Should my AC condenser and evaporator be the same size?

You have done a fair amount of research as you can see this an art and depending on what you want lower operating cost or dryer air the answer can be different.

To me I like much dryer air for 2 reasons the first is how much cooler and comfortable it feels, the second reason cool high humid conditions are a great mold factory in the ducts I found this out later on industrial systems.

The control of your system also has some affect where the sizes are exact and a very high efficiency throttle valve system setup it may not get as cold and not remove as much moisture unless set on a less efficient setting, again it is a power savings vs comfort to get in the mid to upper 20 seer the coil is not as cold so not as much moisture is removed, but down around 18 seer the coil gets really cold and removes a bunch of moisture. So even with a exact match there can be trade offs.

My split I think 23 or 24 seer has a dehumidifier setting that we cycle on 2-4 times a day depending on how humid it is.

Sorry to add another variable into your research but almost every system I have installed is slightly different so there is not a one size fits all unless you have a system that can vary it’s pumping rate then an equal match is best so you have efficiency for most of the day and dehumidifier for a couple of hours.


Stain soaks in and dries to the touch in a fairly short time, though stain isn't a single thing. It's a broad class of products. Perhaps you're actually asking about sealers. There again, there are substantial differences in products, and your local climate play a role.

In any case, that would depend on the expected storage duration. I wouldn't expect the boards to stick together in a day or two in cool, dry conditions. That said, the safe bet is to use something to keep them separated--raw wood strips, plastic pipe, etc.


How can I temporarily disable a garden hose tap without an interior valve?

You can get a hose cap and screw it on nice and tight.

You could also remove the handle if it has one screw in the middle.

You can also do a web search for "locking hose bib" and find a plethora of options.


There will be a lot in common with framing a window.  Here are a few things to consider:

Make sure the floor can support the weight of a tank full of this much water.
If you're on concrete, or think there's even a remote chance of moisture from the tank getting to the wall, I'd use pressure treated wood.
Consider how you will access the tank once it's inside the wall.  I think a false wall building out the side of a room with a closet door to access the tank from behind would be easier to maintain.


Do open-back low voltage boxes have advantages over standard outlet boxes?

"No Volume Limit" Advantage of Open-back Boxes
The open-backed boxes have the advantage that they don't limit the termination area's volume to the size of the box.  Here are a few scenarios where having more volume than what a box provides is important:

In the case where the structured cable will be run directly to a device in the room (think speakers), the distance of cable needed in the room is spooled in the wall at rough-in and stays there until it is needed (you can cover it with a blank plate to make it tidy until you really need it).  Because the slack doesn't protrude from the wall, it does not interfere with or get damaged by installation of sheet rock or other wall material.
Where you have a high-density of terminations at the wall plate (think 6x keystone jacks in a single-gang box) the minimum bend radius requirement of cat5/5e/6 cannot be honored in a closed-back box.  The slack required to make the terminations needs to go behind the wall plate which will result in a very tight coil of cable in the box at best, or will outright not fit at worst.  Open-backed boxes solve this problem because the wall cavity can be used to house the slack.
Using an in-wall active termination device like this might require more volume than a closed-back box.  The box would need to accomodate the bulk of the electronics plus the slack required for termination without violating the bend radius requirements of the signal cable.

Note that on exterior walls vapor barrier and insulation will limit the volume available to you, but likely far less so than a closed-back box.
Vapour Barrier
Where I live (Canada) it is customary and code-acceptable to use "vapor barrier boxes" (pre-formed poly cups shown here) behind all electrical boxes on exterior walls whether open- or closed-back.  A regular closed-back box does not provide its own vapor barrier any more than an open-backed box.
This method comes from the building code decree that "thou shalt not compromise vapor barrier with wiring."  The vapor barrier boxes are taped to the wall's vapor barrier, and wires are puttied to the vapor barrier boxes where they penetrate.
Insulation
I have seen no issues with the combination of open-backed boxes and fiberglass or mineral-wool insulation.  Assuming a proper vapor barrier is installed around the boxes, there should also be no issue with spray-type insulation.


The outlets power goes to ground when you plug something into it

First, those outlet testers are a mess in a dress.  Not the tester, that's simple enough, it's just 3 lights across the 3 pins.  But the legend, and all the silly things it says, is about as helpful as a magic 8-ball.

The light labeled "open ground" measures across the power blades.  The other yellow light measures between hot and ground.  The red is between neutral and ground.

You said you plugged in something, but didn't say what the load was. A little bit of voltage between neutral and ground is actually OK.  Neutral is not ground.  If such a low voltage sets off your tester, it's too sensitive.  Otherwise I'd look for a wiring problem in the neutral.

Are you using screw terminals, backstabs, or poke-and-tighten-screw?  Are you doing it monkey tight, not gorilla tight?

Just so you know, people, especially inexperienced people, find backstabs are not reliable.  In many circuits they are not even legal.  I avoid them entirely.

Sometimes, the screw terminals on the side of a receptacle will strike against the side of the outlet box, or hit the bare ground wire.  Often this will only happen when the weight or strain of a cord is bending the outlet. A cure for that is to wrap several loops of electrical tape around the perimeter of the outlet, i.e. Over the screws.


Why tape black garbage bags to outside windows, not between inside windows and blinds?

Because black surfaces absorb sunlight and convert it to heat. You don't want to accumulate that heat inside the house, usually. Of course, this assumes that you don't install and remove the covering daily.
You could also use aluminum foil and avoid most of that issue. However, check where the light shining on your window will reflect to before using aluminum foil (you might annoy your neighbors or fry your plants).
Caveat (thanks, Max, and others who confirmed):  With double or triple glazed windows, it can be destructive to mount bags or reflective foil from the inside. It can cause uneven expansion of one glass panel which can result in fractures or breakage of the window.


If you have access, I would put in a new frost free (the valve seat is at the end of a rod.

This particular one allows you to thread it on, or solder it on.  Lowes.

If you don't have a frost problem, this is still probably the easiest way to get the connection where you can work on it.

Note:  Whenever I have to repair something, I also put in a shut off valve, figuring that if I have to repair it once, I will likely have to again.


What can I use to build temporary walls in an unfinished basement?

Why not build a drywall curtain. Base plate pinned to concrete floor with a few Tapcon type screws. Studs wedged between base plate and joists. If wider than 4 feet, add a vertical stud. Cover in drywall. NOTE THIS IS NOT CODE AND MUST BE TEMPORARY ONLY!

Create a two or three sided room (but be sure to leave access, like a hinged plywood panel with a padlock, for emergency access to utilities).

If you plan on using this for more than one or two events, consider building real drywall structures (you know, 16 inch centers, etc.). If you skip the taping and mudding, these go up in hours, not days, and will work until you are ready for the real finish project. You do need to be sure to leave adequate ventilation around utilities and easy access. A prehung door also can go up pretty fast.


How can I make a metal privacy screen more private?

Your first approach of random color spots would work, but as you suggest, it might not look pleasing to your eyes. The other suggestion you have about painting a nicer yard on it is "spot on."

Anything you do to the mesh to break up the pattern currently in place will serve to hide that which shows through the mesh. Abstracts and landscapes and other images that have multiple shapes will work better than geometric patterns.

The military did some studies regarding camouflage painting and found that very little variety worked quite well, as long as it was irregular or scattered.

You could duplicate the block-work adjacent to the gate, but it has such a uniform appearance that it likely would fail to hide that which can be seen through the mesh.

The real answer is something for viewing that meets your opinion of attactive, while maintaining a broken or segmented image.


Illegal power connection, how should I handle this situation?

Clearly you are concerned but it is not your job to fix everyone.

So even if they have a house fire tonight it is not your fault.

The best thing to do is to get someone with authority to take a look.

Here in the US we feel safe enough to call police.  They are always concerned about safety.

But here in the US nobody would ever do that, at least not in the cities.

So wherever you are I'd bet you can figure out the best place to call.

I would suggest the power company.   Or the fire department.

All you would have to do is ID yourself as a concerned neighbor and repeat over the phone what you have written here.


Please help me understand how to wire a circuit for this welder

Correct.  This welder has given you a real "jack-a-doodle" set of specs that make no sense at all.  Running 120V/15A is only there so if you have light jobs, you can get 'em done using existing circuits... if you were wiring in a new circuit just for the welder, you would NEVER run 120V, since 240V is a possibility.
What's more, 30A+ 120V sockets and plugs are exceedingly rare and fairly useless for any other purpose.  They are only used for small travel trailers.
So here's what I would do if I were you.
Forget 120V. Go 240V if you are wiring a circuit.
I would use a 30A, 240V breaker.  (not least, 30A/120V breakers are rarely used and practically useless. Your local store's stock will be covered in dust.)
I would use 10/3 w/ground cable to bring that out to a NEMA 14-30 receptacle (standard 4-prong dryer plug) and wire that up all proper. (4 wires, neutral and ground separate).
Since the factory power cord is only #12, I would lop off the NEMT 6-50 plug and wire it to a NEMA 14-50 plug.  Don't use the neutral pin, you don't need it.
Why 120/240V
First and foremost, because presence of a 30A+ 240V socket in your garage, adds value to  your house.  Lots of home buyers these days are looking for electric car charge ports, so seeing that 14-30 ready to go will give you an edge with some buyers.
But also for $3 more in /3 wire instead of /2 wire, and probably $5 savings by buying a more popular socket, you now have plenty of power for the welder.  You're gonna have welding problems as you learn, but at least now, you won't have to worry about power being a problem.
An alternate plan
If you don't like having to change the welder plug, and still want that "electric vehicle" home equity bump, then do this, instead.

Fit a 40A breaker in that 40A subpanel. Really.  Trust me.
Run 8/2 wire.
Use a NEMA 6-50 receptacle. (really. NEMA refuses to define a 40A receptacle, so NEC just says use the 50A).

