What kind of cable is this? (standing desk motor to power supply)

It's difficult to be certain from the image, but it very much resembles this connector:

It's a Molex 39-01-2060 connector and lists on the Molex web site as well.


I finished removing all the covers and found more clips--most of them were over the brackets that the cover snaps onto.  So, that's where I put the rest of them.

Thanks for everyone's input.


Can I use shorter screws to mount my blinds?

Using plain screws into just about any material other than wood or metal will not provide a strong support, especially if the weight that the screw is supporting is trying to pull the screw shank straight out (rather than pulling across the shank of the screw).

From your pictures, the surface appears to be plasterboard (or less likely, plaster), which has to be attached to a support structure, either wood, steel or concrete.

Wood
To test if it is wood under the plaster/plasterboard, remove a screw and insert an awl until it just stops.

With some force, try to push the awl in further. If it is wood, the awl should sink in a bit, but not too easily. There should be enough wood to allow you to drill into it and seat the screws fully. You probably need at least 1/2 inch of screw thread in wood for a safe hold on blinds. More is better. Remember that the plasterboard/plaster doesn't count. Try to guage how thick it is (probably either 3/8 or 1/2 inch) and add that to the depth into the wood.

Steel
If the awl doesn't sink in, it may be a metal stud or a metal beam. If you hit something hard and the point can slide easily side to side, it is probably metal. Try to drill a small hole through it with a sharp drill bit. If it is a steel stud, you will be able to with a bit of pressure. You can then use a sheet metal screw to hold the bracket up. If it is a steel beam, you will not really be able to (it is too thick and hard). You will need a whole different mounting system.

Concrete
If the awl stops but can't be slid along a hard metal edge, it may be a concrete support structure.  The awl should feel as if it is digging into something a bit gritty. You can mount into concrete but need to use a masonry anchor.

To insert the anchor, you first need to drill a properly sized hole with a special masonry drill bit.

It has a carbide insert in the tip. It is slow going and should be much harder than the plasterboard/plaster. The dust probably will be greyish or tan in color.  Be sure not to drill a hole too close to another hole, or the concrete between them may crumble. You then need to insert the anchor and screw the bracket into it.

While it is theoretically possible to get a good enough mount in concrete like this, it is hard. This is especially true when the load is dynamic (moving) the way blinds are.

Plaster/Plasterboard
While it is possible to hang light to moderate loads on plasterboard or plaster, it is really only safe when it is a vertical surface, not an overhead one. You can use various anchors, but not when the force is pulling directly out from the surface rather than down along the surface.


How to best repair poorly fitted rubber ring around overflow of bathtub?

For common bathtubs the correct overflow gasket should be wedge shaped with a flat side and an angled side. The flat side mates with the overflow horn (the piece directly behind the hole) and the angled side mates with the backside of the tub, fat part down to match the slope of the tub wall.

I have seen them made of both solid rubber and foam rubber. I prefer the foam rubber because you can get a decent squish on them and they will conform to irregularities on the back side of cast iron tubs (sometimes the porcelain glaze is slopped a bit back there, sometimes the casting is rough).

Do not attempt to smear caulk around it, it won't work. They can be replaced without ripping out the tub. Remove the overflow plate and take a look, you should be able to pull out the old gasket with a combination of long tools and needle-nose pliers (I use a hemostat- see picture).

There is always a bit of "give" on the overflow pipe, which helps, but try not to move it too much or you risk compromising the connection to the waste tee below (if it is the type with a slip-joint connection, many are glued plastic).

Get a piece of slim stiff wire about 8" long and bent in a "j" shape on one end and keep it handy. Get a helper too, unless you have 3 arms and hands. My technique for this is to install a plate screw into the horn so you have something to grab to apply pressure to the new gasket as you slide it into place (the screw will also prevent the new gasket from falling behind the tub if you drop it). Manipulate the gasket with your free hand, using tools if you have to, until it is positioned properly (you may have to jam it in a bit). When the gasket is in the right position pull back on the screw to hold the gasket in position between the horn and tub wall. Now use the wire to grip the bottom edge of the shoe to maintain pressure, have your helper hold it. Remove the screw and install the overflow plate (the wire should lay where the overflow ports on the bottom of the plate are).

Unhook the wire from below and remove, and you are done. Be aware that the seal provided by the gasket is not really meant to be totally watertight like the drain is, it's not meant to be submerged, it's there for incidental overfill protection.


I have a curious problem with my home electrical system that may come from the on-switching of my refrigirator or my freezer

CALL YOUR UTILITY ON THEIR EMERGENCY NUMBER NOW

This has all the appearances of a failing service neutral.  If left unabated, this situation can roast gadgets and even burn your house down, so call your utility on their emergency number ASAP and tell them that your power is failing (because it is).


Remove Popcorn Ceiling without Asbestos, what kind of specialist should I hire?

Painters are probably better at covering and protecting your furniture etc., they do that every time they work. Drywall people generally work when there is NO furniture etc. in the room yet.


Can I replace this broken pipe under my kitchen sink?

Yes - that's a "tailpiece" - the new one may be too long, if so, they are made that way so you can cut them to fit - but there's also considerable space to slide them built into the connections, so don't overdo cutting them down.


"It keeps tripping" means you have a short somewhere. That being said, you need to have all wire 12 AWG on a 20A circuit. Since you now have some 14 AWG wire, you need to replace the 20A breaker with a 15A breaker.
My best guess is that you have the switch wired incorrectly. Based on your description, you should have:

Hot (black) from receptacle to switch.
Neutral (white) from receptacle wire nutted to white going to the light fixture.
Switched hot (black) from switch to the light fixture.

If the switch is a smart switch, dimmer, motion detector, etc. then the white will also go to the switch.
If you still can't figure it out, upload pictures of the wires going to the receptacle, to the switch and to the light fixture(s).


Can I run a new independently-switched light from a box in a four-way switch circuit?

You do not have enough conductors in those cables to add a constantly powered device at the j-box. You would have to either run another wire from switch 1 to the j-box, or abandon the use of switches 2 and 3 and control the existing light with switch 1 only.


No you can't do that.

The P-trap depends on the weir which requires critical trap arm length and a slope that does not siphon the trap dry.  Your drawing siphons the trap.  You could add an aav but opening the wall might be easier.

https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/plumbing/maximum-length-for-fixture-drains_o

The other thing I've done is to make the p-trap assembly in a straight line to the back of the cabinet and then make a cut out in the shelf to accommodate the trap.  I've done this with both drawers and with shelves.


The cheapest couplers are other things
Generally, couplers are expensive for what they are, and your desire for fixed, attached couplers won't be well supported (not least because wire bending radius rules makes it awkward/complicated).
So the most expedient way to connect four #6 wires to four other #6 wires, with isolation and fixed down in a box, will be to use a disconnect switch.    Which you say you already have, so "that was easy" :)
You glossed over this part pretty fast, so I'm not sure if you are handling this properly, but a 15A receptacle is only allowed downline of a 15A or 20A breaker, you can't tap off a 50A line and bring it out to a common receptacle.  You fix that by using a subpanel at that location.


What kind of glue can be used to join flat drive belt and v-belt?

I'd use Shoe Goo ... it dries rubbery and flexible.

Another alternative would be contact cemement (I use DAP, personally, do not get the non-flamable one that cleans up with water), but it's much harder to work with in general.  And they're serious about using it outside -- the fumes are very strong.

And my last choice would be basic rubber cement ... the bond's not great, but if you're reinforcing it, it might be okay.  (just don't get the 'repositionable' stuff)


Murray mower with B&S 500e engine running strange

For those symptoms, I'd initially suggest that the fuel tank and fuel-line need a flushing and cleaning. The tilting back remedy typically means the fuel tank's screen filter is mostly clogged...assuming it has one or some type of filter.

I don't know the specific engine, but very related to the above is a fuel-bowl attached to the carburetor and most especially the Jet-Bolt that attaches them together.

The fuel-bowl needs to be clean and the Jet-bolt needs to be poked clean with a pin and then blown or flushed clear.


Can I install a sink sprayer with a faucet not designed to support one?

Generally you want the sink sprayer attachment to be getting its water flow from the point after when the sink faucet has turned on the water and mixed the hot and cold to the desired temperature. That means you need a faucet that supports the sprayer attachment.

There is another safety factor involved with being able to shut off the pressurized water source with a nice metal faucet instead of depending on some cheap plastic thing to do that job. If you attach the sprayer device ahead of the faucet then you have the condition that if it breaks or a hose bursts you get water everywhere. On the other hand if the sprayer fails when connected after the faucet you can very quickly get the water shut off.

When you try to attach the sprayer ahead of the faucet you will either get all hot or all cold unless you installed a separate mixer valve. I suspect that by the time you got all through all of that it would cost as much or more than simply replacing the existing faucet with one that supports a sprayer attachment.


How long can I run a vent duct for a new bathroom exhaust on an old house that doesn't vent out properly?

The Panasonic product you listed supports 4" or 6" round duct, according to the installation manual. 13 feet should not be too far at all, especially if it is a relatively straight run. And to be extra safe, use 6" round duct. The rigid kind, not the cheap flex stuff! The increased size will allow less restricted airflow.

Also, try to avoid using any 90 degree turns. The model you referenced has a side port, which means if you install it between joists you should be able to take the duct straight out of the side of the fan and straight through the exterior wall to the vent cap.

In reality, you should be fine with a straight run of 4" rigid duct. But 6" would give you some peace of mind.


Do I need to seal coat part of my new asphalt?

Asphalt doesn't crack due to porosity. It cracks when it expands and contracts due to heat cycles, and as it dries out from age. Poor substrates exacerbate this.

Once they are cracked freezing water has much more of an effect. Then it's able to push with enough force to cause damage.

Sealers mostly preserve the surface appearance. They don't do much at all to increase longevity.

The point is, unless you want to keep the surface visually uniform, I wouldn't worry 'bout it. I'm sure others would.


First is the breaker GFCI or AFCI? Is it fed off a circuit that also has receptacles? Are any of those GFCI receptacles?  A GFCI or AFCI trip is indicative of that problem not necessarily an overcurrent.

