You'll want to start by contacting your service provider, and asking them if there is a problem with their distribution system. Ask if they're providing poor service due to high demand. If they're not aware of any problems in your area, you should ask them if they can come out and verify you have a good hookup.  If everything with the electric company checks out, you'll want to have a licensed Electrician come have a look inside your home.


How to remove in wall speaker grill/frame

On some speakers the grill part, not the bezel or frame of the grill assembly, but the actual grill with the small holes in it is pressed into the bezel/frame.
You take a tool with a point small enough to fit in the holes, or even a very small screwdriver, and you gently pry the grill up and out of the bezel/frame. You want to try and get a hold of the side of the grill just before it enters the bezel.  You need to be careful and not try to pull to much out at once and bend the grill. Work your way out in both directions from one corner until you can get that corner free.
On my JBL control 5 this is what i have to do, and your grill material look exactly the same as my JBL's.  There is a pliable mastic in the groove that "holds" the grill in place, once you get one corner up you can work it  little by little around the grill.
If this works then there should be mounting screws visible to remove the bezel, or the speaker may be attached to the bezel and the whole unit comes out.
To reassemble you just push the grill back into the groove in the bezel.
I do not know if this how your speaker is constructed so proceed with caution.
All that said, If you can not figure it out, you can use painters tape and carefully tape around the bezel, paint and remove the tape before the paint dries.


self leveling layer with internal French drain

How long do you plan to keep the house?

I'd just get the tiles tested and remediated.  How many square feet are you thinking about?

Self level isn't cheap and if you want to make your basement usable at some time in the future you probably want to do something more through.

I've fixed up a number of 1920 basements that had sump pits for ground water collection, no vapor barrier, brick / thin concrete or some other kind of weak terrible floor.

Generally I'd remove the existing floor, remove some dirt, add interior perimeter drains, add a modern sump pit, add a drainage layer, add some insulation, add a radon/vapor barrier, add a pipe for future passive/active radon mitigation, re-pour slab.  Sometimes I underpin the foundation to gain height.


What types of filing tool is more suitable for this task

For a small screw, a warding file with a flat edge. For a larger screw a normal flat metal file with a flat edge.

By flat file I mean one with a rectangular cross section. These usually have cutting teeth on the larger "face" sides. The thinner edges usually have one narrow edge with teeth and one narrow edge that is a smooth "safe" edge without any teeth. You can buy these at any DIY/hardware store.

This assumes the screw is a normal unhardened steel or brass machine screw of modest size.

A fairly common way to remove stubborn, seized, corroded or damaged screws is heat, penetrating oil and a "screw extractor"


Wire color standards for ceiling fan and lights, power from the switch in the USA

There is not an end all standard for wire colors, especially with all the DIYers running around.
If the fan will be controlled by the pull chain, it would be likely to have the black feed pigtailed to the switch and to the black going to the fan box to control the fan motor. Then the red would go from the switch to the fan box as a switched hot to control the light. The white wires would be wire nutted together in the switch box and the white wire at the fan box would be connected to the white wire from the fan. If there were double switches to control the fan and the light separately, then the black wire would be pigtailed to both switches and the black and red would be connected each to a switch. Then at the fan box either black or red could be connected to the motor and light of the fan.


What is the purpose of a dishwasher elbow?

Typically there is very little clearance behind the dishwasher and the back of the cabinet.

A hose attached directly to the inlet might have to be bent and kinked in order to fit.  That would not be good.  The elbow allows the supply line to run parallel to the back of the dishwasher without taking up much room.

As for the ¾" versus ⅜" connectors, again typically the nearby sink would have a shutoff valve with a ⅜" connector, so a standard ⅜" connecting hose would be the obvious thing to use.

It doesn't mean that one can't use other types of hoses, only that one would have to go out of their way to need to.


You are correct regarding the dust filters... in fact the "caking" particles can sometimes improve filtration... so the cartridges only need to be replaced when damaged, soiled or when they unacceptably obstruct breathing.
As for chemical filters... this depends a great deal on the chemicals being dealt with, as each will have different properties.
Each cartridge should have a specified service life or change schedule... nonetheless, for vapors and certain organic compounds 3M™ recommends that they be used for only a single shift exposure

Can chemical cartridges be used for more than one shift?
Organic vapors are removed by the process of adsorption.
Weak physical forces hold the organic vapor on the
activated carbon. Since these forces are weak, the process
can be reversed and the organic vapor can be desorbed.
Desorption during storage or nonuse periods can result in
the migration of the chemical through the cartridge.
Migration is mainly a concern only for organic vapor
cartridges. Organic vapors adsorbed on an organic vapor
cartridge can migrate through the carbon bed without
airflow. Desorption of very volatile contaminants can
occur after a short period (hours) without use (e.g.,
overnight). Partial use of the chemical cartridge and
subsequent reuse could potentially expose the user to the
contaminant. This is most significant for the most volatile
and poorly retained organic vapors (e.g., boiling point < 65°C). For organic vapors with a boiling point less than
65°C, it is recommended that the organic vapor cartridge
never be used longer than one shift even if the estimated
service life is greater than 8 hours and the cartridge is
used for only a short time during the shift.


How do I stop a door from swinging open without taking out the pins?

It looks like your in a pickle with the boss's restrictions. Isherwood was right in reguards to the door framing being out of plumb. My suggestion would be to invest a couple of dollars for a rubber wedge type stopper,and put it under the door to hold it back where you want it. Good luck!


Removing and adding skirting boards when installing floors?

Yes, carpet can be installed without removing the skirting because slightly uneven carpet edges can be stuffed down between the tack strips and the skirting. For wood and tile, straight edges are harder to come by and even a 1/16 of an inch looks bad. The same goes for vinyl, that straight edge will be hard to get. Your alternative to removing the skirting is to add a quarter round piece of molding all the way around the room after laying the vinyl.


Please help with 3 way dimmer hookup with existing 2 way switches

This isn't so hard once you figure out what's what

From the instructions you posted, we know that the black wire on your new dimmer is  the common, and the two red wires on the dimmer are the two travelers.  Coming from the wall, we can tell that the black wire that is spliced to the wire going off to the single pole switch is the always-hot feed coming in from the fact it's connected to that single pole switch, as well as another incoming wire.  This means that we can safely hook that up to the black wire on the dimmer, and also connect the green wire on the dimmer to the grounding bundle in the box if present or land it on a ground screw in the back of the box if there's no grounds present, then connect the remaining open wires from the wall to the red wires from the dimmer since we know they're the travelers by process of elimination.


GFCI combination switch and outlet to fully switched protected outlet

Couple things wrong in the diagram - you have 2 neutrals labeled going to the outlet for the disposal and 2 hots tied together. It should look like this:

The garbage disposal is on the right.  It's unclear from your diagram, but if there are other GFCI outlets downstream you would connect them to the load terminals on the bottom of your combo and tie the ground in with the rest of them.

One thing I would mention about the garbage disposal though - don't use a normal outlet for it, use a fused outlet like this one:

Ground fault only protects against shock hazards - fused outlets protect against motor stalling (i.e. it gets jammed). Most AC motors will not overload the circuit if they stall, especially a 20A kitchen branch. This will not only protect your motor if you drop silverware or something down the drain, but it is also required by code in many if not most areas.  Make sure you size the fuse appropriately for the motor (you'll likely find a fuse rating in the installation instructions for the disposal).


What type of breakers is this and how should they be switched back on?

These are tandem/cheater breakers. They are double circuit but on the same leg/phase of the panel. When two are next to each other as shown in your picture and with the handle ties, they are protecting a 240 Volt circuit. As such, they have to be operated at the same time. To turn on or off, put your fingers on the two tabs/ handles that are connected and push in the direction to turn on or off. That would be the two in the middle with the round handle ties and the two outside with the rectangular handle ties. The only concern is that the two controlling a 240 Volt circuit are both on or off and the handle ties ensure that.


How can I connect a timer to my bathroom exhaust fan?

I'm not sure about the UK, but in the US we have in-wall timer units that are often used for this purpose. Like this Maestro timer from Lutron.


Why is there an oily substance on the connector in my circuit breaker?

Sometime a dielectric grease is applied to the connections of a circuit breakers when they are installed, and it can appear to be dripping from the wires..

diy.stackexchange.com/questions/146945/…
Courtesy of Ed Beal And Isherwood

If this is it, leave it in place and don't worry it is supposed to be there.


What are the code requirements for crossing a buried LPG line with an electric line?

FYI: The local propane company requires that I maintain a 12" vertical separation with my electric line, so it must dip to 32"+, supplying 12" of separation under the crossing LPG pipe; in No. Calif.


Acceptable joist depth for a second set of ceiling-only joists

You’re dealing with “impact sound control “ not “airborne sound control “.  Stacking 2 layers of 5/8” gypsum board on “hat channels “ is not the best way to control impact sound.
First
We control impact sound (walking in high heels, dropping objects, etc.) at the source by using

soft materials to walk on, (carpet, cushioned vinyl flooring, etc.), and
isolate the underlayment from the subfloor and joists with sound absorbing fiber board. If you don’t have access to the floor above your unit, then adding sound control below is difficult...but not impossible.

Second
Isolating your ceiling from the floor above is correct, but using Resilient Channels, not hat channels. The transfer of impact noises down to your space needs to be isolated....that’s why adding ceiling material to the bottom of the floor joists does not work AND WHY using hat channels does not work as well as Resilient Channels.
Yes, the new ceiling joists (isolated from the floor joist above) helps isolate the ceiling from the floor above, but impact noises travels through the framing. Hat channels do not isolate the impact noise.

