How to insulate slab that's been extended?

Insulating out 2-3 feet won't make sense, as particularly on high desert nights far too much will be sucked right out of the extended slab to the air.

Removing the slab extension should be explored. It has no valid termite purpose, other than to provide good habitat and a staging point for termites looking to crawl up one of the inevitable cracks.  French drains on the other hand help keep the soil or sandy soil dry, reducing termite habitat.

A local insulation expert will have to comment on the cost/benefit of traditional slab sidewall insulation: have them show you before & after energy statements as proof their products have a positive payback in your microclimate.

--

Floor coverings are fine, but in your climate you have extreme desert temperature swings, and the thermal mass of the slab is helpful in both heating and cooling seasons.


Is there a permanent fix for my hardwood floor buckling?

Most of the time there are only two causes for a buckling floor:

Moisture
No Expansion

To elaborate, if the flooring material is real hardwood vs laminate and you are cleaning it with a mop, then you are using too much water. A Swiffer wet jet is plenty. Another reason for excess water would be from below, such as cracks in the concrete, or a plumbing leak.

As for the expansion, whether engineered or solid Hardwood, there should be about 1/2" expansion around the entire edge of the floor. Usually Quarter Round (wood trims) covers this gap between the wood and the wall. Sometimes the baseboard can cover this gap as well. If the expansion is not there, when the wood expands and contracts due to weather it will press up against the wall and buckle at its weakest point. This could be in the middle of the floor.

Most of the time expansion is the culprit. The fix would be to pull up the trim around the edge and see if there is adequate expansion.

This applies even with floating floors.


How do I tell difference between doorbell transformer and furnace transformer?

Your pic is a furnace transformer. A furnace transformer will be located close to the furnace and in most cases is mounted to the furnace itself. Doorbell transformers are a different story. I've found them in walls, behind the chime. I've also found them in the attic as well as the basement or crawlspace.


You'll either need to sand or scrape until you get to unstained wood, or try a bleaching product (oxalic acid is a common "wood bleach") to alter the color of the stained wood without removing it.


Without seeing the damage, it usually involves skimming with joint compound, sanding lightly, priming and painting. Trim away any loose material first.


Can I install a toilet flange in a shortened (sawed off) elbow fitting?

Were this my project I'd cut off the fitting flush with the floor and find out exactly how close to normally the flange fits. The inside of elbow should be the same size as the inside of the pipe. If possible, I'd make slight adjustments to the flange by sanding or grinding, then glue it in using primer and PVC adhesive.

I'd then be sure to securely anchor the flange to the concrete to minimize stress on the joint by the toilet mounting bolts.

This solution won't likely meet applicable codes, and will probably generate a few downvotes from sticklers who think there's only one right way to do things, but if done well will not create problems.  If so much material needs to be removed from the flange as to leave a poor connection or structural weakness, or if the curvature of the elbow prevents a good fit, you'll need to remove the concrete and start fresh.


How can I wire the Humistat and Humidifier so that Humudifier runs only during heat cycle?

There should be a terminal on the board of the furnace supplying either 24v or 120v. Usually marked hum. That's where you pick up power for the humidifier.

For like 20 years I've been wiring the humidifier from W to C without a single issue. On a call for heat W is energized if the humidistat is calling the humidifier energizes and compleats to common.


Do I need a vapor barrier for seasonal cottages

I would think you would want a vapor barrier, laws or not. A vapor barrier helps keep moisture out of your structure

  A vapor barrier or vapor diffusion retarder is a material that reduces the rate at which water vapor can move through a material. The older term "vapor barrier" is still used even though "vapor diffusion retarder" is more accurate.

This is why it's very difficult to find unfaced rolls of fiberglass for walls. The kraft paper acts as your vapor barrier. If you don't have one, humid air can get into your structure much more easily, where it can then condense. This might not cause water damage, but it can cause the growth of mold, which can make you very sick. Since it seems that Parry Sound, Ontario, Canada is listed as being a humid area, you really need a vapor barrier.

If the main issue is wondering if you have to insulate, that's a different ball of wax. Assuming these are summer structures that are unused in the winter, you might be able to get away with that. Depends a lot on your local codes. If you don't have to insulate, you can probably get away with just using plastic sheeting. 6 mil plastic is sturdy enough to withstand construction, and you should be able to find some pretty easily (here's a good example on Amazon, and it adds termite resistance too). Just put it between your wall and the outside sheeting you're putting up. But I wouldn't skip the vapor barrier, or you'll regret it for sure, especially on a seasonal use cabin where the air is stagnant for long periods.


If the underside is white or lighter, its a black rat snake. This could could be a black king snake, but it would be weird. My money is with black rat snake or eastern rat snake. This snake is not venomous.

It matches the pattern and has white inbetween the scales, so I believe it to inbetween youth and adult phases. This decribes the faint white pattern.

I would let it go, it's obviously busy keeping other pests from staying around.


It looks like you have a common RF 4 way cable splitter, with cable coming into through the green wire and 4 TVs (the other cables). You should look at the splitter closely (is this RF or digital; one in and four out?), and determine if I traced the line correctly.

If this looks like an RF 4 way splitter, and you want to add an antenna (no more "cable TV") you just need to remove the green cable from the splitter and plug in the antenna.

However, if you have a digital (only) splitter, it will not allow the antenna signal to pass through. If you can't be sure what kind of splitter you have, then just try it... nothing will explode if I'm wrong.

If you only have two wires from the antenna, then you need a converter like this:


What can be done to fix a squeak in stairs?

Since the house is 100 years old, the stairs are probably constructed using a tapered groove and wedge system.  The stringers typically had tapered dados cut into them to receive the stair treads.  Wedges were tapped in with glue underneath the tread to lock the tread into place.

Check if this is the case by looking under the stairs.  Hopefully the underside is accessible, if not you might have to remove some drywall or plaster.

If the stairs are constructed using tapered dados, please don't nail or screw the treads in to stop the squeak.  It might work for a year or two, but the treads will expand and contract, loosening the fasteners which will then squeak worse than ever.

Assuming you can get to the underside, find the squeaky stairs.  If the wedges are still there and sound, remove them, clean them, apply glue to the faces and tap them back into place with a hammer, tightening up the stair tread.  If, as is often true, the wedges are missing or splintered/broken, cut a new wedge using an existing wedge as a model.


I'd place some sort of wall/fence around the outside. You could use two or three segments of a gate system like this:

Or for a more DIY solution, you could build a fence on a plywood base with rubber feet to hold it in place.

I would not recommend using heavy furniture to block access, as it will (1) block heat circulation and (2) in the event that your child does climb over it, he would be less able to escape.


Will openings near the corner of a slab compromise its strength?

You could use large Schedule 40 PVC as conduit for the pipes. You'd use large radius bends. Will the pipes be PEX or copper? I think soft copper could be fed through a large radius bend and I am sure PEX could be. This would make replacing piping much easier if you ever needed to replace the piping under the slab.


Post and Beam sizing for 10x10 shed workshop?

I would consider beefing up the beams a little and going to just four posts.

Using table 14-40 in this document:

http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SS_13-14L.pdf

you can use doubled No. 1 2x10's for a 10' beam supporting 10' long floor joists.  Depending what's available where you shop, if it's easier to get No. 2 grade, you might want to bump up to doubled No. 2 2x12's.

For the joists - using this table

http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SPtable7_060113.pdf

you see you can use No. 2 2x8's spaced 12 inches, or No. 1 2x8's spaced 16", or No. 2 2x10's spaced 16" (or even up to 19.2"), or No. 1 2x10's spaced 24".

I'd probably buy all No. 1 2x10s because I'd prefer to just use all one size and better lumber is easier to work with.

I'd use 6x6 posts without even thinking about 4x4s, even if you don't need it for the weight, it's worth it for the additional bearing surface, just makes life easier.


First I would install a french drain outside.  This will keep you from having further foundation damage.  Then I would seal it.  There are many products on the market for this.  I use this product to do my brothers basement.  We did two coats.  It worked well.  But you need to address the issue before sealing the wall.  If not you will regret it in the future.


How can I hide exposed countersunk screws in kitchen cabinets side panel?

You can use wood filler if you're painting the cabinets. Use a putty knife to apply, and then sand even after it dries.

Alternatively, if you're going to stain the cabinets, you can use a plug cutter that matches the countersink diameter. Using matching scrap wood, cut a plug that has a similar grain pattern, and lightly tap it in the hole after applying a thin layer of wood glue. When it dries, you can use a chisel to cut it flush or nearly flush, and then finish up with sandpaper. Then you're ready to stain!

If I remember correctly, this 5/16" diameter plug cutter works well with a #8 countersink hole. (You may want to check, it's been a while since I used that combination on a project.)


What can I use to fill cracks in boarded walls before painting?

Wood moves.  Fact of of life.  Engineered wood (plywood, OSB, hardboard) moves less, but it moves.

In the 30's they were still using first growth lumber.  Might be worth stripping and then staining, although that is a lot of work.  If it's painted they may be lead based paint.  Research that.  Do NOT let lead paint get airborne (don't sand)

Ok.  You don't like wood.  Cover with drywall.  I don't like quarter inch -- I'm not good enough to get it on flat, and it's not a lot cheaper than half inch.  However it's lighter. While you're at that:  Shine a bright light at a shallow angle:  Is the present wall flat?

You will need to put box extenders on any wiring.

You may want consider taking the T&G off and bringing the wire up to code.  Probably knob and tube that old.  You may also find you have no insulation in the walls.


What could cause a flame sensor to stop working so frequently?

Have you had a gas technician go over your entire combustion system?

I strongly suspect that something is not adjusted correctly, and you have excess soot production (lint seems like a red herring, frankly) which is making the sensor "dirty." It also means you are not burning your gas as efficiently as should be possible. This is almost certainly a problem with combustion, not the sensor. The sensor fouling is a symptom, not a cause.

