How can I extend a circuit so I can plug in my under cabinet lighting?

There should be no problems with extending the circuit as you suggest. Install another box where you need it, run the cable between the boxes, and hook everything up.  I'd contact the local building department, and ask them if they would consider cable run on top of cabinets to be "subject to physical damage".  I wouldn't think so, but not all jurisdictions are the same. If they say it is, then you'll simply have to use conduit to run the wiring between the boxes.

You'll also want to ask if they consider the cable "supported", by running it along the top of the cabinets.  They may tell you that you'll still have to secure the cable/conduit with staples/clamps.

Aside from those minor possible issues mentioned, I don't see any problems with extending the circuit.


Can I use old bits for a hand-powered drill in a power drill?

If they are HSS quality bits they would still be usable. Try by first drilling into wood. Then use a drop of oil and try on an aluminum block.

Old bits are of great help with wood and plastics. Rarely would they break up and damage anything as long as you take care. Wear safety goggles.

By the way...as they cost a bomb in India, I regrind broken bits and temper them again for general workshop use. With care the bits in the picture would last you a lifetime. I still use an ancient HSS 1/8 that has stood by me over the last 30 years! Hope this helps....


Where is the "labyrinth plate" of a dishwasher?

The part is the PUMP INLET PLATE.  It acts as a filter and has a tortuous path for fluid and can become clogged. It is attached to the Impeller assembly


What is the best time of year to remove bee nests?

Honey bees are different than most other kinds of bees (yellow jackets, wasps, hornets, and bumble bees): Honey bees survive in the winter by staying in their nest, consuming their honey, and huddling together to keep warm. Yellow jackets, on the other hand, have a life cycle basically of:

In the spring, the queen finds a location and starts foraging and building a nest
The first workers hatch, and continue building the nest and foraging, the queen now stays in the nest and just lays eggs. The nest gets much bigger later in the summer, as there are now many more bees.
In the late summer/early fall, new queens are hatched. After mating, they leave to hibernate for the winter (and then repeat the cycle in the spring).
The old queen and all the old workers die in the winter.

So first step is to identify honey bee or not.

If it's not a honey bee, then you have two choices. If it's not in a spot where you're likely to be stung and they're not really bothering you, you can just wait for the winter for them to die naturally. If you do want to eradicate the nest, then get a can of insecticide and use it late in the evening when most of the bees are in the nest. Spray it into any holes in the nest, and wear protective gear while you do this.

If it's a honey bee, and you do want to kill them, the best time is the evening, and may be easier in the late winter/early spring when there are fewer of them. It may take two or three tries to get them all, especially since the young larvae are protected by wax inside the honeycomb.

Source/more details: http://www.sembabees.org/toplevelpages/bees_in_wall.html

After you remove them, if they were in a wall or somewhere they shouldn't be, then you should figure out how they got in and seal up the holes so they can't get back. Don't seal up holes before they're gone, as otherwise they'll look for another way out, which may be to the inside of your house.


What is required to relocate a garbage disposal?

This project is fairly straight forward. You need to completely disassemble both sides including the in sink trims.  You will need an adjustable wrench, a large pair of pump pliers or monkey wrench, screwdriver, nothing special.  Be sure the electrical wire will reach the new disposal location, it not, you will need a j-box and some wire,  you will also need some plumber's putty to seat the drain trims.  You definitely will have to replumb the drains and traps, but you may be able to salvage a few pieces.  It's gonna take you a few hours so be prepared to spend the day without water in the kitchen.


Standard Grade and Curb Height for ADA Compliant Shower Floor

https://www.ada.gov/regs2010/2010ADAStandards/2010ADAstandards.htm

  608.7 Thresholds. Thresholds in roll-in type shower compartments shall be 1/2 inch (13 mm) high maximum in accordance with 303. In transfer type shower compartments, thresholds 1/2 inch (13 mm) high maximum shall be beveled, rounded, or vertical.

Ramps(in general) are permitted to be 1:12 (though it is recommended that they be less steep), but areas that are considered wheelchair turning, transfer, parking etc. are limited to 1:48. Nothing specific to "shower floor grade" is in there, but depending on how it's intended to be used (or intended to be ABLE to be used) you could get the 1:48 limitation applied - it's still perfectly good for drainage (1/4" per foot.) 1:12 is not particularly comfortable for normal folks, and is far more than is required for plumbing drainage.


Max sill height for windows as an escape and rescue in a group R-3 occupancy?

R-1 = hotels / motels

R-2 = apartments

R-3 = single families, duplex’s, etc. and permanent residents that are NOT R-1, R-2, or R-4

R-4 = Care facilitates of less than 5 and more than 16. (More than 16 are “I” occupancies.)

In R-3 occupancies the “maximum height from the floor shall not be more than 44 inches.”  (Remember, that’s the clear opening, NOT the sill height. The opening could be an inch or so higher than the sill.). (See ICC 1029.3.)

The opening shall be a net 5.7 square feet with the minimum height being 24” and width being 20”, except for grade floor exits shall be a minimum of 5.0 square feet. (ICC 1029.2.)


OK, first of all it is probably best to not get into a shouting match with the local code officials. No matter how wrong you think they are, you still need their approval. So be sure to stay civil!

Second, the question of which code version should not be up to whim. You can verify what copy of the IRC your state and local city uses by looking it up online. Many states make additional adjustments to the code, and your county or city might as well. All of this is easily verified.

Third, put down the Webster dictionary. Building codes and construction have specific meanings for many words and phrases, and a dictionary will not help you.

But to get back to your question, the answer is in the very code you cited... you just stopped reading too soon:

  IRC 2009, Chapter 3
  R310.1 Emergency escape and rescue required. Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. [...] Emergency escape and rescue openings shall open directly into a public way, or to a yard or court that opens to a public way.

So it only counts as an emergency exit if it goes directly outside. It can't go up stairs and then out a door. The side door you already have counts as an emergency exit for the ground floor, but not for the basement.

Unfortunately you have learned that if you do construction in an area of the house you are generally required to bring that portion up-to-code. If you were not doing any work in the basement, it's unlikely that the building officials would care about the exit. But if you touch it, you own it.


Can I tie a vanity sink drain into the bathtub drain?

A couple considerations:

You cannot "double trap" any fixture. To utilize the trap in the floor for your lavatory, you need to ensure that the length of the trap arm does not exceed maximum allowable distance (42" for 1 1/2" trap arm, in CA USA, I think). It looks like you are pretty close to max distance but you did not say in your question.

Also, max trap arm change of direction is 90°, but you would have two 90° bends. You AHJ might allow though if you install an accessible clean-out.


How can I cut detailed wooden monograms out of 1/4 inch plywood?

A long neck scroll saw is the animal of choice.  It uses short strokes and you match the blade type to the material.

Heres a short discussion of the types of scroll saw blades


How do i unscrew this bolt to take apart the bed frame

A pin is used through the head to unscrew. A drill bit or Allen key as large as will fit will provide enough torque to get them out unless someone used pliers on them but I don’t see any damage.

Many had decorative handles on them that after being tightened one times too many and broke.


Other Chinese manufacturers of that unit, for example Ligao, describe the meter as an output voltage meter.

The same design seems to be manufactured by various companies. Sometimes with different sockets (some Sassin units also have 2-pin sockets)


How do you remove an ASSA double cylinder deadbolt?

Without a picture it is hard to tell for sure, but the screws securing the cylinder in place may be under the latch plate on the edge of the door. Remove the 2 screws holding it in place, they should be machine screws, and that will expose 2 more larger had screws and 1 or 2 holes adjacent to the center line of the cylinders. There will be screws in those holes that keep the cylinders from spinning when the key is installed. It will be up to you to to determine what type of driver needed, it changes from lock to lock. Whether it be phillips, straight, or allen. Loosen that screw, partially insert the key so the cylinder does not turn in the keyway and the whole cylinder face should rotate out.


Does concrete sealant slow the growth of moss?

In a way it does. It's a lot like Rain-X makes water bead up on glass, masonry sealant will make the water tend to bead up and run off of brick and concrete. However, much like Rain-X, it wears out every once in a while -- probably more often in the PNW where it'll get wet all the time.

The moss grows because there's easy moisture to be found within and on top of the brick. However, the sealant won't prevent moisture that's deposited on the brick by fog / mist or dew from collecting -- all three things are common in the PNW due to the relatively high humidity. Therefore, it'll help a bit, but it's not a total or even ideal solution.

Although -- the Thompson's sealant is not the best on the market by far. Look at the Behr stuff.


Blue smoke means it's burning oil.

This could be from you overfilling the crankcase but if it is an older engine it may have been burning a little oil before the oil was added.

The key here is, was it running okay after the oil change? If the problem started afterwards it then that is the likely cause.

Most small engines like that don't have an oil pump and would have no way to get oil past the head gasket. Even automobile engines don't normally suck oil into the cylinders past the head gasket. It is more likely the piston rings and valve seals are worn so badly that they are allowing oil to pass into the cylinder. Especially if it is overfilled. Watch the first part of this video about splash lubrication. Most older lawn mowers would use this method.

Your first step should be to verify that the oil is NOT overfilled. It could be forcing it past the valves into the cylinder. Your tractor data says it takes 1.8 quarts. If you put more than that in it, then you overfilled it. Your problem could be fixed with a proper level of oil in the crankcase.

Good luck!


How to prevent mosquitoes from breeding in my swamp cooler?

BT ( bacillus thurngensis ) will kill insects . It is not a biocide so will not affect animals.It kills anything with an alkaline stomach and has no affect on anything with an acid stomach like an animal. Commonly available at garden shops.I can't imagine a problem in your system. It can be put into ponds as it does not affect fish. It can be sprayed on vegetables right up to harvest and is safe to eat. I expect you would put in the same dose as recommended for a pond of the same volume.


Would it be appropriate to sand a floor between coats of poly with a handheld orbital sander?