By the way, your loading seems a little light:

two layers of 5/8” gypsum board is 6.25 psf,
hat channels is about .5 psf,
new 2x6 joists at 16” oc is 1.5 psf,

PLUS, I would add:

rock wool insulation at 4” at 2 psf,
1/2” fiber sound board at 2 psf and misc. (lights, etc.) at 1 psf...

for a total dead load of 13.25 psf. (Even the crappiest grade of 2x6 at 16” oc will support that for 12’)
I’d recommend:

isolating the ceiling joists from the wall by installing sound board between the new ceiling joists and the wall,
installing 4” of rock wool in the existing floor joists, in the stud spaces and on top of the new ceiling,
don’t install your light in the ceiling (cutting s hole for a wire allows sound into your space,
install 1/2” sound deadening board on top of your new ceiling joists (if possible,
install 5/8” gypsum board on RC -1 channels on gypsum board on RC-1 channels on the 2x6 ceiling joists,
caulk the perimeter with sound control caulk...leave the 1/4” spacing at the wall as per your insert you referenced.

Yes, two layers of gypsum board is better than one, and separating the layers with RC channels is best.


Can I use pavers as a cheap solution to stop rain water erosion?

The pavers will definitely take care of the moat and deflect the rain water. However, you will still get some rain from the roof hitting the pavers and splashing against your wall. Don't forget about the wind, rain doesn't usually fall straight down so you'll get that wetness too. Long term solution would be gutters.


Plywood vs. OSB vs. AdvanTech - for subflooring?

First that subfloor should be packed with insulation.   Second if you are not sure what flooring you are putting down - go with plywood.
If you want to reduce squeaks then glue your plywood down first and then screw it in.   Advantech may be better than OSB but glue sticks to plywood the best and plywood conforms to your joists better over time after glued/screwed.
I have put in a lot of flooring and here is what I think when building...

if I am building someone a new home I might choose Advantech because ease of installation and maybe it doesn't get ruined before all structure is up...
if I am building my home then plywood


Heat pump + hydronics is a fantastic combo, provided you can get an air handler that supports it

While you are correct that the combination of a heat pump with hydronic backup heat is uncommon, it is not bad by any stretch of the imagination -- when an efficient boiler is used, it will beat a forced-air "dual fuel" setup any day of the week when it comes to overall fuel efficiency as the hydronic setup can run the hydronic coil at part load to make up what the heat pump can't provide, something a forced-air furnace can't do, and is far easier on your house's infrastructure (and the electric grid!) than all-electric setups are, especially in cold-climate areas.

However, due to this rarity, not all heat pump manufacturers provide air handlers that have hydronic coils factory fitted in place of the normal electric standby heat.  I am not certain if Bosch provides that option; if not, you will need a skilled HVAC shop's assistance to field-fabricate or field-modify an air handler for your setup.

You probably want a water tank somewhere in your setup though

However, on the hot-water side of the picture, you probably do not want the boiler to try to serve hot water loads directly -- this is inefficient as it forces the boiler to try to balance between competing needs.  Instead, the superior approach is to use an indirect tank hot water heater that runs as a hydronic zone off the boiler, with the water in the tank is heated from the boiler water via an internal heat exchanger.

A high-efficiency boiler and indirect tank is as efficient as a good gas water heater, while providing excellent longevity with the availability of stainless steel or cement-lined tanks (vs the normal glass-lined steel tank) and superior capacity due to the extra heat exchanger area compared to most gas water heater designs.  It also avoids the comfort issues that are possible in tankless setups (such as the "cold water sandwich" problem), and requires less peak capacity from the gas service.


Is there a voltage drop test that ensure that electrical wiring in house is safe?

Your math all checks out.  You can calculate the actual resistance (sounds like in excess of 1.0 ohms) and/or you can go to a "voltage drop calculator" and compare the voltage drop you should get given your length, vs what you're actually getting.

Certainly, 150 watts cannot be attributed to wire drop alone.  Heat is being made somewhere.  If you inspect the circuit after it's run at spec for awhile, you would find the problem area to be notably warm.   At 9A nothing should be warm.  Unless the wiring is much longer than you think, it is certainly a bad splice. Backstabs are the usual culprit, but so can be limp wristed wire nuts.

The dead giveaway of bad wire-nut work is when the nuts are taped on; the person has found that they won't hold together by themselves, they think that is normal for wire nuts, and they think tape is the cure.  Actually, the refusing to hold together indicates they are also making poor electrical connection, and that means arcing faults will develop inside the nut.

You may want to consider fitting an arc-fault breaker on this circuit. That is your best bet to improving safety given these symptoms.


Sand and finish old wood floors, just aesthetic?

Although finish treatment of old wood flooring might (to some small degree) fill small gaps between planks, this is not the primary purpose (nor will it do that very well).

As you suspect, the primary benefits are aesthetics and protection. As an added benefit, a finished wood floor is also easier to keep clean.


Low voltage circuits inside mains conduit

This is a case where what ordinarily would be a Class 2 control circuit is redesignated as a Class 1 control circuit, as per Exception 2 to 725.130(A):

  Exception No.2: Class 2 and Class 3 circuits shall be
  permitted to be reclassified and installed as Class 1 circuits
  if the Class 2 and Class 3 markings required in 725.124 are
  eliminated and the entire circuit is installed using the wiring methods and materials in accordance with Part II,
  Class 1 circuits.

Once that is out of the way, 725.46 applies (allowing the use of Chapter 3 wiring methods as you are doing), but 725.48(B)(1) also applies:

  (1) In a Cable, Enclosure, or Raceway. Class 1 circuits
  and power-supply circuits shall be permitted to occupy the
  same cable, enclosure, or raceway only where the equipment powered is functionally associated.

Considering that you have relay control wiring being run with the circuits they are powering, I do not believe you will have any trouble meeting that requirement.


No power to bathroom lights and two outlets

It was an open hot after all, I purchased a wire toner and used it to follow the wires in the wall until I found a box with a faulty wire nut in it. Replaced the hot bundle firmly together and applied a new wire nut all is well.

Thanks all.


What is the max distance between top of gutter and the roof tiles?

3-5 centimeters is in the 2-3 inch range.

Any more and you run the risk of water running off the tile and overshooting the gutter.

The gap can vary some because the gutters must slope towards the downspout.

Edit post comments: When you install your new gutters, put the point furthest from the downspout at the highest possible point against the bottom of the roof, and then slope gradually down to your downspout.  You're never going to hit the "maximum" that way.


Solid door on top of hollow apartment door to reduce outside noise?

I doubt if adding a smaller door would make any difference.

In “sound control”, you want to attack the weak link. That’s why you’re suggesting fixing the door problem rather than improving the sound control in the wall.

Too bad you can’t temporarily replace the hollow core door with a solid core door, but perhaps 1) adding a screen door, 2) adding weatherstripping, 3) adding insulated panels to the inside to cover the entire doorway, etc. will help.


The switch was probably damaged by a short circuit caused by wiring your fixture incorrectly.

So - how do you fix?

Step 1:  Turn off the fuse/breaker that was blown/tripped when you caused the short

Step 2:  Remove the face plate for the broken switch

Step 3:  Remove the screws that anchor the switch in the electrical box.  Do not remove any wires.

Step 4:  Study the switch and make careful note of where each wire connects.  The old switch should have markings on it that indicate things like "hot", "neutral" and "ground".  Take some sticky labels like mailing labels and write down each connection on a label and stick that label on the wire before you remove it from the switch.

Step 5:  After you've labelled all the wires and removed the switch, take it to your local hardware store and buy a replacement.

Step 6:  Come home and reconnect the wires exactly as they were before.

Step 7:  Mount the switch in the box.  Replace the face plate.  Turn on the power in the fuse/breaker box.


Suspect water heater is using too much gas

It might be a small leak or several very small leaks.  I had a leak in my Philadelphia home for years and had no clue.  During remodel, I replaced the gas pipes (same appliances), and my gas bill unexpectedly went down by $50 for the summer months.  A bubble test will not do.  Obtain a real gas leak tester, and thoroughly and methodically test each joint.


If the smell remains after you have fully removed the old carpet and padding and you let the air circulate through room and the window by using a box fan or two then you may very well want to consider replacing the plywood as well.

The original problem could be caused by cold moist air rising from the garage into the living space above. It could even have been aggravated to some extent by car exhaust and other oil/paint/chemical usage in the garage by the former owner.

Before you put down new plywood you may want to investigate whether a vapor barrier under the plywood would be a reasonable thing to do. It may very well require a consultation with an expert in your region and such decision would also be dependent upon if there is already a barrier installed such as poly, foil backed insulation or even foil backed drywall on the garage ceiling.


Can I attach a kitchen vent and a dryer vent to the same exhaust?

You're mixing grease with lint, which is only going to make a mess and clog up in no time. You could also create a situation where dryer exhaust goes back into your house instead of outside, causing excessive humidity and a mold/mildew risk. The workaround for that would be to install dampers, but those would likely get jammed with the grease/lint combination. And that's assuming that this would be within code, which I suspect it isn't, or every builder would cut the corner. So, in short, my suggestion is that you don't even consider joining the two.

Also, a suggestion, only use flex pipe for the final hookup to each device, and cut away any excess flex tubing. The rest should be rigid metal venting for durability and to give you the best airflow.


Shared neutrals could cause this.  If the two circuits are both in a box together somewhere, and the neutrals from the two circuits are tied together, this could cause this problem.

It's common practice for DIYers (and some "professionals") to simply connect all the neutrals in a box together. If there are two circuits present in the box, simply connecting all the neutrals together is not proper. In the past, this normally didn't cause any noticeable problems. However, now that GFCI and AFCI protection is common, this bad wiring practice becomes more apparent.


When the light was in did the switches work correctly where 1 switch can turn the light off or on? Then the other could turn the light on or off.
 Wiring is not going to cause a light to blow if the switches work correctly.
There may be problems with the main or another load is creating large spikes shorting the life. Here in the US I purchased cases of lamps prior to the outlaw of standard 100w bulbs , some of those old bulbs burn right out because they were not well made but if the switches work correctly there is another problem.
Added since op said switches working.
If the switches work properly the wiring at this point is not the problem.
 Especially with 3 way switch setups it is difficult to tell if properly wired, the only thing that could be wrong is the neutral is being switched and or the hot and neutral are swapped at the fixture. Even if this was the case it would not affect bulb life.

