I wouldn't attempt any testing yourself. That's likely to be costly and time-consuming and you may not learn much about real-world wear characteristics.

There are plenty of objective assessments of laminate flooring to be found, and product reviews by actual homeowners are almost more important. Visit a reputable website and do some reading.

The horror stories apply to cheap, off-brand flooring and improper installation. Pergo and other high-grade floors last for decades when not abused. Lay rugs in extreme traffic areas and keep the sand cleaned up and you'll be very happy.


Pretty much just moisture is the cause, not the house collapsing or anything like that.

The moisture may just be right above and at this beam or box in the form of a Mouse Infestation or by simply being the only place where insulation isn't. Where cold air slams into hot air is where condensation happens...insulation eliminates the collision so condensation doesn't happen in a gross amount.

The moisture's introduction could also be from a Roof or Plumbing leak or even an improperly installed exhaust fan from the kitchen and/or a bathroom(s). Their exhaust may not be going outdoors and is just dumping humid house-air into the attic.

On a much more rare level, it could be the combined efforts of air-leaking Electrical Outlet and Light-Switch boxes, poor fitting Attic Access Panel, shoddy or clogged Clothes Dryer vent pipe and even incorrect Furnace and Water Heater exhaust pipes.

Nothing's expensive and you can likely handle most everything yourself, the stores even have electrical box foam insert gaskets for both outlets and switches...usually in the Weather-Stripping section owned by Frost King.


Nope: That's modern drywall (a.k.a. gypsum board, a.k.a. Sheetrock).


Fixed: The blue wire connects to the top post of the terminal block the two White wires to the middle,  the yellow and purple to the bottom post.


Wire Ceiling fan with two switched hots and ground but no common wire

First order of business: fix the bootleg job

The original installer of the fan couldn't be arsed to put a /3 cable in, so they used the two insulated wires as hot and bootlegged neutral off of ground in the fan box.  Your first order of business with this project is to untangle the work of said dimwit, and that's pretty simple, as you figured out already:

Take the fan-half of the switch out of service by disconnecting it and removing the pigtail that went there
Take the black tape off the white wire at the switch end and bundle it in with the rest of the neutrals in the box
And, take the black tape off the white wire at the fan end and move the fan's neutral from the ground bundle to it

If you're content with using the remote as a (loseable) pullchain, this is sufficient, with everything on a single 3-way switch as a result of this setup.  If you want a better integrated system though, with wallbox controls and a remote that work together in harmony, then read on: there are two ways to skin this cat, each with different trade-offs.  They also require your fan to be compatible with third party controls -- some cheaper fans use an integrated remote system that renders them incompatible with wallbox fan controllers, unfortunately.

If you don't mind "point and shoot"

If you like an integrated, fully-supported system, but don't mind "point and shoot" operation, then I would look at the Lutron Maestro IR MIR-LFQMT family of combination dimmer/fan controllers.  These, as the name implies, use an IR remote control, similar in operating mechanism to a TV remote, to provide remote control functionality.  As a result, you have to point the remote at the master wallbox control to use it, which may or may not be an issue, depending on room layout.  However, in exchange for this, you get "out of the box" operation, with no configuration settings and minimal setup required.

In your case:

The master and accessory wallbox controllers can go at either position, replacing the existing fan switches -- common wire (hot or switched) to black, traveler wires to brass, and a ground pigtail to the green screw.
And the canopy module wires just like a normal fan remote receiver does

Once you turn the breaker back on, you will need to perform a brief setup procedure in order to establish communications between the master controller and the canopy module.  From there, you can enjoy your fan!

If you want more flexibility

If "point and shoot" remote operation is an unacceptable constraint, it is possible to build out a system that provides both RF-remote and wallbox control, but it requires some configuration work, and is a bit more expensive than the Lutron package.

You'll need for this:

An Insteon FanLinc fan/light canopy module
Two Insteon KeypadLinc modules (6 or 8 button, your choice)
An Insteon remote control keypad
And fan button sets for each (if you wish)

The FanLinc gets wired up at the canopy, just like any other fan remote receiver module.  The KeypadLink modules are both wired up as secondaries, with their line-hot terminal connected to the junction of the common (hot) and black traveler wires, the red traveler wire capped off at each end, their neutrals connected to the neutral bundles in each box, and their grounds tied into the ground bundles in each box.  Finally, the remote control keypad needs no wiring, just a good charge before you go in and start setting up the Insteon system to provide your desired controls.


What should I do after a low-voltage wire was cut putting the furnace door back on?

Shorting one of the thermostat wires to ground might have tripped the breaker on the 24 VAC transformer that powers the thermostat.

Another option is that you damaged multiple wires but only the white one badly enough to notice it.


Extend existing exterior outlet for grill island

On its face the idea seems reasonable. I suppose that at some point an outdoor kitchen would require the same kinds of things an indoor kitchen does (two small appliance outlet circuits, for instance). But if your grill island doesn't end up looking like a kitchen, it's probably reasonable to claim that an outlet attached to it is for landscape or general use and add it to the existing outdoor outlet circuit as you described.
There are many details to be attended, such as type of conduit, the depth it is buried, the type of wire or cable used, GFCI and possibly AFCI protection, and so on. But those are more relevant to "how can it be done?" and apply more or less the same regardless of whether or not a new circuit is added.


Should I be worried about these v-shaped cracks in my newly poured foundation?

Those cracks look like the contractors partially filled the forms with concrete and then allowed it to set up too much before coming back to fill the forms the rest of the way. It is probably not a really great problem as long as:

The wall has plenty of rebar embedded in it.
The outside faces of the foundation walls are treated with the appropriate type of water proofing.


Advice on cracks in wall and concrete garage floor

DO NOT ignore this issue. The rule of thumb is that if you can get your finger in a crack, it's a problem. You're saying 1cm wide, which is in the problem zone, IMO.

The cracks might stem from a bad concrete pour. In which case the cracks may have been there since just a few days or weeks after the pour. That certainly possible, and an engineer can tell you if it is.

It's also possible that something is seriously amiss. If so, and you buy the house, then you will be looking for someone to sue when the problem reveals itself more fully. Make sure you have an engineer's report in your pocket when that happens.


How can I stop loud rushing water sounds when we flush?

Find the water lines and put some insulation around them. That's about the only thing you can do without running a different kind of line.


Outside drain - how to replace this grate?

i don't know what the numbers mean but if you get a measurement of the opening and bring that to a metal fabrication shop they may be able to fabricate a screen for you. This would result in a small raised edge, but would eliminate the need to jackhammer the concrete. I don't know what area you live in but i know that most areas have some place like this by just doing a quick search on the internet


The diagram gives you three possible wiring options depending on your power system. The top one is for 415V three-phase (star), the middle for 240V three-phase (delta), and the bottom one for 240V single phase.

In a normal house the bottom one is what you want. Basically connect all the N terminals together, and all the L terminals together and those are your N and L points.

Note: the lower two diagrams are the same physical connectors as the top one - they just omitted drawing in the connection 7 that not used for the lower two diagrams.


Well you can do one of a couple things.

Stain the entire board.  This may be the easiest option, just clean up the drips down the side a bit (sanding them).  Then stain the sides and the back side of the board as well.  Rub it on, let it sit for a couple minutes and then wipe it off.  Unless of course as Keshlam mentioned you are working with a stain/sealer combo.  For reference stain sealer combos tend to fade much faster and protect for far less time.
If you don't for whatever reason want to stain the entire board simply sand the sides down and you're done.  It shouldn't be too bad since it ran down the sides, should not have penetrated all that much.  Make sure to sand evenly along the length of the side (including the spots not hit with the stain).


How to better isolate a floor with carpet?

When you install carpet you're first supposed to put down a carpet padding. This is available in a number of different materials including urethane foam and rubber though most commonly these days I see a recycled urethane product. It's main purpose is to prolong the life of the carpet by absorbing some of the shock of being walked on. It also provides a softer feel underfoot as well as some insulation.

If you want to increase the R value of the carpet padding, choose the densest and thickest padding recommended by the manufacturer for the carpet you're buying.

The Carpet Cushion Council (apparently it's a thing) has some example R-values for carpet padding listed on its website.


would a bathroom without a gfci outlet be a violation in a rented appartment

If you failed an inspection they must tell you why.

As Alt asked above, do you not have a receptacle at all, or is there one there but not GFI protected?

Under codes going back to the 70's bathroom receptacles must be GFI protected. Before that there was no GFI protection so an earlier installation could very well  have a non-GFI protected receptacle and still be 100% code legal, as long as no renovations have been done to the bathroom.

On to your question, again, if you failed there must be a reason for it. What kind of "inspection" was it? I don't know what Section 8 is, but if it's some sort of assistance program they tend to have some very strict rules and can make landlords do a lot of things a private rental would not have to do.
So in summary, you may very well have to install a GFI protected receptacle to be part of this program.


For anyone who stumbles on this, I went to two plumbing parts houses in town, the first one with the fancy showroom had no idea what it was and spent a couple minutes flipping through a catalog before giving up, the second old warehouse one the guy took a quick look and said "it's a chicago faucets quaturn" but they don't carry that line. So he printed out the part sheet for me and I found them on Amazon for $28 a pair. Thanks for all your comments and help!
The gasket kits to rebuild this cartridge cost more than the new cartridge, but I'm going to get a kit or two anyway since I've been burned with "new" cartridges that are all plastic when the old ones were all brass.


One portable air conditioner - want to use it in two rooms

While this is rigid, it is better for connecting flex pipe.


What dangers are there with disturbed asbestos drywall?

OK, let's take about 10 steps back...

