How to add insulation to a hollow core exterior door?

I think you've hit on the easiest solution. Putting in a layer of insulation board and then boarding over the top of that is the approach I'd take.

If you don't want to use the door then you can just put insulation right to the frame and board over that to hide the door completely. However, if you want to be able to use the door then you'd have to leave enough space at the edges so that the door could open without catching on the frame.

Insulation board is quite light so you'll probably be able to glue a frame to the door an inch or so in from the sides and then put the insulation in that. A piece of hardboard glued or tacked over the top will keep the board in place. This will mean that there is still some heat leakage around the sides but nowhere near as much as through the entire door.


I'm still not sure what kind of aerator this is but I was able to remove it.

After keeping the tip of the faucet soaked in a small bag of vinegar for a couple of hours, I was able to turn the aerator with a screwdriver but it didn't really feel like it was coming out. The plastic was also brittle and started breaking apart when I tried turning it, so eventually it came out when it broke apart. It looks like this is simply a plug since there appears to be no threading in the faucet.

I'm going to have to see if I can find some kind of replacement for this that will fit in an unthreaded faucet.


(How) Can I use existing stapled electrical wire to fish new wire?

In my (limited) experience, it's not possible. However there may exist some experts who can do this but - of course - it all depends on the staples and wire and the situation in general.

You could try just yanking really really hard and hoping that the staple pulls out or breaks, but when I tried this it only ruined the jacket around the old wire and the staple remained in place, blocking the new wire which could not pass through the staple because of how it was bundled to the end of the old wire. Again, there might exist a clever trick I'm not aware of that could get the new wire through the staple but it seems pretty impossible to me.

I would start thinking about alternative ways of running a wire to connect the receptacles. Are there baseboards? You could hide them in there. Is there a crawlspace above or bellow this room? If not, you just may have to do some cut some holes in the wall and repair them.

Maybe try guessing where the staples are and cut a hole in the wall there. If you get lucky, pull out the staples. Keep doing that unill all the staples are found and removed, then use the old wire to pull the new wire through. Best case scenario, you only have two holes to repair instead of 20. Good luck!


how to extend washing machine drainage hose such that it doesn't leak

Replace this hose with a single long hose.

Remove the hose that came with the unit and measure the size of the fitting it was attached to. Go to a good hardware or plumbing shop and buy a single length of heavy duty reinforced rubber hose and a hose clamp to fit. This is the only correct way to do it IMO.


Can I splice grounding wires together to reach an old outlet that needs a ground?

As long as the wire is sound and is joined old and new properly, i.e., not just twisted together but secured with a twist lock or crimp connector it meets code and is fine.  Consider that the hot and neutral is already joined there so the ground connection does not degrade that circuit and is quite proper.
That said - anytime you can replace old wiring with new is a good thing.  If you are running a wire from the panel - I would recommend you run entirely new nm or romex cable as far as you can.


Water Test for Grounded GFCI Outlet did not trip outlet TEST button or actual Circuit Breaker

Don't do this! PLEASE!
First of all, this is just simply not a good idea. It proves very little, if anything, about functionality of the GFCI. In fact, if you have a GFCI with ground not connected, this might not trip at all, as the electricity won't actually flow through the ground wire (since it is not connected to anything - no complete circuit) and therefore all flow back through neutral until someone gets curious and wiggles the wet extension cord and gets themselves to be part of the circuit! It is actually dangerous, particularly if the GFCI, for some reason, does not trip when it should. Don't do this.
As far as the actual question regarding salt. Salt is NOT a good conductor. Pure water is NOT a good conductor. Water with dissolved salt conducts better than pure water, but it still doesn't conduct all that well. The danger with water and ground-faults is that even if the water only conducts a little bit, it conducts far better than air and conducts enough to kill. You may think of "electric chair" type voltage/current to kill, but a very small current at 120V is enough to kill if it goes in one arm and out the other through your heart.
If you don't trust the built-in tester (and not knowing how it works, that is actually a reasonable consideration), get a plug-in tester. The plug-in testers work by diverting a known amount of current to the ground pin within a safe, insulated, device. FYI, the plug-in testers will (like the crazy extension cord bucket test) fail if there is no ground wire connected to the GFCI, but that does not mean the GFCI won't function properly.
While we're at it, don't do this either...
Do not test your smoke detector by burning some paper, instead of relying on those oh-so-unreliable-just-like-a-GFCI built-in test button. While holding that little piece of paper you may drop it and start a fire. And if it doesn't set off the detector because it didn't produce enough smoke of the right particle size, you'll be tempted to make bigger fires until the bonfire gets out of control... And if you do manage to set off the detector with a small, contained, safe, fire, you will inevitably find out that your wired smoke detector is connected to an alarm control panel that automatically calls the fire department while simultaneously activating alarms through the entire high-rise building. Inevitably resulting in a fine for a false alarm and/or an eviction notice.
Darwin...


Bathroom light has to be switched on twice to work

Pull chain switches have a rotating contact plate; each time you pull it it spins the plate and alternates between no-contact/contact-1/no-contact/contact-2/no-contact/contact-3 (the numbers are hypothetical, different switches have different numbers of contacts...). I suspect that one of the contact positions is dodgy (corroded terminal, bent contact blade, etc.)
You need a new switch.


Should I wax or polyurethane an old pine floor?

You already answered why; the poly that was put down is peeling off! My parents tried to use poly on a new pine floor when I was a child. It peeled and chipped and wore off in areas after about 2 years. I suspect (now) that the difference in rigidity was the primary reason for the separation of varnish (hard) and pine (soft). Surface finishes like varnish dry on top of the wood. I'm afraid I don't know why varnish would be worse on an old pine floor. Actually I would be inclined to believe the opposite because old pine should be harder; but it's really just a question of which is worse new or old pine?

I believe that Rubio Monocoat is probably derived from tung or linseed oil; it contains a drying accelerator (aka siccative); perhaps they use a manganese salt like manganese acetate. I'm not familiar with Rubio Monocoat so I can't say anything about their quality (sounds interesting... might work). There are many possibilities for what this material could be, but it's not wax.

Modern floor waxes are actually not true wax either; they are (typically) acrylic polymers. But that doesn't really matter, the point is that floor wax does work on pine, or at least it won't peel off.


How much do holes in metal shrink when it is galvanized?

The vendor will be able to give you this information based on the thickness they apply the material and any specs you gave or requested when they quote the job.


Caulking vinyl siding inside jchannel / post?

That's not a good idea. Vinyl siding expands and contracts quite a bit with temperature. By caulking it you prevent movement and could cause buckling or other warping. It would also look bad.

The insects would just find a new location and you'd end up doing it all over again. A better approach is to use aromatic deterrents. More on that


Reinstalling a belt on an electric snow thrower

Based on the way the spring is oriented on the idler pulley B, my guess is that it's meant to pull downward on the belt when it's installed, so the belt probably goes like this:

The exploded parts diagram in the owner manual (on the page you linked to)  shows the belt in this same orientation:

There might be a slot or hole in the idler pulley assembly that would let you pry it back with a screwdriver or other tool while you slip the belt on the main pulleys.

When the machine jammed with ice, the auger may have stopped and the belt may have been damaged if the motor was still spinning. Look for signs of cracks, worn down spots, etc both on the belt and the pulleys. If you can't find an exact replacement belt (part number PJ670 - 56663-024 on the parts diagram), a small engine repair shop may be able to find an equivalent replacement.


What are the pros and cons of aluminum coils versus copper coils in an electric hvac unit? Why?

1: Aluminum

Pro is cheaper,

Con does not conduct heat transfer as well as other materials like Copper.

2: Copper

Pro - Transfers heat effectively - much better than aluminum.

Con- Costs much more than aluminum..


Why does my Dewalt power drill only have a 2 prong plug?

Unless it is very old, it is "double insulated." That means the electrically conductive parts and wires are insulated form the metal parts of the motor and the metal parts of the motor are completely covered by the insulating case of the drill. There should be a box inside a box symbol on the product to indicate that it is double insulated. A double insulated product without a ground is supposed to be just as safe, perhaps safer, than a grounded product.


flow diverter for a nonstandard tub installation

Since the "look" is already rather "industrial" just put a 1/4 turn ball valve on the end of the pipe. Hole the same size as the pipe when open, shuts off fully when shut.

The picture implies that you could also possibly remove the blind cover from a hole in the tub to get a more direct path for a straight pipe stub that would take a normal tub spout, if you'd like a "less industrial" appearance.
Or replace the coupling and "S-bend" with two elbows and two straight nipples, which would allow the normal tub spout to screw onto the end of the second straight nipple.


You're not allowed to supply NEMA 5-20R receptacles with a 50A circuit breaker.  That is dangerous!
I suggest an additional penetration for the new receptacles, which should be put on a 20A breaker(s).  You probably don't want to stuff additional wire into the conduit that already has the RV circuit going through it.
If you don't think you'll use both the RV receptacle AND the 20A receptacles at the same time, an alternative is to get a portable power distribution box with a 14-50P inlet plug.  These are available for rent at most equipment rental yards that rent generators, too.


Can I run a T5HO ballast with significantly lower wattage T5NO bulbs?

That's not how it works.

Unlike incandescent bulbs, florescent bulbs do not draw a particular amount of power - they are rated to handle a particular amount of power. They are actually "negative resistance" devices - which basically means they will draw an infinite amount of power if you let them. (Specifically: The more current that goes into them the lower their resistance, which then allows even more current to flow into them, reducing the resistance even more.)

The job of the ballast is to prevent them from doing so and refuse to feed them more power than they are rated for.

So it's the ballast the controls the power NOT the bulb, and if you tried what you are suggesting you will put 54W of power in a bulb rated to handle 13.


I’ve never seen this done and I don’t think it’s a good idea. Cold air will get around the panels unless you construct them to be completely right everywhere. That would be a lot of work. Possible, but a tremendous amount of work, no matter the size of your living space.


How do I get started removing this wood frame?

You could use a reciprocating saw down the side of the frame an cut the nails.