Things that do affect bulb life are large voltage spikes and over voltage. I am guessing the reason everything tripped out is that when the filament in the lamp failed it shorted, this failure is not uncommon it has happened to me and I have been called several times because the breaker kept tripping At customer homes, remove bad lamp and everything is good.
Could there be something wrong with your fixture? Yes it could have caused the short but that is unlikely. Looking at the wires if no burn marks or bad insulation it was probably the fulfilment in the lamp.
Last one thing the fixture can contribute to a shortened life if the center contact is arcing (not a tight contact) this can erode the base of the lamp but I would expect you to notice that and probably hear it but that's the fixture and not the wiring.
Hope that helps.


These units are designed to be outside, so there's no reason to cover it. If you're really concerned about it, go ahead and cover it. Just make sure you don't restrict the airflow, as that can impact how well the unit works.

The manufacture likely recommends annual cleaning, and maintenance. Which will probably do more good for the unit than the cover.


Completely flat/flush recessed lighting trim

I have seen this done.  There is no special trim.

Steps:

Install trim
Take a utility knife and scribe around the trim exactly.
take out enough drywall layer to set trim - some guys just take off the paper
mud and sand where needed after reinstalling flush trim

Does it look better?  Debatable.  Is it worth it?  Almost in all cases no.

Note: My opinion above is that of a joe-average drywall/mudder.  I am in no form an expert and I have a crew I hire for high end jobs.  I am sure that my crew could make the trim look perfect in a ceiling.  Also you would probably have to get more expensive trim pieces as most of the cheap ones are grooved and wouldn't look right for this install.


I'm thinking that the pump handle must be on a different line, after the pressure tank.…if the pump handle was plumbed directly on a T from the well line and before the pressure tank, there's no way for the pump to get activated to supply pressure to the pump handle

That reasoning is erroneous.
The pressure for the system is pretty much the same throughout, not counting friction losses while the water is moving and other tiny effects like that. If you open a valve anywhere in the system, the pressure for the entire system drops. It doesn't matter where the valve is.

Anyone know how these are generally plumbed before I dig it out and take a look?

There's not really any "generally plumbed", other than most installers will follow the path of least resistance. There's not any good reason that there should be a separate line from the pressure tank back to the spigot, so by far the most likely configuration is that there's a water line from the well to the spigot, and then from there to the pressure tank and the rest of the system.
One possible exception might be if there is a check-valve between the spigot and the pressure tank.
In many jurisdictions irrigation lines are required to be isolated from the household/potable water supply using a double-check-valve to ensure that no contaminated water can go backwards from the irrigation line into the potable line. But note that that sort of check-valve prevents backflow from the spigot, not backflow from the pressure tank. Only the latter type of check-valve would interfere with the operation of the spigot and require a separate line back to the spigot and there's no good reason to install one like that.
The usual double-check-valve configuration wouldn't pose any problem at all with respect to the pressure switch for the well.
Another possible exception might be if there is a water treatment system (e.g. filter, softener, etc.) present and there was a desire for the water from the spigot to be treated. In that case, a line would have to return to the spigot from the output site of the treatment.
I don't think these kinds of exceptions are likely. But of course there's no way to rule them out completely.
There remains the question of why you want to know how the lines are plumbed. Presumably you have some other broader goal in mind that you are trying to solve. Without knowing what that goal is, it's impossible to help with it. Consider posting a new question where you explain that goal, describe what you've done so far to solve it, and what specifically you need help with.


Are 11 outlets on a 15 amp breaker too many?

probably not, but there are a few other things wrong too.

Pretty sure that the bathroom outlet needs to be a 20amp (with 12 gauge wire) on a separate dedicated circuit.  think about this if you plugged in a 1800 Watt hairdryer you are maxxing the line and then you still have 10 other devices :)
Also, the circuit from the bathroom should not lead outside i think with the exception directly to another bathroom outlet.

Whoever wired it up clearly missed a few points there and probably more -

ideally you want your circuit to serve a purpose whether it is lighting, or a room or some critical service.


Corroded Sink Drain Cover Removal Suggestions

Use a "mini-hack" saw, they work great for actually slicing the drain spud then grabbing it with Channellocks, crushing it, then pulling it out.

Or you could attack from below with a long-shank sacrificial slotted screwdriver and bust the corroded nut off by pounding the screwdriver with a hammer and using it like a chisel.

Brute force carefully applied will do the trick, I've done it many times.


Waterproofing nail holes in a hardwood bathroom floor?

Without the ability to dry on both sides, your hardwood flooring will eventually warp and crack unless you completely seal the surface.

You can use woods like Ipe and Teak in wet situations (and indeed, those are the woods traditionally used for ship decks) but I don't think Tasmanian Blackwood has the same resistance. There's at least one amazing bathroom designer here in Houston that built an Ipe shower floor...

... but that's got the drain below a 'tray' made out of ipe that can be removed so that it can be cleaned, refinished and/or repaired easily. It's strips of Ipe with gaps between them that are then nailed to cross-pieces that sit in the sloped pan of the shower. I'm not totally clear from your posting, but from what I think you're looking for something like that for your entire bathroom?

The only other alternative that I can think of for you is face-nailing the wood, and then sealing it completely with an epoxy polyurethane. However, this floor will be extremely slippery when wet.

But, in general, wood floors in bathrooms are a bad idea and are something that you should rethink.


Why does an air-conditioner need maintenance and a fridge does not?

A refrigerator is different from a (whole house) A/C in a few ways.

Similar to a window unit A/C it's a "factory built packaged unit" -
it's been assembled and tested under carefully controlled conditions
on an assembly line. In my experience, other than cleaning the
filters, a window A/C does not need "regular service" and like many
refrigerators when it does hit a point of needing service it's not
designed to be easily serviceable, and it is usually non-economical to repair
the refrigeration system when it does fail, eventually.
A refrigerator is normally running several to many times a day, every day, every month, every year.
A whole house A/C is field assembled from components. The joints that are assembled in the field are often mechanical, though they are sometimes brazed, but they are brazed under field conditions which are often not ideal, while a factory-made unit will be brazed under nearly ideal conditions. The lines run long distances exposed to potential damage. There is far more potential for leaks.
Any A/C is usually not running many months of the year, and sometimes this causes problems with components that have sat idle for months when the system starts up again. Corrosion or decay may be more likely.
Most A/C units have parts that sit out in the weather. Most refrigerators do not.

A refrigerator should be cleaned regularly, especially the airflow around the coils, which is maintenance. I assume from your question wording that you are referring to active maintenance of the refrigeration system contents, not cleaning (which is maintenance and does prolong its life.)


How can I duct through a new cabinet from a floor vent opening at the wall?

Why do you need a duct? Most bathroom vanities, for example, are wide open from a slot in the floor to the louver on the kick panel. Just close off the compartment by any convenient means and call it a day. Staple some cardboard in if that works.

And parts from a big box store should work just fine. A common 2x10 or whatever size duct could be laid right in place with an opening cut in the bottom for the floor vent and the flaps flipped outward to close the rest of the opening. I think you're thinking too hard. It's just air. :)


How to remove rust from desktop computer cabinet case

The original metal finish inside a PC it typically a type of zinc plating. no paint will exactly match it.

1: I don't know of any chemical that will remove rust without also attacking the plating. fish oil will stop the rust, but it take a long time to dry.

2: galvanised iron primer

3: take it to a paint shop, they'll probably be able to match the finish better than anyone can guess over the internet.

Consider going to a new finish, using automotive paints, you get a custom look at about the same expense as a repair.

It rusts because the zinc coating is applied to the sheet metal before the case is assembled, so all the cut edges have no plating. also something must be getting it wet, perhaps something causes condensation?


If you're only worried about the water heater, then you can turn it off and drain it.
Shut off the gas
You should see a gas pipe connected to the unit. It will likely either be rigid black pipe, or flexible yellow pipe.  Follow that pipe until you find the shutoff valve. It should be a quarter-turn ball valve, so you'll only have to turn it a quarter turn to shut it off.
An easy way to tell if the valve is open or closed, is to look at the handle.  If the handle is in line with the pipe (parallel), then the valve is open. If the handle is across the pipe  (perpendicular), then the valve is closed.
Shut off the water
Since you're only concerned about the tank, you only have to turn off the water feeding the tank.  Locate the cold water supply pipe (possibly marked with a blue ring on the tank). Follow the pipe until you find a valve. In this case, it could be a ball valve or a gate valve.  As with the gas valve, a ball valve will only require a quarter turn. A gate valve, however, will require multiple turns to shut.
Drain the tank
Connect one end of a garden hose to the spigot at the bottom of the tank, and run the other end to a drain that's lower than the spigot.  Open the hot water valve on a few faucets in the house, to allow air into the plumbing.  Open the valve on the spigot at the bottom of the tank.
CAUTION The water draining from the tank will be HOT.
If you have time,  turn the tank off and allow the water to cool before draining the tank. This could take a bit, as the tank is designed to hold the heat.
When you get home
When you come back, make sure the spigot at the bottom of the tank is closed. Open the valve on the cold water supply line, and allow the tank to fill. You'll know it's full, when water starts coming out of the faucets you opened throughout the house.
NOTE: As the plumbing fills, air will come out of the open faucets. As the system nears full, water and air will spit and sputter from the faucets.
Once full, close the faucets.  Turn on the gas, and follow the instructions on the tank to turn it on (light pilot, etc.).


A three-way switch is not necessary. You can connect a single-pole single-throw in parallel with the spring timer.

EDIT: Future readers should note that this is electrician-safe only because both switches are in the same gang box. With the switches in separate boxes, someone working on this circuit in future might be surprised to find voltage on what he thought was a load wire that he had just switched off.

Also note that this is equipment-safe only because a simple mechanical spring timer can tolerate hot voltage on its load terminal. (In fact the spring timer probably does not have "LINE" and "LOAD" labels.)