If you bought this home from a prior owner, did you hire a home inspector? Did that home inspector mention anything about the possibility of asbestos-bearing material? Asbestos in drywall is one I haven't heard before, but before its dangers became known it was virtually everywhere, so it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest to hear a house built in the 30s-50s has asbestos-bearing drywall (EDIT: It's not drywall as we know it, but "Transite", used as wallboard in places that needed to be especially fire-retardant, contained asbestos from its invention until the 1980s. The brand name survived, so there is Transite-labelled wallboard available today which does not contain asbestos). If you hired an inspector (it's a good investment; about $100-150 for an extra opinion of the safety and worthiness of the house), and he missed this, I would be looking at a lawsuit. You probably would not have bought this house knowing that every wall is potentially carcinogenic, and to fix the situation correctly is going to cost you, bigtime.
You say the plumbing people found out it was asbestos during the job. They can often find this out pretty quick, and any licensed plumber would, at that point, order masks on and get his crew the hell out of that house. This is a HUGE liability for the contractor; anyone who works for him that can link exposure at a job site to health problems can sue his company and him personally if he was their direct supervisor.
A permit is basically required by Canadian building codes whenever there is a change to one of the five main components of a house; foundation, structure, electrical, plumbing and HVAC. So, if the OP is from Canada I wouldn't doubt he'd need a permit to replace all the pipes in his house.
Your first mistake was in apparently hiring a plumbing specialist directly. If a company "doesn't do drywall", they are a plumbing specialist. There is nothing illegal about that, or about what they did; they assumed that you, in hiring them, were taking on the job of "general contractor" and that you would be managing all the various parts of the project (which includes patching drywall, AFTER having their plumbing job inspected). A better idea would have been to hire a general contractor for any work that involves having to get behind drywall. At least, as you admit, you and the plumber should have agreed on the scope of ALL work to be performed and detailed what necessary work the plumbing crew would not be doing, if any.
Asbestos is "ok" to have, as long as you leave it alone. The problem is when you disturb it; it's very brittle material, and breaking it up will release thousands of small fibers into the air, which if breathed in will cause a variety of lung diseases like asbestosis (the asbestos-related equivalent of miner's lung), mesothelioma (a formerly rare lung cancer linked directly to asbestos inhalation), and "vanilla" lung cancers similar to what can be caused by smoking. Asbestos in the drywall itself is very troubling; you risk exposure just by hanging a picture with a nail. If you were in the house at any point during the job, you almost certainly breathed some of it in.
The first step to resolving this problem is to document. Find all documentation involving the plumbing job. Hire a general contractor or asbestos specialist to take a look and confirm asbestos-bearing material in the drywall. If you had a home inspection, find the inspector's report and read through it.
Asbestos abatement is not cheap. In a case like yours, it's a "level 3" decon, basically amounting to a gut of your house back to the studs, with specialized negative-pressure air handling, decon showers, water misting etc to make sure that the fibers don't get out into the wider environment. The house will be completely uninhabitable until they're done, and it probably won't pass a HUD inspection after that. If your drywall has asbestos, I shudder to think what various types of insulation in this home contain; you may be left with an uninsulated outer skin and stud frame, and - are you sitting down? - it might well be cheaper to condemn, demolish and rebuild the building from the slab than to try to save any of it.
It MAY be possible and code-compliant to simply patch the drywall. However, depending on how rough the plumbing crew was, it may require disturbing more asbestos. A good patch job involves squaring the holes that were made, so a square piece of drywall can be cut to fit in the hole, then secured, filled, taped and plastered. The job will need to be done with proper breathing protection, and it will raise more asbestos dust that you will need to eliminate. You may not find a GC willing to touch this job without having ALL the asbestos out (see above), as it's a huge liability to anyone he brings in, and even after he's gone it'll be tough to confirm that the dust is all gone.
In all cases, I would hire a general contractor to do whatever work must be done; the general contractor will be able to tell you what disciplines he'll need to bring in and when, will schedule all of them for you, will resolve disputes, and keep tabs of the money being paid. At least, a GOOD GC will. There are guys who will take your money and run.


Are cedar planks from a home center store suitable for a sauna?

You will not find Grade-A kiln-dried T&G cedar at a "home center".

Call a lumber yard. Not only will there be a competent human familiar with woodworking to talk to, they will likely be able to get almost anything you want and deliver it too.


How can I extend a circuit from an outlet in a wall to the surface of concrete with conduit?

Put an extension box (or box extender) on the outlet box, and run conduit from that along the wall, assuming you are OK with the aesthetics of that.
For a slightly "nicer" look, use wiremold instead of conduit.  I don't mind conduit, myself, and it costs a lot less.


Is this solid masonry or is it a "Thin Brick" system?

Due to the uniformity of the appearance, that does not look like Efflorescence to me.  It looks more like some sort of surface treatment added to the brick during the firing process or an acid treatment. These bricks have similar appearance...

http://www.glengery.com/brick-products/view-brick-products/item/1415186-bayhill-thin
http://www.glengery.com/brick-products/view-brick-products/item/16-cherry-lane

I'm not sure what you are trying to clean.  My suspicion is you've power washed the intended finish off of the surface of the brick.  I would do some homework...

Can you find the product literature for the brick by contacting the
builder?
Contact a local sales representative from a major brick
supplier (the Belden Brick Company or Glen Gery for example) and ask
for input - they should be able to tell you exactly what the brick
is, what it's supposed to look like, and how to treat it.

Try to find out what it's supposed to look like and how the manufacturer recommends you clean it before trying to treat it.  And i would choose a more discreet test location next time.


Since you have a push-button toilet, you don't have what would traditionally be considered a "flapper".  Flush-arm toilets have a hinged rubber stopper that's attached by chain to the flush lever, which opens when you rotate the handle.

I am not a plumber - this information I've been able to find by using Google and generally understanding how toilets work

Your toilet has a valve in that big cylinder on the right that acts in the same manner, being pulled up in different degrees when you push one of the two buttons.  Underneath the bell-shaped bit at the bottom, I'd expect to find a gasket that keeps water from trickling into the bowl.  Possibly the gasket is worn or bits of debris have gotten stuck under it, allowing some water to escape.

There's also the possibility that the gasket that seals the hole when the valve is closed is similarly worn in a way to allow some water past it when it's closed.  Either way, turn off the water to your toilet and empty the tank (flushing usually works), then take out the right-hand part and see if you can determine where water is getting past the seals.  I'm not overly familiar with this type of toilet, so I don't know if the seals can be serviced by themselves or if you need to buy a whole new flush mechanism.

The other half is your float and water inlet, you shouldn't need to worry about that if you've ruled it out as the culprit.


How to install new faucet with old water shutoff valve

All faucets now use standardized connectors for the water supply.  So yes, you should replace that water shut off valve with a standardized one - might as well do it now and save the frustration.


Using Quietrock drywall AND Rockwool Sound Insulation?

As you have noted too, sound proofing is a complex topic. Some published success stories are based on questionable data, others are based on specific cases, typically a basement / home theatre, or maybe a music room.
Sound proofing is expensive in terms of labour and materials, making it difficult to attempt by trial and error.
If your case falls clearly within the conditions for established practices, then those practices are your best bet.
I have found that rockwool provides mostly attenuation along its length and less laterally. It's great for stopping noise travel in joist spaces and other boxes, but less effective through it's mere 3 inches of thickness. Despite these reservations, stopping noise travel has an overall benefit, even in a wall, as noise entered at a weak spot in the wall (crack, outlet box, coupled vibration) does not travel to exit at another weak spot in the wall into an adjacent room. However, this is not your use case.
Your use case involves mostly higher frequencies, not drum-thumps or foot drops, and they emanate from any wall or window into the open.
Luckily higher frequencies are much easier absorbed or reflected.
If your intent is to sound proof an isolated out-building (garage) for the benefit of the neighbourhood whilst enjoying woodworking, there are a few easy steps you can take:

Make sure your inside walls are solid (crack & gap free) and heavy on the inside (e.g. double 5/8 drywall, mudded and sealed). This contains the sound by reflection.

Apply absorbing materials to the inside of the noisy space: it absorbs the sound as it reflects off surfaces, and will reduce the amount of high frequency noise emanating from the garage, no matter where the absorption is placed. You can even apply noise absorbing pads to the ceiling where it is least likely to collect saw dust. Best to use fire-retardant materials or pads.

The additional benefit of the inside-absorption approach is that any small exhausts or other small venting passages are no longer critical elements in the sound proofing.
It also makes for a more pleasant working space.


Can I replace my draft inducer blower with a model of a slightly different speed?

I found this statement from the manufacture (Fasco) of my old and replacement part:

  The blower is designed to produce a certain amount of air-flow measured
  in CFM (cubic feet per minute). The airflow in some furnaces is needed to
  create a specific amount of vacuum at the vacuum tap mentioned above. If the
  replacement blower is not the exact one needed but “looks close,” it may
  produce a lesser vacuum at the vacuum tap. This may not allow the furnace to
  operate since the furnace will not think the induced draft blower is operating

So the answer is, it depends on if the replacement part will generate enough CFM to trigger the pressure switches.  In my case, the replacement is slightly more powerful (higher HP), but runs slightly slower (RPM).

Happy to report that in my case, the new motor did indeed work correctly.


Fix leak between seal and shower door joint

you could always cut a small piece of urethane or silicone foam (closed cell only) and glue it into the gap on the static side of the opening.  it would act as a live seal that could adapt to the gap or move as the door rotates.

you might want to take some time to really clean the existing sealant/caulk out from all over and redo it.  also do the floor to shower pan joint.  use a good solvent to clean everything up and bleach all surfaces prior to re-caulking.  you have so much filth and mould there that new sealants wont stick.  a properly sealed shower assembly wouldnt let water into your ceiling below even if the door seals are not working.


Converting Tandem circuit with shared neutral to GFCI

Since my original answer was very generic to shared-neutral/multi-wire branch circut/MWBCs and tandems, and you've added a lot of new info, I exported it to this straw question here.  Here are my comments particular to this case.

