How to calculate potential energy savings from using a tempering tank?

You're basically thinking of a tank near/above the boiler that pre-warms the cold feed  from waste heat (the warmth of the boiler room) - If installation cost was no object, hand-wavingly it will help. So if you can do it at a fairly low cost, it should save a bit.

Getting to hard numbers is fairly difficult, or very easy if you knew some unknowable things.

A gallon of #2 fuel oil is roughly 138,000 BTUs - if we give your boiler the benefit of the doubt and say it's 85% efficient (a few might be more, a fair number will be 80 ) that means you'll get 117,000 BTUs from each gallon burned.

1 BTU heats one pound of water one degree Farenheit. 117,000 will heat 1800 lb of water from a "cold but not frozen" 34F to "might be a warm shower" 99F - that's roughly 225 gallons. If you prefer a "very hot" 120F shower, 170 gallons.

That's the easy part. The hard part (or mass of made-up fudge-factors) is "and what will the tempering tank do for the input water temperature" - to the extent that it directly sucks heat, it will make no difference (you're still burning fuel to heat your house and water, you're just shifting it around a bit) but to the extent that it "scavenges" heat that would otherwise be wasted, there is a savings. If the input water temperature was raised 21 degrees to 55, you'd get 225 gallons of very hot shower from your gallon of oil. If we make the ballpark assumption that you use 17 gallons per shower, you'd get 3 "free" showers (13 for the price of 10) Which is 25% savings looked at one direction, 30 the other. But "garbage in, garbage out" rules here - while I'm trying to speculate reasonably, it's just speculating. what the actual effect on your water heating will be is essentially unknown until you try it, though you can possibly make more educated guesses by considering things like the average temperature in the place you'd be putting the tank, your actual shower times and shower flow-rate, actual water temperatures in and as you shower, etc...

If you can fit the appropriate drain pipe below your shower, there is a neat widget that plumbs the cold-water to the shower around a copper drain pipe from the shower, pre-warming the cold water to the shower as you shower, so you can use less hot for the same shower temperature.


What does a Summer/Winter switch on furnace air ducts do?

I assume you are in a cold climate, like Minnesota (where I am).  I will address your question in three parts; the first two have to do with the humidifier.

The "winter" setting on the duct in your photo:  It appears from the photo that the duct in question goes from your humidifier around to the return (intake) side of your furnace's ducting.  This needs to be open in the winter to allow the humidifier to function, but closed in summer.  If you leave it closed in winter, then your humidifier will have almost no effect.  If you leave it open in summer, then your A/C's efficiency will be reduced.
The white control box in your photo is the controller for the humidifier.  On mine, the knob settings are "off" and 1-7 (1=less humidity added to your house, 7=max humidity added).  There is also a "test" setting past 7 that will turn on the water.  Someone appears to have labeled yours with a "W" to indicate what they think is the best winter setting.  If you leave this "off" in the winter, then your house may become uncomfortably dry.  It should be set to "off" in the summer.  There are no fans or other moving parts in your type of humidifier; there is a water valve that is either closed or open (the humidifier is on when water is running through it).
If you have other ducts in your house that are labelled "winter," then those are probably just changing which rooms get the most air blown in.  In my experience, people like to direct more heat into lower levels (e.g. basement) in the winter. (edit: Evil's response on this point is more complete).


Control thermostat capillary failure reason why?

The problem was the capillary tube. it was broken at one point.


Anybody know how to change my bathroom light bulb case/cover?

Spin the glass bowl inside of the white halo.


I saw interference mentioned on a couple of responses.  My hardwired buttons worked every time.  None of the remotes (including the punch code one) worked.  Climbed on step ladder and noticed crackling noise and flickering Compact Florescent Bulb CFL.  Took out CFL.  Good bye interference  Everything works.   Thanks


How to fix a slate floor tile in my kitchen

Looks like slate

It isn't.  Slate, being a natural product, isn't a different color on the back than it is on the top.  What you have there is a ceramic tile that is glazed and textured to look like slate.  That's actually a good thing in this case because slate is fragile and often requires more care in order to get it set level.

What's the worst that can happen?

Well...I don't know how it works in the UK, but if you try to repair it and do a poor job, can the letting company come after you for your deposit?  It might be more hassle later on than it is just to have the landlord get it fixed.

What is this adhesive called?

What you're looking at is called "thin-set mortar", and it is a cementitious adhesive that usually has to be mixed the way you'd mix concrete.  The "stripes" are troweled into the thin-set using a notched trowel and the tile is set in place.  It's not "adhesive" in the sense that it comes in a caulk tube and you can just squeeze it onto the back of the tile and glue it down.


How can I fix this furnace filter slot to prevent filters bending?

Assuming you can find a channel at one of the big box stores you can slide the channel in and maybe screw it in all the way at the end so the screws don't interfere with the filter. In fact it seems like you don't even need a piece of channel. A piece bent like an L should work. When you screw it in offset it so the top of the L is not above the top of the filter. Attached is a drawing.


I need help identifying this shower valve

This looks like you have a Single Valve Control Shower .. where yours has temperature settings on it. Maybe this is your tempering valve, it can also be a Pressure Balance Valve or what sometimes can be referred to as anti-scalding valves these valves prevent burns from water when say the toilet is flushed - all the cold water flows to the toilet and that leaves only hot for the shower hence you get scorched.

More and better pictures will be needed if you want to know brand and model information.

BTW - the valve in the back might be part of the assembly and actually have the manufacturer model or info on it.


How to ensure proper drainage in a back yard

See  How to build a french drain

This is exactly the purpose for one. They are made to drain water from areas that have poor drainage from clay in the soil or other problems,
I would put it in right on the edge of the grass and the brick. That way the water from the grass will flow into it before reaching the brick and the water from the brick will flow into the drain before it ever reaches your house.


Gas-fired water heater safe to have in living area of home?

As long as the gas appliance is vented properly, it is not a CO hazard. Venting is vital to ensure combustion products (i.e., CO) do not remain in the living space. If you are in doubt, get the water heater checked by a professional.

Carbon monoxide detectors are also required by code - one on each floor and outside each set of bedrooms. But, perhaps counter-intuitively, do not place a CO detector close to the water heater (or any other gas appliance); doing so can lead to false positive readings / alarms.


Cracked Tile in New Construction Home - Foundation issues?

Your slab has cracked and that it why your tiles are cracking. This is not good and you need to document everything with pictures and get back with the builder to fix this. Check with your Better Business Bureau (or whoever you have) to see about attorneys who could help if it should come to that. Send copies of the pictures and descriptions of the damage to the builder via certified mail. Get this ball rolling while your still under warranty. Good luck.


Moderate localized water damage that's hard to inspect from above

I don’t see ANY discoloration (black stains, etc.) on the studs or roof joists. Therefore, it’s minor and hasn’t damaged the wood structurally or caused mold.

The damage is what I’d classify as insignificant. It’s not worth tearing up your attic to see the damage from “above”.

If you’re not sure you’ve stopped the leak, you could take an ink pen (a pencil won’t work) and draw an outline around the perimeter of the leak/stain. Keep an eye on it for one rainy season, then fix the ceiling. If it leaks again, keep a journal and make note if it leaks during heavy rain, strong winds, rain coming from the west, etc. It’ll help you find the “real” leak later.


Remove adjustable pipe clamp without head

You can use a socket or regular wrench to turn those types of clamp screws.


How to do surface preparation of walls before painting them?

I assume it's drywall.  It's tough to advise without knowing the existing conditions, but you'd probably be safe with a primer.  If it's a new wall that has not been painted, it depends if it's finished with drywall mud.  If not, you'll need to mud the wall and sand it prior to applying primer.


Updated Answer
Definition of a wet vent: a drain pipe that also serves as a vent pipe and extends from the most downstream wet-vented fixture connection to the most upstream fixture connection (the green item 4 in the below sketch).
Wet vents are typically used when plumbing a bathroom group. So yes the shower can also be vented by the wet vent along with the toilet. There is one major stipulation when wet venting multiple fixtures when a toilet is one of them: the toilet must be the last fixture connected to the wet vent. This means that in some situations you must use a symmetrical fitting (such as a double wye) in order to not break that rule. (Also, there can only be a max of two toilets connected to a wet vent).
Typical Bathroom Wet Vents:

The left sketch shows a typical arraignment when the toilet (WC) is located in-between the sink (LAV) and shower (SH). This arraignment relies on the use of a double wye fitting to avoid lines crossing while maintaining the toilet as the last fixture connected to the wet vent.
The right sketch shows how a bathroom wet vent might be arraigned without the use of the symmetrical fitting. There are many ways that a wet vent can be arranged, it all depends on the location of the fixtures and the direction the drain is coming from.
Components of a Typical Bathroom Wet Vent:

Branch: Distance is unlimited but must be graded as per the diameter of the pipe.
Trap Arm / Fixture Drain (shower): Distance is limited by the diameter of the pipe as the fall cannot exceed the pipe diameter. If 2" the distance would be 8' measured from the connection to the wet vent (where blue meets green).
Fixture Drain (toilet): Distance is limited by the diameter of the pipe as the fall cannot exceed the pipe diameter. If 3" the distance would be 12' measured from the connection to the wet vent (where violet meets green).
Wet Vent Branch: Distance is unlimited but must be graded as per the diameter of the pipe.
Trap Arm (sink): Distance is limited by the diameter of the pipe as the fall cannot exceed the pipe diameter. Measured from the connection to the vent.