You could also cut the inside frame in sections, without hitting the original frame. Then just break it apart with a hammer an chisel

Or if you can find where the nail heads are just chisel around them (without hitting nails) an enough room to grab the heads with a pair of pinches.


How do electric hot water heaters explode and what can be done to prevent that from happening?

Yes, that's a scary article but keep in mind that both safety devices have to fail to have the tank explode. The pressure release valve and the high limit on the thermostat both have to malfunction. Both of them to my knowledge operate at around 200 degrees F. The maximum you can set most water heaters is 150 degrees F but most recommendations are to set them at no higher than 120 degrees F. Also you should check and test the pressure release valve periodically for leaks and operation.

Replacing the water heater is a relatively easy task. Just make sure it's completely full before turning on the breaker or you could burn out the elements. Also, avoid using those corrugated pipe. Sweat copper tubing all the way. Your steamfitter friend can instruct you on this. Good luck


It is unusual for single conductor with cloth braid to be used except for feeder wiring like that. Cloth braid was common up to the 50’s  but normally there were 2 wires in the cable when run loose.  knob and tube also ran single insulated wires down walls but normally maintained separation of the conductors and was not allowed to wander like or to use the same hole through a wooden member .  so it may have been a diy job of old or a addition to the system,

many states did not have the strict rules we have today even though the national electric code was established pre 1900 it Was probably an addition. If both wires enter the metal box in the same hole that would be more evidence that it probably was a later modification.


Does this foundation wall crack justify immediate corrective action?

From the looks of it, you live in an old house.  From the pictures and your description,  you have a stone foundation with brick walls.  Where the wall narrows is where the brick sits on the stone.  The walls in the basement(stone and brick) were parged.   It looks like you have a superficial crack in the parge coat.  I would scrap all the loose material off, and repaint with a thick paint intended for basement walls.


How thick to pour slab over existing brick patio

You can go with whatever thickness you like, however, if you want it to last, you need to determine if the brick will continue to settle and crack. If so, thicker is better or your cracks will eventually show up in your slab. 4" would be the best, with expansion joints. You might be able to get away with 3" with more joints, but you'd be pushing it and possibly inviting cracking. A standard sidewalk is 4" thick, and even they crack from settling. 1" is just a skim coat and will definitely crack. You can't make up 4" by using your 2" brick, plus 2" slab. The brick below will continue to move and seperate from the slab, causing more cracking. Your best bet....remove the brick and level, grade, gravel and then pour a new slab, 4" minimum with proper expansion joints. Not cheap however.

What will this slab hold? Heavy weights like a vehicle? If so, you will want 6" minimum.


Power cut out while running floor maintainer - breaker blown?

When you reset the breaker were you sure to first go to the off and than on position?
When a breaker trips it goes into the trip position which is centre on the handle. But to reset it, you need to go to move the handle to the off position and than the opposite way to the ON position. Sometimes people forget to go off first and just try to go from tripped to ON which will not work.


Sanding between boards for smooth finish

If the difference isn't very great, you could sand them down with a belt sander. This is probably best if your wall is a bit uneven and you need a very slight taper.

Otherwise, you may want to use shims behind the thinner piece to make it flush at the surface. Then fill the edge of the slight void behind the beam or stile with caulk.

A third solution would be to plane them down, but this won't be able to account for a taper like the other two above methods.

Whatever you do, the most important thing would be to make sure the biscuit joints still line up correctly for the front side! So anything material you're removing should come from the back, if the uneven wall is the cause of misalignment.


I imagine you're talking about the bit of splashing that can easily occur, especially when children are coming out of the bath or shower.

Someone happened to mention to me just yesterday his point of view about this.  He recommended bathroom caulk.  I've seen this in the DIY stores.  You can either get a squeeze tube and just squeeze as you go, or get the rigid cylinder that goes into a caulking gun.

After you squeeze it out, you can smooth it out with a damp finger.  (You can wear rubber gloves if you wish.)


Tie lighting on Knob and Tube to a low voltage (12v) system?

The NEC, except for a few exceptions, doesn't really concern itself with anything under 50V. There used to be some commercial showroom lighting that actually did what you are talking about back in the 90's, but I never saw any of it applied to residential.

I would make sure of a few things before I did it.
1. Make sure the transition from 120V to 12V was code compliant.
2. Make sure that whatever you are installing is an approved system for your use.
3. I would still talk to your AHJ and get their input before doing anything.

Hope this helps and good luck.


consumer-grade modified atmosphere storage?

Air tight buckets and dry ice are used by some preppers to store food in oxygen free environments (as a bonus, it also kills any bugs hiding in the grain/beans).  As long as you make sure that you don't end up with a crust of water ice on the outside you should be able to do the same to keep your items dry and mold free assuming they've been thoroughly cleaned before being put into storage.

What you do is to put a layer of dry ice in the bottom of the bucket, put whatever you want to store on top and then put the lid on almost but not quite tight enough to fully seal the bucket.  Leaving a minimum opening is needed to prevent pressure building up from rupturing the bucket as the ice sublimates.  After the initial partial closing you monitor the temperature of the bottom of the bucket, and seal the kid down when it's no longer extremely cold.  If you're doing a number of containers at once you'll want to make sure your work space is well ventilated.

A 6 gallon storage bucket contains 1.5 cubic feet of volume, and you want enough CO2 to fill the volume about twice over to be confident you've displaced all the existing air inside.  A pound of dry ice will produce 8.3 cubic feet of CO2.  For something like shoes that have a lot of empty space it's probably best to assume the volume if what you're storing in the bucket is negligible for planning purposes, so you'd need about 5.8 ounces per bucket.  At around a dollar/pound it's cheap enough that unless you're storing a lot of stuff at once you'll probably spend more on the gas going to get it than anything else.

Ultimately though, while more practical than Ed Beal's discussion about nitrogen filled warehouses, dehumidifying is still probably the more practical option.

My source for the above was:  http://www.thefoodguys.com/dryice.html


How to *cheaply* repair scratches in plexiglass window

Some people will run a very low temp blowtorch or heat gun across it. Supposedly this melts high spots and makes it clearer.  It can also burn, so YMMV.


Using metal paint can as cover for non-IC rated recessed lights

Yes to causing heat problems, No to using a closed cover.

There is a 3" distance spec around such covers (to the sides), but the top must remain open for non-ic fixtures (to vent their heat).


Which numbers identify inputs and outputs in circuit breaker

It can go either way. often the feed to a panel goes "backwards" through the main breaker (compared to the other breakers).


I have that exact one. Yes, there is a little screw under the cap that is on the top. You will need something with a fine edge on it to begin prying that up, I use a box knife, then once it is up a little, you can get a flat screwdriver tip under the lip and finish getting it off. Loosen that screw and the HANDLE comes off, but you still have to unscrew another nut underneath, and that needs a socket wrench. If you don't have one, plumbing stores and home centers sometimes sell inexpensive tubular steel sockets specially designed for this (they are no good for working on your car, but they are OK for these). Here is a picture of a set that covers all of the possible sizes, it sells for around $8 in most places (assuming USA). You only need one size but it's hard to know WHICH size as they are all different from one another by 1/32nd of an inch increments.

Just make sure your water is off BEFORE loosening that nut!

Once you get there, these stems are usually "washerless" in that they have a little O-ring that slides along a brass plate and over time that O-ring wears down. Sometimes all you need do is TIGHTEN that nut to squeeze that O-ring down a little harder. Try that first. If it still drips, then remove the nut and back out the stem, you will see where the O-rings sit. Get and install replacements, they sell them in kits.


Help! Drywall anchor doesn't go through metal

Normally I avoid them, but there's a "screw-in" drywall anchor (it's metal) that can work with studs. The one I have is called EZ-Ancor but I've seen others. You should be able to find a small pack of them and add one that will grip the stud. That might solve your problem because the screwing action of the anchor should fit in the hole you've drilled in the metal stud.


What type of cable should I run from the service pole to my house for cable internet?

The price you've been quoted sounds as though they are going to pull feeder cable from their tap location. Feeder cable is typically 0.500 inch nominal outside diameter, frequently larger when including insulation and in the case of underground rated cable, a goopy substance used ostensibly to seal nicks in the jacket.

The stuff is seriously stiff, but can be pulled through conduit if the conduit is large enough diameter and uses sweeps at each end. Go beyond two sweeps and you may run into trouble.

Considering that you want to provide the labor, conduit is the correct way to go. Should you find yourself digging in the area in the future, a clunk of the shovel against PVC is preferred to a gash in the cable.

The cable company will likely provide you with the cable, called five-hundred, if you explain that you'd like to put in the conduit and cable in one sequence. They would suggest that you leave a few feet at each end for creating the terminations.

I've dug up too many feeder lines for repair purposes to say I enjoyed myself, but I had a good reputation on the device used to locate the break that the digging was more localized. With conduit, even if you drive a back-hoe blade through it, the need to repair becomes immediately obvious.

At the price you've been quoted, I'd guess that you have more than a couple hundred feet to travel.


How to construct this 4-way X table leg arrangement?

Interesting design. A google search on the image leads to The Four Leaf Clover Coffee Table which includes the image

It looks like the "X"s use half-lap joints, then maybe matching slots in each X.


How do I replace this bathroom fan with a different plug?

The conventional way this is dealt with is to replace the whole fan unit housing with all innards with a new one. With luck you can find a replacement with the same or similar housing size.
If, as your question suggests, you intend to just try swapping out the motor and fan blade subassembly then you need to carefully check that the new unit is in any way compatible with your old fan housing. A number of things need to be looked at in addition to the AC power connection:

Is the fan blade assembly the same diameter, depth and blade pitch?
Does the motor mount in an identical manner?
Does the motor rotate in the same direction?

There are very similar style motors used in these types of fans but there are probably as many variations as there are manufacturers and model types that they build.
If you do get lucky and believe you can acquire a fully compatible motor assembly then  you will have to get creative if you hope to use it. That connector type used on the old motor is a very common part that you can purchase from places like Mouser or Digikey. Then with a new connector you install it onto the cord of the new motor. Be aware however that doing this may invalidate the UL safety rating of the fan if you start cutting up approved parts.


