinkler Air Valve leak after winterization?

Without a picture I am guessing, but it sounds like the "something connected above the air valve" is your pressure vacuum breaker.  A pressure vacuum breaker prevents water from flowing from the outside back into your main water line (and then into your drinking water).  It will allow water from inside your water main to travel through it with the water pressure from your house forcing open the pressure vacuum breaker (while water traveling in the reverse direction closes the valve and prevents contamination of your drinking water).

It does sound like the sprinkler water main has a very slow leak.  And I imagine a slow leak from your sprinkler water main is not enough to completely open the pressure vacuum breaker and it is just exiting at this point (when the air valve is closed).


How can I automatically disconnect a coffee maker and space heater without tripping the building's 20A circuit breaker?

Put your computers on a UPS, even a small one. Just protecting yourself from short power outages will save you a bunch of downtime. Even if you resolve your overload issue, this is still worth it.

Most computer users today can get by with a laptop that's under $500, giving you built-in battery backup & portability in a compact, low-power package. Plug it in to your keyboard, mouse, and monitor the same as your desktop today, so your work experience doesn't change.

The power strip you linked to (http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/surge-protectors/home-surge/6050S.html?selectedTabId=specifications&imageI=#tab-box) doesn't appear to have a breaker. I think that whoever wrote that was just confused about what it means to be rated for 15A.

If your coffee maker and space heater are in the same location, you could plug them into mutually exclusive switched outlets. You'll need:

A steel square box, and an appropriate face plate
A regular duplex receptacle. 15A or 20A can work
a 3-way switch
cable
plug (15A or 20A, to match the recep)
fittings

Snap off the tab on the hot side of the recep, then run short leads from those 2 screws to the 3-way switch. This will let the switch choose one socket or the other. Plug in the heater on one and the coffee maker on the other. Now it's easy to make sure only one is in use at a time.

(Later I will add some pictures and other details. If anyone has pointers to the correct fittings and cable, please comment.)


RPC trips separate GFCI circuits on start up. Why?

George that is a soft start. This is a way to reduce the current on start up the common way is twin SCR’s that are pulsed on until the motor is at speed. This creates a large amount of harmonics that end up on the neutral and even the ground circuits. If you look at my original comment I thought that might be the case. Line reactors on the incoming line may be the best in this case, however RFI filters on the line side may also work but a good ground reference is needed for RFI filters , I have seen harmonics cause 20+ volts on the neutral and 13+ volts on grounds and this affects other circuits like you are experiencing. One way to see if this is the problem is to monitor the neutral to ground voltage when you start the system.  More than 2.5 volts in my experience not only causes GFCI problems but can cause switching power supplies like in computers and many lighting circuits to malfunction because the reference voltage is shifted. We see this in industrial facilities quite often and use line reactors mostly. 20 hp in a home based system is more than 2x anything I have ever seen and 4x normal homes in my experience.
Edit : whoops I thought it was 20 Hp not 20 amps. Still similar issues but a 1-2 hp motor may be able to be soft started without a line reactor but RFI filters may be the best option. I would suggest checking your homes grounding electrode system. Not that many years back a single water pipe feeding the home was totally code legal but with updates to plastic pipe some of these homes end up with insufficient grounds and the reason multiple grounding electrodes required today or supplemental ones.


Will old flats always have a crack and holes problem?

If your foundations, roof and exterior walls are sound then you should not see any new cracks forming.
If they are not your house will continue to fall down in slow motion and cracks will continue to form.


Cover old ugly floor in a rented apartment?

You can't alter anything about an apartment without permission of the landlord. With their permission, the answer is: anything! Without it, the answer is: nothing.


My hunch is you have 3 cables in this box:

A /2 cable (black white ground?) which delivers power from the panel
A /2 cable (black white ground?) which carries power onward to other loads
A /3 cable (black white red ground?) which carries switched fan power, switched lamp power, and neutral to the fan.

Your old switch had two screws which were joined with a "tab", and the tab was NOT broken off.   If the tab is broken off, the screws are totally separate.  If the tab is NOT broken off, then it's a fat 4-way splice, connecting (that side of) both switches, and both attached wires also.  This is confusing, but it's also just what is needed.

Each switch has power on one side, and on the other side, switched-power to the fan or lamp.  So you make the "one side" the "common" side with the tab not broken off.

Based on my earlier assumptions, the black wires from both /2 cables go on the "common" side.

That leaves the red and black from the /3 cable going to the 2 screws on the independent side.


Wanting to make a frosted-glass dry erase whiteboard

I've used Artscape window film with great results. From what I remember, you just cut the film to size and use a squeegee and water with a bit of soap to adhere it to the glass. I'm not sure if they have a solid frosted pattern though. You'll most likely want to find a sheet big enough that you won't have any seams.

One alternative to drilling holes for standoffs is to get edge-mounted standoffs like these:

Otherwise, if you like the look of something like this (note, you'll have to buy the bases separately) better, use carbide drill bits specifically for glass cutting. Make sure you've got plenty of support for the glass sheet. Make sure you're far enough away from the edge - I'd leave no less than 1" between the edge and the hole. Start on one side and drill partway through. Stop before you reach the other side and flip the glass over. Drill through from the backside to avoid chipping or cracking the glass.


There may be some opinion on top of what I believe to be true.
There are some large flex duct sizes but the ribs are horribly inefficient.
 Metal trunk is also better suited when going vertical it is easier to secure.
 Frame work is square to box-in a round trunk the box would be much larger.
I have seen DIY main trunk in a home we were replacing the “mess” that really did not work well , added adjustable baffle dampers and the system worked where prior the furthest rooms had no flow graduated size ducting fixed the mess.
So sure it can be done but the trunks will take up more room and not work as well.


Concrete casting: acrylic sheets inside styrofoam box to reuse form

Traditional wood forms intended to be reused are oiled so the concrete doesn't stick.  There are many ways to do what you want, breakdown wood forms, plastic, whatever. Not much will stick to concrete if the forms are removed when the concrete is cured just enough to stay together.  Make sure the insides of your forms have draft angles built in so they can be removed without tearing out some concrete and lube the forms well.  This can be done but you'll have to experiment a bit.

One thing absolutely to keep in mind is concrete is very heavy, a 4 ft x 4 ft sidewalk slab weighs about 700 lbs, so the biggest concern is making the forms strong enough to not collapse.  Foam foundation forms are extensively cross tied so they don't blow out and are made from strong foam. A thin acrylic sheet without good bracing will bow severely.  Based on one of my messy mistakes, marginal forms explode right when you have them just about full!


This answer is in two parts. Read both parts before proceeding.

Part one:

Here is one way to wire two switches to do what you describe:

The switch on the left is a "three-way" and the switch on the right is a "four-way". As usual, I have omitted the fault ground wires to make the diagram clearer.

This can also be done with four conductors between the switch boxes instead of five, if you confine all the wires in a conduit or single cable. Just combine the two neutral wires into one.

