How to fix leaks in concrete and steel bulkhead

In the end - the issues was as I expected. I saturated the area with my garden hose and observed where the water was coming in - which was mostly through the wire penetration.

I dug down to below the wire and removed the wire. I scrapped away the old sealing that had failed, and then used an angle grinder with a flap wheel to bring the hole to bare metal on both sides.

I created a rivet of JB Weld SteelStik and pushed it through the hole, smoothing it with my thumb on both sides. Once that had set - I coated both sides in a thin JB Weld Steel Epoxy. When both had dried rock hard, I painted them with metal primer.

For the long cracks - I scraped out the old sealant that was failing - and used the angle grinder again to clean the area out, removed rust and even the faces where the metal touched the steel. I filled the whole area with Dynaflex 230 waterproof sealant. I used a chip brush to really force the sealant into the crack and paint it on to the area. I then used a rubber detail tool to press it in, and smooth the bead.

I got a big rain storm 2 days later, and everything I fixed held bone dry, but I did find 1-2 other small leaks that will need to be fixed used the same techniques.


Use a plastic NM clamp

My solution to this problem would simply be to use a plastic (non-metallic, IOW) NM clamp, such as an Arlington NM74, NM75, or NM840-844, instead of the metal one, since this box is indoors.


AC smells horrible - Clorox in the drain tube fixes it temp

The  condensate drain line at your unit should have a trap built into it to keep sewer gasses from being pulled up that line. Opening a window may worsen the problem. Since you live in an apartment, I would have a licensed HVAC company do the work. You could then contact the apartment manager for a refund. You could also contact the housing authority for advice on how to rectify the problem. Other solutions may be justified such as a small condensate pump to handle the condensate from your unit only. If you are handy, they cost around $40.00 dollars from "amazon ", or just have the previously mentioned professional do the work.


How do I install a vapor barrier and insulation in an existing floor?

Super late to the discussion, but for those who are still using this as a reference, the important thing to note is that open cell spray foam insulation is not a vapor barrier. Use closed cell foam if you are intending to create a vapor barrier. Another solution that may be more cost effective would be to cut foil-faced EPS and place to underside of substrate (make sure it's a tight fit, foil face down). Tape edges to joist to ensure a seal and then add insulation. This isn't a 100% vapor seal, but better than no barrier at all. You could also look into liquid applied vapor barriers.


Outdoor bayonet light fixture stopped working

Since you have no measured voltage , I would be looking for a fuse or circuit breaker that has tripped. That bulb style in not used in my area for mains lighting. In my area I would work back to the switch then to find what feeds the switch sometimes a receptacle looking for another dead device that could have caused the open circuit or no voltage continuing to work back to the main power panel verifying that any branch fuses are good.


No. You can never wire a receptacle with no neutral, and you can't substitute ground. (This is another disadvantage of running switch loops without them, which by the way is no longer allowed.)


Your plumber is right... or his test was successful in identifying the problem. Since the hot water is installed in a loop system, and cutting off the return seems to solve the problem (or at least reduced the issue), then obviously there is a bad cartrige or crossed line somewhere.

Cold water usually has a slightly higher pressure than the hot water because it has a shorter path to travel (it doesn't travel through a boiler). So, with a bad cartrige (maybe missing an o-ring or something) or a crossed pipe, the cold water would flow into the hot (instead of hot into cold).

Regarding the test, since the hot water is installed in a loop system, the pressure is actually even lower than a non-return type system. The lower pressure of the hot water loop system allows more cold water to enter the hot water line. When he shut off the return (no loop), the problem was lessened to a noticeable extent. This strongly suggest a crossed pipe or faulty cartrige.


How can I prevent water from beading on roof drain channel?

Beading isn't a problem. If it was, a persistent rain would also be a problem. Chances are the oils on the surface will eventually be removed by weather and the beading will subside anyway.


It sounds as if you have a bad connection in that outlet as it feeds other fixtures and outlets downstream. The pressure from the cord is probably pulling the connection closed, and it breaks when the pressure is removed.

This may be due to a loose screw, a broken wire, or a defective outlet body.

It also sounds as if you have little to no experience in dealing with electrical circuits. They can be dangerous for the inexperienced, and you may wish to bring in a professional (or an experienced friend) to help solve the problem.


You have a couple of options.

If this does not happen often, you can likely put a stopper in the drains which backup in the house, and just wait until the sewer is no longer clogged.  To do this, you can purchase a "test plug" for each drain that is experiencing the backup (if you also get backup in a toilet, you will need to pull the toilet to install the plug).  Of course, the downside of this approach is that you need to be at home when the backup occurs, and you need to go through the hassle of plugging the drains / pulling toilets / etc every time it happens.

If you want a more permanent solution, you can install a backflow prevention valve on your sewer lateral.  This will likely involve digging up your yard, splicing the lateral, and installing the valve.  With this option, you do not need to be present to prevent the sewer backup.  However, this will essentially block off your sewer lateral until the sewer stops backing up.  This may cause some backup in your house (if, for instance, you take a shower while the backflow preventer is tripped).


How to tell that projector needs bulb replacement?

You can tell when the lamp dies by measuring the foot lamberts of light from a calibration image when new. I presume you don't have this reference level so, really, the lamp should be replaced when you feel like it's affecting picture quality.

Your situation sounds like something more sinister like chip or DMD death.


That type of stem requires a friction ring (generally either plastic or fiber) at the valve-body thread shoulder. Ensure there is one present and that it is in good condition. Also make sure that you have not inadvertantly installed two rings, as it is sometimes difficult to notice that an old one is stuck to the valve housing in the wall.


Can I safely remove this unused blocking from a load-bearing wall?

I would normally say yes but it appears the 2x4 on the right is heavily notched in a weird fashion.  I would keep blocking across from this to make sure that vertical 2x4 is stable.  Not really sure you need a piece that big though.


Will water damage a spliced coaxial cable?

Chances are good it will oxidize if not hermetically sealed. The (presumably) steel connectors will rust, and the copper core conductor will turn green. Ultimately this could result in a failed connection.

Also, you've added quite a bit of resistance to the signal. You may see degraded performance, especially downstream of additional splitters and connectors.


How do I access this external GFCI outlet? The cover doesn't seem easily removable

It looks like there is a screw to be removed:

Possibly two screws where the other one is hidden in the picture.


You could experiment with making the baffle out of a piece of a furnace filter. Filters allow the air to pass but would block much of the light and some of the sound. The more expensive type filters with corrugated construction and a HEPA rating would probably offer better sound and light filtering than the cheaper thin flat filters.

You will gave to study on your side just what type of baffle you could fit behind your grilles.


How to open up the overflow drain cover of a massage bathtub?

Contact American Standard. I've seen images online that show they have tubs with this type of overflow. They should be able to advise you.
Also it looks as if you don't have any caulking around the edge of the tile joining the bathtub. It would be a really good idea to run some silicone caulking around that edge. Make sure it's silicone and you can get it in clear. If you're not used to using silicone it can be kind of messy when using it.


How do you protect solar panels for storage during house rebuild?

Stacking the panels on top of each other should be fine, but I would not suggest stacking all off them on top of each other as the bottom one will have to bear tremendous weight and might warp it.

Try and place wooden battens (for air flow to stop moisture from being trapped and help displace weight evenly to the next panel using a soft surface) between panels on the same frame that they were mounted to the roof. The frame is load bearing and will handle weight on top of it and disperse weight downwards to the next panel.

You do not have to cover each one in bubble wrap. Just stack em using batons(bareing in mind weight) and then cover the entire stack in foil and possibly some polystyrene and or bubble wrap on the corners and top to prevent shock damage in case something hits or falls on it.. you never know.

Some panels you can stack ontop of each other with no problem as they have a robust frame that supports all the weight.

Exercise some common sense in how to stack them. Make sure they are level and aligned. check on them every now and again during storage phase in case the weight makes something give in.


Can a low-flow shower head cause a leak behind the wall?

This is a fun question. I feel your plight and frustration. The answer is multi-point.

The TLDR version: Yes, a restrictive component upstream from your faucet control and the spicket can introduce the conditions needed for a leak between those two points.

When the faucet itself was off however, all of the water pressure in the home in the pipe is pushing on all sides of the pipe's and faucet's inner surfaces. Home water pressures can be about 60 psi (different codes in different places), but this PSI is regulated by a regulator on your main water supply. All the water in your home is restricted to whatever this is set at.

Now, when you open a faucet, you are giving that water a place to go. Think path of least resistance. The water goes there, but unless the pipes it is going through are too small (like a refrigerator water line) that water will come out at 60psi.

Suffice it to say for the example, the pipe between your shower handle and the shower head can handle say 40psi…. when you open the faucet, with no head, all 40 psi (nearly all), blasts out into the tub. Now put your thumb on it, and some MORE pressure pushes on the pipe sidewalls, while less than 40 comes out. Now put a low flow head on it, and even less.

So yes — if a pipe was weak to begin with, it can start leaking. Now, as far as the cold supply leaking because of the new head? BALONEY. Because when the water is OFF, it is seeing all of the pressure at those connections.

What is most likely the issue with the leak and the faulty faucet (I assert…) is that the act of you touching the shower head pipe had more vibrational impact on the overall piping installation. Also, calcium or other water impurities built up in the pipes may have broken free. This could be what caused the water mixer to "seize up" and also could be what weakened the pipes more than they were before you started the task.

How old is the house? These things do happen. Also, the plumber (while not at any fault), also jostled these connections, and he is right, if the job was lacking in quality, then everything you experienced could happen.


Why does this pipe feeding a hot water heater dip down like this?

It is highly likely that that piping arrangement is made that way to facilitate the installation of a water softener. A water softener will have a need to accept a pipe with incoming hard water and another for the outflow of conditioned water to the rest of the residence.

