You should be able to turn that brass colored knob counterclockwise and remove it from the stem or have the stem turn too and remove it from the  diverter plate which should then drop out of the spout. Then examine it for any signs of corrosion or cracking. If damaged, a trip to a plumbing supply store might just do the trick for a replacement.
You have to be semi gentle in turning the knob.... you don't want to shear it off, maybe squirt some CLR or vinegar on the stem threads to dissolve any rust/corrosion.


what circuit breakers are compatible with eaton gfci , 50 amp, 2 pole breaker?

I doubt you will find one. When looking for acceptable breakers you need breakers to be NRTL (UL, ETL, CSA) recognized, meaning Listed or Classified. Listed are breakers documented in documentation with the panel, Classified are substitute breakers by other manufacturers that have been tested for use in the panels indicated in their documentation. Most manufacturers of breakers don't participate in the Classified process, the exception is Eaton. This chart of Eaton breakers https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/electrical-circuit-protection/classified-circuit-breakers.models.html doesn't show any 2-pole gfci breakers, but even if it did I would suspect there is likely little difference between the listed and classified version made by the same manufacturer.
So your only real option for a different breaker would seem to be mounting a small (spa style) disconnect as a subfeed from your main panel.
I would thoroughly check your existing wiring, receptacle, cord, and even the connection in the stove to verify no fault exists between neutral and ground before even considering a different breaker. If you find continuity anywhere between the neutral and ground wires then changing the breaker would be pointless.


Should a concrete slab slope toward my house?

The slab upon which the addition is to be built should normally be level and without a slope to it - (a garage floor may be different). In addition the final grading of any surrounding dirt coming up to the slab/foundation should be BELOW the slab level and should slope away and down as it gets farther from the edge of the new house line.

The contractor that placed the slab is probably the wrong person to be getting assurances from regarding whether the non-level slab is OK. If they messed up the slab they are probably going to try to convince you that it is OK and try to proceed to build on top of it!! Get a formal opinion from 3rd party or your building inspector.

During the construction phase a new addition slab that is built up even with an existing floor line is likely to be susceptible to rain water coming in under the existing wall base plates even when the slab would be level. A good contractor would probably make allowances to place plastic up on the existing outside walls that drapes down over the new slab and out some 6 to 10 feet to help keep rain water from collecting up near the place where the new slab joins up against the existing wall area. If your slab with it's slope toward the existing house is a legitimate design then it seems to me that such temporary measure may be even more important. However I suspect that the slope is completely improper in this case for a bedroom addition and the fact that the contractor did not take steps to keep rain water from running into your house speaks volumes about the poor quality of the workmanship being done on your project.


Garage door needs light switch on to operate

There's no problem leaving the socket empty, if it cannot be reached and there's no chance of critters getting into it. However, it would be more convenient to have light when you need it. There are motion-sensing LED lamps for less than US$5/each that screw into standard Edison-base sockets, which seem to be what your photo show. The lamps turn on when you go past, and turn off a short time after motion ceases. Look in local stores; I've purchased some for less than $US3.


Does laminate flooring need an independent vapor barrier on concrete?

Lots of slabs are covered in carpet without any problem. It depends on your specific slab. To know you need to test the slab. Take a trash bag tape it down to the floor. In 24 hours pull it up. If the floor looks damp or there is moisture on the bag a barrier will be needed if it is dry no barrier is needed. I have epoxy painted to seal damp floors made a huge difference in the humidity. Even though you have underlayment on your flooring it is segmented, moisture under there is not desirable. If dry with the bag test use the bag for trash and start your floor. If wet decide on the best path forward and use your bag for some trash (don’t waste the bag just because it has some tape on the outside. Added since some don’t understand:
Many slabs have a vapor barrier under them, so if your plastic test comes up dry no additional barrier may be needed. I mentioned carpet because it holds moisture but grows mold and mildew faster than laminate and if a slab can handle carpet it can handle laminate, the plastic test is how to know if it is wet / dry at any age.


How thick should my tile underlayment be?

When I did this in my old house I had a 3/4" subfloor and used 1/4" backer board (with 1/4" notch thinset between the subfloor and backer). I don't think that direction matters given how many fasteners you'll use on that backer board. Don't neglect to tape the joints either.

That floor never moved after adding tile on top.


Do I need a pump to move rainwater from a tank to point-of-use?

It's going to depend on how much pressure you want and how high your cistern is with respect to point of use.  Typical US residential water pressure is on the order of 40 to 80 PSI.  One foot of head (height of the water column from cistern to tap) gives you 0.433 PSI, so you would need a 92 foot head to reach 40 PSI.  This is the concept behind water towers

You may not need that much pressure - it will just take longer to fill the tub, etc.  Whether that's acceptable is a judgment call on your end.


How do you determine the date a house was built?

All of this information will be available on most county (.gov) websites through title information or deeds.  They only care about when the house was titled, which as @bib has alluded to comes after a occupancy permit and a finished inspection.

It does not matter when the house first started to get built.  The inspections will be done when it is done and will require everything to meet code when it is being inspected, not when the work was done.  So a house started in 1980 and finished in 1990 and inspected and titled in 1990 is "built" in 1990 for all intents and purposes (given that you do not own a historical home where this information might be important).


My Canister ceiling light bulbs, LED 65, BR30 burn out too quickly

Heavily insulated can lights are a Bad, Bad thing for LED bulbs - LED bulbs are already compromised in their cooling ability by being forced to fit in an envelope that is similar in shape to an incandescent bulb. Stick it in an IC can fixture with no airflow and insulation all around, and it gets hot. Heat kills LEDs and heat also kills LED power supplies (what turns 120/240 VAC into DC current and voltage proper for the LED module itself.)

Given the price of LED bulbs, you are probably not saving money .vs. using incandescent bulbs that can take the heat, or somewhat more efficient halogen bulbs that LOVE the heat if you are killing a bulb avery 3 months.

A non-bulb-shaped LED retrofit module can have somewhat better cooling designed in. One of those might last longer, though I note that ones I have specify a life of 35,000 hours in IC fixtures and 50,000 in ventilated fixtures, so even there it's definitely hurting the life.

Replacing the entire fixture with a designed-from-the-ground-up LED fixture that has effective cooling built in is the best option for long LED life. If you are not going to do that, I'd suggest looking for Halogen incandescent bulbs and not killing any more LED bulbs in these fixtures.


Refilling extra space between rail and posts for inserting screws?

The right solution is to trim the higher posts, which can be done with a simple hand saw. You could clamp some blocks on the posts below the cut to act as guides, keeping the cut square and preventing accidental damage due to slips.

The only acceptable alternative (to my mind) is a shim cut of a suitable material, such as wood with the grain oriented across the post. This is actually a more complex task. You haven't said what the dimensions of the gaps are or what finish you need to match, so I can't offer a more specific suggestion.


What is this piece, that fell out of my Kenmore Dishwasher?

Ah, never mind, I found it!  Dishwasher tub corner baffle.


Is it okay to place two battery chargers on one 30 amp circuit?

First things first: ignore the tap conductor rules in the NEC!  You can't use them for receptacles anyway: 240.21(A) refers you to 210.19, which sadly is a bit confusing-looking as it refers to receptacles in two different places, only one of which refers to a notion of 'tap conductor', which furthermore isn't in the NEC's definitions section!  But, 210.19(A)(2):

  Branch Circuits with More than One Receptacle.
  Conductors of branch circuits supplying more than one receptacle for cord-and-
  plug-connected portable loads shall have an ampacity of not less than the
  rating of the branch circuit.

states that conductors on a multiple receptacle outlet branch circuit must have the same ampacity as the rest of the branch circuit (or better, of course), and Exception 1 to 210.19(A)(4):

  Exception No.1: Tap conductors shall have an ampacity sufficient for the load
  served. In addition, they shall have an ampacity of not less than 15 for
  circuits rated less than 40 amperes and not less than 20 for circuits rated
  at 40 or 50 amperes and only where these tap conductors supply any of the
  following loads:

  (a) lndividual lamp holders or luminaires with taps extending not longer than
  450 mm (18 in.) beyond any portion of the lampholder or luminaire.

  (b) A luminaire having tap conductors as provided in 410.117.

  (c) individual outlets, other than receptacle outlets, with taps not over 450 > mm (18 in.) long.

  (d) Infrared lamp industrial heating appliances.

  (e) Nonheating leads of deicing and snow-melting cables and mats.

explicitly excludes receptacle outlets.

This leaves you with two options here:

Put a pair of 6-30 receptacles in the garage (yes, you must use 30A), and leave the circuit otherwise as-is, wiring the new receptacle(s) using 10/2.  (Using 15A receptacles on a 30A circuit violates NEC 210.21(B)(3) and the associated table.)
IF you have a 120/240VAC circuit running to the garage (2 hots, neutral, ground), you can fit a subpanel there and then use a pair of dual pole 15A breakers and 14/2 wire to run independent circuits to 6-15R outlets for each charger.  If the existing 30A circuit was run using 10/2 though, you cannot do this -- single pole breakers aren't rated for 240VAC service!


yellow zinc plated screw to subfloor and stud

The lumber on the second floor is unlikely to be treated. And holding flooring down isn’t the toughest application, so that wouldn’t be an issue. The screws you linked to would be acceptable for this application.


The cheapest (in terms of efforts) way to mount mic stand to a table with slanted edges

A piece of a board between the clamp and the tabletop should work.
If not sturdy, then drill a hole in the clamp arm and use a screw to secure the end of the board.
You could also attach the board to the underside of the table with doublesided tape.
If you cannot find wood, then get a cheap plastic cutting board meant for kitchen use.

Another possibility, but not cheapest is to drill a cable hole, and pass the clamp through the hole.


How to 'warm up' LED output color without changing the bulbs

If you look at, e.g., this Amazon page and scroll down to "similar units," you'll see a variety of similar fixtures which are color-temperature rated. (The lower the temperature, the redder the output color balance).  I rather doubt you can easily swap out the LED in the fixture you bought, and it's certainly not worth the money you (probably won't) save.


