Here is how manufacturers make an appliance one voltage or another.

electronic switch-mode power supply. These can input a huge range of voltage, for instance many fluorescent ballasts take 90-306V.  If you see that, don't be surprised, it really works.
The machine runs on low-voltage AC or DC from a pluggable "wall wart" transformer, and they simply give you a different transformer for different voltages.
Internally, the machine has matched sets of 2 things: heating elements, motor windings, etc.  For 120V, they connect the two things in parallel.  For 240V, they connect them in series.  Sometimes there's a switch on the outside, otherwise you might have to tear into it.
The machine's key components are wound differently with different wire, e.g. 120 turns of 2mm2 wire for 120V, 240 turns of 1mm2 wire for 240V.  These, you cannot convert in any practical way, except to buy different parts or more likely, a whole machine.

Keep in mind: In the UK, many power tools are 110V.  Construction sites are set up with special 110-volt center-tap transformers (55 volts per leg). A hot-to-ground fault is far less dangerous than their normal 240V.

I would bring over a good supply of 12 AWG extension cords so you can leave the autotransformers in one corner of your shop and bring the power to the tool.

If you just wanted to wire your house with a 120V sub-panel and NEMA 5-15 outlets, used 240/480 input, 120-240V output, 5KVA transformers are often pretty cheap on Craigslist. That's not a consumer product but is for permanent installation and could power a small (40A 120V) sub-panel.

Also for bigger tools, you may be better off using Euro tools. Their receptacles can deliver twice as much power as our little NEMA 5-15, which limits common American tools.


What is the most effective way to destroy cockroach and centipede size pests?

Diatomaceous earth (DE) allegedly works very good on most bugs that have an exoskeleton similar to that of an ant or cockroach.  It cuts through their shell, exposing their gooey insides to the air.  Once exposed, they quickly dehydrate and die.

Diatomaceous earth for pool filters is somewhat poisonous, so you'll be looking for food-grade DE or some other form that is nonpoisonous.


is there a way to nail hardwood floor where ceiling meets floor at 45 degree angle

Get the last rows you can nail in through the pre-drilled nail holes or with a nail gun. Toe nailing will not be critical here. The last 3 rows of any nail down floor I seen always has the last few rows surface nailed anyway. After that determine how much vertical space you have to the angled ceiling and rip a piece of material with an angle on the top to create a very short knee wall. Lay out the the rafters first to know where to nail the "knee wall". Do all the probing for the rafters if needed, behind the line that the knee wall will cover.


I can only see L1 and L2 labels, so L1 will be Switch A and L2 will be Switch B. The terminal at one end is the common, and the two at the other end are the changeover/travellers.

It should be basically the same layout, but rotate one of your existing switches through 180 degrees. I.e. your existing switch has both commons at the top, but the new switch has a common at the top and a common at the bottom.

These are coloured lines only, not wiring colours.


Grouting travertine tiles: grout bag or float?

In all my jobs, whether large or small tile, using a grout float has always been the way it has been done.

Bagging it would practically do the same thing. The tip of a grout bag is much, much wider than the joints, and you would need to force the grout in anyway, still smearing it over the face of the tile.


Size of insulated flex hose needed to install for bathroom exhaust?

Either follow "just about stright" to use hard smooth duct at 4", or figure the reason the builders used 5" was that increased size somewhat compensates for flex duct having terrible flow friction compared to  smooth duct.


It sounds to me like you are essentially asking how to make a 'raised curb'

Building a form, mixing, pouring and floating all this concrete is pretty labor intensive. Before you start, you may want to consider an edging made out of paving stones would be far easier to contour and a much faster install.

I'm not an expert, but live in a city where people are in charge of their own side walks and thus there's always a lot of refinishing activity going on. I have never seen anyone overlap the uppermost surface of concrete unless they are doing pouring over an entire slab with 4" of fresh concrete.  Thus, much like the raised curbs you see around you, it's best if there is either:

a slight gap between the existing concrete

or

An an edged in joint exactly where the new and old concrete mate

TLDR;

Contorting a form above your existing concrete will likely to be harder than seating it into your trench and using the edge of your existing concrete as a brace.  If you use something like (15/32") treated plywood to make your form, you can cut it flush with your existing concrete once your new form has dried and it will act as your expansion joint.


What causes taps to make a loud bang sound when quickly closed?

As Sheetmetal85 mentioned in the comments, you are hearing "Water Hammer". This is probably happening in one of two ways:

When shutting the water off quickly, the force of all the moving water is banging against your faucet causing a "thunk"
When shutting the water off quickly, the force of the moving water causes your pipes to shake causing some noise not directly next to the faucet (this could be due to unsupported pipes, some pipe straps that have worn down, really anything keeping pipes from remaining stationary)

Start by looking for something that could be shaking, including the sink itself, when the water is shut off quickly, and tying down whatever is doing the shaking. Other than that, the next best solution is a thing called a water hammer arrestor, which basically acts like a cushion to absorb the force of the water and prevent pipes from shaking.


Why does my ceiling lights require some other outlet in the room to be turned on and off again before it works?

This is NOT normal.

If I had to guess, I would agree with Steve; there is a connection somewhere in this circuit that is just barely loose, and is requiring an electrical arc to complete the circuit. The light bulb just isn't enough, but turn on that power-hungry heating element and the circuit is now drawing enough for the arcing to be the "easiest path". Arcing across a gap produces heat which helps to swell the metal parts in the connection, drawing them closer together so this doesn't occur once the circuit has "warmed up".

If I were a betting man, I would put a nickel on your home having aluminum electrical wiring. Aluminum is more susceptible to this expansion and contraction while under load, which is why copper is used in virtually all new construction. Aluminum isn't dangerous, per se, you just need to know what it will do over time and plan for it; terminals should be screwed down very tightly, a little slack should be given in the box and along wire runs, and of course Al-rated switches, outlets and receptacles should be used.

Before calling an electrician there are some things you can try yourself. With the power off at the breaker, open up the switch box and outlets, and clamp down all the wiring terminals on both switch and outlet. If the outlet or switch seems very old, beat-up, worn, rusted, or generally untrustworthy, replace it. If you do have aluminum wire (should be real easy to tell), it will require Al-rated switches and outlets; they can handle the higher heat, the expansion and contraction of aluminum as it heats, and are made of metals that won't react galvanically with aluminum. DO NOT use switches rated for "copper or copper-clad wire only"; the switch or outlet will say exactly that on the back of the switch body, and will have a circle and line drawn through the letters "Al".


Can I attach heavy glass enclosure to plastic shower

Glass shower enclosures are typically supported by the walls and specifically studs in the walls. Often they will be attached through the shower surface (tile, granite, etc.) if it's structurally sound. Glass is heavy. The biggest issue is typically with the door because it is hinged (suspended) on one side. Some of the weight of the door can be offset with metal framing around the glass enclosure and the door. However, the door must be fastened into a supporting wall stud and preferably a double stud.
The short answer here is No! You don't want to try to mount glass directly to a plastic shower enclosure. You need to get a professional involved here if you haven't worked with this before. If it's not mounted properly it can be dangerous.


Advice on what kind of paint to use on metal fire pit

Use "Stove Black" paint:

Image stolen from internet and not an endorsement for any particular brand.


My kids each have the red Kallax shelf system.  They each come with a long L bracket.  These should be installed on the third row up on the outside squares.  If you can't do it there go up to the 4th row.

The long part of the L goes on the wall.  For plaster you will need to use threaded anchors or toggle bolts.  You may have to put in 2 on each L bracket into the wall.  It would be advantageous if at least one of them went into a stud (then just use a wood screw - even a drywall screw).

From there you screw in the short end into you shelf.  I have trim too and shelf actually sits a good 3/4 inch from wall - should not matter.  Also when screwing in the short end of the L bracket try to keep the shelf flat or slightly slightly tilted back.  Really the shelf should "sit" and you are not moving it during install.

Once you screw in bracket IKEA gives you bracket covers.  Throw those on and you are done.  Note that these brackets are not made to hang you shelf on the wall or anything crazy like that.  They are simply so a child can't tip the shelf over on them if climbing it.  I am sure I could go in their rooms and rip these off the walls.


How can I remove paint splatters from sealed decorative concrete deck?

This will only work if there's a handful of splatters

Well technically if you've got unlimited time you could do this with an unlimited number of splatters.

What you do is get a icecube and a small chisel or something similar. You  hold the icecube on the paint splatter for a few seconds and then pry it up with your chisel or tap at it.

Since it's winter here it wouldn't work but if you're doing work around your pool I'm assuming you're in a southern climate. I've never tried it on very fine overspray but on splatters it works quite well and is very gentle on the surface underneath.

If it doesn't work on fine overspray and that's what you're trying to remove you could try Goof Off on a mildly damp cloth and with a light but rapid wiping motion see if you can get the paint off. * be very careful as Goof Off is very aggressive, test in a small inconspicuous place first* Goof Off evaporates extremely quickly and you would have to reapply a small amount frequently.


R302.7 Under-Stair Protection - does drywall need to be below stringers or just treads and risers?

No, you can't leave the center stringer exposed. That would leave a path for fire through the drywall. You must create a continuous break, with all seams taped.

I can't see an inspector flagging either of your other ideas, but you should probably just ask first. You don't want to do the job twice.


Can I raise the ceiling Without having joists visible

If I am reading your post correctly you want to raise the ceiling  by 600ml's which,  if Google is right, that comes out to 23.622In. I don't see that happening without a total rework of the ceiling. You have a better chance of lowering the bed at the bottom, but you are going to lose that space. Take pictures or give us a drawing with dimensions of the room and lets see what the group can come up with.


non-continuity in an 20 amp cartridge fuse for AC condenser unit

You don't mention the size of the breaker for the condenser circuit.  If the fuses are 20A and the breaker is 30A you'd obviously expect the fuses to blow first in an overload condition.

If the fuses are 20A and the breaker is also 20A you'd still expect the fuses to blow before the breaker in an overload condition; generally fuses blow faster than breakers of the same rating in an overload.

