I determined the cause of the problem. It was a failing solenoid valve (part number 0404) controlling the outflow from the plastic container on the left side (supposedly a heat exchanger).
The symptom of water in the bottom occurred after draining was complete (which, as it turns out, it successfully were) where the machine takes in some new water to the container. Presumably, this is not supposed to be full at this point, and so water entered into the main compartment by way of an overflow outlet (part no. 0402 in the parts drawing).
After ordering a new valve for 200 dkk and replacing the old one, my washer now works again.
Also, if doing this, be sure to unplug the washer. After changing the valve, I discovered it runs on mains voltage.


How to attach metal knife rack to tile without ruining tile?

If the tiles have a non-porous glaze, an adhesive over a larger contact area should work fine.
Adhesive Joint Strength and Surface Area
The strength of the adhesive joint is proportional to the area in contact.  This is how drywallers hang 100lb sheets of drywall with adhesive and almost no screws: Because of the large area over which the adhesive spreads the holding force to the studs or joists.  The larger the sheet of drywall, the larger the adhesive surface area, the higher the holding strength.
Adapter Plate
Because the rack's mounts have small surface area, you would build an adapter plate with adequate adhesive contact surface area to support the weight.  You mount the rack to the plate and adhere the plate to the tile.
Suppose the plate had an area 4"x4" in contact with tile.  That bond will be 20x the strength of the 0.9"x0.9" area of your existing mounts.  Increasing the contact area is how you get strength from your adhesive joint.
Adhesive Type
Once you've increased the contact surface area, you are no longer requiring anything extraordinary from your adhesive.  I would guess that something like silicon tiling caulk that is designed for clean removal from tile would work best.  You don't want something with too much holding force per unit area because it will take too much force to pop the plate off when you're done.
Plate Material
Ideally the plate material is something slightly flexible so that you can peel rather than pop the adhesive joint when you remove it.
If the plate is rigid then you'll be applying the entire failure force to the tile when you remove it.  This could crack or lift the tile.
On the other hand, a flexible plate allows you to peel the plate which means overcoming only a small area of holding strength at a time.  This is the exact same principle as peeling scotch tape.
Sacrificial Test
To be safe you'll want to test a representative mockup of an adapter plate and tile to test the following:

the plate/tile bond is adequate to support the weight
the adhesive can be removed without marking or marring the tile or grout
you can pop the plate from the tile without breaking or lifting the tile


Should I use natural decking oil on a dark wooden deck?

If you want to see what it will look like with the oil finish applied, clean an inconspicuous area and put a bit of it on. Alternatively, untinted wood finishes often give the same appearance as the look when the wood is wet; clean an area and get it wet for a reasonable facsimile.

I would use what I had in hand anyway, because free is good, and natural weathering/graying will occur soon and your color choice can be changed next season (or the year after) if you prefer a finish with a dark tint.


How do I prevent an LED rope light from glowing dim when switched off?

This is caused by phantom current, it's does not indicate a problem and need not be remedied unless the glow bothers you.


Water base , oil baed or shellac primer on old plaster wall

You absolutely cannot beat the shellac primer. If you go this route, get Zinsser BIN. It will cover pretty much anything and stick to pretty much anything. The drawback is the cost, at around US$45/gal it ain't cheap. This stuff uses alcohol as the primary solvent, so you might want to get a respirator that is rated properly to filter ethanol (or maybe not, but don't drive after you use it...). This can be used in most sprayers directly out of the can, it's quite thin.

The oil based (like original Kilz) is good too, and a lot cheaper. It's also harder to apply, very thick and prone to brush marks. And it puts off some powerful fumes (so does Shellac, but that is NOTHING compared to Kilz, which uses some more noxious solvents that will make your eyes water). Oil based primer is going to stick to most existing surfaces. This will not work in some sprayers as it is too thick, even after thinning (assuming you only thin it as much as the manufacturer suggests).

Latex is probably the cheapest option, and also the least flexible. It's a bit easier to apply than Kilz. but not as easy as shellac. You shouldn't need a respirator to use it, though. Latex is only suitable for application over existing Latex. If there is any doubt, don't use latex, there is a chance you'll regret it. I've seen badly applied latex where you could cut a small hole in the paint, and actually slide your hand up and behind the dried paint, lifting a large section right off the wall.

In all cases, make sure you scrub the walls before you do anything. This is extremely important if you are painting after removing wallpaper, because it is necessary to get all of the old paste off the walls. TSP is the best cleaner, but it's not environmentally friendly. The TSP-substitute is almost as good. 80% of the work is in prep; slapping paint on the wall is the easy part.


Is it safe to splice these cords with tape instead of a terminal?

No, I would not do that.

First the one cord has a ground wire apparently not being picked up by the second cord.
They both should have the ground wire.
Secondly it is not a safe procedure to splice a 120 VAC line without
it being protected in an approved box.
Third the splice should be made with an approved connector, such as a wire nut or crimp.

The best way would be to replace the entire cord with one continuous wire.


When is it necessary to paint a wooden fascia (barge) board?

Exposed wood must always be sealed in some fashion unless it's chemically treated or of a species that's rot-resistant (cedar, teak, etc.). Even then it tends to preserve the aesthetics of wood to paint, oil, or varnish it.

Metal fascia is commonly installed right over "subfascia" (raw SPF 2x6 lumber).
If everything is installed correctly it should never see water.


How can I make self-tapping sheet metal screws go into metal studs more easily?

You're using the wrong type of screws.

It should be a #7 Pan-Head

And Not the self tapping.  The self tapping is good for thicker metal studs but the the sharp tip works best for those angle shots you're having trouble with.

Use #8 self tapping for the tougher thicker steel studs


I can only advise you on what I think you will find.

You already mentioned the best possible way to start correcting the situation, remove the gutter and finished fascia, but you cannot stop there, you will need to remove the top piece of siding that meets the soffit as well. My thought is, the metal soffit is very thin, and the soffit that you neighbor has, is standard soffit material that is available perforated to give the ventilation you need. It is 5/8" thick, so it will not fit in the same space the thinner original soffit does. The nails holding the last piece should visible at the very top, just under the trim strip.

When you remove all this you will have access to the sub fascia to check its condition. The ice forming behind the gutter, is not a good thing, water may be getting behind the metal and rotting the sub fascia, so it is worth a check. On your neighbors picture, the ice appears to be coming over the front edge only, where it should be. Since you should be going with the thicker soffit material. you will need to remove the track at the wall too. The soffit will be a little lower since it will contain the 5/8" soffit, and any damage you create on the siding from its removal can be cut off. After all the soffit is installed new, set a new, or possibly reuse the original "J strip" at the top hide the edge of new soffit at the wall and to capture the top edge of the siding after it is trimmed off to its new dimension. Set in place with new nails like the originals, pilot first. The old hole may have been cut off by the needed trimming, or at least hidden better by the "J strip".

That piece at the top that caps your siding now may be a "trim strip" very thin, maybe 3/8" thick at the most. If that is the case, you would do well to add 2 "J strips" or an inside corner specifically made to handle the soffit and siding going into it from both directions. You may be able to do this with one J strip, add it after the siding is on WITHOUT trimming it as mentioned before. Slot the nail hole to allow expansion and contraction. Set the j strip to the rough soffit to hide the top of the siding, set the soffit material and set the fascia and gutter last. There is a small chance the last piece has been "dimpled", and is held in place by locking into the trim piece, Ease out the trim piece edge and it MAY come out. If it is caulked in place, it will be a bear to get out.

You may need to get a taller piece of fascia to accommodate the 5/8" taller face you just created, it may need to be taller any from the symptoms where the ice is. If not the gutter may have not been installed so the front edge is HIGHER than the back, it is not supposed to be. Typically the back is high enough to put the back edge, IF possible under the drip edge so any runoff of the roof is forced into the gutter.

If you want to consider an alternative that you may retrofit easier and may look better too, is this line of continuous soffit vent. This link is for a full box, but you may find a smaller quantity elsewhere. It is made to set in with a thin plywood soffit, but the edges can be cut off which would make it quite flimsy, or you could finish making the bend that would "hem" the edge making it a bit stronger. Razor knife the section at the wall, remove the soffit and gutter, which I think would be a good move to inspect the framing. Pull the nails if any holding it in place at the fascia, work the old soffit so the score mark you made at the wall will flex and the old piece will come down. Take care not to distort the edge you cut, bends here will make trouble trying to get the new piece in. Slip this stuff in under the cut at the wall, between the old soffit and trim strip for the siding and tack it back in place before you reset the fascia.


Unless you are specifically being targeted, the majority of "security measures" will most likely be unnecessary/unrealistic.

Regardless, the methods/options of securing a home or structure are likely too numerous to effectively create an answer for this site.

If you are convinced you need to secure your home against the KGB, NSA, or your creepy neighbor, there are some basic measures you could take.

Window film for privacy
Better door locks such as ANSI Grade 1 door locks
A way to securely destroy sensitive items/documents (shredder, fire pit)
Avoid any network-based security system (smart-home items included)
Use a P.O. box for all  mail.
Signal Jammers to prevent unwanted snooping (although this will block your own as well)
Military grade mobile jammer (jammers are not legal in the US)
Only use cash, eliminate credit cards and bank transactions
Live off-grid
Avoid all contact with civilization (electronic and personal)
Be under witness protection, get new identity


What is the impact of a backwards connected hot water radiator?

I can't say I'm familiar with your setup, but only with big old radiators & baseboards of the same principal & setup. Your problem is no problem in those systems, they are just to circulate water in one direction of a daisy-chain. The only definition of inlet was which side a flow management valve was installed on.

But, definitely get the plumber back out to inspect his work with you & explain how the system works. In your case I would assume it also doesn't matter at all because your system is actually zoned (it better be), meaning that this radiator might be its own loop & in is out & out is in regardless of what end & what pipe is where.

