Sound proofing bedroom doors, what to do about air flow?

Anytime you replace a soft flooring (carpet) with a hard flooring (hardwood) you get a noisy footstep. Isolating and soundproofing the bedrooms from the hallway is nearly impossible. If you have an older house, with supply and return ducting in that room, you can replace the doors with solid core doors and a reduced bottom undercut to help reduce the noise transmission. With a newer home that only has a central return duct, usually in a hallway, you can not reduce the doors undercut since this the return air from the room. The central return allows a HVAC company to save a few bucks at the home owners expense. To me, this is a crappy and cheap job. I got into the HVAC business in the late 1960's and this type of installation was unheard of. Today, almost every contractor is doing it. 20+ years ago, when I built this house all the contractors that wanted to install a central return were given their walking papers. I searched until found a contractor that would install an older type duct system. I do not know what you can do at the bedroom locations except recommend walking in your socks and leave slippers and shoes for the other areas. You could insulate the bedroom walls and install solid cor doors to reduce some of the noise but the solid surfaces are still going to be noisy.  my 2 cents


I had the same issue. All the instructions i found said connect one of the unused wires to the C terminal on the furnace and to the C terminal on the stat. Problem for me was there was no C terminal. I finally found a thread that was specific to my brand and it said connect the furnace side to the chassis. I had already come to the same conclusion after studying my wiring diagram but had continued looking just to be sure. I Did that and it works fine.


Is it normal to smell sewer gas from a plumbing vent?

It is normal for sewage gas to escape from drain vents. That's why they usually vent through the roof, that and unclogging. The vents tie directly into the pipes that lead to the sewers. There are plumbing traps that can cut down on the amount of gas that escapes but some will always escape. The vent cap should help but just make sure they don't seal the vent.


How can I convert a 120V chandelier to 240V?

The wire is usually rated for 600V; check that first if it is and you can find lamps that fit the sockets at 220-240V with the same wattage or less than the maximum wattage. If lamps that fit at the correct wattage are available you could connect the black wire center pin on the fixture to your hot and the white wire to the neutral conductor or shell and last if a metal fixture connect the ground from the fixture to the service ground and it should work. There are sockets to switch from U.S. base to European bases so that bulbs from overseas can fit.


I think I've figured out what this is - I imagine there have been sconces here for quite some time (although the ones I removed were more recently updated). I'm guessing these wires were simply extended to the other sconce where there are only two wires - basically this was the older version of what today you would solve with a pigtail. Assuming the new sconces have wire leads I should be able to just couple them in here with a yellow cap.


Is the permeability of normal shellac (flakes dissolved in spirits) the same as Zinsser B-I-N sealer?

I cannot answer this question but can tell you what we did to get the answers we needed.  We emailed (or you could call for) the specific questions we needed answered to the manufacturer of the Shellac product...Zinsser, by Rust-Oleum.  They responded in a couple of days and were very helpful.


Can a 110v 3-wire thermostat be hooked up to a 110v 2-wire condo setup?

The King Model ESP120-R is not compatible with your wiring.  The third wire is the neutral, which this electronic thermostat requires to be operable.  Your original thermostat functions as a temperature controlled switch, connecting or disconnecting the heat without any need for externally supplied power.  Either you need a new replacement thermostat that also uses no separately supplied power, or you need to have your wiring altered.


Why does my GFCI outlet trip as soon as the breaker is turned on?

Neutrals shouldn't be connected together with the GFCI. Connect the neutral of the line and load to the appropriate connections on each side of the GFCI. Otherwise, the current will appear to go out via the hot connection and not return via the neutral on the load side of the connection, which is exactly the scenario that the GFCI detects and trips on.

Also, note this important tip from Shirlock, use the push in connectors for the GFCI outlets: When to use holes instead of side terminals to wire an outlet


Check out my blog,

Humble, just trying to share my experience implementing nest on a 220 240 v system

http://usingnestthermostatineurope.wordpress.com/


pipe threads are tapered so cutting the pipe shorter (eg use a hacksaw) would likely not result in the faucet going on any further, instead you'll probably need to have the threads on the pipe re-cut deeper and longer.


For any future searches, here's an example product.

"Edge glued panel" or "edge laminated board" are probably the best search terms.


Code requirements for lights mounted horizontally?

While there is code that does NOT permit bare incandescent bulbs in closets and hanging fixtures over a shower zone, unfinished basements are not on the list.  As suggested by Harper, fluorescent lights are a nice "work" light.


Only you can answer if it's "worth it".  I would imagine if it did flood, the damage would be more than $400 and you'd be kicking yourself that you didn't spend that $400.  If you die at 100 years old and it never flooded, I guess then you could say it wasn't worth it.


Dishwasher supply line leaking when attached to unit

Teflon tape will likely make this problem worse.

Threaded fittings for fluids basically come in two types - thread sealed, or gasket sealed.

Fittings made to be sealed by the threads have threads designed to draw themselves together as you tighten them - the fittings are slightly tapered, so as you tighten the threads, the tolerance between the threaded surfaces decreases to the point of being near-zero. The fittings slowly get harder and harder to turn until the threads are basically binding together. These fittings need a sealant to take up the last tiny amount of space and to account for manufacturing tolerances. This is what teflon tape or liquid "pipe dope" sealants are made for.

Other fittings use straight threads, similar to the threads on nuts and bolts. These threads are designed with a specific tolerance between the parts that allows them to thread fully on without any interference. Threads in this style of fitting are not designed to seal and will do a poor job, at best, of sealing the liquid passing through the fitting. Instead of the threads providing a seal, there is typically a gasket (or a flared surface acting as a gasket) inside the fitting. The threads are there to provide clamping pressure to hold that gasket snug between the mating surfaces inside the fitting. In order to do this, the threads need to be free to allow you to tighten the parts together properly. You don't want the threads to bind as they get tighter, because that could mean you're not able to actually snug the gasket down, or it could mean that you incorrectly think the gasket is snug before it is. The threads need to turn freely until the fitting is snug against the gasket. While a fitting with tapered threads will slowly get tighter as you turn it, a fitting with a gasket will spin freely until it's bottomed out against the gasket - it'll feel more like spinning a nut down a bolt until it's bottomed out.

Putting teflon tape on such a fitting is an easy way to screw it up. If you only put a small amount of tape on, it may provide enough lubrication that it makes it easy to accidentally over-tighten the fitting, which can either deform the gasket, or crack one of the two parts. If you put a lot of tape on, it will make it impossible to engage the threads deeply enough to actually clamp the gasket down between the two surfaces. Either way, the tape has created a problem. Even if you magically manage to put just enough tape on that neither of those situations occurs, using tape to seal the threads will not actually seal the fitting itself, unless the gasket is operating properly - you can see by looking at the female fitting of the elbow you have that if the gasket wasn't there, water could leak around the base of those threads and out the "top" of the fitting even if the threads were sealed. The tape hasn't actually solved the problem, even if it's not causing problems. You still need the gasket to do the sealing.

So - tape is the wrong idea here. Take the tape off, inspect both sides of the fitting to make sure there is no damage. The plastic threads on the male side are very easy to strip and you may have already stripped or cracked them in your earlier attempts. If the part is damaged, contact the manufacturer to get a replacement. Usually that plastic fitting is on a removable plate that's gasketed to the machine, so you can replace it easily.

If the parts aren't damaged, go ahead and attempt to put the fitting in place again. Make sure there's no strain introduced by the flex line on the other end of the elbow - make sure the threads are going on straight, and the fitting is tightened down to the point that the gasket is clamped in place.

If it still leaks, then you may need to contact the manufacturer for replacement parts anyways. And next time, be careful as you thread it on so as to not damage the threads, and don't use tape!

Also, find a new handyman...


Dig out any rotted wood that you can get to.  Soak the wood with wood hardener around the patch area to stabilize the rotted/deteriorated wood that you couldn't get to.  Fill with bondo or wood filler in 1/4" layers until slightly bulging from the patch area.  Chisel/file/sand down when the final layer is almost completely dry with a sanding block.  Prime and paint.  The patch should outlast the rest of your door!


Should I leave a gap between clay bricks when laying a patio?

Yes, you should leave a small gap, but not for the reasons you are asking.

You will be concerned with evenness. Reclaimed bricks won't have a chamfer on the edges the way paving bricks will, so small differences in your sand bed will be very noticeable to feet and patio furniture.

Your gap size will be mostly aesthetic, but wider gaps will make your bricks less stable. To space it, just use anything that is the right size, e.g. scrap wood or screws, and fill in your joints every few feet.


Why were only some of my tools damaged when connected to a 240V receptacle?

Many devices are rated for either 110 or 220. There should be a tag on the device which says this. In some appliances its done intentionally so that one model can be sold and safely used in countries which use either voltage. In other cases its simply dumb luck that the component parts can tolerate either voltage.

I'm not sure if this fully answers your question. "The device is rated for it" doesn't really cover what aspects of the device make this possible.


Is it advisable to run electric cable inside a steel pipe?

Wires are routinely run in steel conduit, NOT pipe. Old water pipes would be rough and may have standing seams that can cut the insulation. The electrical code in the U.S. would not allow this because the water pipe is not listed for wiring purposes. Used water pipe for a wire way is asking for problems. Added:
  I currently work in a lumber mill. A few months ago the owner bought almost 1k' of used conduit big stuff. We cut off most of the rusty threads and tossed the rusted conduit. To make a tough week+ of pulling 500kcm 3 phase we had a short in the pipe on the first pull then 2 on the second . This was only ~200' after the 2nd pull and close to 600' of 500 being damaged. We now don't use rusty conduit. This has happened in just the last few years with used conduit. Water pipe is much worse.


Is it ok to use a brass compression sleeve on vinyl tubing?

To get a good "squeeze" when using a brass ferrule on plastic tubing, without collapsing the tube, you should be using a tubing insert:


How to find the splitter box for cable TV?

