Do I need to install a local ground point for a secondary consumer unit in my shed?

From your reference to "socket ring", I assume you are in the UK.  I shall use UK terms.

From the additional information you have provided in the comments, you have the easy case.  There is no long run from house to shed, so you don't have to worry about resistance in the cable reducing the short-circuit current (either live to neutral or live to earth) to the point where the fuse in the consumer unit doesn't blow.

Just use the earth wire in the cable, and export the earth from the house.  Do not attach another earth in the secondary consumer unit in the shed.

Do make sure that there is an RCD in the circuit - either in the secondary consumer unit, or at the point where the spur comes off the ring-main.  (Personally I think where the spur comes off the ring main is best, but in the shed is certainly "good enough".)

Do make sure that the spur to the shed is adequately protected by a fuse.  Note that ring mains can go up to 32A, despite the fact that they are wired in 20A cable - this is because they are only rated for 32A on the assumption that it is reasonably evenly divided over the ring - so each leg of the ring shouldn't go above 20A.  With a spur there is only one leg, so you can't rely on that - you need to limit it to 20A.  There really ought to be a 20A fuse in the FCU where the spur comes off the ring, but if the spur doesn't come off the mains in an FCU and it's difficult to install one, bunging a 20A fuse as the master fuse in the secondary consumer unit won't be strictly according to the regs, but it will get you most of the protection.


Should I install hardwood flooring under my kitchen cabinets?

In your situation, using real 3/4" hardwood flooring should be a lifetime floor. I cannot see any reason to remove it as any other type of flooring in the future could be installed right over it.  Since it is much more likely to have some type of cabinet upgrade rather than actually needing to remove the hardwood, I would install the hardwood wall to wall and install cabinets over it. The actual extra amount of hardwood used under the cabinet area is minimal, and will make installation easier and faster than working around the cabinet footprint.


Should neutral and ground wires tied together in junction box?

No.  Neutral and ground should never be tied together in a junction box.


Heating/cooling system recommendations for this small house?

For central A/C, you'll need ducts and vents.  Once you have the ducting in place anyway, you might as well use it for both your heating and cooling.

For a three floor house, you definitely want some kind of zoned system, with a thermostat on each floor.  (I wish my 2-floor house was zoned.)  You may want multiple cooling systems, or maybe one system with motorized dampers to control airflow to the various floors.  Your HVAC contractor should be able to make a reccomendation of what will work best.

Whatever you do, do not skimp on the ductwork.  Your HVAC contractor should run calculations on how big the ducts need to be.  For many home builders, HVAC is a minor concern in the bulding plan.  Make sure everything is sized correctly.  Changing ductwork after the fact is very difficult.  And if you don't have proper ducting, it won't matter how good your central heating using is.

For new construction, Geothermal is usually a good candidate.  It can provide heating, cooling, and hot water with crazy efficiency.  The installation cost is MUCH higher though.  (There are tax credits that will offset some of the cost.)  If you aren't up for geothermal, I would go for a traditional air-sourced heat pump for your heating and cooling needs.  They are pretty efficient (at least in moderate climates).  You are pretty much in the perfect lattitude for a heat pump.

However, I would not have the heat pump (air-sourced or geothermal) as your only heating system.  Some kind of alternate (non-ducted) heat source would be a good idea.  Heated floors, gas fireplace, etc.  Air-sourced heat pumps lose their efficiency in very cold weather.  And it can also be nice to have gentle air convection, vs a duct that is blowing in your face.  You also have a backup system in case your central heat fails.

That said, ducted air is nice, because some regular circulation of air in all the rooms of the house avoids that "stagnant air" smell, as well as cutting down on dust, dander, etc.

Also, central air systems give you options for humidification and de-humification of the whole house.  Look into that.  It is usually a minor cost increase in the system, but can make a major difference in comfort.


What's the term for a hole with a screw thread?

That is simply called a threaded insert.    It is either first placed into the mold, then plastic injected,  or pressed in after the plastic handle is injected.   Google images for "threaded inserts for molding".

McMaster Carr or Fastenal if you want to buy some.


How can install rafter baffle venting without removing drywall?

Typically this type of structure is properly vented already as you described it. The pitched part of the roof is typically insulated tight with a 1" sheet of foam at the roof then friction fit unfaced. Then a plastic vapor barrier then drywall. Sounds like you're doing a roof so you might consider a foam roof substrate over the pitched rafters. Your existing  Kraft face insulation could be causing tagger show because of leaks in the seams. Consider a vapor barrier paint for the interior.


As stated by OP in a comment:

I feel kinda stupid. the breaker on the panel had turned red. reset and they all WORK!!! Thank you


How should I repair a fence that's leaning due to soft soil?

The wedge is fine and will stop the post moving which would definitely worsen the hole. As long as the post is solid, the size of the hole doesn't really matter, only that there are no gaps between the post and the surrounding ground. Whether the gap is filled with concrete, stones or a wedge isn't that critical.


Gronding requirements for standby generator

That is correct

You are correct that the bonding means in the generator should be pulled in this case since your transfer switch has a solid neutral; in this case, since you have a service entrance transfer switch, your bonding means will be in the transfer switch, with the "main panel" wired as a subpanel from the transfer switch.

You are also correct that a grounding electrode conductor does not need to be run to the generator location; the equipment grounding conductor from the transfer switch to the generator is sufficient to bond the generator to the grounding electrode system.  (There's no requirement for local ground rods at the generator, by the way: NEC 250.32(A) says "building(s) or structure(s) supplied by feeder(s) or branch circuit(s)" need a grounding electrode system of their own, but your generator's not supplied by anything.)


The ordinary P trap is required to be used, as I'm quite sure that you live in an area covered by ordinary plumbing codes.
A Trap Filler AKA Trap Primer and/or a floor drain seal may also be required to protect the trap seal.
https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IPC2018/chapter-10-traps,-interceptors-and-separators#IPC2018_Ch10_Sec1002.4
IPC 1002.4 Other codes will be similar.


How to remove a cast iron pipe plug that has been soldered with lead

The pipes were sealed with lead. Prior to pouring the lead a packing material ("oakum" not sure on spelling) was packed into the joint. This material can be cut out with a screwdriver, trying to heat it would make a big mess. In most cases when I need to open a cast drain I will cut a small section out at least the diameter of the pipe but usually slightly longer. Once the section is out the pipe can wiggle and this makes removing the lead oakum seal a bit easier. I usually repair with fernco / no hubs.

The one caution cast is heavy and you have a verticle run, make sure it is supported prior to cutting or it may separate in the wall at the next joint or pull down on a toilet flange and cause a leak there. The one positive thing if you support the cast and cut in these pipes don't leak as often because the water is not sitting in the pipes.


When re-finishing wood floors with drum and edge sanders one of the last steps is to blend the two areas with a floor machine sander. The floor machine is set-up for 100 and 120 grit sanding disks. Sanding this way between the two zones will even them out and blend in appearance.


Troubleshooting a garage door/opener that "catches" and re-opens when wet

Most garage door openers have a feature that when they encounter too much resistance, they will reverse.  This is to prevent the door from trapping/crushing something that didn't get out of the way (a car, person, or your dog).  It sounds like the door isn't jamming completely, but it is just "rough" in one spot of the travel, which kicks the the opener into reverse.

Do you have the option of shutting the door manually?  In my garage, there is a latch that lets me disconnect the door from the opener, which allows me to slide it up and down by hand.  Try opening/shutting the door hand and see if it feels "tight" at the point where the opener would reverse.

If you can identify a spot where this happens, you have something off in your door/track.

If not, something is wrong with the garage door opener.

If it is the opener, some things to look at:

Some openers require periodic
lubrication of the screw drive
mechanism (not the door track).  Find
the manual for it and see if there
are any reccomendations for greasing
it.  There may also be crud in it,
preventing a smooth travel.
The electronics inside the opener
that detect a jam may be
malfunctioning.  If so, good luck
finding replacement parts.

One other things to note:  Did it suddenly get cold out?  Thermal expansion properties of the door and track can trigger problems.


Frigidaire gas range - first use. Is it packing material?

You need to read through your owners manual. Set up procedures should tell you everything you need to know.


dark brown stains in the bottom of a toilet

My mother had a cat and dumped the cat liter down the toilet. At 90+,She would sometimes forget to flush the stuff and it would cake like that. When I would find it I would use a stick to dislodge what I could, and  After much use it would dissolve and be gone.


What is the point of this doorway "header", and can I simply remove it?

Yes, you can remove that. Its purpose was solely to support drywall and whatever door or trim was installed. It is a header, just not a load-bearing variety. If it was there would be something transferring load from the plate above, and it would be taller.

Modern code aside, you may find that a pre-hung 24" door (should you find one available) slides right in after your rough opening height adjustment. If you can't find one, it's not too difficult to reduce a wider door and jamb.


I have a garage heater but I don't want it to run at all if the temperature outside is above 45 degrees

Your idea of having two thermostats will probably work, but the thermostat you are searching for might need a little help.  There are two ideas I have.  First, a heat pump system needs a thermostat outside so the compressor doesn't run when it's too cold outside.  Thermostats such as the Goodman OT18-60A perform that function.  Now, that is designed to cut off the power when the temperature is too low, but that in conjunction with a "normally on" relay might work for you.

The other thing you could search for is thermostats for pool or spa equipment.  Pool freeze protection relies on an outdoor thermostat, so you might find something there.


Hot water doesn't come out of faucet right away and makes banging noise when it does

Likely problems

Over-pressure from the street.  Solution is installing a pressure reducer just after the main shutoff.
Missing or leaking "water hammer arrestor", which is a vertical pipe with air in it or a tank with an air bladder, meant to soften sharp pressure changes.

Water temperature is not a likely candidate except at the extremes.  If you have a local tool library, or perhaps home store, they may loan out pressure gauges.


Did I just ruin the flange on our toilet?