It is almost a cliche that when a protective device trips, people presume it is not exactly the condition the protective device is designed to trip for.  And it usually is.  The belief seems to be "ground faults happen to other people" therefore "any GFCI trip is a defective GFCI".

Circuit breakers have published "trip curves" which indicate how long they take to trip at which currents. I just picked the trip curve for a random breaker I found online.  Following the 5-second line, this breaker would trip between 2.5 and 4 times rated current, so in your case 37 to 60 amps, big arm-waving variance obviously, you didn't have a stopwatch. Or as much heat as a dryer. Something is making some heat, and these trips are preventing your house from burning down.  The heat damage might be visible if you search for it.

Unless the cable run is very long, a dead short would flow more current than that, more in the 100-500 amp range, and that would result in an instant (magnetic) trip.  So we can probably exclude that.

It could be a dead short impeded by the small wires commonly used in fixtures.

It could also be a ground fault, returning through some part of the building not intended to be a ground path.  The way to avoid that is make sure your grounds are tip-top.

Any way you slice it, the answer is to slice it.  Divide and conquer.  Divide the circuit in half, see if the problem goes away, subdivide the culprit section, etc. etc.


There are options available.  Maybe they are so new, you just didn't know about them:

Hue Dimmer Switch

Hue Tap Switch


Don't use a pipe wrench on those threads, you'll ruin them. Take a pair of needle nosed pliers open them up and put them in against the barbs in the collar and turn it counter clockwise. that's what the barbs are for. There are also faucet spanner wrenches that will fit in there to loosen the collar. you can gt them at most home stores, see picture below.


Can nonworking half of light set be removed?

In a way, this is kind of like asking, "Doctor, I got a sliver in my finger, what do I do" to which he replies, "get into the office immediately, we need to amputate at the shoulder or higher"

I'm just kidding :)

But YES, you can, however, you really should skip the operation. Pulling the sliver or repairing the fault is more economical, but time consuming. Light sets are so inexpensive today its often worth it to buy a new set.

I tend to keep a few laying around that I can use for spare bulbs. Many bulbs nowadays can blow and still allow the set to work, but this isn't entirely perfect. A bad bulb, or a poorly seated bulb, or a broken bulb lead, or a lead not centered well, or a wire pulled out of the socket is usually the culprit. You can bulb swap unknown bulbs 1 at a time with a single socket you know is working.

While you can rewire a set, you'd now have to tape it, and also ensure you arent increasing the voltage so much that you overpower the remaining bulbs and blow them too. 100 light sets are usually using bulbs for 100 light sets. Turn that into a 50 or 25, and the voltage goes up.

Not worth messing with,and if it is, its more useful to keep the set intact.

The 3 wire part is leading the hot and neutral to another section of the lights, so if it is a 100 set, it is already 50 and 50 :)

Decide if you want the outlet, measure it from end to end with an ohmmeter, and cut and repair the last socket with the outlet if being used, re measure everything before plugging it in, and be sure to keep hot hot, and neutral neutral.

Dont both attempting it if you arent able to do this.


Should pegboard be part of the workbench or attached to the wall behind the workbench?

Pegboard attached to workbench will likely vibrate like crazy while you're trying to file, sand, saw, route, or hammer anything.
It's safer to just put the pegboard on the wall.


Lamp repair is very sensitive to the value of the lamp to you - buying a new lamp or a new-to-you used lamp can often be cheaper than new repair parts, much less assigning a value to your labor. Of course, some new lamps are junk quality brand-new, so...

One method that can work is to transfer parts from a yard sale/thrift-shop lamp, if you find one with the electrical parts in good shape but unloved and low priced for other reasons, like being terminally ugly.

Having been tearing the things apart and putting them together for decades, starting when I was a kid, I'm a lousy source for "how to websites" and I'll let someone who came to it later take a stab at that part.


How much can I hang from a blinds bracket?

Wow, I would be very hesitant to employ that idea. That sounds like a catastrophe waiting to happen. And if your landlord has to come into your apartment and sees what you did s/he might not be happy with your idea at all.

Is it stipulated in your lease that you can't hang anything on the walls? I've lived in many areas and in several states. And from my experience, as long as I fill in any holes and leave the apartment the way it was when I first moved I have never had any problems.

Mirrors are heavy glass. I would want to support eleven pounds on the wall with something that goes into a stud. But if the drywall is in excellent shape this should suffice:

Picture hanger

That has a 75lb weight load capacity. It's just one small nail head that could be filled with toothpaste once you remove it and move away.

I would be surprised if you can't hang anything on your walls. I don't think I would rent an apartment that prohibited me from hanging a small mirror on the wall. Perhaps call your landlord and ask. Maybe s/he will feel better doing her/himself. Good luck!


How to correctly add flooring to insulated attic

The alternative to Eric Simpson's simple solution is a product like the following. (This particular one is from Amazon, but searching for "loft flooring legs" will find many like it.)

Plywood/chipboard is often sold in 2400x600mm (8'x2') sheets precisely for fitting through a hatch to floor a loft.

Also, beware!  Roof trusses are usually designed down to a price, which means using the thinnest pieces of wood which can take the load of the roof.  They are usually not designed to carry substantial loads like a standard floor and a massive pile of junk on top of it.  If you want to put in a pathway and store empty suitcases and spare duvets/sleeping bags that should be fine; a complete floor + piles of old books - not so much.
(Thanks to isherwood for the comment.)


The only thing I personally know of, but don't know its name or manufacturer, that works quite amazing is for cyclone fences only & used by Golf Courses. Their version looks & feels like Astroturf & are just slats or strips that you feed into the cyclone netting. Really impressive at a course I used to play, where you're only 40' from a 4-lane highway.

Otherwise, here's one of many companies who handle fence situations. That one's mostly blankets, but many others are slats or strips...Google - cyclone or chain link fence sound barrier. The Home improvement stores also offer aluminum mini-blind type slats, if you want to hide the sound treatment.

Sound Barrier Companies, may not sell for DIY

http://www.slimwall.com.au/acoustic-properties

https://acousticalsolutions.com/block-your-backyard-noise-with-a-noise-reduction-fence/

http://www.acoustiblok.com/acoustical_fence.php

http://www.soundbarrierfence.com/Sound-Barrier-Insulation.html

Priced DIY Sources

http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/products.asp?dept=28

http://www.fencefabricsonline.com/noise-reducing-fence-cover

http://www.soundproofingamerica.us/products/

Cyclone Inserts, will do privacy and very minimal sound reduction.

http://www.yourfencestore.com/slats/ultimate-fence-slat.asp

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Fencing-Chain-Link-Fencing-Chain-Link-Fence-Slats/N-5yc1vZc81o


What are my options on location of a bathroom fan vent in Wisconsin?

You should not vent out the soffit if you have soffit vents.  The moist air will be sucked into the soffit vents, and cause just as much (or more) trouble as venting directly into the attic.

The best option is to vent out the gable end of the attic. Make sure the ducting is sloped slightly back towards the fan, so condensate can drain. Use rigid metal ducting, not that flexible plastic junk.


Wall Mounted Light Fixture Mounting Plate

You need to adjust the screws so they protrude from the front of the bracket just enough to secure the fixture to the wall with the included cap nuts. Then cut off the part with the screw heads, flush with the back of the bracket. Good luck.

Many wire cutters/strippers have the ability to cut this size bolt and protect the threads.


Is it safe to use a drill bit with a half broken tip?

The fact that part of the bit has broken off does lead one to believe the rest of it may be in danger of disintegrating during use with the potential for bits of metal to go flying in unexpected directions.
Also, the fact that the point appears to be off-center means that you're going to have a hard time getting the bit centered where you want the hole to be and keeping it centered while drilling.
While masonry bits may not be the cheapest bit in the aisle, it seems that now would be a sensible time to replace this one.


It appears that you're taking individual wires out of cables and running them in different directions. Don't do that.
From S1 (see labeled image, below), you've got your red & black travelers running toward S2, but you've got the white (I presume that's what the orange line represents) going to C5. Disconnect the white/neutral from C5 and allow it to pass through the box and on with the travelers to S2 as below.
From C5 to C1, it appears that you're using 12/2 and repurposing the white wire as a traveler. Replace this piece of cable with 12/3 (remove the 12/2 so there's no confusion in the future), carry the neutral from C5's box through to C1's box.
It appears that you've got 12/3 from C1 to S2, but that you've again split the wires from the cable to attempt to use them for different purposes. Don't do that! Use this piece of 12/3 (in its entirety, black, red AND white) to continue to carry your supply power to S2 and wire up the 3-way switch there properly.
Now that you've got your travelers properly set, you've got switched power at S2. Run an additional 12/2 from there to C1, pig-tailing the black/hot to the hot on the bulb (as you've got) and add a pig-tail from the white/neutral to the neutral on the bulb.
You should be good to go at C2, C3 and C4 with exactly what you've got.
Back at C5, make sure you've disconnected the existing white/neutral from the switch and tied it into the new 12/3 running toward S2. Tie the white/neutral coming from C4 to the bulb on C5.
Don't laugh, I drew the lettering with my thumb-operated track ball.
Additionally, I'm presuming that you've got the bare ground wire properly connected. The grounds should be connected from cable to cable, and it should be pig-tailed to each device (switch or light). It should be connected in a daisy chain, following the supply of power. You may be tempted to connect all the grounds in C5 together (both those coming from S1 and from C4). I do not believe you should do that, though I'm not certain that it will cause harm - I'll let the electricians chime in on that. I wouldn't do it, and it would work properly with them separated. I'm pretty sure it would be safe if they're connected there, but I'm not sure that it's code compliant that way.


Why can't I get a torsion spring tension level that works for having the garage door both open and closed?

Do you have the right size and number of torsion springs? If your spring is too strong then that might explain this behavior.


Is a negative reading from a non-contact voltage detector sufficient?

The following should be sufficient to determine that it's safe to work inside a switch box.

