GE breaker part numbering explained

GE loadcenter-type breakers come in various flavors, but there are a few things in common.  First off, all the part numbers start with "T" -- this is likely because the line was acquired when GE picked up an upstart breaker maker called Trumbull Electric.  The next one or two letters (H, HH, X) designate the interrupting rating of the breaker -- the normal H designates a standard residential 10kAIC breaker, with a few exceptions to be noted below, while HH and X are used for higher interrupting ratings found in commercial work.  Some very old (Trumbull-era) breakers lack this letter in their part number, indicating they are only rated to 5kAIC -- this is a good indication they are obsolete.  The next two (or occasionally three) letters indicate the type of breaker:

QL denotes the standard "Q-line", plug-on-type, 1" wide breaker
QD denotes a "double-wide" (4 slots in a 2x2 pattern) breaker used for 150-225A ratings -- these breakers are 10kAIC unless denoted with a raised interrupting rating by a single H in the part number.  They are cable-in/cable-out types by default, although they are available as plug-on types as well, denoted by a "QDL" in the part number.
QP denotes a "half-width" (1/2" wide), plug-on-type breaker (GE's equivalent to what's called a "double-stuff", "cheater", or "tandem" breaker).  These can only be used in slots that specifically permit them.
QC denotes a cable-in/cable-out type of breaker, used for applications like subdivided protection for large electric heating loads.  Instead of plugging into a panel to get their power, they have a lug terminal on each end and thus can be used in a situation where there is no busbar to plug on to.

Following this letter prefix for the breaker type/series (what you see on the labeling on your loadcenter), there is 4 or 5 digit part number:

The first digit denotes the number of breaker poles present
The second digit denotes the voltage rating of the breaker, save for THQP's which lack it and are always 120/240V as a result.  It will always be 1 on breakers used in residential work, for a 120/240V slash rated breaker (120V line-to-neutral, 240V line-to-line).
A few devices will have letters after the second digit, to denote unprotected switching -- you probably won't run into these.
The remaining digits in the part number specify the trip rating (amp rating) of the breaker.

Any designations after the amp rating indicate special breaker features, such as ground fault, arc fault, or dual function (arc & ground fault) protection.  (There are others as well, but you generally won't find them in residential work.)

Specifically:

GFT denotes a current-generation ground fault breaker (the T here is for self-test functionality as per the current UL943)
AF2 denotes a current-generation combination arc fault breaker (AF was used for the previous generation of GE combination arc fault breakers -- the differences are fairly subtle and only impact multi-wire or 240VAC branch circuits)
DF denotes dual-function breakers that combine arc & ground fault protection

Of course, not all part numbers are made -- check a current GE breaker catalog for details on what you can get.


What would cause air to be pushed into pipes from a well tank?

It's possible it's the pressure tank. To check the pre-charge, turn the pump off, and then open a faucet to let all the water out. Check the pressure in the tank using a tire pressure gauge (there is a valve on the top). This should be 2-10 PSI below the "start" pressure of the pump: eg, if your pump comes on at 40psi (on at 40/off at 60 is the most common setup), the pressure tank pre-charge should be 30 to 38psi. If it's lower, fill it (and keep your faucet open). If the bladder is broken, you won't be able to fill it and there will be air coming out of the open faucet.

It's also possible something is wrong with the check valve and air is getting in the line from the well to the house. To check this, turn the water off to your house (usually there is a valve somewhere after the pressure tank) -- it's essential to isolate the pressure tank from the rest of your house to do this test. Run the pump until the pressure tank is full and it turns off, and then watch the pressure gauge. If it's slowly going down, you are losing water somewhere either due to a break in the pipe, or a broken check valve.


What is the name for this round metal drain cover?

Sump cover. Technically what you have is a Rainwater Collection Cistern, so Cistern cover, Cistern access cover or Cistern hatch cover all would apply.


Is this red oak or white oak hardwood flooring?

It's impossible to say for sure from your picture since it is already stained.  But generally speaking the approach to this is trial and error with scrap pieces. You'll want to make sure the piece of totally dry before comparing the colour and it can look quite a bit different when wet.

It's unlikely you will get an exact match even using the exact same product since wear and tear and UV take their toll on floors.  The only way to get an exact match across both floors is to refinish the old and new with the same product.


PEX instead of good ol'copper pipe for fresh water in residential house?

The reason this is done is because Copper costs tons more money. Otherwise the 'greatness' of it would not be a challenge to copper as copper has antimicrobial properties and is very durable.

The PEX is run through the house to keep it repairable and simple - I do not think there has been any issue with doing this.

I have heard they can run it under the slab for in house water supply.
They do run PEX in the slab for in SLAB heating.

BTW: I like the OLD SCHOOL Copper - works great in the water supply and it works great for Air Conditioning units, and definitely works great for electricity .. next thing you know the Power Lines in the house will be plastic..


Can I replace the knob and tube wiring in the ceiling but not the walls?

It can be and frequently is replaced piecemeal, but I'd certainly be in favor of wholesale replacement if it were my house.

If we accept "1880s-1930s" as the range of its general use (wikipedia, not any particularly great research effort) it's 80-130 years old. And any impact it's having on your insurance rates won't end until it's all gone.

Plus, you can insulate the walls, too, once it's gone. And you'll have ground wires.


Google "Smoke Pencil" or "Wizard Stick". Both use fog machine technology to vaporize a small amount of glycerine, producing a cool stream of smoke. The former is the professional product; the latter is a cheaper toy, but probably good enough for your purposes. (And, you definitely don't want to be messing around with flames in a dense tangle of air ducts. Could get exciting fast.)


Is a duplex outlet's max amperage rating for each socket or the whole unit?

Each socket can supply up to 20 amps.

However, the total draw of everything on the circuit can also not exceed 20 amps.

Therefore, if you only have one device on the circuit, it can draw up to 20A from any one outlet.
However, if you have a 15A device on the circuit, the remaining devices can only draw up to 5A.

Basically, the sum of the current draws for every device on the circuit has to be less then 20A.


Water management and shed base for two sheds built against the houses on adjacent properties

Sloping the soil would never be a bad idea, but more important is supporting the perimeter with a proper foundation. Why do you need a slab at all? Assuming you have a reason for using a slab I would normally recommend a "floating slab" setup, but that is probably not feasible because you are placing a pre-built structure there. A floating slab would require the perimeter foundation to extend above grade in order for your floor to be level with grade. Not possible because your walls and floor are already built. An alternative would be one like shown below (dimensions shown could be reduced appropriate to your structure size). It is critical that the soil and gravel below be compacted.


Without being there to see the problem its hard to give a sure fire "here's the problem answer" but Tubs do not have aerators. I'm assuming your sinks both do.

This coupled with the note that you indicated you just drained sludge from your hot water tank leads me to believe you are on well water or hard water, or at least, potentially untreated water.

I would suggest removing the aerator on whichever sink is easy to remove on and then try it. I have seen in my mother in laws house an aerator so plugged that it didn't even allow a drop of water out. Since you disturbed sediment in the tank, it likely set larger pieces free and thus clogged the aerator.

You can usually separate the screens in an aerator and clean them and the plastic diverter/distributor parts and reuse them. Eventually its easier to just replace them, they can be had at any local hardware store for a nominal price. Bring yours with you if this is the case because they have different thread types and sizes and depth.

In the future, when you clear sludge from the tank, run the tub for a good while before trying the sinks. Also, it is possible to plug toilet lines with sludge as well.


Are power outlets for window A/C units likely to support 220V?

That is a 120v outlet.

220v outlets use different shaped slots - both horizontal instead of vertical. Like this:

The plugs and outlets are made to be incompatible with 120v ones because plugging a device into the wrong voltage outlet could cause serious damage or fire.

IF that is a dedicated circuit for the AC it can be rewired as 240v quite easily by replacing the breaker and wiring it differently at both ends, using the existing wire in the wall.  It will still be limited to whatever amperage the existing run supports - probably 15 or 20 amps depending on the wire gauge.

If other things are on the same circuit you would need to run new wire from the electrical panel.

Assuming you rent the apartment (not a condo that you own) you would usually need the landlord's permission to get it changed.


How to bury cable with the intention of adding lighting?

In my opinion the best thing to do with "intention of future..." is empty conduit. Under NEC rules, 18" deep unless protected by various means (such as a concrete path on top) which alter the required burial depth. Your local rules may vary, since I also don't recognize "NYY" as a cable type I'm familiar with in North America.

Buried cable is making a bet that you guessed right. Conduit lets you guess right about where it goes, without concern about the actual wiring until you get to that point, and you can change it out later if need be, without having to dig the trench again.

I like to add at least one more conduit than I know what I'm using them for - conduit is cheap, trenches are expensive.


How to measure water pump pressure in a spa heating system?

Another solution might be to just buy and install a new pump. If that solves it, you're golden. If not, you now have a spare for when the pump does eventually die.

Obvious caution: Electricity and water. Be VERY sure of what you're doing when you make the connections and seal them up.

(I presume you've already checked the obvious -- made sure all valves are fully open, that any flexible pipes aren't kinked, and so on.)


How do I fix squishy tiles in shower floor?

Even the best  re-grout jobs will fail if the sub-floor under the tile is compromised in some way. If the tile are installed on a damaged or wet sub-floor they will eventually loosen from the thin-set that bonds them to the floor. Over time this will be evidenced by cracks in the grout joints.  Before you try another grouting remove some of the loosest tile. Observe the thin-set below. It should appear solid with no cracks. Tap it with a handle of a screwdriver. It should sound solid not hollow.  If the tile removes with thin-set attached you will probably need to replace the entire floor. This is the time to ensure that the sub-floor and floor joists haven't been affected by water leaking through the tile.   If the showers' tile floor does need to be removed the standard procedure entails also removing about 12-14 inches of the lower wall so that a protective membrane can be installed. If you are comfortable with tiling, masonry, and carpentry this is well within a DIY-ers capabilities and can save a lot of money.


