Building stairs: do I just put finished treads and risers on top of stringers? or do I use a layer of OSB first?

OSB is used for one of two reasons in my area:

just builder's grade prepackaged stairs.  I can order a set of stairs for a couple hundred and have them installed in a basement in 2 hours by getting OSB (I never do this but could).
in a cheaply built home these could be used as is and carpeted.

I would personally never leave the OSB under the treads unless it would seriously mess something else up.  The caveat is if you are using MDF treads, might as well leave the OSB.  OSB is just crap and will certainly not take spills and moisture like a solid piece of wood.

Also I would worry that the "give" of the OSB would lead to squeaky stairs.   For instance if I left it and used MDF I would just glue down the MDF everywhere on top.  If using solid wood I would want to screw them into the risers. I wouldn't want the OSB sandwiched in the middle since I wouldn't trust this to be stable and even.


It is of course possible for an individual to make a door that provides a normal level of performance. The probability that a person without knack for or reasonable experience performing finish carpentry is, however, rather low.

To perform to a normal level, a door needs to fit within a tight tolerance and maintain dimensional stability without twisting or warping. Typically, doors which are not manufactured in a factory are fabricated in a professional carpenter's workshop. It's not really a do it yourselfer's project given the standard to that appears in the photograph.

As an alternative, a used doors from local building recyclers are a reasonable option if a person is patient and diligent. Modifying an existing used door is another option that requires less specialized knowledge.


Should gaps be left between sheets of drywall for any reason?

It really doesn't matter, I would run them tight, it uses less mud. If a gap occurs, don't sweat it. It is better to run drywall tight into the corners, it makes taping easier than having a gap. I have never seen a drywall crew intentionally set gaps.


How can I boost water pressure from the city main up a long hill?

It's way too soon to be picking products. First you need a strategy.

I see five delivery problems here.

Getting enough pressure of water to climb your hill.  Rule of thumb, you lose 1/2 PSI per vertical foot (a little high, but you'll need pressure for flow, too.)
Getting enough volume of water up the hill for your instantaneous use. Pipe walls have a lot of drag, and you have a lot of pipe walls.
Getting electricity down to the pump location.  Perhaps ironically there's power right near the pump location, but not on your meter.
Getting enough electricity to the pump location to satisfy your instantaneous use.  Which could be quite a lot.
Reliability of the pressure from the water company.  OK it's 70 psi now and so you pick a location 100 feet up the hill, which 70 psi can serve.  But what happens when all your neighbors shower at once and it plunges to 35 psi?  Your pump goes dry since 35 psi can't push it up 100 feet! Yowch.

So there's no question in my mind that I'd put the booster pump as low as possible. That means both a water and electricity run for the full 700 feet, and that ain't chump change.  So when reaching for Franklins, I first reach for a sharp pencil and the the old IBM "THINK" sign.

if you size for instantaneous use - abandon the cistern - you have two problems.  First, pipes and cords must be sized for worst-case surge, which means they are huge and expensive. (and tempting theft candy). Second, no power = no water.
Since the cistern has worked for you, what if you keep it? Surge load is absorbed by the cistern, as it is now, and the pump and piping only need to refill the cistern (keep it topped up).  It can do that at a very low rate with fairly small pump, pipe and wires. Still, no power, no water.
Since you own land 700 feet wide and 200 feet high, any chance you own higher?  Put your cistern up there (like this guy) and let that .433 PSI per vertical foot supply your water pressure.  Now you're showering with no power! Also handy for firefighting, something to think about when sizing your cistern.  Now your pump down low has to push even higher, but again only a trickle, just to top up the cistern.

Honestly, you have to price it all ways and decide which features you want.

So suppose you want a cistern system that can recover 240 gallons/day (seems like a lot.) That's 10 gallons per hour.  10 gallons weighs x8.3= 83 pounds.   If you are lifting 200 ft, that is 83x200=16600 foot-pounds per hour of energy.  1 KWH is 2655220 ft-lbs., so this will take you .00625 kilowatt-hours per hour, or 6.25 watts.  That has "solar" written all over it - derate 80% for solar availability (lifting 50 GPH 20% of the time) and you're still at 31 watts.  Easy peasy.

If we wanted a surge/demand system that could supply 10 GPM, that's 600 GPH, 996000 ft-lbs per hour, 375 watt-hours per hour, assuming 39% pump efficiency, that's about 4 amps at 240V. 12 AWG wire ($479) can do that, but that assumes no friction losses in the pipe, which assumes fat pipe.  You'd have to balance the cost of fat pipe vs the cost of thicker wire to pump up thinner pipe. That balance is above my skill level.  Normally I'm all about conduit, but in this case I'd direct-bury the electrical cable so it isn't stolen.


811 just marked my utilities, can I mow my lawn?

NO! Do not disturb the markings enough to make them disappear. Mow around the markings.


Bathroom mirror fogging up even when bathtub is not in use

If it's fogging up without a local source of high humidity there are a few other things that could cause it (probably in combination):

The mirror being mounted on a cold/badly insulated outside wall.
An extractor fan in the bathroom drawing in steam from other sources (cooking, another bathroom etc.) which should be ventilated locally.
Damp, for example from leaking plumbing or weather getting in
Drying washing or towels over a heater in there


That looks like fiberglass (if it feels pretty flexible its fiberglass, if it pings when you tap it with your wedding ring its porcelain) which could in theory be patched with a fiberglass resin patch. Use the kind with the fiberglass mesh, not just Bondo it will crack. Or you could try West Systems G/Flex Epoxy Kit WSY-650K, I've used it to do some hairy fixes and it is pretty impressive. Having said that, I would consider any patch to be a temporary fix at best. You've got water, regular stressing forces caused by your shifting weight in the tub, and a hole that may be leaking into an area that you can't see. Bad juju.  Also, and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the last time I replaced a shower/tub insert it ended up costing the homeowner about $2300 because we had to tear up and replace a lot of the sub-floor due to years of minor leaks and overflows. You may not be looking at water damage yet but I wouldn't be surprised if you have to perform a little surgery once that shell is out.
Best of luck,
ph


Do I buy a travel adapter or can I simply replace the plug?

I'm not very good with electricity and stuff

Put down the screw driver and step away from the appliance.

Yes, you should just buy an adapter.


How do I clean sealant/silicone from a glass mirror?

Wait until it dries and use a razor blade to scrape it off.


How should I seal exposed nails on the roof of an addition?

Exposed nails not only look bad but the heads will deteriorate faster being exposed. On the occasion I have a shiner I will cover it with a small amount of roof patch. I use an asphalt based patch and collect some of the sand from a bundle then it is hard to see even if you know it's there.


Proper way of permanently fixing a heavy utensils drawer with "hanger" rail?

If the drawer doesn't fall on the trip to the back limit, it would indicate that the plastic hanger is doing fine until it reaches the end of the support rod. Perhaps you'll find unusual wear on the far end of the rod.

As an option, consider to reverse the hanger clip so that it is on the inside of the drawer, shifting the hang point clear of the (possibly) failed rod end.

If you have a makerspace in your area, you may also find you can have a modified hanger created on a 3D printer. Using PETG (stronger than PLA or ABS), you could have a longer hanger clip (front to back) or a more narrow closure at the top to prevent the drop-out.

If you can find a second clip, attach one to the inside of the drawer and one to the outside, although that may not be as effective as a modified version.

Consider also to apply some wood paste wax to the rod surfaces to reduce the wear on the plastic.


LED strip forgets last setting when turned off

The controller needs to be continuously powered in order to remember the dimmer setting. Unfortunately, the electrician wired the timer so that it interrupts power to the controller.

One way to fix this would be to purchase a relay that has a 230V coil and contacts rated to handle the DC current at the output of the controller.

Wire the controller's AC input directly to the mains.

Wire the output of the timer to the relay coil.

Wire the relay contacts in series with the output of the controller (i.e., between the controller and the LED strip).


How do I correctly wire a new light/switch from an outlet?

Electrically, this will work and your diagram is correct. You're lacking a bunch of construction concerns though. How are you getting from outlet to switch?, from switch to transformer, where will tx be mounted, what type of wire, etc.


Does Homeowner's Insurance Typically Cover A Broken Well?

The only person who will know for sure what your home owners policy covers will be your insurance agent. Best we could do is guess. I honestly have no idea.

As far as the expense of repair, it depends on how much of the labor you can do yourself. Excavators aren't exactly cheap to rent, but they aren't thousands of dollars either. Pipe itself is usually fairly cheap, unless it's large diameter copper.


"Top layer" plywood subfloor fastened to decking

The 45 degree decking is the primary sub-floor.  It's a technique that was widely used in the past, but has subsequently been replaced with simply dropping sheets of plywood down.

In answer to your questions:

1) You can glue and screw to the sub-floor.

2) In this case, it doesn't matter.  The sub-floor is carrying the load diagonally.  However, if there were no sub-floor, then you would want to go perpendicular. See this discussion on the subject.

3) Always - always - always level as you go.  Fix the level at the soonest possible opportunity or it can be amplified by an order of magnitude.


Gas Fireplace: Is mesh screen panel in front of the glass necessary?

Without seeing a picture, I'm going to assume you're talking about the "safety screen" that now comes with most fireplaces.

It's necessary for manufactures to provide them, but whether you put it on or not is up to you. The intent of it is to stop small children from burning their skin on it if they get too close to the unit, but if there are no children in the house then it serves no point.


Easy platform for a small metal frame pool

Sand bags would be a good idea. I normally use railroad ties drive a piece of rebar through the tie into the ground and fill the area with beach sand (I live close to the ocean and sand is free). I would put a tarp down over the asphalt and the filled in area so it won’t wash out , I haven’t used plywood just a tarp it helped to extend the life of the liner. Some 25 years ago I used to take temp pools down but now I don’t a week and a half of vacuuming leaves out and the kids are in it in May even in Oregon they are nuts!


How can I stop my shower doors from hitting one another and making an awful noise?

