How to safely put mirror tiles on the ceiling?

A good coat of construction adhesive should do the trick if your plaster has good adhesion to the drywall underneath, and it flat enough for you to get a lot of contact surface. I would test this though and try to pull one down after it has cured. You will have to temporarily support the tiles with clips or something while it cures though.

Another option would be to use thinset tile adhesive and mount them just like regular glass tiles would be. You would apply thinset to the ceiling and the tiles with a notched trowel, and also pull one off after you set it to ensure you are getting near 100% coverage. It would be strong, but again, limited by the adhesion of the original plaster to the ceiling drywall.

You also might be able to use some kind of clip that is mounted using drywall anchors. This would provide the most piece of mind I imagine, especially if you are sleeping under it. Something like this tongue and groove board clip:


A 14/3 with a 3-way switch is going to be:

Traveler 1
Traveler 2
Either hot (in) or switched hot (out)

That means you don't have a neutral, which is a must for a receptacle (switched or not).
However, there might be a solution if you can use smart switches. Many 3-way smart switches only need one traveler. You could, potentially, install smart switches and then rewire things so that you have:

Traveler
Hot
Neutral

and pass the hot & neutral on to a receptacle. Doing this could get a bit confusing, so if you want to look into this, before you disconnect anything, upload pictures of the wires going into each of the 3-way switches.


How do I properly align an outdoor light fixture?

The mounting bracket is designed so that you can rotate the fixture, no matter how the outlet box is mounted.

The mounting bracket screws hold the lower portion of the bracket securely in place. Before securing the lower portion, be sure to insert the longer fixture screws. They need to face outward so that you can secure the hex nuts to them. If you thread the hex nuts down onto the fixture screws, the screws won't fall off while you are securing the lock nuts. See Figure 2...


The first repair is a piece of cake. Get some drywall tape and a bucket of joint compound and tape away. Rather than explain it here, just Google "taping drywall" and you'll get more information than I could ever provide.

The second one is little trickier because you'll have to support a square plug of drywall. You can get drywall clips from your home store just for this purpose. You can also get a strip on wood a few inches longer the hole and screw it into the inside portion of the hole from the outside. Then cut your plug and place it in the hole and secure it to your support with a few drywall screws, the tape like you did to the first one.

If you think you'll ever have to access the second hole for other electrical work, you can just mount a blank outlet cover over the hole.


Anchors for concrete - what to use on a concrete ceiling?

It is risky ,no matter what you use. A concrete floor/road is basically in compression. The bottom of your ceiling is in tension and concrete is generally considered to have no or poor tensile strength. There should be steel rebar in the ceiling , I would verify the presence and amount of rebar before putting holes in the concrete. Each of those anchors works by putting compressive force on the concrete in the concrete ; this compressive ( expansion ) adds to the tensile stress. I would check with local contractors and find out what they do.


Removing leftover laminate tile adhesive

Really hot water.  Have tons of towels and buckets handy so water does sit long.  Repeat until it comes up.


Symmons shower isn't producing hot water

I does sound like your cartridge has gone.
It's hard to see from the photo, but It looks like this is your valve:

It looks like you can actually just replace the spindle:

You should just be able to unscrew it from the main body if you get an adjustable wrench on the flats on the front of the threaded section just behind the splined part.
Notes:

Don't forget to shut off both supplies up-stream!
Even with the water shut off, you will likely still get some coming out when you remove the cartridge. I tuck a sheet of plastic around the bottom, and as far behind as I can go to try and catch this, so it doesn't go into the wall cavity.


I keep two things on hand, which covers 99% of use cases:

Household (3-in-1) oil
Teflon spray (or silicone)

The former is good for quick squeak fixes where dust accumulation isn't much of a concern. I use it for window blind gears, motor bearings, etc.

The latter dries to a film and tends to stay cleaner. I use it for window hardware , shelf guides, and hinge pins, for example.

WD-40 is a lubricant1, despite red-faced protests2 referencing the initials in its name3, but it's petroleum-based (or otherwise similar to kerosene--I'm not a chemist), which makes it smelly, thin, and quite a solvent as well. It's great for cleaning (adhesive and grease removal) and large-scale lubrication (plates sliding together), but doesn't last well in heavier duty applications. Using it on a door hinge, for example, will result in dirty stains on the floor and renewed squeaks in a few months. There are better products for pure lubrication.

1. Even water is a lubricant. Neither are ideal as such for household maintenance.
2. See also the motorcycling community and vigorously-defended views on drive chain lubrication.
3. Water Displacement, 40th formula


Digital multimeters, like older VTVM's, have very high input impedance and can measure tiny currents picked up through capacitance with an adjacent wire. Just touching one probe while grounding the other with a finger often shows such capacitive AC pickup. If that is the only source of the reading, then it's insignificant, not a safety issue.

To confirm that there is no issue, put a 100 kΩ or so resistor across the probes to provide a small load (about 1 mA at 100 VAC) while measuring the voltage. Leakage of 1 mA would not be a shack hazard, but still should be less than a few volts.


You should be able to adjust the roller height by accessing an adjustment screw through a hole at the sides/ends of the bottom frame piece.

Spray the adjustment screw assemblies with penetrating oil then lower the door completely by backing out (loosening) the adjustment screws; then lift the door up into the upper track and swing inward to remove it. Be careful, they are heavy; for wider sliders this is a 2-man job.

Lay it flat on sawhorses and inspect the roller mechanism for damage/wear. Spray the entire roller assembly on each side with penetrating oil then remove the rollers, they are usually removed by removing an additional screw found on the bottom of the door frame near the corners. Replace if worn or damaged, if not, grease the wheel bearings with a small amount of lightweight multi-purpose grease and reinstall.

Check all weatherstripping felt and replace as necessary. Spray the entire upper track area with spray silicone lubricant, no other type of lubricant will work as well. Check the rail that the rollers ride on, if it is damaged or corroded as to make sliding difficult, it can be repaired with a "crimp on" stainless steel track cap.

Clean entire door frame and entire track frame, using shop vac if necessary to remove all dirt and debris. Make sure wheels are set to their lowest height adjustment then reinstall the door by reversing removal steps. Adjust the door height until door rolls smoothly and is plumb at the frame on the latch side and aligned with the latch catch. Most latch catches can be adjusted slightly if necessary.

below pic is an example, there are many, many types:


how to sand-plaster a plaster wall without spreading plaster dust everywhere?

You can use a Drywall Vacuum sander http://amzn.to/2uWPcdB that connects to a vacuum. The vacuum will pick up the vast majority of dust that gets created.

These things use a special abrasive screen/sandpaper that allows the dust being created to pass through the screen/sandpaper and into your vacuum cleaner. This also helps prevent the abrasives from clogging due to dust.


I would refrain from using that type of fastener. I believe it will allow a lot of movement. I made a sketch to show what I have made before, many years ago. It does not have any hangers just angled notches that allow the legs to fit tightly and notches that act as a setting for the beam to bear on. A single bolt will draw it all together, or two could be used.

The legs are also splayed to help stabilize the swingset, and give more room for the swings.

7/12/2016 Edit

All it really takes is a circular saw set at 5 degrees or so. No set angle, just something that would draw tight as the bolt tightens. The notches on the beam are the same depth alll the way through. Just determine the angle you want the legs to splay at and make sure the overall width of the cut on the side is no wider than the leg material, otherwise the fit may be loose. The legs are what is cut at the angle. I added some sketches to help elaborate a little.

I hope it helps.


Pine and spruce don't take stain evenly, due to the pitch in the wood.  The usual way to deal with it is to start with a coat of shellac, although thinned varnish will also work.

When I did a set of pantry shelves out of pine I had the same problem.  What I did was to start with a coat of clear water based varnish.  Then I mixed clear varnish with a water based dye stain (non-pigment)  stain, at about 3 parts varnish to 1 part stain.  Applied enough coats of this to get to the tone I wanted.

It took a lot of coats.  If I were doing it again, I might go to 2/3 stain 1/3 varnish.  Fortunately the coats go on really fast.


How to fix "married" light switches that have been wired in series?

You should be able to rewire it to work the way you want if they are three-way switches.

Here's a diagram from Wikipedia:

Here's what the behaviour should be:

Switch 1    Switch 2    Light is
On          Off         On
Off         On          On
Off         Off         Off
On          On          Off

See further explanation on Wikipedia


I'm going to assume that there's not a trap inside the wall, but if I'm wrong please correct me.

You're going to want to build a standpipe.  Start by installing a P-trap into that pipe in the wall.  It's hard to tell from the picture what type of pipe it is, but you'll want to use something compatible to make the connection between pipe and trap.

From the other end of the P-trap, you'll want a 2" diameter pipe going straight up 18"-42" long.

You'll then put the washer drain into the top of the standpipe, as described in the manufacturer's installation instructions.

When you're done, it should look something like this.


Diagnosing GFCi trips with a laser printer

I agree that a badly designed product is an improbability, since it is not a refrigerator, freezer or garage door opener.  Big motor driven things tend to give GFCIs fits.  The big load in a laser printer is the fuser heater, a resistive load that has no inductive kick.

So I think it boils down to one of two cases:

The circuit is already almost tripping the GFCI due to other pre-existing ground faults, and something about the laser printer (power factor?) is the straw that broke the camel's back.  I would expect this sort of thing to improve or get worse with dry/rainy weather.   The fix would be open up and clean out those outdoor outlets, get all the dust, old leaves and rocks out of the boxes, dry them out, and then get a better outdoor cover. (how do rocks get in there anyway?)
The GFCI is marginal to begin with, and the printer is too much for it for some reason. You'd need to pause to distinguish it from the first case, and then if necessary, replace the GFCI. I would do this reluctantly.
Or, if the printer is plugged into a location that was previously unused, it is miswired (half-in, half-out of that GFCI's protection).

Either way, the proof of the pudding will be to relocate the printer to another GFCI circuit, and see if the problem moves with it.  Meanwhile put other hungry heating loads on that receptacle.