Can I wire a secondary 240V breaker box for lab equipment from Europe?

Yes. The bigger problem is going to be if any of the equipment requires 50 Hz or is not approved here (e.g., Commercial U.L. or whatever code and insurance requires for a dental lab).


How can I repair drywall where it was soaked by a leaking window?

Dry things out with fans to prevent mold. Standard joint compound softens when it gets wet, but it's not necessarily bad at that point. Once that's done thoroughly...
Cut away all loose material with a utility knife and scraping tool. Any tape that has blistered will need to be replaced. Cut it back to solid attachment.
Patch with joint compound and your preferred tape (where needed). Texture to match where necessary.
Prime and paint.


Why do my kitchen cabinets' magnetic door catches keep breaking?

Magnet latches are cheap and rarely work well. Consider replacing the hinges with capture, European style closing hinges that hold doors closed and don't require any mechanical holding devise on the open side of the door. They are inexpensive and work well and are fairly easy to install.


How do I get leftover tape stickiness off of plastic surfaces?

Goo Gone! - they claim that it's safe on any surface, and I haven't used it anywhere that it's caused damage, but check a small spot first just to be safe.

If you want to try something cheap, you could always simply get the stickiness off with more tape, but that probably won't work with old grungy remains.


My thoughts the same about drywall @Comintern, to make up the 1.5 it would be easiest to attach 2x4's sideways.
If this is now a inside room I would remove the old exterior siding, However the “cement shingles”  look like the asbestos type commonly used you might want to have them tested prior to working with them for health reasons.
I don’t think I would ever put drywall over the lap siding even with the sheet insulation if now an interior room. If this is still exposed to the elements you really should use exterior sheeting.


I'm not a HVAC expert but a 5 ton unit sounds pretty large for a 3000sqft house.  You can probably approach this in one of two ways.  One is probably what the previous owner did and just throw more cooling capacity at the problem (two units, larger units, etc.).  Alternatively, you can start looking at ways to get more out of your existing unit.  Some things that might help:

Improve attic insulation
Improve attic airflow
If your windows are old, consider replacing them with more efficient windows
Find and plug sources of air leaks - doors, windows, electrical outlets and other exterior openings
Plant trees and shrubs to help shade the house
Install ceiling fans to help circulate the air
Add insulation to the exterior of the house (requires replacing siding usually)
Seal all duct work with proper HVAC tape to prevent leaks
Insulate duct work
Replace your air filter
Install an air exchanger

The benefit of trying some of the above is that they also help when heating.


Can this drain pipe service two bathroom sinks?

I can't speak to code, but what you'll want is a sanitary cross, or sanitary tee to do this. It should be legal in most areas.

The real trick here is you really need some way to allow air in. The best solution is to cut a wye or tee into the main stack further up and run pipe up back down into the new sanitary tee for your sink drains. If you can't do that, it should be acceptable to put an air admittance valve into the wall and add a vented access panel on one side (they should have had one on the sink you removed).

From this PDF


How can I prepare this old exterior wall for painting?

The first step would be to strip off as much of the old paint as possible.  The best way I've found to do this on stucco or concrete is to use a wire brush bit in an electric drill.

Second (and most important), it looks like you have some areas with significant cracks in them, so you'll also want to repair or fill the cracks in order to prevent them from allowing moisture into the stucco. This appears to have been the main contributor to paint failing in the past - note how all of the areas of peeling paint run along the cracks. When the stucco is allowed to absorb moisture, it gradually destroys its bond with the primer.

Finally, use a high quality masonry and stucco primer to ensure a well bonded base coat.


The only thing that worries me is odd placements of the lights and switches requires more wires than a typical /3 cable includes, and that invites bad wiring, e.g. using two 12/2 cables where you need a 12/4 cable.

Also, in this day and age, remember the light switches need real neutral at the switch.  2-wire switch loops (3-wire if 3-way) are outlawed in 2011 NEC.


Would it make sense to have a bathroom without a sink?

Unless every one of your guests wipes the inside door knob down (and disposes of the cleaning material) each time, you have no guarantee of hygiene, assuming you do the same thing. Each time.

And, it's a kitchen. We humans have evolved to that point where we generally don't allow (or try not to allow) fecal bacteria to commingle with the stuff that we eat.

What if you need to clean up a little kid who's not quite potty trained? Would you go back and forth between sink and toilet? How about vomit in the bathroom? How would you clean that up without needing to rush back and forth? So many other use cases come to mind.

Yeah, I wouldn't recommend this.


What is/are this/these fittings connecting my boiler to circulator pump?

If you can measure the outside diameter of the copper pipe above the pump and subtract 1/8" from that dimension (diameter) you will have the size of the copper pipe.

Then, the pipe at the bottom of the pump and into the boiler should be the same size but is black iron pipe schedule 40. Schedule 40 is standard weight pipe, the same as used for gas lines. Sometimes, the pipe into the boiler is one size smaller than the rest of the pipe, for some unknown reason especially if this an old boiler.( It was just how the boiler companies piped it).

If the system works and heats OK, I would buy the same size pump which usually comes with flanges and gaskets that fit the pipe size used. Today, the flanges and gasket set may come as a separate item depending on where you buy the pump.

The fitting below the pump looks to be standard black iron. You can buy either a reducing tee to accept a 1/2" or 3/4" boiler drain valve or a cheaper way may be to buy a standard tee and a reducer to fit the valve. Regular black iron fittings sold by Lowe's and Home Depot can be used on hot water boilers. They don't have to be a special material. Don't let anyone tell you that you need a special fitting of brass, galvanized, stainless steel or something. Boiler water is usually not corrosive.

Once you take the piping apart in the spring you will be able to better know the sizes of the piping and it's condition. As for the pipe going into the boiler, if it needs replaced, be careful when taking it out. If it breaks you will need someone who knows how to take out the broken piece. From the picture the pipe into the boiler looks like 1-1/4". You can "google " (standard pipe dimensions) to find the outside diameter of the steel piping.

Asker Edits:
This was a very helpful answer to find what I needed and the pipe sizes. After I used the advice above to figure out what I needed I finally found the manual online (totally forgetting the paper manual I have near the boiler) so included a diagram and the parts so I can accept this answer in case anyone in the future needs this info for a Weil-McLain CG boiler.

From bottom up:

1) 3/4" Drain boiler drain valve
2) 1-1/4" x 3/4" x 1-1/4" black iron tee (3/4" at bottom)
3) black iron nipple. 1-1/4" diameter. 5-1/2" length for Taco 007 circulator pump, 6" for Bell & Gosset little red pump (LR20 1/20HP), 5" for B&G100 or Taco 110
4) 1-1/4" black nipple close
10) bottom flange 1-1/4"
9) top flange 1-1/4" or different depending on size of pipe above
13) Pump gasket (came with pump)
6, 11 & 5) Bolts and Nuts 7/16-14 nut, 7-1/15x14x1-1/2" bolts. 4 nuts and bolts come in a pack from the pump manufacturer or can be bought at big box store in a pack with the flat style flange gaskets.


Dishwasher drains with drain line detached, but not into the drain line itself

Turns out it was the air gap. I didn't realize that the drain water always went through the air gap and was the only path to the sink drain - I thought it was a failsafe in case the main path was clogged.
Thanks to some helpful YouTube videos I figured out that the air gap was in the middle of the drain path and when I popped the cap off, lo and behold - pieces of star anise jammed in the top of the inner DW drain hose.
What I didn't know was that removing the blockage in the middle of a cycle would result in water shooting out like Old Faithful. Some lessons don't come cheap!
Running a new cycle now and everything seems to be draining like a charm.
If you're having dishwasher drain issues, check your air gap! Might be an easy fix.


Are my GFCI outlets tripping each other?

As long as you are sure you have a panel GFCI breaker (not AFCI (AFCI + GFCI is fine, just not AFCI by itself)) then yes, you have a redundant system and can replace the GFCI receptacles with ordinary receptacles.

If the panel breaker is actually AFCI (and not also GFCI) then it is a good thing to have but does not provide sufficient protection for bathroom receptacles.

If the panel breaker is AFCI or AFCI+GFCI then you may have an arc fault triggering the panel breaker rather than a ground fault. These are two different types of problems with different fixes. The short version is:

Ground faults kill people, especially in wet areas (bathrooms & kitchens). GFCIs stop the power fast enough to save you from serious injury or death. To work effectively, GFCIs can be installed anywhere from the panel up to the point of likely problem (e.g., the bathroom receptacle).
Arc faults cause fires. AFCIs protect your house from burning down by detecting the problems at an early stage. To work effectively, AFCIs need to be installed in or near the panel.

If you do replace the GFCI receptacles, I recommend getting a GFCI tester like this one. After installing the receptacles, test each one (and any other receptacles that are supposed to be protected by the panel GFCI breaker) to make sure that the panel breaker does trip when it is supposed to. If you find that the panel breaker does not always trip, then it may be failing and should be replaced.


What is normally done to bridge skirting boards around an opening with different floor levels on each side?

Dimensions on your photo would help make a better model, but here is what I might do in this situation.
The easy way
End the upper trim with a bevel (30-45°) at the edge of the stair, then continue in the lower room as normal.

Transition
You may want to use a transition piece to pull the pieces together.

You could even cut an angle into the top of the transition, for a different look.

You may also want to bevel the upper trim into the transition piece.

The complex, lots of angle calculation, pain in the neck way
Cut a small angled transition piece from the upper trim, down to the lower trim.

In this case, you may still want to bevel the upper trim piece.

There's not really a right way to do something like this. It's more about your preference, and the amount of work you're willing to do.


What qualifying questions should you ask a paving company before hiring them?

Asphalt paving follows a series of steps and procedures that ensure an enduring and quality job. To put yourself at ease that the contractor will produce the results you want it is best to communicate to them what your concerns are and how he proposes to deal with them. Write down your quarries beforehand.

