What's better for fence posts - wood or metal tbar?

If you can get black locust posts, they tend not to rot, or not for a long time. Most other wood posts rot, and rot faster in concrete, IME. Concrete offers no benefit over a properly tamped backfill of soil, in general. Steel posts rust, how fast depends on the climate (well, so does how fast wood rots, for that matter.)

Livestock may be more prone to chew on wooden posts, depending on the stock (swine, I'd suppose, by your username.) Pressure-treated posts can be bad for that reason.

Other than that, the choice comes down to cost, usually.


What kind of tool can I use to tighten a faucet bolt in a tight place?

I think that is a standard application for a "crows foot" wrench.


Can we build some sort of ventilation system in our rental apartment?

Is it sufficient to put a window fan in the window when cooking?

If not, there are ductless range hoods, also known as recirculating range hoods.  These filter the air and lets it back out in the room.


No ground wire connected to the 3-way switch

You could either use a self grounding switch, or use the other grounding screw to attach a pigtail out to the new switch.

To create the pigtail:

Get a short length of green or bare wire, the same size as the largest wire in the box.
Attach one end of the wire to the box using the screw highlighted above (remember to wrap the wire clockwise around the screw, and tighten the screw).
Attach the other end of the wire to the grounding terminal on the new switch (again wrapping in a clockwise direction, and tightening the screw).


Your post contains a picture that shows exactly how this will perform in drywall, and normally it works very well.

The first 3/8"-1/2" (closest to the screw head) of the anchor does not expand at all, so it won't damage the drywall.  The next 1/2" of the anchor is designed to twist and "knot up" in a hollow cavity, and the tip is designed to slightly expand, but hold the screw securely.

One very important detail that gives these types of anchors a bad name, is that they must be installed into a cleanly drilled hole of the exact right size.  Many people are sloppy with the holes, or just pick a drill bit that looks about the right size.

When the wrong sized hole is used, the "teeth" around the brand name in the picture don't hold strongly in the drywall, and the rest of the anchor will not twist and knot up properly in the wall.  The entire anchor could start twisting which will give the whole installation a loose feeling.

So, follow all the instructions exactly, and drill a clean hole in the right spot the first time, and enjoy.


Is exposed doorbell wiring in the garage dangerous?

Can you get electrocuted from exposed wires?

Yes, absolutely, if the wiring is powerful enough.  It's not necessarily very LIKELY that doorbell wiring is that powerful but it's possible, depending on how stupid the installer was.

As for putting a box over them - in the US exposed permanent wiring is a flat out no no.

But - based on your question - I'm going to assume that you have minimal to no experience with electricity, so I URGE you, do not try to DIY.  Hire a professional electrician.


6'' 11 Gauge HEAVY-DUTY U-Shaped Garden Staples


What tools do I need to cut flexible metallic conduit?

There are a number of ways to cut flexible metallic conduit (FMC), or cables made with interlocking armor, such as MC, AC, or old style BX.

The first thing to do is take a look at the stuff and see that it's a spiral construction - the edges of the spiral strip interlock.  You want to cut across the spiral strip.

This illustration shows the cut you want on old style BX cable, but the idea is just the same:

The simplest, fastest, most consistent way is with a specialty tool made by Seatek, the Roto-split:

The screw on the underside of the tool clamps the armor in place.  The crank handle turns a little circular metal cutting saw blade that cuts the spiral. There is a set screw that adjusts to limit the depth of cut.  You squeeze the handle to press the wheel down, crank, and stop when you get through the high part of the spiral strip.

You don't have to get all the way through the spiral, if you get most of the way through, you'll be able to untwist to separate, or bend the cable to pull apart at the cut, and untwist.

You can make the same cut the rotosplit makes with a hacksaw, but it's a little tricky holding the flexible cable in place while you make that cut.  But in the OP's case with just one cut to make, you could hold the piece in a vice or otherwise clamp it and carefully make the cut.

Another method works with nothing more than a pair of diagonal cutters / dikes.
 You bend the cable just sharply enough that the interlocking edges pull apart, then untwist to further separate the strip.  You can then clip the strip where it's pulled apart.

This is fast but a little sloppy - the armor will be a little mangled, you'll need to tidy up the cut ends by trimming off the mangled bit.  Luckily you'll have the right tool for the trimming handy, same set of dikes.  Personally I don't like this method with MC or AC cables, because occasionally you'll nick the insulation of the wires inside.  If I have to do more than a few cuts, I get the Roto-split.

No matter how you make your cut, the process leaves a very sharp edge on the metal close to the wires - too close for comfort.  The connectors used with FMC / MC / AC are often designed so that once the fitting is in place the wires don't contact the edge of the armor.  They also make anti-short bushings, little plastic split bushings that slide on the end of the armor:

Some consider anti-short bushings optional or unnecessary, I am in the camp that considers them required every single time, unless you're using screw in connectors, which are no longer popular, but provide the best possible protection for the wires:


What is the best kind of grass/seed for a completely shaded lawn?

It would help if you said where you are. However, if you're in the southern US, Saint Augustine would be a good choice. If you're in a cooler climate some types of Fescue might work for you. Another thing to consider would be a ground cover - perhaps Jasmine.


That's a keyhole slot for a screw. It's not specific to a modem (though I'll keep using the word here). In this case it's actually a double keyhole. The idea is that you put a screw into the wall with a head that just goes through the central circle, then slide the modem so that the screw head is trapped in the slot.

Normally you'd have at least two and the distance between them has to be spot on. Also they're normally set up so that you slide the modem downwards onto the screws. You also have to screw the screw in the right amount so it's secure and doesn't wobble.

Finding the right screw can be a little tricky especially if you have hollow walls that need some sort of anchor. But any hardware store should have something.


How should I paint around my newly hung doors?

Sounds like someone didn't clean the wall adequately, and/or didn't apply primer, before the previous coat of paint. If it doesn't adhere well, paint can flake or peel off.

However, if there isn't evidence of that the problem is propagating outward, I'd say the answer is just to do the touch-up properly: Clean with a mild degreaser, apply a good quality primer, and paint in matching color.

(The good news is that you can take one of those torn-off pieces into a paint store and say "match this color"....)


How can I fill wall screw holes so I can reposition the screws?

I'm not sure what "solid walls" meant in 1920's Germany but I'd guess it is either brick, concrete or building-blocks (aerated or aggregate blocks of varying density).

In general I've never found a way of filling such holes that would prevent a subsequent overlapping use of a masonry-drill from being deflected towards the old hole.

I'd consider

enlarge the hole to include the new position, the fill it so that the drill encounters only homogeneous material.
rotate the fitting 180 degrees.
move it all 1 cm vertically and/or horizontally.
use an intermediate mounting (e.g. a painted wooden plate)
buy a different fitting.


How to put vinyl click-together flooring up against cove base tile?

The only proper way to install a floating plank floor is UNDER the wall trim ( or cove base tiles in your case ) so that the expansion gap stays hidden under the trim as it fluctuates with expansion and contraction.

You can :

Remove the tiles and install the floor so it goes nearly up to the wall ( leaving an expansion gap ) that the tiles are mounted on. Since there are tiles above the ones you removed you will need to cut the cove tiles to fit back in place. The danger with this is it may not be possible to get every tile off with out breaking one or more.

OR :

Use a diamond masonry grinder wheel to carefully cut the bottom of the tiles off, install the floor so it goes under them and then use some quarter round or other molding at the transition of the tile and the floor.

Do they still manufacturer the tile ?, if so i would probably remove the cove tiles and then buy the non cove tiles and cut them to fit after the floor is installed and use some molding at the transition.


How can I determine the date of manufacture of drywall?

Usually the year the house was built is a good way to start, but if the drywall was added as a renovation, the date stamp is on the back side of the sheets. If you can get access, say in an attic space and move insulation if needed will get you there. If the back is not accessible at all, then removal of a big enough piece will show you that. Mind you, the date stamp is not all over the place, it will only be along one edge or perhaps even in the middle.
There are other ways to get an idea how old it may be if you can determine if other work was done at the same time, for example, doors made in a big facility will have a date stamp on the top or bottom of the leaf, IF it hasn't been cut off or painted over.

I am going to hazard a guess you want to know because of asbestos?
FWIW, I hear that sheetrock produced in Canada still has asbestos in it since it was just banned in recent years. Just like in the States when it was banned in the late 70's they allowed it to be sold until the early 80's so the stock piles would get sold. How's that for the power of marketing and capitalism.

About the Canadian source, none of this is substantiated, it is something I heard of in passing since I am now in the Northwest and happen to be in the construction trade.


What are the sturdiest types of joints for my lofted queen bed frame?

The design you have looks quite solid.  If you really wanted to add a touch more, you could mortise and tenon the joints. That would give it a nice look and add a lot of strength (meaning that you wouldn't see fasteners).  I would certainly glue the joints as well.  I like the notched 2x4 boards.  Keeps you from using metal hardware or trying to toe-nail them in.

If you can fasten this to the walls of your room, that would add a significant amount of strength to the structure.  Obviously, make sure to fasten it to the studs in the wall and not just drywall.


No, you do not need to remove the drywall to install the sauna. However, you will need a foil barrier (to reflect the heat back into the sauna) installed over the drywall. I'd install insulation on the wall too, to isolate the sauna from the house.

The reason you use cedar boards is because the room will heat up and expand then contract
making big cracks in drywall. The cedar boards will resist the rotting associated with the wetting/drying process and "move" with the heating/cooling process.

I've never used cement board for a floor.

Make sure you have a "wet location" light and enough venting (outside air intake). Your toughest task will be finding an appropriate sized heater...too small and it'll never heat the space...too big and you won't be able to be in it very long.

If you google, "how to build your own sauna", they have a zillion sites to help you.


Is installing a gable fan worth the investment?

