GFIC requirements for a Kitchen multi-outlet strip

Ground-fault circuit interruption protection is required for all receptacles installed in a kitchen, that serve the countertop surfaces.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 2 - Wiring and Protection
Article 210 - Branch Circuits
I. General Provisions
210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel shall be provided as required in 210.8(A) through (C). The ground-fault circuit-interrupter shall be installed in a readily accessible location.
(A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have ground-fault circuitinterrupter protection for personnel.
(1) Bathrooms
(2) Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use
(3) Outdoors
Exception to (3): Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment shall be permitted to be installed in accordance with 426.28 or 427.22, as applicable.
(4) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level.
(5) Unfinished basements — for purposes of this section, unfinished basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and the like.
Exception to (5): A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed burglar alarm system shall not be required to have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.
(6) Kitchens— where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces
(7) Sinks — located in areas other than kitchens where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink
(8) Boathouses
(9) Bathtubs or shower stalls — Where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the bathtub or shower stall.
(10) Laundry areas

You can either provide ground-fault protection by feeding the device from the load side of a  GFCI receptacle, or installing a GFCI circuit breaker on the circuit.
Keep in mind that you may not be able to replace all the receptacles in the kitchen with a single multi-receptacle unit, but may install the multi-receptacle unit in addition to, or as a substitute for the required receptacles.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 2 - Wiring and Protection
Article 210 - Branch Circuits
III. Required Outlets
210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. 210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. This section provides requirements for 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacle outlets. The receptacles required by this section shall be in addition to any receptacle that is:
(1) Part of a luminaire or appliance, or
(2) Controlled by a wall switch in accordance with 210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, or
(3) Located within cabinets or cupboards, or
(4) Located more than 1.7 m (51/2 ft) above the floor
(C) Countertops. In kitchens, pantries, breakfast rooms, dining rooms, and similar areas of dwelling units, receptacle outlets for countertop spaces shall be installed in accordance with 210.52(C)(1) through (C)(5).
(1) Wall Countertop Spaces. A receptacle outlet shall be installed at each wall countertop space that is 300 mm (12 in.) or wider. Receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the wall line is more than 600 mm (24 in.) measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space.
Exception: Receptacle outlets shall not be required on a wall directly behind a range, counter-mounted cooking unit, or sink in the installation described in Figure 210.52(C)(1).
(2) Island Countertop Spaces. At least one receptacle shall be installed at each island countertop space with a long dimension of 600 mm (24 in.) or greater and a short dimension of 300 mm (12 in.) or greater.
(3) Peninsular Countertop Spaces. At least one receptacle outlet shall be installed at each peninsular countertop space with a long dimension of 600 mm (24 in.) or greater and a short dimension of 300 mm (12 in.) or greater. A peninsular countertop is measured from the connecting edge.
(4) Separate Spaces. Countertop spaces separated by rangetops, refrigerators, or sinks shall be considered as separate countertop spaces in applying the requirements of 210.52(C)(1), (C)(2), and (C)(3). If a range, counter-mounted cooking unit, or sink is installed in an island or peninsular countertop and the depth of the countertop behind the range, countermounted cooking unit, or sink is less than 300 mm (12 in.), the range, counter-mounted cooking unit, or sink shall be considered to divide the countertop space into two separate countertop spaces. Each separate countertop space shall comply with the applicable requirements in 210.52(C).
(5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall be located above, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.) above, the countertop. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place, appliance garages, sinks, or rangetops as covered in 210.52(C)(1), Exception, or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets.


I've lived in Canada and now the Midwest where snow can get good depth at either place. We've always used tarp reinforced with additional cross beams and tied with hard ties, but some off the shelf walmart tarp won't cut it. You need "heavy duty" tarp rated for all-weather use. You can generally expect reliability out of it for around 10 years.

We tried the corrugated roofing and noticed three things that made us switch. On the rainy days the sound it makes drove both the animals and ourselves nuts. When it hails, they get beat up really quick and easy. especially if they have a couple years on them and have gotten brittle in the case of the plastic types...and on the windy days, it becomes a great big sail that can really put some test to your anchors if they aren't rock solid. Where as the tarps somehow seem to have more "give" to them.

Anyway, it will all come down to what you're dealing with in your particular area and the type of weather. I would ask a neighbor or buddy to see what's worked best for them.


Radiators don't heat up evenly, and am missing an Expansion Vessel. Do I need it?

A fellow Briton (I'm guessing from your terminology) will have a better sense of what's normal and customary there than I do. Certainly sounds like the installers screwed up.

What sounds like your major heating issue is probably air trapped in the pipes/radiators - particularly the ones that do not heat well - there should be some sort of air vent on those (near the top - possibly on the pipe, possibly on the radiator itself) which you can open to permit the air to leave. Shut when water starts coming out. The expansion vessel is somewhat related, as it makes up the difference in volume from a cold to hot system so that the system does not blow off water (assuming there is a pressure relief somewhere.) If you open a bleeder and you don't reach a point where water comes out, the lack of an expansion vessel would be partly responsible - without one, system pressure will drop rapidly as you remove air, and may drop too low to push all the air out, unless you add more water to the system.

If you really don't have an expansion vessel and pressure relief, and the system is, in fact closed, that creates a significant hazard, as system pressure could rise to unsafe levels as the system heats. I would expect that the boiler would at least have a pressure or pressure/temperature relief. If there really isn't one, you have a potential steam explosion... or you don't have the system type you think you do.


What options are available for gap between interior door frame and wall?

For small gaps between wooden trim such as doorframes and plastered walls I use a "Flexible gap filler" - available at any DIY store. Spending a few minutes reading the containers carefully and asking store assistants will get you a product you can try.

Description from a randomly selected product

  This flexible filler achieves a white crack-free fill between two surfaces where movement can occur. Controlled application is ideal for long linear gaps.

  For flexible, crack-free filling between two surfaces where movement can occur.
  Easily controlled application for long linear gaps.
  For indoor and outdoor use.

Another one

  An acrylic filler for draught proofing and filling fine cracks. Can be sanded, overpainted or papered over. Solvent free formulation.

  Interior or Exterior Use: Interior
  Application Method: Knife
  Colour: White
  Size: 310 ml
  Type: Ready Mixed Filler

It is often a good idea to rake out the corner first, to remove loose or weak paint. Then sand as necessary before cleaning and filling.


With the power off, try pushing the can up into the attic. The can should break free of the bracket and only be held in place by the cable. Some of these lights have support ties that attach to the joists. Once the can is free of the bracket, you should be able to look up there and see how the fixture is fastened in place. good luck and stay safe out there.


Routing electrical wire when existing hole is too tight

Sure you can drill extra holes just make sure you don't nick the existing wires.


Is it OK to drill vertically through a joist?

Don't do it.

The reason that you can drill through the face of a beam in the center is because the bending stress is essentially zero there.

If you drill from the top to the bottom, you're removing the portions that carry the brunt of the loading (the top and bottom of the beam). If a joist that big is sistered, there's a good bet that it's a major load bearing beam section that you don't want to mess with.

Find a different route for your wire. Ask yourself this question: Is it worth risking major structural problems in order to hide one unsightly wire?

Image Source


How can I tell if my vinyl floor is inlaid or contains asbestos?

In the US at least, asbestos was used during and after the 70's. I can't speak for Germany.

To really know if it contains asbestos or not you'll need to test it. In the US at least you can get a kit for about $10 to collect a sample. Then it's another $40 or $50 for a lab to test your sample.

I'd say it's linoleum based on the fiber backing. See if you can melt it with a burning match - vinyl will melt easily but linoleum won't. Do this with a small sample (don't try to light your floor on fire...) and have a way to put it out.

To find out what to do with it, call whoever takes your trash away. The law regarding trash disposal will vary a huge amount by jurisdiction so it's tough to answer exactly.


Can I increase the size of my breakers without modifying the wiring?

The initial answer is NO - do not "just replace it with a 15 Amp breaker"

UNTIL you learn more about the setup.

Your best source will be whomever installed it in the first place.

Alternatively, you will want to have a qualified electrician take a look and give you an answer that applies directly to you.


Replacing Vintage Carlon Thyrocon Rotary Dimmer with Lutron Skylark S603-PGH Sliding Dimmer

Colors don't mean much
The color of wires in house-wiring cable (NM, UF) is only mildly meaningful as to their function, as you have observed, due to the fact that all such cables use the same color scheme (black/white/bare, with red for a second hot, blue for a third hot, and red/white striped for a second neutral).  As a result, grouping and connectivity are the main pieces of information that convey the meaning of wires in household wiring.
This is easy, though
What you're looking at here is the end of a 3-way switch spur; the existing dimmer is wired with its black common wire to the black wire from the cable, its red traveler wires to the red and white wires from the cable, and its ground connected to the bare ground wire in the cable.  The new dimmer wires up much the same way as a result: its black wire goes to the black wire from the cable, its red and red/white (traveler) wires go to the red and white traveler wires from the cable, and its green ground wire connects to the bare ground wire from the cable and a grounding pigtail to the box.


Will wooden fencing "age" inside a dark (but ventilated) garage?

Since a significant portion of the fence panel aging is due to sun, rain, wind and temperature changes the best way to get your unmounted panels to age is to put them into the same environment as the mounted panels.

This really would mean propping them up so that they are exposed to the elements and the sun. If this is not practical then your next best bet is to get some help and finish the fence construction this weekend.


Is it acceptable that a 15A circuit be branched to multiple rooms?

It's perfectly fine to have a single breaker service multiple areas of a house, and in fact, the code doesn't say too much about that beyond certain places require dedicated circuits (eg: kitchen counter outlets). The code limitation only comes from circuit load and the size of the breaker and wiring.

Practically speaking, it's nice to limit the scope of a single circuit.

