How do I identify and repair this drywall damage?

I ran into a very similar scenario, where upon removing the base trim, a portion of the paint began to peel. I think the original paint was applied directly to the drywall with no primer, though I may be mistaken. What resulted was the paper layers that surround the gypsum of the drywall began to peel off with the paint.

A / B) You can see where the layers of paper separated from the gypsum core from removing the nails holding the molding
C) A section of paint that was stuck to the molding took one or more layers of the paper off exposing a brown inner layer of paper.
This actually occurred second to a different wall where I had removed the hanging cabinets (Water leaking from the bathroom above ruined the ceiling, and I removed the cabinets to investigate the extend of the damage through the wall). On removing these, there was a noticeable exposure from where the cabinets had been painted around. Removing the paint took most every layer of paper off, completely exposing the white gypsum core of the drywall. There were also sections that still had some of the brown paper on the outside of the drywall. I attempted to use a primer/sealer on this, but the result was that the paper absorbed the moisture and looked very bad. The final solution was to rip out all of the existing drywall and replace it.
It was a learning experience for me (first time home owner) in having to replace that wall, but the final result was very good.
The base molding removed on a separate wall of the same room (pictured above) appeared to have the same issue, where the paint sealed it to the cabinetry. On removing the cabinets I had to be careful about being delicate to not peel much of the drywall paper off. There were a couple areas that I was not able to avoid, and my solution was to try applying a very very thin coat of joint compound, allowing it to dry, and repeating the process as needed until the wall was evenly coated. From there I painted with a primer/sealer before applying the final coat of paint.
It was certainly not perfect, as indicated in the 2nd picture, but I know this area will be covered by cabinetry so I was willing to let it slide.


I have two switches for one light. One is a dimmer switch and other is single pole switch

You need smart switches. Period.

A smart switch can handle this problem easily. Anything else will require busting up drywall and laying new cable - possibly /4 cable to the switch loop owing to needing to support both a 3-way and provide neutral. Let's sidestep that, eh?

Why would anyone wire it this way? My guess is, the now-dimmer location started out only as a place to tap power for the light, and the switch loop was meant to be the only switch.

Use a smart switch with smart 3-way capability and wireless remote

You put the smart (dimmer) switch at the current dimmer location (with neutral). The line up to the lamp becomes switched-hot and neutral.  That means the switch loop to the other switch is pretty useless.  That is why you need a wireless battery powered remote which matches to the smart switch. Generally these look exactly like wall switches or dimmers, but can be mounted to the wall with sticky tape.

Selecting particular models is off-topic here, so I leave it to you to find an a) smart b) dimmer that c) accepts wireless remote and d) talks to whatever WiFi scheme you are interested in.  Don't buy mail order; make sure the part that touches mains power has a UL listing, CSA, ETL or other NTRL.  CE is not one, and is the mark of cheap Cheese junk that you are not allowed to use in mains wiring.  CCC, FCC and RoHS are also used to fool you.

Or, use a smart module in the lamp box

In this case, you can use the wiring in and out of the lamp as always-hot and neutral.  That can power any wired smart switch of your choice coughInsteoncough, provided the switches can communicate with the module via powerline or wireless signaling,


How to connect a semi rigid aluminum duct to a rigid aluminum duct

A couple of potential problems:

Sooner or later the duct will have to deal with liquid water running down the interior wall. It'll be condensate from the exhaust gases themselves, or condensate from warm moist outdoor air falling onto a cool pipe, or rain water entering in a storm.. Anyway, the water will pool inside that connection.
Liquid water will turn acidic because of other compounds in the exhaust gases. Are the proposed sealants appropriate for the usage?

Perhaps you could make your own adapter. Crimp some pleats or tucks into the end of the 90 mm duct so that its diameter is reduced. Continue until it shrinks enough to fit inside the 80 mm duct. Slide the 80 mm over the crimped 90 mm, secure with sheet metal screws, and then tape over the joint.
The tucks can be made one at a time with long-nose pliers by grabbing the metal and twisting, but there are pliers made for crimping ducts in this way. (Thanks for the photo, Amazon.)


If both switches are powered by the same breaker you can wire both to the same neutral. From the wad of wiring I would expect the hot,neutral and ground to be in the box but it should be verified and that there is only 1 hot going to the box. If there are 2 separate circuits or power from more than 1 breaker the switch needs to be wired to the same neutral that the power comes in on.


I'd insulate the pipes and move on
PPR, like PEX and unlike PVC, is a freeze-tolerant material; however, that doesn't mean that pipes made from it should be allowed to freeze on a routine basis.  I would start by adding pipe insulation (foam pipe insulation is available as prefab, "peel and stick" pieces) provided these are not irrigation pipes, which should be drained/blown out for the winter season anyway.  I am baffled as to how you wound up with plumbing runs on the outside of your house, though...


Picture Source
Indeed a tv mounted over a fireplace is not ideal for viewing comfort.
There are minimum clearances that must be observed for safety reasons.
As you can see the further out a mantel protrudes the higher it has to be.
The question becomes “how far out from the wall will my tv protrude?
That will determine how far a mantel will need to protrude to deflect heat away from tv.
For reference the front of my 2016 era 65” inch Samsung on a full motion bracket sits off the wall about 9” when fully retracted.
If over a fire place I would want at least a 12” mantel to deflect the heat.
If you are determined to have a tv above a fire place you can see that the center of a large screen will be well above  the optimal height of approx 42” from floor.
However many TVs are set higher than optimal and if your room is large enough to allow seating far back from the fireplace the viewing comfort is not as adversely effected as in smaller rooms with high mounted tv.
Edit I just re read your question and see that your  mantel is stone so not a combustible material.
You could probably get away with a smaller clearance from top of fire box to bottom of mantel.


They wouldn't have painted over because of the lead paint.  They would have painted because they didn't like the color, or because the paint had gotten ratty.  Very few people consider lead paint to be an emergency.  It's lead, not plutonium.

The issue with lead paint was found because of a socially motivated race to find causes for several groups doing poorly on intelligence testing.  Turns out children eat paint chips.  Middle-classers live in well-kept, often newer homes which had no peeling paint. But the urban poor live in older, rental (so maintenance is not allowed) slums with peeling paint.  Lead poisoning causes brain damage.  In a house with well-maintained paint, it's not really much of a problem; however, it's politically unpalatable to say why that's so.

So, make sure the paint is stable and not likely to peel.  Then just go ahead and overcoat it.

You can strip it if you want to, but paint old enough to be leaden is also old enough to be alkyd.  This can be a little challenging to strip; the overcoated latex will come right off but the underlying alkyd will fight you. Heat can help, but keep it under 1100F. If you sand, wet-sand, and send the wash and solid chips to wherever your town tells you to.


You can have wires entering from one side or both sides.

If I have 4 wires and I can arrange them neatly to come from both sides then I tend to do 2 and 2...

But if 4 on one side is neatest or convenient...


Raise concrete floor with carpet to same height as adjoining floor

If you choose to use plywood, go with the 3/4" T&G for the layer under the carpet. The trough were the heat pipes used to be can be spanned by the 3/4" plywood too. Also since the carpet compresses under foot, keep the plywood below the hardwood layer about 3/8" or so lower. That way when you step there, the transition will feel level.


Can a water leak cause a fire in a light fixture?

Chances are the ceiling is damp and you'll be fine. However, I have never been a fan of water and electricity at the same time. With the breaker  switched off, take the globe, glass off the fixture. Water probably wouldn't be in the junction box but could have dripped between the box and the ceiling. If there is any dampness, dry everything off. Put the fixture back together and operate the light as usual... the heat will dry out the ceiling.


furnace for central air heating, as what for central air cooling?

The device that cools the air is called an evaporator. It takes liquid freon from the outside compressor unit and turns it into a gas. This process results in a lower temperature and your indoor air is cooled by it.


Here's the relevant bit, which includes some liability tone:

  Your tool was properly lubricated before leaving the factory. In from two to six months, depending
  upon use, take or send your tool to an authorized service center for a complete cleaning, inspection
  and lubrication. Tools used constantly on production jobs will need relubrication more often. Also,
  tools “out of service” for long periods should be relubricated before being put back to work.

The simple fact is that it doesn't need periodic lubrication for the casual user. It would be different if you were a professional drilling dozens of holes every day.

If you like, dab a little common grease in the chuck on occasion. There's a lot of slop (movement) in that type of chuck, and friction can heat things up if it's totally dry.


You describe a mixed collection of tasks, and may do best with multiple contractors.

Someone who advertises as a general contractor probably won't be interested in many of these tasks, and/or would be expensive because they would farm out the small jobs to many subcontractors, adding cost and profit on top of the actual work.
There are some handyman services that could probably handle everything.  They are big organizations with a variety of specialties. They're licensed and experienced in the different trades.  Many are basically general contractors, but they focus on small jobs and use their own crews.

I've also worked with individual handymen who had broad experience in construction, were well-skilled in virtually every trade, and just wanted to be in business for themselves, doing smaller, multi-disciplinary jobs start to end.

Just make sure that whoever you select has experienced people doing each task.  There's a difference between knowing how to do something and doing it day-in and day-out.
Replacing an awning with a retractable shade could be handled by a handyman with some experience in construction.
Adding window trim over stucco is something I would want done by someone with some carpentry and stucco experience.  "Stucco" can be done in a variety of ways, and it serves as a skin.  It's easy to damage, create water leaks, etc., so you want someone with some construction experience who understands stucco.
Replacing a fence gate is a task for a handyman with some carpentry or fencing experience.  This is a relatively small job, so it will be much less expensive to have it handled by someone who is already on-site than to bring in a fencing company just for that.
Exterior painting is a job for professional painters, especially if the house is multi-story, stucco, or has a mix of exterior surfaces and finishes.  A handyman service may have a crew of professional painters.  This is a big enough job to contract separately with painters if you work with a handyman service that doesn't regularly paint entire house exteriors.