I had two floors to do once and between coats I used a broom with 3 bits of fine sanding paper taped to the broom head - cheap, cheerful and effective...

Also, had to punch down the floor brads (nails) so they were below the surface...

Those floors came up magic but also vacuumed after sanding to remove the dust...


Is a combined AC/Dehumidifer unit more efficient than separate units?

Actually, an AC unit is a dehumidifier by default -- so the two in one things are just advertising something that an AC unit already does.


Does NEC allow for recessed lighting to be placed in a vertical wall?

As noted by Skaperen and Longneck in comments below, NEC requires using listed devices in accordance with manufacturer instructions. So if it says for ceilings, the code requires that you only use it in a ceiling. All of the can type recessed fixtures I have seen are described by their manufacturers as ceiling fixtures (but there may be versions out there that do not have this limitation). If you proceed, you may have a code violation and you might get pushback from an inspector.

If you do decide to go ahead with this approach, you need to make sure that there is sufficient room in the wall to accommodate the unit. Most stud bays are either 3.5 or 5.5 inches deep and most fixtures are deeper than that (usually 7+ inches).

You do mention new construction units, which have braces reaching the studs. If you have the wall open, or are willing to do that, the support brackets should easily hold the unit steady (although there may be some twisting pressure on the bracket arms).

There are can fixtures specifically intended for slope ceilings. They tend to be new work versions with mounting brackets, not remodel versions with spring clips. If mounted on a wall, they may give you a downward tilt that fits your goal.

If you consider standard remodel recessed ceiling fixtures, the problem you may face is that the mounting brackets for most use spring clips to hold the unit in place.  In a ceiling mount, the weight is evenly distributed around the rim on all of the clips.  If you mount these types of units in a wall, the weight of the unit will pull down in the back, tending to push the bottom of the fixture out.

The springs may be strong enough to hold the unit flush, but you would probably have to try one on a sample of dry wall to see. The Halo brand unit talks about driving a screw through the shell to lock in the spring, and that might help. Other brands may have similar features.In sum, I don't think there is a code issue, but you may get local reaction and you need to make sure you can properly mount the unit solidly.

There trim kits that are intended to be wall wash baffles which cast light to one side (on your case, downward) that might work well. Also, smaller units, such as 3 or 4 inch versions, will weigh less and may pose less mounting problems. Also be sure that you use insulation contact versions if there is insulation in the wall that may come in contact with the shell.

You also might consider small, flush mount or recessed LED units that are significantly shallower than conventional recessed lighting. These also may not be restricted to ceiling mounting (or horizontal mounting), and may be more likely to be code compliant.


Can I build storage in front of heaters?

If the radiators are still hot you'll have to get the shut offs repaired first. The heat and the resulting drying action will raise havoc with the wood. The issue isn't so much a fire hazard as a drying hazard. The wood is going to shrink in the winter and expand in the summer. The seams and joints will split. I would also make the design so that you have access to the radiator in the event of a leak.


1 and 2 don't seem structural, because they don't go under the strong points of the truss-joists.
3 and 4 are hard to tell, you're asking me "Is this wall holding something up" I can't see from here.
I would guess probably not structual, but they don't seem to serve any other purpose.


Clearly the restriction is left of the sink in your diagram.  One more question you could consider is whether this is an installation deficiency (problem has always existed) or whether the drain was working properly at one time and the situation has become worse.

I would suggest using a video inspection camera to be certain about the location of the restriction and perhaps what is causing the restriction.  Here is a rental unit that may be available in your area.  Or here is a contractor that could provide this service.  It would be best to try to clear debris before the blockage prior to a camera inspection.


As Tester said - it's quite common.  However, local ordinances (and national) can vary, so your mileage may vary.

Also, on the subject of kitchen outlets - make sure each circuit has GFCI protection - one protected outlet being the first outlet in each circuit (do not put two GFCIs on the same circuit).

May I ask why only 2 outlets per circuit?  Seems a tad light...


How do I finish the open end of a chair rail?

You could do this as an outside corner, with just a little piece of rail.

I did this with some baseboard right beside a closet (that I didn't want to put trim around), and it turned out well. (Taking this picture also reminds me, I never did quite finish cleaning this all up).

The hardest part of doing this is cutting the edge piece so you get a perfect corner.

Cut the piece (usually there's a scarp piece around that will work). Go longer rather than shorter.
Use wood glue or a construction adhesive (like No More Nails) and a clamp to attach it, with the edges meeting. Let it sit overnight to dry.
Sand off any excess glue that came out.
If needed, sand down the back side so it's flat (if you cut it a bit too long). A couple seconds on a belt sander is perfect.

That's really all there is to it. In your case, you may want to also sand down the front corner a bit so it's smoother, rather than sharp and likely to poke someone.


Does RPM effect motor life? More than I thought it would.

"if you change an 825 motor and put in a 1075, your HP load will move from 1/6th to 1/2... with the same blade. and the noise level will go up dramatically in the unit."-vstech, HVAC Talk
"Plus you're probably going to eat a few motors in the process."-Six

Five minutes sounds about right when you ask a 1/4hp motor to give you 1/2hp.


Do I need to cut the bottom row of tiles for a shower wall to keep them level?

I do not set the bottom row first. I  start with the second row and tile on up.
I use a ledger board ( a straight furring strip or 1x2 ) at the correct height so that the bottom of the tile of the second row is slightly lower then the height of the tile that will be the first row. You need to figure out the  correct height to place your ledger board.   Make sure you do not leave to big of a space, check all around the perimeter. Use a level to mark that line so you can place your ledger board level.
Doing it this way insures that you start level, plum and true. ( because the lip of your tub is not ) Hopefully your walls in the corners are plumb and true but they frequently are not. ( make sure you do not leave a sliver of a space to fill at the corners )
The next day when the tiles are set you remove your ledger board and do the bottom row, custom cutting the bottom of each tile to match the angle of the tub lip and leaving a small gap for caulking.


Do I need to sand my new pressure-treated deck before staining it?

Jeff's comment pretty much answers the question in its entirety:

  [Pressure-treated] wood would not need to be stained for a few years. A cedar or redwood deck would also not need to be stained. Any other wood species and you would need to stain it. As far as sanding, I would only sand it if it is extremely rough. You might not want a totally smooth surface, once stained it could make it awful slippery when wet.

A note on this in addition to: presuming you mean pressure treated like Jeff says, you actually do NOT WANT and SHOULD NOT stain it. At least for a gooooooood long time.

New wood needs time to dry. The wood comes from a factory still dripping wet. Staining it would be a waste and nearly useless. As the wood dries the fibers will begin to show and the grain will present. Right now, if it is recently built, it is going to be wet. The grain will be wet too. Sanding it wont be valuable and will cost time and money.

Now, if the boards are surface dry and are splintered or rougher than you like, feel free to sand it. Follow guides for the grit to use on a floor (eg, 110). But even after this, do yourself a favor and dont stain it.


pump running little water going into tank

There could be several reasons for this to occur.  The first thing I would do is install a new pressure gauge.  From your description, even though the pump is running it does not sound like it is "primed".  If pressure is built in the pump when you pull the "prime plug" the water would be shooting out of there.  The best way to prime a jet pump is to install a ball valve where the prime plug is so you can add water here to the pump as it is running to help "prime the pump", regulate the amount of water going in, and begin to build pressure.  As the pressure on the gauge begins to rise shut off the ball valve and see if the pump begins to build pressure itself. If not continue to add water as pump is running until the gauge shows pressure building.  It would also help to do, as you did, (shut off the valve between pump and tank) until the pump builds pressure in the line. Then gradually open the valve to the pressure tank, watching the pressure gauge and trying to keep the water pressure on the higher end until the tank is full and pump shuts off.  If the pressure tank is waterlogged (No Air) the pump will have a considerably harder time to build pressure.

Jet pumps generally have a 20/40 pressure switch. Any higher pressure can cause the jet pump to work too hard to build and maintain pressure.
If there is a galvanized well tank make sure it is pressurized to 18lbs of air with a 20/40 switch. 28lbs with a 30/50 switch. This style tank has to be re-pressurized yearly.
If it has a bladder style tank make sure the air charge is the same as above.
You also need to determine if your well pump system is a single drop or double drop design. [Double Drop and Single Drop Jet Pump Well Designs][1]
Get yourself several buckets of water to aid in priming the pump.
If none of this helps you most likely have a plugged screen (call well man) or bad check valve (The check valve may be right at the pump). You can replace that yourself. The sign this is bad is after the pump builds pressure it immediately kicks on again as the check valve is allowing water to drop back down the pipe causing the pump to loose prime again.
Jet Pump Trouble shooting
How to re-pressurize a well tank

I hope this helps,

R.J. DeChene
The Water Softener Blog.com


Old cable: type of isolation and size of ground

That cable is old cloth jacketed nonmetallic cable.  I would say by the 1970's, this was no longer being installed, nonmetallic cable in the 1970's had a plastic jacket not too much different than what's used today.

The ground wire was considerably smaller on the old cloth jacketed cable, and the early plastic jacketed cable.  I see a lot of old 12-2 romex, which was white back then rather than yellow typical of 12-2 now, with a 16 gauge ground wire.  The smaller gauge of the ground wire isn't usually an issue because it's usually not normally carrying current, it's intended to just carry fault current briefly so the breaker trips (or back then, the fuse blew).  In some situations, the fault may not clear, and it's conceivable in those situations the wire could become overloaded, but that's unusual enough I don't think it's considered a major concern.

If the insulation is undisturbed, it's usually fine, but if it has deteriorated with age, it can be brittle and crumbly, so it's best left alone.  It's especially prone to deterioration if it's been subjected to a lot of heat - in attics, above light fixtures, etc.


A Hygrometer is used to test the level of Humidity. I'll bet that your levels are very high. High humidity can lead to health issues with mold groth, not to mention it can destroy your home. Things you can do:

Vent the dryer to outdoors, a big source of the problem!
Add a bathroom vent to the outdoors, not in an attic or other room! Run the fan for 30 minutes during and after the shower (timers are available).
Vent the range hood if possibly (least of all, but still a good idea).

