Will a water pressure booster stress my house's plumbing?

You indicated you're on city water. Even assuming it's only a 1/2" supply line into the house your pressure on entry almost certainly is over 100 psi. Most water companies deliver at 125 to 150 psi. Recommended pressure in homes is 65 to 70 psi.
You almost certainly have a pressure regulator on your system. I think it's required on all city supplied water systems. If it's too old or corroded to adjust you may have to replace it. You can also buy a pressure gauge at your local home center and measure the actual pressure at a spigot so you'll know what it is.
Also, your water company should be able to tell you what the approximate curb pressure is. It does vary depending on your distance from the water company.


Even though the panels snap to each other they are nailed to the wall at the top edge of the panel. So it's probably a good idea to nail it back. Just make sure it's a little loose because the panels expand and shrink a lot depending on outside temperature.


Least complex solution connecting 20lb propane tank to 1/2" male NPT through a twin-stage regulator

The barbecue regulators are all you need with the appropriate adapter. Usually on a crimped barbecue reg the output side is a female flare fitting. So you'd need a 1/2 npt x I think 3/8 flare.


You don't need to upgrade the supply breaker.

The sub-panel can be any size 50 amps or up. Sub-panel "size" is more about space than amperage, at any point past "at least as big as the supply" and space is a good thing to have which normally does not cost much.

It's often worth comparing the price of basic "main" panels that move in volume (100A, 200A) to the cost of a sub-panel which are sometimes MORE expensive, because they sell a lot less of them, or they cost a trivial amount less.

It's perfectly fine to feed a 100A(or whatever) main breaker from a 50 A breaker - the 100A breaker will be serving as a disconnect switch, and you will remove the bonding screw in that panel so it IS a sub-panel. Then you'll have plenty of space for anything.

In most cases the best way to add a wire in existing conduit (unless someone left you a pull string, and sometimes even then) is to pull out the wires in it now (and use them to pull in a pulling rope as you do), add the new wire, and pull all the wires back in together. Green insulated may be a better choice than bare for your grounding wire; Among other considerations, stranded pulls a lot easier than solid.

In the new sub-panel with a 4-wire feed, you'll keep the grounds and neutrals isolated (removal of the bond screw and using a separate bar for grounding connections) and you will either tie the grounds into the grounding electrode system the shed (as a separate structure) should already have had, or add that and bond it to your ground as well.


Do disconnect breakers have to be the same brand of breaker as in the main panel?

Generally, the breaker has to match the manufacturer of the box. But you do not need to match manufacturers between separate boxes.


First, don’t experiment i.e. trying random stuff “to see if that fixes it”.  There are lots of combinations that will work and will kill you.
Second, you are quite close on identifying the wire’s operational roles.  They are:

Hot from supply (always measures hot)
Onward power to other points of use
Switched power to the light

If the first and second are connected, then the rest of your house will work.  And they should always be connected no matter what you do.
What’s driving you up the wall is that you are continuing a sloppy practice someone else started, which is using the switch itself as a junction block for unrelated things.  (I.e. the connection between supply and onward).
Very few switches even have provision for 2 wires on the line screw; that generally forces you into using a “backstab”, which is a bad idea all around.
You may be better off obtaining wire, nuts and the other kit required to make this a pigtail connection: join the two important wires (supply and onward) under a wire nut, so you are not using the switch as a splice, and then have a third short wire hop from the splice to the switch.  This will also make the circuit more understandable for the next person.  (Who might be you!)
I pigtail most of my stuff for a different reason, most of my connections are in awkward locations. It is easier to pigtail the outlet on a bench, then at the box simply whip together supply, onward and pigtail with a wire nut.


What is an Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter?

AFCI's detect patterns of current that usually indicate some sort of electrical problem. Unlike a GFCI which is making sure that current going out = current coming back, AFCI's try to look for electrical usage that would not trip a GFCI but might be something causing an electrical fire. Most code now requires them for bedroom circuits.

The one major drawback for them is that some stuff tricks them into tripping. Often times larger machines with motors, like a vacuum cleaner or power tool can trip them. They are still a good thing to have, just be aware of this limitation


Lowe's has a nice overview, but here's a quick summation: First, check the sink trap to see if the clog is there. Most kitchen sinks have a "clean-out plug" in the u-bend pipe attached to the drain under the sink - this pipe is called the "trap." It should have a "cap" screwed into it, called a clean-out plug, with a square knob on it - this knob is where you put a pipe wrench to loosen the plug and remove it. Be sure to have a good size basin, bucket or large mixing bowl underneath to catch anything coming out of it! If you don't see the clog, feed the snake into the drain from the plug, until you feel the obstruction... if you don't run into the clog, try feeding the snake up the other way, it could be between the sink and the trap. Rotate the snake's auger while keeping up a gentle forward pressure, and this will break up the clog. When you pull out the snake, it will probably have some nasty, dripping gunk on the auger, so keep that basin and some paper towels handy!


Can I manually run the blower on my Lennox G12Q3 furnace?

With a old school thermostat that you just adjust the temp with normally there are not any additional wires to run the fan. It can be done but will require more wires and an additional switch or new thermostat. A few houses back I had a gas forced air system like yours I added a fan over ride switch at the furnace , this turned on the blower and was helpful at cooling the house off in the summer.


Running electric to treehouse from outdoor load center

If this tree-house involves children, I suggest you go another way entirely.

Make it an experiment/exposition in off-grid solar technologies.  Use the most common voltage for smaller off-grid systems: 12V DC.    There's a lot of exciting stuff going on in this field.  It is highly accessible to children.  It engages them in STEM.  And unlike many "STEM projects, childrens' version", you get to work in the real magilla, with the same hardware the pros use.  The same design issues arise, and he gets direct field experience with them. So those skills apply directly to the solar/off-grid field.

See?  This suddenly becomes worlds safer, and a whole bunch of Code and permitting issues just disappear!

(well not quite. Code does have a thing or two to say about low voltage power systems. But violating Code in this area isn't going to get anyone electrocuted and probably won't burn your tree down.)

If the system needs help, you could certainly add a 12V battery charger fed from 120V.  But you'd have flexibility to put that in a safe, code legal location.


That doesn't look like drywall texture to me. It looks like stippling from a heavy-nap roller. The reason you don't see it along the trim is because a brush was used there.
When you paint, do the brush edging, then immediately roll over it as close as you can to the trim. This will minimize the smooth strip.


Mudding over plaster walls with pre-mixed joint compound

The answer really depends on what you are trying to do.  A full skim coat, patching, or covering lead paint.  In general, many GP premixed compounds specifically say not to be used as a skim coat.

For the sake of argument, let's assume you are doing a full skim coat. Start with a full bodied joint compound, not a lightweight. Divide the pail in half into another container.  Cut it a bit with water and Ivory dish soap, mix extremely well until it is the consistency of pudding.  Firm enough to stay on your hawk, but loose enough to glide on the wall. This mix will elimamate most of the air bubbles and give you a very smooth coat without a lot of sanding. Apply with a 12 to 16 trowel or knife.  Make your first coat about 1/16" thick. Sand it with a very fine sanding sponge or screen. Give it a second coat to fill the void spots and sand it again.  You can wet float it for a glass like finish.


Shower problem: Can't turn off hot water

I bet you it's the rubber washer that is gone, crushed beyond sealing. Easy and cheap repair. Of they have been replaced and it still leaks, then the brass seat is bad and could possibly be polished/filed to a smooth surface again. If that's not possible then a new valve assembly will be needed. The rubber washer is at the end of the shaft, screwed in with a screw in the center. You could also try a thicker one or a fine shaped one of it will fit.


What could be causing my dishwasher to display a "water Inlet" error?

Actually it turned out to be a stuck impeller issue. Saw this video on youtube which was very useful. I didnt even have to use a broken fork - just a wire hanger to jiggle the impeller and everything worked fine (till the impeller gets stuck again...:(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nF_0NRrw9TM


Bathroom lights go off and come back on after a few minutes

if you have LED bulbs in a globe with no airflow, they can overheat. Many have a thermal shutdown feature that will turn off the LEDs if they get too hot. Once they cool down, the controller allows them to turn on again. This explains why flipping the power does nothing: they are still too hot.

Try a lower wattage bulb, a more expensive bulb, or a decorative tungsten bulb.


What size pipe fitting has an outside diameter of about 1/2 inch?

1/4" NPT fittings have a nominal outside diameter of just over .5". That's what you have.


Are the door closers absolutely needed for storm door?

The closer has a few purposes:

it closes the door so that you don't have to remember to every time.  It will also pull the door closed if it opens accidentally (for example, if the wind catches the door).
it prevents the door from moving too fast, and usually prevents it from opening past about 90 degrees. (Anecdote: I know someone who didn't have a closer on his storm door.  The door opened so that it would catch the prevailing winds -- which are often strong -- in his area, but he never had problems until one time he forgot to close it and it swung open, hit the wall next to the door and knocked out a pane of glass.  With a closer, it  might not have been able to move fast enough or far enough to do any damage.)
it provides a second point of attachment to the door frame for the side of the door that opens, which helps to hold the door if the wind catches it.

Does the door close securely, and will you always remember to close it securely?  If not, I'd say you need the closer.


TV wall mount problem. (Studs too far apart)

The best way to deal with this problem is to first mount a suitable piece of 3/4" plywood on the wall such that it spans to studs where it can be securely attached. The TV mount can then be mounted to the plywood using suitable screws that go into properly sized pilot holes. Note that face screwing into the plywood provides an excellent and strong mount point.

You may want to paint the plywood with primer and then a color to match the wall before affixing the TV mount.

Note that if the far distance of the stud spacing is due to trying to mount the TV over a fireplace then you should totally reconsider mounting the TV there. The main issue being that the best ergonomic placement of the TV is to locate it at eye level when you are sitting in front of it. Having to look up at the TV, even if it is tilted downwards, is a pain in the neck. (literally!). There is also consideration of what heat from a fireplace may do the sensitive electronics and plastics of the TV unit.


