At 3” I would mix up a batch with turkey grit much larger than sand but smaller than pea gravel. I have used this mix to level garages that had a similar slope to the door when making them a living space.
The existing floor needs to be clean and I would do a heavy etch of muriatic acid and water. After rinsing I would put down an adhesion promoter then start your pour.  I have done this by hand mixer Several times but one case I did get what I needed on a short load , much easier, I did have to wait a few extra days but it was worth it!  only a yard and a half but hand mixing the start is almost set by the time you finish So it takes 3 or that’s how we did it 1 person on the mixer the other two raking & floating. But we did this close to a dozen times to add living space.


You don't need to remove all of the wallpaper, but you will need to expose the paint so it can be swabbed / tested. Looking online, you can just make a small slice through the wallpaper / paint and swab your test kit that way. Other test kits may need more paint exposed, in which case you'd just remove a small section of the wallpaper.


This appears to be the plumbing for your water heater - as such, while there are shutoff valves for the cold into the heater and the hot out of the heater, the cold running to your various fixtures (and to here - the main water shutoff) is almost certainly somewhere else.

The water shutoff valves here are the red and blue metal handles that are shaped somewhat like:

-\_/-

Turn them 90 dgrees so the handles are out of line with the pipes they are on, not in line with them to shut off - reverse to turn on.

Check your water heater manual to see if you need to shut it down before turning the water off. That's pretty common.

The other red and blue handles near them appear to be for some sort of flushing procedure with the capped ports near them.


I have a Harbor Breeze ceiling fan and lights. I can't find bulbs that work

Candelabra is a type of lamp base (the screwey thing at the bottom).  It is the second most common after Edison E27. They are widely supported and are readily available in LED at prices comparable to E27 (unlike less common sizes, where they come at a premium).

You shouldn't have any trouble finding such bulbs at places that sell Harbor Breeze fans.  If that fails, try Ikea.


How to waterproof our existing "lower ground" floor

The only effective way to waterproof a masonry wall is from the outside - so if your alternatives are to coat the inside of it or run the water elsewhere, run the water elsewhere, as coating the inside is doomed to failure.

If the coating is on the exterior and the water is trying to get in, the water pressure holds the coating in place. If the coating is on the inside, the water pressure will pop it off, sooner or later. If the waterproofing was not put in place as the wall was built, on the dirt-facing side, it's probably never going to work - or it won't work for long.


Can't tell from looking at the picture you posted but it looks like a finned tube hot water baseboard unit. Do you heat your house with a hot water boiler and if not can you elaborate. If I am right and that is a hot water unit, the installer recessed the enclosure into the wall and mounted it directly onto the wall studs. I never liked that type of installation and would prefer the unit to be mounted on top of the finished wall.
Finned tube baseboard has aluminum fins, usually 4-5 per inch slid on a copper tube. Looking at the picture it looks like the fins could use a good cleaning with a shop vac and a very soft brush. The fins are very delicate and sharp so be careful. As far as the outer cover you could refinish as you wish. As far as replacing them, that would be a major project probably left to an HVAC company.


You can usually find the last outlet because it only has 1 set of wires, and then work backwards towards the breaker panel is often logical, there are also specialty tools that can measure voltage drop across each of the receptacles and make an educated guess at the first receptacle that has the lowest voltage drop
https://youtu.be/16KObgI44UE?t=286


Does cellulose insulation require open windows for venting?

You ideally want your attic to be the same temperature and humidity as the outdoors. By sealing, you almost certainly are making the space warmer and more humid. In hot climates, this could cause your roof to get to hot and reduce the lifespan. In cold climates, the attic could stay or get above freezing, cause melt, and refreeze at the edge causing water dams.


plaster boarding an existing ceiling and locating pipes and electrics

Find the joist at each end and snap a chalk line so you know where to put your screws. The national electric code requires wires to be 1-1/4 away from the edges so you should be fine putting screws in along the line. If you hit a spot the screw wont go in there may be a metal plate protecting the wires that are two close and sheetrock screws will not punch through the plates if there or metal pipe.


if this combo can be hooked up with the existing setup,..?

The answer to this question is NO

The box only contains a source or hot leg down to the switch and a switch leg back to the light fixtures. You will need to install a neutral and a ground into the box. Updated NEC now requires neutrals to be installed in boxes unfortunately your dwelling did not.

Hope this helped.


Inground Conduit Box for Driveway Snow Melting

If in only 1 pipe is there a derate for the number of current carrying  conductors? In the U.S. I would be using thhn/thwn wire, but with 25 amp actual draw I would need to upsize the wire to #8 because 125% of 25 is 31.25a . 1-1/2 rigid pvc would allow 18 #8 , i would not try to pull multi conductor cables through conduit it costs more and is not needed since you are running conduit. Thhn/thwn wire is rated for wet locations and would cost less than NMWU. And as Isherwood mentioned since the splices are going to be below grade they need to be listed for wet / direct burial.
On a side note are you going to put insulation under the mats? It will really help with power consumption that is going to be an expensive way to melt the ice and snow.


Old radiant heat ceiling not cooperating, looking for ways to fix it myself

Because they DO heat, I think that the problem is not in the heaters themselves, but in their thermostat or thermostat's probe.

What you need to do is to disconnect the heater element itself (the one on the ceiling) and connect a lightbulb (a real, incandescent bulb) in it's place. This way you can begin analyzing on when the panels are on and what to do to make them off, starting with what breaker they're on.

Your second step should be to map the entire system. Trace the wires, eg by switching off all breakers except the one controlling heater and tracing them with contactless voltage detector. The system must have 2 elements at least (heater and thermostat controlling it), but it can be much more sophisticated; eg thermostat can have remote probe or remote knob and the heating element can be controlled indirectly via a contactor. As you've said you've disconnected the thermostat, a stuck contactor is very likely cause.  Replacing it is quite straightforward operation, IF you can locate and access it.

Another but radical solution is to ditch the old control system altogether and keep only the heaters themselves (of course AFTER confirming they work on mains voltage directly and old control system isn't doing some tricky power conversion). Then you get a brand new thermostat and a contactor(s) and set them up using new wiring at best. Probably best way do to new wiring is to keep the contactor in or near the breaker box and run two separate sets of wiring - one set (live and neutral for single phase / L1-N-L2 in case of 2phase / neutral + 3 live in case of 3phase) of power wires to the heaters controlled by the contactor and another set of control wires (live and neutral to power the thermostat + one live control wire back from the thermostat to drive the contactor - "control" but still operating on mains) to the thermostat. Or some fancy digital wireless system that would save you the wiring for the thermostat.


How can I remove a potent smell from leather?

Cigarette stench is a bad one - good luck, you'll need it. I would have moved on to a different sale, personally.

You could try using saddle soap (buy it at a tack shop) and scrubbing the surface down. Follow the instructions on the can. Might need to repeat 3-4 times.

If there's a fabric bottom, remove, discard, and replace it.

You might also consider replacing the stuffing, if its permeated deeply.


While I can't speak to your specific situation, in many jurisdictions the electrician is required by local law to install the wiring, leaving the electrical boxes open and without installing outlets, fixtures, and switches. This allows the electrical inspector to check out the wiring (size, number of wires, proper mounting) before the system is closed up. This is called rough-in inspection. Only after you get this preliminary approval is the electrician allowed to mount outlets, switches, etc.

This approach also allows the electrician to check out the continuity of the wiring before he adds devices that may complicate the testing.

Whether this is the case in your jurisdiction depends on local law.


How can I prevent aluminum window frames from heating up when they're in full sun?

Some ideas to try:

Paint the window frames white. This will reflect the light instead of absorbing it.  This might make quite a difference by itself
Cover the frames with XPS foam. On the inside you'd need to cover the foam with drywall or another fire barrier.
Plant a tree or bush near the window to help shade it
Replace the window with a vinyl window.  It's not as hard as it sounds and can definitely be DIY
Install an awning or trellis above the window (Thanks DA01)


The problem was that I had broken one of the Hall sensor wires. In the end I got a new motor. Re-mounting the old one wasn't feasible since I had disassembled it by bending open the rolled/pressed metal enclosure.


There are a number of low VOC finishes on the market.Two are Safecoat Polyureseal BP and Minwax Polycrylic.

They have one problem. If you have a dark finish, they tend to collect in corners and appear white against the dark stain when they dry.


The water powered sump pump, for all intents and purposes, can be considered a second sump pump in parallel with the first, and can be plumbed that way.

They can share a discharge pipe as long as the pipe is rated to carry the load of both pumps running simultaneously.  Even if they should never, in practice, run at the same time, it would be inappropriate to attach both to a discharge pipe that could only handle one at a time.  Most pumps I've run across seem to be installed with larger piping than they absolutely need, though, so you're probably ok combining them.  Be sure to use two check valves, one for each pump, before they combine into the one discharge pipe.


How can I stop kitchen sink caulking from peeling off after a few weeks?

If the plastic sheet you put over the curing caulk formed a vapor seal, the caulk did not cure properly which could make it not adhere and peel.

Curing caulk should be left open to the air to off gas at its natural rate determined primarily by temperature.  As long as the sink is at room temperature this should happen in less than 24 hours.  Do not disturb or splash it within the first 30 minutes.

As long as the counter top is an ordinary material—stone, wood laminate, or composite—it just has to be clean and dry before caulking.

I certainly would expect a professional sink installer to caulk.  Perhaps they refused because one of the counter or sink materials is known not to work?  Oily woods like Rosewood, Ebony, Cumaru, Ipe, etc. are well known to be difficult to glue together.  A solvent can be used just before caulking to improve performance.  See this.


What should I do about a recessed light without a housing?

If the trim kit shown in the comments is all that is there then absolutely yes, it needs a line voltage housing installed first. The kit linked is made to retrofit a Halo H7 housing.