For example, I try to do one of:

Single breaker controls all outlets/lights in one room only
Single breaker controls all outlets/lights in two or more rooms
All outlets in one room are controlled by two or more breakers, but those breakers don't control any other rooms.

I also generally try to keep lights and outlets on separate circuits, but that's not always practical. It is nice when a circuit breaker blows that the lights don't all turn off as well, and it makes working on things easier (you can either use the lights or plug in a light).

I personally find it dumb when one breaker controls part of the outlets/lights in one room, and part in another room or area, but there's nothing technically wrong with it. I dislike it because it's not intuitive, it's harder to shut off a room, and the breaker labels are really hard to write and understand. At best your breakers get labelled stupid things like "N wall, green bdrm + S Wall blue bdrm + Hall + Bathroom lights".


Why is double plate necessary in this case?

The original framing here is balloon framing.  It doesn't work the same way that platform framing works.  (Platform framing variants are almost universal for well over 50 years in the US.)  The studs are continuous from the plate under the rafters to the sill on the foundation.
It replaced post and beam construction because it didn't rely on massive straight timbers for posts, beams, and girts.  It went out of style when it got to be hard to get lumber long enough for those long studs.

The board you're calling a header isn't really a header, it's a ribband or ledger.  The joists rest on the ribband, but are also face nailed to the studs, so the ribband doesn't do all of the transfer of the floor load to the studs.  The ribband doesn't span across openings the way a header or joist or beam does.
I don't have any technical understanding how window openings in balloon framing worked.  If you're used to platform framing headers, some of what you see in balloon framing looks like it wouldn't work.  But it has held up very well in homes built from the late 1800s to maybe 1930.  The walls are surprisingly strong.  They usually just have a single horizontal 2x4 spanning the small openings, maybe a doubled 2x4.  (Of course in those days, a 2x4 was really 2" x 4", and the quality of lumber in general was far better.)  I have seen pictures of much more elaborate methods, but haven't actually seen them in the wild.  I suspect they were used in the load bearing walls on bigger openings in high end homes.

I suspect it has something to do with balloon framing walls working as a structural assembly.  With the sheathing and the ribband, the headers don't support the entire weight above the window.  Since the studs are continuous, there are no cripples above the header, the studs above the header continue all the way up.  In a sense the headers they used, if you can even call them headers, hang from the studs above.
I am just guessing, but I don't think architects and engineers have a super detailed understanding of how balloon framing works like they do with platform framing.  Maybe your architect figured it was better to just overbuild it rather than try to figure out what's the minimum you can get by with.  They probably did you a favor - they'd have charged you more for the detailed analysis than you'd ever recover in the cost of lumber you save.


Replace Worn Rubber Cover Over Grohe Ladylux Cafe 33 755 Kitchen Sink Spray Head

Call Grohe customer service and tell them to send you a free replacement part and instructions/diagram: grohe:

Residential Products: We provide the following warranties on all GROHE products to the original purchaser, installed in a residential setting. This warranty is effective for all faucets sold after January 1, 1997.
Mechanical Warranty: A Limited Lifetime Warranty is provided on all mechanical parts to be free from manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship under normal use for as long as the original purchaser owns their home.
Finish Warranty: A Lifetime Warranty is provided on all GROHE product finishes to the original purchaser against manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship


Is it bad to have a circuit breaker on both ends of a feeder?

The breaker in the main panel is the ruling breaker, as it protects the wiring between panels.  A "main breaker" in the subpanel cannot protect that wiring, so it serves only as a shutoff switch, AFCI or GFCI if equipped. ** Therefore it doesn't matter if the subpanel breaker is larger than the main panel breaker.  There is nothing wrong with this and it is often mandatory.

If you want a shutoff switch (or master GFCI or AFCI) in the subpanel, select a subpanel which does that, i.e. a "main breaker" panel rather than a "main lug" panel.  Main breakers make affordable shutoff switches.

Note that such a shutoff switch is mandatory when the subpanel is in a different building.

What if you have a main-lug panel?  Can you just install a regular breaker of usefully large size, and backfeed the breaker?  Not quite.  Anytime you backfeed a breaker, it must be bolted down.  (you can imagine how that rule got written.) You will need to either

already have a panel type where breakers bolt down (Siemens, QOB, Pushmatic)
bolt down the breaker using a listed method (which presumes the panel provides the right bolt-downs, and a breaker with the right holes/brackets)
add an external shut-off switch
swap the panel out for a main-breaker panel
or if legal, do without a "main" breaker.

Edit: Here's an interesting listed method for Siemens snap-in panels to bolt a breaker down. This gen/utility interlock bolts directly to the breakers, and locks them together in a way they can't rotate to snap out -- thus satisfying boltdown.  In your case, you're only after that, so the other breaker position is wasted.  Do not use Siemens breakers on anything but a Siemens panel ***. I hear they'll snap in, but at wrong clamp tension etc.

** Hypothetically if you provided a 100A feed on #1AL wire to a 60A subpanel, the 100A in the main breaker would protect the wire, and the 60A "main breaker" in the subpanel would protect the subpanel.  But that installation would violate diy.se's advice of "get a really big panel".  Also the 60A wouldn't necessarily trip first.

*** Siemens does make breakers specifically designed to go in a QO panel. (why??) Those are for QO panels only, don't even use them in Siemens panels.


Wiring issue with 3-way switches and FEIT smart dimmer and T1/T2 lines cross-talk

T2 has some 45V AC voltage on it when T1 is connected to live/hot wire.

Possibly a red herring. I had a similar experience when installing a similar 3-way-compatible "smart" switch (but with a timer feature instead of dimmer). When I asked the electrician about it, they said that if there's any current flowing in wires adjacent to the traveler, especially along long distances, smaller voltages can be induced in the traveler itself.
More important is to verify that you're using the correct configuration. With a 3-way switch, the line voltage comes in at one switch, and then the load is connected at the other switch. These smart switches can be installed at either end, but the wiring configuration is different depending on which end.
The diagram you show is correct for when you want to install the smart switch at the load end, and your summary of the operation of this configuration is consistent with that as well. But that doesn't mean that's actually where you installed the switch.
You should verify that what you believe to be the "load" wire is in fact the load wire, and not the line supply wire, and vice a versa. If it's not, i.e. if the wire you've treated as "load" shows 120V between it and neutral with your multimeter, then you've got the wrong diagram for where you are trying to install the switch.
If that's the case, then you can either install the switch at the other end of the circuit using the diagram you have, or find the diagram that corresponds to installing the switch at the line end of the circuit (it's probably a similar diagram, except that on the smart switch end, the "load" and T1 wires will be connected reverse from what you have).
I have installed a number of this sort of switch in my own house, and have found them to be reliable, but one has to be very careful to follow the instructions precisely.
If you're sure you've identified your wires correctly, and you're sure you're making all the connections correctly, then it's actually possible you have a defective switch. But you'll want to double- and triple-check everything just to make sure, before getting the switch replaced.


Will 220v 50 Hz BLDC Washing Machine work with 240v 60 Hz?

BLDC ? Normally when talking BLDC my thoughts go to Motors you are talking Brushless Direct Current [Brushless DC] motor. Which means that motor is controlled differently - Voltage is converted to DC and you either have a direct connection where voltage controls RPM or a VFD style motor controller that determines RPM.

Now back to that BLDC motor - it would be using a Controller to operate that motor - and as such depending on what type  of controller and how its supply circuits are it could over drive the motor - burn up both motor and controller.

In a washing machine the Motor is generally AC , but not always anymore..
Now on to the deal between 50Hz AC and 60Hz AC at 60 Hz your motor will run faster about 20% faster, you will use more power as well [see next paragraph for important information] - approximately 20% more.

You will also draw more current and might exceed the FLA [Full Load Amps] of the motor - what does that mean .. it means you will let the smoke out of the motor and the aroma will not be pleasant - nor the expense. They have yet to create any device to put the smoke back into a motor once it is blown and fried so you would need to buy a new motor. Now frying a motor if it goes up in flames while you went outside somewhere - perhaps your home burns with it.. is it worth saving a few pieces of silver IMO no.

Given that the unit you want is made in China I would imagine the FLA barely meets the requirements for the 50Hz threshold - so at 60Hz you would exceed the FLA.

In short - Don't do this..

EDIT 12/13/2017
If you insist on doing this :
You can solve all the problems surges, brownouts and the voltage / frequency issue in another way.

Purchase a battery backup unit or Inverter of sufficient amperage to support operating your washer. 240VAC/60hz input 220VAC /50hz output.

Of course that might defeat your intent to save on costs..


Strengthen a Stud Wall for more Roof Support

I suggest that you hire a structural engineer for this situation. There's too many factors that go into this for both gravity and component and cladding forces. You also need 4 shear walls. Right now it looks like you only have the aspect ratio for 1.


Diagonal brace left in the basement by builder. Can I remove it? Replace it?

Yes, you can remove the brace because:

The wall is non-load bearing (not carrying a load)
The diagonal brace is not secured in a manner to transfer any load at the top or bottom
The diagonal brace is not secured to top plate
The diagonal brace is not secured significantly to vertical stud...the picture cuts off a portion of the brace that crosses the stud so I’d verify that
The diagonal brace is singular


No, this should not be happening & anything rusting out your system anywhere is a significant problem. Mine was installed, right, 6-years ago & I don't have any such thing. It could simply be colder outdoor air flooding that pipe or the space that the pipe runs in due to the exterior not being sealed shut to the outdoors. You may notice a cold section of floor above this pipe's area.

My other problem with your picture is that the pipe was dramatically enlarged & is not the smaller diameter which connects to the rusted gray collar. This should not be & is not helping matters nor is it allowing the system to run optimally & may very well be a violation of the Manufacturer's installation instructions.

