There are snakes designed for clearing clogs in a toilet. They typically have a 3-foot tube with a rubber piece on the end, and the spring part goes through the tube and the rubber piece. The rubber protects the toilet from being chipped or scratched by the snake.

The type of snake talked about in your linked question are designed for use in cleanouts where the is no p-trap. Using one of these snakes in a toilet or a p-trap could scratch, crack, chip or break the toilet or p-trap. I have seen a plumber pulling on a fat snake that was down a toilet actually shatter the bottom of the toilet.


Is a flexible coupling okay to use on an ABS furnace exhaust pipe?

The short answer is that you'll have to consult your manufacturer's installation specifications.

Some furnace manufacturers specify only Schedule 40 PVC. However, some water heaters ship with couplings intended for use on the exhaust duct, so it's probably not accurate to say that flex couplings can never be used.

If you find that they're allowed, I'd probably use a shielded (metal-wrapped) coupling, especially since this is a horizontal application. You don't want the rubber carrying any load.


I use a plate tamper. Most of the hardware stores, garden centers, and big box home improvement places around here carry them.

Image from http://www.naturalbuildingblog.com/tampers-from-building-supply-centers/


Can I raise the floor of a culvert with concrete?

As I mentioned in a comment, a lowered pipe shouldn't cause a backup. The high point in the system is where the water level stabilizes.

That said, I see no reason why a concrete enhancement would cause problems on the intake side, assuming adequate flow volume remains. You wouldn't want to reduce volume on the outflow side as this could result in foreign object obstructions.

Also, you'd use a standard concrete mix, and not an overwatered mix, which would be weaker and more prone to disintegration. It's not difficult to level concrete with a little agitation.


It kinda depends on what you’re going to store up there. If it’s Christmas decorations and your empty suitcases, then that’s pretty minor load (maybe 10 lbs. per square foot). However, if you’re a machine shop salesman and you’re storing large steel samples, then that’s significant (maybe 100 lbs. per square foot).
Let’s assume something in the middle like 50 psf. (You can spread your stuff out to double check my guess. Residential construction requires 40 psf, but if you look around you’ll see empty spaces...your loft probably will be piled sky high.)
Therefore, at 50 psf there is about 5 psf for Dead Load (the weight of the lumber, etc.), which leaves about 45 psf.
Depending on the species and grade of your joists, 2x10’s can span 17’-6” and support 50 psf when installed at 24” on center or about 66 psf at 16” on center spanning 17’-6”.
1/2” plywood can span 16” or 24”, but will sag if heavy things are installed on joists 24” on center...it won’t fail, but will look unsightly after awhile if that’s important. (You can always increase the plywood to 5/8” if you’re concerned.)
I like the ledger idea because it keeps all the posts out of the garage. The load on the ledger is 50 psf x 17.5’ / 2 = 425 lbs. per foot.
I’d use 2 - 1/2” wood lags at 32” on center into a 2x10 ledger, which equals 660 plf. (I’m assuming your studs are 16” on center.)
The load is now transferred down to the footing. Adding 425 plf to your footing is not much. However, if you live where it’s swampy, or you have other loads on those footings, you may want to consult a structural engineer or architect.


Extension cords flexible in cold weather

You may notice a child's outdoor toy blanches and cracks in 6 months from UV from sunlight, but your car's interior holds up for 20 years despite much hotter conditions.  It is a different grade of plastic.

Also, nothing requires a cable claim every rating it's entitled to, or it may comply mostly, but fall technically short of what is needed for the rating.   You're always allowed to make a great product.


Any Issue Adding Garden Hose Bib To Soft Water Side of Water Loop?

I see no problem with using softened water to rinse your car with.  You do understand that it will cause you softener to cycle slightly more often and use a bit more rock salt.  It that valve accidentally gets used to water the lawn then the cost could be noticeable.


Running electrical cable within dry wall

The short answer: no. Electrical cable needs to be stapled to the side of the studs, halfway between the two walls, to minimize the risk that anyone will nail or screw into the electrical wire and electrocute themselves. Any time an electrical wire or plumbing pipe comes too close to the face of the stud (e.g. if the hole going through the stud weren't centered), you have to install steel safety plates.

For ethernet, you can run it behind the trim or lots of other places without concern.


Removing drywall from concrete ceiling, do I need to worry about something?

The picture you linked, having 40cm of clearance, and being typical of offices sounds like you are describing a 'drop ceiling' (aka 'suspended ceiling') -- this is different than drywall.

A drop ceiling is composed of 2x4' or 2x2' removable panels sitting in a metal grid system, and the panels are usually mineral fiber or fiberglass but can also be wood or plastic.

You absolutely can remove this, but there are of course drawbacks

Acoustics/Soundproofing

It will definitely heavily affect acoustics in the basement. In fact these are also sometimes called 'acoustic tiles' because they do absorb sound. By contrast a concrete ceiling is going to make the room very echoey.

As far as separating noise to the upstairs, I suspect it will not have a huge effect, though it'll definitely be non-zero. Concrete does transmit low frequency sounds, and a soundproofing layer can help to minimize this.

Design

The best way is to lift a tile and inspect the concrete. Does it look decent enough for your tastes? Is it full of holes drilled to hang the ceiling, or does it have wiring or other utilities running across it? If there is any wiring, plumbing, HVAC or gas lines installed by people after (or knowing about) the drop ceiling, they may not have done as neat a job as if it would be exposed.

Replacing with drywall

An actual drywall ceiling can look pretty nice. For reference/comparison, that would be something like this (picture is before painting):

One of the benefits of a drop ceiling is after it's installed, you can still easily run wiring above it -- for example if you want to install a home theater, or upgrade to the next generation video cables, or go to a 7.1 or 9.1 or 24 channel surround system.

Drywall requires cutting holes, patching and repainting -- or having strategically run conduit behind it to exactly the places you need.

Other drop ceiling tiles

There are ways to install low-clearance drop ceilings. The minimal you can get down to is around 2 to 3" (5 to 8cm) -- it just depends on being able to get the tiles in.

You can also replace tiles. There's some neat tiles that definitely don't look like your typical office -- just be aware some may lose some of the acoustic benefits. You can compensate for this by insulating above, but then you need more space.

Painting tiles

Finally, you can just paint the tiles, which is easy and cheap and can vary the look quite a bit.


Why does a cordless circular saw have the blade on the left?

A majority of people are right handed. With the blade to the left you are positioned to comfortably view the cut (for a right handed person).


What is the material leaking out of my plumbing drain stack?

Yes, it's a drain/sewage pipe. What comes out of a sewage pipe??? Sewage!
Get some rubber gloves and a dust respirator and clean that pipe and plug, a wire brush would be a good start. Then remove the plug and clean the threads on both surfaces. Apply some pipe dope to the threads and screw the plug back on to the pipe. Tighten as necessary to stop the leak.
That plug looks like it might be PVC so if the threads are destroyed, you might have to replace it.


What is this radiator vent used for and how is it used?

According to the manufacturer, Heat-Timer Corp. The item pictured is a "Varivalve" air vent.

  "The function of the radiator air vent is to provide a means for air
  to be driven out of the radiator as steam enters. At a given pressure
  the fill time of a radiator varies proportional to its heat capacity
  and inversely proportional to the venting capacity of the radiator air
  vent. It is possible to control the speed at which a radiator will
  fill with steam by installing a radiator air vent with a certain
  venting capacity. Used in this manner, radiator air vents are helpful
  in evening out the heat distribution in a building."

The pin is an adjusting lever that controls how fast the air is released from the radiator which, in turn, affects how fast the radiator fills with steam. By setting the pins correctly you can prevent all the steam (heat) from running to one end of a room or building.

I don't have any first-hand experience with these specific devices, but here's a link to the manufacturer's instructions for the product.


How can I install ceramic tile over vinyl tile?

Is the glue residue hard and rough or soft and gummy? If it's hard, a 6" floor scraper should break it loose, maybe with a heat gun or some boiling water to loosen it a bit. If it's soft and gummy, the scraper should get it by itself, or you can try some acetone or mineral spirits to dissolve it (make sure you ventilate the area well, and take frequent breaks).

Either way, tiling directly over a vinyl floor is not going to be ideal. The thinset will not key well to the smooth vinyl (and trying to rough it up will basically just get you to the point where you might as well scrape it all off anyway). Vinyl floor should NOT be considered a "floating underlayment", either, as a few posts I've seen have indicated. It's too thin, and actually MORE likely to result in cracking as tiles break loose and try to shift.

You really need to get that stuff off. It will not be an easy job, and if he's not paying you for the time he should be.


Refinishing table, Water-Based Polyurethane Dries Fast and Leaves Blush after Sand. What to do?

The blush is precisely because you're sanding. You're taking the nice, smooth, shiny surface and putting millions of tiny scratches into it.
You have identified your own problem: As you indicated a slower application rate allows you to eliminate the bubbles and that eliminates the need to sand, but it's drying to fast for you to work slowly. So, you need to make some changes to your application setting:

Wait for cooler, drier weather.
Work indoors where it's cooler and drier (assuming inside is air conditioned).

Make sure you still have adequate ventilation, but a water based product shouldn't be too bad. Read and follow the instructions on the tin.

Buy a poly that has a slower drying time.

Any one of those 3 should help significantly.
Do not use a power sander, even with 220 or finer grit. A machine is going to take way too much off way too quickly. Unless, of course, you're trying to remove most or all of the coating.
When applying the poly, you should only need to sand if you're planning on adding another coat. The sanding (220 grit or higher, by hand, very lightly) is designed to give a "key" to the existing surface for the new layer to stick to. It has the added benefit of knocking off any bubble or nibs (bits of dust that settled on the wet surface).
Once you're satisfied with the surface you've got, STOP! There should be no need to sand your final coat.


Double gang outlets with more than four outlets

Use a "surface conduit starter box" on top of the 2-gang box.
Something like Legrand Wiremold will suffice.
Then, run surface conduits to any number of new receptacle locations.