I am trying to find a way to open this lock to replace battery

No gurantee, but see those little holes around the collar on the back handle? You can see two of them in your photo. Those often either (a) give a tool a grip to unlock & unthread the collar, allowing you access to full disassembly or (b) require insertion of a tool to release a spring that keeps the collar in place. that would be my starting point.


Is it possible to tell from labels if the breakers are AFCI / GFCI in the main panel?

First, none of you current breakers are GFCI or AFCI. If they were, they would have a "Test" button.
Second, you will not be able to fit enough AFCI/GFCI breakers in your panel, even if the panel can take them. This is because your panel is full of tandem (half-width) breakers and there are, to my knowledge, no current AFCI or GFCI breakers in that form-factor. The internal electronics takes up too much space.
If you want to update your breakers, you will have to replace your panel with a larger one.
Edit: as Harper noted in his answer, the other option is to add a new subpanel fed off of the current panel and move most or all of the circuits to the new subpanel. The advantage is that the sub can be installed safely by turning off the main in the existing panel. Replacing the panel would require your power company come and pull the meter to allow the existing panel to be replaced, at a higher cost. (This assumes you do not have a disconnect breaker at the meter. If you do, the advantage disappears.)


This is a short question for a long answer. I am going to assume that you live in a mobile home or manufactured housing unit that has aluminum wiring in it. And what you are experiencing is the eventual deterioration of that type of system.

You need to inspect and repair all of the wiring termination, starting from you panel and continue all the way to your last outlet. If you do not feel you have the experience to complete the task yourself I would advise you find a trusted contractor and employee them to do it.

I am sorry to deliver the bad news but your situation requires immediate inspection and repair to prevent further damage to your system. It may be at an expense you were not prepared but I feel it must be dealt with.

Sorry to deliver the bad news. I wish you the best of luck.


Connecting GFCI switch with digital timer switch

I'd go GFCI->switch->fan if you can, but if not you should be fine. Most GFCIs are made to stay on even if the input power is turned off.
We have a GFCI in our garage on a switch for some lights and over 3 or 4 years it only tripped once or twice.


How can I tell if there's an electrical issue or if I have a bad dryer?

It is possible it is the dryers, but not likely.  You have checked the socket for the source of the problem and it doesn't seem to be there.  Next check the cord you are using and double check the wiring of the cord to the dryer.


Found it!  It’s the breaker.
It’s in the wrong place, because somebody really worked to defeat the keying meant to force it into the right place.
This is going to take a little explaining, though.
Note your interlocked breaker.  Normal 2-pole breakers are two complete breaker spaces wide.  Each row of spaces has the opposite pole of power in it, so being 2 spaces wide means it is able to grab both poles, for 240V.
Read more about spaces, poles, and double-stuffs here - but GE’s double-stuffs are special and that article doesn’t fully apply.
Q-line does a fairly unique trick
Your GE Q-line breaker is 1” wide.  At first glance, it looks like a duplex, but it’s not.  GE uses a totally unique scheme (well, shared with Crouse-Hinds and FPE) where they don’t force you to get balky quadplex breakers, they sell actual half-width breakers.  The 1-pole breakers are 1/2” wide and occupy half a space.
Their 2-pole breakers (i.e. yours) are particularly special: They ‘straddle the line’ between two spaces: So half the breaker is in space 1, and half the breaker is in space 2.  That lets them grab both poles.  That also leaves an empty half-space above and below them, which you’re supposed to fill with 1-pole 1/2” (1/2-space) breakers.

Or, if you prefer, you can have another 2-pole breaker immediately below the first 2-pole, grabbing the bottom half of space 2 and the top half of space 3. Rinse wash repeat, as tall a stack as you please.  You finish the stack with a 1/2-space 1-pole breaker.

This means that GE 2-pole breakers must straddle two spaces.  It can never occupy a whole space, since then, it could only access one pole.  And in fact, the breakers and buses are keyed to make this sort of mis-positioning impossible.
And your breaker is in the wrong place.
Note how your generator interlock breaker is crowded up against the top edge of the panel.  There is no half-space above it, as we know there must be.   That means the entire breaker is in space 1 - both legs - and that means both legs are on the same pole, which means they are a dead short to each other.  No wonder the gen breaker trips!
Since the breaker is keyed to be unable to go there, I bet if you pull the breaker, you will find someone used a Dremel or Skil Saw to cut a notch on the breaker, to let it slide over the bus stab. Or just hammered it into place and it fits poorly.
That’s because whoever installed it, realized their interlock kit was made for full-size 2-space breakers only, and would not work with this double-stuff. They were under time pressure to get a signoff and a check, so they horked it just like this, and had no idea how badly they screwed it up.
There’s another possibility: the generator crew might’ve Done The Right Thing, and then somebody else came along to add a circuit, and went “Oh hey, I can double-stuff this generator interlock breaker...”
Fixing it
You can try placing the breaker correctly - 1/2 of a space downward; merely swap it with the 1-pole half-space breaker directly beneath it.  However, I suspect the design of the interlock won’t play nice with that 2-pole double-stuff, even if it was placed correctly.   So I think your only option is to install the “classic” full-size 2-pole breaker, such as this.
That will displace 2 double-stuffs; they will simply have to go somewhere else.  If you’re crunched for space, it’s subpanel time.  You should never tolerate being out of breaker panel spaces; because it causes a huge amount of problems in shortcuts, hacks and bad work.  You should have maybe half your spaces unused.


what is max distance between posts using 2x12x20 foot beams for a pergola

You can easily span 12' with a 2x12 for a pergola as long as your load is not crazy. What is going on top of the 2x12's? 2x2's? I would set my posts on 12' centers and cantilever 4' on each side. I would also sandwich a 2x12 on each side of the post. There actually is enough information in your question but  there are many online beam span charts. Here is one. Hope it helps. Make sure there is no earth to wood contact on your posts and you will enjoy your pergola for decades.
http://www.decks.com/deckbuilding/beam_span_chart_table


Securing French cleats to drywall over lath and plaster with structural screws

My guess is that the screws you want to use won't work well if the shelves are heavy.  The embedment in the stud is too shallow and the screw will flex quite a bit.  I think the shaft of the screw is too small for the drywall and plaster to provide much support in shear.

I'd simply strip off the drywall and screw 3/4" plywood on top of the plaster.  I'd nail on a pressure treated 2x4 like a base molding so the plywood isn't in contact with the floor, and rest the 4' edge of the plywood on the 2x4 before attaching.  This way the weight is carried by the plywood rather than the nails.

With that in place mounting your cleats will be very easy.  The plywood will also hold up better than drywall behind the shelves.  It's a bit of extra expense and effort but you'll have a very strong and durable and nice looking finished product.


What should I know before hiring an electrician for a 3-phase commercial service pull?

This answer will confine itself only to the size of the conduit you should lay, and as you'll soon see, even such a simple question has layers of complexity.

This work will surely need to be fully permitted and that means it will need to be done to the spec of your AHJ (generic term for your electrical inspector: Authority Having Jurisdiction.) That will be the reason for the engineering review.

Metering and fusing at the supply

The other company certainly isn't going to give you 30kw of power for free. There will need to be a metering arrangement at that site, whether that's submetered and rebilled by the other company, or the utility puts a meter there.

There must also be overcurrent protection for the long run from this supply transformer to your site.  This may not be a simple household style "breaker box" as you say.

This stuff all needs to be figured out before you can really advance further.  What you can do is get the conduit laid in the ground.  Conduit is mandatory, which means cable is impractical.  Into the conduit will go several single-conductor wires, of a rating fit for outdoor/wet location use, such as THWN-2.

Conduit type

There are a variety of conduit types, such as PVC plastic, EMT metal, IMC metal, or the heaviest Rigid metal.  Rigid is pipefitted, with screw-in fittings.  All conduit is presumed to be full of water at all times.  The defense against water is in careful selection of wire.

You may have a maximum of four 90 degree bends (or rather, 360 degrees total) of bends.  However even this will be quite tough to pull, and will require a professional with his truck full of special pulling gear. It's best to keep bends to an absolute minimum for ease of pulling, but typically you need two 90s just to enter and exit the ground.

Trenching depth is a big deal in some cases. Rigid conduit (the most expensive) needs only 6" of cover atop it; 12" if it's under a driveway or parking lot.  Other conduit needs 18-24" of cover.

Figuring out conduit size is pretty simple, the conduit size is decided based on the number of wires and the size of those wires. Look it up in this table or this calculator and you're done.  Easy peasy

Wait.  How many wires?

First,  metallic conduit can often be a grounding path, in which case a ground wire is not required.  I am skeptical of metal conduit outdoors being an effective grounding path if it isn't Rigid conduit.  You really want a ground wire, so don't mess around here.  If you need a ground wire, it's allowed to be smaller than the conductors.

Ground aside, the number of conductors depends on the configuration: 3-phase "delta" or "wye". Delta has 3 conductors and no neutral.  Wye has 4 conductors and a neutral.  Most motors do not use the neutral. In most cases the neutral can be downsized when the loads are expected to be balanced (which motors will be).

A wye supply can drive delta tools.  In some cases, if the supply is wye, and you only need delta, you can simply take the 3 wires of delta.

This brings us to 3, 4 or 5 wires.

How large should the wires be?

You want to size your conduit for the worst-case wire size that you might ever need.  Conduit is more expensive than wire when you account for installing the conduit, repaving and the like.

You have provided a power requirement (120hp machine under test + 40hp compressor that someone will someday forget to turn off while testing).  That's 160hp or roughly 120kw.

You don't have a choice whether you'll be getting 208V, 240V or 480V, unless you intend to provision your own transformers.

Running the numbers for 480V... 120,000 watts divided by 480 divided by sqrt(3) = 144 amps.  That's enough infomation to head over to the Voltage Drop Calculator, using 5% as the tolerable voltage drop.  We get less than 2% drop with 1/0 Copper wire, which is a better answer than I was expecting.  480V really is magical stuff.