Will there be water pressure/flow into the pipe with this setting?

Pressure at the tap -- if pressure isn't being supplied by a pump, which I assume it isn't in this case -- depends on the height of the column of water. The rain barrels in my back yard are elevated 4 feet above ground level to increase the available pressure, and it's still much, much less than what I get out of the municipal water supply. I can run drip irrigation from it, or fill a watering can;  I could not run a sprinkler without adding a pump to the system.

When doing this sort of thing, also remember that water is heavy. My two rain barrels approach 2000 pounds.   Unless your proposed tank is small, make very sure that whatever is supporting it can handle that additional weight, or you may do serious damage to the building... And remember to allow for lever-arm effects as well as direct weight.


What is the minimum distance from property line water can be drained?

None that I know of in 'The Code', your Zoning is what determines specific buffers. However, the Rule Of Thumb around me says you can't discharge any water in the direction of your neighbor that would readily flow over the property line...no downspout extension legs directed at your neighbor.

In the few States I've worked it's all the same and I wouldn't doubt you're in the same boat. This includes no flow allowed over pavements and sidewalks and no curb nor sewer outlets. All water must be given the chance to absorb into your property.

Check with your Codes, Zoning, Buildings, Permits or Inspection Department (whatever yours is called).


Replacing polybutylene pipe to add a new outdoor spigot (freeze proof sillcock)

You wouldn't need to remove the entire copper tee in order to replace the poly with pex, but you would need to replace the poly fitting with a pex fitting. This can be done by "un-soldering" the fitting (heating the joint until the solder melts), then soldering the new pex fitting in its place.
If you're not up to trying that, an alternative, and probably much easier, solution would be to replace that entire intersection with pex. I've edited one of your pictures to show what I mean:

Yellow Circles: Cut copper line to remove copper tees. You can cut either side as far back as you desire (just don't forget to leave a place for that clamp and wire if you wish to reattach them). On both copper line ends, solder female sweat x pex fittings like this one:

Blue Circle: Cut the blue pex line to remove the poly fitting, and replace it with a pex coupling like this one:

Green Circle: You can use a female threaded ball valve with a fitting like this in one end:

OR, you can transition right to pex with this:

And then use a pex ball valve instead.
Finally, once all of these pex connections are installed, you will be able to configure this junction just about any way you wish. As long as you have the space, you can crimp in pex tees wherever you want them to serve multiple spigots. Not only will this allow a lot of versatility in your configuration, but it will be easy to cut out and replace sections should you make a mistake or wish to change things later.
Just FYI, if you ever need to remove a pex or poly crimp ring from a fitting so that you can reuse the fitting, the best option is a "ring buster" tool like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-2-in-to-1-in-Pex-Crimp-Ring-Removal-Tool/1000237123
But you can also carefully use a hack saw and some pliers to remove one. Hope this helps!


Do I use all grounding screws in a metal box?

You can use just one screw to the box, but you might find it easier to connect all the grounds from one half to one screw and the other half to another.


Ungrounded GFCI Outlet with 3 pronged connection

Pigtail it

Heavier wire for long runs is a good thing.  If it's just a problem of fitment of the wire, solve that with a pigtail.

Get the correct size cable for your circuit (12AWG for a 20A circuit, 12 or 14 AWG for a 15A circuit).  Cut off a 6" length of each wire, attach them to the receptacle (tip, do this sitting at a bench, a real back saver), then simply wire-nut those pigtails onto the wires in the box.  Push it all into the back of the box.  Done.

Why 2 GFCIs though?

If you don't know what you're doing, you should only use the LINE terminals of the GFCI.  But then, you did come over from the Electronics forum.   So here's the skinny.

The LOAD terminals are special. They are not simply another pair of screws like on a common outlet.

When you extend the circuit off the LOAD terminals, that extension is also protected by the GFCI.  Feeding that into another GFCI is basically doing a "Yo, dawg" joke.  it's not dangerous, just pointless.

In fact, the smart electrician will arrange his circuit so the GFCI device is indoors, with all the outdoor receptacles downline and fed off those LOAD terminals.  That way he doesn't have to spring for outdoor-grade GFCIs, and the outdoor wires themselves are also protected.

GFCI breakers are expensive for my old panel, so I have 4 GFCI receptacles right at the panel.  You can plug something in there if you really want to, but their real purpose is that their LOAD terminals go right back into the panel to power other circuits.


Is it a good idea to spraypaint my axe head?

From my friend Kevin in a personal email:

You do not want to paint any striking or chopping part of an axe head.  Paint on the striking end will cause your axe to slip when hitting something.  Paint on the cutting end (from the edge all the way to the end of the wedge portion) will cause the axe to stick and bind into whatever you are cutting with every swing.


DWV fittings: when to use a sweep instead of an elbow

If you are going by the International Residential Code, you are limited on what types of fittings you can use for sanitary drainage (see table 706.3 from the 2015 IRC below), but there are no restrictions on the fittings that can be used for venting as long as you maintain sufficient slope. Similar restrictions likely exist in the Universal Plumbing Code, but I am not as familiar.

The reason that certain fittings are restricted is to allow sufficient transition to help prevent solid waste from clogging in the drain (note that some of the restrictions are lifted for 2" and smaller pipe sizes because these pipes cannot carry any sizeable solids).


Is it okay to staple romex to a floor joist when running it perpendicular behind a finished basement ceiling?

You can run cables across and under the joists. If you do though you must install them on running boards for protection. Typically it is just easier to drill.

National Electrical Code 2011
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 334 Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC, and NMS
II. Installation
334.15 Exposed Work.
(C) In Unfinished Basements and Crawl Spaces. Where cable is run at angles with joists in unfinished basements and
crawl spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller
than two 6 AWG or three 8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges
of the joists. Smaller cables shall be run either through bored holes
in joists or on running boards. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable installed
on the wall of an unfinished basement shall be permitted to be
installed in a listed conduit or tubing or shall be protected in
accordance with 300.4. Conduit or tubing shall be provided with a
suitable insulating bushing or adapter at the point the cable enters
the raceway. The sheath of the nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall extend
through the conduit or tubing and into the outlet or device box not
less than 6 mm (¼ in.). The cable shall be secured within 300 mm (12
in.) of the point where the cable enters the conduit or tubing. Metal
conduit, tubing, and metal outlet boxes shall be connected to an
equipment grounding conductor complying with the provisions of 250.86
and 250.148.


In a word: Yes. It is perfectly acceptable to replace a portion of a paint grade column so long as you do it correctly. The technique depicted in your video-link, however, is not up to snuff. I scoured youtube for a video to no avail but here's a image of what it should look like:

Basically you need to support the load with prop studs or elephant jacks, remove the post, then cut out any and all rotted areas (if the rot extends into the turned area you're in trouble, this requires a different fix). Using a skill saw or exceptionally sharp hand saw, form the joint on the post end then lay it on top of a piece of identically dimensioned square stock and transfer the lines with a sharp pencil or better yet a scribing knife. Cut the mating joint on the extension, check the fit, then cut the extension to length. Join the two members with construction adhesive and lags as shown and then bondo any defects and sand smooth. Re-install the post and enjoy. Oh and make sure to butter the fresh end with either paint or oil or some sort of sealant first.


Can I transition from aluminum wiring to copper wiring at a CO/ALR receptacle?

The manufacturer of the receptacle should make this detail clear in their documentation. It might even be printed on the case of the receptacle, though perhaps in very abbreviated / "hieroglyphic" form.

That said...

My understanding is that aluminum wiring must be used ONLY with approved mechanical connectors specifically designed for aluminum, and of course must be installed correctly. So I do not see, offhand, why a separate copper connection on the same device would be a problem.

[Note - I am not an electrician. Aluminum wire done incorrectly is a huge fire hazard, which the OP obviously knows since s/he is obviously intending to do this right.]


How should I remove the paint to expose brickwork?

Soda blasting usually will not take off paint, does very little damage to sheetrock. Sand blasting would work better with fine sand to cet into the smaller holes. Dont use the larger stuff that looks more like rock chips. The larger size rock will do more damage.
Any time with open sandblasting you should wear a dust mask. With old paint especially prior to 1980 make sure to wear a respirator as there will probably be lead in the paint.


Can I plug a 13A washer machine into a 20A power source?

The markings on the terminal block should indicate the rating of the terminal block, not the electrical consuption of the appliance.

Also, washers usually do not consume more than 1,000 watts or so; at 120Vac things would be fine given about 8-9 amps current draw @ 1,000 watts.  At 240Vac, you should be golden with a current draw of 4-5 amps.

I say wash away without worry.  Could be wrong though I guess.


How can I repair the foundation and plaster coating in my old home's foundation?

The material underneath the plaster looks remarkably like the clay lump that my farmhouse in Suffolk, England was made from.  Clay lump is sandy-gravelly-clay+straw+lime, formed into blocks which are dried, and then built into walls with clay+lime mortar.

My guess is that your bump is not actually clay lump, but it is very likely to be an earth-based construction material (cob for example).

With luck, the plaster is lime plaster rather than a gypsum plaster (lime plaster is much more flexible).  Mixing lime plaster from lime putty (hydrated calcium hydroxide) is quite easy (particularly if you have a cement mixer).  Use a ratio of 2 parts sharp sand to one part lime putty, reinforce with finely teased hair, and you should be good to go.

You may well find that the aggregate in the plaster is your local subsoil (quite possibly from the basement you are standing in!)  If you have some subsoil exposed, it would be entirely reasonable to use it.


If it's a blister, cut it out as proposed. If it is tape that's showing due to over-sanding or lack of proper plaster thickness, apply more mud with successively wider knives until the tape is covered properly.


How to replace a single light switch with an electric dimmer switch

Technically that is the wrong switch for what its doing. That switch is designed to isolate both the incoming live and neutral. However i can see it has been jerry rigged per se as the incoming live and neutral at the top has been bridged to serve another purpose. You are going to have an issue with it. Are you able to indicate which of those cables goes where?


