Pros and cons of self stick vs adhesive kitchen vinyl floor tiles

I have seen self stick tile not lasting as long as it should. Tile with adhesive is the way to go if you want durability.


How to install 230V Light with Light-activated-resistor?

This leaflet just contains some general information concerning the product. The only thing relevant to installation is in point 5 (labeled 五).

Basically, the user is told to connect what are literally labeled as the "fire wire" and "null wire" (火线 and 零线) -which I interpret as respectively the red and the black wires- to an AC supply of 180 to 250V, 50 to 60Hz frequency, where the device should happily consume less than 60W of power.

This agrees quite well with what is on the bottom of the box.

This device does not need an earth connection, since the enclosure is plastic. Earthing is used when the container is metal, and the user could receive a shock if a live wire was touching the interior.

In addition, please note the timing seems to be able to be graduated, from 50 +/- 20 seconds.


Central air conditioner grounding wire size difference

Using a larger ground conductor is fine. Using a smaller gauge wire for grounding was common in the past, but not correct anymore. The grounding conductor should be at least as large as the other conductors.


Looking for combination of temperature sensor and thermostat - any hints?

There are radiator valves that are thermostatically controlled that need no batteries or outside input power. They do a pretty good job of controlling the temperature of a room.Try typing "Danfoss valves" in any search engine to investigate if valves like this would suit your needs. I should ask if your heating system is hot water or steam. The valves and controller are the same for both systems unless you have an old 1 pipe steam system, The temperature sensor usually mounts on the valve it is controlling. However they have some sensors that can be mounted a few feet away.


How can I attach a shelf to a tile wall in a repairable manner?

Depending upon how large the grout lines are I would carefully drill through those with a masonry bit, and then use plastic anchors and fasten shelf brackets with screws. Use enough brackets to support the size shelf you need. Then, if the shelf ever needs to come down the holes in the grout lines can be repaired easily.


Clear rubber hose purpose for pressure washer

As you've figured out, it's the suction tube for the detergent bottle.


Laminating hallway with opposing doorways - how to tackle the last piece/row having undercut the architrave & door frames?

I have just recently tackled the same problem with my own hallway. The solution I did was as follows. I cut a piece so that it would fit the door opening and a little more, so that it will go under the door frame. I have cut this piece so that on one side there is still the laminate "click" side, while the other is naturally cut off (this is piece 2 in the drawing). This way you can attach another laminate piece to this one. Next, I cut a narrow piece of laminate (piece 1) that can click on to piece 2. Finally, I have cut piece 3 so that it will butt against piece 2. Since there is no "click" side there, there is a small gap (if you can cut it accurately enough without leaving a gap, the better). This gap I have filled with wood glue mixed with sawdust from cutting the laminate boards. For my particular laminate it is a very close match to the color of the laminate, plus is it quite a small section (for me it was around an inch). From standing height it is barely noticeable, and can be improving by careful sanding. If you have something better as the filler, than by all means use it.

You can switch between pieces 1 and 3 (in terms of which one will have the "click" side, depending on the rest of you hallway laminate orientation.

For the assembly, piece 2 (or the one it will gone with) should have the "click" partially removed, so that it can be slid from the opposite room, under the door frame and into place, with the a line of glue holding the two pieces together. Then piece 1 can be clicked to place, and piece 3 clicked and glued.

Edit: here are some pictures. First, the glued part. In the picture it looks much worse than in real life (also ignore the lack of skirting board). The glue goes all around the piece since there were some gaps in all directions and as I said, it is barely noticeable from standing height:

Here the opposite side of the doorway, where the piece is clicked. Note that the central part (piece 2) goes well under the door frame:

And finally the entire door frame. Excuse the blurry shot, but I hope it is enough to give you an idea of my installation:

Edit 2: Following the OP's comment, I have an idea about how to put piece 2 in place if you can't slide it from the opposite room. This requires you to not have finished placing the boards in the hallway. You'll need to place some temporary boards up to the door in question, then measure and cut piece 2. Remove the temporary boards and slide piece 2 from the hallway. Then you can continue laying the boards as usual. To connect piece 2 with the real board before it, you still have to slide it out a little (out of the hallway, into the next room), lay the board and slide piece 2 back in. Sounds complicated, but I can't think of another approach.


How to track down a short circuit in attic with pressed metal ceiling?

I use the Greenlee 77M-G tone generator and the Fluke Network Pro 3000 Tone and Probe Kit.


There are staplers meant for wiring that are great for situations where you don't have too much room for a screwdriver or to swing a hammer. The Arrow T25 is one model, but there are other options out there.

Just do a search for Cat5 stapler and you should find lot of options. Make sure you pay attention to the instructions and use the right staples or else you could accidentally cut one or more of the conductors in your cable.

Another method is to staple a zip tie to the joist and then fasten it around the Cat5.


Attach piece of wood to wall, with need to be removed often

French Cleats

Could you use a french cleat? They are commonly used for demountable fixing of items to walls, including quite heavy items.

If necessary, they can be recessed so that they are entirely invisible

They are easily made from wood but you can also purchase aluminium or other metal sections designed for this purpose.

Threaded inserts

You can put a threaded insert into a wooden stud (or into a wall cleat as above). This allows you to use a machine screw (bolt) instead of a wood screw.
A machine screw into a metal insert will stand up to repeated removal and replacement better than a wood screw.

Just one (or two) of these could be inserted into a wall cleat and used to lock the other cleat into position.

Alternatively, if you have wooden studs in convenient positions you could use these directly in the stud. It might be a little fiddly to align everything when reattaching your item to the wall.

Some inserts are hammered in, some screwed in using a hex drive (allen key).
You need to drill the correct sized hole to receive the insert.


Whatzit? Name this dryer or washer thing-a-ma-bob

That may very well be a washer tub restraint device. The tub in a washer machine is often mounted in a way that takes up vibration during normal operation. During shipping from the factory additional items are added to the washer to restrain motion in the tub to prevent knocking around and/or damage. This cable hook device could be one of those restraint devices.

If a local delivery service brought the washer to your house they very often remove the restraint devices and other shipment items. This could include tapes that hold doors shut, ties that bind up wires, tub restraints.....it could be that the service people didn't extract all devices.


What would cause my line sets to equalize in cooling mode?

Try to find a good heat pump guy and not the "fool" you called before. The problem could be a faulty reversing valve, faulty compressor, refrigerant charge, bad metering valve or piston or any number of other conditions. Most guys just attach hoses and add more refrigerant without looking for the REAL problem. They know very little of what happens or is supposed to happen at any point in the refrigeration cycle. Many of the problems associated with an A/C unit or heat pump can be diagnosed without the use of a set of gauges and a bottle of refrigerant. A real service tech will stop, listen and touch before getting the tool box.
This reminds me of a real life story that I observed many years ago. The tech replaced the compressor, contactor, high and low pressure controls, thermostat and control transformer, each on different calls only to find out that the real problem was a burned out control fuse. True story. And this guy had years of experience.
my 2 cents


What is this row of sandy material in my wall?

Classic, typical termite tunnel. Brush and scrape it away and if you don't see live termites inside, then you don't have to do anything. Follow the tunnel up from the earth and down to see if there is any damage to drywall or structural members. Be careful in probing that you don't damage a water pipe, a drain pipe, or an electrical cable.


I look at those parts, and I think that your broomstick (which might work fine for a broomstick) will probably snap in fairly short order when used with a rake.
A rake handle has much more significant bending forces on it than a broom handle does, in normal use.
If the detachable rake comes with a handle, I would cut that in sections to fit in your backpack, and then I would cut sections of hardwood to be bolted across the joints, pretty much the same length as your handle sections (not shorter pieces) and drill holes to bolt them together with wingnuts. If the handle is hollow, you might be able to use sections of hardwood dowel (or wooden rake handle) inside the hollow handle, but my base assumption is that it might be solid wood itself, so an overlapping bolted series of sticks is my thought.


What's that dripping sound I hear in the attic whenever we turn on the water?

Sounds like a pipe expanding or contracting to me.  When the water runs through the pipes (even the drains), the temperature change causes the pipes to move.  Usually where they are passing through a wood surface, you'll hear an occasional sound, not unlike a drip, that will stop when the pipe reaches it's final temperature.

If the sound coincides with the hot water reaching the fixture (or extra cold water from outside in the winter) then you shouldn't have anything to worry about.


Toilet full valve drips slightly when turning back on

I am with jack here a photo of the leak or a description would be helpful,

at the shutoff valve not the fill valve on the “crapper” itself.
 A leaky shutoff valve the valve stem packing may need a slight tightening, the nut below the handle, give it a 1/4 turn clockwise and see if the drip stops, this is common with older valves. Sometimes the valves need repacking but many times just tighten the packing nut will seal things up and last for years.


Can I drill or notch a 2x2 bottom plate in a flat-stud wall?

Bottom plates typically don't carry any load. You can feel free to drill as needed there. Really, you could remove an entire section of the plate and probably not encounter code violations. Drywall will span gaps of 4-6" without a problem, assuming it's protected from impacts.


The third wire is not connected, either broken somewhere along its path or there's a missing connection in one of the junction box leading to the outlet.

If there's multiple connection boxes from the panel to the outlet, you can test at each to figure where the problem is. Either a nut came loose somewhere or a wire was cut/torn.

The question doesn't make it clear whether you are in a location with 240 and ground, or 240 with neutral and ground, but the answer remains the same, the third wire is disconnected somewhere.


Disconnect the old run then hook up the new one
Since we're dealing with EVSE (a Tesla charger) here, we need to provide a dedicated branch circuit for that EVSE as per NEC 625.40:

625.40 Electric Vehicle Branch Circuit. Each outlet installed
for the purpose of charging electric vehicles shall be supplied
by an individual branch circuit. Each circuit shall have no other
outlets.

