Can polyethylene backer rod be used to caulk (silicone) a ceramic tile shower wall to an acrylic base

A 5/8 inch gap is an awfully wide one to try to bridge with silicone caulk. Even with some type of filler I think you are unlikely to get a result that you would be happy with. At least I know I would not be happy.

Silicone caulk needs to be applied all at once to get a nice installation. First off it will not be reasonably possible to squirt out a 5/8 inch bead from a typical caulking tube spigot. Next consider that silicone material applied as a secondary application will not bond and adhere to previously applied bead that has cured.

If I had your issue I would be investigating filling up a majority of the gap area with a tile setting cement that is compatible with the backer materials behind your existing tile installation. I would then cut narrow pieces of tile (you could even band with a contrasting color) that you would set into additional tile setting cement such that it was flush with the existing tile surface. Once these strips were in place grout the spaces between the tiles and strips. Finally finish off with a neat narrow bead of the silicone material in the corner around the tub surface.


Stick with the crushed rock.  In the deeper holes you could start with 1-1/4"minus.  As you get closer to the surface you go smaller and smaller.  forget the dirt.  you are wasting your time.


You indicated that you replaced the igniter/flame rod and that you're getting 29v to the igniter. That 29v should cause the igniter to glow red and the smart valve should sense this and open the valve to the pilot releasing the gas flow. The fact that you're getting 29v to the igniter indicates that the transformer is working properly. Since you have voltage but the smart valve is not releasing gas to the pilot your only recourse is to replace the smart valve. According to Honeywell the smart valve cannot be repaired but must be replaced in it's entirety.
Edit: I did more research on your model. At this point I'm convinced that the smart valve needs to be replaced. I am attaching a link to a troubleshooting guide from Honeywell that supports that diagnosis. It's for the 40" model instead of the 36" but the ignition mechanisms are the same. The ignition is electronic not millivolt. Although you're getting a 29v output to the igniter it isn't operating the gas valve which is in the smart valve. The Honeywell part number is 62L1801. Below is a link to the part - it's expensive. You might try used.
https://www.allpartsinc.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Honeywell+62L1801
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/170931/Superior-B-40ren.html?page=15#manual
Replacing the gas valve will obviously entail redoing the gas connections. If you're uncomfortable doing that you may want to bring in a technician.


In most areas I'm familiar with, gutters don't drain into the sewage or storm drain systems. This looks like a flow diverter, but a very poor one. Are there any holes in the PVC pipe? The ones I've seen are much longer and have holes so they act like a French Drain but they usually head away from the house and not along side of it. You can just add a 90 degree bend to your downspout and direct the rain water away from your house.


Two outlet stopped working after turning on electronic cauterization device

I would turn your breakers off to those outlets and remove the outlets, I believe you will find a bad connection in each outlet probably a back stab. But could be a loose wire nut or broken wire. When this usually happens it is with a heavily loaded circuit , but your 120v load is only about .2 amps. With this device being a 2 wire a surge type power strip really won't make any difference.
To be able to use a wide voltage input with a specific output it is probably a switching power supply that had some kind of fault that after the second attempt cleared an internal short (I would not use this adapter for risk of fire knowing this).  Power strips that have surge supressors work by a device called a metal oxide varistor, these devices dump excessive voltage levels or spikes on the power line to ground. So as I said I would toss this adapter because there is possibly some loose solder floating around or some copper traces from the printed circuit that caused the original problem to your home wiring.


oval undermount lavatory sinks that'd fit 18.25" x 15.25" cutout?

It won't be perfect, but an Ovalyn by American Standard would work with the countertop hanging over the edge all around. Kohler or Bates and Bates will show an inside sink edge beyond the cutout on two sides.


How do I mount this towel rack that was ripped off the wall?

The traditional solution for a pulled out towel rack is to remove the towel rack, patch the holes (usu two on each end) and place the rack slightly higher or lower. An experienced or inventive person can patch the existing hole and, by adding reinforcement, remount in the same location.

These racks are secured to a pair of metal brackets on the wall with the rack fastened to the brackets by small screws on the undersides. To repair it loosen or remove the screws underneath and then lift the rack off. Then deal with remounting on the side that pulled out.

Oftentimes the original installation was inferior and damaged the drywall, leading to premature failure. The traditional mounting for a towel rack is plastic anchors which require drilling a small hole (3/8" dia or less) in the drywall.

Newer anchors don't require drilling. These have a sharp end that can be forced into the drywall and then plastic threads which pull the anchor into the drywall when twisted. The metal screw for the bracket is screwed into the center of the plastic anchor.

However, in this situation you have a large hole which invites a possible quick repair with one of the new Wingit type anchors intended for grab bars. This might or might not work, but I for one would consider it. The Wingit screw has a rather large head and you'd need to be sure that the existing brackets would accept that.

If I were installing towel racks in a rental property I would consider the Wingits towel bars. I happen to think that tubs and showers should be fitted with grab bars even without elderly or disabled users. Stepping into a tub has some risk. The shower may have been turned on but is not up to temperature and the person steps in quickly and off balance to avoid cold spray. At the very least have an 18" or 24" vertical bar at the entrance to the tub and a long (36", 42", 48") bar horizontal on the long wall.

 Base level Wingit requires 3/4" diameter hole

If I were going to use a Wingit for a towel bar, I would plan on using only one per side because of the hole spacing on the standard towel bar. The recommended drill bit is the Wingit Apache200 carbide 3/4" drill bit, but anything that will cut a 3/4" hole in the wall should work. I can imagine trying the tip of a drywall saw if I had to (but would probably regret that).

EDIT The following type of drywall anchor works amazingly well and requires no power tools for installation. It does work in undamaged drywall. Screw-in plastic drywall anchors

One product for a drywall repair is shown here: Insta-Back Drywall Repair kit


using two light switches to control only a GFI (No light involved)

Then from your in power connect the bare ground to the ground terminal of the GFI. Connect the white wire to the GFI. The black wire connects (wire nut) to the other black wire going to the 3 way switch on the deck. The red and white wires from the deck go to the traveler terminals of the 3 way switches (same on both switches). At the GFI add a black wire from it to the common terminal of the 3 way. Add a bare wire between the GFI ground and the 3 way ground terminal. On the deck 3 way connect the black wire to the common terminal. Connect the bare ground to the ground terminal of the switch.


Do I have to remove the thinset before re-installing new cermic tiles

Yes, you should remove the thinset. You can usually chisel it up with a hammer and cold chisel.


Is it ok for vent pipe flashing/boots to have exposed nails?

Typically, no. I NEVER nail in an exposed area of a boot, unless I have no choice, which doesn't happen very often.

All nailing in the exposed parts does is create another place for a possible leak. Not to mention, your roof decking swells and contracts with the weather, which means your boots need to be able to move a little as well...


Is MDF a reliable product for interior trimwork?

Mdf is a fair product for the price.
I always advise clients to choose real wood if the budget allows. As to what you have heard; Mdf in a dry interior environment will not warp like wood. It should not be installed in kitchens, bathrooms or outdoors. A good carpenter can use wood or mdf to provide pleasant finished details. If you can afford it, choose wood.


What type of insulation should I use in a knee wall?

As with any answer, you should check your local codes. However, Going with R-30 on top and R-13 on the sides is standard and will give you very good value. If you can, you should plan on putting R-30 into the 'diagonals' too, that is, where the rafters are above the knee-walls but below the ceilings. If you don't have enough room now, you can screw some 2x4s onto the bottom of the rafters to gain more room: it'll be worth it in the end.

Two things to remember: you don't have to or want to insulate away from living space. So, from your diagram, you would insulate vertically up the knee walls, but don't insulate in the area you close off, as you won't gain any value from it. Two, make sure when you insulate the sloped area where the rafters are, make sure you put baffles underneath the plywood before you install the insulation, to leave space for air to flow from the soffit vents up to the ridge vent.


All manufacturers that I know of have a service line.

Your best bet is to contact the original manufactures service line and see what they have to say about it. You may have to purchase a new harness along with your element.


Is it OK to strip a wire in the middle for attaching a fixture?

I believe at one time this was an accepted practice. I found it in my house which was built in 1960. I know I have been in the elctrical field for 25 years and have never seen anyone do it, so I would say its not being used anymore. I don't think it is a hazard, but if you come across it while performing upgrades I would replace it with a standard wire nut connection like you did.


Plywood, MDF or Chipboard for painted bookshelves?

How much the shelves will sag depends not only on the materials you use, but also whether or not the shelves are fixed, whether there's a hardwood strip along the length, and how they are attached.  The magic number to watch out for is 1/32" (about 0.8 mm) of sag per foot.

MDF is incredibly heavy - your bookshelves will weigh a ton if you construct them entirely from it.  Further, they will sag under their own weight if the span is wide enough, so be cautious if you intend to make the shelves wide without additional support.  You might consider attaching hardwood edge strips or building a small torsion box frame beneath each shelf if you intend to have wide spans.  This, of course, is bulky and unsightly.

That said, MDF does rout and paint incredibly well if that's more important to you and your design doesn't call for wide, unsupported expanses.  However, tight-grained, close-pored hardwoods also paint well.  If you can find Poplar or Maple veneered plywood (all of my local home centers carry both), that should work pretty well.  You can also fill the pores of open-pored woods to make them accept paint better.

As for the edges of plywood, a common technique is to attach a hardwood strip because it allows for routing without all the ply layers showing through, and it adds quite a bit of load bearing capacity.  Also, you shouldn't have problems with plywood warping if it's kept in a relatively dry area, especially in a climate-controlled area like inside your house.  And if you go all out and get high-quality plywood from a lumber yard rather than a home center, it's often even more stable due to a greater number of plies and less voids/gaps.

I wouldn't even go near chipboard.  I'll admit a little bias because all of the manufactured furniture I've ever owned made from chipboard either sagged, chipped, or buckled under stress (in a matter of 2-3 years, in most cases).