That said, if the house is stucco, paint may not be what it needs unless your objective is to change the color, or there is extensive cracking you need to repair.  The color is blended into the stucco mixture, not a surface treatment.  If it just looks "weathered", it may only need a cleaning, which could be handled with low-pressure power washing.
Power washing the brick depends on what you need to accomplish.  If the brick has chemical or oil stains, paint spots, lichen, or other heavy-duty staining, or covers a very large area, it may need the cleaning power of professional equipment.  It it is just normal environmental "dirt" and not a huge area, consumer-grade equipment will be adequate.

If professional grade equipment is needed, a handyman service may have it.  Just make sure they have some experience cleaning brick with it.  Overdoing it can blast away chunks of brick.  There are also lots of power washing services.  They will have professional-grade equipment and some practice, and will be used to doing it efficiently.

If the bricks are just dirty and not a huge area, you might even think about doing this yourself.  Professional grade equipment isn't required for simple cleaning, although it would be faster.  For what you would spend delegating the task to a pro, you could buy a cheap electric pressure washer, do it yourself, and then have a pressure washer for future cleaning needs.

When you talk to contractors, they will all say that they do all of your tasks all the time.  Recognize that there may be some level of BS in their claims.  Push for details, ask to see pictures of similar jobs they've done, and check out references if practical.  Start with recommendations from neighbors and colleagues, and consider using a service that does some level of initial screening like Home Advisor or Angie's List.


Help connecting cat5e cables for home networking

The yellow cables are probably Cat5e, which has 4 pairs of wires. (The beige cables are probably Cat 3, which might only have 2 pairs of wire). A single phone line only requires 1 pair, so as you can see the other pairs are just twisted off.

You definitely can reuse the cable for ethernet access, but you will lose the phone jack obviously.

Here are some things you should know about working with ethernet cabling:

Unlike phones with are relatively low-bandwidth, ethernet cables need to be in good condition with the pairs twisted around each other properly and with properly terminated connections. The mess you show is fine for phones but will cause lots of interference with ethernet data. If you want to reuse the cabling for data you need to cut back the cable all the way to the yellow sheathing and start over with new CAT 5e terminations. The proper way to do it is to terminate all the cables at a patch panel, but you could also just crimp a regular RJ-45 on the end and connect them that way. You cannot just twist the wires together and expect to get a good signal. Also, at the other end of the cable (in the room with the jacks), you will need to do the same thing: cut back the cable to where it's clean, and start over with new RJ-45 jacks.
Also unlike phones (and household electricity), you cannot split a cable into 2 cables just by joining the same color wires. If you have more than two devices you want to connect, you need to use an ethernet switch, which is a small appliance that will properly route the data packets between 2 or more devices.


loosening tan-colored thread-lock compound on black-iron pipe

That's probably old gas/water thread compound, and not a thread locker. It could also be plumber's putty, which does tend to get quite hard.

Solvent probably won't do you any good, and you've presumably had some heat in it already. You could try heating it locally with a torch. What remains after that is ever-larger wrenches.

Good luck.


Should I have thicker areas of foundation under posts?

At a 3000psf bearing capacity of the soil underneath, each 8x8 post without footing can bear a paltry  27 sqft at 50psf live load.
(3000psf x 64 sq-in / 144 / 50psf) = 27 sqft
If this is all you need, you still have to worry about post tilt due to an uneven bearing capacity or hardness gradient under such a small post.
You need a soil analysis and a load calculation by a structural engineer.


How important is soffit ventilation with tiled roofs?

Attic Ventilation shall be “cross ventilation “ and shall be 1/150th the area that is to be vented. (See ICC R806 Vents.)

However, there is one exception: The attic ventilation can be reduced to 1/300th the area to be vented provided one of the following items are met:

1) a Class I or II vapor retarder is installed on the “warm-in-winter” side of the ceiling, or

2) not less than 40% and not more than 50% of the ventilation is located in the upper portion of the attic. The upper portion is defined as: “Upper ventilation shall not be lower than 3’ below the ridge or highest point of the roof. “  (See ICC R806.1.2.)

Also, the Code says you’ll maintain a 1” clearance between attic insulation and framing.

So, you can see there is clearly a benefit to having ridge vents, gable vents, etc. , but in a proportion that allows COMPLETE CROSS-VENTILATION to the attic....and cross ventilation is best with soffit vents.

Remember, you’re venting the attic to remove condensation. Condensation damages wood, not your tile roofing. I’d act quickly.


Smart Thermostat and 24 volt transformer direct to thermostat

The two new 24V transformer wires will be R and C, but wait.  We don't know which one is which.

It's a 50% chance, so guess. Hook up New R Only -- do not hook up New C.   Now, measure voltage from New C (which you haven't hooked up yet) to W, Y and G.  You should see near 0V, or 24V if the system is cycled on.  If you see any voltages over 24V, particularly if you see 48V, then you guessed wrong. Reverse New C and New R.

Once you have them identified, use colored tape to mark R as Red and C as Blue.


Should I choose PVC or aluminium window frames in a hot, humid climate?

Soundproofing as it relates to windows is all about mass -- the denser the materials, the more sound reduction you'll get.  PVC is, indeed, typically more dense than the far more lightweight aluminium and so will will resist noise transfer more.  However, the amount of surface area made up by the frame is absolutely dwarfed by the glass itself.  Any differences in the frame will be massively overshadowed by the properties of the glass, make it a moot point.

PVC/Vinyl windows do a far better job of restricting conductive heat as they are a much better insulator than aluminium.  Aluminium is really one of the worst materials to use from an insulation standpoint.

However, PVC/Vinyl will eventually "melt" in a hot environment.  Recycled PVC will do so far faster than virgin PVC, but even the latter will eventually sag enough that opening and closing the window will be tricky.  Assume maybe 15-20 years.

Aluminium will last indefinitely.  That and the price are typically the two big selling points of that material.

In short, neither has a true advantage from a soundproofing perspective (the glass does quite a bit, though) but PVC is a better choice from an insulation standpoint if you are willing to replace the window every 15 years or so.  If you don't care about the insulation value and don't want to replace the window, then aluminium is the way to go.


What wiring is needed for a propane unit heater in a garage?

Cover your bases. Install a 20A receptacle in a metal box. If the breaker is GFCI then use a standard receptacle. If the breaker is not GFCI then put in a GFCI/receptacle. Since this is a dedicated circuit, ideally you should install a single receptacle rather than the typical duplex.
If the installers want to plug in with a cord, all done. If they want to hardwire, they can do that in the same box. Either way, you've got everything they could need already in place. Worst case, you've spent a few dollars on an extra receptacle that isn't needed, but that's better than the opposite problem of having to pay extra for a second installation trip.


If one does not require the center spiral section, I think you'll find a match with a round washer (truss head) multipurpose torx screw:


A couple possibilities come to mind:

The product was not mixed well
The product has exceeded its viable shelf life
The product is contaminated
The table surface contains contamination
The table is made from a very oily wood that the varnish is not bonding well too
Applying it with the wrong applicator
Other application issues - wrong solvent used to thin it, applied too thick, etc.

I would start by ruling out the varnish as the issue by trying another can, manufacture, etc.

If it turns out the wood is the problem, you might also try applying a thin layer of a dewaxed shellac as a sanding sealer first.  More difficult woods might require something like Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer or a Hardwood Epoxy Glue as a base layer to the varnish.

I have no affiliation with these products and only recommend them based on experience


Refrigerator ice maker not working known/unknowns

I don't think there's anything else it you could check. But, if it's a slide-out unit you can jiggle, push, pull & twist it to see if it just came a little loose & has a bad connection. Ice overflows or overfills can jockey them around to inoperability.

Also, check the manual of course. If you can uninstall & reinstall, you may find unplugging (turning off the circuit breaker, if known) the fridge for this operation & then plugging it back it clears any fault & gets it working again. In that case it may be a temporary fault or a first fault in the motor going bad & drawing too much power or not working at all. If the "reset" works, then you'll have to wait for it to fail again & it may not.


Using mineral spirits on wood and then staining it?

1) As far as Mineral Spirits are concerned, you can apply stain as soon as the wood appears to be "dry" again (it will look "wet" until the mineral spirits have evaporated). However, see #3.

2) Most likely -- stain typically contains a thinner as a carrier, which dries more quickly in warmer temperatures. The age of the stain should not be a factor, unless it has lost the thinning agent due to the container not being sealed well -- this would make the stain appear darker. You can add back thinner to counter-act that. Thinner, in this case, is most likely mineral spirits -- you can use a retarder to slow the drying process if necessary.

3) The pre-stain more than likely has dried, curing the resins. A light sanding and a re-application within 15 minutes or so of staining should give you better results -- trying to re-stain after the drying and without sanding may cause the pre-stain to reject more of the stain than you'd like.


Paver installation - excavation limitation

I have run into this many times usually with light duty drainage pipe for the gutters . I really like a solid base I use more rock and less sand but 6” for a patio is good. I would expose a little of the pipe and stop at 5”.

When packing the gravel work to the pipe from both sides  but don’t pack directly over it until both sides are packed. This reduces breakage of the pipe if it is light duty drainage pipe like I have run into. I also use water while packing this helps to pack the rock into the dirt and work the fines from packing into the cracks.

I use just enough sand to level everything in reality a deep spot might be 1/2” for me with a thin spot being close to 1/4”. I get it flat with a 3’ wide rake that has teeth on 1 side and smooth edge on the other side, by working at 90 degree angles he sand flattens out quickly. By over lapping each pass with 2/2 of the rake then turning and working at 90 doing the same the low spots show up quickly after I get the sand very close I use a mist nozzle to wet it down and a last pass, wet sand is harder to work that’s why I get flat prior to wetting it down, a mist nozzle takes longer but won’t dig ruts in the sand.