As a result, you'll need to disconnect the old wires from the breaker you plan to use and cap them off inside the breaker box, then attach your new homerun to the breaker in question.


The legs you have may or may not provide the stability that you seek.  Hard to say.  The legs you link to probably would work fine for most purposes.  However, a skirt between the legs would improve the stability a good deal.  You can look at getting your own table skirt and legs using the calculator/chooser at Osborne Wood products here:  https://www.osbornewood.com/Skirt.aspx

We created a large counter height combination table and island using two Ikea wood countertops (round edges ripped off lengthwise, and halves mated together with pocket screws), two Ikea base cabinets and the 2 legs and matching skirts from Osborne.  It turned out really good and has ample stability.


It could be a variety of things, but there's no way to be sure without troubleshooting the system.
Thermostat
It could be that the thermostat isn't signalling the A/C unit to start.
Things to check

The indoor blower comes on
The outdoor unit turns on
There's voltage on the A/C signal wire from the thermostat

Control board
The control board in the air handler/furnace could be bad.
Things to check

The indoor blower comes on
The outdoor unit turns on
There's voltage on the A/C signal wire to the A/C unit

Contactor
If the contactor is bad, the A/C unit will get the signal to come on, but the unit will not turn on.
Things to check

The outdoor unit turns on
There's voltage at the normally open contacts of the contactor (T1, T2, T3)

Blower
If the blower in the air handler/furnace is bad, cool air will not be blown throughout the home.
Things to check

The blower in the air handler/furnace comes on
Air flows from the supply ducts

Condenser fan
If the condenser fan isn't working, the system will have difficulty removing heat from the refrigerant.
Things to check

The fan on the outdoor unit (condenser fan) comes on

Compressor
If the compressor in the condensing unit is bad, the system will not move refrigerant through the system.
Things to check

The refrigerant lines are different temperatures
The compressor turns on (may have to touch the unit to tell)

Restricted air
If air isn't moving through the system properly, it won't work well.
Things to check

Air is being moved by condenser fan
Condensing unit coils look clean and free of debris
Air handler/furnace filter(s) are clean
Air is flowing from the supply ducts
Evaporator coils are clean and free of dust and ice

Refrigerant level
If there's not the correct amount of refrigerant in the system, it will not function properly.
Things to check

Refrigerant lines are at the proper operating temperature (requires knowing the operating temperature)
Operating pressure of the refrigerant lines (requires a set of gauges)


Would a replacement condenser capacitor of differing specs reduce cooling?

I would not run it like that! the 50/7.5 is making the fan run great because that is the correct number it's calling for. putting 50 on a 35 compressor will overload it and potentially cause a bigger issue. they sell universal capacitors that are perfect for situations like this.


Thermostatic mixing valve that holds water temperature at 120°F / 50°C

A thermostatic mixing valve is the same device as a thermostatic shower, the mechanism is the same but the body & fittings different.

So, have you tried adjusting the existing valve? Is there any chance it has got some debris in it causing it to fluctuate. Is the cold supply to the mixing valve restricted?

It may be a faulty valve which needs replacement.


How can I open this smoke detector to change the battery?

It appears to have a hinge on one side and a locking tab opposite. Press it in the direction of the arrow until it moves, then swing the cover downward.

Manual


Is it possible to drive led strips using a halogen driver?

Your power supply doesn't like the LEDs.  That's not a surprise. Either

because there isn't enough current flowing (the halogen acted as a dummy resistor to create some load), in which case more load will cure the problem.  Or
the power supply needs to be able to leak current in both directions (AC) through the light. Halogens can do that, LEDs cannot.  Try reversing the polarity on some of your LED strips.  If they still light and it solves the problem, that's actually bad news - it means this power supply is outputting AC and it's not fit for LED strips. (not least it will make them shimmer at 60Hz, which will be very noticeable and much worse than 120Hz shimmer from obsolete fluorescents).  It's time to replace this power supply with a DC supply, that will both work with LEDs with no shimmer whatsoever, and also support halogens.


What type of screws and drill bits should I use to mount a mantel over faux stone?

A regular high-speed steel bit will probably cut through the soft faux stone just fine, though it'll dull the bit fairly rapidly. If you have just a few holes to drill I'd go that route.

Otherwise, a masonry bit will also work until you reach the wood. At that point you'd switch to a high-speed steel bit and try not to bung it up on the way through the stone--maybe insert the bit fully before you start spinning it.

The holes in the stone should be the size of the screw thread diameter to prevent undue damage to the face of the stone. The pilot holes in the wood should be slightly smaller than the screw shank.

You want screws that are intended for structural use. Black oxide drywall screws are too brittle. Use gold construction screws or something specifically described as "structural" which are of suitable size and length. Unless your mantel is obscenely heavy, just about any screw #8 and up should do fine.


I found an electrical outlet hidden behind wood paneling. Do I need to cut the paneling and remove the outlet?

It's definitely a code violation, boxes have to be accessible without cutting the wall finish - paneling in this case.
The main problem with a buried junction box is that there's no way to know that there's a splice there when troubleshooting and there's no way to inspect the work inside.  Splices are common failure points and if the splice goes bad, it's a real pain to find and fix.  And a bad splice can definitely heat up, so it's a fire hazard.
Think about this:  even if inaccessible junction boxes were code compliant, would you trust those boxes in your wall?  I personally wouldn't trust either, not the one that's dangling nor the one that's attached to the stud.  None of the cables are strapped down, and I don't see any clamps where the cables enter the boxes.  Who knows what kind of dumpster fire might be inside those boxes.
So I'd say just bite the bullet and fix it.  If I am following the photos, you have three choices:

Eliminate the dangling box - replace the cable that feeds these with one long enough to land right in the bottom receptacle box.  (This could be a lot of work.)

Use a NM splice repair kit.  These do appear code compliant, they have a listing for repairs and don't have to be accessible.  Unfortunately they are junky and make an insulation displacement splice and I just don't trust them.

Redo that dangling box so it's accessible.

So I'd probably be going with that last option, it is not much work.  You'd just remove that dangling box, set a box on the stud, and staple down the cable coming down into it.
It looks like there's enough cable to reach a box set at switch height.  Even though it will just wind up with a blank cover, it will look better at switch height than at some random height.  Add a short cable from that box to the receptacle below, also secured properly, splice, button everything up, and hang a picture over the blank cover.


How can I join an exhaust vent and an existing duct that aren't aligned?

You may need a custom fabricated part in that configuration.
Alternatively, how do you feel about the microwave venting vertically? If you sacrifice cabinet space you can use a flexible connector inside the cabinet and may be able to use off the shelf parts


You can connect multiple wires to the same C terminal. The other one is likely going to the outside AC unit.


Is there a proper amount of chainsaw tension

Why yes, there is. Consult the owners manual (in paper or on-line), and it will tell you what that is and how to measure it on your particular saw.

Too tight causes excessive heat and wear.

Too loose can cause the chain to jump off the bar and result in an accident.


Pergola 13x15 floor space what is 2x6 WRC maximum span?

Simpson Strong-Tie just created a pergola designer software last week. You can access it by creating an account at the link below.

Use this as a tool to check your framing sizes and spacing. If you can't select the member size you want, it's because that member size is not strong enough for the spans that you've specified.

It also shows you the connections you need and gives you a detailed report of all the material quantities you need. This is a perfect step to take before your trip to the hardware store.

https://deckplanner.strongtie.com/pergolaplanner/#login


Programmable timer for boiler without touching thermostat

You need a relay, which is a usually part of a timer - but you need a timer which has separate contacts for its power, and the relay contacts, rather than a plug-in type timer that combines those.

This is not an uncommon configuration, but shopping questions are off-topic so you'll have to find one yourself. I wlll make a general comment that "DIN" relays (designed for mounting on a "DIN Rail" as part of industrial control solutions) often appear to be the most reliable form of these, but there are other form factors available.

You could also use a "plug-in timer" connected to a separate relay, but that's more parts than you actually need.

Concern: If you turn off the system completely while you are away, what happens if the temperature drops below freezing? Could be rather messy, which is why most systems are simply set back to 50-55F or 10-12C rather than being turned off, at least in heating season.


Problem plugging surge protected power strip into gfci outlet?

If either the power strips or connected equipment have capacitors between the power conductors and ground, there would be some current to ground through the capacitors. If there are MOVs between power and ground, there could also be some leakage through those. Deterioration of insulation can also result in small intermittent leakage currents to ground before the insulation actually fails and trips the GFI or breaker every time the faulty device is plugged in.


existing circuit box without ground wire

You can if both are supplied from the same panel. This was not legal in the past but current code allows it.


How can I stengthen the durability of my newly installed engineered hardwood floor?

Engineered hardwoord are almost always prefinished.  And the factory aluminum oxide coating is harder than anything you can do at home so there is no reason to re-do the existing coating.


How to get switched and constant power combo on an outlet

You are on the right track. As it comes from the store, the upper and lower sections of standard double outlets are connected by the small tab connecting the brass plates under the screws on either side.

To separate those sections so that one half is constantly on and the other half is switched, break the tab on the hot side of the outlet. This is usually the side with brass screws. The other, neutral side usually has silver screws. You can be sure on modern outlets because the side with the larger slot is the neutral. In your first picture, the neutral is on the right.

Break the tab on the hot side by grasping it with the tip of a needle-nose pliers and flexing front to back until it snaps off. Do not break off the tab on the neutral side (that would be removed only if the two halves were going to be fed by different breakers; not your case).

You should have two hot wires, one always on and one switched. They may both be black or one black and one red, or even one white, but with a black marking. Attach the always on wire to the brass screw next to the half you want always on. The other should be attached to the brass screw next to the half you want switched.

The neutral (white) wire is attached to either screw on the silver side. The remaining tab carries that connection to both halves.


Why is my AC suddenly *heating* my house?