Basement, attic, crawlspace, & closet (removable panel?). Attached garage?

Possibly does not exist and is a direct run.

Start by finding where the coaxial cable enters your house and try to trace it from there.

If it enters directly behind the working jack, it's likely a direct run by the cable company who did not tie into your existing (questionable quality) wiring.

See also, Why are most of my cable/coax wires disconnected?


Is this an A-series or a T-series light bulb?

It is an older style Philips Halogena bulb meant to replace the typical incandescent bulb.  The lamp is a quartz halogen tube enclosed in a glass envelope that resembles an older style light bulb.  The 70 watt actual / 100 watt equivalent spec sheet for this style bulb can be seen here:

http://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/046677209698/halogena-energy-saver-household/specifications

In this case you have a 43 actual / 60 equivalent.  "A19" and "T60" are essentially the same thing.  "A" designates the original light bulb shape and "19" designates the diameter in eighths of an inch (bulb shape, 2.375" diameter).  "T" designates tubular shape, but unlike florescent tubes where the number indicates eighths of an inch, in this case the number is in millimeters.  "60" in indicates 2.36" diameter.  For all intents the two are interchangeable.

In the most recent version of this 60 watt halogen, Philips changed the glass envelope from metric "T60" to the english "A19":

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-EcoVantage-60-Watt-Halogen-A19-Soft-White-Dimmable-Light-Bulb-4-Pack-426031/203637006


Is my chimney safe if it has ash on the walls of it?

Ash is not flammable, and ash can sometimes be in flake form.  If that is what you have, there is no danger.

Even if there is some creosote buildup, that is not necessarily dangerous either.  What is dangerous if there is enough heat and creosote thickness for the creosote to burn long enough that it overheats the chimney causing structural weakening, or emits sparks which ignite combustibles outdoors like a wood shake roof, trees, shrubbery, or other structures.

If creosote buildup is minimal (less than 1/4 inch), it can be safely removed by building a hot fire to burn it out.  If you aren't sure about doing that, don't hesitate to bring in an expert:  either a firefighter or a chimney professional, though the latter tend to have a conflict-of-interest.


How do you bend a sheet a drywall into a curve?

Dampening and scoring the back paper is the right way to prepare drywall for installation around a curve.  A quick back-of-the-envelope calculation says that the radius of curvature was about 30", which should have been OK (my drywall book says 20" minimum for 1/2" panels).  You may simply have been unlucky with it breaking.

There are flexible drywall panels, though I've never seen them in the stores.  Failing that, you could also try a double thickness of 1/4" panels, which are widely available.


It sounds like you fill valve is not properly set, or has failed. Do not run the furnace until you are sure the system (boiler shell, circulating pipes, and radiators) are completely filled with water.

If the water level in the boiler gets too low the system could be damaged. Boilers usually have a fuse plug that limits the damage if the water level fails, but that plug cannot be reset and is expensive to replace.

A typical circulating hot-water heating system has an automatic fill valve connected to the house water supply, which admits water to the system until the pressure rises to a preset level. (Usually the level is set to match the total height of the system.) This valve can become blocked by a tiny amount of shmutz in the supply line.

Sometimes you can clean and reset the automatic fill valve but sometimes you have to replace it.


Connecting standpipe to 1 1/2" brass waste pipe?

Based on you answer in the comments my answer would be.

Presumably if it was a sink then its vent was provided by the nearby main stack so you should be able to put a san-tee on it and p-trap into the san-tee. BUT it could have had a vent coming of the original san-tee and connecting elsewhere to the stack ?

You want the san-tee low so that you have room enough to put a tall vertical pipe on top of the P-trap so the washing machine discharge does not splash back.

I would, since you do not know for sure if it is vented to the main, stack run pipe up off of the top of the san-tee  as high as you can ( at least a foot or more if you can above the top of the top of the washing machine drain pipe ) and put an air admittance valve on top of that.


Have a look at Iris. You can mix and match components such as door/window sensors, thermostats, motion sensors, etc. It hooks to your wifi and can send you text alerts.


What could have caused these cracks, and how can I repair them?

(Caveat: I'm a DIY type, not an expert.)

Diagonal cracks in old houses are usually the result of settling. Houses start out square, but they shift over time -- and turning a square into a parallelogram means stretching one diagonal and squashing the other. I've got some of these in my house, slightly older than yours -- most were patched and repainted before I bought the place but are still visible if you look carefully, a few were probably caused when I had a loadbearing wall replaced with a parallam beam.

If the cracks are new, and you haven't done anything like I did which might cause stresses to be redistributed, you should consider getting the place inspected by a contractor and/or engineer to make sure it isn't currently moving. You may need to install lally columns in the basement, or do some foundation work, to properly support the house so it stops moving.

Or it may be something more serious, but that's why you want the experts to look at it. (Neighbors had to demolish the old farmhouse they were hoping to rescue, when they discovered that it was both off the foundation AND had a broken main roof beam. Either would have been repairable by itself, but no reputable contractor would touch that combination.)

As far as repairing them: Once you're sure that the shifting which caused them isn't still in progress, it's like any other plaster repair. For small cracks, apply patching plaster, sand, repeat if necessary until the wall is smooth and level, and repaint. For larger cracks, you may need to use mesh tape to help support the patching plaster while it hardens. It may be desirable to undercut the crack slightly, to help ensure that the new plaster gets a good grip on the old.

If the house is going to continue to move, you're probably going to have to repair the crack repeatedly. Some folks suggest, in that case, using a paintable elastic caulk in place of the patching plaster; I'm skeptical.


How do I secure a copper pipe going through a wall?

Use a stainless steel hose clamp (sometimes called a worm clamp becasue of the screw it uses) and a couple of L-brackets  - clamp the L-brackets to the pipe using the hose clamp, screw them into the wall with wood screws.

The fussiest, hardest to find and most expensive aproach would be to find copper or copper-plated L-brackets ("pipe strap" would be easier to find but less rigid.)

The practical, less expensive and just as functional approach is to use steel L-brackets and place some durable plastic or rubber material between them and the copper pipe to prevent corrosion. Clamping steel directly to copper will result in galvanic corrosion and an eventual leak.

You can also use stand-off clamps intended for wall mounting on the vertical portion of the pipe.

The "long-gone plumber" certainly does not appear to have worked to normal plumbing standards...


How to make a small piece of wood smaller with limited tools

Your circular saw will do the job, but you should make a jig to guide the saw instead of trying to follow a pencil line. You will need a couple of pieces of straight lumber a little longer than the cut you want to make. Many books and articles say to use scrap wood but I sometimes use good lumber destined for use later.

The technique is to cobble together an assembly with an inside corner that the saw's foot plate can be pressed against, with the piece to be cut positioned in the path of the blade. Sometimes you can clamp the assembly together but I find that the clamps get in the way so I usually use small nails.

The shape of the jig will depend on what material you have on hand to make it. Here is a suggestion:

Please forgive the crude cross section but it should convey the main idea.


Why is part of a circuit without power after an applicance short?

The sad part is your electrician should have figured this out and properly repaired in a very short time line. It may be dangerous to properly repair the circuit now that it has been re fed from another location (and possibly from a different leg) causing a dangerous situation for a future repair, remodel.
The proper way would have been to go to the last working outlet and check the connections then the first non working outlet these 2 locations are where 99% of these type of electrical failures are located when the breaker has not tripped and there are additional working outlets on the same breaker.
Usually I find a loose back stabb. But sometimes a broken wire at a wire nut or screw terminal.  If you do go back and repair this make sure the second feed from the main panel is removed.


Can a motorized damper be installed inside existing ductwork?

Try looking up belimo motorized dampers. They are excellent dampers, hopefully they are available in your area.

This is a Belimo damper actuatorBelimo

This is just an example. They do have less expensive ones. You'll need get a sheet metal shop to make the damper for you. You need to be very specific about the sizes and dimensions. If you don't use the right terminology they may get upset. You will probably need to use whatever damper actuators they stock.


Should I remove a broken piece of the pivot rod from the trap in my bathroom pedestal sink?

You could check if the remaining piece of pivot rod that you have in hand has magnetic properties (i.e. a magnet will stick to it). If so you can probably be successful in retrieving the broken part from the trap using a tool similar to those pictured below:

Magnetic reach tools can be purchased online, hardware stores or big box outlets. In addition to the type shown above that have the flexible shaft there is another type that has the shaft made out of a soft aluminum wire that can bend slightly as the thing is pushed into the drain line. This latter type is typically a lower cost than the types pictured.


How to stop the peeling of new paint that's not properly adhered to new drywall due to underlying spackle dust

After the fact? Sorry, no, the area where the problem is, is UNDER the paint, and adding something to the surface of the paint won't fix it. Scrape, sand or whatever it takes to get any poorly adhered paint off the wall, sand to feather edges, patch if need be, sand more, clean throughly, and repaint.

Or hire a pro painter to fix it...


How can I figure out where power is coming from in 4-way switch wiring?

Cable 3 goes to switch A.
Cable 4 goes to switch C.
Cable 1 goes to the lamp.
Hot is being supplied to the entire works by the one of the black wires at switch C.
Neutral is supplied by cable #2.

Supplying hot and neutral in separate locations like that is bizarre and not code legal.


How do I insulate around a gas fireplace without tearing it apart?

Without a picture of your fireplace, I couldn't tell for sure, but I would look in to fire brick. It is a near perfect insulator since it is a light brick with lots of air bubbles (air insulates).

Check here:

http://www.google.com/products?q=fire+brick&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=8n1YTJmlCd6Knwf7hZS2BA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CDIQrQQwAA

..or at a local fireplace store.


This is a reasonable concern, but not necessarily a problem. It is not uncommon to have concrete forms the way you describe. The solution depends largely on the consistency of the concrete mix. A very wet mix will run all over the place, a very dry mix will hardly flow out the end at all. This property is known as the "slump" of concrete, measured in inches. Slump value range from 1" (very thick, hard to work with) to 6"+ (very liquid).