I can tell you from experience in my house  a slate roofed colonial, it will make a difference. Even with the fan mounted in an attic window that is that is 3 inches off the floor of my walk-up attic the temperature drop in the attic was 30 degrees.Most fans will have a spec sheet telling how many square inches of ventilation opening they require. It is important to remember that you are calculating square inches of unimpeded opening so subtract for louvers and other obstructions. In my case I have a large peak where hot air tends to get trapped. If we have several days of very sunny and hot weather I place a small table fan on the attic floor. With the small fan pointing up it circulates the air to remove the hottest air trapped at the ridge.


No, it's not particularly safe. But it's not about the 50A/30A plug/receptacle, it's about the 3-Prong 240VAC plug/receptacle. Those have been known to be a poor design choice for 40-odd years and have been outlawed (other than "grandfathered" installations which are allowed to remain until remodeling or the like forces change) for more than 20 years in code.
Why are they bad? This plug configuration (the NEMA 10-50 for 50A ranges, or 10-30 for 30A dryers) has no grounding terminal, and neutral ends up connected to the case of the appliance. The modern replacement (NEMA 14-50 and NEMA 14-30) has 4 terminals, with both a grounding terminal and a neutral terminal as well as the two hot terminals. For the 10-30, one problem can lead to an energized case (the outside of the dryer goes to 120VAC) while the 14-30 requires TWO problems at the same time to reach that point.
There are other 3-prong 240VAC plug/receptacles that are hot, hot, ground, and those are OK, but ranges and dryers in the US have typically used some 120VAC components, so those plugs won't work for them.
If your dryer outlet box has 4 wires, you would simply replace the incorrect 10-50R with a 14-30R and then replace the cord on your dryer with a 14-30P cord, following your dryer's instructions to remove the jumper that bonds the case to neutral with a NEMA 10 cord. If your dryer outlet box only has 3 wires (and is not wired via conduit that would provide a ground path) you have to choose whether to continue living dangerously with a NEMA 10 outlet (if you are merely moving the dryer, not remodeling) or to retrofit a ground wire to that box and install a 14-30R.


Is it possible to wire up multiple 4 way switches with power coming into one 4 way and the lights connected to the other

Contact your AHJ regarding use of neutrals at these switches.

You have wired this for an "old school" wiring plan.  Changes were made in 2011 Code (which everyone has adopted) which require neutral in many, but not all switch locations, depending on where they are physically in the rooms.  This may still be alright, but I would get the AHJ (your inspector) to sign-off ASAP.  If the AHJ is displeased,  you'll need to either wire certain segments with /4 cable or go to conduit; or change altogether to smart switches.

You are not allowed to use 2 cables to substitute for a /4 or /5 cable.  You could if it was 5 volts DC, but it's mains AC power, and imbalanced currents in 2 cables causes big problems.

How to wire it old-school.

The problem with any 3-way/4-way complex is the dizzying re-use of the same colors for many tasks.  Whereas it gets rather easy if you re-mark the wire colors by function.  A 5-pack of colored electrical tape is $5.  Always mark both ends of each wire the same.

Using this this color code:  yellow are travelers, black is always-hot, red is switched-hot, and white is neutral.     Here we go:

on the leftmost cable, re-mark black and white wires yellow.
on the center cable, re-mark black and red wires yellow.
On the right cable, re-mark red and white wires yellow.
On the lamp cable, re-mark the black wire red.

Remember when you re-mark a wire, it is now that color.  I like to spiral the tape on so it marks the wire for much of its exposed length.  The point of these colors is it makes the remaining wire the needed color.

Put your thinking cap on. Ready?

At 3-way switches, the 2 travelers go on the brass screws, and the remaining wire goes on black.

At 4-ways, the 2 travelers from one cable go on the brass screws, and the 2 travelers from the other cable go on the black screws.

At the wires which remain, join same colors with a wire nut.

Wow, that was not so bad. See what colors do for ya?


Efficiency of diesel generator running a geothermal heat pump

I agree with your math. Ground sources are quite useful for achieving reasonable heat pump efficiency year-round.

Also, it's possible to scavenge some of the 70% loss at the generator by collecting radiator or exhaust heat.  This is called cogeneration and Honda has offered this system for awhile.


How can I modify this dryer vent cap to keep lint from getting trapped?

I cannot say I'm a fan of the design of that vent - although looking at your other question, I'm rather surprised that lint is falling down into that gap.  Possibly your fan is creating too much pressure, and it's backing up inside the vent at the 180 and thus air is escaping through the pushing some lint down into that gap, where it can get stuck.

If that's the case, then you might try installing a baffle inside the vent to force lint up far enough in the vent so that it has to go out the intended port, but which still allows water out.  Like so...

Sorry, the color doesn't show well, but inside I've added a piece of metal running from just below the intake port to nearly the end of the angled portion of the vent, with a brace connecting it to the body to keep it stable.  You can't see it but there should be drip holes at the point where the new plate hits the flashing for water drainage.

The idea being, lint flies in and cannot be forced directly down to the gap in question, but water will hit the tray, run back and go through the drip holes.

That or replace it with this


Since the three switches & devices are all in one circuit, they need to share hot (panel to the switches) and neutral (from the devices back to the panel).
Hot
Take the hot wire off the vent switch. Typically there is a jumper/bridge connecting the two hots (i.e., to make a common hot connection) on the double switch. Assuming that is the case, connect two short pieces of black wire with a wire nut to the hot wire that you removed from the vent switch. Connect one of those pieces to the vent switch and the other to the double switch (heat or light screw, doesn't matter which one).
If there is no jumper/bridge between the two hots on the double switch, then connect three short pieces of black wire with a wire nut to the hot wire that you removed from the vent switch. Connect on to each of the 3 switches (vent, heat & light screws of double switch).
Neutral
Based on your diagram, you appear to be using either separate wires in conduit or a /4 cable - black/white/red/blue, and joining the two separate neutral connections of the HVL together to the white (neutral) wire going back to the panel. If so, that's fine.
However, if you actually have two separate cables - one black/white from vent switch and one black/white/red from the double switch then you have a bit of a problem. Each neutral in a cable has to match the loads in the cable. Based on the diagram, the light & vent (which each typically use < 100W) share a neutral and the heat (typically ~ 1500W) has its own neutral. You can't mix & match neutrals. Either they all get combined and the neutral wire runs next to all the switched hot wires in conduit or in a single cable, or then must be kept matched together. To keep them matched together in cables, the white (neutral) for the light & vent must be together with the switched hots for those devices and only combined together with the heat's neutral in the switchbox - not combined at the device.


Will a 4", 100CFM bathroom exhaust fan work with 3" exhaust duct?

Yes it will. There are many different types of 4" to 3" reducers that will work with your fan. You will have to match one to the material of your vent and the duct. Below is a picture of one sold by Lowes.


Probably a 1/4" cap, but buy plenty of different sizes and return what you don't use. Use teflon tape on the threads.

You might also try grabbing the valve with slip joint pliers and turning the white lever.

It would be better if you could disconnect/cap at the source, but if it's a rental, I'd understand your reluctance.


Faucet is secured in a strange way. How can I remove it?

This looks like a faucet that is meant to be installed from the top without having to get under it to tighten nuts.  The pieces underneath that are holding in the holes look like they rotate like a toggle bolt.  Remove the handles and all the trim from the top and then look for a nut or screw that will turn to loosen/lower the locking pieces underneath.  Once it is loosened enough, the bottom pieces should rotate to be in line with the valve bodies and should pull out of the hole easily.

I've never seen a faucet like this in person, so this is an educated guess, but I'm pretty confident.


Can I put a 75 watt equivalent led bulb in a fixture that says 60 watts max?

Yes you can.  If you could find it, you could put 60 W (actual) LEDs in it, which would be equivalent to like 750 W incandescent.  The maximum stickers are for heat dissipation as well as electrical wiring capacity.

The only real concern is whether the dimability of the LEDs match the light switch or controller.


I have used many panels just like this I usually don’t move the buss but it is easy to do the 2 screws are usually 10-32 self forming screws that hold the buss in place move it if you would like, code has no requirement on the position.
If you can’t or don’t feel comfortable with that location move the buss.
I always have a set of drill/taps for box modifications they drill and tap in one quick operation if using a tapped hole it’s a lot easier to put the screws in and code legal with a 32 pitch screw.
Never use self tappers inspectors look for those and will red tag a job if they see one. Self forming machine screws are different and have the 32 pitch most commonly 10-32 but I have found some 8-32’s used by different mfg’s.


Connectors on wires entering a plastic box

I have used listed clamps on construction boxes but black button connector is a device like an “insider” plastic clamp it is only listed for 1 direction. Mechanical 2 screw clamps can be installed with the screws on the inside or outside. On plastic boxes if you have a bushing to protect the insulation the staple needs to be within 8” not all plastic boxes have clamps but if you drill a hole it will require protection for the wire at a minimum. I would say based on that it doesn’t matter but if the instructions for your clamp provide a direction the inspector can flag it.


Are standard light bulb bases being phased out?

Many countries are banning the sale of incandescent bulbs over the next decade. Canada is planning on banning them in 2012 (not entirely sure if this is a done deal or not though), USA is banning them at different wattages starting in 2012 and ending in 2014.

The GU24 (two-pin) base is being introduced to force the transition, and prevent incandescent bulbs from being used in newer fixtures.

From this page:

  What is a GU24 base and how is it related to CFLs?

