Sealing gap between exterior door threshold and wood floor

I would use Quad Sealant.

Use painters tape to mask off the floor boards and the threshold and then apply Quad with a caulk gun, Just enough not to much.

Then dip you finger in Denatured alcohol and gently smooth it out by running your finger along the bead a couple of times to remove excess and make smooth.

Remove tape repeat with the moistened finger, carefully and lightly, just enough to smooth out the lines left from pealing the tape off.

You will still have the seams between the boards but the main gap between threshold and boards will be sealed. You may try to force some quad into those seams, Tape them off first, the quad is difficult to clean off.


What on earth is this small wall-mounted computer?

It's a temperature sensor w/ wireless transmitter:

https://www.inovonics.com/products/dual-input-temperature-transmitter-en1723/

I found that by googling the various numbers printed on the stickers -- EN1723 turned the device up as the top hit.


How to prepare home to prevent pipe leaks during a severe winter storm?

The cheapest thing to do, and feasible to do at the very last minute without any supplies, is to shut off the water at an underground location outside the building (at the meter, for instance). Iced pipes, and even broken pipes, aren't what causes severe damage to a building -- it's the water that flows uncontrolled after a frozen and broken pipe thaws that really causes havoc.
I don't have statistics handy for the average length of piping used in a US home, but just to work with round numbers, suppose it's 100 feet of 3/4 inch pipe and 200 feet of 1/2 inch pipe. Combined all that pipe holds about 6.5 gallons of water.
That's not an insignificant amount of water, but chances are that a leak in some arbitrary place isn't going to allow all of that to leak out, either. A good portion of the pipe contents could be drained out before the freeze by opening faucets. High-elevation faucets will admit air into the system while low-elevation faucets let the water run away down the drain.
Don't forget to also drain other reservoirs of chaos: toilet tanks and water heater tank. Extra credit goes to one who treats the P-traps too. Those under sinks could be removed and the water simply dumped out. Those under bathtubs, built into toilets, or hidden in the wall for a clothes washer could be vaccumed out with a wet-dry vac or even a turkey baster, or treated with salt or RV antifreeze to prevent the remaining water from freezing.
Water-using appliances are likely to be damaged but freeze-proofing them is challenging. Think about the in-door water dispenser or ice maker in a fridge, the dish washer, the clothes washer, the steam feature in a clothes dryer, a steam oven, and so on..
After the storm is over and temperatures return above freezing careful re-commissioning of the water system is key. Verify the drainage plumbing is undamaged (traps below sinks, bathtubs, clothes washers, etc). Test the supply plumbing for leaks with vacuum or compressed air if possible. Turn the water on slowly and carefully listen and watch for signs of leaks. Monitor the flow indicator and dials on the water meter to confirm water flows only when it's expected to (when a valve somewhere is opened).


Can my lug and breaker insert be rotated 180 degrees

That right there is what a panel should look like. Note the empty void for a third service wire; that's for 3-phase which means it's industrial grade. The breakers are 3/4" wide; this would only fit 20 breakers if they were 1" tall.   It's very, very busy in there, but only because all the wires come in the top hole.  It's not anything to worry about.  They did you the disfavor of  runting off all the wires so they barely reach the breaker/bar, which frustrates moving anything around or adding AFCIs/GFCIs. But here's the thing:

Ground bars do not need to be in the factory anointed locations

They can be placed anywhere in the panel. except the screws can't mount on a knockout (it can bridge across an unused knockout).  But you need to very carefully drill and tap the mounting holes yourself, -32 pitch or finer,  typically an 8-32 or 10-32 or 1/4-28 screw (whatever they provide in the kit).  The holes must be the right size, which means looking it up on the web and hitting a hardware store for the correct bit, probably a numbered bit like #27.  I would wrap the drill bit with masking tape so only the first 3/16" is exposed, so it can't nick a wire.

If you strip out a hole, just move the bar over 1/4" and try again.

Mind you, the -32 requirement is for electrical contact.  I wouldn't rely on it for electrical contact. I'd use a nice fat ground wire also,  going from the ground lug you're abandoning through your first bar, through your second, pop up a little for the clamp meter, and then onward to the neutral bar.

As far as flipping the bus bar assembly

It looks to me like Cutler Hammer went to a fair amount of work specifically to make the bus bar assembly flippable.  But that appears to be so they could do it at the factory, because there's a problem.

The cover won't line up.  You could contact Eaton and see if they can supply a cover for that; it's possible.


How can I dispose of large glass mirrors?

Mirrors are made up of two parts, the glass and then a reflective coating on the back.  Because of this, they are not considered 100% glass and many times the town's recycle pickup (if your have one) for glass will not take them because there will be an additional process to separate the glass from the reflective material backing.

Possible disposal methods:

Throw it out.  We have a recycling/trash center in our town and for a
fee you can dispose of bulk items that the trash guys will not pick
up.  A mirror of that size would be considered a bulk item.
Recycle.  Check your local recycling center, some of them will
recycle mirrors at no cost.
Repurpose.  The mirror could be reused by someone else as is if it is
good shape.  Some advertisement may be necessary in local media, or you can use free advertising as indicated below in the comments by @Steve.
Donate.  A mirror or especially a broken mirror can be reused for
many arts and crafts type projects like a mosiac.  Check with
schools/university or with any local artisans, they might take it off
your hands.

Finally, in thier spare time one could create a funkadelic disco ball from the mirror and then sell it on eBay for a small profit.


Chattering contactor, what should voltage be when AC is on/off?

If the transformer does not have one leg grounded, then you could measure 24 volts at the contactor when the thermostat is not calling for cool. This is because you're measuring between one leg of the transformer (24 volts), and a floating wire (0 volts).

When the thermostat calls for cool, you'll still measure 24 volts if the leads are not attached to the coil. Because you're measuring between each leg of the transformer.

If the leads are attached to the coil, and the thermostat is calling for cool. Then the circuit is complete, and you should measure 0 volts. Because both leads are now at the same potential.

If the coil is bad, or there's a loose connection or broken/damaged wire somewhere. You'll see the voltage "bounce" between 0 and 24 volts, but probably only if you're using an analog meter.

Check all the wiring for loose or broken connections. Make sure the contactor is the proper size, and that the coil is still good.


Bottom shelf of cabinet, support weight of itself?

Knowing nothing about the construction of your cabinetry, I would not trust the bottom shelf to carry the weight of the cabinet, the cabinet's contents, and all the children and dogs likely to be on top of it all. That shelf is designed to carry load applied downward.

Instead, get some heavy angle brackets and fasten them to the side panels of the cabinet using backer plates of 3/4" plywood, which you'd mount with construction adhesive and 1-1/4" screws. Mount your casters to the angle brackets.


What is the purpose of a GFI outlet tripping on low voltage?

I've come across a scenario in which this feature might actually improve safety:

Some older European buildings still have TN-C wiring in place. Current wiring codes no longer allow this due to safety concerns (which I'll get to in a minute), but there is no requirement to upgrade as long as no modifications are made (simple replacements, such as installing a new switch in place of a faulty one, do not count as modifications).

With TN-C there are two wires from the main panel to the wall outlets: a live wire and a combined ground-neutral (PEN) wire. At each outlet, there is a short length of wire bridging the ground and neutral terminals, and the PEN wire is attached to one of these two terminals.

However, an interruption in the PEN wire presents a safety hazard: devices are still powered via the live wire but the circuit is interrupted due to the faulty PEN wire. Touching the metal chassis of any device on that circuit will have the same effect as touching the neutral wire: doing so while grounded will turn you into the missing link in the PEN wire, which can be deadly.

This was the reason for phasing out this practice in favor of TN-C-S, which splits up the PEN into two wires at the distribution panel. With TN-C-S, interruption of a single wire affects either the ground wire or only the neutral wire, neither of which present an immediate risk of electric shock in an otherwise compliant setup.

Enter the GFI outlet: if used to replace a regular outlet in a TN-C setup, the PEN gets interrupted and someone were to touch the metal chassis of a device plugged into the GFI outlet, the GFI would trip. At the most, you'd feel a slight, short tingle as you touch the device.

Since a faulty PEN is likely to cause a brownout or blackout, having the GFI trip on low voltage would likely cause it to trip on a PEN interruption. Devices plugged into the outlet would not be hazardous to touch (and not even give you a tingle as you did), although devices not behind a GFI would obviously not benefit from this and still present a hazard. Additionally, a tripping GFI may alert people that something may be amiss – another example why a circuit breaker or GFI tripping should not just be considered a nuisance to be fixed by switching the power back on, but as an indication of a potential hazard that needs to be looked into.


Changing Trane Baystat240a to another thermostat

Trane units all use Blue as their 24 volt Common for their control circuits, Common is called this because all the 24 volt circuits return to Common to complete the 24 volt circuits.


Can multiple outlets be directly attached to a single breaker?

a) Two NEMA-5-20 outlets, each has a run of #12 wire, that runs all the way to a single breaker, which then clamps 2 black #12 wires.

It depends on the specifications of the breaker. If it allows 2 wires then OK. If not, just connect the two wires to a third wire (pigtail) and connect that wire to the breaker.

  b) Two NEMA-14-50 outlets, each has a run of #6 wire, that runs all the way to the breaker which clamps on two red leads and two black leads.

No. See Wire two 14-50 outlets to 50 amp breaker


How do I check if this furnace switch the blower to second speed

Most furnaces; yours included it appears, do not change the speed of the motor during normal operation. The motor typically has three or more speeds (high, medium, and low), and is hard wired to use different speeds based on what mode the furnace is in.