Hard to tell. I would slowly operate the doors a few times and try to see where something might be contacting another piece. I don't think the top brackets are touching each other unless somehow the screws had losened. The top rail should keep the apart.

The spacer on the bottom I think might be the issue. The outside door looks pretty low. The top rail might have sagged a little or was not installed level and the outside door might be hitting it as it passed over it. Or possibly some sort of deposits have built up on the bottom.

You should be able to raise the outside door by removing it and repositioning the screws in the bracket. It differs by model but I haven't seen a set of doors that don't have some adjustment. When the doors are removed also make sure that bottom plastic spacer is clean and properly installed.

If you do this, wear shoes, a long sleeve shirt, gloves and safety glasses in case the glass breaks.


Looks like a return cover, which means there's likely no ducting at all (just an open stud bay).

If that's the case, putting a nail/screw/anchor in the cavity, could lead to dust and debris getting snagged up on the object.  Will it cause a problem? Probably not, but it surely could.

Since you're  looking to hang a coat rack, you should do your best to attach it directly to framing members (studs).  Coat racks can be loaded with quite a bit of weight, and are often subject to abuse (yanking, pulling, etc.).


A/C Condensation from duct getting into drywall

The best way to combat the condensation problem is to insulate the riser duct, aka metal duct, that is causing the problem. There are several ways to do the job. The best way is to use a vapor-barrier & spray-on foam insulation,  but that can be costly and messy, unless done by a professional.  Another is to use Rock-wool to insulate the duct, but often there is not enough room in the wall to use it.  The insulation that I prefer to use is a Duct-wrap. It looks like bubble-wrap with small "bubbles" sandwiched between 2 layers of foil-lined plastic.  It all depends on how much money you want to spend and how much space there is between the duct and the drywall.
The short-term solution, is to install a duct-wrap. It is available at home improvement stores in the building products department in the insulation section. It generally comes in various lengths at a 4 foot width & can be cut to size with scissors (or a razor-knife, if you are careful).  To install it, simply measure the distance between the studs and add at least 12 inches to tuck the insulation behind the duct OR add 4 inches & staple it to the studs like traditional fiber-glass insulation. Cut the duct-wrap to size. You will also need to get metal (duct) tape to seal the seams between the upper piece and the lower piece of duct-wrap. It has a paper-backer to keep the glued side from sticking to itself. You will need to peel the paper-backer off when you install it.
The Long-term solution would be up to you.  You could hire someone to take apart your existing ducts and insulate them or you could do the job yourself, either way that is the only solution to your problem. And by the way, cutting a hole on the wall will only make matters worse by giving the humidity a direct path to the now un-insulated ducts.


As with any flooring the flatter and smother the base is the better the end result will be.
I have had good luck with a heat gun and a putty knife. You do really want to remove the high spots for a good looking floor that will last.


Making a Solar Power Battery Backup Unit

You have the basic concept down.  Your challenge will be sizing.

What's the minimum possible load you can put on the system?  For instance, don't use an inverter to run lighting.  Run the lighting direct off 12V, and there's a huge variety of 12 volt LED lighting: from screw-in bulbs, spot or flood lights, LED strips that let you freestyle your lighting, etc.  No problem getting iPad chargers for 12v, every gas station has them. A surprising number of internet routers and TVs will also run on 12V directly (partly, this is for campers).
Inverters are not efficient. Put every load you possibly can on 12 volts direct. Simply at idle, with no load at all, it consumes 12-15 watts, or all the power your solar panel makes on an average sunny day.  Obviously you only want to run it only when absolutely necessary for loads you can't get in 12v versions.
It is usually cheaper to make loads efficient than to make your system bigger to handle inefficiency.
If it's forgotten and left on, put it on a timing mechanism.
Once you have your loads down to practical minimums, you can think about sizing the battery and solar panel for your loads.
Make your battery's amp-hours 3-4 times bigger than your expected load.  If you "bottom" a lead-acid battery regularly, you will greatly shorten its life.  It's unfair but true.
Size your battery for your "burst" usage, i.e. so it can make it through your hardest day's usage, and so typical days' usage use less than 30% of its capacity.
"Battery protectors" are readily available, the best are probably those which disconnect your car's battery while it still has enough juice to start your car.   The solar panel (charger) should go straight to the battery (fused of course).
Size your solar panel to fully recharge your battery in between uses.
How many days can the system function with no usable sun? (how often will this happen?)
How quickly will it recover from a deeply run down battery?
Fuse everything, to protect your wires and battery from catching fire or taking damage.

It really all depends on your situation.  I have an application with a fairly large battery (about 300 pounds, NiFe) that burns a 60 watt spotlight for 3-6 hours a weekend, then has all week to recharge.  A 20 watt panel is plenty, even when laid horizontal and covered with plexiglas and dirt.


Trial and error flipping breaker handles isn't so bad especially if you have an assistant or can attach something that makes noise (a fan, a radio, etc) so that you can hear at a distance when you find the correct breaker. Honestly it's the quickest thing you could do.
Some of us might have been known to wire 120 v devices while the circuit is live. While of course I couldn't recommend that a person should do such a reckless thing.. if a person did choose to wear gloves and work carefully, it wouldn't be impossible to attach a receptacle to those bare wire ends so that the plug-in tracer could be used (or a plug-in noise maker, for that matter). Were a person to attempt this, it might be most safely accomplished if the receptacle is prepared with some "pig tails" (wire leads 6 inches long or so), wrapped in electrical tape to insulate the bare terminals, and then the pig tails could be attached to the live 120 v leads with wire nuts.
If the old-school intercom is still at least somewhat functional you might be able to set it up in a way that it makes noise. Some had a built-in AM/FM radio, or an audio input jack, or maybe you can just turn up its volume and listen for the background crackly static sound to go quiet while you're going through the breakers.


Is it OK to have 10ga wire running from breaker to switch then 8ga from switch to pump?

You are free to use a conductor that is rated greater than the ampacity of the feed, but not less than. If the breaker is 30 amps, you can go above #10, but not below it. Likewise, if the breaker is 40 amps, you can't go smaller than #8.

If you're using #8 just to compensate for the drop over distance, then yes - you can come out of the switch with #10 if #8 somehow makes termination impractical at the pump. It's not uncommon to see #8 pulled to hot tubs and the like even with a 30A breaker simply because the electrician is not sure what kind of motor is actually going to show up, so they go with the larger conductor just in case.

This, of course is assuming copper wire with THHN insulation.


Power plug will not go inside the power socket!

Those don't look like tamper-resistant outlets to me.
New sockets are often just stiff.  That's how it is.
Mind you, the "loosy goosey" sockets you are accustomed to, are actually a fire hazard.  When contact is poor, a tiny gap will form, and electricity will simply jump across the gap.  This action is called "arcing" and makes a LOT of heat and soot, and that tends to make the arcing worse and worse, and it's a death spiral of destruction until you have a fire in the outlet.
So stiff outlets == good.  Plug it in totally square (in case it's a tamper-resistant) and push like you mean it.  Power plug blades are quite durable.  Honestly my biggest problem is breaking off ground pins from having pulled sideways on the cord.


How to determine why an AFIC or GFIC breaker tripped?

1 - Get an Electrician.

2 - Reset the breaker & turn back on, then press the Test Button or Procedure & turn it back on to rule out breaker issues. Of course, if it stays on & only trips with the Test then the circuit's expectedly good all the way around...for the moment. The overall Wiring of the circuit is very rarely defective or affected by events such as these, due to breakers. So, you can be fairly confident that the wires in the walls, floors & ceilings are still sound.

3 - Carefully & cautiously remove the Electrical Panel's cover & only visually inspect that everything of the same colors are matching everything else of the same color. Anything visually popped loose will need to be re-attached & the entire panel should be killed with the Main Breaker & all connections screwed tight or confirmed to be tight & that nothing moves when pulled upon. Then, look closer for any signs of black smoky scorch marks anywhere & then for anything being melted or discolored. If everything looks good, then gingerly replace the Electrical Panel's cover & pat it on the front only to thank it for not killing you.

4 - Switch Off the breaker & go rip out the circuit's outlets & switches to inspect those ends of the circuit. Bring a Flathead screwdriver along to remove cover plates & to physically confirm that all screws are tight & pull on all connected wires to confirm nothing's slipping. Pull out the mashed-in wires & unscrew one wire nut to confirm the wires ends were twisted together. If not then twist them & replace the wire nut until it's tight, if they were twisted then just screw the wire nut back on tightly. Repeat this for the remaining wire nuts throughout the circuit. If your outlet & switch screws don't seem to be used then replace those outlets & switches. They are friction connected & are notoriously the cause for trips & much worse, the idiots that be should've never allowed them & anyone that used them was not an Electrician. Any scorch marks or melting of anything, including wire ends will need to be removed & the outlet or switch replaced.

5 - With the power still off, check that the circuit's light fixtures & anything plugged into the circuit are visually & physically sound as best you can. Check that wire nut connections at lights are twisted together. And, look & feel plugs & plug wires for any cracks, cuts or melting, scorch marks at or above outlets & loose connections at outlets & the devices the plugs are attached to.

All of the above, of course, also applies to exterior wiring & devices. Though, these items may be more difficult to remove or disassemble. You may need to re-caulk for waterproofing, split or cracked gaskets should be replaced & loose mountings should be re-tightened.

Due to the extent of the above procedures. Consider replacing outlets, switches, light fixtures & even damaged cover plates. As an additional step in avoiding phantom trips, all outlet & switch side screws should be wrapped twice around with Electrical Tape to ensure that no-one & nothing accidentally interfere with the circuit's proper operation.