  The GU24 socket and base system is designed to replace the Edison socket and base in energy efficient lighting fixtures.  The ENERGY STAR® Program Requirements for Residential Lighting Fixtures, Version 4.0 require that residential lighting fixtures cannot use the standard Edison screw base, even if they do not have a built-in ballast.  The same requirement is included in California's Energy Efficiency Standards for Residential and Nonresidential Buildings, known as Title 24-2005.  This requirement is designed to insure that fixtures that receive ENERGY STAR® qualification when using an energy-efficient self-ballasted CFL, or are qualified as energy-efficient under Title 24-2005 cannot be operated with an incandescent lamp.  The GU24 socket was designed to be compatible with these energy efficiency regulations.  The GU24 base has two dual-diameter pins; the smaller portion having a diameter of 3.4 mm (0.13 inches) while the larger portion has a diameter of 5 mm (0.2 inches). CFLs with a GU24 base are designed to be connected directly to the power line, so they are functionally equivalent to screw-base CFLs instead of normal pin-base CFLs.  Unfortunately, ENERGY STAR® refers to CFLs with the GU24 base as self-ballasted pin base lamps, a designation that may lead to confusion with pin-base CFLs that do not have an integral ballast.  Some manufacturers are also making modular ballasts with a GU24 base on one end and a socket for a normal pin-base CFL on the other.  These modular ballasts can be used to adapt normal pin-base CFLs to fixtures that have the GU24 socket, thereby reducing the amount of material that must be thrown away when the lamp fails.

I would bet Edison will not disappear for quite a while though: there are hundreds of millions of fixtures, and it's not practical (or environmentally friendly) for everyone to go out and replace every fixture in the next few years. My guess (and I have no authority in the matter btw :)) is that it will be 2015-2020 before you start finding more GU24 base bulbs than Edison.

Also, you can get Edison to GU24 adapters, which means even if Edison bulbs themselves disappear, you can still use your existing fixtures.


Use existing neutral wire for ground and switch neutral to ground in breaker panel?

Not quite.  You also need to destroy all the insulation on the neutral-to-be-ground wire which is accessible.

That's a subtle distinction in Code.  You can't convert a hot to a neutral because the wire must be white its entire length.   However, you can convert a hot or neutral to ground, because Code only requires you strip the insulation which is accessible.

However, don't do that.  Convert to NEMA 14.

NEMA 14 is the "Universal solvent" receptacle that will power whatever went in that 10-50 (hot-hot-neutral) and also anything that takes a 6-50 (hot-hot-ground).

I presume your neutral wire has white insulation because if it was already bare, you wouldn't need to ask about making it a ground.   I am saying leave it neutral, and add a ground.

Grounds, unlike any other wire, can be retrofitted.  They can follow a different path back to the panel, they only need to reach anywhere that has a 10 AWG or larger ground path back to the panel, or even a conduit pipe.  Or even the grounding electrode system, those copper wires going out to ground rods or water pipes.  (You can't use water pipes, though).


There's a good cleaning solution for this called CLR (US) - it stands for Calcium-Lime-Rust. This will dissolve rust and hard water spots in showers, if you do indeed have rust.

You mentioned scrubbing doesn't help, if you haven't tried CLR I would do that next. Otherwise, you're probably looking at re-grouting.

It is possible to caulk these seams and that may work, but they're intended to be grouted. Caulk is not a good permanent solution here. Grout can be removed with a cutting/grinding tool, and it's relatively easy to apply. Color matching the existing grout may be difficult


Can I Use 4" CPVC Pipe for a Dryer vent?

No. It has to be rigid metal pipe in the wall. Plastic pipe is a fire hazard.

Note that you cannot use screws to attach together metal pipe for dryer vents; lint can collect on it and become a fire hazard.


Garages and Gas Water Heater Vapor Elevation

According to the manufacturer's installation instructions, Rheem gas water heaters with FVIR can be installed directly on a garage floor, without the normal 18" stand. This allowance is only if local codes do not contradict:


What the best way to do site planning on a large wooded lot?

I would start with the county map of parcels and then get a Google maps aerial view.

Take those as PDFs and annotate them with your specified dimensions. Showing the driveways and building lots clearly overlayed on the county parcel map and aerial view.

You could also drive T-posts at specific points (surveyor's posts if you can find them) for the contractor to reference while working. GPS might not help since consumer level GPS is only accurate to within 5-10 feet. Not very accurate when locating a surveyor's post.

Lastly, be there on the day(s) they are working to verify they are doing what you want.

Good luck on your project!


Is it acceptable to use a larger gauge wire downstream of a junction box for a deep well pump?

That depends on how much current the pump draws.

If it is less than 20 amps (most likely unless you have an industrial sized well pump) then this is fine and it sounds like they used #10 for the long run to reduce the voltage drop on the circuit.

The higher the current draw the higher the voltage drop on the wire. On long runs of wire we routinely up-size the wire to reduce this voltage drop. This is a very common practice.

Edit: The point raised in the comments is a very good one. #12 wire cannot be on a breaker larger than 20 amps. So, your circuit is limited to 20 amps by the #12 wire.


Formica is the material that is usually glued to the countertop.
Normally you clean the top with acetone and put  a “Seamfil” compound with a putty knife.
They have different brands other than Seamfil but pick the brand that most closely matches your color.
There will be a stripe as it never matches exactly but it will seal and keep the material from “puckering” or filling up with Gunk.


What might cause water to leak under or behind a bathtub?

Your external list is pretty good, what's missing is an internal list:

water shut off valves(stem leaks)
Connections between stop valves and mixing valve
Stem leaks on mixing valve
Shower arm and tub outlet extension: leaks at elbow inside wall

It is unusual for these sources to end up on the floor, outside the tub, unless your bath is over a slab.

If you have access (if not, you should make one; 14" square centered on the valve) to the back of the mixing valve, use a flashlight and watch carefully when the water is first turned on, after its been off overnight


What probably has happened is that one of the retaining clips has become bent too far toward the center and is blocking the plug. Press the clips outward as far as you can, and make sure the plug can push them both into their slots.
You shouldn't remove the clips as they probably also supply safety fault grounding.


"after flushing drains to a low level"

The level in the bowl after flushing is determined by:

the length of time the flapper is held open (not open long enough = no flush, inadequate flush, or low water level in bowl after flush)

AND

the bowl-filler function of the fill valve in the tank/cistern. Commonly, the bowl-filler function is arranged such that a hose directs water into the bowl (usually via the overflow tube and rim clean holes) during the entire time the fill valve is open. Some fill valves allow adjustment of the bowl-filler duration/flow/volume.

If it were a venting problem, it would occur at random times (or specific times if related to other usage of drains), rather than only when the toilet in question were flushed...


Should I use plumbers putty to install a sink drain?

Increasingly, I'm finding that plumber's putty is not recommended for sink drains, especially if it has its own rubber gasket. In places where the manufacturer does not supply a gasket (and the flange is not metal) they suggest silicone caulk.

Be sure to read the directions for your drain assembly!


Fastening aluminum fascia to wooden subfascia

Fascia wraps should only be nailed on the bottom (horizontal) face if possible. Avoid nailing the vertical face except where the run terminates if you have a gap, and then use a single nail. Dimples in the vertical face are very difficult to avoid and show conspicuously in certain lighting conditions.

Most carpenters don't pre-drill, but it can be difficult to penetrate the metal if you're not skilled in upside-down nailing. Feel free to do so. You might even do it on the ground beforehand. Aim for the center of the face and every 16" to 24" or so.

Be sure to use corrosion-resistant nails in a matching color. Drive them just far enough to pull the wrap into position. When working with finish metal, gentle is the name of the game.


Extension Cords - Electrical Hazards & Safety

This is really a subjective question, and there's a lot of slop in the definition of "temporary".

If you know you'll use this space for the long term as it is, I'd work on getting some hard outlets installed. If not, I'd get a 2" hole saw and cut some pass-through ports at strategic places out of sight between cabinet sections and through the floor, as needed.


Cutting an area of vinyl plank flooring that is already installed

Use a circular saw with a wood cutting blade set to the depth of the vinyl floor thickness.  Osc tools are invaluable for small jobs but they are slow and you'll burn through a lot of blades to cut something that size out.
I'd use some quick support rods that push down on 2x4s around the area where you are cutting to prevent any of the boards from moving when you are cutting.  Set the 2x4 and use it as a guide to cut a straight line in the boards.
Seems like a lot of work though.  I'd probably just put the wall on the floor.
LVT doesn't thermally expand to the same degree as laminate, wood or engineered hardwood.  I've installed kitchen cabinets on top of floating LVT without problem.  In your case you could secure the wall on the top and sides, to allow for expansion of the floor you could cut an oval hole in the lvt where the fastener holds the bottom plate to the concrete then if the floor wants to move under the wall it just has to overcome the friction of the bottom plate.  You could also put a low friction tape or platic surface on the bottom of the bottom plate which would allow the floor to move under the bottom plate with less effort.


How can I open a locked door with a half destroyed cylinder lock?

At 24mm, the holes do not reach the actuator.

If you carefully examine the sides of the drilled holes, you should be able to see the remains of the nickel-plated anti-drill pins. If you don't see them, your lock is probably ABH-I.

I think the first thing to try is to remove one of the cores completely. Drive a hardened steel screw into the key slot and pry the core out with a claw hammer or pry bar (aka crowbar).

You will need to push a metal plug or tool into the drilled hole to keep the core from turning while you force the steel screw into the key slot. Obviously the screw should be a star drive, or even a hex head if you can find one. Try to get it at least 15mm into the core.

It looks like you should try the indoor side first, as you can use the lock housing as a fulcrum without crushing the door panel. Use a scrap of plywood to protect the door when prying.

If you can't get either core out, the next best thing would be to drill all the way through both cores and the actuator. Don't just extend the existing holes at their current diameter -- unlike the original driller, you are not trying to cut away working parts of the lock -- but use a much smaller drill size. You only need a hole large enough to fit a steel rod, like a piece of bass piano wire. Or, you may be able to use the drill itself to tie the cores to the actuator.

Add an assistant and a little coordination to turn both cores in the same direction at the same time, and the door should open with minimum fuss.