Issues With Your Sketch
The shower is connected to the toilet's fixture drain meaning that the the toilet is no longer the last fixture connected to the wet vent. (The issue with the toilet not being the last fixture is that the rush of water when the toilet is flushed could choke the vent connection of the other fixture (in your case the shower) and could result in siphoning out the fixture's trap.)
If you were to run the vent for the shower as shown in grey, the toilet would now be wet vented by the shower. The pipe downstream of the vent connection to the shower's fixture drain and the connection to the toilet would be the wet vent. The grey vent would be a dry vent, however the issue here would be that in most locations, you are not allowed to run the dry vent horizontal until you are 6" above the flood level of the fixture is serves and at minimum 42" above the floor.
The solution in your case would be to use a double wye fitting to symmetrical connect all three fixtures, similar to the left sketch.
I assume that the other fixture shown in the bottom left of your sketch in separately vented.
Original Answer
No. The portion from the wet vent connection (wye) to the 90 elbow under the toilet has a max distance determined by the grade of the pipe (3" pipe, 12' distance). The wet vent portion, from the vent connection at the sink to the wye that connects the toilet has no distance limit (it actually goes vertical). The portion from the vent connection to the sink is limited by the grade of the pipe (distance will vary as the pipe could be 2", 1-1/2", or 1-1/4" for a bathroom sink).


Well water in whole-house water filter turning green

You don't need to experiment with this system. What you have there is algae growth because you have opened up your well house to sunlight. This is a very common problem. Algae is every where, it is in the wind, all around you. Algae needs two things to grow, sunlight and water. You just supplied the sunlight. Eliminate the sunlight and you will not have any growth. I usually recommend to my clients that they make a boot out of insulation for there filter. Or you can simply replace your cartridge housing with a new one that is not clear. The clear ones are nice because you can see your filter and it indicates when to change. But, you already know that because of experience with when to change your filter out. So, Boot over the filter housing or change housings, problem solved.


For servicing the workings of the whole unit can be taken indoors by undoing fastenings located indoors, leaving just the shell outside, you don't need the power of flight, but you do need to be strong, or gang up on it.

Some designs spray excess condensate water on the condenser coils to improve efficiency, the watery sound may be normal.


Cement board over existing drywall dilemma

Yes!  This is actually a very common install method.  I do drywall, plastic, then hardieboard on nearly half my tub shower surrounds.  It is easier to work with 1/4" HB and I get flatter walls.  You could make a point that this type of install is the most effective and long term in a lot of cases.  For a stand-up shower I would however put something like redgard over the backer.


How to remove turn-style tub overflow cover?

The reason you hear a grating sound and can only turn the over flow plate slightly is because it is attached to a bushing which is screwed into the over flow pipe. When you turn the cap it threads into the pipe. If you are concerned that water is leaking from the over flow drain pipe behind the tub there should be an access panel on the other side of the drain wall (usually). If there is no way to check the drain you may want to create an access so you can check. Other possible ways to check would be the floor under the tub (if there is space).


How should a plumbing system that contains underfloor heating and a back boiler be designed?

That's overkill.  All you need is a heat exchanger.
It's vital to separate the system that can boil from the system that can't boil.   PWR/VVER nuclear reactors have a similar heat exchanger separating the "must not boil" section from the "OK to boil" section.
A gas water heater avoids the problem of boiling by simply regulating the gas flow when the water gets too hot.  A wood stove can't do that, because wood isn't "throttleable". So it's possible for the heater/"boiler" to get more heat than it can use, and then, boiling is unavoidable.
The floor-heat temperature can be "throttled" by regulating the water flow coming from the wood stove.
A thermal store is a big tank of water kept hot.  In that setup, the wood stove's water loop interchanges into the thermal store, and then, the floor loop draws heat from the store.   This provides a large thermal buffer, which is nice but not strictly part of your requirement.


Can these posts be removed to open up this staircase railing?will I have to reinforce this beam? If so how would I do that?

We don’t know the span of the beam or the size of the beam or the actual load on the beam, but it appears that it was designed to have the opening in the wall because:

Single top plate.

Sole plate is not pressure treated indicating the entire wall was added later by a person not familiar with construction or knew it should be removed later. (The other sole plate in the picture is pressure treated, indicating that wall is to remain long term. )

The three posts on each end of the post do not sit on the sole plate, but rather extend through the floor (presumably to a support below). It appears there is just the top of a post base visible on the left post.

Neither triple stud posts have a post cap. I’d add one on each.
I’d also leave the double stud at the bottom of the stairs so you can turn the partial height wall horizontal and install a handrail.
If you give more info, like size of beam, span, etc. it could be determined that the beam is adequate or needs reinforcement.
Edit: Just to be clear, your question asks about removing “posts”. Those are “studs” you’ll be removing not posts. The triple studs at each end of the beam are posts, and they are to remain.


Is there any way I can guard this pipe from screws and nails?

That screw seems to have found the magic spot and I think it's unlikely to happen again, however you might want to somehow strap a protection plate around the Tee; I wouldn't worry about the rest of the pipe.


GFCI circuit keeps tripping on electrical panel

I think you were on the right track by looking for recent changes:
I unplugged a heater which was really the only thing in the wall that was added in the last month. It didn't happen for a few weeks. Then it started again.
GFCI or AFCI?
While you mentioned GFCI, the breaker may actually be a combination GFCI + AFCI breaker. As I understand it, the type of damage from a high current device like a heater may actually be more in the nature of an arc fault than a ground fault. The solutions are largely the same - track down the damaged parts of the circuit and replace. But an arc fault as a cause seems more plausible to me.
It could be unrelated, but logically it may be due to damage caused by the heater's frequent tripping of the breaker. That could be anywhere, but the most likely places are:

The breaker

Nothing lasts forever. While I suspect the breaker is rated for thousands of cycles MTBF (mean time between failure), it may not really have handled so many trips very well. The problem is replacing it may not be so easy, and probably not recommended for you to do that yourself if you are not familiar with breaker panels. In any case, it would need to be with a proper compatible replacement - same or compatible brand, same type (including GFCI and/or AFCI), same current rating.

The outlet

The outlet and/or the wiring going into the outlet may have been been damaged in a way that caused the trips and now, due to repeated problems, it may have become the source of a new problem even without the heater. To check this, turn the breaker off and open up the outlet. If you see any burnt wire, melted insulation or other damage, or a backstab connection instead of screws, replace the outlet. Actually, I would just replace the outlet in any case - just get a standard 15A or 20A outlet matching the old outlet, and make sure to use the screw terminals.


Perhaps: Look at cove tile if you want to cover that gap. Alternatively, a 4" wide 1/2" thick stone threshold (on edge) should fit and cover the gap. White marble and black granite seem to be the common options for those.
Depending on the top material, you could also scribe the top (cutting it to match the wall)


Can I split my electrical mains in two so I can have an independent meter in my outhouse?

Probably not, but typically the utility will simply supply multiple drops for you. If you wanted to have two meters, the split would have to occur before the meters. Not many utility companies would be thrilled with this, as unmetered taps would be a major concern.

Also if you split the service, you'll be limited by the ampacity of the supply conductors. So if you pay for a 100 ampere service, you'll be limited to 100 amperes for both buildings. Whereas if you were to get two service drops, you could use 100 amperes in each location.


With things like that, I've found that putting a plastic bag full of white vinegar, warmed up a little is even better,  will dissolve various crud and free it up.  Seal it up with tape or a rubber band and leave it for a few hours or over night.


Circuit breaker kicks off when one switch is on

What you're describing is known as a "switch loop".  A cable runs between the switch box and the fixture box, which is used to interrupt the ungrounded (hot) conductor.

Basically, power comes into the box on the black wire in the "feed cable".  It travels along the white wire in the "* switch cable*" to the switch, then back from the switch on the black wire in the "switch cable" to the fixture.


Typically when I pour concrete against a house foundation, (never pour concrete against any siding IMHO, it invites trouble later) I have an expansion joint set to the house. It can be cork, 1/2" thick by 4" tall set to the wall with short pins to hold it while pouring. There is a tar or asphalt impregnated expansion joint material too that may hold a straight line better with fewer fasteners.

The 1/8"/ft is a good number as mentioned by Jimmy fix-it. To set the slope, a form is set in place that sets the size (area) and the top level of the concrete surface. The form is also set at the recommended slope. 2X4s are usually used for this, then they are removed after a day or so. You will also need a concrete edger to ease the corner where the 2X forms are.

Usually pro concrete workers would not set anything within the 10 width, they don't need it, but you can set something at the middle if you choose, since an 8' screed board is a killer to pull if you don't have good help. It can either be a short piece of rebar driven in so the top is at the level for the concrete, strike your concrete in that area to the level dictated by the rebar, after the surface is set, drive the rebar further into the concrete so it is well below the surface. It works but it is easy to loose track of this pin while everything else is going on.

The other way to do the same is set a wood stake in the place you wish to use to set the top of the concrete, making sure the stake is tall enough to be well above the concrete finished surface, say anywhere between 6" to 1' above, (it can be more, but shorter would make the removal harder), set a screw or nail at the level of the concrete and when the level of concrete is set to the nail or screw, pull the stake out and plop a small amount of concrete while you are pouring to fill the void left by the removed stake. Yes you will need boots, and get in the middle of it.

When placing the concrete the edges are floated very close to the finished level, all around the edges. The pour will start from the farthest side, and the pour will proceed closer to the truck. Set the level at the house using a hand float to set the level to the expansion joint and work the far side and start going down the long side, striking the concrete off to the finished level with the screed. You will still need to float it perhaps 2 more times after that if you are going with a broom finish.

Get the rest of the concrete down, and if you are still alive, start the floating process. Use a "bull float" to get most of the surface closed up and the grout brought up, this is critical to get this right the first time!!! Setting the level properly with the screed will really make a difference too.
One more time with a hand float after an hour or so should make it ready for the broom finish.

On a slab that is 50" long you will need to run control joints or cut them in later at every 10' or so. I think it is recommended to have expansion joint every 20' but it may not be required. Again, control joints would be highly recommended..


Framing basement bathroom: original builder didn't account for wall wrap when laying bathroom drains?