Your heat pump switches between heating and cooling mode through a reversing valve. It sounds like that is where your problem is; it could be that your thermostat has gone bad, or it could be something else.

The outside condensing unit is blowing 68 degrees because the system is pulling heat out of the outside air, and pumping it into the house.


Are some brands of shower valves compatible with others?

I have sort of done this with an American Standard shower valve. There's three parts that need to be adapted. The trim ring is the easiest. Get a piece of aluminum plate, 1/8" is a good size and cut a circle large enough so it fits over the shower valve. Cut the outside so it fits in the hole in the wall. Match it up with the correct plate for the valve and mark it where the mounting screws are. Drill holes in that location just large enough so the mounting screws will go through. Now get the right length/thread screws and mount this plate to the valve. Now take your new trim ring and line it up and and mark where the screws hit the plate you fabricated. Drill and tap the plate you fabricated for the mounting screws for the new trim ring. Your new trim ring will fasten to this mounting plate.
As far as the trim tube that can be held in place by the trim ring. You should be able to silicone the trim tube to the trim ring which should hold it.
As far as the handle that's where you'll probably have some trouble. You'll need to go online and look at installation instructions to see if there's any that have the same mounting method, my guess is you'll strike out on this part.
Easiest thing to do is to look for a universal black shower trim kit. It should come with all the adapters.


Encountered two different kinds of dryer tape (metallic silver plastic vs actual foil)?

The issue with non-metallic tape and conduits for dryer vents is static electricity and the accumulation of lint.
Flammability and emission of toxic fumes in the event of a fire is also a reason for using metallic tape.
Code (in my area) prescribes metallic tape for this reason.
Plastic is not allowed. Also, no screws allowed, again due to lint capture.
(I don't see how plastic tape wrapped around fitted metallic piping/conduits -on the outside- would become electrostaticaly charged, so I appreciate doubts around that argument)
Since metallic tape rips easily, and screwing is not allowed, the piping must be supported very well.
Plastic tape would be stronger. If it is fire rated (FR for conduits) then perhaps it could be allowed.


Nope, you blew it. There is no way to save this.
Your only option is to totally redo the job with the correct wires.  You'll need a third 4/0 neutral (well, it has to match the 2 hots) and a #2 insulated aluminum ground wire.  Sorry!
This didn't work because you tried to "seat of the pants" this job.  You didn't do anywhere near sufficient research before you dove in.  And now you're paying the tuition for learning "the hard way".  Of course here you are, so that's a major turn in the right direction.
Now listen to what we say.  We're NOT interested in wasting your money, much the opposite. We'll save you money.
Dirt does not work as a conductor
What you did was drive ground rods.   Even though you know grounds are important, you didn't run a ground wire because you figured "hey, there are ground rods".
And then, you didn't run a netural because you ate of the fruit of the Tree of Knowledge (by seeing the inside of a main panel's neutrals connected to grounds)... and ever since, you have believed they are the same thing.   So you figured "took care of ground, that handles neutral".
Actually, safety ground only carries current during fault conditions. However neutral the regular everyday current return.   The two are tied together exactly one place in the entire system - at the main breaker.  If other breakers are in that same box, then yeah, they get to be
Now, grounds have 2 reasons.  For lightning, we have ground rods.  For human-generated electricity, which is high current but very low voltage (compared to lightning), we have ground wires.
Dirt, you see, isn't a very good conductor at all. And driving it 8 feet into the ground doesn't make it any better of a conductor. Your scheme relies on using the dirt as the normal current return.  And you can see for yourself, this happens when you have a defective neutral.  That's why it's displaying "lost neutral" behavior.
I need to save this, and I'm willing to violate Code
I'm very reluctant to advise this, because this was a huge, forehead-slapping blunder - which tells me there are dozens of other dangerous blunders in your work.  If you really want to "turn over a new leaf" and get serious about hitting the how-to books and actually learn what you're doing, that's awesome. You're in the right place.  I'll touch on your available options from here, but you really need to learn way more than we can hand-hold you through in this Q&A format.
*And you should note, getting this stuff right on a farm is important, because animals can detect and really do not like stray current. Generally grounding on a farm must be pristine, or you'll have the same effects as having predators nearby - the animals will be stressed, and won't grow or behave properly.
"Yeah, but I gotta make this work".   OK, you'll need to downgrade to 120V-only, and convert one of your hot wires into the neutral.  This will still be a Code violation because you need to have separate neutral and ground WIRES. But if you talk to you local licensing authority, they may give you a waiver to

wire it on the 1980s rules which allow you to bond them.  It's dangerous because if the neutral breaks, it can electrify all your grounds.   That's why it was outlawed.

Or, you could fit a GFCI type breaker at the supply end (shop) - however large GFCIs are 2-pole, expensive, and limited to 60A (50A for HOMeline).  And you'll be wasting most of the wire capacity.

I need to save this cable run, and follow Code, and support 240V
Your best bet in this case is to fit a supply transformer which provides isolation.  The isolated secondary allows you to make the barn an entire service of its own, deriving neutral from the transformer itself, and bonding it to ground locally at the supply.  and locally source its neutral from the transformer and ground from the rods.  Transformers are not cheap, and you'll have to consider that versus the cost of re-running the wire.
This is overhead line, though.  It's 2 insulated wires + bare, just like the service.
No, not like the service.  On the service wires, bare was neutral, which the power company can do, but you can't for reasons discussed above.
In that case you'll need to re-wire 120V it like my cottage:  Bare is safety ground, one wire is neutral and the other is hot.


I have used all three products. The bondo is the exact same thing as the Miniwax product, with the exception of the color. The cream hardener is the same the smell is the same, the handling properties is exactly the same. The painters in the high end company I used to work for used bondo in the appropriate places. As in not large areas, but for screw holes and perhaps a knot hole but no bigger.

The Dap product is good but you will waste a lot since it dries out incredibly fast. You MUST keep the top on at all times. Keep the lid between the fingers, hinge it back, take a dip of the filler, place it back, and hope you still use it before it dries. It will dry fast on the knife as well, so keep scraping it off as you go or your filling will take a lot of sanding. Personally, I prefer not to use it, although for small projects and availability I have used it recently. Neither the Dap, Miniwax or Bondo is easy to sand.

If all your repairs are small, the bondo will work very well for  you. If the repairs are large, say bigger than a quarter, the wood will move and crack around practically any repair you make. With any product you use. You may be able to go a little larger than that, but it depends on the siding and how the wood is cut, as in flat sawn, quarter sawn or rift sawn, but that is another lesson.

7/8/2016 Edit

The picture tells another story, it helped a ton. You do not need filler, except for the knot hole in the second picture. Either product will work there, otherwise the wood needs only to be properly prepped for painting. Resetting the nails that have popped out a bit and maybe filling those with with an exterior grade filler. If they were just set flush and painted over them has been the norm for ages.

The finish is cracked due to the expansion and contraction of the seasonal changes. That is the biggest problem. Getting the surface sound enough to take a latex primer that will give and take with the movement of the siding will be the first step then a latex paint for the finish coats as well. I used to use only oil based primers back in the day, but they are a brittle finish and will crack again just like the finish you have on the siding now. The thing is, no matter what you use, whether it be bondo, or the dap product,or even something as mundane as caulk in the knot hole. make sure the wood is sound and primed before you apply any caulk in any place. Bondo needs bare wood in my opinion to hold, as does the Dap product, If that is used, be sure to prime and paint ASAP.

In my opinion, I would prep the siding for paint, remove all old caulk, prime everything, fill the knot hole with caulk as well as all the joints to the brick, except for the joint at the bottom to the sill ( caulk holds in water as well as hold it out) DO NOT caulk the wood panels together since it looks like you have a board and batten siding detail, and finish paint. Wood needs to move, and it WILL move, caulk will try to hold it in place and cause cracks in the face.

The nails need more attention than I explained at first but it is a matter if the nails that are "proud" are actually holding anything. They either rise off the surface by everything shrinking away from the nail head or the nail point is not in anything substantial and therefore loose and not holding anything. Some of the nails in the siding are overkill, it only take 2 nails in any nailer in the wall to hold siding in place. The third one in the middle gives reason for the siding to split, you are lucky in this case.


How can I repair this unusual joint that leaks?

The typical mid-trap joint of a plastic P-trap does not have a washer. Instead there is a tapered end that fits down into a smooth beveled hole on the opposite piece. The tightening of the nut forces them together to form a tight seal. Your's looks to be this type.

If this joint is leaking for you then there are several probable causes.

There is crud on one or the other side of the tapered part of the joint that keeps it from sealing 100% when the nut is tightened.
The nut may have cracked and is not able to hold the necessary pressure to keep the tapered pieces together.
One or the other of the pipe joint ends may have cracked due to aging or faulty plastic.
The smooth tapered parts on one or both parts of the joint may have been cut or scratched.

It may be possible to stop the leak by a thorough cleaning of the parts. If it is a damaged part then the simplest fix may be to purchase a new set of trap pipe, nuts and washers and just replace the thing. These parts are not at all expensive.


T connection of two Beams To Support 2nd Floor - Post or No Post?

Can it be done? Sure. Is it practical? - you'll need to discuss with the engineer and consider the impact on your budget.
Basically you will need to increase the strength (and usually the size, to get that strength) of the beam that crosses the space so that it can support the beam going down the middle of the extension. Likewise, it will require a sufficiently strong connection to support that load, which may be more complex/expensive than simply supporting it on a post.


weight bearing ability of home made truss

It will support exactly what is on the certificate of compliance, and the person who signed the certificate say it will support.

I know you want a simple number, but such a thing is simply not possible.

You really are asking the question backwards. The question should be, 'I need to support, this stuff, will two pieces of 2" x 12" Pine lumber, with 3/4 ply allow me to do it.'

I can come up with an endless list of things that need to be considered, including, but not limited to: is it,

Indoor or Outdoor?

