How to mount hooks into concrete ceiling that must be able to support several times bodyweight?

Checking with my engineer-minded girlfriend, we've got too many questions to be able to answer this. The concrete, which is intended to support a dead load, may not be able to support the moment loads that you're planning to put on it. Without having a structural diagram for the entire building and detail on what the beams are intended to do (such as -- are they of a type that is webbing to support a lateral dead load only to hold the walls together? how much load is already on the beam and where? What kind of shape is the concrete in, and how well reinforced is it -- remember it's almost 100 years old!), no one but an engineer could really tell you. Concrete, even reinforced, is a very brittle substance.

You will need to be attached to a structural portion of the structure. In the following picture of an all-concrete warehouse type structure, note that the structure is the columns or piers (vertical elements) and beams (what rides on top of the columns and ties the columns to the walls). Note that in the picture's case, nothing is attached to the beams. That's probably because the beams are there solely to provide a framework for the roof. The things that are attached to the ceiling do not move and therefore are "dead" loads.

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If you do not have access to one of the beams, you do not want to attempt this task... the concrete you will try to attach to will crack inwards when the moment load is applied to the points. If you have side access to one of the beams or columns, you can probably fasten a plate to side of the beam or column and use several bolts to attach the plate, and then use a metal pole to span between the plates. A metal bar or pipe of sufficient thickness will be elastic enough to absorb and flex with point moment-loads where a single or pair of anchors in concrete will crack.

Since it's an apartment and is not solely your structure, most of the solutions we could devise if the beam is sufficient to support the various types of loads would include drilling a permanent hole four inches into the beam and then affixing an expanding sleeve bolt with a backup of permanent masonry epoxy. Drilling with a hammer drill and then installing an expanding sleeve bolt carries a large risk of cracking the beam. Since you are living in a shared structure, this is probably not advisable. You will need to check with any homeowners association or deed covenants, which may restrict you legally from performing modifications to the building's structure in such a way that could be detrimental to your neighbors and cohabitants.

Here's an example of the anchor type I'd use to anchor into concrete:

They are made by ITW RedHead and are available at most home improvement stores.

Talking over possible solutions with my girlfriend, who is not a structural engineer and knows nothing of your structure, she suggested using a floor-mounted framework. Her crossfit gym has a gymnastics framework that bolted together into a secure structure that would be sound against several kN of force and would spread the load on the floor instead of trusting the overhead structure. They also would not involve a permanent modification to the structure. I'm not sure where you'd find something like that; I've seen the one at her gym and it looked custom made to me.


How do I make seams in vinyl flooring look good?

OK, first obvious question:  Where did all the corners go?  Did they get cut off?  Is this sheet goods or adhesive tiles of some type? I think it is sheet goods from the pics.

Until I get a bit more info, here are a couple of ideas for ya. Short of starting from scratch, go ahead and glue down the flooring as you have it in the pics. If you have any extra scraps, cut some small triangles and glue them in with an over-cut procedure to assure no gaps in the solid color joint.   Cut away some of the "grout" in the offending joint so you have at least an 1/8th inch gap, 1/4 inch would be better. After gluing and rolling the vinyl , let it cure a few hours, maybe a day.

Next: Get a quart of premixed synthetic grout in a matching color to the grout lines in the flooring. Apply the grout to the gaps with a plastic putty knife, wiping away excess from vinyl with a damp sponge. Try to get a nice even layer of grout into the gaps. It is important to get the synthetic adhesive style grout designed to be used with vinyl tile or CVT. This type of grout will stick better in a thin coat and does not need sealing later.  After about 20 minutes clean all excess grout and haze from the vinyl. Be careful not to disturb the grout lines. After the grout has dried, finish cleaning any haze from the area with a damp sponge.  Good Luck


Was it allowed to not ground light switches?

Proper practice is and was to add a ground pigtail to the fixture (the light switch).  On the last outlet in a chain, it's OK to connect ground directly to the light switch.


How do I remove dried latex paint from carpet?

Depending on when this happened you might be able to just use water, or soap and water. Before it cures, latex paint is water soluble (so the absolute best time to clean it up is before it dries at all). I've had good luck using a couple of sponges and warm water - one to apply fresh clean water to the paint, and the other to blot up dissolved paint/water. You can continue this until the spot is gone.

If the paint is cured (i.e. the water isn't breaking it down) then there is a cleaner called "Oops!" that works well on paint, ink, tar etc on carpets. I would try some of that as I've heard it works wonders. It should be available at your local hardware store.


GE Water Softener: Can it function without the outflow turbine that monitors water flow going out?

Your softener should be set on gallons.
it is a real waste of water and salt to automatically regenerate every night.
If you don’t care it probably will be fine but when properly set up it may not need to regenerate even 1/2 as often as you are.
But if you are happy with a 24 hour regenerate it should work fine.


How can I run cables along a concrete wall?

There are various types of cable clips that use adhesive to hold them in place, such as these

If you are concerned about damaging the finish when they are taken off, some brands have pull strips that claim to avoid paint damage.

Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Exhaust Fan Code Requirements for Bathroom

After talking to Manufacture company , Answering to my own questions
Question : Does a 50 CFM of Exhaust fan enough or does it has to be higher because I have full bathroom ?
Answer : No. its based on just size of a bathroom.
Question : Does this fan has to be GFCI protected even if it is not directly above tub, although its 1 feet away from edge ( not wall side) of tub ?
Answer : If a fan is inside area of Shower/Bathtub. then GFCI protected needed. Let say if its just 6 inch outside of curtain road or Shower glass, the manufacture company doesn't require it as GFCI protected.
So it depends upon what type of fan do you have in your bathroom. you want to first check with manufacture company if you have the similar case.


Question on installing ski rack on on 36" wall space

Assuming not much is as stake, the idea is reasonable if the rack will still 'work' when it is 1.5" from the wall.  I suggest screws or lags of whatever type you have on hand, long enough to drive 1.5" into the stud, placed 3/4" from the top of the 2x4 cleat, one per stud, assuming you can tighten the screws enough to fasten the cleat tightly to the wall. Then mount the ski rack to the middle or lower half of the cleat.  Be careful of electrical and plumbing in the wall. However, all that's a lot of extra work that will end up looking cludgy.  I'd be more inclined to drill new holes in the rack that align with the studs.


Is the following image the section of a Resilient channel?

Yes it is resilient channel, called RC1. The website you linked to has all that information.


How do I install a fire extinguisher on the side of a cabinet?

Probably too heavy for wood screws into chipboard cabinets.
If the screws don't work then a couple of bolts with penny washers.

The extinguisher looks a bit battered, you should check the trigger mechanism looks ok. BUT don't try and squirt it a little bit - the cooling gas can make ice form in the valve and stop it turning off


How can I eliminate the smell of gas and smoke when burning my new gas fireplace?

This does NOT sound at all like a normal situation. Either your gas fireplace has a serious flaw or the unit is vented incorrectly. I would stop lighting it and immediately get a professional in to look at it. At the same time you should use every avenue at your disposal to get the builder, contractor, and gas fireplace installer on the hook to look at this unit and replace it if necessary with a properly functioning and correctly installed unit.


When re-screening window solar screens, how do I avoid warping the frame?

I clamped two of four sides (left side and bottom, for example) to a workbench while I was doing them. Then I worked on the side that was away from the two clamped down sides.

It's not so much about getting it taut as it is about getting it even...


Replacing cast iron pipe and adding new toilet

The first option is if you have absolutely no choice.  It could possibly have continuous issues, and you might eventually have to do choice #2.

You need at least a 1/4" decline per linear foot.  For long runs I like to add an inch if I can.  So for a 20 foot run I would put it 6 inches under from shower trap.  Note that you probably need to do no digging for your sink.  Pipes can probably line in the walls fine.

For the shower you need to break up concrete - about 1-1.5' wide and dig down to lay pipe.  Fill area with gravel and concrete over it again.  This is not a seriously hard job.  A jackhammer makes it maybe a couple hours and can be done with a sledge hammer.  Probably the hardest part is throwing away the concrete.  With the slope for your shower your toilet should be fine joining the main stack probably right above the shower.

Also note that I don't see any venting in your picture.

Note:  I am not anti-saniflo pump.  I have had to use them 2-3 times over the past 20 years.  I didn't feel good either time and I seriously doubt the original pump is working in those locations.  For this instance it would take more time to hook up the pumps to both the shower and the toilet, cost a lot of money, and have serious long-term money/time spent in making sure these systems were working.  I would be done breaking up the concrete and laying line (and maybe concreting over) before you got done reading the saniflo manual.  It is just the "easy" way out of your situation and is actually MUCH harder.  If it were just a toilet I would still say no way but I might be more on the fence, the shower makes breaking up concrete a no brainer.  I am just offering the best way to do this at the lowest cost and work.  If saniflo is preferred please note that it isn't the easiest way and will cost more money and time.  (please read customer reviews - they are all over the place)


How to cut off and insulate live 3-phase power?

Call the utility, ask for a disconnect.

Or call the mortuary and pick out a casket.

This is not a job for amateurs. Nor for gloves not rated and tested for the voltage. But that's just one tiny piece, so don't think solving the gloves is making you qualified to do the work.


How can I remove a cordless drill chuck?

Prop the drill upside down in a glass filled with warm muriatic acid for a few hours to dissolve the packed calcium sulfate, followed by a couple of whacks on the chuck with a hammer; repeat as necessary. Rinse and dry thoroughly afterwards as muriatic acid is a strong oxidizer that will quickly rust high-carbon steels if left metal surfaces exposed in air.

USE CAUTION as muriatic acid is actually hydrochloric acid and can burn you and your clothes; wear gloves and eye protection. You can find muriatic acid in the pool cleaning section of the big-box hardware stores.