For example, in heating mode most blowers run at low or medium speed. While in fan or A/C mode, they run at high speed.

If your furnace is overheating, the first thing to do is to make sure the filter(s) are clean. Also make sure all the registers and returns are fully open, and unobstructed.

If you haven't checked already, check the temperature of the furnace when the limit trips. You could have a bad limit, that is tripping when the furnace is not actually overheated.


What's the best way to fix heavily stained white Ikea furniture?

Isopropyl alcohol, "rubbing alcohol", will remove most "permanent" markers (e.g. Sharpie brand markers), but may be ineffective on ballpoint pen marks, depending on the ink formulation. For this purpose, don't bother using anything less pure than the commonly available 91%, with 99% being preferred. At 70% concentration it's commonly not effective.

For marking which was recently applied, the marks will usually be removed quickly and completely. Some surfaces, particularly if the writing has been present for an extended time or if the surface is not smooth, may need considerable rubbing or scrubbing (e.g. with a toothbrush, to get some agitation in nooks and crannies), and/or may need to have the isopropyl alcohol sit on the surface for a time alcohol (e.g. with a paper towel dampened by isopropyl alcohol).

There are also stronger removers available from retail. The product "Goof Off" is particularly effective to remove a wide variety of substances, including ink, but will damage some surfaces (e.g. it will partially melt some plastics). If you consider using it, you should test it on an unobtrusive location to see if it causes damage.

Wall paint seems like a terrible idea, will not be as smooth, and will get marked up again. I'd tend towards being happy that your daughter is making art and not worry so much about things being pristine and unmarked.


Patching hole in cellar floor when water seeps up from ground

First as long as you have water coming up your patch probably won't hold. When I want a good seal in cases like this I do it in the summer when the ground water levels are lower. I believe hydraulic cement is the proper type of material to fill these holes, many times if you can plug them water will start coming up in other locations.

Allowing the water to flow through the patch will reduce the risk of someone getting hurt because of the hole but I would plan to do the repair in the summer if trying to seal. A couple of holes will allow the water to flow and not push the plug of new concrete out. Water underneath is not the problem, it's the pressure. They pour bridge footings under water, once the concrete displaces the water and fills the forms, it cures and works fine.


How can I repair cracks in a sports court?

You could patch up these cracks with an epoxy filler or a cement product type filler. In either case the filler will dry hard and be able to take the temperature extremes of your location. Repair such as this is going to leave tracks where the filled cracks were and will still be highly visible due to the surface texture that was originally applied to the slab surface. To get the best visual appearance you may want to subsequently consider prepping the surface and getting a new textured surface applied. Before doing that however please do read on to the next paragraphs.

These cracks readily show that the soil under the slab is changing position and settling. It also gives the appearance, due to the separation that has occurred, that the slab was built without any or a very limited amount of wire mesh and rebar installed. Both wire and re-bar cannot prevent cracks but will prevent large separations and variation of surface height across the cracks in most cases except the most extreme soil movement, settling, or water erosion under the slab.

You will want to carefully evaluate conditions that led to the cracks in your slab. If there is continued soil movement any repairs that you do will be only temporary and could lead to disappointment and loss due to the cost of the repairs. In the worst cases it may very well be better in the long run to remove the sports equipment, break up the slab and remove it and the replace with a new slab that is installed in a way to prevent future cracks. This would of course include plenty of wire mesh and rebar. If the soil is unstable it may even be necessary to engineer a footing and/or deep peers that can stabilize your new slab.

If the cracks have been stable for a long time and you've seen no changes since the original incident then repairs with filler and a re-application of the textured surface may be a good longer term solution.


Mineral build up has likely cemented the aerator in place, so:

Wash off the WD40 residue with soap as best you can.

Get a glass or cup. Fill it with vinegar or a citric acid solution, and heat it in the microwave til hot. position the cup under the faucet so that the mineraled up threads are submerged. Let it sit for a few hours periodically warming the liquid and lightly tapping the aerator with a hammer so as to loosen residue.
If you are persistent and lucky, the acid will dissolve the mineral buldup to the point you can unscrew the top half of the aerator.

If you have them, a mototool or detail sander might also be used to mechanically nudge the stuck threads. That'll open channels for the acid to get at the mineral buildup.


Plumbing. Compression fitting Shower valve to 3/4" threaded female. Ideas needed

I'm no plumber, but here's a thought...

Compress a copper nipple onto the shower valve.  Now instead of the adapter you made, install one of these into the wall:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/82086

Now, place the other end of the nipple (already attached to the shower valve) into the compressed end of that fitting, and to lock down the nipple you will be tightening in the same direction as the threads going into the wall.  So basically you end up with a compression fitting on both ends of the nipple.


Your problem is that the white wire that is connected to the new dimmer never actually connects to neutral -- it simply connects to the load.  You'll need a white pigtail and a new wirenut to fix this.

Turn the power off at the breaker. Undo the existing wirenut for the white wires, and undo the white wire from the new dimmer.  Twist one end of the white pigtail and the white wire that was undone from the new dimmer with the existing bundle of white wires, and put the new wirenut on.  Attach the other end of the pigtail to the new dimmer and put everything back together, then turn the power back on and enjoy your new dimmer!


Bulbs for Round Kitchen Fixture Containing a Ballast

The lightolier 1105 reflector fits multiple housings, if you have a ballasted fixture like a 1101F18U, 1100AICMFT, or more recently an 1101LED you need to check the label on the rough in portion of the fixture to find what lamps are compatible with the ballast/driver.
You should be able to pull the reflector down out of the ceiling and see the junction box that is part of the fixture. If the fixture has a ballast it will be mounted to a cover of that j-box. Here is a picture of a similar fixture with a white ballast attached.
Having found a self ballasted lamp in the fixture I would guess the housing is non-ballasted such as one of the models listed on the label you shown. The shapes and sizes of lamps shown are the types of lamps that they have tested in the fixture that won't damage the fixture and will operate the over temperature sensor if it has one. I'm sure due to the sheer number and styles of retail self ballasted lamps that the globe you have was never tested in that fixture.


Light flickers once when fan is turned on

This isn't really an answer, but I thought I'd close the loop.

Changing the bulb to a different brand of LED bulb causes the flicker to stop.

This doesn't explain why the flicker is there to begin with, but all of the installed fans of the same model exhibit this behavior.

Ideally, I would investigate further, but time is limited.


Should I upgrade to 3/4" pipe all the way to my new pex manifold?

Is the manifold 3/4? If you have easy access to do it, then you are correct that now is the time to do it.


Why will my well pressure not go above 40 PSI even when I hold the pressure switch closed?

You need a pump that will provide more pressure. That may or may not be "larger" in terms of HP - my recollection was that the most common 1/2 HP submersible pumps when I was shopping were actually set up for higher pressure/deeper wells than the 3/4 HP pump I got, but the key is that the HP alone does NOT tell you what the pump can or will do - different impeller/staging setup can do more volume at lower pressure or more pressure at lower volume from the same HP input. This is seen by comparing "pump curves" which is what truly matters when choosing the right pump.
You can make some slight inference as to pump HP from the size of the breaker (or fuse) on the pump circuit, but given the starting surge it's not entirely definitive.
My particular 3/4 HP pump works just fine (set at 40/60) from 300 feet down more than 100 feet from the house, and will draw the well from 100 feet down all the way to the pump location (my well drillers appear to have fibbed quite a bit about the GPM my well produces, since it was chosen with their numbers and the well should not draw down to pump level if their numbers were correct.)
Another possibility is that your pump impeller may have worn to the point that it no longer works as designed, and it's possible that a pump of the same power and impeller setup that was new should work fine.
When you get a new pump, be sure to stick the provided labels (usually - or just write the information with a permanent marker) on the pump control box or breaker panel or on the wall near the pressure tank so that you or the next person will actually know what pump is down the well.


Re-key a lock so it's always openable without a key

An actual locksmith can do that for you at sane cost.   Remove as much of the lock mechanism as possible, and bring it on into a shop.

He can also make it a deadbolt, so it can't "autolock behind you" and will only lock if manually operated.  You can also get a double-face lock so if they break the glass to reach in, all they find is another key-face (this is OK if it is not an emergency egress route).  In my house we never use the autolock, we only deadbolt.


Are these junction boxes suitable for domestic lighting?

The link does not show any device.
Ground connection via clamping to the DIN rail is industry standard since many decades, but the rail and clamp ratings must be considered.
DIN rail corrosion is only a problem in aggressive environments like salt water, chemical industry etc., if the box has a low IP code. The plated rails normally do not corrode even after half a century. Furthermore, a closed junction box does have a slightly higher temperature thus lowering the possibility for corrosion.
There are special types of DIN rails made of aluminum or copper to ensure low resistance. In some countries a normal steel DIN rail must not be used for the PEN, but can be used as pure PE.