You have probably damaged the seal between your toilet and the flange. This seal is usually formed by a wax ring that forms closely to the flange and toilet base when the toilet is installed. If you've moved the toilet significantly, you may have opened up a hole in this seal where water can leak when your toilet is draining.

It's sometimes possible to improve the seal by readjusting where you've positioned the toilet. But you probably won't have a good seal unless you fully remove the toilet, scrape out the existing wax ring, and re-seat the toilet using a new wax ring. This is definitely worth doing because a leaky wax ring can drip water into your subfloor for a long time, causing rot and other damage. Plus at the same time you can turn your flange and/or flushometer so you get a better fit between the flushometer and toilet.

You've probably only damaged the wax ring. However, if your toilet remained bolted to the flange while your friend turned it, it's possible you've damaged the seal between the flange and your drain. You should inspect that when you have the toilet up.

By the way, the fitting between your flushometer and toilet is a compression fitting. These are not designed to accommodate an angled installation -- for best results the nut needs to be perpendicular to the incoming pipe. You should try to straighten the joint, and also find a new plastic compression gasket to replace the existing worn one.


What is a proper way to support/suspend cat6 cable in a drop ceiling?

If you read up on the standards for datacom cabling, you might end up with your head spinning.  Those standards are very demanding and detailed.  They do make sense for big installations in commercial buildings, hospitals, data centers, etc.
But keep in mind, you'll also find tons of material based on partial understanding of the industry standards, and some rules that are just plain made up.
I'd focus on two things:

keeping your cables orderly and out of harms way above the ceiling
treating the cable gently, no kinks, creases, crimps, etc.,  so it performs as intended

J-hooks are a good way to take care of those two practical concerns.  The cables will just rest comfortably in the j-hooks.  If you decide to remove, replace, reroute, or add cables, the j-hooks will make it easy - you can just lift them out, and lay them back in.
If someone is working in the ceiling, and the bundle gets snagged and someone yanks on those cables, it's less likely to damage the cables - they won't be creased on something like a staple or cable tie.  And your install will satisfy most of those over-the-top standards, too.
You can screw j-hooks right to the joists.  The little screw you'll use for small j-hooks, maybe a #8, won't weaken the joist.  You can screw them into the face of the joist for bundles of cables running parallel to the joists.  You can position them so only about half an inch of the j-hook is on the joist and the rest of the j-hook hangs down below the joist.  If you need the cables running perpendicular to the joist, just bend the top half inch of the j-hook to a 90 degree angle, and screw it into the bottom of the joist.
The industry standards want you to limit the distance between j-hooks to 5'.  You can go further than that and probably never have a problem - people cut corners with this all the time in commercial installs.  Sometimes it's much easier to span 6' than 5' and unless there's someone very diligent checking the work, it goes unnoticed and nothing ever comes of it.
However in commercial buildings there's a lot more space above the drop ceiling, or you may be routing cables between bar joists 28' above the floor.  In residential basements like yours, I'd prefer as little sag as practical so the cables are out of the way.
So I'd go with more j-hooks so you have less sag.  If your joists are spaced 16" apart, you could try j-hooks 32" apart.  You'll spend a few dollars more on j-hooks but less sag makes it less likely you or someone else working up there in the future will mangle those cables.


Should I turn off my electric water heater when the water is off?

Yes, you should turn off power to the water heater, and make sure that all air is out of it before turning it back on.
Depending on its location in your house relative to various outlets, air getting into the tank may be unlikely, or very likely. But if sufficient air gets in the tank (typically from opening faucets to get a little bit of water that will dribble out, or because you forget the water is off and turn the faucet on) then the elements will burn out rather quickly from operating in air, rather than as designed in water.
Likewise, depending how long your water is off for, you may find use for the 30-50 gallons stored in a typical water heater, but in that case you surely need to make sure that air is well vented before turning it back on. That's basically opening hot taps and waiting until you get a solid stream of water, not bubbles or air, once the water supply is turned back on.


what is the best route for my shed? what amperage should I use?

A 30 amp and 60 amp two pole breaker are basically the same price.

The panel is the same price in both scenarios.

The labor to install it is practically the same.

The only difference is the price of the wire.

For 70 feet of wire price difference I wouldn't skimp on this one.

I would go for scenario #1 and have enough capacity for future expansion.

Good luck!


How should I install a bathroom exhaust fan in a 2nd floor bathroom?

You can either vent straight out or through your roof.  I don't know exactly what is above your fan but I will assume it is finished space and you are venting through the side.

In order (and note giving advice without pictures):

Figure out which way the joists are running above the bathroom.  You will be venting out which ever way you can run parallel to the joists.
You will want your fan somewhere in between the shower and the center of the room.  Traditionally the fan placement is about 1-2 feet outside of the shower area.  I am not sure what other things are in your bathroom but figure out where you want the fan.
Use a stud finder (I like the magnetic ones) to figure out where the joists are.  Cut out test hole to inspect and eventually cut out a square of drywall big enough to install the fan in between the joists.  Not trying to be a downer here but this is a bit of luck.  You don't know what is in the ceiling.  If there is some plumbing, major electric or ducts, you might have to make several cuts.
Once you have your fan placement (you have looked up into the joists knowing that you can run a 4 inch pipe to exterior) you can start removing more drywall.  You will need to remove a strip of drywall (at the joists) from fan to exterior wall, a small strip (foot wide) from fan to electric wall, and then another strip around your current light switch.  To give exacts we will need to see pictures.
Figure out what circuit you are tapping into and what it is rated for.  If it is 15A then you can use 14-3 wire and 20A you must use 12-3 wire.
Install fan in ceiling.
Run electric from switch to fan.  (Turn off electrical source first)
Wire fan.
Wire switch.  (I am assuming you will have to replace electrical box for something bigger so you would be in essence rewiring everything there - take a picture before you tear it apart)
Cut hole for exterior venting.
Run duct from fan to exterior - it should be sloped very slight down.
Cap exterior venting on outside with appropriate cap.
Insulate around venting and exterior wall.
Drywall, mud/tape, paint.  Really every other step could be done in a couple hours given you have the materials.  This is really the most time consuming part.

Let me know if you have questions or if I skipped something.


Most HVAC's are designed with vents near areas or low insulation or drafts, which are typically windows and doors on exterior walls. I'd suggest the same should be done for any space heater, baseboard, or in your case, a wall heater. The reason is to equalize the temperature in the room and counter-balance any drafts.

That said, a wall heater will have different requirements from an HVAC vent, the main one being that you only have a single heater rather than lots of vents. You have to consider the power/fuel source and how you'll run the line to your selected wall. Be sure place it where combustible materials won't be placed near the heater (the specs on the heater will tell you how much clearance it needs).

One last consideration is to maximize the space that can receive heat, and in particular the spaces that you plan on using the most. So if you place it in a room and close the door, no other rooms will be heated, but that room will be heated really well. If you place it in a hallway, the whole home will get some heat, but each room will only get a little of that heat and only when their doors are left open.


Nope, you can't go in a loop like that...

You have power going in a big circle.  Power flows from "J-box", to the GFCI device, off its load to the outlet, then through both 3-way switches back to "J-box" and on to the light.  Neutral does not flow back the reverse route.  That's a big big problem, because the currents in each cable are not equal, which means you're inducing a lot of EMFs, getting eddy current heating, and other badnesses.  You need to fix that, separately from the GFCI problem.

Generally, non-UK wiring is done in a physical "tree" topology.  Wiring may zig up and back several branches, but if you stuck a clamp ammeter around all the wires in a cable together, it will always say 0 since they cancel each other out with equal flows.  Yours does not do that.

There should be /3 cable between the two 3-way switches.

The GFCI is a separate issue.  You must always power things symmetrically, but with a GFCI it's actually going to cause a trip. In this case the light gets its "hot" off the GFCI LOAD terminals, but gets its neutral direct from source.  That means the hot current leaving the GFCI is not matched by an equal amount of neutral current returning, exactly what they are made to detect.

Smart switch option 1: radio/wireless/powerline coding

This works for smart switches which do not need a communication wire.

You will need a "master" smart switch and matching remote, or at least, units designed to work in the same home-automation system.  The remote must only take always-hot and neutral, and relies on radio or powerline comms to talk to the master.

Fit the "master" in the right 3-way position, connecting its always-hot, neutral and switched-hot to the wireds readily available here.

On the left 3-way, the wire heading north from COM, remove it.  Boom, it's gone.  Loop broken.

The two wires between the 3-ways are redesignated for always-hot and neutral and carry power to the remote switch.   If the remote is battery operated, you don't need this pair at all.

Smart switch option 2: communication wire

Again a master and remote designed to work with each other.  But the search for a suitable unit will be harder.

First, on these, you must consult with the manufacturer and ask them if the switches can be on two different services.   Say it just like that,  not subpanel, different service.   If they want more, tell them they will be on opposite sides of a GFCI.  And get the manufacturer's advice.  To be clear, when I say "manufacturer" I do not mean the former landscaper former meth-head who now works in the paint department at Lowes and you caught coming back from the bathroom.  Best advice: don't buy anything like this at a big box, buy from a local electrical distributor.  Best advice: don't buy anything from a big-box.

In this case, you hook up the master in the right 3-way position as before; grabbing available hot, neutral and switched-hot.

On the left switch, you are already bringing down always-hot from the passthrough... Grab neutral there as well.  Note that this switch will be powered from inside the GFCI protected zone.  That should make your spider-sense tingle, hence, the conversation with the manufacturer.    Then you use one or both of the messengers to satisfy the requirement for the communication wire(s).


How to fix flaking paint on a deck railing and make it last?

Scrape, sand, prime and then paint with exterior grade products. Longevity of the paint will also be based on the moisture content of the wood at the time you painted it. A handy 'mini-Ligno' moisture meter is used to determine if the wood is dry enough to hold primer and paint. Consult with the paint manufacturer for moisture content recommendations.

See... Mini-Ligno    http://www.lignomatusa.com/meters/mini-ligno-md/
Long lasting paint... http://www.paintpro.net/Articles/PP503/PP503_CoatingsFailure.cfm


basement floor crack widening in newly built home - is this a problem?

