Remove all the food, then turn off or unplug the freezer, and prop the door open. This will allow it to warm up and all the ice will melt all by itself.
Every modern fridge/freezer I've ever seen (modern as in 1970s or newer) has a drain hole at the bottom of the compartment and a hose that runs to the drip pan that's behind the trim plate at the bottom of the fridge. Generally a good tug will remove the trim plate, though if yours doesn't come off easily you may want to look for screws.
Remove the trim plate and you'll see the drip pan under there for catching any drips that go down the drains in either compartment. Keep an eye on this catch pan to ensure it doesn't overflow. Soak the water out with some towels that you can ring out over the tub, or scoop it out with a small cup if there's enough room. It's possible that the water will evaporate out nearly as fast as it melts in if your room is warm enough.
Once all the ice is melted out, plug in/turn on the unit, let it get cold, put the food back in.


Screwing into the grout line between glass tiles

The question you want to ask is, how important is it for me NOT to crack any of the glass tiles? If I were doing it, I would say VERY important, as replacing the broken glass tiles would be a major hassle. I would recommend getting the diamond or abrasive drill bit regardless, and then using it even if you do put your screws in through the grout lines. Make sure your screws are smaller in diameter than these holes - you don't want to stress the glass tiles, whether through a grout line or directly through a tile. As a bonus, if you go ahead with the drill bit, you have the flexibility of putting the shelf anwy


Many homes suffer from low pressure/flow issues for various reasons. This regular drop in pressure/flow seems to indicate an external problem, such as a large water user (commercial or industrial) using water from your water main line for some automated process.

Also, check with your water distribution entity to see if they have changed the way they regulate or maintain water delivery pressures (most use pumps).

As for a fix, if one of the aforementioned causes turn out to be true, it may take some diplomatic activism (or maybe some not so diplomatic activism).


304 will rust, to an extent. It's not shocking or surprising. Plenty of examples if you do an image search - in my case, personal experience.
However, my best guess on that very isolated spot is that it may have had a speck of regular carbon steel from the manufacturing process, which rusted there.


Either way sealing is the issue.
Then in the future when you get rid of the bath for an open shower you have to get more tiles... unless you purchase sufficient now... which means you may as well fit them... but will they look “cleaner” since they were hidden?


How can I hang a skateboard deck on the wall?

Are the holes for the truck already drilled? If so, a long enough screw with a block of wood used as a spacer to clear the kicktail(s) would let you mount it almost invisibly. (I'm assuming you want to show off the underside of the deck)


using deck screw instead of Yellow zinc construction screw？

Stainless steel is corrosion resistant ; the various paints and coatings are not  ( in spite of creative names ). In my location , any deckcrew that is not stainless, rusts to useless in about 15 years . Rust rate depends on how much time they are damp. And, even with proper clearance and pilot holes ,the coatings are degraded when driven in


Normal settling cracks, would not be worried about it structurally.
But...
Is it sleeved? Is there a metal pipe inside the chimney?
Most municipalities now require you to sleeve a masonry chimney that is carrying CO2 or any other potentially dangerous gas that might leak into your house. Even if you can’t see the cracks, they are there. By running a metal pipe from the furnace or water heater to above the roof line, you ensure that gasses can’t leak out and circulate inside the structure.


Does drywall surrounding breaker panel pose fire risk?

You're going to need to unmount this box and move it forward slightly, because there's no other way out of this situation
The root cause of your issues is that the drywall was inserted as an (improper) "shim" to work around the fact that your breaker panel was mounted too deeply into the wall.  You see, not only does the current situation violate NEC 312.4 due to the hole in the top left by the missing drywall, but most plug-on breakers rely on the cover at least somewhat to prevent breakers from "tipping" out as Harper illustrates (the friction of the jaws on the stab also helps retain the breaker, but putting forces on that isn't good for the electrical contact surface there).  Furthermore, whacking a replacement surface mount cover on the box is no good because that causes the finish surface of the wall to infringe on the NEC 110.26(A) clear working space of the panel, even if you were OK with living with the finish issues a surface mounted enclosure poses when mounted in a finished wall.
So, you'll need to have your electric utility kill power at your meter to let you adjust how this panel's mounted; fortunately, most power companies can do that for free these days as long as you call within normal business hours, thanks to the rise of smart meters.  Once the power's off, you can then remove the existing mounting screws, slide ½" plywood shims behind the panel, then screw the panel back in through the shims so that it sits flush with the finish wall.  With that out of the way, you can mount the flush cover back to the box and have it mostly corrected, although there is merit to patching the hole above the box once you have it moved forward to the correct depth.


Three feet doesn't sound like much, but for a high-stress beam it is. You'll probably need to convert from solid wood to LVL or steel at a prescribed size.  As you say, most of the weight of the home is on the block foundation. That still leaves a few tons on the beam, and you don't guess with that kind of load.

The larger problem, though, is that you may not have a footing where you'd like the post to go. It's typical to see a 36" square footing poured under the slab at point locations such as this, and you'd need to cut open the floor to add a new footing (10-12" thick on undisturbed soil). Not doing so would probably result in settling and cracking of the slab, and therefore sagging of your house in undesirable ways.

Get a professional to take a look with you. This is no question for a bunch of yahoos on the internet.


No problem.   Two circuits can share a box, and even serve different switches or outlets in the same box. Be careful to keep hots and neutrals separate.

For instance a household member really likes running the hair dryer and curler at the same time.  Nothing stops you from running dual 12/2 to the bathroom receptacle, splitting hot and neutral tabs, and serving each socket from a dedicated GFCI breaker.

You could even do that with different main services, e.g. The above but with one side served with mains power, the other from a separately derived PV or generator system.  However you would need to distinguish each system with different wire markings or colors.  This is why gray is an allowed neutral color.


Can I combine 2x4 lumber to build posts for barn?

To partially reiterate my comment, that's a common strategy even for commercial buildings, but for that length you should be using 2x6. So the answer is "yes".

However, the specifics are important. Adequate lap, joint scatter, and fastener type and schedule are all critical factors in your success.


As long as you have sufficient slope to the drain you are okay.  Typically 1/4" per foot.


DIN 985 appears to be the old name for what is now called ISO 7040
Which describes hex nuts with a nonmetallic insert, stating their dimensions etc.

If there a likelyhood of exposure to dampness I would reccomend using aluminium or stainless steel fasteners.


Do I need a floor drain for the water heater in my townhome?

I am currently running a 1995 rheem gas water heater.  I've flushed it once.  I've never replaced the anode.
I installed a floodsafe water detector shutoff solonoid so that if a leak on the floor occurs the cold water supply is shutoff from the hot water tank.
I have a floor drain which goes to a plastic sump basin with pump that is embedded in the slab.
I put a piece of weatherstripping on the bottom of the interior side of the door so that water won't flood out of the utility room.  My walls are concrete board and the floor is concrete.
I am thinking about replacing mine but should it fail in the meantime it shouldn't be too terrible.
A reasonable fix for you might just be to drill a 4" hole through your slab into the drainage layer below the slab which should be gravel.  Add a floor drain cover and call it a day (unless you live in a high radon area - even then with a gas hwt you are likely pulling enough air out of that room ).  Add the solonoid shut off and choose waterproof materials for that room (turn it into a pseudo shower base) so the water doesn't migrate out of the room and can drain out through the hole you punched in your slab should it fail.


Wiring the Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch

The problem is, these products are conceived of by techno-geeks who are interested in the smart-home tech.  Silly things like physical wiring connections are really not "thought through" in any way.

Normally electrical equipment must meet the Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) "White Book" standard, and get passed either by UL or a competing lab such as CSA or ETL. These things are pushed into the marketplace fast and cheap, bypassing that - either by direct ship from China, or dropshipped via Amazon (same effect).  That's why Home Depot doesn't sell them - they can't. Even Amazon proper won't sell it, which is why it shows up in the Amazon Marketplace flea market.  Mains equipment should never be bought there, nor from Banggood, DealExtreme, eBay, or AliExpress.

Right off the bat, UL would never list an item with such utterly bizarre cable and conduit attachment points.  It looks like it was designed by someone with no familiarity of US wiring methods, just "freestylin'".  Another obvious redflag is the lack of wire bending space and simple cubic inches for the connection. You can't cram wires like that unless they are plugs.  Even their product illustration shows a wiring method that violates NEC in several ways, including unclamped sheath (and they are showing North American wire colors, so no excuse).  There simply isn't enough room in the device to make proper splices.

How do you fit it to Code?

You don't.  On the first page of Code you have NEC 110.2, which requires equipment be approved. That's officially the AHJ's call, but they universally defer to UL and other NRTLs. Without a UL etc. stamp, it will not be approved.  CE is not a testing lab.

But there are so few high-amperage smart relays. What do I do?

The problem is you're trying to combine two things (high current switching, and smart gadget) into a single device.  You don't need to.