If you are mixing the concrete yourself, aim for somewhere in the middle. If the concrete is being delivered, talk to the supplier about your use case and they should help you.


How can I smooth a seam between cement board?

You may break a few pieces(of marble) just picking them up.

A skim coat on either side of the joint will help.

Block feather with a concrete 'rubbing' block.

My marble floor always have Schluter Ditra under them.  I also use it with any questionable floor.

Ceramic tile can tolerate L/360 deflection, stone is twice as sensitive at L/720.

If you have any doubts about floor springiness, use an isolation membrane or stiffen joists or add a beam.  Cement board does little for stiffness.


How do I get my blower motor to turn on with my new hydronic coil heat?

You need the wiring that turns on the pump to also turn on the fan. You may need to add a relay to isolate the fan from the pump due to different voltages or any other problem that could create. You could also use a temperature controller to run the fan which is how commercial installations do it. A controller like the " honeywell  T675A1425" or a " White Rodgers 3F01-111 could be used, They would turn the fan on and off when hot water is present.


Those are external line head screws, and are used as anti-tamper screws in some Japanese electronics.  You can probably find a driver for them from a game console hack supplier (they're used on Gamecube, Wii, and some other game consoles).  The driver looks like this (sorry for the horrible pic):

They also come in 5 and 7 point varieties (hard to tell how many points from the picture you posted).  I've also seen them called torx inverted.

If you don't want to get a specific driver for them, you can probably get them out by clamping on the head really hard with a pair of vise-grips or use a screw extractor.  You might be able to find a socket that will mesh with them well enough, but that's a long shot.


concrete drive heaves where it meets garage floor

Frost heaves are caused by water in the ground freezing and pushing up. The thickness of the slab has nothing to do with it. The force caused by ice expanding when it freezes is huge, and it's almost certainly not practical to resist it. Better to remove the force in the first place.

There are only two ways to prevent frost heaving, and neither is perfect:

Dig down below the frost line. This is obviously not practical for a driveway. (Also, even a foundation whose bottom is below the frost line may be susceptible to heaving if water can freeze around the sizes and pull it up.)
Reduce the amount of water underneath the structure with grading, drains, etc. A properly-prepared subsurface can also help here by reducing the water content of the soil

What is the drainage situation like around your driveway?


Why does this junction box cover have an "under side"?

You will notice the cover is stamped and this keeps the rough. Sharper edge on the correct side.  This is what I was told by a factory rep even though the rough/sharp side is down (he said it actually helps hold the cover in place)


What can I place under my sofa cushions to reduce sag?

3/4" plywood will do the job, but the outcome will depend on how the sofa's supporting structure is built. You'll want to cut the sheet to a suitable shape and bullnose the edges with a router or sander to prevent it from cutting through the fabric of the cushions and the base. It probably will eventually, though. You could also wrap it with old sheets or similar to protect the sofa.


Shock on every metal part of the apartment

This sounds like a rather...static-y problem

Because the shocks take time to come back after they happen (instead of happening repeatedly every time you touch metal), this is most likely an issue with static electricity buildup, which can be due to a variety of factors, such as clothing and building materials used, ambient relative humidity, and such.  It's not a sign of electrical trouble, at least, though!


Got too aggressive with steel wool on pavers, how can I make this look right?

Without seeing the "damage" I can't say for sure, but your best bet would be to try and even things out a bit, and accept that you aren't going to get a perfect finish.

Use a finer grade steel wool and try and blend the patches so you don't have a sharp transition between the colours.

You might find that leaving it over a winter will even out the colouration anyway.


Would using a grounded extension cord negate the effects of a ground prong missing from device?

Nope!

Your problem is that you need to fix whatever is causing the shocks and replace the butchered plug.  There is no make-shift repair for this.


How can I determine why my whirlpool refrigerator has stopped running water?

Water inlet valve is probably fubar.  Part is probably here (YMMV):  http://bit.ly/1wkXC4G

How to video here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNGe_VUDIBA

Good luck!


Should I use concrete for a 2" square metal fence post?

Eight months later, here is my answer and update:

I called the my town's building division and determined the frost line for my region is 48". It wasn't possible for me to dig below 48", so I dug to the frost line and instead of using cement, I filled the hole with pea gravel (roughly three 0.5 cu ft bags), tamped it down with a 2x4, and topped with some of the soil I had removed when digging. My thought is the pea gravel will allow draingage, while still providing enough support for my narrow fence post. This might not work for larger posts.

So far, the fence post has been very sturdy and having gone through one winter, has not risen. I will report back if I find any issues with my solution, but so far, I'm satisfied with it.


Receptacle replacement voltage shows as 11V

Grounding

If you have a metal box, there should be a grounding pathway to the metal box.  This can be a ground wire attached to the box with a #10-32 screw in the threaded hole provided on the box; or metal conduit (but not necessarily armored cable); or a combination.

A receptacle has a set of metal ears on top and bottom. This is called a "yoke".  These metal parts are bonded internally to the ground socket holes and the ground screw.

If you have a grounded metal box... and the receptacle is screwed down so that the ears bottom out on the metal box... and you have solid metal-metal contact between receptacle and box... that is a valid grounding path.  It is not valid if the ears "hang up" on drywall or plaster and there's a bit of screw length. Despite being all metal, screws are not a valid grounding path.

Two breakers, two circuits

Imagine if you unfurl 500 feet of electrical wire parallel to a high tension line. Will you get a measurable voltage?  You bet.  You're picking it up like radio waves.  Will it be useful for anything?  Nope.

The same happens in wires running parallel in your house.  If one is hot and you test the other, sensitive voltmeters like a DVM will see a stray voltage.  It's not useful for anything; an incandescent night-light won't light up.  In fact, that's a great way to arrest this stray voltage: plug a night-light into one receptacle while measuring the other.

Other than that, I would say you have a very serious problem if the socket measures 120V with one breaker on, and 0V with both breakers on.  That would indicate something complicated and weird, and potentially dangerous.


What are these clips on the wires in my junction box?

They look like a type of push-in connector. If so they are in place of twist-on wire connectors and are not "just for protection", they are connecting the wires in a safe way.


What to do on the siding around a cable going into the house

Wow, he didn't really care much about craftsmanship. No drip loop sucks; see if there is any slack where you could pull it down a bit into a gentle loop and use a zip-tie to hold the shape (don't kink it). Really all I can see you doing is globbing silicone sealant around it; use the paintable type and maybe you could make it look a bit better by painting the glob once it has cured.

They make split wall bushings you could use to dress it but you would still need the glob of silicone to prevent water intrusion.


Damaged my garage - how should I repair?

If you want to do it right, it is a process.
 You need to start by removing the siding to get to the nails that hold the damaged vinyl trim to remove the whole piece. When that is off that will expose the remaining nails that hold the front edge of the garage door wrap. Remove the garage door weatherstip and that will either expose more nails that hold the back edge of the door wrap or the weatherstripping holds it without the extra nails. That should get you so you can remove all your damaged parts.

Get new coil stock to replace the garage door wrap and rent a metal break long enough to do the whole replacement piece. Make the same cuts as the original and nail back in the same locations, no need to be exact, but get them in the same area. Find the vinyl trim at you local builders supply and copy the same cuts and replace that and reset your siding that was numbered on the back side as you took it down to ease the reinstall process.

This is a simplified explanation. If you are game to do it yourself and do it right, ask what you need and you will get help.


How can I replace my light fixture with a ceiling fan?

Two part answer:

The North American wiring coloring standard is black for hot and white for neutral. But unless you've performed the wiring installation yourself, you can never assume black is hot. You should obtain a house wiring tester and test which wire is hot and which is neutral. Consult your fan instructions and connect the hot wire to the hot wire and neutral wire to neutral wire (assuming end or parallel installation).

For the weight of the fan itself, it is best to determine if the ceiling box (if you have one) is attached to a structural member of the ceiling with a lag bolt. If it isn't, consider adding a new ceiling fan box that would attached to a structural member. You would have to patch some drywall but it's safer than having the fan fall down at an unexpected time.


How can I wire 3 Lutron Caseta dimmer switches in bathroom?

We gotta do something about that mess

There's no way to avoid the fact that this many wires will be a huge mess in this box.  It's already a huge mess and efforts were made to keep it neat.

Your #1 problem is just what you're running into - wires are not well-marked.  You've done yourself a huge favor by identifying everything before you tore it all apart.  But now let's mark every single wire before we go any further.  Get some colored tape.

Color coding

Wires themselves are color-coded thusly.

Green for ground (mandatory)
White or gray for neutral (mandatory).
Hot - any other color.  It's convenient to use black for always-hot, or a second color if you have 2 circuits in there, which mercifully you do not.

Wires can also be marked with black or colored tape.  If a wire is a hot color, marking it with tape is only an identifier.   If in cable, marking a neutral with a hot color makes it a hot.  This probably won't come up in  your case, just don't do that.   Putting white, gray or green on a hot colored wire does NOT make it a neutral or ground (unless the wire is quite large, like #00 or larger).  So feel free to use white or green to mark a hot.

Anytime you mark a wire, take the time to mark it on both ends - otherwise you'll lose your mind later.

Mark those hots

This is what's really happening.  Notice it's fairly straightforward when you untangle the wires.

Right now, you have supply coming in, and 4 loads going out.  Supply neutral is simply nutted with the 4 load neutrals in a big 5-bundle.  Grounds all go to those plentiful and convenient ground screws in the back of the box - you'll be adding more to those, as many of your switches will want ground and some will NEED ground.  The screws that hold it down, are not good enough as a ground path.

Then your supply "hot" goes to every single switch.  It looks like in some cases, like #3, it uses both a screw and a backstab to make the connections. The screw-backstab are connected together internally.  If you have a non-contact voltage tester (or a contact one), this will be the terminal that is always hot, even when all the switches are off.   This is the same wire.  I recommend you color-code this one black.    Which it already is in most cases.  Mark it with black tape otherwise.  Be very clear which cable this comes from, I would even go ahead and mark the black wire with black tape to make it clear.