All NEW buildings move and settle. However, we design them for “uniform” settlement. That is to say, we want the entire building to move together at a specific rate. We don’t want DIFFERENTIAL settlement.

Differential settlement can occur from one portion of a building moving up, down or sideways differently than another portion.

It’s always a result of bad planning. I live where the ground is mush, but we plan for it and provide larger footings, piers or piling and thus have no problems. However, when we build over a “soft spot” that we didn’t account for, one portion of the building will settle more than another and we have problems. When this happens, slabs or footings will always “step” apart.

Your pictures show the slab “level”, so you do not appear to have any of these conditions.

However, EXCESSIVE movement caused by excessive amount of water in the concrete mix is more common and appears to be your problem.

There is an exact amount of water to be used (mixed) with Portland Cement to give it it’s ideal working consistency and strength. We call this it’s water/cement ratio.

However, it’s tempting for workmen to add additional water to the recommended mix design so that it is easier to “work” the concrete before it “sets”.

However, when this is done, then more water causes greater shrinkage when the concrete dries (cures). Your concrete must have been very “wet” because there is an extremely large “shrinkage” crack now. In fact, now the tile has cracked where the slab has shrunk and cracked.

When we get involved in fixing these types of cracks we monitor the crack to make sure it has stopped moving before we fix the problem.

I’d recommend that you tape a plastic ruler to one side of the crack, install a box over the ruler so it can’t be moved, and then create a photo journal taking pictures each month for 1 year and writing down observations: like width of crack, outside temperature, room temperature and humidity. Usually after 1 year you’ll know if it’s stopped moving. (That is to say, you’ll know if the slab has stopped shrinking.)

Then, to repair the problem, I’d add a tile “expansion joint” directly over the crack.

Because the concrete crack is irregular, the two slabs will probably not move up or down causing differential settlement. Just make sure the slab has stopped shrinking. It may take up to a year.


I would make a template out of hard board. Then use the  template and Top Bearing Router bit to do the final piece.

Mark your template by using a tape measure to mark the placement of all your lines and then a long straight edge to pencil in the lines. Use the hole saw to as a marking guide for the inside corners and a can of tomato's or roll of tape to mark the outside rounded corners. Once you have all the lines marked out you can cut your template to shape. You could use a jigsaw to cut it all out or you could use a circular saw and straight edge or table saw (preferred for straight cuts ) to cut the straight cuts on the sides that have outside corners and part of the cuts up to as close as you can get to the inside corners and then finish the corners with the jigsaw. Remember with the jigsaw to cut just slightly OUTSIDE of you line and then fine tune it down to your line by sanding.

If you take the time to make a perfect template then the final pieces will be perfect as well.

Now you have a perfect template for your router to follow, You can then clamp your template on each one the pieces of plywood and at a time a trace it with a pencil or marker. Cut each piece to ROUGH SIZE, meaning cut just OUTSIDE of the lines all the way around by about an 1/8 if an inch. You can then screw your template down to one of the pieces of plywood so that have the 1/8 extra all the way around it. You are now ready to route all the way around, your bearing on the bit rides against the template and presto you have one piece that is perfect.

You can use the perfect piece of plywood as a template to cut the remaining one. Glue and screw the two pieces together and like with the hardboard template leave the 1/8 all the way around. Now when your router bearing will follow the first piece of plywood leaving you with perfect edge.

Sand off the sharp edges sand the top, apply finish and, bob's your uncle.

You need a bit that is long enough for the 3/4 plywood, I.E. a 1" bit.

***Practice your routing on a piece of smaller mock-up  scrape, sometimes plywood is best routed with a spiral flush trim bit to avoid tear-out and ripping.


Is this 110v 1hp motor reversible by swapping leads?

Yes:

tag the red lead on T4 with electrical tape
remove the red leads from T4 and 3, leaving the black lead connected to 3
connect the tagged red lead to 3
connect the untagged red lead to T4

(This is how you implement the "swap the red leads" procedure mentioned briefly on the nameplate.)


3 Cables in Switch Box and Can't Figure it out

I'm going to guess that the upper left wire is the fan/light, and the lower right cable is the outlet. If this is correct, then this is how you need to wire it up:

If the fan and light don't work, try reversing the red and black wires connected to the FAN and LIGHT terminals of the switch.

If that still doesn't work, you'll need to identify the cable bring power to the box. If it's not the cable in the upper right, then you'll need to investigate the wiring in the fan box or the outlet box to make any progress.


Splitting a 240V line into two 120V lines

Yes, you can certainly do this. It is referred to as a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit. The two hot legs share the neutral. It is quite common.

Note: Make sure you pigtail the neutral and ground wires, do NOT daisy chain them through the receptacles.

Here is a pertinent National Electrical Code reference:

  210.4 Multiwire Branch Circuits.

  (A) General.  Branch circuits recognized by this article shall be permitted as multiwire circuits. A multiwire circuit shall be permitted to be considered as multiple circuits. All conductors of a multiwire branch circuit shall originate from the same panelboard or similar distribution equipment.

  Informational Note No. 2: See 300.13(B) for continuity of grounded conductors on multiwire circuits.

  (B) Disconnecting Means.  Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates.

  Informational Note: See 240.15(B) for information on the use of single-pole circuit breakers as the disconnecting means.

  (C) Line-to-Neutral Loads.  Multiwire branch circuits shall supply only line-to-neutral loads.

  Exception No. 1: A multiwire branch circuit that supplies only one utilization equipment.

  Exception No. 2: Where all ungrounded conductors of the multiwire branch circuit are opened simultaneously by the branch-circuit overcurrent device.

Good luck!


How do I plumb this kitchen sink to stop the leak and improve drainage

try setting it up like this.  you will have to trim the dishwasher feed tail pipe a bit (be sure to bring it up high like @DMoores pictures to keep the sink from draining into the dishwasher.


Many dishwashers use a float switch to kill the pump when the water level drops, these can get crusty with mineral/soap deposits and start acting up. Check/clean the float switch.

They also can lose pumping efficiency when the pump, pump volute, or/and discharge passages including hoses and air-gap are affected by sediment/scale/soap deposits. When the float switch tells the controller that the water level has dropped, the pump runs for a few seconds to remove the last of the water. The "few seconds" of run time does not remove as much remaining water with an occluded pump/volute/pump-out passage.

Remove, take apart, and clean the entire pump and macerator (yes, most have a macerator which is like a mini garbage grinder to break up materials that get by the screen) assemblies. And check your discharge hoses, air-gap, and drain for obstructions.


You need to have a submersible pump submersed when testing. Most deep well pumps ALSO need adequate back pressure to limit the current they draw (normally provided by that long pipe up the well to the surface.)

Running dry is bad for all submersible pumps, and "in a bucket" (i.e. with no output restriction when outside of the well, or without adequate head in a well) is bad for most. They expect to be in water (generally near 10C/50F) when operating, and that water serves as lubricant and coolant.

Your on/off cycling is probably caused by the pump's protective circuitry shutting it down due to overheating.


It might help, if that is where most of the sound is coming through. Newer windows have varying sound-transmission ratings (the more you spend, the better they are at blocking noise, generally). If you have old single-pane windows... it might not help much because the sound is coming through the whole thing.
I had a room where I needed to sleep in the day but the windows were old single-pane units. I had to place thick foam panels against them, tightly, when I was sleeping.


Do Wood Stove/Fireplace Inserts come in 'direct vent' configurations?

Depends on how you are defining direct vent. The usual definition is the gas combustion products are vented directly through the wall and no conventional flue or chimney is required. They also draw combustion air from outside, and the combustion chamber can be sealed off from the house entirely.

You will not find a wood burning fireplace that does not require a chimney. Such a contrivance would not draw properly and would be dangerous for burning solid wood fuel. There are a few pellet stoves listed for this configuration however, but not for logs.

If your main concern, as you mention, is only that combustion air be drawn from outside, there are many fireplaces that offer this configuration as an option, including the ability to seal off the combustion chamber. They typically do this by inserting some device that blocks the device's usual combustion air intake from the house and instead provides a 4" dia. duct connection. It's up to the installer to route the duct to the outside. These all still will require a chimney terminating above the roof, typically 6" dia.

I would start searching for such devices by searching wood burning fireplace outside air. You should find many fireplaces have this option, though sometimes you need to dig in the fine print to see that it's available.


Adding led strip in living room. Is 14-2 gauge wire sufficient to draw current?

It depends an awful lot what you are using the 14/2 wire for.

For 120VAC, and you want to feed all 3 power supplies

If you plan to use the power supplies that come with the kit, a 120V/15A circuit will supply those easily.  They are 5 amps at 12 volt output (60 watts).  Allowing for inefficiency, they probably draw 80 watts max on the 120VAC side.  Three of them would be 240W, easily within the 1800W (120Vx15A) hard max on a 15A circuit.  Like this.

All the DC wiring here can be 18 AWG except for the 120VAC wiring on the left, which must be 14AWG. You see why I don't like those power supplies?

However having worked with LED strips a lot, you are not going to be happy with the final result.  You will have 3 separate installations of LED strip that will operate totally independently from each other and respond separately to commands from the remote.  Not every controller will see every signal from the remote, so you'll never get the colors or brightness to match each other, assuming all 3 remotes are even compatible with each other (and not serialized).  If you are rolling/cycling colors, the three strips will be out of sync.  Try it for yourself, but I think it will find it frustrating, amateurish and dreadful, and you'll either rip it out in frustration, or look for a better way to do it.

For 12VDC  to the strip lights

There are several ways to make an installation of this size work well.  One is to power them all from a single larger DC supply, and have all that go through dimmers/amplifiers.  Here on out I assume you have a larger 12VDC supply of your own.

The "standard" in LED strips is generally:

12 volts DC
300 emitters per 5 meters
2 amps per channel per 300 emitters -- in a 3528 single-color strip, that's straight up 2 amps.  5050s have 3 emitters - commonly RGB but sometimes WWW (all three white).  They have 3 channels, 2 amps per channel or 6A total.

