How can I best divide a connected two room into separate bedrooms?

If you are considering separating the alcove in the first picture into a separate room, you may have a problem with building codes, and more importantly, safety. Even if the alcove has access to the hallway, it does not appear to have a window, which may be considered a hazard, both as to air and alternate egress in the case of a fire or other emergency.

You need to check with the housing or building authority before separating space.

You also may have a problem with your landlord, depending on what your lease says. Usually renters are not permitted to erect anything structural without permission.

If you are merely asking about a curtain for the archway, there are sound insulating curtains you can find online, but they are likely to reduce noise, not eliminate it.


You haven't found a clear answer because it's a matter of opinion and personal standards.

There's nothing wrong with doing so, if you're willing to accept that drywall is much less durable when moisture is involved, and has much less impact resistance than cementboard.

It's really that simple. I've seen entire commercial kitchens done with white drywall and 4" tile. Except for the areas behind sinks and where carts tend to bump it regularly, it works out fine.


Do you think my grinder will be enough for this? Should I buy new specific discs?

3mm? A number of abrasive wheels can cut that easily.

  Do you think my circle will have many imperfections? how could I refine it?

Depends on the diameter of the circle and how much control you have. Angle grinders have a high rotational inertia and wouldn't be my first pick for trying to cut a perfect circle. Maybe a smaller tool like a Dremel, or maybe a cutting torch might be better. I would practice on a piece first if you can.


Do I bond ground and neutral for a feed from a disconnect?

Since it's a subpanel, neutral and ground should be put on separate bars.  That's always the case.

If you are certain you have an ungrounded 3-wire feed, then you can jumper neutral and ground at the panel.  However you should be prepared to easily remove that jumper.

Not all grounds are wires. Metal conduit is a grounding path.

As soon as feasible, run a ground wire.  It doesn't need to be in the same cable or route as the feed.  If it's conduit, it can be fished with some difficulty. It also doesn't need to enter the house, if the house has a ground rod, it can go there instead.   As soon as you have retrofitted, remove the neutral-ground jumper.

Remember the detached outbuilding also needs its own ground rod.


Can I change which switch controls which light?

Why are light switches so often wired in the wrong order. For example,
  on a single board, the switch closest to the hallway is for the lounge
  while the switch closest to the lounge turns on the hallway light.

Because money. Paying someone else less money to do a set amount of work is a way to increase profits. The electricians for tract (non custom) homes need to do the set amount of work in the least amount of time to increase or even have a profit. There is no motivation for them to care about the switch order and a motivation to not care as doing so would take time.

  Is this less likely to happen in luxury homes?

If the luxury home is a tract home, then probably not. If a custom home, then absolutely! I would even say that it does not happen in high end homes as the home owner is very involved and the electricians are used to working with such clients, everyone knows that the details are important

  Can I fix this easily myself?

Yes, if the wire tails are long enough. It can be as easy as pulling off the cover, pulling the mount screws and moving the switches (no rewiring). Turn off the power at the panel first of course


Does it make sense to put quality (=pricy) underlayment over 3/4" subfloor+1/2" extra plywood layer?

I would.  I put underlayment for all engineered.  I spend about .25 a sq/ft for my high quality rolls so not sure what you are looking at.  The point of the underlayment for engineered flooring is to provide a surface for the wood to slide across (wood on wood gets stuck sometimes) and to decrease the noise between hardwood and subfloor.

Imagining your situation I feel like you might hear Clydesdale clicking and clacking if you don't install anything.


What can I build/use for a door in an old barn?

One simple and classic option would be a sliding barn door:

You can make the door whatever size you want. You attach a rail to the outside of your shed, some rollers to the top of the door, a handle, and perhaps some retaining or locking hardware. You can make the door in a traditional rails/stiles approach or just cut a piece of plywood to size and paint it.

Here's one idea for a cool look with moderate effort. I haven't done this but am considering it for some new shed doors.

Get a piece of plywood and cut it to size.
Attach 1x6 wood along its outer edge so it looks like it has stiles.
Cut some lights. You can do simple rectangular ones or get fancy with a jigsaw and cut in some fun designs, your initials, whatever. Because you're working with a piece of plywood you have a lot of options.
Prime & paint with good exterior paint.
Attach some acrylic/plexiglass behind your lights (glue, caulk, and/or window glazing compound depending on your design, plus a few screws around the edges).


Can 1 24v transformer support 2 smart thermostats.

I have run multiple thermostats and even a 24v damper off a single transformer.  Most thermostats are very low draw but to make sure look up the power requirements for each and add them together. Now compare that to the transformer wattage/ amperage. If less is needed from the 2 stats than the transformers rated output you are good to go. If the same or more than the transformers output you can get a larger single or another smaller transformer (usually cheaper) and have 1 for each stat.


Can I modify a load bearing triple stud?

It is not safe to simply cut a hole in the studs, and while the safe probably would transfer the load, you do not know that the safe was designed to transfer vertical loads, or how it will react.  The consequences of a mistake here could be severe long term.

Therefore the proper course of action is to reframe the wall.  Generally you would do this by adding a lintel (a RIGID horizontal beam that spans an opening typically over a window or door) at the top and bottom of the wall wide enough to transfer load to either side of the existing column, and then add new columns on either side of the existing post to carry that now transferred load down to the floor lintel and thus to the underlying support.


I would leave the copper attached to the CPVC, if taint broke don't fix it.
I would cut it down a little so your new valves are not so high, just below the drain pipe.
You can use compression, solder or push to connect valves for 1/2" copper.
I would add support for the pipes,  put a piece of wood horizontal on the wall and use copper pipe standoff's or straps to secure the pipes and keep them from flexing when using the valves.


It is really hard to tell just what may have happened from the very brief description but clearly some short or over current situation has happened. Here are some possibilities to consider:

The replacement heating element may be the wrong one. An element that is designed for operation at a voltage of say 120 VAC would draw around twice as much current if it were connected to 240 VAC and as you can see that could trip the breaker.
In the replacement process the wires that feed power to the element connection point may have been flexed in a way that the insulation has cracked and the wires shorted together. A direct short will lead to a breaker trip too.
And finally this case, which is actually most likely, that during replacement of the element a wire that feeds power to one end of the element has had its insulation compromised or a bare part of the electrical connection has been allowed to touch the metal frame structure of the oven. Thus creates a short between the hot lead of the element and the GND of the oven structure and would cause the breaker to trip.

In any case this is a pretty dangerous situation and you should not try repeated activation of the circuit breaker to see if the problem still persists. The oven should be fully unplugged from its outlet and appropriate inspection and trouble shooting needs to be done to see where the short circuit or overload is coming from. If you do not have the tools and/or experience to proceed then it may be advisable to call a professional appliance repair technician in to help.


Is my 2-gang switch box over-full with 5 cables?

Your wires and devices need 18x2.25 = 40.5 cubic inches.

What you have there is a 4x4 square metal box.  If it's 1-1/2" deep it'll be 21 cubic inches.  Otherwise I'd expect to see a cubic inch number stamped onto it. There's also a 2-gang mud ring of, well, it sure ain't 19.5 cubic inches!

Note that the mud ring does not come all the way out to the wall surface.  It is quite shy of that.  This is improper installation, so you need to replace the mud ring anyway.  So replace the mud ring with one of the correct height, even if it doesn't have enough cubic inches.  We have one more trick.

Lastly, you can obtain a surface conduit starter box e.g. Legrand Wiremold.  That will provide some additional cubic inches (depending on its height).

If you get the statutorially needed cubic inches, you should have enough room for the dimmers.


Around here they are generally only used in commercial construction or in buildings where flamable building materials like wood are not allowed.  Wood is just much easier to work with generally.

Some advantages of metal over wood:

They don't burn.
They are always straight.
Easier to run electrical through (come with holes, so no drilling needed).

And wood over metal:

Easier to work with (cut, shape, toe nail, etc).
Stronger.  You can't use metal studs for load bearing walls.
While metal is generally cheaper than wood, the extra accessories needed (special boxes, conduit, etc) can make it more expensive.
Wood is generally easier to get - most of the big home shops don't carry steel studs.


Represurise Vaillant Turbomax gas boiler - turning filling screws, but won't fill

For anyone who experiences the same: It turned out to be a blocked filling loop. We removed the filling loop (flexible silver pipe) and pocked a thin wire through it until the blockage was dislodged. Reattached and all now works fine.


98% of small leaks are water getting into the flashing area between the chimney and the flashing or the flashing and the shingles.

The flashing sealant you have should work fine - although you need to make sure for a caulking type sealant that this is applied liberally and squeezed into the gaps.  I often use FlexSeal for smaller leaks because of its expanding properties.

If you post a picture of your chimney I can highlight where you need to seal.


How should I configure my plumbing with PEX?