The two breakers in each MWBC need to be handle-tied both for safety, and to assure they are on opposite poles, and to warn the next maintainer that these circuits are special.  2-pole breakers will also fill the bill.

That said, the classic "single-file" tandem breakers, as seen in your panel, are clearly built to be compatible with handle-ties if two such breakers are installed abreast. This would be an appropriate way to tie the MWBCs. It's possible it had been that way, and one of the breakers failed, and they found "classics" were no longer available and they had to take the "switches abreast" type.  If you find two handle-ties in the bottom of your panel, that's what happened.

On a fairly full panel like this, normally you get 2-pole with  quadplex breakers.  Your QO panel does not have quadplex breakers available.

The other option is simply splice both hots together onto a single breaker (or half a tandem).  That single breaker can be a GFCI.

Now it's time for GFCI

There's no such things as a duplex ACFI or GFCI.  They take a lot of space. Likewise no such thing as a quadplex AFCI or GFCI; but they do make them in 2-pole.

If you only need to provide GFCI to one of your multi-wire branch circuits, at first glance it seems like you have room. But you don't, because that would "orphan" one of your shared-neutral MWBCs.

Your best bet, then, would be to consolidate the two non-MWBC non-GFCI circuits (the top 2 breakers) onto a single duplex (which, notably, you have two of).  That will free up one more space, so you'll be able to give 4 spaces to the 2 shared-neutral circuits, allowing 2-pole GFCI/AFCI.  That is your best bet.

There's one more option; you are allowed to fork circuits right at the panel (i.e. have a circuit depart 2 directions out of the panel).  You could simply declare both MWBCs to be the same circuit. Both circuit's reds would go to a red pigtail; both circuits whites likewise, and blacks likewise. Then the 3 pigtails would go to the GFCI.   This would limit the current on each MWBC, obviously, but you might get away with it.

The best option yet

I'm sorry, but having seen you drop $40 on a GFCI you can't use, I cringe at proposing you spend $160 more.  This panel is stupid-small anyway, so why don't we kill two birds with one stone?

Go get one 60A 2-pole GFCI breaker and a 16-space subpanel.  Mount the new sub right next to this one. Fit the 60A GFCI here and use it to feed the main lugs of the new sub-sub-panel.  Any circuits you install in the new sub-sub will be GFCI protected by inheritance.  Install these circuits in the new panel using ordinary 2-pole breakers.

Now if you want the non-GFCI sub to be 16-space and the GFCI sub to be 6-space, swap them.  Either physically by tearing this panel out of the wall and terminating all its conduit connections to the new panel; or electrically by extending the feed wires to the adjacent 16 and putting the GFCI there to power this one.


This is complicated

Think for a minute.  Does your garbage disposal run continuously? No, why not?   Because there is a switch on the wall you must throw.  When the switch is off, does the dishwasher still work?  Ok, then clearly the two sockets on the receptacle are controlled separately.   That's easy to do by breaking off the tab separating the two screws.

There is no way to provide that with a GFCI receptacle.  You would need to provide GFCI protection another way.

Ok, go down to the service panel.  Is the dishwasher and disposal on the same exact breaker?  Is it a single breaker? A double-width / 2-pole breaker?  Two separate breakers, hopefully adjacent?

Reason I ask is it was common to put the disposal and dishwasher on a multi-wire branch circuit.  It uses a 240V double breaker (or 2 adjacent breakers) plus neutral to provide two 120V circuits on only 3 wires.  .  It powers one 120V load between black and neutral, and the other 120V load between red and neutral.  It is very common to punch this down to a 2-socket receptacle which has been split (and the disposal is also switched). ----  If you have this setup, you can easily fit GFCI protection by using a 2-pole GFCI breaker.  It's an expensive breaker but it protects both circuits, and any other way of doing this is rather ugly.  Remember the disposal must be switched, and you can't switch a GFCI receptacle.

If both dishwasher and disposal are on the same simple breaker, you can fit GFCI protection by fitting a plain 1-pole GFCI breaker.  You can also protect it with an inline GFCI device such as a deadfront, which would need to be along the circuit's cable between the receptacle and service panel.


What are my options to level out my air conditioner?

I would try getting a crow bar or 2x4 under the slab and seeing if you could lift it up enough to get some gravel underneath it to level it off.  Although this could be difficult if the ground around the slab is soft.

  Step 4: Check concrete pad on which
  condenser rests to make sure it's
  level. Set carpenters' level front to
  back and side to side on top of unit.
  If pad has settled, lift pad with pry
  bar or piece of 2-by-4, then force
  gravel or rocks under concrete to
  level it.
  http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-maintain-an-air-conditioner2.htm


Given your requirements, you don't need much for HVAC

For a shed the size of yours, just about any HVAC unit you can come up with will do the job.  The basic tradeoff, then, is "do you want to do the bit of extra work a subpanel entails for a simple storage shed, especially given that the wiring's in conduit and can be easily replaced in the future, or would you rather save some work and perhaps a bit of money now, at the cost of being limited in what you can use for a HVAC unit?"

If you want the cheapest way possible to do this, I would use a 20A, 2-pole breaker in the panel, feeding 4 12AWG copper THHNs (black, black or red, white, green or bare) in the conduit, and then use a reducer to interface the existing conduit to a non-fused air conditioner disconnect at the shed to provide the required disconnecting means.  This means you'll need a 115V HVAC unit, which are rather thin on the ground, though: the Amana PBH092G12CC is what I'd recommend as it's a full-fledged heat-pump in a through-the-wall package (instead of being a simple "air conditioner with a toaster element attached" arrangement).  This is plugged into a single 5-20R that goes to one side of the MWBC, while the other side feeds the light switch/fixture and a GFCI convenience receptacle.  Finally, at the disconnect, all the grounds go into the bonded bar provided, while the neutrals simply are connected together with a wirenut as they need to float.

The alternative gives you a 230V HVAC unit, but requires you to install a subpanel, complete with main breaker to serve as a disconnect, (our advice: go big or go home on subpanel spaces.  A 24-space, 100A or 125A subpanel would not be at all out of place here.) and a grounding electrode system at the shed in addition to the equipment grounding wire in the conduit.  Fortunately, two 8' ground rods driven 6-8' apart and connected to the subpanel with 6AWG bare copper suffices in most places, with a 15A or 20A 2-pole breaker in the subpanel for the single NEMA 6-20R for the HVAC unit and a pair of 20A, 1-pole breakers, one for the light circuit and the other for the GFCI.  All of this would go with 4 10AWG (black, black or red, white, green or bare) wires in the conduit and a 30A, 2-pole breaker for the feeder.  (The size of the subpanel's main breaker doesn't matter since it's just being used as a disconnect switch in this application.)

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

There's one other thing you'll want to do here, and that's use an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver to tighten all the electrical connection setscrews to their manufacturer specified torques.  This is required by 2017 NEC 110.14(D), and also is a good way to make sure your electrical system won't give you the loose lugnut!


Why does faucet work one day and not the next?

2) The knobs should pull off. They may be glued in place by mineral accumulation over the years; try wiggling them to break that free.

1, 3) Depends on the type of valve; several are in common use. You won't know what you've got until you have it open.


A crack in my foundation wall is leaking

Doing that will be virtually useless.  It may help when there is very very light water pressure for a little bit.  However note that by stopping the water from coming in temporarily that it will work harder on the cracked area.

Which means that the crack will grow larger faster and soon leak again.  You need to fill the crack with some type of concrete patching compound plus waterproofing (the outside) or what is usually the best method is chiseling out the cracked area and adding an epoxy to secure it.

Both of these methods have products that allow them to be done when wet however they are cheaper and more effective when completely dry.  There are epoxy kits that you can get for abut $200-300 in the US.  It is borderline DIY.  If you have things that you are trying to protect in your basement I would probably call a professional which isn't a whole lot more than the kit.


Trane heat pump compressor and outside fan do not start after being idle

I think I know what is going on (mostly).  the unit was running hot and it sometimes tripped when it stopped he overpressure or had a pressure spike as it turned off which tripped it.  I suspect the switch does not untrip once the unit sits and the pressure drops. tapping the switch reset it.  The reason the unit was running hot is that over time a mold/moss/dust layer had grown over most of the air handler; this was plugging the gaps between the fins and severely reducing the heat transfer efficiency.   I cleaned this off 5 days ago and thus far have not had to tap the high pressure switch.  One thing I cannot explain is that in my initial troubleshooting tapping the high temperature cutoff switch also started the unit but it only ran about 15 seconds and shut down; then tapping high pressure switch would start it.


Repairing a boom lamp that keeps falling

It sounds as if the knurled knob loosens over time. There are a number of solutions.

The knurled knob seems to be either the head of a bolt or a specialized nut. In either case, a washer between the knurled head and the body of the lamp arm may help. A flat washer may be enough.

If not a lock washer should help.

Another approach is a locking fluid spread on the threads of the bolt that prevents loosening, such as this stuff.

There are different versions, depending on whether you want it to be removeable or permanent.


Well chances are that below your stones is 5 - 8 inches of gravel. The amount of gravel depends on your climate and if the original patio job was done right. So to properly grow grass you will need to remove almost all that gravel and then fill it with soil. This would be lots of hard labor.

I would probably dig up a bit under one of the patio blocks and see how far down the gravel goes. If they used no gravel you could just remove the patio blocks, top off the soil a bit and plant the seeds. However, it is unlikely they didn't use gravel as your patio would become uneven fast.


Why does my cold water smell like sulphur suddenly?