Don't prejudge & stay calm, just ask him back out to briefly explain the system. You'll need him friendly when the system goes active to adjust the zones for your maximum comfort & overall house balance.

Due to your response indicating this is indeed the start of a zone, the best fix would be to just swap the pipes at the manifold in the basement (or wherever) as the other radiators after the incorrectly installed unit are just flow-through units. Proven by their working perfectly with the first unit being essentially bypassed almost entirely.

No cause for panic nor messy permanent repairs, like replacing the entire zone. The plumber may have initially intended the incorrect unit to be a flow-through, but had to change his plan if a zone was added after the fact (& he/she forgot about the reversed plumbing). I don't know the entire situation, I'm just explaining & not excusing, a proper repair is absolutely necessary.


How to wire multiple 240V, 20A electrical baseboard heaters

You would not normally wire two heaters that are rated for 240VAC operation in series on a 240VAC power source. Instead they would be connected in parallel along a daisy chain of wiring like shown here. Note that the below does not depict the safety ground wire connections.


How / Should I insulate my Basement Walls

Since you live in Virginia and it doesn't get very cold for extended periods of time and you said that the basement is fully below grade, insulating the basement may not be cost effective.  The outside ground temperature from about 36" down stays approximately 55 degrees the year round. If you have a forced air furnace, you could install a couple heat supplies and returns.  Depending on your end result of finishing your basement the supply registers could be located in the bottom of the supply duct work and the returns should be mounted near the floor level possibly in the furnace return ducting or elsewhere depending upon the basement layout. The supply registers would be open during the winter and closed in the summer. The returns would always be open. This would add some heat to the basement in the winter and assist with the cooling in the summer and keep the basement ventilated year round for comfort. I would probably just use styrofoam mounted tight against the walls and finished as you like. The styrofoam would be it's own vapor barrier. I would however ask builders in your area for their recommendations, first.


Open Riser Stairs / Removing carpeting and converting to hardwood

I'll try to address your questions, though they're still a bit nebulous.
Is this an opportunity to replace the treads with solid hardwood?
Sure. Why not? As far as I'm concerned, a weekend presents such an opportunity.
Is this a conventional project?
No. Why does that matter?
The reason may be that there aren't many open-riser stairs to begin with, and it's not often that stair treads get replaced in general. That doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't.
What is the conventional method of covering the underside of the tread?
I'm not quite sure what this means. If you're installing wood treads they'll be wood on the bottom, too. If you're wondering about the steel brackets, I'd paint them or have them powder-coated, maybe. Stainless might be another option if you want high-class. You'd have to have a machine shop cut sections from angle stock and drill for bolts. I might invert them for an exposed style and so you can fit the treads well to the stringer/skirt. Speaking of, obviously you'll need to strip and refinish that.
Is adding 1/2 inch to the top of the tread going to make the first step noticeably rise too high?
Well, it would, but you're reworking your mounts anyway, so you can set them to the proper height.
A few other thoughts...
Tread options that come to mind:

Solid oak (not really that expensive if you buy them from a big box store)
Bullnosed construction-grade pine/fir lumber (2x10 or 12)--I've built such a set in my own home and it was beautiful

Some general notes:

Wooden treads can be slippery; consider placing silica grit in the upper varnish or wrapping them with a thin runner
Open-riser stairs are actually illegal in many cases nowdays for safety reasons--more than a few broken legs have resulted from slips through the void
Recognize that you have fewer stringers than modern stairs; be aware of how much strength and stiffness you'll need in a tread for safety and a quality feel


Will a consumer UPS clean up power from a conventional genetator

A regular consumer UPS will keep the voltage within acceptable limits for electronic equipment, but it won't do much cleanup of electrical noise or irregular frequency while it's powering the equipment from the mains power.  That's because they're designed to supply mains power as long as it is available.  The battery kicks in only if the mains power goes out or drops below a minimum threshold.  Surge protection protects against high voltage spikes.

An "online" UPS will do what you're asking.  With these, you always operate off the battery, so the output is a constant voltage, constant frequency, and noise-free.  The mains power keeps the battery charged when it's available.  Voltage or frequency fluctuations, noise, or other problems don't affect their ability to charge the battery.

That's the basics.  Unfortunately, things are a little more complicated as far as what you can actually buy for the kind of application you have.  Many products are actually hybrids, particularly in the size used for home electronics.  This discussion by APC describes the technologies available and what they can do as far as cleaning up messy power.  You can use that to compare the products available (and their costs).  Here is some summary information from that link:

As you can see, the technology that does what you want is generally expensive or impractical for applications smaller than commercial use.  But at least you have the information to make a more informed decision.


Mounting long pipe as curtain rod from ceiling between exposed beams. What are these hex bolt sleeves used for existing pipes / better alternative?

That is called a rod coupling nut.

The part above it is a double ended wood screw threaded rod stud, or something like that

Or you can buy a vertical threaded rod hanger


What nails should I use to attach Hardie plank lap siding to 3/4" furring strips in concrete wall?

I'm a little lost. First, what are you using to attach the furring strips to the concrete? I'm  hoping some construction adhesive and a few concrete screws/anchors to bear the weight You could use the same thing to attach the Hardee-board directly to the concrete (with a layer of moisture barrier separating them to keep moisture from the concrete seeping into the siding). I'm also not sure why you're telling us what the garage door is framed with if these 2x6s aren't a substantial part of the anchor for the furring strips.

Anyway, assuming it cannot be done any other way, I'd say that using 1" nails where 1-1/4" is recommended is acceptable; maybe use a few more along each furring strip to compensate for the decreased "bite" of the shorter length of each nail. Understand that a pneumatic nailer will drive the nails down beneath the surface of the Hardee-board, so even with 1/16" clearance that 1" nail may contact the concrete. The only additional recommendation I would give is to nail in at a slight downward angle where possible, as if you were hanging a picture. The angle will not only give you a little extra depth to drive the nail, but the angle will increase the leverage the nail has to hold the siding, like using a nail to hang a picture.


Can I put more than 8 cameras on an 8 channel camera system?

Answer is no...I have the same setup as you. I tried adding 9th camera (wireless) It recognizes it but i can only add it if i remove one of the existing cameras so it looks like they put a limit on how many streams it can take and it could be because hardware limitation.


Refrigerator on a shared electric line with Stove and 5 countertop outlets

The refrigerator outlet being shared with countertop outlets is fine, and very common in older houses.  However, there are some advantages to having the refrigerator be on a dedicated circuit.  The primary advantage is that you're at no risk of some other device tripping the breaker, and you don't turn it back on right away for whatever reason, not realizing that your food is spoiling.  The other advantage is that if you ever install a backup power source, such as a generator, it's much easier to wire that to keep your food save through power outages.  It's up to you whether this is worth breaking out the drywall for or not.


Buying a programmable thermostat to replace a manual one: any considerations?

You have to check that the thermostat is compatible with your HVAC system.  Heat pumps need the emergency heat switch, multi-stage high efficiency HVAC's have multiple fan settings, and electric baseboards may have 120/240v lines instead of the 24v wires.  For the lower end models, or for those seen in the far north or south, you may have a thermostat for only heating or cooling, but not both.

So before buying a thermostat, check the type and features on your existing HVAC system and limit your selection to the thermostats that support your system.  Then, see what features you want and how easy the system is to use.  Some systems have wifi, some have programs for all 7 days instead of 5/2 split, but if you have all 7 days, how easy is it to change the setting for every day?


Where can I find replacement light bulbs for this bathroom?

As your last photo notes, it’s a G25 bulb, also known as a globe bulb. Your particular ones are compact fluorescent but they were originally incandescent and are also available in LED, which I’d recommend.
A simple web search for “G25 light bulb” returns many matches, including Home Depot and Lowe’s.


Fluorescent ceiling fan light single flash when switch turned on

ThreePhaseEel had it right in the comments on my original question, a new wireless receiver fixed the problem easily.


Combine multiple smaller wires to make bigger wire

Generally, no. A break in one of the wires would compromise the current carrying capacity of the bond. This is less likely to happen in a wire that is manufactured at the appropriate size.


What is common practice when doing electrical rough-in for recessed lights in a drop ceiling and walls are not yet finished?

Just leave a tail hanging at the location of the first light can. Tape the cleanly-cut end (in case someone does something stupid at the panel) and let the inspector know what's up. Everything after that can be addressed at final inspection.

The same situation (and solution) applies for bathroom vanities and other fixture-only (no box) lighting.


Why is there a jumper wire between the hot screws on my outlet?

Someone broke the fin off, then had breaker's remorse

A factory-new duplex receptacle has a copper "fin" connecting the two screws on each side -- breaking this fin off on the hot (brass) side is done when you want a half-switched receptacle outlet, for instance.  It appears somebody broke the fin off at one point, then either the same person or a different person had regrets about the broken fin and replaced it with a jumper wire.  So, leave the fin on your new receptacle, and all will be well.


If there is a draft, it is 99% chance it is coming from outside.
Uh, yeah you can caulk it. You can caulk anything. I have seen boats with so much caulk on the windows that there was more caulk than window.
If it were me, I would (A) find out how air is getting into the wall and stop that from happening, then (B) remove the baseboard and properly build the wall all the way to the floor using joint compound (drywall wall) or plaster (plaster wall), then reattach the baseboard.
Here is a basic principle: when building walls, the wall is supposed to go COMPLETELY to each of the 4 edges.


Is it possible to fit a 5000 litre tank on a normal rooftop?

You need a structural engineer. There is no way for us to judge the stability of your roof


Thoughts, in no particular order:

Where's the water heater? The longer the pipe run between it and the kitchen, the longer you'll be waiting for hot water. There are instant hot water devices if this is an issue.

The oven will presumably need either an electrical or gas connection.

You're putting the dining table directly under the toilet. How's the sound insulation?

Is the wall you'd be knocking down load-bearing?


How much water do water softeners waste?