That was easy.
You still get to "count coup" on the electric vehicle capability, since EVSE's don't actually need neutral.
Yes, I know you have other loads in the 40A subpanel.  The 40A breaker is allowed because of the really weird provisioning rules NEC has for welders.  It gets into lots of complicated stuff about duty cycle.  The gist is your hobby welder doesn't actually need a full 40A provisioned to it, but it's allowed to use a 40A breaker and socket because when it's on, it can draw that much.
Also, let's talk about that #8 feeder wire to the garage. We might be able to bump that feeder up to 50A.


Top center of garage door bumping opener rail as it closes. Does anyone know the fix for this?

In your 3rd 4th and 5th picture you see the top roller which is adjustable. Check them on each side of the door to see if the adjustment bolts have become loose. And then as others have said check all the other nuts and bolts to see if any have loosened. If any have make sure it's not adjustable before you tighten it. In fact I see a loose bolt in one of the photos that's probably causing the problem.


Ceiling drywall nail rusted (new construction)

Short answer is that it's probably fine. Just set it, patch, texture and paint.

More nuanced answer depends on where in the house it's in. If it's a bathroom or other high humidity zone, don't worry about it. (Generally, sheetrock is screwed these days, but it's common enough practice to tack sheets in place with a few nails. Nails aren't particularly rust-resistant.)

If it's below a bathroom or a roof that you might have cause to be suspicious about, then a bit of exploration might be in order. Look for stains nearby; touch the ceiling to see if you can find anything spongy or cooler than its surroundings.


Shelves like the one described can carry a significant load and things are regularly being put on and off, increasing the dynamic load. Unfortunately, from the illustration (and the appearance of the listed item on the sellers website), there are only two screw holes at each end. This puts a serious load on each attachment point.

Plasterboard or even plaster by itself is not a very good support for shelving screws unless there are many attachment points.  I would try to find framing members, usually vertical studs, and align the screws on at least one end with them. You can use a stud finder to locate the stud.

If you cannot align all the screws with studs, on either or both ends, or if the wall is made of plaster over hollow blocks, I would use toggle type anchors instead of the screw in anchors you listed.

These spread the load over  larger area of the plasterboard than screw in anchors, reducing the risk of pullout.

If you cannot align the screws with framing members, a stronger solution would be to mount a board on the wall first, screwing the board to multiple studs, then mounting the shelf to the board with wood screws.

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


Temporarily plug kitchen faucet spray hose inlet

It's hard to see the size but something like a peice of a garage hose and a gear clamp would do the trick.

This is a gear clamp with a handle https://www.mscdirect.com

One with a handle will be helpful because it's tight up there. Cut a section of garden hose, gear clamp it on with one of these

Female hose capwww.homedepot.com

Or a variation of this concept.
P.S. I would advise against leaving a temporary water solution like this unattended. Shut off the water if you are leaving.


Is it normal for the A/C to be dripping from top pvc that's coming from attic?

When the forced air unit is in the attic sometimes the condensation is drained into a normal interior drain and a second, outside drain is used for overflow.  The overflow drain is in a visible place so you know that the main drain isn't working and you can fix it.  In fact I had this very problem a few weeks ago.

If you remember being told it should never drip from the upper drain, it sounds to me like it could be a secondary overflow drain.  In that case it would be worth getting it checked out.


Can I connect two LED lights to the same power driver?

Judging by the specifications given for those Lights, an LED driver is not what you need.

They're listed as supporting "10-30v DC Voltage", which means that they must have their own LED driver circuitry already inside them, so all you need to supply is an appropriate DC voltage in that range from a power supply which can handle the load.

You are correct that the supply (driver) must be rated for at least 36W to support both of the lights, so for example if you have a 12V supply, it must be able to provide at least 3A (since 12V x 3A = 36W). If you use a 24V supply, then 1.5A will be enough.

Once you have an appropriate supply, connect the lights in parallel to its output (that's + from both lights going together to + out from supply and - from both lights going together to - from supply).


Since all are flashing, this is a power supply problem.  (You can call it a transformer if you like.)

The "flashing, then shutting off" behavior is typical of a power supply which is overloaded.  The power supply starts up, and its self-protection circuits discover that it's overloaded, and shuts the power supply down in what's called a "crowbar".  The power supply then reboots and tries again.  This results in the flashing.  It sounds like your power supply has an additional feature that it stops retrying after n number of tries.

So your first solution is to reduce your load.  You already do this when only 3 lights are connected.  You can also put an ammeter on the line and see how much power is actually being drawn, and compare that to the spec on the power supply.

Noting that your switch arrangement is highly unusual, I have to wonder if something about it is causing more amps to flow than intended. I.e. A miswiring of some kind.


How can I minimize brush marks in polyurethane where wood grain meets from different directions?

I would sand the surface with a fine grit paper to remove any brush marks. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the dust. Get you a foam roller and roll a coat onto the surface. Roll slowly to prevent too many air bubbles. Allow it to dry and put a second finish coat on it. Three coats is standard in the industry. Foam rollers tend to leave a smooth finish overall with no worry of brush marks. You can also add some Japanese Drier to the poly to make it dry faster.


Is it dangerous to run electrical cords through heating vents?

Any electrical socket in a bathroom must have GFCI protection. You're damp, you touch something with a ground fault, feel a slight tickle and wake up wearing a halo and wings. Of all places to hack together power supplies, a bathroom is absolutely the worst place to do this. Mystical theories about the heater protecting the strip from dampness don't remove the shock hazard.

Fire hazard is not your problem here


What type of cleaner should I use to remove a puke stain from concrete?

Muriatic acid in a weak solution with water (10% acid) will clean almost any stain on cement.
Remember to use gloves and if going any stronger than 10% it can make an unpleasant smell.
All swimming pool stores have it and most Home Depot, lows, Jerry’s stores also carry it.
When mixing add the acid to the water (when you open the bottle it will be quite strong so you want to have fresh air).
Put the mix on the area, let sit for a few minutes then mop up and rinse 3 times with water, caution it may make a very clean spot like new cement.


You aren't allowed to do it that way anymore

That trick you learned a long time ago has been hit by a bunch of code changes, which almost moot what you plan.  It also has a name: Multi-Wire Branch Circuit.

Neutrals must be pigtailed at every splice point or receptacle.  You cannot land the two white wires on a device.   If you ever removed the receptacle, it would sever the neutral for the other half of the circuit, which is not allowed.
You must use a 2-pole breaker with common trip, or you must use two adjacent full-size breakers with handle ties so you must turn them off together.
Using a double-stuff is NO; that will set your wiring on fire. A quadplex can be used if you really know what you're doing and put it on the 2-pole middle.

If you do all those things, and stop to make sure you follow the other MWBC rules, then it is OK.  But...

This does not play with GFCI

The problem with GFCI and MWBC is the shared neutral.  A neutral cannot be both the MWBC shared neutral and also the protected-zone downline neutral coming off the load terminals of a GFCI+receptacle.

Every GFCI+receptacle device comes with a warning sticker across the LOAD terminals.  It says "Do Not Use. for Wizards Only." Or words to that effect.

Option 1 is to heed that advice and fit GFCI+receptacles where you need them, not using the LOAD lines at all.  That means up to eight GFCI+receptacles.

Option 2 is fit a 2-pole GFCI breaker, and wire the circuit in the normal way you intended, but with normal outlets.  DONE.  This works because the entire MWBC complex is inside the GFCI protected zone, so you can do all the normal MWBC things therein.  A 2-pole GFCI breaker is typically $80.

Option 3 is to fork the MWBC at the first receptacle, and carry them as 2 separate circuits each with their own hot-neutral.  You'd need /2/2 cable (black red white white-striped-red): /4 would not do since it only has one neutral. You could also use two separate /2 cables in the obvious way.


New construction, do the supports look correct in the attic?

Those look like temporary supports judging from the lack of fasteners, and if so, there's nothing wrong with supporting something temporarily in whatever way works.  I just assume because I don't think most tradesmen would leave an unfastened but somehow necessary 2x4 passing through a living space at an odd angle.  If you look on Youtube there are videos of people doing solo framing erection, using simple ropes, levers, wedges and 2x4 temporary props to hold things in place while they're tacked together.  Sometimes they are forgotten and left in place, but this is unlikely to cause a problem because of the typical limited weight.
If so, they have really nothing to do with the long term reliability or stability of the framing.  Either way, you may need an engineer if you want to speculate on the long term reliability, stability or load bearing capacity of the actual permanent roof members.  Presumably you have already had this done, so you could compare the plan to what was actually built.
If this is intended to be permanent and critical support and has more fasteners than I see, it does look a bit iffy to me, and the solution is the same.  See what the engineering diagrams indicate and if it differs, have the tradesman in question demonstrate his calculations and that he had a right to make them (I'm an electrician, and electricians are given authority to calculate certain things, and with other things absolutely must follow specifications provided by other professionals, so I would imagine framers are trained and have at least some ability to calculate and rework supports.


Will electric in-floor heat be adequate in a converted barn?

I agree with Ed Beal, get the plans of the layout. Also, confirm if the building, slab or crawlspace was indeed insulated or everything was inspected & what Passes or Fails were issued. I'd also put a Contingency in the Agreement Of Sale that it must be found to be completely sound. You'd have an Electrician test what he can, even if it's just continuity readings.

If it doesn't or can't be checked out, then see what you might be allowed to use to assist, supplement or replace it with. Like: Electric Baseboards, Wood Stoves, Passive Solar, More or Better Insulation or Geo-Thermal Heat Pump.


If the ceiling is flat without any swails or bulges then it is quite likely that the one joist is out of alignment with the others. It may have bowed up or was never aligned properly in the first place.

If the ceiling sheetrock was in stress being installed onto that particular joist it is entirely possible for the nails or screws to pull through the material from the back without disturbing the surface on the bottom. Usually in the case of popping nails the cause is that the nail pushes out toward the finished surface.

If the ceiling surface is flat, which you can tell by pushing the edge of a long straight board up against the ceiling from below, you would not want to try reattaching the sheet to the same joist. It would be more appropriate to fasten a board against the side of that one joist that projects down to the upper surface of the sheetrock. Then secure the sheetrock by screwing into that new board.