A border around the area is best but is really needed if more sand is used when it rains water pulls the sand out at the edges of there is no border. A thin layer of sand won’t have the sand migration as bad even with small pavers. Last make sure to have a slight grade away from the house, yes the rock will help to create a drain field but a well packed base and poly sand will hold water quite well so having a slight grade away from the house is best..
I have put in many patios with pavers if crushed quarry or shale is used the rock locks together and can last decades don’t use crushed river it doesn’t lock together I have learned this the hard way living in Oregon where crushed river is much cheaper , I only use that for French drains where o don’t want it to pack together. Hope this helps , 4” of rock will work 5 is better but 4-1/2 with 1/2 of sand will reduce your chances of breaking the pipe and still provide a good base for your pavers.


As long as the junction box is not over filled (as per code), the connection device (Wire-Nut®) is properly sized for all the wires, and the junction box remains accessible. There's no problem wiring the circuit in such a way.


What is this connector part called and where can I buy one?

As a generic term, those are called "structural pipe fittings" and that is a "Tee". As to the specific brand and type with the internal connections, that's likely something proprietary to that supplier, most likely because it is being used for ballet, so they wouldn't want things protruding that could cause injuries.


Fine tuning the location of an office chair on thick carpets

Go to your local plastics shop and get a quarter-inch polycarbonate plexi. They are usually clear, but you might find smoke or bronze. Bring a drawing of the T-shape that office units have. They will cut it and round the edges.
It is about the same cost as an office supply model, but you can customize it to match your office.
By the way, my home office chair stays in its dimples and I just rotate to get in or out. It took some fine-tuning to get the exact location.


How standard is American Standard Mounting for mortise locks?

Maybe.

American Standard Mortise standardized the size of the opening in the door that the lock body fits into and where the screws are to affix that in place.

However, it seems everything else is subject to variation. The centerline of the knobs or handles may be a bit higher or lower in the new lock than in the old one, requiring additional drilling. The size of the opening for the handles may also need to be different.

The spring latch, deadlatch, and deadbolt may also be higher or lower on thd door edge. In the simple case this is solved by replacing the strike with the one that came with the lock -- again, mounting holes are somewhat standardized -- but this variability means the new lock may not align correctly with an existing electric strike, which you probably weten't planning on replacing. And I've seen the deadlatch located both above and below the spring latch, further complicating this.

Measure everything precisely before shopping, measure again when you get home, do a test mounting of the new lock body so you can actually see how door and frame will align before you begin any other installation steps, and be prepared to either take the new lock back and try again or have the job Take Much Longer and potentially require additional investment to salvage.

(Been There, Done That... Or failed to do that, because my friend said the supply house said it would work and he'd checked it... my own fault for not checking it myself immediately, but I was distracted by the metal door, which is a set of issues I'm less experienced with.)


How can I use an off-peak controller with my 240v air conditioner?

Here's a work-around.

Use the 110v smart switch to turn a normal phone USB charger on/off.
Get a USB heating pad for < $2, or if handy w/ solder, a 500 ohm usb-powered resistor.
now you can make a small space slightly warm (or not warm) via wifi
wrap the heater around the thermostat temp probe behind the air filter on the AC. You might have to remove the plastic faceplate, but you don't have to heavily mod the AC.
Set AC to 90F, or whatever a max temp in the room should be if wifi conks out.
To cool the room, turn on the wifi socket, which turns on the usb, which heats the thermostat.
To stop cooling the room, turn off outlet/usb, which allows the termostat to reach room temp in about 30 seconds, turning off the AC, since it's cooler than 90F.

Advantages: cheap, simple, electrically isolated from mains, no permement AC mod needed
Disadvantages: slightly rube goldberg, small lag on on/off, short manual setup routine

Of course, you also need a way to get the temp to the smarts that turns the wifi switch on and off, but that's a different question. you can use node-red to setup a simple control loop based on temps and/or state over-rides, for when you're home on the weekend or whatever.

EDIT: based on comment
If the AC has no thermostat, and you're used to plugging it and unplugging it to control it, you can adapt the above using a 5v 15A relay module instead of a heater to switch the A.C. to the AC on and off. You would power the relay with the USB charger that's being wifi controlled, and connect the relay switch terminals to a splice in the line. If you don't want to splice your landlord's cord (understandable), but an outlet ($5) and pigtail ($15) that fits the cord and splice that miniature "extension cable".


How to permanently seal a pipe filled with water and under pressure making it equal to the wall?

Now we are getting somewhere. You have a pressure flushing system which is malfunctioning, and I can understand your desire to remedy this.

But your solution is too radical. The first attempt should be to get a better pressure system and not to do radical surgery on your existing piping. Can't you replace the valving with a better quality one? Tank (aka cistern) flushing systems have their own problems.

Is this an emergency? Have you removed the toilet and this is your only one?


Talking Thermostat also saying "two sixty four"

I don't know what that error code means, but you can reset this unit by pressing and holding both the "Reset" button and the "No" button simultaneously for at least ten seconds, then pressing the "Run" button.  You'll have to reprogram the thermostat.

My next step would be to replace this with a standard programmable thermostat, the talking thermostat is mostly a marketing gimmick, it was promoted to HVAC contractors as a device that would generate calls for routine service and maintenance.


Can you replace upper kitchen cabinets without removing tile/glass backsplash?

Yes, it should be possible to remove the cabinets without damaging the tile.  However, the replacement cabinets will have to be the exact same size, or you'll have some tile work to do (adding or removing tile).


Where to put a cable tie on an electrical cord?

How do you unfurl electrical cables?

Unwinding a lot of extension cords; I usually start at the socket, plug in the "plug end" of the cable, and unfurl from there.   Otherwise I have no idea where to start.

Generally unfurling a cable flows best when you do it in reverse: start unfurling from the end you finished furling.   Otherwise it tends to tangle.

So that says start furling at the socket end, and that's where the cable wrap should go.  Also if you don't need the full length, you can use the wrap to re-bind the part of the cable you haven't unfurled.


Cap the neutral off and you’re done.
However, since your breaker is 2-pole with common trip, you’re perfectly allowed to eat your cake and have it too.  You can replace one side’s receptacle with either

a dual NEMA 6-15
a dual or single NEMA 6-20,
or a combo NEMA 5-20 NEMA 6-20, giving one socket of each.  Come off the hot of the other receptacle to the 2nd hot on the NEMA 6-20.

That last option lets you make full use of the MWBC, and then, make full use of the 240V circuit... although, not both at once at max amperage.  So an 8A/240V load will play nice with two 12A/120V loads, etc.


Why are shower drains 2", but tub drains 1.5"?

Tubs are big and intend to hold the water; drainage speed is not really important. Showers on the other hand have a low curb and can’t hold much water, so it is important that there is plenty of drain availability to prevent overfilling and flooding.

Some tubs do have 2” wastes, but I think smaller drains are more common as it reduces the possibility of completely using downstream pipes via multiple upstream fixtures draining simultaneously.


Water Hammer Arrester Shutting off Water

You might have supply hoses that have an internal shutoff valve in one end which closes if the flow rate is too large. These are designed as protection against a ruptured hose. One brand is Watts FloodSafe(tm) supply hoses.

If you have these, one might be malfunctioning or connected backwards. This type is unidirectional; the end with the control valve must be connected to the water supply. Standard hoses will work no matter which end is connected to the water supply.

I have a set of Watts FloodSafe hoses in a cabinet, but I have not tried to install them on our new "smart" top loader. I had installed them on the washer of an elderly neighbor, but he was dissatisfied with them because his washer was taking too long to fill. I removed them and put in the standard hoses. It is possible that some of the new washers have sensors to detect low flow. Your washer might be detecting low flow and is programmed to shut off and report an error.


My dryer quit and I am getting a strange power reading at the outlet

The readings you are getting are entirely correct.  The problem is that you are misinterpreting the results.  When we speak of AC voltages there are several types of measurements that may be taken.  Specifically of interest here are:

1) Peak voltage
2) RMS voltage

If you want to dig into the theory of this please see:

RMS Calculations

But the bottom line is that the relationship for a SINE WAVE is:

Vrms = Vpeak * 0.707

In your case you measured a PEAK value of 320V/160V.  If we convert to RMS we get:

320 * 0.707 = 226V
160 * 0.707 = 113V

These values are slightly low but well within the "normal" range of AC mains voltages.  The specification at the point of usage is 105%-90% of the 240/120 nominal which means that the H-H line should be above 216V and the H-N lines should be above 108V.

More on that here:

Voltage Range


Is it safe to use a flexible duct near the end of an 18ft dryer exhaust run?

The drier installation instructions should typically have venting parameters that should be followed. That being said, rigid duct will always flow more air than corrugated flexible aluminum tubing. 4” aluminum flexible tubing flows approximately the same air as 3” hard pipe. All of the little ridges slow down air flow significantly. While a few feet of flexible tubing will probably not drastically reduce air flow I would always avoid it if at all possible. The less resistance the faster your cloths will dry.


One of three blades on lawn mower very loose and spinning freely

I was eventually able to get the right sized wrench 15/16th, and was able to back off the bold holding on the blade, then cleaned it up, and put it back on.  I had to put a block (2x4 chunk) to keep the other blades from spinning as I tightened it, but eventually got it tight enough that all seems to be back in working condition.

I'm still confused how it could get so loose so fast without hitting something, and also, if it was that loose, why was the bold so darn tight.  But alas, it was just the bolt that needed tightened.  Problem solved.


You can certainly do it with a separate tank toilet and some inventive plumbing, but the flush performance is going to be worse than a close-coupled toilet, especially modern low flush capacity toilets that have a large flush valve that discharges the water very quickly.


Roebic Laboratories, Inc. 32-oz Drain Cleaner Crystals

Read the Safety Data Sheet! You've used a very hazardous chemical, which reacts with water to get very hot. It can easily get hot enough to boil the water in the drain, causing the boiling hot caustic (able to dissolve flesh) solution to spurt out the drain, perhaps onto you! It can also get hot enough to damage pipes, particularly those of plastic, and it could then leak out into a cabinet or onto the floor.

Do NOT touch any spilled crystals or leaked liquid. If you have, wash where it touched with a lot of vinegar.