High or low speed for Dremel cut-off wheels?


Clothes Dryer electrical 240v between hot and netural, 0 between other hot and neutral

It sounds like the neutral connection is bad, but not totally open-circuit.
As I understand it american driers normally have the high-power stuff connected between the two hots and the control system connected between one hot and the Neutral.
With the dryer disconnected, the bad neutral is enough to give you correct voltage readings on your high-impedance multimeter, but when you connect the driers controls. it drags the neutral up to the same voltage as one of the two hots.


The answer is it matters, barely.

Beyond R25 in most climates has very very diminishing returns.  Having air seal to the house and air flow in the attic is way more important than adding more insulation.

I don't want to get into a diatribe but thermal mass (think weight of your building) is a much better indicator of energy savings than insulation.   Adding insulation on normal wood framed homes allows heat (or cold) to store in the insulation thereby negating the effectiveness beyond the "blocking".

You can use a calculator to do the numbers and for a 1000 sq ft house you are looking at around $7-10 a year... and remember this calculator does not account for the mass of your home (or lack of) and it is actually created by the insulation industry - so they are going to use the lab numbers that suit them best.

When insulating your attic - taking other things out - there are three main things:

Don't expose wood that touches the house - wood is really a poor insulator so cover it.
There has to be a thermal break.   So is there a defined area of a few inches that covers everything from everything touching your "ceiling".
Does the quantity ensure if there are low spots that there is still proper coverage.

Look at the picture below.   Once you get to the "R40ish" stage, yes more is better, but does it have any sort of lasting effect?   No.


What are the options for my window on my brick house?

The wooden part is called the window frame and going by the picture it seems to be a double hung window frame.
There are various types of frame materials (wood, metal, etc.) this site describes the different types of window frames, their pro's and con's and some other handy tips.
Among them whether to replace or repair the window frame:

Some window frames—especially wooden—can be repaired affordably. Still, you should assess the current condition of your window frame and glass before deciding if a repair or a full replacement is necessary.  Rotting windows aren’t worth the trouble to repair and often can’t be repaired anyway. Single pane windows create a drafty environment and they aren’t good for insulation or energy efficiency, so if you have single pane windows in need of attention, it’s best to replace them entirely.
If your home’s windows are double paned, you might consider repairing them versus replacing. Wooden windows can be repaired and updated easily with kits and other commercial products sold for the purpose. Older wooden window frames offer a certain charm that you won’t get from windows sold today, so making repairs is an affordable way to save that vintage aesthetic.

If you want to know what the different parts of the frame are called, you can visit this site.
Typically wooden window frames need yearly (or at the very least every couple of years) maintenance in the form of sanding and repainting.
This ensures the wood stays sealed and prevents them from rotting.
I'm not sure what the life expectancy is for wooden frames but 20 years seems a bit short, but if they weren't maintained properly then all bets are off.
Personally if the window is that rotten I'd probably look at replacing it.
By the looks of it, it's single pane glass so it might also be a good idea to upgrade the glass to a multi-pane glass type. Multi-pane glass insulates your house better and helps in keeping noise out (combined with a good window frame of course).


Do it properly, remove the worktop, remaing cupboards, then level the floor surface.

Put down the new vinyl in one piece where it will fit to the perimeter properly.

Refit the cupboards and make sure all are level and square. Then re-fitting the worktop will be easy.

I dropped a long worktop by 2” - made all the cuts after removing the top and it went back on with no problem.

You get more issues by bodging one step then having to bodge the next and the next than doing it properly in the first place.


Panel switched back on fried garage door opener (need surge protector)

The most common surge arrestors are MOV (metal oxide varistors).
The one you linked will protect a single circuit but the power issues need to be fixed first or it may fry the unit (more than a 600 joule spike and the let the magic smoke out).
They work by dumping spikes to ground but they are limited in the power they can dissipate.
They also make larger units that can be installed to protect the entire house.
breaker style I put a larger one in that required a external box and a 20a 220 breaker to feed it after that I quit having equipment not on UPS's fail. (we did have very noisy power in that house because of the industrial loads down the street).


Can a transfer switch be powered by two separate generators?

Connecting 2 different generators that can not be synced will cause disaster to the wiring and the smaller or cheaper generator if any 240v loads are connected.
Using a common neutral you are taking a risk even with only 120v loads.
With separate transfers and loads as separately derived systems could be legal but I don't think so with a common neutral.


Would covering walls with a sound absorbing foam reduce the transmission of medium-high frequency fan noise?

Easier than sound-proofing a room would be to build a sound-proof box for the server using the triangular foam. Since it's a rack-mount server, just building some ducts for the front and the back and lining the ducts with the triangular foam you linked to above may be enough.

An even better alternative might be to replace the system fans with low noise counterparts.


Because it IS NOT "violating the normal code". It is following the codes allowed for A/C units.

Electrical codes are not nearly as black and white as home centers and quick code guides will lead you to believe.

NEC 240.4(D) restricts smaller conductors (14,12&10) to lower than what is in the general ampacity charts. It also says this applies unless allowed in 240.4(E) & (G). 240.4(G) says 240.4(D) does not apply to certain installations, A/C units being in that list.
Depending on the conductor and application #10cu might be rated for 30, 35 or even 40A.

If this is a bit confusing I can post all the relevant articles.


Why do some free-standing ice makers need floor drains?

Most commercial-grade ice makers don't maintain freezing temperatures in the actual ice bin; the ice itself keeps the temperature cold in the bin, and the refrigerator coil then only has to freeze the ice tray. This strategy has several advantages:

The "cold" side of the refrigeration coil can be placed inside the bin, right against the tray, so it makes ice faster than your "frost-free" kitchen freezer icemaker, without needing to be defrosted (because it doesn't have to maintain freezing temperatures, it defrosts itself automatically between batches).
The coil and overall refrigeration system is thus more efficient at what it does (making ice quickly).
The ice is easier to scoop as it doesn't melt and refreeze when exposed to the bin door opening and closing.
The ice is "warm ice" which, again, won't try to refreeze after it melts in your drink (forming that big ice ball you get from cubes or crushed ice from your kitchen freezer.)

But, the downside is that the ice is continually melting and must be replaced with new ice, and the melting water has to be drained. Commercially, the amount of water lost to melting is usually pretty low because the ice is consumed relatively fast, but there is some and it does have to go somewhere. Your kitchen freezer, at about 0*F, can maintain hard frozen ice indefinitely, so it doesn't need a drain and it only has to replace the ice at the rate it's used, which is a good thing because the ice tray relies on ambient air temperature to freeze the water, instead of active transport of heat by the clooling loop in contact with the tray. Similar "home-grade" ice makers are smaller in size and keep the ice frozen. These are good for the occasional large party, but they just don't make ice fast enough for a drink station at a restaurant or concessions stand.

As far as placement, the drain line can pretty much be anywhere and go anywhere, as long as it goes into the sanitary sewer and obeys all other code regarding slope, length to the nearest vent stack, etc. There is a big difference between your basement floor drain and the one in a professional kitchen; the one in your basement was designed to drain relatively clean water either from a plumbing failure or from weeping through the basement walls. It ties into the municipal storm sewer, an "open" sewer designed for precipitation, which will dump any water you put in it directly to the nearest creek. Professional kitchen floor drains tie into the sanitary line, which is the "sealed" sewer that carries food and bodily wastes and cleanser residues from most of your interior drains out to the wastewater treatment plant where those wastes are removed. So, if you buy an ice maker that needs a floor drain, you will need to have a drain specially installed that feeds into the sanitary line. The design is pretty standard; a 3 or 4-inch line, with or without a grate over it, that drops straight down about a foot into a J-trap, and from there to the main sanitary trunk line. This drain will need a backflow preventer on it.


Will I be forced to bring fridge and laundry circuits up to code?

There's no general retroactivity requirement in the CEC that I can find

CEC Rule 2-022 only requires renovation of the electrical installation if some hazard is posed by the condition of the installation or as a result of alteration thereto:

  The inspection department may require such changes as may be necessary to be made to existing installations
  where, through hard usage, wear and tear, or as a result of alterations or extensions, dangerous conditions have
  developed.

However, if you're required to upgrade: Dedicated, yes.  20A, no.

The CEC (as of the 2015 edition I was able to find) does require dedicated circuits for the laundry (26-722(b)) and refrigerator (26-722(a)) receptacles; however, they are permitted to be 15A receptacles on 15A circuits.


How can I bend 180 degrees over a duct trunk with height restriction?

There's no rule that all your bends need to be plumb and/or level - these things flex for a reason.
Move the start collar to the left (in the picture). Rotate it so that instead of making a  90° straight up, it goes up and to the right. Make your next 90° continue that "up and right" direction until it clears the top of the main trunk, but doesn't hit the ceiling. Wiggle & adjust until you have satisfactory clearance from all surfaces.

Thinking more about it (and to be abundantly explicit):
I'd connect the two elbows to make a "straight" 180° turn, then push it up against the trunk line toward the left of the joist bay and "lay it down" toward the right until it cleared the floor above*. If you want/need the take off to run down the center of the joist bay, the take off from the trunk can be under a joist above or even in the next bay over - there's no rule about that, either. Once you've got it in a "safe" position, mark the screw holes, cut the appropriate openings and fix it into place.
I'd do this more than adjusting the rotation of the individual elbows, as that may mean that you're not getting them to make the 180° turn you need.
*I believe this is the same thing isherwood said in his comment.


What you describe won't work, and it's not safe for you (or anyone else) to do what you describe.

If you have a single phase 120 volt generator and you need to supply power to a 240 volt split phase load, the safest way is to use a transformer with a 120 volt primary connected to the generator and a 120-0-120 volt secondary connected to the appliance.