On the other hand if the ceiling has bulges and swails then you will have to re-evaluate and take appropriate steps. This could span the range of possibilities of accepting the way it is to complete removal of all or parts of the ceiling and shimming joists and replacing the sheetrock.


Dryer exhaust from 2nd floor through crawl space, out roof

If possible, you want everything rigid: the connection from the dryer to the wall, the duct in the wall, and the duct in the attic. Sometimes rigid for the connection between the dryer and the wall is difficult to get right with a rigid duct so if you have to go with flexible duct then use the smallest piece practical.

A secondary lint trap is probably not worth the effort. instead, invest you money in a dryer vent cleaning kit, which is a brush with a couple of screw-together flexible rods that you can chuck in to a drill. Clean your duct using this brush once a year.


If you are adventurous and have a lot of patience, remove the upholstery over the crack to get both sides exposed. That is the adventurous part. Next, widen ALL the cracks, even the little hairline cracks radiating from the larger ones, with a fine tooth narrow blade saw, something like a drywall saw, with finer teeth if possible. Get them all open to about 3/8" wide or so, a litle wider is ok, but not much more than 3/4". Wider=more difficult. Square out the areas where the small cracks stop, make sure you cut out all the crack. That is the patience part. Removal of the upholstery will keep everything clean, especially in the next step.

Using a can of the original, minimal expanding Touch and Foam for doors and windows, (no I do not work for them), NOT the latex based, but the urethane based, use the applicator straw to fill the cracks you just widened. The density of the foam should be compatible with the couch, and this stuff sticks to EVERYTHING, including you. The foam will expand beyond the face of the existing foam, use a piece of cardboard to flatten it down. This will smear it over the surrounding surfaces, creating a stronger bond and creating a skin that is denser than the "core" of foam in the center of the new application.

If the old foam will not line up with the remainder of the couch, you will need to support it in place to keep it in line with the rest while you do the repair. If it does not to cooperate, use a piece of 1/4" plywood on the inside, the upholstered side, bedded with the foam to reinforce it. Do not let the foam's expanding push it up to make a lump under your cushion. If it pushes out of the cracks you widened, trowel it flush with the cardboard.


When is it appropriate to use a wood rule rather than a tape measure?

You should use the wood rules when:

you have a beard
prefer flannel
use only hand tools
prefer your lattes with artisan made, gluten free, non-dairy, coconut milk
live in Brooklyn, NY or Portland, OR


Electric sockets directly under water pipes under the sink - Safety

I believe this is not uncommon. The circuit must be protected by an RCD (RCBO). There is usually a means of disconnecting or isolating the socket from above if the socket is inaccessible when appliances are installed.

However see NICEIC/ELECSA Guide to Electrical Work in the Kitchen

  Electrical sockets or switches should be fitted at a safe distance (it
  is recommended at least 30cm horizontally) from a sink to avoid
  the chance of water coming into contact with electricity.

  Sockets should also be easily accessible. If appliances such as
  fridges, dishwashers and washing machines are fitted under
  worktops, getting to sockets may be difficult. Ideally, these
  appliances should be controlled by a switched fuse connection unit
  mounted above the worktop where you can reach it easily.

  All new sockets in a house require protection by an RCD (Residual
  Current Device)

The Consumer Units (Main Electrical Panel) in UK homes now typically have Dual-RCD protection. You could easily check this by inspection.

You can buy advanced socket testers that would allow you to verify correct RCD operation at the sockets under your sink.

If you want, I suspect there is nothing stopping you replacing the socket faceplate with one rated for external use (with a rainproof cover which can be closed over plug-cables) - some incorporate RCD protection. I suspect most electricians would regard this as pretty odd though.

If you search for advice you'll often see something like

  Regulation 512.2.1, requires equipment to be of a design appropriate to the situation in which it is to be used or its mode of installation must take account of the conditions likely to be encountered.

I am not an electrician and do not have access to the 17th Edition. The above does not constitute advice from a qualified person. You can pay for an independent inspection and electrical installation condition report (EICR)


Can I use a separate 24V transformer with an Ecobee 3 and an Aube relay?

This is A-OK

Wire R and W from the relay box to Rh and W/W1 on the Ecobee, while leaving the relay's C terminal unused.  Then wire the secondary of the separate transformer to Rc and C on the Ecobee.  The Ecobee will figure all the rest out by itself, running off of the separate transformer on Rc while switching power from Rh to W to control the heat.

P.S. any standard 24VAC HVAC transformer will do here.


Should felt paper overhang an eave drip edge?

There is no need to overhang the felt underlayment. If you do, it will sag and look sloppy. The important part is to make sure you have the correct overhang of shingles. I usually leave about 1/2-3/4" overhang, even when there is a drip edge.

Here are some FEMA Roofing Guidelines.


15A circuit allowed to supply multiple general purpose receptacles?

In the US under the NEC in a residential setting there is no prohibition for a 15A general use receptacle circuit. You are correct in that some areas; kitchens (and similar/associated rooms), laundry, bathrooms, do require 20A receptacle circuits, but there is nothing that prohibits 15A receptacle circuits in most other places.


This looks like the same fan I put in my master bath when I built my house 22 years ago. That fan came with a "life time" warranty, so when I wanted to replace the blower fan I was advised that Broan considered lifetime to be 10 years. I read the warranty words to their representative and asked where in the statement did it say that "lifetime" was defined as 10 years. I was able to get them to send me a replacement squirrel cage fan blade but that was all they would do. Here is what I would do for your fan, remove the motor and the fan blade by taking out the whole metal plate it is mounted too and carefully clean the fan blade. Use a small screw driver and air compressor to remove the built up dirt (there should be a lot) from the cupped vanes, reach up into the air discharge area and make sure that the discharge flapper is free to swing open. Go outside to where the discharge air exits the house and make sure that there is nothing in the discharge duct that will affect the air flow. If the discharge duct is laid horizontally make sure it is laid flat. Mine is laid with-in the soft insulation and has now formed a partial trap in the vent hose. During the winter the high humidity air causes the water to condense a partially block the air flow. My solution is to run the fan for a few hours when no-one is taking a shower to remove some of the built up water in the hose. (do not turn the fan off as soon as your shower is finished). Also as @Ed Beal35 said, make sure that the bottom of the door has a gap. I have found out that the gap should be at least 1/2" and that3/4" is even better. By the way, that 3rd switch is probably for a night light bulb which mine has. Great for night time when you need just a little light. Lastly, that 80 CFM should be large enough for almost any size bathroom.


Why have all my LED bulbs stopped working at once?

I had a problem where I bought a house with a dimmer on the chandelier. We never used the dimmer portion, but it was one of the old style dimmers and you had to push the dimmer knob in to turn it on. One night, my daughter bumped the knob while turning it on and a LED bulb blew out. It wasn't an expensive bulb thankfully (Black Friday sale), but it still scared her. I replaced it with a standard switch and it's worked fine ever since.

It sounds like you have the non-dimmable LEDs like I do (they're cheaper). Any variance in the voltage could cause this problem (it's how the old-school dimmers did it). Make sure you don't have any stray voltage in your house. This could be a precursor to a wiring problem. As others have mentioned, get a voltmeter or an electrician out to make sure it's not wiring related.


How to remove outdoor drain cover to clean insides and prevent overflow?

Either stick a screwdriver/crowbar in the gap round the edge and lever it up, or just stick a crowbar into the grillwork and lever.  Be careful with the second option though - if it's fixed in hard, you might snap the grill.

Check the small holes at the top and bottom of the picture - they might contain some sort of bolt which needs to be unscrewed with (eg) an Allan Key.


Braided stainless steel water supply hoses versus rubber hoses

The braided stainless steel flex supply lines are just jacketed with braided stainless. The jacket is there for appearance and perhaps resistance to incidental contact damage, but has nothing to do with the pressure rating.

In general, rubber hose is not used for faucets and cisterns; the hoses (whether jacketed with braided stainless or not) are commonly reinforced PVC (at least in my area, anyway). The washers are often EDPM rubber...


Toilet flushes just fine. But the bathroom sink is backed up

The U bend or "P" trap below the sink may be plugged with hair and soap scum causing it to back up. when you flush the toilet the gurgling could be caused from the slight vacuum the water running down the pipe when you flush. The drain stopper in the sink is usually a place hair and soap get stuck also.

Place a bucket under the pipe and dissemble the trap. It's usually not very difficult. The water will run into the bucket. Clean out the U and, if you can see hair stuck in the stopper, the shaft that pushes it up and down can be unscrewed and removed. Then the hair usually falls out. Reassemble and see if everything drains.

The plug could be a few feet further down if this did not work but a inexpensive hand snake of 15-25' put down the pipe after the u bend of the sink would clear the plug if the "P" trap was not the problem.

This repair is something every home owner should try and it will save hundreds over the years instead of calling a plummer. Here is a link to a nice hand snake There are cheaper and more expensive ones available. If taken care of they do last decades. Good luck on your first plumbing job.


The hot and neutral are at the light box. Another Romex is ran down to the switch box and viola, a switch loop.

You cannot use this for more lights unless you rewire some things and add more wiring to this switch.


You've got hot and switched hot on the existing switch. If the box is grounded properly then you will get 120V from hot (or switched hot when it is switched on) to the box. You will also get 120V from hot to neutral when the switch is off. If I understand it correctly (and Harper or one of the other real experts will correct me if I'm wrong), the circuit is actually:

hot -> switch -> switched hot -> light fixture -> neutral

The problem is often, particularly in older installations, that neutral is not present within the box because it is not needed by older switches. But neutral is needed by the light - just often that neutral will bypass the actual box since it wasn't (without a smart switch and prior to current code) required inside the box for any reason.