If the fuse is correct for the equipment and there was an overload that blew the fuse, it's possible your condenser is on the way out but it's also possible it was a one time glitch.

Years ago a lot of condensers required fused disconnects but you don't see it in recent years.  Maybe your condenser is old, or maybe there are fuses there from an older unit that's been replace - if that's the case they may not be necessary at all (the breaker may be adequate without the supplemental fusing in the disconnect) or they may not be sized correctly, just left there from the old equipment.

I'd have replaced both fuses (you now have one new one and one old one) and if it blows again, have the condenser serviced / checked.  I would not keep feeding it fuses indefinitely.

(Fuses may seem old fashioned but fuses are still very reliable protection.
 When they're old, maybe fuses may get a little faster to blow, but breakers can get a little slower, or may get a lot slower, or may not blow at all.  Old fuses may cause a nuisance but old breakers can be dangerous.)


Are the indoor unit's fan suppose to stop when set temperature is reach for Dakin mini splits?

I can't speak to this specific unit, but in general forced air HVAC systems have two modes for fan:

Auto = Fan runs whenever the heat or air conditioning is running - i.e., to circulate the hot or cold air

On = Fan runs all the time.

Most often I see "Auto". Occasionally people prefer "On", especially in the current pandemic as constantly circulating air means it passes through air filters more frequently. (On the other hand, most HVAC air filters aren't all that great and it also means you circulate the germs...so who knows what is best. As with so many other current "recommendations". But I digress.)
Arguably, fan "On" in cooling mode makes sense as circulating air, even if it is not "cold", helps you feel cooler. Same idea as ceiling fans, though less forceful.
Anecdote time:
I had a commercial customer (computer hardware/software, not HVAC). They got a new HVAC system with a fancy thermostat. They ran a nearly 24/7 operation, at least from 4:00am Monday to 6:00pm Friday - sales & accounting during the day, order processing/shipping through the night. They wanted the fan "On" all the time. The HVAC people tried but couldn't figure it out even though that was their job.
I read through the Chinglish manual and figured it out. The thermostat wanted to divide every day into "occupied" and "unoccupied" times. During the occupied times, fan On vs. Auto worked as desired. During the unoccupied times, the fan would always be in Auto mode. That actually made sense for a typical user - if you have substantial time where a building is unoccupied, it makes sense not to run the fan since nobody is there to appreciate the cooling effects (in the cooling season) and/or just not have the air feel "stale".
The solution: Set the unoccupied times to 2 15-minute intervals (e.g., 7:00pm - 7:15pm and 8:00pm - 8:15pm) and the rest of the time (23-1/2 hours a day) the fan would stay on as desired.


Can I safely run 595 watts of lights with a 600 watt dimmer switch?

This depends on the manufacturer's statements. Typically switch devices are rated for their expected normal device load. Wiring heat loss, etc. should be negligible enough to ignore.

Here's what one manufacturer said on their website:

  Electronic low-voltage transformers also dissipate some heat. These inefficiencies are small enough to be accounted for in the dimmer rating. A Lutron ELV dimmer UL listed for 600 W can be loaded with a full 600 W lamp load. If ganged with other dimmers, standard derating rules apply.

If you have a separate transformer from the lights, however, (such as a magnetic transformer as opposed to a number of CFL light bulbs) then you need to consider the load of the transformer too.


Can I extend the ground/bus bar in a main service to accomodate subpanel equipment ground?

Yes, you can add an insulated ground bar in the can (you should be able to get one specifically designed for your particular can, but here's what they look like):

.. and then connect it to the other ground bar using a piece of #4 AWG (solid bare copper, or stranded THHN insulated) assuming you're still at 200 amps. This guarantees that the green bonding screw that's actually bonding your neutral on the other bar will affect both bars if it is removed. It's common to add these for isolated grounds, where they're connected to a different ground altogether instead of the other bar.

Note - the one you buy may come with its own bonding screw, and the appropriate tapped hole to receive it - so check for that prior to connecting the two together (IOW, read the installation notes that came with it).


Is it safe to wire a plug-in sconce directly to the junction box?

Not safe, not advisable.

It would not pass an electrical inspection, because the wire is likely exposed for some distance (before it enters the box), and the wire composition (jacket) may not be rated for in-wall use.  Another problem is the mechanical fastening (clamping) of a 2 wire cord into a junction box.  Romex cable has a sheath, with wires that are identifiable as hot, neutral and ground wire, your configuration will not.   You could easily connect the hot wire to the threaded part of the socket.


Even if you get the key out, you really can't trust the lock any more. Next time it jams, you could be locked in.

I think for tonight you should secure the door with a couple of wedges, and call a locksmith in the morning.


Can I glue D rings to the back of a frameless mirror

Can you? You could... but I would advise against it.

A better option (depending where your skill set lies) is to make a frame for it, or glue the mirror to a piece of wood that you can then attach fasteners to. You could use a piece of plywood for instance, which is cut smaller than the mirror (2 inches on each side is probably plenty) so you don't see the edges unless you're right against the wall. Attach the D-rings to the plywood with brackets (like these)


How to remove old pancake junction box (metal brace, lathe and plaster cieling)

I'd be looking to cut around the perimeter of the box, isolating it from the ceiling and then. go to work on the steel once the vibrations from cutting it will not be transferred to the ceiling

An angle grinder will make short work of steel, but does produce lots of red-hot sparks that travel quite a distance before cooling. A hack-saw is slower, and can produce larger vibrations but will not produce sparks.

This will not be a quick job consider erecting a scaffold rather than working from a step-ladder.


Does an extension cord from 2 to 3 prongs have any benefits?

No. If the two prong device is fairly modern, it is sufficiently insulated in its design so that it does not need a separate grounding line (these devices were often referred to as double insulated). It means that the designer has ensured that it is highly unlikely that a consumer can come in contact with a hot lead in the device.

Many modern devices are polarized (one of the prongs is wider than the other) to ensure that the correct part of the device is connected to the hot side of the circuit. This helps ensure safety.

For all of these type devices, a two wire/prong extension cord is adequate, assuming it is rated for the wattage being drawn. This is a function of both the amperage of the tool and the length of the run.

When you plug a two prong device into a three prong extension cord, the device is not connected in any way to the ground wire in the cord.  There is no downside in this arrangement, but a two wire/prong extension would do the same thing.

There are older two prong devices that do not have adequate grounding and pose some risk if the device is damaged during use, for example some older metal bodied electric drills. Unfortunately, using a three wire extension will offer no greater protection when used with a two prong appliance.

While we are at it, let us rail against the three prong-to-two-prong adapter. These units are intended to allow you to plug a three prong device into an older  two prong outlet, and proper usage requires that you attach the grounding tab to the center screw in that outlet, bonding the adapter ground to the frame of the outlet body. This is often neglected. Much worse is the use of these adapters to connect a three prong device to a two wire/prong extension and no grounding is even attempted since none is possible. Even when used properly it may be "grounded" to an outlet that doesn't have a ground, and may actually be shorted to one of the current carrying conductors.
Throw these damn electrocution hazards away.


How to remove high ridges on concrete flooring

I would use a angle grinder with a carbide block / diamond impregnated masonry grinding wheel.
the concrete can be kept damp with a spray bottle to limit the airborne dust, make sure to use a GFCI protected receptacle or extension cord when working with power tools and water.
This method will make a slurry that is cleaned up with a sponge and water.
Your high spots don’t look that severe and could be cut down with a 4-1/2” grinder.
The wheels cost for a 4-1/2” grinder run from 40-100$ I find these are better for surfacing than abrasive disks those don’t work as well with water but can be used it will take a few and as these get smaller it is easy to create divots where the wheels stay the same size. Of corse a larger grinder like a 9-1/2” with a larger wheel will be easier, faster and less chance if divots but cost more
A 4-1/2” Grinder can do this at a reasonable cost even if you need to purchase a GFCI extension cord so you can keep the concrete damp and eliminate the dust.


The UPS has no way of knowing if it's on a MWBC or not. Once you get down to a 120V feed, it looks the same from the receptacle.
Therefore, the UPS can't see anything to flip out about.


Why portable split air conditioners not common? What's the catch?

Not so much of a catch but houses in UK are so rarely specified with AC (only needed 3 days a year .. :) ) that there is a (small) market for the portable ones.

Houses in US have AC included in the build so often that it is almost standard - older housing stock may get upgrades.

Remember the refrigeration cycle used is only relatively recent compared to the time we have been building houses.

Thise portable units can work very nicely but making sure that the air volume is controlled is important otherwise you can end up trying to cool the atmosphere... ie windows shut etc


No Go with Faucet Puller to Remove Handles

No!  Don’t cut it out!   Unthreading the bell/escutcheon counterclockwise while holding the valve assembly will remove the escutcheon AND the lever.  Several kohler, grohe , price pfister model lavatory faucets install and uninstalled this way.


How to remove the knobs from this faucet

The top is either a pop top or screw on and I've found some diagrams detailing the breakdown but if you know the exact manufacturer and model then it's likely on their site (but that's an easy solution and finding the manufacturer's stamp isn't always easy ... not everyone is like Kohler and brands it up front, a lot of knock offs that want to look like a competitor and therefore hide or don't even attach their "brand" on the product).

So, to solve the problem ... look for a small tab or notch on the chrome top (as small as the notch on your cell phone to pry it apart) and use the same type of hard nylon prying tools to pop the top off.  If it's a screw on then a strap wrench might be of use although there's not much to grab onto.  Using the nylon or protected screwdriver, gently pry up from the sides under the chrome top to see if you have any "give" (muscle it and you'll bend the chrome, be gentle and be patient).  If you need to make your own protective rubber coated tools, the paint section of your local Home Depot, Lowes, etc. has a plastic coating meant for handles ... use it on the other end to safety coat a screw driver for example.

I found a site with similar products at https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/valley-bathroom-faucet-y28428-chrome-pol-brass.jpg so giving them a call will likely yield you and answer directly from them, especially since they sell repair parts too and that means they have people that know how to take it apart and identify your product.  They don't display their contact phone number but they are located in Chico, CA and here's their contact page: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/cgi-bin/feedback.pl?t=contact


Can I use larger wire for the run to my shed than what's inside the shed?