When a water softener is installed the U shaped fittings at the bottom of those two pipes would be removed and replaced with a new setup that usually consists of three or four valves. The valve setup allows for bypassing the softener, allowing water into the softener and also a configuration to backflush the unit. These days the whole valve system is often all integrated into a control unit with solenoid valves so that the controller can manage the flushing under electronic control.


Splitting Service Equipment Across Two Enclosures

Your plan is still code compliant in the 17 version. I like copper but you may find aluminum easier to find and it is a little easier to bend even though it is a larger size. Make sure to use an anti oxide compound especially with aluminum, but I even use it with copper. Also make sure to properly torque the connections. I teach my apprentice’s to torque break loose and torque again 2-3 times each time the wires relax and are more secure. With large feeders I wiggle them back and forth then retorque it dose the same as releasing and retorqeing.


Why do the radiators in my home heating system get extremely hot?

A lot depends on the type of system you have. If you have a system or combi boiler, it could be the diverter valve which is faulty. This will be in the boiler itself. If you have a Y-Plan system with a three port valve, it could be the three port valve which is faulty. These are usually found in your airing cupboard or in your loft.


How can I paint concrete blocks without trapping moisture?

Seems like a shoddily built roof. So, I think the roof will fail long before painted walls will cause a problem.

It sounds like the outside paint is already 'breathable' if it's absorbing water and capillary action is bring it to the inside. As such, I'd argue that waterproofing the interior is a good thing. Keep the moisture in the wall and allow it to dry to the outside.


Why is there a musty smell from my HVAC system even after coil cleaning?

Musty smells in the evaporator coils are common. You really need a flaming cleaner and the coils need to be cleaned 2-3 times to get everything out.
I use a product called Nu-brite  from My-Calgon it is a non acidic foaming coil cleaner, make sure your drain is working prior to use of it will make a mess. The foam pushes the dirt out.
What you are smelling is dust and grime when the system runs it collects moisture now that dust and grime are the “smelly socks” breeding ground you don’t smell it mid cycle because it is frozen at the start and end when the coils ate thawing you get the full odor.
1 cleaning usually helps 2 may do it but 3 has fixed even the worst (smokers) coils I have encountered with a clear water rinse after each cleaning.
Cool cleaning is suggested at least 1 time per year and with heavy use 2x.
Always have a filter in your system or this can start in just a few hours with dusty conditions.
Whatever you use don’t use an acid based cleaner acids damage the aluminum fins and shorten the coil life.


Connecting a digital timer with 4 wires in a box with only three wire, white, black, and ground

Yes this is bad/dangerous because you now have current running on the ground wire at all times.  This type of timer requires a seperate neutral (whereas most switches just interrupt the hot) so that the timer can be powered when the switch is in the off position.

In your configuration, the line (power) comes in at the fixture and there is likely a 14/2 cable running to the switch for the sole purpose of interrupting the hot. The other configuration is where the line comes in at the switch which then sends power to the fixture when the switch is closed.

In order for you to use this type of timer, you need a dedicated neutral in the box with the switch.  You would need to replace the 14/2 cable with a 14/3 cable (extra conductor) so that you can have a dedicated neutral from the line, and then still switch the hot to control the light.

Depending on the position of the switch and fixture it may be easy enough to pull a new 14/3 cable.


How can I get my entry door to stay closed?

I had a door with many of the same issues. It turned out that the previous owner had done a shoddy job of door installation.

The first step I would recommend is to check the door to ensure that it is square. IF the door was not hung correctly, it could cause many of the issues you described.

It may not be the door itself but the door frame. If the door frame is out of square, you can try to adjust the reveal to remedy the situation.

I ended up just replacing my door, as I wasn't very fond of the previous door anyways. It was an afternoon well spent. My house is much better insulated, as the new door actually has a decent R factor.


I have a swinging garage gate that is hitting my driveway when open, how to mitigate?

If you angle the gate pivot slightly such that the line passing through the pivots is tilted slightly forward at the top, the gate will rise as it opens.  If you accomplish this offset on the gate side rather then the post side, the gate can still be vertical when closed, but that might take a bit of fabrication. For a small rise, it probably won't be very noticeable, but that depends on the length & height of the gate.


Insulation options for roof, looking into spray foam or batting

You first need to decide if you want the attic inside the HVAC envelope or not. Right now it's not, there's insulation on the attic floor (ceiling of floor below) capping the area to be heated there. That's most common/traditional. Making a "hot roof" and putting insulation on the inside of the sheathing would be instead of insulation on the attic floor.

Personally, I first air sealed the gaps in the attic floor and then put 22 inches of cellulose, plus added soffit vents. Made a big difference in energy costs.


Should I pour a footing and pier at the same time?

I am a site coordinator for a tower construction company based in Raleigh, North Carolina. I am currently working on a project where we pour pad and pier together (because it is fairly easy and is required by our engineering department). If you get your concrete appropriately thick (3 slump?), it should stack up into your Sonotube pier without blowing out.

You still want your rebar or reinforcement mesh to extend to within a few inches of the top and bottom. You should also vibrate and rod the concrete through the Sonotube and into the footing (but try not to rod all the way through to the ground).

If you strip the Sonotube when the concrete is still green (after a couple of hours), you can rub it to a nice finish with a block of wood, a stone float or even your hand. Rubbed concrete looks professional and is an easy application, if timed appropriately.


Well stoves aren't space heaters.  Remember that.

If you think your stove heats better, its probably due to your stove having 50 AMPS at 240V available to it.  That' 12,000 watts.

Any portable cheap electric space heater that you can plug in to mere common outlets will be limited to 1800 watts, but more often 1200 or 1350.

It's about the amount of energy available

Stoves have bigger wiring, bigger outlets, and access to more power.

In contrast my home electric furnace is hard wired and can draw up to 28,800 watts with an additional 2500 via the heat pump.

What it comes down to is this...

Heaters gonna heat

Install an appropriately sized heater.  If you want more heat you should buy one with a higher wattage rating, and it will probably need to be hardwired.  Don't use your stove for heating.


Replacing a 1963 GE 125 Amp, 240V service panel

Find a GE distributor in your area and have them order you a new INTERIOR for whatever their current product line is that matches your needs. The box dimensions haven't changed enough in 40 years to be a problem, a new interior (and cover) should drop right in.

You also have what's called a "split bus" installed there; the lower section of the panel is protected by a breaker in the upper section. There are two main reasons for this, one of which is not in play here, the other of which is something you need to determine if it applies.

The main reason for a "split bus" panel is to take advantage of what's called the "6 hand rule" meaning that if a firefighter needs to kill all power in your building, they only have to move their hand 6 times. So when a panel doesn't have a "Main Breaker" (as yours doesn't), then the top 6 spaces are all supposed to be 2 pole breakers, and one of those 2 pole breakers then feeds the bottom section where all the single pole breakers are. Your setup already violates that, you have 10 handles up top. Maybe that's because it has been changed by someone who didn't understand, who knows but that is already a violation if that was the original reason.

The other reason for doing a split bus is if you have a backup generator (or now a Solar Power system) in which you only want to power SOME of the loads when under the backup source. That too does not appear to be the case here because that typically needs to have some sort of interlocking system to isolate the unwanted parts of the system when connecting that backup source, and I don't see anything like that. But only you can tell for sure.

So in all likelihood you can get a more standard GE panel interior with enough spaces (20) and that will fit in that box. If it were me, I would get one with a Main Breaker now rather than rely on that 6 hand rule issue and trying to rearrange all of the circuits so that there are only 6 breakers on the upper half, but you may not have enough physical space in the box for that. If that's the case, you may just need to change out to a new box too. But GE has not changed the breakers themselves, so by sticking with GE you can re-use those and save yourself some money.


Do these pictures suggest mold is growing behind walls?

No.   But maybe.   You would be surprised how easy mold grows on the surface of a wall - especially sheetrock.   It certainly looks like there was/is some offset moisture from those pipes which looks like it has dried up.
While there is mold on the wall it isn't even that bad on this side which means it could be worse on the other side but me guesses that the water is from the pipes... not the other side.   So I would just scrape off the mold (sure hit it with bleach or whatever).   This is a good area that makes a point to use an oil based paint.
Probably the best thing to do is clean the area up, get the mold off and then check it every day or two.   There is no reason to open up the wall unless you can verify that the wall has remained dry, on your side and the mold progresses to grow more.


Am I likely to be able to run a circuit from this panel for an EV charger?

To answer your biggest question: I'm pretty sure it's not code-legal to tap into the feed from your meter panel with split-bolt connections. It's possible that your breaker panel has some lugs near the bottom of the load side bus bars to connect a feed to a subpanel, but most don't.

So a possible solution is what Doxy suggests: a new 100A panel that feeds your existing panel as a sub-panel. Before you consider that, I'd check to see if your panel type admits half-size tandem breakers. These are breakers that fit two half-size breakers into the space for one normal breaker, and this would free enough space for a 40A breaker to your EV charging circuit in the garage.

Another possible difficulty, though, is that your 100A service is awfully marginal for the addition for a 40A EV charging circuit. Although you didn't give all the relevant details, I assume your 1000 sq ft house (does this include the basement, if there is one?) has an electric dryer. In my jurisdiction, a load calculation shows you would require a 107A service. You may be able to get away with a 100A service, but it will depend on your inspector/permitting authority.


What's with the whole window thing? Why am I bothering with windows?

Let's approach from a different direction: increase of value to your house.

Any realtor or homeowner will tell you that certain things add value to your home, and others do not.  Even for things that add value, you will only expect to recoup "most" of the cost (since you are doing it for yourself and will only sell to someone else eventually).  For evidence, google the phrase "recouping cost of home improvement", and note that a well-done kitchen remodel of 20k will add maybe 16k to the value of your home.  A well-done addition or remodel is one which 'improves mass appeal' of your house, because then it's easier to sell and more people bid on it.

With all that in mind, I say:
skipping the window does offer short-term savings of a few grand or so,
but adding the window is an investment that makes your whole house worth more.


