How to run ground, for electric supplied by generator and batteries through a inverter

You are the electric utility -- thrice over!

Your configuration, with a generator and an inverter/charger, requires special care as you have not one, not two, but three electrical systems, all isolated from each other and completely off the mains electrical grid.  This is outside the norm for a residence, and requires careful application of the NEC rules for separately derived systems starting in 250.30.

Start with the easy stuff first

The easy part of this all is making sure that all the panelboard (aka load center/electrical panel) cabinets, the inverter's safety earth terminal, and the generator frame are all solidly connected together.  This makes sure you have an effective fault-current path everywhere it's needed as per 250.4(A)(5) and 250.92.  These conductors can be sized as per 250.122 in your case due to 250.102(D) and this rule from 250.32(A)(2):

  A supply-side bonding jumper shall not be required to be
  larger than the derived ungrounded conductors.

Getting down to earth (ground)

You'll need a grounding electrode, of course.  This defaults to the metal-cold-water-pipe electrode (or structural steel, but you don't have that) in 250.30(A)(4), but I'd put another 250.52(A)-compliant one in to protect against plumber-induced losses of grounding, as they can leave your system completely floating which is a problem if lightning strikes nearby.

Since you have multiple separately derived systems, though, this is where things get hairball.  You'll either need to:

Run completely separate grounding electrode conductors from the generator grounding electrode attach point and inverter AC output bonding point to each of your grounding electrode(s).  This is straightforwardly permitted by 250.30(A)(6), but can lead to a proverbial spaghetti bowl of grounding electrode conductors, a minimum of four in your case, all of which must be at least as large as required by 250.66.
Or, run a single grounding electrode bus conductor between all the grounding electrodes and then tap it with 250.66-compliant conductors to feed the various grounding electrode attach points.  This bus conductor must be enormous though, as 250.30(A)(6)(a) requires it to be a minimum of 3/0 copper or 250kcmil aluminum.  That's the same size as a 200A service conductor!

In any case, you'll need to use listed grounding clamps or exothermic welds to make all grounding electrode and grounding electrode bus connections.

Bonding it all together

You'll now need to make sure that your supply bonds are in the correct places, and nothing's cross-wired between your grounds and your neutrals.  This means that you will need to practice good ground bar discipline -- both of your panels must have separate ground and neutral bars, with all the neutrals going to the neutral bar and all the grounds going to the ground bar.  Typical residential-sparky-in-a-hurry slobbering of everything onto one bar will not fly here!

First, the generator in your case is supplying the ground-to-neutral bond for its part of the system.  This means that you must pull the service bond out of the panel for the generator-powered stuff, wherever it might be (on a modern panel, it'll be a green screw in the neutral bar).  You will also need to install a ground bar kit into the panel if one is not present already and transfer all the ground wires to the new ground bar.

Second, thankfully, since you are dealing with a 24V DC system that is derived from a grounded AC system by a rectifier (battery charger), you don't need to bond the DC system to ground (as per 250.162(A) including Exception 2).  I would make sure that any metallic, non-current-carrying parts that may short to the DC system, such as metal battery racks, are bonded to the generator (inverter/charger AC input) system ground, though.

Finally, since your inverter's AC output is floating, you'll need to bond it to ground somewhere as per 250.20(B) point 1.  This can either be at the inverter with a jumper from the inverter output to both the inverter safety ground terminal and the grounding electrode conductors for the inverter system, or at the panelboard using the green screw or link (i.e. configuring the inverter-circuits panelboard as service equipment) as well as terminating the grounding electrode conductors onto the panelboard ground bar instead of the inverter bonding jumper.


Are these integrated diagonal wall braces structurally important?

Sometimes framing of a short internal wall that TEE's into an exterior wall is braced that way if the exterior wall is:

The exterior wall extends a long distance on either side of the TEE
And the exterior wall is parallel to ceiling joists and floor joists
And has a high gable end wall above this area.

Intention was to eliminate a lot of flex in the exterior wall both during construction and when there is possibility of large gusty wind loads on the wall. You will see less of this with much construction moving toward 2x6 studding for exterior walls. Metal X banding nailed to the face of the studs is also a better way to achieve this result.

Repeating from Isherwood. Make sure to put double stud at the left and right side of your opening. A single 2x4 is just not stiff enough and you will really appreciate it being there when you come to install door casing or trim.


Should I replace my main water valve with a SharkBite shut off valve?

Why not just repack the valve stem?  It's cheaper, easier, and faster.

PS: I am sure the sharkbite valve would be fine.


4 prong dryer cord connected to a new 4 prong wall outlet, the old wall outlet was a 3 prong with only 3 wires. now the dryer won't heat but works

It's two separate problems, based on your description.

One leg of "hot" not connected

Now I must admit, I leapt to the assumption that you replaced a large 3-prong NEMA 10 socket with a 4-prong NEMA 14, and that the previous socket was wired correctly (as correctly as a NEMA 10 can be).

The "dryer spins, no heat" symptom indicates that neutral is connected (to something), the right one of the two hots is connected, but the other hot is not connected.  So I would carefully check the wiring connections at the socket.  Also if your are able, check that there is 120V between each hot and neutral.

Now, there is one other place for this to go wrong, but it has nothing to do with installing a dryer.  Sometimes a very clever person replaces the wide 2-pole dryer breaker that takes 2 spaces, with a "double-stuff" breaker that takes one space.  That doesn't work, it will test out 120V on each hot lead, but they are the same pole, not opposing, so 0V between them instead of 240V. They need a quadplex.

The missing ground

Moving to a NEMA 14 style connector is a leap forward for safety, because the old NEMA 10 came with officially approved instructions to bootleg ground from neutral.  The problem with bootlegging is, if anything went wrong with the neutral wire, It would definitely, positively, electrify the chassis of the dryer.

As you have wired this, that won't happen.  However, if the dryer develops a certain type of ground fault, that can electrify the chassis of the dryer. Which is why we want to see a real ground there.

Usually people say "oh, noes, that means running a new cable from the panel"... Actually, no.  You can retrofit just a ground wire.  And you don't need to go back to the service panel, any of these will suffice:

a large appliance or junction box that has #10 AWG or larger ground wire going back to the panel
any junction box connected with non-flexible metal conduit back to the panel
anywhere along the grounding electrode system, the bare metal wires going from your main panel to your ground pipes or rods


How should I compute the clear span of a purlin in a roofing system?

You’re thinking of the “tributary area” on a beam.

Just take half the distance to the next support and that is your “load” (live and dead load) on the beam. They don’t have to be uniformly spaced.


Is this normal

No, it is normal to have an electric oven on a separate radial circuit with its own MCB in the consumer unit. For example a dedicated 32A "Cooker" circuit.

Ovens are normally hardwired through a dual-pole isolating switch adjacent to the oven.

  and/or safe?

It is safe so long as the installer calculated the loading on the downstairs ring circuit. There are formula to be used which take into account the type of appliances, the number of sockets and the conductor sizes. (see Diversity and Demand below for load calculations with examples)

The REALISTISK Oven has a total rating of 2.7 kW, which is only slightly more than a typical electric kettle. It is also less than 13A on a 230V circuit, so won't be a problem for the actual socket, 13A fused plug and cable. However you obviously can't have all four heating elements on, from cold, at the same time (top, bottom, fan & grill).

  it seems to me that it would still be best to isolate the oven from the general plug socket circuit

I believe that would be normal practise.

Useful links

Radial circuits for socket outlets, cookers, shower and many other items, John Ward. (11:00)
Maximum Diversity and Demand, John Ward. (16:10)


Applying urethane to table: brush or pad?

well i just got done with staining and polyurethane a few projects..
i was supposed to sand smooth and coat but i just hit it with 60grit and brushed it on.
there are stain/poly type products that are applied with one step..


Are you testing the receptacle on the top half?
The end the red wire goes to of the receptacle?
It looks like you have it wired correctly the bottom receptacle will be always hot (the end with the 3 blacks) and the top will be controlled by the switch.
That is how you have it wired and that part of it is hot all the time I believe you are checking the wrong side because it is wired correctly.
Now for the critique, although a back and side may be listed for 3 wires the wrap is 2/3 to 3/4 around the screw. A better method would be to add a wire nut and short piece of wire so the 3 wires are connected securely and only 1 wire is under the screw


Why is there so much price disparity for a house painting job?

There are many reasons why a job would cost the contractor more or less, which obviously affects the bid price:

Time spent ensuring an excellent application of the finish
Time spent being careful around plants, yard furnishings, wall features, etc.
Special equipment needs unique to your project
Insurance coverage
Employee salaries
Satisfaction guarantee
Finish warranty

More significant, though, is the level of demand for a particular contractor's work:

Brand awareness and familiarity
Reputation
Marketing prowess

The latter group of factors probably has more impact. A company that has a few dozen or a few hundred employees and is a top contender in the yellow pages will get more calls. Therefore, they can charge more. A little one-man operation may have to scratch harder for jobs, and therefore is willing to undercut the competition.

The inverse can also be true. A small shop with a reputation for excellence can develop an outsized reputation that puts them in demand greater than their ability to fulfill. Now they can name their price and walk away from jobs they don't want. This isn't unique to painters, of course. It's the fundamental law of commerce.

I'd select the lowest bid from a contractor that meets your standards for reputation, personal demeanor, etc. If a guy acts like a goof and slobbers tobacco juice on your driveway, that's a red flag.

