How can I find out if I can add a bedroom to my home without violating any rules/ordinances?

Building regulations are generally controlled by either

the municipality (city/town/township/village) if you live in one, or
the county

Start with the first. Most often there is a planning or zoning office that regulates both commercial and residential construction.

Or you could consult a local builder and ask him or her what permissions you need (but double check any answer that you get; some unscrupulous builders will say you don't need any, and post construction, you may have a problem).


Should wall tile or a countertop be installed first?

Normally a countertop is fit to a finished wall, so that if the top is changed the wall remains intact. The exception would be a backsplash, which is almost like an extension of the countertop.


The walls themselves are probably not load-bearing but there may be a post that supports a beam or a beam junction.
The best way to proceed is to hire an engineer before making such a substantial alteration. My bet is, there is sooner a post than a whole wall that bears the load. And, if I wanted to do further homework before hiring a professional, I would look at the orientation of the joists. The walls that are parallel to your joists are unlikely to be load-bearing. Ones that are perpendicular, may be. Both of those wall types may be hiding a post inside. To determine joist direction, remove one of the two ceiling air returns or vents you have there and you will likely reveal the joists. This will save you making unnecessary holes in the wall at this point.
One important heads-up:
I just did a renovation in my house where I opened up a kitchen and living room and I am talking from my experience. I ended up leaving the post in a small wall that I left alone and the plan still looks very open, however, leaving the post was the least of my problems.
The walls I removed were full of electric wiring, HVAC ducts, and even a natural gas pipe. Luckily there was no water plumbing as it would have complicated things even more. It is likely that the builders used these walls as an easy way to route all these things between the levels of your house.
As you confirm the "demolitability" of that wall, be prepared to plan for possibly routing electric, HVAC, and other things that can complicate things immensely depending on how much you are willing to demolish in the process. In my case, I had to run a few new cables all the way from the basement, as the existing wire wouldn't reach to where I wanted it and I would no longer have a room for Jbox either. I had to reroute HVAC ducts under the floor and above the ceiling (in the attic space). If you have access to look under your floor and above the ceiling, you will gain a better understanding of what you are dealing with.
I don't mean to discourage you, it maybe completely DIY-doable (I did and I had no prior experience in the project as involved as this), and you may have a very easy case. Just be prepared for these things as you plan. Ask a lot of questions here before you assume and after your own research. If you think through and plan well, you will likely come up with some creative ways to go around obstacles and still stay to the code. Folks here are amazing and I couldn't have done all this that easily if I hadn't had their help (thanks folks!)
Here is a before-after of the things I had to deal with in just ONE wall.

Here is another where non-load-bearing wall concealed a load-bearing post, as well as ducts.


Installing a Heavy Sliding Barn Door into Metal Studs

I think it'll hold, but I'd have done a couple things differently.

A taller board would've reduced the tension on your fasteners and the rotational torque on the board. I'd have gone with a 2x6 or a 5/4x6 board, or even a 1x6 if thickness is an issue. As it is you might see some gapping along the top as things flex.
Fasteners nearer the top would do the same. When you install your additional screws, put them 3/4" down. That's where most of the pullout force occurs. Picture a hinge running along the bottom of your board. If there's room, put both additional screws above the toggle bolts.

Regarding your questions...

Again, it'll hold. Worst case you get some bulging from the stud flange flexing. If you see that, make improvements.
Your lag screws will penetrate the studs fine. I assume that you'll pilot the wood and steel appropriately, which you certainly should. For 1/4" lags I'd pilot 5/32". For 5/16" lags, 3/16".


I would take a very close look at that interior panel.   From the look of your outside 4-space "panel", it looks to be your main service panel, and contains your main breaker and your neutral-ground bond.  It's a bit like a "rule of six" panel: it appears you can/must shut off both breakers independently, e.g. The A/C will still have power if you shut off the 100A.

As such, the interior panel is a subpanel.  It doesn't need a main breaker since the main panel is attached to the building.

So I would take a very, very close look at the panel interior and look at Siemens' line of panels.  What I'd be looking for is a 16-20 space subpanel that is the exact same physical form-factor as your panel internally. That is to say, all the bolt holes are in the same place, and you could unbolt the guts of the new panel and they would just bolt up  into your existing panel chassis.

Because the hairy-scary thing about changing service panels isn't the guts, it's uncabling/unplumbing all the cable connections around the edges of the panel.  It's fairly easy to pop the breakers off (you don't even need to remove the wires) and remove the feeders from their lugs.  Tuck it all back so you can get to the main busbar assembly, then swap it with one with more spaces.

From there, I would move the A/C load into the RV's main panel.  Then use the breaker formerly for A/C, and use that to feed the shop subpanel.

The main panel's breakers total 125A, a common electrical service.  I would not allow them to total more unless you consult with the electric company about the service they are providing you, and whether it can handle more.


The overwhelming consensus here seems to be standard painter's caulk so marking this as answered.  Thanks to all that responded.


Does anyone recognized this PEX Crimp System (Make/Model)?

This is just one variation of the PEX crimp ring.  Some rings come with plastic to hold them in place, some do not.  If you do a search for "3copper pro crimp ring" you will find this.  You can buy these at the big-box hardware stores, online, and probably at the smaller hardware stores as well.


What is the minimum roof slope to accommodate rainwater drainage?

"What is considered an acceptable angle for a roof to ensure that there will be sufficient run-off during rain conditions?"

Generally, minimum slope for water to run off is 1% (1/8" per 1').
However, minimum slope for a flat roof by building code here is 2%. (1/4" per 1').

You have more than enough slope for your roof, however you will likely need some sort of membrane roofing since it is very low slope.

There are profiled metal roof cladding systems specifically designed for low-slope application. I don't know if any would be good for a slope as low as what you've got, so that is something you would have to look in to. Maybe call local roofing supplier and see if they have anything that would work for you.

The lowest slope you can do for a shingled roof (that I know of) is 1 in 4.


How to temporarily repair a hole in a window pane?

I'd do the packaging tape and call it a day. If the glass is clean it'll hold no problem. If you're really worried, silicone or similar would fill the void between the tape.

Then, start looking for your neighborhood vandal.


how do I reprogram a wired keypad for a garage door opener?

I have the same keypad outside the garage and a panel with large rectangular pushbutton inside. The Keypad is wired to the indoor panel and the panel is wired in turn to the opener. Have had it for 25 years since it came with a 1994 Craftsman opener. When the battery dies the code is lost and needs to be reset.

Make sure you have a fresh battery! There should be no need to disconnect the battery or unplug the opener. In fact, if you unplug the battery the circuit board in the panel has no power and cannot be programmed. What is being programmed is the circuit board in that panel NOT the opener as is done with wireless remotes for your cars or wireless keypads. The reason to unplug the opener is probably a safety concern. It is very easy while working with the panel to accidentally push the large button on the panel and operate the door opener! The door might strike you or someone else.

To program the following is the easy procedure Just open the small rectangular plastic plate on the panel where the battery is located, move switch to "program". Enter desired 4 digit code on the keypad. Move switch back to "operate". Test by entering the code.

Note: while the opener is working you can touch any key on the keypad to stop/reverse it. When the door closes you can re-open it while the light is still on in the keypad by pressing any key. Once the light goes out you must enter the 4 digit code again.


Axial or centrifugal fan for short run out of kitchen?

If not over a stove it may not matter much but if over a stove where it will pick up more grease and be harder to clean if centrifugal. The blades on an axial would be easier to clean and that is what I would use for ease of cleaning.


Do wooden cabinets absorb grease in kitchen?

If you do a lot of frying and don't have an effective ventilation system grease will accumulate on kitchen surfaces. The key point is adequate ventilation to control the movement from the cooking area. The range hood should vent to the outside, not just filter and recirculate. The grease that does settle shouldn't penetrate the finish on the cabinets. The more ornate the surface the more difficult it will be to clean the nooks and crannies.


Can I secure a new non load-bearing interior wall to the existing ceiling and strapping?

Even though the wall doesn't need to bear weight, it needs lateral support so it doesn't tip over.  How much lateral support you need to satisfy engineering requirements and code compliance depends on many things, seismic requirements, type of wall construction, dimensions of wall, endwall attachment, etc.  If the wall will carry shelving or cabinetry, it needs more lateral support.

Attaching the top of the wall to a structural member above is usually the easiest way to provide lateral support but not the only way.  It's possible to build partition walls that don't extend all the way to the ceiling above, usually by extending the end studs through the floor to attach to the joist below.

Attaching to the strapping would provide some support but since strapping is part of the finish, non-structural, you can't really count on it for support.  It's also possible that the load on the strapping might cause some cracks or other blemishes on the drywall ceiling.

In commercial construction it's common to see partition walls attached to the acoustical ceiling grid at the top, which would seem like a similar method, but it's debatable if attaching to the ceiling grid complies with current building codes.

Bottom line, you might get away with attaching to the strapping, but installing blocking is the right way to go.


These hinges, when both are mounted with the pin facing up with pin side mounted to the door jamb OR when both are mounted with the pin facing down with the pin side secured to the door - it allows the door to be easily removed.
When one hinge is flipped the opposite direction with one pin pointing up and the other one pointing down it prevents the removal of the door. Pretty simple actually.


4 awg wire too large for circuit breakers

I would go to 240V power instead of thick wire

First I would contact the manufacturer of the heater and see if they make a 240V version instead of 120V. Then I would run it as a 240V circuit instead of 120V, at what is typically half the amps.

When you double the voltage and halve the amps, useful power is the same, but you reduce losses by a factor of 4.  Which means you can go down 6-8 sizes in wire on a long run like this.  Plug it into a voltage drop calculator and you'll see.