Is "bronze and silumin" mix actually possible in a ball cock?

Well, I cannot find a conclusive answer but I have a very educated guess.

Bronze is an alloy of mainly Copper(Cr) and an additive Tin(Sn). Silumin is an
Aluminum(Al) alloy with 12% Silicon(Si). It is highly resistive to corrosion under wet environments.

During the alpha phase of metalic cooling, rapid crystallization occurs that is visable under a microscope at 5 µm. I will spare this answer from the nitty-gritty but with the addition of Sn to a bronze alloy, the hardness increases by 55 on the Brinell test.

Ergo, if you added Silumin to Bronze, there by adding Si to bronze, you make is harder. So it is plausable to say this mixture is used for this application, especially since we are dealing with plumbing.

Spoke with my college chemistry prof. who agrees that this is an entierly possible mixture of transition metals.

(will post pictures once I find them)


Can I repurpose an HVAC circuit for shop outlets?

Short answer is yes, but... You might want to consider a small sub panel (outdoor rated) there if you have a 4 wire service to that location. That way, if your needs change (IE: grow), you'll have the power there.   There are lots of posts here regarding connecting a sub-panel... esp. the importance of separating the neutral from the ground in a sub-panel.

If you don't want the sub-panel, you'll probably need a junction box of some sort to connect the 8 ga to 12 ga. If aluminum you'll need special connectors and noalox compound on the AL.   In the main panel, you'll need to splice wires and downsize the breaker to 20 amps.

I think I got this right, but one of the "big three" might be able to improve on this answer.


How can I stop a toilet seat from rapidly loosening?

Nylon is self-lubricating. Even when tight it's very slippery against itself. You'll need to increase friction.

It may seem counter-intuitive, but you could apply some PTFE (Teflon) plumbing tape to the bolt threads. Even though PTFE is used as a lubricant, it'll thicken the thread diameter and create resistance to movement. Wrap 3-5 layers on the threads where the nut will rest, in the direction the nut tightens (clockwise from the end of the bolt).

You could also replace the nuts with brass or aluminum. They'll grab the bolt more aggressively. Be sure to use soft washers against the porcelain surface to prevent damage.

One other thing that can help is to reduce slide movement of the seat on the bowl. Install rubber washers under the seat bolts to create some grip.


When drilling a tiled wall, should I aim for the seams or avoid them?

I would buy a set of glass bits.  I linked to some cheap ones - no idea if they are great or not but probably doesn't matter.

It also doesn't matter if you do it on grout or tile - you need to anchor either way.

The key is to start with your smallest bit and work your way up to the hole size you need.  The tile breaks because of pressure.  By slowly increasing the hole size you are putting less force on it.


The two Phillip screws you clearly see hold the thermocouple for the temperature gauge. The two that look like rivets are probably screws that need to be removed with a socket or nut driver. Turn off the breaker for the oven. Verify oven's off by turning it on... the light's out so you can't use that. Remove those two screws with a socket or nut driver and pull out the element just enough to give you clearance to remove the light cover. Be careful not to pull out the element far enough to disconnect it from the wires behind it. Once the bulb is replaced, put the element back in place. good luck.


Can I still use a metal box if the cover plate mounting holes are stripped?

Answer: tap it out one size larger for 8/32 10/32.

Grandfather clause may over rule the following but figured you'd like to know....

First: That box is only rated for 18 21 cubic in. capacity.  You got at least 13 conductors, counting each switch as 2 conductors per Code.

14 AWG = 13 x 2.00 = 26 Cubic capacity
12 AWG = 13 x 2.25 = 29.25 Cubic capacity

Plus you're missing a ground jumper which counts as one conductor. (Devices have to be of the self-grounding type to omit bond jumper.)

The switch plate would need to add at least 5 cubic in. for it to work with 14 AWG. Otherwise, you'll need a 1900 box extension to pass muster

Lastly, you maybe wondering about using a larger course screw.  While this is a quick fix certain care should be followed not to allow the sharp threads to damage conductors and not to use a longer than necessary screw. NEC 314.23(B)(1) prohibits using screws and nails


The bolts no longer serve a purpose, so cut them off (using bolt cutters, hack-saw, angle grinder, etc.).

If you want the chairs to have some sort of pads then buy and attach new ones.
 You can get self-adhesive, or pads designed to attach with screws, bolts, rivets, etc.


What to do if the wall has too many repairs?

If i understand your question you just want to know if many patched holes compromise the structural integrity of the wall.
No the structure would not be compromised by many holes.
The wall itself may not have the integrity to hold photos or things hung on it but the wall is not going to fall over.
It is theoretically possible that if there were many holes very near each other and if someone pushed on that spot that it could give way resulting in a large hole, but the structure of the wall would still not be compromised.

Underneath the compound the support is gone (concrete, wood, etc.)

Drilling many holes anywhere in drywall does not mean the "supports"  holding it are gone, or compromised.
If your question is about trying to hang things where there are many holes then you need to EDIT your question to be clear on that point.


What to do when a toe-kick saw doesn't fit underneath cabinets?

Get one of the 'sonic tool' saws. That should fit. Buy 3-4 aggresive blades to cut that much floor.

Here's a link to one. There are many out there. Make sure you get a corded model, with the fastest 'rpms'.

https://www.rockwelltools.com/saws-sanders/sanders/sonicrafter-f80-oscillating-tool-rk5151k.html


Is there any risk of running both the fan and furnace at the same time?

Looks like you have a gas furnace. If so the furnace will fire and preheat the chamber before the fan engages. This help dissipate any cold air in the ductwork before it blows into the conditioned space.
On page 22, Note #12 of your schematics there is a 25 second delay for heating. For cooling there is only two seconds delay.
For heating, this would be CPU controlled once the proving switches are engaged. See drawings on page 22 look for LPS, LGPS and HPS. Sound like you are on the right track, just wait for the fan to cycle on.


Refridgerator evaporator not cooling enough to cool fridge

You'll need to evacuate all the air that leaked into the system.

The vacuum is also an opportunity test to see if the repair is done properly.

It's a similar process to refilling the AC in your car after it leaked so if you use the same fittings a car shop may let you rent/use their equipment.


Should I replace the window frame while installing replacement windows?

Unfortunately, the windows probably should have been addressed before the new siding went on. Doing the windows before putting on new siding would have given you the option of using new construction vinyl double hung with J-channel build into the frames. It also would make repairing or replacing rotted framing members much easier.

However, since you already have the new siding up (would like to see a pic of the window with the new siding in place) you may have to use replacement type windows. If you have rotted frames, those will have to be replaced and the new replacement windows sized to the opening AFTER the frame is fixed. Of course you can carefully calculate the opening based on what you intend to use to reframe the opening, but that can be risky for an amateur. Keep in mind, replacement windows usually have to be ordered to you exact size and are not returnable if you measure them wrong.  Always a good move to have supplier measure and order the windows for you.  After you install the new replacement windows, you may have to install some new extension jams and exterior trim in order to fit snugly to the new siding. Don't forget to use Ice & Water shield under the finish frame/ over rough opening framing and caulk all areas where water could possibly get in.


Can an 8" rigid duct be split into two 6“ flex ducts

Yes splitting an 8” duct to 2 separate 6” ducts is an appropriate size transition, since it is a master the air will be going to the same areas while the bathroom door is open. I usually add dampers to all my vents it costs more but makes balancing easier.


How do I glue glass top to a wooden base

Suction cups are used with success in this situation.  Search for "glass table suction cups".  The cups have a small cylindrical nub that sits in a hole you will have to drill for each cup. You should only need about four.  With the suction cups, the table would be secure, would have some (minimal) give when struck, and would be easy to replace.


How should I secure NM wire that someone ran outside of two studs?

Joe, the metal Simpson plates are for exactly that purpose put them on every 2x4 over the wire. Don't cut the wire or you'll have to add in a j-box, actually 2 of them.


Why is the hot water in my tub fluctuating between hot, warm and cold?

There could be multiple reasons.  In order of likeliness.
As a safety feature there are anti scald features of those faucets.  Roman style tubs move a high amount of water and very possible there is a mixing valve upstream that is opening when the water is hot. Very quickly the hot water is evacuated and the mixing valve closes. Slowly heats up and the cycle repeats
Or
Incorrect cartridge in the tub faucet handles.  Perhaps they installed the hot cartridge on the cold set and vice verse.

Or

Poor insulation on the piping but this would give te symptom of a long amount of cold then warm with eventual hot water.

I'd say rhe first solution is most likely.  You can try and fill the tub at a slow rate with both handles open. The hot more than the cold.

Either way if you can find the mixing valve. Perhaps near the jacuzzi access panel or a nearby access box in the wall or under a sink you can possibly adjust the controls to allow higher temperatures. Keeping the mixing valve from opening as often.  But this may not be so in an apartment building it could very well be in a mechanical room under he buildings maintenance control.

Also the other faucets don't exhibit this due to he flow control aerators keeping flow rates down in the 1gpm range depending on local code.


Something to look at is the pilot flame itself. It is often adjustable by removing a small screw cover marked plt.adj. or something similar. The thermocouple should be fully immersed and the flame should not be lifting.


Create new patio door in basement by cutting concrete

I would hire a structural engineer or an architect to draw up plans so you know exactly what you will need to do. You need to know just what you can cut and the loads involved including any prep work and temporary building support.


TV Arcs with Cablebox through both Coax and HDMI

Near where the service enters the house, you should see a grounding block similar to this.

The coaxial cable from the pole/dish/mast should be connected to one side, and the coaxial cable feeding to the house should be on the other side. The screw terminal should have an insulated copper wire, larger than 14 AWG, and shorter than 20' (6 m) attached.  The other end of this wire should be attached to either:

The Intersystem Bonding Termination.
The grounding electrode system.
The grounded interior metal water piping system, within 5' (1.5 m) from the point of entrance to the building.
The metallic power service raceway.
The service equipment enclosure.
The grounding electrode conductor.
Or where the building has no grounding means, to an approved grounding electrode.