Also note that 15 years probably isn't a reasonable expectation for the life of paint over wood. Even the best paint will fade significantly in that time, and the nature of wood means that the bond will be broken down by expansion and contraction, warpage, etc. Five to eight years is probably more appropriate.


I don't think your friend's suggestion is bad, but I'd still want to be sure the caulk extended all the way to the exposed surface of the siding.  Better not to let water get into the crack at all than to let it get in and stuck between siding and trim but blocked from penetrating further by caulk.

Why?

Because in winter, water that's in the crack will freeze, expand, and make bigger cracks.  Water on the surface can do no harm.


How to safely dig a 12 inch diameter hole with an 8 inch auger

You have the general idea, but whether this is successful depends on several things, including soil type, the presence of rocks, and the weight and rigidity of the boring equipment. In any event, expect to get a good upper-body workout.

I'd bore a hole with a 2" offset, perpendicular to the fence run, then shift the equipment 4" and bore again, creating an oblong bore. You'll still have to clear it by hand as some material will fall back into the original bore cavity. You could try a third bore, but I doubt the equipment will be rigid enough to accomplish much.

You'll end up with a hole that's tapered to the bottom, but you should be able to get enough concrete around the top to secure the posts.


How best can I seal up an old coal door?

As you already know there is water getting into there, if you only seal up the inside to make it look better you will have water collecting between the door and your seal. You don't want a pool installed in your wall.

To do this properly you really do need to excavate the outside remove the door and metal frame (if there is a steel load bearing piece across the top I'd recommend leaving that in and if there is a rain catch on the outside that could be left, but it doesn't look like there's either from the pictures). Patch the hole with material that functionally matches the foundation wall. Water seal the patched area then once it is dry back fill where you excavated. It would be good to make that area right against the seal a little higher grade when you fill it in than the area around it to help the water drain away and reduce infiltration.


Laminate is usually held on with contact cement similar to this

This type of adhesive is spread on both surfaces to be joined, allowed to dry and then pressed together. Pressing firmly with a small wooden roller (or a rolling pin) helps make the bond tight.

It is important to make sure the parts are perfectly aligned before the surfaces touch because they cannot be moved once they contact. This is often done by placing a piece of very smooth paper between the two surfaces while aligning, then sliding it out.

If the band is already off along much of its length, it is better to remove it fully to make it easier to apply the glue. Be careful when prying off to make sure that it does not crack. if it does not come off easily, wedge it away from the base with a pencil or something similar (a chopstick) to give you room to get the glue on both surfaces. Again, be sure to let the glue dry before joining. How long it needs to dry will be explained on the packaging.

With contact cement, no clamping is needed, because it achieves full strength almost immediately.


The drain will unscrew... you might need a drain key (or expanding tub drain remover). Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_0vYme1Q88

Or you might be able to grab it with a pair of channel locks:

But if you don't care about it any more then you could use a dremel tool to cut a notch in it so that you can use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to unscrew it.


Do subfloors in bathrooms require any special sealant or moisture barrier prior to adding standard floor covering (like tile)?

I think a quality bathroom installation includes waterproofing and an isolation membrane. I'm a fan of Schluter's Ditra underlayment, but there are other good options out there. A typical installation has 1/4" backer board glued down with thinset and screwed down, the isolation membrane installed with thinset (and taped if necessary), and then the tile installed on top of that. A membrane like Ditra serves both as waterproofing and as an isolation membrane; it lets the subfloor move slightly without transferring the movement to the tile, preventing cracking. Make sure to read the installation instructions (found on the manufacturer's website) carefully; with Ditra, for example, you use latex-modified thinset in some cases and normal thinset in others.


Will I notice a pressure drop going from 1/2" pex to 3/4" CPVC then to 1/2" CPVC?

It truly will not be as efficient as 2 separate lines feeding each fixture, or 3 separate lines for 3 fixtures.... You will only notice a pressure drop when both fixtures on the same branch are used at the same time. You will see the difference, it may not be drastic enough to need to gut what ever is in the way to get it run  everywhere. If I remember right, Maniblock only has 1/2" connectors?


How to make 1/4 inch beveled edge on unfinished walnut countertop

The obvious first choice would be a router, as it would do this with precision and ease, but can be expensive. If you were careful, marked, measured and were patient you could use a jack plane for this.


Are there diamond cup grinder wheels that create a coarse, no slip concrete surface?

Short answer: no, at least if used as intended.

There are some cups and disks that are extremely coarse; they look like a few pebbles of abrasive stuck in random spots.  But they just remove more material faster, and still leave a surface smoother than would be helpful for your purpose.  The problem is the rotation and speed.  The abrasive gets at the whole surface with just a little motion of the grinder.

You could do something different with a coarse cup.  Hold the grinder in one spot and turn it on for just a second or so.  It will grind a circle in that spot.  Move the grinder to another spot and repeat.  The idea is to cover the concrete with a pattern of circles.  They don't need to be deep, maybe on the order of 1/16".

Another technique is to use a circular saw with a diamond cutting wheel.  Adjust the blade guide so the cutting depth is very shallow (around 1/16"), and use a guide to make straight grooves at controlled locations.  Grooves about 1" apart should be enough.

You could also try the opposite approach; add instead of remove.  Bond a thin layer on top with a broomed finish (you would need material with high bonding strength designed for this purpose).  There are also surface finishes that contain some coarse grit for traction.  Or you can buy non-slip tape sold for this purpose.  It is a rugged tape with a gritty surface and a serious adhesive.  You put down strips about 9" apart.


How do I prevent ice stalagmites from building up on the furnace exhaust?

Attempt No.1

Acquire small plastic container.
Drill small holes around base to allow water to flow out.
Fill with salt.
Place under exhaust vent.
Wait and see what happens.

I'm hoping the moisture in the exhaust will drip into the container of salt, and then run out carrying salt with it.  This might have the added benefit of dispersing salt to the nearby area, thereby preventing snow and ice from forming in the vicinity.

The down side is that instead of an ice stalagmite, I will have a plastic bucket in the driveway which will get in the way while shoveling/snow blowing.


What type of drill bit should I use for pilot holes?

Drilling pilot holes is needed when the screws are large or it is on finished wood.
For example a #6 or #8 wood screw into a stud I probably would not drill a pilot into fur but oak studs that I have found in old Victorian era homes the screw would snap off if no pilot was drilled. The same is true with larger 1/4” lag bolts and screws, but I do start using pilot holes for studs at 1/4”.
To answer your question.
How do I size the pilot?
I hold the drill behind the screw and if I see the drill is wider than the body (not the threads) it is too large. I only want the pilot to take the amount out that is solid as this will reduce splitting. I do the same on finish work but wood screws the last 1/3 of the screw is not threaded. I want that pilot the size of the body where it is threaded.
This is a rule of thumb, sometimes on very soft wood a smaller drill is appropriate. Where the wood is hard like 100 year old oak, a larger bit will be needed. The last part is, if it is structural smaller is usually best but decorative larger again. This is to provide a pin without splitting.
I have been sizing wood screws like this since my dad taught me this over 50 years ago and it has served me well.


Is it safe to use an outdoor receptacle that isn't GFCI-protected?

You have asked the question in a way that indicates you are in North America. As such, you should consult the relevant electrical code in your area as to whether ground-fault protection is required for outdoor accessories.

In terms of safety, non-GFCI outdoor accessories are not inherently unsafe, however it may be a legal requirement for new installations, and with good reason. Environmental factors make the risk of physical damage and water ingress greater, increasing the danger of electric shock. A GFCI device may reduce the danger posed, but as has been mentioned, you may already have GFCI protection before the outlet itself.

If not, a like-for-like replacement of the outlet with a suitable GFCI version should be a simple job, but be aware they take up more depth in the mounting box. Investigate the existing outlet before purchasing a new product.

Similarly, you may be able to use a power block with a GFCI-protected plug. These are bulky, like you might see on a hairdryer, and would not be suitable for leaving connected, which may be your intention.

If you do purchase a GFCI outlet, be sure it is also weather resistant and consider ingress protection by way of a waterproof mounting box if the existing outlet is not mounted in such, like this:


Floor sagging between joist- please help

The given parameters are that the floor joists and the flooring are good, but the sub-floor has "received significant damage." The solution then, is to replace the sub-floor. Don't assume that removing the existing hardwood floor will destroy it. Re-using old hardwood flooring is common. It reads like the hardwood and the sub-floor have already separated. With a 100 year old home, there probably isn't any glue (construction adhesive) to deal with, just nails that have lost their hold. An added benifit is that after removing the bad sub-floor, you could shim up under the replacement to correct the leveling issue.
A few floor boards could be damaged during the removal. And the removed hardwood needs to be prepped before re-installation. But those issues are part of a good floor restoration project. With a bad sub-floor, it is hard to imagine a practical or quality alternative.


Is the subpanel installation in a detached garage correctly done?

So, you have 8 gauge wire potentially subject to a fault current of up to 200 amps without anything tripping. You also have the neutral and ground bonded in a sub-panel (despite running separate neutral and ground wires to it, so bonding in the sub-panel is a puzzling choice in itself, as well as being a violation.) [or else possibly you have written unclearly about what you have done with the ground and neutral?]

Wrong. Just....wrong.