The 12 gauge wire in your shed is rated to handle a 20A circuit. This is sufficient for individual handheld power tools but can get overwhelmed if you are running dust collection at the same time or want to install several heavy duty tools (table saw, band saw, lathe).

Running 10 gauge wire means you could support a 30A circuit if you do as @DoxyLover suggested, put in a sub-panel. The 30A circuit would need to run entirely on 10 gauge or better wire. Not patch into the existing 12 gauge wire.

If you don't need 30A now it may still make sense to run 10 gauge wire. Depending on the distance of the run the voltage drop on 12 gauge could be substantial (search on "Voltage Drop Calculator"). Just keep in mind to install no more than a 20A breaker.


How enthusiastically should I strip a flaking deck before staining?

Based on what I've seen in the pictures I'd say you have two option: 1) get a sander and sand the entire deck or 2) get two gallons of stain remover and spray in on the entire deck and scrape it all off. Deck stains are most durable when applied to wood and coating new stain over bare wood and then wood with old stain won't give you the results you want.

Also, are you sure the stuff on the deck is stain? It sure looks like paint, especially the way it's peeling. I bring this up because most stain removers do not remove paint. I'd suggest taking a few samples of the "stain" flakes and bring it into a paint store like Sherwin Williams and getting their advise.


Ejector pump instead of sump pump in basement

At the end I will go with 2 pumps and 2 reservoirs. Sump pit and small pump will be deeper, but only for emergencies as I don't expect much water there. For ejector pump I'll go with all-in-one pump that will be placed in sealed reservoir under floor. Better redundancy and avoiding accidental mix of sewage and drainage this way.


Eye Lag Screws in TJI type joist for suspended ceiling

Suspended ceilings are lightweight enough that you can attach to the bottom rails. Just don't use fasteners so large that they're splitting things, and come in from below or pre-drill from the side.

If you're using particularly heavy tiles, feel free to run your anchors into the upper rail. That completely eliminates any concern of damage.


Did I severely compromise my foundation by drilling diagonally through a floor joist?

I called a local engineer and he said that it was sufficient to fill the hole with epoxy putty. I mentioned screwing in some straps around the hole and he said that’s great but not necessary in this case.


It's a bit difficult to figure out from the photo but it appears that they stuck scraps of tile to the wall with compound and then simply stuck the finish tiles to that with more compound.  NOT A GOOD PLAN!  The finish tiles are poorly supported and also the smooth surface of the scraps doesn't provide good adhesion for the compound.
This is a total tear-out job if ever I've seen one!  I don't see how you're going to salvage any part of this and I'd also be concerned about substandard work on the rest of the job.


What could be causing all of my washing machine troubles?

One of two problems, burned out drive belt or burned out motor. This could be fixed by a DIYer, but need to know what level of mechanical ability you have.  Take off the front panel and take a look as you run it through a short cycle and be prepared to shut it off or pull the plug if you see sparks or smoke from the motor.


It's a 40 ampere double pole breaker.

It can supply two 40 ampere 120 volt circuits, one 40 ampere 240 volt circuit, or any combination of the two.

It may seem complicated, but it's really quite simple. Go to the hardware or home improvement store, and ask for a double pole 40 ampere breaker.


Contact surface between subfloor and joists

Just add (nail, screw, and/or glue) additional framing material to the side face of the joist to provide more bearing area for the subfloor.


Sliding glass windows in an open space: plain or treated glass?

Having an opening in your walkway to the exterior (we call that a “breezeway” where I live in the U.S.) only affects the solar heat build up if there is a breeze. Without a breeze to purge the air, the room will heat up and become uncomfortable.

Where you live, I’d definitely use tinted solar glass (like Solar Bronze double pane thermal glass.) If you use any type tinted solar glass, it should be double pane, because the glass is “coated” with the special treatment and could be scratched off if left exposed on one side.

Also, remember to have the glass made of “safety glass” (tempered or laminated) if it’s close to the floor or close to a door. (Here in U.S. it has to be safety glass if it’s within 18” of floor, 12” of a doorway, plus other special conditions.) I’d check with your local building department for current requirements.


What are my options for replacing or upgrading my window screens?

What you are looking for is called a Combination Storm/Screen Window, and most hardware stores can order exactly what you want or you can pick through the selection at The Home Depot: Window Screens is a wide variety of combination storm window/screens to pick from.


Why is my orbit/watermaster fuse blowing with brand new solenoid?

Turns out that new solenoid was a "13V DC solenoid for battery operated timer" and my timer is a watermaster "24v AC" wired timer.
Which apparently causes fuses to blow.  Using the right solenoid it works now.  I had better luck finding them at Lowes, YMMV, they do exist anyway (small head 24V solenoids).


What causes popping in new wood floor when furnace turns on?

One of two things is probably happening:

The shift in air pressure is causing expansion or other movement in the wall, the floor, or both. I'd expect this to be an instantaneous effect, but it's possible it could last a while while things stabilize.
The heat from the duct below or otherwise adjacent to the flooring is heating it, causing expansion. The wood shifts where it fits under the base trim until it reaches the new temperature equilibrium. I'd expect the same to occur in reverse when the furnace stops, but maybe the movement doesn't catch and pop in the same way during contraction.

You'll want to try and narrow down the exact source of the sound. You may be able to loosen or dry-lubricate the offending point of contact to lessen or eliminate the noise.


How to increase part of existing internal concrete slab by 300mm

Without thinking too deeply about it and just basing it off of similar circumstances I would fill with about 8" of compacted crush, lay 2" insulation, lay radient pipes and pour 2" of gypsum concrete. It's not as strong as standard concrete so the compactness of the substrate is critical. It's thermal characteristics is far superior. It's not suitable for basement slabs or slab on grade applications because they require a structural component. Another great feature of gypcrete is that is pretty much self leveling.


Can/Should I use an angle grinder with a blade for metals on PVC coated metal?

Using an angle grinder you're going to end up with melted PVC clogging the blade, and possible fire from hot metal/sparks that you are grinding igniting the plastic, etc.
As such, the suggestion to use a reciprocating saw (effectively a form of power hacksaw) is valid - however, since you already own a hacksaw, and it does not seem like it should be such a huge job, I would suggest that possibly your hacksaw blade might be dull, if it's "doing nothing to the steel" and that a new, sharp, hacksaw blade might be a very different experience. Hacksaws are made to cut steel, but a dull blade won't cut much of anything. Hacksaw blades are replaceable precisely so that you can have a sharp one easily (they are not generally considered to be practical to sharpen.)


What size should sistered joists be when repairing a cut joist?

If we're talking about any sort of engineered joist (truss, TJI), stop reading now and consult a local engineer. This answer assumes solid 2x10 lumber.

I'm guessing that you don't mean a header so much as a joist fit between the sistered joists alongside. Since the span is so short (presumably 32" or less), you can use a single joist of the same height as the one to be repaired (so you have full backing for joist hangers).

The sistered joists should also be the same height as the originals. They would not need to have bearing at the ends if they're very well fastened to the original joists (construction adhesive along with 16d nails or structural screws in sets of three at 12" intervals, say).

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|  |  |            |  |             |  |  |
|  |  |            |  |^- hangers-^ |  |  |
|  |  |            |  |             |  |  | <-- original joist
|  |  |            |  |
|  |  |            |  |  <-- cut joist
|  |  |
|  |  | <-- sistered joist

It's best to fit all joist components first (with a few toenails in the case of the cross-joist), then install the hangers. This ensures that they're pressed up tight, and that you can get things in place at all. Be sure to use construction adhesive at all points of contact (wood-to-wood and metal-to-wood) to prevent squeaks.


How do I remove old Moen kitchen faucet?

While the picture sure makes it look bad, chances are the sink is ok. You won't know for sure until you get the faucet off, but once you do, just make sure the metal is still solid. It should be. If the rust doesn't clean up, and the basin has seen better days it might give you some joy to put a new sink basin in. Anywhoo....

Loosen the single inner small nut, that should relieve tension on the outer "bell" housing.

That's about it.

To get into the bell housing:

Big Box stores, and I'm sure little ones too, sell wrenches made for this. They are like deep well sockets....
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Shower-Valve-Socket-Set-16PL0132/304217601

By the way, the name brand is "Moen" - but its a totally funny way to spell it, especially because it describes the feeling you have right now having to change it out.

Once you get it off, clean it up good, make sure you have plumbers putty, or a good gasket that comes with the new one. Keeping moisture out is what will keep the metal from looking like that in the future. Look for high quality faucets with decent warranties (some even carry "lifetime" on most parts), they cost a bit more, but it pays for itself.

Also keep any tools it comes with for future use.


What are these two pipes coming out of the house?

High efficiency furnaces will make condensate. They run the air back through the hot exhaust to get more heat out. This also cools your exhaust enough to use PVC - that's what your upper line is.

In the process of cooling the exhaust, you might get some condensation. Typically that's collected in a little sump tank. When the sump reaches a certain level, a little bitty pump pumps it out - that's your lower line.

If it freezes where you are, you might want to insulate that lower line. If it freezes shut, your sump could overflow in the mean time. It's just a dribble of water, but still.  It's a leak of water in your attic.


I really hate the anchors that come with most wall accessories.  I always throw them away and opt for my own anchors.  I love the self tapping screw in type. They look like an over sized masonry or self tapping screw. So easy to use, simply insert the sharp point on your mark, no drilling required and use a #2 phillips screwdriver to screw them into your drywall. They come in different weight ratings. I use the 40 pound rated ones for most everything. They tighten snug to the wall and accept a #6 or 8 screw of your choice.(the kit comes with three different color screws) I buy them at Lowes, but unfortunately I don't have any original packaging with the brand name on them, but I will find out and post it in a comment later. They also work great when you have an existing hole from a previous anchor failure, as long as the hole is not much more than 3/8 inch in diameter.