At 240V it's a bit more frightful: 289 amps.  Calc says 350kcmil copper wire - yikes.  "Kcmil" aka "MCM" is for large size wires too large for the AWG sizing system.  At these large sizes, you should really have a talk with the AHJ about using aluminum. Copper is not for this.

At 208V, we're talking 333 amps. Calc says 500kcmil.

Trying to run a 120hp machine on anything less than 480V 3-phase seems like madness.

Back to conduit size

In the 480V case (#1/0 wire), you could skin by with 1-1/2" conduit, but I would upsize to 2" instead, for ease of pull and future expansion.

240V (350kcmil) could get away with 2-1/2" conduit but I would go 3".  208V (500kcmil) will require 3" conduit.

There's no penalty for installing too-large conduit, except the cost of the conduit itself, which is negligible in the scope of total project cost.

Fitting conduit is a huge amount of the total work, which is why it's a good thing to DIY.  That done, pulling the particular wires required is straightforward work for your electrician when she has determined the right wire size.

There's also no penalty for installing too-large wire (except for the cost of the wire) however expect that cost to be considerable.

Adapting your machines

480V machines can often be re-jumpered 240V, or vice versa.  There will be a label on the motor indicating how to change jumpers.  It's not hard to design a motor to be 240/480, just not every motor is.

Some 240V machines can be run on 208V, or vice versa, but it's not as common.  Thermal machines like ovens will produce less power (208/240)^2 - and motors would need to specifically be designed to be dual voltage 208/240.  You have to consult the documentation.

If you need a voltage you do not have, you will need to provision either a 3-phase transformer, or three single-phase transformers connected correctly.  You could have them right in your shop.


Fluorescent lamp does not rotate in socket

That type of lamp holder comes in two variants - push or twist. The technique for one cannot be used on the other.
The push type have sprung and caps, you push sideways on the tube which enables one end to just lift out. No twisting.
Yours are the twist type; 90° rotation, so if you can't twist, then trying to force the end caps away will just break them. Once you've achieved the correct alignment, they should almost fall out under their own weight.
There are usually two main types of twist. I don't know their true names, so let's call them 'open' & 'insert'. The 'open' type use just the grip of the outer edge on the pins to maintain tension as you twist. The 'insert' type have an inner sleeve which must be rotated with the tube pins to release. This insert, over time tends to get a bit 'burned' - not dangerously, but enough to make them quite abrasive & grip the outer white end caps. It can feel like you're trying to slide two pieces of sandpaper over each other, very creaky & 'grippy'.
With the power off, you could try getting a bit of WD40 into the gap between the white outer & the black insert.  Let capillary action pull it around the back. (WD 40 is not conductive, but wipe it away as best you can afterwards.) After half an hour or so, see if you can then twist it out - note it should be possible twist either way, so give both ways a go. Very few are one-way only, so if one way seems to go better than the other, then favour it. Only once it's properly loosened will you be able to tell if it really was only designed to twist one way.
If you absolutely cannot turn it, you can break the tubes out - wrap full length in cling-film (saran-wrap) as best you can & tap the centre, hard. Then you can just pull the broken centre towards you & free both ends. Be careful, of course. That might give you a better chance at freeing up the mechanism with the tubes out of the way.
Contrasting the apparent simplicity of their design, these can be remarkably obstinate fittings to have to deal with, with little tolerance for brute force methods. Cajoling is better in the long run, but you might not be first to approach this task. If in the past, 6 different people have had 6 conflicting methods of extracting & replacing tubes, the mechanism can be really easy to completely hash up & effectively 'lock you out'. Once the tube is out you will have a better chance of seeing what state the mechanism is in.
If you absolutely have to replace the fittings, get sprung caps instead. They're far less trouble overall. Better still, swap for LED fittings. (For sake of completeness - you can get direct replacement LED tubes, but you must disconnect the ballast or take the starter out before using them.)


What are some permanent shower shelf options?

Buy/find/scrape up a small piece of corian. I'll bet you might find something online, or even better, go to a countertop maker in your area. They will surely have some scraps that you can take off their hands for a small fee. A square foot piece is scrap to them, so they might as well make a few dollars extra from it.

Cut into a triangular shape, to fit into a corner of the shower. You might also choose a quarter quadrant of a circle as the shape. The nice thing about corian is it works well with saws, routers, hand saws, files, etc. And you can sand the edges smooth, even to a glossy finish. Make a pair of blocks from the same corian, 1 inch high, and as long as the edges of your triangular shape. These will be supports for the shelf.

Now, glue the supports to the wall of the stall, using a high quality silicon as an adhesive. Angle the shelf just slightly down, so that any water on it will drain properly, but not enough so that something placed on it will freely slide off. Glue down the shelf with the same silicon to the supports and to the wall.


How to cut a door wrapped in sheet metal

I think the Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel will be about as good as it gets for this application.

Scoring the line (not too deeply) with a cold chisel should help make a channel for the wheel to follow.

I'd tape up the rest of the surface before you start, so you don't have sparks and dirt marring the finish.


Low hot water pressure at kitchen faucet

You may have sediment debris in the aerator or the valve assembly. Every few month we have to pull our aerators out and clean them. We have pretty hard water here. When you replace or turn off/on your shut off valves, you introduce debris into the system. Debris like built-up sediment, calcium, etc. This dislodges and makes its way to the tap, plugging small areas along the way.


Online tool to draw saw lines for plywood?

Search term: Panel Cut Calcuator

A few results - most seem to be software to download and run, rather than a website. The first one does claim to work on the website, but I have not tested any of them personally. I think all the ones I'm linking claim to have a free, community, or functional demo version:

http://www.optimalon.com/online_cut_optimizer.htm

http://www.optimizecutter.com

http://www.maxcutsoftware.com

http://www.applicationprogram.net

http://cutlistplus.com

Enjoy.


What considerations do I need when wiring a string of light bulbs in parallel?

to get the needed amp rating for the wiring and fuse you take the wattage of the bulbs divide by the voltage and multiply by number of bulbs.

so 15 75W bulbs means 75W/230V*15 ~ 5 amps. this is much less than would need a dedicated circuit. (it's the same as a 1125W appliance).


Cause of my roof leaking? (Victorian house with photos)

If you want to identify where the leak is coming from, get a buddy and have him spray your roof with water using a hose while your in the loft looking for water.  Have him start from the low point of the roof and slowly work his way up.  Sine you don't sound like a roofer I'd say this is your easiest way to find the leak.
Don't forget to give me a thumbs up so I get credit for helping you.
Good luck


Installing washer/dryer combo in kitchen

No Way on the tailpiece. It's got to be a full glued on PVC Wye (that accepts 2") above the sink trap or with it's own trap under there. Definitely go with 2" (not 1-1/2" pipe), but the 6"-ish pitch is fine.

Fill your sink up half way & drain it. If it squeals & has a very tight vortex smaller than your finger & the vortex starts & stops, then you need more vent air for an already starved drain.

You're either too far from the vent pipe or that pipe is too small & you'll need to put in an under-sink vent to avoid needing a utility sink that could hold the entire washer's dump that could then drain at a slower rate.


How to remove protective film from shower after being left in the sun

No doubt the adhesive (and maybe the sheeting itself) has permanently hardened at room temperature. You'll need to either warm it or use a solvent to soften the adhesive.

First, I'd try a heat lamp. An infrared flood light would do, or a halogen utility light in a pinch. Set it up so that it's no closer than maybe 24" from the tub at any point--you don't want to scorch the surface. Monitor it closely and often. Work one area at a time.

If that doesn't work, move to mild solvents like GooGone, depending on what the manufacturer says about cleaning solutions.


Pfister bathroom faucet -- where to remove top part of hose from faucet?

It looks like the flexihose is crimped on the to faucet lines but it's very hard to see on the first image, there seems to be a brass coloured hexagonal piece at the end of the pipe but based on the image I'm unable to tell if it's a crimp or screw fitting.

What would be best at this point is to remove the faucet by disconnecting the hot and cold water flexihoses from your valves and unscrewing the faucet's mounting bolt.
Once you've got the faucet out you can take a closer look at the flexihose connection.

The you'll most likely have one of two situations:

Either the flexihose is crimped on and it will probably be best to replace the whole faucet.
Or if you're lucky it will be a screw-in flexihose which can be removed, remove the flexihose and take it to your local hardware store to get a replacement hose. After that it's just a matter of screwing the new flexihose on and mounting the faucet back to the sink.

If you've removed the tap check to make sure the gasket between the tap and the sink is still ok or if it also needs replacing. (Sometimes a good cleaning is enough though!) This will help prevent water leaking down from the top.


Central Heat Won't Turn On When I Raise the Temperature on Nest Thermostat

Is this a heat pump?  It sounds like a heat pump.

To quote Boromir, "one does not simply cycle a heat pump on and off."  Heat pumps are similar to air conditioning units (but with the ability to pump the other way).  When they shut off, they need some time to stabilize before they start up again, otherwise you have what's called a "short cycle" which can damage it.
Most units have an internal protective circuit to make sure it doesn't restart too soon after a shutoff.

If you command increased heat shortly after it has shut off, the thermostat might call for heat, but the internal protective circuit will prevent it from starting right away.  This may cause the thermostat to call for 2nd stage heat.


You've got a flat roof that isn't "true" (straight - you don't want it level).  Your pitch isn't the problem so much as the dips allowing water to pool.

Ideally the best fix here is:

Remove the existing surface material (tar and rubber)
Remove the existing sheeting
Shore up the roof structure with extra beams, and shim it as
needed to make it true and consistent from high point to low point.
Install a double layer of sheeting with perfectly flat plywood
Resurface the roof with ice shield, tar and rubber


Can I use landscaping lava rock as a concrete slab base?

By itself I would not rely on it, as this is lava rock which isn't the strongest - it's prone to breakage..  However, if you cover it with stone dust to help fill in the voids which will help prevent shifting (which encourages breaking) and then solidly compact it with a power compactor, then follow up by covering it with a layer of sand on top, compacted again, then I think you'll have a good solid base for your slab.

