Fatter is better

Upsizing your conduit now costs pennies compared to having to dig it up and replace it later, so I'd put the fattest Schedule 80 PVC you can in now -- at a bare minimum, I'd go with 2", with say 3" being an even better choice if possible.  This will also make your pull job easier than if you used the smallest possible conduit -- it might even save you a call to the electrician and their truck o' tools!

Also, don't try to stuff a nasty ol' SE cable down that conduit -- you're using more fill than you need as SE cables are made with fatter ground wires than strictly necessary, and the jacket is simply going to hamper your pull, as well.  It might mean you have to hit up the supply house or order in the appropriate XHHW-2 single conductors, but you'll be thanking yourself that you did when you are doing the pull!

4AWG Al will do the job, but you probably want fatter wire than that as well, or to go to 240V

While putting 60A through 4AWG Al XHHW-2 with 75°C terminations is within the NEC's ampacity limits, it does yield a 6.5% voltage drop, which is well in excess of the 3% limit recommended for feeders.  Staying at 120V means you have to go up to a whopping 1AWG for aluminum conductors to  get the voltage drop close to 3%; 240V gives a major advantage here, allowing you to run over the 4AWG with a voltage drop less than 2%.

Speaking of aluminum -- unless your AHJ is ridiculously fearful/uninformed and requires copper for everything, which I have heard of in some towns, modern aluminum is fine for a feeder -- breaker and panel lugs in loadcenters are all aluminum-rated these days, and the AA-8k series alloys used for aluminum building wire these days aren't nearly as ill-tempered as the old EC grade stuff.  Still, it's essential that you torque the lugs to the breaker/loadcenter manufacturer's torque specification (an inch-pound torque wrench with a screwdriver bit adapter will do the job) in order to produce a long-lived connection as aluminum isn't as forgiving of overtorqued connections as copper is; never mind that the 2017 NEC requires the use of torque tools these days! (See 110.14(D) for details.)

Speaking of 240V...

240V to the shed is a better bet than 120V to the shed given the size of your feeder and your loads:

Your 20A 120V blower motors clock in at 1.5HP apiece -- motors this size should be able to be rewired for 240V, or at least available in 240V versions.
Modern LED drivers and fluorescent ballasts are available in 120-277V universal voltage options, so that takes care of your lighting
Fans are definitely available in 240V as well -- if nothing else, you can get condenser fan motors and use those

This leaves the stock tank heater and possible convenience receptacles as 120V loads; that, and any GFCI protection itself you want as two pole GFCIs require a line neutral as the electronics inside run on 120V.  Given that, I'd run a neutral + 2 hots and ground, so that both 120 and 240V loads can be accommodated, while keeping the amount of 120V load down .  More specifically, I'd go with 1800W max for the stock tank heater -- this leaves you with 15A on the other side for the convenience receptacle if you wish one, 20A for both blowers when wired for 240VAC, and another 5A@240VAC for the lights and fan, allowing us to get by on 40A total.  Of course, if you're stuck with a 120V fan, that will increase things a bit unless you can get away with a smaller stock tank heater.

However, since you're stuck with 120VAC for the blowers, the best plan is to run 240VAC anyway as that gets you two opposite legs -- stick one blower on each leg, with the fan + lights + receptacle on one leg and the stock tank heater on the other.  This again gets you down to 30/40A of 240VAC, which is a cakewalk for 1AWG aluminum and eminently possible on the 4AWG.

Livestock hate tingly electrical feelings

Livestock don't put up well with stray currents that us humans tend to shrug at -- their longer gait means that they get more step potential than us humans do, and they aren't as good about voicing their displeasure about the situation to the electrician either.

This means that your grounding system is rather critical.  If I were you and I was building this barn from scratch, I'd use a full equipotential grid in the style of a swimming pool's, laid into the barn slab and exothermically welded to the slab reinforcing steel as well.  Since that horse is likely out of the barn already though, I'd use an equipotential ring ground electrode consisting of a circumferential trench just outside the barn footings, dug to the footing depth, the water table, or bedrock, whichever comes first.  Into this trench goes appropriate reinforcing steel as well as copper wire mesh (again, you can get this stuff for pool equipotential bonding) formed into a vertical I-shape and exothermically welded to the rebar. A 6 AWG bare copper "tail" is exothermically welded to the mesh near where the feeder enters, and concrete is poured around this all.  The tail then serves as your grounding electrode conductor and attaches to the ground bar in the structure's subpanel; it doesn't need damage protection either provided it's run along the barn wall.

Needless to say, the feeder must have a separated equipment grounding conductor (I'd use the same 6AWG copper as was used for the "tail", pulled through the conduit with the rest of the wires), and the neutral/ground bond at the subpanel must get pulled, or else you'll find yourself in stray current HELL as the earth, your feeder EGC, and your feeder neutral all wind up in parallel if the subpanel is left bonded.

As to the stock tank?  I'd run more of that 6AWG copper from either a bonding plate inside the stock tank (get a "Bondsafe 680" or equivalent from the nearest swimming pool people) if it's fiberglass/nonconductive or   a solid connection (listed lug, exothermic weld) to the stock tank itself if it's metal to the outlet box for the stock tank heater, where we attach it to the ground wires there.  Again, the basic idea here is to make it so everything's as close to the same potential as possible.

GFCI protection is better provided on individual branch circuits

Most smaller subpanels (100A and below) use a backfed main breaker architecture -- the main breaker is really a repurposed branch breaker.  This is fine for ordinary breakers, but won't work with a GFCI in place of the submain -- trying to feed power into the LOAD end of a GFCI breaker is a good way to fry the GFCI's trip solenoid.  As a result, it's better to put the GFCI protection, in branch breaker form, on the individual branch circuits that need it -- any convenience receptacles will need such protection, and it'd be wise to GFCI protect the stock tank heater as well.  Putting the GFCI on the upstream end of a long feeder isn't wise either, because the leakage currents to ground on long feeders can be a bit on the significant side, contributing to nuisance tripping.

Last but not least -- the QO260 and HOM260 accept up to 2AWG wire -- so you can use a short length of 4AWG aluminum or copper as a pigtail between the breaker lugs and an AlxCu rated mechanical connector, such as the Polaris connectors you mention.  Note that the Polaris connectors that accept 1AWG require pretty heavy torque for a connector, so you'll need a torque wrench capable of 180 inch-pounds or 15 foot-pounds to tighten them. The liquidtight conduit is fine for a hardwired stock tank heater, although I'd run a dedicated ground wire inside it even if it is LFMC, and a typical NEMA 3R is fine for the loadcenter box no matter where you put it (I'd be leery of using a NEMA 1 enclosure inside a three-sided shed though, as sideways rain is a thing where I live.)


Sewer Line Clog suggests pipeline replacement

Loosen with a pick or mattock, move with a shovel, and be very careful of that gas line. Find the sewer line first from the side the gas line is not supposed to be on. 2 feet deep is easy.

If things are frozen now (I don't know where you are, since you didn't say) it will be more difficult to dig, but it can be done if needed. Otherwise wait for spring.

I'm not certain what the best approach to splicing the line in place would be. I'd guess 2 rubber couplers, because the still-buried pipe will not want to move. Mind you, at that age I'm also concerned with the distinct possibility that you might have 10 feet of cast iron and then change to Orangeburg (tar-paper) pipe, which is useless stuff by now (it ages poorly and age is upon it) and would involve digging up the whole run.

Bedding is important because otherwise that 5 feet can deform and interfere with correct flow in the pipe.


Likely there is not a learning remote for this, since they are different frequencies and protocols.

There are a couple of options, though:

Add a "Security+ 2.0" compatible receiver to the gate

Depending on the actual gate used, if you can wire in a universal receiver, then you can link the Liftmaster remote with it. Would need details on the gate control hardware to help with that (probably best to ask a separate question).

Of course, if "HOA" == "Home owner association" == you can't modify the gate, then this may not be an option. Maybe you could get the HOA to wire this in, as likely other residents would benefit because Liftmaster is a pretty popular brand (also sold as Chamberlain and many Sears brands, and probably others).

Custom-build a remote

Looks like the Linear remote is already a "keychain" remote. From there, get a normal Liftmaster visor remote, and try to fit the contents of the linear into it, or potentially get a Liftmaster keychain remote (smaller) and fit both of them into a visor-style clip.


How to change recessed lighting with GU10 light bulb

You have to pull the outer potlight trim frame straight down and out of the ceiling.  Then you will be able to access the bulb from the back side.


It is okay to have 800 amps of breakers in a 200 amp service panel.  The reason there is a main breaker (200 amp double pole) is to prevent unsafe usage.

When you run out of physical space, there are several solutions:

Replace some of the main panel breakers with half-widths (two breakers per slot) to create enough space for a new breaker.

Install a sub-panel which is fed by a double breaker in the main panel.

Remove unneeded breakers.  Maybe some circuits are no longer in use.
Replace the breaker panel with a bigger one.


Adding 60 to 80 amp subpanel with #4 Aluminum SER service entrance wire from 150 amp main panel

The answer depends on the details of what loads are already connected to your 150A panel. You didn't say if this was a residence or other. Certainly a second 3-phase service would be highly unusual in a residence.

However, assuming that the sum of the existing loads on the 150A panel don't preclude adding the additional load of the guest house, then the 4AWG aluminum conductors would admit a maximum 60A feed (Unless you can find a 70A breaker… I've never seen one). Not 80A.

As to which panel to connect… if there are existing circuits in the guest house, I would be leery of connecting the SER to a different panel than these circuits… mixing circuits from two different services in the same dwelling is increasing the chance for disastrous errors in the future.

And unless you're really experienced, knowledgable, and qualified about electric power distribution, I would advise that you not touch the 3-phase stuff. There are numerous non-obvious pitfalls in that for the untrained person.


Can I extend SER service cable to accommodate a new breaker box?

It is acceptable to splice additional wire to a feeder, as long as that feeder is not an unfused conductor (service entry). Keep in mind that improperly installed splice can become a real nightmare. It might be better to try and raise the new panel up if there are no obstructions rather than try extend the feeder.