If your levels still test high, you can add a dehumidifier or a more sophisticated HVAC solution. I keep my home @ no more than 40% relative humidity. Check your local for recommended settings.

Exhausting the air requires that the air be replaced with fresh air. This can be as simple as someone entering the house from outside to a system that replaces the air from an intake ported from outside. I'm not suggesting you need to go that far, unless your budget allows and your problem is that big. Often it is enough intake just from normal leakage from windows, doors etc., However with newer housing becoming increasingly tighter, some situations require the expensive solutions. The big negative of not having enough intake is that appliances like gas stoves, fireplaces, gas water heaters, gas furnace, etc, will starve for fresh air intake, from the negative pressure created. This will make the combustion incomplete causing deadly CO to escape into the home! So it is so very important that all homes have at least one CO detector!


How do I fix a leak in this toilet cistern inlet pipe?

That looks like standard UK 15mm copper pipe with an olive and compression fitting.

The correct term for the "washer" is an "olive". It is made from copper. If it is damaged, you will have to

buy new "15mm compression olives", they often come in a pack of 5.
cut off the old olive (you can get olive splitters to do this job)
clean up the end of the pipe with wire wool (or similar) until bright and shiny.
make sure the end is circular and undistorted for at least 1 cm
make sure there is no burr or lip at the very end (use fine grit sandpaper)
slide a new olive over the pipe (above the compression nut)
ensure the parts to be connected are clean
screw everything together

So long as everything is clean, smooth and undistorted, you don't need any plumber's gunk, gloop or PTFE tape.

Don't overtighten, if it weeps you can tighten a 16th of a turn or so.

If necessary, you can cut the pipe further down and fit an extra joint with a short length of new pipe, you might be able to use a flexible connection hose for future convenience - some of these can incorporate an isolation valve. A professional plumber would use an end-feed soldered copper joint but you can get ring-solder joints that just need heating with a blow-torch. Compression joints are easy and compact (and my preference) but you can also use push-fit connectors (HEP2O, Speedfit, etc) so long as they say they are OK for copper as well as plastic pipe.


Sounds like concrete?

A standard impact hammer drill will generally struggle and definitely not with HSS drill bits.

You would need a rotary hammer drill with SDS masonry bit.

Then have various fastener options.

Nails would be extremely difficult, you need masonry nails, but masonry nails from a nail gun can work easily into concrete.

If not concrete one of the only other things as tough is compressed cement sheeting.

Photo of the surface might help.

Also double sided tape does not work well on certain surfaces but quality is also important. Something like 3M VHB is insanely strong.


How can I clean and paint my basement floor?

Hard to tell what that white residue is from the description. It could just be old soaps or at worse efflorescence. Try using a mixture of 2/3 water, 1/3 bleach and some TSP.  mix a small batch and test a small area. Be sure to rinse it well and see it that gets rid of it.  If it doesn't do the trick, you may have to etch the exposed concrete with mureatic  acid and rinse well before repainting.

Assuming you finally get it cleaned up, let it dry well.  Use fans, dehumidifier or ventilation to speed the process. Then I'd really recommend a good bonding primer and overcoat with a good flooring enamel.  You can use regular concrete paint if it is not a high traffic area, but I like using a strong bonding coat first.


Cause for an Amana electric dryer overheating

I have seen things like sand buildup in the bottom of the blower housing the dryer was still blowing but the flow was limited causing the dryer to take longer to dry because of low flow and they only called me when the thermal fuse blew. I tilted the dryer on its back and ended up removing about 3 cups of sand after that the dryer worked normaly


Is there a simple way that does not involve adding more end to end wires to make this a two way switching?

Honestly, smart switches are the way to do that.   I still don't understand why you want a switch on the PIR, however; it only disrupts its functionality.

So I would straight-wire right through the leftmost switch so it is bypassed.  In the right switch box, put a smart-switch "master" and control the garage lights.  Then in the leftmost switch box, fit a smart-switch "remote" that controls the master in a 2-way configuration (note that this switch does not interrupt any wires, but taps hot and neutral).

Use systems like Insteon that use powerline signaling or their own radio comms (Insteon uses both), and therefore don't fail if you change your WiFi password.  Though it is certainly OK if they also talk WiFi/phone etc.

You have to be careful controlling lights with your phone.  Code requires certain lights to be controllable via a physical switch in the usual/expected locations; this is so guests can navigate your house, and "guests" includes first responders.  Fortunately these aren't any of those locations, so you don't care about that.   However, the second impact is to resale value.  Nobody wants to buy a house where they can't control the lights.  And the smart-aleck response of "install an app" is going to cost you $1000 on their offer, because they will assume you did this a lot, and they'll have to put $1000 into an electrician to make it all normal again.


How do I install this wall mount bathroom sink?

looks like it needs bolts with very large rubber washers/gromets. even then i'd be afraid that the weight of the sink would just crack the mounting holes. the mounting holes you've got are 300mm apart, exactly as stud distance. use a stud finder.
i have a hanging sink but it came with hardware: two vertical metal straps that you attach to the studs, the metal straps lean out a bit at the top and the sink hooks onto those.


How can I adjust a whole-house ventilation bathroom exhaust timer?

Look at the vent:  take the cover off and examine it for mechanisms, part numbers, etc. that you can see without taking it apart further.  Take photos and post it.

Likewise, take the trim plate off the switches and see if there's anything interesting or whether it's just a plain switch like any other.

I installed a timer for the bathroom fan that's just a fancy switch, and it's quite obvious because it has time buttons and lights at the switch.  If your behavior is independent of the switch position it needs a power supply separate from the switch, and the switch may be wired funny even if it is a plain switch.

I'm guessing it's built into the fan unit.  IAC, it would have to accessible somewhere, not invisibly sealed up in the wall.  So "it" is probably either at one end or the other.


Trouble removing vinyl tile and underlayment from wood flooring

Sometimes it takes a village. Here's a summary of what ended up working:

The first layer of tiling came off without too much trouble by using a heavy duty paint scraper (with a slight bend to it) and a hammer. I was able to get through this in less than an hour.
The second layer was much harder. I believe @Ecnerwal was right in that it was actually a layer of older vinyl or linoleum. This ended up coming up only with the use of a heat gun and the scraper. This took 3+ hours.
The remaining glue (putty like material) responded well to hot water. I heated up a kettle and would put a small amount of hot water on the remaining material. I used the scraper and a piece of steel wool to remove the material, sometimes requiring two passes. I had a towel handing to wipe up the water and material.

I'm now looking at fir flooring in relatively good condition, minus a nasty gouge mark I made when first trying to remove the tiling by force.

Some other details for those reading:

Make sure to take precautions as there may be asbestos in your flooring. Do not assume any of my steps taken were safe.
Paint thinner, as recommended by @Ecnerwal did not have any effect
I tried using some orange-based product to remove the glue from the floor. It had a minimal effect, took longer, and was more expensive than hot water. I didn't let it sit longer than a few hours, which may have limited it effectiveness (label recommended 30 minutes to 24 hours).

This, in the end, was really backbreaking work. Whether it was worth it or not will be more obvious once I figure out how well I can repair the gouge I made.

Thanks everyone for your help with this!


New light switch has blue, black, and white wires. Wall has black, white, and ground. Can I make it work?

You'll need to run a grounded (neutral) conductor into the box. It sounds like the power is supplied to the fixture, and only a switch loop is run to the switch. You'll have to run a 3 conductor cable with ground (14/3 or 12/3), from the fixture to the switch.  If there is conduit between the fixture box and the switch box, you can simply pull an additional conductor.


What could be causing my new GFCI receptacle to keep tripping?

The washer and dryer are on the same circuit? It must be a gas dryer?

I'd think that you would want to see about splitting this out on its own circuit if you can. The drum motors in the washer or dryer could be the culprit. GFCI only requires a 0.005A difference in current between the hot and neutral legs to trip.

Your GFCI outlet might be defective or over-sensitive.

There could be a small/intermittent short to ground in your outdoor spotlight fixture? Maybe the lamp itself is defective and causing enough fluctuation to trip the GFCI.

Do you have a moisture problem in the outdoor spotlight, perhaps?


Remove broken drain in manufactured home

There is a special wrench that looks like the traditional rook chess piece (castle) It matches up with the cute cross bars that catch long hair, and the last bit of a bar of soap.


Updated How to secure electric mast to wooden siding

I do use strut channel and straps Kindof is one brand, uni strut, super strut are others that may be less expensive, I believe I usually use 3/4” steel and cut each piece 18”-20” long or what is needed to span 2 studs then lag into a stud on each side.
at 14’ (quite normal) you will have enough above the roof to justify a guy wire in the direction opposite the pole.
I do this quite often in Oregon as it is common to have a tree limb take out a feeder a little extra protection now may pay off and break the guy wire & splices verses tearing up the roof and mast.
It may be required depending on your wall and foundation heights but thought it should be mentioned.


How should I redo my patio under my deck?

Without seeing a photo of the scene I'd assume that you can put temporary legs in place. I'd install appropriate lumber at a slight angle to just outside of the patio area so that you can work on it unobstructed.

Use something like a pair of 2x6 boards screwed together in a T configuration. This should give you the strength and stiffness necessary.

Plan view:

 _________
|_________|
    | |
    | |
    | |
    |_|

Place large blocks under the posts to prevent them from sinking into the soil.
Drive large steel or lumber stakes into the ground to anchor the temporary post legs.
Anchor the tops of the posts to the beams such that they won't slip out. This could involve lapped lumber scabs screwed to the posts and the beam.
Raise the beam slightly from its original position to allow easier installation of the new posts.
Block all access to the deck while the project is underway. Check the security of the temporary posts frequently. A collapse could kill.