You can easily calculate how often regeneration will be necessary if you know how hard your water is. If you are using city water, they should be able to tell you otherwise there are kits you can use to test your water. And any softener salesman should test your water as part of sizing your system.

In my area, the hardness is measured in grains per gallon and the value is 10.

My water softener is rated at 30,000 grains so I need to regenerate after using 3,000 gallons of water. I use about 100 gallons per day so I regenerate every month.

This link gives you an idea of how much water is used during regeneration for several different brands of water softener:
https://web.archive.org/web/20101007181800/http://www.watervalue.com/softener_regen_water_usage.html


General question: Adding Wifi switches to late 90s home

The yellow wire nuts are fine. The wire looks like 3 #14 AWG so yellow is OK. You make a comment in your question " no neutral/ground on the switch itself", for clarification, the neutral and ground are not the same and you wouldn't normally have a neutral on a switch unless it was a fancy timer, dimmer or smart switch.


"Should I just replace the entire valve and assume the wiring is
good?"

Don't assume, you should test the wiring by connecting the wires from the problem valve to the valve next to it and activating that station using the Manual feature on your timer (or waiting for it to operate according to your existing timer schedule.

"Should I just replace the entire valve and assume the wiring is good?"

We can't tell where the leak is coming from so we don't know if it needs to be replaced, maybe it just needs a simple washer or o-ring. Most valves can be rebuilt using a washer/gasket kit (those are particular to brand and model, get the info off of the valve and google it). The solenoid can also be easily replaced (the buzzing noise, whether it still works or not, may be an indicator of near-future failure).

I don't mention rebuilding as a money saving strategy, I mention it as part of the answer to your second question:

"is there a way to get this off without cutting the pipe?"

NO


Is there a tool shaped like a thin-bladed putty knife but with a rubber blade and spongelike surface?

This sounds like a disposable foam paint brush

  Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


The breaker trip was the ballast dying.  It is done.

You can replace the ballast if you like.  EBay is flush with T8 ballasts at sane cost; many are pulls from fixtures converted to direct-wire LED.  Pay very close attention to the number of wires going to each lampholder (tombstone). If each gets 2 wires, replace with preferably a rapid-start or programmed-start ballast, though an instant-start will do. If each tombstone gets only 1 wire, only an instant start ballast will wire up.   This ballast change will allow you to use the absolutely superb 90 CRI tubes now readily available (those utilitechs were junk) or will allow you to use "plug-n-play" LED tubes.

If your ultimate plan is LED, do not use any ballast at all.   Obtain direct-wire LED "tubes" that accept power from opposite ends of the tube. This is safer and plays well with all fixtures including instant-start (LEDs with same-end power do not like 1-wire tombstones).


I can use existing plumbing lines to make a bathroom and why the black pipes are inside the white pipes

Expanding on Ed's answer. When drainlines are encased in concrete the sleeve protects them from damage during construction. There's usually a lot of equipment or heavy material being moved around and you don't want them damaged. They're tough to repair if broken at the floorline.


Is it prudent to unclog kitchen sink with boiling water?

I'm going to assume you are 100000% correct. But this is an assumption. The only way you are going to know that this is the issue is to hire a plumber, or clear the issue yourself.

This said, your concern of "pushing it further" is real, but realize that millions of people use or eat fatty substances in their home cooking and never have these issues. this leads one to suspect your drain was already nearly clogged for any number of reasons, or someone poured a nice plate of ham (bacon etc) grease in there.

Either way - speculation aside...

Just get a bucket, remove the elbow and look inside and see..... You can just replace the trap at this point. Make sure there are no rough edges for food, hair, etc to catch on. Chances are a toothpick or something is in there and this is building up around it.

Generally, small amounts at any given time will make its way safely to your sewer and you'd never be the wiser. Large amounts, or some other clog may have exacerbated this issue.

Decide if its bad enough to have your main line snaked for extra prevention, but chances are you do not need to do this.


Plug it into a circuit that's rated for the power it draws.

Lacking details on the device, its ratings, and what the circuit you are plugging it into is rated at (or other things that are using power at the same time on that circuit) can't say much beyond that.

The time behavior is normal for an overload. You should not continue to use it in the manner you have been.


What is the name for this type of anchor bolt with a "leg"?

This is a specialty bolt made up my the manufacturer of the basketball hoop. I suspect you are asking because you need a new one. I doubt if you will be able to find one, but you should be able to make up something very similar that will do the same function. Get a regular bolt, washer and nut, with the right diameter and length. A second washer might be good enough to sandwich in the the square bar to the frame. If not, get a small plate and drill a hole in it for the bolt. The plate will serve the same purpose as the "leg" on the existing bolt.


how to open windows without handles or locks

No hinge amigo. Time to get new windows if you want these to open.


How do I fix drywall damaged by peeling paint tearing off the outer paper?

You'll need to patch the areas, where the paper tore off, and then skim coat the entire wall, so that the patched areas, don't stand out "shinier and flatter", than the rest of the wall.

At this point, Google is your friend, especially if you plan to fix it yourself. You may also be able to get a contractor, to do the whole thing, for a fairly cheap price. Prepping a bathroom for paint, is beer money for some guys.

Research, research, research!


What could go wrong with washing machine water hammer devices?

In my experience, these things just don't work. I used to rave about them, and tell everybody to use them to stop water hammer. I was wrong.

In theory they should work, but in practice they do not. Modern washing machines have fast acting solenoids, which can turn off the water very quickly. Water hammer arrestors designed to fit on washing machine supply lines, are simply too small to absorb enough of the energy to prevent water hammer.

Your best bet is to secure the plumbing better, and/or buy larger arrestors.

To answer your question directly... There's probably nothing wrong with the devices you've received, aside from being poorly designed and undersized.


Grounding isn't the problem, your neutral is

Since the EZ-Generator-Switch for your furnace has a continuous neutral and ground, I'd recommend doing nothing additional here for grounding.  Your generator is already grounded through the ground connection from your house wiring to the EZ-Generator-Switch and the ground wire in the cord from the EZ-Generator-Switch to the generator.

Now, the neutral is a different problem.  Portable generators bond the neutral to the ground themselves as they're intended to be used as standalone supply sources.  Your house wiring also bonds the neutral to the ground at the main panel.  So, not switching the neutral to your furnace between your house wiring and your generator effectively parallels the two neutral/ground bonds, which is problematic from a Code compliance/safety standpoint (a GFCI equipped generator will trip its GFCI under these circumstances, and it can have other baleful effects as well such as inadvertently energizing grounded metal objects with circulating currents).

If you wish to use this generator only for powering your important things in this (hacky, but safe) way, you can remove the neutral/ground bond wire from the generator and set it aside.  However, if you do this, you'll need to replace the neutral/ground bond if you wish to use the generator for anything else.  A better solution would be to switch out your existing EZ-Generator-Switch for the version with the switched neutral -- that way, the two neutral/ground bonds (your house's and the generator's) never get put in parallel.


The "how to" is you send that rubbish back to the dark place.  It is not safe nor legal, and doesn't even fit our wiring.  You bought it in a way that circumvented the systems that assure quality, safe products in the consumer retail stream.  Don't do that with electrical gear.

Then you buy any of a wide variety of products which do that same function, work with standard radio interfaces, but much more importantly, standard plugs and sockets so you can hook them up without creating an unsafe condition.  And most importantly of all, these products follow our safety standards and have a proper UL or ETL listing (third party testing proving it).

Those include smart bulbs, smart bulb sockets which piggyback onto an Edison base, smart outlet modules that plug into a standard socket and give you a controlled socket, etc.  There's no shortage of these products.  Your local big-box stores has pages and pages of them on their website.


What is this gutter part and how do I keep birds out

Don't see what the confusion is here.  When you see this it's almost always to drain a raised edge rooftop or patio or something.  You can adjust the cover so there is no hole for the birds to get through.  Use screws as you may want to remove it one day for a cleanout.  If the pipe draining into it from the deck is significant size, block it with mesh.  Bird can't get in, deck still drains, no problem.


Can I add a second light fixture to a 3 way switch?

If those three wires are the only ones in the junction box, then you're out of luck. The red wire and the black wire are travelers going to the other switch. The white wire appears to be connected to the black, common, screw so it's going to be a switched hot going to your light at the bottom of the stairs. There is no always hot or a neutral so adding a new light is a no go. Can you run wire from your existing light to the additional location?


What is simplest strategy to map circuits to breakers in the panel?

I tried one of the breaker finders, but it was worse than useless. So my solution was simple. I took a piece of paper and drew maps of every room in the house. On the map I located every outlet, light switch, etc. Then I turned off each breaker one at a time, and tested every outlet in a room, every switch. It helps to have a few items to plug into different outlets so you can test more than one outlet at a time.

For some boxes, you must be careful, as you may have two circuits going into the box in some cases. And some outlets may even be split in two, or some outlets are set up as switched outlets. Identify all of these things, taking careful notes on the map.

This all took little time, and perhaps even less time than it would have taken with a breaker finder. In the end, I have those maps, so whenever anything needs doing, I pull out the map and shut down the correct breaker easily before I do any work. Even so, I STILL check the box to test if the lines into it are dead. You can never be too careful with electricity.


Any way to eliminate smell from a vent stack

This will probably depend on your local code, but it can be done and is done. You have to cap the pipe appropriately, keep it a minimum distance away from windows and doors, and so on.

Here's an existing answer that may help:  https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/58659/24137

Another possible option is an AAV, or air-admittance valve. It only lets air into the pipe, not out. So it will allow air into the pipe to perform the same function as an outside vent pipe, while preventing gas pressure from the sewer from pushing smell/toxic fumes into the dwelling. The use of an AAV will very much depend on your local code and your inspector. The one time I did this, the inspector required me to run the AAV 4 feet higher than the line being vented.