First of all the information I'm providing is based on my local codes, your local codes my very.
Quick Answer
You will need to feed the lower floor manifolds with 3/4" PEX inlets and 1/2" outlets. No manifold would be required for the upper bathroom as only 1/2" PEX is needed for both the hot and cold, just tee off the 1/2" lines to feed the sink, tub and water closet. All individual fixture runs would be 1/2" as well.
Detailed Answer
Using manifolds and running to each fixture individually is called a homerun system. This can be less labour but may have a higher material cost. It all depends on how far the groups of fixtures are from the manifold. This method is typically used when the pipes are run through the slab.
Depending on the location of the fixtures, you may want to look at a truck and branch system. This is were you would run two mains and branch off to the fixtures as it passes them. The mains would get smaller as the fixtures are taken off.
Water lines are sized so that the velocity within the pipe is kept below a set point. This is to limit the wear and tear on the pipe material. Different materials can handle different velocities at different temperatures. The max velocity for copper and PVC is 5ft/sec for cold and 4ft/sec for hot. PEX pipe can handle a maximum velocity of 8ft/sec for both hot and cold.
Fixture units (FU) are given to typical fixtures. A FU is a design factor that is used to represent the typical requirement of a particular fixture (it is not a flow rate but).
Fixture Units for Private Use Fixtures (no flush valves):

|--------------------------------------------------------|
| Fixture           |    Hot FU  |  Cold FU  |  Combined |
|--------------------------------------------------------|
| Bathroom Group    |      4.50  |     4.50  |      6.00 |
| Bathtub/Shower    |      1.50  |     1.50  |      2.00 |
| Clothes Washer    |      2.25  |     2.25  |      3.00 |
| Dishwasher        |      3.00  |        -  |      3.00 |
| Hose Bib          |         -  |     7.00  |      7.00 |
| Kitchen Sink      |      2.00  |     1.50  |      1.50 |
| Water Closet      |         -  |     3.00  |      3.00 |
| Lavatory          |      0.75  |     0.75  |      1.00 |
|--------------------------------------------------------|

The above table lists the common residential fixtures and their FU. You can see that a bathroom can be considered one group and has a lower FU then the sum of it's parts. This is because they are typically used by one person at a time so it is unlikely that all fixtures will be running at the same time.
Once we have the FUs, we can look up a sizing chart that will tell us the maximum FUs that a pipe of a set size and material can handle while staying below the maximum velocity. You can view these tables in the Domestic Water Sizing Tables (For Small Buildings) section below.
Based on this information, we can size your distribution system as follows for PEX:

|----------------------------------------------------|
| Fixture Group        |      Hot      |    Cold     |
|                      |    FU  Size   |    FU  Size |
|----------------------------------------------------|
| Upstairs Bathroom    |  4.50   1/2   |  4.50   1/2 |
| Downstairs Bathroom  |  4.50   1/2   |  4.50   1/2 |
| Kitchen              |  4.50   1/2   |  1.50   1/2 |
| Half Bathroom        |  0.75   1/2   |  3.75   1/2 |
|----------------------------------------------------|

So you can see that the pipes feeding each group of your fixtures will only need to be 1/2". Each individual fixture would also be 1/2". However, depending on how the groups of fixtures are located relative to each other, you may require 3/4" pipes to feed more then one group. The total FU of your house is 14.25 Hot FU (3/4"), 21.25 Cold FU (1") and 28.00 Combined FU (1"). The Combined FU is used to size the section of pipping from the cold line into the house to the hot water tank. Don't be alarmed that the cold and combined are sized at 1". This is due to the allowance of the hose bib, which our code now calls for 7 FU. This is too high and has been causing issues in large buildings with hose bibs on small decks, in that the lines are oversized and do not properly flow, allowing for growth in the water. Without the hose bib, your cold is only 3/4".

Domestic Water Sizing Tables (For Small Buildings)

Minimum pressure available - 60 PSI at property line. (Greater
acceptable).
Pressure reducing valve set at 60 PSI minimum.
Pressure loss for meter (3 PSI), maximum building height 25 ft. (10.82 PSI)
Minimum 0.115 PSI for friction loss. If less than 0.115 PSI, system
must bp fully engineered by detailed method or there will not be
sufficient water to supply the fixture.

Pipe Flow Velocity Table For: Copper & PVC:

|---------------------------------------------|
| Pipe Size | 5ft/sec (cold)  | 4ft/sec (hot) |
|           |    GPM      FU  |    GPM    FU  |
|---------------------------------------------|
| 4"        | 186.65     850  | 149.32   600  |
| 3"        | 106.16     400  |  84.93   295  |
| 2-1/2"    |  74.37     245  |  59.50   170  |
| 2"        |  48.23     120  |  38.58    81  |
| 1-1/2"    |  27.72      46  |  22.18    34  |
| 1-1/4"    |  19.59      29  |  15.67    22  |
| 1"        |  12.86      18  |  10.29    14  |
| 3/4"      |   7.54       9  |   6.03   7.5  |
| 1/2"      |   3.64     3.5  |   2.91   2.5  |
|---------------------------------------------|

Pipe Flow Velocity Table For: PEX, PE, PB, CPVC & Ductile Iron:

|-----------------------------------|
| Pipe Size | 8ft/sec (cold & hot)  |
|           |    GPM            FU  |
|-----------------------------------|
| 4"        |    300          1800  |
| 3"        |    170           750  |
| 2-1/2"    |    152           500  |
| 2"        |     78           265  |
| 1-1/2"    |     44           102  |
| 1-1/4"    |     30            54  |
| 1"        |     20            30  |
| 3/4"      |     12            17  |
| 1/2"      |    5.8             7  |
|-----------------------------------|


To get something that lasts on high traffic touch areas like cabinets you need to go with oil based paint.  The latex stuff just doesn't hold up and it will come off or get rubbery with water, changes in temperature (near oven), or a lot of touching (oils and rubbing it).  This is especially true when latex is on oil without being primed right.

If the cabinet doors are nice I would try to strip them.  A more practical solution is buying an oil based primer made to go over latex.  And then an oil based paint on top of that.  Do your worst offending door.  See how the results are after a few weeks or a couple of months and then do the rest.


My best suggestion from personal experience and opinion, is to stay away from adhesives. Mechanical fasteners (nearly) always have a method of removal that doesn't destroy the things it's fastening. You can pull a common nail, back out a screw, or punch through a finish screw.

In my house I've had similar things happen, and it's usually due to the wood expanding or contracting in such a way that the finish nail has pulled through the wood and is no longer mechanically squeezing the top piece to the substrate.

A few (2-3) well placed, ringed finish nails would go a long way. I prefer "panel nails" for this kind of work, so long as they aren't too long. Their ringed shanks tend to hold well.

If you can locate studs or other timber behind your trim, I especially like specialty "finishing screws" with counter threaded shanks near the head to minimize that "swollen" area around the head.


#4 THWN aluminum is exactly what I'd use.
As far as voltage drop, 150' isn't far enough for voltage drop to become a concern.  I don't even run the numbers until 180' :)
#4 THWN aluminum breakers at 70A (it's rated for 65A but you round up to the next breaker size which exists).
Because it's capable of 70A, you need a 70A ground wire, which is #8 copper or #6 aluminum.   If aluminum, it must be insulated.  You're allowed to use #4 aluminum, and the benefit is that you get to use black wire and mark it green with phase tape.  #8 or #6 ground would need to be actually green or bare.


Why does some polyurethane need to be wiped off, and what happens if I don't?

There's a chance you were using wiping varnish or a "tung oil finish" (not really tung oil). It's basically thinned down poly that can be left on in a thick coat, or the excess can be wiped off after a coat is applied.

The warning to not let the finish dry without wiping is probably good advice to eliminate the possibility of runs and drips.

Popular Woodworking has a good article on the history of wiping varnish.


Proper way to install double-layer of subfloor?

Fasten your first layer plywood subfloor as you normally should.

The second (top) layer of plywood joints should not coincide with the joists and the second layer should not be fastened to the joists.

Article quote from - Position of Underlayment to Prevent Cracked Tile and Grout
By Frank Woeste and Peter A. Nielsen
For publication by the TILE LETTER Magazine (read whole article):

  The 2003-2004 Tile Council of America’s (TCA) Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation contains numerous details for a double layer wood floor system supporting ceramic tile.  The thicknesses of the subfloor and underlayment are given in each case.  Specific guidance on where to butt the underlayment end joints is not given for any detail.  For example, for F142-03, the TCA Handbook states, “offset end and edge joints of the underlayment panels by at least two inches from the joints of subfloor panels; they should not coincide with framing below."  It further states, “underlayment fasteners should not penetrate joists below."  In the case of F150-03, the offsetting is not mentioned, but it does state, “underlayment fasteners should not penetrate joists below."  The same holds true for F155; however, it also states, “face grain of plywood should run perpendicular to trusses, I-joists, or sawn lumber for maximum stiffness."  The purpose of this article is to propose specific guidelines for the orientation and placement of underlayment, including end and edge joints, beyond the rules given in the TCA Handbook, to improve the performance of double layer wood systems.  These guidelines are based on engineering science and field observations.

Also, since you will be using Ditra, make sure to stick with their guidelines for warranty purposes. Specifically see page 8 and 23 from The Ditra Handbook for your application.


What’s the best way to connect my 3/4” gas line to my 3/8” grill hose?

I had the exact same size gas pipe connector and hose connector.
I ended up using one adapter.
I located it on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008E5CIMQ


What can I use for full scale mock-ups other than less expensive lumber?

Fabric can fill in a plane to visually give a sense of volume and does not take that much space to store.  It may be worth investing in making some grommeted panels that can be reused.  Fabric sources could be cheap bedsheets, painters canvas drop cloths, or tarps.  Create a Tinker-Toy-like set of small dimension lumber pieces and fastening plates or bolts to create the structure to affix the fabric panels to.

Tarps can be walked on and can clearly show patio, walkway, and flowerbed dimensions.

I have stacked cardboard boxes to simulate a large piece of furniture I was considering purchasing to see if I wanted to live with that large object in the room.  Appliance and mattress stores may be sources for large boxes that can be broken down and re-used.


Why did my cooktop trip the breaker when I cleaned it with too much water?

The water apparently got inside the stove and caused a short. If there was a fuse inside there that blew, the breaker wouldn't have tripped. The breaker is detecting the excessive current to the appliance and switching off the power before the wiring inside the wall overheats and start a fire.

The best solution, as the electrician indicated, is to have the appliance repaired or replaced. Until then, leave it disconnected since it's a safety hazard. Without opening the appliance and inspecting the connections, it's difficult to say exactly what inside of it has failed.


Why won't my Heil 7000 natural gas furnace ignite?

Here is the basic ignition sequence for a furnace.

Thermostat signals for heat.
Exhaust blower creates a vacuum in the tube and causes the vacuum switch to operate.
Pilot valve opens allowing gas to flow to pilot burner (if there is a pilot).
Spark generator produces spark.
Pilot lights and flame is rectified (if there is a pilot).
Main burner valve opens.
Pilot ignites main burner.
Blower motor blows air across heat exchanger, and into conditioned space.
Thermostat signals set temperature is reached.
Gas valves close, main burner and pilot shut off.
Exhaust blower motor shuts off.
Blower motor shuts off.

