How to hang a chair from the ceiling joists (with attic access)

Don't use an eye bolt! Anyone who swings in the chair, especially in a circular motion, will take the bolt right out of the nut, through the joist, and into the floor. How do I know? Because both of my kids managed to do this with two different hanging chairs.
There is a part which can be described as such:

A steel plate that attaches to the joist through drywall with four bolts. In the center of the plate is a swivel hook, to which you attach a latch.

The swivel part ensures that the swinging motion is localized and doesn't move an eye bolt, allowing it to unscrew itself.


Is a permit necessary to avoid any issues with future insurance claims?

You don't need to pull a permit for ordinary maintenance

As long as you can confine the scope of work to ordinary repairs and upkeep, you don't need to pull a permit for that.

What exactly that is may vary among jurisdictions.


What wood protection should I use for a kids swing set in the desert sun?

A small can of deck sealant should suffice.  Follow manufacturer instructions, applying with a 1" trim brush.


Why does my bathroom cold water faucet cut off while in use?

Typically with a blocked pipe, a small flow of water can get past the blockage and equalise the pressure both sides of the blockage. When a far away faucet is opened the water on it's side of the blockage flows out, giving an impression of a good flow for a short while (maybe a few seconds), however after that the flow rate is determined by leakage past the blockage. This can seem like a small trickle or may not be enough to really notice.

I have had this happen a few times due to sediment gradually accumulating in a filter in a pressure reduction valve. Cleaning the filter solves the problem for a year or so.

I would check all the valves and other devices upstream of the faucet one by one. Blockages often occur at restrictions like these.


Workmanlike manner is a really subjective term. It is a catch all for neat, orderly and following the rules. A lot of inspectors fail an inspection using that term when actually specific violations are numerous.  Common items such as not securing wires close enough to plastic boxes, crossbeaming, sagging cable, holes drilled too close to the edge of joists, lack of nail protection plates, bla bla bla.  Typically a lot of the look nice, finish up work can fall into this category. If your work looks neat, tight, and orderly, you should be fine. If the inspector finds some minor problems, thank him or her for pointing them out and if small enouth, fix them while they are still there. Debating with an inspector is futile and will invite a much more intense evaluation that could result in a lot more findings.  Ask them for advise and treat it like a learning experience.  Good Luck.


Any recommendations on joists for weight bearing?

68.57 Pounds per square foot if evenly distributed - call it 70 (or 75) and pull up a calculator (or drop by your lumberyard and have them run it on their I-joist software, which might well be the most affordable solution.) Or hire an engineer.

Underbuilt haylofts do have a tendency to demonstrate that they are underbuilt; so don't underbuild it.


Are cripple studs necessary for framing a door in a "decorative wall"

The cripples are typically a continuation of the 16" stud intervals. They make hanging drywall easier since an 8' or 4' length will fall in the middle of a stud on each end (with the exception of the cut end when your room isn't a perfect 4' increment). Like Shirlock says, they aren't required for non-load bearing walls (hardly anything is since the wall isn't load bearing), but as you remove parts like this, other details like the drywall and installing trim will become more difficult.


Can I plug a driver/transformer for 12v undercabinet lighting into the same outlet the OTR microwave is plugged into?

As a general rule, if an appliance is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit, then it will either have a single receptacle instead of a double receptacle or it will be hard-wired. So if the original stuff was installed correctly (not always the case, but we'll assume that is the situation) then any place you see an empty receptacle should be safe to plug in a small load.
From a practical situation, 12V undercabinet lighting likely uses very little power, and a microwave is typically used at high power only for short intervals, so the risk of an overloaded circuit is very low.
What I would not do is plug in a toaster oven or other high wattage appliance into that receptacle, because if you used it at the same time as the microwave then you could trip a breaker.


There are a lot of bad fabricators installing granite these days. I have seen everything from edges that are waxed instead of polished and tops that are dyed to make them look like a more expensive stone than the fabricator purchased. If they did a bad job there is no reason to believe any of it is done right.

Do the water test suggested above. It will tell you if it needs sealing. It likely does. I would also watch the edges. If they start to go dull in a few months then you really got taken. Polished edges will last a lifetime. Waxed edges a few months. Polishing takes about 15 minutes a foot with very expensive tools. Waxing takes seconds with cheap wax. This is only one example of many tricks to pass off bad granite countertops.

All granite countertops are not created equal. If you purchased from a guy with lawn sign working with only a cell phone as many today do you got what looks like a good price for a countertop but wait until you try and get warranty work. Good luck because if your installer did not know if it was sealed and you are already doing corrective work you are likely to be even more disappointed in the future as the top ages.


Should I run 240v for any supported appliances?

There's no need to do this for computers/networking gear/...
While the switching power supplies used in IT equipment are slightly more efficient when running on 240V vs when they are running on 120V, this efficiency difference is generally small enough that it can be disregarded as a practical matter.  As a result, I would simply provision 120V/20A circuits for equipment closets, office spaces, and the likes.
HOWEVER: there are spaces where this is a good idea
The above, though, is not universal advice in the sense that it is specific to IT equipment.  Shop spaces where fixed power tools are used, such as woodshops or metalshops, benefit greatly from having both 120V (NEMA 5) and 240V (NEMA 6) receptacles present; this is also something that's not beyond reason for a well-appointed kitchen, although most of the kitchen appliances that can take advantage of this are commercial types.
In any case, you don't need to pull extra circuits to have both 120V and 240V together...
One benefit of the North American split-phase system over pure single-phase distribution is the ability to use multi-wire branch circuits to provide twice the current/power sourcing capability of a single branch circuit while using 3/4ths the copper and generating half the heat compared to having two independent branch circuits, something that is especially useful when mains wiring is done using individual wires in conduit (vs. prefabricated cables).
While these are normally only used with 120V receptacles and fixtures connected line-to-neutral, the use of a common-trip two-pole breaker (which is the normal way one wires these any more) allows a mixture of 120V and 240V loads/receptacles on the same branch circuit, as per NEC 240.4(C) Exception 2:

(C) Line-to-Neutral Loads. Multiwire branch circuits shall supply only line-to-neutral loads.
Exception No. 1: A multiwire branch circuit that supplies only one utilization equipment.
Exception No. 2: Where all ungrounded conductors of the multiwire branch circuit are opened simultaneously by the branch-circuit overcurrent device.

This also permits the use of NEMA 5/6 combination duplex receptacles, such as the Leviton 5844.  These provide access to both 120 and 240V on the same yoke when fed by a properly wired multi-wire branch circuit, without having to resort to a dodgy adapter.
...but this comes with some caveats
However, the requirement for a two-pole common-trip breaker does pose a few caveats when arc and/or ground-fault protection is required.  First and foremost, if you have a GE panel, you cannot use this strategy on any circuit where arc-fault protection is required, as the current (Mod 3) GE AFCI breakers are not available in a two-pole common-trip configuration, only single-pole units that can be handle-tied for 120V-only or 240V-only service.  (If you can obtain a Mod 2 GE CAFCI used, you can do it that way, but those are likely to be relatively thin on the ground.)
Furthermore, in spaces where both arc and ground fault protection is required (right  now, only kitchens, laundry rooms, and bathrooms), you're forced to have a 2-pole arc-fault breaker in series with a 2-pole ground-fault breaker to protect these circuits, as 2-pole dual function (AF/GF) breakers are not available at this point in time, and appear unlikely to become available any time soon.  For an individual circuit, this can be accomplished using an arc fault breaker in the panel and a "spa panel" in-line with the homerun to provide the GFCI protection; however, if you are wiring several circuits this way, it's better to use a split-bus (albeit not rule-of-six) panel (such as a Siemens generator panel) to provide this series configuration, with a GFCI breaker replacing the normal utility feed breaker to the "generator" section of the panel and AFCI breakers in the "generator" section feeding the individual branch circuits.


EPS concrete is basically concrete with EPS beads and a few other things in it like latex paint.

The fact is, polystyrene melts at about 200 degrees F. The flash point of DIETHYLENE GLYCOL (which is at least a component of many such cans contain, along with other components) is 255 degrees. So it seems likely that a Sterno flame can easily melt, if not burn the EPS in your bowl. This is surely not a good idea! If it melts, it will surely be giving off some fumes at that point too.

I won't bother to look at when latex paint burns, but do you want it exposed to a flame source?

I'd suggest this is a poor idea.

If you really want to make a matrix that will be lighter in weight than pure concrete, there are surely some better things you can add to a concrete mix that will lighten it, while still not being a fire risk. A quick internet search just found hollow glass beads for sale at a low price in various places. And skip the latex paint in the mix too.

Edit:

I originally looked on ebay, under "hollow glass beads". What I found does look too expensive, usually hand made. Depending on how many you need, maybe buy some cheap costume jewelry necklaces, but you would need a few to make a big bowl. I would also check craft stores like Michaels, and I was told just the other day that there are stores that specialize in beaded crafts. So then I looked for hollow steel or aluminum balls. Wagner sells a package (25 count) of 1/2 inch steel balls, though I did not see a price.

Then I started thinking more out of the box (ok, out of the bowl.) As a woodturner, I could make a bowl completely out of foam (or balsa wood, which is also pretty cheap and light), by glueing up a block, then turning it into a bowl on a lathe. One could create this as a form, then covering the bowl form inside and out with a thin shell of pure concrete. That shell would absolutely be adequate insulation to prevent any problems. If you are not a wood turner, then I'd find a wood turning group. There are MANY of them around the country, probably one in any significant metropolitan area. Go to one of their meetings, then ask around for some help. I'd bet that at least a few people would happily turn a balsa wood bowl for you if you provided the wood. At worst, some pizza might work to grease the wheels.


can't find a 3uf.5uf,5uf 250vac 5 wire Ceiling Fan Capacitor what can I use instead?

you could use individual motor run capacitors. of 3, 5, and 5uF

4,5,5 is probably close enough, especially if the 3 is only used in the speed control circuit


How do I fix the cracks in my brick foundation?

