Waterproofing a concrete basement wall with a staircase in the way?

I regards to the unsealed area behind the stairs leaking, you just have to get in there and seal up the unpainted concrete, and also patch any holes, voids, and the gap where the floor meets the wall.  We have done quite a few of these by removing a stair tread and in your case the riser so you can get in there.

For materials we always use Hydro-Seal 75 water based epoxy coating and apply two coats and do all our patching with Hydro-Seal 75 epoxy mortar which is Hydro-Seal 75 mixed with Portland Cement & Sand(or concrete sand mix).  Hydro-Seal 75 is great for all types of basemant walls and floors

Remove stair tread and riser enough to fit a person in behind the stairs.
Prepare surface by washing with TSP & wire brush after washing if needed.
Mix Hydro-Seal 75 enough needed to coat the area, looks like 1/2 gallon would do this area, and hand to guy behind the stairs.
Paint on with roller and cut edges with brush
Mixer makes some Hydro-Seal 75 mortar and hands to guy behind the stairs with putty knife so he can skim all cracks.  Allow paint and patching to dry 2 to 4 hours.
Apply 2nd coat same way to achieve a pinhole free application. I would also seal the entire floor behind there as well after 2 coats on the wall is done.
Put stair treads and risers removed back.

Note- Good job for a small person!


To me it is a single mis wired 3 way switch, @jack was almost correct (all) 4 way switches swap the 2 travelers from 1 side to the other+.
Replacing a switch is allowed if the landlord approves in all the locations I have worked as a licensed electrician.  Some jurisdictions like NY a home owner can’t do basic maintenance so it is best to know.
I would check to see where the hot is coming in on the switch note the connections photograph them or record the connections if you don’t have a meter.
It sounds like a traveler and common at one of the 3 ways is reversed.
The good thing is if you have access to the breaker panel (you should by code) this is easy to figure out trial and error with in 4 tries.
Pick 1 switch power off swaps trailer and common turn power in and test  did not fix power off now the other trailer is moved to common swap and test no better return to original and go to the other 3 way and repeat the same sequence.
There are 2 travelers at each end  one of these is mixed up with a common. If incorrectly connected it doesn't work properly in 1 or 2 of the combinations there is no damage possibility using the same wires on the 3 terminals (don’t touch the ground) all the 4 way dose is flip the traveler pairs.
It can be faster for an electrician to do this test than take measurements and make the change I have done this many times with the exact same issues and had success.


How to fill / seal in-slab hvac ductwork?

I would remove the register and pour ready-mix concrete into the channel to seal the old "ducts" and fill up the hole in the floor. Shouldn't cost you more then $20, if that.


Can I vent a bathroom fan through an attic window?

This could be an option, as long as a few conditions are met.
There should be a damper
A damper will prevent outside air from entering the exhaust pipe, traveling down the length and entering the conditioned space. Most exhaust vent covers are designed in such a way, so that even on windy days the exhaust can still be exhausted.  If you just have a pipe pointing to the outside, it's possible the outside air pressure can overcome the exhaust air pressure preventing the exhaust from exhausting.
There shouldn't be a way for the exhaust to reenter the building
If you simply close the window on a pipe that does not completely fill the opening, it's very likely that air pressure differences will force the exhausted air right back in the window.  You'll want to devise a way to prevent the exhausted air from reentering the building. This other answer illustrates a way to install the vent, while blocking the entire window opening.


GFCI outlet reading between 80 and 640 volts on multimeter

One set of terminals says line that is the incoming hot.
The other set of terminals that normally has a cover over them say load.
The load is for additional receptacles to be protected.
Some brands the line is on the bottom some line is on top so we don’t know if it is correct or incorrectly wired.
Strange readings on your meter are you sure it’s on Volts and not millivolt range.
Just wiring wrong cannot create higher voltage.


Bathroom light switch changed, now the light only turns on when the fan switch is turned on.

No, you didn't put the wires back the same.  You switched sides.   Or the new model of switch switched sides*.

Put the old switch back on Just as it was.  Only this time, instead of looking at the physical position of the screws, look at the function of the screws.  One screw will be "common", the others switched.  Find those on the new switch.

* The physical position of switch screws varies wildly from switch to switch.  I have never done a 3-way swap where the common and travelers were in the same place on the old vs new switch. There are only 12 possibilities, how can every single switch be different??


Front door won't fully close or sit flush

In both pictures it appears that the hinges, on the door side, are not fully mortised. I can't tell from the pictures whether this is because the door edge was not properly mortised for the hinges being used, or because the hinge screws are loose.

The hinges should be completely flush with the door edge and they are not. This is causing the gap between the hinges to be too narrow for the Door Guard Hinge Plate to fit without putting stress on the assembly. Try pulling the door and chiseling the hinge areas on the door edge such that the hinges are flush like they should be, I think that will solve your problem.


Seems a little excessive to dig up the whole yard and not just add dirt.  But to find out where the gutters drain just add some food coloring into the gutter drain and see where it pops up.  It should come out a white 4 inch pipe at the curb but could be coming out a overgrown yard popup.  FYI it is illegal to drain rain runoff into a sewer line if you happen to not be able to locate the outflow someone may have done a no no.


Should rooms be designed to minimize waste of sheet goods?

If your objective is to optimize the product you receive (the completed house) vs the cost you pay for it by sizing to use full sheets of material -- forget it. The cost of all materials combined doesn't strongly dominate the cost of the project; they'll often sum to around half of the project cost. The panelized materials such as plywood or OSB sheathing, subfloor, and roof deck, and the drywall used throughout, are a small fraction of the project cost. Sizing the project to use whole sheets might literally save dollars or even tens of dollars per room. Other materials such as paint and concrete effectively come in bulk. Still others like electrical wire, drywall joint compound, or roofing shingles can't be reasonably estimated to ensure optimal use of each roll or box anyway. Basically the only thing where standard sizing matters is height: spec most of your rooms to have nominal 8 foot or 9 foot ceilings so that the builder can use off-the-shelf 92-5/8 or 104-5/8 studs. That makes the walls just the right height to fit 4 foot wide drywall (or 4-1/2 foot drywall in the case of 9 foot ceilings). The length of the wall really doesn't matter -- the drywall contractor will use 8, 10, or even 12 foot long panels as he sees fit. Small scraps have a way of being used above doorways or for casing window and passage openings.

A builder will quickly realize that your well-intentioned effort to optimize material usage will actually increase his labor cost; the net savings will be zero (or even negative). On the other hand, if your motivation is to optimize the materials as an eco-friendly  or resource/footprint minimization measure, then you may not mind spending extra on the labor to achieve that goal.

I'd suggest that you not even think about efficiency for the builders, but rather think about efficiency for the life of the building -- its lifetime operating cost. Consider whether you want to incorporate passive solar design ideas which can reduce your heating and cooling needs (and can reduce the up-front cost of the corresponding equipment, too). Consider the advantages (or lack thereof) of specifying upgraded doors or windows. Consider whether to require insulation under your concrete and whether to upgrade the materials and methods for insulating the walls and attic. Consider future-proofing by installing a thoughtful system of conduits at least for low-voltage electronics, and maybe even for your mains wiring.

In summary: builders are much better at optimizing than a homeowner or even an architect could hope to be. Let them look after that, and expend your own limited design time and effort on higher-level things.


Have you considered simply building it out of white melamine (plastic-laminate-covered fiberboard, available at most lumberyards in the US)? Heavy, requires special screws to get a really strong connection, but cheap and durable.


Transferring Surge Circuit inside Metal Enclosure

With a part that is likely to get hot I would use fiber or ceramic spacers , plastic can melt, and rubber can burn. In power distribution systems fiber and ceramic standoffs is how we mount buss bars.


Can I use 14/2 cable for a light switch loop?

You can use cable that contains 14AWG conductors for adding an additional light on the circuit as long as the circuit breaker that protects that wiring circuit is not rated above 15A.

It there is a case where the existing wiring of that circuit happens to be 12AWG and the breaker is rated at 20A then any additional wiring runs you add to that circuit will have to be 12AWG as per code and safety guidelines. A 20A breaker cannot properly protect a wiring circuit that contains any 14AWG wires that may develop a short circuit or be exposed to an overload.


The meter likely has rubber gaskets that make a seal between the meter body and the pipes; like a garden hose.   Temperature changes or age (likely only if the city installed a used meter with used gaskets) could have changed the pliability of the gaskets. I can't say if the nuts loosened, but there shouldn't be any teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads.  If they start to leak again, or if you're sufficiently worried, you can check the gaskets. Turn off the water at the main and you can easily take the pipes apart from the meter and inspect the gaskets.  New ones can be purchased at any plumbing supply store for a couple bucks.


Why did concrete screws feel loose when installed in a brick wall?

Tapconing into a mortar joint is to be avoided.
See the discussion here.
And the one here about how 3/16" are garbage. Use 1/4".

If the Tapcon goes into a mortar joint it's pull out strength will depend on the compressive PSI of the mortar and the depth of the mortar joint in combination with the length & diameter of the Tapcon.
– forums.jlconline.com


Is it safe to remove risers from stairs?

Risers are not a structural part of stairs. The stringers carry all the load. Risers prevent things (including heads) from slipping between the steps.


The existing wiring has the wrong color for neutral, which should be white, not green. Check it out at the upstream junction box. I recommend running a dedicated white neutral wire too.

Once you’ve done that, connect color-to-color: black for hot, white for neutral, green for safety ground.

If you’re unsure about this, consider hiring an electrician.

EDIT: should be migrated to DIY.


Can the back side of a window type aircon exhaust in an empty ceiling area?

I think you'd find that the heat built up and leaked right back into the living area, unless the attic area was actively ventilated. That's where a lot of the heat in your unit is coming from in the first place, after all. And pumping heat with an A/C is less efficient if you're pumping it into an even hotter space.


This is actually just a vacuum measurement system - used to show that there is negative pressure in the radon mitigation system drawing radon gas up and out of your home.