If your exhaust motor is coming on, but the gas is not flowing.  The first thing you should look at, is the vacuum switch.  This switch is used to tell the furnace that the exhaust blower is on, and that the blower will clear any exhaust gases produced.  If the switch does not close, the furnace will not light to prevent toxic gases from being spread through the conditioned space.

Check the tubing attached to the switch, to insure it's clear.  Sometimes creepy crawlies like to make homes in things like this, so make sure there are no obstructions.

To check the switch...

Turn off the breaker to the furnace (or the serviceman switch where applicable).
Locate the vacuum switch (it will be a small metal bit, with a rubber tube attached to it).
Disconnect the wires from the switch (make sure you mark them and remember where they're supposed to go).
Set your multimeter to check continuity.
Connect the probes of the multimeter to the wires on the switch.
Check continuity (should be open).
Suck on the tube (lightly).
Check continuity (should be closed).

Professionals will likely use a different technique, but since it's not the safest practice I will not explain it here.

If the switch tests OK, you'll have to move on to the next part of the system.  If the switch does not close, replace it and test the system again.

The next thing to check would be the pilot assembly, control module, and gas valves. However these checks are probably best left to a professional.


How to fill and finish joints on ceiling between pre-cast concrete planks

There is nothing you can use to fill in the area if yours is like the picture from the site.  Well you can and it could quite possibly look great for a period of time but it will invariable crack in every joint.  Not only due to expansion and contraction but also to movement in the concrete.

You would have to install wood/metal furring strips across the whole ceiling to do this right.  This would be a bit of work since you would need to secure these to concrete.  And then just sink your drywall into the furring strips.  Given that you have the ability to make holes in the ceiling (you are permitted to) this is a rather "cheap" task for a DIYer but very very labor intensive task.


Testing a wired smoke detector system, with in-ceiling fire suppression - how to test detectors

These are normally two separate systems, with different issues relating to testing.
Sprinkler System
A sprinkler system is normally heat activated. This is for a few reasons, including:

Only activate the sprinkler heads that are needed. This limits water damage (water damage can be a huge cost, but is worth it when it puts out a fire) and maximizes the pressure/flow rate in the areas where it is actually needed.
About as fail-safe a system as you can get. As long as there is good water pressure (which in most, though not all, places is provided by the municipal water system so it is quite reliable and works even if the power is out), the sprinkler will activate even if power, electronic systems, etc. are not working - which can easily happen in a fire.

A sprinkler system will often (I don't know when/where this is a code requirement - it may be related to commercial vs. residential and/or the size of the building) often trigger a flow sensor (passive relative to the actual sprinkler system, so sensor failure will not prevent the sprinkler from pumping out water on the fire) which can automatically call a monitoring service and/or the fire department.
There are ways to test sprinkler systems - e.g., measure pressure, check valves, etc. - which typically require professional knowledge & equipment.
Wired Smoke Detectors
Wired smoke detectors may be simply wired for power and to trigger as a group (which is a good thing, unlike sprinklers where that would be a bad thing). However, they may be also wired to active in other units in your building and, if so, to automatically call a monitoring service and/or the fire department.
Since you are in a condo and not a single family home, you need to find out what kind of system you have. If it is independent - only your condo and no external connections (monitoring or other condo units or common area) then you can test the smoke detectors locally. If your system is linked to monitoring and/or to other units/common area then DO NOT TEST IT YOURSELF. Systems in commercial and other large buildings (like a multi-unit condo) will typically have monitoring in place - often required by law - and those systems will also have legal requirements for professional testing/certification on a regular basis (e.g., quarterly in my area).


Will most battery-powered smoke detectors attach to other back plates?

Yes, they come with a back plate, if you get the same brand (if still available) they might fit. But you'll get all the stuff you need to install them as it were a first time install.


How to repair the caulking around basement walkout doors and what to use?

It's hard to prescribe an exact product, but I ran into similar issues recently myself and here is what I learned. Some of this may be helpful in making a decision...
There used to be two main options for caulk: silicone and latex. These days there are 'siliconized' latex caulks that perform well and are easier to use than 100% silicone. Silicone is hard to clean up, and nothing much sticks to it.
Latex (a.k.a. acrylic) caulk, whether siliconized or not, can be cleaned up with water, and other things can be applied on top such as paint or additional layers of caulk. So there is less reason to go with 100% silicone anymore.
If the sealant needs to accommodate expansion and contraction, a caulk advertised as window/trim may be a good choice as these are designed to be flexible.
DAP DYNAFLEX 230 is one such siliconized flexible caulk that is generally considered to be of high quality.
If the existing base is well adhered and non-silicone, you can probably clean it and apply latex on top. If there's any doubt, it's better to remove it and start from a known sturdy substrate.
You can probably narrow the field by eliminating caulks advertised as 'non-shrinking', 'paintable', 'quick drying', as those don't matter so much in this case. Adhesion, water-sealing, and possibly elasticity, are the things I would prioritize. Good luck!


What is the best way to board interior of a large shed?

For an uninsulated shed I usually find exposed studs more useful for hanging/storing most tools, with the occasional board where that's not true.

Anyway, for a dry, uninsulated, unheated shed, you need not do anything more than nail (or screw) it to the framing. I would actively avoid @Chris Cudmore's "gap" suggestion, however, since it sounds like making exceedingly convenient rodent housing, to me. I'd keep it as tight as possible and might even caulk any unavoidable gaps to make life more difficult for rodents and insects (could be delightful and hard-to-get-at wasp habitat, too.)


Can I wire a 200amp auto transfer switch from one metered service to two 100amp panels?

The answer is yes you can install a 200 amp transfer switch to feed the 2 100 amp panels.
The possible issue becomes code requires the generator to be large enough to handle the load transferred.
Your generator being 22kw will probably be fine however the total load transferred may exceed the 91.6 amps of capacity.
An example of this being electric oven drawing 40 amps , electric dryer drawing 20+ amps the water heater drawing 20 amps and now add some lights or a well pump A refrigerator, freezer and the generator could be maxed out.
I usually suggest manual (much cheaper transfer switches) this allows you to turn off the dryer Breaker and something else so the refrigerator/ freezers Can run without over loading the system.
22kw will probably be large enough to run your home and garage but if not large enough some load shedding is required and a mechanical transfer switch would be my recommendation.


Why does the outlet work for a washer, but not a light fixture?

Is this a duplex outlet, and if so are you using the same socket ?

If the light works anywhere, the light works.

The difference is something in the outlet. The good answer would be that the outlet is no longer tight enough to make good contact with the lamp plug.

Try squeezing the pins on the plug of the lamp, and then putting it back in the washer socket.

The bad answer is that there is something in the socket or wiring that have too much resistance to allow the small current draw of the lamp, but will let the big current of the washer to go through.

A test would be to plug a toaster, hair dryer or electric heater into the washer socket and see if it works.

If the if any of those work, and the lamp does not, there is a serious problem in the wiring.

It is likely the outlet or the wires right where they attach to the outlet. But you will need repair by someone that can find and fix the problem.


What causes circular saw to wander when cutting?

Three things can cause wandering (or what seems like wandering). The first is a misaligned table and/or fence. The cut isn't actually wandering, but it seems like it is visually because of how the table is tracking across the workpiece.

The second is the use of modern "thin kerf" blades for rip cuts. While they're fantastically fast for crosscuts, they tend to "oil can" while cutting with the grain, which can cause severe wandering, especially with hard or thick boards. You'll have to work harder to keep a straight line or switch to a more conventional blade, wherein the heavier blade disk is more stable.

The third is user error. Are you applying rotational force as you push the saw? Are you preventing drag on the blade from doing so? The drag from the blade is slightly offset from the saw handle, so there's an inherent tendency for rotation in that direction.

I suggest a second-finger-trigger grip--use your second (middle) finger for the trigger, and place your first (index) finger along the front of the trigger guard. This gives you much better torsional control of the saw.

I've used Makita circular saws exclusively since the 1990s. They're consistently precise and smooth. Unless your saw has sustained damage or is extremely worn, this is probably worth consideration.


You can get a "Y" adapter for a water hose connection like this one:

Image from this Amazon product.

Additional fittings could be used if your dishwasher needs something other than water hose threads.  When selecting a splitter such as this, try to find one that is solid brass and labeled for use with hot water.  Valves that contain plastic may not be rated for hot water, so be very careful with them.


My vacuum(s) cannot be pushed on my newly installed carpet

Try going at it from a different direction. I have a low-pile rug that refuses to be vacuumed from one direction. Even while it's off, you can't push it that way.

Also, try pulling and never pushing; tip it up to advance, then let it touch down and pull backwards. Again, one direction is probably easier than the other.

If it wasn't stretched well, you'd probably be bunching it up just walking on it, so I think you'd know. Stomp your way towards a wall, if it bunches up, it's not stretched right.


Installing a transparent window in waterproof tool boxes

Make a clean round hole with a hole-saw and put in a larger polycarbonate (e.g. Lexan) window, with caulking on the surface, and perhaps three bolts, also caulked, to keep it in place.

Acrylic will quickly get scratched or crazed, or just break.


Dart in the radiator... How do I fix it without replacing the radiator?

If the radiator is constructed of a material to which solder will adhere (copper, steel, tin), you can scrape away some of the paint surrounding the hole. Because you've turned off the water, careful application of heat, flux and solder will seal off the hole on a permanent basis. Conventional copper plumbing is assembled with solder in a similar manner. A hole as small as one millimeter is easily bridged with solder and will not blow out under household water pressure.

As noted in other comments, discuss this with the owner prior to scraping paint. Obviously, when done, clean the area and repaint.


Water Heater - Electrical Fire - Safe to replace thermostat to try to fix?

A loose connection can cause the wire to overheat. Now with the terminal appearing to be damaged it would require a new wire and possibly a new thermostat. If you can clean the terminal and it is not pitted you may be able to re use the thermostat but the wire needs to be replaced. These connections are high current draw and your wire was not wrapped around the screw even if tight the point of contact is two small and not code compliant without being wrapped. Exhibit 110.4 in 2014 NEC hand book 2/3 minimum not over lapping.


