Should you chemically treat wood that is outside and under a roof?

No it is not dangerous to build houses with treated wood.    However treated wood will need different braces and fasteners to prevent rust.  Also treated wood has a lower load rating than non treated.

Wood is chemically treated for moisture resistance or for fire prevention.  If your house doesn't have excessive moisture or fire issues it probably does not have chemically treated lumber.

Also the black dots you describe seems like Artillery fungus to me.  This is a very very slow moving fungus that makes its way through wood.  I don't think it matters if the wood was chemically treated or not.   If it were my house I would scrape the fungus off and clean the area.


Installing a deadbolt on a door with a circular hole for the deadbolt location?

Do you have a deadbolt?  Try putting it in.  Although the bolt is rectangular, it is slightly smaller than the one inch hole so it should fit just fine.  The facing which guides the bolt screws into the edge of the door to hold it stable.  It is possible some chiseling will be needed to make the bolt's facing flush with the door.


How do I remove an IKEA shelf which is stuck on top of another?

Use the thinnest putty knife you can obtain to release the double stick tape.

To get the remaining adhesive off, I would first use a dry rag and try to rub it off. Always rub in the same direction. If that doesn't do it, I would then use "Goof Off", alcohol or acetone to remove the adhesive left behind - first testing a hidden area with the product to make sure you won't effect the shelf laminate. You never know, most laminates are very durable, but...

Heating the adhesive can also work, but you need to have some care as the shelf laminate is also glued on to the wood product.

Hopefully, with care, you can get it all off just with the putty knife, but you may damage the laminate if you go at it too hard, so think of it as a 2 or 3 step process.  good luck!


What to use as a screed edge along a brick wall?

The conventional way to handle this problem is to use a length of 1.5 or 2 inch diameter pipe as the screed reference level. This pipe sits on top of a series of stakes that you place in the ground in a line a few inches from the brick wall. The stakes are pounded in so that their tops are the pipe diameter below the intended concrete height. Two nails in the top of the stake are set in on the sides to keep the pipe from rolling off the stakes.

The pipe does not need to be the full length of your slab. Instead as you pour the concrete from one end you screed along and then can pull the pipe back to the next stake. After you pull the pipe you toss some additional concrete into the gap where the pipe was and float trowel that flat with the rest of the surface.

The small stakes and nail tops just stay in the base area of the concrete slab.

The idea to place the pipe say 6 inches away from the wall allows for easy back and forth working of the screed. (If you just had a thin board along the wall it would be very difficult to keep the screed on the top of that narrow board and there is no opportunity to use a sawing action of the screed which is necessary to work the pebbles in the concrete down from the surface).


Moisture, (and more precisely “condensation”) is the cause of sweating slab syndrome.

There are several causes: 1) lack of ventilation, 2) rapid change in Dew Point, 3) negative air pressure in living unit, 4) concrete slab sealed,

1) Air movement will “dry” moisture.

2) This is what I call, “The coke bottle effect.” If you take a coke bottle out of the refrigerator, it will immediately have condensation form on it. In your case, if your room is at 70 degrees with 50% relative humidity and a warm front moves in at 80 degrees and 80% relative humidity, then the Dew Point will change and NON-ABSORBENT surfaces will swear.

3) We design most buildings to have “positive” air pressure. If you have a negative air pressure, you’ll allow damp air into your environment which you’ll need to treat.

4) If your slab has been sealed, there’s no place for moisture to go, except lay on top of the slab.

You’ll need to experiment with fixing these items to correct sweating slab syndrome.


What miter and bevel angle do I need for coping 38/52 crown molding?

Cutting on the flat:

If you are cutting on the flat there are lots of mitre/bevel charts online like this one:

Cutting Nested:

Have you tried nesting your crown?

Hold the crown at the angle it would be on the wall, and just do a normal mitre (no need to worry about bevel).

This is how I prefer to cut it, but everyone has their preferences. You can buy different stops and clamps for setting this up to be quick and accurate (or make your own jig). As well as most saws nowadays have attachments for their saws for this.

Attachment:

V.S. Shop-made:


Given it's a hob, I'll guess UK or related, 240VAC countries. Doesn't really matter much, the answer holds for wherever you are.

Basically, a gas "hob" or cooktop or stove or range does not use much electrical power. So it will tend to have a small breaker and small, low capacity wiring. The heat comes from burning gas, not electricity.

Changing a gas hob to an electrical induction hob will require a complete refit from the breaker panel to the hob in order to have properly sized wire and breaker for the vastly larger electrical load, as you are now trying to make heat with electricity.


How should I use my humidifier's bypass option?

From the website:

  The summer shutoff damper on bypass units increases efficiency and saves energy. [...] The humidifier and the connecting water valve must be turned OFF at the end of each heating season. On bypass units, the shutoff damper should be turned to SUMMER.

More in the owner's manual.


This is fine
Ordinary light switches don't make any distinction between "line" and "load" sides; in fact, in North America, we mark the two "live" terminals on an ordinary wall switch identically (they're both brass screws, vs. the black screw used for the common terminal on a 3-way wall switch).  So, you can connect it either way around, and it'll still work.


Why did my basement start flooding while replacing sump pump?

You removed the 1 way check valve, likely part of the pump, when you cut the line to the pump.

Your sump being low, already had a syphon ready to go, it just needed one last push to get started.

The pump of one of your neighbors started and everything in the pipes of all 4 pipes came flowing into your sump.

Your son witnessed an excellent lesson in gravity and syphons. Far more impressive than anything he will be shown even in college physics.


Better quality filters generally will be directional. This is due to the filter containing a coarse and fine media or one side being reinforced with wire or mesh to support the filter against the flow of air. It may also be designed to flow air better in one direction. If you can feel or see a density difference between sides the least dense side should face out If the filter is not labeled it should install in either direction as there is likely no difference  from one side to the other


How do I remove 20 year old sun damaged tuck tape from PVC siding?


Can a handrail with a baluster channel be used with wall brackets?

Yes, that is a Type 1 handrail and is legal if: 1) it’s at least 1 1/4” in diameter and not more than 2”, 2) if it’s not circular, (which yours is not) it must have a perimeter of at least 4” and not more than 6 1/4” and a cross section dimension of 2 1/4”. (See ICC R311.7.7.1)

Type 2 handrails are larger (like made from 2x6 trim) but must have finger grips. (See ICC R311.7.7.3.2)

Make sure there is 1 1/2” clear between the handrail and wall.

Make sure the handrail “returns” to the wall or extends to the ground or post. That means you need to miter the handrail at a 90 degree angle so it fits tight to the wall.

Handrails are not required on stairs with 3 risers or less.

Mount the top of handrail between 34” and 38” above nosing of tread.


3 phase panel in shop showing weird voltage!

Looks like a feeder fuse(s) opened, measure a-b a-c and b-c , some of the measurements show voltages as they are feeding through other devices. If you measure low voltages at your main panel call your power company and tell them you have lost phases. This happens all the time in industrial sites where a fused feeder gets over loaded sometimes a short on 1 phase takes out a 2nd then the circuit breaker trips, you still have power on 1 leg so there is no breaker probably fuses at the pole.


Need advice on removing fireplace gas starter pipe

I had the same problem when converting mine. The pipes have been subjected to repeated extreme heat and cooling cycles and will be difficult to unthread.

Your best bet is to soak with penetrating oil (slide some cardboard under prior to spraying so you don't soak the bricks). Soak repeatedly and tap the pipes frequently to help the oil penetrate into the threads. Always use two pipe wrenches, one to "back up" the fitting to reduce stresses on the rest of the assembly. You may also find that heating the fitting with a small propane torch will expand it a bit, facilitating removal (keep a water spray bottle handy in case the residual penetrating oil flames up, and never spray oil while the lit torch is near).


Rigid foam board in walls between studs, plus fiberglass batt?

I am doing exactly this, but the reason for the rigid foam is to create an air channel along the underside of the roof to allow airflow up to the ridge vent. The layering is, from the outside inwards, roof, 1 in. airspace, rigid foam, batts, vapor barrier (plastic), drywall.

Understand that the function of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from migrating from the warm side into the total thickness of insulation towards the cold side, where at some point the temperature gradient will drop enough to cause condensation. You do NOT want this to occur inside the insulation. The fact that the rigid foam is also a vapor barrier is not a problem as long as you have a correct barrier immediately behind the drywall.

If by "adding batt inside" you meant "inside the wall - towards the roof", then I would not rely on the rigid foam acting as a sufficient vapor barrier unless you made a point of carefully sealing all the edges with Acousiseal. Preventing air migration past the insulation is critical to its effectiveness, and you must also provided for ventilation of the roof material itself.


Trying to understand clearance regulations on woodstove chimneys

It means what it says. If you go 10 feet from the chimney in any direction horizontally, you need to be at least 2 feet above the roof. Which means that your chimney is poorly located, if it's within 10 feet of a higher roof. So it needs to be 12 feet tall, if that's what it takes. Wind currents over that higher roof can cause downdrafts in the chimney - and that sort of thing is precisely what the language is there to prevent.

Depending how far along your install is, you could potentially move the chimney so it's more than 10 feet from the second story.


One of four outside light fixtures (all controlled by same switch) isn't working and it's not the (3) bulbs

Check the voltage at the fixture that isn't working, it could be a bad connection there. If there is no voltage in that box, go to the next fixture box, which is working, and test for loose connections there that would affect the feed to the fixture not working. If there is voltage there and all connections are good, look for a break in the wiring between that fixture box and the fixture box not working.


I had a similar problem once but the leak was visible and the outside of the toilet bowl was wet. Flushing from the tank produced leakage but flushing with a bucket did not.

It sounds like clean flush water is somehow escaping on its way from the flush valve to the toilet bowl. This could be from a misaligned tank fitting or a crack in the ceramic material. I assume that you have found no water running down the outside of the fixture.

Depending on the design of the toilet, the connection between the tank and bowl parts may include a metal fitting set into the bowl. This can become loose or cracked and thus leak water outside the flush pipe but still inside the toilet.