If the cracks aren't new, then there's really nothing to 'stabilize' as that's already happened over the past 100 years.

If they are new, then you have bigger problems and need a structural engineer out there to figure out why your footers are sinking.

Assuming they are old cracks, if you don't have water problems, you don't really need to do anything with them. But if you do want to seal them, and you're going to cover them (so not overly worried about aesthetics) then a hydraulic cement product is what you are looking for such as


Can I put insulation under roof between joists

As heat (vapor) escapes up through the ceiling and insulation in the joist space, it turns from vapor to liquid when it reaches its “Dew Point”.  (You can google Dew Point. )

That moisture (liquid) will cause dryrot and mold if it is not dried out. The easiest way (and customary way) to dry this moisture out is by ventilating the space between the insulation and roof sheathing.

In order for ventilation to work, it has been determined that you need a 1” air space between the insulation and the roof sheathing. (See ICC Code R806.3.) Also, cross ventilation is recommend (soffit vents on both sides of your house or gable end vents).

The amount of venting is 1/150th of the area of the attic, unless you install not less than 40% and not more than 50% in the top one-half of the attic (gable vents or ridge vents) See ICC R806.2, then it can be reduced to 1/300th the area vented.

After you install the insulation in between the roof joists, the existing blown in insulation in the ceiling will not help thermal resistance. (However, it will provide sound control between floors.)


Can't turn off security light permenantly

It sounds as if the light is being controlled by a single 3-way switch. The hot lead is run to the common and two switched hots are run to the traveller terminals.

You could create a master switch by adding a single pole switch that interrupts the hot lead before it goes to the 3-way. You could expand the box holding the switch to a 2-gang type and wire the new switch with the existing hot lead and a short pigtail from its second terminal to the 3-way common.

You also could do the same with a double switch in the existing single gang box. Either a single pole/3-way combination or even a 3-way/3-way combination would work.

In this case, the pigtail runs from one terminal of the master switch (the single pole switch) to the common terminal of the 3-way. if you are using a dual 3-way, just leave one of the traveler terminals unused.

In either case, the white (neutral) and ground leads are left connected, just adding a pigtail from the grounds to the new switch.


What kind of joint is the best for joining wooden countertops?

The 45 miter will be your best bet into the corner. Aside from that, please do consider where you want your joints carefully. I would keep them separated as much as possible, yet not in an area where I am going to work at, unless, you are going to sand and finish the top in place and you are certain that you can get the joint relatively flat and smooth. In my opinion, where you have drawn them on your sketch is too much in one place and will draw your eye to that place, not in a good way. Unless you are like me and there will be crap all over the place anyway.... Set the small piece on the other end, that is if it is not going to be a problem there for some other reason.

To join them, I would use 2 products.

Biscuits,
 and a type of countertop fastener

which I do not know the name of, but you get the picture :).

Glue is always good too.

I made a sketch when I first seen your post , I thought this was an idea too, but it may make the corner piece way too big....


What do I need for a wall shelf that will support an aquarium?

Another thought you may not have considered - theres a door there that opens toward the shelf.

Please fit a permanent floor-mounted doorstop so it can never ever swing open and hit the shelf.  The impact could drop your aquarium and thats no fun for the fish or for whoever has to clean up all the water afterward.


Should it possible to remove the heat exchanger from my natural gas furnace?

Firefox, firebox who cares (it's just a typo). But why would you take the furnace apart to clean the evaporator coil. Does it really need to be cleaned. If really needs to be cleaned, there are service companies in business to do this type of work and to protect people from themselves. I and many others on this site have worked on furnaces and A/C units for many years and I don't think any of them have ever taken a furnace apart to clean an evaporator coil.  Please  call a licensed furnace service company to correct the  mistakes you are making and save your family from a pending disaster. If you do not know what you are doing PLEASE PLEASE call for help.


When you upgrade to a permanent pool each section of the galvanized wall has to be attached to the bonding wire. This means the bond wire has to be run after the permanent wall sections are installed since it will run through the bracing for the wall. Plus, the excavator will probalby pull your exsting wire out while digging for the permanent pool.

Given the existing pool doesn't have to be bonded, I would just wait until you put in the permanent pool.

Good luck!


As others have pointed out, resale value of any particular feature depends on who you are selling to. In my mind seeing an electric fireplace would trigger the following thoughts: "Looks temporary and cheap. What other things did they skimp on? How much would it cost me to deal with these things down the road?". But obviously not everybody is like me -- other people might be thrilled to see this thing -- study your target demographic.

Another important aspect is that making one's wife happy for


Should drywall be hung horizontally or vertically?

Horizontal:  Pros will fit top piece to ceiling first and cutoff bottom piece for a 1/4 to 1/2 gap at floor.  The tapered joint is easy to fill.

You can also get a tapered butt joint by hanging the butt ends between studs and using a floating backer with a depressed center area that forms the "butt taper".  They are available commercially or can be homemade. This is the easiest way to get a "dead-flat" ceiling (or wall) when only the best will do.


What can be used to fill holes on top of a lamp fixture?

You have to be careful here, because it's possible that those holes are there for ventilation, as John said.

So instead of trying to seal them completely, the absolute most you should do is cover them with some kind of mesh which will have holes small enough to keep out the flies but large enough to allow air flow.

A metal screen mesh - the kind used in making window screens - would be my choice for this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Phifer-36-in-x-100-ft-Brite-Aluminum-Screen-3000031/100614699
^^ one possible source

I recommend against vinyl or fabric which might add an insulating value that you should avoid.

To install, cut the mesh down so that it will cover each hole with a bit of an overlap and use a very thin bead of glue all the way around each hole to ensure that the screen is sealed over the hole.


How do you achieve this stairway 'chaser' effect with an LED light strip?

Here is the website that the video came from.

tinker-fun.com/DigitalLEDStairlighting

Note that this DIY project requires electronics and software knowledge. The website has fairly detailed hardware instructions. The designer has not posted the full software yet. Pieces of the software are available from various open sources.


Can blue (lightweight) drywall compound be used for all coats?

You can use either all the way through.  I have personally used both all the way through more than a few times and have mixed.  There are generally some differences.

the lightweight end mix is thicker, meaning that the regular can actually be better for a final coat since it goes on thinner
the lightweight is easier to sand but I hardly sand... so this hardly ever helps me
I personally think the lightweight dries out faster
lightweight does scratch and dent easier due to less density

Pros will use the regular since they can use a "less fluffy" mix that feathers easier (with little to no sanding).  But I could definitely see why a person with less experience would do the first two coats with regular and last two with lightweight.

Answers to your questions -

You are both a little right/wrong.  If I had to choose I would pick him.
If he knows what he is doing he doesn't sand much and doesn't need lightweight.
I answered these above.  The marketing for the lightweight is for the novice DIYer that hates to spend hours sanding...


Assuming the thermostats are working, you may be getting residual heat once the thermostat turns off.

Do the pumps have speed controls? Many pumps have LOW, MEDIUM, and HIGH settings. A lower setting may avoid spikes in temperature.

Also, many pumps have mixing valves near them that control the temperature of the water being sent to the radiators in that zone. If you have selective zones that are too hot, you may be able to temper (in this case, lower) the water going to that zone.


Conduit
Any wires below a certain height need to be protected. In a typical wood studs + drywall setup, that can be running the wires inside the wall, protected with metal plates in certain locations. However, with a block wall you will run the wires outside the wall, which means running the wires through conduit. Once you are using conduit, you can run the wires pretty much any way you want to, as the conduit protects the wires wherever they go. A few things to keep in mind:

You definitely want to use individual wires, not cable, as that will be much easier to push through conduit.
There are limits on how many turns in a section of conduit. That makes it easier to pull wires through, but is less of a concern with a very short run - but you do have to follow the rules.
If you are using this for an electric car charger, you may want to upsize for a future larger charger. The breaker and receptacle need to be sized to match each other and to match the specifications of the charger. The wire can be larger to support a larger charger in the future. On the other hand, since you will be using conduit, you can always replace the wires later relatively easily.
You may need GFCI protection. In this case (unlike 5-15 and 5-20), the breaker is the place to do it. As noted in comments by others, it looks like GFCI is a requirement in a garage only for < 150V - i.e., your typical 120V 15A and 20A receptacles but not required for 240V (dryer, car charger, etc.). (I'm not a professional, and I don't have a garage, so this isn't something I'm that familiar with.)


Knowing where the water lands gets you in the area, but what you really need to know is where the water came from.  Is the tank cracked, is the supply line failing, is there a bad connection on either end of the supply line, or is the valve itself going.

If the tank is cracked, you'll have to buy a new one, and it's a large project if you're not used to working on basic plumbing jobs or are skirmish around an open toilet.

A bad supply line can be easily replaced and it's even easier if it's just the washers.

A bad valve may just have some dirt or buildup in it that will be fixed by opening and closing it once or twice with water running through it (an empty toilet tank).  Though keep in mind any dirt may then get in the toilet valve and could cause it to run slowly until you clean it out.  If that were to happen, just post another question.  It could also be the packing material in the valve, which I've never touched on this type of valve.  If that's the case, you may be able to minimize it by opening the valve all the way.  If the valve is too far gone, you'll likely need a blow torch and solder to replace it.  This can be a DIY job, but if you get in over your head, the water for the whole house will need to be shutoff until you can get a plumber out.


How should I paint a stain on a white wall without having to repaint the entire wall?

First, you should fix the source of the stain. If this is water damage, it will reoccur until you stop the water. Then clean the surface, apply a primer, and then some matching paint. To get matching paint, remove a small chip of paint you'd like to match and have the store give you a custom mix based on your chip. When applying paint, you should feather it into the rest of the wall so that any transitions become difficult to see. Note that most people would repaint the entire wall since it isn't much more work and the result looks even better.


What is the best way to stop tiny ants from entering my home?