You can split up the job.  First, have any low-voltage smart controller that talks to your network and has a relay output capable of handling 50 ma at 24 volts. That's not a big requirement.  Being an entirely low-voltage device, it doesn't even need to be UL listed.  So perhaps in the $10 range, $20 at most if you find someone who is not overcharging you.

Then, you have a UL-listed transformer creating 24 V AC, then you have a UL-listed contactor actually throw the big load.  As separates, each is available in the $15 range. The transformer mounts in a knockout or as a junction box cover. The contactors vary.

You can also get combo contactor-transformers in a couple of form factors:

Goes in a knockout, such as the "Aube" relays. They have a tiny transformer just big enough to operate the relay.  The device simply gives you 2 low-voltage terminals with 24V on them: you short them, or you don't. They typically also give you access to both sides of the transformer, say if you wanted to power the smart module off the 24V transformer.
A larger transformer-contactor combination that replaces a junction box lid ($50-90).  The device smartly puts the mains voltage on the "inside" and the thermostat wires on the outside, which complies with Code requirements to do just that.


Old house, no ground wire, hoping for protection of new computer?

You are correct about GFCIs or ground fault devices.  In an ungrounded situation, GFCIs are a cure-all for life safety, but they do absolutely nothing to reduce ESD damage to equipment.  For that you need proper grounds.

Normally, when a technical person says they are reluctant to mess about with mains power, I encourage them to listen to that voice.  However, in 2014, they broadly legalized retrofitting grounds.  And retrofitting grounds is a job that matches well with knowledge that is "technical, but not electrical", or that is "electrical, the wrong kind".

Retrofitting grounds is, in a nutshell, you run a ground-wire backbone between all your heavy appliances (A/C, range, water heater, dryer) and the braided copper grounding elecrodes leaving your panel.  This is done in 10 AWG wire.

Then, off that, you branch outward to all the other outlets.  Any outlet needs to either reach the backbone, or another outlet that reaches the backbone and has large enough ground wire all the way back.  Best to use #12 wire for this.

If the boxes are metal it is sufficient to clip it onto the edge of the box.  Otherwise adding the grounds is no more difficult than changing a receptacle or switch.

You put the ground wires wherever practical, it's not important to follow the same route as the conductors.  (You won't get EMF loops and eddy current heating because grounds don't carry current except during fault conditions.

Now, lastly, the old conductors.  Another device is a cure-all for ratty old conductors also: the AFCI or arc-fault breaker.  It looks (literally, it listens) for loose connections, inter-wire shorts, or other arcing - it's that scratchy "hooking up speakers with the amp turned on" or "jiggle your headphones in the jack" sound.  They are about $40 a pop, or you can get a combo AFCI/GFCI breaker for about $50.  Unlike GFCI, AFCI needs to be at the breaker because it protects the wiring, not the outlet.


What are reasonable expectations for LVP floor installation?

All floating floors are inevitably going to move a little when walked on, however any remaining thinset or glue residue or sheetrock mud clumps etc. should be scraped/ removed to an acceptable standard ( Coretec requires no "hump" exceeding 3/16" in a 10 foot radius)  failure to do so will result in excessive movement of the floor in the soft areas surrounding the hump.


Cut cable tripped breaker and left circuit dead after reset

It's very unlikely the wiring in the walls was damaged. Usually what happens is a weak connection gets fried by the short circuit.  As many others have mentioned previously here, these failures are often the result of the infamous "back stab" outlets.  You might have to take out several of them (WITH THE POWER OFF) and inspect for loose connections or obvious damage. If no damage found and the outlets removed and carefully placed, turn the power back on and start testing.

To clarify, did you get a spark when you cut the excess wire? I would have been quite noticeable.   Also, what type of breaker is it?  Arc fault? Ground fault? Did you test at the breaker panel to see if you have power coming out of the breaker?

This may take some detective work here, but to allay your fear, it's not likely a failure of wires in the wall.


How should I fix a small crack hole in Mirolin 3-piece tub/shower?

Depending on where the crack/hole is, I would wonder about the support underneath the acrylic of the tub. Was the crack/hole caused by some part of the tub that was not supported getting flexed too much under regular use? If so, then I might doubt the repair kit myself. However, if the crack/hole was just due to some sharp object hitting the tub, then I suppose it will work fine. However, if it is a support issue, you might as well try the repair kit, because your other alternative is pulling the whole thing out to try to fix the lack of support, which sounds like a huge job. Just my $0.02 worth.
Hope this helps.


Part 2 Another Question Regarding the Correct Wiring Involving a Light Switch and an Outlet

You connect the black wire of the cable going to the receptacle to the black (line hot) of the cable on the left. You connect the white wire of the cable going to the receptacle to the white neutral and connect the ground.

Before you do this you could examine the receptacle to determine that the receptacle is wired correctly or you could just connect it and test the receptacle with a circuit tester. The black wire should be go to the shorter slot and the white wire to the longer slot. If you have a multimeter, you can plug an extension cord into the receptacle and verify the hot neutral conections before you connect.


If you're intent on replacing the outlet rather than the refrigerator's plug, and want it to be safe, you can replace the 15A outlet with a box that has a 5A circuit breaker feeding a 5A outlet.

You can also keep the 15A outlet and have the above mentioned box as an adapter that connects to the 15A outlet with a 15A plug.


How do I install a pre-hung door in a thick exterior wall?

This is not an easy question.  I would have to know the actual dimensions of the existing opening and a better look at the whole door frame.  In most cases, I'd be tempted to gut the opening and reframe it to accept a new pre-hung. In your case you need a pre-hung without trim as you will need to install extension jams and finish it out. The door should be mounted fairly close to the interior and have the excess outdoors. This is not a real difficult job, but definitely not for an inexperienced DIYer. There is going to be framing, water/weather proofing, squaring/installing the door, and finish work. You will definately need a circular saw, table saw, 4 or 6 foot level and some air guns would be nice to have to make it a lot easier.


How full can my sump pit get before I should worry?

It should definately come on before the water gets to that level. Is the float the kind that has its cord clamped to a pipe and it swings up and down? If its that kind, make sure that its not hung up on anything. You may need to manually run the pump to empty the water and troubleshoot the float. Lift it and see if the pump comes on. Does the float have a separate cord that plugs into the outlet and then the pump plugs into the back of the floats plug?

I agree that it should pump more than a half inch per minute. I would think it would be normal to empty the tank in around 20-30 seconds.


Is it worth it to replace old style breakers with GFCI or AFCI breakers?

It's probably a good idea for both.  A GFCI measures the difference between current into a circuit on the live wire and current out of it on the neutral; the ground wire just helps to make sure that in an electrical fault, the current isn't passing through you to ground.  So a GFCI would be good in the places that current code calls for them: kitchens, bathrooms and outdoor circuits.

Same for the AFCIs: they help detect faults due to damaged wiring.  With BX cable, that damage is less likely to be caused by driving a nail or screw through the cable than it might be with NM cable, but you still have the possibility of loose connections in your receptacles, or damage to electrical cords going to your appliances.

Another thing to consider: if you have older wiring, you may also have older breakers.  If you're replacing some of them with GFCIs or AFCIs, you might think about having the rest of them replaced with newer breakers.


Ensure that a closed door is a completely locked door?

Talk to a competent lock dealer and ask about a storeroom lock-set.

This is intended for secure office store-rooms, where there would never be a reason to leave the door unlocked.  From the inside, the handle always allows egress.  From the outside, the door cannot be opened without a key, period.  There is not push or twist button to make the door stay unlocked.


How should I connect a grounding wire from a device to this box?

That wiring is AC cable, modern AC cable. I can clearly see the bonding strip that makes the sheathing a grounding conductor. So since a grounding means exists you must use it.

With switches, simply screwing them to a grounded metallic box grounds them, as opposed to a receptacle which would need to be a self-grounding type. So technically, just installing the switch would be adequate, but since there is a ground wire from the dimmer I would connect it to the box.


Firstly, I don't know what your specific situation is, but it sounds like what you're trying to do might be illegal. You're potentially messing with people's emergency services (911 access) and Verizon might own the cable you're trying to mess with. But, I'll assume you've worked this out somehow, and take no responsibility for your actions.

I used to work on telecom and have done cutovers on live copper. It's easy; much easier, but dirtier, than fiber.

Moving to a larger gauge wire is not ideal, mainly because splicing it together could be less reliable (the UR2 is designed for the same gauge wire), but otherwise will not cause any issues.

Using a temporary connection while cutting over is standard practice. We used some vampire clip jumpers (AKA ABN (Angled Bed-of-Nails) clips) to make a temporary bridge, cut out the old, made a new splice in the middle. The gel inside the UR2 (icky-pic) is to keep water out, not act as a conductor, so the vampire clips are just as good in the temporary situation. If someone is talking on the phone during the cutover they will probably hear something, but should not be too disrupted.

I encourage you to check the law on this. If you don't have permission and licensing then even if you're not caught in the act and Verizon later finds out someone illegally performed the exact thing you already got a quote for... Well, it's still illegal and they have a damn good idea who did it.


Is there a state mandated cap for electricity use in Spain?