If anyone ever wants to cobble together a similar setup with a timer that (1) doesn't have an "ON" setting, and (2) may not tolerate hot voltage on its LOAD terminal, then he will need a three-way switch. But it can't be wired according to your proposed circuit. Instead, the timer must be wired between the mains power and the three-way.

Here the three-way selects between the always-on hot or the timer switched hot. It never feeds power back upstream.


Power to a light, through two lights and then to a switch

If you are in the U.S.A. and the wiring was installed before 2011, it probably looks like this. Note the colored tape or paint mark on the white wire used as a switched hot:

NEC 2011 and later calls for a neutral wire to be present in each switch box (to accommodate smart switches) so if your wiring is new it might look like this:


Refrigerator making strange sound every few minutes

my fridge had exactly the same problem and it turned out to be a failing relay. this relay was part of a safety recall because when it failed, it was possible for it to catch fire.

please call your manufacturer and find out if this is the same problem.


How do I repair a wall after mild water damage?

Patch the holes, prime, then paint.

Usually when I patch walls I end up priming and painting the entire wall, it's more work but I find it looks much better when I'm done.


How do I grip stainless steel pipes for threading?

You've chosen a real challenge, actually fitting threaded pipe.  Hardly anyone does that anymore.

Stainless isn't harder than other steels.  You just need to use a pipe wrench or pipe vise.  This will gouge the pipe, but that is normal in pipefitting.   If you want no-gouge, you can try rubber gripper pads as are often used on kitchens.

If you're dealing in thinwall tubing, different story.


I would venture to say that if you remove that cement, the people in the apartment above you would land in your apartment. Your entire building is probably made of poured concrete and you're seeing the bottom of the upstairs apartment's floor.
The Styrofoam™ sheets you're seeing are for sound and thermal insulation between your apartment and the one above.
I'd suggest that you'll want to cut off the torn Styrofoam to create neat, square edges, replace it, then paint over it.
Also, you say "apartment" - to me, that implies that you're renting. I presume you have permission to do the renovation work? Often landlords don't like it when you start messing with their property without permission...


An electrician put a double 60 amp breaker in place of two 15 amp breakers

Assuming this description is correct, The solution is to fire that electrician, get another to fix it (I wouldn't trust this guy), report him, and possibly ask a lawyer whether it's worth suing.

What other answer did you expect?


Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently?

Matthew PK offers some very specific instructions. I happen to disagree with most of them, but they may work for some windows.  I will simply state that every new window comes with specific installation instructions.  You should follow them.  Otherwise you will void the manufacturer's warranty.

Here is an informative article from Fine Homebuilding:

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/install-replacement-windows-and-flashing-correctly.aspx

As far as fastening the jamb extensions to the trimmer stud goes - unless the window installation instructions specifically forbid it you may want to shim and trim screw just to guarantee plumb/square.  The casing is typically what connects the jamb extension to the trimmer studs.


If the package does not say "dimmable" then it is not dimmable - it might dim and it might not, it might just burn out.

CREE in their print declares they work with most dimmers.
Philips bulbs are marked clearly on the package as well.
Other manufacturers like el-cheapos, they are cheap for a reason generally no dimming.

LED's have a frequency driver in them for the power output to "drive" the LED - so what happens is that frequency regulates the power for the LED.

SOME TRUTH'S ABOUT DIMMERS AND LED's.

Not all dimmers work with LED bulbs.
Dimmers will not necessarily work with all LED bulbs.
Not all LED bulbs are dimmable.

EDIT 4-30-2017

I have provided the links below for some of the products between Philips and Cree. My personal preference is Cree - they seem to be the all inclusive bulb - compatible with many dimmers, compatible in damp locations (i.e. Showers) and their warranty is EASY. I had a 100 Watter in my garage - it went out - I called them they asked for the model and sent me a replacement - done deal. I also have an older one my daughter dropped and the glass broke - well I trimmed up the glass to the base and use it in my mechanics drop light for working on the car.

Philips Dimmer Compatibility Sheet

Philips USA dimmable-led

Philips USA choose-a-bulb

creebulb.com/dimmers

CREE A-19

Cree Compatible Dimmers


Should I insulate air conditioner coolant pipes?

The large, cold, low pressure line, carrying the evaporated refrigerant from the house, should be insulated to prevent condensation. The small, warm, high pressure line, carrying condensed refrigerant into the house, should not be insulated. I am not an air conditioning professional. However, en.allexperts.com, www.bobvila.com, and www.familyhandyman.com, all agree with me. See references below.
Explanation: The unit outside the house compresses the refrigerant from the large line. This makes the refrigerant very hot. Then the refrigerant is run through the condenser coils and the fan blows outside air over them to remove the heat and condense the refrigerant back to liquid. The small line now carries the warm liquid refrigerant back into the house. No insulation is needed on this line because it is still warmer than the outside air. If the air cools it some more, that only helps. In the house, the pressurized liquid refrigerant is allowed to rapidly decompress into the evaporator coil. The instant drop in pressure causes an instant drop in temperature, making the evaporator coil very cold. Interior air is blown over this coil, cooling the air and warming the coil and refrigerant. The evaporated refrigerant, which is still rather cold, now flows out of the house in the large pipe. It does not help us for this refrigerant to get warmer after it leaves the evaporator coils. It just makes it harder to compress and cool in the condenser coils. So we want to prevent condensation on this pipe. That is the reason for the insulation.

(source: reimanpub.com)
From this site:

"the skinny tube doesn't need insulation"

From another source:

"As you have seen, the large refrigerant line carries cold vapor while air conditioning, and on a humid day it sweats. The main reason we insulate the pipe is to prevent humid air from coming into contact with it." "For the small copper tube you do not need insulation. Just make sure that it does not contact masonry or other metal."

The following site provides good step by step maintenance instructions.


Can moisture travel through a microporous filler and fuel mould growth?

If you read the technical data, they recommend another product to fill holes, cracks, etc. Then this product is recommended for smoothing out surfaces, bonding to various substrates, etc.
If there’s moisture in the wall or coming through the wall, it will allow staining, mold, etc.


Slight plumbing leak in 1930s threaded pipes

Your only real DIY option is to wrap it in Flex Tape. The stuff works and should be good for at least a decade.
Other than that, you'd have to hire a Plumber to turn off the water at the street for a new valve to go in. That's how it was for me, but call your utility and see it they'll do it and wait for you to put in a new valve.
Anyway, the Plumber won't just turn off your water and wait around to turn it back on, they'll demand the whole job...typically.
Just so you know, the Ford will need to be removed and an expansion tank will be added to your water heater assembly...if there isn't one already.
FYI, start saving up now for full replacement of that galvanized out to the street, minimum...it's got maybe 10-years left.
And, NEVER, do PEX. It's plastic and therefore garbage.(period) The inventor admits that chlorinated water was his obstacle and the only way to defeat it was to leach sacrificial toxins to combat it.
See mrpexsystems, it's a hoot of failure. And, NO PEX has been around for 40-years! That's ALL a LIE and is completely confessed that PEX didn't EVER go beyond experiment until 2003.
PEX is only "good" for 25-years and then NEEDS full replacement. Stick with sweated copper for everything and only use a real Plumber that can sweat a joint. I'm just saying.


My fridge runs way too much - is this because it doesn't seem to be level?

A fridge motor is controlled by a thermostat - a device that reacts to temperature inside the fridge. So fridge motor starts/stops are completely agnostic to whether the fridge is level, the only practical consequence of fridge being non-level is extra noise.

The most likely reason for fridge motor running too often are the following:

loose gasket around the door - as the fridge gets older the gasket loses shape and no longer seals the interior letting cold air out and warm air in. This is addressed by replacing the gasket.
users putting hot stuff in - the fridge has to run for a long time to cool down a glass of hot water or a hot pan, only room-temperature or colder stuff should be put into the fridge to avoid that
users opening the door too often


What can I use to adequately insulate round rigid metal ducts?

Owens Corning's 3" Type 75 SOFTR® Duct Wrap FRK, touts and installed R-value of 8.3.

If it's not in-stock at your local big box store, they should be able to order it for you.

I am in no way affiliated with Owens Corning, and do not recommend or endorse the use of any of their products or services.


Where to locate moisture barrier in engineered hardwood floor sandwich placed over insulation board?

I am curious what you consider to be "very very cold". Here in Maine, 45 to 50 degrees at slab level 4 feet below grade is common. So interested in what temps you may have and the average relative humidity in that space.
With those questions asked; the straight answer to your question is yes, you should use a vapor barrier when installing any wood type floor over concrete. Both methods you mentioned would work. A one inch foam insulation, closed cell, waterproof, under the subfloor would be fine. If you use the tongue and grove style and fit it carefully, additional vapor barrier should not be needed. You can add a sheet of 6 mil plastic under the insulation for good measure if you feel the humidity is high in your area and are concerned with condensation. Another option is a paint on barrier such as Hydra-loc or any low pressure concrete coating used for interior waterproofing. Again, use this under your foamboard insulation. The one step method is the interlocking subfloor systems with a built in moisture barrier. this works well but is very pricey.


How do I get a yellow stain out of a marble sink?

If this is real marble, you are unfortunately stuck with what you got. once a stain is set in unsealed marble, it is next to impossible to remove. The only method is to mechanically repolish the surface, removing material until you get below the stain. Marble is a very porous material.  Sorry,,,,,,,


To the OP, please edit your question and add answers to the questions asked by @PhilippNagel and more answers can be given that are more helpful and less guesswork.

If everything you have replaced is still good, was replaced properly, then you've limited yourself to replacing more parts (shot gunning) which it seems you have been doing all along and wasting money. Ideally what you would do is test the parts, read furnace error codes, and troubleshoot the fault.

You may have a dirty/clogged heat exchanger, since you've mentioned it can be tricked into running until it gets up to temp. I literally just had my Heat Exchanger replaced under warranty today (irony), and my unit was installed in 2010. I just called the installers the previous owner used and they were wonderful. Didn't cost me much and my furnace is working again.