How to resolve vertical gap with newly installed double-hung windows

These windows must have been installed into window casements that were built in place or reused from previous windows. The reason I comment about that is that if the windows were new units with the windows themselves pre-hung in the casements it is hard to believe that they would have the misfit that you describe as delivered from the factory.

In any case you would do well to see if you can talk one or two other contractors to come out to look at the installation to see what feedback they would give to you.

Sounds to me like you need to argue the case for a replacement set of new windows. If by chance you have not paid for the job you should withhold such payment until the problem is corrected to your satisfaction. If you have already paid then you have lost a certain amount of leverage but threat of a civil suit may be in order if you do not get a suitable response from the contractor. Of course you have to weigh the cost of getting involved in litigation against the size of investment already made in the windows.


Floor nailer nailing too deep. Am I even using the right tool?

These nailers are made to handle solid wood flooring and thick subfloors.  Your engineered floor is much easier to nail, and you may have a pretty "soft" subfloor as well (not a bad thing, necessarily, just saying that it accepts nails pretty easily).  The max PSI is important because that is the MOST the tool can handle without blowing seals, etc.

Don't pay attention to the minimum.  On nailers, that is a "best guess" for the PSI needed to do a typical job so you can make sure the compressor you have will be enough.  It's not like you will hurt the nailer with low pressure.  A nailer might work down to 10PSI if you are nailing styrofoam (not that you would want to do that).

So, play with the pressure until it's driving the staples the correct depth.  However, when you use a lower pressure like that, any irregularity in the subfloor will lead to a staple that's not driven all the way.  That's fine - just be prepared to manually set a staple every once in a while and don't get frustrated when it happens.  Find the sweet spot on pressure and even adjust it if you get to a section of floor that starts behaving differently.


I have an old house (100 yrs) up off the ground and in the past year the wood floors have began to sag where the boards meet

Most houses built 100 years ago use wooden posts or hollow iron pipes to carry the weight of the main support beam. Over time the columns rust or rot usually at the bottom. Many were not set on footings, but on a large flat rock that was later buried in dirt. Inspect the posts for evidence of rust. Tapping lightly with a screwdriver may produce a difference in tone where the post is thinner. Poking wooden posts with a screwdriver may show evidence of dryrot or insect damage. Any posts that are damaged must be replaced.


HVAC technician can't do ductwork because of zoning limitations?

There are three pieces to this problem here.

What will the permiting authority accept?

If the inspector says he will approve your renovation without upgrading the existing HVAC system or adding a supplemental unit, then make sure you get that in writing. In my county in Florida, anything renovation that adds roof or that changes the conditioned area by more than 100 square feet requires a new heat loss calculation.

What can you get an HVAC contractor to do?

If they won't do what you want to do, then keep shopping. Considering the size of your job, you'll probably get a better response from a smaller company or an individual HVAC contractor. They are more likely to not dismiss a small job.

Are you prepared to do something more if your current system doesn't work out?

  I'm not particularly worried about the system handling the additional load

This could really go either way. If the current space is well insulated and properly ventilated, then that is the most efficient way to keep the room below it insulated. Adding a room above decreases the effectiveness of your HVAC system (more cubic feet to condition) and probably also increases the heat transfer in to your envelope (since you likely can't insulate as well and you're adding more exterior wall square footage to your envelope).

Be prepared to have to do something if your system can't keep up after your renovation. Since you'll have the walls open, etc., make a plan now for how an upgrade or supplemental HVAC might be installed. For example, instead of tying in to an existing vent nearby, maybe run the new vent all the way back to the current air handler. Or pre-plan a route for refrigerant lines and placement for an additional air handler.


As a DIYer how do you test your plumbing when you added pipes to existing plumbing?

Typically a "test tee" is installed at the lowest point possible in the main waste line. Then a test ball, an inflatable heavy duty balloon with a chain attached is inflated to block the pipe at that point. The vent is filled, many times from the roof, but in your case, you may have a place where the water can be added from the inside. I need to mention, the other drains are capped to contain all water to pressurize the whole vent/drain system.
As another mention, there is a test ball that is available that has the screw in plug with the balloon attached to it, so when the balloon is deflated the draining water is all contained in the pipe.


is there a trick to installing "lock and fold" flooring?

I can think of a few possible problems:

The floor wasn't flat to start with.  You typically put down an underlayment of some sort, which will deal with some floor imperfections, but it's not 100% perfect.
Something managed to get under the flooring when you weren't looking.  (those little plastic things yout put against the wall being a prime culprit, but those are pretty obvious when it's happened).
There's something in the grove of flooring.  As part of the manufacturing, a little wood chip might get in the track, which prevents it from seating correctly and locking down.

Odds are, it's #3 -- it doesn't take much.  Inspect the board that you're trying to place, to see if there's any imperfections in the board along the grove, then take a look at the place you're trying to lay it into.  One the last floor I helped installed, we got in the habit of looking at all edges of the board before laying them, and pulling off any bits that were flaking that might cause problems later.  We also found that putting the board in the groove, then running it back and forth a few times would make them more likely to sit down on the first try (I'm not sure if it knocked out debris, or ground it down so it was small enough to not be a problem).


What is the purpose of these attachments on my picture frame?

Those are meant to be used to hang the frame. The notches in the hanging bracket are meant to allow a particular position to be selected over a hanger nail in the wall to allow balancing the picture.


Multiple holes in exterior wall studs for electrical wiring

Looks like a standard install.

You can only run so many wires in a hole without de-rating the circuit capacity.

The holes are set back at least 3/4" from the stud surface, add 1/2" for drywall and you get 1 1/4" the length of the drywall screws.  Even if the drywall screw goes into the same line as the hole it isn't long enough to penetrate the wire.  If the holes were closer than 3/4" from the surface then they need metal plates.

There are guidelines for drilling studs/joists in non bearing/bearing walls/assemblies.  Typically you don't worry about the electrician as their holes are too small and if you do worry you worry about the joists not the studs.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/walls/drilling-holes-notching-and-boring-holes-in-wood-studs/


What is the NEC-compliant way to add a conduit in this configuration?

Type

ENT or "smurf tube" is described in NEC article 362 and seems right for this application. It can be bent by hand unlike EMT and does not require solvent-welding like PVC does.

Size

NM 12-2 is 0.400" in width. Chapter 9 Note 9 says to treat elliptical cables as single conductors with the diameter of the cable's major diameter. So each NM 12-2 is treated as a 0.126 in^2 conductor. Six of them equals 0.754 in^2.

Six NM cables counts as "over 2 wires," so we use 40% fill. For ENT, we consult Chapter 9 Table 4, which says that 40% fill in trade size 1-1/2 is 0.774 in^2, which will (just barely) accommodate six NM 12-2 cables. The next size up is trade size 2, for which 40% fill is 1.282 in^2. If you might pull seven cables, pick the larger size.

Termination

300.15 says "Where the wiring method is conduit...a box or conduit body shall be installed at each...pull point, unless otherwise permitted...." 300.15(C) says "A box or conduit body shall not be required where cables enter or exit from conduit...that is used to provide cable support or protection against physical damage. A fitting shall be provided on the end(s) of the conduit or tubing to protect the cable from abrasion. So the choices are box or bushing.


What's the humidity level in the room? I'd go get a $12 humidity sensor and see what you got. My understanding that mold can grow >= 60% RH, though there are other factors (e.g. moisture will condense on a cold wall with a lower relative humidity). You may need a dehumidifier if you're too high. Of course that won't kill the mold but will keep it from growing.


Some odd wiring in my breaker box. Is this up to code?

Normally neutral and ground are bonded at your main panel, but must not be bonded at any subpanels downstream.  So mixing neutrals and grounds on the same bar is OK in the main panel but not at subpanels.

The 14/3 with black and red on two breakers and white on the neutral bar - that's a multiwire branch circuit with a shared neutral.  When installed properly this is code compliant.  However take particular care when working on and around this circuit, if the neutral is disconnected it can result in an overvoltage on the affected circuits.


How to put Christmas light net on top of very tall tree

9m isn't tremendously tall as trees go. I've worked (a little) with a paint roller extension pole that was about 4.5m long at full extension. If you can rent or buy one or more of these and stand with it on the ladder that'll get you near the top of the tree.
A safer alternative could be scaffolding (rent or buy). Here in the US it is commonly available in units with height about 2m. Two of those would have you standing about 4m above ground; three could have you standing at the same height with safety rails surrounding you to protect against falling. This plus the long paint roller pole could put the top of the tree within your reach -- so long as the tree is relatively columnar in its growth habit and the light netting isn't too heavy to manage on the end of such a long pole/lever.


Should I fill my crawlspace drainage trenches before putting down a moisture barrier?

I think you want to insure good drainage under the plastic sheeting. I don't think it's a good idea to leave the channels to fill or to collapse.

At some point work in the crawl space might be required to repair plumbing and hidden channels under plastic sheeting might cause problems.

Flexible porous plastic drainage pipe in the existing channels might be a better solution than crushed rock. It would be very lightweight and easier to install.

I have seen advertisement for porous rubber block system that claims this system to be superior to "French drains". These blocks would presumably not need filling on top, but might be stiff and hard to get into the crawl space.

Both of the above would probably require the channels to be cleaned out and maybe deepened a little.


When replacing a circuit breaker in the service panel, how can I determine which neutral is associated with the hot wire?

Turn off all loads on the circuits in question.

Turn off the main for this panel. Possibly overcautious, but that's part of what's let me get old.

Either: short the dead circuit, or turn on an incandescent bulb on it (main off, circuit dead, still dead - just the bulb/fixture/lamp turned on.)

Pull neutrals and look for one with low resistance from the hot in question. There should be only one. Unshort the circuit or turn off the lamp and make sure the resistance changes (if nothing else is turned on, should be infinite, but if there are things that are not able to be switched off, may be non-infinite. But you should see a difference when you switch the incandescent lamp off or remove the short - it's a form of verification.

I think you have enough neutrals not to worry too much about this, but: beware of "Multi-Wire-Branch Circuits" where one neutral serves two hots.