During the screening process(and before the final contractor is chosen) it is customary to inquire in a congenial manner several pertinent questions that a respectable contractor will have no hesitation with answering. Here are the basic quires, but not all:

How long have been in the asphalt business?
What other similar type jobs have you completed locally? Would you mind if I called the people you have completed work for?
Are you licensed, bonded, and insured? What is your contractor license number?

To ask to give more detail regarding the scope and specifics of the job I would think the most critical questions pertain to:

Once broken up will the old asphalt be re-used or hauled away.
How thick will the base be? and what will it consist of?
What is your procedure if a tree root is encountered while excavating?
What is the final thickness of the new asphalt?
Will frost heave have a detrimental effect on the asphalt? And if so how can it be prevented?


How should I treat mold under the caulk around my kitchen sink?

Never caulk an overmount sink into place.  If you've done it right, you will have to destroy the countertop to get it out if you have to remove it down the road.  Silicone is incredibly strong when used correctly.

First, remove the sink.  Then spray bleach and water (50% v/v) all around the mounting flange and the hole in the counter.  Let it sit for a few hours and repeat 2 more times for a total of 3 times.

Second, get yourself some stainless plumbers putty.  Roll it into thick ropes (1/2" dia) and place it all around the bottom side of the mounting flange. It should form a continuous ring underneath the lip of the sink. Just join the ends together by squishing them into each other.

Third, reinstall the sink and tighten the mounting screws a little at a time all around the perimeter of the sink.  Trim the excess putty away from the sink flange on the top of the counter once it's done.


How could other breakers have been switched off when one was tripped by a short?

If you haven't yet turned them back on for some reason, it's most likely just an oopsie. There's what I call Face-Plate panel covers that don't recess or lock themselves around the breaker block nor have any lip that seats around the panel box (dumbest things ever). I & many others have been caught off-guard by these swinging or just shifting enough during removal to shut-off a whole side of the panel. You really don't notice the simultaneous click if you bang the cover or are talking. Maybe you or he hit them with your elbow, but circuits don't just suddenly crave attention.


Light flashes on then turns off. What do I look for?

Does the light switch feel any different than the fan switch? The switch can feel funny if it fails.

Also, what kind of fixture it is? It's probably not relevant, but it's not a bad detail to add.

OK, looking at your diagram, I'm happy to see that all the gnd and all the neutral are tied together. That really helps, as it means you don't have anything too weird going on.

I'm going to describe what I see in that diagram, so that we're on the same page (or so that you know I have no clue).

From what you've drawn, I assume that the wire going to the light fixture is the one on the left, the fan is the one on the right.

One of the center 3 lines goes back to the breaker. The other two of the center three lines are actually branches that feed something else (basically, they are chained off of here). That big bundle of 4 wires on the one leg of the light switch are just a way to get everything tied together without a separate wire nut.

At this point, as long as all connections to the switch are good, and you think the fixture is good, then I'd say it would have to be the switch itself - they are mechanical, and they do go bad over time. If you have a multi-meter, or some kind of circuit tester, then you should be able to check the power at screws of the fan switch - the one coming from the light switch will be hot all the time, the other side will only be hot when turned on. Then try the light switch - I bet it's not actually working correctly.

If you don't have a tester, just replace the light switch. They don't cost much, and then you'll know for sure.


How can I supply 17 showers without a drop in water pressure?

This is a calculation which depends on supply pressure, flow required, and distance. To avoid unacceptable pressure drop is simply a matter of sizing all piping components properly. It is easy to design a system which minimizes pressure drop and there are numerous on-line calculators you can use: link to calculator.

Your bigger problem will be hot water supply. At 2.5 gpm (a conservative estimate for water-saving type shower head) you will use 42.5 gpm (assuming all showers are in use), a good portion of that will be hot water (ratio unknown as is dependent upon delivery temperature and mix temperature).


Does a toilet have to be level front to back if the toilet doesn't rock and the flange tilts too?

There are purists out there that may say it must be level, but if it looks good setting there, I would let it set on the floor with no shims. It should not affect the operation of the flapper or valve that flushes the toilet. I would rather see a consistent caulk line at the base of the toilet than it setting level in both directions and have a huge joint in front.


Is it okay that my Sony TV power cord replacement has a slot for a third prong that the original doesn't?

The OEM cable does not have a ground or earth connection.
The cable on the right does.
So this will be a safe replacement for the original cable.
The ground connection will not be used and that wire in the cable is not connected to either of the other wires in that cable.


Can I wire a 120v 20A outlet with #8 wire

There is really nothing wrong with having a bigger wire. Not knowing how long your future is.  Would put in a over sized conduit in emt to handle ,future wire.  1 inch emt. pull in your 12 wire. when you do change it out .Use wires to pull in new ones. Codes may change by the time you upgrade.And wires may not meet new code and be waste of money spent.  Or pull your 8 wire add pigtails fine to .


Are these joists deep enough for the joist spacing / beam spacing I am planning on my deck?

I can't find a floor joist span table that goes smaller than a 2x6. However, the American Wood Council calculator gives an allowable span for #2 Southern Douglas Fir 2x4s (~35mm x ~90mm) at 16" (405mm) centers at 5',8" (~1750mm) with a wet condition 10lb dead load and 40lb live load.

If the dimension measurement is accurate, the joists wouldn't get past my local inspector (around here it's 2x6 minimum for deck joists), but even at 12" (300mm) centers you could probably park a small car on it with 900mm spans.


Hvac Fan only blows in 'fan on' mode while heating

Normally, when the fan is set to "auto", if the unit enters "heating" mode the burner ignites then a heat sensitive device sends a signal to a relay which turns on the fan. The fan pushes heated air into the plenum and through the ducts but it also removes heat from the combustion chamber, so if the fan does not start or fails during operation, the burner shuts off to prevent overheating, damage, fire, etc.

If your fan is not coming on it could be a bad heat sensing device or a bad relay (the fan motor and power supply seem fine as you state that it works under other circumstances).

You did not state whether or not the burner continues to operate without the fan running, if this is the case you may have an additional problem if your system is designed (as most are) to shut down the burner upon fan failure.


Ceiling sheetrock for basement apartment

Yes, 1/2” thick gypsum board can be installed on 16” o.c. Joists for ceilings with batt insulation. (24” o.c. spacing would require 5/8” thick gypsum board without sagging between supports.)

The Code does not require any special fire separation between units, because there are only 2 units. I also doubt a Building Permit is required because it’s not structural, fire code, energy, or exit related, etc. (That’s why we don’t get a Permit for replacing carpet, painting, etc.)


Wiring solution for 240V EV charging outlet in garage with long run to breaker box

That sounds like a reasonable plan.  The only thing making me itchy is the number of 50-60A (read: 40-48A continuous) EVSE's on the market.  Given the upfront expense and labor, I'd really rather see you wire this with #6Cu or better, #4Al (Al since it becomes very appropriate at these large sizes and you'll like the price.)

The only downside of this is you will need a longer junction box to make the splices.  A simple 4-11/16" box won't cut it anymore.

Technically, you need THWN or preferably THWN-2 rated wire.  However electrical supply houses don't like stocking 2 kinds of wire merely to save a nickel a reel on the price difference between THHN and THWN-2, so almost any wire you buy these days is dual-rated THHN/THWN-2.

As far as splicing, you're right.  Wire-nuts are going to be a pain at #8.  So I recommend Polaris connectors (lug connectors with a rubber wrapping), and since Polaris is very capable of handling sizes larger than #8, and handles aluminum very effectively, again this reduces the barrier cost for using #4 aluminum in the THWN-2 section.

Another reason I am trying to sneak up to #4 is that at this size or above, wire marking is allowed.  That means you can simply designate hots, neutral and ground  by marking wire ends with tape, which means you can simply buy 1 spool instead of having to buy 3-4 cut sections.   Speaking of that, there is never any need to distinguish hot phases in a split-phase circuit, so don't swerve out of your way to make one hot red.

The downside of #4 and up is it changes the splice rules from cubic inches to bending-radius. So get a long narrow junction box.  Don't shop for big boxes at big-box stores, they won't have decent selection or price. They also tend to obscenely rip you off on anything but certain commodities they think you'll price-check, that is why they're out of line on by-the-foot THWN-2 (not a commodity, unlike Romex).  Visit a few electrical supply houses and see if you can get trade pricing out of them. Most will give it to you if you reveal yourself to be not an idiot.

I just saw a Deep Space Nine episode where a customer runs a sexy holo-suite (holodeck) program. The camera reveals the digital companion's legs, waist, and finally face -- the ugly mug of the Ferengi bartender. I thought, "Finally!  A way to express what pulling cable through conduit is like!"

Cable in conduit isn't illegal - it doesn't need to be. It's a miserable hateful pull which risks damaging the wire.  The irony is, if that's your first conduit pull, you'll never know the difference. You'll just think conduit is a miserable experience.  I use stranded THWN-2 wire almost exclusively, and my experience with conduit is so good that I fit conduit even where I don't need to.

It really helps a cable-in-conduit pull to make the conduit quite large.  In the case of oblong cables like UF, that's mandatory.  For very sensible reasons, a wide flat cable like UF (or any non-round cable) is treated as a round wire of the largest dimension.  This requires larger conduit even for 1 circuit.  For 2 circuits, the sizes get truly wasteful, and that's a shame because conduit can support up to 4 circuits, after all.

I once did a calc on one 6-3UF and one 12-2UF. The conduit size was frightful.

As far as routing conduit, remember there is such a thing as a conduit body - typically found in the form of a corner. This allows conduit to make sharp 90s and provide a pulling point, at the cost that the cover must remain accessible.  These come in LL, LB, LR or inline.  Other than that, aim for no more than 1 or 2 90 degrees between access points. Up to 4 is legal, but starts to require serious pulling tools, and for a novice, that often means project failure.

Assembling conduit sections 1 stick at a time over the wire/cable is specifically forbidden in Code.  That tells you somebody managed to cause a warehouse fire by doing this.  Generally if a pull is that hard, that is God and NFPA's way of saying "don't do that pull" or "more conduit bodies".


Install New Lyric T5 on second AC, first one went great, this ones confusing, help!