You have to stop them at the source. Use baits that ants will gather and take back to their nest, or follow the trail back to the nest and Raid the entire trail + nest.

I've also been known to put a pesticide in my lawn and flower beds once or twice a year to keep them from getting near the house. I try to make a 10' perimeter around the home.


Can I paint over a stain on a laminated cabinet?

Most any surface can be painted with the proper prep and paint. Before I can recommend the right product, can you answer these questions:

What kind of laminate do you have?  White foil, melamine, Formica, wood veneer?

What is it stained with?


Drilled holes too wide for drywall anchors- how to fix?

This is very complicated, and I'm hoping that you'll stick through all of the steps with me. ;)

Go to the store.
Get bigger anchors.
Return home and install bigger anchors.

(No, really, that's the answer. You can't patch the drywall and put anchors in; the most you could hope for would be re-drilling holes near to your anchor, but you really risk cracking the drywall if you do that. I'd just get bigger anchors.)


Are BTU Calcs reliable -- should I oversize my system?

I am from Pennsylvania and have been retired for many years so let me give you my thoughts on how I would size your system. If you choose the smaller 2 ton system the only time you would notice that it may be undersized would be on extremely hot days when the inside temperature would rise above the set point. I have always thought that a smaller system would be better overall since it would better control the humidity during the milder days of a normal cooling season. On an extremely hot day, the inside temperature may rise slightly but that is a trade-off I could live with. I would ask my neighbors the size of their units and compare the construction of their homes to mine to get a good idea of the needed A/C size.
This is an addition to my above statement, Years ago, we would up-size the "A" coil to the next size, say a 3.5 ton coil with a 3 ton A/C unit. This would yield slightly more A/C cooling capacity and would give the coil more surface area to remove more humidity. Now to be honest, I have not sized or installed an A/C unit in many years so I would have to consult an HVAC company to make sure that I am correct in my statements. my 2 cents


Is it possible to reduce the diameter of a drill bit?

I would suggest that you look a little farther. Drill bits are available in many more sizes than you mentioned. One big supplier on-line, McMaster Carr shows available metric sizes for heat resistant cobalt steel jobbers drill bits in all of the following metric sizes:

If you can find access to a supplier that has drills on the numbered gauge scale or the lettered scale they cross reference to metric sizes as shown here:


Is it okay to use rain to rinse off a deck after applying deck cleaner?

No it’s not the same. Getting it “wet” isn’t the same as “rinsing it off”.

Boards are not perfectly flat. They cup, twist, have small crevices, etc. and will “hold” rain water. Rinsing the boards off will “wash” residue, particles, etc. away.


Will a 1500VA autotransformer do the job for an appliance with 13A and 120V?

You wouldn't starve your device. You might cause the transformer to run a little warmer than normal but probably not by a measurable amount. Although transformer current is also limited by the magnetic field in the core, this limit won't be so close to the rating that you should be concerned.

The rating plate may not be this clear but I strongly suspect that it's not that your appliance draws 13A, but that it's fused at 13A, drawing less. Initial current may be another matter especially if most of the load is a motor.

If I already had the transformer I'd try it (but maybe measure the current). If I was buying the transformer I'd probably go for the next size up if possible


How do I fix this wiring to properly run LED lights? (More details/products added)

Romex is not supposed to just stick out of the wall.  Any in-wall wiring is only supposed to connect to out-of-wall wiring through a junction box.  The cleanest way to do that is to put in an electrical outlet.
You can get retrofit junction boxes that just hold on to the drywall, which makes it quite easy to add an outlet.

(source: homedepot.com)
Also, those power supplies may be way overkill.  How much lighting are you planning to install?  I just installed about 8 feet of strip LED lights and it's using about 2 watts.  If the power supply is over-rated by 10 times, it's wasting power just sitting there turned on.


Is my Heat pump and gas furnace installation incorrect?

The tech made it sound worse than it is. It's not in the wrong air flow, just the wrong order, so moving the pipe will not help. It's a fair sized duct, not a pipe.

There is a restriction in at least the International Mechanical Code about heat exchanger coils being before the furnace. It is because in cooling mode, the resulting condensate can be corrosive. In heating mode the physics involved are not really a problem, but that doesn't change the code.

There is an exception to this requirement, it is OK to configure the system this way if the appliances are listed for such configuration. You would need to obtain the installation instructions and see if this is indicated as an option.

The only practical way to fix this if you cannot prove the current configuration is allowable is to relocate the heat pump coils upstream of the furnace.

Note that the direction of airflow is the criteria for placement, not above or below.


Toilet leaking, possibly related to loose screws?

Verify that the condensation is or isn't the cause of the water pooling at the toilet base, first. Placing a paper sheet under the tank will show if the water is dripping.
Also check that the supply hose at both ends are not leaking. Make sure the vale is seat tightly by tightening the nut at the bottom (outside) of the tank.
Also check that the tank is secure to the bowl. Tighten the (2) nuts on the underside of the tank.
I found using a flashlight helps locate any leaks around the bowl and tank. If none are found chances are the leak is due to the wax ring not sealing and you'll need to pull the toilet and install a new ring.
You may want to remove the toilet anyway to re-attach the brass bolt that has come loose. The toilet flange may have broken where the bolt is placed.


How to remove thermocouple from this manifold door?

I was able to get it off by using a hammer and a screwdriver. I hammered a flathead screwdriver onto the end of the clasp-list piece. The clasp is intended to be inserted underneath the black holders and thus can be removed by pulling/pushing it out the opposite direction.

Here is an image of where the screwdriver should be placed to hit off the U-shaped clasp. This is looking at the same place on the second image of the original question but turned upside down.


How much paint do I need to apply to a new Shurline roller at the beginning of a paint job?

Shurline roller covers are a mid range quality cover, but not bad and should do the job fine. I like to use Purdy White Cloud covers for final coats.  If you are getting lots of ridge lines, that usually indicates that you are pushing too hard on the roller and trying to stretch the paint. Don't be afraid of loading the roller, obviously, you don't want it to be dripping, but don't work too much out of the roller before you start to apply the paint.  If you find yourself pushing harder to transfer color, then you need more paint on the roller.  Also do smaller sections at one time, not much more than a 4ft by 4 ft. Cover an area wall to wall one side to the other, then make one continuous long stroke over the entire length softly to even out the paint and remove ridges.  Keep in mind, especially with cheap ceiling paints, the first coat always looks spotty and should improve with second coat.


I'm not familiar with what moving wires and twisting "it" (what?) could mean. But I read there was a spark which should put you on alert. Some connection is no longer fixed. Sparks can cause fire! You don't know what's going on there and obviously you don't know how to handle this situation.

Turn off the fuse or breaker or whatever this is called and find a professional to see this ASAP. An electrical expert looking at that is cheaper than a burnt down house.


What do the 32 elements in a "32 element digital aerial" refer to?

Yes- it the number of rods sticking out of the main antenna. 16 on one side 16 on the other side.

These rods help remove ghosting, provide a clearer overall signal.

They all have their own purpose and lengths are very precise and specific. These should not be bent, extended, shortened or connected to anything else in any way will cause poor signal. Pigeons and birds do not affect reception as they do not cause direct induction of the circuit.. but a fat bird can bend the antenna and cause some issues.

Even though that is the concept it does not always refer to any exact number. Sometimes 3 spokes can be counted as 1 element because they act a single "element"

It will not have anything to do with number of channels- this depends on your region, the version of the set top box (old Freeviews cannot pick up many new channels) best use the FreeView HD ready boxes for best compatibility.

Hope that helps you out.


How can I connect a zwave switch that requires a neutral to 3 way box?

If I understand your description, here is one way to alter your wiring:

Basically you use the existing white wires to extend the neutral node everywhere. Use the black wires to extend the unswitched hot all the way to the Zwave. Use the red wire in the third leg to bring the switched hot back to the first two lamps, which have their hot sides connected with the other black wire in the second leg.

For the last lamp on the right, disconnect it from its breaker supply and cap off the supply cable. Then re-use its former switch cable as a switched loop now powered from the Zwave. Check the total load on the breaker that supplies the box on the left, as you are adding one lamp to it.

As you see, you have more wires than you need. Cap all abandoned wires with small wire nuts. Don't just clip them short, I did that once and got a rocket from the inspector.

I have omitted the ground wires (the bare copper) but of course you will not.

Please allow me to express my extreme gratitude to you for providing me with the opportunity to draw yet another wiring diagram.


Single-lever shower faucet - no warm water; just hot/cold

Yes a bad cartridge can be the issue.

I speak from experience, you may want to forgo buying said cartridge until you take it apart and inspect the valve and parts.

Often times pieces of plastic, rock, minerals, bad sweat 'balls' and other contaminants can get in there and bind the mixing valve in the cartridge.

Also, if you find it is cracked, warped, or otherwise damaged, you might want to get the replacement from a reputable parts supplier. I was stunned to see that Home Depot was selling all plastic and Kohler OEM part was 90% metal (OEM, pronounced as separate letters, is short for "original equipment manufacturer").

I tried the Home Depot part to no avail. The OEM part worked and continued working at least for 8 years until I sold the place.


List of possible causes and fixes:

Insufficient airflow.

You have identified this issue but not the cause.
1) Take all air filters out of the system. Give the system 30-40 minutes and see if this fixes the issue.
2) Ensure all vents are fully open.
3) Verify and/or adjust the cooling blower's air speed. WARNING: Turn the power off to the HVAC before doing that. The only way to verify or adjust the speed is to get the manual and find the table that lists the dip switch settings. Somewhere on the circuit board under the cover of your air handler there will be a tiny block of dip switches that control various things like the blower's speed for cooling and heating. A lot of shady service men will set this too low and continue to charge you for service calls. Then there is the group that doesn't even know it exists. ugh.. If you do change it set it to the middle-high setting. Usually there is low, medium-low, medium-high, and high.
Leaking freon.

