Help installing a ceiling pendant light fixture

Was this a used fixture, because it doesn't sound like it would meet UL approval for new fixtures if there is no way to identify which wire should be connected to hot or to neutral.  Is there any ribbing or texture on one wire?  If so, that is likely the neutral.

I'm assuming your fixture just uses standard light bulbs.  From an electrical viewpoint of a standard incandescent bulb, it doesn't matter which way the current flows -- but it might matter for led or cfl bulbs (cfl = compact fluorescent).  However, from a SAFETY perspective, the polarity does matter (polarity is which contact on the light bulb socket is hot and which is neutral).  The uninsulated wire is the ground, which is always connected to the ground (bare wire) in the box.

I strongly recommend you identify which of the insulated wires (plastic covered) should be connected to the hot, and which to the neutral.  An easy way to do this is to take your volt/ohmmeter, touch one lead to one of the insulated wires and the other lead to the light bulb socket.  If you get zero resistance (the same as touching the two leads together) on the collar (side) of the socket, then that wire is the neutral (white).  If you get zero resistance when touching the button (bottom of the socket), then that is the hot.  Wrap a bit of black electrical tape around the hot wire.

Now you can install your fixture correctly, connecting the wires using the coding that you identified: white-white, black-black, bare wire-bare wire.  Use wire nuts to connect the wires.  The packaging on the wire nuts tell you what quantities of what size wires they are approved for use with.

Strip and straighten 1/2" to 5/8" of each wire to be joined.
Hold the wires together, straight and parallel.
Put a wire nut over the wires, covering all the stripped wire, and twist clockwise. Turn until the wires outside the connector start to twist.
Test the connection by holding the wire nut with one hand and tug on each of the wires with the other hand.  The wires should be firmly connected and not slip out of the wire nut.

Forgot to add: it's unlikely this is aluminum wiring.  Could it be stranded wire that is soldered on the end?  If it is aluminum wire, then you need to use fasteners approved for use with aluminum.


What is the proper personal protective equipment and procedures for removing mouse nesting that may contain Hantavirus?

Generally, house mice don't carry hantavirus.  However, it sounds like your property may be semi-rural, so there might be deer mice, which may carry it.

I found this Center for Disease Control PDF.  Interestingly enough, it doesn't talk about respiratory protection at all.  It seems that all you need to do is spray down the old nests/etc. with disinfectant or a bleach/water solution and bag it.

While I don't claim to be more knowledgeable on the subject than the CDC, I would certainly wear a mask.

Summary from PDF for posterity:

How to clean out cabins, sheds,
barns, or other outbuildings:

Open all doors and windows. Leave them
open for 30 minutes before cleaning.
Wear rubber or plastic gloves.
Clean up all rodent urine, droppings,
nests, or dead mice or
rats by using a
disinfectant or a
mixture of bleach and
water.
Air out cabins
Mop floors or spray dirt floors with a
disinfectant or mixture of bleach and
water.

Clean countertops, cabinets, and
drawers with a disinfectant or a
mixture of bleach and water.

Steam clean, shampoo, or spray
upholstered furniture with a detergent,
disinfectant, or a mixture of bleach and
water.


Can you remove a tin roof and install insulation and re-attach the tin roof?

What they are suggesting is done in metal buildings in the USA, the insulation is wrapped in a type of plastic sheeting on all sides, it is made that way. It is also in large rolls and very wide, maybe 3-4ft?

My biggest concern would be the distortion of the metal when it comes to removing it. If the roof is attached with screws, you have a small chance of salvaging the roofing. If the roof is fastened with nails, the metal will surely be distorted. The fasteners to reattach the roofing, which should be screws with neoprene washers, rely on a flat surface, if it is a newer system. The refastening may not take well if care is not taken on the removal. Of all the fasteners in any given roof it will only take one to create  leak, with the insulation in place and it's plastic layer, it would be hard to tell where a leak may really be or if any evidence is visible until it is too late. I refer to wet, or rotted framing after a time.

If it is the older system where the nails are driven through the standing rib, and the nail has a lead coating to conform and seal the hole from the nail,, DO NOT let them remove it unless a new roof goes back down. It may be better to insulate from the underside, even if it may be finished.

This is a sample of what I was going to suggest, It may cost more overall, but it is the metal roof and insulation combined. It will not compress like the fiberglass will and give a higher R rating


How can I close and seal an abandoned downspout opening?

I have covered over holes similar to this using thin aluminum sheet (and copper on copper gutters) bent to shape to fit the inside of the gutter and then pop riveted in place (after applying a little low modulus silicone sealant around the hole on the inside and along the outer edges of the repair section to stop water going in between.

It does of course squeeze out some sealant during the riveting process so you might need to use a paintable sealant if you're painting the guttering outside. The ones I've done have not been visible from the ground, luckily enough.

It's also possible to put the repair sheet on the outside of the guttering if you're careful, which may look neater to the eye.


I wouldn't worry about mildew resistance primer. Since the walls are already primed, what I would do is buy a semi-gloss latex paint. The semi-gloss will resist the water penetrating it and you shouldn't have to worry about mildew.


What type of pipe is this

Just plain 15mm plastic pipe for domestic water supplies. The elbow fitting looks like John Guest Speedfit, so the pipe may have been selected to match but I believe everything is pretty compatible nowadays.

See How to remove this plastic pipe elbow (scroll down for Speedfit)

  should the elbows be replaced, and if so with what / how?

I would replace the elbow and the short vertical section of pipe. Use the same type of connectors (for consistency, no other reason). I'd check the condition of the pipe stub from the wall and clean it up if necessary.

See question linked above for how to remove elbow. Obviously you have to turn off the main stopcock and have some old towels or equivalent to soak up spillage. You may need to bung the loft tank ("attic" for leftpondians though you generally don't have this kind of arrangement AFAIK) or turn off a valve in the cold supply from the loft (otherwise you have to tie up the float valve that fills the tank and then drain the main loft tank which takes ages through a bath tap for example)

  How can I try to avoid twisting it in the future when I do this sort of work?

I usually clamp a mole-wrench (leftpondian: vise-grip) onto the body of the service valve and hold that firmly immobile with one hand while using a spanner in the other hand to loosen the nut at the top. Some service valve have flats on the body for this purpose but many don't. Take care not to crush the valve (I've never done this but it might be possible with a large mole-wrench and excessive enthusiasm)


Tiling Sequence: Ceiling, Walls, Floor - Where to Start?

I agree with Ahmad G Badr & I hope this is a shower alcove. Sorry, I hate tile most anywhere. You want to minimize the view of corner seams or grout lines since they crack first & are usually where cut tiles (sharp instead of pillowed or rounded edges) are placed.

Side walls should butt over the back wall & floor & ceiling should butt over all walls. This is also hugely beneficial if the shower pan ever needs to be replaced. The floor should always be done last to eliminate the possibility of damage.


Exterior lighting: Is a round waterproof lampholder ACTUALLY compatible with a rectangular housing?

The product description on Amazon is pulled directly from the manufacturer's data sheet (the link is an excerpt from a catalog, scroll down two pages for the light fixtures you bought), so I think you can trust it.

Another assurance that you'll be OK: I see from that catalog that the base of the light fixture is 4 1/8" in diameter, which is the same as the outside dimension of the diagonal of a single gang box (at least the one I picked out of my big box of electrical goodies :).  When you open the packaging, you should see a rectangular pattern in the molding on the back where the electrical box will be mounted.


What could cause reoccurring leaks in a hot water pipe?

It depends on where the actual leaks are. If the leaks are at the solder joint, then this would indicate poor workmanship from the installer. If the pipes themselves are developing pinholes, then you could have gotten a bad batch of copper pipe that had impurities in it. Recycled copper used for pipes can have impurities in them which can lead to pinhole leaks. I have heard that this was a common problem for a while. I'm not sure if it has been resolved yet.


At this stage you can only try to keep it from getting worse.  heaving is caused by the freeze thaw cycle.  You can either keep the area warm or keep it dry.  Often neither is practical.

Keeping it dry requires figuring out how water gets to the area below the concrete and stopping that flow.  Water is very clever, and may be moving in after getting in elsewhere, but my first guess is the crack between the curb and the garage slab, and the one between the asphalt and the kerb.  Backer rod and silicon grout come to mind.

At the core you have a bad installation.  The curb has heaved, but not the slab.  Fixing it is going to be expensive.  Unless there are signs of problems elsewhere, I'd be tempted to live with it.  Check the entire garage foundation to see if there are gaps opening anywhere else.

You can do a cosmetic repair.  Rent a jack hammer to take off the protruding bits and about 1/2 to 3/4" more, do surface prep, and use a concrete patching compound to make it flush again.  Finish by sealing the cracks with a combination of backer rod.  A grout seal will accommodate something like half its width in moving.  E.g., if you have 1/4" wide bead of grout, the two surfaces can shift something like 1/8" before the seal breaks.  So a wide seal will help you here.  Take this into account when you do the patch.  You may want so preserve space for this.

Also, save a bunch of chips you removed from the prep.  You can use that on top of the ground to partially colour match the floor.


This is a switch loop setup

What we see here is an old-style switch loop.  While the three white wires you see bundled together at the fan box are indeed neutral, the white wire from the switch isn't one of them -- it instead gets bundled in with the always-hot wires in the fan box to provide power to the switch.  The black wire from the switch then carries power back to become the black wire going to the fan.

