Can I add insulation to exterior home walls without redoing all the drywall?

There are companies that will drill 2" holes at two or three places in each stud cavity. You're left to repair the drywall if it's done from the inside. It can also be done from outside, through the wall sheathing, if you're replacing siding. In this case, patches aren't really needed. House wrap covers the holes.

I don't know of anywhere that rents the equipment for that. The insulation medium is often beaded polystyrene, but it could be fiberglass. It's fairly specialized. You'd have to check around your area.


How can I achieve a Quartz look using concrete for a bar top?

It's called terazzo:

The basic process is:

add your 'sparkle' substance as aggregate (glass is a typical option)
pour concrete
after concrete sets, you use a diamond grinder to expose the top layer of aggregate


How should I wire a ceiling fan when there's only three wires in the box?

Someone took a dangerous and illegal shortcut to separating the fan and light switches. Rather than running a second hot, they're using the white as a hot and the ground conductor as the neutral. You should rectify the situation immediately by returning the white wire to service as a proper neutral. We can help further if you describe or post a photo of the switch wiring.

Your final comment about having no neutral in the house makes sense if you're confusing neutral and ground. Older homes commonly have ungrounded branch circuits. At the switch, you probably have blacks and whites, but no bare grounds. My guess is that the ceiling light box was added after the house was built using contemporary 14/2 with ground. Since the ground didn't have a function, it was converted to be used as a neutral for a split switch scenario.


Does the listed gauge on a crimp cap take into account that two wires would go in the same end?

Comment converted to answer

A 16/14 cap should take between 1 and 4 #16 wires, but it depends on the cap. Specific information should be available on the packaging, or from the manufacturer.


Shut off valve turned on - no water flow

First of all, make sure the valves below the sink are really turned on all the way. Sometimes they get stuck.

Second of all, check to see if the tip of your faucet (the part where the water normally shoots out) has a fitting that you can unscrew. Many faucets have a little mesh piece here that can get clogged. It's possible that's your problem (although if you are not seeing even any dripping, I doubt this is the issue, because it's hard to imagine the mesh piece becoming so blocked suddenly that no water comes through at all).

If you're confident that the valves are on and the faucet head is clear, then it's likely you have a blockage somewhere between the valves and the faucet. If neither hot nor cold water comes, then the blockage is probably in the faucet hardware itself, rather than in the hoses that connect the valves to the faucet. (If the hot or cold hose were blocked, then the other water should still work.)

I'd turn the valves back off, then disconnect your faucet hoses. At that point, turn each of the valves on quickly just to make sure that water comes out of both of them (if it doesn't, then there is an issue with the valves, not the faucet). Next, remove the faucet from your sink (you might have to loosen a nut or two underneath the sink to do this) and see if you can see what is blocking water from passing through it.

Depending on what kind of faucet it is, you might be able to disassemble it into smaller pieces, which would probably help to find the problem. Or it might be a single piece.

If you can't see any blockage, you could try flushing water backwards (i.e., pump water in from the part of the faucet where water normally comes out) through the faucet using e.g., a garden hose, in the hope that that dislodges whatever is the problem.

If all else fails, replace the faucet.


It seems from my own research that the local variant is a type F plug in which those two clips do act as the grounding connections. It is equivalently safe to the UK variant.


Can I run a natural gas dryer from a portable propane tank?

If your dryer is set up for natural gas, then it isn't going to run on propane - you'll need to install a propane conversion kit.  Most manufacturers sell these for specific models, and I'm sure there are some generic after-market kits out there too. These generally aren't that difficult to install - you'll basically be changing the limit in the pressure regulator and the size of the orifice to the burner.


Can I use multiple wire nut splices on a single wire in a wall can?

The wires have to come 6" beyond the cable clamp.  If you can't get 2 hands into the box, the wires must also come >=3" beyond the surface of the wall or ceiling.   If they're too short you'll have to pull more length in from the wall, or replace the entire cable run.

As long as that is true, you can extend a wire using competently executed wire nut splices.  Competent means it handles a pull-test with no problem, and does not require tape to hold together.


Trying to hook up 2 new lights and 1 outlet

What you've probably done is wire the white and black on either side of the switch, like this:

And when you close the switch, you're creating a short.

What you need to do is wire both blacks to the switch, using the switch to interrupt power to the lights, and wire nut the whites together, creating an always on return path:


From factory the J-Bolt Gate hinge is too large, the gate will sag -how do I fix it?

If you just hung the gate on one set of these it would be a problem. Also if you just used one bolt to hold the strap to the gate it would be a problem.

With that said if you build your gate as a rectangular element with proper cross brace so that the gate itself keeps its shape and then mount the straps to the gate with two bolts each you will not see gate sag due to the larger size hole in the strap versus the size of the post on the L-bolt.


If it is only the mixer tap that causes the issue then fit it close to that.

It is not surprising as those short action lever taps shut off the flow quicker than the taps requiring a turn or two to stop the flow.

If two taps cause this then either you need two arrestors or one where their supply pipes combine. The only issue with this is that any length of pipe between the tap and the arrestor is subject to the pressure pulse that causes water hammer and, if it is weak, it could fail.

Had a situation where a large valve (6" pipe valve) could cause water hammer if it was shut too rapidly (supply to a water turbine) but the surge protection could not be close to that valve - it had to be 60 yards before the valve... So that pipe had to be stronger just in case.  The surge protection was a vertical pipe of 32 feet, which would provide a big shower if the valve was shut too rapidly.


Unsure how to hang awning on garage, nor what bolts to use

The middle photo will be best with a spacer underneath. Since the top screw is doing the lions share of supporting the awning then the spacer is really just keeping the bracket solid and not holding as much weight but use a screw that will get through the shingles and into the sheathing.

Pre drill pilot holes and insert an outdoor rated caulking into each hole to keep water out.

Use ledger bolts meant for deck ledger board in place of the anchors.

Make sure the white trim board is fastened into structure/studs.


What about an attic vent fan such as this one?

It has a thermostatic control.

Separate shutters are also available such as these.  They open based on the air pressure generated by the fan.

You would need to create "in" vents, preferably placed low on several walls to allow full air flow. These could be either fixed or shuttered, depending on whether you are concerned about infiltration of air in colder weather.


How to properly terminate dish washer / garbage disposal?

I recently remodeled my kitchen, and the original wiring was just two romex's coming out of the wall and hardwired to the dishwasher and disposal respectively.   There are wiring enclosures on each appliance.  Evidently that was acceptable in times past.

I'm sure our more knowledgeable contributors will come by and cite the current code.

I decided to go with installing a wall box for each circuit, and installing a single 20A receptacle for each (assuming they are 20A 12g circuits).  This allows you to simply and definitively disconnect either when doing any servicing.  It's simple, safe, and straight forward.

You can get an appliance plug that wires into the disposal at the store.  My Bosch diswasher came with a power cord that terminated in a supplied plastic surface mount box.  I put that under the sink and connected an appliance rated cord and plug to it.


outdoor heater wiring wire and circuit breaker

To just answer your question, You will need #12 AWG wire which is good for 20 Amps and a 20 Amp breaker.
If you add more information about the location and the heater, we might be able to help out with the installation.


Should there be continuity between brush contacts on an AC motor rotor?

The two tests you do on that type of motor are "180 degrees" and "bar to bar".  You have to measure the two pads that are 180 degrees apart.  Measure each pair of pads around the motor and see if any of the measurements are a lot different than the others.  It doesn't matter what the measurement is, it should just be consistent.

The bar-to-bar test is the same.  You measure two adjacent bars all the way around the motor to see if any of the measurements are a lot different than the others.

All of the bars having continuity with each other is not an issue, but a third test you can do is to make sure that none of the pads/bars has continuity with the outside of the armature (the larger diameter portion in the middle of your picture).


I replaced a surge arrestor for our home -- did I miss anything?

From what I can see it looks like a direct buss connection these usually require a circuit breaker because when they fail it is a direct short to ground. It looks like you have unused double pole breakers that the device could be wired to that would be be better but usually they are rated 20-30 amps but not at the same as the main feeding the panel.


How to make Handrail Transitions with Rotation?

Typically it is done with a miter cut to get to level, or up easement, then a 45 degree level turn , then another miter cut to resume the angle or over easement, this will get the job done. You can do it with all on-site miters, or you can purchase "fixtures"... parts that are "pre-bent" to make smooth turns. Where I have "up easements" or "level turns" or "over easements" is the names applied to these fixtures I referred too.
I would suggest using glue and "biscuits" to join these parts together, since they will be small enough so there will be no strength in just using screws alone.


Is oil-based house paint a health concern?

The type of enamel paint being used will be the key. Using an enamel with no VOCs (volatile organic compounds) is what you want to eliminate the health concerns. There are latex enamels that are washable and will provide the finish you want without the possible health concerns from outgassing VOCs.


What finish can I put on my pallet floor to fill cracks?

If you built a floor out of pallet boards I would expect that the floor would be uneven, have cracks between boards and rough surfaces. That style is pretty much what you get with this type of material!!

There is not much that you could do with it except to rip it out and go with something more conventional. You may be able to cover it with a floor leveling material if all the pallet boards are solidly nailed in but then you are still looking at having to install some new floor surface over that.


Why am I reading non-standard voltages on my house wiring?

It sounds like a floating neutral. The primary and secondary of most transformers are isolated, and unless there is some specific reason that it needs to be isolated the installer needs to make this connection. I would consult the wiring diagram, it typically would show that the secondary wiring should be connected to ground and where it should be connected.


Since it appears that the flooring will be going down in the summer months when the humidity is at its highest levels, will be the best time to install since the floor will shrink from there when the heating season starts.

You will need no expansion gaps in the run of the floor. The only gap needed will be at the perimeter of all walls, about a 1/2" will suffice. If your base is a standard base that is close to  1/2", and you wish to eliminate the use of shoe mold, you can cut the drywall up enough for the floor to run under the drywall in case it needs to expand. This way you can create a 3/4" gap at the perimeter if you choose, and the base will still cover the remaining gap.