I have to somewhat disagree with Ed, which is rare. When a problem like the OP described that springs up suddenly, it's probably not a water quality issue.  From wells, the water quality (or lack there of) is pretty consistent.    What the OP is most likely to have is an anaerobic bacteria colony somewhere in the cold water plumbing.  Sounds really nasty, but there is a fix. It's not uncommon, esp. when you have well water. I have had a similar experience at my home.  You have to bleach the system. There are various methods to do this. Ed Beal described one. Others involve pumping / circulating a diluted bleach solution thru the cold water piping. The most important part is letting it sit for a few hours for treatment.
This is sort of gross, but just want to warn you that after treatment, and you turn the water back on to flush out the bleach, the cold could be VERY discolored. In my case I had a couple of faucets where the water came out BLACK! Totally black. Even after flushing for a long time, you may notice a slight chlorine taste for a few days. ....nothing to worry about, it will go away.


Cleaning bathroom tiles affected with hard water stains

It needs to be something with acid in it like CLR or Whink. Read instructions thoroughly!!!!


Can I put a second layer of caulk over newly installed caulk to fill a gap?

Ideally it would be one continuous bead of caulking, however for 3/8" of a gap at the very top, you will probably be OK just adding a bit more caulking to fill it in.  However, if you don't want to have to touch it again for a while--and considering the low cost and relative ease of applying it--I think I would be inclined to remove the existing bead and apply a new one that covers the entire length. That way you don't have to worry about water getting behind it.


Do I need to replace water damage or just let it dry out?

Jeremy, I would strongly suggest you use a Multimeter to measure the water content in your wood flooring, and other materials around the sink.  Please view this link to a suggested meter you can purchase,  it has prongs so that you may penetrate into the wood with minimum damage and get a reading from the inside, as water can stay contained withing the wood.  If the leak was dried within 48 hours and you have a water content less than 16% on your wood and other damaged materials, then you should be safe. If the leak was not dried withing 48 hours, or the water content in the wood is higher than 16%, I would strongly suggest you hire a air quality inspector, he can take a sample from your kitchen air, and tell you if you have elevated amounts of spores indoors, and if you have mold species that can affect your health.  I would make it a priority to ensure moisture is not higher than 60% throughout the house as this can trigger mold to grow.  Some species are known to stay dormant for 48 hours and sprout airborne, which can cause further damage to the A/C system.
Also if you have access to a FLIR infrared camera, this can help you detect if there is moisture in the drywall, or wood frame behind the sink.
It is true that mold is in every environment but elevated amounts of certain species such as aspergillus penicillium, or stachybotrys can cause allergies or infections to your respiratory system.
I am a professional mold remediator, hope my advice is of help.


Why would unplugging an A/C unit restore power to a circuit?

I believe what Kris is saying is perhaps you should look at the back of the AC receptacle. Are the wires going to the plug all on the plug? If there are more than two blacks in a box we usually marrett them together with a pig tail that goes to you receptacle screws. Some people go the lazy route and poke each wire into the back of the plug, instead of making a pig tail. Over time things can become loose. I don't know how the brownout could contribute to this but electricity can be finicky in ways!


How to calculate cutting angle for a circle of tiles?

Assuming you are just going to tile a simple circle with a radius of 7', the calculation is easy to estimate number of tiles.

πR2 = Area

I'm going to use inches here: Radius is 84" = surface area of 22,156" squared.

It wouldn't be out of the question to calculate the number of tiles out of this, and add in a percentage for breakage/cuts. based on a 12" tile and 1/4" grout, I'd guess 150 tiles + 20% breakage/waste, or 177 tiles.

The next part gets more complicated. What I believe you're suggesting is cutting trapezoidal sections of tile, and arrange them in concentric rings. If you want to maximize the tile size, the pitch will be the same, but will not have the same layout on each and every tile. For each consecutive ring of tiles form the center, they will become more oblique and large.

I suggest doing an accurate scaled drawing in the spirit of what I threw together. Using autocad or sketchup would be highly advisable to make a 2D drawing. This is really the easiest way in my mind. Then you can have a firm plan of cuts, measurable angles, as well as a count of tiles.

Keep in mind, this is just about layout and measurements. I have NO idea of the tiles cut like this will be stable or if it will be easy to install.

Take your time, measure twice, cut once and when in doubt, step away and ask yourself "Is this work going to be worth the outcome".

Good luck and let us know how it goes!


Looks like a Western Conifer Seed Bug. Or what my family calls a 'stink bug' because they stink as a defensive measure or when squished. It's a pest but not harmful to humans. Just annoying.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_conifer_seed_bug


Replacing particle board underlayment and building up floor height to lay tile

Plywood would be a very good choice. You should consult the ditra literature for your particular joist spacing, however, generally the bare minimum thickness for plywood/T&G subfloor under ditra is 5/8". Plywood in general adds more strength to a subfloor than cement board, and given that you are going over it with ditra, it makes more sense to add plywood than it does to add cement board. If you are looking to come up around 1" you could use 1/2" or 5/8" ply + 1/8" ditra + 1/4" tile would get you pretty close to 1". In the context of tile, you want as stiff of a subfloor as you can get. Ditra is a great product and I have used it over major structural joints with no cracking of grout or loosening of tiles.


Venting computer equipment, and negative pressure in the home?

Negative presure is actually a serious problem.  Modern homes are tight enough that a negative pressure device like a dryer venting has the potential to pull negative pressure on the house and interfere with gravity (convection) exhaust stacks on fuel furnace, water heater, etc.  This is why heat exchangers are a thing, and many machines are now direct vented, with double vents, inner for exhaust, outer for combustion air.  (Bonus, the exhaust heat warms and dries the combustion air).

Also, it is a shame to throw away perfectly good heat.

The cheap way is to block doors open and set blowers/fans in doorways to pull the heat around the house.   In summer, open basement windows.   However this is not a reliable solution and requires a lot of awkward fans-in-pathways and manual arrangement.

Other venting plans are up against a basic fact: air is not a very good thermal transfer fluid.  Water is ideal, and adding antifreeze doesn't hurt much.

from here on out, when I say water, I mean antifreeze, ideally propylene glycol which is basically edible. A spill will bring vermin rather than kill cats.

Surprisingly little water flow will do a fine job of cooling a PC, even several chips plumbed in series.   (Another way of saying this is, heating water is hard).

Water cooling - push the water around

If practicable, use water-cooling on the equipment. This detailed "whole room water cooling" video series goes deep into the nuts and bolts of it.  They do a few things I don't agree with, like dingdonging together a bunch of PC radiators instead of just getting an old automobile radiator (with attached thermostats and electric fans) from a junkyard.

But the basics are the same: cooling plates on the hot running chips, pumps in the PCs, a hot/disposal water trunk, and a cool/makeup trunk.

Now in the simple version, you plumb all the heat outside, to an automobile radiator.  Keep its built-in fan thermostat and fans.   Wire it off a 12V supply, so the thermostat operates a 12v relay which supplies power to the fans.  Plumb it so water reaches the thermostat last.  That way the fans only run if they're needed, just like in the car.

In the more complex version, you make stop(s) and get to the automotive radiator last, but first, you make a tour around the house and use the water-heat "any which way you can".   Now this is very similar to hydronic heating systems used in wealthier homes in the US, and multipurpose boiler" systems in the UK.  I'm not an expert in those systems, so I'll explain the general gist.  And they may not be in this sequence.

First stop: household heat

You take hot water either to a heat exchanger in the furnace, or baseboard heating around your house, whichever is more practical.

In the normal state, water flow bypasses your furnace or baseboards and goes onto the next thing - that way it doesn't overheat your house.  When your house thermostat calls for heat, it stops bypassing and flows througH the furnace/baseboards.   You'll need a 2-stage thermostat (or 3-stage if you already have 2-stage).  You would want to program this as the first stage.  When the house is not warm enough, the thermostat will call first to use this free waste heat.  If that works, the thermostat will cycle it on and off (bypassing or not). If that is not enough, it will then call for your normal heat to fire up.

You need a diverter valve.  During a call for heat, the valve operates and forces water through the circuit.  If the little pumps inside the PC's can't push water around the heating circuit, you may want to have a booster pump turn on with the diverter valve. If the booster pump is a type that tends to block flow when it's off, you may not even need the diverter valve!

Other heat dumps, er, I mean uses

Next stop is the water heater.  The bypass valves will be a bit more complex, because if your heater is already 60C, you don't want to run 50C water through it.  Or you may have an on-demand heater and let your system "help it out", but in that case don't heat standby water 24x7, as this will breed legionella.  (A recently discovered problem that reared its ugly head in the Flint, Michigan water crisis).  There's a real science to getting hot water right, without scalding or breeding legionella.

Then you go on to any hydronic floor heating you may have.  Now, this is a bit of a problem, because if your servers aren't running for some reason, or if the furnace/baseboards have already taken all the heat out of the water, then no floor heat unless you have an alternative heating method.  The other option is to do the floor-heat circuit first before the furnace/baseboards, since the furnace has a plan B, and the floor heat does not.

Finally the outside radiator

Now if everything bypasses, or if the servers are making more heat than the non-bypasssing things can use... Then the heat winds up outside at the aforementioned automobile radiator.

The only other serious concern is condensation.  You don't want fresh cooling water arriving inside the PC colder than about 10C, as it risks causing condensation inside the PC.  This problem could be reduced by careful ducting around the outside radiator, so it doesn't convection cool very well, and needs the radiator's fans to run to be effective. When the fans cycle off, it shouldn't do much cooling.

If all else fails, have the PCs gravity draw from a tank of water above them, and have the radiator discharge into that tank.  That way the tank temperature changes slowly.  Then a bypass valve on the radiator when tank temp is below 15C.  The tank is to keep the bypass valve from rapidly cycling.


In the case of either plaster or Thermalite panels, plastic plug-type anchors should suffice. I'd use those sized for a #12 or #14 screw of adequate length (per the anchor manufacturer's suggestion), and be sure to drill exactly the correct size.

Be sure that you only leave the screw protruding only as far as necessary to allow the hooks to engage. Torsional force is what tears anchors out of walls, so you want to keep the load tight against the wall.