What sort of Power consumption should I be able to get down to when turning everything off

Turning things off will not stop the power usage on many electronic devices, tv’s microwaves or anything with a touch pad to turn it on consumes power to keep the electronics alive watching for a button push.
Even power supplies to computers and cell phone chargers when not plugged in consume a small amount of power. How can you tell if your “wall wart” plug in transformer is using power? Feel it if it is warm or warmer than the surrounding area it is consuming power how much ??? It varies cable boxes computer routers are all things that add up. If everything is unplugged most homes can get down to 15-20w and these are hard wired transformers for door bells and furnaces. So you should be able to get down much further based on testing I Have done for customers.


Taking down the wall safely is not the only issue. You wrote in comments:

there's no legal problem here because we own all the land surrounding the house that isn't ours, and the connection between the house and the old wall is actually on our property and not technically legal.

My perspective is that of a retired US lawyer, wholly unfamiliar with French real property law. In many legal systems, however, an activity on your own land (such as demolishing the wall) that affects or impairs your neighbors' land or structures thereon could create a serious legal problem for you. In US law, the underlying (pun!) concept is called subjacent support. Changing the land's drainage pattern could similarly affect others' property, and create similar liability.
Before you take any action on the ground, I would consult someone knowledgeable about these sorts of matters in your locality. An attorney or local notaire, or at least someone who has personal experience in real property construction and demolition. The person should not be someone who is involved in proposing, or doing, or contracting the work you want - that person has a built-in conflict of interest.
Removing the walls may be entirely doable. But doing so also may create serious and persistent problems, physical, fiscal, or both. You will be better off knowing before you act.


Single device for digital to analog television signal conversion

Does a device exist that can do the conversion for all channels?

Not simultaneously, so far as I know. Typically a "set-top box" (digital decoder) can decode a single channel at a time. You can get two or three channel devices at higher cost but so far as I know there's nothing that simultaneously decodes dozens or hundreds of digital channels and multiplexes them into an analogue signal on a coaxial cable from which multiple analogue TVs could select an analogue channel.

So you have to use the remote for the set-top-box to choose a channel.

  and all the other TV's in the house could be controlled normally.

Not for choosing a channel

  so the channel could be changed on the TV and not with the box?

No.

  I ask this because devices such as VCR's, DVR's, and USB tuners would suffer from not being to change the channel through their own programming.

Annoying isn't it. Welcome to the future.


Decades ago I installed several of those old Hunter oil bath fans (4-blade with low and high speed by pull chain) and have never had any problems with them. After 35 years of service I did have to replace the pull chain switch in the most heavily used one. All of these have light kits.

More recently I installed several of the newer cheaper Hunter 5-blade fans all with light kits in a relative's house (without remote transmitter/receiver) and they have not reported any problems.

More recently still in our house we got two additional fans--newer cheaper Hunter five-blade fans with remotes and we have had problems with both. After initially working, one fan would not turn on. In messing with it, I found that depowering the remote receiver by turning off the breaker (no wall switch) restored full function and it has continued to work since. High speed is a papers-off-the-desk tornado. Go figure!

The other fan no longer works on high speed. The medium and high buttons give the same speed. I am not even sure the medium is as fast as the medium on the other fan. Depowering the receiver did not restore function. "The next chance I get" I intend to disconnect the receiver and wire it directly to see if the problem is in the receiver or transmitter or is in the fan. All five of my fans are on the same circuit and all are powered direct with no wall switch.


How to rectify tannin staining through paint?

You may have wondered with all these low odor paints available why would anyone use a smelly paint?  One answer is to find a paint that will not absorb the stain.
You don't need to sand back to wood, just scuff sand to dull the sheen so that a fresh coat of different paint will stick.  however if there is a texture you want to disguise you can sand deeper.
Use a paint with a contrasting chemistry as undercoat, EG: use an oil-based paint with an organic solvent, or a shellac based sealer with an alcohol solvent if your main coat has a water solvent.


Do I need to do anything at the base to support deck steps?

If you want to land on grass you need footings below the frost line in Iowa.  Just two at the bottom.

The other option is to put in a solid stone or concrete pad.  Needs to be on compacted soil with gravel under.  Most importantly it needs to be level.  Note that this does not officially meet code but I have never seen a deck not pass if doing this.

To clarify on what an inspector would want in a pad - it needs to run the width of your stairs, the stair bottoms should be resting firmly on pad (pad should probably extend out a few inches width wise), and pad should support a reasonable human step from the lowest step you create.  I have done this in your exact situations with a variety of large stone.  I think with a short stair case the only reason I wouldn't do it is if the soil is disturbed.


You can use the 2-space panel as it is.  Just split the hot so it connects to both lugs. However you must use a 2-pole breaker, or handle-tie all the breakers so they throw together.  Why?  You need a disconnect switch, and that's it!  And it must be 1 throw action.

One of our crusades around here is to convince people that you are better off with a LARGE service panel, in terms of the number of spaces.  That is to say, 2-space panel considered bad; 18-space panel considered good.  Why? Physical expansion room.  The likeliest thing that will happen to you is that you will run out of breaker spaces.  This is an expensive and awkward problem, and it is easily avoided by getting an excessively large panel (for right now).

Saving money is awesome. We'll help you do that here.  But the message for now is, a baby panel is the worst possible place you could try to save money! There's very little money to be saved (I joke about "a few latté's" but it's true), and so much frustration and cost when you hit the wall later.

So take back the 2-space and get at least a 12-space.

I'll even say to get a panel with a "main breaker".  That becomes your mandatory disconnect switch. The cheapest way to get a 30A disconnect switch is to get a panel with a main breaker >= 30A. (Since you're only using it as a disconnect switch, size does not matter).

In the future if  you make your supply wire bigger, it just hooks up to the main-breaker panel. No need for an upgrade!

Hooking up to the disconnect switch

If you got a main-breaker panel, you take your 30A 120V "Hot" wire and split it.  That is, you put two 6" pigtails on the 2 hot inputs of the main breaker, and wire-nut that to your 30A input (you'll need a big blue or tan wire nut).   Now you can fit breakers normally.

NO MWBCs (shared neutral) circuits!  (if you don't know what that is, don't worry about it).

If you got a main-lug (no main breaker) panel, then you'll have to backfeed it.  (i.e. bring power "in" the normal "out" of a breaker).  Backfeed breakers require bolt-down kits, and bolt-down kits require 2-pole breakers.  So split the power to feed both "hots" of the 2-pole breaker.  This can't be a $80 GFCI breaker, you can't backfeed a GFCI!

In a pinch, you could use something like a quadplex breaker. Bolt down the quadplex.  Then backfeed with the two inner (say: 30A) breakers and serve your loads with the two outer (say: 20A) breakers.

There is also a "Tie the buses together" cheat that can be done, where  you run a wire connecting the two main lugs.  However, this doesn't buy you anything in a 30A panel.  Having too few spaces is still a huge problem.


Options for external "boxes" (like tivo) with wall mounted tv

There are systems that mount various devices on the back of the TV either directly attached or by using the VESA plate. Some are device specific (eg. to support Apple Mac Mini) and some generic. Depending on what you need to support, you can also DIY the plate, they're not that hard to make.

Alternatively you could run a long HDMI cable to wherever (in/through the wall and use a combination of remote control, HDMI switches etc) but that will be a lot more expensive and cumbersome to use. If you already have the wires, IR/RF remotes will usually work anywhere in the same room as long as the receivers are 'visible'. You can also use IR extenders.


Does arcing with fluorescent lights indicate an open neutral?

This is a double problem.  It is a ground fault of the lights, which should normally be handled efficiently by the wired grounding system (and not the water pipe).  Unfortunately it is not, which reveals faulty wiring.

Normally, all current is supposed to return on the neutral wire, with wired grounding only as a safety shield.  The wired grounding is meant as a "catcher" to assure that any ground-fault current returns on the ground wires and does not resort to using water pipes etc.  Those should never come into play, not even in fault conditions.  The water pipe bonding (grounding electrode) exists to ground lightning and ESD, both natural electricity sources.

You can "kill the symptom" by fixing the ground-fault on the fluorescent lights.  But I wouldn't do that just yet.  I would use it as the "canary in the coal mine" to chase this problem.

The real problem

Your ground wiring (or maybe neutral) is very broken.  First, check your neutrals for continuity.  I expect they are intact, as the water pipe/earth path is probably not capable of flowing enough current to power 8 fluorescent lights.  If you disconnect the water pipe strap, do the fluorescents in the garage go out?  If  you run a power tool also, do the fluorescents desperately flicker and the power tool stumble??  If those things work OK, that means the neutral system is probably intact.

Now onto the ground.  I expect ground defects, and realize this is not the end of the world -- you can retrofit ground.

First, I'd give a careful once-over to the main panel, just to make sure everything is in order.  Obviously your ground-bus to grounding-electrode strap is in good order, because removing it makes sparks, and that also proves the bond between your ground bus and your neutral bus.   In this main panel, you may see neutrals and grounds all jumbled together.  This is sloppy, but legal in the main panel only because there only, neutral and ground are bonded together.  That will not be the case in subpanels.

The subpanels

The grounding here will be the crux of the matter. Correct is that the subpanel is fed from the main panel by 4 wires -- a ground, plus neutral, plus 2 hots - so 4 wires in total, with ground and neutral separate.  (occasionally you'll see only one hot; so one less wire).  The neutral and ground feeder go to separate neutral and ground bars, and those are isolated - they are not bonded, and any bonding straps or green screws are removed.  Each circuit has its neutral and ground going to separate bars.   That is correct.

However it's quite likely you will find 3 wires - 2 hots and a neutral.  One approach is to "bootleg ground", i.e. attach all the grounds to the neutral bar (like is done in a main panel). However, that would cause any fault current to return via neutral, which would not cause your symptom.

The other "3-wire" scenario is where the person means well, but doesn't understand the importance.  In this case, they correctly keep separate ground and neutral bars, and do not bootleg/bond ground to neutral (ok so far). But they fail to run a ground wire back to the main panel: they simply drive a ground rod into the dirt and attach the ground bus to that.  They expect dirt to carry back any fault currents to the main panel, via the main house's electrode.  That doesn't work.  Dirt is a very poor conductor, and will actually hide a dead-short bolted fault by not allowing enough current to flow for the breaker to trip.