How should I repair drywall where heating registers used to be?

Personally, I would just build a rectangle out of 2x4s slightly smaller than the hole, lower it into the hole flush with the existing framing, then screw it to the existing framing.  That will give you a nice surface to attach your new drywall to.  Depending on the size of the hole, you might want a cross member in the box as well so your drywall isn't spanning too big of a hole unsupported.

As for cutting back the existing drywall - I wouldn't bother with that for a couple reasons:

First, you're likely to run into issues with the nails or screws that were used to originally attach the drywall to that framing.  If you cut around those, then the old drywall isn't going to have a very secure connection to the framing unless it was glued.  And if it was glued, then you have the problem of the glue residue getting in the way of the new piece you want to put on.

Second, the damaged areas of the drywall are well within the areas that you'll need to mud over anyways - figure on mudding out at least 6-12 inches on either side of the joint. So you're really not saving yourself any work by cleaning that up.


How to frame ceiling in unfinished basement

Furring around the beams with wood framing and then attaching Gypsum Ceiling Board or another finish material to the furring, is a common way of dealing with this sort of condition.

In other words, furr out  the sides and bottom of the beams with wood and attach the finish to the furring so that the ceiling varies in height because it is lower at the beams.

Acoustic tile runners can also be cut to form soffits around beams. And if acoustics are a priority, acoustical tile is likely to reduce comb filter effects.


Did I ruin my griddle by overheating it?

I'd say this one needs to be thrown out, or more fully disabled so someone else does not pick it out of the trash to use it and then thrown out.

The bubbly plastic bits in where the food goes are not a good thing, and there may well be some hidden damage as well.

If it was me, I would not replace it with the exact same model, either. I would expect the sides to be welded in place, or stamped into a solid sheet; not glued like that.


Low pressure in shower of tub/shower combo

Try replacing/cleaning the shower head extension (the bit between the shower arm and the head), as they sometimes have screens/restrictions that get gunked up.

You'll always have less water volume out of the shower head, than you do from the tub spout.  But if the flow out of the head has reduced over time, it's likely due to mineral deposits.


Water leak under kitchen after shutting off / turning on water

Sometimes just the pressure cycling on/off is the straw that breaks the old plastic plumbing item's back. They age and get brittle.


How do I insulate my unfinished basement with half foundation, half siding?

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the siding should be done from the outside. As in pull the siding off if necessary and replace/repair damage.
If you are concerned about waterproofing below grade this is something you should look into. It's called dimple board (forgot it's proper, name air gap something or other), but it would require you breaking concrete around the interior perimeter and installing a sump pump and weepers for it to be fully effective

https://www.citywidegroup.com/waterproofing/interior-waterproofing

Insulation

This is what I would call minimalist insulation
https://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-wall-insulation-detail/

This is similar to the method I would use
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/how-to-insulate-a-basement-wall

Your situation is a little different as you have some siding up above. I would continue a plumbline straight-up creating a large void in behind the wall where the siding is. I would then fill that cavity with insulation. I would then apply vapour barrier with acousti seal in the joist cavity's and at the bottom plate. If your plan is to finish the basement make sure to waterproof, if necessary and run all your mechanical and electrical before you insulate. If your plan is just to insulate to make the upstairs more comfortable then you can stop here.

Side Note the diagrams show a pressure treated bottom plate. We don't do that here in Toronto because it's toxic. We wrap the bottom with a water resistant plastic which is then carried up the stud wall on both sides and becomes part of the vapour barrier.


What is the pointed end of a spud or construction adjustable wrench used for?

Same thing you use a Marlin Spike for. (Tapered steel rod with a mushroom head on one end to strike with a mallet or dead blow) It's an alignment tool for drilled holes in metal building frames.

During assembly, the bolt holes don't necessarily line up, so you stick the tapered tail through the mating holes in the construction item, lever them around till the adjacent holes line up, slap a bolt through, affix a nut and washer and then use the wrench end to tighten.

Note: Landlubber term is Drift Pin or Bull Pin. Alignment Punch would be the technical name any machinist or mechanic would recognize. When an ocean going tug captain decides that it's more lucrative to run his boat up a slough, pull the engine and use it to power a sawmill operation, he's already been using a tapered steel rod to splice hawser cable. And when he needs to line up pieces of equipment on shore, he repurposes the Marlin Spike for more or less what he's been doing with it all along, using it as a multipurpose prybar, alignment tool and general persuader of anything that isn't quite in the right place. And the name he knew it as followed him into the big mill where he became head millwright.


Basement Bathroom Plumbing - Rough in Backwater Valve

While I totally agree it's the wrong place for the BWV, it's not sticking out of the floor. So, is your problem with doing a finished floor? As far as framing goes, I'd include the sump corner & make that whole end into a closet in the powder room.


How can I remove a tub spout with a stripped hex bolt/machine screw?

Assuming the inside of the hex nut is stripped so that the allen wrench turns within the nut...

Get a spare allen wrench and a replacement set screw and a small tube of epoxy glue.  Dab the glue on the end of the wrench and insert it into the nut.  Hold in place while the glue sets.  Unscrew the nut.

Discard the now fused nut/wrench combo and replace with new set screw using new allen wrench.


Does either capacity or body type contribute to a less noisy wet/dry vacuum?

Not really. In my experience, fan design and exhaust muffling are the primary factors. Since most of the noise occurs at the fan motor, the vacuum collector doesn't have much to do with noise volume.


Yes lots of folks overlay , I do in some cases not in others. You may get a construction adhesive to hold those in place. Some of the tiles have a peel and stick backing and that usually works well on vinyl but most say for dry locations, you said the wet look was built in so I might try a water resistant adhesive like liquid nails. It should not take very much you don’t want to make bulges or have it bleed up through the cracks before it drys. There are some silicone sealant / adhesives that should really stick well to the vinyl and once dry water won’t bother that type. I focus on moisture because in a bathroom that has been a majority of the issues I have found.


Cable #2 is a switch loop, so try turning that switch on
What you see here is the origination point of an old-style switch loop that controls a receptacle.  Cable #1 feeds power from the breaker onward to some other box, so we can ignore it and focus on cables 2 and 3.  From that white-wire-to-black-wire splice and the fact cable 2's black is spliced to the always-hot black, we can tell that cable 2 is an old-style switch loop, carrying always-hot to and switched-hot back from an ordinary light switch somewhere.  Cable 3, then, feeds a switched receptacle with the switched-hot from the switch loop, as its neutral connects into the main neutral bundle.
As a result, turning the switch at cable #2 on should get your receptacle to work.  While you're in here with the breaker off, there are a couple things you can do to clean this box up for the next person working in it, though.  First and foremost would be to use black tape or Sharpie to remark the white wire in cable #2 as a hot wire; that way, it's clear that it's hot, not a neutral.  Furthermore, Code says that that white wire in cable #2 should be carrying the always-hot down to the switch, with the black wire in cable #2 used to carry the switched-hot back up.  Once you have the relabeling done, swapping those two wires around should be a simple matter -- once you're done, the relabeled white wire from cable #2 will join with the black wires in the incoming feed and in cable #1, while the black wire in cable #2 connects to the black wire in cable #3.
Note also that since this switch loop controls a receptacle, it's exempt from the NEC 404.2(C) requirements for bringing neutral out to the switch location.


Why do I have two doorbell transformers?

Yes, adding a second transformer to make higher current available would be cheaper than buying a bigger transformer. But not by much, likely done because that is what someone had available.


How to Sync Booster Fan with Furnace Fan

Using a 24v/110v relay (installed in the booster fan's junction box) run 2-conductor T-stat wire back to your furnace.  hook 1 conductor to ground, and hook the other conductor to your T-stat's fan wire (usually green, but whatever wire is connected to the "G" terminal on your T-stat).  On the 110v side, break the black wire to the fan and connect leads to the relay.  That's it.  Alternatively, you can use a pressure switch, but they cost more and you'll have to run power (110v, 14/2) from the pressure switch (which should be located in the supply plenum just downstream of the cooling coils) to the booster fan.


GFCI's trip for a specific reason, that's when there is an imbalance between the current flow of the hot wire of a branch circuit and the neutral of the same circuit. So it's either the fixture itself has some sort of leakage or the switch leg leading to the fixture or the before mentioned you have the switch wired incorrectly. I would try to disconnect the fixture from the circuit and see if the GFCI trips. If it doesn't it's the fixture, replace it. If it does trip it's either the branch wiring or the switch. Be sure and wire nut off the exposed wires while testing without a fixture.

Good luck and stay safe.


How do I fix the stairs to the garage where the treads look like they are about to fall?

When you pull apart the two sides of your staircase, either side can come loose. It looks like the left side is tight against the wall, so I'd hammer the right side back in (use a piece of scrap wood so you don't leave a bunch of hammer marks).

I'd then find a way to secure the bottom tread with screws into both sides or secure the right side to the floor by running a tapcon screw through it and into the concrete.


Bedroom Install of a Takagi T-H3-DV-P - 199,000 BTU Propane Indoor Condensing Ultra-Low NOx

You'll want more than your average CO alarm for this

While everyone should have a UL-listed CO detector to sound the alarm if "imminent hazard" CO concentrations are present, your situation (a combustion appliance mounted in close proximity to inhabited space) merits extra precautions.  First, I would get a low level CO monitor in addition to your normal CO alarm if I were in your shoes.  This extra unit will tell you if there are issues with your appliance emitting CO before it reaches the imminent hazard point, which is important because chronic low level CO exposure can be a significant threat to vulnerable populations, or simply make you miserable all the time with no idea what's going on.