I searched for SGC 2176 +glass and the results included a site for SGC network which apparently makes glass. You may be able to ask them about the numbers and they may be able to point you to a manufacturer.


dimmable led bulbs won't work in dimmable fixture

I found that when I replaced the four incandescent 40 watt lamps in my ceiling fan light fixture with LED 60 watt rated (about 6 watts) they wouldn't work unless I reinstall one incandescent. I think it's because the dimmer needs at least 40 watts to work. I guess I'd better replace the dimmer with one rated for LED, but so far they will dim or work bright. I think I'll just run on bright until I replace the dimmer switch.


New install of toilet and it slightly rocks front to back, not sideways

There are plastic wedges designed to stop rocking of toilets. Don't try to stop the rocking by tightening the floor bolts.


How to properly ground a subpanel in detached building?

Pull 4 conductors (2 ungrounded (hot), 1 grounded (neutral), 1 grounding) (250.32(B)(1)).
Grounded (neutral) and grounding bus must be separate at sub-panel (250.32(B)(1)).
No need for a GFCI breaker in the main panel, unless your local code requires it.
A grounding electrode system is required at the second structure (250.32(A)).


I would call the installer.  It's only been a week, you should still be under warranty.  You've checked the obvious things.


Can I leave an open port when using push-in connectors?

Leaving open ports is fine. They make smaller sizes for space considerations. Combination packs are available, though they are more expensive when not bought in bulk.

Ideal's Twister® wire connectors(p.3) have specifications for the minimum and maximum numbers of wires. Their In-Sure™ push-in connectors(p.15) are only limited by the number of ports and will accept "any combination of #12-18 AWG solid and stranded copper wires".


It looks like it could be a foam roofing material to me. That's a relatively new development though, as in less than 20 years old. It's used a lot on older buildings however because it's just sprayed on as a liquid that expands and foams up to get into all of the crevices in old tar paper and gravel or rolled roofs, without having to remove the old roofing. It also adds quite a bit of thermal insulation, typically lacking in old roofs and buildings. I've heard that now 90% of buildings in Arizona are getting foam roofing done now.


How to best to install vinyl floor around the base of banister?

Newel posts aren't usually undercut. I would fit your flooring around it and install base shoe, mitered at the corners.


I think you're on the right track.  I'd apply enough glue so some squeezes out, wipe the face with a damp towel to remove the residue, and either clamp it or wrap it with blue painters tape until dry.  Just make sure that the wood remains flat and not bowed when you clamp it.  After the joint is dry, remove the tape or clamps, and you should be good to go.  If the finish is hazy, polish it with steel wool (0000) or I'd use a rattle can of poly or Deft wood finish to feather it in before you install it. It will take another 10 minutes and better disguise the split.  If it's a dark finish, there's "dark wood" Titebond available.


What are the holes in this brick fireplace?

They are fresh air supplies for the firebox. Houses built in recent times are have less air infiltration to supply air for combustion in fireplaces, so the fireplaces have had to have air "piped in" to allow for proper burning.


Why are some submersible well pumps wired with solid and others stranded?

The biggest difference in solid and stranded is the flexibility of stranded.  It is easier to pull and bend.  One does not handle more amperage or voltage than the other, unless you get into fine stranded cable like a battery or welder, which are not used as building wire.


How can I route the shower plumbing back into the wall?

That type of control valve is intended for the pipe to stay inside the shower enclosure.  Why not just run it up the wall to an elbow and then across the ceiling to another elbow for the showerhead?

Otherwise you would need a control intended for all the plumbing to be inside the wall like this:

There are a number of accessory finishes for the handle and trim.


Should I think about insulating a cheap conservatory? if so how do I do it?

For the solid walls you could use insulated plasterboard (example only). This would reduce the dimensions of the room slightly and require new skirting boards and finishing around windows and doors.

I think other thickness of insulation are available.

You're already thinking of replacing the roof, so look into double glazed panels if you can get them to fit.

Secondary double glazing over the windows might be a sensible option too.


Moving and covering light fixtures in bathroom

How you get the wire there depends on framing, access, etc. Hard for us to say. Ideally you have a continuous cable from the switch or power source. Old wires need to be disconnected at both ends.
Ditto.
You can't cover junction boxes that are in use. You'll need to have a continuous cable from your switch, or you'll need to put a decorative plate over any remaining boxes and keep them accessible.


How do I connect my refrigerator water line to the house line?

In North America, standard main supply lines are 3/4" and branch lines are 3/4" or 1/2". The best way to the connect the fridge supply is to put in a T and a shut-off valve with a 1/4" compression connector. The exact valve you need depends on what your supply line is made of (eg, copper or pex).

Another alternative is to use a Saddle Valve. These often come with fridge hook-up kits. Personally, I hate these things. They are easy to connect, because you just screw it on, and then turn the valve to pierce the the supply line. They're also terrible valves, they can typically be used as a shut-off only a handful of times before they start leaking, and the only fix is to cut out and replace that section of supply line (at which point, you might as well splice in the T and proper valve).

If you do really want to use a saddle valve, you should put in a separate in-line shut-off valve. The fridge gets moved around sometimes (Eg, to clean), there are a bunch of compression connections involved.. basically there is a higher-than-normal chance of something leaking, and a shut-off is just a good idea.

My opinion: for the price of the extra valve, might as well do it properly and skip the saddle valve entirely.


Flickering lights, sometimes no power to some

You may have a lost pole/phase or neutral. That is very serious problem but the good news is that in most places you can call your electric utility and they will check and likely fix it as most of the time this is a utility problem and not a problem in your house. Key clue is a 240v load making 120v loads work.
CALL YOUR ELECTRIC UTILITY AND TELL THEM YOU HAVE A PARTIAL OUTAGE AND DESCRIBE THE PROBLEM.
Until this is fixed you may have more problems - including risk of damage to equipment or fire - than you realize.


what type R value insulation for 960 sq.ft. garage

Code minimum is generally R-13 for insulation inside stud walls, or R-10 for  insulation outboard of masonry walls. More is always better. But this question is far too broad and subjective to be satisfactorily answered; it's like "how should I build a house?" You can insulate your new garage any way you want, limited by the building code and existing construction (Frame? Block? Something else?), and subject to correct installation for the method you choose.


Do I need to remove existing drywall before framing an interior wall?

I know you already accepted, but I disagree with @bib on a few points that don't fit in a comment, so I'll provide my own answer.

So long as you build a solid frame and connect it well, once installed there is really no chance of existing drywall being "crushed" by the frame. To crush the connecting drywall after installation, you'd need a very serious lateral force which is enough to flex or shift the frame itself. Since your wall connects at both ends, it would pretty much be impossible to put this lateral force on the new wall.

You of course have to be careful during construction since it is possible to crush what's there now.

Wall construction

Solid construction means using 16d (3 1/2") nails (I prefer spiral to common, or use a pneumatic framing nailer). I'd also connect it into the existing structure using 3 1/2" #8 or #10 screws (not nails). Screws are stronger, and trying to hammer in nails is going to cause that lateral force that may damage the drywall (as @bib suggests).

This includes screwing into the subfloor and ceiling. The subfloor should be plywood, so to prevent it from shifting you can attach anywhere with 2 1/2" screws. The ceiling will just be drywall covering joists; if the joists run perpendicular you should be able to anchor to each one; if they run parallel then if you're lucky there will be one right over top (likely since it's at a corner) and if you're unlucky you'll have to add framing.

There is definitely a stud on the top end of your new wall (since it's a corner) so just be sure to screw into that.

3/8" vs 1/2" drywall

There are, however, a couple things I'd point out regarding the 3/8" drywall you mentioned:

Standard 16" O.C. framing uses 1/2" drywall. If you put 3/8" on 16" O.C. framing, it is not going to be strong enough and will flex if someone leans against it. I personally would only use 3/8" for boxing in a soffit on the ceiling of a basement or similar.
If your existing drywall is 3/8", then I'd be worried if the new corner joints (mostly the one at the top right in your diagram) will be strong enough. Any flexing on the walls in the corner will cause cracks down the corner. You may need to put some framing in behind to support the drywall - this means opening the wall there.
Even if your existing drywall is 3/8", I'd still use 1/2" for this new wall.

Speaking of drywall, I'd remove the corner bead on the existing outside corner (in your drawing: at the top left of the new wall). This will make it easier to tape and finish the new drywall; you can treat it like a butt joint.

To open or not open drywall

On the bottom of your diagram, if there is no stud, then you have two choices really, and to me it depends on a few things.

If it's an interior wall, it's probably easy enough to just open the wall and add a stud or horizontal framing between existing studs. You can do this on an exterior wall as well, but you additionally have to deal with insulation and vapour barrier.

Attaching a wall to drywall without a stud

If, and only if, you have a solid attachment point in the floor and ceiling (meaning joists) within about 1' of the wall edge, you can avoid opening the drywall.

Use a few zinc drywall anchors (probably one every 16"). To install this:

Place a single 2x4" on the wall, and pre-drill through it right into the drywall for every anchor point (every 16")
Remove the 2x4" and put the anchors into the drywall
Screw the 2x4" into the new anchors
Build the new wall same as you normally would, so when finished you'll end up with two studs on this end, and solidly attach the studs together solidly using 2 1/2" #8 or #10 screws (you don't want to apply hammer force onto the drywall).
Be sure to put a couple 3 1/2" #10 screws into the joists above and below near the ends.

By building the wall this way, you are essentially using the new wall to support the existing drywall, rather than using the drywall to support the wall, which is why the connections to the floor and ceiling joists are so important.

You could do the same for the ceiling in case there are no joists above, however, I would not do both, and I would not do the ceiling this way if the new wall is longer than the length of a single 2x4".


How can I set up my somfy controlled blinds to go up and down at specific time periods?