So, presuming you've checked to make sure the box can take the load:

Wire white on the fan to the bundle of white wires.
Wire black and blue on the fan to the lone black wire.
Nut off the grounds on the fan
Button it all up and turn the power back on
Enjoy your new fan


The trouble with back-feeding portable generator power through any of those welding or RV plugs while the transfer switch is set to generator position is the same problem with relying on turning off the main breaker before doing the same: it's manual, not interlocked, and sooner or later somebody is going to get it wrong.
Instead, daisy-chain another transfer switch. It could be another RTS series switch if you're so inclined, but the transfer switch could also be as simple and inexpensive as a main-breaker type panel with a generator interlock kit for a branch breaker.
I gather you'll want to keep the automatic switch-over for the 22 kW generator working and add a manual alternative in case the 22 kW breaks down or you just decide not to use it. To do that, add a 150A or 200A main-breaker panel. Wire the main breaker to the 22 kW generator. Add a branch breaker in the 100A-150A range and wire that to the "generator input" connection of the existing transfer switch. Finally, add a 70-100A branch breaker in the designated "generator backfeed" location of the panel and wire this to an inlet socket.
With the above arrangement there are two operating modes. Either the main breaker is on, allowing 22 kW generator to connect to RTS input, or else the generator interlock is activated so that the inlet for the portable generator is connected to the RTS input.


How can I trim around flexible tubing coming through drywall?

Run the conduit itself through the drywall so that you can secure it to something such as a wall stud, using a pipe clamp. Use a plumbing escutcheon to close off the hole. I'd recommend caulking around the conduit at the drywall intersection to prevent the drywall from fraying and leaving dust particles behind.


Should there be cold air returns in my bathrooms?

Bathrooms never have returns. You wouldn't want humidity and odor distributed throughout your house. Bathrooms in modern homes may have exhaust vents that route through a heat exchanger. This still results in the air being vented to the exterior though.

Also, it used to be common for bedrooms to have heat supplies but no cold air returns. There may have been a central return in the hallway or other common area.


Yes, a smart 3-way switch can be installed.I have used this 3-way switch in the past. Additionally, with the new smart switches, in general, the use for 3-way IMHO is becoming obsolete. Most link to your smart home hub (i.e. Alexa Echo or Google Home) and you simply have to tell it to turn on or off.

If you don't want a 3-way you could also get this alternative.


4 ton air handler with 3.5 ton air conditioner

The 4 ton rating is a nominal rating indicating that it is designed to be used on an A/C systems up to 4 tons. It has nothing to do with what you are assuming  is excessive electrical consumption.


Should the entire element on my burner on top of electric stove turn red when turned on?

It might or might not be an issue, depending on what is actually happening and element type.

For "normal" coil elements, if one spot on the element gets red significantly earlier than the rest of the element, it's time to replace the element before it burns out and starts arcing.

A slightly uneven redness is not a problem. As such, pictures would be helpful.


Figure out if I have gas or electric heating

Actually, the old thermostat DOES have a "gas/electric heat" jumper.   It's labeled "JP2" and the "HG" setting is for gas.  The "HE" setting is for electric.   It appears to be the exact same thing, just poorly labeled.

Look closely (don't touch) and its setting should be apparent.

A Google search revealed the manual in PDF  as the #1 result and section 2.4 discusses the JP2 jumper.

P.S. Another way to find out if you have electric heat is go to your electric service panel and look at the labels on the breakers.  For electric heat, it would be one of the large (double-wide) breakers.  Turn the breaker off and see if your heat still works.  The thermostat should continue to work, because it is fed from a 120V circuit (which uses a single-wide breaker).

If the breakers are not labeled, you know electric heat must be a double-breaker.  You can find it by trial and error.  Generally it won't do any harm to turn a double-breaker off.  They control a single device: air conditioner, water heater, and the like.  That device will stop working and that is all. I would label what you can.

(now in older homes or ones with well-wired outbuildings, sometimes a double breaker actually feeds a sub-panel, which has many other things running off it.  I don't see that as likely in a new-build California home.)


How to improve the acoustics in my living room?

The quality of speakers in your TV are quite limited because flat-screen TV's don't have enough room for proper speaker cabinets. As other answers suggest, the already reduced-quality sound is bouncing off the wall, which further reduces the quality by creating an echo.

Definitely invest in some forward-facing speakers at a minimum. You may not have the room for a surround system, but strongly consider a center channel speaker because dialog will be more easily understood. Many companies sell kits that include an amplifier and speakers, up to and including surround systems. You can find very good quality in a relatively small size, so you shouldn't need to spend more than a couple hundred dollars at the most.

Next, the hard surface floor is going to reflect sound much more than a carpet or rug. Given that you're renting, you should probably get an area rug to cover the majority of the floor.

After solving these two problems, if you continue to dislike the sound quality, you should try to cancel echo from the walls. Since you don't want to hang anything directly on the wall, you might want to try the folding screens idea as suggested in a comment. Some fabric such as drapes can be a great help in softening the acoustic profile of the room, so you might want to additionally add drapes or fabric to decorate but also cancel some echo.

Finally, if your furniture has hard surfaces and is at right angles to the room, try turning things a bit so that there are fewer parallel surfaces. It could help to scatter the sound a bit and provide a slightly different acoustic profile.

But definitely fix the speakers first.


How to properly install irrigation system/garden faucet

Generally you want the backflow as close to the supply as possible.  So right here might be a good choice:


Clarifying the in-between rafters insulation

With two much insulation the vents can not do there job making sure there is an air flow path from the soffets to the ridge / ventilators needs to be the first repair / change. Even with good ventilation with cold temps you have may have issues that require Ice & snow melting heat tape. I used heat tape on my home and under some gutters to prevent ice dams. It sounds like. You need to clear some insulation to allow the vents to work.  Then if the ice dams continue heat tape will be needed.  Both poor ventilation and ice dams can create damp and or wet areas you describe, I would add the heat tape in the ice dam area this summer but that can cost a bit to have a circuit installed and the tape put up. Moving insulation can be a nasty job but dosent cost and may do the job If rafters are wet at locations other than the ice dam.


Connecting a thermostat to air handler and cast iron boiler

If you originally had 4 thermostats, each controlling 1 zone, then the normal way for wiring was that a thermostat opened and closed each zone valve and when the zone valve opened an end switch made and allowed the boiler to fire. Zone valves can be either 2 wire or 3 wire hook-up. Most are 2 wire but there are some 3 wire available. AS I said, that is the normal way. How yours were hooked up is anybodies guess. Now for the air-conditioning system; one of the thermostats could control the A/C, or there is a separate thermostat for that. Does the air handler have a hot water coil mounted in it or is it just for air-conditioning? Check each thermostat you removed and determine how many wires were hooked to each thermostat. You may have to trace all the wiring to see where the wiring went and how the connections were made. I would suggest that you consult an HVAC company in your area that has a good reputation to help in case this is above your area of expertise


Not to be a kill joy but this plug and receptacle is the old style that no longer meets code for a residential clothes dryer connection.  It does not provide independent means for ground.  I don't recommend cutting anything to 'make it work'. Consider a new four wire circuit cable with new approved matching plug and receptacle.


A new thermostat won't help when the temperature sensor itself is dead or corroded.
What most likely happened is that you turned the thermostat so low that whatever signal was coming from the broken sensor triggered the thermostat to turn on.  But since that signal never changed, the thermostat never "knew" that the setpoint had been reached, so the water continued to heat well past the safety limit.
This is bad for a couple reasons:  there should be a high-temp safety cutoff somewhere (I can't vouch for your particular unit) which, if it exists, is also failing.


Is installing an egress window in a basement a do it yourself job?

Before going through the trouble of an egress window, make sure the water problem is tackled. That, itself, can be a huge chore.

And egress window CAN be DIY, but it's going to be a lot of messy work. You need to move a large chunk of soil, cut concrete, install a well, and given the water issues, likely a dry well or drain system of some sort.

But yes, it can be DIY. I would worry about bowed walls, however. If the foundation walls are bowed inward, that can be a sign of huge water issues, as well as structurally compromised foundation walls. Before you dig around the foundation, you may want to consult with a structural engineer first.


Installing an air gap in a concrete countertop

To install faucets or air gaps in thick countertops, simply bore a wide hole (2 1/2 - 3 inches) from the bottom of the countertop halfway through or so.  In your case, they'd have to bore a wide hole at least 3/4 inches up from the bottom.  The hole just needs to be wide enough to provide room to secure the nut.

In concrete countertops, the forms are made with holes pre-cast wide at the bottom and narrow at the top.


What are the unused 240V breakers in my panel for?

2 x 50A for furnace implies electric heat. (If it was a heat pump, that would be combined with the 2 x 40A AC). That all points to "everything electric" because in most places if you have gas available then you use that for heat rather than electric. Plus "2x" indicates this is a large house. While you have a gas water heater now, my hunch is that your house originally had electric water heater(s) and, due to the size of the house, was wired up for 3 water heaters. That also fits with the (typical, but not universal) slower recovery time for residential electric water heaters compared to gas. One large gas water heater could easily produce as much hot water (between faster recovery and larger capacity) as 2 electric water heaters. Then at some point (my parents did this years ago, but they added gas heat at the same time), someone got gas piped into the house and replaced the electric water heaters with gas.


Range plug prongs are slightly exposed - Is that dangerous?

Theoretically, yes, a risk exists -- if you drop a knife or baking tray into that area, for example.

And frankly, if the plug won't go all the way in I'm worried about whether something else is goung on that might be a greater risk.

It won't kill you tomorrow. I'd still suggest getting it fixed.


When wiring two circuits through the same conduit, what wire coloring is required?

As far as code goes, I think you're okay with your approaches since you've tagged hots appropriately.

Personally, I think mixing cable with individual wires is sloppy. I'm going to assume that 12 AWG is the correct size for the pump, but you should check before actually putting in 12 AWG. I would do one of two things:

Run using NM cable:

A 12/2 wire for the 240V pump circuit: either black/red, or black/white tagged as hot
A 14/2 wire for the 120V alarm circuit
Ground in both cables is connected

Or run individual wires:

2 12AWG's (black/red) for the pump circuit
1 12AWG or 10AWG ground (bare, or green)
1 14AWG white neutral (alarm circuit)
1 14AWG other color (blue is often the 4th color used) hot for the alarm circuit

NM wire is usually easier to find, and you may even have some already (if not, having spare 14/2 available is never bad). For individual wires you often have to buy a spool of each color which makes going that way for one project more expensive, though you may be able to buy by-the-foot.