As long as the liquid in the right hand arm is higher than the left, then it is working.


Setting-type compound (the bagged kind you mix vs. the drying-type you buy premixed in a bucket) will easily fill a 1/2" gap without cracking.  Make sure you load up the gap well before applying your tape, then finish it as you would any other joint.

Sadly I have a lot of experience filling this type of gap from my own basement project a few years ago...


Rooftop garden irrigation: Some plumbing questions

Problem is the pipe from faucet to solenoid is mains pressure. The barb and ratchet clip style connection isn't rated for that pressure.
if you can run pvc pipe for that stretch then that would be much less likely to leak.
Effectively extending the mains from the faucet to a new outlet near the garden.
The consequences of a big leak, are they very bad?


How does wood paneling compare to drywall?

The cost of prefinished wall paneling can vary wildly. Cheap 3/16 inch fake wood or patterned panels can cost around $10 per panel. A decent real wood veneer can soar to $40 each.

It is common practice to put paneling over drywall. Two main reasons for that are fire rating and ability to spread adhesive evenly so panels don't bulge between studs. There is no real R-value advantage. If anything, if paneling is not installed over drywall, the seams can be a source of air infiltration, negating any insulation value.

As a comparison, my drywall subcontractor charges me an average of $45 per sheet for 12 X 4 foot 1/2 inch rock, hung, taped, mudded, and sanded paint ready. This is really competitive with  decent quality paneling, especially if you figure in a drywall untaped backer. If you do decide to go with prefinished panels, be sure you really like it, because you're gonna be looking at it for a long time! LOL


It looks like you have drywall attached to the studs above where the tub is attached.

You should remove the drywall entirely. Then put concrete board or something like densglass or kerdiboard and bring it butted to the tub.

Then your wall sheet and the tub ledge should be nearly flush. Finally, install the tile covering both the wallboard and the tub lip.


Can I safely plug a 15amp socket to 13amp socket, through multiple adapters?

Do not do this.

First of all even you would have to admit that the assemblage would be unwieldy at best.
Secondly having so many connections in series increases the overall resistance of the circuit and leads to a voltage drop and increase in temperature.
Kludges like what you propose often lead to unfortunate results.

Get a true sense of danger and respect for high powered live mains connections  and live to tell your grandchildren about how to live a safe life.


Are 2x6 rafters adequate to carry a day bed in a pergola?

I think you'd be fine hanging the swing from both 2x6's.  (I don't see any reason you wouldn't use both.)  Southern pine 2x6's are OK up to 9'11" for joists if spaced 12" on centers. But those numbers are based on limiting the amount of deflection of the joist, so the floor isn't springy.  In this way, a little deflection isn't going to be a big deal, in fact a lot of those swings have a spring in the support so they have some give.
If you sink four eye bolts into the bottom of the 2x6's, two at each end, and put say 1' of chain on each eye bolt, and use a threaded link to connect that to the chains that the swing hangs from, it should be more than strong enough.


Does resilient channel change the orientation that drywall is mounted?

In the sound studios where I work, we've had several rooms added using RC for acoustic dampening. The drywall is hung in the same orientation as the wall studs, but the pattern for screws holding the drywall is done differently to attach to the RC channel. I'll include an image showing the method I am most familiar with:


Why does a system boiler with hot water cylinder not use a diverter valve?

Radiators don't put out a lot of heat at that temperature, so you'd need a lot more area, so the heating loop usually runs warmer than you'd really want the hot water cylinder to get up to, so the boiler thermostat setting is a bit of a compromise with a system with no diverter.

Combi boilers that are either heat or HW but not both, often do have different temperature settings for the two modes, determined electronically using a thermistor sensor on the boiler, but regular systems with CH/CH+HW/HW modes selected through a timer plus room and HW tank thermostats, usually have a single mechanical boiler thermostat setting, since the boiler's control system is usually pretty simple and independent of the external control circuitry. On old pilot light boilers, there may not be any electrical circuitry around the boiler at all, just a mechanical thermostat operated gas valve.


Replacing 3 bulb fixture with LED fixture

Stop. The wires coming from the ceiling must be left as they are
For some reason, this one drives people crazy.  If a lamp takes multiple wires, and people see multiple wires coming from the ceiling to the fixture, they think there's some sort of correspondence.  There's not.

Example: If you see 3 white wires coming from the ceiling, and 3 white wires going to the 3 bulbs in the fixture, and they're all clumped together, they are so for a reason.  The 3 white wires are not only communicating with the 3 lamp bulbs, but also with each other.
the fact that it's 3 and 3 is pure coincidence. The ceiling-3’s first job is to connect the three ceiling wires with each other.  Because those wires have other jobs unrelated to this light. Their second job is to provide the necessary service to the light-3.

So people take apart the wires from the ceiling because they think the ceiling wires are all about the light. After they discover this is wrong, they have the wires all confused and are unable to put them back the way they were.  We see this all the time, we had one just yesterday.
Here's what you do
Take photos.  Notice that all the black wires from all the lamps goes to one single wire nut.  There will be one or more other wires from the ceiling also going into that nut. Whatever you do, those wires from the ceiling need to remain connected to each other.
The same applies to the lamp white wires.
The ceiling wires could be any conceivable color, and may also be the same color as other wires going into other wire nuts.  If that offends your OCD, more on that later. Color coding is simply not a thing.  The colors are a side-effect of cable manufacture, they must be made different so they can be distinguished on the other end.  Real electricians rely on testing, position and grouping to determine which wires are which.
Although in all probability, the white-wire group will be all-white.  Don't get too excited about that, it's a special rule for neutrals -neutrals must be white, but white wires are not necessarily neutral.
You may also find other groups of wires nutted together that do not connect to the lamp.  Leave those alone. Seriously.
So all the white wires from the new fixture goes into the same bundle of wires that all the white wires from the old fixture went to, and all the other wires in that bundle stay together.
Ditto black.
If you were simply removing the fixture, then the new fixture would have 0 wires obviously, but the bundle of wires in the ceiling that was together before, must still be together. If removing the lamp wire(s)  leaves a ceiling wire solo, it is capped. Do not split groups.
With safety grounds, follow the lead of the last fixture. Grounds are always green, yellow/green or bare, except in the old Soviet Bloc.  It is the only color code that is reliable.
Marking wires by function
I can't stand seeing 3 black wires in a box each doing different jobs.  That's why I own 10 colors of electrical tape.  (5 will do). That is why I wrap tape around wires to re-mark wires by their function:

black for always-hot (you use that in switch loops)
red for switched-hot (this wire invariably feeds a lamp, note that the wires on lamps themselves are black)
white for neutral, but you don't have a choice here, since every cable has white, and if neutral is present, Code requires you use white for it.
blue for alternate switched-hot, if there's 2 switches involved or if red is in the box for other purposes.
yellow (solitary) for third switched-hot.
yellow (on a pair of wires) for 3-way travelers.
Etc.

This makes boxes make a lot more sense really fast.
Feel free to start your work by following the lamp blacks to their wire nut and marking all wires in that clump with red or blue electrical tape.  No need to mark the old lamp's wires obviously.


Should I get a single- or two-stage furnace for my three-floor brick home?

2 stage is always the way to go but as with any furnace must be sized right. To size a furnace properly a contractor should use ACCA Manual J or equivalent. The furnace should be sized based on the coldest anticipated temperature(minus the worst 3%). Since it is not that cold very often your furnace is almost always too large for your house. A two stage furnace helps to alleviate this by using the low stage when it is not too cold. If your furnace is too large there can be large temperature swings. The proper size furnace keeps temperature more even. Some contractors try and use two stage furnaces to makeup for them not doing a proper heat load calculation usually ending up with a furnace that is too large. If sized correctly and operated with a good 2 stage thermostat that actually calculates how fast the temperature is rising, two stage furnaces are awesome.
Variable speed furnaces are very reliable and their motors are much more robust than normal motors. I have seen their “brains” scrambled on a few units without surge protection. I generally only remommend variable speed furnaces if there is air conditioning involved. Variable speed is great for controlling humidity during cooling and they take less electricity so your savings adds up quickly if using for air conditioning too.
Two stage furnaces are only $300-$400 more than single stage and variable speed furnaces about $500 more than that. You will need to add for a good 2 stage thermostat and possibly running an extra wire.


If it's not stainless steel it might rust (or generically corrode for non-steel) sooner than plastic would break. Manufacturing-wise, the plastic part is no doubt less expensive to make.


what kind of shower handle do i need for this type of rough valve? I don't know name of old handle

That's definitely a Moen. It has a "pull out dial" handle or (more specifically) Moen 96797  Chateau One-Handle Tub and Shower Knob; and I think the cartridge is 1225B.

Here's a video about replacing the cartridge (it shows exactly the save valve) and in the beginning you can see the tear drop shaped handle.


The rack is 28 inches wide. Its bound to be over at least one stud. How did you try to locate? Did you use a good stud finder? Look for hints for where a stud might be, like an electrical outlet below. (electrical boxes are usually mounted on a stud). Also a magnetic stud finder would find nails and screws. I would try again to find at least one stud and attach the rack to that with two screws, and use steel toggle bolts for the other two into drywall.


How much surface area do you need on studs to hang drywall?

"Wane" is the area on a edge of a board where the bark may have been but flaked so the edge is not a full flat surface. In today's high recovery saw mills the lower grades may have wane on all 4 sides of a 4x4" because the tree top was not much larger than that. Not all lumber is safe for building it should have a stamp on it stating the grade. In my state #2 is the lowest grade for structural lumber and the wane is limited to get this stamp. It sounds like you have #3 or #4 grade lumber I would check local building codes to verify it is safe to use. I will double check with one of our graders on the limit of the wane for structural lumber. I just talked to our planer operator he grades on occasion he said 2/3 the wide side can have wane and 1/3 on the narrow but the other 2 faces should be clean for a #2. He did say there was a small % that can exceed this but we don't push it or we could loose our stamps. The inspectors regularly pull loads and inspect complete units of lumber with the grader.