If the water is not hot after the DW has initially filled with water there may be too much cold water in the supply line. Try running the hot water from the sink until it feels hot. (The DW water supply is connected to the sinks Hot water lie).
If the water is still not hot enough (it should be heating to about 140F) it may be the heating element inside at the bottom. You'll need a voltage meter to check resistance of the element.
The E1 error code is (from my search) pump related. Specifically discharge of water cycle. As was stated in a previous answer check the drainage discharge flow. It should appear forceful until the cycle ends.
If not you will need to investigate further. Verify there are no obstructions in the DW drain hose. You can do this easily with a flashlight if th hose is opaque. Shine the light along the back of the hose and look for dark anomalies which indicate a solid mass.
If the hose is clear there may be a problem with the pump or the pump discharge port. This check involves removing the DW and disconnecting the service lines (power and water).
Once removed, flip it upside down to expose the pump. It is a round cylindrical-shaped container on the bottom of the motor attached to a large hose (the drain) and a narrower hose (the discharge hose). You should be able to disconnect both hoses and examine the inside for blockage.


Trap adapter on wall drain rough in - what is this?

That is a 2" tee with a reducing bushing glued into it. You will want a "deep box type escutcheon" which will bell over the fitting and hide it. They look like this:


Is there a special name in the US for round/hollow neoprene door seals like these?

Identification in order, P, Half-Round and Quarter-Round

Referred to as door seal or weatherstrip.

Commonly available for aircraft door seal and older automotive trunk and door weatherstrip.

You can get EPDM variants for home door seal use from WeatherKing or MD.

The larger stuff used in automotive can be obtained by the roll from industrial supplies like Grainger.

The US has largely abandoned this stuff as it's easy to snag, miserable to mount and unless made from EPDM rubber, not long lived in sunlight.

The vinyl clad "V" seals that replace it for door casement sealing need only a narrow saw kerf (hence their other name, "Kerf Seal") to be pushed into for mounting, no weatherstrip cement to get all over the place or peal off tacky tape that quits sticking to the surface so it falls off.

With proper construction so it has full contact and proper compression, it is both air-tight and sound-tight. When worn or damaged, replacement is easy, just gently pull from the slot and press the new strip back in.

You also might search for kerf seal weatherstripping (Amesbury is one such manufacturer) as there are a lot of other cross-sections available that might be more what you're looking for. Having to just cut a slot and have it both readily available and easily replaceable via saw slot is something that will be desirable down the road.


Should I insulate under my cold water tank?

You shouldn't insulate under the tank (unless the loft is fully insulated on the inside of the roof, with reduced but suitable ventilation - highly unlikely given what you've said.  This is to keep the tank from freezing.
The heat rising from the house is enough to keep the tank from freezing in typical southern UK winters (I'm in Cardiff at the moment, and live in Bristol, so share your climate).
The tank should be insulated - so they got that right at least.  This is typically pretty thin insulation and could be topped up. Uninsulated pipes under the tank aren't a big worry.  That air shouldn't get below freezing.  There's a chance they're overflow pipes, or feed/expansion for a stored hot water system if you have one, both of which are less prone to damage from freezing.  I'd insulate them anyway.
What I would do (have done) is form a skirt of insulation around the tank support, so you can't see underneath it.  This will reduce heat loss from the room underneath, and  protect the tank slightly better by holding the warm air under it.  This is a little tricky on the side nearest the hatch in your photos, but some can be stuffed (not tightly) a little way under the tank shelf.
In colder climates and other systems, trace heat sources can be used to protect plumbing in the loft, but prolonged periods below freezing are very rare for us, and tend to be sunny leading to solar gain and a warmer loft.


So I've learned that the poly is fire retardant, but it would be better not to expose it at all and use fireproof boards over all of it, instead.

For the fans, I found a slight water leak on one, and now see that solar attic fans are probably the better route. I will consult an electrician to install some from Lowe's.


Panel without basepan but insulating sheet only.. long term problem?

The insulation is tough and if that is your only concern I would not replace a panel for this reason. Industrial panels have similar insulation on much larger panels think up to 3000 amps at 480 these are the largest panels I currently support and they are many years old and have never had an issue with the buss shorting out.


How do I identify this square light fitting so I can replace the globe

Save yourself a lot of trouble, and purchase an entirely new fixture.
If nothing else you'll get more light out of it (note the rather limited reflector at the back of the luminary).

In our throwaway and style driven world, models change and few companies provide spare parts.


In what year did venting bathroom exhaust out of the house become a code requirement?

This completely depends on your location, and what codes you follow.  The first mention of exhausting to the outdoors I could find in International Residential Code (IRC), was in the 2003 version.

  International Residential Code (IRC) 2003

  Chapter 15 - Exhaust Systems

  SECTION M1506 MECHANICAL VENTILATION

  M1506.2 Recirculation of air. Exhaust air from bathrooms and toilet rooms shall not be recirculated within a residence or to another dwelling unit.

In 2006 the code was moved and updated a bit.

  International Residential Code (IRC) 2006

  Chapter 15 - Exhaust Systems

  SECTION M1501 GENERAL

  M1501.1 Outdoor discharge. The air removed by every mechanical exhaust system shall be discharged to the outdoors. Air shall not be exhausted into an attic, soffit, ridge vent or crawl space.

  Exception: Whole-house ventilation-type attic fans that discharge into the attic space of dwelling units having private attics shall be permitted.

In 2012 they added a reference to another code section.

  International Residential Code (IRC) 2012

  Chapter 15 - Exhaust Systems

  SECTION M1501 GENERAL

  M1501.1 Outdoor discharge. The air removed by every mechanical exhaust system shall be discharged to the outdoors in accordance with Section M1506.2. Air shall not be exhausted into an attic, soffit, ridge vent or crawl space.

  Exception: Whole-house ventilation-type attic fans that discharge into the attic space of dwelling units having private attics shall be permitted.

  SECTION M1506 EXHAUST DUCTS AND EXHAUST OPENINGS

  M1506.2 Exhaust openings. Air exhaust openings shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) from property lines; 3 feet (914 mm) from operable and nonoperable openings into the building and 10 feet (3048 mm) from mechanical air intakes except where the opening is located 3 feet (914 mm) above the air intake. Openings shall comply with Sections R303.5.2 and R303.6.

  Chapter 3 - Building Planning

  SECTION R303 LIGHT, VENTILATION AND HEATING

  R303.5.2 Exhaust openings. Exhaust air shall not be directed onto walkways.

  R303.6 Outside opening protection. Air exhaust and intake openings that terminate outdoors shall be protected with corrosion-resistant screens, louvers or grilles having a minimum opening size of 1/4 inch (6 mm) and a maximum opening size of 1/2 inch (13 mm), in any dimension. Openings shall be protected against local weather conditions. Outdoor air exhaust and intake openings shall meet the provisions for exterior wall opening protectives in accordance with this code.

NOTE: It's possible that this requirement existed prior to the 2003 code version, but I was not able to find it. Also note that this is only one building code, and that others do exist.

Thanks to @HerrBag for making me take a second look at 303.3, it appears there is mention of exhausting to the outside in the 2000 version of IRC.

  International Residential Code (IRC) 2000

  Chapter 3 - Building Planning

  SECTION R303 LIGHT, VENTILATION AND HEATING

  R303.3 Bathrooms. Bathrooms, water closet compartments and other similar rooms shall be provided with aggregate glazing area in windows of not less than 3 square feet (0.279 m²), one–half of which must be openable.

  Exception: The glazed areas shall not be required where artificial light and a mechanical ventilation system are provided. The minimum ventilation rates shall be 50 cfm (23.6 L/s) for intermittent ventilation or 20 cfm (9.4 L/s) for continuous ventilation. Ventilation air from the space shall be exhausted directly to the outside.

Since this is as far back as I've been able to access the IRC (so far), I can only come to the conclusion that it has always been a requirement. At least ever since mechanical ventilation has been an approved bathroom ventilation method.


If the breaker is sized accordingly for the system running on it, then no, it should not be tripping. That said, yes, breakers can wear out. How old is the breaker?

Next question, Does the wiring for the A/C near the box feel warm? It really should not. If it does, I suspect a loose connection or HIGH resistance connection between the A/C and the breaker. It is possible the wiring in the panel is loose, but the HVAC company should have checked that.

Did the old unit trip as well? it is a sign something is wrong with the wiring or the breaker, and if you told the HVAC company that, then they should have checked or one of you called an electrician before connecting the circuit.


What can I use as a concrete release agent for aluminum forms?

I know this is late, but I'm pretty sure you could get away with PAM or grease for releasing aluminum from concrete. Commercial release products are an assortment of commonly used items like mineral oil, or silicon lube, or graphite; less common are metal stearates (like zinc stearate in a can). I have played around with zinc stearate. I still have some that I should proably throw away, since I don't really have a serious need for it.


Clear wood finish with minimal color/sheen change?

It seems like a new finish of any kind is going to be somewhat at odds with a weathered, distressed look.  That said...

A water based urethane finish should change the color less than an oil based one, but there will still be a change.  A final coat of satin sheen finish over the initial coats might be simpler than the steel wool and less likely to change the texture of the distressed wood.  You may want to use fewer than normal coats of finish, or thin the finish so that it doesn't build up as much as one might normally want on a "new" piece of furniture.

Some sample boards would definitely be the way to go here.


Thermocouple keep burning out, is it our gas valve?

This is not necessarily a thermocouple or a gas valve problem, but possibly just a matter of cleaning or adjustment.  Thermocouples generate an extremely weak current which can just barely hold the gas valve open under normal circumstances.  If you recently replaced your thermocouple, odds are good there is a tiny bit of contamination between the new thermocouple contact and the port on the gas valve where it makes an electrical connection.  The contact between these two needs to be very clean to work reliably.