If the service is not grounded at the house, it could be (and likely is) at a different voltage potential than the grounding system in your house.


How to fix sagging composite deck railing

Should be pretty simple. You just need a way to gently raise the railing up enough to get the block underneath. I would do this slowly over a number of days and raise it the absolute minimum amount. Once you get there, slide the block underneath, slowly remove the support, and you're done.


Replacing Furniture Cam Dowel & Lock Pin

Many places call them Cam Connectors ( see: http://www.homedepot.com/s/cam%2520Connecter?NCNI-5 ) and Cam Screws ( see: http://www.homedepot.com/s/cam%2520screw?NCNI-5 ) or take Michael Karas' lead and check out the "Customers who bought this item also bought" section for other offers.


Replaced bathroom ceiling light and now permanently switched on trips switch if flicked

Well you can see how they set this up.   The old lamp goes into the back side of terminals 2 and 4, and that's it, done.   I have no idea what would possess you to mess with any other wires, in the photo it's right.

Left to right the four terminals are

always-hot (from supply, to other load, and to switch)
neutral (from supply, to other load) and on the other side to lamp.
earth (from supply, to other load, to switch, and to rose)
switched-hot (from switch) and on the other side to lamp.

Put it back and you should be fine.

The odd little white splice simply appears to be because the black wire is too short.


Do I need to do more prep work on this cement floor before putting in new tile?

The paper backing can be cleaned off with a solvent paint stripper and then wash the old glue off with trisodium phosphate and a scrub brush. Then wash several times with water to remove the residue of both operations. Tile thin set in most cases may not adhere to old glue, especially if you have to use unmodified thin set because you are planning on using an uncoupling membrane like DITRA.


I have a marble vanity that needs to be trimmed off

That toilet should be able to be removed without disturbing the shelf return on the vanity top. Generally speaking the toilet only needs to lift about two inches to clear the hold down bolts. There is more than enough space below the shelf for that......and just in case it was not you can remove the tank cover to gain an additional 1.5 inches or so.


If you damaged the conductor, tape doesn't help. The sharp edges and reduced cross-section result in concentrated resistance, which creates heat. In a max-current scenario it could burn and arc. That means sparks and potentially fire.

If you can determine that the conductors and their individual wire insulation weren't damaged, tape could be a viable (if not strictly legal) solution for repairing the outer jacket. Otherwise, replace the cable. You don't need an electrician to run a new cable between the fan and the switch box, for example.


How should I patch a large hole in brick?

This is the procedure:

(1) Have a REAL bricklaying-mason repair hole. Holes in brick are repaired with brick. Do not hire an idiot. It is harder to repair a brick wall than to build a brick wall.

(2) Drill 3/4" hole through wall.

(3) Put electrical conduit through wall.

(4) Seal conduit with approved material to make completely air and water tight.

(5) Mount all-weather electrical outlet to outside of wall attached to conduit..


Two big risks.

One, they excavate properly but do not backfill properly.  This will cause settling over time to your foundation. (Highly likely)

Two, they do not excavate properly and dirt falls from under your foundation during excavation causing immediate damage (unlikey, but possible)

Have them excavate the basement for shotcreting (excavation is held off your foundation at least a foot or so), and then shotcrete the foundation walls instead of a stand form and pour.  This eliminates both problems.


Is there a product that provides a switch for diverting water through a different set of pipes?

Sounds like you're looking for a 3-way ball valve. Inasmuch as your use has one source and two destinations, the source would go to the middle port of this valve and the destinations would be fed from either side. (image from supplyhouse.com)

It seems one of your concerns with using two ordinary valves is the possibility that the pump could be turned on while both valves are closed. There exist "tamper" or "supervisory" switches that can be fitted to valves, or valves with the switch built-in, to provide electrical indication whether the valve is open or closed. The electrical output could be used to inhibit pump operation. These valves are often used in fire sprinkler applications.
Another way to deal with the problem of two valves both being closed is to set up a high pressure cut-out to stop the pump when pressure rises too high.


How do I retrofit a junction box in an insulated wall?

I think you'll have to get one of these vapor barrier boxes, and fit it before installing your electrical box.

Seal up where the cable penetrates, then install your electrical box.

The other options would be to cut a larger hole and patch drywall, or seal it up from the back side (but that would require access to the other side of the wall/ceiling).


I had a similar problem with a Siemens IQ500 (Error E18). A reason for that sound might be that water isn't reaching the drain pump, so it's speeding up, getting stopped and restarted every few seconds. But that's just a guess.
A few things could cause that draining error:

Clean the drain filter.

Check if the drain hose is bent. Washing machines sometimes move, so they can bend the drain hose until water cannot go through anymore.

Connect another hose to the drain and let some water flow through it to make sure the drain itself isn't cloaked.

The drain pump might be corrupted or blocked. Try turning it with your fingers (it's right behind the drain filter). Doubt that's it though since you can still hear it running.

The outflow of the washing drum or the pipe between washing drum and drain pump might be clogged - are you missing any socks lately? :) That'd explain the sound you're hearing - water cannot reach the drain pump. You'll have to remove the front cover to get there though. Once you've removed the pipe you should be able to see (or feel) if there's something blocking the outflow of the washing drum (also a 20 EUR WiFi endoscope camera can be very helpful for checking if there are things inside the washing drum). If there's a sock stuck in the outflow of the washing drum, you can use a piece of thin copper or steel wire to push it out (stick it through the little holes in the washing drum).

In my case the problem was caused by case 5. I pulled out 4 different things the washing machine has eaten over time.


How can I extend the rough-in drain away from the wall?

Yes, the solvent welded elbow above the trap does makes things challenging. How excited are you to completely remove the old trap and elbow?

It's likely the connection can be made using the existing trap. Swing it a little to either side, cut the old riser short, and use a pair of 45° elbows to make a jog in the riser to align with the new sink tail piece. Or, use a flexible section rather than fixed elbows.

If completely removing the old trap and elbow is your preference it can be done mechanically or with heat.

The mechanical method is to cut off the elbow at the base of the socket. Next, grind or sand away what's left of the elbow on the pipe. Take care not to cut too deeply. A rotary tool such as a Dremel works well.

The heat method is to warm the fitting with a heat gun. At some point the PVC makes a transition from solid to rubbery. When it reaches that point it can be massaged and tugged with a wrench or maybe a gloved hand. This breaks the solvent-weld bond between the fitting and the pipe inside. The pipe temperature will not lag far behind the elbow temperature, though, so it takes some care to work the elbow off without deforming the pipe too.


How do I repair this leaking toilet supply nut?

There will indeed be some type of rubber, silicone or other type of flexible materal washer thing inside the nut. The cross section picture below attempts to show how the typical compression fitting of this type works.

As the nut tightens it compresses the "rubber" part against the end of the threaded plastic piece and around the outside of the incoming water line. Leaks can arise as from this "rubber" part getting hard and inflexible. The chorine added to water can accelerate this this problem. Over tightening the compression nut will also lead to problems. Sometimes a corrosive build up on the water tube can also lead to leak issues. Usually it is combination of all three elements and everything is OK till there is some flexure in the joint and then it starts to leak.

To fix it is suggested to replace the compression nut and the "rubber" part. If the inlet tubing is corroded then clean it up with steel wool. If the plastic threaded part is stripped from previous over tightening then you will also have to replace the fill valve assembly in the tank too. You should be able to find replacement parts at hardware or home stores. Replacement parts are usually fairly reasonable in cost.


How to apply plaster to a plaster damaged drywall section

First of all, plaster and drywall are two very different things.  Please use the correct terms.
It appears from the photo that you have damaged drywall, that looks like it may have been improperly patched in the past.  While you could try to fix this using drywall compound, that will be a very difficult thing to make it stick and look good over such a large area.
The usual way to fix something like this is to REMOVE a section of the drywall, fit a new piece of drywall in the void, and then use drywall tape and drywall compound to blend the edges into the existing wall surface.


Can I branch off of 1/4" copper tubing to a standard hose connector?

You branch off from the copper tubing with a 1/4" compression tee. Cut out a small section of tubing for which the tee replaces. You must use a tubing cutter to do this, any other method will cause the tube to become oval.

Install the short piece removed on the side outlet of the tee. Attach a 1/4" compression x 1/2" pipe thread adapter to the short section. If you can find a tee with a pipe thread side outlet (preferred), skip the previous step.

Connect a 1/2" pipe thread to hose adapter. When buying parts, ensure the male and female parts mate correctly. If you can't find the proper mates, get a short nipple or coupler to change gender. Use several layers of teflon tape on male pipe threads, wrapped in the direction that causes it to get more snug when the pipe is screwed in.

Attach hose and controller. After all this, there probably isn't much pressure left, meaning you could probably transition from hose to 1/4" drip fittings for the run from controller to plants, keeping the installation less obtrusive. If you use pressure adaptive drip fittings, you can better regulate the flow to each plant, otherwise the first plant will get the most water, the last hardly any.

Be careful, though unlikely in this case, as high pressure can cause drip fittings to blow apart. You also can't use most pressure reducers, as they can spill water as they function. You'll probably have to go from hose to 1/2" drip main to 1/4" drip distrubution. The 1/2 to 1/4 punched connection can leak slightly, so it should be done over the first plant.


How can I fasten nuts in narrow places when installing a faucet?

What you're after is a tool called a basin wrench:

It can reach up behind the sink and tighten those nuts.


What are these devices outside my patio door?

The one on the left is a remote thermohydrometer. It reads the air temperature and humidity and transmits the data to a weather station.

The one on the right could be a similar device, or else a short-range transmitter that repeats one of your utility meters so the meter man can read it from his van as he drives by.

You should do a network search (eg Google) for the words written on the device.


How do I dry out a damp patch in my subfloor?