Since you will be installing floor over such a long run, I would suggest starting the floor along the wall that is at the kitchen, and go into the living room and that portion of the dining room from that starting point. Use a "joining strip" to start the flooring the other direction to finish the dining room and to proceed into the hallway, and the bedrooms beyond.The reason why is when installing a nail down floor, when striking the nailer, it will usually be struck harder on one side of the room than the other. This will cause the floor to "steer" either to the left or right depending which side you favor while nailing. This will really be exacerbated when gong down a narrow hallway, so starting the way I suggest will minimize the steering issue, at least for the living room/dining room. Let me clarify the steering term I use. When nailing, the wood compresses minutely when the nails or staples are driven into the flooring. That compression, albeit the least little bit, will allow one side of the flooring run you are laying down to be shorter on one side of the room compared to the other. It doesn't appear to be a big deal until you get to a wall you are finishing against, then you will be forced to rip tapered pieces of flooring to finish the room.

With all that said, to answer your 2 questions, no "washer row" will be needed if you let your flooring acclimate to the same MC (moisture content) as the subfloor. This is a critical step to adhere too. If the flooring is dry, say about 4-6% MC and the subfloor is higher, say about 11-12% and you lay it down, the subfloor will raise the MC of the flooring rapidly and force the floor start going into the expansion gap you created at the walls. Not terrible, but not good either. There is a potential for squeaky floors though. If it is the other way around, then the flooring will shrink and again squeaky floors possibly. I have seen floors that did not acclimate properly and had 1/16" to 1/8" gaps over most of the flooring which was 2 1/4" plain sawn white oak, not prefinished.

Most professional floor installers usually accept the MC to be with 2% of each other. For what it worth, most interiors are at about 8%+/- with out humidification during the summer. During the winter, it can be as low as 2%, a lot more difficult to get the flooring acclimated in a short time. If your floor is delivered at 6% MC, still let it set for a week, preferably out of the boxes so the air can go freely around it.


Can I convert a fused dryer outlet to two 20 amp circuits?

That's just a disconnect

That's not an old fuse-era fuse box.  That's a perfectly modern shutoff switch/disconnect.

That guarantees it is fed from somewhere else.  Somewhere else, there will be a service panel of some kind.  The vast majority of service panels generally are circuit-breaker panels, (with equal chance of being modern, old or ancient). So there's good chance of it being a circuit breaker.

The breaker and fuses do the same thing, so their protection is redundant.  Actually the fuses are worse because they are not common trip, which is helpful for 120/240V appliances like dryers and ranges.

You can then change the breaker to 20A, and completely ignore the fuses. This application doesn't require the fuses, and many don't, but many do require a disconnect switch.  Could be the installer grabbed the first disconnect switch he found, or got bad advice, or the cheapest one happened to have fuses.

So go find the actual service panel/breaker that feeds this location.

GFCIs don't do overcurrent

Imagine you take $9000US of cash through TSA security at LAX.  TSA will not warn you that it will be confiscated in Toronto, it isn't TSA's job to screen for that.

It sounds like you are thinking GFCI receptacles will trip instead of the fuse.  Just for the record, they are looking at totally different things. The GFCI will cheerfully flow 50A or more as long as hot and neutral current are equal.  It will not trip for overcurrent, not even a little, that is not what GFCIs do.

The GFCI will trip for as little as 0.008 amps of imbalance current, and the fuse won't care about that at all.

However, if the advice above works out for you, there will be a 15-20A breaker in series with the fuses.  The breaker should trip before the fuse in most cases.


Swag hooks in drywall ceiling, steel frame house

The hook that you are using is not the issue - how it is secured in the dry wall is. I am guessing your lanterns are probably 4 lbs - you can check by standing on a scale with a lantern and then getting on the scale with out the lantern and subtract, the difference will be the lantern weight.

Something like this should do it, you will notice the grip mechanism that fits above the drywall - screw in type swags do not have the necessary grip and weight distribution to hold that kind of weight and also handle the lantern being touched or moved.

If you perform a search you might look for Toggle Wings or Toggle Bolts.
Added above to the answer per comments. 6-19-2018

https://www.amazon.com/BBTO-Totally-Ceiling-Hardware-Installation/dp/B0792Y4SGB/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1522997013&sr=1-1&keywords=BBTO-Totally-Ceiling-Hardware-Installation


Probably not load bearing. Looks like roof load is on closet back wall (is that an exterior wall)? To be doubly sure, I always go to attic and look to see if there's any roof trussing sitting on top of the wall you're removing. Measure downstairs for landmarks (for reference points) when you're up there. Good luck, demo is FUN!


How to Change this Burned Out Light Bulb

If it's a GU10 base or similar it's like a bayonet fitting. Push in then twist (usually anticlockwise) and it should pop out.

https://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/article/gu10-lightbulb-guide/

To grip the bulb use a sucker or removal tool, eg

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wolfcraft-wfc-5499000-gu10-lamp-removal-tool/6084k


What is the best way to redo a shower base?

Unfortunately, yes. The problem is the liner or waterproofing membrane.

The subfloor that needs to be reinforced is below the membrane. The membrane must be continuous up the wall, so wall tiles need to come down. It's possible only the bottom row or two of tiles would have to come down, but that depends on the method of waterproofing used, and if you're okay with the aesthetic (eg: tiles at the bottom looking different).

If there's no waterproofing layer (possible, since this was installed incorrectly to begin with), then the new contractor will want to install that as well, or their install will eventually have problems (mold, leaks, and/or rotting wood and thus more cracked tiles).


What is a good barrier between grout and wood?

You may not want to grout that joint.  Caulking (using a matching color with the grout) may be the better solution.  This way it will not crack as the wood expands and contracts over time with temp/humidity changes.


Why am I measuring 16 volts on a wire that should be at 0 volts?

The 16 V is likely an induced/stray/phantom voltage. That power line is "receiving" a voltage just like a radio would, since it is bundled along with a live wire (~120-130 V). The other red wire may be connected to ground (or neutral) somewhere, so that it is held at ~0 V.

If my assumption of it being an phantom voltage is true, the 16 V wouldn't be able to power any devices, and can be considered safe. It is mostly caused by the capacitance between the two wires. When you attach the multimeter to the system, you create a current path between the "open" wire and the neutral. The AC current then can flow between the wires (AC goes through capacitors), and then through the multimeter (which has a finite input impedance). The current flowing through your multimeter determines the voltage that you are measuring.

You may want to look at how the switch is wired in order to fully understand the circuit before replacing the power receptacle. Also, remember that the switch should connect/disconnect the LINE (~120 V) and not the neutral. The neutral and ground should always be connected to the outlet (and be unswitched).

One way to avoid this problem is to use a low-input-impedance voltmeter. Modern digital voltmeters usually have input impedances of around 10 MΩ. Using a meter with an input impedance of less than 500 kΩ will load the unconnected wire enough that it will not be able to develop a substantial phantom voltage. Adding a 500 kΩ - 1MΩ resistor in parallel with your voltmeter's input would be a reasonable way to dispell the phantom voltages (but be careful that you you are within the power rating of the resistor, power=V^2/R).

Old analog voltmeters often have a low enough input impedance that they will not be able to measure the phantom voltage. Also, there are some modern digital multimeters that are designed to have low enough input impedances that the phantom voltages cannot be measured. These multimeters often use PTC thermistors in parallel with their input.

Lab experiment

As an example, I've connected about 1 meter of NM 12/2 cable in a way similar to your situation. I connected neutral and line to the outside two conductors of the NM cable, and left the ground floating. I measured 31 V between neutral and the ground wire:

Theoretical calculation

Here's an example calculation (with many simplifications, worst case scenario, etc), showing that this "phantom" can be quite large, written in Matlab code. It assumes that the "red" connector is between the "hot" and grounded wires, that you're using 12-gauge wire, 19 mil of insulation on each wire, dielectric constant of PVC, your multimeter's input impediance is 10 Mohm, and no inductive coupling (only capacitive coupling). It uses the capacitance formula on Wikipedia for a pair of parallel wires. The assumed wire length is one meter. The result is that you see a phantom voltage of 33.4 V, similar to what I measured in "real life". This shows that 16 V is a "reasonable" phantom voltage that could be measured with modern, high input impedance, voltmeters.

This calculation is based on assuming that your 12/3 cable looks something like:

This would produce a voltage divider circuit (assuming no inductive coupling) something like:

The phantom voltage is the voltage across Rmm (on the right side of the diagram). For AC circuits, complex numbers can be used to represent the impedance of each element in the circuit. The impedance of a capacitor is 1/(jωC). Wikipedia has more information on voltage dividers. The magnitude of the output voltage is what a multimeter would measure, and its phase can be discarded.

% For NM 12/2 cable, approx....
% Assume flat NM cable, with Red-Line-Ground-Neutral

f = 60; % Hz
w = 2*pi*f; % rad
Vin = 120; % V(rms)

% wire diameter
a=2.053e-3; % m

% Insulation, 19 mil
t_ins = 0.019*2.54/100; %m

% Cable length
l = 1; % m

% Dielectric constant
e0 = 8.854e-12; % F/m
e = 3 * e0; % PVC has a dielectric constant of 3.

%Multimeter input resistance, value of Fluke 80 series V
Rmm = 1e7;

% Wire capacitance, formula from Wikipedia
C = pi*e*l/acosh((2*t_ins+a)/a); % F
% The impedance of a capacitor is 1/(j*w*C)
Z_C = 1./(1j*w*C);

% Impedance of Z_C in parallel with Rmm.
% Parallel impedances are combined as the inverse of the sum of the
% inverses.
Z_2 = 1/(1/Z_C + 1/Rmm);

% The phantom voltage is a voltage divider of Z_C is series
% with Z_2. The phantom voltage is the voltage over Z_2.
Vphantom = Vin * abs(Z_2/(Z_C + Z_2));

fprintf('Phantom voltage is %f V.\n', Vphantom);


Determining maximum total current able to be drawn through household electrical panel

TLDR: Ask the power company what size your service is.  There may also be evidence on the meter or meter pan.

