Reducing threaded rod to mount fixture cross bar

The thread sizes for these mounting fittings are specified in IPS, "Iron Pipe Straight."  It's a hold over from when lights were mounted on repurposed gas lighting, which used the IPS sizing.  Later IPS was replaced with NPS but the nominal sizes are not the same.  Lamps still use the old IPS sizing.

I believe the size you have there is 1/2" IPS.  Try a 1/2" IPS to 3/8" IPS hickey with your 3/8" IPS crossbar.  I'd not expect to find it in a local store, but it won't be hard to find online.


My hot and cold water are connected in the output of my water heater

This is a thermostatic mixing valve, and it is a beneficial and useful thing to have. The temperature of the water in the tank heater should be 140 F to prevent the growth of Legionellae bacteria, but this is in general too hot for most uses in the house. The solution is to mix cold water into the hot to bring the temperature in the distribution system down to a lower temp, usually 120 F.

Lowering the temperature in the hot water delivery system also increases the service life of valves and piping.

Some of these valves are designed and specified to be installed at or near the hot water heater, others were designed to service only a single use point, usually a shower. I believe the later type is not much used anymore because all modern shower valves have a thermostatic mixing valve incorporated into the valve.

For example, Watts thermostatic mixing valve.

EDIT BTW this water heater is apparently plumbed with copper all the way to the tank. At one time this was considered the first rate way to plumb it, but no longer is.  The reason is because this makes a conducting connection between the steel WH tank and the copper plumbing. This can cause accelerated corrosion of the water heater or the copper plumbing.

Much better and easier is to use bendable supply connections which have a so called "dielectric coupling" meaning the tank and plumbing are insulated from each other.

Also you should have a cut-off valve in the cold water inlet to the WH. I believe it should be located ahead of the T for cold supply to the thermostatic mixing valve, but I am not positive and you had better check on this with someone experienced in plumbing with TMVs.


What is the difference between a main panel and a sub-panel?

A main panel (or service entrance panel) is simply a panelboard that contains the main service disconnect for a property -- this can be up to six circuit breakers in a rule-of-six (split bus) panel, but is more commonly a single main circuit breaker or fused disconnect (such as a pullout).

Or in other words: the service from the electrical utility enters the main electrical panel for a property, and all other panels on that property are subpanels, as long as there is not a second utility service or a transformer on the property.  There are also other special cases such as multiple section main panels, but they're beyond the scope of this answer.


Its just two separate switches in a single yoke.

Also, the supply wire is common to both switches, because the switch is configured that way.  The black screw is the common.

Note that there is another black screw on the other side of the switch... If for some reason you needed each switch to have a separate/different supply, the other black screw would come into play.  Right now both black screws are internally jumpered to each other, but that jumper could be removed if you needed each switch to have a separate supply.  So if you see anything weird on that switch that looks removable, don't remove it.   That's the jumper.


What do the diagnostic flash codes of Milwaukee tool battery packs mean?

Since there is no official documentation, we need to do a bit of reverse engineering. So it appears to me (from similarities with flash codes from cars in the 1990's) that the number of flashes will indicate digits. The "all together" flashes are probably just separators. Applying this, the numbers encoded in your example would be:

0001
1638
0235
0289

Meaning:

The second number means "days since first charge". This number seems to increase by one every day (I observed an increase of 1 in 36 hours, but have to check more; also somebody else claims for M18 batteries it changes daily, see below). So 1638 days back from the date of your question would mean Sept 5, 2012 (says WolframAlpha). It will probably be the day of first charge, not of manufacture, because the date of manufacture is already included on the battery as a Milwaukee date code (though for this one I can't detect one, bit strange). Also, it is reported in the Milwaukee V28 battery troubleshooting guide that fuel gauge LEDs do not work at all before the first charge, so it seems reasonable to assume the flash codes will not work until then either. That is unconfirmed though, but anyway, both date of manufacture and date of first charge are a reasonably good approximation of battery age.
The third number means "charge cycle count". I found that out by charging again until the green light appears, which increased the third number by one and left all others unchanged.
The first and fourth numbers did not change yet, and I have no idea what they mean. They did not change for others who tried to decode them (see below). So maybe a battery health state code, a battery type number, or something else. I will have to compare values from my other battery packs (or if you have these too, please post your values below).

Other bits and pieces (everything I could find on the web):

Seemingly the Milwaukee M18 battery packs (18 V LiIon series) exhibit a very similar behaviour, and one user reports about that: "The first set of flash codes appears to change daily. A second set does change as well, but I haven't figured that one out yet. The remaining codes remain the same." (source)
Again for Milwaukee M18 batteries, an unknown source is quoted saying that "[T]he batteries ha[ve] a chip that records the date they were first charged (at the factory I assume) and that it records the number of charge cycles it has gone through." (source)
A Milwaukee support employee reportedly said "The flashes are of no significance." (source) The answer should have added "to consumers" however, as blink codes are of major significance to geeks :)


It's hard to tell exactly what the problem is, but it certainly doesn't sound right. It may be that you have a mulled window (here's a video about mulled windows), and perhaps the flanges were not nailed in or the nails missed the (rough) sill or header.

I think that the place to start would be to remove the siding under (and around) the window to get a better look at the problem. Here's a quick video about working with vinyl siding.


Cabinet door opening on it's own, how do I adjust this type of hinge?

No answer, but some ideas. Make sure the hinge is properly installed. It sounds like it was installed in the wrong orientation or the wrong type of hinge. Some hinges are design to be installed on lift up type cabinet doors. The spring action helps make the door feel less heavy and not slam shut. If you have other ones that work properly, check it against the others.  The picture you have shows only one screw which leads me to believe that it was designed for another type of door. Overtime, I can see the door coming out of alignment by pivoting on that single screw.

If you are certain it is properly installed, then find the spring mechanism and try to play with it using needle nose pliers or a screw driver. If no luck, then try to disable or remove the spring.


Why is grout at tub edge disintegrating?

It  is  probably failing because grout was in the gap prior to you caulking over it and it was not clean enough.
The gap should not have been grouted at all. You should remove all of the caulk and grout, use a  retractable utility knife and a five in one tool to clean it out. Use the flexibility of the knife to get as much of the old caulk out of the gap and off of the tub lip. (protect the tub lip with some painter tape) Clean the gap well with some denatured alcohol and 3M scouring pad and dry with a towel. (It is vital that you get all of the old caulk off.)
It should be filled with 100% silicone, mold/mildew resistant, caulk.
Tape off the tile and the tub with painters tape so that just the thin gap that you want caulk to be is exposed and then apply the caulk with caulk gun.
There are many tutorial videos on YouTube that will give you instruction on this technique; How to caulk a tub YouTube search.
Here are two
Ask this old house.
See Jane drill.


The range is going to need a #10 copper wire back to the panel, if your outlets are wired with #10 or something is going back to the same panel you can run a #10 to that location and it would be legal. If no #10 you need to go back to the service panel or your main grounding electrode within 5' of where it enters the home. The ground wire can take a different route than the power cable so that makes it a bit easier.


Crack in concrete slab of house - what best to fix it with?

The fact that you have water seeping in through the cracks is much more concerning to me than the cracks themselves.
I'd start at the outside of the home and find where the water management on the property is not working right.  Check your downspouts, check your grading, check especially outside the room that this concrete is in.  Solve that problem and you should resolve your moisture issue inside.
As far as the crack itself, nothing really must be done but there are tools "crack chasers" that you use to cut out a wider slot following the crack and then fill the now larger crack with a concrete crack filler product that will seal it up.
You must, however, deal with the water first as it will recur if you just patch it.


How do I lower the temperature of an electric boiler in France/Europe?

For most boilers the desired temperature is user-configurable. I suggest looking in the manual to find the specific instructions for your model (I searched, but could not find an online copy of the manual for your model).

Another solution would be to change the plumbing to mix in an amount of cold water. It's best to do this near to the output of your boiler.


How do I handle a thin strip of vinyl plank flooring against a wall?

Most modern vinyl flooring locks together securely, and since you're putting down shoe I'd have no concerns--if the plank can't lift it can't come loose. I recently did my laundry room and had this same issue for part of a wall. It's not always possible to plan away such scenarios. My flooring has no problems.
Don't do anything hacky like larger moldings. That'll look lazy and amateurish. Just stick to the recipe and take care to get as good a bond as possible.


Do above counter bowl sinks require special cabinets?

If the vanity is so small that it just supports the bowl but with no usable countertop, then the vanity is often lower than standard by 8" or so.

But if there is usable space on the counter than it's more important to have that work space (shave space?) at a comfortable height than it is to have the top of the sink at a standard height.


When buying an older home that has recently been renovated, what should I look for in the home inspection?

Check with the local building department to verify that they pulled permits and passed inspection for the work.  They could have just covered up big problems that inspectors would have forced them to fix.

Even if they did get permits that does not guarantee that there are not still problems.  Things that may have been hidden from the inspectors, just missed by the inspector, or some issues may just predate the "flip".  You definitely will want an experienced home inspector to check everything thoroughly.


Wow they think those cords are made of gold at 46/47 bucks , here is a utube link on replacing the cord. I hope it works because I am having trouble with high speed today it started but I lost my connection.
https://youtu.be/Qn678UVUd5Q
Got it to run, pull the plastic end caps on the control panel, unscrew the screw at the bottom each end and flip up the control panel you can see the green ground white neutral and black wires on the Molex plug trace them back on the cord black to gold or black screw on the new plug, white to the silver and green to ground. That should do it.


How to repair this plastered wall with brickwork in bad condition?

Personally, I'd be looking for some old bricks and mix up some mortar and try to fix that wall. Get rid of the expanding foam and straighten out that right edge. Remove those old pieces of timber. These brick repairs can be time consuming but if you like puzzles, you'll like this.
Once the wall is repaired and solid, then plaster away. You could then add a layer of cement board if you felt the one inch of plaster was too thick. Good luck and stay safe out there.