I use this technique to dissolve impacted gypsum dust from my Dremel chucks.


selecting correct stain and varnish/poly/something else for oak hardwood floor

Your floors are prefinished and likely have an aluminum oxide finish on them which will be tough to sand off and require more time and sandpaper than normal. It also appears to have microbevels as mentioned by previous posts. You will need to either sand to a consistent depth or completely sand these microbevels off. If you do not sand them off completely there will be residual finish in them which will make applying finish to the floor via T-bar or paint pad difficult.

Environmental regulations have made polyurethane less desirable and it levels more poorly than it did previously.

Some of the most durable finishes available for site applied applications include Bona Traffic, Vermont Natural Coatings Polywhey and Basic coatings "Streetshoe". You should choose a finish and then select a stain as recommended by the finish manufacturer. Bona sets up in a few hours and therefore you can seal and do two coats in a day.


Clicking noise from fridge, and won't hold temp anymore

Our refrigerator suffered a similar problem a few months ago. The tech arrived and replaced what he called a starting relay. I had also suspected a capacitor problem, but the relay apparently precedes the circuit with the capacitor. Your description of clicking is consistent with a relay problem.


How to replace refrigerator paneling with stainless?

Typically wood panels are installed as part of the cabinetry, the fridge panel is installed at the same time as the kitchen cabinets.

There is a removable edge at the door that is used to install and remove the panel. Once that is removed the panel slides out from one side. The replacement SS panel will go in the same groove that held the wood panel. The edge of the wood panel that went into the groove is usually 1/4" thick, so to add a metal panel in its place a backer of corrugated cardboard needs to be added in the back of the SS panel to keep it from moving excessively.


What type of bulb fits in this slot type?

That's called a Bayonet Mount (in your case, single contact, as there's a double contact as well)

A bayonet mount (mainly as a method of mechanical attachment, as for fitting a lens to a camera) or bayonet connector (for electrical use) is a fastening mechanism consisting of a cylindrical male side with one or more radial pins, and a female receptor with matching L-shaped slot(s) and with spring(s) to keep the two parts locked together. The slots are shaped like a capital letter L with serif (a short upward segment at the end of the horizontal arm); the pin slides into the vertical arm of the L, rotates across the horizontal arm, then is pushed slightly upwards into the short vertical "serif" by the spring; the connector is no longer free to rotate unless pushed down against the spring until the pin is out of the "serif".
The bayonet mount is the standard light bulb fitting in the United Kingdom and in many countries that were members of the British Empire including Pakistan, Australia, India, Sri Lanka, Ireland, and New Zealand, parts of the Middle East and Africa and, historically, France and Greece.

You can see the knobs on the bulb base in this product page


How do I widen a hole in my porcelain kitchen sink?

I would recommend installing a faucet with an integral sprayer as a less complex alternative to modifying a porcelain fixture.


Are my intermittently-working holiday lights a fire hazard?

Fault-tolerant Christmas lights fail open first and then fail shorted. Replace any dark lamps, if a fuse lamp has failes the string will stay dark unti it is replaced. replace any bad fuse lamps with fuse lamps.

So long as there's a fuse lamp in each string you're protected against short circuits causing fire.


What type of header is needed for a door opening in load bearing concrete wall?

Don't head off half cocked with internet advice and a 10" brick wall above. Hire a structural/civil engineer, and get an answer you can bet your house and/or life on - because you will be doing exactly that. Having got the advice, follow it carefully.

Given that you say "small door" your engineer might be able to give you a less painful solution by using a round-topped door that will act somewhat like an arch, for instance.


Shower head pipe recessed: what do I need?

You need to install a shower arm.

One end will (should) thread into the pipe in the wall, and the shower head will thread on to the other end.

Don't forget to use pipe dope/tape on the threads.

Apply tape/dope to the threads of the shower arm.
Thread the shower arm into the pipe in the wall (Do not over tighten).

If you have to use a wrench to tighten the arm. Wrap the arm with a towel/cloth, so the wrench does not mar the surface of the arm.

Slide the flange over the shower arm, so it covers the hole in the wall.
Apply tape/dope to the threads on the other end of the shower arm.
Thread the shower head on to the shower arm.


Air deflectors on floor registers and cooling efficiency

The past home owner left these in my place.  Where the blowing air just gets caught behind the curtains, is under furniture or tropical plants, I divert it, and this just happens to be towards places where people sit.

Keep in mind in the winter, having the warm air low helps mix it.  But in all seasons, the vents are near windows and doors to counteract the cold/hot spots these create to give you a more even temperature in the home.

Also, if you have moisture problems in your windows, it's not because of these deflectors.  Well insulated windows (multiple panes and weather stripping) are the solution to that problem.


How much concrete is required to anchor down a gazebo?

First, I should disclose that I voted to close as opinion-based. The answer depends almost entirely on your tolerance for risk and your effort/cost budget. Anyway, here are my thoughts.

A structure of that lightweight design doesn't call for concrete. It'll be torn apart by high wind before it'll pull out good soil anchors.
The anchors that came with the kit don't sound adequate. I'd purchase some larger screw-type soil anchors that penetrate at least 10 inches and have good bite.
If your organic soil is very deep, consider digging through it and installing the anchors into the subsoil. Use chain or wire rope to extend the loops and connect the gazebo to that.


How to insulate a concrete block shed - material / method

The most efficient (highest R-value for the least cost) is batt insulation.

For the walls, You say, "solid block wall", so I presume it's not hollow blocks. So, installing rigid insulation boards on the exterior and then covering it with a moisture barrier (building paper, peel-and-stick membrane, etc.) and then covering it with, as you say, "timber tongue n groove" will give you both the insulation you need and the waterproofing you need. This can be done using wood stripping installed the opposite direction you're going to install the "timber tongue n groove". (Placing the insulation on the exterior will help with the size of the spaces too.) The thickness of the rigid insulation depends on the thickness of the stripping and how much you can afford...generally R-21 is recommended. The stripping should be easy to install if the blocks are solid and not hollow.

For the ceiling, providing a pitched roof with R-38 batt insulation is recommended for your location. Be sure to vent the attic to prevent condensation and ruining the insulation.

For the floor, we don't worry so much about concrete slabs on grade. The cost is too great compared to the benefit of adding perimeter insulation.


How soon after sealing grout can you use a shower?

Manufacturer directions should state minimum time after sealing for use.  It is important to “test” sealer by sprinkling a few drops of water on the sealed grout to make sure it is repelling water. If the water is spreading out and being absorbed, you need to apply another coat of sealer and allow to dry at least two hours.

Here are the instructions on the Mapei container:


Is my fridge not cooling because of this fan?

In short, yes. The fridge is cooled by running refrigerator air through the freezer compartment; that fan is responsible for making the air exchange happen. If the freezer still cools fine while the fridge doesn't then the fan is a likely culprit. There could also be a problem in whatever electronics control the fan, but start with replacing the fan only.


Tightening wood posts in simpson ez bases?

When in Doubt, Consult the Manufacturer

Simpson Strongtie makes it simple, the only fasteners officially approved for use with the product happen to be the ones they make and sell.

From the Strongtie Site:

  Attach post to E-Z Spike or E-Z Base with (8) 1/4" Strong-Drive SDS Heavy-Duty Connector screws or 1/4" HDG lag screws and attach post to E-Z Mender using (6) HDG nails or screws per part

Could you use a generic equivalent fastener?

It's pointed out in the comments that Simpson only specifies THEIR screws, but a generic galvanized lag screw ought to work fine.  I wouldn't lose a minute's sleep over it.  I'd bet there's really nothing unusual about Simpson's screws shaft diameter, material, thread depth, corrosion resistance, etc.

(Goes without saying you have to know what you're doing to substitute;  lots of people had decks fall down, sometimes with catastrophic results, because they thought roofing nails were close enough to joist hanger nails.  They are not!)

Depending on the locale, code may require that specialty hardware like this be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Some products, like joist hanger nails, Simpson's literature specifies generic equivalents;  but I didn't see any for these screws.  Another hardware manufacturer, they might not make fasteners and might only specify generic hardware for a similar product.

So if you really want to go by the letter of the code, you have to use Simpson's screws.  It's not a lot of money and it keeps things simple.  I just consider the specialty fasteners part of the cost of the specialty hardware.


Can I use sheathed cable in a surface raceway, and do I need to derate?

Yes, but the derate won't actually hurt.  What applies is the lowest of all the derates, and they are several.  This one is that with 4-6 wires, you derate to 80% of the 90 degree C column of Table 310.15(B)(16).  So your 14 AWG wire must be derated to 20A, and 12 AWG wire must be derated to 24A.

I'm guessing that won't ruin your plans.

As far as NM vs THHN, NM takes a lot more space, you run into conduit fill issues sooner.  It's also a great deal stiffer than individual THHN wires. You may think THHN is just as stiff as individual wires of Romex, however they also make stranded THHN, which is much more flexible and easier to work with.


How do I stop the rubber sweep on my front door from squeaking as it moves against the floor?

It's the same concept are wiper blades on a car. The rubber is either too far gone and need to be replaced or you can rejuvenate it by wetting it. Rubber, when exposed to the elements, will slowly dry out and lose its oils and become, well, dry. It can become brittle, squeak, and streak. If you can save it, then all you have to do it wet it and let it soak up some liquid just like your wipers working better after a few passes in the rains. You could use water, but it won't work well or for as long. Something like gun oil or any petroleum based oil would work well; however, it's also the first to seep out and cause oil streaks on your floor.

So how do you get a result you're happy with.
If you can rub it while dry and it makes your hand dirty or crumbles, it's probably a goner. Otherwise, if you can find an oil you can stand the smell of (because you'll smell it for a while), soak the rubber in it for a few hours then let dry for another few hours. After that, rinse it thoroughly with hot water to get the extra oil sitting near the surface out.