I suggest you do the same unless you have the tools and know how to troubleshoot instead of replacing parts repeatedly.


Is there hard-water deposits inside the pipes in my house?

Faucets have screens on them.  Your pipes shouldn't have deposits on them because the sediment will build-up on the bottom of the tank when it is being heated (the change in temperature and stagnation are the main reasons for the sediment falling out of solution -- neither of which happens in pipes,) and it shouldn't go out of the top.  The screens on the faucets are to stop debris that are lighter than water.

That's not to say that it's impossible for pipes to get build-up, but you'd have major water heater problems prior to your pipes getting clogged.  Clean the screens to see if the flow rate / pressure goes up.  If it clears up the problems, no need to mess with the pipes!

(Also, another way to test whether it is merely the screens giving you the problems is to test it using the cold water.  If the cold water is also slow, it's the screen on the faucet, not scale build-up in your pipes.)


Should the neutral for a GFCI be separate from other neutrals?

If it truly is three separate circuits, then none of the "neutrals" should be tied together in the junction box.  Parallel conductors are not allowed (according to National Electrical Code), so they should all be separate.

I don't know what you mean by "jump the phases", so I can't comment on that.


Which electrical box to use for old-work outdoor light fixture and vinyl siding mounting block?

Use a mounting block with a built-in box

The simplest solution to this problem is to use a siding mounting block with a builtin pancake box, such as an Arlington 8141 (the correct part number depends on the lap depth of your siding, the 8141 is what's used with a 1/2" lap) or equivalent.


Is this ground attached to the wrong water pipe?

Grounding, bonding, water pipes, and your situation

The old-school way of grounding a house to the cold water pipe performed two functions, not just one:

It grounded the house electrical system to protect it against induced lightning and static charges
And it bonded the house plumbing to the electrical system to allow fuses to blow or breakers to trip if a wire faulted to the plumbing

Nowadays, Code requires us put in a dedicated electrode (ground rods or an Ufer for most folks) to deal with problem 1, and that's what you can do here -- running 6AWG copper from the main panel (optionally through a conduit) to a pair of ground rods spaced 8' apart and driven 8' into the ground will get you a serviceable grounding electrode in most areas.

You will still need to move the existing grounding/bonding wire from the hot pipe to the cold pipe and add a 6AWG jumper from the cold pipe to the hot pipe, though -- this will ensure that your piping is properly bonded to the electrical system so that you don't wind up with a shocking tub spout because the dishwasher shorted out.


Reusing old service wires from electric furnace to mini-split

Those two 50A single breakers need to be handle-tied, or replaced with a 50A 2-pole breaker.  You can't have two singles on a 240V load like that.
The empty breaker space at bottom left should be filled with a proper UL-listed thing.  They make blank filler plates, but I find them flimsy and expensive.  I just use actual breakers, a CH120 is around $5.

(1) reusing the existing (6 AWG aluminum) wires from the 30-amp circuit to service a new heat pump with a dedicated 25-amp replacement double-pole breaker

Yeah, that plan is fine.  Use "MAC Block connectors" to splice from the #6 aluminum to whatever other wires (Al or Cu) you'd continue with.
Note that since the #6 aluminum run does not have a neutral, they must be 240V-only heat pumps. Cannot use bare as a neutral.
You may find it challenging to land #6 wire on a 25A breaker.

(2) reusing the wires from the two 50-amp circuit to service a 100-amp subpanel to serve future wiring projects

Waii--what???
OK, you see that dual 30A and you immediately get "This is a 30A 240V circuit".
But then you see those two 50A singles and for some reason you think that isn't the same exact thing.  It is the same exact thing, but somebody left off the mandatory handle tie so it looks weird.
So think of it as a 50A 2-pole breaker.
The problem is, the existing #4Al cable has only 3 wires and cannot supply a 120/240V subpanel.

You need the bare wire for safety ground. This isn't 1963, you need a ground wire.
Because it's #4 or larger, you can get neutral by re-marking one of the  black wires white with tape.
That leaves you 1 wire left to use for "hot", and that means the far panel can only be 120V.

The good news is, the SE/XHHW cable is allowed 75C temperature, so it can be provisioned to 65A and use a 70A feed breaker.  There is no such thing as a 70A/1-pole breaker, so you will need to either re-use a 50A, or obtain a 70A/2-pole and use only one pole of it.


Can i install a water pump to an overhead tank having a single piping system?

Is the tank a pressure tank or a non-pressure tank? If it is a pressure tank, you could move the tank from the roof to the supply line just after a newly installed  pump. Add a pressure switch and a Domestic PRV. Location of the parts would be as follows:  1) supply line; 2) domestic water pump; 3) pressure gauge; 4) pressure shut off switch; 5) pressure tank; 6) domestic PRV; 7) domestic water line. The pressure switch would be set at approximately 50/60 PSIG. to cycle the pump and the PRV could be set at 40/50 PSIG.  Note; this is the same set up as a well system. The PRV could be eliminated if you desire. Also the pump should be for domestic use (bronze or stainless steel). If the tank is a non-pressure tank, adding a pump would be difficult. I hope this helps. If the tank is a non-pressurized type, you could , if you had a separate fill line, add a pump, small expansion tank,  and pressure switch to the delivery line, set the pressure switch for the desired line pressure. The pump would maintain a constant pressure on the supply line of say 40 to 60 PSIG or whatever pressure you desire.


You don't need the name. Just go to a site like repairclinic.com and enter the model number of the dishwasher. Then browse through the pictures until you find the part.


Procedure

Turn off power to the lighting circuit
Test that power is off using a non-contact voltage detector (NCV) and/or Cat-II multimeter.
If necessary to prevent cable chafing, fit a cable grommet to the backplate cable opening. (since the backplate may be heated by the lamp, you may need to look for a grommet that can be used in hot conditions)
Strip the insulation from the ends of the live and neutral wires.
To the screw attach an earth wire (bare or green/yellow in UK)
In the hole above the embossed "L" push the live wire (brown in UK).
In the hole above the embossed "N" push the neutral wire (blue in UK).

Notes

The push-fit connections are unusual in UK fittings and are intended for solid-core wires (not stranded)
The holes connected to the metal strip are not for powering the light.
The fitting appears to be designed for use with a separate junction box fitted in the ceiling.
Live wires from a light-switch sometimes have the wrong colour insulation but are marked with red tape (indicating switched-live).
Typical wiring for a ceiling lighting fitting in the UK is as shown below

Note that this image does not show the strain relief that must be present on the hanging cable. Fittings with exposed metal parts will need a protective earth connection. The one you have looks like it particularly needs this!


Matching new oak floor planks to old planks

A picture of the area would have been good to see how the ends tie into the existing but here goes. 30 sq. ft. of floor is a lot to do. You may want to rent a random orbit floor sander to do the bulk of it, then detail the edges where it meets the existing.  When you write that the "planks aren't quite flat meaning they are higher than the rest of the existing floor, you can carefully mask off the existing floor around the new wood with 2" wide blue painters tape and sand the floor down to where the hand sander touches the tape, but not cutting through it. Of course if you do you will damage the finish of the existing floor. Start with 60 or 80 grit first and when the sander first touches the tape, change to the next finer grit. If it was 60 grit, change to 80, if it was 80 change to 100. Then take a regular #2 pencil and mark across the freshly sanded planks so  there are lines all over the place. Sand with that next grit until the pencil marks are gone. This will help you keep track of where and how well you have an area sanded. You may have touched the painters tape again, but as long as it hasn't torn through, that is ok. Mark the wood again with the pencil, and sand again with 120 grit, that is the last cut.

You will need a piece or pieces of the floor to test the stain on to get a good match. then stain the bare wood carefully and wipe it down with a rag to get the excess off the surface. Actually wipe the surface anytime you stain, even if there is no excess, there is always a residue that is naturally left in the process that needs to be removed before sealing. Read the directions on the stain for the time between stain and finish coats. Sand lightly (220G) after the first clear coat, then remove the tape, vacuum and dust thoroughly then apply the second coat of finish. cut it in carefully. Make sure to match the sheen of the existing floor.


How to finish wide gap in drywall at edge of ceiling

You could use a piece of inside corner bead and finish it like any other inside drywall corner:

A less aesthetic solution would be to cover the gap with a piece of wood trim and paint it to match the wall.


Usually they are fasted to your cabinet at two screw tabs along the upper front edge of the dishwasher. Open the door and look along there, as your first step would be to check/remove the mounting screws.

It is likely that the mounting tabs have been bent, causing the unit to sit in a non-level position. It's important that you get it back level or it may not operate properly and could leak. Once you remove the screws you should be able to carefully pull the unit out a bit to straighten the tabs.
There is a chance that you may also be fighting copper water supply tubing that has been distorted/bent/kinked when the unit moved. If this is the case, you will need to shut off and disconnect the water supply, power, and drain lines and pull the entire unit out to inspect and repair as needed.


It's a lint filter, and the problem isn't just with septic systems.  The discharged water is full of fibers.  Much of it takes forever to break down if it does so at all.  But even before it reaches your septic system, the fibers can build up in the pipes and clog them.  I learned of the problem by needing our drain pipes professionally cleared because of the washing machine dischage.

I stopped using the in-wall drain.  Even if you use a filter, you have to remember to regularly clean it or water will back up, and the mesh filters still let much of it through.  If you have a nearby utility sink, discharge into that, instead.  Fasten an old stocking around the end of the discharge pipe.  It will capture virtually all of the lint.  The stocking will balloon when the water discharges, providing plenty of surface area for the discharge, even when it has a lot of captured lint.  When the stocking gets too full of lint, toss it and stick another one on the hose.

BTW, the in-wall outlet has a trap that will eventually dry out if you aren't regularly discharging water into it.  If you don't use it, pour a quart of water into it to ensure the trap is full, and then seal it to stop evaporation and keep out funky-smelling sewer gases.  You might find a rubber stopper that size.  I used some rope caulk and a small plastic lid a little larger than the opening.


