How can I reinforce a piece of furniture to put an aquarium on it?

This sounds like a bad plan. 550 pounds (or more, likely) is just way too much weight to try to hack something together. Even if you put a support in the middle, then you need to make sure it's  perfectly balanced or you're going to crack the aquarium at the pivot point — the glass tank is going to be very unforgiving of an uneven surface.

Plus, think of the enormous problem if your tank does crack or fall over. 50 gallons of water could cause a huge amount of damage. Make sure your homeowner's policy includes flood coverage that would pay for this if you do try it!

Just get a stand that's build to hold an aquarium. It will probably be cheaper than buying a massive piece of tempered glass.

(Although I strongly discourage this idea, if you are committed I would suggest that you carefully test your contraption. Get a bunch of bricks, bags of gravel, etc. that weigh a little more than you're expecting. E.g. if you think the tank will end up being 600 lbs all told, gather up 800 lbs of materials and stack it in the tank. Leave it for a few days. Jump on the floor. Throw a pillow at it. Knock on the glass. Lean on the cabinet. If it's going to collapse, you want to find out before you have all the water and fish in there.)


The fact that you have to toggle the switch to get it going again leads me to believe you've got a bad switch or maybe it's wired by utilizing the backstabs.

Try switching the light and fan switch to see if the problem "moves" to the lights or stays with the fan. Don't disconnect anything until you've taken a few pictures for reference. Also, turn off the breaker before you do anything.


What are these male sockets called, and what are they used for?

Hex shank to square drive adapter
This bit is a hex shank to square drive adapter, which allows you to use square drive bits with a drill/driver.

Hex shank socket
The second set of tools is hard to tell for sure what it is. If the sliver bit at the bottom has a hexagonal cutout in it, then they are hex shank sockets. If that's what they are, they allow you to drive hex bolts/nuts using a drill/driver.
Square drive hex (allen) key
If the silver bit at the bottom of the second set of bits is square, then they are square drive hex (allen) keys. In this case, they allow you to drive hex/allen bolts using a square drive tool.

Hex shank sockets
These are defiantly hex shank sockets. They have a hexagonal shank, and a hexagonal hole at the other end. They allow you to drive nuts/bolts using a drill/driver.

Flexible (Jointed) sockets
These appear to be flexible (jointed) sockets. They should have a square hole at one end, and a hexagonal hole at the other. They allow you to drive nuts/bots with a square drive tool.


Do i need to mud the top of horizontally mounted drywall if i am hiding the seam with quarterround?

If you don't mud the top and bottom, the bevelled edge will show up. At the bottom the baseboard would be at a slight angle and could screw up your mitered angles. The bevelled edge will definitely show up at the top with only quarter round mounted up there. Mounting the quarter round up there might be harder than you think.


Can I connect unused ceiling fan wire with neutral?

It was common to wire "switch loops" where a black and white wire were run between a switch and a light, and the white (neutral) wire would actually be used as a hot.  When this was done, the white wire would be marked with black tape on both ends to say "this wire is really doing the job of a black wire".  (wire colors are assuming common US conventions).

What you are proposing is doing something similar, but using a black wire as a neutral.  This will work, but according to another question you can't repurpose a black wire as a neutral because code requires a neutral to be a certain color over the entire length of the wire.

So, electrically, it will work, but it seems to be an illegal modification.


How can I hang pots on my brick wall with the least amount of drilling?

you definitely don't want to drill into the brick. Drilling into the mortar isn't too bad though, and easily repairable if ever desired.

I've used Tapcons for anchoring into mortar. They work well:

The box will say what size masonry drill bit you need to pre-drill, then you just screw them in with your driver like any screw. I'd suggest longer is better (though no longer than the width of the brick, as that may be as thick as the brick is.)

Also, make sure this brick you are drilling into isn't a chimney. If it is, make sure it's either not in use, or has a metal flu inside (and don't puncture the flu)

Your idea of installing a wood cross-member into the brick and then hang something from there isn't a bad idea.  I'd suggest 3 screws, then perhaps attach peg board to that, hanging the pots from peg board ala Julia Child


What's the standard way to mount wooden board to concrete wall?

Anchors
Concrete screws are fine, but they don't have great pullout strength in concrete block. If properly installed in poured concrete they're quite strong.

If you happen to have a block wall I'd use an expanding anchor of some sort. Plastic plugs, togglers, and expanding sleeves would all be appropriate.

Finally, size and quantity are important. I wouldn't use 1-1/2" #8 screws to mount 3/4" plywood, for example. 2" x 3/16" would be more suitable, and with a quantity of at least 6, with more depending on your sheet size and load. Post more details in your question for a more specific recommendation.

Boards
I would use high-quality plywood (BC grade or better) of at least 5/8" thickness. Anything less won't hold enough of a screw's threads for any significant load. 3/4" plywood is ideal, and doubled would be excellent.

3/4" OSB would be ok, but it tends to release "strands" when screws are run in, resulting in a rougher surface. It is plenty strong, though, and is often more dimensionally stable than plywood.

Don't use particle board or MDF as moisture is likely to be present, if only in small amounts. Neither is great for holding screws anyway.

Moisture Management
If you have regular moisture on your wall, seal it first with a suitable paint-like coating, or apply 4 mil or heavier poly sheeting behind the board. This will reduce mold and rot.


Tidy up walls when moving out of a rented room

You can seal the raw drywall facing paper with wall primer, then skim it with joint compound or spackle using a taping knife. Let it dry and lightly sand it gently with a block.

To fix the paint you'll probably need to paint entire walls. It's unlikely that you'll get a match of color and sheen that won't be noticeable, even if you feather and blend it well. You can probably find a suitable match using the hundreds of paint chips available at most paint stores. Bring a few home and compare in the room's natural light. Slight changes in color are often undetectable at corners, where the light dramatically changes the hue anyway.


How should I connect my new light switches?

What you describe is very typical in cases where power comes into the switch box (as opposed to the light box). The hot leg is switched.

image source

Simply move the blacks to your new switch in either terminal configuration. Be sure to use clean, solid loops and wrap them clockwise. Leave the whites alone.


How do I clean up white dust and spots "blooming" on rubber?

One of the most common solutions to rubber bloom (in pretty much any setting) is an interior car cleaner like "Armor All" (not an endorsement, just an example). This is a durable oil-based product that is less volatile and less likely to be removed by friction or otherwise.

I typically only have to re-treat the weather stripping in my car 1-2 times per year with a product like this, and it keeps them from cracking, blooming and otherwise deteriorating as fast as they might otherwise.


Why am I only getting 130 volts at some power sockets?

Does anyone have an idea why on the same circuit 4 boxes have 240V and 3 boxes have only 120V?

It may be there is a loose/corroded/burned connection in the 4th or 5th circuit box.

It may be you are using a voltage detector that has LED indicators for specific voltages, and does not make an exact measurement.

I would turn off the circuit breaker for that circuit, lock it out (to prevent other people turning it on), verify that nothing is live, verify again, then check resistance from live on 4th socket to live on 5th socket using a good quality Cat-II or better meter.


Garage door lights: which cfl bulbs work?

How do I detect which bulbs will play well with my garage door opener remote?  You find out which radio frequency your remote uses, tune a radio to that frequency, turn on a candidate bulb, and listen.

How do I detect this pre-purchase, say from a product listing on Home Depot's website?  You don't.  The needs of your garage door opener are poorly documented, and the RF emission band diagrams of random bulbs are not documented at all.  Or even consistent enough to document! Nevermind manufacturing inconstencies, nothing keeps an LED marketer from changing internal parts and completely changing the RF frequencies it emits.

Now, about this:

  I discovered yesterday that led bulbs cause RF interference and disrupt the use garage door remotes

That's a blanket statement, and it's not true. Here is what is true:

High frequency electronic devices tend to emit radio frequency interference on the same frequencies, unless shielded.   If on the same frequency as your remote, it will drown out the weak remote signal.
CFLs, by nature of their design, must generate high frequency signal which is not practical to shield because it must reach the tube.  That frequency does not need to be high enough to interfere with garage doors, but that's cheaper.
LEDs natively want 3 volts DC, so no frequency at all. The problem is voltage conversion, most cheaply done by using a high-frequency chopper circuit, the higher the cheaper. This can be  shielded, not for free.
For the cheapest bottom-shelf consumer bulbs of both types, it's a game of pennies.  A shortcut that cuts manufacturing costs by 0.1 cent per unit will tend to be taken.
The FCC calls for shielding as part of its Part 15 certification, but this may not be enough to prevent interference. Some cheaper manufacturers fake this certification.

The answer is to redline CFLs immediately, and look for LEDs that have been designed with care to not create this high frequency interference. These will be consciously designed products, and will not benefit from the extreme "optimizing for cheapness" that our Chinese, um, allies are so fond of putting in products marketed to us.


Can I rely on a simple gas valve to shut off the gas?

That should do the trick for a start. You will smell gas when you disassemble the pipe and should dissipate. On the jobsite, when this is done, the longer pipe section is removed from the valve on the fed side (fireplace side) of the pipe and capped with a threaded plug with the proper tape sealant or pipe dope approved for gas fittings. A nipple and cap can be used too, instead of a plug. Its a variation of the same thing.

Do be careful on this, this should go without saying, you are dealing with some really explosive stuff here.


Is it ok to turn off fridge for 2 hours in the evening?

Should be OK food-safety wise, as the food should remain cold for about 4 hours according to the US FDA:

  The refrigerator will keep food cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened.
  A full freezer will keep the temperature for approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it is half full) if the door remains closed.

If you open the door a lot, or the insulation / seals are bad, or the temp starts out high to begin with, you may be tempting fate with food spoilage.


You'd probably need a double check valve like a sprinkler system to put a garden hose connection underground.