Pull two breakers, insert a 50 A breaker, and move the 15A circuits to the sub. And unbond/isolate the neutral and ground in the sub. Get a different/larger sub-panel if you need additional circuits (or give a long hard look at a complete panel replacement with adequate spaces in the main panel - not all that expensive if the incoming service is adequate, but attached to a panel with few spaces.)

If your panel is listed for them breakers with two separate 15A circuits in a single space breaker are another option to make space.


Skip the studs - there's nothing structural here.

Use (roughly) 9-10 cm of rigid foam insulation and 1-2 cm of plasterboard/drywall or plaster, depending on internal finish of the rest of the room.
Glue the foam in place with a construction adhesive meant to work with the type of foam you get (should come in a caulking tube.)
Use some canned polyurethane spray foam ("minimally expanding" type)
to fill in the edges around the rigid foam sheet, allow it to cure,
trim back any excess, and finish.


Replacing 12V halogen spotlights with MR16 dimmable LEDs in my lounge

You would be better off getting a 12V DC driver/power supply, and then using a DC 12V PWM dimmer between the power supply and LEDs.

The obvious thing to do is use a 120VAC dimmer driving the 120V->12V power supply. To begin with, AC dimmers use one of several rather awkward schemes. But even more is "lost in translation" in any 120V-12V power supply.  You are simply better off making 12VDC, and then dimming that.


Are these brown finger-like things on the outside of my house caused by termites?

Those are definitely termite tubes. Those are the exploratory tubes that termites make when they come out of the soil and are exposed to air and light. They build the tubes out of dirt and their feces to protect them when out of the ground. Definitely termite tunnels. These are common on the side of a house, or inside a crawl space going up foundation walls.

DIY is definitely an option - a MUCH cheaper option. It's really simply in terms of knowing what to do, the hard part is the digging and drilling, but it's worth it when you know how much you will save. Read this article on my site to learn how to do it yourself: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/how-to-perform-termite-treatment-a-87.html


How dangerous are these cracking tiles if they contain asbestos?

Asbestos is only dangerous when it becomes airborne, which happens when  whatever contains it is turned into dust. For example it would be a very bad idea to remove these tiles by breaking them into bits with a rotary hammer, and even worse to cut them with a diamond disc grinder. The mortar/glue below may also contain asbestos fiber as reinforcement.

However in their current state, they are not dangerous, as the asbestos fibers won't become airborne.

If the building contains asbestos though, you might want to check the fireproofing and/or insulation. These are the most dangerous, as they are spray-on fibers and tend to degrade with time, releasing the asbestos into the air.


How do you add a separate ground back to panel on 2 wire ungrounded outlet?

What is the proper way to do this?

From the 2017 National Electrical Code:

  (C) Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following:
  (1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50
  (2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor
  (3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates
  (4) An equipment grounding conductor that is part of another branch circuit that originates from the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates
  (5) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor within the service equipment enclosure
  (6) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure

  Does the wire need to follow the same path as the ungrounded 2 wire path?

No, it isn't required but if it did that would be preferable.

  How would the ground enter the junction box?

It could be fished into another opening with a cable clamp.

  How is it secured?

To the grounding-type-receptacle's ground lug and to the box, if it is metal, by means of a 10-32 ground screw.

There are many ways to accomplish this. These are the preferred methods of the trade but there are other acceptable ways.

Good luck!


"Local Amendments" to the NEC - What is meant by this term?

Building codes (including the NEC and many others covering a variety of subjects) are usually written by independent organizations who specialize in the subject.

Local laws are passed by governments. Since local politicians are generally not electricians / structural engineers / fire marshals etc, they "adopt" the 3rd party codes by requiring all local construction to comply with them. But sometimes for various reasons the government wants to make additional requirements or changes, e.g. to take into account local conditions, additional safety, historical reasons, etc. They can change the code in any way they want, maybe prohibiting something they feel is risky or allowing something that would normally be prohibited. Or maybe they just change the wording or definitions a bit to clarify or be consistent with other local laws.

In the USA, building codes are often selected by state government, although local cities and counties may have additional rules they require. Note that every state has their own building codes, which is why you must look up the rules for your specific location. Even states that adopt the NEC (which is most of them, but not all) may use different versions. E.g. here is the current NEC adoption, as of September 1 2015:

The changes themselves can be minor and pedantic or major. For an example, here is the Massachusetts electrical code. Note that it starts by saying the code is the 2014 National Electrical Code, with a number of changes.


New junction box, eh?  First, reinstall all cables in the junction box.

That trick with the ground wire wrapped around the sheath appears to be using the cable clamp to ground to the metal box.  Note the metal box will have a #10-32 tapped hole intended for a ground screw, and you can put a pigtail on that to ground anything else.

Now, identify which cable goes to the switch.   Mark its white wire with black tape, and its black wire with red tape.

Also mark the black wire from the new lamp with red tape.

Now you join similar colors: red to red, black to black, white to white, bare/green to bare/green.


3-socket replacement extension cord end?

This is one of the places where code and consumer parts don't match. I have tried in several cases to make code approved triplex adapters , even as a licensed electrician, I cannot do it legally , even with listed parts, I have asked several major mfg of cord caps for a way many years ago, because what you ask is reasonable, but in my state there is no way to do it because there are no listed "cord caps" with 3 outlets but it would make them $ if there were in my opinion. At this time I have not found a listed model to do what we both and many others want.


How can I repair a tiny puncture in leather?

Use a toothpick to push a small square or circle of backer fabric through the hole to the back of the leather. Choose something thin but strong and that has a little give - silk is often used but not everyone has a tiny bit of silk in their sewing basket. This gives some support for step 2.
Use same toothpick to pick up a small dab of flexible, clear fabric glue through the hole to the backer fabric behind.
The use a spoon to push the leather onto the fabric backer and rub it down to ensure the glue is well and good squished behind and around the hole, and that there are no edges to the tear that might catch again. If you can push the leather together you can make the hole practically invisible. No glue should be visible from the outside except the tiniest amount inside the seam itself.


Whats the cheapest but strongest 4x8 I can use while only supporting the ends lengthwise of the board?

There is no magic flat material that will have that kind of strength, short of some sort of honeycombed steel or carbon fiber, and I'm sure you don't have the budget for that.
Maybe you could use scaffolding planks, but again, budget.
You'll need to frame that out with joists
And probably the cheapest will be conventional wood framing.
Since the critical dimension will be across the long length, you frame it out with 8 foot long "2x6" dimensional lumber oriented vertically for span strength.  I would follow the 16" spacing rule (though it will really be 15.5" center-center spacing), so that will be four 2x6 joists.   Two hug the edges of the plywood and two are spaced evenly between.
Now, we need something to prevent the joists from leaning sideways.  So some more 2x6 spacers go between the joists, wherever convenient.
Now, myself, I would screw the plywood to the joists with deck screws.  About every foot should suffice. You can nail it if you really want to, but you'll have an easier time disassembling the wood for reuse if you use screws.
The whole package will be 5.25" + the thickness of the plywood. So 3/4" plywood = 6" total height.


3-way switch replacement mystery: can I solve it without a meter?

Yeah, you had the right idea about screw color, but worrying about physical position was a dead-end. There's no standard. Every manufacturer changes the screw positions on every model every week.
Don't sweat the differing wire colors.  Wire colors are also completely meaningless in 3-ways since all 3 wires are often hot.   The three colors are due to the limitations of using multi-wire cable.  In conduit, when I pick the colors, travelers are the 2 yellow wires.  There's no Code requirement that "travelers must be color X and color Y" because there are other Code requirements that certain other wires must be certain colors.
The 2 travelers can be determined by the fact that they are always in the same cable.
If all 3 wires are in the same cable, then look for one wire that is hot at all times regardless of the position of the other 3-way - that is common.
If that is not present, then look for the two wires that change hotness when the other 3-way is thrown - those are travelers.
I'm a big believer in marking travelers both with yellow tape. There is no need to distinguish 2 travelers from each other.  But 2 yellows in a box is distinctive.


Can I run a 120v/15amp 120 watt Hard Wire towel rack connection to the existing GFCI within the same bathroom

Yes, the towel rack can be on a circuit with receptacles

Because it will amount to less than 50%  of total circuit capacity.  You cannot have receptacles on a circuit where more than half is provisioned (reserved) for fixed loads.

This heater has a nameplate of 120 watts, which is 1 amps.  Now, normally a heater is defined as a continuous load.  So we must provision 125% of that, or 150 watts (1.25 amps).*

The capacity of a 15A circuit is 1800W (half is 900W). The capacity of a 20A circuit is 2400W (half is 1200W).  Even with the 125% derate, this device is nowhere near half.

Therefore it can share the circuit with other fixed loads and receptacles, as long as all the fixed loads together total less than half circuit capacity.

* This 125% is exactly the same thing as the "80% derate" you hear about for continuous loads, just we're applying it to the load instead of the circuit. We must do it this way because it would mix with other loads that are not continuous.


Testing cabinet screw heads for electrical current

You could use a non-contact voltage tester.
If you haven't hung the cabinets yet, check if your stud finder has a function for identifying electrical wiring.
A french cleat might help you hang the cabinets while avoiding any inconveniently-placed wiring within the wall.  Youtube has some great how-to videos on french cleat cabinet installation.


Is my NEMA 14-30R to NEMA L6-30R adapter safe?