It is very hard to answer this question as it's like asking what is the going rate for a car? But to give you an idea of a semi-DIY job I did about 4 years ago for the exact size basement remodel but with all 6 walls concrete (below garage), it cost me about $3,000 in labor (framing + drywall + tile), including lumber and sheetrock. The framer was an acquaintance so probably gave me a little break, maybe 20% off the usual rate.
I did the rest by myself, including the insulation (foamboards+roxul), electric/lights (researched code extensively while doing and had it checked for code), painting, engineered wood floors, etc. All these cost me probably 10-12k in materials. The flooring (~2k), insulation, electrical components, door and a couple of windows (~2k) as this space originally had a garage door, were the most expensive parts. Also, this is my office/gameroom so I went with a bit of an industrial look. There was no ductwork in this space so I added a split air AC. If you need to finish the ductwork/ceiling, this will undoubtedly add to your cost of labor and materials.
So I want to estimate the entire project at around $15k. It took me about 3-4 months (while also having a day job and working on other parts of the house) and it was quite an enjoyable process (if it is your thing). The construction industry is VERY busy right now. You'd be lucky to get a callback, and the prices quoted are in general very high because most professionals who do improvement have work lined up for the entire year! In that climate, you will get quoted a high price. If you are able to at all DIY at least some parts of it, you will save a LOT of money.
Since you are posting in DIY, I assume you are at least open to it. Prepare for long hours of youTube watching, code reading, and learning by asking specific questions about narrow issues (unlike this very question). YouTube can be tricky, so ALWAYS read comments on those, even if a video is seemingly by a pro, because you will find many of those "pros" make serious mistakes and some downright dangerous. So make sure YouTube, forums, and Q/As are not your only source of information. Many of the codes are actually published so I'd start there.
Sorry, I cannot help you anymore since your question is very broad but if you want to ask me specifics on certain parts of the project I did, I'd be happy to answer if I can.
Here are some photos of the finishing stages for inspiration.
David


How do I fix a leak at a decommissioned saddle-valve?

The proper name for it is a self piercing saddle valve. The valves are bad for many reasons, including the fact that they often clog and no longer allow water through the line, and they leak.

If you need a valve there to supply something like an ice maker or humidifier, then I'd cut the pipe, add a T, and put a proper quarter turn valve on the line.

To remove it, I'd just cut the pipe right on the piercing and install a copper coupling between the two cut pipes. The steps include: shutoff the water, remove the saddle valve (unscrew the two sides), cut the pipe, clean it, apply flux to the pipe and a copper coupling, fit them together, and solder the joint by heating with a blow torch and working solder into the joint from the opposite side. A skilled plumber should have the entire job done in under 30 minutes including setup and cleanup. For the DIY'er, you'll need the following tools and parts:

Copper pipe cutter

Fitting brush

Flux and solder

Blow torch

Copper coupling

Note, no affiliation or specific recommendation with any of the above brands, these are only sample images.


Easy enough

Simply uncoil and strip back the blue wire at the furnace end, then tuck it under the "24V COM" terminal there.  Then you can hook it up to the C terminal on your new thermostat and everything should work!


Can I run 2 wires from a 2 pole breaker to a single slot on my EV charger?

As a 240V load in the US, that takes two hots (from opposite legs of your service) - NOT hot and neutral. The two-pole breaker is exactly what you need. If you’re using cable with white/black/ground wires, you’ll need to re-mark the white to a hot color (such as red or black), and connect one to each pole of the breaker.
A 60A breaker on just 120V would not be done. A ~6KW load would have four times the voltage drop (and require larger more expensive wire) compared to the same power at 240V, so loads that big are always at the higher voltage.


Refrigerator seems to run continuously (or very long times)

If it's "bubbling" while it's running it could indicate improper charge. A refrigerant system should have liquid at the metering device. If there is still vapour in the mixture(saturation temperature) then you are loosing capacity which would explain the long run times. It doesn't mean there is a leak it just means that it's not running at full capacity.

In this image the metering device is an expansion valve. www.wikipedia.com

It gets pretty complicated but to aid you in your search for the problem if something you try makes the bubbling sound go away you may be on the right track. Keep in mind any changes to system take about 15 minutes to stabilize. Sometimes just pulling the fridge away from the wall does the trick. With fridge has bubbling often indicates too much heat overall in the system.


1/4" male compression end on inline water filter to 3/8" male compression (fine threads)

Since it seems that you already have the lines, I think all you need is a compression adapter fitting like this:

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-6759-4-Inch-Compression-Adapter/dp/B008E5CFC4/

It will screw onto the female 3/8" compression on the drinking water faucet and allow you to connect a 1/4" compression line to it (from the filter).

This is one of the most commonly sold compression adapter at Home Depot, so anyone in plumbing should be able to point you to it (if you're in the US... I'm sure Lowes and others sell it to.  Quite common.


The threaded connection of the basket to the tail piece should have some Teflon tape wrapped around the threads before it is threaded together.

It needs to be taken apart and the tape installed correctly.

It should be the responsibility of the person who did the work incorrectly.


Plywood over rigid foam over concrete: will I have moisture issues?

If you have water problems in your basement, look to the exterior of the house for solutions.  Mainly, get water to flow away from or around the foundation.  If water is building pressure behind the concrete, it's only a matter of time before it finds a way in.  In a high-precipitation area, painting the inside of the basement is unlikely to stop the water for long.  If the sealing fails, then you have water trapped behind the foam and that's going to lead to other (smelly) problems.  Previous owners of my home tried to seal the basement from the inside and it simply led to the deterioration of the concrete  at various points.

If you have an old drain-tile setup with actual ceramic drain-tile, get it updated.  The whole strategy of those systems was often inherently flawed.


Yeah, it sounds like you're going to want to basically remove and re-install. The good news is that gutter is actually somewhat flexible, so you'll probably be able to make the adjustments without fully removing all the pieces.

Cleaning the debris from the gutters is definitely a good idea, but it'll accumulate again. If you can get enough slope in the gutters then rainfall might be able to clean some of the debris automatically -- but the shingle sand will always have to be cleaned out manually. Cleaning the gutter before you begin will reduce the weight you have to deal with while working, too.

Yes, you can make an A profile with a middle hill. There are reasons why this is sometimes done but they don't apply on this job. When a gutter is very long or serves a large roof area (ie collects a large volume of water) it can be necessary to divide it into multiple zones. This is the case on my shop building -- it's 51 feet long. With a single slope the gutter would have to hang below the fascia at one end and the collected water would overwhelm the single downspout. Instead that gutter is crowned in the middle and the two ends drop half as much. Where your side A is only 15 feet long this isn't necessary -- but it won't hurt if you want to do it anyway. As I mentioned, gutter is somewhat flexible, so you'll be able to set the center at 1/4 to maybe 3/8 or even 1/2 inch higher than the ends without needing any joint.

Again, because gutter flexes, I think you'll be able to progress from the midpoint of A around the corner and down the B/C sides by unscrewing the hangers some 6-12 feet ahead of where you're working. If you're really lucky you might not even damage the sealant between the corner pieces and the straight sections. If it doesn't work out, complete removal followed by re-install is always an option.

It can be tricky to get the slope of the gutter "just right." Fortunately, it mostly doesn't matter -- just don't make any bellies (low spots). A water level could come in handy. This is a stunningly low-tech, inexpensive, simple tool you can build yourself. It's harder to describe in words than it is to use.. maybe look for a youtube video. You'll need a bucket and a hose. Clear vinyl tubing is great, but if the distance is longer than the amount of clear tubing you're willing to buy, then get a section 10 feet or so and attach it to the end of a garden hose or whatever you already have.

To set up and use the water level:

Secure one end of the hose in the bucket, and position the bucket so it's about eye level. In this case, that would be somewhere near the level of the gutter.
Fill the bucket with water to about 3/4 of capacity.
Fill the hose with water, taking care to purge all air bubbles. Run pressurized water from the end of the hose back into the bucket, or siphon water out of the bucket through the hose.
Move the end of the hose and watch the level of the water through the clear tube. No matter where you take it, the water level in the tube will stay perfectly level with the water level in the bucket.
Take care to not allow any water to drain or spill from the system, nor to move the bucket. All of these will cause the reference level to change, and measurements at the new level can't be compared directly with measurements at the old level.
Fix some kind of measurements to the tube. I like to tape it to a yardstick, but tape or pen marks on the tube work too.

With a bit of math you can work out the relative elevation for any point along the path of the gutters.


Can NCV tester show presence of Knob & Tube wiring?

Yes your testing plan can work but you will need a load on the circuit to be sure. With no load on the circuit the NCV will only detect the hot, if the circuit is daisy chained as long as the last receptacle or outlet in the chain is loaded there should be the return voltage on the neutral and the tester should detect it. No load and only the hot will be detected so it would look like it was updated but may be K&T.
I have always liked using a plug in light but today’s LED’s may not have enough to be detected the field may be weak, a 60w lamp or a hair drier On low will work well .


What is a 'grounded neutral' and how bad is it?

That explanation doesn't really make any sense to me personally.  The neutral bus bar in your main panel should be bonded to the ground bus bar so in effect, all neutral wires in your house are grounded.

The third prong in a typical three prong outlet is known as the equipment ground.  This is a safety feature that should cause your breaker to trip if an electrical fault inside of an appliance causes the metal body of the appliance to become energized.  The equipment ground protection however is a safety feature for YOU so that you won't be electrocuted in the case of an appliance fault.  It doesn't and shouldn't make any difference at all do the proper functioning of an appliance.

If an appliance you (recently purchased, older appliances may not have the same quality standards!) purchased has only a two prong plug, then it is essentially assured to not be an electrocution hazard in the case of an electrical fault, or it is not capable of having such a fault.

So basically what I am saying, the appliance you are talking about would never have been grounded anyway if it has a two prong plug.  Grounding has nothing to do with the failure of your appliance.

You must have misheard because perhaps the tech support person meant to say "Ungrounded Neutral" which potentially could be a problem for sensitive electronics.  The neutral (connected to the center tap in the main panel) can and does carry an electrical charge, so the neutral bus bar should be grounded to the outside through the use of a grounding rod to bring Neutral to Earth Ground.