With the breaker(s) for this box turned on, touch the NCVT to the wallplate or insert it into the "hot" (narrower) blade socket of the electrical outlet you'll be working with. The NCVT should indicate live wiring. This is primarily a test of the tester itself; it should light on a known hot circuit.
Turn the breaker(s) that provide power to this box off.
Return to the box and repeat the test; the NCVT should not indicate live wires. If it does, you flipped the wrong breaker or didn't flip enough breakers to make the entire box "cold".
Open the wallplate, and touch the NCVT to all screw terminals on all devices in the box. The indicator should not light; if it does, you missed breakers (or there's a more serious wiring problem like shared neutrals).

At this point, I'd be confident of not getting hurt working on the box. If you REALLY wanted to be sure, you could take a multimeter and test the AC voltage between all terminals on each individual device; all readings should be zero. This may be necessary if you suspect a voltage leak (faulty breaker, miswiring joining unrelated branch circuits together); an NCVT requires 50VAC to indicate "live", but 45V can still give you a jolt with sweaty/wet hands (remember that a car battery, only 12VDC, is an effective instrument of torture).


Pressure balance Am Stand hot and cold inlets are switched side to side. No cold water, only HOT. Remedy?

Possibly whoever originally installed the shower valve realized that the hot and cold supplies were switched and they installed the cartridge in the valve in the opposite orientation than normal. This made the control work in the usual way. When you replaced the cartridge you installed it in the correct orientation for hot on the left and so it no longer longer works


There are a lot of products that fall under the terms "window sash balance pivot bar" and many different sizes as well.

Perhaps you will be able to measure yours to match more precisely the ones available. On the outside chance that the image shows your item, it was located on aawindow.com


What kind of light bulb does this lamp use?

IKEA provides a tool to help identify bulb size. The one you need is listed as a group: (E12, E14, E17 or SES)

The 12 in E12, for example, means a diameter of 12mm. This is just a bit under 1/2". Carefully measure the size of the threaded cylinder and you should know which size you need. E14 will be about 9/16". E17 will be about 11/16". E14 and SES are the same.

E14/SES seems to be the most common and is probably your huckleberry.


What is the most effective method for getting rid of carpet moths?

So, I seem to have had some success (after two months of seeing around 6 a day, I'm now seeing about 4 a week).
Tools (my rating out of 5)
5. Sticky pheromone traps - make sure to get them designed specifically for carpet moths.  Put two traps in each room & replace with a new one after a couple of months or if the stickyness is reduced.  Be very careful not to step on them or flip them over because that will ruin their stickyness.
4. Small handheld wireless vacuum cleaner - it is difficult to kill the moths, especially when they are on a wall, without making a huge mess of your walls.  The moths are quite delicate and make a dirty mark when squashed.  The moths don't fly away quickly either so it is really easy to catch them like this.  Even when they are flying, I have found this to be the most effective means of getting rid of them.  When you see one new one, look out for more as there could be a new hatching or possibly the conditions are right for mating.
3. Isolate outbreak! - close the windows and doors to the room so they don't spread to other rooms.  Apparently they stay close to where the lava is and breed there so it is quite feasible to keep them contained.  Keeping your windows shut will stop them going through one of your windows and into another room that way.  Also, I believe the pheromone traps could help attract new moths from outside but I guess they should just get stuck to the trap so maybe not so much of a concern.
3. Vacuum the room often and thoroughly with a powerful vacuum  I vacuum once every two weeks normally but, it takes a while.  I think this is very effective but I give it a 3 because it is time consuming and a good powerful vacuum costs about £300 however in terms of effectiveness this is good.  I did consider one of the automated vacuum cleaners but I have a lot of stairs where they are not very effective.
2. Mark location of sightings - to make it easier to know where to look next time.  I use post it notes on the wall.  It helped me work out where to keep an eye out.
1. Fly swatter - sometimes you see them flying around.  I bought a pack of 10 for £10 and left one in every room, in the hallways etc.  When flying they are really difficult to hit and I found the vacuum cleaner more effective, although when you're relaxing of an evening it is nicer just to not run upstairs to get the vacuum cleaner!
0. Bug spray - I sprayed one room a lot.  It didn't get rid of them, it may have lessened the numbers but seemed to affect my skin and my breathing when in that room for a couple of weeks afterwards.  If you need to use that room, have asthma, pets or children I don't think this is a good option.
Good luck, I do think it may be a few more months before I'm completely rid of them and quite possibly I will always have to keep an eye open (apparently the neighbours have them and they are a particular problem in my city so new seeds for infestation could quite easily occur.


Why is neutral wired to ground at this switch?

The ground wire is ONLY for emergencies. The 'return' from an appliance or light MUST be a separate neutral wire. Re: "Any help on explaining why this is set up this way" is very simple: THEY WIRED IT UNSAFELY IN VIOLATION OF THE ELECTRICAL CODE!

Yes, you need to run more wire. People do all sorts of crazy things. The NEC exists to prevent fires and electrocution.

You can look up the current electrical code at NFPA.org (free registration required) but there's no search function. Read about grounding and bonding in Section 250.

I'm not quite clear what wires go where, but the outside light needs a switched hot, and a neutral to return from that.
In previous versions of the NEC, you could have the hot and neutral come to the box holding the light, and lead the hot from the light box to the switch then back to the light. IIUC, this is no longer allowed.

The only way to do it now is to have hot go to the switch, then to the light, and run a neutral from the same branch circuit to the light. Typically this runs with the switched hot wire.

So-white (neutral), black (hot) and bare ground to the switch box, black to switch, neutrals connected together, grounds connected together (but not to neutral) then white (neutral), black (switched hot) and bare ground to the light. If you don't have enough conductors for this, you need to run more wire.


It's hard to say if it's a structural problem without more information.  The crack in the photo is not necessarily a structural problem.  Most likely it's related to less than ideal subgrade, concrete mix, control joint spacing, or concrete curing conditions.  Concrete is always going to crack.  That crack is excessive, but most likely not a structural concern.  If you notice something translating up the structure -- cracks in the walls, or sloping floors -- then it would be a greater concern.


Are you sure that the insulation is not blocking the soffit vents?

If the insulation is pushed too tightly into the soffit area, the vent won't work properly causing the moisture to build up, causing the frost on the underside of the roof.


AC start up causes lights on separate circuits to blink

Tyson's comment could be it, if so, he should post it as an answer. I'll list off a collection of questions and reasons why it could matter.

What year was the house built?
Are you running the unit on the same wall outlet you have been for 6 years?
What else have you added to the home in the last 6 year, and how much of it is on currently?

Where I'm going with this is a few areas:

1.) If the house has aluminum wiring, # 2 is more likely

2.) Running an A/C of that size is taxing a typical 15 Amp circuit (assuming this is on a typical 15 Amp circuit), over years of "abuse" connections degrade especially with aluminum. The wall outlet/wiring/breaker can be getting hot and drawing more current. It wouldn't hurt to secure power and check connections

3.) If you've added other computers, TV's other A/C's, other appliances, etc, they all draw power, it can add to the load to the panel, thus impacting incandescent bulbs on the same panel

4.) did you add a Hot Tub? Any other NEW breakers to your panel? (still part of #3)

5.) Ensure the only thing running on the same breaker as the A/C is the A/C.

6.) Turn off things that are not needed and run a test. Helps to rule out most of 1-5.

7.) Don't use extension cords. Even though appliance cords will work, it will still cause more voltage drop over a longer run than the wall outlet *(thus, more heat)

8.) What kind of Bulbs are flickering? Are these different bulbs than last year? They might be more 'sensitive'

9.) Per Tyson's comment, have you had any severe windstorms in the last season? it could absolutely be on the pole side if so, or in the meter as noted

10.) As commented by Ed Beal regarding the starter cap, the unit itself can be wearing out. Again, if a starter cap is bad the unit typically wont start and you may see a flicker when it tries, if it is going bad but marginal, you can see flickering due to transients on the line while the compressor is starting. Also, along these lines, the compressor itself will wear out over time. (enamel breaks down, lubrication breaks down) even a dirty filter (for air or for coolant) can increase the load on the unit resulting in more power being drawn.


Ceiling drywall for basement with 48 inch oc joists

I think the best choice would be 2x3 strapping, here is my rationale.

It would be very expensive to run ceiling joists between the beams, parallel to the beams, so let's rule that out off the bat.  You will want to run something perpendicular to the beams.

You could install blocking between the beams - bottom edge of the blocking even with the bottom edge of the beams - or strapping under the beams.

The 2x6 blocking considered in the question is overkill.  Since this blocking only needs to support the weight of the drywall, you could go with something much smaller, and you'd only need to toe nail it, joist hangers not necessary.  I think you'd want 2x3 blocking spaced 16" OC, and you'd probably put the 3" face down, so you have more surface to screw into at the joints.

Strapping is usually done with 1x3's spaced 16" OC, but that's normally across 16" or 24" joist spans.  I think you'd want to bump up to 2x3 strapping to avoid sagging.  There is an added bonus with thicker strapping: you get a decent amount of space between the drywall and the beams.  Properly protected, you can run pipes and wires perpendicular to the beams in this space - a big advantage when finishing a basement.

So with strapping instead of blocking, you

lose a little ceiling height
gain some wiring / plumbing space
save a lot of time installing

To me, strapping wins.


Economical jail for not allowing centipedes

I'm not sure exactly what to recommend in terms of a Jali other than to suggest that you find one that has fine screening. Centipedes can fit through very tiny spaces.
More importantly in ridding your home of centipedes is removing or at least reducing their food source which is spiders and insects. It also helps to reduce moisture as much as possible.
I don't know how you feel about insecticides but there are a number available that are effective against centipedes. I use a foundation spray (Home Defense by Ortho) each spring around the outside of my home that is very effective in repelling ants and spiders. It claims to also repel centipedes. You might want to try something like like that.


Is it necessary to put a special egress window in a basement bedroom if there's already a window above ground

An egress window has nothing to do with a window being below above/below grade. Egress means "go out". An egress window is a window that someone can safely exit in the event of a fire where there could be blocked paths through the rest of the house. Egress windows are typically required for all bedrooms in a modern dwelling regardless of where they are located and are typically sized to fit a firefighter fully suited up in firefighting gear.