Rc and Rh – split connections for 24vac if the system has separate cooling and heating control transformers, respectively.  Most systems have a single control transformer on the heating side only and in that case Rc and Rh usually are shunted together at the thermostat as shown.

Elec/Gas – this is a label for the switch below the labeling, not the wire terminals above.  If you do not have a gas furnace, this switch should be set to “elec” as shown.

Blu + Ylw wires – these look like they are connected to the thermostat terminal marked “Y”.  Look above the lower set of terminals under the wires.  “Y” energizes the compressor for cooling mode.  “W” normally energizes the furnace, but since you have a heat pump these wires are shunted together (compressor needs to be on in either cooling or heating mode).

Wht + Grn wires – one of these probably runs to the “O” terminal and the other runs to the “G” terminal.  I cannot tell which is which from the thermostat photo.   Based on the other photos, green connects to “G,” which controls the indoor blower and is typical wiring.  “O” controls the reversing valve.  When “O” is energized, the outdoor unit is in cooling mode.  When “O” is not energized, the unit is in heating mode.  In rare cases the terminal is marked "B" instead of "O," which has complimentary functionality relative to "O."

C wire – Based on the above photos, the black wire is in the bundle of thermostat wires somewhere, probably hidden behind the thermostat as you suggest.


That looks like the body of a Thermostatic valve (TRV). It looks like the actuator pin (in the center of the front face) is stuck in. This can usually be unstuck by wiggling with a pair of pliers. If it's really stubborn, some WD-40 or a LIGHT tap with a small hammer may help. You can then get a new TRV head and add that to control the room temp. There should be another valve on the other end of the radiator and it's usually worth screwing that closed and then re-opening it.


What is the best choice for patching and leveling concrete before tile install?

If you only have chips and small holes to fix, the floor patch and leveler will be a sufficient and cheaper.

If the holes are minor ( < 1/2" deep and < 1" in diameter), skim coating the area with your thinset and then pulling the notched trowel will safely allow you to bridge with 12x12 tiles.


How can I tell whether a fluorescent ballast is T8 or T12?

The stock sizes of 4' bulb are F40T12 and F32T8.  T8s are relatively new.

Both make about the same light, the T8 is more efficient.

So when they talk about F40, without any further commentary, and particulary when the unit is older, they mean F40T12.


Should I continue my basement subfloor under the stairs?

Practically speaking, it will be better to keep the integrity of the new floor intact. But the small unsealed gap will probably not be a major concern if you leave them on the slab.  I do have to say, however, a difference of 1 3/4" on the bottom riser does not meet current IRC code. The difference in riser height cannot exceed 3/8 inch. You may be grandfathered since the stairs already exist however. The only way to be compliant is to recut all the stringers adjusting the riser heights to stay within 3/8" max difference at any riser.


Can I use a normal 240v weatherproof on/off switch for an electric fence cut out?

If it switches the mains power supply to the fence charger, yes, of course.

If you are using it to switch the energized fence wire, no of course not - that's generally tens of kilovolts, and far exceeds the rating of the switch.


Why does my HVAC begin vibrating and stop cooling at night?

It sounds like your coils are freezing over. This could simply been the result of not changing your filter, or the coils need cleaning, so there isn't enough warm airflow over the coils. It's also possible that you're running the unit when it's too cold outside. If it gets below 60°F you should be opening your windows instead of running the AC.


How can I waterproof a shower wall after a repair?

In my experience, this depends on the installation.  My experience is not huge.

Ideally, what you have is a well-waterproofed shower that otherwise doesn't have problems.  If that's the case, then you should be able to do this.  Take out the tile in an area bigger than where your problem is.  If you have a Schluter-type system behind the tile, then you can open the wall, fix the problem, and use Kerdiband to seal up your seams.  Keep in mind that you're going to have additional thinset thickness as a result, so you'll have to compensate while laying the tile back in place.  If you have some other waterproofing membrane, then probably something like Redgard is something you should get to restore the membrane.  If you actually do not have a membrane, but instead just have cementitious backer units (CBUs) behind tile or, worse, mold-guard , then be aware that your existing system isn't actually waterproof to begin with, but is instead moisture-accepting.  In any of these cases, though, the main thing is to take off way more tile than you think necessary so that you can not only reach the leaking pipe, but make a flat-enough wall of the same material and installation style, then lay the repair tile over the top.

Whatever you do, don't rush the effort.  Time for materials to cure is really super important, so don't ignore the barrier manufacturer's instructions.


What should the ratio of crushed rock and sand for a paver patio be?

I just completed a 90 square foot patio.  I ended up putting down 4 inches of paver base (crushed concrete), 1 inch of sand, and then the 2 inch patio stones... so I dug down 7 inches all around.  To be honest though, I went deeper than that in some places and ended up having to bring in much more paver base (crushed concrete) than I really needed.  So maybe I have 6 inches of paver base in some areas.  In my opinion, the key was the compacting.  I highly recommend you rent a plate compactor.  You should be able to rent one for less than $100 for 4 hours and it is completely worth it.  You will only use it for 30 minutes but it will make the crushed concrete as solid as rock.

Also one of my neighbors who is a landscaper joked about how far I had dug down... he said I went way too deep and now I can land a helicopter on my new patio.  I tend to agree with him that the 4+ inches of paver base was more than needed but still I am happy with how it all turned out.

Couple other notes:

After compacting the crushed concrete it was smooth and solid.  When you walked on it nothing moved... kind of like walking on concrete.
Lowes/Home Depot sell paver base by the bag but that is much more expensive than having it delivered.  2 tons (approximately 1 cubic yard) of crushed concrete was not enough to cover my 90 square feet to a depth of 4 inches; I probably ended up putting down 3 tons.
Since the patio was positioned next to a concrete sidewalk, I used an 8' 2x4 with a piece of scrap wood nailed to one end which gave me a depth of 3 inches (the sand and paver depth).  Then I pulled the 2x4 back and forth across the area (with another person holding one end on the sidewalk) to level out the paver base before compacting (and to know where the shallow/deep spots were).
I used 1 inch diameter pipes to give me the 1-inch depth for the leveling sand.  Put two pipes down on the compacted paver base parallel to each other and then pour the sand on top.  Then pull a 2x4 over the pipes to level the sand.  Remove the pipes and then fill in the indentation by hand.  Now lay your pavers (or patio stones).
I used polymeric sand to fill the cracks in between the individual patio stones.

Updated with photo for @Chris Marasti-Georg (2013-05-20):


Do I need a vapor barrier in an exterior basement wall if I use purple drywall?

Ask yourself this: "If I install a vapor barrier, where is the water that it stops going to collect?"
If you put a polyethylene vapor barrier behind a drywall-covered stud framed wall, then the answer is that water that condenses on the poly will fall onto the wood sill plate, growing mold and eventually rotting it out.
Dedicated vapor barriers have no place in a basement wall. If the basement wall is insulated on the outside, then the vapor barrier is superfluous; otherwise, is it dangerous, as it will trap moisture against a moisture-sensitive element, as I indicated.
Here's lots of supporting evidence, since this perspective appears to be controversial. From http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall

Should I include a polyethylene vapor barrier?
No. Basement wall systems should never include any polyethylene. You don’t want poly between the concrete and the insulation; nor do you want poly between gypsum drywall and the insulation. You don’t want poly anywhere.
Paul Ellringer, an energy and mold consultant in Saint Paul, Minnesota, has a collection of slides showing moldy basement insulation. In most cases, these basement walls were insulated with fiberglass batts, and included two layers of polyethylene — one on each side of the studs. Ellringer calls this a “diaper wall,” and reports that most of them are a mess. “Fibrous insulation and poly are inherently problematic, and should not be used in below-grade walls,” says Ellringer. “Sometimes when you open it up, the fiberglass is soaking wet. If the house is two to four years old, the studs are often beginning to rot.”

And from http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/basement-insulation:

No interior vapor barriers should be installed in order to permit inward drying.

And from http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-basements/:

Unfortunately, locating insulation layers on the interior often conflicts with the traditional approach of foundation water control – namely inward drying. Constructing frame walls, insulating the resulting cavity and covering with an interior plastic vapor barrier is common (Photograph 2) and often leads to odor, mold, decay and corrosion problems (Fugler, 2002;  Ellringer, 2002). Also common, and prone to similar problems, is the use of “blanket insulation” often derisively referred to as “the diaper” for the odor problems associated with the approach (Photograph 3).

If you have not yet constructed your stud wall against the existing basement wall, please read those links to find out how to do it safely and properly.


I Replaced Pressure Relief Valve on Rinnai water heater (twice!!). New one does not hold ANY pressure

By any chance had you turned on the water heater BEFORE turning on the cold water supply to it? Because if so, you may have flashed the water to steam instantly, which is what the PRV is there to protect against. The same could have happened if you had not opened a hot water valve somewhere, because the heater would have had trapped air in it and very little water in the chamber, so it again flashed to steam and triggered the valve(s). If on the third try you turned on the water, had a faucet on so that the air flowed out of the heater, THEN turned on the heater, it would have acted normally to heat the water at the designed rate; no flashing to steam, no excess pressure.


Why do I have saw out the bar the electric box hangs on to replace it with a fan rated bar and box?

It would be preferable to know what that bar is secured to and how well. Fans vibrate, and that can introduce a failure mechanism lights (or you), as a static weight, don't have. It sounds like I'd probably use the existing bar if it was my own house, but that's comment, not recommendation.


Bus bar in a house? I doubt it would be code compliant, at least not here in North America.

Aluminum bus bars used in switchgear and panels are tin plated to guard against corrosion. Connections to aluminum devices are coated with Nolox compound.


Cleaning fridge and freezer - do you need to turn it off?

There's no reason to turn it off. You'd save a few cents in power by doing so, but it's not worth the hassle for a short period. It's not going to cause damage.


Do you need a special type of screw to mount a NEMA 3R box?

Generally the reliable way to mount a panel like this on a pole is to mount a piece of exterior plywood to the pole - then mount the meter base to the plywood.

One who is exceptionally clever can add sides, front door and a little "roof" to keep the panel out of the weather.