Call or Email the Builder & put in a Warranty Claim. If the Builder doesn't respond immediately or timely. Then definitely, get an HVAC guy or firm out to inspect your system as well as this singular item's situation & correct whatever needs correcting. Then, ship a copy of the bill off to the Builder for immediate reimbursement.


As @digitalninja mentions, this is a constant current led driver. Unlike a variable current/constant voltage power supply, that attempts to keep the same voltage output regardless of the current pulled, a constant current supply will attempt to keep the same current, by varying the voltage.

It will, given a load like an led bulb, change the voltage until the current becomes 350mA. That could be a 24V 350mA led bulb/strip, or a 12V 350mA led bulb/strip, or whatever.

As such, you are looking for bulb that states it is that current draw within that voltage range.


How much load can these plastic cabinet things hold?

If they are like mine I would say over 100 lbs the pin is very strong, I have found the particle board to crumble or shelf break before the pin gave way , the ones that hold in place with the clips are great as they cannot fall out. There should be 4 pins  2 in each side.

Is that shelf in backwards? Mine the front of the shelf has a piece of laminate over the particle board.


Is this a load bearing wall to put a storage door in?

In any case, you have to cut into the wall board to open up the space.  Once you open a hole, you can inspect the inside and better determine if it is a load-bearing wall.  I suspect it is not.

If it is, you can limit your opening(s) to the space between the studs, or frame in a header from the inside to remove a stud.


Where does the C wire connect in a dual transformer system?

In a "common ground" dual transformer system the commons (or "ground") for the heating and cooling transformers must be connected to each other and supplied to the thermostat through a single connection at the "C" terminal.  In this arrangement, it is very important to keep the Rc and Rh (power from the cooling and heating transformers) separated and the thermostat must be designed and installed to handle separate heating and cooling power supplies.  If the commons for the two transformers are not connected, then a single thermostat will not be able to control both the heating and the cooling units unless you install separate control relays that are all actuated by either the heating transformer or cooling transformer along with the thermostat (typically the heating transformer is used as the power supply in this case).  If the two transformer commons are isolated in this arrangement then, yes, each common for the cooling and heating are only for the cooling and heating units, respectively.  This could not be called a "common ground" system, however.

As a general rule, provided the heating transformer has a sufficiently large VA rating, I would recommend disconnecting the separate cooling transformer and instead power all the controls from the heating transformer only to reduce the possibility that someone will accidentally use an incompatible thermostat or cross separate Rc and Rh supplies in the future.


Are molds dangerous to health if they are not in my own apartment?

Most molds are harmless, or are at most an allergen. There are a fairly small number which are toxic to one degree or another.

So a lot of the fear you see is overreaction, or is folks with serious allergies. If you aren't allergic, and don't have reason to suspect that this is one of the nasty ones, it's mostly an eyesore.

The real problem is that, once established, mold can be very hard to get rid of short of ripping out any material it has grown into. A bit of dampness and old spores can bounce right back.


What's the proper way to bond metallic signal wiring raceway?

You probably don't need to go full RMC; cheaper EMT and plain stamped handy-boxes will do.  Both types of conduit are acceptable as grounding paths for 200A++ of fault current, your milliamps of signal noise will be handled with ease.  I never run ground wires inside EMT.

If you have a section of Conduit isolated from mains grounding, grounding it is simplicity itself.  There should be a hole in the back of the box tapped #10-32.  You simply put a 10-32 screw in there, shepherd's hook a 12AWG solid pigtail to it, and wirenut that to your grounding wire, any color you like as long as it's green, yellow/green or bare.

Then you exit the wire through a cable clamp or grommet, which fits in a standard knockout.

Then you run the wire in-wall to whichever ground point you deem appropriate.  If you'd like guidance on that, look at the NEC rules for retrofitting ground.


Deciding whether to replace missing shingles or the entire roof

It is possible to replace individual shingles when some become missing but there are factors to consider before deciding to replace the whole roof covering.

Percentage of the total number of shingles that are missing.
What is the age of the current roof covering.
Type of shingles be they asphalt, wood, clay tile, metal or other type.
Are shingles a type that are spot glued in place.
Do other shingles overall look to be in good condition.
Are spare replacement shingles of the same style/color available.
Is roofing currently installed over one or more older shingle layers.
Is replacement cost a factor.
Would replacement with another shingle type be desired.


How much indoor condensation is too much?

If the windows are original to the house and are single pane and not insulated glass units, you are going to have a lot of condensation on the inside on cold days. If it only fogs and don't run off, I consider that normal for non-insulated glass.


How could I address this dead space between my stair case and this wall?

I think I'd go with part of my original answer, but leave the railing as-is. Take the balusters out for all treads above the new wall. Replace the treads and risers with longer ones that extend all the way to the wall, closing the gap. Replace the balusters. Done deal. I wouldn't even mess with the framing.

You'll have a little bit of wasted tread space along the wall, but it'll be much less odd than a deep gap. The lowest riser would notch over the wall over the new doorway. It looks like a very clean situation from here.

[original answer]

Were it my home I'd return the handrail into the wall and widen the five upper stairs to the wall, filling in as appropriate above the bathroom door casing to the first wide tread.

I can't see what's going on with the soffit/ceiling above the lower hall, but you might also be able to extend the wall above the bathroom door to meet the stairs, and either terminate the railing there or run it past/above the wall, which will either have a ledge at the top or run all the way to the high ceiling.


When is variable speed important in an angle grinder?

When shopping for an angle-grinder, how important is variable speed?

The importance is use dependent. I think that using different disks (grinding, sanding, cutting, brushing, etc.) is a satisfactory way to get the most use from the grinder. I've never had any desire for a grinder that would go a different speed. Actually, I think that controlling the grinder is probably easiest at top speed.

For which uses?

Generally a grinder is used for working with steel, in which case one speed is fine (that's what I have- no complaints). I have also used it for sanding patches of concrete; dust is a little problem, if/when it gets in the motor (maybe it should be wrapped with a rag-filter- but don't let the rag get caught in the wheel, or else). I suppose that if you are an artist or you're using a grinder for high precision, or on delicate or soft material, I could understand wanting the grinder to go more slowly, but then again, maybe not.


Is there any reason not to tile right over a freshly-laid block-and-beam subfloor?

This is a first time I see such a way to build a subfloor, it's not common in a country of my origin. It seems, however, that concrete blocks are not simply a filler here (as in other types of ceiling/floor structures), they can bear loads and play load-bearing part.

That said, I can still think of several reasons to put the concrete layer on top of the structure:
1. the layer will fill all the cracks and defects of the structure (You asked about tile mortar - it's more expensive to use it instead of a concrete)
2. the layer (properely laid) will level all the subfloor to stand for a good base for tiles
3. the layer will distribute dynamic loads better than a floor without it to prevent single-tile cracking
4. if it's a subfloor over the ground, then You will need some moisture insulation and thermal insulation (ask google for proper layer order), I presume that it will go between a structure and the concrete layer

I encourage other SE users to correct me if I'm wrong here.


Wiring existing 3 Way Switch in basement stairs that was cut

Maybe the reason J Box 1 and J Box 2 were empty is that the previous owner gave up trying to get it to work. If so, this would indicate the problem is in the cables.

If J Box 2 is in a position where a light would be installed, then the circuit was most likely originally intended to be wired like this:

(Put black tape or black paint on the ends of the white wire in the 3-wire cable to indicate that it has been re-purposed as a switched hot.)

If you wire it like this and it doesn't work, then there is probably something wrong with the 3-wire cable, Disconnect everything from the 3-wire and test all the wires for continuity. Make sure all the wire-nut connections are tight - this is where I have the most trouble in my house.


Running low voltage wiring around HVAC equipment

Use screw mount zipties, and attach them to the metal ductwork with sheet metal screws. To repeat what Harper said, do not ziptie your low voltage wires to electrical conduit or cables.


Who makes this shower faucet handle (logo identification)?

A very helpful support contact at Moen managed to put me in touch with someone at Amati Canada, who suggests that it is an "American Sole" unit. I can't find any information that suggests that's a manufacturer, or a line of products or anything -- so I can't corroborate, but at least I may be on the path to finding out who makes it.

Incidentally, in the meantime, I managed to find a workaround for repairing the part that was broken (I found a small plastic bit that sits firmly in the recess and can be screwed on, acting as a sort of bridge between the screw and the cap, so that when you turn the cap, it turns the handle again). It's not a perfect fix, but it's more than adequate for my needs. If I can get the part replaced, I may still, but it's nice to have options.


How to secure a jack wall to an existing wall?

You have to notch your roof rafters (birdsmouth) at the bottom and at the top so that the rafters can sit on the plates. You'll then nail from each side to secure it to wall plates. Familyhandyman has a diagram on what this is.

For the jack studs, you'll need a top and bottom plate for it so you can nail/screw the bottom plate to the top plate of the existing wall.

Once the siding, roof and rafters are put on it'll be secure. I live in a hurricane prone area and I built my shed similarly and it has so far withstood a few hurricanes.


Can I combine two power lines from power company

There are 2 questions here:

Can you convert one panel to a sub panel so that both sides are on the same service

Probably. You should be able to get an electrician to do this. It won't require ripping out any existing wiring and shouldn't be too expensive - though some big (expensive) wire needs to be run between the panels.

Can you connect the wires before the meter to get twice as much service capacity

I don't think so, but anyways this is none of your business. Call the electric company and tell them you want to cancel one service and upgrade the other. They will charge you the same whether they run new wires or not.


You already tagged the answer.  Epoxy is fine for food content.

Food feedstock tanks are painted with epoxy paint, that's what you use for that. (We're talking genuine 2-part epoxy paint, not hardware store 1-part paint that has chunks of already-cured epoxy in it for marketing purposes.  No one will sell consumers uncured epoxy if there's a remote chance you might spray it.)