Replacing a single-pole switch with a dimmer

This is actually how you want to see your switches done. Except for the ground. You should always ground the switch when able and I don't see any reason why this one couldn't have been grounded. One of the wires into the box is the power (it's the wire coming off the switch that leads to the nutted group). The un-nutted black leads to your fixture. There's a matching white (neutral) that's pigtailed as well (you don't need to mess with it).

You should do as the instructions say and use only the screws indicated. The extra screw is for a three-way. Since the dimmer has a ground wire, just add it to the existing ground (bare) pigtail.


Floor plumbing pipe too far away from the wall for vanity

Yes, you can reroute the pipe.

1) Draw a diagram mapping out how you want the pipe rerouted.  Use 90 degree angles and remember you need to leave room for the trap which in your case will be an "S" trap (so named because it looks like an S that's been rotated 90 degrees.

This looks like inch and a half pipe but you can cut a piece off the top and take it with you to ensure you get the right size.

Get yourself:

a "stick" of PVC pipe of equal diameter (a stick is a piece of PVC 8' long - although some places sell 2' lengths and you can probably get by with one or two of those)
enough 90 degree connectors for the same diameter
several extra inexpensive connectors - both straight and angled - you'll use them to learn how to glue
either a hacksaw, a PVC pipe cutter
PVC primer (purple) and PVC glue (clear NOT yellow) - if unsure ask at the shop and show them what pipe you're getting
if you need new pieces to make the trap, get those as wel

(be prepared to go back to the hardware store 1 or 2 times - most plumbing jobs for me require 3 trips - 1 to buy the supplies, the 2nd to buy the stuff I forgot the first time, and the 3rd to buy replacements for whatever I broke during the work...)

Before you cut the pipe from the floor, make sure that you do not cut it so low that you won't have room to work.  You'll need a couple inches of exposed pipe to be able to glue the pipe properly and have room to hold it steady while you attach the pieces being glued.

Build your new plumbing pipe construction WITHOUT glue, cutting pipe to fit and putting it in place, making sure your pipes will be the right length and angles to get around the vanity and into position to fit the S trap.  There's really only one rule here - don't run any pipe uphill against the water-flow.  Other than that your pipe can go wherever you need it to.

After you've tested the fit and ensured you can get from floor to trap and trap to sink ok, number the pieces in order to be placed and then set aside.

USING SCRAP PVC PIPE LEFT OVER AND THE EXTRA CONNECTORS - test gluing a few times.  The glue process is as follows:

Apply a very light coat of purple primer to the outside end of the pipe and the inside of the connector.  The coat should cover the entire pipe in a band about 1/2" wide.
Apply a light coat of glue in the same places - again make sure the coat is complete - don't go too light - excess can be wiped up but shortage can't be fixed.
Insert the pipe into the fitting and apply enough pressure to squeeze the two parts together until snug
Hold for a count of 10 seconds
Release and wipe up excess

Test your new fitting by filling with water and ensuring it doesn't leak.  Do that 2-3 more times and then start gluing the real thing together.

The primer does two things - it cleans the fittings and it also softens the PVC temporarily.  Being softened it allows the PVC to bond very well with the glue.  Once the glue cures, the glued joint will be stronger than the PVC, if bonded properly.  Proper curing takes about 24 hours though you can usually use a drain like yours in about an hour, since there won't be any pressure.

Good luck!


Microwave trips the AFCI almost every time it is used

Your electrician is way wrong a 1.5Kw device only draws 12.5 amp a 20a breaker won’t trip below 2400w for current (usually beyond that for current based on an inverse time ratio).
Microwaves convert the power to RF the wave shaping creates harmonics that the AFCI can not tell what they are.
The AFCI thinks they are arcs and trips.
This tripping gets more common with larger microwaves and heavily loaded lighting circuits with electronic ballasts/drivers, and motor controls like for washing machines.
Electronic circuits have this issue and in some cases changing brands of AFCI device if possible may help.
In my state I the option I have with a dedicated circuit I can omit these devices in cases like these where the device is known to cause nuisance tripping so it would be worth checking your local code amendments.


How to insulate flat part of attic ceiling?

You can certainly put the R30 batts in between the 2x6 collar ties, but it won't result in an R30 ceiling installation, due the thermal bridging of the collar ties and the resultant gap above them between the insulation batts.

I think abetter plan might be to stuff the 6" thick insulation in between collar ties as normal, then lay another layer of 6" thick insulation batts at right angles to and on top of the first course, thereby completely insulating the collar ties and eliminating the thermal bridge.

Also, don't forget to install rafter vents on the sloped portion of the wall so that air from the soffit can flow up to your roof vents and prevent moisture damage inside the attic.


How can I mount a TV to the wall so that it folds away?

The question might be, where are you thinking to fold it away to? There is no room there. I would certainly try something like this first:

http://www.amazon.com/Coredy-Graphics-Multiple-Monitors-1920/dp/B0129CP6BO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448758981&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+vega+adapter

This would certainly be much cheaper and less hassle.

Start with the easiest cheapest solution and work you way up.

Save yourself lots of time and energy in the process.

Happy Saturday!


How to post mount flood light security lights

Just about anything you do will look like an eyesore unless you're willing to spend 300 to 400 bucks on a 12 foot light pole and bury it 4'. I have seen people take a 14' 4x4 and bury it 4' and run conduit up to an exterior junction box mounted on the flat surface but those posts have a strong tendency to twist. Check with your power company. They may have an outdoor lighting program that could help you on this.  Think about installing the fixture on one of your walls.


How can I protect this exterior outlet from water and prevent smoke leakage to the interior?

Let's start with the harder one here
Smoke
It looks like there's a gap in the stone to the left of the outlet. I would at least try to fill it with something (maybe caulk if you want the simplest route). Once that is done, examine the box under the cover. Make sure you don't see any other intrusion points for air. The good news is any exterior rated cover should have closed-cell foam to seal the cover itself to the outlet and box.
Water
The outlet is within 3 feet of a water source, so you're required to have a wet location cover here. The in-use cover you linked would work just fine.


Screw to the studs, behind the siding - you can screw through the siding, but expecting screws to hold in (just) siding is foolishness.

Look for the fasteners that are holding the siding in place to indicate where the studs are. Use screws (or short lag bolts) about an inch longer than the siding is thick.


Cold water frozen, hot drips but does not improve

If the cold water supply to the water heater is frozen, there's not going to be much/any pressure to push water through. Typical mobile home freezup is the supply line to the mobile home, not as much the pipes inside the mobile home. The three feet or so between the floor and the ground is a prime area for freezing and usually requires insulation and heat tapes to be reliable in winter.


Is cement board a better soundproofing material than 5/8 drywall?

The less dense material would be better for soundproofing, the 5/8" drywall.

There's a lot that goes into soundproofing and there's even professions within the construction industry that specialize in it, acousticians. That being said I did a bit of research with this in college and it turns out that less dense materials provide better soundproofing. The more air bubbles in the material, the more the sound bounces around before reaching the other side of the material.


Honestly if you have a contractor talking about basement flooring in a basement were there is a fear of moisture I would fire him on the spot if he mentioned installing real wood floors.  Even in a basement with no "water" problems the humidity levels can reek havoc on wood and warp it.  I see a bad wood install in a basement a couple times a year.  I can't tell you the last time I saw a good wood install in a basement.

XPS and plywood can work in a lot of cases.  However most of the time we carpet over this type of install.  For real vinyl click lock - the good kind that is thick and pure rubber... we slap this right down on the concrete with no barrier per manufacturers instructions.  If you give me a link to the flooring you are getting I can get more specific.


Fixing metal siding that is loose on garage

yes. screw it back into place. Use truss-head type screws rated for exterior use. Truss screws have a round very flat head. Drill pilot holes to fasten to frame beneath. Start your repair in the center of the loosened panel; working outwards in each direction. This will decrease the chance of the panel becoming distorted.  Apply 100% silicone along underside of panel to improve adhesion and waterproofing. I'd use as few screws as possible so as to not twist or wrinkle the metal siding. If you use urethane caulking it will not only stop water penetration it will adhere to the metal and framing much like a construction adhesive would. 2 for 1 as it were.


flow of water through a one inch id inlet pipe through a half inch water meter

A 1" water meter is a large meter. We have a 5/8" meter for a 2000 sq ft house on a 10 000 sq ft lot.  I think this is standard here in  Dallas.

It may actually make sense to have a meter which is smaller than the subsequent supply line that goes from the meter to the house. The resistance to flow of a section of pipe is inversely proportional to the cross sectional area but is also directly proportional to the length. So if the supply line is  long then it should be larger than the meter or the supply line will be the major resistance. You need to get the details from local plumbers and the city.

Some cities have higher mains pressure than others and so smaller meters would be OK.

In our case the 5/8" meter is at the street and a 3/4" (or 1"?) supply line goes from the meter 30 ft to a set of valves and Tees in a box near the slab foundation. The main line going to the house under the slab is 3/4". This reduces to 1/2" at various Tees.

EDIT
I misunderstood the question, but I think I understand it now. You want to know if the city should increase the size of the inlet pipe to the meter if they change to a larger meter, right?

That is a decision for the city. I suppose they have a protocol for that and you would just ask them what they do. Changing the meter or changing the city valve is done all the time, but I doubt that they will change any piping before the valve. I think the city would do what is necessary to have a higher flow rate that a larger meter would allow.


Is it OK to have ground wire connected to breaker box wall instead of neutral bus?

The panelboard will be bonded to ground, and according to the National Electrical Code (NEC) it must be done so using specific methods.

  250.8 Connection of Grounding and Bonding Equipment.
  (A) Permitted Methods. Grounding conductors and bonding jumpers shall be connected by one of the following means:

  (1) Listed pressure connectors
  (2) Terminal bars
  (3) Pressure
  connectors listed as grounding and bonding equipment
  (4) Exothermic
  welding process
  (5) Machine screw-type fasteners that engage not
  less than two threads or are secured with a nut
  (6) Thread-forming
  machine screws that engage not less than two threads in the enclosure
  (7) Connections that are part of a listed assembly
  (8) Other listed
  means

  (B) Methods Not Permitted. Connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used.