You say, "The tar paper between the subfloor and hardwood was also damp."  I don't see the "tar paper". You MUST have a moisture barrier.

However, your question is about drying the area out. I agree with @isherwood, keep a fan blowing on it and it will dry out faster. However, be aware that the rapid drying could warp the oak flooring. To minimize this problem, I'd re-assemble the oak boards to keep the boards straight.

Btw, I'm surprised I don't see "damaged" edges along the edges of the oak flooring from being nailed in place.

Also, I thought this type of floor needed to be installed on "sleepers".


I'll echo the other comments, in a slightly modified manner. The idea of 100 feet continuous is not necessarily a valid interpretation. 4 x 25 still provides 100 feet. Accordingly, stacking can refer to horizontal placement, rather than one atop the other. This was confirmed by my contractor upon a recent field replacement. Depending on your local codes, the 100 feet doesn't have to be monolithic. If the lot requires it, a pair of 25 footers side-by-side linked to another location containing another pair would still qualify.


Puzzled installing combination GFCI outlet/switch to replace switch in old house

Two devices in one package can make for twice the confusion

GFCI/switch combinations are a common cause of DIY confusion, as they have more, and more varied, connections than most other electrical devices one can get at the hardware store.

In your case, you have the GFCI portion wired correctly, but the switch is what has you down.  It's actually nothing special, just a plain single pole switch with no internal connections whatsoever to the GFCI.  However, you seem to have your hots, neutrals, and grounds confused with regards to the switched load.  What they mean by "The LOAD must be properly connected to NEUTRAL and grounded." has nothing to do with the wiring in the GFCI box -- in fact, the wiring of the switch to neutral and ground is why the switched load isn't working right now!  It simply means that the load itself must be wired correctly and not in a bizarro way (such as across two hots, from hot to ground(eek!), or with a switched neutral).  In fact, right now, the load can't work because there's no voltage across it with one end wired to the neutral (and ground) and the other wired back to that same neutral.

To get this all working I would:

Disconnect the switch-wire going to the white wire bundle from the white wire bundle, and remove the pigtail from the switch/black wire #3 junction to ground.
Cap off black wire #2 by itself since you don't yet know where it leads.  (Sooner or later, you'll find the thing that doesn't work, and then you'll know what that black wire was feeding.)
Connect one black wire from the switch in with black wire #1 and a black pigtail to the GFCI's LINE HOT terminal.
And connect the other black wire from the switch to black wire #3.


Toilet bowl fills and overflows but the tank won't fill

It sounds like there are two problems.  You seem to have a clog in the sewer line slowing the flow of water.  You said it finally drains after a while.

You also said the tank won't fill.  This sounds like either the flapper is not seating properly, there is a leak between the bowl and tank, or the float has stopped working.

You might need to snake the sewer line if a plunger isn't working.  For the flapper and float, those may need to be replaced.  Mine seem to go out after about 4-5 years.


How can you program a Liftmaster garage door opener when there is no "B" button?

I just installed a new Chamberlain opener. The only difference between Chamberlain, LiftMaster and Crafstman brands are the color and the name printed on them. (i.e., they're all made by Chamberlain.) Having a program/learn button on the wall-mounted, wired remote was a novelty for me, as neither of my previous 2 openers had that.
As jay613 noted in his comment, mine also has programming/adjustment buttons under one of the light covers on the motor, just like both of my old ones did. I'm quite certain that yours will, as well, and you can use those buttons just like you would use the buttons on the wall-mount remote.
Once you figure out how to get the first remote programmed, (check out their website for your model, or, if necessary, hit up their online chat - they're quite helpful - they'll even wait while you run from the computer to the garage to try their instructions), programming additional remotes is exactly the same process. You can program wall-mounted, battery-powered numeric keypad remotes (you know, mount it outside the garage door, enter a code, garage door opens); visor mounted 1-, 2- or 3-button remotes; you can even program it to respond to the HomeLink buttons (usually) on the sun visor of your car (if it's so equipped). I'm sure there's an upper limit to how many remotes it will respond to, but I'm at 5 and haven't hit it.


How can I repair a chewed-through power cable?

By all common sense you should not try to splice an appliance cord to make it longer. What you should really do is to open up the appliance and remove the remaining chewed off chunck of cord. This may require you to free any type of cord retainers and / or strain reliefs.

Then a new cord of ratings same as the original should be installed in place of the old one. It can be very handy to purchase a ready made extension cord that has nice molded ends on it (rated properly of course) and cut the socket end off of it and use the remaining part to wire into the heater.

Sometimes you will find that inside the appliance the wires may be attached with some type of crimp on terminals. These types of terminals are generally available at hardware stores but if you cannot find exactly what you need check online at retailers such as Digikey or Mouser.


As drawn, your left switch will operate your switched outlets, the right switch will operate the lights attached to the top-right cable, and any lights attached to the top-middle cable will be always-on.

Assuming what you want is for the left switch to operate the lights attached to the top-middle cable, the right switch to operate the lights attached to the top-right cable, and for the outlets to be always-on, you need to connect things more like this:

I've not drawn neutrals or grounds.  All the white wires should be connected together; they will all be acting as neutrals.  The grounds should be connected as in your original diagram.


That little washer looking thing on top at the copper pushes down. Use a wrench the size of the copper tubing to push it down to release its hold on the copper.


Where should the floor transition from tile to carpet go?

If there's a door, under the door, directly.

Otherwise, either dead center or even with one edge or the other.  If there's no door, I'd say bring the carpet up to the edge of the tile, rather than cutting the tile to meet in the middle.

That said - it's a purely aesthetic choice.


Why do electrical devices use such small wire?

Circuit wire is kept relatively large because general purpose receptacles are just that: general purpose.  You can plug a nightlight into them one moment and a kilowatt hairdryer the next.

In a fixture, luminaire, or appliance, on the other hand, the designers can use thinner wire (down to 18AWG for fixture wire as per NEC 402.6) as they know how much current will ever flow through there -- the appliance or fixture only needs a certain amount of current, never more (unless there's a fault, which is why you have fuses in appliances).


It depends on how badly damaged the pipe is, but it can be re-threaded with a pipe die.  I would replace the pipe nipple coming out of the gas valve.  I would look at how the gas valve is mounted to the dryer before trying to remove the damaged nipple.  Some have poor mounting and could damage the gas valve.  You may need to remove the valve before removing the nipple from it.  With either option, I would test for leaks by spraying soapy water on the joints after you turn the gas back on and looking for bubbles.


Should I install a vapour barrier if I'm using rigid foam insulation?

Rigid foam insulation is usually a qualified vapor barrier. However, an installation between the studs can pose a challenge. To complete the vapor barrier you would want to foam-seal or tape all the sides where the rigid meets timber, because these gaps will facilitate vapor flow.


How should I connect the wiring for a Rheem A/C motor?

Left as an answer because the basic info is here that can be figured out without the actual motor wiring print and two long for a comment.
Can you get a clear photo of the motor wiring diagrams I can not read them on my phone.
I am in a remote site today and only have my phone connection. I can read the schematic (it’s upside down).
From what I see the original fan is single speed.
One wire goes to line side of the motor this wire connects to a temp switch and a relay.
the other 2 wires go to the start capacitor one goes to the C connection on the cap or common.
the last wire Goes to the F connection on the cap.
The new motor being multi tapped may also have a rotation with a clear photo of that we may be able to figure out the colors but it won’t be hard.
as 2 wires go directly to the cap one goes to the sensor /contactor then the line side I really need a clear photo of the motor schematic as they are all different.
Edit this may be enough info to finish the connections.
Another quick look at the wires in the photo purple and purple white are probably the cap and cap common look at the wires where they attach to the cap, the c terminal I would guess is the purple with the white stripe and the F terminal just purple , then the red would go to the line connection on the motor but I can not tell without a clear photo. I am guessing the motor connections you made were for rotation.


What is the largest size an opening can be in a load bearing wall without a beam install

If you don't touch the load bearing elements (the vertical studs) you can make all the holes you want.

Once you need to cut one of the load bearing studs you will need to make sure the load that it carried is properly redistributed.


Run additional wire from junction box to existing light switch?

You may only use wire which is legal for wiring in your country (I am presuming USA and thus National Electrical Code).  The NEC allows many types of wire, but as a practical thing, it boils down to two types:  Multi-conductor cable, typically NM aka Romex; and single-conductor wire used in conduit, typically THWN.

You are dealing with solid wire, which is stiff.  For a much more flexible wire, stranded wire is available.  However, Romex is not available in stranded.  Each of your devices must be rated for the strandedness of your wire. (for instance "back stab" connections found on very cheap components are rated for solid wire only).

Neutral must be in the same multi-conductor cable, or the same conduit/raceway, as the other conductors.  You cannot retrofit a neutral to a multi-conductor cable.

If those boxes are connected by conduit, then each of the wires is a single conductor. You can simply pull (or shove) an additional neutral wire through the conduit.

If those boxes are connected by flexible cable, then you will need to pull an entire, additional multiconductor cable between the two boxes.  You have two ways to go.
- Pull a 12/3 or 14/3 cable to replace the existing cable.  This will include hot, switched hot, and neutral.
- Pull an additional 12/2 or 14/2 cable alongside the existing cable.  Cable A will carry always-hot and neutral for the switch and lamp.  Cable B will carry switched-hot and neutral for the lamp. This means when the switch is on, neutral will make a seemingly redundant round-trip between the boxes.  This is required by Code, and for good reason.

You don't need a plumbing snake.  They make "fishing tape" specifically for electricians, used for a variety of hat-tricks to route flexible cable through existing finished work in residences.  Generally in commercial work, everything is in metallic conduit, so any conduit they plan to use must be installed before walls are finished.