Check out http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm if you get a chance.  You can play with various materials, edging strips, whether or not the shelf is fixed or floating, and so on.  It also has great tips to watch out for.


Is there any difference in the protection from a GFCI outlet vs. a secondary outlet connected to it?

"Inspector" is not too swift - I'd be tempted to run this up to the organization that certifies them as a qualified inspector, but I do like to make trouble sometimes.

They don't care at all about a short line to neutral - that's the circuit breaker's job. What they do is compare the current going on the line and the current coming on the neutral, and if they are not matched within 5 mA (number varies with part of world, but for the US) they trip - that happens when there's a fault (often far less than a full on short) to ground.

They work exactly as fast for remote or local connections, as they measure the current, and current changes instantaneously throughout a circuit with changes in load.

Some people even prefer GFCI breakers, which are all the way back at the panel. They work just as well.


Need help with correct wiring when replacing a hardwired smoke detector

You should find an installers manual for the main panel and read it thoroughly. But I will give you my thoughts below.

First off, your black wire is connected to the positive terminal not the negative terminal according to your picture and wiring diagram.

Secondly, I am suspicious that this detector ever worked since there is no second wire connected to the power supply terminals. According to the label it takes 12 volts DC to power it and you can't do that with just one wire.

Without seeing any installers manual, I would say the black and white are 12 volts DC power and the red and blue are the common and signal wires.

So test for voltage between the black and white wires. If you get 12 volts move the white wire to the other power supply terminal. Usually the auxiliary contacts would be for another system to be notified that the detector is in alarm. The red and blue should probably go to the ground and signal terminals and the auxiliary terminals are just that, auxiliary. Then see if the detector works.

Notice on the backs of either detector they don't show any wires connected to the auxiliary contacts.


Understanding my main box for Knob and Tube wiring

Wow, nice fuse panel.  It's well preserved and probably still fully effective.
You can only hope the modern panel you replace it with holds up so well!

Although we use it all the time, the term "hot" can be a little ambiguous.

Keep in mind that voltage is only meaningful between two things.  Sometimes when referring to voltage to ground / earth, we'll just assume that's the other thing.  So if we say "the red wire is at 120V," or "the black wire is at 120V," we really mean there's 120V between those wires and ground.

(There are ungrounded systems where there is voltage present between parts of the system, but no voltage to any of the conductors and ground, but those are seen in big industrial systems, not your home.)

I suspect you're testing with a non-contact voltage tester.  Remember that these testers generally measure voltage to ground.

In the US, most single family homes are supplied by a Edison three wire service.  In this system, there are two lines (red and black in your fuse panel) and a neutral originating on the same transformer winding.  The lines originate at the end of the winding, the neutral, which is grounded, originates at the middle.  There's 240V from line to line, and 120V from either line to neutral.

So with a non-contact voltage detector, you'll only detect voltage on line1 and line2, not on the neutral;  it's grounded.  But if you put one lead of a voltage meter on white, and the other on red or black, you'd read 120V.


How do you ensure an even second and third coat over matte white paint?

There's paint on sale in the UK that dries white but goes on pink. The big brand version is called Dulux magic. I haven't tried it because even painting white on white, the wet has a different sheen to the dry. Combined with being methodical this is enough. There are also cheaper brands.


User serviceable parts inside this CFL floor lamp?

There are several different sizes of lamps that fit that pin out. The ballast is probably in the base and will have a list of compatible lamps if that is lost, many times when a lamp goes bad it can take out the ballast, so the ballast probably is bad, the voltages you mention are two low to strike the lamp.


I'd budget two or three days if you're by yourself. The stairs will likely be the most time consuming. The slab is going to be obnoxious primarily because it's over that hole. It doesn't look like you can fit staging in there, and a ladder is problematic because falling debris can knock it over. I assume the dangers of demoing the slab while standing on it are self-evident. It's hard to say without a good look, but I suspect working backwards and into the door may be the best bet.

The Tools

Three pound hammer - You're going to want a short-handle sledge for chisel work at some point, and three pounds is a good compromise. Nailing hammers (12-26 oz) are a bit too light and five pound hammers are a real workout if you're not used to them.
Masonry chisels, two - You'll want flat and pointed, the exact sizes and shapes depending on budget and what's in the store.
Goggles, not optional - No way a chip doesn't hit you in the face at some point.
Long-handled sledge, optional but pretty damn handy
Angle grinder, a big help - Really the cheapest tool to reliably cut both masonry and steel; something in the 4" size with both metal and masonry cutoff wheels. The fibrous disks wear out quickly, but they're probably a bit more forgiving than the diamond wheels if you run into steel accidently. Otherwise you'll want at least a hacksaw or reciprocating saw to deal with the rebar.

In addition to the short list you'll probably want to rent an electric demolition hammer for one day. Apart from the obvious labor savings it's good insurance for the stairs; you won't need to buy more tools if they're exceptionally difficult to break down.

The Plan

Bar the upper door. You really should put a railing on the outside across the opening, but I get that it's brick and you don't live with an OSHA inspector. You should still consider at the least a sawhorse inside blocking the door so nobody marches out forgetting that the deck is gone.
Score the slab along the house. Make a shallow cut parallel to the wall to encourage the slab to break rather than drag bricks out of the wall.
Carefully remove the slab. It looks like your best bet is to work carefully from the stairs, ground, and doorway to chip away at the concrete. Just don't work underneath or on top of it!
Once the slab is reduced enough that you won't kill yourself, cut off any large remaining pieces of steel. At this point the stairs and columns should be freestanding.
The stairs look to be free of the house so removing them is a simple matter of breaking them into small enough pieces to lift. Electric hammer, cuts and a long-handled sledge, judicious application of a pointed chisel are all valid approaches.
Score and smash is your best bet with the partition wall, though it looks like a pointed chisel in any of those cracks would brink half of it down. If you want to save a portion it's best to work your way down carefully removing small pieces.
The brickwork can be dismantled with a masonry chisel applied to the mortar. Running a cutoff wheel along the bed joints can help if the going is too difficult.


That "large brown" cable likely has 2 conductors inside that coming out of the brown jacket somewhere out of sight and then are connecting to that block.


How should an unused knob and tube run be terminated?

I'd have to go double check my NEC before saying for certain, but my recollection is that unless specifically tagged for future use old wiring no longer in service is supposed to be entirely removed. Now, there is some question of the practicality of that when the wiring is not in conduit, etc. but I would suggest getting as much removed as practical before insulating. Getting rid of all of it would be best practice. You also want to be very sure that if any of it is still hooked up anywhere it does not get buried in insulation.


What are the downsides to a DIY heat exchanger on my shower drain?

Basically none beyond the hassles involved in making it and installing it. While there's a bit of pressure drop from longer piping, it's minimal and can be eliminated, if it would be an issue, by choice of tubing size.
There are commercially-produced implementations of this concept, which (as I recall) are optimized for vertical pipe (the supply tubing is coiled around the drainpipe), and save enough energy cost on heating (at least for dorms/gyms/etc.) to make installing a drain pump to elevate the drain water on bottom floors where there's no "natural" vertical fall available pay off. Insulate the completed assembly for best results.


Which type of mortar or cement to set electrical box?

they make specific boxes for masonry.  these are sealed a bit better than a typically 4 inch square.  you can get these in single gang, up to almost anything multi gang or gangable (single gang that join to other single gang to make what you need)  You must use rated wire or conduit with compression connectors for this application as well.


You are correct in your assumption.

Poor crimped connection lead to a high resistance join and heating over time causing the wire to melt.

Re Terminate with a new connector.

As an extra precaution check the resistance across the thermal cut out switch the resistance should be close to zero.


Can I cover these pipes in my basement floor with concrete?

If you are going to concrete this, you need to extend the sewer cleanout or you'll be taking a hammer to the concrete when you need that (if you even remember where it is, then), and you'll need to sleeve the copper waterline with something to protect it from the concrete, or you'll be having a massive leak and needing to hammer the concrete to fix that. Both of those penetrations will want an appropriate sealant / caulk for the radon containment job, as well.

At 18x18 inches you could possibly also adapt a standard radon-sealing sump cover to cover the hole and attach a radon vent pipe to, though this looks like the sort of overly finished basement where that might be difficult as you're built right up to the hole.


Mounting a bike repair stand to a workbench

It’s hard to tell from the pictures how thick the bench is. If it is 7/8” thick or 1-1/2” thick. It may be just the perspective of the picture but those screws look smaller than you described and the drill bit looks bigger than 1/8”. It seems you did everything right although the glue was probably unnecessary. The screws really shouldn’t have stripped out like that although the screws may have been a little short. I would use as long a screw as will almost go through to the other side. I would also use as thick a screw as will fit through the holes in the metal plate. Alternatively even better, I would drill all the way through the wood with a bit the same size as the holes in the metal and use bolts and nuts. Again as large as will fit through the holes in the metal plate. On the under side use washers and lock washers.


Reduced flow from bathroom faucet but not anywhere else

It sounds so similar, practically identical, to the issue that I was having, that I would not be surprised to find out we live in the same building.

Jumping right to solution: I bet that your weak flow problem is caused by debris (probably mineral deposits) in the pipes feeding the mixing valve.

To check the hypothesis without doing any work, attach a water pressure gauge to your problematic faucet. Take a reading with water on, then compare that to a good faucet. If my hunch is correct, those readings will be about the same.

How to fix will depend on particular type of your mixing valve. Shut off the mains, then disassemble the mixing valve. Take photos as you go, this will simplify the job of putting it back together. In my case, there were mineral deposits (rocks) in the pipes, just prior to tiny plastic one-way siphons. Removing that stuff resulted in a dramatic improvement of the flow. I can post my own pictures, but I doubt they will be helpful to you. That is, unless you really do live in the same building.