I'd consider how much rain it gets before thinking of filling the gaps. You could be swapping one problem for another if the deck doesn't slope sufficiently away from the house to properly drain.
My first plan would be
A leaf blower (or even just a yard brush) for the dry stuff, followed by
A pressure washer for what's left. A bit of decking cleaner in the soap container every so often would preserve its appearance too.


wiring an Eaton 200 amp box adding a 30 breaker. need to know where the neutral is connected

The neutral or white wire goes to one of the silver busses in the panel. If this is a main panel it won’t matter which one if a sub panel one will have all the white wires the other will have all the bare or green wires follow what they did before. 120v 30 amp is not a common residential circuit you are using 10 gauge wires I hope. And the device will be listed?


Why don't I have ground wiring on any of my outlets?

Your house is wired using the EMT conduit wiring method.  Individual wires are carried inside metal conduit.  The conduit is the ground path.  Most commercial and industrial buildings look exactly like this.

Since they are individual wires, they are able to use any of 11 wire colors to disambiguate circuits, instead of the usual black white red.   If you wish to add wires, you'd buy THWN-2 wires, stranded is more flexible but more tricky to put on screws.

Switches do not need any further attention to grounding.

Lamps and receptacles may need further attention.  Look closely at how the yoke (metal frame, notably the top and bottom ears) make contact with the steel box.   If all this is true:

There is hard face-contact between the yoke and the metal box directly; the yoke is not floating out proud of the metal box connected only by screw threads, and
The yoke and metal box are not contaminated by paint, rust or other detritus, and
There is not any little little paper/plastic square that would capture the yoke screws,

then this clean hard-flush contact is an acceptable ground path.

If any of this is insufficient, you must ground the receptacle to the box.  Somewhere in the back of the box will be a hole slightly different than the others.  It is tapped #10-32 for a ground machine screw (bolt).  You can use any 10-32 bolt (machine screw).  They sell cute green 10-32 bolts in the hardware store, with or without pigtails pre-attached.  Those are perfect.

Metal conduit is an excellent wiring method, and I use it whenever I can. You can use existing conduit routes to add circuits (up to 4 per conduit), so it makes it easy to customize your wiring. For instance if you keep tripping breakers in the kitchen, just throw another circuit in alongside the existing one. Even if you're extending, you can use existing conduit for the homerun - there's no need to bust up any more drywall than you absolutely have to.

AFCIs were originally invented for problem appliances (one in particular: electric blankets). But they were found to protect all sorts of "NM cable, plastic box, lazy installation" type problems coughbackstabscough, so AFCIs are now required on almost every circuit.  EMT doesn't have those problems, so I don't install AFCI on circuits in metal conduit. (except bedrooms, obviously).


I have a CAT5e cable with only 3 pairs (6 wires working) and need to do POE over it

A starting note: If one pair of your cable is damaged, and this happened through some kind of physical abuse to the cable (or if you don't know how it happened), there is a very good chance that other pairs are also damaged, and you just don't have the equipment to detect it. If so, anything you try to with this cable is likely to work poorly, if at all.
Regarding data: in normal use, the orange pair would be carrying data, so you will need a nonstandard pinout if you want to use this cable at all. The standard pinouts are called T-568A and T-568B:
Note that the pins used for data are 1-2 and 3-6, and each of those pairs MUST be kept together (that is, 1-2 must be the same color pair, and 3-6 must be the same color pair.) For a normal "straight-through" cable, you would use either A or B (usually B, in my experience) on both ends.
One possible pinout that you could use with your cable: WGreen-Green-WBlue-Orange-WOrange-Blue-WBrown-Brown. From T-568A, this swaps orange with blue, keeps 1-2 and 3-6 paired as is required, and moves the orange pair into the unused center position (where it will remain harmlessly unused even if you wire both ends backwards, which is very easy to do by mistake.)
In order to use PoE with this setup, it appears that you will need what's called a "Mode A" PoE injector ("power sourcing equipment"). Quoting from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet -- "In mode A, pins 1 and 2 ... form one side of the 48 V DC, and pins 3 and 6 ... form the other side. These are the same two pairs used for data transmission in 10BASE-T and 100BASE-TX, allowing the provision of both power and data over only two pairs in such networks." This will be necessary in your situation, since all other PoE modes require all four pairs to be working.
Unfortunately, I can't find any documentation on whether your switch uses Mode A or Mode B for PoE. (Luckily, the PoE standard apparently requires the AP to accept either.) Wikipedia and some other sources suggest that Mode B is typical for injectors, and Mode A is typical for devices like switches, but this is far from guaranteed. If you already have the equipment, your best bet may be to try it and see; however it's not impossible that shorts in the cable could cause damage to your devices, so try at your own risk!


Yeah, sounds legit.  Generally since the circuit served the A/C before, it is typical for those to be dedicated circuits and thus homeruns.  If there are onward wires, you'll know when you open up the socket.

You can fit a 15A breaker and NEMA 6-15 recep(s).  Feel free to use a dual 6-15 so you can just keep the same faceplate.

Or, you can fit a 20A breaker, and fit either a) any number of NEMA 6-20 sockets, or b) two or more NEMA 6-15 sockets.

Oh, one more thing.  Code requires that a receptacle exist within 6' of any point along walls (following the walls around corners, not straightlining).  You must make sure eliminating this 120V socket doesn't make you fall short of minimums.  If it doesn't, that's good evidence that the socket was installed specifically for the A/C, and may have even been 240V once upon a time.


What kind of wood should be used to replace a sub floor?

Sub Floor
Sub floor material can depend on what type of floor is going to be installed on top of it, and the joist spacing.
Typically if the joists are 16" on center (OC) or less, you can use 5/8" tongue and groove plywood glued and screwed to the joists. larger joist spacing calls for 3/4" tongue and groove plywood, again glued and screwed to the joists.

If the flooring material of choice is a heavy tile, you'll want to use 3/4" tongue and groove plywood even with 16" OC joists.
Underlayment
Depending on what type of floor covering you've chosen, an underlayment may also be necessary.
If you are planning on installing carpet, no extra materials are required.
If you plan to install hardwood flooring, you can use felt or rosin paper as an underlayment (though not all installers use it).

If you are installing laminate flooring, you should use a foam underlayment.

If you are going to install tile, you'll want to use a concrete board or similar material on top of the sub floor.

If you want to install vinyl or fiberglass sheeting, you should use 1/4" Lauan as an underlayment.


How to fix a stripped hole in a plaster wall?

Screws in wallboard do not support anything. Unless your screws hit a stud or an anchor of some sort, the bracket is decorative, not functional.

If there is not a stud in the immediate vicinity, you need to use a serious anchor. I would recommend using a strap toggle type anchor behind the bottom screw and one of the top screws.

The bolt can be replaced with a flat head version if you need that for your bracket.

I would use a plastic anchor for the third hole.


I would demo the entire back splash area removing all the Sheetrock.
Trying to save 10$ (about a sheet) makes no sense to me because the Sheetrock gets damaged or has residue on it. I would rip& strip the tile and Sheetrock out and then if replacing with Sheetrock use green board or if tile use backer board to replace the Sheetrock.
Replacing a large piece will look better in the long run and save a lot of time. For the cost of 1 maybe 2 sheets.
If you cut just above the tile this can help keep the strip narrow but I usually go close to the cabinets as seams up there are the easiest to hide as they are not in direct view.


There is usually a shutoff valve somewhere along the line from your hot water heater and usually at the base of each appliance or fixture. I would first make sure the values near the bath and dishwasher are both on. If not try tracking the lines from your hotwater heater to see if any values are shut off.

The values near the bath may look like this:

The values along the line look like this:


Can I wash and continue to use dishes that were in a sink with a brush used for varnishing?

Varnish is usually a mixture of a drying oil, some resin such as pine tar, and a solvent such as turpentine.
The drying oil most likely won't kill you. The most commonly used oil, linseed oil, is actually just non-food-grade flax oil by another name.

The Greeks put pine tar in their wine, and it's a tasty treat.

The solvent is a little more troublesome. The pinene in turpentine for example, has a nasty looking chemical structure. However, Solvents, by their liquid nature are pretty easily washed off, epecially when you put plenty of soap in your water.

I'd give the dishes a good washing, and use them without a second thought.
I'd also try not to leave a paintbrush in the kitchen sink again.


Can I build a gravel driveway over sand?

For me living in the desert a sand yard is pretty common.   Putting gravel on top of the sand here to add a bit of firmness is also common.
So as previously commented how much sand and what is under it will affect success and how long it lasts before sand comes through (if it does).   The gravel will work into the sand, but this is not bad at all (concrete is sand, gravel and a cement, 2 out of the 3).
Two factors on how long it lasts before the sand does appear on top again will depend on water content, how much gravel is laid, how thick the sand is and compaction.
To start your effort, water the sand well and give it a day or so to soak and harden.  If a compaction machine is available compact it when damp.
Lay your gravel on top, wet and compact it.


light bulb burns out immediately or within 3-4 seconds

If the replacement lamps are the correct voltage, but burning out immediately, this is likely due to a bad neutral connection. This can be caused by a break in the neutral wire anywhere between the outside power transformer and the electric entrance panel in the house. Occasionally, a tree branch will fall on the entrance cable, pulling loose the neutral wire.

This condition causes voltage to be split unequally across circuits, so that some devices may get just a fraction of the normal voltage (e.g. 120 VAC in most of North America), and the opposite circuit get the rest 9up to 240 VAC).

If you know how to check the voltage safely on the bulb's circuit you can confirm this. In any event, if it is a bad neutral, get it fixed quickly, because the incorrect voltage (low as well as high) can destroy appliances or start a fire. This repair is not for the amateur, and may require inspection afterwards.


So consumer level sprinkler systems are pretty simple things. In your case, you'll have 1: a pump near the well to generate enough pressure within your system, 2: a timing unit that acts as the brains/clock (usually at 24V), applying a voltage to likely your pump, as well as 3: those solenoids (those cylinders at the top which actuate) and 4: the actual hardware used in the irrigation system itself.