Or an imperfection or crack in the ceramic could allow clean water to escape from the rim passage or wash passage, well, whatever it's called and the design of these passages varies a lot. The point is, flush water can escape its proper path and still not get outside the toilet where you would see it.

EDIT: couple of pictures to show what I mean:

The red callouts show where an invisible leak might occur only when tank flushing and not when bucket flushing.


Kitchenette vs. kitchen electrical circuits

It called a Gfi outlet as long as the gfi is in the first outlet in the line from breaker it will trip before it gets to breaker box even if the last outlet shorts out our gets wet that is code in most states you are good and safe with that type of install


Securing wiring around the electrical panel - NEC 2017 appropriate?

Killing two birds with one stone
Dealing with attaching the green and yellow cables to the backboard is simpler than it looks, using stackable MC straps such as the Arlington NM310.  Note that the NM310 fastens using a screw instead of being driven in directly or nailed to the surface it's attached to.
And yes, you do need a staple or strap for that SE cable
You do, however, need a staple or stap for the SE Style U cable to meet NEC 230.51(A) securement requirements (aka within 12" of the box).  Problem is, generic SE Style U straps and staples are designed to secure the cable flat to a surface, and the 90° twist required to do that in your case makes securing the cable flat to the backerboard impractical without excessively twisting/straining the cable.  One could try using a SE Style R staple to attach the cable to the backerboard instead, but sizing may be an issue with that approach.


How should I insulate a room built into a metal barn?

The links in the other answers are very informative!

In answer to your question:

  So: is the fiberglass a bad idea?

The answer is yes, at least in the exterior walls.

In answer to your question:

  If so, what should I do instead?

You have a bunch of options, none as cheap as simple fiberglass batts.  My personal recommendation would be rigid foam on the exterior walls and ceiling with fiberglass batts on the newly built walls.  Pricey but effective.

Essentially, you're going to be building a little tiny insulated house inside the barn without the need to weatherproof it.  At the risk of losing a few square feet of floor space, why not just build the room free-standing in the corner, with maybe a couple of framing attachments (e.g. longer ceiling joists) to the barn walls?  That way you can do a simple wall with sheetrock both sides and fiberglass insulation in all four walls and the ceiling.


Adding a layer of concrete and tiles in the garage

I would acid etch the old cement with a strong muriatic acid solution to clean and make the surface rough. Then add a adhesive promoter like Moos milk painted on the slab that will help the cement bond and reduce cracking. I have done this on floors as thin as 3/4" and as thick as 2" with good results. With a thin slab a fine aggregate like 1/4" will also help.


Caveat: I've not done this, nor do I know NEC. I'm basing this off my experiences

I think the pendant conversion kit might suffice. Your track lighting (the second one, not the first) will be screwed into the ceiling directly. The pendant adapter uses the hot and the neutral of the light socket and then probably grounds off the fixture itself (hence the metal clip). Your track lighting would simply pigtail to the wiring adapter.

The catch here is that the cover for the power adapter is probably not large enough to cover the hole for the can light. And the track might not sit flush over the metal adapter in the picture (if it's flat it might, but if it's not flush with the ceiling, or a convex cover, it probably won't). So it might not look very neat. I'm not sure if they would make a cover large enough, but you might be able to fabricate one from a flat plate if needed (i.e. cut the plate to size, cut a hole in the middle and then screw to the fixture)


Lighting circuit trips breaker every time

I know you are to avoid making statement based on opinion, so here is my thought.

The Breaker, like me, has gone soft and infirm.

The 'thermal' part of the thermal-magnetic breaker was willing to tolerate the slow death of the burned switch, but it weakened itself in the process. So the slightest load will now trip it.


Electrical main panel flush mounted in concrete wall

Oh heck no, don't do that.

Imagine you found the perfect house.  You love it too, but your partner also made clear that you that you weren't "getting any" except in that house's bedroom.  Except, somebody concreted a 12-space FPE Stablok into reinforced concrete, conduits going through it and all.  Your insurance company is saying, "If you want insurance, that HAS to go".    What sort of choice four-letter words would you have for whoever who  thought it was bright idea to concrete that in there in 1983?

Of course there will be no choice.  You'll have to stick a new service and panel in an awkward and unsightly place, bypass that panel altogether, and rewire the entire house.  And it's made of concrete, so the only way that won't bust the budget is conspicuous Legrand Wiremold all over the walls and ceilings.  Thanks loads there, Humphrey!

If there's anything experience teaches us here, it's that changes to service panels are often necessary.  Far beyond ordinarily "adding circuits", people have serious problems that require panel replacement.

They find out they are dangerous Zinsco or FPE StabLok firestarters, that have to go.
They find themselves with a Crouse-Hinds or Pushmatic that is inherently obsolete and simply cannot meet today's standards.
It doesn't have those problems, but it's a dangerous "Split Bus/Rule of Six" panel (which, granted, can be solved by subpaneling if the service wires are in conduit).
They don't have enough spaces, because the same genius who set it in concrete also picked a 16-space panel. "But it's 32 circuits!" which buys you nothing in NEC 2020.

Of course, that's what we know today about 1980's panels.  What will we know tomorrow about today's panels?  Will we find out that Square D HOM's relatively young plug-on neutral scheme is as dangerous as FPE/Zinsco?  Will GE drop all support for older panels (again) just as JFCI breakers become mandatory?  We don't know. That's the point.


Those rocks are pretty thick so a 1" deep hole won't be a problem. If it helps you sleep at night, squirt a little epoxy or clear caulk in the hole along with the anchor to seal the mortar.


Name for Clerestory roof with windows at ridgeline?

You have it right: Clerestory roof. Here's one with a centrally-located wall. Although most definitions do include reference to windows, it's the same roof structure.


How can I remove white 'splatter' which has partially seeped into a wooden panel?

Looks like wall paint marks from a roller getting too close as the wall was painted, but there's no easy way to know if it is oil based on latex based paint. Either way now that it is dry and old, it's going to take some sort of solvent to remove it and that will also remove whatever finish is there as well.

You really don't have any options that I am aware of to avoid having to refinish it, I would just plan on doing that.

One possible option is to try using some nail polish remover, because it is decidedly mild since it is intended to make contact with skin. That might soften it up enough to make it come off without doing too much damage to the original finish. Try applying it very sparingly with cotton swabs.


What is the best material for an indoor wood heater

Cast Iron is cheap to make in a mold, often bolted together if made in sections and if so, may leak air at the seams, has reasonable fire resistance, can eventually crack from thermal cycling. Often made to look "retro".

Steel is easy to make air-tight, requires metal brakes to fold the steel plate into shape, and the seams need to be welded. The firebox will be lined with firebrick to protect the steel from overheating and serves as thermal mass and also increases the firebox temperatures which if combined with secondary air-intake, will help completely burn all combustibles.

Ceramic/Soap Stone stoves essentially dispense with the steel shell, have thick walls for thermal mass and fire resistance.

The major difference in the way steel and ceramic stoves work is the thermal mass that a ceramic stove can have. Steel stoves are efficient at getting the heat out fairly immediately and drive you out of the room in doing so. There is temperature variation.

Ceramic stoves take a lot longer time to warm up, but once heated, serve as a thermal reservoir that absorbs and releases heat over time, leading to more even temperatures. If you let the fire go out, it will take longer to start delivering heat than either Cast Iron or Steel stoves.

Pay attention to the instruction manuals as there are differences in firing methods and also pay attention to not over-firing any of them.

So, it boils down to "Do you want quicker heating or are patient to have more even temperature delivered over time?"


Voltage based switch. Ceiling fan on dimmable lights

How dimmers work

It sounds like you have some very common misconceptions of how dimmers work.  The usual assumption is they reduce the voltage; however that would require either a) a Variac (about a 30 pound transformer bigger than a soda can), or b) a large power resistor about the size of a shoe box, that makes lots and lots of heat.

That's not how it works at all.  Actually, the dimmer supplies full voltage, but only part of the time.   It waits until a certain point in the AC cycle, then turns the power on full.  As the AC voltage follows the sinewave to zero, the switch shuts off automatically.  Then, the dimmer waits a period and turns it on again.  So the light only sees part of the sinewave.    This scheme is done to keep the dimmer lightweight, small and cheap, so it's built around a 30 cent triac instead of a $40 transformer.

Motor speed control is a different kettle of fish

You can see where that would make a motor very, very angry.   Further, many motors are designed to go one speed: the speed of the AC frequency, and to regulate their speed you need a Variable Frequency Drive, a sophisticated piece of electronics. So trimming voltage but keeping frequency just imbalances the motor and makes it hot and inefficient.

There are other schemes to control other types of motors, but none of them are anything like dimming.

So yes. Dimmers are for lights; motor speed controllers are for motors. Hence the names of the devices.

You can use any UL-listed control scheme that works

You are perfectly welcome to have two switches side by side; one being a dimmer and the other being a fan speed controller, each feeding its respective devices.  That would, obviously, require a 2-gang box and some more cabling fished in the walls, but it's straightforward work for any competent electrician of the "specialize in fishing cables through walls" variety. That electrician could also make sure to install a fan-rated junction box which is capable of bearing the extreme vibration loads that will pull the nails out of a normal box, or metal-fatigue it.

Another option, these days, is to hardwire hot to the ceiling, and use "smart" fan and light controllers to respond to a smart switch.  However, this setup must retain what every room in America has: a light switch in the usual location that a complete novice can turn on.  That is to benefit guests, particularly EMTs, cops and firemen who need lights turned on fast to intubate you, clear the room, etc.  It can be a smart switch; it just has to work.


How is my ceiling rose/light switch functioning?? UK

That rose looks correctly wired for and end-of-line situation. The usual 3 wires in a rose are loop in, loop out, and switch. loop out is optional as it is used to supply power to the next fitting. If all your light fittings are like this, then  either each light has it's own cable runnign back to the fuse box, or (more likely) the loop is connected in juction boxes above the ceiling. This could be because the current roses replaced fittings which did not have the necessary number of terminals for a switch connection.