The pipe with the corrosion is a SUPPLY pipe, not a drain pipe, so anything having to do with pouring vinegar down a drain would be irrelevant.
That coupling looks bad, as in someone did a poor job of soldering it, maybe used the wrong flux and there is a pinhole leak. The white material looks like a calcium deposit, likely from that pinhole leak and the water evaporating, leaving behind that calcium deposit (think stalactite in a cave). The blue material is copper oxide, a residue from corroding copper.
My guess given that evidence: the previous homeowner did his own copper plumbing (or hired a cheap handyman to do it) and made a mistake on that fitting (which would make me worry about others) right before putting the house on the market. Rather than re-do it, he may have just tried to clean off the calcium deposit. One way to do that is to use vinegar! But then the vinegar also reacted with some of the exposed copper and formed the copper oxide too.
Bottom line, I would not get too into the vinegar smell issue, you have a bad coupling that needs to be removed, the pipes cleaned thoroughly and a new one soldered in properly. If you don't have the skill set for this yourself, hire a plumber.


How do I install roofing material on a roof with a ridge vent?

You will need to remove the ridge vent so you can shingle up to the cut opening, and under where the ridge vent attaches.  If you can salvage it great, but otherwise, install a new ridge vent. Do not try to mickey mouse your last row of shingles under it to avoid taking it off. You WILL be sorry the first time it rains.


You want a PVC-to-threads adapter as depicted below (presumably 3/4" to match the size of the knockouts on your box, with a 1" to 3/4" PVC reducer used to adapt the LB's 1" to the adapter's 3/4").

You then use PVC from the LB to the adapter/reducer pair, and a locknut to hold the adapter to the box.


Best and easiest way to seal insulation above concrete pour in unfinished areas of basements?

For a quick cover to make it look better, how about drywall screwed to the studs?  Keep insulation & drywall at least 1" off the floor to keep moisture from wicking into it and add a wide vinyl trim ţo cover the gap.


How should I repair a pvc flange set into concrete slab?

I would install a toilet Flange repair ring. This is a metal ring you mount on top this method cost about 10$. The other route is to cut the old flange out and install a new compression flange. This method cost about 35-40$ and is more work but the advantage is it works well with the new height of the flooring. Both methods work but I prefer the compression flange when changing flooring height.


Why would my boiler expel steam when it's set at 180F

I will give this a try.

Physics says that water can not make steam, at sea level pressure under 212 degrees F.

It is also why steam pipes and automobile systems are under pressure, you can hold more heat, when water is under pressure and not have it boil. Pressure cookers cook food faster for the same reason.

The only way to make steam, from water, at 180 F, is to do it under partial vacuum.

To get water to boil at 180 F, you need to reduce the air pressure to about 7.5 psi.

7.5 psi is a column of water about 15' tall.

If a boiler tank, had a 15' tall pipe, filled with water, and caught between a drain trap and the return to the boiler, it would make steam at 180 F.

I have a physics background, and I am not a stationary engineer, well not a train engineer either, to be honest.

Hopefully someone who has actually worked on a boiler system can take this and run with it.

Note, never pay someone to work on a boiler that thinks the temperature of the water should be below the boiling point of water.

You are better off hiring a competent plumber to work on a storage water heater. You get the same result with fewer parts, faster, and for less money.


URD 1/0 wire for 100amp subpanel 60' away from main box

Here is the UL standard summary for that type of cable:

https://standardscatalog.ul.com/standards/en/standard_854_12

It says:

  1.2 These cables have insulation of solid, extruded dielectric material(s) that are for use in wet locations at 75°C (167°F) and
  lower temperatures. Cables that are marked with a conductor type that
  includes the letters "HH" have insulation that is for use in dry
  locations at temperatures as high as 90°C (194°F) as well as in wet
  locations at 75°C (167°F) and lower temperatures. Cables that are
  marked with a conductor type that includes "-2" have insulation that
  is for use in wet or dry locations at temperatures as high as 90°C
  (194°F).

So unless you attic is getting above 90C (which is REALLY hot!) you should be good.

Are you sure you need 1/0 here?  That's a huge gauge for 100A.  But yes, that will work.


Should I replace the neutral wire that I accidentally cut in a Romex cable when installing a new outlet?

Is it easier to replace the cable now than later?
Do you wish you were able to make that wirenut connection better?
Did you install the receptacle to use for a heavy electrical load,
dedicated or not?

If you answered yes to one or more of the questions, replace the cable.


How do I use DAP plastic wood filler safely?

The flash point of a material is the temperature above which it will give off vapors that can ignite.  It's NOT the temperature at which the fumes or the material will self-ignite. As a point of reference, you likely handle gasoline regularly and its flash point is -45F!
Just ensure that there are no ignition sources while you are using the product and have plenty of ventilation (should not be an issue at an outside door) while using it to prevent fumes from building up.
Answers to your questions:

The can should have storage information but I suspect it says "cool dry place".

Again the container should have disposal information but you may want to handle it as you would paint or a similar substance and dispose of it at a hazardous household waste disposal site in your community.

It's NEVER a good idea to wash solvents into your sink.  Capture solvents you wash things with and dispose of at a suitable waste disposal site.

Yes, that would be reasonable.


Why does my mobile home's panel read 240 volts between hot and neutral?

You do have an open main neutral.

Turn off the main power now and call the utility. They will check to see if the problem is on their side of things or yours. I suspect yours though.


Are these walls near a skylight, load bearing?

OK, I've had remodelers tell my wife that those walls are not load bearing (they didn't go into the attic).

Meanwhile, I've had a friend from church with framing experience look closely in the attic and say I definitely need to transfer the load being carried by these boards and walls and have at least one board to keep the roof from racking away from the rest of the house.

While drawing the diagram in my heavily edited question, I came to see how there must be some load on these few vertical boards, so I'm going that route recommended by my friend.

I'll cut a few boards to go from the ridge-line beam to the nearby load bearing hallway wall and closet walls, toenail them in, then begin removing the existing partitioning walls below.


How does framing a very tall non-structural wall differ from framing a standard height non-structural wall?

Structurally I think you have a bigger problem with the two story space than with the taller one story space.

If you put a lot of weight up in the air 10’ or so without anchoring it to something or providing some shear bracing, it could tip over by lateral loads or racking. If you put gypsum board on the walls that will help, but may not be sufficient depending on the upstairs load (weight).

I’d plan on about 20 psf to 30 psf horizontal force on the walls, depending on where you live, because if you open an exterior door during a wind storm that force will transfer to your new walls. The same force will be applied to the 20’ high walls, but it won’t have the weight of the second floor furnishings, people, etc. acting as a high center of gravity.

Even without the wind, you’ll have a tendency for the second floor to rack.

Gypsum board has some horizontal resistance when nailed properly. However, even when it’s nailed properly, it’s horizontal resistance is not close to plywood. If you use the plywood shear approach rather than the 2x4 wall brace approach, be sure to use adequate anchor bolts into the concrete slab floor.

I know you don’t want to install 2x4 braces over to the exterior structural walls because of possible heat transfer, but that is a minor issue compared to the horizontal structural issues.


Will spilling a little liquid (beer, say) on untreated plywood for very little time damage or warp it?

Yes it can warp from liquid.  Will it in the case you mentioned - probably not.  Plywood will warp if you just let the board sit with moisture/humidity/gravity.  Until it is attached to something to give it shape (keep it straight) and it is coated, it will warp.  Get some bracing under your beer pong top to the plywood so it can't buckle, twist, or warp.


How often should I clean the drains in my house?

Normal modern drain installations do not require any regular cleaning. If you notice a clog/slowdown or gurgling, a targeted cleaning may help. But if your concern is buildup of material inside of drain/waste/vent pipes, this is rarely a concern. Sometimes after 50-100 years there can be enough buildup to cause a problem. But preemptive cleaning of drains is not typically worth it.


The floor joists are secured to the sill joists by installing wall sheathing (plywood or OSB board) that laps from the sill plate up the wall to the double top plate. When the sheathing is nailed to the sill plates, rim joists, studs and double top plate, then all the components are secured in place.
The thickness and size and spacing of the nails in each component are determined by the load (we call this load: “shear”) they need to resist. If the walls are extra tall, or have many windows, then extra thick and special increased nailing may be required.
Likewise, if the building is located in a seismic zone or high wind area, then additional nailing AND special steel holddowns may be required at certain locations to resist the shear loads and keep the floor joists aligned with the sill, studs, and double top plate.
The sill transfers the shear loads to the concrete foundation. The size and spacing of the anchor bolts is determined by the shear load that is transferred through the walls to the foundation.


Why can't I drill deep enough into my wall for wall anchors?

You may be trying to drill into a concrete or brick wall. you can remove some outlet covers (e.g., electric, cable) on that same wall to be able to get a peek inside and confirm.  It's also possible that you are drilling into a stud or even a fire break. Both of the above situations are a good thing if you are trying to hang/mount heavy items.

If it is a concrete wall, look into the correct concrete wall anchor for the weight or bolt size you need. You may also need to get a drill bit for concrete if you don't have one.

If it is a wood stud, you may not need to use a drywall anchor.


This happens a lot with GFCIs

A person tries to replace a plain receptacle with a GFCI, but they have a problem.  The GFCI only has 2 screws, but they have 3 or more wires.

Then, they see 2 more screws (under the warning tape) marked LOAD.  They think "LOAD must surely relate to my problem*" (no).   And then they kind of invent a theory (no) and roll with it.  Sometimes they get lucky and it works anyway.  That won't happen with 3 wires.

LOAD isn't for splicing in additional wires.  It means something else, and it can't be used here, so I'd say don't try to untangle its mysteries today.

Also, your use of "LEAD" and "LOAD" (as a matched pair of wires) is something I've never heard of.  We use "hot and neutral" as pairs of wires.   You connect a matched hot and neutral to "LINE", or (not today) to "LOAD".

Backstabs and cutting wires

I see on the old receptacle, you cut the wires rather than release them (either by stubbornly twisting out or by releasing per instructions).  Only cut wires if you have ample extra length to waste.  Your wire must be 6" from the back of the box and 3" beyond the surface of the wall, or you must fish new cable.  Don't squander needed length.