You might have a tiny pin hole in the copper some where. Your service guys indicated this was ok. If you trust them then this is not the issue.
Copper tube is not covered with insulation.

Go to the box store now and get some black "pipe insulation" where the copper tubes are located and then cut it to cover the tube. This is a four minute job and will at least prevent the tube from freezing; which can damage your system by the way.
You condenser coils are ineffective because they are full of debris like grass and dirt.

The condenser is the big unit outside and if its clogged with dirt it will not allow the freon to release its captured heat from your house. You can fix this yourself by either spraying the coils with a water hose or by renting a pressure washer that allows you to add soap to the water slowly. This happened to me last year because of grass clippings and dirt build-up and this can happen to anyone regardless of the age of the HVAC system.
1) Make sure you spray from the inside out. You must take the cover that holds the fan off and the shroud/cage off too. Why? Because if you spray from the outside towards the inside your just pushing the debris further into the coils possible lodging it in there forever.
2) If you go for the pressure washer DO NOT get too close with the nozzle. If you put too much pressure on the coils they will fold and you'll ruin your unit. Pressure washers come with various sized nozzles and you should use the biggest nozzle first and if it isn't working then move your way down to the next smallest nozzle. Bigger nozzle = less force. Either way you need to get some soap mixing with the water at a good pressure in order to clean the coils. Its best if you take the shroud off so you can get to every square inch of the coils.
Your compressor or fan is not turning on.

1) Check the wires that run to your unit. A lot of times there is no cable management for these wires and they are just dangling in the elements as they run from your house's foundation to the unit. They can easily be cut by a weed-wacker. Re-connect/solder if this is the case. Make sure you use some heat shrink tubing to protect the connection from the elements.
2) Your relay switch is broken. Lots of times small critters crawl into the relay and get electrocuted when the relay kicks in causing a small explosion that's powerful enough to crack and melt the plastic relay and the metalic parts just enough that it stops functioning. The easiest thing to do there is get a replacement. Service guy should have already checked this but who knows if yours did..
3) Your compressor has failed. Seek professional advice.
4) The fan has failed. Seek professional advice or look at potential wiring issue.


How do I stretch carpet during reinstallation after replacing padding?

Rent (or buy) a carpet stretcher.

Here is a google search for carpet stretchers.


Problem with my Mendota Seabrook Model D-30 Direct Vent Gas Insert

A non-working pilot light that doesn't remain lit could have blockage in it's line, but most likely at it's orifice where the gas pathway is narrowest.
If the main burner ignites and burns,but than shuts-off than it could be the thermo-couple needs replacing. First make sure the top 1/3rd of the thermo-couple end is positioned directly in the pilot flame otherwise it wont send the electric signal that is generated by heat to the gas valve to remain open.
I'm not sure all heaters have this saftey feature, but if your exhaust vent draw is not adequate (that is there is blockage) the heater may be sensing this and as a precaution shutting off the gas flow.
Lastly, and i find this to be a common problem, check/replace the thermostat. If it's a basic (2) wire model remove it's face to expose the wires. Should be (but not always) a Red and White. You can jump these by bridging them with a similar sized wire. The heater should ignite (make sure the pilot is working first).


How can I repair a sticking temperature gauge on heating valve?

It is possible to replace those gages... The most important step will be to make sure the system is off and full dis-pressurized before you try to remove the old gage.  @PeterLoron is correct that the brass screw in thingy on the top (technical term) is for releasing pressure. You can find replacement valves in a variety of on-line stores such as: here, here, or here.  When you remove your thermometer from the line, the back should look like below:

(source: pexsupply.com)  .

These valves come in a variety of sizes and different thread patterns and in a few cases, if when you look in the back you cannot see the hex shape to get a wrench on in the back, a few are even soldered in (you may need some help to replace this type if you're not familiar with soldering, they can be touchy).  You may decide to replace it with a temp/pressure gage as well.


What alternative methods exist to correct a belly in a clay sewer line?

The best option that I can think of would be to have the sewer lined.  This company is simply the first Google search result I found:
http://www.dontdig.com/drainlining.php
The premise here is that a flexible liner is inserted into the pipe (usually using air - think of it as turning a sock inside out) and then the liner is hardened in place (water activated? resin?). The new liner will bridge any cracks or breaks in the pipe as well as any gaps in the joints.
I would also suggest actually getting the section of drain in question inspected...you will really want to know what the true problem is before deciding on the proper corrective action.


Large gap around new toilet due to improper floor installation

I ended up getting this fixed in what I suspect is the only way it would get fixed - I had the floor fixed.  I was planning on doing it myself but when the toilet started leaking a bit (presumably because of some residual rocking due to the uneven floor) I finally just hired someone to come out and fix it quickly and correctly.

The toilet was conveniently located in a small alcove, maybe 4'x4' (wall on one side and the back, open in front, and a 3 foot wall on right).  This made it easy to pull up the toilet, pull up a minimum of floor (about 8 "planks" total), and properly cut the floor so that it fits snugly around the toilet flange.  The toilet was then reinstalled normally, and it looks perfect.  If I had more time it would have been a very easy DIY project.  Fixing the floor probably didn't take more than an hour total.


How to bridge a gap between two countertops?

The easiest way to do this is buy a piece of 1x3 lumber.   Cut a piece to go across the back and screw to wall (predrill your lumber).   Put a piece in each side and screw to cabinets.   You do not have to make your sides the full length - you can hide the ledgers and make the counter look floating.

If you know your counter material you can deduct that to get the height of the boards you are drilling in so your counter matches flush on both sides.  After your ledgers are done you can glue or screw the counter down or even use finishing nails depending on counter material.   b

This is a very non-invasive method that will cost you $5-6 in lumber and 6 screws plus a little wood glue.   This will look better and won't sag and will assure that counter meets up well with existing tops.


How do I apply foam board insulation behind a new recessed shelf in an exterior wall?

First of all, recessed shelving in exterior walls is not a great idea. You won't actually gain much space and the shelves will infringe on the space available to place insulation, run electrical lines, etc. I'd prefer doing this in an interior wall, or only on an exterior wall in a house with much thicker walls.

But if you want to proceed, here's how.

The black fabric sheet is probably tar paper. Your house is probably one of many in the bay area that for some bizarre reason was built with no structural sheathing and instead, tar paper and wood lath+stucco right over the studs. To insulate such walls without causing many terrible problems requires special attention to detail. Don't put in any dedicated vapor barriers. Almost no houses actually need them and they usually cause far more problems than they solve.

In your case, rigid foam boards are actually a reasonably good choice, provided you always follow these guidelines:

Leave a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the foam and the tar paper--very important! This is an air gap to promote drying.
install the foam board such that the foil side is facing the tar paper. The foil side is a radiant barrier, and when it faces an air gap, it works and gives you a little better performance, especially in hot weather.
Scrupulously caulk or spray foam the edges of the foam board to the studs.

The foam board you have chosen is EPS--expanded polystyrene. It has about R-3.8 per inch. So if the boards are one inch thick and you install no other insulation, you will be adding about R-3.8 to the sections of the walls that are between the studs. If you did this for your whole house, assuming that 25% of the wall is actually studs @ R-1.2/inch, that would give your whole wall about R-3.9 (1.2*3.5*0.25)+(3.8*1*0.75), which is still really low. I would advocate using thicker foam or filling the remainder of the cavity between the foam and the new drywall with more insulation. Fiberglass or mineral wool batts or simply more foam would all be DIY options.


I have a oven-induction stove combi ...

The Netherlands uses a 16A Type F Socket which can supply up to 3.68 kW of power.

An oven + induction stove normally need more power than that. For example, some are rated at 12 kW with a 32A fuse (meaning you cant have every element running at full power all at the same time).

In the UK an oven and hob would be on a dedicated 32A circuit permanently hard-wired by an electrician with no plug or socket. This is not regarded as a portable appliance.

Check the manual supplied with the item and find out how much current or how much power it actually needs.

Ideally you should consult an electrician.

In the UK, for example, you need to carry out "diversity" calculations for the circuit which take into account the likelihood of various types of loads being used concurrently.

  ... which has a 4 pin plug

Posting a photo of that plug would have helped readers better understand what you need help with.

The only European 4-pin power plug I know of is the IEC 60309 400V, 16A 4-pin three-phase plug. However that is an industrial plug used for three-phase motors. You'd never find one attached to an oven + hob combination intended for use in a home.

If it is a USA NEMA 14-50 plug, it may be intended for a split-phase 60Hz supply which is not available in Europe (outside US military bases).

If so you'd need to ask the manufacturer if the appliance can be used on the type of electrical supply available to you (probably a 230V single phase 50 Hz but possibly a three-phase 50 Hz system)

I believe some US ovens use 240V for the heating elements and 120V to drive the control circuitry. Your most economical solution for anything of that sort that cost less than $1000 is to take it to the nearest recycling centre, then go and buy a 230V single-phase replacement.

  this is the model I have

The manual for the Indesit I6VV2A(W)/UK Cooker contains these instructions:

So the cooker is not supplied with a cable and plug. It should be hardwired to am electrical circuit that matches the rating plate. I expect it needs a 230V 32A dedicated circuit with a two-pole isolation switch accessible on the wall near to it. In the UK it would be connected through a Fixed Connection Unit (FCU) not using a plug. Things may be different in the Netherlands so I would suggest consulting an alectrician.

You cannot separate the hob from the oven or disable the hob in this Indesit 16VVA2.

  Can I somehow make that kind of connection using mutiple normal power sockets?

No. Absolutely not.


What type of screws should I use to attach a sign to fiber cement siding?

Just use ordinary wood screws.
Beneath the siding should be 3/8" or 1/2" sheathing. That is what the screws will really bite into.
Just make sure your screws are long enough to go through the sign and siding and have at least 1/2 of length beyond that. If you're concerned about water penetration squirt a little bit of caulk in the hole before placing the screw, but doing nothing is probably fine too


How to get a straight line on plastic guttering

The gutter is as wavy as it is partly because not enough hangers were used initially. Vinyl requires more support than steel. Now that it's warped you'll have a hard time straightening it effectively. It's also wavy simply because it's vinyl, which is soft.