Steel cans are lined with epoxy (if you recall the fuss about BPAs, BPA is a common curing agent in epoxy; it should be fully consumed in the curing process unless the mixing is botched.)

Getting the epoxy to adhere to the broken parts is a real problem.  Even if it adheres, it may be stronger than the native material, which if deteriorated, would simply break again at the boundary layer or someplace else.  I would say "sand it flat" but then you'll lose the thread sync.

You may be wasting your time if the material is deteriorated.

At that kind of price you ought to be able to consult the factory? They may have deprecated the whole assembly and have a replacement.   Or they may simply say "tough beans, this is a top end product like Beats headphones, not made to be repaired."   In that case they must have prototyped it from something; I would search Grainger, McMaster-Carr etc. for similar components in metal and food-grade.


You'll have to run four conductors, two ungrounded (hot) conductors, one grounded (neutral), and one grounding (earth) conductor.

At the garage you'll have to install a grounding electrode (ground rod, etc.), and bond the panel and grounding conductor from the feeder to it.

You'll then have to isolate the grounded (neutral) bus bar and conductors, from the grounding bus bar, conductors, and panel.


Any tips for using an open hearth fireplace?

It is correct that the fireplace draws all its input air from the room (tho' some modern fireplaces are designed with separate input feeds thru the brickwork, which means only that they burn just fine with a sealed glass door in front).  If you can find one, get a log support which includes a row of "C" - shaped tubes which take in air, heat the air due to proximity to the flames&logs, and exhaust that air back into the room rather than up the chimney.
Here is one example. Sadly,  not cheap enough (probably) to be worth buying just for your short stay.   grate heater


Suitable surface to cover old harvest table for use as desk

You can buy plastic deskmats. For example, I have some that are about 2-foot by three-foot. These are suitable for writing on unless the underlying surface is extremely uneven. The old-fashioned alternative was leather or blotting paper (in a "desk-blotter").

Otherwise I'd use a sheet of attractive wood of some kind, planed flat and edge-jointed to whatever size seems appropriate. Finished to taste (e.g. varnish). You'd still cover it for writing.

The cheapest is a pad of paper (e.g. 50 A4/Letter sheets with a cardboard back).


I would use a wet saw. The least expensive one at home centers is around $70. That will give you clean cuts. Scoring and snapping has always been stressful for me because some would not break cleanly and I would be worried about running out of tile. I would only put score and break cuts at the edges where they are covered up (floor tiles). When mounted on a wall where the cuts are visible, I would definitely recommend a wet saw.


Remove and re-insert female threaded insert?

Cut the rod to the desired length. Then get a rotary tool like a Dremel with a cutoff disk. Cut the tubing that holds the insert lengthwise down to the surface of the insert. Make three or four cuts. Then pry the tubing apart with a slotted screwdriver, freeing up the insert. Slightly chamfer the inside edge of the shortened length of tubing and tap/pound the insert into the tubing.


Any issue connecting neutral and ground of bluetooth light switch to ground (or neutral)?

You have an old-style switch loop configuration, with no neutral in the box, just hot, switched, and ground.  This means that you'll have to take your "smart" light switch back and find one that does not need a neutral wire.


Is there software that can optimally determine how to cut sheets of plywood for a project?

I have used Cut List in the past when building speaker enclosures.


Prevent Rodent incursion along a retaining wall

I think you are barking up the wrong tree on your ideas.  Either buy and keep a Dash Hound; They have been used for generations to mitigate rodent infestation.  And they have a great time too.  Or consult a pro about the safe use of a rat poison regimen.


I am building a laundry room in the basement. Do I need a drain?

You will need a standpipe for the washer to drain into, and a floor drain.  You will also want to make sure the finished floor slopes slightly towards the drain.

The standpipe should be obvious - if you don't have that the washer will just shoot water out the back when it drains.  Make sure it is vented properly.

You need the floor drain for when the washer leaks.  Washers can leak for a lot of reasons and they can dump a lot of water quickly - you don't want that water finding its way under the flooring, into the walls, and into any adjacent rooms.


LG LSC27910sb refrigerator freezer door water line broken

I see what you mean, I couldn't find anything either. That black collar looks like a push-in connection. See if you can get LG on the phone or a Chat on their website to walk you through extracting it first.

Plan "A" would be to remove the hose after the split & cut a new end at or before the split to just shove it in & be good as new. It's likely very similar to a Sharkbite connection. Where you may have to insert a thin tiny flathead screwdriver (or 2) or a plastic or metal sleeve into that collar about an inch to push up the locking rings for the hose to actually just fall out.


Two switches, one turns both lights on, the other just one of them

This isn't as hard as it seems at first

From your truth table, Light A is an OR of Switch 1 and Switch 2 (aka the motion sensor), while Light B is controlled by Switch 1 alone.

Since power is coming in at Switch 1, we can simply run a 5-core cable between the two switches as you have already done, then standard 3-core (twin&earth) to each light from the second switch location.  At the first switch, the incoming live is connected to both poles of the switch as well as to the live wire in the 5-core cable going onwards, while the two switched wires go to the two poles of the switch.  All the neutrals connect to each other, and all the grounds connect to each other as well, of course.

At the second switch aka the motion sensor, the motion sensor's line side connection goes to the incoming live, while the motion sensor's load side connection connects to both the live feed to Light A and to one of the switched wires from the first switch.  The other switched wire from the first switch then is hooked to the live feed to Light B, while the neutrals connect to each other and the grounds connect to each other as usual.

If you are feeding Light B from Light A, by the way, you'll need a four-core cable to carry the two switched lives from the second switch to Light A, of course.


Can I use #10 wire instead of #12 when wiring a new house?

Yes, since #10 wire can handle more amperage than #12, #10 wire would be a suitable substitute for #12. However, since #10 is larger and less flexible than #12, you may have a wiring device or junction box space issue.


I would spend the time to scrape it off. This will increase the contact area between the studs and the drywall, which in turn will give better stability. Stability is important because if there is any free play, the screws will move, and may eventually show through the paint.

There are various scrapers available in your local home improvement store, in the paints/brushes section. If adhesive proves hard to remove, use mineral spirits or any type of adhesive remover you can find.

I also found that a reciprocating saw with a scraping attachment can be efficient.


Can I add insulation on the outside of a bedroom wall adjacent to garage attic?

Yes, you can, and yes, your builder should have done, and should do now for free, having failed to do it when they should have during construction.


How can I improve the directional flow of my furnace exhaust pipe?

Extending the exhausts (to the roof or around the corner) seems the only reasonable solution to me.

Check the installer's manual to see if it needs to be in 3" for the new distance length.


Why is there a minimum distance to a corner from a direct vent exhaust?

Item #4 is referring to turbulence.

Wind does not blow smoothly past a building. It will twist and curl on the leeward side. This curling effect could “push” air back the wrong direction near the corners of buildings.


How does fresh air get inside a house with central heating other than through cracks of door or window on a cold winter day

It depends on the home, and the system. Neither of which you've provided much information.

Older homes are usually drafty enough to provide adequate combustion air, so dedicated intake are not required.  Modern homes tend to be sealed up much tighter, and often require air intakes.

Sometimes systems are installed in a utility closet, or other space where makeup air can't be drawn from surrounding areas in the home.  In these cases, an air intake will also be used.

Some modern furnaces actually draw air from outside, directly into the unit. This reduces the amount of cold dry air that is pulled into the home.

If you're simply concerned about the quality of the air entering the home, it's possible that you could install a filter on the intake. Though you'll have to make sure you don't restrict the amount of air being drawn in.

If you don't have carbon monoxide detectors in the home, you'll want to install some.


Can I cut a hole in a 2" x 8" joist that is less than 1/3 the height of the joist, leaves at least 2" above and below the hole, but is 10" wide?

A wooden beam like used for a joist will typically face bending loads. You'll have a great deal of compressive stress on the top of the beam and a great deal of tension stress on the bottom beam. The center serves primarily to keep the top and bottom of the beam aligned so they act as a single beam, and is under shear stress parallel to the grain.

As such, a hole like you pictured (in the center vertically and horizontally) will probably be fine.

I'd be leery of doing that closer to the end of the joist because if the shorter remaining center portion of the beam (hole to end of joist) was too short it could fail in shear and the top and bottom of the 2x10 would act as independent 4" beams (weak).

I'm not a structural or mechanical engineer, who would obviously be more qualified to determine this, but I am an engineer.


Would adding fiber glass insulation between a window and a standart plastic insulation cover help insulate the windows further

Insulating the inside of your windows will have at least one direct consequence: the effective R-value of the overall window will be increased.  That is, less heat will radiate through the window.  This will have a warming effect during the heating season (ie, when it's cold outside) and a cooling effect during the cooling season (ie, when it's warm outside).  The magnitude of this effect can only be roughly estimated so you probably won't really know how much of an improvement this is without trying it.

This will result in a secondary consequence.  The window itself (mainly the glass) will be closer to the outside temperature than the inside temperature.

During the heating season, this means it will be cold (how cold depends on your climate, of course; it shouldn't get colder than it is outside).  If you live anywhere but a dry climate, this probably means it will be below the condensation point and water from the house will condense on the glass (then run down to the sill).  Chances are, over a long enough period of time, this will result in water damage to the window and nearby wall.  If it is cold enough where you live, some of this water may freeze which could result in more immediate damage from the expansion-contraction cycle.

Conversely, you will also be constructing a miniature greenhouse.  When the sun shines on the window from the outside, it will heat up the air  space between the inside glass and the insulation.  There's no extra energy coming from the sun in this case but you're concentrating it into a smaller mass (the air in the gap).  If ambient temperatures in your climate are high enough or the window is situated to get a lot of full sun, and depending on the construction materials of the window, temperature in this air space could get high enough to damage the window.  This doesn't seem extremely likely but it might be possible given just the right circumstances.