Then, off each switch, is a "switched-hot" wire going to the load.  This is the one you want to carefully mark.   This wire is only energized when the switch for that load is on.  I want you to use your colored electrical tape to mark every single one of them something other than black.  When you get pigtails on the switches, mark them too.   Now it looks like this

Every single wire has a color, and the color matches its purpose.

This is the key to not losing your mind in a box like this.

Adding those smart switches

It's going to get more messy with the smart switches.  Some of them will need neutral.   That neutral bundle already has 5 wires in it, we'll ned to add one more - a short pigtail, maybe 6" or so.  That pigtail will go to another new wirenut which will take all the neutrals from the smart switches.  You can get special connectors designed to take as many as 8 wires, if you can't get 6 in a wire nut.

The smart switches may also dangle unused pigtails, but you're familiar with that.

End up looking like this


Power tool for scraping paint off windows

No no no, you really don't want to do that

As Alaska Man says... "power tools near glass, what could go wrong?"

I strip a lot of paint off a lot of windows because I hate masking.  And it's not super-easy latex paint either - it's alkyds or LPUs (which are a fight) or worse, 2-pack epoxy primer, which has an uncanny bite on glass (how??)    Or silicone sealants.

Just go to town with a bottle of Windex and a stack of sharp razor blades.  It's really fast work, and I don't see how a power tool could help. Keep the area wet with Windex.  If you don't want to waste Windex that way, dilute any lliquid soap; the purpose is to lubricate the razor blade to keep it from scratching and extend its life.  Let a good rain take the soap away and windex it at the end.  Do Not Do This Dry.

If it's slow going, you're doing it dry, or using dull razor blades (change those lickity split, they are your enemy as they will scratch the glass!  Also, there are no medals/awards for conserving razor blades, and they recycle 100% because the landfill shreds your trash and runs a magnet over it to pick up ferrous waste).


How should I fasten my shed rafters together at the peak?

First I have a barn that is very very similar - basically exactly the same, but I just enclosed the overhang section.
So I would suggest something similar to the picture below - you can google "roof truss plate".  (obviously not a perfect example as that top center hole is not needed... this is not a great example, just the shape of the plates I have used before)
There are simpson ties that you can use shaped like this.   Whats the "bottom"?   I greatly suggest that you block each rafter connection a few inches below - small 2x6.   This will keep uneven loads or winds from pushing one side vs another.
You will also need to rows of blocking on each side.   This will not only help secure the sheathing for the roof but are structural against lateral rafter movement.


protecting a wood deck from rot next to a stone patio

I have used an air gap of 1/2" +  for some air circulation . Over the years it tends to collect soil and leaves so I have occasionally cleaned it out.


How can I remove oil stains from a concrete floor?

Clay Absorbent.

This stuff is available at most auto parts repair stores.  Sometimes it is available at big box stores.

It is NOT the same as cat litter although it looks strikingly similar.  The resemblance is so close that "kitty litter" is the 'street' name for this product.

However, clay absorbent is far superior in its ability to remove oil from concrete.  For example, my father and I moved a broken 2.5 hp motor over a concrete walkway in a plastic tub.  At some point the load became unstable and the engine tilted enough to force us to drop the tub.  In doing so, we streaked the walkway with oil approximately 2" wide and 6" long.

Since I was away from home and he did not have any clay absorbent on hand, I promptly drove to purchase some and placed the product according to the manufacturers directions.  After the second application was swept up, I made a third application and ground the product into the concrete with my shoe and left it to sit until the next rain washed it away (not recommended, but hey the walkway was pristine beforehand and my dad has a low carbon footprint).

To this day, there is a spot on the walkway that is cleaner than the rest.  I am not exaggerating in the least when I say that the entire section now needs the ground-in-and-washed-off treatment to help minimize the white spot left behind where there was a dark black oil spot before.

Two applications should do for what you need.  Skip the ground in trick unless you promise to recover the waste water ;)

Edit:// Just read where you said spots are old and kitty litter will not work.

Try the clay absorbent.  It is about 100% more effective than cat litter on any day.  Also, if it does not come up, leave it for a night or two.

Other than that, (using a test spot!!!) dampen the concrete with fresh oil (detergents good...) then place the oil dry over it and leave for at least a day.  If all else fails, grind it in!


How to store my pliers and wire cutters on my desk?

Here is my invention for you.

It is a board.  The pliers and snips that volunteered for this project straddled it nicely.  If you cut off the ends of the board and reattached them at right angles (with glue or a screw) so it looks like a letter I it would be steadier than this one, which was propped on the 2x4 back there.

The little red pliers did not have legs as heavy as the others and so wobbled a bit.  You could cut a notch in the top for any like that.


Switch Between Paint and Sealer for Sprayer

If you want to switch back and forth between oil and latex products, it is best to have a separate hose for each (as per Graco).

  Graco sprayers, hoses, guns, etc, are designed to be compatible
  with all of these types of fluids. There are a few other
  considerations that you should be aware of. Be sure that all equipment
  is of sufficient size and of a high enough pressure rating to work
  with the material that is being sprayed. Another issue to be aware of
  is that no matter how well a sprayer is cleaned out, some residue will
  remain behind. It is not uncommon to have pigmented paints contaminate
  a clear coating like varnish and lacquer. Switching between
  water-based and solvent-based materials can also make the insides of
  the pump gummy and sticky. Ideally, we would recommend two different
  sprayers, but at the very least, you should use a dedicated hose for
  lacquer and clear coatings.


Can i use a water heater as my source for the in floor Pex tubing system?

It's all about heat load.

A very well insulated building may have a heat load so low that most boilers would be operating very inefficently to meet the load - sitting idle most of the time, even on "design days" when the heat load is at the greatest due to the outside temperature being the lowest temperature designed for (thus, "design day.")

As a practical example, I have a radiant floor system installed in a building with a design-day load of 30-36,000 BTU/hr. A typical "small" boiler is 100,000 BTU/hr, so it would be in standby 2/3 of the time even on that coldest day (which is typically for no more than a week, and not every year.) A water heater can be more closely matched to the load, simply because they are available in smaller sizes.

As for tank .vs. no tank, it's largely irrelevant - there are inefficient and efficient versions of both (and much of the hype for tankless heaters being "more efficient" due to no standby losses falls down in houses where hot water is actually used, at modern insulation levels which lower standby losses; especially considering greater complexity and maintenance expense that is often associated with tankless.) A common example (and commonly used for radiant heat) of an efficient tank type is the polaris, at something like 95% efficient and a condensing design.

If you have a larger heat load, an efficient condensing boiler might be a better choice - that has to to with the whole building construction, not the heat delivery method.


Is it feasible for one person to level a 12ft wide concrete foundation slab on their own?

If you don't simply have the concrete company screed it for you (a good idea), hire a helper for an hour or two so you can screed sensibly from outside the forms. The difference between you walking down the middle of the slab and trying to fill your footsteps and them doing that is that they have some experience with filling footsteps when they HAVE to walk in it. But they'll almost certainly have two people screed it from outside the forms, and you should, too. Walking through it is not the preferred method.

As an aside, steel is cheap and easy before you pour, but essentially impossible to retrofit. Many home pours seem to skip reinforcement at all, which is penny wise and pound foolish. At least throw some 6x6 mesh in there, and bent #4 bars at the corners, tied to the mesh.


Should I leave the drain open on my compressor for storage?

Leave the valve closed during storage to prevent moisture, dust, and insects from entering the tank (as @Scivitri wisely mentions in his comment).

Even though any additional moisture could be drained form the tank later, it's more difficult to get the dust and insects out. And they're what's likely to clog up any attachments. They'd also potentially clog the drain valve itself and essentially cause a slow leak until they were removed.


How can I stop the bass from shaking my house?

Unfortunately, there aren't easy and/or cheap ways to weigh down the paneling or ceiling.

I'm going to suspect that a healthy majority of the rattle is not from the sound vibrations in the air, but from the physical motion/vibration transferring from the woofer through the shelf, to the  floor, wall, and ceiling. Isolating the woofers on something like memory foam or similar to isolate to vibrations may somewhat lessen the transfer.

Unfortunately, all loud sound systems deal with this to some extent. If isolating the woofers is not enough, then reducing the hard surface areas would be the next step. Hanging framed art, tapestries, etc on the walls all helps to dampen the transfer of sound waves to the walls.


Ryobi circular saw motor runs, blade doesn’t

Replacementparts.com show s no gearbox for this saw so it appears you have a snapped shaft. The armature goes for about $59 and you could get a new saw for that amount so it's not worth fixing. Numerous other parts are no longer available so don't waste your money. Just for fun, take it apart and see what happened. If you're in the USA, you have time on your hands.


It sounds like the wood has already rotted or otherwise deteriorated beyond repair. If it is just a few pieces then you would need to replace those, but if the entire chair is rotted then it's likely destined for the scrap pile.

Generally speaking you need to finish the wood in order for it to hold up against the elements. Paint, shellac and varnish are some of the methods you could use.


How can I repair this small hole in my basement floor?

Your best bet is Hydraulic cement. There should be directions on the tin, but it boils down to clean the hole and fill it up. I'm partial to nitrile (or latex) gloves and stuffing it in by hand for something that size. The gloves because some people have skin reactions to cement; also you can throw the gloves away rather than rinsing cement down your drain.

If you do use your fingers to pack it in you'll still want a tool to flatten off the patch. Either a paint stirrer dragged sideways or putty knife should do nicely. It's not exactly the job you need a trowel for.

It sounds like you're right about the pressure, the water should migrate to the drain. If that hole was relieving enough pressure to buckle the floor I'd expect it to be gushing like you'd struck oil.