Ceiling heat or cable heat is or used to be quite common in the Pacific Northwest.
It is a resistive wire that gets warm when power is applied.
If the heat works with the thermostat turned up the resistance wire is good (it works or it doesn't).
I would  consider having an electrician connect the thermostat if you have tried and failed but the original thermostats were Bi metallic springs connected to contacts (a simple open closed switch). More recent thermostats are digital and they have to be connected properly to function.
Ceiling heat is not something that works well unless being used all the time. It takes time for the heat to penetrate the ceiling and warm the space.
Changes in temperature can take several hours to equalize in a room.
I have been called when folks new to cable heat or ceiling heat thought it was not working and tried to replace the thermostat with one not rated for line voltage (lucky they could not hook the #12 wires in that case to the 18 awg connections).
But depending on the spacing it may take 3 hours for the room to come to heat. The other rooms may have more cables thus heat faster.


What is this flexible hose under my bathroom sink for?

It's a tap into the drain.  Likely for Air Conditioning (condensate) located nearby in the attic.

If this is proven to be the case you will want to familiarize yourself with how it works.  Is it all gravity?  Is there a pump?  Regular (annual) cleaning/flushing is important, as you don't want this to overflow.


How to install cabinets on concrete floor

Its depends on your cabinets ultimately. Do they have an attached or built in toekick?

If not, you can build a continuous toekick frame out of PT, or plywood (treated or marine grade ideally).

Another option is to use Euro-style adjustable feet under each cabinet. With these, you actually could install the cabinets on top of your floating floor. Just screw the cabinets to the wall, and the floor can expand and contract under the feet without any obstruction.

This is how I did my recent kitchen renovation in my last house, and never had any issues with the floating bamboo floor through all of the seasons.


You can buy a louvered vent for the door. You can probably find them at your local home improvement store.

I'm assuming this is a standard hollow core door. The hole can be cut using a a standard jigsaw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade. If it is an orbital jigsaw, you want to set it to have the least aggressive cut as possible to ensure a smooth cut.

Use the vent as a template, and mark the hole using a pencil. Neatness counts here, so try to align it as well as you can to the door. The bottom should be at least a few inches from the bottom to avoid cutting into the metal structure inside the door. Once you have done that, begin by drilling pilot holes near each corner and then cut out the remainder with the jigsaw. After, you can clean up the edges by using a file.

The vent can be attached either with self-tapping sheetmetal screws, or with rivets.


If the fan works against the natural wind flow, a part of the kitchen exhaust air may re- enter the building.
Natural flow is from West to East on the northern Hemisphere most of the time, but could be changed by mountains, buildings, weather or geographic anomalies.
In other words, the exhaust end should be on the Lee side of the building.
Very important with kitchen exhaust fans is the interaction with furnaces, gas ovens, fire places or other combustion units in the building.
The kitchen fan could produce a relatively strong pressure decrease, which pulls the poisonous exhaust gas into the building, if the chimney effect is too weak.
That is why an interlock mechanism is mandatory in some jurisdictions.


Can harmonised and non-harmonised (H and HY) cable be used interchangeably for lighting circuits?

Not all commonly used UK cables comply with the harmonised standards anyway.
UK flat PVC twin-and-earth (and triple-) cables should comply with BS6004.
I can't see any consistency with major suppliers listing either Y or YH type cables.


How can I easily fix or replace the broken knob handle on bathtub faucet control?

Depending on the manufacturer, the stem should be a free replacement.
It's fairly trivial to replace.

Turn off water. (IMPORTANT!)
Remove the large hex fitting on the face of the controller
With vise grips, pull and wiggle the stem out.

If it's a common manufacturer, you should be able to exchange the stem at your local big box store or plumbing supplier.

Reinstalling is simply the reverse.

While picking up the stem, get an appropriate bolt to fit, and you're good to go.

Caveat:  Figure out the manufacturer and call first.


Mitre Circular Saw blades for cutting Oak floorboards

I'd use the 24 tooth blade, but be sure it is a carbide type and sharp. Since all your cuts are end cuts and will be covered with baseboard trim, so getting an ultra smooth cut is not that important. Obviously, you don't want to see any large chips on the cut edge, so do your cuts slowly and smoothly. Save your 48 blade for visible finish cuts on softer wood. If you do plan to do any precise finish work, moldings etc, consider investing in an 80 tooth blade for that type of work.  Good Luck.


How can I confirm a skunk inhabitation, and then persuade the stinky squatter to vacate?

You can try using fox urine in the vicinity to repel the skunks. You can buy it in the hunting section of sporting goods stores. As far as determining if there is a skunk there or not, it could be trick. A motion sensor trail camera would definitely work, but is probably not worth the investment if you don't already own one. To avoid future visits from skunks be sure to keep garbage secure, and avoid compost being out in the open.

The humane society website has a nice section on skunk problems also.

They will not suggest fox urine because the methods of harvesting it don't align with their views, but they mention using kitty litter, which seems like a reasonable option if you have any at your disposal.


Where do you cut drywall if you need to remove it but still want to easily put it back up?

I'll deviate from the other suggestions. I prefer to cut in open space and float new backing.

It's more difficult to cut down a stud. The knife or saw can't penetrate cleanly through, and you tend to hit fasteners.
If you're too far off the stud center you'll have a hard time putting screws back into the skinny overlap.
New, floated backing can be wider than a stud. This makes re-fastening both the patch and the edge of the existing drywall easier. 2-3" wide strips of 1/2" plywood are great. So is scrap 1x4 or whatever you have on hand thick enough to hold a screw.
The new backing doesn't need to be mounted to framing. Fastening blocks to framing and keeping them flush is often a challenge, especially with small openings. Floated backing is automatically flush with the framing.
New backing can be floated beyond the patch and screwed into the existing drywall. This can provide needed support in some situations.
It provides flexibility of location. I don't always want to cut on a stud because of where the taping patch needs to be.
The cutout can be whatever size or shape I like. If I'm reusing the piece, it's easy to float random backing behind the edges of an oddly-shaped cutout. If I'm installing a new patch, I cut that first, trace it on the wall, and cut the trace. Perfect fit every time.
New backing can be installed over insulation, often making the job easier.
Patch size doesn't matter. If it's large enough you'll have some studs to use as well, but this method is great for the edges of the repair.

Of course, one solution doesn't apply to every case. Use what make sense.


A badly made connection that deteriorated over time due to heat-cycling and then arcing.
Ditto with aluminum wires?


What you need to do is to move the Blue wire at the furnace over to the "C" terminal at the furnace. Then at the new thermostat connect the Blue wire to the thermostat's "C" terminal.

Note that at the furnace the White wire currently on the "C" terminal goes into a separate cable bundle that is paired with the Red wire in that same bundle. That cable most likely runs off to the air conditioning compressor unit.

It is not clear what the Yellow wire in the cable bundle from the thermostat connects to at the furnace end. There is a good chance that this is connected incorrectly or not at all. My understanding is that this Yellow wire should be connected into the "Y" terminal at the furnace where the miss-wired blue wire used to be.


Can I replace a 20A breaker with a 40A breaker?

Never EVER swap a breaker for a larger amp.  Extremely dangerous and could easily burn your house down.  If turning on a space heater trips the breaker, there are other things on the circuit drawing current and you will need to shut them off to run your heater on that same circuit.  Also use the lowest wattage setting whenever possible - running 1500 watts (high power) all the time... no telling how warm/hot the wires inside your walls are getting.  If you have an industrial (high-amp) extension cord, you could use it to run your heater from another circuit, or even add a second heater to the basement using the heavy-duty extension cord. (Do NOT use a normal household extension cord to power a heater though!!!).  I'd suggest a kerosene heater to get you through really cold temps - they are great emergency heaters.  Or an oil-filled dielectric radiator heater (those are safer than most).


If you are (as is common) "returning" via a cold water supply line, rather than a dedicated recirculation line, I think you need a check valve where the hot recirculation joins the cold line, not just at the pump.

Otherwise the cold can backfeed from the cold water line to the hot loop when the hot water is run, without the check valve at the pump being involved. All the system designs which use the cold water line as a return typically have the pump located at the point of joining the hot to the cold, NOT at the water heater, so that the check valve in the pump works for this application.

If you have a dedicated return line, and it has a check valve in the pump, that should be sufficient, and you should complain to the supplier of the pump if the check valve is not working.


Hot water to bathroom sink slows to a trickle after shutting off valve for a moment

It sounds like some debris from the shutoff valve ended up in the faucet cartridge or the airator. The flow starting strong and quickly could even be a chunk of the shutoff valve seat that has crumbled getting stuck so the flow starts out good then the chunk blocks the flow to a trickle, disassemble and possibly flow water into a bucket will probably flush the debris out of the system.


Wire and Conduit for Indoor Sub Panel with Outdoor Main Panel Through Attic

You must use the 60 degree column if your feeder is < 100A.  The 75C column is allowable if the feeder >= 100A, and all the other conditions for 75C are met, which they usually are.

Using 310.15B7 (#4Cu) is out of the question.  That table is for service not feeders.  Yours does not supply the entire facility, so no go. If you want to use #4Cu you must breaker 70A, since you don't get the 100A bump.

Keep in mind attic temperatures require a temperature compensation if they're high.  It's also good to think about voltage drop if your distance >=120 feet, but don't think too much about it - base it on actual daily load, not breaker trip, and never put 3% into a voltage drop calc.

It's legal to run cable in conduit, it's just really masochistic.  The stuff is so stiff that you will have a bear of a time manhandling it, and realistically will probably have to call an electrician to do it.

Also masochistic is spending on copper for anything this large. Copper is a semi-precious metal. Aluminum AA-8000 is a fantastic choice but you will need #1Al.  Aluminum requires slightly larger conduit but the savings in wire easily pays for it.   I only use copper on very short runs.  If you heard something about aluminum being bad, what is true does not apply here.