If there is sufficient clearance to add a basement window that meets the qualifications for egress without digging according to local building code (distance from the floor is probably the biggest determining factor in your case if your basement has tall ceilings), then this would qualify as an egress window and you would not need to dig or add an associated egress window well.


How should I store my new Torx screwdriver set?

Tool Belt

Tool Bucket

Tool Box

Tool Chest

Tool Cabinet

Tool Truck


The remote switches the light and fan off using just a single power source. It doesn't rely on 2 like you had. You don't have any use for the red wire any more nor the switch.


You really need a router.  Either a laminate router (the are small and easy to handle) or any router really.  Next you need a trim bit.  They have MANY different types.  Flush cut, 45, 25.5, finish bit.  The finish bit will leave a 1/16 laminate left to sand/file, or you could set the 45 bit to get almost flush.

Another way is with a sharp blade in your knife and a piece of wood.  Take a scrap piece of ply 4" wide and how ever long you need.  Place flat on the "face" of the cabinet and let about an inch hang over the edge.  We are using the wood as "backer" when we score the laminate.  Now take the knife and score the underside of the laminate a few times pressing the knife to the laminate and the lam to the wood, using the edge of the cabinet as your guide.  Do this on a practice piece to get "a feel for it".  Either cut all the way through, or score enough and just snap the lam.

* Edit *
If you do use a router, apply 3/4 masking tape (or blue tape) to whatever surface the bearing will ride on.  This will prevent any marks the bearing will leave, mostly a "shiny" line.


Range Hood Transformer Replacement to LED

The halogen bulbs are 12 volts at 20 watts. Almost certainly the "High" setting is 12 VAC, and the "Low" setting is the same 12 VAC but through a half wave rectifier (just a diode). So, if you want to use the current switch and processor board, you'd need something that could be driven by 12VAC, both with and without a half wave rectifier.

The problem is that half-wave-rectified AC is a lot different from pure AC; it has a large DC component to it. Some LED drivers could handle it, others couldn't. I doubt you'll find a manufacturer that will sell their product as compatible with this, as it's too rare an application for them to worry about. So, you can try various products, but you may find they won't work, and you may even find that the "Low" setting damages the bulb/circuit.

An alternative would be to install your own switch, but getting it to look good would be tough.


How Much Attic Insulation? (R-value vs Ceiling Bowing)

5/8" drywall on 24-inch centers is standard practice across the industry. Unless you have some weird early-version panels with poor sag resistance, 15" of cellulose will not cause a problem.

I'm with Daniel Griscom, however. R-49 is in the ballpark of what we install in new homes here in frigid Minnesota (regularly seeing -30F in the winter). It's almost comically excessive in your case. You should look for something in the R-20 to R-30 range as your sweet spot (bang for the buck, ideal payoff, whatever). If you're feeling chilly when it gets way down in the 60s like it does there, go nuts. Just don't expect to see the value in your "heating" bill. :)


Yes, you can do that and it will swap the power to the light and fan. Just remember to turn off the power at the breaker before doing any work.


How should I deal with lumber size differences when replacing floor joists?

In my experiences there in no way to control how much a given piece of wood shrinks, that is if it has enough moisture content (MC) to shrink. If you could get it tested with a moisture meter for MC and it is around 6-8% preferably less, you can cut the joist to size for it will not shrink anymore. If the MC is 10% or more it will shrink and it will take a few weeks to get it to loose enough MC to not crack your tile. If you have kind of time to install the joists and wait for them to shrink in place in a heated environment, all the better. If you don't have that kind of time, then you will be better off purchasing LVL or other engineered lumber that does not move that much at all, unless it is really saturated.


Over the range microwave outlet lost power

Look for a GFCI outlet upstream that has tripped. Kitchens are full of them, but they also turn up in non-intuitive places like bathrooms, laundry rooms, beside electrical panels and garages.

Oh, and I just remembered that some breakers can have tripped without looking tripped. If the gfci trick doesn't work, go through your panel and turn each breaker off and on.

(Added to this answer b/c comments...)

If all that doesn't work, there's some circuit investigation needed. I'll let you decide if this is the kind of work you want to do or hand off to a pro. Some of this involves meters and live wires, so caution is appropriate.

Get into the microwave junction box and verify with a voltmeter that there's no current flowing.

I know you said the oven is on the same circuit and works, but humor me and start at the panel. (Danger alert! Open panels are hazardous! Main power off!) Check the connection of the microwave circuit to the breaker. Check that the breaker is seated properly. Temporarily move the microwave wire onto a different (but same amperage) breaker to see if it was your breaker that failed. (Please tell us if your breakers are Zinsco or Federal Pacific.)

If you seem to be getting power out of the panel into the microwave circuit, then some work follows. You'll need to follow the wire from the microwave junction box on its way back to the panel. (You might be lucky and find that the first one is just below at the stove and that the issue is located there.) A tone generator (under $100) will help a lot. (Most inexpensive tone generators want the power to be off, so strongly suggest you turn off the whole house when you're tracing.)

You need to identify every junction box that the wire goes into and hopefully find a disconnection. Look for loose wire nuts, burnt smells, charred wire... anything out of the ordinary. In an ideal world, you'll find a bad connection and be able to fix it. Otherwise, you'll have found a stretch of wire where one junction box is live and the other is dead. (Sadly, there are cases where people (jerks!) bury junction boxes or connections under drywall.) It's rare but possible that wire in the wall has been broken -- vermin chewing, or a nail that partly broke the wire that's finally failed.

At this point, you want to be careful that you've accurately mapped your wiring, but you're probably in need of a new section of wire from the live junction box to the dead one. I'd seriously consider calling in a pro at this point to make sure everything is correct.


How to remove about 1/4" of wood from in-place beam?

The most popular tool for the job is a power planer, which you're unlikely to own unless you hang tons of doors. The equivalent hand tool would be a bench or jack plane. Overall hand planes are more useful, but high quality ones have eye popping prices.

The most common term would be planing (i.e. to plane). Though just to make things confusing the machine for one side of a board flat is a jointer, while the planer makes the other side parallel to the first. So in wood working (as opposed to carpentry) the operations are called jointing and planing. Most people call portable planers "lunchbox planers" because of their appearance, and stick to power planer or electric planer for the handheld versions. That's not universal though, so expect some crossover results from search engines.

Also if you should ever be in a situation where you need to lift a lunchbox planer use both hands and lift with your knees, not your back. That name is extremely misleading; they weigh a ton.


Leaky outdoor faucet when using spray nozzle

Actually, it sounds more like a siphon or vacuum breaker working fine. It's not leaking with pressure on. When you turn off the sillcock and release pressure on the hose, it moves the water in the hose away from the sillcock, creating a vacuum at the faucet, which causes the siphon breaker valve to open. Then the water rebounds a bit and some comes out. They have only failed when they leak under pressure, or do not open at all. The brass cap thing on top of this sillcock is the built-in vacuum-breaker. The type described in Steven's answer seems more likely given where you say water is coming out. In either case, I don't see any sign of failure from your description of the behavior.


Is it OK to turn off power to a fuel furnace?

Yes, it is fine to turn off the power, and you should. The wires going to the thermostat are low-voltage (typically 24V AC), but connecting the wrong ones can still potentially damage the control circuitry.

Most furnaces made in the last 10-20 years use electronic ignition, so there is no pilot light to worry about (if that's what you are worried about). Even with a pilot light, I don't believe it would be an issue, but at worst case you'd have to re-light the pilot.


The user manual has this in the Control panel section (page 17):

  Temperature Control Slider in refrigerator chamber
  The temperature control slider is used to
  adjust the refrigerator and freezer temperature, the slide on the thermostat is used to
  balance the distribution of air flow volume
  of each compartment. When the slider is
  turned down, there will be more air flow in the
  refrigerator and less air flow in the freezer, so
  the refrigerator will be cool faster. For normal
  operating use, keep the slider in the centre normal position. You should not need to
  adjust the temperature control dial if the slider
  is kept at the normal setting.

Is it likely that the slider control is simply at a bad setting?

Other manufacturer information is here.


Why is my smart switch tripping the breaker?

You don't have neutral in that box!

Yellow/green is the one wire whose color code is is standardized worldwide: yellow/green, green or bare.c   It always means safety earthing.

Anywhere you might have used those for neutral, you must correct that.  Whoever taught you that is wrong, and full of shortcuts which are unsafe.

Misusing ground for neutral is what's causing the breaker trip.  Even the ones that "seem to work" are still a problem and will still tend to cause trips.

The black wire is also not neutral. Since there are only 2 wires besides earth, the two wires can only be supply always-hot, and switched-hot to the lamp.

In this box, there is no neutral because it is a switch loop.  However it also looks like in surface conduit, so it may be feasible to open up the conduit and change the cable to 3-core+earth, which can include neutral.

Regardless, those switches are wrong here

Since you don't have neutral, you need smart switches which support lack of neutral.  I recommend going down to the local Wickes and seeing what they have.

The switch in your picture will not do.  It is a cheap Chinese no-brand thing that you mail-ordered or bought from a dodgy shop who smuggled them in.  Note the complete lack of certifications by any reputable testing lab such as TUV or CSA.    See the CE and RoHS marks?  That is not any promise by the importer that they self-certify, and are taking legal responsibility for, the item being compliant with EU regs.  And guess what. You're the importer.

This thing will cheerfully kill you or burn your house down.  I wouldn't want to be answering inquiry why I fit this particular thing instead of a listed unit.

It's not an anti-mail-order conspiracy.  The conspiracy is Alibaba's, because their stuff is such complete junk and they don't even try to meet safety standards.   The Alibaba junkstream feeds AliExpress, eBay and Amazon Marketplace (anything that doesn't say "ships from and sold by amazon.com"). Feel free to buy from, say, Real Amazon.


How should I deal with an animal in the attic?

Not knowing where the house is limits the advice.  However since it has a flat roof, I'm going to assume it's not anywhere where it snows a lot.