Non-contact detector shows elec. from wall switch, but light will not come on

Ever use air tools?  The air pressure line comes from the compressor, goes to the tool, and where does the air go after that?  it just disappears, into the magical aether, or really, just the air.

Ever use hydraulic tools?  The hydraulic line comes from the pump, through the tool, and then there's a second hydraulic line back to the pump. Why? So you don't flood the shop with hydraulic fluid!

Electricity does not work like a compressor where the power comes out the hot and just disappears into the aether  (except in Australia, where it does, but nevermind that).

Actually, electricity works like hydraulics, except it's two-way, so the return line is just as important as the supply.  That return line is where your problem lies. This is called the neutral wire.

Measuring the neutral wire with  your voltage tester may be useful. It should read no voltage. If you measure hot voltage there (with the light on), the problem is between there and the breaker.


How to secure switch box flush with wall surface

This is most likely easily fixed by swapping the box out with a different style (Old Work Box) or simply running some screws into the side of the existing box if it's against a stud, depending on the situation.

Pictures will help.

Either way, it's unlikely that you will have to cut into the wall.

a) Here is how to remove an broken electrical box:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq4UkWsUWoo

b) And here is how to install an "old work box" in its place:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8Fq8I_AQ-Q


Drainage downhill under slab with block retaining wall

I know a little about 2 subjects. This is one. I'm a landscape architect and two easy examples of how to fix your problem came to mind. BTW...nice drawing.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU DO THIS...simply get some diamond tip masonry drill bits and drill some holes into your retaining wall about an inch above the ground. Also do the same from the other side of your wall at different levels in your wall, but that's below the ground surface that your retaining.
Doing this is not optional if you want your wall to last through the next rainfall in your area. This is to allow water from any sudden downpours as well as water trapped below the surface to escape, while leaving your yard in place.
The other option that's easily done is called a French drain. This is the most aesthetically pleasing way to move water because the entire drain is buried and cannot be seen. Easily done with the right equipment (varies widely from a mini excavator to a pick and shovel) or neighborhood kid to dig the trench for your pipe to lay in.
The opening to the drain would be where the question mark is on your drawing. And you would have the pipe traveling down the hill and UNDER where your retaining wall will be. Just 3" below the surface of the ground where your wall will be is sufficient to keep it from being pinched or crushed.
Make sure you level out the ground where the first layer of bricks that make up the base of your wall, and bury your pipe 3 inches below that. Cover with dirt. The only things you HAVE TO BE SURE OF is that your pipe must be laid in a straight line, and ALWAYS keep the fall. Meaning don't allow a hump of dirt make your pipe lift more than 1/8 inch or water and sediment will gather there, eventually clogging the drain. It only needs to be as long as about 6 inches at the least past your wall. But you can run it as far as you want. No one will even know its there. You can purchase everything you need at Walmart or your local home improvement store for cheap.
Oh yeah, avoid drilling any holes in the actual mortar/cement you use to hold the bricks in place to prevent weakening the structure. The amount of holes you need depend on the amount of water that comes your direction from other places around you. A 1" hole every 2 to 5 feet above the ground. With  smaller holes placed closer together below the surface on other side of wall.


If i use one ground wire for two outlets, will my equipment get damaged?

Generally, adding a ground wire is always better for electronic equipment.  It helps surge suppressors do their job by providing a ground reference.   It provides real chassis grounding which among other things gives a solid route for  static electricity to go to ground instead of getting inside equipment.  It also provides a fault path if any hot wires short to ground, which assures you get a breaker trip.  And it makes sure equipment chassis is not energized so it electrocutes someone. I'm glad you're doing it - it will help.

That said, grounds will not cause cheap electronics with poor components  to suddenly become quality.  Grounds will not themselves "clean up" dirty, noisy AC power, although they will help surge suppressors do that.  Dirty power is often caused by your own equipment - for instance the air conditioner in your drawing.  You may want to protect the PC from the air conditioner.

Grounds also don't fix potential overloads, and you might have one here.  Fancy PC's aren't necessarily power hogs (the Mac Pro is only 2.5 amps) but "850 watt" PC power supplies are popular and they can draw 10 amps full bore (the difference being inefficiency).  A typical window air conditioner is 5-8 amps.  Loads which are continuous should only run at 80% of circuit capacity, that's 12A on a 15A breaker and 16A on a 20A breaker.  I would encourage you to investigate further to make sure those loads (and the other loads on that circuit) aren't too much.   To measure a device's actual current draw, gadgets like the Kill-A-Watt do nicely.


Silicone use to bond wood boards at high temperature?

Krayden offers Loctite Hysol, a high heat epoxy suited for wood applications up to 350 degrees. They have other similar products with even higher heat ratings.

Here's some 3M Scotch Weld Epoxy as well


How can I convert a wall to a writing board?

whiteboard paint, quick google search should give you a few options for that:
Google Search

another idea is vinyl wrapping the whole wall, but that could cost more than the whiteboard paint - The wife wraps boats in vinyl, and says it would cost about 200 quid to wrap a 7m2 wall and all you would need to do is give it a really good sand.

She also has in the office a white board they made with the vinyl and it's about 5 years old and still going strong :)

Hope that helps.

Martyn


Separating 12-3 wire from panel to feed a bathroom fan and light

You're using the word "wire" to describe what is actually "cable".  12/3 is a cable that contains 3 conductor wires plus a ground wire. This matters here.

First, find all the other multi-wire branch circuits

OK, this is priority one.  You need to get inside the panel, and search the panel for more circuits like this one.  You stated they are on independent breakers; they need not to be.

They need to be on 2-pole breakers, which is a double breaker which fits in 2 spaces (or straddles 2 spaces, as in GE Qline and Crouse Hinds).  The most important feature of this breaker is that the two handles will be factory-tied together.

This is to provide common maintenance shutoff, but it also assures they are on opposite poles of the circuit. That is to say, there must be 240V measured between the two hots.  If there is 0 volts, that will overload the neutral wire.   A classic blunder is to free up space by moving these from a 2-pole to a tandem breaker (note handles not tied).

Further, anywhere both hots are present, the neutral wire must be pigtailed. That way, any device can be removed without breaking the other half of the circuit.

Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, Multi-Wire Branch Circuits are rather wonderful, in my opinion, and a great way to get 2 circuits almost for the price of 1.

Option 1: Cap it off and don't use it

In this case, you simply stop using the red wire.  Cap it off on both ends, stick a wire nut to cap it off, and tape the wire nut on the wire (they tend to fall off when put on a single wire).

Don't cut it - for one thing, it is hard to insulate a wire that's been cut back to  the sheath, and for another, the next resident may want a heater and wouldn't that spare wire be a nice Christmas present for them!  Or, your wife could get sick of the hair dryer and curler tripping the breaker constantly, and look at that! Spare circuit right up in the ceiling!

Use the spare half-circuit for something else

You can't have bathroom receptacle loads power anything in any other room.  That restriction does not apply to bathroom hardwired loads.  Since half the circuit only powers bathroom light and fan, you have loads of capacity on the black half-circuit and 100% capacity on the red half-circuit.  You can get 20A out of both of them!

So add 2 circuits to anything you want.  It could be more kitchen countertop  receps.  It could be 2 bedroom circuits.

Heck, you could bring them both down to the bathroom receptacles and now you have 3 circuits for bathroom receps. That takes care of the curling iron + hair dryer problem!  Honestly, 3 circuits in a bathroom is a little excessive, even for me, so I would then liberate the original recep circuit for something else.

Do the Harper Shuffle

If routing makes this feasible, I would do a swaperoo.   I would dedicate the MWBC to bathroom receptacles, so you have 2 full circuits for receps.

Then, I would take the original bathroom receptacle circuit, and use it for lights, fan and room for heater. Because in the modern age with LED lighting, a whole MWBC is overkill for that. A plain 120V/20A circuit has 1920W of provisionable power; a heater takes 1500, a fan takes ~150, and LED lights won't be near 270W.

And -- this solves the problem of hair dryer overload killing the bathroom lights.  A receptacle overload will most likely trip both half-circuits; but since the lights  are on a totally separate circuit, non-issue.

If you abandon the MWBC, you could still do the recep.

Suppose you decide to cap off the red wire and just not use it. You still have well in excess of 1500W of usable power on the lighting circuit, that's just being wasted.  You might as well bring that down to a receptacle and let someone use it!

However, you don't want them overloading that circuit and killing the lights, so I'd arrange it so there's only a single receptacle socket available to them. (plug-in devices are UL-restricted to 1500W).  They make 1-socket plain receptacles, but you'll need GFCI protection for a bathroom recep.  That's a bit harder, but they do make combination GFCI + receptacle + switch devices, with 1 switch and 1 GFCI-protected socket. Perfect, and you can even put the switch to good use!

Also, once any part of the MWBC has a bathroom recep on it, the other half can't be used for anything outside that bathroom. So this depends on you abandoning the other half of the MWBC (or using it in this bathroom).

Remember, this is the 2010's oh wait. You need switch neutral.

You mentioned running a single 12/3 down to the switch. Nuh-uh.  Consider the wires that need to be at the switch:

Always-hot (to supply switches obviously)
Neutral (as of NEC 2011; to be available for smart switches; however, this also makes it available for the receptacle I mentioned)
Switched-hot/Light: hot when you want the light on
Switched-hot/Fan: hot when you want the fan on

Further, you're up against a different rule, that says Currents must be equal in each cable or conduit. So you can't just use two 12/2 cables.  There are several ways to skin this cat.