In either scenario, labelling everything at both ends is important.


How can I use a 15A momentary switch (switches) to replace my multi-button wall-mount garage door opener?

You may be overthinking this.

For controlling the switched-with-door fluorescent/LED lights, the opener already has a sophisticated way to do that which works with the remote. Start at the opener itself.  Screw a NEMA 1 to Edison adapter into the lamp socket. From there, 2-prong plug and cord up to metal conduit, where you either have an inlet or strain relief. From there, the conduit goes to each lamp location. You also run a ground wire to a viable grounding point since the source has no ground.

If you don't like that plan, consider the GE RR7 relay, which takes a 24V momentary pulse to throw the lights on or off.  It is specifically made and listed for lighting.   However if that is not the same voltage your garage door opener runs on, you will need more relays.

For the garage door opener buttons, contact the factory.   Since garage door buttons are low voltage wiring, you are free to improvise.  Also if you count your buttons and there are one more wires than buttons, it is not using resistance etc.


How to mount ceramic tiles in a wrought iron frame?

If you decide to glue it, I would consider using a silicone adhesive, as it will flex as the weather changes. An adhesive that is too rigid could cause issues.


My wife and daughter love those scented wax things, we have had several spills on carpet, I found making a dam around the area and filling with hot water the wax melted and floated to the surface a few seconds later the water was cool enough the wax became solid again then we used a dry towel to soak up the excess moisture. The water was not boiling hot just above the melting point of the wax. I figured out the temp needed by floating the plastic container that the cubes came in a pan of water on the stove once the wax melted I pulled the holder out let the water get a little warmer then filled my little dam (a hand towel) so the water was above the fibers. In 1 room the carpet backing is plastic and I was worried the hot water might damage the backing but it was fine, the second room this has happened in is wool carpet and it worked even better on that.


Finishing technique for gaps between the wall and the live wood we installed that shrunk

Most common solution would simply be caulk with a color matching the wood, not the wall.
Any sanding or harsh chemicals will damage the existing finish.
If you can apply without masking, you avoid risk of peeling off either finish. Choose a product for water cleanup if you doubt your skill.
Apply sparingly usually works best, you want people's eyes to ignore the gap not see a bold stripe of dissimilar material. Sometimes slightly recessing the caulking works well to trick the eye into seeing less depth. Start their and use it as backer if you need to bring it flush with the surface.
Backer rod helps in many significant ways, but carpenters usually omit.
Touch up those ends before you caulk, the unfinished wood draws attention.


Probably a leak at the flapper/flush valve in the bottom of the tank. With age the flapper can get stiff, cracked, dirty, etc and allows water to leak into the bowl.

Semi-universal-fit repair parts are available in most plumbing or home centers. Frequently it's sufficient to replace only the flapper, but sometimes the valve seat has to be replaced too. Flapper change is easy; it takes a couple minutes to make sense of the instructions and one minute to do the work.


What is the cause for low voltage when the breaker is off?

Your thoughts about induced voltage is correct when wires are run in parallel the field created on the live wires induces voltages on the conductors of the other circuits (this is how transformers work). Non contact meters read the field voltage and most hand held meters are high impedance so they will also show voltages. A low impedance or low Z meter creates enough of a load to eliminate the "phantom voltages" as many people call them. The voltages you are reading are quite low and nothing to be concerned about.


Can I swap my natural gas water heater for an electric model in my hydronic system?

The revolution you're talking about won't be powered by well-wishes or symbolic purchases. That's actually worse than nothing, because it results in failed installations, wasting resources and disillusioning people about the new technologies.
No, it requires actual knowledge and skillful application of craft.
Start by identifying the equipment you do have
You don't have a water heater.  You have a hydronic system that is gas-fired, and that system both heats the house and heats your water.  Hydronic systems are able to use radiators or baseboard water-fed heaters.   However it also might have an air handling system which circulates heated/cooled air throughout the house.  Since hydronic systems cannot provide air conditioning, the house must have a separate A/C approach, and that would need air handling because air conditioning doesn't work with radiators.
So, status quo ante, you have three systems that either are interconnected, or will be:

Water heating
House heat
House air conditioning

So far, your proposal is to rip out only the water heater, and convert it to resistive electric heating.  That will leave a mish-mash of scattered tech behind, including 2/3 of a gas hydronic system and That 70's air conditioner. And I'm guessing that proposal is because that's the only thing you know so far.
The math on resistive electric heating
OK, so let's take a look at that water heating requirement and do some math.  A "BTU" is the scientific unit for the energy it takes to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree F.  (the output of various furnaces and the like are called "BTUs" but are actually BTU/hour).
Suppose our recovery rate is 1 gallon per hour (bear with me).  1 gallon of water weighs 8.33 pounds.  Taking cool 50F water off the street and raising it to a bacteria-safe 140F requires 90 degrees rise.  Well, 8.33 x 90 is 750 BTU.  1 watt-hour is 3.41 BTUs.  So 1 gallon per hour needs 220 watt-hours per hour... or more simply: 1 gallon per hour recovery needs 220 watts.
25 gallons per hour recovery needs 220 x 25 == 5500 watts. Which happens to be exactly the watt rating of your common everyday electric water heater.   It works out to 23 amps.   (which is derated 125% to 28.75A, and that just fits on a 30A breaker.  Imagine that.)
Now, your oddly specific 116.36 GPH recovery rate, you need 25,600 watts, or 106.66 amps.  Derated, that takes 133.33 amps, leaving little remaining room on a 200A service. Realistically, that won't fit on a 200A service with your other stuff. You'll need a "Class 320" 400A service to power this and your other electric ambitions, which is real money.  By the way, the hydronic system goes in the trash in this scenario.  Electric can provide heat directly in the same locations as the radiators.
But even so, this is yesterday's news. And you will not like the electric bill if you do it this way.
Method 1: New style heat pumps
Air conditioning is the wildcard here.  What's maddening about North American practice is air conditioning systems is almost a heat pump - which is an essential aspect of the next-gen tech that you want.
This is a superb explainer, and you have to watch it. OK?.
I bet you didn't know air conditioners only needed one more valve to do that trick.
Modern heat pumps are stupidly more efficient than classic air conditioners, and that too is why they're part of the solution.  Heat pumps let you tick two boxes: a) heating and b) air conditioning.
The usual heat pump involves using air handling (not radiators) because the air conditioning mode requires air handling.
That crosses off hydronic systems, but we can still score a win with water heating, because They make "heat pump" water heaters too.  The normal heat pump water heater takes heat from the utility room, so you'll need to heat that room to effectively put that heat into the water.
Or method 2: a ground sourced heat pump
This is a special type of heat pump that eliminates the big evaporator/condenser unit outside... as well as most of its noise.  It is not interchanging heat with the fickle ambient air... but rather, the more stable earth temperature.
Here is an explainer on that.
This happens one of two ways: Either you use a well to pump water out of the earth (and return it some distance away via another well)... or you bury a bunch of coolant loops and run antifreeze through them.
This works more efficiently because the ground source is cooler in summer and warmer in winter than the ambient air.
...And keep your hydronic system
They make heat pumps specifically for hydronic systems.   You can get ones which interchange with ambient air, or that interchange with a ground source.
So, you replace the "gas boiler" component with a heat pump unit, and nothing else changes.
A hydronic, ground-sourced system is the "best of all worlds (but one)" system.  It is the only system that allows the hot water heater to source energy externally.
What's more, because ground-sourced systems are efficient year-round, there simply is no need for expensive resistive "emergency heat", and that means you don't need 400A electrical service.
However, again, you need an air handler to make air conditioning work.
They solved that problem
Older heat pumps had a problem: they could not work in the very cold, and so they required those expensive resistive "toaster heaters" to heat the house during those times. A friend in the northern US has an older heat pump system that used 30A for the heat pump, *but 140A for the "emergency heat" resistive heating. Yikes! That reason alone forced my friend into 400A service.   (you may recall this happened in Texas; all those heat pump systems calling for emergency heat made it impossible for the electric grid to recover.)
Newer heat pumps solve this one of two ways:

Ground-sourcing, where the ground is always temperate; or
A much wider operating range, due to better refrigerant choices, and better electronic controls, which make it easy to have a a "self-defrosting" cycle.


In a main service panel; where the grounded (neutral) is bonded, you can land the grounded (neutral) conductor at either bus bar.

In a panel where the grounded (neutral) and grounding bus bars are separate, you can only land a grounded (neutral) conductor on the grounded (neutral) bus bar.  In this case, you'll either have to install a grounded (neutral) bar on each side of the panel, or route all the grounded (neutral) conductors to the same bar.


How can I diagnose and resolve noises from my ceiling fan?

As it turns out I was not looking in the right place. The problem was the light fixture was not screwed in tightly. After tightening all the blades I tried the fixture and the noises are gone.


What is causing my gas water heater to make a high pitched noise?

It sounds like either a dirty pilot light or your the flame may be getting into your air venturi. I would have the burner pulled and clean both the pilot burner and main burner including venturi tube.


Because code varies by region, it's difficult to say yes or no to this.

Typically you only really need ventilation to the outside if you have a gas range.  Often the hoods on top of electric cook tops just recirculate the air inside and don't actually vent outside.  That being said, the often have a carbon filter which is handy for removing odors.  They also usually have a light on them which is also handy for cooking.


How do I replace the cartridge on a Delta faucet?