Paint to protect schedule 40 black steel pipe running outside above ground

Given that you're painting metal, I would avoid latex paint (which is nearly every can of paint in the home-improvement store).

The #1 issue is paint prep, especially if there's rust.   Rust is very difficult to stop if it's underway under paint.  Any way you can remove it; sandblasting is not excessive.**   Paints that claim you can paint over rust are lying, sure, you can do it, but the rust will punch through in short order.

Then a good anti-rust primer (I've been surprised by the performance of plain old Rustoleum 7769 Rusty-Metal Primer, especially if the rust removal is less than perfect).   Then a quality oil paint.

Generally, colors will not hold up in hardware-store-priced paints, because mineral pigments like lead chromate (shudder) are illegal, and organic pigments that hold up are prohibitive ***.  Fortunately carbon black is a mineral pigment not toxic to humans, so you can get cheap good black paint. And that's a fine color for a "black pipe" gas pipe.

** In fact, in extensive testing by NASA (who owns more steel structures in corrosive environments than anyone in the world), sandblasting is proven to be the only method that really works, with significant performance gains over needle-scaling and heavy sanding/grinding.

*** To give you an idea, I normally use top quality LPU over epoxy primer. I'm used to paying $160/gal. for black or white (but mind you it covers 1000 square feet).  I ordered some burgundy, and it was $295/gal. because of the pigments.  I do not recommend using LPU over epoxy because the cost of initially getting set up in the primers, converters and other chemicals is north of $400, a bit extreme for a small job.


What does it mean when an LED bulb starts blinking randomly?

LED drivers are generally switching power supplies, which apply pulses of power to keep themselves charged to the level the LED needs. One side effect of this is that if there's a trickle of power available, they will still try to charge up, turn on the LED, immediately run out of power, and repeat. It's a complicated form of a "relaxation oscillator."

If your switch has a light or remote-control circuit that is powered by allowing a trickle of current through the load, or if you have a dimmer which fades far down but isn't cutting off completely, you'll get this effect.

For what it's worth, sample-to-sample variation means that different LED bulbs will blink at different rates for a given underpowering level. I have a 16-bulb fixture in my living room which, when faded down, does a nice imitation of christmas tree lights, "randomly" blinking in unpredictable patterns.


Should I install a vapor barrier on the bottom of my garage ceiling?

Yep, the 120 year old houses do make life more interesting (and expensive and/or colder.)

Use an air barrier that is NOT a vapor barrier. More commonly known as housewrap. Vapor moves through, but bulk air movement is reduced.

For insulating inside the floor joists, either blown-in cellulose (which supposedly has very little issue with vapor, due to having very little air movement through it) or a sprayed foam product. Getting good fill blind (without blowing out the ceiling, in the case of the spray foam) is tricky.

I presume you don't want to rip out the ceiling for better access - but you really need to think hard about getting some drywall below the XPS (or XPS and added air barrier), or you have (and have now) a major fire hazard - plastic materials exposed in a garage that's below occupied space. The plaster ceiling above it may not burn through for a good long time, but the smoke from it will do you in even if the structure is unaffected by by a fire.


By coincidence, I saw a video just the other day of an artist who takes river rocks and grinds decorations into them with a Dremel tool and a diamond bit.  So yes, they can be ground down.

An angle grinder with a diamond grinding cup would do it, but like you said, it may dislodge stones.  A safer (but slower) approach is to use a Dremel tool with a diamond bit (like a drum or disk).  Feel around the surface for pointy areas and just smooth those spots.  The stones look polished (unless that's just a shiny sealant).  You can repolish the ground surfaces by using successively finer polishing disks (sets are sold for touching up granite counter tops; you can find them at large hardware stores or places like Amazon).

BTW, the grinding will produce a lot of stone dust.  Seal the drain so you don't clog it up.  Wear goggles and a dust mask.  The dust will be extremely fine, so clean it up with either damp rags or a vacuum with very fine filtration, like a HEPA vac.  A vacuum with a regular collection bag is likely to blow the dust out the exhaust.


What can I do about radiant hot water tubing above an electrical panel?

Radiant tubing is secured to the underside of the sub-floor. It is up in the joist bay. This tubing is ABSOLUTELY legal above a panel. Most homes I do these days have hot water radiant and ALL of them have tubing in the joist bays above panels.

This inspector is a renegade and sounds like he likes his power. Also, there is NO "3 foot clearance rule", whatever he thinks that is.

I'd politely ask him for a verification of exactly what code you violated with the radiant tubing.


You shouldn't use a tarp. It will collect water despite your drainage holes and will result in mold, mud, insects, and other grossness accumulating. Use heavy landscape fabric (heavy enough that kids toys won't shred it) and forego the rock.

Or, put the rock under the fabric to allow drainage to the perimeter of the area, and allow drainage through your walls. You might consider fabric above and below the rock to isolate it.


How can I reduce my 2" shower drain to match my 1 1/2" ABS drain plumbing?

You should be able to simply use a 2" x 1 1/2" abs slip bushing in the drain outlet, essentially turning that shower drain into an 1 1/2" outlet:

NOTE- the authority having jurisdiction in your area might require a minimum 2" drain size for showers...


How can I wire an exhaust fan to turn on from multiple locations?

I don't think it's possible to individually control two different lights while controlling a common fan using conventional house wiring devices. Powering the fan will backfeed power to the other light that was supposed to stay off. But I look forward to being proven wrong.

It can be done if both lights and the fan all go on at the same time. This is just a standard 3-way switch circuit. Alternately, wire two standard switches in parallel so one bath user would not accidentally turn off the light for the other. This can be confusing as one switch may not always turn off the lights.

To have only one light go on with a particular switch, you need a pair of single throw-double pole switches where one pole of each switch goes to it's associated light and the other pole of each switch both go to the fan. While such a switch is common in electronics, I don't know if such a device is available for house wiring.

Alternately, a double pole relay could be used to switch the fan. Either pole powers the fan, but the separate coils keep each circuit isolated from the other. Sorry I'm not illustrating this, I need to take some time to learn how to add drawings here, I know it's fairly easy. In the mean time, if anyone gets what I'm saying, feel free to add some illustrations.


Yes.  This gets clear silicone caulk.  If you are arguing with a countertop guy over paperwork good luck.  But he should have caulked.  But this can be done for $4-5 and 5 mins so it isn't the end of the world.


Minimizing wall thickness for basement drywall?

When the construction is non-structural, then 1x furring strips can be used to attach the gypsum board. However, for a home theater, prioritizing acoustical performance may make more sense than prioritizing an inch or two of additional floor area - particularly given that furniture/equipment selection and arrangement is more directly related functional floor area.

This is to say that selection of construction systems that minimize the transmission of airborne and structural sound may be worth more than going from 14'-8" to 14'-10" in room width. What matters is how the space is allocated to provide better function.


Presuming that this trim is nailed on like it is in most houses, why not just use a hammer to gently tap it back into place? If you can't see the nail heads and/or you're not good with a hammer (it's easy to miss a finish nail), hold a block of wood against the trim where there's a gap and hit the block (not your fingers).
You may want to get a few extra finish nails (they have a very small head that will nearly disappear once it's driven all the way in) to add some extra grip. If you go this route, you may choose to fill the holes with a bit of wood putty, then repaint. I'd suggest a careful touch up of just the puttied areas, but expect to have to repaint all the trim in case it doesn't come out looking all that great.
This way, you'll fix the problem instead of just hiding it.


Gas fireplace will not come on or it goes off minutes after coming on

From the sound of it some kind of safety has kicked in. There's probably a thermocouple that's connected to a cut off valve of some sort. If the gas is on, but the thermocouple is too cold, it cuts off the gas (this is intended to prevent something blowing out the flame from filling your home with gas!).

Look around and see if you can spot the thermocouple and make sure it's not bent out of the way or something silly like that. Beyond that, I'd call for service on the thing.


Code-compliant undercabinet light wiring

You'll need a different box

The fixtures you're looking at use a different converter box than what you have linked.  In particular, you'll need a Jasco 44130 box in order to transition from the connectors on the lights you've linked to permanent wiring. For your application, you'll need one of those boxes at each end of the connection, with a Chapter 3 wiring method between them, such as 14/2 NM cable if the wiring is concealed appropriately, or a surface raceway (Wiremold) with 14AWG stranded THHNs in it if you want to run exposed wiring box to box.


Trying to add an outlet on other side of wall, 3 pairs of white/black wires and ground

It sounds like you misunderstand what all those wires are doing.

This photo does not show it, but I bet if you look closely at the receptacle, you will see where there is a metal tab connecting the two silver screws, the tab could be broken off, and it hasn't been broken off.  That means the two silver screws are connected.   Also internally connected is the backstab and the screw it's nearest to.  (Note that using backstabs is the sign of cheap lazy hack work, backstabs are fast to assemble but tend to "fail open", leaving parts of the circuit dead. The job of backstabs is to make your house cheaper to build, that job is done, so now, kill them on sight.)

So all this means actually, all these white wires are connected to each other.  They are using the receptacle as a big splice block.  And as an aside, they are also providing power to the receptacle's sockets: a clever dual-use.

I imagine the tab between the brass screws is also intact and all the blacks are connected. In that case, I want you to get two red Ideal brand wire nuts, and 8" pair of black and white pigtails.  Remove all the wires from the receptacle, put black and white pigtails on the screws of the receptacle... then join all the blacks on a wire nut, and all the whites. Stick them in with tips even, and straight is fine, no need to pre-twist. They'll get twisted good-n-plenty when you twist clockwise, hard, until the insulated wires you are pinching start twisting too.

Don't reuse 10+ year old wire nuts, especially not Scotchloks. New ones are better.

Why did my circuit stop working?

Because you unplugged stuff.  A common belief is that there are unnecessary or spare wires in wiring.  That isn't true, except inside Hogwarts castle in the Room of Requirement. People don't install extra wires, especially cheap people who use backstabs.  So every wire must do something, and disconnecting a wire must break something.