Your adapter is probably safe. However, I would have used a 3 conductor cable instead of a 4 conductor cable; that way there is no neutral to cap.

Another option would be to cut the plug off the end of the other piece of equipment and wire on the 14-30P.

A third option would be to wire up an 14-30 receptacle right next to the existing L6-30 receptacle, using the same circuit. As long as you are using only the kiln or the other equipment and not both at the same time, that's fine. If you really wanted to prevent both from operating at the same time, you could get a transfer switch, but that's probably overkill.


What came off is the finish (urethane, polyurethane, or varnish), not the wood.

If left alone, it will absorb dirt, moisture and darken.

I would try a wipe on polyurethane and apply it with a q-tip. Your finish looks like gloss, so I would try that level of sheen. You can always dull it a bit with fine steel wool.

You should try to remove the rubber stain first. That can be done with a cleaner, such as Simple Green or Fantastik type cleaners.


Can I use a shop-vac for dust collection in a workshop?

Yep. You can use shop vacs for this (albeit you might need some adapter hoses). A neat thing to get is a power switch that can switch on another appliance one the first is turned on. The idea is you plug your saw and your shopvac into it, and when you power on the saw, the shopvac powers on at the same time:

http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-SCG5-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000L9FQUO


Can I notch roof posts to install deck beams?

Notch the support columns? 2x6's for joists when 2x8's fit? Yeah um, stay away from those  people. Concrete would be best overall since it's impervious to most everything from water rot, to termites to air leaks.

With concrete you'd want to cinder block the perimeter, throw down 4"s of rigid foam insulation & pour a proper 4" thick slab on top of the insulation. However, there's no problem with wood either & that would be much more DIY-friendly.

With wood you'd do 2x8's everywhere & would box-around the support beams, definitely do not notch the supports. 2" rigid insulation would go on the bottom & on the perimeter frame, then fiberglass batts can fill in the rest.


How do I stop the toilet seat from continuously sliding to the right every time it is used?

Standard toilets in my area tighten from below, with a thumb-turn nut located between the tank and bowl. You can only see and access the nuts from the bottom looking up.
That being said, there are many different types of toilets and this may not apply to yours.


Sure.  Low voltage systems have a lot of versatility.  You can put a battery on them, so they stay up when the power fails.  You can add solar panels, so they stay up in long outages. Many routers and DSL/cable modems actually want 12VDC (the network stays up because the central office has batteries/generators).  It's easy to charge phones and tablets from 12VDC.  LED lighting is not a problem at either 12VDC or 24VDC (light strips and "bulbs" intended for RVs.)

For heat, furnace controls can be managed either by switch-mode synthesizing 24VAC or finding components happy to run on 24VDC, including smart thermostats.  Or Empire-style furnaces don't need any electricity at all, and this can be a backup furnace, with a plan to close off parts of the house it can't heat.  A refrigerator could be modified so its 120VAC inverter only runs when there's a cooling call.  A simple gas stove/oven doesn't need electricity either.  You could make a home fully functional in power outages, complete with internet and media streaming.

That pretty much describes my next house.

However, as you may know, NEC prohibits low voltage wiring in the same conduits and boxes as 120/240V unless the boxes are subdivided with approved dividers. Non-conductive fiber-optic is OK.  Also you are not allowed to hang "other stuff" on the outside of 120/240V power conduit, raceways, busways etc.


My Acacia dining table starting to show some huge splits or cracks

There's generally greater success with making it a feature than trying to hide it.

Clamping it together and gluing will generally fail unless it's also rehydrated to the level it was made at first, and then kept that way. So if you live with the air you have, not going to fly unless you buy locally made furniture or avoid solid wood in preference to veneers over plywood or MDF.

While you can fill with wood, or leave it open (first putting in butterfly keys to try to limit further movement) one of the more visually appealing methods is to use a "crushed stone inlay" (sometimes the stone is really plastic, which, since the epoxy holding the stone in is plastic, is not that huge of a deal if you like the way it looks.) Simply using colored (often black) epoxy is anoter stylistic option.

Turquoise in mesquite cracks is probably the most common example of this.

I also know woodworkers who fill voids or make features by casting pewter directly into wood (it melts at a low enough temperature that this works.)


why doesn't my washing machine spin when it's full of water?

Are you sure it's not doing exactly what it's supposed to do? It's not supposed to spin during the wash part of the cycle. When it's full of water it's supposed to agitate.  I don't have a Whirlpool washer, so I don't know exactly how yours agitates, but usually this means it turns back and forth, a little one way, a little the other. Once the wash part of the cycle is done it should drain, then spin. Then it will refill and go through the same routine to rinse.


How can I change the bulbs in this light fixture?

Often times the lower round spindle piece of the lamp will screw off. Then the lower metal parts can be lowered down along with the glass pieces to permit access to the bulbs.


One does not have to resort to an expensive internet capable device to enjoy the money savings of a controlled water heater. There are a number of mechanical electrical timers which would serve the intended purpose.

Prior to installing a solar water heater panel on the roof, our house was equipped with a water heater timer rated to 220v which had multiple trigger attachments for on and off. A large diameter clock dial to cover seven days provided the reference surface to which the triggers attached.

An internet article suggests that this type of device can save money. I know from experience that it worked for us. Sporadic use of hot water in a small household gains the most, especially if you can block the times you need hot water and apply those to the timer disk.

Image courtesy of Home Depot.

I clearly have to read more thoroughly before answering!

Take a look at the site that obviously sells a specific product:

Gas water heater timers!

It appears to serve as a gas flow control device. Under one hundred dollars US and there may be other manufacturers/dealers from which to choose.


How can I remove scratches from mat plastic?

its kind or hard to tell from the photo, but this looks like haircell finish, not matte.  its best identified by little swirly bumps, and is a really common finish on many plastic products (ironically for its ability to hide scratches).

if its haircell, there is not real way to remove it short of hours and hours of mechanical burnishing with burnishing rifflers, and they will cost you a fortune if you don't own them already.  you also have to be able to actually do the work, and its an art form.

if its matte finish plastic, the best compromise will be sand the area smooth, and then to about an .25 micron finish (approx 400 grit wetsand).  then tape off the whole area and beadblast with glass bead.  you will have to experiment with different blasting media to get the finish you want.

either way, its probably cheaper to just replace the piece altogether, or have a new one fabricated.


Lawnmower is not starting and is now leaking gas

Once you fix the carburetor leak, try to start it. Common problems are:

air filter dirty- remove the air filter element and replace it or clean it thoroughly.
carburetor jets plugged- you said you "cleaned" the carb, but did you completely disassemble and make sure the jets were free of gummy varnish and residue?
old fuel- you state that fuel is "1-6 months old", 6 months is too old. You should drain all the fuel and replace with fresh.

Gasoline in most areas now contains a percentage of ethanol (ethyl alcohol) which is bad for older fuel lines and other components. You do not say how old your mower is, but you should inspect and replace any fuel lines that feel soft or gummy. Also, drain and clean your fuel tank and lines, flush with fresh fuel. Ethanol tends to absorb water from the air which will settle at the bottom of your fuel tank over time. You should try to use only fresh fuel (no older than 3 months) in your mower.


Smallest (laser) holes in hardware stores for eclipse viewing

There are plenty of small drill bits available out there. Can you just drill something yourself? That way, you could be sure to drill something that was the right size/configuration for whatever your mount will be.


Is there such a thing as a backless junction box/conduit fitting?

Try using an 11b extension ring or a 1900 extension ring.  Actually made to deepen a junction box, but should work for this application.


Garbage Disposal - Water Shoots Up Non-Disposal Side

Replace that 4 way junction with two wyes offset from each other (you might drop the disposal trap a few inches to achieve this) and extend the aav arm as high as possible.
The pressure from the disposal may be forcing the aav shut, and between the poor configuration of the hub and the resultant lack of venting the opposite sink is the path of least resistance.
Yes you will have to chop that monster out.  If you can't configure two offset wyes at least get a double wye hub and raise the aav.


How about dropping the cover at the top of the fan and if the neutrals are all connected together (suggesting a single supply)
- disconnect the fan wire from whatever it's connected to and reconnect to whatever the lamp is connected to.
- Cap off the wire(s) you disconnected from the fan wire.
now turning on the light will turn on the fan.


It's a drag, but it sounds like you already know what you have to do: peel off everything that peels off easily. No use painting over an unstable substrate; the new paint will just peel off too and you'll have to start over. Might as well do it right the first time.


How to install vent cap over cement pipe?

That flue pipe looks like "Transite" pipe which was used on some gas only appliances before about 1960. When I got into the heating business in the late 1960's nobody was still using it. There were better alternatives. If it is transite, it probably contains asbestos. I don't know of any caps available for use on this product. You could take a standard 6" cap and slit the bottom connection in about 6 sections and bend the slit pieces inward and use a large hose clamp to hold the cap to the old pipe. You could "GOOGLE" transite to learn about this pipe. Hope this helps.


Combining Circuits to have common powerline

The only situation I can think of where this might be an issue is if either or both of these circuits you want to combine is/are part of other multiwire branch circuits, meaning their neutral is shared with another circuit's neutral. If they both have their own exclusive neutrals or are already sharing a neutral in a mutual multiwire branch circuit it shouldn't be an issue.