First of all the model that you mentioned does not correspond to the picture that you have on there unless it is a much older model it does however fall under similar faucets that I have worked on myself. The cap you mentioned that you can't get off does have to come off. Right there where the grooves are there is a joint that unscrews that cap. Yours has just gotten so tight you can't get it by hand. A pair of channel lock pliers and a rag to try to prevent any marring if possible should do the trick. After you get that off there will be a little grey or white plastic cover with an odd shaped hole in it that that brass stem comes through. That cap comes off and then that stem is attached to a metal or plastic ball that has holes and or slots in it. It just rests in that . You must remove that plastic cap and then you will see two or three holes with rubber cups and springs in them. Remove the cups and the springs with needle nose pliers. You will have to take all the parts with you just removed to the hardware store and they will have Delta parts or similar replacement parts made by other companies that will fit your faucet. Just match them up to what you have removed from your faucet and take them back home and put them in reverse order and you should be good to go of course you have to turn off the water to that faucet which usually means you have to turn off the water to the house. Oh yes and by the way if you do have to mark up the original chrome cover with the grooves on it in your picture with the pliers getting it off a replacement usually comes in one of the kits that you will be buying. Good news is it is pretty simple once you get that super tight cap off.


How much space is needed for an outlet between window frame and counter top?

Single gang standard (smallest) wall plate is 2-3/4 inches. That would be with the outlet "sideways", since you're looking for minimum height.


What is involved when replacing wood paneling with drywall?

Option 3 is the sanest IMHO. You can get a bucket of drywall mud for $15 and do a "skim coat" over the panels to create a flat surface. No need to sand first; this stuff will stick to anything! Once the mud is dry, you can sand it to get a smooth look, or texture it. Texturing can be done with cans of spray-on texture you get at big box stores, or using a texture sprayer gun. A pro will be able to do the texture part much better than a novice, so if you want a textured wall, I recommend hiring that part out for $100 or so. With the right equipment and an operator of moderate skill, it's a 30 minute job. If you've already got an air compressor, you can have a go yourself with a sprayer attachment that has a hopper.

But whatever you do, match the texture or lack thereof to any drywall that abuts the paneled wall. Nothing screams "I used to be wood paneling!!!!!" like strange, awkward texture on a few walls that, upon further investigation, have more give to them when pushed on.

This is the approach I took on my wood paneled walls and today you'd never know the difference.


I would open it up at the switch-box end if I were you

What I would do if I were in your shoes is open up the switch box for the switch controlling this fan to see if an extra conductor is present in the cable from the fan to the switch.  If so, then you can use a double switch to have separate wall switches for the light and fan.  If not, then you're stuck using the pull chains, a fan remote, or a specialized controller that lets you control the light and fan from a single wall device.


How can I connect a faucet adapter to a non-standard faucet without leaks?

Take the aerator from your faucet and the adapter from your dishwasher to a plumbing supply store. They will have a bigger selection of sizes. It is possible you have an unusual faucet that HomeDepot doesn't carry. Do not use superglue. If you do anything to alter the fixture you could be responsible for replaceing it when you leave.


How Can Wind Chimes Be Mounted On The Second Story?

Open window of your room.
Remove screen.
Lean out (carefully) and screw eyebolt to bottom of window frame.  Something like this.

Bottom of window frame because A: easier and B: chime will not hit window in strong wind.

Attach chime to eyebolt with carabiner, or chain, or something else appropriate for a site exposed to weather.

If the chime annoys you or your new roommate or you want to swap it out for better chime, or you need to clean it out, it will be easy to get to without ladder or going on roof.


Can I add additional lighting to a standard motion security light?

The wattage limit of most fixtures is such due to heat concerns. It's difficult to say how much current the sensor circuitry will handle. You're safe up to the limit on the sticker, though.

Otherwise, swap out your fixture for a standalone sensor and abide by its stated limitations.


Is AFCI a requirement outside the United States?

NEC 2017 requires AFCI in a number of places, unless the state law that adopts NEC 2017 or a local ordinance waives that requirement.

If they don't have a functioning government, then it'll be pretty hard for them to waive an AFCI requirement.  So yeah, it would be required most places.

There's a little more armwaving going on here, but it boils down to "the customer is always right".  Basically the AHJ is the customer.


LED TV connected to CCTV DVR through HDMI cable is causing a problem

Something is seriously mis-wired.

There are so many things it could be that there is no way to determine that from here.

You should call an experienced electrician to check out the wiring in your house before something catches fire and someone gets hurt.


Is 12 cu. in. LB PVC Conduit large enough to splice 12/2 run?

You don't need a clamp allowance because there are no cableclamps here
There's no need for a clamp allowance here, because that is for cable clamps that sit inside a box and anchor the jacket of a cable to the box's entrance, and you don't have anything like that in this scenario.  So, you have 4 2.25 in3 allowances for the 12AWG wires + a fifth for the grounds, which makes 11.25 in3, within the range of this 12 in3 marked body.


Concerns about a pipe that keeps freezing

A simple way avoid freezing is keeping the tap little open (I'd say gallon per hour), because moving water won't freeze.

Another way is to use a 'heated' insulator, so if the temperature drops beyond a threshold, electric heater kicks in keeping the water few degree above freezing point.

Closing the main valve when you go it's not a good thing to do (if you don't empty the cold water piping) because you remove a secondary 'pressure relief'.

Good thing can be emptying only that trunk of pipe that freezes and preventing water passing through it.


When is priming a wall for painting necessary?

There is no reason for priming when freshening up a wall or even changing color for that fact.  If your wall looks in relatively good shape the only area that might need primer are the corners.  Primer will hold better on corners much better than regular paint - as standard latex on metal can basically rub off after curing.


I'd replace the receptacle, loose wires can cause arcing or heating, which is the way fires get started.


Well, at least the building is brick.

No, this is not remotely suitable for a solid fuel burning appliance. As the label indicates, it's for ventilation, exhaust hood, or tumble-dryer - and would appear to be aluminum. It will burn through in short order if used on a wood burning stove.


What makes single handle mixer faucet's cartridge become stiff?

There are "o" rings and rubber bushing inside the cartridge that will deteriorate  over time with age and water treatment chemicals. They will expand and become brittle and can tighten the operation of the cartridge. You can usually get a repair kit for a cartridge that includes the rubber parts and some plumber's grease and fix it yourself. You can also just take the cartridge to a plumbing / home store and get a new one.

Ceramic discs are a different animal. They don't have replaceable seals but they do have seals inside.  there is a pivot point in the handle that can get wore and might stiffen the movement up. The faucets usually have a lifetime warranty  so get with them and they might send you a new cartridge


Shower silicone caulk keeps failing, options for never fail?

You can fill the gap with sealant, then let it set (which might take longer than you think, even a day or two) before doing the actual seal.

For the one where the sealant is failing, there are two main causes - either it didn't stick very well in the first place or the two sides of the seal are moving apart (hence the advice to fill a bath before sealing round it). If there's movement you need to deal with the underlying cause.

If its not sticking very well, cleaning the surfaces with methylated spirit (denatured alcohol) may help.


Ikea Maximera in other cabinet; exact dimensions?

I know this is 9 months old, but thought it worth mentioning to others that might find it, because the selected answer above is incorrect.

The "frame width" that IKEA is referring to is actually the outer dimension of the IKEA frame / cabinet (Metod in Australia). The cabinets are 18mm thick, leaving an internal width of 364mm.
That is precisely the width of the Maximera drawer.

Since your internal width is 395mm, (31mm wider), you should use a timber strip / moulding of 16mm on either side. 1mm difference won't matter.

I just fitted 80x60 maximera drawers to an 80cm custom cabinet (slightly oversized at 82cm). I used 67x11mm mouldings either side and it's perfect.


Ideas to finish the edge of my wall with decorative stone

I'd install some wooden trim / decorative moulding and paint it to match nearby woodwork.

Make the left vertical edge of the decorative-stone even by cutting where needed (e.g. middle row of upper photo).
tack/glue appropriate sized stripwood behind front edge of moulding as shim.
Attach the shimmed moulding using adhesive (as presumably used for the decorative-stone)
Paint

(I'd also grout all those stepped joints)

Another option is to continue the decorative-stone a short way around the corner - some manufacturers of these types of panels allow for this. (random example)


Paper taping or fiberglass mesh taping in bathroom

Could not we use... a primer and a moisture-resistant paint to protect the seams ?

YES, either tape will work fine and you should use the joint compound you are most comfortable with. When covered properly with a high quality primer and paint then the moisture should not be an issue for either.

P.S.- I do not use mesh tape because I have had experience with cracking that does not seem to happen as much with paper. Many folks will likely have suggestions and anecdotes both pro and con for both.


Low city water pressure booster - when would it turn on?

Depends on who engineers the pump and controls. They can be either way. The most economical way would be with an expansion tank and a pump that runs only on demand. I have seen both systems, and installed both types.


Will a Dremel multipurpose bit cut through 1/2 inch polycarbonate?

Polycarbonate likes to melt when you hit it with a high speed blade. The teeth on your 1/8" spiral cutting bit will quickly goo up, and you'll find yourself melting rather than sawing. With some skill/practice, you'll probably be able to make your plastic into about the shape you want. Biggest trouble will probably come from you making the cut too quickly, which'll cause the bit to flex, and melt an irregular path top-to bottom through your Lexan.

-I'd use a jig saw. It's a lot of work, but far less prone to disaster than 30,000 rpm cutting bits.


First, let's assume it is subterranean termites...because your post seems to indicate so. The obvious thing I deduce from your desription is that you are not finding termites in those tubes...hence your curiosity about what happens without the tubes. Point 1. Remember that the female worker termites--the one's eating your house--are blind and must have scent trails to find their way back to the colony. Remove those trails and you remove not only their hideaway avenues, you remove trail home for the most part. (But don't let yourself take comfort in that.) Point 2, termites are strictly a colonial organism--no termite exists and lives for itself; so termites living in the wall and dining your house away for their own pleasure is not a concern.

It is dubious at best what the effectiveness of spot application will be in the long run; and not feasible to think that you can get to them inside the wall cavities. Individual animals you see are only the tip of the proverbial iceberg; it's the hordes you never see (until swarm) that bring down a house quite quickly.

In most states if not all there is very little you can do but a start would be to inspect and remove any contact between house wood and soil. Next, moisture encourages infestation and invasion so check for sound roof condition, guttering, and any rain paths to the foundation, mud sill, crawl space, etc. Perimeter tiling or drain piping, or water shed ground sloping, to carry water away from the house is another suggestion.