Installing Tankless Hot Water System - Amp Questions & Using AWG 6 Wire with Current Tank

Being a small home and only seeing 2 circuits (240v baseboard 20 amp heaters) you would be pushing the service, but it might work, you would be removing the double pole 20  in 1-3 and installing the 60 amp or going from 5kw to the new 13kw or April 8 kw higher draw or approx +33 amps while in use compared to the old one. We don’t actually add the breakers to figure out the total load on the service, where I could see a problem in the winter when you need full power on the water heater with the 2 base board circuits running the actual draw there could be right around 80 amps having the dryer or oven going along with some lights and you may trip the main. So it is very close. I would want to monitor the power usage with the above turned on and see what the actual draw is before saying yes or no.


How to drill a hole in brick with precision?

The most important part is to start off in the correct location. Once you have started the hole it's relatively easy to keep straight if you take it slowly and have a steady hand.

If your drill has a variable speed - either via a selector switch or by varying the pressure on the trigger - use the lowest speed possible to start the hole. A drill that uses trigger pressure is best as you can start with the drill bit on the mark and then gradually increase the speed. This prevents the bit skidding on the surface.

Once you have the first few millimetres drilled bring the drill up to full speed. You will need to push but don't use your full weight on the drill.

You might find it useful to have someone else watch so they can tell you if you aren't holding the drill perpendicular to the wall.

If you don't have an assistant you can do various things to help you keep the drill level.

Attach a spirit level bubble to your drill at 90 deg to each other. The success of something like this will depend on where you fix the bubble - it has to be parallel to the drill bit and somewhere you can see while drilling.
Use something like this (currently not available for sale) attachement that projects a series of concentric rings on the surface you're drilling into. I've not used anything like this myself, but it looks like it might work.
Buy a drill with built in levels - either bubble levels or electronic.


Do I need a vent on this emergency drain?

If it's really an "emergency" drain - one that you will never use in normal circumstances - then it shouldn't be connected to the rest of your plumbing at all.  It should just have a straight pipe leading into a basement sump pump, outside the house, or even into a crawl space (just put some screen over the open end to keep critters out).  The reason for this is that if you connect it to your normal plumbing, you will need a trap.  The trap stays partially filled with water to keep the smell of the sewer from entering your house. Over time, the water in the trap will evaporate, letting the sewer smell enter your room.  In a drain that gets regular use, this is not a problem, since you refill the trap every time you use the drain.  I'm guessing your "emergency" floor drain is only there to get rid of water if the washing machine malfunctions and overflows.  In that very rare scenario it's not a big deal to just let the water run into your crawlspace or yard, although directing it to a sump pump (and from the sump pump into your yard) is probably the best option since it keeps the open end of the pipe inside your basement if you have one.


Catalytic Carbon or Birm for iron removal

I ended up getting something with Iron Rival Light media.
After researching a bit, and finding something that I don't remember the name, but it was created in Germany and said to work better than Filox, Birm or Carbon; but it led me to a company selling a filter with this media and it has this write-up:

  Iron Rival Light is a revolutionary new light weight
  iron treatment media that is best described as a cross between Birm
  and Filox. As such, it shares the best characteristics of both media.
  Being a coated media and light weight, Iron Rival light is easier to
  backwash - it requires less flow rate to backwash and it does not need
  to be done as often as Filox. Yet, the coating and volume of active
  ingredient (10% manganese dioxide) is much greater than that of Birm,
  resulting in longer media life and increased performance. Iron Rival
  Light has a recommended pH level of 6.0 to 9.0 and effectively
  removes, iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide.

After getting it setup, the water is coming out completely clean!


What are the pros and cons of paint vs epoxy for concrete floors?

This completely depends on your expectations.  I paint my room every 5-6 years with the basic grey basement paint.  It scratches, you mop with hot water or bleach, it peels.  Not too bad but after a few years it doesn't look perfect, but certainly better than the dirty, rusty concrete that was there before it.

And I have a full squat rack and 800 pounds of weights.  So moving that stuff might scuff or scratch the paint too.

Choices:

Epoxy garage floor kits (2 parts).  The good... they look nice and feel nice.  The bad... they are made to go on smooth concrete.  Basement floors are a bit rough, meaning harder to clean and get a solid bond.  I have had these peel just like paint.
latex paint - cheap, easy, not messy at all, but I have mentioned before it will peel for sure.
drylok type paint (concrete moisture paint) - same as latex, handles water better on cleanups but bleach/cleaners not so much.
oil based paints - have had great results with these in rentals.  People will say they aren't environmentally friendly... but it works.  Throw down oil based paint on a basement floor it will far outlast any other type of paint including epoxy.  It is just an absolute mess to put down and does not clean up off of things so you really have to do a clear out.
concrete stain - will last forever, might require a lot of prep so the stain takes, and unless you do a lot of grinding and smoothing floor won't be that much nicer to walk on.  Also very costly to do right.
"rubber" coating.  Friend just bought the roll on rubber to redo a front porch.  Comes with the rubber plus scrappy top coat - it is basically what you see being used in playgrounds.  He had a ton left over so did the laundry room in the basement.  Looked great, pretty costly, like walking on a fluffy sponge... Time will tell on the clean up and how it works.  Not sure I would ever suggest this but an option.
And if you are finishing it and want something dynamic, might I suggest fully vinyl click lock flooring.  Sold at HD, Menards and tons of places online for 2.5+ a sq/ft.  These things can sit in water, be washed top to bottom and you can cut them after/as you put up walls.  Or just pull them apart and reuse.  You could lay down a 1000 sq/ft basement in couple hours with 3-4 people and it bends so don't have to level everything... just an option.


Either idea will work. If you lay the stuff on top of the attic insulation, anyone (yourself included) who wants to add more insulation in the future can just flow in cellulose or loose fiberglass on top of it, easy least.


Suggestion to "Networkify" a dumb USB Security Camera

As I understand there is an USB option on the camera. The easiest solution I can think of is connecting it on a raspberry pi which you can connect to you wireless network and retrieve the data daily.

You can check out this totorial https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-webcam-server/ where they are doing the stuff you want to achieve.


How can I repair this sagging gate door without replacing it completely?

I would purchase a kit that has a steel wire and turnbuckle setup attach to the hinge side top left and the bottom right, some of the kits have turnbuckle the wire rope clamps and brackets to screw into the frame work for under 20$. These kits will allow you to tension the gate and remove the sag. You will need to adjust the latch but without the sag the gate would swing normally. Link not working right but Google ace gate anti sag kit 13.99$


Overthinking basement flooding prevention?

Providing proper drainage outside combined with sealing is my preferred method. I have had walls that may have been close to what you have I dug down installed drains and backfilled with rock (no dirt) that home went from rivers on the floors to dry walls. If possible to divert the water before it enters it takes less energy to have a comfortable basement in the winter (sump not having to pump all the water out of the house that came in to me that made sense it worked quite well so over thinking it? No I don’t think so but this could be viewed as an opinion question.


Wire that was stripped inline and loops over the side screw

I don't know of any code violation that says you can't do it, just so long as you can make a good mechanical and electrical connection. I have seen this before and it is usually done to save room in the boxes. I haven't seen it in newer installations since the newer codes want at least 6" tail for all devices and 2 wires stretched out to 6" is counterproductive.


14/3 Wire + Double Pole Breaker, Two 120v Circuits?

Well it IS a MWBC. It just happens to be one that serves one outlet on the one side, and (presumably you've checked that the other outlets do actually turn off when the breaker does) the remainder of the outlets and the lights from the other half. It still economizes the wire from the panel to the room (one 14/3 rather than 2 14/2's.)

The older 12Ga wire presumably just means that the older outlet wiring that was not changed out was done with 12/2, and might have been on a 20A circuit at that time. Since it's more than large enough for 15A, that's perfectly safe in the current arrangement. Likely the two runs of wire are in, and on to the next device in the chain.

Personally, I find the combining of outlets and lights to be a thing I object to (since I don't like getting left in the dark, and fixed lights almost never trip a circuit breaker, while outlets get whatever plugged into them until they do) but electrical codes in both of our countries don't care about that.


The short answer is that if you're going to randomly add insulation to a wall, adding unfaced insulation is the best answer without more information. The kraft paper facing on insulation works as a vapor barrier and you usually want to avoid trapping moisture in a wall cavity.

If this is in unconditioned space, then definitely use unfaced.
If this is in conditioned space, then post a picture of the wall (or describe the wall assembly) and tell us where you live and we can give you more specific recommendations.


Can I fill a drywall hole with something and reuse the hole?

You haven't said how big the hole is or what it's for, but I think I understand your question, how a little filler might not be as strong as untouched drywall. It depends on what it's filled with, but regular drywall filler probably won't be as strong. If you're just hanging a small picture I'm sure filler would be perfect.

If you're hanging something very heavy and you want to make sure it's a strong patch, and if you don't mind a hole at least an inch or two and a little patching & filler & paint you could put a piece of wood behind it and screw it into the "good" drywall on either side:

Then patch it with the larger drywall piece you cut out (if you cut it out  carefully).

Now your "new" drilled hole will be just as strong as the wood behind it is held, probably 4x a single screw in drywall.


Could I use a UPS to power my humidifier on an underrated breaker with a little trickery

No.

You definitely want to put the humidifier on its own circuit, or a circuit that is not shared with two powder/bath rooms. You could look for a convenience receptacle in the basement and determine if it's on the same circuit. If not, you can probably come out of that for the humidifier. If the humidifier pulls it's full 7A rating when it starts, you probably want to avoid having it share a lighting circuit, as the lights could dim when it turns on. That can cause premature wear on ballasts and greatly reduce the life of any incandescent lamps you might have in use. Take care to know exactly what else is on any circuit you find in the neighborhood.

NEC requires wiring devices, such as the relays you're talking about to be listed and approved. Assembling something to cut the power to the UPS when the humidifier kicks in using all listed and approved parts does not constitute a listed and approved device. Your approach, while very creative gets a little too far into the "Rube Goldberg" brand of tinkering.