Also if an AHJ gets involved they may want to see if the panel has the proper clearances to legally install the splice. That would be wire bending area and proper fill.

Good luck.


Is it safe to use a variable AC transformer to control the speed of a box fan?

Most portable fans use a type of motor called a "shaded pole AC induction motor".  Here is a description of them from Wikipedia:

Shaded Pole Motor

You should not, however, try to control the speed using a "variac" device because the motor will attempt to continue to try to draw the same amount of POWER (Power = Voltage * Amperage) and you will get heating and lead to premature failure or even a fire hazard.

Here is a link to a discussion of low-voltage issues with AC motors:

AC Motor Low Voltage Issues

To quote the relevant section:

  Effects of low voltage. When you subject a motor to voltages below the
  nameplate rating, some of the motor's characteristics will change
  slightly and others will change dramatically. To drive a fixed
  mechanical load connected to the shaft, a motor must draw a fixed
  amount of power from the line. The amount of power the motor draws has
  a rough correlation to the voltage 2current (amps). Thus, when voltage
  gets low, the current must increase to provide the same amount of
  power. An increase in current is a danger to the motor only if that
  current exceeds the motor's nameplate current rating. When amps go
  above the nameplate rating, heat begins to build up in the motor.
  Without a timely correction, this heat will damage the motor. The more
  heat and the longer the exposure to it, the more damage to the motor.

Fans with a built-in speed control generally have multiple windings on the motor that are switched in and out in order to control the motor speed.  These will not suffer from the overheating effect.

Your best bet here would be to get a different fan that can be controlled to your liking.


How can we security manage keys for a co-op building?

You may want to consider keyless entry systems. The cards can be programed to allow or deny access. Once a conventional key is issued it will work until the lock is changed. A keyless system can disable individual cards in the event of loss or theft. The initial cost may seem high but if you are rekeying locks and making 48 copies a couple times a year it may be cost effective in the long term. Occupants can issue cards to service or contract vendors and have them disabled if not returned. Some systems can limit entry to specific times only.


Did I do a shoddy wiring job on a ceiling fan?

To answer your concerns:

The reason the National Electric Code requires wires to be contained in an approved enclosure/box is to protect them from being damaged, but also for any arcing that might occur (the resulting spark and heat are restricted inside the box. From experience having installed more than 15 ceiling fans: wires should be no shorter than 4 inches exiting a box, wire them in this order grounds, whites and hot last; this is also how they should be placed back into a box. If the box is full with other wires unrelated to the fan I will try to at least push the wire nuts into the enclosure and tuck the leftovers out of the way.

Also, for your own peace of mind, try this: after tightening a wire nut give the wire a gentle tug. If it doesn't pull free it most likely will remain so. For even more peace of mind (and because its mama's) wrap the wire nuts with a few turns of vinyl electricians tape in the same direction that the wire nut was tightened. I would double check your work since you expressed concern (and because it's your mom). As long as you have sound wire connections and the box is rated to support the fan you will be fine.


You will need to use RMC, not EMT, for the service mast
The first order of business is that your utility's overhead service guide requires the use of RMC/GRC for service masts.  You are correct with using 2" for mast sizing, though; inside the mast, I'd run 3 4/0 Al XHHW-2 individual conductors in order to keep pulling reasonable and comply with Code limitations on what can be used in a conduit to begin with.
I like the thinking with the conduit to the interior panel, but it sadly won't quite work due to stud boring limits
Sadly, your plan with running oversized conduit from the meter-main to the panel won't work either.  However, this is not because it's electrically wrong at all, but because of mechanical issues.  IRC R602.6 point 2 limits holes in studs to 40% of the stud width, or 60% if the bored stud is sistered or fitted with an approved stud shoe to reinforce the area around the hole.  However, this limits a 2x4 nominal stud (3.5" wide) to a 2.1" diameter hole, even if a stud-shoe is provided, while 2" PVC or GRC has an outside diameter of 2.375" and 2" EMT has an outside diameter of 2.2".
So, you're better off exiting the lower rear of the meter-main directly into the basement with your 1-1-1-3 SER cable and then running the SE cable up to the subpanel via whatever route works.  That means you'll have to replace the SE cable with a 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 SER and overbore the studs and joists from 1.25" (achievable without stud shoes) to 1.75" (which requires stud shoes) if you want to upgrade the interior panel to 200A down the line, though.


Pretty common practice for most trades not to clean after themselves.  Even the trades that do clean after themselves I have a hard time imagining cleaning the underside of the slab.
My experience is the same as yours.  If you touch the underside of the slab you are likely  to come away with dust - unless you personally cleaned it.
I wouldn't worry about it.
Silica or silicon dioxide is regulated by the FDA to be no more than 2% by weight of any food sold.  It is unlikely whatever did drop into your plates was more than 2% by weight of your food.
The danger with silica is inhalation but the concern is really around industrial exposure where you are working with concrete cutting/grinding or mixing and there are visible clouds of it in the air and you are breathing these clouds on a semi-regular basis.
I find it hard to imagine that you could ever expose yourself to enough of the dust left under the counter for it to have an affect on you.  You probably get more exposure from buildings being demolished, city workers doing work on sidewalks/roadways, renovators mixing mortar or concrete or thinset in your neighborhood, etc.
FDA regulation


Will canola oil have any adverse effects on silicone?

I doubt it would be a serious issue unless you really mixed in the canola. However, if it does become a problem next time use plain water. Water in the air is actually the catalyst that drys silicone, construction workers will take a cup of water and dip their finger in it to smooth silicone on things like bathtub installations so that the silicone won't stick to their bare finger.


Furnaces are required by code to have three shutoffs:

An emergency shutoff located outside the area of the furnace
A service shutoff located on or near the furnace
A switch, breaker, or fuse located at the electric panel

The emergency cutoff only interrupts the burner supply circuit, while the service shutoff will turn off all electric power to the furnace, which is why they enter at different locations. My best guess is that during the previous owner's demo, they moved the emergency shutoff closer to the furnace for "convenience" and removed the "unsightly" red "OIL BURNER EMERGENCY SWITCH" plate.
As Steve Wellins mentioned in comments, this was mostly likely not done by any trained and professional electrician, and is most likely not up to code.
Source: https://inspectapedia.com/heat/HVAC_Power_Switches.php


Conduit's not what you want here

Flexible conduit (of any type) can't be run between buildings like this as it violates the support rules (you need supports every 3', and you can't have that here).

Instead, what you want to do is run a galvanized, aluminum-clad, or copper-clad steel messenger wire between the two structures, and then use field lashings or cable saddle rings to attach an outdoor rated (sunlight resistant) CL2 or CL3 speaker cable to it.  This falls under Article 396 of the NEC, and in particular the line in table 396.10(A) that states "Other factory-assembled, multiconductor control, signal, or power cables that are identified for the use" are allowed for messenger-supported wiring installations.

It is important to provide enough slack in the messenger and cable to let the messenger adopt a natural catenary curve (instead of having it taut between structures or excessively slack/drooping, check a sag and tension chart for details) in order to take up structural motion and wind deflections, as you indicate, and also to attach the cable to the messenger in a way that will withstand the test of time (usually, a thinner lashing wire is wound around the combination of cable and messenger, or the cable is threaded through cable saddles that have been attached to the messenger wire).  You'll also need to ground the messenger wire itself at at least one end (probably using a split bolt on the messenger with a ground wire or Bare Armored Ground cable going back to a nearby mains box that a ground can be tapped at).


Need more photos- but do you mean on the right? If so that looks to be more junk on top of your floor.

You may have to, depending on how bad they are, lever them out and flip them upside down. I had to rotate and flip about 30 boards in my house, and they came out just fine. I ended up getting some red oak stock as well to make the few I couldn't fix, but put them out of the way in corners.

Follow the guides for sanding and it should come up. However you may still have to flip them if they don't look right. Take for instance the nails- they've wrecked the wood around them and you won't bleach them out with Oxalate easily. Personally I wouldn't judge that harshly if I saw nails like that because I believe it adds character. And using oxalate is nasty.

Once everything was drum sanded down (be careful!), stained, and sealed, the place looked gorgeous.

-at least until a pipe burst and flooded everything in the middle of winter, gutting the place.


How do I protect the painted finish on my fiberglass door?

Unless the paint is only primer (not uncommon, actually, for painted doors - but I would expect the vendor or manufacturer to mention that in the instructions, or when you called about it) in which case a topcoat might work, the "peels off easily" aspect suggests that you'd need to strip it to get good adhesion.


What is purpose of end hinge on garage door?

They connect the sections together so the entire door moves when opening or closing it.

3 on each side means each except the bottom one is connected to the one below.


I ended up getting an outdoor extension cord for this.

The cord is used for stuff like powering Christmas decorations and the like, and has a cover to shield the outlets from the elements.


LED bulb replacement in Dusk-Dawn Outdoor 175W light

You will need to bypass the ballast! Failing to do so will fry the LED.

Corncob LEDs are always a bad idea. They are inefficient. They intentionally defeat the best characteristic of LED -- that they make a wedge of light, which is what you really want.

Look around at lights. You have wallpack lights painting a super bright spot on the wall (useless), path lights lighting a huge circle not just the path ... and oh, the skyglow!   Just here at this restaurant the car dealer's halide light is blasting in the window from across the highway. Meanwhile at the gas station,  the canopy lights make the pump area glow pleasantly, but even the trees in front of the place are pitch black. Their lights are LED and are properly aimed. This saves them a fortune.

Cost savings is in aiming, not LED

Fact is, halide lights are about as efficient as LED. If you go with a corncob LED, you won't save any money unless the LED is less bright: this is a common con-job when selling LEDs. I saw one ad claiming their 45 watt, 3300 lumen LED is more efficient that the 175 watt metal halide . um... a 175W MH is 14,600 lumens. It would take 4 of those corncobs to make the same light, and it's actually less efficient.

Your linked one is 7000 lm, half the brightness of your MH.