How you repair or replace your patio is your prerogative. That part of the question is off-topic as either too subjective or unclear, given the few details you've provided about your ultimate goal.


Purple primer left on over night: can I use it?

yes, you can use it, just re-prime it.  You'll see that the fresh coat of primer with melt right through the dried primer.


We line the ducts with “ductboard” insulation and use sound baffles. Often we’re concerned about hearing the  sound of the fan coming on or turning off. We’ll use sound baffles to block the clicking sound from traveling down the duct. However, we usually “up size” the ducts to accommodate the added “blockage” in the duct.

Also, we design the system so no two vent/grille openings are too close together without sound having to travel about 10’ - 12’ before coming out the next vent.


Identifying wood type of broken stair treads and installing new risers

The wood looks like and probably is fir or pine. This is typical in many basements and transitional areas from house to garage for example where only a short stair is needed. It's hard to tell from the pic how long those stairs are.
In any event, if you decide to replace them there are code requirements that need to be met. Although they vary somewhat by jurisdiction below is a typical configuration that I believe will meet code in most areas - but you want to check locally before you build.
If you decide to repair the steps and want to add risers you do need to make sure that you don't compromise tread depth/run to less than that required.
Additionally, you will want to maintain 1" nosing on the stairs. You can use fir for the risers or 1/2" plywood is also suitable.


Is it normal for drill bits to slip in a keyless chuck when binding in metal?

Yes. It's a common occurrence especially when I use a DeWalt keyless chuck. If the chuck is sized for 1/2 inch capacity it will happen more than 3/8 or 1/4 inch chucks (from my observations).
If I really need a driver or a bit to remain secure and the chuck to keep a solid bite I'll tighten the chuck with Channel Lock pliers or something similar. Grip the chuck with pliers and slowly press the switch until the drill is almost ready to leave your hand.
To facilitate the bit not binding just before it completes the boring task; apply lubricant just after you start the opening. It also helps to keep the bit at a 90 degree orientation (if applicable). Also drilling with the RPM's on 2 setting (fast), but intermittently pressing the trigger (goosing) will make it easier on the bit and the drill with less binding.


If it is leaking at the nut against the porcelain, then the seal inside is not sealing or the fill valve has a crack. The inside seal is where is where the water is held. Shut off the water at the valve and remove the supply line. Does it still leak? Flush the toilet to remove water, then remove the fill valve, carefully examine it, then reinstall.


How can I get a galvanized pipe that was threaded at the hardware store to screw into the fitting?

I use to run a pipe threader at Home Depot, and my cuts always fit just like the pre-threaded pipe.  Their machine could have been out of adjustment.  If the threads don't look the same as a pre-threaded pipe, and they don't fit the same, something is wrong.

For what you're doing, 1/4" of pipe thread might not provide the strength you need even though it doesn't have to be water tight.  Take it back and show them the problem.


How can I repair drywall which has bowed away from the framing?

Trimming the bottom will not create moisture issues--nearly every wall in existence has a gap at the bottom. If you're relying on drywall to handle moisture you should hang up your hammer.
Trim away, and if the drywall offends thee by refusing to lie flat, pluck it out.  Drywall is cheap and if it's behind tile anyway you can patch in as you see fit. Either cut on studs and patch it in, or cut between studs, float new backing, and screw it all together. Drywall behind tile doesn't necessarily need to be taped. If anything, use fiberglass mesh in your tile mortar.
Also, bathrooms are not boats. They needn't float. I've build and owned hundreds of bathrooms and I've never caulked baseboard. I'd rather have some airflow after a splash situation than a sealed floor that takes forever to dry. You will not keep it from leaking if you flood the room.


How to get rid of a few mosquitoes/gnats that constantly sneak in?

Beyond visual inspection to find obvious holes, you can do a blower door test to find the source of leaks. I had one done as part of an energy audit (rebate program the government was running). You should be able to find an inspector in your area that offers this service, rent the equipment, or even just rig up something yourself (since you're not really concerned with measuring the actual loss, or comparing before/after numbers, just finding the leaks).

Basically, you shut all the doors/windows in your house, and then seal up one door with a big fan blowing out, and then turn it on. You'll be able to clearly feel any drafts where there are openings in your house.

Once you identify leakage, you can determine the best way to seal it up. Caulk and expanding foam are two very good options, and weather stripping for windows and doors can work well.

Some common sources of leaks:

windows/doors
electrical outlets (in exterior walls)
vents
attic entrances
openings for pipes and wires.

Another benefit, aside from sealing out bugs, this will also increase the energy efficiency of your home and reduce your heating/cooling costs.


Is there a way I can fill cinderblocks in my basement to stop water from coming in?

Filling the cavities in cinder block will not make the wall waterproof. The cinder block material at the block webs and the mortar joints will still be permeable and allow moisture through to the inside.

If you have serious problems with moisture ingress into your basement the proper fix is take care of a number of things:

1) For most sites the proper use of rain gutters to divert roof run off is used. Also the ground surface is graded to slope it away from the foundation so that water tends to run away from the basement wall area instead of down into the ground at the wall.

2) In some instances you may need to seal the outside of the basement wall with a suitable material that keeps water from even entering the cinder blocks at all. Proper sealant selection is probably the subject of another question so will not be discussed here.

3) In the worst case, particularly when the local water table is not very deep into the ground, it is necessary to dig down all along the outside of the basement wall to along the foundation which is below the basement floor level. Drain line with water entry holes or slots gets installed in a bed of porous material such as pebble rock. This drain line is sloped from one high point of the building perimeter around to a low point where it is then piped out to a drain field away from the building. The drain field allows the collected water to enter the soil over a larger area.

If you are going to the trouble of digging for plan 2 or 3 above it is generally advisable to do both at the same time. It is also a good time to consider the installation of below grade outside wall basement insulation material.


How can I shorten barstools temporarily so I can reattach the bottom of the legs?

This sounds like a problem that's best avoided rather than solved.

I'm picturing a "classic" wooden bar stool where the legs are not vertical, but tapered out to be wider at the bottom than the top, e.g.:

This means that the legs experience a bending load when someone sits on the stool (imagine someone trying to pull the legs wider apart at the bottom).

The parts of the legs that help resist this bending load are the wood fibers around the outside (circumference) of the leg, the center of the leg doesn't do much (and doesn't need to).

If you cut the leg and re-attach with a hanger bolt or double-ended lag bolt, you've prevented the critical parts of the leg from doing their job--you've severed the outside fibers, and attached the leg only in the center. You can imagine that a leg put back together in this way wouldn't be hard to break over your knee. Therefore, it wouldn't be great in resisting the bending load that it needs to. It'd be fine as a plant stand, but I'd be sweating if Norm stopped by for a drink.

Norm http://barsbyal.com/user/cimage/c-norm-03.jpg

The only solution I can think of to retain the bending strength is some kind of a slip-fitting like you'd find on a patio umbrella or kayak paddle. By the time you're done buying and installing all the slip fittings, you'd probably be better off buying a second set of stools.


How should I mount external hardware to a Greenboard/EPS exterior wall?

NRG greenboard is 98% air and therefore only 2% polystyrene

NOTHING can be mounted TO this.  Your reel may be mounted THROUGH it to the studs behind.

    From the Greenboard handbook:

    17.1.5 Solid Blocking of Fitting and Accessories
    Consideration should be given to the installation of
    wall mounted accessories i.e. taps, electrical fittings,
    etc. It is important to allow for adequate backblocking for these items prior to the
    installation of the NRG Greenboard™.

Since this didn't happen, you have to add the blocking EXTERNALLY.

The typical 50' hose full of water is at least 15 pounds, the reel another 10 pounds and the pulling on the hose another 25 pounds or more, so you need a sturdy solution.

You would do well to distribute this across 2 studs, perhaps using 2 2x4 treated lumber.  The screws would need to be long enough to go through the boards, outer covering (I hope the house isn't only covered in greenboard), the green board and at least 1" into the stud.  Weather proof decking screws (ceramic coated for rust) would be a sturdy choice and come in 3", 3 1/2" and 4" lengths.  All screw holes should be pilot drilled and filled with an exterior caulk or an exterior silicone.

Once the support boards are mounted to the studs, the reel can be attached to the boards with the original hardware.


My house has a similar situation and when I got new gutters I inquired about option A but the guy said it would actually cause issues:

It's another clog point
It will provide shade for moss to grow and destroy the roof way faster than excess water could ever hope to achieve

If you can re-slope the gutters for option B then go for it, I don't think it would look bad. You can always paint the downspout to camouflage it or buy a pre-colored downspout which closely matches the house.
I am willing to bet you have much more pressing matters to tend to which don't involve messing with gutters that work as designed :-)


The only way to fix this properly is to run an insulated pipe from the bathroom fan to the exterior of the house. The pipe should be insulated to avoid condensation buildup on the outside of the pipe. It's mostly an issue if you have cold winters, but either way, probably good practice. The best way would probably be to run it horizontally, with a slight slope away from the fan, to an outside wall (shortest route possible).

The second best option is to run it up through your roof, which would likely be more involved as you would need to install the vent flashing properly to avoid roof leaks.

The third option, if nothing else will work, would be to run it out your soffit. They make special soffit vent caps for this. This can cause the moisture to be sucked back into your attic, which is why I would go with one the first two options.

The issue with your current setup is that you are constantly blowing large amounts of moisture into your attic, where it probably just stays. This will eventually cause issues with mold, or rotting up there. If you have cellulose insulation, that will break down from the moisture as well.

You should also ensure that there is a flap at the end of the run. Some fans have one built in as well. This keeps air from going through the pipe when the fan isn't running, but gets pushed open by the fan when it is.


The hose clamp is right out.  All you'll do is crack something -- if you're lucky, right away.