Use one fat cable with enough conductors. They do indeed make 12/4 cable, and even 12/5 cable (to provide future option for the heater or using the other hot).
Use conduit, and run individual wires as needed; it's what I'd do.
Run two switch loops. However, due to the 2011 rules, both switch loops will need to use 12/3 cable, so you'd run two 12/3 cables.  Each loop needs its own neutral; you can't shortcut and use a 12/2 for the fan, because if someone installs one of those pushbutton timers that needs neutral, it is not allowed to poach neutral from the switch 12/3 (that would make currents unequal in each cable).
Extend always-hot power from the fan box, down to the switch box (say, in a 12/2 cable, or a 12/3 if you wanted the option to bring down the other hot, say, for receps).  Then, use a second cable (12/3) to power fan and light, in the usual way.   However, this means you have two different things going on in the ceiling box: extending the supply cable, and supplying the fan and light. These should be separated 100%, i.e. extend the supply, then lay a piece of saran wrap in there to encapsulate that wiring since you won't touch it again, then wire the fan/light normally.  You will need a deep box for this since you'll add a bunch of cubic inches for all that splicing.


A possible "other and better" solution from IPC (which may or may not be what your local code is based on - mine is, but this specific section is then banned in the local modifications) is to increase the size at the downturn - see section 917.
By making the downpipe a size larger than the input from the sink, the downpipe cannot be filled to the point of siphoning. I think 2" is called out in that section as currently written, and your typical kitchen sink is 1-1/2"
However, that may be as much work as just moving the drain connection to the wall, with a vent, which I'd argue is better. Certainly more work than installing an AAV, but I'm biased against AAVs since they are prone to fail, and when they fail, they stink, so I will go to considerable effort to get a real vent in place rather than use one.
For "Tee and AAV", flip the sink connections so the tailpiece is on the left, into a P-trap, into the side opening of a Sanitary Tee on top of the drain standpipe, and extend the AAV from the top of the Tee up as high as you can get it under the counter. Maintain 1/4" per foot slope on the "horizontal" runs towards the drain.


What bit to use to cut a hole in quartz counter top?

You will cut this as it is granite and use a diamond tip hole bit (see example that I have used).  Not an endorsement because I cut a hole in granite 3-4 times a year but they worked fine for me.

Quartz is a little easier to cut than granite but I would still go diamond.  Also make sure you have someone pouring water on the scene, take you time, put little to no pressure on the bit after it starts, and if things are going too slow reverse and pull the bit out and try again (let it cool and clear out debris).


How do I do a straight cut of all 4 legs of a metal chair?

Woodworker's solution: put chair on flat surface. Put shims under feet as needed to level and stabilize it. Using a pencil on top of a suitable scrap of wood, mark all sides of all four legs at the same height above the table. Cut to these lines. If necessary, fine-tune with sandpaper, but generally this will be close enough that flexibility in the materials will do the rest.


Grounding a sub panel in separate building

You cannot do this under current code. You USED to be able to do this. I suspect that proved to be a poor idea, since now you need to run a 4th conductor (hot or neutral) and maintain separated ground and neutral all the way to the service entrance.


Load-Bearing Wall? Parallel to Joists, single story, but has attic supports

Since your front section at one time was a garage the there was a need to provide a fire break wall between the garage and the living portion of the house. Since the garage undoubtedly had an open ceiling all the way up into the rafter area the fire break wall had to extend way  up to the roof line. To support the heavy drywall used as sheathing on the fire break wall studding was added from the top plate of the lower wall up to the rafters.

The drywall used on such walls is often 5/8" thick or two layers of 1/2" thick material.

If going by your picture is accurate it is doubtful if this is a load bearing wall in the conventional sense. However depending on the construction of the top plate it may not be providing the necessary strong tie behavior to prevent rafter sagging in that area if the lower wall was to be removed.


Concrete Footing or Concrete Blocks For Footings

You will have a more stable deck if you go 48" into the ground. This will significantly reduce the stress on the house and deck at the ledger board. In my deck experience (I used to rebuild decks) I would rather have a pier in the ground. In some of the estimates the ground goes through 1,000 freeze thaw cycles in a hard winter here in the Midwest. That means that your deck will move slightly up and down with each cycle. This would matter more or less depending on the soil type and the size of the deck. It is a bit more work to drill the piers and pour the concrete but I think it's worth it. I haven't read all the specs on those piers but when they first came out I don't think they were advertising it for as tall of a deck as your wanting to build or that your neighbor has.


Removing Old Deck - how to patch missing aluminum siding

I have used pop rivets to repair aluminum siding in the past. You can see the patch even after painted. In 1 case we were able to remove several panels from the back of a garage and make it look original. The back side of the garage we used smothe hardi plank to cover , it was not even close on the garage but that was an area that was totally out of view and the high visibility Areas looked like there had not been a change.


How do I verify that a 240v outlet is wired properly?

Given the 110V tester, I'll assume you are North American locale for this:

Look up your outlet type.

Test (using appropriate care) that you have 240V from the L1 to L2 (hots) (you presumably did this per your question, but make sure it's the correct terminals)

Test that you have 120V from each hot to neutral.

Test that you have 120V from each hot to ground.

Test that you have no, or very low, voltage from neutral to ground.

Only after testing that voltage from neutral to ground is 0 or very low, turn OFF the breaker for this dryer outlet and test for continuity (resistance, Ohms) between neutral and ground - there should be continuity - the resistance should be low.

No need for a "widget" if you have a meter and can use it safely.

If the wiring is done very poorly you COULD have a situation where the voltages look fine until you turn on the dryer - that would be from something like a high-resitance connection - the voltage at the plug would drop significantly when the dryer was plugged in and turned on. Careful (always use care and respect with electricity) testing with a dryer in place could verify this. There's not really a safe way to test for this without a dryer to plug in. That sort of thing would be more likely if the outlet was installed by an amateur (I'm not clear if it was in place and you don't know it's provenance, or if it was just installed - if just installed, call back whoever installed it to check it out.) This is especially true if the wire is aluminum.


Stiffen Floor with bridging between open web floor Trusses?

No, do not add bridging between open web floor trusses. @Jasen is exactly correct.
Bridging, blocking, etc. does not add much strength for bending anyway. It would be better to add a bearing wall or reduce the span if possible. However, you can’t just add a bearing wall without having the manufacturer verify where it will need to be installed. Then, of course , you’ll need a footing, etc.
Open web trusses are designed so that the top chord is in compression ONLY, the bottom chord is in tension ONLY and the diagonal chords are either in tension or compression ONLY.
When additional blocking, bridging, etc. is added, it allows forces to be transferred from truss to truss. This action is called “double bending”. That is to say one of the chords could be in tension and the additional bridging could cause the chord to be in bending...tension and compression. That additional tension could exceed the allowable stress of the member or the connector.
You have open web trusses not I-joists, but the effect is similar. The additional bridging, etc. could transfer additional loads that exceed the web strength, chord strength, or the glue strength between the web and chords.
You’ll need to consult the truss manufacturer to see where additional bridging, etc. can be added. (I doubt a structural engineer will assist you because they didn’t design the connectors. )


50 Amp tankless water heater and 30 amp double pole switch

I am going to try to brake down your question.

  I have a 60 amp max tankless water heater.

Now just off of what you said the 2014 NEC Table 310.15(B)(16) shows that a #6 or #4 wire is needed for 60 amps, depending on which wire you use.

  The circuit breaker is 60 amps.

You are right in line with the amps of the water-heater.

  The water heater is connected to a NEMA 10-50 power receptacle

That receptacle is only rated up to 50amp but try to find a 60amp 3wire receptacle.

  There a switch to turn on and off the water heater from inside the house. I am going to replace the switch. I noticed that it is a double pole 30 amp switch.

BIG problem, the switch is way under sized, but from your picture it doesn't look like the correct size wire ether.

I would look at the wiring that is going to the breaker and see if it is correct. You may have to start over again.


Kerdi shower pan in a shower with 2 drains

Definitely cut off the extra drain.

Even with two shower heads running, you won't exceed the capacity of a properly maintained 2" drain line. In addition to that, it will be more uncomfortable than you think to have a small mountain in the middle of the shower floor.

Good luck. I love the Kerdi shower system.


Oz wiring looks kinda weird to folk in the top half of the planet.

This seems to be an Oz equivalent of what Brits would call 2-way switches and what Americans would call 3-way switches

The "loop" connector is presumably not wired to the switch but is a provided as a convenience to save having a floating connector-block (or wire-nut).

In your case it looks like the three blacks shown at right in the diagram above have, in your photo, been connected using a "loop" terminal rather than by using a floating connector block.

It isn't clear from your photos if the rest of the your wiring's connections are consistent with this diagram.

It might be that the triple reds and triple blacks in your first photo are where some parallel (separately switched) lights branch off.


That would be a self tapping screw with a diameter of 5 mm, and a length of 70 mm.  In English units it would be a self tapping screw with a diameter between 3/16" and 13/64" (0.1969"), and a length of 2 3/4".


I just had a training class that mentioned these units a few weeks back (even offered a bounty to get more views). The system comes fully charged you just assemble it and connect the lines. All hvac systems vibrate and this is normal. I hope you reviewed the instructions and the feed back to seal the threads on the line set. I use nylog (nylog blue for the last few years). Movement is somewhat normal especially with the 25’ line set so having the thread sealant is a good idea and will reduce the number 1 cause of failures low refrigerant (this was what the instructor told us).
Yes some vibration is normal the pad you mount the unit helps dampen this,  so I would not worry two much about that.

With dogs (I love dogs and have them) make sure they do not pee on the outside unit. Dog pee is very corrosive and will wipe out the outside coil much faster, I have seen this several times on systems where dog pee ate the fins and eventually caused holes in the tubes.  But as far as some vibrations of the pipes this is normal.


What is the standard range hood clearance?

It is not a specific answer. Different manufactures will tell you in their literature which is the appropriate height for their pieces. However a decent range falls between 26" and 34"


1) Nails have much greater shear strength and are better than screws when that is a concern, for your application screws are fine. I would use 1 1/2" but 1 3/4" will work too.

2) No.

3) Screws are fine, long enough to grip tight.