This is a classic "Rule of Six" panel

Where's the main breaker?  Electrical service to houses used to be 60A.  As it got bigger, there was a problem - large breakers like 100A or 200A were very expensive. A compromise was struck where the "main breaker" could be up to six smaller breakers.  That's what you see in the upper part of this panel.

They are not paralleled!   Each of the breakers serves a different load.

This panel, like many "Rule of Six" panels, has its own built-in subpanel - that's what you see in spaces 17-28.  The subpanel area is fed by one of the six breakers in the "Rule of Six" area.  This feeds all other loads in the house.

(Space 15-16 are not spaces, the lids are renovable but there are no busbars behind them.)

Your loads

What is in the upper area?   Probably, based on labeling,

space 1,3 50A ??????
space 5,7 50A air conditioner (a little large? Maybe a heat pump with aux heat?)
space 9,11 50A the subpanel below
space 2,4 40A range/oven
space 6,8 30A ?? likely an electric dryer
space 10,12 30A water heater

You notice this adds up to 250A -- there's no such service size.  You also notice the subpanel breakers add up to way, way more than 50A, so you can see it's normal to oversubscribe breakers on a service.   Actually, breakers are there to protect wires and appliances. Wire size (e.g. 12 AWG) decides breaker size (e.g. 20A).

What size is my service?

As far as the subpanel area, your service is 50A, but hold that thought.

As far as the capacity of the "Rule of Six" area, you'd need to consult with your power company or look for evidence at your meter or your meter base.

EDIT: You could also pop off the panel cover and inspect (carefully, from a respectful distance) the fat wires landing on the main lugs at the top of your panel. Look for a size number right before the letters "AWG".  Expect 2, 1, 0, 00, 000, 0000, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 (these are the same as 0 thru 0000).  Or right before the letters "MCM" or "KCMIL" expect 250, 300, 350, 400 or 500.  Those wires come from your meter and will inform the size of your service, as these are the wires that will burn your house down if you overload them.

EDIT: Your other limiting factor is the capacity of the panel. Search it for marks as to its maximum capacity in amps, typically 100, 125, 150, 200 or 225.  Exceeding this is out of the question.

Keep in mind you only have 5 breakers in the "Rule of Six" area and you are full.  You can get CH breakers up to 100A ($50) or  125A ($110) in the normal shape (which would force you to abandon one large appliance)...  or 150+ amps in "beast mode" packaging, where the breaker is 4 spaces wide (eliminating two large appliances, ouch).

The problem with the "Rule of Six" design is there is no main breaker to keep you honest, so nothing really keeps you from putting in six large things and overloading the circuit and burning those wires.  That's why Rule of Six was outlawed.   You can't buy a panel like that today, and you shouldn't continue this one in service any longer than you have to.   Dismantle it lovingly, and offer it up on eBay. It'll save someone's bacon.  But only sell it to a licensed electrician.

Get a better panel and make this a "Rule of One" panel

If it was my house, I would add an additional sub-panel quite near this one, and move all my loads to it.  Then I would fit one of those big CH breakers in the "Rule of Six" area and have it only power that subpanel.  Put blanking plates over every other space in the old panel, and you now have reduced it to a giant main breaker only.

EDIT: Alternately 2 or 3 subpanels, as I would not be inclined to pay the big bucks for the 150A jumbo breaker.

I am very picky about panel brands. CH is a fine type (other than this one being "Rule of Six"), and I would even consider CH for my new subpanel.  Reuse all your breakers!

It needn't be done in one sitting.  Find a period when you can do without enough loads out of the Rule of Six area to make room for the new breaker (like A/C in winter).  Once you wire up the new panel, at that point both panels are live, and you can move the other loads at your leisure, one per Saturday or whatever works for you.


Do I need crushed rock under a rarely used rock paver walkway?

Do you need? No.  You could technically lay them down on grass and they'd probably be OK for a short period of time.  But the next person who rents the house will be annoyed, and so might the landlord when the pavers settle.

A 30kg of gravel is about $5 at my local HD - so how much money are you really saving here?  And lets say you save $50 - if they settle while you are still living there, it will cost you more than $50 to fix after-the-fact.

Do it right the first time.


Since it is an existing installation you don't need the ground wire until you upgrade it.

Your inspector may even allow you to use the 3-wire method with the new panel until you replace the wiring.

Fuse panels are not necessarily obsolete until they are no longer serviceable.

You could use it as-is unless you have the need for more than 60 amps right away. If it is working fine now don't be in a big hurry to spend your money.

Good luck!


What concrete type should I use for a pizza oven base slab?

The slab loading (pressure over area) is trivial - you have 4 square meters to carry 1600 kilos (rounding up) which is pretty much nothing for any grade of concrete.
The more important function is spreading that load (plus the mass of the slab itself) across the soil, but that's still a very low loading (roughly 4 KPa, plus the slab (at roughly another 1000 kg, so perhaps 7 kPa total),  if I have my SI units straight) while concrete compressive strength is 15 MPa at the low end. Clay soil bearing is about 70 kPa and other soils bear more.
A 100-110mm thick slab is probably plenty thick, and gives the 50mm concrete cover your reinforcing steel should have for corrosion resistance.
What is under the slab and your local climate may add other constraints, such as footings for frost movement resistance (or not.)


As to what you're looking at...

One of the wonderful things about conduit is you aren't restricted to standard NM wire colors (black/red/white), you have a rainbow to choose from (save for green, which is reserved for ground, and white or grey, which are reserved for neutrals).  So, the electrician that put this in was smart, using yellow for the switched leg to distinguish it from the blue used for the always-hots.  White, of course, is neutral then, which means there isn't a spare wire in there already for you to use.

But that lack of a spare wire is no big deal!

However, another wonderful thing about conduit is that it's possible to add more wires provided there's still acceptable space in there.  Assuming that the conduit in the walls is half-inch (the smallest size you'd see used in a wall) and that the wires are 12AWG (the largest found on a lighting circuit), you get ~27mm2 of fill vs 78mm2 of usable space in a half-inch conduit.  Adding a fourth wire to the conduit for the extra switched hot puts us at 36mm2 of fill, which is still no big deal.

All in all -- installing a double switch here will be a bit challenging (you may wish an electrician as conduit pulling is a non-trivial exercise), but not nearly as troublesome as if it was wired using NM, where you'd have had to rip the cable clean out of the wall and put an entirely new cable in to get this job done.


How can I build a fence with posts that rest on concrete?

You could build a modified free standing Colonial Style Log Fence. It is basically logs or boards in a zig-zag pattern. Instead of logs it can be built with dimensional lumber 2x4's or 4x4's etc. They were originally used to mark property lines or animal confinement. You could drill a hole in both ends of the boards and use a piece of pipe or re-bar as a pin to align the zigs to the zags. The advantage of this type of fence is wind passes through it. It would take a decent gale to move it. The minus is it uses a lot of material per linear foot of fence line and depending on the lumber used could allow small animals or children through the fence.


what's the difference between "silicone sealant" and "mastic/MS-polymer sealant"

I found some information about it:

What is it exactly?

Look at this YT video (though missing in my opinion 2 great advantages: 1) much easier to work with than silicon (doesn't stick or dry too quickly), 2) huge lifespan once opened (it's hard to keep silicon for long time) ).

  MS Polymer™ is a water- and solvent-free, clear, odourless solution
  and liquid at room temperature. It has low volatility and a low Tg.
  When it comes into contact with a catalyst and water, a crosslinked
  matrix is formed, providing good heat and chemical resistance.

  MS Polymer stands for “modified silicone”, although it is not entirely
  silicone-based. It has a polyether backbone with reactive silyl
  functionality (telechelic).There are 2 kinds: a dimethoxysilyl (DMS)
  with 2 reactive groups (each side) on it and a trimethoxysilyl (TMS)
  with 3 reactive groups on it, making it a faster curing system than
  the DMS type. The TMS polymer is a newer version which creates a more
  strongly crosslinked matrix during curing in order to make harder and
  stronger material.

  The biggest difference with products common in the PSA and tapes world
  is that crosslinking occurs through moisture-curing. So by addition of
  a catalyst and subsequent contact with water, MS Polymer™ will start
  crosslinking and form a matrix structure. Besides the functionality,
  which can be altered by using either DMS or more reactive TMS, the
  polyether backbone can also be tuned by varying molecular-weight and
  branching. The polymer is telechelic, having 2 ends, but also a
  single-end version can be used as a kind of plasticiser. The product
  range includes a high-strength grade, meaning that the functional
  groups are even denser, creating even harder or higher-strength
  material. A mixture of polymers can be used to make many different
  kinds of products.

What can you do with it?

This add another adventage to the list above:

  It's an adhesive.

  MS Polymer™ is mainly utilised in the adhesives and sealants world
  where it is a more common technology. (In contrast, silicone is not
  actually an adhesive, its adhesive qualities tend to break down much
  sooner than those of an actual adhesive *.) Its applications
  include sealants and adhesives for construction, automotive and DIY,
  such as waterproofing, glazing and insulating.

  The polymer is also fairly to very compatible with many rubbers,
  acrylics, resins and additives. In other words, it is very compatible
  with many components currently used in PSAs to make a tape.

Some important questions remains:

is it as resistant than silicone ? (which can bear impressive amount of heat)
does it have the same lifespan?

source

If it wasn't more expensive than silicone, I would personaly use it instead since it's much better to use.


Are all rectangular outlets, switches, and plates the same dimensions and interchangeable?

Yes, all "Decora" style devices share the same cover plate opening, within a couple of thousandths of an inch (+/-.005" or so). GFCI receptacles also fit this description, as well as many dimmers, timers and "smart switches".

For instance the opening on a Hubbell plate is 1.312"x2.625", while these Leviton are slightly different, but all within a reasonable spec to be called the same.


Outlet box between shallow and standard?

Shallow box with an extender ring? Or double gang metal box with a single gang mud ring if you need more volume could work. You can mount either box set back from the face of the drywall


How do you remove rust stains from bathroom sink?