Removing flush mounted ceiling fixture that has springs atached to it

Trim rings for can fixtures (which are recessed, but look "flush" from below) are often spring-mounted. The ones I've met either have a pair of "long-legged" springs that go into a slot where they will release if you squeeze the legs together (the trim pulls down from the ceiling several inches and stops on bent-out ends of the springs) or two or three coil springs, where you usually have to unhook one end of the coil spring to release the trim (which is more of a pain.)

Either one can be awkward, so start by being on a secure, comfortable work platform, not precariously balanced on whatever is handy.


What are the joists made out of? How far apart are they?

"Looks really solid" isn't a very scientific assessment.  ;-)

If the joists are wood, what kind are they? Are they suitable for wet outdoor conditions? Or is the deck going to be sealed so that the joists never get wet?

You want to start by determining what kind of wood the joists are made out of to determine if they're even suitable for the deck you have in mind.

Then you should look at some span tables to see if they're going to be strong enough to support the load you want to put on the deck.

Here are a couple of examples.

http://www.southernpine.com/span-tables/joists-rafters/

http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp?species=Alaska+Cedar&size=2x6&grade=Select+Structural&member=Floor+Joists&deflectionlimit=L%2F360&spacing=16&wet=No&incised=No&liveload=40&snowload=-1&deadload=10&submit=Calculate+Maximum+Horizontal+Span#answer

EDIT after a few comments: I'd probably still talk to an engineer, just to be on the safe side both with the 15 foot (?) span and the 28" centers (was that centers? Or distance between the beams?), and to make sure the 4x4 columns are adequate. Let's say 15 people weigh 3,000 pounds, plus whatever furniture you put on the deck, plus the weight of whatever additional treatment you use to create the floor of the deck.

You're more or less talking about parking a car on top of that thing.

What are those slats that make up the flat roof? I think for the 2 foot span between those beams, 2x4's (on edge, not flat) would be the minimum size if you were using joists (on 16" centers). Since those existing slats are continuous rather than joists, that might make a difference. But I'd get a little local advice.

Playing around with the calculator here, for Douglas Fir, it seems like the minimum beams for the main span might need to be doubled 2x10's. You're pretty close to that, but I do not think it's overbuilt for what you want to do.

Are the 4x4 columns pressure-treated? If not, they're subject to rot especially at the base and your deck could collapse, which could be catastrophic if people are on it or under it.

EDIT 2: As @fungku mentioned in his answer, it's super important to confirm that you have a solid ledger connection to the house. I've seen decks where the ledger was just nailed to the house (presumable some of the nails hit studs) where the deck was literally pulling away and falling off the house. This really requires lag screws at the very least, preferably lag bolts running clear through with washers and nuts on the back side, and/or joist hangers designed for decks (lateral load hangers).


Identifying the hot and neutral wires of an antique lamp

I assume the lamp has a screw socket for the bulb. In this case, the hot wire connects to the contact at the bottom of the socket and the neutral connects to the screw shell.
You may be able to examine the socket to see which connects where. Otherwise, you’ll need a way to determine electrical continuity (ohm meter, continuity tester, battery and flashlight bulb, etc.) to determine which wire connects to the bottom and is therefore hot.


I would use a simple intermatic timer being powered by another source then use the contact set in the timer to break the power to the heater. This would be a code compliant way to control the heat cycle. I do not know of any timer that could work as you describe but they may be out there. As far as intermatic they make clockwork style that you put lugs on a dial up to fancy digital units that you program. There are other brands I use intermatic because they last at least the clockwork ones almost never fail.


What is this grill-like thing on my chain link fence?

Shelf for trays with feed and water for birds?
EDIT
Shelf for potted plants? (Dog has been savaging potted plants.)


You are correct

The brown wire from the transformer to the relays in your unit is indeed the C wire you're looking for -- you can cut it and splice it with a bog-standard wirenut, or use a piggyback tab terminal crimped on the end of what you're using for a C wire to make the connection at a device.  There may even be a spare terminal connected to it but nothing else -- the wiring diagram on your unit has provisions for a C wire from the unit to an external compressor contactor.


Sprinkler: Water leaking from the black box with the screws

That appears to be the backflow preventer and you may be able to find replacement parts for that specific make/model at a local irrigation supply house.
Otherwise, you'll need to replace it.


Remove wallpaper that has been textured over

Removing wall paper   can be a major pain in the posterior  at best. With plaster on top it may be a nightmare, if doable. You could try it in a small test area.
It may be? easier and or less time consuming to skim coat a new layer of mud and sand smooth, but that requires skill that a DIY'er may not have (but with practice could do).
Maybe remove the dry wall and install new drywall, Again mudding and taping is an acquired skill, especially when you want a smooth non textured wall, it take a lot of prep to get smooth.


Can I use mylar sheets to keep my roof cool?

would this even work?

It would be moderately effective at reflecting sunlight but would not be durable.

Thin sheets are likely to get torn in high winds, if the wind gets under the sheets, your bricks are likely to be moved around. Worst case strips of mylar sheeting get blown across the neighbourhood and in really high winds an occasional brick gets thrown off the roof. If there's an unexpected storm at 4 a.m just before the normal onset of winter do you want to be climbing the roof in darkness to put away your mylar sheeting?

  is this better or would white paint be the better option

White paint would probably require less maintenance.


Sounds like you might be out of luck, unless there happens to be a neutral in the box.  When it comes to 3-way circuits, a white wire is likely not a neutral (and in your case I can say pretty certainly that it is not).

A 3-way switch has four terminals, none of which is neutral (unless it's a "smart" switch).
Common
This terminal is either connected to the line (power feeding in), or the load (feeding power to the device).
Traveller
There are two traveller terminals, which the switch selects between depending on the position.  If power is fed to the common terminal, power will be directed to one of the travellers depending on the switch position.
Ground
This terminal provides a connection to the grounding conductor.


Why aren’t there water shutoff valves for each room?

This is a result of building as efficiently (cheaply) as possible, and there is almost no need for room valves.

First, efficiency:

Valves are more expensive than pipe. Extra valves means more labor cost.
If the valves are to be centrally located, then more pipe is required because each "zone" will have to be home-run instead of branching off a shared pipe. Extra pipe means more labor cost.
If the valves are not centrally located, then they need to be located somewhere accessible to be utilized. That means either designing a space for them, or locating them somewhere not in the way. Extra design work and extra pipe means more labor cost.

Second, there is little need to install valves in advance:

In an emergency, shutting off the water to the house for a couple of hours (or a day) while waiting for a plumber (or a run to the hardware store) is an inconvenience that most people can manage.
The most common leaks are at fixtures, not in pipes. Each fixture usually has its own shutoff.
If you need a valve to facilitate a renovation while the house is occupied, it's easy to plan to shut off the water to the house briefly to install a local valve.

In summary, the expense of the extra valves, pipe and labor are not worth it, especially from the perspective of a builder, where a small reduction in cost per home built results in a large savings overall.


How can I wire an array of ceiling lights for easy reconfigurability?

While you are talking about switches, I would suggest using dimmers, if your light source allows you.  Incandescent, low voltage, LED and some screw in CFLS can be dimmed and that would really change the look of your room.  Straight plug in PL's like 4 pin compact fluorescents in most cases wont be dimmable.  Also, watch your wattage, but from the sounds of what you want to do, it probably wont be a problem.  You can get dimmers from probably $5.00 to $50.00, depending on the quality and the light source.  Lutron is my favorite dimmer, but there are other brands that are well made.
Here's another way that won't be cheap, but it's probably the cheapest in 'home automation'.  There are many systems out there, most are easily customized for zones or scenes.  They come in switches and dimmers, even some can be set up as a switch and dimmer.  All of these wire up like a switch of dimmer would, and are easily expandable. It just depends on what is in your wallet, the rest is up to your imagination. Here is the Insteon brand;

Here are some of the brands that I can think of, Leviton Viziz RF, Cooper Wiring Device Aspire RF or as shown in the pictures, Insteon.
All are good but Insteon is backwards compatible with X10 and has more security, garage door monitoring, remote monitoring and as with all above, you can easily access your system from your browser, anywhere in the world.


One light switch powers two separate light switches

Go for the Pro model

I spoke with Lutron's tech support online via livechat and the Lutron Pico remotes do support being paired with more than one Maestro or Caseta dimmer.  With the correct parts, you also can leave the mechanical switch in place upstairs to allow a houseguest or first responder quick control of the lights.

You'll need a black pigtail (match the existing wire gauge) and a few more wirenuts for this, as well as two Lutron PD-10NXD (this is the pro model, which adds the hardwired switch support) dimmers and a Pico remote with a wall mounting kit.

Turn off power at the breaker (if it isn't already off that is)

In the upstairs box:

Remove the two black wires from the old switch and nut them together with the black pigtail.
Attach the other end of the black pigtail to the black screw on the upstairs switch. (This effectively uses the 3-way switch as a single pole switch.)

In the downstairs box:

Remove the top (in your photo) black wire from the left 3-way switch.  Nut it to the red wire on the dimmer that's going in the left side.
Remove the top (in your photo) black wire from the right 3-way switch.  Nut it to the red wire on the dimmer that's going in the right side.
Pull out the neutral bundle from the bottom box. Connect the white wires from both dimmers to it.  (This will yield improved dimming performance and avoid flickering or other misbehavior if CFLs or LEDs are installed.)
Remove the bottom (in your photo) black wire from the right 3-way switch. Nut it to the black wires from both dimmers.
Remove the red wire from the right 3-way switch.  Nut it to the blue wires from both dimmers.
Pull out the ground bundle (if present) and nut the green wires from both dimmers to it.  If no grounding means is present in the box, nut the green wires to each other but do not connect them to any other wires in the box.

Back at the upstairs box:

Install the Pico remote and wall mounting means adjacent to the upstairs switch box.
Button both boxes up.
Turn the power back on at the breaker.
Pair the Pico remote with both Caseta dimmers as per the supplied instructions.