On the other hand, if you aim the LED in exactly the wedge of light that you want,  you're still no more lumen efficient, but you're only paying for the lumens that are actually on target.   We once had seven 400W halide lights (3150W) lighting up a 400' right-of-way (and also, half the town). They were on city poles, so the location was not good. This was costing $1600/year.  I specced a mere 250W of extremely well-aimed LED spots, $125/year.

Anyway, for former halide lights, I just mount an aimed  fixture inside the old diffuser, aimed out the hole in the bottom.  A tiny amount of splash light makes the diffuser glow, it looks nice.


What NEC code limits circuit breaker selection?

110.2 Approval. The conductors and equipment required or permitted by this Code shall be acceptable only if approved.
110.3￼(B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

Sometimes it's the basic stuff that's easiest to overlook.


Can I pressure test a gas line section that includes a pressure regulator?

My guess is that you will be fine to pressure test the system. It would be silly if a component of the whole system had to be excluded from a pressure test and added afterwards.
What is the brand and model number of the regulator? It would be trivial to find a spec sheet online or call the manufacturer.


Is it any relevant the energy consuption of IOT and RF receiving home devices?

If having your devices connected means you'll pay more attention slash automate your device usage -- dimming the lights, having them automatically turn off when no one is in the room -- then the sips of energy the connected devices use is certainly worth it.

For example, the Philips 458141 dimmer switch uses Zigbee and is battery powered (CR2450), with a minimum battery life of 3 years.

On the other side of the coin, if you install tons of connected gadgets yet don't reduce your energy consumption (or worse -- you use more energy) then the vampire power draw can hurt.

Bottom line:  install these devices and take advantage of them.  If you install them and don't use them, then you're wasting money up-front and continuously.


If it's going to get that hot in there you should be insulating the pipe regardless. Foil and fiberglass would do.

If it gets hot enough to damage pvc with water in it you have bigger problems. Have you ever seen the styrofoam cup with water experiment? Granted, you don't want the water in the pipes to be the only thing saving your pipes, but if the space inside the cabinet gets hot enough to melt pvc you're putting your entire home (and its occupants) at risk.


How to attach newel post to stringer below the tread?

I'd use four 5/16" x 3-1/2" lag screws through the stringer into the post, properly piloted, and construction adhesive at all contact points. Spread the screws as far as possible, staying at least 3/4" from any edges, for the best stability.

The bigger concern, though, is the attachment of the stringer to the landing. If that's not robust, your post won't be, either. If possible, add construction adhesive to that joint at all contact points, even inside and around any builder hardware (such as a hanger). Even a heavy bead wrapping the joint and tooled out slightly will add significant strength. You could also add a block to one or both sides of the stringer, against the hanging surface, and embed that in adhesive. Anything along those line will really help give you a solid post.


how to stop metal hooks in ends of side rails of wooden bed from squeaking

You could try lithium grease, but paraffin wax is less messy ;)


I Googled RCBS536 and found a number of references:

A copy of the manual
The unit on sale at Best Buy Canada
Parts for sale


Is it okay to have an ungrounded light fixture?

We live with legacy ungrounded fixtures all the time, usually without incident.  As I understand it, grounding is a backup system to give the high potential an easy path to ground (that is, a better path than YOU) if there is a short in the fixture.

Basically, grounding is a connection between the metal body of a fixture to a continuous ground (wire or metal shielding) that returns to the service panel and an earth ground. You could create a ground on a fixture by installing a screw in the metal body of the unit that could then take the ground wire. However, there could be more than one metal component in the fixture needing a ground, so it is by no means a sure fix.

The main issue is the likelihood of a user touching something metal on the fixture that could be accidentally live.  If the fixture is out of reach, the lack of a ground is probably a low risk. If it is a pull chain light, use of a string pull rather than metal is a good idea.


hardwood flooring in two rooms not parallel

Just taper a couple of pieces of flooring to distribute the adjustment across a wider area.  Preferably this would be done in a doorway, as IronEagle notes.  Trim them on the female side of a tongue/grooved board, because...:

I learned this lesson the hard way:  It's worth getting a bit or blade (router?  dado?) that you can use to reconstruct the groove on the trimmed side, so your boards still fit tightly together.


What wood should I use on a garage door?

Looks like cedar, that is a good wood to use.  One thing to do if you replace it, is seal the ends and backs of the boards before you put the wood on, so this is less likely to happen again


My light fixture made in China says use only 60volt 60W AC bulbs

Ain't no 60V around here...
If the instructions actually say 60V then throw the whole thing away. Seriously. I don't know any place on a 60V system, and you mentioned 120V (normal for USA/Canada/etc.) anyway. So if it really says 60V then that is a sign of extremely poor quality and I would not trust the actual parts that matter to be any good.
If it really says 120V 60W
If it really says 120V 60W, then this is an indication, often quite reasonable, that the fixture is not rated to dissipate more heat than generated by a 60W bulb. If that is the case, then you can normally put in any type of bulb - e.g., CFL, LED, a 40W incandescent, etc. - as long as it uses <= 60W of power. However, there are a few situations where straight replacement might not work:

Dimmers - if the fixture or an attached switch provides dimming capability, that may not work properly with a CFL or LED bulb.
"Smart" functions without a neutral - timing, remotes or other "smart" functions can either get a little bit of power through the bulb while it is "off", or they can be powered via the neutral. This trick of getting power through the bulb even when "off" doesn't work so well with CFL and especially LED bulbs.


How can I figure out why my light won't turn on?

It doesn't sound like you can yet definitively conclude that the neutral line is bad, however an easy way to verify a bad neutral connections would be to test continuity between neutral and ground at the light.  You can do this even using a cheap voltimeter by setting it to a low resistance setting.  More advanced voltimeters may have a special continuity check that will beep when it detects 0 resistance.

Since you have neutral and ground bars connected at your central box, you should show near 0 resistance between neutral and ground at the light.  If it is 1 or a much higher number than you have infinite resistance meaning that your light is either not grounded properly, you have a disconnect somewhere on the ground wire, or you have a disconnect somewhere between the neutral wire and the neutral bar in your central box.

NOTE: You describe a two way switch, however this diagram shows what is called a three way switch in the United States.  The load from the central box or from another receptacle on the circuit is either entering at one of the two switches or to the light itself.  Identify which of these wires carry power and inspect the wire connections at the light for ground, neutral and hot at the switch boxes and at the light.  Neutral's should be connected directly and not switched.

If these connections seem good then perform more continuity tests between ground and neutral at all locations to help identify if a wire is bad.  More than likely the disconnect is a loose crimp or wire nut at one of these three locations.

If you still cannot find anything wrong at all three locations then the problem is likely at a receptacle or luminaire further down the circuit, as you mentioned that you are also experiencing problems with lights ahead of the circuit as well.

CAUTION: Many European single phase systems operate at a high voltage.  As always be extremely careful and take your time when handling electricity!


One of our toilets refills VERY slowly - takes 15-20 minutes after flushing.

Assuming the old valve was replaced for just not shutting off & this is only happening after the new toilet valve went in. Then yes, it's debris in the line that ruined the new valve, likely from operating the shut-off valve. The toilet valve should be replaced again after flushing the supply line while opening & closing the shut-off valve to make sure all debris is gone.

You may want to turn the house main down a bit, you just want to flush the line (turn on a faucet closest to the main) & turn the main mostly closed so the faucet drops its flow to half but not less, you still want to scrub out the debris pretty good.

***** THE MAIN may also have debris so remove the faucet's aerator & operate the main until water runs clear.*****


Why is the light always on after replacing the light fitting?

Matching colors is usually correct, but there are exceptions. While this is considered the "right" way, it is for safety issues. The light will work either way. But we don't want the power from the brown going down the blue usually neutral in random parts of the wiring.

Which is why turning off the circuit with the switch is usually safe. If the wiring was reversed, with the switch on the blue neutral, the light will still work, but you would have gotten a really nasty full mains shock, instead of the "little" attenuated by dimmer shock. Always kill power to circuits at the breaker before working on them!

Dimmers, when full off, should indeed be full off. The fact it illuminates a light means it is defective. It needs to be replaced. It's not unusual for dimmers to emit a slight 50 hz hum during use, the volume proportional to the current being passed. But they must be able to completely open the circuit.

If you do get another dimmer instead of a regular switch, do ensure the lamps in the fixture are dimmable, and the dimmer is compatible with the lamp type.


Should my security cameras be raised up under the soffit for weather protection?

If those cameras are rated for outdoor, then I wouldn't worry about shielding them from the elements. I would focus instead on capturing an appropriate image. Place them where you feel they will get the picture that you need.

If those cameras are NOT outdoor rated, I would recommend getting an outdoor rated camera. Most people are quick to buy a DIY camera kit but in my experience most of those systems are garbage. If you want to be able to actually make out someones face, then you need to get a very high resolution camera. Most of the people I know have 720p cameras which are good for seeing that something is happening, but not great for picking out fine details like license plate numbers. 1080p Is generally a good bet but for my front door, I use a 1440p camera. When I check on it remotely, I can literally see the ants on the ground in front of my house. I also get EXTREMELY clear images of the solicitors and others that come to my door. If you want some recommendations, please let me know.


How does water flow through my water heater and up to the top floor without a pump?

The water coming to your home is under pressure. Typically about 60 psi.

Imagine a bucket with a lid and in the lid you have two holes cut. In one hole, you place a garden hose that fits snugly. You turn the water on and the bucket begins to fill. When the water reaches the top of the bucket, it will start to come out of the second hole.

Your water heater works the same way. The tank has two holes. One for water in and one for water out. The water coming into the tank will push water out of the outlet and up through your house because of the pressure.


Can a slab under load be concrete jacked or otherwise supported without taking down the wall?

Here in my town, I have seen foundation repair that is great for loss of substructure support, such as soil compaction or erosion.  What they do is bore a hole in the slab, and inject expanding urathane foam into the slab underside, as they watch the slab level and cracks.  What happens is under thousands of pounds of pressure, the foam replaces missing soil, and litterally lifts the sagging slab. Since the foam is like a liquid, it flows to where it is needed, and supports very evenly.  Once the engineer is satisfied he has the right amount of list, they turn the machine off, and shut the valve, but leave the fitting connected.  They wait for the foam to harden, before they disconnect.  At that point, the repair is pretty much permanent, at least until more erosion or settling causes the need to repeat.