That connection type was called a "backstab".  In our experience, backstabs are unreliable, and often cause difficult-to-find connection problems later or after being placed under high load.

Your GFCI probably comes with "screw-to-clamp" type connections, which have 2 "back" holes directly under the screw, and you must tighten the screw to clamp them.  Note this arrangement accepts 2 wires on 1 screw!

The mystery of the 240V "miscolored white"

It's definitely a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC), which is a googler for you. Mildly complex, and dangerous if there's a wiring error.  A MWBC is two hots sharing a neutral.  There must be 240V across them or it overloads the neutral, so we know that part  is correct.

By the way, that also means you must shut off 2 breakers to de-energize what's in this box.  MWBC rules require the breakers to be "handle-tied" so they shutoff together... But they often aren't.

One common MWBC configuration is a split outlet, with a common neutral and two separate hots each feed one socket on the receptacle. But your "hot" tab would've been broken off, and it isn't. More importantly, that wouldn't explain the knocked out bathroom.  No, I think something different is going on.

On a normal circuit, if you disconnect the neutral, the neutral on the panel's side will read 0 volts.  But the neutral on the equipment side will read 120V.  That's because power is coming through the equipment and trying to loop back to the panel, and it can't because you've disconnected it, so it's floating it up to 120V.  This sort of "hot voltage on neutral" is why we insulate neutral as if it was a hot.

Anyway, I think the "miscolored white" is actually a neutral.  It's the neutral from the other half of a multi-wire branch circuit.

You severed it, which is why it's reading hot, and it's the other half of a MWBC, which is why it's reading 240V.

Now, we can test that easily enough.  Connect this "mystery neutral" to the HOT side of a plain receptacle, and the known neutral to the neutral side.  Plug in an incandescent bulb and turn on the bathroom breaker.  Switch on some of the (now dead) bathroom devices.  Does the bulb light up and change brightness depending what's on, and do the bathroom loads run badly/dimly? If so, my theory is correct.

Presuming that, from here on forward...

Further, the installer broke another rule of MWBCs -- Neutrals must be pigtailed, so a device can be removed without severing the neutral for the other half of the circuit.

So the two white wires should be pigtailed together with a third short wire (the pigtail).  This should go to the LINE side neutral of this GFCI device.

The black wire should go onto the LINE side hot.

LOAD is not useful here and can't be used.


Many gas appliances have a "Pilot mode" where they will just burn a pilot light, and ignore the thermostat setting. Typically a 3-position control reading "Off-Pilot-On" and it sounds like yours is probably of that type and was in "pilot."

Turning this into a hunt for a gas leak is just plain illogical.

Almost certainly what the tech flipped from "Pilot" to "on" (and was internally laughing all the way to the bank about.)


Installing Coax & Cat6 in 2-Gang with Electrical?

Yes you can, as long as you keep the conductors separated. However, you should likely avoid it if possible. Common practice is to keep power and communications circuits in separate stud bays.

National Electrical Code allows you to put power and communication circuits in the same box, as long as all the conductors are separated by a permanent barrier or listed device.

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Chapter 8 Communications Systems

  Article 800 Communications Circuits

  800.133 Installation of Communications Wires, Cables,
  and Equipment.

  (A) Separation from Other Conductors.

  (1) In Raceways, Cable Trays, Boxes, Cables, Enclosures and Cable Routing Assemblies.

  (d) Electric Light, Power, Class 1, Non–Power-Limited
  Fire Alarm, and Medium-Power Network-Powered Broadband
  Communications Circuits in Raceways, Compartments,
  and Boxes. Communications conductors shall not be placed in
  any raceway, compartment, outlet box, junction box, or similar
  fitting with conductors of electric light, power, Class 1, non–
  power-limited fire alarm, or medium-power network-powered
  broadband communications circuits.

  Exception No. 1: Where all of the conductors of electric
  light, power, Class 1, non–power-limited fire alarm, and
  medium-power network-powered broadband communications
  circuits are separated from all of the conductors of communications
  circuits by a permanent barrier or listed divider.

Here's an example of a listed device:

From a Carlon sales brochure


Entertainment Area is cooling required with this setup? Where to position fans?

After months of testing I can confirm there is no issues. The area contains enough hollow space for the heat to rise and disperse with no form of overheating.


Can running both elements of a water heater at the same time increase pressure?

The unit is absolutely NOT designed to run with both elements on. This will void any warranty or safety standards of the unit. For the plumber, or anyone else, to suggest this is ok is EXTREMELY irresponsible.

Besides, while running both elements will heat the water up faster, it will not likely increase volume by much. To increase the volume, you need to......increase the volume. IE: bigger tank.


Likelihood 1: Since the GFCI is the new thing, it is miswired.

This usually happens when someone is replacing a plain receptacle with the GFCI, hooks up the supply wires to the two LINE screws, and finds themselves with wires left over.   Those used to go on the extra screws on the receptacle, which were for the purpose of being spares.  However, GFCIs don't have any spares, just the two LINE screws.

This is where novices typically peek under the warning tape that says "Do Not Use, for wizards only" in as many words, and they see two more screws. Voila, somewhere to attach my spare wires!   Except those aren't spares, they are the LOAD terminals intended for extending GFCI protection to other outlets.

Sometimes this mistake inadvertently leads to extending GFCI protection to other circuits, yay I guess.  Other times, this is miswired, and causes nuisance trips.

Likelihood 2: Or your light has a ground fault

Suppose you build an X Detector because X is a common failure point in your situation.  And it immediately detects X.  The detector must be bad, right?  That is exactly how people react to GFCI trips. One guy bought $75 of new GFCIs because he could not believe his $30 coffeemaker had a ground fault.

I imagine that you did not have a GFCI before.   So maybe the lamp has had a ground fault this entire time, and you just didn't know it.  You can test that by removing the ground wire temporarily, so the fixture has no ground; but beware: its chassis will be energized at 120V if it in fact has a ground fault!  Don't leave it that way, no matter how much it seems like an easy fix.

That's not a surprise with old fluorescent magnetic ballasts. I would say in your light upgrade, you "zigged when you should have zagged".  Buying expensive LEDs that absolutely depend on maintaining a ballast does not protect you from failure of the ballast. Instead I would have bought a quality electronic ballast cheaper than the LED "tubes", and just stayed with real fluorescent.   Now you have two choices:

replace the ballast  (and retain the ability to rollback to real fluorescent if those LEDs turn out to be a piece o' junk) -- consult their instructions for the type of ballast to buy; it matters.
sell those LED "tubes" on craigslist and buy direct-wire LED "tubes", and rewire the fixture to bypass the ballast and feed 120V straight to the LEDs.


Is there any feasible way to work with live electrical wiring?

Professional electricians work on live circuits all the time. They don't shut down the powergrid when they have to climb a telephone pole. ;)

The key with working with ANY electricity is to make sure you aren't grounded and providing a path for the current. This typically involves using all sorts of various insulators...rubber gloves...rubber shoes...not using metal tools, not being on a metal ladder, etc, etc.

But yea, whenever possible, kill the power first.


About how much would replacing a septic tank cost me?

I found some rough estimates at costhelper.com

  Installing/replacing a conventional
  septic system (including the tank)
  averages  $2,000 -$5,000 in the
  Midwest, but can be  $4,000 -$12,000
  or more in areas where materials and
  labor rates are higher.

  Enhanced, engineered or alternative
  septic systems that use mounds,
  sand/peat filters, aerobic systems
  and/or constructed wetlands can cost
  $10,000 -$20,000 or more, according to
  the Rhode Island Regional Water
  Quality Program. These alternative
  septic systems work better than the
  conventional approach for sites with
  high groundwater or slowly/rapidly
  percolating soil, or near drinking
  water supplies, wetlands, coastal
  ponds or other water resources.

  The cost of a septic tank alone runs
  about $500 -$1,800 depending on size
  (ranging from 300-1,000 gallons) and
  type. Piping and other needed items
  adds another $100 -$200 to the total
  cost of materials.


Can old concrete fragments be cleaned and used as crushed stone?

Recycled concrete is used for several different purposes.  It can be used "as is" for bulk
fill / drainage / etc.

When cleaned, crushed, and graded for size, it can be used as a base underneath a new concrete pour.

Recycled concrete can also be used as aggregate within the new concrete.  Several factors must be taken into account to ensure that it will not weaken the integrity of the new concrete (moisture retention, etc).  Typically, up to 30% of the aggregate can be replaced with properly processed recycled concrete.

However, concrete is generally recycled in large scale plants where they can reliably clean, crush, sort, and distribute the incoming material.  It is doubtful that you could do this economically in the small scale.

More recycled concrete info


How do I prevent my screen door from opening too far?

You can always install the spring.

Kids really love playing with these.  Until it slams onto their little fingers.

Or you can install a closer.

These you mount high and it will limit the amount how far back a door will go and how fast the door closes.  You can also lock it open when you bring the groceries in.  If you already have a closer it either needs adjusting or maybe it's not mounted correctly to do what you need.

Also, you might consider if you don't have it is a locking latch.

Edit  After I read comments placed while writing this.

I spent a few weeks one summer building and installing these until the state said I was too you to work with the tools.  I can adjust them but for the ife of me I couldn't tell anyone.  I did find this:

There are two ways to control a pneumatic door closer:

Adjusting the bracket that attaches the closer to the door.
Turning the screw on the end of the closer that regulates the rate at which the air is released from the cylinder.

If the door doesn’t close all the way, adjust the bracket:

Open the door and slide the stop out to hold the cylinder open.
Loosen the screws that attach the bracket to the door and move the bracket further out (toward the door handle).
Or remove the pin that secures the cylinder to the bracket and move it out to a hole further away.

If the door slams shut or closes too slowly, adjust the pneumatic cylinder:

To slow the closing, turn the screw on the end of the pneumatic cylinder clockwise.
To speed up the closing, turn the screw counterclockwise.