4) 1/8" - 1/4" gap? No problem. If you are going to tile it won't matter at all, if it concerns you cover it with tile backer-board or trowel some tile mortar into the cracks.

5) I use screws because they are easier to seat flush by countersinking the heads. You cannot leave the heads sticking up (screw or nail), even a little, or you may end up with cracked tile.


Pros and Cons of opening wall between kitchen and dining room

Having an open layout will make the home feel larger and less constraining.
Before opening the wall:

make sure you dont have any plumbing, electrical, water in the area you want to open or else you'll have to move all of that to the side which involves lots of work.
check to make sure its not a weight bearing wall (you might have to install a header if it is).

The only con I could think of is that the 5' x 3' opening is pretty small and would make it look like a service window at the local DMV. Making the opening wider/taller would create the open space that pretty much all builders do now-a-days. If you post a picture of both side of the walls and possibly a layout, we could give our two cents.


Is there a reason I should NOT install a ceiling fan in my kitchen?

It can be done, but the fan blades will need cleaned more often from any smoke/oil/residue from cooking in the kitchen as compared to elsewhere in the house.  That may result in increased wear and tear, so you may end up replacing the unit sooner than if it were somewhere else in the house.


Wire identification for a camera system install

"yellow" is probably the center conductor of the coaxial cable for video, the black one beside it is likely the shield/outer conductor and grounded. Hard to see for sure with a mess of black goop on there.

A BNC coax has two conductors - a center conductor and a circular shield conductor around the outside.

Red is likely + DC (12 or 24 volts most likely) black will be - DC and probably also ground in most (not all)  systems.

If the current system is not running coax (which it obviously has in the "video part" picture) all the way to the cameras you might need to run new coax. If it does, but without connectors, you might need to crimp new connectors onto the coax.


GFCI in a 3-wire sub panel with bonded neutral and ground

A GFCI breaker does not know or care what happens upstream (elsewhere in the subpanel or back at the main panel. All that matters is that neutral and hot are connected to it properly so that it can detect the difference between them. If there is a ground wire going to the protected device then that ground must be separate from neutral until sometime past the GFCI - i.e., whether the ground is connected to the neutral bar in this subpanel is a code & safety issue but won't affect the GFCI.

So the GFCI should not be a problem.

On the other hand, some things look a little strange about the panel. I'm no pro, but:

The right-side breaker 2nd from the bottom looks different. Is it the right type for the panel?

As far as a proper ground path, if your conduit is metal end-to-end then that should give you an easy way to take care of grounding. And if it isn't metal end-to-end, you should be able to fish a ground wire (green or bare copper, size depends on the size of the other sizes) through and then separate neutral and ground in the subpanel.


How do I secure a steel rod inside a blind hole of a silumin part?

(A picture of the broken piece would help.)

Option 1. (By far the best answer) Buy a new hacksaw. You won't be able to fix this without removing the threaded piece that still remains in the hole, then fabricating a new piece to hold the blade. This will involve adding threads to the new piece. If you don't have the tools to do this work, then you will need to obtain them, costing you more than a new hacksaw frame.

Option 2. Remove the threaded part that remains inside the hole. Usually this involves drilling a small hole in it, then you must buy a tool for removing screws that have been broken off in a hole. (Its usually called an ez-out, or something like that. A hardware store will have them.) You will insert that tool in the hole you have drilled. It will jam in place with a coarse reverse thread with sharp edges, and allow you to back out the threaded piece. It may help to drip some wd-40 in there as you are trying to back out the threaded piece.

Drilling that hole may itself be problematic, since there is a reasonable chance that part of the hacksaw was hard steel - by design to withstand the loads it must take to hold the blade. Worse, you must drill a hole into a surface that is jagged.

You may also be able to get the threaded piece out by other means, but you must do all of this without damaging the female threads in there, otherwise you will NEVER be able to fix the new piece in there.

As I said, unless you have a few important tools, this is all something that may be more easily repaired by simply buying a new hacksaw frame. Money solves everything, although a hacksaw frame is not that expensive. And if you don't know how to get that screw fragment out, then you probably don't have those tools, nor will you use them often enough in the future to merit buying them. At the same time, it is good to be able to repair things like this, so if you have the interest and the will to do this sort of work enough in the future, then go for it. But don't be at all surprised if you find it takes you considerably more time and expense than it is really worth to simply buy that new hacksaw frame.


How close to beam edge can I put light fixture nails?

The NEC code says that a box should be adequately supported.  This means the installer should read and follow directions provided by the box manufacturer.

In your example the box was secured adequately just not properly.  Proper installation would only allow the necessary overhang to flush up with the ceiling.

As for nails being too close to the edge, this should never be an issue if the installer were to follow the directions, know the NEC codes on luminare box support, and the structural integrity of the object they are attaching the box to.


What is the best "Tropical Fish Room" insulation?

Been there , done that. My room is a 13' X 13' corner of the garage . Mild climate ( Houston TX) I have 4" fiberglass in the walls, 2 walls of double glass windows , 8" of loose glass plus 4"  of foam in the ceiling . Summer is fine with a small room AC unit. But in winter there is condensation from the Al window frames and glass. The paneled walls are damp and get moldy, the ceiling (drywall) has black mold. In spring I seal the aquariums and wipe everything down with bleach rags. I have 125,75,39 and  20 gals with about 80% glass tops. I would recommend concentration on your interior surface finishes , understanding they will tend to get mold. I have no heat in the room other than the aquarium heaters ; I believe an electric space heater would help by reducing the relative humidity . We enter the garage through the room so there is some air exchange. When I built it ( 14 years ago) the EPA required the mold inhibitors to be removed from caulk, so the caulk around all the windows is black and not cleanable. I understand new inhibitors have been developed  , be sure to get "good" caulk.


When a 15-amp breaker switch seems to be sending too much power

Is there too much voltage/amperage going through this circuit?

There is most likely too much voltage, as ArchonOSX commented.

  How?

You miswired it and got 240V. You can check this using a voltage tester.

  Shouldnt the 15-amp breaker switch keep this from happening?

No, the job of the breaker is not to block too much voltage but to disconnect the circuit when too much current is flowing. This is mostly to protect the wiring in the wall from overheating and setting fire to your home. It won't protect a 100W incandescent bulb or anything similar. Those normally draw less than 1 Amp - far below the 15A breaker rating.

In the case of overvoltage, a higher current may briefly flow through your appliance/lamp but the appliance dies before the current reaches the breaker's limit.

  I am doing some wiring from a subpanel

Sorry to be a killjoy but I suggest you don't. At least until you have gained a higher level of understanding of household electricity. Since the higher voltage can fairly easily kill you, a family member or a visitor, you might want to pay an electrician to fix this for you properly and then consider taking some evening classes in the subject (if available in your part of the world).

Useful links

https://diy.stackexchange.com/tags/circuit-breaker/info
Why are my circuit breakers not tripping?
Where can I find information on slow blow breakers?
What is a GFI outlet used for, and where should I install them?


What should I consider regarding LAN wiring before building a house?

First off, your cabling doubles as your telephone wiring, so 2 per room is reasonable. Put a jack anywhere you think you may need a phone, computer, or media device (TV/Boxee/game console/etc).  If you know you are going to likely need a couple at some particular spot (eg, a home office, or your main TV watching area) then you can do that as well.

Run all the cables back to some main wiring closet or utility room. The "nice" way to do it is with a patch panel, but you certainly don't have to go that far. You can get away with just terminating the ends with regular jacks. In your wiring closet, you'll have a switch of some sort (either the 4-port switch built into most routers, or something bigger if you need more than 4 ports). You'll also need a small patch panel for telco wiring for your analog phones. If you want a particular jack in the house to be on your network, plug it into the switch. If you want it to be telco, plug it into the phone panel. Note you don't need every jack to be active, and you don't have to decide telco or network now.

Here's how I have my house terminated, including patch panel. Note I have a 16-port switch, then the patch panel. There's only one analog telco line (port 4), the rest of my phones are VoIP (there are two power injectors on top of the switch for a couple of those phones).

You may also consider running coax (RG-6) to TV areas, for use with cable or satellite, and you can terminate in the same boxes as network cables if you want. In my house, I have a box with 2 Cat5's and a coax in every room, but I would probably split them apart so there was one on each side of the room if I could. In my case, I was retrofitting most of the house and mostly just did interior walls.

In my opinion, Cat5e is good enough (it supports gigabit), but Cat6 works too (I personally don't think it's worth paying any extra for).

I would not be overly concerned with noise in a residential setting. Twisted pair wiring is resistant to noise anyway. Try to avoid prolonged parallel runs (less than 6" apart), but even if you do you're not likely to notice any problems.

As far as future-proofing, one word: Conduit.

Who knows what cable tech will be used 10 years from now. Install what is useful today. If you want to run a 1 gigabit network, and a couple 1080p video links to a flatscreen on the wall, then install cables that can support that. By the time 4K or holographic video or whatever is "current" 10 years from now takes over, there's a good chance there will be new cabling standards and all the most expensive cutting-edge cables you can buy now will be obsolete.

Case in point: 15 years ago, 10 Mbit was a common ethernet speed, and 100 Mbit was high-end. 802.3ab (gigabit over copper) was only introduced in 1999. 10 years ago, YPbPr component video was top-dog (HDMI only came on the market around 2003), and now it's getting hard to find gear that even has component video connections.

If you can afford it, sure, install Cat 6 or even Cat 7, but you have to realize any extra you spend on it is basically a bet that in 10 or 15 years, there is not going to be some new standard or totally different technology that makes it all obsolete. There's also a chance that you won't need it: I have gigabit throughout my house, but some of my (within 1-year-old) end-points (such as VoIP phones, and media streamers that play 1080p video) still only have 10 Mbit connections, because that's all they need.