Add more hangers and replace the worst sections. Consider replacing it all with steel if you want a truly straight gutter.


Can't get boiler to stop heating! It's 80 degrees in the house

If this is a hydronic heating system using wax zone valves, which act both as water valves and as thermostat, these sometimes fail in the "on" position. If that is the case, disconnect one of the wires from the switch.
That said, as @Ecnerwal states, there is a serious issue with wiring if the boiler still fires with the safety switch "off". Is there perhaps another shut-off switch??


This looks to be an interior door. The best way to fix this is to take off the door casing trim at the latch side on both sides of the door opening. Then using opposing pairs of tapered shims sticking in between the door frame and the adjacent stud you pound in the shims so that the lower portion of the door frame is crowded over closer to the door. I would use at least three or four sets of shims to move the frame out in a uniform manner.

Before starting this make sure the striker plate screws are not long ones that go all the way into the stud. If so remove them before using the shims.

After the shims have moved the frame over then you may need to add additional finish nails through the face of the door jamb through the shims and into the stud to hold things in the new position. After that you can work at replacing the casing trim.

I notice from your picture that the bottom hinge side of the door looks like it has no clearance. This may be due to the fact that the hinges were inset too far into the door and / or frame. If this is the case it is a good bet that this is part of the reason for the excessive gap on the door latch side. You may want to look into this and see if shimming out the lower hinge (and possibly also the center one) to see if this would fix the gap problem on the other side of the door. If so that would make a simpler solution than removing the casing and shimming the frame on the latch side.


Is it safe to replace a 15 amp GFCI outlet with a 20 amp GFCI outlet?

If the wiring is 12 awg it is safe.
I caution folks that want to upsize parts to check the wiring because sometimes a breaker was upsized to prevent un wanted tripping.
A 20 amp GFCI really doesn't provide any thing that a 15 amp will except the ability to plug in a 20 amp device. When was the last time you saw a 20 amp plug on an appliance? They are out there but rare and the 20 amp costs more.
Note they both trip at ~5 ma fault current.


Would applying silicone grease to an EPDM seal/gasket be helpful or hurtful?

Overall I don't think the grease would hurt but may have made the repair more challenging; greasing the seal likely would have improved the watertightness, but also may have made it more difficult to install correctly (the seal needed to sit in a groove and be slightly stretched).  It also would have added a slight chance of grease getting onto the clothes.  Considering that the original seal was ungreased and still watertight after 8 years I decided the risk wasn't worth it.

PS) In case anyone else is doing this repair... After bolting the drum together I was extremely alarmed that the two halves didn't seat together cleanly.  The seam was tight at the bolts, but in between the bolts there were gaps of more than 1/16th of an inch--O was sure I'd pinched the seal and almost took it back apart.  Thankfully I found a few high res photos and videos and it appeared this is normal.

So, if possible, take photos of this seam before disassembling it.  Also, be sure to clean the channel this seam sits in very well.


Where should I expect to find the trap for my in-wall washing machine drain?

It's going to be below the opening in the wall - most commonly, directly below, which means that if you pull out the washer drain hose and insert a long, slightly flexible rod, you should feel  it hit bottom in the trap, and can make a mark to measure where the trap is with respect to the opening in the wall.

If you are concerned that it might be an elbow rather than a trap, be sure the rod is dry and wash has not recently been done so you can see (or not see) the waterline of the trap on the end of the rod.

And, ultimately, you can always rip open drywall and repair it (an unfortunately common method the way services are installed in houses.)

Personally, I'd suggest giving a try to leaving it where it is, if you have not - there's some sort of cultural tendency to put laundry in the basement, as far from where it's generated and stored as possible. It's worth questioning, and saves a lot of hauling if it's near where most of the sheets, towels, and clothes are used and stored. If moving the machine, I'd suggest leaving all the plumbing in place and putting a test plug in the drain opening, rather than removing the plumbing - a future owner of the house might appreciate it, and it's less work.


How should a GFCI be installed according to the NEC?

The NEC isn't the right place to look for this stuff
The reason you couldn't find anything that answered this question in the NEC is stated right up front in NEC 90.1(A) (quoting from the 2014 edition, italics mine, italicized text new in 2014):

90.1 Purpose.
(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is
the practical safeguarding of persons and property from
hazards arising from the use of electricity. This Code is not
intended as a design specification or an instruction manual
for untrained persons.

Instead, you want to look at the installation instructions that the manufacturer provides for a given GFCI device.  This is enshrined in NEC 110.3(B):

(B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment
shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

However, I'm not sure if that's a sufficient answer for your quiz.  If it's not, most receptacle and deadfront devices do install similarly -- your input conductors terminate on to the LINE-side screws (black/brass is hot and silver is neutral, as usual), while loads downstream of the box can either be fed from the LOAD terminals if they need protection or from pigtails off the LINE terminals if they don't.  Grounding and pigtailing is the same as a standard receptacle otherwise.  Breaker-type GFCIs install like a breaker, but have a pigtail or clip that attaches to the neutral bar, and then an extra lug for the load neutral to land on (if you try to wire the load neutral to the neutral bar, the GFCI won't ever reset as it won't be able to "see" the current returning back from the load).
As to testing? There's one correct answer, and that's to use the TEST button on the device.  This creates a path from load-hot to line-neutral (or vice versa) through a current-limiting resistor that is a "controlled leak" for the GFCI to sense and trip on.


How to give ventilation/exhaust to an inner toilet without exterior walls?

Having a vent on a powder is nice but not required.  Since that room will not be producing high humidity the air technically doesn't require venting.  If the home is already built, that is why it most likely doesn't already have one (track housing is almost always built just to code; if the code doesn't require it, it will not have it).

If the house is not built yet, just ask for a vent to be added to the plans.  It can be vented to roof (if there is a roof directly overhead).  It can also be vented to the side of the house, vent line will have to run in the cavity between floors.

If the house is already built, your options are limited.  If there is attic over head, you can run a new vent easily.  Otherwise you will have to wait to your next remodel to run a vent.


Can I use a power gable fan and ceiling louver vents to pull cool air into my house?

I had something like this growing up, except ours sucked and did not blow. Air flow was adjusted by how far you opened the window in each room. It worked really well on many of the cooler nights.

Whole House Fan - Lowes lists one as Model #: WH302BDX


Do wires running attached to joists need to be protected?

If your hat channel is at least 1-1/2” deep it would meet code. (With the wires minimum 1-1/4” away from the bottom). If you want to lay the wires in the hat channel that would not be an approved method. I changed the depth to be 1-1/2" I forgot to add the wire thickness. If large wires your minimum space from the wire to the channel is 1-1/4" to meet code.


HVAC wiring for wifi thermostat installation (Ecobee) gas furnace + AC

It is normal for a 24vac control transformer to measure somewhat high under no load (i.e. 27v vs 24v).  It is 24vac system.

"B/C" on the furnace should be the common.  I am surprised the existing thermostat works connected like it is.  The only thing I can think of is that the thermostat is internally configured for a single power supply system and the "Rc" terminal is open instead of being shunted to Rh as is the case with many thermostats.  In this case if Rc were shunted to Rh it would pop the overload protection on the furnace board or the transformer.

Should be good to go on connecting the black wire to C on your new thermostat.  Do not connect any of the wires to Rc on the new thermostat.

Edit:

Schematic for Goodman AMV9/ACV9_XA furnace:


Newly installed Light, wiring issues. Won’t turn off

Wire it like this.

Note that not all white wires are neutrals. One of them is part of the switch loop. Once you have identified it, mark both ends of it with black tape or paint.
If you can't tell which white wire is the one going to the switch, it is the white wire that comes into your ceiling light junction box through the same hole, or in the same cable, as the wire you've been calling the "lonesome black wire that’s running to the switch".
If you still have trouble understanding how this circuit should work, get your library to send you a book on do-it-yourself home wiring, and read the section on switch loops.


Inadequate refrigerant causes the evaporator (and sometimes the condensor) to form ice or frost on the outside.

The usual fix is to have a HVAC tech repair the refrigerant leaks and recharge the system.

You can save some of the service call cost by looking for the leaks and pointing them out.  Soapy water works well applied with a spray bottle or small paintbrush.


Wet spot on outside of foundation oozing

My guess is that a lump of unmixed something-or-other made it into the concrete pour. If it was portland cement it would have cured long ago, so maybe it's lime, which is added to concrete as a flex and waterproofing agent.

Lime concrete, produced by this mix, makes a good base for load bearing walls, columns, or laying under floors because it has a degree of flexibility that regular concrete does not. It also has a certain waterproof property to it that prevents subsoil dampness in floors and walls. Additionally, lime concrete can be made easily and cheaply while still providing a durable material that resists weathering and wear and tear.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-much-lime-should-i-add-to-a-concrete-mix


The plug metaphor doesn't work, because these loads are quite large.  50A circuits can't have 2 outlets. EVSE's can't share circuits. And a 50A appliance needs a 50A breaker to protect it from internal shorts -- if it had a 90A internal short, the 100A breaker wouldn't protect it!

The circuit breaker must match the load(s).

As discussed, each EVSE must have a circuit breaker dedicated to it, and the breaker must be the appropriate size for the EVSE according to its specs and docs.  Chevy Volts either use a Level 1 13A/120V charger... or a Level 2 32A/240V charger.  Neither of those wants a 50A breaker. Hot-dogging this stuff is not appropriate.

You're always allowed to use a larger wire than is required, so a #4 wire on a 20A circuit is absolutely fine, provided the breaker is 20A and the socket is 20A.

The breaker must protect the wire. (and the loads).

The largest breaker you can use is decided by the wire.  We have tables for that, namely 310.15(B)(16).   That is based on wire size, wire type (indicating temperature allowed, 60C vs 75C), and copper vs aluminum.