With a roof line that low, I'd recommend a multi-position ladder because it can be used as either a step ladder or an extension ladder, making it useful for a lot of the projects that you'll probably be working on in the near future: getting on the roof, painting high up on the walls, getting up in the attic, etc.  If your roof line was much higher than that, I would go with a dedicated extension ladder.

Look for one that allows stabilizer bars to be attached when it's being used as an extension ladder (if you're like me, there's a temptation to reach just a little bit further to the side than you should).

Ladders come in a range of weight ratings so make sure that you get one that will work for your weight, and allow a margin for the weight of any tools and/or supplies you might be carrying.


Feasibility of using 18V batteries to power AC tools

It's possible but not as easy as stringing them into an inverter.
DeWalt makes a device for this purpose in their 20v line.

https://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/generators-and-portable-power/1800-watt-portable-power-station-and-simultaneous-battery-charger/dcb1800b


Can I use particle board over wood plank flooring to smooth it out for laminate flooring?

I'd personally choose 1/2" OSB.  It's inexpensive, and ought to hold up reasonably well, even against limited moisture.  DO NOT USE particle board.  It swells way up and then DISSOLVES if it gets wet.


An exceptionally brief search for "pipe threader" revealed many options. Hand sets for under $100, powered models are available at most tool rental places.

PVC and ABS pipe is typically glued (ok, solvent welded) together. Threading typical schedule 40 plastic will probably weaken it enough that you may as well just push the joints together.


Do I need to use molly/toggle bolts to mount an over the range microwave if I can attach the mounting bracket to studs?

You are better off mounting it to the studs. If there's no studs near the edge then I would add a toggle there.


How Should I Fill In a Hole in Slab Around Floor Drain

If the PVC drain indicates the age of the plumbing and the house, or at least when the slab was installed, there should be a layer of poly acting as a moisture barrier in between the concrete and gravel. Aside from that, all you need is to add the original gravel back into the hole and repair the vapor barrier and finish off the fill with a bag or two of concrete from any local building supply, big box or otherwise. A detail that would be good to do is be sure the hole cut inti the concrete floor is not all undercut. As in, the concrete should not be broken out so the hole is larger the bottom edge of concrete than the concrete at the floor level. A little undercutting is ok, but the concrete you add needs to lock in so it will not settle down away from the original concrete.


How to test if both Hot wires are disabled without Neutral?

That's what a non-contact tester is for. You test with it before and make sure it is showing voltage and then flip the breaker and make sure it is clear. It should not be the only thing you do before working on potentially live wires/equipment, but it provides a very useful double-check.


Is there a product for channeling water away from water appliances?

Water heaters have pans. You place the pan under the water heater, then attach a hose to send the water someplace less damaging.

You can also get water sensors, which rest on the floor and sound an alarm if water is detected.

There's less stuff for dishwashers and washing machines, as they only contain water when in use, and there should be someone nearby when in use. Water heaters are commonly left alone for weeks on end, which gives more time for a small leak to turn into something damaging.


Sliding Glass Door Mortise Lock Replacement

In order to replace this lock, I needed to take the door off the track and then dismantle the aluminum frame with a block of 2x4. Once apart, I unscrewed the locking mechanics and then rotated the lock 90 degrees inside the aluminum channel and slid it to the top. (It would not come out of the bottom.) To replace the lock, I followed the same process in reverse.
It's a shame that the whole door had to come apart to replace a $12-13 part. But I am glad it is done. If pictures are needed for someone else, I will be more than happy to post some.


Why do my halogen lamps keep burning out?

@Andyaka, I know you don't need the extra reputation, but it would be
  cleaner for future viewers. Please copy your comments into an answer,
  so I can accept it.

Getting to the bottom of why the halogen bulbs have failed may be difficult. There is no technical reason for them to unnaturally fail but it could be a bad batch but my advice is not to replace the halogen bulb with another halogen type.

I'm swapping out all my old bulbs for LEDs everywhere in my house for reasons of long-term economy. It looks like your bulbs are G4: -

And there are plenty of LED replacements coming into the market place now. This wasn't true 3 years ago. Anyway here are a couple: -


What is the best way to remove popcorn from the ceiling?

My wife and I just finished doing this last month. Here's the process we took:

Before you start, check to make sure you don't have asbestos in the popcorn. If your house is newer construction, you don't have to worry about this, but if it's older, you may want to scrape a bit off the ceiling and send it to a lab for testing. If it comes back positive, I would have professionals handle it. Otherwise:

Cover everything you don't want to get gross and disgusting.
Turn off breaker for the lights and remove fixtures.
Use a spray bottle or a garden sprayer to wet 5' by 5' sections of ceiling with water. Be careful not to oversaturate it and damage the drywall.
Scrape off popcorn with a 6" or 12" taping knife, whichever you find easier to handle.
Sand any spots you missed that are still rough. (For the most part, everything comes off smooth.)
Apply mud liberally to any gouges you made. Most spots I had to go over were at the seams of the drywall.
Sand again.
Repeat 6 and 7 if you're OCD like me. If you want to get everything super smooth, shine a flashlight or work light parallel with the ceiling to find raised/gouged areas.
Wipe down the ceiling to get rid of any sanding dust.
Prime
Paint with 2 coats of ceiling paint.
Throw away drop cloths
Lie on the floor and stare at your new smooth ceilings :)

One bit of advice: You're going to make A LOT of dust, and it will get all over everything in your house that isn't covered. We did the whole process before we moved in, so we only had to wipe down the walls and floors.

After you're all done, you'll probably want to change your air filter as well.


Your approach is sound. I wouldn't bother toeing screws in from top/bottom. I would drill through both the stud and the filler board and attach with nuts/bolts/washers (as opposed to threading a screw into the stud). Two bolts above the bar and two below.

Alternatively you can attach horizontal 2x4's across your studs with recessed lag bolts and then mount the pull-up bar to those. Since the 2x4's will be attached to the studs the same way the pull-up bar would have been attached you won't lose much connective strength.


Assessing water damage to wood beneath bathroom

I've seen a lot worse. There doesn't appear to be any mold. I'd rip the thinset up to the extent of the loose tiles and the water staining below as soon as possible and start the drying out process. When the drying is complete, you'll be in a better position to judge for damage. If you caught it fast, you'll probably be OK. Once dried, you might think about spraying some white vinegar on the wood to kill any mold/mildew that might be thinking about growing.


Is it possible that a room ambient noise generator could reduce traffic sounds from outside?

A white noise generator is like spraying perfume to cover a nasty smell.  The smell is still there, just the perfume is stronger.  The nastier the smell, the stronger the perfume needs to be to cover.

A white noise generator produces noise that our brain quickly ignores.  If this noise is louder that the outside noise, then it will mask it.  But a word of warning, if you have to turn the white noise generator up enough to cover loud outside sounds you might risk your hearing.  Even though our brain doesn't 'hear' the white noise, our ears still do.  And a constant loud noise will produce hearing loss over time.


What could be causing an orange flame on all appliances?

It is (very) surprising that the gas company (Xcel) says "everything's fine." This document from a different gas company certainly calls out non-blue flames as an issue that needs to be resolved. As does this site. And Xcel themselves.

Happening on all appliances does seem a bit less likely to be "and suddenly the air adjustments on all three went whacky" than a contamination issue - possibly water in the gas line?

I wonder how your furnace tech visit went, and what your neighbor's flames look like.

Editing post-comments: Ultrasonic humidifiers make small water droplets (without evaporating the water first) and then those small droplets evaporate while floating around - if the water contains salts or minerals, any salts or minerals in the water will end up floating around the house as tiny specks when the water evaporates from the tiny droplets. Those, evidently, are what is contaminating your gas flames as they are sucked in along with the air required to burn the gas. Old-style "sponge" dehumdifiers (should) only result in water vapor in the air, as they actually evaporate the water (and this eventually leads to a build-up of scale and salts in the humidifier and its sponge element, as those do not evaporate.)


Weatherstripping for inswing exterior door with clearance problems. Clearance door sweep?

I've used mounted door sweeps for this before and it seemed to work well.


How to connect a 4-wire range from this panel?

This is your main panel so grounds and neutrals are allowed to be attached to the same bars.
You'll need a four wire whip, probably provided, from you new range, to your outlet box. Connect your black to black, red to red, white to white and green to bare copper. The black and the white wires should be 120 Volts phase to neutral and 240 Volts phase to phase.
Check your instruction booklet and it will tell you how to remove any jumper from neutral to ground on your range.
Make sure your range amperage does not exceed the breaker and wires that are feeding your range circuit.
If your range didn't come with a 4 wire whip, you might be able o add the white wire depending on the FMC size.


Best solution for outdoor outlet with permanent connection?

You need a weatherproof 4/O to single-gang plate with in-use cover:


Insulating ducts in unfinished basement?

There are products specially made for wrapping the metal HVAC ducts.  Its not recommended to use wall insulation (your 40-ft roll) with HVAC because it isn't designed to handle the temp changes.

Before you insulate the ducts they should be properly sealed with mastic or foil tape.  This basically means cleaning the dirt/dust off of the duct before sealing.


Can a washing machine closet be located adjacent to an electric panel?

Yes you can place the washer next to the electrical panel. As long as the door on the panel can open 90 degrees and there is a total width of 30" the panel it is legal. The working space 30" for the panel can be from 1 edge extending 30 inches beyond the other side (or actual width if the panel is wider).


Attach New Brace to Joists for Ceiling Fan

When I have attic access and need to add an electrical box for a fan or light I use two pieces of wood. One is made long enough so that it lays flat across the tops of the ceiling joists. The second piece is made to mount under the first piece but be on edge. Typically this second piece needs to be cut for width so that its bottom edge comes right at the level where the top of the electrical box needs to be located. Both pieces are cut from 1.5 inch thick framing lumber. The top flat piece is screwed down through the top ends into the tops of the ceiling joists. The other "on edge" piece is screwed to the top piece down from the top of the flat piece. The screws that hold these pieces in place should be respectable size and length screws installed through clearance holes and into pilot holes. For 1.5 inch thick lumber I typically use 3.5" #10 size screws.