I built a retaining wall in a situation very similar to what you described. In my case the wall drops approximately 12" over 40 feet. It has 3 courses of 6" Keystone wall blocks. The first course is mostly buried and the wall is about 12" high over most of it's length. I also put about 4" - 5" inches of drain rock behind it with a landscape fabric barrier.

This was 15 years ago and it seems to be holding up just fine. I would hope that the 4" blocks you want to use will be ok. However, I've worked with that size some doing garden walls and they are definitely less stable than the bigger blocks.

One other consideration here is aesthetics. Make sure looking at a retaining wall that isn't level doesn't bug you! Sometimes I look at mine and wish I had installed it level and stepped it down instead.

In the area where I live we have an assortment of gravity block retaining walls and the ones that follow the slope usually don't look as good in my opinion.

Here is a photo for reference:


Does it make sense to try mounting the jigsaw onto the table?

If it's a hand tool not designed to be mounted in that manner, I would advise against doing this as it has the potential to be dangerous. Think about what would happen if the tool were to become dislodged or the blade break off.  In the event of an emergency, how would you quickly shut it off? Saws like table saws and band saws should have an easily accessible shutoff button.


Why did city utility work require me to modify my faucet aerator?

The most likely scenario is that the work on the system disturbed sediment/debris that migrated to your home water piping, plugging up your faucet aerators. Rather than the "quarter turn" you describe (which would accomplish nothing) it is probable that the aerators were removed, flushed, and reinstalled to restore flow.

You should remain diligent, it is not uncommon for additional debris to continue to cause issues. Not just aerators but toilet fill valves as well.


How do I prevent white film forming on utensils in dishwashers?

is it wise to spend on dishwasher maintenance and water softeners when we have the water with too much hardness (900 ppm)?

Well, the whole point of a water softener is to reduce the hardness. So I find it odd that you ask if it's wise to use a water softener when your water is excessively hard... In short, yes, that's what you do to fix this problem, normally - install a water softener with appropriate capacity to deal with the hardness of your water, at least for the appliances you care about that for.


Will my warped(cupped) oak flooring flatten out after it dries?

Unfortunately, you will probably have to replace that section.


Turning fireplace from gas to wood burning

Verify that the size of the flue is adequate for wood burning. Wood burning fireplaces require larger flues than gas.

Also, you should understand that most of the heat will go up the flue compared to gas inserts.


Connect a channel drain to existing drainpipe

Check with Home Depot or Lowes or any Large Plumbing supply or hardware and they have what you need; the grating and the channel to pipe connectors


Is 'bonding agent' the same as 'admixture adhesive'?

I believe it is the same product and can be used in either job as a primer or as an additive to give the concrete more resiliency and plasticity. Your description makes it sound like the same product here in N.A. To be sure it can function as a primer try this test: using a paint brush apply it full strength to a clean out of sight concrete surface. If after several minutes it dries to a clear to opaque finish it's most likely a concrete primer (the brush that was used should now have a plastic film from the dried polymer). To use as one I recall that the newly applied primer should not be allowed to dry before the cement is placed. If it does I think you just recoat with another application. To use it as an admixture for better workability (in mortar mostly): pour the recommended amount into a clean bucket and than add the required amount of water for the batch to the same bucket and mix. Now add polymered water to the batch.


Should I cover my air conditioner for winter?

I have never covered mine and this article also seems to recommend not covering it:

  Your central air conditioning unit
  consists of a compressor and
  condensing unit placed outdoors in a
  metal housing. These units, built to
  resist the weather, generally do not
  need a cover. In fact, covers can
  cause problems because they trap
  moisture and create an inviting winter
  home for small animals.

  Professionals who service the units
  tell me that most of the damage they
  see in spring was caused by rodents
  living in the units and chewing on
  wiring.

  If your air conditioner is subject to
  falling ice or other debris, you could
  cover its top with a piece of plywood,
  plastic or metal held in place by a
  weight.
  Reference: http://misterfix-it.com/blog/?page_id=36#cac

They make a great point that a cover would provide a perfect winter home for animals which would cause damage to your air conditioner.


Can I decorate this skirting board install?

As for the gaps between the bottom of the base board (skirting) and the floor ... that is normally covered over with a base shoe molding. Base shoe is a small dimension molding that can be pressed down to fit the variations in the floor surface. Base shoe molding is normally only skipped when carpeting is going to be installed on the floor.

A nice trick regarding base shoe molding is to fully paint it (primer plus top coats) before it is installed. This way, after install, all that needs to be done is to fill the nail holes and do very small touch-up painting. It makes for a really clean look along the floor. If a pneumatic nailer is used to install the base show the nail hole size is minimized.

In days gone by it was common to just use flat boards for skirting instead of the types in common use today that have the top shaping features formed into the skirting. This allowed for the use of an additional small shaped molding called the top cap to finish off the top edge. Similar to the base shoe, the top cap was flexible and would cover the gap between the skirting board and the wall. In those days the idea to squirt calking compound along the top edge of base boards was unheard of.


Electrical code and/or common sense requirements for thermostat wire

The Code rules are in Parts I and III of Article 725

Thermostat wiring is the most commonly encountered example of what the NEC terms a Class 2 control circuit, and the rules for those are set out in Parts I and III of NEC article 725.  In your case, there are a few things to consider:

725.25 requires removal of accessible portions of abandoned control circuit cabling
Your work still needs to be "neat and workmanlike" as per 725.24 -- slobbering cable everywhere is no good
Strapping Class 2 cables to raceways for support is NFG -- 725.143 prohibits it
You don't need to support Class 2 cable in a wall cavity, however -- this is implied by 725.24 not mentioning any support requirements for concealed Class 2 cables


Is there an easy way to strip twin and earth cable?

There are tools which do the job for you. They will probably take a little adjustment when first used, but then they're fine. They are literally the easiest way to consistently strip mains cable.

Many years ago my father had a hand-held tool explicitly for stripping Australian 240V household wiring cable. It had two clamps, two blades and a two-part action. The first clamped the cable and made the cuts, the second separated the clamps, neatly stripping the end off the cable.

(I should add that I don't strip cable every day but I learnt how to use a small but very sharp pen knife to strip outer sheaths. A bit time-consuming, but I like doing it that way as it works on any sort of multi-core cable. And the trick to not nipping the conductor is to not cut quite all the way through the insulation: let the stripping effort break the last little bit.)


Why does netural wire on switch bypass circuit breaker?

You may want to pause to learn a little more about switches.

The first concept is that powered things need power.  Power moves in loops, you you need two wires.  It's perfectly possible to set up a power loop so it is hot-to-hot, in which case you really need to switch both wires.  A great example is an air conditioning condenser in North America.

However that is more expensive, so neutral is a concept we established to make wiring easier. We set up neutral so it is near ground potential, so it's considered not hazardous.  And so there is no need seen to switch it.

On an old fashioned light, the only thing that takes power is the light.  So the switch is a simple mechanical human-powered device, and it only needs to interrupt (break) one of the wires.  It's safer to interrupt the hot wire.

On a new fangled smart switch, the switch also takes power.  So now you have two powered devices, and both of them need a full loop of both hot and neutral.

The smart-switch needs always-hot and neutral so it can be always-ready.
The lamp proper needs switched-hot and neutral.

Note that switches did not need neutral before, and suddenly now they do.  That's a real problem for a lot of old in-house wiring.   Sometimes you just can't install the smart switch.

There are also smart switches which do not require neutral because they use "the incandescent cheat", exploiting a fact about incandescent bulbs where they act like nearly a dead short until enough current flows to get them hot.  The smart switch (on an incandescent light) can place itself in series with a turned-off bulb, and leak enough current to function itself.  However the power supplies in CFLs and LEDs are designed as voltage devices not current devices, and respond to "the incandescent cheat" in strange and unpredictable ways.

There's one more concept that comes up a lot.  Why doesn't neutral have a circuit breaker?

That concept entirely relies on the notion that hots and neutrals should be married monogamously. That is, every hot should have 1 partner neutral and use only that neutral to return current. The neutral is the same wire size as the hot.  If this is done properly, the neutral cannot overload unless the hot is also overloaded in exact proportion.  Since the hot has overcurrent protection, that will protect the neutral also.  That's the concept.

Of course that does not account for people who don't respect that concept.  I see circuits all the time where a device is wired with the intended hot, but any "neutral of convenience".  The easiest way to detect this is by adding a GFCI/RCD to the circuit and putting a load on every outlet.  The GFCI compares current flow on "hot" to "neutral" and trips if they are not equal.


Do I need to protect all wiring in an attic when adding a permanent ladder?

I have never had an AHJ confront me about exposed romex in an attic with or without a permanent ladder. One quick note though, if you are laying down plywood Make sure there are no electrical cables laying across the joist where they may be pinched and shorted. Notch the joist and use nail plates or reroute the cables.

Good luck


Should I install hardwood flooring or cabinets first?

There are several factors to consider. Buckling would be the least concern if the hardwood floors are installed properly. I would lay the floors first and then install the cabinets. I have been involved in the construction of hundreds of new homes and we have always laid the hardwood floors first.

Appliances - The height of the cabinets needs to be 36 inches from the floor. The appliances will need to be the same height. Do you really want to be forced with having a lip in front of all the appliances? You would basically be sealing them in. Imagine having to pull out a refrigerator when it's boxed in with hardwood.
Labor - In relation to the appliances, you would need to place some plywood, etc. underneath the cabinets and appliances to raise them up. What would be the point? Both options probably cost about the same.
Leaks - Imagine an unnoticed sink leak. If water runs under that flooring you will definitely have some buckling issues to deal with. A sink leak on a hardwood floor would be bad anyway, but you would be creating an easier way for the water to enter underneath the hardwood.
Insects - Roaches love cracks and crevices. You would be creating a welcoming environment for all manner of insects given the warmth and moisture from your appliances.
Remodeling - Hardwood flooring will outlast the cabinets. You might also want to change cabinets someday for a different style. You will be faced with having to go back with the exact size cabinets.


Can an LED light sold in US be used where voltage is 220?