As for the wire colors, only white and green (with or without yellow stripe) are reserved (and IIRC, you can retag white to another color, but you can't retag green - and you can't retag anything else to white.) If your wiring is run in conduit, using the full range of available colors makes figuring out (what is connected to) the hot side of circuits much, much easier. Most household wiring is not run in conduit, so it's not often seen at home.


Fan is turning on air conditioner but no air movement

That video sure looks like rotation is backwards [it should be spinning clockwise as seen based on the scroll/label], but... could be strobe effect from camera rate? I can't think of how to switch rotation on an ac motor run by a simple contactor but by rewiring the motor leads - racoons aren't that clever [yet].  If it's fooling us, then look at ductwork: if you have flex duct which had an internal collapse, air flow could be blocked. Another option is your dampers used to balance distribution out of the air handler came loose and the butterfly is closed. If it is in fact running backwards, then does it use some solid state controller [pwm, or other variable speed type drive]?  That would be the culprit.


How can I attach new connections to this old galvanized pipe?

Keep the unions.

If (as seems unlikely, given the over-all condition, despite one differing opinion) you can't get the pipe out of the old union-half, go purchase two new half-unions (or complete unions if you can't source the correct half-unions alone - take the half-union you remove with you to the store to match it) and connect your flex-hose to the half-union. Otherwise just unscrew the pipe from the half-union and screw in the new flex hose, or any adapters you need to connect to the flex-hose.


How do I maintain an 80% efficient natural gas furnace?

Yes, replacing the filter is basically the only maintenance that is necessary for natural gas and propane furnaces. You probably don't need to replace the filter more than once a season. There exists a "filter alarm whistle" that you can install. It whistles when your filter needs replacement. You should make sure that the filter is properly installed, so that air cannot bypass it.

Oil furnaces and boilers, however, do require regular maintenance.

Optionally, you can have the blower and heat exchanger cleaned, but it won't make much difference in terms of performance.

Despite the claims of duct cleaning companies, cleaning your ducts will not make much of a difference in terms of energy performance or indoor air quality (reference). However, if you have an air conditioner, cleaning the indoor evaporator coil can be a good idea.

With a forced-air system, the most important thing is to make sure the ducts are sealed and well insulated if they are located in an unconditioned attic, crawlspace, or basement.


Furnace reaches temp, shuts off but wont come back on

This sounds like a safety lockout occurring on shutdown.  You are probably clearing the lockout each time you go through your procedure.

Look for a failure code to be set on the control board after the furnace stops.  The code should point you in the correct direction.


Page 9 of the specification guide you linked describes Allowable Holes.  If you comply with that specification then you are not considered to have weakened the joist.  If you violate that specification then you would need new sealed engineering prints to stay compliant.

If you just want to increase rigidity or load-bearing capacity there are a number of common practices:

"Sistering" joists: I.e., running an identical joist alongside an existing joist.
Reducing the unsupported span of joists.  E.g., most simply, by adding a load-bearing post under a joist span.
Upgrading joists.  E.g., replacing existing members with joists having higher specified capacities.  Or adding supported joists under the existing ones.

You would need an engineer to quantify the effects of any of these reinforcements.  Some of these are very implementation-specific.  For example, depending on the construction, sistering might provide much more support when the sistered joists are cross-bolted in a particular way.


What are the requirements for supporting non-metallic cable through a finished wall?

You should be fine.  334.30(B)(1) allows you to leave the cable unsupported where it's fished through a finished part of the building.  Which is what you're doing.

334.30(B)(2) removes the requirement to support the cable within 12" of an enclosure, as long as you're within 4 1/2' of the last point of support, you're connecting to a luminaire or other electrical equipment, and the cable and point of connection are within an accessible ceiling in a residential dwelling.


Worst case is that you bust a soldered fitting (very difficult) and have to open the wall up, which you would have had to do to replace a soldered fitting anyway. Since your water is already shutoff, give it a hard turn and see what happens.

Personally, I'd open the wall up even if it's threaded and sealed with pipe dope. Because after you replace the faucet, you want to check for leaks. It's much easier to do a little drywall patching and painting than it is to cleanup the water damage from a slow leak that goes unnoticed for days. You can also make sure the insulation is tight around the pipe so that there isn't a chance it will freeze in the winter.


Remove dirty/sweaty hand prints from painted wall

I usually just use a wet rag or a wet brush and "scrub"


Mortise lock conversion from key to privacy?

I've done that for a bathroom recently. I replaced the locks of several doors entirely with this lock (fit like a charm). For the thumbturn, I purchased this plate and thumbturn kit. It required a bit of 'macgyvering' but it turned out well.

I had to combine the thumbturn provided in that kit with the key provided by the lock. The thumbturn provides a handle, a square 'arm' with a hole in it, and a pin which connects the thumbturn and the 'arm'. Luckily the shaft of the key fits in the hole of the thumbturn; by cutting off the handle of the key (to appropriate length) and drilling a hole in the shaft you essentially swap the 'arm' provided with a functioning key. Photo illustrates the result:

The pin portion of this thumbturn contraption is hidden behind the plate provided with the thumb turn. Result works and looks great.


Are Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels installed after 1986 considered safer?

I do home inspections and I always throw up a red flag and recommend replacement of any and all FPE stab-loc panels manufactured prior to 1984. After a federal investigation that ended in a very shallow "Duh, we don't really know" kind of conclusion.

FPE panels kinda disappeared for awhile.  I'm not sure if they were bought out or retooled, but the newer panels and breakers do have a legit UL listing.  In my opinion (backed with 40 years experience), if yours is pre-1983, replace it. A new GE, ITE, etc. panel is not that expensive and you can sleep easier knowing you don't have a questionable electrical distribution in your home.


Transitioning run of pipe without reducing flow

This is really quite simple, even if vaguely asked.

As @Daniel Griscom accurately stated in the first comment, "Almost certainly no" (so I'm making this a community wiki answer.)

The question asks if reducing the pipe size (at a particular point, but the particular point does not matter) can be done without reducing flow, and the answer is "no" in basically all cases, though there are some cases where "not enough to matter" would come into play as an answer, but the question does not indicate any information leading to think that is a valid response. In the general case, if there is flow in a pipe, and you reduce the size of the pipe, you increase the total dynamic head and reduce the flow. Period.

More information might be helpful if there was a question about "how much would flow be reduced" but that's not the question.


Considering your house was built in 2002, the white fluffy stuff is probably blown in cellulose insulation and I suspect zero danger considering the short, limited exposure. But it does have some chemical content:

  In total, the average paper content of cellulose insulation is around
  75-85%. The rest is made up of fire retardant material like boric
  acid, or ammonium sulphate.

I wouldn't want to work with it long term without some skin protection, but any gloves you're comfortable with that allow you reasonable dexterity are surely satisfactory.

The yellow "sheets" you described are likely fiberglass bats. But as far as I know, the worst case for touching those would be some irritation and itching. Possibly a rash in a worst case scenario, but for that I think you'd have to be allergic.

You're smart to wear a mask. Similarly, a few, limited exposures would most likely result in some irritated breathing for a couple days and pose no long term effects. But breathing in the fiberglass dust is your biggest danger here. Your mask is fine for one-project's worth of exposure. But if I were doing several projects up there or working around attic dust as part of my job I'd upgrade the mask to one of those face-muffler-looking-masks, something like the one pictured below.

My opinion is you'll be okay and don't need to worry. And I suspect 9 out of 10 here would probably agree with that sentiment.


How should I route my Romex and Network cables and can I safely drill another hole through this joist?

Well, your pictures have twigged an occasional issue I run into where I can't see them, (likely not your fault) but flying blind....

From a functional point of view you really don't have to worry about separation. Twisted pair is actually quite good at ignoring noise, and 60 Hz noise is of little note to 100MHz ethernet anyway. You can do it all wrong and it will work, 99% of the time. I don't suggest that you do it all wrong, I do suggest that you don't freak out about it.

From a code (and safety) point of view you should not have low and line voltage going through the same hole, and from a hyper-cautious network standpoint they should be separated by a good 12" when parallel, or cross at 90 degrees if they need to cross. Separation matters a lot more in an industrial environment with noisy devices on the powerlines than in a typical single-family residence.

From a "best practices" point of view, network and power in separate stud bays (when running vertical) or between different sets of joists when running parallel to the joists is certainly a best practice, though not required by code - it maintains separation quite aggressively.

Notches are far worse than "holes in the center third" (top to bottom) of a beam, joist, or header. Holes should not be too close to the ends, even in that center third. I'm not sure there's any need for the cables to go through the header if they can "float by" (remember, I'm flying blind here)

Portable electric heaters are nasty, nasty loads. If you are plugging one into a 15 amp (14 Ga) circuit that, all by itself, with nothing else on, is loading the circuit very near to maximum (if it's a 1500w heater, actually more than is permitted for fixed/hardwired loads that might (as with a heater) be on for more than 3 hours. A warm wire is fully expected under those conditions. A 20 amp (12Ga) circuit would be more appropriate if you are in the habit of using one.


Can I suspend lights within my property boundaries, above my wall heights on my roof deck?

IANACO  (I am not a condo owner)

This seems like something that won't be in the rules because no one thought it important.  Probably no rule about using your deck for landing starship shuttles either.  Same idea.

That said.  Simple courtesy requires that you not disturb the other owners. So...

A:  Wire it up with a 3 way switch with a switch on each neighbor's fence.  This would allow them to turn it off if they have a stargazing party and you forgot to turn the lights off.

B:  Get/Make lamp shades that reflect the light that would otherwise go onto your neighbours place.  Boundary lights have a triangle (actually a parabola shape) that is white on  your side, some innocuous colour on your neighbors side that reflects light back onto your land.  Lights inside the boundary wear a cone to direct the light in a cone that doesn't go over the fence.

Depending on how fractious your condo association is, you may want to ask first.  Sketch out what you propose to do and ask your two neighbours if this is a problem.