If adjusting doesn’t help, the closer may need to be replaced. Take your old door closer with you to the home improvement center to be sure the replacement will fit the hardware on your door. Some pneumatic door closers work better than others, so buy a quality one.


Do I need to treat the ends of PT lumber?

The pressure treating commonly used today does not penetrate the lumber 100%. I'm assuming mostly financial reasons at play here (time, cost of materials, etc). I highly suggest any cut ends that you see untreated wood at the center, be treated with off the shelf, brush on preservative. You will be well served here. Why take that chance over a few extra minutes, and a relatively small amount of dollars on a presumably several hundred, to several thousand dollar investment?


What type of foam to fill this pipe hole?

Great Stuff can be used, but I would not fill it with anything especially if I did not know what it was - its purpose.

You really should find out what the purpose of that pipe is. Is the pipe part of an old drain left after a bad remodel, a vent pipe?

If the pipe is PVC or Metal you can just cap it off - they make caps for these pipes less than $5 USA.


How do I know if the canister of silica gel or strips of vapor corrosion inhibitor have lose its effectiveness in absorb moisture?

Silica Gel often has a color indicator, either going from blue(dry) to pink(wet), or from orange(dry) to green(wet). By heating the gel to 250 °F for 2 hours, you can restore the gel to its dry state and reuse it.


What is a good generator for emergency backup?

You should hire an electrician to help you with this, since you don't sound qualified to wire up a generator properly. She can help you figure out the right way to do this. However, it's good for you to be well-informed going in to this. So:

Generators are rated in several ways:

Peak load. Starting a motor (like a pump or fridge compressor) draws a lot of current (amps) for just a moment. You want to make sure your generator can handle that.
Nominal load. If your fridge and sump pump and well pump are all running at the same time, can the generator handle the load? Add up all the loads of what you plan to run. I've ready that it's good to keep a generator running at 50% - 75% capacity most of the time, but that was in an off-grid RV context; it may or may not apply to you.
240V vs. 120V. Smaller generators usually only put out 120V. If your sump pump or well pump requires 240V, you'll need one that can do that.
Fuel type. If you already use propane or natural gas for heat, it can be convenient to use that fuel for your generator. Otherwise you'll need to keep gas or diesel on hand. Diesel is less explosive. Gas engines are easier to work on. Use a fuel preservative like Sta-Bil to keep the gas fresh.

Be sure to exercise your generator regularly, per the manufacturer's instructions. (My RV generator wants to run for 30 minutes at 50% load every month.)

A permanently-installed generator must be on a transfer switch. This will disable the connection to the power grid when the generator is providing power. This is critical to protect line workers doing repairs on the grid after a storm. You can even have the whole system be automatic, so if you are evacuated or on vacation the generator can kick in and save your stuff.

Think about where you want the generator. Close to the transfer switch & main breaker panel will reduce cost of wiring.

The smaller your generator is, the cheaper it will be to buy, install, maintain, and run. A simple way to approach this problem is to buy a portable generator that will run one of those 3 loads at a time (sump pump, well pump, fridge). Plug each appliance in to the generator one at a time, as needed. Pump out the basement, then fill the well reservoir, then draw down the fridge. (Filling your fridge with bottles of water will add thermal mass.) Remember that the generator must remain outdoors, to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. This only works if your pumps are plug-in, not hard wired, and if they're close enough to run a reasonable extension cord to them from the generator.


Why does my Rinnai Infinity water heater fire up after turning off the cold tap?

I had the same problem with the heater firing up when the toilet was refilling from the cold waterline. I put a non-return valve on the pipe just below the heater on the cold water inlet. It has fixed the problem: no odd firing of the heater any more.


Good looking, easy to install alternatives to drywall

I like MDO plywood (medium density overlay plywood). MDO has a resin paper on one side that you can paint. It comes in 4’ x 8’ x 1/2” thick sheets. (I think it comes thicker too.)

The only way to “cover” the joints is with a batten. However, the edges are trimmed true and straight, so the edges can be butted together easily.

BTW, any wall or ceiling in a garage that is adjacent to a habitable space must have a 1-hour fire rated protection on it...like 5/8” gypsum board Type-X or 1/2” gypsum board Type-C on supports spaces no more than 16” on center. But the MDO can be on top of it for the finish


How to hide light-colored wires in a dark-colored cabinet?

There's stick-on wire chases that can be purchased.  I think the usual big box hardware stores carry them.  Slide the wire inside, peel off the sticky, and bury it in a corner.  You won't see it.

Google plastic raceway cable organizers.  The first one that came up says it was available in black or ivory.  http://cableorganizer.com/economical-latching-raceway/


Can you wrap HVAC Ductwork with heat shrink film to seal leaks?

What you linked to may be the simplest solution for now since the HVAC guy goobered up the duct work with mastic.

Otherwise the tape that J Hirsch linked to at HD would be the fix for it, and it still may if the mastic that was used will allow it to hold, if the duct is NOT flex duct, so there is backing where the tape is applied. If it is flex duct and there is backing, like where the duct attaches to the collar at the unit, then it will work...possibly. Again the mastic may keep it from bonding well. If the duct is clean, free from dust, that stuff will stick really well.

Using the heat shrink stuff may come at a great cost unless you go to a marina where they use the stuff regularly for winterization for the upper deck of the boats in the storage yard. But that may be really wide stuff, but a 3 ft wide strip could be cut off the end and it may get you a 12 X 3ft piece for example.

Explain what you need it for and you may be surprised, the folks may even give you tips on how to work with it. Whenever I use something that is not the norm for a particular item, the folks that have it, once they understand what I am needed to accomplish are usually more than willing to help. Then..... sometimes...


Is it possible to add a "C" wire to my electric heater?

On the schematic, the BL wire in the section labeled "Low Voltage Field Connection" near the bottom of the diagram. That's the C wire.

Click for larger view

It appears as though the "C" wire is bonded to the chassis, so you should be able to connect the C wire from the thermostat to the chassis as well.

In the last photo, if you follow the yellow wire from the thermostat cable. It connects to a yellow wire from another cable, which I would assume leads to your A/C system.   The blue wire from the A/C cable is attached to another blue wire, that blue wire ties in with all the other "C" wires.   So you could connect the C wire from the thermostat, in with those blue wires as well.

Click for larger view


IMO, a sloping piece would look awful.

Better to find something that 'explains' the transition. Normally, this wouldn't be an issue if you have a doorway or archyway between the two rooms, so that you would have an architrave that would create a vertical division between the two rooms.

If the two rooms merge, the ideal would obviously been to have discovered the difference beforehand and to cut down the height of the baseboard in the room with the higher floor to end up with a consistent baseboard height. I am assuming that you don't wish to remove any and cut it down (or build up the lower baseboard, if that's possible, for example if it is not molded then you could add additional height without removing what's there).

If it is molded, then I would cut a section of the molding and create vertical 'ends' to both the high and low sections (for example with a mitered joint, like a picture frame), making sure that the vertical pieces join neatly to both ends of the existing horizontal runs, and also to each other, thus creating a division, but one that will hopefully look sensible.


From the sounds of it I would suggest that it is time to replace the front door lock. Be aware that there is a huge range of quality in door locks and door knob units. The lowest quality ones are often what is found on mass built homes, condos and apartments because it saves the builder a lot of money when they are buying 100's at a time. The lower quality ones are more apt to give you trouble as well.

Since you are only looking to fix one door lock it would be worth it to look over the available units and select one that is better quality. That often comes with a bit higher price as well. It has also been my experience that higher quality units tend to have a much more solid feel to them and contain few or no plastic parts.


Can I pour concrete walls between these structural posts?

You will need to dig/form a footer for your wall, appropriate in size and depth to support the wall itself and for frost heave in your area.

You could then form and pour, or build a block wall, between the posts. It will need to be reinforced (rebar) if you want it to last, and if stabilizing a slope it would need to be strong (tie-backs?), waterproofed for soil contact, and hydraulic considerations taken (gravel backfill, drains, etc.)


Diagnosing a suspected multi wire branch circuit

Years ago handle ties were not required. They have been for decades , if you think it’s is a multi wire turn off both breakers verify both hots in your box are dead, you can open your breaker panel and most of the time NMB or Romex is used. There will be a red on 1 breaker a black on the other going to a cable with a ground and a neutral, that would be 100% verification.


You need to buy something to break up the rust fusion you have going on.  WD-40 makes a variety but there are many at your local DIY center.

I would then tap around the drain.  Then get a blunt/dull metal block or chisel and hold it against the inner straps and tap on those counter-clockwise.  The tapping (with a hammer or mallet) is probably the key to breaking up the rust bond.  You can't just start cracking it hard or you could snap one of the center straps or warp the outside.


Capping a Side Spray Opening on a Moen Faucet

You only need to disconnect the spray wand if you have a portable connection to the faucet nozzle with the faucet in the on position.
If you connect to the plumbing so the faucet is in the off position you do not need to remove your sprayer.
Sorry I did not catch that sooner but connecting prior to the faucet it self is the same as every other point on the plumbing system. At the nozzle faucet on 100% hot I can see the sprayer not being rated for that combination of pressure and heat.  If you add an adapter to your hot line for the quick disconnect that would be the way around having to disconnect the sprayer.


Connecting TV to better external speakers: Type of connection

According to the manual, the AV output section has L and R audio outputs that you could connect to an audio amplifier.

The "Video" connector will be composite video, the L and R audio outputs will be typical phono (AKA RCA) connectors at audio "line" levels.

Twin phono to twin phono cable used for stereo audio (Red is Right channel) and triple phono to triple phono cable used for composite video plus stereo audio (or for some types of component video).

If your speaker/amp has a 3.5mm stereo input you need a cable with ends like this instead:

though you can make up a lead from several combinations.

You will need a normal HiFi amplifier plus passive speakers or active speakers (AKA monitors in audio terminology) which are powered and include a built-in amplifier in one of the speakers - this will have phono or 1/4 jack plug or 3.5mm stereo jack inputs and a volume control.