For the yard hydrant:
Your link says "Frost Proof" which is different than "Freeze resistant".  Further your referenced code says " that incorporate a stop and waste feature that drains into the ground".  The description for the yard hydrant you have linked says "Unlike conventional hydrants which drain the water into the ground, these use a reservoir below the frost line to contain the water".

I'd argue that either point makes this portion of the code inapplicable but certainly the 2nd portion where it doesn't drain into the ground at all.


There are basically two options:
New Breaker
This is the simplest option, though probably not the least expensive. And may not even be possible, depending on the breaker panel. Replace the existing 20A double breaker with a GFCI 20A double breaker. If you can do that, then the wiring is easy:

Blacks together
Red to hot on new (ordinary) duplex receptacle
Whites (neutral) together and with a pigtail to neutral on new receptacle

GFCI Receptacle
This gets a little tricky, and also depends on your dishwasher circuit not required to be on a GFCI circuit. According to this page of code changes this is required as of the 2014 NEC. Which according to this page of NEC adoption by state means pretty much everywhere except Kansas and Indiana. There may be specific exemptions in some areas as well. So if it is allowed:

Blacks together
Red to hot line on new GFCI duplex receptacle
Whites (neutral) together and with a pigtail to neutral line on new receptacle
Load side of new receptacle is not used at all.

The reason you can't use the load side, which would provide GFCI protection for the dishwasher, is that you can't have kitchen countertop receptacles shared with hardwired appliances (with some very limited exceptions).
If you could put in a two-gang box then there would be a compliant with newer code solution:

GFCI receptacle on one hot
GFCI dead front on the other hot, wired to the dishwasher

GFCI devices have to be accessible (so you can reset them), so you can't just bury it behind the dishwasher.


What are steps to take to resolve a frequently clogging toilet?

Often it is an issue of some hard item (like a tooth brush or a comb) stuck at the floor flange, especially if someone used one of the self centering funnel type of wax ring https://amzn.to/2ImIVAd rather than a bare ring https://amzn.to/2Ixn8Wo .


Should I use hammer mode or the clutch for a garden auger drill attachment?

A hammer drill just adds vibration (up and down) to the rotation, which for concrete drills that have a hardened tungsten tip, makes them drill effectively through concrete (and stone for that matter). It would do nothing for an auger.


Interpretation of Article 250 Part III to be a little hard to keep up with, and it seems like the members of the NFPA take great pleasure in tweaking it in every edition.
Generally the paragraph that allows maximum #6 copper to "Rod, Pipe, or Plate" electrodes is not interpreted to include water pipe, so you would need #4 copper, but not necessarily solid.
Table 250.66 (or 250.104 if just a metal piping bonding jumper) references size of feeder to the service, which you would expect a 200A service to be fed by 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum for the GEC. The Table shows #4 copper or #2 aluminum, 250.62 allows stranded or solid.
A metal underground water pipe also requires a supplemental electrode.
I don't have a copy of or even know what edition of the NEC was adopted locally for your location for 1997, and don't know what exceptions may have been locally enforced.


Inverter switches off powering as soon its unplugged from mains

Current flows in loops.  That is basic "electrical 101".  All current 'comes out' the hot wire, and 'flows back' via the neutral wire.
A switch only interrupts the hot wire.  That is enough to break the loop and make the load shut off.
A plug interrupts hot and neutral and safety earthing, because, obviously, it's a plug.
So if you think about it, unplugging interrupts neutral.  Switching does not.  It's all about the neutral.
And more specifically, it's all about illegal and dangerous mess that was made when this was hooked up initially.

On the inverter, only the hot wire was connected through back to the panel.  The neutral was never connected or switched, and so neutral is forced to go backwards through the system via the plug.  This is bad: the hot and neutral wires need to stay together for a variety of reasons.
My guess is this was done so the panel could be "back-fed" so the whole house could be powered (on 650VA inverter that can barely provide 3 amps, lol).  I will guess that this wasn't done with a proper interlock.

I suspect this was done because 1-pole switches (which do not switch neutral) are cheaper than 2-pole switches (which do).


I don't see a problem with this.  Use PT wood treated for continuous underground use.  (Wood foundation treatment)  You're using heavy timbers to the ground forces trying to squeeze in won't be an issue.  You may get minor amounts of water squeezing between the boards, but with reasonable bottom drainage this isn't aproblem.

The reason the galvanized corrugated wells are used are a matter of cost.  They are cheap, and quick to put in.

Be sure that your well goes down below the window, then fill back with fast draining rock to a couple inches below the window sill.

Also try to anticipate things going wrong.  A well can act as a funnel, moving water from the yard into the the house.  Mis-set sprinklers, clogged eavestrough, snow sliding off a metal roof....

I have seen people who propped old windows over the window well.  This still allowed it to be used as an egress, but prevented most of the misshaps.  One person did a tiny shade garden in the window well.  It would get trampled in an emergency exit, but what the heck?


What could cause water to not go into the gutters?

Sounds like either the gutters aren't secured tight enough, or you don't have a drip-edge flashing between the roof and gutter. The drip edge deflects water out and away from the house trim and into the gutter. You install it under the shingles, pulled out slightly from the trim, and secured with roofing cement.


Disconnecting a frozen water hose from a spigot!

Fill a bucket or pitcher with hot tap water and pour it slowly over the connection. It should come apart almost immediately, but you'll probably need to repeat the process to completely thaw the spigot. Run some water through it to be sure, then close it and let it drain properly.


Mounting a monitor arms clamp on an IKEA desk, what can I use to distribute the load?

I used two 7 by 7 inch piece of wood (1 top, 1 bottom ) and this works fine


You could try a tile edge nosing.

Something like :

You'd tile over the top part, and the lower part would wrap around the drywall at the corner:


3-way switch to control 2 fans independently

So you'll have a single pole double throw switch controlling a ceiling fan in the up position and a switched outlet in the down position. This will work but keep in mind that when the ceiling fan is on and the outlet off, you're timer in the outlet will lose it's setting. You'll also need that outlet to be GFCI protected. You might consider a switch with the "center off" position.


How can I isolate an indoor water pipe to prevent freezing?

I agree with the comment in that its surprising the copper pipe would conduct enough heat to freeze the downstream pipe, are you sure there's not a draft or something like that?

Your idea to isolate the pipe seems relatively sound though.  You would likely want to use PEX instead of PVC. PEX normally requires a special tool to crimp the connectors, so I would recommend using a SharkBite push-in coupling fitting to connect the PEX to the copper and vise versa as these don't require any special tools to install.

From http://www.sharkbite.com/product/couplings/

  SharkBite is the Push-Fit connection system that is really taking hold. It’s the easiest way to join copper, CPVC or PEX pipe in any combination with no soldering, clamps, unions or glue. Just insert the pipe and the stainless steel teeth bite down and grip tight, while a specially formulated O-ring compresses to create a perfect seal.

I don't have any affiliation with SharkBite, they are just a well known brand of push-in fittings.  Your local store might have other brands too


Crack in paint seems to be slowly getting longer

Unfortunately many of the homes built in the 80s and 90s have features such as vaulted ceilings and floating walls, and they usually employed engineered truss systems. Those trusses move seasonally due to temperature and moisture changes, and builders hadn't yet worked out how to handle that movement.
In later years devices like isolation channel and expansion joints were installed, which allowed for such movement without drywall damage. Your house (and mine) lack these preventative measures, so we get cracks that come and go.
You have a couple choices, if this in fact the problem you face.

Ignore it.
Rub some paintable caulk into the cracks, then paint. Press firmly and don't leave caulk on the surface to create ridges or seam lines. A lightly damp cloth can help. Such caulk shrinks as it dries, so you may have to hit it twice.
Re-tape those areas with fiberglass mesh. Obviously this requires re-texturing and full-wall painting. Stronger setting-type joint compound (like EasySand 90) for the initial tape coat would be a good idea. Pre-mixed mud is easier to finish with.

All that said, I'm speculating. If you have reason to think you're in a termite area or have larger foundation issues, bring in an expert to look with real eyes.


That's insect damage from when the tree was still in the forest. It's not really a problem now since the board has been cooked in a kiln. Any insects have leave the vicinity or been destroyed by heat. A few such boards are common with any unit of lumber, but if you see more than maybe 5% like that I'd be questioning whether your builder is buying from a reputable source.
That said, boards like that tend to be very soft and shouldn't be used in critical locations. They include wood that was probably dead at the time of harvest and is partially decomposed. For a common stud, not a concern. For a header or other specialty bit, it's to be avoided.


Why are progressively larger drywall knives used after each mudding pass?

You're spreading the mud out over a progressively larger area so that instead of a small but sharp bump (or dip) in the middle of the joint, you have a much more gradual bump (or dip).  That way, any irregularities in the surface are much less noticeable and can be easily masked by texturing.


Are smaller or larger pavers better for covering a concrete patio?

If there isn't a lot of seasonal movement, it won't matter. I'd layer a small amount of sand as a pad and leveler (plus landscape fabric to control weed growth if you like) and go with whatever looks nice to you.

If things do move a fair bit, smaller pavers will handle it better and be less likely to break over time.


How can I prevent a ceiling fan light kit from wobbling?

You'd have to take the light or light kit apart. Typically they are locked into place on the wire shaft & quite wobbly & loose.

But, if this has gotten looser & looser, then you should be able to tighten a nut or 2 on the wire shaft to get everything back to solid.

Be conscious of the loosening in the future by holding the light socket with 1 hand while swapping out the bulb with your other hand. You can also put a drop of any glue on the threads to keep it tight a good long while.


Is there any reason to seal/waterproof underground spliced sprinkler cable?

Yes, because a poor connection due to subsequent corrosion can affect the signal which may well cause unreliable operation.

There are waterproof junction boxes available which you should use.