There are several ways to do it.

conduit all the way, and individual THWN or XHHW wires in conduit.
conduit up the wall only, wet-location cable continuously the whole way including through the conduit.
conduit up the wall only to a junction box, individual wires in the conduit, then a splice to dry-location cable.  The splice will be fairly expensive due to the very large junction box required and Polaris connectors, may cost more than just running conduit the whole way.

I see no reason for liquidtight conduit.  You will still need to use outdoor rated wire or cable.  The one place it might help is keeping water out of the breaker panel if you top exit.  I strongly prefer to bottom exit for obvious reasons, but that will be quite a large radius turn.


Remote Switch wiring for a gas log fire place

I thought any time you came within 18" of a stove or insert (fireplace type) you were supposed to use "glass" or high temp appliance wire (but this may be an Oregon thing).  It is about a buck a foot here in the pacific northwest. You only need a small gauge to control your gas valve; 18 would probably do just fine but it may be easier to find 14awg.  The wire I am talking about has a glass braid on the outside and some type of plastic inner insulation, this type of wire can handle the heat unlike standard AWM/NM/THHN. Plumbing and electric stores usually have it; I'm not sure about the big box stores.


How do I best go about removing a chimney shrub?

Wow...you must live where everything grows. Yes, remove the fern and then treat the chimney with a herbicide or cleaning/sterilization solution.

I'd make sure all the roots,etc. are removed. You wouldn't want a chimney fire from old dry roots.


What does the 26/6 mean in a pump rating?

It has been a few years since I looked at specs on one but the two numbers are identified as Q/H or (m3/h by m).  (m = meters)
To my understanding Q is volume of flow in m³/h (25), so how many cubic meters of liquid can flow in a hour period.
With H is delivery head in m (height) which is the height you can pump a liquid to straight up.
These are the basic description for standard values.  In an exact case to determine what values are needed in a specific application would be based on all the variables such as pipe sizes in the entire system, desired pressures, suction tank/source levels and more.


Is softwood appropriate for furniture squares on a hardwood cabinet?

My suggestion is to dump the use of the 18 gauge brads. There is absolutely no reason to use anything bigger than 3/4" x 3/4" material for this type of internal joint block. Use flat head wood screws placed into pre-drilled countersunk clearance holes in these glue blocks. Then apply glue to the block faces where it meets the cabinet sides and install the screws.

It is OK to use any type of material you want for this type of glue block but I have found from practical experience that soft woods like pine are too prone to splitting when using as described above. Oak is great as it glues very well but poplar would be acceptable.


When ordering lumber what percentage of waste should be expected?

I don't think there is an exact answer here.   Most of the issues you are talking about have more to do with the storage, age, time, and manufacturing of the lumber.  So basically you will have a couple of people working at HD or Lowe's that contract out to mills or other lumber yards to get their pallets.  Of course "older" lumber is cheaper.  But you don't know how it was stored and climate/time of year factor into these things too.  Leave some 2x4s out in humid summer heat and they are done in a couple days.

If you are getting a ton of lumber your local lumberyard or something like an 84 Lumber (which I use a few times a year) is a better bet.  First their quality is almost always better and also they will drop off at your door if you hit their minimum.  I order about 10% more than plans.  This really isn't because of board defects but is more for planning defects or bad cuts.

Right when we get a pallet we do an inspection.  If we think we will use the whole thing within a day or two we will bust it open.  If not we work off the top and try to keep the straps on.  It is inevitable that we will find a board with a crown or bowed.  You don't take back every piece that has an issue - you don't have time for this and sooner or later a lumberyard would cut you off - this comment is for framing dimensional lumber like 2x4/2x6s and anything bigger you would be more stringent.   What do we do with the slightly bowed or warped?  We either hide them in places where it doesn't matter or cut them up for crosses.

Now I do sometimes receive a pallet and you can just tell right away that it sucks.  In all of those cases I call up my rep and tell him the pallet sucks right away.  Again you have to have a relationship with a place to do this.  But he would usually spot me a discount and just ask me to snap a picture of anything that I can't use.

Some general tips for dealing with the big boxes (Menards, HD, Lowes):

don't buy anything white.  If the board doesn't have a yellow tint don't touch it.  The cheap white pine they sell I wouldn't use for anything and it flakes at the ends when you try to nail into it.
their employees are told to put the scraps back on top.  It could be the case that the top three layers of any pallet includes scraps that someone else discarded.  I have no problems throwing out 50 boards in a pile on the floor until I start seeing something decent.
if you want straight and durable you are going to have to buy the highest grade that they sell in most cases.  Most big boxes near me sell two varieties of #2 (pure white crap) and two varieties of #1 or premium.  Sometimes and I will emphasize sometimes the worst grade of #1 is OK.  This depends who is buying at your store.
I usually buy my framing lumber with one of my older kids in tow.  I will check it for twisting and vertical warping (if one board is warped chances are the one next to it is too).  My son throws it on the floor and makes sure it lies flat.  It is very normal that when looking for 30 2x4s we find 4 in our first 30-40 boards and the rest in the next 30-40.
special note for PT.  Don't buy any PT 2x4s that looked like they just came out of the pool.  My HD loves to sell super wet PT.  I have complained numerous times (along with several other contractors I know) and the lady that handles the fulfillments just laughs at us and acts like we are idiots.  She has told me personally that PT is supposed to be that wet (it actually drips when you pick it up).  So dumb she thinks everyone else is dumb.  Two takeaways from this.  You are at the mercy of those ordering at the store.  And if you buy that wet PT it will warp and twist when it is drying - even if you get it to use.
sometimes you will only find a good pallet in a certain length.  I have been to HD many times and seen that all of the 96" boards suck.  But walk over to the 104s and bam a good stack.
they take anything back.  The only thing you can waste at big box is your time.  You can grab 30 twisted boards and bring them all back and they don't care.


What is the correct technique for calking two adjoining surfaces in a shower?

Yes, YouTube is great at showing the easiest of circumstances. What has worked for me is cutting the caulk nozzle straight across instead of at the 45 degree angle they suggest. Cut at the tip for the smallest opening and then press the caulk tube firmly against the tile seam at 90 degrees and start caulking. Move the tube slowly along the seam. If some caulk squirts out don't worry about it, wait until you're done with that section and then clean/smooth the seam with your finger, working more caulk into the seam. It will get easier once you get to the larger gaps. If you can weight the shower pan down you might be able to widen the gap before caulking.


GFI Outlet Tripping (A/C and Extension Cord)

AC units and GFCI’s don’t always plat well together. I would bet you could plug this directly ac directly into the GFCI and about the same cycle would occur.
This happens all the time with Refrigerators and freezers , just search the site for proof. The GFCI receptacle should be unaffected by a 50’ extension cord of that large gauge. not much difference than using the load terminals on a GFCI circuit.
The manufacturer says not to use extension cords to limit their liability but 1200w would work fine on a 14 awg cord.
Why is the GFCI tripping out after a few seconds?
The electronics first turn on then the fans then the compressor itself.
The compressor is likely causing enough of a phase shift at startup to trip the GFCI.
The reason is motors are inductive devices and when they first start their ac resistance is near zero as the high current incoming is almost pure inductive there is a 90 degree phase shift in voltage and current. Most use a capacitor to cancel the shift and provide true power for starting. This phase shift is seen on inductive devices and most likely the cause for the tripping.
You can prove it’s the AC and not the cord by plugging directly in to the outlet.
There are many such questions on this site.
The phantom voltages mentioned by others has voltage but no current it takes current at 5ma to trip a GFCI. The instantaneous load of a 1200w system will be close 4000w and the large phase shift due to inductance causes problems.


Having eliminated aerogel due to lack of common commercial availability, polyisocyanurate is the best common commercial product on R/inch basis.


You didn't mention what is the foundation to support, a patio with deck is very different from a 2-stories building in concern of settlement tolerance.
The settlement is a function of soil bearing strength and footing area, for a concentrically loaded foundation, the bearing pressure is the total force (superimposed dead load + live load + footing self-weight) divided by the footing area, the resulting bearing pressure must not exceed the allowable bearing strength. For the dry condition, you can obtain the presumptive bearing pressure from the building code, or from the local building department provided that you know the type of the underlying soil. However, if there is the presence of groundwater near or above the bottom of the footing, you shall consult a geotechnical engineer for guidance.


How to get rid of cockroaches using natural products?

I have had great luck with boric acid based products for ants and roaches and just about any bug.  It's inexpensive, effective, and relatively safe.  It's easy to dust in the cracks and crevasses and gaps and spaces where they hide.

Diatomaceous earth is another alternative that I have heard is just as safe and effective, but boric acid has worked so well I haven't bothered to try it.


I don't believe you're allowed to have two traps on the same drain line at all, and you certainly don't want two in a row. You will surely get weird syphoning and gurgling problems.

Just replumb the new sink so that the drain goes straight down and joins the old sink's drain before the P trap.


Will concrete poured over wet ground be more likely to crack and disintegrate?

Civil engineer here.  The concrete needs to stay wet in order to cure properly. As noted before, concrete doesn't dry out to harden, it cures through a chemical reaction that needs water to facilitate the reaction. If the ground is dry, the ground will absorb moisture from the concrete and it won't cure properly.  The ground should be very moist and compacted as well as you can manage.

Also, wet clay is notoriously weak and you may end up with uneven support under the concrete, which will then lead to it cracking and settling after it's cured.  Hard to say without seeing it but if you can remove as much clay from beneath the concrete slab, you'll have less chance of it settling and cracking.  This is especially true if the clay is expansive.  It will expand when wet and shrink when dry and your concrete slab will be a disaster. Best to get as much clay removed as possible, compact the sub-grade evenly, and make sure to water the ground before placing the concrete.

Have you thought about proper joints?  Concrete will crack.  If you can get it to crack along a joint, no one will see it. Look at some professionally done concrete flatwork and you'll see what I mean.  Good luck.