In your case, if I understand the pictures correctly, multiple black (hot) and white (neutral) wires nutted together. That indicates you have some additional circuits - e.g., outlets or more lights controlled by another switch - that are sharing the hot & neutral with this light switch & fixture. That is perfectly normal, but the result is that the neutral for the light fixture depends on those white wires being together. Removing the wire nut breaks the light circuit, and probably some other outlets or lights elsewhere in your house.

Bottom line: The white wires nutted together should be neutral, and you should be able to add another wire (pigtail) from the smart switch into that bundle/wire nut.

One more thing to be watch for: Hot vs. Switched Hot

In an ordinary single (i.e., one switch, as opposed to 2 switches - which is actually called 3-way) switch, it does not matter in any practical way which wire (hot vs. switched hot) is connected to which screw. However, with a smart switch you must make sure that hot and switched hot are connected according to the switch instructions. Hot is the wire that goes to the wire nutted bundle of blacks. Switched hot is the black wire (it doesn't have to be black, but it is in your particular case) going from the switch out of the box all by itself. If your switch instructions refer instead to line and load, line == hot and load == switched hot.


adding an electric range/oven in house with only 100amp main service?

Your panel needs to be reviewed, carefully.

When you do, you'll have no trouble finding 2 spaces.

It's a quality CH panel, albeit with only 20 spaces.  I'm not counting the top 2 spaces in each row, which collectively are the main breaker (100A).   Good news is, with this panel arrangement, if you shut off the main breaker, everything is cold except those conspicuous large screws. Which makes it more DIY-friendly than most.

I see seven 240V breakers tying up 14 of 20 spaces.  That means all 120V loads in the entire house are served by six 120V breakers, which is pretty compact.  I don't believe a house can have seven 240V loads.  The usual big four are dryer, A/C, water heater and oven. So I suspect many of these breakers are surplus, particularly since they're off.

The only conceivable reason for this many 240V breakers is having all-electric heat, e.g. baseboard, and if that's the case, forget about an electric range/oven - you just don't have enough service.

Two of those 240V loads are 120/240 split phase.  The right side middle rows are a 30A breaker, and looks to have the heavier 10 AWG wire, so it looks to be a dryer.  The left side 4th and 5th from the bottom is weird because the white wire is being used as a hot, and the red wire is taped white and used as a neutral (which is illegal to do).  That's not right.  It might be a multi-wire branch circuit or MWBC, serving two 120V circuits, but I doubt it.

I see a red wire that's taped off, that means there's another black-red-white cable with black and white only being used. That seems weirdly sloppy (why use white for a 240V circuit when you have red) which only worries me more about the quality of work in general.

Even worse, look at the bottom right breaker.  It's a 60A breaker but that's NOT a 4 AWG wire. It's either 12 AWG or maybe 10 AWG. That needs a 20A or 30A breaker, respectively.  I know exactly what those breakers cost, so no excuse!  SHUT IT OFF NOW.  NEVER turn it back on.  Replace with a 20 or 30A breaker respectively, most hardware stores stock CH220 or CH230.  And if it trips, it's supposed to.

Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln...

Go through each circuit in the panel, for two reasons.  First, to find any more defects -- after all, I could find two whoppers from a photo.  Second, to understand what you do have, so you can either trim or consolidate and free up 2 breaker spaces.

Don't bother hunting down double-stuff (duplex/tandem) CH breakers.  Yes, they exist, but you really, really need to re-evaluate this panel, given the large number of defects I've seen from one measly photo.  And I think as you do so, you'll free up some space.

Oven/range is straightforward

You simply need a 50A breaker and 6 AWG copper (or 4 AWG aluminum).  You could go 40A and 8 AWG, but the difference is only a few bucks, and you'll have a wider selection of ovens/ranges if you go 50A.  CH 50A breakers are readily available, not quite as widely stocked as the 20/30s but any big-box should have them.   You cannot reuse the 60A breaker.

However, cooking on electric kinda sucks, if you're coming from gas.  It's a very annoying learning curve, and a lot of compromises and workarounds. Not recommended.

If you must upgrade the panel

CH is a fine system.  One option is get a larger CH panel.  However, if you replace the panel, you will need to upgrade most of all of your 6-8 120V loads to AFCI or GFCI or both/combo, and that could get costly.  The disadvantage to CH or any 3/4" wide breaker is being smaller, there's less space to cram advanced tech, so they're more expensive or unavailable.

Don't go cheap. This panel is much better than the Homelite and other shlock the local big-box is shoveling. (You can't go by brand anymore, as good brands like Square D and Eaton have bought up cheapie sub-brands.)  You have to ask for the good stuff.  Get a top-shelf panel from a proper electrical supply. And go really big - bare minimum 42-space, 60-space is not too many.  If the main breaker for such a panel is too large, bypass it - put a 100A breaker in the normal spaces and backfeed it (much like is occurring in this panel).


what to do if tile of shower is 58.5 at top and 57.5" at bottom for door?

That is way out of plumb... but don't worry, there are solutions. You need a shower enclosure that has 2-piece side frames. They are designed so that the outer piece that the door(s) butt up against when closed can be adjusted by sliding them into a "U" shaped channel that attaches to the tile:


How do I stop a leak in a refrigerator water line connection?

It looks like a compression fitting which requires that the tubing be round to make a good seal.  The tight bend seems like it has crimped the tubing and probably has broken the seal.

You need a new compression fitting attached to the fridge. If there is play in the copper line, you may be able to remove the fitting, cut the tubing to get to a place where the tubing is not bent and crimped,replace the nut on the tubing and place a new compression ring on the tubing and reseal (with teflon tape on the threads).  Make sure that the tubing is going stright down toward the fridge connection and is not bent (like the current one).

If there is not enough play in the tubing, you may need to replace the whole line to the next connector.


What handle and lock for sliding door with no internal mechanism?

This is somewhat of a tangent, but 1959 is early enough that it's possible that tempered/safety glass wasn't used in the door. (Internet says 1964 is when that requirement went into place in America.) If it's using normal window glass and someone trips and falls through the door, they could be severely injured or die. With that in mind, I recommend checking the corners of the glass insert for any markings like "tempered". If there are no markings, I would recommend at least considering replacement of the whole door.


Surge protection(Kinda) with a power bar

A power strip will not be able to fully protect your equipment just turned off with a direct lighting strike. The switch contacts are only a few 1/10's of an inch apart. How many miles did the lightning travel prior to the strike? Turning the switch off will keep the equipment safe from most transient spikes caused from lighting and switch gear transfers. There are small surge suppressors that can be added to the outlet prior to your sensitive equipment that will help reduce the spikes but a direct strike will fry them in hopes of saving other equipment. like this many of the power strips have less than 150 joule capacity, the model above is 600 joules but the cost is higher.


What is proper way to wire hard wired LED strip light power supply/controller/driver?

I'm pretty sure the proper way involves using a (large) electrical box (Thanks Nate S).  They make them in a variety of sizes--some quite large, like the ones holding your circuit breakers.  I saw a picture of a large one containing a large switching power supply.  You mount it some place out of the way, like in the basement, or in the attic (if you have access) and then run low voltage wires to the room/led tape.

If the power supply is pigtailed, I also think you could butt it up against an electrical box and have the high voltage wires enter where it butts up.  That way no high voltage wires are exposed--kind of how I see the doorbell or boiler transformer mounted to a box.  I'm basing this solely on the transformers I've seen.


Why do I detect voltage on my ground of surge protector?

More information needed.

What do you measure "energy on  ground" RELATIVE TO ?
If it was a hard ground you'd see 100 VAC from lobe to ground. If it is a low resistance ground your meter resistance will affect the result.

For a metwer connected from Vmains to "ground"
Vreading = Vmains x Rground / (Rground + Rmeter)

Some testers measure to local capacitive ground - sometimes the user touches a rear contact as a reference and their body capacity to "ground" is used as a reference. (Try not to "test" 10 kV circuits using these )

You say vent duct work resistance (to "true" ground?) was 20 Ohms. How do you know?

Be aware that by adding a low quality local ground you may INCREASE the risk of electric shock. See my answer to How does earthing work when earth is dry? to see why.


What to use to encapsulate asbestos tile in basement?

If the tiles are 9" x 9" then they are probably asbestos. If they are 12" x 12" then they probably are not asbestos. However, the mastic could be asbestos for either. So, you could test, but there isn't a necessity to do so. I agree with you Inspector and leave them in place.

There are many problems pouring a concrete floor on an existing concrete floor (moisture issues, height issues at doorways if entire floor level is not done, reducing height in room, etc.) and I don't think it's necessary. You can install a new floor covering without pouring a new floor.

Regardless, if the tiles are secured (solid) to the floor, then you could prepare the broken/missing tile areas and install a new material over it without pouring a new floor first. If the tiles are not secure, then installing a new engineered wood floor on moisture barrier (polysheeting) on your "prepared" floor would be best, because you don't have to worry about the material "telegraphing" every defect through the new material. It's easy to install (snaps together) and you could probably do it yourself.


Help with framing around old basement stairway

The current wall doesn't look at all structural, so removing it should not cause any structural problems.


How can I extend a shower curtain to close a gap at the floor?

I would buy a second set of those white plastic loops and drop the curtain down easily that way.


I feel like I should rewire my older trailer home , I don't even know where to start

Mia, I don't mean to panic you, but you really should get an electrician to inspect your wiring as soon as you can. If it's something  minor, you've taken a sensible precaution and gotten a problem fixed. If it's something major, you may save you and your daughter's lives.

There's a possibility that it's something serious enough to start a fire.

It sounds like you may have loose connections in your service panel (breaker box) or even loose or broken connections somewhere else, like in an outlet box or inside a wall. There's a chance it is a single bad connection.

If the neutral connection in your service panel is loose or open, you could get wildly fluctuating voltage on your branch circuits, as you turn lights and appliances on and off, which could burn lights out quickly or even cause appliances to suddenly catch on fire.

There's even a condition where an open neutral can cause current to "leak" into moist wood in your walls, which over enough time can completely dry the wood out and turn it into kind of a charcoal tinder, which is another fire risk.