I don't really regard this a great area for DIY - without the right tools, which cost more than most homeowners (including me) will spend, and the right training to go with them, screwing up combustion appliances though self-service is more common than tuning them perfectly. There's also "not creating a giant loophole for your insurance company if the house burns down" as a minor factor in that thinking. Having burners professionally serviced on a yearly basis is a minor expense, comparatively.

If (as is commonly the case with high-efficency burners) the furnace has both an air intake from and an exhaust to outside, the dryer lint really can't be the problem. Some sort of blockage of that intake could, however, potentially cause the problem you are having (insufficient air supply causing a rich, sooty flame; soot fouling the sensor.)


How can I make a long wall perfectly level?

Use a 70 foot water level.
Here is a diagram of one.
Use 1/4 inch tubing or slightly larger.
Fill tubing with water before submerging one end.
The container of water is required because a huge difference in water level at the stick end, translates to a tiny difference in the water level at the container.
That keeps the actual water level almost the same, no matter how much you move the stick up or down.
NOTE: the accuracy suffers on windy days.


Can I install A/C in a home built in 1924 which has round heat ducts in the ceiling?

Sure -- or at least, there's nothing about having round ducts in the attic that would make A/C installation more difficult. In fact, because cold air is more dense than warm air, ceiling vents are usually considered better for cooling. The cool air flows down from the ceiling, helping ensure your rooms are evenly cooled. That's why many houses in warm climates tend to have vents in or near the ceiling. And why vents are typically low in colder climates.

If there is reason for concern here it's about the heating, not cooling. Is the attic space insulated? If not, then your ducts are going to lose heat in the uninsulated attic space, and the home will cost more to heat. This can be mitigated by good insulation & sealing around the ducts and vents. Secondly, assuming your vents go through the ceiling, there is also some additional heat loss through these ceiling penetrations. And finally, because the vents will need to blow heat down, they might not do as good a job at making your whole house feel evenly heated when it's cold outside (because hot air rises, but the vents are already up high).

None of this is a deal-breaker, though - just different design tradeoffs. If you want to evaluate the bottom line, ask for a few months' heating bills so you know what to expect. But also know that factors like good air sealing, attic insulation, windows, and an efficient furnace will make more of a difference than whether the ductwork is in the attic or basement.


What is a good way to cleanly cut through steel?

A Nibbler, is a tool that is used for cutting thin metal. A heavy duty nibbler is usually capable of cutting up to 14 gauge steel. I'm not sure what gauge metal is used for mini kegs, so this tool may not be appropriate in your situation.

Some nibblers work similar to a punch and die, nibbling small sections of the metal at a time (think hole punch). Other versions make two parallel cuts, and roll the scrap material in front of the tool as they cut.

Nibblers come in both manual, and powered variations. Powered version can be powered by both air, or electricity.

There are even some available that attach to a drill, converting the drills rotary action to a reciprocating motion.

Nibblers will give you a clean cut, and will not create sparks.


Can drip edge be affixed using adhesive?

I found this on a site referencing common roofing mistakes.  It confirms that the flashing can be held in place by adhesives.

Neglecting to install drip edge flashing at the eaves

The missing of drip edge flashings can cause several problems at the bottom of a roof, because these flashings serve a number of purposes:
Drip edge flashings keep insects out of the attic.
They prevent wind-driven rain from entering under the edge of the roof.
They provide a “drip point” for water to drip off from the roof which helps prevent soffit or fascia rot.
They keep shingles from “sagging” as they extend past the edge of the roof.

Solution:

If necessary, pop up roofing nails from the shingles and slide in a metal flashing. Glue the flashing and shingles with bituminous mastic.


Light Switch 3-wire but with 2 permanent lives

Use a 3-way wire connector of the type customary in your area to attach a pigtail (short piece of wire of the same gauge as the rest) to the two existing hot (live) wires, and then hook the pigtail up to the dimmer's common input.

Michael Karas' explanation is the most likely one, by the way -- it looks like whoever installed this switch was being a bit hackish or didn't have the extra wire connector and pigtail at hand, so they simply twisted the two wires together and stuffed them into the backstab common terminal on the switch.


Sounds like the switch is bad.

As with anything electronic, sooner or later it fails.

Try replacing it with a standard switch to see if everything works as it should. Then you can select a new dimmer if that is the problem.

Good luck!


What did my hardwood installer do wrong here?

From what I see...

There is "trash" in the finish
A patch, roughly in the center and running about 75% of the length, was either dry coated or missed all together

The floor needs to be screened ( buffed with a dull sanding screen ) then vacuumed, and finally tack ragged to get the finer particles that a vacuum WON'T get. I prefer to use a lambswool applicator when running urethane, but that's not the only viable method available.

Edit:
I just saw your additional pics. The issue is that the repaired piece of wood didn't have the same "amount" of finish as the surrounding flooring. Typically the first coat of finish soaks in to the material, which closes the grain and prevents any further penetration.

I cannot say as for the arcs you spoke of. But, there are 2 possibilities... 1) Buffer swirls as you suggested and 2) Edger marks

A typical round floor buffer uses 18" screens, so buffer swirls will be closer to that "size". Edger marks are made from the edger, which is the sander used against the walls. A proficient floor mechanic would also scrape the area that was sanded with the edger. There's way too much detail involved to explain here...

Long story short, the patch or patches should get a good brush coat of finish, to build back up to the finish level of the surrounding floor, then the entire floor screened and recoated.

One more thing, running finish at night is the WORST time of day for doing such. Using natural light is the ONLY way to avoid missed or dry spots. I say this because the wet finish pics seemed to be taken at night.


Can I repair a chip in my cast iron tub's enamel finish on the sidewall?

I have seen many diy fails even with products pros use to make beautiful repairs.
I would suggest a bathtub chip and repair company.
They can repair the chip and buff out the tub so it is invisible.
There are porcelain repair products out there that can be done on the side wall but these require additional tools a dual action sander is one of those tools I prefer the 2 part kits and if you can get under the tub and find the color Code you can order the right pigment This is where the pros shine they have a color chart mix and adjust the color apply with a putty knife cure with UV light then buff it out , the home kits take much more time and since we don’t do it often it usually is obvious where the repair is.
It can be done if not an epoxy 2 part it will take multiple coats and still have to sand the advantage to that method is you can tell on the first coat if the product matches and make adjustments but that method usually leaves a shadow
So it can be done but more looking online and don’t think 10$ kit will do it look in the 30-50$ range for a kit that will do they job Match color and last.


correct tightening torque for a noname single lever mixer tap

I'm not sure torque values are the right way to go about this since many things can affect a torque reading here. Most plumbers don't use torque wrenches.

Instead, make sure all the seats and seals are clean and in good condition. It shouldn't take much torque to get a seal. It's not usually screw pressure that creates the seal, but o-rings that fit between the walls of parts, creating their own pressure, as well as internal springs.


Replacement for Jacuzzi tub faucet with both handles on one side

Interesting... the original plumber piped that up him/herself (looks like good work BTW). Generally speaking, faucets for your application are typically plumbed in with flexible connections. The components are separate (hot valve, cold valve, spout) just like yours was prior to being hard plumbed. The faucet does not care either way!

Any regular Roman Tub faucet set should work for you. I would recommend flexible stainless connectors if your city inspector allows it (due to vibration from tub pump/blower). Sometimes flex is disallowed due to limited access, but this is an interpretation by the inspector and your's looks accessible to me.

This will involve "unplumbing" your faucet (I just made that word up and I officially claim it).


You will need a box newel with a long enough bottom section to notch over the  joists and attach it to the sides of the joist, through the face of the box newel. Anchoring is superb this way. This will let the stair skirt board die into it, the box newel will extend to the floor and the nosings will butt into either face of the bow newel. This is thew way I do it, or would do it.... On the other hand....

Your details are pretty well defined already. This looks like a fabricator pre-assembled everything in a shop, connected to the white sole plate, set it in place and screwed it down. The sole plate is the strength of the whole system. I am not crazy about this type of install and if it were me, I would detail my anchoring style with the finish details you have established just to keep everything consistent. That would mean swapping out where the anchoring is done. Instead of screwing into theoutside face of the joists, I would cut the box newel so it would screw to the inside corner of the framing after the subfloor is cut out a bit.

If the box newels are not available that long at the bottom to do it this way, they are hollow that I am aware of, so set a proper sized solid 4X4 or 3X3 at the center where the newel will set, long enough to extend about 2 ft or so above the floor and drop the box newel over it after the white sole plate is in place. Glue and or nail in place.


1/4" Reverse Osmosis Filter inlet line to undersink cold water line

You need a tee that has two females and one male. The typical size for this situation is 3/8" or 1/2", you note that you have 3/8"

Use Teflon tape on the threads too.

Note that one of the images below is 2M1F but is otherwise visually representative of what you need


How do I take a live wire off of a two way switch?

Never, ever, work on live electrical wires.

Turn the power off at the breaker/fuse. You should have a voltage detector to verify the power really is off, like one of these:


You could try partially closing the water supply shutoff valve to the water tank unit. This would reduce pressure and flow rate some and thus could also reduce the noise produced in tank.

If you do decide on this approach make sure to test it out a number of times to make sure that the flush operation and the refill time are suitable.


how do I turn a glass door into a removable mirror?

Specifically (without getting into product recommendations), look for "static cling film" as opposed to an adhesive product. You can get both mirrored and "stained glass" versions - they apply with water and a squeegee, and peel off again without a fight or residue.

"Privacy film" is another search term; or "window privacy film."

The stained glass or prismatic styles will permit more light to pass while still blocking the view.

Mirrored film can have the effect of putting the "private space" on display at night when the inside is lit and the outside is dark.


Sealing crawl space vents in Pacific Northwest?

Oregon resident here. You should keep the vents open if closed off things like radon have no place to go. Trapped moisture will cause rot, You may keep the water out but it will still be damp and it needs air flow.


Electrical: Is this tangle of wires in a 100 year old house cause for concern?