What causes gas oven to click but doesn't always ignite?

The clicking sound is the spark module trying to ignite the gas. You should be able to verify that it is actually sparking. Since the oven does light intermittently check to see if the openings in the burner are blocked.
With a toothpick probe each opening for obstructions. If it continues working erratically it could be gas pressure regulator.


Is 68F too low for hot water heating thermostat? Final radiators not getting heat

The pressure is too low. Normally when you bleed there should be air or water getting pushed out.

Find the intake valve and open it up a bit. Then go around and bleed the radiators and open the valve again for a bit. Repeat until all radiators spit out water when you crack open the bleed valve.

Then when the circulation pump kick in again it may push some air back into the radiator requiring another bleed. After that you should only need to bleed once a year or so.


What is the minimum distance wiring must be behind a tile backsplash?

Your issue is covered in the National Electric Code, for installations in the USA:

  NEC 300.4 Cables and raceways shall be protected from damage. Where installed through bored holes in wood framing members, the holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 1¼ inch from the nearest edge of the wood
  member, or shall be protected by a 1/16 inch steel plate.

So basically you need 1¼ of solid wood material (not counting the wallboard/wall covering) to buffer access to the wire, or a metal plate.

But in your case I'd I recommend using armored cable (formerly known as 'bx').  Or emt (conduit). Then you've got no worries.

Frequent practice is to have the fridge on it's own circuit, and the dishwasher (if you've got one) is required to be on its own.


How to safely unplug an outdoor extension cord that got wet?

If the outdoor socket has gfci protection through another (indoor) outlet then you can turn that gfci outlet off.

If you know which circuit the outlet is on you can turn off just that breaker.

The nuclear option is to go to the main breaker and shut that off.

After the power is shut off you can safely unplug the extension cord and then turn the chosen shutoff back on.


What is the most affordable equipment required for brazing?

The main difference between most torches is the maximum temperature it is capable of handling. So you can use propane as the fuel in MAPP torch (which burns hotter), for example.

The second difference will be whether it uses compressed oxygen, or just the air around it. If it uses compressed oxygen it will burn hotter.

Approximate burn temperatures ( as found on Wikipedia )

propane/air 3,630 °F (2,000 °C)
MAPP/air 3,670 °F (2,020 °C)
propane/oxygen 4,530 °F (2,500 °C)
acetylene/oxygen 6,330 °F (3,500 °C).

For more information read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting

There are also some differences in the construction of torches that make them more suitable for use with some fuels over others.

For brazing, I would start out with one of those propane/air, or MAPP/air torches that just screw onto the end of those small bottles you find at hardware stores. They are usually packaged with a bottle of fuel, because they are so cheap.

If you then find that those don't put out enough heat, or you're constantly going through bottles of fuel, then upgrade.


In a 120/240V system, the neutral is a center tap on a 240 volt transformer secondary coil. So your home is not fed by two 120 volt wires, it's fed by a 3-wire 120/240V single split-phase system.

If it helps, you can think of it as three separate circuits.  There's the 240 volt circuit, which flows through the whole secondary coil (L1 to L2).  Then there's the first 120 volt circuit, which flows through half of the secondary coil (L1 to neutral). Finally  there's the second 120 volt circuit, which flows through the other half of the secondary coil (L2 to neutral).

The information in this answer might also be helpful.


Putting a new finish on engineered hardwood floors

Before you do all of that, or considering you asked back in August (my apologies) hopefully this helps the next person.

Try floor wax first.  If it APPEARS fine you don't need to refinish the floors.

Rub it on, buff it off, viola the floor is slippery again.


How do I fix aluminium edging onto an MDF board?

Drilling holes should help keep the MDF from splitting, take care to keep the holes as far from edges as you can and as straight as possible. Use short screws unless the aluminum edge will need to support the weight of your board (i.e. hanging on the wall by the top frame).
If you don't want visible screw heads you can alternatively use a strong adhesive such as epoxy.


Your plan as written probably doesn't follow code in a couple of places. If you're working with an electrician, you should have them approve your plan. Then you implement the plan, but they check your work. Don't do the work or buy materials until they have reviewed your plan.

From a usability standpoint, don't put the ceiling lights on the same circuit as the outlets in a room. All of the room ceiling lights can be on the same circuit. This way someone tripping a breaker in a room doesn't leave the room dark.

Along those same lines, you might put the hallway light on a separate circuit from the bedroom lights, but this is strictly a nice-to-have.

Unless you anticipate high loads in the bedrooms, you can put the outlets in the bedrooms all on the same circuit. It is common/customary to have the master outlets on a separate circuit, but not required.

Depending on the code your jurisdiction follows, it's likely that bathroom circuits must be dedicated to a single bathroom. The light in the bathroom can use that circuit, but it should be wired BEFORE the GFCI so that tripping the GFCI doesn't turn off the light. Alternatively, wire the lights to the bedroom lighting circuit.

Another code adoption dependency is AFCI breakers. You will likely need them for all of the circuits you have planned, including lights.

If you're pulling new wire, use 12 gauge everywhere. Using 14 gauge and 15 amp outlets everywhere doesn't save that much money.

And while you're up there, run a dedicated circuit for wired smoke detectors for all bedrooms and the hallway. Besides the fact that it's a good idea, based on the amount of work you're doing they may be required for your permits and inspection.


Which wall should I install a replacement thermostat on?

For a regular thermostat, you want to place it where it can accurately measure the temperature of the area you use the most. With the Nest, you have the additional functionality of the motion detector which allows Nest to reduce your heat when no one is home.

Thus, your last option, centrally in the family room, sounds best to me.

The second option is not clear with regard to the view of people using the family room. If that location only sees people entering the family room but not in the family room, that makes it hard for Nest to know there are people home if they go to the family room and stay there a long time.


The problem is that the "back pressure" at the tub spout is too high. Remove the tub spout and check/remove any debris. If there is no debris in the pipe or spout, then there are a couple solutions for this.
Adding a water flow restrictor to the pipe that runs up to the shower head might work. This would require cutting into the wall, though.
But I believe that the better solution (in my humble opinion) is to raise the height of the pipe that goes to the shower head, because it involves no painting.
Plumbing is all about gravity and pressure. If the pipe going up to the shower head is high enough, the evil back pressure from the tub spout will not be able to push the water to the top of the pipe, to overflow to the shower head. Adding a couple feet of pipe (into the attic maybe) might not require cutting dry wall, provided that you can cut through the top plate of the wall and reach and remove the FIP adapter (or drop ear fitting). You will first need to unscrew/remove the shower arm and probabaly use a stubby screw driver and small pipe cutter to detach the adapter or fitting. You will then need (in a difficult to reach area) to use a "sharkbite" coupling to add and extend the pipe. Add as much vertical pipe as necessary; generally, a few feet should do the trick. If you want to be sure it is high enough, have a helper turn on the water (after you have connected the extension). It should not overflow. Connect two elbows with a 2.5 inch nipple, to form a "U" shape. Attach the FIP or drop ear to a length of pipe- the same length as the extension pipe that is now connected to the "sharkbite" (minus the added length from the "sharkbite"). Finish connecting the pipes so that you form a "loop", up then down to the hole for the shower arm. Reattach your shower arm. Use 2x4s to build a support bracket for the loop and be sure to support the missing chunk of top plate (top of the wall).


I have a rule: Nobody does things for no reason.  600A is a crazy amount of service, and if the reason for it isn't obvious, figure it out before you change anything. Once you understand that...

Your principle of feeding one subpanel off another has merit.  However you must bridge over all the wires together - two hots, neutral and ground.  You never pull over a hot and have its partner wires return via a different route, For a variety of reasons.   This means if one wire in a cable run is dead, the whole cable run is useless and must be taken out of service entirely.

But I wouldn't focus on the cross-connection yet.  I'd try to save this setup.  I'm betting it's a termination problem not yet found - it's unusual for wires to just fail.

The bigger problem is: This work was all installed at once, right?  Whatever damaged one thing could well be damaging others.  Did you find corrosion on the connections you serviced?  They're all that way.  Don't wait til they fail, because a neutral failing is especially bad news.

As a temporary workaround, like, to get you to the weekend when you can fix this, you might move your 120V loads to the breaker spaces that are working.  If you need more breakers, either share breakers (when legal) or buy duplex breakers.

I find almost all such problems are with terminations, perhaps in a splice box you haven't found yet.  Don't just tighten lugs, de-energize it and take it all apart and really give it a once-over and fastidious cleaning.  If it's aluminum wire (AA-8000-series is legal and OK), apply the anti-oxidation goop.  Only then, look at the cable itself.

Somebody who puts in 600A service doesn't cheap out on the installation.  There's a good chance your cable run is in conduit, which is designed to make cable replacement easy.  On the other hand, it surprises me that cable would fail in conduit, so I'd be concerned maybe something penetrated the conduit, damaging both conduit and wire.  Any wire damage seems vanishingly unlikely under a foundation, far more likely in a more accessible place (perhaps a recently accessed place - had any diggers around lately?)

And by the way, it's possible to splice underground direct-burial cable.

If the cable is in conduit, easily replacing wire is the whole point of conduit.  They spent extra money as insurance for this situation - use it!  Validate that the conduit is physically intact (not collapsed). The techy way is to energize the bad wire (only) and use a detector to find the wire break (by looking for EMFs).  That tells you how far down to send a borescope (a plumber will have that if an electrician doesn't).

A low-tech way to inspect conduit is to disconnect the wire bundle at both ends and pull it an inch and see if it gives more than the normal resistance. The "Alexander the Great"** method is to pull the entire bundle, inspect, maybe borescope, fish and pull it back in, and see what happens.  Mind you, this is not to continue the old wire bundle in service - but merely to use it as a "test dummy" to test whether the conduit is pullable.  If there are any defects in the wire, replace all of them unless it is extremely clear what went wrong.