Grout - you are going to have to trial and error the color since there are about 30 shades of white.   You need to mix the grout - super super small batch, let it dry, make sure color is close enough, then fill the gaps.   You will need to read instructions on how to do this but that is a different question.   Do not just fill the gaps with whatever you find as different coloring will look really really bad.   You can get away with some variance but can't be way off.


Is it possible to install a whole house humidifier away from the furnace?

I suggest a swamp cooler - or as Home Depot calls them online 'Portable Evaporative Cooler.'

The big ones (which do come with wheels), a seem to do well in the reviews. There are many negative ones, but those seem mostly from people who do not understand what the product does. The are listed under the Air Conditioning heading, and talk about how much cooler they will make the room.

But you will not sell many with a slogan of 'These things toss water in the air, hope it sticks to you, and when the hot air, with no humidity from outside hits you, it will evaporate off your skin, and you will feel cooler'.

However, if your goal is to have humidity - even most of the negative reviews will sound good to you.


How to remove a screw inserted from the wrong side in an IKEA ALEX drawer unit?

As you turn the screw to unscrew it, press on the "point" of the screw to counter the force on the screwdriver trying to push the screw back into the drawer runner. That should allow it to unscrew.


Power to light fixture is on, light doesn't turn on

Check if the white you're connecting to is a 'permanent phase' coming from another switch, in older installation was allowed to use white as phase in switch circuits (white was permanent phase from junction box to switch and black coming out of the switch was the switched phase bringing phase to the fixture).


Additional exhaust vents needed for whole house fan

If the TOTAL attic venting (ridge, soffit, gable, turbines, vent cans, etc. combined) is more than the fan requires, you're fine.  If it's not enough, figure how much more you need to add to satisfy the fan, then balance that to provide 50-60% of the total attic ventilation as intake (soffits or low on the roof) and 40-50% as exhaust (gables or high on the roof).  When you run the house fan, it can pressurize the attic and exhaust out of all the vents, including the soffits.  Since you only run the fan a short time in the morning, before the attic heats up, there won't be any issue with air going out the soffits instead of in.  When you turn off the fan and the attic heats up, the airflow will return to normal - in the soffits and out the ridge and gables.

A whole house fan needs 1 ft^2 NFVA per 750 CFM.  A 36" whole house fan moving 7600 CFM from the house into the attic needs a total of 7600/750 = 10.13 ft^2 or about 1460 in^2 of net free vent area (NFVA) from the attic to the outside.

1460*40% = 584, 1460*50% = 730, 1460*60% = 876.  Thus, you should aim to have 730 to 876 in^2 NFVA in your soffits and 584 to 730 in^2 for exhaust as high as practical.

FWIW, a combination of soffit & ridge vent (or near the ridge) is better than soffit & gables.  The gables don't remove the hot air from above them or as effectively from the center of the house.


I've dealt with several carpenter ant nests in houses. One thing I've found very useful is to have a good shopvac handy when opening the wall, either form the inside or the outside, to vacuum up the ants and eggs.

Also, you mentioned water damage. Carpenter ants use rotted wood for their tunneling, never dry solid wood. Termites - I'm not an expert but my reading says they prefer solid wood because they digest the cellulose fibers in the wood and rotted wood those fibers are not so much there. So I'm leaning towards thinking you have carpenter ants. I live in Michigan, FWIW.

If you do have carpenter ants, vacuuming most of them up, spraying ant spray as far into the wall cavity as you can go, and replacing the rotted wood and fixing the cause of rotted wood will almost certainly fix your problem. These steps have worked for me.


What you are looking for, then, is a security door.  These are essentially storm doors with metal bars that make entry more difficult.  They come in a variety of styles and prices.  If you need the "storm" protection as well, you can get some that include glass or plastic, or you can mount a plastic sheet to the inside.

It will look better than a solid non-transparent metal door, and provide significantly more security than any storm door, without a significant increase in cost.

Also, keep in mind that storm and security doors are relatively simple.  If you cannot find what you want, you can buy the door hardware (hinge, latch, gas spring return), sheet metal, and metal tubing to create your own.  A hacksaw, drill, and screws or rivets, plus metal paint, is all you need. It won't be as secure as a security door, though, unless you buy security door hardware. But if all you're looking for is a storm door without glass, this would provide the same level of security.

Also worth considering is buying a storm door with a plastic window.  Some additional clips, or replacing the window with plastic, will provide slightly more security while maintaining the look of a traditional storm door.


Aircon cold enough only when weather is cold?

A non acid foaming coil cleaner on the outside condensing unit will work much better than vacuuming. If you can see light through the fins this may not be needed and a service call to fill the system may be needed. If low on freon the tech may be able to find the leak. Many times on older units the service port caps get loose and need some sealer on the threads after a recharge.


Installing double-pole line voltage thermostat for 2 baseboard heaters

Two long for a Comment: It looks right after a couple more sips of coffee.
I did not follow your wiring , not enough coffee yet. But I think your old thermostat is only breaking 1 side for each heater, this is a trick we used to do to double the ability of a single thermostat. We would tie the whites together with one of the hots (usually the white hot and Mark them black) we would then use the supply or other hot to both of the line sides of the stat. Next we would put 1 heater on t1 and 1 heater on t2 this way a double pole stat could control 2x it’s listed ampacity (but each would be be below the max) this worked great since most rooms have multiple heaters. Yours are both in parallel on one contact I would have split them up so the stat would last longer. As you did and yes it looks like you did it correctly. Please verify your new stat is listed for use without a neutral. Some can use the ground and some require the neutral, and some only need the 240v but it looks good.


Mould removal - how bad does it need to be before cleaning isn't enough?

I'd expect you don't have much to worry about.  Mould isn't great but it exists outside in the nice fresh air as well.  There are some moulds that are quite toxic but you'd need to do air sampling to find out if you have high enough levels of spores to pose any health concerns.  Are you sure you even have mould and not algae?

There are cases where you should be more concerned if you are immunocompromised, only have one lung, are an infant or elderly, etc.  If you are constantly sick then you might want to spend more time worrying but then I'd hope you are living in a place with no carpet as well.  You could buy yourself an air purifier with a hepa filter.  A lot of moulds/dust mites/fungus will grow on dust in carpet or even on walls.

Once you have the leak fixed, make sure it gets dry and just seal the mdf underneath with some kind of paint.  I'd bet the majority of kitchens/bathrooms have some amount of mould / fungus / algae growing in them.  MDF especially the old kind contains formaldehyde resins which off gas vocs but also impede the growth of biological agents like mould.

Do you have a picture of your mould?

The epa states that you should call a professional in if you have more than 10 square feet of mold - which would be a lot.  This doesn't sound like that.  The worst thing is to have mold growing in your bedroom as that is where you sleep.  One other thing I'd recommend is to have a hygrometer in your unit.  If the levels are ever over 55% you should buy and run a dehumidifier as you will have mold growing in your carpet / furniture / etc.  Some mould under your sink is only a little bit worse than mold in your plumbing pipe which is pretty much guaranteed.

How big of an area of mold are we talking about?

This link talks about the different kind of molds and states that the black mold which is the one to worry about virtually needs constant flowing water
https://www.tuck.com/sleep-and-mold/

This is the WHO guidelines for indoor air quality.  http://www.euro.who.int/__data/assets/pdf_file/0017/43325/E92645.pdf

This is a good reference for establishing what mold remediation companies consider clean and it seems like unit that have not had flooding issues typically fall into the clean category.

https://inspectapedia.com/mold/Airborne_Mold_Count_Number_Guide.php

No amount of mold is good for you but since it is ubiquitous you should strive to limit your exposure.  Molds live on plants, in the soil, in your carpet, in leaves from trees, you can't really achieve no exposure without living in a bubble.  From the description in your case you have a small amount and you have limited exposure given the location.  I'd stick with my recommendation, get the faucet leak addressed - maybe they'll decide to replace the counter/sink at the same time (can't hurt to ask).  If they don't scrub it out as best you can (wear a 99.9 mask), let it dry and encapsulate the area (an oil based paint would likely do the trick).

This renters guide for mold seems to have decent advice.

https://inspectapedia.com/sickhouse/Rental_Unit_Mold.php


Can combing bent evaporator coil fins damage it?

You could follow the manufacturer's advice - they tend to know what they are talking about...

But if you insist on trying to straighten those bent fins, then use something that will not poke a hole in any of the tubes and go gently.

I have done this for similar heat exchangers with that type of fin and it is possible. Also for heat exchangers which have loops of wire, go slowly and carefully.


What features do I need in a stud finder for use on plaster walls?

This stud finder with magnet and level is what I keep on me at all times.  It is the only stud finder that I have and works excellently.  It is strong enough to pick up nails used for crosses most of the time too.

I have no affiliation with the product - I am just a customer that has bought 6-7.  The magnet is super strong and the pointer + level help.   The only downside is the plastic tip breaks on every one if I drop it, but it still does the trick.  A bonus is that it finds screws, nails, tools, whatever... in hard to see/reach places. I don't know how many times I was up in an attic and dropped something and pulled out the stud finder.


Can I have a separate thermostat for a wood boiler?

You don't offer much detail in your question, so it's difficult to determine exactly what you want to do.  If you're just looking for manual control you could just energize the G terminal on the furnace, which will run the fan in high speed mode (if the furnace has a variable speed motor). Most thermostats have a switch labeled AUTO and FAN. If you put the switch in the FAN position, the G terminal of the thermostat will be connected to the R terminal (meaning the G terminal is energized).

If you want automatic control, you might be able to use a thermostat that has multiple heating controls.  Then  you might be able to use the W2 terminal of the thermostat to turn on the furnace fan, and the outdoor boiler.

Again, without more information it's difficult to tell you exactly what you can/should do.


How to properly bond metal junction box with 6 AWG conductors

First off, why is the ground #6? Seems big unless the circuit is over 60A.