As a neighbor I would usually be more concerned about noise than about light.


Make sure all the bills you look at are based on actual meter reads. Some utilities will estimate some of the bills (say, every other bill) based on historical data to avoid having to come check the meter as often. Since you haven't been in the house very long it's possible they're using historical data from last year (maybe the previous residents filled up a pool in the summer, or watered the lawn?).

If that's not the issue, see if you have access to the water meter. If so, write down the reading before you leave the house for the day and then again when you come home.

Also note that a "typical" (whatever that means) person uses about 50 gallons/day, which for you should work out to about 6000 gallons per billing cycle. So these numbers don't seem way out of line.

EDIT: reading over these numbers now I can't help but notice that over your two billing cycles you are averaging 50 gallons/person/day, which is exactly the EPA's "typical" number. I wonder if your first bill was estimated and the second one was high to make up for it.

Also, I think the faucet thing is a red herring. If the faucet was leaking thousands of gallons you would notice it. And there's no way for someone to steal a meaningful amount of water from an outdoor spigot.


Can I pour concrete next to my foundation?

Concrete touching the foundation shouldn't be a problem, but make sure that you aren't constraining any of the services (wires and pipes) shown in the picture, and that you aren't butting up against the siding, potentially entrapping crud and/or insects.


Grounded light switch box with no ground screw/wire

First, is the box actually metal?  If not, forget about it.

Most boxes are tapped for a #10-32 screw for a ground screw because as a matter of convention and industry practice, that is what everyone uses.    I believe the minimum screw size is #6, however -32 is the coarsest allowed thread pitch.   That is because UL standardizes box thicknesses, and this assures enough thread engagement to be effective.   -40 is also allowed.  A sheet metal screw is out of the question.   A self-tapper is ok if it is -32 or finer.

If you do not see a ground screw hole tapped, either the box does not have one (some don't), you're not seeing it because you expect it to be on a dimple and it's flush, or the installer happened to use that hole for a mounting screw/nail.

You are welcome to either use  a ground clip, or drill and tap a 10-32 hole yourself.   Use the correct drill listed with the 10-32 tap.


How do you install a thermostat if you don't have Y or C wires?

You have
* power(R)
* heat (W)
* fan (G)

(note that on some furnaces R and W are reversed).

Standard answer is that either:

you have more wires in the thermostat cable that are not connected behind the thermostat one of which you can use as a C wire
you have some the willingness and ability to pull more cable to pull a c wire
you can get a 24v transformer near the thermostat and wire it to Rc and C, and wire your thermostat to Rh, W, and G.

You won't need to use the Y wire.


Water meter still spinning even after shutting off water to house?

I had a rental house a number of years ago that I bought and when I bought it there was a leak in the pipe between the meter and the house and it wasn't disclosed.
You should have a shutoff valve on the house, if it's functional, turn it off and see if the meter stops. If it doesn't stop you've got a leak between the meter and the house.
I also agree with Harper, fixing toilets is cheap and easy and will save on your water bill.


What is the best way to break concrete under existing framing (2x4) to install plumbing?

You may have to adjust your ideas of what's needed to get this done.
You make sawcuts and drill holes as close as you can to the place you need to open, but it may well not be practical or possible to limit that to the particular room you want to work in, especially since you appear to be planning to run the pipe inside framing with drywall you don't want to disturb on the other side. Welcome to "drywall repair is comparatively easy, and breaking concrete requires a degree of access."
Or you make your hole on the side you plan to access, watch Shawshank Redemption 12 times for inspiration, and delicately hammer and chisel your way under the framing, but no further. By which time you could have ripped the wall apart, bashed the hole open, and repaired the wall 3 times over, but it's your choice.
One approach, depending on exactly what you need to do and what you are willing to rent, is to use a holesaw (for the lumber) followed by a diamond core drill (for the concrete) to make the hole for the pipe, and just cut a hole in the floor on this side of the wall for access, that does not directly connect to the hole for the pipe.


Remove paint and grime from aluminum windows?

If you just want to give them a light cleaning you can use a few pads of 0000 steel wool pads and a little elbow grease then spray with clean water.  If you have aluminum discoloration or mineral deposits you may want to use a chemical such as Aluma-Kleen (which is bio-degradable) or a even a homemade recipe my grandmother use to use was 1 part water to one part vinegar (acid) to clean aluminum. Always rinse with lots of clean water and wipe down dry to prevent further minerals from staining.  Hope this helped.


How do I remove 1 out of 4 light fixtures from a two way switch arrangement?

You pretty much need to run a new cable to that outlet and re-wire the existing cable to bypass that outlet.

inspection of the outlets may reveal the possibility for a different option, but I'm not expecting it to.


Furnace C wire connected to condenser. Can it be used for thermostat?

Yes.  I assume you are trying to replace the regular thermostat with a smart one.


It's "trash".   This is exactly why I don't like flexible air ducts lines and I only use them if I absolutely have to.
Couple of things:

this fell between connections.  Connections should be sealed/taped.   That isn't a good sign.
anything in the way of your line will decrease effeciency.
might just be the picture... but your line looks dirty.   I don't often say that but it needs a cleaning.   This is another reason why flex lines aren't as good.  They are dust collectors.


Smart Thermostat - No C-Wire - No Controller Board

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This is a Heat Pump wiring diagram, if you only have an AC unit then the AC unit outdoors will only require the Yellow and the Common wire as far as the 24 volt control circuits go.
Common is the side of the 24 volt control circuit that every 24 volt circuit returns to, to complete the circuit, this is why it is called Common,  cause every circuit terminates there.
Every 24 volt device has a 24 volt hot leg  and a Common,  the AC unit will have the Yellow 24 volt hot leg of power  and the Common side of the 24 volt control power.

The furnace or air handler has  low voltage terminals R/ red, W/ white, Y/ yellow,
G/ green and C/ common.
The circuit board will have them if no low voltage terminal strip is seen.
Follow the 24 volt wiring to see where the terminals are, the pics you gave show nothing of any use, its hiding the components, google 24 volt hvac transformer, or 40 VA HVAC transformer to see what one looks like.
Red is the 24 volt hot leg of power
White is the Heat circuit
Yellow is the Cool circuit
Green is the Fan on circuit
Common is the side of power every 24 volt circuit terminates upon.
1 of the 24 volt wires going to the AC unit will be Common.


How to seam new stucco to old stucco when patching large areas

My authority is that I've researched and performed this very task in the past. That doesn't make me an expert, merely someone that had to deal with this.

For starters, I'd suggest getting actual stucco mesh/lathe rather than chicken wire. Neither are particularly strong, but stucco mesh is quite a bit heftier than chicken wire and is specifically designed to 'bite' the scratch coat and keep the stucco in place.

It may  be overkill, but I'd also put a few stainless screws in whatever mesh you are using (rather than just staples) as staples would eventually rust.

The screws on the existing stucco...at worst, it won't hurt, and at best is probably a good idea.

All that said, the joint between the new and old will eventually show a crack/seam. Not a whole lot you can do about that. What I did was let the new patch cure for about a year, then came back and filled the seam with masonry caulk, and repainted.


How cold? (20°C, 30°C)
Remember that in winter mains water is colder (5°C vs summer's 15°C) and at night it gets even colder: 2° On average, and with a 8,5 kW you can rise only 3,5L/min at 35°C delta (which is really low flow).  It means a 37°C shower in morning and 40°C in evening.

I think its a too low power appliance: consider switching to instant-gas that allows by-far better performances. Even going for a 10 or 12 kw electric shower won't improve much your situation. Remember: a flow of 1L/Min (starting at 5°C) requires a power of 2,4 kW. And a good shower (at least in my Italian terms) is 10L/min, although 6L/min is still acceptable.

Another electric option is to install a Point-Of-Use immersion that can give you really better performances (for 2-people shower 40L is enough), at least in winter.


Leaking valve connection, recent shower install

I would definitely look at cutting an access into the drywall instead of removing tile. You'd have to remove a lot of tile to get in there and redo that connection. Dry wall is easy to fix. You should frame it in afterwards for access in the future. Just make absolutely sure you know where the water is leaking from. It could be another location and pooling at the point you see it. If the installer has a guarantee, I'd be getting him back there. good luck and stay safe out there.


How should I connect my Lutron Casetas switch with only one hot (black) wire?

Actually, what you called a neutral wire (I assume colored white) is actually the hot coming from the light box (technically, there should be a black stripe of tape or paint near the end, but this is often omitted) and the black is the switched hot going back to the light. This is called a switch loop.
If you had a true neutral in the switch box, it would either be a non-connected white or two whites connected together.
Connect one black from the dimmer to the black wire, the other black from the dimmer to the white and ground to ground.


3-inch recessed lighting junction access

The plastic push-in connectors did the trick.  I won't say it's super simple to get the box in and out of the pan but it definitely eliminated the issue where the wires were getting jammed against the hole by the clamps.


Shower in one bathroom causing moisture in the second

If both fans are venting out the same exhaust port, i would check you have back-draft Dampers (one on each section before the presumed Y connector).

Its possible your first extractor is just blowing the damp air into the second bathroom - a damper should add enough resistance to the flow of air to make the damp air "prefer" exiting via the exhaust port rather than going through the second damper (and in to the second bathroom, causing the damp), without restricting airflow noticeably.


How can I repair damaged plaster when I come to repaint?

Here are some general guidelines. This sort of work needn't be complex.

Loose paint and plaster must be removed. Repairs made over them are likely to fail.
Securely-bonded paint does not need to be removed.
Glossy surfaces should be scuffed or etched, or should have a bonding primer applied before repairs.
If moisture isn't a common problem, standard joint compound (drywall mud) is a fine material for skimming. It's inexpensive, easy to use, and easy to sand.
If moisture occurs regularly, use a cement-based setting type joint compound or powdered plaster repair mix. This cures rather than simply drying and resists moisture damage much better.
Prime all patched areas to seal the surface in preparation for paint. Ideally, prime the entire wall for best uniformity.