How to remove a tub drain with no spokes?

You could try putting an expanding plug into the drain which should give you something to grab hold of with a pair of vice grips. I would replace the wing nut with a regular nut so that you have better access to the stud.

Expanding plugs from McMaster-Carr


How to remove a stuck Sharkbite connector from a PEX tube?

Try pushing the pipe in a bit, before pulling it out.  Sometimes the barbs dig into the pipe, so the release ring can't disengage them. Pushing the pipe in, may allow the release to completely disengage the barbs.

Use the tool to compress the release ring.
Push the tubing deeper into the fitting, while keeping pressure on the release tool.
Pull the tubing out of the fitting.

During step 2, you might feel the release ring move slightly closer to the fitting. This is a good sign that the barbs are fully retracted, and the pipe is ready for retraction. If you don't feel the release move, don't worry, it might just be too slight for your sore fingers to feel.

Alternatively, try reversing steps 1 and 2. Push the tube deeper into the fitting, then use the release tool to operate the release mechanism.


Does tung oil odor last as long as linseed oil odor?

Tung oil also leaves a lingering smell, quoting:

  Tung oil produces a mildly disagreeable odor for a few days after it
  is applied. This odor lessens with time, however some find that it
  continues for quite some time afterwards. If the tung oil is to be
  coated with some other finish such as wax, shellac, lacquer or
  polyurethane, this smell is no longer noticeable.


How do I wire a light controlled by two switches?

You need to connect the switched live to the brown wire in the new fitting and the neutral to the blue wire. The neutral will be one of the black wires. The switched live may be red, or it might be a black wire in one for the T&E cables (though it should have red tape or sleeving on it if it is...).

You might need look at the switches to try and figure out which cable is which. A typical arrangement for two-way switching is shown here (I've linked rather than inline-display the image for copyright reasons).

I'd hazard a guess that the two cables with the red and black joined are the feed coming in and going out to the next fitting on the circuit - but don't take my word for that, please check that for yourself.


Choosing a feeder cable from solar shed to off-grid cabin

Wire it up for 120/240, no difference in wiring: #10 AWG THHW and a double pole 30 Amp breaker in the main panel. Manual calls for copper wire only.


Fiberglass or reflective roll insulation for duct work?

I prefer bubble wrap as it generally looks nicer and is easier to clean if looks are important. However the R value for single ply with no air gap is generally about R-4. To achieve R-6 you would need to provide an air gap by first cutting strips and then go over the strips with the bubble wrap. R-6 is generally considered the minimum. 2” faced fiberglass is generally R-6 as well.


What is the purpose of floor concrete in this upstairs wooden condo?

That type of subflooring, often built with "gyp-crete", a self-leveling gypsum slurry that's poured into place, is used as a sound-deadening measure. Its primary function is to dampen foot traffic and other sounds of living for the benefit of residents below. It's a common practice in budget-built hotels, apartments, etc. where pre-cast or other concrete floors aren't used.


Power equals amps times volts, and for all practical purposes is exactly the same, other than measurement error.
Twice the volts, half the amps, same power.
That's a very power hungry computer by modern standards - there, there's real room for potential savings by using a more power efficient computer.


Sharing a Ground Conductor Between Multiple Circuits

So you're paralleling two separate runs - a 12/2/2 and a 14/2 - from the panel, to a J-box. Beyond that they run as THHN wires in conduit.
You're concerned because you've been well-trained that cables and conduits should be tree topology not loops or bubbles - and there's a bubble between the 12/2/2 and the 14/2.   Good sense.
And that sense is particularly astute when it comes to neutrals.  You must be very careful to keep neutrals identified and segregated so each neutral is identified with its partner hot.
Remember that in individual wires (e.g. in conduit), no remarking is allowed for function: you can't re-mark white wires to be hot.  Which means... blue tape on a white wire does NOT make it hot; it only makes it "the neutral for the blue circuit".
However, with grounds, the more the merrier.  Keep in mind ordinary service current travels on neutral.  Safety ground is for nothing but ground fault current, which is expected to be abnormal and transient.
"Ground loop" is a term-of-art relating to audio engineering, and the impacts of having audio equipment powered by an AC source in the audible range.   It's also used by airplane pilots to describe the airplane doing an accidental "donut" because they forgot crosswinds can affect the airplane even when rolling on the ground.


The library ladder kits I have assembled have been cut from 1X4 white oak for all parts, although other species of wood are fine too. The treads were strengthened by a piece of all thread stretched taught with a block to provide center support between the tread and all thread. This also holds it all together.

All the weight is transferred to the floor through the legs, the hooks at the top are for keeping the ladder to the wall, not for support.


Duct tape and painter's tape to cover baseboard heater

In theory, any tape that is truly designed for HVAC use should be OK. That would not include painters tape, and very likely not include ordinary duct tape (despite the name "duct", it is not necessarily rated for heating duct temperatures).

But for installation right next to an actual heater, I would recommend metal tape designed for high temperatures. Something like 3M High Temperature Flue Tape. I have not used this particular tape, but I have used similar tapes. Check the temperature rating - this one is rated for up 600 degrees Fahrenheit - and if your baseboard heater gets hotter than 600 degrees then you have bigger problems than a few bugs (a few well-roasted bugs).

Now that I see (thank you @bib) that you are talking about taping over vents, that gets a bit trickier. I thought it was just holes NEAR the heater - in which case high-temperature tape would certainly be fine. Blocking actual vents in the heater is potentially more of a problem because heat could build up inside the heater beyond the design limits - i.e., once the heater turns on it wouldn't turn off (unless the room warms up for other reasons) because the tape would trap most of the heat inside the heater.


Why would my shower only have hot water?

According to your picture that valve looks like it has flow controls on each line cold and hot - turn the screw on the cold line - CCW a little bit and see if you now have cold water (be careful as the screw could come all the way out and you will have full on water ).

It could also be that when the shower lines were installed that the installer sweated the copper joints and it got clogged with some debris (not unusual). You would need to do two things here :

1: Remove your flow control on the cold water line - that screw and nut assembly next to the cartridge (with the main water valve turned off of course).
Verify you have water there and check for debris which could easily come from someones copper pipe solder sweating job.

Have someone turn the main on ever so slightly - verify you have cold running water coming through to the shower valve.. it might also force out some debris.

If you have Water flowing - re-install the flow control valve - see if you have cold water from the shower valve ..

2: If no cold water is coming out of the shower at this point and you have cold water at the flow control - you will need to remove the cartridge and check for debris there and also that the cartridge is properly installed.

Just one other comment here - the pipe fitting for the shower cartridge is designed to be screwed into a supporting board - I would try to install a 1 by 3 or 1 by 4 in the back of that flange between it and the drywall and lengthwise between the studs - so my pipe would be supported and locked down - no movement and flexing..


I would avoid adding soil next to the foundation and instead focus on removing soil to make a swale 4 ft or so away from the foundation. For termite resistance it is best to keep the soil level at least 6 inches below the sill plate, and more is better.

I think a swale and dry creek bed are excellent solutions. If the topology allows it, they are preferred over underground drains.

Swales are much more in the province of a DIYer than are underground drains. I solved a neighbor's serious drainage problem with 8 hrs of work on my part using a mattock, shovel and wheelbarrow.

EDIT It could be that after a rain the water table around this house rises to ground level or above.  If this is the case, then true French drains would be necessary to drain the soil.


Mounting the cabinets in this situation may well be a non-trivial construction project due to the lack of studs and the wall serving as fire separation between dwellings under the control of different occupants.

There are two ways to determine the construction in this case.

Locate accurate architectural plans depicting the original construction. Such plans may not be readily available.
Destructive investigation entailing opening the wall up and looking to see how it is built.

Irrespective of the method used to determine construction, the mounting of cabinets in the absence of studs requires an appropriate plan suitable for the actual construction. Whether such a plan will require a detailed design so that the cabinets are self supporting depends, of course, on the nature of the existing construction.

Alternatively to cabinets, furniture might by used to meet the functional requirements of the larger project.


My 240 volt outlet seems to be delivering 219 volts

240V is a nominal value. Depending on how far away you are from the power station or other factors, it could be higher or lower, 219V is a perfectly reasonable value. It is also unrelated to the problems you're having with your oven. Most ovens have an internal thermostat that controls whether or not the heater operates. When you don't get enough voltage, your oven will still heat up to the given temperature, it would just take longer. (Unless the voltage is so low that it's not able to hold heat, but 219V is perfectly fine.) Also, I'll note that most oven thermostats aren't that precise; it can pay to have an oven thermometer around if you need precision.

At this point, the electrical system appears fine up to the point where it hits the oven. If both the stove and oven are the same appliance, I'd consider the possibility that something's off inside them. For example, if the plug isn't connected properly to the actual oven, and the oven only has one 120V rail, you could indeed run into problems.


Is the wooden-stud basement wall that runs next to & parallel to the shared concrete wall separating two townhouses load-bearing?

Seldom do we get this amount of information regarding construction issues. However, I still need some info. I’ll make some assumptions and you tell me where I’m wrong.
First, concrete party walls are used for 1) Fire Walls, 2) Sound Control, and 3) Structural.
If the walls are built as you have drawn them, (uniform width the full length of the building with wood framing added to interior) I’d assume the floor above is concrete not wood framing, because the supporting beams are steel not wood. If it is, then the walls are structural and they cannot be supported by wood (your 2 studs you want to remove).
To verify the party wall is concrete, I’d look in your wife’s DMZ area and see if the plumbing is exposed. If so, then it’s concrete. If not, more exploratory surgery may be required.
To answer your questions:

No, I doubt if the floor is supported by a few wood studs in one room. (I’d verify that the other rooms do not have studs.)

I doubt the floor is wood frame, as noted above.

The studs are not load bearing and therefore they can be removed (modified) and no screw jack is required.

Summary:
Please verify my assumptions before you remove the studs. If things are different, please notify.


Can I use a Honeywell thermocouple in a State water heater?