You need to get a professional for several reasons.

In most states, as a landlord, you're required to do something and the only way you can demonstrate due diligence with something like this is court is to hire a pro.
Animals carry lots and lots of nasty things, not just rabies (as if that isn't bad enough).  If you trap it you risk injury, if you poison it then at some point you have to remove the carcass and ... gross.
The professional should be up on whatever obscure state and local laws affect removing the animal.

Most importantly, if the pro gets rabies, it's not your problem.

Edit:  Yeah, I know it a Do-It-Yourself site, but sometimes the right advice is "Don't Do-It-Yourself"


The wire labeled BL in both images, should be the C wire. W and BR activate the heat relay. G activates the blower time delay relay. PK takes 24v to the thermostat.

If you're looking for the C wire, because you want to install a fancy new WiFi thermostat.  Make sure the transformer can support the additional load, before you connect the thermostat. It doesn't look like there's a fuse on the transformer, and you wouldn't want to burn up the transformer.


What is the cause of this voltage difference between my breaker panel and AC unit?

Conduit is a perfectly acceptable grounding path
EMT conduit is a valid grounding method.  I would be surprised to see a ground wire inside EMT - nothing wrong with it, just would be "belt AND suspenders".
However, it may be appropriate if you are in weather conditions where the EMT is rusting - it's possible for the clamps/bonds to rust out and give you a poor grounding path.  You can go with green stranded wire (which is easier to pull) or bare solid wire (which is harder to pull, and will make future pulls harder, but is better under "conduit fill rules".)
When I say "pulling" I mean most people run a stiff "fishing tape" down and use it to pull a wire through.  I usually don't bother, or don't want to push my metal tape into something hot.  So I just push the wire down the conduit and  do a whole lot of coaxing and sometimes a little light disassembly of a conduit joint. Intermediate access points are very helpful, e.g. that junction box you mentioned.
Since you disconnected the conduit from the A/C unit, you have broken the grounding path if it was good before. If you had a ground fault, it would be "pulling the chassis toward one pole or the other" and the two hot-chassis measurements would total ~240V.  However since it is not, and they are equal, I would say you are detecting the weakness of your grounding path.
I would not tolerate that for a minute; disassemble and wire-brush it as much as you can, and consider running that ground wire.  #10 should suffice for all circuits, and hardware stores sell bare #8 solid.    I would use green stranded #10.
You can also replace rusted sections of the conduit, but that requires pulling the wires out.


Is a duplex receptacle counted as one or two outlets for branch calculations?

There is a limit on the number of plugs for non-residential projects.

NEC 220.14(I) Each yoke is counted at 180 VA.  If there is one outlet, two outlets (most common) or 3 outlets it is still counted as 180 VA.  If there are (4) or more outlets then it is counted as 90 VA per outlet.

What you are describing, a double gang box, with (2) duplex outlets will equal 360 VA.  Having a total of (3) pairs of duplex outlets will be 360 * 3 = 1080 VA.  Since each duplex is 180 VA it can also be counted as 180 * 6 = 1080 VA.

The long power strips that you are used to with 10 or 12 outlets is commonly called plugmold.  In the NEC it is referred to as a fixed multioutlet assembly.  Per NEC 220.14(H) the load depends on if the plugs get used simultaneously or not.  Simultaneous use equals 180 VA per foot of length.  Non-simultaneous use equals 180 VA per 5 foot length.


Should we sand a fence to restain it with a solid stain?

Many fence treatments are intended for use on rough sawn wood as they soak in better. Assuming your fence is made of sawn timber, you shouldn't sand it.

Also the pressure treatment doesn't soak in all the way (or at least not at full strength) so you wouldn't want to remove much material.

A pressure washer or a brush would be a good idea, especially combined with detergent (and then a good rinse, consider what's underneath when you choose detergent). It's possible a pressure washer will remove flakes of old treatment, or even loose bits of wood. This isn't necessarily a bad thing as it will give you a good surface.


Measuring resistance on an element in a live circuit can produce weird results.

Disconnect one of the wires from the switch (or both if they're molded into a single connector), then measure the switch again while the inducer blower is running. The furnace controls won't detect the draft and will probably throw an error, but that's fine.

Switches can fail to a relatively high resistance state, but I'd guess it's unlikely.


First, to bust a rumor, if it's the same model/SKU, it's the same part. If you see a "549E" model at Home Depot, and a dealer also sells a 549E, then it's the real McCoy. However, they may well make a "547H" model that's been shaved for Home Depot (it may even be made by a different manufacturer.)

The big-box stores are very tough on vendors, on both price and return policy.  A such, many vendors build "Built for big-box" shaved models of their products, with cost-cutting shortcuts that they would never put into a dealer product.

Support and parts are nonexistent.  We get that stuff donated, and it's the same story - you call the dealer, they hear the model number and say  "That's a Home Depot special, there are no OEM parts for that." It's a throwaway.  The zero parts commonality suggests to me a different manufacturer altogether.

So is Pella making a shaved version of their window by the thousands for Home Depot?  Oh, very likely.  Hundreds of manufacturers do it.  Part of the deal is they show up on pallets, and obviously are not custom-fit.  Some replacement window manufacturers are able to build to your dimensions.

That said, it really pays to search for products more broadly than big-box stores and well-advertised "replacement window" manufacturers.  Both of them are complete ripoffs, and they are exploiting the fact that you just don't know what else to do, and this seems easiest.  They profit by seeming easiest.

Also, keep in mind the whole "replacement window" game is itself kind of a racket.  It's the nature of replacement windows to need to be replaced sooner than you'd like.


My basement toilet and shower will not drain after it rains

If your basement has a back flow preventer when the water level is high the pressure in the line from a raised water level is probably the cause. I had this happen, built the bathroom in the summer, it worked great until several days of rain then no draining like you have. Whatever you do don't make the mistake I did and think the back flow valve was plugged , when I opened it up got all the brown trout from the line above. I ended up having to add a pump to the system if I remember correctly it was around 500$ for the tank& pump a small one but we never had any problems after that.


How do I keep this old shower pan water tight

Nothing but caulk (100% Silicone), is the hands-down best I've found.

The Wonderboard would sit (actually stand-on and rest-on before screwing down) on the Terrazzo's top and back lip in a squished-out caulking bed for drain backup flood waterproofing.

You really don't want any firmer type of gap-creating "gasket". Then, your Redguard, Thinset & Tile overlap that seam. They are all that really makes everything actually waterproof.

You can then chose to either rest your tile down to & on the inner and lower secondary Terrazzo lip above the pan floor or you can raise it slightly to grout a larger joint. Neither is any different in waterproofing, but not grouting means no ugly possible breakaway crack later.


How long will Concrete bond together when poured over multiple days?

It's either a continuous pour or it's not. Whether you have to 'bond' (use rebar/scarify) depends on the thickness of the new pour, the existing substrate and the expected conditions it will be subjected to.
Excerpt from Bonded or Not, a discussion on pavement restoration using concrete overlays, by William D. Palmer Jr.: (concreteconstruction.net)

Bonded overlays become part of the underlying existing pavement—they work together. They are 2 to 5 inches thick and are usually applied to strengthen an existing pavement or for preventive maintenance. Bonded overlays cannot be used if the existing pavement is in poor condition.
Unbonded overlays, 4 to 11 inches thick depending on the desired life span and anticipated traffic, are a pavement structure on their own—the existing pavement is only used as a supporting base. This means they are thicker than an unbonded overlay, but are the only choice if the pavement is in less than good condition.

How long you have until you must take into account other considerations for concrete to self-bond; about two hours maximum. After that, it's way beyond 'begun' to set. Your previous pour should have left some rebar sticking out, if you knew it was going to take multiple days pours.
The longest you can wait is forever (with the caveat of proper surface prep), the longest you should wait is not at all.


Leveling-smoothing an exterior cement patio

The only good ways to get a truly smooth surface at this point is to 1) cover the slab with tile, or 2) grind it smooth.

You can install porcelain or quarry tile for a truly finished surface. Obviously there's some expense and effort involved with this option.

On several occasions I've seen businesses bring in companies to grind their concrete to a polish finish. It's visually attractive and very smooth.


The first question to be asked whether the whole roof needs replacing - if the screws have rusted out, what condition are the roofing sheets in? Exposed-fastener sheet-steel roofing is NOT a long-term roof like concealed fastener standing-seam. It's an inexpensive, short-life-span roof. (If it was actually tin, you'd strip it off, take it to a scrapper, and put on just about any roof you'd like with the proceeds.)

As for whether you hire it done or do it yourself, that's mostly up to you, your ability to work safely and/or equip yourself to work safely, and your willingness to pay to not be bothered, or take the time to save money. Don't scrimp on safety - falling off a roof can be fatal or very, very expensive in both money and future incapacity. If you hire someone else, make sure that they are actually insured for the work.

I have cleaned up (caulked and re-torqued, as some screws were leaking post-install and it was simpler to do them all that to try and sort exactly which ones) an exposed fastener roof of about 16 squares (1600 square feet) as a DIY job. I dropped a chunk of change on climbing gear (harness, static line, locking carabiner, rescue ascender) at the outset, and I think I replaced my failing cordless drill with a brand-spanking new one as well. It wasn't bad, but I'm not you, either. Ultimately, what you choose to do is your choice.


Put a junction box in a location the wiring can reach.  Make a splice inside the junction box to get to where you need to go.  Splices are no big deal if done right - really.

This location must be accessible without dismantling any part of the house.  So it can't be behind trim or drywall.  But putting it inside a closet with floating shelves is fine.   If all the person has to do is empty out a closet and lift out a shelf.

The junction box will have a blank cover, unless it's in the bathroom.

Or, if it really makes you bat crazy to have a blank cover, then fine.  Use a deep box at least 20 cubic inches.  Make the bathroom splice and push it into the back of the box.  Then bring over another circuit and attach a receptacle to that circuit. That's allowed as long as the box has enough cubic inches to handle all the wires.  Don't mix the neutrals.


A line T-ing off my water heater drain line. What might it be for?