You can't use USB loudspeakers of the sort often used with PCs.


Adding a hot tub which needs a 220 60 amp circuit

Assuming that the wires are appropriate for 60 amps (6awg copper is rated for 55 amps at 60c and I believe you are allowed to “round up” to the next higher breaker size, 60 amps) then yes, you can simply replace the old dual 30 amp breaker with a dual 60. (Cap off or remove the old wires running to the 30.)

Note that a hot tub requires GFCI protection. This can be done by using a 60 amp GFCI breaker in your panel or by using a GFCI cutoff switch near the hot tub.


How can I identify which neighboring houses are fed from the same distribution transformer?

The only way to tell for sure it to shut off the transformer and see who lost power. I obviously can't recommend that "solution".

Another problem is that even if you can tell you're on same transformer, it still won't be a good indication if it will work EOP.

The only reliable way is to plug in the adapter and try. You probably can do it for (almost) free: in most jurisdictions law allows consumers to return undamaged goods purchased remotely (eg online) for no reason. Check out if you're eligible. If it won't work, all you risk is 2-way shipping fee. Just make sure you're making the purchase as a consumer and not as a business entity.


Cold surfaces accumulate water from the air.  For an air conditioner, the indoor unit is the cold one that needs a drain line running somewhere to get rid of accumulated condensate (otherwise the indoor unit will drip water).  In the case of a heat pump in heating mode, the outdoor unit will accumulate water, but there is no need to pipe that water anywhere else.

Because mini-splits are often installed away from any convenient drains, pumps are frequently used to send the condensate where needed.  Depending on the pump used, the condensate can be moved long distances.

With proper installation the condensate can be disposed of into the sewer or often directly outside.  Where condensate is disposed and how the piping must be installed is determined by manufacturer specifications and local building codes.  Your suppliers should be familiar with the requirements.


Why won't my clothing iron work in one outlet but works in others?

It is probably as simple as one of the plug prongs not making good contact with the outlet. Try bending them in slightly by pinching them together, then putting it in the outlet again.


Sub flooring requirements for 2 X 1 rectangle tile

Wow sure that floor would bounce. Rip up the old tile and use plywood decking. I can’t remember if you can get 3/4 in t&g but know you can get 1”. Since the strips are not t&g I would want to go thicker if possible. If not use a lot of construction adhesive and screw the plywood down.

Next step is your backer board. (I usually put thinset or mastic under my backer and screw it down.) The more solid your base is the better chance of a long life you have (for your tile). After that you are ready to tile.

The threshold will be angled but that is the only way to do it right. I have dropped a finishing hammer from the ceiling on a 4” tile.  I was sure I bullseyed the tile but it was ok. I got lucky but part of that luck came from the base the tile was on. I have repaired tile that a heavy cooking spoon fell from the counter and cracked the tile--it did not have a good base.

Don’t skimp, you should not have an observable flex in the flooring if you want it to last.


Two white and two black wires in ceiling box

Alright there are two options.

1.Either your light was fed power from the panel (or a plug etc...) first.

OR

The light switch box was fed power first and your light has two cables in it because it goes to another light after that one.

You need to first figure out where your strait hot power is coming in from. I understand that you believe you have found it. Just make sure to double check. Like you say use just a basic light switch (not that dimmer) and test for hot again. Is that wire you believed was hot , still hot when you have the switch in an up and down position? I will give you both options for wiring below. If there is power in both the up and down position of your light switch, than that is the hot power.

If the light was fed power first than here is how you connect the wires. Take your black (hot all the time wire) and marrett it onto the white of the opposite cable (that brings hot power down to your switch). On the same cable (the white you just used that goes to your switch) put the black wire onto the light (under the copper looking screw). Now you have one white wire left (it goes back to your panel somehow or another) so attach that to your silver coloured screw on your light. Done. You have a path, the hot going thru your switch, coming back to the light as switched power, going through your bulb and back to your panel.
If your hot wire feeds your light switch first. Heres how you wire it. Your switch box will be opened from testing and finding constant hot power in it so lets start there. Take your always hot black and put it on your light switch, than take the other black in that box and put it on the light switch. Take your white that is in the same cable as your always hot black and wire nut it with your other white. Now go up to your light box. Take the two blacks and wire nut them together with a pigtail. The pigtail will go to the copper coloured screw on your light. And take the whites and wire nut them together with a pigtail that you put on the silver looking screw on your light. Done. Power goes thru your switch, out of the switch to the light, thru the light and back on the white/neutral to the panel.

If you are using a light that you do not attach to screws you attach to wires, than the copper coloured screw is the equivalent of a black wire. And the silver coloured screw is the equivalent of a white wire. Your dimmer might be ruined but just try first with your basic switch and than add the dimmer in after to see if its ruined...

Have fun!


Can porcelain tile planks be installed in a crawl space house?

I fully agree with Isherwood that it depends on the stability of the floor. I have attached tile directly to T&G flooring but it was a bit tighter or more solid looking than yours looks like. I would put down backer board in your case I would trowel a layer of thin set with a large notch trowel put the backer board down and screw the backer to the flooring doing the entire floor with backer.  This will make your new floor +1/2” thicker but it will last a lifetime. If your floor is really solid you may be able to use larger tiles without backer and not have problems but I would caution not to use less than 2x the width of the existing boards to prevent problems with slightly uneven boards larger tiles are better in this case. After many years of putting tile down I almost always use at least a thin backer with the above method.


How does one properly seal a celling vent of a forced air hvac system?

All my registers have a black foam strip around them, like the foam weather strips you can get at your home store. The strips are about 1" x 1/4"  by perimeter of register.


What screwdriver I should use for this screw head?

It appears that the hex sides of that screw head have been rounded off due to the use of an ill-fitting hex wrench. A metric and an SAE hex wrench will both fit in there, but the use of the wrong one, while it feels like it fits properly, can be just loose enough that if the set screw is corroded in a bit, the wrench can slip and round over the edges.
You will need a screw extractor, like this:

Image courtesy of Lowes.com. No endorsement of brand or vendor intended or implied.
You insert this into a drill and run the drill in reverse. The extractor has a reverse thread that drills into the head of the screw and also turns the screw to back it out.
For the small added expense (and probably near impossibility of finding them individually), I'd suggest that you purchase a set of 3-5 extractors. That will help ensure you have the proper size for this screw, and you'll have a variety for future use. Note that these should work on nearly any screw with any type of screw head - slotted, Phillips, Torx, or other - not just the hex head of your set screw.
Once you have it out, you'll need to take it back to the hardware store/home-improvement center to buy an exact match (thread & length) replacement. As much work as you put into getting it out, you don't want to reinsert it and have to do it again...


can you combine a regular return filter if you have a electrostatic hvac filter system

Yes standard fiber filters can be added, I suggest adding them at the return point if possible this keeps the heavy dust particles out of the duct system. Having a granddaughter that has severe breathing problems I can tell you keeping the electrostatic filter clean is your best bet. Adding fiber filters for large dust particles is the next best thing.
Adding filters that are very fine are actually counter productive as they slow the air down and reduce the exchanges through the filter system. Also systems are designed for a flow and excessive obstruction can cause shorter system life and even trigger safety components causing the furnace to shut down or cooling system to ice up.
The last few times where my area was choked with smoke from Forrest fires my grand daughter was not hospitalized as has happened in the past.
The electrostatic elements did need to be cleaned at 2 weeks where it is normally a monthly thing and there are the cheap fiberglass filters at the entrance(s) to the system plus the electrostatic.


In touch up painting, do you have to worry about the border between the existing paint and the newly touched up area?

The touch up area probably won't be markedly different from the rest of the wall. It's already got 2 coats, it's the same can of paint and it's only been a few weeks.

The difference between 1 coat and 2 coats of paint is usually fairly significant, but adding a third coat usually doesn't make a noticeable difference.


What you've described is the correct way to do this.

As the currents in the two phase wires are fed from different phases, they do not add together fully, and so the neutral will not be overloaded.


How do I connect a subpanel with neutral and ground to the same bus bar in main panel?

bus bar singular?

There are supposed to be two bus bars in every panel.  One for neutrals, and one for grounds.

In the main panel ONLY, they are to be bonded together. This is what references your electrical system to earth voltage.  It must only be done one place in a system.

Because of the required bond in the main panel, a great many electricians conclude that there is no difference between neutral and ground in the main panel since the N-G bond is right there.  And they simply spam all neutrals and grounds onto the same bus.   That logic is actually... reasonable... in the main panel.

However... If you want to be a precise and competent worker, then you separate them always, as if every panel were a subpanel, and let the neutral-ground bond do its job.  This has a couple of neat benefits for you.

if you convert that panel to a subpanel later, it's cake.
if you want to troubleshoot a ground fault, you can remove the neutral-ground bond, and replace it with a wire which you loop 10 times and clamp an ammeter around the loop. Now the meter indicates ground leakage at 10x resolution.  It'll take you literally 30 seconds of snapping off breakers before you find which breaker it is.  That was easy.
not that this is typically done in residential in the US, partly because of risk of damage to hardwired loads and controls... but you can separate the neutral-ground bond, then do insulation testing (megging) on the conductors to ground, to affirm no ground faults in the wiring proper.  This is especially important at higher voltages like 480/277.


What would be a fair day rate for a 1-day excavation job involving 1 person and a 24" bucket excavator?

Price is going to depend on many factors that vary by location.
Call several different local contractors, pick the one you like best.
Get the biggest machine you can fit on the site, eg: a 4 foot bucket holds 8 times as much dirt as a 2 foot bucket, so it can turn a 1 day job into a 1 hour job.


I believe this is a 118mm j-type long / r7s base halogen lamp they do come in 500w , but also smaller 300,150,100 & 50w. When installing a halogen use the packing material or a clean tissue to hold the lamp. Finger oils cause the lamp to overheat and sometimes explode.