I'm from Spain, and yes, your father is right there is a cap in terms of contracted power with the electrical company. In the contract you sign with the electrical company it's stated the maximum power you need (at the same time). For example, in my case I've a maximum contracted power of 5.75KW (with this power, I've never had problems having at the same time running the AC, the oven, the fridge, a computer, some lights, and the water heater). And to my knowledge, particulars (that's not companies) can contract a power up to 9.7KW.

So the bill depends on two factors, the amount of energy you've been using during a period of time (variable), and the maximum energy you've contracted (fixed amount). An easy way to slightly reduce the bill is contracting a lower maximum energy, but in that case you may face power cuts if you surpass this maximum in a given moment. If that's your father problem, he should call his power supplier and ask them to increase the maximum energy (they usually charge for this kind of changes, and moreover the bill will be proportionally higher). He can know this maximum looking at a bill (looking at "Potencia").

But it's strange what happens to you father, mainly taking in mind that it's a new house. New houses projects usually include a study of average electrical power needs, so that you contract the power according to the study to avoid cuts. So I'd not discard an internal wiring problem.


What to pay attention when putting flooring in the attic

Do I need to cover the insulation?
If there's a vapor barrier installed it'll be on the warm side. You can simply install flooring with nothing else over the insulation. I'd probably install a vertical board near the edges of the space to prevent items from falling off the floor and to prevent contact with the insulation.

Are screws appropriate?
Sure. Whatever is convenient. As this isn't a living space, squeaks from foot traffic aren't a real concern.

Do I need to leave any space between the timber pieces in case they expand?
I assume you're referring to the floor joists. No. What you may need to allow is a gap between your flooring boards, depending on what you use. Extreme heat in the summer could cause buckling. Follow manufacturer recommendations.


Depending how you make your joints, if you choose to use screws, they need to go into the joining piece at least 3/4"-1" deep, and deeper when going into the end of a piece, 1 1/2" is a good depth, For this you can use a 2" screw, countersunk a little.
The drawing below, may have a little more info than what you are looking for, but it will give you options if you choose.

I would suggest putting a 1/4" thick plywood back, thinner will work too if available. I have cut this with a razor knife if you do not have a table saw. The back can be nailed on with 1' brads after the shelves are assembled

If you are not concerned about the looks and it will be a utility type shelf these are the screws I would use. Still nail the back on with 1" brads

Any of these countersinks will do what you need, make sure you keep your drill perpendicular to the wood and in the center of the shelf for the thickness, about 3/4" from the edge from the front and back.


How to interpret UL listing for NM Clamps stating diameter?

I would not interpret the catalog page that way.

APPLICATION: Used to connect non-metallic sheathed cable to a steel outlet box or othermetal enclosure. Dry location.
Fits NM cable, flex cords, multi-flex cords; fitting range .835 - 1.520” diameter or SE cable 2 conductor 4/0

That connector is made for a single cable.  There are small connectors that can be used to secure one or two 14-2 or 12-2 cables, and some specialty connectors that are made for more small cables, but these larger clamps are for a single large cable.


Can I use a terminal wire kit meant for a dryer on an electric range stove?

Wait.  You are paying $32 for four #12 pigtails?

No, return them, they are too small anyway.  They should be #6 (if the breaker is 50A) or #8 if the breaker is 40A, unless it is a factory authorized replacement part for your exact model.

I would just go to an electrical supply house with the burnt pigtail and see if they have those lugs, or better, a premade pigtail in that color.  It won't be $32.


Should I staple new wires to studs in an existing wall?

Wiring is stapled or otherwise fastened to protect it from damage, such as from fasteners used to hang decorations on the wall. You should staple per NEC guidelines. In your case, it's probably a matter of fastening to studs within a foot of each box.

If you anticipate needing to reconfigure the wiring later, run conduit accordingly.


When repairing a split table top, should I use dowels, biscuits, or something else?

Dowels are probably your best bet for this fix because the tool cost is much lower for the case that you need to purchase tools to do this repair. The cost of a doweling jig is much lower than a biscuit cutter. Drilling the dowel holes is easily accomplished with an electric drill.

If you end up with just a one inch wide repair strip added in then I would just drill the dowel holes right through the strip and into the original material on each side. Do check your table top pieces for overall flatness after you separate the two sides from the split. Warped lumber often develops a curvature that spans a greater distance than just one inch. You'll need to take this into account when you decide to start trimming away the split edges.

With properly jointed surfaces on the two trimmed edges and the hardwood accent piece the dowels and glue should be plenty strong to hold things together.

You may want to cut the accent piece just a small bit longer than the amount needed and then trim and sand it to the existing round table edges after the gluing is done. This will give you the greatest opportunity blend the edge of the table to the nicest fit and look.

I see some challenge in clamping the round table to get good tight glue joints. You may need to fabricate some jigs to help provide a place to engage your clamps across the width of the table. The sketch below shows one idea of how to do this. Some flat boards about 4 -> 5 inches wide can have some blocks glued and screwed on the ends that will provide a place to engage the clamps.

I have shown the blocks somewhat offset from where they would actually be attached to the boards so that you can see the nature of how they would fit to the contour of the table edge. Long bar clamps or pipe clamps would be spanned across the table top at the overhang of these boards as shown in the next picture.


What could cause my toilets to bubble and clear water to come out of the clean out pipe?

This sounds like your leach field is possibly blocked. That's the disaster scenario where you not only need the tank pumped, but the yard dug up and a new field placed.

Water from your laundry coming up in your tub is a sign that it's not draining to the septic system. This is either because there is a block in the system before the tank or because the tank is unable to accept any more water as it is plugged on the discharge / leach field side.

  When I opened up the clean out pipe clear water came out (about ten gallons). I shoved the hose down about 25 feet and it was running full force but it seemed like all the water coming out of the hose was draining back out of the clean out pipe.

... and that's the sign that it's doing option #2: the tank is full and failing to drain.


Single Ground Wire Run Under Floor Joists

Your #2 wire is large enough to be run without protection or a backer if running perpendicular to the joists in the basement ceiling. 250.64.B.3 requires wires smaller than #6 to be protected. The basement ceiling is considered a safe location and the specific height is not given. 334.15 provides the examples of attachment as you have mentioned.
I would caution that some older code answers are not current code as code has had significant changes in the last few cycles. (Each cycle is normally 3 years).


Should I install insulation between the rim joist and the top of foam insulation?

You can always spray foam over top edge of the wall layer of XPS, this ensures that there's no air leakage from behind the XPS on the wall going up.  I'd also make sure you caulk/tape all seams between XPS boards, and spray the bottoms/corners so it gets a real good seal from air movement.


What is this orange residue in my water heater?

That is rust from the cover you took off. It is harmless. If the water heater is in a laundry room, some water probably got splashed on the tank and ran down behind the cover.   The covers are never painted as good on the back as they are on the front so they rust easier there. The great news is there's no sign of rust inside by the thermostat and heating element. If it really bothers you, you can rub it down with some emery paper and spray some Rust-Oleum on it.


How tight does vent screen have to be, to keep out swarming termites?

Ants have a narrow body in the middle, termites have a solid body. It would take a fine mesh like screen doors to keep both critters out. 1/4" can let even wasps and other bees in.


How can I use a 120v generator to power both legs of my electrical panel?

Yes! That is correct.  Well done with  the MWBC investigation.
The cheap/fast answer is simple: Since you are familiar with MWBC, it is safe for you to rearrange your loads to place all your critical loads on one phase. For instance, that would mean powering only 1/2 of any MWBC.  Attach the 2-pole generator breaker in  the usual way, but only connect your "hot" to one leg.
For the sole purpose of researching which leg a load is on, it is OK to temporarily pull 1 wire off a 2-pole MWBC breaker, or defeat the handle-ties.  Just put it back when you're done :)
In fact make sure they are handle-tied while you are in there.


Problem- air condition- compressor and fan outside not on

I am not a HVAC tech but I do believe that is a high pressure switch that is tripping and there could be a couple of things going on with your unit. It is tripping to protect the compressor and fan from faulting. I would suggest calling a HVAC company to come take a look.


method to rout rope beading in door trim - rope bit or side cutting

The device you are showing is a router bit, for making ONE shape on the edge of a piece of wood. The moulding you want is made with a completely different tool called a "spindle moulder" that would have multiple knives in that shape to make that in one pass.


How to attach an anchor to a corner bead?

Corner bead is usually applied in places where you have solid lumber backing. I'd try this first to hang your hardware without anchors, which usually aren't intended to be used in wood:

Mark the location of your screw holes.
Find a drill bit that's just larger than the outer diameter (threads) of the screws you're using. Carefully drill just through the corner bead at all screw locations. It may be helpful to pilot with a smaller bit to prevent "walking" of the bit as you begin.
Find another drill bit the size of the screw shank or slightly smaller. Pilot about an inch into the lumber.
Mount your hardware. Do not overtighten, as you'll crack the drywall mud overlaying the bead and deform the bead.