Using leftover Romex in conduit (surface mount application in an attached garage)

You need big conduit

A flat cable like Romex is treated the same as a circular wire of the large dimension.

With 1 cable in round conduit, the conduit inside diameter must be at least 138% of the widest cable width.
With two same cables in round conduit, the conduit ID must be 259% of the widest cable width.
with three same cables in round conduit, the conduit ID must br 274% of the widest cable width.

Note that at minimum sizes, it will be a bugbear to pull.  You may be wise to upsize further for ease of pulling.

-

If you are using non-round conduit, then you need to look up the cross sectional area of the conduit and compute the cross section of the (rounded out) cable.  Compute

  cross section of cable  = (cable widest width ^ 2) * 3.14159 / 4

Cable cross section can't exceed 53% of cable cross section for 1 wire in conduit; 30% for 2 cables in conduit, and 40% for 3 or more.


Wood Species to replace small bed frame piece

For strength, hardwood is far preferable to softwood. Most big box stores have pieces of oak, often in the stair parts section. If nothing else is available, poplar would be preferable to softwood such as pine, fir or spruce.

You are right that you need to predrill to avoid splits.


Can I remove / rework studs to access crawl space/storage underneath stairs?

The normal approach is to support the floor above with a temporary wall, cut out the offending studs, and add a load-bearing header spanning the new opening and resting on trimmer studs.

If you're careful you can slide the new header into the wall cavity above the new opening without totally removing drywall to the top of the header. Using a reciprocating saw, cut the studs off where the top of the new header will be by plunging through the drywall. This leaves you with a few short slits to repair, rather than having to patch in sheets of drywall.


How do I prepare this porous interior wall for paint?

Skimming walls is hard to do well, and generally best left to a pro.

An alternative is to put up thin drywall. It is available in sheets as thin as 1/4 inch.  While it needs to be taped and the joints compounded, it is much easier for the average craftperson to do a good job with this method than with skim coating.


Are CFL bulbs safe for enclosed fixtures?

We have had CFL's in a number of enclosed fixtures for years now.  They generate comparable light for much less heat.  The main thing you need to worry about with CFLs is, you can't use them on a dimmer unless that dimmer is designed for them.  Other than that - less heat means even less risk of fire in my book.


Why does wand shower head drain at unusual times?

If I had to guess, it's draining some of the water that was still caught up in the shower head after you turned it off (and held there by atmospheric pressure). After enough of the remaining water has evaporated/etc to break the seal, the rest of the water comes out. We have a similar problem with our shower head (a flat "rain" shower head on an articulated arm). In our case the problem is depends on the position of the head and arm...oddly enough it happens when the head is not horizontal. All the other details are the same as yours (it never happened with the old head, no lower faucet, etc).

In our case it's not draining 1-2 cups since it sure sounds like it at 3AM in the morning and scared my wife on many occasions :-). You could verify the amount of drainage by putting a pan or something in the shower...if yours is indeed draining 1-2 cups it may not be the same issue unless it's somehow siphoning water out of the hose.


I would take yellow pine route a bullnose have home depot scan the flooring being used and stain it it works nice. If u don't have that capability have a guy do it for u it will take about hour to mill it then u stain and clear it.


What is a shear wall and what is it for?

The brace is providing lateral support. If you build a wall with the top and bottom plate plus some studs, it's easy to shift the wall out of square and turn it into a parallelogram. Under load, a house would take an 8' shift to one side and flatten to the ground. With the brace, the wall remains square and holds perpendicular walls plumb.

In typical construction and low risk areas, the exterior wood sheathing and interior drywall provides this lateral support and avoids the need for any lateral bracing. However, in older homes or in higher risk areas, particularly where there are hurricanes or earthquakes, extra support may be added. In my own home, this was done with a metal T that was installed into a grove that was cut in the studs, but older homes will more likely notch the studs and install a piece of lumber.

Before removing this, I'd want to consult with a structural engineer. They may require that you relocate the brace to one or both sides of the doorway, and that will require opening up your walls even more. Removing this structure will likely show little signs of danger until there is extreme weather or a seismic event, so if you were to remove it without proper adjustments to the rest of your structure, don't assume that everything will be ok.

Note that with a truss resting directly on top of this wall, you should assume there is some load passing through, especially if there's any structure above that truss in your house. The fact that it's been cut for ducting may mean that the wall is the only thing keeping that truss from collapsing. When you create a doorway, it's best to install some temporary bracing and make the header a load bearing structure that appropriate for the span.


In some places it is illegal to run hidden power cables horizontally across walls unless they are within a specific short distance from floor or ceiling.

For example, in the UK I believe all power cables to/from a mid-wall switch must run vertically to or until near the floor/ceiling.

So, the answer may depend where you live.

Reference: IET cables in walls


Where is the best place to put a light on basement stairs?

A couple of can lights like bib suggests is the most common way.

An alternative idea would be to install LED strip lights, like the ones designed to replace fluorescent tube lights. If you put in two of the 4 foot variety, you could evenly light the entire staircase.


NEC Article 220 load-calculation for entire house

The calculated load valve is for new services, for existing services you can measure the load on the service.
Do you want to put in a new service? Did you just win the lottery?
Putting in a new service in many states requires you to update everything to code and in the last 32 years there are a huge number of changes that will be required.  Would I even consider a upgrade from 200 to 225? Not a chance, I would not really think about it until 250, and at 300 sure it makes sense.
I have measured many homes and have never found one at 80% in fact most residential homes even in all electric are 80 amps or less on average.
Now to help you feel better about your home, have you changed from all incandescent lights to CFL or LED? CFL cuts the lighting load in 1/2, while LED gives close to an 85% reduction. Has the furnace been upgraded to a newer heat pump? Have the refrigerator, dishwasher, and oven been updated to energy star devices?
All these upgrades relieve the actual demand and the code panels are looking to change the load calculations for this reason.
What would an electrician do to evaluate the demand?
They would pull the dead face off your main service panel and clip a clamp meter on one leg then the other, then tell you to turn on the oven and heater or air conditioner and all the lights and repeat the test heavily loaded. As I just described it, I would bet that your home probably will not be drawing over 125 amps.
If you want to get really crazy add the washing machine and dryer, and turn the hot water on.  Unless you have an electric on demand water heater, you will probably still be below 180 with just about everything on at the same time.
You can do this same test yourself with a amp clamp meter costing under 100$
If you see an imbalance from 1 leg to the other this may need to be balanced, but don’t balance with crazy loads; balancing should be done with normal loads that you have running.
Just FYI car chargers are calculated at 125%.
The feeder to the house only has to be 83% not 125 because of the diversity of the load, even turning so much equipment on I would be surprised to see 80% and there are additional safety factors built in.
For example a 14AWG wire is limited to 15 amps by Code, but in a equipment panel from memory it is over 75 amps. There is a huge safety factor.


Will any thickness of Kingspan K118 do for an existing wall in my house?

You do need to adjust between the different units.  To work out the thickness of insulation needed for 0.30 W/m²·K you can do 0.018W/m·K / 0.30W/m²·K = 0.06m.  So you will need 60mm sheet of insulation to get that target with the foam (note that this is the thickness of the foam, not the combined foam+plasterboard).
Dimensional analysis is useful for a sanity check, it doesn't make sure we have the right formula but it does help make sure we aren't wrong.  W/m·K / (W/m²·K) = m which is good since we want to work out the thickness of the insulation and m is a measure of thickness.
In practice it is much more complicated because your existing walls provide some amount of insulation, how much depends on your existing wall construction, if you cavities are already insulated then this will be quite significant.  So you will need less than 60mm of foam to get 0.30 W/m²·K thermal conductivity for your wall.  Working this out is beyond the scope of this answer.  However in the product brochure pdf on the Kooltherm K118 Insulated plasterboard webpage you linked to there are tables with estimated combined U values including a "Masonry Cavity Walls" section.  So this should hopefully give you the information you need.


Fluidmaster toilet fill valve not shutting off water

You need to turn off the water supply at the stop valve, gently prise open the Fluidmaster fill valve by gripping the valve "riser" (to keep it from turning) and rotate the upper valve housing CCW 1/4 turn, to open and tip it away from the riser, exposing the washer/diaphragm. Barely crack the supply valve open a bit to allow water to flow up the riser to flush debris out, using the flowing water to bathe the washer/diaphragm and flush away debris caused by your maintenance activities.

Reassemble and live in peace.


What is the best way to connect a farm fence to a vinyl fence?

The best way is to put two posts directly adjacent to each other - the vinyl one to the front and the wooden one just behind it, or just inside it depending how you want the front corner to look - the wooden one should also be braced to the next wooden one as it's an end-post for a tensioned fence. Putting the wood one inside will probably look better from the road, but mock it up and see what the arbiter of appearance in your household thinks.

Might also matter what critters you are trying to keep in, or out.


Can I seal my bath overflow waste with silicon, from the inside?

It will not work.

You will need to find the exact cause of the leak (e.g. disturbed slip-joint fitting, cracked tube, fitting pull-out, bad gasket, etc.) and fix it proper. If it is "freestanding" then the overflow should be accessible unless it is concealed in a skirt. If it's concealed... time to disconnect the supply and drain and tip that b^*ch up...


Securing Cable when installing old work box

You're off the hook:

  NEC 334.30(B)(B) Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable
  shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable:
  (1) Is fished between access points through concealed
  spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable.


Metal junction boxes are typically serviced by metallic conduit that is grounded in the panel. This is particularly common in older homes that have been updated to whatever the current code was when it was rewired. Homes 100 years ago didn't require grounded outlets so when they were brought up to date it was the best way to provide proper grounding. Although a receptacle will usually ground through the attachment ears to the metal box you should still attach a ground wire to the green screw on each recptacle and run it to a grounding screw on the box.
One suggestion for the future, instead of a receptacle tester, which can be squirrely at times, you should invest in a multimeter that will give you more precise information.