Now, set thoughts of R-value aside.  A common problem around windows is air sealing.  That is, they make a room cold when it's cold outside not because of heat radiating through them but because of cold air blowing in through holes (or warm air blowing out).  These effects can be just as important as those due to low R-value windows.  Fiberglass insulation will do essentially nothing to improve this situation.  Air blows right through fiberglass.  The plastic sheets you put up over the window may already have dealt with this part of the problem, depending on how well you've managed to seal around the window with those.

If you really don't plan to use the window as a window, your best bet is probably to rip it out and replace it with an insulated wall.  Or perhaps with some higher-quality windows and some drapes that you can be happy with.


Locating a leak, water on top of kitchen cabinents, under two bathrooms and drain stack

Options include looking for discoloration on surrounding areas and even putting a paper towel or Kleenex in suspect areas in order to detect a small leak that may not have been sufficient to create noticeable discoloration.  Depending on the volume, you may be able to hear dripping in order to help trace the leak.  And you may wish to reconsider whether the initial diagnosis was correct or whether the repair was sufficient.

Here are three causes that weren't obvious to us that you may wish to consider:

(1) Around the tub spigot: We had a situation in which we had a leak from a bathroom on the ceiling of the dining room beneath it.  We re-caulked the tub and shower surround, did a small test, didn't see any water leaking, and thought we'd taken care of the problem.  The next time someone showered the leak reappeared.  We eventually figured out that the problem was around the spigot: Water from the shower was hitting the spigot, and because there was not a good seal around the spigot, water was running behind the spigot, down to the floor, and eventually into the dining room below.

(2) The actual copper supply line connections--if you're fortunate enough to have access to them without tearing out the wall: In another house, one with only one floor, we thought we had a leak in our shower pan, but during a remodeling discovered that the hot supply line had not been soldered correctly and water had been squirting out between the wall and eventually out through the brick in the adjoining exterior wall.

(3) Diversion due to insulation: We had another leak that we thought was due to a problem with the flashing between the roof and adjoining siding.  After tearing up the roof and the ceiling of the room being damaged, we discovered that the problem a poorly-sealed nail in the roof itself.  However, this location was several feet away from where water damage showed up.  In this case, the insulation directly below the small leak was sufficient to keep the water from running straight down.  Instead it wound around and into another room.


How to repair porch slab that has bricks embedded inside it

I'd shim a board neatly underneath the cement and brick overhang.
Use cinder blocks or bricks to jam a piece of pine somewhat longer than the break up against the solid cement, and pour fresh concrete into the resulting mold. Hit that brick with a steel brush on a drill before starting. It looks like it's going bad. You'll want to erode it down to a solid surface. Wear a dust mask.
Once the concrete has set, remove the wood and use an angle grinder disk to match the bevel of the rest of the cement. Angle grinder is best, but you can get away with a drill, and any number of grinding bits. Again, a dusk mask is essential. Paint the new cement after a month or so, so everything matches.


Recipe for a weak concrete mix suitable for patio substrate and similar work

I think you’re confusing “weak concrete” with paving substrate.

If you use a “weak” concrete mix, it will harden. Then, with any settlement it will crack and pieces will shift.

However, if you use a “crushed” rock gravel fill, it will bind together yet remain flexible so it doesn’t crack and be displaced over time from loads, etc.

Both can be removed in the future when your plans change.

I’d recommend a 3/4” minus crushed rock. This gravel is comprised of various size rock that has been crushed from what can fall through a 3/4” sieve down to sand. These particles will bind together like a “solid rock”, yet will flex.

When you install the “mix” make sure you compact it in about 6” thick lifts or less.


What are cheap ways to build strong shelves with a large span?

I'd use plywood with a thicker piece of hardwood glued onto the front edge. This gives you very good strength. Here is an online calculator I use to find what kind of materials you can use and the amount of sag you will have. Here's a good quote from the author of the site.

  “The eye will notice a deflection of 1/32″ per running foot.”

The sagulator


When to recess a lag bolt in lumber, vs. using a lag screw?

Simply, a bolt is not relying on the holding strength of the threads in wood fiber.  It is a metal-to-metal sandwich that is holding boards together from both sides.  A bolt connection will normally be stronger than a lag screw, but that increased strength is often not needed, and access to both sides of the joint is not always possible.

If there is any question about the holding strength of the wood, a bolt is a better choice.  If the wood isn't very dense, or if it could get wet and soft (like an outdoor swingset), or if you need the maximum amount of strength then choose a bolt.

If the wood is solid and you don't have access to both sides, a lag screw is a proven solution.


You can either replace the slides with a soft closing model, or you could possibly shoe horn in a damper piston like this one made by Blum.

They work in the same way as the ones in your link (those are made to attach to a hinge) but it can be recessed into a block or, in theory, drilled into a drawer side. The process would be to attach the piston in whatever fashion works with the pin pointed to the back of the cabinet. When you close the drawer the weight and momentum compresses the piston before it contacts the end of the slides travel, effectively softening the landing. You may have to apply a block on the back of the cabinet to give the piston a place to contact at the correct depth relative to the position of the drawer when it's fully closed.


How can I pull up tack strips nailed to concrete?

Jim and Taylor are correct.

Use a small pry par because it is not as thick and will get under the tack strip better. Hold the the long straight part or the pry bar and place the curved end so that the but is against the floor and the wedge part is up against the tack strip directly in front of the nail. Whack the the curved part of the pry bar with a hammer, it usually only takes one or two hits to pop up the nail.

It helps to hold the bar at an angle so the bar goes under the strip and to  not hit to hard, sometimes you can drive the end of the bar into the wall or trim if you get to aggressive.

Do not pry up once the nail is free as this will splinter or break the strip at the next nail location, just continue whacking all the nails and when you get them all the whole tack strip will be free and easy to dispose of.


Are there any differences in the quality of products sold at contractor's supply store vs. big box hardware stores?

The first thing you need to understand about "allowances" on any building job is that those are usually way too low to equip the real wants of the buyer. When talking lighting, most lighting supply houses have a "spec" line of fixtures that contractors use to figure the allowance. They are typically the least expensive fixture for the application. When you go in to select lights, you are usually seeing consumer list prices, not the actual price us contractors pay. You could easily pick out nicer designer models and spend 3 or 4 times the amount in your allowance. This is common.  The smart consumer would take the discount and shop your fixtures for what you want at the price you want to pay.  The box stores obviously don't carry the real upscale designer lines, but most of the products are very serviceable, good quality, contemporary popular styles and should last you years. If you are a good internet shopper, you can find high end lighting, solid brass, brushed nichol, stainless, crystal glass, etc at very reasonable prices. Always remember, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder!!!


It depends on how much height difference more than length of hose.  For a couple feet of lift, you can use a fountain pump.  But if you need more speed and more lift, then a submersible utility pump will work.  Note that the utility pump may not be designed for long term use, they are typically used for draining something that has flooded and then going back into the tool shed.  And both expect that the other end is always open.

Depending on exactly how you plan to use this, a sump pump may be ideal to lift the water from a low barrel to a higher one, and then you can tap the higher barrel for your purposes, only opening the tap when needed.  You'd want to wire up the pump to automatically cutoff when the top barrel is full.


What is the proper way to power an in wall monitor for a new construction home?

Your current plan is no good -- first off, 400.8 point 1 forbids the use of cords as a replacement for permanent wiring (stuffing a cord down a conduit certainly counts, and is also prohibited explicitly by 400.8 point 6).  Second, 400.9 prohibits the splicing of cord during installation.  Third, wire splices need to be in a junction box so that they can be serviced in the future.

A better plan would be to bring the conduit out to the receptacle box where you plan to tap power, and then stuffing NM through the conduit (yes, this is OK).  At the box end, you'd simply tie it into the rest of the wiring as you would ordinarily (using pigtails and wire nuts if they aren't already present there).  At the monitor end, you'd attach a field-fittable IEC C13 connector directly to the NM cable and plug it into the monitor (you may need a right angle connector here -- make sure it accepts 14AWG as not all do).

Your other option is to use a recessed receptacle in a junction box mounted at the monitor end of the conduit, and plug the monitor's cord into it.  This requires that the cord either be exposed completely, or the monitor be readily removable (i.e. "take a few fasteners off, remove a trim piece, and it comes out", not "oh, we have to tear into the wall to replace this") in order to apply 400.7(A) point 8.  It also requires a way to get the cord to the recessed receptacle, considering you can't bury the junction box + receptacle in the wall.

Given that you are dealing with an AC adapter -- the recessed receptacle approach is the superior one (I don't believe you can get the smaller IEC connectors to fit on 14AWG anyway!).  The main issue will be finding a pairing of recessed receptacle and shallow box that will fit together while accepting the PVC conduit.  I'd start with a P&S P108W as that box is only 1.125" deep, leaving 0.375" for the cable and faceplate, and see what recessed receptacles work with it -- the silly folks at Leviton don't publish a dimensional drawing for the 689-W linked above, so I can't tell from here if it fits or not.  (Drilling a 1/2" conduit KO in the above box should be OK btw -- the FS-type boxes that are designed to fit conduit are all too deep for this job.)

Oh, and if you do use the recessed receptacle approach, you'll probably need to finish out the monitor-alcove with some half-inch drywall back-to-back with that plywood backplate, using screws and standoffs to mount the electrical box.  (Boxes that stick out from their surroundings are kosher by Code.)  Of course, the only way any of this will work is if the cavity in the monitor will fit all of the cabling as well as the transformer and the J-box.


How to open bathroom light cover to replace bulb?