Ultimately, you will need licensed termite eradication to either inject a barrier or kill the colony with an effective baiting system--most diy systems are not. Barriers work by preventing any temite from getting into the house--because once inside no systemic treatment has been found to be effective. Baiting systems that work, kill the colony by exploiting known termite foraging habits.

One problem with termite infestations--when you see tunnels, or swarms, or specimens (and sometimes ants in large concentration) you know you already have a significant infestation. Another vexing thing about termites is that the longer they have been in your walls, carpet, books and such the faster their rate of destruction... it's never too early to call in the pro's; and time used hoping to avoid the treatment expense by self help is as often as not time spent to the termites'--not your own and not your house's--advantage.


What is an ideal angle for a seat back piece?

I am sure there are some "standards" but note that there are individual preferences. Take car seats for instance with their range of adjustability. However rear car seats in a sedan or those in many pickup trucks are not adjustable and you may be able to use that as a guide.

Note that comfort in seating often has the seat bottom sloped down toward the back some too. Case in point would be for you to look at some plans for deck chairs or lawn chairs. The rear sloped seat bottom is especially pronounced in Adirondack style chairs.

Another thing to think about. If the seat base is too long front to back the seat back slope can be extremely awkward for persons with shorter legs. Your pictures give the impression of seat bottoms that may be too deep from front to back for generally comfortable seating.

It may be worth a half day trip to a furniture store and to a home center where deck furniture and lawn chairs are sold. You can learn a lot first hand from what you find comfortable to sit in rather than guessing while drawing away in a CAD program.


How do I replace bolts for my toilet that were concreted into the original flange?

If you have access from below it really is a quick job to put a new flange on.  But honestly if the one you have is that solid and has worked well (doesn't clog a lot), then I would simply just throw on a bolt extender.

Note:  Your bolt looks like it extends pretty far so not sure what toilet needs more than that but gave you an answer.


Why don't my inline booster fans operate as expected?

Has your furnace/AC unit been sized for the addition?
Try unplugging the fans from the ducstat and plug them into a regular outlet and see if they continue to cut out.
Keep in mind that these fans will only help move the air that's available from the main blower, they won't increase the air available. Your run of 8" duct and then split into 2-6"ducts is going to have a lot of resistance to air flow. Those two fans will help accelerate the existing air to it's destination. The plenum and main blower will supply a certain amount of air for the entire house, the fans won't increase that amount.
The strain on the fans due to the lack of air could be overloading them and causing them to kick out.
I've seen this a lot on this site and one of the good solutions is to add a mini split system for the addition because you're probably taxing your existing system.


Do I have a fieldstone foundation and if so, do I need to use Type O mortar?

Type “O” mortar is often used because it is not very strong and it’s somewhat flexible. We generally use it for “sandstone” not fieldstone and interior use only. See below:
https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/flooring/different-types-of-mortar-and-their-uses/
I’d use Type N for exterior use.


The comments pretty much answer it, but the important take away here is that the wire should possibly be replaced.  I was a little thrown by the "speaker wire" comment but I presume you are referring to the light.

Get an electrician in there with a MEGGER to test the wiring. They will determine if it is compromised in areas unseen, and recommend replacing the run if needed.

Be safe! Get the megger. Chances are it melted where you found it, but it could be bad elsewhere, that you haven't found it.


water valve to toilet will not shut off and the water is running more and more even when off

This just happened to me yesterday I kid you not.  Not rushing water but a slow drip that accelerated overnight and went down thru the wall all the way to the basement.

The problem was that the rubber washer in the toilet fill valve had corroded because of water.  No problem when attached to the toilet but when I needed to it turn off it could not seal completely and then got worse over a few days.  .

Interested parties mandated that I call a plumber, and for $450 2 guys came and put a new toilet valve shutoff on the water supply line.  It is very nice. The other option would have been for me to bring the old toilet valve shutoff to the hardware store, match it with a new $15, bring that home and put it on.

Benefit would have been savings of $335.  Risk would have been that I screw it up somehow and cause colossal house-destroying leak.  You do that once and people remember...


Laziest/Quickest way to smooth a wood-grain-textured door?

If it's the same door I'm thinking of, I don't think two coats of primer will do it.  You'll need an actual crack filler.
Bear in mind, if they're flat/slab doors, you can fully replace them with a luan veneer door pretty cheaply.  Something like $45 per door last time I bought them.  Not too far from the price of paint.
Is the fake woodgrain so ugly that a nice coat of paint won't dress it up ok?


What distance apart should Elfa vertical wall brackets be?

The best bet it to locate the vertical bracket right over a stud so that they can be fastened into the stud.

For the maximum holding capacity consider one vertical bracket on each stud.

The system that you want to use looks like it is one that has a top rail that the vertical rails hang from. With the top rail it can be fastened into all the studs that it crosses or if high enough on the wall right into the top plate. With this type of system it can still be an advantage to locate the verticals over studs so that they can be anchored to the wall. Otherwise there is the possibility of the lower ends of the verticals swinging back and forth some.


Old box of fridge Arm and Hammer baking soda

baking soda dumped in the sink drain with a little water or down the toilet and flushed would not hurt your plumbing it will dissolve as water mixes with it.


Should I use 1/4" drywall to cover ceiling texture or imperfections?

Have you ever tried to install the terrible interior doors Menards sells with the MDF casing?   (yea we ordered 3 on sale not understanding the casing was made out of a thick cooked noodle - if the doors were a circle this would be a great idea)

I am asking because if you use the 1/4" drywall to go over a ceiling the MDF door is the only way you can easily up your installation frustration.

I have done two rooms in my life using 1/4" over existing drywall.   One was after removal of popcorn ceiling the other was a bedroom that had severe water staining but existing drywall still in good condition.   Will never do it again.

About 1/4":

1/4" will sag even with screwing on 16" OC.   You will have to use a normal screwing schedule but you will go through about a tube of adhesive per board.   The glue will keep it from sagging given flat surface.
As for screwing you have to get really good at evening up your screws to edge and then you go back in later to pop them all in slightly on low speed.
If inspected some cities will not pass 1/4" over existing.
It really is the equivalent of the MDF casing.  You will be installing wet noodles on your ceiling.   You MUST have a good helper to hold the other side of the noodle while popping the first few screws.   I can put a 4x10 5/8" sheet myself easily (not fast but easy).   I am pretty sure I would break a 1/4" sheet by myself.
Due to the flexible properties of the drywall it may not flatten out when going from smooth to texture.

I think you understand the other parts - the longer screws, you aren't floating your edges here, and stuff like that.

My recommendation (unless you just want a way to spend this house time) would be to skim coat the whole ceiling.   Scrape off as much texture as you can and just skim everything.   It sure seems like a PITA but it is 1/4th the work you are looking at.

If you aren't good with skim coating a little secret is you just do the best you can - get it at 90%.   Put a coat of primer on it.   This will seal things up.   Then you fill in the imperfections and it is really easy to fill/sand these because the primer provides a harder surface to lay against.


How do we repair a hole in our basement foundation wall and the floor?

It is to remove ashes from the fireplace that is above it. So there will be a shaft up to the fireplace. I would  only fill in the hole shown and not fill the shaft.


Can I reasonably build a pergola on top of an 8'x12' deck?

It's impossible to suggest a proper structure without much more detail about the existing deck structure. A solution is very likely available, I just can't say what it is. Here's some structural issues that must be addressed to be successful.

The weight of the added structure must be properly transfered into the deck structure. Plus some live load for accumulated snow or simply added safety factor. The weight cannot overload any existing structure or joints, nor the foundation system.

The added structure must resist lateral loads from wind and possibly seismic factors without racking. The railing posts could be adequate, depending on how they tie into the rest of the structure. If not, employ knee braces at every post to resist lateral loads.

You are basically building a parachute. All connections must be tied together so that this thing cannot possibly be blown away in a wind storm. Ties must be employed to transfer uplift loads from the roof all the way down into the foundation. If the existing deck connections do not provide this, they must be reinforced.


What to do for the best on the exterior of our house?

On a budget, Vinyl siding is the most cheapest, cost-effective option.

Pros

Fairly easy to install
Durable
Comes in a ton of colors/styles
Low-maintenance (wash yearly, that's about it)

Cons

Can be broken by strong impact, and if cracked, there's not really a patch, you just have to replace the entire section
Very strong winds can rip siding off (though this is highly subject to the wind angle, style of siding, installation method, strength of fasteners, etc)

To install over top of brick you'll have to install furing strips first. Basically vertical strips that give you a nailing surface, installed every 16"  (though siding manufacturer may have specific instructions).

1x3's would be fine, but you can use a different thickness if you're trying to match up with window trim. There's many ways to install but I'd tend to use masonry screws (eg Tapcon).


That is a classic style mobile home latch. It's probably a generic model. You can still get an exact replacement from many sources. There is probably a local mobile home supply near you that deals with Blevins.


Furnace Blower Motor fan hums but wont start

Yeah, could be the capacitor.  A good quality multimeter with the ability to test capacitance can check it for you.

Discharge the cap, and remove it for testing (be sure your furnace is off).  Then, set your multimeter to the F/uF setting and test it.  The cap should show the cap rating in micro Farads (uF) and a +/- percentage.  The reading should be within that range.

That said, I had the same issue.  Cap was out of range (measured 9.6 on a 12.5 +/-6% cap).  Replaced cap, motor seemed fine, but shortly thereafter would sometimes not start.  I pulled the motor out, and dismantled it.  The commutator was gummed up a bit, so I cleaned it.  Worked ok for a bit, but the furnace would still sometimes limit out (probably because the motor wasn't starting).  Ended up replacing the blower motor, and it works fine.  Furnace was 23 years old, so I guess I can't complain.

Moral of the story is that it could be a combination of both.  And, btw, if you replace the motor, always replace the cap, too.