If the specific method used in your situation fits one of the methods listed above, then the panelboard is likely grounded properly. The ground and neutral bus bars inside the panel are surely bonded to the panel itself using one of these methods. Which means as long as the panel is connected to the system grounding conductor using an approved method, the system should be properly grounded.

If you have doubts as to whether or not the installation is correct. Contact your local government and check on any permits that were obtained for the work, and/or request the installation be inspected by the local electrical inspector.


What are the names of these tools and what are they used for?

A reasonable guess would be cotter pin extractors. Here's a picture of similar tool from Snapon. The bottom one looks vaguely like a different style with one pointed end to pull and a flat one to spread the pins.


What is this mysterious filter and purpose?

My guess is that you have a high efficiency furnace and they will have a way to get combustion air separately from the regular air stream. The image below depicts this as "combustion air" toward the top.

In more modern systems the source of that combustion air is a 2nd pipe going outside, so as to not create negative pressure in the living space that ultimately pulls unconditioned air in through cracks and leaks in the walls, doors and windows. Yours may be an earlier version from before they figured that out, so it is taking in the combustion air from the intake grill, but using a filter to keep from introducing dust to the combustion chamber and creating soot. It also means you can change that filter without going outside, so maybe that's deliberate if you live in a cold area.


What size breaker and wire do I need to run 2 GFCI receptacles and a flood light on exterior of my house?

There's no problem with anything you've suggested.  You can use a 15 ampere breaker to protect 14 AWG copper conductors, without a problem. If you feel that 15 amperes is not enough for the receptacles, there is no problem installing 12 AWG wire with a 20 ampere breaker. It's completely up to you what you think is best. If the cost difference is not prohibitive, it may be worth installing #12 on a 20A breaker. Especially if you think you might plug in multiple higher load items at the same time (George Foreman and electric mower for example), or may consider adding additional receptacles in the future.

There is also no problem using a junction box to provide power to different devices. As long as the box is properly installed, accessible, sized appropriately, and adequately sealed.

Nothing in electrical code says that lights and receptacles cannot be on the same circuit. It's more of a guideline than a rule. The general idea is that if the vacuum trips the breaker, you don't want to be left standing in the dark.

The only problem I see, is with the GFCI receptacles in your drawing.  You will not need two GFCI receptacles. You'll simply feed the second receptacle, from the load side of the GFCI receptacle. When wired this way, the GFCI receptacle provides protection to the downstream receptacle.


Why won't my water heater blower shut off?

It may be built into the design of the heater; kind of like most cars' cooling systems, the blower may be staying on to evacuate any remaining combustion gases and cool the heater element to preserve it. However, if it never shuts off, ever, there's probably a bad sensor or relay in the system that is keeping it running.


What type of Anode rod should I get for my water heater?

It depends on how much you want to spend, how old your water heater is and what kind of water you have. The aluminum rods are usually the cheapest followed by magnesium. The combination rods I don't have much faith in as the least noble metal is eaten away first. powered rods that will last a lifetime are very expensive due to the platinum wire used. Your water is high in mineral content the Iron and possibly sulfur (rotten egg smell) so Magnesium would be the most cost effective. (with Low mineral content Aluminum would be the way I would go). I did have a P wire system on a metal boat instead of anodes it worked well and I no longer had to change out several a year but a water heater I think P wire systems are overkill on a home system.
Make sure to turn off the water heater and flush it when installing the new anode this may help reduce the smell. Water heaters tend to last for ~10 years some 15+ so if you are at the upper end of the life scale you may want to go with the cheaper anode. Once the damage is done there is no way to reverse it.


How should I add 120V service to an outbuilding?

No, you cannot use the ground as neutral. If you want two circuits, you'll have to use four conductors (hot, hot, neutral, ground).

If the run is short enough, you can use 12 AWG copper conductors instead of 10 AWG.  Depending on the loads, 12 AWG should be good for between 50-100 feet. If the run is longer than that, or you'll have larger loads in the garage. Then you might want to go up to 10 AWG copper, to reduce voltage drop.

You'll want to install a 20 ampere double pole GFCI circuit breaker, to protect the multiwire branch-circuit.  Even if you end up using larger conductors due to voltage drop, you'll still only install a 20 ampere breaker.

Other Points:

You'll have to install a disconnect at the outbuilding.
If you install a feeder rather than a branch-circuit, you'll have to install a grounding electrode system at the building, and bond it to the grounding conductor of the feeder.
The feeder/branch-circuit will have to be wires/cable rated for outdoor/wet locations.
If you think you might need more capacity in the future, you may want to install larger conductors and a secondary panel to accommodate future needs.


Sill plates (thresholds) before floor tiles or otherwise?

In terms of the general process it's acceptable to do it threshold(sill plate) first but there may be specifics to the situation that we're not aware of. Contractors are primarily concerned with pushing the project along to keep pace, but occasionally to do that you have to do things out of sequence. An example would be, if the threshold is available but the tile isn't in yet, a contractor would be tempted to set the thresholds first. This might make it look like progress is being made but it could ultimately make your tile guys job a lot more difficult. If the guy contracted to do the tile work wants to do it a particular way, I would trust his/her judgement unless the contractor can produce a very compelling reason not to. In the end (however they do it) if the finished product isn't satisfactory it's on them to make it right.


Is there a type of pump or device that will sit on a flooded floor and quietly suck up a puddle of water?

Here is a sump pump that is quiet, has automatic on/off with the presence of water down to 1/4" and has thermal protection for less than $100. You have the option of purchasing a discharge kit that will work up to 24' and a little check valve as well. All items together are just over $110.


How do I diagnose weak water flow from tub faucet and shower?

Sometimes there is a screen in the shower head that can collect mineral deposits over time. They look kind of like white beads. Try removing the shower head and see if any more water comes out.


Electrical circuit with too many lights and receptacles on it

You will need at least 1 new circuit, and to break the circuit and install that new 15amp circuit (I am guessing the wiring is 14 awg). You can get things to work by removing some of the load but you probably have figured that out.

If you have room adding a breaker is not that hard but you will need to do some reading and ask more questions.

You cannot use 20 amp breakers on 14awg wire--you have to stay with 15 amp breakers unless the wiring is 12awg.

I doubt you have a short just a simple overload, so you will need to run a new circuit.

To prove it’s not shorted, turn the lights off, unplug things, then reset the breaker. Now turn each room on then off and start plugging things in. If a single device like a electric heater is on the circuit, just leave that unplugged and everything else will probably work.


How do you Connect Two Wall Heaters Two 20A breakers and One Thermostat?

You can't. Good news is, you can use normal 'stats like the Nest

Your system uses line-voltage thermostats where the 'stat itself switches high-amperage 240V.  Generally you can't control 2 separate circuits worth of heaters from one such thermostat, because most 2-pole 'stats only switch one pole thermostatically and the other pole is only turned off at the bottom (hard off) position. Your old thermostat is a 2-pole which switches both poles thermostatically, which makes it unique.  You'll be hard pressed to find another one like it.  No smart thermostats exist which are capable of it.

You must fully separate these 2 circuits, but that is impossible with the readily available stock of thermostats.  Therefore we are left with junking line-voltage control entirely, and going with 24V style 'stats.  The 24V control voltage can freely visit both circuits' heaters without restriction.

In this case you have a 24V transformer feeding the "R" and "C" wires.  A relay on each heater is activated by the "W" and "C" wires.  And a thermostat which uses "R" and "W" to call for heat, and "C" to power itself.   Very standard stuff.   Standard color codes are red for R, white for W, and blue for C.

Heaters usually have extra space for this sort of apparatus.  Each heater gets a relay (unless there's an advantage to putting the relays near the breaker panel), and the transformer can go near a relay.


Central Air condensate is pumped into a hole in the basement floor?

It's just a typical floor drain, and it's the ideal place to drain your dehumidifier. What you see is the water trap, which prevents sewer gas from escaping. It presumably connects to your sanitary sewer, so be conscientious about what you dump into it.
Here's a modern drain just to illustrate the trap concept:

image source


I did something similar to replace a chimney that was damaged in an earthquake and had to be replaced. Instead of building a new chimney I replace the old removed flue with 10 inch inside diameter stainless steel triple wall insulated stack piping inside of a tall chase. I built the chase much larger than your proposed 12"x12" size. My chase was, as near as I recall as it was about 26 years ago, about 30 inches parallel to the wall and 16 inches out from the wall. My structure was 16 feet in height so I framed it in two ~8 foot sections with conventional double plate between the vertical sections of studs.
I see no need to sheet out the sides with 3/4 inch material. Whatever sheathing is currently on your house should be a guide whether that be 1/2" or 5/8" plywood or OSB. In my case I used 1/2" plywood because it was a good base for the stucco exterior that was applied afterward.
So the crux of my suggestion is that you go a bit larger than your 12x12 size. It will be stronger. It will also be better looking in my opinion than the tall skinny box.


How should I mount shades with these brackets?

I have some of those brackets. In the picture, the bracket is sitting upside down, pick it up and turn it 180 degrees so the lever that moves is on the top. Mount it to the wall that way.

In the right picture, take the thing that moves and move it to the left so that the longest part is parallel with the left side of the mounting bracket using the right picture as reference.

Take the blind and push it up tight to the bracket and spin that moveable arm 90 degrees. Those 2 slightly raised tabs and that slightly raised tab on the moveable arm fit into the 2 curved pieces at the top of the blind support using the bottom picture as reference.

Once you spin that moveable arm, those raised tabs will now hold the blind in place. They are a pain in butt to use but they are what you have.