To burn out a new thermocouple in 1-2 weeks, the gas to your pilot would have to be set much too high and/or the position of the thermocouple would need to be very wrong, and even then I doubt it would fail so quickly.  If you have doubts about what is wrong, your best bet may be to call a professional.


Why can I not find a 120V programmable 2-pole thermostat

The problem with starting from a fallacy is that it leads no-where useful.

  The difference between 1 vs. 2 poles involves whether or not the thermostat can truly, completely cut power or not. With 2 poles, all power to the heater can be cut. With 1, the "off setting" is really a very-lower power setting.

Patently false. Incorrect, wrong, and ignorant. A single pole switch. relay, or thermostat will cut all power to a 120V or 240V heater - the reason we don't use single poles for 240V heaters in the USA/Canada power system is only for an extra degree of safety, not because any power magically makes it through an open switch. If you use a single pole switch on a 240V heater in our system, the "switched off" heater would be at 120V relative to ground - it would still be firmly off, not dissipating any power, as no current is flowing, but it would present a slightly higher shock potential, or a much higher shock potential if someone were to open up its connections (believing it to be "off" at the thermostat) without shutting off the breaker for the circuit.

The reason you cannot find the item you seek is that your starting assumptions are incorrect, and there is no need for, and thus no market for, a 120V two-pole thermostat. Properly connected, the hot line is switched, and the neutral is not, and when the switch is open the entire heater is at approximately 0 volts with respect to ground, and thus there is no safety advantage to using a two-pole switch on a 120V heater.

This makes me think of James Thurber's Grandmother who was sure that electricity was leaking out of switched-on sockets with no bulbs in them...


You have to remove the retaining ring, by rotating it anticlockwise.

They make a specialized castle nut wrench for installing/removing them. You should be able to loosen it using a pair of pliers, or screw driver. Though it looks like there might be some damage to the threads, so it might take a bit of effort.

Notice right near the arrow in the image above, that there's a flat spot with no threads.  Place a slotted screwdriver against the ridge of the castle nut, and gently tap the end of the screw driver. Hopefully that will loosen the nut just enough, that you'll be able to get it off by hand.


Can I add an outlet for electronics to a lighting circuit?

No.

There are a few issues here. While what you're doing could in theory safe, the rules are designed so that "what if"s are taken care of. ie. you're installing a socket which could be used for anything, so you have to allow for that.

Sockets now require RCD protection, which you won't have on your lighting circuit.
The rating for the lighting circuit will be lower than a socket circuit.
You're required to terminate a lighting circuit in a suitable fixture. The rules allow for "a suitable power socket", but the implication here is that you'll be using a type D socket, as is typically used for things like table-lamps/uplighters on lighting circuits. Adding a type D plug to your appliance would probably invalidate it's certification.
AFAIK you'll be required to submit a "Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate" to local building control. While this can be done by a homeowner, it requires you to be competent, comply completely with wiring regulations and have tested the works properly.
Your insurance company might require that works be carried out by a qualified and suitably registered electrician.

But! But!
Ok, so for point #1 you could add an RCD socket.
For point #2 you could in theory add a FCU (fused connection unit) with a 3A fuse - but here you run the risk of someone coming along in the future and changing the fuse for something higher. This in effect rules out this potion
Points #3-5 I don't see a way around.

All-in-all - this has bad idea written all over it.


Four ground wires.

One to the upstream supply  (along with a black and white)
One to the downstream load (along with a black and white)
One to the steel box
One to the receptacle

Works for me.


Wire size for emergency generator and 200 amp ats switch

200 amps will require 3/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum we would need to know how heavily loaded the circuit is expected to provide the correct wire size & for voltage drop.calculator This is easy to use code requires less than 3%. Put in your voltage 85' and expected full load.


I wouldn't worry about the scum left over - what you really need to do is get rid of the BIG gunk that's catching the little gunk that eventually clogs your sink.

For clogged drains, a hand held auger is your tool of choice for cleaning stubborn clogs out of bathroom pipes.


Borrow a laser level
Borrow a 4 foot mason's level
Don't use a level -- use a plumb bob and HS geometry

Make a plumb bob by hanging a heavy and centered weight from a chalk line and snap it in the center of your desired holes..  Now pick a point on the wall that will be your left hole and two points on your chalked line.  Use a wire and measure the distance from the hole to the upper point on your chalk line.  Draw an arc on the opposite side of the wall.  Repeat for the lower point on your chalk line; where they intersect is the location of your other hole.


One fuse turned off, still 130 Volt on circuit. How is this possible?

The fuse is designed to protect from overload, not render the circuit safe for maintenance.  When a circuit is protected by 2 fuses, you need to pull both fuses.  This would also be true, for instance, in a North American or Philippine 240V load.

This problem is precisely why North America has moved to circuit breakers, and installations like this use multi-pole breakers that either have "common trip" across all poles, or are handle-tied for "common maintenance shutoff" across all poles.


replace stud that has vent pipe through it

Why do you need to replace the stud?  Unless it has rotted, you do not need to replace a stud with water damage.  Removed the damaged drywall and any other wet items and let the wood dry out before replacing the drywall.

If this is inside the bathroom, be sure you are using the right type of product.  You would not use regular drywall in a shower or bath area, you would use cement board or something similar.


How can I seal an old wood finish on a 60-year-old wall that is off-gassing?

60 year-old wood should not be "off-gassing." I suspect there's moisture behind the wood and you're dealing with mold and wood-rot. Did the home inspection note anything about it?

I would hire a indoor environmental service to test the air near the wood to determine the problem. If it is moisture, you need to get the leak fixed, lose the wood, fix the structural damage, treat for termites and then finish up with drywall and wainscotting or paneling.


What is causing my gas water heater to squeal?

My guess is that something in the gas supply line of the heater is whistling (a vibration is being induced from the flow of gas). This could indicate a blockage or deformation of one or more of the gas jets. It's unlikely to be any problem with the exhaust flue or with the water in the tank, as you say.

The other thing it might be, depending on the tank's proximity to your gas meter, is that the gas reg on the meter (which steps down pressure from the gas main to a level suitable for your home's appliances) is starting to fail, and the heater, being closest to the gas reg, is picking up a vibration through the gas line that is induced by the failing reg. This is less likely especially if no other appliance makes the slightest noise, and the reg itself isn't making any noise when gas is flowing.

As far as fixing it, this is something I'd leave to a pro, but that's just because I know enough about gas to know I can seriously screw it up. The fix would likely be to replace any obviously crushed or deteriorated gas pipes and fittings in the HWH installation, and possibly disassemble the line back to the wall to make sure there aren't any nicks or dents in the pipe ends from where the installer dropped and damaged one, then installed it anyway.


How to repair or replace rotted wood below the frame of large windows?

There's an alternative to replacing the wood; there are several ways to repair it using resins.

One approach involves four steps.  First, any loose material is removed, but intact, soft material can remain.  Second, a thin resin is applied to penetrate deeply into the wood, seal it, and provide a solid surface.  Third, an epoxy putty, often filled with wood fibers, is used to fill and restore the original shape.  The last step is sanding and finishing.  This link illustrates the process: http://www.hereandthere.org/oldhouse/fixing-decayed-wood.html.
A simpler three-step process is to grind away the rotted wood down to good, solid wood.  The void is then filled with a special epoxy putty that strongly bonds with wood, remains a little flexible, and expands and contracts similar to wood.  The putty is shaped and contoured to match the original.  If the original isn't a simple flat surface, the shape can be reproduced on a plastic scraper that is then used as a template to shape the putty.  When it hardens, it is sanded and finished.

Here's a video of this type of repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l5q0xaQEf8.  As noted in the comments, the video uses an extremely expensive material.  But you can accomplish the same result with much cheaper materials.  For example, Bondo and others make special epoxy putties designed for rotted wood repair.  Here's a link to the Bondo product: http://bondo.com/bondo-rotted-wood-repair-kit-20178.html, and a link to one sold by Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-Rotted-Wood-Repair-Kit-084113/100664090.


What is attached to this spigot and how to remove

I learned a little about these doo dads this year when the two on our home started leaking after the winter freeze we had in Texas. The rubber grommets inside both went bad. After trying to get them off with no success, I took a picture and headed down to my favorite plumber dude on isle 9 at our local Home Depot. He laughed and smirked a little, then told me the backstory aaannnnddd... the trick to getting it off. Apparently, the home builders - after having a few too many of these stolen from homes during & after home builds - started enforcing the installers to grind the little locking screw off so that they could not be removed without a bit of work.
That little rusted over rivet spot, that’s where this screwhead used to be.

I also learned that there are two options you can buy when you need to replace one of these. You can buy the commercial grade that cost on average $30 OR you can get a non-commercial grade for less than $10. According to isle 9 plumber dude, they work the same. It’s like buying a Polo; does that little embroidered horse help with function?
So I went with the non-commercial $7 one, and they’re working great. Here’s how I got them off; you’ll need a drill bit that is made for going through metal. Place the drillbit on the spot where the screw was ground off, slowly drill out the old screw. Emphasis on slowly because you don't want to screw through and into the threads on the spigot. As you drill, take breaks to stop and see if it will come off. Eventually it will.


Wait how long after applying wood stain before urethane pass?

The stain needs to be dry but also make sure the wood does not absorb moisture.
Normally wood for interior use needs to be kept indoors / under cover within temperature and humidity limits otherwise it can start to bend.


What are the pros and cons of a vented vs unvented crawl space?

Most crawl spaces are vented if they have an earth floor or are prone to moisture. If you insulate between the floor joists with a moisture, mold and vermin resistant insulation (foam as we discussed before) you would still want some ventilation. The only time I would seal the exterior walls would be if I also used a pretty darn water tight moisture barrier over the floor, tuck taped to the knee wall at the bottom of the joists. You would be creating a dry cell and blocking movement of cold air through and under the house. This is typically done with a rubber/neoprene type compound sheet commercially, but can be done effectively  with a couple of layers of good 6 mil poly. This poly is avail at Lowe's, HD, etc. in 10 and 20 foot wide rolls, 25 to 100 foot in length. You can use Tyvek tape to seal the seams and around posts etc. Leave yourself a way to enter the space to check humidity levels occasionally for reassurance.