If the conduit is intact and the wire is bad, this is routine: pull and replace the wires.  That job is easier with specialized tools an electrician will have those on his truck.

Wires don't just randomly fail in conduit. This for sure: whatever killed the one phase threatens the others.  You'll want to know what that is.


How to clean inside wrought iron handrail on saircase

Assuming the railing is painted, you should use a brush that isn't too abrasive. I'd start with soap and hot water along with a scrub brush like you'd use on pots and pans (with natural or synthetic fibers). You can add chemical household cleansers if needed.

To fully refinish the railing, you'll want a wire brush. Use this to clear off any flaking paint or flaking rusty areas, as well as scour the entire surface to prepare it for a new layer of paint. Clean with a mild solution of water and soap, let dry, and cover with a primer/paint designed for metal. I'd recommend a spray, because you can find primer+paint products designed to seal over light rust, which is often a concern on iron railings. But you can also use a brushed primer/paint as long as the directions indicate it's OK for metal.


Wall plate and subfloor repair in bathroom

Firstly, protect your bathtub. Scratches don't heal, and repairs aren't easy or cheap. Tape cardboard or heavy paper over the face and top surfaces, then lay blankets or towels over that.
Secondly, the wall plate doesn't necessarily need replacement. After your floor repair is complete, replace that short block with a fresh one. That'll provide adequate backing for drywall. There are no structural concerns with such a small area of damage.
Regarding the floor repair, I can't be too specific until we see what's under there, but the process looks like this:

Cut out the subfloor with whatever tools you have on hand. A circular saw set to depth, a reciprocating saw, and a sharp chisel can all be effective. Be careful not to damage the joists or any utility hardware below. Cuts should go no deeper than about 1/8" into the framing. Use a square to make right angles so that your patches are rectangular. This makes fitting a new piece easier.
Where your patch edges don't land on joists, add two-by blocking. This can be one of two things: Blocks sistered onto or spanning between joists; blocks floated under the edge of the remaining subfloor. They should be securely screwed to other framing where possible.
Place the subfloor patch, screwing it to all available backing. All edges should be supported.

At all points of contact, use 2-1/2" or 3" gold construction screws (not drywall screws, which are brittle), and construction adhesive, which bolsters connections and eliminates most noise. Don't rely on just adhesive for any connection, though.


How to connect my new light fixture that has 2 (+ground) wires to the ceiling box that has many?

While most people can make educated guesses about what the coloring means on electrical wires, I would suggest using a multimeter to actually test the wires and through a process of elimination, determine your live wire, the return, and ground wires.  Too many ceiling boxes are wired oddly to have confidence in guesses based on wire color.

The live wire will have a proper voltage reading (in AC) to the other two bundles when the switch is on.  The return wire will have a proper voltage reading (in AC) to the live wire, when the switch is on, and will have no voltage reading (in AC) when the switch is off.  The ground wires should have a proper voltage read to the positive regardless of the switch position.

If you can't identify which wires in your outlet using the above rules, odds are something is really off with your wiring, and you probably should call in a professional.

Keep in mind that testing live wires can be very dangerous, so you need to take proper precautions.  If you don't know what those are, call a professional.


Is running an extension cord above a gutter safe?

It is not terribly safe, though weaving it over/under supports as they did at least helps to make sure it won't go flying around.
Temporary installations like holiday lights are always a bit of a problem. A few things to help mitigate potential problems:

GFCI - This is probably the most important thing. GFCI is now required for outdoor receptacles but many older houses don't have GFCI in all now-required locations (aka "grandfathered").
Grounding - It should be a 3-wire cord, plugged into a functioning 3-wire receptacle (though if the receptacle does not have a functioning ground pin but is GFCI protected then that will cover most scenarios where grounding would otherwise make a difference.) Except, as pointed out by Ed Beal, if the lights are all 2-wire (no ground) then ground wire on the extension cord is absolutely useless. But I would discourage 2-wire extension cords anyway because they tend to be thin junk.
Make sure the extension cord is secured well.
Make sure the extension cord is properly rated. It should be designed for outdoor use (some are, many are not). It should be able to handle the necessary current (Amps). Any standard extension cord, by definition, can be plugged into a 15A receptacle and therefore carry up to 15A without tripping a breaker. But many (generally not designed for outdoor use, and often not grounded) are actually not appropriate for 15A usage. On the other hand, with modern LED lights, a whole house of holiday lights will typically use only a few Amps (often less than 1 Amp).
Every year before installation check for breaks in the cord. If you find small breaks but the inner insulation looks good then tape it up well with electrical tape (not duct tape). If you find large breaks or the inner insulation is damaged, replace it.


1/4" metal pin through a 2x4: unthreaded t-nut or metal sleeve to prevent fretting (wear from small movements)?

Buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B002WC8TQ6 screw it in, and drill out the interior threads.


How can I open my garage door from the outside with a dead opener?

Some models include a lock cylinder on the garagedoor. Typically it is in the top panel. Insert the key (hopefully you have it) and the lock should come out when turned. A length of cord will be attached to the back of the lock. Pulling the cord releases the door from the opener and allows it to be opened manually.


What should I do about a pin hole leak in pvc water pipe?

Your best bet to fix the leak is to turn off the water, drain the line, and then cut out the bad section and replace with some new glued in fittings and pipe pieces.


Can I hang a 100lb punching bag from this joist?

I wouldn't call that a joist, I'd call that a tie. A joist is something supporting a floor, designed to take vertical loads in bending. A tie is something designed to take tension loads, in this case that tie is there to stop the roof spreading sideways at its base.

Now, just because it is a tie doesn't mean it can't also take some vertical load. In fact, it looks like there may be a vertical member running from the roof ridge down to this tie, which in all likelihood does bring some vertical load down onto the member.

So the important question is "What spare capacity is there for vertical loading on this member?". If you put bending load into a member, you reduce its capacity for axial force. So in order to answer, we'd need to know:

the member size (breadth, depth and length; easy for you to measure)
the wood type
the current axial load on the member (very difficult without knowing the whole roof structure)
the current vertical load on the member (very difficult without knowing the whole roof structure) and its position on the member

We really can't answer all of this over the internet. You could employ a structural engineer if you want, though this might be overkill. But, never fear, I have a solution!

I'd be happy to expect the walls to be able to take an extra 100lbs. So what we want to do is, instead of risking overloading the tie and destroying your roof, put in a new joist specifically to take your punching bag. You can take a flyer and just buy one if you want, or you can try and do some engineering calculations for it, to make sure you get a big enough one. There are a few questions on here about joist design, if you search for them.


Is there any reason to not tape this vent over?

Whether you tape it or otherwise block it, the effect will be the same and it will not cause any damage to your system; it would be no different than if there was a standard register there that was closed.
The only thing I'll note is that duct tape will eventually dry up and fall off.  Ideally you would use foil HVAC tape

(source: homedepot.ca)
Unlike duct tape, this will not dry up and will hold the seal.


Is there a missing ground wire in my pedestal service circuit?

You are being written up for a missing Equipment Grounding Conductor (EGC) which is the ground wire that goes with hots and neutrals in every circuit or feeder.
The thing between this meter-main and your house is feeder not service wire.  Above the meter is service wire.   Feeder requires EGC, service does not.
What I see
is 200A service coming from the top.
I see a bare wire that is part of the Grounding Electrode System which bonds the meter-main chassis itself to local grounding rods.   However this is not an EGC ("ground wire") and does not go anywhere an EGC needs to go.
I see the main feeder going into the lower pipe in 3 wires.  I see no ground wire (EGC), so yeah, the inspector got it right.
Fire your electrician.  What were they thinking?
If the power company installed this feeder, that would be why. They follow a different codebook (NESC) and they're not used to working in NEC rules.  They make this mistake all the time.
Some people think that if the pole has a ground rod (GES) and the house has a ground rod (GES), they don't need a ground wire (EGC) also, because there's dirt between the two.  Um... dirt doesn't conduct electricity that well :)
What to do
You will need to add an appropriate sized ground wire to the pipe.  If the hot wires are exactly #2/0 Copper or #4/0 Aluminum, you can use a #6 Cu or #4 Al ground wire.  (However, if the hot wires are larger than that, the ground must also be larger, forcing you to #4 Cu or #2 Al).
The added wire can't exceed conduit fill limits.  The ground wire can be bare if it's copper, which helps with conduit fill.  It's OK to use aluminum hots + copper ground.
You can fish just the wire if you can successfully get a fishing tape down that conduit with the wires in there.  If not, you'll have to pull the 3 wires and then pull them back in with the 4th wire.


What could be causing a dripping noise in the ceiling?

You sure it's a drip and not just the ducts popping from expansion and contraction? Post a video with sound. Generally one doesn't start opening walls until a leak is confirmed. Apply presser to the register when it's making this noise, if it stops it is just your ducts popping. To high of a velocity across the coil could carry water into the ductwork, but this probably isn't your problem if the offending register is any great amount of distance from the unit.


Where can I find a replacement green colored porcelain toilet?

I found this place on the net that has a lot of vintage plumbing. They had some green sinks and soap dishes and a pink toilet.

I didn't see a green toilet, but it looks like they do a lot of salvage work and their inventory changes frequently. Might be worthwhile to drop them an e-mail and have them notify you if one comes in.

Historic House Parts

Also, you could try online classified sites like e-bay. Here is an add for a turquoise/green toilet.

As to the thought of installing a monstrosity like that, may God have mercy on your soul. =)


How to flatten a plywood subfloor for tile?

Yes, your plan sounds perfectly fine, initially. But, that deep of a divot for such a small area is concerning to me. I'd take the plywood up or drill an inspection hole in the ceiling below to see what's going on.

To me it sounds like it could be 1 of 3 things:

1- The plywood is cracked & therefore compromised, so it should be cut-out & replaced in that area. But, it would be very obviously bouncy or spongy.