AAV's can wear out, so you don't want one closed up inside a wall where you can't access (or even find) it. So where do you locate it? In some cases you can locate them under counter tops. That might work fine for a sink. But you're also talking about venting a bathtub or shower and a toilet. So you're talking about a pretty substantial vent pipe and a large AAV. Definitely talk to your local inspecter first if you consider going this route.


Replace MR16 Low Voltage Lights with Standard fixtures

Unfortunately the lighting layout is pretty bad so getting a new light would not help.

Your best option here is to actually redo the entire lighting layout and use the type of light you're happy with.  Have an electrician try to reuse the existing wires if possible and then get a professional painter to patch and paint.


I would check / change the distribution box next to the Air Handler and the duct size to that particular room.

Engineering wise it was probably sized for the room not for the fact that it has 3 walls to the outside!

Why over time has it become worse ?

Good question now to the second issue you have.
Your Fan in the Air handler is not running as fast as it used to, bad bearings, bad capacitor or some other failure. Your system could have a blockage of sorts as well.

I would change the duct size and also adjust the distribution box to move more air to that room.
Check the Fan, the Fan bearings / check or replace the Fan capacitor.


When someone says surface wiring, the first thought that seems to pop into almost everyone's head is something with all the panache of this:

This doesn't have to be.  What about building a cover over wiring which looks like a fireplace mantel or deluxe shelf?

It could serve multiple purposes depending on its depth:  bar, furniture-wall protector, decorative display, storage, art display, etc.


Hallway light with multiple switches doesn't always work

I'd start by turning off the power at the breaker, and verifying it's off using a non-contact voltage tester.  Remove the cover plate, and remove the screws holding the switch in place.  Gently pull the switch out of the box, being careful not to pull too hard.  Verify that all the wires are firmly attached, and are not broken or damaged.

If nothing looks amiss, replace the switch.  If this does not solve the problem, follow the same procedure with each of the other switches.  There should be two 3-way switches, and two 4-way switches.  Be sure to replace switches with an appropriate replacement.  If all the switches have been replaced, and the problem persists. Contact a local licensed Electrician.


Do I have my steps right for painting over stained trim?

Because "it barely had any glossy look to it" and you sanded it and cleaned it well means that it has been properly prepared! Good work.

Feel free to prime and paint it now, but do yourself a couple favors and buy good quality paint and professional grade brushes. I cannot stress how much a difference using quality applicators will make. Just build time into your schedule for thoroughly cleaning them and they will serve you well for years.


What can I do about my leaking washing machine faucet?

Sounds like the packing inside of the faucet needs to be replaced, assuming this is similar to an outdoor hose faucet.  After you shutoff the water (probably for the whole house if you don't have a separate shutoff for that line) you can open the valve up by unscrewing the nut that the valve stem goes through.  You can find new packing material at most home improvement stores that looks like a black string like material, typically right next to all the washers.  I'd also suggest replacing the washer at the same time.  And clean all the threads and apply fresh plumbers dope before screwing things back together.

If the installing plumber was nice, you can also unscrew the entire faucet from the pipe.  Then clean up the threads, put on some fresh pipe dope, and screw on a new faucet.  It will cost a few bucks more, but the process is much easier and the result is also nicer.  Unfortunately for me, my plumber decided to solder the threads making this task nearly impossible without opening up the wall to cut the pipes.

If you're not comfortable with soldering pipes should things go wrong, and you have to shutoff the water to the entire house, then consider having an appointment with a plumber already scheduled, that you can cancel without incurring any fees, before starting.


Approaches to level a concrete floor with shallow pipes

Is your idea to level off the center only?  I don't see that working out.  The slope at the outsides would be even worse.  I think you're assuming you normally walk right down the center of the hallway, but I don't think that's true;  if two people pass in the hallway, or you're carrying a bag or something in one hand, you will go down one side or the other.

Is it possible there's an error in the question?  If the slope is only 3mm per meter wouldn't it have to be a REALLY wide hallway to come to 3cm of rise from the outside to the center?


Trouble fitting plumbing under new vanity

Not sure how many bends (90's) your drain makes after the vanity, but if only one, you could stick a 90 on the drain coming from the floor of the vanity, and have it sloping up and point towards the back corner of the vanity. You could then run another 90 straight up with an AAV at the top of the pipe and have your trap tie into this vertical pipe significantly lower than the AAV, giving you a long enough pipe after the trap before a vertical drop. This may alleviate the gurgle noise but I do not know for sure. Your trap should be draining into a pipe that has a vent on it, so that when the water does a vertical drop it doesn't cause suction on the trap and pull water from the trap causing gases to escape from the sewer system into your house.


The usual way would be to cut the grooves with a table saw and a dado set, and cut the floating tenon on the table saw as well, but for small stuff, biscuit joinery works much the same way.  You could also cut the groove with a router table.  (It would be hard to cut the groove on the edge with a router without a router table unless it's a BIG piece of wood.)


What are my options to fix cold and drafty floors over a vented crawl space?

Cap the floor joists with rigid insulation. I'd first make sure the existing insulation is completely filling each joist bay and as expanded as possible (no edge curls, gaps nor compressed sections). Remember, the paper vapor barrier should be facing the living space you are heating or cooling. For a truly draft-free seal there is now a spray foam kit sold for the DIY home owner. Same 2 part spray foam that is used by commercial insulation installers, but in smaller amounts.


How to drill and waterproof a hole in cinder block for PVC drain?

Your instincts sound right. Be sure the drain tube is slanted downward as it exits. Also be sure the outside end of the tube will not be blocked (by leaves, snow, etc.) and that there is adequate drainage away from the outlet site. The ground should be pitched away from the wall (as in every foundation).

The likelihood of rebar or wiring within the cinderblock is very small. To be certain, go slowly and inspect with a light as the pressure changes in drilling. There are hollow sections in concrete and cinder blocks and you should be aiming for those, rather than the webbing between holes.

Sealing should be done with a weatherproof cualking on both inside and outside.


Cannot figure out wiring of most basic Honeywell thermostat (heater only)

That will be a fun little project.  I wouldn't get overly concerned about the voltage on those wires.  You're safest bet is to use a small relay to isolate that part of the circuit.  Choose a relay with contacts rated for 120V and 1A and you should be good to go.  This will allow you to be very flexible in your choice of coil voltage and how you drive the load with the Arduino (there are plenty of examples about how to do that).

If you really do want to measure voltage, make sure the thermostat is not requesting heat (set it all the way cold), and set your meter for AC first... if you do get a reading, you can test again with DC to see whether you have an AC or DC source.


What should I do about this Alpha HE CB33 Boiler pressure error condition?

You drained and re-pressurized the system.  This introduces air into the system.  Section 5.1 of the manual indicates a very clear sequence of steps that should be followed to re-pressurize the system, one very important one of which is bleeding (venting) the radiators, one by one, from lowest to highest.

This is done to get air out of the system that's trapped in the radiators.  Air is compressible, water is not, so having air in the lines will mess with pressure readings something nasty.

Bleed the system and check the neons again.


Structurally, maybe. The weight will be twice as much (assuming two rails) on the same wood at the notch due to the larger lumber. This could result in more sagging or even breakage.
Some other ideas...
Add posts and route around the tree
            ______
___________|      |
___________|      |
           |______|
              | |
            __|_|_
           |      |_____
           |      |_____
           |______|

Space out the one panel
            ______
___________|      |_
___________|      | | <-- offset spacer block
           |______| |
                  |_|________________________
                  |__________________________


Try applying a household bleach full strength in a small area you've sanded. Chlorine bleach will remove dye without harming the wood, but it won't remove pigments. It looks like you've sanded away most of those already, so this may be a good final step.

Two part bleaches are another option; they're stronger but will lighten the wood. That's usually not a problem if you're going to stain the piece, but it will tend to homogenize contrasting grains. The potential upside is that these bleaches can decolor some pigments, which is a lot less work than trying to get them out of the pores.

For the spaces the sander won't reach I'd try a chemical stripper along with a brass toothbrush. Painter's tools (5 in 1 tools) are also handy because they won't gouge easily. Plastic putty knives are even safer, if less effective.

It's not magic, but using a gel stain might help. They sit on top of the wood to prevent blotching, but that means they have a fair amount of pigment added. It's not going to give coverage like paint, but it may disguise small amounts of the previous finish.


How do I wire this kitchen fluorescent ceiling fixture?

The red wire is likely a switched hot -- That is, a wire connected to the hot side of the circuit, but interrupted by the switch.  You should test this with a non-contact voltage tester, and have a friend flip the switch.  If the wire is indeed a switched hot, the tester should ring in on one switch position. -- It should be wired to the black on the fixture.

That would make the gray/white wire neutral.   -- It should be wired to the white on the fixture.

The ground wire (bare copper) may need to be screwed directly to the junction box.

Keep in mind that a ground wire is (hopefully) never used to transport current.  That is, it only exists as an alternate path if something goes wrong.  If your light fixture is ceiling mounted, and there is no way anyone can touch it, then it's not entirely necessary.  In fact, if there is no ground to the junction box, it was installed at a time when grounds weren't required in such locations.  While not optimal, it is likely safe just to omit the ground altogether.

EDIT: In reply to comments.  If the originally wiring was to code at the time, then replacing the fixture does not require rewiring. (i.e. You can replace what was there as is).

But, you may need to run a ground for the ballast to work properly.  If the junction box is metal, it MAY be grounded via conduit or a ground wire screwed directly to the box.  If an electric meter reads 120v from red to the box itself, then the box is grounded.  (Be careful, or GET AN ELECTRICIAN to check, and run the ground for you.)


With a new pump it should be good but they ( the check valve) do get stuck sometimes. When this happens I will add a check valve just prior to the tank. Adding a valve is easier than pulling the pump. I did have a line from the pump to the tank that cracked, I tried the check valve and it did work for a while but the crack got so bad it would not pump more than 20 psi, at that point we pulled the pump and found the crack and replaced the line, hope that helps.


Can I install a USB-charger receptacle on a GFCI-protected circuit?