If you are starting into electrical work and plan to stay awhile, I'd encourage you early to get acquainted with your local Electrical Supply House.  This is the sort of place that's open from 7am to 6pm and at 7am, the parking lot is full of electricians' trucks.  Electricians are smart people and are perfectly capable of finding the local Home Depot; they buy from electrical supply houses because the pricing is roughly equal and the support and selection is a LOT better.


It's an old photovoltaic sensor, possibly for exterior  light control.


1 switch controls lights and fan, the other controls nothing. How can I make one control lights and one control the fan?

86 volts sounds like you might have an open neutral, and you're reading backfeed through a load somewhere.  Time to call an electrician - usually this sort of thing happens because a white wire on 2 conductor cable had been used for a switch leg, but somebody went into a box and went color to color putting wires back together, which opens the normal return leg for current. It could be the box pictured, or your ceiling box for the fan/light, or something you haven't looked at yet. A tone tracer [breaker off] and some detective work will find it - the last thing messed with is the first place to look.  Meanwhile, make a note of everything that does not work to help out: lights and receptacles.  Plug in a cell phone charger or whatever to outlets to see if they're good.  Open neutrals can be a rattlesnake for the unexperienced: just because something doesn't work does not mean it can't shock you.


Worth it to just clear coat a marginally beat-up wood floor?

I am a firm believer in doing it right the first time. The most expensive part of this type of job is the urethane. Good quality oil based urethane can go $50 to $90 per gallon. you really need at least three coats to do the job properly, with a light sanding between coats.

If you take the time to sand the floors now, get them in a good condition, balance the color if necessary, then put on 3 or 4 coats of oil based quality floor urethane, you will amazed how well they will hold up to kids and pets.  The other advantage is that spills, surface scratches and normal wear and tear can be easily repaired a few years from now with a light sanding and a couple fresh coats of urethane.

The disadvantage of doing a quicky overcoat now over a damaged floor is that it will be much harder to sand, a lot messier later to remove all the urethane and surface damage on the wood. The job will take a lot longer and any $$$ you spent on urethane will be wasted.

If you do it right now, you will enjoy a nicer looking durable floor now and the freshening 3 to 5 years from now will be simple and fast.


Bond CSST to Water Pipe - Allowed in 2017 NEC 250.104(B)?

The gas system only needs to be bonded at one point

Bonding the black iron at the meter to a legal bonding point (anywhere on the grounding electrode system, basically, using a listed tap connector such as an ILSCO GTT-2-2 to connect the gas bond wire to the GEC, or simply by landing the gas bond wire on the intersystem bonding termination device if one is present) will suffice for bonding the entire gas system; there is no need for an extra bond point for the CSST if the system is already bonded, as per this tech bulletin.

Or in short, simply connect the bonding wire at the meter to a suitable bonding point on the electrical system (not the water system, though!), as you don't have to worry about bonding the CSST separately.


What are switches activated by a closet door called?

There are two styles that I've seen:

"Automatic closet lights" that mount at the top of the door and include the light socket.

And "push button door switches" that are mounted in the door jamb and connect to a hardwired light fixture.


Receptical Box located In bottom kicthen cabinet

A /3 cable like that can mean 3-way switch, or a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit (probably not), or a half-switched receptacle (with red being switched-hot) e.g. for dishwasher/disposal.  It might be both at once; dishwasher+disposal are often on a MWBC.

An octagon box like that is usually for lights. None of the other knockouts appear to be removed.  It's possible to put a receptacle in an octagon box with a special magic cover plate.

However it can't be a GFCI recep.  I have seen pictures of similar cover plates with Decora format openings, however, I have my suspicion they're not legit. Regardless, GFCI receps are very bulky and will not fit inside that box.  Put the GFCI device somewhere "upstream" (closer to the panel) - if necessary in the panel as a GFCI breaker. Given the age of the work you might also choose AFCI+GFCI dual mode.  AFCI protects against bad wires starting fires.

It's unlikely it is grounded.  However it might be using an armored cable wiring method that brings ground on the cable armor.  If so, the case would be ground. You ground devices either with hard flush bare metal contact with the box, or, you run a pigtail off the hole tapped #10-32 in the back of the box.  It appears that hole is being used by the screw on the left, so move the screw farther left.


Car in driveway is source of garage door opener interference

This may be caused by the air pressure sensors in your tires (TPMS). They operate at 315 MHz. Some garage door opener remotes operate at 315 MHz. If that's the case the troubleshooting procedures outlined above will not work because the sensors have their own internal battery. Although I would try disconnecting the battery first just because it's so easy to do and will rule out anything involved with the car electronics. If that doesn't do it then you can try removing the tires from the vehicle and get them far enough away from the garage door and see if that solves it. One tire might have a rogue sensor causing the problem.

I would also ask you neighbors to try new batteries in their remote so it sends out a stronger signal.


The real answer is to replace the post. But if you need a quick fix, perhaps a couple of braces would work. I think that a wood post anchor might work too, if you can slip it over or under the post (maybe it's too late for that).


How to connect 14 guage speaker wire to LED light strips?

There are several types of reducer insulated crimp connectors that can be used for this. The one shown below is for #14-16 to #18-22. This will fit through holes that you might have to drill going from cabinet to cabinet. These will work for your 12 volt runs but don't even think about splicing your 120 volt runs. This crimping tool is inexpensive and can be used for many different connectors. You might have to get your plugs and add some #18 to 20 gauge wire to them and then splice to your #14. You also could remove some strands of your speaker wire so it fits into the plugs. You could never do this with any household 120/240 volt wiring but would be OK for the 12 volt led fixtures


Here is a pretty quick explanation.

Starting from where the water will enter the drain and ending where the water will flow out, dig a ditch that's about 10 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Keep in mind that you will need to dig deeper if your starting point slopes upward.

Lay about 2 inches of rock into the trench before placing the pipe lengthwise into the ditch.

Cover the pipe with another layer of rocks, again about 2 inches.

Fill in the remaining space with soil and then plant some grass.

Here is a pretty good video, which also shows it's a good idea to add a clean-out.
They also say you should not use flexible corrugated perforated plastic drain pipe, because it cannot be cleaned like rigid pvc can be.


Is it possible to remove and replace base molding, and not have to repaint the wall?

I think there is a claim there, not well founded, but a claim. Of course the insurance companies are trying to keep the payout down as low as possible. There is always a chance for wall damage but extreme care in removal will lessen the chances.

Carefully score the caulk at the junction where the base and wall meet. Start with a light cut first, using a sharp blade, that cut alone may do most of what is needed. On the heavier areas of caulk it will take a repeated pass or passes. Try to hold the blade vertical enough to really get behind the base a little. There is a chance of leaving a mark from the knife at this angle so again, be careful. You can also wrap the part of the knife that is prone to hitting the wall with tape so it will not leave a mark.

Next use a thin blade pry bar, together with a 4" wide drywall taping used as a shield to protect the drywall as the small pry bar is pushed or driven in. Do this ONLY at the studs! Watch carefully as the base is moving away, there is a chance that the caulk may still try to pull the drywall face off along with the paint. Recut where you see this occurring. After the base is away from the wall about 3/4" to 1' away change over to the larger bar to free the nails from the wall completely. Start this operation at a door where the trim meets the wall where possible, score that joint with a razor knife too.

The three illustrated are the small bars sold in a pack at your local hardware stores

This is the larger bar, maybe 16" long. Whenever you use a bar to pry material from a finish wall always do what you can to let the pressure on the wall be on the section hidden by the base. In other words, using the small bars, with the flat end in pry the top curved end away from the wall, the tip behind the base and the damage that occurs will not be seen. I know this is really elementary but it is for the next step I go this way. When the bar is turned around, or the curved end of the larger bar is used, with enough gap the "heel" of the bend will still be behind the base and against the wall to pull up on the bar and it will pull out any ornery nail that does not want to give up.

Edit

The bar on the left has a bend that is really not appropriate for the base removal. If you set the end behind the base to pull it off the extra bend will bind against the base you are trying to remove. The bar on the right, my favorite of all pry bars, will go behind the base and the heel, when the long end is pulled up on, the short end will drop behind the base low enough to engage the wall behind the base so it will not even need a protecting layer, putty knife or wood or what have you.

End edit

If the base is tight to the floor, that helps a bit. When you reinstall, preferably new base, you can either hold the base up a little higher, say 1/4" up, than the way it was originally installed. That hides the old caulk line therefore a better chance of looking like an original install after recaulk and painting. Shoe mold will cover the slight gap. Or install a taller base to do the same thing. Example, if your base is 3 1/4" tall, replace with the 4 1/4" tall version of the same.


Why do old toggle switch leads read 40VAC?

Yes, a new 15A-120VAC switch will certainly work in a lower-voltage application.

Regarding the voltage across the switch leads, 40VAC is a very mysterious reading. Could the current actually be DC (for a thermostat perhaps)? I'd want to figure out what the switch was supposed to control:

Visually trace the wiring from the switch, if possible
Are the wires normal 12 or 14-gauge thickness? If so, it's probably supposed to be a light or outlet switch.
Can you isolate the circuit by process of elimination? Are there other lights or receptacles on the same circuit that can give you a clue about what this switch is for?
How many wires are available in the switch box? If there are only two, then check the voltage of each against ground. One should be 120VAC (supply) and one unenergized.
You can check your hypothesis that the old switch was broken by testing for continuity in the switch's ON state.

It's entirely possible that this switch is wired to a circuit that is no longer useful, or perhaps that the wires aren't actually connected to anything and what your meter is picking up is an induced electrical current due to current in adjacent cables. Without determining what this switch was originally intended for, it will be hard to explain the voltage reading, and hard to know whether the old switch was broken, or whether the wiring was disconnected.


All the units are in English

These are English, Imperial, or more technically ANSI (A for American) fasteners. They are not metric.

The holes that are slightly large of 6mm are actually for 1/4" bolts.  As they say, the bolts are 1-1/4" long.  Typically this will be 1/4-20 unless there is an extraordinary need for strength.   Since they are bolt-nut pairs, you may be able to substitute 6mm, but the 1-1/4" length will still be essential.  " means inch, by the way.