Oh, one other thing just occurred to me. You mentioned a basement wall outlet, but didn't mention whether the guest rooms are also in the basement. In any case, if the basement circuit happens to be protected with a GFCI breaker, and/or the guest rooms are protected with an arc-fault breaker you could have issues. Current NEC codes require arc-fault protection in bedrooms (as well as many other living spaces) and gfci protection for outlets in unfinished basement spaces. You might have an issue there. If only one of those I've mentioned is the case, be sure to combine the neutrals as well by pigtailing them together into the return lug on the breaker. And be sure not to circumvent the NEC's safety rules for either type of location. There is a dual-purpose AFCI-GFCI type of breaker manufactured to take care of both at once, but they are around $200 where I live.


How can I attach a metal soap dish to tile?

My approach (depending on the mating surface available, shape, etc.) would be to use pure "clear" silicone along with a bit of foam tape.

Cut a small piece of foam tape to act as a temporary anchor while the silicone sets. Place it in the center of the soap dish back panel in a location that allows you to apply a bead of silicone entirely around it (to effectively seal it in).

Once the silicone is applied to the back of the dish, stick the dish to the wall and press firmly. Wipe any extra sealant from the wall and dish.

Optionally, once the silicone sets (2-4 hours should do), run a small bead around the dish to seal it further and improve appearance.


Can I build an electrical pole structure to hold a power wire into my property?

Check with your utility to see if they have a program to bury your service line.  My company (FPL) has a program where they will give you the conduit to bury along with instructions.  Once everything is set up and meets their standards, they will bring the lines down the pole for you.  There is a fee, of course.  For FPL in my area, it would cost around $580 plus the cost of an electrician (and permits) you must hire to rearrange the meter.


Can I raise an A/C Unit and platform up maybe 5 inches without disconnecting anything?

This is such a bad idea. One of the worse sounds I have experienced is refrigerant hissing out through a pipe in a condensing unit. I tried to move a condensing unit just a inch or two so I could open up the disconnect switch to the unit to replace a contactor. The motion was enough to break the brazed connection and out came the Freon.
In addition to the refrigerant, you also have your electric supply line and a possible ground to worry about.
If you are dead set on doing this and can't wait until you replace the condensing unit as Jim Steward suggests, get an AC guy out there to remove and save your refrigerant. Then do your lifting and when done, have your refrigerant pumped back into your system.


The GFCI receptacle has power on the LINE side, and that is where the status lights are powered from.  The GFCI is in tripped mode, which means no power comes through to the LOAD side, which includes the sockets on the face of the GFCI and anything attached to the LOAD screws.

Troubleshooting the GFCI

First, it's rarely the GFCI. But let's exclude it anyway.  To do this, we must isolate the GFCI.  That means we must remove all wires from the LOAD terminals of the GFCI - all of them, don't go thinking you can leave neutral.

Now, with absolutely nothing on LOAD, the GFCI should run through its paces.  It should reset, and Test should trip it.  The magic 8-ball tester's GFCI function should also trip it if it is grounded (otherwise it's supposed to not trip, don't try to modify the GFCI's wiring so it does).

Does the GFCI refuse to behave with nothing plugged in and nothing on LOAD? Then it is the GFCI.  Otherwise, it is not, and never was.

If the GFCI isn't bad, the downline wiring is

People have a dreadful habit of using the LOAD terminals merely as extra screws to put on more wires.  Never do this.  If you don't  understand what LOAD actually does, don't  use it.  If you don't actually intend to protect the downline, don't use it.   Move those wires to LINE and leave the warning tape on LOAD.

However, it is a fact that your downline wiring has a problem.  Moving it to LINE would mask that problem.  So you may want to leave it on LOAD and actually fix the problem.

To start, unplug everything plugged into that part of the circuit.  If that solves it, then an appliance has a ground fault. Plug them into kitchen GFCIs one at a time until you find the one tripping GFCIs.
it may be a wiring problem where a wire (possibly neutral) is faulting to ground.  That can happen in crowded boxes where a ground wire kisses a neutral terminal.   Or in metal boxes where the receptacle or switch is pressing against the side of the box.
it may be mis-wiring, typically with shared/borrowed neutrals, or one of several mistakes that can happen when a switch is in the same box with the GFCI.  If this is the first time installing a GFCI here, this is likely the case.


Replacing old doorbell transformer - wiring

The old transformer has identical wire colors for hot and neutral. The new one differentiates them.
To connect the new transformer, connect the black wire from the new one to the same black wire where your old transformer was connected with the wire nut. Connect both the green and white wires to the same spot where the black and green are connected together from your old transformer.
In your case, this is a main panel, which is why it is acceptable to connect the neutrals and grounds together (though it is not the best way to do it, but you might as well stay consistent with how your panel is wired). This question/answer should give you some more background on this.

Also note that if your new transformer looks similar to the old one, you should put the threaded part where the 120V wires come through through the knockout in the side of the panel, and use a nut to attach it there. The way the old transformer is attached is not how it should be, those wires should not be passing along the side of the panel and through an unprotected knockout like that.


Sealed cork is definitely durable. My parents' house has cork in the kitchen and the family room which was installed ~25 years ago, and the only place where it's showing some wear is in the spot in the kitchen where my mother drops things regularly and they've shifted the oven and dishwasher in and out for servicing. Knives do stick in it rather than bouncing off, which may affect the permeability of the sealing.


Choosing THHN colors when running 2 circuits together

The available colors are considerably more than that through any decent supplier. Get out of the big box (heck even the big box near me carries more colors than that)
However, at the most basic...
You don't need a grounding wire since you have EMT which is a grounding conductor, but if you do choose to have a grounding wire it has to be green or bare, and green or bare can't be used for anything else. wIth properly assembled EMT you'd just have a grounding screw at the box where the connection to NM/B is made and connect the NM/B grounding wire to that screw.
Neutrals can be white or gray. White or gray (in conduit) can't be anything other than neutral.
All other colors (black brown red orange yellow blue purple) can be hots. There are even striped versions for yet more easily distinguished "colors".
An acceptable and compliant method is to group a pair of black and white wires for each circuit using colored tape, or different numbers of loops of black tape so that you can distinguish the groups.
Another acceptable and compliant method is to run blue and white and red and gray. Or black and white and red and white and tape group the white neutrals to their respective hots. Any of the hot colors for hots, I'm not going to list even all the options that are possible from what colors you list, you should get the idea.


How to cut the correct angle on transition strips

Firstly, note that the cuts on two adjoining pieces should have the same angle, but in the opposite direction. Failure to do this will result in something like you've shown us here, with points sticking out and part of the cut end exposed. That's just not good at all.

Secondly, each joint should pass exactly over the corner in the flooring. This doesn't tell you anything about the length of your pieces, but it helps tell you whether you're on the right track when working out fitment.

Thirdly, always cut a bit long. You can easily re-cut the same angle if needed, and you can adjust if needed. You can't cut a board longer.

If you started with a 45 degree clip in your flooring then it's simple. Each bend is 45 degrees (half a 90), so each cut is half that, or 22-1/2 degrees. Since there's a bit of play in where you install the moldings, this should work fine and give you nice tight miters. Set all pieces in place, adjust positions slightly to get a perfect fit, and lightly trace the position on your flooring as a guide for the final install.

If you don't know or the angles aren't 45 degrees you have a couple options. You can use a carpenter's square or bevel gauge to measure the flooring angles, then simply divide each in half.

Another technique is to lay two pieces in place, overlapping each other at the miter. Precisely mark the point on each edge (inside the bend and outside) where the two pieces intersect. Now when you go back to your miter saw you have two points to cut along.

Or you can use trial-and-error and some scrap wood. Width doesn't really matter. Start with two cuts at 22-1/2 degrees. Set the scraps against the flooring and see what's what. Adjust the cuts (always cut both pieces to the same angle!) in small increments until it's just right, then cut your molding.

One last tip: Use wood glue in the miters. Hold them in place with masking tape to the wood floor, pulling it all inward. Wipe any squeeze-out off and clean up with a damp cloth. A couple hours should do. This will help keep them from working open and will serve to mask any slight angle issues.


Can I extend an existing tile tub surround to create a shower surround?

To do it well (so you won't regret it later) you will need to strip back to the studs and start with cement-board. More mess now, less trouble later.

In replacing a ~1964 tub which had a tile surround up to "shower height" I found that the whole thing was built on drywall. In that case I was having to rip tile to replace the rusted-out sheet-steel tub, but wanted to minimize offense to the rest of the tiled bathroom - I was able to salvage enough tile to trim around a fiberglass tub surround and maintain the overall look of the bathroom. I cement-boarded behind the surround, in the event that someone might ever want to tile the whole thing. Finding matching tile was not happening, and not all the tiles came off intact.


I'd upsize to 125A if I were in your shoes

Given the short length of your wire run (20-odd feet of SER should be sufficient), there's really not much reason to penny-pinch by using an odd-sized feeder; as a result, I'd go up to 125A as larger two-pole breakers require 4 spaces in the feeding panel instead of 2, and you won't be able to make full use of a 225A feeder and subpanel anyway, which is the next size larger as far as main lug panels go.

This means that you'll be using 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 aluminum SER cable instead of the 2-2-2-4 you were originally planning on, and a 125A feeder breaker instead of the (admittedly odd sized) 90A feeder breaker in your original plan.  If conduit is called for (which isn't likely, given that the chances of something between studs being considered subject to physical damage are rather low), then you can use a 1.5" EMT with 3 1/0AWG aluminum wires inside it instead.  In any case, the 75° column in the ampacity tables is what governs for feeders in realistic work, see 110.14(C) point 3 for details.