2- A joist was installed incorrectly & is sagging down. But, the sag area is way too small.

3- The joist could be a cracked, which will only crack your new tile immediately or eventually. This may or may not reflect upon the ceiling below.

It's just very uncommon in newer construction to have such an odd deflection without a physical problem being the cause. Otherwise, fill & level at your own peril.


Can a non-expandable filter be used in place of an EZ flex furnace filter?

As long as the replacement fits without gaps (which would allow air to bypass the filter) will be "OK" to use.

Whether the replacement filter meets your needs (besides cost) depends on the effective size and screening size.  It may be hard to compare these factors with discount filters

The effective size of a deeply pleated filter means you get a larger filter that will clean longer.

The screen size of the paper relates to how small a particle the filter removes.  Its a tradeoff, because super fine filters (pollen level) will clog faster.


From your statement it sounds like knocking out plaster and fishing some 14/4 cable is out of the question.

Yes, but you'll need a very particular smart switch to do it.

First, the smart switch must work without neutral, and you must partner this with bulbs it can do that with.  Incandescents work of course, CFLs are a dead technology, and only certain LEDs like to work with no-neutral smart switches.

Second, the smart switch will need to support and work with a wireless remote switch, either battery operated or powered by whatever power you can get to that location.  Presumably the remote switch would use radio to communicate with the controlling switch.

There are a variety of smart products on the market like this, specifically because people like you have problems like these.  We're not a "shop for me" site (the info goes stale too fast for our encyclopedic format) so I can't be much help picking brands.

It sounds like trying to pull /3 or /4 Romex would be a real problem for you. For what it's worth, the rules for running low-voltage wiring are easier.  If you can manage to get thermostat wire to the switch locations, you could use low voltage either for a relay controlled switch circuit or just for the entire lighting circuit.  LEDs are so efficient that you can get usefully bright light from low voltage LED "bulbs".


How can I prevent water from puddling on a shower ledge?

Short of recasting the tub I can only think of one solution:  Water always flows downhill, so if you can get some shims under that end of the tub to elevate it enough that water flows away from the wall you're set.  Otherwise invest in a squeegee and wipe the ledge diligently after using the shower.


You are conflating two very different issues:
Quality of DIFFERENT models
Different models of faucets made by the same company, sold at wildly different prices, may have the same internal components that determine longevity and functional quality, with differences in pricing due to other issues such as style, outer coatings, etc. Or they may really have functional differences - e.g., plastic vs. metal components. They may also sell specific models (with minor or major differences between them) at big box stores (often want an "exclusive model" so they don't have to price-match the same model sold elsewhere), plumbing supply houses (selling to tradespeople who don't need fancy boxes but who (hopefully) care about functionality, ease of repair, etc.) and other types of retailers, including online stores.
The same types of differentiation applies across many different industries including (at times) appliances, clothing, mattresses (a classic - I remember one store used to have a huge computerized list of all the equivalent mattress models because each of the companies would private-label for each retailer, but they were mostly just different tags), etc.
It is pretty much impossible for any random person on the internet to tell you which particular models are "best", because the models change frequently, the specifications don't tell the whole story and personal preference (I may put more "value" on feature than you do).
Pricing of the SAME Model
MSRP = Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price. The vendor (big box store, plumbing supply house, online store, etc.) can charge whatever they want. With many types of products, the MSRP is artificially high - often easily 2x the price that a retailer will pay if they purchase in volume (truckloads at a time). Some retailers will charge very low markup, hoping that they will make their profit on other things - e.g., a computer retailer might make more money on a $ 19.99 cable (that wholesales for $ 1) than on a $ 499.99 printer. Some retailers charge a fairly consistent markup (e.g., 20%, 30%, 50%, etc.) across much of their product lines. That gross profit helps to cover things like returns (which is often easy in some stores and nearly impossible in others), service, support, overhead, etc. - all of which vary dramatically from store to store.


I want to put a 4’X8’ platform in my garage to hoist stuff up

If you have a hand framed roof with a non-structural ridge beam and you want to cut the rafter ties, then you will need to add collar ties. The rafter/collar ties are in tension, so you need one or the other to prevent the roof from collapsing in on itself and pushing the exterior walls out. The other option is to add a structural ridge beam for at least that 8' section, but that's not an ideal solution.

If you have a hand framed roof with a structural ridge beam, then there is a chance you don't need rafter/collar ties at all. It depends on what it looks like up there.

If you have engineered roof trusses with metal gussets, then it gets a little more tricky. An engineer would definitely need to get involved.

If you upload some pictures we might be able to help you size it, but more than likely you'll need to contact a contractor or engineer in your area.


This might not be any major insight but at least some food for thought.

I think when the efficiency pays for the submersible quickly, it's a no-brainer - you want the submersible.

The submersible is generally better made, benefits from running cool, tolerates debris, generally low maintenance.

When you do have to service it, the submersible is a pain because you have to pull it out of the ground, but the jet pump is a pain because you have to prime it.  I'll call that a tie.

Like so many things it comes down to time and money.  The submersible is higher initial cost, the jet pump is higher ongoing cost.  In some cases where it doesn't run much and electricity is cheap, the submersible may never pay for itself over the life of the pump.  But it sounds like in your case you won't have to wait long for the payoff.

In some industrial settings I see people not even think about the cost of the electricity - that comes out of someone else's budget and they want the cheapest possible up front cost, period.  Of course there are situations where someone can't afford the better pump today, so they have to take the cheaper option.

But in your case it's a fast payoff so I think the choice is clear, get the submersible.


First off, verify the two wires twisted together are really grounded and not just some addition that hasn't been completed. If they are grounds, then yes, connect a copper wire to the two twisted together, use appropriate wire nuts, and the other end to the ground screw on the outlet.

The wire the previous owner attached, is it in conduit with a metal box? if so, it might be grounded, you'd have to check that. The metal box you're installing will not be grounded unless you connect to conduit that is grounded or to cable that has a ground wire. Just going from a metal box to the ground on an outlet will not ground it.


How can I reattach a ceramic towel bar end bracket to a ceramic tile wall?

It appears to me that the towel bar may have been originally attached using tile grout. It should have been installed with tile mortar, and could have been grouted after the mortar was set. Mortar creates a much stronger bond.

Considering that you probably don't have mortar on hand, I'd swing by your local tile store and ask what they have in a small squeeze tube that would work. Otherwise, construction adhesive, pure silicone, or other household adhesives rated for moist areas would do as well.

You'll then want to caulk or grout around the base to help keep water out and create a finished appearance.


The nearest match in Unbrako's product line is probably the "socket head shoulder screw" but its not an exact match.


Blower motor turns on before furnace heats up all the way

No, that sounds like it's running correctly. If you want to adjust the timing, you can install an On Delay Timer on your circulation fan. You can use the ICM251 Fan Blower Control - Dual On/Off Delay Timer. It has an Adjustable Time Delay, and a 20 amp 120 volt relay built in. The On delay lets air reach proper level prior to energizing fan, and the off delay purges ducts of residual air to increase efficiency.


How do I pressure test a natural gas line and what do the valve pressure ratings mean?

The standard pressure test for new natural gas or propane pipe in my area (NW Oregon) is something anyone can do.  Same for installing the gas line.  (Why are there so many naysayers on a DIY forum?  This is not rocket science:   Just a few new skills to learn.)

Before installing the gas pipe, I consulted with a pro (paid $80 for an hour of onsite questions).  He had some good tidbits and some not so great.  The best bit of advice was that to prevent leaks, make every connection with no more than two or three threads showing.  Since there were 105 connections, this was a heavy duty workout over several days.  Using yellow Teflon tape makes turning much easier—as does a 16 inch pipe wrench.  The joint's seal is formed by the pipe and fitting being forced together and then settling (which takes hours to days).  By turning until only 1 to 2 threads (out of 10) remain revealed, there was no leakage.

(The worst bit of "pro" advice was that he would have routed the pipe through the garage in the most obnoxious way.  It would have been convenient to install, but a royal pain in the ass to live with afterwards.  Instead, we opted to bore two holes through the garage foundation into the crawlspace and kept 98% of the pipe neatly out of the way.)

To leak test, obtain a $10 gauge as pictured  (for black pipe) and install it somewhere on the pipe.  In my case, I put it at the top of the riser pipe for the range.  I explicitly ran 3/4 inch all the way to the range to suit the gauge, which has a nice benefit of smooth generous flow even when all the burners and ovens are on.  (Total extra cost was less than $20 over 1/2 inch pipe, and no perceptible increase in hassle.)

Since every appliance has an independent cut off valve, I closed all those and the gas meter shutoff valve, used a bicycle tire pump to pressurize the system to 30 psi and waited.  If the whole system does not hold pressure for hours and hours, there is a leak somewhere.  At the end, the worst leak offender was the test gauge itself.  I had to clean the needle valve and use gobs of Teflon tape to get it down to reasonable levels—on the tire valve thread into the tester body, on the gauge stem's thread into the body, and a great deal of tape for the gas pipe going into the tester.  For preliminary tests I tried temporary caps at the appliance feeders and those were exceedingly leaky—the pipe caps don't seem to fit tapered pipe because they lacked enough thread depth.  The valves on the appliance flex hoses didn't leak at all.

Once I was satisfied that 30 psi didn't leak significantly, taking five days to drop to 22 psi (demonstrably through the test gauge), I called for inspection.  The mechanical inspector walked in, saw 22 psi and said "you pass" without looking at another thing.  According to the test standards (see 406.4), it has to hold pressure for 10 minutes with no perceptible drop and he had no idea if I pumped it up just as he arrived or hours before.  So much for inspection insuring safety.

  For the nibco valve, does that mean that it would be able to withstand up to 600 PSI of (cold) air/gas pressure, but should only be used as a main shutoff for up to 5 PSI, and an appliance shutoff where the working pressure is less than 1/2 PSI?

Yes.

