Fixing streaky pickling (whitewash) stain

I would say that you need to follow the directions on both the conditioner and the stain very carefully. It says to sand in the direction of the grain with sand paper and not with steel wool, and it needs to be applied with a synthetic bristle brush and not a natural bristle brush because it is water based.

If that doesn't help, then I would experiment with a new product. I might first apply a sealer coat and then carefully apply a coat of white rustoleum enamel thinned very heavily with paint thinner (mineral spirits). I did this to some old douglas fur and it looked really cool. However, I don't have a recommendation for a durable top coat. Epoxy would surly work if you want to go that route but it gets pricey and messy and there's a problem with bubbles that form after it's applied. The rustoleum enamel is oil based so an oil based poly would be ok on top of it I think but I wouldn't try any other oils like tung oil, tru oil, etc.

Another thing you might want to look into is wood dye, not a stain but a dye! Usually water based, I believe, they're used to lighten or darken the color of wood and change the way the grain looks.

Get creative!


Deck or Patio - Landscape Design Opinions

I am thinking remove the wrought iron railing and project a deck out at the same level as the porch, with broad steps down and a cut-out along the wall for AC unit and shrubs/trees. This will relieve you of expensive ground work necessary to make a level patio (whether pavers or slab) due to the slope. It will also look nicer, IMO, but will of course require upkeep. Might need handrails on the left side (or all the way round) depending on final height (and aesthetics).


Clothes dryer causing humidity problems in garage - would extraction fan help?

You need to vent the dryer to the outside. Blowing moisture from your dryer, or bath vent, into the attic will cause mold and rot in your attic, possibly water damage on your walls and ceilings when it condenses, and may eventually cause roof damage. As a plus, venting the dryer outside can shorten your drying time and save some energy ($$$).


Water heater pilot lights but burner doesn't ignite

If I understand correctly, your pilot flame is lighting correctly. But the main burner won't turn on because the electronics in the Gas Control Valve don't acknowledge the pilot is lit.

There are two likely faults:

Thermopile is not sensing the flame correctly, or
Circuit Board in the Gas Control Valve is defective.

To test for case 1, use a multimeter to measure the Thermopile output. It should be at least 350mV. Here are instructions on how to do that:

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Test-thermocouple-and-thermopile.pdf

If the Thermopile output is less than 350mV, you may remove it from the burner and clean off any corrosion.

If the Thermopile output is adequate, the fault lies within the Gas Control Valve. Unfortunately, there are no user-serviceable parts in there, so you would need to replace that entire assembly.


Are utility lights with an outlet recommended or are there good reasons not to use them?

The light

The luminaire (that porcelain thing) is bad news in a closet, whether it has a socket or not.  NEC 410.16, "Luminaires in clothes closets".  While 410.16 covers what is permitted, 410.16(B) swerves out of its way to outlaw that particular type.

This may not be strictly speaking a clothes closet, but utility closets also get used for things that can catch fire.  410.16 seeks to prevent a particular type of fire, and I have witnessed that type of fire starting (and intervened obviously), and it was a utility closet.  More to the point, very good products are available today -- why not use them?  So let's use 410.16A as a guidestar, even though it may not be technically a clothes closet.

Where safe to use, the luminaires are fine with or without socket. I use arrays of them for ceiling lighting in basement/shop spaces. They are so cheap that even with steel octagon boxes and EMT conduit, material cost is ~$5 a lamp.  It lets me put my glut of obsolete CFLs to good use. Anyway...

410.16A says you can only use one of

Surface-mount or recessed incandescent or LED luminaires with completely enclosed light sources (i.e. the light emitter is behind a glass or plastic bezel and the luminaire is rated for the heat of the fully enclosed bulb including an incandescent if those exist for the socket type, because somebody will).
Surface-mounted or recessed fluorescent luminaires (but don't)
Surface-mounted fluorescent or LED luminaires identified as suitable for installation within the closet storage space (i.e. the manufacturer has specifically listed the fixture for installation in closets.)

410.16C is very particular about location, for every type except 3.  I  typed in all the gory details, then deleted it because it doesn't matter; it's clear that Code is working pretty hard to herd you into type 3 above.

Figure on this being an LED fixture with integral emitters (no bulbs to change).  It's pretty easy to make those cool enough to be safe in a closet.  That's the right thing for this job and this location.

The receptacle

Any new closet receptacle needs to be AFCI protected.  You might be able to find listed-for-closet LED fixtures with convenience receptacles, but I wouldn't count on it.  If your heart's set on a receptacle there, I'd fit a surface conduit adapter box on top of that octagon box, both because it'll give you space for a normal receptacle (with a special cover plate) and also allow you to extend via surface conduit to another location for the luminaire.

You still need to figure out the AFCI thing; you can't put an AFCI+receptacle combo device in an octagon box - it won't fit.  So the AFCI will need to go somewhere upstream.  Normally you replace the circuit breaker with a breaker+AFCI, because bonus, it also protects the house wiring from problems in the wires or receptacles, which has proven to be so useful they are now required on lots of circuits.

P.S. Here's 410.16 verbatim:


How should I connect my cat5 cable to connectors having an orange-green line?

That's not "orange/green", it is T568A vs. T568B
Cat 3/5/6 cabling can be connected in two "flavors" - T568A and T568B. The cable (without ends attached) is the same and they are functionally identical. The only question is the sequence - Blue/Orange/Green/Brown vs. Blue/Green/Orange/Brown. Most connectors & jacks include color-coding for both types, marked "A" and "B", so that you can mix & match parts from different brands and have everything work together. You can actually see that in the image if you look closely - A and B are printed on top of the color coding on both left (solid blue, pin 4) and right (brown/white, pin 7).  If your device says "Cable should be T586A CAT 5" and you wire it up T586B CAT 5e, it will work just fine, because the electrons don't care about the insulation color.
I usually use T568B, but it really doesn't matter as long as you are consistent - i.e., both ends of each cable should (normally) be the same.
What does matter is the quality of the connection.
Each new cable type 3 -> 5 -> 5e -> 6 puts in new, more exacting requirements on the number of twists and other factors. So make sure any connectors, adapters, splices, etc. meet the requirements of the cable type you want to use. If you have Cat 6 everywhere except one segment is Cat 5e then you'll be fine with Cat 5e speeds but Cat 6 might not work, and you may have trouble figuring out why things aren't working right. So I would at a minimum use the same quality/specification for everything that is hidden - wall jacks, cable inside walls, splices in the attic, etc.


Can these windows be shuttered from light in a simple and efficient way?

(That window type is called jalousie or louver windows, by the way.)
If you search for "jalousie window seal", you'll get some products that come in a roll and assist in sealing the gap between each window. That should help with the airtightness, though not as much as a real window would.
You could also use an "interior storm window"/"storm window insert", which is basically a sheet of plexiglass with a seal around the outside, designed to fit snugly in the window. This is a somewhat expensive and bulky solution, but would actually seal the window. Up to you if $100+ is worth it for something that you'd leave with the apartment after a year. (It's also possible to hand-make something like this. The tricky part is the seal.)
For light blocking, I would suggest paired command adhesive hooks, (the bigger ones) and stringing a curtain rod between them. Looking at the blinds on my patio door, which use a similar design, you should be able to squeeze a curtain between the blinds and the wall, though you'd need to do the curtains as a pair because of the support in the middle. If you can't fit the curtains back there, go over the top; place the hooks as far up the wall as you can (remember that the hooks need a bit of room above them) then just drape them over the blinds. Looks ugly, but it works; had the same setup growing up.
If that's not working out well, my backup recommendation would be a four-poster bed. Instead of using blackout curtains on the actual window, you get a four-poster bedframe, and just hang heavy fabric off of that instead.
jalousie window seal: first Google shopping result. Not a recommendation, I haven't used this or researched this product that well. Note that this goes over the edge of each glass pane, fitting between that pane and the next. It's sold as a roll, and is cut to length. You can buy this from multiple sources, but I suspect they're all pulling from the same factory.
Interior storm window site: first Google result. Not a recommendation. Here, you have choices. You can roll your own with a trip to the hardware store (plexiglass, cutter, and something for the edges), get a kit (you still buy the plexiglass locally, but the other stuff gets shipped), or buy premade online. All these options are kind of expensive.
Command Adhesive This actually is a product recommendation. Command Adhesive is what I've used in all the places I've rented to hang curtains in my bedroom. It's designed to hold, and be removed without damage. I'm recommending the brushed nickel hook as it looks a bit better than the plastic ones, and the 5lb one because there's a possibility that you'll need to put it over top of the existing blinds, and Command Adhesive is weakest at withstanding pulling.
Four-poster bed: selected because it's less horrifically expensive compared to some of the other options. Not a product recommendation.


What replacement breaker for a Gould GQF20MB panel?

Siemens has 2 lineages of panel: The ex-Murray line and  the ex-ITE line.  Yours is the latter.
I believe the QPs are indeed the right ones.  A Siemens dealer (electrical supply house) could cross-check it in their book to be sure. Or I have a feeling ThreePhaseEel will be along momentarily to same effect :)


Home electric circuit goes dead without tripping breaker

I would be verifying that all 8 outlets are not working, this is quite common with backstab outlets that are daisy chained. The problem is usually found at the first non working outlet or the last working outlet. This failure is much more common than a circuit breaker failure. The open circuit condition can be on the black or white wire, if it starts working after pulling the outlet and back stabs were used the outlet should be at a minimum rewired to the screw terminals or replace the outlet with a spec grade 4$ vs a .98$ outlet , but verify the working / non working outlets.
There is a slight possibility of a bad panel with FPR or federal pacific stab lock breakers or a zinsco these are known to have issues and are beyond the average home owner repair, verify all the outlets first next time it goes out.


Ceiling light turns on when outlet draws power, followed by power loss

It is possible that the outlets in that room are all wired into the dimmer switch such that simple lamps plugged into the outlets can be dimmed. If this is the case computers and monitors will not function properly when plugged into a dimmer circuit.