The first photo shows home telephone wiring.

One of the cables is the two-conductor service wire from the phone company. It is most likely the black cable passing through the knob insulator, but it could be that very old cloth-insulated three-conductor cable caught between the subfloor boards. You may be able to trace it to where it comes into the house, and you can see if it continues on to a utility pole.

The remaining wires are all runs to various and sundry phone extensions throughout the house. The photo shows samples of every type of house internal phone wiring ever used from 1920 to 1990. Look around the house for phone jacks; you probably have samples of those spanning 70 years also.

The inspector didn't say anything because the wiring is completely safe, even it it's still connected to the phone company.

Depending on where you are, if you can find a suitable telephone to use, you may be able to make local emergency (e.g. 911) calls even if you are not a subscriber.

The second photo could be of anything.

If the inspector didn't go into cardiac arrest, it must be low voltage and therefore safe. It's most likely for your doorbell.


Will an area rug cause the carpet beneath to wear out?

If anything, I would expect the opposite problem: the area under the rug would wear less, and be noticeable when you take up the rug for that reason (if at all)!

Assuming the rug is color-fast, of course.


As far as brands go, I trust DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Skil.  There are probably more, but those are the ones I've had experience with.

Are you going for a cordless saw, that can be more portable, and good for the occasional plywood cutting project, or a corded one?  Usually the corded ones have more power, and a higher duty cycle.


Where do I connect the C wire in my furnace?

Since in your case, one side of the transformer is grounded. You can simply use a fork or ring terminal, to connect the C wire to the chassis. Though it appears there's already a wire that's attached to ground, and comes right over near the thermostat wiring. I'd just put my C wire in with the other two wires, in that twist-on wire connector near the bottom of the photo.


House (old around 1965) wiring and line voltage differences

Yes, you need to get this fixed. Comcast cables on the poles should not be burning. You need to report this to the power company and also to the cable company. Tell them are are cables burning on the pole. It is their responsibility to fix that. Your hot to ground reading should be 122V, same as your hot to neutral. Have the power company also check the grounding at your meter. They might tell you that you need an electrician.


How to add a main shutoff breaker to sub panel

Some panels will allow you to backfeed a breaker. AIUI that requires a kit to bolt the backfed breaker in place. Not every panel permits this.

Honestly, the BEST approach (and simplest - you don't need to order a kit to bolt in the breaker and figure out if the panel is listed for that use) is to return the sub-panel and pick up a main breaker panel, 100, 125 or 200 A (more about spaces than "amp rating" - the main breaker will be serving as a switch, while the 50A overcurrent protection will be back at the feed end of the wire.) Sometime the economics are weird enough (high volume of main panels) that it may actually cost less than a smaller sub-panel that they don't move a lot of.

Remove the bonding screw so that the panel is properly wired as "a sub-panel with main breaker" which might also mean you need to add some ground bars to keep the isolated neutrals and the grounds separated.


How should I connect the left light switch?

Easy enough here
The good news is that the two left cables aren't doing anything complicated.  One of them is an incoming power feed, and the other is the onward feed to the light, providing both hot and neutral.  Furthermore, since the white wires there were connected to each other as expected, we know the black wires are our line and load connections.  So, I'd figure out which of those two black wires is the always-hot (line) connection, and wire that to the line-in terminal on the smart switch.  Then, the other black wire is the switched-hot, which gets wired to the load-out terminal on the smart switch.  The two neutrals get nutted to each other, and last but not least, the ground for the smart switch gets added to the existing grounding bundle in the box.  Then you can button everything back up, turn the breaker on, and enjoy your new smartswitches!


Was this part of roof and eaves done right?

The height of the fascia (the vertical face at the edge of the roof) depends on 3 parameters: Overhang depth, truss (rafter) heel height, and roof pitch (slope).

If any of these things vary from one plane to another, at least one of the other parameters must be adjusted to accommodate. It's often simplest to have a slight variation in overhang depth. It's hard to say what impact that would have on your home from the photos provided. Judging by the fairly low slope you'd lose 6-12" of overhang to bring the fascias into alignment.

If you didn't work those things out with your contractor beforehand you may not have much recourse at this point. There is no violation of contract, and it's merely an aesthetic issue. If you're on good terms, discuss making a change and split the cost if the contractor doesn't agree that it was a mistake.


What is this pipe coming up out of our driveway?

It's a cleanout for the sewer line.  You can shorten it to grade level, but you cannot remove or pave over it.

You'll probably never need it, but if you do,  you'll want quick access to it.


Replacing tongue and groove floorboards: but can't find a match

Given your expressed degree of inexperience, unless you particularly want the learning experience (good, but pay close attention to coming out the far side with all the fingers and eyes you had going into it, and don't forget the earplugs for preserving your hearing, too) your best bet is to take a sample around to a custom millwork shop, which can likely do the job easily.

Aside from the "never used" aspect of your tools, the quaint belief that there's 3-3/4 inches of lumber in a 1x4 is concerning regarding how much of a learning process you have ahead of you for the DIY route. You MIGHT be able to get 3/4" thickness from 4/4 hardwood, but you often need 5/4 to be certain (fortunately you only need the one side to be good, which improves those odds - leaving the backside not completely planed is OK) and you'll definitely need 4-1/2 inch width to have 3-3/4 inches to work from. A "modern 1x4" in S4S condition (surfaced, i.e. planed flat, 4 sides) is typically 3/4, or even 11/16 thick (13/16 if you get a really super supplier) by 3-1/2 wide.

If you choose the learning experience, expect to make some bad boards, especially at first, and again when you get overconfident. That's part of the experience, and the only way to get experienced is to do it, learn from it, and do it some more while remembering what you learned when you screwed it up. But do try really, really, hard to make sure that your learning experiences don't involve trips to the Emergency Room.

Square- section T&G can be difficult to assemble. This is a set of routerbits that cuts a wedge-shaped profile (which has implications for "fixed size" that should be obvious) - I have also seen more rounded profiles, but am having no luck finding a set of router (or more commonly, shaper, but you don't have one) bits to cut those at the moment.

For the limited amount you need, you could just sand sharp edges off the tongues. You could also cut the square tongues to a rounded profile with a cove bit and a fence on the router table.


How to wire GFCI outlet to aluminum wiring?

All no-ox joint compounds are not equal. Penetrox A (mfgr Burndy) is non-flammable grease. 35 years ago I pig-tailed our aluminum wiring with No-Al-Ox and Scotchlok twist on connectors. No-Al-Ox I later found out (and confirmed myself) is flammable. I'm in the slow and gradual process of redoing the pigtails with AlumiConn connectors which are pre-packed with anti-oxidant grease. However, none of my old  connections with No-Al-Ox has shown any evidence of heating or failure.

Unfortunately AlumniConns are not always available except by order. They come in 2-port and 3-port. In some cases the 2-port might be necessary to be able to fit a bulky device and all the connections and wires into the box. Also use #14 wire for the pig-tails if the circuit is 15-A because it folds and fits much easier than the #12 required for 20-A circuits.

The instructions for tightening the screws on the AlumiConn connectors are to use a torque screwdriver (10 in-lb for #12 AL and 15 in-lb for #10 AL and for #14 and #12 CU). There used to be alternative instructions on number of turns after contact with the wire, but I haven't found that lately.


Can you add a separate switch (different light) to a 4 way switch?

I think I connected it to a traveler.

That is the key right there. If you pulled power from a traveler then the new light will only work ~ 1/2 the time, depending on the position of the switches.

Keep in mind with any solution that you may need a larger box to install a 2nd switch due to box fill requirements.

There are 3 possible solutions:

Switch at the source of power

Power typically takes one of two paths:

Panel -> Switch 1 -> Switch 2 -> Switch 3...n -> Lights
Panel -> Lights -> Switch 1 -> Switch 2 -> Switch 3...n

If you have the first setup then you can pull power from the always hot at Switch 1. You can't get it anywhere else because everywhere else is either traveler or switched hot.

If you have the second setup then you can pull power at the light fixture, but that would typically require running a new cable to get to the new switch.

New cable

You can run a new cable from the panel or some other always hot location to the same box that has one of the existing switches. You must pull hot & neutral together - you can't piggyback on another neutral even if it is part of the same circuit (breaker), and you must make sure that the neutrals don't get mixed up in the switch box.

Smart switches

You can replace the existing switches with smart switches that only need one wire instead of two travelers, freeing up a traveler to be used to power another set of switch(es)/lights. That works because smart switches use some variant of power line signaling or wireless signaling to do their job. No new wires to run, but more equipment costs, unless you were considering moving to smart switches anyway.


What's a nifty way to restrict my dog run without re-installing it?

They make clamps that you can very easily install onto the line. They come in a range of sizes to fit most any line size. Here is a picture of what they look like.

You can procure these at most home supply centers and at any decent hardware store. Look for Steel Cable clamps.

There is another type of connector that may be an alternate choice. These, as pictured below, will be found in the electrical supply section of the same types of stores mentioned above. They are typically made of copper and so will not rust. Price will be a little higher though.


How to get heating system working again?

Step zero for the future (you've figured this out by now, but let's state it loud and clear) - extreme cold is when you don't want a setback at all - I shifted my thermostat from its usual automatic to "hold temp" last night (same cold front) for that reason. You can also have a circuit installed that runs the circulator every so often regardless of call for heat as another way to prevent this.

There is normally a valve to fill the system, it will be external to the boiler, and it may well not be automatic (or there may be an automatic and a manual in series, with the manual normally shut.) There is usually but not always an "anti-backflow preventer" as part of the fill system. There may also be something that looks like a pressure regulator, with a toggle on it that can be manually manipulated.

In front is the overflow pipe from the relief valve, behind is the "pressure-regulator-looking" fill valve (the part that's manipulatable is just off the picture, sorry - a toggle you can lift to force some flow) and below that is a manual valve that has to be open to fill the boiler. The entry location is typical (right at the bottom of the boiler) but that's not a given.