The tankless water heater can be mounted with either concentric venting (preferred) or dual-pipe venting - one for intake and one for exhaust. Because of this, we would not be able to 'common vent' in with the furnace exhaust or even the chimney itself because the concentric would be pulling air down the chimney or suck in the exhaust of the furnace. We could take the exhaust pipe of the dual pipe option and add it to the chimney or furnace, if sized correctly, but regardless we'd still have to direct vent outside for the intake. So, because of this, it makes the most sense to go with the concentric venting and route it outside.

The best location that we're working with is in that old coal storage room. This provides access to 3/4" water lines and the 1" gas line that we can pull off of for the 3/4" line needed for the water heater. The only workaround now is with venting. The gas meter in my picture is actually farther down the exterior wall than is shown (the gas line does a 90 after coming through the wall) and up to where it's shown in the picture. This allows the easiest access to venting outside through this area, although we're required to keep a 3' distance from the gas meter for it's regulator. This shouldn't be a problem because we actually have to run it up the wall about 3' anyway to clear the snow level. If this isn't workable, the other option is to run the vent to the complete other side of the basement and come out of the wall there. This could come close to the maximum allowable vent span, but it's an option currently.


Well it depends on the system most pressure reducing valves or regulators are there to prevent problems on the customer side , 60-80 psi is normal and most faucets can Handel this pressure.
I have seen 120 psi city pressure , without a pressure reducing valve or regulator there will be problems or earlier failures.
Is it time to replace OR repair your regulator
It sounds like a repair could take care of your problems for less than a replacement


Are these cracks small enough to paint as gap fill or do I need to caulk?

In these cases, the cracks occurred due to seasonal moisture changes or structural movement. I'd be pushing some latex painters caulk into each crack as deeply as reasonably possible. This will reduce both the chance and the effect of recurrence.

Cut the tip of the tube as small as possible and at roughly a 30 degree angle. Press the opening snugly against the crack as you move along the joint. Wipe any squeeze-out away with a finger or cloth. In the case of the crown molding, try to leave virtually no cove in the caulk. It should fill the crack without changing the shape of the assembly.

You can paint within a few minutes. The caulk will skin over rapidly, and since the cracks are very small there shouldn't be much shrinkage.


What type of hose should be used when flushing a water heater?

If you're going to flush the hot water heater you might as well turn it off and then take a shower or do a load of laundry. That way the water will only be lukewarm when you flush the tank and you won't throw away water you already paid to heat. Then you don't need to worry about the type of hose (or worry about spilling scalding water on yourself).


How to replace a door knob without screw

As @ Daniel Griscom suggested, I'm able to pull the latchbolt out from the side.

After prying off the bezel a little bit by a flathead screwdriver, I integrated the door knobs back and pull it side way, and successfully uninstalled the bezel and the latchbolt together.


How do I get the bulb holder off of the wire?

Looks like tabs need to be pushed, or screw driver lifts tab for release.


After I plunged my toilet, there was a leak to the downstairs ceiling. Could this be a wax ring issue? It doesn't leak when I flush afterwards

Yes, that could certainly be a wax seal issue. I've resealed a number of toilets after people had plunged them. It usually happens because the flange is installed below the finished floor so the compression on the seal is compromised. If the blockage is below the flange, the pressure exerted from the plunger can easily blow through the wax seal. You won't see a leak when you flush because the water is going down to the ceiling of the floor below. You should think about resealing that toilet as the problem probably won't fix itself. Check the position of the flange, it should be installed on top of the finished floor. There are flange extenders if needed. Good luck and stay safe out there.


Ceiling beam crack/split. Should I be worried?

IF those were wooden beams (which seems doubtful) the cracks are of no concern. They are in the top part of the beam, thus in compression, not tension. Two of them are more in the joint between ceiling and "beam" than "beam" for that matter.
If they are actually drywall over something (as suggested in a comment, pretty reasonably from the look of them) they are not structural and of no concern.


Has anyone installed pavers using a mat?

Since your question asks about someone with experience in regards to pavers, and I do, I will answer this.

While with any pavers I do not recommend heavy equipment, I do not consider a car to be heavy equipment as much as I do a forklift.

Gravel as a base is used for a foundation that withstands most shifting and prevents most sinkage. So the idea that you can only walk on this tells me it is pretty much worthless for what is being replaced. The cost of this material is high and to top that off, I can only assume laying out these mats and leveling the ground with sand will be more difficult than just leveling off one paver stone at a time over sand.

I use pavers all the time in driveways and the process is simple. Base gravel, sand, paver, backfill cracks with sand.

I would not recommend the paver mats.


How do I set up a wiring closet that connects to the exterior of the house?

Your local hardware store should have a selection of conduit that's suitable. Generally any PVC should be OK as it's designed to survive the weather, and does so very well. I used 15mm, but I wasn't running coax - just data cables. An SC fiber connector would not fit through a 15mm conduit, so you'll either have to get a larger conduit than this or get it crimped after it's been through the hole. Go for the larger conduit - it'll be cheaper and easier.

Penetrating the exterior wall depends on what kind of structure your house is built with. Ours is double-brick exterior, so I just drilled through it with a 15mm masonry drillbit and a large hammer-drill. Concrete should be pretty much the same. If you don't have access to a hammer drill, every few seconds stop the drill and pull it back a few cm, then start again. Depending on the thickness of your wall the drill bit will get incredibly hot, so be careful after you've made your hole.

With the exterior conduit, if it's PVC then it should be pretty safe against the weather as it is. If you need to run outdoor connectors outside of the conduit, then IP65 or 67-rated devices should do well.


Can I clean range hood exhaust duct without reaching it?

Exhaust duct is greasy clogged, right?  - We do not know, we can not see it from here.

How can I clean it, but not access it? - You can not. You have to access the duct if you want to clean it.

Are there safe chemicals I can spray at range hood fans? - There are dozens of safe grease cutting/cleaning chemicals on the market.

Then when I turn on range hood fans, these chemicals suck into exhaust duct, destroy all grease, and everything sucked out? - NO, that is not how it works. There is no sucking mechanism in your duct.

I don't want remove range hood or open exhaust duct. - Sorry but removal of the hood is required to clean the duct ( and to even assess if it is indeed full of grease.)

Here is the USA distributors web site. Your model is the R-727II.

Here is the contact email for sakura USA -  achoo@sakura-usa.com

Here is  link to  a search results on YouTube for cleaning range hoods.

Your unit does appear to be rather unconventional, looking at the photo it is not clear where the filters are or how to access them.

That is why you need to contact them directly.

UPDATE: Your range hood does not have "traditional" screens that trap the grease. There are two clear plastic grease collectors for each fan. one is mounted to the cone shaped fan guard and the other is at the back of the unit behind each fan near the wall. I believe the premise is condenses or collects on some unknown to me part of the unit and then drips down into the removable plastic receptacles. In theory the grease should not be getting into your duct. this video, not in English shows a brief simulation of the grease trap at work near the end of the video. Here is link to a parts page that has the plastic trays.

Please send me your gratitude in the form of a quality local craft beer from the area of your region. thanks.


Need advice on how to make a projector screen fit into an area

Definitely go with the ceiling mounting. However, I prefer simple, clean & neat.

(1) Is the setup I prefer. The top hook (4) is best, as it screws into the structure's framing, if you can find it. If not, then (5) can be screwed into the drywall or plaster to receive (4). (2) & (3) also use just the drywall or plaster & give you positioning flexibility. (6) can be an open or closed  (carabiner) S-hook or even just a nut & bolt with washers, so just the top of the chain is removable.


Well, you really only need to punch one or two holes in the drywall to get it started, then you can simply pull it down with your bare hands.  Assuming it's really just drywall and not something heavier.

Sawing lines won't really help, however, as properly installed drywall has screws ALL OVER it - so just go with  "punch hole and start pulling"...


How can I plug my portable generator into a "wall outlet"?

You should replace the garage outlet with an inlet, such as this (Amazon, as an example).

This way, you can use a standard male-female cord, either a standard extension cord or one made with the correct gauge of SO cord [Thanks, @EdBeal]. You avoid using a male-male cord which is so dangerous.


What type of register and/or installation method to use for a inside duct mounting holes?

You say "there was no bite behind the plaster when I drilled that pilot hole". I'm not sure if you mean that the screw didn't bite into something solid, or if, as your next sentence indicates, you were still drilling but hit something hard.
If you tried driving a screw into that and found that it wouldn't grip, that's not surprising for plaster. You'll want to use a molly/rawl plug/anchor that will go into an oversize hole in the plaster, then you drive the screw through the grill and into the molly. This will give your screw something to bite into, and the (usually) plastic molly is designed to hold in the plaster.
If you were still drilling and hit something solid, it may have been brick, or it could be a protective plate over a stud (though not likely that someone tried to run wiring that close to the vent, though it could be left over from a remodel). In that case, I'd still recommend some sort of wall anchor and a shorter screw to hold the grill in place so you don't have to drill any deeper.


This is created by a crow's foot texture brush.  The brush looks like this:

To see how it's used, refer to HOW TO TEXTURE (OR RETEXTURE) CEILINGS written by Mallory Danks.


How to build up height of concrete wall to use as beam support for deck

Your final suggestion is probably the simplest, but you don't need to run anchor bolts all the way from the top of the sleeper beam. You also don't need a top plate. Just bold down the plate, then fasten the other two beam components to it.
 ___________________________

 ___________________________
    |  |  |
    |  |  |
    |  |  |
   _|__|__|_
  |_________|

If you'd rater keep the space over the beam open for airflow or light or whatever, you can probably find an elevated post/beam support that will reach that far and not break the bank. Then you could put in a flush beam, like the one at the center of your current plan.