Of course there are modifications on that.  Double density or half density; 24V; coolwhite-warmwhite-yellow, just to name a few.

Your example seems to be a peculiar one. It's 5050, but they seem to be alternating RGB with WWW.   They claim that the WWW can be controlled separately from the RGB (you would hope!) but that means they are doing something weird in terms of how the strip is wired.   It is not 3 channels, it looks like 4.

But since half the total lights are on the "white" chanel, half the 6A power is on that channel, or 3A per strip.  The three RGB channels split what remains, 1A each.

Power all three strips from one supply

Three strips together would be 9A on the white, 3A on each R/G/B color, or 18A for any feeder wire that is handling all the power for all of them.  Also, 18A on the return ('neutral') wire.

The 120VAC wire must be 14AWG.  The feed between power supply and controller must be 12AWG (14AWG would not suffice - I believe that was your original question.)  If any distance is involved, go10 AWG and you'll want stranded wire so it's more flexible.  The return back from the strip must also be 12AWG and the "white" wire must be 16 AWG or larger.  Color wires can be 18AWG or larger.

Since you're working in DC power, there is no requirement to have the "return" wire run in the same cable as the "supply" wires.  So you could use 14/4 for the supply to all 4 colors, then run a single-strand 12AWG wire for the return.  Or 12/2 for the white and return, and 18AWG thermostat wire for the rest.  Since it's low voltage DC you are not obliged to use white/blue for neutral and green for ground.

Another option is do a separate "homerun" for each 5-metre strip, so the return would be only 6 amps, which would permit you to use 18AWG intercom wire of however many strands you need.

One controller, three power supplies

You could power each strip separately, and control them centrally using amplifiers.  To do this, assemble each LED strip in the normal way, but use an amplifier where the controller would go. Then use one controller, and split its R G B W and common wires to each of the amplifiers.  This means all three strings will be the same color, do the same patterns, etc.  You will end up with 2 spare controllers, but you will have to buy 3 amplifiers.

All the wire can be 18 AWG here except for the 120VAC wiring which must be 14AWG. The wires to the controller draw very low current, but wire thinner than 18AWG isn't any cheaper.

(it's possible to hook up one string normally and use amplifiers only with the other two.  I don't recommend that, it'll be hard to troubleshoot, and the strings will not be equal.)


URD cable is a hot mess
URD cable is made with the bad AA-1350 alloy wire, infamous for the aluminum-wiring scandal of the 80s and 90s. (this alloy is banned anywhere else, see NEC 310.106(B)).
That's because URD cable is made to be on the power company's side of the electric meter - and power companies play by different rules (because their wires are all outdoors and not buried in walls of buildings). Note that you're not running a service (pole to meter) ... you're running a branch circuit (panel to socket).
That dangerous AA-1350 metal will be a nightmare to get the terminations correct so you don't get a repeat of the 80s house fires.
Cheap doesn't mean stupid (much the opposite)
Cheapness is a grand thing.  But it does not mean we are morons.  We still think ahead and are smart about being cheap now to save money later.
I'm thinking hard on two scenarios: #1 wanting to run other loads besides the camper, out there today. Using power tools to work on stuff. Having a picnic area with power for grill etc.  #2 a future RV that will take a 50A/240V receptacle.  #3 fitting a subpanel out here if needs increase.
So I recommend you throw one more #6 Al wire into the trench.
For now, you share the neutral with the other circuit, and bring it out to a common 120V GFCI outlet right next to the TT30 trailer circuit.  Now you can just plug in anything you want and you don't need the trailer there as a 3000 pound "adapter".  Back at the panel you use a 20A breaker for that circuit and a 30A breaker for the TT30 trailer, and handle-tie the two breakers.
In the happy future you get a big RV, you just change the recep to a NEMA 14-50.  Just like that and you're done.  Well change the breaker also, but that's $10.  Or you could install a trailer power stand which provides all of them: 14-50, TT30 and 120V GFCI at the same time.
All you need to do to enable that is carry a 4th wire... so 6-6-6-6 for instance.   33% more for the wire but that's a small part of total project cost.
Conductor size is just fine though
Generally I don't even bother checking the voltage drop calculators unless a run is over 160' (or 80' if it's 120V).
Normally you use #10 copper (or #8 aluminum) for a 30A circuit.  Given the distances we need 1 wire size bump, and that puts us at #6 aluminum, so that's just right.
Thinking about that larger future RV at 50 amps... #8 copper or #6 aluminum is the minimum size allowed for 50A if the wire is allowed to run a 75C (so not UF-B or NM-B).  Since it's 240V we're not far enough to need a wire size bump, so we're all set there too.  See how easy that was?
Cable/Wire Type
I see where people might recommend 2-2-4-6 since URD is such a hot mess. That's because when you get away from URD cable, #6 cables get hard to find in an all-in-one cable -- for instance, in MH feeder, the smallest made is 2-2-4-6 which is overkill and won't be fun to attach to a 30A breaker.  You'd need some fairly hefty Polaris connectors on both ends to adapt it down to some #10 copper for that final connection.
As it happens, USE-2/RHH/RHW-2 is available in individual #6 wires, quite cheaply. (it's more or less MH feeder, but separated). These individual wires can be directly buried. But they can't be directly run inside the house on rafters and in walls - inside the house they need to be in conduit. Or you could stop at a junction box and transition to a different cable type for inside the house.
The only snag I see with USE-2 individual wires is officially, the neutral is supposed to be white and the ground is supposed to be green since these are #6 or below. However if that size of wire simply isn't sold in colors, the inspector is sure to let you off the hook.
Buy your wires locally at an electrical supply house.  Big-box stores overcharge you, and Internet sales companies build a lot of shipping/handling cost into their prices. Electrical gear is too low-value and heavy for mail-order to work all that well.


What's the difference between "Wood Filler" and "Floor patch & Smoothing Compound"?

The leveling compound pictured is used underneath a finish floor. The minwax/ bondo solution would provide a durable fix that you could walk on. So I guess it depends on whether you'll throw something over the top of the fix...


I have done that, hole in the floor back near the wall,

MC Modular Whip  to a junction box in the crawlspace and then romex from the junction box to the panel.

I did not hard wire the whip into the dishwasher, i installed a  surface mounted metal outlet box and connected the whip to that and then a regular appliance cord from the dishwasher to the outlet.

The appliance cord will make the installation and removal of the dishwasher easier as the MC is stiff and will cause problems.


How long should a blower and dehumidifier run in order to dry out ceiling boards and drywall?

The only real answer can be "as long as it takes". There are so many variables that affect how easily the water will evaporate that you can't predict. Could be hours in some situations, could be months in others.

You need to figure out how to measure how much water is left. You might consider buying a moisture content meter; there are ones with pins that you push into the surface (meant for wood, but may work with plaster), and inductive ones that measure through the surface (but may be less accurate). Or, you could figure out how to get to the wet area and check it out first-hand.

If the wet area is confined (e.g. between ceiling and floor) you should do whatever you can to get air flow through the confined area. For example, some Googling turned up this equipment which professionals use to inject air into a wall cavity to dry out the cavity. You probably don't want to buy one of those, but whatever you can do that has the same end-result will help.


Strange wires behind a plate in living room (red plastic sensor looking)

Those are telephone wires. Looks like the cabling is CAT3, but I can't quite tell from the picture. The "red sensor" things aren't sensors, they are just splicers that are connecting two runs together. Google for "red telephone splicer" and you'll get tons of pictures of similar ones, as well as instructions on how to use them.


Code for elevating water heater in garages?

As I suspected, the code you're referencing is from the National Fuel Gas Code. I was not able to find anything in National Electrical Code, or International Residential Code that mentions this in the context of electric appliances.
So this code only applies to gas water heaters, and only those that are not listed as flammable vapor ignition resistant (FVIR).

NFPA 54: National Fuel Gas Code 2015
Chapter 9 Appliance, Equipment, and Accessory Installation
9.1 General.
9.1.10 Installation in Residential Garages.
9.1.10.1 Appliances in residential garages and in adjacent spaces that open to the garage and are not part of the living space of a dwelling unit shall be installed so that all burners and burner ignition devices are located not less than 18 in. (460 mm) above the floor unless listed as flammable vapor ignition resistant.


DA01 is correct about direct contact with concrete to a point. If the steel and concrete are above ground grade and the concrete is beveled enough for any water to run off or not collect around the pipe, then serious rusting will take a very long time. As far as rust proofing the steel pipe, clean the metal very well. Sand off any paint or other materials. Prime the steel with a zinc chromate primer. This is available in spray cans from Krylon.  After 24 hours, coat the surfaces with truck bed liner.  You can buy truck bed liner in either brush on or spray on cans. Use a couple of thin coats and overlap the bed liner down and over the concrete. This will give you a great water/moisture proof covering.  Good luck


How do i unscrew this screw to take apart the bed frame

This looks like a cam lock which holds onto the head of a bolt in the plane of the wooden piece. Ikea furniture is fastened this way. Turn it counter clockwise to a stop and it will release the bolt.


Just recently started getting shocked in the shower

Did you read about the military personnel that were electrocuted in the shower in Afghanistan or Iraq about 15 to 20 years ago? It is caused by the piping not being properly bonded to the grounding system.

So take the advice of jwh20 and get a professional over there and find whats wrong and repair it.

This is not a DIY project.


can I share the same neutral on two separate 20 amp circuits

If your heaters are 120V then it's possible to use a shared neutral for the heater circuit and the receptacle circuit, as long as you follow the code rules that apply for this type of circuit.  (If the heaters are 240V, there is no neutral on that circuit, and they'd have to be wired separately.)

If you haven't already done so you might want to consider whether you're better off with 240V heaters and separate wiring.  Even if I didn't want 240V now, I'd wire these separately so that I had the option of converting to 204V in the future, rather than save a little wire now with the shared neutral.


OK to use plywood instead of hardieplank between two close windows?