You need a way to send Infrared signals to the Adapter. So you will also need to buy a remote for another 50USD.

So to use it from another computer somewhere else in the office you first need to get this

USB Wireless adapter for your PC

Then you need to get an access point to bridge the wireless to a electric

This AP - i am not sure but you might need something more- read more here

But i think this temperature controller will be better- as you dont have to program any thing just set some temps and viola- but again- you might need to buy something extra to connect to your blinds.. read more


No, LED bulbs are not bad for an inverter. Although LED are Semiconductor devices and work on DC only, the circuitry inside the bulb drives the LED from AC voltage.

The AC voltage coming out of the inverter will eventually be converted to a DC voltage to drive the LED. This will be done internal to the LED bulb unit.

Overall, LED bulbs will benefit inverter by using less current rather than harming it.


To determine why the footing broke some more information on the footing such as hole depth, diameter, climate as well as what your cement mix was would be helpful.

My best guess as to why the cement cracked would be that it was not mixed correctly, or simply not enough cement to hold the mail box.

I would not recommend trying to shore it up, in my experience that is always more trouble than it is worth. Your best bet is likely to dig it out and put in new concrete. You said you are looking for a simply solution so take a look at Quikrete or something similar depending on where you are and what you can get. The premixed Quikrete stuff is dead easy just add water and fill the hole.

I like to overbuild so I would make sure the hole is 3+ feet deep, minimum 8 inches diameter and I would set a 4x4 to hold the mail box.


Seal tightly and hope. I've had it stay good for a decade.

Worst that happens is you throw it out then.


Installing two outdoor receptacles using T LB pvc, How many ground wires?

That conduit body is not large enough to contain a splice. You'll have to either run two grounds, or find a different place to splice.

References:

National Electrical Code 2017 314.16(C)(2); Allows splices, taps, and devices in conduit bodies, but only if the volume is stamped on it and it's large enough.
National Electrical Code 2017 314.16(B); Says that the CB would have to be at least 11.25 cu.in. to have a splice. (4 pass through conductors + grounds = 5 fill units. 5 * 2.25 = 11.25).

At least that's how I interpret the code.


There are two types of problems you'll need to overcome:

High instantaneous loads, such as compressors and some well pumps, require high-output batteries and inverter. Though you state startup requires 800 W, for a second or so, it might draw several times as much power. A 3 kW inverter probably can handle that, using a few batteries in parallel. This should work, since well pumps run intermittently and likely won't deplete the battery in the long run.
Refrigeration loads run frequently, and are often the biggest energy consumer in a household. You'd need a large photovoltaic array to charge in daylight, and large capacity batteries to run the fridge at night and when the sun is not at optimum angle. You might be better off using a small automotive refrigerator or marine refrigerator, designed to run directly from batteries sans inverter. They have less room, and likely cannot keep ice cream solid, but are generally more practical off-the-grid.

A home rerigerator might use ~30-150 kW-Hours/mo, ~1-5 kW-hours/day, and you'd need about three times that capacity in solar generation, because panels are rated for peak output, in direct, perpendicular, sunlight. You'll also need additional storage capacity for rainy periods. For a 0.4 cubic meter (14 cubic foot) high-efficiency home refrigerator, that comes to ~3,000 watts in photovoltaic panels, and ~3,000 watt/hours (250 ampere-hours at 12 volts) in batteries to run just the fridge daily and for two rainy days. You can perform the same calculations for a specific high-efficiency automotive or marine refrigerator. If you have access to cold ocean water, some marine fridges can use that to cool the condenser unit, making the device more efficient.

Hint: If the power fails, eat the ice cream first. ;-)

However, if you're already wired into a local energy supplier, can you sell back any excess electricity generated? That obviates the need for expensive storage batteries with limited life-span. In the USA, for example, "With a grid-connected system, when your renewable energy system generates more electricity than you can use at that moment, the electricity goes onto the electric grid for your utility to use elsewhere. The Public Utility Regulatory Policy Act... requires power providers to purchase excess power..." Look into option this in the Caribbean, where you live,


Adding sub panel, odd main panel configuration

The black strap behind the main breaker ties the two neutral bars together

According to the wiring diagram on your panel label and the photos you posted, the inter-neutral tie in your panel is performed by the black insulated strap that sits behind the main breaker.  This configuration is relatively common for loadcenters, and works relatively well for keeping the inter-neutral tie out of the way when dual neutral bars are used.

The bonding screw is on the left side, but looks like it needs to be tightened.

The bonding screw on your panel is the 13th (yes) small screw down on the left side neutral bar.  It appears to be present in your photos, although backed out --  turning off the main breaker, tightening it down firmly so that it makes good contact with the cabinet, and turning the main breaker back on again will cure that issue and provide you with a solid neutral-ground bond at your panel.


They are wrong. Drywall is gypsum and paper. In the presence of standing water, paper will grow mold and gypsum will turn to mush. It is water-soluble. That means it will dissolve. Give it a kick with your shoe on. It will probably feel soft and mushy.

Replace everything with materials that are not affected by water: cinderblocks, cementboard, lime plaster, tile, etc. Wood and drywall in a basement are, in my opinion, terrible ideas. Basements flood. It's just a fact of life. And when they do, all the pretty wood and nice drywalled stud walls are toast.


What could cause banging in the hot water tap?

You've got a bad valve causing the water to stop. You may be able to only replace the cartridge/valve inside the faucet to solve the issue, but keep in mind that this could also be the shutoff under the sink. As user663387 says, the banging sound is water hammer, but I suspect that's an effect rather than the cause.


how much 3 inch B-vent (double wall) for water heater can be above the roof?

Let me answer my own question as this might help someone else.
After much research and back and forth with Amerivent (thanks Karen O.)tech support I've learned that they feel the SELKIRK guide is the definitive guide on venting  and as per that guide, 5 feet is the minimum vertical (only) height for B-vent with 6 feet recommended and that it doesn't matter if its conditioned or unconditioned space. And of course how high you have to stick up out of the roof penetration is of course dependent on slope and proximity to vertical surfaces and the roof itself, not including other combustion vents.
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/~/media/selkirk/reference-documents/common/file/product-literature/venting/selkirk-rv-type-b-vent/selkirk-sizing-handbook--application-guide.pdf
This gentleman also has some nice pictures and explanations. He doesn't advocate for no-caulk vent flashing boots but according to Oatey they are B-vent rated. (I'm gonna use an Amerivent storm collar with high temp silicone sealant above that Oatey no-caulk vent pipe boot as well) as a precaution.
http://www.summerville-home-inspector.com/comment/reply/129?device=desktop
Also, don't use the generic vent cap Home Depot sells from Amerivent. Use the lock on kind you can get from Amerivent online.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also I've read on Inspectopedia that 16 inches apart for adjacent chimneys is the minimum and obviously you need to leave enough room for the new flashing not to interfere with the adjacent chimney's old flashing.


Do I need common trip breakers for a house wired with shared neutrals?

The National Electrical Code requires simultaneous disconnection of multiwire branch circuit ungrounded conductors.
It does NOT require common trip breakers.
Here are the pertinent articles:

210.4(B) Disconnecting Means. Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates.
Informational Note: See 240.15(B) for information on the use of single-pole circuit breakers as the disconnecting means.
240.15(B) Circuit Breaker as Overcurrent Device. Circuit breakers shall open all ungrounded conductors of the circuit both manually and automatically unless otherwise permitted in 240.15(B)(1), (B)(2), (B)(3), and (B)(4).
(1) Multiwire Branch Circuit. Individual single-pole circuit breakers, with identified handle ties, shall be permitted as the protection for each ungrounded conductor of multi-wire branch circuits that serve only single-phase line-to-neutral loads.

Notice the last Article 240.15(B)(1) allows you to use identified handle ties on single pole breakers for multiwire branch circuits.
Besides that, any house built under an older Code (like 1983) is normally grandfathered until you make major changes, like replacing the panel, and have to then upgrade to the new code requirements.
As far as determining which circuits are multiwire. You can start with the white and black on the 50 amp breakers those should be paired. Then any red wire would normally be in a multiwire cable with a black. Determining which red goes with which black will be your project.
Good luck and stay safe!


How do you protect solar panels from hail?

Smaller panels are one way to go; see this article Hail Damage and your Solar Panels:

  If you decide to install photovoltaic
  modules and worry about hail damage,
  there are a couple of things to
  consider. One of the most important
  concerns the size of the modules. If
  the region you live in is subject to
  frequent or serious hail storms,
  smaller modules are easier and less
  costly to replace. Also if a large
  module sustains damage, it will
  seriously reduce the power output, or
  even cause the system to fail
  completely. The drawback with using
  smaller modules is that they are often
  more expensive to install.

But of course there is not much that would withstand very large size hail but then your home insurance should cover the damage (just like the damage that would happen to your car and/or house during one of those hail storms).  I do not think it is very expensive to get your solar panels added onto your home insurance policy (if they are not covered already).  See this answer too: Do roof solar panels and hail mix?


It is likely a defective shower valve, allowing too much cold water to mix with the hot.
If the showers are all the same brand and model you could make a swap and verify this suspicion.

It could also be a pipe issue. If there's a nearby sink which might share plumbing, run the hot for 1 minute into a bucket, run the cold for one minute into a bucket, and compare the ratio.  Now do the same at a "good" shower.  This might show the same pattern of differential flow.


Can I drill 3-1/2" holes through five joists?

This bracket provides a building code approved solution for holes up to 6" through as many joists as you want - Joist Hole Reinforcer. Full disclosure, this is a product that I sell for the exact application in question. There are other ways to reinforce joists with holes, but I believe this is the only one that is code compliant out of the box. Hope this is is useful and helpful to others, not intending to spam.


How clean up linseed oil stains after spill on stone patio?

If the area isn't unreasonably large a poultice of talc and mineral spirits should work. You could purchase a commercial poultice preparation if you don't care to play Kitchen Chemist, but it may take some shopping to find a large tub rather than the small jars marketed for countertop maintenance.