I have diagrammed the method that uses one 12/3 and one 12/2 because where I live, in the U.S.A., you can buy non-metallic sheathed 12/3wG and 12/2wG cable in any building supply store, while 12/4wG is relatively hard to find.

EDIT: I have updated the diagram with the color tapes suggested in Harper's answer.

Part two:

Are you sure you want to do this? Unless you live in an abandoned missile silo, it doesn't make much sense to wire your home so that you can never turn off the lights. Are you going to have one light burning even in the daytime? Does no one sleep in your house?

Many people ask this question but no one has ever reported implementing it and being satisfied with the result.


It's hard to tell what that is but I would not worry too much. If it was from a water leak I would think that you would see discoloration down along the bottom, along with actual swelling of the particle board. That, along with your statement that there are no other signs or symptoms, make me think that could be a dirty smudge left by the hand of a carpenter, painter, installer, etc.


How do I start/charge a Toro Electric-Start Lawnmower?

The instructions direct the button to be put in only one way. The curved arrow does not mean to flip the button over; it means the button causes the engine to turn.

When you stop the mower it directs removal of the button and taking it away (so some unauthorized user can't start the mower just by pulling the bail and pressing the button).


Do they still make attachments for this track lighting?

Lamps (bulbs) you will definitely find, additional heads you will most likely not.

That stuff is cheap home center lighting. The type of thing they'll have in stock for a few months and then you may never see it again. That, or they'll get some back in from a new importer that looks similar but is functionally different. Also, parts for things like this are basically nonexistent. If you do happen to find it you only bet will likely be to buy a whole additional set and use just the heads.


Water heater overflow outside drain pipe

Since your question says hot water, not steam escaping from overflow, my first thought would be to check for a faulty high pressure relief valve.  This is the cylinder with the little lift switch usually mounted atop the tank with the drain line attached.


Actually 100% silicone isn't a great caulk in my book. It's hard to get off later and typically isn't UV resistant.

What you want is a solid outdoor oil-based (mineral spirit cleanup) caulk (sometimes called Window/Siding). I really like Quad, but anything made for outdoors will do (even some latex products).

If I were you, I'd also replace the cover. It's looking weathered. Once you've caulked it, you'll be less likely to replace it in the near future. I would highly recommend an in-use (bubble type) cover.


Is Complete Ductwork Required to Start the Condensor?

The air handler, blower, is designed to blow a certain amount of air over the cooling coils which in turn converts the refrigerant back to a gas from a liquid. It can only get the correct amount of air if all the returns and supplies are installed, otherwise the blower will not function as designed and can ice up the coils. This affects the compressor operation as the transformation of the refrigerant from gas to liquid back to gas is compromised. If the outside unit has to be charged or topped off if it's a precharged unit, everything needs to be running correctly to get the right refrigerant charge in the unit.


How do I cover one side of a two-sided fireplace with bricks?

Did the transparent glass "back wall" explode because you added the front side glass doors and as a result the temperature in the fire box area went way up???

You need to consider carefully the airflow and draw requirements of the fireplace and the chimney that vents it out through the roof. Changing the design can really change the temperatures of the internal space!!

I would think that if you were to block off the far side with bricks that you may need to line the inside of the brick with special heat resistant fire bricks. Regular bricks could get extra hot and shatter too.

If you really need to have the front side glass doors make sure that there is a part of the design that permits the proper amount of air flow in around the sides of the door assembly for the chimney draw to work correctly.


Do I need a neutral wire when connecting a 240V device?

Depends partly on the device. Some electric ranges/cooktops/driers have electronic controls which run on 120V even though they're controlling 240V; they get that 120V by connecting between one leg of the 240V supply and neutral. In that case, obviously, without neutral those controls don't run.


Will an LED light bulb illuminate down on this uplight lamp?

Here's a photo of the bulb in question:

I have that same bulb and when used in a shade that hides the bulb itself, it does radiate similarly to an incandescent. The bulb has an array of small LED's around the edge that light up the thicker ridge of plastic, it essentially looks like a bright tube of evenly lit light, so the light radiates in all directions. However, the thinner plastic in the middle isn't lit. Since the entire ring is lit starting from the bottom of the bulb and the ring is wider than the base, some light is radiated downwards, but like a traditional bulb, more of the light ends up going upwards since the base blocks some of the downward lighting pattern.

This unusual shape can be visible in a lamp with a translucent shade or in a fixture where the bulb is exposed. In a lamp with a traditional paper (or paper-like) shade that is nearly opaque, this type of bulb has a very even light distribution.

Here's the light at a low dim level, showing the LED's around the ring:

But when the light is at full power, they all blend together and project light evenly, lighting up the entire "tube".

I tried these bulbs in a bathroom fixture, but discovered that the translucent shade on the fixture was transparent enough that the bulb shape was quite visible, so I replaced them with more traditional looking LED bulbs.

Since the floor lamp you're using has the bulb above eye level, as long as the shade is sufficiently frosted to prevent the bulb shape from showing through, it should work well.


I have to reset switch in basement if I don't turn off space heater when I use the blow dryer

A cellphone charger is an inconsequential load.  The lamp would also be inconsequential if you'd put LED bulbs in it.  The laptop certainly uses less than 10% of the circuit's capacity, maybe even 3-5%.

A blow dryer is a huge load, and takes 80% of a circuit's capacity.

A heater is also a huge load that takes 80% of a circuit's capacity.

Those two devices take so much because their mission is to create heat.  They want to make as much heat as possible, so they use the circuit up to its limits.

Most bedrooms have 1 circuit, so it's effectively all the same side.

Now that you know, you could try living with it.

Or you could use the blow dryer in the bathroom, which usually has a separate circuit for this reason.

You could use the house's own heating system instead of using space heaters, gas is cheaper to heat with.

You could install hardwired electric heaters on their own circuit, the heaters are cheap, the power to run them is expensive.

Other than that, yeah, you'd have your electrician pull another bedroom circuit.  We cannot begin to speculate what that would cost, because it totally depends on the particular construction of your home.  It will be at least $100 and likely a whole lot more.  This varies too much to even guess at.

Details...  Household power in North America is 120 volts.  That switch downstairs (called a breaker) will have a number on it, probably 15, which the curcuit's capacity in amps.  Useful power is measured in watts, which is volts x amps.  15 amps x 120 volts  is 1800 watts.  Most devices will state their watts.  Some will state amps, and you must multiply by 120.

Watts are often abbreviated W, or sometimes you see a similar unit called VA.

Your cell phone charger is probably 7-10 watts -drop in the bucket.

Your laptop is probably somewhere between 35W and 150W.

Your lamp - anyone's guess. They made 500W halogens. LED bulbs are as little as 7W.

Your hair dryer will say, but expect to see 1500W.

Your heater, ditto.


Should I replace old wooden siding with brick?