For the 5/16 and 3/8, that figure is the length.  Most likely that is a #10 or possibly #12 screw.   The smaller screws are most likely #6 or #8.

If you see threads precut in the holes, they are machine screws and the matchup is critical, you cannot substitute metric fasteners. Keep in mind machine screws come in different thread pitch: coarse (NC) and fine (NF).  These two are standards, and everyone follows them, unlike metric lol!
If you do not see threads precut in the holes, then get a micrometer and measure the precise diameter of the receptive (rearmost) hole. Then ask US companies what sheet metal screw is best for that.


Can I use post being sunk for a sail shade as corner support for a deck?

No.  Deck beams must have bearing (direct support underneath).  They can not be supported via side connections.

It looks like from the image that you are trying to support deck beams on the 6x6 post without bearing at the post.  If these are meant to be beams then they must have something under them at the bearing point.  A side through bolted connector for a beam to post connection is not approved for decks.  I assume that the reason is the through bolt connection or wood could degrade under weather and is much safer if it is actually resting directly on a post (still requires connections).

The following guide lays out how to design/size beams for your deck in a prescribed manner.  The joists that span between beams can be connected via hangers and don't require direct bearing (something underneath).  If you vary away from the prescriptions in the guide then you'd need an engineer to approve of your variations.

See figure 9, prohibited post to beam connection.

https://awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf

Probably the best thing to do is to upsize to 8x8 undressed (not nominal), then notch the post for direct bearing of a single beam.  I am assuming just a 2 member beam so you'd have to integrate that into the spans of your deck.  The joists that span between this beam and your ledger do not require direct bearing (see figure 8A).  Then to prevent a weak area in the 8x8 I'd get a 2 pieces of 1/4" thick steel 3x the height of your beam so if you have a 2x12 beam then 11.5x3 = 34.5".  I'd take the steel and laminate it on the beam notch side and the non notch side and bolt it together that way any forces from the sail or your railing assuming you are integrating a railing are transferred past the weak spot in the post.

Good luck.


Old house, no Neutral coming from APS pole. Neutral vs Ground

What comes down from the pole is actually 2 hots and a neutral. The power company does not deliver ground; you are expected to supply that yourself from your own ground rods.

We don't want neutral flying up to wild voltages (say: due to a transformer leak or something), so we clamp neutral's voltage to near ground voltage.  We do that with a neutral-ground equipotential bond in the main service panel, and ONLY there.  Everywhere else, neutral needs to be separate from ground or else bad things will happen.

So, your main panels intakes: Hot1, hot2 and neutral from the power company, plus ground from your Grounding Electrode System.   You bond the last two.  Then to your appliances you output hot, neutral, and safety ground.


How can I reduce the humidity in my home?

If your house is too humid, it's because too much moisture is entering it. To fix that, you need to find the source of the moisture and reduce or eliminate it.

There are lots of places the moisture could be coming from. Humid air might entering your house from your crawlspace or basement (especially if you get water pooling after heavy rains), leaks in your roof, or leaky pipes are all common causes.


What does the low limit do, and where should it be set on an oil fired hot water furnace?

The low limit typically shuts down the circulators when the boiler (if it has a water temperature, it's not a furnace) temperature drops too low. If the boiler is operational but tasked beyond its capacity, it will catch up and the circulators restart - if not, the house gets cold and you hopefully call for service.

Typically the boiler will specify that it should never be below 120F (if it is, corrosion is a problem) and the low limit will be set somewhat above that.

It is well worth (and often legally required and/or good for your insurance) having a professional inspection/service/adjustment done at least once a year. Understanding what your boiler does is good - adjusting it yourself is dubious, at best. If it's not working correctly, there may be parts which are not working correctly and in need of replacement, rather than self-adjustment.

As for the pressure, the pressure on a hot water boiler should not move significantly. There is an expansion tank which should be adequate for thermal expansion control, and otherwise the water in the system does not change pressure, unless you happen to have VERY sensitive gauges (you won't) on both side of your circulator pump.


How can I attach a light fixture to plasterboard?

In the US, a ceiling lighting fixture generally is mounted to an electrical box. The box is usually firmly mounted to a joist or other structural support.

Most fixtures have screw holes that align with the standard spacing on the fixture box.

In some cases, where boxes need to be suported between strucutral members, they use metal braces that reach to structural members.  The box then attaches to the support bar.

A circular fixture is usually light enough to be supported by the screws into a well mounted ceiling fixture box. If you are replacing the box, a fan type box has extra strength and long screws to support the weight of a fan.
.

They are also available with extra strong braces that fit between framing members.

If the fixture is too large to be supported by the fixture box alone, you can use conventional attachment mechanisms to support the fixture in the ceiling. Screwing into framing members (e.g., joists) is preferred, but toggle bolts or other expanding drywall anchors can be used.

I would avoid plastic anchors because they are the weakest of the options, especially when the weight of the unit pulls perpendicular to the surface rather than parallel to it. See a discussion of anchors here.


How to replace my kitchen sink basket with no lock nut?

this looks like a chinese unit one of my granite suppliers used to use.  they are the biggest piece of junk on the planet.  if i remember correctly, the small screw in the middle acts as a retainer for the whole unit.  you have unscrew it from above, and it holds the whole thing together.  the problem we had was that the screw got locked into the metal insert thats in the lower plastic section and just seizes right up.  our solution was a heat gun.  just melt the lower bowl and keep pulling it out in chunks until you can get a grinder in and cut the bolt.  then throw everything away and start again, using a quality metal strainer assembly


Do I still need to fasten quarter inch drywall or can I just use adhesive?

Are modern construction adhesives sufficient to adhere 1/4" drywall over solid plaster walls?

No
It's really good to add some adhesive to your drywall-over-drywall, but (speaking from experience) you should identify the studs before-hand and then drive nails or screws in. The reason is that the adhesive is coming out in a 1/4" to 1/2" bead. So even if you spread the adhesive liberally, it's only going to adhere to a small portion of the surface. Worse, you're not guaranteed to get the new drywall to "suck up" to the old one, meaning you might be left with a gap here and there, where the adhesive cured in a bead instead of being pressed flat. Against a 1/4" board, that could leave a weak spot over a hole you can't see until something "bumps" it and breaks it.
I had to do this in my hall bath recently. I adhesived, mounted, and then nailed through the new and old into a stud. I didn't drive a lot of nails, but after doing so the first time, you could hear the adhesive being pressed between the boards (i.e. bubbles popping for a moment or two). The wall has not moved since I mounted it, and drove maybe half of what I would use on drywall straight over studs. Do it right, or do it a second time.


Sturd-I-Floor is the "Standard/Grade" in this case. It's a little murky for anyone old enough to expect the A-B-C grading. But it's designed for the job you want to do.

http://www.performancepanels.com/single.cfm?content=app_pp_group2


What amp breaker for 20 Amp electrical oven and 40 Amp electrical range on same circuit

Column C

First off you'll notice the text "Column C to be used in all cases except as otherwise permitted in Note 3.)", in the title of table 220.55. This makes it simple. You have 2 appliances, so follow that over in the table, and you'll see 11 in Column C.  So there you go, you can just use 11 kW. Done.

11,000 W / 240 V = 45.8333 A

So you'll need a 50 ampere breaker, and wire sized appropriately for the load.

Note 3

Note 3 says:

  Over 1 3⁄4 kW through 8 3⁄4 kW. In lieu of the method provided in Column C, it shall be permissible to add the nameplate ratings of all household
  cooking appliances rated more than 1 3⁄4 kW but not more than 8 3⁄4 kW and multiply the sum by the demand factors specified in Column A or
  Column B for the given number of appliances. Where the rating of cooking appliances falls under both Column A and Column B, the demand
  factors for each column shall be applied to the appliances for that column, and the results added together.

Perfect, so instead of just using the value from column C you can do math. Let's step through it.

  ...it shall be permissible to add the nameplate ratings of all household
  cooking appliances rated more than 1 3⁄4 kW but not more than 8 3⁄4 kW...

8.4 kW + 5.0 kW = 13.4 kW

  ...and multiply the sum by the demand factors specified in Column A or
  Column B for the given number of appliances...

Let's check the table again... You have 2 appliances, both between 3 1/2 and 8 3/4 kW. So You'll look at column B, and find 65%.

13.4 kW * 65% = 8.71 kW

8710 W / 240 V = 36.2916 A

So using this method you can use a 40 ampere breaker, and appropriately sized wire. However, keep in mind that if you change the equipment, you'll have to do the calculation again. So while you can use this value, you may have to upgrade the circuit later if you change equipment.

Note 4

I'm not exactly sure how note 4 comes into play, but I think it can be used if this is the only equipment on the branch circuit. Just for fun, let's run through that one too.

  Branch-Circuit Load. It shall be permissible to calculate the branch-circuit load for one range in accordance with Table 220.55. The branch-circuit
  load for one wall-mounted oven or one counter-mounted cooking unit shall be the nameplate rating of the appliance. The branch-circuit load
  for a counter-mounted cooking unit and not more than two wall-mounted ovens, all supplied from a single branch circuit and located in the same
  room, shall be calculated by adding the nameplate rating of the individual appliances and treating this total as equivalent to one range.

You're only concerned with the second half of this note, since you have one counter-mounted cooking unit, and one wall-mounted oven, all supplied by a single branch-circuit, and located in the same room. So you can add the nameplate values, and treat it as a single range.

8.4 kW + 5.0 kW = 13.4 kW

So you can treat the units as a single 13.4 kW range. Check the column C again, this time for a single range. You'll find a value of 8 kW. But wait... The column header says "(Not over 12 kW Rating)". Your range is 13.4 kW. That's bigger than 12 kW. Now you'll have to check note 1

  Over 12 kW through 27 kW ranges all of same rating. For ranges individually rated more than 12 kW but not more than 27 kW, the maximum
  demand in Column C shall be increased 5 percent for each additional kilowatt of rating or major fraction thereof by which the rating of individual
  ranges exceeds 12 kW.