It is quite common to have a single white wire being utilized as an always hot feed to a switch. It should, however, be marked with black tape. This is commonly called a switch loop. If you pull out some of these wires, with the breaker off, you'll see that the whit wire from the switch is not bundled in the group of white wires under the red wire nut. Those wires under the red wire nut are your neutrals.


Does a door have to be hung on the edge of the jamb

You can do so.  It will complicate the strike plate mounting, perhaps necessitating a relief arc in the latch jamb. The centered door will only open (at most) 90 degrees before being stopped by the jamb.

Other options may be to reverse hinge side and latch or making the door out swinging.


How far does a basement egress window well need to stick out above ground?

Obviously there may be local restrictions, but on the 4 wells I had installed last year they highest one is about 3" above the surrounding ground level.

I agree - that looks rather awful. I'd definitely ask them to replace it with a better sized well. My guess would be that was the one they brought and they didn't want to deal with having to go get a shorter one from their warehouse.


It would be ideal to know what kind of connections you have on the manifold. Often the connectors can be replaced but it kind of sounds like you don't have that option (or why would you ask?).

So, if you have barb connections, then yes, you have to be careful cleaning them... scratches cause problems. But if there is enough length on the barbed connector for two clamps or rings, that might work. You would want to put the rings adjacent to each other on the pex, and use the crimp tool to crimp them at different angles. Or use a different crimps or clamps like ULTRA-LITE COMPOSITE HANDLE CRIMP TOOL FOR STAINLESS STEEL PEX SLEEVES or Apollo PEX Cinch Clamps.

I suppose that if you had flare nut style fittings, it would be obvious that you could replace the parts, so there's no sense in my mentioning it any further.

Alternatively, if you have a shark-bite style connection, the tube support liner is what usually needs to be replaced. You should be able to remove the support line insert and replace it (depending on the manufacturer). Here's a link for pdf instructions from Shark Bite: http://www.sharkbite.com/sharkbite/wp-content/uploads/SB_Inslltn_Instrctns_2014.pdf

Here's a screen shot image of a google search for generic tube support liners for shark bite style connectors:


Two Circuits down and no Breakers Tripped

Are any of the outlets GFCI? Check the button and lights on all of them and push in the reset switch.


Cleaning your walls won't help; you're only taking away the crud your termites output.

Filling in the holes won't make a difference to the original problem of termites eating away at your structure. This might make things look good, but stuff is rotting away deep inside, and no amount of lipstick can fix that.

Please call an exterminator. That's certainly more expensive than just covering up the damage, but if you want your home to stay structurally sound and livable, you'll need to repair whatever damage has already occurred.

EDIT: Your profile indicates you aren't in a wood-framed house, in which case my answer would probably not apply at all. You'll need to figure out what your termites are after (wood, other food), and remove that attractant. Calling an exterminator may still help.


Gaps between granite countertop and plywood base

You can support overhangs of granite with braces that are 16 - 20" apart and have lips that are unsupported out to 2-3". Fractions of an inch are irrelevant, unless maybe you are driving a truck on it...


That is a rivet. You have to drill rivets out to remove them.


Ceiling fan & lights turn on automatically

It sounds like you have a hot wire that is bypassing the wall switch. Be very careful because you make think you have a dead circuit when you actually have a live one. Make sure you are using a circuit tester before you grab a wire.

You are going to have to determine that you have both the black (hot) and the White (neutral) wires that are actually connected to the light switch. You can do this fairly easily if you have a multi meter. First, make sure you gave opened the circuit breaker and test for voltage at the switch. Once you determine that you have no electricity to the switch disconnect the black and white wire that leads to the çeiling box.  from the switch. Connect these 2 ends together using a wire nut. Then take your multi meter to the ceiling box and set it to measure ohms resistance. Touch one lead to the black wire and the other lead to the White. You should get a reading of almost 0. If you get a reading off scale high then one of those wires does not go directly to the switch.
 - List item

then


For a Job like this I prefer using a sander... like the ones for wood flooring as opposed to the chemicals of stripper. Too much mess with stripper, not only that the stripper will seep between the boards and remove that stain and also get stuck in those places too. Too much clean and prep with stripper - not too mention what I was that stuff off into or on to.


I have a leaky shower. Builder thinks a total renovation to bathroom is needed to waterproof whole bathroom

If there is an access panel below the shower you can look for yourself and see exactly where its comming from. If it is just the drain pipe seal it can be resealed without tearing the whole place up. Did the contractor open up the ceiling below the shower?  I agree a second opinion is needed.


Possible to salvage bowed sandstone slabs for porch steps?

"Itacolumite is a naturally occurring porous, yellow sandstone that is flexible when cut into thin strips." –Wiki

"Most of the known flexible rocks are also fine-grained; in some cases they are said to lose their flexibility after being dried for some time, probably because of the hardening of some interstitial substance, but many specimens kept in a dry atmosphere for years retain this property in a high degree." Can A Rock Bend? –geocaching.com

I think you're on to something with getting it wet, but I've no idea how long it might take to straighten; probably long enough that you'd need new stairs in the interim anyway.

Shore them up as best as possible and use a 20 amp grinder with a diamond wheel to flatten them? Sounds like a lot of work... but sandstone is awfully soft.

Really though, if they're all off by exactly the same amount, then danger is minimal IMO. Grinding them down will ruin their patina, so from an esthetic view point, I'd leave them alone after shoring them. That's assuming that walking up and down them doesn't feel funny, and that they're all true to each other heightwise within 3/8 of an inch at any given point.

I'd prefer you put your efforts into installing railings. Hopefully that's part of your rebuild plan. If you have to move them make sure you have help and that you both choke-up on it so that they don't crack in half under their own weight when you pick them up.


How do I fix a counterweighted accordion blind that is stuck?

This happened to one of our cordless blinds (made by Bali), they were stuck and would not raise or lower. I'm not certain that all types are made the same, but in the Bali blinds at least you can remove the top cover and there are one or more spring tensioned cylinders (for lack of a better term), and the blind cord may be wrapped around one of them incorrectly.

It's not fun, but I had to unspool and respool all of the blind cords until all were wound correctly around their cylinders, which required a surprising amount of force. I'm sure this makes little sense as typed, so here's a youtube video that helped. Your blinds may be a little different if they're from a different manufacturer.

Bali cordless blinds won't go up or down (not my content)


Should I install baseboards before or after laminate flooring?

Baseboards should be installed after laminate.

Most (all?) Laminate is a floating flooring system which means it doesn't actually attach to the subfloor (friction holds it in place once all the pieces are set together.  As a result, it will expand/contract a bit with temperature/humidity changes in the house.  Because of this, you have to leave a small (quarter inch) gap around the outside edge.  The baseboards are then installed to cover the gap.

Also, laminate is very difficult to cut with a saw without at least minor chipping.  So unless you are going to buy a special cutter (looks like a large paper cutter), you are going to want to hide that cut edge.  Luckily, the way laminate is normally installed, the only cut edges are along the walls or transitions so they are covered.


I hate physics, but structural engineering is all about physics.

The concept of “designing” structural walls, roofs, foundations, etc. is really the intersection of material’s substance and the concept of load transfer. That is to say, to design roofs, walls, etc. and their connections, you must understand materials and how they move under stress.

For your project, I’d try to understand “common” framing methods. “Common” because they can be accomplished and “common” because they are at least cost.

You ask if it’s different in U.S. than Europe? Yes, in fact, it’s different in Oregon than in California. Observe and learn where you are located.


How much space do I need between rafter ties?

"...ceiling joists are not supporting the roof in anyway, they are just tying the walls together"

Unless you have a big ridge beam you failed to mention, this is a brilliant piece of misdirection. While superficially correct, what do you suppose would happen if the walls were not tied together? The roof would collapse under it's own weight! No snowload required.

The lateral force exerted on the walls from a low pitch roof is substantial. While it is possible to stabilize the roof with collar ties alone, the end connections become very critical in low pitch applications. You'd be much better off with a high pitch roof in terms of spreading forces from the roof.

If you're going to do a major structural change anyway, I would install a ridge beam along with proper end supports in order to achieve maximum openness from my efforts. Regardless of which approach you select, for any major structural change you should consult with an engineer to ensure everything is done safely. Small details can make a big difference.


How can I repair this washing machine that I think has had the chip wiped?

Just wanted to leave an update, I replace the PCB with another from a completely different model that had AG+.

I thought it wouldn't work at first because I didn't have the Silver Nano extra pcb and for my surprise it did work so if anyone is having the same problems of finding a replacement for their model then find one that is the equivalent of yours and it will work.
I don't know if the same is possible with the dryer versions so only try with those if you have absolutely no other choice.

My washing machine is a Q1044, portugal model - original PCB model is MFS-Q1044-00 - and the PCB that I used for replacement is from the Polish (or russian, I am not quite sure now) model F1245AV - PCB model MFS-1245A-00.

All connections fit perfectly and everything works well, except for the Silver Nano technology which I wouldn't want either way.


How to remove plastic supply line to dishwasher?

I ended up connecting the new dishwasher by cutting the 1/2" PEX supply line downstream of its respective valve, then using a push-fit adapter to transition it to the 3/8" compression inlet of the braided steel supply line that came with the new dishwasher.
For those interested, the configuration shown in the picture I posted uses a Wirsbo AquaPEX system; it is meant for quick installations with no soldering or threaded fittings. A collar is slipped over the end of some PEX tubing, protruding enough to cover the joint between the tubing and the intended fitting (about 1/16"). The collar and tubing are then mechanically expanded using a proprietary tool; once removed from the tool, the widened collar and tubing is connected to the intended fitting and will begin to contract back to the original diameters, creating a compression fit.
The collar can be removed using a utility knife and progressively deeper cuts. I experimented with the end I cut off (i.e. the end connected to the old dishwasher) and found that a heat gun can also be used to temporarily soften the collar and allow me to pry it off the joint; I slipped the collar back over the joint, re-applied the heat gun, and found that it contracted back to its original size and reformed the compression fit.
Thanks to those who took a look and gave this issue some thought. I hope the solution(s) I'm posting can help someone else with a similar issue. Take care, folks.