Adding a brick facade to the lower front of your house may not be as easy as you may think. Your contractor may have issues with installing a footing to support the weight and proper backing to attach the brick ties, not to mention building out all the window and door jams to match the new depth.  This could be a very expensive change.

As far as adding value; value is in the eyes of the beholder when it comes to cosmetic choices. A brick veneer will not have the same value as a structural brick wall. Exterior sidings do not command as much value as a new bathroom or kitchen would. The question you have to ask yourself is, "Would a new buyer want to spend the additional $$$ on a brick veneer as opposed to traditional matching siding?" Don't get me wrong, curb appeal is very important, but the style of siding is rarely the "WOW" factor that drives a substantial increased value. Having a clean and neat exterior appearance is the first step in getting folks to walk through the front door with a positive attitude. What people see the first minute once in the door makes all the difference with perceived value.


How do I stain a pressure treated pine fence?

If you stain it now, it will change the end color of the wood. You have to wait for it to turn natural, so either wait six weeks or put it up green. The outside environment will dry it faster than sitting in a pile.

Reasons Green lumber accepts stain poorly, while older wood absorbs stains relatively well. The porosity of wood can vary greatly, even within the same piece of wood. Green treated wood refers to lumber infused with chemicals that delay or prevent deterioration.

These chemicals reduce the possibility of wood rot. Unfortunately, they also infuse the wood with deep-set moisture that prevents uniform stain absorption. Let the green treated wood sit and dry out before attempting the project. Test the stain before committing to full-scale application, or you'll end up with disappointing results.

PS: Make sure your sealer is water- and UV-resistant and contains anti-mildew and anti-algae agents to help the wood stand up to weathering effects.


Removing switched outlet and 4 terminal outlet with 2 terminal outlet?

Coloring is often unreliable. But in this case, it appears colors are being used consistently.  In all cases:

White is neutral
Black is always-hot
Red is switched-hot (or rather, was.)

It appears supply hot and neutral enters the system at the light switch.  Always-hot, switched-hot and neutral is carried from the light switch to the pictured receptacle.  Then, always-hot and neutral are carried downstream to the next receptacle (not pictured).

Your old receptacle has a "broken off" tab separating the screw terminals used by red and black.  This allows hot to be controlled independently on each socket of the receptacle.

You are familiar with wire-nuts and pigtails, as you are using them in the former switch location.

That short length of black wire between the yellow ribbed and red wirenuts is superfluous.  You can add the red wire to the red wirenut, and liberate a yellow wirenut and a pigtail.  Wire nut colors indicate size (number of wires they can handle) not function.

I gather your new receptacle only has one hot and neutral screw. (USB?)  Therefore you will need to pigtail neutral to the new receptacle.  Ordinarily I would say you need to pigtail hot as well, note that it is already pigtailed.  You could continue with that, and simply cap off the red, as it is redundant and you are not allowed to parallel wires.  However, instead, I would remove that pigtail, leave only the two blacks spliced to each other in the back of the box, and land the red wire on this receptacle.  That will give the red wire something to do.


How can I close off a toilet drain in a concrete floor

Expanding drain plug, fits into inside diameter of pipe than expands to seal when the nut is tightened.


Water sometimes come up in my tub, but my drain is not clogged.I in a condo on first floor of 14 story high rise

Clearly your drain is clogged, but below where your sink joins the main drain; it is not fully blocked however.

If enough people run their sinks/whatever hits that line, it fills up and backs up, and eventually it will hit your sink.


The plastic should be flexible enough to bend a little.
Put the end of the screwdriver in the head of the screw and then try to force the screwdriver in or more strait while turning it. Apply pressure up into the screw as you turn it as well.
Somebody got it in, you should be able to get it out.
If you can not get it out or the head strips you could cut the screw with a mini hacksaw.


okay to use fatter/longer extension cord than spec'd for power tools?

The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw.  The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low.  The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord;  the longer the cord, the greater the drop.  However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.

(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord - the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)

You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not).  The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts.  A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts.  So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.

If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load.  If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.


How secure is a live bamboo fence compare to chain link or barbed wire fences?

I came across some of these in New Zealand.  About 2 feet thick, and bloody well impenetrable. Also completely unclimbable.  You're not stopping a chainsaw, arsonist or bulldozer, but neither is a wood fence.


How to remove Tile levelling clips (T-type) that have partially broken off?

Utility knife worked best, thanks for the suggestions.


Ceiling fan light flickers one time when fan is turned off with switch

i don't think there's anything wrong with it per se, that's just how it's made/designed. The cause is quite complex, but I'll try to explain.
Keep in mind that the built-in LED is very sensitive to even small amounts of power.
When you use the remote to turn it off, a tiny computer in the fan either tells the LED's DC power supply to turn off, or it disconnects the LEDs from the DC power using a transistor, and the light shuts cleanly off.
When you use the switch, that tiny computer is unplugged and cannot control anything, so the effect is indeterminate. There's enough residual power in the power supply that finds it's way to the LEDs without a controller controlling. It could even be generated (literally) by the fan still spinning, inducing a current that flows back into the incoming supply and drains the only place it can; the light.
At any rate, it's harmless, if annoying. You could hack apart the fan and make some adjustments to the circuitry, but that will void the warranty, bother your insurance, and risk breaking things, all for a rather small payout.


Levelling across multiple garden grids or concrete path tiles

I am hearing that you have checked the regulations and want to push the boundaries and if you get caught be able to easily remove all your work.

First and foremost you NEVER want a level ground in the out of doors.  You have to know where every drop of water that lands on your property will travel to.  I AM an expert with grading and drainage.  I taught that class in an accredited Landscape Architecture Program, University of Idaho.

What is the percentage of non-permeable surface you are allowed on your property? What slopes are you dealing with?  How close to your home's foundation will you be augmenting?

Gravel is a wonderful surface, I kid you not.  Crushed gravel, not pea gravel compacted is way cool but still has very little permeability.  I got a feeling you've looked into this, excellent, but tell me how much permeability you've already used up and how much more you want to add.  You can do this without permits but if your neighbors aren't great friends, they will turn you in for anything you do.  Thus worrying about taking up concrete or pavers or slabs or even deck would explain your worries.  There are a few ways around these rules but I'd have to know lots more information.  Or I could give you options that would allow you to sleep at night.

The reason they do this is sort of obvious.  Such as making perfectly level surfaces out of doors is just wrong.  If your property doesn't allow for water to get back into the water table because you've got it all concreted or covered with impermeable surfaces, you are only allowing water to gather and gouge and run amok through your city or residential area.  If everyone did what they wanted with their property we'd be in big trouble.  Be nice if the city would educate WHY the rules are in place!