This makes for a very sturdy mount for an electrical box even for fan mounts.

There is another significant advantage to this approach. It does not put sidewise pressure or pounding on to the ceiling joists. Such pounding and pressure can cause blistering of drywall finish on the ceiling where screws or nails are holding up the ceiling drywall.


How can I rig a battery backed-up sump pump for an exterior pit?

why dont you just use an UPS (uninterruptible power supply)?  just locate it inside and run a cord out to your pump.  that way your UPS is inside and warm and dry (keeps the electronics happy) and your pump will work one way or the other - you will also get an audible alarm if there is a problem.


What should I consider / know about before replacing with a Stab Lok GFCI breaker?

Don't go there

The Stab-Lok GFCI-breaker is a two-pole half-width Stab-Lok, mechanically speaking, with one of the handles removed and one of the poles connected mechanically to the GFCI trip solenoid instead of having a normal trip mechanism.  This is a problem because it renders them quite vulnerable to the infamous Stab-Lok common-trip jam defect -- either an overcurrent trip or a GFCI trip could cause the breaker to jam up, utterly defeating its utility as a protection device.

Instead, fitting a GFCI-receptacle at the first receptacle on the circuit, or cutting into the homerun and adding a box for a deadfront-type GFCI, would be recommended, if you are not replacing the panel, that is.

(Note that new-build Canadian Stab-Loks may or may not be any better than their crappy USA counterparts, still are vulnerable to bus burnups, and are not listed for use in the USA anyway, so don't make the trip across the border either.)


Why do my ceiling fan lights come on bright then suddenly dim?

One professional installer (who wasn't hired) told me that there was some power limiter in these fans that they routinely disabled on installation because of call-backs. I installed three of these fans myself in a relative's house (no remotes) with existing ceiling fixtures and wall switches. I just followed the directions and so far no complaints. My wife had two similar Hunter fans with remotes installed in our house in rooms with no ceiling fixtures. Pressing and holding the light button brightens or dims the lights. The installers didn't disable any power limiters present. No wall switches for our fans.

The absence of wall switches for our Hunter fans means I can't replicate your report. Without a wall switch the receiver is always powered and I don't have a major transient when using the button. I did have one failure with one of our two fan--neither light nor fan would come on. I assumed the connections were bad and I redid each connection in the fan shroud and it worked. Problem solved.

Then it did it again. Thinking the receiver was bad I removed it and wired the fan straight and we used the pull chains. Then I rigged up a test apparatus with a bulb as load and tested the receiver for both light and fan (using a single 40 W incandescent bulb as both load and indicator) and it passed all the tests. I reinstalled the receiver and it worked . . . but then had another failure. This time I just cycled the breaker on the circuit and the fan worked again, and has not failed for a year since.


Do I need an egress window in a basement studio apartment with two doors?

The Code says: 1) “basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening”, 2) “where basements have more than one sleeping room, an emergency escape opening shall be required in each sleeping room”, 3) emergency escape and rescue openings shall open directly into a public way or into a side yard that opens directly to a public way”.  (See ICC R310.1)

Btw, the Code says from the sleeping room, not from an adjoining room like a laundry room, (which can be highly flammable. )

Btw, two exits into two separate exit systems does not qualify, unless one exit is in an approved fire rated exit system that leads directly to a public way.


Used wood stain on a coffee table and it dried with spots?

Staining can be a very fussy process.  It's not as easy as they make it look in the commercials or on those DIY shows (if you want it to look good).  Preparation is key.  Any defects in the wood like knots, checks, sanding marks, etc. will only be exaggerated by the stain.  You should sand to at least 220.  Keep in mind that some woods, like pine, just don't take a liquid stain well at all.  For those, a gel stain would be better.  In general, a gel stain is a lot more forgiving for an even color appearance.


Outlets that seem to be on same circuit, but not behaving that way

The old way of running kitchen plugs was to split the top and bottom plugs so each plug was on a seperate feed. This was accomplished by running 3 wire between the plugs and removing the breaker tabs, the entire thing was conected to a dual pole break so the entire plug would trip at once.

If your house was built to code before the advent of gfci this is probably what is going on.

If you test the breakers for those plugs and find them tied together with breaker bars or some othe way this is almost certainly the case.

Unless they were wired with 12g cable you will need dual pole 15a gfci breakers rather than 20a gfci plugs to add gfci protection or to run new cable and 20a breakers.

Fyi: not an electrician


Will 21 inch replacement blades fit a mower with blades that measure 20-5/8 inches?

My Mahindra has several similar differences. Not being made in the US the metric measurements are slightly different. With the measurements being just a couple of 8ths under will work fine.


As requested made this an answer. it looks like the threads have some pipe dope on them. a couple of wraps of PFTE / Teflon tape on the threads will seal it up. the small rolls at the home stores are less than a dollar. that will seal it up if there is not enough left on the threads. – Ed Beal May 26 at 19:02   delete


Which pipes are what in this basement rough-in?

The small one in the top left coming out of the floor is likely for a shower or tub. The larger diameter pipe coming out of the floor is almost certainly for a toilet. The smaller pipe to the right of the toilet that continues up is for the lavatory (i.e. sink).

You can tell these things because:

The toilet requires a 3" rough-in.
Showers and tubs require rough-ins within the floor and the rough-in must contain a P-trap. So you can confirm that pipe in the top left is for a shower or tub by taking off the cap and pouring some water in it. If it "fills up" some before draining, you'll know it has a P-trap and is indeed for a shower or tub.
The sanitary tee in the pipe that continues up is placed approximately correctly for a vanity sink.


It looks like a termite to me, The body is thick all the way back. Ants have a narrow body in the center. Make sure to check around your foundation and look for evidence especially where the dirt is close to the wood. It is possible that a swarm just arrived and that one came into the house through a door or window. With Termites and Carpenter ants it is best to be proactive because they can do a lot of damage in a short period of time. If you are not able to do the inspection under the house it might be worthwhile to hire a pest control company to do the inspection.


Determining Bus-Bar Rating for PV Installation

Originally I was wondering if the Mains 225A max. from the label inside the panel box was the rating of the bus bar. Since it seems there are/can be addition labels on the panel interior itself (the black plastic holding the breakers and bus bars), I wasn't sure if I'd have to pull the meter and main breaker to confirm.

Researching Schneider's website, I noted that for 42-space single phase interiors in QO plug-on neutral style there appear currently to only be 225A bus bar ratings available for purchase. While that seems to be a pretty good indicator, I still wanted to confirm a bit more if possible.

I contacted Schneider's technical support to ask if they could confirm that they've only ever sold 225A bus bar interiors for the style/size/phase of my box. The representative wasn't able to do that. But representative proceeded to say in our chat:

  But if you look at the wiring diagram label (should be on the inside of the box on the right or left endwall), it will have a rating along the lines of "Mains max" or somewhere along those lines. That will give you the rating of the bus. It is most likely 225 A, but I can't say for sure without knowing the actual part number

So it appears that you can determine the bus bar rating from the panel box interior label without needing to find a label on the breaker holding interior itself.


Electricians, do you see any problems with this wiring diagram for power at light shared between independent light groups?

This looks good, although you'll have to pay attention to keeping your neutrals separated in the switch boxes!
Your plan for the light circuit should not be an issue at all; you're running proper NEC 2011 new-style switch loops with neutrals provisioned for future use, and your fixtures are designed to take LED modules, not Edison-base bulbs, so some dim bulb incandescenthead can't go in and overload the circuit with their heat globes, either.
The one caveat, though, is that you can't just glom all the neutrals together in the switch boxes like you're used to.  You'll need to keep the lighting neutral strictly separate from any other neutrals present there to avoid falsely tripping your GFCIs, if nothing else.
Also, in an unrelated note, I'd consolidate the two apparently-adjacent switch boxes in your plan into a single six-gang box.  If that's impossible, though, I'd at the very least get all the fan switches into one box and move the switches for the rest of the lighting out by themselves so that you don't have awkward problems with crossed wires.  Another aid to dealing with that is using individual THHN wires in ENT ("smurf tube") between the fan and its light switch box; that way, you're no longer constrained by cable configuration limitations.


Can I replace a tiled shower with a fiberglass shower pan?

Short answer:  He/She may be correct but ask them what problems they forsee running into that made them decide that.

Long answer:
This should be possible but I'm not sure it will be visually appealing and you might have problems finding a premade pan that fits your space.  You may also need to redo the drain plumbing since fiberglass pans have standard locations for the drain unless specially ordered (usually directly in the center or centered along one of the short walls).

You will also need to remove the bottom row of tile on the walls above the height that the pan will occupy and then retile that row to properly overlap the pan edge for drainage.  The question here is if you have sufficient space between the studs in the wall and the existing tile to overlap without there being a visible change in tile angle on the bottom row.

You might also have to remove some drywall (or whatever you have covering your studs adjacent to the shower bay) in order to get the pan to slide in and then re-patch that area when finished.


Installing an acrylic glass pane as a one-sided shower cabinet - feasibility & tools

Main problem

Plexiglass and lexan are different from glass:

They are much more flexible for a given thickness.
They scratch very easily.
They don't break casually.

Of the two, lexan is tougher form.

Because of the greater flexibility, you probably don't want to use the "minimalist metal" designs favoured by the glass shower door set.  You probably want to do things to make the material stiffer.

In particular, the sheet will want to twist.  The ones secured to the tub and ceiling won't be a problem, but the door is attached only by the hinges.  This panel can twist, one corner going in, other going out.  You need to make the door more rigid.

Both lexan and plexiglass are easily glued.   I think that 2" wide strips glued to the face would make it much stiffer.  You might want to buy some scraps of 1/16" lexan and do a scale mockup of your door.

If you use lexan for making the mounts to attach to the walls/ceiling/tub, there is no reason to use the same colour.