I'd stick with CLR or vinegar : use plumber's putty to make a ring and make a small pool.  Hydrogen peroxide would be another choice (not concurrently, with ANY of the other choices)

Its location suggests a leaky soap dispenser.

Solid surface materials can be sanded (starting at 220) and then up through the grits (320, 400, 600), finishing with auto body rubbing compound then polishing compound.


How much of a gap do I leave between the wall and the OSB I am putting down on the concrete for a subfloor?

I did the same thing in my last house, using DeltaFL and 4x8 sheets of OSB.

Spacing

I used spacers to leave a 1/4" gap around the outside, and then framed all interior walls on top of the subfloor.

I had laminate installed on some of it, and carpet on the rest. I can attest it's a great way to do a floor as it has the feel of an upstairs floor. I lived in that house for 4 years without any issues whatsoever.

Screws

I screwed it all down, and ended up using at least 24 tapcons per sheet. My floor was really quite level, but any minor variation meant when you walked on that spot you could hear the clicking of the plastic sheet, so for a couple weeks after I had it installed I was still finding 'clicking' spots and adding tapcons.

The downside: it's backbreaking work. I would definitely invest in a rotary hammer drill. I helped a friend do his the same way, and we had a rotary drill that time, and it could do 4 or 5 holes in the time a normal hammer drill can do one. Total install time was about 10 hours to do around 900 sqft (including everything) with 3 guys. I did mine mostly by myself working a couple hours every evening, about 350 sqft, and it took me a couple weeks.


Should I install a floating floor or a staple down for engineered hardwood?

I have placed Dricore or its equivalent on 2 different jobs. Both are holding up fine, neither felt hollow or creaky. One was in a basement slab, the other was placed on a slab on grade such as yours. The only difference is one had 4" to 10" wide plank flooring from recovered barn wood, the other 2 1/4" strip.

While the subfloor was being laid, I glued the edges of all the pieces before placing. even though it is not required. Also the perimeter had a gap to the wall of at least 1/2". It is laid as a floating floor. I really don't see any problem stapling down your engineered floor to that. When the strip floor went down, the staples where checked for length so they did not go all the way through and pierce the plastic matting.


I do not have the answer to your question, but would like to share my experience.
The previous owner of our house upgraded from 100A to 200A service. One of two things happened, can't recall, but either a) new roof or b) smart meter installation. Whichever it was, the power company said that the roof attachment was not strong enough to support the weight of the 200A service, and would need to be repaired. They gave me a pamphlet, which of course I cannot find right now. Went thru various scenarios, including installing a larger diameter pipe, but in the end, I paid a licensed electrician, he  installed a u-bolt that wrapped around one of the rafters and feed between the slats. Also an MSEE.
TL;DR might need to do something to handle the increased weight of heavier wire.


How do I properly frame an opening to angle a through-wall air conditioner?

It's much easier to check that something is level than to check that something is 6 degrees or 1/4 inch higher.

Build it level. Then add a 1/4 inch strip of wood (a length of lath or trim) across the inside edge of the horizontal framing member.

You are correct that the sleeve will be sitting on two edges, the added trim strip and the outside edge of the exterior horizontal member. But the air conditiner is quite rigid and the sleeve sufficiently so to resist flex. The weight is not so great that the boards will be compressed or the machine flexed.


Are cracks in a newly poured concrete basement floor a problem?

Well this is a pretty big deal because we don't know the cause.

First let's go over common reasons we get cracks on new floors.

Soil wasn't properly compacted.  Soil should be compacted with a rock bed on top.
Bad mixing at site.  Especially in the summer contractors pump too much water in the mix.  The water makes the concrete weaker and it does crack easier.
Bad mix at plant.  Just a poor mix of materials coming in.
Bad environment for mix.  Too hot, rain, too long to site, whatever.
They didn't cut the concrete or didn't cut it quick enough.  The concrete needs to be cut (I suggest every 10x10 foot area) to allow for expansion.  It really needs to be cut the first day.
Didn't use rebar.  This is a common cost cutter and I have seen rebar pulled before pour.
House was built on unstable land.  Could have been a landfill, could have springs underneath, whatever.
Soil type wasn't conducive to their install method.  Really too many things to list here but basically different types of soil expand and contract more due to moisture levels.  Also it is possible that it was pushed even further by either a lot of rain or a drought.

Those are what I got off the top of my head.  I am positive there are more reasons for cracks in your basement.  If I were to totally guess I would say they didn't prep right in that corner - It seems like the corner is dropping on you already and maybe it wasn't floor wasn't compacted correctly.  The crack starts on the outward "L corner" which is normal but heads right across the corner - most insignificant cracks in concrete tend to be straight.  This crack has its shape for a reason.

What do I think you should do?  First ask questions.  See if the contractor knows why it cracked.  "It happens" is not an answer.  My reply would be "Me not paying you happens too."  If the contractor/builder doesn't want to take blame (it is their fault) then you need to get a psi reading on the floor, measure its thickness, and also prove that the floor is rebarred/reinforced correctly.  You will almost certainly need an engineer.  Even if the problem is obvious your builder is less likely to move until it is proved from a creditable source.

You cannot sit on this.  If the mix was bad - well did they use the same mix for the walls too?  If it was bad prep, what happens when you have issues in a couple years?  I have seen basements that have had to be repoured and it is a mess.  Also will set you back 10K in the states.

Again, no matter what anyone tells you - cracks in a fresh floor are not acceptable.  This is a sizable crack.  Even if an engineer checks everything out I would demand a longer warranty on the basement floor and to have them seal it.  Either that or they start over.

Note (based on additional pictures: I am not there so it is a bit of conjecture.  But it is not a good sign when an area is relatively dry and you have a corner that is not only wet but it seems dropped too.  It is a guessing game for me too at this point, not seeing what you have going on.  My top 2 guess (and they are guesses) -

#1 - They dug and compacted.  While digging they left over dug out that corner and then filled it.  Then they never compacted it correctly.  After it rained a few times, the corner started dropping.  Also when I have a slab compacted the rock is part of the equation.  I don't see any rock in your pictures.

#2 - You have some sort of natural underground current or spring.  I have a stream that is 3 feet under, about a foot from my house - and I can't imagine if it where a foot over and 2 more feet down.

(Do you have any pictures right before they poured?)


Should I extend existing 12/3 circuits with 12/2 for wiring attic?

You can run 12-2 from the box to the other locations. If a double breaker one with a single handle or handle tied is installed you could use the red wire for a 2nd 120V circuit using the same ground and neutral. This is legal and called a multiwire branch circuit. This could provide up to 4 circuits if both "spares are 12-3. Capping the red is a fine way to do it if you only need the 2 circuits and want to run 12-2.


How to seal up decay around bilco doors?

I don't know how much time/money you want to invest in this project but two things are important, actually, three:

Water: Water is the enemy, so anything you can do to prevent introduction of water is key, it is the #1 solution and preventative measure
Rust: Unless you are going to sand (right down to the shiny metal), prime, and paint all and any areas exposed to the elements, rust will continue, even under a fresh coat of paint or any other sealant. So, weather stripping will NOT help, in fact, doing something like that on an already compromised surface will help it to retain water and rot faster
erosion: since the concrete has erosion, cracks, etc, mastic or any silicon sealant can delay continued degradation of the concrete, it will not stop it. Pay particular attention to my note in the first bullet, because any repair you make, you want to seal out water and tell the water where to go. Give it a path.

What you might do is replace the door, and get one that fits over the cement and just be sure to think like water & gravity, and make sure you send it somewhere ... else.


Do I need a downrod or special bracket for a ceiling fan mount on a slanted ceiling?

Some fans are designed to be installed without a down rod, where the fan housing mounts rigidly to the base plate (which in turn mounts to the electrical box). These are more rare lately since the stubby downrod approach tends to be simpler to install (and probably cheaper to manufacture).

Whether those fans' housings are robust enough to handle their weight at an angle will depend on the particular fan. I would expect that the fan's instructions would specify whether this is an option for low-profile mounting. It's not going to be a matter of special brackets, but housing design.


Best way to create a reversible projector screen?

You wouldn't want any standoffs. That would create a problem when you reverse the panel. The pivots must be in plane with the screen.

I'd look for a single bearing wheel that you can mount on a pin or bolt inserted directly into the frame. Luggage wheels might be just the ticket. They'll need to be very close to each corner to allow pivoting without interference.


This site is not normally a shopping helper site but I took a look to see if it that style of peg hinge popped up as a common type. (I have seen these in the past believe it or not). Most of the typical suppliers to cabinet makers (Rockler, Woodcraft, McFeeleys) do not appear to carry hinges like that.

The closest I could find (and it may work for you) is a metal peg style shelf support.

Metal shelf support pegs are available in many of the big box stores and online at places including Amazon.

Edit:
Rockler does offer a similar type of hinge that may be adaptable to your application. These have the advantage in that there is some adjustability of the door alignment and the doors are easily removable.


Filter water in a tank without a whole house filter

It sounds like you have really hard water. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water

This means that the water has a lot of dissolved minerals in it. These minerals cannot be removed with a filter and actually tend to clog filters and shower heads. You can buy certain soaps and detergents that claim to work better with hard water but their effect is not as good as a water softener.

Except for softening the water your options are limited to a different soap or other source of water. You might look for a source of fresh water close by such as a lake or river that has softer water for bathing and hair washing.

Ironically, people love mineral water to drink but it is not very good for washing.

Good luck!


Should I use wider boards or shift studs to clear plumbing?

You can move the framed wall into the room to provide clearance. Thus is a common practice.
Most interior walls built alongside exterior walls have doubled too plates so wall heights match. Most basement energy and partition walls do not.


First try to grease the stem by opening the valve to max opening and smearing grease on the stem. Use special plumber's grease.

If that doesn't work, turn off the water and remove the service opening and and advance the stem all the way through the packing and apply plumber's grease to the stem where it seals against the packing. It may be necessary to apply a small amount of grease to the coarse threads inside the valve which advance and withdraw the stem, but I'm not sure about that. When putting it back in be sure to have the valve opened sufficiently so that the rubber seal is not pressed against the seat.