Here is the answer to a perfectly level out of doors workspace; The ground below the gravel is SLOPED.  Above that the gravel is compacted to level and the 2 inches of sand is compacted to level...try to make at least a 1% slope for your pavers.  I need to learn to draw on this internet.  Using just words is tough. The area you need is not that big of a deal.  Don't mess with grids all you need are the cmu concrete modular units in paver sizes (2X7X9 inches) with their plastic edging.  Hard plastic you pound into the soil with huge spikes...not railroad spikes but this stuff holds your pavers in solidly.  No spaces in between pavers!  They should be 2 inches thick no thinner.  This makes a CMU paver.  4" compacted gravel (5/8 minus at the most) with 2" mason sand compacted then laying your pavers using the edging.  Wonderful surface.  Just be aware, most municipalities have rules for impermeable surfaces.

I love concrete. But pavers are far far more superior!  Look for 'Roman Cobble'. 4" of gravel, 2" of sand, make the subsoil with a slope, edge with 2X6 pressure treated lumber and you will LOVE this surface! Don't use any other color than dove gray with a small percentage of dark gray for your pavers.  It is up to you but there is not another color for concrete pavers or walls or any structure in the garden that works as well as dove gray.  Perhaps a bright blue painted something or other but you want your hardscape to blend in...all dove gray and the plants pop out like crazy.


Kenmore washer won't start after tripping breaker

There is certainly something majorly wrong with the washer. The circuit breaker tripped for a good reason due to what ever is wrong with the washer. This should not be ignored and the cause needs to be rooted out for the sake of safety and protection of property.

I state this the way I did because all too often folks will think that there is just some simple transient fault that tripped the breaker and that if they simply tweak something they can proceed on as before without really understanding why the breaker was tripped in the first place.

It is doubtful that the breaker trip has anything to do with the door switch on the washer. Far more likely the trip was caused by one of these things:

Something has gotten caught in the agitator mechanism and is causing a drive motor stall.
The wash tub bearing seals have failed and water has gotten into the bearings causing them to seize up and overload the drive motor.
A direct short in a line powered solenoid valve coil.
A jammed up drive mechanism in a washer with a transmission has caused a drive motor stall.
For washers with a direct drive motor one of the motor driver components has developed a short.
A short has happened inside the motor windings.
Some part of the line voltage wiring became frayed and had caused a short to the frame of the washer.


How should I seal a butt joint in a tight space?

I am sorry to hear about your water damage issue - stinks for sure.

You mention if it were adhesive you could do it from either side of the hvac - sounds like you have access to the back side of that unit ?? If So see method 1 if not see method 2.

METHOD 1:

Use the dry wall tape on a flat stick and push to the back side so you can get to it. Then use Push Pins (like thumb tacks) to hold it in place. Pull it up into position on the front side and secure it with pins - you can then run some joint compound over it a long handled putty knife (probably need to make your own handle here) or use a 'paint roller' to try and spread it flat.

METHOD 2:

To repair that tight space dry wall butt (amazing you installed the dry wall there). What I would do is make a jig that can hold my dry wall tape on one end like a long flat bar (much like you have sandpaper in a small sander , place joint compound on the end and slide that in place and get the end in the correct position. Set your jig in the proper position that the tape would be able to be pulled across flat . Wait for the joint compound to dry - now it is secured to the back side and you can add compound with a roller or a long handled putty knife while pulling the tape tight and flush.

METHOD 3:

Some drywall tape actually does have an Adhesive Backing - look for the WEB TAPE with Adhesive..

EDIT 8 MAR 2018


I'd suggest a 2 piece corner connector like a Simpson Strong-Tie LCE4. Link. This will transfer your load to the post below. The same connector could be used for your roof-bearing post. Or you could move the roof post in a tiny bit and use an AC connector (same link).

I'd also add some diagonal bracing from your posts for a little bit of added security.

Alternately, if you could live with the post being 3" in from the corner, you could run full length right to the roof by carriage bolting the ledgers to the outsides of the post. (This will require a bit of fiddling with the deck boards, but it strikes me as a more elegant solution.)


How far can I move my bath tub trap from the vent?

It depends on the diameter of the trap.  Under International Building Code use table 906.1.

A 1.5" trap can be 6 feet from the vent (if your trap is only 1.25" the maximum distance is 5 feet).

It looks like you should be fine in your situation.


Ceiling light fixture wires - entirely in box?

There is going to be some of the wire loose above the cover to allow the fixture to be wired 410.20. I don't see a specific length listed in section 410 (luminaries, lamp holders & lamps). Installing the fixture per the manufacturers instructions is the key because there are so many diferent types code doesn't always give specific requirements. An example of this would be a 4" canopie or shell may only need 6" of free wire to be able to make the connections but a 12" canopie or shell may require 8-10" to make the connections. Hope this helps.


Can you use a router like a saw to cut wood?

It's entirely possible, and often reasonable. Without going as far as buying a CNC router (handy, but expensive) simple jigs and sleds permit cutting precisely circular holes (eat your heart out, jigsaws) and precisely straight edges (like a tablesaw with no need to use a jointer afterwards - indeed, many people with tablesaws use a router jig to joint boards if they don't also have a giant jointer.) A different sort of sled allows a router to act as a surface planer, as well, and a variant allows use as a curved surface planer.

There are, of course, compromises. You give up more waste in "saw" kerf. You may need to take multiple cuts at increasing depth or you risk overloading, bogging down, and snapping the bit.

From personal experience, you don't want a low-quality router with poor bearings. This is a tool where cheap can be expensive and expensive can be cheap. And it is certainly true that having more money in router bits than even a good router costs is perfectly normal.


Moen two handle bathroom faucet - new cartridges but still drip

There is probably some hard water deposits inside the valve where the cartridge O rings and seal make contact. The slightest deposit will break the seal and you'll have a drip. Get some fine emery paper and gently clean out the valve making sure it's totally smooth inside. Then get some plumber's grease, coat the cartridge and reinstall. Hopefully you didn't damage the O rings inserting the cartridge the first time.


Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter vs AFCI

What can happen...

If you look closely at the way many AFCIs behave, they will trip on a gross ground fault. This is no accident; instead, they rely on this behavior to catch arcs-to-ground specifically (it's the same reason IEC systems use RCD protection panelwide).  The converse of that is that an arc-to-ground will trip a GFCI as well. This is one reason why Ground Fault Protection of Equipment (GFPE) is called for by certain parts of the NEC -- GFPE devices are like GFCIs, only with a higher trip threshold (30mA or 100mA vs. the 6-10mA of a GFCI), and are only seen in breaker form due to their limited scope of usage.

But, you still need AFCI

However, the discussion above does not cover arcs between hot and neutral.  These arcs will not trip a GFCI or a regular breaker, since they simply bypass the normal load path at a level too low for a normal breaker to trip on, and are why AFCIs were originally developed.  These use electronics to "listen" for the broadband radio-frequency signature (snap crackle pop) created by arcs, and distinguish harmless arcs (from switching action, hot-plugging of receptacles, light-bulb burnouts, or the commutating of motor brushes) from hazardous ones.