The simple test you can try is to get a simple incandescent light (lamp, trouble light or night stand lamp) and plug it into each outlet in that room and see if it responds to the dimmer switch in a normal manner. If you get other results than dimmer behavior then that is a trigger event to get the landlord or apartment manager involved.


Wiring a 5 ton rooftop unit and a 220 plug

Yeah, that's fine but you have to follow the rules.

The fill rules

All wires count.  (In switch loops, neutrals also count even if they're not even present).

There are various conduit fill calculators around the Web and on smartphone apps.

The derate rules

Grounds don't count.
If there are 2 or 3 hot wires, neutrals don't count because they only carry differential current
This means in 120/240V single or split phase, 1 circuit always counts as 2 wires.
You have 4 wires
NEC 310.15(B)(2) calls for an 80% derate. But wait.
The derate is off the 90C column in 310.15(B)(16), or to be more precise the highest column allowed by the wire type; so for instance THWN (not THWN-2) uses the 75C column.  There is a special rule that NM uses the 90C column even though it is 60C wire, but NM better not be outside.  I presume your wire is THWN***-2***, which is 90C, so here we go:

THWN-2 #8 gets 55A@90C, it derates 80% to 44 amps.
THWN-2 #10 gets 40A@90C, it derates 80% to 32 amps.

Well, that's not so bad.  You are still capped at the 30A and 40A limits, so this doesn't really limit you.

3 circuits (6 wires) uses the same derate.

4 circuits uses a 70% derate, which will bite you on #10 and #8, (28A and 38.5A), however you get to round up to the next available breaker size, so you dodge a bullet.


How to replace beam with supporting wall

I wouldn’t remove the posts. The posts have footings that support the loads from the beam.
If you remove the posts and build a wall, you’ll need to install a footing under the new wall.
I’d just build a non-structural infill wall under the beam.


I’m sorry for wasting everyone’s time. I made a complete mistake and I appreciate everyone’s suggestions. But after troubleshooting more I had an epiphany. The day before this started I did work on another switch that was on the same circuit and one wire came off and happened to touch the other. I reattached the one that came off and problem solved. Had nothing to do with anything in this box, but another.


Can I run two 15amp breakers (in a 70amp panel in my shed) off of a 20amp breaker from the main 100amp panel?

Since the feed from your main panel is on a 20 amp breaker and 20 amps is allowable for lighting and 120V outlet circuits, there's no reason to add a subpanel. The 20A breakers you'd put in the subpanel would be redundant. If you want a master switch in the shed, I'd suggest using a non-fused SPA/air-conditioning disconnect box. These are typically designed for two-leg 240V but you can just use one side.

All of the above assumes that you are in the USA and are keeping the circuit 120V and not 240V.


I don't think it would be a good idea.
It would be vital you to know the possible ambient temperature of the space you are running you're conductors or cabling while the heater was running. Basic apprenticeship instruction teaches that heat has the greatest effect on the function of your circuitry.
NEC Table 310.15(B)(2) shows the multiplier you should use when calculating the current carrying conductors when your ambient temperature exceeds 104F or 40C. Even if you were using 90C insulation if you exceed 80C or 170F you should not use it at all. This would not melt the insulation and is certainly below combustible material levels, but it would effect your circuitry and its ability to carry current.
So if you have no other option but to run new circuits down this chase. You really need to be absolute on the ambient operating air temperature and the types of electrical methods and material you can use to make it safe.
If this sounds like a little much for yourself as an individual, you might need to consult a professional to make the necessary calculations and recommendations.
Good luck and stay safe.


Can I install laminate (Pergo) flooring over previous underlayment?

I am sorry I don't have time to research this right now but I will give you a quick answer and maybe edit later.  First - call Pergo and ask.

Second, I have installed 4 different types of Pergo+underlayment and all of them say to take out old underlayment.  I think there is first an issue with the floor becoming too spongy and second if there is spongy/vertical movement it could could splintering or disconnecting of the tiles.

If your old underlayment is "padding" I would remove.  If it is just a thin vapor barrier then keep it.


Connecting push fit to a 3/8in supply faucet line: NPTF to compression threads?

You will need two fittings to connect 3/8 tubing to 3/8 compression together. Use Teflon tape between the two fittings to prevent leaks, but don't use any on the compression fitting. Remove and discard the brass compression nut and brass compression ring/sleeve to connect your 3/8 hose.

John Guest - Straight Adaptor – Nptf Thread

Part No. PI011223S --- TUBE OD 3/8" --- THREAD NPTF 3/8"

http://www.johnguest.com/product/inch-size-threaded-fittings/straight-adaptor-bsp-thread-3/

BrassCraft - Compression Female Adaptor

Part No. 66-6-6 --- 3/8 in. O.D. Tube x 3/8 in. FIP

https://www.brasscraft.com/product/38-in-o-d-tube-x-38-in-fip-3/


Gas fireplace pilot light goes out when fire turns off

I have found dirty burners end up with a little back pressure in the tubes and will flash back blowing the pilot out. If this is what you mean and if you can immediately relight the pilot within a couple of seconds of it going out. Cleaning the burner usually fixes things and in extreme cases I have made a shield out of a pop can cut with scissors to block the puff.
Most of the time cleaning has fixed things have worked for me.


I'm replacing the under-sink pipes, and I'm confused what connector this is

That's a flared fitting (see: flared fitting copper).  They are meant to accept the end of a piece of copper pipe, flared using a special tool.  Looking at the picture, it does seem that you might be able to replace that part under the sink with a brass fitting (see: brass male-male pipe nipple ) that will properly accept your hose, but it might be difficult, given the corrosion.


Thank you for asking. And yes absolutely, it could be/could've been for a refrigerator, dishwasher, humidifier, poorly and illegally done toilet, standalone ice maker or even a trap wetter for a basement floor drain.

It was done by someone for a reason, so you should find out exactly what that reason was/is...since you now know where its local shutoff is in the case of service or emergency.

Only if you can pull the hose all of the way out to find its not connected at all should you cap it or change to a regular shutoff valve. If you don't need it and it's not currently doing anything, then go ahead and delete it.


Will thinset be damaged if it gets wet after drying 18 hours?

Regarding strength, what's done is done.  I wouldn't worry a minute about it and certainly would not start taking up the tile in the off chance that somehow the mortar has been weakened.

In fact it can be helpful to keep mortar/cement/concrete damp for an extended period.

The spilled water does put an additional temporary moisture load on any wooden substructure, but again, this would be negligible in light of the original water content of the mortar.


Do you have to mount the main electric panel on a piece of plywood?

If in the US, the language is more general; fundamentally, the panel must be solidly supported, and not prone to fall off the wall as time passes. I personally prefer to have 5/8" type X drywall over the actual support when using a wooden support, for additional fire resistance. It's not required, but as the comments imply, your local "Authority Having Jurisdiction" (AHJ) is what really matters. That is your local electrical or building inspector; however, you can exceed their requirements so long as you actually meet them. That is where I'd class my affectation for firecode drywall on top of wood .vs. exposed wood.

The wall can be insulated, but the service entrance wire should pass though as directly as possible, and preferably in conduit.

From 2011 NEC:

  110.13 Mounting and Cooling of Equipment.

  (A) Mounting. Electrical equipment shall be firmly secured  to the
  surface on which it is mounted. Wooden plugs driven  into holes in
  masonry, concrete, plaster, or similar materials  shall not be used.

Having met a few things mounted this way, I can attest that wooden plugs in masonry rot, shrink, or both and do come loose, thus the specific exclusion.

Incidently, many panels can be mounted in the wall cavity between studs, though that can complicate the actual wiring in some ways. Perhaps that was what you were asking in the second question - it seemed like you were asking if a plywood mount could be placed that way. If it is your question, the answer is "Yes, if the box is designed for it and the wiring can be run in the space then available." It will reduce your wall insulation at that spot considerably. Many boxes will still need a solid support behind them, between the studs, to accommodate their mounting screw hole placement.


LED Light bulbs always blow prematurely in ceiling fans

In addition to the first answer... some LED lights are not dimmable. Therefore, if there is a speed switch and/or dimmer switch, make sure that: 1) the LED bulbs are dimmable, 2) the Dimmer/Speed switch is properly rated for fan and LED light use, and 3) the switch is wired properly.

If these are not the case, then the fan could be defective and causing the issue.


I ran into this one time where some self leveling concrete was added to a poorly poured floor after the cabinets were installed. You'll probably never really know why unless you contact the previous owners or even the ones before them. You would probably be better off just filling in the space with concrete because any water leaks or spills will just sit in there until they evaporate, causing mold and mildew.


Why is my garage grounded ONLY when it rains?

To me it sounds like the conduit was used as the grounding conductor, as allowed by code, and it rusted through, therefore it works when the ground is wet and you have a ground connection through the soil and water.  If this is the case, then an additional electrode at the garage probably won’t help as the pipe is in the ground.
Your electrician wanting to dig it up makes sense to me because when debris get in the pipe, it becomes impossible to pull new wire. With current code, the ground can be run separately, but that would be pushing the code in my opinion but legal. You can run a ground as long as they originate from the same panel.
Earth is a horrible conductor. I see high resistance quite often; this is why I don’t think another rod will help.


What hose do I use to connect my GE dishwasher to my sink's 3/4" Tee?

You'll want a barbed connector similar to this one:
Image courtesy of Lowes.com. Note that's not the right size, nor is it an adapter, it's just for illustration purposes.No endorsement intended or implied.
You'll want it to have a 3/4" barb on one end and 7/8" on the other end. You can use either plastic or brass, it doesn't matter.
I'd also suggest that you pick up hose clamps to put around where the hose ends go over the barbs, just for a bit of added security. A 1" hose clamp will adjust small enough to cover both the 3/4" and 7/8" connection with no issue, so a pair of them will be just fine. You'll probably want to be sure you've got one to attach the extender to the disposal intake as well. Better to spend an extra $2 (for expensive, fancy clamps) and not need them than to clean dirty, soapy water out from under the kitchen sink.


Cement around decorative bricks leaves grey/matte coating on bricks

Q1:

I would try a stiff brush and water.  If this does not work, you may be able to try a muriatic acid solution, but I would look at the manufacturer's recommendations first.  Depending on the brick color and type, this may discolor the brick.