ABS does not a gas vent make

Furthermore, using DWV materials such as PVC or ABS for venting is wrong, and potentially fatally so.  The issue is that while the manufacturers can provide an appliance that keeps flue gas temperatures low enough to avoid deterioration of the flue when it is in new condition, scaling and other efficiency-hampering factors cause the flue gas temperature to rise over the appliance's lifetime, leading to plastic flues deterioriating from overtemperature and eventually failing outright.

Avoiding this is simple, though.  All one needs to do is follow the Codes and use a UL 1738 listed Type IV special gas vent system; uniformly, these systems are made of stainless steel instead of plastic, allowing them to withstand the exhaust temperatures of just about any gas appliance made without taking any damage whatsoever.  Furthermore, the use of highly corrosion-resistant stainless steel alloys such as AL29-4C allows a properly installed stainless steel vent system to last a long time (lifetime warranties are common), no matter how nasty the condensate gets.


Check to see what is in the ceiling fan box. Sounds like when the ceiling fan got ripped out, it ripped out the wire nuts that connected it.

If this was the first light on the circuit, then there were probably 3 wires in each wire nut -- source, lamp, and next light on circuit.  If you disconnected the source->next wires, it would explain your problem.


On a receptacle branch circuit wired with 14 AWG wire, nobody cares if you use a GFCI+receptacle combo device that is rated 15A or 20A.  15A devices are thru-rated for 20A.

However, they care very much if you use a 20A breaker.  That is illegal and unsafe, and you must promptly change it to 15A.  I don't know what you were thinking. All breaker sizes cost the same, so the original installer already used the largest breaker that is safe.  You must never "just upgrade a breaker".

However, you are not allowed to have a 20A socket (NEMA 5-20) which has the T-shaped neutral, on a 15A circuit.  If that is what your new GFCI is, it has to go.

As for running a refrigerator and freezer in a GFCI-protected zone, it's legal, but stupid. These aren't the appliances GFCIs are intended for.  You're not likely to drop one in a sink, nor are you likely to touch the hot parts no matter how much the unit fails. Grounding is more than adequate to protect humans.  In fact NEC makes specific exceptions for refrigerators and freezers in areas that normally require GFCI protection**.

After all, this is a conflict between two safety systems.  The refrigerator's job is to protect food, but it stands in conflict with GFCI's job to protect humans from shocks.

So your best path here is to remove the refrigerator and freezer from GFCI protection, by assigning them dedicated sockets and labeling those sockets "Refrigerator/freezer only".  There are several ways to do that.

A home-run from either a) the panel or b) the LINE side of the GFCI, that runs only to the two dedicated fridge/freezer sockets.
Fitting a GFCI receptacle at each non-fridge/freezer outlet before the fridge/freezer, and using only their LINE terminals.  Thus the onward cable will not be GFCI protected, and can deliver non-protected power to the fridge and freezer.  However it is not an efficient use of GFCI devices.

Regardless, the socket must be dedicated. Normally, you must use a single receptacle.  Like this.

This also looks good to the inspector.

Since you have both fridge and freezer, you need 2 sockets obviously.  If they are right next to each other, you can use a common "duplex" receptacle, but it will be all the more important that you mark it as dedicated.


What is the proper way to install windows on the house that is not level

Installing opening windows out of plumb (out of level), will make them hard to open and close, and may affect their ability to seal well. If the windows are fixed, this is less of a problem.

If you install them level, the most noticeable issue will be the top and bottom, probably not the sides. You can address this by being creative with casings, the molding around the windows. If you put a shallow triangular pediment across the top, it will mask the angle difference between the window and siding.

An alternative is a curved facia board at the top, or any other combination that breaks up the horizontal line.

The bottom could be handled similarly, but there is less tradition of decorative moldings or pediments at the bottom of things. A straight, stepped molding might also break it up.

SUPPLEMENT: Based on the additional information, 1/8" in one foot is not a lot of lean. I would still hang them plumb and mask it with the moldings. You could rip cut the molding on a slight angle to split the difference. Also, having the moldings NOT end at the edge of a siding board makes variances harder to notice.


I have to ask, who gave you permission to drill into the wall?  If you say your spouse, then maybe you need to take some home improvement classes at the adult education night school at your local high school!   Just joking.....

But seriously, if you have run into the concrete blocks, you need to use masonry bits with a hammer drill to bore the holes, and than use masonry anchors or specialty concrete screws (tapcons) to secure the brackets to the block. The masonry screws are easiest and the package will tell you what size masonry bit to use. You can use a regular drill, but it will require a lot of pressure and letting off every 15 seconds or so to clear the dust from the hole. Don't be surprised if the screw strips on the way in, very common, it may take a couple of trys. Be sure to drill the hole deep enough. you will get the feel of it. It is not at all like drilling into wood.

I have to mention, if you have drywall over block, then there is strapping somewhere ramsetted into the block. If you can find the strapping, you can use the standard wood techniques. Look for dimples or evidence of drywall screws, that will give you a hint where to find wood.   Good luck.


What to use to lower the computer noise in a wooden cabinet?

If most of the noise is coming from the hard drives, rather than the fans, then you need to dampen the vibrations from transferring from the hard drive enclosure to the furniture.

The vibrations could be made even louder by the fact that it's on a shelf supported on its ends only - this could cause the sound to be even louder if the hard drives vibrate at a frequency that lines up with the normal mode of the shelf.

I would recommend the following:

See if the noise gets better by adding a support to the shelf that isn't just the ends. Try holding it with your hand, or propping it up with a board to see if that helps reduce the sound. If it does, look at adding support to the shelf.
Add some velcro to each of the hard drive sleds
Use rubber padded screws to attach the hard drive to the sled
Put a rubber pad underneath the hard drive enclosure.

It may take some trial and error to figure out what helps and what doesn't, but the basic idea is to attenuate the transfer of the vibrations.

Or, you could just switch the drives to SSDs, or select drives that include built-in noise attenuation.


If you're measuring voltage by touching your probes to the terminals on a single 3-way switch, you're not accomplishing much.  Your readings will come out as follows.

From common to the closed traveler terminal, you'll read 0 volts. This is because common is electrically connected to this terminal, so they're at the same voltage potential.

From common to the open traveler, you'll get some arbitrary value between 0 and line voltage. This is because one of the travelers is floating, and has no reference to ground or the line.

Between the travelers, you'll again get an arbitrary value.

From common (or the closed traveler) to the open traveler, will yield a line voltage reading, if the other switch is in the opposite position. This is because the other traveler now has a reference to ground, through the load.


Should I favor a tighter joist interval or more blocking between joists in order to get the most firmness in the deck?

Give a short and simple answer because you have a relatively common deck size.   16" OC is fine.   Put two rows of blocking with the same materials as the joist.   The blocking should split your deck in thirds.   If done well the blocking will appear to be some sort of magic beam that goes through your joists.
I mention that because I always add at least one row of blocking to all decks.   You do not want your joists turning on you due to moisture/humidity issues.   The best way to combat this is blocking.   Therefore you need to do it anyway and with 16" OC you should have little to no deflection give you are using at least 2x8 on top.
Note:  I want to add that your piers probably play a bigger part in the apparent "stiffness" of a deck.   Any kind of sway in them and your deck will have a bouncy or flimsy feeling.   This may mean that you want to sink your piers a little lower, get bigger piers/lumber and ensure that they are set correctly.   If these things have any given your deck will always have give.


There should be no ground currents unless there is a fault condition.  If ground and neutral are bonded at both ends then the main current will flow in all three conductors, if the neutral current is compared to the live wire current it will no longer be in balance and trip the protection.

You have an unenviable situation where you have two (perhaps 3 if you get grid connected) power utilities on site with the generator and the battery powered inverter.  The responsibility of providing the neutral conductor at (close as possible to) ground potential rests with the supply utility (which is easy when there is only one).

You mention the 230V input on the inverter unit.  Twice in relation to battery charging and one in relation to synchronising.  These two do not work together often.  If you have a battery charger input on the inverter unit then it does not need synchronising.  If the 230V input is for hot switching between the inverter and the generator (or utility grid) it is not just for battery charging and is the sign of a complex or sophisticated controller.

There are likely standard connection guidelines for this controller that you should investigate, if you can locate an on-line installation manual this would help with getting answers.

Also as mentioned you should try and maintain a single ground point at your main distribution panel (unless you have a very large installation with possible isolation transformers where you have to re-establish the neutral ground reference after the isolation transformer).

The inverters 230V input neutral connection should NOT be tied directly to ground as it is not a supply neutral but it is possible that it is connected to the output neutral if it is intended for hot switching and not just battery charging.  If this is the case you may be able to float the generator output (unlink the ground from neutral).   You may have to remove the RCD on the generator if no other solution is found. I found an interesting document that discusses the safety of these options though based in Australia.  There is also an Australian forum thread that covers and solves what is possibly exactly your problem.

Basically if your generator is only supplying your inverter/charger/controller it does not need the RCD which is used for protecting humans from earth faults.  The RCD on the inverters output will provide this protection.

EDIT:
The on-line installation manual has a lot of meat in it.  As predicted the unit is sophisticated and does support battery charging and hot switching. Specifically the main guide describes the functional parts of the wiring diagrams in section 17 Figure Elements AC Part and the appendix shows the wiring options.  All of the wiring options (except the transformer isolated (label Y) one where it is required to re-establish the neutral reference) do not want the neutral connected to ground (label C) at the inverter/controller.   The neutral line is illustrated as linked through (which is acceptable as it is also able to switch to operate in bypass mode) this means any neutral to earth (label C) link will be seen by the output of the generating set.

What is even more interesting is that the neutral can be programmatically connected to ground inside the inverter (label V or relay K4) but only with expert level parameter settings according to local codes and specific needs that would be rare.

It also mentions the key point "The neutral is earthed at a single point of the installation, downstream of the source and upstream of the protection device(s)" (with some extra details about multiple sources again) but it boils down to the fact that you cannot connect the neutral to earth AFTER (they say downstream) the RCD.  The only time you would use the link at the inverter (label C) or the internal expert level relay (label V) would be if the inverter is the only source of supply and has to take charge of the neutral reference.  The reason to link at the inverter programmatically would be if the neutral reference is supplied by a plug in generator or shore power and this reference is lost when unplugged.