Romex can't go outside

You would have to use cable rated for outdoor use, such as UF type.

Alternately, while you are in conduit, you could simply use the correct single-conductor wire, i.e. the very common THWN-2.

This is really pushing the limits of 3/4 conduit

3/4 conduit, supporting THWN single conductors, can support four 6 gauge conductors, fullstop.   No more room for anything else.

Couple pieces of good news though.  You only need a 10 gauge ground, and it can and better be bare for space, and you can share the ground with the 20A circuit.   So you need three #6, two #12 and one #10 bare. Someone more code-geeky than I will have to tell you if that's legal in 3/4 conduit, but it's really pushing it.

The trouble with "pushing it" with conduit is it makes the pulls really hard. It can either become a miserable afternoon, or force you to hire an electrician for the pull. And he won't touch it with a 10 foot stick of EMT unless everything you're doing is code perfect.  Because he has to sign off on all of it.

Ease of pulling is a big deal for the DIY'er, and that is why I usually oversize my conduit by quite a bit. Conduit is cheap.

Can't use wires without the cable sheath

They lose their physical protection, and they also lose their markings.  You can't use random unmarked wire.  It loses the weather resistance of UF.  You also can't pull shucked Romex or UF through a conduit, the insulation isn't tough enough to survive the trip. When you see THWN wire this will make sense.

You would be unable to pull 6/3 UF through 3/4" conduit, let alone with another cable too!

Wires through a hole in your house must be protected

There needs to be some sort of appropriate protection, like a conduit or cable which is rated for this use (and remember it needs to be outdoor cable too).

If it were me...

I would use a short non-flexible conduit as a liner, with a junction box on both inside and outside.  The inside junction box would be a fairly large one, the outside could be a simple conduit body.

At the inside junction box, I would transition from Romex (Indoor rated NM) to THWN-2 wires.  Outdoors I'd travel in ahem 1” or 1-1/2" rigid conduit, which looks pro and needs far fewer attachment points to the building. And since I have plenty of space, I'd give each circuit its own ground wire.  That would be me.


How do you disconnect a TV cable that runs all along the walls throughout the house?

The co-ax TV cable in the house is considered "low voltage" and shouldn't pose a hazard to people (unless something is seriously wrong with the wiring, like it touching the mains somewhere).
First, I'd ensure that the cables in the house are disconnected from the cable service line. There should be a grounding block on the side of the house where the house's cable lines connect to the service lines. They may look something like:

Disconnect the "house" side cable from the block, and then cut or tear out whatever cable you'd like. After this disconnection, the line should not be energized at all. As GrecMac commented, it is a good idea to use a non-contact voltage detector to ensure that the cables do not carry a dangerous voltage.


Do I need to run a ground from my main panel to the new sub panel 100' away?

You have to run a separate grounding conductor between the panels. If the second panel is in another building, you need to install a grounding electrode at that building as well. At least that's how it's done in  the US, if you're covered by NEC.


What should I do if the AFCI breaker neutral pigtail is too short?

The AFCI wire needs to connect to the neutral bus. Put it on the other side, or add on to the length of the wire with a wirenut.


Is there a more rugged finish than Polyurethane for a heavy use table?

For starters, I am going to guess you used a water based urethane instead of an oil based product? I have never seen a good oil based product react as you described to simple spills. I have seen some damage caused by very hot items being placed on a urethane finish, but normally, liquids will bead up and not penetrate the finish. Even though the water based urethanes are easier to work with, it take two to three coats to give the same protection as one coat of oil based urethane.

More directly to your question, the hardest finishes you could use as a DIYer would be a good oil urethane or lacquer. Lacquer finishes are common on high end manufactured pieces, but really need to be sprayed on, several coats to make a good protective finish. The end result of a lacquer finish is much like the finish on a car, very hard and durable.  I have built many bars for folks and used 3 to 10 coats of oil based urethane with great results. I have never had a complaint similar to the problem you are experiencing. If I were going to fix your table, i'd probably start from scratch.  Sand it down again, fix any color flaws then apply 4 to 6 thin coats of oil urethane, sanding with 220 or 440 between coats. I personally prefer using a 4 or 6 inch good quality foam brush instead of a bristle brush. Use thin coats, resist the temptation to put on too much at a time. Each coat applied and finished with long complete strokes across the entire table. Be sure to allow proper recoat time as prescribed by the manufacturer. Don't rush it! Not allowing proper dry time will create a "softer" finish as undercoats will not have gassed off enough and not hardened or cured.


How to protect footvalve from sticking open by sediment?

I pump from creeks and ponds throughout the year they make metal cages that go around the foot valve and because they are quite a bit larger they don’t easily plug up with leaves , one I have a rope on that if it plugs up I turn the pump off jerk the rope a couple of times and all the excess falls off the cage, my suction line is 3” but the cage is close to 8” in diameter and probably 4” tall, the cages or strainer last about 10 years even in mud it keeps the foot out of the mud and any grass and leaves out of the foot, maybe 2x per year I have to move it to dislodge the leaves that settle on it some years only 1 move is needed. You could even make one out of galvanized mesh like is used on the top of chimneys, I did that a few years back but it only lasted ~3 years.


Retaining wall on a 2-way slope under an existing block wall

What's behind the wooden fence, your back yard?  Does the slope get even taller back there?  Would you dig out that slope and continue the retaining wall there?  You can reasonably build a retaining wall 3-4 feet high without major engineering but when you get to 6-8 feet high it has to retain much more weight (8x as much according to This Old House) and takes more engineering.  This may be more than you want to get into.

As Alaska man asked, is the tree next to the sidewalk yours, or is it the city's?  What do you plan to do with the brick wall?  It would need to be supported or removed also.  Would removing the tree or brick wall require city permits or an engineering study?  This may also be more trouble than it's worth.

With palm trees and bare dry dirt, I'm guessing you're in a dry area in the south western United States.  I'm in the central U.S., where we have thunderstorms 8-10 months out of the year.  A good thunderstorm or two would wash that loose dirt slope down against the house and risk toppling the brick wall so I would leave the slope as-is and sod it or put in low ground cover to hold the soil in place.  If I used grass I would then have to mow it.  I prefer a smooth slope I can just push a lawn mower up, rather than have to pull out a string trimmer for a few square feet of grass on top of a retaining wall.  For long-term durability and ease of maintenance, I'd recommend just adding sod or ground cover and leave the slope alone.


What is the method to seal a concrete roof?

Concrete itself is not waterproof, in fact, it's more like a sponge, so concrete alone is never used to create an impermeable surface. You haven't provided much info - is the roof flat, sloped? What is already up there?  There are tons of different waterproofing methods available.

Going under the assumption that it was properly waterproofed at some point, you need to figure out why it's leaking.   Maybe there is damage to the roof, or maybe there is a drainage problem and water is just building up and finding its way in. Also possible is that the flashing around a vent or access hole has been bent away and water is getting behind it. Either way, you will first need to investigate and resolve the root problem and then fix it in-line with how it was already constructed.  If the roof is tarred, you are not going to put down some other barrier.

You will without a doubt have to go on the roof to check it out. If you're not comfortable with this, its best to call a roofing expert.


What is the most efficient way to replace a 14" rough-in toilet with a 12" rough-in toilet?

Toilets do not require any stability from a wall or any other surface other than a flat floor to set on. Even if the floor is not, shims can be used to correct that.

The 14" rough in, with a 12" toilet will leave a 2 1/2" to 3" gap at the wall, nothing else

You still can order toilets with a 14" rough in, try a plumbing supply, not the big box stores.

The tank from the 14" toilet may work on a 12" bowl, but toilets are sold with tanks typically together, not separate from their tanks.


How can I cover a wood stove pipe where it passes through the second floor?

Sounds like the flue pipe runs through your room. This pipe should definitely be insulated, not only for comfort, but for safety as well. Insulating the pipe keeps the heat in the pipe, preventing the buildup of creosote, which is a fire hazard.

You will need to wrap that pipe with high-temperature insulation made specifically for that purpose. Do not use anything not specifically rated and designed for insulating metal chimney liners. However, this may not be a DIY job. Combustion appliances and ventilation are serious business. You may want to hire a pro.


An engine hoist with large wheels. If you can't find one pre-made "offroad engine hoist" will provide many design/modification ideas.

An engine hoist with small wheels and planks or plywood laid on the ground to make a hard surface to run on.

Same options as above but an A-frame hoist.

A 3-point hitch crane on a tractor.

A small excavator (rental, one day should do if you are prepared.)

A hitch-mounted crane on a pickup truck.


What size are the correct fittings for 1 1/4" ABS pipe?

They definitely exist (in Canada at least).

Sample "big box" listing for "abs 1 1/4" :

https://www.rona.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/RonaAjaxCatalogSearchView?catalogId=10051&searchKey=RonaEN&urlLangId=-1&content=&langId=-1&keywords=abs+1%22+1%2F4&storeId=10151


How can I block off a doorway with studwork on a brick wall?

Add shim strips on the face of the stud wall that add up to 3cm.  A bit less is usually better, and then you makeup any deficit with mud (joint compound). Since this is a lot of material, you might just place the shims at regular intervals, such that you can screw through them to attach your plasterboard.

I like to glue and pneumatically nail such strips with 18 ga or thinner brads..

On another tack..
What about splitting the stud wall in two, make each 5cm thick, attach the top-bottom and sides to the original frame and leave a 3cm air gap between.


Do you have well water or do you get your water from a public water supply? If it's the latter, then I would certainly contact the water company. If it is the former, there are two main methods of treating for radon in water: granular activated carbon (GAC) and aeration.