For areas too large for that but too small to have steam cleaned your best bet is probably a commercial degreasing product (or copious amounts of mineral spirits) and your garden hose. Soaking the area first should help by saturating the stone so the solvents won't be able to carry more contaminates into the stone.


How would I go about wiring a new light fixture where there are more wires than expected?

Personally, I would put the cap back on and back away slowly.
IMO your only option is to call an electrician to come and replace that old iron box and strip back on the cable to expose fresh insulation (not always a sure thing though).
Those old "boxes" give you no place to attach a modern fixture safely, and have absolutely no room for the wiring. They took into account that old fixtures had huge canopies that would contain the wiring.


Building a 1 layer thick brick wall over drywall

Assuming the bricks would be adequately supported from below, you would use brick ties (attached to wall studs on one end, and embedded in mortar on the other) to give your brick wall vertical stability.

If you want the look of brick wall with less effort, you can just install brick-look tiles on a suitable backer board onto your existing wall.


I removed two three-way electrical switches; they don’t work now

Notice one of the screws is black? The other two are brass.

Get a 5-pack of colored electrical tape and mark both of the wires to the brass screws with yellow  tape.  Those are travelers and they go to the same place, in the same cable, and are interchangeable (no need to tell them from each other).

This makes 3-ways a lot easier to deal with.

Also, hook the wires around the screws, they are far more reliable than backstabs. For one thing you can see if they are engaged properly.


Literature on effect of frequent switching on-off of air conditioner on compressor

My first question is, why are you asking about frequent cycling of the compressor. Do you have a problem with your A/C unit or some great idea you want to try? Frequent cycling of the compressor will drastically shorten it's life. If this is happening with your unit I would have a "hard start kit" installed on your unit along with a short cycle timer. Unless you know how to do this yourself, Call an HVAC person to have these items installed. When I installed HVAC systems I always priced these 2 items into the job and educated the customer as to why I installed them.


How long can I leave a paint brush and roller sleeve submerged in water without damaging them?

The way I've done this is not using water, instead take the roller or brush and put in a big ziplock bag and stick in the fridge. yes it may look gross in there but it won't be a problem to return to continue painting. It won't be able to dry as much. Certainily it won't dry out. Seems like my wife left one in there for a couple days to return AND multiple times too.


What are the differences among "TSP" cleaners?

TSP stands for tri sodium phosphate . Anything not containing a lot of phosphate is not TSP ,so it can be anything. I would guess some kind of detergent. Detergents formerly contained significant amounts of TSP but now it is politically incorrect . So I get TSP and add a spoonful to the dishwasher for each load . It is also very useful as fertilizer in the yard but watch your pH level. My soil happens to be very acidic so TSP is a win-win fertilizer in my yard.


Light fixture, power source and range vent fan & light wired together?

The green wire nut with the hole in the tip is normal.  Green wire nuts are the same size as red, except they have a hole in the tip.  That's why they're color coded green, to tell you that.  And they're for exactly that use.

All ground wires should be connected to each other, and also to any appliances or devices and also the metal box if metal.

The switch is what's called a switch loop.  It's an older style one with /2 cable (black, white) and no red.   In a switch loop, the white wire should be used as always-hot and tied in with the blacks.  The white wire is chosen to be always-hot so it's more obvious when you're checking it with a voltage tester.   It should also be marked with tape to indicate the white wire is a hot, this step is often overlooked.

It sounds like the other cables in the box carry onward power to other devices, e.g. the hood.

It would help to have photos of what is going on in those boxes.


How can I connect a smart switch lead wire to a screw eye loop from the old switch?

This loop method was a "trick" that was used in the past (and by some old-timers today, probably), but it's not something that an electrician would do now.  The solution is to cut that bare loop so its two wires and then bundle those two with the third wire from the new switch.  Because the wire is twisted, it's best to just cut off the looped section of wire and re-strip a fresh, clean section of wire before bundling them together.  Trying to straighten the loop could cause the wire to break off when tightening the wire nut on the bundle.

Oh, and be sure the power is off at the fuse/breaker before doing this, of course.


Where can I find replacement double action hinges for an old, heavy door?

Van Dyke's Restorers has lots of options, a little pricey but sometimes it is the only source


How to cover the crevice between some laminate and molding

Small gaps like that are often filled with white painters caulk. Be sure that it is paintable. Get the small tube (not the caulk gun size). Cut the nozzle size to small.

It can be squeezed into the gap and carefully wiped off the laminate with a damp paper towel.


That depends on a couple of things the first being is it real wood or laminate? The second is are the closets in the same room as your plan on doing the new flooring? If the closets are to be in the same room I assume they will most likely have the same flooring. If this is true it would be easiest to get the floor in first and then proceed to do the closet(s).

Does the closet have a door? Or is it a walk in closet?

Edit based on reach in closet:
Most of the time reach in closets don't touch the floor but sometimes have about a half inch base that rests on the floor. Based on what you have told me the closets would have the same floor as every where else and shouldn't be a problem. Good luck!


What vent type and configuration does my furnace use?

You know which way your filter is installed, right? You'd need to in order to change it. That tells you flow direction. So does the air come out of your furnace at the top or bottom?
Most are upflow, and I suspect the same here. The lower panel covers the fan and fan motor, which drives air up through the heat exchanger and out the top. Sound right?
Be aware that modern furnaces tend to be more complex than those from the era you're replacing, and as such can require more knowledge to set up and tune for your duct system. Also, most are going to be direct-vent types that need different exhaust venting than what you have now. You may want to employ an HVAC technician for this project.


How many studs do I need for ~60 lbs TV + soundbar

With proper anchors 3 studs are fine. One #10 wood screw penetrated 1" into cedar (the least quality of commercial lumber) will resist pull out of about 90 lbs, into most typical framing studs (with a specific gravity greater than 0.45) will hold 150 lbs.


Where would my cable modem go based on this structured media enclosure's components?

All this "glorified medicine cabinet" talk is a little bit uncalled for. These are actually called "Structured Media Enclosures" by the manufacturers, and for many (most or virtually all) home networking and video distribution installations they're adequate. They do come in different sizes, too.

And, you get your own Ethernet punchdown blocks and install them in the cabinet.

If your cable modem and your ethernet switch are wall-mountable, then you can mount them directly to the back of the cabinet. That's one of the purposes of all those handy little holes in the walls of the cabinet.

Here's a picture from Leviton of one of these things populated with more gear. The item labeled #9 in the photo is an Arris (Motorola) cable modem.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/SectionDisplay.jsp?section=37730
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/SectionDisplay.jsp?section=55914&minisite=10251

Now, having said all that, the picture of the panel I included here is about as crowded as I'd want one to be, and I would worry a little bit about heat buildup. Although none of the devices pictured use enough power to require active cooling.

Also, there's no way I'd put my WiFi access point in a metal box, unless I was mounting it in a sensitive location or exposed to the elements and I had it connected to an external antenna outside the metal box. In the house, I'd run Ethernet cable to one or two appropriate spots on the ceiling and mount the right kind of PoE access point there. Perhaps two of them in different parts of the  house.

The housing of a 16-port switch won't fit in this box, and the heat buildup from many 16-port switches would be too much for such a small enclosure, although a couple of low power 8-port switches clearly will work.

Personally, if I were building a new house, I'd install the biggest enclosure I could get my hands on, or more likely, I'd just build an actual closet with a 19" rack and an exhaust vent I could attach a thermostat-controlled fan to, and pull all the cables to that point.


Major issues fitting new drain to bathroom sink

WTF is right! So the uneven sink drain is caused by porcelain chunks? If so they can be smoothed or leveled with a stone bit chucked into a drill. I'm unsure why the drain manufacturer doesn't want putty used with the drain? Putty is a neutral and mild sealer with no abrasive nor corrosive properties. Unless they give a specific reason for not using it, I would suggest it is your only option to make the new drain work. Perhaps that is what the white ring in photo #2 is for; an attempt to smooth and level the uneven drain opening. If it is solid it's epoxy. I see clear silicone in the photos; this must have given someone a headache in the past .


Generally we would go over 200A for a single family dwelling unless the house is over 3000 sq/ft, and even then we would run a calculation to see if a larger one is needed. When we see an addition to an existing building the code allows us to take the peak load of the existing building then add 25% to it then add the additional power you are installing in the new addition.

Now, where can you get your peak loads? If you look through your power bill for a year (2016). Somewhere in that mess they will give you the peak winter and peak summer usage, use the highest peak. Or you can call your utility company and they usually have that information available. It will be given to you in KVA or KW so you take that figure and divide it by .24 and that will give you you peak amperage for that year. If it is somewhere around 140A you need to consider upgrading your service before adding your garage.

If what I just said is confusing. You need to at least get some electrical professional to assist you with it.


Intake blockage on hot water heater - shuts off

I have no problem with the ABS.  If you have  a screen in the outlet of the pipe take it out.  You can put it back in as the temperature moderates if you want.  How long is the run and how many elbows?  What is the age of the water heater.  Sounds like you are not getting enough air flow, movement of air is too slow. Too tight of elbows can also cause this problem.


What is a good rule of thumb for distance between support studs in a banquette seat?

With 3/4" plywood you won't need crossbars for a span of up to about 24" (similar to a typical new home's subfloor arrangement). Beyond that it may start to get bouncy.

In the bizarre case where you'd have a very deep seat, you'd want crossbars at 16-24" intervals.


Do wall-mounted door stoppers with embedded springs provide any advantages over versions without a spring inside them?

The difference I have noticed is the spring models are less likely to be pulled from the wall if they are hit by a stray ankle or vacuum cleaner. They will just deflect out of the way and return to the normal position. A disadvantage is some cats find it makes a great toy and will strum the spring for hours.


What is the cabinet covering a range hood called?