We just established that all the blacks are connected to each other, and likewise all the whites.  This brings up a possibility you may not have considered: that the two wires at far right are not a pair from the same cable!

As such, your setup is all lop-sided. That explains the weird readings.

Those ”magic 8-ball" testers

Many of those are very simple.  However, the written legends on those things are unreliable and misleading under ideal conditions. That's why we call them "magic 8-ball" testers.   With your lopsided, janky hookup there, it's not surprising that their message is gibberish.

You're actually seeing the product of interaction between other things. Nobody cares why, because testing a known-broken circuit is a waste of time.   Fix it, then test it.

Ignore the legends and think of the magic 8-ball testers as more of a pass/fail device.  2 yellows = pass, anything else = fail.  They are not absolute proof of correctness, e.g. They cannot detect neutral-ground reverse.

Add that spur branch

Now, you want to wire in another very short branch over to the new receptacle location.  Easy as pie.  Locate the new junction box, not at, but next to, this one on the other wall.  Thread the new cable through. Use the same size of cable as you see there, presumably this is a 15A circuit with #14 wire since #12 won't fit on most backstabs.

When it comes to feeding power to it, did you do the wire nut thing?  Just add the black wire to the black bundle, and the white wire to the white bundle.  Done.  Otherwise I cannot recommend using the last 2 available screws because I don't think you're allowed to use screws and stabs at once.   Leviton makes $3 receptacles that take 2 wires under each screw, that'll get you to 4, and this "screw and clamp" arrangement doesn't have the unreliability problem that backstabs do.


Everyone has already noted in the comments how and why MDF is not a good material to use around water or moisture and that you'll likely have future issues so that is not addressed in this answer. This answer is for the case that you still wish to go forward with your work, perhaps as a temporary fix.

  Can I just use any undercoat and paint it with any interior paint?

Because water is a no-go it is necessary to use an oil, alcohol, or lacquer based primer first and then, after sealing, you can use latex water based paint as desired.

Here is a couple of articles with other related information that might helpful

Refinishing MDF Cabinet Doors
How To: Paint MDF


Why is my sump pump still beeping after I replaced the battery?

These things have a battery AND a battery charger. You wanted to verify why the battery went dead. If the charger is not working (or maybe is not even plugged in?) then the new battery will die too.

Check that power is getting to it. Check that the charger is working. Check all connections.


Mould on the inside of a bitumen corrugated sheet

It most certainly looks like tar residue to me... There are multiple latex paints that you could use to seal the tar in or you could attach a polyurethane sheeting of at least 3mil to the underside of the roof to protect your belongings.


google moen single handle faucet parts

I found two terms

escutcheon gasket and deck gasket


Wiring a ceiling fan with remote (5 wires) to 2 wall switches

The fan you purchased isn't designed to be wired with separate switches. It's designed to have an always hot hooked up to the remote unit in the fan that controls everything. If you want a fan and light to be controlled by the wall switches then you need to get a different fan without the remote unit since you can't just bypass the remove unit. There are smart devices out there that allow you to do both but you have to make sure they are compatible with your fan... and they're not cheap.


Remove the doors and all hardware, if you can remove the glass that is even better; if not just mask the glass.  Take a fine grit sandpaper like 320 and sand everything that is black to scuff up the finish (you don't want to paint on a finish).  Get a few cans of white spray paint in whatever finish you want and start spaying.  In multiple light coats allowing time to dry between coats and in a well ventilated area.  Most paints nowadays spays included shouldn't need a primer.


Do an Image search for "Psocids" or "book lice" or "bark lice" and see if they fit what you saw. They are not really lice, they are a type of mite and they feed on molds that grow in damp places like under the bark of trees (or old wet books), which your flaky stucco may have been similar to from their perspective. They kind of look like tiny tiny termites, but without the mandibles. They are harmless.


Do joints in adjustable duct elbows need to be taped?

Do the joints in adjustable duct elbows need to be taped as well once they're adjusted

Yes, they do.

  or are they considered air-tight?

No, they are not.  Far from it, in fact.

You want to tape every seam in your ductwork, using (as Shirlock pointed out) foil tape.  Each exposed seam, whether it's at a connection or part of pre-formed metal like the elbow in question, is a leak point.

Do NOT use Duct or Duck tape as the backing for it degrades over time, faster with heat.

Edit: Even though this is for a bathroom fan, you still want to tape.  Why?  Because air leakage is moisture leakage, and you do not want to be pumping moisture into your attic.  In winter it will lead to frost which will lead to mold.


Am I allowed to put a wall standard within 18" of a fire sprinkler?

It depends on the shape of the spray and the rating of the sprinkler head.

Sprinkler heads are rated for various situations. Based on the head rating, the sprinkler engineer can layout a pattern that “covers” the spaces based on the occupancy rating. That is to say, one kind of head will work in a narrow residential hallway, while another type is rated for business areas with tall shelving.

Very complicated. I’d contact the sprinkler installer. Their name will be on a metal plate chained to the “riser” or where the water enters the building.


Your parents did not have a screen at the exhaust vent terminal either. Somebody installed the wrong type of vent cap on the dryer vent.  Dryers are particularly dependent on much free flowing air for proper operation.  All dryer exhaust air is full of fabric lint. Fabric Lint will always clog a screen.  Either replace the existing cap with the right one, (screen free) or jerk the screen out of that thing and live happily ever after!


How can I add a carbonated water tap in my kitchen?

You need 3 major factors for this:

1) a source of CO2. Many people use paintball tanks which can be refilled. They come in 12 and 20 oz tanks so they would easily fit under your counter. But I bought a 20 pound tank as that seemed like the sweet spot for tank cost vs gas cost for me.

2) a tank to hold the pressurized water. For example, a 3 Gallon Pepsi style Cornelius keg is 17" high by 8.5" wide.

3) a way to keep the water tank cold. This is the hard part and I don't know of any easy solutions. I bought a 7 CF freezer and hacked the thermostat. It doesn't fit under the counter but my wife is ok with it because she drinks a LOT of carbonated water.

--
In response to the question about refilling the water tank:

The cheapest Cornelius kegs are used and hold 5 gallons/19 liters. That would last most people at least a week. So I just refill the keg as it gets empty.

I thought about other methods to refill the keg, partially with the aim of reducing the CO2 wasted when the keg is opened for manual refilling.

One idea is to buy a 2nd keg and use an air compressor to force water from the 2nd keg to the 1st keg. You would stop before the 2nd keg is empty so that air doesn't get into the 1st keg. Then you add CO2 to the 1st keg to bring it up to the desired carbonation level.

How much could you save by doing this?
Typically there is 2 to 4 volumes of CO2 in carbonated water. Let's assume we use 3. In other words, 20 liters of water would use 60 liters of gas. Also that we use 1 bar or 15 psi to push the water out. That's an additional liter of gas per liter of water. At one liter of water consumed per day, that's 365 liters per year of gas wasted by opening the keg to refill.

There are 229 liters of gas per pound and I paid about $1 per pound, thus the wasted 365 liters of gas costs $1.60. I don't think this is worth any effort to avoid at my price for gas. If gas costs you more, you'll have to analyze the tradeoffs for yourself.

Note that 20 pounds gives 4,580 liters of gas while 1 liter of water per day is 1,460 liters of gas per year. This means 20 pounds of gas will last over 3 years.

If you wanted something really automated, you could use a weight sensor to detect when the water tank was running low and turn on a valve to let more water into the keg. This assumes household water pressure is higher than keg pressure. For me, water pressure at the street is 100 PSI and my regulator takes it down to 60, much more than the 15 PSI that the keg uses.
If this is not your situation, you'd need a water pump.
The weight sensor also needs to signal when the keg has enough water and turn off the valve.

You'd also need a pressure sensor to detect when the keg pressure is too low and inject more CO2. I consider this too complicated for home use.

Another reason I do it this way is that my wife and I love the taste of San Pellegrino. I read an article describing how to make it at home.

http://blog.khymos.org/2012/01/04/mineral-waters-a-la-carte/

I was able to find a local brewery supply house that sold "Burton water salts". Mixed into the water at an appropriate ratio (I use 1 gram per liter), it tastes very good.

Since I have to mix the minerals into my water anyway, refilling the keg and pressurizing it as a batch process is no extra burden.

Here are some photos, I hope a link to facebook doesn't break any rules.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151813156323324.1073741838.770693323&type=1&l=eaa13eed3b


How to measure 1/4" per 1' slope for rainwater drainage for a flat roof

If water is ponding on the roof, there is essentially no continuous slope to the edge.  It doesn't matter what the slope is if the water can't run off the roof.  How long it was there isn't really relevant in my opinion.

But if you want to measure the slope in a localized area, take a level - for convenience, say it's 1 foot long.  Put it on the roof and raise the low end until it reads level.  Now measure the height that you raised that end to make it level.  That's you're slope.

So if you lifted it 3/4", that would be 3/4" rise per foot of run.

If you had a 3' level and lifted it the same 3/4" to get level, you'd have 1/4" rise per foot of run.


How can I reclaim heat from an enclosed furnace room?

Another alternative would be to install a door with louvers in it to allow the air to circulate.  It could be a simple door with just one vent, or a full louver door like the one below..


How much volume is lost after compacting 3/4" crushed stone?

When something calls for x" of compacted y, you typically calculate the amount of y prior to compacting.

So if something calls for a 4" compacted base, order enough to cover your area with 4". Then compact.

(Actually, order to cover 4", but the only lay down half, compact that, then lay down the other half, then compact that.)

In other words, you don't typically order the stone to allow for compaction. You order the stone based on the volume needed prior to compaction.

UPDATE:

If you're just asking about the rate of compaction 3/4 minus has, the answer is...actually, that's a tough one. There seems to be a lot of opinion, but no specific engineering spec that I can find. General googling seems to imply you'd be in the 20% loss due to compaction range, but I can't find any hard data to back that up.

Keep in mind that there's also issues of your soil base compacting as well.

So based on that limited info, I'd suggest ordering 20% over. Keep in mind that this may be a trial-and-error process that may not be worth the headache. If you can't get 20% compaction, then you're left with extra crushed stone that may or may not be easy to get rid of.