If you look at the screws on the switch (if it is a new switch) there will be two silver screws and one black or gold screw. The silver screws are for the travelers and the black screws are for the line voltage coming in and the load voltage going out.

Start by shutting power off and taking the wires off each switch, separate the wires so they don't touch, then turn power back on and find the wire that is hot. If you don't have a meter you can get a tester at the hardware store.

Next attach the hot wire to one of the other wires from that switch and test the voltage on the other box. Then attach the hot wire to the other wire and test the voltage at the other box. These will be your travelers.

Cut the power and attach the travelers to the silver screws. This will leave on wire in each box that is your line (source voltage) and load (going to the fixture). Attach those wires to the black screw and you should be good.


Well, it's not likely to set the lamp on fire.  That used to be the concern with people over-lamping incandescent fixtures; you'd see a ceiling light with scorched wires and a now-brown "60 watt max" sticker - they had used 100W bulbs there.
The issue with LEDs is the ability of the LED to cool itself.  Unlike incandescents which are deliriously happy inside an oven... LEDs are electronics, like a CPU or video card, and need to keep inside a working operating temperature.
The manufacturer is probably concerned there isn't enough airflow around the bulb to keep a larger LED cool, and that will cause premature failure of the LED.  (like the way you could fry a CPU if the heat sink got loose, though today, they just downclock to a crawl). LED lights lack the sophistication to "down-clock" aka "dim", because that costs money, so they just burn out.


How do you install a solar light tube through an outside wall into the basement?

I'm assuming you need at least one bend to do this? Otherwise you could just put in a window. Adding bends significantly decreases light transmission. The inlet also needs an open view of the sky for maximum light gathering. An inlet on or next to a wall cuts access at least in half, possibly more depending on orientation.

You could run it up to the roof just like a chimney, but added length also diminishes light transmission. These tubes are best with fairly straight, short runs. Complex installations are just not worth it. From what I've seen, even with simple installations, the transmitted light is only decent on bright sunny days. It's relatively weak otherwise.

In the end, the precise details of your installation would determine if this is practical. The manufacturer has recommended maximum bends and lengths in their installation instructions, based on a roof top inlet. The maximums should be reduced significantly for wall installations.


What could be causing GFCI breakers and receptacles to trip?

Sounds like the circuit is sharing a neutral with another circuit.

With your GFCI breaker installed, turn off all other breakers. Reset the GFCI breaker, which should now hold. If it does not hold, then you have a problem with the wiring on that circuit and need to open each box to investigate.

If the GFCI breaker does hold, turn each breaker on one at a time until you find the circuit that trips the GFCI. This is the circuit with a shared neutral.

You then need to open switch boxes, light boxes, on both circuits to figure where the neutrals were wrongly tied together. Suspect anything that looks like a homeowner addition, or fix. A common place this might happen would be in a switch box that controls different lights, with two or more circuits feeding the box. An unknowing DIY-er may have tied all the neutrals together.


How can I repair suction cups on grab bars?

No suction cups are 100% impermeable, meaning they always leak SOME amount of air, even if at a molecular level, so they will eventually let go. There is no way to change that, you just need to periodically release them and re-apply them, cleaning the cup and the surface as well when you do. The only viable alternative is to permanently affix the bars, not use suction cups. If you are a renter, that may not be a viable option, so just take the Preventative Maintenance approach.


What is the intended plan with this basement rough-in plumbing?

I think Jack is right--here looks to only be one water line so that maroon would be for the toilet. I would expect the vent to be in the wall, and the 1-1/2" or 2” pvc to be a sink drain. The toilet was probably planned to be at a 45 degree angle.

A sink requires a outlet within 36” so that electrical may be for that once the studs have been installed on the stem wall. With only one water line an on-demand or small water heater may have been the plan.


After blowing heat the fan won't stop, continue blowing cold air for prolonged period of time (30+ min)

The blower remaining on after a heat cycle can be a symptom of a failing safety sensor (but we don't have enough information yet to confirm whether that's happening here). The logic is that if the controller can't confirm the gas burner has shut down then the blower is kept on as a safety to avoid the furnace literally burning itself up. In this case the inducer fan (the large black rectangle in the middle) would also remain on.

You'll need to carefully observe the furnace and report back in order for us to help further.

Adjust the thermostat to call for heat
Turn off the power to the furnace for about 30 seconds, then turn its power back on. Hopefully there's a power switch (looks like a light switch) on the exterior of the furnace probably on its right side; if there isn't you'll have to have an assistant flip the circuit breaker.
Standing at the furnace while the power is switched on observe what happens. Make notes or record a video. Listen for clicks, notice when the main blower and the inducer blower come on (the inducer blower is the black rectangle in the center of the photo), watch for an orange glow to appear in the burner area and for the gas to turn on.

Edit the question to include the sequence you observe. We don't need to have the video uploaded (I'm not sure whether SE even supports that); a written description will be fine.


The additional connection holes at the line terminals are provided to extend an unprotected circuit to a location that doesn't need GFCI protection or to a location that GFCI protection will be individually provided.

I don't know what the installation instruction included with your receptacle says, but step 6 in the Leviton Installation Instructions doesn't actually prohibit installation with more than 4 wires, but instructs to have a qualified electrician do the installation. This is probably an overly cautious step to make sure somebody doesn't inadvertently connect wires to the hot terminals that were previously connected to the load that serves a location where GFCI protection is required. It could also be remotely possibly addressing cubic inch fill limitations in NEC 314, but there is little evidence of that.

Replacing wire for wire should work if it was previously working properly, but I am cautious to recommend that since nobody over the internet can completely determine that no areas being served by the unprotected hot are in areas that now require GFCI protection.


Underground downspout extensions - Are pop up emitters needed?

Pop up emitters are a good thing that do a few jobs.  They stop debris from falling back down into the pipe, but more importantly (in my area) they stop mosquitos from getting in and multiplying in the standing water.  If a grate was in place, you have open access to standing water.

They don't have a water-tight seal so they do not really stop water from back-flowing.  It's more for debris and to some it's a little "cleaner" looking than an open grate.


You have lost a phase. Your stove, once switched on, is backfeeding through the phase that isn't working. You are looking for a burnt lug or wiring probably in the meter base or panel. If you can't see any burnt or discoloring, you will need to turn off your stove and then check for voltage at the load side of all of your breakers.

You're looking for something like this.


Removing counter tiles to reveal concrete base

As Isherwood suggested, elbow grease by the drum will be required.  You can likely get the tiles off with a hammer & masonry chisel.  From there, you can knock off alot of the thinset (assuming that's what they used) with the masonry chisel, but to get a presentable surface will likely require you to grind the whole thing to remove the remaining thinset.

This will be a tricky business.  If you use an aggressive tool & abrasive, you risk gouges and exposing voids or aggregate in the substrate.  If you go with a milder abrasive, it will take forever.  In either case it will create alot of hazardous dust, and there's a good chance that whatever you find under there won't make a decent looking countertop anyway.

Are you sure this is a solid concrete countertop underneath?  It's usually some kind of concrete backerboard (if you're lucky) or particle board.

If it were me and it is solid concrete underneath, I'd knock the old tile off with a chisel, grind the thinset down reasonably smooth, and set new tile on it.  Maybe some of those bullnose counter-depth granite tiles.

If it's not a solid concrete substrate, tear the whole business off - tiles and all - and start from scratch.


What could be causing the delay in the start up of my air conditioner?

There is probably an old capacitor in the electronics which dried out over the time and now takes a long time to gain the necessary power load. If you are familiar with electronics you can check yourself for capacitors which looks bloated or otherwise funny and replace them.


Can you glue backerboard to concrete then tile over?

Yes you can glue the backer to the wall. No matter what you do if the wall shifts there will be issues. Most the time if there is concrete I do not use backer unless there will be a large difference in surface height.


Can I retrofit a 2-speed or variable speed blower on a Payne PG8UAA forced air furnace?

According to the manufacturer's documentation, your furnace should have a 3 or 4 speed blower motor. The problem is, the furnace control module doesn't use a separate speed when the unit is running in continuous FAN mode.

  When the R-G circuit is made, the blower motor operates on heating speed.

The control module only uses two speeds, one for COOL, and one for HEAT/FAN.

Click for larger view

You could run the blower at a slower speed during both HEAT and FAN calls. But you'd have to insure that the blower is maintaining adequate flow during heating, otherwise you will damage the system. This is not recommended, as you could damage the system, and void the warranty.

You might be able to swap out the control module, but you'd have to contact the manufacturer to determine if there's a compatible replacement.

The other option is to build your own control circuitry, but that's beyond the scope of this site. And will likely void the warranty on the unit.


Is grout required behind shower knob trim plate?

Not a big problem, easier to fix it yourself than to hassle with the builder. Remove the caulk and the inter-tile spacer(s). Buy a small pot of prepared grout (same color), and fill in the empty spaces between the tiles. This is easy to do, just use a flexible spatula to push the grout paste into the spaces to fill & then remove the excess (with same spatula). Then wipe the new grout line lightly with a moist fingertip to smooth the surface. Let it dry, then re-attach the cover plate and re-caulk it.


What is this tube sticking out of my roof?

Almost certainly a vent for plumbing. It connects to the sewer, so it doesn't need a cap. It's highly likely there's a sink or other fixture nearly below it.


How should I connect to a short ground wire in a metal box?

The simple answer is get "self grounding" duplex outlets.  The typical design has a little spring plate meant to connect your grounded metal box to the outlet yoke, and thus to the third prong.  Just install, test the ground with an inexpensive outlet tester, and feel lucky that the builder left you in such good shape:

If you are in the United States: surprisingly these are legal even in new construction.  Beyond that, they're perfect for your retrofit.  See the National Electric Code (NEC) section 250.146(b). Note that your ground wires may 16 guage rather than 14 or 12. That was OK at the time, and you're not required to change it now.