Locally our plastic cut goods wholesalers will cut to your spec.  They will also sell you scraps at very low prices.  Buy a box of scraps first, and learn to work with it.  You will want to know now to glue, and polish edges.

Here's a guide for doing lexan:  https://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/blog/uncategorized/how-to-glue-polycarbonate/

(My examples use lexan, because it's usually cheaper than plexiglass, but working with any of these is quite similar.)

Additional considerations.

Is there an additional place in the house to bathe?  If not, then you have to always have a usable bathtub for some block of time every day.  I did a kichen reno.  Washing dishes in the laundry room was a nuisance.  I swore my next kitchen would have two sinks just because of this.

In view of the considerations below, you may want to try to figure out how to put a shower somewhere else in the house before making a mess in your present bathroom, even if it's a $200 plastic stall rigged inside the mudroom entrance.  (Useful later with kids and dogs)

It also appears that your bath shares the room with the laundry.  Is there another possible laundry location?

Water damage potential

Your photo looks like a different tile is above, substantially higher than the 66 cm marked.  If it is actually dryall or cermalite or some panel product you need to address this too.

The ledge on the recess is going to have standing water on it after every shower, much more than gathers there during a bath.  Unless that tiling was VERY well done, you may have future problems.

While tile is very waterproof grout isn't.  Water will move through the grout and into the substrate.  If that substrate is cement backer board, and was properly sealed, you are golden.  I'm not sure how you find out.  If the tile was done with adhesive instead of mortar, especially the more recent low VOC adhesives, water will gradually remove it's sticking power.

Prevention:

Verify the silicon seal at corners.
Reapply grout seal.  I'd use several coats on that ledge.  Put a yearly reminder in your calendar program to redo it periodically.

That said:  At age 15 in the 60's I tiled our bath at home using non-low VOC adhesive directly onto non-water resistant drywall.  It was used daily for the next 15 years before needing to be redone.  Nothing is forever.

Future repairs

Is there access to the space under that ledge from the other side?  If not, then how do you plan to replace the faucets when the time comes.  As a general rule, put in access panels for the connection of utility plumbing to fashion.  Someone is going to want to change something at some time.  If for no other reason than you can no longer get the parts to keep it from dripping.  If you are going to have to wreck the tile work to fix plumbing, then you may want to do it now when its all under control and you can plan for it.

Alternate solution:

They make track shower curtains that are hung from the ceiling.  A half track of one of these, combined with the diagonal curtain at the wall, and a shower on hose attached to the present water supply may be a workable solution.


can cylindrical and mortise locks be keyed alike?

As long as you can remove the cylinders, the locks can be rekeyed. However, if the locks are from different manufacturers (Schlage, kwikset, Yale, etc.), the cylinders or more may have to be replaced.  When purchasing the doors, ask if you have the option of which brand lock is installed. Try to get locks from the same manufacturer, if possible. If you can, match the brand to the existing doors in the home, then you can have all the locks keyed to use a single key.

If the locks are both from the same manufacturer, they should be able to be keyed to use the same key. This could mean rekeying both (if it's a new home, and you're changing all the locks), or just rekeying one (adding a lock to an existing home).


Why nut with gasket on tile cutter wheel?

Nylon insert lock nuts are the full name of the nut. The Nylon inside the nut prevents the nut from working itself off the bolt due to friction and compression. You would want to install the nut with the round side facing away from the bolt head.


How can I prevent the intake vent for an on demand water heater from getting plugged?

Picture of the vents would help. The way I've usually seen them installed is with a 90deg elbow on the intake so that it points down. That would prevent snow from clogging it.

The exhaust vent pipe usually has a 90 deg elbow so that it points up. You can get a rain cap for the end of it to keep rain/snow out.

Looking at this document from your manufacturer it shows one of the vents elbowed to face down like I indicated the other one isn't.

After seeing the pictures of your vents it looks like you can elbow the one on the right and then get a hooded cap for the one on the right. Something like the Noritz PVT-HL looks like it might work.

Then you can install a tighter mesh to keep the wasps out.

By the way, have you tried those wasp deterrents that look like nests? I haven't but they seem to have good reviews.


The shower head side would appear to have wrenching flats so normally one would use an adjustable wrench on that side. Someone has used pliers and badly scored the surface so if you want to discard the head, then just do the same.

On the supply pipe I use pliers over a rag. It appears that Teflon tape was used to seal the threads, but normally sealing these threads is not necessary. There is supposed to be a soft rubber seal inside the shower head fitting which the end of the supply tube presses against. The water is stopped at that point and never reaches the threads.

I tighten just enough to stop it from leaking. There is no point in over tightening because this over compresses the seal. If it would leak, the leak is only when the shower is on and the leaked water goes down the drain (as opposed to a leak inside a wall).


How can I replace a water pipe on the second floor without the need to damage the bathtub?

First of all, the water damage in your unit could simply be because the upstairs people aren't properly closing the shower curtain when they shower, not the result of leaking pipes.

If there is a leaking pipe, you will not be going through the tub to fix / replace it - that would destroy the tub.  You'll be opening up the wall on the other side of the tub, or the floor under the tub, or more likely both.

As for tracing the pipes - if they're copper you might be able to use a metal detector but its generally most reliable to open the walls up and trace them.  You might be able to tell where the pipes are running by studying the basement where they enter the walls but that's still not guaranteed to help.


Are phosphate floor screws suitable for subfloor which will be covered in thinset and cement board?

Phosphate offers no more protection than galvanized or paint coating ; The good news is once the thinset cures ,they will always be dry so corrosion won't be a problem.


Fuse blew, outlet didnt work, replaced outlet, still not working

You blew another “fuse”
Well, it’s not meant to be a fuse.  It’s meant to be a solid wire splice. But it was weak to begin with, but the high draw from your adventure finished it off.
it’s a wire connection either at the last outlet that is working, or the first outlet that has failed.  You’ll need to check both of them.
Often, you can’t clearly identify the sequence.  If so, you’ll need to check all the outlets in the circuit including switches and lamps.
Both visually inspect, and also check tightness of the screws.  Note that you can’t do either one  on a “back stab” type connection.  As it happens, those are also the worst culprits in cases like this.  That’s why we don’t like them. Builders love them because they’re fast. But this is the price you pay.
Since you quite efficiently answered ThreePhaseEel’s questions, we can say definitively that the trouble is with the neutral wire.  That is the only one you really need to check.


Tub to shower conversion plumbing questions

This is way too much to answer in a single question, especially without pictures... but here goes:

...it looks like we can't re-use the same drain line for the shower as we have in the tub. Would it be better just to cut the drain line back to main drain line and run new shower drain?

You certainly can use the same drain line but it will need to be altered to exactly align with the drain assembly in your new "stand up shower kit", which may necessitate cutting it back to reconfigure it.

...we don't need the overflow drain cover anymore... can we just cap that section?

The "overflow drain cover" is just a part of an entire bathtub drain unit called a waste and overflow assembly; which should be long gone since you state that "the tub is out". All that should remain after bathtub removal is a trap and drain line (which will likely need to be removed/reconfigured for the shower, see above).

Is there an easy (no soldering) way to convert two faucet handles (hot & cold) into one shower faucet handle?

NO there is nothing "easy" about plumbing when you are a "complete amatuer"; however, it may be a fun learning experience from which you will emerge more confident and competent.
I presume you mean to replace the old two-valve/two-handled tub filler valves with a modern single-handle/knob shower control valve. This might be accomplished with some new-fangled fittings that don't require soldering (I will assume copper since you mention solder) but I would recommend that you solder the connections (which means you get to buy a torch and a bunch of extra fittings and some pipe to practice with until you have a new skill that you are fluent with).
You must fit the new valve and drain to the shower kit to ensure that the pipes in the wall and floor are positioned perfectly, which means that you will probably need to install and uninstall ("dry fit") the assembly multiple times. Follow instructions and have patience.


Repairing leaking DWV vertical 3" thin wall PVC

The smaller diameter pipe is because it is specified for in-wall use.  The socket end of a standard 3" PVC pipe coupling is 3.97" which is wider than a 2 x 4 stud wall cavity, which is 3.5".  The 3.25" pipe OD on the in-wall pipe allows for a smaller coupling which can fit inside the wall cavity.

Depending on the size and type of leak, you might have been able to seal it up without having to cut it out.  I put a nail for a picture frame through a drain line once.  To repair it, I scraped some shavings from some scrap PVC, mixed it with a little bit of PVC solvent until it formed a paste and then filled the nail hole with it.  Note, that I would never do this on a pressurized line.


These adapters are using the electrical wire to transmit data over your power wiring. If there is excessive electrical noise surges or droops this can cause packet loss. Installing a whole house surge suppressor could eliminate surges droop is less common in my experiance and many times is caused by bad connections. Power line monitoring may be the only way to find out if it is the power line causing the problem or the quality of the adapters.


How can I stop this water from entering my basement?

For a complete repair there are 2 obvious directions to cover which you mentioned.  I'll go over what I would do in your situation.
Fix from inside
One product I would use is a hydraulic cement which can be found easily at your local home improvement store.  This stuff is great for fixing large leaks in the basement.... if you can find the source.  Hydraulic cement would be more permanent than a concrete filler or sealant and is commonly rated to 2000lb to 3500lb of hydrostatic pressure.  Stay away from your cheap concrete sealant you would find somewhere like Home Depot.  Most of these are water resistant, but not at all made for stopping leaks.  Assuming you do find your leak source and fill every hole, the main cause is still unaddressed.  For that we go outside.
Fix from outside
Fixing grading and downspouts will help a lot, however, in torrential downpour you may still get heavily saturated earth around your foundation, which is a bad thing.  Even worse, (depending on where you live) is water expansion as it freezes in the cracks.  This could seriously worsen the issue.
Probably one of the best (and probably the hardest solutions) is to use a polyethylene foundation wrap, something like this, in conjunction with a proper drain system at the bottom of the footing. Below is an example installation from the DMX installation guide found here.