Answered by OP in comments:

  I did it! There is something like a little groove at the side - at the connection between black and white parts - wherein I slotted a screwdriver, twisted it, and the light cover pulled off. Eureka! – Lukman Dec 17 '16 at 12:16


Smell like fish oil coming from cupboard with hot water tank

by fish oil smell, do you mean a smell of sulfur? if so, it could be that the pressure relief valve is opening or the tank is leaking in some manner, and the heated water is releasing a sulfurous odor. look for any signs of leaking water.

a common place for a water heater to leak is the pressure relief valve. if the relief valve is leaking or opening, check the water pressure and the thermostat. high water pressure can force open the relief valve and a thermostat set too high or malfunctioning can cause over pressure. if there is a one-way valve near the inlet side of the water heater, that could prevent the water from expanding back and forcing water out the pressure relief valve.


Assuming this is a faucet that fits variable widths, each tap has screws underneath the sink which allow you to adjust the height of the tap relative to the sink.  The exact technique used to adjust the height varies, but generally in my experience you have to:

Loosen the locking screws/nuts - these lock the larger nut in
place (if you have any)
Adjust the height of the faucet with the large nut under the sink
Tighten the locking screws/nuts again

As for why this could happen - changes in ambient temperature could have caused a slight adjustment in the height of the faucet above the sink - so the bottom of the tap could be turning against the sink where it didn't before.  (This happened to me with both my hot and cold taps at different times.)

Here's an example of what they look like - these are my own faucets.  Each tap has a brass ring holding it in place right under the sink, and two locking screws that lock the brass ring in place.  The height of the tap is set by turning the brass ring.


How do I wire a GFCI switch/outlet receptacle?

Based on your description, you cannot do what you want unless you run additional conductors.

It sounds like all you have in the box is a switch loop. Meaning you have a wire coming "from" the fan, and a wire returning "to" the fan.  The wire "from" the fan will be electrified, while the other wire will only be electrified when it's connected to the electrified wire through the switch.

In a setup like this there's no neutral in the box, so you can't install a receptacle. If you replaced the cable between the fan and the switch, you could use a cable with an extra wire. That would allow you to included the required neutral.


Edit:
I hadn't quite realized the pump draws 8 A at 110 V, which would mean 125 A at 12 V. The wire gauge is thick enough for that (4 gauge is 20 mm2) but not by a wide margin. At these power levels, minimizing the resistance is critical, all connections have to be perfect.

To doublecheck the wiring: measure the voltage

between the battery terminals
on the input of the inverter
on the output of the inverter

all while the pump is running. A difference between 1 and 2 indicates a wiring problem. If 3 is much lower than the rated voltage, that will cause the inverter to shut down.

Have you checked if the battery is properly charged? A voltage drop like that can indicate the battery is almost empty. When it's not providing a current, battery voltage will look okay, but voltage will drop rapidly when current is drawn.

If the pump really draws 880 W, that's a pretty big load (comparable to a starter motor), and on the edge of what a battery can supply. So that may be part of the problem.


Why does my circular saw motor turn but the blade does not?

It is very likely, that the fixating screw/disk is loose. Do not operate the saw in this state. It is dangerous.

A circular saw usually has a direct drive. I.e. the motor spindle is also the center shaft for the blade. So if your motor is spinning, but not the blade, it means the blade has lost contact to the shaft.

Check if the blade is properly centered and aligned with all locating pins (if your saw has some). Then fixate the screw using the appropriate wrenches.


There are no rules for routing cabling other than it must be protected from damage and properly strapped down. However, you question opens up another problem.

First if you light power is coming from the switch you do not have a hot wire in the fixture.

Second the NEC 210.52 (D) states that the receptacle should be within 36" of the basin but not over the basin.

Third NEC 210.11 (C) (3) Requires the GFCI receptacle to be a 20A dedicated circuit. Exception, if the 20A circuit is only  feeding one bathroom you can connect the light and the exhaust fan to the same circuit.

Hope this helps


GFI outlets not working - resets working

Quite a few GFCIs have a light that comes on when the GFCI has been tripped. You should press the Reset button.

If the outlet refuses to reset it has gone bad and will need replacing.


If you're in the US, this is NOT correct.
Enclosure not bonded
The bonding strap on the right side of the panel (when looking at the panel), should be moved to the left side. It should be connected to the enclosure using the green screw, and the tab should be connected to one of the grounding bar's terminals.

Double tapped neutral bar
On the neutral bar, only a single conductor can terminate per screw terminal. You've got two wires per terminal, which is not allowed.

Neutral and grounding conductors not separated
In a secondary panel, the grounding conductors and "neutral" conductors must be kept separate.
You should move the grounding conductors, and terminate them at the grounding bar instead.

Neutral and grounding bars not separated
You should also remove the bonding conductor that is connecting the grounding and neutral bars together.  (Thanks @ArchonOSX).

Unprotected wiring
I'm not sure what's going on at the top of the enclosure, but it looks like you've got some conduit work to finish up.

NOTES:

The main panel photo is fuzzy, so I can't tell what size breaker is feeding the second panel. You also didn't mention the size of the conductors between the panels. So I can't say for sure if you used the proper size conductors.
It also looks like you connected the ground to the neutral bar in the main panel, and the neutral to the ground bar.  Not such a big deal, since they're bonded in the main panel.
This answer is based on National Electrical Code 2014.


Do not plug anything that has a big motor (like a washer) into a GFCI outlet.

Motors have big surge circuit controllers that can cause unpredictable imbalances in line load that will trip a GFCI even though there is no current leakage.


The other answers not withstanding, please keep in mind that a glossy finish will probably be more slippery when it is wet (maybe even when it is still dry). This  may be why you are having a hard time finding a glossy deck finish. I think you will find that surfaces that are great for traction and safety (rougher, sandpaper like) will be the exact opposite of what you need for a great gloss finish and vise-versa.


Leviton Dimmer 3 way remote switch only turning off

As you seem to know, the "bare" wires, along with any green or yellow/green wires, are always and only Equipment Safety Ground. They get used for nothing else.

How the 3 wires must be allocated

NEC 110.3(B) requires you install the light switches according to the instructions.  This is not optional.  Since Reading the Fine Manual is mandatory, you see the "3-way configuration" diagram plainly shows 3 wires (other than ground).  Two of their uses are obvious. The third appears to be some sort of communication wire that runs only between the units.   So, in the /3 cable between switches, we must allocate the wires as follows:

White MUST be neutral.  (NEC 210.something) and it always connects to the WH (silver) terminal on both smart switches. (It also goes onward to the lamp).  That's done!
Always/line/supply hot traverses the /3 cable. The conventional color for that is black, so let's stick to that. This goes to the BK terminals on both smart switches. Done and dusted.  We will not revisit this again.
The remaining wire (shown in the instruction as a thru-wire) is Yellow/Red and is the communications wire that runs only between the switches.  The only wire we have left to allocate is the Red wire in the /3, so that is that.  It connects to the YL/RD terminal of each smart switch.   I am super fond of yellow tape for travelers, and while this isn't a traditional traveler, its code is yellow-red, so it's too perfect to resist marking with a yellow band!

We have now assigned all the wires in the /3 cable.  Pretty straightforward once you figure out which wires are needed, assign tasks to the wires in the wall, and color-code them for purpose.

One last wire to connect: the hot wire to the lamp, which is switched-hot.  That wire could be re-marked red, which is the conventional color for switched-hot.  That goes to RD wire on the master dimmer.  Piece of cake!

Wait a minute! The RD terminal is in one box, and the wire's in the other!

Because the smart switches are not in the right boxes. Switch them.


Options for restoring or otherwise utilizing old chimney

I would really suggest that you should hire a local expert to come out to your place to give you advice on the chimney condition, design and safety. I am quite sure that there was good reason to cap off and close up the chimney and fireplace in the past and it is highly unlikely that you will come to an understanding of the reasons without some seasoned advice.

Some things to consider:

There was a time when many chimneys were built by laying in the bricks with damp sand that was mixed with lime and horse hair instead of regular cement bearing mortar. Aging by wind and rain could wash out this material in the upper part above the roof line leaving the bricks with open spaces from inside to outside.
Many old chimneys were built simply as a stack of bricks without any specialized flue liner at all. A good quality modern chimney would have a decent flue liner that was mortared in with a high temperature silica material that does not degrade with heat.
It is an art to design and build a chimney installation that will function well with a fire place. It is really impossible for anyone to evaluate your installation without being there first hand to attest to the the quality and design.

Advice on whether to use some type of natural gas fireplace insert with using the existing chimney as a holder for a vent stack will depend on several factors that cannot be ascertained without direct evaluation. Structural safety of the chimney would be one issue that I can think of. Another would be whether the chimney opening can accept the insertion of a vent stack of sufficient size (diameter). Yet another is the uncertainty of maintaining the joint integrity of the vent stack as it is assembled piece by piece, up to 40 feet total, and lowered down into the chimney from above.


The forms have a top. You temporarily attach something to the post that holds it at the proper height when sitting on the top of the form, and you set a couple of temporary wooden stakes at 90 degrees to each other from the form that hold diagonal braces that hold the post plumb, and leave all of those in place until the concrete sets. With aluminum posts this might involve a lot of clamps to hold the post to the braces and supports.


Post longevity:

Concrete, below frostline (varies with where you are), with a footing, reinforced with steel rebar kept 2" from the face of the concrete. Use brackets or pads to keep wood from touching concrete aboveground.

Hole: Cheap, or Lazy?

Cheap - post hole digger (clamshell type) or mattock and shovel (depends how hard the clay is when you try to dig the hole - will vary somewhat with water content through the year.)