This is an arched valance with a mantel hood above it. For example:

http://www.castlewood.com/avmantelhood.html


White spirit and wire wool to remove paint traces from wood

My personal suggestion is a wire wheel or nylox brush on a drill or similar. It seems to me the bristles might work some of this out where sandpaper attacks the highest points. Bristles tend to flex and work into lower points almost equally with high points.


How often do I need to replace the home water pressure regulator?

Age matters because the unit has springs inside and the springs can lose tension over time, also your seals can fail.

All of that said - you can take the 5 years thing with a BIG grain of salt. People say the same kinds of things about torsion springs on a garage door. Usage Matters.

With a faucet open OF COURSE your water pressure is going to drop - hey you have running water - the water follows the path of least resistance - it is not running into your gauge any more - but into the drain.

What you are seeing is normal pressure drop with an open faucet. You probably should lower your pressure a little as 85PSI is probably at the high end.

Here is a video on adjusting the water pressure.


Why is it a good idea to finish sanding a hardwood floor with a fine grit?

Finishing with a low grit sandpaper like 40 grit or 60 grit will leave too many scratches on the floor, making it rough. When you apply stain and finish, these scratches will actually be visible. Use the 40 grit and 60 grit for surfacing, then finish with 100 grit or 120 grit. Especially with stain, which will pick up on scratches, you don't want to skip the final sanding. It should be less visible if only finishing with a polyurethane, but is still an important part of doing a job properly.


How to reglue stickers that came off laptop?

You want something 'gummy' rather than hard.
'Superglue' is a hard result, easy to crack away if there's any movement in the finished joint; poor for mis-matched surface types like a thin flexible sticker on a hard substrate.
In contrast anything 'gummy' will retain flexibility & is less likely to release with movement.
A generic contact adhesive will probably be the best bet. The old standard for this [at least in the UK] is Evo Stik. Apply to both faces separately. Allow 10 minutes for it to become almost dry, then join the faces. Be careful with alignment, you don't get two chances. Apply even pressure for a few minutes, then leave at room temperature for 4 to 24 hours to fully cure.


Continue with Back Wire on GFCI when the wire keeps coming out?

I'd have to suspect that you are perhaps not always getting the part where the wire actually ends up between the plates right - to Quote @shirlocks answer "Just be sure to tip the device so the grab plates open before inserting the wires." If the wires are in the right place and the screws are tight THIS flavor of back wiring is VERY secure (as distinct from the push in springloaded that I will never use.)

It is generally advantageous to prebend the wires a bit before stuffing into the box, but there's no way the wires should come out if they are clamped correctly.

If the wire is not between the plates (so it's sitting outside them) it's not going to be clamped very well at all. Grab one, (out of the circuit) and look at it carefully under good light with the screws open as you move it around, and you should be able to see what's going on there, and have a better idea of what to look for when putting the wires in.


What is the best way to remove dried egg from a house?

Step 1: A pressure washer, done as quickly as possible. They are not expensive, going for about $100 for a basic one that will probably be adequate.

Step 2: A camera system, motion activated, to catch the miscreants when they return. Take them to court.

Step 3: Relax.


How do I Clean and Seal Laminate floors?

Laminate flooring is not made to be sealed after installation.  The floors are made with a protective coating that make them durable.  Typically they have a good warranty on them.  The only problem I had was gaps.  My floor was not level and when the seasons changed I would get gaps.  I finally solved that from another post on the site.


If this is outdoors and possibly underground, understand that there are two types of hard copper pipe (as opposed to soft tubing); type L and type M. Both have the same external diameter so they both use the same fittings, but type M has thinner walls. It is for use where the pipe is going to be somewhat protected, as inside of a stud wall in a building. Type L has thicker walls so the inside diameter is slightly smaller, but it is much more resistant to accidental puncture and will last longer in terms of corrosion when in direct contact with soil. Some jurisdictions require that you use type L outdoors, so it's just better to go that way.


How do I mount a ceiling box in 4" thick ceiling?

I agree with answer #1 with the following exception:  Do not use longer screws to attach the fixture.  Find a suitable box with extensions as needed to make the box opening flush with the ceiling surface.  You do not want a gap between the box and fixture the could allow heat and spark from a fault in the box to escape. Here are products that I would use in your situation.  These may not be available at home improvement store but are available at electrical suppliers who service contractors.

For support between studs -- Erico/Caddy TSGB24 or simply use a 2x4
Box attached to support --4" octogon box
Two extension boxes as need to bring opening flush -- 4" octogon extension box 2 1/8" deep

This combination gives you a box 5 3/4" deep.  Adjust the support on the attic studs to make this flush with ceiling.

Remember that it is important to not leave a gap that could cause a smoldering fire in the voids of the ceiling structure.  This is the reason that most electrical codes require that box faces be flush with the finished surface.


What type of anchor should I use for ceiling hook for ceiling fan?

I would not attempt to hang a ceiling fan with an anchor. It would be much better if you located a ceiling joist and screwed directly into it.


What size timber beams do we need to span our ceiling/floor system?

This question is a bit on (or over) the edge of what's sensible to ask here. Even those who might be structural engineers (I'm not) can't do your structural engineering over the internet. People get hurt when buildings fall down.

Hopefully you have some big trees available.

Running it through a basic wood beam calculator (DAGS, which will keep any links from getting old), the 20 ft span on 30" spacing will need to be at least 4x16, and if you are sawing (or hewing) it yourself you're going to have to learn to grade your lumber for beams (a knot or split in the wrong place can make a much larger beam unsuitable for the load, depending where it is on the beam.) Or you do what the old-time old builders of your old oak log home would have more likely have done, and put two posts in the room supporting a central beam, rather than trying to span 20 feet. Few barns even had spans over 12 feet...

If you mean "tulip poplar" AKA tuliptree (wood tends to be greenish), it might be usable. It's a somewhat respectable wood. White poplar (young bark can be greenish, but the wood is dead white) aka cottonwood aka popple -  I believe is generally considered unsuitable for beams - it's a lovely soft white wood to carve, you can cut wall panels from it, but it's weak as can be. Pine or oak are both fine.


Do I need to attach a wire fished through a ceiling?

Yes:

  NEC 2011 334.30(B): Unsupported cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable:

  (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable.

  (2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4½ ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece of electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are within an accessible ceiling.

Otherwise the rest of 334.30 applies:

  NEC 2011 334.30: Securing and supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4½ ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting. Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge.

  Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceways shall not be required to be secured within the raceway.

  (A) Horizontal Runs Through Holes and Notches. In other than vertical runs, cables installed in accordance with 300.4 shall be considered to be supported and secured where such support does not exceed 1.4-m (4½-ft) intervals and the nonmetallic-sheathed cable is securely fastened in place by an approved means within 300 mm (12 in.) of each box, conduit body, or other nonmetallic-sheathed cable termination.

  Informational Note: See 314.17(C) for support where non-metallic boxes are used.

  (B) [given above]

  (C) Wiring Device Without a Separate Outlet Box. […]


Will prefinished Maple flooring yellow with age?

Yes, it will discolor over time.

I have prefinished maple flooring in my living room with an area rug on it. I also have one window that is single pane without low-e. The sun has shined in (direct light over about 12 years) and discolored the floor around the area rug. Now, I can’t move the rug or it will show the “discoloration”.

I’d be careful if there is direct sunlight.


How can I insulate the door to my attic?

Well, if there's a lack of insulation under the plywood floors, taking up the plywood, insulating, and replacing the plywood would be the correct method.
If there's insulation there but it's inadequate, that's a different issue.
Hard to know about door insulation without any idea what sort of door you have. If it's a trap door you can probably put some insulation over the top of it in some way, but the way will depend on how it opens/operates.


Why isn't door casing mitered to meet base trim?

The issue is that normally, moldings around a door are very different from baseboard molding. You can easily bevel two identical moldings together; you can't do the same if the profiles are different.

Of course, this begs the question: why are door moldings different from baseboard moldings? Well, mainly tradition; that's the way it's usually been. Lee Sam's answer that "doors are in the wall and baseboards are on the wall" is probably as good as you'll get.


Ceiling drywall separating from trim sign of bigger issues or bad installation?

I don't see anything concerning here.  Built in 2008 there has been some settling and a number of annual cycles that cause wood to shrink/swell.
I'd do nothing at my house but if this troubles you some interior caulk applied along the border would cover this up.
This all assume that the moulding is still firmly attached.  Check that it's not loosened up over time and re-fasten it if necessary.


Is my AFCI outlet to blame for a trip when continuing a circuit outdoors due to moisture?

Is this an AFCI outlet or a GFCI outlet? GFCI is more common for outlets. AFCI is normally (but not exclusively) at the breaker. GFCI can be either at the breaker or at an outlet. Either way, the device protects all devices following it (if wired correctly).
My hunch here is that this is a GFCI outlet. While moisture, in theory, could lead to tripping an AFCI device, that is not the normal design. But that is the normal design for GFCI: a little moisture in the wrong place lets some current leak to ground and the GFCI detects that and trips to keep someone from getting zapped.
In most cases, GFCI isnot required for lighting, even if there are receptacles on the same circuit that require GFCI protection. That being said, when you know there is a problem, it makes sense to fix it rather than simply bypass the GFCI for the lighting part of the circuit. Since the boxes look pretty clean, that leaves three likely culprits:

Moisture getting into a light fixture. This can certainly happen - there are holes in the box in the picture. If you test with a basic fixture and the problem does not happen initially, but does happen after you put everything together and let it sit for a day (accumulating drips), then that sounds like a moisture problem. If you have a moisture problem, I would (a) see if you can replace (or properly close the holes in) the box so that moisture can't get in.
Faulty fixture. If you install the fixture on a dry day and the GFCI still trips as soon as you turn on the switch, you may have a bad fixture, the type of problem GFCI is actually designed to catch. That can be due to insulation breakdown in the fixture, a pinched wire or a number of other problems. Replacing the fixture is the solution.
Crossed Neutrals. This is a tougher problem to figure out. This should never happen, but it does. A typical case is if you have a bunch of switches in one box that includes multiple circuits (breakers). If the neutrals aren't kept matched to their hot & switched hot wires, things will likely work fine until you install GFCI. And then they won't work at all.