Circulator pumps don't do well with air in the system. You will need to replace the water that's leaked out AND remove air from the system at bleeder valves (typically found on elbows in high parts of the system)

There should be a temperature/pressure gauge on the boiler. You typically want 20-30PSI showing on that.


How can I add more insulation to my finished attic walls without trapping moisture

I have done what you asked when I was an insulator for a few years. Unfaced batts were added horizontally. After each run was set and bedded well over the lower insulation, wires were placed at the top of the horizontal run, using screw eyes,    there is a tool that zips these right in that you use on your drill, or staples. Then the next horizontal run was added and wire were added above that run as well. These wires were installed to hold "chicken wire", a light weight, large spaced mesh to keep all the insulation in place. This kept the insulation tight to its surroundings. Using R-19 will help you keep it in place better than R-11 or R-13.


cannot get last radiator on the line to heat up

The water that is being vented or bled out when you open the vent could be coming up either the supply or the return line. You could freeze one line and not the other. Is the circulating pump for the boiler running?


whirlpool washing machine stops after rinse cycle, will not spin, and knob makes a noise

The most common reason for this is a bad lid switch. The drain function is part of the spin cycle, which will not start unless the lid switch closes a circuit to indicate that the lid is closed. If you are reasonably handy you can jumper the switch to prove this out. Since you already replaced the pump (which, by the way, would be the second most common cause of your problem) I would assume you are capable of testing/replacing the lid switch.

The "timer" noise you are hearing from the knob is likely normal, you just never heard it before because you never had to pay close enough attention to it before you had problems.


If you're sure the wall itself is flat and there's no major paint drips/lines on it, you could try another coat on one of the walls and see if that makes a difference. I can't really tell if there is just a difference in sheen on your walls or if there are surface issues.
Also, The less shiny the paint, the less obvious the imperfections when light hits it.
I wouldn't ever try sanding wall paint. Depending on the paint, it can peel off like a sunburn from the heat of the friction if there are drip lines. If there's major surface issues, you could mud over it and sand it down to re-smooth wall. I also personally wouldn't water down the paint.
Just my opinion... we'll see what others say. ;)


Only 1 out of 7 baseboard have heat coming out

You may have an air lock.  Any air in the system will keep the water from flowing. Your system and BB's should have little air vents to vent the air.  Investigate these air vents (sometimes called "bleeder valves") and what they look like on-line and then start looking.  Under your hinged end covers you should find these mini air vents. They usually take a flat blade screw driver to open.  Turn the top slightly to the left.  It should spit and sputter air and water.  Once the air is gone and you only have water coming out close the vent and go to the next one.  Once all of the air is out of the system, the water will move and bring heat to the area. (Look up air vents for hydronic heat systems, sometimes called key vents.) Also turn up the water pressure on you system.  It should be around 10 to 12 psi.  You have to have some water pressure in the system to drive the air out.


A/c makes the lights turn on and off! No Joke!

Which country, Michael? USA, by any chance, judging from your jargon? If so... I think you may have a grounding issue at the panel or at the line coming in from the pole. I've seen similar issues, and issues with lights burning EXTREMELY brightly for a short while before they burn out, from just such grounding issues.

Especially if the AC and the 1st-floor lights are served by breakers near the bottom of the panel, or from a separate subpanel... in the former case, the grounding problem may be inside the panel itself. In the latter case, it may be in the subpanel or the wiring leading to it.


What can I use to protect my walls from marks and scratches?

I have used the Command™ no damage wall hangers with a strip of canvas between 2 of these hangers to prevent scuffing of our entry where my son used to put his snowboard. At the end of the season pull the adhesive and they release with no damage to the wall. At his home now he found some of the strips that hold a wood piece he never takes it down so I don't know if they stay up for multiple years if it will affect the wall but it is a way to protect the wall without drilling.


How can I estimate square footage of fencing for stain?

Sprayers make the job much quicker and easier, however there will be a lot more waste. Take the fence height X the length X two (sides) and you will have an apx of the square feet.  Example  4ft high X 100 feet long X 2 sides = 800 square feet. 800/250= 3.2 gals.

Realistically, if you are careful and try to hit the pickets and not waste as much on the spaces, you may use a slight bit less. Keep in mind, if you are using a stock color, you can return unused/unopened product for a refund at most stores.


What type of subfloor should be used for Engineered hardwood flooring installed on grade concrete slab?

I have had 3/4" hardwood floors placed on Dricore on 2 different jobs. One below grade with a foundation drain system the company I worked for installed. Top of the line, no holds barred water control system. The floor went down a is still performing beautifully. 1 1/2" staples were used so they did not go through the plywood so far to poke holes in the dimple mat. This was tested on a piece to insure this would not happen before the flooring was laid. The other floor was done with wide plank flooring, 5 years ago still working great to this day too. So you would not be going wrong if you went with Dricore. I placed this on the concrete without a vapor barrier in either case, but the floor was sealed.

You may need to check what the staples will do with your thinner engineered flooring. Also, you MAY be able to direct glue the flooring to the concrete slab since it is above grade. Since it is a newer home there should be a below slab vapor barrier. Two good conditions to have, so you don't get moisture rising through the slab.


Identify this screw head (was: Security Torx)

This is a tamper proof torx screw. There are torx bits with a hole in the center that will remove them, if you are bold you can try smacking the center pin with a punch at an angle (small ones usually snap off) and then a standard torx bit can be used to remove it.  Check  online and I bet you can find a tamper proof bit kit for under 15$.


Foundation drainage: try interior first and then exterior?

Without knowing what the interior drainage is now, it's not obvious that upgrading that will be of much benefit. If it's there, and water is coming through the walls, making more of it will probably not impact what's coming through the walls. If it's not actually defective/failed, replacing it seems like a probable waste of time & money.

The exterior solution you suggest is the way to be sure it's done and done, once.

If you want to take a staged approach, you could plan for an eventual (and possibly lower cost) curtain drain spaced away from the house by the width of your "roof", and do your "roof" and regrading, while leaving yourself clear markers for where the edge of the "roof" is so that you could trench and drain just beyond it if needed. Regrading and handling roof runoff correctly are major factors (your pictures do not imply a heavily sloped/hillside site, so odds seem good that most of the water is roof water.)

With a properly functioning drain, full of crushed stone and lined with filter fabric, the elasotmeric coating, et al are pretty much things that you do because you have the foundation exposed, rather than truly essential elements - if the drain is working, there should be no water pressure on the exterior side of the wall. That is the point of the drain. Placing the drain away form the house eliminates exposing the foundation, so you'd not do those things. If you are going to end up trenching by the foundation, you will be redoing all the work put into regrading and "roof."

As for the garage side, drain around the outside of the garage, below basement floor level, too. Assuming the garage is a slab, that one will definitely want to be spaced away from the garage so as not to undermine the soil loading of the slab.


How long should it take to drain a home's water pipes through a faucet?

Yes, all the water will drain from the second floor. It will take awhile because the faucet you're opening probably has an aerator on it which restrict flow and you only have gravity as a flow force. When working on a one story house the pipes, for the most part, are all horizontal so gravity isn't a factor.

You can speed up the draining on two story building by opening more faucets, some on the second floor and ones without aerators.

Don't forget, you have to drain the hot water pipes too.


I’ve had mine for about 2 1/2 years and still seems playable. The manufacturer of my “wood filler” makes a “Thinner” which they claim “Restores solvent based wood fillers to their original consistency.”

BTW, where I live there’s an ‘ol finish carpenter that we all admire how close his filler in the nail holes match the stain of the wood. A few years ago I stuck around on a job and watched him work. After he cut the trim boards, he saved the sawdust and mixed it in the wood putty. Clever.  Now, I think, there is putty that can be stained to match wood.


Some people describe the smell of the additive that they put in natural gas as a "rotten eggs smell". I am not sure if they use such additive in natural gas in Italy but if so then you may want to consider that this smell is the accumulated gas from a gas leak someplace.


If you were riding it when it started surging and the throttle is still work, I would guess that the choke cable either broke or the choke return spring fell off.  The choke plate will be on the air-filter side of the throttle, so look and see if it is flapping around.  If it is, then check the choke cable and return spring.
What is the make and model of the engine?  Do you have any photos?


How do I fix a hole/gap between my shower tile and the dry wall next to it?

Take a paint stir stick from a home improvement center, break it into pieces that will fit behind the patch hole, and pop in a screw to hold it in place, on the side away from the tile. It doesn't have to be rock solid, it's purpose is to keep the drywall patch in place long enough for the  compound to dry. Once the patch is in place (liberally buttered with compound) and dry, you can remove the screw holding the stick in place- the stick may drop off into the wall, but that's no great problem. Patch the screw hole, and you're set.


Will a 12 AWG circuit handle a TIG welder rated at 28 amps when set for 220V?

Close, but not quite

Given the 60% max duty cycle figure you stated for your welder, and a rated primary current of 28A, your circuit ampacity comes out to 28 * 0.78 = 21.84A.  In other words, to run your welder at that 60% duty cycle, you need 10AWG wire with a 25 or 30A breaker; or, you can reduce the duty cycle to avoid overloading the circuit, as going down to 50% duty cycle gets you to just under 20A given the 28A rated primary current of your welder.

(P.S. if you're wondering where in the Code this lives, it's 630.11(A) and the associated Table.)


Does a 1.6 gallon toilet really flush better than a 10 gallon toilet?

As always, government regulations come on fast, with the expectation thqt industry will turn around and comply promptly.   Early on, the low-flow toilets were designed with one objective: save water to meet the looming regulations.  Flushing properly was left by the wayside in their rush to meet the low-flow requirements.

As years went by, and low-flow became the norm, they got out the sharp pencil and really started iterating on the problem of getting them to flush well.  In the interceding years, they've done very good work on that.  I no longer notice flushing problems in modern low-flows.  They've worked the kinks out.