Likewise trying to inject PVC cement (705) is not a good idea.  Even if you manage to plug the leaks, the majority of the joint is compromised.   It will eventually fail, and the law practically says it will fail 2 hours after you've left for a 2 week vacation, etc. (^_^)

PVC is super easy to repair or replace, and hacksaws are cheap too.  If it's a particularly difficult section of pipe, consider installing one or two unions, to make the repair easier.

Go ahead and rebuild that section properly.


Antiseize in plumbing? Alternate screw heads and materials for screws securing washers?

Stainless will be stronger than brass , so less likely to strip. Assuming a brass stem , galvanic corrosion should not be a problem. The stainless is unlikely to gall with the brass shaft. A wrap of teflon tape/dope will help prevent sticking. I have found plain screw driver slot or Philips to be good enough but a stronger head is good if you can find it.


Hit metal piece while drilling through condo concrete ceiling

It may be a piece of rebar, usually plumbing and wiring in a multistory building will be in a electrical / plumbing chase, not in the “floor / ceiling”.  No recovery needed, I would get a shorter concrete screw it looks like you have a fairly deep hole. Those led panels are not much of a load and you should have at least 2 screws if not 4 so cut that screw down or get a shorter one.


Should I install the jumper on my new limit control?

The limit switch is a normally closed switch that opens on a temperature rise.
The fan switch is a normally open switch that closes on a temperature rise.

Think of them as 2 separate switches that are side by side in a common enclosure.

Each switch needs a power supply and each switch lets that power run through it under the proper conditions.

They both sense the same temperature inside the furnace.
So when the burner kicks on and the temperature inside the furnace rises it causes the fan to come on. But if the temperature inside the furnace gets to high (blower motor fails, blower belt breaks, filter dirty so air flow is low etc) then the Limit switch will open and cause the burner to shut off.

You need the jumper that will put 120 volts on both INPUT sides of the switches Fan/Limit control.

That way as the furnace heats up, the normally OPEN fan switch will close it's contacts to turn on the fan motor and the normally CLOSED limit contacts will remain closed to let the power through the safety circuit and only open in the event the furnace gets to hot and will cause the gas valve to close.

Now it is important to note that from your description of your issue that you have a high voltage limit control. Some furnaces use a low voltage limit control, in that case you do not use the jumper.

I just noticed that your question is 2 years old....duh me..... well I hope this helps anyone who has the same issue.


Is this in a boiler (steam or hot water heat)? Are you getting any heat in the house?

Assuming yes and yes, this can be normal operation. In a boiler, the burner heats water to a set temperature (e.g. 160F). When that temperature is reached, the burner shuts off. To actually deliver heat into your home, there is usually a circulator pump. This takes the hot water in the boiler and moves it through your radiators, which release some of the heat from the water into your home and send cooler water back to the boiler.

If your heating system can't keep up with demand, it can be because the boiler can't make enough heat, or because the radiation can't distribute it quickly enough. It sounds like your limiting factor is the radiation, which is not unusual. So even though your heat is constantly on, it is being distributed as quickly as your system can currently manage, and that is slower than the burner can produce heat. So the burner gets to take breaks.

A few options to address this:

Confirm that all radiators are hot; if some aren't, they may have their valves closed or be air-locked and need to be bled. Steam radiators may have defective air vents.
Increase your boiler's water temperature (probably not higher than 180F, though the design max temperature depends on your particular system and may be higher or lower than that)
Check that your circulator pump is working properly. Some have multiple speed settings, so you can try increasing that to increase water flow through your radiators.
Add radiators.


How do I fix this noise coming from my fridge?

It turns out it was the air damper motor and so replacing the assembly did the trick! No more noise.


What part is faulty when a pneumatic nail gun does not leak any air, is not jammed, but does not fire?

It was the trigger valve. There was no visual damage or noticeable leaking, and I took it apart and everything seemed fine. But I ordered a new trigger valve and replaced it anyway, and it fixed the problem. Hopefully this helps someone else, since there was nothing noticeably wrong with the faulty part.


Can I flush 1 toilet while the other one is being fixed?

Unless you are having other problems (e.g., sewage blockage), this should not cause a problem at all.


It is never nice to see that someone has chosen to vandalize your property. I see main options here.

Leave it alone. (Already ruled out, since you wish to deal with it.)
Remove the paint.
Paint over it.

If you do choose to remove the paint, a paint stripper is a good start. I like the citrus based ones, as they seem less toxic than the old solvent based strippers. Brush the stripper on, let it stand for the indicated time, then wash off, probably with a good stiff brush as an aid. An issue here is you will essentially end up cleaning the surface where you just worked, so this action will tend to leave a negative of painted region. The wall will be lighter in those spots, because it is cleaner. So you will then want to wash down the entire wall. A pressure washer will help, and you can get mild cleaners to help in this part.

The final choice on my list is to paint over it. A good exterior paint will cover the graffiti well enough. (Of course, a downside to paint is that once you paint that wall once, you will be forced to paint it again in the future when the paint gets old.)

An alternative to a blank white wall here is to do it as a mural if you have an artistic bent. (My wife surprised me one day with her artistic talent, when I came home to find she had painted the block wall on our house with a field of cat tail reeds under a bright yellow sun.) How about a nice field of sunflowers against a blue sky? Or, perhaps you might paint the wall to look like a brick wall, but add several fake stained glass windows on this facade?

If you do decide to paint the wall, you might still want to wash it down first to remove any crud that will prevent good paint adhesion. Give it a couple of days to dry before applying paint, especially if it is oil based paint.


Are there clips or "cotter pins" which can't get knocked out by accident?

Our lawnmower shipped with pins that look like this.

I took them off because I thought they were used because they were cheap (somebody at Sears was laughing all the way to the bank over the 1" less of spring steel rod they use per fastener.  I switched to the proper kind, the ones you show in OP.

They fell off at such a rate that I soon ran out of them, and was forced to go back to the original (here above) kind.  They have been reliable.

Hard to take off, but that appears to be the necessary compromise.


How should I hook up my WiFi thermostat given my current wiring situation?

After doing some research and physically tracing the wires, I was able to confirm that the white cable labeled "??" in the diagram was indeed going to the outside compressor unit. Hence it looks like the Blue wire was being used in place of the missing Yellow wire. As a result, my solution is to rewire the Blue to the "C" terminals on both end and then run a yellow 18 gauge wire to where the Blue one used to be connected. That way, the wires are connected as they're colored.

I'm guessing the Y terminal on the furnace is probably to control the fan speed for cooling mode, but since the A/C works now I'll leave it as a separate question.


Do I need to remove tub to fix the subfloor?

My suggestion

paint the mold with Javex and ventilate room with open window until white and dry, the. Scrape residue to hard clean surface, vacuum clean up and seal tub well.

Ensure tile grout is seal coated for moisture resistance.
Then get 2 more quotes.


New LED flood lights give off quick flash when turned off

This is probably the LED driver inside of your flood lamp enclosure discharging any charge that is left in its circuitry. I couldn't imagine this being in issue, especially is its a very short flash


Trusses are self-supporting.  So if what you're showing in the first photo is indeed the bottom span of a truss, and it's supported on both ends, then no, that is not a load bearing wall.

If there is any doubt, however, please consult with a structural engineer.


How should I fill in decorative "gashes" in wood siding?

Wow, not exactly what I'd call decorative, but whatever.  You can fill those gaps with Bondo auto body filler.  Just be sure to clean out any loose or chipped paint etc. Auto body willer actually works better than wood filler in exterior applications.


What would my bedroom wall switch control if not the ceiling fan or outlets?

If both sides of the switch test as hot with the switch in either position, I'd give odds that the switch is supposed to control a half-switched outlet. What has probably happened is that someone replaced the outlet and didn't break the tab on the hot side. The result is that the always-hot side is also feeding the switched-hot side through the unbroken tab.

[Photo from another stackexchange post]
Check the outlet boxes, looking for a dual receptacle with both black and red wires going to the hot side but an unbroken tab. Breaking off the tab should fix the problem.


How should I protect trimmed wires in a push-in connector?

Wires can sometimes be worked out of a push-in connector by twisting and pulling. If the clipped wires cannot be removed because they're too short or won't pull out then replace the whole connector with a new push-on or twist connector.

The clipped wires are sure to have relatively sharp edges somewhere. Like any paint, it's easy to get a thick coating of liquid tape on a smooth surface but it's hard to make it build a good thickness on edges.


Crack in floor tile. Replacement possible? Or prevent further damage?

I have replaced a few cracked tiles, I saved extra tile from the original installation .On my concrete floor , a chisel works best to remove old cement and grout. Any grinding make a remarkable amount of dust. However , I would not do the work to replace the tile shown. Maybe a small rug ?


Appliances don't typically "consume more than they should", but their usage can effect their consumption.  Just take your A/C as an example, if your neighbours house is set to 75, and yours 70 then you will consume more electricity all other things equal.

Some big culprits to consider:

Space heaters
Fridge/freezer
A/C
Plasma TV's
Furnace fans
Pool pumps

There are a variety of devices that allow you to measure consumption.  "Kill a Watt" is a well known consumer device but you can also use a multimeter with a clamp for measuring current.  If you want to get fancy there are all sorts of home automation systems that can also measure consumption - a web search will give you all sorts of options.


Sounds like you have a bad connection that finally burned in half from the high current draw of the shampooer and almost burned in half in another spot but was finished by the vacuum.

You need to trace the circuit(s) back to the nearest working receptacle and check the wiring from that point on to your non-working ones. Take apart your junction boxes and device boxes and check all connections for mechanical tightness and electrical continuity. Don't forget to shut off the breakers controlling these circuits before tearing into it.

Good luck!


Is a grounded (neutral) conductor required at a switch location that controls a switched receptacle used for lighting?

Code is a guide for localities to establish rules. As such, if a locale adopts the code as is, it will be up to them to enforce their rules. Now we are down to the inspector's decision as to whether you comply.