What type of primer and paint are better used in a bathroom?

Ideally, if it's standard sheetrock, I'd suggest removing it. You normally want to use 'greenboard' (sheetrock with a waxed paper layer) or, even better, the paperless wallboard products like Densarmor (they use a fiberglass layer rather than paper). The paper is what the mildew will like to 'eat' so removing as much of that as you can, the better.

Barring that, they do make paints specifically for bathrooms. They usually have some sort of anti-mildew additive.

Finally, be sure the bathroom is properly vented. That, alone, is the single best solution. If there is no ceiling fan, invest in that first.

To answer the specifics:

Latex is water based, so that's the same thing. And is what you want to use--specifically ones labeled for bathrooms and high-moisture areas (ie, they have the mildew preventative additive). You COULD use Oil based paint, and that has historically been something to use in a bathroom, but latex paints have come a long way and Oil based interior paint is now a rarity and likely not what most DIYers would want to use anyways (it's a bit more finicky and smelly to apply and a lot more messy to clean up).


How should I build the concrete footings for my deck?

Burying the wood post will cause it to rot prematurely. Even ground-contact rated Pressure Treated lumber won't last forever.

The only benefit of burying the post (besides it being easier to do) is lateral stability. i.e. you can sometimes neglect lateral bracing this way.

Best practice for wood-post decks is to have the concrete extend above grade and use a stand-off post anchor to hold the wood post to concrete.

Here is an example of this with some knee-braces for lateral bracing.
The braces don't match so I find this somewhat ugly, but the image is clear and easy to understand.

Footings here don't need to be deep so I often form my own square ones but sometimes I use bigfoot forms and I really like those. Although Shirlock's "mushroom" method is more than adequate if you are only required 8" wide.


Will the hole drilled into the furnace door cause problems? Gases etc. escaping?

There's no problem. In a healthy furnace, combustion gases are contained inside various components housed in the upper cabinet.
If you think through the airflow path of your HVAC system, there's normally a vacuum on the lower chamber of the furnace cabinet because it's part of the return duct--it contains the fan. That means that air is drawn into that space, joins all the other incoming return air, and passes through the furnace's heat exchanger and out through the main exit trunk. A tiny hole just creates a miniscule return path from the furnace room.
I've done exactly this with one of my furnaces after upgrading the circuit board to one with an indicator, so that I could see the indicator from outside. I applied clear packaging tape over the 3/4" hole I made just for the heck of it. I put two pieces back to back to eliminate the exposed adhesive, then I framed that with tape on the inside of the panel. It held well. Obviously you don't want to use anything that could get drawn into the fan cage.


Can I remove or relocate a beam that acts as a rafter tie?

Before you make any structural changes to a building it would be very wise to hire a "structural engineer" to make sure that you do not reduce the integrity of the building. Just removing braces that may be there so you can change the internal space in any structure, move any walls or load bearing wall could be a costly mistake for the building and for anyone inside the building. PLEASE, hire an expert to make sure that you do not do anything stupid or make a mistake that can't be undone. my 2 cents


How does the decibel rating vary with the BTU capacity of an air conditioning unit?

Home Depot lists decibel ratings, and in this comparison of four Frigidaire models, the largest one (also the most expensive, which suggests they might've included additional soundproofing, or used higher quality components) is half as loud as the others. BTU capacity doesn't seem to correlate with the dB ratings.

When it comes to Haier window units, which specifically optimize for quietness, the 6050 BTU model is rated at 43 dBA, while the 8000 BTU one is rated at 46 dBA.


how do I smooth out the bottom of a hole in granite

So, how rough is the bottom of the hole?
Was the hole drilled in steps from small to large or was it a knocked out core.
Some ideas could be rotating wood dowel of a suitable diameter with sand to smooth out the surface.
How smooth does it need to be - as long as the tea light sits reasonably square then it should be suitable.
There are low speed grinders designed for finishing holes like that but they can usually be found at stonemasons or marble suppliers - you may consider asking there, but it depends on how big are your pieces and how many for the cost.


What does NEC require for strapping down conduit and wire here?

2014 NEC Article 352.30(A) states that PVC conduit should be supported within 3' of each outlet box, disconnect, panel, etc. That also Includes strapping the 90% ells you have installed. I can see that you have installed expansion joints so the strap has to go above the joint to allow the joint to expand with the grade.

Also the ground wire is attached above and below the expansion joint binding the joint and connection. You would be better off attaching the ground to the building instead of the conduit as the comments have already indicated.

Good luck.


How to add a C wire to an old Lennox attic furnace GS810-105N

This has been solved. I tracked the two wires that ran to the condenser, figured out which was hot and which was common. The common for the condenser will also work as the c wire for the thermostat. At least in my case.


Is a 4 Ohm reading on a dryer heating element bad?

Was your breaker tripping? Did you disconnect the element before taking your resistance reading? If you put 4 ohms on 240 volts you get 60 amps. So I suspect your heating element has some inductive quality you are not measuring with your meter or it was still connected in the circuit. Otherwise, your 30 amp dryer breaker would be tripping.

Resistive elements don't normally drop in resistance. They usually open up. This would mean you would get a reading of infinity (open) with your meter if the element is broke. I would more suspect something in the controls, like your low temperature thermostat is not closing to turn the element on. (is that what you called the Thermal cutoff?) Or the contacts on it are burned beyond usefulness.

Sounds like you are getting good experience at troubleshooting electrical here.


Can lag bolts go fully through both pieces?

Are you replacing all of the treads?  If so, can you tear out the old, rotten stringer so you don't need to sister in a new one?  That would be best if the part of the stringer supporting some treads is beginning to fail.  It will also make it easier to use a modern connector between the top of the stringer and the joist supporting the landing.
If you can't tear out the old, I think framing nails are a better choice than lag bolts.  They'll distribute shearing forces across more nails and therefore more wood.
Lag bolts are often used to hold a beam together but it's the ends of the bolt and the outside faces of the beam doing the work.  In your case, you want the fasteners to transfer load from one compromised stringer to the new one; and you want to spread that out with several framing nails, instead of creating a point load inside of the stringers with fewer (but larger) bolts.
Be sure to use galvanized or stainless steel nails since it's an outdoor project.  If you're unsure which, your local building supplier will know (and they probably won't even sell stainless nails if you don't live near saltwater.)


How to tighten a circular saw without a spindle / arbor lock?

I have used a screwdriver.

UNPLUG THE SAW.

finger tighten the bolt as far as you can, set the screwdriver across the fence and slide it into the teeth so that  blade tooth is up against the shaft of the screwdriver and can not turn. This is usually enough to get the arbor bolt to snug up enough so that it pinches the arbor onto the blade. Perhaps a vise grip would work as well to grab the blade.


Do I need anything over the wall board around wood trimmed garage door openings?

I would put some flashing there. I was just doing some work on my back door and while it leads directly to the house not the garage. There was some flashing that went under the siding and over the trim. (For the horizontal piece) You're right OSB does soak up water pretty well. Once wet it doesn't stay together very well either.


It will die in the sun. It may take a few months, but it will die. Listen to the vendor.


What is causing my laminate flooring to become warped?

I doubt it qas from rhe cleaning unless standing water or harsh chemicals were involved.  Find out what chemicals were used to clean the flooring.  Some (all?) laminate flooring is very susceptible to chemicals and recommend either only water or special cleaner.

IMO, This is most likely a moisture problem.  Check any and all sources of water near the flooring.  Perhaps a leaking dishwasher or sink is allowing moisture under the flooring.

For perspective, my wife spilled some bubble solution on our laminate and it was cleaned up less than 1 min later but it managed to soak into the seams a bit.  That seam raised up about an 8th of an inch and took nearly 2 weeks before it was completely dry.  As it dried, it slowly retreated back to level with the surrounding flooring.


Overloads don't trip a GFCI. Period. If there was an overload, it would trip the actual circuit breaker. Since this is a GFCI/receptacle (as opposed to a GFCI/breaker) and the GFCI trips, that is a GFCI problem - 100% - and not an overcurrent situation.

14 AWG raises the question of the size of the breaker. If it is 15A then everything is good. If it is 20A then the breaker is oversized for the wires. If that is the case, the breaker should be changed to 15A. That is a general (fire) safety issue, unrelated to the GFCI issue. But even if it is 14 AWG on a 20A breaker with 18A flowing through (therefore over the allowed safe current for the wires but not enough to trip the breaker), it would cause overheating of the wire and potentially a fire - but would probably not trip the GFCI.

Now back to the real problem. Something is tripping the GFCI. Most likely that is some current leaking to ground. That is what GFCI is designed to protect. That also perfectly matches when humidity is high during the rainy season. When water gets in places in electrical devices that it shouldn't, electricity can move in unwanted pathways. It takes a lot of current to trip the regular breaker. It only takes a little to trip a GFCI or to injure or kill someone.

The good news is that it sounds like you already found the problem: "we disconnected one of the fans which stopped the tripping." If that's a consistent/reliable fix then the problem is either in that fan or the wiring going to it.

As far as startup loads: anything is possible. GFCI and AFCI both have sophisticated electronics. A GFCI should be relatively simple and immune to anything except actual current leakage, unlike AFCI which is trying to detect some relatively hard-to-detect problems and could be "confused" more easily by motors 'n things. However, newer GFCIs with automatic testing have more sophisticated electronics - and therefore are more susceptible to problems from other causes.


Mounting pull-up/exercise beam in corner above window

No, there's no problem doing so. In fact, you probably have the best substructure there. You'll find a 2x6 or larger header either directly above the window or below the top wall plate. You should also find "cripple" or "pin" studs on standard centers over or under the header.

Be aware that some header designs leave a 1/2" or larger insulated gap between the framing and the drywall if the load-bearing members are sandwiched together and installed at the outside of the wall thickness. You could potentially cause significant drywall damage by pulling your lumber tight with bolts. Press firmly on the drywall where you plan on bolting to feel for flex, then proceed slowly when tightening, keeping an eye out for movement.