If your home was built in 1959 then it is possible that the grounding rod was never placed deep enough into the earth to provide proper grounding, or perhaps it rusted away over time.  How far the grounding rod needs to go depends highly on the region you live in too. I used to live in a home built in 1958 and had a similar problem. A qualified electrician would be able to fix this for you, or an adventurous DIY'er.


Want to add a WIFI thermostat, but no 'C' wire... only 2 wires to each thermo

The "C" in C-Wire stands for "Common", so what you propose should work.  The 24VAC transformer has two wires coming from it.  One of the wires goes to the thermostat and that is what the thermostat actually switches on and off.  The other wire is typically labeled as "common" and it goes directly to the relay(s) that the thermostat controls.

To say it another way... older thermostats didn't need power to run, so only having one wire from the transformer was fine.  For a new powered thermostat, you need both wires from the transformer, and that's all the C-wire is - the "other" wire from the transformer.


The fact that this "gunk" keeps building up is a sign that there is an underlying cause you've not found.

I'd get an electrician with hot tub experience to take a look. It might be something simple, but with electricity and water you don't want to get it wrong.


Are there outward signs of a French drain?

To tell the truth a really good French drain install will have no evidence with the exception of the water exit point. In some cases you may see a brown stripe through the lawn but not in all climate zones. A stripe that is brown is one way to tell but not always there. It is much like a leach field in some areas they are green above the drain field and some are brown it depends on the soil and local clean mate and rain / heat.


How can I safely repaint/fix peeling latex paint that was painted over lead paint?

A great many things will soften or dissolve latex paint without ravaging the underlying layer.

The more fundamental problem is you will need a scuff-sand to get anything to bond  to the old paint.  Paint cannot bond to gloss, it needs to be microscopically rough, or visibly "flat".

Scuff sand with a Scotchbrite "green" pad, same green/yellow sponges you use on pots and pans. You can prevent dust by doing this wet, wash contaminated water down a city sewer, and sponges in the trash.  Don't overdo it - you're not trying to level the surface, just degloss it.

That thing you are thinking makes the new paint bind to the old: that's not what primer does, it's what scuff sanding does.  Normal primers can't do that, they also need a deglossed surface to bite into.  Primer does other stuff.

There is no chemical that can fix the current problem.  I.E. imagine you have 4 coats

topcoat
???
recent paint that isn't sticking
glossy or contaminated old paint

You're imagining a product at #2 that can fix the fact that #3 and #4 are delaminating.  Doesn't exist. Even at "professionals only" paint stores. All that will happen is that 1 2 3 will peel off together.

Now are you 100% sure that top layer is leaden?  Hard to believe it hasn't been painted since lead was banned. If it did last 40 years, that's the power of a good oil (alkyd) paint.  That durability has nothing to do with lead, lead was a pigment.  Luxury homes still use oil paints especially for trim.  If you can't afford top tier painters to come in, then you're the painter and nothing keeps you from doing top tier work.

Unlike latex, super stinky oil paints are normal.  The solvents are somewhat toxic, but they stop being harmful long before they stop offending the nose.  Also they are not bioaccumulators like lead is, so once you stop using them, your body's immune system will flush out any toxins.  Paint them with good ventilation.


Shopvac drywall attachment too restrictive?

I find the models that use filters plug up quickly. A contractor friend showed me what he had made using a 5 gallon bucket and plumbing fixtures. one pipe goes in and a 90 at the bottom of the bucket capped off then drill a bunch of 1/4" holes in the short pipe at the bottom. fill the bucket 1/2 way with water the suction pipe is short only 1" from the top the dust comes in and when bubbling up through the water the dust is trapped in the water, when you notice dust rinse and put fresh water in the bucket works great and no filters to buy. I have had mine for a few years. If cleaned at the end of the day it is not hard to clean if you forget it is a lot more work to clean out.


How can I prepare this concrete floor for tile?

Putting tile over a painted surface can be risky. Sure looks like removing all that paint would be a chore and maybe hazardous (lead based paint if pre 1978).  We have put tile over such surfaces by roughing it a bit and putting a scratch coat of "floor patch and leveler"  over the entire surface. This is a good bonding agent on stable subfloors.

Another very good alternative is to use one of the new no-mortar interlocking tile products. These are tiles mounted on an interlocking plastic base that just snap together. They are very quick and easy to install. There are several different brands, tile material and backer types available. There is an article about these type of tiles, on Good Housekeeping.

Google "no mortar tile". Lots of articles on the subject


The small appliance requirement is for the kitchen counters 2 as 20 amp circuits. If you want you can add a circuit for the bar but it would not be required.


What is the best method of filling the gaps in wooden floors?

If your floors are "set" meaning that the gaps are consistent through out the year I would advise the following.

the best thing you can do is add wood strips to your floor.  So you would cut out parts of the existing planks with a circular saw (set to the depth of the wood so you dont cut other things) and notch out a few planks - dremel might help here too.  Then add wood strips to fill in the blanks.  Nail them down and seal them.  You are fixing a poor install.  The wood didn't acclimate or had way too much moisture when it was shipped.  You didn't have it sitting outside right?
and if you don't want to go the permanent and correct route...  then I would personally buy some bondo wood filler, some colorant to match your existing hardwoods, and poly.  Fill your gap with the bondo to about 80-90%.  Put on a second coat (next day) with colorant that is level with floor or a little higher.  Sand it flat. Several coats of poly.  If you use cheap wood putty you will have cracking and dry ugliness.


Is a crack in my home's floor slab a concern?

Slab cracks like this are common and usually not a problem. If there is rebar or steel mesh in the slab it will usually just crack over time but the rebar or mesh provides the strength to stay in place. If the slab starts settling or shifting then there is a problem and the cause needs to be identified like a leaking pipe or drain taking the soil away that would need to be fixed first then the slab repaired. If it was an original failure to prepare the site grout can be pumped through the slab to correct any settling but your crack looks normal and like it has not shifted so I would not worry about it.


20 year old home with ceiling cracks getting worse

While I do agree with all of the comments above. Yes, it must be addressed immediately. And yes, the foundation may very well be perfectly fine.

However, obvious increasing size and door operation changes are absolutely not normal settling.

It could be from bad framing --- Structure that was meant to sit on a stud or beam wasn't and was only held by nails.

Water Leak --- Roof or plumbing leak could have rotted wood or metal of a joist hanger.

Excessive load --- May be from remodeling that removed structure or didn't consider structure concerning the load above.

Poor support --- Maybe a shim wasn't installed under mis-measured and/or cut framing or a support post wasn't simply tightened up to what it was to support.

Other trades --- Plumber, Electrician or HVAC may have comprimised the structure in completion of their task. Very common and very overlooked.


It turns out the problem was the meter.  The water heater's breaker box wasn't getting any power from the meter, and so the water heater had no power.  This explains why I never read any real amount of voltage anywhere.  Electric company sent someone over to resolve it.


Adding a utility sink drain to the main to the main cast iron stack

My understanding is that saddle wyes are prohibited under most codes, but you should check with your local jurisdiction to be sure.

The usual way is to support the pipe top and bottom, cut out a section, and then put in the new wye with hubless rubber connectors.


Can I replace the wax gasket without lifting the whole toilet?

Thinking you are looking to just replace the tank gaskets, here is the scoop.  There is no wax seal between the tank and bowl, there is usually a neoprene or rubber gasket that needs to be the right size and shape for the model of toilet you have. You should also replace the mounting bolts and the rubber gaskets around them also at the same time.  As far as trying to lift one side at a time, i guess that could be done if both bolts were removed and you tilt the tank enough to clearly see the tank drain hole and properly insert the new seal. Of course, it is better to install the seal into the tank and lower it square onto the bowl opening then install the new bolts and gaskets.  The real issue is to be sure the new main gasket is seated squarely so it will seal properly. Be careful tightening the tank bolts. They need to be firm to the point where there are no leaks and the tank is level, but not too tight as over tightening these bolts can crack the tank or mounting flange on the bowl.

Maybe you can find a strong friend to give you a hand with this tricky job. It isn't a difficult task, but might be frustrating if you can't remove the tank, clean the drain hole and install the new gasket at a more convenient working angle.


Is there any way walls that don't go to ceiling are load bearing?

The beam at the top of the picture is almost certainly structural - it appears to be the bottom of a ridge beam for the cathedral ceiling that has had trim applied to it. The only other way to keep a cathedral ceiling from pancaking and thrusting the walls out is run perpendicular ties between the walls.

As for the wall, there is no way that this is structural at any point underneath the transom (the area at the top where it is open between the two rooms). There's simply nothing there for it to be bearing a load for.


Why is cold water coming out of my HW OUT-TAKE pipe?

If this happens when all of the faucets in the house are closed, it would have to be a mixing valve of some sort.

If any single spout faucets are open (perhaps you had them open to bleed air out of the lines), they will allow water to move between the hot and cold sides if both valves are open (normally, this doesn't happen, because both sides are pressurized equally, so all the water comes out the spout).

A smaller possibility would be a recirculating pump that is meant to make sure there's ready hot water at a distant fixture -- these usually work by pumping water from the hot pipe near the fixture back into the cold near the tank.   It's possible that water could move backward through that in your situation.

I would check that all valves are closed (including making sure the clothes washer is off, since it could be trying to mix hot and cold) and then test again.


How to wire 2nd light to existing circuit with light and two 3-way switches?

I ultimately was not able to resolve the wiring problem given the current set-up and the wiring in place.