Q2:

Apply the grout using a grout bag to minimize the mess.
When the joints are filled, wait until the grout is the consistency of wet beach sand.
Go over the joints with a brick jointer.
As you are jointing, periodically wipe down the brick surface with a wet mason's sponge to remove any grout from the brick face (clean the sponge out in a bucket of water as you go).


HPS bulbs and ballast wattage compatibilty vs replacement technologies

1.  With HPS, no for smaller bulbs on bigger ballasts.

Discharge lights are current devices. They are non-linear (behave almost like a dead short)  and so, must be externally current-limited.  That's the whole point of a ballast or driver.

HPS bulbs work at a specific current in one of four working voltage ranges (page 9): 52V, 55V, 100V or 250V plus or minus 15%.  To swap, the bulbs would need to be in the same voltage range.  Too small a bulb, the bigger ballast would force the higher current through the bulb, burning it out.  The reverse, the bulb might work, but might not warm up properly.

By comparison, if you stick a VHO 8' fluorescent tube in an HO fixture, you get HO light output from the VHO bulb.

2. Nope! Different and incompatible, especially ignitors

You absolutely cannot interchange various types of discharge lighting - not least because the way the ignitors work is very different.

Here, HPS is an odd duck.  It has an ignitor which fires a 2000-3000 volt spike to ignite the bulb. The supply is constant-current, so it will increase voltage under no load.  This triggers a VBO, which flows a burst of current into a winding on the ballast transformer, inducing a spike to the bulb.

They make special MH bulbs made to run on HPS fixtures; these are resistant to the spike and are tuned for HPS voltage and current. They cost 50-100% more than a stock HPS or MH bulb.

Other than that, facility managers don't intentionally use the wrong bulb.  Nobody will support that, so if you want to try it, you're on your own.  It will either not work, give poor life, burn out the ballast, or blow bulbs - and these suckers run very hot and you don't want molten sodium raining on your head.   Some are even reputed for starting fires.

3. LED replacements must be designed for that.

You linked a compromise screw-in LED meant to go into an HPS or other HID light without removing the ballast. If they are designed, (UL) listed, and labeled for that use, it's safe and legal.  Otherwise, it is not.  The operative word is "compromise".

HPS is more lumen-efficient than any but the most efficient LEDs on the market - if you like yellow light.  And if you're trying to light the inside of a sphere, which you might if you're growing pot.  Reflectors suck. If you really want a cone of light (and most people do), LEDs win big, because they inherently emit a cone of light.  They are far more lumen-efficient inside that cone, and weak reflectors don't help enough.

Of course, if arranged like a "corn cob", the advantage is utterly lost.  SMH... Those are for people in a hurry looking for a screw-in replacement that uses their same reflectors and lensing.  But wait.  Why keep the old fixtures?  Do you really want to keep the old ballast?  No, it wastes energy and is a maintenance item.  You want to direct-wire existing line voltage to the LED device. Do you honestly foresee rolling back to actual HID lighting?  Never gonna happen.  Throw the fixture in the attic, get a modern LED fixture for 1/3 the cost - and don't look back.

Standard practice is replacing a 400W HID with a 6-tube F32T8 fixture. 4' LED replacement tubes are a commodity item, and prices are in free-fall -- $8 last I checked for a top brand. $48 and you have a HID light's worth of LED light.  Hit up Craigslist for a used fluorescent fixture, yank the ballast and rewire direct - you're in business. Given how cheap LEDs have gotten I wonder why anyone would fool around with HID lighting anymore.

Real fluorescents are even cheaper if you get eBay ballasts, and the superb tubes now available.


Can I install laminate next to tile without using T-moulding?

Manufacturers require expansion around the entire perimeter of your floating floor. Depends on whether or not you want to maintain your warranty. If you don't care, fly at er. You may or may not end up with issues. Depending on the height of the tile, I like to use an Edge Mold which butts up to the tile instead of overlapping it. It still overlaps the laminate, offering a warranty approved solution. Last week I had to deny a warranty claim by a builder who butted all his floating engineered hardwood tight to tile. The flooring started to squeak a couple months after completion. Badly.  Sorry "builder". He was out a substantial sum. Your 10x11 room may survive unscathed.


What is the typical vertical angle field of view for a PIR motion sensing light switch?

While it varies by the sensor, we can look at a good representative unit to get an idea

You are right that different sensors will be somewhat different with regard to their view angles, both in the horizontal and vertical planes.  A good sensor should provide numbers, or better yet, a diagram that specifies their viewing area in both axes though; this should either be given in a specification sheet/document, or provided by some sort of applications literature.  (There is a specification in NEMA WD-7 that governs this, and commercial-grade sensors such as a Lutron Maestro or a Legrand Wattstopper will comply with it, but there's no telling when it comes to random stuff on big-box shelves...)

For example, the diagram below, reproduced from page 59 of the Lutron Occupancy/Vacancy Sensor Design and Application Guide, provides an application-level specification for both horizontal and vertical sensor coverage for the Maestro PIR sensors at a given sensor installation height, provided the sensor has an unobstructed line of sight to the motion source.


How can I determine the size of a hanging toilet mechanism?

You also need to be sure your water pressure is adequate (as in high psi). A wall mounted toilet doesn't use a reservoir, but relies on high water pressure for complete flushes.


I think in this case, I'd go with a direct burial armored fiber optic cable in the same trench, rather than running it in the conduit with the power.  Here is my reasoning.

The all dielectric cable you can run in the same conduit with the power is not rodent resistant.  I would be concerned about rodent damage in your pulling points.  I think an armored fiber buried in the same trench will be safer.

It will be much, much easier to install - almost foolproof.  No pulling the delicate preterminated ends through the conduit.  Put the spool on a pipe and have two people walk it down the trench and it will be laid about as fast as you can walk 1200 feet.

The only problem is if the direct burial fiber ever gets damaged, it will be very expensive to locate and repair the fault;  but realistically, in that event, you can just install an all dielectric fiber in the power conduit and abandon the damaged cable in the ground.

That is one reason to oversize the conduit a bit.  Don't try to go real close to the conduit fill limit.  That's a terrible way to save a few bucks.  Other reasons to oversize the conduit - easier pulling and leaves you with the option to install bigger wire later, just in case.

Consider using the big sweeps for your 90° bends.  Large diameter pre-made PVC 90's are readily available.

I'd try to keep the 90°'s to a minimum - go for straight pulls from handhole to handhole.  The telecom standards want you to avoid making bends in boxes, they recommend a straight through pull.  I think that guideline (it's not a code requirement) makes sense for workstation runs in EMT in buildings, I don't think it makes sense with a long underground run like this.

For the power - its probably not worth worrying about in this case, but don't rule out aluminum.  Aluminum is lighter, so it creates less friction in the pipe and pulls easier.  It might save money.  Since you'll probably be terminating in disconnects at both ends, terminating is not an issue.  Your splices in the handholes will be easier with copper, since wet location wire nuts are readily available.

In the comments, @Harper recommends limiting the distance between pulling points to 240' or 490' to stay closer to what's on a spool of wire.  I'd go a little closer if possible - say 220' - because the longest fish tape I have is 240'.  At least it was 240' when it was new, it has lost a few feet.  This may or may not ever matter,  just another thing to weigh in your planning.

I always include a pull string when I pull wire.  With PVC, I do not use inexpensive polypropylene string for pull strings, it is too likely to burn through a 90.  I use mule tape, which is flat nylon, or scrap wire or cable.  It's mainly there as a last resort - I'd rather use a fish tape - but it's easy enough to pull one in and better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

The three most important things when pulling wire:  LUBE, LUBE, LUBE.  Maybe you like the yellow waxy stuff (it freezes in the winter) maybe you like the blue goo like I do, maybe you prefer the new less-mess clear stuff, but whatever you do, lube.  Lube more than you think you need.  Way more.


Deck screws undetectable and boards are rotting

The deck screws are most assuredly made of steel which has iron in it. It should be very easy to find the screw locations using a magnet.

I have used these inexpensive type of magnetic nail/screw locators on walls and ceilings. I suspect they would work well on your deck as well.

(Picture Source: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Stud-Finder/dp/B0000BYD3K)


How to open ceiling light cover to replace bulb

Looks like ones I have that are springs/clips holding it.  Does it turn when you turned it?

If so, you might just have to shift it over a bit, and pull down carefully.

ps. I'm trying to find an example with images of how they fasten online.


How can I install 3 way switches that cut power to several 2 way switches?

The Setup
To achieve what you want, you'll simply have to wire all the light circuits in parallel off the common of the 3-way.  Basically instead of a light on the common, you'll have light circuits.  Something like this.

Following this scheme, each single pole switch will control the lights in a single area. While the whole circuit, is controlled by the 3-way switches. This way, if the 3-ways are OFF all the lights will be off.  If the 3-ways are ON, the individual single pole switches will determine which lights are on.
The down side
While this configuration is possible, it may be confusing to any future owners of the home. This may also cause problems if the area is ever finished and actually divided into separate spaces, since a somebody could potentially be lost in the dark.
Code compliance
I'm not sure at this point whether or not this setup is code compliant, but a quick call to your local government should yield the answer.  I will continue to review the National Electrical Code (NEC), to determine if there are any sections that would not allow a setup like this. If I find any restrictions, I will update this section of the answer.
If any others happen to know any codes that might apply here, please post the code section as a comment.


There must have been some wire splices in the junction boxes of the upstairs lights that were disturbed when you installed the new fixture.  Take the last fixture down (the one installed before the downstairs lights failed) and look at the other wire connections.  If there is a bundle of wires (or two bundles), take off the wire nuts and make sure everything is tight and twist on a new wire nut.  Of course, all the power should be off when you do this as you will be in contact with multiple wires.

If you don't find any bundles, take down the next fixture you installed and check that junction box.  Home electric fixtures are never wired in series, so one fixture working shouldn't depend on another being installed.


How to stop water running down shower tube and under the bath

Thank you for the pictures, that was very helpful. While I wouldn't want to restrict the hose retraction, I don't think there's any other option than to do so. Your situation is worse than I expected & you are stuck with a very poorly planned installation.