Connecting C-wire in the furnace (C terminal already taken up)

that furnace is a typical carrier/bryant control with terminals
C  Common
Y   Call for Cool  (call for A/C)
GC   Fan Cooling (high speed)
GH   Fan Heating (low speed)
R   24v power
W   Call for Heat  (call for furnace)
The jumper between R and GH is for thermostats that do not have a High and Low blower speed selection.  (which is most of them, yours probably)  When it is there the control board works "normally" in that if you call for heat the low speed blower turns on if you call for cool the blower goes into high speed.  It should only be cut if no A/C is present at all, and the thermostat is heat only and has a low and high speed fan for those weirdos who want to turn the fan on high when running the furnace.
You can connect the ecobee thermostat G wire to either GC or GH depending on whether or not you want to be able to turn the fan only on, and what speed you would want to run it at if you did.  (for example you want to run it in circulation mode in the fall or spring)  Probably you would want to run the fan at low in that situation so I would use GH for the G terminal.
The other terminals are normal,  R to R, C to C, W to W, and so on.
Now here is the meat/heart of the problem.  THERMOSTAT WIRE COLORS ARE BLINKIN MEANINGLESS!!!!!!!!   There are TRADITONAL colors, they are:
G  Green
R  Red
C  Black
Y  Yellow
W  White
But NEVER NEVER NEVER  N_E_V_E_R!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Trust them E_V_E_R.    ALWAYS validate BOTH ENDS OF THE CABLE!!!!
You have that cable with the red going to C and the white going to Y.  What is it for?  I dunno.  Maybe someone put a motor operated pinwheel on top of the house that turns on when the AC is turned on.  You certainly better trace it out and find out what it is I think.  It MIGHT be going to an AC unit that is completely separate from the furnace such as if someone put an A/C on the furnace that was made by Johnny Kewel not Carrier.   If your furnace has a Carrier A/C on it then the A/C is certainly controlled by the furnace microprocessor not by that oddball second wire and the connections would be to a header buried in the furnace not some hokey extra wire.
Anyway I'm assuming the wire on the right is going to the ecobee.  In that case the unconnected C wire needs to go to.....drumroll please.....  C
I see several unconnected colors you have a black an orange a blue and maybe a thin little pink in there.  The installer probably had whatever the heck extra coil of thermostat wire in his truck.  If you followed the "color codes" then use the black wire for C.  But DO NOT BLINDLY TRUST THE COLOR CODES.   Make sure that the alphabet matches at both ends the furnace and the stat.  If you want to be a decent person you would follow the traditional color code in your own wiring so that the next guy who comes along isn't screwed over.  And that next guy might be you if that ecobee breaks down.


How to hang a canvas wall art with wooden frame?

In the picture hanging kit are eyelets with threads.  Screw one eyelet into each of the vertical frame members a few inches below the top.  String the wire from the kit between the two eyelets.  Then nail one of the hooks from the kit into your wall and hang the picture by placing the wire on the hook.


Move neutrals to subpanel or leave them on main?

I think that is covered in NEC 300.3(B), All Conductors of the same circuit...shall be contained in  the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray...
The small portion of raceway where the neutral or hot nipples between panels would break the rule.


Why would my kitchen ceiling fixture not have any current?

I didn't have enough time yesterday to type up a proper answer, but I wanted you to have at least some information. For completeness, first my initial response.

Either the breaker has failed or there's a bad connection somewhere along the line. Check for voltage at the breaker and in each box along the line, the last box with voltage has a bad connection, probably one those push in connectors.

Based on your response, it sounds like the problem could be in one of the porch light connections where the power should continue on to the kitchen lighting. Which leads into your point to point question.

The wiring does loop back to the breaker, but not in the way you think, unless you have war time British ring wiring. Other than ring wiring, all conventional wiring is either linear or tree organized with pairs of wires (plus ground hopefully) making each run between boxes. Current runs up one wire, usually black in the US and brown elsewhere, and back along the neutral, usually white in US and blue elsewhere. In other words, the out and back is achieved in the same cable with a wire pair, not by separate cables. Assuming conventional non-metallic (romex) cabling.

Actually, alternating current doesn't go anywhere, it vibrates back and forth, but the direct current model serves conceptually to ensure power and neutral connections are properly maintained. Since circuit layouts can be almost anything, without a wiring diagram, only methodical checking of various wires in each box will reveal the actual layout. It's usually a safe assumption that the layout is roughly efficient in wire use, you're unlikely to see runs double back on itself without good reason.

Since the porch lights work on the same breaker and are fine, yes the breaker itself can be eliminated as a problem. It is possible the power connection that has failed is located in the breaker panel though, as two separate lines out of the same breaker could be possible, though somewhat unusual.

With that background, you should try to locate where the power runs from the porch lights to the kitchen lights. It may be from the switch or the light, or it may be a branch farther back towards the breaker. There may also be another box for something else between the porch and kitchen lights. You will need to guess at the probable layout to have any hope of locating the bad connection without testing the entire circuit. Wires typically run from closest box to closest box. Don't forget switches in two different rooms can be only inches apart for wiring, the boxes only happen to open into different rooms.

Also verify the power comes from elsewhere to the switch and not to the light. If there are only two wires, one cable at the switch, the power is coming through the light first, where you will find at least two cables and four wires. Unfortunately, there are also layouts involving three wire (plus ground) cables where where the power comes from is ambiguous.

A lot of talk for all you really are trying to do is find the other end of the wire which should have voltage but doesn't. Unfortunately, finding it is either a lucky guess or being thorough and methodical. I wish I could help more, but I can't be there to help you, but I am here fairly regularly if not frequently if you have any more questions. Good luck.


Is it possible to trace a wire to a breaker if you don't have access to the inner copper

Yes, a professional tracer tool that has either an inductive feature or an inductive clamp will work. The inductive feature is used by placing the tool in close proximity to the wire, while the inductive clamp is typically an accessory that you place around the wire you're tracing to insert the signal. It doesn't matter if the circuit is energized or not. Unfortunately these tools are expensive, so you might want to find someone you can borrow from or a tool center you can rent it from. People that would have access to these tools would be ones that work with or around underground utilities, so for example I know an excavator that has one of these. Other uses for these tools are finding underground irrigation and breaks in invisible dog fence wires if that helps your search.

Ideal makes one for about $1200:
https://www.idealind.com/ideal-electrical/us/en/products/test-measurement/circuit-tracers/suretrace-circuit-tracer-61-959.aspx

Schonstedt also makes a few different ones that would work:
https://www.schonstedt.com/

And here is an instruction manual on how to use the Schonstedt features:
http://gfretwell.com/electrical/howtofindcablemanual_06.pdf


Shower pump humming when taps opened, but no flow

Turns out the whole air/negative head/priming thing was a complete red herring. I found the manufacturer's FAQ and in it they state that if the pump is humming then it is likely physically not turning.

So I disassembled the pump and on one side, found that a small retaining spring pin had come loose and had jammed into the impeller, breaking a few of the teeth. Once the pin was put back in its proper place and the pump reassembled, it works again.


How to fix the Sputtering faucets in bathroom with air locked in pipes

Movement in the hot water supply line below the sink may be touching the shutoff valve thus creating a resonant effect. Try partially closing the hot water shutoff valve to determine if it's modified angle stops the sputtering.
If this stops the sputtering, dampen movement in the hot water supply line or block anything that could touch the shutoff valve when it's completely open.


Is there a way to 'remove' blackened water-stain from hardwood floor?

Removing Dark Stains With Sandpaper

  Remove the finish over the stain gently with sandpaper, moving with the grain of the wood. Use #100-grit sandpaper, and then feather the
  edges with #150-grit sandpaper.
  Sand the stain with #150-grit sandpaper, now that you have removed the finish. Feather the edges around the stained area with #0000 steel
  wool.
  Use tack cloth (lint-free cloth) to remove sanding dust.
  Put on several light coats of varnish to match the original finish.
  Feather the edges of the new varnish with #0000 steel wool to remove the slight bump between the old and new varnish.
  Wax the wood with a quality polish.

  Remove Dark Stains With Bleach

  Bleach the wood with chlorine bleach if the stain turns out to be too deep to remove without excessive sanding.
  Don your rubber gloves and apply the bleach with a brush.
  Let it sit for a few hours. The stain should fade to nearly the wood’s original color, but it’s a slow process.
  Use a clean sponge and water to remove the bleach completely and prevent further fading of the wood color.
  Apply vinegar to neutralize the wood. This will prevent the wood from lightening the stain or varnish when you brush it on.
  Let the wood dry thoroughly.
  Apply wood stain, if needed, and let it dry again.
  Brush on several light coats of varnish to match the original finish.
  Feather the edges of the new varnish with #0000 steel wool to remove the slight bump between the old and new varnish. Remove dust
  with a tack cloth.
  Wax the wood with a quality polish.

Taken from: http://www.wikihow.com/Get-Water-Stains-Off-Wood


Why would brand new multimeter not work?

Often electronic device have a "data hold" featured to freeze the display, make sure that feature is turned off.


Air in cold water line from well. How do we replace the check valve?

You may want to call in a professional.  To get to the check valve, also called a foot valve, you need to pull the pump up by its connecting pipe, which takes a strong back and/or special equipment, and is VERY easy to mess up and drop the pump down into the well which is a big ($$$) problem!

But if you really want to try it, you'll need to rig up something so that you can hold the pipe as you reset your hands to make the next pull.  You will definitely need an assistant.  Just disconnect the electric wires, pull the pitless adapter release, and pull up on the pipe.  It will be HEAVY!  Be VERY careful not to let go once it releases from the pitless or down it will go.  Note that the well may be 100' deep but chances are the pump itself will be considerably less deep than that.