It sounds like yours is an early "compliance model", I would shop for a new toilet.  Read the reviews.

As for "better" that kind of engineering was never really done with the old toilets.  They just did the job with an overwhelming mass of water, "throwing water at the problem", which isn't really engineering, is it.


I have a 36" X 68" kitchen island top of 3/4 granite . It simply rests on the frame work of the island, basically 3/4 plywood on edge with cabinets and drawers like typical kitchen cabinets. There are some cross members of 2" wide 3/4 plywood. The granite is loose and can be moved. I was going to do something more sturdy but have not gotten to it in 25 years. I have stood on it a few times , I keep my feet over the 3/4 on edge plywood. A good finish carpenter made the island so it is very flat. So cabinet type birch plywood should be enough.


Replacing receptacles and found 14 AWG in a 20 amp circuit. Advice?

1) Your first question yes you should downgrade the circuit to 15Amps because the breaker protects the wires and if the breaker is rated for a higher current than the wires in the circuit can handle there is a fire risk.

2) If you were turn the one circuit into two circuits with a 20Amp circuit and a 15 Amp circuit with separate breakers then the outlet could be kept at 20Amps but otherwise no.

3) Maybe they ran out of the larger wire and that is just used what was around.


Can anyone identify this light switch brand?

Your switch and cover plate look very similar to the XLP770 series as shown here:

See here for a distributor web page:

http://www.sparkydirect.com.au/p/935748/switch-1-gang-10amp-250v-white-hpm-xlp7701we.html

See here for manufacturer's Excel Range brochure:

http://www.hpm.com.au/Uploads/HPM%20excel%20range.pdf


How should I hang speakers with a keyhole mounting slot?

However you like, as long as there's a suitably-sized screw head present.

That slot you see is designed to accept a screw with a head (or similar stud) that fits the wide part and a shaft that fits the small part. As long as you meet those requirements you're good.

Whether you facilitate wire hiding is up to you. Low-voltage boxes and plates can work well, or simply a round grommet set into the wall. Be sure there's not a stud where you cut the hole.

I'd consider putting some felt or silicone pads on the back of the speaker to reduce vibration noise and finish damage.


Does "Suitable for use in open fixtures" mean not suitable for closed?

I think the "660W 250V" reference is to some specific part of the fixture - perhaps the socket. I find it highly unlikely that a US residential fully enclosed fixture would be rated (a) for 660W - that is way too much power == heat and (b) 250V - the ratings for lighting fixtures (as opposed to switches, timers, etc.) is typically for 120V.

Based on the info at Home Depot for this bulb, this appears to be designed for "table lamp, sconce, vanity, pendant" - all of them open. I wouldn't put a 40W or 60W (and this is in between) bulb into a totally enclosed fixture like you describe - that just does not sound like a good idea. In a very quick read of the page, I didn't see a reference to a full manual, but it sounds like "open" is code for "not closed".

In any case, 43W dimmable incandescent makes no sense at all. Incandescent bulbs are the cheapest in up-front cost. But it doesn't cost much these days to get dimmable LEDs. For example, these Cree bulbs also from Home Depot cost a little more but give you:

MUCH lower power consumption - 10W vs. 43W
MUCH longer life
More light - 815 lumens vs. 600 lumens

and specifically list enclosed fixtures.

About the only scenario (a bit of a stretch) where it would still make sense to worry only about the up-front cost and not about energy cost or replacement cost (both vastly lower with decent LED bulbs than with incandescent bulbs - lower energy costs and fewer replacements) is a builder who wants to put in everything as cheap as possible for profit. (And even then, putting LED bulbs everywhere would let the builder advertise the "energy efficient home").


Can I use the tabs to chain 15A outlets on a 20A circuit?

Yes it is sufficient.
A 15A receptacle is designed such that an appliance with a 20A plug should not be able to plug into it.  This means that at most under normal operating conditions of a 15A appliance, that the receptacle itself will only draw 15A.  If the circuit shorts then the breaker will kick at 20A however.
The tab of a 15A receptacle is designed to handle a 20A load.
EDIT for clarification above: A duplex 15A receptacle contains a tab that connects the hot lead to the hot load.  This allows the receptacle to carry the load of another outlet by wiring the lead of Outlet(2) to the load of Receptacle(1).  When you break off this hot tab then you are specifically wiring for a switch to control only of the receptacles of the outlet, or you are specifically wiring for each receptacle to have its own circuit on a shared neutral.  For two circuits to be wired to a single receptacle on a shared neutral, then you need to ensure that the breakers are on different service legs or you risk overloading the neutral.  If you also break the neutral tab then you are wiring the receptacle to have two separate circuits each with its own dedicated neutral.  These should be considered fringe cases for residential so it is probably best not to break the tabs if not needed so as to avoid confusing future DIY'ers and licensed electricians.  Every time a DIY'er or electrician gets confused then they are potentially risking themselves.
The NEC states that this is acceptable as long as:

The wire is 12 AWG sized for a 20A circuit

There is more than one receptacle on the circuit.

It is important to note that under no circumstances should you install a single 15A receptacle onto a dedicated 20A circuit.  This is against code.

210.21(B) Receptacles (1) Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit. A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit.
(3) Receptacle Ratings. Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3), or where larger than 50 amperes, the receptacle rating shall not be less than the branch-circuit rating.

Table:
Circuit Rating (Amperes)
Receptacle Rating
(Amperes)
15 Not over 15
20 15 or 20
30 30
40 40 or 50
50 50

In conclusion, a standard 15A receptacle that one would buy in your hardware store is quality tested and approved to comply with all NEC codes to be legally sold in the United States.  If the tab couldn't handle a 20A load without overheating then they would call this out specifically.


How should I wire a ceiling fan remote where two switches are used to control the fixture?

Start by turning off the power at the breaker, and verifying it's off with a non-contact voltage tester.
Connect all the bare or green grounding conductors together.
Connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire on the input side of the remote receiver module and the white wire in the fan.
Connect the black wire from the ceiling to the black wire on the input side of the remote receiver module.
Connect the blue wire from the output side of the remote receiver module to the blue wire in the fan.
Connect the red wire from the ceiling to the black wire in the fan.
Cap off the black and white wire from the output side of the remote receiver module.

Now when one switch is on, the remote will control the light. The other switch will turn the fan on and off. You'll end up with something like this.

Alternatively, you could wire it like this.

This way the remote module will control the fan (when the switch is in the ON position), and the other switch will control the light.
This answer assumes the black wire controls the fan, while the blue controls the light kit on the fan. Check the documentation that came with the fixture, for proper wiring instructions.


Should be no problem, as long as the box and everything else is installed according to code. Since it's in the bathroom, GFCI protection is required.


What is this hollow box made of steel hanging on the ceiling?

That's an electrical junction box. Likely for a ceiling light, but could also be for a ceiling fan, smoke detector, or anything else mounted on the ceiling that needs power attached.


What is this balloon with "eyes" printed on it, hanging from the eave on this house?

That is a balloon bird repellent device. It is designed to mimic the appearance of an owl to scare away smaller birds and prevent them from building nests in the eaves, or to prevent them from flying into windows. See https://www.amazon.com/Balloon-Bird-Repellent-Effective-Solution/dp/B01DAFTNEU


Wiring the hot black wire and neutral white to each light will allow there sensors to control the lights for each fixture. Make sure the sensors are not pointed in the direction of the other light or there may be enough light from 1 fixture to turn the 2nd fixture off.


Can I replace an air exchanger with a heat pump?

I'm not sure if there are versions of heat pumps that have the compressor and evaporator both outside, but mine has the compressor outside and the evaporator/air handler inside, which is about the same size as the air exchanger you have in the picture. So if you install a system similar to mine, you won't have any space savings.

On another note, heat pumps are only really usefull in areas that don't have harsh winters. Their optimal range for heating is 40°-55°F, and they don't perform efficiently in colder climates.

I'd talk to a local HVAC installer to see what type of system is best suited for your climate if you're dead set on changing the type of system you have installed.

More on Wikipedia


Can I integrate my over-the-range microwave hood's lights with my under cabinet lights?

Electrically speaking there is no reason why you can't hook up those lights. But the reason I wouldn't has to do with the warranty of the microwave, and let's suppose you try and connect them up and something gets lost or broken or even worse now the microwave doesn't work. No manufacturer is going to take that microwave back and service it once it has been tampered with. You might be better off just installing a strip of lights attached to your existing under counter lights and be done with it.


I really hate to say this, but your suspected problem is probably way beyond the capabilities of a DIYer. If you are still having problems, it may be time to call in a pro. I have not seen any good answers to this kind of question here on the Stack. I don't think we really have a HVAC expert here.  Bite the bullet, find a really competent tech with the right diagnostic tools to find and fix your problem. What you are losing in comfort, fuel effiency , and potential fuel costs might be more than the bill from a proper repair. You may have an equipment malfunction and only putting off the inevitable.


Based on the overall condition of this outside corner:

The peeling of the joint compound appears caused by the corner being repeatedly hit.

The corner bead does not appear particularly damaged, deformed, or detached. One could drive a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" drywall screw through it without pre-drilling (a 10d nail would be sufficient to create a "starter hole", if necessary).

There's not much point in making repairs on this corner unless something is done to prevent further damage (ie. install plastic/rubber baseboard and plastic/metal corner guards).


New bathroom counters and sinks, what is the proper way to handle the difference in supply line length

You typically use braided steel supply lines to connect the sink to your supply.

You can get anything from a few inches long to a couple feet long.


How to stop a water leak through concrete?

Several parts of your question can't be answered here, as they deal with costs with contractors.  That said, a broken pipe would usually have water flow down, after all, water seeks its own level.  If a drain pipe is broken in some way that clogs it, the water might come back up the drains.

As to what you can do, that depends on how big of a bite you're willing to take on.  If you want to remove a shower, it can be done.  Tearing up a floor isn't complicated, either.  Putting replacements in is a little more difficult, but there are books and websites and youtube videos for any issue you face.  The local hardware shop should be able to give you an idea of what you need and how it goes together when you get to that point.  Your local code office can also tell you what they want to see as far as doing the job properly to code.