First, I agree with the above comments:  I use a 400 fine-grit sandpaper to clean off the existing thermocouple tip and I clean off the pilot tip as well.

As a separate precaution, I would check the spark on the igniter assembly by disconnecting it then watching for the small blue spark at the hand-button (DUH, only after turning off the gas!)

Yes, you can use the Honeywell 30mV t-couple with the State if/when the threads in the gas control valve seat fit.

Lastly, note that some State water heaters have a high-temperature shunt soldered in-line with the thermocouple. These are a retrofit part to repair problems in hot-weather climates (like Arizona and Southern Nevada.)  In that case, the thermocouple with the shunt 'ignores' high ambient temperatures in garages, etc. I have had to replace my State water-heater thermocouple a few  times because the shunt resistor cracks. Of course the cracking problem only occurs in cold, winter temperatures.

The parts list for your heater is found here; and it looks like yours (at least originally) did not have the high-temp shunt resistor version of the thermocouple.  Your thermocouple #9000056015 is manufactured by AO Smith and (for example) could be purchased here or elsewhere.

Bottom line:  go get the Honeywell and a 2nd push-button igniter; order a 2nd AO Smith thermocouple online; clean and test your existing ones if you are up for it....please post back your progress.


Replacing 2 split receptacles with 2 GFCIs

Split receptacles are no safer it allows 2 separate circuits on 1 outlet. I have found a double pole GFCI to feed a multi wire branch circuit is more stable than trying to use GFCI outlets. If using GFCI outlets to prevent nuncance tripping each outlet would need to be GFCI using only the line or there may be issues if the load is used I have found a double pole GFCI circuit breaker is cheaper than a bunch of GFCI outlets. You would still have a separate 20 amps on each outlet but if any of the outlets sees a ground fault they all go dead, this would be the reason for individual GFCI outlets using only the line side and may be a good idea if your breaker panel is remote or if your fridge is on this circuit but it cost more. But no new wiring is needed with a double pole or individual GFCI outlets using the line only (feeding 1 hot wire through to the next outlet and alternate the hot to the outlet provides 2 circuits if you go this route)


One thing I've been surprised at doing my house is that getting a plasterer is easier and cheaper than you might have thought. So, be brave.

Take down the bits of ceiling and wall that are in the way, drill proper holes in the joists and noggins for the cable runs and lay the cable in. Wire up the other end of the cable, then tape over the ends of the cable where the wall lights will go.

Next get some plasterboard -- B+Q usefully sell it in half-size sheets that fit in a car -- cut to the size of your holes (with little holes for your cables), and nail to the joists in the ceiling and the noggins in the wall. Don't worry too much if there's a few mm around the gap, it doesn't need to to be too precise.

Then have a plasterer put a "skim coat" over the top of the lot. He or she may even say it's cheaper and easier for them to do the whole ceiling or the whole wall. Stand back open-mouthed while they do the lot in a few minutes!

Oh, and I'd take @Tim Baker's suggestion of picking up the power from the switch. Given that you're in the UK, if the wiring was done in the last forty years this is going to be a pull switch on the ceiling, no?

(Usual disclaimers apply: be careful mucking about with power in the bathroom, it makes sense [and is required by the Building Regs] for a circuit that's going to a wet area to be protected by an RCD.)


Staber advertises that you can do the repairs yourself, and they will sell you parts and give free phone support.

Some people love them (low water, low power, low soap, gentle on clothes, spins out more water, built in USA, great customer service)

Other people hate them (expensive, loud, bad customer service).

Search the web and read both the rants and raves.


How to connect a "safety overflow switch" to "turn off a wall outlet"?

You just need a relay that includes an integral 24V transformer.  There are several of those on the market.  By "market" I mean the market of products intended and listed for use in mains electrical; the ones I'm thinking of mount in a 1/2" knockout in a junction box.

You would probably want to move the safety switch wire to the NC position so that it contacts until an overflow.  That way if it becomes disconnected it will fail safe.


Can't get whole-house water filter housing loose

Those little red buttons quit functioning with age, and crappy water. Open a faucet, and turn supply off.
A slight coating of petrolium jelly on the o ring works wonders as well. Use very little, just to the point of adding a sheen to the rubber.


Framing Advice - Removing Shower Opening

With your joist direction following the same without support it is probably built for a door. With a door and no header the wall may wobble a bit as many shower doors are glass and heavy. I was taught to always put a header in for a door for that reason. If you are not going to have a door and want it open to the ceiling I would do it. Depending on the depth and spray a shower curtain can span the opening with an expanding rod if needed. Opening up the area (this also held ventilation and may reduce mold growth as your extractor fan can pull the steam out.


Is the maximum load of my circuit panel split evenly between the two legs?

What you have is 240V @ 200A, with a center tap neutral giving you a neutral/center return.

This is single phase with a center tap, it is not conventionally called "two phases" but rather "two poles", L1 and L2.

If you fully load it, you will pull 200A down the L1 pole and necessarily by the nature of current flowing in loops, 200A down the L2 pole.

You can pull any amount of current you please down the neutral. Since the neutral essentially breaks the big loop into two little loops, neutral only pulls differential current: if you pull 40A across L1-neutral, and 30A across L2-neutral, then neutral flows 10A.   If you draw 200A down L1 and 0A down L2, neutral carries 200A.  There is no combination of draws that can make neutral draw more than the largest pole.

If you're now thinking "I can power two 120V circuits with a common neutral", you are correct and that is called a multi-wire branch circuit.  It's fallen out of style in the age of GFCIs, because it requires GFCIs which are special.   The three conductors in a GFCI only carry two wires' worth of current, so only count as 2 wires for thermal calculations.


What size wire do I need? 225' run/100 amp subpanel

Yikes.  All your load is 120V.
The 30A RV is almost certainly a "TT30" which is 120V/30A.
Receps are all 120V obviously.  The good news is, receps are 0 amps.  The bad news is, things which plug into receps are various amps, and since you haven't discussed what those will be, we have to punt over to the usual assumption of  180 VA per recep, or 1800 VA the bunch, or 15A.
120V electric wall heater will be 12 amps typically.  However presumably you will not be running it at the same time you are maxing out the RV.  You won't be running the A/C at the same time as the heater, and it's less than 12A, so we'll count it as part of the heater's allocation.
There are too few simultaneous loads here to be able to effectively balance them on the two 120V phases included as part of 240V.  Therefore while we can try to balance them on the 240V, we can't count on that balance existing. Therefore we must think about voltage drop for a single load.  The worst case (for balancing and voltage drop) is the RV is maxed out @ 30A and nothing else is on.  That must be the basis of our voltage drop calcs.
(so for folks who do voltage drop calcs... just plugging 240V and breaker trip into your friendly neighborhood voltage-drop calc won't tell the whole story.  Loads this lopsided require thinking about drop in instances of pure 120V load.)
It's a pity; if only we had a way to guarantee balancing of the 120V loads, we could do our calcs based on your 240V draw, and the wires would be a lot thinner.  A 10 KVA or even 5 KVA transformer could do that... but realistically, unless you get lucky on Craigslist (and know exactly what you are buying), the transformer would be more expensive than fatter wire.
Failing to run this 240V would be nuts
So you might think "Why not run it as 120V-only?"  Because your future mini-split won't like that.  And you may get a bigger RV someday.
I think we need to plan for 40A @ 240V of service... but also watch our voltage drop at 30A @ 120V.  (24A [80%] for the RV and 6A for other misc loads.)   3% is a wire salesman's ideal but try earnestly to keep it under 5%.
So this looks like #2 aluminum.
#3 aluminum would work, but it's generally a unicorn.
And the limiting factor is the ability to support a lopsided 120V load based on the RV being most of it.
On the upside, since you're not in Canada, you could breaker the #2 aluminum at 90A. That means it will be totally ready for that mini-split and larger 240V/50A RV should you ever get one -- at 60A actual, voltage drop @ 240V will only be 3.3%.
If you wanted to super-chintz this thing, you might be able to swing #4 aluminum, but under certain conditions voltage drop would be noticeable. The cost differential #2 vs #4 will be tiny compared to total project cost.
Also, get a BIG panel
This wire can be breakered at 90A, which is enough to run a pretty big house.  Given how ridiculously cheap breaker spaces are, and how expensive and project-blocking running out of spaces is, a 30-space panel is not excessive.  Disregard number of "circuits" in a panel spec; that number is useless. So a 16 space/32 circuit panel is only a 16.


How can I discourage mud dauber from nesting at my entrance?

They build their nests in the late-summer to fall and I've found the best approach is to remove the nests as they build them.  You'll hear the characteristic high-pitched buzzing as they deposit the mud.  Scrape the nest off the wall or spray it off with your hose.

Mud daubers are not very aggressive, they can sting but usually don't and they don't swarm like hornets do.  Their nests make a real mess, however.  I have never noticed them reusing the same nest although they may build more mud tubes adjacent to old ones.

They tend to like shady spots like you have there on your porch.  The nest is filled with spiders that are paralyzed by the venom and are used to feed the youngsters when they hatch.


How to avoid orange buildup on shower tile grout?

Orange?
Filter out the iron in your water supply.


Can I connect the grounding conductor to the neutral when installing a remote for a ceiling fan in an ungrounded box?

NO!
You cannot, for any reason, connect a grounding conductor to a neutral (grounded) conductor anywhere other than in the service equipment.
If you do so, the metal box and any metal connected to the box (including the fan housing) will become a current carrying conductor. This is very bad, and can result in personal injury and/or death.
I doubt the remote requires the grounding conductor to be connected in order to function.
The device's grounding conductor is a safety feature, and should be left unconnected when installing the device in an ungrounded box where there is no separate grounding wire in the feed cable.  However, you'll want to be sure the box is not grounded. Just because there's not a grounding wire in the box, does not mean the box is not grounded. The box could be grounded via conduit, the outer sheath of the cable feeding the box, or some other method.


4x100 meter base to 2x200 without changing meter base?

If each apartment can make it on 125A, I would leave it be.  You need a third service anyway for commons space loads, unless there are none or very few and you are doing something clever like installing a solar/battery system for those.