My advice is, have an electrician install a single use receptacle for the humidifier on its own 15A circuit, even if that's slightly overkill. If your panel will not accommodate this, and tandem breakers aren't a possibility, then consider increasing the size of your panel and / or service.

Two bathrooms on a single 15A circuit is problematic enough, it sounds like you need to bite the bullet and get a few additional circuits where they're needed.


How can I cut 4x4 posts that are already mounted?

It's common practice to set posts and trim them to height later. It's more difficult than you might think to set a post to a perfect height, and you don't always have the angles in advance..
Our strategy was to strike a line all the way around using a carpenter's square, then cut from all sides with a standard circular saw (four sides for level cuts, two for angles, or all four if you set the table angle). Be careful to hit the marks accurately. This leaves you with about a 3/4" square or strip in the center that you'd cut with a hand saw or reciprocating saw.
If you do this carefully there's not much left to clean up. If you miss a bit you'll have some sanding to do.


I don't what could be wrong, what do you think?

I think it is probably incompatible with some other device on that circuit, such as a dimmer, a switch-locator or something else.

If this is the case it may be best to take/send the bulb back to the retailer and change it for a dimmer-compatible LED bulb.

It might be that your E27 to E14 adapter only makes proper contact when gravity is pushing the bulb into the adapter (standing upright) instead of pulling out away (hanging down)

If this is the case, I'd replace the E27 bulb with one that has an E14 fitting to match your ceiling fittings. Or change the ceiling fitting to one that takes E27 bulbs.


How to replace vent tee under kitchen sink

Try replacing the tee with a sanitary tee. Use couplers to create threaded ends on the tee.


Do can lights have to be wired in order?

You can wire them in any sequence.  Do it in whatever way is the most convenient.  The electricity doesn't care, and doesn't know the physical location of the fixtures.

Household wiring is parallel, so there isn't really a sequence.  Each fixture just needs to be fed power by some path from the breaker box.  When you route the wire from fixture to fixture, the power isn't really going through one fixture to get to the next.  Rather the wiring provides a shared electrical path from the breaker, and each fixture taps its own power from it. [1]

[1] Note: This applies to basic wiring, such as standard light fixtures and outlets, as asked about in the question.  There are other situations that are a little more complicated.  For example, in wiring GFCI outlets, sequence is important.  And there are other special cases, such as Sean Boddy mentions in a comment.


Damaged wire while drilling wall caused power to go out. How to fix it properly?

So it sounds like the AFCI breaker did its job and saved you from a potentially nasty jolt. The AFCI detects the arc (i.e. your metal drill bit contacting the live wire) and cuts the power.

If the wire wasn't severed, you can probably get away with just wrapping the wire in electrical tape and then wrapping the whole scar. If the wires were severed, you can use an inline splice to reattach them without a box.


Excessive Grease in Above Stove Microwave

Cleaning the traps often is another way of dealing with this problem.  If you are going to cook with a lot of grease or oil this will happen.

If you can remove the traps easily then soak them in Dawn dishwashing soap (and hot water) or 409 Cleaner.  I have used both and they work.  Let the traps soak in either one for awhile to eat away the built up grease, then rinse with hot water and let air dry.

Or just change cooking habits.  Less Oil/Grease and go to steaming.
Good luck.


How can I remove a MEPLA cabinet door hinge that has no exposed screws?

Remove the two screws on the cabinet side, press down the tiny tab pictured at top right above, then twist the hinge to left (CCW) to unlock the hinge from the door.  There should be a plastic plate underneath held by 4 screws.


How do I finish a pine wood floor so that it can be waxed?

A trip to the hire shop is in order. One floor sander and an edge sander. A selection of medium and fine grit belts-the hire shop will probably credit you for unused materials. Get all the windows open and wipe the floor over with isopropyl alcohol to remove as much old wax as possible, this will save a lot of clogging of the sanding medium. First sand across the grain, do all the edges with medium then fine grit, finally fine grit along the grain. Dampen the whole floor with water, leave for a leisurely lunch, return, fine sand the edges, then along the grain with the floor sander. Clean up really well, ensure you vacuum clean all the joints and cracks. Apply a coat of sanding sealer and leave overnight. In the morning use a hand sanding pad and very fine grit and remove all the 'nibs'...you will have some! Apply a second fine coat of sanding sealer. Leave overnight or better still a couple of days. Apply the first floor wax layer with a 'scotchbrite' pad or similar (this will de-nib the floor as well) in a very thin coat-not forcing wax into the joins. Buff,leave a couple of days, repeat at least three times. Note that for the kitchen a better finish will be to apply four or five coats of tung oil over a couple of weeks which will not show water spots as readily as wax, as always, when applying oil or wax a little many times gives the best finish.


Help with creating a DIY low voltage garden pathway light?

Timer controlled low voltage with LED lamps is the way to go, one reason is that the inevitable failure of "line voltage" temporary extension cords could lead to shock injury.

I agree that the consumer grade "big-box" stuff is junk and not likely to last more than 2 years without constant attention. What you need is heavy duty professional grade equipment, check with your local landscape supply house. I like this type because they are heavy duty and manufactured in my area of the good ol USA.


How safe is it to keep and use a mildly corroded hot water valve?

There is a decent chance that the valve will begin to leak where the stem passes through the packing nut/gland. Not uncommon at all and you will need a bucket to contain the water until you can get the supply shut down upstream. Sometimes it sprays everywhere until you can wrap a rag around it. Sometimes the leak will stop when you either open fully and "back-seat" the valve, or when fully closed.
You already know the valve won't give a tight shut off, why not change it out right now while you are in there working. Install a high-quality 1/4 turn valve.


By "meter test", I assume you mean a voltage reading from side to base contacts. By "rewired" I assume replaced?

Heat will expand the socket base. Pull the base tabs down to create a tighter contact. Using sandpaper, scuff the bulb ends that meet the contact. Bad connections create higher amperage draw, which yields more heat, thus burn-out.

Again, I'm assuming that all wires are connected internally and are very secure with proper wire nuts.  Good luck.


Can I use 14/3 wire and a 20 amp double pole breaker for a 240 volt baseboard heater?

Only if the heater draws less than 12 amps would 14 AWG be adequate.  And that would require a 15 amp breaker, not 20, to properly protect 14 gauge wire.

Space heating devices require wiring to be 80% derated which is assumed by the electrical code to be "on" 100% of the time.

A heater rated up to 24 amps requires 10 AWG and a 30 amp breaker.

A heater rated up to 16 amps needs at least 12 AWG and a 20 amp breaker

A heater up to 12 amps needs at least 14 AWG and a 15 amp breaker.

The heater will have volts, amps, and watts on its "ratings plate".


Can someone inform me on how to achieve this type of patina on a furniture project I am working on

Looks like an "ebonized" piece. That can be as simple as applying a black pigment or dye stain, or you can get fancy with some woods and do an iron-and-tannic-acid reaction to darken them a bit less unnaturally.

The metal pieces can be bought with dark anodizing or other treatment, painted, or you could try just hitting them with a black marker.

(I'd refer you go the woodworking area, but since this piece appears to be metal and plywood there isn't a lot of woodworking in it. That'd be the best place to learn more about staining and dying wood, though.)


Why does my sink disposal come loose from the locking ring?

This is easier if you have two people but if not, you need to position the disposal in place and then work the locking ring into place making sure all three "ramps" are engaged and turn it clockwise to tighten. The last step is to take the angled allen wrench and put it into one of the round sleeves on the collar and push hard to lock the ring in place. You might have to move the wrench around the ring using all the sleeves to balance the locking force.


Electrical sheathing removal for pool light?

ABSOLUTELY NOT!

You should not be using cable or cord for ANY wiring to and for a pool light, with the exception of wiring that is within a building or structure. An insulated green ground is mandatory. The only exception to this is the cord that comes factory attached to a wet-niche type underwater light (luminaire).

PLEASE read up on the codes involved with pool wiring, it is NOT a place you want to mess around or cut corners!

  680.23 Underwater Luminaires

  This section covers all luminaires installed below the normal water level >of the pool.

  (F) Branch-Circuit Wiring.

  (1) Wiring Methods.

  Branch-circuit wiring on the supply side of enclosures and junction
  boxes connected to conduits run to wet-niche and no-niche luminaires,
  and the field wiring compartments of dry-niche luminaires, shall be
  installed using rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit,
  liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit, rigid polyvinyl chloride
  conduit, or reinforced thermosetting resin conduit. Where installed on
  buildings, electrical metallic tubing shall be permitted, and where
  installed within buildings, electrical nonmetallic tubing, Type MC
  cable, electrical metallic tubing, or Type AC cable shall be
  permitted. In all cases, an insulated equipment grounding conductor
  sized in accordance with Table 250.122 but not less than 12 AWG shall
  be required.

  Exception: Where connecting to transformers for pool lights, liquidtight flexible metal conduit shall be permitted. The length
  shall not exceed 1.8 m (6 ft) for any one length or exceed 3.0 m (10
  ft) in total length used.

  (2) Equipment Grounding.

  Other than listed low-voltage luminaires not requiring grounding, all
  through-wall lighting assemblies, wet-niche, dry-niche, or no-niche
  luminaires shall be connected to an insulated copper equipment
  grounding conductor installed with the circuit conductors. The
  equipment grounding conductor shall be installed without joint or
  splice except as permitted in (F)(2)(a) and (F)(2)(b). The equipment
  grounding conductor shall be sized in accordance with Table 250.122
  but shall not be smaller than 12 AWG.

  Exception: An equipment grounding conductor between the wiring chamber of the secondary winding of a transformer and a junction box
  shall be sized in accordance with the overcurrent device in this
  circuit.

  (a)   If more than one underwater luminaire is supplied by the same
  branch circuit, the equipment grounding conductor, installed between
  the junction boxes, transformer enclosures, or other enclosures in the
  supply circuit to wet-niche luminaires, or between the field-wiring
  compartments of dry-niche luminaires, shall be permitted to be
  terminated on grounding terminals.