I think that's the scenario you are going to find; either that or they did something much more awful, like abuse a water pipe as the subpanel ground rather than running a wire.  You don't want to flow current on pipes, unless you're really into galvanic corrosion and replacing pipes a lot.

The solution in any of these "3-wire" scenarios is to run a separate ground wire, and recent Code changes allow you to run just a ground wire.  The ground rod doesn't hurt, it's just no replacement for a ground wire.  The rod and wire do different jobs, and one can't do the other's.

Fixing the ground faults

Every device is supposed to take power from "hot" and return it all to "neutral". When devices have insulation problems internally, they may start leaking power to other places they should not.  This would "electrify their metal chassis" and hurt people or start fires, if it was not for grounding.  This is why grounding exists.

I disagree with my colleague regarding the source of ground faults in fluorescents and other HID lighting.  Fluorescent lighting is commonly used in basement, garage and other utility space, all of which are protected by GFCI in a modern home.  It would be anathema for a modern electronic ballast to have any ground leakage, even 1ma, because with 10 fixtures, that would be 10ma, which exceeds the trip threshold of a GFCI.  I argue electronic ballasts are the solution, not the problem.  However, cruddy old magnetic ballasts (the heavy kind full of transformer windings and drippy tar - don't try to salvage one unless you really like tar) - those are highly prone to ground faults, in my experience.

You can switch to direct-wire LED "tubes" if you like, however I am not impressed with the build quality of the cheaper ones.  I am very impressed, however, with the quality and price of modern fluorescent ballasts and the latest tubes from mainline manufacturers.  As such, I am sticking to real fluorescent for now.  Get any respectable brand of electronic ballast that matches your light's wiring, then get nice 90 CRI tubes that match your ballast.  You will not believe how nice things look in that light.


Some basic troubleshooting: the water has to be going somewhere. If the water is going in but not staying in, that means it's going out, and if it's not spilling out on the floor, that means it's going out through the drain hose. Can you see water going out the drain hose?

If so, is the outlet of the drain hose lower than the level of the washer's spinning basin? If so, then that's where the water is going. You've turned the whole washing machine into a big water level and one side of the level (the drain hose) allows water to escape, so it's escaping. Solution: raise the outlet of the drain hose somehow.

If the outlet of the drain hose is already higher than the level of the basin and water is still coming out of it, then it sounds like the pump is prematurely pumping the water out for no good reason. Can you hear the sound of the pump? I'll defer to someone who knows more about washing machine repair if this is the case?


Why doesn't my ceiling fan's light kit work?

What are you talking about here:

  I believe wiring at fan is correct. In the switch box, I have all the
  whites wirenutted together and pigtailed to switch, a blue and black
  wirenutted together and pigtailed to switch, and two black wires
  wirenutted together.

Are you talking about the box in the wall which holds the switch? If so, why are the whites pigtailed to the switch? Is this switch just a regular one-way mechanical  switch? Or is it some new special switch that requires a neutral (white) connection?

Or when you say "switch box" do you mean the rectangular receiver which is under the cover where the fan attaches to the ceiling? If this is the case it sounds like you may have the whites wired wrong.

The receiver in my Hunter fan has two white stranded wires. One of these (labeled "neutral in") is wire-nutted  to the solid white in the house wiring. The other (labeled "common out") is wire nutted to the stranded white common neutral in the fan. So my fan has a neutral common to the fan and the light. If your fan has a separate neutral for the fan and the light, then I presume both of these would be wire nutted to the "common out" wire of the receiver (so 3 wires in that wire nut).

So all of the whites are not supposed to be wire nutted together and pig-tailed to the switch.

My receiver also has two black wires and one blue wire, all stranded wire. One black is labelled "live in" and is to be wire nutted to the solid black of the house wire. The other black is labeled "fan out" and is wire nutted to the stranded wire that powers the fan. The blue wire is labeled "light out" and is to be wire nutted to the stranded wire that leads to the light.


Can I use this spray gun with my air compressor?

Sounds like you're using an automotive sprayer. You need to set your compressor's regulator to 60 PSI max or the can may explode. If the compressor doesn't have an adjustable regulator, you'll need to install one.


Worried about cracked rafters in house built 1985

This isn't a stellar answer because there's more information needed. But here's a start.

First, your roof system is built with trusses, so the forces acting on the wood behave a little differently than classic stick framing. (For instance, some members are in tension; others are in compression.)

In picture #1, the crack: it's not clear to me what function that stick is doing. If you could draw a sketch of the truss (with the approximate location of the crack and an indication of where walls are underneath), we could form a bit more of an opinion. (Off the top of my head, that crack doesn't look terrible in the context of a truss, but we need more information.)

Pic #2: if you're highlighting the long crack, that's unlikely to be anything other than checking. (If it was an inch/25mm deep, that would be a problem, but I don't see that in the picture.)

Pic #3: if you're only able to dig in a few mm before you hit solid wood (don't hesitate to be aggressive with a screwdriver or pick -- any wood you remove wasn't helping anyway), I wouldn't be concerned about this. Check the other side to see if it's any deeper. If you manage to excavate a considerable amount of wood, come back and tell us. More important is the question of how that started to rot. Is there a leak there or above it on the roof? Or has that been dealt with?

Regarding your weight on the roof... don't worry about it. Modern roofs are designed to carry considerable live/dead loads, and you're not going to get close to the limits.

edits to respond to comments (I ran out of space in the actual comment box...)

I'd like to reiterate that I'm neither an engineer, nor am I in your attic. So my opinion might be worthless. But I look at your additional pic of #1 and I see a truss member that's in compression. And it doesn't look like it's completely falling apart either. So I'd sleep well at night with that over my head. But if you're concerned, you could add another 2x4 either beside or under the existing one. (Essentially, you'd be giving it a splint -- called 'sistering' if you want to google it.)

Good to hear that the other issues aren't problematic.

And a quick aside: trusses are astonishingly flimsy when they arrive at the jobsite. Carpenters look at each other as if to say, "We're gonna put that crap up?!?" The wood they use never seems to be particularly nice. And yet, these things work well. Partly because they are overbuilt, and partly because they are so redundant when put together in a system.

So, long story short, I'd suggest you not worry.


emery cloth or sandpaper to remove corrosion

Sure. Emery cloth is better able to handle moisture and repeated flex due to scrubbing. Otherwise, they'll both do the job.


What's the best way to resolve multiple circuits going to a single outlet?

Based on your description, I would disconnect the outlet from circuit 10. That way everything electrical you can see (switches, receptacles, ceiling light/fan, etc.) is connected to circuit 1, in a way that makes sense.
You'll need to attach wire caps to circuit 10 so it's safe. Unfortunately the only way to remove that circuit properly is to cut open the wall, which is a much bigger mess.


Should I finish staining my half-stained deck with rain coming?

We're thinking of staining our four year old deck soon, and my only credentials are that we've thought about this scenario.

If I were you, I would go ahead and apply the first coat to the remainder of your deck, basically ensuring that all surfaces are evenly covered. If it does rain and screw up everything, at least the screw-up will be consistent.

I realize humidity will be an issue, but are you planning on covering the deck while it's raining? Cover it when raining, let it dry up when sunny.


Bathroom addition - pluming drainage problem

I did exactly what u describe. Take a circular saw with a diamond blade and cut into the concrete on the outside of the pipesize. Small increments at a time. Cut the complete depth of the blade. Than take a concrete hammer and get rid of the inside between ur two cuts. If u have to go deeper just continue with the hammer. Add the pipe and new metal reinforcement and concrete. The project was not much fun.  The stability is not a concern. My project was 5 years ago. Prep you concrete that the old binds with the new. There are plenty of YouTube videos for that. There is also a binding compount. I used the mesh type of reinforcement but I did not connect it to the old concrete.


Are surge protector power strips designed for long-term, mounted use?

Almost no electronic device lasts forever.  Instead they have MTBF(Mean Time Before Failure), although if you reverse engineered a bunch of power bars, you would probably find some more robust and likely to survive much longer, you probably shouldn't count on any past their warranty.  They are not likely to fail short and explode, it's more likely they will fail in such a way that the connected devices are not protected.
I'll just mention at this point that you can get system sized surge protectors if your boss is really worried about surges.
One thing you could do is go around and check the ratings of them and see what you can look up about each individual unit.  No telling whether they are all surge protectors in the first place, what their protection ratings are, if they have any connected equipment warranty, whether it applies to commercial use, whether the warranty has expired.
By the time you've done an assesment you'll likely have enough information to say to your boss "Ok roughly 30% are ancient, 20% are power splitters not surge protectors, 45% are out of warranty and another 30% aren't sized well or warranty doesn't cover all connected equipment.  I also found 2 of them that don't have regulatory markings (CSA(Canadian Standards Association) or UL(Underwriter's Lab) in Canada). There are 114 units in total, and we can do a bulk order of insert quality replacement for 22 currency each.  Would you like to replace them?"


Looking at your picture, the disposal unit is improperly installed.

Have a look:

That white bendy straw looking flex pipe in the red circle is trapping water inside the disposal unit. The U shaped trap thing should drain strait into the waste pipe. What's happening is the flex pipe has raised the water line in the disposal unit. When you go to use your sink, the water is building up in that drop. This creates a little back pressure which the drain water has to overcome to fight past the water trapped in the flex pipe. Now have a look at that thinner white tube in the yellow circle entering into the disposal unit near the top. Notice how close it is to the high water line. That's the dishwasher drain line. Dishwashers have very simple plumbing to keep cost down so there is nothing keeping dirty sink water from overflowing into the dishwasher drain. This is where your standing water is coming from.

To fix this, a plumber would have to break that wall under the sink and lower that waste line eliminating the flex line and allowing the water to properly drain.