Saddle valve on water line running to fridge won't shut off

If water is still coming out after turning off the valve, the valve needs to be repaired or replaced. It's possible that there is some debris or hard water deposit in the valve that is preventing it from sealing and cleaning the valve will do the trick, but a new saddle valve is so inexpensive ($15 or less) it really isn't worth any time diagnosing it; I would just replace it.

The danger is that taking the saddle valve off of the pipe to inspect or replace it might cause a leak all on its own; you may introduce a new leak between the valve and the pipe when you reassemble it.

A bigger concern in my opinion is that your main water shutoff has the same problem. If your home is going to sit vacant while on the market and you are planning to turn the water off or if you are trying to get your house in tip-top shape to sell, that's what I would hire a plumber to fix. Maybe ask him to put a new saddle valve on in the kitchen while he's there.

If you're not interested in investing money in the house or not worried about needing to have the water absolutely off after you move out, as @JPhi1618 mentioned in a comment on your question: you could do a band-aid repair by putting a cap on the end of the line to prevent damage to the flooring and let the next owner deal with it.


What can I do about a dead Delta 62-043 table saw motor?

You could see if it can be repaired by a local motor shop. They are not inexpensive though.
You can look on Craigslist for any electric motor with the same specs as yours, the most important being HP, RPM, voltage and frame type. Northern Equipment does offer a replacement that matches your motor specs for $300.
Verify that the smoke was not just the drive belt. With the belt removed see if the blade spins freely. If something is binding and you can remedy it you may have burned the belt, damaged the motor but not killed it.
Check the sides and end of the motor for a thermal safety switch: a button, usually red or black, that resets when pushed in.


Installing base cabinets - screwing to the wall and each other?

While I am not a cabinet maker by trade, I have successfully built two full sets of cabinets (base and uppers) and am currently getting ready to hang my third in my newly renovated kitchen.

First, always start with the corner box. If it is not already level, square and secure, you'll want to make it so before attaching the other boxes as it's your foundation.

For #1: Yes, you will clamp the front frames together to align and level them to the corner box. Then secure them to the wall using #2 answer below. Then you need to attach the frames together as that will keep your seam from becoming a gap. Your screws need to be 90 degrees not angled when you screw the cabinets together. Do not glue, you may want to replace or refurbish later. You can easily hide the screws by counter sinking your screws 1/2 inch or so and using a plastic or wood plug. Or simply use a nice brass finish screw to compliment your woodwork. Or use a screw that blends in with the color of the wood if you are really concerned about it. Since your cabinets will be painted simply paint the screw head if it is even visible.

For #2: In all of my cabinets I have built a 1 x 2 solid wood rail at the top and bottom of the back of the cabinet that the 1/4 inch panel is nailed. I use this to attach the cabinets to the wall studs for base and upper cabinets. I use 3 inch drywall screws. You do not need to secure to the floor unless you are creating an island that does not have wall access.

I have not tried them, but you can also purchase rails in 8 foot lengths that you can hang on the wall, then attach brackets to your cabinets that hang on the rail. This secures the top of the cabinet but I'm guessing you'd still need to fasten the bottom through a stud.


You can want whatever you want to want, but that won't make it practical or efficient or cost-efficent (which comes back to practical.)

There are at least 2 things that might be called a "solar tube" that come immediately to mind, and they are quite dissimilar. One is an "evacuated tube solar collector" and other other is a tubular skylight. I rather suspect you are referring to a tublar skylight, which is not remotely practical for heating. Evacuated tube solar collectors are quite practical for heating, when the sun shines - they heat water or antifreeze which is pumped around a heating system and which can be used for heat or hot water in the usual manner.

Fresnel lenses have cost and performance tradeoffs relative to simply using more collector area, making them an unusual component of solar heating apparatus. They also suffer from needing to be aimed at the sun; when a system that is going to require a tracking system to point it at the sun is built, it's usually a better tradeoff to use parabolic mirrors rather than fresnel lenses, but some (generally unsuccessful, at least commercially) systems using fresnel lenses have been built.

If you really wanted to use solar skylight type tubes for solar heating, pretty much the only way I can think that might work would be to use a heliostat system to concentrate multiple suns worth of radiation onto a mirror that would reflect down the tube, (which has some inherent engineering problems, and is unlikely to be cost effective in any case.) It would have a "way to turn it off" in that you could direct the concentrator mirrors away from the target. If you happen to have enough money and ambition to pursue this path, I'd suggest using stainless-steel insulated chimney for the pipe, rather than the more usual material, as the walls of the pipe might well heat up. Or do something a bit more practical with the same money...

Heliostats do offer an interesting option in a more practical vein, that of potentially being able to direct sun into windows on all sides of the house at all times of the day (so long as the mirrors can be placed in unshaded positions, and the sun shines) and heliostats have become theoretically simpler to achieve with the advent of low-cost computing rather than having to depend on complex clockworks. But they are still somewhat specialized, low production volume and thus relatively costly (or entirely home-made) items.


Increasing water temperature in water heater

Advantage: you keep Legionella bacteria from harming your family.

Disadvantage: risk of scalding at any temperature that will kill Legionella

Go with automatic anti-scald blending faucets, and you get the best of both worlds and longer showers too.


What kind of screwdrivers can unscrew these screws?

The picture may say it all, I think you will be hard pressed to find a replacement fan. There is not a whole lot to do with these type of fans.


While they do make exterior cement board your issue is really going to be that of loading and exposure to other elements.

You will have pavers and then a person standing on them you may exceed the loading (although they are used as a base material for underlayment of ceramic floors there is additional support across the board - your ground may not provide that support.
Further you will also have the elements at play here chemical composition of various components of the soil and rain water (is your rain water alkaline in nature or acidic) and what other contaminants will be in it as it washes the board over time.
You will have issues with shear over time as people walking on the top of the pavers, ground movements from vibration of nearby roads, perhaps trucks or trains - also your ground might be subject to subduction.

Please look to the following for more information:

See page 141:
https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/canada/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/cgc-construction-handbook-ch04-cement-board-construction-can-en.pdf
See Page 2 and up:
http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/durock-cement-board-system-guide-en-SA932.pdf


Is spraying peroxide on studs with mold enough?

I've seen peroxide and bleach mixtures used frequently to remove mold on studs.  The Natural Resources Defense Council suggests mixing a 1 in 10 bleach solution to clean. The NRDC might be a little too "green" for some people, but the Environmental Research Laboratory at the University of Arizona also has a great article regarding this.  They suggest a bleach to water ratio of 3/4 cup to 1 gal and a minimum 5 minute contact time before rinsing to inactivate and neutralize the mold. Since hydrogen peroxide and bleach do virtually the same thing, I would say the mold is dead if you allowed enough contact time.

However, my concern is the vapor barrier in your picture.

Concrete is porous and will slowly allow moisture to penetrate.  With the vapor barrier on the interior of the studs it will continually trap moisture in between the barrier and the concrete.  This could be the root cause of your moisture problem which caused the mold in the first place.  If so you may be seeing more mold in the future depending on where you live, etc. For more information the EPA has a great technical document on "When Continuous Water Vapor Barriers Shall Not Be Installed."


Why does my washing machine trip the GFCI breaker?

Just doing what it is supposed to do!
A GFCI needs to be very sensitive to do its job. My guess is you've got some moisture getting into the controls and causing an intermittent ground fault. Which is exactly what the GFCI is supposed to do.
Since it is only 5 months old, I recommend talking to Samsung about a warranty repair. You might get "nowhere", but you might find that they have had other problems - perhaps bad gaskets or something allowing water to get where it shouldn't.
If you can't get any warranty (a.k.a. free) help from Samsung, then I would see if there is any way to seal the control panel better.


Will this DIY window fan setup help cool two rooms in our tiny, narrow apartment?

If you have ANY traditional AC system this is a terrible idea, it is allowing a significant amount of conditioned air to naturally transition outside.

If you already reliant on natural air flows and fans, can time it right to feed cool air in, and use some insulated panels to manually block either/both sides not in use it will help. Also, fans are typically (manufacturer specs can greatly differ) more efficient the larger they are, the longer the blades the more curved they get because they are laterally spinning faster at the same RPM; so if you double the width you could place a fan on each half.

Even with this, seal and insulate all areas possible. Most caulking is relative easy to remove so I'd caulk the fan in and remove during the cold season. Insulating and blocking off windows that you don't mind blocking, like bathroom windows already with heavy privacy shades or ones facing the non-sunny side. There are plenty of additional, and better, ways but I can't think of any other right now like these that you can do to a rental and on a budget.


The answer depends partially on the paint being used and how many coats will be used.

Instead of sanding, you could mud it if the remaining surface is in good enough condition, though getting the applied mud smooth and fine can be challenging.

You could simply spray texture over the surface.  A "hopper" gun is readily rented from many home improvement and contractor supply stores.  Or, if the wall isn't particularly big, there are small spray cans of texture.


Why does my laundry machine trip the GFCI when I plug it in?

So, your GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) trips every time you plug in your washer/dryer, but not when you plug in other equipment.

A GFCI detects ground faults, where the power supply line is shorted to ground; it then interrupts the circuit to protect you. Sounds like your washing machine has a ground fault, and your GFCI detects this and then trips. (This is a feature, not a bug.)

There's lots of things this could be: a failed motor, a wire with worn-through insulation, a circuit board failure, etc. etc. etc. Figuring out which would take a lot more information, but an initial test would be to measure the resistance between ground and the hot or neutral plug terminals. If you measure the resistance as anything other than infinite, you've confirmed your problem.


What is the difference between a "handle tie" and "common trip" in circuit breakers?