After you get some pipe above the top of the casing, most pros I've seen use a special tool that clamps the pipe to keep it from dropping down but some use a pipe wrench.  This is where it gets tricky as you need to unscrew sections of the pipe as you go to avoid trying to hoist 50' or more of pipe above your head.  Eventually it will bend and possibly break.

Once you get to where the pump is, you should be able to pull it out, remove the foot valve, and reverse the process to re-install the pump.

DISCLAIMER: This answer assumes that your well is installed using steel or rigid plastic pipe which is probably the most common in most areas until recently.  Note, however, that it may be installed differently as noted in the comment below.


Can I connect an Asian 240v water heater to a US 240v circuit?

Asian and US power work in a very different way.   Both transformers are 240V.  However Asia applies safety earthing  on one end of the transformer's 240V winding.  America pegs it in the middle.  Philippines is a weird compromise because they have both systems and are in the middle of trying to harmonize on one.

The concept is that American power is safer since voltage is only 120V from earth.

Neutral is not earth/ground.  Neutral is a normal current-flowing conductor like the hot(s), it is simply the one that uses the same transformer lug as earth.  That makes it the "less dangerous" conductor.  It is not earth and should not be connected to earth anywhere except one bonding location specified by Code.

Some appliances are built with weaker insulation on the conductor planned for neutral.  Code doesn't allow them to do that, but they do it anyway. Not mentioning any subcontinents here.

Your water heater wants 240V across its two supply terminals.  in Asia, one of them will be neutral, in the US neither will be.   This use needs to be permitted in its labeling or instructions as approved by UL, CSA or other competent listing agency.  CE is not a listing agency.

In a US installation of a five-continent 240V device, you will have no use for US neutral.  You will need two hots, and this must come off a 2-pole 240V breaker.


Most of those fans have brackets attached to the sides of the housing that extend and are nailed into the studs. Since it's the motor making the noise, try unplugging it from the housing and removing those silver screws. You should be able to remove the motor and fan impeller. Now try to clean it up and dab a few drops of oil on the motor bearings.Re install it and see if it's better.
Once the motor's removed, you'll probably see the mounting bracket sleeves or nails going into to studs that hold the housing in. You could then try to work those lose. Since this is an apartment, check with the landlord before doing any work. He might even have a replacement motor that you can just screw back in.


Lead painted floor below current subfloor: can we leave the subfloor when replacing main floor?

I bet that floor squeaks really bad, I would be surprised if it doesn’t when you pull the stone and mortar. The reason the floor is breaking up is from movement.
Yes you can leave the lead paint it will be covered so there is no risk, the stone and mortar flooring , I have never tested that for asbestos because that would be uncommon.
I would remove the floor and sub floor at a minimum possibly even the next layer and redeck using t&g plywood this will be needed if you want to tile to prevent the new floor from doing the same as the current floor.  If putting down vinyl I would still re deck but I hate squeaky floors and am a really big guy.


Does a small concrete slab need control joints?

No. My rule of thumb (can't recall where my thumb got it from) is 12 feet/4meters before you really need a control joint.
Reinforcement is always a good idea.
This document has a great deal of vague handwaving, and on page 11 gets to a specific recommendation from the ACI of "24-36 times slab thickness" which in your case is 7-10.5 feet. that suggests that 0 or 1 control joint might be the right number (with the 1 making two 4 foot squares per another recommendation found in the same section of the document that the slab segments defined by joints be square or near square.)


What should I do about the insect larvae found on my ceiling?

That looks like the larvae stage of a pantry moth to me. Is it in or near your kitchen or some food storage? They can infest food like grain that is sitting in cabinets and you end up with many of them flying around your kitchen.

I think there are homemade traps you can make to keep their populations down in your kitchen. The real key is to identify what they're eating and address it - clean it up or get rid of it and try to make sure other foods nearby are well sealed so the moths can't move and expand.

Worlwide I think it is somewhat common to have these critters in bulk grain storage like a container of rice. You can try to remove them and rinse the food if you want to still use it and that'll probably be okay, but you should watch out for too many of them or other problems with the food like mold or excessive bug waste.


Can you use Danish Oil after using linseed oil?

Yes, by all means. You might want to test a spot (not for "will it work" - it will - but for any possible color issues.)

As for what you have read, consider it an opinion, nothing more - if you like what you have, boiled linseed is just fine. Apart from some potential risk to tree nut allergy sufferers, walnut oil also works nicely and is a drying oil. Pretty much all the oils can be recoated and/or coated over one another with little issue if the previous coat is dry/cured.


Oven spare parts - does serial code matter

Yes, it often matters.  Manufacturers make design and parts changes through the life of a product and the heating element may come in multiple versions depending on which revision of the product you have.  The serial number or code is what gets you the right part for your unit.
I'll add that they generally don't list the serials like this unless it does matter.


If you've removed the stained project material, the vapor will clear out as soon as you allow it to through adequate ventilation. Some slight lingering odor may remain, but it shouldn't be enough to cause health concerns.


Blame whoever buried that cable in the slab for your predicament

Since some nitwit thought burying a /2 SE cable in a slab was the best thing since sliced bread, your project is now in a predicament due to the lack of separate neutral and ground wires in the cable.  This missing wire problem forbids you from fitting a subpanel here (as you'd need a separate ground for that), and it also forbids you from running further cables from here due to issues with the NEC 250.148 requirements for terminating EGCs conflicting with the Exception to NEC 250.140 that permits continued use of existing 3-wire range circuits.

This leaves you with only two ways out: the destructive way and the not-so-residential way.  The destructive way would be to dig the culprit cable out of the slab and replace it with something less awkward, such as a 1" ENT (smurf tube) that can then have individual THHN wires run down it.  This provides plenty of expansion space, and uses methods and materials that most residential electricians are familiar with, but it sounds like the level of physical demolition and remodeling (busting and re-doing floor tile and concrete slab, ripping out and replacing island parts, and opening up wall cavities to route the ENT out of the slab and back to the panel) this requires makes it a non-option in your case.  (It'd also take quite a bit of money as a result of all that time and work.)

It's transformer time!

However, there is a savior for your situation, riding in from the bowels of high-rises and the floors of factories.  While not normally done, nothing in the NEC prohibits the use of dry-type distribution transformers in residential work, and   they have certain properties that make their use advantageous and cost-effective in some circumstances.  In particular, since a distribution transformer's primary and secondary are coupled only by their mutual magnetic field, it provides electrical isolation.  As a result of this isolation property, the neutral and bonding systems effectively "start over" on the secondary side of a transformer, yielding something called a separately derived system in the NEC.

What this means for you in practical terms is that your 3-wire cable can feed a suitable distribution transformer, and then that transformer can feed the cooktop and oven in turn via a (small) breaker panel, thus providing a fully Code-compliant, 4-wire feed to the new appliances without the need for extensive demolition and remodeling work.  However, there are some caveats to this approach, so read on before you make your final decision here.

First off, transformers are not like most other pieces of hardware in a house in that they are dense compared to a typical appliance.  A transformer of the correct size and type for your application, namely a 10kVA, single phase, 480/240V primary, 240/120V secondary, enclosed, dry-type transformer as a 7.5kVA unit is just a scotch too small for a range circuit, will fit into a space 2' high, by 15" wide at most, by 12" deep, yet weighs over 150 pounds!  This, along with the fact that transformers are healthy space-warmers that need cooling air in order to have a long and productive life, means that you can't simply hang one on the back of an average kitchen cabinet.

Furthermore, we'll need to fit a small breaker panel into the island as well in order for this approach to work.  This provides a home for the new neutral-ground bond required by the transformer's presence, as well as protection for the wires on the secondary side of the transformer.  Fortunately, we don't need much here; a "spa panel" sized breaker box flush-mounted into the access hatchway to the transformer compartment will suffice.  Note that this access hatchway will need to be louvered or grilled in order to provide cooling airflow for the transformer, and will also need to be proud of the cabinet front to keep the countertop lip from infringing on the 110.26(A) clear working space for the spa box.  The transformer itself does not need to have a full clear working space provided for it, though, as NEC 450.13(B) permits an installation into a hollow space such as the interior of a cabinet.

Finally, the transformer itself is something that you or your electrician will need to source through a local electrical supply house (or used, via say Craigslist in your area); common pricing as of the time of this writing is somewhere in the $500-$600 range.  They are too heavy to be shipped as parcels (and require freight shipping service as a result), and also are simply not carried by big-box stores as they are rarely used in residential construction.  As a corollary to this, that last fact also means that you will also need to make sure your electrician of choice is familiar with transformer connections, as many residential electricians never encounter them in the course of their work.

Implementing this, industrial style

The way this works out is that you'll have to build a sturdy structure inside the cabinet bay where the old range outlet was to mount the transformer on as it has to be mounted upright in order for the cooling to work out correctly; this structure will need to be anchor-bolted directly to the slab instead of being attached to cabinet components, as well, due to the aforementioned weight issue.  From that existing box location, the installer can run a 3/4" LFMC whip with 2 6AWG stranded THHN hots and an 8AWG stranded bare copper ground in it to the transformer; this connects to the primary side of the transformer, which is strapped for 240VAC use with the hots connected to H1/H3 and H2/H4 at the the transformer and ground connected to the transformer's grounding lug.  Note that this may require replacing the existing junction box with a larger box: a 4-11/16" square box provides enough room here to connect to the existing cable.  Also, the split bolt that was used for the original neutral/ground connection needs to be removed and replaced with a compression connection as this equipment grounding conductor is doing double duty as a grounding electrode conductor as per the Exception to 250.121.