Do a "dry run" with the blind sitting where it is and try to fit the bracket into that top channel. Remember to move that moveable arm to the left in the picture before you try to mount that bracket so the tabs (3) are on the same side. Then fit the bracket to the blind and move the movable arm about 90 degrees so it's tab is forced under the opposite lip.

Try it a few times you will understand how it works. When hung correctly, the curved tops of the blind sits on those 3 tabs. (2 tabs in the front and the moveable tab in the back). When you are mounting the blind, that moveable arm will be sticking straight out, stick the blind over those 2 front tabs, push the blind up tight into the bracket and lock it in place with the tab on the moveable arm.

Job done. hope this helps.


Any Way To Run A New 3" Pipe INSIDE An Existing 6" Pipe & Have The 3" Pipe In A Fixed Position Inside

There are products called "pipe casing spacers" which can be used for such a purpose.  I'm not meaning to endorse this particular brand but this is an example of such a device:

Pipe Casing Spacer

A drawback, however, is that the original line will be significantly blocked by the combination of the new pipe plus the spacers, so if you need to maintain flow in it, what you get will be quite a bit less than what you currently have.


Determine which way to place beam for maximum strength

Always for the most strength, place the beam so the 4" faces are the top and bottom and the 6" dimension is the height.

As a mention I hope you are planning on adding posts or some means of support in the center. A 16' beam supported by the ends only will not hold up a deck.


I would use a push-in connectors like https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p29476
Just add extension wires.


Where can I find a reversible 1HP motor compatible with my home outlet?

I think what your looking for is a hoist.  There are manual pulley versions for under $30 and electric 1/2hp and up running on 120v ac starting around $100.  They come with the switch you spoke of already.  You might check the Chinese freight stores that receive their goods at the harbor. . (Not an endorsement).   I start many of my projects there and modify as needed. Often many mods are needed just to meet intended use, but the hoists seem pretty straightforward.


There are three typical reasons to have two black/white/ground cables going into an ordinary duplex receptacle:

1 - Separate circuit for top and bottom to get more power - i.e., 15A on each outlet instead of 15A for the pair together. In this situation the receptacle would have the tabs broken off, cables supplying power coming from two different circuits, possibly sharing a neutral as a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC) or possibly just two entirely separate circuits. Connecting both cables to a new outlet with the tabs in place would trip the breaker as described. However, the pictures you posted of the old receptacle clearly shows the tab (at least one side) intact.

2 - One outlet on a switch and one "always on". This is often done to have a light plugged in and controlled with a switch while still having some power always on for other devices. In this case typically, but not always, the power would all come from one circuit. The tabs would be broken off. The result, if you connected a new duplex outlet without breaking off the tabs would typically be that both outlets would be always on and the switch would be ineffective - but the breaker would not trip. There is also a possibility that a switch loop could be messed up here, causing part of the problem.

3 - One cable "in" and one cable "out". This is very common. You have a chain of receptacles, each with two cables, except for the last one. If that's the case, the preferred method (as I have learned recently) is to pigtail and only use one pair of screws on the receptacle, but using both one set of screws for each cable, with the tabs in place, would work just fine. But that would not explain the breaker tripping, and you would also have other receptacles or lights or something not working any more.

Take a look at the old outlet and the new outlet. The new outlet has a connection tab on each side between each pair of screws. If the same tab on the old outlet was broken off then the old outlet was fed either by two separate circuits or one receptacle was switched. If that is the case then you can either use one set of wires and cap (wire nut) off the other set of wires, or you can break off the tabs from the new outlet and wire one pair to the top and one to the bottom.

However, if this is the situation then:

If there were two circuits then you should have TWO breakers that need to be turned off to get both circuits turned off, not one. If you really only needed to turn one off then there is something else going on. If you really needed to turn off two breakers and didn't realize it, then you are very lucky.
The wires should be in clear pairs. (I believe you have confirmed that with the later pictures). If it is not 100% clear which white goes with which black then STOP. If the two circuits are a multi-wire branch circuit then the neutrals are shared and it doesn't matter. But if they are two totally separate circuits then this matters a lot as the neutral and hot have to match.

After all of that, I am a bit baffled. A tester to check voltage would really be helpful here. There could be hot/neutral swapped somewhere along the line (dangerous, but would explain the problem) or something else.

Also, as Harper noted, the backstabs are a very bad thing. I don't think they are the problem here (except perhaps why the original outlet went bad) but they are frequently a source of problems. But with my understanding of the nature of the backstab problems, that wouldn't explain the problem you are having with the two cables tripping. In any case, do NOT use backstabs on any new receptacles, and if you disconnect any backstab wires, reconnect them only to the screw terminals.

The key thing now is to figure out whether both cables are hot or not. If they are both hot then you should only be using one with tabs in place. If only one is hot then you need to figure out where the other one goes to check for problems at the other end.


Am I required to use footings when building a deck or can I just have the posts resting on the ground? (Wisconsin)

So I was able to get confirmation on an answer from a local building inspector. As per Wisconsin Administrative Code SPS 321.15(2)(f)

  (f) Deck footings. Decks attached to dwellings and detached decks which serve an exit shall be supported on a structural system designed to transmit and safely distribute the loads to the soil. Footings shall be sized to not exceed the allowable material stresses. The bearing area shall be at least equal to the area required to transfer the loads to the supporting soil without exceeding the bearing values of the soil.

SPS 321.15(2)(f)

So in essence, if there is a door that leads onto the deck it must have proper footings in the ground (as explained to me).


I really think a palm sander is the wrong tool for this job.  Palm sanders are great for finishing with finer grits but lack the power to remove layers of paint quickly. The siding job you are starting would go a lot faster with a 5 or 6 inch dual action (DA) sander with prepunched velcro backed sandpaper disks. There are several nice ones for under $100 and buying disks in contractor packs is a good value. I have two Ridgid 5 inch DA sanders and have used and abused them for years. I think HD sells them for about $70.


How would I go about Tiling this Basement Bathtub wall?

Decent look is verging on "close as decorating advice" but if you have 3x6 tile and a 5-1/2" angle section, you trim the tiles on both sides to get 2 tiles centered on the section - or you find some tile that happens to be the right size and have an "accent" that's different from the rest of the tile job (some deep dark color, or that tumbled stone stuff, or glass tiles...) offsetting the rest of the stark white tile job.

A section of herringbone seems to be a common "all subway tile" accent technique.


Is an electric heat gun powerful enough to help aid in metalwork?

The electric heat gun of the typical 1500 or 1750 Watts would not be particularly capable of heating the metal up to the red temperature where it gets more malleable. Especially for metal that was 1 or 2 mm thick. The metal acts too much like a heatsink.


For new construction, which flooring is greener: laminate or engineered?

Engineered Hardwood
Core: Hardwood, Plywood, or High Density Fiberboard (HDF)
Top Layer: Hardwood veneer
Pros:

Made from real wood, so it's biodegradable.
Limited manufacturing.

Cons:

Made from real wood, so trees must be cut down (and usually the really good trees that take a long time to regrow, because they tend to be more attractive on the inside so people like the look better).

Laminate
Core: High Density Fiberboard (HDF)
Top Layer: Photographic applique with clear protective coating.
Pros:

Made mostly of manufactured products, so less trees have to be cut down.

Cons:

Made mostly of manufactured products, so requires more manufacturing (which could lead to more pollution).
Made mostly of manufactured products, so may not be as safe to discard.

Laminate flooring is considered to be more "green", since it doesn't require loads of trees to be cut down. However, it also requires more manufacturing, and may include chemicals that could impede biodegradation. Without knowing the "greenness" of the manufacturing facilities, it's impossible to determine a clear winner. Unless you're only concerned with trees being cut down, in which case laminate wins.


Rather than using a bracket, it seems like a better looking solution
would be to predrill holes where you want these brackets in the
whiteboard and fasten the board to the wall with bolts instead,
similar to the method you used at the top.
If you feel that a bracket is the way to go, you could grab a few of
those "L" steel angles that they sell at home depot (see the image
below) and fasten to the underside of the whiteboard with the
appropriate fastener for the whiteboard's frame material. You'd want
to install about 4 of these.

Another bracket solution would be that Simpson Strong Tie also
produces a Z-Clip shown in the image below. It would be able to
resist the loads that the board would apply to it if you have
already fastened at 2 points on the top. If you can cut back the
tray and compromise on the 2" to say, 2 5/16", the Z2 would work
well for this with wood filler between the bracket and the white
board.


After a minute running, dryer trips main breaker outside the house, but no internal breakers

It seems to me, after reading all the stuff in your first question and on here that the problem is inside your cloths dryer. There is a good chance that some part of the heater coil is becoming shorted out and causing huge amounts of current to flow when the coil becomes hot.

The probable reason that it is the main breaker that trips is due to that breaker being the most sensitive to the sudden current surge short that occurs in the dryer. It may be an indication that that main breaker needs replacement but before even going down that road it is time to unplug the dryer and do a through investigation of its innards, particularly its heater unit and the wiring thereof.


Lutron Caseta smart dimmer with Pico remote in 4-way switch set up

The pictures that you link to do not provide enough data to be able to give you specific guidance. Basically all that can be seen from those pictures is which switches are 3-way and which are 4-way. Oh and in addition where crappy back-stab connections are used. Additional pictures would clearly show the back inside of the electrical boxes so that the incoming and outgoing cables in each location could be checked to visualize the way the circuits interconnect between the four locations.

I really recommend that you install the actual dimmer at the location of where one of the end point 3-way switches are located. Ideally you will select the location where there is a neutral wire located so that you can use the Caseta dimmer that has the neutral connection. (I know that there are Caseta models that will work without the neutral connection but with the use of the neutral gives you more freedom on the types of lights that you can control).

From  your pictures I can infer that your four way switches are using both black and white colored wires to act as travellers. This is a strong indication that there is not a neutral connection run through the 4-way switch box locations. If a neutral was present it would be far more likely that the wire pairs connected to the 4-way switches would be black and red (or some other color that is not white).