Those are o-ring connectors and shouldn't be installed "tightly". You've probably damaged the rubber or deformed the metal. Take them apart and have a look.

They should be tightened hand-tight plus maybe a turn.


Painted walls showing darker when dry where painted with brush, than with roller

how can I achieve the same finish using a brush as I did using a roller

In my experience, you can't. I usually find that brushed paint doesn't cover as well as paint applied using a roller. I find it helpful to do the corners first, going slowly. Apply extra coats as necessary. Then use a roller for the main part of the wall and paint as close into the corner as possible. A damp cloth (if water-based emulsion/latex) and a paint-guard can help.

I don't know about you, but I find I am much more fussy about these things when I am doing the work, but after a week I never think about or notice small defects any more.


How to get sticky residue off plastic-covered furniture?

Generally one experiments with various cleaning products and escalates when the initial choices fail to work. i.e. neither you nor we know exactly what the residue 15 years of plastic wrapping has left on your chair's finish is, so we start with things that are normal for cleaning and unlikely to damage the finish, then move on to products that are generally "more aggressive" but which also require testing to be sure they don't damage the finish.

Furniture polish
Spray cleaners
Cleaning wipes

Solvents in no particular order (test on a part of the chair that won't show to be sure they don't damage the finish - for instance, alcohol will dissolve shellac, but shellac is rather unlikely unless you have seriously antique chairs.)

Denatured alcohol
mineral spirits/paint thinner
naptha
lacquer thinner


How do I get this shower head holder off the wall?

These can definitely be challenging. Some manufacturers use a Philips screw, while others use an Allen screw. At least, these are the 2 most common types. Either way, remember they're used in an area that is damp and some corrosion may build up in the slots or hole, so you may need to use a little more upward or downward force, opposed to turning force, into the set screw than usual when turning.
So, if you only tried using a Philips screwdriver, try using a variety of metric and standard Allen wrenches.
Good luck!


What are these blinds and how do they work?

This blinds are called "Venetian blinds. If the blinds are very long they have guide cords at both ends. This is the case in your situation.

From the first picture you can see two sets of cords comming out of the frame.

The most left set of cords are used for tilting the blinds when they are down. There is a rotating mechanism inside the frame that can make the individual elements tilt in the direction required to block the sun.

The other set of cords is used to lower or pull up the complete set of elements.
If still working you can unlock the mechanism by pulling both cords to the right. Once free you can lower the elements by releasing the wires. Locking the elements at the required position works the same way as the release procedure.
It depends on the make if you have to pull the cords in the same or in the opposite direction to lock the system.


There is an easy way to find out if your AFCI is bad. Disconnect the circuit but not the neutral from the breaker and see if it resets. If it does reset your AFCI is working and somewhere in your circuit you are getting an arc. Exactly where can take some work.

Employ the normal troubleshooting method of disconnecting half of the devices and see if the AFCI trips. The you take half of the half and try it again. Whether the AFCI trips or not tells you which direction to trace. No trip you add to the circuit. Yes trip you work toward the breaker. Eventually you will find the problem device. If that's a little hard to digest then just start at one end of the circuit and begin disconnecting fixtures one at a time until you find the problem.

Good luck.


Would untreated timber develop issues after being left out in rain for 2 weeks?

Were the logs kiln dried before you started? Even if they were they'll still be almost as dry inside as when they were delivered. How much time did they spend in the rain at the factory and on the truck on their way to your place? Sure, they'll have picked up some moisture over the last couple of weeks, but the same will happen when it rains 10 years from now. Yes, you'll have some sealers on them by then, but wood will absorb moisture from the atmosphere - it's almost impossible to prevent it. If you're really concerned, go pick up a moisture meter and see where they are currently. Contact the kit vendor with the current moisture readings to be sure.
Since you're "almost done" the logs have been built into walls, etc, so they're not "soaking" in the rain, it's shedding off due to gravity. Even the bottom one should be on its foundation, not soaking in the mud. Honestly, I'd be more concerned about any plywood/OSB sub-floor that's sitting horizontally collecting water than I would be about the log walls where the water can run off very easily.
One hopes you'll get some nice weather soon. Let everything dry out according to the instructions on whatever sealer/stain/whatever you're coating them with and you should be good to go.


It depends on the filler material used, but the most likely candidates would  be caulk or wood filler/putty.

Caulk remains somewhat flexible after drying. It will probably be white. You can trim it with a razor blade to remove the excess. Assuming the caulk is a paintable type, you can then apply primer and paint your trim to conceal the patch. If you need to apply more, simply smooth it with your finger or a putty knife while it's wet.

Wood filler or putty will dry hard. It will probably be some shade of brown. Most putties are designed to be sand-able, like real wood. Simply sand the patched area smooth with the surrounding wood, apply primer, and paint. Putty can come in a can or squeeze tube, and is usually applied with a putty knife (but a finger can work too).

If neither of these works for you, please post a picture so we can better identify the material.


How do I run more than 2 circuits in conduit?

You can mark the white or gray neutral wires with colored tape. Unlike marking a switch loop wire in cable (where it changes white from neutral to hot), this does not change the function but is simply an identifier. Real simple:

Black + White or Black + White-with-black-tape
Red + White-with-red-tape
Yellow + White-with-yellow-tape
Blue + White-with-blue-tape

Of course, the colors don't have to match like that, but that would make it super easy to keep track of things.
With only two different circuits, yes white & gray as two different neutrals makes sense. Once you get to taping things, it is arguably easier to use white for all neutrals instead of having two different colors, but that depends on how much wiring you do.


How to fix holes in linoleum so that I can lay down sticky tiles over it

For small holes I just use spackle. Mix it up and use a putty knife working any air bubbles out. You may need a second application if the holes are deep.

If the holes are larger, after I have a nice even fill and when dry I will use a paint primer so the tiles will stick better, this is a good idea with self leveling compounds also so the tiles will stick and not have the edges roll up.


What are my non-gas alternatives to a wood burning fireplace?

All very nice and stylish.. Electric fire place! This will be the easiest way to replace your wood fire place. But the cons in most countries is that electric heating is very expensive. Pros are well.. clean and easy. Press a button and set the heat you want. Effects vary and they are not expensive.
If you want to use gas,
then you have some options.
If you have a basement directly under the fire place you can make a safe place to store gas bottles and just put a supply line directly above to the gas fire place. Easy to to replace once every few months and lasts for a bit.
If you have no basement then maybe if space permits a safe place somewhere outside on your wall- hidden away form first sight(but easy access to replace) and run some gas lines to the fire place.
Last option is to keep the gas bottle somewhere in the same room in a safe,ventilated cupboard.. like some people use the a gas stove with a supply bottle right under it. This is the last option (maybe easiest) but safety is a big concern though.
propane(gas) bottles or cylinders.

Propane tank


The switch is a DPDT switch and is reversing the phase relationship between two winding's. Typically the outer terminals will be cross connected.  As far as mains voltage etc, that is circuit and motor dependent.


I would put a wood frame around/over it then cover the frame with a hardboard then decorate that.

Many times that an internal framed wall has been removed to find things behind.


Possible to remove truss and add collar ties?

Quoid, do you live in an area subject to heavy snow loading? If you do, DO NOT remove those joists - they're responsible for holding your walls in as your roof exerts downward pressure from the snow's weight. Remove them, and the walls may blow outward as the garage collapses around you.


How can I keep a bedroom warmer in summer?

They do make thermostat controlled vent covers, this particular one is ~$60.

I'm not sure how difficult it is to install one of these (as I've never done it myself), but it sounds like this is exactly the type of thing you are looking for.

This is not a recommendation for this product, simply an example to show that they do exist.


How should I dispose of the vinyl shed walls?

If you have municipal trash collection, you'll want to contact the company in charge of pickup.  It's quite common for them to have a website, which typically has information about how to handle various types of waste.

If you're not sure who handles the collection. That information is usually available on the town/city website, or by calling the town/city.

If you take your waste to the dump (not sure if folks still have to do this), you could simply ask someone on your next trip.


Why doesn't my electrical service panel have a main disconnect breaker?

Your real problem is a lost neutral.

That's why your voltages were going all 80-240V.   The neutral wire broke between the panel and the pole. This needs to be fixed.  Unless it's in your panel, it's the power company's problem and should be reported as a power outage, which it actually is.  Shut off everything until it is.

If hooking up a ground significantly improves conditions, that diagnostically proves the neutral problem, but This is NOT a legitimate or safe fix!!! It should not be continued for even one more minute.  Shut Everything Off and get that neutral fixed.

Since your panel does not appear to have a main breaker, you would need to call your power company and have them come out and pull the meter.  They need to do that anyway to investigate the lost neutral.

Now might be a good time to get a meter pan which contains a main breaker.  I would obtain it and have it ready for when the power company comes out to fix the neutral.  They may just fit it for free, since they're in there anyway, and replacing beats troubleshooting.

Other stuff

The nice thing about a main breaker on the meter pan is if you turn it off, your entire panel is deenergized, which makes the panel safer to work in, and makes a whole-panel replacement safe to DIY.  Not that there's anything wrong with a QO panel!  It is small for my tastes.

However I think you definitely do have a split-bus "rule of six" panel.

Fill the empty hole in slot 28 with a spare breaker.  They make proper blanking plates, but I find them flimsy and expensive, and breakers are cheap and a heck of a lot easier to find.  Label it N/C.

The zinc plated copper ground wire is fine. You can't use aluminum for ground wires.

The big aluminum is fine and in fact preferable, since the lugs are aluminum.  Beware of small gauge (12-8 gauge) aluminum wire in the house on branch circuits. That is the scary stuff.   Until recently, the repair approach was to run around screaming and tear your hair out, then tear your wire out.  Today, there's a magic device called an AFCI breaker which will catch arc faults, which is what we're worried about with aluminum wire.  That, with CO-ALR terminations or Alumiconns, I'd sleep well at night.