However, I did end up purchasing two sets of https://www.amazon.com/RunLessWire-Simple-Wireless-Switch-Kit from RunLessWire directly ($99.99+s/h each), linked both wireless switches to both relays, removed the existing switches and shorted the appropriate wires, and 2 hours later, I had a working set-up!


First call is to the local building department, to find out what is allowed in your area. Some places let you fill them, others make you remove them.

If you have to remove it, you'll have to check if it's empty. If not, you'll have to call somebody out to pump it. Once empty, you'll have to call a bunch of people with shovels, or somebody with a really big shovel.  You'll also need somebody with a crane, and a big truck to haul it away.  You could ask at the building department for references for local companies that might offer removal service.

If you can fill it, follow the filling instructions of the local building department


Say you have an 8 inch diameter duct.
Then the circumference is 25.13 inches (you can find the formula online).
Get a thin strip of paper 30 inches long.
Make two dots 12.56 inches apart on it (half the circumference).
Wrap the paper around the duct and tape it.
The dots are where you drill.
Sort of like this:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XsBwEmFO_w


Using 3" (or 4") recessed lights with GU10 bulbs for ambient (not accent) lighting

The light fixture you are showing are for retrofit installed through a hole. If the basement is unfinished you can just use 4" can lights for new construction. Then you don't have to throw away the halogens and can choose the color of your LED light kits from 3000K to 5000K whatever pleases you.

As far as the spacing, the picture you show looks like way overkill to me. You could use half that many lights for ambient lighting in a basement, especially with the newer 12 watt LED's at 650 lumens. A Google of halogens shows 50 watt lamps produce 430 lumens at 2750K so they are yellower and dimmer and use much more electricity.

The spacing doesn't look right by the rule of thumb. It looks symmetrical but the rule is to space the fixtures in the middle of the room double the distance the first fixture is from the wall. More to the point, if the first fixture is 2 feet from the wall the next fixture is 4 feet away from the first. Since there is no light at the wall the first one needs to be closer to the wall. From there you are always between two lights so they can be further apart since they light the room from both directions.

Good luck with your project!


How can I get low water pressure in sprinkler system fixed?

Clogged line
There could be a clog in the lines feeding some of the sprinklers, or clogged up sprinkler heads.

Remove all the sprinkler heads (the procedure will vary based on the type of heads).
Inspect and clean the heads.
Turn the system on.

If you don't notice any dirt or gunk coming out, and the pressure does not increase in the low flowing outlets. Cap the working outlets, and turn the system back on. If you still don't notice a difference, you might have to dig up the lines to inspect them.
Damaged line
The line feeding some of the sprinklers could have been crushed, damaged, or broken.

Cap the working sprinklers.
Turn the system on.

If the pressure in the low flow heads does not increase, you'll likely have to dig up the lines and inspect them.
Not enough pressure
It could just be that the system does not have enough pressure for all the heads to work simultaneously.

Cap one of the working sprinklers.
Turn on the system.
Repeat.

If each time you cap an outlet you notice the pressure increase in the low flow heads, it could be that there is just not enough pressure to operate all the heads at once. In this case you might have to have the system split into zones, and only run one zone at a time.


Leaky drain, round 2: Trap joint won't stop leaking

I'd say take it all out and start over. Avoid RTV and flexible fittings. Put a standard tailpiece onto the sink, a starndard trap like brhans mentioned, and a slip nut on the pipe going into the wall. Then it will easier to take apart and clean. Or take apart in case you drop something value able down there. Google image search "standard p trap setup". Or just look under somebodies sink.


Basement cinderblock wall tops - cover or fill

If it were my house, I'd get several bags of Quikcrete and take the time to carefully shovel it in there with a small garden hand-shovel and maybe some sand.  Quikcrete is cheap, reinforces your foundation from other problems, and fills the air gap.  No gap, no problems.  Then like you're doing now for rodent control and insulation.  Unfortunately, I can't back this solution up with experience.


Why does the pilot light keep going out on my natural gas boiler?

Most pilot light devices have a sensor that detects that the pilot light is lit, and will shut off the pilot gas if it doesn't detect the lit flame.

This sensor must heat up in order to detect the flame, so after you light your pilot light, keep the pilot valve depressed for 30 seconds in order to ensure the sensor heats up.  After 30 seconds, release the valve.  If the light still goes off, repeat 1 or 2 more times.

Once the light stays lit, turn the valve to the ON or OPEN position and the pilot light will stay lit.

If the light refuses to stay lit even after several minutes of hot flame hitting it, then yes, you may have a defective sensor or other part.


where can I buy a new trim for my bath plughole?

Before you replace it, you may just need to take the fitting off and reseal it.

Every fitting is different, most hold the screen on with a screw and then the fitting itself unscrews from a thread adapter on the drain pipe. Once its off scrape off any old sealant. Make a 'snake' (like you did with clay as a kid) out of plumbers putty and lay that as a ring around the drain fitting. Screw your drain fitting back in and wipe up the excess putty.

How old is old? 10 years? 15? 20? 50? 100?

Pics would help.


I just did closed-cell spray foam in my attached garage.

There is a bedroom above (to the left of the I-beam in the photo), while the front sloping part is a hot roof (see Do I need to add roof vents if I close off a small attic space in the garage? for detail/pics).

In your case, you should decide if you want the attic space to be 'conditioned' space or not -- You should not have insulation in both the ceiling and on the roof. That will just create different thermal zones, which can mean you have different places for condensation to form, which means you can get mold. Without actually conditioning (heating or AC) the garage itself, which one is hotter and/or more humid at any time will change throughout the year, and I think having two layers of insulation is just going to cause problems.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'aluminum sheets' -- perhaps you are referring to foil-faced Polyisocyanurate? The foil in that case forms a radiant barrier -- in the case of attic space, I'm not clear on if this would actually make a noticeable benefit. Polyiso does have a very high R-value per inch (near that of closed-cell foam) so it may make a good choice anyway regardless of the foil -- but cost and value are at issue (I'm not sure how it compares cost-wise to regular XPS).

Keep in mind that if you're using any type of foam boards between rafters, that the rafter itself will not be insulated, so you only get the insulation value of the wood itself. This is one of the benefits of spray foam (and the reason I went with it) -- you get a complete thermal break, and it fills all the crevices. Expensive, but they did my entire garage in about 4 hours (including setting up and cleaning up, and encasing some duct work that hangs below the ceiling joists).


How can I connect this washing machine outlet to the drain?

No, no, no!

You need to install that tall open pipe. Washing machines do not work correctly without one, and the associated air-gap between the washer drain and the drain-pipe. You'll have a fun time siphoning your washer with the setup you propose.


What paint should I use over decorator's caulk so that it matches the surrounding area?

The caulk mentioned in your comment appears to be a typical latex "painters caulk". It should accept paint just fine, with no bleed-through. I'm not sure what's happening in your case.

I'd get a quart of a high-grade primer such as a Zinsser product. There are plenty of good ones. Cover just the caulk and blend into the wall. Let that dry well and try your topcoat again.

If you painted over the caulk entirely you may need to use a paint remover to clean that up first.


What is recommended method to fix sunken garage floor slab?

I’m guessing that slab is on the ground floor .If so, and then from my experience it is much cheaper and easier to make a new than to fix the old slab. Firstly, you should smash the old one and then check groundwork under the slab. If it is not quality (well compacted) then you should pour some Breakstone, gravel and compact it as much as possible. Then you can work on a slab. It should be at least 15cm thick (round 6 inches if you are in US) and make sure that you use reinforcement; you can use either bars or net. At  this stage you must make a decision if you want to make a slab „floating“  meaning separated from the walls, or you should place some steel bars from the foundations of  the walls to the slab. This way they would be connected, act as a moonlit structure. But unless you have a problem with underground water, or anything that could cause negative pressure maybe you can go with „floating“  slab; in which case you should use something to separate slab from the walls while you are casting concrete, something like very thin Styrofoam placed on the walls.


Can I put a PVC coupling in my vent stack?

I'd opt for the PVC coupling and certainly that's going to be less expensive than one of those rubber couplers.  In most places they are acceptable but many require the kind with the metal sheath:


Does this ventilation duct in your closet have an opening into your room?

The most effective method for reducing this odor would be to first identify any air leaks in the shared wall. Insulation will do very little compared to sealing. Leaks are probably the reason you are able to smell the odor to begin with as odors should really not be able to penetrate solid surfaces. Most common sources of air gaps are around electrical outlets, the baseboard where the wall meets the floor, and ventilation outlets. These air gaps can be sealed easily with silicone caulk.

I need a more detailed description of what exactly is going on with this duct in your closet. Is this purely for exhaust/air circulation, heating, or cooling? How easily can you hear noises coming from your neighbor's domicile? There may be serious issues in your home that may be unrelated to your neighbor's living habits. You may have a dead animal or mold hidden somewhere. I absolutely would not do anything you suggested in your initial question. Please provide more details!


That looks like a Euro cylinder lock. You can remove it by undoing one bolt in the edge of the door then insert the key, turn an eighth of a turn and pull the cylinder out. Then measure the lengths in the diagram below. Or just measure externally.

You should get an anti-snap lock which means you need to specify which of the measurements applies to the outside facing end.

P.S. The outside end of the lock cylinder should not project from the surface of the surrounding faceplate, get a shorter one if you can (though they are only available in 5mm increments). This affects security.

P.P.S. Locks vary a lot in price but this lock is protecting all your belongings so it is probably worth spending extra on a good lock. Look for the TS007 3 Star standard and kitemark.