The normal startup should be a sequence like this:

inducer fan comes on
pressure switch verifies fan operation and flue non-obstruction
hot surface igniter comes on
gas valve opens
gas ignites
flame-proving sensor confirms ignition
blower motor turns on
pressure switch, flame proving sensor, and high-limit temperature switches continue monitoring for abnormal conditions that could develop during operation

All of those things are prone to failure: fans wear out, pressure switches wear out or connecting tubing develops leaks, igniters fail, flame-proving sensors get dirty.
You'll have to create a call for heat and observe how far into the sequence the furnace goes. If the inducer fan comes on and nothing more happens that's a sign there's something truly wrong with the flue or there's something wrong with the pressure sensing. If you hear a click and light hiss (gas valve opening) but never see the igniter glow then the igniter has failed (unlikely: igniter failure is usually permanent, not intermittent). If the gas ignites but then shuts off after a moment, and the controls possibly run through the ignition cycle again, then the flame sensing mechanism isn't working.


. The 3/8" hoses that you have will not thread to a 3/8" pipe nipple since the connectors are for 3/8" compression fittings which are different than 3/8" pipe. You need to find/buy flexible hoses with connectors that connect to 3/8" pipe. Talk to the people in the store that you are purchasing the hoses from to get the correct ones. Also, add a picture of what you are trying to accomplish. You may be able to adapt washing machine hoses or something similar for your use.


Thanks for great photos. Try putting the flat blade of the screwdriver between the metal of the end of the shade and the plastic bracket and gently pry the bracket away from the shade.


How should I wall mount a TV with one metal stud and a gap between the drywall and exterior block?

I would definitely take advantage of the block wall. I would use 2-1/2" tapcons with 1/4" fender washers straight through the drywall and than through some type of 7/8" spacer, and finally into the cinder block. The 7/8 inch spacer will prevent the screws from collapsing the drywall as the screws are tightened.   It would be best to use the largest TapCon fastener available. I believe they market a 1/4 inch diameter screw that has 3 versions: Flathead, Roundhead and Hex-head (hex's are easiest to grip and drive). The 1/4 inch screws will need a 3/16 inch concrete bit. I would use 4-8 of them depending on TV weight.


Dryer vent passing through two wooden beams. Is it safe?

Yes, that's considered safe.  The operating temperature of a dryer vent is not a problem for direct wood contact.  Keep the vent clear and you'll have no fire.

Ensure all joints are foil taped, so lint does not escape from the pipe.  Should lint escape the pipe, it can build up in the wall.

Use a "long sweep" elbow to make the vent easier to clean out.  Modern code in some states requires posting the effective pipe length at the dryer end (and it's a good idea regardless).  Dryers have specific length maximums mentioned in their user manuals.

Depending on your climate, a high quality vent hood can save energy by reducing both drafts coming in, and reduce back-pressure on the dryer going out.


How to identify the purpose of this switch?

It's possible that the switch does power an outlet, but that the installer did not remove the fin that connects the top and bottom outlets.  When the fin is removed, the top and bottom outlets are isolated from one another so that they can be independently powered.  If the top and bottom outlets are wired with two wires of the same phase, you would not notice a problem with day to day use.

If you have a voltage tester, test to see if you have power to both the top and bottom terminals of the switch when the switch is in the off position.  If you do, it's likely the installer just forgot to take a fin off one or more of the outlets.

There is probably a way to test for this without any tools, but I am stuck at the moment.  Maybe someone else will have a suggestion.

If you have reason to believe that the installer forgot to remove one or more duplex receptacle fins, you have to get in the outlet boxes to fix the problem.  Take off the covers to the outlets in the room.  If you're lucky, there will be both red and black wires connected to the receptacle(s) with switched power. These are the receptacles where the fin should be removed.

If there is only black wires and no red wires, your next step is to find out how the installer connected the outlets to one another another.  He could have used pigtails, using wire nuts to connect the "line" (wires coming into the outlet box) to the "load" (wires going to the next outlet).  Or he could have daisy chained the outlets together, meaning both the the line and the load load is connected directly to the receptacle. If you find that the installer used pigtails, you can just look for the receptacles where both the top and bottom outlets are wired.  This receptacle likely has your switched outlet.   If they are daisy chained, you have your work cut out for you.  I can't think of any other way than to start taking apart the outlets and testing the wires one by one.

If you find a receptacle that needs the fin removed, and there is a shared neutral, only take the hot fin off.  If there is a neutral for both outlets, then take both fins off.

Safety note:  Don't assume that all the wires in one box are of the same circuit.  Test ALL the wires in the box before you go in there with your hands.


Should I replace my house wrap when re-siding?

Whether or not you want it has nothing to do with siding.

It makes no difference to the siding.

The point of housewrap (brand-neutral) is that it is vapor-permeable air-barrier - as such it can reduce drafts and air movement, and thus potentially reduce your heating and/or cooling costs.


Light Fixture box with 3 sets of wires (confusing wiring)

What you've got here is power in to the fixture box, power out to whatever is next and a "switch leg" cable to the switch. You are probably right that the wires from the fixture were connected to the blacks with the wire nuts.  Unfortunately this isn't best practice, dangerous at best.  This setup leaves the fixture "hot" all the time and effectively interrupts the neutral.

The way to make it right is to connect the right black wire with the 2 on the left.  Disconnect the white wires and code tape black the white wire coming back from the switch.  Connect that to the black wire on the fixture and the other wire (white) from the fixture to the other white wires.   Best practice would be pigtail the whites so you only have one wire to deal with when installing the fixture.

Oh and get a wire nut on those ground wires while you're in there!


How do I determine if a wall is load bearing?

OK normally load bearing walls will have 2 plates on top.  But having 2 plates means nothing.

People frame however they learned to or want.  Checking door header also means nothing.  Some people flip all door headers - doesn't make the wall load bearing.  You can never get into the head of the guy who framed your house.  I worked for a construction company in college... the owner taught everyone to basically frame every wall like it was load bearing - 2 top plates and headers flipped was a minimum.  I asked him one day why we were doing this and he basically said - Well it might cost an extra $10 on some walls but we never have to worry or redo anything.

You told me this wall goes in same direction as attic joists...  That is a good sign.  You need to get into the attic and see what it is attached to.  If it isn't supporting a joist it isn't load bearing.  If this wall is just floating between 2 joists - even with a few 2x4s for cross bracing - it is not load bearing.

However if there is structural bracing in the attic it is/could be load bearing.  Or if it is directly under a joist.

You have two choices to figure this out.  Get up in the attic or tear down enough drywall to figure out what you have.  If you are a gambler and want this wall down just tear out the drywall - you will have to remove it to the joist on each side to redrywall anyway.


Running Electrical Wires in Basement Wall of Strapping

That's only really true where wiring passes through studs (and fastener penetration is likely). Because no one should be mounting anything to those recessed straps, I doubt it's a concern. I'd run the vertical wires in the middle of the stud space and move on. The obvious alternative is to use EMT (metal pipe).

Here's a discussion that seems to address this exact issue (though the images are broken, unfortunately). The consensus seems to be that there are no setback rules except where wires pass through the studs.

To be sure you'll pass inspection, ask your inspector.


Wow.. 1.5 inch should be adequate for an extremely long driveway!

I assume you're monitoring the pressure near where the supply pipe enters the home. If so, I'd try testing the pressure (with water flowing) as near to the customer side of the water meter as possible. That'll immediately reveal whether the flow restriction is in your piping or in the city's system (or meter).


What is the correct material to sheath pex pipe under a slab?

You'd install PEX without sheath inside the slab for underfloor heating only. Otherwise it should be sheathed to allow it to comfortably expand depending on temperature variations, it also makes it possible to change the pipe if it bursts due to freezing, or bad quality pipe for example. Sheathing also protects against UV light which is bad for PEX.

Why not simply purchase pre-sheathed pipe?... (link to my favorite shop areound here). It is a little bit more expensive than naked pipe, but it saves a lot of effort. You can get pretty much any type of pipe with the sheath already on, you can even get them pre-insulated.

I had (once) to shove about 10m of pipe through a sheath, and it was a lot of work, and we did it in the garden with the sheath held straight between two trees! The PEX pipe wants to curl back as it was when it was rolled, so it catches in the sheath corrugations, even with the end tapered and lubed it was a full body exercise...

If you want to do that... get a sheath that's a bit too large. For a 20mm pipe you'd get a sheath with 25mm ID, get 32mm ID instead, that will be a lot less work! And the larger ID allows you to stick a rounded end on the pipe (like a copper pipe endcap) which will make it slide a lot better...


Can I use interior oil-based primer on window glazing?

I personally would use it, presuming I'm going to top-coat it with exterior paint.  Of course, the very designation of the primer as "interior" means that the manufacturer did not INTEND for you to use it outdoors.  So you're taking a chance.

But I'd do it and not give it another thought.  What's the potential downside?  Probably something like "If it doesn't hold up, you'll have to repaint the glazing in a year or so..."  I can live with that.


Can epoxy artistically fill gaps in old wood floors?

In a previous life around 1976 we moved an 80 year old chapel with hardwood floors to a new site.  Between the age, inexpensive initial hardwood, and the move there were many wide cracks in the floor.

The contractor (who built Fort Edmonton) had us mix fine sawdust (from sanding the floor -- so the sawdust was already part varnish) with varnish and stuff the cracks.  Gave it a week to dry.  I don't think the water based varnishes were around yet.  A second coat on the really wide cracks where shrinkage showed, another week.  Then the finish sanding on the floor and several coats of varnish everywhere.  The results are quite attractive, and still look good today.

Given what I've heard about working with epoxy grout, I'd be reluctant to use it without first watching someone do a project with it.  Your situation isn't grout, but the overall purpose is the same, and you have variable width cracks.


Is 15 amp circuit sufficient for 14.8 amp load?

Your 15A circuit will be fine, considering that both loads are noncontinuous loads and they are plugged into different receptacles (210.19(A)(1)/210.20(A).  The NEC treats the two receptacles in a duplex receptacle device as separate receptacles, by the way -- this means that you don't have to worry about the 12A limit on a single receptacle load on a 15A circuit (210.21(B)(2)).