 ___________________________
     |  |  |
     |  |  |
    ||  |  ||
 ___||__|__||______________
       ||
       ||
   ____||___
  |_________|

You'd need to install supports at intervals that suit the beam size and load.


How to fix bar stools that are too short

Um, not really. Unless you got the stools from a mix & match furniture store like Ikea where you can buy the legs separately from the seat.

There are approximately 3 standard chair/table height combinations:

Table height (e.g. a standard dinning table; seat height ~18 inches, surface height ~30 inches)
Counter height (e.g. a kitchen counter; seat height ~24 inches, surface height ~36 inches)
Bar height (e.g. a bar or "high-top" tables; seat height ~30 inches, surface height ~42 inches)

Sounds like you have "counter height" stools with a "bar height" surface.


That's a proprietary crossover line that would've come with your faucet. Exact parts may not be easy to find. However, you could probably fix that with a two-way nipple and some standard hose clamps. You'd just cut the line at the leak point, insert the nipple into each stub, and clamp it snug.


What is this? (Something to do with water filtering?)

That appears to be the regeneration controller for a water softening system. You can't get rid of it because all water softener systems need to be periodically regenerated (which basically amounts to flushing the system with water to carry away the absorbed minerals) to allow them to continue working.


How can I remove the stench from a p-trap?

Safety point: Never mix chlorine and other chemicals unless they're intended to be mixed with it. If you want to try a chlorine pill -- or chlorine laundry bleach, which is essentially the same thing -- run lots of clear water through it first to rinse it out, and do the same after bleaching.

Yes, a clogged vent may force sewer gasses to escape by bubbling through the trap. Typically, drain vents look like a pipe sticking straight up out of the roof for a foot or more.


Access 2nd-story burst hydronic pipe through ceiling or floor?

Normally they would access from below - plaster/drywall is easier to both open and repair than flooring.


First make sure that you vents are clear, short and as straight as possible. Both have to be clear, short and straight.  And that have to be the right diameter..Too small--Bad.  And grading. They need a good slope back to the furnace; no sags.
2 As the draft inducer gets older its efficiency drops off.  The fins on the blower wheel have to be clean and sharp.  With just a little bit of tarnish on the wheel it just won't develop the vacuum need to close the vent switch. Also the bearings in the inducer motor dry out with time.  It is subjected to very hot conditions.  High temperatures destroy lubrication. If the inducer assembly is aged or suspect in any, replace it.
Then look at #3:
3 Does jumpering the vac make the furnace work every time.  If it does then you can buy an adjustable vacuum switch.  Dial this in to meet your own needs.
Keep in mind the vac switch is there to keep this furnace safe.  If you defeat its purpose with out meeting its criteria, you could jeopardize the health of the people living in the house.P.


If it goes to a subpanel, it's a feeder.

You cannot put a receptacle on a feeder.

What needs to happen is the dryer receptacle needs to be replaced with a blank junction box cover, and then a new 10/3 cable run from a dryer receptacle in a new box, to either main or sub panel, where it'll land on a 30A breaker.  This means the 10/3 cable will be alongside the 8/3 feeder, either to the main panel or to the sub.

You can use 8/3 for this dryer run if you really want to, but I don't see a reason to do that.  Dryers won't pull more than 30A (really: <24A) because every dryer manufacturer expects a 30A circuit, and sizes for it.

Once the entire 8/3 feeder is devoid of receptacles, it can be upgraded to a 40A breaker, because that's allowed on 8/3.  In practical terms, that will support the dryer and 1 receptacle circuit on each leg of power (so 2 if balanced).

One more thing.  If the subpanel came first and the dryer plug was an afterthought, it's possible this was spliced inline, and that probably means the wires in that box are way too short. You need 6" of length past the clamp, or 3" beyond the surface of the box.  In that case, move the box so one end has enough length, and re-run the other end.  Better, leave the "enough length" side as the dryer branch circuit, scrap the other end, and run a whole new feeder in 6AWG, bypassing the box entirely. 6AWG gives you 60A at the subpanel.


If you are unsure of what may or may not be inside the wall it is necessary to open up small inspection holes in the wall. Holes 4" x 4" are typically used for this purpose. If your wall surfaces are drywall or sheet rock that is a good thing because it is relatively easy to patch up these holes, particularly if you keep the cut out piece to be used for the patch.

Sometimes when running conduit or wires from floor to floor it is necessary to open up slightly larger holes (maybe 4" x 6") near the floor and the ceiling to gain access for drilling the necessary holes and shoving the conduit/wires through.

There are numerous questions here that address the process for patching these access and inspection holes.


Why does my new light fixture trip the circuit breaker?

Most likely - you treated a switch loop (black hot to switch, white switched hot from switch) as "hot and neutral" (since they are black and white wires) so every time you flip the switch to on, you are shorting hot to neutral. So, the circuit breaker, as it should, trips.

At this point you need to sort out what wires go where so you can sort out what they should be doing. If you'd care to save yourself or the next guy some trouble, pick up some red electrical tape and put it on the ends of that white wire from the switch, if that proves to be the case.


How can I replace a single bulb light with a fluorescent fixture?

What is probably happening here is you have power to the light on one black, another black to the switch, and a return path along the whites.  That is, the switch is AFTER the light.

This is generally unsafe as the light is still energized, even when the switch is off, and should be fixed regardless.

The first thing I'd do is beg/borrow/steel a non-contact voltage detector.

With everything still attached, switch the light off.  If I'm right, the detector would read hot on BOTH black wires, and the whites will be un-energized.  Flip the switch and the whites should be energized as well.

If this is indeed the situation, the fix is relatively easy. Turn the power off!   Remove the existing light.

Figure out which pair is wired to the switch.  The easiest way is to use a meter in resistance mode.  Find the black-white pair that shows low resistance when the switch is on, and open circuit when switched off.   Mark the white wire with a loop of electrical tape.  This will be the switched hot.

Now wire the blacks together with an appropriate wire nut, and make sure it's a secure connection.  You should not be able to see any copper.

Wire the switched hot (the white wire marked with tape) to the black wire of the new fixture. Wire the remaining white to the white wire of the fixture.  Make sure you've grounded the fixture according to the manufacturers instructions.

Mount the fixture, and turn the power back on.


Is there any significant difference between 5-56 and WD-40?

They are competing products that are both advertised to do the same five things (WD-40, CRC 5-56). It's not clear that one is any better than the other.


Can I create a water proof barrier to keep my garage & home from flooding?

In addition to the other ideas suggested you may want to investigate installing a driveway drain that is a trough cut across the driveway and covered over with a grate. This way any water that comes to near the garage enters the trough and gets shunted to the side of the driveway. The shunted water can then pour into a large french drain or could be diverted to a downslope area.

Here is a picture of what that would look like.


Is a P-Trap needed for dishwasher return line?

Yes. The disposal unit should have a barbed inlet that is intended to receive the dishwasher's drain line.

As others have mentioned, be sure to check that the knock-out plug has been removed from inside the barbed inlet. You can remove it by using a screw driver and a hammer.

Also be sure that you run the dishwasher drain hose up to the underside of the counter, securing it there with a clip and back down to the disposal connection. The hose is secured with a pinch or gear clamp.

Both the dishwasher and disposal unit's instruction manuals should show how to do this.


It does not make it as strong as a 2x8, but there's a way you could make it stronger (with some additional materials...)
Beam strength goes directly as width (twice as wide is twice as strong) but as the cube of height (or depth) so twice as deep is 8 times as strong.
Assuming modern planed lumber, 3.5, 5.5 and 7.25 are your actual height for 2x4, 2x6 and 2x8 material, unless they shrunk them again while I wasn't looking.
For a comparison, we'll look at the height cubed, without trying to relate that to anything.
7.25 cubed is about 381
3.5 cubed is about 43 and 5.5 cubed is about 166, for a total when sistered of 209 - quite a bit smaller than 381.
If you put your 2x6 under, rather than beside, your 2x4s, and then plate them together with some OSB or plywood, you get roughly in the ball park of 729 for the depth cubed.
Indeed, you could come quite close to a 2x8 just by putting 2x4s under the 2x4s, if they are well-bonded with plates, and if the plates are large enough they also add to the stiffness. You can also follow that path to building a small truss in place, which I'd not advise for a house, but it's quite feasible for a carport unless you are in the sort of jurisdiction that will require permits and engineering drawings for reinforcing your carport roof, (that seems unlikely, since it was underbuilt to begin with.)


How can I remove a stuck pivot rod from a popup sink drain?

I have had the ball /pivot plugged up with hair and toothpaste more than once. I usually use a pair of pliers and a little force to remove it, in one case I had to remove the drain and use a long handled screwdriver to pry it out from the inside, once it was clean it slid back in place no problem. So give it a bit of force and it will come out.


That self tapping screw is a code violation and I know several inspectors that will fail a home owner and an electrician for not using load center cover screws.

The load center screws have a larger head and almost always have a #2 square / slotted head , I got hammered many years ago and even stock several different brands as they are different.

Many of these screws are self forming NOT self tapping. Code specified self forming 2 threads in contact, yes self forming are tough to put in the first time but believe me that is a red flag for inspectors in my area.

I believe 1 brand has corse threads but it is a large head with a slotted / #2 square drive and is ok because it is according to the mfg directions. Self tappers do not.


I think those are Simpson Strong-Tie HD3B, or maybe a HD5B. At under 10 bucks a pop, you can probably afford to buy one just to look at it and see if you think it suits your needs.

edit: just looked at the fancy $100 ones, and I can see how you get way better attachment from them. I suggest you integrate a strap that ties the bracket to the underside of the brace, as a single lag through the bottom of the simpson isn't going to be stellar at resisting a force that pulls away.


Is masking tape left inside electrical boxes a safety concern?