The transformer's secondary then is wired to the back of the spa-box-sized loadcenter using individual wires in a raceway; a 3/4" LFMC whip with 3 6AWG stranded THHN wires for the hots (aka X1 and X4) + neutral (X2/X3 taken together) and an 8 AWG stranded bare copper ground will do the job nicely here, although at the transformer the secondary ground wire needs to be connected to the primary ground wire with a compression tap connector in order for the grounding electrode path to meet the splicing requirements in NEC 250.64(C) point 1.  Into the breaker box goes a 2-pole, 50A breaker of the correct type for the new panel, with 6AWG pigtails from the breaker hots to an 8/2 NM cable to the cooktop and a 12/3 NM cable to the oven.  Note that while a separate ground bar is a good idea here, this panel must have its bonding screw or strap fitted as if it were a main panel; this establishes the new neutral-ground bonding point required by the transformer's presence.

Last but not least, the existing 50A range circuit breaker in the main panel will need a lockoff device fitted to it to meet the requirements of 450.14 for a lockable disconnecting means for the transformer.  For your main panel, this means that your installer will have to buy either a GE THP100 (for full sized breakers), or a GE TQPPL (for half-width/double-stuff/thin breakers) and fit it to the range breaker in the main panel.


The posts for your gate should be embedded in a good concrete base 2 to 3 feet deep. If the gate posts are going to be inside the edges of your walk, then I would install them first. It goes without saying that you should use PT posts and be sure the top of the concrete around the post bevels slightly away from the post so water will run away and not pond around the wood.


Leave extra wire in conduit for future expansion

There is no problem having unused conductors, properly capped, in your circuit. Since you'll total 8 wires you're within fill capacity for 3/4" conduit (10 or 11 depending on type).
You might ask yourself whether a 60A or 100A sub-panel isn't a better strategy, though. Four aluminum wires might be cost-equivalent to the copper you're planning and you'd have many more future circuit options.


Contactor relay connected to circulating pump not working

It sounds (and looks) like you've put the relay coil in SERIES with the pump, not in PARALLEL with the pump. Correct that and both should work as expected.

So, hot from whatever turns the pump on goes to pump and one end of relay coil. The other end of the relay coil goes to neutral, as does the other side of the pump.


why does my house have a 4 inch vent stack going out the front?

This sounds like the exhaust vent for a radon mitigation system. If so, there will be a fan constantly running in that system and the pipe will exhaust somewhere near the roof line. I would not recommend removing this since it was likely added after radon was detected in the area.


Should a generator transfer switch have continuity between all contacts in the "Gen" position?

If you are testing continuity at the generator inlet plug with the transfer switch in the GEN. position, you will be measuring continuity throughout the entire circuit.  If you look at this image, you should see why you're getting the readings you are.

The light blue box on the left, represents the main service panel. The light blue box on the right, represents the transfer switch.

Have the installation inspected by a certified licensed electrician before using the generator, to make sure the transfer switch is installed properly.  Remember, peoples lives could be on the line here (pun intended).  Back feeding caused by improper transfer installation, can kill linesmen trying to restore electrical service to your home during an outage.


How can I mount a screen window to an old porch?

I'd say mount it on the outer part, like @JACK suggested. Otherwise you'll probably end up with some odd-looking custom bracket/track setup to accomplish what you're after.
Instead of the stud screw + wingnut combo though, they make screen clips that match the color and width of that screen kit you linked, which might look a little cleaner. Below is a plastic one (I only searched Home Depot though, so you may find metal ones elsewhere, if that's what you're looking for).

Screen Clip

It might be worth investing in stainless steel screws (I didn't see what material the included screws were, but I kinda doubt they're SS), but at $0.30 per clip it doesn't hurt to try.


Assessing Wardrobe's Protection from Sunlight

No, your clothes won't fade from sunlight.  They may take heat damage, but only if the cloth is very high end, e.g., silks, etc. and if the area has no A/C.

As for the wardrobe itself, it will take some damage, but if you keep the drapes closed (and if those directly next to it are reasonably opaque), then it will take years for fading to occur.


What should I use to fill big gap around door frame?

With the deadbolt on the door, it appears to be an exterior door, so the space in the jamb should be insulated, both at the top and the sides. No need for a full roll of insulation to be bought, there are smaller pieces that can be bought such as fiberglas pipe wrap, or ask a person you know that may have a little on hand. It won't take much.

The drawing below will explain a bit on what to do about sizing material for the trim to cover the gap. Perhaps other trim that is throughout the house will give an idea how to treat the door.

Perhaps the trim in your place looks like this? The sides of the door in this pic looks like the trim will fill the footprint in your flooring.

Carpet trim is what I Googled to find the strip to cover the edge where the flooring is cut at the door.


The chromed plastic piece is called the "escutcheon" ("flange" is also fine, or "trim ring").

According to a supplier's website,[1], the "90268" escutcheon from Gerber is "tapped"* with a 5/8" inside diameter and 24 tpi (threads per inch). So you should see screw threads from the view in the picture.

However, I cannot see any threads inside the brown piece. Is it possible the threads are in the plastic and the metal piece was originally part of the faucet (welded/soldered/brazed there)?

From the photo, it looks like the center, brown-colored part is not part of the escutcheon, but part of the faucet that has come off and become stuck to the plastic, due to all the mineral deposits that have accumulated over time.

Next steps

If the trim ring (and therefore, the faucet) is supposed to have a 5/8-24 thread, then you can check if the threads are in good condition:

get a 10-cent nut from the hardware store with the same 5/8-24 threading — and attempt to spin it on the faucet.
bring the escutcheon to the hardware store and attempt to screw a 5/8 (male) bolt into the escutcheon -– you don’t need to buy the bolt.

If one or both fit, then it’s probably just a cleaning job with a descaling solution. If neither fits, it might not be the right part.

Original poster @user2676140 mentioned that soaking the part in warm, soapy water for 24 hours did not remove the scaling (minerals).   The minerals have built up over time (in the presence of soapy water) so this is to be expected.
@Eric Simpson noted in the comments that you can use white vinegar -- it's a mild acid, less likely to damage the chrome finish, and inexpensive; it just takes a little longer than a commercial descaling product.
If the vinegar doesn't work, you can use a stronger calcium - lime - rust removing solution such as "CLR" which is widely available.  [2] or [3]    You can dilute the CLR product with water.

  ⚠ Caution -- CLR is acidic. It can burn your skin and etch metal. Read label directions for safety.

Then what?

If you are able to separate the metal from the plastic escutcheon again, your next challenge will be to reattach the metal to the faucet.

I would suggest looking at the opposite handle.  If you can remove the chromed plastic escutcheon from the other faucet, and the brown metal stays with the faucet in the wall,  then take a look at how the brown metal spindle is attached to the faucet.

If you see a way to reattach the brown piece to the faucet (i.e., it is a press fit), then go ahead and do that.

If you determine that the brown metal piece in the photo has become permanently separated (broken off) from the faucet, and there is no way to reattach it, then you have a serious repair job.

Maybe a plumber or an advanced amateur can solder or braze it back together, while protecting the tile.
If not, and the metal part of the faucet is damaged, you probably need a new faucet.

* The supplier's website says "tapped", but the threads are probably molded into the plastic rather than tapped. That doesn't matter for the purposes of this Q&A.


Maybe I am not looking at the photo correctly but some times make up air is required, this can be for combustion or fresh air to keep the home liveable, more info would be needed in my opinion , if you close off air flow that supports combustion of a furnace it can cause furnace failures and high carbonmonoxide levels in the home.


Are soldered electrical connections code-compliant?

There are better ways

A wide variety of reliable splice techniques now exist. The reason for soldering "back in the day" was that manufacturing wasn't really up to making "wire nuts" and "Alumiconns" in billion quantity.  And labor was a lot cheaper.  Today, it would be nuts to use that technique, but I wouldn't condemn old work that has stood the test of  time.

I expect your electrician will see it the same way; if you presented new solder work done this way, forget it, but old work would be grandfathered.

Insulation is also a problem

The usual Home Depot advice is just put a booger of PVC electrical tape onto it. Actually, the ancients used layers of both "friction tape" (tar impregnated cloth tape) and rubber or plastic tape. The friction tape's job was to protect it from physical damage, notably bare corners or burrs from punching through the tape.  This is complicated enough that I don't advise it; in fact, I don't even like using split bolts or other uninsulated splices. When solder was used in mains wire, this work was done or overseen by a master electrician, and the electrical inspector relied as much on personal experience trusting that master.

The layers of insulation also make the joint uninspectable.  If an inspector saw a soldered rattail splice today, he'd have good reason to either assume it wasn't soldered, or that it was not properly insulated.

"Modern" soldering won't do

In mains wiring a lot of engineering is done to assure we're not wasting copper. Wires are intended to heat up, and are generally run at sane thermal limits.

Solder only has about 1/10 the conductivity of copper.

Now look at how modern soldering is done.  Here's a surface mount power jack.  You see the tiny tabs meant for the solder connection?

This is the mentality of modern, electronic soldering.  Put a tiny dit of solder there (even if you drown that tab in solder, there's just not that much tab there) and call it good.  That works because currents are small - that connector is rated for 1 amp, the limiting factor being the surface area of the solder.

It's "tack soldering", as distinct from a thorough splice like you have there, or a Western Union splice. The problem is, when you say "soldering", everyone hears "tack soldering, like done in electronics". That is not nearly acceptable.  Yes, Western Union etc. splices are alright.  They are also a "lost art".

I don't believe the Western Union splice is a lost art you should be re-creating, because there are better ways to do this today, and it would be difficult to re-create it properly without apprenticing under an experienced master.


My spray bottle nozzle seems busted, what should I look for?

I purchase quite a few spray nozzles a year for work. Water, windex, citrus cleaners and even cutting oil are most of my uses I find chemical resistant rated spray nozzles work best or the spring and ball start rusting and fail quickly. It sounds like your nozzle has some solids blocking it taking it off a squirt or 2 then rinse the cap may fix it , with all the different solutions you have used it must be a chemical resistant type to last that long I get them online for between 1-2$ most of the time they disappear. Chemically resistant ones do tend to last the longest.