But, I think you could go any of 3-ways as still keep your tub wash-down capabilities, as pictured below:

1 - Is to minimally re-plumb with a new hose to a proper tub mount, a short connecting hose below the tub & a longer hose above. (below are the best match I found.) Presuming you have access from the other side of the wall or could install an access panel there for future servicing of the tub.

2 - Is to cover & seal the existing tub mount with an escutcheon & grommet, the grommet's slit would seat inside the escutcheon's hole shoulder. The hose could pull out further, but not retract down to the tub. You'll want an escutcheon that's only slightly larger than the tub mount's diameter.

3 - Is to cover & seal the tub mount a little sloppily with a Hinged Flange & O-ring on top. This is the most flexible as you could easily remove the Hinged Flange & the O-ring would slip through the tub mount's port.


No wire cutting

First, don't cut wires in a situation like this.  You never want to do that unless you are trimming the length of new cable you just installed, and that won't happen soon for you.   Take the nipper back to the store.  I'm aware some Youtube videos promote cutting wires, but they tend to be tool-happy because they make money when you buy tools.  Wire length is precious - it can't be added back on.  Remove wires by loosening the screw on the recep (even if it's back-wire), and/or twisting the wire out of a backstab connection.  Note that once a wire is pulled out of a backstab, its spring is damaged and the backstab cannot be reused.  But never use backstabs anyway, as they are unreliable.

Do you even need a GFCI?

It's rather unlikely that a GFCI receptacle is protecting this outlet.  Trip any GFCI receps you already have and see if this outlet loses power, but I'd expect not.

However, there's a fair chance this recep is being fed from a GFCI Breaker.  If so, that breaker will have a "Test" button.

Either way, if pushing "Test" on a GFCI breaker or recep causes this recep to lose power, your work is done.

Safety is serious business

I am kinda getting the impression you were intending to do this with the power switched on. Honestly that makes me think this is less of a daredevil act and more an unawareness of just how dangerous electrical power is. You may have had stories or experience of people who got zapped and got lucky - that does happen a lot - but people win Russian Roulette 5/6 of the time, so "usually" is not a reliable indicator of safety.  Further, you are almost certainly dealing with 240V here, which is way more than you bargained for.

We gotta look at the breakers.

Expect a situation where 2 breakers control this receptacle's power. The breakers may be tied to trip together, or they may be independent.  But they must be identified.  You already have a good grasp that they are separate, and how to test for that, so put this to use to identify the up-to-2 breakers that control this.

Now, I suspect you have a multi-wire branch circuit, where two carefully placed hot wires share 1 neutral.  "Carefully placed" means there is 240V between them, which is not to trifle with.  However, "carelessly placed" means your neutral wire is a ticking time bomb about to overload. There are further safety requirements to protect people who are less aware than you, and we need to attend to those also, so identifying the breakers is essential.

If there are two separate, independently thrown breakers, then please cut up a Post-It note to make flags, and stick them on the relevant breakers and shoot us a shot of the 6-7 breakers in either direction, and edit it into your question.  We can then advise on correcting the safety issues with the breaker.  If you follow the "GFCI breaker" advice below, that will moot this.

The simple way: Choose a side

The simplest way to hook this GFCI recep up is to simply pick either the red or back wire, and cap it off.  Usually we straighten out the wire, and cap it off with a "wire nut" - with the wire nut then taped down so it stays put, as wire nuts won't stay on single wires.   (you should never need tape with 2+ wires or you're doing it wrong).

Then, hook the neutral and the remaining hot wire to the new GFCI device.

This has a disadvantage: you can no longer run two high-power appliances, one in each socket. Now that will trip the breaker.  It has another disadvantage that if you have 5 of these to do on this circuit, a GFCI breaker is cheaper and better protection.

A better option: A GFCI breaker

Presuming the above testing identifies two breakers (possibly tied), those 2 will have a red and a black "hot" wire going to them.  They can be brought (along with the neutral that is also in their cable) to a 2-pole GFCI circuit breaker.  This will GFCI protect every outlet and device supplied by those breakers.

However this also depends on identifying those breakers, having a panel capable of taking a modern GFCI breaker and having room, and the circuit not having any existing faults that would trip a GFCI, like neutral shared with third circuits etc.


Wire nut use safety/legality with dangling cord?

The weight of the fixture is not allowed to be applied to the electrical cable no matter what, so how it is connected is irrelevant so long as it is legal, and wire nuts are legal. "What if" scenarios are too numerous to be practical in covering them all. But if the fixture IS hanging only by the wirenutted electrical connections (no chain or steel cable to bear the weight), then yes, that would be illegal.
That said, I'm having a hard time envisioning the setup you describe; work lights on the ground powered from a ceiling mounted light fixture? There are no wall receptacles anywhere? THAT (no wall receptacles in a room) is more likely a violation in and of itself. If this is all just temporary power during construction, most inspectors are fairly lenient that way, but if it's something permanent, it sounds like a serious problem for reasons having nothing to do with wire nuts.


Why are most of my cable/coax wires disconnected?

Because you only hook up what you have to, to avoid signal loss. If you're serious about getting HD to all your jacks, you should probably look into getting a powered splitter.

Otherwise, you just want a small passive splitter in a good MHz range. Over 2k was bare minimum last time I checked.

I have internet cable and I want it as clean as possible, so I use a good two-way splitter to feed the modem and then it feeds another one I had laying around for the giant jumble of TV feeds.

You probably have one or two incomings at most. Unless someone wired your house up for something strange, this is no different than many people's basements I've seen. Where there is either no equipment yet, or it's just like 4 out of the 16 cables run into a passive splitter (cause those things are cheap and cable guys charge ~$5 a termination on the cable ends, so frankly I'm surprised yours all are. Welcome to your new house? ;).

If you move out, you might take your expensive 12-way splitter with you. If it's a new construction house, that's why there's nothing there yet.


Determining minimum dimensions for circular driveway

Architects and traffic engineers have used “Architectural Graphic Standards” by Ramsey and Sleeper since 1932. It’s been updated every 4-5 years by The American Institute of Architects and John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

They recommend a minimum INSIDE radius of 12’ for sports car, 15’ for sedan, 19’ for SUV’s and Cadillacs and 22’ for pickup trucks with small boat trailers (boat=16’ or less).

They recommend a minimum OUTSIDE radius of 22’ for sedans, 29’ for SUVs and Cadillacs and 41’ for pickup trucks with small boat trailers.

We do not provide a curb between the driveway and walkway on the outside radius for “extra” cushion.


What are these wooden glass dividers called (cabiner window dividers)?

That part of the window is known as the "muntin", so these would be "curved muntins" - although I couldn't find much about them.  From the pictures you posted, it appears to be some kind of thin plywood, with the outer layers oriented perpendicular to the window surface to better bend.  Veneer is definitely also an option, and probably the simplest way to get wood that thin.  Most of the structure holding the glass just comes from the glazing.
If you do use veneer, try to orient the pieces so that the grain helps you bend them, don't try to bend against the grain.  Some steam, or ironing them between damp cloths might help.


It's normal. Your "out pipe" and his share a connection. As the water rushes past your connection, suction is created, and a little water goes "out" your toilet. I would get one of those "refresh" kits that replace the flapper, just to be sure and call it done.


Take a look at a system called TED (The Energy Detective), it can be used to monitor the whole house or individual circuits, or both and gives you a simple interface either stand-alone or to your smart phone or tablet.


You'll likely also have to increase the size of the conductors feeding the panel, which means pulling new cable/wires.  But nobody can say for sure, without knowing what's there now.

You may have to upgrade the panel, but again it depends on what's there now.


Self-adhesive tiles bond well if the surface is prepared well. If you can strip it chemically and apply a bonding primer you shouldn't have problems.

To install vinyl sheet over vinyl you should usually level the existing embossing using, get this, an embossing leveler. You simply trowel it onto/into the texture of the old floor to make it flat. This technique does depend on both the old and new flooring products being appropriate for that use.

What I'd do depends on how long I expect to be there. Chances are I'd find some nice rugs that I could take with me when I go.


Can I use 8x16 tiles on shower walls that measure 39.5" by 35.5" by 39.5"?

The usual approach is to cut them so that the offcuts are not so small - and NOT to try to keep an "uncut edge" anywhere.

So, you'd basically plan to burn 48" of tile on each wall, though you should be able to re-use some of the offcuts around the corner. No getting around the 1.75" ones on the back wall unless you want to get cute and put a 3.5" slice in the middle of two 8x16's to make the width. Whether that looks good to you or not is your call - if it does, consider the same approach on the side walls. Something like:

xxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxx

and then on the longer sidewalls:

xxxxxxxx|xxxx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xxxx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xxxx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xxxx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxxx
xxxxxxxx|xxxx|xxxxxxxx
xxxxxx|xxxxxxxx|xxxxxx

Look OK is, of course, a highly variable and personal criteria. In your shoes I'd probably find that I could live with another wall tile, but I'm not you and you're not me.


How can I reposition a soldered copper 90-degree fitting

You can indeed desolder fittings. However, as BMitch points out, you'll have to remove the fitting, clean it, and solder it in again.

If you heat the solder up enough, the fitting should slip right off.  If it doesn't come off easily, it's not hot enough. Try to spread the heat around, so you heat the joint evenly.

You'll want to use a pair of pliers, to remove the hot fitting. Do not touch it with your hand.


Can I use Eneloop batteries in my thermostat?

Eneloop batteries are NiMH which has a normal voltage of 1.2V vs. 1.5V for an alkaline batteries. Your thermostat uses two batteries so the Eneloops will generate 2.4V instead of 3V for fresh alkalines. At a worst case, the thermostat will not work (or report low batteries with fully charged batteries). Best case, the batteries will last for a short time.

As for specifying brand name alkalines, it's probably a partnership as @ratchetfreak suggested. They may also be trying to avoid customer dissatisfaction when cheap, off-brand batteries work poorly or last for a short time.