Fastened together in any way (If yes, how?)

What is holding the truss up?

Spanning any distance?

A dynamic or static load?

It is kind of like asking, 'How much will my wife let me spend on tools if I want a drill and a circular saw?'

If she is the AHJ, you can only spend as much as she allows, sucks, but such is life.


How can I calculate the minimum allowable cross sectional area of a table leg?

The maximum load you can place on a relatively slender column such as a table leg is usually dictated by the buckling strength, rather than the compressive strength. The critical load can be calculated using Euler's formula applied to a fixed-free column:

Pcr= (pi^2*EI)/(f*Le^2)

where E is the modulus of elasticity
      I is the area moment of inertia (w^4/12 in this case)
      Le is the effective length (2L in a fixed-free case)
      f is the safety factor

Naively assuming that the entire load is uniformly distributed, the loadings on each leg are centric (perfectly rigid table top), and the loading on each leg is 1/6th of the total (six-legged tables are statically indeterminate), then each leg is subject to a loading of 654-818 Newtons.

Plugging in a length of 1 m, a safety factor of 10 (lots of assumptions here) and one of the following values of modulus of elasticity:

9 GPa (pine)
11 GPa (oak)

we get a minimum leg width dimension of:

3.9 cm (pine)
3.7 cm (oak)

I'd still stick with your initial plans for 6 cm square legs though. There are a lot of assumptions made for those calculations, including no lateral loading, no deflection of the table top, no knots or imperfections in the wood, and overlooking the fact that wood is anisotropic.

If you're working with a different type of wood, here's a good chart for modulus of elasticity (PDF) (don't forget to convert from MPSI to GPa!)


Even though HVAC is not my specialty (electrical is), I have worked on HVAC controls for Energy Management Systems. As far as I know all heat units have a cool down cycle so when the heat turns off the fan continues to run to softly cool down the unit. This could either be a timing relay or thermo sensor which tells the fan it can shut down.

So that's where I would look. My thinking is that this devices is bad and faulted to a normally on position where the fan is running all the time. As a DIYer I don't think it wise to get into HVAC controls unless you had some experience and are good at following schematics and finding part numbers for replacement. I am suggesting a qualified HVAC mechanic should be doing this repair.

Good luck and stay safe.


How can I make a splice in a 30 amp 240 circuit?

I am a huge fan of steel boxes for things like this for a couple of reasons.  First, they contain arc faults very well, they won't melt or burn through like plastic, and if anything will help the breaker trip if a hot wire comes loose.    Second, they solve a problem the last guy had: finding a proper cover for the box.  Blank cover plates are perfectly common in metal boxes.

I would use 4" x 4" x 2-1/8" (deep) box and lid for the splices. You will also need cable clamps that fit into knockout holes, a bag of enough of those should be $2-ish.

The constraint on box size is cubic inches required space: in each box you need 5 cubic inches plus 7.5 cubic inches per cable. That's 20 cubic inches for a 2-splice and 27.5 for a 3-splice.   That box is 30.3 cubic inches. You can get 7.0 more with a domed cover.

Lastly you will need some #10-32 ground screws and two 8" lengths of #10 bare wire (which can be cut down from spare 10/3 cable, e.g. if you scrap the current middle section).

Position the boxes

One hole in the boxes will be threaded #10-32 for a ground screw. It may be on a little dome.  Otherwise be careful to position the box so the ground screw is usable.  Put an 8" ground pigtail on that screw.

The key is to position junction boxes in locations that are a) properly mounted, b) allow at least 7" of wire ends to enter the box; and c) allow routing of the dryer and supply in a neat and workmanlike manner compatible with any future plan you might have with the use of the space.

You don't need to worry about having that short jumper reach; we can easily replace it.   You also don't need to worry about the garage run reaching either of these box positions (It might be nice, but don't sacrifice a good box placement to get it).

Boxes can be attached to rafters, or you can lay a 4" wide sheet of plywood between rafters if you want a particular position.

Linking

After the junction boxes are mounted, attach the cables via knockout holes and cable clamps. The cable clamps are mandatory, don't just bring it in a hole.

Feel free to reuse any wires in good shape.  Install the run between the boxes.  Then also install the garage run.  If it's not long enough, either replace the whole run or add a third junction box to splice and extend it.

There is nothing wrong with wire-nut splices if they're properly done.  For #10 wire, that means use the big nuts, line them up properly, and twist gorilla-tight.  Then do a very firm pull test (hold nut, pull each wire in turn). There is no way a #10 will come out (if done right).

Nut the junction box's ground wire in with the other ground wires. This is cheap insurance in case a hot wire ever gets loose.


How to build an additional concrete/cinder block wall in basement, where the crawl space and basement meet

First I'd provide a 22" wide by 12" thick footing.

Throw (3) continuous #4 bars in there elevated 3" clear from the bottom surface of the footing. They should be spaced 4 1/2" apart from one another and the group of 3 should be centered in the footing.
Install #4 L shaped dowels (approximately 6"x3'-0") sticking out of the top of the concrete footing at 48" on center . Tie the shorter length of these to the continuous bars mentioned in step 1 to keep them in place when pouring the concrete. Alternate the direction (left and right) of the shorter length of the L.

Then I'd construct a 8" CMU wall.

Place an additional #4 straight bar in the cells the contain the dowels. Footing should already be poured.
Vertical grouting at 48" on center. (grout the cells of the CMU that have the rebar)


How to remove old-work ceiling light fixture box attached to conduit pipes

Removing this box is not a good solution when there are rigid conduits bringing wires into this existing box. The main reason for this is that those wires would still need to terminate into an accessible junction box. On top of that there is just no simple way to adapt the existing rigid conduits for connection to the floating connection box on a recessed fixture.
This may be a doable project IF:

You had access to an attic space above this ceiling
You have the experience and perseverance to work through the serious rework of the existing conduits to some other accessible junction box in the attic.
Keep in mind that the wires in those conduits may very well not be long enough when you go to try create a new junction box - which then entails pulling new wires through those conduits back to their other connection points.

The practical way to deal with this is to keep the existing ceiling boxes and install new surface mount LED fixtures. If you insist on the recessed fixtures then you will need to cut new holes in the ceiling for those fixtures near the existing electrical box and then run new flexible conduit from that existing box over to the recessed fixture floating connection box. If you choose this latter route then just purchase suitable flat white cover plates for the existing electrical box. If the ceiling is a different color the flat cover plate can be painted once installed to coordinate with the ceiling.


Should the support structure for a kitchen island be built on top of tiles?

No.
The tile beneath the pony wall should be removed.

One of the things that a thinset and tile underlayment do is decouple the tile from the subfloor beneath it. By contrast, you explicitly want the pony wall supporting the slab to be coupled to the subfloor.

Then the pony wall should be secured both to the subfloor and the cabinets against it.

The sub-counter (I recommend using MDF) should then be a single piece attached directly to the cabinets and the pony wall.


Light switch only has live wire is this right?

is this right?

No.

Firstly, Blue-Tack is not an acceptable way of insulating a loose wire.

Secondly, the blue wire should be connected to the switch. Otherwise the switch has no purpose.

This is sufficiently strange that I'd turn off the breaker for this circuit, open up the outdoor light, note the connections, disconnect the wires and check continuity back to the blue wire you show in the picture. It may be that things are not wired as you think they are - it is important to be sure before connecting the blue wire and potentially energising some unknown device or fitting. It might be that the blue wire was disconnected because of a fault elsewhere that constitutes a potential safety hazard.

Your photo looks like a typical light-switch in a UK kitchen built or rewired in the last decade or so.

UK lights are usually wired like this:

There should be tape on both ends of the blue wire from the switch to indicate it is live (or switched live) and not neutral. Normally red tape would be used. In your case white tape seems to be used.

Often the blue and brown wires from the switch are connected the other way around at the junction-box (or ceiling rose) for the light. I.e. blue (with tape) to position 2, brown to position 3.


What dehumidification options don't require a lot of electricity?

For an off-grid dehumidification system, you have two or three choices that I can think of. One is to install additional power panels to support the additional load of a "standard-type" electric refrigeration-based dehumidifier, and purchase the most efficient version of that type that you can.

The most likely alternative, which I'm not aware of being commonly available "pre-built" though it's possible that it's out there and I'm not aware of it, is to use solar heat to dry a desiccant, and then switch that desiccant into the airspace to be dried (either by switching airflow over fixed desiccant containers, or by physically moving it.) You would generally want to have at least 2 sets of desiccant, so that one set can be dried while another is absorbing water. This is fairly amenable to DIY implementation. It may need to be quite large to keep up with any significant drying load.

An outlier, which is more likely to be seen in a "commercial" or fairly large-scale offgrid setup would be to use an absorption refrigeration loop driven by solar heat to generate the "cold" for dehumidification (and possibly also for other refrigeration purposes) - the complexity of which typically makes it impractical and/or hazardous for a one-family sized situation. By the time you've gone through all that's required, option 1 looks inexpensive, normally, even though this has the potential to be more efficient in conversion of sun to cold; it's a complex and not very common setup, which can leak, has typically noxious chemistry (ammonia) and needs maintenance.


How to shut off water from city meter with no customer shut-off valve

If you do not have a shutoff below the dirt level or at the house you can pack dry ice around a short section of pipe and that will freeze the water and make a plug .
I have done this with galvanized and copper never tried plastic . Only an inch or 2 being frozen will plug the pipe and not break it. I have had to do this when I had to replace the main shutoff valve.