Most Likely - the return line of a hot water recirculation loop. ie, "instant hot water" by means of a circulating pump which pulls hot water from the hot line and returns it to the hot water heater through this tee on the drain line, after running it through the supply lines to your faucets. Given your location 2 (3?) stories above the heater this seems very likely (no guarantee that it's working, but the system was installed at some point, anyway.)

So yes, it's full of hot water under pressure. Sounds like decent workmanship if it's fully insulated.

If you do not have a long wait for hot water, it's probably functioning.


Installing thermostat but can't disconnect power

No it is not normal. There is normally a disconnect between the power supping the condenser and the condenser itself. It should be near the condenser.  (the condenser is the outdoor portion of the A/C side of your system. I am certain that the disconnect you need is the box shown in the second picture.  Open the front and pull out the plug.  This should kill the power to the transformer.  Also you could find the breaker in the house panel that supplies the furnace and secure the power there.


Reinforcing water damaged wooden fence posts, will it last, will it be strong enough?

The best fix is to replace the posts with new posts correctly set in concrete.  if you want very long-life use concrete posts.

I can't say if your steel post will be strong enough, because I don't know how strong you need it to be.

sheet-steel buttresses are used to reinforce rotting power poles, so your plan is not totally unprecedented.

You will probably need two bolts 500mm apart to hold the post well.  Given that the ground is likely to be soft near where the post is rotten I would go at-least half the height of the fence underground.

TLDR: disconnect the rails set the fence panels aside then rent a post hole digger and replace the posts, back-fill the holes with "instant concrete", dress the top of these foundations to slope away from the post.


Is it hazardous to leave a hole in the wall for a week or two?

Breathing in the dust isn't healthy, but you've basically already created all there is to create. You should vacuum* it up and fill the hole whenever you get around to doing it. No rush.

If you patch the hole properly, you will probably create more dust patching the hole than you did in making it.

If you want to scare yourself look up the effects of breathing in silica dust.

*a shopvac with a fine particle bag or hepa filter is best for vacuuming, as drywall dust is very fine


Multi-speed motors are rated at their speed on high, so high will be around 1075.  The other speeds will typically be around 100 rpm lower than the next speed, so you don't get a lot of range in that speed.  The speeds are also designed so that with the same load applied to the motor (like a fan blade), the different speeds give less power to the motor, so it naturally slows down.

If the motor is loaded more or less than it was designed for the change in speeds will vary.  I've never tried this, but I suspect the no-load speed on low will be very close to the high speed, and you will get more separation in the speeds the more the motor is loaded.


Kind of contractor to hire to install new basement window, where there was none before?

I would start with Architect or Structural Engineer because for that kind of work you're going to need permits, which means detailed drawings for the applications.  They would probably have recommendations for a General Contractor that would be able to do the job (with or without subcontractors).


Preventing a door from slowly opening itself

It is indeed gravity.  You can verify this with a accurate level (test your level by putting against the hinge side door jamb, noting the bubble position.  Then invert the level (put the opposite face against the jamb and you should get the same bubble offset) The jamb frame is likely canted.  Fixing a canted jamb is very involved: removing door, trim casing from both sides, removing shims and reinstalling new ones.

Fortunately, there is a quick-and-dirty fix for doors that are lightly canted: Cause a hinge to bind (slightly).  This will allow the door to 'stick' in position.  Try this on one hinge at a time (I like to start at the middle (of 3), so that the door stays in place.  Remove the hinge pin, remove the door side leaf.  Using a adjustable wrench, adjust the wrench to clamp over one loop (of the (still in place) jamb side hinge).  Pry that loop a bit out of alignment.  Replace the door side leaf and pin (it should be a little tight). Test door.  Readjust as needed (too tight or not tight enough)  Other loops of the door side hinge can be similarly adjusted.

If your jamb side screws are marginal, (they move while prying) you should replace them with longer ones, especially on the center screw (of the 3).  A 2 1/2 inch screw will lock down the hinge to the internal framing.

Alternatively, if you have access to a vice, you can bend one loop of a removed hinge leaf.

Finally, if you have enough door gap at the hinge side and its clear to you which way to tilt the door (from your level check), you can correct its 'lean' by 'tipping' the door back (towards) vertical by bending ALL the loops of the jamb side of the hinge away from the door.  This will reduce the door-to-jamb gap.  You would typically do this to only a top or bottom hinge (to reverse the tilt)


Adding light to existing outlet controlled by switch

If your walls are open this will be easy. Adding a light is legal in my state. With the power off pull the outlet,  add a piece of romex and run up to where you want your light switch, have at least 6" of wire at the outlet and the box connect the new wires to the outlet or pigtail the wires connecting the black hot wire to the brass colored screw and the white or silver colored sctee to the white or neutral wire, the grounds should be pig tailed and then connected to the outlet. Take another piece of wire from the new switch box location to the location you want your light, if this will be a plug in type of light wire the outlet the same as the first (color wise but no pigtails are needed) , now to connect the switch, pigtail the grounds and connect a short length of the bare ground to the switch yoke it should be a green screw, tie both white wires together (wire nut or other listed device) last connect one of the black wires to one screw and the other black wire to the other screw ( if other than a standard snap switch/ or an electronic switch the neutral may be needed).
Note wiring below 8' is supposed to be covered by 1/2" sheet rock or plywood but I have seen so many garages that the wiring is exposed I usually go with what is there. Conduit can also be used to protect the wire and that can be left exposed legally. If the walls are covered it will be a bit tougher but still can be done, you will need old work boxes. These boxes you cut a hole between studs that just barely allows the box to slide in put the wires in the box slide it in the hole then 2 screws tighten the wings or fins depending on the brand. Now turn the power back on and plug in your light. Note a pigtail is a junction of wires that usually has the conductors tied together with an extra piece of wire to connect directly to the switch or outlet. Hopes this helps.


The pertinent parts of Article 680 I have quoted here:

  680.12 Maintenance Disconnecting Means
  One or more means to simultaneously disconnect all un-grounded conductors shall be provided for all utilization equipment other than lighting. Each means shall be readily accessible and within sight from its equipment and shall be located at least 1.5 m (5 ft) horizontally from the inside walls of a pool, spa, or hot tub unless separated from the open water by a permanently installed barrier that provides a 1.5 m (5 ft) reach path or greater. This horizontal distance is to be measured from the water’s edge along the shortest path required to reach the disconnect.

  680 Part IV. Spas and Hot Tubs 680.40 General
  Electrical installations at spas and hot tubs shall comply with the provisions of Part I and Part IV of this article.

680.40 refers to Part I and the requirement for a disconnect is in Part I (630.12).

This commentary is from the 2011 NEC Handbook:

  A readily accessible disconnecting means is required to be located within sight of pool, spa, and hot tub equipment in order to provide service personnel with the ability to safely disconnect power while servicing equipment such as motors, heaters, and control panels. Underwater luminaires are not subject to this requirement. The proximity of the disconnecting means to the pool must be not less than 5 ft unless the disconnecting means is separated from the water by a permanent barrier.

Notice here it says unless the disconnect is separated from the water by a "permanent barrier". If you have a permanent barrier such as a partition between the tub and the disconnect it can be closer than 5 feet. Otherwise 5' is your minimum distance.

So, you were reading the code correctly you need a disconnect in-sight of the spa and mounting next to the main panel will work just fine. Or using a breaker in the panel will work as you and Speedy Petey were discussing.


Elegant method of punching a hole through a wall to run cables?

There is a quick and easy way to do this, no special tools, $10 of parts, 20 minutes work if all goes well.

Cut in an old work low voltage mounting bracket on either side of the wall, back to back

and use a "duckbill" cover for a finished appearance, (the one in the photo is an Arlington CE1)

All you need to do this is

a level to make sure you position the bracket straight / square,
a pencil to mark the outline of the bracket,
a drywall saw to cut a hole for the bracket,
a screwdriver to screw the bracket in, and screw the duckbill on,
and optionally a studfinder to make sure you pick a clear hollow spot.

When you pick your spot, try to match the height of any nearby electrical receptacles.  Try to stay well away from studs.  You can use a studfinder, or look for the nails holding the base molding to the wall - those will be nailed into the studs.  You can also turn off the breaker for a receptacle and take the cover plate off, you'll probably see the box is nailed to a stud, and you can go on the other side of that stud.

When you cut the hole for the bracket, make a horizontal cut first so you can adjust if you miscalculate and hit a stud.  Don't plunge the saw in - take your time, use just a couple inches of the blade, just in case there's something behind there you don't want to hit.

edit After you cut in the first bracket, move any insulation and poke the drywall saw through to the other side, just enough to pierce the drywall so you can place the bracket on the other side of the wall.

If you stop using the pass-through some time in the future, you can just remove the duckbills and put blank covers on.


Can I install a (probably ductless) range hood against brick?

There's no reason you can't install a hood on the brick, it will work fine. You need to buy one designed to hang on the wall, not the ceiling, and there's loads of choices either way. You can run a power line up from behind the range and hide it with a splashback. I highly recommend a splashback instead of having bare brick as it will be much easier to clean food off of.

As for ducting it completely depends on the construction of your home how possible it is to do, and how cosmetically pleasing you can make it. It's not possible to say without more detail.

Before making any decisions you should check your local building codes, some areas mandate you have to install a duct, others don't. Some mandate you can't have your range in certain places. It would stink to build your kitchen and then find out it's illegal!


How to change waste pipe fitting with a small amount of male pipe to work with?

The bad news:
As already noted: you don't have enough pipe left inside the house to cut that clean out off and glue a new one one.
The good news:
It looks like they ran the 4" pipe through a 6" pipe sleeve, then packed it with (mortar?) to seal it. This means that instead of breaking up the foundation wall to replace the pipe, you "only" have to dig out the mortar inside the sleeve!
You'll have to:

Excavate on the outside down to the 4" drain
Open up enough of a trench that you can cut it off outside the wall, leaving enough exposed on the downstream side to put a new slip joint connector on
Cut off the clean out and 45° inside.
Remove all that mortar from inside the sleeve
Remove the section of 4" through the wall
Replace the 4" through the wall
Plumb in new waste lines as appropriate inside

Sorry, while it's simple it's not going to be easy...