Yes, but I’d use an exterior plywood product made for that type of application, like Medium Density Overlay (MDO) plywood and I’d be sure to pre-prime the edges. That is to say, I’d paint primer on the edges before installation.

In order to seal the window edges and building paper, I’d use a peel and stick seal tape.

Jack is correct that trim is customary for spaces up to about 11”.


Do I need to do anything after a bathroom flooding? How can I prevent it in future?

A one-time hit of water won't do anything to structure, it'll dry out in a couple days and be fine. It's only when it gets a little bit wet every day, and never has a chance to dry that you'll get rot.

Expect the staining in drywall to spread a little bit, and make sure it's completely dry before any repainting.

You can get water detection devices that sound an alarm when water is present, but they're more for basement flooding, they're certainly not attractive and not practical to leave in a common area like a bathroom, though they could be placed in the ceiling below.

I would, after disconnecting power, look inside light fixture, and electrical boxes in the path, to check for any signs of remaining water.

Education to the unnamed individual is the best defense, for a one time occurrence it's nothing to worry about.


The loose base is causing catching at the opposite corner because the entire door and frame is pivoting around the upper hinge and nearby framing that is presumably still attached firmly to the jack stud behind the frame.  As the bottom left part of the frame swings out, the upper right of the door is moving up to where it hits against the frame there.
Take a look at the loose part of the frame and see if the nails attaching it to the jack stud have pulled loose.  The hinge side of the door frame is often attached directly to the jack studs (no shims) so securing it may simply be a matter of driving in some brads or finish nails nearby.

If there were shims behind the frame, they may not be where they were originally; then you'd probably have to remove the door trim to get some more installed in the gap, then drive nails through the door frame, shims and studs.


Buried conduit is considered wet location. Romex typically refers to NM cable, which isn't approved for wet location.  Depending on conduit size you might be able to run 6/3 UF if you can find in quad (not flat) form, but it could be very hard to pull.
Also 6/3 costs about $2.50/ft, you would be better running 3@ #6 THWN at 0.54/ft and #10 ground @ 0.40/ft. (Actual price at my local Lowes). It would be cheaper and much easier to pull. You would need at least 3/4" conduit.
Protect the feeder with a 60A breaker in your main panel, and use a panel in the garage with a 60A or greater main disconnect, and ground rods. Buy a panel with many more spaces than you think you will ever need.
250 feet does have some voltage drop considerations, but the 40A load you describe will not create a problem even if full load at once.
Edit: I see you added it is 1/2" pvc, you'll never get #6 to fit, the largest wire you could legally fit is #10 THWN protected at 30A. I also see you added it's only 60 feet, voltage drop should not be a problem.


I think the usual idea is you cut out the size hole you require. There are multiple circular features you can follow when cutting at various sizes.


How should I install a new water heater?

Since you talk about venting, I'm going to assume you're talking about a gas-fired water heater. First thing you should know is that in many jurisdictions, gas pipe fitting may only be performed by licensed gas fitters. Based on that and the fact that you are asking these types of questions leads me to believe you are probably out of your depth on installing a gas-fired water heater.

Instead, I would strongly consider an electric water heater. Installation considerations are much simpler.

And don't forget that you have to follow earthquake code, in additional to all of the other usual codes (electrical, plumbing, etc.)!


Interchangable compatablity of circuit breaker brands

Short version: you can't cross breaker brands.   You cannot put a competitor breaker type in this panel.
A "tandem" breaker is not what you want.  Here is an article about those.
What you're hoping to use is a THQP breaker, which appears very similar to a tandem breaker, however, is actually a 2-pole breaker that is half-height.  On certain GE panels, GE has a system that uses 1/2" tall (half-height) breakers, 2 per breaker space.  Their 2-pole breakers in that system are 1" tall and straddle 2 breaker spaces, with a 1/2" breaker above and below them.
You can't use them.  Those half-width breakers clip onto a special cross-bars added to the bus stabs, and your bus stabs don't have them.    You can see the cross-bars in the lower 5 rows of this panel here:


Can you cut open a plastic junction box and just lay splices inside?

Red tag party, anyone?

Hoo boy, that installer needs to get knocked back to school with a Codebook!  What's in the photos alone violates several sections of the NEC, starting with 314.17(A) on the excessive openings for conductors:

  (A) Openings to Be Closed. Openings through which conductors enter shall be closed in an approved manner.

We then move on to 314.23, where the utter lack of box support strikes:

  314.23 Supports. Enclosures within the scope of this article shall be supported in accordance with one or more of
  the provisions in 314.23(A) through (H).

Note that nowhere in the subsections does it allow for a box to flop loose on some insulation, supported only by cabling that is not strain-relieved to the box by an approved means (such as a cord grip).

Also note the bulging box lids, which are indicative of a violation of the general provisions of 314.16:

  314.16 Number of Conductors in Outlet, Device, and
  Junction Boxes, and Conduit Bodies. Boxes and conduit
  bodies shall be of an approved size to provide free space
  for all enclosed conductors. In no case shall the volume of
  the box, as calculated in 314.16(A), be less than the fill
  calculation as calculated in 314.16(B). The minimum volume for conduit bodies shall be as calculated in 314.16(C).

  The provisions of this section shall not apply to terminal housings supplied with motors or generators.

  Informational Note: For volume requirements of motor or
  generator terminal housings, see 430.12.

  Boxes and conduit bodies enclosing conductors 4 AWG
  or larger shall also comply with the provisions of 314.28.

From there, we continue the party at 300.11(A) on support:

  300.11 Securing and Supporting.

  (A) Secured in Place. Raceways, cable assemblies, boxes,
  cabinets, and fittings shall be securely fastened in place.
  Support wires that do not provide secure support shall not
  be permitted as the sole support. Support wires and associated fittings that provide secure support and that are installed in addition to the ceiling grid support wires shall be
  permitted as the sole support. Where independent support
  wires are used, they shall be secured at both ends. Cables
  and raceways shall not be supported by ceiling grids.

and move on to 300.3(A) and (B) for the single wires run loose in the attic:

  300.3 Conductors.

  (A) Single Conductors. Single conductors specified in
  Table 310.104(A) shall only be installed where part of a
  recognized wiring method of Chapter 3.

  Exception: Individual conductors shall be permitted
  where installed as separate overhead conductors in accordance with 225.6.

  (B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of
  the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor
  and all equipment grounding conductors and bonding conductors shall be contained within the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or
  cord, unless otherwise permitted in accordance with
  300.3(B)(1) through (B)(4).

Finishing things off, we can write the installer up for violating 110.12, including 110.12(A) specifically:

  110.12 Mechanical Execution of Work. Electrical equipment shall be installed in a neat and workmanlike manner.

  Informational Note: Accepted industry practices are described in ANSI/NECA 1-2010, Standard Practice of Good
  Workmanship in Electrical Construction. and other ANSI-
  approved installation standards.

  (A) Unused Openings. Unused openings, other than those
  intended for the operation of equipment, those intended for
  mounting purposes, or those permitted as part of the design
  for listed equipment, shall be closed to afford protection
  substantially equivalent to the wall of the equipment.
  Where metallic plugs or plates are used with nonmetallic
  enclosures, they shall be recessed at least 6 mm (1/4 in.)
  from the outer surface of the enclosure.


How Can I Install A "Main" in my Distribution Box, such that I could turn the main switch to allow all power to be off while I'm away?

You almost certainly already have a main disconnect. Code requires it be very close to where the wires come to your house. Look by the meter. If you don't have one, adding one is a job for an expert -- stop reading now. :-)

That said, you can add an additional main disconnect to the main panel, if you think that will be more convenient.

Know your limits. Getting electrical work wrong can lead to electric shocks or structure fires.

When you find your existing disconnect, turn it off, ensure that no one will flip it back on, open the panel, and have a look around. (Don't touch anything without verifying that the wires are not energized.)

Each panel is a little different, so until we know what yours is, we can't give you exact instructions.


How do I handle an extra black wire when replacing dimmer switches?

The wire that connected to both switches is likely the line (power source). One circuit and cable comes into the electrical box with a hot and neutral. The hot is connected to both switches, and then each switch has its own cable to the circuits they control.  If you remove it, you likely won't have any power to your fixtures.  The configuration will be the same regardless of if its a switch or dimmer.


Reclaimed floor boards vs roof boards: what's the difference?

Get the dimensions you need first, then judge by looks. My guess is that the roofing boards would be lower grade (ie, more knotty) than floor boards.


How to distribute power better across two breaker panels

You did the right thing first tightening the connections, next would be to use an AMP clamp meter to verify the loads connected to L1, L2 and make sure they are ballanced, if unballanced as stated above some breakers need to be moved untill they are ballanced. if they are ballanced it may be your main breaker has a weak hammer on 1 leg causing some internal arcing and the voltage drop. I had to replace a square D panel several years ago as I could not get a new main breaker from square D


I'm replacing an old 3-wire motion sensor with a new sensor that has 4 wires. How do I install this?

From the document you linked one blue wire connects to live and the other to the live terminal of he lamps.


How should a painted wall be prepared before being tiled?

Obviously the tiles can adhere no better than the paint is adhering to the wall.  So if there is any peeling you should remove the paint first.
In kitchens and bathrooms semi-gloss or gloss paint is often used.  The tile may not adhere to these as well as to other paints.  Usually washing with a product like TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) which is a super strong soap will rough the surface up pretty well.
In all cases, however, you should read and follow the tile adhesive manufacturer's recommendations regarding wall preparation.  The specific brand you are using may have different requirements.


In Canada (Ontario, specifically), is 'CL2' rated cable acceptable for in-wall installation?

Anyone reading this will need to check out their local code requirements, but...

I phoned the city and the electrical safety authority and it turned out for my case that single family dwellings are exempt from requiring fire ratings on in-wall cable, at least for low voltage wiring which I was inquiring about.

This means that, although having fire rated cable (like FT-4 or CL2) in your walls is still obviously a good idea, it was not a code requirement and therefore will pass inspection.