Top: 35/35 British Oval cylinder with thumb-turn (see also Scandinavian oval cylinders)
Middle: 50/40 Euro-profile cylinder (AKA Euro-cylinder)
Bottom: 0/35 Euro-profile half-cylinder

Features:

The threaded hole is for the retaining screw.
The middle lock has the cam (actuator) in-line with the hull, in this position the whole cylinder can be pulled out (if the screw has been removed).
There are blanking plugs in the holes which contain the key-pins, driver-pins and springs. These particular cylinders are not designed to be re-keyable.
The reason I have these loose and not in use is because they have no anti-snap features and are mostly trivial to pick also.


Sewer backup through basement floor drain after heavy rain

I realize that this response is about 3.5 years after your original post was published, but I thought I would add my knowledge/experience to possibly help the next guy.
I to live in Ohio (southwest) in a house built in 1963, and I believe I have the same set up as you.  I also just had a backup after a hard rain.
All of the following information is specific to my house, but I believe it will be applicable to you.  The pipes coming into the pit are from the foundation drainage system around the house.  The foundation drainage system directs rain water to this pit.  The drain at the bottom of the pit connects directly to the main sewer line of the house.  The main sewer line of the house is connected to the city sewer.
In a perfect world all rain water around the foundation of the house would gather in this pit, then drain to the city sewer.  This arrangement is not much different than modern setups, it just does not have a sump pump because the house is high enough to use gravity to drain to the city sewer.
In a unperfect world your house main sewer line could be partially plugged with roots (this was my problem).  When your house main sewer line is partially clogged and there is a hard rain, the discharge of the pipe simply cannot keep up with the new rain water coming in.  This is what caused my back up.    Being that the pit drain is connected to the house sewer line, that explains how organic matter makes its way into the pit during a backup (rain water and sewer using the same pipe).
At my house, I would not call the drain at the bottom of the pit a “whole house trap”.  Rather just a trap connecting foundation rain water system to the sewer line.
I have the same drain in your photo.  There is a ball in my drain.  The ball is supposed to act as a one-way check valve.  I was able to snake my drain out by pushing the ball to the side and by using a very small snake.  I should add, the ball in my drain was stuck and needed to be forcibly dislodged before I could snake.  Before I snaked my pit drain I used to have standing water as well.  After dislodging the ball and snaking, I no longer have standing water in the pit.
Hopes this helps someone understand an old house system in the future.  Thanks


Where is residential power voltage reduced to home level from the street line level?

The power delivery utility company distributes the AC power to locations away from the power generating stations using high voltages. This is done to help minimize the amount of power loss in the distribution wires and cables. The power loss is always related to the amount of current being distributed to the loads. For each doubling of the voltage used in the distribution network the amount of current for the same load is cut in half.
The voltage levels used will depend in part upon the type, location and distance that section of the power grid needs to deliver electrical power to the consumer loads. Voltages can be in the 1000s of volts.
When high voltage power distribution reaches a residential neighborhood or a business center transformers are used to step the high voltage down to the voltages used in the homes and businesses. Pictures of some typical power transformers are shown below. Typically these transformers are owned and maintained by the power delivery utility company. When you would need service at a particular current level the power company will deploy the proper transformers and then provide a power line connection from the transformer to the electrical usage meter which would be on or adjacent to the home or business.
Typical Transformers:

Picture Source

Picture Source

Picture Source


What AWG should I use between a 200A main panel, a generator switch and a 100A sub panel

The exception for using #4 on 100 amps only exists for the service or feeders that carry the entire load of the premises.

310.15(B)(7) 120/240-Volt, 3-Wire, Single-Phase Dwelling Services and Feeders.
For individual dwelling units of one-family, two-family, and multifamily dwellings, conductors, as listed in Table 310.15(B)(7), shall be permitted as 120/240-volt, 3-wire, single-phase service-entrance conductors, service-lateral conductors, and feeder conductors that serve as the main power feeder to each dwelling unit and are installed in raceway or cable with or without an equipment grounding conductor. For application of this section, the main power feeder shall be the feeder between the main disconnect and the panelboard that supplies, either by branch circuits or by feeders, or both, all loads that are part or associated with the dwelling unit. The feeder conductors to a dwelling unit shall not be required to have an allowable ampacity rating greater than their service-entrance conductors. The grounded conductor shall be permitted to be smaller than the ungrounded conductors, provided the requirements of 215.2, 220.61, and 230.42 are met.

I added the bold print emphasis in the article.
You would have to use #3 for the feed. Notice the last sentence if you want to downsize the neutral. Check those articles first.
Good luck and stay safe!


TLDR: the information you quoted specifies a brand of paint, not a color.  Even if it did, it wouldn't be available or wouldn't match. Better off taking a 1" square sample to the store - they can match it.

Here's the problem.  Pigments are not stable.  Any paint formula is expressed in ratios of pigments. Pigments disappear, because they outlawed a toxic pigment, the company got merged into another company who consolidated pigments, they altered the pigment families to be compatible with another paint chemistry that company also sells, etc.

Formulas are a table of pigment types and amounts (within a particular pigment system).  Paint codes like 43-6010 or G3144 require looking in the book to see what the formula is.  Likewise those silly little names they give colors, like Plum Orange or Ratatouille.

And even if they still have the formula and pigments for "Firefly", old paint changes color.  It changes in the can, on the wall, and even on the drift card in the manufacturer's file.  Even if you got the right formula, it might only match under the outlet covers.

This pigment thing is a nightmare.  Paint manufacturers don't want to deal with consumers expecting them to match a paint code from years ago. So they all say the same thing: "bring us a sample, we'll match it."  And that, they can do.  The scanners are very good.

Even within "makes" of paint, there are "models" of paint.  For instance Sherwin Williams makes good, better and best interior and exterior latex (we're not even talking glossy vs satin).  They make low-VOC formulations.  They also make alkyd enamels and 2-part epoxy garage floor paint. In the industrial world, a lot more.

From what you say from your spec sheet, it sounds like it gives only the make and model of paint.   That's to assure the homeowner a quality paint was used.  Nothing there sounds like a formula, nor a paint code, nor even a silly color name.

Even the "Designer's White" refers to a base, which is meant to be custom tinted at the store.  It is saying there's enough white pigment in the can already that you could paint it directly, and will require less custom pigment if your final goal is a soft, near-white pastel.  That is not true for the vivid-color bases, which have almost no pigment, to avoid washing out the bold oranges, blues or whatever that will later be added.

They are correct: there's no paint color code there.


Hidden fasteners for 1/2" spacing between decking boards?

Most of the deck brackets are installed board at a time, and the last bracket holds the next board.

The Shadoe Track however is a continuous rail, with conventional screws from below.  It can be set at any spacing.


Grout spacing for large format wall tiles

I think that 33.3 cm x 100 cm (13.1 inch x 39.4 inch) large format tiles will actually look good with a 3 mm (1/8 inch) grout line.

The builder is probably using clips to hold the tiles to the wall, and the ones I've used are thicker than 1 mm. These clips help make the tiles flush with each other as the tile adhesive/thinset dries. If they install them without using clips (or another system) it will be exponentially more difficult to install well.

If you want the grout spacing smaller than 3mm, I would ask the builder what the smallest spacing they can do without extra work with their clip system, and ask them if it's possible to use another clip system that would work better?


Do I need a separate switch leg for a light and a fan in a combo fixture?

Depending on the switch type you feed the switch with the line side or hot/ black wire then the other side(s) are the switched legs that go to the light/fan. The neutral or white wire and ground don't go through the switch. The neutral and ground are usually pig tailed and run to the light/fan with the switched leg.12-3 or 14-3 with a ground will provide wires to run your light&fan neutral and ground there is also 12-4 & 14-4 that will allow for the 3rd device since you said triple rocker. Make sure to turn the breaker off when wiring.


Why can't SharkBite plumbing connectors be sold in CA and VT?

It must be the lead, because http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/lead-free-fittings is advertising lead free fittings and leads with this line:

  As of January 1, 2010, changes to California and Vermont laws prohibit
  selling any pipe, fitting, or fixture that is intended to dispense or
  convey drinking water and that has a weighted average lead content of
  more than 0.25% based on a wetted surface area calculation.

I would have expected another sentence in there saying "and these are lead free so it's fine" but there isn't that, just a bunch of pictures of individual fittings.


What flux should I use for copper that will be used for food prep?

All the flux is for is to make the solder wick around the copper more easily to give you a better join.

As long as you're using lead free flux, after you complete the solder joins, run the water for several minutes from each fixture and you're not going to have any worries.  People have been using flux w/ copper for decades now w/o any harmful side effects.


Can I plug my E27 bulb directly into my wall socket

Compact Fluorescent Lightbulbs

So long as the lightbulb is rated for 240V (and not 110V or 120V) it will work when connected as you suggest. In countries with 240V household outlets, retailers will normally supply lightbulbs rated for 240V. Check the packaging and the lightbulb itself - the voltage will be marked on them.

There is a manufacturer's datasheet for the part with EAN code 8710163224138. It says "• Voltage: 220-240 V" - so this is OK.

A home-made light fitting of this sort may not meet your local electrical safety code (i.e. law). Normally there has to be an enclosure designed for the purpose. The enclosure provides mechanical protection to the lightbulb (especially any glass parts) and provides some protection against people inadvertently touching parts that carry live current or which might do so in a fault condition.

You also need to pay attention to earthing any metal parts that are accessible.

In particular, compact-fluorescent lightbulbs of that sort are relatively delicate and, if broken, will leak mercury - which is poisonous. It is prudent to provide some protection in case the luminaire is accidentally knocked over or bumped into.