Is there a reason why you need a 3-1/2" thick wall? If not, the studs could be rotated so the rough wall adds only 1-1/2" in front of the insulation/wrap. It seems that would make all the other problems melt away.
You'd have to figure out what to do about top and bottom plates. You could rip a 2x4 in half and try to nail the studs to that, but it's prone to splitting. Another option is to position the bottom plate like normal, but cut or lift the wall wrap so that the bottom plate can be pressed against the concrete wall. The wall wrap would effectively be recessed inside the wall. The top plate might be done similarly, but it's also possible that this interior wall will be taller than the concrete wall such that there's no real conflict between concrete, wrap, and top plate.
Local codes might require additional insulation be added when the space is finished out. Generally it's allowable to use layers of different types of insulation so long as the total meets the R-value requirement, so if the wrap is left in place, its R-value contributes to the total. You'll probably find that the 1-1/2" cavity is thick enough to allow whatever additional insulation might be required.
Insulation doesn't perform as advertised when compressed, so if you prefer fiberglass batts, you might consider buying 3-1/2" thick batts and separating them to half-thickness for this job.


Often the electrician will have multiple taps in a ceiling light or fan.

The popping sound is probably where the problem is, and resetting the breaker did nothing because the popping ( fault to ground ) broke the circuit.

I would not recommend this for a DIY project because damaged wires and connections need expert eyes.

But the good news is you've probably saved the electrician some leg work hunting down the source of the problem, and you some money paying their time.

Smoke alarms need to be replaced every 10 years so that may need to be done since you mentioned the house is over 10 years old.

Garage doors opening on their own shouldn't have anything to do with power quality, but more of a circuit board defect, faulty keypad button or similar.


Is it typical to use protectowrap on a deck ledger?

Yes, that was installed for a reason. A common rot location has been behind ledger boards such as this. Even with metal cap flashing water tends to run behind, and it doesn't dry out well. This results in rot of the sheathing and joists behind.

Normally the siding is close enough to the deck that you don't see the flashing. You might overlay something to conceal the membrane. To avoid fastener holes it could be adhered with silicone or urethane caulk and held in place with the decking.


Using tool at home made to work in cigarette socket?

Search for 120V 12V cigarette lighter adapter. If your home electricity is 240V (i.e., most places outside USA/Canada) then look for 240V 12V cigarette lighter adapter. Some adapters will, like laptop chargers and other equipment, handle a range 110V - 240V, 50/60 Hz.

You'll find more of the reverse (to run 120VAC equipment using your car's 12VDC) but there are plenty like this adapter on Amazon. I recommend getting one that is UL listed if possible and make sure it can supply the power (watts) your tools need.


Adding USB Dual Port Charger Receptacle Blows Mains

"The bridge between the screws was not broken" Are you 100% sure of that? Because the common use for black and red wires and a two-pole breaker in a kitchen outlet circuit is for a common neutral circuit (multiwire branch circuit), and shorting the two phases together with the new outlet would produce exactly the symptoms you have seen. So I'm going to suggest that the two sides of the old outlet are not actually connected, and if you don't have a meter you can check that with, I'll provide you an alternate test that does not involve looking at the connection, which you've already done and come to (I suspect) the wrong conclusion about:

Cap the red (or black) wire and connect only the black (or red) wire to the old outlet. Plug something into one receptacle, and see if has power. Then plug it into the other side. Repeat with the other wire (only) connected to the other side (only.) If I'm right, in each case, only half the outlet will have power, and which half will change with which screw you connect to.

It appears that the device you have probably only has one hot screw, so it cannot be connected the same way as the old outlet with two separate hots; so leave one wire capped off, or install it somewhere other than your kitchen (the reason for using this type of circuit in the kitchen is to provide more circuits to the countertop outlets - this device defeats that if it cannot have two separate hot feeds.)


How to mount load-bearing assembly meant to be installed into joists

This shouldn't be a big ordeal - just get a 2x6 and cut it so that it spans at least 2 joists when oriented in the direction you want the pullup bar (perpendicular).  Use lag bolts to secure the 2x6 to the joists, then use more lag bolts to secure the pullup bar to your 2x6.

If that seems to have too much flex for you (I doubt it), you can always double up the 2x6's and use longer lag bolts to attach them to the ceiling.

Oh, also, 2x4s might work fine, but the mounting holes for your bar seemed too wide for that.


Can I move the range hood but not the roof vent (angled "flue" pipe)?

Putting the stove in the corner like you propose also gives you some nice space to work with for routing the pipe up into the ceiling / roof area or out an exerior wall.

Seems to me that re-routing the vent to the previous riser location is a total non-starter. Many hoods vent up into the small cabinet above the hood and your re-routed vent pipe is going to make a mess of the upper cabinets if it has to route nine feet across your kitchen.


I replaced my door hinges and now the door is too tight at the door jam. Why?

Since to problem occurred only after the hinges were replaced, and presuming the door had no other issues, the fix will need to be only with the hinges. There may have been a cardboard shim behind the old hinges to tweak them in place, many doors need this as time goes on. That is all you should need as well.
Cereal box cardboard or similar material work best since it is relatively thin. If you put something too thick behind it, the hinge problem will go away, but you will have the door hitting the jamb on the other side.
I slice the cardboard into 1/4" strips the length of the hinge, in your case 3 1/2" or slightly shorter. Loosen the screws on the hinges you need to adjust one at a time on the jamb side and slip the cardboard shim behind the hinge and push it in far enough to flush up with the jamb. Tigthen those screws.

2-6-15 Edit

I add the cardboard to one side only, the jamb side. Adding it to the door side will show an unsightly gap, whereas when you apply it on the jamb side, the trim and hinge barrel hides the gap. If the gap needs to created all the way through, in other words, on all hinges, then the procedure is simple, add shims at all hinges. I find that sometimes the hinges need more than one shim, sometimes it needs to be doubled. Then I take the cardboard, cut it 1/2" wide, then score it lightly in the middle, so it will fold like a hinge on the score and I have a double thick piece that is easily controlled as it is inserted.

If you find that the gap is tighter on the top end or perhaps it is the bottom end, there is nothing wrong with adding a double thick on one and a single on the other. Another tip I always use is, and this is only if you have a door with 3 or more hinges. Remove the center hinge pin(s) first. The door leaf is typically considered straight, very rare when the edge of a door is not. Jambs can be installed very crooked without knowing it, for the center pin will hold the jamb "straight" I have removed the center hinge pin before on a door I had to correct, and had the jamb shift a 1/4" on its own without touching it to make it move. This was the worst one I seen, and I seen various movement to lesser degrees too. A 1/16" is nothing, but not desired but if you do what I suggest, it can be no deflection from straight. The door will work the easiest if all hinge pins are in a straight line. If they get out of alignment the door will work stiff, or noisy.

Back at the shims. with the center pin removed, gap the jamb the way I described above with the shims to make the door work freely, remember no middle pin. After that is accomplished, and if needed, loosen the screw on the center hinge and apply the needed amount of shim(s) to the center hinge. Tighten the screws, open and close the door a few times to make sure the hinge is settled into its new position well before you drop in the pin. Adjust one last time if you need to get it just right, the set you pin to finish the job.

End Edit

Note: Be CERTAIN that the new hinges are set properly in their mortices before you start this, many time a hinge will lay over one edge of the mortice or the other and yank around the door fit that way. So much for that detail.

No, the cardboard does not have to be all the way across the setting of the hinge. The shim as I describe it will eliminate the possibility of hinge binding.


Bypassing a defective heating element in an oven toaster

Your heating elements are wired in series because it takes two elements to match the voltage of your electricity supply.
because they are in series the dead element has disabled its partner. There's no cheap solution.


How can I secure NM cable to a metal stud?

Cables do need to be secured, but as you surmise, stapes and other nailed retainers wont work. There is a discussion of how to attach cables to steel studs in a brochure put out by the Steel Framing Alliance. Included in that broader pamphlet is this advice:

  NM wire is not stapled to a CFS stud because the
  staples will not penetrate the steel. Instead, wires are held
  in place with wire ties fed through punchouts in the CFS or
  with mounted head cable ties which are cinched around
  wire bundles. Mounting hole or mounted head cable ties are
  specialized ties that have a ring at one end that serves for
  fastening the tie to a CFS component with a screw. Other
  specialized wire accessories are available to re-support wires,
  like cable supports and standoffs.

Cable fasteners such as these can be used

There are also a wide variety of cable ties that can be threaded through slots in the framing or have standoffs that can be screwed to the framing such asthis type

Search steel stud cable mount and steel stud cable tie. Big box stores tend not to have them, so you probably need to seek out a specialty shop or look online.

You also can use cable spacers that work on wood or metal studs (using a screw)

It is also extremely important that you use grommets when you feed NM cables through steel studs or you risk a serious chance of shorting them out.

 Images and links for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


You don't want to install wheels on those shelves. They will fall apart on you.

Instead of trying to find a way to install wheels on shelves, find shelving that is already on wheels and buy that.


How can I deal with a short bottom step on a stairwell?

The key is to eliminate any variation over about 1/8" to prevent tripping. You can change the rise gradually and most folks won't notice it.

Sounds like you'll have about a 2" discrepancy to deal with. I'd remove 6-10 treads and start adding wood strips to the stringers to bring the bottom rise to say 7", then add 1/8" to each subsequent rise until you're at 7-1/2". Be sure to account for finished flooring.

If you want to better handle the tall top rise, remove all treads and work up as I described to its height in 1/8" increments.

Use construction adhesive and small nails or screws for all strips, and glue and 3" screws for the treads to prevent noise.


What is the explicit difference between the ground and neutral wire in 110V systems?

Grounding
The bare copper (grounding) conductor is a safety system that provides an effective ground-fault current path, and should only ever have current it in the event of a fault. It provides a low resistance path back to the source, so that a fault can be cleared by the breaker (trip).
Grounded (neutral)
The grounded (neutral) conductor is a current carrying conductor, and is used to complete the circuit back to the source.  In normal use, it will carry the same amount of current as the ungrounded (hot) conductor.
Touching this wire is not recommended, as there is actually current flowing through it.  However, as it likely provides a lower resistance path back to the source, most of the current will flow through the wire instead of you. If there's enough current flowing, or you provide a good enough path to the source, touching this wire can result in large amounts of current flowing through you.