If you want to use a larger conduit, by the way, that is fine; IRC R602.6.1 would require strapping for a bore larger than 1.75" (50% of the 3.5" actual width of a 2x4 top plate) through the top plate of a load-bearing wall, but even that is not needed for a non-load-bearing partition.

You have the wrong panel picked out anyway

Given that your subpanel is in the same building as the panel feeding it, there is no need for your new subpanel to have a main breaker; furthermore, it's a Homeline, not a QO, so you'll have to keep that in mind when populating it with breakers since the two breaker types are very much not interchangeable!

With all of the above taken into account, and going for as many spaces as we can so you don't have to rip it out and replace it later, we can use a HOM3060L125PGC if you can find it, or a HOM2448L125PGC if the former is not available.  Both of these panels support the full 125A capacity of the feeder I am suggesting, have main lugs (since a main breaker is not needed here), and come with factory-fitted ground bars (obviating the need to buy ground bar kits and install them).

Having a panel flush-mounted into an unfinished wall is fine, even if it looks odd

There is no Code issue with flush-mounting a panel into an unfinished or partially-finished wall; just keep in mind that it may be necessary to unmount and remount the panel when the wall is finished so that the outer portion of the panel cover fits correctly over the drywall. (This weighs against using conduit for the feeder, BTW.)

Last but not least: TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

There is one other thing you'll need to take into account, and that is that the set-screw type mechanical lugs used on circuit breakers and loadcenters need to be torqued to the values labeled on the breaker or loadcenter for that size wire in order to perform reliably over the long-haul.  This was added to Code as a requirement with 110.4(D) in the 2017 NEC; even if your AHJ has not adopted the 2017 edition, using an inch-pound torque wrench and/or torque screwdriver to tighten the lugs to their specification torques is a good idea anyway, lest your electrical system lose you the race!


What happens when you test a smoke detector?

Ionization smoke detectors use a radioisotope to generate a very small electrical current, which when interrupted causes an alarm to sound.   These types of alarms use a metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor (MOSFET) to prevent the alarm from sounding, as long as the tiny current is flowing from the detector.

A simple dumbed down version of the circuit, might look something like this.

Notice the 9V battery is connected to the Source contact of the MOSFET, the detector is connected to the Gate, and the Alarm is connected to the Drain.  This means that as long as there is a current on the gate, current will not flow from the source to the drain.  If something (smoke) interrupts the current flow to the gate, current will flow from the source to the drain and the alarm will sound.

If you add a normally closed switch to the circuit, like so.

Opening the switch will prevent current from flowing to the gate, simulating a loss of current flow from the detector. Which in turn, will cause the alarm to trigger.

So when you press the test button on an ionization type smoke detector, you're not actually testing the circuits ability to detect smoke. Rather, you're testing the circuits ability to react to a loss of current flow to the gate contact of the MOSFET. You're also making sure the battery is not dead, and has enough juice left to sound the alarm if need be.


How can I wire several switches which each control an overlapping subset of my lights?

Steam wiring is not for this
By "steam wiring" I mean all the doddy old-fashioned wiring we do with 1880-era SCADA tech (i.e. brains made of wire and nuts, snap switches, etc).
What you want is smart switches in a hub system.  So you have smart modules (or simply smart bulbs), and then smart switches in the locations of interest.
At that point you can simply define events in the system:
 S1 turnon: turn on L1
 S1 turnoff and S2=off and S3=off: turn off L1, L2, L3
 S2 turnon: turn on L1, L2, L3
 S2 turnoff and S1=off: turn off L1, L2, L3
 S2 turnoff and S1=on: turn off L2, L3

or whatever the heck you choose to define.


Why wont the pull cord retract on my honda eu20i generator?

Some tension? Usually with that retractor unit on the bench the spring has to be pre-tensioned sufficiently to retract the pull cord with alacrity ie not “just enough” but with speed and force.
I found that it would need the same number of turns plus 1 and you need to be carefull when doing the pre-tension as the mechanism can jump out and you might get hit...


Does a 0.1 PSI drop in 24 hours indicate a leak in gas piping?

Home Flex's CSST manual http://homeflex.com/downloads/HOME-FLEX_Installation_Manual.pdf tells you to test at 150% of the product's operating pressure.  A good rule of thumb is always check the product manual first.
When people say 20% of a gauge's capacity, they don't mean over-pressure the gas pipe system; they actually mean get a different gauge if you need to.  Don't, for example, use a 90 PSI gauge to test a 3 PSI gas system; it's not designed to be sufficiently accurate for the test.  The reason people say test at minimum 20% on the gauge is the NFPA 54 fuel gas code §8.1.4.1 says shall have a range such that the highest end of the scale is not greater than 5 times the test pressure.  In any event, I believe you have the correct gauge for your project.
Regarding the test duration, your local building official is the authority on this; but NFPA says for a residence the test duration shall be a minimum of 10 minutes.  The duration of the test shall not be required to exceed 24 hours.  It further says Any reduction of test pressures as indicated by pressure gauges shall be deemed to indicate the presence of a leak.  Sucks, right?  The better your equipment and the more diligent you are, the more likely you chase a ghost, because the code is non-specific.
That's why I'm suggesting ask your building inspector.  He or she will probably tell a story about some local system they can't believe never exploded, and tell you the 0.1 PSI is okay.  Nobody here wants to be the one to say that!  :D


Should I level the subfloor before or after adding another layer of subfloor?

Since you are after subfloor strength I think you'd want to level after you put the other layer down.  I assume you are gluing and screwing the 2nd layer to the first.

TCNA typically wants 1 1/4" thick subfloor.  After you install your 3/8" ply do you meet this thickness?

This sounds like a bathroom how big is it?  Are your floor joists sized for L360?  How large is the area that dips 1/4"?


Plug molding rated at 15 amps, for kitchen it should be 20 amps

The fact of the sockets being 15A (common) instead of 20A (T-neutral) is nothing to worry about.
15A receptacles are allowed on 20A circuits, per NEC 210.21, provided there are 2 or more sockets. I mean sockets not receptacles: The common-as-dirt 2-socket receptacle is 2 sockets.
Interestingly, a Wiremold outlet strip counts as 1 receptacle even though it has like 20 sockets or something... not relevant to a kitchen, but some places in Code (and for houses in some local Codes) you must provision 180VA per receptacle and/or have an 8- or 12-receptacle limit per circuit.  So those plug strips are a fun "cheat" to get a bunch of sockets.
This only becomes an issue if you are trying to plug in an appliance that has a sideways neutral... and when's the last time you've seen one of those?


The yellow romex means that it contains 12 AWG wires which is suitable for any circuit 20 amps or less, this is appropriate.

The GFCI outlet seems to provide fault protection for the can lights that are operated by a switch.

Some things to check:

The NEC requires that a bathroom fan is on its own circuit.  You can verify this by making sure there is a 20 amp circuit breaker at the box that is feeding the red wire.
The wire has different circuits on a shared neutral.  This is acceptable only if the breakers for the two circuit are on a single throw switch.  If one breaker trips then they must both trip.
You didn't mention a bare equipment ground.  Ensure that everything is appropriately grounded.
Ensure that the manufacturer specifications on the fan call for a 20 amp circuit.
Is there also a switch for the fan?  You didn't mention it but unless you want it to run constantly then it will need a switch.
You mention that you believe black is 15 amp and red is 20 amp.  I can't believe the lights would require 20 amps and the fan 15.  Double check which color leads to what circuit breaker before you continue.


thermostat connections with different size wires

Do make 100% certain that the 14AWG wires are not line voltage. There are such things as line voltage thermostats that are designed to directly switch the mains voltage to a device such as a heater or fan unit. It would generally be unusual to find a low voltage thermostat connected up with a large sized wire unless it was a line voltage thermostat.

If indeed the wires are verified to be low voltage 24VAC then you can for sure use the properly sized twist on wire nut to join 18AWG to 14AWG wire.

If there is any feasibility to replace the 14AWG wire used for a low voltage application like this with widely used multi conductor thermostat wire please do consider doing so. It will help to eliminate future confusion. At the same time as replacing do use wire with more than two conductors so that there is flexibility in the future to use a smart thermostat, or one with additional fan and cooling controls.


Current code requires neutrals at switch locations, but provides exceptions. If the existing switch doesn't have a neutral you aren't required to remove building finish. But if the neutral is at the top of the stairs and it isn't visible to the entire floor space then you will need to extend the neutral to the new switch, which may mean 4 conductor cable or a raceway.


Why do my three-way switches only work in one configuration?

You wired it wrong, or the switch you added is defective.

If you want more detail than that, update your question with a complete and accurate discription of the circuit, photographs of the wiring you changed, and details (model number) of the dimmer you installed.


Alternative equipment(s) to drill a few holes on a 0.5 cm plastic beside using a small drill

You could go with a hand drill for such small holes if you wanted.

They work reasonably well and as long as your not too unco they are easy to use.


The municipalities just don't want it liquid or with the lid on.  Imagine a paint can full of paint when the compactor squishes down on it.  Paint everywhere! You can put whatever you want in the paint to make it more solid. Kitty litter, the store bought stuff drying agent, sand.  I have used some old mortar that I had on hand.    You just want to make sure that it's a solid or semi solid, and you can put it out on the curb for pickup without worry of it spilling with no lid. It would take too long for it to air dry.  Also, a film might form on the top, preventing the bottom from drying.