Conclusion
Your generator RCD trips when the inverter has synchronised and connects the load to the generator, at this point the current shared by the neutral and ground is no longer zero and the unbalance occurs.

You can leave the generator RCD (label D) in place and the generator neutral to ground link (label E) but will need to make sure there are no other neutral to ground links in your system (label C and V).  For peace of mind also document this so if the generator is disconnected (label K) a neutral to ground link must then be established at the inverter (label C).

As some highlander is rumoured to have said; "There can be only one"


BX cable connection to vapor tight luminaire

The normal thing is to either add a plug to that cord or tie it in at a junction box. MFG instructions override code in this case. Current code in a garage if an receptacle it must have GFCI protection no exceptions.


air conditioner venting pipe functionality

No, it is not better to pump the hot air into your house. The vent is outside for a reason and by-code because it will also expel condensate (ie water vapor condenses out of the air when the pump compresses air.)

If you are worried at all about 'energy leaks' then ensure the drain pipe has an escutcheon and it seals tightly to the exterior wall so that drafts/cooling loss don't run up your power bill.  You can use a paintable, water-tight, exterior caulk to seal the escutcheon to the wall, if necessary.


How can I connect two indoor ductless A/C's to one compressor?

If his house is relatively new and well insulated and not too enormous (1500 SF or less) and not in a very hot area, two tons is probably enough for the whole house most of the time. I've got 2.25 tons downstairs and 2.5 tons upstairs in a 3200 SF house and it's always been more than enough so 2 tons for 1500 SF or less is probably fine even if you run both evaporators at once.

However, I would want to be sure that you could switch off one of the two evaporators because that seems essential to his planned usage. It could be for energy savings or just because he already knows 2 tons isn't enough for the entire house, he doesn't say.

The actual question of connecting two evaporators to one condensor is quite easy, you just need to add a T to the freon supply and a T to the freon return. But how will the compressor be told to turn on? You don't want the room with the evaporator you are not using to run the compressor.

And how do you stop freon from going to the evaporator you are not using?


I'm not familiar with your orbital transmission. But, what brief research I did implies the transmission is a common replacement on these, at almost $300. So, get a new washer.

A simple test on yours was to see if you could spin the big pulley by hand. It would turn only if still "good". The motor is trying to spin the transmission but it's completely locked up. But, if you can wiggle it, beat it with a sledge hammer or ask it nicely to move then move it & try an agitation run to see if it engages. If so, then still get a new washer.


It sounds like your 1" pads may be non-shrink grout. If it is different in texture and color, it should pop off the concrete, and yes grind off the metal bar with a thin cutting wheel on a small right angle grinder. If the surface is to be part of the finished job, I would consider chiseling down around the pin with a neat hole or use a core drill, to cut it off below the surface. Then you can fill the hole with an expansion concrete mixed with sand and pea gravel to mimic the surrounding finish as best as possible. You could wipe it off a little with a damp sponge to expose the aggregate a little after it has initially set to mimic ageing a bit. Be careful with this step though.


Electrical: Can a neutral wire just be capped?

Yes. If you're getting rid of the receptacle, you should cap off the grounded (neutral) conductor in the switch box.

Just make sure there's no exposed wire sticking out of the connector, and you use a twist-on wire connector rated for a single wire.


If popcorn ceiling contains asbestos, then does it mean it's made out of vermiculite?

Vermiculite itself has not been shown to be a health problem or contain asbestos. However, some vermiculite insulation contained asbestos fibers due to it being extracted from a mine in Montana that had a natural deposit of asbestos which contaminated the Vermiculite. If used for popcorn ceiling, the asbestos wasn't purposely added but could have been left over from the Vermiculite mined in Montana.


It doesn't appear that they used a junction box.  It seems the romex is entering this fixture through that clamp on the right of that lamp socket.  If you remove the several screws holding this plate to the wall, there is probably a hole in the drywall where the cable is.   If there was a j-box it should have been behind those cutouts in the center.

So, if that's the case, you can buy an old work j-box, and cut and fit it yourself.  Then mount your new fixture to that.

An old work j-box looks like this and mounts to the drywall.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-14-cu-in-Old-Work-PVC-Electrical-Outlet-Box-B114RB/1004040271

How to install


Refurbishing badly painted, rusty radiator

I have used a wire-wheel on an electric drill to remove loose paint and rust from a radiator. It can be hard work but you can get down to bright clean steel using those tools. Your case looks extreme but I would try that to judge the effectiveness.

I would aim to remove all traces of rust. If there is too much rust for this to be practical, that might be a sign that it would be better to replace the radiator.

I note that many "Hammerite" products are designed to be painted onto rusty surfaces - I'd check the information on the tin.

I used aerosol cans of radiator primer and top-coat.


How do I remove this bolt from my bedframe?

Looks like an IKEA bed to me - something like the MALM or the HEREFOSS.

You first remove the metal rail, then undo the nut. The manual depicts a wrench (ikea part 113453) but a regular metric 13mm wrench reportedly works fine. From the assembly instructions:


Are T-8 lights and T-12 lights safely interchangeable?

You are meant to replace the ballast on old T12s, reusing the old G13 base and enclosure.  There are numerous retrofit and upgrade kits available.

The official word for the USA is:

  Based on [Department of Energy] analysis... most T12 lamps are too inefficient to meet the
  [current] standards and can no longer be manufactured for distribution
  in commerce after July 14, 2012. In addition, if a consumer replaces
  an existing T12 system with a more-efficient T8 or T5 diameter system,
  he or she may need to purchase a new ballast or fixture. Even with
  this additional cost, however, DOE has determined that increasing the
  energy conservation standards will save consumers money overall.
  http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/appliance_standards/residential/pdfs/general_service_fluorescent_factsheet.pdf

Mixing the two bulbs types is chancy: it might work out great for you, but probably not.  Many of the old ballasts are pretty bad anyway: the new ones in this case really are better.  Old ballasts are likely magnetic and might hum.  They may have PCB chemicals, and they have a reputation for getting hot and even igniting.

Note: retrofit kits make sense in commercial applications.  For your one fixture, it may be cheaper to buy an entirely new one.

2017 Update: The cool kids are all using LED instead.  As before the hookup options are still bewildering (single ended, far side terminated, ballast bypass, ballast compatible).  As before, the same G13 base and fixture can be preserved.


Cracked bathroom tile - runs almost entire length of the wall

I had a similar problem in my house, and after considerable whining from my SO, I started digging out and replacing the cracked tiles.  That turned out to be rather tedious, as the tiles were well attached to the wall and there was much collateral damage.
Ultimately my diagnosis was as Aloysius Defenestrate hints at in the comments.  The cracks were along a seam between two backer boards.  In my case concrete board below, green board above.  The boards where not obviously taped at the seams or supported by any horizontal lath boards between the studs.  Either one might have mitigated the problem.  Inevitably I ruined the underlying backerboard removing the cracked tiles, but I could see the underlying structure.
My repairs involved pre-drilling and toe-screwing some lath boards as support. and layering up new backer, thinset and tiles.


If you wish to actually de-rust the tub, you have a few options, most of which are slightly destructive, to remove the rust.

Wire wheels or other powered grinding/sanding devices will be quickest, but remove the most material.
Hand sanding/abrading will remove less material and may allow you to shape your result more easily.
Using an abrasive cleaning product will remove the least material of these manual processes, but may take considerable effort.
Electrolysis would remove only the rust, but likely involve some serious disassembly, not to mention voltages high enough to minimally cause pain (or worse).

I recommend Bar Keepers Friend. Not affiliated in any way, we found it recently when trying to do some deep cleaning on a steel kitchen skillet, and have since tried it on more things than I care to remember. The latest is an electrical stove with three years of hard use and no interim cleanings. Within 5 minutes everything was off that should have been and the finish was unharmed.

If you were doing a more involved and personal restoration, I'd suggest electrolysis, but not for a rental unit.

Lastly, you may want to consider requesting a fix from the landlord, as the problem may manifest again, given the installation of that recessed drain.


When switch furnace on, ventilation fan turns off

Many thanks to all who have attempted to help. I am afraid the question was based on my mis-interpretation of the symptoms.  In fact the furnace was attempting to light, but failing due to an exhaust problem (now fixed) -sorry!
Martin


Would upgrading my basement with sandstone blocks be worthwhile?

You have a couple things going on here:
1) The posts.   an engineer would have to evaluate to be sure, but it's most likely that you will not be able to remove the posts without providing beams of some sort to span the space between the walls.     Their irregular arrangement probably lines up with walls that they are supporting in the first story, which in turn are supporting the floor of the second story.
2) Clearance.   Digging deeper to get additional clearance will be challenging, because you will have to leave the footers under the existing foundation in place, and not undermine them.   This means you will likely end up with a floor that is a fair amount smaller than the existing space.    Also, you will have to support the part of the house that are held up by the posts while they are being relocated/lengthened.

In either case, you will need advice from someone knowledgeable in building structure and foundations.

Overall, it may be easier/cheaper to raise the level of the house and add additional height to the existing foundation (if it is in good enough shape to take the additional load) than to dig deeper.   A contractor that is experienced in this will know how to support the house while it is being raised, and you may be able to include new support beams to eliminate some or all of the posts at the same time.


Use a prybar to lever up the treads about 1/8" and then use a Sawzall type reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut the shank between the tread and the riser. Check to see if you can rent the reciprocting saw at a tool rental. The blades are readily available at any Hardware and Tool supply.

You won't be wanting to drive back into the same hole as the new spikes will have less grab in the wood anyway. Be sure to check the risers for rot.

Personally, I don't do spikes anymore, there are structural wood screws available that are a bit easier to install, can be removed and have better bite in the wood. Since you already have the spikes, Eastwing makes a nice 3-lb mason's hammer that would probably be better than trying to drive them with a 16oz framing hammer.