As long as there isn't a place for the foam to escape, this works great.  If there is a sinkhole, or an opening that lets foam out, they may have to inject, pause for a day, and inject again...  till they get the needed results.  Obviously this is for a slab on or in the soil.  For slabs poured over basements, screw jacks and perhaps beams are installed in the basement.

But this is a job for a foundation repair expert.  This is one of those areas a do-it-yourselfer can do more harm than good.  A foundation repair company will have insurance for liability, in case something goes wrong that is his fault.  If you do it yourself, you could make things worse, and there is little limit to what worse means when it comes to supporting a house on a failing slab.


Base Conductor Size
Start out by using Table 310.15(B)(16), and applying any required corrections,  to determine what size conductors you'll need.  For your situation, we'll assume we can use the 75°C column, that you want to use copper conductors, and there's no other corrections required. So in your case, if you want to install a 50 ampere panel, you'll need at least 8 AWG copper conductors. If you want a 60 ampere panel, you'll need 6 AWG copper conductors.
Voltage Drop
Once you have the base conductor size selected, you'll want to calculate the voltage drop across that size conductors for the length of the feeders.  The first step here will be to use Table 8 from chapter 9 of the NEC, to determine the resistance of the conductors you've selected.
In your case, 8 AWG stranded copper wire has a resistance of 0.778 ohms per 1000 ft. 6 AWG stranded copper wire has a resistance of 0.491 ohms per 1000 ft.
Next you'll use the following formula, to calculate the voltage drop across the feeders.
V = L * 2 * R * A
Where:

V = Voltage Drop
L = Distance along the wire from one breaker to the next.
R = Resistance per foot of wire.
A = Current running through the conductor.

For a 50 ampere circuit, 130 ft. long, using 8 AWG stranded copper conductors, the calculation looks like this...
V = 130' * 2 * 0.000778 * 50 A
V = 260 * 0.000778 * 50 A
V = 0.20228 * 50 A
V = 10.114 V
10.114 V is 4.2% of 240 V.  The NEC recommends having a voltage drop less than 3%.  To achieve this, you're going to have to use larger conductors.
6 AWG stranded copper conductors have a resistance of 0.000491 ohms per foot, which means the voltage drop would only be 6.383 volts or 2.7%.
For a 60 ampere circuit 130' long, 6 AWG stranded copper conductors would have a voltage drop of 7.6596 volts or 3.2%. While 4 AWG stranded copper would be 4.8048 volts, or 2%.
Conductor Type
Once you know what size conductors you need, you'll have to determine what type of insulation the conductors should have.  Since you're burying the conduit, you'll need a wire rated for wet locations.  The popular choice in this situation, would be to use THWN wires.
Wire Size
Now that you know what size conductors, and what type of wires you'll use. Then next step is to determine the physical size of the wires, and how much space they'll take up in conduit.  For this, you can use Table 5 from chapter 9 of the NEC.  There you'll find that 6 AWG THWN wires have an area of 0.0507 square inches, while 4 AWG THWN wires have and area of 0.0824 square inches.
Conduit Fill
Using the size of one wire, you can figure out the area required for all four wires.
0.0507 * 4 = 0.2028 in.sq.
0.0824 * 4 = 0.3296 in.sq.
Use Table 1 from chapter 9 of the NEC, to determine the allowable conduit fill percent.  Since you'll have more than 2 conductors, you can fill the conduit to 40%.
Conduit Type
If you know what type of conduit you're using, you can use Table 4 from chapter 9 of the NEC to look up the area fill values for various sizes of conduit.
Conduit Size
Since you've decided to use Schedule 80 PVC, you'll simply find that table in Table 4. Then look down the 40% fill column, until you find an area large enough for all your wires.
In your case four 6 AWG THWN conductors, will require 1" Schedule 80 PVC. While four 4 AWG THWN conductors, will require 1 1/4" Schedule 80 PVC.
Conduit Size Alt.
If you don't feel like calculating wire/conduit area, and all the wires are the same size, you could use Table C.9 from Annex C of the NEC to look up the conduit size required. There you'll find that you can fit five 6 AWG THWN wires throug 1" Schedule 80 PVC, and that you can fit six 4 AWG THWN wires though 1 1/4" Schedule 80 PVC.
tl;dr

For 130' long 50 ampere feeder, use four 6 AWG stranded copper THWN conductors though 1" Schedule 80 PVC.
For 130' long 60 ampere feeder, use four 4 AWG stranded copper THWN conductors through 1 1/4" Schedule 80 PVC.

NOTES:

This answer contains some of the tables used in this answer.
If you don't feel like doing any maths, you can surely find a calculator online to do all the work for you.


Attach projector screen to a ceiling... but the width does not match the studs. Ideas?

Most screens have both screw-mounts and hang-mounts (loops) built in - the loops often fold if not in use. If your screen does not have the loops then you could add your stick/board to it to get some. Or it may have largish-holes that a chain screw-joint link could be placed through on the end-caps.

Use the hang-mounts and chains and screw-joint links as seen on trailer safety chains (or carabiners if you'll be moving it frequently, I guess, and it's not a public-ish location.) It's actually more stable if the hooks on the wall are wider than the hooks on the screen, so the chains angle in. Use chain, not wire. I speak from experience on that point - also use chain and links a good deal stronger than the weight of the screen would seem to require.


Because the showerhead isn't installed properly (or it is damaged/cracked).

First try tightening it.  They just screw on.  Make sure the threaded piece of the showerhead isn't cracked - some cheap plastic ones break quite easily, and if that is the problem you need to replace the showerhead.

Take it off and make sure there is a rubber washer inside and that it is still in good shape - if not, get a new washer for it.

If that doesn't work, get some white plumbing tape that goes around the threads to ensure a tight seal.


How is a transition between drywall and wood typically handled?

Here's a few options I can think of.
Lap joint
If the wood is a bit thicker than the drywall, you could use a router to remove some of the material on the back side of the lowest plank (may require installing an additional plank, or extending the drywall). Then allow the lowest plank to lap over the drywall. Make sure you leave enough of a gap between the two materials, to allow for expansion and contraction.

Transition
Another option would be to use a transition strip, like the ones commonly used in flooring. You'd use T-molding if the materials are even with each other, or a reducer if they're not.

Molding
A simple 1x4 like the previous owners had, or a more decorative piece of molding could be used.


Gap showing between baseboard and shorter-pile carpet

I'm assuming that you have a similar set up that I do, I had used inside-corner shoe on my house (instead of quarter-round). In my terrible picture, I've illustrated how I had affixed my trim, running a straight length along the stair, along the riser... The corner is cut at 45 degrees... Then, I ran a piece along the wall, beveled that at 45 degrees (so it doesn't snag), and painted it to match the rest of the trim.

The red is meant to be the trim here:


Old drills randomly starts slow and rattling (if at all)

JJM your understanding of how motor brushes work is lacking some practical experience.  For less than 20$ you can probably have both running like new and gain the experience.
Holding the motor at an angle may cause speed changes. Bumping the motor can get them going or kill them.
I looked for AGE brushes and a video came up , easy to change , 2 screws remove the black grip and the brushes are right there.
Some brushes when the wear through damage the armature. Pulling the brushes is usually not difficult and on some models down right simple so please check them or they will be yet another thing for the trash.
Some skill motors
Removing a plastic disk that is screwed in and pulling the brush takes a few seconds other models opening the case and pulling the brush may take a few minutes. Most brush sets can be found for under 12$ and some for as little as 2.50$ for a pair.
I would encourage you to at least try before the armature is damaged and you might find the motor preforms like it should. And you learn a new skill that is rapidly being lost.


How do I get my dishwasher running after replacing my kitchen faucet?

check to make sure the valve going to the dishwasher wasn't accidentally closed when you changed the faucet. Follow the flex pipe from the dishwasher to the valve and make sure the valve is open.


How do I know what light bulb size I should get for a socket? The socket is smaller than the average socket

The two most common screw type bulbs in the US are the standard Edison 1" base now normally described by it's international metric standardization as an E26 and the 1/2" E12 candelabra base.
There is also an "Intermediate" socket, an E17 that is mostly used in appliances, and an E11 minicandelabra that is almost always a halogen lamp.
A picture would help.


Can I use rivets to attach electrical boxes to Purlins?

The code requires that the box be "rigidly and securely fastened" to the purlin.  Rivets seem OK to me, and I think would seem OK to most inspectors.  Having some specs on the mechanical strength of the rivets might help you if there's a question.
Rivets are specifically mentioned as an acceptable way to fasten a box to the frame of a ceiling grid.  To me that helps you argue that they are OK to attach to your purlin.  On the other hand, the inspector could argue that the ceiling gives the box some protection and something more rigid and secure is needed exposed on a purlin.


Drywall. Thin (1/4 inch is available) drywall. It can be screwed to the subsurface or glued if there is not easy access to wood or steel framing. Tape the seams and the edges, a few coates of joint compound, and it is smooth sailing.

If the subsurface is not level enough, a few shims, also glued to the wall should let you get a fairly flat surface.

This is not structural, just a solid surface for paint or wallpaper.


How to polish welding at 90 degree curves?

That welding would be termed by one of my instructors as “bird droppings”...

It needs to be done properly where the weld joins and fills the 90 gap evenly and is called a fillet weld.

Get them to grind it out and do it properly. A 4” angle grinder with a new disc will get into that.

Have a look at some of the welds shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrS_yafue6M


Aluminum vs galvanized vs stainless tubing for fence with railing?

Thick wall Aluminum can work, but you'll likely need to sand or grind it annually. Salt air and Aluminum don't really like each other, they're only cordial most of the time.

Stainless Steel is your only real option and will be vastly stronger as well as maintenance free the longest. It too can be sanded and ground back to new way down the road. Burnish it with the shiny side of aluminum foil after a renewal to deposit a fresh layer of chromium and nickel.