Otherwise yes, you will need to replace with a 3-unit 200A meter; two for the apartments and one for the commons loads.

Commons loads must now be on a separate meter, per many states and municipalities, and of late, NEC as well.

Even if you can weasel out of having a commons meter, I would still get a spare meter base for one.  The reason is rooftop/carport/onsite solar, whose economics just keep getting better and better.  Once solar shingles reach net parity with regular shingles, nobody will install anything else.

Note that with this conversion, the former main panels will now be subpanels. Any 3-wire service lines must have ground wires retrofitted.  You must obtain separate ground bars for those panels, and move all ground wires to them and pull the N-G bonds.  Feel free to have 2+ ground bars, they are cheap.

Honestly, my goal would be to change little more than drywll, and retain my ability to convert the unit back to 4 apartments in the future for when the market changes.  I for one am stunned that you can get more than twice as much for a doubled unit as a single, but that's not your question.

To mimimize disruption, I would advice having a setup that allows each service to have

a 200A main breaker
at least six breaker spaces

four for two 100A breakers to each panel (so you don't have to replace feeder), and
two or more for things like EVSE.


If no water line is connected then it will not make ice. The making of ice is the sounds your wife heard, so that's why she no longer hears anything. It does no harm to have it disconnected and once you reconnect it, it should begin producing ice again.


Safer Diatomaceous Earth, safe to sleep in home with it?

The danger when handling diatomaceous earth is the dust you don't want to breathe it once it is deposited it settles and there is no more risk until time to vacuum it up. Some swimming pool filters use diatomaceous earth to improve the filter efficiency when pouring it it is best to use a dust mask, I have used it weekly for many years. You don't need the food grade / more expensive type and you can sleep well knowing this is much safer than pesticides in your home, it helps get rid of all kinds of creepy crawlys and can be left indefinatly without negative health risks.


Any ideas for how to use solar to offset electricity in an apartment?

You could add a regulator (appx $88 at a local supplier) and storage battery(ies) ($77 for a 35AH, same supplier), to feed low voltage lighting ($11 per 750 mah array) at night. However, since you are paying around $0.11/KWH at the wall, it will take a long time to break even on the expense of a) battery b) regulator, c) wiring, and d) low voltage lighting. The same money spent on increased insulation would likely provide a much quicker return on your investment.


central A/C Turns back on 30 seconds after shutting off

Interpretation:

Ok so, the air handler inside cuts out when it should be running. These symptoms became apparent once the house was basically air-sealed with insulation. And the unit is old.

Conjecture:

Insulation is the straw that broke the camel's back (it caused the fan to have to work harder to push the air). The blower motor is tripping-out on thermal overload because it's mostly burnt out; either the windings or the bearings (or both, now) are shot.

Solution:

Replacing the blower would probably get it up and running, but do you really want to drop ~$300 + labor to find out, on a 30yo unit? (Decide soon ...winter is coming.)

Confirmation:

Turn the AC off and set the fan to 'on'. If it kicks out every half hour: there's your problem right there (provided, it's not a lose wire somewhere, but if you can set your watch to it, I'd be leaning towards an over-heat).


Connecting neutrals in disconnect switch

For the 240V single-phase 60A circuit to my shop I used a 3-phase disconnect. It had 3 switched terminals, and also a ground lug bonded to the case itself. The inspector was fine with this approach.

Elsewhere for another project I used Polaris lugs which I got off eBay for a reasonable price, and were very easy to work with. Far simpler than using a split bolt and gobs of electrical tape and other supplies. But that said, a split bolt would work perfectly well if installed correctly.


Furnace Displays Heat Pump mode when AC is running

The outside unit is a compressor , the difference between a heat pump in heating and cooling is the Direction of the refrigerant flow. So for a single fuel heat pump to cool it may well be running in stage 1 but a reversing valve has altered the flow. If you have a dual fuel system then in heating a choice is made based on the temp which one to run. Your thermostat probably doesn’t have all the functionality or was not fully programmed but to get cooling the outside unit needs to run and the reversing valves are set to cool.
If it’s cooling everything is fine the thermostat is commanding the compressor on and it has the reversing valve in the correct position.


Our tiler put Grout Boost on after laying grout, thinking it was grout sealer. What should we do?

Grout Boost is meant to be mixed with the grout before installation.  If you can clean it off and the grout looks ok afterwards, I imagine you could use regular grout sealer.

Personally, if you are paying them to do the job, I'd want them to dig out the existing grout and re-grout it.  There is no need to tear up all the tiles, just the grout.

You might try emailing the folks at groutboost.com and see what they recommend specifically.


Should I use Pressure Treated Wood in a basement?

Most building codes require PT wood that will be in contact with basement concrete floors. So the bottom plate of a 2x4 wall and code requires the use of fasteners (galvanized) approved for use with PT wood.


Ordering parts for fridge is there difference between 1 or 1A or 1B

Looks like the number (1 or 2) is your standard white gasket, while 1B/2B refers to the black version, and 1A/2A appears to refer to a grey version.  The black and grey likely go with the stainless steel version of the model.


Your numbering sounds not quite right.   It sounds like a standard setup, with supply coming into the fan box, supply being carried onward to the next load, and a switch loop for the fan.

Looking at the two whites with the pigtail, these are actually neutral, two whites come from supply and go to onward.  You don't need to care which is which.  The pigtail is neutral for the fan.

In the bundle with two blacks and 1 white, the two blacks go to supply and onward.   The white is being correctly used as always-hot in the switch loop.   White is used to make it easier for electricians to realize this is not a neutral wire; it is always hot and is easily detected.   It should be wrapped in black tape on both ends to designate it a re-tasked hot.

The remaining loose black is switched-hot from the switch loop to the fan.

The fan connects to that loose black (switched-hot) and the white pigtail (neutral).


Does FENSA certificate prove that bay window meets structural requirements?

The FENSA website says:

  FENSA covers the replacement of external windows, doors, roof windows
  and roof lights against the relevant Building Regulations in domestic
  properties on the original foot print of the property where the use or
  size of rooms have not been altered.

And Approved Document A is titled "Building regulation in England covering the structural elements of a building".

So in theory a FENSA certificate should guarantee that the new windows won't cause any structural issues (in addition to not falling out and hurting someone, providing adequate insulation, etc).
In practice, it's quite possible that the installer (or building control officer) didn't do their job correctly and that the certificate is meaningless.
More likely is that the surveyor raised a concern to cover themselves, just in case.

The houses I'm familiar with all have lintels above the windows and the window frames themselves aren't structural. You might start by asking the surveyor for further details. If they're not in a position to provide more information, the safest thing to do is commission another surveyor or structural engineer to look specifically at this problem (and any other concerns that were raised) and provide an official report that you can provide to your lender or insurer if required.


Dual pressure switch / dual pressure tank issues

As far as I know, "radon bubblers" operate at no pressure (so you can bubble air through the water to remove the radon) and therefore the well side of this system needs only to provide adequate pressure to put water into the radon bubbler. 20/40 might do if it does not have a higher input pressure requirement. Since the pressure there is zero, there's no relationship between the incoming water pressure and the outgoing water pressure.

All the house pressure and flow comes from the pump & tank going out of the radon bubbler system (at least when it's operational) and that would be the one you'd want to be bigger, unless it was a variable speed / "constant pressure" pump - if set to 40/60, probably not.

If the well pressure goes to zero, it's likely that the well pressure tank is improperly set (too high) for the well pressure switch, not anything to do with the smaller tank, but perhaps that contributed to the radon system's pump overheating (if the well-water input was intermittent.) If the switch is actually coming on at 30 PSI, the tank pressure (with the system off and drained) should be about 27 PSI. The small tank should be set at 37 PSI if its pump comes on at 40 PSI. If you changed the well to 20/40 you'd change the air on the well system to 17.

Then again, running 40/60 into a small tank, that pump was probably cycling on/off a lot, and a bigger tank there (or an additional. bigger tank there, if the small one is in good shape) might well help the pump survive longer. Presumably consistent water input by correcting the well pressure tank setting might also help. I'd also correct the dubious plumbing job that left you with no pressure gauge on the 40/60 system.


Installing a permeate pump on a manifold-style RO system

I'm not sure if I understand your drawing, but I think you're saying you want to add a pump on the product side to keep pressure above 42 psi. I don't believe this is going to work due to the shut off valves. I'm pretty sure that if you attempt this your RO will never turn on.

Here is how the ASV (automatic shut off valve)  works. The feed water is connected to the ASV on the indicated port, which goes to the membrane element.   Some are in and out in the same side, some are straight thru.

The product water somewhere after the check valve is hooked up to the other side. Inside is a diaphragm valve. When your tank is empty, this valve is forced open by the incoming pressure (for simplicity let's say 60psi). The ASV pressure is specified in ratios but a good one is 2/3.  So this means that when the product water reached 40psi the feed water will be shut off to the membrane. And of course the product water doesn't flow backwards due to the check valve. The physics of how this is done might be explained later. But that's how those work.   It should make sense why you can't just put a pump on the product water. You also just can't add air to the tank for a higher faucet pressure either.  The limiting factor is that 3 in our ASV 2/3 ratio.

But is there a solution: raise the feed pressure.

Membranes operate better on high pressure. They tend to last longer but more importantly its rejection rate is much higher than when run at line pressure.   But we have to get rid of our ASV, and substitute a couple of pressure switches; one high pressure switch for the product side and a low pressure switch for the feed side. The HP switch will turn the RO pump on and thus make water until it reaches its set pressure then turns the pump off and then stops making water.   The low pressure switch protects your pump in case your feed water pressure drops or if it gets no water at all.

What's the risk? Let's say your feed pressure is greatly lowered.  Maybe a fire in the neighborhood and the fire trucks are using all the water.  So your RO kicked off. But no big deal right.  Well after they removed their back flow preventer a bunch of contaminate was stirred up and plugged your pressure regulator. No water or low flow condition.