If your insulation is damp, chances are good it could freeze or stay damp for a while.  If not too much is involved, it would be a good idea to remove it to a warm place to dry out, or simply replace it.  Never a good idea to leave wet material against ceiling drywall.  It could dampen and ruin the drywall. If left too long, mold or mildew could result.  The snow coming through the vents is probably an isolated event.  Don't close the vent.  Maybe just lay a sheet of 4 mil plastic over the insulation to keep snow off your insulation.  Keep an eye on it.  If it happens often, consider a better louvered/screened vent fixture that won't allow snow to blow in as easily.


Pex fixtures are becoming increasingly popular, but solid brass mixing valves are still the norm for most manufacturers.  Many plumbers use conversion fittings on brass valves to connect to pex tubing in situations where using all copper tubing would be  much more difficult and time consuming.

Unlike electrical connections, there are no code rules I am aware of that disallows unions or connections to be made in a closed wall. Whenever possible however, an access door or panel is installed behind bath/shower plumbing.(usually in a closet) When access is possible, shut off valves are also installed for both the hot and cold water feeds.


Should our kitchen sink vent through the roof?

This is actually pretty easy to remedy given that you have decent attic access.  You just route vent to the main stack.  Might have to cut out main stack in attic, support it, add a T to connect vent and put the pieces back together.  That would be easy way to code compliance and could cost as little as $30-40.


How to put a sidewalk on a slanted hill?

If you’re working in the “Right-of-Way” you’d better contact the City and verify compliance with their Standards for Construction”.

The notion that the sidewalk needs to comply with ADA is nonsense, if you’re located on a 30 degree slope. First, ADA is for public “use” building sites, and second it’s not required for extreme sloped sites that create a hardship.

However, the City will have many requirements and you’ll need a permit to work in the right-of-way, including how and when you can block off the roadway to perform the work.


How to violate the NEC...with a bedroom door

Putting the panel "behind the door", as you describe, is actually no good as it causes the door, when opened, to infringe on the NEC 110.26 clear working space for the panel:

  110.26 Spaces About Electrical Equipment. Access and working space shall be provided and maintained about all electrical
  equipment to permit ready and safe operation and maintenance of such equipment.

If you need an example to tickle your imagination, just think of an electrician trying to take voltage readings in the subpanel (thus requiring the situation to be worked "hot" to at least some degree) when someone, unaware of our poor electrician's presence, opens the door to the bedroom right into the electrician, clobbering them into the subpanel box in a most shocking fashion!

So, in any case, I would put your subpanel in the full-width, and fully exposed, adjacent bay instead of trying to "hide" it behind a door.

GO BIG OR GO HOME

There is no sense in using a tiny, six-slot subpanel here; either you're proposing a cutoff for a single appliance (where a "spa box" sized panel is just fine), or you are setting up for an honest-to-goodness feeder-and-subpanel, where six spaces will leave you going back to the hardware store for another subpanel far too soon.  Instead, I would go for a 125A, 24- or 30-space, main lug subpanel, given that this is being fed from within the same structure; these often come with factory fitted ground bars, as well as time-saving features such as plug-on neutrals, and will provide ample space for expansion in the future.

Furthermore, if you're really concerned about aesthetics here, there are options:

Some loadcenter vendors (GE & Siemens, as well as Eaton in their BR line) offer loadcenters with their covers finished in white as a special-order option (talk with a local distributor/supplyhouse for this, you won't find it at the bigbox stores)
Eaton, for their CH loadcenters, used to offer a decorator cover accessory (CH8KDNx) that could be freely painted or wallpapered to match the room; they don't seem to make it any more for their new CH PoN panels as a catalog item, but there still seem to be some NOS covers floating around...
Also, if you're willing to do some serious custom ordering (likely with supply house help), Eaton, through their Lincoln, IL Flex Center, offers custom factory paint jobs on any loadcenter in the Eaton lineup.

Of course, if your inspector is OK with having a false cabinet frame around the loadcenter, the "false cabinet door" trick for disguising service access, such as breaker panels, still works, too.  (It's pretty much mandatory for the small-circuit Square D loadcenters in this sort of situation, even, since their cabinets don't have a door to begin with.)

Flushmount is the way to go here, BTW

As an aside, you want to use a flush mounted panel here.  Surface mounted panels aren't used in finished spaces due to the issues involved with getting cables into and out of them and mounting them securely to the building framing in such circumstances.


What should I do about a horizontal crack around my porch slab?

Although I agree with Johnnyz that it seems harmless.  I would fill it with outdoor caulking.  I'm not sure what your climate is but if water gets in and freezes then you have a bigger crack.


How can I add insulation to my attic cheaply and safely?

We just usually bring up a couple of 2x8s at about 10' a piece and use as walkways.   You can't really do much with blown in insulation other than add more to it.  Cost of 2x8s (you can get the "bad" ones from big box for $5) and insulation + renting a machine (most are free given you buy X amount of insulation) is about a $400-600 job for most mid sized houses.


Check your pressure switch. Sometimes when you open the system up you get some debris in the line which can plug the switch and keep it from registering the pressure and shutting off. Also check that the contacts in the switch haven't "welded" themselves together.


Repair Small Holes In Brown Coat & Plaster

That looks like brown coat (the sandy part) with a white coat over it. Just as a mention, I see no rock lath anywhere. Nevertheless, it is an easy fix. I see the brown coat has fell out from behind the edge of the white coat. Using anything to do the same around the rest of the perimeter, a pen, pencil or stiff wire to carefully scratch out enough of the brown coat so a small lip of white coat protrudes all around the hole. It doesn't have to be large, it just needs a small lip, even 1/8" over the brown coat. Brush all remaining loose sand out with a soft bristle brush.

If you have drywall mud, plop a big enough wad to fill the hole completely the first time, allowing it to squeeze out all around the hole, after that, remove the excess by pulling the putty knife, (which is I hope wide enough to span across the width of the hole, this is important) across the hole by starting at the center of the hole and pulling to the outside of the hole, doing this in all directions. Since the sand mix is so loose pulling across in one direction only will "peel" mud back out of the hole. Let it dry for a day or two, it is a lot of mud and it may even shrink and crack a little. If that holds, tape over it and finish off with a light skim over it all and sand smooth.

If you are using real plaster of paris like your post suggests you used at first, you will need to wet the hole after it has been brushed clean. A spray bottle will work for that. Dampen it enough to change the color of the sand mix, it won't take a lot, a few squeezes of the trigger at all angles to wet all sides will do. In the same way as the mud, do the same with the plaster, but this stuff sets up fast. After it is place with ooze everywhere, clean the knife off and keep it wet, do not use a dry knife over plaster, it is an entirely different beast than drywall mud. Still working from the center scrape off the excess with the wet blade, you may even be lucky enough to get it smooth enough not need any sanding. If you manage to succeed in that- congrats, it is an art in getting the right "touch" to finishing plaster. When it comes to small repairs in a plaster wall, using plaster of paris, by the pros, there is no tape needed just persistence of going over and over the hole with a sponge and wet knife to get an invisible repair.


There are numerous approaches from simple graph paper (which can be printed out from free online sites, such as this one) to sophisticated paid-for programs, for example one from HGTV.  There are also hard copy layout sets with standard furniture that can be purchased.

You might want to look at one of the free programs, such as Google Sketchup (there is also a more complex paid version). There is a bit of a learning curve, but it has great tools to do three dimensional modeling. The paid version has a two dimensional module called Layout.


Where do you start when setting hip roof trusses?

You'll receive diagrams showing critical points to hit, such as the first full-depth truss from one end.

Modern hip truss sets typically have a view different types of trusses, depending on size and the existence of jogs in the building outline. From one end to the center:

Shorty trusses that abut the first full-width truss and create the end overhangs. These will be Y-shaped or triangular and most fasten to what's essentially a girder. There may be some that taper down at the front and back and fasten to the last common shorty, or there may just be one hip/ridge shorty. They're on the far right in the image below. Pay attention to fastening requirements for these. Building hardware may be specified.
Stepped common trusses that work up to the ridge. These may require the overlay of either a special truss assembly or flat hand-cut lumber into a recess along the top, forming the support for the roof sheathing and the ridge.
Common trusses in a conventional A shape. These are on the far left in the image below.

We normally work from the first full-depth truss (the girder for the shorties) and go right across the building. This allows you to either boom or walk each truss into position without obstruction. You should do what makes sense for your jobsite and crew capability. If you don't have two people comfortable walking walls, you may need to slide them up in the middle of the building.

It's a bit of an art to get those overlay systems on plane. Look things over from the ground regularly and adjust the stepped trusses as needed. Seek to get straight ridges, which are one of the most conspicuous aspects of a roof.

Add a diagram to your post for more specific advice.


Why does my gravity vented wall Furnace keep turning off/

it turned out that the thermostat had gone bad


How can I stop my garage door from hanging up on the door frame?

I would think the most likely candidate would be weakened springs.  The springs that support the door are ridiculously strong, but do loose their strength over time.  If they have weakened, the motor of your door opener has to lift more weight.  The heavier the load, the more likely it will be to hang up on something.  I would start by yanking the release rope on the door opener and lifting the door manually.  Does it hang in the same place?  Lube is definitely one thing to try.  I would also check all the hardware connecting the guide wheels to the door and make sure all the screws are tight.

If the lube doesn't help and all the guide wheels are tight and it still hangs when opening manually, it's either a problem with the track or the springs.  You could inspect the track itself for debris or call a pro.  If you decide it is a spring issue, definitely call a pro.  Even a weakened spring is still very strong and can cause injury if not handled properly.

If the lube doesn't help and all the guide wheels are tight and it does not hang when opening manually, there is probably an issue with the automatic garage door opener.  They are relatively inexpensive and easy to install.


I assume this setup is somewhat hypothetical because the water level monitor would not be very useful as shown.  Disregarding that...

Q:  What prevents [fluid] from overflowing the cooling reservoir?