For instance #4 aluminum THWN-2 in conduit is allowed 65A, which you can round up to a 70A breaker.

However, still, the breaker is also limited by the load; e.g. a Level 2 Chevy Volt charger needs a 40A breaker.

The reason is the 125% derate required for EVSEs and other continuous loads.  You must provision 125% of the actual current draw.  That is why the Volt Level 2 charger is 32A.  125% of 32A is 40A, a common breaker size.

Subpanel is how you solve this.

You can run  the wire right up to its 310.15(b)(16) limit if you have it feed a subpanel.   Then, in the subpanel, you install breakers appropriate for each EVSE.

We recommend lots and lots of spaces in the subpanel, because spaces are cheap, and running out of spaces is a stupid, expensive problem.  So you take our advice and get a 16-space panel with 125A busing.  Take that 70A example.  That's more than 70A so that's fine.

Then, you install breakers.  You install a 40A/240V breaker for your existing Chevy Volt Level 2 EVSE, and a 20A/120V breaker for your level 1 EVSE and general tools.  You get the Tesla, and it wants a 50A/240V breaker, so you fit that also.

Now, the 70A breaker in the main panel protects the #4Al wire in the walls, and also protects the 125A busing in the subpanel.  Each EVSE breaker protects its individual EVSE.


Painting pressure treated wood and particleboard inside a shed

Pressure treated wood should be dried out before painting. 3 monthes - a year depending on climate. I would go with a good primer first before painting. Use floor paint for floor or just go with a solid stain.


It sounds like the the center contact has loosened up in the fixture, with the power off pry the contact up a little and that may solve the problem. There are usually temp sensors in can lights but since changing the bulb made it work for a while I would check the center contact on the fixture. LED's usually will not produce enough heat to trip the thermal sensor. It could be a loose connection in the wiring, but again, since changing the bulb made it work, check the center contact.


Strange intermittent popping sound from floorboards

Like Kris said it's most likely:
Expansion and contraction due to fluctuating   temperatures and humidity levels.
There are several options to address this:
If you own the house, and want "a squeek free floor" hire it out to a local handyman.
Otherwise you will play chase the squeek for weeks with a mix of screws, nails, glue and braces.
If you don't own the property, call the owner.


Can I output video single wire RCA signal out of 3 composite ports?

There are two common video connection types that use RCA-style plugs:

Composite video uses a single connector, typically yellow, to send the video signal. This is really the lowest quality video connector available, capable of sending only about 480i (which is half the resolution of a DVD, and downright pathetic compared to the requirements of high-def video).

Component video uses 3 connectors, typically red, blue, and green, to send the video signal. Component video is analog (unlike HDMI, which is digital), but is capable of sending full 1080p high-def video.

Neither of these standards includes audio, (like HDMI does). Analog audio RCA connectors are typically red and white (or sometimes red and black), and are in addition to the video connectors.

Unless you have absolutely no option, I would strongly discourage you from using composite video. The quality is quite poor by modern video standards, although of course you also need to consider the resolution of the projector. Does your projector support component video? If so, there are HDMI-to-component adapters available (I have no experience with them) that you could use from the Roku if you need to be able to terminate the cables yourself.


How do I move the strike plate on my bedroom door down by 1 cm?

I used wood filler and match sticks to plug up the old holes. I used a chisel to widen the bolt hole on the bottom as well as carve out an indentation for the plate. Drilled in 2 new holes and put the plate on using the old screws.

The door can finally close properly.


Is the part pointed out by red arrow a stud?

The part pointed at by the blue arrow is a "doubled top plate".

In this case, the wall it's on top of is a load-bearing wall. You can tell because the inner ends of the ceiling joists rest on it. If you pulled that center wall out, there would be nothing to support the top plate and therefore nothing to support the overlapped, inner ends of the joists. Pulling that wall would end up causing collapse of the structure. Handy for demolition, not so much for a simple remodel.

It may well be load-bearing even if the joists run all the way from outer wall to outer wall - that would depend on the height of the joists. Are they tall enough (and therefore strong enough) to span the full width if that wall were removed? To make that determination, though, would require looking at the structural design of the building, and might require the services of a structural engineer for confirmation before removing that center wall.


Choosing air-conditioner's BTU power for humidity

"Dehumidifying cool areas" is a serious trick

It's a common problem in England too, where it's called "the damp".

The crux of the problem is warmer air can hold more water than cool air.  100% humidity at 10C may be 30% humidity at 25C.  That's how air conditioners and dehumidifiers cool the air.  If they chill air to 10C, it can't hold much water, so water condenses until it is 100% at 10C.  Then it warms back up to 25C and is only 30% humidity.

However the refrigerant method breaks down at low temperatures, because it's hard to get much cooler than 10C without the evaporator coils freezing.

You have two ways to go from here. You can then heat the air (which dries it out), or you can use a dehumidifier that is efficient at 10C.  The best bet for that is a desiccant dehumidifier.  It uses desiccant (similar to the little pouches found in medicine bottles and consumer products) arranged in a disc. Air blows through most of the disc, allowing the desiccant to attract moisture from the air. In a small wedge of the disc, hot air blows through to dry out the desiccant for the next pass.  This hot, humid air must be ejected outside, it cannot collect water in a bucket.

If you want bucket collection, you are stuck running a refrigerant dehumidifier inefficiently.

Heat alone is enough

The simplest way of dealing with cold-temperature humidity is to warm up the air.  The warmer air holds more moisture, which lowers the relative (%) humidity level.

Using an air conditioner as a dehumidifier

Since they work on the same principle, an air conditioner won't be any more effective than a refrigerant dehumidifier.  It simply disposes of the hot air externally, causing net cooling.

A BTU is the energy needed to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree F.  A pound of water equates to a pint equates to a half litre.

Water's latent heat of vaporization is well known as 970 BTU (per pound,  obviously).  You need to move that much heat to vaporize or condense water.  Now, in the HVAC business,  when they say "BTU" they actually mean BTU per hour.  But that gives us a rough idea of the dehumidification power of an air conditioner: a 9700 BTU air conditioner will wring out 10 pounds/hour, or somewhat less than that due to inefficiency.


http://www.lowes.com/pd_182164-85538-SH-5316-WH-A_0__?productId=50029168

They sell just the sensor, which can then be mounted somewhere on the wall of your porch and wired back in to the lights controls with surface mounted conduit or above the ceiling.


furnace blower motor vibration when working hard

I read this post last night when one of the blowers in my system started vibrating, shaking the entire house. The comments above encouraged me to look into it myself, and I wanted to share what I've found in my case for the benefit of anyone in a similar situation.

In my case, it seems the Installation Instructions were left inside the unit and pages of it got jammed on the blades, causing the imbalance.
After I removed these, everything went back to normal. The AC is 6 years old, so these instructions must have been there since the installation, probably taped to a side panel internally.


Causes of radon in the basement of a newer home?

Concrete is Porous this is why we put vapor barriers down and foundation drains because if there is moisture it will permeate the concrete. Doesn’t that mean the foundation is not done correctly? No concrete is porous and if moisture can make it through it is much easier for a much smaller substance to make it through. Not only can it come just through the ground but if the well is close To the house this is a source that the radon has an easy exit compared to going through many feet of earth. If your home has an internal sump pump there is another entrance point. So radon in the home is not an indication of the quality of the foundation. Epoxy coating the floor can help as this helps to seal the floor but now the walls we can’t forget about the walls.


What type of trellis do I want to build for fruit bearing vines on the south side of the house?

The choice comes down to personal preference, how much you want to spend and the amount of upkeep. For a large heavy vine(s) like you describe I would go with wrought iron. It will last decades with no real maintenance. It is also one of the more expensive ways to go but in the long run it is worth the cost in my opinion.


Grounding in main panel without visible ground wire or ground bar

This panel is all done in metal conduit.  There are no ground wires because the conduit serves that purpose.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do.  Whoever went to all the trouble to use metal conduit, probably did it because that is a Code requirement in your locality. So continue onward in same vein.  Fit metal conduit e.g. into a knockout in this panel.  Run the conduit to your new recep location. Use a metal recep box.  Then throw two THHN wires into the pipe - white/gray for neutral, and any other color for hot.

As far as landing that wire on a breaker, just pick a breaker whose outlets are is unlikely to be used hard while the outdoor recep is.  Then pull the hot wire off its breaker, put a pigtail on the breaker, and join its original wire, and your new one with the pigtail.


Wow, bowing is right. I see several issues: 1) Bowing / bulging / failed ties, 2) spalling, 3) settlement, 4) bad past repairs, 5) lack of weep holes, 6) no sealer.

1) Bowing is your biggest and most expensive repair issue. Bowing is an indication of wall failure. It’s probably from failed ties. (Ties rust away.) We repair historic brick veneer walls and it’s expensive. You need to secure the brick veneer to the STRUCTURAL portion of wall. (Brick veneer is not structural.) You need to re-secure the veneer by drilling through the veneer and installing bolts at about 24”” on center vertically and horizontally all over the wall. You can place a steel plate on the outside of the wall and then secure the other end of the bolt to the inside of the wall...OR, you can drill from the inside into the back of bricks and set a bolt into epoxy in the hole. This will preserve the face of the brick. (This is how historic restoration is accomplished.)

2) Are those face shells laying on the ground? If so, what has happened is water has penetrated into the face of the brick (bricks are porous) then frozen, then the water expands causing the face shells to pop off. Repair is impossible.

3) Those diagonal cracks are from foundation settlement. The bricks sit on a concrete shelf of the foundation and it appears the foundation has settled. You may not see cracks in the foundation, but the bricks could crack anyway. Masonry is EXTREMELY susceptible to cracking with the slightest of movement. (BTW, we design mortar to have less strength than bricks so the mortar cracks rather than the bricks. It’s easier to fix mortar joints than replace bricks, if and when there’s a problem.)