You don't notice and go to use your insta hot. It works fine, but all of a sudden you tank is empty and the heater burns up. This is a crazy example but you have to keep in mind that if something happens to the pump then your insta hot is in trouble.

What do I recommend?  Leave the insta hot on the soft water. And just use the RO for the faucet and icemaker.

Adding a pump is not all that uncommon the benefits are staggering but to retrofit one to a unit especially under counter had some major drawbacks: the pump will be noisy, and high pressure across old plastic spells flood.

The higher pressure switch had a range let's say 30-60psi but our tank pressure needs to be 28psi, so that the RO doesn't need to run very long to keep that switch closed.

Hope some of this helped.


Electrical circuit dead, wire seems broken

From the information that you gave so far it would seem pretty conclusive that the red wire has broken open between your test outlet box and the power panel.

Did the red wire circuit outlets ever work?

If they did work at one time can you think of any key events that may have occurred between them working and not working?  Think about things like installation of any thing that required drilling, nailing or screwing into wall or ceilings anywhere. Were there any key plumbing problems that required repair where adjacent wiring may have been disturbed? Also do not discount any possibilities that work was done on an attic space or crawlspace where any romex type wiring may have been stressed or pulled on.

Any of the above could be clues as to what may have happened to open up the red wire circuit.

Beyond that there is always the possibility that there is another junction box between the breaker panel and the outlet box that you have been testing in. There could be a connection within such electrical box that has come open and disrupted the red wire circuit.


I would be installing 4"x4" joist hangers between the rafters and set in  pieces of 4x4 P.T. lumber. If you are hanging the bed with chains, I'd drill through the 4x4's at the appropriate spot and insert bolts with washers and nuts on top. Good luck.


ceiling fan installation with two white wires

You're likely seeing what's called a "switch loop". So the white wire of the cable running between the switch and the light, is used as the switched hot.  The wire should be reidentified as such, but it's often not.

If you're connecting the new light exactly as the old light was, you're probably okay. Use a voltmeter or multimeter to confirm, or have a look in the switch box.


Inexpensive ideas to extend the height of my fence cinderblock wall outdoors

Install 1/2" or  3/4 inch EMT tubing by drilling a 5/8" or 1 inch hole on top of the wall. Conduit cost under $4 and under $6 respectively for a 10 foot length.
the 3/4 inch can be spaced further than the 1/2". You could probably getaway with cutting each length in half (or 3rds) so as to get additional posts. Sink them 8-10 inches.
Attach the shade cloth with self tapping pan head screws.
Be aware of wall and fence maximum height codes in your municipality.


What section of California plumbing code pertains to water main lines?

Title 24- California Building Standards Code, Part 5 is the California Plumbing Code. It is based on the ANSI Uniform Plumbing Code. You can view it for free on line.

I do not think there is any requirement that it be buried. If you do bury it, it must be "... not less than 12" below average local frost depth..." and "...not less than 12" below finish grade...". See Chapter 609.

You should always ask your local Authority Having Jurisdiction.


What are safe alternatives of electrical tape?

As far as safe, duct tape is conductive in some brands especially when wet. Scotch tape is not conductive but it lacks the dielectric properties especially over a shattered globe to be considered safe. To be safe don't use this string of lamps.

Festoon lighting is normally used outdoors or on construction jobs. With a damaged lamp that gets wet a greater shock hazard is there. It would be better to remove the bulb than to have the broken parts extending from the socket.


Choosing a material to cover wood and paint with emulsion

Depending on how fussy you are, the best thing to look like drywall is drywall. It may also be the least expensive thing that looks like drywall.

I have built a bookcase (attached to the floor and ceiling, so functionally a wall) with a drywall backing, mudded the drywall as usual and indeed the other side looks just like a wall. You have to accept that you have limited attachment points for the drywall (unless there's a terribly thick back on the shelf, which would be unusual) and that will upset folks that want it attached as if there were studs there, but this has not proven to be a problem as far as I can tell. I carefully marked where the fixed uprights and fixed horizontal shelves were, and screwed into those.

You could probably use resilient channel if you wanted a better screwing situation, but you give up some space and add issues treating the end to cover the gap that would create behind the drywall.


"all 4 wires are yellow" -> an electrician after my own heart!  Those are my preferred colors.
Here is how 4-ways are wired.

As you see, the yellow wires (yours actually are that color) come from 2 different places. A pair of yellows comes from one place, and a pair of yellows comes from another place.
Your setup will be in conduit, since nobody makes yellow-yellow-red cables... and much of Chicagoland requires metal conduit.  (that's why there are no ground WIRES; the metal conduit is a superb ground).
So it's as simple as identifying the two pairs.  That's easy because each pair will be in a different pipe.  Hook up the 2 black screws to one pair.  It's downhill from there.

If they're all in one pipe, then yikes. The installer should have done something to mark them as pairs.  Look for black and brass screws on the old switch.
Worse comes to worst, if you have to decrypt this, make a test apparatus. Lop the plug end off a $2 extension cord, and plug a night light into it. Simple night light, not a smart light-sensor job.  Split the wires for about 8" and strip the ends. Mark the ribbed wire white and the non-ribbed wire black.
Illegally attach the white wire to the metal of the junction box, i.e. by abusing a mounting screw.  Connect the black to one of the yellows.  (all with the power off, of course).
Turn the power on, and see if the light lights.  Then run around and flip 1 switch at a time, checking in between every switch throw.  If that light comes on in certain switch positions, you have identified a supply-side yellow.  Turn off power and do it all again with the other 3 yellows to identify the other supply-side yellow.  Now, mark those two with black electrical tape for next time!


Do drywall cracks pose any risk for further damage?

Assuming your unit is similar to those outside your window. The crack is worthy to keep an eye on.
If there is a beam in that bulkhead, there could be a shoddy load support in the wall under it or in the floor below. Is the lower floor(basement)finished?
Depends on where you are located,  structural defects such as that crack indicates is typically covered under the new home warranty.
Structural engineers or Building science engineers will have the expertise to identify if there is reason to escalate the issue.


Residential clothes dryers typically vent at a temperature of around 130°-165°F (54°-74°C). Wikipedia gives the glass transition temperature (colloquially the melting point) of ABS as 221°F (105°C). Even assuming that you get a perfect heat transfer, you'll be fine.


Options for replacing a broken kitchen faucet head?

For the individual faucet parts you will need to go to the manufacturer and purchase it from them (or another parts supplier... just search "kitchen faucet head" and you will find many different results).  You can also try just going to Lowes or Home Depot or your local hardware store and see if they have a generic replacement head.  The Home Depot site lists one: Spray-Head for Kitchen Pull-Out Faucets but it says it is only available in store.

But most likely the cost of the individual part (plus the shipping and handling) will be close to or more than putting in an entirely new faucet.  And since the head piece broke then most likely the rest of the faucet is getting old too so it might not be a bad idea to replace the entire kitchen faucet.  Replacing a kitchen faucet is not too hard; the hardest part is removing the old faucet (plus squeezing yourself under the sink).


why does the hot water boiler used for heat, open up and release water then close back up?

The relief valve is working as it should,likely the expansion tank has gone bad. The expansion tank has a air filled ballon inside that expands and contracts with the different temperatures of the water. Without it the boiler will fill up to the proper pressure then when the water gets hot the water pressure increases and then makes the relief valve go off and then the hole cycle starts again.


How can I adjust for an uneven exterior door threshold?

One way to address this problem is to acquire a lower door threshold seal unit that slides onto the bottom of the door and is adjustable by sliding up and down to the threshold. They are then fixed into place using screws through the side flanges into the lower rail of the door.

Here is a picture of what the product looks like. They are sized to the specific thickness of the door.

You would remove any existing lower door seal before installing the new seal. In some cases it may be necessary to trim the door some if the lower height requirement of the new piece is more than the current gap under the door.

You should be able to find these at most big box home stores. I saw mention of the orange one online.


Mounting to hollow wall through slate tile

You could use a toggle for one of the holes and a very small masonry screw for the other.  The toggle will be doing all the heavy lifting, the small masonry screw will just be there for looks and to keep the robe hook from rotating.

Spax and other brands make small screws that can be used for light loads in masonry without an anchor.  The smaller sizes require only a 1/8" or 5/32" pilot hole.  That would give you about a quarter inch between holes.


is fire alarm system conduit color clearly identified on NFPA or UFC?

The only marking I am aware of is the branch circuit circuit breaker is required to be identified with RED, and the location of the OCPD is to be permanently identified at the fire alarm control panel NEC 2014 760.41 & 760.121. NFPA 72 is referenced in the commentary for 760.41 with the same information and no colored conduit requirement.


Paint fades.

It is extremely hard to get an exact match on any paint after a few months.  The best solution is to paint a whole section (try ending at the edge of a window or door) or even a whole wall.

An even better approach is to cut out a small patch of the now faded wall to be matched (you can patch and paint it later when you repaint) and take it in to the paint store for a computer scan match.

You still should paint a whole section as described above, but the joint will be even less noticable.


Why would both switches on a 3-way switch fail simultaneously?

I wouldn't pay too much attention to the 92V unless there is some true current (amperage) running through it as it might be trace voltage.

This diagram belongs to do-it-yourself-help.com. The original can be found here: https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/3_way_switch_wiring.html

You need to find the source voltage and confirm you have power there. In the image above it is sourcing from one of the three way switches and it will always terminate there. That's where I would start looking, try and find the source voltage of 120V and start working from there. The other common is always the switch leg. Then you have the two carriers.

I know this sounds stupid but did you check the breaker and made sure you had power to the switches? Most of the time failure is at the weakest points. That would be splices and connections and the switches themselves. So go through and check all splices, connections and switches one at a time. Switches do break so look for actions that feel broken or are making noises like something is loose or broke free. Normally switches do not go bad together but even one going bad could stop the lights from working. The good news is that it is rare for the problem would be in the light fixtures, but that doesn't rule them out. It would just be the last place I would look.


How do I calculate the takeoff for a 45 degree elbow joint?