How to install a portable AC exhaust in a vertical window with horizontal blinds?

With a long enough vertical window adapter kit, you could likely get the exhaust hose port to be at the very bottom of your window. That would let you get your blinds almost all the way down, which might be good enough. There's really not much more you can do -- portable A/C units work best with a direct exhaust route to the outside, so any shenanigans to try and squeeze that exhaust hose between your blinds will reduce its efficiency and lead to sub-par cooling.

You could also use a special, sliding-window A/C unit (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-FFRS1022R1-115-volt-Conditioner-Full-Function/dp/B00VV2JV3I), which might be able to fit behind your blinds.


Insulating basement that's already framed with electrical run

Just wanted to come back and say my plan is now to remove the fiberglass insulation from the top half of the wall, cover the walls with foam foam board insulation (EPS) by threading sheets through the studs and at the large openings for my egress windows, then reuse the fiberglass in the stud bays (along with more I'll need to purchase).  This approach has been recommended to me on several forums in order to minimize condensation on the cold concrete walls when warmer air from inside hits it -- especially in winter.  For about $1000, it seems the smart thing to do, albeit a bit of a pain to get all that foam delivered and installed.  But this is a large basement that will have a lot of living space, so it's obviously best to do it right.  Thanks for replies all!  Any further input is certainly welcome!


Whats the best way to patch a 1.5" hole in a poured foundation wall?

If the water is running through the conduit foam or duct seal would serve you better than cement. Duct seal has the advantage of not hardening, which should minimize the bill and foul language if you need an electrician to pull a new wire down the road. Then again, I'm not an electrician so there may be a better mousetrap.

To answer your original question "hydraulic cement" generally refers to products with a very short dry time that can be used in wet conditions. (Or under water) In addition they generally expand while they cure, as opposed to Portland cement which shrinks slightly. That's the big selling point for foundation work because it means there's no way for ground moisture to seep around the patch.

The rationale for slight dampness is twofold. Masonry absorbs water, which complicates repairs. If you don't dampen the existing work it can draw water out of the new work and weakens it along the bond. In addition, products based on Portland cement requires ample water to cure but cure very weak if there's too much water. Generally that involves lightly spritzing the surface periodically during the cure so that it remains damp without standing water. Both are less of an issue with hydraulic cement simply because you wouldn't be paying the premium for it unless you were already working in a damp area.


Looking at the manual, it looks like the top mounting points are about 1' above the bottom mounting points. If you have that 55 pound TV at the full extension of 2', then that means the top mounting points will be pulling directly out from the wall with double the weight of the TV, or 110 pounds. Guess that someone will lean on the thing, or your cat will jump on top, and you should plan for at least 200 pounds of pull on those anchor points (100 pounds per screw).

I doubt that a single screw in a 2x3 can reliably hold 100 pounds pull straight out from the wall. That, plus the info that you need a 2x4 cavity to use that power bridge, leads to the following suggestion:

Cut a 1/2" plywood panel large enough to support the base of the OmniMount, plus a few inches on all sides
Bevel the edges of the panel to make it look more planned/streamlined
Cut a hole in the middle of the panel for the power bridge, expecting to mount the bridge into the hole, rather than into the wall, so you have the needed extra depth
Cut a clearance hole in the wall for the power bridge
Mount the panel to your studs with plenty of 3" lag bolts
Mount the OmniMount to the panel
Mount the TV to the OmniMount

It's possible this is overkill, but wouldn't you rather be sure your lovely new 65" TV didn't become a YouTube-able lesson?


Why would my GFCI breaker trip when I flip a switch?

First, don't sweat bullets over the last guy's work. "The last guy did a bodge job and I had to fix it" are famous last words, said right before your project goes sideways into "hire an electrican" land.

Stay in focus.  Keep the project scope as small as possible, don't try to fix two different things at once.

"common" isn't

You mentioned "common", and that's a typical way an electronics or automotive guy talks about mains neutral.  In electronics, everything connects back to a "common" which is a big groundplane, or the chassis of the car, and in those cases, that is the normal current return.  Not in mains wiring.

In mains wiring, the closest thing to "common" is actually the Equipment Safety Ground (green/bare wire), and it is not a current return at all (except during a fault condition).  Other than that, mains electrical is wired like an isolated system where both supply and return are 100% separated from the groundplane.  What's more, circuits are isolated from each other - or at least, they're supposed to be. The reason is EMFs and eddy current heating, but this also bears very heavy on GFCIs.  They work like this:

The GFCI is a simple current transformer.  It wants to see currents are equal (sum to zero) in all conductors.

As said, circuits mustn't share neutrals, and you can see the havoc that would follow if circuits did.  Even if a circuit was not on GFCI, but it returned neutral on a circuit that was on GFCI, it would guarantee a GFCI trip on that unrelated circuit.

I think that is the root of your trouble.


3-way chandelier switch strange behavior

There were more than 2 switches (4, in fact!) connected to this light that fully explain the behavior.


Will gfci receptacles trip before a gfci breaker on same circuit

They'll both trip

Both GFCIs will see the ground fault and react the same way to it, snapping off at the same time.

When you go to reset the receptacle, it will be dead.  You will need to go down to the basement to reset the GFCI breaker, and then, the GFCI outlet will have a chance of being reset.

The contractor did it to correct a code violation

Bathrooms can use all sorts of outlets, but they must be GFCI protected.   A GFCI breaker is a perfectly fine way to do that.  However, any outlet protected by an upline device must have a sticker that says "GFCI Protected".

The home inspector came in and saw no GFCI device and no sticker, so wrote it up as a Code violation.  The seller or Realtor, in a rush to get the house sold, called in a contractor and said "Fix this!"

The mortal of the story is Put stickers on your GFCI receps.

A lot of moro^Htals believe that all GFCI devices are receptacles, and when someone says GFCI they mean receptacle.  So in their rush to fix it, the message got passed to the contractor "No GFCI in the bathroom, 2 receps" which the contractor took to mean "no GFCI receptacles". The contractor may not have been a qualified electrician who would have known better.  Or maybe the markup was just better on 2 GFCI receps than 2 stickers.

Regardless, they have played a "Yo dawg" joke on you.


Should I scribe a floor reducer over an uneven floor?

If it's flexible enough to bend without too much pressure, just glue it, close the door and wedge a few shims in to keep it down.

If it's really resistant to bending, you could cut a few invisible kerfs on the underside.


thermostat assembly verification for electric oven (with pictures)

Fixed the issue by flipping over the bracket that hinges on the springs. now it open and closes correctly.

when it's correctly inserted there is a kind of "clicking" noise and the bracket moves with far less restrain.

basically it's the same as show in the pictures, the bracket with the "circle" indent in the middle needs to be flipped over. the springs then attach the same way.


Can mortise and tenon joints be strong without glue?

You could use one of the many variations of the mortise and tenon joint, depending on the look you're going for. Though I agree with HerrBag, that the strength of a mortise and tenon joint should not rely on glue.
Tusk Tenon
This is a through tenon variation, where a wedge is used to lock the joint together.

Fox tail (Wedged) Tenon
This is another through variation, though the tenon ends up flush on the outside of the joint.  In this joint slots are cut into the tenon. and wedges are driven into the slots after assembly. This causes the tenon to expand, and tighten in the mortise.  Usually the mortise will be slightly tapered, to allow additional expansion and to create a stronger joint.


Do I really need a special bulb in the oven?

Gotta tell you, I tried the same thing long ago. Learn from my stupidity. LOL  Seems that regular bulbs really don't like the high heat or getting splattered with cooking juices,  shatter at the first contact with liquid.  Think you better spend the couple of extra $$$ and not have to clean up a shattered glass mess in your oven.


Laminate flooring showing vertical gap when cabinet place on it

Often people install laminate floors on a foam based underlayment. It's possible the heavy object is compressing it sufficiently to cause the gaps.

Examples: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Flooring-Tools-Materials-Surface-Prep-Underlayment/


Is the ceiling above a shower a "wet" or "damp" location?

The ceiling surface should be considered as a wet location, as it could be sprayed by water as you said. However, the above ceiling space is not in direct contact with water as the ceiling itself is blocking the potential spray.

The trim for the fixture must be wet location listed, whereas the fixture itself would be damp listed. (The fixture would only be dry depending on the height of the ceiling over the shower itself)


They sell an expensive version of a common product sold under a dozen different names, many of which can be found substantially cheaper at big box home improvement stores or even online.


Why is a new coat of polyurethane tacky?

I had this issue with old trim that had a water based stain and a think coating of either poly or lacquer. You should take the door off and place it on two saw horses. I would start with a clean rag and lacquer thinner and try to wipe the door down. You should be able to get most of the finish off without doing a lot of harm to the stain. Once the poly comes off you will have a dull matte finish. If you apply "wipe on poly" after that dries you should get the sheen back. make sure you aren't scrubbing in one spot because you can over do some areas and kind of sand out spot from the wood. I also tried stripped but you need a lot of ventilation and a lot of rags. It was easier just taking the time and cleaning with the Lacquer thinner. They sell it at Home Depot for like $7.00. Acetone might work as well.


That's an off-spec black

That "gray" wire is really a black wire that is off-spec a bit on color, as NM does not come with gray wires in it (or pink for that matter, so the "pink" wire is really a red wire).


Structural cross joists and load-bearing walls (century home)

Pre-demolition, this could have been a "double floor" or "double framed floor". If you look up the wikipedia article on floor joists(I would link directly, but I don't have enough rep), it gives you a bit more context. The intention being one set is for the ceiling, and the other is for the floor above.
Alternatively, with century homes in particular, you can get quirks because of the wood sources - this could just be strapping with what was available. Modern buildings use 1x4 (or 1x3)
].
To answer the question "is this load bearing?", as with similar questions I think the best answer is get a professional in to determine that.


How do you find underground pipe and wires to a private well and how deep would they be?