As Tyson mentioned, most consumer setups that run off municipal water have enough head pressure to provide more than enough flow sufficient for a few acres. That pressure is there when you're tapping from your mains, so normally whoever plumbs it the new run will have a compression fitting in-line with the new piping throwing a 3/8" compression shut-off valve in-line.

If you're sourcing from a well, you don't have that sorta constant pressure (or presumably any pressure at all until your motor kicks on, unless your lands water table is real wonky and your irrigation is significantly lower than where you hit water) to deal with so odds are they said screw it and didn't pay the $15 to couple one in.

This is good news ! Assuming you're 100% sure you're getting well-water, You can likely work on that system without turning off any sort of mains off other than a pump. Ingress and egress (I'm not sure if those are the right flow terms, I'm in semiconductors professionally..) should have no back-pressure.

I can't tell by that picture where the leak is, but check all of your seals first. I'd a boatload of money if you're leaking out where the solenoid actuator is coupled to the lower assembly on the T, it's just a bad ring. They're just like bearings (all standardized in sizes/ratings/etc) so you can swap them out yourself without having to call in some schmo and have him say you have to replace the whole unit because he doesn't want to waste his time to take it apart. You'll end up paying for a whole new unit plus his labor, rather than paying $12 for a seal from those over-priced vendors like McMaster and MSC (and really, unlike bearings which have build quality variance to them - a Buna-N seal is a Buna-N seal). If you have the datasheet from the vendor, it'll tell you the sizing, materials, etc.

I'm not an electrician, it looks like that utility shaft isn't properly sealed so it's getting hit by some elements. It might be a huge pain depending on where you're sourcing your power from, but I'd definitely re-run that with exterior grade shielding, enclosed properly in a weather-resistant box. (Or completely eliminate the mains, buy an exterior enclosure and throw 8 AA's in there if 12v is the solenoid actuating level.)

Edit: To shut off that whole system, cut the three supply lines and PVC cement end-caps to them. I can't tell from the picture 100% if the flex-PVC or the hard schedule 40 is the source, but it looks like the sch.40 are all parallel so I'm guessing those are connected to a manifold which connects to the well/pump. Measure the size (just take a string and wrap it around, divide by 3.14 to get the "OD" (outer diameter). The sizings for PVC are in 1/4 inch so you don't need precision calipers to get a measurement.

Find 4 fittings of that size at your local Home Depot. Buy that, some PVC cement, a hack-saw if you need it, and some 400-ish grit sand paper to clean up the ends of all that dirt so your adhesive bonds properly. (Those are just suggestions - use what you got. RE: Adhesive. If you have some 3M DP100 or JB Weld, those will work too, I'd bet. RE: Sandpaper. 400 grit isn't necessary, if you have a wire-wheel on your angle grinder/drill/whatever you can use that, or even a dremel with a deburring tool. RE: hacksaw - PVC is soft, any cutting tool will work.) Once the ends are clear of dirt, apply adhesive, cap them off with the new fittings. Working time is in the tens of minutes, cure time is usually 24 hours for adhesives of that form.

Electrically, those motors will continue to actuate. It will be a negligible amount of power and leaving them in line won't burn your house down. If you don't know how to decommission them - I'd leave them be, because if other appliances are on the same circuit and powered in series with your sprinkler assembly, they'll stop working. The "right" way to do it would be to find the junction box/circuit/sub-circuit box that it's sourcing from and to disconnect the wiring in a proper-up-to-code-NEC way, or to call a licensed electrician.


Why can't you set your backboards plumb and square using shimming or something else instead of floating walls when installing tiles?

You can shim backer board.
Depending on the tile size and how it meets with a seam I will mesh tape and float my seams to reduce cracking.
If a tile seam ends up close to a backer seam. This is where I float a wall not to try and square things up.
A vertical surface being filled with mortar to square it up just sounds nuts to me.


It's time to take photographs, measurements, and contact the association.  Take measurements periodically.  Check other windows & doors for similar problems, and ask your downstairs neighbors about the same.  The HA needs to get to the bottom of this, and only they can do it.


How should I prepare to plaster my brick fireplace?

I would tile over or build a frame work and Sheetrock , if I wanted to minimize it I might remove the facing brick , I have done this a few times with inserts and used tile around the opening, I don’t like plaster or Sheetrock around fireplaces but with inserts the temps and smoke are better controlled this is the reason I use them.


Window unit lets in lots of outdoor noise. How to insulate?

You may want to make a trip to the big box store and purchase a piece of high density foam insulation board. You should be able to find materials that are colored pink or blue that comes in 1" or 2" thicknesses.

Carefully cut pieces that will fit between the window bottom, side wall and the inward protruding part of the AC unit. If cut correctly you should be able to push the foam material into place with a nice friction fit all around right over those pleated side fillers.

You could also investigate the possibility of cutting a piece that would push in under the AC unit.

It is not clear if a piece would be needed across the top as it is not obvious from the picture if the top area lets in noise to the same degree that the flimsy side pleated panels.

Lastly there is the issue of possible sound coming right in through the AC unit itself. It that is the case this is clearly an issue when the AC unit is off and not in use. So in that case make a cover out of the foam board to put in front of the AC unit when it is not in use. Remove cover to use AC when it's noise probably fully exceeds what external noise that would come through the unit.


What type of screw should I use to install a latch lock on a metal door?

I would rivet it. Do not mess with screws. Rivets are much more simple and will hold the latch tight.


Need help choosing correct Allen or Hex tool

I believe you're looking for an allen head ratchet set, like the one below. A trip to your local hardware or home improvement store might be in order so you can see some products to get a sense of whether or not they can fit in the small space you have before you make a purchase.

(http://chapmanmfg.com/ , also available on Amazon)

I've never used this particular manufacturer's tools (and this kit might be a little expensive for a one-time job) so I'm not necessarily recommending this particular kit,  but the kit includes a low profile ratchet that may work well in a tight space. There are other kits out there that use a similar small ratchet.

Many ratchet sets use a standard 1/4" ratchet with an adapter socket that takes the allen wrench insert, so it ends up being a little bulkier than this ratchet above appears to be. Here's an extreme example, this looks like a 3/8" ratchet with a 1/4" adapter on it, then the 1/4" adapter has a hex bit adapter, then the hex bit is on the end:

Another option - flexible drive for a socket wrench:

If you do get a standard ratchet with a 3mm hex bit, then you might be able to use a flexible drive for your ratchet to get into a tight space -- it can bend around obstacles while still being able to turn a fastener:

(Image from Amazon)

One more option - a ball-head allen wrench:

Another tool that might be useful would be a ball-end allen wrench:

(image from Amazon)

The ball-end lets you insert it into the bolt at angle instead of having to go straight in. However, the ball-end doesn't fit in the fastener head as securely as a standard squared off wrench, so you may not be able to give it enough torque to break loose a tight fastener. Here's a closeup of the ball-end:


Full port valve provide a flow diameter that is the same as the inlet/outlet ports.  So, for example a 3/4" full port will be 3/4" throughout.
A "standard" does NOT provide that and a 3/4" standard has a flow diameter restriction of something less than 3/4".  Likely closer to 1/2".
Why use one over the other?  Full port costs more and takes up more space and offers little benefit for many applications.  So unless you have a specific need, chances are that the standard valve will be just fine.
If you have concerns about the flow or it's a relatively high-flow line then use a full port.
Generally the same principles apply to any fluid, water or gas, but gas is a compressible flow and is affected somewhat less.  Gas, at least as used in homes, rarely flows at a rate comparable to water.  But in some cases it may be needed to use full port.
Knowing when to use one vs. the other is not always obvious.  This is why engineers go to college for 4 years or plumbers apprentice for several years.


Are we reading our propane tank wrong, or are we being overcharged?

Your gauge is certainly not reading pressure.

The only thing pressure tells you is what temperature the propane is at (LPG is "liquified propane gas" and reflects the fact that propane is easily transported in bulk because it becomes a dense liquid rather than a gas a relatively low pressure. That pressure varies with temperature.)

So, there's probably a float in the tank reading the liquid level. Such things are not uncommonly in error - if you think about the shape of a typical buried LPG tank (a horizontal cylinder), there's a complex relationship between the distance the float travels and the percentage of the tank that is full, which is being "interpreted" by a mechanical linkage.

If you have a local authority in charge of weights and measures, they (probably) check on the metering of the supplier. You could inquire if they do and (if so) when the last test was, and what it showed.


Can I use double-sided carpet tape to stick throw rugs to a carpet pad?

I think that you're on the wrong track. You can purchase actual carpet tiles specifically designed for that use case. The linked one is a hideous green with peel and stick backing, other brands snap together at the edges. I believe you'll find the cost per square foot roughly equivalent to the IKEA rugs. Installation will certainly be way easier.

I wouldn't trust underlayment that wasn't stapled down. If you are interested in the tile idea I would add the padding into your budget and buy nicer tiles. (You may have better results at a dedicated flooring store than the home center.)

If you are dead set against carpet tiles and stapling both you may want to look into rug underlays, which come in tacky (sticky, not tasteless) no-slip versions. Rug underlays are quite a bit tougher to rip than carpet underlay as well.

It isn't a great option for you because of the column, but you can order bound carpet in any dimension. (Bound carpet has the edges sealed so they won't unravel.) It's slightly more expensive than 14 Ikea rugs taped together, but it's a lot less of a trip hazard.

UPDATE - You should definitely invest in a hammer tacker and staple the underlayment down since it's an unfinished floor. One staple every couple inches around the perimeter of each piece to prevent it from sliding or bunching up. Leave enough room that the rugs can be taped down directly to the floor on the outside perimeter.


Why does my dishwasher detergent get stuck?

The cover of the detergent cup is not opening when its supposed to. If you need to expose the cup to investigate, it is not opening at all. The spring loaded cover is held closed over the detergent by a little catch. There is a solenoid in the door that pulls on the catch, letting the cover spring open. This happens at the start of the main wash cycle. The cover is not that water tight, water normally leaks in, causing the detergent to start caking.

Once the cover opens, exposing the detergent to the main water jets, the minor caking is not an issue, all the detergent gets washed out. When the cover doesn't open, the main water jets cannot wash out the damp detergent.