A perforated drain pipe, crush rock, and proper drain or drainage field is necessary to keep the water moving.  Below is an example of a proper drainage system as provided by the EPA

Hope this helps, and best of luck!


How do I wire a light with only two white wires and nothing else?

Strange it came with no documentation.

The backward UR is an underwriters laboratories recognized component marking. It appears to have a C before it and a US after it.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_(safety_organization)#Recognized_Component_Mark

That doesn't mean the whole assembly is UL approved but it means that part has been tested.

Either send it back and get a refund, or contact the company that sold it to you for instructions.


Can fiber-optic data cable be run overhead to a garage?

Yes, absolutely.

The fiber you'll want for this job is "Drop" fiber - it's made to resemble (and work with the hardware for) telephone "drop" wire - and it's relatively inexpensive while being quite robust.

While we tend to knee-jerk away from aerial fiber because it's more exposed to damage, this is a perfectly viable solution.

However, for most home applications at this time, it's going to be much cheaper/easier and adequately effective (not really as fast as fiber, but probably faster than your internet feed unless you have gigabit fiber to your house) to use a 5 GHz "ac" "Point to Point" radio link between the buildings.


Before the key gets stuck, use graphite to lubricate the lock.

When the key gets stuck, there's nothing preventing you from using the other side of a lock (it's not the same keyhole).

If you can't gently unstick the key (forcefully removing a key may bend the pins in the lock, rendering it useless), then it's probably easiest to replace the entire lock.  They aren't too expensive, and installing them where the same size lock already exists is a simple matter of unscrewing the old and screwing in the new.


How can I avoid blotches when staining pine?

First, Minwax wiping stains are inferior...so is there conditioner...in fact the only thing they do well is marketing. Step up to Sherwin Williams BAC or Old Masters and you'll never look back. Having said that, in this case you need a gel stain. Second, conditioner although indispensable when working with soft woods, will only get you so far. With a quality piece like your door you really need to start with a sprayed alcohol based dye stain, then conditioner, then gel stain (not wiping or penetrating). Once you're satisfied with the color, seal it with a good sanding sealer that's compatible with your ultimate finish. At this point if you choose you can add a glaze, but make sure it too is compatible. In particular if you plan to use a Sikkens varnish you'll want to avoid glazing. Now it's time for finish. I personally like a pre-cat lacquer but occasionally we spray conversion varnish too. If you don't have a booth you'll probably want to stick to varnish or poly-urethane which can be brushed on easily. If its for exterior use, use a spar varnish or Sikkens (bearing in mind the compatibility issues). Cheers!


You will need to seal the basement walls and the basement floor to accomplish this.

I have seen the dirt removed from around the face of the basement walls and then the walls sealed and the dirt returned - generally it is a trenching around the basement wall of the house - but I have only seen them do one wall.

There is another way to do it that is easier and works from the inside of the house:

how-to-waterproof-basement


Can spray foam be used between Rim joist and exterior sheathing?

I think spray foam will be a bit of a mess applied this way, you'll get drips, and it's incredibly difficult to remove the residue if it runs down the wall.

I would not try to seal this up air tight, I'd just rather make it less drafty but still permeable.  You may see a small difference in insulation but if it winds up trapping water or vapor somewhere unexpected, it won't be worth it.

I think I'd pack this space with mineral wool insulation and put some kind of flashing or trim over it.  Drip edge might work for that, it's inexpensive, readily available, and easy to apply.  The rock wool won't trap water or vapor, wick water, rot or grow mold.

I think mineral wool would be at least as much of a rodent barrier as spray foam, which isn't hard for rodents to get through, but you could use stainless steel wool instead of mineral wool if you wanted a filler that's really rodent resistant.


Where is American Wire Gauge (AWG) used? European standards

As far as I know, Europe (or pretty much the whole world other than USA/perhaps Canada) uses the wire cross sectional area in square millimeters as the standard for wire sizing.


All outlets on one 15-amp circuit, need AC unit

We resolved the problem with the portable AC by purchasing a heavy-duty, 15-amp, 12-gauge extension cord and running it from the bathroom to the AC by the window. Since the bathroom is on its own circuit, the AC does not trip the breaker. A big thank you to those who suggested this in the comments.

Ironically, management has decided to replace our central air conditioner after I discovered mold in the unit, and their subsequent inspection also revealed it to have a serious Freon leak.


What is the purpose of these roof joists/braces in old house can they be removed

Those at least appear to be collar ties, a very important part of the roof system. Do not remove them. The squarish looking beam running perpendicular to the rafters appears to be a strong back or purlin. It helps unify the rafters so if one takes a load, it is distributed over many. Also an important component, they are held in place by the collar ties. everything would need to be rebuilt with a design by a structural engineer before any of this can be removed.


Is it ok to place a window AC unit in front of the window instead of hanging outside?

This should work, except there are some potential problems:

Usually a window A/C gets rid of the indoor heat by taking outside air and heating it, discharging it outside. Here, you're taking inside air and heating it (still discharging it outside). This will work, and it's exactly how single-hose indoor air conditioners work. However, it's less efficient (perhaps a lot less efficient).
The evaporator coil (that cools the indoor air) also condenses water, which has to be disposed of outside through a drain. It's quite possible that the normally-outside drain is now inside, and you're going to find an increasingly large puddle on your floor.
Your A/C will likely be noisier than it usually is (at least indoors, but that's where it counts).

So, it'll work, but there may be issues (the water one being the most immediately concerning).


What is the function of this controller and what does different settings do?

Doing random searches, I searched for 750 E1 E6 and found this datasheet.

http://www.winterspm.com/wp-content/uploads/Operating-Instructions-for-Cuirt-Seoige-Underfloor-Heating.pdf


They make a brush seal that you can screw onto your garage door.  This should accomplish what you want.


Can I float a tongue-and-grooved 1x12 pine floor over a concrete slab on grade?

You can float wood flooring installs over concrete. Moisture is your primary enemy here, and uneven concrete will also be evident in the finished result.

I would consider painting on a moisture barrier, and then using a moisture/sound/mold/mildew/pad atop that.

You should absolutely glue the joints. Set the first three courses straight and true and let the glue dry overnight. Afterwards, glue each joint and use blue painter's tape every few courses to hold them together.

An uneven floor will show up more if your wood isn't beveled, and you'll notice dips with "springiness" in the finished wood floor.


What is this insect that seems to hatch from OSB?

Looks like a type of Lacewing. Their larvae are predatory, mostly eating smaller insects like aphids and other insect larvae. If you are seeing the adults, it's likely that the larvae were pupating over the winter in a cozy spot between some boards. Although I have never heard of the larvae pupating in large groups, it could be that something about the structure was very attractive for the purpose. Since they eat aphids, most people consider them a beneficial species when they are in the garden. Maybe not quite the same if your house is full of them. Do you have any house plants with aphids?
Lacewings should not be harmful to the structure, but they could be feeding on something else that is. There is a species in the US that reportedly feeds exclusively on termites (destructive). There are other species that reportedly feed on spider egg sacks (nondestructive). With more than a 1000 species identified around the globe, and new ones still found from time to time, there is likely a species for every food source and likely a food source for your species either in or in very close proximity to your home. They are also attracted to lights, so if you leave lights on overnight they are likely to swarm around if conditions are favorable.


The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers.

The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the aluminum. You can feed the work harder to generate a thicker chip to carry the heat instead of rubbing/melting it off.

A little spray of WD40 on your path can help immensely.

The J Shape is supposed to be there.


Problem with a circuit that has only 2 outlets, one is fed from breaker and that one feeds a 2nd outlet, 2nd is not working anymore

If I read your question correctly you are getting 120 V hot to ground but not 120 V hot to neutral. That sounds like the neutral is broken or there is a poor connection of the ongoing neutral at the first or second receptacle.

You have a voltmeter. Does it have a resistance function (ohms)?  If so you can check to see if the connection is broken between the two receptacles.

Turn off the breaker. Plug in a long extension cord sufficient to reach from the front porch receptacle all the way to the back receptacle (either through the house or around).

Test the resistance between the neutral in the cord and the neutral in the back receptacle. The neutral is the longer slot.

EDIT

If the neutral path is interrupted, you should see a high resistance hundreds or thousands of ohms. You can also check the resistance between the hot in the plug and the hot in the receptacle (shorter slots). Since you report you are getting 120 V hot to gnd, you should see a low resistance there (0.1 ohm or so). Be sure the breaker is off before connecting the meter in the resistance mode to any hots.


Need help identifying materials needed to replace rotted and damaged wood

Underneath the drip-edge is the Fascia board. This is usually 1 x 4 inch stock (looking at your photo).Fascia board can be of any variety of wood or composite although Pine can be painted to protect it from the elements, Redwood and other weather resistant wood species can be used to increase longevity.
Below the Fascia is a Trim molding. This is sometimes used to close large gaps between framing and/or finish pieces or to add more detail to the structure.
Under the Trim is the siding (aluminum or vinyl). The vertical trim piece is missing. It is installed to cover the ends of the horizontal siding and neaten their appearance.
Beside the siding the doors weatherstripping is thrashed and should be repaired or replaced.


Help creating a half hot switch: 3 sets of wires

Some wires need to be marked here (on both ends)

The white wire that is with the blacks is not a neutral.  It has been assigned to be a hot, and as Code requires, it's being used for the "always-hot". As such, Code also requires it be marked with colored tape, paint or shrinktube, and I recommend black.  Like any marking, it should be done on both ends.

Now, I am a big fan of also marking the switched black wire "red", so it's clearer that it is the switched wire.  That's not mandatory, but it does make things a lot clearer in the box.

At this point, this gets super easy: just break the tab on the "hot" side of the recep, and connect one screw to red (switched-hot) and the other screw to black (always-hot).


Where to find glass 'support' requirements?

You still have too many unknowns to make such a calculation, e.g.

Wind load needs to be taken into account.
Snow load needs to be taken into account.