How do I patch a subfloor over a return duct cavity

Cut pieces of 2/4 screw them from your floor put a patch of 3/4 inch wood screw it to the 2/4 floor is rigid enough not to flex tile right on top the more screws the better


(mild) Soap and water, sure.

Don't use WD-40. It isn't a lubricant. Instead, look for white lithium grease. You can get it in a spray can with one of those small straw like things to put it exactly where you want it.


Can I install a garden chiminea in a wooden shed?

I love these garden fireplaces, but think you would be wise to keep it outdoors as it was designed for.  In my humble opinion, the fact that it is an open flaming device with flames viewable 360 degrees, it would be very dangerous to have it indoors. Sparks and embers could easily escape the enclosure with a draft from a door or window. As far a a flue is concerned, any flue passing through a combustible wall needs to be installed in a collar that insulates the hot chimney pipe from the walls, or a special double or triple wall insulated pipe and collar should be used.  Looking at your pic, it appears the chimney is tapered for cosmetic appeal. This type of pipe may not match up with standard flue pipe sizes.  There are clearance regulations for wood burning stoves, both the actual stove and flue components. There are also regulations and approval codes on indoor stoves, which I would guess are not on your outdoor fireplace.
I would encourage you to read the following: http://www.nfpa.org/catalog/TOC/211-13-toc.html


I solved a similar problem (cat scratching a low screen) by attaching a piece of clear acrylic plastic to the frame, just high enough to prevent damage, and still allowing ventilation through the upper part of the screen. I would guess 8 - 10 inches across the bottom would be sufficient to guard against string trimmers.

My frame was wood, so drilling some holes for screws was easy. Might be harder if you have aluminum. Also, the cut edge of the acrylic was not especially nice looking.


Is this normal for the brick to extend past the concrete slab foundation?

Back in the day, at least my day, the building code allowed for a maximum of a 1" corbel (extention).

I do not see any cracks in the photo that suggests shifting has occurred.

If there is a basement or maybe not, while the foundation is laid, or in the case of concrete, while it is poured, the top of the wall can rack out of square. The break between the lower wall and the upper gives the chance to re-square the walls. This may be a symptom of that.


How to verify electrical box is secured strong enough for 16# ceiling fan?

Okay, stop.  The 10-32 screw requirement is for the lower screws which attach the fan to the box, not the upper screws which attach the box to the wood.   You can see the holes that the 10-32 screws go into, in those tiny squares to left and right of your photo.

It's entirely possible those squares do something clever, like capture a nut.  But they are designed to do a good job taking a 10-32.

I don't know if the kit comes with special, hardened #10-32s.  Suffice it to say I bet you haven't lived for years with this mess on your ceiling, so the magic screws probably secured the old lamp.  Go get them back.  If that means digging in the trash, let that be a lesson not to throw away things before the job is done.

Other than that, what makes them "magical" is probably their carefully chosen length.

DO NOT REPLACE THE DRYWALL SCREWS WITH 10-32

The 10-32 requirement doesn't refer to those!

These screws need to be strong enough to carry 16 pounds and the box.  Drywall screws will do the job, but I would convert to deck screws (a wee bit thicker) if they are the same thread pitch.

Lay the screw threads so they touch, and see if the threads have the same spacing.  Oh yeah, feel free to unscrew one of the drywall screws at a time to evaluate it - not both at once. The stiffness of unscrewing it will also tell you something about how thick the wood is.  If it gets easier as you back it out, that tells you the wood is pretty thick.

Alternately, I would pre-drill small holes in the two remaining locations, and fit the deck screws there.  You must pre-drill!  The deck screws will certainly go in if you don't pre-drill, but they will likely also split the wood right down the line of the screws - and then none of the screws will have any gripping power at all.


Personally, given those two options, the size of the area, and the children, I would go with the pro-grade (Bissell).

Why?

Area: You plan to carpet clean a large area. The commercial/pro-grade carpet cleaners have an advantage here in their tank capacity which means fewer trips to fill and dump water.
Warranty: Heavy duty items tend to have longer warranties because they are generally built to withstand more use. The Bissell's warranty is 5 years versus the 2 year Hoover.
Satisfaction: The Bissell's overall review is a good deal better than the Hoover's.

Factors that might make you want the non-pro-grade cleaner instead:

Weight: Pro-grade clears will be heavier than the regular cleaners. They normally have large wheels at the back so you can take them up steps, but that is not as convenient  as a light weight model. So, if you have any sort of limitation in regards to lifting, the pro model may not be right for you.
Cost: Pro-grade models are always more expensive up-front. In the long run, you hope it's cheaper, but warranties and product life are a bit of a gamble.


What does the "lip" of a toilet bowl mean?

The part under the seat is called the BOWL  the space where water and other stuff goes down the drain is called the FLUSH PASSAGE

Now i doubt there is a technical name further than that and In the building trade we always set a toilet on the Bowls Base, so the top will be the Bowl Head( which in your case is what you are referring to as the "Lip") and on the head you mount the Seat.

EDIT

What you have circled is called the toiled mounting. The screw you use is called a mounting screw and the mounting screw holds the Toiled base via the toilet mounting to a floor flange.Sometimes in between the base and the flange you can have a leak pan connected to another waste pipe.

If you have any more doubts.. please research this interesting document.


I did more research on this topic and decided to go with CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) inside a PVC conduit.  All material is available at Home Depot.
Good references are propane101.com and homeflex.com
BTW, I don't have a natural gas line in my home.


There are really two reasons to rake a roof (snow weight and ice dams), and there are two reasons not to rake (effort and roofing damage).
Raking to reduce snow weight
If you're concerned that the weight of accumulated snow will exceed load design limits, by all means pull some snow off. You don't want a collapse. This is a rare situation in northern climates, though, as snow loads are expected and accommodated in modern construction. Talk to your neighbors about how much snow is concerning. Take an average between the Chicken Little and the Couldn't Care Less types.
Raking to resolve or prevent ice dams
Whether you rake for ice dams depends on a number of factors, such as attic insulation and ventilation, sun exposure, and weather conditions. You'll have to make a judgement call on that for a given situation.
If you have an ice dam problem, removing the snow from the lower portion of the roof may help. By removing snow from the area that's melting you prevent dams from forming. If snow is melting due to inadequate insulation, and most of the heat lost from the home transfers through the roof down low, clearing that area may resolve the issue.
It may also relocate the problem, as has been suggested. Dams occur where ice has melted and re-frozen. If the snow is insulating the roof surface, allowing melting to occur due to heat from below, the dam may occur just below the new lower edge of the snow.
Raking is hard work and damages roofing
All that said, raking is hard work. You'll get a six pack. It also will damage your shingles if you're not extremely careful--those corners have a tendency to punch through the snow on occasion. Over time you'll scrape away the protective ceramic granules and weaken the shingles. They'll curl and crack before they otherwise would have. Raking is to be avoided unless truly necessary.