If you find that your screws aren't long enough to get through 5/8 to 3/4" of drywall and bead plus enough wood to securely hold, stop by the hardware store and pick up longer ones. This is the right way to do this job, but you don't want your screws to tear out under load. Try to get at least 3/4" into the lumber.

If you find that you actually don't have lumber backing, you'll need to drill holes in the bead the size that the anchors call for. This can be quite large, and you run the risk that the bit catches the sheet metal and tears things loose. I don't recommend this approach. If you must do it, drill through a block of wood first, then hold it firmly over the bead as you drill through it. This should help prevent most damage. Again, don't overtighten the screws.


You can put a blank junction box cover on the box and connect with WET RATED WIRE to your OUTDOOR disconnect box 4 feet away.

I'd use conduit and THWN, you might choose 12/2 UF cable. Running interior dry type cable to exterior boxes is a code violation; a common one, but a violation never the less.


What prevents a toilet auger from fully extending into the toilet?

You found the clog, and it's worse than you thought it was! A chlid's toy? bar of soap? Cell phone?


What is the correct/conventional turning direction for double lever faucet handles in a shower?

It seems to vary by manufacturer/model/style and perhaps personal preference.

The shower knobs in one of my bathrooms were installed 2-3 years ago and are, by default, "off" when horizontal and "on" when vertical. Cold turns on CW and Hot turns on CCW.

Below is an excerpt from the installation instructions for the faucet set that shows this as the way the handles were designed. This does not strike me as being unusual thinking back to some of the other places I've lived and so forth.

Interestingly, the faucet set is prominently described by the manufacturer as being "ADA Compliant" (compliant with the American Disabilities Act) so it would seem that the on/off direction isn't critical for that designation. Incidentally, ADA compliance isn't required for private residences.

It makes good sense that vertical be "off" and horizontal be "on" for the reasons mentioned in other answers, as well as not having your shower/bathtub water come on if something is dropped on the handles. (I've done it. Rather eye-opening surprise...)

Here's a link to the whole installation manual in case someone wants it.


How do I calculate my monthly water usage?

1 cubic meter is 1,000 liters of water.
1,000 liters is about 264 gallons.
You are allotted 10 cubic meters or 2,640 gallons, which is quite a lot.

The Average American Shower is about 17 gallons. 4 showers per day times 31 days is 2,108 gallons of water. Your worst case scenario for Washing Machine Water Usage is about 25 gallons, at 6 times per month that would be 150 gallons. Also, consider that a toilet flush is about 2 gallons. If you flush twice per day that's another 125 gallons of water. You can figure about that much for typical hand washing, etc. At this point you are at about 2,500 gallons (9,463 liters). That's roughly about what you are allowed to use.

Do you have a separate water meter? If so, record the reading. Take another reading the next month and get the difference, multiply by what the meter calls for to determine your usage.
Turn all of the water off in your apartment and go see if the meter is spinning. If so, you have a leak somewhere.
Check to make sure the toilet flapper is not allowing water to run after you flush. This will make the toilet keep trying to fill.
Do you have any water dripping at faucets or underneath the sinks?
Check your dishwasher settings.
Change the aerators in your shower and sinks.

Anything you can do to reduce your water consumption will ultimately lower your bill.


I opened a light switch and found an unterminated wire in the junction box. Is this unsafe?

First, this wire is probably dead and unused because of how short someone cut it.  It's not usable like that and I would hope the person that cut it intended it to be dead and never used in the future.  That said, the work was done by an amateur so you shouldn't assume anything.

You are correct that you shouldn't work on a circuit when the breaker is on (referring to a comment), but in order to troubleshoot some problems, and to measure voltage, the power must be on.

Move the switches out of the way as much as possible.  If you want, you can even wrap electrical tape around the switches to cover up the screws and limit accidental contact.  Turn the switches on and then turn on the breaker.  Your mulitmeter will have probes that are 3-5" long, so you should be able to reach the back of that box while staying clear of the switches.  Just assume that everything in the box can shock you and only touch wires with the insulated probes of the meter.  (Ground and neutral should be safe, but we have no idea what's going on in this box, so assume it's all dangerous.)

Probe the black and white wires and then black and ground to see if there is any voltage present.  They are probably, hopefully going to be dead.  If they are dead, just leaving them alone is the easiest thing to do.  They should be capped, but they've been cut so short, that's not possible.  You could loosen the cable clamp, grab the wires with pliers and try to pull more into the box.  If successful, cap the wires with wire nuts.  If there is voltage on the wires, then the really need to be capped off.

Also, the voltage that you're looking for is close to 120vac.  The meter can read phantom or induced voltage on dead wires that run along side live wires.  Your non-contact meter might even show them as hot.  There are a few questions about that on this site and others, so if you see a low voltage, research it.


GFCIs work by making sure current is equal in and out (i.e. that all current is accounted for).  As such, all (normal) current must pass through a GFCI device: All hots and any neutral.

Normally one attaches the neutral wire to the neutral bar.  The GFCI instructions are warning that you can't do the normal thing, and "the" neutral wire must go through the GFCI breaker (for detection purposes) just like all the hot(s).

Since  your circuit does not employ a neutral wire, this advice is irrelevant to you.

When wiring this circuit, you may find it prudent to run a /3 cable so it can be used later for some other appliance which may want neutral.  In that case, leave the full length on the neutral wires, but cap them off.

All that said, the GFCI breaker will have a "neutral pigtail" (literally looks like a pig's tail, it's all curled up) -- this is where the GFCI gets the supply-side neutral from.  You will probably need to plug that into the neutral bar on the panel; many 240V GFCIs need it to power their own onboard electronics.

As with all GFCIs, hook up the GFCI itself and get it fully working before attaching anything to the load side.  You will easily catch any such problem in this area.


How can I DIY this fireplace refurbishing project?

It sounds like your original setup was a gas log, maybe some heat but mostly  decorative. All the electric models I know of are zero clearance so you should have no problems installing an electric model in that space.
I would probably seal it off so no heat was lost up the stack as you won’t need a vent with all electric. But follow the manufacturers instructions and it will be fine.


The only answer for removal of those angle 2x4s is no, it is not possible at all unless a major reinforcement of the ceiling and roof is done.

The members that make up the roof are set so they work together as a whole, and to remove one part will severely weaken the whole truss that the piece was removed from. Remove one piece from more than one truss, you may, or will have catastrophic failure on your hands.


Can I use both a concrete slab and crawl space foundation?

Certainly. Split-level homes around the world (including my own) have such a scenario. Often it's a full-height basement foundation wall instead of a crawl space, but the general idea is the same. Of course, it's all subject to review and approval by an architect or engineer.


Can I retrofit a ground wire to my oven circuit?

You can retrofit ground. See many answers about that - e.g., What does this answer about old residential home grounding mean?

Options include running a new separate ground wire or connecting with another ground wire. However, while you may be able to use a smaller than 6 AWG wire for the ground (10 AWG according to Harper's comment), you can't just connect to a 12 AWG or 14 AWG ground from a 20A or 15A circuit - that's not quite big enough.

As far as all the wires being together - ground is the exception. That's because ground only carries current in an emergency (and then hopefully only long enough for the overcurrent situation to trip the breaker). However, one key to that is make absolutely certain that any neutral-ground bond in the oven is removed. Sometimes a neutral-ground bond is included in the oven but that is only used when connecting without a separate ground to the panel (which should not be the case on any new installation).

As far as why this is all even an issue: When grounding was added as a requirement for most residential circuits, appliance manufacturers (specifically electric ovens/cooktops/ranges and clothes dryers) were concerned that requiring a potentially significant amount of electrical work (e.g., if the wires were not in conduit and the path not easily accessible to run a ground wire or a new cable) would affect sales of new appliances - you would replace it if it was broken and you had no way to fix it, but you wouldn't "upgrade" and you would fix rather than replace when possible. In other words, money. So they got an exception to allow ground to share the neutral connection. In certain situations this provides the same safety benefits of a separate ground wire. But in many other cases it does not. At this point (and for many years now), new installations and changes to existing installation require full separate grounding. But the manufacturers are still resistant to losing any sales due to lack of a ground wire so they continue (legally) to sell appliances that can be connected either way, and in many areas it is totally legal to keep using a ground-via-neutral provided it is a simple appliance replacement, but not recommended.

As far as neutral-ground bond in the main panel, the basic idea is that neutral & ground should be connected in exactly one place. In fact, they need to be connected for certain aspects of the entire electrical system to work properly. But having them connected in multiple places ends up defeating the purpose (partially) of ground wires.


Can I install Kerdi board just on the walls of my shower and use a PVC membrane on the floor?

That makes sense the installation video from Oatey says "wateproof drywall or cement board"  but your kerdi board is waterproof too, so it's equivalent.

Be sure not to screw through the shower liner--if you need to screw low on the Kerdi board put a dwang (cross-block) in above the liner and screw to that.


How do I re-level and re-lay a brick pad with a french drain underneath?