There is no fundamental reason why you should not be able use an integrated USB outlet on a GFCI circuit.  There should be no stray current going elsewhere that would trigger the GFCI, and the 5V USB output is isolated from the mains current anyway.


Bottom rail of wood panel door falling off

Hard to say whether it's a tenon or a few dowels, but assuming the wood is sound, you can pull the rail into place with a clamp (or a strap if you're low on 8' clamps) and put a couple of 8-10" screws through the stile into the rail. (Plenty of skinny long screws these days.) Predrill with a slightly smaller bit. Do a bit of a counterbore and you'll be able to hide the screw heads with filler.

And if you haven't, paint the top/bottom of the door to seal it.


What is the purpose of vent holes in stovepipe?

I always assumed this allows extra air to be drawn into the flue to insure oxidation of any CO to CO2. These holes would also by bringing in more air increase the back pressure and so lower the air draw at the burner into the optimum range.

I know the flue on the old gas tank water heaters was fitted with a "draft hood" designed to take in extra air at the top of the tank / bottom of the flue. It seems to be that if not designed correctly this opening could allow escape of combustion gasses out these holes, but I guess the openings generally work as intended.

This video asserts that the purpose of the vent hood is to prevent downdrafts from wind blowing over and into the vent on the roof from extinguishing the gas flame.

My 13-year-old Bosch tankless water heater (natural gas fired) does not have visible openings at the bottom of the flue. It is a "first generation" model with a standing pilot light and without a power vent.

My 26-year-old Carrier natural gas furnace likewise does not have these holes but it has a power vent on the exhaust flue.


How is a toilet flange attached to new flooring?

You should screw the flange through the floor, through the subfloor, and ideally into some kind of framing.  Use all holes.  I don't fully understand the reason for this, but all flange manufacturers are very clear that you need to screw the flange down.


Can I connect two load lines to a GFCI receptacle?

You can connect two loads to in the same box. I don't see any valid safety or utility issue here.

I suspect that Leviton advises against it because of ground potential differences in the multiple load lines. I would speculate that if the potential difference is significant enough it could cause a trip of the GFCI if it is grounded to the same box as the loads.

It's not uncommon for a weekend-warrior to ground load lines from the GFCI separately and cause a trip. This may erroneously lead the user to think there is a problem with the GCFI receptacle when, in fact, this is precisely the intended behavior.


screw identification:: 8-18 X 2.5 TR SC AB

8-18 is number 8 size, 18 threads/inch.  The letters probably describe finish and head type (screwdriver or nut or some such).  Any chance that same screw is used somewhere else in the stove assembly & you could find it there for comparison?


Can you use Metal Oil based paint on wood Shelving

It will work fine provided you don't apply it over latex products, which means you'll need an oil-based primer as well. (You probably do want to prime OSB.) It will also be more expensive than latex because your hardware store can only sell oil based by the quart. The solvents in it contribute to smog, vendors are required to verify that larger containers will be used on metal.

The limits on oil based have forced a lot of improvement in water based, oil isn't necessarily more durable across the board anymore. Specialty latexes for flooring are probably tougher than generic oil based. You can also find some one part epoxy paints that aren't too costly if you're willing to compromise on color. (They're mainly targeted for appliances and floors so the selection is limited.)


The side wire screws on my power terminal won't tighten?

There is a small plate or clamp that presses the conductor between itself and a contact plate. Make sure you conductor is not behind this plate instead of between the two clamp points. Also you may have backed this plate off of the screw and now it is floating and won't tighten up.

Hope this helps.


Does one need to be certified in order to do residential electrical work?

Home owners can do un "certified" electrical work on their own home in most states,. Unless you are the home owner, I'm quite sure you will find that in California, USA, just like most other states, you need to have a license to do electrical work for hire. Fixing minor things like replacing a light fixture or a broken switch does not fall into this category, however, adding circuits, doing anything in a panel, or upgrading services certainly does.
You would never be able to acquire any type of liability insurance as a contractor to do any kind of electrical work without a license, nor would you be able to pull a permit for a homeowner.
California has 5 different classifications of electrical license and each carries an apprenticeship: Voice/Data/Video Technician, Fire/Life/Safety Technician, Residential Electrician, General Electrician, and Electrical Contractor. Each one can take years to complete.
,
I would caution you sternly, basic knowledge of codes and theory is not a substitute for practical knowledge/experience and  proper guidance from a seasoned professional.
Working in the trade as a unlicensed contractor could cause you a lot of grief and possible legal problems as well. I would suggest contacting your Secretary of State's  department or website for licensing requirements.


How do I remove paint from plastic window frames?

Goof Off 2 is made for removing paint from plastics.


First of all, when you read about a "50W LED", it is certainly saying that it outputs the equivalent light of a 50W incandescent light (although that is often a exaggeration). That "50W" LED actually draws less than 10 watts. This means that it draws much less current and emits much less heat, both of which are the factors that typically limit the allowable light in a fixture.

You'd be able to replace a 50/100/150W 3-way with a lower wattage, even if staying with incandescent.

Second, unless the LED light is marked "dimmable", don't try to use it on a dimmer. You may damage the dimmer, light, or both. Even if the light is dimmable, some dimmers will not work well with a low load: a dimmer that works on a 100W light bulb may not work on an equivalent-light-output 13W LED. They make LED/CFL specific dimmers that may work better.

As for the 130V R40, that is probably a "long life" bulb. Running an incandescent at lower than rated voltage extends its life. Therefore, they make 130V bulbs to run longer on 120V. Just use LEDs rated for 120V.

As for your existing florescent lighting, I assume you're talking about the straight tube type. For a fixture that old, it's probably less efficient that newer florescent fixtures or LEDs but still much more efficient than incandescent. This is harder to replace with LEDs, just due to the area covered. There are LED tubes made to replace florescent tubes but they are still expensive and generally require re-wiring the fixture. These are most often used in commercial applications.


Suitable work surface and tolerances for casting concrete countertops

I could suggest that maybe you would want to carefully select your 3/4" plywood first to make sure the sheets are very flat to begin with. Then I would select multiple sheets of this flat material and glue then together to achieve a 1 1/2" or 2 1/4" thickness slab. This will give you the stiffness that you want.

The fact of the matter is that a single sheet of even 3/4" plywood (especially the lower cost sheathing grades) flex more than you think. A higher quality plywood with 8, 10 or 12 layers would be stiffer but even then it may still flex too much if just one sheet was used.

Stiffening with separate lumber like 2x4's may work but 2x6's on edge would be much better. However the stiffening would need to be made into a frame or matrix across the bottom so that the above plywood cannot flex between the stiffening members. Building that is possible but likely takes very straight lumber that is constructed into the frame using tolerances as good or better than you used for the molds.


Do I need to put mortar between wood and backerboard on a mixed wood/tile floor?

Normally when flooring changes you would use a proper transition. for example where your tile meets your other room, you will want to leave a small gap between the wood and the tile and then use a transition to cover the gap. I would guess if you have a wood floor in the middle of a tile floor you're going to have to leave an expansion gap all the way around, which will be a good place for crumbs and debris to collect.

You might be able to use silicone to fill the expansion gap, as it would be able to flex when the wood expands/contracts. I don't think I would put grout there, because it will most likely crack when the wood moves.

Here is an example using a transition.

And without a transition.


Yes, this can be done.

No, you don't have to worry about redundant breakers.

The bond between neutral and ground will have to be removed in the existing panel, but that shouldn't be a problem for the Electrician to do.


What height of insulation should I use between joists in an MDF floor?

Static air is what gives you the insulation.  If the air is able to move, then it doesn't insulate.  So you want the entire space to be filled with insulating material (which contains small air bubbles within the material) to get the maximum insulation effectiveness.


How do you avoid brush strokes in satin finish when painting around casings?

Putting on paint with a roller adds a texture to the paint as you may have noticed. This is controllable to some extent by the choice of roller used.

Cutting in around windows and ceiling corners almost always wants to be done before doing the roller work. (The professional painters I have seen painting at the place I work always do it that way too). After the cut in painting has dried then you do the roller work and allow the roller to come up as close to the corners as you can without getting too close. This allows the roller texture to cover over the cut in painting.

Using a pad painter or foam brush as recommended in another answer here has good merit toward reducing the brush marks. However a brush, especially one with a beveled angle edge, gives a lot more control over the painting in corners and along ceilings than you can get with a typical foam brush. I have found that planning for multiple coats of the cut in painting and the putting on each coat in a light manner will greatly reduce brush marks as opposed to getting over exuberant with the paint.


I'm not sure I understand your concern about putting it on a pedestal. Doesn't your plumbing need to match up with the inlet/outlet on the heater no matter how you mount the thing?
If you have fixed hard lines that you're trying to match up with, just build a pedestal to the proper height so its connections meet up with your existing lines, set the empty tank on it, use the included fasteners to also fasten it to the wall (overkill never hurts), then finish the plumbing connections.
If the lines need to run into the bottom of the tank (quite annoying, IMHO), build an open frame on which to set the heater without interfering with the location of the lines, then do as above.
If you've got flexible lines, then your pedestal height is mostly subject to how long a flexible line you've got/can get, and how high off the ground you want the tank. Again, follow installation from above.
Having something supporting the weight from below, whether wood, concrete block or steel seems to me to be the safest, surest way of doing it. Using the wall-mounting hardware provided by the manufacturer in addition simply adds to the security.


Unblock a drain after using too much baking soda

A weak acid is the way to deal with a plug of baking soda. It'll turn the plug material into CO2 and a soluble sodium salt of the acid.
It'll take quite a bit of acid to deal with a pound of bicarb though, 84 grams is 5.4 moles of the stuff.
Regular vinegar runs at 5% acid strength, that's abot 200 grams per gallon, 3.3 moles. So you'd need abot 1.6 gallons to deal with a pound of impacted bicarb. A single gallon might do the trick though, as all you need to do is destabilize the plug, at which point the rest will wash through.