It's very likely to be a proprietary connector. Even if it conforms to a standard size like DIN (as @Trout suggests), that doesn't really tell you anything about the electrical requirements. The part your missing may have a transformer, a dimmer, or allowed ganging of several lights together.

Unless you find more markings on the bulb or cable, I would not assume anything about the lamp — could be DC or AC, could be 220V, 110V, or low voltage.

(You don't say what country you live in or whether the lamp is likely to be foreign. There are several countries that use plugs with 3 round pins in approximately the configuration of your plug, but yours looks smaller. It's a little hard to tell scale from that photo... any chance of pin-to pin-measurements?)


How do I remove wet latex paint from carpet?

You will be OK, it's only latex paint and you have time on your side.

Use a dry paper towel to suck up any wet paint.
Pour a bit of water on the dry paint to reactivate it.
Use a dry towel to dab the paint spot unit it goes away.

If the paint has been there awhile and has started to setup or if dabbing isn't doing the trick, you will have to scrub it. You can try warm water and a mild dish soap too.

Warning: Some people may advise rubbing alcohol or other solvents, be careful as these may strip the color or even melt the carpet depending on what your product is.

Still no luck? Try a professional carpet cleaner machine; the hot water and brushes will help scrape the paint out.

Edit: found a nice video for you.


If you want to keep a natural/varnished finish, you'll probably need to replace the rotten sash. Which is also the correct solution to a rotten sash, really.

You can try bleaching the repaired area, but I doubt it will work for the level of "work" required to look good as a plain/varnished item.

As such, either paint both upper and lower sash some solid color (or just the whole lower sash could work, if wood above/paint below suits, and that leaves the option of going back to a full natural/varnished look when you do replace the lower sash) or replace the rotten sash with new wood. You'll also need to address the reason the sash rotted in the first place.


In the original paint job; was the paint thinned before use ?

Did you use a roller or a brush to touch up ?

Sometimes paint settles to the bottom of the can:
How old is the can of the existing paint ?

If the can of paint has been sitting - your paint pigments are stuck and coagulated on the bottom and you will need to mix them in. If you have had it for more than 2 years you are better off doing a paint match.

What you can do is take a piece of paint (a chip) from under an electrical outlet cover to get a match.

Your lid might have a label with the mix parameters printed on it along with a color sample as well. The mix parameters are the best and the match is the next best thing.

You might be able to repaint over the surface depending on how much darker the paint is. Also remember if the room gets plenty of sun light - the paint can fade and that might be what has really occurred.


running sprinkler wire and power in same conduit?

From an NEC standpoint, the main deciding factor about running different voltages in the same conduit is that the conductor insulation must have the same voltage rating on all wiring. Standard residential insulation is 600V so the control wiring must have the same rating. Low voltage wiring usually are rated at 300V. So needless to say this would not be allowed.

Keep in mind I am not saying this is a good installation. There are many other reason why I would not like your installation. I am just saying it could be done if it made the above requirements.

Good luck


How do I install recessed lights in a metal framed ceiling?

Since the ceiling is up already just use standard "old-work" recessed cans. You don't even need "IC" cans since there is no insulation.


Can I put 2 air conditioners in one line with 2 breakers?

Ummm, no, you cannot do this and there is no purpose it in anyway.  I'm going to guess that you have a dedicated 30A circuit for your 120V A/C unit.  That means that there is no more than 30A available on this circuit and the installed A/C needs that amount.

If you try to add another A/C on the same circuit (all code concerns aside) you will still only have the 30A available and there will not be enough available to power the 2nd unit.  So anytime both are operating the breaker will open.

What you need is a NEW 30A line from another 30A breaker in your box.  You mentioned that your box is full and that's a problem.

I suggest here that you need the services of a qualified electrician to see if the current box can be reorganized to free up some space for another circuit.  Otherwise the solution is likely to include upgrading your box to a new one that has more room.


Re-purpose old water heater vent for bathroom exhaust fans

I would use the old gas vent with the existing exhaust fans without concern. The only issue I could see if one fan was on pressurizing the duct the second one might have trouble opening its back draft damper because of the pressure (both fans should have back draft dampers). I would check to verify that both will open when the other is running. If anything I would think a smaller fan would be needed to reduce the back pressure, but make sure it works and use it if it works.


How can I protect my slate floor from essential oils?

If the cheap sealant was water based then you can top that with another water based sealant, but I don't think that would solve the problem. The essential oils are eating away the water based coating. You will need to chemically strip the old coating then coat with a penetrating sealant that says it protects against oils.

In general, putting a solvent-based sealer on top of a water-based sealer is a bad idea. The solvents can eat or soften the existing water-based sealer, destroying both coatings. Think of it along the lines of oil and water; they do not mix.
If you do want to switch to a solvent-based sealer, you will need to chemically strip off the existing water-based sealer before applying the solvent-based product.
Source


Why can I not turn off my ceiling lights?

One of the switches has failed and will likely need to be replaced. There will be two "three way" switches and one "four-way" switch. It's the four-way that has broken. The switch may feel different when you toggle it.

Unscrew the bulbs until you get it fixed.


Trying to determine appropriate beam size for a header on a large sliding glass door

I’m not sure I completely understand the layout, but you can tell me where I’m wrong.
There is no floor load resting on this wall/beam.
The roof load has a span of 20’, so 10’ rests on the wall/ beam and the other 10’ rests on another wall. So, depending on where you’re located, normal snow loads range from 25 lbs. per square foot (psf) to 35 psf. I’ll use 35 psf.
Therefore, the roof load is 10’ x 35 psf = 350 per linear foot (plf).
Plus the roof load from the patio roof is 16’ / 2 x 35 psf = 280 plf.
The wall load on the new beam will be about 10’ high (2 storey minus the 9’ sliding door height). Most walls weigh about 10 psf to 15 psf. I’ll use 15 psf. Therefore, the wall load on the new beam is 10’ x 15 psf = 150 plf.
So the total load on the beam is
350 plf + 280 plf + 150 plf = 780 plf.
So, depending on the species and grade of lumber, a 6x14 beam can span 15’ and carry 780 plf.
I used SPF lumber with a “Select” grade. I noticed you were hoping to use 2- 2x12’s, so I presume you are working in a 2x4 wall. If you want to use 2x12’s, I’d use 5-2x12’s to span 15’ and support 780 plf.


Diagnosing connected circuits; dangerous?

Because you are doing something you should not be doing: You are interrupting the neutral wire for the other half of the MWBC.
A Multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC) is 2 hot wires on opposite phases that share a neutral. As long as they are on opposite phases, the neutral wire carries only differential current.
On a MWBC, you are not allowed to route the neutral through a device.  So for instance you should have found neutral pigtailed to the existing receptacle.  You may have thought "well that's silly, GFCIs can take 2 wires on their LINE screws using screw-and-clamp... why don't we just eliminate that completely irrelvant pigtail?"  ZAP... that's why.
Neutral must remain intact even if a device is removed, e.g. if you need to change a receptacle.
Note that if an MWBC's shared neutral continues onward from any particular box, you will not be using the "Load" terminals on any GFCI receptacle you install there.  If your GFCI is monitoring L1-neutral to assure flows are equal, then any current flow on L2-neutral will cause neutral to be unequal.
There are only 2 ways to GFCI-protect a MWBC:

A 2-pole (3-wire) GFCI, which are only made as GFCI breakers.
Individual GFCI recep at every outlet where neutral is shared. "Load" is not used.


It should be replaced.
Electrically it will work but mechanically the sharp edges exposed by the burnt off plastic insulation could damage the new socket. Also the missing insulation makes it less safe.


What is the risk of using tandem breakers in a panel that doesn't allow them?

The problem isn't what you think it is
As you have noticed, your panel is not Circuit Total Limiting (CTL) as Square-D has dropped support for CTL from the QO product line.  This was done in response to a 2008 NEC (and corresponding UL 67) change that permits panels capable of providing more than 42 circuits.  However, unlike Homeline panels which, save for a couple of oddball models, support being fully double-stuffed, QO panels still state a limit on the number of double-stuff (tandem) breakers you can install in them, despite no longer using the CTL QO tandem breakers (QOTxxxx).  (They use the old, non-CTL QOxxxx tandem breakers instead.)
This limitation still remains because while your panel can accept 54 breakers, it doesn't have the neutral terminals to support landing 108 circuits.  According to the Square-D drawing for your panel, your panel was designed to accept 18 tandem breakers for a maximum of 72 circuits; however, according to the photo you posted in chat and I'm reposting below, you only have 55 neutral terminations available.  While this number can be increased using QONK neutral kits, those aren't compatible with "long body" breakers (xFCI, SPD), which limits where in the panel they can go.
As to positioning, that's not too hard to fix.  I'd start by swapping the handle-tied pair of doublestuff QO breakers in spaces 17 & 19 with the two-pole 20A breaker in spaces 47 & 49, which takes care of the right side of your (inverted) panel.  As to the left side, I would remove the SPD from 38 and 40, then take the double-stuffs out of 6 and 22 and the AFCI out of 8.  The AFCI then goes in space 22, the SPD in spaces 6 & 8, and the tandems we removed are reinstalled in spaces 38 & 40.  However, due to the lack of CTL support in this panel, and the fact you haven't exceeded the circuit count the panel supports by any stretch of the imagination, I would rank this as a "nice to fix" problem since you don't have the normal risks of neutral terminal shortages and damaged stabs to concern yourself with.  (QO CTL worked through a cam that engaged in a slot in the outer backpan mounting rail, so it never had problems with oafs damaging stabs to begin with, even.)


Modify dishwasher water inlet valve or harness

I would remove the existing plug off the old one and fit it to the new one so it assembles correctly.

You should be able to identify which wire is where when comparing the old and new.

Edit update:
Remove the male plug on the harness.
Extend wires as necessary.
Purchase two crimp-on (insulated) terminals that fit the new pump, fit and test.


This really depends on the degree to which the bed posts are out of level, the floor type you are using and the diameter of the post contact on the ground.