First, a definition of "take off":
The length of pipe to be removed (taken off) such that a pipe and a fitting make a specific length.  The term is a concept shorthand used by pipefitters and plumbers.  This is not the same as a material takeoff, which is a list of all materials needed for a project.

Take-offs in general are specific to pipe construction (PVC, copper, etc.) and is a function of diameter.

As suggested by bcworkz, tables for a given diameter and style of pipe are the best method for an accurate measurement.

The formula (listed in your link) .625 x pipe size (don't use the 25.4 factor, unless you are using millimeters) should give you a ballpark for a 45 fitting.


How to light the pilot for an old Gas Heater

Call the gas company.

If they aren't also the power company and there isn't a power crisis like a wind storm, then they'll often send someone out to light it for you for free.

The gas company's perspective is they would much rather make a service call than have you attempt to light it and fail (e.g. Due to an obsolete or defective valve) and blow your house up.  That also lets them put eyes on your setup, do a safety check, and give you advice if you need it.  If they have conservation incentive programs that your unit qualifies for, they can have that conversation with you too.


plaster shower walls, how to do them today?

What you cover the walls with certainly does matter if it can be damaged by water, as many forms of plaster can--such as modern gypsum plaster, which softens and disintegrates in the presence of water. The only way I can imagine a plaster shower working is if you perfectly waterproof the cementboard with a paintable waterproofing membrane like RedGard (preferred) or poly sheeting behind the cementoard, and then use old-fashioned lime plaster, and then paint the lime plaster with multiple coats of a waterproof but vapor-permeable silicate mineral paint or some other type of vapor-permeable waterproofing agent.

But this is a totally non-expert perspective; I have never built a plaster shower and the whole idea sounds risky and ill-advised to me. If you want to go with this approach, you should probably bring in a pro.


Patch holes on engineered wood (masonite) siding and mounting security camera

You could use this Exterior Post Top and either paint or stain it before installation. It already has a hole drilled in the center where you can run the wire through. You can also use the siding groove (where the holes are drilled) as a raceway for the wiring. This will prevent you from pinching the wire when you affix it to the wall. You can fasten this plate with two or three screws in such a way that your camera would cover them. All that would be left is that tiny hole at the top where the screw is. Just caulk that and touch it up with some paint.


What is this utility box found above a basement bathroom?

Looks like a telephone wire. Also looks like an old style 4-prong telephone jack (inside a fancy metal housing that's a new one on me.) Do you still have an active land-line?


If you have an existing fan, you should be able to replace the motor only. Turn off power, remove faceplate, unplug motor. Remove motor. Install new motor, plug in new motor. Turn on power and test, replace faceplate.

A picture of the housing your fan is in would help a lot.


What kind of cable and connectors are these?

Those are not connectors but are "Cable Gland" style strain reliefs similar to this one:

While this is not the only manufacturer of these products, it is one example:
LAPP USA


Only if it's being used as the first means of disconnect. Try and find your meter and see if there isn't a Main Fuse or Breaker beside it.


Assuming that the water does not continue to drain after it reaches the half-inch drop, I believe that what you're seeing is by design (intentional or otherwise). When the tank on the toilet refills, a small portion of that water goes to the toilet bowl to refill it. The bowl is typically overfilled to ensure the water level fills up to the edge of the siphon (I'm going to refer to it as such, even though this is not the name on many newer toilets) to prevent sewer gas leakage, and the excess drains over the edge. I suspect that your toilet is of such a design that the water level inside the siphon equalizes slower than one would expect.

There are a number of reasons that the water level could equalize more slowly; some models create a back-pressure inside the siphon, some create a positive air pocket for additional suction during the flush, or it could just be the intentional design of the siphon.

I doubt it is something to worry about.


Do separate pieces of EMT conduit qualify as "pull points"?

NO! Regular couplings, those in the first image, are NOT pull points. Pull points are conduit bodies or boxes, or even those silly little elbows in the second image.

My suggestion would be to install a conduit body at strategic locations. For your installation you really only need one.

Conduit bodies:


What are these black bugs and how do I get rid of them?

I agree with Daniel they look like what we used to call sugar ants but the photo is kind of blurry, lots of different ant baits out there will work, or things like diatomaceous earth spread where they are traveling will cut them up, wear a dust mask if you use this because it’s not good to breathe but it is non toxic (used in swimming pool filters) if you don’t want to use poison.


Even on a good day, brad nails can curl on you. Through your fingers, if you aren't careful.

However, if you look closely at the pointy end of a strip of nails, you'll see that they're cut at an angle on only two sides. (The other two sides are the ones adjacent to their neighbors in the strip.) Anyway, the nail is predisposed to curl in the direction of one of the cut sides.

(Phrased another way, if you hold the nailgun vertical, the nails are prone to curling left or right.)

So you can use this to your advantage... if you're nailing into the edge of plywood, have the nailgun perpendicular to the plywood. That way, if you get a curl, it's probably contained within the ply, as opposed to shooting out the side.

You didn't ask, but a tip for those nasty curl outs: bend the end of the nail back and forth. It'll usually break below the surface of the wood, and you can fill. If there's not much nail to grab, use needlenose pliers.


How should I prepare a sub-floor for porcelain tile?

wirelath nailed over the plywood(overlapping the lath 2",use paper backed lath to avoid moisture of setting/grout materials)nail or staple(pneumatic,not a hand staple)in a 8"x8" grid.wire acts as a trampoline,the thinset gets into the mesh but won't twist when the plywood deflects.normal thin-set is fine in the application(unless a modified is needed for the tile).


What wire gauge is required for a 220V air compressor?

Since it's on a 40 amp breaker I would use #8 THHN.  5HP is only 3750 watts (1 HP = 750 Watts (rounding up)) so you are only pulling less than 18 amps when running.  Start up amps will be around 36 amps (rule of thumb) so that should be covered by the 40 amp breaker.  You can also use @Tester101 suggestion also.

If this is an expensive piece of garage furniture you might make sure that magnetic starter has heater protection and phase drop protection, which will even work on single phase which will shut down the motor if one of the legs drop out.  Heaters are over current protection.  This sort of depends on the compressor because the starter could cost more than the compressor.


Is there a tool to pinpoint an exact location through wood?

Use a long, small diameter drill bit from below and drill all the way through the beam and the roof. To prevent water intrusion, fill the hole with silicone caulk from above prior to making your attachment, then simply patch the beam from below with wood putty or spackle and paint/stain to match.


If it's a small load like a timer motor, the appliance could be "hacked" by adding a tiny 240/120v transformer to produce the 120V within the appliance.

I would consult with the factory to see exactly how they use 120V within the appliance and if they have any sanctioned kit or instructions to do just that.

Very often, 240V appliances have some control that is 120V.  When they sell that same appliance in East Asia, which is all 240V-only, they add a tiny 120V transformer just as I describe.    That "East Asian" spec is perfectly compatible with US power and they could market them here... but they want to pinch pennies, so they remove the $2 transformer and require a neutral.

So if it's possible to convert the appliance to East Asian spec, that may be cheaper than running new cable with neutral.


This vent should not interfere with standard insulation. If you have to remove some of the insulation to fit it in make up for it by adding insulation to the vent. Wrapping the vent pipe with insulation is a good idea. So the air remains warm until it exits the house. This reduces the chance of the water condensing inside your house or dryer vent. Attach insulation with foil based duct tape and caulk where pipe exits the house.


Leveling a sinking 1st floor addition that is about 4' off the ground

You can do it but there may be complications. When stabilizing a job like this I would want to pour a few new footings much larger than what you have and probably add a few. When jacking the frame everything from roof leaks, doors not closing and broken pipes are a possibility.


20 amp breaker with 12 gauge and 14 gauge wire

It is generally NOT okay to have a 20A circuit breaker on a circuit that has any 14 gauge wire -- and most homeowners won't run into the exceptions

If there's any #14 wire anywhere downstream, you must use a 15A breaker to protect that wire. It's about fire prevention. #14 wire is rated for 15A. Sure, it will carry more, but the N.E.C. ampacity ratings take into account the resistance of the wire insulation to heat and other factors. Bottom line, #14 wire equals 15A breaker.

It's fine (or even required) to oversize the conductors, but not to oversize the breaker (except under rare circumstances that you'll never need to know about unless you become a licensed electrician or wind up doing funny things with motors that invoke Article 430). #12 wire on a 15A breaker is fine. The wire is protected. For longer runs, for example using #12 wire on a 15A breaker or #10 wire on a 20A breaker will reduce voltage drop. There are calculations for wire size related to voltage drop over distance that tell you when you need bigger conductors.

Why was this done?

Hazarding a guess, the person who did it might have had some #14 Romex lying around the garage. Maybe they didn't want to run out and buy some #12, or felt they couldn't afford it. Maybe they bought #14 on purpose just because it was cheaper and they didn't understand the requirements. Or maybe they reasoned that it was okay since the only load on those #14 wires would be the lights, which would never draw more than about an Amp per fixture. That's true enough, technically speaking, as long as nothing ever goes wrong, but it still illegal (actually illegal, because it violates the N.E.C. rules).

But stuff does go wrong, so you never intentionally create a situation that has the potential to start fires or electrocute people.

A few (far from exhaustive) examples of things that could go wrong include; somebody comes along and replaces one of those fixtures with a bigger fixture, or with one of those fixtures with a receptacle on it, or adds a convenient receptacle elsewhere on the 14 gauge stretch of the same circuit, or both. Or something goes wrong with one of the light fixtures that causes it to steadily draw more current than it was meant to, and all of a sudden you have a circuit breaker that will happily feed 20A onto #14 wire for long periods of time.


If photos 6/7 are indicating you have some kind of dropped ceiling, then you definitely cannot attach this to the dropped ceiling. It won't support any load.

Best option in that case is to build a free standing structure and hang your bag on that. A couple of A frames and a beam going across the top where you'd attach the bag would be easy to build. Use a few bolts for the assembly and it would also be easy to disassemble and relocate. Keep the span of the feet wider than the maximum swing of the bag to avoid having it tip over.