Bypass the Timer FM-DS3(e) on Hyundai heater

Here's the datasheet for the switch:
http://www.maxtronictech.com/MT-010x02.pdf

The easiest thing to do would be to get a slightly different FM DS(3) that has an on/off/timer switch, and set it to on. Problem solved, no wiring changes.

The second easiest thing would be to turn all the timer switches to the 'on' position.

The third easiest thing to do would be to bridge 3 and 4 with a jumper.  However, then there would be no way to turn this off -- not what you'd usually use for a heater!


Dedicated wiring to luminaire - what's the minimum gauge

You're logicking out that since the lamp can't draw more than 100W, a smaller wire size should suffice.  That is covered under the tap rules.

Metal conduit is required because the lamp could suffer a fault condition where it pulls too much current for its tap wiring but not enough to trip the breaker.  For instance if you had a 14AWG tap off a 125A circuit, and then had a 75A fault.

But this is all pointless if you can't find 16/18/20 AWG THHN which is actually cheaper than 14 AWG, and you probably can't.

Not least, because NEC does not allow wiring smaller than 14 AWG on any branch circuit.  Some cities have local ordinances increasing it to 12 AWG.

Within equipment is a different story, e.g. the interconnections within a chandelier.


Is it a bad idea to put a 60 A breaker in a 100 A panel?

The instructions are CSA-approved (or UL-approved; UL is now licensed to approve in Canada thanks to trade deals like NAFTA and GATT, thanks Bill Clinton).  They are requirements and must be followed, unless you obtain an AHJ waiver.
The reason the UL-approved instructions require at least a 125A service is because a 100A service would not leave enough headroom remaining to reasonably power a modern electric house with presumably at least one other large electric appliance along with normal lighting and small appliance loads.
Subpanels are irrelevant to this type of service calculation.  The old joke "I can't be overdrawn, I still have checks left in my checkbook!" really nails the difference between breaker spaces (and how they are distributed in subpanels) -- versus -- ampacity drawn by those loads.
Your house's calculations are based on the ampacity of the various loads (as well as square footage and some other odd stuff that goes into a proper load calculation).  The arrangement of panels and spaces doesn't enter into it.
That said, you have to do another load calculation per subpanel to make sure you are not overloading that subpanel's feeder.  But the 125A admonishment in the instructions does not apply to that.
TLDR: you're fine if your house's service is >=125A and it won't bust load calculations for your house or sub.


How to repair this leaking garden faucet - update (broken stem)

Good start the nut is the valve packing for the shaft if it is leaking there you need some valve stem packing. This is usually expanded PFTE sometimes with graphite embedded. Several wraps 1/2 dozen then put the packing nut back on tight and this will stop valve stem leaks. If the leak is out the faucet unscrew the handle and there is normally a rubber washer held in place with a screw. The new washer will look like a volcano a cone with a hole. These get squished over time and look flat but a new one is usually volcano shaped wide side should fit tight on the shaft and the screw holds it in place. Put it back in at this point I usually add some valve packing around the shaft and tighten the nut, with a new washer you may have to tighten it a little to get the stem packing tight. But that’s the complete rebuild. I would invest in a kit of different sized washers my box is ancient and I buy more washers, packing and orings as I use them up a inexpensive kit of parts for a home owner.


Do I need to ground Ethernet cable run beneath a pier & beam house?

The cable you bought looks fine.  You don't need STP (shielded twisted pair) wire.  From what I've heard, it's mostly used in industrial environments with a lot of electrical interference issues.  Won't really apply to residential environments.
I don't think that's a drain wire since the cable is not shielded. That extra wire is not copper in the picture, so I doubt it's a ground.  My guess is that it is there to provide pull strength when fishing the cable through conduit.  Cat6 is stiffer and less flexible than Cat5, so it will have more stress when pulling.


How is it possible for pressure to build up in a water heater?

Either an actual check valve or something that acts like one (such as a Pressure Reducing Valve) are fairly common on cold water supplies.


If you intend to tap the hole, it needs to be "a special drill size" and you can look that up in any of a bajillion sources, many online.
Google says 2.5mm for M3 - I haven't bothered to check for actual charts, but it will likely be correct. Yup. That's for the usual cutting tap. 7/64" for a forming tap.
If you just want the screw to pass through, M3 (i.e. 3mm) will do that.


Self leveling showing popped bubbles and small chunks

I just did my concrete floor for vinyl plank, and I would be concerned more for the flatness the the floor that it is within the tolerances needed. The bumps can be scraped off, at worst ground off. When I poured mine, I had high spots that needed ground down, quite the dusty job. The holes in  the mix from the air bubbles will be of no concern, the flooring will span over them with no problem.

You may also find that the lumps are just unpopped air bubbles.


Is there a better method for affixing UPVC floor trim to skirting, other than the adhesive tape provided?

I don't like liquid nails as it dries out to no bond in 10-years or less & prefer Lock-Tite "caulks". But yes, you can nail that stuff. You'll need to pre-drill it (or it will split & explode) for the shank & for the nail head, since you're drilling & filling anyway you may prefer to screw it like I do.


Is there a required ceiling height for a garage door opener?

Most garage door openers need just a few inches above the garage door to work. If you have 6 inches above the opened garage door you should be fine.

Some garage door openers need more space above the motor than others. Chain drives with the chain sprocket on top come to mind.


If they had a 32' play structure resting on top of them and they had 6" U brackets I'm guessing the footings are at least a foot in diameter? Maybe more? Keep in mind that even if you could dig the entire thing out of the ground it's going to weigh hundreds of pounds. Unless you have some heavy equipment to pull them out you're going to have some trouble moving them. There isn't any chance you can use them as a base for the shed, is there? If not, and you absolutely have to get them out, you might look into hiring an excavating contractor to do it. It's hard to make suggestions without seeing exactly what you're dealing with, but it sounds like an excessive amount of work to do by hand.


12/2 is awfully, awfully light for a 300 foot run.  It's not a bad installation, and it's legal and safe to breaker that 20A.  It just won't be very satisfying if you try to run a heavy draw appliance.  As things are, your tiny 60W / 0.5 amp load won't be a probem.  Punch your actual amp load into a voltage drop calculator (and specify 99% allowable voltage drop) to see what the voltage drop will be.

You new setup will delete the GFCI receptacle, but that's a good thing. The problem with GFCI's at beachside is that if the GFCI itself gets wet, electricity can leak from the unprotected line side of the GFCI and kill you.  A better place for the GFCI is actually as a breaker in the main service panel, so the entire wiring run and the panel and the receptacle are all protected.

Since this is only one circuit, all you need here is a shutoff switch, provided you have a GFCI back at the main panel.  This can be a $19 fuseless shutoff switch, or a $20 2-space subpanel with a $5 breaker installed in it (using the breaker as shutoff switch). Guests need to be able to shut off power FAST if needed, so get a panel where the main breaker is obvious, not hidden among the other breaker(s).

If you want the GFCI at beachside, figure on a $65 hot tub subpanel which has a GFCI "main breaker".

GFCI breakers for your main panel are $40, so this is a wash costwise.  If you do have that, you will not need any GFCI devices beachside, and you can satisfy GFCI requirements with a sticker that says "GFCI Protected".

Using SJOOW cord between the flexing sections is correct.

If you're actually using the conduit wiring method where all boxes are connected by continuous conduit, 12/2 UF is a very tight fit in 1/2" conduit and a miserable pull (some manufacturer's UF are actually too big!)  THWN-2 individual wires are the right thing for conduit, and you get to use stranded wire, which is a joy to work with.  Only downside, you'll need 3 colors of wire.

If the conduit location is exposed to direct sun, PVC will take UV damage inside 3-4 years (so paint it).  Sched 40 PVC also won't hold up to physical damage (so use Sched 80 or EMT at sensitive areas).


Converting a Samsung Dryer from a 4-prong cord to a 3-prong cord?

You're asking how to ground it properly.

The instructions are telling you to do something which is not proper. NEMA 10 receptacles don't have ground. So they are telling you to misuse the neutral wire as ground.

In any other application, this would be called "bootlegging ground" and you'd fail a home inspection for it.  However, appliance manufacturers have lobbied the NFPA to allow this for dryers and ranges so they don't lose appliance sales.  The rationalization - which doesn't make much sense to me - is that dryer receptacles are rarely unplugged, so they're not likely to have a failure.

The failure mode is that if there's any problem with your neutral wire anywhere in your house wiring or dryer cord, the 120V loads will stop working, and the current path through them will connect neutral - and thus the dryer chassis - to 120V. You're dead if you touch the dryer chassis and any other ground. Such as the washing machine right next to it.

Option 1: Ground it, properly.

Don't mess with that heavy 10/2 cable; retrofit a ground wire.  This is legal and encouraged.  The builder supply sells #8 ground wire by the foot, and it's no bigger than telephone wire.  #10 would suffice if you can get that cheap.

Use any feasible route to get back to the service panel that powers the dryer circuit.  You do not need to run the ground wire with the conductors, because the ground wire does not carry current except during a fault condition. You don't even need to go back to the panel if you can reach something else that has a #10 ground path back to the panel (water heater, A/C, range).  Circuits can share ground as long as they come from the same panel.

Then, install a NEMA 14-30 receptacle. If the neutral is bare, that's allowed because the cable is grandfathered, but wrap it (and the ground, if necessary) with tape so they don't short out.  Neutral is not ground, and will be a fraction of a volt higher than ground when the machine is at full load, and you don't want it taking ground as an alternate path.

Option 2. Don't ground it; properly.

Here you leave the wiring, but render it safe.  You change the 2-pole breaker in the service panel to GFCI.  When the person starts to be shocked, the GFCI trips and saves them.

You must then change the receptacle to NEMA 14, connect nothing to the ground pin, and add a label "GFCI protected / No Equipment Ground".   Then you need to change the dryer cord to NEMA 14, following all dryer instructions on how to remove the bootleg neutral-ground bonding on the dryer.

At this point the dryer chassis will "float". A neutral failure will not energize the dryer.  A ground fault inside the dryer will electrify its chassis, however that should trip the GFCI before harming a human.