Green striped wire placement when changing from 3 prong to 4 on dryer

Yes, that is the most important thing you need to do!
Neutral is a power wire that handles return/balance current.  It's a "hot" wire, but is near ground voltage under normal circumstances.  However it can be "hot, which is why it is insulated.
On a proper and modern 4-wire dryer connection, we want neutral connected to to the electrically active parts of the machine, and the chassis attached to safety ground.
On a 3-wire dryer connection, they made the decision to bond the machine chassis to neutral.  It was known to be unsafe, but was considered less unsafe than doing nothing at all, on the rationale that the wiring is rarely disturbed and the neutral is unlikely to fail (electrifying the chassis of the machine if it did).
So yes. As part of a conversion to 4-wire, you really want to remove that bonding jumper.
It should go somewhere secure where it won't flop around and hit a hot wire.
You can only put 1 bare wire on a screw, but if all wire ends have ring terminals crimped on, you can stack those.


Install fire/smoke alarm directly to stud or in electrical box?

A proper electrical box is the only way to do this. You CANNOT simply cut a hole and pass the wires through. Any and all line voltage (120/240V and up) splices must be in an approved box and be accessible, meaning you cannot bury a junction or splice box.
I could cite all sorts of relevant codes but I don't think that's necessary. This should be obvious.

Here is a recent thread on this very subject: What type of electrical box do I use for a hard-wired smoke detector?

Remember, it is almost a certainty (code wise in the US) that an AFCI breaker is required.


What power tool is the best and fastest to take up floor tile?

A rotary hammer with sds plus attachments will likely serve you best.  These tools usually have three functions:  hammer (with a chisel bit for your purpose), rotating hammer (for drilling through concrete), and drill.  The tool plus the chisel attachment will run you about $300.  I've found mine very useful for the odd jobs of removing tiles and drilling for anchors.  They can be found widely at home improvement stores and online.


This is an educated guess only because I can't really see or feel what you are describing.  This may be old floor wax that has had something damp left sitting on it. Often in older homes folks would use old fashion floor waxes that will discolor or turn white with age, water, friction or heat.  You may first try using a little mineral spirits or a mild cleaning agent with a polishing compound, such as Bar Keepers Friend with a soft cloth on a small spot to see if it will remove the white residue. If in fact this floor has been treated with a wax product, the entire floor would have to be stripped of wax, perhaps buff sanded and restained, then protected with a few coats of Urethane. Don't attempt to apply urethane until you have determined what is causing the white waxy residue. Putting any coating such as urethane over a waxed floor will bubble, peel, and create a mess to clean up. another test you could do would be to gently scrape a very small section of the white stain with a putty knife. If the material comes off easily it may be wax.  it may be old varnish, but that would not feel waxy, but not out of the question.  Let us know what you find, and we can go from there.  Good Luck


Toilet makes screeching/chirping sound when anyone in my building used water

I would just replace that valve (and probably the flapper too). They are cheap enough and from your description it can't be working right. Make sure it is installed and adjusted per specification, and you should be all set.

Firstly, you don't want it held down, holding it down is what is true when the tank is not full and therefore, it will open the fill valve to fill the tank. This means water running. You don't want water running 24/7 in your toilet, this is bad.

Now, when it is all the way up, it should not be running at all, but since (when water is being used in your building), the change in water pressure APPARENTLY is enough to starve that valve, just enough it squeals. At least this makes the most sense for what you've described.

Now, the reason why I noted to replace the valve seat is because the water may be trickling out just enough that the fill is barely on. This coupled with water pressure change......

Also... I'd be curious what size pipes are the water supply side to the things in the building. There really shouldn't be a big pressure change when one other thing is in use and your toilet (supplied by 3/8) shouldn't see a drop. But it does. (based on your description).


Need Tips for Mounting screw-in Slider electrical Boxes

Use a small angle head drill and drill pilot holes - as you say the screw follows the existing hole.


Central heating [uk] thermostatic valves

It sounds like the system is out of balance.

Every radiator usually has two valves, one at each end. One valve (the lockshield valve) is used to balance the system at installation time and is not adjustable without tools, the other is used to vary the output and can be turned by hand.

See radiator valves explained

You should be able to reduce the rate at which the room warms up by adjusting the lockshield valve slightly.

I'd try a quarter turn clockwise each morning until the system seems to be behaving as you want.


What is this low voltage power supply leading into the wall?

It looks like the power supply for an old alarm system.


The "mysteriously gigantic" nailers are probably 15 gauge trim nailers similar to this one:

Sounds like the one that you have is a finish nailer, and is likely a smaller gauge and uses nails with smaller heads. Thus less driving power required and a smaller gun. A trim nailer will generally give you better holding power, but also higher possibility of splitting wood, especially thinner stock.
Assuming the nailer you have is working for what you're using it for and can use long enough nails, I don't see any reason to stop using it - I've trimmed with a finish nailer before without issues.
As far as your metal tip goes, I would doubt you'll be able to find one from the manufacturer for a cheap Harbor Freight gun.  One thing I've done in the past when I've lost mine or broken it is to lightly dip the tip in Plasti-Dip (the rubberized tool handle coating stuff). Just make sure that it doesn't interfere with the action of the gun at all 1/16 - 1/8 inch is plenty.


How can I fix a cabinet to plasterboard with brick wall behind?

I'd recommend these lag shields

 but the info in this link can help you decide. You could probably go with simple lead sleeves but without knowing the condition of your brick or the exact weight of the load you'll be supporting lag shields are a safer bet. As far as going through the plasterboard goes, it's not any different than attaching something to studs through drywall, you just need to make sure you're drywall is compressed between the cabinet back and the supporting wall. If there is a void between the two it will collapse when you tighten down your anchors or worse, when you put weight in your cabinet.


Difference between various Radiant Barrier types

Radiant barriers are great in theory, but in practice they usually fall short.  The primary reasons are:
1.  Once they get dusty, they don't work.
2.  People press them right up to the surface they are trying to insulate (and air cavity between the radiant barrier and the next closest surface is necessary - at least 3/4").

Adding a radiant barrier to an existing form of insulation can't hurt, but as a stand alone product I usually find their effectiveness lessens substantially over time.  So to answer your question:  Unless you have a specific need where radiant barriers can perform, I wouldn't spend a lot of effort or cost seeking one out.


What are my insulation options around a shower?

I'd use unfaced fiberglass, at least if each wall cavity has a place above the shower where the wall can breathe.  Fiberglass is very permeable to air, which is why it only works well in still air.


Mysterious sound coming from basement, related to water pipes

It's probably just the pipes expanding and contracting under temperature changes. They can bind on an anchorage, then suddenly break loose. The floor and pipes do reverberate, amplifying the sound. The tension release and sudden movement can be very small, yet the resulting sound rather startling.

If you can identify where the pipe is hanging up, you can replace the anchor with one that has a plastic liner that is resistant to binding. Or simply loosen the anchor or remove it, wrap the pipe with cloth tape, then reinstall the anchor.

It can be difficult to locate all the pops and creaks, they seem to come from nowhere sometimes. You should at least be able to quiet the worst offenders.


How can I determine what's behind a wall?

Sure there are other ways, you could spend tens of thousands of dollars to have it x-rayed (they do this in commercial buildings), but realistically, drilling a small hole and using an inspection camera is the simplest and cheapest route.

You might also try contacting your cities building department to see if they have any plans on-file - this might show you what is there.


Which foam to use for temporary leak remediation?

Application of foam from the interior will not stop water from penetrating the compromised flashing seal. The water that does penetrate may very likely end up someplace you would rather not have it. That being said, it will probably be better than doing nothing, judging by your description of the leak and considering the weather that is headed your way. The retro-fit seal linked in the comment from @Jack should help once you can obtain roof access, and you do not need to remove the foam to utilize it.


The minimum would be diagonal bracing on back and side.

+---+
|  /|
| / |
|/  |
+---+

Triangles resist lateral forces much better than rectangles do.


Can a toilet get "too old" to the point where it can never be unclogged and must be replaced?

WHAT?!!! I guess I was just "lucky" with all the 100, 80, 70, 60 & 50 year old toilets I've ever used. That wasn't any plumber, that was a hack liar fraud swindler!

The trap is the water you see in the bottom of the toilet! "I'm sorry sir, your toilet is full of CLEAN, it's a total disaster, the only thing I can do is replace it...do you mind paying $500 for a $100 toilet."

Sorry um, NO. A Real Plumber would know to pull the toilet out & to scrape out the pipe opening to full diameter, vacuum out the bend, clean off the wax seal, ream out the entire toilet's drain line using a snake like a flexible file (not that there would be any encrusted build-up anyway) & pop in a new wax or no-wax seal to get you back to better than new.

And, for $50 more (parts upcharge cost) would re-do the wall valve, supply line & replace everything in & under the tank. Total time, 1-hour & worth every penny.


Yes there are stainless fixtures but for the cost I would probably just purchase currently available led floods or wall packs. The fixtures I use are aluminum but are universal voltage rated 100-277vac.

These low wattage high lumen output fixtures are so much less than a stainless fixture you could replace them 1/2 a dozen times and wire them directly into your existing power.

Look at what is available at myledplace.com or 1000bulbs.com both have a good selection of DLC + UL approval  of LED fixtures I have used both and have had good customer service even on the few failures I have had. dlc is design light consortium and requires a 5 year warranty and you want UL for use in the USA.

The reason I suggest a less expensive aluminum fixture is because the electronics usually don’t last as long as a stainless fixture and the non stainless parts inside usually fall apart requiring repair so all the big $ is kind of wasted where a good aluminum fixture will be much cheaper easier to wire so give them a look.


You need to pre-drill a large but shallow hole of the correct depth, and use the bit size recommended by the manufacturer for the material you are setting those into. Too small and you'll crack the wood/whatever.  Too big and they won't hold.   It matters.

You might want to try on some scrap first.

Did the supplier provide these nuts full knowing that you're going into formica?   Or is this a generic kit?