It looks to me like the nut on the spout would turn independently of the spout itself. Put the faucet back in its original position and turn that nut while holding the spout stationary. See if you can thread that off and pull the spout out, then you'll be able to rotate the faucet body.
If that's not the case, it looks like you'd be able to find a position that would allow you to spin the spout, or a combination of positions as you turn it and the faucet body simultaneously.


Dryer vent: proximity to electrical wires

In my personal opinion, this type of duct is NEVER a good idea for a dryer vent.

Lint sticks to the inside much more than smooth metal.

It's virtually impossible to clean effectively, without damaging the duct.

How long do you think it will last (contain the flames) when the lint inside catches fire?

Solid, smooth metal is the only sensible choice. Making it as short as physically possible is also sensible. Long, complex dryer vents are just an invitation to problems.

Having it touching the wires is likely to overheat that portion of the wires each time the dryer operates, so at minimum providing some insulation between the two would be better.


How can I fasten 6" XPS tight against concrete slab?

In searching for a suitable nylon screw, I came across threaded nylon rods which are readily available in lengths up to at least 6'.  By cutting such rods I was able to obtain a stem of suitable length.  These were inserted into holes drilled in the slab and fastened using epoxy.  Then, a nylon nut (also readily available) was used to tighten a galvanized washer against the foam and pull it closer to the building.

This was moderately messy (drilling holes in the XPS for the rod and to countersink the nut made a billion little pieces of foam to clean up) and still involved the use of a bit of foam to seal over each nut/washer/rod.

Worse, the XPS was not willing to move all the way to the building in some places.  Where there was less than a 2" gap the approach worked.  For the largest gaps, the XPS began crushing beneath the washer before coming flush to the building.

The remaining gaps led me to choose to spray more to fill these gaps and then, rather than flashing it all with aluminum sheet metal, we used an elastomeric paint over a fabric to extend the house's water barrier over the foam and down to the earth and to provide some mild protection for the foam.  The result doesn't currently look very good but with another coat or possibly two it may improve.

Overall it's not a very satisfying solution but we couldn't come up with anything better.


What could cause my Craftsman push mower to die after running for a few minutes?

Check or replace your gas cap.  Looks like it is not venting properly.  Try it with the gas cap loose or adjust it occasionally while mowing.


Why did my installer install 1/4 round corners like this and how can I fix it?

That's the worst job I've ever seen at installing quarter round. As others have said, your installer was incredibly lazy.

There are several different techniques that could be used for terminating the corner rounds in both the corners and at the ends.

A simple 45° miter is the simplest for both inside and outside corners. If you want to get fancy, you can cope one of the pieces. Both of these joints look identical when they're installed.

(Image Source)

For the bare ends that stop at a non-corner location, you can do either a mitered return, or just miter the outside edge at 45° and let it angle up against the wall/cabinets.

(Image Source)

As for your questions about fixing the quarter round without buying new, you can probably get away with doing so for your cabinets, but not on the inside corners. For the cabinets, it will look a lot more natural if you miter the ends so they taper back up against the cabinet.

For the corners, you could buy a short length  (12-24" or so) and splice it by cutting back the existing quarter round a slightly smaller distance. Then miter or cope the new piece appropriately.


Bathroom exhaust fan wiring issue, power to light then switch?

The diagrams below show how to wire the circuit. For simplicity I have not drawn in the electrical grounding conductors (green or bare Cu wires).

Note that the 2011 NEC introduced a requirement to provide a grounded conductor at the switch location (see this answer and this outside link for more details). You can avoid this requirement if you install the circuit before January 1, 2020 but there are good reasons to follow the new code if it's not unduly burdensome. You may upgrade the switches in the future with a smart switch that requires a grounded wire. Or you may need to branch off this box in the future to run additional switched or unswitched circuits.

For a pre-2011 NEC 3-wire install the switch loop can be run using Type NM-B 14/3 with ground. Re-identify the white conductor in the switch loop cable as ungrounded (on both ends) and connect to the ungrounded conductor from the branch circuit. Then connect the black and red wires as indicated in the diagram.

For a 2011 NEC 4-wire install the switch loop could be run using Type NM-B 14/2/2 with ground. Connect the grounded (neutral) wire from the branch circuit to the white wire in the switch loop. Connect the ungrounded wire from the branch circuit to the white wire with red stripes. Connect the black and red wires as indicated in the diagram. As I write this, it is hard to find 14/2/2 cable and often more economical to run a pair of 14/3 cables. In each case we are running an grounded (neutral) wire inside the cable that has the ungrounded wires for each switch loop. This is required by code to avoid inductive heating.

Prior to 2011 NEC

After 2011 NEC


3% and 5% are there in the form of Fine print notes. These are not enforceable. If your max demand (power used at 1 time) is 100 amps 1/0 will be fine. We would really need to do a load calculation to provide a real value but 270’ 1/0 aluminum is only 4.68% since you have gas cooking and water heater I would guess your demand will be below 60 amps and that would even allow for 2awg at 3.96% so there is no need to go larger than 1/0. : added  Aluminum wire is a must for cost here copper would just be nuts for this.


Should I install a grounding rod near my light post to protect against lightning?

You can put a proper ground rod there if you really want to, and tie iti n with the grounding system.  There's no restriction on grounding, what you can't do is tie neutral to ground.

Now... Why are you putting GFCI outlets all over the place, outdoors no less? GFCI devices perform very badly outdoors and it will be a maintenance headache.

You only have one circuit, so you only need one GFCI device.  If this comes as a surprise to you, this is a great time to get educated. Save you a fortune in the long run.

And put it indoors. So it's out of the weather.

If you're simple, fit a GFCI breaker.   Otherwise you can run EMT conduit off the service panel to a nearby location (like right next to the panel) and fit a steel box,  and a cheaper GFCI deadface or liveface receptacle there. That will position it to take the lightning hit instead of your expensive stuff.

The outdoor circuit gets fed off that, and you use plain receptacles throughout.  If the circuit has good grounds, you should be able to confirm the efficacy of the GFCI protection with a pocket tester.


Are outdoor receptacles required to be GFCI receptacles in the US?

Any GFCI protection will do

When the code says something "shall have ground fault circuit interrupter protection for personnel", it does not care where that GFCI protection is provided -- at the outlet via a receptacle-type GFCI, upstream of the outlet using a receptacle or deadfront GFCI device, or via a GFCI branch or feeder breaker.


What causes uneven sheen in semi-gloss or high gloss paint?

Lots of moving pieces here.   I am assuming though that you are using the exact same paint.
First your two coats of primer might not be mine.   Meaning a "coat" is subjectively what you think it is.
My definition of a coat is hitting the entire wall with what I think is enough paint to cover it completely as quickly as possible.   In my head I know that if I go up to the wall with a microscope - or it gets hit with the right angle of morning sun... well there are probably quite a lot specs missing.  So a coat to me is wall looks painted from 30 feet.
That being said.   On fresh drywall...   I do "two" coats the first time through a wall.   Then about 2 hours later I give it a really hefty third coat... Which you may think is a fourth coat.
Now if I am doing a light colored eggshell I can go lighter on the 3rd coat.   With a semi-gloss - it is heavy primer then a good three coats of paint.
The unevenness is either from you having areas not primed enough so that your coats of paints had to initially prime the wall... or you simply did not put enough semi-gloss on the wall.   There really isn't a perfect technique for doing this right.   It is whatever you can do to stay roughly even - but for sure you should be using a good low nap roller, not a brush (unless you want a unique uneven look, or you are a budding artist).
Even after I overprime a wall I am hitting it with 3 coats if it has a lot of sunlight hitting it.    The sheen is duller in areas because like I said before those other areas were not primed as good or you missed it a bit on the first couple coats.    You don't need to dwell on that.   You need to keep adding very light (and even) coats until you are happy - nothing else you can do.
Note:  I do not think this is your issue but worth the mention.  I don't trust the "sheen level" on paint until it cures.   When you add new egg shell to old it for sure looks shinier - like not matching shinier.   3-4 weeks later hard to see the new paint.


Do any ultra quiet ceiling fans that have no motor hum exist?

You might look into ceiling fans with DC motors.  While I have not seen a manufacturer talk about quietness, some reviews I've read talk about quietness.  The biggest attraction to DC motors is the efficiency of the motors, getting more air movement with less power.

My suggestion would be find a local fan / light showroom that has some of these on display that you can try.

Also, fan speed controls have a lot to do with the fan noise.  A fully variable wallbox style speed control can cause motor noise, but the fan speed controls that have preset "clicks" that you feel when adjusting are made for quiet operation.  I don't know if the remote set you got was matched by the manufacturer or just off the shelf, but that could make a difference.

You also have to remember that some people leave their fans on for a "white noise" effect, which helps them (me) sleep.  My wife insists that we keep a floor fan on for the noise.  Because of this, when it comes to trouble shooting a loud motor then you might not get as much help as you think you would get.

Again, try a fan specialty shop.  The salespeople will know which are quieter and should know more about them than a box store.


How many LED lights on this 15 amp breaker?

The breaker only sees the 120V input to the LED power supply, so
at 0.14A each 100 of them would still be less than 15A.

However you're surposed to use less tha 80% of breaker capacity, so 85 is a better limit.


3 wire service to older building doesnt look correct

First part is answered here: sub panel bonding. But in short, sub panels are not allowed to have their neutral bonded to ground. That only happens in the main panel.

Now to answer your grounding question: Yes, your sub panel is not properly grounded. Any fault current would have to travel through the earth back to the main ground rod or whatever grounded metal object is in the path first. The resistance of the earth varies and corrosion can also add resistance. This can create a high resistance enabling a ground fault (short to ground) to energize the garages ground circuit with a potentially fatal current without tripping a circuit breaker. In plain English: a short to ground could make every grounded metal object in that building live with respect to the main ground rod. A separate ground conductor must be ran from the main panel ground bar to the sub panel ground bar. That ground wire must also be in the same conduit as the other three feeder conductors and appropriately sized to the hot conductors.