Lazy - equipment - excavator/backhoe, power auger, etc. - note - power auger needs to be on a tractor or similar to really be lazy - the ones you hand-hold seem to be quite a workout to use. And always be sure you know what is below before digging - call digsafe for official marking before you start, and attempt to determine what private services you may have in the area such as plumbing lines, sprinklers, exterior lighting wires, etc.

Cheap and Lazy - You said a "ground level deck" so patio blocks right on the ground, no holes at all. If not quite that lazy a sand bed will help future performance of the surface some, but it may need to be taken up and regraded from time to time anyway.


Repairing electrical oven - appears to be broekn thermostat, but is not

It sounds as though the wires may be shorted together. When it comes right down to it the thermostat is just cutting or energizing power like a light switch so if the wires were to touch farther down the line the switch would be worthless. I would physically trace all the wires in the circuit to make sure they aren’t bridging the thermostat. You could take both wires off the heating element and see if you have continuity with an ohm meter. Continue up the line until you get OL and your short should be there.


It depends on the grounding setup.  The pocket tester creates a GFCI fault by using the ground wire.  If ground isn’t wired properly, weird stuff happens.
If ground is present and wired correctly:

the tester will light 2 yellow lights
the GFCI will trip

If ground is absent, and wired correctly (for ground being absent):

The tester will light 1 yellow light
The GFCI will not trip

If ground is illegally BOOTLEGGED to the outlet:

the tester will light 2 yellow lights
The GFCI will not trip

So it sounds like your tester is indicating that some son-of-a-Be-Nice-Policy decided to “bootleg” ground on those receptacles, specifically to fool an inspector running around with a tester.
Bootleg grounds are dangerous setups, and they are more dangerous with GFCI because the GFCI hides their hazard.  If you get between “hot” on that circuit and “bootleg ground” on that circuit, the GFCI will not protect you.


How do I lift a fitted carpet without damaging it?

You can pull carpet up off the tacking strip to do some work. It depends on how much of the carpet you're going to pull up. Carpet is stretched over tack strips using a kick stretcher or a power stretcher so if you pull the WHOLE carpet it you risk losing that stretch. I did some work under our carpet and wound up pulling up too much and had to hire a company to come out and re-stretch and tack it back down but if you're just pulling up a small corner you should be ok to just push it back down.

(Word of warning: when pushing the carpet back down on the tack strip, use a board to push it down, the tacks on the strip routinely go through the carpet and it hurts like all get out if it suddenly jams into your fingertip)

If the work is in the middle of the floor I've used a utility knife and made a lengthy slit in the carpet to do what I needed to and then called out a carpet install company to re-seal the carpet with a glue strip. After he re-glued the carpet and ran the seam blending tool over it it looked perfect. I would highly advise against nailing through the carpet, it creates an indent and doesn't look very good.


What to use for huge exterior window gaps?

I'd be tempted to try and get a piece of wood in there! Cut a piece over length and leave it out in the rain leaning against a wall etc. Wet wood will eventually bend (or you can encourage it over a couple of blocks by adding a bag of sand etc.) and get something the approximate curvature you're looking for and then cut it to length.

Not the quickest solution, but cement will crack up eventually as the window moves about through the seasons.

If it's too thick to bend naturally, (it looks to be on the upper limit at around 3/4 inch or so) you could laminate a piece up. Run some timber through a table saw to get 2 or 3mm thick strips and then glue them up over a former the same radius as the window. Again, not quick but oh, so pretty!


In the past what I have done is to isolate 1 room, generally in the basement, increase the heat to that room and open the window while running a fan.  In general, once I've closed the can and am only waiting for the piece to dry the fumes tend to get much less noticeable and I can start closing the window.

This method doesn't prevent fumes from reaching other rooms, since they can travel through the ducts or even under the door, and so on, but you can reduce those fumes by closing the house ducts to that room, putting a towel over registers/returns/bottom of door.

With this method you'll want a heater for the room.  I've used electric oil filled heaters but you'll just want to keep in mind that the fumes can be flammable, so keep your venting method running.


Hardwire Dishwasher Installation question

First and foremost follow the instructions included with your dishwasher. It will specify the electrical service required (probably 120V 15A circuit) and will have diagrams on how to make the connections. If you don't have the manual they are commonly available online. Find the model number on the side of the door or door frame.

Connect black to black (hot) and white to white (neutral) wires with an appropriate listed connector (e.g., wire nuts). These connections will sit inside a fire-retardant (usually metal) box built into the base of the dishwasher.

Inside that box you should also see a green or bare Cu wire attached to the box itself or some other means of bonding to the metal frame of the dishwasher (such as a clip or screw). Connect the grounding wire from your circuit to the metal frame here. This is an important safety feature to avoid an electrocution hazard. If you don't see how to make this grounding connection ask a more handy neighbor or hire a handyman to do it.


Why is the pilot on my GE water heater turning off when the burner turns off?

'Gusting" of the combustion air can be caused if the shrouding around the base of heater is loose or missing.  Such gusting can knock out the pilot.
Another cause of pilot extinguishing is a too rapid start up of the main burner.  Usually there is a small baffle around the pilot, protecting it.
Too high a pressure of the gas would also cause a too large main flame.  This would have to be checked at the meter by a qualified technician.  This, obviously, is a dangerous condition.  Other gas appliances (gas stove) might reveal this condition.
Conversely, too low a pressure (and therefore, low gas flow) might make the pilot more sensitive.

Once the pilot is knocked out, cooling of the gas valve thermocouple will prevent restarts.


Do I need a certificate of occupancy for each building on a single property?

Check with your local courthouse permit office. In our area you must have a certificate of occupancy for each separate building. The building must pass all inspection requirements and any fines/taxes on the property have to be paid.


Do hot water tanks have to be in the drain pan

The purpose of a drain pan is to contain small leaks that can lead to damage and can give you warning that there is a problem. This doesn't mean that it is necessary, however for 10$ - 20$ at your local hardware store you could have picked one up - worth the small investment. (I'm surprised that a plumber who is called to install a hotwater tank doesn't have an extra pan in his tool kit)

The tank doesn't look level from the pictures. Try taking a level, place it on the top of the tank.

Here is a guide on how to level a hot water tank.

  New water heaters or water heaters that are placed on an un-level surface, need to be leveled and shimmed for them to work properly.

Personally, I would go pickup a new drain pan, call the plumber back and have the pan installed. If the tank is not leveled, he can address this at the same time.

The question you asked is whether this installation is safe - the tank will probably sit there without incident for many years. The problem I'm having is that if it is not level, you will be possibly shortening the life of the tank, could be voiding a warranty and are not protected in the event of a slow leak.


Most all the newer furnaces there will be a 'Y' terminal at the furnace.  However, this 'Y' terminal does nothing at the furnace location. On the board, it is a connection point only. Essentially, the Y signal originates at the thermostat, travels on the yellow wire, passes straight through the furnace out to the starting contactor at the A/C condenser. That contactor at the condenser also needs the B/C from the furnace.  These High tech thermostats will also need a common, B/C wire as well as the normal control wires.


Is it proper and/or smart to independently ground an older 3 prong dryer outlet and upgrade it to 4 prong?

Yes, most definitely.  A few years ago NEC (the electrical code) was revised to allow this type of retrofit grounding.  There is no need for the ground wire to follow the same route as the conductors.

The ground wire needs to be 10 AWG and go to any of:

The ground bus on the same panel which the conductors come out of
The "grounding electrode system" out of that panel (i.e. the bare braided ground wire going from the panel to the water pipes or ground rods)
Any other circuit which itself has a 10AWG or larger ground wire going back to that panel

That last rule is important if you have other ungrounded outlets you aim to retrofit.  It means, plan this grounding run so those other circuits can tap it, because this run can be their path back to the panel.

Different circuits are allowed to share ground (in retrofit scenarios) because current only flows in the moment a device is having a ground fault (for as long as it takes for the breaker to trip, milliseconds in the case of a bolted fault) -- and nobody expects two different devices to fault at the same time.


How do I determine whether a permit is required for a new gas line?

You would need to find out who the authority having jurisdiction is. Often time, it is the city, county, or township where you are located. In some cases, it might be the state as well (in MN for electrical, for example).

The wording is a little ambiguous, however. They could mean:

You (the owner) pull the permit, but put down that the contractor is doing the work. This is not unheard of and probably fine. The contractor may be small and not want to deal with pulling the permit. This will then also indicate to you whether they are (or need to be) licensed to work where you are.
They want you to pull a permit as if you as the owner were performing the work. Do not do this. In this case, if something goes wrong with the job, you would be the one responsible for it. For example, after the work is done, the inspection reveals some issues that needs to be addressed. Do you think the contractor will not come and fix it if they've already been paid? Probably not. This scenario could also lead to issues when you sell the house.


Are water heater warranties really relevant quality of the product?

For water heaters, the warranty duration is an indication of approximately how long the included anode rod will last before it needs to be replaced to preserve its protective qualities. Since almost nobody replaces their water heater's anode rod, the number of years listed on the warranty can actually be taken to show about how long the unit will last. For example, a 6-year-warranty unit will probably have a warn-out anode rod in 6 years, so by year 7 or 8 it might leak if not replaced.

Longer warranties on glass-and-anode-rod units usually point to more and better anode rods. One aluminum rod would be the minimum (4-year warranty) while two magnesium rods would probably be the best (12 year warranty).

This implies that you can make your water heater last much longer than the warranty duration simply by replacing the anode rod(s) every such-and-such number of years, and this implication would be correct.

Or you can buy a unit with a stainless steel or plastic interior tank and no anode rod at all, most of which have a lifetime warranty. They're not much more expensive than the glass-lined tanks with aluminum or magnesium anode rods. The HTP/Westinhouse Everlast and Rheem Marathon are two such products.


Can I run 300 ft of cat6 cable, with male connectors on each end, under house to other side?