Will blown in insulation help in this situation?

I'd blow cellulose into the 10' space, from above.  I'd worry about moisture and rodent problems with cellulose between the old tar & gravel and the rafters.  The tar & gravel makes for a moisture barrier you don't really want.

Check your venting in this attic space, and consider a humidity controlled fan.
You probably have K&T wiring in the 10' space, if so see https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/20279/5960


First & foremost you need a Freestanding Tub Drain Kit, no regular piping will work. These drains are extremely tight 90's & will leave space above the floor.

-

-

-

Then, you need either a trap in the floor of the drain you have available in the area where you want the tub. If there's no trap & you'd rather not rip up the floor. Then, you can put the tub on a platform for just the tub or for that whole side of the bathroom. This can also allow you to face the tub in your preferred position.


I'd call it a cross-bored stud with retaining thumbscrew, but there's nothing official about that.

As has been stated, it's probably a proprietary part and you likely won't find a drop-in replacement. You could fabricate one from a standard stud if you have machine tools available.


How to wire ceiling speakers where each pair of speakers has only two wires total

You should put a meter on them and check the impedance. You could also pull a pair of speakers to see how they are wired.

Ceiling speakers are not an "audiophile stereo sound" setup, typically - they are designed to cover a large area so you can hear the sound all over the house (or area they cover.)

Two typical (hardly the only) ways you might get what you have are a pair of 4 ohm speakers wired in series to make 8 ohms, or a pair of 16 ohm speakers wired in parallel to make 8 ohms again, since many things like 8 ohms for speakers. At work I have a pair of 8's wired in series to make 16 on a system that is exposed to abuse, in an effort to help the speakers survive the abuse...

Other things you might see (particularly in ceiling speakers) would be a transformer and tap (reconnectable wire) on each speaker intended for a "70 volt" speaker distribution amplifier.


Can I match new to existing polyurethane floor finish?

I hope I'm understanding your question correctly. You have varnish pulled off your floorboards from tape, right?

You can apply a finish that will look reasonably decent. It isn't likely to be a perfect match. Try to match the sheen. Also try to match the formulation of the original varnish (oil/poly). I wouldn't sand the raw wood, but I would lightly scuff the adjacent varnish with 220 grit to give the edges something to grip.

Sand very lightly between coats and use a tack cloth to pick up dust.

You might do a small test area to see if the color matches, and tint the varnish if needed.


At what height should a stair handrail be?

The standard is usually 34" to 38". Check your local building codes - apparently some cities specify exactly 36".

The International Residential Code covers just about everything you could want to know about stair standards.


14/3 to run a small 1650 watt Charbroil electric patio pedestal grill

Most consumer appliances are made to plug into a standard 15A outlet.  Your wire (14/2) and breaker (15A) are both suited for this, and your grill uses (1650w / 120v = ) 13.75 Amps.  That all checks out.

GFCI outlets are required in exterior/wet locations, and a weather proof box is a good idea, so you have the right plan there as well.

I think the only other thing you didn't mention is how you are going to run the wire.  If it's outside, run it in the appropriate conduit and use the correct connectors (may depend on exactly how you need to run the wire), and you will be fine.


Air conditioning: Frequent on-off of outdoor unit or stay on for long duration

In a nut shell, the cooler your home, the more your electric bill will be. You pay for your unit to run, not to start up. Sure, there is an increase in current when the unit starts up but the increase only lasts for a few seconds and there is a slight voltage drop when this occurs. It will have a very negligible affect on you bill. Scenario 1 would be your best option.


Crooked light switches in loose electrical box needs fixing

OK, Those tabs are not up against the drywall. Press the switches in hard until the tabs are against the drywall and then tighten the screws. Then get a two gang switch cover with the four screws that will aid in getting the switches lined up correctly. You can loosen the screws holding the switches to the box a bit if it helps line them up with the new cover. That cover plate you have is useless.


With lever-style taps, why is cold water only added to the mix the further up the tap is pushed?

It could be a pressure imbalance in the hot & cold lines, the valve cartridge being slightly off center, the design of the valve, or even thermal expansion or contraction within the valve. It's not uncommon for the hot/cold mix to be unbalanced at very low flow, just adjust the lever a little.


What type of string lasts in strong UV and pool environment?

Nylon and polyester are typically considered the most UV-resistant rope materials.  However, neither do particularly well with Chlorine. Polypropylene is better with Chlorine, but degrades in sunlight. It has the benefit of flotation, so it's widely used in pool applications. You may need to replace it annually.


can an indoor Transfer Switch be used on the other side of the wall as an outdoor service entrance and main panel?

The simple answer is NO.

An indoor xfer switch enclosure is rated for a dry location only. You would need a Raintight enclosure if you were to use it where it is subject to weather conditions.


What can I do about high water pressure that is causing a leak?

If you are on a municipal system and have pressure that high, you quite likely already have a pressure reducing valve (PRV) installed near your water meter. The International Plumbing Code requires PRVs on any water supply over 80psi. If this is the case, your PRV may just need adjustment. As they age, the spring regulating the device's operation can soften. Or it could be faulty and need repair or replacement. If you do not have one, you need to have one installed.

If you are on your own well with a pressure tank, the pressure switch controlling pump off operation needs adjustment. Other types of systems should have similar arrangements to control pressure.

How to adjust a PRV. There is typically a bell shaped housing with an adjustment screw and lock nut on top. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster counter clockwise a small amount. The adjustment can be rather sensitive. Operate the faucets and toilets in your house to allow the system to equalize to the new pressure setting. Take a new pressure reading. How much it changed will give you an idea how much more adjustment is needed. Typical water system pressures should be somewhere in the 40-60 psi range. Shoot for the high 50's.

If the PRV controls supply to a fire sprinkler system (it normally shouldn't), you will need to check with a fire supression professional to determine if and how much you can reduce the supply pressure.

If you do need a new PRV, check with your municipality, they sometimes offer rebates to help mitigate some of the cost.


Why is PEX not able to be installed in a three story house

The Building Codes require different electrical and plumbing beginning with 3 stories above grade. Many multifamily dwellings in the past decades skirted this code by building the first story half in the ground and two stories after that. There are not very many three story residences but apparently the one you are buying is one of them.

  and is there more risk of CPVC developing problems than PEX or copper?

No, CPVC has been used for decades and is a reliable and cheaper alternative to copper and as reliable and cost effective as PEX.

Rest easy and enjoy your new home!


Surface-mounted Electric Circuit (conduit) - do I need a junction box

All you need is a box with enough space. Using a box that you actually need anyway and sizing it to have adequate room for the wires and devices is both simpler and less expensive, generally.

I also don't see a point to removing the existing GFCI - just run everything new off its load terminals, you'll not regret having an outlet there at some point in the future. Put a box extension ring on it to bring it out for ease of conduit connection, if you like. There's no need to add any more GFCIs to the circuit - if you have another circuit, sure, but if a GFCI is the first thing on a circuit, and everything else is on its load terminals, everything is GFCI protected, at no extra expense.

The three gang has (countable) 3 hots, 3 neutrals, 1 ground (or 0 ground, depending on your conduit), 3 yokes (that count for 6 wires) If you are actually using conduit, yay, no clamps to count.

12 or 13 wires to count (wires that don't leave the box are free - not counted) presuming 20A circuit and 12 Ga wire, 2.25 cubic inches per "count", minimum volume 27 or 29.25 cubic inches depending if you have ground wires (all of which count as one, none of which are needed with metallic conduit such as EMT.) You can always go bigger if you want more space to work in, but it costs more, usually.

Scanning a few 3-gang boxes, even 2-1/2 inch depth ones have more than plenty of space for this use. 3-1/2 inch depth ones are even more generous.


Scrimping now will hit you in the pocketbook far harder later on

Your problem is that you're so focused on pinching pennies right now that you don't realize just how much undoing and redoing your work later when you inevitably run out of room (either amps or spaces) will cost you.  Most of the cost in running power to an outbuilding is in trenching, so it's far better to spend a little extra on materials now so that you room for expansion later than it is to back yourself into the proverbial corner now.

First off, direct bury cable is never a good deal in the long run, as you have to dig it up if you want more power at the shed down the road, and that's terribly expensive.  It's far better to put in a pair of Schedule 80 PVC conduits now, one 1.5" or 2" for power and another 1" for future telephone or data service, so that you'll only ever have to trench to the shed once for this sort of thing, no matter what you want there for electricity, networking, and so on.  Furthermore, you don't need to trench quite as deep if you put conduit in -- 21-22" for PVC conduit, vs the about 25" deep trench you'll need to get 24" of cover over a direct buried cable.

Inside that conduit, by the way, you won't be pulling any cables either.  Instead, you will be pulling individual THHN/THWN wires inside that conduit: 4 10AWG stranded wires (black, black or red, white, green or bare) will suffice for now, and the fat conduit both makes for an easy pull now, compared to wrestling a 10/3 UF alligator down the conduit, and gives you plenty of room to expand later on.

You don't have the space you think you do!

Furthermore, your subpanel is far too small to provide any useful expansion room for your shed, especially if you wind up wanting 240V tools there in the future.  This is partially because you're not accounting for the need to have a two-pole breaker in the subpanel to serve as a local shutoff means, something your panel requires you to provide yourself in this application, and partially because 240V stuff gobbles spaces twice as fast as normal.  So, given that you're looking at $40 for the panel you specified (the $20 you spent on it already, as well as $15 for a 2-pole, 60A breaker and retainer kit to serve as a main disconnect at the shop, and another $5 for the PK7GTA ground bar you'll need), and going to a larger panel with a built-in main breaker (so no retainer kit) costs less than $100 more, including the larger accessory ground bar (for a HOM3060M200PC with a PK23GTA), I would simply return the panel you bought and pick up a much larger one.  At minimum, I would use a 24-space, 100A or 125A, main breaker panel with this; you could even use a 200A panel here, if you would prefer to do so or wanted more spaces than are available in 100 or 125A.