Structural Wood Screws will be installable by drill motor, though you might want a 1/2" corded drill with a little torque behind it. Consult the manufacturer as most are self-drilling, needing no pilot hole.

They will be either Hex drive or Torx and the manufacturer usually provides the bits for quality control so the heads don't get bunged up during installation. The items and manufacturers below are chosen because they are recommended for timber framing and available in 10" lengths:

FastenMaster TimberLok (top) and HeadLok (bottom):

GRK Fasteners RSS (top) and RSS LTF (bottom)

Simpson Strong-Tie SDWS (top) and SDWH (bottom)

All these manufacturers will provide installation information, strength tables and recommendations on use. Lots of Acrobat files to read if you're so inclined.


Typical 5050 LEDs are rated at 0.24 Watts per LED.

At 60 LEDs per metre, your 5 metre strip has 300 LEDs requiring at least 300 x 0.24 = 72 Watts.

At 12 Volts, a 72 Watt load draws 72 / 12 = 6 Amps.

I would obtain a 12 Volt power supply that is rated for at least 100 Watts (8 or 9 amps).


Use C-clamps in place of mounting clamps for truck cap/topper?

A large C-clamp is probably strong enough, but it is more likely to slip off. I would not use this method. You don't want to have to explain to an insurance company why your method failed and severely damaged several cars, or worse. Use the topper manufactures recommended method (probably bolts and some type of locking nut, not a wingnut).


How to make an underground connection to 4 inch clay drain pipe

Generally you use something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-PVC-DWV-Mechanical-Flexible-Coupling-P1056-44/100372298

The worm drive and rubber make a good bond.  This is used in vertical and horizontal sewage applications both residentally and commercially so I wouldn't bother with landscape fabric and zip ties.  Chances are if you are joining to tile the tile will be replaced at some later stage down the road.


How do I remove these bathroom faucet handles?

I had similar fixture and found the part attached to the top of the sink unscrewed when turned counterclockwise. You might need to apply a bit of pressure to turn it if it has never been removed before.   Try a vise grip pliers with several layers of folded leather to protect the chrome finish.


The way to find a C wire is to look for the transformer, and then find the secondary (low voltage) wire that is not the R wire.

In your case, this is the wire in the diagram going to the right of the part labeled "24 VAC", which is the transformer.


Power off obviously. You can just patiently twist and tug the wire out of the backstab, and then put a wire-nut over it, and tape the wire nut so it stays. (Wire nuts are supposed to stay on splices without help, and shouldn't be taped then; however when capping a single wire they don't work properly and need help.)

Pulling a wire out of a backstab destroys its spring strength;  (even when using the release tab). The backstab cannot be reused.  Throw the switch in the trash.  Unless (like most of us) you are a member of the "never use backstabs, ever" club, in which case the switch is fine; put it back in stock. (backstabs are unreliable and create maintenance headaches later, which is why we shun them).

They make blanking plates that bolt to the same yoke screws as the switch did, and neatly fill that hole in the switch plate cover.  They also make switch-switch-blank switch plate covers, though they are rare, which is why I mentioned the first thing.


Concrete patio slopes toward garage causing water seepage

One possible solution is to cut the concrete and dig a trench for a drain between the patio and the door.  As long as the water isn't too much to overflow that drain, it will work.
But if your water problem is too much for such a drain, and I suspect it may be, the real solution is to remove the slab, grade the ground away from the garage, and then re-pour the slab.
Yes, that's a lot of work but it's the only one that is a sure-fire solution to the problem.  Having water run back toward your home is a recipe for long-term damage.  So you'll be better off all around fixing it right and not having to worry about it again.


IC housing and non-IC trim compatibility

Because IC housing are designed to be in direct contact with insulation they run hotter because the heat from the bulb cannot dissipate as quickly as a non-IC housing which will dissipate heat into the space above the fixture. Installing are vapor proof trim not approved for an IC housing, in an IC housing normally results in the plastic around the glass melting and dripping down.

With newer, cooler LED's and compact fluorescent bulbs this isn't a problem that much anymore but its still always better to match housing and trims per the manufacturer.


How can I brace a bathtub faucet without tearing out the tile wall?

1) Use a plastic ziptie (or a short length of insulated 14 gauge electrical wire):

a) Drive one screw (or a nail) part way into the top of the 2x4 blocking somewhere near the pipe.  EDIT: I see in the photo that there is already at least one nail in place near the pipe ... just ziptie to that.

b) Then ziptie the pipe to the screw. Zipties are also called cable ties, or tie wraps.

... or ...

2) Use a short length of perforated plumber's tape:

a) Cut a 5"-7" length of plumber's tape. Needs to be the metal variety; thin gauge ok and preferred.

b) Then wrap it around the the pipe

c) Then twist the ends 90 degrees such that they are horizontal and such that they overlap and such that a pair of the large holes align.

d) Then drive a screw or a nail through the aligned holes and into the 2x4 blocking

... or ...

3) What you really want is for the plumbing to be secured at or near the faucet body.  To do this, install new '2x4' blocking made out of several pieces of 1x4:

a) Cut two 6" and one 12" lengths of 1x4 (or similar)

b) On one end of each 6" piece, hammer in three 6d finish nails until there is about 1/2" still sticking out.  Then use a pair of side-cutters to cut off the six nail heads, leaving 1/8" to 1/4" of the nail still protruding out (the side-cutters will leave sharp ends on the nails).

c) Next, maneuver one of the 6" pieces through the hole then behind the plumbing, into a horizontal position such that the end with the nails is pressed against one of the wall studs and such that the 1x4 is flat against the back drywall.

d) Next drive the cut nails into the stud as best you can by tapping on the clean end with a tool.  Do the same with the other 6" piece of 1x4 and the opposite wall stud.  You may want to secure them in place by lightly duct-taping them to the back dry wall.

e) Next, maneuver the 12" piece of 1x4 into the hole, then behind the plumbing, into a horizontal position such that it is flat against the two 6" pieces and spanning across them.

f) Next, screw the three pieces together with a half dozen 1-1/4" drywall screws.

g) At this point, it should 'look like' the original 2x4 blocking, but up at the level of the faucet body and with excellent access to secure the plumbing with conventional pipe straps.

h) This method comes with no shortage if 'ifs, ands, and buts'. You'll certainly need to take the basic idea that I've laid out and adjust it to your specifics.

... or ...

4) As an alternative to the 2x4 blocking above:

a) Purchase a largish turnbuckle and a length of threaded rod with matching diameters and thread pitch. The turnbuckle will have two screw-hooks.  One will have left-hand threads, the other will have right-hand threads.

b) Remove the right-hand-threaded screw hook from the turnbuckle and discard it

d) Cut the hook/eye off the end of the left-hand-treaded screw hook, then grind a chisel like taper on the cut end.

e) Cut a 7"-10" length of threaded rod, then grind a chisel like taper on the cut end.

f) Screw the square end of the threaded rod into the turn buckle

g) Maneuver the the turnbuckle into the hole, then behind the plumbing the horizontal

h) Back-off the turnbuckle such that the two end pieces extend and dig into the wall studs.  Continue backing off on the turnbuckle using open end wrench (or similar) such that the chisel ends dig securely into the wall studs

i) Ziptie the plumbing to the the turn buckle

... or ...

5) Approach numbers 3 and 4 may work if you install the doubled-up 1x4 blocking or the turnbuckle on the front side of the plumbing.


Does my house need structural enhancement?

I see this question was asked 4 months ago (oh, and a comment added 1 month ago) so this may not matter, but the topic intrigues me. So...

Yes, there is a way to determine exactly what to do and how to determine if it will crack again. There are geotechnical engineers out there that analyze soil and sub-soil conditions. They can tell you exactly what "your" soil bearing value is and what "kind" of footing to install, (I.e.: standard spread footing, piling, etc.).  However, they can't tell you how big the footings need to be...that is done by an architect or structural engineer.

They will add up all the loads in your house and decide where the loads come down on your footings and then decide if the existing footings are big enough based on the "soil conditions " provided by the Geotech Report. If they are not the right size, they can provide a design on how to fix it.

As you can imagine, this is quite expensive. An alternative to all that is to work with a REPUTABLE builder in the area and repair your walls, "fix" your footings and see how it goes. This trial and error method seems silly to me, but it probably depends on how long you're going to stay in the home.

Also, you could ask your neighbors if this occurs every year, or just once in awhile. Maybe you just repair the cracks and paint ever couple of years.

By the way, if you get the geotechnical report done, but don't follow through with the repairs, then where I live you need to disclose that when you go to sell your house. Attorneys love it when the seller does not disclose EVERYTHING.


Where could the water leaching from the base of the drywall be coming from?

To a certain extent, moisture is unavoidable during construction. However, this is why you don't build in winter, especially in your climate, because the surface temperatures of many smooth materials (your windows, tile, plaster) are going to fall below the dew point, especially if the heating system hasn't been installed yet. When that happens, any moist air nearby is going to condense on them and turn into liquid water.

Since you can't change the season, and you can't remove the surfaces that are receiving condensation, if you want to cut your losses, hurry up and install the heating system right now, or else insist that construction take place only in the presence of construction-grade space heaters and dehumidifiers to keep moisture down and the interior heated to above the dew point.

Finally, I hope you don't have poly sheeting under the drywall. If you do, it would be worth it to eat the cost of removing the drywall and the poly sheeting. This stuff is incorrect to install, as it is a smooth vertical surface that will receive a lot of condensation when it falls below the dew point temperature. A lot of moisture is present in adjacent materials during construction, and if it's cold out... do the math. Your walls are going to weep like crazy and present an ongoing problem.

More worryingly, it sounds like your general contractor doesn't really know what he's doing. You should not be building a house during a cold upstate New York winter, and your drywall should not weep during construction due to un-dealt-with moisture loads. Additionally, 1" of foam outside the sheathing is far too little for your climate, and kraft-faced fiberglass batts are the worst, lowest-grade insulation out there; they perform very poorly.