Electrical tape would be fine. You can get it in many colors, too.

Masking/painter's tape does add some risk, as it's not got the same rated performance in overheating/fire conditions and might ignite or serve as a fuel source. It's a small concern, but it's a concern, and very probably a code violation.


How to finish retaining wall for a paver patio on a sloping ground?

If you can't add a coarse of block from the step out to the end, so that the top of the entire block wall is all the same, then I would consider removing the blocks from the step out and excavating to lower them down so that you can.

To accomplish water runoff you can:

build the retaining wall perfectly level then hump the patio pavers higher by
an inch or two about 2/3 of the way down the middle from the house out,
pitch the entire retaining wall in a direction as if it were one
monolithic thing
or a combination of the two.


Can I replace a toilet tank, only? what do I need to know regarding tank size to match to existing bowl?

It is possible to buy just the tank which matches your toilet.  I have done just that when I smashed my tank trying to move the toilet to fix the seal.  The model number was printed inside the tank and a little internet searching found the tank, with all the hardware in it, could be shipped to the hardware store right beside my house for about $80, which was about 1/3 of the price of the new toilet.  Since the hardware was included, the repair was incredibly simple.

Try searching for any identifying information inside or outside the tank or bowl.  If you can find something, don't be afraid to spend 20 minutes looking, you could save a bit of money.


Where exactly does backer board need to reside in a bathroom?

Backer board, HardieBacker, or cement board is used on any surface that is to be tiled.


You might want to try a gap filler like Sikaflex self leveling sealant.


How do I mount my TV on my wall with poor stud location?

Depending on your budget, most TV mounts for large TVs have enough leeway to be installed even where the studs are not centered behind the TV. I installed a 65" TV on a wall where the studs were off center relative to the wall unit. The back plate was over 2 feet long, which allowed me to easily hit two of them. In my case I wanted a mount with articulating arms to make it easier to push the TV back into the wall unit so this made it easier as well...however either way it looks like it would have worked even in the "worst case" with a stud right in the center of where I wanted the TV. (My studs were 16" apart though, it would be more difficult if yours are further apart)


Will a Bosch hammerdrill bit drill concrete faster than a cheap Makita bit?

Neither bit will do well in a standard drill. You need hammer action to chop through concrete with any sort of speed. A hammer drill (conventional drill with hammer action) will work for a few holes with some patience. If you need to bore many holes or to work quickly, a rotary hammer is a must, and they only accept SDS bits with the larger, slotted shaft base.

That said, the bit itself isn't terribly important with respect to shape. Even worn hammer bits do well if the carbide cutting blades are still attached. They fail when the blades break free of the bit shaft at the weld. At that point the metal in the shaft mushrooms over and you're done.

In short, either bit will do poorly or well depending on the tool that's driving it, and it's just a matter of durability. To get maximum life, spin fast and push slow. Allow cooldown after every few inches of cut.

Since you're using a relatively light-duty hammerdrill, I suggest purchasing a 3/16" bit and start each hole with that. 3/8" is rather large without a rotary hammer and you'll be at it for quite a while.


Is the powerwashing the subcontractor did on our deck "good enough?"

I think it looks pretty good. If something was clearly missed you could call them back for those area. I once used a solid color stain on my deck, but I didn't like that once it peeled, it looked bad. I recommend a semi-transparent stain. The gray and black areas will add character. Try a small area and see how it looks before doing the whole deck. I would never paint it or even worse, use one of those "deck restore" products that goes on super thick. Once that stuff starts peeling, (and it will), you would have a huge mess on your hands. Fortunately, all you need is some stain with a good protectant in it.


How can I fill in a large hole in a granite kitchen countertop?

The stains near the hole seem to suggest that someone had something like a coffee machine installed in this position that was plumbed for water (and maybe a small drain line) through the cabinet below.

You could consider the possibility to place an appliance over the hole if the location and layout of your counter top was conducive to that.

As far as patching it up.....since you are renting it is just as problematic to patch something like this as it would be going about replacing a counter top. In any case I suggest that you talk to the landlord before doing anything. They may have some ideas that would be suitable to their view of the property. Certainly it puts the landlord on notice that the hole exists and that it was not caused by you when you eventually move away.

From a purely functional standpoint the best patch would probably be an attempt to find another piece of stone with a similar color pattern and cut out a figure 8 shaped piece to fit in the hole then bond it in place from below with another larger support piece that spans across the opening.


Suction hose in my watering system getting air. What can be the problem?

Leak at a fitting.

Leak from cracks in the body of the hose - common for aged plastic hose exposed to sunlight, for instance. Or hose which has been chewed by animals.

Sucking water fast enough to either create a vortex (whirlpool) in the supply that brings air to the hose-end below the surface, or simply sucking the level of the supply down below the hose-end.


Definitely a "hex/Allen/socket" head set screw, you can plainly see the hex in your picture if you look close. I think you may have been using too small a key:


There are lots of options out there. Basically you need a wifi enabled relay. They all seem to have proprietary web interface/software and various limitations (operating temperature, normally open/closed, indoor/outdoor, etc.). You might want to inquire at a local pool supply shop as they seem to be popular for remotely controlling pool/spa equipment. This is a picture of one brand:


That is a pintle and gudgeon hinge. Usually the pintle is on the wall and the gudgeon is on the door, so that the gudgeon cup does not fill up with debris.

Search term "gudgeon", or "pintle", or "pintle and gudgeon hinge".

It is designed to come apart by lifting the door straight up. Then the individual parts (the "gudgeon" and the "pintle") can be unscrewed from their pilot holes.

In your case, you would remove the door, screw the top fitting further into the wall, and replace the door.

This will be complicated by whatever caused the fitting to start from the wall in the first place, which probably will require removing the fitting and repairing the hole.


How can I clean decomposing grass goo off my concrete driveway?

As the grass decompose, it releases tannin, a colorful byproduct of the natural decaying process. While the color will eventually fade from concrete, you can help hurry the process along with a little bit of driveway cleaning.

Spray the stained area with a garden hose to rinse away dirt. In a large plastic bucket, mix ½ cup of liquid dish detergent into 3 gallons of hot water. (Or, for the best results on tannin stains, use a powdered laundry detergent that’s advertised as being good at removing food stains.) Slowly pour the solution onto the tannin stains and work the liquid into the concrete using a stiff-bristle nylon brush. Rinse with the garden hose and, while the concrete is still wet, sprinkle powdered laundry detergent over the stains and scrub again. Leave the detergent on for a few minutes then rinse away. Repeat if necessary


Help with hiring pressure washing service

Ideally you would use the lowest pressure that will be effective, to minimize the chance of damage. A soft wash generally focuses on letting the detergent dwell and do the work, while a harder wash can make do with fewer (or no) chemicals. Some jobs clearly require one or the other, but siding is somewhere in the middle.

Assuming that both operators are skilled the high pressure guy has the potential advantage of using fewer chemicals, which is nice for plants and animals. The greater height from the scaffolding should also make it easier to aim the spray down, which tends to work better with siding than up. On the other hand, the high pressure stream is more likely to force water into places you'd rather not have it. Got any poorly flashed windows?

The low pressure guy is potentially less dangerous to your house, potentially more so to your garden if he's loading up on the chemicals. Using a pole puts him further from the work. That being said, you really care how the house looks from the ground. It doesn't sound like there are any features that couldn't be cleaned with the pole. Are there gargoyles or corbels that need the close up touch?

In the end you'll have to decide who is more trustworthy, whether that's by asking questions or seeing their previous work. Neither sounds too outlandish, though neither sounds extremely compelling. Two hundred psi sounds very low to remove mildew that's grown into the siding while three thousand sounds fairly high for a house.


Oracle says #1 aluminum.   Or #3 copper if you own a copper mine.

I don't like copper because the lugs on both ends are usually aluminum, and I don't like mixing copper and aluminum due to dissimilar metal corrosion.  You may recall that caused a national scandal when shoddy receptacles intended only for copper were used on aluminum wire.


Why would you do wall and not ceiling?  It would be wise, considering the small cost and time investment. It doesn't take much heated air in our cold winters to result in substantial moisture condensation.


Why are leads of primary and secondary plugs in step down transformer shorted?

This is either an autotransformer, or a regular transformer wired as an autotransformer, not an isolation transformer

The manufacturers of this transformer-unit most likely used an autotransformer, as all they are after is a voltage step-down, not isolation.  Even if they did use a two-winding transformer, they have wired it with a common neutral between the primary and secondary sides, which defeats any isolation provided by the transformer itself.  This is unlike an isolation transformer, which has no galvanic connection between current-carrying conductors on the primary and secondary sides.

The reason this is done is because it's less expensive (less copper) to make an autotransformer, and also less expensive (less insulation and testing) to make a step-down transformer than an isolation transformer.


Since you are allergic to bleach get some hydrogen peroxide. It will kill mold and mildew. I purchase my Hydrogen peroxide at a local chemical supply house and dilute to 3% with water. Remember when using concentrated hydrogen peroxide always add it to the water to dilute. Then spray or wipe down and let it sit for a few minutes and rinse. It may brighten the sink enamel if stained so be prepared to do the entire sink. I learned this sanitizing trick when working for a hospital, no bleach smell and it kills the nastys.


This ceases to be a factor if you use dedicated LED luminaires which don't have sockets.   LEDs are so reliable, and they don't "burn out" like bulbs, that there is no reason to socket them and a lot of reasons not to - such as this.

This also opens the door to using more robust dimming controls like 0-10V, PWM or smart dimming. (The system you are currently angling for is "the old way of dimming" that is made for incandescents, and LEDs struggle to work properly because it works the exact opposite way LEDs do.)

If you really want to use those fixtures, you can switch their sockets to something like GU24 which do not support incandescents. However GU24 screw-in LEDs are notably more expensive.  Candelabra sockets are readily available in LED at no cost disadvantage, but incandescent candelabra bulbs are commonly 40W and can be found as large as 60W.