Personally, as Tester commented, I'd use a double lug screwed to the box via a machine thread screw, that is if you can find one small enough. The one Tester linked is quite large for the application. Smaller ones might be hard to find though.
This one is the smallest I could find:
http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/Burndy-K2A25U-Two-Conductor-Terminal-Lug/159535

Another alternative is to splice the two grounds to a third tail and connect that to a single small lug screwed to the box.
http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/Blackburn-Elastimold-L70-Type-L-Slot-Screw/3978


Do floating floorboards still shift after a decade?

How much does the humidity in your house vary over the course of a year? If it's a constant humidity and temperature all year round, no movement should take place. If, as is more normal, it's dry in the winter and wet in the summer, the floor will move "forever." Depends on your HVAC approach, and how much it is or is not like a museum's. No open windows, constant heat or A/C and humidification/dehumidification, no movement. If you like to open the windows from time to time, movement...


What is the minimum size conduit/mast required for a 100 amp overhead service?

Although you're probably safe by using the NEC as a minimum, this is going to vary somewhat based on jurisdiction and power company. You should contact your local inspection authority and your power company.


How to replace pull-switch on ceiling light?

Honestly that looks like a fairly inexpensive light fixture. Why not consider just purchasing a replacement fixture?

A fixture built with the riveted type of wire connectors, ceramic bulb socket and with that type of sleeving on the wires is a high temperature rated fixture. It will really not be feasible to try to repair the unit and keep it's rating intact.

Get yourself a replacement fixture with LED lighting to reduce power consumption and lower overall operating temperature.


First we must determine whether your motion sensors are wired or wireless.

Wired

The wired PIR motion sensors used in security systems since roughly forever are pretty simple devices. You feed them 12 volts dc to power the electronics; they contain a relay which opens or closes to indicate motion. Some will have a SPDT relay so that the installer can choose whether to use the normally open or normally closed contact. "Normally" means the inactive or resting state of the device, ie no motion detected.

If your ADT system is wired there'll be a control panel buried in a closet or utility room somewhere in the house. Open it up and you'd most likely find a 4-conductor cable for each motion sensor. If the motion sensors are grouped into zones then it's possible you'd have one cable for each zone; each sensor might not have its own "home run" cable back to the panel.

All these wired sensors could be fed into some kind of multi-input interface. That might be built around an Arduino, a Raspberry Pi, or some other experimenter/hobbyist platform.

Wireless

If your motion sensors are wireless then things aren't necessarily harder, just different. First you'll have to figure out what RF frequency and protocol they use. At very least they should be labelled with an FCC ID number which reveals the manufacturer and model of the device, and from there the rest can be discovered. They might also simply be labelled such that a person familiar with the industry would recognize them. GE/Interlogix is one particular make that's quite prolific. Each sensor has a unique serial number which it periodically transmits along with its battery state, contact state, and other info. Receivers are available that can listen for these sensor transmissions and send it over a serial bus like RS-232.

Pulling it together

Identifying what sort of sensors you're working with is the easy part. From here you're probably going to be looking for some kind of open source home automation platform such as openHAB, Home Assistant, etc. These may provide a software framework for receiving the security sensor inputs and putting them into a web or mobile app front end you can use. This all goes beyond the scope of the DIY stack exchange, but hopefully I've given enough ideas and key words to help your research get started.


Could someone explain these wiring diagram symbols please?

2 is your lamp's ceiling rose.   A standard 3/3/2 splice won't quite be enough because both always-hot and switched-hot are being carried onward to the fan, it's unusual for both to be carried onward at once.

2b is your lamp.


If it's because they've loosened/pulled out, the next step might be to go with larger diameter screws.  Drill the holes out bigger, replace with bigger screws for more bite.


The hardest piece of your question is the sag and being able to support the weight of someone resting at the mid point.

A 2x4 ledger attached to the 3 walls to support the desk solves everything except the sag.

At ~7ft across, for the sag the best option is probably metal angle iron set back 6" from the front and secured to the side walls using either a bracket or the ledge used to the support the desk.  Maybe a 2"x2" angle iron at 3/8 thickness.  You could also use a couple brackets from #2 to add support to the angle iron from the back wall.


Should you seal grout when using RedGard Backing?

You don't have to.  It is completely up to you.  Sealing the grout is doing absolutely nothing as far as water-proofing your current setup.  I Redgard/HB many showers/tubs and here is what I do:

unsanded - gets sealant.  In my opinion it stains easily, especially below level where water constantly hits.
sanded - don't seal it.  It looks better unsealed and this grout allows you to "sand" out a stain.
epoxy - no sealant of course.


How to polish an old dull fiber shower+tub combo?

Here's what I did, while it doesn't give you the brand new tub experience, it is much cheaper and faster than a tub refinish, considering that DIY refinish is a pain and possibly a bad investment vs professional services($$$).
First clean with Bar Keepers Friend. Then dry everything
Next, use car rubbing compound with electric rotary polishers. I tried rubbing with my hands and it was not close to cutting it on the tub.
You can use different types of polishing pads from coarse to fine, and that really  gets the surface smooth feeling as well as get rid of some of the harder stains. It also helps with light scratches.
Finally, refinish with a car polish spray, it keeps a fairly waterproof finish on the surface to keep the tub cleaner longer.
The tub is finally presentable and a delight to bathe in, it will look clean and feel smooth, but perhaps I slacked a bit on the polishing, it doesn't have the shine.
Hope this helped someone who needed an in-between solution


is there a sandable compound I can use for a final skim coat over StructoLite plaster?

You can use a setting type of drywall compound like Durabond. You will need to apply at least two light coats to finish.


How can I reduce a rough opening height 1-1/4"?

Cut a 2x4 to length and rip 1-1/4" off each side. Put those up against the top plate, one inside and one outside. The half inch hollow in between is inconsequential.

End view
 _____
|_____| <-- top wall plate
|_| |_| <-- 1-1/4" high rippers


Compressors don't get the luxury of oil changes

You know how the oil in your car breaks down after a while, meaning you have to take your car over to the local quick-lube or up onto the jackstands in your garage and have the oil changed (or do it yourself)?  Well, there's oil in your air conditioner too, mixed with the refrigerant, and it breaks down due to heat and traces of moisture just like the oil in your car does.  Worse yet, when was the last time your air conditioner got its oil changed?

As a result of this oil breakdown, it turns into an acidic, sludgy substance that has very poor lubricating properties, causing the compressor to work harder.  Atop this, the acids attack the insulating varnish in the compressor windings, causing it to break down and lose its insulating ability.  As a result, the compressor "burns out", either from being no longer able to spin due to a lack of lubrication or internal shorts in the windings due to the broken-down varnish.

It's possible to catch this ahead of time, by having an HVAC technician use an insulation tester ("megger") to test the integrity of the insulating varnish when the system is commissioned and on a regular basis (such as on a yearly service call) thereafter.  The resulting trend readings can predict compressor failures before they happen, and as a result, it's a common practice when maintaining commercial compressors.

Unfortunately, neither insulation tests nor oil changes are part of residential air conditioner maintenance.  While changing the oil in an air conditioner requires a pro (it's mixed in with the refrigerant after all, so they have to swap the refrigerant charge out for a fresh one in the process), perhaps having it done every 5 or 10 years would be wise?  It'd probably be cheaper than burning through a new compressor every 15 years or so, at least, especially considering that roughly half of compressor failures are due to internal wearout.


Just from the pictures it looks like a bad install.  The cracks look like they are rolled.  They aren't on any parts of the structure where there are two joints meeting or any sort of weak point.  They are basically right in the middle of a wood framed exterior.

[Remember this advice is just based on me looking at a couple pictures and from what you said about inspection.  I am thinking that your inspector really looked hard on the other side of these cracks and found nothing.  They don't seem structural (but could be).  So I am really relying on your inspector doing a thorough job.]

How would I approach this?  First @Jack's comments are correct.  It looks like EIFS.  So I would get a couple of EIFS/Stucco installers out to get quotes on what they think is wrong and how to correct.  I am going to guess that there were installation steps or materials skipped.  A total guess would be that they left no expansion gaps for the insulation and that the insulation expanded and pushed out the finish layer.

If the installers say something similar and quote you something now you have a dilemma.  This doesn't seem to be a huge thing.  But given they made a mistake here, it was probably made everywhere.  This is probably the first issue since it is the biggest continuous exterior wall.

So I would go into this with the thinking that if it is an install issue then you might have more.  I would also figure out the age of the install.  If it is less than 5 years old I would think this waves can pop up everywhere.  If it is 10-15 years old I would be less concerned.  But really it looks to me to be a cosmetic issue and if you are the type of person that doesn't care about that as much, it really isn't a big deal.  Really this is why stucco and EIFS has more issues in temperate climates and is found more in the far south (or Spain and France).


**** Howdy partner, normally for something like this you should install a sub-panel, which is a mini-breaker box. Since you have both lights and tools, I would consider a sub panel pretty much mandatory. In the subpanel you may, for example, have one 15-amp circuit for the lights and 2 20-amp circuits for the tools, for a total of 55 amps. You could use a 60 amp sub panel or a 100 amp subpanel (which would leave room for expansion). If your "tools" are big machine tools like lathes, milling machines, large table saws, etc, I would recommend going with the 100-amp subpanel.

Because this is a long run you should use 1 size larger than normal for the wire. For example, for a 60-amp sub panel, the standard wire size is 6 gauge, but you should use 4 gauge for a long run. Likewise, for a 100-amp panel standard is 2 gauge, and 1/0 gauge for a long run.


For a small job like that, I think construction adhesive would do the trick. Most local hardware stores should sell it. You'd need a caulking gun, about $5 bucks, to spread the adhesive. The adhesive comes in a cardboard tube similar to the one below. There are many different types.