You should be able to partition off a portion, either with permanent walls or even with furniture and hanging drapes. I closed off the "bedroom" area of a studio I lived in years ago, using the bed headboard, the dresser, and rock & roll banners hung from the ceiling.


Smart switch - Confused about current wiring

Yes, this can be installed here

It appears that your installer was smart and not only provided neutral at the switchbox, but provided you with a nicely color-coded set of wires to work with, too.  You'll just need a length of black #12 stranded THHN to pigtail the always-hots with, after trimming back and removing the length of always-hot black wire that goes past the screw.  Attach the black stranded THHN to the black screw on the switch, then nut it in with the remaining black wires.  The red wire then lands on the red screw on the smart-switch, and the existing white pigtail from the smart-switch goes to to the bundle of white wires.  Last but not least, a grounding pigtail and screw need to be added to the back of this box, and the existing ground wires removed from the existing (mounting?) screw and nutted to the green grounding pigtails present.  Once all that's done, button the box back up, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy your new smart dimmer!


Protecting CSST Through Studs - Are there no off-the-shelf solutions?

The manufacturer's installation manual describes the plate that can be used, and even includes the part number.

Which is available at Home Depot, and Amazon.

It also says in the Protection section of the document "For tubing routed horizontally between studs, striker plates should be installed at each stud, and Flexible Protective Conduit, or other approved conduit, should be installed across the entire length of the run." (see point 4 below), and "schedule 40 steel pipe has been found acceptable by CSA International for puncture protection.". So you could always use schedule 40 steel pipe to protect the pipe. Just cut the pipe in 12" sections, and install the tubing in the pipe where it passes through studs.


There will be more problems than a nitrogen tank. You also need a vacuum pump to pump the line set down once everything is assembled and a vacuum gauge,  if the system pulls down and holds nitrogen is not needed but the non compressibles Need to be removed from the system. also depending on the length of the line set you will need additional r410 , I don't know any certified tech that would loan this equipment. Do you know there are HUGE fines for opening hvac/r equipment without a license, it has been many years but $20k rings a bell.  You would not have any warranty, better to find a tech that will do it on the side for cash if you do have it set up correctly. Also depending on your local electrical code , permits for the branch circuit. The hvac license is not a state thing it is governed by the EPA you can get the equipment on line but need a license to buy Freon.  For this reason I do not consider this a DIY job.


Should I install my own electrical service panel or hire an electrician?

Jay, your power utility probably has an instruction sheet with specifications for the post, wire sizes, and temp meter enclosure.  In some states you (the home owner) can preassemble the temp service.

Since the temp box only supports plug-ins (extension cords, etc) there aren't any load conductors to inspect.  The power utility has to make the connections after they inspect the service. If you don't use a meter/breaker/recpt preassembled box, you have to make it from components.

The connection from the load side of the meter to the line lugs or the disconnect panel my have to be signed off by a Master Electrician. Check your local codes on that part.

Be sure all the parts are the proper NEMA type per specs, and don't bury any cables or conduit (but you can lay them in the trench) until utility or building inspector gives you the OK.

I almost forgot to mention, some electricians have temp services all made up that you can rent. Not a bad idea if it is going to be only short term use. You still have to run your service entry cable however.


What could I use to detect a leaking riser pipe in my apartment?

This is almost a shopping question.
 Molecular sieve desiccant, the indicating type would be a non electronic method. This material you could put down kinda like round BB’s or small cylinder shapes . when it turns color Usually from white to blue it’s damp, over time the desiccant will turn colors and it can be put in the oven and bake the moisture out. Many years ago I saw a metal gauge with a disk of desiccant for this exact purpose but did not see one of those with a quick internet search. The  Molecular sieve desiccant can be dried many times. Other than that electronic moisture detecting pads would be the only way I would know how to know at a glance.


I would simply cut back a bit further than you have marked, then extend with couplers to the original pipe lengths and add your elbows and trap components. This will leave you with exactly the same configuration, which was fine, but with the two additional couplers.

Obviously we like to reduce the number of connections in a system, but modern plastic piping is hard to screw up if you're careful to coat things well with cement.


What size wire to run from a main panel to workshop panel

First, forget copper wire at this distance and size, unless you own a copper mine.  Aluminum is a better conductor (by weight and cost), and is a better match to the zinc plated aluminum lugs you'll be attaching to.  Use the dielectric paste.  Yes, there was an issue with aluminum in small branch circuits (1350 alloy on receptacles and switches rated for copper only), but this is feeder. The power company still uses 1350 alloy on service laterals, and if you let them install this feeder they will use it.  But you're supposed to use AA-8000 alloy.

Of course you know to use individual THWN-2 or XHHW wires instead of a balky cable.

Putting in 3" conduit is brilliant and will increase your ease of DIY.  Just keep in mind you won't be able to put data cables in there.  Only certain (non-conductive) fiber optic cables are allowed.   You can put other power wires in there, say for a switched load like a light or well pump, but if you do, you'll need to derate all the conductors including the big set.  Keep that in mind, this whole conversation is about derating.

Your minimum conductor size will be #1Al.  If you install that, you are legal because any segment of wire won't get hotter than is safe.  However you have many segments, and may have some voltage drop. You may want to upsize wire for the convenience of less voltage drop.

The first question about voltage drop is "do we care?" (Or to be more precise, how much do we care). People "chicken little" over a 3% number, but we just had a lost-neutral in our apartment complex where the balance tipped 20 volts (so 100/140V), and nobody noticed for days. The stock rule of 3% is concerned with this segment, with other unknown segments adding other unknown 3%'s cumulating... but in this case, this is the big segment - there isn't anywhere on either end to lose much more.  So the 3% rule aims for no more than a 6-8% drop globally, and that's a fair target, given that the in-main and in-barn wiring won't add up to more than a 1% drop.  Keep drop under 7%.

Lastly we must avoid the great bungle of most people doing voltage drop calcs.  Do the calc on your actual amp load, not the number on the breaker. The breaker is there to protect the wire.  If you voltage-drop-calc derate to 150A wire, you'd be perfectly allowed to up-breaker to 150A.  It won't change your actual load one bit.  Think it through.

Speaking of that, do not fit a 100A panel.  The main breaker in the barn panel is redundant, it's just there to be a shutoff switch.  A 200A breaker will work just as well as a shutoff switch, and give you a lot more breaker spaces too.  Around here, we are fanatics at recommending lots of spaces, so you never, ever come back asking how to squeeze more circuits into a full panel!  Spaces are cheap, regrets are expensive.


Plumber asking for a lot more money, after starting work

Most of the time the Gas company will provide a larger meter in my area. He quoted the install and missed this. I would verify his license and bonding sounds like ?. Since you won't be running everything at the same time you may not need that big of meter. Call the gas company and ask them for the size required and the cost of an upgraded meter. Then check with the better business bureau and file a complaint if the larger is not needed and the work quoted is not done at the contract price.

Below is part of an Oregon CCB bonding statement -

  The surety bond guarantees that contractors comply with the Oregon Revised Statutes. In the event that the contractor’s non-compliance results in third party damages, a claim may be filed against the bond. A property owner is entitled to file a CCB complaint against a contractor for improper work or breach of contract. The CCB may then direct the contractor to reimburse the property owner for damages for a valid complaint. If the contractor does not do so, the bonding company is obligated to pay the funds due to the property owner, up to the amount of the bond. The contractor is legally obligated to indemnify the surety for any losses as defined in the indemnity section of the surety bond application.

At least in Oregon and Washington states the bond protects the owner from unsafe building. This is true even if it passed inspection and a damage causing failure is later found. I don't remember how many years they can go back, but I keep my old code books, and there used to be an exception for exterior outlets over 6.5'. A buddy of mine put several eve outlets in standard receptacles. A new home owner was putting up Christmas lights in the rain, got shocked and fell. The insurance company and lawyers were going after him for damages because that was no longer the code. I found the code book showing it was legal when it was installed, and he did not have to pay, but it still cost him several thousand dollars in legal costs.


Do modern refrigerators and freezers benefit from point-of-use surge protection?

There are some common misconceptions, even with experienced electricians, with respect to surge protective equipment.
Most common surge suppressors are shunt type and function as parallel devices.  When you use a power strip, it doesn't block surge current from reaching the receptacles, it bleeds off surge energy before it gets to those receptacles.
The electronic component that achieves this function in most commonly available surge protection is a metal oxide varistor, or MOV.  MOV's come in different sizes and different qualities with respect to how they react to voltage changes.  Some MOVs are more sensitive than others.
Shunt type surge protectors like MOVs work better when they are closer (in wire distance) to the protected equipment due to the effect of the inductance in the wires.  Longer leads to the MOVs and longer wires to the protected equipment have more inductance and allow more surge energy through to the protected equipment.
The whole house protector on your panel is good,  but it's better still to have point of use surge protection as well.  The point of use protection will usually react faster (more sensitive) and will allow less voltage through to the protected equipment.  The panel protector protects everything in the house and helps dissipate some of the energy so the point of use don't have to do it all on their own.
The major components of appliances are generally pretty robust so traditionally people use more basic point of use surge protection for them.  The receptacles with built-in surge protection were consider pretty basic but adequate.
However everything has a microcontroller any more, and nothing's repairable any more - appliances are made to be disposable - and they are certainly more expensive than ever.  So it makes more sense to use better point of use surge protection for appliances today.
MOVs are sacrificial.  Sometimes they get hit with a big surge and explode.  Sometimes over time they erode blocking smaller surges over time.  Usually the MOVs in appliances are on the small side and don't have a real long lifespan.  I have never seen an appliance that lets you monitor how much life is left in the MOVs.  So although it's good that there's surge protection in appliances, it still makes sense to use point of use surge protection.


What is this dark stain on my flooring and can I fix it?