Should my mirror fog up when showering with a proper exhaust fan running?

Depends on:

The location of the fan relative to the shower and the mirror
The effectiveness of the fan
The air temperature in the room
The initial relative humidity of the room
The temperature and volume of the shower steam
The length of the shower
HVAC conditions
Window configuration (sunlight and airflow)

The bottom line is that it might, but it doesn't much matter as long as the fan is run long enough to reduce humidity after each shower. In my case (Minnesota), this means an hour in the winter and at least two in the summer (though maybe less when air-conditioning is active). A digital timer switch is very helpful.


How to enlarge a 4 in. vent hole on exterior wall

Buy a 5" holesaw (and a drill sturdy enough to drive it). Cut a 5" hole in a big chunk of plywood. Screw/nail/clamp the plywood in the place where you want the hole. Drill away.

If you're having a hard time with the drill binding and trying to twist your wrist off, run it in reverse. It's much slower, but you won't have the same problem.

Couple more tips: Once you've started the cut, drill a few 1/4" holes in the cut ring to help clear sawdust. Pull the holesaw out regularly to clear the sawdust that collects on the teeth.


You're going to need two tools to do this and two specialty blades. A diamond cut-off disc to make the majority of the cut attached to a grinder. And you'll need a diamond (if available) or carbide-tipped oscillator bit and the corresponding oscillating tool ( sometimes called a multi-tool). For the majority of the cut you will use that diamond cut off disc with a wet sponge, a very wet sponge touching the blade obviously being very careful. Due to the diameter of the diamond disc you can't get right into the corners that's where the oscillating tool comes in handy. The oscillator will allow you to complete the cut right to the edge and then you can remove the tiles as required.

If you don't own these tools they should be available for rent but as a do-it-yourselfer both an oscillator and a grinder are essential.


Toilet fill value hissing and dripping after it reaches the stopping level.

The toilet fill valve inside the unit is failing.  Now, what to do?

If by chance I had the packaging or documentation from the last time I replaced it, or there's a make/model visible on the valve assembly, I'd see if I could find a replacement washer set.  Some fill valves are easily repairable (if you can find the correct replacements).  Many aren't, so I wouldn't spend time worrying if this isn't true.
If I didn't have that and it seemed to be a "standard" toilet, I'd check at the home improvement store for a replacement fill valve assembly.  In most toilets, replacement isn't very difficult.  Drain the tank, unscrew the line from the tank, unscrew the nut holding the valve in place, and replace.  The only tricky part is that there's no completely standard assembly.  While most standard toilets will be easy to replace, there are some odd bits out there.  But this tends to be a pretty inexpensive part for a DIY repair (probably around $20).  Just keep all the old parts around in case you get to the end of the assembly and find the new part doesn't fit for some reason.
If you have a custom toilet (very low profile, odd tank shape, etc.), I'd take several good photos of the assembly and go to a plumbing supply house.  Ask them if they can identify the unit and suggest a replacement.


Latex paint dried and thickened, can I still use it for a touch up?

Latex paint can generally be thinned with plain water... but I'd test with a very small quantity and a piece of scrap wood first.  If you can't get a good consistency, there are thinners made specifically for latex - SCL-Sterling makes one called Thin-X Latex that I used a while back, with good results.


LED lights with a dim light in open circuit

What you are seeing is the effect of Stray Voltage caused by capacitive coupling.  Electricians refer to this sometimes as Phantom Voltage.

  Ungrounded metal objects close to electric field sources such as neon signs or conductors carrying alternating currents can have measurable voltage levels caused by capacitive coupling. Since voltages detected by high-impedance instruments disappear or become greatly reduced when a low impedance is substituted, the effect is sometimes called phantom voltage (or ghost voltage). The term is often used by electricians, and might be seen, for example, when measuring the voltage at a lighting fixture after removing the bulb. It is not unusual to measure phantom voltages of 50–90 volts when testing the wiring of ordinary 120 V circuits with a high-impedance instrument.

Sections bolded by me

The voltage you read with a common multimeter can change depending on how the wire is run, how long it is, etc, but you will usually be able to measure some voltage even when a light switch is turned off.  If you connect even a tiny resistor between the phantom hot and neutral, the voltage will disappear.  It is very, very low amperage and can't be felt or do any work.

Very simple LED bulbs that have the bare minimum of driver components can be illuminated by this voltage because they are very low power devices.  LED bulbs that look more like regular light bulbs from major manufacturers have complex circuits to drive them and they typically will not show any glow.


I have found that trying to plant grass in a struggling area is a lost cause.  I have gone with mulch and hostas anymore, or ground cover.


they can not share one chimney vent because your old furnace vented thru metal sheet duct(high temp dry flue) , your hi-effiency water heater vented thru PVC 636 (wet flue)


Does anything look wrong with this Furnace burner start up?

First off I did not see anything in the video to make me think there was a cracked heat exchanger. The heat exchanger may be cracked but the video does not indicate so. It seems that removing the inlet pipe fixed the problem? The furnace installation instructions has vent tables showing what size pipe can be used for various lengths and amount of elbows. For instance a 90,000 btu furnace can have a maximum of 70’ of pipe and 4 elbows with 3” pipe but only 20’ of pipe and 4 elbows with 2” pipe. And this is combined for both pipes, not for each pipe. So adding the second pipe may have pushed you over the limit. This furnace comes with a restriction plate that must be installed if using only 1 vent but must be removed if using 2 vents. Was it removed? And in my experience these tables are often over generous. I have pushed the limits of the tables and have had venting problems. I had to either increase pipe size or reduce the amount of elbows or both.


How can I improve solid, plastered walls with minimal mess and cost?

You could overlay with 1/4" gypsum, and finish as you would any other gypsum board wall. Still messy, but you would permanently fix the problem. 1/4" gypsum can even be applied with adhesives, and improves the sound transmission of the wall.


Where is the grounding in this fixture box

There are 3 twisted together copper wires up there that you can see in
the photo.

Yes the bare copper wires are the ground wires.
You will connect the ground from your fixture to them. It appears there at least 3 of them so you will need a larger wire nut, a red one for 3 wires or a green one for 4 wires. (Wire nuts are color coded by size, you will probably need the green)

Or is the fixture itself grounded?

Fixtures are only grounded when they are connected to the grounding of the electrical system of the building.
Twist on wire connectors Wiki.
Per Ed Beal's comment:
It difficult to see if the box is connected to the ground wires. If not you can use the Greenie, it a green wire nuts with a hole in it for a single wire. That single wire can then be attached to a screw on the box. You can find YouTube videos on how to use them.
If a metal box is grounded as it should be then depending on how the fixture is set up it will determine how the ground connection is completed. You may need to attach the ground wire from the fixture to a screw in the box or it may have its ground wire connected to its mounting bar and that bar will be touching the metal box, thereby making the ground connection.