How can we protect this furnace from environmental conditions?

Without major retrofits, probably not a great deal. Not blowing up the house trumps insulating and especially air-sealing with gas appliances - someone already made the decision to park these out in the cold rather than in the house, and adequate ventiliation is a must. There may also be a deliberate intent to bleed some heat to the garage without actually heating it, as such. You certainly can't effectively insulate the closet with those doors, and given the needed vents, it wouldn't do a great deal anyway.

There is no real concern about the air feeding the combustion being cold - it makes little to no difference. Being sure that the air ducts to and from the house are well-insulated where exposed would be good, and likewise the water lines for the water heater.


new fan has 3 wires, 1-white, 1-blue, 1-black. coming out of the ceil is 1-red, 1-white, and 1-black

Without knowing how many switches control the fan, I assume you have 2 switches. 1 for the light and one for the fan. If this is the case, you hook black-black, white-white, bare(green)-bare(green), and red-blue. Then you should, if your house wiring is "normal", have the 2 switches controlling how they did before. Now, if you have 1 switch, then your red could be a traveler to another switch, a 3-way switch. In this case, the blue and black both go to black, white-white, bare(green)-bare(green), red to the other switch red(normally this would not have been unhooked if this is the case.)


How can I safely cut this pipe with an angle grinder?

Remember, cast iron is brittle.  A chain-breaker does not actually cut it, it cracks and separates it.  You can use the same principle: use the angle grinder make a groove to weaken material around the perimeter of the material  right where you want it to break.  Then allow the grinding wheel to penetrate all the way through at only a single spot (a 1/4" or so).  Then use a regular cold chisel to finish the job:  Drive the chisel in at a tangent, following the groove you just cut.  The wedge shape of the chisel will lift the cup up and away from the pipe, and like cutting glass, it'll snap right where you weakened it.

I've done it many times, and it only takes a few minutes.


The object in the bottom is a grate for a fan, probably a bathroom fan.

All the other objects look like trims for light fixtures, perhaps recessed/pot lights.

As far as if you "need" them, I can't answer that.  The might be garbage, they might be spares, or you might have missing trims throughout your house.


Does window screen frame thickness matter? 5/16" vs 7/16"

The larger frames (7/16"+) are sturdier when it comes to the screening of the frame (less tendency to bow inward when pulling screen material taut) and are generally sturdier due to larger/stronger corner inserts.
More important than frame dimension is the type of frame construction. You want frame material that is at least .020 aluminum, and you want mitered corners with aluminum corner inserts (as opposed to the cheesy plastic corner inserts designed to be used with straight-cut frame stock). Also, assuming fiberglass, I recommend 18 x 14 screen mesh versus lame (but commonly supplied for profit margin reasons) 18 x 16 mesh.
I feel that you should use the biggest and strongest frame material that your windows will accommodate mechanically and aesthetically.


Stair tread damage - repairable/replaceable? (photo)

If it's easy to remove the tread (and it may be) it's likely easiest to just replace it.

If it's not so easy to replace it, what you could do is put in a couple of pocket screws using a pocket screw kit. Kreg is a popular brand that makes pocket screw kits that you can find at most any big-box store.

You'd set up the jig, drill your holes, squirt a bit of wood glue into the crack, then screw it together.

You then fill the screw holes by gluing the included wood plugs in, give it a sand, and ready to paint.


Ok now we know the want is for the chase to be a verticle space with 2 or more vents and some electrical. Yes this can be done, enclosed vents are required to be triple walled pipe in my state and the wiring must be rated for the temp in that area. Many wire types are rated for 90deg C this is very hot and with some venting in the chase it will stay well below this threshold. The dryer vent may need a booster fan and can be single wall, I always suggest a booster when going verticle or more than ~15' horizontal.


How to fix a door that closes, but is still too close to the frame, causing the hinge to pull out

The problem with the hinge pulling out is caused by the mortise being too deep either on the door or frame.  Look at both sides of the hinge and determine if one or both are recessed below the surface of the wood stock.  Remove the offending side of the hinge and shim it out flush to the wood surface with some solid cardboard cut to fit the mortise. Reinstall the hinge over the shim. This should allow the hinge to close completely without putting pressure on the hinge screws.

As far as warping is concerned, that is not normal. Would have to see a pic or have a better description of the problem in order to address it. You mentioned cutting .25 inch off a side. How did you do that?  If not cut perfectly straight, that may be a factor in your hinge problem.


Is it a problem that my laundry drain protrudes above ground level?

You need to have it redone and buried.  Though it is unsightly, the real problem is not appearance but the exposure, not only to the elements but to human influence.  It needs to be trenched and placed below freeze level.


Do I need to winterize 40' underground hose?

Blow it out with air.

Over simplified example: the ends may freeze first, then when more freezes in the middle it has nowhere to go.

There is a gadget for this if you want to use a compressor.   Essentially an adapter "air compressor male to hose fitting".

These adapters are available in several configurations notabley male and female hose bib such as:

Or, if unavailable, make one with 2 or 3 parts from the big box store.


Connecting an earth wire to distribution board

basically the earth path provides a low resitance path for safety and if supplier has supplied an earth already in the incoming supply should be sufficient . RCD protection monitors live /neutral and will trip when unbalanced ..connecting an earth spike to earth terminal if instalation already earthed makeslittle to no difference as it is the loop resistance path that is imporatant and a local electricain should be able to carry out a loop impedence (z) test to confirm path is fine.


1/4 sink cold water shut off valve doesn’t completely stop water

It is not uncommon for the stop-valves at the wall to fail (in various ways). The 1/4 turn valves generally seem to last longer than the traditional style valves, but they fail too.
Your only option now is to turn off the water at an upstream valve and replace the stop valve. Your home should have a main shut-off, or you may have to go out to where the water is metered and turn it off there.
I encourage you to go with a 1/4 turn valve again despite the trouble you have now; try to buy a quality valve, not the cheapest one. A plumbing shop (as opposed to a "big-box" hardware store) may be a better place to purchase a good brand.


What material can I use as a temporary window pane?

You can buy big sheets of plexi at big-box hardware stores, or online cut to size. A simple websearch for "plexiglass sheet" turned up a large number of wholesalers.

However, the cost may surprise you; a 36" x 48" x 1/4" sheet was $100 at the random place I checked.

Still, afterward you'll have a huge piece of very durable plexiglass that you could use for something else.


What controls the min/max brightness of a dimmer switch light

First check that your dimmer does not have a dimming range adjustment.  Several of the Lutron CFL/LED dimmers have this ability, check for an adjustment dial. LUTRON ADJUSTMENT

But lower dimmable levels depend on what type of bulb you have (CFL, LED, incandescent, halogen).
Lutron Dimmable Bulbs identifies the following

  What does “compatible” mean?
  Compatible means that the bulbs can be dimmed, although the bulb’s dimming performance may not
  match what you’re used to seeing when dimming an incandescent or halogen bulb. These bulbs have also
  been electrically tested to confirm that the control may be used up to its full rated CFL/LED load without
  affecting the life of the control.
  Products on this list are considered compatible with the respective Lutron C·L dimmers. Depending on the
  quality of the bulb you select, compatible bulbs may still:
  - have less dimming range than an incandescent or halogen bulb
  - dim less smoothly than an incandescent or halogen bulb
  - flicker or shimmer at certain light levels
  - buzz

As you notice LED and CFLs are not able to dim to the same levels that incandescents and halogens can achieve.  So if your using LEDs or CFLs and want to dim to a lower level you could switch to incandescent or halogen.  But if you must use LEDs or CFLs then the only way to have less "brightness" is to move to a lower lumen bulb or try changing color temperature.


What breaker size and wire gauge should I use for a new garage outlet circuit?

You didn't mention what type of equipment you'll be using, nor did you mention if it was an attached or detached garage.  Without a bit more detail, it's not possible to give an accurate answer. As a general guideline, you'd use 12 AWG copper conductors with a 20 ampere breaker, and 14 AWG copper conductors with a 15 ampere breaker.  Since the receptacles are in a garage, they'll have to be GFCI protected. This protection can be provided by a GFCI receptacle, or a GFCI breaker.

If you're going to be using multiple pieces of equipment that draw a lot of power, you might want to consider running a 20 ampere multi-wire branch circuit. If you have any locations where you'd use multiple high draw items together (e.g. saw and dust collection), you could install a double gang box with two duplex receptacles. Feeding each receptacle with a separate leg of the circuit, will allow you to use two high draw items without tripping the breaker.

Since it's a garage, I'd install a single 20 ampere circuit at the very least. A 15 ampere circuit would be fine for lighting, but you'll find it quite limiting when/if you start plugging in tools/equipment.


New light fixture - grounding wire connection

Generally speaking, all grounds can be bundled. You want the fixture, any metal boxes and conduit, and any switches all connected to the grounding conductor.

In your case, bundle or chain them all together in the simplest and most secure manner available. Don't put more than one wire under a screw, and use appropriately-sized nuts where needed.

Use short lengths of wire to make jumps from screws to nuts, or from nuts to other nuts. As element11 said in a comment,

  This is what is known as pigtailing. If you have multiple grounding
  wires, take a short 4-6" piece of ground wire and connect it to the
  screw terminal in the box. Then use a wire nut to connect this wire to
  all other grounds that enter the box, such as the fixture ground and
  the ground wire going back to the panel.


The pipe might be a cleanout for your drains or maybe the drain for an earlier fixture there. The black and red thing was a cap.  It has been broken or sawn off.  Just replace that cap with an identical one, or better, get an actual cleanout that fits the grey pipe and install that instead.  I'd avoid using a compression fitting like this especially in a basement.   There are situations where the basement drain can develop pressure behind it, and the cap then pops off.  Very unpleasant.  An actual cleanout looks like this


Yes, as a short-term solution, terminating the wire in a listed box is a good idea.

As a general statement, using something with a higher amp rating than necessary is fine.

If you could temporarily cut the power to the circuit, it would be even better, but I can imagine that other things are running...