The reason the cover does not open usually is the solenoid fails and needs replacement, though it's possible something else is at fault. Faulty wiring, faulty relay or triac on the control board, some sort of timer issue, etc.

If you can locate the solenoid, try measuring the resistance of the coil with the wiring removed. If it's either hardly any or nearly infinite, the coil is at fault. Solenoids can fail for other reasons, so reasonable resistance does not mean it is not at fault.

Unless you can observe something out of place, like a broken wire, that is probably the extent of DIY troubleshooting.


How Does A Refrigerator Determine When The Water Filter Needs To Be Replaced?

The replacement cycle is clock based not usage based, so if your usage is below average you can probably extend the interval to almost a year, but as Ed mentions, they can begin to introduce problems if left unchanged too long.   (Early fridges with water and ice had NO filtration)


washing machine set ( Australia ) connectors' position

It is a very common thing that you have to watch assembly of plumbing joints, especially for valve assemblies like this, and stop tightening the joint when the part is in the proper position. If you have gone past the acceptable position sometimes it is possible to back off just a bit to get the right setting. In that case you have to check carefully for leaks. Other times it is necessary to continue tightening the joint to bring the part into proper position. If it appears that this may not be possible because it is just too tight then it may be necessary to disassemble the joint and completely clean the threads out and then apply a bit more TFE thread sealing tape than the first time. Then when re-assembling stop when the joint is in the right position before going too far.


Is heavier weight carpet padding a waste of money?

I was curious about this and did some research myself. From what I read, it appears that the purpose of carpet padding is not for under foot comfort but to extend the life of the carpet. In fact the best performing padding actually provides less comfort under foot but extends the life of the carpet. Although thicker, "plushier" padding would certainly provide a plushier under foot feel (just as if you put a 2x4 over softer material), that is not the goal of the padding. My feeling on this would be to invest the price difference instead into the "plushier" carpet rather then the padding if your concern is simply comfort.


What is the labeling scheme on these outlets?

On the first plug, the GLD is the panel name, and the 15,17,19 is the breaker spaces that it takes.  It is a 3 phase receptacle, but I cannot tell you what NEMA configuration it is.

Same goes for the 20 amp receptacle next to it, 1LB is the panel name and the 11 is the space in the panel the breaker is in.

The telcom labeling probably leads you the same way.


How can I extend a surge protector's cable?

We just had the Fire Marshall visit our business and give us a fire inspection.

We got wrote up for several things.

Extension cords are for temporary use. If you need power at a remote point, get an electrician in and extend an existing circuit or run a new circuit.
No Zip-Cord type extension cords to be used, Ever!! They don't have abrasion resistance like SJO type cord. Laying over a sharp edge can cause cold flow of the insulation and they cannot withstand being kinked or having sharp objects dropped on them. Plus the insulation can age and crack.
If you must extend the number of power sockets (multiple outlet tap), it must have an internal circuit breaker.
If you must have a permanent extension to bring power to a remote area, use a power strip with an internal circuit breaker and appropriate length SJO type cord (3', 6', 10', 15', 20', 25').
Never chain power strips, they are available with different length cords (to reiterate).
Any UPS installation shall either be plugged directly into the wall socket or an appropriately rated power strip with internal circuit breaker.

Note: You probably won't find the long cord power strips locally, I would try online for the country appropriate type you need. Industrial/Commercial applications or Server applications tend to have the longer cords.

Zip Cord Multi-outlet Extension Cord - No Circuit Breaker, No Outer Jacket on cable (arrow to best view). In the US, this is referred to as Zip Cord as the grooves in the insulation allow for the different conductors to be Zipped apart for termination. The insulation will tear along the groove. The insulation is soft, easily penetrated and abraded, and with age, can crack and expose conductors. It is also easily kinked which can break the inner conductor leading to a  high resistance fusible fire starter which is also why there is a US code requirement for Arc Fault circuit breakers to be used on rooms where corded lamps are likely to be used now. AKA Lamp Cord.

Jacketed SJO Cord - SJO style cord with individual conductors, fiber filler and protective outer jacket which also may unfortunately be referred to as zip cord as it can have an internal string to allow cutting the outer jacket when pulled to expose the inner conductors.


A gas range with a pilot light doesn't need electricity because it has a pilot light. A gas range with electric ignition needs electricity for the electric ignitors. If the power goes out, an electrically-ignited range will work just fine because you can simply light the gas yourself with a match.


How to reattach a tub overflow pipe that is offset from the tub

All you need is a thick wire that can be bent into a U-shape at one end.  Place the cover back into the outlet hole, insert the U-shaped wire into the outlet pipe and try to grab the outlet pipe to hold it in place. Lift the outlet pipe and slowly screw the top cover to the outlet. Tighten the top cover to the outlet pipe with a pair of pliers.


GFCI Outlet in Bathroom, Lights not working

You have a short to ground on your light fixture circuit somewhere and the GFCI is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. In bathroom light fixtures, the culprit is usually corrosion and/or condensation build-up.


How can I remove old tea stain from carpet/rug?

Sorry to hear about your stain, but here are two options.

Tea should be fairly easy to remove.  You can try blotting it out with very hot water and an absorbent cloth, or borrow a carpet cleaning steam machine and give it a try. Another option would be to hire a commercial carpet cleaning service. I use this type of service all the time in the apartments I manage. In this area it only costs me about $80 per room and the results are amazing. If you talk with a cleaning service, they can tell you if your stain can be removed before you hire them. Some will guarantee that the stain will be gone. This option is certainly a lot cheaper than paying to replace the entire carpet and padding. Good Luck.


How to add a ceiling light to existing ceiling light in same room that has two wall switches?

There will be a pair of conductors coming into the light box, one of which is the switched hot. You can tie into those to add another light either in the light box or in the switch box at the other end of that cable.

Be sure you have an understanding of box-fill regulations, connection techniques, etc. before you make any changes. For further assistance, show a diagram of the current situation.


Generator has 4 prongs, can an adapter be used?

You cannot just use an adapter and hook your generator up to your house electrical panel. You need a transfer switch to isolate your service from the power company when your generator is in use. Installing one can be pretty complicated and permits are usually involved. Unless you are very knowledgeable about what's involved, getting professional help would be advisable.


When should pipe dope vs thread tape be used?

Whether dope is required at all, is dependent on the type of threads. The type of thread is determined by the tap or die used to create the threads, and should be labeled on the pipe or fitting.
Thread Standards
National Pipe Thread (NPT)
This type of thread when mated, may contain slight gaps between the major and minor diameter of the threads. Because of this, a thread seal agent may be required. However, this type of thread is tapered at a rate of 1/16 (3/4"/foot), which often allows a seal to be made without a sealing agent.
May be listed as MNPT or FNPT, for male and female threads respectively.
National Pipe Thread Fuel (NPTF)
NPTF threads are designed so that when the threads are mated, they actually deform to create a mechanical seal. Since the seal is created by the threads themselves, a thread seal agent is not required (though may be used as a lubricant).
May be listed as MNPTF or FNPTF, for male and female threads respectively.
National Pipe Straight (NPS)
This type of thread is similar to NPT, except that the thread does not have a taper. A thread seal agent is required, but should be selected differently due to the lack of taper.
May be listed as MNPS or FNPS, for male and female threads respectively.
National Pipe Straight Fuel (NPSF)
NPSF like NPTF creates a mechanical seal due to the deformation of the threads, however, unlike NPTF NPSF threads are not tapered.
May be listed as MNPSF or FNPSF, for male and female threads respectively.
Selecting Dope
Which form of dope you choose is often based on who you learned from, personal preference, what's on hand, what type of pipe you're working with, etc. The following are my personal guidelines.
Water
Plastic, Soft Metals, Unreactive Metals
In this situation I'll reach for PTFE tape, since it's not likely I'll require long term corrosion protection.  I'm just looking to lubricate the joint, so I can tighten it to create a leak free joint.
Steel, Reactive Metals
Because I don't want the threads to rust or react negatively, in this situation I'll use paste dope. The paste dope will give me the lube I need to get the pipes properly joined, while at the same time providing corrosion protection.  The paste dope will never harden or flake off, so I know the threads will be protected for a long time.
Large Diameter Pipe
If I'm working with water pipe of any material larger than ~1", I'll always use paste dope.  I don't really have any particular reason for this, it's just the way I was taught.
Fuel Gas
When working with fuel gas pipes of any kind, I always use a paste dope labeled for this use. This is especially true when working with "black" pipe, since I want some corrosion protection in these joints.
Tapered VS. Straight Threads
Tapered Threads
For pipes and fittings with tapered threads, I'll simply follow the guidelines mentioned above.
Straight Threads
When working with fittings with straight threads, paste dope should always be used.  Tape dope is too thick, and can actually prevent a good seal in straight thread joints. Paste dope will spread and be pushed out of the way, and will not prevent the threads from properly engaging.


The links below provide the guidelines for industrial facilities but may be of interest.  They discuss the importance of considering potential ignition sources and use of effective dust collection systems.

OSHA Combustable Dust Hazard Information

NFPA 664: STANDARD FOR THE PREVENTION OF FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS IN WOOD PROCESSING AND WOODWORKING FACILITIES

As a practical matter many hobbyists have basement shops.  It looks like your tarp will keep the bulk of the dust away from the furnace, and a dust collector will help even more.  If you find there is significant fine dust getting to the furnace side of the tarp you could buy or build a secondary air filter system to supplement the main dust collector you connect your table saw and other large tools to.  You should also pay close attention to storage of flammable solvents / finishes and disposal of rags used in finishing.


Preparing an old metal cabinet for painting

OK, so this is a classic prep-paint situation, on a metal thing which has alkyd (that's what its mom calls oil paint when it's in trouble) or possibly LPU paint.   Definitely not latex, so we dodged that bullet.  shudder

Latex paints are not for metal equipment like this.  They will fail very quickly. However alkyds are very stinky. If you can't paint somewhere vented, then use a waterborne alkyd with synthetic for-latex brushes... but those are new, weird and I don't trust them.