It's definitely a Rule-of-Six "split bus" panel.

Now, the dead giveaway of a Rule-of-Six panel, look at the top 12 spaces (where the six Rule-of-Six 2-pole breakers go).  Follow all their wires.  Are they all accounted for?  NO.  Breaker 1's extra fat wires do not leave the panel.

Its top wire does a most unlikely thing, that seems like an optical illusion but is not: it goes straight down, just to the left of the L1 lug.  Look close in empty position 9, you can see it again just left of the bus, with that same spackle splattered on it.  And just to the right of the L2 lug is an equally fat wire that is mostly obscured, that can only be its partner. Split-bus panel.

Now look at Space 14, right side. Compare to spaces 28 and 30. See how the bus is different there, as in weirdly missing?  Split-bus.

I'm not a fan.  I would transform any Rule-of-Six panel into a Rule-of-One panel by having only one breaker in the Rule of Six area.  QO makes snap-on breakers as large as 200A that will fit there, then I'd feed an external subpanel.  (the internal subpanel is too small).

** If you really know what you're doing, you can activate certain loads, e.g. 240V-only loads (which have no neutral).


Why won't my kitchen sink drain? Disposal is working but when I run it water backs up into single sink

There is (obviously) a blockage.  First off, watermelon rind should not be placed in a disposer, it's too tough and fibrous and often clogs up the drains.

If you took apart the P trap and found nothing, it's either blocked before or after the trap.  Most likely before, at the outlet of the disposer.

Take all the pipes apart and find the blockage.  If there is nothing there, then it's in the drain past the part that can be seen below the sink and you need either better tools, like a longer snake or you need to get a plumber in who can clear it for you.


Electric Wall oven with power/ Circuit Breaker?

Some homes have breakers in more than 1 location. Let me explain I have installed panels that the true main is at the meter and the panel that has all the lighting and outlets is a sub panel, check the box at your meter it may have several large breakers like 1 for the panel, 1 for the range and possibly 1 for out buildings and or RV pads in some cases this is a cheaper way to power the other devices because smaller feeder wires can be run to the main panel and possibly shorter feeders to the devices that are powered from the box at the meter.


Prevent dead animals in basement window wells

I think I finally found a solution. I had tried chicken wire, and it was moderately helpful... apparently, frogs couldn’t use it. I tried angling tree branches for critters to crawl out on, but that didn’t work for frogs, either.

So, I bought some pool noodles and cut them to secure around the top of the window well, and there have been no more critters in the window well! I was skeptical but was willing to try anything. I’m not sure how it works so well, but it is apparently the solution. Here’s what I did:

I purchased a package of black (to match the window well) pool noodles. I didn’t want to create a place for mice to live and chew into the noodle, so I got ones that were dense... ones that had the smallest “hole” on the inside.
I measured and cut so the noodles fit very snuggly onto the rim of the window well without any gaps. I literally wedged the noodles in on the sides... they are really snug.

When I finished, I realized there was still a gap between the window well and the cover, so I eventually bought some rope caulk to fill in the gaps. But when I finally got the time to add the rope caulk, I noticed that there was not a single critter in the window wells, not even bugs.

So, I didn’t add the rope caulk and have had no problems since adding the pool noodles, about 4 months ago. We have had warm temperatures and now frost in the evenings (hence the icy edges in the pics), and still no critters.

Save the frogs! :-)


Is my electric stove receptacle wired correctly?

On a NEMA 14 that is correctly wired:

H1-H2 should be 240VAC

H1-N, H2-N, H1-G, H2-G should all be 120VAC

N-G should be close to zero, but not exactly zero.


How do I determine the origin of a window's leak?

It turned out that the top corners of the window were rotted and water was penetrating behind it.


How deep should I sink a  gatepost for a 7' wide gate in my fence?

Rule of thumb is that 1/3 of the post should be in the ground. A 6' fence should be sunk into the ground 3', so you'd need 9' posts.

As Shirlock states, even that won't likely support an 8' wide gate. Two 4' gates would definitely be a better option.

Perhaps the easiest solution, however, is to not even make a gate. Instead, build your fence and then make this an 8' panel that is attached with temporary fasteners...such as bolts. On the rare occasions that you need access, unbolt the fence panel and remove it completely--thereby negating the need for the two posts to cary the load of a cantilevered gate.

On the plus side, it's less gate hardware you need to buy and deal with.


Inlet valve for dishwasher came off. - Can I use JB weld on the compression fitting?

A compression joint that relies on any kind of sealant is a leak waiting to happen.
Sometimes the leak is very anxious to get started and begins dripping immediately. Other times the leak is patient and stealthy, waiting even weeks before POW! it soaks you and wreaks water damage everywhere.
Here are some things I've learned by experience:

the tubing must be bright clean and round where the ferrule will compress it
when tightening the nut ensure the tubing is very straight in the fitting. If it isn't the ferrule can be crimped onto the tube a little crooked.
don't over-tighten - IMHO a compression fitting takes less force on the wrench than a pipe thread fitting would. If it leaks under pressure you can tighten it a little more, but if that still fails, it'll have to be disassembled and inspected.

I suggest you disassemble the joint, carefully inspect all the parts for nicks, debris, and deformity, and replace parts as needed. In particular I'd consider cutting off the end of the tubing and try again with a new ferrule and meticulous cleaning of the tubing.


This old fashion drinking fountain leaks. How do I fix it?

That looks like a Halsey Taylor "bracket style" fountain

You could contact them for repair parts availability, or call plumbing supply houses now that you have a manufacturer and model.

If you open the installation instructions, it provides a parts list that includes

  600116618640 Stem Assy W/Lever

I googled that part number, and found this image at amazon:

And that looks like there is a gasket at the threaded collar that goes into the body of the housing, and a simple flat washer at the end of the stem. I'd replace the flat washer, and clean it out well first.


This indicates that you have a higher resistance in the service connection than there should be. I think you should get a service call from a competent electrician.


Thermal Energy Storage heat loss coefficient

The standby losses you see quoted should conform to a testing standard that would allow deriving the heat loss coefficient.

For hot water storage, I would expect typical tanks to have between 2 and 4 inches of foam insulation, so aged R-Values R10-R12 (hr*ft^2*F/btu)/RSI 1.76-2.11(K*m^2/W) on the low end and double that on the high end, with 2 inches being by far the most common.


How to repair wood rot on exterior (decorative) exposed beam?

but what is the best way to repair this beam?

It depends how you personally define best. The absolute best (money and time no object) is to replace it.

  I'm thinking about removing the rotten wood

Before you start, be prepared that the rot may go a lot further than you expect (though maybe it won't of course).

  What is the best filler to use?

For small areas, Wood filler :-)

For slightly larger areas, Wood. Appropriately treated and/or painted.

If there is a lot of rot, I'd be thinking of remedial action more significant than filling.

  Or should I try something else?

For small areas, you might be able to use a wood hardener.

If it is non structural, you can scarf in a replacement section.

If it is structural, i.e. holding up your roof. I would consult a specialist, in my part of the world that might be a surveyor, elsewhere, a structural engineer maybe.


A matte or eggshell, or pretty well any other finish, will cover over the old sheen. With it being freshly painted and primed, you shouldn't have any issues with the paint adhering. As long as the walls were prepped well before the coat you already put on, there shouldn't be any issues.

Keep in mind though, flat finishes are harder to clean, and in a bathroom with a shower, eggshell is is a good choice as a minimum. Many paints are mold resistant now, and there are several brands with eggshell being ok for bathrooms, but the flat sheens may not be.


Can I run CAT5/6 cables parallel to electrical cables?

While a shielded Cat5/6 cable is designed to protect itself from outside interferance, it isn't recommended to run them side-by-side to your electrical wiring.  Typical is to run electrical down one stud and the Cat5/6 down a different stud.  Basically do the same as you would for telco.


How to splice grounds in a metal box with a 30amp and 20amp circuit

Splice the ground wires together and to a box ground pigtail

You'll need to splice the ground wires coming into the box to each other and to 10AWG pigtails to both the receptacle ground terminal and the box grounding screw, as per NEC 250.148.  That way, there's a direct path for ground current from the MC's ground conductor to the ground wire in the FMC, instead of sending ground current from the MC cable through the box and the yoke of the NEMA 14-30R in order to get to the ground wire in the FMC (or equivalently, through the box and then the 5' of FMC to get to the next box).


What kind of metal is safe for DIY BBQ repair?

Best would be a cast iron/steel piece, it would last forever and do exactly same as next item.

Second best would be mild carbon steel, what we call black steel where I come from. It rusts like no tomorrow but it is cheap, sturdy and no surprises.

Stainless is a waste of money, heat over time will both make it brittle and leach mystery compounds like chromium into nearby surfaces.

Galvanized is ridiculous, as propane heat will melt the zinc and it will make a puddle.

Best performance is heat resistant high alloy steel with large portions of nickel, molybdenum and others. What we call "kettle steel" in my neck of the woods. But that is hard to work into shape, difficult to weld, heavy as bricks and thus expensive.


When drywalling a room, should I do the ceiling before the walls?

If you do the walls first, you can end up with drywall that is unsupported along an entire edge.
Taking these walls for example.

Walls First
If you add drywall to the walls.

Then add drywall to the ceiling.

The ceiling drywall will be unsupported along the entire length of the one wall.

Ceiling First
Given the same walls. If you add drywall to the ceiling.

Then add drywall to the walls

The ceiling drywall will be supported by the wall drywall.

Blocking, or Extra Framing
If you add blocking; or some other framing, it shouldn't matter which you drywall first.


Where is my gas shutoff valve for my stove or do I need to have one installed?

Yes, that appears to be a valve. Note that it can only turn 90 degrees (clockwise as it sits), constrained by the lugs on the side. The line indicates gas flow (in line with the pipe as pictured open, crossways to the pipe closed.)