Since the switched outlet is serving functionally as a luminaire, many inspectors would probably take the view that luminaire switches need a neutral (grounded) conductor. Usually when there are two rules and one is permissive and one is restrictive, the restrictive one will apply (unless the permissive explicitly waives the restrictive).

Further, there are practical reasons to include the neutral at a switch for an outlet. Advanced switches, such as remote control devices or a proximity sensor, usually need a neutral. Obviously, devices that would compromise the outlet if used for purposes other than luminaires should be avoided. You don't want a switched outlet with a dimmer to be accidentally used for a vacuum cleaner.

Bottom line, the local inspector will probably be the last word, but I would include a neutral.


The problem is ordinary switches only switch hot, but with a second source you need to switch neutral to go to that source as well.

One possible fix is to wire up a separate inlet outside wired to one receptacle inside and move the microwave plug between the "main" receptacle and this new dedicated secondary supply when needed.


Furnace won't adjust to thermostat setting

Does the furnace shut down when the thermostat stops calling for heat (or very soon after)?
Furnace
If the furnace does not shut down when the thermostat stops calling for heat, it's a problem with the furnace. It likely won't stop immediately, but should stop fairly soon after.
Thermostat
If the thermostat does not stop calling for heat once the set point is reached, it's a problem with the thermostat. Usually there is some form of indicator on the thermostat, that lets you know when it's calling for heat.
Read the manual for the thermostat, and make sure you're programming it properly.


do I need to recalculate the volume of the box to ensure there is actually enough room?

Short answer: No

As you found out some devices are larger than others. However, the National Electrical Code doesn't distinguish between them and every yoke mounted device counts as a double volume allowance. See Article 314.

Realistically, I would use a deep device box on every device when doing new work to allow for these kinds of devices.

Good luck.


Will wood glue hold two pieces of wood with a polyurethane finish?

Bonding anything together without sanding either down to bare wood grain, or at least scuffing the finish surface prior to bonding, will be tenious at best.
Having said that, if all you are trying to do is glue them together so one for not move, the bonded material is not weight bearing or subject to vibrations....it might work for a while.

Your choice of glue, in my opinion, is designed for glueing unfinished woods together (for the woodworking craft).    Once the grain is sealed by the finish, a different type of bonding is required.

Construction adhesive or a dab of silicone might provide a better, longer lasting bond.


Is it an offence if my landlord has no GFI's in the house and outside of the house?

You will have to check your local codes, but typically an installation is considered legal if it was up to code when it was installed / built. Doing major renovations may require you to bring the work up to code, but what exactly is required is up to your local inspectors.

If you're worried about getting shocked due to moisture you can use a GFCI adapter, which does exactly the same thing as the GFCI outlets: compare the hot current with the neutral current to look for any leakage (which typically is indicative of an undesirable condition).

(Note that there are still other ways you can get shocked... the GFCI just protects against a specific category of faults.)


female thread repair: threaded inserts and hole-diameter required

For one of the best known thread repair inserts, Heli-Coils, (I've used them , not associated with them otherwise) an M6x1 insert has a maximum outside diameter of 7.95mm.
Data here.

A better repair in many cases would be to have a welder (person) with a welder (machine) plug the hole, then drill it out and retap it to the size you actually want. Of course, if the original part was under-designed and that lead to thread failure, making it the same as it was won't ensure that it won't fail again the same way. If it's thin aluminum you need to find a good/skilled welder. If the part allows, welding or gluing a nut to it may be a better fix for a too-thin design.


When to use EPS instead of XPS (aka Styrodur [TM] and Styropor [TM]) for insulation?

EPS is not suitable for soil contact. XPS is.
see (dow.com)


How to ground a switch without a ground screw?

I would not worry about adding a “wire” to the switch either the box grounded those nice bright brass yokes being connected to the metal box will be more than enough grounding (in the US it is code compliant to use this same method with some devices). Your switches look to be in exceptional condition I hope the contacts are also if so they may last another 100 years.


How to slightly enlarge a worktop hole for replacement kitchen sink

If there is adequate room at the rear of the sink, or if you worry less about centering and just do the sides and the front, a router will do the job nicely. A laminate trimmer may be a better choice on the "fit's the back of the sink" part as they have a smaller base, but they also have more limited bit size/power - still you could do it in a few passes, and they cost less to buy.

The secret to nice edges with a router is to build a fence or template - a board supported the same distance away from the desired cut as the edge of the base is from the bit. Freehanding it will tend to wander quite a bit more than following a fence. Firm control of the machine is also needed, especially when working on a narrow strip of material as you will be in this case, at least at the front.


It depends how far in. Ideally you want it less than 1/8" in. Within 1/2" drywall, that's a decent amount. If you get more than 1/4" in you run the risk of cracking the gypsum underneath and not providing the adhesion.
I don't know about a percentage. I would drive another screw nearby if you over-drive one. Leave both in.


what are pros and cons of an air handler located in cooled space?

This is the same arrangement as in all 270 houses in my tract development in Dallas TX. It is the standard arrangement. There is some insulation on the inside of the sheetmetal panels.

EDIT Given the new info that this is a heat pump it would be some benefit to put an insulated ceiling on the closet. Possibly the original heating was a gas fired furnace and the heat pump a retrofit.

EDIT2 If there is a gas fired water heater in this closet,then it is probably necessary to have an opening for combustion air or to expel heat to the attic.

EDIT3 Our closet has an insulated drywall ceiling with one small section of screening to supply combustion air from the attic to the gas fired furnace and the gas fired water heater.


Does this bracket exist to hold two tiles together?

I would just buy some 2"x 3" or 3"x3" aluminum angle and cut off 2" pieces and drill holes in each side.

You could get a lot of brackets from a long piece of angle and epoxy them to the tiles. Aluminum is soft enough to cut with hacksaw .

You could use a diamond drill bit to drill the tiles and  dill holes in the angle to attach the brackets with machine bolts.

OR

Look at these. Playwood


How to remove bulb from ceiling fan fixture

There should be little metal pressure tabs holding in place, it's just a matter of applying a little more downward force. How? Pry it around the edges, gently and carefully, with a screw driver or dinner knife, don't mar it. Or use tape like in the picture below. More information in this video


How can I locate a short in a 24V central A/C circuit?

Use a Network Cable Tester
To find short- and open-circuit conductors in any low-voltage multi conductor cable, I recommend

isolating the cable from all devices (i.e. disconnect it from the furnace/heatpump/AC and thermostat), and

using a network cable electrical tester and RJ45 breakout adapters to test it.

RJ45 Breakout Adapter
You need two of these.  One for each end of the cable.
This is one style:

Here is another:

Network Cable Electrical Tester
You need one of these 2-part devices.  They are very simple and cost about $10.

Making the Connections
Attach an adapter to each end of the cable under test (CUT).  Decide on a mapping between CUT wire colors and pins 1 to 8 marked on the adapter.  The mapping can be arbitrary, but you should use the same mapping at both ends.
Connect one part of the tester to the adapter at each end of the CUT.  Depending on the adapters and tester, you may need some short network patch cables to do this.  If you do use patch cables, make sure they are straight through and not crossover cables.
Performing the Test
To perform the test, you just switch on the tester and confirm that its lights flash according to the expected pattern.  You will need to read your tester's manual to determine the expected pattern and interpret what a deviation from that pattern means in terms of short- and open-circuits.  This video shows one of these testers in use including the flash pattern for that particular tester.
Limitations
There are, of course, limitations to this method.  Here are the ones I can think of off the top of my head:

Limited to 8 conductors at a time
will not detect shorts to ground via other cabling
can be confused by even very low voltages applied to conductors by shorts to energized circuits (although you'll probably still learn that there's something awry)


How do I attach the framing of a shorter wall to a higher wall above concrete?

As I understand your question, you do not want to run the inside wall all the way to the ceiling so that you can keep the wall space above the new knee walls. If so you will certainly want to cap the space at the top of the knee wall to leave a good grounding for a finished surface. One way that you can do this is to attach a 2x2 to the inside of the exterior wall and then bridge across from the exterior wall and the top of the knee wall. The bridging plank can be cut to width from a standard sized plank such as a 2x10 or 2x12. Installation in this manner will both support the top of your knee wall and cover the gap between the two walls.

In terms of finishing you could choose to cover this area with drywall or a nice looking board that you would finish to suit your needs.


My guess is an oiler. Air tools with moving parts want a small, but steady mist of oil in the air. With some, like an air nailer, they simply say you can add a couple of drops to the connector before you attach the hose to it. But some tools want a steady fix.

Check out this photo and description over at Amazon.com:

Keep in mind, that if you use your oiler with a hose between the oiler and the tool, that hose will now contain oil. While the hose can be used easily with any tool that can tolerate oil, you will not want to use it with any kind of spray painter since water/latex based paint and oil don't mix well.


Electrical power to a detached shop, 60 amp panel, 80 feet of wire, what size wire do I need?

If the entire run is in conduit, you need individual wires rated THWN, THWN-2, or XHHW-2.

The size of wire is 6 AWG in copper or 4 AWG in aluminum.  Either one is rated 55A but you are allowed to round up.   Also you are allowed to use bigger wire than strictly needed; if you use #3 copper or #1 aluminum you could increase amperage later to 100A.

The panel is required to have a shutoff switch because it is in an outbuilding.   The cheapest way to get a shutoff switch is use a panel with a main breaker.  The main breaker can be any size, since it's only serving as a shutoff switch.

When your subpanel has a main breaker, that means the subpanel can be any size.  We strongly recommend a significant number of spaces, many more than you immediately expect to use. Spaces are dirt cheap when you are initially installing the panel, but it is rather pricey to replace a too-small panel.  Panels with more spaces tend to be larger than 60A, but it is fine to have a 60A breaker feed a 125A subpanel.  It can't do any harm.


I believe your investigation is correct. Jute fibers hold up fairly well but are coarse, so they coat them. The powder you found is probably latex. I don’t know if I have seen many small rugs that are not coated, but some of my larger area rugs are not. It may be a size thing to keep the smaller ones from sliding or just to hide the coarse fibers maybe both.