If you really, really, really want to support incandescents, then use 2 dimmers and call it a "feature". However, you have other problems. This with the dimmers consumes more than 50% of a 20A circuit's capacity, so it must be on a dedicated circuit that serves only hardwired loads and does not power any receptacles.  Like any continuous load, it must be derated 125% so this counts as 1500W toward hard circuit limits of 1800W (15A) or 2400W (20A).


Nest thermostat gen 2 won’t turn off furnace

It looks like your nest is wired without the common, so to draw the power it needs, it triggers frequently your heating circuit, doing so, your furnace relay will read a permanent 'call for heat' and won't stop.  So, check if in your wall there is a spare thermostat wire (pick black one if present) and connect it to the 'common' side of feeding transformer, so the nest will be able to get power directly and won't have to trigger frequently the heating circuit just to recharge itself anf finally, your furnace will stay off.

To reduce 'thermostat frying rate' an option (if 24V transformer is bundled with your boiler and you can't replace it easly) is to put a second (external) transformer and connect the stat via relays (you'll need 3 relay for DC with 24V coils) in this case the thermostat will have to operate only on 'auxiliary' relays and worst case is that you'll have to replace often only the inexpensive relays.


changing a looped ceiling rose (LCR) light for a light that only has 3 connections, Live, Neutral and Earth

In my country a junction box of applicable protection class (=IP code) is mandatory ... terminal blocks are never allowed to lay blank.


Repair broken button from dishwasher controller plastic case

Have you tried looking for a secondhand part? Or a similar model dead from pump failure etc.
Our plastic handle/fascia broke. £70 for new one. Taped it up then put a search on a well known auction site. After a few months the part turned up for £15 all in.


Do fire-taped drywall seams need to be painted?

No, paint is not required for wall board on combustible (wood) construction. (See ICC Table 720.1(2), Items 12, 14, and 15.)
Note: Item 15 includes 2-hour fire rated construction too (two layers of gypsum board).
However, be aware that nailing requirements, type of plaster mix, etc. do matter. Most stud spacing is 16” on center, but I did see one with 24” on center (14-1.4 ) with gypsum board long dimension to stud, with 6d cooler nails or wallboard nails at 7” on center.


Closet ring repair kit would go over top the old rotten one and screw into the floor.


Frozen drain line into septic from furnace

If the furnace was running in the home and the temperature in the home was above about 50 degrees F. I can not see how the drain line could freeze. Also, how did the drain line freeze all the way into the septic tank? Drain lines that are underground do not usually freeze. I believe that more information is needed as to the construction of your home, the location of this drain line, and the overall operating conditions  need to be explained farther. Is there a vent line between the house and septic tank that would allow cold air to enter the drain line at that point and freeze that drain line? Also, 45 degrees is probably a little to low a temperature to maintain a home when you are away. I would keep mine at 55 degrees.


What is the purpose of the "grounding" tab/wire on a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter?

Yes, it's designed as a ground attachment. No, it's not simply to keep it from falling out, as evidenced by the style you haven't shown that provides a pigtail green wire, and the fact that the terminal in question is electrically connected to the ground pin of the receptacle side of the device.

While it is true that this will not always result in a ground, and may (I haven't got time to sift through code, nor code on a computer to sift through) not result in a ground approved by code, it is, nevertheless, what it's there for, and in quite a few cases it does, in fact result in a ground - whether or not you like it.


Don't laugh, this may work as I have used it on stuck or cross-threaded bolts and locks. Remember that heat makes metals expand, while cold makes metals contract. Looks like the usual 5-pin tumbler lock. I do not know how the key is stuck, but brass is a soft metal. After long term use the surface can becomes rounded and not move the tumblers correctly. The tumblers could be stuck from dirt or other contaminants. Try oiling the key first by forcing WD-40 or a light motor oil into the lock and tap the key lightly with a small hammer. This will normally loosen a stuck pin tumbler. Next step is to by freeze-spray and freeze only the key. This will make the key shrink a tiny bit. Wiggle the key and latch to try and jar the pin tumblers loose. Brass is not brittle when cold but do not use enough power to break the key. I am assuming someone did not play a dirty prank and put super-glue inside the lock. Even so, oil, freezing and heating will make the key loosen up, even if it takes a few hours.


How to calculate the maximum safe load on a horizontal wooden beam?

There are lots of span calculators available online, which help you determine what size lumber to use in home or deck construction.  For example

http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/reversecalc

and

http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc

You could try to figure out what the live loads and dead loads for the bed are and go from there.

Shortcut - I might try to get by with 2x4's spaced 2' or less apart if they run side to side across a single mattress,  but I'd want 2x6's if they run long ways, or for a full or larger.


Is there ever a reason for reversing hot and neutral on a receptacle?

There is no reason why they should be reversed.  Fix the receptacles and double check all the electrical in your house.  It looks like you had someone living there that was comfortable making electrical changes that didn't know anything about electrical.


In layman's terms, what is reverse osmosis filtration?

A RO filter filters water by pushing water it through a semi-permeable membrane (think of it as a piece of plastic that can let water (but not much else) slowly ooze through).

Normally, if you separate dirty water and clean water with such a membrane, natural forces will cause the clean water to slowly move over to the dirty side. This  process is called Osmosis. (this is an oversimplification, not all impurities cause osmotic pressure).

In a Reverse Osmosis filter, a pump is used to pressurize the water on the dirty side, which forces the water to go the opposite direction...from the dirty side to the clean side.  i.e. it's Reversing the Osmosis. This clean water is then collected and that's what you drink.

Eventually the water on the dirty side becomes so full of impurities that it's hard to push any more water through the membrane, so that water is drained away and replaced with fresh water. This is why RO filters use so much water -- they waste 4 to 20 gallons of water for each gallon of purified water they produce.

Most RO filters also have a conventional pre-filter (or multiple filters) to remove a lot of the contaminants before they reach the RO membrane so the RO membrane is only removing the dissolved impurities that are hard to remove with a filter.


What do I need to install LED strip lighting?

Using these RGB as a base example

Basic Electronics Crash Course

Volts * Amps = Watts
Watts / Volt = Amps

General Information

These strips indeed usually come in lengths of 5 meters but you find suppliers that will give you 10/15/20 metres options also. Most only provide 5 meters because of the power they need to power up properly. So they try and sell you a cheap 12volt apadter used for each 5M strips but also the guys who sell them up to 20Metres does not mean you can use the entire length because the PCB traces might burn out caused by overloading them. You need to check with the seller how you can use them. The market is flooded with various makes and knock offs- so make sure you can get the specifications.

A lot of LED 5050 or 3258 each have different power ratings and usually come in 150 or 300 per 5 meters (30 / 60 per meter)

Powering LED strips

From the example provided earlier I will use single colour LED. The 5 meter white strip uses 24 Watts - That is 2A X 12 = 24WATTS - So using any 12v power supply with at least 2A will power that single 5 meter strip at 100%

I have similar strip and I joined them with a soldering iron to make a 10 meter strip and it works fine. I powered them up for 10 minutes and felt if the PCB tracks, close to the power supply because that is were the highest power draw will be, checked if they were getting warm/hot. They were cold so I left them for another 30 minutes and still cold, so  they could handle the extra power. To calculate the MAX rating of the PCB track you would need to know the material, PCB thickness and width (Which nobody supplies). Also there is no equipment to test that either.

So instead of buying several small 12V adapters I go to the next best thing. A computer power supply!

You can get really cheap ones like 450Watt and they can power up tens of strips with clean 12volt power, with short circuit protection and overload protection. This is a DIY Q&A so there needs to be DIY involved! Using a Computer PSU you are only interested in the yellow and black wires. The rest you can cut away/discard.

Here is a diagram showing the pinout computer PSU connectors.

You need to realize you cannot just join all the yellows and use it as one. Each yellow wire is a PHASE and each phase has a maximum amperage rating. All the phases give the power supply its maximum peak rating.

As long as the combined amperage/wattage does not exceed that written on the label of the PSU you will be OK to combine many LED strips to a single phase. But each 5 Meter LED strip will need to be powered individually to be safe. So you need to pull wire alongside all your led strips if you're going to go more than 10M :(

OK - Fine it seems too much faffing around with the computer PSU- but I would like you to know that paying extortionate prices for 12volt power adapters is not neccessary. LED's are not special- they do not need special 100pound adapters. Just shop around for big wattage 12volt supplies. You should find good prices.

Cutting LED strips

Joining LED strips

Picture worth a 1000 words

Just match up the pads, join them like that or use some cable. Does not matter.

RGB LED's and drivers

Unfortunately RGB LEDS use three 12volt channels with a controller that outputs a variation of voltages on each channel to get the LED to its desired colour. The controllers output a PWM signal and can only handle the maximum watts it is rated for. the only suggestion is to buy 4 of the exact same model that use infra-red remote. Put them side by side so that the remote will control all of them at the same time and pull your cables to the desired locations. Some of these controllers can store pre set colours so that could be an advantage.

But you can also buy a repeater now a days from China. They are basically another micro controller that sense the PWN signal and outputs the same but with the ability to power more strips.

-EDIT Nov/2014
There are allot more RGB amplifiers / repeaters on the market now and cost between 5-15USD. Search on eBay for local seller.

Good Luck, it's not that bad :)


Should there be a gap when adding insulation in a wooden outbuilding?

It looks like your building has studs. The best way to insulate between those studs is low-cost batt insulation, either fiberglass or mineral wool. If you want to use polystyrene foam sheets (like the EPS foam you're showing) the easiest and most cost-effective way to do it is to lay it across the studs, not between them. Use the cheap batts between the studs and save the more expensive and more-difficult-to-cut-and-shape foam for the usage where it's more practical: over the studs.