What really matters, though, is how deep it goes.  You need the base to go down below the normal frost line for your area.  If you don't dig down deeply enough, then come winter, the freezing ground under the slab will heave and destroy your concrete, which will be a huge waste of money.

So if you need to dig down more, which you'll find out quickly (if you're in N CA go 16-24", if you're in the southern part, 1' will be fine) then dig down, and fill with this first, then gravel, then stone dust and finally sand - compacting each layer as you go.


Please help - wonky post location on pergola - concerned with shearing and stability

What you're trying to do appears possible, with a few extra parts. See here (forgive the crappy art, I made several edits):

The two red rectangles are the beam-post braces I would add (minimally) to handle the horizontal loads which can no longer be handled by your odd post.
The post I drew where there isn't one is just a short floating section used to fix the two beams together.
What you need to build so your post does not need to be buried in concrete is a cantilever. Extend the 45 degree horizontal beam some distance inside the pergola. The longer you make it, the less load you will have where you join it thanks to leverage. I would aim for as much inside as there is outside. Fix the end to another 45 degree beam (shown in red). This needs to be rather strong as it will be handling roughly the weight of that corner of the pergola. Except that end will be trying to move down, not up. Think of that joint as hanging a large weight on the red beam.
I've shown the red beam as resting on the 2x6 beam, but attached to the side of the 2x8 beam. It should be easy to find some kind of metal L you an screw to the 2x8 and rest the beam onto.
The connection between the two 45 degree beams could be a large bolt down the center, with appropriately large washer. They will be about 6 inches apart vertically as the red one is over the 2x6 and black one under, so that would likely be easiest. But it's also possible to insert a short section of wood and use steel plates to fix both ends to the beams properly.
I also suggest resting the 45 degree beam on top of the post, with some minimal fixing to keep it from moving around. I would drill a hole from the top and drop a rod which will not rust in it. Same deal where the 45 degree beam meets the tiny floating post. A lag bolt from below would do fine. Or any kind of screw you can get that's long enough, it won't be pulling anything but its own weight.
With that setup, your odd post does not even need a brace to the horizontal beam to hold everything up. But it will help overall stiffness to have one.
If you go the "10 foot post into concrete" way, I suspect you will find your post slowly tilting towards the pergola over the years. But that's just an educated guess.


Block view, but allow sunlight from windows

Static-cling (clean window, apply with water and a supplied squeegee, no actual adhesive, peels off when you leave without a fight) "stained glass" plastic films are available. They look pretty much as good or bad as you make them look, which is mostly a matter of how carefully you cut the edges. I did a bathroom over with them this spring, and it's a huge improvement over the blinds it used to have. The particular version/brand I used was "ArtScape" and it was found most affordably via Amazon, though HD does carry some of the patterns, but at a higher price.


Finishing hardwood floors with shellac - bad idea?

I can think of two good reasons not to use shellac.

It is not as durable as polyurethane.
Lap marks show (sometimes a lot). It not easy to get a smooth finish, especially because it dries quickly.

Because you do not want to deal with the fumes of oil based polyurethane, I'd recommend using water based polyurethane. (It is only the oil based that has the real nasty fumes.)

You get much better durability, (not as good as the oil based) it is pretty easy to apply, and it dries quickly (not as fast as shellac).

It is kind of the best of both worlds. It has some of the strength of oil, and the low fumes like shellac.


Installing pull-up bars. Will this design hold?

4-each on each end of 1-1/2"x #12 screw is plenty to hold the body weight of a hefty adult male. No need for second layer of lumber.  No need to extend through the 2x6 into the stud. Your 2x6 needs to be secured to every stud, 16" on center, with at least 3" construction screws; not sheet rock screws.

The screws you show from Lowe's would be a good choice for the flanges.  They don't need to be that long.  Predrill your holes to the size of the screw shaft, not the thread diameter.  With predrilling the screws will hold with more strength.


Does the arrangement of breakers within a panel matter or follow any rules?

While we're discussing bad technique, let me hit the awful practice of "Mister Snippy", snipping the wires short so they can only reach the breaker they're on right now (or the neutral bar).  Mr. Snippy thinks he's impressing the inspector with wild overinterpretation of NEC 110.12.  Actually they're dooming the panel to a bad hair day of wire nut extensions, when changes inevitably need to be made later.

Locate largest rated breakers closest to the main, and 15A circuits farthest away.

This is a very bad idea for two reasons. First, as Jeff Wheeler discusses, you're dancing with the devil on Stab Limits. I recently saw a panel with a 40/40 quadplex across from a 30... and the OP wanted to change the 30 to a 30/50.  If you don't see a problem there, read Jeff Wheeler's answer.
So the idea of crowding the biggest up top, abeam of each other, is a terrible idea.
Second, about three 2-pole double-spaces should be "reserved" if you will, for things that actually have a need to be there -- generator interlocks (particularly "across" interlocks such as Siemens ECSBPK01), surge suppressors, solar, that kind of thing.   I'm not saying "don't use them", but anything you put there should be easily moved.  A second warning to Mr. Snippy.

Balance (within some threshold) the total breaker ratings on one phase with the other one.

The trip value?  Pointless.  No gain to it. Prioritize other things.

Balance the expected real-life load on each phase. (Is there even a way to calculate that?)

That makes a lot more sense.  You just have to think about how houses are being used.  You don't run the dishwasher while you're preparing a meal for instance.

In specific locations (e.g. the two separate kitchen countertop receptacle circuits) put these two circuits on different phases -- if the circuits are not wired as an MWBC.

Yup, or "saw and dust collector".

Group standard, AFCI, and DFCI breakers together.

Unconstructive and useless.  I see it sometimes, but that's just pandering to 110.12, trying to make a panel that looks neat for no good reason.

Group breakers by the rooms they serve, or by circuit type, or by 120/240V, or...

I think the best question to be asking is, "how do I best facilitate people finding a breaker they're in a hurry to turn off?"  That being the reason they have switch throws instead of just reset buttons.


What are the requirements on buried propane lines?

I cannot fully answer your question, but it seems that New Hampshire simply uses the ICC guidelines for building codes, including for "Plumbing, Mechanical and Fuel Gas" which seems to be the key area here.

Not being an ICC member, I can't access the documents, and neither the New Hampshire Statutes website nor the State Building Codes website reprints these documents for public viewing. This may be to encourage the use of licensed individuals for work subject to code, but IMO as "ignorance of the law is no excuse" in most jurisdictions you should be able to educate yourself on the building code free of charge, the same as for any other section of law. I would call your county clerk and ask how to get ahold of a copy of the codes. It may cost you a little money for their time and paper, but if they can help you here it probably won't be as expensive as an ICC membership for yourself.

If the government won't help (excuse my cynicism but I'd put money on various offices passing the buck), if you need chapter and verse, just get it from both the propane guy and the gas company. They're telling you two very different things, and they can't both be right. Ask both companies for a hard copy of the section of the building codebook, with title and year of that document, detailing the relevant codes which back up their understanding of how it should be done. Both are working for you, and one has shafted you; my money for which one is with the one who can't quote the most recent official codebook recognized by the State of New Hampshire.


Does the wall termination vent for a kitchen range hood need fastened to the duct tightly?

Ducts do not need to be securely fastened to their wall vent counterparts, nor taped.  Simply pushing the duct over the male fitting of the wall vent will suffice.


Can I add a second junction box to house a doorbell transformer?

It sounds like you have the transformer wired on the switch loop so the switch position makes a difference. If you move the door bell to the light feeder it will work as it should. Can you add another box and provide a dedicated circuit? Yes, but this would be quite expensive and really not needed for such a small load.


What should I do to prevent mold from flooding?

What you describe requires major plumbing work and can cause devastating damage to your home.  Your landlord should be responsible for fixing this because with moisture leaking behind the walls like this then it can quickly create major property damage to his rental unit and unhealthy mold.

Your landlords refusal to fix this on his own is creating a health hazard for you, and in many countries and states there are laws that protect tenants and give them certain rights in a landlord-tenant relationship.  One of these rights is the right to a safe and hazard free home, which means you can and should be able to bring suit against the landlord in the event where he refuses to fix a situation with the property that is creating a signficant health hazard for you and your family.

To get rid of the mildew, talk to your landlord and tell him to fix the leak immediately.


How do I replace the exterior wall without damaging the siding?

I really think you have a situation that is going to be a bit more than a novice carpenter should tackle. The normal procedure to replace wall framing involves placing a pretty hefty beam under the ceiling joists and jacking the entire section of joists at once so the weight is off the stud walls. The studs and plates can then be removed. Other considerations will be electrical, windows etc. It is going to be impossible to properly replace the entire wall frame without also removing the exterior sheathing and siding.

What you are faced with is a MAJOR repair. You will need all the right tools, calculate the proper wall height, plumb the walls, interlock the corner plates together, support the roof load, and try to do this fairly quickly as the house is going to be wide open for a while during this process.

This is a good example of when you should hire a pro and see if he/she will allow you to assist. You will learn a lot and have the security of knowing the roof isn't going to fall down on you during the process. Consider the costs as tuition in you carpentry education.


Difference between lacquered and polished chisels

Irrelevant in use, IMHO - Lacquer is essentially providing some rust protection in the warehouse before you buy the chisel. It will be removed from the working surfaces of the chisel, preferably by you doing a proper sharpening before use and as it is used, and if not, by wear in use.

Polished would simply be polished, and have no lacquer to be removed. Again, the working surfaces will be sharpened (hopefully) and the polish won't matter.


Can't hook up new faucet to shut off valve

That's a flare fitting on your existing valve. You may be able to find an appropriate adapter, but I couldn't dig anything up very easily.

The valve looks to be attached to your supply line with a threaded connection, so it should be fairly simple to replace the whole valve using a new valve with a threaded connection. Shut off house water, unscrew this one, clean the threads and apply new thread sealing tape, screw on the new one.