One thing you can do is to get some weather stripping and install it so that it just comes up to the glass slider. If the glass slider is one that free hangs without a track or guide at the bottom it will be somewhat problematic to have the weather stripping actually contact the glass as it will likely just push the bottom of the door way from the wall.

Here is one style that you would mount to the inside edge of the door opening behind the slider.

Will it look ugly? Probably - but then almost anything you use to try to seal up that opening will not be pretty. Comment: Using that type of door for an environmental barrier is anything but optimum.


Is it possible to reduce internal window reflection?

There are things such as anti-reflective/anti-glare film that many storefronts, counter displays use to increase see through. It's not often used privately though.

One example is this: https://www.ssidisplays.com/anti-glare-film-window-displays/

I'd try asking somewhere they sell glass for windows-panes or whole windows.

Just remember, it's very limited how much it would work with a lighted room, at night, looking out into the dark. Try lowering the light intensity in the room a bit as well, possibly. That could be done with a bulb of lower wattage.


Can I run Cat-6 in conduit with line-level power cables?

Barring you bother to source high-voltage rated Cat5e or Cat6A, sharing a conduit with line voltage is a clear and blatant code violation. It's got nothing to do with nails. You should have put in two conduits, or three to cover the unknown next thing. Cat5e will carry full gigabit the same distance that Cat6 or 6A will.
If you are committed to a cable solution, "all dielectric" (no conductive members) fiber optic would be the best choice and code compliant.
Either type of cable needs to be wet-rated as all exterior conduits are wet by definition (and in reality.)
Your least expensive effective option would be a pair of high-quality 802.11ac point-to-point links if there is a clear line of sight from the building with networking to the gazebo.
You could also try a pair of those "powerline ethernet adapters" but I can't say I recommend them.


That is definitely what you're looking for. To be safe,trace the wires as far as you can to make sure they're not connected to anything else too. That's a strange location for one, mounted on a box to a furnace. Determine if the switch controls the transformer, that would be strange too. Make sure it's not feeding your thermostat.


Should I plug unused chimney ports in basement?

Yes. In addition to the comments listed already, as heat rises in your house it can cause more cold air and moisture to enter through the holes.


How to mix a resurfacer/leveler with sand and cement?

Roughen all areas to be resurfaced, remove any loose or unstable material. Dry mix 5 parts fine sand to 1 part portland cement. Moisten entire area to be resurfaced. Add small amounts of water, a little bit at a time, and thoroughly mix until entire batch is damp. For initial dry-pack, proper mix should hold as a clump if you squeeze together in your hand, but easily come apart if you break it up. For your resurfacing purpose, it could be a bit wetter but not liquidy. Spread out and pack firmly into area in question with a wood float, use the wood float to feather the edges of the repair into existing surface. Use a spray bottle to moisten as needed while you float it out. Screed or float out as level as you need it to be but the surface does not have to be super smooth.

Apply water-proofing membrane, then apply additional treatments (float regular cement on top of membrane then install tile?). Drypack is most often used to establish initial slope for the surface, not for applying final finish treatment to.


Since you have a straight shot at the latch because you removed the molding, use a reciprocating saw and just cut the latch. Then you can replace the lock set.


Troubleshooting bandsaw cutting at an angle (through aluminum)

Cheaper bandsaws tend to drift in the cut more, but any bandsaw can suffer from it. You can watch the line it is cutting along, and adjust to it, or you can try to resolve the problem. There are a few issues.

If you need to push the material through the cut too hard, then it tends to twist the blade. This will cause the cut to go at a angle. Why might you be pushing?

A dull blade
Thicker material than normal to cut
Impatience

Another factor is the blade tension. A bandsaw has a spring that you tighten to keep the blade under tension. Your saw will probably have instructions for how tight to make the blade. This spring can loose its ability to properly tension the blade after some time, allowing the blade to twist in the cut. Replacing the spring can thus help you to bring your saw back to optimum cutting performance. A sign that it is time to do this is if your saw tends to drift when it did not do so in the past on a similar cut, with a good blade installed.

Next, check the blade guides. If your blade guides are damaged, then they may be allowing the blade to drift off line. Most saws have a set of lower and upper guides. Some are small rolling bearings (on more expensive saws) but on a tabletop saw these are probably metal, held in place with a set screw.

The blade can actually wear the guides away from friction. The metal guides can often be reversed before they need to be replaced, but they are inexpensive to replace. You can usually find a non-metallic (slippery) replacement for those guides, which runs a bit cooler. This is good because less heat means your blade will run more cooly, so live longer before it dulls.

Finally, check the tires. Your saw has rubber (or plastic/polyurethane) tires that the blade runs on. There will be either two or three such tires. After a few years time, these tires dry out. The saw will then start to behave poorly. Those tires can be pulled from the wheels and replaced.


How to strengthen two joists that have had big sections cut out to make space for roller garage door

The wisest course of action is to consult a licensed structural engineer in your area for a remediation plan.  They can tell you where you need to add structure to resolve the issue.


Is it ok to splice wall sheathing partway up a wall?

It's very common to need to splice wall sheathing in the open, but you usually need to float blocking to secure the joint.

Cut a pile of 2x4 blocks at 22-1/4" (slightly less than the 22-1/2" that you'd see in a perfect world). Work along the wall and staple (or nail or screw) them in place to the existing sheathing, then continue upward.

Rather than cutting your sheets in half, though, see if you can tilt them into place at full height. It may help to drive some 16d nails halfway in under the bottom wall plate to act as temporary supports (I don't like to see sheathing lap onto concrete--technically it shouldn't be in contact). Or hire a neighborhood kid to lend some muscle. You'll save a ton of work.


How worried should I be about mold/mildew in my water softener tank?

This is the salt water brine tank that is used to let salt set in the water to make brine which is then flushed through the resin in the softener before being rinsed to the drain.
So a bunch of things are good to keep in mind as this is not a hazard.
Most molds, especially those which form in water are not hazardous, only a few which we might breathe the spores.
This is not what you drink directly but only what is used to reset the ion exchange.
Salt is, in itself, used to delay bacteria, as in treating meats like ham or salt pork.
The chlorine in the water used to make the brine will kill most harmful bacteria as it does in the normal water treatment.
I would suggest cleaning as a way to make it "feel" better, even though it is mostly just dirt, possibly from using less clean salt like perhaps blocks of stock salt.
Then the barrel should be topped off with salt to allow it to make brine as at the current level, the softener is not going to have enough brine to operate. To avoid doing it more often, I like to nearly fill the barrel.


Is there a reason to avoid running (water) pipes in a shared townhouse wall?

Party walls between units must provide a certain sound control. If pipes are placed in the party walls, any noise from the pipes will only have about half the sound control between the pipes and either unit.


What's the difference between BTU and CFM when comparing air conditioners?

They have almost nothing to do with each other.

BTU describes the actual cooling power.

CFM simply describes how fast it moves the working fluid (the air) through the system, and CFM does not matter for differences that small. Suppose you order water and one vendor supplies four 3-gallon jugs and the other supplies three 4-gallon jugs.  Not a difference enough to care about.

Noise has nothing to do with either one, and everything to do with the acoustics of the machine, shape and design of the blowers, and isolation of machinery.  Slightly more air volume matters little by comparison.


Put a stepped removable wooden grate on top of it, board walk.


There should be either a NEMA 10-30R, or 14-30R receptacle where your dryer will plug in.

NEMA 10-30R

NEMA 14-30R

When you purchase an electric dryer, the store should also sell you a cord for the dryer.  Most times they'll ask you which you need, or they'll just have both on hand if they're installing the dryer for you.

If the installers (or you) simply installed the wrong cord, you should just be able to replace the cord with the proper one. You'll need to install either a NEMA 10-30P 3-wire cord, or NEMA 14-30P 4-wire cord depending on which receptacle is in your home.

If for some reason the dryer requires 50 amperes, instead of 30. You'll have to replace the breaker, the wiring from the breaker to the receptacle, and the receptacle.

If there's a NEMA 10-50R, or 14-50R receptacle installed in the home on a 30 ampere circuit. You should replace the receptacle with the proper one. Receptacles and plugs are configured in different ways, to prevent things from being plugged into an undersized (incorrectly sized) circuit.


I installed non IC LED recessed lights and now need to insulate part of the ceiling before it is installed, what should I do?

What you should do is forget about using those crappy dunce caps and ensure that the fixtures are at least 1/2" away from any wood or combustible material and that insulation is removed and kept away from the fixtures, at least 3" clearance.


You can't, but no need.

If you're referring to the Tyco Electronics Romex splice kits, yes, they make those for 3-wire w/ground as well as 2-wire w/ ground.

If you mean some other splice method, you have to read its instructions for whether it is suitable in-wall.  As far as I know the Tyco is the only one that is UL-listed for buried in-wall splicing.

Further, use of in-wall splice blocks is restricted.  It can only be done for repair, not extension for instance; and even then, only as a last resort when nothing else is possible.  If it is at all feasible for you to re-run the entire cable run, or a run to an accessible point (somewhere you want a receptacle, for instance), you must do that instead.


When is it appropriate to use push in connections on typical american electrical outlets?

Code requires the wire to be 14 gauge copper when back-stabbed into a device.
People buy them because stores sell them and they're easy to install. Personally, I blame 14 AWG; I only run 12 with 20A breakers. What is a nuisance trip? ;)

What should I do with wires that are too large for back-stab terminals on a receptacles?


You might be best to just by a new one, however, one thing you could try is some plumbing tape (PTFE tape, or Teflon Tape). This tape is generally used to help seal screw connections on plumbing but could provide the extra grip between the threads needed to keep it connected.


How thick should should wood be to hold 160 to 180 pounds over a four-foot span?