The crystals have clumped in the drain, and perhaps the best thing to do would be to fill the sink with cold water and let them dissolve, which they will do over time. Do not push anything into the drain to speed this up. If this doesn't help, call a plumber, and warn her or him what you put in the drain.


The first time you turn on the water at the faucet and/or sprayer, you'll likely find that the faucet/sprayer spits and bangs. This is normal, and is simply the air being cleared from the supply lines.

Let the water run for a bit, and you should notice the flow return to normal.

Removing the aerators, and/or other obstructions can help clear the air faster.


Indoor sliding doors getting harder to open/close

I may have led astray with my photo as the upper track was unrelated to the issue.

It turns out that the peg+plastic sheathing was very tight when at one side of the lower track. Why? The only possibility that I can make sense of is that the door/track itself has contracted on that side. Putting a touch of lubricant just here helped an enormous amount.

Thanks all.


How can I connect a CPVC pipe to a chrome fitting for a toilet?

Sharkbite is a brand of product that will do what you ask. Very simple to use, just push it on after you cut the pipe clean and square with no distortion (always follow the instructions with the product)

It will give a tidy look when installed.


Raised exposed work cover, or flush cover?
4 x 4 x 2-1/8 is 30.3 cubic inches. That fits 13 "counts" of 12 Gauge at 2.25 cubic inches per count. If using a raised cover they typically add 6.5 cubic inches or so.
What is a count? A wire terminating in the box, a wire passing though the box, 2 counts per yoke device (ie, a receptacle) 1 count for all grounds (unless using NEC 2020 where additional ground wires [edit: beyond 4] count as 1/4 of a wire...) Edit: right, I don't use NM/B, and if I do I use clamps that are external to the box. If you use clamps internal to the box they add 1 to the count.
If the outlets are on one circuit, you presumably have 3 wires in (hot neutral ground) 2 wires out, and 4 "wires" for the two yoke devices.
9 * 2.25 = 20.25 which is less than 30.3 so you are good. (even with clamps in the box)
If the two receptacles are on different circuits, 5 wires in, 4 wires out, 4 for devices. 29.25 inches which is less than 30.3 so you are good.
Edit: Ah, you said MWBC, so subtract a wire each way (one neutral in and out, not two) still good. And remember to pigtail your neutrals.
Pigtails (wires that do not leave the box) are, incidentally "free" (they don't add to wire count.)
Wires that pass though without connecting to anything in the box count 1 unless they are 12" or longer, in which case they count 2. This effectively differentiates between "just passing through" and "leaving enough to a possible future connection" since you are supposed to have 6" for a connection.
As with conduit fill, not being right up against maximum box fill is more comfortable to work in.


What is the easiest way to run telephone cable between floors without fishing them through the walls?

I'd stay away from tape (it may only stick for a few months) and ceilings as well. Just do what the phone company has always done. Staple or nail the wires down to the baseboard or the underside of the baseboard's cap (if any) or tuck the wire down beside wall-to-wall carpet. You continue this right up the stairs to the other room and its all easy to literally rip out when you no longer need it.


Wiring Transition from Inside of wall to Outside of Wall for hard-wired appliance

It seems like the space under the cabinets is inaccessible and would be treated like the interior of a wall.

In that case, you could merely cut a hole in the wall at the back bottom of the cabinet that will hold the heater and continue your cabling into the opening that will hold the heater.

Once the cable is attached to the heater and the heater is pushed into the opening, the cable is protected.

Access to connections by removing a fixture is generally considered code compliant.


A hand powered drill will be satisfactory for drilling small holes in plastic pipe or even in wood. It will not be so good for drilling holes in concrete, glass bottles or metal items. The problem with the latter is that you will spend so much time drilling the holes that you are likely to get discouraged and never arrive at the point that you can determine if you have a satisfactory ability with DIY type projects. You really should look at some AC powered electric drill models. You can find some entry level models with very reasonable prices.


Ceiling / Wall mounted heaters recomendations?

A quick search shows me most ceiling-mounted shop heaters are probably all 240V, so unless that plug also is, you'll need to run new electrical. I had a heater that looked something like the one below at a place I used to work, and it worked decently well.

Here's a nice heater sizing chart to help decide how powerful a heater you need.


Electrical requirements for 3ph IR lamps

Your controller should have a safety factor of 50%, so 9000 x15 x1.5 = 202,500 watts

This may be a bit high, as 27 x 240 is only 6480 watts (P = IxE)

Medical marijuana? Runway lighting? Rose bowl lighting?

This doesn't seem like a home application...  expect to defend WHY you need this or the question may get put on hold


We noticed a small puddle in the basement due to melting ice but it has not happened since - should I still replace patch on foundation wall?

When a crack appears in the house/basement, it usually is the last place to show that something is wrong on the outside. Your actions were a good step into the right direction. Since the previous owner seemed to have the same problem you should explore the reason.If your house sits on higher ground than the surroundings you should be ok with just the actions that you took and you could just dig that spot up and patch and seal it from the outside. If it is a low spot, you should consider putting  drainage in.General rule...your house should be sitting on ground that is as dry as possible. Moisture goes in cracks, freezes and makes cracks bigger. If not taken care of you could end up with costs to rebuild and not only that wall but more since the next step would be a moving house!!!


How wide can a sliding door be open, before it becomes a security risk?

If its open its going to be easier to break in whether its 1cm or 4inches.

A security gate always did wonders for us in South Africa, pretty sure in many other countries too.

TIP: When you install the security gate, make sure that it cannot be screwed out from its sockets, form the OUTSIDE. Or tampered with in any other way from the outside.


Wiring toggle switch (on/off/on) to PIR motion sensor and led strip

On the PIR, you are shorting V- in and V- out.  Are you positive the documentation says they are bridged together?  If so, you can omit one wire. If not, that's half your problem.

Also you are switching the inlet of the PIR, meaning you are severing power to it.  PIRs often need to "get a sense of the lay of the land" which they then store and use as a reference for "unoccupied".  If they also monitor day/night, it helps them to go through a couple of 24hr cycles to learn what your location's highs and lows are.  These units do not have expensive NVRAM:  If you sever power, it's like a factory reset.

So supply + and - to the PIR inputs at all times.   Put the PIR output on one switch leg, constant power on the other, and to the LED in the middle. Whether you switch + or - should depend on what the PIR switches... check its docs.  If you are not sure, get a DPDT and switch both.

If you can confirm that one of those wires is bridged inside the PIR, you can nut them all together, eliminate one of them to the PIR (redundant) and use a single-pole (SPDT) switch.


I lowered the pressure on my boiler and it flooded

Here is the real answer to your heating system problem. I worked on these for 40 years. 1 pipe steam systems are very critical of any thing you or anyone has changed in that system since the time it was first installed. Now; exactly what valve did you install? Did the valve replace the steam vent in the last section at the end of the radiator? I hope so, since this is the only Danfoss valve that will work on a 1 pipe steam system. You will also have to install the steam vent that came with or was an optional part of that valve. A Hoffman steam vent #43 will work with Danfoss valves. The steam pressure should never exceed 3 psig. All the manual inlet  steam radiator valves must be fully open or fully closed; never close a valve part way to try and control steam flow. After you read this respond with what you have done so far. You may have to add a boiler control system (not just a wall thermostat) since the boiler has to cycle off to get these valves to work properly.


Can I replace a hardwood floor board without replacing the entire floor?

You definitely do not need to replace the entire floor; the board is a different question. Typically repairing a hardwood floor involves splitting and removing one board before you can remove the adjacent ones from the tongue and grooves. Later you can replace the damaged board with the same species, or a leftover piece. (Occasionally you can pilfer one from inside a closet or remodeled space.)

That looks like a floating floor though, so you may be able to carefully prod that piece up and out. Possibly even undercut it a bit with a really fine trim saw or oscilating tool if you can get the entire side up.

Once you do have it out replacement is fairly straightforward. Cut away the bottom side of the groove and run a thin bead of adhesive along the adjacent tongue, then slide the board into place at an angle inserting the tongue into the place then pressing the half-groove down into the glue.


Depending on where you live, you can complain to your town which may have ordinances against this. It could be considered construction debris or a building safety hazard. Your local code enforcement department should be able to point you in the right direction.


Fast set joint compound taking DAYS to dry?

Two possibilities:

There is too much humidity in your building.  This can often be the case with new construction in humid areas.  It can take many days for the HVAC system to remove enough humidity.  In existing construction you still may have excess humidity depending on the location, such as a bathroom.  You might find a dehumidifier helpful.

The compound is old.  In this case it may never dry.  If you don't know its "vintage" scrape it off and get some new compound from a sealed container.


what is the correct procedure to patch up cinder block hole with plumbing?

You need to make sure that you can have access to the space in case you need to address any issues with the plumbing in the future. ( especially since you have a fernco type rubber fitting installed. )

You should install an   outdoor rated access panel  that either has a hinged door or a removable panel. Either option will need to have hole for the clean out plug as it stands proud of the wall.

Depending on the size of your opening you may find a metal/plasic access panel in the size you need and then cut a hole in it or you may have to have one manufactured. It should be installed with an outdoor rated sealant or silicone and then screwed to the wall with concrete screws or concrete anchors  with the appropriate fasteners.

Spray foam may be OK for the adjacent block cavities but i would not surround the plumbing with any material that can not be removed easily, for any future maintenance, stuff fiberglass insulation all around it so you can pull it out if you need to.


How is this junction box intended to be used?

neutral and ground vs three phases.
ground

Note the "N" and ground-symbol moulded on the plastic base.


Well pump circuit keeps tripping the breaker

Was the motor replaced with the same size (horsepower, amperage, voltage) motor? What is the amperage and voltage listed on the motor's data plate? In many cases the motor plate will either list the size of the required breaker, or if not, the manufacturers website will have that information available. If you "had the motor changed" it might be best to call the company that changed it and report that the new motor is tripping the breaker, where the old one did not, and have them check for issues, since they should have verified that the new motor would work the same, or made any changes needed to support any change in the motor. If you changed it yourself, that's on you.