How to remove the handles from this faucet

I have THE EXACT faucet. There is NO screw. JUST PULL UP!  May have to do a slight pry on the base but that is what it is, no screws.


How to install a utilitech heater ventilation fan with light?

Your switches are single pole double throw with center off. You have a hot black pigtailed to the two switched with the red wire nut in the front of your switch box. The light switch has a yellow wire and a brown wire out of it, spliced together and connected to a black wire in one of the NM cables. The switch was probably meant for a light/nightlight combination unit and the old unit only had a light, as your new one does. The switch will operate the light in both positions with center off
Where your black hot enters the switch box, you'll have a white neutral that should be connected to a white wire from one of the cables going to the ceiling. That should put a black switched hot and a neutral up at the ceiling, possibly the one marked "l."
The other switch has a blue wire and a red wire that would be switched hots to turn on the vent or the heat depending on the position on the switch. The blue wire is connected to a black wire going up to the ceiling and the red wire appears to be connected to the other white wire going up to the ceiling, possibly the other cable.
Which ever white wire at the ceiling is the neutral, you'll connect it to the three white wires out of your new unit with a wire nut. The other white wire that appears to be a switched hot will go to the red wire out of your unit. That white wire should have some black tape wrapped around it to show it's hot. One of the black wire out of the ceiling, possibly the one marked "l." will go to the blue wire out of your unit for the light. The other black will go to the black wire from your unit for the vent.
You will need to verify which wire is which, we can't do that from here. You also need to verify the breaker will handle the load of the heater. The copper wires, ground wires, need to be connected together in the box and to the box. They also need to be connected at the ceiling and to the green wire out of your unit. The two cables going into your unit need the proper connector to secure them to the unit. The two cables are not code compliant and one of the NM cables would need to be replaced with a three wire plus ground to meet code.


Is it a bad idea to install a book shelf system on drywall?

When attaching anything other than lightweight items to the wall, you want to ensure that you have attached it to the underlying wall studs.
In the case of shelves, except for perhaps very light ornamental shelves, you want to attach the tracks (i.e. the vertical black pieces in your photo) to the studs with screws that are long enough to penetrate the wood enough and strong enough to hold the intended weight.
From looking at the photo it does appear that the 3 tracks are spaced at about the typical width for wall stud spacing.
The best way to find studs is with a commercially made stud finder tool.  These are relatively inexpensive today.  You will also want to ensure that you don't hit and hidden plumbing or electrical wires in the wall, so take a survey of the things on the other side, above and below the wall to try to avoid any damage.


Turn Lights On/Off Without Having to Hit 3 Switches in One Room

In my experience, Lutron Pico/Maestro line of remote switches work very well and aesthetically very pleasing.  I would not use nor recommend any other.

In my area Home Depot sells them in white.  For more colors choices you'd need to go through an authorized dealer i.e. a lighting design center or search the internet for availability.


The problem is probably caused by the change in humidity.  Now that the crawl space is dry everything is drying out, once things are good and dry for several months then would be the time to repair the drywall cracks.the laminate flooring may be more of a problem now that it is drying out and shrinking hopefully it won't get worse and I would expect it to settle down within a month or two.


Should the fill line be removed when decommissioning an old oil tank?

Whether or not they remove the fill line, depends on how the tank is decommissioned.  There are three ways an abandoned tank can be handled, as explained in this PDF

The 1997 Uniform Fire Code, adapted by WAC 51- 44, requires that
heating oil tanks out of service  for a period of one year shall be
decommissioned  by using one of the following processes.

Removal from the ground and restoration of  the site in an approved manner.
Abandonment in place by filling the tank completely with an approved, inert solid material.
Tanks of 1,100 gallons or less may be left empty provided they are first pumped and cleaned,  and have the fill line capped or plugged,
below  grade, to prevent refilling of the tank.  (NOTE: Some local
juisdictions do not permit  this “clean and cap” method. Check local
requirements before beginning any decommissioning process.)

In the first method, the tank is completely removed, so the fill line will also be removed. With the second method, the fill line may be left behind.  In the third case, the fill line should be cut below grade before it's capped. So the fill line will still be there, but it will be at or below the level of the ground.
The document also has a good list of questions to ask the contractor.

Some important questions to ask contractors:
• Are they experienced?
Can they provide the  names and telephone numbers of current or
recent customers as references?
• Do they have environmental
pollution liability  coverage?
• Do they collect soil samples?
• Which laboratory do they use for the analyses?
• Where will the tank, oil, and contaminated
water from rinsing out the tank be disposed? Is
that disposal site insured?
• What documentation, labeling, and other
paperwork are provided? You should receive
documentation of disposal of the tank, a copy
of the lab results, documentation that the soil
samples were handled properly, a copy of any
permits required, and documentation of the
disposal and/or treatment of any wastes.


Sound isolation is sound isolation. Lower frequencies (bass) are harder than higher frequencies (treble) to block, but anything helps. If you have the space, a purpose built wall with staggered studs (so each stud only has one wall surface connected to it) packed with insulation is good. You can add as much of whatever other product you care to onto that (resilent channel as well as the other products you have mentioned already) but if you start there, you are fighting less as you have a good isolated base construction - many of the "products" are more of a band-aid on top of a wall structure that was not built from the ground up for isolation.
"Open concept to basement" sounds like a firetrap waiting to happen - I'd want to get your utilities behind a couple of layers of Type X drywall and rockwool and a well sealed firedoor just for the fire rating, and consider the sound reduction as a pleasant side effect. Let the children you want to have live to adulthood.


Hardwood flooring installation, first row question

Obviously starting and ending with a full plank is ideal, however, it almost never works out that way.  You'll want to avoid installing skinny little pieces of a plank (less than half a plank), so you'll have to make some calculations up front.

Measure the distance from wall A to wall D, then based on the width of your planks determine how many rows you'll need. You'll not want to end at wall D with a little sliver of a plank, so you may find that you have to start at wall A with a half plank to avoid that.

You'll also want to measure from the projection in wall A, to wall A and wall D. Then determine if you started with a full plank in the projection, that you won't have a sliver along wall A or D.

Once you have that all figured out, then you can determine the right place to start. And whether you should start with a full plank or not.

Don't forget to include expansion gaps in all your calculations.


Is a weather resistant gfci required outside in a metal box with in use cover?

A WR GFI uses stainless components and screws. GFI's are notorious for rusting, especially at the mounting screws. The one that went bad was probably older, before WR's were even available.

Yes, you need a WR GFI, and an in-use cover. In fact, I'd venture to bet that much of your installation is not up to code. IF it is that close to the pool the receptacle and plug must be of the locking type (twist-lock), and the circuit protected by an upstream GFI. The outside portion of the wiring to a pool motor must also be in conduit with individual insulated conductors. Older codes would allow this installation located between 5-10 feet from the pool, but NO closer than 5'. Also, the cord on the motor should be no longer than 3' and must be #12 or larger.

There are MANY codes involved with pool installations, I hope yours meets them.


Why is dishwasher water backing up in my sink?

In addition, if you do have a waste disposal unit the dishwasher drains into it in the disposal chamber so if it has any waste in it, it will prevent the disposal from draining the  dishwasher properly.


How do a replace an old baseboard thermostat with a wifi thermostat?

Get a different 'stat

The thermostat you have is designed for low voltage (24VAC) systems such as gas furnaces and heat pumps.  You'll need a line voltage thermostat instead (and yes, wifi line voltage 'stats are a thing.)


Why would a switch be wired with its neutral connected to ground?

The picture that you show indicates some very serious and dangerous wiring connections. This was clearly done by someone that had NO clue to proper wiring craft and codes.

Since you have found similar issues in two spots it leaves to question about how much the rest of the abode is wired in similar careless and dangerous way. I would recommend that you bring in someone who knows all things related to mains wiring and codes and perform a 100% survey of all your electrical wiring including all boxes, panels, lights, switches and outlets. Without doing a rigorous job of this you will have no idea how much risk you are dealing with before someone or something gets electrocuted or seriously damaged.


Bathroom fan duct connection for maintainability

I'd think about stopping the rigid duct about two feet from the fan and connecting a piece of aluminum flex duct to the end of the rigid and on to the fan. You'd have some flexibility in removing the fan in the future.  If you're hell bent on rigid all the way, replace the old fan now with a new one, vent it up solid with your rigid and buy an exact additional fan for the future replacement of parts without having to replace the housing and messing with the rigid connection..


How should I go about refitting the seal under this interior door?

As you can surmise it is difficult to see under the door to evaluate what is going on with this plastic strip. Even if you had a good understanding of how the seal was originally secured in place it would be extremely difficult to get tools and possible supplies up under the door to work the seal back into place.

So it really comes down to taking the door off its hinges and setting it down on it's side so that you can inspect and take action to fix the problem. Once things are more fully understood you are in a lot better position to take the next steps actions.

Depending upon the situation be prepared that it may be necessary to re-hang and remove the door at least one additional time if it is necessary to procure supplies or delay the actual repair work.


Circuit breaker trips every couple of weeks

The only interesting information here is how many amps were being pulled on the circuit at the time the breaker popped. Breakers actually trip on heat, and a sign of a malfunctioning breaker is random inexplicable opening (tripping).

You could get yourself an Amprobe and watch it while a 'helper' turns things on and off and simulates normal activity in the room to see, however more than likely one of two things is going on:

You have a bad breaker, just get it replaced
Something (sump pump, maybe?) is also on that circuit, coming on weekly and tripping it

So, if you go the Amprobe route, you have to be there just at the right time to catch it. The event causing the breaker to trip might be happening fast enough for the tester you have not to notice it.

Replace the breaker (or have it replaced) first and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't - figure out what's coming on at that interval that might be causing it. If the problem persists and nothing is suspect, have an Electrician take a good look at it, you probably have feeder somewhere that comes into contact with ground randomly.


Can I buy a remote for a ceiling fan that will not turn off. Remote missing when purchased home

you could always add a remote module

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B001I1M95E

i would take a look why the switch doesn't work properly

example see if it's connected to the switch or bypassed


Why does Tesla recommend such a small gauge wire for their chargers compared to this chart I found online?