4) Obviously the previous owner knew about the settlement and tried to repair. They did the “patching” without fixing the problem. If you just “patch”, expect more settlement.

5) There should be weep holes along the bottom of the wall. They allow moisture to run out from behind the wall.

6) Bricks are porous and need a clear sealer re-applied regularly.


What is the laziest way I can build a non-structural, non-aesthetic cinder block wall to contain compost?

Dry stacking and filling with rebar and concrete sounds like a great idea. Pretty easy and brainless.


Adding a new "knockout" to side of main electrical panel

Go out the bottom, otherwise the hole or any flaw in the conduit will bring water, rust and failure into your box.

Use two conduit bodies to make your 180 degree turn.  You can do this pretty tight to the box surface if you really want to.  Do not strap the conduit to the box, strap it to the wall.

Use THWN-2 wire in the cable. This is rated for outdoor wet locations like this location.  Use stranded, you sure don't want to pig-wrestle solid #6 (least of all 4 of them in a cable!)... and stranded will make the bends easily and pull decently.  If you don't want to buy 4 colors of wire, buy white - shuck it for ground and put tape on it for hot.

Why white, by the way?  Because of the rules applicable to re-marking wires smaller than 4 AWG.  You cannot re-mark any color of wire to be ground, it must be green, green/yellow, or bare.  You cannot re-mark any colored wire to be neutral - it must be natively white or gray.  You can re-mark a white or gray to be a hot, that is the only re-marking allowed (it's intended for switch loops).  Admittedly, shucking a stranded wire for ground may not work - but they sell single bare solid ground wire at modest cost.


Can you run a junction inside an outlet or recessed light

According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), there are only two factors that limit you.
Conductor box fill
If you're working with standard sized boxes, you can use Table 314.16(A) to determine the number of conductors allowed in a box.

If you're using non-standard boxes, you'll have to make the calculations yourself. Basically, it works like this.
Conductor Fill

For each current carrying conductor (ungrounded (hot), or grounded (neutral)) that terminates or is spliced within the box, add 1.
For each conductor that passes through the box without splice or termination, add 1.

Clamp Fill

If there are any internal cable clamps, add 1 (not 1 per, just 1).

Support Fittings Fill

If there are any luminaire studs or hickeys, add 1 (not 1 per, just 1).

Device or Equipment Fill

For each yoke or strap containing one or more devices, add 2.

Equipment Grounding Conductor Fill

If equipment grounding conductors enter the box, add 1 (not 1 per, just 1).

Volume Allowance Calculation
Use this Table 314.16(B) to calculate the total box fill.

Sum up the count from the Conductor Fill section, and multiply by the value from the table.  For example:  If you had 4, 14 AWG conductors, you'd multiply 4 by 2.00.
Sum up the counts from the Clamp Fill, Support Fittings Fill, Device or Equipment Fill, and Equipment Grounding Conductor Fill sections, and multiply by the value from the table of the largest conductor in the box. For example:  If this value was 4, and the largest conductor in the box was 12 AWG. You'd multiply 4 by 2.25.
Add the 2 totals together. For example: Using our values above (4 x 2.00 + 4 x 2.25 = 17), you'd need a box with a volume of 17 in. cubed.

Wire Connector Capacity
If you're using twist-on wire connectors, each connector can connect a specific number and size of conductors (Check manufacture documentation).  This will limit the number of wires connected together.  If you're using push-in wire connectors or terminal blocks, you'll be limited by the number of terminals.

tl;dr
If you want to supply multiple devices downstream; but the devices are in opposite directions, there should be no problem splicing multiple cables together to feed the devices.


Can I remove the rafter ties from my hand-framed garage roof?

You will not want to remove any of the rafter ties (as you called cross brace).

The rafter ties that span the horizontal distance from rafter tail to rafter tail at the side walls is what defines the triangle base of the rafter tie and its two mating rafters. Without that rafter tie the rafters can try to fold down and push the top of the side walls out. So do not remove these for the sake of your building integrity.

The spacing members that run parallel to and below the roof ridge line is equally important. It provides two main functions first of which is to keep the center top of the end walls straight and the front to back dimension of the building correct. Secondarily it ensures the spacing of the rafter ties and helps keep them directly under their mating pair of rafters. This can really help to keep things aligned if you ever decide to add a ceiling into the garage in the form of plywood or drywall.


LED strips: Red lights can't be controlled

Exactly.  It's a cheap cheese controller, if the price tag wasn't a dead giveaway.

Get another one from anywhere, long as it's

your same voltage (almost certainly 12V, some don't even care) and
the same number of channels (RGB and RGBW controllers are different).

In fact, I'm now seeing RGB controllers from top tier makers  (I can't remember the brand, GE, Siemens, Philips, Sylvania, one of those) - also IKEA makes surprisingly good stuff that performs very well IME, and is top rated by the Youtubers who do teardowns.


Will a kitchen with porcelain tiles on the last floor of a house add too much weight?

This might help: http://ci.camarillo.ca.us/docs/bs/Weights%20of%20Building%20Materials.pdf - it says 7.7 pounds per square foot for the tiles and the cement backing board. Which isn't that much. If you're putting new cabinets and appliances in, I'd be more worried about those. They weigh a lot more than the flooring, and the weight is concentrated in a smaller space.

Ultimately, the answer will depend on the house.


How to remove sheared woodscrew behind a 5mm hole?

A quick update on this question that I asked several days ago.

The way of removing a sheared screw like this is by attaching a tubular diamond drill bit (for drilling into tiles, as in the image below) to a power drill. The internal diameter of the drill bit should match the diameter of the shaft of the screw, so that it fits tightly. In this case, a 3mm internal-diameter drill bit.

If the drill is spun in reverse direction while forward pressure is applied, the diamond encrusted tip of the drill bit bites into the screw thread in counter-clockwise direction, turning the screw.

The more tightly the screw is embedded, the more forward pressure may be needed to turn it.

If the first attempt fails, and you just end up cutting away the thread, leaving just the shaft, using a smaller-diameter drill bit (just enough to bite into the outer circumference of the shaft) may work.


Can I "flip" a light switch (top/bottom position)

Some kinds of "quiet" switches have mercury-wetted contacts and must not be installed upside-down. If the manufacturer went to the trouble of putting a "top" label on the switch then it probably is one of that type.

If you insist on changing the on-off operation of a three-way switch, you should not move the physical device. You should interchange the travelers. Identify the common wire on the switch, then disconnect, swap, and reconnect the other two wires.

Don't interchange the travelers on both switches, or you will get your original functionality back.

BTW you really should think this through before altering anything. If you change the action of one switch, you will create the situation where one switch is up and one switch is down when the lights are on, both switches are down or both switches are up when the lights are off. I can't see how this is any kind of aesthetic improvement.


2 PVC Pipes running from unit to basement

OK. These  have nothing to do with and no connection to the AC compressor, which makes a lot more sense than the original question with no outside picture.

Flex pipe is probably not an option - if it IS an option it needs to be a type specifically approved by the furnace manufacturer.

While direct vent exhaust is relatively cool, so it can be run in plastic pipe, it is still quite deadly due to the carbon monoxide it contains, and you do not want to be casual about how it's handled, or you and your family won't wake up some day. It happens.

You might well plot out a different route for the pipes that is less inconvenient, but be sure it fits the manufacturer's requirements for the intake/vent system (or have it done, or checked, by your heating contractor.)


Should I replace amissing insulation over the heat tape on my water pipes?

Welcome to DIY! You should replace the missing piece of insulation. The insulation works with the heat tape to prevent freezing.


Will humidity hurt my furniture and paint/fixtures while on vacation? Note: I left a few windows cracked before I left for a week

Normal humidity should do no harm to anything that's been properly made. Remember, humanity has lived with poorly sealed houses in humid climates for centuries, and our belongings have adapted to deal with that.

Woodworkers, for example, are very aware that wood expands and contracts as it gains and losses moisture, at different rates along and across the grain. That would cause trouble if everything was firmly held in place, so some connections are actually designed to slide a bit.

Other things make other adaptations, but o in general as long as materials aren't going to be soaked they will do OK.


What is my wall made of and how should I hang a 50lb mirror?

Stud, if you can
While there are plenty of fasteners that claim to be rated for "x" lbs., if you can mount using screws into studs that is generally the best thing to do. Screws into studs can typically hold hundreds of lbs., like kitchen cabinets full of dishes.
Studs are usually 16" apart in 20th century US housing. So once you find one stud you can usually find another easily. Drill a pilot hole where you think you have a stud and if you "break through" after ~ 1" then keep searching.


You could use an Anti Sag Gate Kit.

Installing this will help to pull the corner up but i would rebuild the bottom rail of this gate first.

I would remove the gate from the fence and place it on a flat work surface, loosen up  or remove the screws holding the main frame rails together and use a square to square it up, then use a gate hardware kit to put it all back together (  i would probably still use the cable kit for added support and adjustablity. )


How can I fix the mounting of these outlets in this box that is taller than the outlet?

All your listed options will work.

Folded edge covers always fit a bit wonky, unfortunately they don't make a crushed corner version for 4-11/16" boxes
Gap between faceplate and mud ring that looks incorrect, possible hazard
A lot of work, 4.5" face plate will extend past edge of box, less hazard
A lot of work, will look the best, possible damage to sheetrock that can be complicated to repair

5th option? Really option 2.1, maybe a flat device ring, a regular sized 4.5" faceplate will mount flush against device ring and be smaller than existing 4 11/16" box. Probably most expensive fix.


size breaker and wire to used on a car lift

15A/14AWG would suffice,  but you'll get more general usefulness out of the circuit if you run 12 AWG.

Also, in many commercial locations, 12 AWG is the minimum allowed.


How can I cool an under the counter icemaker?