You should not replace the breaker with a larger breaker unless the new motor requires a larger breaker.

You should not replace the breaker with a larger breaker without ALSO replacing the wire with larger wire, suited to the size of the larger breaker, which should be suited to the size of the new motor. 20 amp, 12 gauge copper, minimum - 30 amp, 10 gauge copper, minimum.

Rather than "sanding the wires" you should (with the breaker off, of course) cut off the damaged ends of the wire, pull it a little further in, and strip the ends to get new undamaged wire. If this is not possible, consider replacing the wire, especially if it's  fairly short run.

110V (single-pole breaker?) is rather abnormal for most well pump installations. One potential fix would be to re-wire for 220V operation if possible


Is it a good idea to repair a squeaky floor from above?

I think your contractor is right on the money, it's way easier to approach the problem from above than below, and trying to fix it from below would be very difficult to do properly. Floors generally creak because the floor material isn't strongly connected to the joists, to when you step the joists rub against the subflooring , and the subflooring segments rub against each other. Also, older flooring tends to weaken and bow, adding to the creaking. The right way to attack this is to pull up the old subfloor and put down new subfloor using screws into the joists. This will make a strong floor that is less likely to bow in the future.

If you tried to attack this from below you'd have to pull your perfectly good ceiling down, attempt to fix the creaking (which probably wouldn't work anyway), then put up a new ceiling. You'd have to pull down your light fixtures, repaint the entire room, etc. So you'd spend a lot of money to replace a ceiling that doesn't need fixing, spending more money, and be unlikely to fix the creaking.

Having your floor up gives you an opportunity to do a few things:

Inspect the joists: have them take a good look at the condition and rectify any problems. Don't skimp on this, money spent now prevents a vast amount of money spent later.
Electrical work: While you have your floor up is an ideal time to replace old wiring, add new outlets or switches, and put new lighting in the floor below. Want spotlights in the room below? Do it while the floor is up.

Add insulation and/or soundproofing: It's much easier to lay insulation and soundproofing down into a floor cavity rather than up into a ceiling cavity and you may as well while the space is exposed. Just make sure that whatever materials you have installed have a good fire rating!

I definitely agree with your contractor on this one, don't pull down your ceiling to fix your floor, just fix your floor!


How do I identify which neutral wire to attach to my GFCI breaker?

First and most importantly:
SHUT OFF THE MAIN BREAKER IN THE PANEL BEFORE YOU START POKING AROUND IN IT!
Then you should trace the HOT wire from the breaker back to where it enters the panel.
Once you have found that you should be able to identify its NEUTRAL and GROUND wires.
Trace those back to where they connect to a bus bar.


Yes, if...

The means by which you fasten the ends of the knee braces to your structure is adequate. It must be very rigid so no slipping or flexing can occur. There will be substantial shear and tension forces at play. Your mortises should fit snugly.
The posts in your structure are rigid enough. They'll carry a significant amount of bending force due to the longer torque arm that the shorter braces create. Just how much depends on the ratios of braced to unbraced length you go with. I probably wouldn't do less than 1:3.


Is it possible to convert a single-sided wood-burning fireplace into a two-sided one?

I have been searching far and wide for answers to the same question, with one minor exception. I want to convert an existing single fireplace to a "see-through," or double fireplace, and put a natural gas insert, to be direct-vented through the existing flu.

I have come to my own conclusions which have been reinforced by Jack in his answer above, and many other people's comments I have read.

There are two issues: can you safely open up the back side of an existing fireplace on a considerably older chimney?; and will the fireplace vent properly if you can?

I think I have the answers I need.

Ensure the structural integrity of your chimney down to your fireplace. A certified chimney sweep can do this
Have an experienced mason look at your fireplace to assess the structural ability where such a hole is to be made. There are ways they can do this safely
After that, in my case, I'm fine because I want to direct-vent my gas insert and that simply involves running two separate pipes or hoses up the chimney as intake and exhaust, but, with a wood fire, you have a thermodynamic problem
In your case:

Some basic thermodynamics: Hot air rises and cold air sinks; and fire requires combustion air. Simply put, to work properly, a fireplace needs cooler air entering the firebox to replace the hot air (smoke and gases that leave via the chimney). The proper balance of cold and hot allows the fireplace to draw. Two-sided fireplaces have inherent problems with draw. They're hit with drafts from both sides. With your setup, you may find yourself with a smoke-filled home because of an imbalance of cold and hot air.

Installing glass doors can solve this problem by cutting off air from one side of the fireplace to start and containing the hot air once the fire gets going.

Some other tips might include:

The rack where you place the wood should be placed directly under the damper. Raising the grate on bricks helps create more combustion air under the fire and gets the fire closer to the chimney opening.

Have an experienced mason check the height of the chimney. Extending the height of the chimney should improve the draw.

If it is either cold and/or raining, the air inside the flue will probably be cold and heavy, blocking the smoke from venting. Every time you build a fire, prime the chimney by rolling up a newspaper and lighting it, then holding the lit end close to the open damper inside the firebox to warm up the air in the flue. This has the effect of coaxing the warm air to go in the right direction - outside, not into the house.

Most importantly however, is making sure your chimney doesn't collapse into your home when someone cuts the backside of the fireplace out. The thermodynamic problem can likely be overcome.

Hope that helps. Disclaimer, very little of the above information is original. I have simply gleaned it from many, many other sources.


Is 12-gauge wire adequate to run into between a 7000 watt generator and circuit box?

No, 12 AWG conductors are not large enough for 30 amperes.

Powering a structure is a complex task, which would require more details than can be provided in a short form Q&A site like this.  If you need help with a small portion of this project, you might find help here.  As for planning the entire project, this is not the place for that.

My advice would be to hire a local licensed Electrician, even if only for the planning part of the project.


How to create a hidden plug for PVC pipe

Given all the  ideas, the obvious solution would seem to be don't use sand.

Instead, fill the bottom pipe with cement.  Or fill it mostly with gravel with a few inches of cement or silicone sealant to hold the gravel in place.


When would one use an impact driver versus a regular drill?

Drills and impact drivers are similar in that they're both rotating power tools and they have some overlap in usage, but they work differently and have different strengths.

Drills apply a constant torque and tend to have good control across a range of speeds and clutch settings. They're good for work that requires care or precision, like drilling a hole or driving a a smaller screw.

Impact drivers provide much higher torque but in rapid bursts–very much like a hammer provides bursts of linear force. This makes them good for heavy-duty jobs like driving long lag bolts (you can even take the lug nuts off your car wheels with most impact drivers), but the banging action makes them a little bit difficult to control. They're also not good for driving into something very soft–between the hammer strikes there's no torque applied and the bit can actually rotate backwards. You can see this by holding the chuck with your hands while the driver is on; you'll feel the pulsing of the strikes but chuck won't actually rotate. Finally, some impact drivers don't have a clutch, which means you need to be very careful if you're driving something that could be over-tightened or broken by the high torque.

Besides the higher torque, impact drivers have another huge advantage in that you don't have to hold them tightly to provide the torque. The momentum of the rotating striker inside is what provides the rotation force, so even when you're driving something very tough it's quite easy to hold the tool. Drills on the other hand provide a constant torque and require the user to provide the reaction and prevent the tool from spinning.

If you have to pick a single all-purpose tool for general DIY use, a drill is much easier to control and is useful in a wider range of situations.


Bath and sink connected on same pipe - bath gurgling when sink emptied

1:Can multiple bathroom sinks, baths, showers ect share a common drain pipe ?
Yes they can and do all the time.

If so are there any rules? of course there are the International Plumbers Code being one of them - and depending on what other rules your locality has adopted.

Now on to your issue :

Did this problem just start (on previously working system)?
Is any of it new construction ?

Potential Causes:

Your drain from sink to drainage pipe is partially blocked!
Your vent is is either blocked or partially blocked!

Solutions:

Run a plumbing snake down the pipe towards the sewage drain.


What kind of Shower fitting can I install in a stock tank to tub conversion?

There are certainly bath tub drains that will work on thin metal tubs but often these have a stamped round depression around the drain hole that causes the drain top to be more level with the surrounding tub floor. This picture shows what this looks like from the side.

(Picture Source: https://edmondbathtubrefinishing.com/bathtub-plumbing-installation-drain-diagrams/)

Maybe this particular all metal type drain will be more suitable for your application. The top side flange of a metal drain will be thinner than a plastic one due to metal being stronger.

(Picture Source: https://www.amazon.com/KOHLER-K-9132-CP-Shower-Polished-Chrome/dp/B0014YLQE0)


How can I determine which MERV filters would be best for my air handler?

One website I found is selling filters in the same range as yours for that model.

Outside of checking with Carrier, though, I can't think of an absolute answer.


Flushable kitty litter...should I flush it or is it bad for my plumbing?

Very interesting question and it is all in the wording.  Flushable meaning can it be flushed?  Yes.

Does it break down like human waste?  I doubt it.  So yes you can flush it.  Will it cause plumbing issues?  Maybe.  It really depends on the size of the litter and how long it take for it to break down.

Real-world experience...  My plumbing contractor has had more than a couple jobs because of litter clogging pipes, especially iron pipes.

This question is kind of like asking should you flush kleenex or baby wipes - you can but they can cause issues.  The only thing that should go in your toilet is human waste and toilet paper.  These things break down easily.


How should plywood sheathing be detailed around bolts/bearing plates in seismic retrofit work?

You may be able to replace the regular square bearing plate (which features a hole in the center) with a bearing plate featuring a diagonal slot.  This slot permits the bearing plate to be placed off-center of the bolt, perhaps enough to prevent any interference with the sheathing.  Simpson Strong-Tie makes a couple different slotted bearing plates for this purpose, models BPS and LBPS.