Regular framing lumber will do what you need. You will not want to place a ladder on individual 2Xs that make up your scaffolding. The deflection on one 2X will feel enormous when you are on the top of a ladder. 2X4s are cool as long as there are no large knots, and you fill the area. #2 grade 2X needs to be watched for this. Don't even use #3 grade. I have seen 2X6s with 2" knots in them that would render them useless as a walk plank. All said, please be mind full of the condition of the wood used for walk planks. Since you are putting a ladder on all this, unify the surface with a sheet of plywood (1/4" will work in a pinch with a solid fill, if you spaced 2X6s, use 1/2") cut to fit within reason, 3' wide or larger will work and as long as feasible. Believe me, you will not want the ladder to find even one gap big enough for a ladder leg to slip through.


Can I install thermostatic radiator valves on a hydronic heating system?

Excess pressure?

No.  Residential circulating pumps can only produce limited head pressure.
Early pump failure?

No.  Life expectancy of residential circulating pumps is not usually affected by changes in flow.
Other concerns?

Maybe, depending on your exact layout.  Response time of wax motor thermostatic radiator valves is slow (20+ minutes) and restricted flow through partly open valves may distribute heat unpredictably where there are multiple radiators in series in a single branch (or ladder rung).  From the Taco "Hydronic Zoning Seminar - Residential and Light Commercial Applications":

  Series Loop Zoning

  While thermostatic valves can be used in a multi-zone series loop
  system, electric zone valves or circulators are a better choice for
  series loop zoning.  The reason:  the modulating characteristic of
  thermostatic valve operation can result in unbalanced heating within
  each zone.

  If thermostatic valves must be used for series loop system zoning, it
  may be necessary to balance radiation by adjusting baseboard dampers,
  or by removing radiation fins in a room that is overheating.  An
  outdoor reset control may also be required.

Also, depending on the type of boiler you have, it may have a minimum flow and heat delivery requirement.  Too few thermostatic valves open within a zone may cause the boiler to not work well.


How do I replace a Zanussi washing machine's front door seal?

A good way to establish the point of the leak is to place a piece of thick cardboard beneath the machine and give it a short run whilst empty.

The most common leaks are from the 'Sump Hose' which connects the pump to the tub and the 'Door Boot' / door seal.  Items such as 'underwires' from clothing can poke holes through them.

To get to the sump hose it is a matter of tipping the machine backwards to allow access.  Lean it against the kitchen work surface and wedge something beneath it if you are doing the job alone.  It's best to have another person to stop the machine falling forward onto you and of course for moral support and comedy observation :)  Sump hoses are normally held on with spring loaded circular clamps (hose clamps).  You'll need an adjustable wrench / mole grips or very large pliers.  These clips can be fiddly to remove but once you get the knack...etc.  Be warned : you will need a lot of sacrificial towels on the floor first and DO NOT pull off that hose if it is directly above you :D

To access the door seal it requires removing the lid.  Remove the rear bolts, slide the lid forward or backward and it will un-hook.

In some machines the door seal has a couple of large circular wire bands with tightening screws.  Some have spring loaded ones.  Others have compression bands and require a good deal of persuasion to remove (mind your fingers).

I would initially explore the door seal fully with my hands to save messing around.  9 out of 10 times the hole can be found without dis-assembling the machine yet.  The next trick is then finding out whether or not you are comfortable removing and re-fitting it (as described above).

If neither of these are causing the leak then look for rusty trails inside the machine, follow them if possible to the source.

Before you do anything - check that the inlet hoses are screwed in tight - this is also another major cause of leaks and can be solved inexpensively.


1) With only a couple exceptions (of which yours is not one of them) the National Electrical Code does not allow the paralleling of conductors less than 1/0 AWG in size. The reasons for just about everything in the Code is safety.

2) In your scenario you will have neutral current flowing on a bare equipment ground wire. Another code violation because it is very unsafe.

3) Current flowing in one direction in a cable and not in the other direction can cause electromagnetic inductive heating if passing through ferrous metal components like cable clamps, locknuts, panel knockouts, etc. (The principle used by induction cooktops) This leads to melting insulation, FIRE  and everybody dies. Not a pretty scenario. Again this is prohibited by the code for the, hopefully, obvious reasons above.

So, short answer to your unsafe proposal is NO don't do it

Run a properly sized cable. It is not worth your life or your family's lives to save a few bucks.

Good luck!


Double Pole Breakers use two hots ( 240v) AC, Electric Hot Water Tank, Stove, Dryer...
Single Pole Beakers use one hot (120v) lights, switches, outlets


Leviton Wallplate does not fit standard electrical box

You don't screw a wall plate into the J-box (with the exception of blank plates). You screw it into the device that's mounted inside the box, and that device will have standard holes at the measurements you made. So if you have a GFCI outlet in there, the GFCI will be screwed into the J-box and then the wall plate is screwed into the GFCI.


That does not appear to be correctly installed, it should lie flush with or below the sink surface.

These strainer assemblies commonly come with 2 ring-shaped washers; one rubber and one hard plastic or fiber. Both should be placed on the underside of the sink between the strainer mounting hardware and bottom sink surface. Neither are for "sealing" purposes. The rubber one is a cushion and the plastic/fiber one is a friction ring.

Make sure that there is no gasket of any sort between the upper strainer lip and the sink (it sure looks like there is...). The only thing between the strainer lip and the sink should be plumber's putty, and any excess putty squeezes out when the strainer is tightened (until flush with or below the sink surface) to the sink.

The only other possibilities are that the strainer has not been tightened completely down, or the sink (or strainer) is defective.


Since you don't particularly care about looks, all you will need to do is create a patch out of aluminum sheet metal and attach it to the siding.

Start with a sheet of aluminum. A good source from this is from a roll of drip edge. Cut a square or rectangular piece out using tin snips, and make it slightly larger than the hole. You would want to make it large enough to cover it completely, and still have room to attach it.

Once the piece is cut, you should paint it to protect it, and have it blend in with the color of your siding. It doesn't need to be an exact match, but the closer, the better.

Attach the patch to the siding using 1/8" aluminum pop-rivets. You also should use a thin bead of caulk around the hole to keep it weather tight. Once the patch is installed, you should also apply one more coat of paint to cover up the heads of the rivets.


What material to use to close a too wide wire tunnel?

Sealing around wires and cables is usually a job for Duct Seal.

I'm not sure of the availability of this outside the United States, but I imagine it or a similar product is available in most places.

Duct seal never hardens, so it can be removed, move, reshaped, and reused. It also will not react with the wire/cable in any way, which often a requirement in building and electrical codes.


Can I configure home battery power like a UPS - where it constantly self charges and auto transfers?

Yes you can, this is common in places where there are frequent power failures. When the grid is available it is used to charge or maintain batteries, and when it goes out the batteries are used to power the home.
A simplified overview of the system is as follows:

When the grid is available, the transfer switch will be set to power the loads directly from the grid, and the grid will also power a charger to keep the battery topped off:

When the grid goes down, the transfer switch shifts the loads to the inverter (quickly so there is no interruption), so now it works as follows:

When the grid recovers, the transfer switch will go back to its original state as explained beforehand, and the charger will kick in to recharge the battery.
However installing a system that provides backup power for your entire house is going to be very expensive as you need a big inverter and a huge battery bank to handle the load. It is more practical to have some essential circuits on backup power (such as lighting and some appliances), and to manage to live without those which are not essential during the brief outage (such as maybe air conditioners or water heaters).
The overview above is rather simplified, and making such a system yourself is IMO not going to work out well by just buying a transfer switch and a separate inverter and charger. What you may look into buying is something called an inverter \ charger. Magnum, Schneider, Victron, Voltronic etc. make them.
Edit:  I noticed that you mention  Blue Planet Energy, I am not familiar with them but maybe it is not just a battery and has required components already built in like a Tesla Powerwall, you should ask them about it.


How can I black out sunlight BEHIND my condo's windows and vertical blinds?

I agree those window coverings are wholly inadequate for keeping out light. They're the "cheap, default" window coverings provided by most condo associations.   You're expected to upgrade if you own the place.
Normal upgrades include heavier curtains which do block the light.  Note that most quality curtains have a "curtain liner" on the backside.  These are typically white or off-white, even if your side of the curtain is red, blue, black or whatever.   It might even be a variation on the blinds you do have, with the interior side black instead of white.
So they certainly don't mean you can't have window treatments that are non-white on the interior side.  They mean if you're going to put up trailer-trash third world literally garbage up to block light, you need to stand it off from the proper window treatments so you don't mess up their aesthetic.
You live there because  you like it, because it's nice, right?  Well, it didn't get nice by itself.  It's nice because the builder, and the condo association, and the residents, work pretty hard to keep it nice.
"Nice" has other implications, like higher class occupants and less crime.
If you really mean to say "nice" is not important to you, then you're wasting capital by tying it up in a property whose major (costly) feature is being "nice".  Sell it and get something that's a better fit.


Water heater too hot, possibly caused by low water flow

The final piece of the puzzle reveals what was going on.

What I thought was a 2nd or 1st building shutoff was a shutoff outside the building that only shuts off those two specific bathroom sinks' cold water supplies.

Why!?  Who knows!  It's an old building.

But that explains why those two taps were too hot and why none of the other fixtures in the building were affected.

Another factor was that I was using the kitchen sink faucet to test the water temperature, but those are probably not anti scald.


white termites - 2 orange oil treatments, building won't fumigate

What the heck are they...?

Those look very much like Western Drywood Termites

If I can't fumigate, what are my options?

Spot treatments do work, and there are several types of spot treatment (local poisoning, freezing, electrocution...). Effectiveness is variable and depends on ability to locate the termite galleries and nest. If it were me I would start my own search for "kick-out" holes (the little holes that are used for termites to eject frass from their galleries) and use consumer termite poison liberally to start killing them off. probing with a thin awl can help you find galleries.
Fumigation (or other "whole house" treatment; there is a method to heat up the structure and "cook" them, also) is truly the only way to ensure that all have been killed.