Thermostat "fan" function actually using air conditioning

Sounds like it's miswired... But maybe your unit has limitations. Pictures would be great.


What is the best covering for a redwood deck to keep the wood's character?

By all means, coat all six surfaces.

My favorite wood protectant is raw (NOT BOILED) linseed oil, but it's not for everybody. It takes a mule's age to harden, and it wants periodic recoating (exposed surfaces only) until it's fully built up. Nothing quite matches the beauty of a fifty-year-old well-maintained linseed-oil finish over natural wood, though.


Connect the heater boiler through a relay instead of direct to the thermostat

I talked to a local HVAC repairman, and he said it should work, so I did it, and it works.

Here's what the circuit looks like:


We're in the middle of a(n epic) flood. Why won't my toilet flush?

Scott,
I'm not a plumber but I think I have been through just about anything plumbing issues can throw at you. I think you provided enough information to get it figured out. I don't think it's item one below since you said it's only an issue when you have torrential rainfall. BUT. One comment made me address this too.

When you said the toilet fills up somewhat when flushed, it leads me to believe your tank is not filling up and getting enough water for a complete flush. - Pull the lid off the back of the toilet and make sure it's filled up before you flush. (should be a water mark / stain showing where the normal level is) If it's not full, it won't flush properly. Get some water from another faucet and fill the tank up and flush. If that works. Good. If not, you have another issue.
Since you are in a municipality (mud district), your house and the neighbor directly behind you are piped into the main sewer line. (All lines run out the back at connect to a center trunk basically. There should be a PVC cap just behind your house (maybe 2-3 feet from the house). This cap should be screwed on (threaded - not glued) This is there to remove for cleaning the line out going either way. (toward the center trunk or under the house and into the toilet). Take that cap off and see if it's full of water/sewage. If it is, your line is either plugged up, collapsed or the main sewer is full.
Good Luck


What sort of tape adheres best to painted drywall?

Umm... this is odd. Usually the question is "what kind of tape comes off of drywall"! Darn near anything will stick to painted drywall far better than you'd want it to.

Masking tape will likely hold reasonably well, but may not support much weight and will dry out and fall off after a couple of years.

Duck tape (the generic cloth-backed stuff, not specifically the brand name) will hold a reasonable amount of weight and will last for years.

Duct tape (the aluminum/foil backed stuff specifically designed for duct work) probably won't hold as well as it does to to galvanized steel ducts

Gaffer's tape will hold about as well as duck tape and will, generally, come off cleanly, but will leave marks after a couple of years. (Ask me how I know)

Electrical tape probably won't hold all that well or support all that much weight.

Double-sided carpet tape will probably do the job quite nicely especially if the wall is pretty smooth.

Double-sided foam-backed tape may hold pretty well, especially if either the surface of the wall or item to be mounted is rough/textured.


Is it safe and legal to replace an extension cord plug end?

Replacement cord ends are not illegal for home use in the USA. They are, however, disallowed by some jobsite governing organizations (OSHA, for example) in certain situations.

Just make sure you're familiar with the fundamentals of electricity and know how to make good electrical and mechanical connections. (The cable jacket should usually extend into the plug and be retained by its clamp.)


What screws to affix TV mount to wooden stud partition?

The screws that is supplied with the mount are rated to do the job, the plywood layer under the drywall is the only additional layer that is not typical in woof frame construction. With that in mind, it is still thin enough so the screws will hold the TV you have, or any other TV. The rule of thumb I use is 1" of screw into the framing behind the drywall and the plywood. Your screws you have should give about 1 1/4" of depth into the framing.
Get at least 4 screws into the wall and you will be fine. The shear strength of the screws far exceed the 70 lbs you will apply on them. IMHO....


How far in from the wall do the first brackets go when hanging closet rod?

Usually 2-feet is the minimal depth or 1-foot on either side of the rod, more is better even if it's just an inch or 2. In your case you can do an upper & lower rod at both the front & the back of the closet, without any need for center supports.

However, no rods nor sockets nor anything should be just screwed in anywhere. They have to be screwed into the wall's framing studs. You probably won't find studs where you want to have the rods.

So, what needs to happen first is that full depth of the closet wood slats or slating need to be screwed to the walls at the stud locations. These slats or slating now become your nailers or screwers & only into these will you put any rod or socket screws to then have the rods wherever you want them.


Advice needed on staining 10 year old fence

Ok let's talk outdoor staining.  You are right that the first thing you need to do is clean off any mold, dirt and green slime. As with decks, a good and cheap solution of TSP, bleach and water is a fine cleaner, no need for expensive premixed stuff.  Using a one gallon garden sprayer, apply your TSP/bleach solution. Let it sit a bit, but not dry. Scrub with a stiff brush and rinse with a pressure washer or high pressure hose. The drying time is obviously tricky in your area, but usually a couple of days of decent weather does a good job. You can somewhat judge the dryness by it's color as compared to the color when wet.

Since the last stain you used was a urethane based acrylic, you really need to stay with an acrylic product this time. A pure oil based product may not sit well and raise the acrylic and create a mess. Also, since there was spar urethane in the last application, a stain only may not want to stick to the areas where the urethane is still in good condition. The urethane is a hard resin and will repel a simple stain. I would probably look towards using a similar product to what you used last time.

As far as what brand to buy, don't over think it. You are painting a fence, not a church! Avoid any bargain basement crap that is most likely low quality. I love Sekins, but it is very pricey. Most major brands are good. My advise is to try to use the same Behr you used last time. It will be formula compatible and the color will match.  Good luck


Extremely loud pop inside apartment building, half the outlets (on the same curcuit) wont work in my apartment

Did you happen to notice if the transformer on the utility pole nearest to your house now looks shiny and brand new?  From your description, it sounds like it blew.  When this happens, for a few moments the voltage coming into your house could theoretically be anything (up to the high voltage side supply, usually several kilovolts), as the various windings within the transformer melt and short together.  Given that, it would be wise to check that all your devices are still functioning properly.  If not, check to see if your homeowners or renters insurance (if any) covers this.

You mentioned that some outlets were working fine while others were browning out -- how did you determine that?  If you're just going by which devices stopped working or dimmed/slowed down, that's not a reliable indicator, since many modern electronics with switching power supplies will continue functioning even on very reduced voltages, but other devices will not.


Why do I have almost no water pressure after installing a new valve?

Likely that you have injected or dislodged some bits of stuff that have now flowed up and clogged your faucet.  Especially likely if you have one of those faucets with a single handle; otherwise how can you explain how the hot water is affected?  Those kinds of faucet have little channels that can be clogged with gunk; it happened to my shower.


Tile underlayment, Ditra vs wire mesh lath

"Except for a few smaller grout cracks they were relatively okay and flat"; Ditra is primarily a water blocking membrane. If you believe that the "sagging/flexing plywood" was caused by water penetration, then an upgrade to the water resistance of your assembly is in order.

However, mortar and mesh provide a function unrelated to Ditra; it is to provide a strong and flat substrate to support the tile installation.

I recommend both! Ditra to waterproof the plywood, then cement tile-board or a mortar bed to provide a strong surface to place your tile on.


Honeywell VR8300A3500 Single Stage Heat Gas Valve to Ecobee3 with C wire

The only goof is that the 24V from the transformer is AC so it really doesn't have a + or - side to it -- it's more or less a "hot/neutral" thing instead.  Otherwise, what you have drawn out will work just fine.


How do I seal a cracked pipe using epoxy putty?

That stuff is worthless for any water line that is pressurized.  IF the crack does not extend into the tile and wall, one way to patch it would have been a glue-over clamshell repair kit like this:

However, you should try to figure out why the pipe is split. This is unlikely, because you generally only see it in slab floors, but if the wall is concrete and was poured around the pipe, that split could easily be from stress if the pipe wasn't wrapped with foam or rubber.


This is not your normal gate valve so you might be in luck. Shut the water off at your meter. Clean off the valve and try to unscrew the larger of the two nuts to disassemble the valve. Support the body of the valve so you don't crack the solder joint. There should/could be a washer on the valve stem that you can replace. The smaller nut might have to be loosened and some packing/washer replaced too.
If this doesn't work, then a valve replacement will be necessary. Replace it with a ball valve. Good luck.


is it worth upgrading from 14 AWG to 12 AWG

In my opinion, no.
Additional Capacity
If you need the additional capacity on a single circuit, you'd be better to simply replace that single circuit, or add an additional circuit.
Additional Outlets
If you're adding additional outlets (I'm talking outlets (lighting, receptacle, etc.), not just receptacle outlets), consider installing a new circuit rather than expanding an existing one.
Technology Upgrade
If you're replacing the wiring anyway (removing old knob & tube, etc.), you'll want to install 20 ampere circuits with 12 AWG conductors where appropriate. Though it still may not make sense to simply install all #12 wire.
Free Wire
If you have a ton of 12 AWG wire laying around that you got for free, and you just feel like spending hours pulling cable. Go ahead.


Blower turns on and off even though the unit is satisfied

Welcome to DIY!

The blower runs when the heat exchanger goes over a set temperature and turns off when it goes under it as I bet you already know. However, heat is still transferring from where the fire was burning so it can warm back up and turn back on for a minute or so. The blower doesn't care if your thermostat is satisfied or not as it goes by it's own temperature control to make sure the furnace doesn't get too hot. That is probably your issue.


That appears to be a solid state speed controller.
On my side of the pond they don’t have the built in fuse.
If you purchase a locally sourced solid state speed controller that has 1.6 amp capability or more you should be fine.


How do I make my gas oven produce less carbon monoxide?

Great questions can always be asked with only a few words.
But my answers never seem short.
The short answer is that the stove can not breathe. Give it more air. Problem Fixed.