LED Backlight Strips on TV Causing External Speaker Interference

Chances are that the the USB power and the AUX output of your TV share the same 5V power rail. When you connect the LEDs, you either overwork the power supply or some power modulation from the LEDs makes it's way through the power rails into your audio output.
One thing you could try to decouple the audio output by using a isolation transformer. Something like this perhaps https://www.amazon.com/C2G-40000-Extension-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B0047AKVYO (no endorsement intended, illustration only) .
You should check that LEDs don't draw more power than what your TV USB output is rated for. That would be 2.5W for "old" USB and 4.5W for USB 3.0 and up. If your handy with electronic stuff, there are few things with capacitors and resistors you can try, but that would probably be a better fit for https://electronics.stackexchange.com/


How to setup an audio system for TV and other audio sources?

I would go with a decent quality AV (audio video ) unit. These are essentially integrated amplifiers that handle/pass through video signals as well. You can spend as little as $200 or as much as much as many thousands of dollars. Assuming you are on a budget i would look for a mid to high level USED one ( unless you can pop for a new one ).

I scored a Denon AVR 3301ci on craigslist for $300 that was $1600 retail when new.

The lower end units may not offer you all the connect-ability you may want. the mid the upper end units will have lots of inputs for dvd, games, aux, pc, phono etc. Some of the newer units on the market have been built with streaming and Digital audio converter included.

Make sure you get one with a phono input unless you already have a phono stage ( pre amp ) for your turntable other wise you will not be able to run a turntable through it.

I would join an audio video forum such as AVSForum , and do lots of reading and research before you make and investment. Now there a lot of audiophiles on some these sites who extol the benefits of expensive this or that but there are a lot folks just like you who started out with little knowledge and or money and will love to help you get started.

Some good names in the AV unit arena are Denon, Yamaha, Pioneer.

Go the  Receivers, Amps, and Processors forum write a question and ask about recommendations for AV units with all of the needs you are looking for and you will get loads of recommendations.

You will need speakers and these units can run two in stereo or as many as 9 or 12 in surround. You can start with two and as you get more ad them.

I love my Denon and it rocks with movies or my LP's. I will say that the operation manuals from denon leave a lot to be desired but there is usually a forum dedicated to each specific unit with help and advise for those in need.


How to fill in 5/8" hole in drywall ceiling

"the best way" is super subjective, as some want easy; some want quick; some want perfect.

Since you said "make it look good", I would recommend traditional spackle (as opposed to "lightweight spackle") applied with a wide putty knife, with fine sanding between the several (at least two) applications and after the final application.

If you had said "make it look perfect" I would recommend high quality drywall topping compound, applied with successively larger drywall knives (to feather the repair area and make it near-unnoticeable in all lighting and gloss conditions) and applied and sanded in several coats as mentioned above.

The repair will likely be noticeable regardless, if your existing wall has any sort of texture and/or if you use glossy paint. There are ways to make it near-perfect but it usually means repainting the entire wall.


Converting 4 wire supply to 3 wire outlet

No, you absolutely should NOT connect the grounded (neutral) conductor to the grounding (earth) conductor.

If you have two ungrounded ( hot ) conductors, and you only want to use one. You can simply cap the unused conductor using a twist-on wire connector, or similar device.

However, when two ungrounded conductors are run, there's almost always a reason. It could be a simple multi-wire branch circuit, where one of the conductors is meant to feed other devices. Or it could be a multi-wire branch circuit, where one of the ungrounded conductors is switched. The latter is common where receptacles are split to allow half to always be hot, while the the other half is switched.


Can I use another brand of LED driver with IKEA lighting?

I can only answer this question as if I were a contractor. In general we order the drivers and material approved by the manufacturer. Meaning I would stay with the original equipment. If you choose not to use there approved equipment then it might cause damage to the entire system and void any warranty you may have for replacement. As a contractor I would recommend you stay with the original equipment or sign a release that we were not responsible for any damage and you understood that you would still have to pay me for the work performed.

Would you feel comfortable entering an agreement like that?

If you are wondering if the manufacturer would approve a different driver. You would have to see if they have them listed on their web site or call their Tech Line.


Rolled paint on wall has a patch that goes completely flat (not colour but flat as in looks like it wash brushed not rolled)

Looking at your photo that is a patched area that the person that did the patch did not know to texture it. I would rough up the area a bit with sandpaper and get a can of orange peal texture shoot the texture heavy in the center and fade to the outside (do not mask off the area or you will see the lines. After the texture is dry repaint and it will look better.
Matching texture can be very tough but orange peal (what you have I’d the easiest).
The trick is to go slowly where there is no texture and quickly where there is some.
Or have the spray can 8” in the center and as you approach the edge pull out to 16” . This will fade the repair and hide the repair.
Paint as normal note some spray textures need primer some don’t when it is a small patch like you have I use a can and the texture that seals itself or no primer needed.
Shake the can often and have plenty of fresh air some of the spray textures are kind of nasty to breathe. Read the instructions.


Lungs weren't made to filter out latex aerosols, organic solvents, urethane, epoxy fumes.

Any time you're spray painting, you should at least have a dust filter. Coughing up paint may be something you put up with in an unregulated factory, but given that masks that do the job aren't really that expensive anymore, your lung capacity will be a lot better when you're 60 and need the reserve you burnt off in youthful immortality.

Some of the paints out there can confer permanent, life-threatening allergy. We had a whole paint shop workforce here that took pride in skirting safety. Until a good portion found that painting is no longer a career option. The shop owner got religion after that.


How can I connect switches to function the way I want?

Here is an abstract wiring diagram for the circuit you want, assuming the cable from light 1 runs to switch 1:

Note the three-wire cable running between switch 1 and switch 2.

A practical wiring diagram first requires more information about the relative positions of the boxes and lights, and the cables already running between them.


Running 2nd sub panel from 1st sub panel

Can't run Romex (NM-B) outdoors, need UF-B.

The "100 amp" or whatever on the subpanel is an absolute limit

OK so you live in Wyoming and the posted speed limit is 80 mph. The tire shop has tires rated for 85 mph, 112 mph, or 130 mph.  Would you want the 85 mph tires?  You'd be running them at redline all the time.

And so it is with subpanels. 100A or whatever is the redline, as far as bus rating.

The main breaker is irrelevant in a subpanel

As far as main breakers in the sub, that's only there to be a disconnect switch, so the amp rating on it doesn't matter.

So ultimately the answer is "feel free to use a 200A-breakered, 225A-bussed subpanel fed off a 60A breaker".

What would not be OK is powering a 100A-bussed panel off a 125A breaker.

Is your panel too small?

If your basement panel is getting close to full, one option now is to upgrade it to a larger panel, and then upcycle the old panel to the garage.

When planning breaker spaces, keep in mind NEC 2020 drops a bunch of new GFCI requirements that force even more (nearly all, at this point) breakers to be full-width breakers. Narrow half-breakers or 2-in-1 breakers (we call them double-stuff) can no longer be counted on.


Your bedroom outlets have been wired to the receptacles in the traditional "switched outlet" configuration. On your receptacles there are brass bridge tabs creating the circuit between the two receptacle plugs, the electrician has removed this bridge and wired the top receptacle to a "hot" wire and the bottom to the "switched hot" from the light switch. The bottom of the light switch should have a constant "hot" wire on it. You will need to purchased a single gang two switch light switch and replace the existing single gang light switch with the dual. Jumper the existing incoming hot wire to the two new switches. One switch will continue to switch your outlets and the new switch will control the fan. You will need to run a wire to the ceiling fixture to power the fan if no current wiring exists. Use a licensed electrician if you are not capable of performing these changes.


Is there a required spacing between waste vent line and chimney?

The ultimate standard is going to be your local building department and inspector, but the International Plumbing Code only specifically prohibits plumbing in elevator shafts or in elevator equipment rooms (301.6).  The only requirements specific to location of venting deal with size, distance, and type of connection to the system that they are venting. Everything else is deferred to the International Mechanical Code.

For chimneys that are used only for venting gas-fired appliances, the IMC defers to the International Fuel Gas Code.  The relevant portion (501.15.4) of that code states only that there be airspace clearance to combustibles per the International Building Code.  Note that there is a specific exemption for masonry chimneys with a low clearance liner.

This gets you back to what it appears that you already know from your question (R1003.18) "Any portion of a masonry chimney located in the interior of the building or within the exterior wall of the building shall have a minimum air space clearance to combustibles of 2 inches (51 mm)." However, again this is exempted if a low clearance flue liner is in place:

  Masonry chimneys equipped with a chimney lining system listed and
  labeled for use in chimneys in contact with combustibles in accordance
  with UL 1777 and installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s
  installation instructions are permitted to have combustible material
  in contact with their exterior surfaces.

PVC will ignite at 435°-557°, roughly the same temperature range wood will (although it will be a molten puddle at that point). So, unless your chimney liner is rated for contact with combustibles you would need galvanized or some other form of non-combustible pipe.  If you don't know how the chimney is rated, I would take the presence of the existing air gap to indicate that it is not contact rated.

That said, if you can maintain the 2" minimum to a PVC pipe and the local code authority will sign off on it, I'd do it. Oversimplified, a 90% efficient gas furnace would basically dump only 10% of it's BTU output into the flue gas. I don't ever recall finding a brick chimney that was even warm to the touch on the outside, except right next to the inlet from the furnace.


What is code or common rule when securing multiple electrical lines?

Bunching together is a serious issue.  For instance, in EMT conduit, you are allowed only 9 active conductors regardless of pipe size, unless you derate (use larger wire than normal).  That means four circuits, or three 3-phase circuits.  I notice the multi-cable racks only hold 4 cables.