It sounds like you are going wood posts, what I would do there is to get a few Cork or rubber Adhesive floor protectors (like below)

The problem there, is that you need to find material which is slightly thicker than your gaps, since you cannot really add these things together too much (since they will be easy to fall off) - You can also attempt to slit them with a long stanley blade. these strips will needed to be applied to the underside of each bed post.


How can I remove a shower faucet with no set screw?

Problem solved. There is no set screw. I just needed a little more force to wiggle it off.


Using an 18.3 AMP appliance over 14 gauge wiring

No. No no no no no.

The sole purpose of the breaker is to protect the wiring from overheating. It's not just there to be a buzzkill. If you use a breaker that is too high for the wire you will lose that protection and there is a very real possibility of overheating and starting a fire.

An 18.3 amp device needs to be on a 20 amp circuit, meaning the receptacle, wiring, and breaker all need to be rated for 20 amps. (That would mean 12 gauge wire or bigger.) By the way, is your sauna really 120V? I thought most of them were 240V, which of course is a whole new thing.


what you might consider doing rather than searching for a mysterious leak is to install a raised floor on top of the concrete. This is simply a frame work of treated lumber fabricated on the concrete. To solve the moisture issue a sheet of plastic is installed between the treated lumber and the old concrete floor. If you are installing a sheet floor covering you will need to cover the treated lumber with tongue and grooved plywood. This suggestion will only work if moisture is minimal. If you have standing water the source of the leak must be found and repaired. This solution is for a floor that is damp, but not wet.


How are mini drill bits mounted on a regular sized drill?

One option that you have is to use a mini-drill chuck adapter or mini-drill chuck. I used the latter term in a search and the auto-fill in The Google added adapter, but the results were the same:

This image came from The Home Depot and will accept from 0.00 inches to 0.039 inches (1 mm) according to the specifications. You would find other mini-drill chucks with larger capacity.

I dislike the four-jaw configuration, but it's less expensive than a three-jaw chuck. It's easy to get a tiny drill bit misaligned when securing it in a four-jaw design.

My initial search appeared at first to return only four-jaw designs, but I was able to locate a three-jaw eventually:

It has a price similar to the Home Depot version, but appears to be an online resource known as iOffer.


What methods can I use to remove exterior paint from brick?

This all depends on how long the paint has been on the house and what kind of shape it's in.  Because brick is a porous material paint adheres very well to it.  I think your first step would be going to the local paint store and rent a power-washer.  A gas powered power-washer.  You are going to need as much psi as possible (at least 3000+) with a pin-hole revolving tip. This will blast away any paint that is loose on the brick.

This should be less damaging to the brick and mortar than sand blasting.

Depending on how successful this was in removing paint dictates your next steps, if most of the paint is gone, then maybe just a wire brush and some paint remover will get the job done.  If you've power-washed your whole house and it is still covered in paint, then I would call a contractor and get quotes.


Running a 50amp 240V line 300 feet to a shed

First, forget 3%
That's just the wire size calculators trying to upsell you on wire.  Notice they also default to copper :)
3% isn't that important.  And NEC even says so; it's an informational note that advises 3% is an ideal to design toward if money is no object. What NEC admonishes is try to avoid more than 8% cumulatively on all segments from the meter to the final load, but even that is situational to what the load actually is.
If you want to keep the load a secret, by all means, we'll cheerfully "spend your money" lol.  But it's probably unnecessary.
Even then, the calcs lie.  They make it sound like if your breaker is 50A, you need to calculate for 50A voltage drop.  Heck no! If your breaker is 50A, the maximum current you're even allowed to plan for is 80% of that, or 40A.  Indeed in Canada, where they require "nanny breakers" to keep your voltage drop below 3%, they only require that based on a) actual load or if not known, b) 80%.  Calculating 3% on breaker trip is just throwing away money.
And by the way, there's a pattern where people who a) do that and b) also use copper wire without even thinking about aluminum, also c) buy too small a subpanel, and run out of spaces later.  Thrift in all the wrong places.  Definitely get a huge panel with lots of spaces, and if that means the "main breaker" or busing is much larger than your feed, that doesn't matter.
Cable OR conduit.  Make up your mind :)
If you're going to direct-bury cable, do that. (24" burial depth).  Otherwise if you're going to use conduit, do that.
But in conduit, you use individual wires - not a cable.  Not least, this makes it much easier to pull the wires through, since the individual wires are quite flexible.
It's "legal" to put cable in conduit, but the conduit must be larger for the same current, for a couple reasons: First, most cables are only rated for 60C temperature, so you need larger cable; and second, the cable sheath adds a great deal of bulk - the conduit inside diameter must be 138% of the widest part of the cable.
The two calculations you must do
First, you must determine the absolute minimum wire size, even if the cable were only 1 foot long.  You either

start with your actual load and multiply by 125%, so for instance if you have a 39A hot tub, you must multiply by 125% to get 48.75A, which rounds up to 50A.  Or
you follow the provisioning rules - for instance an RV stand of 20/30/50A requires 50A provisioned.  You don't need to multiply that by 125%.

Armed with that number, you find the minimum cable size that exceeds it in Table 310.15(B)(16).  Noting that most cable puts you in the 60C column, and wires-in-conduit (because of their THHN or XHHW insulation) let you use the 75C column.  (literally they let you go 90C, but, the terminations at both ends are only rated 75C, so you are capped at 75C.
So your 50A load requires either

Most cables: 6 AWG copper (55A @ 60C) or 4 AWG aluminum (55A)
THHN/XHHW wires in conduit (and certain cables): 8 AWG copper (50A @ 75C) or 6 AWG aluminum (ditto).

That is our first number, the absolute minimum size we can use.

Your second number is based on voltage drop.  And this is where we "play" a bit.  Remember a 50A breaker (like an RV) you only have to factor for your actual loads, or 40A at most.   So let's see:
XHHW in conduit, 6 AWG aluminum (no bump):
Let's punch in 8% drop, 300', aluminum... well, it's saying that will give us 7.15% drop at  40A.  How often will our RV actually pull 40A? That's worth investigating.
XHHW in conduit, #4 aluminum:
So let's reduce our allowed voltage drop to 7% which will force it to bump us a wire size. That gives us #4 aluminum:  OK, at 40A, we get 4.57% drop.  That's acceptable in anyone's book.  (who isn't in Canada).

But here's something Canadians can't do: Look back at 310.15(B)(16) for that #4 XHHW aluminum (75C): It says 65A.  We can use a 65A breaker because our country doesn't require "nanny breakers" lol! (since 65A breakers aren't made,  you round up to 70A).

Now if you're going to a 50A receptacle, you must stay at 50A because the receptacle amps must match the breaker amps.  However, if you're doing an RV stand, I suggest using an "RV stand subpanel" which gives you a 14-50 for large RVs, a TT30 for small RVs, and a 120V/20A GFCI for incidental loads.  Since that is a subpanel, you can breaker the XHHW  #4AL feeder to 70A.
XHHW in conduit, #2 aluminum:
Now this calculates straight to 2.93% at 40 amps.  Crack a Molson and have some Tim Hortons donuts, eh... because that's considered "not a gongshow" even in Canada!  Since 40A is 80% of our 50A breaker trip.
In Canada you must nanny-breaker that for 50A.  In the US you can breaker it as high as 90A, it's up to you.


What is this type of lead called and how do I wire to it correctly?

Making connections

You can use heatshrink tubing to insulate the connection and prevent the wires shorting together.

Slide a section on, out of the way, before attaching the wire, solder the wire, slide the tube over the exposed wire and heat it to shrink it.

Which connections

You don't say what this "button" is for. I don't know of a function for a push-button operating a switch with five terminals.

You can usually use the continuity function of a multimeter to work out which terminals are connected to which before, whilst and after pressing the button. From this you can work out  how to wire up the connections to whatever it controls.


What is this terminal called in my service panel?

That is a terminal or lug.  It's not likely rated for multiple conductors.  What you probably want is a grounding bar.


220v 30amp circuit, tool needs 220v 20amp service

The short answer is yes.  The basic parameters are acceptable.  However, a load like this is not like plugging in a table lamp.  The power supply for this saw must meet a number of safety and professional standards; wire size, breaker size, wire terminations, length of run, among them.  And, you can shorten the life of the saw motor if you neglect even one.


Why is every second breaker out in my panel?

Multiple possibilities.

If you have aluminum feeder wire, check the clamp to that wire AND that anti-oxidation compound was used.  As the load varies, the joint heats up and cools down.  Aluminum expands and contracts more than the other metals, so the wire will squish down and work its way loose!  This happened at our old place.  The panel got hot and I saw arcing at the clamp.  Remember that the wire is electrically hot!

If you have a loose connection to a breaker, that could heat up the bus.

Copper or aluminum bus bars in the panel?  Aluminum oxide is non-conductive, a high-resistance connection can develop.

Feeder wires can be damaged in the ground, including long after the insulation is nicked.


Wiring for a mini-split ductless AC system

It all depends on the model. Most are 240v, and the wiring connection is made through the outdoor unit.

If you're going with a multi-split setup (one condenser feeding multiple indoor heads), then you just need a single 240v connection with a disconnect near the anticipated future location of the condenser.

If you're giving each head its own condenser, you'll need many such electrical connections: one per condenser. Those'll take up a lot of room on your electrical panel; make sure it's big enough.

With this kind of cadillac equipment, make sure you're getting the absolute highest efficiency possible. The best units go up to 33 SEER and 14 HSPF. You're already going to be paying $3-4,000 per head; any upcharge to get maximum efficiency is always worth it. Don't  compromise here.

Finally, be absolutely sure you select a reputable contractor who can demonstrate that they have installed hundreds of systems just like the one you're asking for. Also be sure they give you an ironclad warranty and a performance guarantee. The reason why I mention these things is that mini-split systems are pretty unfamiliar to most American contractors, most of whom only know how gas furnaces and conventional AC systems. You really need to make sure that your contractor knows what they're doing with this equipment or else you will be disappointed--guaranteed.


New switch appears to work, but seems to show voltage running through switch buttons, is this normal?

Well you can have phantom voltage but since you did not mention the measurement method I would say this is normal!
The lights work but sometimes a live wire is detected on a neutral or even a ground. This is called phantom voltage and can be found in almost every installation.