KDW60X16 Dishwasher - Not Pumping Water (Wash Pump)

You show a picture of yourself holding the smoking gun (if smoking guns can be wet): the wash pump impeller. Replace it, and you should be fine.


Are large radiators supposed to be colder?

You don't think it needs bleeding - but have you tried? 99.9% of the time, that is the problem with water-type radiators and low heat delivery; lack of flow due to trapped air bubbles.

As a general rule, larger radiators do make more effective use of lower temperature water, but that does not seem to be your situation since you are evidently looking for more heat.

A noticeable stratification of the water temperature is not a good sign that things are circulating effectively, so I would draw the opposite conclusion that you have.


How to cut in paint on a TALL wall left of a stair case

Around stairs you either learn to work with pole-attached tools (corner foam wheel might do what you need) or you will be renting or purchasing some elaborate staging, or you will be finding that the elaborate staging would have been a lot cheaper and much less trouble than the trip to the emergency room or morgue.

Admittedly the latter isn't much trouble for you, personally, at that point...

If it's hard to reach it's also hard for nit-pickers to examine closely and whine about the quality of the paint job up there.


Using screws to install a set of french doors?

I've installed four or five doors, and I exclusively use screws. And had to do exactly what you mention: Needed an adjustment and pulled it out.

Just make sure you're pre-drilling, especially through shims.

Edit: To avoid seeing the screw holes after, one trick is to put the screws underneath the stop trim. Steel exterior doors usually have a fabric/rubber magnetic strip attached to the stop trim, which ensures a full seal with the door. The screws go under this. Interior doors often requires you to attach the stop trim yourself, giving you ample opportunity to put the screws in the right place.


60 amp single phase sub-panal from 3phase panel without Neutral

Alright your question is all over the place. Let me try to figure this out.
You have a three phase panel. The different legs are all 120V when measured to ground. But if you measure between any leg to another leg you have 208V. In that panel you have no neutral wire. Just three hots and a ground? You cannot just say that the voltage was 120V on the bus bar without saying what you measured it to (to another leg or ground or what?)

Are you sure this is a three phase panel. The 208V measured from Hot to Hot indicates that it is but do you know how to tell? 3 phase is usually only found in commercial and industrial sites. Not in houses.

What is this box that the white wire goes into thats adjacent to the pole? Does the power go from the outside overhead lines, to a meter base (where power is measured and reported to power authority?) and than to your three phase panel?

Are you now trying to make your own 60A single phase sub panel from your three phase panel? I am still not sure if you understand how 3 phase works/is. We can help you but you need to be more clear.

I am not sure what PE wire is and I am not sure if you are talking about the main service conductors here when you are wondering. But XLPE has a clear almost like shrink tubing around it. If you were to scratch the outside of the individual cable it would sort of rip the outside. Kind of like it had scotch tape on the outside and you scratched it ripping some up. It should also say in writing on the cable XLPE if you can see any writing.

Balancing your panel just means putting the same amount of power on each phase if you can. So if you had 3 big assed air compressors, you would try to put one compressor on Phase A, one compressor on Phase B and one compressor on Phase C. (Or on Phase A+B, Phase B+C and Phase C+A if they are 208V). Do you see. So you just try to evenly space your big loads if you can. The smaller loads you don't need to worry about as much. But if you were doing a sub panel you would put the sub panel on a leg that doesn't have very many big loads on it in the main panel.

If you have two 60 breakers than on a short would trip the breaker that responds the best. Thats anybodies guess. Is your main panel a 60 A breaker and you would like your sub panel to be 60A? Or is the load your adding 60A and the main breaker is only 60A?

Yes you can use 2, 90 degree elbows together. Depending on your cable size it could be hard to pull through if you did them back to back. If you could put a short strait section between them it would be better. Would 2, 45 degree angles work in this application. Its not as harsh on the corners to pull through. Unless your cable is small compared to the pipe and than it shouldn't matter to much either way.

So you are missing tons of information. Let us know.


How can I "seal up" cracks in my wooden shed between wooden slats/floorboards?

Just lay some tongue-and-groove OSB plywood on top of the planks.

For a 6x8 shed, you should only need two 4x8 sheets - which should certainly cost a lot less than the £120 you would pay for sealer.

Or for that matter, just have them use T&G plywood for the flooring in the first place.


How were 240V (split phase) appliances safely fused before 2 pole breakers?

For overcurrent faults, it was simply considered an acceptable risk in most cases...
For many 240V and 120/240V devices, such as large appliances and heaters, the risk of the device being still "live" if an overcurrent fault was present was considered acceptable then, as the fault would not be fed power from the other leg.  The only case where it could be is if the circuit had multiple loads of different voltages (L-L, L-N, L-L-N, 3P/3P+N) on it, and that situation is generally rare, even today.
Also, as Ed mentions, controls for single-phase 240V heaters and such often only switched one hot wire.  This was, and is, acceptable because the control means isn't considered a disconnect in this case, and may not even have an "off" position or function to begin with.
...but in the cases where it wasn't, it was dealt with differently
However, the above logic fails to hold for one very important class of devices, albeit a class not found often in houses: polyphase motors.  In a three-phase motor circuit, if a single phase fuse blows due to a fault, the motor will continue to run on the remaining phases, drawing more current from them while back-energizing the fault in the fashion of a rotary phase converter.  Worse yet, the types of fuses commonly used then were not as refined as today's models, and thus could not be as easily sized to provide overload protection for a stalled motor.
Enter the electrical circuit protection device that no residential electrician ever sees: the motor overload relay.  These devices are sensitive overload (but not short-circuit) protectors that break the control circuit when opened, and are connected in series with the motor's control contactor and a manual disconnecting means in industrial applications that use separately protected motors, forming a motor starter stack.  The motor control centers found in plants and other industrial-ish buildings consist of "buckets" that contain a motor starter and local control devices for that motor; a more sophisticated system might have a cable running off to a PLC or control panel for the machinery that motor is part of.
Because these devices are set for the specific motor they are used with, they can be set up to be much more protective than fuses were back then.  Poly-phase overloads also provide a common-trip type of functionality that opens the control contact when an overload is sensed in any phase, thus disconnecting the motor entirely and preventing "single phasing" as could happen with fuse-only protection schemes.  In addition, the controls on such a motor would be set up for an "undervoltage release" that prevents the motor from restarting automatically if the power "blips" out, preventing injurious surprises from unexpected machine restarts and further mitigating against single-phasing of the motor from a blown fuse.
Note that domestic "bare motor" applications, and just about all appliances, use motors that have the thermal protector built into the motor, which is why you don't see such elaborate motor protection and control setups in homes and appliances.  A few very old setups may have used manual motor starters, which are essentially a combination of a lightswitch and an overload coil that can turn the lightswitch off if the connected motor is overloaded.  These are rarely used, though, as they do not provide any facility for automatic or remote control of the motor in question.
Disconnecting was handled via pullouts or safety switches
Of course, none of this helps you when you're trying to turn the darn thing OFF to work on it, or change a blown fuse for that matter.  This requires an all-pole switching means to be present at the fuses, and this took the form of either a pullout disconnect or a fusible safety switch.  Both are still made and used today, even, despite the ubiquity of circuit breakers nowadays.
Pullouts are easy
Pullout disconnects are simple devices at heart, consisting of a line and a load set of switch jaws, mounted to an insulating base and connected by a pullout plug that contains mating sets of blades connected either by busbars or by fuseholders + cartridge fuses.  The base has sidewalls that guide the plug in and out as it's installed and removed, resulting in a simple, inexpensive, yet surprisingly reliable disconnect for low-usage applications.  This is part of why they have persisted to this day for air conditioner maintenance disconnects, but their low cost and ease of procurement also are good for applications such as branch-circuit disconnecting for outbuildings.
If you're wondering where all those old knife switches went, though...
The other type of fused switch commonly used in light-to-medium duty applications (I'm omitting heavy-duty creatures like bolted pressure switches from this discussion) is what is called an enclosed safety switch, or simply "safety switch" for short.  They are the direct descendants of the old, open-blade mains knife-switches of Victorian days, simply with the blades wrapped in a box that has an operating handle on the outside, hence the name "safety switch" since you can't poke their conducting bits with your finger unless you make a concerted effort to do so.  You can still buy them, as well; while they are more expensive than a pullout switch, they are available with much higher current ratings, and in a variety of enclosure types, allowing their use in a wide variety of commercial and industrial applications.