To answer the questions specifically: CL2 is totally fine for my single family dwelling and will pass inspection with no problems at all.

Again... Building code in your area may vary!!

Also worth noting is that I was looking for non-metallic flex conduit to install in the walls to aid future low voltage wire pulls, and the single-family-dwelling exemptions means that if I wanted I could use simple sump pump hose as conduit and it would pass inspection.  Sump pump hose is a very cheap flex conduit (roughly $12 for 25' of 1.25" or 1.5" diameter hose).  I went with a longer coil of "actual" conduit/innerduct with my installation (longer lengths + better bend radius + integrated pull tape + peace of mind), but will be keeping the sump hose in mind for the future.


Fire escape ladder cannot be used if the floor (room) below is on fire?

This is why every livable room is required to have at least two ways to exit room.  If all paths are blocked, you then have to wait for the fire department to come with the ladder truck.  Any other means will put you in greater dander.

Also it is not the ladder catching on fire that is the concern, but climbing through heat/fire/smoke that will make it impossible.


How can i repair a nail head size leak on a vertical cast iron sewer pipe in my basement

Epoxy is unlikely to make a lasting repair. What you need is a pipe repair clamp, which is a stainless steel band with a rubber gasket inside it - the "in place repair" type have a beveled overlapping edge so the clamp can be opened up and slipped onto the pipe, then clamped in place to seal the leak. They look similar to the "hubless coupling" clamps but those typically use a gasket that needs to have the pipe cut to slip onto it.


Easy way of generating a 50-150W load @12V

Automotive headlamps are the obvious, easy 12V choice, being typically in the 45-55W range (don't get LED headlamps.)

If you ask the right folks you can often get dual-filament bulbs (high/low beam) with one filament broken for free.


How do I get rid of birds living in an air vent?

Go rent a shopvac, and gently suck them up.  Then when you return the shopvac, they will safely place the birds outside of the business for no additional charge (as long as you don't tell them about it.)

Just kidding, if they have eggs right now then you will just have to wait.  If they don't then there is a plethora of things you can do.  The netting is fine, or remove the nest while it is away.


Fast hot water - tankless heater as backup or recirculator

We have a circulation pump that was in the house when we bought it.  The instant hot water is nice, but it is a huge energy waster, as you suggested.  Our solution was to put switches on the circulation pump.  It's plugged into a receptacle near the water heater, so it was as easy as making that a switched receptacle.  We have switches (timer type that turn themselves off soon after you turn them on) next to the shower and by the kitchen sink.  It only takes about 30 seconds for the circulation pump to get the hot water to you, so we just turn it on while getting ready for the shower (or while stacking the dishes).  So convenient, but without the wasted energy or water.


Yes, your plan is a good one. As suggested by Damon using a brush to apply primer will best insure a bond to the wall. A roller may do well to in the larger areas. I would not concern yourself too much with a high build primer though since the paint is intact. If there were bare spots, that would be a different story. Primer has to just get on the surface, not fully color the wall the primer color. Although if the wall will take a drastic color change, the primer can be tinted to help change it. The main thing is getting the primer on a clean sound wall, grips onto the existing surface and allows the finish to grip onto it, no matter how thick the primer goes on. Once primer "wets" the surface and dries, its job is done.

Since this is the time for a good visual inspection on the outside of the house, now is the time to really scrutinize the wood trim that is typically around doors, windows and roof overhangs. When the paint finish begins to fail in these areas, there are small cracks in the paint at the joints in the wood or at the ends. The ends of the wood are highly susceptible to taking on moisture. since the nature of the tree is to draw in water when it is growing. Seriously, it does not change after it is cut. Capillary action is what at work here. Spot check to make sure these areas are detailed with cleaning and scraping if needed and recaulk to seal the joints to seal water out.


Removing a stuck/frozen compression fitting

I have found WD-40 to be a lousy penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench, Sea Foam or PB Blaster are much better. Experience has shown me that none of these are particularly effective on aluminum, I am not sure of their effectiveness on brass to brass. But it is worth a try. My usual method with ferrous fittings is to wrap a small strip of rag around the fitting and soak it for several days. Not sure if it works for brass but I've had good luck with  household strength ammonia on aluminum parts. It might be worth a try.


Ota antenna on cable coax with internet on line

No, you will need to isolate the two systems from each other.  They cannot exist on the same coax.

Unplug lines one by one from the splitter until you locate the modem.  That line must be connected to the incoming cable from the cable company.  You may need an inexpensive F-Type Coaxial Cable Connector from the big box store to join the two cables.

Important note: both systems do need to be grounded.  Without more information on your current system it's hard to advise.  The ground in this case has multiple functions, but is primarily grounding static charge, providing ground reference, and possibly preventing a surge from damaging equipment.

Once the modem is isolated and connected directly to the incoming cable, then you can use the rest of the existing distribution system to distribute your OTA TV to the TV's.


If the black wire with the label is connected to that black wire with the orange wire nut, remove that wire with the label. Then you'll need to install a ceiling plate similar to the one below and route the wires through it before installing the fixture. Connect the two fixture wires to the two black wires from the ceiling. You will want to turn off the power before doing any work.


Using a boulder wall as an 8' retaining wall (Dallas area)

The engineering on such a wall may prove difficult. We recently built a 6' retaining wall and a couple of 5' retaining walls. The 6' wall was 32 MPA concrete spray using our pool as the footing, the 5' walls are steel reinforced, core-filled besser blocks with footings 600mm deep and 1000m wide. In both cases, using steel and concrete, the engineering was complex. We rendered both walls. We constructed our walls this way to minimise the foot print (the walls are 200mm thick).

Using something like boulders could prove tricky unless you have a 45 degree angle of repose - this would simplify things but also eat up a lot of your back yard.

My neighbour has just build a shorter retaining wall with besser blocks then added a rock finish afterwards - looks rather nice.


Can I run electric to a shed through my garage?

There is no problem with running the feeder from the garage's subpanel to the shed.

The only thing you have to watch out for is the remaining capacity of the garage's panel.

The heaviest load in the shed is going to be climate control if you choose to install one. All the rest you'd need for remote work can be powered of a single 15A circuit.


To use as “real” doors, I’d use a pivot hinge. Pivot hinges are set in the top and bottom of doors, so they would not mare the face of the doors.
I’d use the hinge rated for the heaviest doors. Something similar to this:
https://www.betterbuildinghardware.com/products/pivot-hinge-fritsjurgens-systemone?gclid=CjwKCAiAqJn9BRB0EiwAJ1SztV-DFU2tcIrLUFOshOxARq3x3Cfwoy6-ChMV48ALM-9EQAwDa4XZtxoC0IoQAvD_BwE
Three doors seem like an odd combination for doors, especially as narrow as they seem to be.
Edit:
If the doors are going to be decorative, then perhaps they should be installed (mounted) “on” the wall instead of “in” the wall. That includes mounting a simulated door frame around the doors.
I’d use wood trim, stained to match the doors and framed out all the way around the 3 doors. The trim could mount flush “on” the wall so it appears like a door casing.


New exterior line when fixing existing 20 amp

That's kind of a Code mess.  The biggest problem is that your receptacle size must match your breaker size, with an exception that allows 15A or 20A receptacles on 20A circuits (due to a design exception in UL standards which require 15A receptacles to be rated internally for 20A).

So you have a 30A TT30(?) RV socket on a 20A breaker. Can't do that.

What you can do is whistles dixie get an adapter cable from TT30 receptacle to NEMA 5-20 plug, and fit a 5-20 receptacle (5-20 is the usual receptacle, with an extra little sideslot on the neutral.)

Now it's possible your electrician ran two separate cables, a #10 for the TT30 and a #12 or 14 for the GFCI.  In that case nevermind.

Also if you have a NEMA L14-30 connector (twist lock) instead of a TT30, everything in this answer is out the window.

Feeding GFCI protection downline

Every GFCI+receptacle combo device has a pair of terminals called LOAD, that you normally do not use (or rather, should not use unless you intend to do the following).  If you connect hot+neutral to that LOAD pair, and continue it to another outlet point, that outlet is also protected by the GFCI.  (grounds you just continue through, GFCIs don't use ground for anything.)

So you can continue off the LOAD terminals of that GFCI+receptacle device, on to the shed.  That meets the GFCI requirement.

If you place the NEMA 5-20 outdoor receptacle downline of the GFCI, that will also inherit GFCI protection to the RV.  They also make 5-20 GFCIs so you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

I'm a big, big fan of putting GFCI devices not outdoors. I would site the GFCI+receptacle combo somewhere in the dry, then feed the outdoor receptacles, RV, shed, etc. off its LOAD terminals.

You cannot feed a 30A receptacle from a 15/20A GFCI.  Adapter cables are not part of the house or RV, so are not subject to NEC rules.

Rigid only goes 6" deep but is expensive

"Rigid steel conduit" is magic conduit that only needs 6" of cover, whether it's GFCI or not. It involves a little bit of threaded pipe fitting, so you may need a trip or two to the building supply to have threads cut unless you have a friend with a Ridgid (no relation).  Rigid is pretty expensive so it's best if it's not far.  Cable in conduit isn't illegal, just really hard to pull. Better to use THWN-2 wires in conduit. Menards won't sell you by the foot, some others will and your friendly neighborhood electrical supply will certainly be happy to, and if you diagram out what you're doing, they'll give you correct advice.


Yes you could add a smart CT and adjust it to turn the pilot light on when current is being used, I use these to monitor equipment , if a belt or chain breaks the motor is not drawing enough so it turns on an alarm. The same process could be used with a pilot lamp type switch if it has separate contacts (not integrated) for the lamp.


After power outages the same type of light bulbs don't work anymore

This is NOT normal. There are two likely possibilities that I can think of:

Surges and other transient problems
A series of surges and other transient problems related to the power going off/on quickly could "zap" many devices and possibly leave some fixtures. However, light bulbs are a very good indicator because most consumer light bulbs, whether incandescent, compact fluorescent or LED, are self-contained so that switches wiring & fixtures are passive elements. In other words, if you replace a bulb and it still has problems then a surge that zapped the original bulb is not the problem because a new bulb would not be affected.