What is happening, the chemistry answer:
Carbon Monoxide is made when too much natural gas is burning in too little oxygen.
Good ->  Natural Gas + Lots of Oxygen + Spark = Carbon DIOXIDE + Water + 100% Heat
Bad ->   Natural Gas + Not enough Oxygen + Spark = Carbon MONOXIDE + Water + 50% Heat

You now know how CO (carbon monoxide) is made, and that making it wastes energy.
It also stops blood from working. That is a different lesson.

An oven burner while it is working. Gas Valve, Gas line orifice,and Venturi Tube. Flame Manifold.

Short rant about poor quality testing:
Breathing air with 10 ppm of CO is better than breathing air with 80 ppm.
However
I hate that you were told this by someone you were hoping could improve your safety, it is a case of a little knowledge is dangerous.
I think it is great that you had a test conducted.
People that put any effort into testing are almost always better off than those who do not. Just because they are people who at least think about such things.
It annoys me that the guy that did the testing was so unknowledgeable. I am sure he intended to be helpful. Sadly he left more questions than answers.

Much longer rant about bad test procedures:
If I tell you my car gets 0 miles per gallon, you might think that is bad.
If I add that I got this measurement after I was trying to climb Mt Everest in my car, It then makes sense. Well, 0 miles a gallon makes sense. Conducting a test like that, it makes no sense.
You have to know what you are testing, and you have to be testing the same thing.
I tell you 80 ppm of CO is high, and I have seen 10 ppm, who knows what that means?
Was the oven running for 5 minutes or 30, was it preheated to 400 degrees, or 100, was he 1 foot away or 3, was he using an in date calibrated meter, was the air in the room moving or still, was the room 68 degrees or 78 ?
I am not asking you these questions, but they are valid questions, and I am wondering if he took all this information into account when he gave you the number of 80 ppm.
If he takes me to his 10 ppm oven, I can get his meter to read 200, or 0, without 'adjusting' the oven.


How to fix a toilet which continuously runs

Simplest thing to check:  is the chain from the white rod down to the flapper valve tangled and thus too short to let the flapper valve fully down onto its seat?


How do I add circuits to a flush mounted panel box?

In the trade it's called fishing walls.
Stud finders, fish tape, electrical tape, jab saw, and a drill will be your trusty friends.
Avoid cutting the walls and ceiling with wiremold box and conduit from Legrand


Too tall cast iron toilet flange in cement

There is almost no way in the world that your piece of cast iron here was designated for a toilet.
Edit based on additional pictures:   That is almost surely a washer drain.   Good news is it is probably vented.   Bad news is it isn't big enough for after truckstop buffet.   So everything below is still true but you may only need to bust up until you get to the wye that has the vent line.   Also if you are doing sink or shower you need to think about tying these in.
So you cannot just cut it off and add a coupling.
Step 1
Have someone come out and put a camera down there and see where it goes.   I am guessing your main stack location changed or you had multiple stacks.   This one is no longer in service... but are the pipes still connected and in good condition below that concrete?   You don't know and doing a ton of finishing work and then figuring out that this pipe is a bust... Well you would be out thousands plus tons of work time.

Bare minimum alternative:  Flush your whole house.   Means put a
crapload of water from everywhere and flush out the sewer lines.
Find the cleanout on the street.   Now... and not kidding... dump some
human crap and toilet paper down this line - not a kiddie dump, a
truckstop buffet dump.   Then dump about 10 gallons of water (or run a
hose).   You should be able to visually see the crap and toilet paper
running through the cleanout.  If you don't or it takes a while... you
need to go back and have a plumber throw a camera down there.

With this "stack" being open it could be clogged with debris, it could be fully functional, it could have roots in it, who knows.   This is anywhere from ready-to-go, to needs a cleanout, to can't ever be used.
Step 2
Let's assume you prove this line works.   You still have to vent it.   You do not want to deal with a toilet venting problem after finishing parts of a basement.   So really you need to design how this will vent.   And this is why you can't just cut it out and add a flange.  So you need to design how you will vent this thing.
Step3
You will have to bust up a little bit of concrete.   Based on the picture below (this is how I see your toilet functioning) you need to:

bust up some concrete.
go over 2-3 feet so you can install in order
coupling
45 wye
straight PVC
90 degree
straight
flange

This is the bare minimum and will take ~1 hour to do once you have room to install coupling.

Step 4
The very hardest step is figuring out where your vent is going to go.   It is its own question and depends on where the plumbing is in this house and your other options.  A toilet must be vented, so take that 2" piece route it to something that can act as a vent.   If you are adding more than a toilet here, you can plan your venting out one location.
Step 5
The slope and height of the pvc needs to be reinforced (I am guess ground under) so you need to fill with pea gravel, drainage rock, then concrete.

Don't let these steps scare you.   Everything is very DIY friendly.   Do be scared about adding a toilet and finishing this space if you miss one of these steps.


Is hanging beam a type of vertical members?

A beam is a Horizontal member, it transfers the load to the vertical members such as wall studs or posts.

When you lay down on a bed or on the floor you are the horizontal position, When you are standing on your feet you are in the vertical position.

Wikipedia


National Electrical Code is pretty clear on this, at least as of the 2014 version. It says that if the fixture is above the tub or shower, and within 8 ft. vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold, the fixture must be rated for damp locations. If the fixture may be subject to shower spray, it has to be rated for wet locations.
If it were me, I'd install a fixture rated for wet locations, just to be on the safe side.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 410 Luminaires, Lampholders, and Lamps
II. Luminaire Locations
410.10 Luminaires in Specific Locations.
(D) Bathtub and Shower Areas. No parts of cord-connected
luminaires, chain-, cable-, or cord-suspended luminaires,
lighting track, pendants, or ceiling-suspended
(paddle) fans shall be located within a zone measured
900 mm (3 ft) horizontally and 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from
the top of the bathtub rim or shower stall threshold. This
zone is all encompassing and includes the space directly
over the tub or shower stall. Luminaires located within the
actual outside dimension of the bathtub or shower to a
height of 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub
rim or shower threshold shall be marked for damp locations,
or marked for wet locations where subject to shower
spray.

NOTE: This code seems to go back as far as the 2008 version of NEC. So as long as your jurisdiction has adopted at least NEC 2008, you should be fine.
You should have no trouble finding fixtures; and/or trim, that is rated for wet locations. In almost all cases, the fixture or trim will be sealed to prevent water intrusion. A quick search through Home Depot's inventory, turned up this item for example.
6 in. White Recessed Lighting Reflector Shower Trim with Frosted Glass Lens
I'm sure you'll find them in all different styles, colors, and from many different manufacturers.


Paint drying time around doors and windows that have condensation

Cool temperatures and moisture will affect dry time of latex (water based) paints. A fan heater should help with that. If you are using alkyd (oil-based) paint, cool temps will have the same effect and the heater will help with that; moisture may ruin the paint as it might curdle or wrinkle.

Due to VOC content restrictions, solvents which aid drying are being minimized in oil-based paints; however, there is an additive product called Japan Dryer that will speed dry time, use as directed.


Taking apart wood bed frame with no screws

That looks like the board just slides upward.  See the slot underneath the board?  Lift up on the board with the pegs, and gently tap the board with the slot downward using a hammer or something.  The board with the pegs probably has some J hooks that slide into the slot and hook over a peg, dowel, or whatever that crosses through the slot.

Edit:  Here's a picture likely resembling what you have that goes into that slot.


I would:

Clean out the hole and all the broken drywall.
Use drywall screws and screw 2 or 3 cross pieces of strapping across the back side of the hole.
Then you can cut a new piece of drywall and fit it to the hole and you have something to screw it to.


Check your start / run capacitors.  They live in the outside unit, near the switch.

They look like oval or circular cans, and they feature prongs on one end and a flat bottom on the other.  If either end looks even remotely non-flat, the capacitor has failed and the compressor won't run (even if there's freon in the line and the compressor is functional).  Sometimes there is only one capacitor, as it has both the "start" capacitor and the "run" capacitor built into the same package.

If you are in doubt as to the "flatness" of the package, pull the disconnect near the outside unit, provide a bit of time to let the capacitors drain (10 min should be sufficent) and pull the capacitors out of the system (take care to identify the wiring, wiring a capacitor backwards is not recommended).  Then find a nice flat table and if one wobbles, it is gone.  If it is flat on the table, you dont't have this problem.

The repair (if needed) is a new capacitor ($10 to $15 at an AC parts supplier, no license needed for this part).  If you find these capacitors failing more often than "once in a blue moon" it is a strong indication that something else is wrong with the system, like worn windings on the compressor motor, or possibly an electrical short elsewhere.

You can replace a two-in-one capacitor with two single capacitors (provided they match the original ratings) and vice-versa.  But there's no need to get all fancy.

And everyone says "low freon" or a compressor.  Get used to it.  Occasionally they are right, but a failure like that sounds odd if recent repair work was done, unless the repairman did a shoddy job.


If polyurethane is not food safe, why is it used on dining tables?

According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe.  Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.

Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board.  If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged.  Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.

As you've found, shellac is not an appropriate choice for an area that will get wet frequently.  However, you will not have any problem applying polyurethane over the shellac.


Need help replacing bulb in fancy light fixture

There were small screws on the both sides of the metal, top and bottom (4 total) that was securing the glass attached to the metal frame. Removing them provided access. You have to remove 4 tiny screws and dangle sharp edged glass, while perched up on the bathroom counter top. Not losing the tiny screw is another challenge with screw driver on one hand, glass on another .... thanks for the responses everyone!


You can get specialized cutters for that sort of thing, but you can do it without, all you need is a drill, hammer, and chisel. You drill 4 holes in the corners of the hole you want, at the depth you want, then chisel out the material in between. A workbench would be handy for this but you could do it on floor if you like.

That is a load of work though, so a cutter would be a better choice. Alternatively buy something like a lay on sprung hinge that requires no inset hole:


How to clean cooling fins on already installed AC unit?

I will usually use a cheap paint brush to work the dirt loose then use the vacuum. You may need to cut the bristles down to make the brush stiffer. They do make no rinse coil cleaner but usually only commercially available. Garden type air sprayers work well for rinsing the coil without making a mess. The coil should drain to the outside if it is installed right.