Main breaker and branch breaker tripped simultaneously

Very simple: Massive power overload from the oven.
The 70A and 50A tripping at the same time means:

Problem is past the 50A. Since that has just one appliance, we know the source of the overload.
Since 70A tripped, must be greater than 70A, which of course is also greater than 50A.
Since breakers are generally designed with a thermal trip curve to avoid trips from motor startup and similar short surges, this was likely far more than 70A, because if it was 71A it would trip the 50A quickly but not the 70A.

My guess is an element (oven or cooktop) failed but short circuited along the way, tripping the breakers.
I'd be extremely wary of turning on the 50A (the 70A is fine) without getting the oven checked by a professional first. If you're in a rental, call the landlord.


How long does Kilz need to dry before skim coating?

The best suggestion is to read the manufacturers instructions on usage. This information is often printed on the paint container label. You can also check at the manufacturers web site and look up the particular type of paint you are using.

For example: http://www.kilz.com/products/primer/kilz-complete
Click on the "PREPARATION, APPLICATION & CLEAN-UP" tab near bottom.


Why am I reading less than nominal voltage on my receptacle?

you have dropped a neutral.
the white wire is gone.
also called a loose neutral.
check all receptacles on the circuit.
if its only the one. turn off power and check the wiring is tight.
if its tight replace
if its loose tighten. (you should replace anyways. loose connection could have caused damage)
if its all of them and you notice that lights are a little dim in that area of the house. start at the breaker panel and work your way through he circuit checking for loose connections.
a 3light plug checker may read hot-ground reversed on an open neutral not open neutral.
the good news is that your nice and grounded.


Will a bryant compatible 60amp breaker fit a #2 wire?

On the side or front of the breaker, there is a label that says what the maximum wire size is that you can use. This label is required by UL when the breaker is made. It may have fallen off however. If so, you can look on-line for a similar breaker. Bryant is now part of Cutler Hammer, their version of that breaker is called a BR series with the BR standing for Bryant. The breaker is unchanged from when Westinghouse owned the Bryant line (Westinghouse was bought by Eaton years ago, Eaton owns Cutler Hammer). So any technical specs on a new version are going to be the same.


Where can I get a new key for an old lock?

For a lock that's 50-60 years old, I'd be tempted to replace the whole thing. Just go to the hardware store and pick a similar one up so all you need to do is unscrew the old and screw in the new. Typically the inside of the lock is screwed into the outside half of the lock, and the bolt is screwed into the door on the side.

The biggest gotcha is if the hole changes size or position, not uncommon with an old lock, which is why you're better off finding a very close match. When I had to enlarge a hole in a metal door, I managed to rig two hole saws together on a common center mount so that the smaller hole saw guided the larger saw. Without this particular hole saw model, or if you need to shift the position of the hole, you'd need to first patch the hole so the saw has something to keep it from sliding all over the door, and of course this only works if you're enlarging the hole to include the entire space of the old lock.


How to join hardwood rows from two rooms at doorway?

I think your plan is good.  I use a metal L to do my transitions like this.  You have to figure out where you want your "perpendicular threshold" boards to start and screw in the Ls on each side.  This way you can start at the doorway and jam the boards against the L.  This will give you a nice straight line.  I have also left the Ls in some transitions and it gives a really cool look.  But if you don't want them then take it out after your surrounding rooms are done and nail in your threshold area last.


What year did the NEC (US) require all new construction switches and outlets to have ground screws?

Technically it happened about the same time that UL started listing non-metallic boxes for residential use. When the boxes ("handy" boxes) were steel, any device body was grounded by virtue of the mounting screws. Once the boxes became non-conductive, the devices that REQUIRED grounding needed to have grounding screws. When I started as an electrician in the mid 70s, the code stated that for metallic boxes, you had to ground to the box but for non-metallic boxes (at that time they were still "bakelite"), you had to ground devices that "required grounding". That is still the way it reads to this day (250.148).

"One or more equipment grounding
conductors brought into a nonmetallic outlet box shall
be arranged such that a connection can be made to any
fitting or device in that box requiring grounding."

The tricky part was, when did switches start "requiring" a grounding screw? That changed only when UL started requiring ground screws on switches, some time around 2010. When there was no ground screw, there was no "required" grounding.


it is a good idea to turn on heating at the end of every air conditioning cycle at home for keeping filters clean against molds?

No.

Your filter is before the fan, before the cooler. Condensation occurs far after that.


How to protect the AC from power spikes - a hardwired surge protector, or UPS?

They are intended for different purposes:

Surge protectors are mostly designed to protect against lightning strikes, although more expensive models may include some kind of power conditioning (protecting against smaller surges).

A UPS, (Uninterruptible Power Supply), on the other hand, is designed to provide some amount of power to a computer during a power outage, helping to prevent data loss, etc.  These also usually include a surge protector and power conditioning, of various qualities.

Motors, compressors, etc. generally draw a large amount of power on startup, unlike computers, which may cause problems.  You probably also do not need your devices to keep running for a short amount of time during a power outage (if you do, a UPS would be the way to go).

Whatever you do choose, make sure that it is rated for the power and voltage being used, and that it is intended to be used in that manner.

As ThreePhaseEel stated above (beat me to it, it seems), a hardwired surge suppressor is probably your best bet.


Bleeding a Cast Iron Radiator with No Bleeder Valve

The heating system is what is called a "1" pipe heating system. It is not a hot water system therefore the radiator does not require bleeding. I can not see  the make or model number of the vent on the radiator so I can't comment on whether it the correct type. Also make sure that the inlet valve on the left side is fully open and not partially closed. Be careful when replacing the vent on that radiator  or any of the radiators when the boiler is firing, steam can come out a cause very bad burns. Is this a single family home or an apartment? If it is an apartment call the building manager and have them replace the vent. If it a single family home make sure that you turn the boiler off before working on any part of the system.


Should I paint the back side of vertical shiplap cedar siding

It is definitely better to prime the back of the siding before it is installed. It will keep moisture from being absorbed by the back of the siding, which could lead to warping.


What should I check if my chainsaw fails to start?

Most two cycle engines are sensitive to the newer gasoline blends that can contain up to 10% ethanol. Get a small bottle of fuel additive for small engines and add a small amount of that into your gas tank. It should run a lot better after that. I had a similar problem with my leaf blower last year and this did the trick.

Star Tron is a much better brand than Stabil by the way.

If you are still having trouble and you have already checked the spark plugs, sometimes the magneto can have a buildup of rust on the surface that prevents it from generating enough current to sustain repeated firing of the spark plug as the engine turns.  Take apart the pull start mechanism on the chainsaw until the magneto is exposed, and take a fine grit sandpaper to it to rub off all the rust that has formed on it by sitting all these years.  To clarify the magneto is the part that is magnetic, it should grab your screwdriver.


How to compute breaker size for electric Stove + Oven?

I'm not sure about the Viking cooktop. The installation instructions repeat the specs but don't specify a breaker size. It sounds like a 50A should do it, though 48A continuous would actually need a 60A breaker. You may want to check with Viking on that.

The Kitchenaid oven is very clear in the specs:

  Models rated from 7.3 to 9.6 kW at 240 volts (5.5 to 7.2 kW at 208 volts) require a separate 40-amp circuit. Models rated at 7.2 kW and below at 240 volts (5.4 kW and below at 208 volts) require a separate 30-amp circuit.

so a 40A circuit is called for.

You definitely do not want to run those together on one circuit - turn on 3 burners and the oven at the same time and you will overload the circuit.

Both of those on a 100A subpanel is fine, with the key question being: What else is on the subpanel? If it is a few lights, no big deal. But if you have your kitchen countertop circuits (2 @ 20A and easily could pull 15A each at the same time), fan, refrigerator, etc. you might be overloading that at 100A.


Is it normal for a freestanding pergola to wobble a little bit?

I think you've got several issues:

I don't think that the single screw holding each end of the bracing in place is sufficient.

You might consider adding a 2nd screw at each end of each diagonal brace.
I would put the 2nd screw at a different angle than the original (i.e. if the original lower screw is horizontal, add a 2nd screw at a 45° angle up).
This may help provide some additional stiffness. You may want to try one pair to see if that helps before doing all of them. (Or wait for someone to give a more authoritative answer instead of a guess/suggestion.)

Those hurricane clips look nice, but they provide minimal stiffness along the rafter direction.

A rafter tie like this would probably work better.
Image courtesy of Lowes.com. No endorsement implied or expressed
Yes, this one is ugly, but they make nice ones for visible work.
Adding a 2nd hurricane clip between the rafter and other joist may help improve the stiffness.

Unfortunately, I think the biggest issue is actually the most difficult to solve. I don't think that surface mounting the posts with those connectors is sufficient.

I took a look at the web-site for the brand you mentioned and they seem reasonably beefy, but they seem to be targeted more at railing posts than pergolas.
I mounted 2 short posts to my concrete steps with similar (though admittedly not as beefy) surface mounts and the posts wobbled horribly. I ended up removing them and half-lapping the post off the edge of the step and bolting it horizontally. Now it's rock solid.
I'd think you would have been better served by burying 1/3 of the post in concrete rather than trying to mount them on top. Unfortunately, this is a major rebuild at this point - hopefully someone will have a simpler solution.

Finally, it does appear from the video that there is a fair bit of wobble. How hard do you have to work to produce that wobble? Is it obviously evident from just casually leaning against a post, or do you have to put both hands on it and give it the ol' college try?

If you have to work hard to get that wiggle going, it may be sufficient to just leave it as is. If it wobbles like that from a stiff breeze blowing, then you'll probably want to do some strengthening.


News Exterior Transfer Switch Location and Clearance

I think your location may have more than 1 issue.
Normally the maximum height is 6-1/2’. The door on the transfer switch must be able to be opened to 90 Degrees.
The space in front of the opening usually requires 36”. These requirements are in the NEC 110.26(a)(1), 110.26.2 & 110.26.3.