If it requires excessive force to operate, better to have gas shut off upstream and replace it, rather than risk breaking it.

WD-40 is not really the appropriate thing to use on stuck items - it has a particular use (displacing water) and it's a poor excuse for either a penetrant or lubricant.


Is an 150 psi air compressor enough for spray staining or painting?

Probably not, because 150 psi air compressor labels are generally found on smaller pancake and hot-dog type models. The important number is the volume of air supplied which is labelled in cubic feet per minute. (CFM or SCFM on the compressor label) Think of it this way, a bicycle pump provides a very high pressure but you wouldn't want to try spraying paint with one!

Typically spray guns require 6-10 CFM while small portables put out 3-4ish. Some of them are embarrassingly close to the low end too. I vaguely recall seeing one model that was rated below 2 CFM @ 40psi. It's hard to make suggestions without knowing your use case, but here are a couple of options:

Small Compressor, Small Gun

Detail guns need less air. The current HVLP touchup gun at Harbor Freight requires 3.2 to 5.6 CFM @ 40 PSI. There are portable compressors that can meet that output. Of course you won't want to paint a house or car with it, but it is an option for the occasional small piece.

Small Compressor, Special Tools

It's not my forte, but you can run conversion guns and pressure pots off the next step up in compressors. Price wise it's probably the worst of all worlds unless you already have a serious portable compressor.

HVLP Turbine

If you haven't noticed, the compressor is getting to be pretty expensive. Tool companies have noticed and now offer portable turbines for spray guns. They're a reasonable solution if you don't need pneumatic tools other than paint guns.

Airless Sprayers

These pump paint through a tip to aerosolize it, and can often be rented from paint stores. The big draw is that they'll shoot latex right from the can without complaint. It's really the way to go for paints and large surfaces.

EDIT - Specific to your setup

Your compressor matches your gun requirements exactly. Unfortunately most compressors have a duty cycle which limits them to running part time to prevent overheating. Start by checking the manual to find the duty cycle and see if it is an issue. It may not be an issue if you're limited to 7 out of every 10 minutes if you're not painting a building.

If you're doing a lot of painting then a paint pot may be a reasonable purchase. (Alternatively an additional air tank if you use a lot of pneumatic tools or small amounts of paint.) It wouldn't be the most cost effective new purchase, but it would be cheaper than a new compressor. It would also remain useful should you ever upgrade the compressor.


How to finish jagged edge of kitchen subway tile?

I had a similar situation. I purchased some outside corner moulding, similar to this:

and used that on the edge. I had to run it down the table saw to rip it to the correct depth. I used an all purpose adhesive to attach it, and then finished the edges with caulk.


Neither. It's labeling paint. It was either sprayed onto the entire lumber unit or this truss set for identification.

source


Painting rooms partially, how to get good edges

Professional painters don't use tape.

They "cut in" the wall by using an angled brush in the corner. Usually a 2" (50mm to you) sash brush. This requires a fair bit of practice and a steady hand but once you are accomplished at it, it is much faster and even looks better then taping off, and even beats hi-tech painter's tape.

Then, they roll the wall right up close to the corner and you can't really tell they brushed the corners.

If you paint break to break (corner to corner or floor to ceiling) then a very small difference in shade is very difficult to see because of lighting. Additionally, you don't need to try to match the stipple of the of the existing paint.

Always save leftover paint in a stable temperature that doesn't freeze and you will be able to touch up nicks and scratches for years before having to change colors.

Good luck!


Several Electrical Mains into a Single Panel

First, you can have only one meter/service per occupancy (unless you have something really weird).  An occupancy is a single tenant, within reason.  For instance a single family home gets one service.  If that house is later subdivided into four apartments, it could have four meters and four services, but the power company will be reluctant to provision all this, so they will insist on proof that the city authorized the subdivision.

Similarly, a large building subdivided into live-work spaces, workshops, studios or retail stores may  be able to get a separate utility meter and service for each tenancy.

Alternately, the landlord can take one service, and fit his own "submeters" and then rebill the tenants.

So what happens when the 4-unit apartments are turned back into a single family home? Awkward.  The power company may be able to bill them on one bill. Electrically, you have to live with it, and keep each service's hots, neutrals and grounds separate.  If you've got four 60A services and want to fit a heat pump with a 70A aux heat, you've got a problem.

You can't feed one main panel from two meters.  (unless the power company specifically wires you up that way, and remember, the point of demarcation isn't the meter, it's below the meter, and in that case, it would be on them).  This would be paralleling without using equipment made for paralleling, and would raise huge issues for overcurrent protection, maintenance shut-off, and finding main panels able to support merging main feeds (you won't).  And if any of the services are out of phase with each other -- KABOOM! That last is why even if you were do this harebrained idea, you'd want overcurrent protection before the merge.

What you can do is install one new, proper main service (e.g. 200A) with one main panel.  Then later at your leisure, cut over each old panel to be a subpanel of the new main.  If you are in Europe, the new main could be 3-phase and serve a single phase to each subpanel.  So for instance, in that case, you'd provision your heat pump's 70A aux heat directly off the new main, bypassing the subpanels altogether.  You could cut loads over to the new main at your leisure, and eventually deprecate the old panels.  But --

Just to sanity check here, are you sure the building's best value isn't subdivided?  If so, take care to arrange things so a rollback is possible.  If so, the plan might be leave the subpanels intact, and go with submetering if that day ever comes.


Can I Run Electrical Wire through sewage pipe/ vent

The answer is NO:
electrical wire has to be used in an approved manner.
UF is approved for direct burial and use in an approved wireway or other listed methods.
a sewer pipe is not an approved method in any of the articles associated with NEC 340.10: used permitted for underground feeder type UF.
the answer is NO it is not permitted.


You want to add backing to the inside sides of the existing studs as well as to the centre of the span. The simplest way to do this is to cut the new backing (preferably 2x4, or whatever the existing stud dimensions are) about 4" longer than the height of the opening and screw them to the existing studs. The cut one more piece of backing to the same length as the other two, but this time place it in the centre of the opening and screw through the top and bottom of the existing drywall to attach it. See the picture below for reference.

This method will be much easier than trying to score the existing drywall back on the existing studs and will provide a solid patch.


No water flow through zone of water boiler, all other zones working. How to get water flowing?

In my personal experience, this is most often caused by a section of the pipe loop in question being frozen. Tends to be aggravated if there's a setback (automatic or manual) at night causing a long "off" time when the weather is particularly cold, or a woodstove causing a long off time for the boiler. Having a "time override" on the circulator/zone can be helpful in that case (to make it run a few minutes every hour, even if there's no call for heat from the thermostat) since the heating pipes are often located in the coldest edges and corners of the house.
Could also happen due to an air blockage causing no flow in that loop while it's particularly cold out.
I managed to thaw one by making sure the boiler inlet was open to refill it from the auto fill valve and wet-vacuuming (a few gallons of) water from the bleeder until I had hot water to the bleeder, which then warmed enough of the pipe to let the ice clog melt and flow resume. After which, more bleeding, since new water always comes with some dissolved air that needs to be bled out.
A different (long-term) solution to loops freezing is to convert the system to polypropylene glycol and water antifreeze mixture. That complicates the fill procedure: you need a pump (not your circulator, which is optimized for a different sort of pumping) rather than just letting water pressure do the trick and you need a reservoir for the antifreeze (and no leaks, but you want no leaks anyway.)


Resource for ballparking current home construction costs?

As a former construction estimator, I would suggest that you get in touch with the contractor sales department at a building supplies store in the area in which you're considering building.  Quite often the estimators there will have a ballpark "per-square-foot" price for materials, and may have an idea of a ballpark price for labour, too.  They can probably refer you to reputable builders as well.

That said, there are really far too many variables for a ballpark estimate like that to be at all useful.  You can get a house to lock-up fairly cheaply, but it's the finishing work that's really going to determine the end cost.  The cost of a beautiful metal tile roof is going to be a lot more than 20-year asphalt shingles, and the cost of vinyl siding is going to be a lot less than stone, as examples.

To get any kind of accuracy in an estimate, you're going to need to have a set of plans and you'll need to decide what exactly you want in terms of finishing, land, appliances, etc.  Anything shy of that is really just going to be pulling numbers out of thin air.


Two check valves in a series on discharge pipe

The check valve is there to prevent backflow from the discharge pipe (which is usually vertical as it leaves the sump) from filling or partially filling the sump well back up.

There are two main failure modes for a check valve - stuck closed and stuck open.

If the check valve is stuck closed, then the sump pump will not discharge the water when it runs.  Worst case the water will just circulate continuously and the sump pump will run continuously.

If the check valves fails stuck open, then the pump will discharge the water in the sump, but what remains in the vertical portion of the discharge pipe or the downward sloping (back to the sump) part of the discharge pipe will flow back into the sump pit.

So with two check valves in parallel, you protect against the stuck-closed scenario (as it is unlikely that both check valves will fail in the same manner), but are actually more likely to have a stuck-open fault, since if either check valve fails open the discharge water can flow back into the sump well.

  EDIT 1

OP changed his question to mean two check valves in series, not parallel.  So what Jack said.


Single switch controls GFCI outlet and lights

The apartment "electrician" is correct.

The feed for the receptacle is going through the switch. Probably so things don't get left on when someone has left the room. I agree it is not the way it should be but you can't change that.

You could replace the switch (or have the "electrician" replace it) with a lighted switch or a combination switch / receptacle like this and wire the receptacle always hot like it should be. (The lighted switch is lit when the switch is off.)

Either way you can have a night light.

Good luck and stay safe!