The best thing to do is not to have it drain under the patio -- when you change the moisure content of soil, it can compact differently, or wash out, both of which could cause the problems you're seeing.  If you can, change the drain there so you're using non-perforated pipe, and run it out further to a drainage field past the bricked area.

The problem is, you want to compact the soil for the patio, which will reduce the air voids in the soil, making it less permeable and not drain as well, making the french drain less effective.

As it's bricked, if you slope it away from the house, you'll reduce the amount of water absorbed in that area, which should hopefully eliminate the need for a french drain to collect the water to take down to a drainage area.

If you want to get the best compaction of your soil, dig some if it out, then compact the soil, then add a few inches back in, compact again, then repeat until you're out of soil.  Then repeat for the base pack, check it for level and then start laying your pavers.


How can I preserve paint and brushes between projects?

I generally pour my paint into a smaller paint pail, like this:

and then brush from there. They make liners for those pails, although I find they clean up relatively easy (most have a non-stick coating of sorts). They make pour spouts to making pouring easier, as well:

Depending on the size of the pieces and how many you can paint at once, I may just dip the brush right in the paint bucket, though. Get fairly high quality brushes, and be mindful of dirt and dust, and contamination isn't usually a big concern. When I'm done, I pour the remaining paint back into the big paint can.

As for storage, put the brushes, roller covers, and paint tray liners in a plastic zip-top bag(s), and put the bag(s) in the fridge. It will keep the brushes in good enough shape overnight, or over a few nights. You could give them a quick rinse before using. You'll probably want to wash them out after a couple of days, and definitely when switching colors / after priming.

Note that linked products are examples only, and do not represent any endorsement.


Any code problem putting single phase 240 and three phase 240 in same outlet box

Yeah, the plugs may not physically clear when installed next to each other at 1-gang spacing.  I would recommend using 2 separate boxes for that reason.

That said, you can put both voltages in the same junction box, but you must clearly mark them to distinguish them.


How do I finish the area around my furnace so it looks nice and isolates noise, but is still accessible?

I take it that these are both natural gas fired and both are currently taking their combustion air from the room. It looks like the furnace could be connected to get combustion air from the outside but the PVC tubing is not connected to a tube to draw from outside. I think you should investigate getting this done.

If you box these in to form a heater closet, you must provide vents for air from the room to move into the closet. The adequacy of vents for combustion air is regulated by law and regulations. You must contact your local construction inspection authority and see what they will require for size of a heater closet, access, and venting.

It looks to me like you are possibly not leaving enough clearance on the right side of the water heater.  I have a furnace like this, in a closet, and there is still noise. However, my Carrier NG furnace is 27 years old.

Fiberglass insulation on the outgoing duct might make a difference in sound level.


Why is there no water after replacing the filter in a Samsung refrigerator?

We had the same problem as everyone else. Installed a new filter (not a Samsung filter). After we installed the new filter there was no water. Tried the old one again and same thing, no water. We tried everything and could not figure what the problem was. Finally we unplugged the refrigerator and waited a few minutes. Plugged it back in and voila, we had water! Evidently something needed to reset itself.


Should the cord on my miter saw have a grounding wire and plug?

In a two-prong device, if there is a short from the hot wire coming in from the wall to the metal housing of the device, the metal housing becomes hot too, which is a shock hazard.

The third (earth ground) prong simply returns current to earth in case of a such a short so the housing doesn't become hot. If this kind of short happens and you have a third prong, you'll pull lots of current momentarily from the wall through the housing down to earth ground at the moment the short occurs and trip the breaker. If you don't have a third prong, you become the conduit between the hot housing and earth ground when you touch the device, which could be long after the short mechanically has occurred, since the short is "waiting" for a return path -- i.e. someone touching the housing.

Anyway, if the saw has a metal housing, definitely replace the cord. If the saw has a plastic housing, the risk is lower. You can add an earth ground by replacing the power chord and tying the earth ground prong to the metal inside the unit. I usually do this with a ring lug if I can find something threaded inside the chassis. You could also clip the metal housing to something else nearby that is earth grounded (three-pronged), since earth grounds should, by definition, all sit at the same voltage.


Many dishawshers will have a small amount of water left in the bottom of the cabinet after the cycle has run - but it shouldn't be much. One thing you should check is to make sure your drain line goes up into an air gap valve at the sink.
If you haven't installed an air gap you should at least take the drain line from the DW up into a high loop before it terminates in the disposal or drain line. A high loop means running it up to just under the countertop. This is especially important if it drains into the disposal. The high loop uses gravity to keeps waste from the disposal from backing up into the DW.


Is there a recessed floor box for a water supply?

My immediate thought for this is a quick connect valve that you normally see in commercial irrigation for remote hose connections.  These are seen outside where a water hose needs to be connected temporarily.  There are two parts - a quick connect valve, and a brass pipe that locks into the valve.  They are sold in the irrigation/automatic sprinkler section of home stores.

Link to valve, Link to key

This could be installed in the floor inside of any kind of standard floor box.  These are cheap, and it has few moving parts so it should be pretty maintenance free.  You can connect the hose to the end of the pipe (key), so you don't have to get down on your hands and knees to screw on a hose.  The quick connect only takes a second (literally) to snap in, and you're ready to use your hose.

If its not clear, you lift the black plastic hood of the valve.  The valve is spring loaded.  The key portion inserts into the valve a few inches and you turn in 90 degrees to lock it in place.


What techniques can be used to buff a stainless steel sink?

The "grain" is a result of a 25 minute grinding and buffing process completed near the end of the creation of the sink.

This video gives a bit of a clue.  The final stages are at the 3:50 mark.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYd7-ZNbg5g


Certain light bulbs not working in fixture

Last time I had this problem it turned out the spring in the fixture that makes contact with the bulb tip had weakened, so it only made contact with some bulbs. That's how I discovered that on some bulbs the tip sticks out a little bit more than on others.

Then right as I was thinking "bad contacts can heat and start fires" the thing started to make "kzzzzt" noises. Apparently contact was really bad.
Fix was to Turn off the breaker to the fixture and test to be sure there is no power at the fixture and then pull the spring in the socket a little bit with needle nose pliers   to make sure it made contact again. Or change the socket.
Could also be a bad contact with the wires, or a loose screw, that happened to make contact after you fiddled with it. That's another fire hazard.


Get yourself a bit of aluminum coil stock. Find a color that you can live with, or also pick up some spray paint in flat.
Cut a rectangular piece that's as wide as the damage plus 2", and as long as height of the siding face plus 2".
Using a scrap board with fairly sharp corners, bend the sheet so that it fits the profile of the siding. You want it to to cover the underside of the plank above the patch, the face with the damage, and the underside below the damage.  Trim length as needed.
Check your fit and the overall appearance, then drill into the underside planes for pop rivets or sheet metal screws. If needed, flex the patch so it lays well against the siding.
Paint the patch piece if necessary and let it dry well.
Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the top and sides of the damage (not below).
Press the patch in place and fasten it.

If you find that the width of the fastener area is too narrow for comfort, go ahead and rivet from the face four or six times. You could then make the patch just cover the face and underside below the damage. Put some caulk behind the rivet points to seal them.


Can a shower mixing valve leak water from cold to hot lines if there is no pressure on the hot line?

Mixing valves could be the problem and depending on the year built or later faucet replacements the kitchen faucet and bathroom faucets are also possible causes. By turning the shutoff valves the guilty valv should be able to be identified.


How can I seal a gap between floor joist boxes and foundation?

This is a perfect scenario for spray foam, which both seals against airflow and adds insulation value. Pick up a couple cans and seal all such joints, then overlay fiberglass batts that match or exceed your wall insulation thickness.
Be aware that the standard foam swells to many times its initial size. Use small beads and try to force it into the void rather than just covering the surface. Also be aware that urethane does not come off clothing, skin, and almost anything else. Wear gloves and old clothes, and cover any surfaces or objects you need to protect, including outside the gap. Leave any bulge alone to cure, then tear or cut it off. Wiping it usually makes a mess.
You might also use a silicone or paintable latex caulk on the outside face of that gap, though. I do wonder when there's no exterior covering at that point. Does the wall sheathing not extend onto the sill plate?


Option 2 is the only one that will improve safety here.

A single wire break should not create a dangerous condition.  But that is exactly the situation you have, because every circuit in the subpanel has a bootlegged ground.  If that neutral wire fails to make good connection, the ordinary loads in the subpanel will "pull the neutral hot". That normally wouldn't be a big deal. But because all those grounds are bootlegged, it will ”pull all the grounds hot” too.  So now switchplate cover screws or the panel cover itself can bite you.

By trying to put on grounding theater, the last guy made things worse than no grounds at all.  Worse, Code once endorsed this, and still does where dryer and range sockets are concerned.

Now you don't have to go back to the panel.  It will suffice to reach the grounding electrode system, i.e. The bare wire running to those two ground rods.


Rocker switch in bedroom stuck? possible obstruction?