I recommend this link for more information...

https://archive.epa.gov/water/archive/web/html/basicinformation-2.html


Here's what I would do.  If you feel industrious, I would remove that entire cavity's worth of drywall so that the entire wall cavity between the studs is exposed.  Then remove all of the batt insulation.  Buy a sheet of XPS or polyisocyanurate foam board insulation, cut it to fit, and install it behind the PEX pipes and the outside wall.  You want the foam board as thick as will fit behind the pipes.  Then finish insulating the cavity with additional foam panels or pieces of batt insulation, but (and this is key here), don't cover the part of the pipes facing the drywall.  You want the pipes to receive some warmth from the room.
A somewhat easier approach would be to wrap the pipes with the thickest foam pipe insulation you can find.  But, similar to the above approach, remove a section of the pipe insulation that faces the room.  You only want to insulate say 3/4 of the pipe against the cold wall, and want the PEX to be heated (through the drywall) by the room.


TV wall mount ripped out, repair help please

Personally, I'd lean toward installing something rigid (wood/plywood/metal) that bridges between the studs and installing the TV on that, so the weight is going to the studs on both sides. Depending on your skill level and what you're placing around it, that could be a simple pair of one-bys painted to match the wall, or a nicely finished piece of plywood with picture-frame trim around the outside edge, or a fancy cabinet with tambour doors or...


How should I prepare a log home for vinyl siding?

Your first question is a bit unclear, but I'd consider installing blocking to bring the wall on plane, then OSB or plywood sheathing. You could have a selection of spacer blocks on hand and pull lines to check the needed thickness at each vertical on 24" centers. I'd probably pull horizontal lines top and bottom, then pull between them as you install the blocks.

Installing just furring strips will leave you with a wavy wall unless you also do the varying-thickness blocking. Sheathing would cost roughly the same anyway and give your siding better support.

You should have housewrap (a drain plane) behind the siding. This is not a vapor barrier and will allow the wall to breathe. Almost no one installs poly sheeting, for example, behind siding.


My new pool pump has a high PSI and bubbles are in the water. How can I repair it?

2 hp is WAY too big for that system. That looks like a 90 sq ft cartridge filter (C-900) which can handle up to 90 GPM when clean but that is extreme. 25-30 PSI is probably not out of the "normal" range for 2 hp. You don't say how many gallons the pool is but that should determine the size of the pump. You get far more efficiency and better filtration with a slower flow. General rule of thumb is smaller pump, larger filter. More power is not good when talking about pool pumps. In addition, it looks like your piping is 1 1/2" PVC. You can only force so much water thru that small of a pipe. Think of trying to blow a mouthful of water thru a soda straw. You will encounter pretty substantial resistance. That's a small version of your pool pump...that resistance, called "head pressure" or "friction loss" converts to PSI at the pressure gauge.

The real solution is to downsize the pump. If you don't want to spend the money since this one is new, you can refit it with a smaller impeller, maybe a 1 hp impeller. For a Super Pump (with the square lid) that would be SPX2607C. If it's a round lid, then it's a Super II and would call for an SPX3007C.

PS Air in the system generally lowers pressure, not raises it.


Any code points, other references on using compression and set screw fittings on same EMT run?

NEC 110.2 you have to use [UL] approved equipment.
NEC 110.3(B) you must use equipment according to its labeling and instructions.
Any EMT couplings from competent suppliers comply with 110.2, and using them for their (one) obvious purpose satisfies 110.3(B).
Both are listed for the task, it's no worse than using different brands.


A breaker box is a perfectly legitimate junction box.
Assuming (since you mentioned moving the cable to the breaker) that you have adequate slack in the cables to move them to the breaker box:
So (if the breaker is not listed for two wires - varies with many details, I know the SquareD QO ones I have are, for copper wires of limited gauge range) just put a pigtail on the breaker and wirenut it to the two hot wires from the two cables you want to relocate, and either do the same from the neutral bar (Only ONE wire per hole on the Neutral bar, though) and wirenut to the neutrals on the cables you are relocating, or use two holes on the neutral bar if you have room to do each of the neutrals you are relocating.
Likewise, connect the grounds to the ground bar (which might or might not be the same as the neutral bar, depending if it's a main panel or a sub-panel) and which might be listed for more than one ground wire per hole (check the box label for that information, and the required torque value for the ground and neutral bar screws. Breaker torque value my also be noted, or you may have to look on the breaker itself for that number.)
Use a torque screwdriver (or low-value inch-pound torque wrench) to make the connections properly.


Is cable marked 14CU 2 CDRS NMD90 two wire or three wire?

The most common type of cable used in houses is technically known as NMD 90 (Non-Metallic Dry service cable rated at maximum of 90 degrees Celsius). It is usually a plastic white covered cable. This cable comes with two or more conductors and includes a ground wire (bare wire).
Your cable has 2 conductors and a ground.


I had tried cleaning out the jets at the top of the rim previously, but it hadn't occurred to me to try to clean out the inlet at the bottom of the toilet bowl. It was nearly sealed shut. About 15 minutes of digging at it with a few screwdrivers of different sizes and I have it nice and clear and back to original excellent flushing quality.


What are these valves downstream of my water heater?

Answer to Question asked originally

That appears to be unused piping that goes nowhere now.  The valves were shutoffs for whatever was that direction. The pipes appear to be capped now, meaning the valves have no function now.

Answer to question as Edited

These pipes and valves still have no purpose.  Take the picture you posted to your maintenance people that told you to turn the valves and ask for clarification.  FWIW, the valves as shown are turned off.

Additional Guessing and Theories

If your AC uses water it's likely an Evaporative Cooler (sometimes called a Swamp Cooler--typically found in dry/arid climates).  In that case, the AC would take a supply line to fill, but not a return line.  If in fact turning a valve on solved your problem it was a different valve and not either of the two shown.

It's also possible that your AC unit's supply water supply isn't your water. It's only a guess, but maybe your neighbor (you said apartment) got similar advice to turn on a valve and their valve feeds both units.

In any case my advise above still stands, show the maintenance man the picture you've shown us and ask for clarification about WHICH valve is associated with the air conditioning.


How can I seal 8 inch round holes in my siding?

I would procure a sheet of aluminum or steel (available at home improvement and hardware stores), fold a suitable hem at the bottom, and slide it up behind both courses of siding (above and below the holes). Friction will probably keep it in place for the short term, but you could dab some silicone behind to lock it in.

|  |<-- upper siding course
|  |  __
|  |||  |
|__|||  |<-- lower siding course
    ||  |
    ||x |
    ||x | <-- hole location
    ||x |
    ||  |
    ||__||
    |____|<-- hemmed sheet

If you fit this well and paint it it could actually be a finished repair. Insulate behind first. Keep in mind that the top edge of the sheet will be exposed in the siding gap above, so you might seal that with caulk or lap another sheet all the way up to and behind the course above.


In looking closer at the window it appears the posts that engage the spring supports are keyed and when you rotate the window back in place the spring support is unlocked.  Of course on my windows the locks are going bad...


How can/should I remove paint from my overhangs?

you have a couple of options:

1) sand it down, depending on how sound the paint is you could just sand down and then prime again before painting, however the paint applied to these patches may come off with the underlying paint in the future

2) best option for me is get some eco paint stripper gel, paint it on the paint patches generously and then attach some cling (PVC food wrap) film secured with drawing pins. The cling film will initially hold on to the gel quite well, but as the gel penetrates the paint it will fall off, hence the drawing pins. Leave it 24h and it should scrape off quite readily


How to install LED strip where before I had a fluorescent tube?

There are LED tubes marketed as physical replacements for fluorescent tubes. (I was recently pricing ones in the T8 size). However, the ones I have seen require rewiring the fixture.


Installed new LED transformer with spring terminal, light won't turn on

I wonder if I didn't properly secure the cable. This is what the hole look like. There's no tiny screw that squeeze the cable. I thought screwing the one big screw at the corner is enough?

These are spring terminals. The wire is squeezed tight in place by the force of a spring. They're very reliable if used properly... there is no screw to get loose.

First, prepare your wire, check the manual for how much to strip, and if it is flexible wire, make sure to turn the strands between your fingers to make it nice and tight, like this random pic from the net. There should be no loose strands...

Use a small screwdriver blade to gently push down the tiny pushbutton on the terminals:

Don't push it sideways or it might break! Pushing it down releases the spring, and you can stick the wire into the hole, then release the pushbutton. Pull on the wire, it should not come out.

If you want to take the wire out, push the button and pull the wire.

If you use solid core wire then you don't need to push the button to stick the wire in. Solid core will find its way in.


plastic sheeting under monolithic concrete slab

Whatever's convenient, really. Tack it to wooden forms with staples and trim it below the form top edge. Drape it and trim it as you fill the forms. Or do as you suggest, though that might make finishing the concrete more challenging.


Years ago, my wife and I moved into a condo that had a faint weird smell. I put charcoal into a net  bag like the ones potatoes come in, and set it into the cold air return ducting at the furnace. I then set the fan to run continuously. We also put the same netted bags in some of the other rooms. After a few weeks the smells were gone. The charcoal absorbed the odors. We built our present house 20 years ago. My wife has a very sensitive nose and detects every odor. I had the furnace guy install a special filter rack where I insert a charcoal filter into this rack ahead of the normal air filter. This charcoal filter takes out almost every conceivable odor that is in the air. Of course, I have run my furnace fan 24/7 for 20 years and counting.  I buy mine at Home Depot or Lowes. They have a plastic frame that can be cut to size to fit the filter rack. No odors in my house (happy wife- happy life). This worked for me.


How can I avoid bubbles when applying an enormous sticker to plywood?

There are a number of methods to apply large decals and stickers to surfaces while avoiding bubbles and wrinkles.

Most professionals prefer a wet method.  Clean the surface first. Then coat the surface, or the adhesive side of the sticker, or both, with slightly soapy water. Then lay it down slowly and use a squeegee while laying it down.  The soapy water enables you to lift it back up a little if you introduce a bubble or wrinkle.  The squeegee squeezes the soapy water out from under it.

A number of videos show the process, search for "decal wet method" or "vinyl wet application" for some.  I think http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSVk0C_NLpc is probably most applicable to your specific usage.

Also, ask the shop you're buying the decal from for their suggestions.