That chart is from BlueSea - they make marine DC power system components (mostly 12V and 24V). Voltage drop effects are completely different at 12V vs. the 240V used by this EV charger. Disregard that chart.
Plugging the actual scenario (240V, 6AWG, 40A load, 150 feet) into a voltage drop calculation indicates that the worst possible voltage drop will be only 1.98%.


How much weight can screws in drywall hold?

It's always better to attach it to studs - which should certainly be possible with something that big.  That said though, you might be surprised how much a drywall anchor can hold.

How well they work depends on the load though.  They will work best with a static downward load - a fixed weight close to the wall pulling directly downward.

They will work much worse with loads that pull down and outward (like a shelf) or dynamic loads where the weight changes regularly causing the fastener to loosen up.  Something like a toilet paper holder represents the worst of both worlds - it sticks out from the wall with the weight at the end, and you produce a dynamic load on it whenever you pull on the TP roll.


What are the pros and cons of removing exterior dentil molding?

You're right that they're merely decorative. They're often a separate molding that lays over another board or molding. They can be removed or covered without issue.
I do think it's a loss of nice detail, though. It's that sort of thing that gives a house the richness of aesthetic yours has. Shame it has to go for the sake of convenience.


What type of wire should I use from the meter to a 100 amp main breaker panel?

Depends how you feel about copper. Aluminum is the better choice for feeder, lighter and more flexible too, but you need larger wire section if space is a huge issue.  Once aluminum wouldn't fit in the pipe and I had to use 1000 kcmil copper... you don't even wanna price that, let alone pay for it...

Anyway you use 1 AWG hot-neutral if aluminum, and 3 AWG hot-neutral if copper.  Or larger  but that's the minimum.  For the ground, #8 copper or #6 aluminum.

Since I gather that 60A panel was super small, you can see where spaces are the most important trait of a panel. Spaces are dirt cheap when you're buyting the panel, but getting too-small a panel is an expensive and easily avoided blunder.  Once you grok that, your thrifty side will root for the biggest panel in the store.  Now, to clear up a common misconception:

Panel ratings are like tire ratings: They're absolute maximums.  If you drive 85 mph everyday, you'd want a 112 mph tire - an 85 mph tire leaves zero margin of safety.  Lots of people buy 100A panels because they think they must match the feed breaker - but they're just running the panel at redline.  A 200A panel gives a margin of safety.

Main breaker rating in a subpanel Does Not Matter and does not need to agree with the feed breaker. It works fine either way.  In fact, subpanels never need main breakers.  (however subpanels in outbuildings need a disconnect switch, and a breaker covers that).


I typically use confill ( concrete fill which is a setting compound with fiberglass fibers in it ) to repair plaster as my large gap and then put a sandable top coat like a 30 minute setting compound.
How hard is it to skim coat a wall?  You could learn.  YouTube is amazing.  Start with a small wall.  You'll have to worry about putting extensions on electrical outlets, dealing with trim elements ( do you accept them more recessed with your skim coat build out above ).  Tile Coach has some good videos on tile floating to get walls perfect before tile install.
You should be able to go overtop of paint with a setting compound some people add a wood/glue mixture instead of water when mixing to get better adhesion.
It depends a lot on how wavy the walls are, how close to perfect you want them and how much time you have to spend learning and fixing.


I don’t know if you ever got a proper answer.
Yes putting 2 20 amp breakers on a 30 amp service is fine. You will trip the 30 amp main if you draw more than 30 for any length of time.
We over subscribe breaker panels all the time you should plan on your peak load being 80% by code but you can have more total breakers than the service rating.


Unless you truly fix the water intrusion, sealing the floor will not work. I would do a moisture transmission test in your 'wet season', after the repairs are done:
secure a foot square of plastic to the floor in several locations.  You should review the information here: Basement floor with lots of moisture.

A moisture meter (this one has a masonry setting) for before, during and after readings, will give you a lot of information.

Porcelain tile will, in effect, seal the floor, since porcelain tile is impervious to water (<= 0.5% water absorption).  Be sure to use portland cement based thinset (the dry kind, NOT a premixed mastic "thinset").


What can I do about a shower valve stem that is too far recessed after tiling?

There are Moen knob/stem extensions available. Go to a reputable plumbing shop with your knob and some pictures.


What is the best way to clean toilet bowl stains?

Surprisingly (to me, anyway) a pumice stone works great for this.  A friend recommended it to me when I had a similar situation to yours.  I had a hard time believing the stone wouldn't scratch the porcelain bowl, but it didn't and removed the rings pretty quickly.


How to fix a huge gap between tub faucet and tile

The ideal method to repair the gap (if the spout can not be tightened further, is to shorten the length of the pipe nipple that exits the wall and connects to the spout. You need to un-screw the spout and the pipe nipple. Replace with a shorter nipple equal to the gap measurement. Use Teflon tape on all male pipe threads and caulking behind the spout base. The faster, "just as appropriate, but may not look that good", repair is to apply enough caulking into the gap so that it can be smoothed flush with the spout. A third and middle of the road repair is to locate an eschuteon plate. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKVJEUI?keywords=eschuteon&qid=1445614060&ref_=sr_1_3&s=home-garden&sr=8-3


how to install the mounting bracket for ceiling fan

The mounting screws and instructions you're looking for are staring you in the face

The fan bracket screws that go with the Arlington FB442 one-sided saddle box are pre-provisioned in the box, next to where the cable in your photo exits.  (You've started to back one out already, even.)  Once you have them out, you should be able to use them to screw the metal bracket that came with your fan into the two "pockets" just outside the sidewalls of the box that are pointed out by the arrows on the box that say "REMOVE SCREW, USE HERE", thus attaching the bracket to the same ceiling joist the fan box is mounted to.


Best way to attach Shelf Brackets on a Drywall for hanging Light Fixture without using Stud?

That's a quick drawing of a shelf bracket set against a wall.

This is basically a bent lever, so if the weight of your light exerts a force F1 on the end of the bracket, which extends a distance A from the wall, then the bracket will pull on the anchor with a force F2 = F1 * A/B
TL/DR: pick a bracket with a long vertical part (B) to minimize the pulling force applied on the anchor.
Since both your brackets have B shorter than A, the pulling force on the anchor will be higher than the weight of the light fixture. Therefore, you might as well stick the anchor in the drywall ceiling instead, and forget about the shelf bracket. In this case the anchor will only bear the weight of the fixture.


Can I increase air volume by adding more fans?

Its been a long time since I did any fluids, and even then, it was not much. But I'll take a shot just from simple logic.

Suppose we have a single fan at the front end of the duct. It is rated for 650 CFM, and without any duct there, you will get essentially that. But suppose you put this fan in a duct. Moving air will see friction against the walls of the duct, slowing down the air flow. The back pressure reduces the flow, so you really don't get a full 650 CFM out the end of the duct. Of course, bends in the duct hurt even more, but you said it was a straight duct.

Now, suppose you add a second fan at the tail end of the duct. This is sucking air out at a nominal 650 CFM rate too. But in the end, all it does is give you something closer to the full 650 rating for the two fans. You don't get 1300 CFM, you get roughly 650 CFM.

With two fans in parallel, both feeding into the duck (or both pulling air out) if they are not limited by air flow through a duct that is big enough to handle one fan, then you might get more air through in theory. But the problem is, now you have higher velocity air. The link that gregmac provided tells us that pressure losses are proportional to the square of velocity. If you could double the velocity (and in order to double the air flow, you must double the velocity of the air as it moves through the duct) then you would quadruple those frictional losses.

It gets worse. As is pointed out in gregmac's link, with two fans right next to each other, the air flow into those fans will interfere with each other. So you really wont achieve the full rating for those fans if they are set side by side.

How about the 800 CFM fans? If they are too big for the size duct you have, then you again will be limited by the back pressure. You may end up with only a net of 650 CFM anyway.

It seems to make most sense to have a second duct. Run two ducts in parallel, both adequately sized for the fans they are fed by. Yes, I know this may not be an option.


How can I get the pneumatic brace on my screen door to release?

I just utilized Tester101's method of opening the door further and it worked perfectly. Just open the door as wide as it'll go and the locking gizmo disengages.


What should we do about stained hardwood floors that are still wet after three days?

I had this happen in 2007. I put too much stain(MinWax) on the floors and the air conditioning went out in the house so it was too moist for it to dry. I wiped it all down but found it too dark in spots. We ended up resanding and starting from scratch. I would try wiping it down and if not too dark, good. I would also turn up the air conditioning if you have it. It was very important here in the south to manage humidity as it turns out. Michael


Sealing and insulating drywall within a range hood

While I'd ordinarily reach for polyurethane spray foam, that may not be the best idea on a range exhaust duct that could conceivably have a grease fire inside it at some point in time.

Stuffing the hole/gap with rockwool would be relatively fast and easy, and fire-resistant (more than fiberglass, anyway.)

Slapping a scrap of drywall or cementboard over the open top area might further help, but you might need to dress up the edge of a sheet put there, as it would be visible from the floor.

But it slowly occurs to me that they do actually make a "fireblock" spray foam, and that would be just the ticket here, I think.


What to do with small patch of wallpaper in middle of wall?

You can rent a steamer to remove the wall paper.  You might also try wetting it with a spray bottle and letting it soak.  It will be tough to not damage the drywall paper so be prepared to spackle it.


What might be wrong with my sewage ejector pump?

If it has been working fine and this is a new problem then it seems like your waste line is plugged. Basically what's happening is your pump is pumping the waste and because it will not go through the waste line it's going up the water softener drain. The fact that water drains into the pit really isn't relevant. Also the upstairs toilet may tap into the waste line after the blockage, which is why that toilet works fine. If the vent is plugged it may cause some draining issues but no draining issues if the waste being pumped out. From the picture it looks like you have a good spot to put in a clean out so you can rod the waste line.


How do I remove the glass and change bulb from this lighting fixture?