The above loads will totally depend on whereabouts in the world you are installing said glass.

For total peace of mind (and most likely to cover yourself legally) you really should hire the services of a a qualified structural engineer to perform such calculations.

Rule of thumb, back of a cigarette packet calculations tend to only get people into trouble further down the road.


What you ask, all depends on who made the latchset. Some make it where the screws are horizontal, others make it so they are vertical as you have.

I think Schlage and Kwikset are an example of this.

The same may be true for the lock. In some cases on some locksets, the part where the tang of the lock has two options to place it, on horizontal lock, the other, vertical lock. This may or may not be your case. This is more often seen with deadbolts with thumb turns.


This doesn't appear to be PEX pipe but a 1/2' or 3/8" compression inlet. Remove the valve by unscrewing the red part  and take it to your plumbing supply store so they can attempt to  match the compression face and threads. If the compression sleeve and nut come off the pipe easily, take them with you too.
Your valve stem is PVC so I'm curious as to why you want to replace the valve.


How to wire a switch with multiple lights

Here's the set up you need only need to run cable for 3rd light.


How long should I wait before using my electric oven after using WD-40 on the element mounting screws?

I did the same thing but with PB Blaster (it smells even worse than WD-40) for an outdoor kitchen. I just wiped it down with soapy water and ran the oven at 425 with the door open for about 10 minutes before putting any food in it. There really wasn't any smell or smoke because the petroleum distillates burn off very fast.


Ice maker dispenses multiple cubes (2-3 stuck together)

I've got the same fridge and same problem. 3 cubes webbed together constantly. Jam at least once a week. Easy to fix by jabbing them to break them up. Usually 50 cubes fall to the floor because the tray is either overflowed or the chute is full from jam.  I took cover off and appears to be no water level adjustment (like many videos show). Fridge is level. Best fridge, worst ice maker.
Edit: after finding another video, I did notice the water level adjustment screw on right edge (near center). Need a really short screw driver. I adjusted ½ turn clockwise. Will see tomorrow if that worked.


Is it OK to expose drain pipes on the exterior of your house?

I spoken with the San Francisco Building Code inspector and they said ABS exposed pipes are allowed as long as it is coated with UV protected paint since it’s located outdoors.  Also ABS used for DWV applications are only allowed for buildings up to 2-stories private and commercial. For mixed material couplers, I would need to find a coupler made specifically for steel to plastic.  Thanks @jim for telling me just to call the inspector.


First try to stop the nuisance tripping by cleaning out the dust from the fan motor and connection block.

You don't need to have the ceiling fan GFCI protected. You said you have a GFCI receptacle in bathroom so that satisfies the requirement.

You could change the connections of the wires to the GFCI receptacle in the garage so you don't use the load terminals. If this means that some outside receptacles are no longer GFCI protected, then you would have to replace the existing receptacles with GFCI ones.


What should I do with an unfinished parquet floor during a two-year rental?

I would find it hard to believe that someone would sand a wood floor but then neglect to put a protective finish on it (unless this is a very rustic building like a barn?). It's possible there's varnish there but it's not a glossy type. An unfinished wood floor seems like a negligent decision by the landlord and a bad investment on their part. I would check with him/her. I don't know where you live or what the landlord/tenant laws are, but in general at the end of your lease you are not required to leave the property in pristine condition: normal "wear and tear" (for which you are not responsible) would be considerably higher for an unfinished floor.

In any event, the best thing you can do for any wood floor (regardless of finish) is to keep it clean. If you let sand and dirt accumulate they will act like sandpaper and wear the surface away much more quickly.


garage door opener motor running constantly

At 20 years the controller probably has failed. But if he did not look at it I would question his diagnosis. There are things in some openers like belts that break, some direct drive couplers the coupler breaks or a sheer pin,  if the door did not make its turn off cog or sensor the motor would keep running trying to make it. The frequency band has changed over the years along with the safety eyes and even motor requirements have changed for energy efficiency so it is possible the newer model controller is not compatible but I would want to check the mechanical out. When you push the button can you hear the motor stop and reverse directions? If so I would say it is a broken drive component not the controller.


Transfer switch vs DPDT relay for a standby generator?

The input to the house should be an "INLET" not an Outlet.. The power cord from the generator has a connector (MALE Plug) to connect to the generator, and a FEMALE to connect to the house mounted inlet. The inlet should be connected to a DEDICATED receptacle inside the house to allow use of an extension cord to power individual loads OR to a manual double pole double (SPDT) throw transfer switch if feeding the main service panel. Properly installed and listed SPDT transfer switch prevents connection of the generator to the utility. Alternates using UL listed circuit breaker interlocks are also available. Reliance makes a 6 circuit panel that includes an inlet, and six interlocked pairs of circuit breakers that facilitate power transfer. Do it correctly, use a licensed electrician.


After 1 year, how much gap between members is acceptable in light framing?

I don’t see any pictures, but fastening boards together is based on: 1) shear loading, and 2) withdrawal loading.

1) Shear loading is based on a.) thickness of fastener, b.) lumber species, and c.) support of fastener.

Obviously, a.) the larger the fastener and b.) the denser the wood species, the more secure the joint connection. ALSO, c.) if the fastener is cantilevered, it’s shear strength is greatly reduced and the bending capacity of the fastener becomes a factor. Generally we consider the fastener’s shear “fully developed” if it’s not cantilevered more than 1 1/2 times the fastener’s (nail, screw, or bolt) diameter. When it exceeds the 1 1/2 diameter it can reduce the strength of the connection by as much as one-half.

If it exceeds the magic 1 1/2 diameter we then worry about withdrawal.

So, if the fastener has too big of gap or if the fastener is not fully penetrating into the adjacent member, then it is not “fully developed”.  However, seldom do we calculate the withdrawal of fasteners.

So, if you’re worried about boards separating and the joint is weakened for shear loading, you need to determine if the connection needs to be at or near “full developed” strength. I doubt it is, especially in residential construction, because residential construction is way over designed.

If this has occurred over a short period of time (less than a year) I’d recommend that it be “monitored “.  When we monitor a structural condition we install control points, such as strips of Formica (that won’t shrink or grow) with marks that can be photographed and documented. Keep a journal on a REGULAR basis, like monthly. Document outside temperature, inside temperature, humidity, etc.


How can I remove this dried drain cleaner from a kitchen sideboard?

Put on good rubber gloves, preferably ones that are made for handling hazardous chemicals, and safety goggles.
Make a thick paste with a cup of baking soda and cold water and spread it over the area to neutralize the sulfuric acid.  Even though it has dried it is still active.  Let the paste sit for 10-15 minutes before touching it.  You may want to open a nearby window as this can release a fair amount of CO2.

Using a 2 inch or larger putty knife, carefully scrape away part of the baking soda to reveal the counter.  Next carefully scrape at the edges of the spill.  Keep doing this until all of the baking soda is gone.

I can't tell from the picture if your counter top is a type of laminate or granite.  If it is laminate you may find that the "cement-like material" is actually your counter top and the acid has melted it.  If it is granite you may need to have the counter professionally polished to get rid of the stain.

Best of luck


Trying to switch 2 prong socket to 3 prong socket

Guatemala uses the same power standards as the USA.  Anyone can do anything, but I'd expect to see US style wiring colors, and not old UK style.  In the US:

Ground = green or bare  (green screw)
Neutral = white or gray (silver screw)
Hot = any other color (brass screw)

Ever buy a new smart phone and the buttons and headphone jack are in totally different positions? Electrical outlets are like that too, every manufacturer puts the screws in different positions.  A common newbie mistake is plugging wires into the new socket based on their position on the old.  Nope, you're looking at the wrong thing. Look at the color of the screw terminals.

Now you know how to identify and move wires from an old outlet to a new one.

If you are using the backstab/wire-jab connections, don't, even if the last guy did.  If they are backstabs that must be tightened by turning the nearest screw, those are OK.

Looking at wires coming up to the outlet matters too.  Look at what else is happening inside the box itself.  Also look at how the wires coming into the box are grouped.

Only one green/ground is normal, as all the grounds areenormally spliced together inside the box, with a lone pigtail coming out to the outlet.   Two whites but only one black is unusual.  Find out what's going on there.  It could be that someone is abusing a bare wire as a neutral.

If you want us to help get to the bottom of it, tell us the map of how the wires enter the box, and in what groups, and any splices occurring inside the box.


Screw type for screwing MDF onto plaster/plasterboard

Given:

  The existing wall is plasterboard and plaster (fair condition at best)

I would lean heavily in the direction of stripping to the studs and then attaching the MDF to the studs, but that's making the assumption that the MDF is of some reasonable thickness (12mm / 1/2 inch or more.)

Fix anything that needs fixing in the wall cavities while you are at it (insulation, wiring, plumbing, etc.)

Sheeting over poor-quality plaster/drywall reveals in great detail exactly how non-flat the substrate is, and eats space in the room. Despite the brief mess, starting fresh may be faster overall (as you are not compensating for all those humps and hollows), and result in a better job.


Is it feasible/worth it to recover an alarm system keypad that is unreliable?

These types of keypads have a rubber membrane with the buttons on one side and conductive material on the other placed above a circuit board with contacts.  Crud or oxidation can build up on the back side of the buttons or on the circuit board and cleaning it can often help and get you some more years of use out of it.

Generally they are easy to disassemble and you can clean the back side of the buttons gently with a damp cloth and the circuit board with some compressed air or some circuit board cleaner.

As far as taking it off, you will probably need to take it off the wall first, then find the screws that hold it together or the latches that hold the case halves together.


I have used three things in the past:

Toilet cleaning bleach gel every other month or so.
Spray bleach cleaner occasionally.
Bleach/baking soda paste, with diluted bleach spray every few hours to keep moist.  Paint on with a cheap paintbrush as the bleach will destroy the bristles.

Once you have given up hope, use the third option and cover the paste with saran wrap to keep it from drying out.  Overnight should save it.