I have installed similar water heaters and because of the large amp draw you will need a larger service a sub panel alone is not enough. Several homes I was able to use a 30/40 service panel 300 amps continuous / 400 peak I think some call these 320 amp services. In one large all electric home I had to install a 400 amp panel. From either of these you can feed your existing main that would become a sub panel (some rewiring may be needed to isolate the neutral from ground) a 2nd sub could be added to power your water heater and any additional loads for future use. Because of the size of this load it is not as simple as just adding a sub from your existing main panel. The service drop and usually the meter base will also required to be changed. I would first check with the power company to verify your service can be upgraded without you having to purchase a larger transformer. Most customers making this change have been ok with the costs and results but I had 1 customer that after spending +10k or more had the tankless removed because he liked the 80 gallon electric better.


What are my options for venting my oil boiler?

Since you're installing the wood stove new, why bother running it through the existing chimney? Just run new chimney pipe from the stove through the roof (added bonus that the exposed chimney pipe will radiate more heat to the room).


using a U.S. 220v water heater in a foreign country where the line voltage is already 220v

I wouldn't wire this in Europe. As I mentioned in a comment, I used to work for ETL, which is an NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory). ETL evaluates and tests devices for compliance in the markets the manufacturer plans to sell the device in.

Below is an image from the manual. You will notice the C and US next to the ETL circle. This means the product was evaluated and found to be in compliance for Canada and the United States. There would be an E if it was accepted in Europe.

What does this mean? It means that this device has not been evaluated and tested to Europe's standards. Europe's utility may have the voltage you need to run the water heater, but their utility is 50Hz, not 60Hz. This difference in frequency can be bad for internal control transformers and other control devices.

Another problem is that to wire the device in an European panel, you would need to wire L1 of the water heater to line of the panel, and L2 to the neutral of the panel. The control system isn't expecting a grounded L2 connection and that may cause problems. Also, the manual clearly states that the use of a two-pole breaker is required.

I know you were probably trying to save money by using this water heater, but it would be a bad idea to use it. Play it safe and get something designed for use on Europe's utility.


RO reverse osmosis filters need replacing?

Any water filter will need to be replaced with a new one eventually. This is because the filter medium gets clogged from the particles it was designed to capture. It is best to check the replacement schedule according to the filter manufacturer. A good guess is roughly every 3-5 months if the date hasn't been written on the filter case.   There are several filters available and each is specific for according to what needs to be removed from the water. There are also "all-in-one" type filters that can remove several maladies if needed. You can also upgrade your R.O filter by adding-on additional cartridges for additional filters. When the new filter has been installed and checked for leaks allow the system to flush any factory residuals by running the water for several minutes before using the water for ingesting.


How do I keep my house cool especially my terrace during summer?

Im not sure what building codes or home owner's restrictions there may be but this is a common solution:

There are many types of variations that are tied to houses, stand alone, etc. It is basically a set of posts (or house attachments) with a top plate and vertical boards (pressure treated of course) affixed. This example then has cross bracing so there will be less warping over time. The key is to align the tall boards East to West so that as the sun rises its angled rays do not penetrate to the patio. The height and spacing of the vertical shade boards is based on sun angle mid summer since that is when the sun is highest. Do it right and there should only be sun on the patio when the sun is lower in the sky (winter, spring, fall) as well as possibly early morning and late evening.


Should a skirt board on a stair case be installed over the treads?

Skirt boards are one of the hardest things in my opinion to do.  I can rip apart a bathroom and have it put back together in 2-3 days and it might take me the same amount of time to make a couple of long stair skirts.  All of your stairs wont be the exact same measurements, walls are not perfectly flat... One of the things that I source out now for sure.

The short answer is it depends.  If the staircase will be carpeted or if there is no overhang on the treads then the answer is tread first.  Basically this is faster because your treads don't have to be perfect.  Also your skirt doesn't have to be perfect.

If your stairs will be showing the treads or if there is an overhang I would suggest installing the skirt and then the treads.  This will give you a cleaner look.  Also good luck notching out the skirt to match all of the overhangs on the tread if you decided to do it last.


Is it "OK" to have my pool heater and pump share a circuit?

I have a pool with a 220 Volt pump and a gas heater that requires 220 volts to run the electronics. They both run from the same 220 Volt switched line from the house. They have been running this way for 4 years now with no problems at all.


Water leaking up the stem on the main water shutoff valve

Tightening the packing nut (the large nut that is visible with six facets) would be the only option I know of. This valve is the water company's responsibility where I live. I assume you've inquired.
Hope this helps.


Clean way of Extending Stud for Mounting on Drywall

I know that your desire is to not mount any more wood but from the description that you gave it seems like the very best choice is to actually mount a 1x4 or 1x6 board across the width of the wall and screw into the various studs. Such board could even be full room width or at least longer than the backdrop width.

If this board had the screw heads counter sunk and then filled in and then sanded, primed and painted to a color to match the wall it would be better looking that you might imagine.

This board would give you ultra flexibility where to mount the hooks that the backdrop hangs from.


What can I use at the top of my stairs for a winch mount?

Having recently moved a refrigerator of about that weight up a set of stairs using only a hand-truck (for wheels) it can be done (I'm not abnormally strong or huge.) Literally take it one step at a time.
If the wheels are not of adequate size to roll on the steps, use a hand-truck with large enough wheels (but not so large you can't stop on a step) and ignore the wheels on the grinder.
But it can be more easily done with two or more people, whether rolling or (when your people can lift it and not be at their limits and at risk of dropping it) brute-force carrying.


How do I install a window screen that must go in from the outside and does not have tabs, springs, pins, or any flex?

They don't all use springs or clips. On many (especially older aluminum and steel frame) windows the channel is deeper on the top and one side. This allows the screen frame to insert, then drop and/or be pulled into the shallower channel whilst still being (half) held in the deeper channel opposite. Usually this type has a plastic "pull-tab" that is held in by the rubber spline, to help the user insert and remove it. It is common to see these tabs break off over time.

None are made to have the screen frame bent for insertion.


Get a 20A to 15A converter cable, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-1F515520-1-Foot-15-Amp-Adapter/dp/B00439KIF6

It is perfectly safe to plug a 20A device in to a 15A receptacle on a 15A breaker. If your device draws more than 15A, the breaker will trip. You can reset the breaker and try again, with a lower load. If you never exceed 15A draw, you'll be fine.

15A is a lot for a computer. You can use a Kill-A-Watt to measure your actual load, if you're curious.


Clean up muddy water left after hurricane

What I've done in the past for mud and other messes is to start with a garden hose to move the mud, using a basic sprayer head. You spray in an arc across the floor and try to get the water & mess flowing in the direction you want.  You can use the squeegee broom mentioned by brhans to help with this. The water not only helps liquefy the mess to make it easier to flow away, but the movement and pressure does the work of moving it for you. You don't even need a pressure washer to get most things clean this way.

If you get really good at this, you can not only get large amounts of mud/mess off the floor, but you can get nearly 100% of it off. I've used the technique so much and figured it out so well that mops were essentially unnecessary for several things I've had to clean off floors. Getting the water to move correctly will prevent puddles and will leave not much more standing water than a mop will.
How thick and/or how large an area it is you need to work with determines your starting point. If it's not thick and not a large area, start at the farthest point away from your exit or drain. This gives you the best shot at getting it done in the fewest passes. And don't worry about trying to clean it all in one pass. With something as messy as mud, it'll likely take several passes, even if there's not much there.
If it's a lot of mud/gunk or it's a large area, start closer to the exit or drain. This allows removal of sections of mess and helps prevent it from flowing back on your already cleaned sections.
If it's really thick, as in more than an inch, then you need to shovel it out first, using a flat bladed shovel, like the image below, or a snow shovel or scoop shovel. Depending on where you need to get it, a wheel barrow, like Jim Stewart mentions, could do the trick. If you can't get one through a door, then 5 gallon buckets can work in a pinch.

Images included for example only.


Not sure if my system is exactly the same, but I have to run the pump and boiler to get HW and the pump, boiler & a valve to get heating. The valve is a simple looking bypass thing with just live, neutral and earth and is sprung return. Now according to NEST such a system isn't compatible. However, I've wired with the live going to 2 and 6 (that's right, not 5) on the heatlink. Along with the valve on 3 and a jumper going from 3 to 4. The boiler and the pump are then on 5. This gives me full heating and independent HW control from the NEST without any relays etc. So far it's working perfectly. I looked for ages to find an answer to this and couldn't find a satisfactory one for my application. I hope this helps someone else in the same frustrating position!


How should I replace door chime transformer at breaker panel?

You should follow the instructions provided with the transformer here. Most I've seen have the threaded portion that goes through the knockout made of plastic, and therefore require the ground wire to be used for bonding. There may be some transformers that can be grounded via the knockout to the metal box directly. The instructions should tell you for sure.
You can make splices inside your breaker panel the same way you would in any other junction box. If you have wire nuts or lever terminals and some wire on hand, use that to extend the ground so you can reach the ground terminal. For the ground, you should only use green or bare copper wire.
And it seems you probably already know this, and you didn't ask, but for the sake of completeness, you will want to make sure the white wire on the new transformer is connected to the neutral bar, and the black to the hot of wherever your previous transformer was connected.


The litter has probably gathered in the piping underneath the toilet in the closet bend. You might try forcing a water hose down through the toilet until it stops. Make sure you get all the way through the toilet and near the closet bend. The more pressure you can get, the better. Run the water at high pressure for a considerable period of time to wash the clay as far down as possible. That might help prevent more issues down the plumbing line. If you know anyone that has the skills, remove the toilet first and see if you might be able to use a shop vac and suck out as much of the clay as possible.

Chemical drain openers will not dissolve clay. Don't waste your money.


The holes in our ceiling junction box are not parallel to the walls. Do I have options other than removing the junction box?

You can try an adaptor (universal crossbar) (adjustable swivel crossbar)

Or just live with it as is?


How to check the power capabilities of a house?

Go to the main breaker box and find the main breaker, or "Service Disconnect". It will be separated from the other breakers, and perhaps even in a different box.

The number on the breaker, eg "100" is the max number of amps that your box is wired for (Of course, you would need to distribute your load appropriately.