It ain't about the handle-tie
Common trip does NOT work by one handle tripping, and that action dragging the other handle over via the handle-tie.  That is not how that works.
That wouldn't work because the handles "trip free" - that is, if the breaker needs to trip and a padlock or naughty human is impeding the handle from moving, the breaker just trips anyway.  So if the other half of the breaker impeded the handle from moving, the side that tripped would just trip anyway, and common trip would not occur.
This means you cannot 'bolt on' common trip by adding a handle-tie.
Common trip works by an internal mechanism within the breaker. Either the breaker has it, or does not.  In the case of this Siemens breaker, it does not.   Eaton also makes a line of non-common-trip quadplex breakers just like these, but they also make nearly identical breakers with common trip inner and outer.  Other makers build them with inner common-trip and outer independent trip.
So from a common-trip perspective, a handle-tie is nothing but "trip theater".
The real purpose of a handle-tie, as manassehkatz discusses, is to assure common shutoff when the handle is used as an "off" switch.  And provide a visual cue that the circuits are related.


Increasing the distance from the wall of my pull up bar

For just 1.5 inch more space off the wall, sure, another layer of 2x4 could work fine. It's not necessary to pull the existing horizontal boards off the wall; you could just build up another layer in front of those. Thinking about how the forces might be in play I guess orienting the second layer vertically could be a bit better.
If you wanted to hang the arrangement from the ceiling.. what if you rotate the brackets so that they attach to the bottom side of the I-joists? If that puts the bar a little too low you could install some 2x blocking between the webs of the floor joists and fix the brackets to that instead.
On the other hand, if brackets mounted to the I-joist flange puts the bar too high above the floor then you'd have to find a way to bring it down lower. Lots of strategies to do that.. some kind of lumber hanging down from the joists. Might be a patch of plywood fixed to the side of two floor joists, and a piece of 2x4 at the lower edge of the plywood to give a secure surface for mounting the pull-up bar brackets.


How often should I backwash my pool filter?

You can choose to backwash and replace the DE in the filter with new material any time you want. The increasing pressure readings occur because the DE filter material fills up with dirt sucked in from the pool. There are a series of tradeoffs that you have to evaluate when deciding to back flush or not.

1) Increased pressure to pull pool water through the DE filter means that the pump motor is working harder and will pull increased current thus increasing the cost of operation.

2) More frequent backwash of the filter will incur additional cost of DE material to replace in the filter.

3) Letting the pressure build up over longer periods of time can allow excess dirt to deposit in the filter. This can lead to caking of the filter material such that it will not flush put completely when you attempt a backwash. This will generally require opening the filter unit, removing the filter screens and cleaning them with a hose. This adds significantly to the work time required to do the filter cleaning. More frequent disassembly of the filter can also lead to higher chance of damaging a filter screen and requiring its replacement.

4) Depending on the sizing of the pool pump motor on your particular installation an increased pressure load on the pump motor will raise its operating temperature. In hot summer weather this can potentially lead to motor failure if it gets too hot.

5) As you have already experienced, increased pressure due to a dirty filter, reduces flow through the pool circulation system. This can increase the amount of tine required to clean the pool if the water draw from the skimmer hose gets too low.

If your time is considered even for the various tradeoffs then it mostly becomes a tradeoff of the electrical energy costs for operating the pump at higher pressure versus the cost and availability of the fresh DE material.


Quite critical -- an improperly installed fan is a trap waiting to fall on an unsuspecting occupant's head!  I'd fix it straight away (and double check to make sure you didn't damage the parts that are currently holding the ceiling fan up, too)!


What is the best way to clean a brick paver patio?

Yes, the pressure washer will dig out the sand between the bricks.  I would not recommend it.

I would suggest a stiff brush with dish detergent mixed with water.  If that is not strong enough try some professional paver cleaning products from your local home improvement store.


Rewire a ceiling fan, ceiling fan on, not controllable by switch

I think you have a hot-neutral reversal somewhere. You don't show it, but I'm going to assume that you have a ground wire in there somewhere. If you have a multimeter, the voltage between white and ground should be 0 (or almost 0, a couple of volts at most). If not, then you need to take apart all of the connections in the circuit and test each one to figure out where the reversal was introduced and fix it.


Does UV exposure cause deterioration to PVC pipe which can lead to catastrophic failure?

I work in an environment that has 384 54W T8 fluorescent lamps and one PVC pipe. The pipe was unwrapped and began failing (crumbling apart) in 9 years. It wouldn't have held up to a someone bumping into it for probably a year prior to that, either. Your conditions will probably be less extreme, but it's a good idea to wrap or paint your pipe.


Weight distribution in load bearing wall?

No, the second header won't convert the point loads from the first header into a uniform load.


Can my municipal water line siphon from my house water lines?

Yeah, it sounds like you got backsiphoned
Most houses in the US don't have any protection against their municipal water service going negative pressure and backsiphoning any garbage present at outlet points into them.  Even if you have lawn irrigation, the vacuum breaker for that only prevents the irrigation system from contaminating things, not your whole water service.  Likewise with hose bibbs; if your house is recent, your hose bibbs will have vacuum breakers on them, but many older houses lack these, so it was very possible that the contents of your neighbor's kiddie pool or garden sprayer got sucked into the water system.  (Fortunately, most other domestic things have air gaps as part of their installation, but even those aren't foolproof due to the rise of fixtures with extensible heads.)
So, I'd turn off the water heater to avoid heating an empty tank, and make sure to flush your lines and faucets thoroughly once the water's back on, since there's no telling what could have been sucked in during the backsiphonage event.  Also, listen to your water utility, as they may be putting out boil-water orders for a fair length of time after the water comes back on, or even telling you not to use it for drinking if something more...industrial has gotten into the works.


replacing 20 amp breaker which is the test breaker

If the breaker is over 5 years old it is a GFCI breaker and it protects outlets at wet locations whether they are outside or at a sink in the kitchen or bath. Make sure you replace it with the same style (GFCI) Also make sure it is bad to begin with by pressing the test button and if the reset button pops out, it is good, press the reset button to turn the breaker back on. This confirms it is good. OR it might already be tripped and just needs to be reset. If pressing the test or reset does nothing, then the breaker needs replacing. If you have never been inside a breaker box, it is a scary proposition for a newbie, I would not recommend it. Please test it to see if it is bad by the instructions above, and get somebody who has done it before to replace it while you watch perhaps....


Maybe something like sodium acrylate or polycarbonate (lexan) would work. Unlike acrylic sheets (plexiglass glass) the two I mentioned are less brittle and easier to fasten with screws and drilled holes. These materials can all be cut with a specialized handheld plastic cutter that looks like a razor.

The cost will depend on the thickness of material, but given that they're strong you could probably get away with bracing thinner sheets.


Can rotary tool bits be used with a drill?

Impact driver? I wouldn't. Those bits are so small you'll just shatter them.

Regular drill? Maybe. Most drills max out around 1000-1500 RPM, although some specialty drill models max out around 4000 RPM. On the other hand, a Dremel usually starts at 5000 RPM and can max out around 30,000 RPM. So depending on the bit, you might get adequate performance. But most bits will probably be completely unusable.


Comment was too long for comment block.

Your boiler was likely installed in a space that does not provide sufficient combustion air.

The better and long-term solution is to provide a proper vent to provide the needed air. You seemed to have figured this out on your own.

The next logical question is where to put the vent and what size is needed.

I have always felt the answer to this question is not found in the law or 'code,' but what is safe.

The major concern to me is carbon monoxide production by the boiler. CO is made when there is not enough air to completely burn the gas the gas that is firing the flames.

The code seems a good place to find a 'safe' number for the amount of air needed.

The answer to what does the code say, is not easy to determine. There are a number of boilers in the US Boiler, Burnham Series 2 (Model B) product line. The difference is BTU input rating.

The install manual does not provide venting information, instead it points NFPA 54. NFPA states that JHA makes the final determination.

The NFPA answer requires knowledge of the furnace, and the amount of air in the house that can be used for combustion.

The amount of air, found through a formula based on measured or calculation of air provided by the house.

The issue of proper venting should also be addressed, this requires more, and different ventilation.

I know this did not give you a satisfying answer to your question. The CO issue is enough that you should have the needed changes made.


How do I remove dried latex paint from clothing?

I find that rubbing alcohol works quite well as a solvent for dried latex paint.  Soak and rub.


There is a good chance that you will be perfectly fine. I've rolled out of trays I've let paint dry in with perfectly fine results when I got lazy and it was an area I wasn't concerned about (like a shed, inside of my garage, etc...)

However, based on which paint you chose, I'd say this is more important area, so why risk it?

There is a chance that the new wet paint plus the bending, flexing, or pressure of you rolling could loosen up some more pieces/flakes.

Liners are cheap, but if you really do plan on reusing them clean them up immediately after use to make it easier.


Trying to replace a Trailer's kitchen faucet

It looks like you need a 3/8 to 1/2” male to male adapter take the larger piece to a plumbing or big box store to make sure you get the right sizes but you will will need a 1/2” nipple a 3/8 nipple and a female reducer from 1/2” to 3/8 and some pipe dope or Teflon tape to make the transition. You may be able to get push on fittings also but the nipples may be cheaper and quick.


adding an GFCI outlet off an existing outlet. 120v two wire with ground

The existing outlet probably has another set of screw contacts specifically for a downstream outlet. If it does not, you should replace it with a newer outlet.

http://www.how-to-wire-it.com/images/296xNx2-outlets-in-series.jpg.pagespeed.ic.vFuUvogAxu.jpg

Make sure you hook up the ground to the new GFCI.

I'm gonna guess that if you ask the manufacturer or an electrician they will suggest or require that you add a new run from your panel with a dedicated breaker.  But as a DIY'er, I would run it as you said from an existing run.


Masonry walls sorry spell check brick , concrete etc .
I am not sure if flood damage once repaired requires notifications.
The bulge won’t hurt but it looks ugly I use a steamer and sometimes a spray bottle with water to remove bad tape jobs. Then retapping and painting. I don’t know if it will get any worse but it normally won’t get better, some cases it will fall off. Don’t get aggressive and pull the paper tape because some spots usually stick and can rip the Sheetrock paper.