  (b)   If the underwater luminaire is supplied from a transformer,
  ground-fault circuit interrupter, clock-operated switch, or a manual
  snap switch that is located between the panelboard and a junction box
  connected to the conduit that extends directly to the underwater
  luminaire, the equipment grounding conductor shall be permitted to
  terminate on grounding terminals on the transformer, ground-fault
  circuit interrupter, clock-operated switch enclosure, or an outlet box
  used to enclose a snap switch.


Should an interior non-load bearing wall stack up to a joist or stud?

It shouldn't make any difference.  If it isn't any extra work I'd position the studs directly below the ceiling joists.  This will make everything just a little stiffer and more solid.


What type of mortar should be used for small mortar repair on a 100 year old house?

With a facing I would clean all the loose out and mix some but I have the lime and bags of clean sand and pick up some fresh cement. Since you are new to this I would suggest a pre mixed repointing mix. It is a little more expensive than mixing it up your self. Pre mixed is basically Portland cement, clean fine sand, hydrated lime, and water, I will use an add mix it helps to seal but I don’t know if it is necessary, I started using addmix after learning how to tile.
The reason I asked about foundations is then a stronger type (n or s ) would be needed.
For exterior above grade any grade n, s or m will be fine. But purchasing a premix just go to a big box store and find the pre- mixed repointing bag. Add water according to the instructions better to start with not enough water and work up. There are acrylic? Premixed that you put on and let dry but I have not used these some one else may have advice on them.


How bad is using a 200 amp breaker box on a mobile home that only has 100 amp underground wire?

Service lateral

The service lateral (underground version of the service drop) before the meter is the power company's responsibility.   They have a smart meter on it.  They know what is installed in the ground (it could be #4Al for all we know) and they know when you draw on it hard enough to cause thermal problems or voltage drop.  So go ahead and install your Bitcoin miners and horticulture lights if you're in a state that's into that... The power company will let you know if you need a service lateral upgrade.

Service laterals are not subject to NEC.  The power company has a different codebook.

Your responsiblity is to have overcurrent protection (breaker) that is appropriate to the power the power company has promised to provide you (provisioned you) i.e 100A.  The service lateral may be wholly inadequate to the task if you really drew all that; but it's their right to undersize the cable on the bet that you won't, and their job to bird-dog that.

A downline (sub) panel can always have a bigger breaker

Since you have a 100A main breaker at the meter, it's perfectly fine to use a larger 200A panel downstream of it.  There is nothing that requires the subpanel's "main breaker" agree with the breaker that is actually feeding it.

if the subpanel's "main" is bigger than the supply breaker, it is merely a shutoff switch.  Given how panels are priced, it is often the cheapest way to get a shutoff switch if one is required (e.g. In an outbuilding).
If the subpanel's "main" is smaller than the supply breaker, then each has different jobs.  The supply breaker protects the wire/Cable to the subpanel.  The subpanel "main" protects the subpanel itself.

In this case, since the "sub" panel is in fact the domicile's main panel, using a 200-225A panel is the only sane choice.  100A panels are quite small panels, typically not much larger than 20-space.  You need as a "desperation minimum" 30 spaces in a main panel, and 40 spaces or more is a better choice. That is especially so in an all-electric home, where otherwise-gas appliances are gobbling up breaker spaces 2-4 at a time.

The traditional desperation move when you run out of spaces is "double-stuff" breakers, but that is becoming less viable as more and more circuits require AFCI or GFCI.  Those breakers are not available in double-stuff.  Given the price difference you are far better off just buying a 42-space or two 30’s, rather than painting yourself into a corner and having to spend much more to get out of it.


Properly flashing ledger board for pergola or overhanging patio roof

How should I properly flash this?

  what is the correct way to attach an angled joist to the ledger board?

p.s. I think in your application it would be referred to as a rafter as opposed to a joist.


How do I remove the sink drain in this situation?

Here's a diagram of the drain:

It looks to me like you've unscrewed the nut, but not the flange (which is a separate piece that screws to the inside of the tailpiece, while the nut screws to the outside of the tailpiece).

If things are not loosening easily, you can try some penetrating oil or WD-40 and letting it sit for a while, it may help if there is any rust or corrosion on the threads. The place this would cause a problem if anywhere would be on the outside at the top of the tailpipe.


You didn't say where you live, but the National Electrical Code applies to most areas of the USA. Check your state and local codes for any modification to this. The NEC is clear on this subject.
If the re-bar is not connected by tie wires to the rest of the re-bar and is less than 20 feet long you will need another grounding electrode. It also needs to be in the concrete footing or slab that is in direct contact with the earth, it cannot be separated from the earth by a vapor barrier (plastic) or insulation. Check the informational note.
From the National Electrical Code 250.52(A)

(3) Concrete-Encased Electrode. A concrete-encased electrode shall consist of at least 6.0 m (20 ft) of either (1) or (2):
(1) One or more bare or zinc galvanized or other electrically conductive coated steel reinforcing bars or rods of not less than 13 mm (1⁄2 in.) in diameter, installed in one continuous 6.0 m (20 ft) length, or if in multiple pieces connected together by the usual steel tie wires, exothermic welding, welding, or other effective means to create a 6.0 m (20 ft) or greater length; or
(2) Bare copper conductor not smaller than 4 AWG
Metallic components shall be encased by at least 50 mm (2 in.) of concrete and shall be located horizontally within that portion of a concrete foundation or footing that is in direct contact with the earth or within vertical foundations or structural components or members that are in direct contact with the earth. If multiple concrete-encased electrodes are present at a building or structure, it shall be permissible to bond only one into the grounding electrode system.
Informational Note: Concrete installed with insulation, vapor barriers, films or similar items separating the concrete from the earth is not considered to be in “direct contact” with the earth.

Good luck!


Is this true about circuit breakers being out of phase in a house?

Another answer explains the split phase normally used in residential electrical service.  This picture

from answer to 46960 explains how breakers basically do alternate as you say, which leg of the service they draw from.

Note that there are breakers that attach two circuits in a single space, etc., so it's a little more complicated, but if you keep in mind what the bus looks like underneath, you'll understand what's going on.


I don't think that's a very good idea. First of all, the wood is already sealed, so the paint isn't going to adhere very well. Second, you're going to waste a lot of money by purchasing nice grainy oak baseboard, since you're paying for the color and grain that are going to be covered up by paint. You can save a dollar per linear foot or more by going with some finger-jointed pine or MDF pre-primed white baseboard that you then finish off with a coat of paint.


What's the best place to get a single steel I-beam?

Yellow pages (or google, or...) and "Structural steel" (or structural steel suppliers, fabricators, erectors, etc.) Many may not really want to work with you (there's not really any classification of "suppliers of one beam for a house project" so some of the companies listed may ONLY play in the "build a skyscraper" market) but that's who you need for structural steel, and someone will supply residential one-offs, - ask for a recommendation if the company you call first can't help you directly.

Hiring the erection as well as fabrication and delivery is highly recommended. They know that they are doing and they have the right tools and equipment to do so safely. It's all too easy to kill yourself or your helpers when trying to creatively hoist heavy metal into place without experience and tooling for the job.


How to wire a 3-way dimmer switch in box with three cables

What you have there are cables, not conduits.

A 3-way switch has 2 travelers that must necessaily be in the same conduit or cable.   On your setup, that can only describe the white and red from the upper cable/conduit.

3-way switches have 1 more terminal (other than ground), which is called common. Lo and behold, there is one loose wire left in your panel.

Make sure you are using the right size of wire nut.  The right one for these connections is orange or yellow.  Red is too big.

--

Travelers are very confusing.  Maddening, in fact, because they are typically wired using common cables, and those come in stock colors (black white and red).  As such, in standard cables, color does not correspond to purpose. This means you have (for instance) white wires in the box that are neutral, and other white wires in the box which are travelers.  In a comment, you ask a very simple question, expecting a simple answer and there isn't one.  So we're gonna make it simple.

Those two wires in the same conduit/cable are both travelers.  We are going to get yellow tape and re-mark them with yellow tape.  This is my standard color for travelers, since it matches the brass screw on common 3-way switches.

Since the two red wires on the switch also are travelers, we remark them also with yellow tape.

When I run traveler wires in actual conduit, where I get choice of wire color, I use 2 yellows for travelers. There is no need to distinguish them from each other.


Is it safe to use a former furnace flue to vent my dryer through the roof?

I have a funny feeling that local codes might preclude it. The problem is that lint will quickly clog the vent since once any lint collects on the walls, it will slow down airflow enough that lint will accumulate at the bottom of the vent. This can cause a fire.


What is this soft plastic like material that has been added to the window, and how best to remove it?

Likely "removable caulk", (perhaps "temporary caulk" - been a few years since I put some on leaky windows for the winter) in which case pulling it once you get an edge lifted up should be effective at removing it, though perhaps complicated by it being a sloppy job...

Otherwise, just (clear?) caulk, and it might be harder to remove. Using a knife will risk scratching things up - a plastic scraping tool might be a better choice, depending on the window material. Then again, you may just have to plan on repainting.


What's the best way to install permanent high/low gauges in a compressor based HVAC system rfc134a?

You would not want to install a gauge set with flex lines on your system.
Why would I say this ? They will leak over time.  The larger line with the service port is the suction line. I have a “low pressure” gauge with a flair fitting that is only ~1” long for checking system pressures.  I attach the gauge and open the valve verify operational range and close the valve.
Why would I not leave a gauge on that port? The ports when open have a higher chance of leaking not only at the flair fitting but at the valve. Notice the threads on the valves over the hex valve fitting? Those need to be capped that location is the #1 location I find leaks I use a thread sealant and always close those off.
As far as the size there are 2 normal sizes 1/4 flair and 5/16 flair  these fittings are not standard flair fittings as they have a valve stem depressor that opens the Schrader valve. If installing gauges on systems was a good idea mfg’s would have this as an option (they used to install sight glasses) but since sight glasses and gauges tend to be a leakage point they are not an option (or I am not aware of a residential system with gauges as an option). I would use caution in even checking the low pressure of your water heater if similar to mine it only uses 3/4lb of r134 each time the system is opened a small amount of the charge is lost this is why I have the gauges with 1” connections. Connecting a standard line set to a small system like this several times can loose enough of a charge to cause problems due to low charge.
Last the EPA can levy fines for a non certified person for opening a system would they for checking your system?  I don’t know of that happening but you could damage your system or introduce leaks by moving forward.