Pouring slab but second story sags in old home

You need to slow down and rethink this. You are on the verge of making a couple of serious mistakes. Rather than directly answer your question, I am going to advise a plan to do this correctly.

First, you should not pour concrete around wood support posts. This is a good way to invite rot and an unstable support system.  The floors should be jacked up a bit (1/2 to 1 inch), footings poured before you pour a slab. Trim the posts or replace with steel and set them on the footings. If you keep the wood, they should be set on top of the slab/footing, not in it.

You should determine the root cause for the second floor sagging. Determine if the posts in the basement are part of the problem or if the cause is higher in the building.  You didn't accurately describe how and where the sagging is taking place, so impossible to even start describing what can be done to correct it.

The fact that you are even thinking of encasing the posts leads me to believe you should seek some local expertise to advise you. Don't compound your problems. Get some competent eyes on your project before proceeding.


Would towels under floorboards (for sound proofing) be a fire risk?

There are two kinds of sound problems: 1) airborne sound, and 2) impact sound.

Airborne sound is talking, music, etc. If you’re trying to stop this kind of sound, then yes, additional material that absorbs sound will help.
Impact sound is sound that is generated by footsteps, tapping on floor, etc. This kind of sound travels through the flooring material and reverberates into the space below. Towels will not interrupt this transmission. Rather, one surface needs to be isolated from another to stop the transmission. That is to say, the upper flooring and structural components need to be isolated from the lower ceiling and its structural components.

Towels are not the best material to solve either sound problem. In addition, cloth towels have a very high rating for products of combustion and contribution of smoke.

Every material is rated for fire and smoke. Cloth is rated very high for both. However, in single family residences it is not prohibited.


How to install pre finished hardwood over existing softwood floor

Laying the new floor perpendicular to the old floor will eliminate any cupping issues. Low areas can be filled with self leveling compound. I like to use a pad between flooring if a floating floor the pad gives a better feel , helps isolate small divots and is warmer due to the pads insulation value.
With all that said renting a big drum sander and refinishing is less expensive and about the same amount of work as a new floor in my opinion.
Before going forward I would watch some videos of floor refinishing and how you can make a horrible floor look better than just about any new flooring for 1/3 the price.


HansGrohe lacuna faucet low water pressure

The Lacuna (and possibly other faucets) has a backflow check valve assembly in the hose.  There is a lacuna_maintenance pdf from hansgrohe that shows how to clean it.  No tools needed, other than maybe a small brush for cleaning.  Details not in the maintenance sheet:

the blue cap thing has an o-ring.  It's tiny; be careful to do any work over a plugged sink to not lose it down the drain.
the two white things are backflow valves.  Mine were so sticky that the valve was stuck.  Only after cleaning did i realize they were valves.
if you’re dirty enough that you have low pressure, rinsing with water probably won't fix you, you'd need a stiff bristle brush to actually get any detritus off.


While I hate plumbing, I do quite a lot for close friends and family.  I don't know exactly what you are doing, but I know a couple of things, and I hope these will help.  When you loosen the gland nut closest to the wall, you probably need to turn it clockwise.  Normally when you loosen something, you usually  go counter-clockwise.  In this case the nut stays on the pipe, not the valve.  Always you a back wrench like you were talking about to keep from twisting the pipe.

Here's a You Tube video that shows it.  I hope that this helps and is not exactly what you have done before.  Did I say I hate plumbing?


Basement Subfloor at Bottom Stair Landing

New landing at height of last step

Build the new basement floor across the full room.
Add a new landing - really just another floor that is at the height of the existing bottom step. Depending on how you finish it, you may add a thin (max. 3/8" ideally, as already noted) layer on top of both the stair and the new floor to make it function and appear as one smooth surface. This landing should be at least 3 feet deep, though that includes the stair that becomes part of it.

That leaves you with one short step at the end of the landing down to the new basement floor.


Is there any point in putting solid stain (rather than paint) on LP Smartside?

differences... between solid stain and paint?

Although there is a huge variety of products and no hard rules for naming them, solid-color stain (in general) is usually used on rough surfaced wood because it is typically thinner and will not hide the texture like paint will. It is also generally easier to apply to rough surfaces because it is thinner.
As to your question about the difference, not much. Solid-color stain is not a penetrating stain as you presume in your question. Like paint, it forms a cured film on the surface, benefits from having a primer applied, and can bubble and peel on improperly prepared surfaces just like paint will.

...is there any reason at all not to just use paint?

Yes, and no. I find that it is easier to apply (and to recoat later) solid-color stain on large exterior textured-wood surfaces. On the other hand solid-color stains are flat (no or very little sheen) and need to be recoated every so often (like every 2-3 years) to stay looking fresh, whereas a paint with a sheen would give more durability and may not need repainting for years and years.


Adding an eaves drip edge to an existing roof installation

It is possible that your ice & water shield will peel up cleanly depending on age, climate, current temperature, sun exposure, etc. Try that first, otherwise...

Installing drip edge under the two layers of shingle that should be present will take care of 99% of the water flow. The small amount that may come down during ice dam conditions may run under the edge. You'll need to decide whether that's a concern in your case.

You could also install your edge, then seal it with a narrow strip of ice & water shield. It'll bond with the existing layer over time and seal against nearly all leaks.

The bottom line is that anything is likely to improve your current situation.


It depends on the size of your drain.  You can do it with a 1.5" PVC but a 2" really won't work.
Allowable hole size in joist
The maximum allowed hole you can drill in a joist is 1/3rd the depth of that joist.  The actual depth of a 2x8 joist is 7.25" allowing only a 2.4" hole.
A 2" PVC pipe is 2.375" outer diameter (2-3/8") and you'll probably never get a 2.375" pipe into a 2.4" hole.  Milwaukee is the brand plumbers use in my area and Milwaukee's hole saw kits don't even come with 2-3/8" saws because they're not practical.
If your drain is 1.5", Family Handyman has a helpful article showing you the right way to plan where to drill the hole in your joist.  Note you need to plan on a 1/4" slope per foot of drain line, too; so don't figure on going through very many joists in series with this drain, or you'll be too far from the center of the joists and compromise them.
1.5" drain capacity
A 1.5" drain is only enough for 3 drainage fixture units (DFUs).  That's sufficient for your kitchen sink & garbage disposal (DFUs per fixture table) but it is not enough for an additional dishwasher to meet code.


How can I fix a not-quite-hole in my carpet?

You might try crocheting yarn from elsewhere on the carpet onto the backing. Basically you are pushing loops of yarn through that backing and then pulling them up so they're even with the rest of the yarn. It'll be finicky to get looking right, but should be a nice durable solution if done well.

Alternately, as others have said, cut a scrap and use it to patch that area. If you match the nap direction and keep the edges of the backing material tight when you tape it in place, you should be able to tease the strands up enough to make it look seamless.


Given that you are splitting power to disposal and dishwasher, you cannot "split" and have some things be GFCI and others not.  You have to put the works on GFCI, which will be annoying.

Putting the GFCI under the sink in a 2-gang box is out of the question; the reason is GFCIs must be accessible.   Your options are:

GFCI breaker. And done.

Or:

Put the entire downline on the GFCI+recep+switch

...including the switch itself.

Pretty simple to wire:  The hot and neutral from supply go on the LINE terminals. Nothing else goes on the LINE terminals.  All other things go on LOAD, no matter what (except grounds, of course).  Pigtail if necessary.


How to fix a stripped metal nut hole on a refrigerator?

Take the bolt to the hardware store, figure out the thread size by screwing it into nuts until you find one that fits. Then go over to the aisle with taps and dies and buy a tap that matches that thread size.

You'll want to screw that tap into the hole until you meet resistance.

At the point where you find resistance, you'll want to use a wrench to slowly keep threading the tap into the hole for 2 or 3 turns. This should clean up the bad threads up by re-cutting the metal. Remove the tap and try to thread your handle in again. If it still does not go in all the way, try to tap another 2-3 turns, but be cautious of threading too deep - you may start cutting away at the insulation inside of the refrigerator.

This process is called "thread chasing," if you'd like to do some more research on the topic.


ONLY IF... the floor surface is well-prepared (1/2" cement board minimum), the tiles have a thick enough body (some wall tiles have a very thin body, and are unsuitable for floor tiles because they're so fragile), and are made up of a material (my favorite is red clay) suitable for compressive loading (your heeled shoes, or high heels), your mortaring work is IMPECCABLE, and your tile-laying technique is excellent.


After a water main line repair on our street, our hot water stream for the bathtub suddenly is very weak. Could the pipe be clogged by debris?

Yes debris could be plugging the bathtub valve (easy check other faucets working properly? )
Could the trickle of water speed up the mineral deposits cause this (if you have been doing it constantly for years,,, ok not to this level)
Debris are probably plugging the orifices in the valve. Many valves can be disassembled then water flowed pushing out the debris that are causing the blockage.
Single handle or washer-less faucet. Turn the water off pull the cartridge, the tricky part now flush the valve by turning the water on for a second pushing the debris out of the valve. If the valve is recessed in the wall aluminum foil or even heavy card stock paper around the valve into the tub to catch the water reduces the mess. Clean out the cartridge some are not that expensive to replace and you get new seals. Reassemble and turn water back on.
I have done this on multiple valves. Washer based valves same process remove valve stem and flow water to flush debris out.
If a shower head is plugged don’t forget it could be just the head it self, but tub spigots are usually wide open after the valve so the blockage is normally at the valve(s)


What you want is a "jumbo pigtail"

Take a length of 14/2 W/G UF cable, run it from the inside box through the wall to the outside box (through knockouts using cable clamps, not out the lid of the inside box), and wire it white-to-white, black-to-black, bare-to-bare in the inside box (with the breaker off of course).  Then you can wire the coach light fixture to the "jumbo pigtail" in the outside mounting box.