If the room is a recreation room for kids I would wait to repair until just prior to repainting , if it is a nicer area and bothers you it is a good beginner DIY job for tape and texture .


Old or new water damage on roof interior

I don't see what looks like water damage. I see what looks like white-wash (old paint) on some of the roof 1x (one-by) components. It also looks like the white wash was put on the material before it was used to build the roof.

My guess is that the two 1x12s, with the white streaks, had the white-wash dripped on them, maybe while the other materials were being painted.

Another guess is that your pictures show some 100 year-old material re-purposing. Like a white-washed chicken coop was dismantled and the boards were used on the house.


It might be the flame rollout switch, try resting it and see if it works.

The flame rollout switch (typically mounted on the side of the burner box) is a safety device which senses a hot flame or exhaust and shuts down the furnace to prevent a fire or carbon monoxide buildup in your house. Once it has tripped the furnace will not start unless you reset it


Should I lubricate the motor in my power drill?

The drill you display is for DIY use (as opposed to professional use), so it's designed to be durable enough for years of typical DIY usage. So it has no user-serviceable parts - even its brushes will last for about one hundred hours of motor running and you're not expected to think of what happens to them after that one hundred hours.

That's why you really have two options - either just continue using it or bring it to a service center and prepare to pay a fortune for servicing.

One possible reason of noise is that after mild (thus permissible) wear accumulation it just started to sound differently.


Is one circuit connected to two breakers safe?

Did the electrician replaced the Service panel only, or (s)he also worked on other things like adding junction boxes and ran new conduits? The problem of 2 breakers (let's call #1 and #7 connected to the same circuit (lights in this case) might not be at the Service panel, but it could be that he had mistakenly connected wire from #7  to the existing light circuit which already had been connected to #1 prior to this, at the new junction box. You need to trace down where the old lighting circuit connected to those #1 and #7 wires.


When using mineral spirits(MS), I keep a "used" bottle and a new bottle. When the new is empty, I make it a new "used"

I usually do the first round using used MS and return it to the used bottle.

Once the brush is mostly clean, I start using fresh, clean MS.  I usually do 2 rounds or more, if paint is still  coming out

I don't do a water/soap step until I'm sure it clean.  If I'm using a china bristle brush (natural white or black boar bristles), I NEVER use water with it.

If a brush has accumulated gunk and isn't getting clean, a soak in a "Brush cleaner" product will restore it.

PS:
The used bottle, if left undisturbed long enough (2 mos) will self-clean and be nearly new (the solids will settle on the bottom).  This then argues for a third container, between new and used.  You should NEVER put MS down the drain.


I need to power a dryer and a sauna from the same 220v/30a breaker, but not simultaneously

Are you on NEC 2014?  NEC 400.7(A)(11) specifically allows an isolated inter-floor run between an outlet and an inlet.
However this must be done using normal and proper in-wall wiring methods such as NM-B cable, or THHN in conduit.  Your plan, to York-a-dirk it* with an SOOW extension cord, violates 400.8, and the inspector was quite right to nix it.
All this is beside the point. There is no limit to the allowed number of 30A receptacles on a 30A circuit. Route the new circuit to the breaker panel not the dryer recep.  Share the breaker.

* thanks for that, autocorrect!


The only thing bearing on that wall are shampoo bottles.
Knock away.  The wall is empty.  Note that the end of the porcelain tub is open,
so something will have to go back to cover it up.  When it's open you can inspect under the tub for horrors.

But you'll also want to remove the wall sheathing all around that tub, and read up about flashing and backer board.


GARRISON 2498545

The image below from the amazon link.

The area in red box is where air from your room is drawn into the unit. It passes over the supercooled coil and exits back into your room through the top vents. Do not obstruct air flow into the unit. Set mode to cool,energy saver off, temperature to lowest 62, fan to high.

And if there is a setting or manual method fir opening a vent to let outside air into the home close it. Amazon page describing this unit photo below.

Take note of the feature called air exchange. This would be a feature allowing the option of introducing fresh outside air into your home during the cooling cycle. Obviously you want that off on very warm days.

If all of that still does not give you lots of continuous cool air there us something wrong with the unit and it needs to be serviced by a qualified ac technician


First question: is the overflow blocked? If you fill up the sink and leave the water running, will it spill onto the floor?

If no, don't worry about it. There's may be some mold or soap scum in the drain. If that wigs you out, a bottle brush and some bleach should do the job.

Second question: is the drain blocked because your child pushed bits of toilet paper into it? If yes, then you'll have a solid mass of papier mache in the drain, and the only solution will be accessing it from the bottom (which means removing the tailpiece). My suggestion below won't help.

So, assuming that you have a "normal" clog in the drain, such as what might happen if you shave with a full basin and hair floats into the overflow, you can get a plastic mini-snake that is designed to pull hair out of a drain.

Here's one example that Home Depot sells: http://www.homedepot.com/buy/plumbing/drain-openers/brasscraft-zip-it-bath-and-sink-hair-snare-bc00400.html


How to fix spotting caused by spray on acrylic sealer?

When in doubt scuff sand and try again. Its not a for sure fix but it's a zero investment gamble. Just sand it lightly with 220 - 320 (i like these foam backed sanding pads) until the spots disappear (hopefully) then clean thoroughly with a tack cloth or micro-fiber cloth and spray it again. If if works great, if not your not out any thing because you would have needed to sand it down and start over anyway. Good Luck!


Connecting water tankers at different levels

The solution is to mount the tanks so the filled surface of each tank is or will be at the same level.

That means some tanks will be mounted on supports at different heights to others.

if These tanks are to stay on separate floors, then the second floor tank will need a one way connection to the outlet to stop the top tank filling it.

Both tanks need a fill control valve.


Bracket to lay 3× 2x6 on top a 4x4 post?

You want the post and beam to have the same width dimension. Although you're trying to recycle, it's best to build this with a 6x6 beam and 6x6 posts. It will be stronger and look nicer anyways. Attach them together with the Simpson LCE4 seen below. A total of 4 of them will be needed and each of them will need (14) 0.162 x 3 1/2 into the beam and (10) 0.162 x 3 1/2 into the post.


Is it necessary to re-wrap the house when we tear off the siding?

When repairing a small section of siding, it's a best practice to tape the holes and rips in the weather wrap (which you refer to as "paper") with the appropriate tape. But for a larger area, it's faster to simply replace the entire section of weather wrap and I would insist on it. Nail holes and tears compromise the effectiveness of the material, so I wouldn't recommend leaving it on when residing the house.


Is it possible to connect this wall light to the existing fixture?

Turn off the power at the wall switch. If there are others in house while you are doing this, tape the switch in the off position or attach a note to it, and inform all others in the house that they are not to flip this switch while you are working on it. Safer yet is to turn off the breaker to this circuit in the consumer unit.

The black coloured connection block looks like it is in the light fixture and, if so, I suggest you use it. Remove the other connector from the brown and blue coloured wires and insert them into the appropriate holes in the black block, and secure them with the screws (firm tight but not so tight you break anything). Insert the earthing wires in the middle hole and secure. Test by turning on the wall switch.


Do outbuildings require 4 wire service to a sub-panel

In every part of the country, any subpanel requires a 4-wire feed. That's been code for well over a decade.

Additionally, any outbuilding (not connected by a breezeway) requires a Grounding Electrode System of its very own.

The reason is  because the wire takes human-made current back to source, but the ground rod takes nature-made current back to source.  Dirt doesn't conduct well enough to do both.

Retrofitting ground isn't that big a deal

In a 3-wire outdoor subpanel feed, you can just add the ground wire.  It needs to get from A to B, it is not required to run the same route or lay in the same trench.

Rigid Metal Conduit or IMC only needs a 6" burial depth (but it's expensive), and it qualifies as the ground path. Lay a 1/2" steel pipe and yer done.  Use it for comms later :)


I tried the screwdriver and chisel technique with some tiles in a flat in Brighton... and quickly gave up once I found there were three layers of tiles there! So I invested in a cheapish power chisel - like a hammer drill, only it doesn't go around - and finished the job in a weekend.

If you go this route, it's definitely worth buying ear defenders and a good strong set of goggles as tile chips are sharp. I used my chainsaw helmet and got a couple of dings in it.


How do I interpret my furnace clearance diagram?

I would interpret the drawing as you did,however the inspector mentioned 30". I would verify that there is not a local code that requires 30". Another thought is that if you install it with a zero clearance and it requires service acess may be an issue unless your design allows for an acess panel. Also you want to take into account that at some point the furnace will need to replaced. You don't want to add demolition and reconstruction of the space to the cost of the furnace.


Best way to fix bottoming-out on driveway curb-cut?