If your water does not freeze up in the winter, they are presumably buried below frost line for your area - which is typically where they do get put by competent installers (and not terribly deep if there is no frost.)  In my area that's 4-5 feet, typically. In most but not all cases it will probably be the shortest, most direct path from where it comes out of the house to the well. The only way to be sure is to carefully dig down and find it on either end, and then use those locations to try and find it nearer to where you might be damaging it if you blindly pounded things into the hillside.

Once you have found a few specific points, be sure to witness them in one or more of these methods:

take very careful tape measure distance readings to fixed objects
(the well-head if it sticks out of the ground, the corners of the
house foundation, other objects likely to stay put for a long time)
and write those measurements down on a map - you can then construct a
triangle to find the pipe again by measuring from a fixed point as
recorded on the map and making an arc, then doing the same from
anther fixed point - where the two arcs cross, the point you
measured the well-pipe at should be below (within some scope of
error.)
I'm fond of a more direct approach, where I construct an annual
flowerbed or easily movable perennial plants flowerbed as a physical
witness to the item below. You'd still want to save a map with the "important house paperwork" and hope it doesn't go missing, but there's no doubt where to dig unless someone obliterates the flowerbed in question. If you remember not to move it, some sort of lawn decoration could serve the same purpose, but a flowerbed is more lasting.
A section of inexpensive PVC electrical conduit just shorter than the depth to the buried item and marked (both what, and from 0 at the bottom to how long it is at the top as a measuring device) with permanent marker can also be buried in the hole as a guide to future digging. The idea being that you can find it quickly as it's just barely buried, and then follow it down and know how close you are to the buried item.


Do solid hardwood floors have top laminate layers--or is this engineered?

Looks like a composite or engineered floor to me. That top layer will be 3mm or so thick and can be sanded once or twice if you don't go crazy with the sander.
Unfortunately most of these engineered floors do not fare well with moisture. Leave an offcut outside for a day or two and you'll see what I mean.


What mesh to buy (and where to buy it) for gabion walls?

I have done further research following brhan's suggestion and I have found a galvanized fencing that's 12 gauge. Here is a link to product. It comes in various sizes, including 8' wide.

Pivoting this discussion, what I'm wondering about is whether 12 gauge would offer sufficient strength in a retaining wall application?


What am I sealing as I install my Shower Faucet Stem and Handle?

Best way would be if you put a bead of plumbers putty on the back of the sleeve, it's easier now and latter on if you have to remove it again.


Should my pool pump be hard-wired or plugged into an oulet?

The max rating is 25a so replacing the 30 amp breaker with a 20 will probably work. Most jurisdictions don’t allow a plug for a disconnect it would be proper to have a standard 30 or 60 amp rated disconnect , if it Tripp’s the 20 amp on start up you can use a larger breaker but because the MFG states max 25 that’s the max. You can always use larger wire so that is fine.


Can a second floor exterior egress stairway go past a window on first floor on way down?

Yes, but depending on where the window is relative to the stair and its dimensions, you may need a proper guardrail installed and/or the window would need to be made of tempered glass. This is the same requirement for low sill windows where someone could potentially fall through the window at normal floor level, except the stair treads can be considered "floor level" for determining application of the rules.

There can easily be local requirements in addition to IBC requirements.


Garage door sometimes doesn't open all the way: belt or opener?

Try disconnecting the door from the opener. Then you can open and close the door by hand to see if there is anything stuck or jammed. Could be that there is a kink in the track or one of the wheels is coming off the rail or something.

If door runs smoothly and without much effort then you can turn your attention to the opener. Note that it may be easier to just replace the whole unit; door openers are not that expensive. I certainly would not call a professional... a new opener is only $150 or so, you could easily blow through that with a diagnostic visit from a tech without actually getting to the real problem.

(If you have never disconnected the door before: there is usually a pull-cord or lever where the curved door arm meets the rail. Pull down to release the door, then push it back up to re-engage when you're done.)


Can I mount a router to the Ridgid R4510 table saw?

Nothing commercially available nor would I expect one.  I've made one for mine with a fairly detailed build thread on the Router Forums.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/35529-router-insert-ridgid-r4510-table-saw.html


How do I raise light switches so my kids can't keep toggling the light?

They make various types of "child proof" switch guards, which might be a more practical approach than moving all the switches.


Repair roof flashing that is tucked under gutter rather than over it

I wouldn't want to un-nail the bottom row of shingles because the second row could easily be damaged and now you'd have a roof leak. Bending the flashing might work but if you bend it too much, you'll never straighten it back right. Removing the gutter, or removing enough fasteners to slip the gutter under the flashing would be the best, do it right, option.... and wait until it warms up a bit.


Dealing with an outdoor grill with a bad gas line

Converting to propane is probably the only viable option. I don't know what the code is in your area but the gas line being in contact with the concrete suggests that it's not to code. Gas lines underground should be in a chase and buried to a set depth. It should never touch the concrete. My code states a minimum of 18" depth, it can't exit the building underground through the foundation and it must be flexible. Plastic gas line is approved for direct burial but uses pre sleeved risers to penetrate the ground. Your gas line is leaking so it should be rendered inoperable by disconnecting it at the valve and capping it. A propane conversion is relatively easy to do. If you can't find the appropriate kit, universal burner kits are available.

I'm not sure if this applies to you. It's aTurbo conversion PDF. If you reference the model number it would be helpful. It's on there somewhere. Sometimes the built in barbecues have information on a tag attached by the regulator.

Another potential option is to repair the pipe. Assuming that the line is "to code" up to the break, the line could be repaired by breaking the concrete around it and continuing the chase higher after a joint in the pipe is made. This would only apply if the "floor" was poured above the original "to code" gas line install and caused the damage.


How to HVAC service 3 floors without ducts in roof?

HVAC is most efficient when you blow in the cold air from above and let it settle down. This gives a very even temperature gradient from head to toe. Just blowing it in from the floor will make your feet cold and your head hot, causing you to lower the thermostat and drive up your operating costs.

It is worth the effort to install the ducting in the ceiling or at the ceiling level, wherever possible. It may seem inelegant, but it's a good idea.


What is the buzzing noise I hear for about 30 seconds before my furnace blower starts?

A possibility is that this sound is a noisy flue inducer motor rather than the main blower motor. This is just suggestion for you to investigate. If the sound starts right after the thermostat calls for heat and before the burner turns on, then I think this is it. The main blower does not get called until a while after the main burner comes on and heats up the heat exchanger.

Maybe the flue inducer fan motor has its bearings worn, or maybe service of the inducer is required. Apparently this inducer makes a draft through the flue until the main burner turns on. It may be that then the inducer motor is depowered when the burner comes on. If so, the heated combustion gases in the flue are sufficient to pull air through. Or it may be that the inducer motor stays on but the hot exhaust gases put a smaller load on the fan and so the bearings are quieter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4Lzxk6-of0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sNUAsIFW3g

Google this e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYn6VWV0HNY


Clicking noise in wall, every 23 seconds

Typically a main stack vent that is rubbing against a structural stud, sill plate, or drywall.  I have fixed this ticking/clicking noise in two houses by cutting out the offending piece of 3/4" drywall and replacing with 1/2" on top of furring strips to give the pipe some room to expand.


The feature you want is referred to 'Auto Changeover".  But this feature is usually only on the higher end programmable thermostats now.


Here's a diagram of a hot water recirculating system

As I understand it, the idea here is that the recirculating system runs hot water around the pipework to keep the temperature hot near the faucets/taps. This allows for instant hot water at faucets/taps far from the water heater.

Even when no taps are running the pump should be actively maintaining the circulation as needed. It needs to do this as any unlagged pipes will cool the water in them if no faucets/taps are drawing hot water.

When the water near the faucets/taps is sufficiently hot, the "Aquastat" will turn the pump off.

Your power feed to the recirculating system should be via a timer, or other device, that lets the pump run whenever the "Aquastat" feels necessary. This should be "on" during any times of the day when you are likely to use the faucets/taps.

Some ideas:

your timer isn't on or you are not allowing time for the pump to raise pipe temp.
your "aquastat" is faulty.
your "aquastat" is not near the faucet/tap you tried.
your configuration needs additional "aquastats" or the "aquastat" relocated.

You should be able to test this with a thermometer and a voltmeter if you can locate the "aquastat"


How do I wire a switched outlet with the switch downstream?

Only if you either have only one outlet or have 3 conductors all the way between the feed and the switch. Notice in your top diagram that there isn't a neutral going to the switch - it is being used as a switched hot. If you have more than one outlet, you need to find a way to get a neutral beyond the first one. See below - ground and boxes omitted for clarity (feed is from the left):

If there is only one outlet between the feed and the switch, you just wire it like your top diagram with the outlet as the "light".


How should I demolish the brick wainscoting on my house's exterior wall?

From the top down, one brick at a time.

All your chisels strikes should impact towards the lower and next brick, laterally or directly downwards. Place the chisel point in the mortar bed, drive it under the brick, and voilà. If the top row abuts something, these bricks may be difficult, but the rest will come right out once two adjacent sides are free.

This is how I'd attack most brick walls anyway, that I couldn't just push over; using my chipping hammer. Let this be your excuse to buy a rotatory chipping hammer (that toggles to just impact) or have fun with your 5 pound sledge and a cold chisel. (zoro.com)

-Swinging hammers sucks; popping out a single row of bricks (from the top) is child's play with a chipping hammer.


Can I use 2.5v bulbs in a holiday light string designed for 5v bulbs?

My guess is yes - they'll just draw whatever current makes sense, and since they're lower voltage won't generate more heat.

No, that's not how it works.
Bulbs that are made for 2.5V can't be supplied with 5V, they'll draw twice as much power and burn very bright, but will probably burn out very quickly.
If you underpowered the bulbs - used a 2.5V power supply on 5V lights - that would likely just make them glow dim - but they'd probably last a long time.


Gas fireplace - no spark for igniter - Martin DV5500 RVN

I have one of these fireplaces. The glass front does come off. If I recall correctly remove the piece above the glass front first and then you'll see retaining clips holding the glass front in place.