As for ventilation, you do not need any ventilation inside the wall or on the interior. The place for ventilation is on the outside of the wall. If it's not too late to do that (i.e. because you haven't yet applied the exterior finish materials), then it's always a good idea to build vertical ventilation channels under the finish material. This will greatly enhance the drying potential of the wall and make it a more robust building. And if you're in a position to do this, it makes sense to apply all the foam on the outside too, not on the inside. It's easier and more effective. You would apply the foam the outside of the board sheathing, install a weather-resistant barrier of Tyvek or another housewrap with taped seams over that as an air barrier layer (flashed to the windows and doors with window and door flashing tape), then insulate between the studs with fiberglass or mineral wool, and finally install your interior tongue-and-groove over the studs and fiberglass. Such a wall will resist the weather for hundreds of years assuming the roof does its part.

If the exterior finish material is already in place and you are not willing to remove them, then you'll need to install the foam on the inside. And you'll need to use another layer as your air barrier. The board sheathing on the outside is not airtight. And your choice of interior finish material--tongue-and-groove boards--is also not airtight. So your air barrier will need to be in the middle of the wall somewhere. Your best bet is treating the foam layer as your wall's air barrier, which entails caulking, taping, spray foaming, and otherwise air-sealing the seams to eliminate as many gaps as possible. Then cover up all the foam boards with tongue-and-groove boards.


Is there a way to change the webbing on this picnic chair?

Looks like you can:

https://www.patioslingsite.com/products-page/chair-replacement-slings/replacement-chair-sling-1pc/

On your chairs, seems like there are caps at the tops and bottoms of the sides that you can probably slide the old sling off.

It's probably worth posting the brand here if you really want to replace them.

Good luck!


Your description would indicate a severe short to ground. I would also think about changing out the breaker as this type of short may have damaged it. you need to start opening up boxes, pull out the wiring and look for a damaged wire. Once again from what you are describing it shouldn't be hard to find.

PS to all DIYlfers please do not keep trying to reset a breaker multiple times that has tripped. The only thing you can accomplish is further damage to your circuit and any appliance or device you may have attached to it. If you get a trip you should remove all portable equipment and appliances as you can. Then reset the breaker and see if it trips. If it does trip then leave it off until you can determine what is causing the trip. This advice not only has financial considerations but also has a high safety risk for starting a fire.

Stay safe in you endeavors.


How do I change an external door to a window?

You will need to remove any rotting wood, find any water intrusion areas then you can use 2X4's or whatever you need to fill in above the floor up to the bottom of the window. Check on the rough opening size needed for the new window and frame accordingly. The interior is easily covered with drywall or whatever. The exterior is a little more tricky. You might want to match the existing siding material if that's what you have.


Which batteries are compatible with the DeWalt DW9107?

From DeWalt support:

Unfortunately it looks like the battery charger will not charge a 18 volt battery that will work with the DCD950b. The charger charges up to a 14.4 volt battery and the DCD950 will take a 18 volt battery. The battery and charger you will need for the DCD950 is  Charger 388683-12 and battery DC9096.


The metal sill was sized/cut incorrectly.  It should have horns, cut at where the stop trim is, extending under the jamb, to the full rough opening of the doorway (to under where the jamb trim piece is).

Also, the piece of wood the leading edge of the metal sill is resting upon should not be sitting so proud.  If this piece of wood can be recessed, so that only about 1/2"-3/4" extends forward of the metal sill, this may solve (though not ideally) the issue of the gap.

I'm concerned there may be a hollow space along the entire sill that isn't particularly well sealed from water infiltration.  You may want to remove the aforementioned piece of wood and consider what is required to seal this area with a 1x or 2x flooring/sub-sill/framing.


Who should I call for a roof drain leak?

Water test around the drain right at the pipe with a little water running just at the drain only, keep on moving the water source a little bit to the outside of the drain until you get it to leak again to pinpoint your hole, then you will have a better idea who you need to fix the problem. I would say a roofer if it is on the roof are decking.

If it is around the drain it will be caulking with a type of silicone if it is getting between the drain and the roof membranes. it has a lot to do with what type of roof systems is on there now if it is leaking out away from the drain. There are different types of flat roof systems if the roof is small enough under 20 ft wide there are one pc rubber roof made by Good year and last a lifetime that will have no seems and will never leak again. This same type of membrane I have used over 30 years and never a problem, and I have also applied for pond liners and lakes.

When you add layers over and make several seems there will always be that chance of a seem leaking if the seems fails and then you will have to start over. The less seems, the better. Roofers would do the roof membranes, where some roofers also do decking if needed, if it has leaked for a while, then there may be some rotted decking.

Find the source of where the leak is coming from to know who to call to fix the problem. The membrane should also put on with a drain just like a shower drain where the membrane is locked tight on top of the drain with bolts as the membrane is cut with a hole in it only at the drain opening where it can not leak.


How do I handle significant snow and ice dams on a 4/12 gable roof with ridge vents?

Ok gentilmen , lets talk ice dams. First and foremost, what causes an ice dam to form anyway. Heat trapped in an attic, either from heat loss from the house or sun beating on the roof, cannot escape quickly and melts snow on the roof. This water drains to the bottom of the roof where it runs across a cold edge and freezes. The overhang of your roof (soffit area) is typically not over a heated area and tends to be very cold, much colder that the rest of the roof. Even with a well insulated ceiling and good ventilation ice dams will form if conditions are right. This is where the old saying,"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" rings true.  Any time you have a heavy snow load on your roof followed by some moderate temps or sunny days, some natural melting is going to occur, especially if the ridge vents are buried in snow. Sun hitting the gable ends will heat up the attic a bit too. Many times the ice dam starts in the gutters then bridges over to the roof edge and starts it's way up. Once it starts, there is now way to stop it unless the source of water building it is taken away. The only way to deprive the ice dam of more water is to REMOVE THE SNOW FROM THE ROOF AND MAKE AN EXIT FOR ANY REMAINING WATER TO DRAIN. This is why it is so important to use a roof rake soon after a snowfall to remove several feet of snow from the edge of the roof. With the snow removed, you can see if a dam is starting and can address it quickly while it is small and easy to treat. Other things to consider may include, if you live in an area where your ridge vent commonly is covered in snow, add a gable end vent on both sides of the house and be sure the soffit vents are equipped with "proper vent panels" inside and that they are not blocked by insulation. Always use a minimum of 6 feet of Grace ice and water shield, or if you want a good insurance policy against leaks, cover the entire roof with Grace before shingling. This may cost a bit more up front, but pays for itself in the long run.  Maximize your attic insulation. Take a good look at your gutters and consider lowering them if they are too close to the drip edge where ice dams begin.  There is no one thing that will prevent ice dams, but if you look at all the preventions at your disposal, dealing with them will be a lot easier.  Sorry for preaching guys, but I give this same speel to many customers every year when water is leaking in their homes and they are shelling out big bucks for repairs. Two years ago here in Maine, the huge snowfalls and subsiquint ice dam problems prompted homeowners insurance companies to send out letters telling policy holders that they would not cover a second  loss if these precautions were not met.


Black/brown substance from/in cold water

Probably algae - not sure I'd do anything.  You can get a bag fill it with white vinegar and tie it around your shower head and leave it over night.


Advice for installing click lock engineered bamboo floor over linoleum?

I'd glue it.  The glue does more than water resistance.  Even high end engineered wood flooring recommends gluing the tongue and groove.  You want the floor to expand as a unit you don't want the expansion to drive individual boards apart so ideally each board is strongly adhere to the previous.  Personal experience says the short join is the one that typically fails.

What is your underlayment install going to look like?  Loose lay, glue down?  Depending on the lino and how soft it is you might be able to skip the underlayment.  I think half the idea behind the underlayment is to reduce noise from two hard surfaces contacting or grit between the two causing noise.  The lino would probably work the same way.

It sounds like you are already set on the laminate.  I've switched to waterproof vinyl click lock.  It is more expensive but I love the seamless look, the flexibility (better able to handle dips in the floor) and the waterproof aspect especially over concrete.  The underlayment is also typically already adhered to the bottom.  I've had two major floods over the flooring (hot water tank leak and a pipe) and the floor is still going strong.  The transition strips bit the dust but the floor did well.


How can I make this old space heater more quiet?

It could be noise due to the fluid moving inside. I would try to let any air out of the pipes and re-fill it to the recommended level.


How can I solder/braze thin stainless steel wire?

Successful soldering (you're not welding, and you have the wrong torch if you want to weld) requires that the work be physically clean (scrub it) and chemically clean (flux) - you need a very aggressive flux for stainless, because the reason it IS "stainless" is that it forms a strong oxide layer which protects it from most corrosion. Kester is not going to regard stainless as electrical work, for one thing, so don't bark up that tree too long.

With thin stainless, the other problem you almost certainly have (stainless conducts heat poorly, which makes it very easy to overheat) is overheating the work - once work has been overheated, you have to return to physically cleaning it and refluxing before you have a hope in heck of getting solder on it. You also need to stay out of the "oxidizing cone" of the torch flame - ideally, switch to an oxy-acetlyene torch, make the flame rich, and only use the feather - but you can get there with propane if you're careful. The thickness of the solder does not matter much - you heat the wires, and melt the solder on the wires - don't heat the solder.

You could also move up to brazing, which is a process similar to soldering but at higher temperatures, using different filler metals. When most folks refer to silver soldering, what they actually mean is silver brazing (the rod has some silver, but not a huge amount.) The solder you linked to is a low-temperature solder that has silver in it, from the "lead free" change in "soft solders."

What this is doing on a DIY home improvement site is another question. High voltage electrical projects are not exactly the bread and butter of DIY. Another approach in a lab setting would be to do the whole job in a glovebox full of nitrogen or argon. You could also TIG weld it, if you were good at TIG welding. Spot welding might be another approach, but that will also work better on stainless in an oxygen-free atmosphere (glovebox, etc.)