Citric acid would be a nice choice. It's easy to get, but with a molecular mass of 192, and a price around $6 for 200 grams (~1 mol), it's too expensive.

Finally, if your plumbing will take it, and you're comfortable around strong acids, hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) would do the job. Muriatic can be had cheap at any good hardware store. Since it comes at a concentration of about 10 molar, it'll only take about 500 ml to take care of a pound of bicarb. At full strength, it'll foam and heat and boil while acting on the carbonate, so dilute with at least a gallon of water first to keep things manageable; and only try this approach if you're OK with working with around nasty, smelly, dangerous, irritating chemicals.

Trying to use lye, Drano or some other basic drain cleaner on this problem is a futile pursuit. Bicarb responds to acids, not bases.


A wall oven with a regular power cord, is it normal?

I think everyone commenting on this question agrees it is not the correct cable. I am assuming that what you call a label is actually the nameplate rating of the oven. The 120/240V rating means it operates on both voltages. 240V requires to phase conductors A & B and the 120V operates on a single phase and a neutral, and the you have to include a grounding conductor. So that would be 4 conductors two would be any color usually black and red, and one white for neutral and one either bare or green for ground. 3.8Kw means it needs at least 15.8A to operate or a 20A Breaker.

You don't state whether you are installing this oven at a new location or replacing it so I am assuming it is a new installation. If that is the case you will need a NEMA 14-20P for the cord cap and a 14-20R for the receptacle. You need to feed the oven from a 20A 2 pole breaker with minimum #12 conductors. If you are using NM the it would be a 12/3 cable with a ground.

For the record, I would never recommend to buy this type of appliance from ebay. Don't be surprised if you did all of this work and it doesn't work. You might take this to someone and have it tested before installing it.

Hope this helps and good luck.


Making a 4" hole in my foundation , will cutting the rebar cause the foundation to crack?

Cutting the re-bar so you can complete your 4 inch hole could cause your foundation to crack. I suspect that you already know that or else you would not be asking this question.

The problem here is that there is no way to provide any answer regarding assurance that cutting the re-bar would not be harmful to your foundation. There are just to many unknown variables to be able to make any prediction. Some of these unknowns are:

Are there other re-bars in the foundation
What part of the foundation, wall or footing
Type of construction of the foundation, cement blocks, poured concrete, stone or bricks
How thick the foundation is
Where the hole is located relative to edges, top, bottom or corners in the foundation
Hole location above or below grade
Past history of building structure foundation
Temperate zone location
Seismic zone conditions


Why does the live wire terminal say 450V?

Look at the tires on your car.   See the codes? One of them is a speed rating (such as 220 kph).   Obviously you don't need to drive that fast.  The tires will still work if you go slower.  That's just how fast the tires are rated for.

Same thing here.  The wires are rated for up to 450V.


How can I combine lightbulbs of different types and specifications to accurately simulate medium-intensity daylight in a domestic setting?

I have basic knowledge of what we did in a industrial plant to combat SAD so this answer covers what I learned when we changed the lighting to reduce the affects of SAD at our facility.

In our office areas we used 50% 6500k lighting and 50% 4500k lamps were matched with each ballast or 2 lamps at 6500k on 1 side and 2 at 4500k. Matching lamp type extends the life of the pair of lamps and reduced ballast problems.

In walkways we used 6500k lighting 100%

The reason for the difference was when walking the 6500k was closer to true daylight and the affect was similar to exercising out side even though just walking.
The reason for 50/50 split was that 6500k was hard on our eyes when reading so reducing the level and mixing with 4500 ended up being the best over all.

We also had clean room areas that they wanted to get similar results however 6500k has two much blue light and was a problem for photo lithography (the process of making different layers on wafers). Some rooms only have yellow light no blue at all. The 6000k light was the max we could use without affecting the processes and still get some advantage from the light.

The last thing we did was offer some very concentrated UV lights in the bathroom lounges. Designed for short exposure on the neck and shoulders.

The results after several years was an increase in productivity and a reduction in accidents and sick time taken. I was a manager and I saw all the reports I think it was 19% improvement with no other changes attributed except lighting.

We did not work with 2500k-4000k at the plant but occupational Health and Safety recommended that in our homes we use 3500k lamps in areas like bed rooms because the bright white / blue lights affect our Circadian Rhythms and low levels of yellow / orange lights are more natural and if dimmed tell the body it’s time for sleep, where 6500k says its day time get to work.

We were told that the blue / white lights on the back of the neck , shoulders and head was the most effective location for intense light therapy.
This site is in Corvallis Oregon and at one time the site had ~10k personal working on the site. Prior to the rollout of 6500k, 5000k, 5500k & 6000k lighting levels were also tested in different areas of the plant.

I think your plan to have the light to the rear as you mentioned is a good plan from what I had learned, I don’t know if the 3500k is really needed I remember that low levels did not affect the body in a negative way where sleeping was concerned but 6500k may prevent a person from sleeping up to an hour after exposure depending on the intensity.

I would get some additional references material on SAD as there is a ton of info on the web today. The lighting work I am describing was done 25years ago and they still use the same color frequency except in areas close to photo they went to all 4500k as geometry of the components got smaller the light had a larger affect.
Hope this helps.

I just remembered, we had to remove the plastic bezels in the lamps and installed reflective grids , the plastic was absorbing the blue light and we had to have some kind of covers so the reflective metal grids increased the light as measured at desk top level. I do not remember how many foot candles / lumens the target was.


Controlling separate heat and AC devices from a single thermostat

This shouldn't be a problem, as long as you get a thermostat that supports separate heating and cooling power supplies.  Any thermostat with both R, and Rc, and/or Rh should be able to handle what you want.
R   = power (usually 24 VAC).
Rh = power from heating system.
Rc = power from cooling system.
The purpose of the separate Rh and Rc terminals, is so that the heating and cooling systems can each have their own separate transformer.  In some cases there is only one transformer, so the Rc, Rh, and R are all connected together.  When separate heating and cooling systems are used, Rc should come from the cooling system, and Rh should come from the heating system. Y Would be the cool call back to the cooling system, and W would be the heat call back to the heating system.
Installation
Pull 18/4 or 16/4 cable from the thermostat to the heater, and the same cable from the thermostat to the cooling system.
Cooling

Connect the red wire to the R terminal at the cooling system, and the Rc terminal on the thermostat.
Connect the white wire to the Y terminal at the cooling system, and the Y terminal on the thermostat.
(optional) Connect the green wire to the G terminal at the cooling system, and the G terminal on the thermostat.
Leave the black or blue wire disconnected.

Heating

Connect the red wire to the R terminal at the cooling system, and the Rh terminal on the thermostat.
Connect the white wire to the W terminal at the cooling system, and the W terminal on the thermostat.
(optional) Connect the green wire to the G terminal at the cooling system, and the G terminal on the thermostat.
Leave the black or blue wire disconnected.


Bosch washing machine - replaced motor brushes, motor now "fizzes"

Unplug the machine , hopefully you did not fry the motor , let it cool down!
First remove the brushes, both of them and rotate the motor while looking at the armature, there should be even segments all the way around this is the commutator it should be a even chocolate brown in color. If any of the segments are missing the motor is toast.
All the segments there hopefully not two badly burned
you may need to seat the brushes it sounds like the cup to the brush was not correct (common) or they were installed 90 degrees out. So only the points were touching the com.
Large motors we seat the brushes with some emery around the com, small motors I will check the fit even the highest quality brush may have a different cup or diameter com. So the brush arcs, the other thing that can happen is the brush is to tight in the holder it should slide all the way in without pressure needed or once in it should fall out if pointed down, if snug a quick pass over some emery cloth or 400+ sandpaper will quickly reduce the size.
If the brush fit to the commutator is bad enough damage to the com can ruin the motor.
When you pull the brushes examine them for burns.
Arc marks in the center on each side is evidence of the brush in 90 out.
Burns on only 1 brush across the entire brush point to over sized not in contact.
If there are divots in the com that is a higher level of repair than you may the ability to do.
When brushed motors are running properly there should be a fine line of arcs at the edge of the brush that move or dance back and forth.
The big flash and the rcd tripping may point to a non repairable problem for DIY. But checking the com and brush seating is the first step.


How to quickly add soap to counter soap dispenser?

Get a plastic funnel and glue a drinking straw to the inside of the spout. This will let the air out while it fills.

Or, buy another under-sink bottle. You can fill that bottle quickly, then turn it upside down and put it in the hole. Just let it sit until empty.


How to wire new outlet? (US)4 sets of wires

Group all like wires together, so the 4 white, the 4 black, the 4 ground, each color separate from the others. Add a pigtail (short length of wire) of the same color to each group of wires, and wire nut them together. Connect the pigtail to the appropriate spot on the outlet


How to avoid drilling wires when boxing in

A trick I use when I'm unsure of any obstructions behind a wall is to drill a very small pilot hole that just makes it thru the wall surface. Then I take some sturdy metal wire, insulated electrical conductor or a coat hanger and bend one end into an arc. Now feed that bent end into the hole and twist the coat hanger around to see if it hits anything. You will easily be able to tell if there are any obstructions. I love this method because it will help inform you of any wiring, plumbing, studs or other obstructions. I made a quick image to help explain it better.


Lamps below the low contact voltage are not uncommon. I have installed many “fancy” systems that the conductors are not insulated and the lamp holders clip on to the wires . Some fixtures have fancy looking loops with the same exposed wiring. I am sure it scared the #%%^ out of you but it is not dangerous. I think it is 15vac and 30vdc


Was it ever acceptable in the past to use 20A breakers with 14 AWG wire?

The short answer is NO. 20 amp fuses and breakers have been the rule for 12 awg and 15 amp for 14 awg. This goes well prior to your home being wired. Some one may have swapped them out over the years to prevent tripping at an increased fire risk. Because they used 12awg for the run. It also have been done by a contractor with good reputation and not caught because of the 12 in the panel. Not all states use the NEC today and back then there were more not using the NEC.