That's easy enough.

13.4 kW - 8 kW = 5.4 kW

Since .4 is not a "major fraction", you can just use 5 kW. So you'll have to add 5% 5 times.

5% * 5 = 0.25
8000 W * 0.25 = 2000 W
8000 W + 2000 W = 10,000 W

That means you'll have to use 10 kW as your demand.

10,000 W / 240 V = 41.666 A

Which means you can use a 50 ampere breaker, and appropriately size wire.


Do I add calcite or magnesium first to my new acid neutralizer?

So I called them today and the order is:

gravel -> box of mag mix -> bags of calcite.


Installing new 2-wire (Single Pole) Thermostats - how to install when there are 3 wires in wall?

The thermostat is really just a switch that opens and closes (that is, turns power on and turns power off) when the temperature changes.  The wiring in your picture would likely indicate one supply switching what ever is downstream on two wires.  That's consistent with your setup, where it's set to switch the heater and the fan together.
It's important that the thermostat be rated for the current and power use of the loads that it switches.  You'd want to be very careful that your new thermostat can handle at least as much as the one you're replacing (assuming the original was sized correctly).
But if the switching the two devices was OK before, it should be OK with the new thermostat installed - it's a simple two wire device and although the logic controlling it may be more sophisticated it, ultimately it's function is exactly the same:  it's opening and closing a switch.
It doesn't matter which of the two black wires from the thermostat you connect to the single wire, and which to the other two.  The important thing is you keep the two that are under the tan wire nut with the red lead from the old thermostat together.


Is using a globe valve on a water supply line a bad idea?

A gate valve does not have a "washer set". The valve in the photo appears to be a globe valve.

I agree with your plumber that a globe valve is proper in that place. A gate valve or ball valve is intended to be seldom closed, usually to empty out pipes for winter exposure or to repair the plumbing. If you must operate a valve often, as part of your household routine, then a ball valve may not stand the wear.

Some differences among the most commonly used valve types:

A gate valve stops the flow by sliding a flat plate across the flow path. The advantage of a gate valve is that when fully opened it offers almost no restriction to the liquid flow. The main disadvantage of a gate valve is that the end of the gate must slide into a pocket to complete the seal, and this pocket is not flushed by the normal flow of liquid, so that scale and debris collects there and blocks the valve from fully closing.

A ball valve controls the flow by rotating a ball with a large hole in it. The advantage of a ball valve is that when fully opened it offers less restriction to the liquid flow than most other types (except perhaps a gate valve). The main disadvantage of a ball valve is that when the ball eventually wears down, there is no adjustment to tighten the mechanism and stop the leaking. The ball type should not be used where the valve must be operated frequently.

A globe valve operates by screwing a small disk, faced with a rubber washer, directly down onto an opening in a smooth plate, called the seat. The advantage of a globe valve is that it is simple to manufacture and maintain. As the washer and seat wear down, simply turning the handle little further completely stops the flow. Most users do not even notice this. When the washer becomes too worn to seal properly, it can easily (and almost intuitively) be replaced by an amateur. Even a damaged seat can be reground without special training -- just the proper tool. The disadvantage of the globe valve is that even when fully opened it still significantly restricts the liquid flow.

In your case the flow restriction will not be a problem because you are not using the flow directly in your shower etc. Even if you notice a difference, it will just take a bit longer to fill your tank.


Can I use a 240/120 transformer and adapter cable to connect a generator to my house?

It does seem like an extra useless step. The L14-30R on the generator has two 120 V slots, a neutral slot and a ground slot. The voltage between the two 120 V slots is 240 volts. If the L14-30P on the house is wired correctly, it is connected to both 120 and 240 V circuits in the house. However the generator is not big enough to power the 240 V appliances in the house. It is not even big enough to power very many 120 V appliances. It could be that the cord that you have does not have 4 wires. It may be wired to supply only the 120 V circuits in the house that are connected to one of the two L14-30P 120V prongs. If your dad has told you to use that arrangement and you have reason to believe he has used it in the past, I would say go ahead and use it. You may find that some things in the house will not turn on. If that is the case, determine if they are things that you can live without. If they are, that is your answer.


Grounded outlet has ground wire attached to neutral post, neutral wire isolated and not connected

This is NOT okay.

Use a multimeter (or voltmeter) to test the grounded (neutral) conductor, to see if you're getting the proper voltage between it and the ungrounded (hot) conductor.

If it tests okay, wire the receptacle up the way it's supposed to.

If not, you'll have to trace back through the circuit, and try to figure out what's wrong.


How to deal with water damage from backed up AC drain

The drain pan should have a limit switch/sensor which prevents operation of the unit if the sensor detects the pan is full. Either this switch/sensor has gone bad or was never installed to begin with. I've never installed/replaced such a sensor so I cannot state how hard it would be to do so, but my guess is it should be fairly simple.

The condensate is not pure water. Sometimes it can seem more like syrup--at least that is what I have observed. There are various options. Periodically adding vinegar is one option. Bleach is not recommended. Note, you can also have this issue in winter if you have a high-efficiency condensing furnace. You definitely should clean the drain out bi-annually. Quarterly would be better....

If it were mine, I would probably rip out the flooring and replace with tile or vinyl depending on how visible the area is and how often it is accessed. This flooring appears to be some type of cheap laminate (read that: not worth trying to fix) in my humble opinion.

Read more here: https://www.artplumbingandac.com/air-conditioning/how-to-unclog-an-ac-drain-pipe/


Why when I turn the one knob kitchen Facet from running cold water to hot water does the water stop?

Sounds like a frozen pipe to me. If you can, you should turn the water off to that section of plumbing. At least until you can verify the plumbing has not been damaged.


How do I fix a leaky spigot on a rain barrel?

I don't think the threads have enough to make a water tight seal against the rain barrel. Teflon tape is good when you have many threads making a connection between two joints. Instead, I'd make the hole larger, put a nut, washer, and rubber gasket on each side with the rain barrel in the middle so you can compress the rubber washer against the rain barrel for a water tight seal. Here is it in the ever so descriptive ascii art:

            *
        ||| * |||
| +-----+++---+++--
+-+     |||   |||
| | +---+++---+++--
  | |   ||| * |||
  ^^^       *  ^
faucet   ^  ^  +--- gasket, washer, nut
         |  +-- rain barrel
         +-- nut, washer, gasket


Should I remove moulding before adding a plaster ceiling?

Yes, you should remove the trim before the ceiling is done.

Yes, some and possibly a lot of the material will get damaged if you have not done it before. Even a pro will crack some, but a pro will know how to repair it too. Sometimes it is better to get a new molding that closely matches the original.

Yes, the wall will get damaged too here and there but the same crew doing the plaster can mud in the damaged spots too.


Adapter to interface camping propane tank like big grilling one

Shopping questions are off-topic here.
However, I was able to find what you're looking for by searching for "coleman" (since they're one of the most popular makers of 1lb propane tanks and the camping grills that use them) and "1lb propane grill adapter".
I was able to find this at Amazon in pretty short order.

Various other adapters likely exist, but I would caution you against trying to make your own with two ends and some tubing. Liquid propane can be 100-200 psi and it's difficult to handle that with DIY tubing.


As I discuss in the answer you linked, that is fine.  There are some minor glitches in your drawing, but nothing worrisome.   Try

                / Wall switch
        +------0   0-----+
        |                |
--Phase-+-----Sensor-----+-------+
                 |              Lights
--Neutral--------+---------------+

(ground removed for clarity, actually it's needed at all devices assuming NZ code does not delete this popular requirement). And this is strictly a schematic, the wiring method must be such that currents balance in each cable or conduit.

A quality, modern motion sensor with its own neutral isn't going to have a problem with its LOAD hot being externally hottified by a switch or other motion sensor.

A maintainer, especially one who has looked around the room and observed motion sensors, should be shutting off power at the circuit breaker.  I have no sympathy for someone who wants to work the circuit "hot", unless NZ Code has a variation that says I should.  For all the servicer knows, it's wired with a switched neutral.


Recessed beam where joists meet in center of room

Short answer:

Get an engineer to size the beam and end supports and footings.
Lay the beam on top, attach it to the vertical support.
Use long U-shaped joist hangers to hang the joists off the beam.
Demolish the existing wall.
Spend the rest of your life cleaning up.

Long Answer -  2 part Blog post that I wrote after I did a similar reno in my house.


How do electricians quickly choose electrical box sizes?

The tip I got from an electrician was to just buy the big boxes; the cost difference is minor, it's easier to work in bigger boxes, and then you don't have to work about it.


Wires from meter to disconnect to junction to home

It sounds like your service starts at 100A at the meter, then runs to a 50A box, then into your 100A panel (possibly since this is a park, the 100A meter runs 2x 50A boxes - yours and your neighbors?). It also sounds like there are some concerns about how the 50A box is (not) grounded. If I understand correctly, the park owner is promising to make repairs and you are concerned about making sure that the correct work is done properly.
As long as the 50A box is just tied in to the circuit (not protecting your home), your main concern would be making sure that if and when there is a device plugged into the 50A receptacle box, your home + that device is not drawing more than 100A
I'm not an electrician, but it sounds to me that if you make sure that you have a proper ground you will be fine.


How do i get a wet bicarbonate of soda stain out of my carpet?

You don't.

Maybe.

You might get lucky but sometimes a series of chemical processes ends up fixing the stain permanently. A research chemist and a lot of time and money might fix it but sometimes you have to consider alternatives.

Not too long ago, a plumber left a stain on a carpet. I went through a variety of products and services to try an remove it. In the end it was worse than it was before I started.

I paid a carpet fitter to replace the carpet.


Metric multi-size bolt head rounder-offer