Note that a 'standard cut washer' must be placed between the nut and the bearing plate when using diagonally slotted bearing plates.  The washer will help ensure contact with the bolt.  The idea is that oversized bolt holes (or slots in this case) allow the mudsill to get some momentum during a quake as it moves horizontally.  You want to minimize this slop, which can help prevent the mudsill from splitting under seismic forces.  That is why Plan Set A and similar plans call for a maximum of 1/16" oversize for bolt holes (though certain Simpson Strong Tie adhesives call for larger holes, which is OK).  Anyway, pick a large round galvanized standard washer where the hole is just big enough for the bolt to pass through.  You still need the bearing plate as well.

Also, you want one edge of the bearing plate to be within 0.5" of where the sheeting will be installed (closer is OK).  Keeping the bearing plate near the sheathing helps transfer dynamic loads between the sheathing and the mudsill, while minimizing 'cross-grain bending' forces which can split a mudsill.

If that won't do, another option is adding a horizontal 2x4 across the stud bay just above the bolt and nailing to that (cutting away sheathing below this horizontal, using radius cuts in the two upper corners, similar to a cut-out for a crawl space vent).  Cutouts like this diminish the shear capacity, requiring an adjoining stud bay to be sheathed as well.

You could also take the drastic step of sawing off the bolts and replacing them with Simpson URFP foundation plates.  But that is costly and time consuming.

A slight shallow radius cut could be made in the bottom edge of the sheathing to clear the square bearing plate.  Such cuts should be slight so they do not interfere with the nailing pattern where the sheathing meets the mud sill.  This is not an ideal solution, but may be your best bet if slotted bearing plates or replacing the bolt are not options.

Whatever you do, confirm with local code authorities.  The FEMA Plan Set is another good reference, as are the shear wall and earthquake retrofit books by Thor Matteson, which mention this situation.


Depending on the condition of your concrete patio, I would use something like LevelQuik to make sure the concrete surface is nice and level before putting those tiles down. Concrete patios often have slight dips/rises that are hard to see, but most hard tiles are very unforgiving with variances like that.

After leveling you want to put an isolation barrier on top of that. If your concrete expands over time, your floor will "float" on top instead of splitting apart.

If you have a smooth patio (not broomed or roughed up), you might have a hard time getting anything to stick.

You need to make sure you have non-porous tiles, they may be called “frost-free,” “vitreous,” “impervious” or “freeze-thaw stable,” but whatever the label, make sure it’s warranted by the manufacturer to withstand freezing. Again, water is your enemy.

You do need to make sure you get outdoor quality mortar and grouts, and make sure all seals and grout lines are densely packed/caulked. You want that whole floor as water tight as possible.

If you live in a rather cold (freezing) climate, its not recommended to do any kind of ceramic tile, any water that gets under there will just tear it up with ice expansion over the years.


does it make sense to replace plastic flex ducts with metal ducts?

Metal will require insulation on the outside if it's in unconditioned space; not hard to do. A plus would be metal ducts have less air resistance because of the smooth sides. I am not aware of a need for a permit for duct work.


You will have to store your vacuum, etc. elsewhere if following the letter of code.
Working space for a panel: not to be used for storage, can be used for passage (ie hallway is good, closet/clutter is not) Clear space, 30 inches wide (with the panel in it, but need not be centered in it), 36 inches out, 78 inches high.


New bathroom fan has a 2 prong plug. Old fan was straight wired. How do I convert?

I looked up your fan and this is a picture of it...

It sounds like you just have some romex wire hanging from the ceiling and no outlet to plug the fan into. The wire you see is called romex. This is a large white cable with three wires inside it, Black, white and a naked copper ground wire. These wires should already be stripped but you might want to cut off about 6 more inches of the romex casing to give you some extra room for the ground wire. You can clip off and re-strip the black and white wires, as they will be too long. Cut off the existing plug on the new fan. You will need to strip the wires back. Attach the two wires from the fan to the black and the neutral wires of the romex using wire nuts. That is an Supco SM55OP2 motor equivalent, so both blades on the plug will be the same size. Polarity doesn't matter on these. Finally, attach the ground wire to the frame of the fan with a screw in the provided screw hole. You can also use a self-tapping screw if you have one. Here is a diagram to help you...


DIY trenchless technology -- what options would be suitable?

Thought about making your own? PVC conduit run from an excavation deep enough to go under to another hole deep enough to retrieve. Attach fittings to allow you to use water pressure through the conduit itself to hydraulically bore the hole? Then blow the water out with air, attach fittings, and fish your wire. I have done this for both conduit and water pipes (albeit never 30' across).

You could glue pipe pieces as you go to facilitate ease of insertion and operation. Think male threaded adapter with adapter to water hose thread (or fire hose thread, on a grand scale), as pipe proceeds you cut off and glue the next section, reusing your fittings each time.


Installing American countertop oven in Europe - Converter Trouble

Yes.  First, that was a very foolish thing to do... though I'd make an exception for certain built-in ovens whose guts are mainly 240V but have a small amount of 120V conntrols.

The simple fact is: The machinery which turns electricity into heat is very simple, which means heaters are inexpensive.

And one more thing: American heaters are crippled. You may notice it is 1500 watts, not a surprise. Every US heating appliance is 1500W - toaster ovens, hair dryers, curlers, heater-fans, kettles, microwaves, plug-in wall heaters, you name it. If it has a NEMA 5-15 plug, it's 1500W because that is the practical capacity of a 15A 120V circuit.

In Europe they don't have that problem.  Their sockets support up to 2x what ours do, and so their heat-based appliances are bigger when that would make a better appliance.  If you really wanted to ship appliances across oceans, you'd be fitting Europlugs or BS 1363's in your US kitchen.  (which is possible, by the way).

So.  Simply buy a European version of what you want. Done.  As for the 120V unit, stick it on Euro Craigslist.  Some expat may be permanently returning to the US and be willing to throw it in their container.  Given how inherently inexpensive heating appliances are, I wouldn't ship it in a box.

OK, so you Really, Really Want that 120V appliance

On UK construction sites, they use 110V for big contractor-grade power tools.  They use a special transformer which gives them 110v "center grounded" so each hot is only 55 volts from earth.  That makes the tools much safer than 240V tools.  US heat-based appliances will cheerfully run on that, as the transformers are plenty big.  So get one of those transformers and you're all set. And it has resale value.

One last thing to try

If the heater is very bespoke specialty, i.e. actually built by hand in a western country, then the manufacturer may have a phone number they answer.  Ask them if they market this unit internationally.  Ask them if there's a procedure to convert it from 120V to 240V.  Worst thing they'll say is "no", best thing they can say is "Rearrange some jumpers".


Is this horizontal drain pipe under kitchen sink a problem?

A drain pipe should have a 2% slope. This prevents water from standing in the pipes. If there is not enough flow through the pipe, you also have the risk of sediments building up in the tube and clogging it. I would guess that having no slope in the pipe can cause a problem with the dishwasher. I would recommend changing the slope of the tube.


How to properly use a transformer which bundles its high & low voltage wires together?

I'd simply take this transformer back and get a different one
The transformer you have was designed for use as a replacement transformer inside HVAC equipment, hence the design with primary and secondary wires in the same nipple.  However, this also means it's RU (UL Component Recognized, or Rather Useless to us) instead of being UL listed, which isn't helpful in our situation.  I'd take this back and get a different transformer with a full UL listing and a different wiring arrangement; in the Johnson Controls lineup, the Y65T21-0 or Y65T31-0 would be suitable substitutes, depending on the mounting arrangement you're working with.  (They also provide an extra "blind" terminal on their secondary side that can be used as a general wire-connection point.)


Are there durable peel and stick tile options that can installed on the drywall above a vinyl shower/tub?

A 6" peel and stick stone look would be nice. Make sure everything is dry, scrape any loose paint off and clean the surface with some Tri-Sodium Phosphate to remove soap scum before applying the tiles. The tiles are easy to apply and easy to cut with common household tools. When you have all of the tiles installed, make sure to apply a bead of silicone caulking where the tile meets the tub and in the corners. You could use a color close to the tile color you choose in the corners first. Let that dry and then caulk the base with a white caulk for a clean uniform look. You might consider caulking across the top with the colored caulk if you are skilled at caulking. However, keep in mind that you can't touch up with paint as silicone caulk isn't paintable.


What lumber should be used for indoor stair stringers?

In my area, they use 20' long 1-1/4" x 11-7/8" LSL for stair stringers. Creating your own stringers with plywood aren't a great idea, half of the plywood plies aren't doing anything when you use them as a beam since every other ply is turned 90 degree when stacking. If you can't find those in your area, then buy 1-3/4" x 11-7/8" LSL. If you can't find that, then buy 1-3/4" x 11-7/8" LVL.

The only other normal option is using 2x12 stringers. They only use that for deck stairs because we can get treated southern pine 2x12s. You can't get treated LSL or LVL, so it's not an option for decks. If you're worried about warping just double up and nail and glue 2x12 stringers together.

If you really want to build your own stair stringers, use OSB instead of plywood. The plywood will have a tendency to split at every riser, but the randomness of the strands in OSB help prevent that splitting while the stairs are deflecting under the live load. I'd say subfloor adhesive on all contact surfaces and clinched 8d or 10d nails every 6-12", but that's just a guess in the dark.


You could attach 2x material between the cords of the I-joist that the stairs will attach to.

Attach a piece on both sides and bolt them together through the web of the I-joist.

Then attach your joist hangers for the stairs to the 2x material in the middle of the joist.

The other option is to add an LVL sistered to the I-joist on the stairway side. Giving you plenty of material to attach to.

Good luck!


Electrician need to replace/inspect weather head and conduit?