Other lightbulbs

Some lightbulbs are designed for low voltage. For example some desk-lamps use halogen bulbs that require 12V DC. These desk-lamps are supplied with a suitable transformer. These lightbulbs should never be directly connected to 240V AC.

These type of lightbulbs will never be provided in a E27 fitting. In general, you can be sure that any commercial lightbulb with an E27 fitting supplied in a well-regulated country by a reputable vendor is suitable for your local household electrical supply (e.g. 240V AC)

Other appliances

As you note, phone "chargers" and similar items contain a transformer that typically convert the household electrical supply (e.g. 240V AC) to a voltage suitable for the small appliance (e.g. 5V DC).


Do acrylic glu-up tub surrounds require backer boards, waterproof membrane underneath?

I use green board for this with redgard over in some cases (cheaper systems that don't overlap well).  My take on it is if there is a water issue.  I would rather the water be trapped in drywall and mold vs. drip down into stud bay and rot the wall or what is underneath it.

Taking out plastic sheets to repair a wall and adding more drywall is easy.  The alternative isn't.  Also my biggest concern with backer is the hollow sound it often projects when PVC surrounds are glued to it.  Sometimes it sounds/feels like you are in a tin can.

This is all opinion though and you can go with backer or greenboard and regard or not.  Local inspectors that I have dealt with don't care at all about whats behind tub kits.  They are fine with putting it directly on studs.  Really if installed right and caulked properly you shouldn't ever have a water issue.  That is why I choose to go with what gives the best experience.


How to install remote switch for ceiling fan?

While the picture is not quite clear, it looks as if the red wire on the left is connected with a wire nut to two black wires. The red wire on the right appears to go elsewhere (probably to the fan).

If so, the left wire is hot. This  can be confirmed by carefully turning the power to the fan on. Using a non-contact tester, the left red wire should show power, and the right should not.

If that tests out, turn off the power, connect the left red to the switch wire with the yellow label. Connect the right red wire to the switch wire with the blue label. Cover each connection with a wire nut.

Connect the green switch wire to the bare copper or green wire(s) that should be deeper in the box (ground). If there is no ground wire, attach the green wire to the box itself using a screw or grounding clip.

Remount the switch. Turn the power back on. Check the switch.

This is a fairly simple connection. However, it sounds like you have very little experience working with electricity. Be very careful! Make sure all connections are tight, and no bare wire is exposed (other than the ground). It is often a good idea to watch someone with some experience before trying projects out on your own.


What's the best tool for shoveling gravel?

A "sided" shovel (AKA coal or transfer shovel) is very efficient, especially if you have a hard, flat surface to shovel off of (plywood is great).


Should I primer my walls/ceiling before I spray on texture?

You should.

Something is needed to seal the new drywall.  Primer is much cheaper than paint.  The basic rule is if you want a wall to look uniform, you have to prime it first.

If this is a paint + texture can, when left unprimed, the drywall will suck all the paint from the texture into the wall, leaving an uneven mess behind.    If you're going to paint after applying the texture, I'd prime in between as well; the natural unevenness from the spray will lead to splotchiness.


What are the basic differences between a mesh and regular/iron pool fence?

Your iron fence, like this:

... Is the more traditional choice. A fence like this is going to be very durable, generally only requiring a coat of oil paint every few years and replacing minor touches like the caps on the posts. These are also generally more aesthetically pleasing as they are typically installed as part of the overall decor of the pool. However, iron fences are generally more expensive, especially as a retrofit; the normal installation method is to anchor the posts in concrete, which would require drilling through your existing concrete pad to set them. It's also possible and accepted to "surface-mount" this type of fence onto an existing pool deck using L-brackets welded to the posts and lag screws for wood, or concrete anchors for a pad. This isn't as strong, as the screws can pull out over time, but it's usually more than enough. Lastly, an iron fence hurts more to run into; they don't have much give (not any if properly installed, really).

A vinyl mesh fence, like this:

is a newer option. These generally cost less, are easier to install, and the aesthetic can be pleasing (instead of the thick iron bars, you have a filmy mesh, reminiscent of a privacy screen). Along those same lines, the mesh provides slightly less visibility than the iron, especially in low light. This can be a two-edged sword; the neighbors can't see you skinny-dip, but you may not see a child falling in the pool in the evening or at night. Before you go this route, ask the supplier for a demo panel you can set up between your pool and an indoor vantage point to check the visibility as the day progresses and make sure it's to your liking. The mesh has some give, so a young child running into it won't be injured as badly (it may still throw him back onto the ground).

On the downside, the mesh screens are more easily cut or torn, and if this happens the entire panel can rip in half allowing pets and kids into the pool area. Do not use these if you have big dogs that like to scratch on the back door; they'll do the same on these and break through pretty quickly. The mesh is replaceable, but it's a hassle and a safety concern. These fences generally come prefabricated for ease of installation, but that generally means there's one way to install them; anchored with L-brackets to your deck. An adult running full-tilt into a panel could break the fence down. And while they can look good, they can also look cheap (usually due to poor installation, or simply because a particular mesh fence product IS cheap).


All leather upholstery will eventually develop a significant collection of wrinkles and creases with continued use. How fast these develop varies by material thickness, fill firmness, tightness of the cover, and the amount of weight and use the surface is subjected to. This should be considered part of the charm and character of a natural material.

This also softens the leather and makes it more compliant and comfortable. Maybe some people see an old leather chair as an ugly wrinkled old thing. I see a charming, well used and loved chair that is invitingly soft and comfortable that exudes tons of character.


Is it possible to install backer-board on a curved surface?

I have used HardieBacker, Wonderboard and Durock and I'd use 1/4 Wonderboard in this application. IIRC, it is the most ductile (bends before it breaks) of the three. On a stair subject to being kicked, you may want to use two sheets of quarter inch (the same trick for bending drywall) with troweled mortar between them. Basically, backerboard easily lets you fake a "dry pack" mortar bed:

  Traditionally, for wet applications, the arguably proper method is a "dry pack" mortar bed sloped to a tile drain followed by a hot-mop asphalt application, followed by floated cement followed by tile set in thin-set mortar. It is a method that is quite labor intensive involving specific steps. This is still a common method for commercial and residential applications, but becoming less so with the advent of modern alternative materials and techniques. –  Jimmy Fix-it

The 'tar' waterproofing is accomplished by the application of an anti-water membrane over your backerboard; embedding fiber tape along any seams or cracks.

Even if one or both of the sandwiched backerboards does crack as you install it; the mortar will fill and set it back into a solid piece... hopefully. If the framing is sound, using screwed-down mortared-in-place backerboard and a liquid applied membrane will go a long way towards achieving a professional tile job.

This is all assuming you have a nice, gently curved plywood substrate that you can screw to every 6~8" and not just 16"oc studs.

Ditra mat is possibly what you could use but I never have, and therefore cannot attest to it's functionality nor whether it is applicable, vertically: (emctiles.co.uk)


20 amp circuit, so 20 amps (or more, but not less) for the thermostat.


How to replace a chain pulley for garage door?

Loosen the tensioning screw the BIG SHINY BOLT - lower left side of the rail guide in the image you posted. BEFORE YOU LOOSEN it ...
KEEP YOUR CHAIN IN POSITION. Put a nail through the slots from one end across the chain rail guide and tape it with duct tape or tie it - you could use a wire tie as well if you have one it is much easier.

There should be either a plate that your tensioning pulley is attached to via the bolt in the center of it - you should be able to unscrew it - keep in mind that it might be a left hand bolt AKA: LEFTY TIGHTY, RIGHTY LOOSEY - which is opposite of Standard Bolts which are called Right Hand - Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey.

So to test for Left Hand Bolt try turning 1/8 turn to the right and see if it loosens. Or check the service manual.

MAKE SURE THE GARAGE OPENER IS UNPLUGGED!

Loosening the jacking screw will allow you to remove the chain from the pulley. At this point you should be able to remove the entire pulley with jacking screw ;which might make it easier for you to see how the pulley is assembled in order to remove it, or you can unscrew the pulley. See an edited picture of your picture.


Metal glue that cures in coldish weather?

Just about any 2 part epoxy would meet your requirements. However, gluing both sides is asking for trouble in the future.
Couple of ways around this. You could use loctite blue (thanks @jwh20 for steering us away from red) on the grub screws, which would be reversible but more secure than your current setup. You could lightly dimple the axle with a drill bit so that the grub screw is more secure. Or both. (If it was me, I'd just use the loctite.)


AC Disconnect Ampacity - can fuse size be something other than 30 or 60 Amp?

Good news: you can go ahead with your plan

Unlike some utilities, FirstEnergy does not require solar/DER utility disconnects for single phase, self-contained-metering customers to be of a visible blade type, which means that your idea of using an AC disconnect box for this application is workable.  This is laid out in section 6.5 of the FirstEnergy Customer Interconnection Guide:

  6.5 DER installed at a single phase electric service location utilizing a self-contained company meter (usually 400A service size, or less), shall have a disconnect switch meeting the requirements of the NEC between the Company meter and the DER PoC. The switch shall be clearly marked, "Generator Disconnect Switch”, with permanent 3/8 inch or larger letters. The preferred location of the switch is outside the building in the immediate vicinity of the electric meter to facilitate access by Company personnel.