I'm sure the water is from "ground water". That is to say, it's from the water table being pushed up from the adjacent hillside. During the wet season, hillsides get saturated and will cause lower level water tables to rise.

An easy fix is to add a "french drain" between your patio and the hillside. Just dig a trench about 8" to 12" below the bottom of the patio slab. Install a 3" perforated pipe on about 3" of gravel (drain rock, not crushed rock, because you want water to flow through the rock and enter the perf pipe.) Then fill up the trench with more rock. (If you want it to last longer, you could line the trench...bottom, sides and top...with filter fabric.) Make sure you "daylight" the end of the perf pipe. That is to say, extend the pipe to a location that will allow the water to run out. Make sure the pipe is level or slopes down to the exit slightly.

The reason you are experiencing this now is because something has changed. Somebody uphill from you has changed a waterway or diverted some water towards you...


How can I Run a 230V 50hz tool on 100V 60hz

Most motors will run on 50 & 60 Hz so you need a step up transformer to run a 230v tool on 100.
Here is step up/down. You will need one large enough to handle the wattage of your drilling machine. When I searched step up transformer there were some as high as 2000W. These get more expensive as the wattage increases. If you go with a step up transformer make sure to get a larger one than you need by at least 10% and 20-30% if you will be using it for long periods of time as they get hot when over loaded.


It could burn down your house. That shouldn't be a problem for good wiring, so I'd say you have a wiring problem to the outlet.  The momentary demand of the motor starting is making voltage drop enough to bother the TV. The voltage drop is making heat somewhere you don't want it.

Worst case, it's at the location of a wiring fault. There won't be enough heat for you to feel it on the outside of the wall, but potentially enough to kindle a fire if it's near anything flammable like dust bunnies.

Most likely it's one of the outlets.  Not necessarily this outlet, it could be another outlet upstream - outlets are daisy-chained. If you turn off the breaker to that outlet, check what other outlets have also gone out.  That will show you the "daisy chain" that is involved.  (it goes without saying to shutdown your PCs before you start shutting off breakers.)

Can you borrow a socket checker and a Kill-a-Watt and look for anything funny electrically?  Once you've identified the daisy-chain of outlets, a significantly different voltage from one outlet to the next (while the freezer is running) would mean you're close to the problem.

Outlets are $4 for a good one (58 cents for a cheapie) and it's a reasonably easy DIY project if you school up and are careful.  Food for thought.


Should I have my bath vanity drain augered to eliminate odor and dampness?

I agree with @isherwood+  The P trap holds some water to prevent sewer gasses from entering the home (all drains have them some times called a U bend). After rinsing your mouth, run the water for a bit to flush the mouthwash down the drain and the smell will be gone.


Why am I getting cold water at faucets near the end of a circulation loop?

I know this is a year later, but I finally got around to getting this addressed. I decided to service my water heater - drain the tank, replace the anode rod, and replace the check valve. Sure enough, the inside of the valve was gummed up, with the little disc stuck in the open position. This most likely explains why our tub could get "warm" water instead of "hot" water after a few minutes.


Furnace failing intermittently, is it a faulty furnace pressure switch?

Nest is well known to cause short cycling.
Go back to your old thermostat.


Trouble connecting air gap to disposal without tube kinking

Dishwasher drain line is usually cheap corrugated plastic (neither heavy nor all that thick), which is mostly immune to kinking. Some models come with a large 'U' shaped bracket to help achieve this curve.

Some come with an integral 90, so I don't see why you can't use one if you have to.

I'm pretty sure if it's black and non-corrugated, you bought the wrong stuff. That sounds like an extension you might use if it's extremely far from the drain pipe. Use what came with the dishwasher to make the air-gap,  and attach that line to the drain any which way you can.


What problems will I face with this all glass stairwell?

I live in a mild climate and we designed a house for a client with a large greenhouse on it facing south.

We installed thermostatically controlled exhaust vents and the space still stayed extremely hot. The client was nice and she found it perfect for growing oranges, tomatoes, etc. year round.

I’d be concerned about extreme heat build up and put your architect on notice that it must be comfortable without running AC constantly.

Also, some window glazing seals are only rated to certain temperatures. If it gets too hot, the seals could fail.

Also, you don’t want metal handrails (or anything you could touch) because the metal could overheat and be too hot to use...especially with direct sun hitting the handrail.


Pool pump shaft seal leak...or something else?

I replaced the motor, and that seems to have fixed the leak.

I suspect that during my first attempt to replace the shaft seal, I damaged something in the motor while struggling to remove the impeller.  After that, the shaft was probably slightly off center, such that the two sides of the seal were not properly aligned.

It's possible that just replacing the bearings might have fixed the problem too, but I didn't feel confident that I could do that successfully.  And the typical cost to pay someone else for that is about the same as a new motor anyway.


Option 1: As cutrightjm mentioned you could use a cheaper cement below the self-leveling cement. This might be the slimmest option, but I personally won't trust multiple thin layers of concrete not to crack and breakup due to their differences in thermal expansion. If you choose this route, do your homework on the expansion properties vs your existing foundation.

Option 2:  If you are willing to add 3-4" of cement to the highest point of your floor, you could just repour right over the top of your existing floor and then refinish it so it's level. This would likely be the easiest job to contract out.

Option 3: The easiest method would be to use a moisture locking floating subfloor such as DRIcore.

Such a subfloor can be shimmed to be level, and DRIcore even sells a leveling kit.

Option 4A: The most inexpensive route would be to attach GC (ground contact) treated strapping to the floor to act as joists and install a plywood subfloor over the top of it. You can shim the joists with composite shims, or cut the joists to slope.  For this you'd likely want your strapping to be at least 3/4 thick at the high point of your floor so you have something to screw into.

Option 4B:  Similarly, if you are worried about moisture problems and want to reduce the floor height, you could use cement board instead of plywood. Cement board could be attached directly or shimmed to your floor at the high points. After it's screwed down you could level out any small imperfections between panels with some  that you could level out any small imperfections with thin-set.


That is a Square D QO series breaker. The one in question is an AFCI, or arc-fault breaker.

The early incarnations of QO AFCIs had some issues. There were blue, green, purple and I believe another color "test" buttons. How old is this breaker?
An AFCI can trip due to electrical "noise" on the line, motor brushes like in vacuums, etc, any kind of arcing or sparking in the circuit, frayed cords, and more.

Here is a good troubleshooting guide for AFCI breakers right from Square D:
http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Miniature%20Circuit%20Breakers/Arc%20Fault%20Circuit%20Interrupters-AFCI/0760DB0204.pdf

Also, more from Square D: http://www.schneider-electric.us/en/faqs/FA125415/

Here is another very good answer to the same question: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/74242/19875


Portable Air Conditioner Compressor Never Cycles On & Off - Is this normal?

There is no problem with the unit running continuously without a break. The most wear occurs when the compressor starts up from being off. A unit that is sized to run continuously is actually more efficient than one that cycles on and off.

We have a slightly undersized Carrier central a/c unit (12 SEER) which is 26 years old, but still works as well as could be expected for one that age. The blower fan motor is original and the compressor is original. The original fan in the condensing unit failed and was replaced 2 years ago. On very hot summer days (>100 F) it turns on at say 11:00 am and runs continuously until 5 pm.


Can I reduce the width of a board half an inch by sanding?

It is not feasible to sand down a wooden member by a whole half of an inch.

If something is too long then cut off the additional half inch using a saw.
If something is too thick (wide) by the half inch then rip saw off that extra thickness or use a planer to remove it.
If you cut something too short you will have to go get a replacement piece and re-cut that to the proper length.

You have learned a valuable lesson here. Plan out everything in advance carefully by making sure you understand what is needed and materials are available.


Is it normal for the voltage tester to beep when touching the refrigerator frames?

Since it's only detecting it near the water dispenser, everything is most likely working properly.

The water dispenser will likely have some electrical wiring near it to run motors or valves or what have you, and that is what it is picking up.  They are probably run quite close to the surface of the frame.  Your meter is designed to detect up to about 2 inches away from the wires.  That distance might be different through metal.

Other appliances you tested probably have their wiring further inside the unit, or shielded better.  If you tried hard enough, you'd probably see similar behaviour with other appliances near where their motors are.


The structural system seems to be independent of these walls.

However, structural loads can come from “other” building components.

The drawing appears to be a roof framing plan, but it’s not labeled and you don’t indicate if it’s a floor or roof. If the walls do not extend up into the attic and if there isn’t a post that rests on the walls, then I doubt the walls are structural.

I doubt a post would rest on any portion of these walls, except at the intersection or at the ends where there are double studs. I’d double check those areas carefully.

The drawing does not label the members above these walls, but the spans are considerably shorter than other spans. Generally once a “critical” span is determined, all the remaining spans are the same. (Using the same size lumber throughout can save money and reduce mistakes.) Therefore, if there is a superimposed load (such as an AC unit) then this area of framing could easily support additional loads without adding these additional support walls.

In addition to supporting vertical loads, the walls could be “braces” for long walls. That is to say, these walls could brace a long wall so it doesn’t wobble sideways. However, these walls have doorways so they don’t lend themselves to being a “brace”.

To answer your question, yes, it is a bit unusual that someone could visit the site and make such a quick judgement...especially if the gypsum board had not been removed yet. However, I’d guess they are not bearing walls and can be removed.