Is there a min distance between spa disconnect panel and outdoor shower?

I can find nothing in the National Electrical Code to prevent you from doing this.

It is the hot tub that is required to be at least 5' away from the disconnect.

  680.12 Maintenance Disconnecting Means. One or more means to simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors shall be provided for all utilization equipment other than lighting. Each means shall be readily accessible and within sight from its equipment and shall be located at least 1.5 m (5 ft) horizontally from the inside walls of a pool, spa, or hot tub unless separated from the open water by a permanently installed barrier that provides a 1.5 m (5 ft) reach path or greater. This horizontal distance is to be measured from the water’s edge along the shortest path required to reach the disconnect.

Light fixtures and switches are regularly close to showers indoors and I would argue this is similar even though it is outdoors. Electrical panels are not allowed in bathrooms, but this is not a panel and a lone shower does not constitute a bathroom.

Still, if feasible I would place it further away just as a safety measure.

Good luck and stay safe!


Attaching a drain cock for my air compressor to a workbench?

I think you want an automatic compressor drain. It essentially spurts out a little air (and some moisture/condensate with it) each time the compressor motor cycles on. When working properly, they eliminate the need to manually drain down the tank.

http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/ has a good explanation of how to install the kit.


Shower pump bearings going - risk of a leak?

The failure mode on a shower pump should be that it simply stops working if the bearings go, ie grind to a halt or just not turn on. There should be safeties that prevent overheating and it is unlikely it will leak. However, unlikely is not a guarantee nothing bad will happen, and if you know it's going I'd take action to fix it or replace it before you have a chance to find out.


Lot grading, water percolation & french drain on the property line along the fence..What is a correct drainage for this property?

I'm not sure how much "fair" applies to geology. If you have the downhill lot, gravity is just going to do what gravity does. :-)

It looks like water is definitely draining off of both yours and your neighbor's lots into the depression that the fence sits in. If the soil can absorb all the water quickly enough, there's no issue. Your neighbor's hard surface parking lot, and your hard surface patio, both reduce the amount of soil available for water to absorb into and cause more surface water to flow wherever it flow. Very little water will absorb into the ground under those hard surfaces. (Engineering for this kind of run-off is a serious engineering issue when facilities are built with large parking lots and large roof areas).

If your fence posts are rotting at the base, be sure you replace them with pressure-treated posts. Maybe the original posts were not pressure treated? If not, even modest amounts of moisture would rot them fairly quickly.

The same principles apply to water that seeps into the ground and migrates in your direction. You're further downhill. There's just no getting around that. Once the ground is saturated, the water will pool up on top and rapidly flow downhill. And of course if there is more high ground on your neighbor's side of the fence, gravity is going to tend to move the underground water in your direction. You definitely want good drainage away from the foundation of your house. Otherwise, you'll eventually end up with seeping basement walls, or a crawlspace you could use a canoe in.

Is the planned dry well the only option you have for drainage? Is there a slope in any direction that would let you run a perforated 4" pipe (ABC or PVC) to the street to drain excess into the city storm drains (essentially extending the french drain)? The blue line in your diagram shows water flowing away from the house and garages toward what I presume is the back of your lot, but you don't specify what's back in that direction (an alley? Another lot line? A street with gutters and storm drains? A field?).

Generally speaking, though, if you have those french drains built right, with perforated pipe buried in gravel, you can tie them together with additional underground pipe sloping downhill away from the house. If you bury them in plenty of sand and gravel, that will create a lot of additional absorption for water, and provide extra time for the water to absorb into the surrounding soil.

I'm curious if you are on city sewer, or if you have a septic system and a drain field. If you have room in the back of your lot, and if drainage is really that big an issue with water pooling around your house on a regular basis, you could even potentially build something like a septic system drain field--without the septic tank--to direct more water away from your foundations and give it more underground area to absorb into the soil. But that's kind of the big issue. The ground can only absorb so much water in a given amount of time. That varies widely based on the composition of the soil. Dense clay soils can't absorb as much water. Soil that is already saturated can't absorb more water. So the water is going to run somewhere unless you can spread it out underground and expose it to a bigger area of soil. Even then, if the flow is too high, those french drains will back up and you'll have water pooling up above them.

I worked as a design tech for civil engineers once upon a time, and I remember stories of a city sewer system that was under-designed to the extent that when a "100 year storm" would occur, water pressure would back up and water would flow back up out of manholes, with the manhole covers literally pushed up off the ground riding on top of the water flow out (that's a lot of pressure).


Combination "Tamper Proof", "GFCI", and "AFCI" receptacle locations?

You could use:

An arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) breaker, a tamper resistant (TR) ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacle, and standard TR receptacles.

An AFCI breaker, a standalone GFCI device, and standard TR receptacles.

A dual function circuit interrupter (DFCI), and standard TR receptacles.

NOTES:

There are rules about where an ACFI device can be installed in a circuit, so I'm not sure an AFCI receptacle would work in all situations.

You should be able to find standard, GFCI, and AFCI tamper resistant receptacles. I'm not sure if a dual function receptacle is available at all, but who knows what the future holds.


A light switch with current that has a red and black wire attached but does not control a light or receptacle

You most likely have a split (or formerly split) duplex receptacle somewhere.

Most of the time, duplex receptacles are set up such that the top and bottom halves function identically and are fed by the same wire.  However, by breaking a small brass tab on the receptacle, it's possible to wire them such that the top and bottom halves function separately.  This can be done to allow one half to be always-hot, and the other half to be controlled by a switch, which I suspect is how your outlet was set up originally.

Now, if you've checked both halves of all receptacles in the room with the switch and find that they're all always hot, it's time to start pulling off some outlet covers.  If at some point in the past the half-switched outlet was replaced, it's very possible that whoever replaced it just landed all the wires on the same screws as before, but didn't realize they also needed to break off the brass tab.  This would result in the always-hot and the switched-hot wires being paralleled, and both halves of the outlet would be always-hot regardless of switch position.  The fix for this, assuming you want the outlet to be half-switched again, is to shut off the circuit at the breaker panel, and break the tab connecting the two halves.


Add some ground pigtails

Take the existing bundle of bare (ground) wires, and add a couple pigtails of bare or green wire to the bundle, making sure the bundle is joined properly using a wirenut or push-in connector instead of just being twisted together.  The other ends of the pigtails simply land on the green ground screws of the new dimmers.


I've attempted to build a reasonably soundproof music room in my basement and can tell you it is a tall order.  I built a room when finishing my basement using double drywall with Green Glue, a floating double drywall ceiling with hat channel and isolation clips, sealed outlets, and re-routed HVAC and it I can still only play at a moderate volume without disturbing the peace upstairs.

The best thing you can do is build a room within your room that is structurally separated from the existing walls and ceiling.  Fill the space in between with Roxul Safe and Sound Insulation (Lowes). It's the best option but still has limitations and is not cheap.  There are many examples if you Google it.

If the room already exists and you're on a tight budget, you can just do your best to hang heavy material on the walls like quilts, etc. and isolate anything that generates sound from the surfaces of the room with rubber mats, mouse pads, etc. Also avoid cutting holes in the ceiling for recessed lighting etc. Use lamps or surface mount lights. Anything you can do to reduce vibration (sound) from getting to the existing structure of your house will help.

Hope this helps.


What is the best way to insulate an unvented interior vaulted ceiling with 2x6 rafters?

You cannot completely fill the attic space like you can a wall cavity. Remember, you'll need at least 1" air space above the insulation for "attic ventilation."
If you choose to use the 2x6 roof joists, you'll only be able to "fill" the joist space up about 4.5".  So, your choices are 3 1/2" thick batt insulation for an R-value of about R-11.9 or rigid insulation board for a R-20 to R-30, depending on the type of board.
If you choose sistering 2x10's, then they have a net depth of 9 1/4". Therefore, leaving about 1" for venting, the net depth of insulation should be about 8" or so. That would give you R-19 to R-21 with batts or R-30 to R-60, depending on the type of board. (By the way, the R-60 is with polyisocyanurate boards, which are very expensive.)
Also, you're correct in assuming there is a significant R-value reduction because of the 3" of solid wood joist space.
If you furr down a 2x4 "ceiling" joist system, you could create a deeper attic space and use blown-in insulation, which is much cheaper. However, you'll need to verify that the 2x6 roof joists can support such a load. (Note: If you have an average load of about 25 lbs. per sq. Ft. Live load and 15 lbs. per sq. ft. dead load, then my calculations indicate 2x6 joists at 24" oc will only span about 8' to 10', depending on the grade of lumber. If the span is further, you could add 2x8 or 2x10 ceiling joists and support the existing 2x6 roof joists "up".
Also, you indicate the slope is about 27 degrees, which is slightly steeper than 6:12 (26.5 degrees). Blown-in insulation will tend to settle down to the walls, become ineffective and block the vent space on that steep of slope. Consider lowering the new 2x10 ceiling joists down to 2:12 pitch (about 9 degrees).


Should a new asphalt driveway have rough sections where stones are showing?

They look normal to me, however, you may want to seal them.  There are various sealing products out there like Latex-ite 4-Gallon Acrylic Plus Driveway Revitalizer Filler/Sealer from The Home Depot or Driveaseal 4.75 Gallon Blacktop Driveway Sealer, BLACK JACK 4.75 Gallon Drive-Maxx 700 Advanced Gel Blacktop Driveway Filler & Sealer, and BLACK JACK 4.75-Gallon Asphalt Sealer from Lowes.


How to do modern interior window trim (extension jamb)?