There could have been something trapped behind the faceplate. At this point I would probably say that was the cause , However if it happens again something inside the switch is failing not really a safety issue because the plastic encases the contact set.
So go ahead and use it as long as it is switching it should be fine. If it hangs up again get a new switch turn the breaker off and swap wire(s) 1 at a time re mount and turn the power back on.


Filling hole after removing medicine cabinet

Plastic stapled to the face of the wall will work as you noted. Also any thin veneer such as a door skin so it overlaps the opening will prove to be a bit more rigid if that matters and is easily cut with a utility knife.  if you can't hit he studs the door skin should still remain in place with only some small box head-type nails.


How to remove a tile with floor heating mat

I have repaired the issue I had with this tile. I did not take the advice given above and looked around for an alternative as the risk of damaging the tile-warmer element was too high (and expensive).
I spent a few hours and carefully dug out the grout around the tile and surrounding tiles - this was very tedious as I didn't want to damage the heating element. I vacuumed and cleaned thoroughly. I then mixed up some epoxy grout and with a putty knife pushed the grout as far as possible into the gaps. Since I had used grooved trowel to lay the tiles, the epoxy grout filled under the tile into the gaps. After 2 days I tested the tile and it does not move at all. The epoxy grout is INCREDIBLY strong and hopefully stabilized the tile. I am glad I didn't resort to breaking up the tiles.


How do I install a single-pole switch w/ pilot light?

So, after some further fooling, I rewired it again as I did the first time (with a pigtail going from the neutrals to the silver terminal), the hot line in going to the top right black terminal, and the load going to the bottom right brass terminal. I turned on the breaker and again, the pilot light is on 100% of the time, whether the switch is in the on or off position.
So, I then swapped the hot line in, and the hot load out, and turned back on the breaker, and  it now works properly. So, it looks like the directions are SORT OF correct, but Leviton put the line in where the load out should be, and vice versa. Basically what they say should be connected to the black screw should be on brass, and brass should be on black (still a DIYer, I never know the proper names for these things). I hope this helps someone else who buys this same switch.


Upper roof downspout emptying onto lower roof

We have a similar two story house where we had contractors redo the gutters.  They continued the downspout from the second floor over the roof of the first floor and positioned it directly into the hole in the first floor gutter.

No straps were visible on the run over the first floor and it appears to be secured at the second floor downspout only.

Volume of water has not been given a real test yet.  I direct the output into rain barrels with an overflow facing downhill. You could direct it into 4" perforated pipe with sleeve buried in the ground and running away from the house. This is a French drain which empties into a dry well.  If you ever wondered how to use up empty plastic pails this is your chance!


Dry steamers are the preferred model as they reach upwards of 240 degrees Fahrenheit and leave less moisture after treatment. Wet steamers, still effective on bed bugs, don’t reach such high temperatures and can leave surfaces wet; the higher the temperature, the more effective in tight spots.

http://www.badbedbugs.com/bed-bug-steamer/

So they aren't dry, they are (allegedly) hotter than other steamers which presumably means after hitting your cold furnishings, much of the (invisible) steam is still hot enough that it doesn't condense back into (visible) water vapor. Therefore your steamed surfaces end up less wet.


Why are all the toilets in my house running intermittently?

You have to diagnose why the toilets are running, but given that multiple toilets have started running simultaneously, I'm guessing your water pressure is too high. This can be due to a falling PRV or a missing or failing expansion tank. See this answer for the steps to check an expansion tank. This answer may also be helpful. If you find your water pressure is well over 60psi (I believe) all the time, then you need a PRV (or to replace your existing one).

If checking your water pressure shows that it's never high, then it's time to diagnose the toilets. If the float valve is adjusted too high and allows the water to reach the overflow, then you may be losing water through the overflow and the toilet will cycle to makeup the lost water. I've also seen cases where the tube to refill the toilet was installed in such a way that it was below the water level and it eventually siphoned water through the fill valve into the overflow drain. The water would siphon down until the toilet ran to makeup for lost water. The most common reason is a bad seal on the flapper valve. Depending on the flapper design, this may be replaceable without disassembling the toilet tank. One last possibility is a failing valve on the toilet. Typically, the reason these fail is from high water pressure. But the symptom will be a high water level, well above where the float should shut it off. You may find the float submerged if this happens.


Simply set your thermostat to "fossil" or "gas/oil" mode
Most thermostats out there support what you describe, as it turns out, as gas furnaces control their blower automatically by default, and only use the G terminal as an override to turn the blower on when the system is otherwise not running.  So, simply set your thermostat of choice to "fossil" or "gas/oil", and you'll be set.
(If you're having trouble finding the option, check the installer's manual for your thermostat.  Older electronic 'stats had a small switch inside that set this, while newer ones have a software option instead.)


How can we repair cracked and broken concrete around a sewer stack in the basement floor?

The right way to do it is dig out and repour the concrete in the area.  This isn't that hard or expensive.

If you want just a stopgap until you decide what you are doing with your main line then you could get a bucket of hydraulic cement and patch over the existing concrete.  The cracked concrete should not be affecting your stack - hopefully - so this is really a different issue than your plumbing problem.


Installing Nest Thermostat. C Wire not hooked up inside furnace

Add it to the wirenut with the fat blue wire in it

On a typical split-system with air conditioning, there will be a two-wire cable running out to the air conditioner with one wire connected to the yellow Y wire and the other wire connected to C; this cable carries the call-for-cooling signal from the indoor unit to the compressor unit's contactor.

As a result of this, we start our trace at the Y wire, and trace the wire connected to it back to the outdoor unit's control cable.  From there, we can deduce that the other wire must be connected to C in order for the air conditioning to work, so we can simply add the blue C wire going to the thermostat to that wirenut.  This is confirmed by the fact the wiring diagram you posted shows that connections to the secondary-side ground (C) are all blue wires, and the wire nut in question has a fat blue wire going into it.


Outlet looks like a NEMA 10-50 but is only stamped at 30

It looks like a NEMA 10-50 all right, but it is labeled 30A.

Electrical Code 110.3 requires you obey labeling and instructions on every device.  Therefore, this mismarked device can only be breakered 30A, but anything you'd plug into it will pop a 30A breaker.   It is useless and must be taken out of service and tossed.   It may not even be a Proper NEMA connector, so a 10-50P may not even fit.  Not that you should be using a NEMA 10 to charge an electric car!  It invites a shocking situation.

The problem with NEMA 10

Even if you refit a NEMA connector, these large connectors are not intended for frequent plug/unplug. They will quickly take damage and terminals will start to break.   That's where NEMA 10 becomes a super bad problem.  They don't have a ground pin.  They are illegal for new work, but due to lobbying by the appliance industry, they are allowed to continue in service in older homes.  They "made it legal" to bootleg ground on ranges and dryers.

The problem is if anything goes wrong with the neutral connection, the chassis of the machine will become electrified. This has killed, and it's typically reported as a "miswired" dryer or range receptacle, however the receptacle was correctly wired.  It simply failed, which is a normal and common occurrence and it shouldn't fail deadly: it shouldn't electrify the chassis of machines. But it does, and that's what makes NEMA 10 dangerous.

Size up what you've got

Pop the socket cover  off the wall and take a look inside.  You want to know the size of the wires, and if they are aluminum, how many there are, and what colors.

First account for the hot wires.  There must be 2, either black or red.  Two blacks is OK.
Next, account for neutral.   If a white wire is present, that is neutral. It might be bare if it's the only remaining wire.  Sometimes it is a web of bare strands wrapped around the hots.
last, ground.   If neutral is accounted for, and there's still an unaccounted for bare, green or green/yellow wire, that is ground.  If both neutral and ground are present, that is awesome.   However ground can be retrofitted by installing a single wire -- neutral cannot.

Now look at the size of the wires, and we are concerned with the "hot" wires only.  They will be either 10 AWG, 8 AWG, 6 AWG, or possibly 4 AWG. (Getting larger as the number lowers).  This will be marked on the individual wires maybe, the cable sheath surely, or the diameter of the wires can be measured and look it up on the Internet.

Also determine if the wires are aluminum.  If they are aluminum, add 2 to the effective AWG. So #6Al performs like #8Cu.  Assuming copper:

if the hots are 10 AWG you must breaker for 30A and you must use 30A receptacles (not that one).
if the hots are 8 AWG you must breaker for 40A and use 50A receptacles (really).
if the hots are 6 AWG you must breaker for 50A and use 50A receptacles.

Adapt what you can

Now most likely, your car charger requires ground (uses a NEMA 6 hot-hot-ground or 14 hot-hot-neutral-ground). And most likely, your stove requires neutral (uses NEMA 14 or 10 hot-hot-neutral).  Neutral is not ground, no matter what you've been told.

But if you don't have ground, you can retrofit ground, simply by getting bare #10 wire and routing it via any possible means from the socket to the main panel, or any grounded part of your electrical system where the ground wire is #10 or larger, or  any non-flexible metal conduit that goes all the way back to the panel, or anywhere on the grounding electrode system (the bare wires grounding the panel to water pipes or ground rods). You cannot use random water pipes for grounding, with some exceptions.