That line from the power company pole to your weatherhead is called the service drop.
The service drop is always energized.  There's no breaker or switch up on the pole. To de-energize a service drop, they have to come with a boom truck and go up there and detach each hot from the poletop splice.
So yes, the power company must be involved - that can't be avoided.
If you're saying all 3 wires have broken completely off your weatherhead and are laying in your lawn, then call the power company IMMEDIATELY since this is a downed power line that is energized, and can kill a kid.  They'll be out fast for that!
You have to check with your power company but usually they want to see proof of a city inspection/approval before energizing equipment.
So your project scope should be to replace the weatherhead.  Generally the city inspector won't make you replace a bunch of other stuff too.
If your circuit breaker panel is also as roached and old as that weatherhead, then I very strongly suggest you also replace the electric meter with a "Meter-Main".  Why?  Because this will let you fully de-energize the tired old main panel, which will open up a whole bunch of options... Some of those options enable DIY work, and other options enable doing the work in "small steps", which simplifies permitting requirements and doesn't require your house to lose power for more than an hour at a time.


How do I replace this switch with a timer?

I've annotated your image...

It's not possible from the image to tell which of the wires marked with red is the feeder from the breaker, and which is the feeder to other devices on the circuit. However, since you're simply replacing a switch with a timer, you'll not have to touch these wires anyway. The neutrals can also be ignored, unless you're installing a "smart" switch that requires a neutral wire.

Without knowing the exact make and model of the timer being installed, it's not possible to provide exact installation instructions. Instead I'll provide basic "typical" installation steps.

Start by turning off the power to this circuit at the breaker/fuse box, and verifying the power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Remove the two black wires from the switch you'll be replacing (One marked orange, and one marked blue in the image above).
Throw the now disconnected switch haphazardly over your left shoulder.
Connect a bare or green wire from the grounding screw in the box to the green screw or wire labeled Ground on the device.
Connect the black wire coming from the twist-on wire connector (labeled orange in the image above) to the black screw or wire labeled Common on the device.
Connect the other black wire to the brass screw or wire labeled Load on the device.
(Optionally) If a neutral is required, follow steps 7a - 7c
a. Remove the twist-on wire connectors connecting the neutral wires.
b. Include a short bit of white wire in the bundle, and reinstall the twist-on wire connector (make sure the connector is rated for the proper number of conductors, a new twist-on wire connector may be required).
c. Connect the other end of the short bit of white wire to the silver screw or wire labeled Neutral on the device.
Restore power at the breaker/fuse box.
Turn the fan on/off a few times and marvel at how awesome you are. YOU have harnessed ELECTRICITY!!!

Here's some wiring diagrams from various timers on the market...


How will a hybrid water heater perform in less than optimal conditions?

For your “with ducting”, it should not be an issue at all, since you have met the full requirements with ducting.
For your “Without ducting”, in general you have met the condition, as the 300 cf room has an opening to a larger space, which meets the requirement.
In your “worst-case” scenario, it would perform just like a normal electric hot water heater with the same performance characteristics.
I have a hybrid which I installed several months ago in a true “worst-case” scenario.  It is installed in a small utility closet, 4x3, which is in the laundry room, 8x10.  I just leave the door open.  I leave the WH locked in the heat pump mode, as I see no reason to rush to heat the water in the tank back to full capacity.   If I have guests or for some other high demand days, I could manually switch it to hybrid or high demand for those occasions.


All white wires are twist cap together as well as all the grounds.
This is normal.

The black wires are easy the first is the main feed - you will need to feed a black wire from each Switch Line In to the next Switch Line In [Also referred to as Daisy Chaining].

The below is an example - the order of what is a light and what is a fan does not matter.


Can an outlet on a three-way circuit be made live full-time?

Relays to the rescue!
While it may seem that you do not have enough wires in the ground for two travelers (or a traveler and a switched-hot), an always-hot, a neutral, and a ground, there is a way we can get always-hot power to the garage without sacrificing three-way control of the light.  How is this possible, you may ask? Well, it turns out we can use a device called a relay to implement a remote-controlled switch using a single control wire alongside always-hot, neutral, and ground.  This way, we can have the switch in the house turn that wire on and off, which controls a relay in the garage that works in a three-way fashion with the garage light switch.
For this, you'll need:

A fairly deep 2 gang box (your choice as to whether it's plastic or metal) with a decorator/toggle two-gang cover
An Air Products & Controls PAM-1 relay (SPDT, 10A@120VAC contacts, 120VAC/24V multivoltage coil)
Some 12/2 NM (you'll be shucking a short length of this for pigtails, as well as replacing the run out to the existing receptacle with it)
A few wirenuts suitable for 3-4 12AWG wires, as well as one suitable for 5-6 12AWG wires
And a deadfront (blank face) GFCI to provide GFCI protection to the garage

First off, the garage circuit is verified to be off at the breaker, then the old box and switch are removed; the box isn't needed, but the existing 3-way switch there can be reused if it's in good shape.  Once that box is gone, you can install the two-gang box to replace it; if you're using a metal box, you'll need to supply/fit NM clamps and a box grounding pigtail as well.  With that out of the way, we can then remove the existing wiring run from the light fixture to the receptacle box and replace it with a new run of 12/2 NM from the receptacle box (black to brass, white to silver, bare to green + a grounding pigtail if the box is metal) to the new switch box, reusing the clamping means in the existing receptacle's box.  Once that's in place, and the incoming 12/3 as well as the cable to the existing light and the new run to the receptacle are run/clamped in there, we can install the relay using the supplied double-stick tape.
From there, we can adjust the wiring at the house three-way switch.  The black wire in the outgoing 12/3 to the garage and the wire landing on the common terminal (identified by a differently colored, non-green, screw) on the house-side switch get removed and wirenutted together along with a black pigtail that is run to the switch's common terminal using one of the smaller wirenuts (the one suitable for 3-4 12AWG wires).  Once this is done, the house-side box can be buttoned back up, as that's all that's necessary there.
Moving back to the garage, the GFCI gets white and black pigtails attached to its LINE screws and a bare or green pigtail attached to its grounding screw, and the garage-side 3-way switch gets a bare or green pigtail attached to its grounding screw as well.  From there, the hot and neutral going out to the receptacle get attached to the corresponding LOAD screws on the GFCI, and all the grounding wires (bare or green) in the box get nutted together using the big wirenut (the one suitable for 5-6 12AWG wires).  We can then use another smaller wirenut (3-4 12AWG) to nut all the remaining white neutral wires together in the box, including the white neutral wire from the PAM-1's coil and the white neutral pigtail from the LINE side of the GFCI, before moving on to the remaining hot and switched wires.
The red wire from the incoming 12/3 cable gets nutted to the black wire on the PAM-1 with one of the wirenuts supplied with the PAM-1, and the PAM-1's red wire gets capped off with another of the supplied wirenuts.  The blue wire on the PAM-1 (its common terminal) then gets nutted in with the black wire from the incoming 12/3 cable and the black pigtail from the LINE side of the GFCI using one of the smaller (3-4 12AWG) wirenuts.  Finally, the black switched-hot going out to the garage lights gets connected to the common terminal (differently colored, non-green screw) on the garage 3-way switch, and the yellow and orange wires from the PAM-1 get landed on the traveller terminals (same colored screws) on the garage 3-way switch.
Once this is done, you can button everything back up, turn the breaker for the garage back on, reset the new garage GFCI, and make sure it all works.  Enjoy your upgraded garage!


Is it a problem if the framing is 4" short of the edge of slab foundation?

If when everything is done, the slab will have an exposed horizontal surface, then yes, that is incorrect. Either the plans were drawn incorrectly, or someone didn't follow them. Whoever made the mistake should be responsible to fix it.

At this point, your options are to rip down the wall and fix it, double the thickness of the wall (weird) or remove the bottom row of siding and install flashing.


There are many PVC trim and moulding options out there that would be perfect for this. PVC is now engineered to look like wood or stone, but it is non-porous so it will never warp due to moisture. Google "PVC trim" or "PVC moulding" to shop for some near you.


Ceiling Hole in Closet, Sprinkler? Light? What is it?

This looks like a concealed fire sprinkler head that doesn't have the finish trim installed on it.  The sprinkler on the left of the image is complete with the flat trim.

In this type of device, the exposed metal plate is made of a metal that melts at very low temperatures.  The fire melts the metal, and the sprinkler activates.

Similar: http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=7441

You should be very careful with the device.  Do not touch it or poke it.  Since it is in a closet, the installers probably just didn't bother installing the trim, or saved the trim to use later if another more visible unit was damaged.


How can I cut/route a small, straight slot through a piece of wood?

Use a router with a plunge base and either an edge guide or straight edge, depending on the size of your work piece.  Attach stop blocks to the workpiece and/or straight edge (clamps would be one easy way to hold the stop blocks in place).  The stop blocks will prevent you from cutting your slot too long.  First set up the edge guide or straight edge with the appropriate offset for your router base, parallel to where you want the slot.  With the router unplugged and the bit almost touching the wood, position the router bit where you want the slot to start.  Then use the router base to gauge exactly where to position the stop and clamp it in place.  Do the same for the other end of the slot, then proceed with plugging in the router and cutting the slot in several passes, going slightly deeper each time.

You can also use a router table to do something similar, but the steps for setup will be different since you won't be able to see the cut as you're making it.  However, you will be able to use your router table's fence and possibly other T-track or miter track accessories.

Although your material isn't very thick, it's still not a bad idea to cut the groove in multiple passes.

In a pinch, you can also use a Dremel/rotary tool (which is essentially just a tiny, low-torque router) along with a router attachment and multipurpose spiral bit, but a router will give you slightly better results.

If you don't have a router, it's relatively easy to cut this slot by drilling a series of overlapping holes with a drill press and Forstner or brad-point bits, then clean it up with chisels.

No matter what solution you use, be sure to put a sacrificial piece of scrap wood on the back side of the workpiece to help prevent blowout when you cut all the way through to the other side.


What wall anchors should I use to hang a frame on plastered breeze block?

That's a light enough object that standard hollow-wall anchors (plastic plugs) should work fine. They'll do the job whether or not you hit a portion of the breeze block behind the wallboard.

Carefully locate the mounting points on the wall.
Drill for your plugs--usually 1/4" or 5/16". Note that hitting the block will severely dull your bit. You may want to use masonry bits for that part.
Insert the plugs and then insert appropriately sized screws.


gravel under concrete slab? is it absolutely required?