Getting grounded

Another thing you're missing is the grounding here.  You'll need to run a 4-wire feeder (2 hots, a neutral, and a ground) to the subpanel, and fit an accessory ground bar kit to it as well as ensuring the green bonding screw is removed from the panel.  With that done, you'll then need to run some #6 bare copper from the shed subpanel's grounding bus to a pair of 8' ground rods driven 8' apart, using an Arlington GC50 or equivalent to bring the grounding electrode conductor out of the panel.  This is because the ground wire in the feeder provides a path for wayward utility electricity to get back to the utility (really, the transformer on the pole), while the ground rods provide a path for wayward natural electricity (induced voltages from lightning and such) to return to nature.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

Finally, you'll want to use an inch-pound torque wrench and/or torque screwdriver to tighten the various connector setscrews to their marked specification torques.  This is required by 2017 NEC 110.14(D), as it ensures that your shed's electrical system will perform reliably for the long-haul, instead of giving you the loose lugnut!


Is PVC conduit OK above ground to hook up a Jacuzzi?

Schedule 80 will be required if exposed (above ground). Annex C of the NEC shows #8 THHN,THWN,THWN2; 3 wires in 1/2" and 5 wires in 3/4". You should be feeding the tub with a GFCI breaker.


What adhesive to use with EPDM rubber sheet roofing (shed project)

Forget about it. EPDM is too picky.
EPDM is a complex roofing product that requires a variety of fairly specialized chemicals to work together.
I have a feeling you got all excited when you saw the square foot price for just the rubber membrane. Then you researched and priced the approved glues and other kit... and found out that would quadruple the price!  And that makes rubber more expensive than shingle, and more like the cost of high performance roofs like metal.  Yeah, it's like that.  But it is a high-performance roof, if you can keep the "stupid" away.
"Stupid" is any misuse of another chemical. Tar is the #1 enemy of rubber roofs, and many roof "products" are actually made of tar even though they really work hard to dodge admitting that.
Our poor nonprofit had a new $12,000 rubber roof - should've been a 30 year roof, a welcome respite to 2 decades of roof problems.  Except one genius thought the black roof made the building too warm, and painted it silver.  With cheapie RV roof coating (you know, the $90 for 5 gallons stuff which is tar). Utterly destroyed the roof.  The rubber became brittle and parted from the (expensive) glue holding it to the OSB, started moving around, cracked, and leaked.  Voided the warranty of course.  Patching it is hopeless, more tar only makes it even worse, and proper rubber patches won't stick to the silver/tar topcoat.


If this problem just started (the furance hasn't always operated like this), then it's likely an open high limit switch.

If it's a manually resettable limit, you can try resetting it yourself.   If it's an automatic reset device, you'll probably have to replace it.


Why am I still getting icicles after blowing insulation?

I have a cape cod and the attic spaces formed by the knee walls gave me really bad ice dams and icicles.  I made sure that these spaces had route for warm air to rise and escape however they were missing soffit vents.  I added soffit vents and I haven't seen a single issue in three years.  Ventilation is definitely going to help.  You need to get that air under your roof sheathing closer to the outside temperature.


The shower water suddenly gets hotter, suddenly goes from 105 to 111F

I finally figured it out, the problem was different from what I thought. The real problem is that 3 of the 4 RP19804 I tried were defective. You could not adjust the temperature in small increments, any small change caused wild temperature swings. Putting a handle instead of a knobs helped a little, but the real answer was to keep trying valves until I found one that worked.


What are the benefits of setting electrical switches at the center of drywall seams?

It's easier to cut the drywall when the bottom of the switchbox is sticking out from the bottom of the top drywall panel.  Drywallers cut receptacle box holes with the drywall in place using a rotary tool.  It's easier to cut the hole when the panel doesn't cover the whole box.  There's not any impact to mudding, because, like you noted, you have to fill the joint flat either way.


How often should "self clean" and "allergen clean" functions be used in an air conditioner?

In lieu of any manufacture recommendations, I would suggest that you use the self-clean method whenever you notice a smell coming from the unit.  As a related tip, if you ever notice the A/C in your car smelling bad, run it on max cool and max fan for 20minutes as this kills most of the mold and bacteria that is causing the smell; my guess is that this 2hour cycle does something similar.

I'm really not sure what the allergen clean might do but maybe run if a couple times a year.

It's probably worth noting that most A/C units don't have these functions and work fine for many years; it might be more of a marketing gimmick than anything else.


How can I repair a surface chip in a bathtub?

IMHO, IME, you're going to have to replace the tub to get a truly acceptable fix.
Your description of the material suggests acrylic over fiberglass, or at least that's the most common sort of "plastic" tub these days.
There are various products that can be used to attempt repair. They are probably better than doing nothing, but the odds of getting a repair that looks "like it never happened" are, in my experience, very low.
The primary difficulties are precise color matching and getting the finish of the repair to match & blend with the finish of the rest of the tub. Bonding can also be an issue, but that's generally less of a problem (assuming reasonable attention to detail.)


How to assess the damage to the lawn mower after hitting an iron pipe?

The flywheel key is made to shear when things happen like you described. I had it happen a few times over the years. Pull the top of the motor off, remove the flywheel replace the key, and reassemble.


How can I add wiring to get my three-way switch to work properly?

That kitchen switch loop needs to be redone to meet Code

Right now, the reason you are searching in vain for a neutral for your bathroom light is because you violated NEC 404.2(C) when you wired the switch loop for the kitchen lights by capping off the red and using the white as the always-hot wire.

You need to fix this as follows (with the breaker off, of course):

Remove the black and white wires going down to the switch box from where they were connected in the kitchen light box.
Nut the black wire from the switch box with the black incoming hot from the power source and any other always-hot wires in the kitchen light box
Nut the white wire from the switch box with all the neutrals in the kitchen light box (including the white pigtail from the kitchen light fixture
Connect the red wire from the switch box with the remaining terminal on the kitchen light fixture and any other switched-hot feeds that are present in the kitchen light box

Moving onto the switch box:

Unhook the black and white wires going up to the kitchen light box from whatever they were connected to in the switch box
Connect the black wire from the kitchen light box to the black wire going off to the other switch box, and to a black pigtail going off a brass screw on the bathroom switch
Connect the red wire from the kitchen light box to the differently-colored (likely black) screw on the kitchen light -- it should be the only open screw
Connect the white wire from the kitchen light box to the white wire from the bathroom light box
And connect the black wire from the bathroom light box to the remaining brass screw on the bathroom switch

Once you're done with this, you can button things up and enjoy your new bathroom light!  (If you want advice on the mudroom receptacles, by the way, edit your question with more info and I'll incorporate fixing them up into my answer.)


You would need to patch it with small blocks of wood called a dutchman.

Cut a block of wood to roughly the same size and shape of the hole. Make sure it is slightly over sized. Then hold the block up to the hole and trace around it. After this is done, use a chisel and carefully chip out the hole to match the size of the wood patch. Don't cut through completely, leave about 1/4" of wood left inside to give support to the dutchman.

When the hole is cut to fit the dutchman, carefully apply a little glue to the opening and the wood and press it in. At this point, the patch will be sitting proud of the wood, this is normal. Once the glue has dried, take a belt sander, or a hand plane and take down the dutchman so it is level with the surface. Any cracks can then be filled with wood putty. Then you can sand and paint the trim.


Curious as to the difference in size.
Yes, the 7" brackets would be OK. You need to screw into the studs for the most secure mounting. If that's not possible, use anchors similar to the ones shown below or toggle bolts. People always say "nothing too heavy" and then a few months later, they're back on this site asking how to repair a wall that shelf brackets pulled out of. Also, never hurts to put a few small screws through the bracket up into the shelf to hole it steady.


Need the name of a small pin used as a cheap door hinge

If it's 5mm in diameter, it's a common shelf pin / shelf support.


How can I remove Ink stains from my dryer?

Depending on the ink, denatured alcohol may be able to remove the stains without causing further harm to your dryer. Isopropyl alcohol may work, but it will be less effective.

Take a rag and fold it up neatly into a square and saturate it in the alcohol. Then take another piece of rag and wrap it around the square and keep rubbing until all of the ink has been removed. The rag on the outside should be changed as soon as it becomes saturated in ink.

The denatured alcohol may also be able to remove these stains from your clothing.


How can I thoroughly blackout a bedroom window on a budget?

sheet of cardboard (or similar) cut to fit inside


Honeywell water heater gas control valve pilot won't stay lit

The device probably has more than one pilot light sensor...for safety.  The electronic one is saying OK, but a physical backup sensor may not be detecting the pilot flame.

If there is a small rod in the path of the pilot flame (the physical sensor), you might try cleaning it with a bit of emery cloth or steel wool.


Can I replace an electric smoke detector with a combined smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detector?

In our area, local codes made at least one CO detectors mandatory in all condos and rental units.  I have had to replace dozens of standard smoke detectors with combo units in hard wired/battery back-up systems.  Most every manufacturer makes a CO/Smoke unit that will plug in directly to the existing system. A hard wired replacement is far better than a stand alone battery operated unit, as it will alarm all units in the system if there is a problem.

Having the system monitored or not monitored makes absolutely no difference on how the system works inside the house. All monitored systems will work fine in the house even if the monitoring system is off.


Is there any harm in turning my water heater to off or to pilot for perhaps six months?

At least where I live, the supply charge for the first therm is roughly 20x the supply costs for the next therm.  I could be wrong, but I don't think that this will save you much money.