The above observation is the reason that you want to study the 3-way switch locations carefully to see which location has a neutral present. If the power feed is coming to this switching circuit from one of the electrical boxes where the lights are located it is possible that neither 3-way switch box will have a neutral.

On the other hand if one of your switch locations is in an electrical box that already has two or three switch units then there is a high degree of possibility that this electrical box has the power and neutral feed coming into that box.

You should not really have to care what location that you place the actual smart switch from a usability perspective. Any of the other locations will have the Pico remotes and once installed and paired with the smart switch they provide the same level of functionality from any one of your current four switch locations.

The Caseta installation instructions will show how they recommend that you bundle the traveler connections in each electrical box to allow bypass across the two 4-way switch locations. I suggest reading through this multiple times to get a good understanding of how this will work. Also if you do not fully understand how conventional 3-way and 4-way switches work in a multi-switch arrangement I would also strongly recommend spending some time researching that subject. It will give you a much better basis to understand the Caseta smart switch installation instructions.


NEC 2020 is not a law.  It is a model law, which states and municipalities are free to adopt or adapt as their law.

Your state decides when (or if) which parts of 2020 NEC become law.  I expect places like CA where exterior panels and disconnects are common, will probably acquiesce to exterior disconnects, and places like IN or OH where they are uncommon, will not.


Water seepage around the water main pipe's underground entry hole thru concrete foundation

I'd shut off the water from the outside, remove that PVC repair sleeve and clean/scrape all the gunk off the wall and pipe. Clean out the space between the pipe and wall as good as possible. Then get some Wet patch or Siliconizer and meticulously fill the crack between the wall and pipe, compacting the filler as you go. Then apply a final coat over the wall area around the pipe. Install your repair sleeve or sweat a copper repair sleeve or Sharkbite connector and wait for rain.


Do I need plumber putty or would the already existing rubber gasket seal this sink leak if installed properly?

By having one bolt missing you actually prevent a seal from being made.  The two bolts you have only apply pressure on one side of the flange, effectively separating it on the other side.  I doubt you will ever get a reliable seal under this scenario.  As Solar Mike recommended, install the third bolt.
Regarding plumber's putty: the putty is a good idea because it is flexible and is not susceptible to cracking the same way a rubber gasket is.  That being said, whether you use putty or gasket ultimately comes down to the fitting type.  Fittings that have a lot of surface area (and are not pressurized) like the strainer basket are ideal for putty.  On the other hand, if the surface area of the seal is small then a gasket will get the better seal...provided it has all the bolts.
From your picture I cannot tell where the gasket is (maybe I can see it if I squint) but I'd say that if it came with a gasket then you need a gasket and you need that third bolt.
Regarding use of silicone: I advise against it.  It may get a good seal (may not!), but it is designed as a more "permanent" solution.  If you ever take the disposal off then you will have to clean all the silicone off before reinstalling otherwise you may not get a good seal.


What type of backer board do I need to use to attach a stone veneer around a fireplace?

Drywall is out of the question due to weight, plywood might not give you the proper adhesion.

I would start with cement board, then attach the metal lath to that.  After the metal lath is secure, you'll have to apply a scratch coat of a sand and cement mix before applying the stone.

Here is a good guide for applying stone veneer.


Your toilet and washing machine standpipe probably empty into the same pipe.

There should be a p-trap at the bottom of your washing machine standpipe that always holds water, sealing it so that sewer gases cannot enter the building through the standpipe.

There should also be a vent pipe running upward from the washing machine waste pipe, just downstream from the standpipe's p-trap. It has to be in a position where the slope and distance down the pipe ensure an air gap (consult the plumbing code).

If there isn't a vent, there are a few things that could potentially happen.

One is that when water is flushed through the washing machine drain, the pressure could suction the water out of the p-trap, leaving it unsealed. Sewer gases would then enter the residence through the open pipe.
Another is that the sewer gases have higher pressure than the air in the house. So if the vent isn't there to allow the gas an easy path out of the house, it will bubble up through the water in the p-trap.
Another possibility is that the pressure from flushing the toilet is suctioning the water out of the p-trap at the bottom of the washing machine standpipe because there's no air break (the break--free flowing air--defeats the hydraulic pressure that could otherwise "suck" all the water out of the p-trap).

If there is a functional vent in the right place, the free flowing air through the vent will cause a break in the suction that might otherwise pull water out of the trap, and it also provides a low-resistance path for the higher pressure sewer gases to take, so that they don't bubble up through the trap into your dewlling.

It's also possible, assuming the plumbing is correctly vented, that the vent stack is plugged somewhere. Bird nest on the roof in the end of the pipe?

If it's a remodel, I suppose it's also possible that there is no p-trap on the washing machine standpipe at all, in which case sewer gas would flow freely into the laundry room.

It's also possible that you have a broken pipe, either the vent pipe or something downstream from the p-trap in the laundry room, or that you have a badly-done joint in the vent stack that is leaking gas into the room.


Most have a wire bar that sits above the ice tray. As the ice cubes fill the tray, the bar is raised and eventually raises high enough to shut off the icemaker.  The bar must be DOWN for ice to be produced.

Or, there's a control somewhere that needs to be selected.  Probably in the refrigerator (not freezer) compartment.  Knowing the model would help.


Intersystem grounding bus ran out of terminals; now what?

Nothing in 250.94 is intended to prohibit multiple IBT bars, so get another one and toss it on the same conductor the first one is attached to

The concept behind the presence of 250.94 in the NEC and its requirement for an intersystem bonding termination (IBT) is to provide installers of auxiliary systems (such as telecom, antennas, alarms, and such) a convenient, centrally-located place to land the bonding conductor that connects their ground point (ground block, protector, or auxiliary ground rod) to the electrical system ground.

As a result, and according to this ASHI Reporter article, nothing in 250.94 prohibits multiple IBTs from being present in a building.  In fact, there are situations where fitting a second IBT would be encouraged to avoid telecom installers giving up on reaching an IBT simply because they are not equipped to reach the existing one from where they are at.  As the article states:

  The author suggests that a best-practice IBT deployment would include an interior IBT device at the service equipment location — typically the main electrical panel — and an exterior IBT device at the service entrance location. Such a plan will accommodate almost every possible grounding and bonding scenario for one- and two-family residential dwellings. The Code requires only one such device, preferably mounted on the exterior in the case of residential structures.

So, you can simply get another GBB5 (or equivalent IBT device) and attach it using the lay-in lug to the same grounding electrode conductor the existing one is attached to, then attach the unterminated communications bonding wires to the new IBT.


Use a roller to get the most Paint onto the door, only for 1/3rd of the door at a time & immediately Tip or Lay that area off. Tipping or Laying off is using a Paint Brush in the direction of the wood grain or simulated wood grain. Meaning, you even get the meeting joints perfect as well. You never want to just roller a door or trimwork, it looks horrible & is a very obvious Bad Paint Job.

Only Paint the top & bottom of the door if they've never been Painted & then only after a Primer coat & only every 20-years. They just need to be sealed but they don't need any regular refreshing that may hinder operation of the door.

Never Paint the locksets nor their latches, tape them or best is to spend the 1-minute it takes to remove them. If you don't want to remove the door & the top & bottom don't need Paint, then tape the hinges & even overly tape them to trim the tape off with a utility knife. Priming & Painting under the hinges, latch(es) & inside the lockset holes should also be done once & then every 20-years.


Envi Heater and safe distance to hang art

Get a stick-on thermometer, and stick it on the wall where you want to put stuff.  See what the temperature is.  That will tell you if it is a safe temperature range.


Can I install a subpanel for an electric water heater next to the main panel?

Can you install a sub panel next to a main panel. The answer is yes what it is for is not an issue.
However you have a maxed out panel, a maxed out panel doesn’t mean it can’t be done.  Tankless water heaters are power hogs and your existing panel probably will not have the ampacity to carry the load even understanding a 30 amp 240v breaker will be removed.
I have installed quite a few tankless and for a whole house model a new larger panel is almost always required.
Just a side note you really should talk to several people that have whole house tankless, I had a customer that put a whole house in with a new service then we added point of use electrics in the bathrooms and kitchen he was so unhappy with the unit that he removed the tankless went back to a large tanked electric but kept the point of use electric heaters cost over 10k
I have had multiple customers unhappy with the performance of tankless electrics and I am happy to put them in good $ but don’t like unhappy customers.
Yes you can add a sub but we don’t know if your service is large enough to supply a load this large in addition to your other loads.


Control individual bulbs in a 6-can dimmer series

When the smart bulbs say "dimmable", what they mean is you can dim them via the smart control system built into the bulb.  They do not mean you can put them downline of a dimmer.  They especially do not mean you can do both at once!

This is something we see a lot of, people getting a bunch of random lighting-control parts and expecting it all to just "automagically" work together.   Nope.  One control system at a time.

If it's not the only light in the room, I would advise bypassing the old dimmer entirely and just hardwire always-hot to the bulb sockets. Otherwise, yank it out and replace it with a plain switch, but expect weirdness if you try to control the lights both with the WeMo and the plain switch.


Fixing a broken pipe underground without breaking the floor

The answer to your question is "yes" - but it's a specialist job.  For example http://insitudrain.co.uk/commercial-industrial-services/cure-lining/ can remotely apply a liner and then cure it. (I found them by searching for "in-situ drain repair".

If you are contemplating a DIY approach, it's probably easier to dig down, repair, and make good.


Nice Pics.  For a good temp fix on this drain line, I'd recommend "Seals All". This avail at any hardware store.  As far as a permanent fix, you may not have to deal with the copper, but you will have to cut the PVC in an area where you can fit a coupling and replace the parts to the copper.  Thread on  the new adapter to the copper and use a PVC coupling to reconnect to the rest of the drain.  This will mean some cutting, primer and PVC cement.