Do gas fireplace blowers actually heat rooms more effectively?

The warmth you feel when you stand in front of the fireplace is radiant heat, which is rays of energy from the hot bright flames striking surfaces and heating them up. Warming a room or space using a single source of radiant heat is difficult because you have to wait until the objects warmed by the radiant energy start to give off their own energy in the form of convected heat.

Your "fireplace blower" tries to capture heat energy with a tube or series of tubes which are placed in the path of the radiant heat energy leaving the fireplace. The theory is that a fan blowing air through the tube(s) will allow the blown air to heat up by conductive heat transfer then diffuse into the room, assisting with heating of the general area.

  "are these blowers any good...?"

Answer- Maybe, well made units, with a large surface area to capture radiant heat from the fire and a well designed heat exchanger and fan work pretty well but are also pretty ugly IMO.

  "make it more effective...?"

Answer- If you have installed it per manufacturer's instructions there's not much more you can do except make a bigger fire. I don't have actual data, but in my experience a wood fire is generally way hotter than an equivalent "size" natural gas fire.

P.S.- I would not "put... a plain old box fan next to the fireplace and let it blow". You have a chimney for a reason. You do not want to disturb the natural draft of your fireplace. This could introduce products of combustion, like carbon monoxide, into your living space and/or blow hot embers out onto the floor.


What is a good wood to use to build a base for a heavy antique table top?

Wood is wood. So long as it's furniture grade lumber, and adequately designed to support the weight of the tabletop, it doesn't much matter if it's pine or mahogany. What I'd do is to select the wood based on how easy it is to work with and how you want it finished - dark or light; painted or stained or natural; oiled, shellacked or varnished; with lots of obvious wood grain and/or knots, or a tight, even grain, etc. More interesting and aesthetically pleasing wood tends to be more expensive.

Also, you probably want to hire a cabinet maker rather than a carpenter. You don't necessarily need the skills of a furniture maker for this project, but you will need a different set of skills than a typical carpenter has. A good cabinet maker will work with you to match the wood with your design goals.

Finally, maybe take the table as it is to a furniture restorer. It could be the table is substantial enough, it just needs some long-overdue maintenance to tighten the joins and refinish the wood - this will be less expensive than rebuilding it from scratch, and can preserve any value the table has as vintage furniture.


I believe the component you have is defective. I have what I believe is the same set of tools, and is the same brand name.

It is an extension for the main handle.

I am unable to separate the hexagonal portion from the black cylinder. The joined area of my tool appears to have epoxy or similar material bonding the two pieces together.

I would not have expected epoxy as the only bonding material, although I have yet to over-torque anything and have the bond break.

If you are able to insert the cylinder end on the hexagonal portion and engage some of the hex portion of the cylinder, you too can epoxy them together and have a working tool again.

EDIT: added two photos by request.


How can I run a line under a cement sidewalk

Unless you want to get into concrete repair here and need an excuse, dig a 5-6 foot long pit on one side of the sidewalk, and a 1 foot long pit on the other side. Drop pipe into the 5-6 foot long pit, hammer in. Run a hose up it and flush the dirt out (probably not continuously - it's easy to overdo) and drive some more. When it pops out on the far side you are done. Won't work if you hit a big rock. Cut the turf off neatly so you can patch the hole in the lawn when you are done, or just do it in the flowerbed and put the plants and mulch back.


2x6 deck joists: salvageable or need replacing?

According to the table in the 2012 IRC code a exterior deck needs to handle a 60lb per sq ft (40 lb live + 20lb dead load). Most treated lumber that I am aware of is #2 southern yellow pine, using that criteria on the table in the code book, your joists can carry a 10'-9" span.

The biggest failure in deck construction has not been the posts or the joists, but the connection to the house. I believe code now requires through bolts into the band joist, or the joist of the house, or posts at the house is cool too.

The length of the post will dictate whether they need to be 4X4 or 4X6. Its a deflection (bowing) thing. IMO 4X4 for a 10' span is not overloading the post, a 16' span may...


When add a new closet in an existing space, should I attach the bottom plate to the flooring or the subfloor?

If you're not removing any of the existing structure, you can absolutely frame on top of the existing floor. Same goes for the walls and ceiling, you can frame your new walls without removing anything else (unless you need to run wires or something). One thing to check, however, is which way the existing ceiling joists are running. Depending on how long your new walls are, you might want to cut out the ceiling where the new walls go so you can add some 'nailers' (small blocks of wood) to run between the existing ceiling joists, so the top of your new wall is firmly fastened to the framing.


after reading a ton of threads on agitators, watching videos, and speaking with livesupport and appliance repair people, i verified that the 7/16" agitator hold down bolt  holds the upper agitator onto the lower agitator.

i removed the bolt from the lower agitator and didn't find any washers.  i found something resembling a metal washer so i put a rubber washer then the metal washer over it.  i put the cam kit on top then put the bolt back in and it held the upper agitator on the lower agitator.    the washing machine works again!


How do I add a utility sink drain into a tight space?

After learning way too much about drains and venting, here’s how I solved adding a properly vented sink drain, plus a washer outlet. A professional plumber who was snaking the drain inspected it and gave it a thumbs up. Hope this is useful to anyone looking for ideas.


The white connected to the ground screw is suspect.

Normally the whites are pigtailed together and capped and the black goes through the switch. (And of course bare wires to the ground screw).

If you want to double check the connections from here you can do that with a multimeter. Plug in a resistive load (toaster, space heater, incandescent light bulb, iron,...) into the switched outlet and check whether the resistance between a black and white going the same direction has the same resistance as between the prongs on the plug.

The other set of wires will be coming from the breaker and should be live at mains voltage when you turn it back on.


Bringing power to a newly constructed detach garage

First.  Next time you're welding and a breaker trips, put the tool down, walk away, and don't use the tool again until you have corrected the wiring defect (i.e. too-small wire for the tool and a breaker that is correct to protect that wire).

Talk to your power company about uploading that meter

Normally I would say "no way" because the meter itself and the service lateral (the pole line/underground from the transformer) would also need to have the capacity, and it usually doesn't.

However yours sounds like an all-electric house.  I've seen all-electric houses provisioned for 400A.  So it's possible the power company has already dropped a service lateral fit for 400A. In which case yeah, you could feed a second 200A main breaker right next to the meter pan and have that feed the garage.

Otherwise you will need to upgrade service, and depending on costs you may be better off getting a separate drop/meter.

This is completely determined by the power company and their peculiar situation on your block, we cannot possibly advise you other than to talk to them.

Given a project of this scope and safety impact, it goes without saying that you must communicate with the power company and must also pull permits with your local AHJ and do the inspection rigmarole.  Generally AHJs are ok with people doing their own work, provided  they are not a landlord (in which case no) or working commercially (in which case maybe).  Doing this "gypsy" is out of the question.

You need to know more about exactly what your loads are

It sounds like you have only a coarse grasp of the electrical loads in your house.  It is time for you to do a proper survey.

You are looking for watts or VA and need to eventually turn that into  amps by dividing by volts.  For instance a 2000W heater which runs on 240V is -- anyone, anyone, Bueller?  8.3333 amps at 240V.

For a resistive heater, Watts and VA are identical.  For most others, VA is more important - Watts is what you pay for, VA is what trips the breaker. (to be more precise, VA is the power you must provision.)  When different, use VA.

Get the numbers off the machines' nameplates.  If no nameplate and they plug in, just get a $30 Kill-a-Watt and measure the machine underway.  You'd be surprised what is almost nothing (coffee grinders) and what is a lot (coffee makers).  Kill-a-Watt is not as helpful as nameplate, because nameplate is professionally tested.

Motors are special; get their running amps and horsepower.  Locked rotor amps (a rather large number compared to the others) is not that important, nor is RPM.

Make a spreadsheet of the whole kit-n-kaboodle, you can do 240V and 120V loads separately.   Then think about what is likely to be on at the same time (NOT heat and A/C hopefully) but even moreso, in the shop.  Do you expect to use the lathe and planer at the same time?

Once you have done this survey, a bunch of really educational numbers will fall out the bottom and you'll know what to do next.

Think more about conservation

LED bulbs are nice, but it is "rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic" if you have resistive electric heat.  I would go one of two ways on that.  One is convert your resistive heaters to heaters that mine Bitcoin - you're still using a lot of electricity but at least you're getting paid.  The other is go heat pump, which is ideal in a place freezes are rare; this will greatly lower your energy consumption and give you more headroom to run the shop.


How to connect c-wire to Burnham Series 2 boiler?

Tap the white wire in the control harness

If you look closely at the wiring diagram for your boiler -- there is a 9 pin connector with a harness connected to it that connects to the thermostat wiring junction, the gas valve, and the limit circuit.  The white wire in this harness, while technically the gas valve common or MV/PV terminal, is a 24VAC common (C) wire, and can be tapped to serve other needs in the system.  In fact, in the wiring diagram, it is shown running to the limit circuit extension plug as well for use by low-water cutoff or equivalent safety devices.

So, with power to the boiler off, we can cut the white wire bundled with the two blue wires in the harness to that extension connector and splice both of the cut ends together with a wirenut, giving us a bundle we can splice our thermostat C wire into.  Install your Ecobee, turn the boiler back on, and enjoy!