Fixing water ingress at mitred corner in roof fascia

Metal facia can look awesome.

For the amount of work that you are proposing you should consider a 3 part system.  A top piece with a hem hook that looks like an h that caps your roof felt.  The roof felt and top face of facia inside the bottom of the h.  A bottom piece similar idea but flipped on the x axis.  The last piece, a flat piece of metal with a female hem along each length that hooks onto the two male pieces.


How can I reduce the thickness of a board except in one narrow area?

If I had to do this, I'd just plane down the entire boards on a thickness planer, cut a 3/8" x 1" x 7' board and glue it back in the desired place.  If you don't have a thickness planer, maybe a friend does or maybe a mill shop in your area would do it very inexpensively. A 18 ga nailer with 3/4 nails could be used to hold the 1x7 in place while the glue dried, or even a bunch of small screws.
I know I'm not answering the question you asked, just suggesting an alternate approach.


How can I prevent animals from eating my wooden swingset?

Something about the wood is attracting the animals, you are going to have to find a way to make it less appealing either by taste or smell, the only other way to deal with it is to protect the wood with some sort of armor. By far the most cost-effective and quickest way to do this is to sprat the wood with something like ROPEL, rub the wood down with a bar of hand soap, or coat it with chili spray.

If you're worried about the sprays harming the wood then you'll need to seal the wood with an outdoor varnish. Really you should do this anyway as without it the wood will weather and rot much more quickly. It's possible that varnishing it will make it less attractive to the animals in the first place as it will certainly not taste good.

You're going to have to accept that you need to do something to the wood that might change the character of it to keep it from getting nibbled to bits. The sooner you do it the more of it will be left.


Thermocouple with a built in safety overtemp disc verses a standard universal T/C?

By-pass the limit switch and see if the pilot light stays on. We've replaced so many of these limits, I can't count them anymore.

A few tanks have had a service bulletin issued to replace the entire gas valve / burner assembly. We've down about 8 of these so far. The parts are free at least and have solved the issue 100% of the time.

Sometimes poor venting is the issue. Check the air intake underneath the bottom of the tank if the screen wasn't installed around the base of the tank.


What type of sander could be used for both sanding spackle and doors?

While I would be lost without a belt sander and a detail sander, for most medium to fine finishing work, I would vote for a variable speed, 6" random orbit sander, with velcro pad (as opposed to PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive).

Get one with 6 hole dust pickup for integration with a shop vac, such as..

What are the relative ad/disadvantages of random orbit sanders (some might ask)?

The 6 inch size is more powerful than the 5s and covers more area (and bridges a wider area (important for flattening walls, rather than following the the contours)).
The 6 hole sanding disks allow good dust pickup when suction is provided. I frequently don't need a dustmask for smaller jobs.
The random orbit allows for a smoother scratch pattern. Be sure to work through the grits to eliminate the sanding marks of the previous grits. For Drywall sanding I would use 80-120-150. For wood I would use one more 80-120-150-220 and maybe 50 for really rough surfaces
Also, the hook-and-loop sanding discs can be reused if desired (and not worn out).
Disadvantages are: large size for detail work. Possibly too aggressive for very light work (wood block and a sheet of fine sanding paper would be better, in that case). Heavy for overhead work.


How can I install soffit vents from the outside?

Are you planning on replacing the roof? If so, are you redecking the roof or just replacing shingles? If you're only replacing shingles then there will be little or no additional opportunity to install soffit vents. If you are redecking, make sure to use radiant barrier decking. It adds about $2 a sheet to cost and has a large impact on attic heat. No roofer will tear off and reinstall old decking.

Soffit vents vs gable vents vs whirlybirds vs vent fans will make little difference in attic temperature in Texas. I have had houses with all combinations, and no vents at all, and the effectiveness is as follows:

Soffit vents (almost no effect)
Gable vents (little effect)
Attic fan with gable vents (some effect, still easily 140+ in summer)
Turbine vents with soffit and/or gable vents

I made the mistake of replacing turbines with attic fans on one house and the temp in the attic went up!

You can definitely hire someone to install soffit vent channels, and they will come rake all of the insulation out of the way and install the channels, then move the insulation back. The impact of soffit vents will be minor though.

Honestly, if you are are not having moisture issues in your attic (i.e. you don't live in Houston) and you have a house built before 1970 in Texas with a $150 summer electric bill then you probably want to stop worrying about the attic and start looking at other systems for improvement. If you had no attic insulation then you probably have no wall insulation. Having insulation blown into the walls will have a noticeable effect. Have you replaced the windows with low-e vinyls, esp. on the south and west walls? That will also have an impact on cooling costs. After all of those, start looking at A/C upgrades, pressure testing (most utilities will do this for free or low cost). Soffit vent channels and retrofit radiant barrier will have negligible effect if you already have several ft of insulation in the attic.


What is the name of the resetting ratchet component found most often in head rests?

I've found them called "Headrest Hinge" on Amazon and Ebay.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=headrest+hinge


Is it OK to use an oversized swamp/evaporative cooler?

I personally think that it's best to buy a cooler that's a little above the rated CFM you actually need -- this will help ensure it actually cools your house to a comfortable level.

Where I live in Albuquerque, NM, I often find myself in people's houses where the performance of the evaporative cooler is quite inadequate.  It's better than nothing, but not enough airflow to really be comfortable.  Having a cooler that's a bit over spec will help to prevent this problem, especially as the system gets older and performance may deteriorate.

This often causes people to want to switch to refrigerated air, which I think is sad, because it uses SO much more energy, and an adequately-sized and well-performing evaporative cooler can do the job well for a fraction of the energy use.

That said, having one twice spec is a lot.  I think you would be alright, though, as long as you keep in mind that you may have to increase the amount of window (or other) opening to accommodate the higher flow (and your ductwork is up to it).

From http://energy.gov/energysaver/evaporative-coolers:

  Open the windows or vents on the leeward side of the house to provide 1 to 2 square feet of opening for each 1,000 cfm of cooling capacity. Experiment to find the right windows to open and the correct amount to open them. If the windows are open too far, hot air will enter. If the windows are not open far enough, humidity will build up in the home.

Also keep in mind you could always put in a smaller (lower horsepower-rated) motor in order to lower the effective CFM.


Impact driver issue: Intermittent springy/twang sound

A little late to the party, figured I would share an image I found while researching my own impact driver's issues.

I'm guessing that your "twang" isn't associated with the trigger mechanism (or you'd probably have figured that out already). The hammer mechanism has to have a spring to restore the hammer back away from the anvil, and after a lot of use I'm sure the spring can get fatigued. I'll post images of my impact driver once I pop it open and get this section exposed. In the meantime, check out this site below:

https://eztoolhub.com/ultimate-guidelines-in-repairing-a-cordless-impact-driver


Stuck drilling wood frame between floors

You could have hit a knot in the wood.
These screw tip bits might not be able to pull through without additional force, which you cannot apply with a flex bit. Try a different drill spot from the same entry point, 3 to 4in over sideways. If it were a nail or a plate you'd hit hard and possibly jam, but likely not heat-up.
I did a similar hole with a straight auger/spade: with the box low enough and a long enough bit you can hit the right angle. Remember, you can cut a hole the size of the ethernet cover (minus a margin). But maybe it's too late for that since you have one entry point and don't wish to patch the drywall.
Also, from one DIY to another I'd add: don't be afraid for patch drywall work. Start with a 4in hole saw, and keep the cut out. Lots of videos, and lots of help here.


Half wall supporting 18" overhanging counter -- can this be done?

For countertops, 3 cm is fine  but that's thin for something free-hanging. To avoid the stone breaking, the slab needs even support in a lot of places.  You don't want a long unsupported area that people will lean on or that might have something dropped on it.  You can do it with a lot of full-width supports, like Eli Iser links to in a comment.  But you need support near all of the edges and at regular intervals in between.

An easier way to accomplish that is to have the slab sit on a solid top (like 3/4" plywood), which also provides a place for fastening all of the support.  It should be as big, or almost as big, as the slab.  You can cover the edge for appearance.  That would also serve as the top surface of the half wall.

To avoid torsion forces, you need to support the free corners.  At the back wall, you can fasten a horizontal support board to the wall that the top rests on.

For the outer corner, That's a lot of weight and a lot of leverage.  I wouldn't trust hidden braces fastened to the half wall, or even the half wall attachment to the floor or the half wall framing staying square and plumb.  Use a leg that rests on the floor.  It should also be fastened to the floor, perhaps with a tie-back to the half wall.  You could even make the half wall an "L", creating a cubby hole under the overhang.  If that would eat too much of the length, you could use something like a wrought iron railing that would provide support but only consume a few inches (instead of a leg).

That will still leave a very heavy 4' span that needs support.  Put some type of brace in the middle that fastens to the half wall (ensure there's a stud in that location when the wall is built) and provides support to a point most of the way to the outside edge of the overhang.  You can avoid knee interference with a right-angle or curved brace.  But it should be something that is seriously strong and rigid, not something like the utility brackets used to put up garage shelving that sag under load.

Keep in mind that the issue isn't so much that the half wall will fall over. The issue is any part of the slab support structure sagging or twisting even a little.  If that happens, you're still holding the slab off the floor, but some part of it won't be supported.  Then it doesn't take much for the slab to break.


How can I stop high water pressure from causing leaks at the connection to my washer?

The usual remedy is to install a water-pressure regulator (aka. water-pressure–reducing valve) where the water line enters the building:

They cost about $70, and the plumber should be able to install it in less than an hour. But since you live in an apartment, this is probably something the landlord or condo management company would have to arrange.

There are also screw-in pressure regulators, commonly used with recreational vehicles:

Although I don't have any experience with them, it would probably work to use one with your washing machine. They are only ~$10, and installing it is something you can do yourself, even in an apartment.


How can I change the bulb in this light fixture?

It looks like it just pulls down, there are usually little springs that keep it in place. Like the one pictured below

Source