Lost pole or neutral
In the US, power comes in to most houses with 2 hot wires (called phases or more properly poles) and 1 neutral wire. If all of those wires are disconnected, you have no power. If just one of those wires is disconnected you can end up with all kinds of strange and dangerous problems. A simple test is to use a multimeter to check the voltage between the hot wire in a receptacle and the neutral wire. All receptacles should show the same voltage - nominally 120V, though anywhere from 110 V to 125 V is OK. But if some receptacles show significantly lower (== dim bulbs) and some show significantly higher (== things get "zapped") then you have a big problem. THIS IS A PROBLEM FOR THE UTILITY COMPANY TO FIX.

Recommendation: Call your local electric utility and tell them that following the high winds and intermittent outages, you now appear to have a partial power outage, specifically that you may have LOST NEUTRAL.
The electric utility should treat this as a serious problem and send someone out to check & fix it. Since the problem followed strong winds, that is another indication that it is a utility problem rather than a problem with the wiring inside your house.
If my hunch is correct, using any electric devices is potentially risky until this is resolved. If you are using your computer and it seems to work OK, that is because many computers are now designed for international operation on anywhere from 90 V to 240 V, so they are able to handle the differences. But that doesn't mean you don't have a serious problem affecting all electric devices in your house.


In the UK Fused connection units (FCU for short) are used for a number of applications including but not limited to.

Providing over-current protection for a spur that serves multiple sockets or is wired in smaller cable than is allowed for non-fused spurs.
Allowing a spur to be switched on and off.
Providing over-current protection and/or switching for fixed appliances.
Providing over-current protection for lighting that is fed from a socket circuit.

The first thing I would do is look to see if the FCU has an open flex outlet hole (either on the front or on one of the edges). If so then it probably means that the FCU used to feed a fixed appliance that is no longer present.

If not then I would look for any equipment, sockets or flex outlets in the vicinity. Especially sockets that are in unusual locations (high up, under a counter etc) and test if those sockets are controlled by the FCU.

If you feel confident in doing so then removing the FCU from the wall (with the power off of course) and looking at what type and size of cable (if any) is connected to the load terminals may give more clues. Looking at the fuse may also give a clue, a 13A fuse likely means sockets or a high power appliance, a 3A or 5A fuse likely means lighting or a low (electrical) power appliance.


How do I install a new, non load bearing wall in my basement?

You shouldn't have to do anything too special, but here are a few tips from my experience:

Use a treated board for the bottom of the wall where it touches the concrete.  This will help to prevent rotting from any moisture that may seep up from the concreate.
Build the whole wall on the ground just a bit shorter than the lowest joist/beam so you can easily raise it into place without it getting stuck.
At the bottom secure it with cement nails/ramset/tapcon screws to the cement floor.
At the top, if the wall is perpendicular to the joists, you can shim between the bottom of the beams and the top of the wall and nail through those to attach it to the joists/beams.
If the wall runs parallel to the beams/joists you can either put scraps between the beams and nail to those or you can attach a scrap of 2x4 flatwise to the wall and up against a stud, attach it to the cement wall, then nail through the stud and into the side of the scrap.  Do that for every other stud or so.


How to repair a closed-stringer staircase?

The easiest way IMO, would be to cut the nosing off the treads flush with the risers then just install new risers in front of the old, flush with the top of the old tread and install new thread on top of the old.

Removing the old treads and replacing them is not a simple/easy task, it can be done though.


I agree that replacing with tempered glass is your best option. But if you want cheap, there are other options.

I don't know about regular super glue or Krazy glue. It would probably work fine. Loctite makes a super glue specifically for glass.

I used to work for an art glass/leaded glass company 20 years ago and we used a glue that was cured by UV light. It was nice because you could easily wipe up any excess before you set the glue. You can use a cheap UV light ($15 or less) to cure the glue. It is slower, but you can also use sunlight. It cures absolutely clear and is permanent. The bond is super strong. We used this glue to attach glass "jewels" and flat beveled glass to glass windows that we made.  Once it was cured, there was no removing it. You couldn't break the bevel off with a hammer.  I don't remember the name of it, but there are cheap UV cured glues available online and probably Lowe's/Home Depot.


Ideas for how to hide an 8ft sewer vent pole in backyard

There a few ideas out there. Not sure what your exactly looking for.

Best I could come up with is...

Hide the sewer vent post with a custom built wooden or metal slip-over post with a solar light. (Light post) Although you would probably have to add a vent.

Finish it off with a wooden planter box over the man-hole.


Can I wire up a 353W projector with a 25W track light?

Ok, with the updated question... no, you really shouldn't ever power a permanently mounted light fixture from an extension cord inside a dwelling. It's acceptable in a utility outbuilding or agricultural building, but not inside a dwelling - there's too much inherent risk of an occupant (might not be you) damaging the extension cord and starting a house fire, resulting in the loss of many lives.

Your best bet would be to run a short section of WireMold (or similar brand) surface-mount conduit from an outlet box to a box on the ceiling, and hardwire the tracklights from that ceiling box.


rotten egg smell in cold water only bathroom sink of new home

We had this same problem. The smell was only coming from our kitchen sink, and only for a few seconds after the water was turned on.  No other faucet in the house had smelly water, so I was quite certain it wasn’t from water heater issues. We tried draining some water from the water heater just in case, but no sediment came out and no smell. Since the smell only lasted a few seconds at the faucet, I figured the smell had to be building up somewhere between the water heater and the offending sink.

What I eventually noticed was that the braided pipes leading to the hot and cold had subtle horizontal “S” curves in them where smelly gas could get trapped, like how a toilet is shaped so sewer gas doesn’t come back up. I figured that when the water hadn’t been run in awhile, the gas would build up in the upper curve. Then the water would push the gas out when it was turned on. So I replaced the braided pipes with shorter ones that didn’t crate that “S” curve. We have been smell free ever since.


Steam technology:

You'll need to pull a bunch of cables through walls. Some of these will be 4-core.  I can say with great confidence it's illegal to do this without landlord permission.

Smart-switch technology:

This is simplicity itself.  They make smart switches which work with wireless remote switches that run on batteries, have no wires, and simply stick to the wall.  You need to reconnoiter which wires are present in the old switch box to aid in product selection.

Get facilities/landlord permission to replace a switch.  It's unlikely they'd object.
Install such a brand of smart switch in the old/former switch location.
Install 2 remotes and pair them to the smart switch.

The key to finding masters and remotes that work with each other is they will almost certainly be the same brand.

Further, you should be aware that anything from the following channels is all but guaranteed to be the unsafe, illegal junkstream of poorly made goods from Alibaba:  a) AliExpress, b) eBay, c) DealExpress, d) Banggood, and e) Amazon Marketplace (pretty much anything on Amazon, sadly).  So you can save a lot of time/confusion by avoiding these channels altogether.

Honestly your best bet is your local home improvement retailer's web site (e.g. Wickes or Menards), or actually walk in to your local lighting supply house or electrical supply.  They will seem very expensive because they sell a higher quality product that is properly safety certified, and they charge a higher markup than mail order, but they don't charge shipping.  It is worth paying them for their knowledge if your time is valuable.  Having a good relationship with an electrical supply house is invaluable when doing projects, because they will save you a fortune by steering you away from expensive mistakes.


Will 2 multi-port USB chargers overload a 13A socket?

You're comparing apples to oranges. You're using the power output, to try and determine the input.  Without knowing about the transformer, and other circuitry, that's going to be quite difficult.  According to the specification listed by the manufacturer

The unit will draw about 1.4 amperes at 100-240 volts AC (VAC), which I'm assuming is the value when the unit is fully loaded.

The 12 ampere value you're using, is the output current which is at 5 volts DC (VDC).

This unit takes in AC power, steps it down and converts it to DC power.  The devices that are connected to it, then draw DC power to charge. The unit seems to be able to supply 12 amperes at 5 VDC, though it's not likely all the connected devices will take advantage of the full available current.

The 60 watts, is the amount of power available on the output side of the device.

12 amperes * 5 VDC = 60 watts


Is this ceiling box wiring correct and how can I reconnect an abandoned 3-way switch to it?

That part on the left can't be right. If you closed the sink light switch it would trip the breaker. That is a dead short from hot to neutral.

The black tape is not a mistake. That should be the feed to the switch and the black is the switch leg that returns to the light. Then the light is connected to the neutral with the others.

The black wire to the 2 gang box should be used for the hot or the red but not both. Right now you have the black wire seriesed through the light.

I don't think they make a duplex switch with a three way in it.

Does the dining area ceiling box feed a fan/light? You have a hot feed going to it along with a switch leg.

You are attempting a pretty complicated setup for your first time. There is a little bit of a learning curve to this.

You may need to post a more extended diagram of the devices and the wires running between each.

Sorry I can't help more.

Edit I see your extended diagram explains the kitchen light switch was not a dead short but just power to the switch. You had the white marked black but have corrected that in your last drawing. Using red for the switched power and travelers is the better method as others pointed out. Your final drawing looks electrically sound. With your current wiring it is not possible, but the NEC requires a neutral at switch locations with a few exceptions. If you are not being inspected you could consider this 'grandfathered' wiring. In the future, you should take a neutral to the switch location.


How risky is it to drain window wells into an interior drain tile system?

You're right on target with the questions you've asked.  You want to prevent water from collecting around the house.  Ideally, it's best to avoid water being there in the first place.  If you can't do that, that next best solution is to give it a place to go to get rid of it as quickly as possible.  That can be accomplished on the exterior or the interior.  If you put in a system to get rid of water, the benefit will come from letting it get rid of as much problem water as you can get into it.

To drain the window wells, don't just drill holes and let the water run down the wall into the floor drain.  Stick a pipe through the wall with the wall opening sealed around the pipe, and direct the water into the drain while keeping it contained.  Use some form of screen or filter on the inlet so the pipe doesn't get clogged with debris.