The only receptacle which can satisfy both needs is NEMA 14, which happily also fixes the dangerous NEMA 10 situation.  Also happily, any range is designed to accept either a NEMA 10 or 14 cord, and can be switched just by changing the cord and removing the bootleg-ground jumper.

Your car charger is probably  wired NEMA 6 (hot-hot-ground), but it is perfectly legal to plug it into NEMA 14 with an adapter, extension cord with NEMA 6 and 14 on opposite ends, or just change the cord on the charger.

If your circuit is 30A, you can also have more than one receptacle on it.  So a 30A circuit could be extended to a new receptacle in the garage.  That is a no-no with 40 or 50 amp range/oven circuit.


How to fix damage to my fence door's latch?

I would,

unscrew the latch and remove it,
apply wood glue under the broken piece,
clamp it and let it dry for an hour or two
drill some deep pilot holes through 95% of the thickness of the whole gate
reattach the latch with longer screws .

I would consider using bolts instead, with washers to spread the load on the far side.


Matching pegged hardwood flooring or another way?

It appears that this type of flooring is not as easy find as I thought it would be. I do believe you can at least find a random width oak..... somewhere.... You can determine whether it is white or red oak by beginning to tooth out one of the pieces that needs it anyway, and look at the end grain. It if looks like it has a lot of tiny pinholes in the annular rings it is red oak. If it looks like it had holes but are filled with something, it is white oak. Perhaps when the toothing is done, a stamp may be found on the back of a piece that states the specie. When this material was sold originally bundles were stamped, but not all the pieces are marked.

If you do find the right flooring in the widths you need, the pegging or plugs as I have know it to be, can be drilled in as needed. Just match what you have. When you remove the first piece with plugs it will become obvious. Usually there are screws under the plugs, so dig them out and check for screws first off.

To remove the flooring for toothing out, set a circular saw to the thickness of the flooring. If you can get it dead on great, if it is shallow a teeny bit, it will still work and if it a teeny bit too deep not a problem either, but you are prone to hitting nails. And what I mean by"teeny bit" is a 1/16" either way.

To start the toothing process, start a cut with the saw on one of the floor boards that was abutting the cabinet. It is usually a cut end with no tongue or groove. Start the cut near the middle of the piece and cut towards the end that meets the next piece in line, but do not cut into the next piece. Start a second cut in the same piece 1" away from the first piece and cut parallel with the first cut stopping the same way, Now you can grip the cabinet end of the piece and lift it out. The part that did not get cut by the saw because of the round of the blade is so weak it will crack out with a tug or two or three. To get the other pieces out, set a sharp cornered block of wood in the beveled edge and drive the waste away from the parts you want to keep. The groove side will be easy, the tongue side will not be for the nails or staple holding it. This side I will typically use a dull chisel to drive in near the joint and drive into the surface, one, to drive it away, second to split it to start getting to the fasteners. The dull chisel aids in driving it away and when the fastener is a little away from the piece you want to keep driving the chisel in to start splitting it all the way to the subfloor. With a little real time practice you will get down to the fasteners to pull them out, along with the rest of the scrap. CAREFUL how you pull the fasteners out, the upper part of the groove of the neighboring piece is real easy to break.

You may want to post another question, on how to fill it back in with pictures of your area in question.

If you do not have any luck in finding ready made floor, 20 sq. ft.is really not a lot of floor and can be made in a number of ways. Table saw, or router with bits that are available to make T&G cuts. This would be the simplest to use especially if you need to make custom lengths to complete an existing run between 2 factory ends, Using a table saw means a lot of fence moving, so planning the process will simplify it some. I would add the bevel too with a pass of a router with a 45 degree bit. The original may get sanded out, some may stay, but the new floor will match it in that way too.

Yes you will need to resand the floor to properly finish it. As a mention, the new floor whether you make it, or it comes ready made, the old floor will take stain a little more readily than the newer wood. If you find this totally objectionable, the new pieces can be "toned in" with addition coats of stain or tint the first finish coat over that area cutting it in carefully. A good floor finisher should know all this already. You need to know what to expect so he can price finishing the floor accordingly.

Yes the plugs are most likely walnut, also a minor detail, but the plugs could be cut from end grain or side grain. This will be evident when you remove the first few. The end grain ones will break up readily into small pieces, the side grain ones will more or less split out in pieces the diameter of the plug, for the most part. In either ase they should be glued in.

Good luck. One last thing, if you do have particle board under the flooring and the floor itself has had no issues keep it, but do try to use the same fastening system they did.


Adding an on/off switch for my furnace fan

Your thermostat is probably connected to the R and W/W1 terminals on the furnace. To run just the fan, you would need to add a switch connected to the R and G terminals.


Light switch with one red and two black wires. Dont think it's a three way

You have a 2-way switch.   One of the black wires is probably the line and the other carries power to some other device on the circuit; they are connected together by one using the backstab connector and the other the screw.   The red wire is probably the load (it's also possible the red is the line and you have two loads controlled by the switch).


In a solidly grounded wye service, is an open neutral an emergency?

Yes, the open neutral is still dangerous in that situation for the same reason, the voltage on one leg will rise as high as 208V, and current will travel on the grounds.


Toilet in spare bath runs automatically for 2 seconds about every 20 min!

The only possible cause is a slow leak.  There could be leaks in several places:

Flapper valve:   Did you replace the flapper?  Did you clean the flapper valve seat?  Run your finger all the way around it to feel for deposits and nicks.  Repair with light use of sandpaper.
Tank bolts:  These fasten the tank to the bowl unit.  If these were to leak, most toilets would weep water over the backside of the bowl housing onto the floor.  Check for moisture back there and all around on the floor.  Some toilets can weep here but direct water into the bowl.  The only way to discover this is by taking the bolts out and checking whether the bolt head seals are in good condition.
Inlet seal:  Where the water enters the tank from underneath is another area where gaskets prevent water from exiting the tank and weeping down the water line.  Check for moisture here.


In many cases the most successful and least time-consuming approach is to either remove and replace the drywall (and catch up with any issues exposed when the wall is open) or to lay a fresh layer of drywall on top of the wall that had wallpaper on it.

IMHO the skim coat of mud (sand optional) will do the job without any "special sealer" first, but it's a time consuming approach .vs. new drywall.


How can I fix a large hole in plaster ceiling that's backed by drywall instead of wood lath?

What you have is what is called "rock lath" It is a forerunner of modern drywall. It replaced wood lath somewhere around the 1940's or 50's.
There should be framing that the rock lath is secured to, typically as backers over the wall that was taken out or other wood that was on either side of the wall. A small diameter nail probe should locate something. With the framing found. even if it is only on an edge, or in the middle, it does not matter, this will allow a filler piece of drywall to screwed in place, not nailed, nailing will vibrate all kinds of stuff that may crack things you don't want cracked. The sandy "brown coat" and thin "white coat" usually are about 3/8" thick over the rock lath. 3/8 sheetrock is still available, get a piece and set in place with screws long enough to find the framing, say about 1 5/8" to 2" long. You can add dabs of construction adhesive under it too, it the framing to screw to is only on one edge.
After the filler pieces are in, and the existing plaster is cleaned back to get rid of the remnants of the corners that stick downward, then you can start filling in the gaps with fast set. When they are filled use a 45 or 90 minute fast set to tape all joints where new and old meet. This material is available in "easy sand" don't believe it, it is better than  the original fast set, but still tough to sand to a finish, so don't use it for the finish coat., use regular drywall mud for the final coat, it will go much easier.
As a mention, if the plaster build up is a 1/2 " or more, by all means, use 1/2" drywall for the filler.
!-15-21 edit after pic was added
You are on the right track with the repair. Typically  Plaster is roughly 3/4" to 7/8" thick. As a mention, the black expanded metal you see at the edges of the plaster are/were 8" wide pieces bent lengthwise to act as reinforcement in the corners. This is what was typically done when rock lath was used. Rock lath is 3/8" thick of the 3/4" to 7/8" mentioned earlier. If you are adding your drywall directly to the framing and not adding it over the rock lath, which my answer above assumed, then add wood strips of the proper thickness where the screws will go before you add the sheetrock. This would mean taking down what you have up already. This would allow a LOT less mud to be used. If you leave it as it is now, it may take a few bags of fast set to get it filled in properly. If you do just the joint, you may notice a high spot because of it.
It looks like you have a sanded finish on your ceiling. I  would try to grind down the roughness a little with a very coarse sandpaper on a sanding pole or pad if possible. This will make the final skim coat on the repair much easier to do. The bumps of sand will make the new finish ripple because of it. You could get by without the coarse sanding first, but you would need to wet sponge the edges down to feather in the new to old. Beyond the edges, into towards the repair there will be ripples to sand out later after it dries but the edges will already be smooth...hopefully.... I think Ed Beal's answer may have a good idea on how to mimic the sanded finish. I have not tried it, but what I do know, what I have tried did not work satisfactory for me.