I agree at first glance this setup looks like it will function as a siphon and the fluid will drain to the bottom reservoir and out, but there are two key points that prevent that:

Most importantly, the lines connecting top and bottom tanks are connected to the top of the upper tank.  A void will appear under the connections to the upper tank as soon as the upper tank level recedes due to any water being drawn out.  The void will break the siphon.  Worst case is only the water in the lines will flow into the lower tank.  Then the flow will stop.  The lower tank has enough reserve capacity to accommodate the liquid in the lines.
Unless the upper tank is high enough above the lower tank to overcome the force of a vacuum (roughly 30 feet of elevation for water), the liquid will have difficulty leaving the upper tank if the upper air valve is closed.

Q:  What is the purpose of the valve?  Should it be open for the water level monitor to work?

I am going to answer these in the reverse of order asked.

The valve must be open for the water level monitor to work.  When the valve is closed, captive air in the upper part of the level monitor will have no place to go, hence water will be unable to enter or leave as the level in the upper tank changes.  Having the valve closed is as good as having the level monitor turned OFF.
What is the purpose of the valve?   That's a good question, and without more detail the best I can do is hazard a guess.  The upper tank is a heat source which is being cooled.  If the coolant gets hot enough to boil then it might be necessary to temporarily close the valve to prevent a mess of hot liquid sputtering out.  Judging from the trap placed in the line before the valve, I think that is a possibility.


Paid an Electrician to install Sub-panel.. & Ground wire question

Yeah, that's fine.  Try not to have ground faults on both circuits at the same time :)

Nice job fixing up that panel.  Weird that the person wired it like that.

The breezeway means it is an attached structure and you are OK with not having a disconnect switch/main breaker.


Can I wire my under cabinet lighting in parallel?

Three LEDs per resistor is a common arrangement for fixtures designed to be connected directly to 12V.

No external resistor is required.

Your plan to connect them all in parallel is correct. Just make sure that the total current (0.3A per fixture × 6 fixtures = 1.8A) doesn't exceed the capacity of the power supply.

The lamps can be "daisy chained" with one cable running from the power supply to the first lamp, then a cable from there to the next lamp, and so on. However, electrically, this is still a parallel connection across the power supply, not a series connection. Each lamp is still getting the full 12V.


Who to call for fireplace ducting safety check and repair?

Unless you can be 100% sure you removed all of the insulation, probably put there be a previous owner, you're smart to want it thoroughly checked out. Try calling your local fire department on their non-emergency line or stop by the station. They will usually have some numbers for you to call to get the fire place checked out. They have a great interest in keeping you safe. Also check all your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors for correct operation. Good luck and enjoy.


How to remove watermarks from porcelain sinks?

Wipe with a paper towel with detergent, then apply chlorine bleach, small amount, let sit a few minutes then wipe off so someone doesn't come along unaware and ruin some clothes or worse get it in eyes. This can be Bon Ami with bleach, Tilex, etc., or can be chlorine laundry bleach.


The NEC (NFPA 70 2011 edition) requires GFCI receptacles in kitchens of dwelling units where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces. It does not mention a distance requirement in kitchens.
The distance requirement of 1.8 meters (6 feet) is for sinks located in areas other than kitchens.
Section 210.8 A of NFPA 70 2011 Edition deals with GFCI protection in dwelling units (see below).

210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel.
Ground-fault circuit-interruption for personnel shall be provided as
required in 210.8(A) through (C). The ground-fault circuit-interrupter
shall be installed in a readily accessible location. Informational
Note: See 215.9 for ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
personnel on feeders.
(A)  Dwelling Units.   All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1)
through (8) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
personnel
(1) Bathrooms
(2) Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at
or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to
storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.
(3) Outdoors
Exception to (3): Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snow-melting,
deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment shall be permitted
to be installed in accordance with 426.28 or 427.22, as applicable.
(4) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level
(5) Unfinished basements — for purposes of this section, unfinished
basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not
intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas,
and the like
Exception to (5): A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have
ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.
Informational Note: See 760.41(B) and 760.121(B) for power supply requirements for fire alarm systems.
Receptacles installed under the exception to 210.8(A)(5) shall not be
considered as meeting the requirements of 210.52(G).
(6) Kitchens—
where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces
(7) Sinks — located in areas other than kitchens where receptacles are
installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink
(8)
Boathouses


I am using tongue and groove planks for a desk. What's the best substrate to use?

best substrate would be 3/4 or 19mm baltic birch ply, or as a second choice, 3/4 maple ply.


Connecting 14/3 off of 3 way switch to 14/2 line for new outlet

Not possible for 2 reasons.
You don't have the right wires there
The problem with (traditional) 3-way wiring is that you don't have the voltages you need in the places you need them.

You need black, and white.
Generally, in 3/4 way switch circuits, always-hot and neutral are only available at the location the power enters the circuit.  But if that was your setup, you wouldn't be asking for help, would you? :)
The cure for this half of the problem is smart switches.  They need either 1 or 0 traveler wires instead of 2, allowing you to reclaim black to be an always-hot.
Kitchen receps can't serve anything else, and can't be 15A
Unless the microwave is a built-in, you are not allowed to install a receptacle in a kitchen unless it meets some rules.

It must be 12 AWG and 20A breaker
It must be a dedicated circuit that serves nothing but receptacles in the kitchen, pantry, dining room, breakfast nook etc.  (or ignitor/oven light on a gas oven, or a wall clock).

Since the circuit already powers a light, it can't add a kitchen receptacle to it.   Since the circuit is 15A, you cannot add a kitchen receptacle to it.
"But my existing wiring doesn't conform with that!"  Sure, that is grandfathered if the wiring was legal at the time it was installed.  However your new addition is not grandfathered and must comply with current Code.
The quasi-cure here is for the microwave to be a "built-in appliance" where the recep is behind the installed appliance and not accessible for any other purpose.


Is a power adapter with a loose prong safe to use?

There are several risks here. The first three I can think of are:

If the prong is pushed too far into the case it may touch other parts causing a short circuit, possibly putting line voltage on the output. Ideally it would be designed internally to prevent this possibility, but you don't know.
If the prong is also able to be pulled out, then unplugging the adapter could leave the prong in the outlet, resulting in live exposed metal.
Plugging it in might work but make poor contact, resulting in overheating at the plug (probably not) or intermittent operation.

It is unlikely that the adapter can be repaired adequately. Instead, purchase a replacement of the same voltage, current, polarity, and output plug type.


Why don't my bathroom outlets work after an appliance power surge?

Having a circuit failure when using a portable heater is probably the number one cause of receptacles not working.
In the U.S. The most common cause is use of back stabs (push in wire connectors). After that loose wirenuts then a loose or broken wire or wire in the service panel.
Your receptacles show hot but what about the return or neutral? If this connection is damaged the circuit won’t work but will show hot with a non contact tester.
If you work towards the service panel on this circuit the last working receptacle or switch or the first non working one will be where the failure is. Use a light or hair dryer to see which outlet it is. Turn off the power and look in this case for a loose, burned off or broken white wire, if things look good with back stabs and things start working when you turn the power back on the circuit will probably fail again when under heavy load so if you find backstabs it is best to move those connections to the screw terminals or if no terminals buy a receptacle that has them, 99c specials work 3-5$ specification grade are worth the extra and will last longer and hold the plug better.


How can I add a "C" common wire to this system?

In the wiring diagram in the PDF you linked, the BR (brown) wire connected to the secondary side of the transformer would be your "C" wire.   It connects inside the cabinet to the pump and fan relays, and comes out of the cabinet to the A/C condensor control (along with the "Y" wire from the thermostat).

This post on RadioThermostat's forum discusses a similar issues (no affiliation, except I have one of their thermostats).


In order to soundproof the noise from outside, how to install studwork on concrete walls and ceiling? How to fix stud on the walls and ceiling?

A concrete wall having outside noise issues? Hummm I do think I have heard of that problem.
If you want to isolate the wall from the living space that may work but will make the room smaller.

To anchor into concrete you will usually need to drill the plate and extend the hole into the concrete and use a tapcon or concrete screw. There are other methods but many are not easily removed and you may not be happy with the results and want to reclaim the space.


Toilet bowl cleaner container distorts flushing action

Step one - does removing the jar solve the problem?
Step two - can the jar be placed differently in the tank, and if so,
does the problem recur?

It's probably not the volume, and it may simply be the case that this type of toilet cleaner is not compatible with the hydraulics of your toilet tank (which can be quite sophisticated in modern low-flush toilets, so adding an obstacle that might not have bothered an old 5 gallons-per-flush toilet may simply no longer be an option - in which case you need to clean the toilet another way...)


What kind of paint/stain will prevent bees?

Paint it or seal it and add Bug Juice to to the paint/stain/sealer. You can read about bug juice here.


Do I need a disconnect switch for my mini-split air conditioner?

It is legally mandated, and part of the National Electrical Code (NFPA70). NEC is adopted across most of the US.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 440 Air-conditioning and Refrigerating Equipment
440.14 Location. Disconnecting means shall be located within sight from and readily accessible from the air-conditioning or refrigerating equipment. The disconnecting means shall be permitted to be installed on or within the air-conditioning or refrigerating equipment.
The disconnecting means shall not be located on panels that are designed to allow access to the air-conditioning or refrigeration equipment or to obscure the equipment nameplate(s).

It's largely a safety precaution to ensure the power is off if someone is servicing the unit.
If your breaker panel is 20' away and within sight of the unit, it's probably acceptable as a disconnect means but of course your AHJ (inspector) will have to agree. If you can't see it, you'll have to put in a separate disconnecting means.


You can use any biodegradable material for this purpose, including weeds, grass clippings, newspaper, napkins, pizza boxes, cardboard, hay and straw that has gone bad, wood chips, wood shavings, and sawdust.


Are adapters unsafe? Plug G to plug F (UK to Sweden)

I'm thinking of buying an instant pot

The good news is that the specifications for that instant pot say it comes with both UK and Schuko power cables. So you shouldn't need to adapt anything.

  Are adapters unsafe?

There are a few issues with adaptors.