This could be a system with an iron filter and a softner especially if you have a very high iron content in your water. Softners can only handle small amounts of iron. It could also be a double softner that uses one on a normal basis  and the smaller one  when the system is back flushing. I would call the local water treatment company to check the existing system and make recommendations to you.


Edit: sorry my post is for the 8702 model. I was unable to find an 8703 model
 but would expect the manual to be v.similar.

From what I have read, the washer dryer doesn't have a lint filter. The user manual can be found here:

https://www.northlondonappliancerepairs.co.uk/resources/lamona/27-lamona-integrated-washer-dryer-hja8702/file.html

Part 6 of the user manual suggests maintenance protocols. However part 5.5 explains how to use the cleaning cycle.

5.5 CLEAN PROGRAMME
To keep the appliance operating at peak efficiency over time, it has a CLEAN programme for regular
cleaning of the drying circuit to remove any fluff deposits.
1. After a given number of drying cycles, the CLEAN symbol lights up on the display to warn that this programme needs to be run. The warning light remains on until the CLEAN programme is carried out. The light
goes out at the end of the programme.
2. To perform the CLEAN programme, proceed as follows:
a. Make sure that the drum is completely empty and close the door.
b. Turn the knob to the CLEAN programme (see programmes table for the exact position on the knob)
c. Press the START/PAUSE button
The CLEAN programme can also be carried out even if the light on the display is not on.

CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
Important – Before carrying out any cleaning or maintenance procedure, the plug must be disconnected
from the power supply socket.
6.1 CLEANING THE OUTSIDE OF THE APPLIANCE
 Regular, thorough cleaning will keep your appliance looking good.
 Clean the exterior of the appliance with soap, water & a damp cloth, then dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.
 The plastic parts should just be wiped with a damp cloth.
 Do not scrape with pointed objects, or use solvents or products containing abrasive substances because
they damage the surfaces.
 For reasons of safety, never spray the washer-dryer with jets of water.
6.2 CLEANING THE DOOR GASKET
Check regularly that there are no coins, buttons, nails or pins in the folds of the door gasket.
6.3 CLEANING THE DRAIN PUMP
The drain pump only needs cleaning if it has been blocked by buttons, coins or similar objects and the water is not
being pumped out.
In this case, proceed as described below.
1.Remove the mains plug to disconnect the appliance from the electricity supply.
2.Proceed as follows:
use a small screwdriver as a lever to remove the
plugs shown here, turn the plinth downwards and access the pump.

3.Extract the drain hose ”A” - (Have a small towel/cloth ready in case of spills)
Warning!
If the hose is hot, the water is hot or boiling hot. Place a shallow container on
the floor and remove the plug “B” to drain off the water.
Depending on the amount of water in the appliance, the container may have
to be emptied several times.
When no more water is coming out, close the hose again by pushing the plug
“B” firmly back into place.
 EN
21
4.Unscrew the cover of the pump “D” by turning it to the left.
Clean the pump and remove any foreign bodies.
Also check the inside “E”, making sure that the impeller turns freely; any foreign
bodies stuck in it must be removed.
5.Screw the cover back on the pump.
Secure the drain house by snapping the plug back into place "C".
Replace the plinth as follows:
Fit the bottom of the plinth first. Push it towards the cabinet and put the plugs
back into place.
6.4 CLEANING THE DETERGENT DRAWER
The detergent drawer should be kept clean, removing all solid deposits.
To simplify this operation, completely remove the detergent drawer (pull the
drawer fully out, press in the zone marked PUSH and then remove completely).
Remove the siphon "A" and clean all parts with hot water.
Fully re-insert the siphon and remove any detergent deposits before putting
the drawer back in position.
6.5 CLEANING THE WATER INTAKE FILTERS
The machine is fitted with a filter which protects the water intake valves.
The filter is in the fitting on the intake hose which is connected to the tap
The filter must be cleaned if the washer-dryer is not taking in water or the amount of water is insufficient.
To clean, proceed as follows:
 Remove the mains plug to disconnect the appliance from the electricity
supply.
 Turn off the water tap.
 Unscrew the intake hose fitting from the tap.
 Remove the intake hose fitting filter.
 Clean the filter with water, with the aid of a small brush.
 When screwing the intake hose fitting back into place, check that the filter is positioned correctly


Are there any ductless mini split systems that offer standard HVAC wiring controls?

Found some Mini Split units that can use standard 24VAC thermostat controls and it is made by EMI - Enviromaster International LLC - USA. After much searching the only standard 24VAC controllable units found were a handful of EMI's fixed capacity commercial  mini split units.

R-410A - WLCG/WLHG Wall Air Handler ,   Model: R-410A - WLCG/WLHG. The  working proof for wiring a standard 24VAC wall thermostat starts on page 11 in the Installation & Operation Manual.
Additionally they provide two other form factors both offering standard 24VAC control options.

R-410A - CACG/CAHG & CACH/CAHH Cassette Air Handlers ,   Model: R-410A CACG/CAHG & CACH/CAHH

R-410A - UNCG/UNHG Universal Ceiling/Floor Mount Air Handlers ,   Model: R-410A - UNCG/UNHG

Again pay attention to the model of EMI unit, some don't support 24VAC controls such as their entire E-verter series. Additionally not sure what kind of prices these units carry, as well as what sacrifices in efficiency are lost due to non smart inverter control, still should be better than central forced air systems, right?


How to repair a slow leak in sink food disposal, at discharge

This is a fairly easy repair to make. You didn't say if it's working but I'm assuming it is and it's not jammed. First unplug the disposal. You could have a blockage in there so make sure that there isn't standing water in the disposal.  It's possible that the screw is just loose but I would put a bucket under the disposal and remove the top screw over the tailpipe coming out of the disposal and remove the tailpipe. You'll see a rubber gasket that seals that connection to the tailpiece. I think you'll at least have to replace that gasket.
Once it's open you'll have a better idea of what's going on. It's obviously corroded. Clean it out as best you can. If everything else looks okay take the gasket along with the pictures that you posted here along to your local home center. They should have that rubber gasket.


Using fire rated drywall/sheetrock in a partially finished basement

There is absolutely no codes, IRC or otherwise that require fire rated materials between a standard domestic furnace space and other living spaces as you describe.  Do the walls with whatever you want, you have no problems with that.


Can I convert a 12 volt DC device that uses a 240v transformer, back to 12 volt?

You can just remove the transformer and wire the devices direct to the 12V circuit (paying attention to polarity of course).

Current is drawn by devices, and your power supply must be able to support it. There's nothing you need to 'do' other than ensure your supply can provide the current your devices need.

Note that a 50W panel at 12V is 4.16A, so it may not charge the battery fast enough for your situation -- even if you're only using the 5.2A lights (as opposed to the full 10.4A load with the lights and pump running).

This may or may not be a problem depending on what you're doing. If your battery is rated at 100 AH (amp hours), and you're not charging it, it should in theory power the LED lights for about 19 hours (calculator). This isn't exact because battery capacity can be affected by load, charge level, and other factors.


What radio antenna connector is required? (FM/AM)

This is a "Motorola" type connector. These have been around in automotive radios since nearly the beginning of auto radios which were introduced by Motorola. Motorola is basically gone but their connector lives on. I've also heard them called "auto antenna" connectors.

I'm sure there are some different ones on the market but this style is by far the most common.

According to Wikipedia they are also called DIN41585:

Motorola Connector


Is my well pump serviceable after overheating and starting to leak?

Sounds like a really odd setup you have there. The main water shutoff is between the pump and the pressure switch??

That is the only way that the pump would remain running like this. Water pressure in the house on the other side of the main water water shut off drops telling the pump to turn on. The pump stays running till the valve is opened again.

Since you can see it leaking, we have to assume that it is an above ground impeller pump. Several things here are of concern if this is the case.

Under completely blocked outflow, the pump develops high pressure, probably in the 150psi range. The only reason it doesn't go any higher is that the clearances between the impeller and the housing allow for leakage back to the inlet side. You have a basic hydraulic dynamometer brake which dissipates the input power as heat. The water increases in pressure and temperature leading to boiling and cavitation, the increased pressure on the shaft seal causes it to push its components together tighter causing greater heat, eventually melting the seal contact surface if it is the standard carbon ring seal and leading to leakage.

As the bearings are contained in the motor and are either sleeve or ball bearing and separated by an air gap between the shaft seal and the impeller side bearing, you may not have any damage there. The seal, though is definitely toast. You also have to check the impeller and housing for erosion, if the edges have guttering, that's toasted as well.

Repair consists of removing 4 or 6 bolts to remove the impeller housing. Inspect the impeller and impeller housing for erosion, determine if the impeller is pressed on or has a reverse thread onto the motor shaft and use appropriate removal technique. Once you have the impeller out of the way, you have to push the shaft seal out, check the motor shaft for damage, spin the motor over to feel for bearing roughness and push a new seal in place.

My experience is with largish irrigation pumps which have substantial cost and therefore repair is an option. A typical well pump is probably a replacement item and not worth the effort.

For that assessment, you would have to provide Manufacturer Make and Model so we could see if manuals are available. The more common above ground well pumps used to have repair parts available.


Remove black residue/mold on bathroom caulking

I am afraid there is no simple solution for this.

One of the issues you might have is that these locations are damp by nature ; and they might be poorly lit. Damp/Dark = Mold growth.

Now in the modern world of LED lighting people will say it is not poorly lit so it is not dark.
 Point well taken EXCEPT that LED light lacks the UV rays needed to inhibit and kill mold growth. This is why I have Halogen Lights above my shower and not LED lights. So now instead of having a terrible mold growth and cleaning problem every day, I have an easy to keep clean area with no visible mold growth anywhere.


Adding switch and new fixtures to basement chain lights. Why does it short?

You have a short that occurs when you turn the switch on. You do not need a 3-wire feed, just the usual 2+ground. If the short occurs only when you turn the switch I'd expect the short to be in the wiring after the switch, e.g. in a light box or in the light fixture. You should make sure your grounds are properly connected and that ground and neutral conductors are isolated from hot.