The answer for the specific bulb you linked in the question is no.  However, similar-looking bulbs are available for 220V.   Search for "vintage edison led bulb" in the destination country or any 220V country to get one that will work and it's more likely to have an appropriate base for your lighting fixtures there too.
From the "Specifications" on the linked page:


Yes, and I've done this myself.

But not two outlets.  The generator side one is an inlet.

(These also come in a form-factor that is the same as an outlet).

From the inlet, you use in-the-wall wiring to go to as many outlets and lights as makes sense for a single circuit.

If you want 2 circuits, you can have 2 inlets, and plug each one into a different pole on the generator.

If you want >=2 circuits, you can have 1 inlet that is 20/30A 120/240V such as a NEMA 14-20 or 14-30, and then feed that into a service panel in the house.  From there you can branch off as many circuits as you please!

PS. Once you get sick of hauling in fuel and maintaining the generator, look into solar+battery systems, and wire as many loads as possible to be able to work on low voltage DC.  Lighting at the very least. LED lighting is your friend.


How do we remove tile spacers that are stuck in the mortar between the tiles?

Pull them out with pliers or tap them out with a chisel/pick/flat screwdriver and hammer.  Most of the time if you clamp them with pliers and wiggle they will come out.


Recessed light that are for incandescents have a built in thermal detector, over the years the eventually give up and the can stops working. The outside has more extreme conditions so it stands to reason they would give up first. The detectors are generally located on the exterior of the can. If these cans are original installations and not remodel cans, you can actually remove the small screws towards the bottom of the can. You may have to remove the trim first.

Once that is done you will be able to see the detector on the side and the junction box mounted on the can frame. This box has snap off covers so you can get to the wiring. Check to see if you have power to this box.  Unfortunately they stopped making replacement thermal protectors so you will need to replace the can, if you find power in the box. If you do not have power in the box then I am afraid the only way you can find the problem is to track it down (see Michael Karas).


Start out by sanding the seams and lumpy areas to determine if it's just a lousy taping job. If so, rip off the old tape and redo. If the drywall is droopy, you'll have to attach it to the joists with more screws. If the paper is separating from the drywall surface, you'll have to replace the drywall with some new drywall.


Why can't I put a load between hot and the ground line?

Because the grounding system is a safety system, and is designed to only carry current during a fault.  If you use a grounding conductor as a grounded (neutral) conductor, you'll have current flowing on water pipes, faucets, appliance frames, metal electrical enclosures, and anything else that's grounded.

Doing this could lead to property damage, injury, and/or death.


How to splice wires on an Electric dog fence

To be sure I've answered your question, yes you can use electricians corrugated metal conduit.  You'd have to connect a ground wire and tie it off as close to the transmitter's (the wall socket that the perimeter wires connect to) ground as possible.  For your second question, I'd go to home depot and peruse the electrical section.  When I installed my invisible fence, I used either the crimpable ones, called a butt splice, but found that the wire rusted out and dropped the signal to ground in a rain storm, -or- the new fancy ones like the following: AlumiConn 3-Port.  If this sounds a little "hack-ish" don't worry, if you study the electric fence's supplied manual and inferred method you'll see they are just as bad.  This is low voltage stuff, so you won't get shocked.

So,... now that your question is answered, I have to say, the conduit is overkill.  I would think that 15 feet of the twisted wire is more than sufficient.  The longer the twisted section with tighter twists the better, but my dogs never got zapped once walking out of the garage where this was installed, so I recommend trying it (testing it without the dog collar on the dog of course) and see if it is an issue before you waste lots of time and money on trying to attenuate a signal that may not be a problem in the first place.  While the electrician "hackery" of these electric fence companies may appear a little unnerving, they have definitely overcome the problem of needing "deadzones" in the fence quite well.


Can you cap a chimney to reduce moisture and still use the chimney with a gas fire?

I'm pretty sure that you can get caps that allow you to still use a gas fire.

Consult an expert though.


When adding new light to existing lights, only 1 or the other works

There's a serious defect in this installation.
All the places where cables come through a knockout hole, you can't do it like that.  You need to fit a cable clamp.

For the cables entering on the right, there's a special bracket that comes with this style of box that provides a dual cable clamp. I gather you removed that for this initial hookup; make sure it gets back on.
Where's power coming from???
My initial impression, based on your symptom, is that you tried to use that diagram of yours, except you attached it to a switch loop instead of to a power source.  A switch loop may seem like a power source when the switch is off; if you decided it was a power source because of testing, test again with the switch on.
The only saving grace I see is it appears the older black cable is a /3 cable.  It might be black for always-hot, white for neutral, and red for switched-hot; that is a modern type of switch loop that you would be able to use effectively.  However you seem very unclear on the function of the various wires.  We'll need to do more work to identify them.
Honestly, I am getting the impression that this setup is a former 3-way switch group.  This might be saveable; but there's another question: which switch did you just eliminate?  Some switches are required by law.  Every room must have a switch in the usual location (you know where to grasp when you enter a darkened room for the very first time, right? That's not by accident). Further, stairways MUST have a switch at top AND bottom.  You can't eliminate those mandatory switches.


The problem is that toaster, Keurig, microwave are all high power devices. They may only need power for a few minutes at a time, but when they do need power, it is in the several hundred watt range. Battery power (short of Tesla PowerWall) won't do you much good.
This is actually why code calls for a minimum of 2 countertop circuits in a kitchen. But many older kitchens (including mine before renovation) simply don't have that - they often have just 1 circuit, sometimes shared with other rooms.
You have learned why extension cords are not a good idea for long-term usage. The only really good fix is to get additional circuits run to the kitchen. Since this is a rental, in most places this needs to be done professionally. Not DIY, not by your landlord, but by you (with landlord's permission) or your landlord hiring a licensed electrician.
Contact your landlord. If they won't help - perhaps claiming (often correctly, but not always) that the kitchen is OK because it is grandfathered under older code. The catch is that pushing harder on the code issue (e.g., almost certainly applies if the kitchen was built or renovated in the last 30 years) may result in your landlord finding an excuse (often not hard to do) to kick you out, or to drag things on for a while until renewal time and then simply not renew your lease. It gets even trickier if it this is an unofficial rental. So things can get tricky and beyond a simple request you may not want to pursue it.
The next best thing is to use an extension cord that never goes down to the floor and that is of the correct size - minimum 14 AWG for a 15A circuit, minimum 12 AWG for a 20A circuit. I would use a short cord (probably 3 - 8 feet long). Finding such a cord may be non-trivial - in a quick search, the short 12 AWG cords all have 5-20 connectors - i.e., designed for 20A receptacles and devices. But you could have 15A receptacles (legally) on a 20A circuit, and most of your devices will be 15A devices. So it gets complicated to do this in a reasonably safe way.
The temptation is to use a multiple-outlet strip like commonly used for computers. They are inexpensive and easy to find. The problem is that these outlet strips, even when reasonable quality, are designed for relatively low power usage. In fact, using them for microwave ovens and toasters can actually damage them because they are often designed for much smaller loads.


how to cut multiple 2x4 to a same length with a circular saw

What you just described (cutting multiple pieces at the same time) is in the construction field referred to as "gang cutting". And, yes, if your only power tool is a circular saw, than to get the most precise and exact lengths, cut them in a gang cut. What you should first do is make an initial gang cut at the bottom so as to square the ends. Than measure and mark the length.  After they are clamped strike a line with a square across all pieces. If you have a steady hand slowly begin the cut being sure to keep the saw blade to the waste side of the line. Or clamp a guide fence down so that when the saws base plate edge rides along it the blade is at the appropriate mark (usually 3- 3 1/2 inches from inside blade edge to outside plate edge).


Can I cut stringers on a closed stringer staircase without affecting the structural integrity?

Cutting your stringers that way will absolutely weaken them. Your "After" diagram shows the space under the stairs filled in with something; if that "something" does a good job in supporting the newly-weakened stringers, then you may be OK.


Can I use cement accelerator to decrease setup time of modified thinset

It is obvious that there is a large concern about getting air to your thinset.  The problem that you have is that there is too much variance in the equation to properly answer this.  Porcelain plus Ditra will cause quite a barrier but there is also airflow of the room and temperature.

The problem isn't the use of the accelerator, it is the effectiveness of it and how it might effect the outcome.  I have used accelerators for thinset before and have had mixed results.  Well since I didn't live in the houses I am not sure about the results but on at least 2 jobs my crew used accelerators and the thinset became brittle to the floor upon drying.  I would personally never use them and for tile that large I would give it 3-4 days.  But I am risk adverse especially when the risk I am taking is mitigated by me doing "nothing" for a couple of days.

I think your concrete accelerator will work - as far as drying faster.  However will it cure faster or cause an issue with the cure.  I think that will be product/chemical dependent and has to do with the ratios you are using.  Someone may have a better answer than mine but they would have to have tested specific products and ratios and give you their experience - not thinking you will get that but who knows.


You can cap the wires, and cover the box with a blank faceplate.  There's no problem with that, as long as the twist-on wire connectors are the correct size for a single wire.


Installing a shower flange in a subfloor

It probably doesn't matter much one way or the other since it's unlikely for water to get that far. I personally would not bother. Consider this: If water were to get that far, you would want to know about this and take action. If it's sealed, water could just sit there unnoticed, rotting out anything it touches.

If it leaked down and stained the ceiling, you would notice fairly soon and take measures to stop it. Stained drywall ceiling is way more easier to repair than a rotted subfloor.


Should I be concerned about concrete/cement sealer fumes?