What are your drywall/cement board/framing flatness tolerances for tile supporting walls?

Just use drywall cardboard shims or sistered studs to bring the studs into plane. TCNA says 1/4" deviation over 10'. If using large format tile, trying to level with thinset after will take way longer and be more frustrating than the time it would take to make sure the walls are straight and plumb
Edit: Since you like Sal youtube videos this is the one you want https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCUWkbG060s


That is most likely expandable foam that is used to seal air spaces. It has VERY sticky and can even bound with some plastics. It is very hard or impossible to completely remove and it will likely either need to be replaced or some cover-up applied (I have not heard of this or know of what could be done)

Your builder almost surely wants you to just go away. What do they have to gain from fixing it? Your future business? It is VERY common for contractors and builders to ignore you unless you continue to press HARD. This should be addressed by them, after all, you paid for this to be correct and you did not receive a credit for this poor condition, you should NOT HAVE TO LIVE WITH IT. If they start a pattern of vagueness / no commitment or give a longer time frame before they can address it (pretty much anything other than doing it now) then they are putting you off hoping that you will give up. Don't give up. Get legal help if you need to.


How do I repair damaged enamel inside my toilet bowl?

No. The only solution that really works is a new toilet. You can try anything you want to try, but expect it to fail.


How would you repair this copper drain pipe, and how much pipe would you replace?

That's a bad spot to have a leak. That could have been caused by too much heat from a torch or excess acid flux. You might be able to cut the 1 1/4" pipe on the other side of the support and heat the joint going into the "y" and remove the piece of pipe. Then clean out all the old solder by heating up the pipe and wiping out solder. Use emery paper to clean the surface down to the copper. Get a new piece of pipe and a repair coupling. Slide the repair coupling on the old pipe after fluxing and then slide the pipe into the "Y" after applying the flux. Flux the new pipe and slide the repair coupling into place. Now sweat the "Y" and the repair coupling. You should be good to go.


Every bleeder. Some may not even be on radiators (depends on system layout/design - bleeder elbows are common, but more on baseboard than radiator type systems.

If there is air trapped in a radiator, no water gets pumped through it. Circulator pumps are very limited devices. They don't do well at pushing air bubbles around the loop.


Ridge vent conversion creating heat problem

This is a horrible problem to have, and yet you will encounter many who will insinuate that you are crazy for suggesting it. Hold strong: you are not crazy. The problem is real. More insulation is not always better in all situations for all climates at all times of year irrespective of ventilation. Ignore people who claim this. They have never personally experienced this phenomenon, as you and I have.

Here's what's happening: The added insulation is indeed slowing down the heat transfer, so less heat is entering your house during the day. However, the amount of diminished heat transfer may be a lot less than the sticker R-value might suggest due to a multitude of factors, and poor design or installation choices made during the work may actually have resulted in more heat gain. Here are some options for you to investigate:

Attic ceiling not air sealed; hot attic air can go right through the insulation and into the house
Uneven insulation application; heat movement barely diminished in some areas
Scammy contractors didn't blow/add as much insulation as you paid for; R-40 attic floor insulation is about 11" deep if it's all cellulose and 15" deep for fiberglass. If it's shallower than that, you got robbed!
Use of fiberglass, especially on the top layer; fiberglass is more air-permeable than cellulose, and slightly IR-translucent, which means the the infrared heat transfer from the roof decking is not getting blocked as well as you might expect
Potentially darker roofing material dramatically increases the amount of heat that the attic receives throughout the day
You said they "replac[ed] the original venting with ridge vent." What was there before? Gable vents? Turtle vents? This matters, because if you live in a windy area and/or if your roof has a low pitch, then turtle or gable exhaust vents may be more effective than ridge exhaust vents
Contractors might have clogged the soffit vents, and if there are only a few of them, then they may not be sufficient to provide enough air for the new ridge vent
The house now cools off less at night because of the insulation slowing down heat transfer out of the house once the attic cools down to below the indoor temperature; the insulation is working against you after the sun goes down!

So, what do you do? Here are some options, presented in ascending order of cost and hassle:

Once the sun goes down, open the windows and turn on your bath fan to cool the house
Ensure that soffit vents are unblocked
Ensure that the ridge vent was installed properly and is not blocked by anything
If the insulation is uneven or lumpy, smooth it out
Add more soffit vents
Add a solar-powered attic ventilator, and face the solar panel west if at all possible. Western sunlight is your enemy; use it to your advantage by having it power a fan to exhaust the hot attic air (note: only do this once you have air-sealed your ceiling/attic floor)
Add gable vents (if applicable)
Staple a radiant barrier under the rafters
If the top layer of insulation is fiberglass, add a few inches of cellulose insulation over the top of it
Lay a multi-layered radiant barrier OVER the insulation on the floor (note: must be multi-layered, such as http://insulmation.stores.yahoo.net/thcome.html (no affiliation), since the top will get dusty so there must be additional layers that dust will not settle on)
Add a whole-house attic fan and run it as soon as the sun goes down (note: only applicable in a dry, mountainous climate, and make sure it has insulated doors that are closed during the day)
Replace the roofing material with something lighter-colored and preferably made out of metal, installed over ridge-to-eave purlins to create over-sheathing ventilation channels


How do I find the source of a slow leak in a roof that has been repaired?

The source of the leak could be a penetration of some sort. If you have roof vents, sky light, chimney, etc.. there could be opportunity for water to get in. I have had trouble with the same thing and have found several places to look. Stack boots around the vents.. Older ones are metal with sealant around the opening. newer ones are plastic with a rubber seal. This seal dries out and cracks. Check the flashing around chimneys and skylights. Flashing is made of metal and can fatigue or corrode if bent causing cracks to form. Some flashing is embedded in masonry when the chimney is built, other flashing is sealed to it with tar or caulk. I have roof vents to cool the attic and have found out they were not installed correctly. The shingles on the low side were put down on top of the flange and not under it. Check all of these places for bad seals. I sealed as many of these places as I could find and have gotten most of the leaks.

If it is a flat roof, it may have a drain on it. This drain can clog or fracture causing water to find alternate routs. If water backs up on a flat roof (new or old) chances are, you will get a leak.

Also keep in mind, leaks travel. you may have water dripping out of an area in the middle of the roof, but the entry point could be several feet away.

This is a long shot but.., possibly, if the roof is over a single story of a two story house (like an added on family room), there could be a leak in the plumbing from an upstairs bathroom finding a path to the roof and showing up as the leak.


Replace section of copper heating-loop w/ pex

Flow shouldn't be an issue. You can check the table here for copper and here for PEX to see how much pressure you'll lose per a given length of pipe. Copper and PEX are very similar.


How should I fill channels left in old plaster after dado rail removal?

I don't understand option 2, but option 1 is exactly what I'd do. A few suggestions:

Be sure that the thickness of your drywall brings it to flush or slightly below. Do not install patches that protrude above the wall surface. This will be difficult to tape without leaving a bulge.
If you end up with a depression after installing the patches, pre-fill before taping, possibly with a setting-type compound (which is more difficult to work with, but cures quickly, is stronger, and doesn't shrink nearly as much).
Don't worry too much about getting a lot of screws in the drywall patches. The two close tape joints will hold it all very solidly. You don't want to crack up your plaster any more than necessary.
Use a nice wide knife for your finish coat(s) and taper out substantially. I'd go no less than 12" from the edges of the patch. Skinny repairs will leave noticeable ridges.

Good luck.


Is it within code to leave unused romex wire within a stud cavity for future use?

It is fine to do what you propose, as long as you are 100% certain that the cables/wires are not terminated at the feed/switch ends. This is very common. This is NOT burying a junction box or splice. There is no code prohibition to leaving a dead wire in the wall for future use.

I would however take photos of the area for your own records, and label the ends of the wires at the switch boxes just in case you don't follow through with this and the next owners find them. They may want to do the same and have a pleasant surprise.


Connecting modern dimmer to two-wire junction box

Your dimmer is not compatible with your wiring
Your house appears to be wired in late-stage knob-and-tube, with only the hot wires (incoming and outgoing) present in the box and the neutral bypassing it.  As a result, you do not have a neutral in the box, which is what your dimmers require to power all the "smart" electronics inside them.  You'll either need to use a "smart" dimmer that trickles power through the load, such as the no-neutral version of the Lutron Caseta (and perhaps LUT-MLCs in the fixtures to keep your lightbulbs from glowing or flickering due to that trickle of power), or have the neutral rerouted into the box, which'll require an electrician who's familiar with knob-and-tube stuff.


What could be causing our air conditioner circuit breaker to keep tripping?

Too small a temperature swing on the thermostat can cause this issue as well.  Many electronic thermostats have an adjustable temperature swing of 0.5, 1, 2 degrees.  If this value is set too low and the compressor is restarted too soon (less than 10-15 minutes) after a cycle, it can trip a breaker as the compressor struggles to start against a pressurized system.  This setting is also known as differential, anticipation, or hysteresis.


In order of my personal preference:

Option 1: Go Go Gadget Screws
Get longer screws that reach the framing. Don't run them in so tight as to pull the jamb out of position. All-thread screws might bite into the jamb somewhat to prevent movement.

Option 2: A Square Peg in a Round Hole
Fill the holes with wood glue and tap in wood "dowels" shaved from a scrap block. They don't need to be perfectly round but should fit snugly. Let it dry well and re-drill with a 1/8" bit.

Option 3: Bulk Up for Success
Procure screws with the same head size but a larger shank. They're somewhat specialty, so try an old-school hardware store rather than a home improvement box.

Option 4: See You on the Flipside
Drill and countersink the hinge holes in an opposing stagger pattern. Pilot with 1/8" bit.


It looks like your generator has an internal ground fault between winding L1 and earth.  It's not so bad when the generator is unloaded, but load just causes it to short dead.