Paint prep is a generally miserable job, and the picture postcard for a very basic rule about tools: Always use hand tools until you've achieved mastery of the hand tool. Only then, look at power tools, since you now have a well-caibrated sense of how you want to automate the job.  I own a ton of power prep tools. That particular piece isn't bad, and I would probably leave them in the cabinet and go at it with hand wirebrushes and sanding blocks.  I would go for a power wirebrush if there was determined rust there.

But based on the fact that this isn't very rusted, I'm guessing it lives in a low-rust-risk location, so you don't really need SSPC-SP10 surface prep; any residual leftover rust probably won't break out.  You just need it aesthetically smooth.

Prep is about

a) Removing and neutralizing rust.  For a low-risk situation like yours, I would use hand or power wire brushing and/or sanding, til very little remains, then hit it with a rust converter, which you paint on.
b) Smoothing the surface. That's what sanding is all about.  Dry-sand, or wet-sand if you're worried about lead.  Now, you also can use primer as a "filler", to fill in the low spots.  Primer -> sand -> primer -> sand -> primer is SOP around my shop, and they make high-build primers specifically for this purpose.  For deeper fills, you can use fairing (commonly called Bondo).
c) Roughening the surface. Fresh paint cannot stick to a glossy surface.
d) removing dust and dirt.  Mostly dust from the above lol.
e) removing contaminants.  Anything that'll mess up the paint - especially silicones, linseed oil, latex paint.  I prefer to take the primer I'm applying and use its own diluent (the stuff you thin it with, i.e. paint thinner for Rustoleum).
A double-cloth wipedown works best, cloth #1 is wet with thinner, and cloth #2 is clean and dry and picks up the contaminants.  Keep refreshing cloth #2, I prefer to graduate it to cloth #1.

Amazon Prime

Now you prime that sucker.  You need to coordinate the primer to be compatible with the topcoat, both chemically and aesthetically.

Decide whether brush or roller stipple is something you can live with.  If not, you'll need to skill up on rattle-can spray jobs. They are easy to mess up with runs etc.

Rustoleum 7769 Rusty Metal Primer is the stuff you want. It performs WAY better than you'd expect for consumer tier stuff, it's available everywhere, and it won't kill you*. When I can't get a surface quite to SSPC-SP10, I use Rustoleum 7769, and then apply my industrial tier coatings.  You still need the unit quite dry, so drive humidity in the room down as much as you can.

Despite Rustoleum's "Stops Rust" slogan, Rustoleum 7769 is the ONLY product that will do that, and only over fairly good prep.

Rustoleum is an alkyd and is Very Stinky stuff. There is no way to avoid it. Water-based paints just won't perform on metal machinery like this.  And hardware stores are now trying to push you into  a "waterborne alkyd" - hissss! booooo! Avoid!

Paint outdoors. Lay down and weight down a tarp first, and don't overspray anyone's car!

You only need Rusto 7769 on the bare metal or formerly rusty areas.  If the old paint is solid, priming is not so urgent.

Nothing wrong with hand brushing. You must use a natural bristle brush, not the synthetic brushes for latex.  Either buy a good'un and fastidiously clean it after every use, or I get cheapie "chip brushes" and just watch for bristles and pluck them out of the coat as it goes on.

With spray, you'll need to multi-coat the first layer (if you try to get it in 1, it'll run).  Brush might not need a 2nd coat if you coat it well the first time.

If you're after a smooth finish, you can re-sand after the prime. But if you blow through to bare metal, you'll have to re-prime at least that area.

Now think about topcoat.

Rustoleum 7769 is too good not to use, but it leaves you with a deep brown.  If you want a light finish, prepare for 3 more coats. Normally I use Rustoleum 7780 for the next coat, but I gather you don't want to buy yet another can of something, so I just say use a 3rd coat of topcoat. There is no such thing as a 1-coat topcoat, because a) it's opacity isn't that good, and b) your application isn't that perfect.  Marketing lies!

Since you don't need to Rusto everywhere, you might make your first topcoat just over the brown areas.

Since this is equipment not a house, your topcoat should be an oil-based alkyd (i.e. not a "waterborne alkyd", yuck).  Rustoleum's topcoats (the alkyd "High Performance Protective Enamel" ones, anyway) are perfectly adequate.  On one hand, color choice is very limited; but on the other hand, a second can will match.  Sherwin Williams will custom mix, but their second can will be a bit off. That's just a fact of small-scale color mixing.

* Unlike the 2-pack "have to wear a moon suit" mil-spec stuff you see on new airplanes, which is loaded with PBA or isocyanates, and doesn't work in cans, since you have to mix 3-4 chemicals and then spray it within an hour.  It's pretty good primer, though.


Is it okay to store laminate flooring in a dry garage for a couple weeks?

It is fine to temporarily store the flooring in a cool dry place, However, You will need to bring it into the  climate in which it will be installed for a few days so that it will acclimate to the conditions before installation.


How to insert bulb in this fluorescent socket?

Yeah, that's just a wacky "feature" of this particular type of tombstone.

Yes, that little black sleeve rotates independently from the white tombstone.   In theory, it's supposed to be impossible for it to be in that position - since you would have had to turn it 90 degrees to remove the tube.    However, if the tube broke or was cleverly removed in some other way, it could wind up like that.

So, you need a "key" to turn it 90 degrees. The key looks exactly like the end of a fluorescent tube, and I bet you have one of those :) You just stick the tube almost into position to install it, and land only that end on that tombstone.  Turn it 90 degrees (should be a small detent) and you're all set.


Replacing gas burner in a vented glass 3 sided fireplave

You must get a new burner from the manufacturer, anything else could potentially end in disaster.remember to make sure if it's natural or propane gas burner.


Will a water heater use more or less power overall if equipped with larger or smaller heating elements?

You'll use more power with the larger element, unless you/your family are very strange. You'll use more power because you'll get more hot water before the water heater can't keep up - if you used exactly the same amount/temperature of water, you'd use exactly the same amount of power. Standby losses are pretty minimal for a well-insulated modern hot water heater, and standby losses would be almost the same - except for when they are (very) slightly higher as the tank recovers faster so it's not as cool.

You may need to upgrade wiring if the element size is an increase.

If you want to save money or energy on heating hot water, a heat pump [either separate from the water heater and connected to it (might outlast the water heater), or a "heat pump water heater" (presumably needing expensively thrown out when it dies)] or a desuperheater on your A/C (if you have and use A/C) or a solar thermal hot water system  (I seem to recall you are in a hot desert area where this should work well) are all far more effective than fiddling with element size. Naturally they all have capital costs and added complexity.


They make various repair couplings that slide over the pipe. Some are made to solder, some have pressure-rated rubber gaskets. There are probably additional types out there too. All require a gap in the pipe.
To replace an inline component, you would cut the pipe directly upstream or downstream of the component in question, replace your component, then refit using a repair coupling:
solder type (repair, or no-stop, coupling):

rubber gasket type (moody coupling):


How can I attach a metal frame with pre-drilled 3/8" holes to a hardwood table top?

If I understand correctly, your concern is that the 3/8" holes in the frame would require a pretty large diameter screw in order to have a snug fit when you screw down the table top.  Since you are dealing with Beech instead of particleboard, you want to use traditional screws instead of the pressure plugs.  If this is correct, I can offer the following thoughts:

Using the frame as a template, it is reasonable to drill 3/8" Holes in the top and use the pressure plugs that came with it.

You could buy a large 3/8 diameter screw or lag bolt.  Just be sure to pre-drill you pilot hole large enough so you don't crack the top.

You can drill pilot holes in the top and screw it down with bugle head wood screws. (AKA flat head screws, AKA flush head screws, AKA countersink screws)  The cone shape of the head of the screw will center the screw in the hole and prevent the smaller shaft of the screw from wiggling around inside the larger diameter hole.

You could cut off the bottom part of the plastic pressure plug so that the length is the same as the thickness of the frame.  You could then insert the plug in the frame, drill your pilot holes, and use the plug as a spacer inside the 3/8" hole to keep you screws from wiggling around.

In any case, be sure you use a good quality, high strength screw.  A cheap screw (drywall screws especially) may snap off when you are tightening them in beech.

Hope that is helpful, good luck with your project!


Move a gas meter 150ft or install your own gas line?

Yes, if you take 2 PSI service, you'll need one or more regulators so that the appliances receive 4 ounce pressure. Inquire with the utility about the monthly service cost -- my utility charges a base connection fee and the fee is $10 higher for 2 PSI service every month. I don't know whether this is common with other gas companies.
Some factors to consider:

the shop is merely future/planned. Will there be issues with the utility or building inspector if, for now, you have a free-standing gas meter out in the field 150 ft from the house? Will it require bollards, a fenced enclosure, or other protection you hadn't considered?
what if the shop construction is delayed or its plans change (ie dimension or location)? Will the meter-in-field anchor point be a problem?
the 2" HDPE pipe isn't cheap and the risers aren't either -- just for budgetary purposes, the Orange Box home improvement store lists these online at $460 for a 250 ft coil and $190 (times two) for the risers. That's over one third of the cost of moving the meter to the house and doesn't include tracer wire, warning tape, nor installation (trenching) costs.
how much gas demand is expected in the shop? A pipe carrying gas from house to shop might be half the size and cost of the 2" you'd need to carry gas the other direction.
if the service is moved to the house would you still need 2 PSI service? If no, then the cost of regulators further erodes the savings of leaving the service in its current location.

All things considered, if I were in the situation I'd have the meter moved.


What is the typical dishwasher/disposer electrical connection?

Dishwashers can be either hardwired, or cord-and-plug connected. Check the owners manual of the unit you have, but in most cases the decision is left to the installer.

From a random Maytag Dishwasher Installation Guide (PDF)

In newer homes you'll commonly find a 125V NEMA 5-15R receptacle supplied by a 20 ampere circuit, used to supply a dishwasher and disposer. In this case, the receptacle is typically installed in the cabinet under the sink.  If you don't have a receptacle under the sink, it's not likely that the dishwasher is cord-and-plug attached.
The National Electrical Code, specifies that all outlets must be accessible. Because of this, a receptacle installed in a location that requires the removal of the dishwasher is not code compliant. i.e. If you can't find where the dishwasher is plugged in, it's likely hardwired.
Checking the wiring for the disposal, might give you some clues as to how things are wired.
You might also find This answer useful, when trying to figure out what you can connect to the circuit.