The only way to be sure is to send a sample to a testing lab. Send a sample of the adhesive too, since asbestos was sometimes mixed into that. I'm assuming this is tiles; if so you can lift one buy using a heat gun to soften the adhesive and gently lifting with a putty knife.

In most cases, encapsulating the suspect tile under a floating floor is acceptable if the stuff isn't already shedding fibers.


Is it okay to put house wrap over the top of pre-existing foam insulation?

Cement lap siding is extremely durable compared to vinyl. Good move!

By "foam", I assume you mean polystyrene foam board. I would not remove the foam, since it increases the insulation in your house, and reduces both heating and cooling bills. But a "water resistive barrier" (house wrap) is required under cement boards. So if your house doesn't already have one under the foam board, you must install one.

Cement board is OK to install directly over foam board up to 1" thick. If yours is thicker, you need to install furring strips over the foam board, or remove/replace it.

More installation requirements for one brand of cement board (don't know if you're using this brand, but other brands surely have installation requirements available either online or in print) are available here:
http://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/installation/hardieplank-hz5-ca-en.pdf


Why would my garage have separate ceiling joists suspended below larger floor joists?

You ask, “Has anyone heard of this before?” Sure and it seems very logical to me. They are using the lumber where it’s needed most: the bigger joists to support the heavier snow loads and the smaller ceiling joists to support the lighter ceiling finish. Also, the deflection from the snow will not affect (crack) the ceiling finish because the structural systems operate independently of each other.

Now, you want to change that. You’re going to tie the two structural systems together AND add a superimposed load. Hmmm...


goodman furnace /ac no y terminal on board (revisited)

Use a relay

You can wire a standard HVAC "blower relay" of the SPST-N/O type with its coil connected between Y and C  and its contact connected between G and R and mount it in the furnace's wiring compartment.  This allows the thermostat to energize G by itself to turn on the blower without energizing Y by accident, but also energizes G to turn the fan on when the thermostat applies power to Y to call for compressor.


Going through condensate pumps every 2-3 years

There is a big range in quality for condensate pumps.
 Condensate is actually hard on pumps and most of them are plastic, plastic seals impeller sometimes even bearing surfaces and case.
The more expensive ones have rubber seals or ceramic and better level switches , many of the plastic ones I have found that are bad were because the shaft seals melted (plastic) I believe that the cause in part is because of contacts sticking or the pump running dry from mold when the pump runs dry melting the seal.

The high end pumps I use in commercial systems cost much more but are metal,  both brass and stainless models with much better seals and capacitive sensors to turn the pump on. The price difference if you are going through them this often the more expensive is worth it because you only mess with it every 15-20 years and the seals are replaceable ~20$ and the sensors can also be replaced ~34$ this with a new set of bearings ~10$ for both and the pump is like new and will last another 15-20 years . so yes it can be the pump.
mold buildup can plug the inlet to the pump and run it dry causing failure quicker. I mentioned it but did not explain. Having some head pressure depending on where the check valve is if it has one can actually extend the life because there is water being pushed (as long the pump specs are not exceeded).


Does the ground wire for my pool connect to the pumps?

All your pumps should have the #8 connected to them (bonding), as they can become energized and you don't want that using your pool for a ground. This is not a substitute for grounding the pump through the electrical wiring. You need both, per NEC 680.26

  (a) Double-Insulated Water Pump Motors. Where a double-insulated water-pump motor is installed, a solid 8 AWG copper conductor from the bonding grid shall be provided for a replacement motor.

The lights must also be bonded if they are in a metal enclosure.

  (4) Underwater Metal Forming Shells. Metal forming shells and mounting brackets for luminaires and speakers shall be bonded to the equipotential grid.


Vacuum sucked in some of the grout between tiles, how to fill the gap?

Don't use cement or thin set. Use maybe a premixed grout (can sometimes be bought in quarts). Use a grout saw to remove some of the other loose grout
While the water can seep under easily, there's no danger in mopping. The grout let's water come back up


One rail of my three rail track lighting fixture isn't working

You probably have 4 rails there, just two happen to be in-line, on either side of the power input (gray block in center.)

Your problem is likely at the right side (in the picture) corner connector. Given that the power supply appears to be shared, the power supply would seem to be fine given the working lights - but the conductors are not conducting around the corner. Exactly why is hard to determine remotely, but that's where to look.


Safety when modifying old electrical work

North American view, since OP is there.

Wires in electrical wiring are NOT color coded

Your mistake there was assuming white meant neutral.   The simple fact is that electrical wiring is not color coded.  That's because cables are manufactured with only one set of colors - black and white for /2 cable or black, white and red for /3.  No matter what function the wire has, it must "make do" with the colors available in standard cable.

Any colors you want, as long as you want black, white and maybe red.

There are only 2 color rules.

Grounds are always and only, green, yellow-green or bare.  Those colors can only be ground.
Neutrals can only be white or mid-gray, but that only applies if this cable has a neutral.  If this cable doesn't need a neutral, white can be a hot.  You're supposed to mark it with paint or tape, but previously you could skip it if the usage was "obvious". (to an electrician, heh).

This last one is what bit you.

Smart switches have special needs

You should have opened up your switch and investigated the wires that were available to you, before you bought the switch.  If you only see 2 wires (besides ground), they must be always-hot and switched-hot, because a switch can't work without those two.

If your location doesn't have neutral, don't buy a smart switch that needs it.

If your location doesn't have ground, ditto.

You may hear things that tempt you to use ground for neutral or vice versa.  Don't. Neutral is not ground.

There are smart switches that require neither neutral nor ground.  They may require at least one of the bulbs to be compatible LED, incandescent, or a capacitor-resistor bypass added.

There are also other ways to work around the problem, such as smart switches that put a switching module up in the ceiling rose, then the wall switch effectively becomes a "remote" for the module.


What can I use to lubricate electrical contacts?

I suggest the use of a `dielectric grease'. In particular, look for one compatible with high temperature, which are often made out of silicone. The grease can be ordered online, but would also be available at many auto-parts stores.

One requirement of this application is that the lubricant must not be electrically conductive. If a conductive lubricant is used, it would be a fire hazard. Dielectric means that it wouldn't conduct electricity.


My dining room light will not turn on or off by the wall switch

Based on the information you gave, one white/black pair in the ceiling box is the incoming power, and the other white/black pair goes to the switch.  You need to determine which pair is which.  Connect the chandelier to one pair and turn the breaker back on.  If the chandelier lights up, that's the incoming power, and the other pair should be the switch.  If you have a continuity tester, you can hook it up to what should be the switched pair (with the breaker off again) and verify that you have continuity when the white and black wires going to the dimmer are touched together.  Turning the dimmer on and off may not be enough to get a reading on the tester - the wires need to be touching.

Once the pairs are identified as incoming and switched, the ceiling box should be wired as follows.  Connect the incoming white wire to the white wire of the chandelier.  The incoming black wire should be connected to the switch black wire, and the switch white wire should connect to the black wire of the lamp.  You should also wrap black electrical tape around the white switch wire since it is playing the role of a black wire.  This "marks" the wire as black for anyone looking at it later.  The same should be done for the white wire at the switch.  It should not matter how the wires are connected to the dimmer.

Edit:
Now that I search for an image, this appears to be a possible duplicate of:
How to properly wire a ceiling light fixture?
Which has some handy diagrams.  I suspect what you have is the first picture, and what you need is the second picture:


You'd reproduce that function with knee braces, which is what nearly everyone else does. Such hardware would need to be very robust to do the job on a larger pergola, making it cost-prohibitive (and somewhat ugly). You can find heavy-duty pergola hardware kits online, though they won't be exactly what you've shown.
However, three simple L-brackets on each corner (two on the faces and one on top), properly sized and with adequate bolts, would probably do. You'd need at least four bolts through each bracket, for a total of 12 at each corner. You can see how this gets messy in a hurry.
To rectify your apparent misconception, the challenge isn't carrying the weight of your beam. It's dealing with the racking forces applied to the corner joints. There can be a ton of torque on those points in the wind.


What kind of lock is this, and how can I replace it?

If you look at the lower picture, you'll see that the missing tab served to hold the plug in its recessed (locked) position. When rotated 90 degrees it lined up with the cut-outs, letting the spring (lost, I presume?) push it out to the unlocked position.

It may also have helped retain the plug in the lock. More commonly, that's actually done by a reserved wafer, so the plug can be removed and rekeyed by cutting a modified key (or by picking). If you had a new key cut recently and the new key is a bit longer or otherwise not identical, you may have unintentionally engaged that function.

If you contact the window's manufacturer -- or the lock's manufacturer if it's an aftermarket addition -- they may be able to send you a new plug with instructions for installing it. If you give them the key number they can probably issue one that responds to the same key. If you can't find a brandname, a locksmith may be able to take measurements and track it down.

Note, however, that the lock cylinder is not required to operate the latch, only to make it tamper-resistant. So you could leave it as it is, or just shove the plug back into the lock and operate it as a manual bolt rather than one that automatically pops out when you turn the key. Not as secure as it was originally,  but more so than leaving the cylinder out.


What flow rate should I select in a shower head for a home with low water pressure?

The 2.5GM shower head will provide you with better flow (but will cost more in water and water heating) - and could also cause lower pressure elsewhere while the shower is running.

Removing flow restrictors will likewise increase the flow of water and feel more powerful.

It is possible for lower flow heads to perform better then might be expected due to the venturi effect and mixing air with the water, but I expect that if you have low pressure this will not help you.

If you are purchasing a new head in a bid to fix your low pressure issue, might I suggest removing the flow restrictor first - if that fixes your problems, go with a lower GPM head to save water (because the pressure will be there), otherwise get a booster pump.


Should Honeywell W8150A1001 switch be set to “On” or “Override”?

Below is the text from the user manual. Hope it is helpful. I have the same unit in Florida, also high humidity.

On (optimal ventilation) – W8150 ventilates, based on control settings.
Override – W8150 runs ventilation continuously.
Off (Remote Only) – W8150 supplies ventilation only when there is aremote call.