OK to attach Tyvek or any breathable membrane directly to studs?

I'm not an expert on this but based on what I know about breathable membranes in building construction I don't think you would want to have the membrane on the interior side of the OSB or plywood sheeting. I'm also not sure why you would want to do that.
The problem is that these membranes are water-proof but vapor-permeable. With the OSB between the membrane and the weather you're probably going to have moisture issues and probably mold/mildew problems in the OSB or plywood. So you'd be defeating one of the main advantages of the membrane.

I believe you want to make sure it's attached to the exterior side of the OSB.

Edit
I'm responding to your comment in my answer so I can include a picture.
Most exterior cladding or siding allows air to circulate under it to solve this problem.

If you install plywood in place of siding over the membrane I do think you will still have the moisture issue. You need a space for air circulation.

Second edit

If you attach the membrane to the studs and then cross-batten over the membrane and into the studs and then the plywood/OSB that would give you room for air circulation but structurally I see it causing problems since I don't see the membrane having the structural integrity to properly support the plywood/OSB.


How do I remove these wall mount faucet handles for my bathtub that have no screws?

You would pop the metal cover off the top.  Use a jeweler fine flat blade screwdriver to work the edge of the metal cover.


How can I best balance current loads among my existing kitchen circuits?

Bad news: putting the fridge on the range hood circuit is a no-go
Your first problem is that you can't, by Code, put a kitchen refrigerator on a general lighting circuit.  This is a function of the way NEC 210.52(B)(1) and its exceptions are worded:

(B) Small Appliances.
(1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.
Exception No. 1: In addition to the required receptacles specified by
210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a general-purpose branch
circuit as defined in 210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, shall be permitted.
Exception No. 2: In addition to the required receptacles specified by
210.52, a receptacle outlet to serve a specific appliance shall be permit‐
ted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes
or greater.

As a result of this, you'll have to either put the fridge ahead of the GFCI on a small appliance circuit, or pull a new homerun from your panel.
Worse news: you can't put a built-in on a small appliance circuit
Furthermore, putting a built-in appliance other than a gas range, cooktop, or oven on a small-appliance branch circuit violates NEC 210.52(B)(2):

(2) No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance
branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other
outlets.
Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to
and support of an electric clock in any of the rooms specified in
210.52(B)(1).
Exception No. 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.

And the kicker: you can't put your chosen microwave on the range hood circuit
Since you're using a built-in microwave, you can't put it on the range hood circuit either, as it'd exceed the 50% limit on fastened-in-place appliances imposed by NEC 210.23(A)(2):

(2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place. The total rating
of utilization equipment fastened in place, other than luminaires, shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating where lighting units, cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment not fastened in place, or both, are also supplied.

Note that if the lights weren't on this circuit, then you could put the microwave and the range hood together on it.  Furthermore, if you used a countertop-type microwave in a cabinet "nook" instead of a built-in appliance, you'd then be able to put the microwave receptacle on the range hood circuit, as well.  But, since neither of those options look to be in the cards, you're stuck pulling a new homerun from your panel.
As to that new homerun...
For this new homerun, I'd pull a 14/2/2 or 12/2/2 (two circuit) cable in order to provide dedicated branch circuits for both the refrigerator and the microwave.  You'll need AFCI protection on both circuits as well, although not GFCI since neither of them are feeding kitchen counter receptacles.


Ceiling fan w/no light - to fan w/lights & remote cntrl - single switch?

You only need a single switch.  This switch will cut all power to the unit.  The fan and lights can be controlled via the remote control.  Usually there are also pull strings to manually switch the lights and fan.


Since you're changing refrigerants, it's recommended to replace the condensing unit (outdoor unit), all the copper refrigerant lines, as well as the evaporator coil (inside the furnace).

It's possible to keep the copper refrigerant lines, though it will require a bunch of extra work. And even still, not replacing the lines can reduce the life of the new unit.

Depending on the new evaporator coil, it may be able to be fit on the existing furnace.  However, if the furnace is old and inefficient, it's a good time to consider upgrading to an efficient unit. The evaporator is not part of the furnace, though it's typically connected to it. So it is possible to change the evaporator, without replacing the furnace.


What is involved in moving the gas line in my basement up a few inches?

I had a plumber friend come to take a look at it.  He notched out the joist an inch and pushed it up.


Major Leak at pressure gauge inside my well house

Buy a shoulder nipple and an isolation valve when you pick up a new pressure gauge. This will make future gauge changes easy. If it's an oil filled pressure gauge add a 90 degree street elbow so gauge sits upright. Then cut the vent on top of gauge or it may read wrong.
Whatever type of gauge you buy, shut off the isolation valve and open only when you need to check pressure. The gauge will last much longer when it's not subject to fluctuations in pressure.


installed new disposal and now dishwasher will not drain

Seems likely that the knockout plug in the drain line on the disposal unit needs to be removed. (It's there for people that aren't connecting a dishwasher.) User Fiasco Labs likes a drift pin and a hammer; I've used a socket on an extension and a hammer. Either way, make sure you don't leave any bits behind.

If that's not the root cause, comment back and we'll do our best to sort you out.


Two Lutron occupancy dimmers for one light

The MSCL isn't quite smart enough to manage this sort of thing

The Lutron MSCL was designed for applications where a single sensor can cover the entire space, but multi-way dimming control is still necessary (say, a modest-sized room with multiple entrances).  As thus, there's no way to use a "remote sensor" with the MSCL, just a standard Lutron Maestro dimming remote, which isn't quite what you want.

However, there is a way to do this

Fortunately for you though, with the use of two gangs of junction box space at each location, it should be possible to do what you want in a smoothly integrated way.  As it turns out, the Leviton Vizia dimming system interoperates with the Leviton IPP series occupancy/vacancy sensors -- this not only allows Vizia remotes to be used to provide multi-way switching with a single occupancy sensor, but allows the IPP0R remote sensor to be used as a matching remote in the Vizia system.

In this setup, the box with the load wire in it gets a Vizia dimmer (VZM10 depicted, but any Vizia dimmer will do) and an IPP0R remote, while the box with the line wire in it gets a Vizia matching remote and an IPP0R remote. Keep in mind that this cannot be extended to a 3rd location without sacrificing dimming or motion sensing at that location (the Vizia system supports 4 matching remotes on a single master, maximum), and that the neutral wire needs to be present at both boxes for this (it is possible to wire this if line and load come in at the same switch box by making the white wire neutral once more, but not if power comes in at the light fixture).  See the diagram below for details -- note that the dashed red lines in the diagram represent the red/yellow wire pigtails present on Vizia dimmers and remotes that use wire pigtails, or a field-fitted pigtail (of any suitable color) connected to the terminal marked RD/YL on Vizia dimmers and remotes that use screw terminals.


Given a circular 8" duct you are dealing with an airflow area of about 50 sq/in.  You currently have 72 sq/in opening.  I haven't seen a picture of your register - some are not as open as others so it is hard for me to know for sure but... with 72 sq/in opening the air would just dribble out.

This is fine for a floor vent that is unobstructed by walls and furniture but usually not what you are going for.  You are usually looking to push the air out a few feet out into the room.  A smaller register does this.  Also somewhat closing a register does this - however this could push air at unadvantageous angles and you don't want air hitting walls and furniture.

Most registers I size are about the same sq/in's as the duct or a little less.  I am looking for the air to be pushed out hard so that it creates airflow in the room.  Big rooms with oversized registers can have hot spots away from the register.  Now the downside of going to small with your register is that it is too loud.  Unless you are severely undersizing your register, the noise is really the only issue.

So a bigger register will not help cool or heat your room better.  Putting the register in a better location and making sure the air is shooting out in an efficient manner and at an efficient angle is key.


How To Stop Hair Going Down Square Shower Drain

You may be able to trim a piece of fiberglass screen material then simply press fit it over that grate.

Overlap the sides and fold them under then press the grate back into place. When it gets too scuzzy simply throw it away. If you're hairy like me, though, this might clog up every single day.


Can I place a cap on my furnace exhaust to keep rainwater out?

"These furnaces". LOL. It is a poor carpenter who blames his hammer.

I'd put a 45 degree elbow on it, pointing away from the intake duct and the roof (or any other structure). From that elbow add a short length of pipe with a 45 degree angle on it (or another 45 elbow), resulting in a vertical exit face orientation. Should keep 95% of the rain out without undue restriction.

You could also just add a 90 degree elbow, but that may not clear your roof as well. This question shows how vents protruding from walls are set up the same.

Disclaimer: I'm not an HVAC technician nor a code expert. I do have gobs of home construction and remodeling experience, as well as two decades of home ownership and improvement. This is what I'd do. YMMV.


Door bore hole too large for new door knob kits

I had a similar problem. I needed to go from a 2" hole to a 1" hole. I got a 2 1/4" hole saw and cut a hole through a piece of wood the same thickness as the door. I took the plug from the hole saw and glued it into the hole in the door. Sanded it, filled it in with a little wood putty and then drilled my 1" hole. Might be a little more work than you want to do but it did work.


Should I put a vapor barrier under metal framing in a basement?

I'm not aware of any requirement or recommendation to use a vapor barrier between a concrete floor and wooden framing, so I can't see why there would be one for metal framing.
Pressure treated lumber could be used for the sill plate if you were doing it in wood, so I'd think that would have a similar water damage resistance to galvanized steel studs.


Installing a Bath Fan Without Attic Access?

Are you going to install a roof vent? If so and the ceiling is only 1' away, you can probably reach in through your 4" roof vent hole and screw into a ceiling joist or rafter tie to mount.

If you are going to vent directly into the attic and avoid cutting the roof open, you may run into problematic mold issues. If you're determined to go this route, your technique of screwing through the enclosure or drilling new holes should hold the fan adequately. The enclosure, aside from the electrical junction box, can take the screws. Remember you can and likely need to pop out the fan to get good access.