If you look at the top right hand part of the label in your picture it shows that there are three different heat strips that go into this unit. The largest requires a 30A breaker for protection, but to be able to answer your question you need to contact the seller and see if they have the information on which heat strip is actually installed, or you can contact GE Appliances and see if the serial or model number can tell you what size the heat strip is.


Why is water from the dispenser slow after replacing the water filter on my refrigerator?

I had the same issue and it turned out to be air in the system.  When you install a new filter, it's full of air.  I took out the filter, dumped out the water out of the filter, refilled the filter in the sink, and reinstalled the filter.  It took a few tries to get all of the air out of the system.


Voltage between neutral and ground in receptacle

The 56V is just a nonsense figure you are getting because you have a high impedance voltmeter, and it doesn't know what to do with what it's seeing.  This is the sign of a wire that is entirely disconnected from anything.

It's not attached at the panel side (because of a defect), and it's not attached to hot via any loads, because you have removed them.

If you plug in a load and turn it on, then the neutral should start behaving more predictably.  This will also correct for the error produced by your meter.


Drilling a hole as near as possible to a corner

A flexible drill bit should do the trick.


How do I attach a new Rain Sensor to my ancient Hydrotek sprinkler timer?

I pulled apart the blue-to-white from the transformer to the water on/off switch, and put sensor's black to transformer's blue, and sensor's red to switch's white.

Then I flipped the power on and turned the system on.  It ran fine.  I pressed the manual test sensor switch while it was running, and the system stopped.  Installation complete.


Is there anything wrong with leaving toilet tank below waterline?

As a volume reducer, people have put two or three bricks in the tank to conserve on the quantity of water used per flush.

Being down by 1 inch of head on the water level isn't much to worry about.

As long as it flushes the contents either way, you're fine.


How can I electrically test an RJ45 plug?

Generally if it was just an RJ45 for data it should not spark. However there is a standard to allow power over ethernet to power certain devices on it. Thats about the only reason i could imagine it sparking. You can buy cheaply meters that test rj45 cables or if you have a multimeter you can test point to point or round trip by joining cores together


What is the name of ducting I am looking for if they even make it?

Don't know about ducts specifically, but that shaped joint is usually called a cross in other problem domains.

http://xmzxl.en.alibaba.com/product/299354123-210434489/Cross_joint.html


How can I repair this punctured pipe in my garden?

Thanks to Tyson's comments above and some reading online I figured out how to repair the pipe and even better...no leaks!

Turns out the pipe is a 20 mm MDPE pipe so it could be repaired by putting a joint in the pipe. This was done by cutting the pipe and trimming off the pierced section, then putting pipe inserts into either end of the pipe. It could then be joined using a straight pipe coupling.

The pipe inserts are required to stop the pipe getting squeezed/crushed when pushing into and tightening the coupling.

Photos of the inserts and finished fix:


Hanging ceiling hooks from concrete beams above drywall ceiling

You should not mount anything to the beam (A) by drilling in to it. Under load the bottom is under tension and the width of the hole reduces how much the beam can manage. Think of it as cutting a strand in a rope.
Theoretically you could saddle the beam with a strap, rope, chain, and cut out a section of sheet rock to allow for play, or have a brace made to provide a stiff point at ceiling level. This however is done at the expense of compromising the fire resistance of the beam and ceiling since you would be removing some fire barrier and adding a heat conducting medium saddled around a major structural component. A likely violation of your rental, lease, or association agreement in addition to your local building codes.
Consider having an assembly made that can be assembled below the ceiling. Something like either an A frame or a heavy gauged post mounted to a plate assembly. (Like much of the equipment at a gym)


Is it a problem if my dryer vent slopes uphill through a crawl space?

The International Residential Code (IRC 2009) has no restrictions or requirements for clothes-dryer exhaust ducts to have any pitch, either up or down, although they are also required to conform to the "dryer manufacturer's installation instructions".


It's not necessary if you are dealing with the common 24v thermostats.  Those run on low voltage AC which does not present the same hazard (and thus reason for grounding) as line voltage.  Generally when there's an air handler, you're dealing with 24v controls.


Why would I have hot water at one faucet but not the others?

When this happened at my house it was the antiscalding valve at the water heater.  These mix cold and hot water together to reduce the temperature of the hot water to safe levels.  Some places install them at each faucet, others install them at the water heater itself.

Turning on one faucet would just give cold water no longer how long it ran.  But opening others, or sometimes turning the tap on and off rapidly a few times would bring the hot water.

The anti scalding valve was getting stuck, and the pressure changes of opening more faucets, or maybe water hammer effect from opening and closing would make it work for awhile.

If you installed a new one at your new water heater it might be defective.  If you kept an existing one it may be worn out or have minerals trapped in it - sometimes things like that never cause a problem until you turn the water off and it moves around.

Also check under the sink to see if it has an anti scalding valve.  It might need replacing too.


Why does this switch throw the breaker when turned on?

If your hypothesis is correct, which it most likely is, that the switch controls one of the outlets, then the extra pair of wires in that outlet have to do with the switch. Either they provide a separate loop to control just one half of the outlet (some switched outlets are like that: a switch just controls one of the receptacles out of the pair). Or else the extra wires are meant to be in series with the outlet, going out to the switch.

It sounds as if you miswired it so that the switch hookup is in parallel with a receptacle's hot and neutral (thinking that it's a daisy chain connection to the next outlet).

When you do that, guess what happens. Everything works when the switch is open, and when you close it, it short circuits.

A half-switched outlet, if that's what your friend has, normally requires three connections (not including ground). Two wires will come from the breaker, and two from the switch giving you four. This means two of them get connected together. How this happens is that the switch receives hot, and so it screwed to the same terminal as hot, or otherwise spliced to hot. The return wire from the switch feeds the secondary hot that controls the switched part of the receptacle.

The best way to proceed here is to turn the power off at the breaker and verify continuities: in particular, which pair of wires corresponds to the switch. With the power on, you should also check that you haven't wired any outlet with the opposite polarity: neutral being hot and vice versa.


Help wiring new overhead light that uses SPT wire

I think I would say just the opposite. My thinking is that the wire with the writing on it is identified thus the neutral. You can check it out with a continuity tester or an ohmmeter by checking which wire gets a ring from the metal exterior of the fixture, since most fixtures are bonded between the neutral and the grounding wire.

If this is just a replacement cord you can select any conductor and mark it on both ends with white tape and identify it yourself.

Hope this helps


I'd consider mounting drawer slides right on the floor. You could then install simple flat shelves with pulls on the front, or actual drawers with low or high sides (the latter would fit the ceiling shape).


Unfortunately, silicone doesn't stick to silicone. So unless you can somehow bridge the entire bead of original caulk, you're stuck with the hard work of taking it all out again.


Everything downstream of the GFCI has to be connected to both the Hot and Neutral from the Load side of the GFCI. The way you've wired it,  when the heater kicks on, current is flowing from the Load side of the GFCI through the heater and back to the panel without returning through the GFCI's neutral connection, so the GFCI sees an imbalance and trips.

I don't think there's any way to use a 120V outlet GFCI to protect a 240V load, to do that, you'd need an appropriately sized  double pole GFCI breaker in the panel.

As far as I know, fixed loads like heaters need to be on a dedicated circuit, and it is not permitted to split 240V legs from a single circuit to feed both a fixed 240V appliance and 120V outlets (you can use 2 legs and a neutral in a multiwire branch circuit to feed 120V outlets, but I don't think that same circuit can be used to feed a fixed 240V appliance).

For code compliance (and safety), you should remove the outlets from your circuit and only drive the 240VAC heater from it.


Wiring up a switch for recessed lights using only 1 ROMEX pair

Not any more. You are describing a two-wire switch loop that used to be allowed, but now is not.

First your diagram shows black and red wires. One of them should be white (neutral), the other black or red (hot).

Current code requires that switch boxes have a neutral wire, not just a hot and a switched hot. This is required, even if your switch doesn't currently need a neutral. The next device you put in that box might.

Standard practice now is to use 3-wire (black/red/white + ground) cable to the switch. Black and red are the active lines, and the white is capped off if not needed.


Floor to Ceiling wall mirror - Wallpaper?

I would use the "fake stained glass" window products that are commonly available if doing anything to this. "Privacy film", etc...
You clean the glass and they are applied with a mist of water and a squeegee to remove bubbles. They stay put (I've had them in a bathroom for several years on windows, as better than having curtains/blinds) and when you decide to remove them they can be peeled right off - since it's some sort of static cling rather than an actual adhesive, there's no fuss and no mess to clean up.


What is this object on my exterior wall?

My first guess would be, since it is over a door, that it is an outdoor lighting fixture. It would have a cable like Romex or somthing about the size of an extension cord.

Second guess would be an external feed to the utility company.  Those look like little pucks and are usually about 2 inches in diameter.  It will have a small cable (the size of an Ethernet or phone cable) and they use them to read an internal meter without having to enter the house.  I couldn't easily find a photo.


Removing glued down particle board from subfloor

You will need to get a Razor floor scraper.

It takes a little practice to get the angle  that you hold it at in relation to the floor.

Do not be to aggressive until you get a feel for how well it is removing the glue. Do not go straight at it, angle the blade to patch and gently poke or prod at it, this will result in you getting a little further under it with each poke. Maintain the, just right, angle and keep working at it.

The glue is strong and you are going to gouge some of plywood but try to minimize this, you can patch later. You may have to come at it from another direction.

It is not fun, it is hard work. Some floor scrapers work better than others, buy extra blades.


How can I get this asbestos sheet removed?

I have looked and never been able to find any data that indicates there is any measurable risk from a single, limited, isolated exposure to asbestos like this job would entail.