If the look you want is modern trimless, be careful on how you remove the jamb extensions. It looks like the window jamb may go over the wood jamb extensions.
You will not need to add drywall to the returns. Add plywood instead, this way you can add 3/4" 1/2" or 1/4" where needed and add shims if things are at an angle. Then add your corner bead to that, or even this...
Image courtesy Lowes
That way when the finished wood jamb is in place, the reveal, will be consistent all the way around and the dimension you wish to see.
When adding plywood or solid wood fillers you may need to keep it flush with the existing drywall to give either the corner bead or L bead some backing since it will be difficult to add a small sliver of drywall to the edge. It would be unnecessary to cut back the drywall, just to add more.
The L bead has a raised edge so the nail heads are below the raised edge so the nail heads do not get into the finish. This would all depend on what you have to work with. The standard corner bead may be the better choice.


Difficulty attaching 2x4s to poured concrete wall

The drill bits that come with the screws are junk.

Also if you don't have a Slotted-Drill-Sytem (SDS) Hammer drill then all you have is a drill that wants to be a hammer drill when it grows up.

I have one of the Milwaukee's like that and had the same problems until I dropped some money and bought a Bosch SDS. I wanted a Hilti but the price was a little high for a homeowner. Hilti is all our contractors buy for a good reason. They are the best. The Bosch I bought is a good runner up though. Makes a ½" hole 3" deep in solid concrete in about 45 seconds.

You could still use the semi-hammer drill but get your self some good carbide tipped drill bits and pack a lunch.

Good luck!


Assuming you plan to live in the house while this is going on, you should seriously look at the plastic "curtain" products which can be used to isolate the construction zone. They can tremendously reduce how much dust gets into the rest of the house.

Speaking of dust, a serious dust mask (one that achieves a good seal against the face rather than the cheap "nuisance dust" paper things) is a good investment, and surprisingly affordable. You only get one pair of lungs; it's worth protecting them.

Given that you've got kids in the house, you may want to think about whether any of the layers you're removing might contain lead. If so, you may want to test first... and if you find lead, you probably want to hire someone who knows how to properly control it and clean up afterward rather than going DIY.


Dewalt circular saw, motor works but blade doesn’t turn

I believe you will find that the Dewalt DCS570 is not a direct-drive from the motor but has a reduction gear.  It sounds as though that gear drive has failed somehow.
If this is under warranty, contact Dewalt.  If not, then it may be serviceable.  It looks like parts for this model are available from Dewalt.


What is the feasibility of an elevated home extension - versus adding a floor inside a 16-foot high basement?

Based on your drawing, and the picture from your previous question, your basement/crawl space does not appear to be a good candidate to turn it into living space.

The only thing that basement is really good for is storage. It would not make a good living space because there appears to be a moisture problem there. Any kind of construction material placed down there would get damp and moldy. It also doesn't appear to have many windows, so those would need to be added.

An addition would be a good way to add some additional space. However, that would be very expensive. That is not a DIY job, and it will require you to hire an engineer/architect, general contractor, carpenters, plumbers, roofers, etc. You would also need to have accurate architectural plans drawn up and submitted to the local building inspector just so you can get a building permit. If you are building close to the edge of your property, you may also need to have a survey done to make sure it is set back from the property line far enough.

Unfortunately, it is not like the old days where a home owner can just slap up an addition by themselves. There are a lot of rules and regulations that need to be followed. If you do build without permission, the town or city can force you to demolish the entire addition. Another thing to consider is that you would also have an increased tax liability. When the construction is complete, the tax adjuster will reappraise your home, and the amount of taxes could jump significantly depending on the extent of the renovation.

So the bottom line is how much you are willing to spend to make your home larger. It may be more feasible to make better usage of your existing space, before making the leap.


Do I need to derate wire ampacity for two or more sets of wires in the same raceway for subpanel wiring?

Your final wire size selection for the ungrounded conductors was exactly right at #2 copper. Your neutrals, however, could have been much smaller. You are allowed to calculate the total unbalanced load and in turn size the neutral accordingly.
You still must apply the ambient temperature derating factor and you are required to at least match the size of the grounding conductor. For example, if your total calculated unbalanced load on the neutral was 25 amps and the ambient temperature was negligible, the ampacity table would allow for only a #10 AWG wire to carryn the neutral current, but because the neutral cannot be smaller than the grounding conductor you would still be required to use a #6 AWG. I have the tables underlined in my codebook but don't have it on hand , sorry.
 The minimum size grounding conductor chart chart is in article 250.
Just found this on Mike Holt's website: { The grounded (neutral) service conductor must be sized to carry the maximum unbalanced load in accordance with 220.22 and must not be sized smaller than required by 250.24(B).}


What is causing whistling from shower head (shower stall w/o bathtub)?

If you have hard water and don't have a water softener, the noise could be attributed to water pressure building up because the shower head is clogged or has calcified as a result of the minerals in hard water. Removing the shower head and soaking it in white vinegar can help remove those deposits. While the shower head is off, turn on the cold and hot water to clear out the shower arm of any debris that could have built up. Then, reattach the shower head, turn the shower on and listen again for the sound.
If you still hear the whistling noise, it could be time to have a plumber replace the stem or cartridge in the shower valve, which is what controls the operation of the shower, and the pressure and temperature of the water. It's not uncommon for plumbers to also find unusual items in shower valves, from rocks to screws. Those certainly can contribute to a noisy shower. It could even be an issue with your shower cartridge, such as a loose washer.
It also could be the pressure- balancing valve, which is incorporated with the shower valve and helps regulate pressure and temperature. The pressure balance valve's "mixing" spool can flutter as water passes through it. Turning the valve to hot and then to cold once or twice might help stop the whistling, or fluttering.
The whistling sound also could be attributed to a large volume of water traveling through the bends in your pipes. Replacing the shower head with a low-flow unit could solve your problem. –How to stop a shower from whistling, –www.kentucky.com

Try putting a few screens where the water-saver was, to restrict it somewhat but not like it was when it came from the factory. Sometimes when you totally remove these, the flow gets all wack. Next time try to disassemble the water-saver; remove that little O-ring, but keep that part with the eight or so holes in it, in there. E.g.,

(source)
They sell replacement water-savers. You will probably need to pick and choose which parts of it you install, to preserve good flow.


Ecobee3 not turning on heat, but fan is on

I called Ecobee support and ran through quite a few troubleshooting steps to figure this issue out. It was determined my Ecobee had a blown fuse and they are sending a replacement.


A small amount of a good quality hardwood floor wax should hide those scratches.  I mean like a paste type wax, something that is solid at room temperature.

Furniture polish would hide the scratches, but the oils would make the floor dangerously slippery. So a solid type wax prevents the oily problem.  You may need to warm a small amount of the wax, so that it soaks in.  But test it first on a 1" part of one scratch, to be sure this is the right path, as it could make the scratch darker.  So test the repair on a small section before applying to the entire scratch.

A second option would be to apply the same finish to the scratch that is on the floor in the first place.  To do that you may need to contact the flooring manufacturer, or if it was finished after it was laid, you will need to get that info from the contractor that finished it.


How can I prevent spillage from my bathtub?

You can buy bathtub splash guards such as the ones found here.

You should be able to find similar ones at your local hardware store. Most versions install in seconds, using easy peel and stick adhesive backings. No tools, no mess, and usually no waiting for caulks and/or glues to dry.


Multiple circuits in the same conduit to outbuildings

Feeding three different uses with three different circuits to the same building is precisely what is not allowed. The fact that they go to different places does help.  The issue is whether that gazebo circuit is allowed to stop at the shed on the way to the gazebo, since now you have a segment with two redundant circuits.

Actually, you can have more than one circuit feeding an outbuilding if it has different purposes or operating restrictions; or it has different voltages; and several other exceptions described in NEC 225.30.  You are welcome to contrive these.

For instance, the pool pump can have a switch in your house to turn it on and off.  Now, that is a different characteristic as per NEC 225.30D.
Gazebo lighting could also have a switch in your house, or an "auto-turn-on-after-dark" switch in your house leaving on-demand control out at the gazebo. - another different characteristic.
You could run a multi-wire branch circuit, which is a method for getting 2 circuits for the price of one (well one additional wire).  Under 225.30, a multi-wire branch circuit counts as one circuit.  (however your inspector may say it counts as a 120V circuit, so it'll be your only one if so.)  For instance you could have one leg feeding the shed, and the other the gazebo.  In this case be careful about GFCI protection - putting GFCI on a MWBC is hard. Easier to put GFCI protection on each leg of the MWBC after they split.
The pool pump (or shed) could have a different voltage, i.e. 240V because of specialized equipment it may have.  A pure-240V circuit (no neutral) is different than a MWBC.


How can I soundproof my bedroom walls as cost effectively as possible?

Not sure what a fortune is and how much you are willing to do yourself.

demo drywall on walls - free
buy Quiet Batt insulation - $2 a foot or cheaper-  pack the wall cavity to the max with insulation.   If you want cheaper insulation I think rock wool is your best bet.  And I would sandwich it in.
Redrywall.  OK - Here is the big expense.  Quietrock (Lowes) works well.  It is $40-50 a sheet so that might set you back $300.  You could also double drywall - more work but less material cost.
Mud and tape - don't know of any mud and tape that is designed for soundproofing.
There is soundproofing paint.  It helps but I am not sure how well you would notice a difference when the sounds are coming from so close.  This would be another $100.
There are soundproofing grids you can buy for your wall - some with ok designs.  These are really expensive and really out of the realm of your question.

So if you can do everything yourself you are looking at $200-600.  Another $150-200 to have someone do it for you.  Also if there are drain pipes in the walls then you will never get the full effect of the soundproofing since the 3 inches of material will probably be reduced to 1 inch or less.


Light fixture wiring - black to black, or white to black?

An Edison bulb has a metal "tip" that is totally inaccessible once you start screwing it in.  It does not make contact with the socket until it's screwed all the way in.
It also has an outer metal threaded screw base, which is easily touched while screwing it in.  It makes contact with the sockets "shell" immediately and continuously while screwing it in.
The socket's shell is attached to the white wire.  If you connect that to neutral, then touching a bulb's socket while screwing it in will be harmless unless there's a wiring fault.
Of course if  you connect the socket shell to hot, then if you forgot to turn the switch off, you can get nailed by your finger touching the shell as you screw it in.