This method only works as a retrofit.  It can't be used on new installations; those must be grounded NEMA 14 from the outset.


Is it safe to put a 120W equivalent LED bulb in a 100W max fixture?

Yes, that is fine
"like" /"equivalent", etc. are based on light output.
Limitations on fixtures is based on heat output.
Some power (Watts) becomes light, the rest becomes heat. LEDs are more efficient and produce more light, and therfore less heat, than incandescent bulbs. Fixtures are rated on worst case scenarios. But a 15 W LED bulb can only put out 15 W heat. No problem.
It may be that fixture power rating is based on efficiency and expected heat output of standard incandescent bulbs, rather than total power output. But that would make very little difference. A quick search finds incandescent efficiency in the range, at best, of 5% to 10%. If a 100W incandescent bulb is 10% efficient (very optimistic) then 90% of the power - 90W - is lost as heat. If the 15W LED produced entirely heat and no light at all (which wouldn't be too useful), it would only produce 15W of heat. No contest.
All that being said, there can be heat issues with LED lighting. Generally this is with new fixtures designed specifically for LEDs, not putting LEDs into standard Edison base fixtures. In fact, some high-power fixtures include fans to dissipate the excess heat. This is because (a) an LED can be extremely compact as there is no functional need for a large "globe" around a filament (when there is a "filament" in an LED bulb, that's just for show) and (b) the driver circuitry between the incoming AC power and the actual LEDs produces heat. This is also the reason why some LED bulbs will specify "don't use upside down" - heat rises and if the heat is all generated at the bottom of the bulb and you install it upside down so that the bottom (as designed) is at the top, heat may not dissipate properly.


When drilling metal, should I start with a smaller bit before using a larger bit?

Is it necessary to start with smaller metal drill bits? Sometimes

It all depends on the types of metal involved.  It also depends on how much you are willing to cool the point of contact.

I have worked extensively with metal over the years.  Here's what I do when working with an alloy metal with an unknown composition:

Start with a smaller drill bit, but not so thin that it will quickly bend as it heats.
Pour water over the contact area as I drill.
Notice my progress.
If progress is rapid, consider moving to a larger bit.
If progress is extremely slow, consider moving to a smaller bit and use more cooling water.
If progress is slow and steady, continue drilling, using the same amount of cooling water.

I have also found that using cooling water that is too cold can cause shattering of either the bit or the object being drilled into.

Always wear protective eyewear, and gloves if they won't get caught.

This technique has worked well for me.


This is an old question but I will answer it for any who land here.  This job is probably too large for chipping with a rotary hammer, but that depends on the toughness of the rock.

Renting a diesel compressor, 2" rock drill and rock splitter would solve this problem quickly.  Another solution if a rock splitter is unavailable or too expensive is to use an expanding rock splitting grout such as Apex Nexpro, Ecobust or Dexpan.  The grout is pored as a liquid into a pattern of drilled holes, and expands with massive force as it cures, destroying rock or concrete non-explosively.


The closest match I could find is the Toe-winged Beetle. 2-16 mm in size. Large antennae, mainly a tropical, outdoor beetle. Your example looks to be about 2 mm.

http://bugguide.net/node/view/13057


Would a paint stripper brush remove stain and varnish from a door frame?

That wire wheel might help if there are nooks and crannys, like fine detail. But I am afraid what you will need is a lot of elbow grease and sandpaper. Starting with coarse and working down to fine, using steel wool and/or wire bushes for the detail work. Good quality chemical strippers are helpful if you are able to cope with the mess/smell/health hazards.

Wood stains are called that because they stain the wood, by soaking in and penetrating the wood fibers. You may never be able to remove all traces of the stain and bring it back to "original wood". You should be prepared to consider a new stain, maybe a light color near to what your vision of "original" was. This will help cover inevitable areas of imperfection and help blend the door color prior to varnishing.


Faucet dripping only when water main shut off

Single handle faucets or washer less actually use the pressure as part of the mechanism to stop the flow, when the pressure is reduced two far some start dripping. I usually have standard rubber washers and several sizes of O-rings for washerless faucets to replace when they start dripping, if after the pressure is restored the drip has stopped I would not worry until it starts dripping with normal pressure. Usually once a washerless starts dripping you have months to repair.


Is my contractor guy doing a botch up job with repointing

That is terrible and unacceptable.

The mortar has been mixed with too much water causing it to dry (cure) and crack. When mixed, it should be the consistency of thick paste. There should be no water oozing out when mixed and sitting on the board before “placed”.

Cracking will allow moisture infiltration. It’s useless. Remove it and re-do. Do not just reapply another drier coat over the cracks. (Type S is acceptable for above grade use.)


3 pole 4 wire grounding 3 phase 250 volts

It's generally a big problem when a three phase motor loses a phase, the remaining phases will be overloaded trying to make up the slack.  There are even monitors / relays to prevent running a motor with a phase lost.  So you definitely wouldn't want to try to run the motor with a missing phase.


building a home from ground up. money is not an issue. electrical wiring

Be practical - not rigid

Only you know your home's layout.  Either go to "switch first" or "lamp first" depending on what is most practical based on the "lay of the land".

For instance, having arrived at a lamp, the nearest thing may be another lamp in another room.  OK, go there, and then to its switch.  And behind that wall is a third switch going to a third lamp. Etc.  Power-S=L-L=S-S=L for instance.

Also, you are allowed to "tee" in any junction box (remember junction boxes must be always accessible and cannot be covered over by any part of the building, other than lamps and cover plates), so if branching a "tee" off an existing circuit run makes sense, go ahead and do it.

Generally you use /2 cable.  You need /3 cable between a switch and all the lamps it controls -- unless the lamp(s) are at the very end of the string.

Avoid the too-many-wires trap - change routing

If you have 3-way switches, things get more complicated.  You can easily reach a point where you need 5 wires (hot, neutral, switched-hot, 2 messengers). /5 is hard to get, and you're not allowed to parallel cables to make one.  On these, slow down, graph it out and possibly change your topology - for instance make the other 3-way a dedicated branch with a /3.  Or use smart switches. Or change wiring methods to conduit and use as many single THHN wires as you need.

For instance if your layout is Power-3-L-L-3-receptacle that's impossible without /5, so you do it this way

 Power-3-L-L-receptacle
       |
       3

and only need /3.  Even if the /3 cable between the switches is laid right next to the lines to the lamps, it's not considered parallel because it doesn't connect electrically.

Other  tricks

Standard practices in house design are a compromise to save money.  No need for you to compromise, here are some things you can do better.

Run 20A (12 AWG) circuits even where not required -- though this is a lost cause with lighting, as with efficient LEDs, all the lighting in your home won't add up to 12A.

Put overhead lights in every room - the new thing of "don't install any overhead lights, just switch a receptacle" isn't trendy, it's just cheap. And it prevents use of dimmers.   EMT's and other first responders will thank you.

Kitchens require 2 circuits for countertop receptacles, but your chef would love to have as many as possible.  Most kitchen appliances which use heat use 1500 watts of power.  The max for a 20A circuit is 2400W, so it can't support two.  You can imagine in a 2-circuit kitchen, that will drive a chef nuts.  Can't run the skillet, waffler and toaster at the same time.    You can fix that by running plenty more circuits, and adding outlets beyond what is required, e.g. putting 2 dual receptacles where one is required.  Also think about where people like to charge their phones.

Either use GFCI receptacles, or use plain receptacles with GFCI protection upstream (e.g. at the breaker panel). To extremes: split each kitchen receptacle and run /2/2 cable (hot hot2 neutral neutral2) to the panel, and punch them down to two GFCI breakers.  That means each socket gets a dedicated breaker.

If you put the refrigerator on a dedicated circuit, that assures nothing else will trip it.  I hate the idea of GFCIs on a fridge circuit, as it only makes this trip problem worse.  Assure it stays dedicated by bringing it to a single receptacle (1 socket not the usual 2).  If you expect to have a chest freezer, also provision a dedicated circuit for that.

Same with extra circuits in bathrooms - hair dryer and curler and little electric heater!

Speaking of bathrooms, it's forward-thinking to lay conduit between the switch area and the overhead light/fan/heater/etc.  That way you don't have to sweat how many wires to put there, you can just pull what you need.

Ditto anywhere you put a ceiling-fan box.

Get the biggest panel possible.  The size of your service panel is no place to save $50.  We get lots of "My panel is full, help" questions but never a "what do I do with all these panel spaces?" problems.  Aim for the panel to have 50% spare spaces when you are done.

Use subpanels to avoid long hauls of many parallel Romex cables.  A friend has a long house with his panel on one end, not much in the middle, and a cluster of bedrooms and bathrooms on the far end. That's the perfect application for a subpanel, and a subpanel is an easy/cheap way to add a lot more spaces: instead of an expensive 60-space panel, have a 40 main and a 30 sub.  You could even feed a subpanel with a GFCI breaker, conferring GFCI protection to every circuit in it, and saving money on individual devices.

Speaking of refrigerators/freezers... Think forward about which loads would be most urgent for an emergency generator or solar-panel/battery/inverter system.  Put these in a separate subpanel, and leave physical space for a changeover switch, even if you don't install it.

If the load is just refrigerators, gas furnace and a few lights, I would get a subpanel that supports a simple manual interlock, fit the generator-side breaker, and put all the loads on one pole.  Then on the generator feed breaker, connect that pole to a 120V inlet socket.  That would be cheap/easy.  Then, with an extension cord and a small Honda generator, you could get critical loads lit without too much work.  You don't want to have no protection at all while you decide on whether to commit to the expensive, complicated rigmarole of a whole-house generator setup.


Would like to change an existing outlet to half-hot

with only 2 wires you wont be able to control the 2nd half. If you just want to cut the power to the 2nd half turn the power off pull the outlet and break the tab between the 2 outlets on the red side. if you want to switch the other 1/2 you will need to pull a wire from the red to a switch and then back to the half you want to switch. You should also run a ground from the outlet to the switch.