Given the length and aspect ratio that you've proposed, it will be very difficult to meaningfully support the desk the long way. 16' is just way too long to get any support across. Certainly a 2x4 will be basically useless, even "on edge". Also, consider the ergonomics of having a thick tabletop surface: if this is going to be a computer workstation area you do not want to have a very thick top since that will force people to sit too low and have their keyboard too high.

I suggest ignoring the ends and building the desk to be supported the short way, i.e. cantilevered out from the wall. If you look around you will find various floating / triangle desk bracket designs. You might also consider whether adding a few legs would really be a problem; that would make the desk substantially stronger (and/or easier to build).

Whatever you do, make sure the desk is sturdy. People will invariable pile a desk with books, computer equipment, etc. and even sit on & lean against them.


Should I use round or rectangular electrical boxes for stubbing exterior security cameras?

All the ones I've seen seem to be sized for installation on a light box.  You want to use as shallow a box as you can get away with so you don't decrease the wall insulation.  If you use the really shallow ones, you might be able to surface mount them on the sheathing over the tyvek.

Do you even need a box?  If the camera is PoE, you're running low voltage and tiny currents.

I think your best bet is to look up some of the cameras, then go to the Mfgs website, and read the installation guide.

Don't put them all at 8 feet.  That's really easy to hit with a spray can of paint.  Mind you:  Any camera is subject to a paint ball gun

You can often find dummy cameras.  These can give a bit of false security while you are waiting to afford the others, and they can mark the places where your cable comes through the wall.

Place one camera where it can read the license plate, both coming and going.

Place at least one camera where it can get a good face shot of someone leaving the house.  These cameras are much more difficult to scout, and most thieves aren't actively looking for surveillance on their way out.


Is there a pulley configuration that can both reduce distance and weight?

There are lots of ways to do this, but first and foremost, you should understand that counterweights on garage doors have gone out of fashion for safety as well as size/complexity reasons. Springs have almost entirely replaced them.
The classical approach to keeping the counterweights in stud bays is to divide and conquer. The counterweights do not need to be located in the space-restricted area right by the door - you can run cables all the way to back wall of the garage, or all along the side wall(s) and get multiple stud bays involved by using multiple cables to multiple counterweights.
When choosing components, especially cable, cable clamps and pulleys, consider what happens when a cable breaks, or becomes unclamped. This is not the place to choose the cheapest thing you can get. i.e. concrete-filled paint cans are perhaps a dubious choice for the counterweight itself, unless you embed a suitable anchor in the concrete - a paint can handle is not what you want to entrust with holding up a moving counterweight for some number of years.


Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.

AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece  where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.

OR

I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high.

You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.

Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).

You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly.   It  is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.

If you put it on a threaded connection  just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.


The CFM of the compressor is the volume of air the compressor can move at the rated pressure. Your chair tires have a tiny volume just about any compressor on the market can handle them.  The peak or max pressure is what you need to look at.  The peak or max pressure is the value the compressor shuts down at for safety. You want this pressure to be higher than your needed pressure for losses in the hoses and the bit you loose when disconnecting the air fitting. All the pancake compresses I know of (even harbor freight) will have sufficient SCFM , if the max pressure is 125 this should more than enough to reach 90 psi on your tires once the tank fills without having to run longer than to fill the tank.


Are splices made with insulated cable connectors required to be inside a junction box?

You'll need a box, and a pretty chunky one at that

Splicing wire this large is indeed done with insulated mechanical splice connectors like the one you linked -- you will need one per wire, and a torque screwdriver or wrench, marked and calibrated in inch-pounds, to install them properly.  As to containing the splices, you will need something larger than a normal junction box -- in fact, what you need is called a pull box, and needs to be sized according to NEC 314.28(A):

  (A) Minimum Size. For raceways containing conductors
  of 4 AWG or larger that are required to be insulated, and for
  cables containing conductors of 4 AWG or larger, the minimum dimensions of pull or junction boxes installed in a
  raceway or cable run shall comply with (A)(1) through
  (A)(3). Where an enclosure dimension is to be calculated
  based on the diameter of entering raceways, the diameter
  shall be the metric designator (trade size) expressed in the
  units of measurement employed.

  (1) Straight Pulls. In straight pulls, the length of the box
  or conduit body shall not be less than eight times the metric
  designator (trade size) of the largest raceway.

  (2) Angle or U Pulls, or Splices. Where splices or where
  angle or U pulls are made, the distance between each raceway entry inside the box or conduit body and the opposite
  wall of the box or conduit body shall not be less than six
  times the metric designator (trade size) of the largest raceway
  in a row. This distance shall be increased for additional entries
  by the amount of the sum of the diameters of all other raceway
  entries in the same row on the same wall of the box. Each row
  shall be calculated individually, and the single row that provides the maximum distance shall be used.

  Exception: Where a raceway or cable entry is in the wall
  of a box or conduit body opposite a removable cover the
  distance from that wall to the cover shall be permitted to
  comply with the distance required for one wire per terminal
  in Table 312.6(A).

  The distance between raceway entries enclosing the
  same conductor shall not be less than six times the metric
  designator (trade size) of the larger raceway.

  When transposing cable size into raceway size in
  314.28(A)(1) and (A)(2), the minimum metric designator
  (trade size) raceway required for the number and size of
  conductors in the cable shall be used.

Given that you are splicing in this box, and that a 4/3 W/G cable is equivalent to 4 4AWG THHNs (actually a bit less due to the ground being bare, but lets ignore that for now) or 212mm2 of fill, which barely fits down most types of 1" conduit, we wind up needing at least a 6" square box, and likely something more like an 8" square box.  Fortunately, a NEMA 1 pull box of that size (such as this) isn't too hard to get one's paws on -- your local electrical supply house should definitely be able to get one in for you.

Grounding the pull box, by the way, will require you to use either:

a four-way insulated mechanical splice for the ground wires as well as an 8AWG copper pigtail from the insulated splice to the green ground screw in the box.
or a ground bar in the pull box, attached to the box where the green ground screw goes, with the ground wires landed on that.


Why does the exhaust in my basement bathroom drip condensation in warm weather?

Condensation occurs when warm moist air contacts a cooler surface. This typically occurs inside the duct, but can occur outside the duct in hot humid climates when exhausting relatively cool, conditioned air. Condensation can be minimized by employing insulation to reduce the temperature differential. It can also be managed by controlling where the condensation collects and drains, such as sloping the duct towards the outlet so any internal condensation drips outside.

In the case of external condensation, controlling via collection and drainage is difficult. Insulation is the best defense. Using closed cell insulation minimizes the chance humid air will reach the duct surface, but if any does, it is trapped by the impervious nature. Using open cell or fiber insulation allows humid air through, but also allows it to escape when conditions change.

In constantly humid conditions, closed cell insulation is a better choice, but if there are cycles of drier conditions, open cell or fiber insulation is a better choice.


What material is used to fill cracks in wood that looks black afterward?

In many cases that is epoxy, mixed with lamp black or another colorant. (There are tints which can be used to more closely match the color of the surrounding wood, but in fact black usually looks pretty reasonable.)


Can I replace two Siemens QP type, handle tied, single pole 15 amp breakers with a tandem QT type in the same configuration?

NO. Your current configuration puts each hot on a different leg, resulting in 240 volts (120+120). The tandem breaker you’re proposing puts both hots on the same 120 volt leg. This will result in zero volts across the hots. If this were a multi-wire branch circuit, you’d end up with double current on the neutral.

What you could use is a compatible quad breaker (4 breakers in the space for two) with appropriate handle ties to produce two 240 volt circuits or one 240 and two 120s.


How can I prevent water from being fed to my foundation through the gas-line ditch?

are you sure they haven't damaged a drain or water inlet line in the process of installing the gas?
if a water inlet line was damaged and is on the inside of the meter it would spin the meter slowly (over say an hour or two) when you don't use any water in the house for that time.
i would call the people that did the gas pipe install and ask them to find and fix. they're covered by insurance..and accidents happen.

[edit] maybe they hit a drain pipe instead.
whatever the problem, they should fix it. you can't install a pipe in a way as to create a ditch that would cause moisture problems under normal conditions, which includes normal rain. to cause problems the ditch would need a considerable amount of bedding screenings and wrong slope, to start causing problems straight away just from rain infiltration into soil. or do you get five inches of rain each time?

you can't interfere (change) the bedding material (e.g. pouring in cement) so alternatives like french drain or deep auger holes (only if hydrology of the soil allows) are hard work and expensive.


Assuming you are in the US, the cost to correct it likely falls under the limits for Small Claims Court. So you could request a remedy from the builder and if they refuse, sue them in Small Claims under "implied warranty", meaning it is implied that something you buy will do what it is intended to do. Exhaust fans must exhaust, this one never did, so the length of time, although possibly subject to a statute of limitations, should not be a factor. In many places the statute of limitations is 3 or 4 years, others might be 7, so get on it!
This of course assumes that the builder is still a viable business entity.


How do I install an air conditioner on a horizontal sliding double window that has a 51/2 inch gap between the 2 windows?

I assume you mean 5.5in (normally written 5 1/2"). That's too narrow for any window unit. You should get a portable in-room air conditioner, where the machinery sits inside your home and you just have exhaust hoses that need to vent to outside through your window.


Should I upgrade my electrical panel during a solar installation

Yes I think you should upgrade the panel now, but that is really just an opinion, partly based on disliking split breakers. Making changes after the solar install could get more complicated.

If you decide not to change the panel then no, you shouldn't move the service feeder wires to the directly to the main lugs. You need overcurrent protection for the panel. I do question if the existing stab in "Main Breaker" is Listed for use as Service Equipment, usually some type of screw or bracket is present to secure stab-in breakers to the panel https://www.gexpro.com/usg/Root-Category/Power-Distribution/Circuit-Breakers/Circuit-Breaker---Accessories/Hold-Down-Kits/GE-THQLRK1-Main-Breaker-Retainer%2C-PowerMark-Gold%2C-12-42-Circuit%2C-THQL/p/79046 , I just don't see it. Depending on panel model you may be able to get a kit to mount a main breaker to replace the main lugs.