Is this a normal fault mode for an arc fault or what is happening in my wiring to cause my AFCI to trip

For everyone's info, and because it could help someone else, here is the actual answer in my case.

While I had connected the white wire coming out of the AFCI to the ground bar, I hadn't connected the neutral from the circuit to the AFCI.   In my case it was because I didn't realize the extra screw terminal was actually there and the documentation wasn't helpful.

Bottom line:   If you install a combination AFCI and connect the hot but not the neutral, it will not pop until there is a load.   After the fact, that actually makes sense.   This is like a ground fault from the AFCI's point of view because it can't see the current going back through its neutral port.


Neutral Wire is used to carry power to light switch - is this legal?

This is fine in an existing setup...

This is the old way a switch loop was done, using the white wire to carry power to the switch and the black wire to carry the switched-hot back to the light.  For a dumb light switch, not having neutral at the switch is a nothingburger, so all's well that ends well.  There should be electrical tape wrapped around the white wire at each end to reidentify it as a hot, though -- if that's not the case, turn the circuit off at the breaker and add a wrap of black electrical tape around that white wire on each end.

However, new work works differently

In new work, though, this is not to Code.  The 2011 NEC added provisions for neutral (what Code calls the grounded conductor vs ground, which Code calls the equipment grounding conductor) at switch locations in 404.2(C) due to the proliferation of advanced "smart" switches, dimmers, timers, and suchnot that need constant power.  The alternatives involve returning that constant current through the load (which is incompatible with LED light bulbs and some other loads) or returning it on the equipment grounding system (which is a dirty hack).

  (C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded
  circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be
  provided at the location where switches control lighting
  loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose
  branch circuit for other than the following:

  (1) Where conductors enter the box enclosing the switch
  through a raceway, provided that the raceway is large
  enough for all contained conductors, including a
  grounded conductor

  (2) Where the box enclosing the switch is accessible for
  the installation of an additional or replacement cable
  without removing finish materials

  (3) Where snap switches with integral enclosures comply
  with 300.15(E)

  (4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or
  bathroom

  (5) Where multiple switch locations control the same lighting load such that the entire floor area of the room or space is visible from the single or combined switch
  locations

  (6) Where lighting in the area is controlled by automatic
  means

  (7) Where a switch controls a receptacle load

  Informational Note: The provision for a (future) grounded
  conductor is to complete a circuit path for electronic lighting control devices.


Replacing old Electric Radiator Thermostat (220v) with a 4-wire Honeywell CT410B (Non-Programable)

This is a common configuration, the thermostat shows terminal 2 as the line.
With 240v split phase heating it is very common to only open one of the hot conductors this makes for a cheaper thermostat.
(This leaves 120v to ground live even when the thermostat is in the off position.
I would see where the line connected to terminal 2 goes where it joins up with the white that should be the other hot.
The white should be reidentified with any color other than white, gray or green. Most commonly black is used if done at all. I use a black sharpie / Permanent marker often.


My experience with dehumidifiers is that most usually last 2-3 years. I had 1 that lasted 7-8 years but that was a rare experience. I buy them at a store that has a cheap 3 year warranty. So far I have used the warranty 3 times on different units. It is a cheap way to extend the life of the unit. This works for me since the cost of repair is usually close to or exceeds the cost of the unit. As for normal cycles, mine is set for 40% and it runs until that humidity level is reached. There is never any ice build-up or should there be. Ice build-up occurs when the refrigerant charge is low, the filter is dirty,  or it is running in an area where the ambient temperature is below it's recommended temperature.


What can I burn in fireplace to minimize smoke

How about a sealed wood-burning insert? All the smoke will go right up the flue.


How much drywall should I cut to re-route some wires?

Unless you have scrap laying around, you'll be buying a 4x8 sheet of drywall anyway (unless you can find damaged panels or the hardware store sells half sheets).  So anything less than 4x8 will be about the same amount of work to patch, so cut out as much as you need. Just remember to try and end in the middle of a stud.

If it's 8ft. from floor to ceiling, cutting out all the way to the next stud would mean you'd only have to tape one seam. This would likely be easier than patching a bunch of holes.


The NEC only allows a single feeder to a building (NEC 225.30). If you want seven 20A circuits you would need to run a single set of 4 larger wires to an electrical panel, drive a ground rod (or rods depending on local interpretation) and break out your circuits from there.  A good plan would be 3/#6 + 1/#8 ground being fed by a 60A breaker in 3/4" PVC.

If the single feeder consists of one "Multiwire Branch Circuit", being two 20A circuits being fed by 12/3+g UF (or 4 #12 THWN wires in a conduit) being fed by a two pole 20A breaker then you would still need a disconnecting switch where the feeder enters the building, but a single Multiwire Branch Circuit allows not driving a ground rod. NEC 250.32


How do I get the most torque out of a spanner?

The first thing I would think about is not how I get more torque out of a spanner, but why I need to. Your average spanner (wrench) produces a lot of torque, and adding more in some cases is likely to break whatever it is you are trying to fix, rounding off the nut, or breaking the tool (as you experienced). It's far better to figure out why something is stuck and trying to remedy that by using some penetrating fluid like wd40 or the like, or maybe some gentle tapping with a mallet in a strategic place.

To answer your original question a piece of pipe is my standard solution for those extra torque situations just as you used, but it helps to have good quality steel tools and not cast chromium alloys as the last tend to shatter.


You have one main stack typically.  All of the plumbing drains into it and goes down.  The venting for the plumbing should be above the highest drain-to-main-stack connection.  The venting goes up - on a typical home it would vent out the roof.  If you had the vents below then you may get water/sewage in them and your house would stink and possibly drains would not function as well.  If you are more specific I can touch on how to do this right.


If you're sure it's the shaft that's loose, and not a misalignment in the blade attachment, then it's most likely one of the bearings supporting the shaft that's bad. Check for play in the bearing flange (Component 36). If that's solid, then check the bearing sleeve (component 13). Unfortunately if it's the armature that's damaged (component 3), then you're better off buying a new saw.


How can I relocate hookups for washer and electric dryer?

I would exploit it by getting a dryer, or front load washer, which has controls on its front rather than back. Then push the entire unit into the convenient recess. Turn the other unit 90 degrees with its back to the  water heater, and easier transfers too.

Alternatively, they make washer+dryer combo units in the same form factor as a front load washer alone. Really.  Toss in clothes and soap, push buttons, come back 2 hours later and the clothes are clean and dry. Would free up a lot of space in that room.


Proper way to wire a sub panel to an attached garage?

When wires get this large, using copper is just throwing money away.  2AWG aluminum is a very appropriate choice for this application.  Whatever ooga-booga you may have heard about aluminum, never applied to the large conductors like this, and doesn't apply to the new AA-8000 alloys.

How about EMT steel conduit?  Use that, and you don't need to pull a ground wire.  The EMT is the ground.  (Not only that, it's ground for any other circuit that needs to be grounded back to that panel, in case you are retrofitting grounds in an older home).

If possible, I would use 2" conduit.  I know the tables say 1.5" is adequate, but this assumes you have an electrician's truck chock full of pulling tools and I'm guessing you don't.  The more oversize you go, the easier the pull, and the less likely you'll need to hire the guy with the truck.  And guess what, he won't work with you unless you hire him for the whole job.  I managed to hire one just for the pull, but he was a friend of my family, and even he needed to delay the job a day so he could buy another tool he didn't have.  Anything you can do to ease the pull is a good idea.

Watch the bends.  Every bend makes the pull much harder.  When I lay conduit, I allow myself only one 90 degree bend between accessible points (Code allows 4, but you'd need a power winch and a bunch of lube to pull 3x#2AL around 4 of them! Yikes!)  Whenever you use a junction box or conduit body at a 90 degree bend, that replaces the bend with an accessible point!  Quite a bargain!  It also makes the turn sharper and neater.   If it were me, on a big one like this, I'd put an access point at every single 90... which would make the pull easy, and could make it workable with smaller pipe.  I still wouldn't go smaller than 1-1/2".

Food for thought (i.e. where to use a junction box instead of a conduit body), you can have up to 4 circuits in a single conduit.  (literally, 9 conductors, but grounds don't count, and neither do neutrals on split-phase 120/240 circuits and MWBCs, so you've only used 2 of 9.)


Can I connect a dishwasher and an outdoor outlet on the same circuit?

The 2014 NEC now requires the dishwasher to be on GFCI.

The 2014 NEC does not require the dishwasher to be on an individual circuit (it never has). So, you could feed either receptacle on the load side of the other with a GFCI. Or you could put the whole circuit on a GFCI breaker.

If your locality is still on the 2011 NEC the GFCI requirement was not in there for the dishwasher then but it was for the outside receptacle. So, as Isherwood points out, you could feed the outside from the DW receptacle as long as it is a GFCI receptacle.

Additionally, all residential receptacles have to be tamper resistant. Outdoor receptacles have to be TR and weather resistant with an in-use cover that is rated "extra duty".

Gets complicated eh?

Good luck!


Underground feeder short by 5ft, Main panel to subpanel

You can make a splice in an appropriately sized junction box indoors.  Given the large size of the wire, there will be certain minimum box size specs. The box will be long and thin if you do nose-tail connections of the wires.  The electrical supply house should be able to help you with box size.

The type of splice used is called a Polaris. Take care to torque it to spec. Select Polaris connectors just large enough for your wires, so the insulation fits the connector tightly.


The transformer-button red wire  is supply hot or "R" in thermostat speak.
The white wire is "front button switched-hot".
The chime-transformer red wire is return/common/neutral or "C" in thermostat speak.

You need to bring supply hot, and "rear button switched-hot" to the other doorbell.

...  presuming the doorbell has 2 different chimes.


What do I need to do to fix stripped door hinge screw holes?

It is difficult to fully access the problems with the wood behind your door hinge without a picture to see the extent of the damage. None the less let me describe a reasonable repair technique that works well. I would skip the schemes of jamming additional wood sticks or slivers into the existing screw holes because these methods are stop gap measures at best and will not work when the damage is more significant.