Don’t use wood glue it will not normally adhere to the laminate.
Rubber cement / contact adhesive is a good method. I have a spray that is great for this it is made for putting sandpaper on sanding disks. But it’s just rubber cement in a spray can.
For Rubber cement contact adhesives to work they need to be applied and let dry until tacky then pressed together.
I suggest the spray in this case so there are no bubbles of adhesive but a thin coat allowed to get tacky then pressed together is how laminate countertops are done.
Once the contact glue , rubber cement is applied it should not come loose again so make sure to align the piece as once stuck it is almost impossible to remove without breaking.
I have laminate rollers to push things together but this size could be done with the palm of your hand just don’t use excessive glue.


What kind of paver edging should be used that won't show when completed?

You can lay a soldier course of the pavers to edge the patio, and then lay a wedge of concrete to lock the soldier course in place.  You can cover over the concrete with dirt after it cures.

(Image Credit)


Is this gas range ventilation setup dangerous?

I would say that this is highly dangerous. It is against US and Canadian code to not have outside ventilation for any fuel-burning appliance in your home; that's your furnace, HWH and stove/oven, assuming all are NG or propane. It is only acceptable to have a "filter-only" vent hood for your stove if it's all-electric (which BTW is the case for every single apartment I've ever rented; gas appliances may be cheaper on utility bills in the US, but a gas stove is a huge fire hazard and general liability for any landlord).

The code is in place for a very good reason; not only can inefficient burning of fossil fuels produce carbon monoxide and smoke (both of which continue to cause damage long after you've reached fresh air), but even when these fuels burn ideally, they remove oxygen from the air and replace it with CO2. CO2 in itself is not toxic in the same way CO and soot smoke are; as soon as you reach fresh air the symptoms of CO2 asphyxia begin to dissipate, while soot and CO poisoning ("smoke inhalation") can kill you hours after you reach fresh air. However, the consumption of oxygen and production of CO2 in a space with inadequate ventilation is a double-whammy for anyone in the same space; the oxygen is being consumed so there's less of it even in upper strata of the room's air, and as the CO2 builds it settles downward in a "blanket", pushing oxygen up towards the ceiling and away from you.

As the CO2 level builds, your body's natural "inhale/exhale" reflexes go haywire in a Catch-22 condition called hypercapnia; your natural breathing while in a high-CO2 atmosphere actually increases the CO2 levels in your blood, but the only thing your body can do to reduce CO2 levels is breathe. So, you start hyperventilating, which only exacerbates the problem. Should you pass out from lack of oxygen, you will not wake up if someone else doesn't get you out of the room or get some ventilation of fresh air through it.

Your landlord is running illegal housing. However, he may not know it, so be nice at first. Follow standard procedure for maintenance requests, and ask the landlord to install a proper outside vent line for this fume hood. If he refuses or drags his feet, you can call in the city's Code Compliance officials, or federal HUD (Housing and Urban Development) representative, and they will MAKE the landlord comply. Depending on the terms of your contract, the landlord may be giving you a free out by not living up to his end, meaning you may be able to break the lease at no cost if this has gone on for some time with the landlord's knowledge and inaction.

Understand that the cheapest way for your landlord to fix the problem with tenants still occupying the units may well be to cap off the gas feed and replace all the gas cooktops with the cheapest electric setups he can find. If this was the reason you moved in, and you don't get a "free out" from this debacle, you may find yourself stuck with a spiral-coil POS.


How to remove old wires of utility companies

If they are a very thin pair they might be phone cable otherwise they are probably power.
You don't really want to go climbing a pole and cutting through unknown power cables - not least because they probably belong to the power company.

Call the local electric company and tell them you want them removed. They would probably be glad of the copper - with the metal price at the moment they are suffering from vandelism as people steal copper


Is there a tool that can clean the fins of a base board heater?

Like most projects, the undertaker isn't limited to just one tool. You have plenty of options to get those heat-sinks cleaned up.

If the heaters are really as old as the house foundation, which is likely considering this was a convenient heating method for older homes (pre-1960), first you need to remove the front cover. You might have already done that since you are able to navigate the vacuum nozzle into the heat sinks which I can't imagine doing with the panels still on. The vacuum should be used towards the end of the cleaning process, which is great to pickup loose material, but not so much to "pry" off this build up of dust in question.

Sure, you can use a small little air can, but I would save that step towards the end as well for some detailed cleaning. But to get the bulk of the debris out, I recommend a portable air compressor with a Pistol Grip Blow Gun. Similar to the air can, but with much more pressure and focused aim. If you don't have a portable air compressor, it's definitely a good investment and you will find many uses for them. Many compressors on the market today either come with a set of attachments or can be purchased separately.

For safety, of course make sure no one else is in the area, and that you wear a face mask to avoid breathing in any debris. Leaf Blowers aren't recommended indoors if they are gas powered. Even electrical leaf blowers aren't recommended as the air has a much wider landing area and they don't have as much power as one would expect.

Also, before attaching the front cover (and possibly side covers), if you notice that the fins are severely out of shape, you should use an appropriate tool to straighten them out if possible. Doing so is very easy as the fins are very flexible, hence the reason why they might be out of shape. But it may take some time straightening out fin by fin. The purpose of doing this is to provide a better heat transfer and better, well, radiation. But if they are just very slightly bent, you shouldn't worry about it too much. Technically it will reduce efficiency, i don't know by how much, but it's expected to never see these fins in perfect shape. They may even purchased brand new with slight bends here and there so It's not a major concern.


This is a common problem in NYC.  There's no perfect solution.
What I've done is put in an electronic thermostat with remote sensors on each floor.
Then, using the data I've collected, I tell the thermostat which devices to obey at each time interval.
In general, each floor is a degree or two off from the other ones, but the top floor can be much hotter/colder than the other ones, and, of course, you get tenants who leave windows open in winter...


How to seal cracks between stone veneer and soffit?

If you're looking for a long lasting repair, I'd suggest a gunnable rubberized/polyurethane caulk such as Sonolastic NP1. It comes in various colors. Depending on your locating, there MAY be a home improvement store, Lowe's and/or Home Depot specifically, that stocks it. If you don't have either around, you'll need to check with a roofing supply house.


Can I fill space in junction box wire clamp?

I'm not 100% clear on cable abandonment code, but I'd fold a short length of the same type of cable over and slip it through the clamp, leaving the cut ends inside the panel box. This leaves you with a tidy flattened loop outside. It could be barely long enough to protrude from the clamp on both sides, rendering it almost invisible.


Are the electrician's holes in my framing a structural concern?

That's all fairly typical, and I don't see anything concerning. The electrician could've kept things a bit cleaner by either going easier with the auger bit or notching the stud cleanly instead. They're in a hurry, like everyone else, though.
The holes in the wall plates only remove a minor portion of the width of the plate (which appears to be 2x6). It does carry one floor joist, but that could as well be carried by a 2x4 wall, so it's fine. I would pilot and install a screw to secure that split plate shard just to prevent a bulge in the drywall. Be sure to not pinch the cables. They must remain free to move.
If a repair was deemed necessary for some reason not evident here, a short double-2x6 header behind the wires with trimmer studs to the bottom plate would do.
The large hole in the flatwise stud doesn't really matter because that stud isn't critical to begin with.
I would consider replacing the nails in the protective steel plate with flathead screws, countersunk to be flush. That'll help with what might otherwise be a visible bulge in your drywall. Even nails with smaller heads would help. You could use trim nails and drive them flush. They just need to keep the plate from sliding around before the drywall goes up.


As mentioned above, a high-impedance meter can detect the very small amount of electricity coupled across the breaker by capacitance from outside power lines running parallel to the house... but as also mentioned, someone could have bypassed the breaker, so you need to check that there's less than ~20 mA available.

Put a small (1 or 2 watt) night-light across the circuit, with the breaker off... if it lights, call in an electrician to fix this dangerous condition. Note that neon lamps glow visibly with only a mA or two, so are over-sensitive for this application.


The fiberglass itself is not really a serious hazard like asbestos would be, unless it gets into your food or on containers. Not a good idea to have exposed fiberglass near your food however.  You should seal the hole with duct tape or something to keep the fiberglass from getting on your stuff.  If the missing piece of door is too big or you can't confine the fiberglass,  you should consider getting a new fridge ASAP.


Hot water (steam?) gas boiler not engaging burners, low pressure, sight glass full

If this steam boiler has not been serviced in a while I would recommend that you have this done to insure safe operation this winter. Using this boiler with too little or too much water in it can damage it and can be very dangerous. Without knowing more about how the boiler is connected into the heating system and what type steam system it is, it is hard for anyone to give a further explanation of how to fix your problem. I can say however that some of the return piping looks wrong. It does not have a "Hartford loop" in the the return at the boiler.  That doesn't mean that it will not work and heat your place. Also, post a picture of a typical radiator or baseboard installed in your home so the piping in and out can be seen. Also, send a picture of the return piping that can be seen in the next to last picture or the one before the radiator so I can see how the return is piped. One last thing, the piping that is connected to the pressure control and the low water cut out needs to be removed and cleaned. They both could keep the boiler from firing.


First thing I would do it get a larger sub-panel. Those dinky 6/12 panels are terrible for space and future expansion. You also need a means of disconnect at the outbuilding. I would get a 20 space main breaker panel which would correct both of these issues.

In the sub-panel you would also need to install a grounding bar to the back of the panel box and NOT install the bonding screw. The green wire would terminate there as well as the required grounding electrode (ground rod typically) conductor.

At the house you MUST protect that URD cable where it is exposed. Typically we'd use Sch80 PVC conduit. For the splice you can/should use Polaris connectors. They are available at any electrical supply house or even some home centers. They make larger aluminum wire splices a breeze!

There are a LOT of other code requirements for a job like this. Are you experienced enough to tackle this job?


Why would the documentation say to wire a pole of the 3-way occupancy switch to ground?

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for wiring the device. If the instructions say make a ground connection, then make it.

For argument's sake, that ground could very well be for nothing more than grounding the switch (so it wouldn't necessarily be a pole).

However, it is likely that this device is indeed passing some current to ground. Below is a reference from a competing manufacturer of similar products. Notice that this only becomes a concern when combined with many such (twenty!) devices, or with other devices that are prone to leaking current to ground. Also note that this is only a concern on GFCI protected circuits.