Have you looked into renting a large generator for the day?


How to repair hole that the chair leg screws into

Repair it using the same hardware it originally had. It sounds like the chair had a T-Nut inserted:

Assuming the "male" screw in the leg still has good threads (you did not indicate that it was bad), buy a matching T-Nut at a good hardware store.

Note- there are quite a few sizes and types of T-Nuts, bring a sample from one of the other legs/chairs.


I have never set a shower pan in a mud base, in glue, yes. Whirlpool tubs go in a mud base with building paper first, reinforcing wire on top of that, nailed or stapled in place, then a stiff layer of high strength sand mix cement or mortar piled high and the tub  "settled into" the mud so the bottom of the tub carries the weight, not the edges.

If you did all that with your shower pan so the mud base did not crack, it would not need glue under it. Typically shower pans do not have that much room under them to allow enough mud under them to keep it from dying out too quickly and therefore weakening the mix, that is why glue has been the only thing used that I know of.

In my opinion, without knowing more of the situation, as in not able to hear the type of sound it is making, you will need to pop the pan and reset it. I think the mud base may have been your own idea?


What is best way to caulk this improperly installed bathtub?

It looks like this is a tub that is not meant for installation up against a wall.   Though it's hard to tell from the photo. Looks like a drop-in tub.  Tubs that are meant for installation along a wall have a flange (not a lip) that the backer board goes over.  This is what actually keeps the water in the tub.  If this is purely a drop-in, you'll want to replace the tub at some point, because you will have leaks no matter how well you caulk (I'm assuming you're using the tub as a shower too).  There are some manufacturers that make non-integral flanges for their drop-ins, but they aren't ideal.

To caulk the gap, find some caulk backer that will fit into the space.  They are made of foam and come in a variety of sizes.  Put the backer in neatly, and then caulk over the backer.  Use silicone caulk, making sure everything's bone dry before application.  I like to use a caulk tool to make things neat.  I see you have masking tape up, which is a good thing.  Carefully remove the tape right after you caulk, before it sets.


Is grounding the subpanel not required some times

That work is in metal conduit.

You don't have any ground wires because the grounding function is being handled by the metal conduit pipes.  All my buildings have the same setup.   Nary a ground wire in sight.

The dead giveaway of conduit is the non-"standard" wire colors; it isn't all black-white with the occasional red.   You will also note writing on the wires itself, not something you'll see with cable installations.

Metal conduit is typically seen in commercial installations.  Note that large condo and apartment complexes, particularly high-rises, tend to be done to that standard.


Can I install used carpet that's been removed from another home?

Technically, yes you can, but in reality the results might not be great:

Carpet is measured and cut to fit a house's floorplan: individual pieces are cut from a carpet roll to fit around the tricky bits in your house (door openings, inside closets, etc.) and then taped and ironed together on site. Unless you have the exact same floorplan, you're going to have some scrap, meaning it will have to come from a bigger house so that you have enough to fit yours1.
Removing carpet without damaging it can be tricky. Think about your house's floorplan, and how you'd roll up a single piece of carpet to get it out your front door. Finding the seams between pieces is difficult because the original installers are trained to join separate pieces invisibly.
Carpet has a grain, so pieces cut lengthwise from a roll will look funny next to pieces cut crosswise.
The carpet gets a different amount of wear and tear in different parts of the house; if you have to join pieces from different rooms in the original house, they may not have worn the same. This may not be an issue if the house you're taking it from is new.
Cutting carpet is somewhat demanding. Installing carpet, even with a power kicker, is a job for the young and indestructible.
Carpet can pick up surprising amounts of dirt; be sure to have it thoroughly cleaned before installation, especially if the original owners have pets.

1. I helped someone do exactly this several years ago; the carpet and pad came from an approx. 2000 sq.ft. house and he installed it in his 1000 sq.ft. basement. The house it came from was very open-plan, with large living and family rooms and three good sized bedrooms. After cutting pieces down to size to fit his basement rooms (1 large bedroom, 1 small bedroom and a living room), he didn't have a whole lot of carpet left over.


Since the floor is so thick, that has a lot going for it. Since it sounds like the holes are over a large area in a part of a room, that is not so good. Not knowing how bad the wood boring insects affected the wood, it will be hard to be definitive with an answer. The safest solution without knowing more about the floor, would be to replace the floor, since the one small section included in the picture does not represent how much damage the floor actually has.
If there was a way to determine the full extent of the damage and found it repairable, it could be done in 2 ways.

The first picture is the simplest, but it will leave cracks where things can still fall through.
After all the cutting out of all the damaged material is done, I would have a pest control company look over the bug damage to see if they are still active, and let them act accordingly, then make the repairs.


Exhaust fumes seeping into our 4th floor apartment at night through bathroom and shower vents/fans

PLEASE seek professional assistance immediately.

There are two main issues with exhaust that can make you feel ill like this: Carbon Dioxide and Carbon Monoxide. Both are harmful, if not fatal, if the percentage present in the air you breath is too high. You DESPERATELY need to install a carbon monoxide detector, and contact your local housing authority. This is not something to be taken lightly, nor fixed by amateurs. HVAC follows particular code and regulations in many countries. I suspect that your venting exhaust is either too close to the garage venting, or is venting INTO the garage.


What's worked for me in the past (though this was with brick shape rather than style) was to e-mail photos to some reclamation yards.

It might not yield results - after all some yards have 10,000's of bricks on site, but you might get a name for the style of brick or a further contact who might be able to help.


From a safey perspective, is it necessary to seal mortar joints between clay liners in the flue of a fireplace?

A single fire could cause health and safety issues if enough of the exhaust gases find a path into the home or heat finds its way to built-up creosote between the chimney proper and its liner.

I would question their method and service-life performance of "sealing" clay liner mortar cracks and compare that, as well as cost, to re-lining the chimney with a flexible, stainless steel flue liner (for its expansion/contraction properties --which tend to break up & drop adhering creosote-- over the rigid format).  Flex liners tend to be about US $100+/ft.


How can I figure out where squirrels are entering my attic?

There may be many points, and they may not be what you think. First off, squirrels can squish themselves down and fit through a hole much smaller than you'd think they could. Don't rule any holes out because they're too small (well, other than say the vents in your soffit).

Check soffits, vents, corners, anywhere wiring or pipes enter (anywhere in the house).

It's possible they're coming in around the foundation, or through your garage, and then climbing up walls or even on the inside of walls. Look for any holes, including under decks, stairs, etc.

In the winter, seeing their tracks in the snow can point you in the right direction (but the sooner you can get rid of them the better so don't wait until winter).


How can I reattach a kitchen cabinet door hinge with plastic dowels?

I think a similar question has been answered before but I can't find it at the moment.

Open that hinge and unscrew the metal screws that are now holding the plastic plugs to the hinge.
Use 2-part epoxy to attach the plastic plugs into the craters in the cupboard side. Take care to get them located in exactly right position and flush with the surface. If necessary make a jig using scrap wood. Use clamps or a jig to hold everything in position until set.
Level the feet on the washing machine (one or more will have a hexagonal nut you turn to raise or lower that foot)
Ensure you always load the machine so that it doesn't get out of balance. Some machines have that sort of problem with part loads. Check the manual.
Accept that despite all the above, the material and fixing method are too weak for the stress you are applying
Add two additional hinges to the two that currently support the door. You can buy those hinges and you can also buy installation kits that include the appropriate sized forstner bits and jigs to align and locate the holes properly.


First, know that drywall tape joints are actually quite strong. If you leave a 1/8" gap between panels so that joint compound can achieve full depth, there's little you need to do in that location. There will be virtually no pressure on it there.

I'd float some scrap lumber between the studs in the middle to reduce the span by half, and maybe at the upper left. 4" lengths of 1x2 or plywood will do.

You could also use the hemmed edge of a drywall sheet for even more strength. It doesn't look like the wall was furred out for the flange, so I'm not sure how things will fit, but doing so might benefit by it being a thinner piece.


What type of screw/bolt has expandable wings behind the wall surface?

Those are "Mollys": (hollow wall anchors)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_(fastener)
They don't come out,
the screw comes out (it's long so it comes out slowly), but the anchor part will stay.
It might be possible to drill out the anchor part from the front
Or maybe cut off the arms at the back, remove the nut fold up the stubs and eject the anchor body


How do I install a light socket in the middle of a power line with a switch?

You put the switch and the light fixture both between hot & neutral, effectively parallel to each other. That makes the light always on and the switch creates a short between hot & neutral - correctly tripping the breaker.
What you have is a switch loop. They are confusing at first but actually quite simple.
Light switches are normally wired in the "middle" of the hot wire between the power source and the light. The way you do that with a switch loop is as follows:

Black from power (hot) connects (yes this will seem strange) to the white wire going to the switch. It bypasses the light fixture.
White from power (neutral) connects to the silver screw on the light fixture.
Black from the switch goes to the brass screw on the light fixture. This is called switched hot.

This uses the same wires you already have, just arranged slightly differently. Plus you need one more wire nut to connect the black power wire to the white switch wire.
In order to avoid future confusion, you should put colored electrical tape (not green or white) near both ends of that white switch loop wire to indicate that it is a hot wire.

As noted in a comment on the question, you may want to preemptively replace the switch as it may have been damaged by arcing from shorting. If you do that (or if you replace it sometime later for any other reason), keep in mind that a traditional switch loop does not have neutral. That rules out many, but not all, options for timers, lighted switches, dimmers, smart switches, etc. If you put in anything other than a simple switch, make sure that it does not require neutral.


How can this pool heater gas line be disconnected?

You are looking at a union, with an elbow to the left and a valve to the right.

Put one wrench on the biggest "nut". Put the other wrench on the smaller "nut" immediately to the right of it - you'll notice both of them are more worn than the other ones.

Hold the smaller one still while unscrewing the larger one.