Here is what I would do.  I'd put on a dust mask, cut it off with a reciprocating saw, maybe with a shop vac on it to pick up the worst of the sawdust.

I'd put the cutoff in a garbage bag, empty the shop vacuum into the garbage bag, and tie the garbage bag shut while wearing the mask.  I might hose down the area.

Obviously you would want to control the area to some extent so there's no kids, neighbors, etc. watching and being exposed to the dust.

The hazard with asbestos comes when it's in the air and you breath it and you're exposed to it repeatedly over time.  The serious hazard is years of exposure, for example pipefitters and insulators that handled asbestos for years without protection had higher incidences of lung cancer, especially in smokers.

It's not a direct analogy but it's like smoking:  it's dangerous but you are very very unlikely to get lung cancer from a smoking a single cigarette.  (Fortunately asbestos is not addictive so you don't have to worry that this one job will lead to two packs of asbestos a day for the next 20 years.)


Identifying wires in strange configuration

You've already identified switched-hot.  The old lamp would have needed it, of course.

The old lamp would have also needed neutral, and you've identified one of those.

Lamps generally do not want/need always-hot, but if there are 2 or more cables in a lamp box, fair chance always-hot is in there.  Since the lamp doesn't tap it, it's most likely that undisturbed 2-wire bundle in the back.  Typically you have two always-hot's in a lamp box when always-hot is also being carried onward to other points of service - outlets and the like.

Generally always-hots and always-neutrals show up in pairs.  E.G. AH+N from supply and AH+N onward.  You have two always-hots, so you might expect two neutrals. (All neutrals are always).   You don't have 2 neutrals identified (yet).

So what's left?  A wire that reads "hot".  And this wire was disconnected as part of removing the old light, which makes it very likely a switched-hot or neutral.

When you run through the possibilities -- a multi-wire branch circuit's second "hot" is out; that wouldn't be connected to the lamp.

Switched-hot onward to another lamp would leave this box awfully starved for neutrals - you need a neutral supply, a neutral for onward power, and supposedly a neutral for this other lamp!   And you don't have another lamp.

Now, when an onward circuit is partially disconnected -- obviously if you disconnect the hot, the hot reads 0V.  But if you disconnect the neutral, current moves through the loads and tries to return through the neutral, and it can't.  So it lifts the neutral up to line voltage.  Or phantom voltage lifts it somewhat.

That is exactly what we are seeing.  And it covers the neutral we'd expect as the two neutrals for the two always-hots.     So, join the mystery wire to the known neutral and the lamp; you should be all set.


How to repair small area of damaged/loose plywood sheathe on roof?

Check with your local/state laws about moving birds/wildlife first.  I know in my area its illegal to move bats during certain times of year.  Now birds aren't bats but bats also make noises that could sound like a bird to an untrained ear.  Even if its birds, a lot of birds are protected here in the US so similar laws may apply. For bats they make 1 way doors that you attach to allow them exit but not come back in.  Put it there for a while to let all the critters out and then remove it in favor of a permanent fix.

Next, if you are looking for a quick fix that should last until the next time you replace the roof, you could always use some spray foam.  They make it in all sorts of colors or you can paint it to be the least obvious.

However, you really need to find the source of the leak that caused the plywood to rot and the curling in the first place, or else you will likely end up with just a bigger mess to deal with.


How do I remove (food) oil stain from a wood table?

I think there's something in between getting the stain out and "refinishing" the table, and that's applying a food-safe oil finish to the entire table.  You could wipe on (and back off) some linseed oil, tung oil, or even more salad dressing for that matter.  This would be a lot less effort than any kind of refinishing and should do a lot to make the stains look less obvious.

Note that I'm assuming that, since the wood table has no current finish it's not a museum piece or anything and is meant to look a little rustic.


Can I use these post brackets to attach railing posts on top of decking?

Railing post should have been a prerequisite thought in the process of building any deck. As far as attaching to Aztec or trex product decking it is not sufficiently structural to withstand lateral forces needed for adequate attachment.  Which is why you can't find any attachment method, as it isn't recommended.
   Sounds like you made your own decision on your approach to the problem.  Unfortunately if someone gets hurt because the railing "let go" who would be at fault?
   My suggestion is to reinstall new posts either through the decking and attached directly to the underlying joist or surface mounted outside the decking perimeter with carriage bolts(zinc coated).  The Aztec decking "will" shrink with time and loosen any type of nails attached, so think about that.


Electric (120),only getting 70 volts,after breaker box

This sounds like an open neutral and is a dangerous situation. Call the power company and report the trouble. They will check their facilities and your meter can for problems. If the problem is in your breaker panel, they might be able to fix it or they will tell you to call an electrician. Good luck.


Correlation is not causation.

No, the insulation did not make your roof leak around the chimney nor at the vent. Being 100 years old (and odds are great someone did something sketchy during one of those years, though even the best construction/repair jobs don't last forever) did that. Rather than chase chimeras, fix the leaks.


How should I decide between an HRV and ERV for a northern climate home?

I'm in the same situation. I think it depends on size of your home and number of people. If you've many people and do lots of cooking, shower, laundry etc and have smaller home then HRV is better because it will get rid of excess moisture. If you you've a large home, few people and air is very dry in winters then ERV is better. Also read ERV is better for old drafty homes (1960s old).
We opted for HRV because it is cheaper, we've a small house and we already have vented hood and exhaust in bathrooms.


Under sink has cylindrical fixture instead of J-pipe, what is it and how to clear it out?

That is a drum trap. [Evidently also called a bottle trap in some parts of the world, per comments] They are rather old school, and out of favor in code now.
I'm more used to finding them embedded in a floor with the clean-out on top (for a tub application) but yours does seem to have the cleanout down.
Fair warning - they seem to be above average at "wicked gross" - since it's slow, not stopped, I'd run some bleach solution through (1 cup to a gallon) wait a while (if not urgent, overnight - if urgent, 15 minutes or so) then run a couple of gallons of clear water to rinse out the bleach, then put a big catch basin under it and put on gloves before opening it up.


Washbasin Tap not working properly and no water pressure. Refer images

Looks like a clogged aerator. Unscrew it and flush it out with water. Use a pliers and wrap the aerator in a cloth as to not scratch the finish.


What does "1/4 turn waterless ceramic disc valve" mean -- will the handle only turn 1/4 way?

Yes, 1/4 turn valves are inline=on, perpendicular=off, no multiple turns needed.


Can I split off a pipe to create an additional faucet in my basement?

Turn off the main supply and connect the supply line(s) to the faucet. You will need a brass tee, crimps, and the connector for the pipe to the faucet, and some pipe.

If you want to use a silcock instead of a sink, you still need to attach it to something. I would start there (build something to hold the silcock), and attach the pipe to it once I figured out exactly where I wanted it.


How do I handle baffles at the corners on a hip roof?

First off let me say that I am not a professional insulation installer. But I can tell you that the idea with baffling is that it is supposed to allow a space for air to flow from the soffit along under the roof sheathing to the open air space above the insulation fill level. From looking at the baffle that that you have installed so far (along area in the red box below) it looks like the baffle goes all the way up to the hip rafter.

I believe that you will need to work out an air channel along the hip rafter in these short stub rafter openings that allows for air flow. Since this may well span across several of the stub rafter openings before it gets above the insulation fill level that channel will have to be able to be lower than the bottom of the stub rafter upper chord so as to allow air flow from the lower level opening to the next higher opening. Such air channel would have to be done along both sides of the hip rafter. Once this channel is provided for it can be extended down to the openings I have shown in the yellow ovals.

You may be able to then reach into these corner openings and put some baffle material but it would need to low enough down that the upper portions of the openings in the yellow ovals are open. Alternatively it may just be easier to hand pack the insulation in those corner spaces and just not allow it to fill over top of these openings.


This installation needs a junction box. Electrical ordinances require that all power connections be made inside an accessible protective box.

In the USA your governing code will be your state's adoption or enhancement of some edition of the NEC. Other places in the civilized world will have similar ordinances. This is why I asked where you are.

If you are handy with detail carpentry, you may be able to do this job yourself, but if you are not confident and comfortable, you should hire a handyman or even an electrician. Ask for someone who can do "old work" "wiring repair".


The grout should be a creamy peanut butter, so you may need to mix in like 2 tablespoons of water to a full or new gallon bucket. These can sit around for years before you get it & can dry out somewhat. You want your squeegee trowel to be mostly flat against the wall to smear the grout on, instead of possibly trying to just stuff the joints.


Edit:

You have a problem.  You already have a conduit ... well, something -- coming through the back of the box.

That's not Romex.  Or if it is Romex, that's just coming through an empty hole.

You should not have Romex coming into this box, for reasons which should be obvious if you look at the inside of this box.

You couldn't do it anyway, since this type of box is threaded on the outside which forces you to install the cable clamps backwards, and then they're inaccessible.

The usual approach is to have another box directly behind it on the interior wall, and link the boxes back-to-back with a short piece of conduit, or nipple (ultra-short piece with threads or fittings built-in). Then you run THWN-2 through the short section and do your Romex splicing on the interior.

Since this type of box has threads on the outside, you can thread a short section of pipe (nipple) onto it, then attach it to the interior box any which way you can (e.g. conduit nuts). In that case, don't count on the conduit being usable as ground, wire a ground between those two boxes' ground screws. (every box has a #10-32 tapped hole for a ground screw).

Original:

The correct type of wire to use in conduit is THWN-2.

Three THWN-2 wires laid next to each other. Note lettering on the wire.

Note that there is no cable jacket like you find with Romex, because wire is not cable. These wires do not need the cable jacket, because the conduit protects them.  As such, you can insert exactly the wires you need, and exactly the colors you want, because you are not stuck with the standard colors in conduit.  Ground must be green and neutral must be gray or white, but hot can be any other color.   I frequently use orange, blue, purple, brown and yellow to distinguish one circuit from another. (you can have up to 4 circuits per conduit, and they can all share 1 ground).