One good way to deal with a problem like this is to remove the hinge from the door jamb and then bore out the problem holes with a larger diameter drill so that the sides of the hole are in clean solid wood. You may need to use a drill with a size of 7/16 or 1/2 inch diameter. The best type of drill bit for boring out the hole is one for the following types as they drill the best accurate hole size. These are called auger and brad point drills respectively.

Next you need some round hardwood dowel material that is sized to fit the holes you drilled out in the previous step. Common dowels are made of birch wood and come in 36 inch lengths.

Check the thickness of the door jamb and the space behind the jamb to the stud. Cut lengths of the dowel that are just a bit shorter than this measured length.

Apply yellow carpenter glue to the sides of the dowel and inside the drilled holes in the jamb. Then tap the dowel pegs into the holes so that they are nice and flush with the face of the jamb in the hinge cutout.

Give the glue a good amount of time to dry. Over night would be best. Next fit the hinge back into its position and mark the positions of the hinge holes. Remove the hinge and drill the proper sized pilot holes for the hinge screws. It may be best to use new screws for the hinge if the old ones are chewed up in the slots or the screw threads are not nice and sharp. If the dowel holes were drilled on center to the old screw holes the pilot holes should be going right into the dowel material. It is important to stress that the proper sized pilot holes are essential so that the screws will thread into the pilot holes properly without twisting off the screws.

With careful work and proper selection of the dowel size the finished hinge installation should completely cover up the rework area.

Some door jambs may be made of a material that does not suitably lend itself to gluing in a dowel pin. This would be the case for certain types of particle board and press board types of jambs. This would also be the case for jambs that are made of solid wood but may be splitting so that they cannot hold the dowel glue joint securely. An alternate fix using dowel pins may still be possible for these cases by using a modification of the technique that embeds the dowel into the stud behind the jamb. As long as the studs are made of wood and the existing hinge holes more than about 3/4 inch from the edge of the jamb this technique may work for you.

As seen in the above diagram the dowel pin hole is bored all the way into the wooden framing stud. The dowel diameter should be increased to 5/8" in diameter and careful placement of the hole drilling location done so that the drilled hole is contained entirely within the stud itself and not shaving into the back of the wall board. (Note that you can evaluate the wall board thickness by looking under the cover plate of a nearby electrical outlet or light switch). It may be necessary to offset the drill hole some from the center of the hinge screw hole. This would be OK as long as the later drilled pilot hole still engages into the dowel itself.

Cut the dowel pin slightly shorter than the drilled hole depth. Taper one end of the dowel slightly using sand paper so that it will enter the hole in the stud easily. As before smear glue down into the stud hole, the jamb hole and on the sides of the dowel pin. Pound the dowel into the stud till the end is flush with the face of the hinge cutout. Let fully dry and proceed to remount the hinge by drilling the pilot holes and installing the screws.

This technique takes care of the problem with the empty space behind the jamb. If you use the long screws approach you will find it problematic to tighten the screws securely due to this empty space. Over tightening the long screws will distort the already damaged door jamb and cause additional problems. (There is a technique, as has already been suggested, to fill this empty space using tapered wooden shims that can be purchased at home store but their use requires removal of the door casing so they can be installed). The embedded dowels can hold the hinge securely in place without the distortion of the door jamb.


20 amp circuit and GFCI outlets everywhere

It's wasteful.

I realize that most folks think with their wallets and not much further, but #12 wire contains 59% more copper than #14 (source). That's (nominally) 59% more energy wasted and pollution created in mining, 59% more chemical pollution from refinement, and 59% more weight to lug around as you work.

It's also much less pleasant to work with in a box, and fills boxes and nuts much quicker in terms of legal capacities.


That does not look like you have got down to the shank yet.

Gently keep drilling and the head should come off.

Then if you remove the trim and other parts you should be able to get pliers or grips onto the bit left sticking out and remove it.


I worked in the paint department at Home Depot ( I know Valspar is a Lowe's product... ) and I've never seen any chart or color deck or anything that showed colors and the bases needed for that color.  The computer tells you the base when you look up the formula, but that's the only place its seen.  You can go to a paint store and ask them to look up several brown shades to see what base they require.  Based on a few look-ups, you should be able to find the rough transition from light base to medium base.

The light bases can't be tinted very much, so a tan color is the best you're going to get.  Some people will assume that it's because of how much colorant you can fit in the can, but the truth is that the light base already has a lot of white color in it already.  Because there is so much white to begin with, a white-based color is all you can make.  The medium and dark tint bases don't have as much white to start with so you are free to create any color.


ELECTRICIAN BORED 4" HOLE through top & bottom chords in attic -- how to fix?

For those that say, “It’s no big deal,” THEY DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE PURPOSE of the double top plate...especially at the perimeter of the house.

If this occurs at the perimeter of your house, you have a problem, especially if you live in 1) high wind area, or 2) seismically active area.

Everyone has mentioned why it’s not a problem because it’s not a “truss”. True, but that is for VERTICAL loads. A double top plate is used for many purposes. In your case, the double top plate is used to “tie” the perimeter of all the walls together at the top of the wall for LATERAL loads.

When a wind load or seismic load is placed on your house, the house wants to “bend” to withstand the force. By cutting through  the double top plate, they have eliminated the chord that resists this bending...we call this “the extreme fiber in bending” in a normal beam supporting a vertical load. That is why it’s important to lap the double top plates a minimum of 4’ and nail the crap out of the lap.

If your House is 1) one story, or 2)is not located in a high wind area, or 3) small and square and not rectangular, you have less to worry about. Otherwise, I’d have the clown return and fix it. Fixing it can be determined, calculated and detailed by a structural engineer (not a civil engineer) or by an architect with a structural background.

Btw, get a Building Permit.


How can I lift glued carpet without destroying it?

The answer to this was Acetone.

Turns out the carpet was glued to the gripper rods in the corners and every 30 cm or so along the rod there was another spot of glue. No glue to the floorboards.

Pouring acetone along the edge enabled me to lift the carpet fairly easily. It did cause some slight damage to the glue keeping the backing to the carpet and where the problem glue didn't quite dissolve well enough I got a few pulls but thankfully not too many.


Can I modify a roof truss by removing purlins and kickers?

No, you shouldn't make structural modifications like this without them being approved by a properly licensed and certified structural engineer.  Although you didn't say where this is, most likely it is against the law to do so anyway.  In most jurisdictions, it will require something like a "building permit" to make modifications like this.  This will trigger inspections, which will likely require drawings signed off by the right kind of engineer.


Which copper adapter should I use for tub spout and what is the difference?

The cup fitting slides onto the end of a pipe. The FTG fitting is the same size as pipe and fits directly into some other fitting: an elbow, a coupling, a tee, etc. It probably costs more only because they're infrequently used. The cup fitting is the right one for your application.


Are there long pipes that either increase speed of water or at least do not decrease it?

Water speed has nothing to do with it.  All pipes have a very, very large surface to interact with the water therein (hydrodynamic term: "wetted area"), and will quickly brake any water velocity.

No, water moves because of pressure.  For passive movement, that means height/gravity.  The trade language for height is "head".  The pressure is 1 atmosphere per 10m of height (about 1 psi per 2 feet).   Water does not flow uphill.  If you have a hill to climb, you either need forced pumping..... or for very small climbs, highly competent use of syphons.

Obviously you cannot syphon more than 10m of head, since the pipe would be 100% vacuum inside.  You do need a pump capable of removing air at the top of the syphon. (The mouth will do for less than 800mm, fit a check valve so you don't get spit in the pipe).

Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley had the finest water engineering in the history of the world, until the British gained the crown. And they weren't the only ones. So mastery of hydraulics might be your birthright!


Main breaker does NOT turn power to house off

From the small amount of information, I can give you some answers that may be more like starting points.

Quick Answer?  Hire an Electrician.

Long Answer:  If you took out the breaker to replace it, the power should have gone out/off.  If that didn't happen, there are three scenarios I can think of:

1 - Your breakers have been bypassed to send power directly to the house.  Really unsafe as no one can turn out the power to the house.

If the panel was bypassed, you're going to need someone with the proper training and experience to handle it.

If there are other breakers, that may be the reason why the breakers didn't work.

2 - There is, at least, one more panel box.

I have seen older houses with one "breaker" panel inside a closet inside the house.  The interesting part was those were the main circuit breaker.

If the power is from an overhead line, look at it and see where it's coming into the house.  It's harder for underground.

Where it comes into the house, that is normally where the breaker panel is.

If there are other breakers, that may be the reason why the breakers didn't work.

3- There is another panel/circuit box and the breakers you have have been rerouted around this one to the other one.

If this is the case, the outside breaker can be reinstalled, but your going to need to contact your power company and have the power for the entire house switched off while repairs are made.  This will probably be a contractor/electrician's job and may require permits and inspections by the municipality where it's located AND the power company.

Please use caution.  The breaker boxes, at least in California, have a lot of juice and one misstep could cost you your life.  Not knowing how the system is set up could also make wires and circuits have a charge when you don't expect it.

Use a detector to determine if circuits are charged and NEVER assume or guess about these things.

Absent a photo or video, it's difficult to make an exact diagnosis.  Your location will also dictate what the normal practices and codes are for your area.

When in doubt, call a professional to look at it.  Most in the US will give you a free estimate of any repair work they propose.  Main lines are NOT for the average handyman and even many electricians don't want to get into them.

I am a serial DIYer and rennovator and have put in a LOT of circuits, outlets, exterior and interior lines in my houses over the last 30 years.  My Father-in-Law was a contractor and he taught me a lot about household electrical.


run electrical conduit underneath hardwood floor?

Cut a few openings in your current subfloor, spanning across from the centers of joists, and pull flex conduit (or just cable if that's all that's needed). You'll easily be able to drill through the joists with a compact drill. When you're done just glue and screw the cutouts back in place, then add your second layer. Don't fiddle around with hokey sandwich solutions.