Normally this would put it in a battle with the neutral-ground bond that would result in a breaker trip... but it looks like your neutral-ground bond is cheese.


What is the purpose of framing a recessed medicine cabinet?

That framing is included for three reasons:  #1 It is there to support the wall board.  The wall board is not strong enough to support itself at its edges or beyond 16". Wherever you find an edge of the finished wall board you should find some kind of framing behind it. This helps the edges of the wall board to butt together nicely.  #2 The framing is there and should be connected to the existing wall framing to support the medicine cabinet.  The wall board is not considered strong enough to support anything on its own.  The medicine cabinet would never hang true and plumb for long, hung from the wall board alone.  That is the job of the framing. #3 Even though this may not be a load bearing wall, once you eliminate one or two of the continuous studs, you have now compromised the integrity of the wall.  Now the finished wall surface may never be able to look really good. It can show buckles and creases because the framing inside the wall is out of alignment, i.e. no longer straight and true. Quality carpenters understand that everything they do and the quality thereof affects the final look and outcome of every project.


How do I connect several led strips to build a single light panel?

You have all the right parts.

If you didn't want to dim them, this would be simple - just parallel them all to the power supply.

Since you do want to dim them, you need to think about how dimming works.  These products are generally PWM dimmers which pulse the LEDs on and off, and the percentage of "on" time decides the brightness.  LED amplifiers take this as an input, and pulse their outputs exactly the same.  So, the output of the PWM dimmer can be "power" to LED strips, "signal" to amplifiers, or a little of both.

This particular amplifier is 192W, but it's also RGB, which means it's 3 channels (red, green, blue) at apparently 64W per channel.  I'd send the same (monochrome) PWM signal to all three RGB inputs, and drive white LED strips off each output.

120v power to your power supply.
12v power to both the dimmer and the amplifier.
Dimmer output split to all 3 inputs on the RGB amplifier.
Dimmer output also drives two LED strips, in parallel.
Each of the RGB outputs of the amplifier drives two LED strips, in parallel.

Alternate which strips are powered by which source, so the 8 strips are powered something like RGDBRDGB.  That way, if one channel fails, the strips which fail will be some distance apart and it won't leave such an obvious dead spot on your panel.

The common Chinese dimmers have a limited dynamic range, i.e. they can't go "very dim", they just turn off if you go below a certain brightness.  This can be annoying.  For this reason, I suggest adding a cutout switch on the signal to the amplifier. That will disable its 6 LED strips, leaving the 2 driven directly off the dimmer.  That is why I suggest distributing them strategically so they can do a reasonable job lighting the panel alone.  This is a soft limit of cheap Chinese dimmers - if you are creating that PWM signal yourself using an Arduino or whatnot, you can go as dim as you care to.  Just try to keep the pulse frequency as high as possible, certainly over 200Hz, so it isn't visible to the naked eye.


Why is it important to have a receptacle next to load centers?

Convenience
It is simply convenient to have a functional receptacle near the panel to plug in equipment. No requirement as far as I know, but trivially easy to add and very useful.
No reason that it needs to be dedicated unless it is being used for a specific appliance with high current requirements. But if it is just a convenience receptacle with nothing normally plugged into it then it can be on any circuit that itself can be shared - i.e., that rules out the kitchen countertop receptacle circuits and bathroom receptacle circuit. However, as Harper noted, there are advantages at times to having this receptacle be on a circuit all by itself, so if you can spare a circuit to do that, it is a good idea - and just the cost of an extra breaker - to put this receptacle on its own circuit.
Also keep in mind that depending on location it will likely require AFCI and/or GFCI, though if the receptacle is already in place then you normally don't need to upgrade it unless you are making changes to the circuit.


Pretty straightforward, solve one problem at a time.

Establishing the switch and downline receptacles as a unit

In North America we only bother switching the hot wire.

So the cable to your downline outlets: the Hot wire lands on one of the switch screws.  Get a 6-8" pigtail of black wire and attach it to the other switch screw.

Now you have 2 wires in play: the hot pigtail, and the neutral wire that comes from the downline outlets.  These are the hot+neutral pair that you need to supply power to.

Attach this pair to any power source.

The GFCI+receptacle as power source

Assuming the GFCI+receptacle has been powered up via its LINE terminals, it can supply protected power to other devices via its LOAD terminals.

Land your pair on the LOAD terminals and you should be all set.


well pressure switch in barn, pressure tank in house

Without knowing the whole circumstance of what you want to do or the complete set-up of piping & control, allow me to say that the location of the bladder tank does not matter as long as you can control the operation of the well pump. I think that the best answer would be to bury the water line between the barn and house deep enough to prevent it from freezing and to move the tank and pressure switch to he house.  You could dig a trench and put the water line and any wiring in that trench. This way nothing will freeze.


Are those decorative LED bulbs? Some LEDs do not play nice with analog (old-school rheostat) dimmers.

You'll want a LED dimmer switch, or verify that the LED bulbs you have are dimmable (some are, some are not).


Do I need both contacts to open/close on a centrifugal switch?

Surgo I understand the goal I repaired a similar motor not long ago 1-1/2 Hp on a 56 motor frame Dayton brand.
The contact set in my unit was 120/240v in the low voltage connection only 1 contact was needed (to tell the truth I did not look to see if it was different for 240v)
These centrifugal switches are used across many sizes and brands.
I got the machine running again by changing over to the unused contact.
I needed a backup or better repair and then found an aftermarket centrifugal switch assembly for under 15$ (I Could not find the correct one on grangers website).
Google or whatever search engine Search for centrifugal motor switch they are sized in mm so you will need your motor shaft size in mm I believe they had 1/2 inch through 1.5”. for example I needed a 16.5 I think it was a L16 it screwed right in.  This was cheaper than $235.00 for a new motor,  35$ Later I had a new motor 2 bearings and the switch.
You may want to check your bearings because end play is what damaged my switch.
I did look for your wiring configuration and came up empty so you may have to trace the connections on the board to the windings they may not be connected as mine were not. They could have a combination of changing the coil configuration + a capacitor and at the time of manufacturing it just used dual contacts where only 1 is needed to bring the cap in and start winding.
If the start winding is held in the motor will overheat because of the extra field coil that provides the torque to start.  so look at the configuration it may be fine but you need to know or you will let the magic smoke out if left on for long.


Removing knockouts in composite granite sink

As brutal as it seems, the prescribed method by FRANKE is to use a blunt ended large punch and a hammer.  Set the punch dead center in the cutout and strike it soundly. Don't be too tentative, give it a good shot! Place the punch on the top. If you have a carbide hole saw, pilot a small hole dead center from the side already drilled then finish it off from the top, using the pilot hole.

When I first saw my plumber do this on a kitchen job, I cringed, but it worked well. Weren't there any instructions with your sink?  I'm just relating the way FRANKE recommends, maybe your brand has a different method.


I had black mold in my sunroom, and my solution was to hit it with bleach (mixed with water), then to scrap it off and remove it from the areas. I then hit the area with "Mold Control" from Home Depot (as it helps also prevent the spread of mold. I did this to the effected area plus 1m on either side. Then I painted over it with a mold-proof paint (talk to people in your area who can best advise stuff for your region and colour).

I hope this helps. But importantly, use proper PPE use a mask that blocks that stuff and googles! Be safe man!


Will an expansion tank and water pressure regulator work over periods of non-use?

When you get your expansion tank installed this leakage at the P&T relief valve will stop. The pressure regulator will keep the pressure at your set point of 50 to 70 psi.

The pressure is currently building up in your system because as the water in the tank is heated (especially after a large drawdown) the VOLUME of the trapped water increases more than the volume of the tank as the water is heated in the tank. The volume does not increase indefinitely but stops when the water in the tank is heated to the set-point and the burner or heating element in the heater turns off.

You could prevent this increase right now by letting a cold tap drip until the heater turns off after large draw-down. Probably letting out as little as 3 or 4 cups out a cold tap would keep the pressure down. This would cause this same small volume of hot water to back up into the cold supply, but this is of no consequence.


The color really is not a concern in US residential wiring. Well if it is listed and properly installed.
Halogen lighting will get hot but a UL listed fixture for homes in the US would be limited to 20 amps and the fixture wiring to the lamp would be a special type of wire that would be ok with #12 Romex to the junction box. No matter what size or color feed ,,, white,, yellow or orange with todays cable colors of the fixture was listed for the wire size (usually white 15 amp) and UL listed brittle wires is not a problem. Orange or 10 gauge is good for 30 amps. This is what most water heaters and dryers run on.

Ok ,,, ok , I know I am getting long here but a UL listed fixture won’t have the problems when properly installed so is it a ? ?? Product or a miswired install???? The fixture should have a junction box where the Romex connects to the fixture wire(this wire can take the heat)  ... if not UL listed with proper connections get ready for failure of the fixture, because 10 awg wiring can drive a 10kw lamp at my plant that on a 50’ pole will light the infield of a baseball with out getting warm.  Ok not halogen but a listed fixture properly installed only needs a white cable on a 15 amp breaker,,, nnnot listed good luck if you have a fire.
 + + to Isherwood for white 15 & orange 30.


Changing a 3 gang Australian light switch to a Smart switch

Unfortunately, your switch is wired using the '3 plate' or 'switch loop' method, so you don't have a neutral available at the switch.

You will need to either get a switch that doesn't require a neutral, or run a new cable to the light that the feed comes from - the two core cable.


I'm not sure if this exists or not.

Probably not.
However, you have an X Y Problem

I'm trying to build a piece of furniture that I can take apart quickly/easily and set up again in another apartment.

Commonly used solutions include
Furniture bolts

Mitre bolts

Knock-down fittings
AKA furniture blocks

Cam lock bolts

Woodworking Joints
See https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3305/creating-a-speaker-stand-using-only-joins/3306#3306


osb - Do I start the first sheet 5/8" out from edge?