  Should the other shutoff valves rated at 1/2 or 5 be able to withstand the 4 PSI of the pressure test?

Yes.

  I plan to do the pressure test at about 4 PSI, with a gauge that reads up to 15 PSI. Should I cap off the lines before the shutoff valves (to avoid stressing valves, but not test them), or close the shutoff valves and remove the caps on the traps so that excess pressure leaking through valves would be vented instead of damaging the appliance regulators.

Why not be thorough?  If there is a leak at 4 PSI, it will be very difficult to assess.  Run the test at the maximum test gauge reading.

  My house's regulator is set at 7" of water column, gauge pressure, and I need to test at a minimum of 3 PSI-gauge, and I'm located in Indiana, United States.

That is standard residential delivery, same as mine.


Water based clear protective finish coarse first coat

As implied by @keshlam in his comment, you should do some reading about finishing wood floors with waterborne finishes.

waterborne finishes are typically applied in several thick coats, it is especially important on woods that are prone to raised grain; the thick coats will bury the raised grain.
for large areas, water based varnish is most often applied with synthetic applicator pads, working quickly to maintain a wet edge. A brush is used along edges and in corners.
required large area sanding between coats is often accomplished using a stand-up random-orbit vibrating sander specifically designed for use on flooring. Supplemented by use of a hand-held sander along edges and corners.

You should visit a good paint shop near you, much advice can be had. Often these shops rent the equipment needed as well.


Can I add foam board insulation to my tiny house to increase energy efficiency?

Although it can' t answer the question for the best solution,
a fast and easy method for simulation is offered on the site
www.ubakus.com.
The very important parameters dew points,  moisture and drying time can be seen in seconds, thus disclosing any critical layer combination that could effect the health and damage the walls.
R value, phase shifting and more are also calculated and displayed.
Best way is to open an example and change/add layers. Each layer can be easily switched on/off to instantly see any change. Toggling  between R- value/U- value is done by clicking on the tool icon next to the result.
It is free for private use.


What advanced features are available for sprinkler systems?

Some additional things to consider:

1) You could put a flow detector in the water line that feeds to the input side of the sprinkler valves. This way you could detect when one of the sprinkler valve has failed to work according to plan. I.E. if you detect flow when you expect the valve to be off that means there is a problem.

2) You could add timer / calendar features to your microcontroller so that you can setup a watering schedule. It could very well be that some of your sprinkler zones do not need watering every day. Secondly many times in summer certain localities may impose watering restrictions to certain week days or odd/even schedule according to house number. You would want your controller to be able to comprehend that.

3) A water controller can often be extended to assist in automating the process of keeping a bird bath, fountain or swimming pool properly filled to account for evaporation. Adding some level switch inputs to the microcontroller hardware can make it easy to regulate when the water fill operation should be started and completed. Such filling and monitoring can still be applied to a schedule as in 2) above.

4) You could add in circuitry to detect the current flow going to the sprinkler valves. Detecting no current when you've turned on the valve can indicate that the wires to the valve have become disconnected or broken. Detecting excessive current can indicate that the wiring has been damaged and the conductors going to the valve have become shorted together.

5) Many times home owners will have landscape accent lighting or sidewalk/driveway perimeter lighting. A controller of the type that you are proposing can easily be extended to provide automated turn on/off for such lighting according to a schedule.

6) And if you go so far as to implement lighting control you can extend that to schedule the on/off cycling of other seasonal lighting such as outside Christmas lights.


Wiring 4-wire Electric Range - Can I use these connectors?

If you have 3 wires coming from the wall (hot hot neutral, no ground), then you hook the wires to the 3 terminals that you see.  Note the odd little strap linking the neutral stud to the chassis of the range.  It is "grounded" to neutral.  Any fault with the neutral wire will energize the chassis at one of the hot voltages.  Yikes.

If you have 4 wires coming from the wall (with ground), a little work is required, but this increases safety. First you remove that odd little strap, as you will be connecting neutral and ground separately.  Then you attach the ground wire to that green terminal you just removed the strap from.  That lug in your photo is a fine method to do that!  Then you connect hot-neutral-hot to the 3 studs, much like the above.

The T&B lug connectors in your question are certainly good for 40A.  UL would not let them label for #8 wire if they were not good for 40A.  They are undoubtedly a good choice for ground wire. For "hot" wires, after torquing their screw to spec, I would wrap them with shrink tubing or electrical tape.

I agree with 'Bat that the T&B connectors are a little concerning as far as hitting the chassis or something else.  That compartment doesn't apear to have a cover, and they seem awfully exposed.  See how they fit (you are sure to be able to use one) and make a judgment call.  As far as the ring terminals he is recommending, you will need larger ones that fit on #8 wire.  They do make those, but not necessarily insulated.  Then you can shrinkwrap them with shrink tubing.  Just use black.

Uninsulated is good, though, as you can solder them with a nice large soldering iron, not the electronics pencil types but either the inductive gun type or the really big 16" long types.  For the solder, go out of your way to find old fashioned lead solder (non-RoHS; RoHS compliant unleaded solder will crystallize over 10-20 years, it is a death sentence for any eelctronics built that way). Do not use plumbing solder, it's acid core and not lead.

On a 3-wire connection, the neutral is so important that I would not trust a ring crimp terminal alone.  I would use one of the T&B lug connectors, it doesn't matter if that makes contact with chassis.


Can I replace hydronic water boiler return pipes with pex?

Here in Italy pex is widely used for new heating system (both radiators and underfloor), just check the maximum allowed temperature is high enough (I'd say over 120°C) and you could use it for both flow and return. The story is different if your heating is steam.

The slope could be there because originally it was naturally-circulated hot water (hot water) system with no pump, only the (relatively low) specific gravity of hot water 'moviing' the system.

In my opinion, if your new boiler have a circulating pump, you could hide your pipes anywhere and replace them with PEX


What's the best way to mark wallboard for electrical box openings?

You have to measure really accurately with this. With drywall you might be able to go with a rough location and cut the edges while the board is held or lightly screwed into the wall, but that probably won't work with something as rigid as plywood.

The opening in the wallboard should be sized to the electrical box. Then the cover plate helps you hide any gaps. One handyman tip is that they sell extra-large cover plates to help hide sloppier cuts!

You can also buy tools designed to help mark these cuts:
https://www.amazon.com/Calculated-Industries-8105-Drywall-Electrical/dp/B00YX8KZGO/
or
https://www.amazon.com/HandyMark-Drywall-Marker-2-Pack-HM1002-BF/dp/B000V5MPZM/

One last idea if your cuts are significantly off is to replace the electrical boxes. You can get old-work boxes that attach to the wallboard (rather than structure). Just trace the outline of the box onto the wallboard and cut. I like to use an oscillating saw for this.


Why do I have multiple voltages, power spikes, and other issues with my electric service?

You have an open or compromised service neutral.

PLEASE call your power company immediately to have them check their connections.

It is also very possible you'll need an electrician to check/repair/replace the terminations in the meter pan.

I have to ask, do you own this house? If not then calling your landlord is your ONLY option.


What can be safely attached to a gas furnace cabinet?

The external surfaces of the furnace and ductwork are not hot enough to be a fire hazard with the items you listed. As we don’t know if this is a newer sealed combustion system or older gas vented system you would need to stay away from a vent they can be hot.
I would not hang heavy items like gallons of anything even if magnets could hold them the duct’s are not designed for this but light loads I don’t see a problem.
I probably would not put even 409 or any chemicals there I had one customer that used the main trunk line to the registers as a shelf. The heat cool cycles caused spray bottles to dribble when the heat was running the air in the bottles expanded dribbled on the duct and one of the bottles had a cleaner  that dissolved the galvanized coating and it started rusting. (My guess it was a slightly acidic cleaner as even vinegar will dissolve galvanized coatings).
I was able to clean the rust and use cold galvanizing spray to stop the rust she then put the stuff on a raised tray and that stopped the dribbling.
You don’t want stuff dribbling down the side.
I don’t see a problem with dryer balls anti static sheets or hanging a broom by magnets and would not expect any problems because of the magnets.


Yes, you can purchase a remote control module that will allow you to independently control the fan and the light. Most modules only require a hot, neutral, and ground wire to operate.

Here's a wiring diagram from a random fan remote, installation guide (PDF).

The receiver gets power from the house wiring, then determines which leads to energized based on the buttons pressed on the remote.


Trying to secure a 100lbs floor mirror so it doesn't tilt over. is it possible to do this without a stud?

My preferred anchors in drywall for heavier loads are the newer toggle strap types.

These have a steel brace that rests inside the wall, spreading te load over about 3 inches. They also have the benefit of allowing you to remove and reinstall the bolt, which older toggles didn't allow.

The toggle is installed through a hole, usually 3/8 or 1/2 inch. The straps are slid to rotate the toggle bar until it is perpendicular to the wall. the Toggle is insterted and the straps are then slid back turning the bar parallel to the back of the drywall. The straps are pulled forward and the collar is pushed in to the face of the drywall, locking hte toggle in place. The excess straps are then broken off, and the toggle is ready for a bolt. (It reads loger than it takes.)

Rigid Attachment

You can drill holes in the mirror frame and into the wall to mark where the toggle should go. Once the toggle is installed, you can bolt throught those holes to lock the mirror to the wall. If the mirror is resting on the floor, only two toggles should be needed near the top.

Loose Attachment

You also could attach the mirror to the toggles using heavy duty braided picture wire.  Insert two heavy hookeyes into the back of the frame. You can make an attachment point for the wire at the toggle bolt using a piece of perforated metal strapping, or an S hook bent to close the loops. Put the bolt through this attachment point and into the toggle. Tighten. Then loop the wire through the wall attachment point and the hookeys and close the loop with several twists of wire.

This second method is not meant to hold the mirror tight to the wall, just to provide a leash if it were to tip forward. Again, two toggles should be sufficient.

Links and images are for illustration only and are not endorsements of products or services.