Everyone will probably look at the curb itself, and come up with useful suggestions, so I'll let other answers deal with that. I shall address the less obvious but nevertheless likely source of the problem: the damping elements in the car's suspension. If your car has less than 75k miles on it and is not considered a budget car, then probably dampers aren't your problem and you can skip this answer. But if you have a car with more miles than ~75k, or it's a 50k+ mile car that is an economy model, the below should at least be considered.
I have a curb with apparently similar dimensions, and I can drive up on it at any speed above 8mph with no worries about contact between the car and the ground, but I most definitely couldn't do that before I serviced the suspension on the car (I did it myself, in order to trade off my time for better quality performance parts than what the dealer would put in by default).
The faster you go up this curb, the less tendency for bottoming out the car should have as long as its shock absorbers and/or struts are not out of order. The tendency to bottom out will come to light as the damping ratio or damping coefficient of the suspension degrades and gets lower, i.e. as the dampers wear out.
In fact, out of various "DIY" means of testing dampers for wear, going up a curb exactly as shown in the picture is about the only way to get a qualitative answer good enough to act on. The only other way I know of doing it to get a clear "good enough/replace now" answer is using fairly expensive lab test equipment.
The various "push down on the car and release" voodoo incantations you can read about on the internet are not very useful except for catching dampers that have completely failed. Most dampers fail progressively and perform very poorly way before failing catastrophically, and that will not be caught by the tests you perform only by humans pushing on the car: the humans are not a fast nor strong enough actuator to yield a usable result, whereas going over a curb uses the car's own powerplant and inertia to generate significant loads at the rates necessary to evaluate damper performance.
In other words: if you try going up that curb at twice and thrice the speed you normally do and the car seems to be bottoming out worse the faster you go, then you need to change your shocks/struts on all four wheels, and the problem will vanish - I'm quite sure of that. You may need to tell us what the car is you experience this problem in, the mileage, and when were the shocks and struts last replaced (if ever). Many cars will have significant trouble with the curbs as pictured once their shocks/struts have accumulated about 100k miles, although this also highly depends on the quality of the parts installed (whether at the factory or the last time they were replaced), and the use history of the car - i.e. if have to drive on dirt roads daily, your shocks may need replacement at shorter intervals in order to maintain a reasonable fraction of their original performance.
Now the flipside: it's possible that due to the angle the photo was taken at, and due to what's outside of the photographed area, the basic geometry of things may be conspiring against you even if you have a brand new car with awesomest sports suspension. That's a possibility, but worn out shocks are slightly more likely than curbs that grow too unwieldy to drive over. I mean, if the curb is seemingly growing over time, that's an entirely different sort of a problem (roots, freeze-thaw action, settling of the soil, etc).


Bedroom over garage with shallow roof with no insulation with temperature problems

I would recommend installing rigid foam insulation panels. It would be much simpler and easier than creating an entire framed structure to contain and cover traditional insulation batts. Combined with foam at the joints as mentioned, you could get a pretty decent insulation value.


Is it safe to run the oven without insulation around it?

Um...in a word...ABSOLUTELY NOT!!

You should without a doubt get the proper replacement insulation and put it back same as it came from the factory.


How do I take apart a wooden pallet without cracking the wood?

They make several styles of tools that are made specifically for getting nails out. One tool called a "cats paw" looks like the picture below. (You may find similar tool under other localized names). A hammer is used to pound the hooked end in under the nail head so that it can then be levered out.

Another type of nail puller is also very effective in that the tool is used by itself without a need for a separate hammer. The handle on this type of nail puller is used to slide up and pound dowwards to embed the jaws around the nail head. Pulling sideways in the direction of the "foot" forces the jaws to clamp tightly on the nail and pull it out.


Unless your "small" bedroom is at least 111-square meters 1.5 ton is way too large, that would need a wiring upgrade & would suck money right out of your pocket. You'd want something in the .5 ton range (not 1-plus anything).

If you'd like a rechargeable fan for frequent power outages & it's common amongst your selection, then you'll have something to move the air. So, that's a plus but a waste & a potential future problem if you don't see a need.

The store(s) should have a sheet, pamphlet or booklet with the "approximate" size AC unit for a range of room sizes. .5ton or 6000btu should likely work perfectly, but get the store chart, measure your room & go for the next size up or for the maximum suggested for that room size. Going too big does cool, but it doesn't remove the humidity before it shuts off, so you'll always feel clammy.


I have an 8 gallon compressor can I use for a small project or should I use an airless sprayer?

Depends what you hook it up to for a spray gun. You know the limits, shop accordingly, or use a paintbrush.


Replace Broan 670 with new fan/light from bathroom

It is highly doubtful that it would be possible to simply place the guts of a new fan unit into the housing of an old fan, especially when it is a different manufacturer. In addition the fact that the new one has lighting in it means that there will be different wiring provisions inside the new housing for two circuits and your old housing only accommodated a single circuit.

The differing models are also highly likely to have differing size and type of fan blade assembly and air guides as well. Attempting to deconstruct both the old and new units to be able to swap parts just to save an old external housing might be possible but it is not something you are going to do reaching up into the ceiling. Instead you would have to have both units out on a workbench to perform the surgery. Such work would likely include breaking spot welds and needing to drill holes and use sheet metal screws to reassemble. But hey if you have it out on a workbench why not just mount the new one in the ceiling.

It has been my experience that you can replace the fan from below (I've done it on flat roofed houses where there was no attic) but you should plan from the outset to remove the ceiling drywall back to the center of the next ceiling joist and make the cutout be large enough that you can work through it. You will need access to:

Disconnect the vent pipe from the old unit.
Shut off the power and remove the wiring connection from the old unit.
Demount the old unit from the side of the ceiling joist.
Mount the new unit.
Connect the vent pipe to the new unit.
String new wiring cable from the fan to the switch location with the added wires needed to deal with both a fan and light switch/dimmer.
It has also been my experience that it takes at least one or two holes through the drywall to be able to route the new wiring cable and remove the old one.
Connect up the wires of the cable to the fan box following the manufacturer directions.
Cut a new piece of drywall to cover the hole in the ceiling and go around the new fan housing. It can be a good idea to lay flat pieces of wood along the top side of the unsupported edges of the existing drywall and secure in place using drywall screws through the drywall into the wood. This provides a support so that you can mount the new piece along as many edges as possible.
Drywall mud, tape and refinish the ceiling as appropriate.

You did say you had an attic...even though access may be difficult it may still be less work overall to replace your fan from above even if the clearance to rafters is only a foot or so.


How can I tell if it is safe to clip these wires?

If you go over to Amazon and search "voltage sensor" you can find several quality sensors for less than fifteen bucks. Once you have it, you can place the probe near the wires in question, and the probe will signal if there is any hazardous voltage present. This is an item that should be in any Do-It-Yourselfer's tool box.


What's the name for this very thin metal sanding disk for use in a drill?

Sounds like it might be referred to as a "Tungsten carbide buffing disc".


Combine two independent switches into 3-way?

If you use the hallway circuit to power the three-way circuit, you must run four conductors (plus ground) between the two switch boxes.

(If you needed to use the dining room feed you would have to run five conductors.)

With this circuit, you abandon and cap off, or remove completely, the feed cable to the dining room switch. You also abandon and cap off, or remove completely, the useless stub cable to the terminated j-box. I have omitted those cables from my diagram.

I have omitted the fault ground wires from the diagram, but don't omit them from your house.

Using the hallway light j-box as your power source is safer than using the dining room switch j-box. With power coming from the old dining room end, the two-gang (the one with the hallway switch) would have live wires from two separate circuits. A future electrician might not know that he has to flip two circuit breakers to make the box safe to handle.


Toilet with what looks like 11 inch rough-in. Do I buy 12 or 10?


Can I use eye hooks in a cement retaining wall for my garden project? (Support climbing rose bushes against a cement wall.)

You could get a cleaner look by drilling the holes, inserting the plugs, bending  lengths of your wire in half, insert the U-end of the wire into the plug, then drive a screw into the plug, and not use screw-eyes.


How do I build a wet room for a wheelchair user?

A Barrier-Free Water Dam might be an option.  They allow the user to simply roll over them, then they spring back to their original shape and contain the water to the shower.


How do I get my recessed light fixture flush?

The symptom of the gap you have in all my experience with recess lights have been the rough in housing has room for deflection. As you push the trim in place, the rough in pushes up also under the tension of the lens going in and it stays pushed up until the lens bottoms out on the ceiling and is released. The housing relaxes back down and creates the gap.

I have had some success minimizing the gap by twisting the trim slightly after the trim is meeting the ceiling. Twist it in the direction that keeps the tension fingers out on the lens. The wrong direction may allow the tension fingers to collapse for removal and you are back to square one.

If that does not work to your satisfaction, I have glued the rough in down to the drywall so it is stable enough to not rise when inserting the trim.

Blue tape the finished drywall to keep it clear of the adhesive you choose to use, it can be practically anything. Construction adhesive or painters caulk would be my choice. Push up on the rough in to expose the gap if possible of the upper drywall surface and rough in lip. Inject a lot of the tube in the space, it will be messy, have paper on the floor. Let the rough in back down, more may ooze out, keep it clean remove tape and let dry for a while. A day or two will work, longer the better, then try to reinstall.


Do you know what stopped your drill? If it's brick then use a masonry bit and a hammer drill to make a hole. Then use masonry anchors in the brick.


Do you know anything about the building you have them in?  Age of the building, dates of renovations?  If you can pinpoint that it might rule out the asbestos for you.  Asbestos building materials were made illegal in North America and if you can find someone (an older person with some years in) at that place they might be able to help give you some information.  If you haven’t been working with those tiles your exposure would be minimal, for asbestos to be dangerous it must be air born and the amount of exposure determines your health risk.  So if those tiles were broken a long time ago and you didn’t disturb them in your work your exposure would be minimal.  If you have been working with them it does increase your risk unfortunately.


Does the ledger board for a bathtub go under the flange or level with it?

Your tub should have clear and specific instructions. It varies by model and material.

However, if a ledger board is used, it'll be under the flange, providing support from below. There's no point to a ledger if you have a typical framed wall and can simply nail the flange to the studs every 16".

The only tubs I've ever installed using a ledger are large spa-type tubs, and those are usually set into a full deck. Typical shower tubs simply get fastened to the wall framing. Do follow the instructions, though, or you'll void your warranty.


A connection burned out

Outlets are typically wired in a chain.  One of the wires was making poor contact, and the high but allowable load burned out this poor connection.

It will be on either the last good outlet in the chain, or the first bad one.   It will be on the white wire.

If the connections involve the wire jabbed into a tiny hole in the back of the socket (not directly under a screw), that is a backstab. They are notoriously unreliable for this sort of thing.  Most of convert to either screw terminals or screw-to-clamp type connections anytime we see a backstab.

We know it's not a GFCI because you get a hot indication.


Are expansion gaps needed when gluing down linoleum?

The answer is no gap. When installing rolled linoleum you do everything possible not to have a gap. If you have a seam most manufacturers have matching sealer to hide and seal the seam so debris cannot get in there and look bad. So do not leave gaps and if you will have a seam get the appropriate sealer to hide it and prevent debris from building up.