$1200 sounds within reason, but that's not a two men for 8 hour price or job.


Durability.
Appearance.

The end. :)
I suspect that you're asking what to use in your particular case. That looks like painted pressure-treated SPF (spruce/pine/fir) in 5/4x6 (five quarter by six inches--about 1" by 5-1/2" actual). It's very common. Be sure to let it dry adequately before painting.
Some brands call that "solid color stain", but to me anything that doesn't penetrate the wood and peels like that is just glorified paint. Anyway, look for that type of product to match what you have. If you're replacing it all consider the pre-stained "cedar tone" variety.


Would removing the back-board of cupboards help against mould/mold?

They are structural, but if you leave the mounting rails at top and bottom, the middle could be opened, if the cabinet have a normal load.

A full back helps resist racking.  Its less important if several cabinets are attached together as a group.

Of course, exterior water intrusion is your real culprit and the best focus during the spring: downspouts and reversed grade toward house are the two most common causes.


Why would three-way switch travelers both show as hot?

If it was wired with knob and tube originally, it's possible that the 3 way switch was old enough to be wired as "Carter 3-way":

Image from Popular Mechanics, October, 1971

In this setup, the load is switched between H-N (on), H-H (off), N-H (on), and N-N (off). Since the 3 ways have the load on the common terminal, the "travelers" can both test hot.

Another old 3-way setup that used to be common with knob and tube was a travelling bus or Calfiornia 3 way:

Image from http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/threeway-nightmare-41332/index2/

I've run into this a couple times, although in all the times I've seen it the neutral was being switched.  It's possible to do the same thing with the hot being switched, in which case you can also have 2 live "travelers".

Note that the top layout hasn't met code for a long time (or the bottom with a switched neutral), but at the same time you can't assume that you won't run into them (or various other 3-way wiring patterns) in an old house.  The best way to test for non-conventional wiring like this is with a multimeter at the fixture.  Test (what should be) the hot and neutral with different combinations of switch positions and you should be able to sort out how it was wired.


Should I install a plastic vapor barrier below the insulation between my ceiling and attic floor?

Air sealing is more important than vapor sealing.  All assemblies (wall and ceiling) need to be able to dry out.  If you prevent air passage AND provide sufficient insulation to prevent condensation, you don't need or want an impervious layer.

Cables,plumbing vents, ducts and lighting fixtures are notorious sources for air leaks.  These can be stopped with many materials, including caulk, expanding foam and fire stop (special foam or mineral wool), as appropriate.


Ceiling Fan Installation - Nonstandard setup for Downrod Fan

You have to install an electrical box. What you have now is not only incorrect but it could be dangerous.

You could, depending on the access to the attic, box out a small section of the ceiling and put a regular ceiling fan box. The other option is an angled electrical box, not sure they have one that will match your ceiling slope but search for "cathedral ceiling fan box" or something similar.

Either option will require you to secure it correctly to the framing to support a ceiling fan.

Ultimately this is what you are trying to get to:


Removing or replacing a post supporting a bolted joint in a long glue lam beam

You have a lot going on at that point in your roof. I would strongly recommend you get a civil engineer to have a look if you are considering removing the post.

If you only want to replace the post with a steel column, that would be simple. You can google the strength of a wood column in the dimensions you have and select a similar or stronger steel pole.

From the picture I can confirm that it is a load bearing pillar, the beam that stretches from the windows toward the 4 x 6 vertical timber is transferring it's load to the timber.


What do you call a cover for outdoor main sewage cleanout and where can I find one?

They're called valve boxes, but may also be called cleanout boxes or monument boxes though that seems rare for the residential application, and should be available at most any home center or home-improvement-related store.

Image taken from Home Depot, and is used as an example only


Will sealing off rafter spaces and unusable spaces help my attic insulation plan?

First of all, foam and plastic are fire hazards. Don't turn your attic into a giant match head for your house.

It sounds like your attic ceiling is not yet insulated, so that is where you should start.  The fiberglass stuff goes on sale pretty regularly at the big box homecenters. You want the paper backed stuff. The paper makes it easy to staple to rafters and it will stay put once it's up. Your roof requires some air circulation, so before putting up insulation between the rafters you will need to put up ventilation channels. The big box stores sell them, though I can't recall the brand. If you can't buy it all at once, do it a roll at a time until the whole ceiling is insulated.

When you have the entire ceiling insulated you will probably be surprised at how much warmer it is.

But your job isn't really done at this point. The craft paper backed insulation must be covered with drywall in order to pass any type of fire code (I'm not a fire code expert, but the insulation says so right on it). So once it's insulated, put up drywall. No need to plaster or paint yet, jut get the insulation covered. Start by making a peak ceiling and then fill that whole space with fluffy insulation. Then would you way down until you're ready to do the kneewall. Drywall is also fairly cheap. Just requires time and probably a friend to install.

If you close off the space first and it still is not warm it is VERY difficult to insulate after the fact.

Good luck!


You can try something similar to the fix for a drywall hole, just with glue instead of screws due to how thin the material is:

Cleanup and smooth the opening and make a replacement piece that fits the hole.
Install a small piece of wood across the back side of the opening.  You need this to attach your patch to.  Use a strong glue (liquid nail perhaps) to have it stick in place.  Because of how thin the material is, you may want to install a few pieces to provide support at the edges.  If you don't have a small piece of wood, pickup a paint stirrer at the hardware store, they're usually free.
Glue the patch in place.
Wood filler or spackle around the edges.
Sand.
Prime and paint.


If you take one long 12/2 wire directly from the source to the switch and then connect from there to every receptacle, then it can all be done with 12/2. However, if you plan to take the wire from the breaker to an outlet first and then eventually the switch, you'd have to run 12/3 between everything but to the breaker and wire nut the hot together all the way until the switch.

You can do this all with 12/2.


Water dripping out from freezer compartment onto floor. What do?

Mm the drain is a simple hole made by a piece of formed plastic, pull the drawer out pour some warm water wipe up and repeat not boiling water that will deform the plastic after a few times if the plug doesn’t break loose a small screwdriver may be needed to push the plug out once you have the hole cleared and the bottom wiped up it should start cycling normally. I have seen a small chunk of food or plastic cause this problem, the plug needs to be cleared and the majority of the water in the bottom cleaned up and it will normally work correctly.


Prevent glue from oozing out of the tube

When you squeeze a tube or bottle you are increasing the pressure on the inside of the container, and the material inside the tube is forced out.  For thicker materials like glue or sealant, it takes some time and more pressure to make its way out of the tube.

For plastic bottles and tubes, when you release pressure with your hand, the container springs back to something close to the original shape and there is no more pressure in the tube.  However, with a metal tube (or similar, rigid material), the tube will attempt to keep its new shape.  The metal will continue to apply pressure to the material in the tube and the material will drip or ooze out.

The common solution is to only squeeze a small portion of the tube, and realize that the product will not come out immediately.  Squeeze a little, then wait.  However, even when you are careful, you might get more product than you wanted and trying to squeeze the sides of the tube to make the shape more of a cylinder is a good technique.

The easiest way to "squeeze a small portion" is to squeeze from the bottom.  When you squeeze the middle, you are deforming the entire side of the tube.  When you squeeze a little at the bottom and flatten the tube as you go the pressure you apply is very localized.


Should I run my condensate pump after pouring bleach water into it for cleaning?

The condensate pump should have a float switch in it so that it automatically comes on when there is water in it, and turns off when it's empty.

It is also possible to run the pump by pressing the test button (if it has one) or shorting the terminals on the float switch (if exposed) or in numerous other manners. Normally, you would not do this. However, if you do for whatever reason, then it is in these circumstances that you do not want to run the pump dry.

In your case, I would let the chlorinated water sit for up to 30 minutes, then pour in as much water as needed to completely flush the chlorine out of the well, pump and discharge line. Otherwise, if the pump has rubber seals the chlorine may damage them.


Is it ok to use a gas stove with gas pressure lower than what's specified?

Is your gas stove set up for using LPG? If it was used in a home with "Natural Gas" piped in, that is very different from LPG and requires different burners, orifices etc. They are not interchangeable.


Furnace relay - old one says 18 LRA, replacement says 48 LRA - Does it matter?

The LRA is simply the maximum amperage the relay is rated for when starting up a motor. Having a higher LRA just means you have a higher rated relay for starting currents. Having more will not matter.
The FLA or full load amperage is the rated operating amperage which in your case is the same as the original.

In many cases it's easier to just make a higher rated relay and use it for many different applications.


The sum of the breakers in a panel means almost nothing.  As long as all the wires attached to those breakers are suitable for 100 amps, you can add as many as you want.

However, if your service and main breaker are 100 amps, you are still limited to 100 amps total.  If you are adding enough large loads in the garage to need a 100 amp subpanel, you may regularly trip your main breaker and shutoff all your power - which means you would need to upgrade the service and main panel to provide enough power for everything.


Gas Fireplace Won't Stay Lit With Fake Logs In Place

Well, it must have been the temperature.  After I left the fireplace on without the logs for a half hour and let the whole stove get nice and hot, I turned the burner off, put the logs back, and turned it back on.  It's been going for an hour now without any shutoffs.


Default setting for dimmable light bulb on a non-dimmable lamp

It will be on at full brightness.

A dimmable lamp is just that, dimmable, but it needs a dimmer to do so.


Is it possible to use a dryer vent as a heat source in the winter?

Dryer vent air is full of water vapor and dust. I wouldn't want to blow it into my house.

I do not know how much heat (BTU's) a dryer outputs during a run but it seems like it would be a small amount, and of course most people don't run their dryer very often - maybe a handful of times a week.