There are a lot of really shoddy adapters out there.
Many adaptors do not provide an earth connection.
Many adapters try to generalise supporting multiple plug and/or socket types, but at the expense of a looser fit and/or a smaller contact area.
Many adapters have a lower current rating than the sockets they adapt between.
The extra weight and leverage puts more stress on the socket.

If it's a well-made adaptor that has correctly sized (4.8mm not 4mm) pins, the correct Schuko retention features, an intact earth path, a sufficient current rating and a socket designed specifically to take a BS1363 plug then it's probably safe enough but still for long-term use I would always favour changing the plug or cord over using an adapter.

Also be aware that Schuko plugs are unpolarised, so live and neutral may end up swapped. For modern equipment built to IEC standards this shouldn't be an issue but for vintage equipment or home-built stuff it may be.


If it was easy to do, then the tile would become scratched up merely by walking on it. Your feet scuffing the floor with a little dirt there would cause scratches. Tile is used for a purpose - it has a tough, hard surface.

Next, you must consider if the tile color goes all the way through, or if it is simply a surface glaze. If the color goes all the way through, then you could erode some of the surface and still see the proper color. Often however, tile will be a different color underneath.

Best is to replace the tile. This is not as difficult as it seems, IF you have a replacement tile. Always keep spare tiles for just this purpose when a floor is done. (Also carpet fragments, etc.) Surprisingly, it is often possible to find matching tile in tile stores, even for older floors.

Replacing the tile requires chiseling out the grout (or using a grout removal tool) then a cold chisel will help to break up and remove the bad tile. (An air powered chisel is great here.) Clean off any adhesive still on the underlayment. Then carefully butter the new tile, put in place, and regrout with a grout that will match the color of your old grout.


Is it possible to earthquake-proof furniture when you have plaster walls?

FEMA Earthquake Prep

According to the PDF, page 5-3

  Figure 2 shows methods to anchor heavy, tall furniture to
  vertical wall studs, concrete, or  masonry with steel angle
  brackets.
  Fasten heavy objects to the building structure and not just
  to a movable wall in your home or office.
  Even large, heavy objects that appear stable should be
  secured to the wall.  The heavier the furniture, the stronger
  the restraints need to be.  A heavily loaded file cabinet
  requires much stronger restraints to keep it from
  overturning than a light file cabinet with the same
  dimensions.

Plaster walls in this case are no different from drywall walls. The strength is in the vertical 2x4 structure, not the materials used to make it pretty.

Secure the furniture to the wall studs and at the floor if you can. Keep tall items away from beds and door and keep a flashlight close by.


Chinese Power Supply 180-260v on US 220v Electric

There are several issues here. But the good news is, you erred on the side of overdesign, so it'll be easy to put it right, and you'll wind up with a fair bit of spare capacity.  For instance, running 6/3 was a great move.  It didn't add much cost and it gave you versatility you can put to good use.

That power supply

The power supply is rated at 1300W output.  One aspect of its cheap Cheeseness and lack of UL listing is that it doesn't have a nameplate power rating, or the power it needs from the power grid. This differs from output rating by a) power supply efficiency, and b) power factor. Skipping the gory details, I'm going to SWAG-guess the nameplate at 1800 VA.  The numbers work out reasonably well if I do that.

(feel free to google VA and how it differs from Watts).

Aside from that "reality check", this will be a continuous load so we must do a derate of 125%.  That means we need to provision a circuit for 125% of 1800 VA, or 2250 VA.

This is just within the 2400 VA capacity of a 120V/20A circuit.  You would need a step-up transformer, but this would supply correct neutral to the power supply.
Two would just fit on a 240V/20A circuit (4800 VA)
only one would fit on a 240V/15A circuit (3600 VA).

Your 60A circuit has 240V x 60A = 14,400 VA.  You won't have any trouble provisioning three 2250W loads on the circuit.  In fact, you could get six.

Powering the units, and neutral

RedGrittyBrick points out a serious issue. These units are made to be connected to hot and neutral.  In USA 240V power, there's no neutral, it's hot and hot. The neutral on the power supply would need to be insulated to tolerate being 120V from ground, and it may not be.  If only the factory could advise you!   Regardless, here's how to fix it.

They make "step-up, step-down" transformers.  You supply 120V at 20A (2400 VA) to the transformer.  It passes the neutral straight through (so that is satisfied). Then it doubles the voltage of the "hot" wire, giving you exactly the right thing: 240V and neutral.

Supplying 120V is possible because you used /3 cable.

Power distribution off 60A

You can't just hotwire all 3 power supplies to a 60A main, especially when they're cheap units. Putting a 1800W unit on a 14,400W circuit breaker is nearly worthless, because the trip point (14,400W) is so very much higher than the rating of the power supply (1800W).  You need more sensible breaker sizes.

How to safely split up that 60A supply:

PDU. Your first option to distribute power is a PDU, which is computer equipment made to sit on the bottom of a rack, take a fat power connection, and distribute it to individual servers in the rack, with sensible circuit protection.   However PDUs are expensive, and subpanels are cheap.

A quality QO panel is about $45, a cheapie BR $22, breakers are $5 or $9 for 240V types.

Subpanel.  Normally I recommend the biggest subpanel you can afford.  But in this case, there's no use for more than 8-13 spaces (it's rated current must be at least 60A).  And then, you fit breakers like this.

If using step-up transformers, fit 3-6 120V/20A breakers (2400VA each).
If using 240V, use three 20A breakers (4800 VA) and put up to 2 servers per circuit.
Or using 240V, use 3-6 15A breakers (3600 VA) with 1 server per circuit.

Note in the 120V example, you really have to watch breaker placement for the servers. Place the server breakers in pairs side by side, just like 2-pole breakers. Do not put the 6 server breakers in the top 3 rows. The aux circuit is for small loads like monitors, switches etc.

Don't parallel.  Use three subpanels.

Neutral and ground must be separated in the subpanel, so add an accessory ground bar ($5) and remove the green screw on the neutral bar to unground it.  This makes 120V available.


An impact wrench will do it if the head is not stripped like the one in the photo. As noted , keep high down force to prevent stripping the heads. My Makita has given excellent service.


Meter shows hot but my outlets in my living room not working

I assume this is a change in behavior? You need to follow the path of this circuit to see where it loses power. Turn off the breaker and pull out the last fixture that has power and the first that doesn't. It might be something as simple as a receptacle that was wired with push-in connector that lost contact. I would pull any push-in (aka "backstabbed") receptacle connectors and wire to the screws instead.


Replacing old 60's junction box with recessed lighting

I would go with a flat panel LED fixture.

It is Not recessed but it is very thin and unobtrusive. No modifications to ceiling would be required.

The other option is to cut a new hole adjacent to the box ( same joist cavity ) and fish a wire to the hole for new No-can recessed light and put a cover plate on the old box.


Does the pressure valve on the wall need to replaced

Having replaced the water heater in my home recently, and also having a surprise needed replacement of the pressure reducing valve too, I can sympathies with your situation.

If you are just replacing the Pressure-Reducing valve for your home, you can find Pressure-Reducing valves from $50 to $150 at your local big box home improvement store. For our project we spent around $95 to match the size of the threads to the previous arrangment.

Also when working on hot water heaters and valves, I learned that this is also the time to have a Expansion tank installed, or replaced. If this is also something in the agenda, you are looking at around $40-90 at the same retail outlet.

Also factor in cost for copper / pex, etc fittings, and any tools that you need and there should be your cost to do it yourself.

Depending on the plumbing in the home, it could take anywhere from minutes to hours (like mine) to replace. I'd recommend having someone confident in the task to complete the job. It's possible to do it on your own, just make sure to do your thorough research.

If possible, request a itemized list of expenses for the project to help you understand the high cost. If unable to be provided with that, I'd recommend shopping around for another plumber as this does seem high.


What is the best way to remove and prevent leaf stains on concrete pavers?

The tannins from oak leaves will leave stains behind. I would suggest not worrying about it. Those stains are just character, part of nature. Choose to appreciate nature.

You could probably bleach them out (using simple chlorine bleach or oxalic acid), but why? Why introduce harmful chemicals into the area that may hurt you or damage your plants? Besides, the bleach may not get everything consistently the same color as it was. So you may just leave yourself with another problem to solve.

Sunlight will cause them to fade over time anyway, and as other stains occur, the pavers will become randomly stained, eventually all to the same color.


What kind of pump control switch can I use to detect the presence of water pressure?

Edit: I think I misread your question, your only water pressure is from gravity? I assumed your water supply was pressurized. You want something to sense the water level in the tank to cycle the pump, not pressure or flow related.

Sensing water flow is more complicated than just sensing water pressure. A SPDT water pressure switch can be installed at the water pump inlet to power the pump when it senses water pressure at the pump, and cuts power if it doesn't sense water pressure. This way the pump always runs when the water supply is on, and never runs when the water supply is off.

Ideally you'd have an electric circuit that opens a solenoid water valve for your supply and powers the pump at the same time, being activated by a water level float or sensor in your tank.

I use the same switch for my reverse osmosis water filter. I have an AquaTec SPDT pressure switch that prevents the booster pump from running if there is less than 20 psi supply water pressure. That way it never runs if there is a problem with the supply, because it would run nonstop and eventually burn out the booster. Technically it wouldn't run dry, because air would have to be introduced into the system first which would be unlikely.


In answer to your question. Yes it is acceptable to connect your light fixture the same way. Line to red. White or neutral to white, and ground or bare to ground. Ground wires do not normally carry current unless there is a fault event, and can be run exposed. Best description is that are like an electrical safety valve, they are a secondary source to return a complete a fault back to the over current protection that prevents users from an electrical shock or burn hazard.


How do I wire a new ceiling light with power to the ceiling and 3-way switches?

What you have is power to the ceiling, and 3-Way switches.

My best guess, is to wire the two blacks together in the ceiling, with a wire nut.
One of the whites should be marked.  This will go to the Black of the fixture.  The other white wire should go to the white of the fixture.  And then connect the ground.