Code that allows Garburators and dishwashers to be cord-and-plug-connected

National Electrical Code 2014
Article 422 Appliances
II. Installation
422.16 Flexible Cords.
(B) Specific Appliances.
(1) Electrically Operated Kitchen Waste Disposers. Electrically operated kitchen waste disposers shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer, where all of the following conditions are met:
(1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a groundingtype attachment plug.
(2) The length of the cord shall not be less than 450 mm (18 in.) and not over 900 mm (36 in.).
(3) Receptacles shall be located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
(4) The receptacle shall be accessible.
(2) Built-in Dishwashers and Trash Compactors. Built-in dishwashers and trash compactors shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer where all of the following conditions are met:
(1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a grounding type attachment plug.
(2) The length of the cord shall be 0.9 m to 1.2 m (3 ft to 4 ft) measured from the face of the attachment plug to the plane of the rear of the appliance.
(3) Receptacles shall be located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
(4) The receptacle shall be located in the space occupied by the appliance or adjacent thereto.
(5) The receptacle shall be accessible.


According to NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances, you'll start with 36" clearance all the way around.

Then you can use one of the methods described, to reduce the required clearance.

Or you can follow the manufacturers installation instructions, which for a listed and labeled device supersede the code requirements.

As for the connector, you'll start with 18".

Then apply any reductions.


What kind of lubrication should I use for a lock?

OLD ANSWER (Improved below)

  Graphite powder is the preferred lubricant for locks.  You should be
  able to get it at any hardware store in a squeeze bottle that is half
  air, allowing you to blow it right into the keyway.  You are going to
  have to wait a while before putting it on, as the residual WD-40 will
  gum it up.

EDIT: As per MrSquonk's comment below -- Try coating the key and work it in slowly.  It's less messy.

LATE EDIT:  Comment below edited into the answer.  Please read full comment thread.

Yale USA says:

  Yale® KeyMark® cylinders are lubricated from the factory with a
  Teflon® lubrication. Cylinders should be lubricated periodically
  depending upon environmental conditions and usage. LAB Lube is the
  approved lubricant. Caution: It is not recommended to lubricate
  cylinders with oil or to mix lubricants. "

LAB Lube

Micronized polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) Powder
A dry white powder lubricant that will not "cake-up" as graphite does.
A superior friction-fighting agent


How to repair broken grout in shower tile?

It looks like the problem is not just the grout (which fills the gap between tiles) but also may be the tile adhesive is separating from the supporting structure (possibly plasterboard/drywall).

You can remove grout from between tiles using a variety of tools designed for this purpose. Then you can re-apply grout (and sealant if needed)

It seems likely that water has penetrated that structure, it might be best to open it up and assess what damage has been done and how the water got in.

In your case you may need to remove all the tiles, repair the supporting structure and re-tile. It's the only way to get the tiles to align neatly at the corners.


Kitchen sink stopped up and draining into diswasher

Try using a wet/dry vac to suck out material vice blowing it further down the pipe.  Worked in cleaning out my kitchen and bathroom sinks.


What’s asbestos look like on heating vents?

I would say that looks like asbestos that I have done remediation on the white fibrous and board like material usually are I can’t tell the maroon color it could have been painted to encapsulate it.
The only way to know for sure is to test but this looks like it.


Can you lay subfloor on concrete before framing interior walls?

I think you can do both, but framing walls on top of subfloor is potentially less work.

If you use a product like DriCore for the subfloor, they even explicitly recommend you frame on top of their subfloor product. They do, however, recommend you screw the framing through the subfloor into the concrete with something like 3" Tapcons spaced every 4 ft through the bottom sill of the framing.


I don't consider it any more of a concern than wood wainscot or a vanity that's not hermetically sealed to the wall. I take measures to prevent undue splashing in my bathrooms, such as using a shower curtain and teaching my kids proper behavior. With this approach you can have confidence that your nice, unique metal wainscot won't result in the fall of civilization.

I'd run a wooden cap as shown in the photo, and if you're concerned about water running down behind, seal against the wall with a fine bead of clear silicone caulk. It'll take on the colors of the wall and trim and be nearly invisible.


How can I attach plywood to a wall without damaging the wall?

You can hang the plywood panels with french cleats to minimize damage to the walls.  One half of the cleat is screwed to the wall and the other half is screwed to the panel.  Then they hook over each other to hold the panel on the wall.

Make sure the cleat is screwed into studs so it can support the weight of the plywood.  You can use a strip of wood screwed to the bottom edge of the plywood panel to hold it out from the wall even with the top cleat.


Nest thermostat causing condenser unit contactor to chatter when NOT calling for cooling

This is a hack, but....

Try replacing the relay with a much heavier duty one.  Specifically one with a coil that uses more power.  24v is a very common contactor voltage.

Here's one option from Grainger, but really any 24Vac coil voltage relay would work.  The contact rating must be equal or greater to what you currently have.  Aiming for very high voltage/current contact ratings, or relays with more than 2 poles will likely get you a higher-wattage coil, and that's what you want to reduce chatter.

The heavier duty coil will pass more current through without moving.  In fact you don't need to remove your current relay. maybe just connect another in parallel with it so its powered on at the same time.  Leave a note for why you did that, or the next hvac tech you have out might yank it and tell you how crazy the last guy must have been to put that there.

Or for that matter, you might be able to put any sort of load in parallel with it.  A suitably rated resistor for example.

I've used a nest for about 6 years myself in two different houses and what's happening to you is not normal.  It sounds to me like the 'support' you were talking to were grasping at straws.  I will agree with the other posters that Nest is junk, and you'd be better served returning it to the store.  Google will be discontinuing them soon, and you will lose control of your thermostat overnight against your will when they shut down the cloud component of it.

But since it's already installed, if you like it, there's how to make it not clatter.

There is also a small, but non-zero chance that the base plate of your nest is defective, or one of the connector pins on it is busted, and the c wire energy isn't making it to the nest itself.

Check the nest app or the thermostat's advanced/installer interface itself to see if it is AWARE of the c-wire's presence.  It should show you a photo of the wiring it detects.

If the nest thermostat itself (the piece that comes off the wall) does not detect the c-wire power, then it probably will "fall back" to stealing power from the other wires.

If both of your Nests have baseplates and you experience the same problem with both baseplates, then this is probably not the cause.  My first thought when I started reading your post was the c-wire was broken.  But you ruled that out with your voltage measurement.  Good on ya!


What size breaker and wire do I need for a kiln drawing 32 amps at 240 volts?

You would need a 40A circuit.  (80% of 40A is 32A, that's why the kiln is sized that way).

You would need to run wire large enough for a 40A circuit, i.e. 8 AWG in North America/CO/VZ/PH.


In theory, this will work just fine if you provide a way to collect the condensed water from the evaporator (the finned heat exchanger where the working fluid is evaporated to take heat from the "indoor" air). However, note that the more efficient window units take this water and spray it against the condenser (the other finned heat exchanger where the working fluid is condensed to pump heat into the "outdoor" air). This increases efficiency by making it easier for the condenser to transfer heat to the outdoor air (see heat of evaporation).

This is great for an air conditioner, but if you try to use such a unit as a stand-alone dehumidifier, with both intake and exhaust in the same room, then you'll just be pumping heat AND humidity from one side to the other, with no net gain (except for heating your basement). It's possible that you could intercept this transfer of water from the "indoor" to the "outdoor" side, but that would completely depend on the design of the air conditioner.


probably a bad circuit breaker, recommend replacing it.  You can check if it is bad by checking the voltage on it using an ohm meter.  Set the ohm meter to 200v ac, touch one probe to the screw where the wire is attached and the other probe to the silver grounding bar with all the bare copper wires attached.  It should read approx 120v.  Check both wires this way.  Start the dryer, if it doesn't have heat again... recheck the voltage on the breaker again.  I'm betting that one of the screws shows 0 voltage... my guess is that one leg of your breaker is bad or faulty.


stair riser variation between stairs and landings

Code says risers can’t be more than 8” high and can’t vary from the largest to smallest by more than 3/8”.  (See IRC R311.7.5.)

Treads can’t be less than 9” and can’t vary by more than 3/8”.


The only concern that I can think of is freezing; so many hours in the 20's are required to cause some freezing. It takes time to lower the temperature , then freezing require removal of a great amount of heat. Hoses will be the first thing to freeze. I had a 32 X 16 in the Chicago area and did not do much for winter ; I think I needed a new liner every other year. Many years there was about a foot of ice.  Putting in a liner was much easier than taking it down and putting it up. One year it did freeze solid ; an iceberg in the back yard.


Can the overflow pipe on the water heater be screwed off to replace it with a longer one?

Assuming you are talking about the temperature & pressure relief valve discharge pipe, yes, and that is generally a good idea to do. The closer to the floor the discharge pipe terminates, the less chance there is for scalding should it ever be used. In fact, it should terminate no more than 6 inches above the floor. InterNACHI (the International Association for Certified Home Inspectors) has a page on this for items for home inspectors to check, of which a few are notable here:

  discharge to a floor drain, to an indirect waste receptor, or to the outdoors.

  not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor or waste receptor.
  discharge in a manner that could not cause scalding.

Note, the discharge pipe should sit right above a floor drain; if you don't have a floor drain, you may want to consider installing one or discharging the T&P relief system elsewhere (e.g., outdoors, if your climate permits it).


Why did my dryer shut off in the middle of drying a load?

The heating element would not work at all if a leg is broken. If the clothes were warm when it shut down, then it clearly just happened. The online wiring diagram is virtually impossible to read, but it appears the heating element is interlocked through the motor controller. It's conceivable that if one part fails, the other is shut down, but it's impossible to tell from what I have available.

It makes complete sense to go ahead and repair the heating element since it is obviously broken. Don't worry about thermostats etc. at this point, fix what's broken and go from there. There's a fair chance that's all that's wrong.