Here's a cutaway view, if this image link works. From Grainger, no affiliation nor endorsement implied. Down on this image would be right on your image.


How can I determine the manufacturer of these cabinet doors?


underlayment for laminate flooring: anything to substitute with?

I wouldn’t recommend it. The moisture barrier is meant to protect against water and other moisture and the underlayment provides isolation. Not using either of them leaves that part of the floor exposed and will leak heat.

I would recommend just buying the roll of underlayment.


Proper craftsmanship to mount Wi-Fi AP and ethernet cable to ceiling?

This is a very short answer but I'd just use the mounting disc that comes with the AP, drill a small hole in the ceiling and put a plug on the cable and you're done.  The instructions for the AP show how to mount it but it's really just a matter of three screws and drywall anchors and when mounted no cable visible.  Look at the disc and you'll see where the hole needs to be.


Can dehumidification be achieved in a typical US residential forced-air system without dedicated components?

I will give you an off-label hypothetical answer for your hypothetical question TPE.  Do with it what you will.

Many medium efficiency systems have the evaporator coil placed downstream in the airflow after the gas furnace heat exchanger to insure that condensation from the AC does not form on the furnace heat exchanger, rusting it out.  If you have a system that has the evaporator downstream of the furnace then as Tester101 said, “nothing good” would come of running the AC and the heater simultaneously.  The furnace would overpower the evaporator and no moisture would be removed from the air, and you would have very big utility bill and your compressor might keep tripping on its overload protection.

If you happen to have a system where the evaporator coil is upstream in the airflow from the heat exchanger for the furnace and you are an ace at wiring your own control systems, then what you ask might be possible provided the following conditions are met:

The AC system should have a “low ambient” control installed.   This usually includes two components (i) a head pressure control that slows the outdoor condenser fan to keep head pressure above the minimum acceptable level when the outdoor ambient is below mid 70s and, (ii) a freeze-stat that senses the temperature of the suction line leaving the evaporator coil which shuts the compressor off for a few minutes when the temperature falls to freezing, insuring that the evaporator coil never  accumulates ice when it is being asked to cool already cool 68 degree air from the house.
The airflow for your furnace blower should be set so that the air temperature leaving your evaporator coil is in the mid to upper 40F degree range.  (You want to remove latent heat from humid 70F air, so you must get the evaporator coil well below the dew point).  To do this without risking early destruction of your compressor, your AC system preferably needs to have a thermal expansion valve (TEV) to regulate evaporator coil and not a fixed expansion orifice.  If it has a fixed expansion orifice and no accumulator to protect the compressor, then a skilled refrigeration technician will need to carefully set the system refrigerant charge so you do not get liquid flood back going into your compressor during cold operating temperatures.  Of course, you could have that tech retrofit your system with a TEV instead.
During dehumidification operation, your furnace would need to cycle to maintain the desired discharge temperature around 72 degrees F while the system is running.   The furnace is typically about twice as powerful as the AC in terms of BTU/hr, so it could not run continuously during the dehumidifying cycle unless you want to heat your house.
You would need to build or find a suitable mode switch for your system that would allow you to select between “HEAT, COOL, FAN, and DEHUMIDIFY.”
You would need to periodically inspect your furnace heat exchanger to make certain that if it forms an excessive amount of corrosion, you would know to replace it.


What is this pipe coming out of the basement floor?

In a basement, galvanized pipe like that could have been a pipe feeding oil from an underground tank to an oil heater that has long ago been removed and replaced with something else. I had one like that and figured it out by looking at where an old chimney had been removed by looking at the sub-floor structures made to accommodate it. I didn't know exactly where the pipe lead until I accidentally found the tank one day in my front yard while digging holes to plant trees. That was an unpleasant surprise, cost me $10k to have the tank removed and the soil cleaned from leaks.

If it was natural gas, it would be black iron pipe, not galvanized. unscrew the cap and smell it, the smell of fuel oil never completely goes away. If water starts to leak out when you loosen it, tighten it up again right away!


It shouldn't be an issue, two 1/4" holes in the web of the beam are not significant.  (I'd only bother with two holes - more than enough strength.)

I would just use four beam clamps so it's readily adjustable, and because it's much easier, and secure enough.

Either way, I'd just bolt the mount straight to the beam clamps, or straight to the beam, no need for the wood.


Longevity Stamped Concrete vs. Normal Concrete?

Stamped concrete won't be any less durable than broom finish or smooth finish. Many people that do stamped, stain it artistically with various colors to make it look more like natural stone. But if you do that, it does needs to be sealed. It looks great, but you do have to re-seal it every few years.
I supervised a large driveway replacement project for my mother that included adding a patio area. We made a boarder of stamped concrete about 12" wide.  I suggested staining it to make it more prominent and the concrete guy (VERY knowledgeable) said that if we did that, it would need to be sealed every couple of years.  The problem is, while the pattern (grapes & vines) is great, it's just not very visible without any stain.
So at the end of the day, it's a matter of opinion/personal choice. So here's my opinion:  If I planned on living in a house for another 8 years I'd go stamped. According to your estimates, the cost diff is $5K. That's $650/year or $52/month.
Life is short, use the good china and silverware. This is of course totally opinion based, which I may get snipped for, rather than "How do I do stamped concrete?". But I do believe you'll recover your cost diff. when you sell.


How to replace a compression valve behind sink?

That valve uses a compression fitting to attach to the copper pipe. Here are your options (in order from easiest to hardest which is also, conversely, in opposite order from a reliability standpoint), I will label them as to each method's reliability. All three methods require you to shut off the water supply:

Buy an identical valve and screw it to the nut that is already trapped on the pipe by the compression ferrule. Remove the existing valve by holding the valve body with one wrench, then unscrewing the compression nut with a 2nd wrench. When you screw the new valve onto the old nut, reverse the procedure above and know that you will have to get it nice and tight for a good seal. (good)
Cut behind the existing nut and ferrule (you will likely need to use a hacksaw because there does not appear to be room for a tubing cutter). Use a "sharkbite" style push-on connector with 1/2" male iron pipe threads (MIP/NPT). Thread on the appropriate replacement valve. (better)
Cut behind the existing nut and ferrule (you will likely need to use a hacksaw because there does not appear to be room for a tubing cutter). Solder on a male adapter with 1/2" male iron pipe threads (MIP/NPT). Thread on the appropriate replacement valve. (best)


Furnace filter inserted backwards, will this cause permanent damage?

If liquid refrigerant gets in the compressor, it can indeed cause damage.  The compressor is designed to compress gas, trying to compress liquid can burn out the motor.
Let the system defrost. Fix the filter.  Then turn it back on. If the system still isn't cooling, you'll have to troubleshoot it yourself, or contact a professional to do it.  Make sure you give the system plenty of time to defrost. If the condensing unit was iced up, the evaporator is likely a solid block of ice.
Don't worry too much yet, everything could be just fine. Burning out a compressor isn't very common. You'll likely be okay, as long as you didn't run the system like this for a long time. Which I'm guessing you didn't since it won't work well, and you'd probably notice it wasn't working fairly quickly.
The backwards filter may not be the only problem, but may have been just enough to expose other problems.
Make sure all the registers and returns are open, and free from obstructions.
Closed/obstructed registers and returns, cause lower air flow through the system.
Check the evaporator coil (or have a pro do it), to make sure it's clean.
A dirty coil reduces the air flow, and reduces the transfer of heat.
Check the blower motor (or have a pro do it), to make sure it's running at the proper speed.
A slower motor moves less air over the coils, which reduces the amount of heat transferred to the refrigerant.
Check (or have a pro check) the refrigerant level.
A system that doesn't have the proper amount of refrigerant, will not function properly.

More information
The backwards filter caused reduced air flow through the evaporator, which reduced the amount of heat transferred to the refrigerant. Because of this, the refrigerant was likely not boiling off as soon as it should have. This caused the coils at the beginning of the evaporator to be very cold, which caused the normal condensation that is on the coils to begin to freeze. As the coils freeze up, the air flow is reduced even more. As the air flow reduces, less heat is transferred to the refrigerant. This causes a snowball effect, which carries on down the line.
Eventually the entire evaporator coil is in a solid block of ice, and the suction line (larger diameter pipe) is also frozen. At which point, liquid refrigerant will be making its way all the way back to the compressor. The compressor will now be trying to compress a gas liquid mixture. Since it cannot compress the liquid, the compression rate will drop. This causes the temperature of the compressed gas to be lower than it should be. At the same time the liquid in the mix will start to boil in the condensing coil, which will drop the temperature of the coils. As the condensing coil temperature drops below freezing, any moisture in the air around the coils will start to freeze.
If the system is allowed to run like this, the refrigerant in the compressor will be more liquid than gas. Since the liquid cannot be compressed, the compressor will struggle to operate. Eventually, the overworked compressor will give up.


Boiler losing pressure only when central heating is on, and only a little, leak?

Your expansion tank may be the problem.

From wikipedia:

  An expansion tank or expansion vessel is a small tank used to protect closed (not open to atmospheric pressure) water heating systems and domestic hot water systems from excessive pressure. The tank is partially filled with air, whose compressibility cushions shock caused by water hammer and absorbs excess water pressure caused by thermal expansion.

If it's busted you will have pressure fluctuations in the heating circuit.


Yes, using a wirenut to connect the hot to 4 pigtails is perfectly fine. Wirenuts are designed to carry the full current of the connected wires. Just make sure all of the wires are nice and snug.


Sounds like it will be a lot cheaper and easier to create a drain field in your grassy area.

Good luck!


Should I apply rigid insulation between existing basement framing?

Here's my preferred basement wall construction method:

Should I use steel or wood studs for basement exterior walls?