According to IRC, for supply system testing. You have to test using the maximum working pressure (80 psi) of water, or 50 psi of air. And you have to maintain the pressure for 15 minutes.

For air testing drain-waste-vent (DWV) systems, you have to maintain 5 psi for 15 minutes.

Contact your local government, to find out what they require.

  International Residential Code 2012

  Chapter 25 Plumbing Administration

  Section P2503 Inspection and Tests

  P2503.5.1 Rough plumbing.
  DWV systems shall be tested on completion of the rough piping installation by water or for piping systems other than plastic, by air with no evidence of leakage. Either test shall be applied to the drainage system in its entirety or in sections after rough piping has been installed, as follows:

  Air test. The portion under test shall be maintained at a gauge pressure of 5 pounds per square inch (psi) (34 kPa) or 10 inches of mercury column (34 kPa). This pressure shall be held without introduction of additional air for a period of 15 minutes.

  P2503.7 Water-supply system testing.
  Upon completion of the water-supply system or a section of it, the system or portion completed shall be tested and proved tight under a water pressure of not less than the working pressure of the system or, for piping systems other than plastic, by an air test of not less than 50 psi (345 kPa). This pressure shall be held for not less than 15 minutes. The water used for tests shall be obtained from a potable water source.

  Chapter 29 Water-supply and Distribution

  Section P2903 Water Supply System

  P2903.3.1 Maximum pressure.
  The static water pressure shall be not greater than 80 psi (551 kPa). When main pressure exceeds 80 psi (551 kPa), an approved pressure-reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 shall be installed on the domestic water branch main or riser at the connection to the water-service pipe.


Should I block my basement air returns to better cool my top floor?

Heating and air conditioner units have a fan that pushes air and it has a maximum ventilation capacity. The air return “allows” the air conditioner to draw air back into the system and is called “make-up air”.

That is to say, the fan can only “push” so much air, whether you’re heating or cooling and your unit will draw the same amount of air back into the system.

If you are “cooling” the basement too much and not cooling the upstairs enough, then you want to distribute more air to the warm areas. This is called “balancing the system”.

Without re-sizing all the ducts, you could cover the “supply” vents in the basement, which will force more air to the other areas. (You may be able to just partially close the downstairs vents, if you have adjustable vents.) By redistributing that air to other areas, those areas my get too cold, so you’ll need to “balance” the system by adjusting those vent covers.

During the cooling season, we like return air vents where we can bring cool air into the system and re-cool it to the desired temperature. (Likewise with the return air for the heating season, we like to have warm air returned to the system so we can re-heat it.)

I doubt if you have 2 return vents, I’d just cover some of the supply vents in the basement until it’s comfortable.

BTW, by covering some vents, you are forcing more air into other ducts. If those ducts are too small to “handle” the additional volume, you’ll hear a slight “whistle” sound. If so, you’ll just have to re-adjust how many vents you cover in the basement.


How can I determine which equipment in my basement is beeping periodically?

It's almost certainly your FiOS ONT. The power supply contains a battery, and it beeps when the battery dies. You can take the battery to a hardware store and buy a replacement for a couple of dollars, or call FiOS and they will send you a battery.

Those other deices you listed usually don't beep, except for the sump pump if it's got a water level alarm or a battery backup, but usually the water level alarm is constant. It may have indicator lights to tell you what's wrong.


Replacing thermostat on Sanyo mini split

Mini-splits, sadly, do their own thing

Most mini-splits do not use a standard thermostat -- instead, they use a remote-control module that communicates with the processor on the control board.  This allows for advanced modulating control, but has the downside that once either the remote or the control board starts to fail, you're SOL if spare parts are no longer available for your model.


If a bathroom exhaust fan does not have a duct on the side of it but I do have venting present in attic to the outside is my bathroom fan vented?

It sounds like you're venting into the attic. Just because the attic is vented to the outside is irrelevant. So you're pumping water vapor into your attic, where it's being absorbed by your insulation. That's going to be nasty.
I recommend that you put some ducting in to vent the bathroom directly to the outside.


How to drill a table top without drilling through it?

There are drill stops that are available that clamp to the drill bit or other stops that mount on the drill as an attachment.
For little jobs like that I have always found that some tape wrapped around the drill bit is sufficient - but don’t be pushing hard.
For precise jobs then a pillar drill gives accurate results.


Momentary switch - press once needs to give 5 seconds of power

There are 2 approaches possible here:

You grab a bunch of capacitors, resistors and transistors and start messing around to make a timer circuit. This is the most fun (according to the users of this board) and the most educational, but it is also the most likely to fail. This solution is also super cheap, if you don't value your time much.

You grab an off the shelf component that has solved this issue thousands of times in the field. I personally like the Omron H3DK series timer relays. They are robust and intuitive to use.


What is the missing part that would fix this outdoor spigot?

You need an outdoor faucet (or spigot) handle kit

  Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


What should I use to protect and cover my floors during construction?

If you don't have any heavy duty canvas type drop cloths, then use a couple of layers of red rosin paper. Tape the seams and around the perimeter to hold it in place. Keep an eye on it and tape or put an extra piece on any areas that get ripped.  Red Rosin is much better than plastic as it is not slippery to walk on and is fairly tough for foot traffic.


Is NM-B appropriate for an outdoor Jacuzzi hot tub?

to run through the basement from the electrical panel to the GFCI
  panel mounted on the outside of the house.

You actually are not saying you intend to run the NM outside. If you run it through your basement studs and joists and up a wall and penetrate the wall into the back of the GFCI Panel. Then you should be able to run the NM as outlined in NEC 334.15 and 334.17. However if the NM is to run on the exterior of the building then it must be enclosed in PVC, sealtite or carflex, or you need to use some other approved type of conduit or cable installation (UF) as stated in other comments and answers.


Electrical Appliance Killing Extension Leads

You'd have to check the rating of the saw, but I suspect for the cheap power strip, it's just a matter of being cheap.

However, for the coiled up spools, it's a different matter.

It's the Yanks

You know in the 1940s when America helped out?  One of our electricians must have left behind a copy of our Electrical Code.

If a 2 metre power strip would reach the saw, I gather you were only using 2 of the 10 metres of the coiled up cord.  That meant 8 metres on the spool.   Figure 160mm  spool diameter times pi is 500mm, so 2 coils per metre or 16 coils.  Each side of the coil has 16 cables or 32 active conductors.

Anyway, that old Electrical Code says about conductors in confined spaces:

So 32 conductors calls for a 40% derate... The spool is rated 10A.  Derate that to 40% and you have 4 amps before you start overheating wires.  Wow, that‘s kind of a stupid product, isn't it?

I'm guessing your saw is a fair bit bigger than 4 amps.  (You'd have to check).

The proof of the pudding is to unspool all 10 metres of wire and search it for thermal damage.  If you can't even unspool all 10m, that means the coils are melted together.  That is often the case when coiled electrical cords are used near limit.


Outdoor burst pipe best practice for the winter

What I would do ( have done) is replace the elbow with a "T" and add a valve to be opened in winter . Presumably the valve will be below grade and will need something like a sprinkler valve box. I have a few similar drain valves in my sprinkler system.


Where can I find something similar to a fluorescent tube, with only one end for electrical contact

I would use LED replacement bulbs for Fluorescent tubes. With LED tubes there are some that are designed to work without removing the ballast and some that need to have the ballast removed.

The ones that need the ballast removed and also require changing the sockets are the ones you want. Standard fluorescent tube fixtures come with shunted sockets where both pins are connected. Non-shunted means each pin can be wired separately. The LED tubes I've used that required ballast removal and changing the socket have come with non-shunted sockets but you can also purchase them separately.

You can build a base and mount the sockets in it and have some sort of friction device to hold the tubes. There are obvious concerns about safety with having electric wires outdoors in a diy fixture but I'll leave that to other more qualified members to address.

I have some diagrams and pictures on how to rewire a shoplight for LED tubes which you may find useful.

The only issue is that all the LED tubes I've seen only have light coming out on one side. Not sure if that fits in to your plans but I think it's safer than having fragile glass in such a vulnerable location.


Do I need to clean away WD 40 before I add graphite powder to pram wheel bearings?

Grease would be better than graphite. Work it in with a toothpick if you don't have a greasegun with a needle-tip.


If you removed an old water softener it is likely you knocked loose some crud in the lines that has now moved through the pipes to your faucet.  Take off the screen at the faucet tap and clean it out.  It might not be the source of your problem but it's an easy item to check before calling a plumber.


Ok to conceal electrical junction box under cabinet behind removable toe-kick

The definition of readily accessible in the National Electrical Code.

  Accessible, Readily (Readily Accessible). Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to actions such as to use tools, to climb over or remove obstacles, or to resort to portable ladders, and so forth

Junction boxes above drop ceilings are considered Accessible but if you have to remove part of the building (such as a piece of drywall) then it is NOT  accessible. I had a house where the panel was behind some paneling that was hinged. This is usually acceptable to the Inspector.

Bottom line is if you can easily access it, and if you leave information as to where to find it, it should fit the definition if Accessible.


Maximum connection of devices to a single socket

You need to assure that your refrigerator's metal chassis is firmly connected to the electrical supply's safety ground pin.
Then, you need to assure that your house's wiring is tip-top as far as the safety ground.  The receptacle's ground is connected properly to the panel's metal chassis, AND, the panel's chassis is properly connected to grounding rods, an Ufer ground cast into a concrete foundation, or a metal water main not interrupted by a plastic meter.
Further, things like gas pipes and metal water pipes interrupted by a plastic meter also need to be bonded to the abovementioned grounding rods.
Then this check needs to be done for all other electrical circuits and devices in the kitchen.  It could be that the refrigerator is grounded properly but something else you are touching is leaking current.
If that is correct and complete, it should arrest any shocks.
It may also be appropriate to think about an RCD for the house.  That is a ground fault detector, which looks at current coming in and going out, and assures they are equal.  If they are equal, all current is accounted for and it's not likely to be traveling through weird routes such as through a human.