As an aside, the reference in the control manual to not putting "auxiliary controls or limits" in the grounded leg means that no limit switches or control switches can be installed in a way that breaks the 24VAC return path from the control board to the transformer -- it is not a concern here.


Leaking pool in Georgia - Let it leak through the winter and fix in spring?

You should confirm the leak is in the plumbing. The pool company can do a pressure test (it's easy to do diy too, just need some fittings. Just be careful not to put too much pressure in the system.) Anyway, another way to confirm where the leak is to plug the return and skimmer lines. If the water stops falling, then you have your answer.

If the leak is indeed in the plumbing, capping the lines, winterizing and waiting till the spring is fine.


There are 2 types of concrete: Concrete that that is cracked and concrete that will crack.

There are several products that work well to seal cracks. Oover the years I have found the types that stay flexible to be the best —especially if in a region that has low winter temps below 25F.  Below that temperature, I find water will cause more damage if not sealed.


Can I use an outlet splitter with my air conditioner?

Your AC only draws 6.3amps when its running.  But when it turns on, for a moment as the motors start, it draws significantly more.  Many window air conditioners say in the manual that they need a dedicated circuit because of this.

These startup surges may melt cheap powerbars and splitters, eventually causing enough damage to be a fire hazard.

Additionally, those surges cause the voltage to drop which can wreak havoc on delicate electronics like an electric piano.  Usually not destructive, but enough to make it malfunction.

Assuming you cant get permission to have more outlets installed, run an extension cord, preferably for the other electronics near the window.  Make sure that extension runs to an outlet on another circuit, and that no other large loads or sensitive electronics are on that circuit.


1:Hunch would appear to be likely correct.
2C:Cons: Probably costs more per month to have two services. You'd have to check. There's typically a charge per service and a charge for use, at least in my part of the world, and I expect that to be similar elsewhere.
Shutting of "the power" in an emergency is not one place, but two.
Increased risks if someone less than fully knowledgeable about the weirdness in this house does any electrical work.
2P:Pros: depending how separate the two providers really are (if they use separate distribution) might be less chance of a power outage affecting both sides of the house (this does not apply if they use the same shared distribution network and are merely separate entities that put power into and sell it from the shared grid.)
3:I'd guess it might be a paperwork nightmare. You'd have to choose a utility to keep and contact both (or all three if you can and do choose a third one) to work out the details. To actually solve 1, you might need rewiring so that one meter feeds both entrance points, otherwise you might be paying for two services to the same provider.
4:Probably not, other than the implications of 3 and 2P, if 2P even applies.


The short answer is yes you can run 2 circuits in 1 conduit. There are some limitations depending on the size and type of wire or cable and the conduit size. If you provide the needed ampacity of each circuit and conduit size / current wire type we can provide you with what would be allowed by code in the areas we know (providing your country / state) we may be able to get quite specific.

Added:

See the comment below but you have way more room to add circuits with the wire you mentioned. You should be using wire listed as THWN most of the wire I purchase today is listed as THHN /THWN.  THWN or wire listed for a wet location  is required when the conduit is outside or a wet location. Illinois is on the 2008 NEC. The wire size, fill and type have not changed for years. Note source for NEC In ILLINOIS is the NEC In effect 1-1-2017.
Good luck and be safe.
2nd note I was lazy and used table values for #12 since there were 2 sizes. 1/2" THHN / THWN the max conductors for #12 is 9. The max fill if they were all #14 is 12 , with 12 conductors the derate would be 50% so as long as you stay below 9 conductors your wire size and ampacity is not affected.


Can I lay down plywood in my attic to create a storage space?

As far as the opening goes, you can put in a collapsing ladder, such as this one. I've installed one before and they're not too bad, just a little framing work and some large nails (I used 16p nails and you'll need a friend or two to help, the ladder and frame is somewhat weighty). This gives you a ladder and an easy way to get up to the attic and it collapses down to just a panel which can be painted and framed to make it look nice against the ceiling.

The attic in my house just has some plywood on the truss floor which serves as a great storage floor. Just have to be sure not to block the air flow in the attic and realize that it may get very hot in the summer and cold in the winter. I made the mistake of storing some candles in boxes one summer ..... wound up with candle blobs when I discovered them again.


All such units have a safety device to prevent the main valve from opening if the pilot is not lit. When these go bad, the system thinks the pilot is not lit (even if it is) and the main gas valve will not open.

Sometimes this device is a simple thermocouple, sometimes it is a bundle of thermocouples encapsulated in a tube, called a thermopile or pilot generator. They work on the same principle: when heated they supply a low-voltage signal to the gas valve, as a permissive for it to open (on thermopile units it actually supplies the power that opens the valve).

This would be the first thing to check, look for a small cylindrical device that sits adjacent to the pilot flame such that it would be heated by the pilot. It will have either a pair of wires or a thin copper tube that leads to the gas control valve.

This is only one of many things that could go wrong, but it is a common issue and easy to rule out because they are fairly easy to replace and inexpensive.


Unless you know exactly what it is, do not drill through metal in the wall.  There are so many bad things it can be.  Ductwork in the wall wouldn't be terrible to drill into, but then trying to use a sheetrock anchor in that hole might not be a great idea.

If you are drilling into a stud, and you find metal, it could be a nail protector designed to cover pipes and wires that are run through studs.

These are easy to identify because they will sit directly behind the drywall.  They are thick enough so you can't puncture them by accident, but if you have a drill and are determined, you can drill through it pretty quickly.

If there is a wire behind the plate, the damage might not be immediate or obvious but the damaged wire could cause issues later.  (Of course you can get lucky and not hit the wire).

Plumbing pipe is another common source of metal, but in new construction that has been largely replaced by plastic pipe.  Either way if a pipe is drilled, you get pretty immediate feedback that you messed up in the form of a big leak.


While I can't be 100% sure -- it sounds like the motor is pulling excessive start current and causing the breaker to trip.

Try spinning the drum by hand with the washing machine not running/empty -- if it spins freely (your washer is belt drive) then I'd start by replacing the motor/inverter assembly.

If the drum doesn't spin freely then you have a drive system problem somewhere.


Breakers protect wires.. doesn't 83% derating violate it?

It gets kind of weird, but in general residential loads just don't have high enough duty cycle for it to be a concern.  Add up every load in your house, and I doubt you'll be able to draw the full 200 amps (48kw assuming 240V service) for any length of time, even with a house full of guests.  Indeed, I have 200amp service (48kw), but the transformer that feeds my house and about 5 others is only rated to 25kw. The power company asked what loads I was going to power with an upgraded service, and deemed it unlikely that I and all my neighbors would be using more that 25kw for more than a few seconds at a time.

Ampacity charts also have a significant safety margin.  Drawing more than 175A over a 2/0 wire will get things hotter than desired, but won't cause the cable or its insulating jacket to break down.

Commercial/Industrial loads are different.  The Code assume that the duty cycle of devices is much higher, and therefore commercial/industrial rated breakers actually trip at 80% of their load rating for continuous draws.  (They allow spikes above that for shorter lengths of time.)


Do these 60s kitchen drawers have narrower boxes than the faces?

This style of cabinet is called a "face frame". Its typically an American style cabinet that is a little easier to install but you lose access to some space since the opening for the door is smaller than the carcase of the cabinet. Typically there isn't a smaller box inside its just a frame around the door.  Contrast this with European style cabinets where the doors and drawers cover the full front of the cabinet box.


Hanging up blackboard adhesive over a rough textured wall

A $15 bucket of drywall compound (mud) and a wide drywall knife, a wall sanding block and some drywall sanding screens. Even as a temporary fix, unless you want to hang up a chalkboard as suggested in the comments, the skim-coat of drywall mud will get the job done as quickly and easily as it can be done. If you'll be doing the work in 3 months, it will also provide hands-on practice that you don't have to care about being "perfect" if you'll be ripping and replacing in 3 months. As suggested in that thread, try sanding off the high points before you start mudding.

Big hint if you haven't done much - do not try to get it perfect in one coat. The secret to quick and easy mudwork is to let it dry, knock off the high points, and recoat to fill the low spots, repeatedly.


Why my engineered hardwood floor is chipping/worn (abuse or regular wear?)

That floor appears to be of phenomenally low quality, and I have doubts that it's even actual hardwood. I would have expected the broken out pieces of veneer to leave a more fibrous edge. From the shape and coloration it appears synthetic.

Do you see how the edges of the top layer show white near the missing areas? Wood doesn't do that. That's what shows when the printed laminate wears away. I'm 99% sure there's no wood in this product besides the particle board. Tyson's suggestion about moisture would explain the decomposition at the edges due to swelling.

Your question isn't really answerable as we don't have all the facts, and it's partly a matter of opinion. I can only say this with certainty: Real wood doesn't look like that, and even inexpensive laminate shouldn't be disintegrating without extreme traffic volume or moisture damage.


What is the best order for interior painting (walls, trim, windows, etc.)?

Ceiling first, if you're going to do it.
Strip the trim: it's a messy job and you will get stripper in places you don't want it.  Actually, if you could remove the trim without damaging it, I would do that.
Paint the walls.
Paint the trim: you'll likely be using a small paintbrush on the trim, so it'll be easier to get sharp lines where it meets the walls.