Try pulling one of the brass knobs laterally away from the glass.

Sometimes they are spring-loaded and you can pull them which allows you to drop one side of the glass and pull it out of the other two


How can I stick printed pictures on my leased condo's walls?

You need sticky tack
I remember this from when I was a kid and it worked better back then. But it still works great and it's cheap.
www.lowes.com
You just use a little ball in each corner and press it into the wall. Simply remove by pulling when you move.


my fan over my table works from wall switch but the light fixtures doesnt come on unless i flip the switch numerous times

Read the manual for your fan.

For some fans, this is an intended feature to allow control of both fan and light from a single light switch.


How to remove old multi turn water inlet valve

that is a compression fitting,the nut is against the wall plate.using 2 pairs of adjustable wrenches,use 1 wrench to hold the valve(holding the valve just under the outlet hose)use the other wrench to loosen the nut.when done the valve will pop off leaving the nut and a brass ferrule.carefully remove the ferrule with pliers(wary not to crush the pipe,grip the ferrule and twist back and forth while putting pressure in a forward,pipe opening,direction)remove the nut,then replace with new valve as above,in reverse


How can I repair decking and a joist damaged by a small fire?

Left the barbecue on too long?

Of course the middle deck boards need to go, but you have the option of splicing the joist.

What you need is a 6 foot piece of the same material, screws and some good construction glue - the kind that comes in a caulking tube, not a squeeze bottle. PL-400 is good stuff.

Cut the new board into 2 x 3 foot lengths, apply glue generously, and sandwich the damaged section between them. Screw in from each side. No need for many or massive screws - that's what the glue is for.

Optional: chisel out the burnt section - makes the smell of freshly burnt deck go away faster. Paint the newly-exposed wood so it doesn't absorb water.

It may be possible to do all of this from underneath the deck, so you won't need to remove more than the damaged boards.


Your question is a bit convoluted, but the answer is very simple. The breaker size must match or be lower than the wire amp rating feeding the circuit, and appliances on that circuit should not exceed the max rating of the wire or breaker.  In a dedicated circuit for a dryer, for example, the normal size of the circuit would be 30 amps. 30 amps requires a minimum of #10 copper or #8 alu.  With this wire size, the breaker must not be larger than 30 amps.  Do not use a larger breaker then what the current rating of the wire is rated for.


Does Fluorescent Lighting Cause GFCI-Protected Circuits to Trip?

Most likely, it's an actual ground-fault in a defective ballast, especially in light of the fact that one fixture is causing it to trip.  In the past couple decades there's been a switch to electronic ballasts, starting with the higher-end units.  I see LOTS of failed, older magnetic ballasts and a few failed cheapie electronic ballasts.

A quality fluorescent fixture made out of stout sheetmetal is worth keeping, because it's infinitely upgradeable to better ballasts, T8, even LED.

So I would first, check the lampholders for any signs of physical damage or arcing.  Tombstone style ones cost about a buck and they're mostly standard.

Then I'd swap the ballas-- hold on, I'd pause and evaluate LED replacement "tubes" -- particularly for build quality, light quality and color.  There is an ocean of cheap LED "tubes" out there but the quality isn't very good.  To be honest I'm sticking with fluorescent because I can walk into Menards and get a top-name 90 CRI bulb in either T8 or T12 for a sane price. You won't see a 90 CRI LED at a consumerable price, for awhile yet.   I'll wait.

Since I'm doing the ballast, I'd make a call whether to stay with obsolete T12 tubes or switch to the superior T8.  It matters - the ballast must match the bulbs.  I've seen T8 tubes in a T12 ballast or vice versa, but it runs poorly and fails the bulbs quickly.

In the USA, we "outlaw" old tech by requiring quality comparable to the new tech.  If the market can do it, good on them.  So T12 bulbs are still for sale, and they have excellent efficiency and CRI.  But I wouldn't count on that long-term.

Lastly I'd evaluate instant start, vs rapid-start, vs programmed-start ballasts.  Instant-start wears out the tubes fast.  Rapid-start uses the pre-heat filaments (hence, 2 wires to each end of the tube) to warm-start the light.  Programmed-start ballasts use a microcomputer to do that very well. That matters if the bulb is hard-to-reach, expensive or switched on often.

As you might guess, instant-start ballasts uses 1 wire per tube.  They are often used with shorting lampholders, which short the two pins together. Those won't play nice (or even connect!) to a rapid- or programmed- start ballast, you'd need to change lampholders.

Lastly, your ground fault may come from a tendency in some ballasts to use capacitive effects between bulb and metal frame of the fixture to start the bulb.  These are cheaper ballasts, and yes, that thing they do is an intentional ground fault, which would trip a GFCI unless it's isolated (i.e. by a transformer).

Noting that you linked a $13 Utilitech fixture as your likely fixture, as you can guess, those are pieces o'junk.  I regrettably have about a half dozen.  I've had 2-3 ballast failures in 6 years! They usually use instant-start ballasts, and judge the sheetmetal for yourself.  The lampholders are alright... but they're shorting.   Cord's good.  All 8 inches of it.


Can I repurpose a 60 Amp heating circuit for standard outlets?

If the circuit is in good shape there is no reason you cannot change out the breakers and turn it into 2 120V 20 or 15 amp circuits. I am assuming of course that the 60A circuit is a 240V circuit and has a neutral and ground. If it does not have this configuration then you could use the circuit as 1 20 or 15 amp circuit, assuming of course that you have a ground connection also.

Another option would be to leave it in place and install a sub panel in the basement and use it to distribute power throughout the basement and leave extra spaces for future work. Once again you must have the correct number of conductors.

Good luck.


Brick drilling in close distance to another hole?

Angle the new hole away from the other by about 15 degrees. Put it on the correct side so that you can angle it towards the center of the brick.


Why are my some of my LED lights flickering?

Simply put, you have the wrong type of switch for the bulbs you have installed. Most (not in every scenerio) LED bulbs require you to install an ELV type dimmer. What you have installed is a standard incandescent dimmer.

There are three main types of dimming switches. Incandescent, CFL (for incandescents, fluorescents, and SOME LED bulbs), and ELV (for most popular LED bulbs).

If you look on the box that the bulb came in, somewhere in small print it should tell you that A) It's dimmable and B) what type dimming switch it requires.

I could go into detail on exactly why sometimes they flicker and other times they don't but I don't think you'd be that interested in learning the engineering aspects of these switches.

Other causes of flickering:

1) mixed bulb types (ie. incandescent and LED on the same switch)

2) mixed bulb vendors

3) non-dimmable LED bulbs

4) defective LED driver

5) defective dimming switch


Is it safe to use a GU10 adapter in a E27 recessed fixture?

Your fixtures should have a maximum thermal power rating, as long as you don't exceed that with your bulbs, there should be no safety problem from the fixture.

If you were to use light bulbs with electronics such as CFL or LED, you would also need to insure you don't exceed their temperature ratings. CFLs, for example, are usually made to be used in a "base down" position so the heat will rise and dissipate. A CFL used in a recessed fixture will be in a "base up" situation where the electronics will be hotter.

Have you considered using a PAR E27? I don't know your fitting size but a PAR20, 30, or 38 will probably work out better than trying to adapt a GU10.


Replace a 36" door with a Five ft slider on a two story load bearing out side wall

The 2x12's are good. 2x10's are calculated to be enough.  Double jack studs are good.  And definitely provide temporary support. This information is available on Table # R502.5(2) P.


Repair an old cylindrical hinge on an old bedroom closet

I think the first thing I would try is to remove the old hinge components and straightening them carefully.  I would clean them and file off any burs to prevent future wear.

I think the stability of the wood around the hardware is just as important as the hardware itself and therefore, I would dedicate some time to ensuring the hinges go back properly.  I would sure up any soft, rotted, or splintered wood with glue.  I would cut some wood shims to put in the old screw holes.  I would use glue and perhaps get some new, slightly longer stainless screws.

Patients and craftsmanship will be the key to repairing this.


In 1942, there was a war on, construction standards where not well developed, and concrete masonry systems were not nearly as prevalent as they are today. Which is a round about way of saying, that it looks like old construction that does not utilize contemporary practices.

To me, it looks like horizontal reinforcing. Today, it would probably be done with a prefabricated wire 'ladder' or similar module. In the old days, those weren't common so it is probably a small reinforcing bar (perhaps 1/4", but that's just a guess based on the time frame).

For peace of mind, it might make sense to hire a Professional Engineer to take a look; evaluate the situation and provide advice. Then there is will be more information for making an informed decision regarding what, if anything, needs doing; when it needs to be done; and how feasible it is to tackle on your own versus hiring construction staff.


How to connect power inverter to standard lighting circuit

Note that these days the best answer for solar, if you aren't determined to go completely off-grid and if your electric company supports it, may be to get inverters that support line synchronization and ask the electric company to set you up for net metering.

In this setup the inverters and line feed the house in parallel. If you're producing less power than you need, you buy the remainder from the power company; if you're producing more than you need, you sell the excess back to the power company. Much simpler than trying to maintain local batteries for extra or nighttime power, ensures that all power generated deducts from your electric costs, and in some cases you may be able to sell carbon-reduction credits as well.

I've been quite happy with this setup. I have a relatively small solar setup (8 "standard" panels), but my electricity use is relatively low too, and in the summer I usually do have one or two months of negative net usage. I haven't yet gone negative enough to actually have a negative bill, due to the utility's $6 account fee, but I've come close.

Note: The one disadvantage of a newer metering system is that, to keep your system from electrocuting linemen who expected a cable to be unpowered, net-metering systems are designed explicitly not to run in "island mode"; if the network goes dead, they shut down for safety. That does mean you have to make other plans for dealing with blackouts. As I said, if being able to go completely off-grid is important to you this may not be the best solution.

If it sounds interesting, ask your solar supplier/contractor for details. Anyone competent should be able to explain it in detail, and run numbers to tell you how long it would take for the system to pay back it's purchase cost after figuring in any currently available rebates and carbon credits (though the latter will be a best-guess, since these are sold via an auction mechanism and prices may change depending on supply and demand).