What are the iron bars and threaded rods sticking up out of my backyard?

It’s a modified type of “sheet piling” used for earth retention/ engineering.

I’d guess there is (was) some slope at your site that the previous home owner wanted to control. I’d guess that they started a project and then abandoned it because it looks like some preliminary site work.

If you remove it, be careful as it could loosen some surrounding areas that could start moving.

The threaded rods are obviously set for future connections, building, equipment, shoring, retaining, etc.

It will be difficult to cut off, based on its size and shape. (The curved connections between the flanges and web indicate it’s structural steel...probably A36 steel, minimum.)


Will I get electrocuted when I am above the first floor of a building?

You are not safe from electrocution just because you are on the 3rd floor.

Electrical ground can be anything conductive (like the chassis of another grounded appliance you are leaning on). So it doesn't matter where you are but what else you are touching.

To be safe you need to install a ground fault protection device that will shut off the power when it detects that some current doesn't go through the designated return path.


In Germany, should Ground and Neutral be connected at the main service panel?

It depends on the supply to that property and its earthing arrangements. It could potentially be TNC, TNC-S, TN-S or TT

If it has an earth spike like you suggested it is probably a TT system. It is important you understand the distinction and I suggest you look up those earthing arrangements mentioned above they are well documented with diagrams.

In TT systems the earth neutral must not be bonded together at any point in the installation. The Live and Neutral alone make their way back to the transformer while the earthing will make its way outside the building separately and onto an earthing spike.

NOTE:
The following paragraph I have block quoted and this paragraph is a disclaimer against it as it would appear subjective and only anecdotal in the experience of this region. As another user pointed out they have experienced the opposite in regard to the TT systems being historic. It does not alter the overall answer for the user who asked the question. However, I feel it adds context to the region so have left it as is.

  "It should be pointed out that TT systems are a historic system and
  the trend is to phase them out as much as possible as the impedance
  path to earth can sometimes be so poor that it affects the ability of
  the system to earth the system correctly."

So no the Neutral and Earth should not be bonded to each other and secondly no your sub panel should not have its own spike it should be connected to the main earthing bar within the property that will then in turn connect to the earthing spike. This is important because you don't want multiple and different impedance paths to ground. With a TNS/TNC system the supplier provides you with the earthing arrangement for you and will guarantee a (ZE) value.


Single Neutral for Several Smart Switches

Keep 'em separated

Since you have two subpanels feeding this setup (one for each "side"/half), you'll need to make sure that the switches for each side have a neutral return back to the corresponding subpanel, and only the corresponding subpanel.  In other words, the two left-side switches have a neutral wire going back to the left-side subpanel, and the two right-side switches have a neutral wire going back to the right-side subpanel.

Cross-coupling the two smart-switch-neutrals in your setup violates 300.3(B)/310.10(H) and creates a neutral current loop that causes inductive heating of metal parts (like your raceways and boxes) as well as magnetic field EMI due to the loop area of the current (old-school picture tubes were susceptible to this in particular).

Neither of these neutrals needs to join with the light fixture neutrals on its side until the subpanel neutral bar, though.  The smart-switches are loads of their own (to power the "brains"), and running an extra neutral homerun in the same cable, conduit, or raceway is OK by code, as per 300.3(B) (otherwise, /2/2 NM wouldn't be Code legal, for that matter):

  (B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of
  the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor
  and all equipment grounding conductors and bonding con-
  ductors shall be contained within the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or
  cord, unless otherwise permitted in accordance with
  300.3(B)(1) through (B)(4).

Load isn't a concern here, but Code is

The primary concern for multiplexed neutrals is having multiple hots on the same phase return via the same neutral, which causes the currents on that neutral to be the sum of the currents on the various hots.  In this situation, though, that isn't a concern as smart switches don't draw much power at all.

However, technically speaking, unless you punch the circuits down as such to have currents cancel (i.e. a MWBC -- such things do exist in the three phase wye world, whether they are two-phase/three-wire or three-phase/four-wire), your proposal violates 200.4(A):

  (A) Installation. Neutral conductors shall not be used for
  more than one branch circuit, for more than one multiwire
  branch circuit, or for more than one set of ungrounded
  feeder conductors unless specifically permitted elsewhere
  in this Code.


3-way light switch mysteriously works, then stops working, then starts working again

Normal 3-ways are wired like this

Your first part suggests a 3-way circuit where one of the switches is miswired.
There is such a thing as 3+ switches on a 4-way circuit.  Thise switches are added to the middle, and take 2 yellows on one side and 2 yellows on the other side.  They either send them straight through, or swap them.
I use yellow for travelers because they are a matched pair that are interchangeable.  Practical 3-way wiring with cable forces you to use 2 of the 3 available wire colors for travelers, and it can be different on every wire run.  As such, I recommend removing all uncertainty by marking them with yellow tape.  It makes complicated things dog simple.


Roofing nails protruding in attic dripping with condensation

Roofing ails are supposed to protrude, at least a bit. That's how they achieve much of their pullout resistance. It's a bit odd that they didn't before.

Feel free to stick whatever you like on them to protect your head. If they're dripping that much, though, you're sorely lacking in attic ventilation. Protecting the nails doesn't do anything for the wood throughout the attic.


Key question is: How many phone lines do you have?

If you have one phone line then you only need 2 wires - one pair. This will normally be red & green on the jack and a colored pair of wires from the wall.

If you have two phone lines then you need 4 wires - two pairs. This will normally be red & green on the jack for one line, black & yellow on the jack for the second line and two colored pairs from the wall.

With normal phone service (POTS), you can have the wires in a pair reversed without a problem. However, you need to make sure the pairs themselves are not mixed up.

You can reuse the existing wall jack. But I highly recommend getting a new jack like Leviton 40249-W Standard Telephone Wall Jack, 6P4C, Screw Terminals, White. With a new jack that uses screw terminals you will not need any special tools to connect the wires - just strip the ends and screw in place. A wall jack will require either an electrical box or a box eliminator (a metal or plastic "frame" that is the same size height/width as a box but no depth - just cut a rectangle and stick it in) or use a Surface Mount Jack instead.

So all you really need to figure out is 1 line or 2 and which pairs of wires from the wall go to line 1 and (if you have 2 lines) line 2.

I am assuming your VOIP is some sort of magic box (e.g., Magicjack, Vonage, etc.) that lets you connect regular phones to a VOIP line. If that is not the case then none of this wiring makes sense. With one line (no matter how many phones) you only use 2 wires (red & green) of the standard 4-wire configuration. You just need to figure out (hard for me to tell from the picture) which pair of wires connects to the red & green on the inner part of the existing jack. That pair should be connected to red & green of a new jack, screw terminals recommended. (FYI, the existing jack needs a punch tool to do it right, which phone & network installers have but the average DIY does not).

Don't worry about the mess in the basement. If/when you fix it up, if you use the same cable to this location then you won't have to change anything on this end, just in the basement.


If it is only 2" you should not be using concrete because it's not thick enough. Concrete does not bond to concrete so it will just crack over time.


Top Loader Kenmore HE Washer with VERY LOUD whirring sound, not present at purchase

It sounds like your washer needs its main bearings replaced. My top load Sears Kenmore HE washer had the bearing seals fail and allowed water to get into the bearings. Over the course of a few months the washer, in high speed cycles, sounded like a freight train passing by in the next room. It was LOUD just like you are describing.

A sure fire test to check if it is the bearings is to rotate the washer tub / agitator by hand, when the washer is OFF, for a few turns. If the rotation has a grinding or roughness feeling then it is almost for sure the bearings.

I took on the repair myself and purchased the replacement parts on line for ~50$US. It also took a special tool to press in the new roller bearings. I found out that the bearings were industry standard size roller bearings (my washer used two bearings each of which was a different size) so I went to a site that sells a bit higher quality bearings with known names than the brandless import types used in the original washer. The special tool was a bit expensive at ~85$US but made the install very easy.

My suggestion is to get your washer model number and do some Google searches. When I did that I even found that the results turned up several U-Tube videos showing the steps in the bearing removal and installation.

After the new bearings were in place washer runs better than a new one. The thing is now so quiet I'm never sure just when the last load of laundry is completed.


wire gauge for dual driven appliance (solar inverter)

The NEC has no bearing on factory wiring within listed equipment

The gauge of factory wiring in listed equipment is governed by the applicable UL standards and by the testing UL conducts in accordance to those standards (usually various temperature rise tests) as part of the listing process, not by the NEC.  This is reflected in NEC 310.1:

  310.1 Scope. This article covers general requirements for
  conductors and their type designations, insulations, markings, mechanical strengths, ampacity ratings, and uses. These
  requirements do not apply to conductors that form an integral
  part of equipment, such as motors, motor controllers, and similar equipment, or to conductors specifically provided for elsewhere in this Code.

As a result of this, we must look outside the NEC for an explanation of this.  While I have not seen explicit provisions for these sorts of potential or control taps in what I have been able to read of UL 1741, the UL 508A standard for industrial control panels contains a provision in 41.1 Exception 1 that can be used for an argument by analogy in this case:

  41.1 The conductors of a control circuit tapped off the load side of the branch circuit protective device
  shall have overcurrent protection sized in accordance with the ampacity of the control circuit conductor as
  specified in Table 28.1 and Table 38.1.

  Exception No. 1: When the control circuit is tapped off a motor branch circuit protective device and the
  control wires do not leave the industrial control panel enclosure (such as when a start-stop button is
  provided on the enclosure cover) the motor branch circuit protective device provides the required
  overcurrent protection when its rating does not exceed that specified in Table 41.1.

Given that Table 41.1 in UL 508A-2014 permits a 14AWG control tap on a motor branch circuit of up to 100A in size and a 16AWG tap on a circuit up to 40A when the conditions of Exception 1 are met, I would say that the safety case for the potential tap wiring you see in your inverter works analogously to the logic behind the above quoted exception.