Goes without saying, but this is work that generally will require a building permit and probably an inspection.


Toilet Tank slow leak, have all new parts, tried all troubleshooting...help!

If your tank is constantly leaking water, but you've not found it anywhere, then it is nigh on certain that it's going into the toilet bowl. Tester101's tip of putting food colouring into the tank and seeing if it appears in the bowl will likely confirm this.

The issue is then to find exactly where the leak is. Either your flapper isn't closing properly, there's a leaky joint where the overflow pipe connects (just below the flapper), or the seal between the flapper apparatus and the tank isn't watertight.

I would hazard a guess at it being the seal between the flapper apparatus and the tank, probably due to either under-tightening or over-tightening when installing the new flush. Over-tightening is perhaps the more likely - it shouldn't be tightened too much or you will distort the rubber seal.


With a 1500 sq ft home a 2.5 ton should get it nice and cool.
Things that may affect your ability to cool, ducting not insulated, home not insulated, extreme heat (I don’t consider 90 extreme)

You did not state what the unit did cool to. Without this we cannot calculate the delta to tell if a larger unit would work for your home.
The tonnage of a unit is how much it will cool the Seer is the efficiency higher seer less monthly electricity demands.

I have installed larger evaporators in the past when I knew the owner was going too small. The evaporators can handle a range of cooling where the compressor and condenser are usually 1 unit (the outside unit).

I would check with your installer is this unit have a dual speed or variable speed fan that is not being turned on? I have seen ac units air handlers on low speed and they did not cool as well. For a friend I installed a new controller and my friend thought I put a new system in it worked so much better (~150$ took care of him)

So there are possibly things that could improve the performance of your existing system insulation and possibly different fan speeds both of these would be much cheaper than a new compressor / condenser and possibly a evaporator if yours is not large enough to handle a bigger compressor.


How do I build a square window frame in an off-square opening?

If it's out of square by less than a quarter to a half inch or so you can probably just use shims to square it up.


Precautions in connecting high voltage source to a relay?

the Idea you have is good , but the components although "rated" for 10 amps really will not hold up long at that level. I usually only load these small relays at 50% and as low as 10% if it has a short cycle time. the problem is contacts in the mechanicial ones will soon stick and overheat your hot plate , The electronic ones the solid state relays internally short untill the junction is blown apart but usually dammaging the divice they are driving.
as for plastic it melts, maybe a plastic liner in a metal box or standoffs in metal but use caution it will probably work for a while but when it fails thats when things get ugly


I have to say that I am no fan of cordless framer nailers. I have had two different ones, a Porter Cable and a Pasload. Both were gas fired. The PC was a disaster. Had lots of problems with the propane cells seating properly and nails jamming.  Got the Pasload, worked OK, but slow and the smell was so bad that I only used it outdoors.  The gas cells are expensive also.  After two days on a job, I went back to my trusty Bostich 88 and ran the compressor off a gen set. The other thing I hated was that it could not shoot 10d wire collated nails that I use in my other air framers. Those plastic bits flying at your face sting and you have to reload much more often. Absolutely hate plastic collated nails!

To be honest, I have not tried one of the new battery operated models yet. For framing, I like the largest, thickest nail.(3 1/4") and most cordless ones don't shoot the same larger nails I use in my Bostich.

Since your projects are at home and you already have a 135# compressor, I really think you will get a lot more nailer for the $$$ if you stick with a Bostich 88 mag or similar. You will be able to shoot 4d to 10d nails. The unit itself is much lighter, cheaper and very dependable.

For what you pay for a good cordless, you could own a good framer, 16ga finish and 18ga brad gun, thus having the right tool for every nailing job.

I have to say however, a good cordless finish gun is wicked handy and the battery models have plenty of power, but this humble carpenter is not sold on cordless framers.


Manufactured home bathtub/shower wall installation

I have replaced dozens of older tub/shower units with nice fiberglass tubs with a three piece matching/interlocking surround wall kits. Since getting a one piece unit into old construction is usually impossible, these modular units work well. The better units are sturdy and will adapt well in situations where the walls are not perfect. Since the wall units interlock and overlap the tub flange, leaking is rarely a problem. The costs of these units run from about $500 to $800. I have good results with Kohler and American Standard units. Avoid the cheap units that have non-locking wall sides and require a lot of sealants and flimsy corner trims. This is not an easy DIY project for someone without experience. The process will include plumbing skills, leveling the tub unit and shimming the walls if the existing wall framing is really bad.  Sometimes it is necessary to remove existing wall sheathing (drywall etc) and attach tub and sides to studs, then use moisture/mold resist drywall to recover the walls.


How do I widen an existing asphalt driveway with crushed gravel?

3/4 minus (21AA in US Midwest) is perfect for this
application.

Hope you have some college kids around, that's nearly 2 cubic yards!

I would overdig another 6" to be able to place an edging to retain the gravel and make a clean edge.

Place the gravel in 2" "lifts" (lay down 2") and then compact with a plate vibrator.  Repeat twice. Enjoy!

6"  compacted will be quite solid and stable.

Update

This edging can be backfilled with dirt to grow grass.  Just place it when you are 2 1/2" from the top.  Its usually staked with landscape nails every 2 ft, but I'd do it every foot.  I know you're not using pavers, but this will retain the edge of the gravel.  You don't have to do anything with the asphalt edge, unless it is rolled over unevenly, in which case you can cut it with a masonary blade in a circular saw.


How do I paint over marble chip plaster?

I think you'd have to plaster that before painting it. I'd give it a few months if you haven't just in case it grows on you - it's an expensive and unique finish, and it's going to be expensive to change, with no way to go back.


Here in Australia you'd probably use a surface mounting block over the top and then an IP rated outlet.

Mounting block is bigger than a round j-box. May need to seal between block and wall and then you're done.

Along these lines:

Source: http://updates.clipsal.com/assets/images/products/A00047211.PNG

Not sure whats available and standards in the US but if surface mounted over the top and larger, shouldn't be an issue but uglier than flushed.

May be able to drill/chase in a large wall box, however it's quite a bit of work.


Most affordable/quick method to block light through windows?

Cardboard,

and tape.

Probably the cheapest option, as you can probably acquire the cardboard for free.


Tenant Multi-Family Meter Box Amp and Wire Requirements

The box you linked is the wrong style

Your first issue is that the "duplex box" (meter-pack) you linked uses the wrong style of metering, so it stands a snowball's chance in hell of being acceptable to SMUD.  In particular, that box uses a ringless configuration where the cover holds the meter in place, while SMUD, being an EUSERC utility, requires ring style metering hardware, where the meter is inserted with the cover already installed and a sealing ring is then used to attach the meter to the cover.

Fortunately, Siemens makes a similar box with the correct metering setup, namely the WEP4212.  This is a 400A box with 2 200A ring-style meter positions and an EUSERC-style utility wiring compartment, as well as the correct approvals for use in an area served by an EUSERC utility, like SMUD.

Fat aluminum is your friend here

Whether you go with individual wires in conduit or with cables (SER for the main house and direct bury quadplex for the ADU, presuming the meter-pack will live on the outside of the main house), you'll want to use aluminum wire here; 4/0 will suffice for a 200A feeder to a dwelling unit, since I doubt that you'll want any more than that for either the main house or the ADU, given the size of the buildings in question.  (The main house load calculations come out at around 120A or so, depending on how much current the air conditioner pulls, so a 200A feeder provides ample room for expansion.)

Go big or go home!

When it comes to putting in the panels for the individual buildings, scrimping on spaces is penny-wise and quite pound foolish, as adding a few spaces now is far cheaper than replacing an entire panel down the road.  I would go with a minimum of a 42-space, 200A panel for each unit here, preferably of a type convertible between main breaker and main lug as you'll probably need a main breaker on one panel and main lugs on the other, depending on where the meter-pack is located in this setup.  Of course, if you can get a 54-space or 60-space panel for a reasonable price, I would spring for it in a heartbeat, as I have not heard a single complaint from someone about having too many spaces in their electrical panel!

As to that (future) solar setup...

Since your solar power will be entirely net-metered by the ADU's meter, you'll need to have all your solar panels mounted on the ADU and wired back to its panel. This is needed to keep the inverter output branch circuits from violating the intent of NEC 210.25.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

There is one more matter to pay attention to when installing this, and that is that you (or your electrician) will need to use an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver to correctly make up the lug connections on the various pieces of electrical equipment here.  This is required by 2017 NEC 110.14(D), and is a good idea anyway to keep your electrical system from developing a case of the loose lugnuts.


You don't need a fuse here

The solar disconnect is only needed so the utility can shut down your solar system if it goes awry without having to fumble around in your breaker box or incur the risks of pulling your meter "hot".  As a result, a non-fused disconnect is A-OK here, as the breaker in the panel + the inherent limits of the solar source will protect the wiring from short-circuit or overcurrent.


Would connecting an ungrounded cable to a new grounded cable in a box violate code?

The junction box must remain accessible, but I've a hunch you know that, as a good sense of rules and practices seems evident.

Yes, just ground the metal box.  I would use a #10 pigtail to the 10-32 ground screw hole on the box.  They sell adorable green screws for that purpose.

The stove is grandfathered, so it continues to be legal without a ground.  I didn't say "safe".  As such, I strongly encourage you to ground the oven at this time.  No need to fish a 6/3+gnd cable on that impossible route, you only need to route a bare #10 ground wire via any route. It does not even need to reach this box or the panel.  It will suffice to reach anywhere with a #10 or larger ground wire back to the panel, or metal conduit to the panel, or anywhere on the grounding electrode system (the wires from the panel to your water pipe or ground rods).

An equally effective (but $90) alternative is to fit a 2-pole GFCI breaker on the oven circuit, and jumper the oven as if it was grounded, i.e. Its internal neutral-ground jumper pulled. However, this method brings with it the chance of nuisance trips.