This isn't an electronics design question so you're on the wrong site. We'll move it to https://diy.stackexchange.com and delete this.

To answer your question:

The guys in the photo-forensics lab say that someone has pushed some blue insulation from a seven-strand neutral wire onto the uninsulated solid earth wire.


Resetting fence posts in very wet conditions

Are you in the Twin Cities? We have lots of clay here. Clay never really dries out ;)

Looking at the concrete, notice how it's flared at the top, this is a nice 'handle' for the frost to grab on to and push up. Ideally, your flare would be the complete opposite...wide at the base of the hole, narrow at the top.

If it's really heavy clay, you may want to forgo concrete completely and instead use compacted crushed rock.

If you stick with concrete, be sure to dig deeper than you need to and put gravel at the bottom of the hole for drainage before putting in the post and concerete. Also be sure to get at least a good 2' of the post into the ground.


How much clearance does my furnace intake need?

To keep things simple, just maintain at least the cross-sectional flow area that the louvered vent provides. Let's say it's 12x24". That gives you a square area of 288in^2. We'll disregard the louvres for this example.

Example 1: A box in front of the vent

Plan (top-down) view:

-------###############-------
|                           |
|   ---------------------   |
|   |                   |   |
|   |                   |   |
|   |                   |   |
|   |                   |   |
|   ---------------------   |
|                           |
|                           |

If you were to place a box-shaped object in front of the vent, you'd take the length of it, plus twice the height (it has two sides around which air can flow), and divide that sum into 288. For example, say you place a box that's 24" high by 36" wide, you'd calculate like so:

288 / (24 + 24 + 36) = 288 / 84 = 4.43

This tells us that, in order to maintain roughly the same flow as you have now through that vent, you'd need to keep your box 4.43 inches away from the wall.

Example 2: Full-width cabinet front of the vent

Plan (top-down) view:

-------###############-------
|                           |
|---------------------------|
||                         ||
||                         ||
||                         ||
|---------------------------|
|                           |
|                           |

In the case where your obstruction extends tight to the sidewalls, you'd simply calculate the length and width of the opening at the top of the obstruction, between it and the wall. Say your hallway is 32" wide, you'd calculate like so:

288 / 32 = 9

This tells us that you should leave 9" of space behind your cabinet (or whatever).

Caveats

Now, this is all a bit oversimplified as the furnace ideally draws from down low, near the floor, to scavenge the coolest air available. If you move your flow up hear the ceiling, you reduce some efficiency of the system, or at least some of the mixing effect of the system.

We're also disregarding the additional complexity of the airflow path, which creates some resistance. By adding a bit to our calculated distances we can reduce flow loss from bends in the flow to negligible amounts.

If your box-shaped thing has legs, leaving open flow below, be sure to include this area in any calculations.


T&P drain line needs to be outside of the house?

I just double checked my state rules ,,, all over pressure / temp valves must vent/ exhaust outside a habitual space. If inside the house it needs to go out of the living space. in the garage I think it said 6" above the slab maybe 6' but it was allowed to vent on the slab.


Can I use aluminum or plastic sheeting between decking and joists to waterproof under a deck?

Site-built deck drainage

Here is an article in Fine-homebuilding on site-built deck drainage.

In this article they use EPDM rubber roofing material.

I wouldn't hesitate to use this or creative alternatives, but I wouldn't consider this as a "waterproof/roof" system. I would consider it rain-proof where it diverts rain and rain-runoff from underneath the deck.

Retail deck drainage

There are products available that are designed for this as well. Like Timbertech Dryspace for example.

My opinion

Using either a site-built or retail product, I still wouldn't store anything under there that would be ruined from getting a little bit of moisture now and then.

If you want a real waterproof roof, then build it as a code-approved roof with code-approved materials installed how they were intended to be installed.

Issues

One potential issue I can think of right off the bat is that dirt and debris will collect in there, so do you have a plan on cleaning this out? You will need access from time to time to at least stick a hose at the highest part to rinse it out.

Another potential issue is that this would limit the airflow and potentially increase the humidity between the decking and drainage material. This could contribute to things like cupping or premature finish failure on wood decking.

Real Roof (info as requested in comments)

60mil vinyl can be considered an approved roofing surface. You would use something like this if you are not putting another surface over the deck.

Another roofing option (if you wanted to add wood planks) would be to do flat roof (i prefer a torch-down roof): then build panels out of your deck surface, or attach the decking to sleepers (see image below), or use wood tiles


Is there a keyed switch that can be used to power off a subpanel?

Lockout
You could use a "lockout". A lockout is a device used by Electricians, that allows them to lock breakers in the off position. When an Electrician is working on a circuit, they will turn the breaker off, place the lockout on the breaker, place a padlock and a name tag through the lockout lock hole. This prevents others from accidentally energizing the circuit, while the Electrician is working. In most places, the Electrician is the only person with a key to the lock, and the key is kept on them at all times.

Disconnect
An "electrical disconnect" or "safety switch" is a more permanent solution. They are available in fusible and non-fusible varieties, with a wide range of current ratings. They usually have the ability to be locked in the off position, using a common padlock.

You'll wire it up to interrupt the ungrounded conductors of the feeder to the panel.

Turn off the breaker in the service equipment panel that feeds the panel in the garage.
Disconnect the feeder wires from the panel in the garage.
Mount the disconnect near the panel in the garage.
Connect the ungrounded conductors from the feeder to the line side terminals in the disconnect.
Using a length of the same gauge cable as the feeder, connect the ungrounded conductors to the load side terminals of the disconnect.
Using appropriately sized twist-on wire connectors, other approved means, or terminals in the disconnect if they're available. Splice together the grounded and grounding conductors of the feeder and the short length of cable.
Terminate the other end of the short length of cable in panel.

Now when you move the disconnect into the off position, the panel in the garage should be dead. You can then lock the disconnect door closed, and the handle in the off position.


What is this furniture part, and where can I find one?

That is a barrel nut and bolt. You can find them at most hardware stores, but they are a specialty item, so they may not have the exact ones you need.

You need to take those with you to a hardware store or get the model information of the furniture to identify the size, or calipers to get accurate measurements. I recommend starting by trying to find the make and model of the furniture to contact their customer service.


Do not drill the holes bigger in the wood parts. The idea with carriage bolts is that you pound them in with a hammer so that the square part under the head of the bolt is forced down into the tight hole in the wood. This provides the hold to a) keep the bolt in place during assembly and b) to keep the bolt from turning while using a wrench or socket to tighten the nut from the end of the bolt.

Carriage bolts are designed so that on one side of an assembly that there are no protruding bits for things to catch on. The rounded head will provide that as opposed to there being a hex or square head sticking out. In your case with a chair kit the general idea is that the heads of the carriage bolts should face toward the side of the chair where the user will be. As such the threaded bolt ends will want to be down underneath or toward a generally non used surface of the chair.


Power issues in out-building sub panel - What's the best way to repair?

By having zero volts across the main it appears that 1 leg is open and the tools are back feeding so it appears there is 120v to ground on both.
the zero was a clue. With no load the 240 v can be there there is probably moisture in the pipe and no load provided a path much like phantom voltage there is voltage but no current.
No load and a path for voltage may be how the 240 is being measured with no load.
I have seen wires blow open in conduit in lumber and plywood mills more than I thought possible and the other conductors are usually damaged.
In some cases I will pull the conductor that is damaged and use it to get a location to dig, in others I use a scanner as long as there is not a reenforced concrete pad the scanner may work but having the damaged conductor also gets us close.
Depending on cable size I may drop a box at the location and then repair the conductors and pull the wire to repair the open leg.
At this point it is obvious the 70v leg is damaged but there may be insulation damage and even conductor damage on the other leg.
To tell at the feeder which one is damaged I would use an amp clamp and see which is loaded and the other may just show leakage.
If they are both pulling 10 amps let’s say change the load reduce the evens or odds the leakage usually remains somewhat constant but adding or reducing the load on the good conductor will make it easy to identify at the feeder breaker.
The conductor that is damaged should be disconnected at the feeder breaker until it can be repaired as you are paying for the leakage current and it will do more damage if not disconnected.


Which bathtubs do not require installation?

I've never heard of such a thing, and I can think of a number of reasons why:

Bathtubs are heavy. Even worse, water is heavy. A standard bathtub holds about 40 gallons of water, which is over 300 pounds. Add the weight of the bathtub itself, and you may cause damage to whatever it's sitting on.
Showers these days are designed to not use a lot of water (about 2 gallons a minute). Take off the shower head and you'll get more, but it's still going to take a while to fill that bathtub. And, when you're done filling, the water is likely to have cooled off.
How big a water heater does your apartment have? Big enough for a 10 minute shower isn't big enough for a bathtub.
Where would you put the bathtub, both during and after use? Unless your shower is enormous, or you have a really big bathroom, it's tough to imagine how it would fit.

Add all these together, and the many ways a customer could damage his home and then blame the manufacturer, and it would be tough to make money selling standardized portable bathtubs.


Is rigid foam on rim board in basement worth doing if walls aren't insulated?

Nothing below grade needs to be insulated in most regions.  If you are in Canada or very north part of the world insulating the whole wall is advised but not for those below the border.

I have done a lot of basements.  I insulate walls a foot below grade - to create a pure stop of airflow down.

With no wall we stuff as much rockwool in the rim joists as it will hold and sometimes throw a strap or two in to help.  Two sheets of rockwool is the norm (depth-wise).  You will notice a dramatic difference within a day.  Spray foam will provide the same results (maybe slightly better) but if I need to move an electrical/plumbing/gas line it is very easy to move the rockwool comparatively.


What is the best technique for using a drill to insert screws?