There are two issues, one trivially easy, one a big "maybe":
Don't Use a Patch Cable
Don't use a patch cable. Period. The reason is that patch cable ends break. Oh, I'll just crimp on another connector. Where did the good crimper go (only use it once every 5 years...)? Oops, got two wires swapped, I'll have to try again..., etc.
Far, far better to wire a jack on each end. Super easy. Punch tool is cheap, easy & reliable. Jacks are easy to mount securely to a wall, stud, etc. Then you use a short manufactured patch cable (I get them for ~ $1 each, retail price varies...) on each end to go to the router or other device.
It will cost you a few dollars (very few) extra at the beginning, but is the only professional way to do this.
Distance
The official limit is 328 feet between active devices - i.e., the long run plus the patch cable on each end. That is not based on "if you have really good cable, you could do better" (which was the case with RS-232 serial connections). This is based on the way the Ethernet signal works. Fiber is an option, but at a significantly higher cost.
If your run is really closer to 250 feet then I'd say "go for it". If it is 300 feet plus, then this becomes much more iffy. There are also line drivers and other things you can use to extend the distance, but if you get to that point but can actually run a cable (as opposed to a situation of relying on lower-quality (e.g., CAT 3) cable with no easy way to replace it) then fiber really is worth considering.


It might work - however the problem would be where the centre uprights join the horizontal sections.

This piece of ascii art might help:

||========||
||   ||   ||
||   ||   ||
||   ||   ||
||========||
||   ||   ||
||   ||   ||
||   ||   ||
||========||

Where "||" is the vertical sections and "==" the horizontal.

You'll end up with two sections like this:

||====    ====||
||   |    |   ||
||   |    |   ||
||   |    |   ||
||====    ====||
||   |    |   ||
||   |    |   ||
||   |    |   ||
||====    ====||

As you can see buy cutting up the centre you are cutting through the middle of the joints which will weaken the joints and they could come apart.

These joints are mortice and tenon and you could try strengthening them by putting a dowel through the tenon before cutting:

Drill all the way through, insert the dowel (with glue), plane and sand smooth. If you're painting the doors you won't see the join. To drill the hole straight you could use a portable drill guide or a plunge router.


Can I put a junction box in the ceiling accessible by removing a bath fan

You can drill a hole if there aren't enough knock-outs, but you still need to have enough room in there to make all joins you need.


There are seals inside the diverter which can be replaced. This may be an O-ring or a more complicated seal. Turn off the water at the valves. Unscrew the diverter stem and take it to a homestore or better to a plumbing supply.


The bladder has a leak in it, causing the tank to essentially fill with water. There is no room for air to go to charge the tank.

Replacing the tank is the cure.


Why is my toilet bubbling when other fixtures drain?

I'm with Hari Ganti on this one. Sounds like a venting issue. Improper or partially clogged vent pipe.


Use a Non-Metallic (NM) splice kit; these are allowed in a wall without a box, as per NEC 334.40(b). These run about $15.00, maybe more.
 A box can be accessible behind a panel designed to be removable, but a dishwasher would not meet that requirement for accessibility.

Added : tyco non metallic splice , 2 wire non metallic splice, 3 wire non metallic splice will all bring up the models available 14-21$ from what I saw today. I have a few, just in case I cut a cable in a wall.  I have no association with any of the mfg’s it is a product that has saved me time and $.


Where do I attach the grounding conductor to my bedroom light fixture?

It's not clear exactly what your situation is, and I'm not sure if you have a ground in the supply, or on the fixture, or both.  So I'll try to cover all possible situations.
No grounds
If there are not ground wires, do nothing. You're done.
Metal box
Ground in supply, ground on fixture
If there is a ground in the feeder cable, and a ground wire or screw on the fixture.  Attach both the supply ground and the fixture ground to the box, using either a green screw or a ground clip

If the ground screw, or clip is not rated to accept multiple wires (most aren't). Use a grounding twist-on wire connector to connect all the ground wires, then attach the pigtail to the box using a green screw or ground clip.

Ground in supply, no ground on fixture
If you have a metal box, a ground wire in the feeder cable, but no ground wire/screw attached to the fixture.  Attach the feeder ground wire to the metal box using a green screw or a ground clip.
In this case, when the fixture is attached to the box it should be bonded through the attachment method.
No ground in supply, ground on fixture
If there is no ground in the feeder cable, but there is a ground wire or screw attached to the fixture.  Attach the ground wire of the fixture to the box, using a green screw or ground clip.  In this situation the outlet may be feed with Type AC or MC cable, and the box may be grounded on the exterior of the box. Or the outlet may not be grounded at all, in which case the fixture ground is useless.
Nonmetallic box
Ground in supply, ground on fixture
If you have a ground in the feeder cable, and  a ground screw or wire on the fixture.  Use a twist-on wire connector, or crimp connector to connect all grounds together.
Ground in supply, no ground on fixture
If there is a ground wire in the feeder cable, but no ground screw or wire on the fixture. If a fixture strap is used, attach the ground wire to the fixture strap using a green screw or ground clip.

If a fixture strap is not used, leave the ground wire folder neatly in the back of the box.
No ground in supply, ground on fixture
If you don't have a ground in the feeder cable, but there is a ground wire or screw on the fixture.  Don't make any ground connections.


Why do I need such thick wires in household electrical installation?

However, as the existing installation and googling show, it is a common practice to use 2.5 mm2 or thicker wires for everything but lighting, and 1.5 mm2 for lighting. I wonder why? Aren't these standards outdated?

Home wiring has been standardized over the last 100 years. More and more loads are being added to receptacle circuits while lighting is actually becoming more efficient. This is why the lighting is normally done with smaller wire. This is reflected in your minimum size breaker at 16 amps for 1.5 mm2 wire. Ours here in the US is a 15 amp breaker with a #14 wire.

  Obviously for modern LED lighting, even 1 mm2 is ridiculously thick, based on such calculation.

However, this is sized for the entire circuit not for individual loads. So, since LED lighting does draw so much less power it just means you can now wire a house with many more lighting outlets on a single circuit. This frees up more circuits for the appliances that modern humans loves.

There is a method to the madness and if you spend enough time in the industry you will overcome the learning curve.

Have fun in your garden!


Why is my lawn sprinkler system timer on but not operating the valves?

You'd want to check the voltage at the valves to see if the controller is working correctly. If there's voltage, then the valve solenoid is probably bad and needs replacement. It's a common failure.


This is possible, but its not going to be cost effective unless you can do a majority of the work yourself.  The door pictured (and any door sold in the last decade) will have two layers of insulated glass.  This means that for what you want, you'll need a custom insulated panel made to fit on top of a wooden panel containing the doggie door.

There are companies that make door-glass-replacement packages for pets such as these:

From petdoors.com.

A more cost effective solution might be to use a single layer of thick glass as a replacement panel, but you would loose some insulation properties, and you'd need a wooden frame to hold it into the door (because its not as thick as the original).  Smaller pet doors are made to fit into a round hole cut into a glass door, providing a very clean install.  Larger 22" tall doors might not be an option for this method, but great for people with "cat flaps".

Last option I can think of is replacing the large panel of glass with a custom made divided-light panel made up of several small windows.  You may be able to find off-the-shelf insulated glass panels or have single pane glass cut more economically.  The doggie door would simply be framed in place of a lower glass panel.


Electric sump pump sometimes fails to engage / kick on

The float should travel freely up and down on a vertical rod.

As the float rises toward the top of its travel, it operates a switch.  This is the switch that turns on the pump.

Raise the float manually.  The switch should operate and the pump should turn on.  If it does not, it is the power supply, the switch or the pump.

It should be obvious just by looking at the float whether it is floating or not.


You need a plastic quick coupling.  Go to a professional plumbing supplier and buy a 5/16 x 5/16 Parker fitting. These are similar to Sharkbite fittings, but plastic and about half the size of the smallest Sharkbite. They come in 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 7/16.  A number of companies such as Celcon and John Guest make them, but Parker invented them so like Hoover for a vacuum, they are called 'Parkers'.
Simply cut your pipe right at the leak with a very sharp craft knife then fit each end into the straight fitting.


How to utilize Ethernet throughout my house

Edit: My answer is targeted to the very little information posted at the time. The question is could this work, not what's the best way or fastest way.
Cat 5 cable and RJ-45 jacks have eight wires.
100 Mbps Ethernet uses two pairs (four wires), one for send and one for receive.
Telephones use two wires.
Therefore, you can run both ethernet and telephone over the same wire, and still have two wires left over. It all depends on how your home was wired. The outlets may need to be reconfigured, but it's easy to test if you can find the junction box and see if you can plug in an ethernet cable from the modem. If it works, problem solved.
The caveat is that the maximum speed under ideal conditions is 100Mbps. The actual speed might be lower.
Good luck.

https://www.instructables.com/Hack-your-House-Run-both-ethernet-and-phone-over-/


Can I replace just the knob of this outside spigot to fix this leak?

If you're lucky, with a frost proof fixture like this, you may be able to slightly tighten the nut that's holding in the packing or gasket behind the handle. You'll need to have two wrenches for this, one to hold the faucet in place, and a second to tighten the nut.

If this nut doesn't want to turn (don't force it, else you may damage it and then need to replace the entire faucet), then you'll need to replace the packing or gasket around the valve stem. It's a cheap repair, but requires the water is off to the fixture and that you are gentle to avoid damaging the soft metal.

shutoff the water
open the faucet to be sure it's turned off
remove the handle (usually held in with a screw)
remove the nut with two wrenches, one holding the faucet in place and a second to turn the nut
remove the valve stem by unscrewing it and pulling it out
get a replacement packing (looks like some black string you wrap around the stem a couple times) or gasket to match what's currently there
reverse the above steps to reassemble the faucet