If you are not able to quickly pinpoint the problem, I'd recommend you draw out a diagram of the wiring and make sure you understand exactly what needs to be connected and how. Then go through the whole circuit and make it match. If you don't feel like you fully understand the desired layout, I'd recommend you consult an electrician or at least someone experienced with electrical work. Electrical is not super complex, but there are pitfalls where things seem functional but are not safe.


Is it better to splice outlets into a run, or to run a branch?

I tend to make splices in places that makes the best use of the wire and the least number of “junction only” boxes.

That said, there is no real difference as long as the wires are well anchored, the boxes are accessible. and the splices or devices are properly terminated. In your situation, one thing I might do is, since I need a box there anyway, actually have an extra outlet in the ceiling (but I am 6’5”). Use the same or larger wire size and there is no difference.


If I understand your issue correctly, what you're calling a french drain may actually more properly be called a drywell. A french drain pulls in groundwater and moves it somewhere else, while a drywell is a place to get rid of water underground. I think what you're talking about is something to pipe your downspouts into, and therefore I'd call it a drywell.

That said, one can construct a drywell in a similar manner to a french drain, by digging a trench and filling it with gravel and a perforated drain pipe.

The key difference to understand, however, is that if what you really want is a drywell to get rid of water, it may need to be bigger than you think. The rainwater doesn't immediately disappear into the ground surrounding your drywell, you need to provide some storage space so that you can hold the water while it can slowly leeches into the ground.

You may want to quickly estimate how much water you need to deal with. Estimate the square footage of roof drained by these downspouts, and then multiply by a rainfall amount (some sources say look up a 5-year 24 hr rainfall amount for your area, other sources say simply use 1"), to get an estimate of the volume of water that could be flowing out of these downspouts.  It adds up quickly!

If you simply dig a hole and fill it with crushed stone, you may need a big old hole, as crushed stone can have a void space of around 40%, so you'd need a hole 2.5 times bigger than your estimated roof runoff.

Therefore, you may want to consider an underground structure for your drywell, rather than simply filling a hole or trench with gravel.

One such product is made by NDS, called the Flo-well. It's a nice compact solution that can sometimes provide a good match for an individual downspout. You can stack them or daisy-chain them if you need more volume. Dig a hole, place the well, and backfill with gravel then topsoil. Simply plumb your downspouts into the drywell with PVC. The flo-well provides open space to hold lots of water, and has holes in its sides to allow the water out into the surrounding gravel and soil.

Or you could go with something even bigger if required, like some of the giant structures from Cultec that can hold up to 1200 Gal each, probably overkill for your application. These are like underground archways with open bottoms for the water to leech out of. Again, you'd dig a hole, lay a bed of gravel, place the chamber, and backfill with gravel then topsoil.

I have no affiliation with either of these suppliers, but have done some homework on this product space as I have a drainage issue of my own that needs solving on a tight, urban lot.

NOTE: If you are extra lucky and your property has some grade to it in just the right spot, it may be possible to simply run a pipe underground from the downspouts away from the house and have it come out the side of a hill to a place that you don't mind being flooded with rainwater. This is way simpler than a drywell. Just make sure to maintain positive drainage all along the pipe run (1/8" per foot or so).

image from www.askthebuilder.com


Bathroom Light Fixture with no stud or box

I found almost that exact same image behind a bathroom vanity light fixture that I took down to replace. Needless to say I was flabbergasted that such garbage workmanship would be hidden behind a fixture.

You should look very closely at what is just behind the place where the romex cable is coming out one hole and reentering the wall cavity at the slot on the right.

Mine looked exactly like that and there was a stud right behind that cable loop.

I opened up a hole to the right of the stud for a suitable metal electrical box. I then drilled a hole through the center line of the stud from side to side and worked the wire through the hole. I then mounted the electrical box to the side of the stud and brought the electrical cable into the box and secured it with the box clamp at the rear of the box. Now it is properly wired but I had to work at finding the proper lighting fixture that would cover up the messy slot in the drywall. (I would have patched and painted it but decided to wait till I give this bathroom a facelift remodel in the near future.


Temporary (multi-hour) voltage drop that seems instigated by running an appliance?

The issue was with the breaker at the service panel.

I replaced the breaker with a new one and since then we've not had any voltage drops.


Using automotive R134A in my refrigerator?

The only difference is the thread on the automotive is different, they made the change to prevent shop mechanics from using the wrong type of Freon. Both auto and hvac r134 are chemically the same. I can usually find the automotive 134 a bit cheaper but legally it requires a licence. This sounds crazy when you think that air horns, freeze spray and canned air dusters are r134 but to put in an AC system it requires a license where all those other uses just dump Freon in the atmosphere but that is the law.


How much gap is allowed between the door and striker plate

The two primary factors are latch operation and weather sealing (where applicable). 1/4" (6mm) is getting fairly large, but still within what I'd consider acceptable. It's hard to say without seeing it all in action.

Much more than that and I'd take your approach of shimming the hinges, but use some nylon or other non-biodegradable material in the case of an exterior door.

You could also surface-mount the strike plate, but this does look a bit less professional.

A less significant factor is the appearance of a large gap. Generally, as long as the gaps are individually uniform (parallel), they can be what they are. Varying gaps are what look sloppy.


When would you want/have/need to put in a post filter in an electrostatic air filter system?

The only reason or use I could see for a post-filter on an electrostatic would be to run a carbon filter for non-particulate odors and/or ozone (which can be a normal byproduct of electrostatic filter operation) reduction.


Trying to replace and make a 3-way dimmer switch work

The good news -- you can do this.

Contrary to my previous version of the answer (which mixed up which switch was paired with which dimmer), the 3 wire cable between the RH dimmer in the top image and the LH switch in the bottom picture means that you can do this without pulling wire.  Take the black from the 2 wire cable and connect it to the black screw on the dimmer.  Then connect the red and capped off black from the 3 wire cable to the brass screws on the dimmer, and your 3 way switch should work properly.  If it doesn't, post another question linked to this one with a photo of the light box.


Electric heat does not turn off when desired temperature reached

On programmable units There is a dead band or span adjustment in your thermostat it is usually something like +1, -2 this means the call for heat will continue until 1 degree above the set point and it won’t restart until 2 degrees below the set point. This is normally a programmable feature.
For example I might program +2 , -0 for winter or heat mode and +0, -2 for cooling. Some thermostats come pre programmed +2, -2 this is larger than I like it cost a little more to have a tighter span but gets expensive at +-0 because the system is constantly starting and stopping.
Some electronic units don’t have a span control you just need to know there is a difference. On mechanical thermostats this was hysteresis or the mechanical lag it can be adjusted but may not be within 1 degree.


Caulking bathtub, is there supposed to be a hole?

What it looks like you are getting out of the gap is the old grout and the caulk holding onto the grout. The grout when it was applied was the finish on the surface, but then the house dried out since it was new construction and caused some of the grout to loosen, so it was caulked at a later time. You are simply removing something that needs to be removed anyway. Clean it out very well, getting the old soap scum out of the gap so the new material will seal to the tub and wall and not to the soap scum. Let it dry thoroughly and caulk.


My sliding window is leaking air via the groove - is it fixable?

I ran into the same issue with my building's aluminum windows.

To fix it, I removed the window from the track and tightened the screws on the latching mechanism. This made a tiny bit of difference as it allowed the window to sit better on the track, and allowed the latch to pull the window closer to a full 'locking' position. While the window's out, you should clean out the track as well, since any kind of dirt in the channel will cause the window to sit off-line and cause air to leak through.

The other thing to check and/or replace is the pile weatherstripping on the exterior facing side of the slider, but make sure you get one with a fin strip (that's a bit of rubber running down the middle of the pile) since that blocks airflow more effectively. If your building is willing to replace the windows, great, if not, you can also press rope caulk into the leaky areas. I would advise against the plastic sheeting you mentioned, though, since it leaves a terrible residue on your sills and often removes the paint along with it come spring (though they are effective if nothing else works).


Is painting rough cut wood a reasonable way to smooth it a little?

Painting rough cut lumber will only smooth out the irregularities a very marginal amount. It will take many coats to smooth it out any significant amount. Plus, depending on how rough your rough cut lumber is, you may have trouble with adhesion.

I'd at least hit your wood with a 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to remove the roughest parts.


This is a DPST switch, but with one of the contacts normally open, as you'd expect, and the other contact normally closed.  It's a bit of an oddity as a result -- it could be used as a 3-way switch, but that'd be silly compared to a normal (SPDT) switch.


What's the "correct" way to install LED drivers for accent lighting?

I took a standard ATX power supply from a computer and took the 12V output to drive lights. I put it in a closet and ran romex through the way -- seems a bit strange to use such heavy wire, but it's (relatively) cheap, conforms to code for being in walls (most places), and reduces voltage drop.  I put the power supply (in a small computer box) on a switched outlet so the 110V is switched, which reduces zombie current draw when the accent lights are not in use.  IN my case I just fed a 110v run from the lights in a related area so the accent and regular lights go on and off together.  (The manufacturer's remote can also turn off, leaving the power supply on).

I do not suggest this is code compliant, merely one approach that functions.  Also, I feel a lot safer with a quality PC power supply than some of the cheap bricks, and much safer with romex in the out-of-sight runs than most cheap-LED-associated wiring.

Be sure to check the power supply to see its 12V structure, some carry full capacity on one bus, some have more than one to split the load, and you need to (for those) take care which outputs you use.


Is it okay to store bamboo flooring in the garage before installation?

Unless you live in a climate where you basically have your windows open most of the time and there is no heat or air conditioning then your flooring needs to be in your house 2-4 weeks (differs by wood type and climate).

So given your conditioned space in San Fran I would say that you need to move it in.  The wood needs to be in a close approximation to the installed environment.

I don't know your installer but I would be highly highly skeptical of his knowledge and abilities given the advise.  This is flooring 101.


What is it called when you increase the concrete floor (ramp it up) to avoid using a transition strip? What are the pros and cons of this approach?