If the ON position is causing the blower to run continuously (mine does not), then recommend to set your unit to OFF, unless you always want fresh and humid air which is what OVERRIDE is giving you.


Preventing push-spring drain stoppers from getting stuck

Next time you have to disassemble it, clean it real good with some emery paper and then rub some plumber's grease over the parts and reassemble. Don't use regular silicone grease, get the plumber's silicone grease. It's thicker and lasts much longer. Good luck.


Many of have worked in attics without masks over the years at hundreds or thousands of times the exposure you are getting but I won’t say it’s not a health issue but I am not aware of any issues with such a light exposure.

Other areas to check include the duct work. Metal trunk ducts usually have a fiberglass blanket that is foil backed. If someone tweaked the trunk line they may have disturbed a seam and created a Venturi that is pulling some fibers in, I bring this up because a home owner sat on his trunk line and it pulled in quite a bit but I was able to seal it up, since the ceiling was down you may have not noticed.

Flex duct (usually black plastic inside and outside with insulation in the center) could have pulled loose and exposed the fiberglass on the inner plastic a flashlight would show yellow or pink fiberglass if this happened. Other than that sealing the fixtures would be the areas to look at if it’s not showing up in other rooms of the house. As I said I am not aware of any issues with such low levels but there may be a stuffy out there that says it is dangerous, asbestos was once thought to be safe along with the Hindenburg.


Can I connect an electronic air cleaner to the 24v terminals of my furnace?

Generally, yes, R and C are the 24 volt and common terminals of the transformer.

However, you have to make sure you do not draw more current than the transformer can handle. These things are usually rated in volt-amps. If your furnace, air handler and air conditioning compressor are marked with their ratings, you can tell how much power you can spare. Don't exceed 80% of the rated capacity of your transformer.

As an alternative, you can mount the transformer that came with your air cleaner in/on your air handler. Locate the existing transformer and you can wire the new one in to the same 120 volt lines.


What's a suitable sealant for the garden slabs in the picture?

It appears that there is grout in place now with some caulking where it's cracked out.  I'm going to guess that these bricks are set in a sand base? If so, then you'll never get the blocks stable enough to keep the grout from cracking.

Have you considered just removing the grout and applying some "paver sand" into the gaps?  That's a lot more forgiving than grout and a lot less trouble to maintain.

Otherwise, you'll probably want to go ahead and re-grout this after removing the old and cracked parts.  It will need to be updated regularly but I think the result will be better than just applying caulk or silicone sealer.


Is it acceptable that the only access to a service panel is through a master bedroom closet?

As long at the panel is not in a bathroom, clothes closet or on a stairway the panel would be ok with the required working space 30" width or width of the panel if wider than 30" and headroom it would be legal if accessible. I realised I did not specifically answer your question. Yes your service panel can be in a room that is accessible and yours is accessible (and not in a prohibited area).


Can I reset Vanity Top onto particle board with residue caulk?

If I understand correctly, you've set a countertop onto a vanity cabinet with silicone, then cut it loose. Some silicone remains on the top edges of the cabinet. You're asking whether you can reset the top with some silicone residue on the cabinet.

Sure.

I'd slice as much caulk off the top of the vanity as possible with a fresh utility knife blade, then set the top just as you originally did. The silicone will bond just fine. There's not much stress on it anyway.

If for some reason that doesn't work, screw some 1x2 stock to the inside of the vanity, oriented horizontally and flush on top. (There may be something in the corners already that you can use.) Run 1-1/4" drywall screws through that into the top. That's standard practice for kitchen tops, etc., where a caulk bond isn't needed.


Floor prep to laying luxury vinyl planks over ceramic tile

The best solution is to do it properly; remove the ceramic tiles, patch/level the floor underneath, and then install the vinyl as per manufacturer's instructions.

If you lay the vinyl over the floor as is, the peaks and valleys from the old glue and grout lines will transfer through the thin vinyl. It likely won`t be significant, but noticeable if a person was looking for it.

Patching the grout lines as is may not allow proper adhesion due to the excess glue.  The patch could come loose, crumbling and/or shifting, and cause a lump in the floor.  The glue and any loose material would need to be removed prior to patching the grout lines.  Depending on the amount of patching required, this may be just as much work as removing the tile.

Side Note:  You mentioned that the vinyl planks you`ve picked are waterproof.  While the planks themselves do not absorb water, the final floor will likely not be waterproof.  If you were to have another flood of the basement, water will seep through the seams in the planks and along the edges.  The floor would have to be removed in order to remove that moisture.


Not all LED's are dimmable.  The box should say if they are dimmable. Usually if they are dimmable, the instructions might say something like dimmable with standard dimmers.  If they are dimmable and you use a regular dimmer they will dim but a standard dimmer will not give you 100% dimming and might go bright to off in half a turn or slide.  Dimmers for LED's have a trim wheel that you can adjust and give you a more balanced dimmer and effect.


OK, so here's what we know about 3 cables
(and can guess about the 4th).  Note that "color coding" is not happening here and the color codes will be a chaotic rainbow, with no consistency whatsoever. This situation is why I own 10 colors of tape.
The only consistent color rule is if neutral is present, it must be on white.  And that's the end of the color rules (aside from stuff about grounds and 3-phase industrial power).
SUPPLY cable and ONWARD cables
Both are usually /2 cables but onward might be /3. The supply cable comes from the power source.  The onward cable chains power onward to the next outlet.  Both of them have the same function and color codes (by necessity, unless they're /3, then all bets are off).

Neutral on White
Always-Hot on black in /2, and ??? in /3.

Spur to the other 3-way switch
This will be a /3 cable by necessity.  Black White Red.   There is no standard whatsoever for colors. Neutral is not present in this cable.  Now, travelers can be identified by the fact that they go to the brass screws on each switch. Both travelers are interchangeable (one is hot and one is not; throwing the switch swaps them).  These are the wire functions:

Traveler 1: color ???
Traveler 2: color ???
Common (could be always-hot; could be switched-hot): color ???

Note how in 3-way switches, colors are completely NOT standardized. At all.  This is why I'm all about the colored tape: but don't bother, we're about to re-define all 3 wires.
Spur to the fan and light
Since both fan and light are controlled by switches here,  we know that there must be 2 switched hots.  By the nature of things there must also be neutral.  So it must be a /3 cable, and must have these wire functions:

Neutral: White
Switched Hot for Light: ???
Switched Hot for Fan: ???

Conventions
Code does not require color choices (except for white and of course grounds).  However, better installers tend to favor certain colors when feasible, and as said I'll "force this along" by remarking with colored tape.  The preferential colors are:

Always-hot: Black
Switched-hot:  Red
Switched-hot (alternate): Blue
3-way travelers: both yellow (that's a Harperism not a wide practice, sadly).

You can't count on that applying here, but you can favor it going forward.
These GE smart switches
The "master" GE smart switch requires 4 wires aside from ground:

Supply hot
Neutral
Switched-hot to the load
Comm/power line to the the "remote" smart switch

The "remote" smart switch NEEDS 2 wires:

Neutral
Comm/power line to the "master" smart switch

So you'll have to put the smart-switch master in the busy box.  As for the smart-switch remote, you'll completely redefine all 3 wires in the 3-way spur cable to be a) Neutral, b) Comm/power line and c) spare (hold black out as a spare so you can use it for always-hot in the future).
That's as much as I can tell you without knowing more about the box wiring.


Adjustable bar hanger -Maximum load 17Kg/50LB -is the load for vertical or horizontal position?

You typically put this horizontally between joists or trusts so you can center an electrical box.  The 50LB load will be pulling down on the bar hanger.

To support an octagonal box between trusts.
Adjustable from 11.5" to 18.5"
Maximum load: 50 Lb (22.70 Kg)
Not intended for ceiling fan


Natural Oak Table Top - Removing accumulated crud without damage

You can safely use a Scotchbrite pad or nylon bristled brush in the direction of the grain; the brush may do a bit better at getting into the pores. By the way, you'll damage the finish long before you damage the wood.

In theory you can rejuvenate oil finishes by reapplying them. In practice manufacturers label wiping varnish and all sorts of other goodies as oil finishes. Bob Flexner has an excellent book on finishing which is well worth a trip to the library if you want all of the gory details on the care and refinishing of furniture. Your table looks to be in nice shape though, so I'd offer two simple suggestions.

Priority one should be to avoid any furniture polish containing silicone, which is most of the popular brands. Silicone is a real nightmare for refinishers because it causes fish eye. Of course the more valuable a piece of furniture is the more likely people are to contaminate it in their efforts to protect it.

Depending on how much use the table gets your best bet is paste wax. It's easy to apply, goes over practically any finish, and typically offers a big improvement in appearance. The downside is that it can require a bit of attention on high-use pieces because it's so soft. You can always try it on a low-visibility area and remove the wax with a solvent if you dislike it.


How to wire a bathroom fan with a timer?

There's no such thing as too many wires between the bathroom switch and the bathroom light/fan/heatlamp/whatever the future may bring. I would run at least 3 hots and a neutral, with 1 hot and 1 neutral being 12ga for a high current device. Even better, install conduit and pull whatever as needed.

I personally hate fans which turn on with the light.  I fear I'll wake others during a 3AM bathroom run.  It also wastes energy by ejecting nice warm/cool air, forcing the HVAC system to work harder.

This forum is not for "shop for you", but there's no problem getting a single switch that turns off the fan some period after it turns off the light.  the fan with a delay. on light+fan, and turns off light and adand continues the fan for a designated period.

There's also no trouble getting rundown timer switches if you want to manually trigger the fan.  However if you also have a heatlamp (commonly put on rundown timers), this will be a confusing UI.

They even make fan controls which detect humidity.  The question is whether they have, um... VOC detection.

Amazon links on SE pay a tiny commission to somebody, possibly me. It biases me toward linking products sold on Amazon.


What subpanel and number of circuit breakers should I install in a detached garage?

You or your contractor have gone about this backwards. The first step is to determine your electrical requirements, including a reasonable amount of future expansion. Then you can size the wire & breaker together to meet those requirements.