Get a canary if it dies you know you should not be there.
Seriously, some mixtures do release VOC’s (volatile organic compounds), and these are not good for you.
The adhesive in the pebble stone overlay I have used in the past is approved for indoor use but it stinks bad.
It takes about a week to off-gas and this is most likely what you are smelling. Keeping a positive pressure so the air is pushed out from that side of the house will help. I believe the stuff I used sets in 3-4 hours and is cured in 24 hours but stinks for about a week (it gets better as time goes on)
I would ask the contractor for the name of the bonding agent they are required by law to provide the safety data sheet used to be called MSDS (material safety datasheet) you should be able to find a document that provides any known hazards like VOC’s the hazard limit and all the information on the chemicals.
I would say if they were working without respirators you will be fine but I worked without respiratory protection around both asbestos and lead for ~30 years before the current recommendations for masking and isolation were made.


How do I lubricate these spring loaded hinges?

If dry graphite is problematic to apply you can also find it suspended in a liquid for use in locks. Lightweight oil or volatile lubricants flow into the lock leaving the suspended graphite behind when they evaporate. (Dry graphite, if you haven't had a reason to use it before, is also very easy to "shoot" by squeezing the tube. It's a very fine powder.)

A trip to the local hardware store will be a big help since you can see all of your options. "Zoom spout turbine oil" is probably not primarily used on turbines; I think people like the long, flexible tube.


How should I wire an outlet and 2 switches in the same box with a hot white wire?

You're going to have to do some work to figure this out.
I see three cables coming into the box. One of those is the 'feed'. The feed should be whatever is 'hot' if the power is on to the box. You need to find that first and isolate it so you can work safely- cap them. off.

You also said one of the white wires is 'hot'. That's usually only done when making a 'runner', aka a wire that heads to a three-way switch (two or 3 switches can turn on a light). If you ONLY have a white wire as 'hot' when the circuit breaker is on, please stop, as that IS NOT NORMAL. Either way, said white wire SHOULD have a black marker or electrical tape around it to designate 'runner'. It's possible that an earlier wire downstream was flipped around accidentally and you've energized the neutral by accident.

Once you find the hot/neutral pair for the main circuit, the switch needs 2 wires out- hot and runner, the second switch (if it's a single) needs just a single line out, and the outlet needs a hot and neutral.

The outlet will be piggybacked to feed the two switches, most likely. You'll also need to piggy the neutral to the return from the lights so the circuit can be completed.

I know this sounds complicated but it's really important to know what wires are what- and if you aren't comfortable with that or don't have the tools, you need to hire an electrician or find someone that does- especially since you've said a white wire was hot.


AC Gearmotor 115 Nameplate RPM 4.0 RPM Max. Torque 75.0 in-lb trips breaker when switch is turned off

I'm pretty sure you wired your switch wrong, and "off" (so you think) is a dead short.


There really is no cure for inadequate duct work that involves making use of the existing ducts.  If one looks at the fine print of super efficient systems, there is always a qualification that the units must be installed correctly to achieve the rated performance.  Good duct work is a big part of correct installation.  If the duct work is marginally bad, adding an inline booster fan to push more airflow where it is needed might work, but that kind of solution reduces both efficiency and reliability.

Ductless mini-splits are sometimes a good option where existing ducts are not usable.  Some mini-splits offer the highest efficiencies available and they also are equipped with inverters that provide variable capacity control that adjusts on the fly.  Also, different models of the indoor portion of mini-splits are available to satisfy different situations.


If you have a saddle valve clamp that is closed yet still letting water through, you may simply have to turn the handle a bit more with force to drive the pin tighter to the copper pipe.
HOWEVER: If it instead breaks you have a bigger problem to solve.
If you only wish to temporarily block water in a copper tube, squashing it flat with a tight vice grip pliers can work until a replacement saddle clamp (or better a genuine T fitting with valve) is installed. A leaking copper tube can easily be spliced unless corrosion was the cause.
There are many variables and I don't have enough info from you to know exactly what is happening and what your ultimate goal is..
Take some cell phone photos to post of the leak and of the valve. Or bring those to the hardware store (but confirm the skill of the clerk before you listen!). All the needed parts are easily purchased. It can be fixed by anyone comfortable with a screwdriver and adjustable wrench.


There are industrial duty lamps they are built to take some vibration. We use these in areas that have vibration. They do cost more but hold up better than off the shelf lamps.


When I am doing demo work I usually pull the trim, if the cill is in good shape I might not remove it unless changing the look like going from painted to stained wood finish.


Simple rail & hooks solution to attach a bin to the inside of a cupboard

Almost all plastic trash bins have a turned over lip around the top. Why not make a French cleat slightly narrower than the width of the bin and hang the bin by its lip on the cleat?

A French cleat is a long narrow board whose front edge is higher than its back edge. A mating board with the reverse configuration is then hung on it. In this case, the bin lip is the mating piece.

You could use a small rotating clip, such as a plastic mirror clip, to keep the bin from bouncing off the cleat. Just don't tighten the retaining screw too much.


Maybe I am just stating the obvious, but the diagram you have posted is correct. If you followed the diagram wiring scheme, then everything in your basement bathroom is working correctly.

This means that even though you tried to follow the diagram you have wired something incorrectly. You need to verify every conductor in you circuit and follow them through to find your error. You can safely do this with the power off and a continuity tester. It might help to have someone assist you. So check each wire and its path and location. I am guessing that somehow you have installed the power source conductor on the wrong post or posts. You can verify your source conductor with a voltmeter or non contact indicator.

One other thing that bothers me:

  1 fan/light combo (14-3 going to this on a three way switch)

You named the fan/light combo correctly, then called it a three way switch. A three way switch is not a fan/light combo. A fan /light combo is a single device that has dual single pole switching actions. One for the light and one for the switch. Just make sure you have the right device.

Good luck and stay safe.


New dryer makes concerning noise when drum spins

One thing that I wonder is that when they ship appliances like dryers with big moving parts, they often have little plastic or Styrofoam blocks used to hold those parts in place during shipping and you have to remove them when you install it. Sounds almost like someone forgot to remove one of them.


How can I make these semi-gloss paint patches blend with the wall?

Since you have the original paint and it appears to be good, I would get a roller and work the entire area with a 2nd coat, I would work from the patches out so the roller is not putting as much paint out towards the edges this will help to fade the change in new to old and the second coat should cover the patches to not be noticable, with this said you may always be able to see the patch because you know where the repair was. But some one else may not be able to see the spots.


Rain Got To Untreated Wood Furniture Project - What to Do?

Unfortunataly there's very little to do but wait and see.  Whether it warps or discolors or both will be revealed in the next 2 or three days.


Can ultrasonic humidifiers be used in a bypass setup for a whole house humidifier?

I've thought the same but think you want a fairly big fan.
You are fighting to keep the ultrasonic droplets from condensing on surfaces. You need to supply enough air flow for them to evaporate and not condense. Position the output somewhere where a dribble caused by condensation won't wreck a motor or electronics


Replacing light fixture UK unable to determine which wire is which

One of those cables goes to a switch loop. You need to find out which. Open up the switch that controls this light and see what wire colours it has.

If the brown and blue (new colours) are the switch then connect

red to brown (which takes live to the switch)
blue to the "L" terminal of the the light - blue is switched live so you must  put red tape around the blue wire.
black to the "N" terminal of the light (neutral)
put a green/yellow sleeve over the bare earth wires and connect them using an approved connector. If the lamp has metal parts, they need to be connected to these earths too. The middle terminal in your second photo would probably be intended for this. Check for continuity between all metal parts and the earth wires.

UK Wiring colours

              Old       New
 Live         Red       Brown
 Neutral      Black     Blue


What type cable and size should I use for my shop?

We simply need more information:  How far to the shop?  Is the meter base at the shop?  A picture/diagram of property would be helpful; include distances.

If the panel shown here is equipped with a main breaker, there is no need for an additional disconnect.  I see no need for the pole as all.  Just strike to the mast.

If it is indeed 400-feet to the meter base you are going to have a fairly serious voltage drop problem.  The voltage is based upon the amount of actual current used at any one time.

If the pole is required for ground clearance than don't splice at the pole just strike to the pole and continue to the weather head.

Technically you need a quad-plex or 4-wires as the feeder.  After the service the neutral is separated from the ground. I would recommend an underground feeder.  I would put it down 4-5 feet for protection.

If you could give me the estimated max current draw at any one time we could recommend a wire size. That means that when you strike an arc with the welder what is the actual current draw of the welder on the circuit.  And when the pump actually runs and is pumping full bore, what is the current draw on the pump motor. And when the compressor is running nearing the shut-off point what is that motor drawing.  And what is the actual amp draw on the lights? Then throw in 10 or 12 amps for power and bench tools per number of men that will be using the building at any one time. With this we can give you wire size.

Do you ever plan to heat the building?


Leaking sink drain. Possible defective drain assembly?

Teflon thread sealant would be my first choice, with pipe dope running second.
Unscrew the pipe from the brass fitting, clean up the threads, apply the sealant and reassemble.
The Teflon sealant also acts as a lubricant making it easier to tighten the connection.


When cutting granite does a diamond blade need to be wet?

Whether you use water or not is entirely dependent on the blade, not the material (unless you are cutting something soluble in water).  Some binders used in diamond blades and bits take heat better than others, and the trade off is how the cut works (aggressive material removal, smooth finish, ability to cut heterogeneous materials, etc.)

Do not use water with a dry cut blade, and don't run a wet blade dry - follow the recommendations from the manufacturer. AKA, RTFM.

If you do it incorrectly, your blade will either not cut, wear out too fast, burn the material or the blade sintering, or just blow apart entirely.

And remember, lower speed and less pressure make for a slower, but safer, more precise cut with far less dust and wear on the tool and the blade.


Why did my newly applied paint run and not adhere to the wall?

My guess would be that you didn't prime and that you tried to paint over oil paint with a latex paint or some incompatible combination of paints like that.

You should figure out what type of paint was used for the original coat and purchase a suitable primer to go on top, and then apply your new color.  If you really aren't sure, someone at a paint store can recommend a primer that is suitable for a range of scenarios.

Based on the picture I would probably avoid a paint-primer combination product.

Primer is typically pretty cheap so aside from the additional labor and time, it should not add considerable costs to your project.