You live in NY, so I'm guessing your winters aren't the warmest. I'd suggest pulling out the furring strips so you can put a decent amount of insulation. It's recommended to use a continuous insulation model to a value of r-10:

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/guides-and-manuals/irc-faqs/irc-faq-basement-insulation

To get to r-10 will take a few inches (it will vary based on the type of insulation you are using...extruded vs. expanded polystyrene, for example.)

Then put up new studs (I'd suggest metal) and then your wall board (I'd suggest a paperless product such as DensArmor).

All that said, if you don't want to go to that extent, sticking 1" foam insulation in the existing cavities will help a bit, so you might as well do it. I'd forgo the tarpaper, though.


What is the best way to add new stud framing above fireplace and tie it into existing framing?

It is up to you of course, but good solid masonry is great for fixings. I'd cut out a square of the existing drywall a bit larger than the base of the bracket and then replace it with a new piece of drywall (or tile cement backer board for even more strength) fully bedded in adhesive. I.e. instead of a small air gap behind the drywall go for full adhesive (like you would behind a ceramic wall tile for example). Fill the small seam between the new and old and allow a good amount of time to dry.

I'd also note down where the brick joints are when the drywall has been removed (so as to avoid them when drilling your fixing points.

The only caveat is that this plan fails if you open up the drywall and find poor rubble/ soft mortared/ old brickwork which is not very solid...

Update: Okay, if the bricks are a bit poor, you could still cut out a square of drywall and follow that with raking out the soft areas (joints mostly I'd assume) until the mortar feels solid (i.e. just scrape, don't take a hammer to it). Then mix up some render and plaster the area. Depending on the depth you'll need to do this in several layers over several days. If the mortar in the wall is lime based, I'd go with the same for the render (1 lime putty to 2.5 graded sand). Apply a couple of thin 'skimming' coats (fine sand and putty in equal measures) to the last 3-4mm 1/8th" or so to finish.


Is use of a deep cycle marine battery indoors safe?

3% hydrogen to air is explosive. Even sealed batteries discharge some hydrogen gas when charged--they have to release the pressure or they will break the case. The seal is accomplished with a rubber (or silicone like material) over the port and usually a plastic shield welded in place to keep the seals in place. These batteries are not designed to be refilled.

The risk of explosion is very low with both battery types unless overcharged. Open cell or vented batteries require a flame arrestor (see NEC 480.11). In some systems this is as simple as a strip of mesh fabric like red  scotch bright secured over the cells it needs to be acid resistant because a large component of batteries is sulfuric acid.

With the flame arrestor in place both batteries present similar hazards with the exception that marine deep cycle batteries many times end up being larger (more amp hours) so they take longer to become over charged, so there is really no difference in hazard after a flame arrestor is installed.


If you use a plain LED, you would need a current limiting resistor.  However if you use an LED panel mount pilot light, it will be as simple as drilling a hole in a faceplate and hooking up the leads.


What do I need to know before selecting and installing a cat/pet door in a door?

Questions you need to answer:

Does your cat fit? we ended up buying a small dog door for our enormous cat.
Can your cat figure out how to go through the door? Ours eventually was able to get through, but would bolt in/out because his tail would get caught otherwise. Some cats never figure out the flap-kind. Try it out in a local store if they'll let you (bring food as encouragement).
Do you mind other cats coming in through the door, too? If you do, you can get some assistance from the proximity-sensing collars, but your cat can still lead other cats inside if s/he wants.

Every cat door is going to leak wind somewhat, except the super high-end powered ones. Rain/snow can be mitigated by building a hood around the exterior of the door if you're handy; I haven't seen a product for this but that doesn't mean it's not out there.

You may be able to get away with simply having an extra doormat on the inside of the door, and keeping the laundry room door closed. Yeah, it'll be colder in there...the price of some extra sleep at night.


Can the vapor barrier between a dry floating concrete slab and linoleum flooring be foregone?

Insulated slabs usually have vapor barrier underneath. Since you did a test and found no moisture, there should be no problem installing vinyl flooring on it.


How to wire two light switches, two lights, and one duct exhaust fan so lights work independently but fan works on either switch?

This is very similar to a question I answered here. Use DPST switches, such as those intended for water heaters.

Note that this solution already contemplates the issue of the ligths/fan not all being on the same circuit.

It does not consider having the switches some distance apart. No matter; one of them will be a switch loop.


Can I vent a bathroom through the side of the house instead of the roof?

If you are referring to a vent for an exhaust fan in the bathroom, then the answer is yes.  I recently purchased a new home and the bathroom needed a full remodel due to mold and water damage. There was not an exhaust fan and we wanted one in the bathroom to help pull moisture out and keep the bathroom well ventilated.  Previously I had helped a friend install an exhaust fan and we routed the vent out to the soffit. In our new house the soffits are a long way from our bathroom, so the easier route was to install a wall vent outlet, similar to a dryer vent outlet, directly below the attic vent on the side of the house.  Make sure the vent outlet has flap inside to keep air from flowing the wrong way when the fan is not on, especially if the vent is installed on the windward side of the house.  We painted the cover the same color as the exterior and unless you are really looking for it you can't see it easily.


How can I cut wood in a very awkward location?

Do you have enough room to use an electric drill with a 2" hole saw?  If not, perhaps a Dremel or similar tool with a routing bit?


It it safe to have a 15 amp GFCI outlet on a 50 amp GFCI breaker?

This is trouble, but easily solved.  Simply swap out the 50 ampere GFCI breaker, for a 15 ampere GFCI breaker.

You'll possibly have to use pigtails to connect to the breaker, as it may not accept the size wire used for the existing circuit.

As "subpanels" seem to be quite popular around here, I'm surprised it hasn't been suggested yet.  You could always install a second panel where the tub used to be, then install a 15 or 20 ampere breaker to feed the receptacle.


You could try having the ducts Aerosol Duct Sealed. An expensive process not intended for it's acoustical value, but I assume it would offer some.

Reduce noise from forced air furnace. -More related to unit noise then from people, but you still have two basic options: baffles or insulation.

Other options: move the TV so it doesn't shoot at the registers; add a white noise generator; or get new roommates\children.


How can I repaint an antique piece of furniture that was varnished?

You can paint over varnish, but you will need to thoroughly sand and degloss the existing finish first.

I use medium grit sandpaper followed by fine, then wipe with solvent to remove all dust, dirt etc., then paint with high quality oil-based paint using the very best paint brush I can afford. Just finished some old varnished cabinets and they look great now, mirror smooth like glass.


You're in a QO panel; fortunately has unique busing so you can't misfit a breaker that doesn't belong, you can use either the OEM Square D QO230, or one of the UL-classified competitor models the CHQ230 or ITED230.

Since both wires will be hot, you must use tape or paint to re-mark the white wire a color. Typically this is done by wrapping it with black tape.

Ground first, not last

You should hook up the ground wire first.  You said you hooked up the hots, then hooked up ground, then had a problem.  You were lucky.  You could have been shocked if you tested it without grounds present.  The fact that you did grounds last makes it seem like the ground is at fault. It's not.  It's simply the "canary in the coal mine" warning you of the problem.  Hook it up first, and the problem will be more apparent.

Divide and conquer

Unhook all the wires, except for - anyone, anyone, Bueller? Ground wires.  That's right, leave all ground wires attached.

Now, hook up one wire to the disconnect, open the disconnect, and see if the circuit can power up.  If so, power down and attach the other wire to the disconnect, and test again. Now close the disconnect and test again.   Now attach one onward wire to the water heater.  Test again.  Etc. etc.

At some point, adding a wire will cause the breaker to trip when turned on. Divide that further if possible.  Now you're pretty close to the answer.  If you're still stuck, ask.


What is the name for fixed metal venetian blinds?

Some possibilities come to mind :

Louvered panels,

slatted panels,

slatted ventilation panels.

A google search for the text below gave many from 4" by 4" to fencing and all types in between.

slatted ventilation panels


Home made powered foundation vents? Computer fans and solar power?

CFM: Cubic Feet per Minute. It is the same unit for both.

Note that computer fans are not rated or listed for such use or permanent installation and might not like getting wet.

I don't doubt that such a setup would work but I would test it first with some power adapters (12VDC, common for 120mm fans) before looking at solar panels. As the exact power requirements will depend on the voltage and amperage of the fans, until this is known it is not possible to say if a 20W solar panel would be sufficient for a single fan.


how to properly hang door when wall is far out of plumb?

Depending the style of trim and width, will help determine how much fudging can be done. Usually, depending on the trim choice and whether it is mitered or not, 1/2" can be taken away by moving the jamb past the wall at the top and the bottom to aid in getting it closer to plumb and carve away the drywall strategically to help ease the trim to meet the wall properly.

What you mention in your edit is worth another idea. Since you are willing to feather it out to be plumb, or at least more plumb, you could remove enough drywall to allow shims to be added or sister studs to the existing to get the wall plumb. Perhaps it could be done on the other side of the wall as well? It will require a wider jamb, but it will be plumb...


Looks like mold/mildew due to rain splash from lack of (or clogged) gutters.
Generally, the staining is not uniform from top to bottom.


How to fix gaps between flooring planks in mid-1800s house?

I think those gaps in the floor are part of the charm of old wood flooring. I definitely would not slosh epoxy all over them. I guess it partly depends on the style of the house and the type of buyer you're trying to attract. Original wood flooring may be attractive to some people if it's restored nicely.


Application of stone veneer over painted wall

Yes, you must remove all the paint.

All the weight of the mortar and stone will be depending not on the mortar bond to the substrate, but on the bond between the thin layer of paint and the substrate. That bond, which was designed to hold only the paint itself, is sure to fail in time.

I have repaired two different situations like this:

thin brick pavers were mortared to painted concrete, which resulted in the pavers (and mortar and paint below that) releasing from the concrete starting one year later.
thin stones were mortared to painted stucco, with failure timing and mechanism similar to the previous scenario.

In both cases, grit-blasting would have been the appropriate (and ultimately cheaper) treatment.