I would 'push' and 'pull' with "muffin fans"

I would locate the 'push' side in the toe-kick area in the cabinet to the left and put the 'pull fan inside the top left wall (in the cabinet to the right of the icemaker)  this should pull out the hot air at the top and supplement with relatively cooler air near the floor.  Fan shrouding, plug in timer for night time operation (muffin fans are loud) and safe electrical wiring are left to the reader to implement properly.


Which patio door should the lock be installed in?

The roller doesn't affect how you select and install the lock. Think of it as of a latch of weird form.

The conventional way would be to install the lock onto the door that opens first such that when you are in front of the door and the door that bears the lock has hinges on the right you have to rotate the key clockwise to unlock and counter-clockwise to lock and if the door has hinges on the left you rotate the key clockwise to lock and counter-clockwise to unlock.

This answer has great pictures for door opening directions.

The latter is all about "right-handed" v "left-handed" - with the lock selected correctly you will have it behave conventionally. You can of course install the lock with "wrong" rotation direction (right-handed where a left-handed should go or vice versa) - then it will work okay, but you will have to rotate the key opposite to convention which is a bit annoying. That's the only issue you might have - it has nothing to do with the roller.


Can I use 220 V outlets on a 15 ampere breaker and wire it up as 110 V?

Send it back right now

You bought it off Amazon Marketplace, the world's biggest junk shop.  A step down from eBay, even, because this garbage hides amongst legitimate products.  Here.  See what you had to notice to even spot it?

Note the "Sold by some_random and Fulfilled by Amazon" part. That means "Amazon Marketplace" flea market.  Often, they also have goofy brand names that sound like Ikea furniture names, but you can't count on that.  They're just making it up.

Standards matter. Really.

These things don't come within a mile of US safety standards.  If you think that doesn’t matter, watch Big Clive's teardown videos on Youtube, you'll get religion right quick :)

Heck, it doesn't even comply with EU safety standards.  The CE stamp and RoHS stamp are counterfeited... or to be more precise, they are a legal promise by a bricks-and-mortar business inside the EU who manufactured it there or took responsibility for legally importing it, that it complies. If Joe EuCitizen mail-orders it, and it ships direct from China or via Amazon's fulfillment center (for some reason), Joe EuCitizen is the importer in EU law, and Joe has no chance of complying.  See how that works?

In the USA the system is not promise based, but requires every piece of equipment be listed.  Listed means manufacturers and importers must send off specimens of the items to Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) or equally competent testing lab, where they do destructive testing well beyond BigClive levels.  Most equipment breezes through this because manufacturers know what they're doing and they're either using the same methods as were approved before, or use components with the RU mark which means UL pre-approved the components.

The scam

Here is the business model of this scam.  Many Chinese counterfeiters market products designed to look like legitimate product, but of course are made very, very cheaply.  This scammer found this particular one on Alibaba, a bastion of this type of spew. He asked the builder "hey, can you give me USA sockets?"* The builder said "sure".  (Hence the Faux German wire colors).  He paid $6 for the units, $2 each to have them individually packaged, and sent to the Amazon fulfillment warehouse (for which he pays about $3 per unit), and so they're in Prime. Probably did all this from a computer in East Asia.

So you have ten(s) of people pretending to be hundreds of companies all selling the same stuff from the same 1-3 Chinese junk mills.  (notice how you see the identical units over and over in the Alibaba search results).

Note the price is only a little bit below the price of a UL listed domestic unit from a reputable builder that is actually designed for that purpose and built properly.  That's how they set prices: expensive enough to look legit and cheaper enough to make you buy.  The profits are insane, and they don't even care that you return it; don't be surprised if they tell you to keep it.

Total junk.  You were ripped off, request a return based on "not as described" and send it back.

How to buy not junk

If it's too late to send it back, or if they tell you to keep it, send it to Big Clive on YouTube.  He will tear it down in a video and show you all the ways it would've tried to kill you.

In the future, don't buy electrical parts online; they are price prohibitive because they're usually too low value to justify shipping.  Talk to your local electrical supply house, and tell them you are sick of being overcharged by Home Depot (that puts them on notice that you are price conscious).

Certainly never touch an "Amazon Marketplace" product again with a 10-foot pole.

Amazon proper is supposed to be OK, but two problems.  First telling the difference in listings.  Second is, the listing may say "shipped from and sold by Amazon Proper" and Amazon may normally stock product legitimately sourced from Actual Leviton.  But if Amazon is out of stock on that, they will silently and automatically substitute the same "SKU" from an Amazon Marketplace seller — and the Marketplace seller may be selling counterfeits.

-

* the HA-BSD-001 code on the parts bag googles to a page on Alibaba, listing an identical device, but with a German "Schuko" socket instead of our familiar friend the NEMA 5-15.  The wire colors, right on cue, are shown in the listing as red, blue, and yellow/green, faux German colors.


Washing Machine Drain direct to drain pipe vs laundry tub

Lint in drainwater should not clog pipes - it will just be carried along with the water.

Whether it's bad for something further down the line (such as your septic field) will vary depending on things like whether there even is a septic field at the house in question, whether the tank has a filter before the drain field, etc. Generally not an issue if going into a public sewer.

A laundry sink has uses, but is now uncommon as it also takes up extra space. In houses with limited drain capacity, the holding function of a laundry sink can take the high-speed washer output and let it into the drains more slowly without overflows. That's rarely a problem in "modern" house plumbing that's designed to a code which expects washer drains to accommodate typical washer output flows, but can be a big factor in keeping a laundry sink in an older house with less robust plumbing.


Running multiple UF wires in a single trench

IME, IMHO, UF is a terrible idea, but you can certainly put 3 UF in one trench, and you COULD bring them in through one (HUGE) LB - the LB needs to be HUGE because oval wire is treated as round wire of the largest dimension of the oval for conduit fill purposes, and 3 wires does not get the one-wire higher fill percentage. Also practically speaking you'll appreciate having the space to get the job done with less swearing.

I would STRONGLY recommend conduit and individual (wet rated) wires. The trench is the expensive part. Conduit means never having to dig the trench again, while direct burial means you might have to do that. Not infrequently conduit and wire is competitive with or actually cheaper than direct burial wire.


Is the hole cut in the wall for externally vented, over stove microwaves, standard?

Nope there is no standard for exhausted hoods as far as location some are vented backside and some topside and others can do both.  But as far as the hole location I would measure exactly where it is on the original unit then pull up the specifications sheets at the manufacturers website for any new model you plan to buy.


How can I upgrade a sub-panel without upgrading the three-conductor supply?

Assuming your conduit is continuous from your basement to your subpanel, your best option is to use it as your ground path.  Metal conduit is an excellent ground conductor, and can easily handle hundreds of amps, even when a little rusty.

Buy a conduit ground clamp, such as this one:

(Image courtesy of Home Depot)

Then, run an appropriately sized green or bare copper wire from the end of the conduit in your basement to your service panel, or any point along your grounding electrode system.  This will complete the ground path from your subpanel back to your main panel.

Now, to complete the conversion, shut off the breaker feeding your subpanel, and remove the neutral-ground bond that's likely in there.  This may require moving neutral and ground wires onto separate buses if they're currently mixed.

If you're not sure the conduit is continuous (i.e. it might transition to plasitc somewhere underground), you can now test that with a multimeter and an extension cord:  Plug it into any regular outlet in the house, walk to the subpanel in the garage, and test for continuity between the round ground pin of that extension cord and the metal conduit going into your subpanel.  If it has continuity, you're good to go.  If not, now pull another ground wire through the conduit and connect it at the subpanel and main panel/grounding electrode system (but still leave the conduit clamp connected as well -- it's good to bond conduit to ground even if it isn't serving as a ground path).


Why is my Nest thermostat not working with A/C?

This has been idle a while, but my guess is you need to connect the Nest to the R terminal of thermostat 1 on the controller instead of R1.

It looks like your control system was designed and wired for a heatpump but you no longer have one (there are only 4 wires on the lower left block which I think is the output to the furnace/AC compressor).  If so the O and B wires are unneeded and can be removed from the control panel.

So what I would try:

Zone 1 R to Nest Rh  (24VAC Hot)
Zone 1 C to Nest C   (24VAC Common)
Zone 1 W to Nest W1  (Heat)
Zone 1 Y to Nest Y1  (Cool)
Zone 1 G to Nest G (Fan)

Only thing I don't understand is how the fan gets turned on by the second thermostat in Cool mode.  (In cool usually the thermostat has to tie both G and Y to R (24VAC Hot), in heat only W has to be tied to R (+24VAC Hot)... Since it works it must be something the controller does automatically.

By connecting the Nest to the C terminal it gets access to 24VAC without trying to power it self from "leakage current".

It you want to test, jumper Zone 1 R to Y for a minute and see what happens.  Does the compressor come on outside?  Does the interior blower fan?

Double check this against the manuals..


How would you protect a plywood container from moisture and abrasion?

The usual approach is a couple coats of polyurethane varnish. I'd sand it a bit to clean it up and give it a coat on all exposed surfaces. Steel wool between coats. It'll be apparent when you've applied enough coats to seal the edge grain well enough to protect it. Reapply every couple years as needed.

If you want the plywood to have a color, simply stain or paint it first. If you use a good oil-based paint (like a floor paint), you could omit the varnish and use two or more coats of paint. Otherwise paint with a flat sheen, then varnish. Glossy sheens would require light sanding for good bonding of the urethane.


Basement Wall with Stucco/Concrete that needs to be removed

That is a skim coat and depending on how well it was applied it can be difficult to remove. I use a needle scaler (welders use these to relieve stress and quickly clean slag from rust) I got my first one from harbor freight years ago and literarily war it out doing similar work. It is not hard but time consuming. I don’t know if there is an electric version but it was recommended by a friend that is a millwright.
needle scaler. I googled needle scaler and there are quite a few on line the last one I purchased from HF has probable been used over 100 hours, the one before that lasted 10+ years they really make the job easy. I have no connection to HF except having purchased a few of there tools some are real junk but I have a few that have been recommended by friends that have lasted well beyond my expectations.