I'm not entirely sure I'm grasping all the details here but in general I would say its better to go flush to the edge. Here's how you could lay it out mathematically speaking, but I'm not sure this is the most efficient way to go about it. Also I've never heard of doing an 1/8" space on sheathing, that just seems like an invitation for leaks, not to mention that if your osb is 96" and you add an 1/8 between every sheet your layout will creep systemically and you'll be off your 16" centers in short order. Full disclosure: I'm not a roofer so you might want to find someone with firmer answers than I've got. Hope this helps, cheers.


Can I install 72W A19 halogen into a 60W-looking socket?

If the fan light fixture is newer and meets EPAct05 compliance then there will be a circuit in place to limit the total power to 190W. Exceeding that total wattage should cause the circuit to interrupt the current. I believe the circuit should reset itself when power is removed, load reduced, and power restored.

However, I had one fan light fixture for which I had installed CFLs. The fixture wasn't rated for CFL use and the EPAAct05 prevention device got fried and permanently opened.

EPA Standards for Ceiling Fan Light Kits


Two legs won't stand up by themselves. It works for a person, but that has a lot to do with center of gravity and the brain helping keep the body stable. Two sticks of metal and a slab of wood need a bit of help.
You generally won't find anything with one or two legs standing by itself, unless each leg has a much larger base attached. Think about a typical small round table. It has one leg, but the bottom will typically be a circle several inches (or more) in diameter, sometimes deliberately weighted for stability.
The solution for a table that will be up against a wall is to use some mounting brackets under one of the shelves to attach the table to the wall, ideally into studs if the walls are typical (for the US) drywall over wood frame. Done right, the legs will still support the bulk of the weight and the brackets will provide stability, so the brackets don't need to be nearly as large as they would be to support shelves without legs.


Is it safe to discharge a water softener into a saltwater swimming pool?

It will depend what's in your water, among other things - the last place I used a softener, the clear water iron made the softener discharge a very rusty orange. Not exactly appealing for a pool.

If you add salt to a salt-water pool that is presumably losing water primarily via evaporation, it will become hyper-saline over time. I'm not sure how much this would be regarded as a problem in a salt-water pool - perhaps you want it to be like the dead sea - very buoyant.

Even if you don't have iron turning the discharge water rusty, the calcium removed by the softener will accumulate in the pool, and may cause some water quality problems there.

On the whole it seems more likely than not to be a bad idea, but if you are determined to go ahead with it, I'd suggest that you start by catching a bucket of the discharge water and let it sit for a few days, to see if that offers you any insight on what you get with your particular water.


What does this square icon mean on my Honeywell thermostat?

We'd be able to know for sure with the correct model number, but assuming all Honeywell thermostats follow the same icon structure then this indicates that the Smart Response™ technology is off.

Source: Honeywell CT8602 manual

According to this similar thermostat's manual, Smart Response™ this does the following:

  Keeps you comfortable by automatically calculating exactly when the furnace or air conditioning should go on to
  have the house at the desired comfort temperature by the time you wake up or return home.
  Saves the maximum amount of energy and money by automatically remembering to adjust the temperature when
  you leave home or go to sleep.


It looks like the screw in the center is missing (the hole in the center of the piece that says "off").  I would try pulling on that center part to remove it (the screw that was there probably was to hold it in place but now that it is gone it should come off... easier said than done).  You will probably need to pull fairly hard or even use a screw driver to slowly pry it off (especially if it has been on for a long time it might take some work to get it off).  Then once that center piece comes off you should see the other screws that are holding the rest of the unit on.


Can you fix scratches in Little Tykes furniture?

Buffing followed by acid etch (to restore texture).  Overall a pretty rough job.  You'll want to check the plastic type (found next to a 'recycling' symbol usually) for additional guidance.  LDPE is common.  Some people use heat guns, but for maximum potential entertainment value why not try a blowtorch?  LDPE is actually pretty hard to set on fire.


How to remove broken light protector/cover from inside oven?

Good news - it came off!

A Hot air gun was useless as was a butane torch - I suspect the heat was not softening anything and the adhesives were well and truely burned on.  Perhaps spraying cold water on the hot glass might have helped crack it, but read on.

In the end I used a teatowel in one hand to cup the entire fitting and then pushed an "automatic punch" against the lip, and one piece cracked out on the first try.  Against the other side, it took a dozen hits before breaking the same way, with a vertical crack and a chunk out.

I left the lamp in place to protect the socket from any damage.  Its already got oil burned on the glass.

So then I could simply unscrew the remainder and it fell out in two pieces after one rotation, which I caught in the teatowel.

Not sure if it was the increased grip, or if it was the shock which broke the hold but it turned freely after that.

Despite using a damp catching cloth, there were heaps of tiny glass shards in the bottom of the oven.   Had I attempted to use heat and cold to crack the glass, it could have made a bigger mess.

Careful cleanup is required here - glass fragments are no fun near food.


Do two 5k BTU air conditioners produce the same cooling power as one 10k BTU unit?

The 10k A/C will have a larger compressor, but only one fan, one control circuit, etc.  Two 5k A/Cs will have two smaller compressors, two of everything.

I suspect that as a result, the 10k will be more efficient overall.  What you should look at is the power consumption of each - then double the 5k.  I expect that overall the 10k will run for less than 2 5ks - but I may be wrong.  Depends on the power drain of the various components...


Sanding is going to take a huge amount of time and for an IKEA bed I don't think it will be worth it. I think I would just paint it with white primer and then the colour you want.


Hardwood floors cupping even after replacement

Solid wood flooring in a wet area is inherently risky due to the moisture everywhere.
Pine flooring (a moisture-absorbent softwood) is inherently risky to install.
Solid boards are inherently more prone to cupping than engineered boards.
Gluing a wood floor to concrete is inherently risky because concrete is a big sponge that absorbs and releases moisture in an unpredictable and uncontrollable manner.
Gluing a wood floor to anything is inherently risky because this install method allows air movement over the top of the wood, but not the bottom, encouraging moisture to congregate there.
Laying anything moisture-sensitive on top of concrete after it's been newly-cast is inherently risky because of how it gives off moisture for a while.
Very wide boards (6" and above) are inherently more risky to install as a floor, as they are inherently more prone to cupping if they were plain or flat sawn. This is especially true of solid wood, but it can affect engineered wood with a thick veneer layer. I recently examined a sample of a 7" wide engineered board with a 4mm oak veneer layer of Chinese origin and noticed it was already ever so slightly cupping. Stay away from the really wide stuff unless you know it's of extremely high quality.
Finally, old "reclaimed" wood is usually marked by imperfections and "character." That's the whole point! It is likely that this wood was not of especially high quality to begin with when it was first installed however many tens or hundreds of years ago. "Rustic" or "Antique" wood is usually not noted for its level of precision or moisture resistance compared to modern materials. Back then, the solution to moisture problems was to make everything as leaky and air-permeable as possible to permit rapid drying. When you seal up an old building with vapor barriers and insulation without solving the underlying moisture problem, it often begins to rot. The same kind of thing seems to be happening here where one face of your boards are totally sealed up but the opposite face is exposed to moisture.

In isolation, a couple of these factors are probably no big deal, but when you combine all of them together, you have a recipe for a high chance of failure. If there is any way to install your floor properly, it would probably be as a nail-down install over a poorly-laid, air-permeable wood subfloor with an open space below it (e.g. solid boards with gaps between them and a basement underneath, not OSB sheeting over concrete), and with appropriate expectations of its quality and dimensional stability.

I would guess that in your slab on grade house, an engineered wood floor made of boards 5" wide or less with an oak veneer top layer installed as a floating floor above a waterproof underlayment would experience no problems whatsoever.


As I understand your description:

The GFCI protection device is in one location in the kitchen
The circuit breaker in the main panel does NOT have GFCI protection built in (if it does then things are a bit more complicated having double-protection)

Three possibilities:

Bad Appliance

Before doing anything else, disconnect EVERYTHING from all of the affected kitchen outlets. If you can then reset the GFCI and the outlets function then you have a faulty appliance - plug each appliance back in until you find the problem. It is quite possible that there is an intermittent ground fault so that things could work for a while and then stop working. But in the end, if you have a faulty appliance then either fix it or throw it away.

Replacing the GFCI and troubleshooting other outlets should be done with the circuit breaker turned off for safety:

Bad wiring or outlet on "load" of GFCI outlet

All the other affected outlets should be connected to the load side of the GFCI outlet. To determine whether the problem is in the GFCI device or one of the other outlets, disconnect the wires from the load screws. If the GFCI can be reset and the outlet works then you know the problem is on the load side. If that is the case then you need to reconnect the load wires and check the wires to each outlet one at a time until you find the culprit. One thing to watch for is back-stab connections - if you find any then switch to using the screw terminals as they are more reliable. Loop connections are OK if installed properly - tightened well, correct amount of insulation removed, but pigtail connections (which require a little more work) are better.

If a new GFCI does not work - or if you feel like checking before installing a new GFCI: Check the wiring going in to the line side of the GFCI to see if it is live. The safest way to do this is with a non-contact tester. If the wiring is not live and the breaker in the main panel has not tripped then you have a wiring problem somewhere in between the breaker and the GFCI.

Bad GFCI device

The outlet with the GFCI device may simply be going bad. That can happen. It is fairly straightforward to replace one, and that is often the simplest way to diagnose the problem. If the problem goes away with a new GFCI outlet then either the old one was bad or the wiring into the old one (which should have been checked by the electrician) was bad.


How do I cosmetically resurface a bathtub to get rid of a greenish / pinkish hue?

I suspect the off color of green/pink may be from chlorine or fluoride added to the water supply.  Does any of the bathing soap products you use have green dye in them?

You didn't mention what your tub was made from. Porcelain  or fiberglass? In either case, I would try a product called CLR first. This is good for removing hard water stains.  The second product I would try is Barkeepers Friend.  This product has an ultra fine polishing compound and ascilic  acid, which does a great job removing scum, stains and restoring a shine to most any hard surface. It is safe to use on either material.