Difference in protection between GFCI breaker vs receptacle?

GFCI breakers provide better protection.  GFCI outlets have unprotected exposed conductors behind the faceplate, they are going into the terminals called "line".

The inspector may be concerned with ease of inspection, i.e. quickly determining that the kitchen has the required equipment.  GFCI outlets make that easy.

Speaking or that, there are labeling requirements which also make that easy.  If it isn't perfectly obvious by the "test" and "reset" buttons, any GFCI protected outlet must have a label saying "GFCI protected". He would be correct to flunk you on that.


What you have planned to build will take a lot of sanding. If you have a random orbit sander and will be using a lot of solid stock, experiment with your stain samples. Let me say this first, if you sand everything out getting rid of the planer marks (washboarding) the quality of your finish will be remarkably better. Secondly, sanded wood takes stain differently than planed wood, usually it takes it darker than planed wood. Thirdly veneer plywood takes stain differently than solid wood but should only need a light sanding by hand, no machines, since the veneer is so thin, and always in the direction of the grain. Soft sanding blocks are handy here.

This is what you need to experiment with on your samples. Start with 100G sandpaper, and run the sander over your stain sample on one side. If it removes the stain/washboarding fairly quickly. It is a good start, if not, you may need to start with 80G. Find the finest sandpaper that gets the job done of removing the washboarding, the fewer steps it takes to get it ready for staining/dying. I usually sand to 120G when finishing by hand, but with machine sanding, I would go a bit finer. Perhaps up to 180 or 220G. But that is what the samples are about. You have 4 sides to work with, before you need to redo your samples. More pointers later on that if needed.

When staining oak, the hard and soft grain becomes more pronounced, with dyes, the color takes more consistently across the face, lessening the difference from soft to hard grain. If each pass with the sander is not complete, it will show marks from the last grit of sandpaper. Be certain is is sanded thoroughly. There are tricks to confirm that.

IMO, I don't think you blotching was caused by "bleed out" although with oak it happens in a heartbeat with oil based stains, had it happen too many times. For that checking the surface after a while can keep this in check, and do not stain or dye in the sunlight. Alcohol based dye may bleed back, but because of its properties and the porosity of oak it will soak in deeper. Alcohl compared to oil. Still, whenever applying dye, apply enough to achieve uniform color, and wipe off the excess immediately and wipe back over the entire surface. If you have panels, consider dying them first and first coat sealer over that. This will fix the issue when the wood moves, sometimes the unstained wood moves from behind the rails and shows raw wood. This way you can cover the smaller parts easier without the dye setting on the surface too long for trying to cover such a large area.

One tip, when sanding narrow pieces, a machine sander will have a tendency to roll off one edge or the other, not keeping the surface flat. Before you start, set up a flat area where you can get all around it, and can hold 3,4 or 5 pieces of your narrow material, and sand them all at one time. Under a random orbit sander, they may act like a bunch of cats, running off in all directions, but set thin strip around the wood you are sanding to keep them corralled. Nothing fancy, doesn't need to be tight, just something simple to take things out, and set more back in. On the sides only, may do what you need.

Here's a few pics of my entertainment center/bookshelves I made of oak.


Can I mix joint compounds with different setting times to get a custom setting time?

The short answer is yes.  I have done this but not for the reasons you have stated.  I just had some leftovers and wanted to use them.  As long as your mixing agent - water - is the same then mix away.  Note that other than trial and error you are looking at a setting time between 45 mins to 210 mins - even if you mixed 50/50.


Mystery of misbehaving hose bibs and missing shutoffs

The hose-bib on the west side of the house is now working. I'm not 100% certain why or how, but it seems likely that @Tyson was on the right track with his obstruction theory.

I went outside this morning with some old coat hanger wire to try probing the bib for obstructions (like the Mud Dauber wasp nest suggested by Tyson).  However, before using the wire, I removed the divider from the bib, checked it for obstructions without finding any, then felt around the inside of the bib with a finger, dislodging some crusty material (a bit like limescale) with an accompanying trickle of water.  When I then turned on the bib, I got normal flow.

The only odd thing is -- I performed exactly these same steps when troubleshooting after the problem first occurred on Friday, but with no effect.

But hey, I'll take it.  Problem solved for now -- without a potentially embarrassing, unneeded service call to a plumber.  I'll give whoever ends up buying Dad's place a heads up in the form of a "things to keep an eye on" list.

Thanks again to everyone.


How do I realign copper water pipes after cutting?

The safest way to bend a copper pipe is to use a pipe bending spring. They come in sizes to fit the diameter your pipe so you'll need two - one for each type of pipe. The spring stops the pipe kinking by supplying support to the inner part of the bend.

Simply slide the spring up the pipe, bend it and then work the spring out.


Range manual asks for 40A while label states 26.5A

A 40 amp breaker is not oversized for #8 wire. It is just right.

The National Electrical Code requires a minimum of a 40 amp circuit for ranges of 8 3/4 KW or greater.

Here is the pertinent part of the Code:

  210.19(A)(3) Household Ranges and Cooking Appliances.  Branch-circuit conductors supplying household ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and other household cooking appliances shall have an ampacity not less than the rating of the branch circuit and not less than the maximum load to be served. For ranges of 8 3∕4 kW or more rating, the minimum branch-circuit rating shall be 40 amperes.

The label on your range would indicate it only draws 6.3KW which could be fed by a 30 amp circuit but if the manufacturer is recommending a 40 amp circuit you should follow that recommendation.

Besides the next range you buy may need more power.


Should I replace carpet over ancient linoleum that might contain asbestos?

You should be able to remove the carpet and padding without disturbing the tile.  Then you can install a floating laminate wood floor without any concern.

A hardwood floor that requires nailing would be a bigger concern.


Type of glue for plastic/metal, not too fast, cannot press surfaces together

JB weld is one of the best epoxies I've used. It's specially good for multiple surfaces. When gluing plastics, you want to roughen up the surface so the glue adheres to it better. If the metal is smooth, roughen it up too with some emery paper before gluing.


How can I prevent clogs in a section of pipe with reverse slope due to soil settling?

The best solution here is prevention.  Determine where the debris that is clogging your drain is coming from and stop it from getting into the pipe to begin with.


At the ground, you're mostly concerned with keeping the posts located. You don't want bumps to slide them around. A simple steel pin or bolt in the concrete is adequate. If you like, use a short stack of washers to keep the wood (mostly) out of contact with the concrete to improve longevity.

At the top, I'd use 1/2" lag screws, countersunk and piloted. Two at each joint and penetrating 4-5" into the posts should do. You'll want to cap or plug the bores to prevent water accumulation and rot.

All hardware should be stainless or galvanized, in case it's not obvious.


Can a mini-widespread 3-hole sink faucet with 4-inch spread be replaced by centerset or widespread?

The problem with a traditional widespread faucet would normally be the sheer physical size. You will probably find that the girth of the spout where it meets the deck will interfere with the handle escutcheons/trim. However, if you find one that fits there should not be a problem.
Centerset lavs are typically fine to use where a mini-widespread was installed. In fact, the mini-widespreads are a (relatively) new type of product to give consumers a more decorative option for sinks originally designed for the formerly "standard" 4" centerset lav.


You could try the following to determine the gauge

Cut the power off
Open the connection and pull a wire off
Use a wire stripper and find the largest hole it fits in

As to the rest of the question...

25 amps is nuts. You have 18 amps so a 20 amp breaker on 12 gauge wire should be sufficient. My bet is that, since you have a 15 amp breaker, that your wire is 14 gauge (it's pretty rare to find higher gauge wire on a lower amp circuit like that). When in doubt, run new wire. It's not worth it to try and guess. Know that your setup is sufficient.

I would suggest dropping new 10 gauge wire (more than you need in case you ever add anything else, like a Polaris, although you'll probably want a subpanel at that point) and adding a 20 amp breaker. If you're burying it, make sure it's UF and preferably in conduit. Take the existing wire and stick it in a box with a GFCI and make it an outlet.


How do I choose the correct size pump and pressure tank?

Two factors matter: flow rate and pressure. Pressure is determined by friction loss and elevation adjustment. Since the tank and house are at the same elevation, we don't need to account for that. We do need to account for your friction loss, though. To do that, we need to know what your pipe diameter, length, and flow rate.

We start with flow rate because the amount of water flowing through a pipe determines its friction loss. That's what we size the pipe from. Your flow rate should be based on maximum flow: everything that could possibly ever run at one time. Your shower, dishwasher, washing machine, somebody washing their hands, etc. There's no uniform minimum standard for that, so check the fixtures around your building to find out how muh they would draw.

According to a plumbing design guide from Michigan, this can vary from 7 gpm for one bathroom to 17 gpm for a 3-4 bathroom residence. After you've determined the flow rate, you must select a desired pressure for the house inlet pressure.

If your pump is able to fully supply your house without the aid of a tank (sufficient flow at operating pressure), then your only consideration for tank size is the cycle time of the pump. For smaller pumps, you want your tank to provide at least 2 minutes of water. For larger pumps, you may desire a higher cycle time. There is no harm in a larger tank size.

If your pump isn't able to provide that level service, then you'll need to size your tank to provide supply for a period of time. Remember that pump supply in gpm is also related to pressure. The more pressure the pump needs to provide, the less flow it will have. Calculate your pump flow based on the pressure needed to charge the tanks.

The ultimate calculation is (maximum flow * maximum minutes) > (tank capacity / minutes + pump capacity * minutes). You can use any combination of tank and pump capacity as long as the tank + pump capacity meets your demand needs. A 1 gpm pump and a pressure tank that can supply 300 gallons could probably hold you over just as well as a 14 gpm pump and 28 gallons of supply tank. Remember again that supply is not equal to full capacity: you only have supply if it is higher than your necessary pressure. Your goal is to find a combination that is most cost effective.