Will new bottom plates in basement allow radon penetration?

If you have radon, it's already likely getting in--concrete is permeable. So adding a small nail hole isn't going to change anything. Also note that tapcons don't actually penetrate all the way through the slab.

If you have radon, you need to get a radon remediation system installed. This will put a hole in your slab so the radon has a place to go (and then it's vented out the roof).


If this is an ordinary glass lined steel gas fired water heater it is likely at the end of its reliable service life. Get a new tank installed.

If you want to try a simple fix you could cycle the temperature setting knob by twisting the temperature set knob on the gas valve down to the lowest temperature, then up to the highest temperature and see if the burner comes on. Then turn the temperature knob down to the "recommended" setting--there will be a mark. Maybe you could set the temperature a little above this and it would work.

There is a temperature sensor probe which protrudes into the tank behind the gas valve and senses the temperature of the water inside. The burner turns on and off according to the state of this sensor. If this is malfunctioning, it could lead to the burner failing to come on sometimes or shutting off prematurely before the water has reached the set point. I think this is part of the gas valve assembly and not separately repairable or replaceable. The entire gas valve assembly is probably replaced as a unit.

This is not a job for the ordinary DIYer. You could call a plumber to do this repair, but almost certainly the water heater should be replaced.

The anode rod has nothing to do with this. Anode rods are well known to get stuck in place if they have been in service for this length of time.


Framing design for small cathedral ceiling or A-Frame. Max Headroom

If it's not in the framing manual, what you do is go and talk to a structural engineer, they'll find a design that gets you the shape you need.

Achieving your goal may involve bespoke welded steel portals in addition to the engineer's fees. or may get away with a wooden frame with just steel reinforcing plates.


Copper plumbing component Identification

It's called a Square O Strap. The one in your picture is already "set" in place so ones bought separately will need to be soldered to the pipe.


There are three kinds of microwave ovens:

Countertop - rely on airflow typically on sides, back or bottom
Over-the-cooktop - typically include a fan underneath for cooktop ventilation and may use the same airflow path to also provide ventilation for the microwave oven
Wall Oven - like a typical wall oven, does not rely on any ventilation except in the front.

The over-the-cooktop ovens will probably not work for you. You would be paying for extra features (fan and possibly even a light underneath) and they are just not designed for this setup.

The countertop models may work well. You need to check the specifications. For example, I picked a GE 2.2 cubic foot model (essentially at random) and downloaded the installation manual. That referred to trim kits (as you mentioned) which are specifically designed for mounting specific models in a wall. That is exactly what you need. You are then relying on the manufacturer's design for proper ventilation. In the example I looked at it, it appears that the microwave has bottom vents and the trim kit raises the oven slightly so that it can ventilate properly despite being inside a wall or cabinet. Trim kits can be very expensive, so you may find that a "wall oven" will be cheaper.

The first wall microwave oven I looked at (Frigidaire, again essentially random selection) appears to be a countertop microwave oven packaged together with a trim kit - very similar to the GE in design, with vents on the bottom and the trim kit raising up the oven for proper ventilation.

There is a very wide range of prices (and this isn't a shopping site anyway), but just keep in mind that for safety's sake you must follow the manufacturer's guidelines for installation. Don't try to "roll your own" - not when dealing with appliances that can generate a lot of heat very quickly in a confined space.


how do i improve the temperature of my sons room?

What is your heating method? Most are somewhat adjustable, though this may not be obvious if you don't know what to look for (i.e. baseboard hot water generally has a flap that can be open, partially closed, or fully closed on the top section of the baseboard, which affects heat delivery.)

If you turn up the heat delivery in the room that is colder, and/or close it down in the room that is warmer, the room temperatures should become closer.

Not sure where you are going with the plastic - 6 mil plastic is not an effective insulator. If you have attic access and can't afford to "double the insulation" go buy what you can afford (6 mil plastic costs money - spend that money on insulation instead) and put it over his room, if that is feasible. If money is really tight you may be able to get help with insulation from a heating assistance program or by asking for leftover insulation (most people who do an insulation project end up with some) on craigslist.

Another alternative would be to swap rooms (so you take the colder one if you are concerned about your son being too cold) and throw on some extra blankets.

Edit: since you have forced air heat, partially close the vent or vents supplying the warmer room with the thermostat. If there are not built-in louvers to do this, place a book or board over part of the vent, or tape something over part of it if it's a wall vent. This should reduce the rate of heat delivery to that room, so the system wll run a little longer to heat it up to the setpoint on the thermostat, and by doing that, the other room will become warmer relative to the room with the thermostat. You could also have a HVAC professional adjust this deeper in the duct system - but in general we as end-users lacking certain tools and information the HVAC pro has should not start adjusting dampers (in the ducts) willy-nilly (it's fine to open any louvers (on the vent) in the son's room and close them in your room, or to block vents in your room - "opening up" a system too much can burn out the main fan motor (this is a counterintuitive but important point - blocking of vents reduces the load on the central fan - opening them up too much can overload it.)

In general, what you are describing is a system with poorly balanced heat delivery, which a good HVAC technician should be a be able to correct. But you can do a lot of it yourself by closing down or partially blocking vents in all the "too warm" rooms until the "too cold" rooms are warmer.


What is causing this window to open, but not close?

When you try to close it, the cam screw in the unit backs out. That is the drive that will open and close the window. It should not unscrew out. There is some sort of nut or locking device on the end of it to keep it from backing and allowing it to close the window. That locking device is obviously broken. You might be able to disassemble the unit and fix the broken part. I think your best bet is to replace the opening device. Many home stores carry replacements and if you can find a name on it, you can probably get it online. Good luck and stay safe.


Why must I hold the start button for my dryer to work?

Solved the problem.  Figured out that there was a potential between neutral and ground of 6v.  They weren't bonded at the box. Thanks for your help!


Do multiple ground bus bars need to be tied on subpanel?

Depends, are we dealing with NEC, or Harper (that's me)'s Law?

NEC: The screws attaching the ground bar to the panel are fine if they are 32 thread pitch or finer (e.g. 8-32, 10-32, etc.)

I would also run a ground wire with the thickest wire you have on hand.


Emergency my waste is leaking over my back patio

Your septic system is full or u have a blockage, when the water level lowers to a point it will allow gravity to work again this is your Gurge sound from two pipes full of water, one way to self test is to put food coloring in toilet flush watch for die in septic tank to see if u can see it usually do it in morning before using any water for a min then do ur normal routen check again. If water is above the drain coming in tank which is approx 6" below riser on septic tank bottom. Try these steps first


How should I retape an inside drywall corner when the wall is heavily textured?

If the tape on the wall is fine, one option is to cut the existing tape along the seam between the ceiling and the wall. Remove the half from the  ceiling as repair ceiling as needed.

Then, to finish, run a bead of caulk along the seam and paint.

Tape is always preferred, but I've used caulk for inside corners in lieu of tape many times and (knock on wood) it's worked just fine for me.


Yes, the pipe should be insulated.

During normal operation of the a/c system, the pipe may be below the dew point temperature. If air comes in contact with this cold pipe, moisture from the air will condense on the pipe.


You don't ever change the breakers to match the appliance !!
You can only change the breakers after you upgraded the wires to carry the needed load.
I have an induction cooktop, and I needed to upgrade the wires to a bigger gauge. Luckily, it was just 6 feet. Costly, but that's the only way.
If you change the breakers but not the wires, your wires will overheat and your house burn down. The insurance company will find this post :-).
More seriously, upgrade the wires first(1), then up the breakers, then enjoy your cooking.
Edit:
(1) More precisely, make sure they are the proper gauge. There's some subtlety there. The run-of-the-mill 8-gauge solid copper as sold in my area is good for 40amps. But I have no clue what type of wires you have in your area.


Most modern cabinets, the middle and higher end ones anyway, are made from solid wood stock. The face frames and doors are solid wood while the carcass walls are plywood or veneer. If they are left un-sealed the raw wood will eventually degrade in a moist environment and become smudged with grime and oils.  Either way starts with sanding. Progress to a finer final grit and wipe down with a tack cloth or a rag dampened in mineral spirits. Stain if desired and let stand 12-24 hours.   Now for the seal coat which protects the wood. You have a few choices, ranging from a lacquer sealer to a polyurethane.  Go with a urethane sealer that is brushed on and apply 3-4 coats letting each dry and sanding between each application. For a bathroom you might consider a marine grade varnish which better protects against moisture.


RG6 vs RG11 - conductor size and connections

You could use better connectors - just had a quick look and found (there are probably others) Belden's (no affiliation) FS11 F-Conn for RG11, which uses a pin that connects to the central wire, so that the pin is the expected/standard size for F-connectors. No cramming the wrong size thing in...

Mind you, for 40 feet at typical Over The Air Broadcast Frequencies there should be minimal difference between RG11 & RG6 - The highest channels in UHF should be where the most difference is, and for 50 feet of cable there should only be about 0.4 dB difference between them, while at VHF frequencies 50 feet should be 0.25 - 0.3 dB - not clear from your question what the overall length is - if it's 100 feet rather than 40 feet, double those numbers, but still a small difference at broadcast frequencies (54-806 MHz) unless you are actually dealing in several hundred feet, or higher frequencies not seen in broadcast TV but common in satellite TV.


p-trap installation by newbie: cement cure time

It's probably fine. ABS cement hardens in seconds -- probably in less than 20 seconds the joint would be locked up enough that it would not be easily moved by hand.
A joint won't be cured enough to withstand any meaningful amount of water pressure that fast -- a plumber would probably get an unhappy surprise if he cemented test plugs or fittings into place and immediately proceeded to fill a 20-30 foot tall column of water to test a new home's multi-story drain system.
In your case though the pressure would not have exceeded about 1 inch water column. If it didn't leak in your first test, go ahead and test it again. If it continues to not leak that's a good sign that it worked out well enough.