There are three possible ways to fix this.

Drying, sanding, bleaching, re-staining to match the existing stain, apply clear coat. This option requires that you are able to match the new stain to the color of the rest of the floor. There are videos and how-to articles available to explain the details.
Replace damaged boards with good boards. If the existing floor is worn/old even an exact match of new original flooring will be an obvious repair. There is online information for this process.
Replace the whole floor.

I don't think you will be able to do option 1 and get a match that will please your landlord.

There are people who specialize in repairing this type of floor damage. It won't hurt to get an estimate. Google "repair wood floor water damage" and you'll get a list of businesses. Someone with experience might be able to match the existing floor.

If the repairing the floor won't please your landlord you might be able to persuade him/her that the floor is old and nearing the end of it's life and you should only have to pay some percentage of the whole cost of a new floor.

I'm sorry I don't have easier options.


Is there a dimmer to control both incandescents and LEDs at the same time?

Consider:  A tungsten bulb typically has a 2000 hour life span.  A 200 watt bulb will use 400 kWh of electricity in it's life span.  If you are at a typical 12c/kWh rate that means $48 worth of electricity over it's life, many times the cost of the bulb.

How much are you saving by delaying the replacement?


What circuit does the samsung NE58H9970WS induction range need?

The documentation (PDF) says

  Use only a 3-conductor or a 4-conductor UL-listed range cord...

Range cords typically have NEMA 14-50 Plugs on the end, so you'll need a NEMA 14-50 receptacle to plug the range into.

The documentation also says.

  A range cord rated at 40 amps with 125/250 minimum volt range is required. A 50 amp range cord is not recommended but if used, it should be marked for use with nominal 1 3⁄8” diameter connection openings.

And that the range is rated at 8,750  -  16,500 watts, when connected to a 120/240 volt 3 wire circuit. National Electrical Code says that you'll need at least a 40 ampere breaker, and 8 AWG copper conductors and 10 AWG copper ground.

Here's some further reading explaining the actual code.


What kind of four wire connector is this?

Audio would make sense since the wires are white-black-white-black. That would match up to the two speakers you talked about.

Any line-voltage wires for switches or dimmers would have to be in an electrical box, so that leaves us with low-voltage and media cables as options (or a very bad electrician!).

I was looking around at home audio equipment and I noticed that 4-conductor in-wall speaker wire follows the same color pattern of Red-black-green-white that your connector has.

Although I don't know exactly what this connector is for, home audio seems very, very likely.


Can outdoor receptacle go right over conduit leading to it?

That is where we normally put them and nothing in NEC forbids it.

Also note that a lot of outdoor boxes will have a hole right in the back middle to support this.

After very gently inserting your pipe through the tight hole in the back of your box, please release a generous amount of caulk around the pipe to keep the water out.

(Also box must be screwed/secured into wall)

Examples:

If you want to set it in the wall.

If you want to lay it flat on the wall.


How can I determine if moisture in a basement is due to condenstation vs intrusion through walls?

I have used a piece of plastic like a garbage bag tape one to the walls and 1 to the floor and peel it off the next day if it or they are wet it is coming through the slab and or walls (quite common). The slab might be an easy fix , I have used 2 part epoxy paint for concrete with really good luck to seal floors, cut the amount of water in the dehumidifier drastically. I have only used epoxy paint on block and poured walls not natural stone so I am not sure how well epoxy paint would work there maybe some water seal? Like Thompson’s I have used that on pavers to reduce freeze cracking and that worked so it may help the walls also. Most of the moisture I have found in a dry basement is from the floor and bottom foot or so. It is amazing how much moisture can make it into a dry basement. Check with the plastic taped all 4 edges to see where the problem is coming from. This should prove it to your self and since dry a nice dehumidifier may be all that is needed but in my experience painting sealed things up well.


How to fix hardwood floor moisture damage

If you protect the raised edges and let it dry out over the next 2 weeks to a month, it should go back on its own. There is no discoloration from the dampness. As long as the raised edges do not get cracked before it goes back down...


How do I fix a leaking connector between my garden hose and faucet?

It's possible to get the hose screwed on by hand tightly enough that it won't leak if your grip is strong enough; I think the strength required is within the normal range for an adult (mine is relatively strong though, so your mileage may vary). But before you get a wrench, there's a couple of things you should check:

make sure the threads on the faucet and on the hose are clean; if they've been disconnected over the winter, they could have picked up some dirt or grit which is preventing you from getting a good seal.
the hose is supposed to have a rubber washer to make the seal against the end of the faucet. If it's missing, perished, or not seated correctly, then you won't get a good seal. You can get packs of washers (more than you'll ever use, probably) cheaply at the big box stores.

Once you've got those taken care of, try it with the hose screwed on hand-tight. If you're still getting leaks, you can try using a wrench, but remember that tightening is good, over-tightening is bad because you start to deform the rubber washer, which reduces its effectiveness. Get the hose hand-tight, then use the wrench to go another quarter-turn or so. If it's still leaking, it may be time to get a new hose.


You see that 90 degree bend the wire takes in corner?  That would be cause to have the wire rerouted.  If the casing shows any sign of having been crimped that would be cause to have it replaced.

Since we know the wire needs to be rerouted, how it is rerouted should take care of the issue of protecting it from nails and other sources of damage.


Bought a new (old) house and a new subpanel for the pool was installed. No clue if this is safe

Junctions, done properly, are both fine and a fact of life; whether feeding a sub-panel or not.

While it's not the way I would have run it (because I've turned into a THHN/THWN and conduit for darn near everything person) nothing you have described sounds incorrect or unsafe. If the huge junction box were tiny there might be a problem, but it's not (you need some room to safely splice wires that fat.)

If you want persnickity opinions on details of the work, post pictures and they will get picked apart if there's anything amiss.


The knockouts on plastic boxes are not designed to be removed completely. Rather, they are kinda like trap doors and some pressure against the NM cable helps keep it from slipping back out of the box. In your case, if you have old fabric covered cable, you really should be using boxes with a 1/2" screw type cable clamp. If you insist on using the plastic boxes, then you will have to use a screwdriver and hammer to knock the square door in first, then grab the flap with a pair of linesmen pliers and twist it until it separates from the box.  I guarantee that is going to leave a ragged edge that may still abrade your cable. These plastic boxes were never designed for old degrading cable.  BTW, I was the factory rep for Carlon Inc, manufactures of plastic boxes, many years ago, so I have a bit of background.


Danger of Christmas lights on aluminum trees

It isn't the heat that's the problem. The problem is the fact that those narrow strips of aluminum "needles" can work their way into a lamp socket  (or the extension socket at the end) and make part or all of the tree "live" at some voltage that depends on exactly where along the string the contact occurs. AC-powered LEDs are just as dangerous in this regard as other kinds of lights.

At a minimum, ground the structure of the tree, and plug any lights into a good-quality GFCI. This should catch any single faults before they have a chance of becoming a double fault that could become a fire hazard.

Better still, just stick with the color wheel.


Framers installed shear walls, seismic hardware, and the entire roof with the wrong nails. What now?

There are several issues you’ll need to resolve: 1) was a Building Permit obtained, 2) was the contractor licensed and bonded, 3) is the design correct, 4) was the installation incorrect, 5) is the installation unacceptable

1) This project requires a Building Permit. If one was not obtained, who is responsible. (The contractor will say the home owner is responsible because they are doing just a small part of the construction.) Obviously footings were poured, etc. and those should have been inspected and approved. Now, the framing should have been inspected and approved or rejected. Did the Building Inspector approve the framing? If not why not?

2) The contractor is required to be licensed and bonded. If he was not, why not?

3) Was the design correct? The designer needs to confirm that he did not make a mistake and is v CCB orrery for this installation. Designs are not random. They follow specific guidelines laid out in the Building Code for your area (region). You don’t want the design to be unreasonable, or if it is, then why the “extreme” design.

4) Perhaps the framing was incorrect. You’ll need the designer to confirm the design is correct AND the construction needs to be “fixed”. (“Fixed” May mean “replaced”.) Get their determination in writing. That way, you are not being unreasonable, just following your designers recommendations.

5) You’ll need a third party to review the installation and determine that it is unacceptable. (The contractor will obtain their expert witness and they will say it is acceptable.) Not every project is designed to the maximum performance of nailing, blocking, etc. Often, a lesser nailing pattern, smaller nails, etc. will still provide “adequate” structural performance. Your expert will need to show how the installation is defective AND make a recommendation for the “fix”.

Btw, there is a Builders Board that license contractors in your state that can referee this issue if you do not want to go to court.

Summary:

Just because it was not installed correctly, doesn’t mean it needs to be replaced. Do your homework and get everything in writing.


I have a gap in my concrete window sill, what do I fill it with

I use Quad Window Door and siding sealant.

You can get in grey.

Mask off the sill so you you do not get it where you do not want it. Fill the gap then take you finger and dip it denatured alcohol and use your finger to smooth it out, do not work it to  much. Pull your tape and your done.

It will help to do a practice run on some scrap wood or something so you understand how to work with it.


You have to have 240 Volts across hot legs. Sounds like you're connected to the same hot leg in your panel. Check the voltage across the two breakers, or double pole breaker that the wires are attached to. You should get 240 Volts.


What connectors do I need for this water heater?

The manufacturer has the manual available online. It gives a lot of detail, and does mention using both copper and PEX.

  Step 7:
  1. Connect the water
  supply
  Determine the type of water pipes in
  your home. Most homes use copper
  water pipes, but some use CPVC or
  cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Use
  fittings appropriate for the type of pipe
  in your home. Do not use iron or PVC
  pipe – they are not suitable for potable
  water.
  2.
  Connect the cold water
  supply using 3/4 inch
  National Pipe Thread “NPT”
  to the cold water inlet nipple.
  For ease of removing the water heater
  for service or replacement, connect
  the water pipes with a coupling
  called a union. We recommend using
  a dielectric-type union (available at
  your local plumbing supplier ). Dielectric
  unions can help prevent corrosion
  caused by any electric currents
  common in copper water pipes and
  can help extend the life of the water
  heater.
  3. Connect the hot water supply
  using 3/4 inch NPT to the hot
  water outlet. Follow the same
  connection guidelines as for the cold
  water supply.