You can use solid or stranded THWN-2.  All of them are much easier to pull through conduit than cable is, particularly stranded, however stranded is more challenging to attach at receptacles and switches.

Using cables in conduit is illegal, only in the sense that it requires much larger conduit than you'd think.  Oval shaped cable (like Romex or UF) requires the same conduit space that a round wire of the same max dimension would require! One cable isn't so bad, but 2+ cables requires positively huge conduit. (whereas in THWN-2, a 1/2" conduit can handle 4 circuits!) Also due to the difficulty of the pull, you have a serious risk of damaging the cable, especially if you are inexperienced at this type of work.  So if you respect the fill rules, and are careful and patient, you can do it... but why bother?


How should I adjust warped balcony door frame?

It's hard to see from the photos, but sliding doors are typically leveled (or fit to their stationary counterparts) by turning screw or cam adjusters controlling the height of the two wheels on which they roll.

Look for plastic plugs covering screw access holes near the bottom of the door, and use an appropriately-sized screwdriver to adjust them. It may be helpful to have someone lift pressure off the door while you do so.


Breaker feeding an electric heater trips after one minute

As noted by isherwood, you are pulling too much power. 7,500 W /240 V = 31.25 A on a 30 A circuit. Circuit breakers are typically designed to handle a somewhat higher than rated current for a short time - e.g., motor startup, a really high current (e.g., hundreds of Amps on a 30 A circuit) for an extremely short time, and a moderate overage for a moderate amount of time. This actually matches well with another rule: continuous loads should not exceed 80% of the rated circuit. In the case of 30 A, that means your continuous load should be no more than 24 A = 7,200 W.

So this is actually normal operation.

You need either a slightly smaller heater or a larger breaker with matching appropriately sized wiring.


Is it safe to cut and put a compression end on a live cable TV wire?

Cable installers work with "live" wires all the time. There's no voltage on their lines that I'm aware of, only signal and maybe some interference. You do need to disconnect lines for satellite dishes or mast mounted amplifiers since they may have a power injector that adds voltage into the lines.

When crimping the new cable, make sure the center wire is long enough (you can trim it after you crimp a new end) and get some of metal mesh that forms the second wire in tight contact with the crimped fastener. I usually pull some of that mesh back over the insulation so there's a tight bond when it's crimped.


Replacing shower head - thread sticking out of wall is too long

It is really hard to tell from the picture. Is the pipe from the wall threaded all the way down to below the tile surface?

If the answer is no then I would be concerned that if you were to saw off 10mm of the threaded pipe coming out of the wall that you may have one or two problems.

You could be left with so few threads that it will be hard to seal the threaded joint without a leak.
The new shower head attachment could bottom out on the threaded portion of the pipe and still not be tight to the tile surface.

+ + Edit + +

Based on the comment left by the OP I would fully agree that the extending pipe can be cut to a shorter length. As a matter of fact, when looking closely at the provided picture it is easy to see that this pipe has already been cut from a previous install.

When cutting off a threaded item like this there should be some post cutting dressing of the first thread using a file. The tapering down of the leading edge of the first thread and a general beveling all the way around the outside corner will greatly ease installation of the mating shower head assembly. It the sawing leaves any sharp edge or burrs on the inside corner of the pipe those should also be removed.

When cutting off this pipe to the requisite 8 to 10mm protrusion it will be best done using a hand tool such as a good quality hack saw with a new fine toothed blade. I would recommend taping some cereal box type cardboard to the tiles before starting the work in order to prevent the hack saw from rubbing on the tile and grout lines and leaving metal markings which can be hard to clean away. It may also be suggested to wear some of the thin hand forming gloves similar to "Gorilla Gloves" to avoid getting skinned up hands working in close to the wall.


Replace switch with timer, instructions don't match existing wiring

Get a different timer

You should be able to get a different timer switch that does not need a neutral to operate -- any Leviton LTT series model will do the job in your case, for instance.


How can a 5V power supply power 3 LEDs at 3V each?

LEDs are typically wired in parallel, just like almost every other light on the planet (you are describing a series circuit). 3V LED + suitable resistor = 5V at somewhere around 20-50mA each. Put as many in parallel as your wiring and power supply can handle.

Based on this and some other questions you appear to be missing some fundamental concepts of electrical circuitry. Go find a tutorial on basic electronics, preferably before cooking some expensive lighting fixtures. Books by Forrest Mims are particularly good and available on AMazon.


Would adding new basement windows jeopardize the integrity of the foundation?

In terms of vertical load coming down, there would be little load under the first floor windows as they always have a header above the window to spread the load to jack studs on the side of the windows. In addition, there are full height king studs next to the jack studs that extend to the top plates.

There may be cripple studs under the window to help reduce any small sagging of the window frame. Your steel angle bar may be needed to support this and the floor joists above your basement windows, depending on how much vertical dimension you want to allocate to this.

If I were doing this, I would determine the length of the floor joists and calculate the square footage supported by the joists above a window. Then use the code required load (typically 40 pounds per square foot for residences) to determine what your basement window header must support.

This link shows how to calculate load: loads-on-headers

And this link shows the beam size required for a certain load: load table


How do I source/eliminate the sour, spicey, musty odour in our living room?

Try covering the carpet with a sheet of plastic, and see if the smell gets better above and worse below it. Make sure it's a continuous sheet, not a woven plastic tarp. Use one of a reasonable thickness, as polyethylene (the material almost always used for these) passes vapors surprisingly easily.

Put down the plastic in the evening. The next morning, go in and exercise your sniffer; is the smell in the room better? Then lift a corner of the sheet and sniff the carpet: is it worse?

If so, then you might even be able to localize the smell further by sniffing at various points in the carpet as you roll up the plastic.


Black mould in silicon around tiles - spraying vinegar or tea tree oil enough or need to scrub?

I think you should remove all the silicone then use a bit of bleach to clean the area well to kill any remaining mold. Let it dry thoroughly and then put a new bead of silicone there.

You mention this is a rental property. You may want to talk with the landlord about this. If there is mold, then water is getting behind the silicone and potentially causing further damage. The owner should take it upon themselves to fix this.


If the PRV is adjustable (most are) crank it up! Normally turning the adjustment screw clockwise will increase the pressure. If you have a pressure gauge crank it to 60 most well systems I set up are 40/60  but city water I usually set 60 as a minimum. The increased pressure will increase the flow the pressure depends on the height of the tank but if you have 80 psi outside you should be able to get the same or a reasonable 60 psi in the home by increasing the Spring tension on the PRV (PRV is a fancy name for a pressure regulator they need to be made for potable (drinking) water systems but that’s all they are) increase the spring pressure and your pressure increases.


Why won't my furnace complete the startup sequence when powered by a portable generator?

Many flame presence detectors use the relationship between Earth and one side of the Mains to sense a small current passing through the flame. If the voltage is not as expected, the flame presence / failure detection may not work.

So again, establishing the proper relationship between Mains and Earth is critical for proper operation.


Should I drill out pinhole leaks in cast iron drain stack before repairing with epoxy?

You know that you're dealing with a structurally-unsound pipe that could fail at any time, discharging the most entertaining sludge in the process. I'd be oh-so-very-careful not to disrupt its integrity. Drilling into it would count; I'd say even scraping and wire brushing could hasten its demise.

Assuming this pipe is under no pressure, then just about anything that adhered to the pipe would block the leaks. I would suggest using patches of good quality duct tape on the holes (if you can find them), followed by a wrap of electrical tape (stretched well) to hold it all in place.


Truthfully it looks like the original tile was not done with decades of service in mind.

You have two options

You could simply remove the existing caulking and pull out any loose grout from the inside of the shower. I wouldn't worry about the caulking and grout on the outside of the shower. The water shouldn't be getting past the first layer of protection anyway. Clean it up well, dig at it, use a brush and a vacuum. Let any damp spots dry. Then re-caulk will some tub and tile caulking. Make sure you get a mildew resistant caulking.
This is the long term fix. It's expensive but if you are going to do it right, do it fully right. Remove everything. Replace it with a waterproofing system like Schluter or Wedi. Some of the tiles on the outside of the shower door are showing signs of water weeping behind them. You can stop it by following the method outlined above. But when you are ready use Wedi or Schluter. Either of those systems would have to be done by professionals or friends who are fairly handy.

Wedi shower kit

masterwholesale.com

Schluter shower kit

www.homedepot.com


Why does my electric shower still have water coming out even though it's switched off?

I would think most likely the valve in the shower that controls the water flow has failed. It may be possible to replace the valve or you may end up having to replace the whole shower unit.

Follow-up questions:

What is the make and model of the electric shower unit?

What country are you in?


How far is it recommended for pipework to be from electrical sockets and switches?

There are no residential codes around pipework and electric distance other than they cannot support each other (touch).  Electric live wires are enclosed.  Pipework is enclosed.  They can be basically as close as you want them to be without them touching.


At the camera end at a bow and an outlet cover with an ethernet socket (e.g.
That will look neat and be great if you need to change the camera's at some point in the future.
Jonathan


Attaching a concrete coffee table top to reclaimed oak sleeper legs with a high moisture content

Why not bolt on some brackets? At 1 1/2" thick dfrc you can drill the piece and screw some brackets on with concrete screws.
Your probably better off putting the wood in the house for a week or two to lose some of the moisture before assembly.


It’s something put in by the underwriters to limit insurance liability for manufacturing defects the shut off needs to be readily accessible to turn off before it can do too much damage

Just tell them you don’t intend to hook it up to water your just using the fridge and freezer then how you hook it up is on you


I'm not sure of particular products or solutions, but I will say that hardwiring any of it is quickly becoming obsolete. Technology will advance which will downsize the products and make everything more convenient. Right now there are already the Belkin switches that fit in a regular switch box, connect over wifi and with existing electrical wires, and can be controlled through a phone instead of a desktop computer or  set interface.