Can this frost free garden faucet leak be fixed?

I believe it was the bibb washer at the end of the stem. I ended up buying a repair kit and followed this video. https://youtu.be/JOsmL2XtyMw

The kit is a Wall Hydrant Complete Service Kit that I bought at Home Depot for $20.
http://thd.co/1WcIbrP

It wasn't too bad. Hardest part was removing the rusted screw in front of the knob. I had to use some PB Blaster and a ratchet to grip the hex screw head. Once I got that off, I just followed the video. The faucet is drop free now!


Your front door probably currently opens inward. If you try to just flip the door such that you so not have to change around the hardware on the door (old outside becomes inside and old inside becomes outside) then the door would be oriented to as to open outwards. The door's frame is likely not at all compatible with this.

If the hardware on the door can truly be flipped such that the hinges can be swapped to swing from the other edge and the latch and deadbolt can be flipped side for side then you have a good start. However it is not just the door that you have to look at. There is also the door jamb that would require some significant work. The hinge cutouts need to move to the opposite side as well as the latch and deadbolt holes and strike plates. This consideration is probably best done by just replacing the whole door jamb as trying to patch the old hinge cutouts and latch holes can always look like a patch job.


Is it good that windows are shut when heating is on

There are very few workplaces or residences which are so air tight that air cannot exchange with the outdoors adequately.  Particularly if an exterior door is opened for a few seconds once in awhile or a heating or cooking appliance exhausts outdoors (thus drawing in outside air).  Buildings which are designed to be really airtight will have an outside air intake, usually with a heat exchanger for energy efficiency.

In ordinary construction up to the 1990s, there was little concern of consuming interior oxygen, even with a small apartment and a large number of people visiting, cooking, etc.  Doors, walls, windows, floors, closets, plumbing and electrical holes simply were not that tightly sealed.

If this is truly a concern for you, rent or buy an air oximeter.  An "inexpensive" laboratory model for O2 is less than $1000 here (a bargain compared to many).  Lab instrumentation rental businesses typically require a month or two minimum rental.  To get a reasonably complete understanding of the air composition, a model which reads both CO2 and O2 is desirable.


If I replace my main panel, will I need to fit AFCIs?

With the NEC straight up I think 210.12.D. Would require AFCI's where required (when the branch is modified, replaced or extended) the only exception is if the conductors are extended less than 6 feet with no new devices. Note I just checked with a inspector I worked with in my last county, he said 6' on either end with no new devices in our state would not require all the new code, I always read this as an extension to the end of line for a remodel with the total devices the same so even in my state and county there are some options.


Can I run copper wire to a subpanel via the crawl space without conduit?

From the 2011 NEC 310.15(B)(7) table.
A 100 amp residential panel only requires #4 copper or #2 aluminum.
3/0 copper would be a waste of money.

If you use SE cable you will need 3 insulated conductors along with the bare wire.

  338.10(B)(2) Use of Uninsulated Conductor. Type SE service-entrance cable shall be permitted for use where the insulated conductors are used for circuit wiring and the uninsulated conductor is used only for equipment grounding purposes.

Since you a using it for a feeder to a sub-panel you have to have an insulated neutral and use the bare for the equipment ground.

Do not bond the neutral and ground in the sub-panel and keep the neutrals and grounds separated. You need a panel that is "suitable for use as service equipment" since it will have an insulated neutral bar. Discard the green bonding screw.

Happy Friday!


What is this texture called and how can I match it?

For such a small area, you might consider the ceiling texture in a spray can with an adjustable tip. Get whichever one says 'orange peel'. (Note that there are water based ones that dry relatively slowly and other ones that dry more quickly.) You'll be able to get a credible match. An exact match is tough, so don't beat yourself up too much over it.


Place a wet towel in your dryer, turn it on, and in 5 minutes look for the steam somewhere around your house.


Can I use a tandem 20A breaker for two kitchen circuits?

Tandem breakers are totally legit and are two totally separate circuits. In fact they can ONLY be two totally separate circuits. The error that people sometimes make is in thinking that they can use the two poles of a tandem breaker as a 240V circuit, and THAT will not work.


Your plan sounds fine.

If it were me, I would likely do the temporary support from beneath (a temporary stud extending from the floor below, intersecting the ceiling at the intersection of B and P).  Either way, I think you will be fine.

A reciprocating saw is the right tool for this job.  It will allow you to cut the nails holding the existing cross member in place.

I'm not sure of your particular situation, but since you are already reframing the opening, you should consider adding a drop-down ladder.  As long as you have the space, this will make the attic much more usable in general.


Would a french drain solve my water issues?

If you have an area to drain the water two that is lower than your crawl space a French drain will work great.
I have seen folks put them in with the drain point higher than the low area they were trying to keep dry.
In some cases if natural drainage is not available a small pit in the drain can be pumped to the storm runoff, this is requires in some areas to prevent standing water under the house.


Can a hole cutter be used with a dremel?

Even if you could find an adapter to connect the bit to a rotary tool, I don't think the rotary tool would hold up to the weight of the bit and the torque it produced.  Rotary tools are not designed to handle large amounts of torque.

The weight of a bit like that, and the drag forces it would encounter would likely be too much for the rotary tool to handle.  This would cause the motor of the rotary tool to burn out, simply not spin up to speed, or stop as soon as you started cutting.


If you have the old shower head, consider to re-install it temporarily for the purpose of this exercise.

Run the water through the shower head into a five gallon bucket. Measure the amount of time it takes to reach a mark on the bucket.

Replace the shower head with the hand-held unit. Perform the above test again. If the amount of time for the hand-held is shorter than the fixed head, your water flow through the plumbing to the shower has increased. If the time is greater, you have a lower rate of water flow through the new hand-held shower.

It's not unusual for shower temperatures to vary when a hot water tap is opened elsewhere, if pressure and flow are insufficient and/or the plumbing is configured to allow one pipe to take more of the hot water.

I suspect that your flow rate has changed sufficiently to reduce the hot water flow to that leg of the plumbing. Today's shower heads, both fixed and hand-held are supposed to meet US flow rate requirements:

  Did you know that standard showerheads use 2.5 gallons of water per
  minute (gpm)? Water–saving showerheads that earn the WaterSense label
  must demonstrate that they use no more than 2.0 gpm. The WaterSense
  label also ensures that these products provide a satisfactory shower
  that is equal to or better than conventional showerheads on the
  market.


What size wire for 100 amp sub-panel from a 200amp main panel?

The NEC provides wire sizing based on the type to be used and the application.

(source: diychatroom.com)

But here is a useful question that's already got all the answers I believe you'll need:

What size wire should I use to feed a subpanel in my garage?


How to fix small holes in a wall caused by throwing darts?

The right answer is to fill them with spackling compound or taping compound.

Spackle dries hard - applied with a putty knife and then has to be sanded to remove excess and flatten surface. There are various flavors including lightweight, fast drying, purple-stained until it dries, etc.

Taping compound is also applied with a putty knife. It is water soluble and can be wiped with a sponge to level and remove excess (probably the easiest correct solution). Not as hard as spackle, but in a hole of that size, not an issue.  Slightly harder to get a perfectly smooth surface.

If you are really in a bind and cannot go out and buy the right stuff, a common quick fix is plain white toothpaste. It consists of about 50% aluminum hydroxide and/or calcium carbonate - the kind of stuff you find as filler in real fillers. Won't cause significant problems, but does not set up as firm as correct patches. Can be applied with a finger, a butter knife or whatever. Not pro, but fast.

All such patches will be white or off white. They may stand out unless painted (depending on wall color). Most of these fillers can be tinted but if painting will follow, not an issue.

SUPPLEMENT: Two other variants on spackle are painters' putty and painters' caulk. Both are less hard than traditional spackle and usually come in bigger containers or caulk gun tubes.


How can I prevent silt from clogging my yard drain?

I'm trying to figure out how there's so much dirt inside the frame that the grate screws into. Can you dig that back some? Is that just surface dirt that's been washed in there and collected over the years or is it coming up from below the slab?
If you can excavate some of that dirt around the outside of the drain pipe, I'd do that, then put a fitting on it and a small piece of pipe to extend the drain right up to the bottom of the grate. That should keep the mud from under the slab out of the drain while still allowing the slab itself to drain reasonably well.
I'd also suggest snaking out the drain as you've likely got quite a bit of gunk in there.
An update based on the explanation in the comments:
Since what I saw as dirt around the drain pipe is more of a concrete "funnel". It appears that this is the location where water & dirt are bubbling up from below.
I'd suggest using some silicon caulk or epoxy as a filler around the top of the grate frame. You want something that's designed for outdoor use and can take some wear and tear, as well as remaining flexible enough to not crack in freezing weather*.
This should prevent things under the slab from working their way to the top of the slab and then down the drain.
Another possibility would be to skim the entire surface of the slab, since it's looking pretty tough, with some self-leveling cement, then coating the entire surface with an epoxy finish that's specifically designed for concrete floors. There are a variety that are designed for garage floors - these should be durable enough to hold up to a non-garage, but outdoor use. When you're applying the epoxy, cover over the screw hole in the grate frame to ensure you don't fill it, then bring the epoxy down into the frame to cover that gap.
*I'm making the assumption that you live in an area where freezing occurs. I see a couple of cracks in the slab, and the other wear on the concrete looks like it's led a bit of a rough life.


Thank you Ed Beal. Yes, these are washer-less ceramic valves. I changed the cartridge and it was simple than I thought. Basically you remove the plate and turn the chrome sleeve counter clockwise to remove it. Then use a channel lock to loosen the cartridge by holding the edge of the cartridge and turning it counter clockwise. Installed a new cartridge and gave it a gentle tight snug. No more leaks and shower works very well.
Please see the pics I took.
This is the cartridge part number

After removing plate and sleeve

After loosening the cartridge

Cartridge removed

Installed a new cartridge