UK wiring colours

        Live    Neutral
        ----    -------
 Old    Red     Black
 New    Brown   Blue

Appliance leads changed colours first, this was so that appliances across the EU all conform to the same colour code. Aiding trade etc.

Later on, in-wall fixed wiring colours were changed. I guess this was deemed less urgent because houses don't get moved from country to country.

Anyway that might explain why you have a mix of colours. The in-wall wiring uses the older colours. The appliance (fan) wiring uses new colours.

  I am trying to wire a plug into a 6" inline fan for our bathroom

The way you phrase this makes me unsure what exactly you are doing.

If this fan is inline in the sense of part-way along an air duct, it should be wired in permanently and not using any kind of plug (as in wall plug that plugs into a wall socket)

  why is red and brown connected off like that?

Live supply (red) to live load (brown). Probably.

It is unusual for that to be on a separate connector like that, which suggests something odd may be going on.

Normally there is the typical white-plastic screw-down connector block as shown at the bottom of your photo with all the supply connections on one side and all the appliance connections on the opposite side.

What you have is non-standard (but might still be OK and safe - its just hard to tell from the photo alone)

  Which one is neutral?

Should be blue (appliance side) and black (supply side).

  I am assuming I can leave off the earth

It isn't needed for double-insulated appliances (like your fan) but you should terminate it somewhere so that a future householder is able to safely connect a different type of fan that does require an earth.

  I do not recognise the colours used

Apart from the above explanation, you should refer to the manufacturers instructions. Many bathroom fans operate when the bathroom light is switched on and continue to run after the bathroom light is switched off. To be able to do this they need the following connections

neutral
permanent live
switched live
(earth unless double insulated)

The electricians who put wiring into walls often use standard cabling for the run to and from the light switch etc which can mean that a blue cable acts as a switched-live return from the switch. This should be marked with red tape (or really brown tape nowadays) to indicate it is a switched-live not a neutral.

If in doubt, you'll need a suitable Cat-II (or greater) rated voltage-test device and spend some time confirming what wires do what.

From your comments, what you have are

white sleeved cable

red insulated wire   (normally indicates live)
black insulated wire (normally indicates neutral)

black sleeved cable

brown insulated wire (normally indicates live)
blue insulated wire  (normally indicates neutral)
black insulated wire (not normally used in homes)

The last combination is used on three-phase industrial supplies that are rarely seen in UK homes. In that case brown is phase 1 and black is phase 2 (phase 3 would be light-gray). It is exceedingly unlikely that a domestic bathroom fan would use a multiple phase power supply.

If I didn't have instructions for the fan, I'd try to obtain some from the supplier or manufacturer (or intertubes). Failing that I'd break out the suitably rated test tools and try to work it out the hard way.


This might sound crazy but what I have been seeing used in a residential and commercial setting of remodeling, is Bondo.

I have seen it come with some really great results.

I have seen it used on everything from wood to metals.

Simply apply it, Let it dry and sand it smooth.


Ideas to hide pipe between bathtub and drain

Sometimes a step is put along the side of a tub to assist in entry. You could form one that straddles and covers the pipe and half the floor drain. Just make it removable (screws are OK if accessible) so that you can access the drain if needed.


Likely a false economy. You might spend $200 or more on tools for the job...router bits are not cheap, and neither is a good router (though the cost of bits soon exceeds the cost of the router, be it good or cheap.)

My ballpark guess on "how that was done" (or could, most inexpensively, be done) is 5 saw cuts on a tablesaw and then cutting 3 edges with a roundover bit in a router. Not the quickest way, but likely the cheapest way to make a small amount. For 2 feet, you could probably do all the roundovers with sandpaper, preferably with a radius block, but probably freehand could work well-enough.


How do I unclog a clogged swimming pool vacuum?

You'll need an auger to clear the clog in the pipes:

Loosen the clamp at the metal end and begin inserting the snake (metal coily wire) into the pipe until you hit the blockage (or get stuck in a corner).

Tighten the clamp and turn the plastic handle to spin the snake.  That will help penetrate the blockage (or realign the snake to get it around the corner).

Extract the snake, clean the end off removing the gunk it collects, and repeat until you stop getting more gunk and the water flows through the pipes again.


Are this subpanel's neutral and ground connected?

It is wrong. The neutral and ground (from the supply feed) are connected and that's wrong. But what's worse is it doesn't appear to be bonded to the panel.  That means the grounds have no path back to the main panel.   You need to move the ground from the feed (the twisted silver wire) to one of the ground bars attached to the panel (don't bond the neutral to the panel ground). That would fix the worst of the mistakes here.  I also don't see any noalox compound on the aluminum wires, but it may be there, just not visible. Without noalox, Aluminum wires are subject to corrosion, which leads to bad connections, which leads to over-heating.
If you decide to fix this before replacing the panel, be sure to turn off power to it at the breaker in your main panel.


Should I be worried, or is this a cosmetic issue? floor in 1935 apt building

There are already so many elements to the original baseboards I think adding another one to the bottom, painted white, to cover the gap will look just fine. It will look different to the other walls but only minimally. fill the void with insulation first and lightly pin the new trim to the baseboard, not the floor.

It's a case of you'll know it's there, but it's unlikely anyone else would notice unless they have a particularly keen architectural eye!

My only caveat is to keep an eye on the problem just in case it is the outer wall bowing outwards. Don't forget the floor joists probably run into the wall so it doesn't want to be bowing outwards too much.


Why does the pressure, attached to a submersible well, keep increasing?

Per your other thread, it sounds like you're measuring the pressure in the tank's bladder. If this is the case: don't. In fact, if you're releasing pressure to get it to 28, you've actually screwed up the calibration of your tank, your pump is likely going to be cycling faster than it should be, which will wear out the pump faster as well as cause fluctuations in the water pressuring in your house.

The tank pressure is irrelevant while the system is running. The valve at the top of the tank is for setting the pre-charge pressure.

The pressure you should care about is on the gauge at the base of your tank: this is the water pressuring going to your house.

To set up the pre-charge correctly for a 40-60 PSI range:

Turn off the power to the pump, then open a tap until all the water drains out (so your system pressure is 0).
Via the valve on top of your tank, set the pre-charge pressure in the tank to whatever the manufacturer recommends: typically 4 PSI below the low pressure limit (so, 36 PSI).

Now you can adjust your pressure switch, if needed:

Turn off the valve to the rest of the house, and turn the pump back on. Your goal is for it to stop at 60 PSI.
If it goes higher/lower, adjust the big nut until it shuts off at 60.
You may have to open the valve to release pressure so the pump kicks in again, and repeat several times.
Now open the valve to the house (run some water). The pump should turn on at 50. If not, adjust the small nut until it does.

Keep in mind to adjust the pressure switch, the big nut (green arrow) adjusts the overall pressure, while the little nut (red arrow) adjusts the range between the on and off values.


How to connect lamp to ceiling wiring (EU)?

The wires for the light fixture get inserted under the screws directly opposing the existing wires.

Brown is your "hot" wire. The energized conductor. Blue is your common wire. The screwshell of your light fixture should connect to the blue and the center tab of the screwshell gets connected to the brown. Leave the two brown wires connected together.


What set of bits is compatible with a Bosch Uneo (SDS-Quick)?

One solution is to buy an adapter and a large set of normal drills.
Another solution is to look for hex-shank drill sets

Bosch Uneo
Adapter

Bosch 2608572075 1/4" 1-10mm Keyless Chuck Adaptor (Suitable for UNEO)
Suitable for use in a cordless screwdriver and drills with forward / reverse function. Can also be used with the Bosch UNEO drill to allow the use of standard shank drill bits.
Mount : 1/4"
Capacity : 1mm - 10mm

This seems to be available from a variety of retailers.
Hex-drive
Bosch's list of compatible accessories for the Uneo includes their 43-piece X-Line drill set which all have standard hex-drive shanks. This suggests you could use any hex-drive drill set from any manufacturer.

Ikea FIXA
I think Ikea's FIXA version of the Uneo comes with such an adapter.


What do I need to supply electricity to my shed 150' from my house?

Per the calculator here[http://www.electrician2.com/calculators/vd_calculator.html], 150 feet at 100 amps on 10Ga copper would be 15.5% drop - not the least surprising given that 10Ga is 30 amps in normal use and that's a long run.

3AWG copper is 3.1% drop - not quite kosher, but pretty close.
2AWG copper gets it down to 2.4%
3AWG aluminum is 5% drop.
Aluminum has to be 1/0 (0) gauge to get below 3% drop (2.5%).

1" schedule 40 Conduit is not adequate to run a service with any of the sizes that will actually carry that load. I'd suggest 2" schedule 80 so that you could run it on aluminum wires, since they will cost a good deal less than copper, even at the larger size, in general. Schedule 80 only costs a little more than schedule 40, and is thicker/more robust. Since you already have it, run the 1" conduit in the same trench and you can use it for network, telephone, intercom or the like.

In a quick look at my local prices from vendors that publish prices...(there are often better prices from other vendors, but the relationship between Cu & Al is less variable.)

adequate 2Ga Cu $1.79/ft
not quite adequate 3Ga Cu $1.39/ft
overkill 2/0 Al $0.98/ft
and adequate 1/0 Al $0.82/ft

If you buy a separate ground wire, and upsize the conduit to fit it, there's also a 4/0 4/0 2/0 aluminum wire (twisted together, but not jacketed) for $2.09/ft, or less than 3 individual 1/0 wires. A better supplier might have a similar product with all 4 wires at a similarly attractive price. Depending on insulation type, that will still fit in a 2" conduit (or need 2-1/2 for other insulation types.)

None of this assesses whether your service into the building will carry the additional load, either. You may need to upgrade that before proceeding.

Both compressors (moreso) and tablesaws are hard to start - and both benefit from being run as 240V loads if possible, since they'll draw less current that way.