Reliance Support Web Page

Reliance Water Heater Installation Guide


How do I prevent doors on a media cabinet from sagging?

Ply is good in shear, helping the door from racking.

I would use euro style hinges, meant for frameless cabinets. They will transfer the door weight better than simple butt hinges.  They also have 3 way adjustments for compensating for sagging over time.  Just be sure to start out with a good gap and room for the hinge to adjust up.


Which type of welder is the best for pretty delicate welds

If you're good with a stick welder, stick with it(no pun intended). Just use a 3/32 rod and set your welder amperage  at around 90 Amps. Do a little practicing. As far as "pretty" goes, that will totally depend on your experience but you can definitely get those results with a stick welder.


I need to make a swinging cat-door in a piece of furniture but I can't figure out how to hinge it

If there is such a hinge it would leave a big gap and the door might be too heavy for your cat to comfortably go through it. I looked into this myself and decided it would be best to just use a cat flap like this one.

http://store.petsafe.net/2-way-locking-cat-door

Alternately you can do something similar like round over the top of your wood and use 2 metal pins on the side but you still have the weight issue. Not sure if they make spring pins big enough but that would make it easy to mount like a toilet paper roll.

Update: I had a little time today to draw out what I was talking about with the rounded over top... I still think the cat flap is the best option but if you want to give this a go...

Couldn't find spring pins big enough to handle this so just routing out a channel to accept the pins then covering with a straight metal bracket or strip of wood might be the only option.

Top needs to be rounded over. Radius should be 1/2 the width of the stock and rounded over on both sides to make a half circle top.

Drill holes and insert metal pins. The metal shelf pins should work.

Insert the door in the slots you routed out for the pins and cover with a small metal bracket attached with screws or something like that to prevent the pins from coming out.


Will copper/iron pipe last longer with/without stand water in shower riser?

The water can stand in the shower riser between showers without ill effect, however dumping the water after each shower is also a common practice and results in little or no long term effects. Both are acceptable and common practice.


Odd ceiling fan wiring, white in hot side of outlet

This white wire feeds a switch loop that provides power to the switch for the fan.  Unfortunately, there are several problems here:

This white wire needs to be tagged with black tape to mark it as a hot
It's not clear where the neutral comes from, but it's clearly not coming from the same box as the hot.  This is at minimum a 300.3(B)/310.10(H) violation due to the wayward neutral (and a great way to screw up things sensitive to magnetic fields), but may also be a much more egregrious violation due to someone abusing the ground as a neutral.
There's another junction box somewhere in this scheme that's doing something odd.  You'll want to find it before doing further fiddling with the circuit.


Would you put heavy tile floor-to-ceiling over this "blueboard"?

What you have is done all the time. In some cases it is set on regular drywall, a little weaker than the blueboard. The loading tests the shear strength of the screws and glue that holds the drywall in place, if it has it. If it was done like that on the ceiling, it would be a different matter.


Wiring for Bedroom - how to express design to electrician

I suggest just break it down into a list of items. So you can clearly discuss each item ( this example may help )

Changes to existing electrical installation.
Lighting
1. 2x Dimmable Lights positioned on the wall either side of the bed.
2. 2x Dimmer/Switches to control these lights positioned on the wall either side of the bed.
3. Two way switching for main room light. One switch located near the entrance to the room, the second switch located positioned on the wall near the bed.

Power Outlets
All outlets to switched double plates with a USB charge point.
4. Existing power outlets relocated one either side of the bed.
5. switch Dbl Outlet near Dressing table.

Location of each point to be confirmed and identified during site inspection before any work begins.

Hope this helps :-)
Most Sparkies are easy to get along with provided they have a clear understanding of what you want and don't change your mind after the work has begun.


Are receptacle surge protectors a practical solution?

The number that I look for is in a surge suppressor is the energy or Joules rating, with the higher the better.  This one is rated for 720 J, which is middle-of-the-road.  You can find surge strips from about 200J to 4000J.

The thing with any modern TV is that you're probably going to be using a co-ax input for cable TV, and potentially an ethernet input too.  For that reason, I'd try to find something with protection for all three: power, co-ax and data.  Even if it does mean compromising on the aesthetics of your installation.

(FWIW, I use Belkin protectors on my equipment and have never had problems... but I do live in a low-lightning part of the world).


If this is correctly wired, using the US color conventions, and the old fan had separate wall-switches for the fan and its lights:

Black: Hot (probably switched hot, power for either fan or light)
Red: "Alternate Hot" (probably switched power for either light or fan -- whichever wasn't supplied by black)
White: Neutral.
Green or bare copper: Safety ground.

Check that with a meter or test light, though!

If you're adding a remote-control receiver, see its instructions for how it connects between power and the fan.


Can a septic system leach field be installed over clean fill?

I have built on filled areas in the past, you have asked all the right questions the first being compaction. In the area I built we had added 4-6' where the house ended up and closer to 8' closer to the back half of a drain field we filled and compacted and met the code back then but we're still required to wait 1 year and repeat the 3rd party compaction test. After that perculation testing after we had 50% of our normal annual rain fall took 2 more years because of a drought. But then we were able to get permits to build. If you are going to be waiting a few more years you may not need the additional compaction testing it was a bit expensive but turning a worthless lot into one worth 80k for just the land it was a no brainer for us.
You have the soil to move around but you would be amazed how many quality loads of fill dirt can be had for a couple of cases of beer. May not be quite the same as this was many years ago at the start of mound systems and they cost up to 10x of a standard field plus the maintaince. But your plan sounds good to me.


How does the cost of conduit compare to conventional wiring?

Running conduit now is definitely cheaper than fishing behind drywall later. It requires a lot of holes in drywall to fish wires, and then each hole needs to be patched, painted, etc. It's also a difficult and potentially time-consuming job, as existing wiring, plumbing, etc gets in the way.

It also depends on how much conduit you're installing of course - you can go overkill and that obviously costs more. Typically in a retrofit, the hardest places to get cables are outside walls (due to insulation/vapour barriers), and walls where there is no unfinished access above/below. It's pretty easy to get wires into first floor walls when you have an unfinished basement or drop ceiling.

Running cables now is not totally future proof, because you can spend a ton of money and run every cable imaginable, and still end up not having the one you need 10 years from now (because it doesn't exist today).

Here are some general tips:

If you know you will want to run cables in the future, and you're finishing the basement, make sure you use drop ceilings in your basement to access the 1st floor - the attic can provide access to the 2nd floor.
Optionally, Run some short conduits to boxes on exterior walls (and put blank faceplates on for now, if nothing else) just so you can easily get wires to them from below.
Utility pipe works great as conduit, and is pretty cheap. 1/2 or 3/4" will work well, though you may need to go bigger if you need to fish wires with connectors attached. Don't put any sharp bends in conduit runs, or you'll have a difficult time fishing later.
You can get signal extenders for many things that use Cat5e/6 wiring. For example: Audio, VGA, HDMI (note this uses two cables), and USB.
Great source for wiring, patch cables, panels, wallplates etc, is Monoprice. I have no affiliation, but I've purchased several times - they're cheap, great quality, and have a huge selection. You can get utility pipe at any home improvement box store.

Here's what I would recommend as a balance:

Run conduit to strategic locations: basement to attic; from your main wiring location to an yplaces you will end up putting a home theater system
Use Cat5e or Cat6 for all your network/phones. It's pretty safe bet that this stuff will be around for a long time, and continue to be useful.

Install at least a couple Cat5e cables to every room, and bring them all back to a central location. Use a patch panel to terminate them, as it's then very easy to re-purpose any individual jack for any purpose

Install speaker wires now for anywhere you're going to put surround sound
If you know you are going to require certain things, might as well run that cable now (eg, in my basement office/TV room, I have an HDMI cable going from where my desk is to the receiver on the other side of the room so I can put my computer screen on the TV).
If you're putting in a projector, run a conduit between it and your home theater gear.


Part 2 - What sort of ceiling fan support do I need where I can't find framing?

The box you used is for a light fixture and is designed to be installed during construction before the drywall is installed. It is not designed for a fan, and even for a light it cannot be installed with the ceiling drywall already in place.

You need to get one that is listed as retrofit for a fan, e.g., Home Depot ceiling fan retrofit The retrofit ceiling fan support allows one to expand the support against the ceiling joists by rotating the bar, then the box is fastened to the bar. See the video on the link.


What should I do about excess flex in cement board that will be behind tile?

Since they're up, I agree adding blocking is a PITA.

However, if its an inside wall that you have access to the other side of, use a "BIG GAP" polyurethane foam.  Drill a series of 1/4" holes every 12" down the middle of each joist bay.  Spray a 3 sec burst in each.  Wait 12 hr and try the flex, it should be quite firm now.

You may not want to do this near the plumbing valve, for replacement purposes.  It won't hurt it, though.


Still looking for a 3-way dimmer switch that matches my existing light switches

Not all LED bulbs are dimmable.  You need to purchase LED bulbs that specifically are labeled as dimmable.  However, any dimmer switch labeled as LED will work.  There are many different switches available, as long as they say "LED dimmer".


I'd call somebody out to investigate.  While a question like this may be off topic here; because we can't smell through the internet, your sons symptoms are quite alarming. If it smells like rotten eggs, it could be a natural gas leak, and your son is being gassed while he sleeps. It could also be sewer gas, which also is not healthy to breath.

Since this issue is affecting the health of your son, you should take more action than asking a bunch of nincompoops on the internet. A local fire department has the equipment to test for gas leaks, and are more than willing to investigate for you. As testing for a gas leak, is much easier than putting out the fire it could lead to.