What is the weight limit of an average shower head pipe?

It is hard to say without opening the wall you may have a metal pipe coming out of the wall and PVC or CPVC, copper or Galvanized pipe. With galvanized pipe it might be strong enough if the pipe is strapped to a stud but you would be taking a chance.


Using the most energy efficient type of window will help.

Double hung and sliding windows are made to fit a little loose so sashes can slide past each other.

Use an awning or casement window that has a latch that pulls the sash in tight AND locks it tight will have less air infiltration, etc.


Why won't my plugs stay put in concrete wall?

If they are coming out when you are tightening them, it might be that your hole was not drilled deep enough.  The hole should be at least 1/4" deeper than the screw.

Those plugs also might not be large enough for the job.  Concrete anchor scews (like Tapcon's) are a good alternative when you need more strength then a plug can offer, but don't need a large metal anchor.  On large jobs (like attaching a deck to the house), you can epoxy a bolt in a hole like you suggsted.


Remodel Condo: Where to start and finish

Check with the Condo Association (if any) for their possible needed approvals & outside requirements...noise levels & when you're even allowed to make noise, windows, doors, shutters, porches, siding, roof, etc. They usually just care about the outside aesthetics. But, they could kill the whole plan with a simple little guideline like, only professional licensed & bonded contractors...so you don't burn everyone down.

But absolutely, consult with a Plumber, Electrician, Carpenter, General Contractor or Design Builder if it's a "Remodel" where you plan on moving or removing walls & their utilities or even just utilities. Opening walls means being required to update the utilities to today's standards.

If it's a "Renovation" where you're not opening any walls floors or ceilings all the way to the structure & just re-painting & replacing tiles, cabinets, appliances & fixtures to not move a single utility, then have at it.

Otherwise, do you just want a dumpster at the start for demolition or removing the old stuff & then another dumpster at the end for all the new stuff's scraps & errors. Or, will you just call 1-800GunkJunk (for example) when the pile fills the room.

Do you have any experience in anything you're doing or do you have any problem with following manufacturer's instructions to the letter. If you're just going to wing-it, then be prepared to rip out what you did wrong & re-buy everything to start over.

This isn't a few weekends here & there situation for either the Remodel or Renovation scenario. You need a lot of tools, strength, stamina, positive attitude & the ability to live in filth for a year.


Should my a/c have some sort of a drip pan (photo)

Yep, you do have a built-in drip pan. However no, you should not install any additional drip pan. That "radiator" (evaporator coil or A-coil, due to shape) is what the air travels directly through in order to remove the heat from the house when cooling is in use and what heated air passes through during heating season...any additional air restriction would be a bad thing.

I'd say be extremely careful in cleaning, as to not bend any of those fins. But, you really should call a Heating and Cooling Company or Guy and have them thoroughly inspect, repair, service and clean the entire system. Yours looks overdue and a pro's couple or few hundred dollars will come right back to you in restored energy efficiency for both heating and cooling.


Hard "no".  The only receptacle you can install on a 30A circuit is a 30A receptacle.  NEC 210.21B3.

You mentioned the EV industry's tendency to put 14-50 on every charger.  That creates a real mess.  You cannot install a 50A receptacle unless you have 50A wire and breaker.  As you note in the above table, there's an exception where it's also allowed on 40A circuits, but the reason for the exception is there's no such thing as a 40A receptacle, and that exception is bullseyed at the special case of range/ovens.  For a new -50 in a garage, where anything could be plugged into it from a better EV supply to a welder, best to use 50A cable so people get exactly what is on the tin.

Contemplating a situation where replacing the 10AWG cable is not practicable... I would get a "generator transfer switch" that takes the form of a small subpanel with an interlock so two specific 240V breakers can't be on at once, and takes readily available breakers (because I'd change them). Normally, those panels backfeed; I'd not.  The 30A supply would go to its buses.  I'd change one breaker to a 30A and feed the 14-30.  The other to 20A and feed the 20A receptacle.

If forced to plug into 30A service, I would use a 30A receptacle and a cheater cable.  This is not quite legal, but since it's not part of the building, it's out-of-scope for the permitting and inspection process. I'd specifically aim to make it as obvious as possible that it is a cheater cable -- to warn "the next guy" that this is not 50A as advertised.  A receptacle installed in a building should always be what it looks like.  I shudder to think of people solving this problem with a neat 14-50 installation onto 10AWG wire; later they sell the house to a guy motivated by that sweet 50A service in the garage.


If the roof is faded this tells it is older and the rubber seals on the fasteners may be failing. This has happened on my barn and I start replacing all the screws with new ones. With a thermal camera you may be able to identify the area that is leaking from inside. I would just replace the screws or find new seals, I tried 1 time to replace the seals getting the old ones off was a total pain on many of the screws so I got new ones, and tossed the seals in a box.


Help: Black and White Wires on Switch but No Neutral?

That's exactly what it means, no neutral at the location. There are smart switches that don't require neutrals so you might want to check them out.


How can I make use of bricks, rock and miscellaneous fill left in my yard?

You could create some really cool mosaics.

Here’s my favorite. It’s of Greek women on the island of Sicily (before it was Italian) doing their athletic competitions in bikinis.

They say the bikini was invented in 1950, but this is proof they were around a long time before that.


Hot water cylinder (direct heating), loosing heat and pressure during the day

Sounds like a leak, near the kitchen sink that allows hot water to drain from the heater towards to sink.

One way to confirm (apart from seeing the leak effect) would be to turn off the isolation valve at the heater for the day, while away, and checking by how much the temperature drops during the day.

If it doesn't drop nearly the same, then you know there's a leak and the cooling was due to cold water replacing hot water in the tank.


Can I put acoustical putty *inside* the electrical box rather than around the outside?

As per the comments, no, it's not a good idea.

The box / soundproofing should have been installed before drywalling.  If you want to do it right, cut a piece of the drywall out to give you room to work and install it properly, then close up the wall again.


Controlling multiple indoor wifi smart switches with a separate outside photocell

As @Tyson mentioned in his comment, you can do this with most smart switches as long as you have a hub to set everything up. Most smart switches nowadays operate on several protocols (Z-wave, Zigbee, etc) and many hubs handle multiple protocols as well, but just make sure your switch and hub both use the same protocol.

In the setup of the switches, just program them to come on at sunset and off at sunrise, which will be calculated based on your location.

Alternatively, if you don't want to use smart switches, you can get semi-smart timer switches that will automatically adjust, based on your latitude, for sunrise and sunset. I've used this one in the past and it's worked great, although there are others on the market as well.


In your other question I commented that due to your peculiar setup and grandfathering, you are forced to tie neutral and ground in your service panel here in the barn. (Normally you wouldn't).

Do not tie it anywhere else!  Neutral is not ground!

Now, the socket in this picture is a NEMA 6-30.  NEMA 6-30 has a ground and does not have or need a neutral.  If that is the socket you want, you are all set.  That would be used for water heaters, A/C units, compressors, machine tools and other equipment that runs on a 240V single-phase motor or resistor heating (such as a drying kiln).

This looks like all new work, and I assume that is MC cable. If that cable has a ground wire, you need to use it and not just depend on the metal sheath for a ground path.

Now, if you are installing a NEMA 10-30 (neutral not ground), stop.  Do not use NEMA 10 for anything, it is obsolete and it is dangerous and illegal to install a new one.  If you have a dryer that has an existing NEMA 10 cord/plug, then install a NEMA 14 receptacle (4-pin) which includes neutral and ground.  Get the installation manual and follow the instructions for replacing the NEMA 10 cord with a NEMA 14 cord.  (you need to remove the bootleg strap from the machine).

If you are installing a NEMA 14 (or 10) here, and you need neutral, look in that MC cable for a white and red wire.  For neutral, you will need a cable that has black, white and red.  If that is not present in the cable, then you need to replace the cable run. There is no way to retrofit neutral.

By the way, in these drawings I show both hots as black.  Because they are interchangeable, it doesn't matter if they're swapped. The wire is red in the cable mainly because that's how cables are made.  In conduit, I would wire it with two blacks.


Can I use a 4x4 concrete post holder to install a gate?

No. Those holders give virtually no torsional support. Your gate will tear it right down. Plan on robust posts in a substantial concrete footing to carry that torque load.

Either that and do what I did and run some snow fence on a pair of 1/4" vinyl-coated cable. The gate won't contain a toddler, and the snow fence wouldn't either, but it gives a visual barrier and slows them down. That's the main goal. The rest is handled by good parental discipline.

You're going to find the toddler years whisking away in no time. Do you really want that big gate there anyway?


"Laminate hardwood" vs. "Engeneered hardwood" flooring

From https://www.woodandbeyond.com/blog/engineered-vs-laminate-flooring-which-is-better/:

Engineered wood flooring

  Engineered wood flooring is a man made product that is made from
  natural materials.  Commonly made up of layers of ply that are bonded
  together, engineered wood flooring is always topped off with a layer
  of solid wood.  This layer of solid wood is called the lamella or top
  layer and it’s thanks to this solid wood finish that engineered wood
  looks so convincingly like solid wood.

  Engineered wood flooring has the advantage over solid wood that its
  stable structure means that it is much more resistant to expansion and
  contraction than solid wood.  What this means is that it can safely be
  fitted in rooms where temperature and moisture fluctuations are
  significant, like bathrooms and kitchens.  Engineered wood flooring
  can also be installed over under floor heating.

Laminate flooring

  Laminate flooring on the other hand is a synthetic, man-made product
  that is made up of various layers that are fused together using a
  lamination process.   Laminate flooring is a relatively recent
  addition to the range of flooring options available on the market and
  made its first appearance in the late 1970s.  It originally launched
  as a competitor to vinyl flooring.  Made up of typically five (or
  fewer layers), laminate flooring can be made to look like any material
  the manufacturer wants, because effectively the layer which makes up
  the image is just that, an image.

Laminate flooring is the cheaper (and generally lower quality) of the two.