For another good resource related to tanks, see Flotec's pre-charged pressure tank FAQs.

By the way, since you gain 1 psi for every 2.31 feet of elevation gain (referred to for some reason as "feet of head"), you can get a lot of "free" tank supply pressure by putting your tank at a higher elevation, though that will increase your pump charging pressure.

For absolute luxury, keep your entire supply system able to supply above your desired household pressure and slap a pressure reducing valve on the supply line just before it reaches the first appliances. 60 psi is the ideal dream coming out of your pressure valve (fantastic showers!), but pressure does cost in terms of electric usage for lower pump capacity because, again, higher pressure means lower flow. Most systems are designed to start charging at 40, 30, or 20 psi, though. Note how the pressure corresponds to the amount of water that can be supplied in this example tank.


If you watch the back of the opener starting at around :54 in the video, you'll notice that the LED indicator flashes 4 times.  For Craftsman openers, this is almost always the code for an issue with the interrupt sensors.  Make sure that they are clean and getting power (no wire breaks, etc.), and then follow the instructions in the owners manual for aligning them.  If you don't have a copy of the manual, get the model number off of the opener and check to see if they have a .pdf at the manufacturer's website (www.searspartsdirect.com).


Ok Walker, here's the scoop. beg, borrow or rent two extension ladders, ladder jacks and a walking pick. (wide plank that fits into ladder jacks). This will form a stable staging a few of feet below the roof soffit. Calculate the length of the roof and adjust your roof ladder accordingly. TIE OFF the rungs of the roof ladder, if using an extension ladder, so it cannot disconnect from the adjustable height locking hooks. Lean it up against your pick, climb up on the pick and carefully drag the roof ladder up and over the pick to the roof. The other advantage of using a pick is that you can work along several feet of the roof, moving your roof ladder as you go.  Most picks are 10 to 18 feet in length and can be equipped with a safety railing.  Check out your local rental center.  Be Safe.

Pics and procedures for using ladder jacks and staging (picks): http://www.ehow.com/about_5046018_ladder-jack.html


looking for a timer to open and close a circuit

All timers act like switches, that open and close the circuit based on time.  The voltage rating is typically based on the maximum voltage that can be switched, not the voltage that must be  switched.

If you're looking at timers that plug into a receptacle, those are designed to turn lamps and such on/off.  That's not the type of timer you want.

You'll want a device that separates the power circuit, from the circuit being controlled.


Which stud should I mount to if they are different widths?

The 3.5" studs are either doubled-up 2x4s, or a sideways 2x4. I would use the 2" studs to mount it on because if the 3.5" studs are sideways, they will be more likely to bow out under load, and a regular 2x4 is more than strong enough to hold body weight.


I had a similar situation. My wife and I bought a property with an old, poorly remodeled house and another newer house (mid-80s) with a shared well. I built a "pump house" that housed not only the pressure tank, but water softeners for both houses as well (no pun intended!). I also terminated various utilities (electric, phone, cable) at the pump house with a 200 amp generator transfer switch to supply one of the panels on my new home from the generator that was also housed just outsize the pump house. I call it my personal PUD!  The pump house is insulated and has never had any freezing issues (Western Washington State, so Pretty mild climate).   I'd suggest good insulation on your pump house and a small electric heater to keep temps over about 35 degrees. I think a gas heater would be overkill and more expensive than needed. A decent sized pressurized water tank holds a great deal of thermal mass and would likely keep the temps pretty even.  But if needed the electric could kick on for a bit to keep temps above freezing.


Get some felt weather stripping, the "fuzzy material". It comes in many thicknesses at your home stores. It has a self adhesive strip that you can fasten to the frame opposite the fuzzy material on the window. So you'll have fuzzy material rubbing against fuzzy material. That should seal the gap and give you a warm and fuzzy feeling... Good luck.


You can't rely on the primary-side circuit breaker to detect all faults that can occur on the secondary side. You need to install separate protection for the secondary, appropriate to its ratings.


Bathroom light switch, fan switch & GFI outlet under same wall cover plate

First replace your GFCI outlet. It is definitely malfunctioning. (As a side, I would also recommend that you replace both switches, especially if they are more than 10 years old.
Check to see if your hair dryer still causes the breaker to fail. If not, then you are good to go. If the breaker does fail then a) it is overloaded or b) it needs to be replaced.
Determine all the "loads," i.e. things plugged in or turned on that are controlled by the breaker. You do this by adding all the watt ratings and dividing the sum by the voltage in the circuit. (If you don't understand what I'm saying here, then you should really call an electrician.)
If your load answer is greater than the rating of the breaker, then you have too many things connected to that breaker's circuit. See if you can plug some of those items into outlets on another circuit breaker. If not, can you turn some off while you use your hair dryer?
If the load is less than the breaker rating then you need to replace the breaker. This may be something you would want a professional to do.
Disclaimer: I am a home repair specialist with an engineering degree. I have a good amount of experience with home electrical systems. However, I am not a licensed electrician and do not claim to be.


Can I use a 1 1/2 vent for a toilet (3" drain) in CA (not a went vent, no other fixtures on it)?

In California, which is based on UPC, a 1-1/2" vent, properly installed, can vent a 3" toilet drain.

However, local codes can vary, so it's always a good idea to draw a diagram and get a permit, so they can inform you of any special rules or anything you may have missed.


How to fix armoire to bent wall and mask the gap behind it?

Your plan is fine (and exactly what I'd do). Most furniture has a small gap behind it anyway, so it shouldn't look bad.

The only other alternatives that won't look odd would be to actually shape the cabinet to fit the wall--the side panels and top would need to extend back at an angle. Trying to conceal the gap with trim boards might just draw attention to the matter.

If you wanted to, you could wrap the entire back perimeter with coordinating trim in whatever manner suits the style of the piece.


Copper water water line is out of round slightly

I do not think that teflon tape will help with an out of round tube in a compression fitting. My first thought would be to try to restore the tube to roundness by proper use of Vise-Grips with a rag to prevent scoring of the sealing ring. There is a die clamp device designed for gripping tubing to make a flare in the end. This die might be used to restore the tubing to roundness. You might have to remove the ring seal and put on a new one after truing the end of the tubing.

But be prepared to cut off the out of round end and join a fresh piece of good tubing.


If the only paths in the circuit were those shown in your diagram, then your switch would turn off the light (but leave it in an unsafe condition where you could be shocked by touching the base of the bulb while changing it). Moving the switch to the hot side of the switch loop would make the wiring much safer.

BUT. This is not the only problem you have. The symptom you describe proves that there is another path from the light's neutral to the breaker-box's neutral. The principal danger to you, and to any future maintainer, is that you don't know where this path is. This means that you're remodeling your wiring without fully understanding it first.

I know it can be very difficult to analyze the wiring circuits in an old house.1 You have to open practically every j-box and even remove some wire nuts and separate the wires. You need to test voltage with the power on and check continuity with the power off, and get out of breath running back and forth to the breaker box.

You can't just give up and wire it the best way you can. You must trace everything until you know where it all goes, or in the case of the stuff you already ripped out, where it all went. You can't "ignore the other 3 that come into the ceiling box", because you don't know which of them should be left connected to each other and which should be capped off.

If you don't have the patience to trace all the old wiring, then you should hire a professional electrician to do it. Be aware, though, that this will be expensive -- unless you hire a guy who also doesn't have the patience to trace all the old wiring.

1. Believe me, I know. My house was built in 1891 and still contains some inaccessible knob-and-tube wiring that was originally installed for Edison direct current service.


This is a 'Glue Chipped' glass rather than a pattern.  Each pane of glue chipped glass is effectively unique due to the process.  First the glass surface is sandblasted.  Then glue is applied, which adheres to the sandblasted surface.  When the glue is removed it pulls away some of the glass surface leaving a uniquely 'chipped' finish.  Double chipped glass undergoes the procedure twice but requires a thicker glass because chipping will obviously weaken the strength.
Glue Chipping was often used to create signage for shops and bars by using a pattern stencil during sandblasting.  Geometric designs were also created this way.

Some more examples and info on my blog here - (I / we dont sell old glass btw, its content only, and my own research)   https://sashwindowspecialist.com/blog/usa-old-textured-window-glass-id/
Simon


First time welding - how to connect this steel sheet and tube better?

Because you're just piddling globs of molten welding rod on top of the steel.  That's not welding, that's metal deposition.  You need to read more on how to weld and get more practice, because the concept hasn't really (forgive the pun) penetrated.

Also, it helps to grind or media blast the mill scale and other contaminants off the area you're welding.


How can I replace a single switch with two switches?

I am assuming that the upper wire is the cable that goes to the ceiling where the fan/light is to be installed. If so, you should have a red wire in the ceiling box that is unused and probably capped with a wire nut.

Your description of the switch box seems a little off.  If all three black wires were connected together, what wires go to the switch?

More than likely, one of the lower black wires is the hot source, and it is connected to the other lower black to power another box, and is also connected to the existing switch.  The upper black was probably also connected to the switch asn was hot when the switch is on and not hot (open) when the switch is off.  The whites are all neutrals and all should be connected to each other (and not to the switch).

You can install a double switch or two separate switches in the box to separately control the fan and light.  The lower hot black goes to the common on a double switch or one pole on each of the two switches. The upper black goes to the other side of the first switch and the upper red goes to the other side of the second switch.  Effectively, these switches share an "in" but have separate "outs".

In the switch box, all of the whites (neutrals) continue to be connected.

At the ceiling box, the white goes to white, the black goes to the wire for either fan or light, and the red goes to the other. The fan wire colors may vary, but the instructions should indicate which is which.

You make no mention of green or bare wire (ground). In a modern, properly wired system, there also should be these, both from each cable and at the fan. Ground wires are connected together and to the base of devices, switches and metal boxes or fixtures. If they are present, connect them.  If they are not, you have an ungrounded system that poses a bit of risk if a device is damaged or shorts out.