As mentioned before, anything can be done if you throw enough money at it. But honestly, it's actually cheaper now-a-days to get the convenient stuff.

And back towards your example, that can all be done with programmable logic and some relays to create a whole home system that can be rewired at will without the need for any internet connection. Again though, this isn't exactly cheap.


Dryer Outlet - Two 120V's testing fine. No 240V

Answer pending verification of photo...

It looks like someone may have been using that dryer outlet for a large 120v appliance, probably with some homemade adapter.  In your picture it seems like both the red and black wires are attached to the upper screw on that double pole breaker.  This would put them both at 120v to ground, but zero volts between each other.

Having parallel paths in a circuit like that is not allowed, but it doesn't matter much now because you're going to fix it.  Once the two wires are attached to the right screws you should be fine.  Just to double check that there is not an issue with your panel, measure the voltage between the two screws on the breaker.  That should be 240v, of course.  If it's not, there could be a compatibility issue with that breaker in that panel, but like you say, the stove works, so I don't think it there would be an issue here.  Turn the breaker on and off to reset it if the voltage is not present.


Blow into the gas pilot to unclog it.

Its definitely not a spider that crawled into it but possibly grease build up. You may want to consider fitting a gas oil filter for your system.


Trying to find a replacement door handle/knob

Looks close enough to me (buy two, do both sides). Also, consider swapping a new one with the inner knob from one of the closets or any other less conspicuous door. If you don't like this one, search Google (not suppliers) with these key words:

Beaded Oval Door Knob: (rejuvenation.com)


Is my pool cracking due to sitting empty during freeze-thaw cycles?

I used to install pools with Zonolite / Portland cement mixture, later years Gunnite. The shells were usually only ~2" thick. That area had a high water table and if someone drained the pool the bottom shell would break and water would enter between the liner and the Zonolite/ Gunnite mixtures. If there were leaks in the liners they usually found a crack and could also cause the problem your pool has. We would drain the pool in the late summer pull back the liner and fill the depressions and cracks with hydraulic cement. If water gets between the liner and bottom be very careful filling the pool because this can rip the bottom drain out.
I would suspect the leaks caused the problem. Even if this is a thicker bottom once the earth and sand are eroded the bottom has no strength.


Is it safe/energy efficient to surround hydronic baseboard heaters with a wooden enclosure?

Metal is used because it is a LOT cheaper than a wood cover.

You can use wood covers, but you have to leave the top open to allow heat to escape (or have a grill). Also, you probably should make the opening at the top somewhat wider than with a metal cover. I would probably put a strip of metal on the inside of the baseboard to protect the wood from heat. The design is kind of like this:

If I did this I would also drill a lot of holes in the bottom of the outboard part of the heating frame or leave a good-size vent at the bottom somehow. You want to maximize the airflow. Cold air entering bottom, gets heated, exits through top grille.


Cleanest way to remove and patch holes from this unused satellite dish on side of house?

Once you remove the dish you can simply fill the holes with silicone caulk. The key is to keep moisture and insects from getting under the siding. There are various colors to choose from. You're not going to get a perfect match but those holes aren't large so probably not a big deal.
The cable can be clipped off at the soffit or pulled out completely.


Start-up current of amp triggers circuit breaker

A B16 Circuit Breaker = Leitungsschutzschalter tolerates big insurge currents, f.e. 4 times 16A = 64A for 1 second. Maybe this circuit breaker is very old or had been damaged by a massive short in the past. A swap of that CB would be inexpensive, below 5 Euro for a new B16.

The most easiest idea would be to insert one or more power line extensions between the socket and the amplifier. That would increase the power line resistance.

If the electric installation is made for it,  a C16 or even D16 would tolerate higher insurge currents, but is more expensive.

Another possibility is to add one or more insurge current NTCs in the amplifier's power wiring to decrease the high current, if it is an old amplifier without any. A newer amplifier's NTC(s) could be damaged.

They are normally black coin-shaped elements, see the photo taken from
https://www.ametherm.com/ptc-thermistors-vs-ntc-thermistors-for-inrush-current

It is also possible that the amplifier has a special power switch with a resistor switched in series. When the switching operation starts this resistor will be bridged after a few miliseconds.  But in that case there should be a hint in the manual that this unit should only be switched by the built-in power switch and not by a switch of an extension or a wall switch.


Will a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit fail if I draw over 15A combined from each outlet?

No.

For a receptacle to be rated for 15A, it must be able to handle 15A at either outlet.  For example. If you plug one item that draws 15A into a receptacle, the receptacle must be able to handle that current.

Receptacles are actually designed to handle 150% over their rated current (or something like that, I'd have to find the specification to be sure). A 15A receptacle should be able to handle 22.5A, so your breaker should trip before the receptacle fails.

Consider this image...

Assuming the tab between the hot terminals is removed, and the red and black wires are each connected to separate 15A breakers. This is a valid configuration, and would allow 15A to be drawn at each outlet.

However, It's usually not a good idea to tempt fate, or stress test electrical components.  So in theory, it will not fail. In practice, it should not fail.


Do i need a new collar on a toilet if i have a vinyl floor? never had one before

The ring can be 1/4" below the floor, although level with the floor is best. Modern wax rings (and some other newfangled sealing rings) are able to accomodate this.

There may be some other reason the plumber is recommending repair or replacement of the closet ring. Armed with this knowledge, ask him/her to explain in detail why this is necessary. If you are unsatisfied with the response, thank the plumber and say you will call them back after you think about it. Then call some other reputable, licensed, insured plumber and get a second opinion.


Where should I connect the green ground wire in main panel next to meter?

Fit a ground bar to the main panel, land it there

While, since you're working in a main panel here, you could commingle neutrals and grounds by landing your new ground wire on one of the neutral bars, it's cleaner to avoid that altogether and install a separate ground bar into the main panel instead for the ground wires.  Since you have a Square-D main panel, the correct part for your situation is a PK12GTA or PK15GTA -- you should be able to find it at a local electrical supply house or order it online for about $10.  Simply mount it to the main panel's cabinet in the holes provided, with the meter pulled for the duration (there should be a set top left or top right -- if not, the install instructions give guidance on drilling a set of mounting holes), then attach the ground wire to the newly fitted ground bar.  Once that's done, have the electric company turn the power back on, and enjoy your new subpanel!

(The previous installer committed a bit of a no-no by using a black wire for a neutral and phase-taping it instead of using a white wire, but that can be rectified down the road if it ever becomes an issue.  I would suggest phase taping it white at this point, at a minimum, to avoid needless confusion due to the previous installer's non-standard phase-taping scheme.)


How can I thaw a frozen exterior drain quickly?

You can pick up a cheap water pump that you can use to remove the water.  If you have a Harbor Freight in your area, they have a good selection of cheap pumps.  If your drain is metal, you can use a brush torch with a 15 pound propane tank to help remove the ice.  Use it to help break up the ice.  It will probably not be efficient to melt all of the ice.  Warm water may help break up the frozen water in the drain pipe.


Electrical outlets go dark and then come back on their own

This is a fairly common failure usually seen when backstabs are used. Backstabs are the push in connectors when under heavy load they can open up and sometimes later they reconnect.
This also happens with loose wires in wire nuts and even broken wires.
The loose connection heats up moves apart and the circuit is dead , after cooling down or some vibration it reconnects until a load is on the circuit.
If you want to find the source of the failure but a plug in heater or hair dryer on it and turn it on this will usually open the circuit.
Why the circuit is not complete test each receptacle or device until you find the last working one or first non working one in that circuit. The problem will be at one of those 2 places 98% of the time. If you pull the receptacle out and don’t find a problem and turn the power back on and it works if it was back stabbed that is usually the bad one and you need to replace the receptacle or move the wires to the screws.


Is it better to vertically or horizontally stack two TV antennas to get stations from opposite directions?

It depends on the polarization of the signal.

If you're unsure about the polarization of the signal, look at the antenna elements of a stationary yagi antenna to see if they're horizontal or vertical. Mobile antenna are often just a single vertical element, so it's not a foolproof way to tell. An internet search would also work.

TV is horizontally polarized.

For horizontally polarized signals, vertically on the same mast, spaced at least 1 wavelength apart would be ideal to prevent most signal attenuation.

For vertically polarized signals, use separate masts, spaced at least 1 wavelength apart would be ideal to prevent most signal attenuation.


Why is my fire extinguisher emptied after one use?

Fire extinguishers (here in the US anyway) are REQUIRED to not be usable after being discharged, partial or not, because you can never know HOW MUCH extinguishing material was discharged by just looking at the pressure gauge. So the valves are designed with breakaway seals that, once broken, will not hold the charge for very long, forcing you to replace it or have it recharged and re-certified by the manufacturer. These are devices used in saving lives, it's all very serious from their perspective.


Is there a comparative study of self-sustained and ecological housing?

There is no one best model; it's a function of where the house is located (climate, site, etc.).  Something as simple as what side of a hill the house is can have a dramatic effect (does it get morning or evening sun?).  Stone is a great thermal sink, but if you've got to get it trucked in from great distances, it's not environmentally friendly.

Now, I'm not going to say that they're the most envionmentally friendly, as they don't make full use of their environment (eg, building into the ground), but the U.S. Department of Energy runs a contest called the "Solar Decathalon", in which college teams bring a modular home, and are scored on various tests over a week or so. (but of course, only for a week ... not in the middle of winter, where they might not fare as well)

If you look through the entries, you can see some of the design decisions that they made to reduce their energy use.  C|Net covered the 2011 competition.