The reason is heat, and you have to design for worst case, you can't armwave it with "it's residential, they'll never all be used at capacity at once." At least it isn't for you to armwave; Code decides which corners may be cut based on a lot of research and experience.  Even then, Code is a bare minimum- common sense also applies. I wish a Code expert would speak up.


Check your water supply connections and tighten them as needed, first.

After that, I would suspect and just plan on replacing the toilet's seal, either wax or wax-free are perfectly fine. This, is actually fairly easy and quick to do.

Sound like a leap? Well, doing so may reveal the seal to be the actual problem, but also force you to assess the entire toilet in wrestling it.

If you have a 2-piece toilet, the leak could be coming from failing bolt washers in the bottom of the tank or a failing tank to bowl gasket under the tank. Is your tank loose and wobbly? A good chance that the water's coming from the tank connections that need to be tightened.

A final item is the fill valve and even specifically the bowl filling tube. The valve may be spraying the tank lid or the bowl filler may have come loose and is spraying the lid.

Like above, water may be finding the toilet's exterior and just running down to the base periodically.


What could cause a mobile home furnace not to light?

Does the pilot light and stay lit when you hold in the control knob in the "pilot" position?

If yes, you may need a new thermocouple, it is the little tube looking thing next to the pilot flame area. When it gets heated it sends an electrical signal to the gas valve which allows the gas to flow and the pilot to stay lit (and burner to light).

If no, you have a different problem. Check to ensure the gas supply is not obstructed or turned off; make sure you are closely following the lighting instructions. You may need a new gas control valve. Call your gas supply utility, tell them you need help and they will send someone out (usually for free) who will be able to diagnose simple problems and sometimes fix them. You may have to call an HVAC professional if nothing else works.


Ground wire not long enough in 4-prong dryer cord?

It appears to me you didn't buy the Whirlpool brand cord, WP has ring terminals not forks. It is quite possible the maker of your cord didn't expose enough conductor to spread the connections for your dryer. Your options would be to get a WP cord or cut the black jacket back another inch or two and loop line conductors a little below the terminals.
Do leave the bonding strap in place where you have it and as the instructions show. Many people don't realize that on Whirlpool dryers the other end of that 4" long green wire is a stake-on landed right back on top of the neutral terminal, and as connected for 4 wire connections it is just a pointless loop. Here is a picture of that wire https://amzn.to/2IJBUKl .  It's just a place holder when wired for a 4 wire, but the part is present and moved to the ground screw if your only option is a 3 wire connection.


Do these insulation panels contain asbestos?

I would 99+% guarantee it is urethane foam . One of the raw material components is cyanide if you want to worry.


Adding strongback bracing to an existing floor truss

I've built quite a few homes with floor trusses, and we didn't always have the foresight or opportunity to lay in strongbacks during the truss set. Have you tried getting longer 2x6 boards in there? You might be surprised how much they flex. I'd bet you can get 16-footers in there without much issue.
I'd start with that. Just don't let your grip slip and smack yourself in the chin. Once you have one in place, use it up against the top chords as a slider for the next ones.
Otherwise, you're onto something with the OSB. As you probably know, OSB is what makes up the vertical component of TJI joists, meaning it has plenty of strength on that axis to act as a strongback. You could rip 8-10" widths from 1/2"x8' sheets, flex them into place, and stagger the butt joints of two layers by two trusses. I have confidence that this would do at least as well as 2x6 lumber.
Actually, 7/16"x10' OSB is commonly available. If you shortened them to 115.2" you'd span one more joist.
FYI, such strongbacks are usually set against the top chord. By keeping them tight in all cases you ensure a flat floor. (Even engineered trusses can have some crown or wiggle to them.) If you have the option I'd move your ducts down and do that. It might help to have them temporarily out of the way anyway. Otherwise it probably doesn't matter much at this point.


Best tool & method for cutting steel tubes (table legs)?

A hack saw is a fine tool to cut fairly thin gauge tubing (which this seems to be). You may want to use a jig of some sort, such as a miterbox, to keep your cut square to the piece.

Tape around the diameter to minimize chipping of the finish.  File down the cut edge to remove the burrs from sawing, using a metal file, followed by emory paper.

If there is a finishing cap on the bottom, you may be able to pry it from the cut off section and reinsert it in the shorter leg.

There are alternatives for cutting tubing, such as a tubing cutter (but not especially well suited to steel - save for softer metals, such as copper), Dremel-type tool (small grinding system with "cutoff wheels", basically abrasive disks - slow, better for smaller items), abrasive grinding tools (somewhat crude and messy) and metal cutting miter saws (a bit of overkill unless you have it at hand).

For all of these cuttings (especially motorized ones) use safety glasses! It's all fun and games until someone gets a metal shaving in the eye.


installing sliding shower door when width is larger than tub

Make a 2” return on each end or 4” one end to support the sliding units which takes up the extra space.

Now you have added the picture I would go for the 4” - designed to match the shelf or just completely box-in that end... but that shelf area could be useful....

Some shower screens don’t go the full length of the bath anyway - I fitted one that is 2/3 of the bath length which works fine for the shower.


not a lot of love on this question so far. It isn't likely to be your pump going out. The pipes will expand and contract as they heat and cool (you run the hot water, the pipe heats up and gets longer, then it cools back down and shrinks). The thumping noise could just be the pipe shifting, especially if it's in tight contact with some framing inside a wall somewhere, so a little pressure builds up, then it slips, then a little more pressure, then it slips again, etc.

Or one of the water lines might be moving and bumping against a wall as water is flowing through it, especially if it's something like PEX and isn't secured everywhere that it's supposed to be, but it could also happen with metal pipe and wouldn't necessarily mean you have a problem, aside from the noises.

Another phenomenon is hammering, where the sudden pressure change when a water outlet is shut off causes the pipe to shift suddenly and creates a hammering sound.


Can I insulate between a brick chimney and drywall?

If there is a straight open space accessible from above, you might consider  polyisocyanurate foam insulation. A 2 inch board has R-13 insulation.

You might want to consider a wireless thermostat.  There are numerous types (both proprietary and wifi) that would allow you to move the sensor elswhere even if the base station was on the heated wall.


The concern that I know of is that you don't want the wiring to risk shorting high voltage wiring to a low voltage wire or device.  For that reason, you don't run phone and cable lines within the same wall cavity as electrical (and I also keep plumbing away from electrical).

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I'd hope the USB components are fully enclosed, just as the internals of the outlet are.  Assuming that's the case, and I'd be surprised to see thinkgeek selling it if it wasn't, then it's no different then worrying about the possible short when a USB adapter is plugged into the outlet.

Edit, looking at one of the zoomed pics I'm seeing what appears to be part of a metal enclosure around the USB, which should be grounded.  That should prevent any shorting risk to the USB.  That said, my concern is that the thin parts of the wall plate could easily crack on this, and then you're getting yourself into the task of creating a custom wall plate to fit the USB plug openings.

Edit2: As much as I love thinkgeek, you can pickup something like this surge protector/usb plug for less.  No turning off of the breakers needed.


NEC 725.55 does not allow you to run class 1 cable in the same raceway as class 2 & class 3 cable, so you'll have to run a new power cable outside of the PVC conduit that holds the audio/video cables.

The best way to accomplish this (if you still want to use your SmartStrip), is to use one of these guys.

You'll install one hookup behind the media cabinet, and install the other behind the TV. Next, you'll have to pull properly rated cable between the two boxes (outside of the conduit). Once all the connections are made, you will be able to plug a short extension into the SmartStrip, then into the outlet behind the media cabinet. Now you can plug the TV power cord into the outlet behind the TV, and still benefit from the SmartStrip or other surge suppression device behind the media cabinet.

Unfortunately, you're going to have to cut a couple holes in the wall for the junction boxes. However, if you use old work boxes you'll only have to cut holes large enough for the boxes to slide into, since they don't need to be attached to structural members.


How to separate wooden shelf support from concrete floor

Here are some different approaches:

Support it on the wall instead of the floor.
As there are options to place hangers or other support-like parts possible it's an option for clear-floor solution. It isn't my best advice as you will be restricted with the weigth limit (supports). It's just somtimes you want all the floor clear for easier cleaning or (in your case) being safe from rotting.
Use non-rotting supports.
Why not to use some brick or a concrete block (attached to the floor or not) as a support with tar paper between wood and brick/block. This solution will be a solid one. My favourite as an answer.
Use replaceable/expendable support.
Why not to use some wooden posts that can be replaced in like a year or so (when you could just make some garage refurbishement)? It's an option when you are not sure what to choose or just can't (not want) to go into brick/concrete stuff. Just remember that these parts (supportive expendables) need to be solidly attached to your posts in some way (you can use metal sockets or connectors).
Metal parts socket-like with anti-corrosion layer.
Be it a paint or a zinc-layer, you will for sure find anything like that in stores. Some of these are nornally used by deck builders. You can, of course, paint them yourself as well.


There are many ways to build what you're proposing, but the one that jumped to mind first is akin to a panel/frame assembly.

Start with a post (~1.5"x3.5"/ ~38mm x 88mm, or larger), firmly attached to the floor and ceiling. This could be a bracket that wraps around the post, it could be a bolt at one end that mates with a hole, or it could be a couple of L brackets. At the doorway, make sure the posts are extra solid.

Butt a panel of mdf to the post and secure it as drawn. Caulking/sealant in the gaps will probably help reduce sound transmission. Set the next post plumb/ in line and repeat.

Depending on the gaps at the floor and ceiling, you'd probably want either a foam weatherstripping or caulking/sealant and possibly a strip of timber (~3/4"/18mm) on both sides to make it look finished.

Note, the fancy version of the post is a little harder to make airtight and more bothersome both in terms of milling and assembly. It is a little cleaner looking, though.