Sometimes sloping the concrete is necessary to drain water or create a ramp. The concrete is usually mixed with fiber to prevent cracking and to keep from using wire or rebar. You don't want to just add a small patch near a doorway to create a transition point, as it will probably crack.


you can replace the split part. It requires a stack jack.  This is not real easy for a DIYer.  the procedure is to grasp the stack, cut out the bad part, jack the stack, put in couplings and replace the bad section.  You then have to check the boots or replace them.  this may be a job for a pro with the right tools.  sorry.......   good luck


How do I install a vanity that's higher than the mirror?

Is the mirror one piece or is it made of tiles?
Is it glued in place or supported by clips, brackets, or a frame?

If it is mounted (clips, brackets, or frame) carefully unmount it, have it professionally cut, and then remount it.  I strongly advise hiring a professional window or glass man to do this.

If it is glued but is made of tiles:

Locate a supply of identical tiles.
Have enough of the new tiles cut down and be sure to include some spares.
Carefully remove the tiles that will be partially blocked by the new cabinet.
Carefully glue the cut-down tiles in place.

If it is glued and is in one piece:

Do not try to cut it yourself!
If you find a glass man that claims he can cut it, be sure he is bonded and contracts to fully replace the mirror if he damages it.
Otherwise, leave the mirror uncut and...
Use sheetrock, plywood, a laminate, etc. to shim the cabinet out to where it is at least 1/16th away from touching the mirror.
Carefully caulk, frame, and/or trim for the best aesthetics.  Be sure that there is a water-tight seal to stop moisture on the mirror from dripping behind the cabinet.


What causes uneven floors and can they be fixed?

Although it is impossible to say for sure without seeing the floors in question, I suspect it is a simple case of poor construction practice. The basement floor is most likely over a concrete slab. The floor may not have been leveled with framing. You did not mention what type of flooring was there, but I suspect the tile or carpet was applied to an uneven base.  The upper story floor was most likely built long ago on the existing joists, with the same un-level results. In either case, the only way to level these floors would be to frame a new subfloor level, then install new flooring over a properly installed subfloor. There is no trick or shortcut to fixing situations like this. This can be an involved and expensive project, not a good DIY for amateurs.

As far as the fireplace is concerned, if the room in question was originally designed as a livable space, it is not uncommon to see a small fireplace. Before the days of central heating systems, many older homes (100 yrs ago) had multiple fireplaces. The concern by today's standards is if the assignment of flues is correct. By that I mean, how many and what type of combustible devices share a flue. There are strict rules on what fuels can share flues and an what elevation in a house. This is important as fumes or CO can invade through a flue from one device to another. Again, this would have to be inspected for safety.


It is fine for stucco to be in contact with the lumber.  But if you are stuccoing over the lumber, you will need to protect it with a wrap and then the wire mesh for the stucco to hold on to.


Get the installation white papers for the kind of vinyl flooring you're using and follow the instructions to the letter.  They should tell you exactly what kind of underlay to use on top of the subfloor if any.  For instance vinyl planking without a sticky side (not what you're getting by the look of it) needs no underlay, sealant or subfloor to function correctly as per the installation instructions.

As for sealing the wall surrounding the flooring, I assume that since you had carpet there this is a dry area of the bathroom and not required to be in direct contact with water.  You don't need sealant around the wall as the drywall in that area should be greenback/mold resistant anyway.  You can just trim, paint and caulk.

Additionally, you're going to need expansion gaps (~3/16") on all sides where the flooring meets a hard vertical plane in order to prevent buckling due to material expansion.  This gap will usually be covered by trim or quarter round which you will caulk the portion that meets the flooring to prevent the spread of any water you may get on the ground from getting out of the shower and whatnot.


Burning Rubber Smell From Drill Press Belts

A burning rubber smell comes from friction between the belt and something else. A well adjusted belt should not smell on break in.

Possibilities:

Belt rubbing on a pulley that's out of alignment (probably not since it's been checked)
Belt rubbing on rubber left behind from the previous belt (clean the pulleys)
Belt slipping (check and adjust tension if needed. As JPhi1618 said - check to make sure spindles are turning freely.)
Belt rubbing on something in the path of the belt (check for a clear belt path)

Be careful, things can break and fires can start when there is unwanted friction.


Can I use a 18AWG wire to connect a low current (LED) light to the ceiling?

I just installed 7 lights of an identical type.  Here are my thoughts:
First 18ga wire is adequate. !8 AWG is normally considered adequate for 10 amps in lighting circuits. You should not bury that wire under anything, as it is designed for free air use.  But for one fixture, drawing less than an Amp, it will not get warm.
Second, the connector on the light is firm, but designed for 14ga solid copper wire.  Stranded wires may not have the requisite stiffness to properly insert into the connector, and there is the risk you could have a "hair" of wire separating from the strand, which could cause a problem (short).
They do not have a provision for ground wires, and since everything is plastic except the mounting bracket, I simply tied my ground to the metal mounting bracket.
Note for anyone else, to mount these lights in a box, I found it necessary to drill an additional hole in the mounting brackets.  They appear to be designed for non-US markets, and while they will work fine, some things, such as hole spacing, are not ideal for mounting on common US boxes.
How are you planning on mounting this, and running the wire to it?


I am familiar with two basic control schemes for residential units:  (1) Relay logic (old school 24vac on/off), and (2) Communicating (direct digital control via serial communication).

I believe what you seek is any multi-stage furnace that is not exclusively a communicating furnace.  This type of furnace will have a W1 and a W2 for stage 1 and stage 2 heat, and might control the blower speed automatically or it might have multiple discrete fan speed selections labeled G1, G2, etc, which the multi-stage Nest should handle.

I say this based on a brief review of the literature online and I have never actually installed one of the multi-stage Nest thermostats.


Can I have splices in an electrical panel?

Yes, you can have splices in the panel to extend wire to reach breakers.

What you cannot do is have splices where a wire enters the panel, is then spliced to another wire that exits the panel.


How do I repair broken bathtub faucet handles?

Its likely the whole cartridge will need replacement. With it you will get a new handle stem.

This might be a sign to replace the whole unit.  If you have a three handle setup, a cover plate will let you upgrade to any single handle style.  If you go this route, be sure to get a tub filler spout WITH diverter (the single handle tub/shower valves usually don't have diverters.


There are two main ways of wiring a lighting circuit:

The wiring for the circuit goes to the switch. From there a live and a neutral are teed-off. The teed-off live is switched, and teed-off neutral unswitched, and then run from the switch to its relevant light fitting.
The wiring for the circuit goes to the light fitting. From there a live and a neutral are teed-off. The teed-off live for that fitting is then run to the switch and back, the teed-off neutral connects directly into the fitting. - This is the setup you have

It sounds like the new switch you've bought requires setup 1. There is absolutely no problem mixing these two setups. You could run a new cable from the fitting, taking the live and neutral together to the switch, and get rid of the existing cable to the switch.

Running the new cable may or may not be easy. In my house I can access the light fitting from above, as its in the loft. I can then find where the cable drops down into the wall to reach the switch, and feed a new cable through there (or tie it to the existing cable and pull through).


Why is this in my dryer? Can/Should I remove it?

It looks like you have a gas dryer, and if it is insulation that is, or was glued in, it needs to stay. Most likely the insulation is non flammable and it keeps other flammable items from catching fire.


Is a grounded/neutral wire (not grounding wire) required to be run to a subpanel that will supply only 240V (2-pole) devices?

Its fine, no different than the main feed to your house. NEC(1999) article 200 is  "grounded conductors" and 215 is "feeders".

  "200-2. General. All premises wiring systems, other than circuits and
  systems exempted by sections ... 215-7 ..., shall have a grounded
  conductor that is identified in accordance with section 200-6. ..."

and so

  "215-7. Ungrounded Conductors Tapped From Grounded Systems. Two-wire
  dc circuits and ac circuits of two or more ungrounded conductors shall
  be permitted to be tapped from the ungrounded conductors of circuits
  having a grounded neutral conductor. Switching devices in each tapped
  circuit shall have a pole in each ungrounded conductor."

Meaning that you need to use double pole switches and breakers. (that disconnect both wires, as opposed to common light switches that only disconnect one of the wires.)


Do you need special recessed LED housing for angled / sloping ceilings?

A housing can either take a bulb or a retrofit LED ring that sits on the end.  If you use a bulb (LED or otherwise) then the angled housing can be of benefit, by keeping the beam pointed in the downward direction.  However if you're using a flat LED ring, there's no benefit to using an angled housing, because it's going to sit on the slope anyhow.

If you're concerned about lighting the area in a downward fashion, you can either use an angled housing:

with a LED bulb in it:

or use a standard housing:

with what's called a "gimbal" fixture.  A gimbal fixture looks like this:

And will allow you to compensate for the slope in the ceiling, by pivoting the fixture inside the housing.


Romex exiting junction box just below 8 feet

Easy.  Cut up bits of 1x4 so you can fit them on the wall around the cable, so the cable goes between them.  Then cap it off with another scrap of 1x4.  The one-by dimension is ample to provide clearance for the cable.


In my opinion, I would put the wall back as it was.
Part of the whole charm of the barn look is the roughness, textures, cracks etc., the things that sounds like you want to fix. Even if you could get an "upscale" barn look by doing what the questions surround, would severely change the look you have now.
Gluing cracks will change the color of the wood, it will run and drip. Mixing sawdust in the glue will leave a mess on the surface, it never goes in the gap clean, and will require sanding. The planks have a great patina. Patina (aged look) is a color that can only be achieved by time, and is highly sought after. It can be faked, but is expensive. Sanding this patina will remove the saw marks and the patina and pretty much render the wood to an almost new condition. IN doing that you would be better and simpler in some ways to just install new wood planks. Shiplap is a big trend now.

When the appraiser discerned the type of building you had, there was no way to know how cut up the paneling was or what condition it was behind the drywall. One could only hope it is in good shape, well enough to salvage. What I see is where a window may have been filled in or a repair made a long time ago, or perhaps the builder ran short of material, or changed their mind about having a window there. It happens all the time.