Voltage detector beeps on the sides of smart dimmer switch after installation

Non contact voltage detectors are very sensitive and can be miss-leading. They detect the presence of power, not the amount of flow of power. Your smart dimmer is using a tiny bit of power at all times which is being routed thru the neutral, which is appropriate, but it's enough to trigger a non-contact voltage detector.   If you really are worried about it, you need to get a digital multimeter (DMM)with an amp clamp on it that you can put around the neutral to measure the amps being used.  It should be a very tiny amount, maybe not even measurable.
To be certain, can you provide a picture of the wiring in the box? It makes a difference whether this is a switch leg where the power goes to the fixture and then a cable to the box, or power goes to the box where the dimmer is and then a cable to the fixture.


UK: Is it safe to bypass a light switch?

You can

Replace the switch with a key-operated switch. The type that have a slot for a "fish key" are probably the cheapest.
Replace the switch with a 1-gang coverplate and connect the wires using a suitably rated (e.g. 5A) screw-terminal block. I don't know if this is legal. To replace the lightbulb you'd then have to go to the consumer unit (main panel) and turn off the MCB for lighting to that whole floor.

  OR

switch and key are each about £1.20. That is cheaper and better than the alternative.


I haven't heard of green mud. For our bathroom, we used Densarmor instead of greenboard. The issue with moisture and sheetrock is the paper. Greenboard uses a waxed paper. Densarmor (and the like) use fiberglass instead of paper. I used the fiberglass sheetrock, fiberglass mesh tape, then standard joint compound. I then painted with a mildew resistant paint.

In the end, was it worth it? Well, it was probably overkill. Most mildew issues in a bathroom are the result of either a) direct water contact (shower area) or b) complete lack of ventilation.

When we did the bathroom, we also installed a high-quality ventilation fan (there was none previously) and a timer switch (to make sure it stayed on long enough after a shower). That, alone, was likely enough to prevent mildew issues.


What is this tiny plastic insert in my sliding window sash?

By looking at the space between the window frame and the sash (approximately 1/4 inch ?) I believe those shims are installed to keep the sash straight and from rattling around when it is opened and closed.
Or they could be part of the spring assisted lift system of the window. The piece that is in view may be attached to a mechanism on the edge of the window which compromises the spring lift mechanism.
I'd say some sort of shim, though.
It may be easier to find the manufacturer of your window and get the shims from their site.


What Good and Affordable Alternative Power Source Would You Recommend?

Good and affordable are both relative to many local factors. Your best bet is to look around you and see what fuel source is abundant. You'll also want to think about how often/long that resource is present during high power use periods as you'll need to store the power for later use which can rack up the price.

There are areas of Michigan that are some of the cloudiest around and so solar may not be a good choice for the amount of radiation present. Add in the shorter days in winter and you compound it. However other areas are close to wind tunnels during the day (lake air movement) and so wind could be a good solution since power use would be lower in the middle of the night when the winds die down, saving storage costs.

If you are surrounded by fast food joints changing your generator to run on frying oil or biodiesel may pay for itself quickly with the low cost fuel supply.

Once you decide on what is locally abundant, then turn to google (or this board) to see if there are low-cost DIY options or suppliers in your area. Importing equipment might wipe out any potential savings, though if you are doing this as a business expense you may be able to write off some things or look around for grants/rebates for "green businesses".


You may not have trouble with your appliances, but the intermittent connection could be generating an enormous amount of heat and spark an electrical fire. If the intermittent connection is on the utility pole then you probably don't need to feel responsible; if it's in your breaker box or in your wall then you should be extremely concerned.

As a rule of thumb, a loose connection where your lights are either completely on or completely off isn't a concern; it's the times when your lights are half on where that connection can be dissipating an enormous amount of energy. Worst case, the connection could be dissipating on the order of one quarter of the full usual load, so with a 3400W electric dryer you could have almost a kilowatt of power heating up that connection. Could get entertaining fast.


The cable is not the problem.  It takes less current to supply the same power at 240 V as it does at 120 V.  The wires intended for 120 V operation therefore have excess current capability.

However, you have to consider voltage on other parts.  The switch has to withstand more voltage when open, and so does the insulation between you and the high voltage.  Probably both of these can handle the extra voltage.  However, if something happens, the liability is on you.  If the lamp catches fire and burns the house down, the insurance company would have a legitimate reason not to pay.  If someone got electrocuted by touching this lamp, you could be in serious trouble.

All around, this is a bad idea.  Leave the US lamp in the US.  Get a UK lamp for use in the UK.


How do I replace a wooden fence post that was set in concrete?

I just went through the process of removing a broken-off fence post without removing the concrete pier. Tough job! I expected it would only take a couple of hours, and that replacing just the post would be easier than digging out and breaking out the old pier, disposing of the concrete, and pouring a new pier.  Maybe not, though, especially if the old post is not rotten clear to the bottom of the hole so that it breaks apart easily.  But I digress.  What I need to relate here is how I got the post out.

First, I carefully pulled out the nails that attached the fence to the post.  I could have cut them off with a reciprocating saw, but I could get to the nails pretty easily and so I just pulled them. The post, then, being broken off that ground level, just fell over.  I used a piece of 2x4 and C-clamps to clamp the two pieces of fence together to keep them from falling over.

Next, I dug the dirt and debris out from around the top of the pier and used a shop vac to clean that up so that I had nice unobstructed access to the part of the post still buried in the concrete.  I used a 2-9/16" drill (kind of expensive) with an 18" extension to bore all the way down to the bottom of the post (about 24") and vacuumed out all the resulting wood debris.  You will need a pretty substantial electric drill to do that, by the way.  Your battery powered drill will probably not be up to the task.  Getting the drill going was harder than I expected because the broken off top of the post was not flat and I couldn't cut it off flat because it was broken off below ground level.  Consequently, the drill bit bucked around a lot trying to get some wood to bite into.  I finally got the drill started, though, and after that the drilling went pretty smoothly.  The drill bit was pretty much trashed by the end of that, by the way, but oh well.

Having drilled out most of the post, I expected to be able to work a crow bar between what remained of the post and the concrete pier and break out the rest of the post pretty easily.  Not so easy, though, and in the end I could only break the post out down about 13" below ground level.  Below that, I couldn't get enough leverage with the crowbar to break out anymore of the post.  Also, I couldn't manipulate the crowbar into the corners of the hole to break out the pieces of the post that stuck to the concrete at the corners.  So, not only could I not break out the entire post (i.e., down 24"), but I couldn't even get a totally clean hole down 13".  Pretty clean, but not sufficiently clean that a new post would just slip down into the hole without some trimming.

I read somewhere on the web that you can burn a post out.  The website even had a picture showing a little pile of briquettes piled up around a broken off post.  Given that the post is wood, burning it out didn't seem like an unreasonable thing to try.  I did realize, though, that I would have to get oxygen down into the hole to keep the fire going, and so I hooked up a small fan I use with my Big Green Egg barbeque (duct tape works wonders) to a piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe, stuffed the end of the pipe down the hole, filled the hole with charcoal, and fired it off.  That REALLY made a hot fire, literally roaring.  Sounded like a blast furnace.  My idea was that the charcoal would get the fence post burning, and then all I would have to do is keep the air going into the hole and eventually the post would burn itself up.  Well, I kept this roaring fire going for 2 hours and at the end of it the post was absolutely unscathed!  Barely singed it!  Didn't even burn out the pieces of the post that stuck to the corners of the hole.  Also, when I said I had a roaring fire going, I meant it.  There was enough heat coming out the hole that the fence itself caught fire.  Fortunately, I had anticipated that possibility and had a squirt bottle and a hose handy.  Anyhow, burning the post out didn't work worth beans.

In the end I decided that getting the new post down 13" was probably sufficient, and so I used my belt sander to round the corners of the post (remember, there were still pieces of the old post stuck in the corners of the pier), slipped it down the hole, filled the space between the pier and the new post with sand, and then nailed the fence back to the post.  You will probably want to drill pilot holes in the old fence because the wood is probably about shot and won't take a lot of abuse. Anyhow, it's all back together and it looks like it will last another couple of years until my neighbor and I decide to replace the whole fence.

An additional thought:  I used a piece of finished 4x4 for my post for a couple of reasons that we don't need to go into here. Suffice it to say that a finished piece of wood is a little smaller than the original post, and so I had little space between the new post and the concrete pier that I just filled with sand. If you use a treated post or a regular fence post, you will probably have to sand or plane it down a bit to get it to slide down into the hole, and then, as I did, you will have to fill the space between the post and the pier with sand.  You DO, by the way, want the post to SLIDE down into the hole.  If it is a tight fit and you pound the post in with a sledge hammer and you then need to take it back out again for some reason (maybe it didn't go in quite plumb, for instance) you will have a whole new problem to deal with (ask me how I know that.).

So, the bottom line is if you want to take out a broken off post without taking out the concrete pier, it can be done...sorta.  At least you can get out enough of the broken post to set a new one. But if your broken off post goes down 18"-24" below grade and you want to get the whole thing out, you may not be able to do that. At least, I wasn't able to.


How do I add veneer stone to an exterior painted wall?

You need mesh. While veneer is a fraction of the weight of full stone, it is not light. The mesh forms a framework that the bonding material will surround and be inseparable from it (absent smashing with a hammer). The mesh is firmly attached to the underlying structure with fasteners (type depending on the nature of the siding).

In this case, the painting of the surface makes no difference.

Getting mortar to adhere directly to an existing concrete, stucco, brick or stone surface is not simple, especially when there is a tendency of the attached material to pull away from that surface. Adding to a horizontal surface (like a concrete floor, steps or walk), there is mostly a compression force (pushing the surfaces together), and bonding makes more sense. On a vertical (or overhead) surface, where the force is tension (pulling away), this makes less sense.

I think you need the mesh.