Note that unless you've purchased high quality plywood, and spent some time sanding, sealing, and filling, it's probably not going to be a very smooth surface anyway, and a high quality vinyl decal will look pretty lumpy on it.  Consider getting a better surface, or seeing if you can have a matte vinyl decal made, which reduces the glossy reflections which will show surface defects very clearly.


Do junction boxes have to be 12 inches above a dock's deck if the datum plane is below it?

Can't junctions be under the deck?

No, they can't.

You have to satisfy both conditions:

2' above highest high tide

and

12" above deck


Alternatives to forced hot air unit heaters?

When was the last time you cleaned the heaters? Cadet recommends once every 6 months, which I feel is overkill in most cases, but I bet this is something you've never actually done. This should fix the smell at least.

http://cadetheat.com/blog/clean-electric-wall-heater/


Is this a brass or copper elbow pipe under the sink?

It is Brass.

You will probable not find that elbow at an all-round home improvement center, you will need to go to a dedicated plumbing supply house. ( take the elbow with you to insure you get a match ).

The "tightening sleeve rings" are called slip joint nuts, it  is likely that yours are still fine and reusable.

Because  the top of your  elbow is connected to the drain basket it is acting like a tail piece. A tail piece to basket connection is not a slip joint, it uses a flat washer instead of a slip joint washer but it does use the same nut. For this reason it may be difficult to find the correct elbow.

If you do decide to replace it all with plastic you will need to know what the interface is with the Sanitary tee in the wall. It appears to be a threaded connection and a plastic set up would have a slip joint connection, even if it is threaded you should still be able to slip the 1 1/2 plastic pipe into it but investigate it before buying parts.

Also you will want a  dishwasher branch tail piece . It appears you do not have an air gap for your dishwasher but it is best to have one, it may be code in your area, if not put in a high loop.( explained in this stack question )


If you go straight through the 2x2 into the thin board, you'll only have a few threads in the board and it won't be very strong.  If you use a good wood glue as well, it will be much stronger.

This isn't something people pay much attention to in most cases, but a real wood screw is tapered - the shaft isn't uniform in diameter.  Likewise there are tapered bits meant to drill pilot holes for wood screws.  This will give you a little more strength.  Tapered screws aren't hard to find, the tapered bit may be.

An alternative to consider - a pocket hole set.  The Kreg brand is most popular.  They sell a special drill bit, jig, and screws that work together to make a stronger joint.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c1/joining/

I believe they had a starter kit available at the big box stores that wasn't too expensive.


There is no way to replace this from the top.   You have to access it from the side/bottom.  The tub will be glued/screwed in somehow and there will be no way to lift it.  Furthermore, the faucet is most likely soldered into place on rigid copper pipes.  These do not have flexible hoses like a regular bathroom sink faucet.

If there is something wrong with the faucet and it needs repair, feel free to ask another question about that.  Also, you may be able to get a new trim kit for the faucet to make it look newer without replacing the valves.


What should be done with dirt from digging out sewer drain pipe?

EPA discussion of waste treatment with lime
One common sanitizer for sewage is lime.  A farm supply would have it.  You must layer the dirt and the lime, a 1:10 ratio (1 inch of lime to 10" of dirt)

Care must be used against touching or breathing the lime directly.  Hydrating and mixing each layer (or lift) will ensure the dispersal and neutralizing the bacteria (and smell).

Historically used in pit toilets and at disaster scenes for mass burials.


I have an oil burning furnace and my hot water only last 2 minutes. Hard to take a shower

From what you say, the general answer is clear: the plumber did something that impaired your hot water. I'm assuming your hot water tank is far larger than 2 minutes of shower would require (let's guess you're using 75% hot water and 2 gallons/minute; that's 2 * 2 * 0.75 = about 3 gallons of hot water in your 2-minute shower).

If we also assume the plumber wasn't messing with the furnace and hot water system, other than to just connect to the hot and cold, I'll guess that he somehow cross-connected the hot and cold lines.

To test this, start the shower and wait until the water temperature falls. Then go down to the hot water tank and check if the water coming out of it is hot (I'm guessing it will be). If the water is still hot, then it isn't a production problem but a transportation problem: somehow the hot water isn't reaching your shower.

You can then follow the hot water pipes and see if you can find a 3-way junction where the temperature suddenly falls. If you find a place where the hot water source pipe meets a cold pipe and a warm pipe, then I'll guess again that the warm pipe is going to your shower, and the cold pipe is pulling in cold water that's diluting the hot water.

No matter what, if the presence of the plumber coincided with the problem, and it hasn't been months or years, call that plumber and tell him to fix it on his dime.


the thin cap in front of the gold knob should thread off counter clockwise...this could be very difficult to remove ...use thin rubber gloves for better grip....elastics on the cap too will help … if that fails you can get a strap wrench at plumbing supplies store.


How do I fix a condensate drain line that froze in my split electric system with heat pump?

Your inside coil should have two outlets to drain condensate, one running outside and the other with a float switch to shut down the unit if the outside drains clogs. You can unscrew that float unit and put a bucket there to drain the condensate until the line thaws.

You should also figure out how to correct your condensate line so that it can not freeze. In climates where freezing of the condensate line is possible, you have to run it so that you maintain an air lock on the line (with a p-trap), but also do not expose the water creating the air lock to freezing temperatures. like this:

Notice that, starting at the a/c unit, the condensate line has in this order:

an air gap, which is basically just a t-joint with a short piece of vertical pipe, left uncapped and open to the airspace shared by the air handler or the conditioned space. It should be a couple inches taller than the condensate collection pan, otherwise the condensate will flow out of this tube and never trigger your shutdown float switch, if you have one. The air gap prevents the p-trap from being sucked or blown dry by the air handler.
a p-trap to prevent your conditioned air from being blown out the condensate line, or from sucking in fumes from outside. It also keeps critters out.
a continuous down-sloped condensate line.

All of this needs to be laid out so that everything from the air handler through where the condensate line starts its downward slope will not freeze. Since the line is sloped down, it will drain, even in cold weather. It's also important to minimize the amount of line exposed to freezing weather in order to prevent the water from freezing in cold section of the line.

Also, in emergency heat mode, you may not be able to generate enough heat to keep the house comfortable. It used to be that the emergency heat coils had to be large enough to heat the house by themselves. Since heat pumps have been on the market for quite a while and their reliability and availability has improved, that is no longer the case.


Can I cover/wrap 6x6 post with plastic to protect them from rain during construction?

If they are treated, they are probably okay. However, I have any easy fix; we had some 6x6 doug fir posts that were going to be out for a while, and we just put some 5 gallon buckets upside down on them. That keeps the end-grain dry - which is where it will absorb the most moisture - without sealing the end totally. Worked great.


What can I do about high pressure water noise?

Your water pressure is very high - nearly double the average pressure.

The solution is very simple - install a pressure-reducing valve in the water main just after the meter and main shutoff valve. The valves are in the $100-$200 range from any commercial plumbing supplier (Home Depot probably doesn't have them).

However, this involves modifying the house utilities and is therefore definitely in the owner's domain. Both you and the neighbor will likely have to approach him together, unless you can do the job yourself without anyone noticing.


Outlets still have power but fuse is unscrewed?

A low impedance solenoid style or lamp style tester is the best tester for this type of troubleshooting.  If the circuit can't power a solenoid than you are dealing with an induced voltage.

Good luck!


Installing treads and risers to existing stair runs

The stair treads are set to a base material, if you are lucky it is not glued down. Just pull them off and removed the nails or screws that are left over.

You will most likely need to do something with the base material as well. The thickness of the new material most likely will be thicker than the cap material you remove, making the first tread from the lower level as much as 1/2" different than the rest, creating a trip hazard. This will occur at the top too.

Code allows a difference of 3/8" total from the largest to the smallest tread.

A picture would really help detail the answer better...


Building a deck... Sanity check on Menards deck builder

The deck builder is myself (well, DIY... but engineer with access to CAD - if that makes it better or worse...) I was just copying something that menards had in their "deck designer" program, trying to simplify things a hair.      Here is how I fixed things - rotate the joists 45 degrees.
It makes the joists on the south end of the drawing a bit trickier as far as cuts go - (moreso on the other side of the pool where the angles are shallower), but here is what I have.  I was able to fit things with a 2' cantelevir while still keeping my holes at least a foot away from the pool.  It does make for a tricky 65ish degree cut, for the rim joist, though...


My standard "must get this look" finishing advice - prepare several scrap pieces exactly as you have prepared the primed wood, and test the entire finish process on them. Practice makes perfect, and practicing on the final object makes a mess out of it.

My gut guess (and it's a guess, not experience in creating your precise finish) depending on exactly what sort of black aluminum finish appearance you seek would be to undercoat with aluminum paint or light gray primer, and then spray with "transparent black" (or paint with a clear finish with a compatible black dye mixed in.) If trying to match a brushed aluminum look, some texturing of the base coat might help. Steel wool or non-woven abrasive pad after the finish has hardened might help get the surface/shine right.


How to test an electrical switch to ensure the power is off

You did this while the switch was still in the box, didn't you.

What you didn't know was that the box itself, and thus the metal mounting frame of the switch, us connected to safety ground, and bumping against that while touching hot created a short circuit.

One solution is to use an insulated probe, so it can't make that accidental second connection. Another is to use a non contact voltage sensor, which can pick up house current near its tip without needing any exposed metal; thats what I would recommend for most beginners.


What is the name of a roof section between converging valleys?

tl;dr: It probably doesn't have a formal name because it's not special.
You rectify the problem of a horizontal valley by making it into two non-horizontal (sloped) valleys. You accomplish this by raising one end of the valley, which has the effect of widening the valley floor and sloping it. This, in turn, results in two valleys.
Call it a diverter if you like, but it really doesn't divert anything--the water ends up at the same place it would have, more or less. It's just another roof plane, really, equivalent to any other roof plane. It just happens to have converging valleys flanking it.
The same situation occurs between two dormers, for example:

Image source