So the path will be  Panel Hot -> Black wire -> [ Switch Common -> Switch Travellers ->Switch common -> ] WHITE -> Light -> Panel Neutral.

the stuff in Brackets [] is in the wall, and you won't see it.

See this http://diy.blogoverflow.com/2012/01/poles-and-throws/ for more information on 3-way switches.


Try using oxalic acid - you may be able to buy it at the local hardware store as "wood bleach"; it comes in crystal form to be mixed with water.

Pity, though, to take that marvelous color out of sapele! Good thing you didn't buy bloodwood (muninga) or redheart... 8)


Connecting a C-wire to a Burnham Independence Boiler

Connect C to the wire-nutted bundle of yellow wires

According to the manual for your unit, the C-wire coming off your transformer is a yellow wire (we know this because the manual has it connected to ground, among other things), that is joined with that green grounding wire and a bunch of other yellow wires, including one to the vent damper plug.  Given that the vent damper connector is likely the plug we see at the bottom of your photos, based on the wire colors going to it, we can then deduce that the junction of yellow wires in your photos is where your C wire should connect to.


Is there a easy way to procure muriatic acid to "faux antique" a mirror?

You need to find a better hardware store. FWIW, you can order it online:

http://www.amazon.com/s?field-keywords=muratic%20acid


What kind of drain rod do I need to get around this bend?

Not sure where you're from, but here in the US we'd use a plumber's snake (also known as a "drain auger", or simply "snake", or "auger") to clear the drain.  A snake is quite flexible, and should have no problem getting into that drain. You might, however, have to remove the drain cover to get the snake in (depending on the size of the snake).

"Handheld-Drain-Auger" by Pgdp123 - Own work. Licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Commons


It's a plug that accepts Hubbell's 1906 tandem and 1912(?) parallel plugs. Both were rated for a maximum of 250v, but usually wired for 120.

Similar rating to Edison 1" (now called E26), most are rated for up to 250v, but we commonly see them used only for 120v.


What you just described are backstab connections and that kind of failure is typical with them.

The exposed wire you saw isn't good, but it may have just been a matter of the insulation being stripped too far back.  It's also possible they cut the insulation correctly then didn't jab it in far enough.  Regardless, backstabs are a low quality way to make that connection, and will tend to do this even if done by the book.

Your problems will be cured by switching to either side-screw connections already on the socket, or the "screw-to-clamp" type connections used by Leviton.  Those Prograde outlets cost $3.  Any competent handyman who owns a torque screwdriver can handle this task, so hit Taskrabbit or Craigslist.

Also have the handyman check the wire and compare it to the breaker. The breaker rating must match the wire capacity, sometimes fools  change the breaker to too large a value, risking a fire.  The fact that the wire was in backstabs means it is almost certainly 14 AWG, which means it should be a 15A breaker.

All that, however, does not take you "off the hook" for overloading the circuit.  I suggest getting a Kill-a-Watt power measurement device and find out what your devices draw. Most of the things on your list (together) don't worry me, but PCs can be a real wildcard. A gaming PC with a top video card can absolutely push that circuit over the edge.


I think the pocket hole screws will hold fine for assembling the headboard and foot board, but for where the rails connect to the legs of the headboard and foot board you'll want to go a different route.

Bed frames get a lot of forces applied to them from different angles. Supporting weight is only part of the equation. The joints between the rails and the foot board and headboard have to withstand racking from side to side and backwards and forwards. A lot of those forces would be directed against the bit of wood at the base of the pocket holes that attach the rails to the "legs" of the bed. The problem with pocket screws is they can pull out or loosen significantly after a few years of use. Maybe they won't...but they might, and there's only so much re-tightening you can do.

The biggest problem that I see with using pocket screws where the rails connect to the legs, is the difficulty in disassembling the bed frame for moving it and so forth--especially since some of the pocket holes in the rails end up being covered up by other pieces of wood that the plans call for gluing in place.

A queen size bed frame made of solid lumber is going to be large and quite heavy when completed, and chances are you're going to want to move it someday--To the other side of the room, to a different room, to a different floor, or a different residence. (Have fun with the stairs or loading it into a vehicle!)

I would strongly recommend that you make use of a bracket of some sort or bed bolts to fasten the rails to the head and foot boards so that you can take it all apart relatively easily.

I've specifically used the Rockler brackets in the example and can attest to their strength, etc. Those guys are very solid, and have a "safety screw" to ensure that things stay locked in place. There are many types/styles made by numerous manufacturers.

Bed bolts are another good option, and have been used for maybe hundreds of years. (The guy in the video makes installing the bed bolts a lot harder than it has to be...but he does a good job.) You'll probably want to cover the exposed bed bolts (if you go that route) but they make bed bolt covers or you could make something out of wood to match the "rustic" style of the bed frame, too.

The brackets and bolts are potentially stronger than pocket screws and will take a bit more "abuse" over the years, too. The pocket screws might not fare as well after a few years of "rigorous movement" on the bed.


Does this GFCI need a sticker for code-compliance?

The NEC in 250.130(C) now requires extending an Equipment Ground Conductor to the grounding system when making an extension of a two-wire circuit that does not have an EGC.
If your circuit was extended before the current requirement or was extended by local exception then the receptacle needs to be marked " No Equipment Ground" and the ground should be left disconnected.

406.4 General Installation Requirements (D) Replacements
406.4(D)(2) Non–Grounding-Type Receptacles. Where attachment to an equipment grounding conductor does not exist in the receptacle
enclosure, the installation shall comply with (D)(2)(a), (D)(2)(b), or
(D)(2)(c).
(a) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be
replaced with another non–grounding-type receptacle(s).
(b) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be
replaced with a ground-fault circuit interrupter-type of
receptacle(s). These receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked
“No Equipment Ground.” An equipment grounding conductor shall not be
connected from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter-type receptacle to
any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter
receptacle.
(c) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be
replaced with a grounding-type receptacle(s) where supplied through a
ground-fault circuit interrupter. Where grounding-type receptacles are
supplied through the ground-fault circuit interrupter, grounding-type
receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “GFCI Protected” and
“No Equipment Ground,” visible after installation. An equipment
grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding-type
receptacles.
Informational Note No. 1: Some equipment or appliance manufacturers
require that the branch circuit to the equipment or appliance includes
an equipment grounding conductor.
Informational Note No. 2: See 250.114 for a list of a cord-and-plug-
connected equipment or appliances that require an equipment grounding
conductor.


I am a commercial door guy and that bolt is what holds your track together. Your issue is the misaligned track at the joint.


How do I change a bulb in flush mounted light fixture?

Some fixtures are "spring" loaded pulling straight down may release or let the cover be lowered enough to change the bulb.  If it is this type after changing the bulb push straight up and it will snap back in place.


Kitchen cupboard replacement hinges too close: How to fix?

If your doors are overlapping, you simply need another set of hinges with a larger overlay. The hinges in the link are 1/2" overlay and if that is what you are using there, you need to get a set of hinges with a 3/4" overlay. These are also known as "full overlay" hinges


General rule is 1/3 of the post needs to be in the ground. However, if the aim is to get a lot of height, consider going with an a-frame structure--essentially a swing set.

Instead of burying anything in the ground, anchor it with earth screws (essentially a large screw used to anchor swing sets).

So if you are using 12' lengths, and the base is 6' apart, you could still have about 11' of height without having to bury them at all (albeit you'll need extra material to make it an a-frame with two sides + cross bracing)


Where can I find a cover for this external breaker box (1961 SFH in CA)?

Uh-oh, it's a Zinsco!
Unfortunately, just buying a new door isn't enough to restore this panel to a serviceable condition, as it's a Zinsco (from the design of the breakers), with its attendant breaker-to-busbar contact issues.  If that wasn't enough, independent testing has shown Zinsco breakers to be both miscalibrated and unreliable, with issues with jamming or simply failing to shut the power off when switched off.  So, I'd have the whole box replaced with something of a current make and model that won't fail in such a way.


How to best join baseboard to tile trim on wall?

This is more a matter of opinion than anything where one way is clearly best.

I'd likely mitre the end of the board, and trim so the end of the mitre was the same thickness as the tile trim, and either butt them together or leave a gap and caulk it.


What materials could be used instead of cement for a water-tight trench

Note that cement (or, rather, concrete) in and of itself isn't going to hold water. It's still have to be waterproofed.

I don't know the dimensions or schematics, but my first thought would be a pond liner (basically, giant rubber sheets) and then topped with sand or other material to provide the traction.

I think a bigger issue might be to figure out how to maintain it, though. I imagine this water could get pretty nasty after a while without some form of filtration system.


Does the orientation of the 'Y' in the wye strainer matter?

I think it is understood the because of the force of gravity settling debris to the lowest point, the best orientation would be down. The screen assembly is located in the 'Y' branch.


Latch won't retract into my door unless I turn the knob

I think a little lubrication will fix this.  Try turning the knob so the latch is retracted and spraying a little lube into the hole where the latch goes.  Use the little straw that comes with the spray can, and get it as far in as you can.  Spray very sparingly.  Then turn the knob back and forth to work the latch.  See if it's working any better, and repeat if necessary.  A shot in the keyhole as well won't hurt, while you're at it.

If this doesn't do it, you may have to remove the doorknob / lockset and remove the latch to apply the lubricant more thoroughly - but I doubt it will be necessary.

For the lubricant - some people agonize over what to use, I do not, WD-40 or a good quality silicone spray will be fine.


(Solved) Electrical receptacle box has only 2 wires (white and black, no ground), but both are hot so no neutral? Can't figure out why?

Wait, are they metal boxes?  Are the wires in conduit or AC cable?  The conduit/cable is a valid ground path.

Your neutral is that way because neutral is disconnected somewhere between this point and your panel.  Somewhere on this side of it, you have a load plugged in, and it's pulling the voltage up toward 120V.