What should I use to reattach loose tile?

To re-secure ceramic tiles it is best to consider what environment it will be subject to. If, for example, I am re-attaching a loose wall tile in a shower stall I wouldn't use a "mastic" type adhesive.  I've seen repairs fail when mastic gets wet.     For shower stalls with a solid backing go with any fortified thin set mix. Some people have claimed construction adhesive works, but as with the mastic the dampness may affect the bond. In a pinch I've had very good results with 100 % silicone caulking.     Which ever one you decide on the location of the tile should be  clean from the original grout and adhesive. Scrape down to the cement or backer board and wipe with a wet sponge (let area dry if you use silicone). Press tile with buttered adhesive into the cleaned location, use appropriate tile spacers if necessary, support with painters tape (for horizontal repairs). Finally, check tile by pressing  with a level so it sits at the proper   height.


How should I level the ground for my above ground pool?

You should dig down on the high side, instead of building up the low side. Or build up the low side in a more sound manner, though that will likely cost more than $100.


Is black residue on wiring cause for concern?

The "tar" is not a concern, it sounds like the box you described is an old work box they are listed and legal, they are held in by small stops or wings that hold the box to the sheetrock.


Is it possible to fit skirting boards with screws into the wall

UPDATED:

I misread about the masonry walls. I've actually installed base trim using trim screws and plastic plug anchors. It works fine, but the holes in the trim are larger.

ORIGINAL:

Glue is only used for joints, and nails pull out of the wall fairly easily when the boards are removed. They can then be pulled through the boards from the back side so the boards can be reused.

You can certainly use screws, but the holes will be much larger and therefore more difficult to conceal.

In general, trim isn't installed with the expectation that it'll be regularly removed.


Can I install lower-rated fixture sockets to meet the rated current threshold for dimmer switches?

You'll want a pro to help you with dimming.  Dimming LEDs is complicated -- well that's not true, native LEDs dim far better than any other type.  The problem is most screw-in LED bulbs are designed to "play well" with dimmers which also must play well with incandescent... and this results in extreme inelegance.

All that to say, if you use screw-in LED "bulb" replacements, you may be disappointed with the dimming.  However at the commercial / industrial level with fixed-LED (non-bulb) luminaires, there is much better tech, such as digital or 0-10V dimming controls, that really use LEDs up to their potential.  Don't be afraid of non-removable bulbs, LED emitters will outlive the building.

If you have plenty of extra panel space, I would not worry about reducing the number of circuits, because it costs money to do so, and why mess with a working system.  Remember if you have an Edison socket, some dimbulb  could screw in a 100W incandescent, then you must provision for that load on both the power supply and the dimmers/controllers.

If you must use sockets, use candelabra, as you can provison those For 40W as it's difficult to get incandescents above 40W. Strong LEDs are readily available at sane prices.  Don't waste your time with GU24 or any of the odd-duck sockets, the "bulbs" cost a fortune and the sockets will be gone soon.


What size breaker should I use in the main panel for a sub-panel with four 15A breakers?

If you are running a proper sub-panel on the North American model (i.e. 240V + neutral and ground) a 30A double-pole breaker and 10Ga wire will permit 4 15A 120V circuits to run at full capacity.

If you are using existing wire, that sets the upper limit of what you can feed it with, whether or not that is adequate for your needs. Else, you will be replacing the wire to meet your needs.

If the panel might be expanded later (i.e. 4 circuits now, but with space for additional circuits) and you use larger wire, you can feed it up to the ampacity of the feed wire and/or sub-panel rating.

If you are running a single-phase (120V) feed you will probably not be happy, and you would need large wire to feed it anywhere near full capacity - which is why the normal/"proper" method is a 240V feed.


It is totally possible for thermal expansion to back some hot water into your regular cold water supply. A check valve will prevent this but you are correct in that this could cause an unwanted (potentially damaging) increase in pressure on the hot water side of the system.

You should look into installing a thermal expansion tank if this is enough of a problem for you as to consider installation of a check valve. It is a fairly simple and inexpensive solution; do an internet search and you will find a lot of information. Check with your local permitting authority to see if this is a DIY install, or call a licensed plumber.


How can I improve my crawlspace's heating efficiency in the winter?

When I lived in Ohio I had my water heater and a pressure tank in a room under my front porch, their was a full basement. Trying to save some $ used foam board insulation around the two and used a small milk house heater on low set to ~ 40 degrees. then I had pipes in the floor freeze, I used heat tape it was a self regulating kind for use under a floor of a house I think it was made by 3m but that was many years back, after putting in the “foam room” and 2 strips of the heat tape our power bill dropped by 50$ a month and we never had another frozen pipe. My neighbor had a similar setup but used a heat lamp 300w but he did not know when it burned out and still had frozen pipes. I think the small heater was better because it had a thermostat, he said the heat lamp was better because it only drew 300w my heater was 1k or so on low and I use a similar heater today in my pump house they last a really long time if not turned All the way up and moved around. so that would be my suggestion a small insulated space and heater , then self regulating heat tape , make sure it is made for use under the floor, the last batch I purchased was by easy heat called freeze free, you have to buy ends separately but you cut it to length and it is listed for use under mobile homes and they are the fastest burning structures I know of, I only started using it 2 months ago but the end kits are way easier than the 3m type I have used in the past. (No connection to either product just make sure to find one for inside use)


How do I provide heating to a room without existing plumbing?

Just go up. The 2 ceilings get a moderate slit for a lot of drilling & short sections of piping with a wall & ceiling corner chunk-out to drop down for the new rads.

And, if the current piping is old then tie in the existing rad to avoid any near-future failures. That piping would be parallel to the joists & you'd just need a chunk-out at the bearing wall & above the existing rad.

Tedious, but gets it done & the ceilings are the easiest to repair compared to everything else.


I could find no fittings to do what I needed to. I ended up cutting the entire assembly off at the main and rebuilding it from scratch to gain the inch I needed.


Why isn't my new toilet flushing system working as well as the old one?

I replaced the systems in all 3 toilets of my current house when I moved in, and I have had endless minor problems with them since. "They don't make 'em like they used to".  I get double flushes about have the time and keep tweaking the flapper settings.  I am about to start replacing them again with high-end adjustable flush systems.  Anyway, the height of the refill tube, and the height of the water is key to a good flush. Regardless of how much water you use per flush, you want the water to be as high as possible when you flush.  Some systems have shorter refill tubes than others.  And you want the water to come within about an inch of the top of the tube, but not higher than the water line from the valve, or it will siphon water continually.


How to connect a new thermostat with different terminals than the old one?

R = RH for you

Simply connect the wire that connected to RH on the old thermostat to the R terminal on the new thermostat, and then connect the wire that connected to W on the old thermostat to W on the new thermostat, and you should be good to go.


Problem with outdoor gfi to switch to outdoor pond pump

Check for a neutral-to-ground short somewhere downstream

The behavior you're describing (a GFCI resetting fine, but tripping instantly when any load is applied) is symptomatic of a neutral-to-ground fault in the wiring on the LOAD terminals. I'd unhook and nut off the wires currently attached to LOAD, and then see if the GFCI resets and powers a load at this point.

If it does, then you'll probably need to replace your buried cable run; note that it's no good to use UF for a pond pump branch circuit, as its ground wire is bare, which violates NEC 682.31(A):

  (A) Type. Equipment grounding conductors shall be insulated copper conductors sized in accordance with 250.122 but
  not smaller than 12 AWG.

As a result, I'd redo this run using PVC conduit with individual THHN/THWN insulated wires (black, white, green) inside it; this fixes the Code issue with your existing install, in any case, for that matter.


The electric oven is a high-power appliance and should have it's own outlet that has its own breaker.  I don't know anything about the electric code in Brazil, but it may even require this.

If you want other low-power outlets nearby, you can group a few on a single modest breaker.  That gives better overall protection, since the trip current for the small appliances will be less than it would be otherwise.  It also isolates better the voltage sag and other issues caused by the high power appliance.


Given the nearby stairs and doorways, raising the floor outside the bathroom obviously isn't a good option. The only thing to do now is fashion a transition strip.

Given the already extreme height of the transition, a typical L-molding (that would lap onto the tile) is inadvisable. I'd use a heavy piece of finished hardwood that coordinates with your home's trim and simply stand it along the face of the step. It could be 3/4" stock, but 5/4 or two-by would probably look better at that height.

____________________
           |         \
           |          \
  bathroom |  trans.   |
  floor    |  strip    |
           |           |
           |           |
           |           |
           |           |

How much bevel you use depends on the orientation of the transition with respect to the door opening. I'd consider tapering it down up to an inch if you have room inside the door jamb. I'd seek to avoid having the transition strip protrude into the hallway past the jamb edges.

Use construction adhesive to fasten it in place, then use a color-matched caulk to act as grout between the tile and the wood. A smaller gap is better here, regardless of the grout line width.


I used a continuity tester and found that

The right wire #1 comes from the switch. The switch's other wire is the hot, so when the switch is turned on, the power flows through the switch, then to this wire that feeds this outlet on that right wire.
The bottom-left wire #3 comes from the other outlet, and it's a neutral in that outlet, so basically it is the continuation of that outlet's neutral. (I'm not sure why they hooked it up this way rather than using a cap to tie it together with a pigtail to the outlet? But I guess electrically it's the same. I think I will rewire it the way I'm used to seeing.)
The top-left wire #2 must be the neutral.

As far as why there's voltage on #3, I'm baffled! I don't know how hacky this is but I used my jumper cables to hook to the grounding rod outside so I had a definite ground (this is a 2 prong outlet so I didn't know what else to use as ground), then tested the wires and #1 had 120V as expected with the switch on, but #3 had 70V even when it was disconnected from this outlet! I'm going to have to call an electrician to investigate this further because I have no clue why.