I'm not an authority, but start with this:

Keep the bit inline with the screw's direction of penetration.  Most times I see newbies struggle with that.  If the drill/chuck is cocked in relation to the axis of the screw, it creates all kinds of trouble.
Firmly push inward, not letting the bit slip back out of the screwhead.
Bits are consumable.  They don't last forever.  Are you trying to use a bit that's too worn?  Once a bit has slipped badly even a few times, it's probably toast.
Slower, steady power is your general best bet, the only exception being when you need a BURST of torque, whereby you time your pushing/pressure effort with a burst of speed on the drill.  But that's seldom needed, and you'd still use the low range.


2011 code has nothing on the subject. However it is clear the purpose of the rules therein is to keep you from draping cords across sinks.  That seems like a very good idea.

Code requires outlets anywhere there's a 12" or wider section of countertop - because that space will inevitably draw a coffeemaker or George Foreman.  It's possible the inspector is seeing an outlet over a space less than 12" wide, and saying "Well, you'll never put anything there, you'll end up draping cords across the sink to another place (which might be shy of outlets)."

Code also requires a GFCI for any countertop outlet (210.8a6), and near any sink anywhere (210.8a7).  That means he definitely does NOT mean to have an unprotected outlet there.  If an outlet is allowed at all, it must be GFCI protected, whether by GFCI outlet, being daisy-chained from the LOAD terminals of another GFCI outlet, or a GFCI breaker in your service panel.

It's also possible he's telling you "dummy, this outlet feeds from the other one, just daisy chain it off the LOAD terminals of the first GFCI and no need for this one."  But that is merely economy, and the inspector wouldn't have a stake in that.


More information is needed.

Is this a condo or house? What is the general location? United States?

Are the lights controlled from more than one location?

Is that a new switch or what was there before?

From what is visible in the photos, it suggests that there is another box in between the switch and lights. In a condo that could even be one of the counter plugs where it then goes to the cabinet lights.

Most important question, what was done since the lights were last working as intended?


How do I wire these dimmer switches? The current wiring is crazy

White wires are your neutral. You don't switch the neutral, you switch the hot, otherwise, contact with an off fixture could electrocute you if you contact a ground. Therefore, the whites are frequently tied together, with the exception of cases where the white is being used for something else, like a switched wire.

For a 3-way switch, you need an extra wire, which I prefer to use the red wire of a 3 conductor cable. It looks like they've done exactly that in your setup. For more details on how 3 way switches are wired, you can review the various diagrams on this site which include many of the possible wiring variations.

Edit2:

Thanks for the picture. That, a nights sleep, and your description of the other side of the 3 way switch narrow down how this could be wired. I was hoping for the best from your previous electrician, but it looks like you got the worst. Someone really didn't know what they were doing in this J-box. Also, that doesn't appear to be a 3 way switch on the right, at least, not yet, which is why it never worked right. Note, unless it's specially designed to work with 2, you should only have 1 dimmer on a 3 way switch configuration. The other side should be a non-dimming 3 way switch.

Here's my assumption: Bundle 1 goes to fixture 1, Bundle 2 goes to fixture 2, and bundle 3 goes to the other 3 way switch. It looks like all the line wires are in the fixtures themselves (otherwise, you'd have at least one more bundle coming into this J-box).

What I'm not going to assume is that white is actually white in bundles 1 and 2. Most likely it is because of how the current switches are wired, you want to test this to be sure. With the power off and the old switches disconnected, check for continuity between each of the wires in bundles 1 and 2 to ground (use bundle 1's ground for your tests). And with the power temporarily turned on (be careful with exposed live wires), make sure the current only appears between ground and black. If any of the wires are mis-colored, put some tape on the end and label it, and go by the label, not the color, in the below instructions.

Here's what you should do to clean up the mess:

Step 1: Tie all the grounds together, including all 3 bundles and both switches that you replace. Use a short piece of exposed copper to connect the switches if they don't have their own wires. Make sure the wire nut is large enough for all 5 wires. If you can't find a ground on bundle 2, I would double check fixture 2 to make sure it's grounded, and if so, the ground from bundle 1 is all you have to rely on for everything else.

Step 2: Wire up switch 1 like normal, black and white to the two screws on the switch. Nothing connecting the other side is necessary if the above tests worked. If the white from bundle 1 is faulty, connecting to the white in bundle 2 will work, but you really want to find the problem and fix it.

Step 3: Your 3 way switch appears to be variation 1 on the above site, with the line coming to the fixture itself, bundle 2 is the left line in the diagram, and bundle 3 is the right wire in the diagram. The whites from bundle 2 and 3 are tied together and to nothing else (unless a connection to switch 1 is needed). The black from bundle 2 connects to the typically white screw of switch 2. The red and black from bundle 3 connect to the two separate black screws on switch 2, but it doesn't mater which is which at this point. Double check the other end of the 3 way switch to be sure that the white is on the correct screw.

Step 4: Temporarily check your work with the power on. If you don't like the direction of the 3 way switches (I prefer both switches being down as "off"), you can just swap the red and black on either switch to reverse them.

Tip: if the dimmers are large, and the push in connections on the back have an adjustable clamp that closes when you turn the screw, then use the push in connections on the back of the 3 way switch to reduce the risk of a short on the side.

Standard warning: while working with electrical, always have the power off unless you are doing a quick test. Before doing any tests, make sure no wires are shorted with any others. And during any quick tests, make sure you don't touch those wires with anything other than the voltage tester.


Is this insulation supposed to be there?

This is sometimes rock wool insulation. Even if not, fiberglass insulation is non-flammable, as long as no vapor barrier is used with it.

Installation of fireplace doors and fireplace inserts usually includes such insulation.


If the switches have lost their distinct snap into position feel or if you heard a sparking or sizzling sound when you turned the switch on or off it is highly likely that it is time to replace the switch with a new one.


That pipe is already left open and surely not active or charged. Cutting it again will not be a problem, since it is no more than cutting it again slightly lower than what it is already.
If you want to go the safest route, since the floor is being redone anyway, remove enough of the existing floor to cut it below the existing floor to place a self sealing cap over it like Sharkbite (r) or similar brands. Please note, to do this the cut needs to be cleanly done, in order for the seal to be effective.


Can a bathroom fan be exhausted through existing gable vent?

I wouldn't exhaust the bathroom through the gable vent.

First off, you'll be reducing the size of the gable vent. Whatever area you block with the exhaust duct, is a reduction in the area of the gable vent.

Secondly. Depending on how the attic ventilation is designed, the hot moist air exhausted from the duct, could be drawn back into the attic through the gable vent.


Metal or PVC Conduit in Metal Outbuilding?

I like EMT metal conduit.  It means you don't need to run ground wires, and it's just not a fire risk at all.  Also the metal boxes are dirt cheap!

Toolwise, you need a hacksaw and a wire stripper to deburr the inside of the conduit. A conduit bender is also handy.


Should I fill this gap between floor boards and wall?

It will do no harm to fill the gap. You may find that there are vermin proof/resistant foams on the market. If you use an aerosol dispensed foam, you can place the tip of the dispensing straw to stick a little onto a vertical surface below the floor and let that cure. Then using the cured foam as a shelf to hold the next application of foam to fill the remaining gap.
It will help reduce drafts too.


Electric water heater on water off 6 months will water heater be ok?

Not having fresh water flowing through it won't cause any particular harm since the water will deposit all of its salts/metals early on and just sit the rest of the time, so long as water stays in the system.  However the right thing to do since the dwelling will be unoccupied (the only reason it's allowable to disconnect water service) would be to turn off the unit (use the breaker or fuse panel to do this) since leaving it on risks that the water will drain somehow (overpressure valve opens, etc) resulting in a fire hazard. Even better, turn off and then drain the unit, which should be a simple process for modern installations since a drain is nearby (per code) and the water heater will have an easy to use drain spigot.


Should Neutral and Earth be bonded at the meter instead of in the main panel(s) with tandem 200A main panels

In my neck of the woods (Pacific NW) we call that a "class 320" service:  A single meter feeding 2 main panels. Because both panels are considered main panels, neutral and ground need to be bonded together. In the meter panel, in most cases, the neutral is already bonded to the can just by how the lugs are attached. I recently installed a class 320 service on my son's house that did have a "service bypass" that would enable the power company to swap a meter without interrupting service, but I don't think that is what you have.  A pic would help.

2020 code is requiring the ability to cut off power to a structure externally.   That may have been required locally for some reason back in 2014...local codes vary.


What type of paint and how many coats should be used to paint a radiator?

If we're talking a cast iron radiator, it's a good process.

First you need to remove the old finish. You can get it sandblasted, or you can get in there with some sandpaper for a few hours. A wire wheel on an angle grinder can get out a good bit, or you might have luck with chemicals to strip them. If you do use chemicals, you'll have to wait for them to totally dry, then sand the bare metal of the radiator just to make 100% sure all of the residue is gone and the surface is rough enough.

Next, you'll want to clean with a deglosser, to make sure all the sanding residue is gone, along with any other junk in there. The paint won't bond so well without it, and with something that expands and contracts as much as a heater.. you want to make sure it's thoroughly clean.

Now it's time to protect your walls and floors. Get a drop cloth, cut a slit in it and slide it over the unit. Tape it to the walls, tape it to the floor, and tape up as much of the slit you made as you can.

You'll then need to prime it, and you'll have to chose the primer based on the paint you end up with.

Time for paint. Oil based paint should hold up, but you'll probably have better luck with spray enamel paint. Use many thin coats rather than few thick coats. Make sure to read the specs on whatever paint you decide on, make sure it can withstand up to 220 degrees - Just to be safe.

Alternatively, maybe you can look into building a radiator cover.


What is the standard height of a frameless shower door handle?

Standard knob and lever heights for interior doors is 36" above finished floor, If the handle for your shower is 35" from the bottom of the shower door, and there is a curb under the door, that would put the handle about 39-42" above the bathroom floor. Already is higher than standard.

No there is no set rule for handle heights of shower doors that I know of. They are usually set in the center of the panel, which should be about where yours is if the door is the standard 6' height for frameless doors. This is based on observations while shower doors are being measured for by the installers over the years. Nothing was ever specified for the height, just handle style.