Power gone along back wall of my house and did not flip breaker

Since part of the first outlet works it is probably daisy chained to the others. With the power off remove this outlet and look for broken or loose connections. Since 1/2 of the outlet is working one of the metal tabs on the side of the outlet may have failed check this outlet first. a loose connection in a back stab or broken wire is very common for this type of failure. Depending on where the feed to the outlet is landed the bottom could work or the top if one of the tabs broke or failed under load (rare but with these symptoms probable).


Figure out what outlets belong to what breakers

The only answer here is to contact your Facilities Department and ask them.

Your whole idea of throwing big loads into a building on a "rogue" basis is only going to result in breaker trips. And since you can't reset a breaker, you'll end up talking to Facilities anyway, or they may end up having a talk with you.  I know the child's impulse is to sneak until he can't... but when you're adulting, it's better to get out ahead of it and intercept the objection before it becomes one.

Power supply

Your 1050W unit is a DC figure, it will need a power supply (PSU).  That is not 100% efficient.  Some brag 89% efficient, and 94% power factor, and if that's true that means 1255 VA of actual draw.

This is a continuous load.  That means when provisiong (planning) power to the device, you must derate it by 125%, or 1570 VA.   Normal 120V/15A circuits have 1800 VA available, and one ASIC will totally dominate it with only 230W available for maybe a small console screen.   Larger 120V/20A circuits, sometimes reveaked by the T-shaped neutral socket, have 2400 VA to give, so they also can support one ASIC, and 830 VA of other stuff will fit.  VA is a unit very similar to watts.

You will not find an 850 watt air conditioner.  This will require a third circuit.  You have not stated any plan to remove 2510 watts of heat energy from a dorm room, and that is a fatal flaw.

Colleges do not like miners.  The reason is mainly the excessive power used.  When dorms proffer "free electricity" they only mean for incidental use for normal student needs.  They do not mean for you to use it as the primary resource input into a side business that profits yourself - and everyone knows the coin-mining game is All About the cost of electricity. So yes, you are definitely violating campus rules against exploiting university assets for personal gain.

It's different if you're running an ebay business and use the power to run the heat shrink gun 30 seconds a day.  An eBay business doesn't have electricity as its primary resource input.

You're using a VPN and the traffic is low.  How does their incompetent IT department catch you?  Easier than you think.  Someone from the Facilities Dept. comes out at 5 am and aims a FLIR at the side of the building.  The dorm rooms where power is being overused light up cherry red.  They can do the same by aiming the FLIR at the service panel, the high-current breakers will light up warmer than all the rest.  It's not rocket science.


Which Polyurethane for Industrial Loft Floor

I would use solvent based poly for an industrial loft. I am partial to solvent based and have had friends that said they had good success with water based (I have not had as good results) so this a opinion, however the solvent based tends to hold up better or did in wear testing so for something more than residential I would go solvent based it drys better with varying conditions were water based is more affected by the weather.


The fumes should dissipate soon after gluing everything up. I have not experienced smelling strong fumes from the glue long after the pipe has been glued. You might get a faint odor, but it should not be strong smelling.

What you probably smelling is sewer gas. Sewer gas will build up in the pipes, and you would smell a strong odor coming from the pipe after it has been blocked off for a while. This gas is considered harmful, and is extremely flammable in concentrated amounts.

Since there is a trap, you could try filling it with water before capping it off again. The water in the trap will prevent the sewer gas from coming into your home. Wait a few hours, and remove the cap. If you don't smell fumes, then the source was most likely sewer gas.


The decorative nut has been removed but there is still a small little nut that is holding the little escutcheon up against the glass. Use one hand to hold the glass and try to loosen the nut with your fingers, if you can not get it to move with your fingers try a pair of pliers gently.


On my phone it looks like the beginning of dry rot. I would use a flat blade screw driver and press where you think it is the worst if the blade doesn't sink in the wood is ok. Double check with the same pressure in an area that looks clean.

I think you will find the wood is ok but now you want to stop it from getting worse. I use a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution and water: this will kill the fungus without the smell of bleach, but is tougher to find than bleach. A dilute solution of chlorine bleach and water will also work; being in the attic the smell may not be a problem in the living space if the roof is well ventilated.

If you do use hydrogen peroxide remember to add it to the water rather than the other way around (AAA=Always Add Acid).


What does a Mitre Saw offer that a Table Saw does not?

You absolutely can make any mitre cut with a table saw provided you have the correct jigs and guides.  But, it's a LOT simpler and quicker to use a mitre saw to make mitre cuts.  For "casual" work or just one-offs, then go ahead and use your table saw.  If you're wanting to have quick and repeatable angle cuts, then get a mitre saw.

If you have to choose only one due to space or cost limitations, you might consider a radial-arm saw instead of a table saw.


Ceiling Light Installation: Junction Box or SLIM Led Driver Differences

In both cases a box is required. The advantage today is the slim may be cheaper, but in the future you may be tied to a slim box.  This could become a problem when all the mfg’s are only making replacement modules for full sized boxes because of the millions or hundred of millions of full sized boxes currently in use. How many slim boxes were ever installed?
The other consideration is that if other wires are in the box to connect to other lights, there is a minimum number of cubic inches required to accommodate those wires, so in this case, a larger size may be required today and provides more options when this light fails (LED’s rarely fail but the electronics driving them sure do).


What can I replace oversized waterproof outlet cover with?

Easy. Just get a round to single gang adapter like this:

Amazon even suggests this is bought together with an in-use cover and GFCI, so you are clearly not the only one with this problem.
If you don't have GFCI on this circuit, you should add it. Even with an in-use cover, that would be better done inside (breaker panel or an earlier receptacle in the circuit).


Water dripping from bathroom faucet even with the under-sink valves turned off?

Sounds like you have a problem in both the faucet and the under-sink valves.

When the either the faucet is turned off, or the under-sink valves are turned off, the water should stop completely.  If it still runs or drips when both are shut off, then both are not doing their job.

It is quite common for both the faucet and the under-sink valves to have rubber washers as the surface that seals when the valve is turned off.  The most likely answer here is that the rubber washers have deteriorated or worn out, and are not making full contact to stop the water flow.

Alternatively, the valves may have a build-up of mineral deposits or rust, which is blocking the valve surfaces from making full contact to close.

The ultimate solution here is to fix both the faucet and the under-sink valves.

The fact that it started all-of-a-sudden sounds like something in the faucet broke.  It is likely just a rubber washer that just needs to be replaced.

Shutting off the under-sink valves, reducing it to a drip, will relieve the pressure enough that you can open up the faucet to replace the washer.  Depending on the make and model, there may be more than just a washer to replace; some brands have a valve "cartridge" that gets replaced.

Fixing the under-sink valves will require shutting off the water supply to the apartment.  Not something you can do yourself, in your situation.  You'll have to let building maintenance take care of that.

If you want to fix it before Monday, you'll need to shut off the under-sink valves, get your screw-driver or wrench, and open up the faucet to see if you need a rubber washer or something else, and replace it.  Good luck with it!


Where to start repairing furnace that clicks when running?

That looks like the inducer motor.

If it's making a clicking sound, that could mean that the bearings are bad, and/or that there's something physically coming into contact with the spinning bits of the inducer.


Is an air pressure switch required for a whole house humidifier?

The switch is not required for proper operation.  I believe it's intended as a fail safe in the event the humidifier gets turned on without the HVAC fan enabled.  In this scenario, the humidifier could theoretically flood the duct.  If wired properly, I can't think how this scenario would occur, but I suppose a specific type of system failure could.


How can I temporarily fix a cracked bathroom sink?

You can probably fill the crack with epoxy to stop the leak.  It might not look great but it will do the job.

Make sure the area is clean and dry, and that you follow the directions on the packaging.  If there is any chipping make sure to brush away any loose debris so that the epoxy will bond correctly.

As far as what type of epoxy to use, Home Depot carries a Marine Epoxy which they describe as:

  Marine Epoxy is a permanent, waterproof adhesive. The 2-part formula is ideal for projects requiring high bonding strength on surfaces exposed to water immersion. The adhesive can be applied and will cure underwater. It can be used on glass, metal, wood and other common materials.

This sounds like it would work well for your application.


3/4 minus crushed quary makes a great base for just about any type of patio. I use a plate compactor and have finished with pavers and poured concrete in the past with excellent results. I would caution not to use crushed river rock as it will not lock together as well and tends to move around compared to crushed quarry rock.


How do I correct free-standing deck moving away from home?

This is one of the reasons free standing decks are not a good alternative to a deck that has been engineered, permitted and structurally connected to the house.

Using the house to fix what is, essentially, a foundation problem with the deck will not necessarily go well.  It is not likely that all parts of the deck moved away from the house equally (structures don't usually "slide" around.)  It is more likely one side has dropped opening a gap on the house side.  This is common, and can usually be fixed by jacking the outside edge back to its original position.

Worse case you will need dismantle and rebuild the deck, sitting it on proper foundations constructed below the front line, and anchoring it to the home's rim joint.


I think they stopped making them because they kept catching on fire.

Google search: "Halogen Lamp Fire Hazard"


Why does the water level in floor drain fluctuate when the toilet is flushed?

If your plumbing is up to modern standards you should see very little movement in the floor drain's trap water level. The fact that you do probably indicates poor or blocked venting, resulting in a vacuum situation. It's not really a problem, though, unless the flush pulls the water completely out of the trap, allowing sewer gas to escape into the room.

It's possible that there's a partial blockage downstream, but unless this is a new development it would be my second guess at the cause.


Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?

I'm thinking of driving a grounding electrode at the garage and connecting the equipment grounding conductors of the branches in the garage to that electrode, which wouldn't be bonded to the neutral.

This doesn't work.

Let's say you have a piece of equipment short the hot wire to the ground. The power tries to get back to the source. When it tries on your circuit it has to go through the ground to get there. Consequently, the breaker will not trip and it will sit there waiting for you or one of your family to get in the circuit. This is what kills people.

So, short answer is, this is a bad idea.

Spend the time and money and do it the right/safe way.

Good luck!