With concrete ceilings/floors between levels, you can install any rated or unrated suspended ceiling. (The concrete ceiling/floor assembly provides the necessary fire rating between floors and between units.)

However, there are height restrictions (which you didn’t ask about).


60amp panel install in an attached garage, do I have my ducks in a row?

Fat aluminum and fat conduit are your friends here if you go the conduit route

Considering that your existing panel is full to the brim to the point where you are straining to make the feeder breaker fit, there is no reason to skimp on sizing for the feeder here.  I would go up to 1.5" conduit over 1.25" to provide more room for pulling and upsized feeder wires (either now or in the future), for starters.  (I would go larger, but your existing box doesn't have anything bigger than a 1.5" KO in its back, so you would need to field enlarge the knockout with a KO punch to get a 2" conduit into it.)

With that, I would go with aluminum feeder wires as well.  With proper termination technique, including the use of brushing/anti-oxidant and more importantly correct termination torque, achieved with an inch-pound torque wrench, aluminum wires landed on modern Cu/Al rated lugs, such as those found on breakers and loadcenters, are no cause for concern whatsoever.  Furthermore, you can use the 75°C column in the ampacity tables as you're running between lugs rated for that temperature and running individual wires in conduit, allowing you to use 4AWG aluminum wire with a 10AWG bare copper ground for 60A, or go up to 1AWG aluminum with an 8AWG bare copper ground for a full 100A feeder.

Panel sizing: bigger is better, but be sure to get the correct accessories!

While that 24-space QO you linked may seem like a large panel, it really is not, especially considering that double-stuff breakers are doubly not an option for you.  (Not only do they not come in AFCI or GFCI, tandem QOs are very limited in selection to begin with as an artifact of QO being a 3/4" breaker line.)

As a result of this, I would recommend biting the bullet and getting something like a QO132L125G or even a QO142L225PG instead, despite the higher price tag up front.  Buying a bigger box now is far easier and cheaper than having to find room for yet another subpanel later, or ripping out an existing panel and replacing it with a new, larger one.

The other good thing about many of the larger main lug QO panels is they come with ground bars already fitted, so you don't have to worry about that.  This is a good thing, as the ground bar you linked is a GE part, and thus not all that useful for you since you are using Square-D panels.

Trenching and routing

You'll need to make sure the top of the conduit is at least 18" deep, which translates into a 20-22" trench depth, since you're using PVC.  This will also require tearing up and patching the sidewalk slab to run the sweep elbow for the garage end underneath it, but if that's not an issue for you, then you'll be good to go.  The rest of it is typical for an outdoor run, with LB conduit bodies on the outside as pull points and some duct seal where the conduit enters the loadcenters at each end.


Forced air heating air inlet in crawl space

For heating I like to have an intake at the lowest part of the house to pull out the cold air.  This may very well be in or near that crawlspace.  If it has a filter, then I wouldn't worry about dust.  Just be sure you're replacing the filter regularly.  However, I would want to know how fresh air gets into that crawlspace.  If it's sealed off, then you are hurting the performance of your heating system.  Otherwise, your intake is effectively where ever the opening to the crawlspace is.

When possible, it's nice to have a short path between the return vent and the blower unit.  In addition to less cost of materials, you have less distance you are forcing the blower to suck the air through, and therefore more efficiency.


Type of insulation for flexible aluminum duct?

Insulated flexible plastic ducting is a common item available at any big box hardware store. Unfortunately not so much for preinsulated flexible aluminum ducting.
Sometimes code prohibits the use of non-metallic flexible ducting (for example often with range hood exhausts)
First I would check whether non-metallic ducting is allowed for your bathroom exhaust. If it is, then just purchase the insulated new ducting. This will be the easiest
If you are required to use metallic ducting, and the run isn't too long, then I have had good luck buying the insulated non-metallic ducting one size larger. You can then sleeve it over the metallic ducting. Sometimes it fits straight away, but sometimes you need to pull the inner ducting out leaving just the fiberglass lined sleeve.
Secure along the run with occasional zipties, and tape and tie at both ends.


Ideas for redesigning laundry room entrance

I would change the door to the garage to open out into the garage. Having noted that "public and commercial buildings" require doors to open outwards for egress, I prefer that direction for doors in my house, despite it being "unusual" for homes, for some reason.
Change the other door as well, if you like - a pocket door takes more work, but looks less odd than a "barn door" inside a house, IMHO. But odd is in the eye of whoever actually cares about what it looks like. As can be seen by my choice of house door opening direction.


What are the typical height differences between carpet and hard floor?

What is the typical difference in height between levels C and 5?

NONE- the top of the floorboards should be at the same height. Any slight difference between the height of the laminate and carpet is dealt with by using a transition bar.

Your floor coverings are temporary and will be removed and replaced eventually (perhaps when the next owner restores that sweet 80's sunken living room...); you should not build to different subfloor heights to accommodate the temporary floor coverings.


What should I do about a switch that feels warm and arcs when toggled?

It's good that you found this, in the worst case, this situation can lead to an electrical fire.

Check Connections

First thing to do is turn off the power, and check all the mechanical connections at the switch. If this is aluminum wiring please comment and I'll update the post, as there are other considerations if so.

Are there wires doubled up on a screw (they should not be)? Is any of the wiring loose? The wire should be wrapped around the screw or connected to the pigtails using wire connectors (depending on type of switch) like this:

Check for overloading

Calculate the total current draw on this circuit (controlled by the switch) by adding up the wattage of each bulb. This must not exceed the rating of the circuit, switch and wiring.

Most single pole switches are rated at 15A (1800W at 120V) but older ones may be less. Dimmer switches are also often less, often at 600W.

If you calculate more than 1400W, post a comment and I'll add some additional detail to consider about overall circuit loading and wire sizes.

Replace switch

If the switch is particularly old or feels loose or "mushy", simply replace it with a new one.

I'd actually replace it no matter what, since it's shown signs of overheating which could at least mean it's been damaged (even if the switch itself wasn't the initial cause).

You might also consider 'spec' or 'commercial' grade which are slightly more expensive but are much higher quality and will last much longer.


Why doesn't the "fan on" mode work after I installed a new thermostat?

You haven't provided a whole lot of information, such as if the fan worked with the old thermostat. Regardless, I can help diagnose the problem.

The wires involved are:

R or Rh (possibly red) - 24V AC power
G (Possibly green) - Fan
W (Possibly white) - Heating call

Don't make any assumptions on wiring. You need to open the furnace, find where on the control board the thermostat wire is attached, and verify its wires are connected as you expect. If the wires look right, and your thermostat wiring matches, it's possible there is a break in the wire.

To check for a break in the wire, you can connect terminal R to G on the control board itself. I highly recommend turning the entire furnace power off while connect wires to the control board -- shorting something out can mean frying the board. If the fan powers up, then the board is good, and you need to find where the thermostat wire is damaged (or replace it entirely).

If the fan doesn't power up with the R and G terminals connected directly, then there is a problem with the control board itself, which most likely means replacing the board, unless you can diagnose and solve it yourself.


What can I use to form concrete countertops longer than 8 feet?

Use plywood as your base with a seam, then Formica (plastic laminate) as your base layer in contact with your concrete. You can get Formica cheap because you don't care what it looks like and there is always some pattern that isn't selling and they want to get rid of, you'll make them happy to take it.


Is it safe to trim the torsion bar on a garage door?

Expert/garage door safety paranoiac here.

You know what, I actually feel comfortable with that.

I'd leave several inches beyond the end of the bearing, so if the shaft shifts in the bearing, that's still alright.

No need to trim both sides symmetrically.  Extra length doesn't cost you anything... Unless it does.


Fixing it might be as simple as removing the screw and handle and getting a replacement from the hardware or plumbing shop.

On the other hand, there are hundreds (thousands?) of manufacturers of hose faucets (also called hose bibs, spigots, hose pipe taps, etc.) and the stem to which the handle attaches does not have a standard size or connection method. It may be splined, it may be square, it could be various sizes.

If you don't have an easy time with a replacement handle, replacing the valve is fairly simple and this site has Helpful People to lead you through it (hint- you will need to shut off the water supply to that water line).


How do I apply tile to a small wood platform?

The reason for cement board is to give a good adhesion surface and to increase stability. When a floor flexes from the weight of people walking, or from movement of the house, grout and even the tiles themselves can crack. For a temporary platform intended for a cat box, you're not looking at a lot of weight causing flexing, so I doubt there'd be much cracking. For adhesion, just check the product you're using to make sure it will adhere to wood, but I believe most thin sets and especially any mastic will work without issue.


Channel between foundation wall and floor in crawlspace

It appears to be a drain channel as part of a groundwater mitigation system. Most water enters a basement through the area where the floor and walls meet, and this would carry that away, presumably to a sump pail. I can't tell you what brand yours is, but a search reveals many similar products.

The bottom plate of the wall is wrapped to minimize moisture absorption and transmission. Whether the channel was installed at the time of initial home construction or later is unclear. I can imagine a solution where channel is installed on top of an existing slab and a thin layer of cementitious material is poured inside it to raise the slab level accordingly.


Led pot light wire damaged at rough in by drywall cutout tool. How to repair?

My non-code, unofficial, somewhat hackish, minimally risky solution would be to:

Cut the wire as long as possible near the socket base. You'll need at least 3/4" of good wire.
Cut the wire at an undamaged point on the other side of the damage.
Strip both wires 3/8" and twist well (but not so vigorously that you damage it).
Install a butt-splice connector of appropriate size with a good crimp.
Wrap the repair with tape, then wrap the other wire in with it to create a splint to prevent pullout. Use a high-heat tape as this is a tight space with heat-resistant insulation on the wires.