As to the headline question: yes, that's true as well

Given that you are getting a fusible disconnect, as non-fusible disconnects are also a thing, you can put smaller fuses in then the disconnect's amp rating, up to a limit (if you want to put a 1A fuse in a 60A disconnect, you'd need a set of fuse reducers for that).  Note that if you don't need to have overcurrent protection at that point, there's no reason not to get a non-fusible disconnect box vs. a fusible disconnect box as the non-fusible variety are somewhat cheaper and you don't have to worry about changing blown fuses in that case either.

Give me a sign, friend!

There is one thing you will have to do no matter what you buy, and that's go to your local trophy engraving shop and get them to engrave a plastic plate with the words "Generator Disconnect Switch" in letters 3/8" high or taller.  You'll then need to get a small hand-riveter and a couple of pop rivets and rivet the plate to the front cover of your disconnect box; this'll satisfy the permanent marking requirement imposed by FirstEnergy.


How do I get 150F water to the dishwasher?

You don't. Let the dishwasher do it for you.

I have read in a maintenance manual that the ideal temperature for incoming water to a dishwasher is 150F.

Was it a maintenance manual for your actual dishwasher? If not, I would ignore random advice (no better than advice from some stranger on the internet...).
Most dishwashers now automatically heat water as needed to the necessary temperature for optimum performance. This avoids exactly the problem you mentioned - water hot enough to clean effectively and to sanitize dishes is also hot enough to quickly burn people. Some dishwashers (I think typically European models) are even designed to run with cold water - heating water from cold to very hot as needed, not just hot to very hot. That being said, I would recommend connecting your dishwasher to the hot water line rather than the cold water line, unless your manufacturer specifically recommends otherwise, because:

Electric heat is generally more expensive than natural gas or other forms of heating. If your main water heater is electric then any heating by the dishwasher will cost the same as your main water heater, and if your main water heater is something else then any heating by the dishwasher will cost more. I can't see any normal scenario where using your dishwasher to heat from cold to hot will actually save any money.
If your dishwasher runs some cycles without heating the water to very hot (e.g., perhaps a regular rinse cycle as opposed the main wash cycle or a final sanitary rinse cycle) then using hot water instead of cold water will be much more effective.


What is this fence-like feature on colonial roofs?

It's called a "Widow's Walk". The name stems from the fact that it was a prominent feature in homes near the sea, where wives of seafarers would (presumably) go to stare out at the ocean, hoping to see their husbands returning, but often finding out that they were widows.


Can AVR or loose speaker wires cause AFCI to trip?

A properly functioning audio/video amplifier should not cause AFCI trips
AFCIs work by monitoring the waveform of the AC power signal and looking for a particular type of distortion that is indicative of an electrical arc, and cutting power if that is seen.  This doesn't play well with every device -- some devices, such as brushed motors, have small electric arcs inside as part of their normal usage, and others such as dimmers, consume power in such a weird and inconsistent way that they can fool the detector.
However, none of these concerns apply to typical audio/video systems like you have.  In fact, audio amplifiers have quite a lot of filtering in the power supply section, to make sure that noisy incoming power won't be heard in the speaker output.  This same filtering means that the way audio amplifiers draw power is also very clean, and won't make any unusual noise on the AC line.  The video section of the unit is all digital electronics, and isn't any more likely to trip an AFCI than a regular computer.
Most likely, something is wrong with your AVR unit
The fact that the trip sometimes happens right away, and sometimes happens after a while makes me think it's likely your AVR does indeed have an intermittent fault internally.  My guess would be an insulation breakdown in the transformer somewhere.  Since devices this complex sometimes have several transformer windings for independent power supply rails, such a fault might not even cause the amplifier to stop functioning completely, but it is a real problem that the AFCI might detect.
Double check your grounding
This is a little more esoteric and less likely to be your problem, but for completeness I'll include it as well.  While most electrical equipment uses the ground wire only for safety purposes, audio equipment frequently also uses it for shielding of audio signals.  Often, the shells of all the HDMI and RCA plugs on the back are connected directly to the earth ground coming from the wall plug.  This then gives lots of opportunities for unusual signals to couple to the ground wire.
How does this affect AFCI?  If everything is wired correctly, it doesn't at all -- the AFCI doesn't look at the ground wire.  But if your outlet was wired with a bootleg ground, i.e. where the ground terminal is also connected to the neutral wire, then the AFCI will be able to see that ground noise, and it could interpret it as an arc.


How do I wire mutilple sections of lights with 3 way switches to same power source?

Your problem is that the run from the 3 switch box to the top of the stairs doesn't have enough conductors.  In addition to the hot and two switched you now have, you will need a neutral return for the new single pole section.

You could use conduit here, but there's no sense ripping out the 14/3 that's already installed.  Just run a 14/2 parallel to it as shown.

I'm guessing about which switches must control which lights, but here is a suggested wiring diagram:

B = black, W = white, R = red, where indicated.  Wires not marked in the diagram are all switched, so use whatever conductors are available, and please mark the ends of them with a bit of yellow tape for future maintainers.  And don't forget to hook up the equipment grounding conductors!

I have omitted the details of the lights wiring as you have already done these.

Pay special attention to the connections in section 1 as the neutral wire here is carrying the load for the entire basement.

Late Edit: I just noticed that in an earlier diagram I recommended what is a code violation in most places. Justin W. has long since finished or abandoned this project, but I don't want to mislead anyone else who might read this later.

I have modified the diagram to show which conductors should be parts of a cable, in order to satisfy modern code, balance the current flow in each cable, and avoid inductive heating, magnetic radiation, and excessive line losses.


You only have always-on power at the first switch (the 3-way by the door).  At the fan/light, you only have switched power, controlled by the two 3-way switches.  So, you need to run a 14/2 connected to the power coming from the panel (at the switch by the door) to the two closet switches to supply them with power.

You need two wires to have an electrical circuit - "hot" (black in house wiring) and "neutral" or "return" (white in house wiring).  When you wire a 3-way switch, you need an additional wire connecting the two switches:  The neutral wire is always connected, and the switches choose which of the two other wires to make the hot leg of the circuit.  When both switches are connected to the same wire, the load gets power (the light/fan comes on), when they are connected to different wires, the load is switched off because there isn't a complete circuit.

You could have an "always on" circuit at the light/fan, but you would need to run 14/4 - four conductors - between the two 3-way switches - neutral, plus the always-on hot lead, plus the two switched wires.  Then, from the second 3-way switch (the one connected to the light/fan), you would run 14/3 to the fixture, with neutral (white), hot (black) and switched (red).  At the fixture, you would connect neutral and switched to the light/fan to supply it with switched power, and you'd have the neutral and hot leads to continue to other uses, such as your closet lights.

That's not the way I would do it, though:  As I said, run a 14/2 to supply your closet lights, tapping off the mains at the 3-way by the door.  That avoids having to use 14/4 altogether, and you only need 14/2 going from the second 3-way to the fixture - neutral and a (switched) hot lead.

Referring to your diagram, instead of having a 14/2 going from the ceiling fixture to closet #2, have a 14/2 going from closet #1 to the switch by the door.  There, as I said, connect the new 14/2 to the wires coming from the panel for power.  No other changes are required from your plan.

Actually, you don't need two 14/3s, you only need one 14/3, plus a 14/2, going between the two 3-way switches because you don't need two neutral wires:

In this diagram, the blue lines represent the neutral (white) wires - which wouldn't show up well if they were white lines :)  The selection of whether to use red or black to connect the light and fan hot leads between the inside 3-way switches and the fixture is arbitrary - pick one that works.  As you can see, the white wire in the 14/3 between the 3-way switches is the neutral.  Assignment of the other four wires is also somewhat arbitrary, just be sure you have the switches connected in matched pairs.


Would an Elmer's wood filler color match a Minwax wood finish color?

Generally, you match the filler to the raw wood color as best you can. Then you stain and finish. But the results are definitely variable. If you are obsessive about making it match, I'd suggest a series of tests on similar wood with various combinations of filler, stain, and process.


Is it possible to install a low voltage motion sensor on 110v lighting?

Easy peasy, have the LV power operate a relay which switches the mains voltage.   Alternately you could use all low voltage LED lighting and avoid mains voltage entirely.


No water going to tank at all everything is new above ground

Check all the piping. There is probably a valve closed somewhere in the system that feeds the tank. If you had someone install this, get them back to check it out. Good luck.


The blocking needs to be nailed in place through the decking as well as on the ends, so when the diagonal is connected to the top of the blocking, it will be connected to the strongest point of the blocking.


How to finish bathroom vanity junction with the floor?

If you can mark the shims at the face of the cabinet, remove them temporarily, cut them slightly shorter than the mark, use a black marker to "paint the visible sides of the shims and set them back in about a 1/8" behind the face of the cabinet. Using a tube of clear water cleanup caulk, with the tip cut really small, say about 1/8" at the tip, draw a line around the bottom of the cabinet, filling the gap. Wipe the excess flush with the edges of the gap, leaving nothing on the adjacent surfaces of the cabinet or tile, the residue will show up in the glare from the lights in the bathroom.

FWIW, sealing the bottom with caulk may be good if the sink, waterlines or drain does not leak in the years to come. I would do a little here and there with the clear caulk at the escutcheons to keep the potential leaks in visible places, rather than running under a cabinet and collecting there. If the toilet floods, it is a good thing to caulk there, it is a bad thing if the drain or something else at the inside of the cabinet leaks. That is why I suggest the caulk here and there wiped with a damp sponge or cloth to keep the caulk in the joints only, and force a leak to show itself.

I see you have no base there yet, I would caulk the gap at the wall to the floor before you install the base. Just my 2 cents worth...