What is this in my electrical box? Can I attach my ground wire onto this screw? Will it be securely grounded?

That screw holds down the cable clamp, which is anchoring your BX cables into the box.  I have seen it used for grounds but it's not ideal at all.

Push the wires around in the back of the box and look for a hole that is somewhat smaller than the others.   This may be tapped #10-32, if so it is specifically for a ground screw.   They sell #10-32 ground screws plated green, either with or without integrated pigtails.


How to fix a house window that falls out?

There doesn't appear to be too much holding them in at the best of times. Unless you want to replace the entire window you should look at getting the top and bottom sills (or whatever they're called where you are) straight. From your description I would say that there is a pretty significant difference in the opening when measured at the edges and the middle. That shouldn't be the case at all.

Remove the trim from at least the top and bottom of the window frame and shim the top and bottom as required until you have a nice even distance all the way across. Then replace the trim and touch up the paintwork as required.


What size feeder do I need for a basement electrical subpanel?

National Electrical Code says that for general lighting and receptacle circuits, you can use 3 volt-amperes per square foot to calculate the load. However, the square footage is calculated from the outside dimensions of the floor area. So when calculating the area, don't forget to include the wall thickness.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection
Article 220 Branch-Circuit Feeder, and Service Calculations
220.82 Dwelling Unit.
(B) General Loads. The general calculated load shall be not less than 100 percent of the first 10 kVA plus 40 percent of the remainder of the following loads:
(1) 33 volt-amperes/m2 or 3 volt-amperes/ft2 for general lighting and general-use receptacles. The floor area for each floor shall be calculated from the outside dimensions of the dwelling unit. The calculated floor area shall not include open porches, garages, or unused or unfinished spaces not adaptable for future use.

Let's say you're going to be servicing a 1300 square foot area with the panel, and it sounds like you're only planning for 120 volt general lighting and receptacle circuits. The load would be calculated as follows:
3 volt-amperes * 1300 sq.ft. = 3900 VA
3900 VA / 120 Volts = 32.5 amperes
In this scenario, you'd be able to use a 40 ampere double pole breaker in the main panel, and 8 AWG copper or 6 AWG aluminum conductors to feed the panel. However, you may want to leave room for future expansion, so the minimum might not be what you're looking for.
You may in fact want to use a 60 ampere double pole breaker, and 6 AWG copper or 4 AWG aluminum conductors. Even though you only need half that capacity, the cost difference might be worth it if you want the option for future expansion.


I have overseen the install of, and eventually tuned up a set of sliders that were 5 sections of glass panels 8 ft each. 2 of the panels, one at each end, were stationary, the other 3 were operable. Each panel weighed about 500 lbs each with 1 3/4" thick insulated glass panels. The wood frame was about 3" thick. The hardware was lift-slide hardware The link is to the manufacturer that was used on this job, sorry the pic is crappy. It was shot from a long ways away.

The screen doors are in the way of the glass panels, but they are huge.

The point is I am trying to make with this is you don't need to use a glass door to do this with, although you can. It could very easily be a full wood panel as well.

The pic below shows another door system I did install from scratch, but the only picture I have that really shows anything, shows the bottom track and the panels. There are 6 panels in this wall (a different job than the other pic) 2 stationary and 4 operable. These doors were much lighter.


What alternatives are there for basement post footings besides concrete?

A bed of gravel under 3' 6x6 sleepers or a triple stack of 2x10s should do fine. As Steve Foutz said, you're looking for surface area, and it has to be something that won't flex into a banana under load.


Decrease dust in an old house, forced air

i would suggest having an HVAC contractor visit to examine all of your ductwork.  My guess would be there are wholes, gaps, or rips in the ducts whereupon the system in operation is pulling the dust in from wall cavities, basement or attic (depending on where the ductwork runs).  Once the contractor (or yourself) seals up and/or replaces any ductwork then you could consider having them vacuumed out.  Also, you should probably put this high on your priority list because interior air quality is really important for controlling allergies and general health.  Good luck!


Is there any benefit to using outdoor faucet covers if the water to them is shut off?

Metal pipes conduct heat very well.
You have another question indicating that you have been insulating pipes.
If a pipe is insulated from the warmth in the house and has a turned off hose bibb sticking out into -10F weather, it's far more likely to freeze if that hose bibb is not insulated from the -10F weather.
In any case, given all your other posts about insulating the house, even if the pipes don't freeze here's a heat leak that's easy to fix that you'll be paying for even if it does not freeze the pipes.


Carrier Central Air Conditioner Model 38CKC042-340 with 35/5 instead of 40/5

Should be fine if you replaced a factory part with a part of the same size and configuration.


Can a dimmer switch be on the same circuit with outlets?

Yes. As all devices are connected in parallel there's no relationship between the switch and the outlets. In fact, You'd be lucky to find a dimmer switch that isn't on the same circuit as some outlets. It's quite common.
You're correct that it's not legal or safe to use the dimmer to control the outlets, though. That can lead to low-voltage/high-current conditions and device failure or fire.


Your compressor is not working, because you're connecting it to a 120 volt circuit. According to the nameplate on the equipment, you should be connecting it to a 240 volt 20 ampere circuit.


Just figured it out. For cheaper drawers, there is a single screw on the inside of the drawer. Remove that screw from both sides to detach the drawer from the metal sliders on each side.