Changing old light switch 2 black wires and 1 red

This appears to be a conventional switch configuration. The white wire carries the neutral on to the outlet that is switched. One of the black wires is the hot. The other is an extension of the hot to some other fixture or to one half of the switched outlet. The red is the switched hot.

After removing the old switch, the preferred method is to join the two existing black wires together and to add a short additional black wire (called a pigtail). Cap it with a wirenut or use push-in connectors to attach all three wires. The other end of the pigtail goes in one side of the new switch and the red in the other.


White fiberglass looking material inside fireplace - what is it?

There are many non-asbestos high-temperature fiber insulations (Kaowool, Superwool, rockwool, etc.) - but as with all asbestos questions, you can't tell by looking, so send a sample to a lab if it's of an age where asbestos is possible.
Fiberglass won't take the heat, so it's not that.


Are all wall-switch dimmers created equal? If not, what are the differences?

Cheap dimmers are cheap for a reason

Cheap dimmers often omit the extra parts needed to generate clean output, without EMI, asymmetric waveforms, or other things that can confuse the fiddly business involved in getting a LED to dim solely off a phase-controlled 120VAC power input.

Get a decent spec-grade dimmer intended for LED/CFL use (Lutron makes good stuff, and their support is solid too, if you want a brand name to go by) instead of the builder-grade cheapie you threw in there if the problem persists with dimmable bulbs. An air-gap shutoff is a good idea as well (all the Lutron dimmers have it, and any spec-grade dimmer should have it).

And make sure your bulbs are dimmable, too

LED drivers, whether integral or external, have to explicitly support phase-control dimming in order for it to work -- it will not work properly "by accident" as you found out the hard way.  So, lesson learned: make sure your bulbs are dimmable when you're using them on an LED compatible dimmer.


How do I stop my vacuum belt from making a noise and smelling when using it?

The belt is a wear item - it will need to be replaced occasionally.

Typically, what happens is that the beater will get stuck on something but the motor will continue to run, and the friction of the motor against the belt will cause it to heat up - that's what you're smelling.

Once that happens, it's time to replace the belt.  One trick that might get a bit more life out of it is to reverse the belt, but that probably won't last that long - most belts have grooves on one side to improve friction.


I pride myself on being able to fix many things, but the inside of window that's probably gas sealed isn't one of them (maybe someone else here can chime in with some window magic).

Replacing the window package I could do; fix your window, not so much.

If you can get the window out of the frame and take it somewhere, it'd be cheaper but you're most likely going to have to board up the window for quite some time while it's in the shop.

Ordering a new  one and having it on hand for a swap out would be ideal. I'd have an eye on the other windows too, though. How soon until they go; consider having a complete new install on the dining room package.


Outdoor exhaust pipes from my heating system

Scenario 1: Nothing. The heated exhaust air will melt its way through the snow and you won't have a problem.

Scenario 2: The furnace will malfunction. The exhaust pressure sensor will trip, causing an incomplete startup cycle.

Scenario 3: You'll get poisonous exhaust gases accumulating in your home, possibly causing illness or death.

Moral of the story: Make sure that doesn't happen by extending the pipes or whatever else is necessary. Make sure you understand how to do it properly so you don't make the problem worse.


How can I make my hard stone entrance staircase softer and more kid friendly?

Carpet the stairs. A fairly thick outdoor carpet could be secured using high-strength construction adhesive along with screws into the metal risers under the lip of each step. Perhaps even a rubber "nose" under the carpet, along the sharp edge of the steps. That would lessen the danger of a fall, at least a bit.

When unbearably muddy/dirty it could be water blasted and wet-vac cleaned.

When the tykes have grown the carpet could be removed (albeit with some labor to scrape off the glue and patch work on the screw holes) to reveal the nice original stone steps.

Contact the local flooring industry council or guild for advice; they would love to offer solutions and supply and install it for you. Or you could take a chance and do it yourself.


What's the formal name for this type of flashing used in stucco homes? And what does it take to replace rusted portions?

I call it: edge metal, J-channel flashing, L-metal flashing. Comes in many types of metals, thickness and thicknesses, (and is commonly custom made.)

Yes, it’s very difficult to repair/replace.


Vertical position of cable railing tightening anchors for stairs

It doesn't matter. I'd put the larger one where it's less conspicuous.


Use sandpaper and your finger, or the edge/corner of a sanding block.

Though if you're just trying to remove paint I might first try using acetone or other solvent.


Some advice about reconstructing a design on a kitchen wardrobe

Good day sir. In my professional career as a remodeling contractor I have made repairs to plaster coved ceilings using a technique that will transfer to your situation.  I just hope I can explain well enough to help you understand.

The idea of using a filler is on track.  Your challenge is to replicate the missing pattern, using a filler, consistently. To overcome this I suggest you create "a filler application tool" (similar to a mud knife that is used to spread compound onto drywall when finishing) that mimics the missing pattern. To make the custome "mud knife" obtain a small piece of 18 g metal.  Lay it perpendicular to the door to allow you to trace the pattern.  Cut the pattern out and you have a customs tool.

I suggest that a filler such as "bondo" is generously applied over the clean, sanded area which requires repair and Then you will use this custom made "mud knife" to drag across the length of the panel, removing the excess filler, leaving the voids filled

It may take a couple coats and I recommend sanding and fine tuning/shaping the detail work between coats. Note; I believe the grooves in the panel will act as a guide for the tool, however if you cannot obtain a straight line, you can secure (clamp or temporarily nail) a jig, such as a 1x4, to the panel that can act as a guide as you drag the tool along it.

Good luck, I hope this made sense and was helpful.


How can I clamp two 325 mm planks while gluing them together?

If Bessey K style are not in the budget, Bessey H pipe end clamps are very economical, with new lengths available for the price of an iron (or steel) pipe.

Found these on Amazon UK


Manual tamping is hard labor. Consider it gym time. You'll want to add a few inches, maybe wetten it slightly, and start pounding. Repeat until you get to the top.

Alternatively, rent a power tamper and save yourself a lot of time and aches and pains.


It's hard to say if this will ever close right from the picture, and given how old the question is, I'm guessing you've repaired or replaced it by now. But for those that encounter this issue in the future, doors themselves can warp and be easily unwarped.

You need to loosen the screws hidden under the gasket of the door, and with them loose straighten the door. This is typically done when the top or bottom of the door closes before the other so the gasket doesn't seal, so I'm not sure how well that will work if a corner is high rather than not closing. When re-tightening the screws, start with the 8 screws closest to the 4 corners, and then double check your alignment (you can make small adjustments still) before tightening the remaining screws.


Should I use water-resistant lumber for siding?

I would suggest using composite or PVC lumber in this application.  Composite boards are moisture and rot proof. They are made with wood fibers and recycled plastics.  Most are paintable so you can match colors.  The other choice  is PVC boards. Some are paintable, but most should be used in the factory color. If you do paint PVC, use a product that is specifically for plastics, regular latex paints will not adhere properly.

Pressure treated lumber is a good product for this application, however it is difficult to paint. It usually has a high moisture content and must be very dry before attempting to prime and paint. Not a good base for paints, however better for stains.

I'd stick to composites in your situation.


50 amp circuit breaker for a 30 amp electric oven?

Actually there is a code reference for breaker sizes in this case.
The reference table is on NEC 210.24 ,,  210.21.B.2 & B.3 show the tables.
A 30 amp device is a bit vague if the device draws 30 amp it could be on a 40 amp protected circuit, but not normally a 50.
In this case we would check the mfg instructions.
I have found a few cases where the mfg designed the oven for use on a 50 amp circuit.
The circuit breaker is to protect the wiring but the code also limits the maximum size breaker in article 422.11.E.3  to 150% of the devices rated current. if the oven had a true draw of 30 amps a 45 amp breaker would be the maximum size.
If the device only draws 24 amps and is rated for a 30 amp circuit a 40 amp breaker would be allowed if the device has no maximum stated.
If the device states 30 amp max OCPD that value can not be exceeded no mater how large the wire is.
So depending on the mfg requirements I would change the breaker to the recommended size because some mfg’s will do anything to get out of a warranty repair. Two large of a breaker would not cause a fault but could allow much more damage to happen and some use any reason to deny a repair.


Don't re-grout, clean it! Talking with a Home depot guy last year about this and he was amazed I still had to use a brush. He shows me this stuff called oxygen bleach from Ajax. This was literally the easiest method I have ever used. Make a solution with just enough hot water to dissolve it, apply and let it sit for 15-20 min and mop off. That easy. I will never use a tile brush again. Once you get it sparkling white, you can upkeep it my adding a small amount every time you mop and you will have pearly white floors forever.


use outside air for combustion for gas dryer? why not install in airtight closet,with fresh air intake vent?

In the winter, up north where I live, that would not be a good idea since the air I would need for combustion and to dry the clothes would be extremely cold and would slow up the drying process and require the dryer to run longer. Dryers use a lot of air for both drying the clothes and for the combustion of the nat gas. Also I like the fact that running the dryer will exchange some of the homes air helping to keep the home's atmosphere fresh. Some seemingly good ideas are probably just too good for me. There would probably be no cost savings after this investment.


Any way to correct stain bleed after the fact?

What you're seeing is the difference between spring growth and the harder, thinner summer growth. Early growth (spring) is rapid, the ring is lighter colored, wider, softer and porous.

Once a stain has penetrated the early growth ring, the stain is permanently part of the layer and the only way to remove it is to remove wood by sanding, planing or inlay.

The issue here is that tree trunks and limbs are water transport mechanisms with a columnar system that extends from root to twig tip. Water based thin inks will travel through the early growth ring just as water would in a live tree.

To make a checker board like this, you will need to treat the wood with a clear oil based finish that seals the wood against this water movement and leaves the wood a natural light color and then apply the black checks over the top with black paint. You could try applying the black paint first, but there will be bleed into the early growth rings which means the lines will not be well defined.