Replacing both 3-way switches I found 2 hot wires one in each box

Two ways to connect 3-way switches and load. Firt feed and load in same junction box. Second feed and load connected in different boxes. In second only three wires run between boxes: two travelers and one phase return. So two wires live voltage.


What glue & screw/bolt/nut to use to fix the bathtub drain overflow?

By design, this assembly is not supposed to need any glue or caulking. The gray gasket on the overflow horn (visible in pic) is supposed to press and seal against the back of the tub wall, and the white gasket on the overflow strainer is supposed to press (no need to seal the front, it's just a cushion) against the front of the tub wall.
If it were me, I would:

remove the threaded post from the overflow horn
discard the original overflow strainer and cover plate
install a new cover plate using a new screw with the same thread as the old threaded post:

It is important to understand that the seal between the horn and the back of the tub wall is what is important, to keep any incidental splashing water (or, god forbid, an actual overflow) from leaking in the back, to the floor below. The presence of silicone caulk back there (visible in pic) is distressing because it could interfere with the gray gasket sealing against the back of the tub wall. I would try to remove that clear caulking as best I could...


Is this 230v motor wired for 115v operation

A 120v motor cannot be installed in place of the motor shown.  This is a single voltage PSC condenser fan motor nominally rated for 200-230v only and it is not intended to be wired for 115v.

Also, there is probably no 120v circuit available in the location where the motor is being used.  Double no.  In other words, hooking up a 120v motor in place of this unit would be a no-no.

This is a very ordinary condenser fan motor with compatible replacements stocked by many supply houses.  When replacing this motor, the run capacitor should also be replaced at the same time because run capacitors are often in poor condition by the time this type of motor fails, and the new replacement motor may require a run capacitor that is a different size than the original.


The system was designed with a different philosophy: rather than turn 4 lights off, dim all to 50%.  Now you want to reinvent that.  OK.

There are two ways I can think of.  One is to rewire the ceiling, which involves a lot of fishing, luck, and/or demolition and reconstruction of the finished ceiling.  You may need a bigger switch box to accommodate 2 switches, because I have not seen duplex dimmer switches meant to fit in a 1-gang box.

The other way is to use home-automation technology to make each lamp individually addressible.  Then use a smart switch for coarse control, or an "app" on a compatible smart device (iPod/iPhone/android) for very precise control (e.g. Lights 2, 7 and 8 on 40%, light 6 on 100%).  They don't like us to recommend particular brands or peoducts here since questions tend to be archived for a long time, but you'll find plenty on the market.

If you're swinging toward replacing with smart fixtures, think about also making the leap to LED.  They are finally market-ready with a good selection in color temp and CRI at a sane price, considering they will outlast the house.


Moving electrical panel. Do I need to rewire all circuits?

Yes.  I fit steel junction boxes in places the old wires can reach.  Then run EMT conduit between the panel and those boxes.  No more than 3 circuits (MWBC counts as 1) in each conduit and use 3/4" conduit, for easy pulling and future expansion. NEC limits each conduit run to 9 conductors (4 circuits: grounds and MWBC neutrals do not count) unless you upsize conductors.  I'd use the biggest boxes I can get, no smaller than deep 4" 2-gang boxes, because they will be full of splices.   I use THHN/THWN through the conduit to the panel.  Terminate grounds at the ground lug in the junction box, or run a wire. EMT is a ground path.

But try this.  Leave the panel where it is, and install a sub-panel in public or tenant space.  In fact, forward-think: if in the future you wanted to set up the tenant with a separate meter, what could you do now (cheaply) that would make that cheaper and easier later?   Setting them up with a sub-panel easily converted into a new main panel, would be awesome all around.   This isn't necessarily a large investment, mostly just forethought to not paint yourself into a corner.

Honestly I'm surprised your GC is trying to feather-bed the project with unneeded work when the sub-panel is a really worthy effort.


How can I calculate how large an airconditioner my house needs?

You'll want to check out the ENERGY STAR Air Conditioning Sizing Calculator.


Water entering into fireplace during rain

It sounds like your chimney cap top might have flew off for that much water to come in.  Mine just a few months ago and I had to secure it with extra screws.  I would check that first.

If it is only coming inside the chimney it really has to be top of the cap or that you need caulking around the base of your cap.


I have two cables going into a ceiling electrical box; how can I tell which is coming from the panel?

Turn off the appropriate breaker
Make sure, with a non-contact tester, that all the wires are "dead"
Take pictures of the wires as currently installed, so you know what goes where
Disconnect the wires and cap them with wire nuts for safety
Turn on the breaker
Check with a non-contact tester to determine which wires have power

As others have noted, non-contact testers can give false positive readings. That is good from a safety standpoint, but sometimes gets in the way of figuring things out! If a non-contact tester shows both cables "live" even after they are disconnected from each other, then either one is a false positive or there is something really wrong - unusual but possible. The next test is with a multimeter to check voltage. That eliminates some, but not all, phantom readings. If a multimeter shows one of the cables with a low-but-not-zero voltage, that is typically a phantom voltage. But if it shows something close to the usual 120V, it could be real. The final test is to (carefully, doing any actual connecting/disconnecting of wires with the breaker safely off) put a load into the circuit. With a light fixture, the simplest thing is to connect only one of the cables and see what you get. If that shows "live" then disconnect it and connect the other cable and see what you get. Of course, a switch (if properly wired) complicates things too. Sometimes the solution is to think through the possibilities logically, carefully and methodically to figure out what is actually going on.


How to repair this kitchen drawer front panel?

Metal corner braces will work to some degree, but will be hideous. I recently rebuilt one in my home that had been repaired that way. You'll see them every time you open the drawer, along with the torn-out face of the panels.

I would cut a new board (solid wood, plywood, particle board) exactly the size of the inner dimensions of the drawer, and mount it to the back side of the drawer front using countersunk flathead screws and glue. This will then slide into the drawer when the front is put in place, giving you solid mounting and covering the damaged surfaces.

Carefully pilot and countersink flathead screws from the sides and bottom of the drawer to attach the drawer front via this new board. Glue would be a good idea here, too.

Plan view:

 |  |                 |  |
 |  |                 |  |
 |  |     new block   |  |
 |  |        |        |  |
 |  | ________________|  |
 |__||_______________||__|
|_________________________|
             |
             |
        drawer front


Any difference for a pressure-assisted toilet?

It looks like there's no difference in plumbing requirements from this installation guide.
This regular toilet installation guide lists the drain and vent requirements:

it requires its own 2" minimum vent and a drain of at least 3" in diameter

As far as retrofitting a pressure assist vessel into an old gravity flush toilet, I wouldn't try it. Pressure assist toilets are designed differently than gravity flush ones. Flushmate's website warns:

The FLUSHMATE® Pressure-Assist system cannot be retrofitted into a standard, gravity-fed toilet.

There might be a retrofit kit out there somewhere, but I'd be wary about how well it would work.


What type of contractor would I hire to level a concrete floor?

I feel that you should dive a bit deeper and resolve the root cause of your problem. 2" of subsidence seems to indicate a bit more work than simply using a self leveling material, you have support/foundation problems. Consult a professional foundation remediation contractor to see if you can get an idea of what the cause is. I would hate to see you "level" it only to have it rise or subside again, undoing your work and money.


Do I need to remove all carpet adhesive residue before using a floor leveler?

Assuming this is a floating vinyl floor (as originally posted), you need to scrape away the high spots, lay down an underlayment that has vapour barrier with foam and optionally felt to provide a smoothing cushion.
For planks, there's no need to prime or scrape bare.
As for flatness and smoothness, the manufacturer will specify it, but usually anything less than 1/16in is not a problem, and some bowing and bending over several multiples of the plank length or its width is tolerated quite well.
If you are flattening with self-leveling cement, for whatever reason, you have to scrape the concrete bare, entirely.
As for a concrete or cement primer, read the label on the self-leveling cement: some don't need primer and they are more expensive. Others require primer which you can add-in or roll-on to your surface.
Which one you choose depends a bit on how thick the layer will be: anything over 1/4 (very roughly) and it's more economical to roll it on first, otherwise you're just mixing very expensive cement.


Can I use green wire in a residential wall box?

Green wire is perfectly legit. If you are really lazy or in a hurry you can even get pre-cut pre-stripped green grounding pigtails ready to go.
Ground is the only thing it can be used for, but "green or bare" is fine for ground nearly everywhere (I think there are some hot tub/pool specific cases where green is required and bare is not OK, but I don't have any detailed familiarity with those installations as I don't have one.)
Incidentally, it's trivial to strip long lengths of wire with a utility knife if you clamp the end of the wire and pull as you cut. I opted to go full conduit and have been using the NM that was partially installed as grounds (where needed - most of the grounds are the EMT conduit itself), and can strip a 12 foot chunk in less than a minute. I detest the scam where the THHN inside NM cable is not labeled as THHN so it cannot be used any other way...


Will this 22" drawer slide replace the slide mounted to my 18" drawer?

I would use the correct size. Here is an 18" one. The 22" will be to long for the draw.

If you use the 18" it will fit the draw, but you will likely need to add wood to the side to allow a place to screw the track into.

EDIT:
You need to add a piece of wood to the side of the cabinet. That wood could be glued and clamped until set. Then screw the side track to that piece of wood.

You may be able to add a board stretching from side to side, then screw the end of the 18" track into that.

I see no easy way unless you find a place that sells that exact slide.

One more thought:
If you used the 22" slide and just fastened the first 18" that came in contact with the draw. It may mean drilling new holes in the slide however if the design is like I think it is, I think that would work. Then you could attach the slide to the front and back as original.


Will my gas meter accommodate the demands of a new tankless water heater?

The gas meter usually is not the problem it is the gas line either through the house or the connection size and the size of the line you install. A minimum 3/4" gas line to the new water heater is required. And the line you pipe into should be at least 1 inch. Any thing smaller and you will not have enough gas flow. The main gas line in the house should be at least 1 inch. You could call the gas company and see if they can raise the gas pressure to your house. 8 ounces used to be the maximum.