Is gravel absolutely required NO but it is a good idea. Most the time i see slabs poured directly on earth the owners are doing it themselves and the base is not level or has holes. If a slab is not a uniform thickness this can cause cracks even with reinforcement of fiberglass, mesh or rebar.


Is it safe to clamp an angle grinder and bring the work to the tool?

I do not think anyone should recommend that someone try clamping an angle grinder to a table rather than buying the correct entry-level tool (a bench grinder).

While clamping an angle grinder to a table could probably be done, the effort and skill required to make a clamping jig that reliably holds an angle grinder in place is high and the risks of doing it wrong are even higher. The jig likely requires wood or steel working tools where you would have already had a bench grinder in your shop for years before buying the tools required to make a jig to clamp an angle grinder.

To outline the risks: Basically, if the grinder comes loose while you are working with your fingers next to it, then your fingers are instantly a mangled mess either by the blade or by getting them crushed in the spindle.


How to remove wood filler to get to the screws

First off, make sure there aren't nuts and washers on the other side of that wobbly leg that you could just tighten up.
Drill a small hole in the filler/glue down to the screw and then cut away the rest with a utility knife. If you have a Dremel or other spin tool, use a bottoming bit and clean out the area.
You might find that the screw holes were just worn bigger. In that case, you might want to drill right through the leg and get some longer bolts, washers and nuts and re assemble rather than just tightening them up or getting larger screws. That way you won't run into the wobbly leg again.


Should I bond neutral to ground in a three-wire service when adding new branch circuits?

When adding a branch circuit, you would never, ever have cause to add any neutral-ground bond anywhere.

That should only be done as part of a total review and reassessment of your Grounding Electrode System (the network of bare/green wires from your ground bar out to your branches and appliances) and your Equipment Grounding Conductor system (the hefty copper wire heading out of your panel to a water pipe and/or driven-into-earth grounding rod or Ufer).

That's a pretty important set of systems for life safety, so if it looks like those systems are borked up in any way, seriously consider that review.

And then when it's done, land your branch circuit neutral wires on the neutral bar, and your ground wires on the ground bar.  If this is definitely the main service panel, they might be the same bar.


Install ceiling light with wireless switch

The way house wiring is done in practice one cannot simply wrap an insulation piercing tap around a wire and get power. This is done all the time in cars, but not in houses. If a wire in the attic happened to be passing over the center of a room where you wanted a ceiling fixture, code and practice do not allow a simple tap.

Nevertheless, it is easy to get power to a ceiling fixture by cutting a wire and making proper connections. To tap into a circuit this way one usually is required to make two cuts and add some cable in between in order to get enough slack to make all the proper connections.

Hard wired wall switches are still the standard for controlling ceiling fixtures, but no doubt remote switching is possible. Check the electrical inspection where you are to see if what you are contemplating is allowed by the local code.

EDIT

If there is a switched receptacle in the room, then the standard thing to do would be to add a cable from the switched receptacle to a new ceiling box. The cable can always go from the switched receptacle or may from the switch box IF there is a neutral there.

Sometimes the switched receptacle is one of a duplex receptacle and the other receptacle is always powered. If so, then both receptacles can be made always powered. You might not need a switched receptacle, if there is an overhead light which is switched


Could a loose connection be causing my ceiling fan to work intermittently?

Likely so, yes. A loose connection is quite dangerous- you could be getting arcs, which can start fires. I would recommend against using the fan until you can check the connections.

More and more state and local electrical codes are requiring arc fault circuit interrupt breakers. While they're more expensive, they really do work to prevent fires.


How to automatically turn something off at 11pm and on at 6am?

It is likely that your router can be plugged into an ordinary power strip. There are commonly available power strips with seven day digital timers built-in. The SE is not a product recommendation forum, which means it's not proper for me to provide specific product identifiers, but you can use your preferred search engine using the terms "digital timer power strip" and select the item which best meets your needs.

I have a pair of these devices in use, as the day of timed operation varies from week to week in my application. For your daily use, you may be able to locate a 24 hour version rather than a full-week version, making the programming slightly easier.


How can I repair the structure of this floor?

You need an engineer and an inspector to tell you what to do in this situation.


How to verify water-feed entry-point into 2nd floor?

with all the water off heat the pipe at one location then turn the water on and see if the heat moves in response to this.
the heat is going to move slowly by conduction with the water off, so it may take a few tries to get a definate answer.  you could perhaps measure how fast the hot spot cools, with and without water flow.


Can I connect an additional wire to HVAC system where all the terminals are full?

Yes, tapping along with the red wire under the (C)OM is where it goes. If you'll notice, your (Y) is already double taped.


Can one use large-diameter rigid plastic pipe for HVAC ducting slash why is this never done?

1)  cost.  plastic is way more than steel

2)  weight.  so much heavier per unit volume

3)  thermal expansion and contraction, deformation, etc.

4)  it is used in lab environments for fume extraction, and in exhaust for high efficiency gas appliance exhaust (for its resistance to corrosion from the combustion gases)

5)  you also cannot use rigid plastic ducting for interior air distribution for fire spread reasons. the fire code forbids it.  imagine a flamethrower coming out of your vents as a small spark is fanned to superheated air as the forced air fans the flames from the burning plastic.


Breakers for living room was working, but has stopped after I turned breaker on/off

I blame aliens!

No, there are no Little Green Men messing with the wires in your house.  However, your circuit breaker panel has been invaded by circuit breakers that do not belong there, and one of them appears to be involved with your problem child circuit.

In particular, your electrical panel is an older Murray model, listed and labeled to accept Murray breakers (which are really Siemens breakers now), as well as the old ITE EQ-P series, which apparently has been succeeded by the Siemens QP line, and the Westinghouse QUICKLAG P breakers, which are now made by Eaton as their HQP line.  However, some Bryant/Eaton type BR breakers were installed into the panel, which is incorrect; furthermore, there are a couple breakers in there that I cannot ID.  (The Eaton BR look-alike in the top center left, though, is OK -- it's an Eaton CL, which is UL classified for use in Murray panels, among others.)

Finally, your last photo shows another Code violation -- your panel is a rule of six setup, but has 7 breaker handle throws in the top section, violating the rule of six.  We'll need to rectify that as well while we are in here, and only then we can move onto further troubleshooting your issue.  Fortunately, getting this panel to a state of good repair should not be expensive.

Getting this panel whipped into shape

We start with the top section of the panel -- the BR230 in the top left position needs to be replaced with a Siemens Q230/MP230, while the two 30A breakers in the middle right of the top section get replaced with another Q230/MP230.  Finishing up the top section, we replace the BR220 in the bottom right of the top section with a Siemens Q220/MP220.

Moving down to the bottom section of the panel, we have two further defects to address.  First off, it appears that the breaker for the problem circuit is an older Bryant breaker, so I would replace that with a Siemens Q115/MP115 -- it could very well be the case that the breaker's line-side jaw is not fitting correctly onto the busbar "stab" in the panel, leading to the intermittent fault you describe.  As to the far bottom right breaker? While there are no labels visible on it, it does appear to be a Murray type MM "double-stuff" breaker, which is correct for this panel.

If this doesn't solve the problem...

If getting the panel into a serviceable condition does not solve the problem, then further troubleshooting will be required.  I would start by eradicating any backstab wiring connections from the circuit in question and replacing them with side-screw hookups, as push-in backstabs have this annoying habit of stabbing people in the back.

There is also the chance that the tab on the busbar was damaged by the use of the incorrect breaker to the point where no breaker will function properly when installed in that slot.  In that case, you will need to remove the dodgy breaker, put a Siemens ECQF3 filler in its place, and then replace the breaker below it with a Siemens Q1515/MP1515, using one half for the existing circuit in that slot and the other half for the moved circuit.  You'll also want to label the filler plate to indicate that the breaker space it covers is unusable if you do this.


How to determine if drill is suitable for concrete?

More important than the power rating is the type of hammer drill.
This is a very useful link which explains the full difference between a 'Hammer Drill' and a 'Rotary Hammer'.

The former achieves the hammer action by spinning a bumpy disk against the end of the driveshaft of the chuck, which makes is vibrate a bit. These are OK for soft brick, but not much else. If you hit a piece of flint in some concrete, it will just stop, or cause the drill to wander into a softer area.

If you're going to be drilling concrete, you'd be much better off with the latter type. This uses a piston which hammers directly onto the rear of the drill bit, which slides in the chuck (this is also commonly referred to as 'SDS', for the type of chuck).

When comparing this type of drill you will usually find that, as well as power rating, they have the impact energy in kJ (kiloJoules) quoted. Obviously bigger is better. Most can also have the chuck locked so that it can also be used for chiselling, tile removing etc.

IMO - if you are going to be drilling concrete, you would be well advised to pick an SDS drill. You won't regret it.

P.S. As noted in the comments: Both are routinely described as "Hammer Drills". The distinguishing feature of the better type is the SDS chuck.


New thermostat wire: maximum number of wires?

Since your question relates to "future proofing," it all depends on where you think thermostat technology is headed.  These days, I would not ever install less than 18/7 thermostat wire if I had a choice.  This also happens to be the number of wires that you need for your setup if you tie your humidifier common to the system common and use the ecobee3 "1-wire configuration" for the accessory setup instead of using the 2-wire configuration that assigns the accessory terminals as independent dry contacts.

The future is probably digital.  If you want to cover all likely residential possibilities then pull two cables, an 18/8 thermostat wire and a CAT5 (or better) network wire.


What kind of a bathroom vent is this? How do I open it?

We have a fan like that.  The external body pulls straight down a couple inches and hangs on a pair of wire, spring-like supports.  From there, you can access the light bulb and a bit of the fan.

I haven't done it, but from there, I would assume you can remove the fan and get a look at the vent pipe.  For us, the alternative would be to attempt to access from above via the attic.  That may be an option for you.