As you noted, once the basement is no longer sealed, water can migrate in as well as drain out.  The interior drain, itself, is a potential path, and any other exterior water you provide with a path adds to it.  It is critical to have a reliable and redundant system to get rid of the water or your basement can become the collection system.

Sump pumps don't last forever, so have a second, backup pump.  Power can go out in a storm, which is the likely time when water will be feeding the system.  So use some form of battery backup or make one of the pumps battery- or dual-powered and include a provision for keeping the battery charged and tested.  Or have the pumps on a backup generator.


Ooooh, fiber mesh. Proprietary crap like that is how sellers pad their profit margins. It is like when car dealers sell you "undercoating".

The weight of the vehicle and thickness of the concrete does not matter. What matters is the subsurface. If the subsurface is solid 1" (inch) of concrete will support a cement truck. If it is not, it could break under its own weight no matter how thick it is.

This shows the cross section of a Roman road:

As you can see the pavement on top is relatively thin. What is important is the 10 feet of drainage and support under the pavement that makes the road last for thousands of years. The same principle applies to your driveway.


Is it likely that this single skin brick wall can support a large kitchen cabinet?

I'd have no qualms hanging a kitchen wall cabinet on a single skin garage wall. 37cm deep sounds like a base cabinet. That's going to give scope for larger loads.

Should still be fine though. The closer you hang it to one of the piers, the better.


This is quite normal

Because you aren't plugging a 15A space heater into every circuit with the dishwasher, microwave, dryer, A/C, water heater, and stove all running full blast,  circuits have two values associated with them: an ampacity, and a rated load.  The ampacity is set by the wire in the wall and the wiring devices (receptacles, light fixtures, switches) connected to said wires, and is governed by the circuit breaker in the panel, which will be selected according to the Code rules (Article 240 and Table 310.15(B)(16)) in order to protect the wire and wiring devices from overloads and shorts.  The rated load, however, is set based on a series of rules provided in the National Electrical Code (Part II of Article 220, to be precise):

General lighting and receptacles are provided for by an allowance that covers all such branch circuits (for a residence/dwelling unit, this is 3VA per square foot).
Kitchen and laundry small appliance branch circuits add 1500VA each.
Furthermore, there is a demand factor applied to the above loads to account for not everything in your house being on all the time.  (You get to halve any of this general receptacle/lighting load that is above 10kVA, in other words.)
Standard residential electric dryers are counted using an allowance of 5000VA.  Likewise, electric ranges get an allowance based on the size of the range -- for all but the largest residential ranges, 8000VA is a safe figure, but some extreme cases may require the full complexity of the Code's procedure for this.
Finally, other appliances on dedicated circuits get counted as nameplate loads. (In other words, they use the power figure on the appliance's label/nameplate, which will be same label where the UL/ETL/... markings are found.)

Adding all these up gives you the rated load for your service, which needs to be less than the 100A mark in your case given that that is the ampacity of your service.  If you tried to turn everything on full blast at once, though, you might trip the main -- this is your clue that you're running too many things for your service and probably don't need to be drawing quite so much electricity at that point in time, or need a bigger service to handle all the loads you have.

As to the rest of your questions

The inside main breaker is simply a shutoff switch, so its ampacity simply needs to be sufficient (not less than the current flowing through it) not correct (to protect anything) -- the real main breaker is the one located outside.  As to that weird looking breaker, it's what's called a quadruplex breaker that packs two 240 volt circuits into one pair of breaker spaces.


Is it OK to leave an in-ground sprinkler "winterized" all summer?

You'll be fine.  Winterized involves removing all of the water from the system so the pipes don't explode from the freezing temperature. Empty pipes during the warm summer won't be a problem.


High pitched whine from either the furnace blower fan or motor

Turn off the electrical power to the furnace and then take the blower door off the furnace. Reach into the blower in the end opposite the motor and try to wiggle, lift or other wise move the blower fan up and down. if it moves up/down you could have worn motor bearings. If it doesn't move then try as @George Anderson wrote. If this is an older unit the bearings could be in need of lubrication. Note, that some motors can not be lubricate which would indicate a need for the motor to be replaced.  Hope this helps.


Can I use a 150A cable to feed through a 200A breaker subpanel?

The conductors will have to be full size to the 200A breaker. Remember what protects the conductor is the 200A breaker if you reduce the conductor size there must be an additional breaker to protect the the current carrying conductor. NEC does allow for the feeder to be reduced for the final 1/3 distance of a feeder which is probably impractical, but it does allow the subpanel to have 150A buss.


Toggle Light Switch - Two Lights, One Electrical Source

Your question is unclear, your first "doubt" tho gives us the clue tho that you want the "functionality" in a switch styled different than what you have pictured.

Google "SPDT Center Off switch", it's available in many form factors and styles, including "wall switch" or household type.   (Avoid "momentary" in the description, those will 'spring' back to center rather than stay maintained On in one position or the other--I mention this only because Google search suggestions try to force me into the 'momentary' switches.)

(SPDT = Single Pole Double Throw)


How do I float 3/4" plywood sheets over above grade concrete without nailing, screwing or gluing to the slab?

you can just rabbet each sheet with a halflap type edge (i would make it about 2 inches wide), then glue and screw through both to attach the system together.  a little more work than usual, but relatively simple once you get going. you can build a simple jig for your circular saw out of plywood to ensure it all lines up properly.  if you drill the upper lip on the edge, the screw will suck the joint up and tight.

FYI, if you are going to float ply over a slab, lay down and tape seal a poly vapour (6mil or heavier) barrier before you put down the ply.  this will prevent moisture from being absorbed by the subfloor and oak and avoid rot and warpage.


There is no reason to compromise the proper installation of the appropriate width door just because you just want to remove one stud. Do it right and remove two studs if necessary and install additional king studs and jack studs compatible with the rough opening. Done properly the header can span the jack studs and carry the load like it is supposed to. No metal hanger brackets are needed if this is done the correct way.

The only real additional effort involved with doing it right is that you will have to open up a bit more of the wall from one side. And that leads to a bit more drywall work to patch it back up --- that is unless of course the wall was already open from one side.


What do I need to do to finish a roof with exposed rafters on a shed

The diagram you showed is fine. That is really all you need to do. I might add a small strip of 1X2 along the wall as a nailer for the soffit.  The only alternative would be substituting a vented soffit panel for the solid soffit. Using a vented soffit would help a little in exiting hot air and give a bit of ventilation. Best used with a ridge vent for really good ventilation, but better than nothing if used alone.


Can I put one brand of paint over a different brand of paint?

Technically yes as long as it is the same base (assuming your existing valspar paint was latex, you would need another latex paint).

The sheen or finish of your paint (flat/satin/semi/gloss) is of no concern and shouldn't provide a problem.

However, doing so likely won't do what you want.  Assuming your dissatisfaction in texture is more than simply the difference between flat/gloss paint, it means the surface you painted was likely the source of your roughness.  You need to smooth (sand) the surface before painting.


How can I attach a Pergola/lean-to to a pebble dash wall?

I would suggest fastening a piece of wood horizontally across at the top, and then fastening your shelter to that.  Using the appropriate fastenings (for either wood or masonry) to fasten the wood to the house.  This would only leave two or three holes that need to be patched if your pergola/lean to was removed.

Don't chisel any stones off the wall.  It will be unsightly and a difficult repair if the pergola is ever removed.

Before you proceed, make sure it is not against your housing association rules...


How do I clean backsplash tiles to reuse them?

For porcelain and ceramic tiles, a weak vinegar solution will often loosen mastic (and/or grout) to the point that it can be scraped off pretty easily. Do not use this on a limestone tile. Other natural materials might necessitate a test with a broken tile, just to check. If you see bubbles from anything other than the mastic, don't use vinegar.


If the problem is the receptacle in the picture, you have to remove the factory installed jumper (brass connection) that is between the 2 screws in the bottom picture. with the jumper removed, each terminal is separate so 1 is constant on and the other is controlled by the switch.


Where can I get engineering info drafted for a custom header?

The city wants design documentation stamped by a licensed Professional Engineer.  For off-the-shelf components the supplier may be able to provide a generic stamped design and as long as it's installed and assembled according to the plans, it will be acceptable.
But it you are building a structure with lumber or other piecemeal components, the design itself needs to be stamped.  No "special software" will cut it.  It needs to be an engineer licensed in your state.
For what you appear to be doing, basically building up a structural member from components, it will need to be analyzed and stamped before it will pass inspection.


You can run along the side for parallel as you have done,
Going down the “face” of the rafter is ok.  Make sure to stay away from the roof side, you don’t want any future roofing nails punching through the cable.


Help identifying the manufacturer of a door by its sticker

A Google search for "stl dr dksn std" returns results from Masonite, Jeld-Wen, and STL.


What can I do about slow running water in my Whirlpool refrigerator?

The filter will definitely restrict the flow, but it might be made worse if there is already a flow issue present.

Many DIY waterline install kits come with self-piercing saddle valves.  Compared to the 1/2" pipe they are fitted on (and even the 1/4" supply line), the hole they make is relatively small which reduces water flow to the fridge.

Your best bet is to not use these types of valves at all and instead solder in a tee fitting with a new 1/4 turn ball valve.  If you can't do this, an alternative is to remove the saddle valve and carefully drill a larger hole in the pipe, and then re-install the valve.


Typically A 1/2 Switched outlet is broken in the middle of the tab between the two screws. If the one outlet is always powered, there is constant power to that outlet and the other outlet is connected to the switch leg of the light switch.  If this is the case, then that outlet should already have a GFCI on it. If not, then you can replace the outlet with the GFCI but you want to be sure that the Switched 1/2 of the outlet is capped off, Taped and Labeled in the Box.

Pictures are also Wonderful to see. (-;


What is the best tool to rip laminate flooring planks to width?

Use a flooring saw like this type Skill Flooring Saw. Much much safer and easier to use than a table saw. Look at the video in the link.

Here