Attaching Christmas lights to peak of roof

If you have access to the rooftop of the lower section of roof, you can climb on the roof and access the gable from above. Using clips (e.g.: Walmart) you can subsequently use a pole to place and remove lights.
When walking on a tile roof, walk on the peaks of the tiles to reduce risk of damaging them.
Obviously care should be taken to not slip and fall off the roof.
Maybe this year you can hire a light installing company or a handyman to install the clips.


You cannot do what you propose. You are good by running a 20A circuit for a bathroom receptacle circuit, it is required. By adding #14 to the circuit would mandate that you downgrade the breaker to 15A which would not be code compliant.

Your best bet is to run a new #14 circuit to re-feed this non-grounding circuit.


Precautions to take using half completed bathroom

Duct tape (very sticky, possible removal of more than just the tape) or Electrical tape (just sticky enough, easy removal) over open seams. Otherwise, just tape cheap plastic painting tarps from above the shower right down into the tub's walls, tight will keep blowing movement to a minimum. If it's a shower & not a tub you'll need tarps down to the drain & all overlapping seams taped with duct tape, just lay loose 2x4's around the floor perimeter to keep the shower's shape.


filling a 3 inch hole in a fire rated dry wall ceiling

The opening must be sealed in accordance with the listing of the rated ceiling/floor assembly. This will vary among the wide variety assemblies currently and previously listed. Unfortunately, there is no generic correct answer. A correct code compliant solution requires research and expertise atypical among homeowners, or plain dumb luck.


Identifying Wires (especially Neutral) in Complex 3-Way Light Circuit

I assume the orange wire coming out of S1B's common terminal splits at or near light 1, in the 2nd floor ceiling, providing the load for light 1 and also ultimately for light 2, on the 3rd floor ceiling, as the orange wire from D-E is unbroken. I couldn't find this particular configuration as an example of multi-light 3 way wiring, though.

Right. Most novices get intrigued by those "color-by-numbers" drawings of 3-way circuits all over the web, which are made for use with /3 cable.  Your installer took full advantage of being in conduit and having a variety of wire colors... by doing something totally bespoke that is correct for your installation.
In other words the original installer took a procedural approach to a 3-way circuit:

Connect both 3-way switches with 2 travelers (lavender here)
Connect always-hot (pink here) to the common of one 3-way switch.
Connect switched-hot to the other 3-way common and all lamps.
Connect neutral to all lamps.

Treat each wire individually and you can see what they did makes sense.
I believe you will find conduits C and D both go to the lamp box of lamp 1.  The (lavender) travelers pass right through the box.
I believe that lamp box also has the purple, peach and that other neutral passing through it.  These wires have nothing to do with your 3-way circuit; leave them alone. No, you can't poach neutral from that.  Neutrals must stay with their partner hots.
The good news is, this being conduit, you can have anything you want anywhere you want - you just have to pull it.  So you can pull neutral down from wherever C goes, onward to D if necessary.  However since you will then have 2 neutrals in the box, you must clearly mark which is which, e.g. by wrapping associated wires with a couple loops of tape.


Mounting an in home network cabinet without two studs, maybe use plywood?

Your posting is a bit short on details but here is what you want to do.

Cut the 3/4 inch plywood so that it is at least the height of the cabinet and as wide as the space from the corner of the room over to the side of the existing other cabinets.

You will mount this rectangle of plywood flat against the wall with one side of it snug into the corner of the room wall. This plywood would be screwed through the drywall into the corner stud and the other stud. Use some good quality flat head wood screws of size #10x2.75", #10x3" or #12x2.75". Large screws like this will need a clearance hole drilled through the plywood. A pilot hole drilled into the studs will also permit easier installation and prevent the screws from splitting the studs. Four of these screws in each stud should be adequate. If you use a counter sink to bore a taper into the face side of plywood the flat head screws can draw in below the surface of the plywood. This will prevent them from interfering with the cabinet later.

Note that there is also access to the lower edge of the top plate inside the wall right along the corner with the ceiling. If you made the plywood tall enough to reach up to the ceiling you could also put some screws into the top plate too for more holding power.

Note that you should not place the plywood over any electrical boxes in such manner that the electrical box would become hidden. Another concern is that a laundry room is often near the the place where many electrical wires from the electrical panel fan out to other parts of the house in the walls and/or ceiling. For this reason do evaluate carefully so as to not be drilling or screwing into any electrical wires.

Once the plywood is in place you may want to finish it before mounting the cabinet. For raw wood make sure to use a good quality primer before applying the finish paint coats. You could also spackle over the countersunk screw heads so as to hide them and provide a nice flat appearance.

Mounting the cabinet will be a process of securing the back wall of the cabinet against the plywood. Most cabinets will already have holes in the back for just this purpose. If there are no holes then you will want to drill some. These holes should be the clearance size for the screws used to mount the cabinet. Appropriate screws (for a metal backed cabinet) are going to be round or pan head #12x1" wood screws. This size may penetrate the plywood and poke into the drywall some but that is OK. Slide the cabinet into place and mark the hole locations. Then drill pilot holes at those locations for the screws. Mount up the cabinet in place. I would recommend at least four screws if not six of them depending upon the size of the unit. Screws near the rear corners of the cabinet will be better than ones placed in the middle of the back. If there were existing holes that were too large for the heads of the screws you can select an appropriately sized flat washer to place under the screw heads.


Fiber vs STP vs UTP for underground conduit run to backyard office?

Fiber is the obvious choice, for multiple reasons. If you choose not to do fiber, point-to-point wireless is likely the next logical option, given a short distance.
The biggest one is that fiber does not need lightning/surge suppression, since it does not conduct electricity. You also don't have to replace lighting/surge suppressors that don't survive a surge.
Most networking companies do come in rather high on doing fiber, but if you get pre-terminated cable suitable for wet locations (probably "indoor/outdoor" is your best bet) somewhat longer than you need it's not too hard to pull it yourself, especially if you get "reduced bend radius" fiber.
However, getting pre-terminated fiber through a 3/4" conduit may be a bit iffy, even with LC (small) connectors, since the connectors need to be protected for the pull and that adds some bulk. Look for a cable with a pulling eye in place, and verify with the vendor that it will work in 3/4" conduit.
Myself, I learned to do "old school" hand-polish terminations rather than pay a company a great deal more for a project, but that was a bit larger scale than one cable in the back yard. I paid for the equipment and supplies many times over .vs. the quoted price.
There are also "mechanical splice" connectors out there, but the tools to use them would probably have to be rentals to make any sense unless your local company is the only option and very high priced.
If the trench is open, drop in some larger conduit.
"Somewhat longer than you need" - just coil the excess neatly, and enjoy not coming up short, or not worrying about having to cut some off and re-terminate if you have a problem. It's called a "Moves, Adds and Changes" loop, and when you don't have one, you tend to regret it, eventually.


If you live in a hard water area or have galvanized pipes try this:

Turn off the water supply at sink stops
Remove the handle and the nut that holds the cartridge
Pull the cartridge and make sure to not lose the parts
Clean the cartridge
With hand over the valve top, slowly crack open water to flush
Put it all back together
Repeat on the other side

I have found everything from rust, pebbles, pipe thread tape, and sand in valve stems since the orifices are so small they clog easily. I hope that is it. Good luck. ☺


Remotely tracking room temperature with smartphone, tablet or laptop

For DIY you could use a RaspberryPi with a RaZberry (z-wave module for the Pi).

RaZberry comes with a web-app and mobile apps. But you have to bring your controlling web-app into the net and care about the security!

This way you can use standard z-wave products. In this case a radiator thermostat.


What's this white crust in my kitchen pipe threads?

Without the photo it could be several things , the first that comes to mind is not normally used on those fittings normally pipe thread sealant or pipe dope , those threads normally have a compression ring of rubber or plastic and should never see any water that’s why I put it first. Pipe dope turns hard and crusty after a couple of decades and is be easy to break those nuts on the tail piece and trap if dope was used.
Other things that come to mind when there are leaks quite common in the trap is calcium or lime both are white and crusty wince there is buildup but for that water to get out to the threads the seal would have had to fail.
So I believe it was pipe dope in a location that it should not have been used. A third possibility is plumbers putty that is used to seal the drain flange to the basin but it should not have been used on threads.


That appears to be a subfloor (softwood, plain edges, face-nailed.) It's a good place to put a finish floor (hardwood, parquet, etc) and not a very good finish floor itself, no matter what you coat it with.

Softwood finish-floors are not unheard of, but that isn't one, IMHO.


Try using a windshield repair kit like the one shown here:
https://www.thoughtco.com/repair-your-chipped-windshield-281417

The basic steps are:

Clean the crack and area around it
Drill a small hole in front of each crack and chip at the hole to create a 'bulls eye', this helps stop the cracks from spreading
Align a resin applicator tool with the crack
Load a windshield resin applicator with resin and begin spreading the resin into the crack
Apply a finishing film to smooth the resin.
Let dry
Scrape away excess resin with a razor.


How do I get bats in the house to leave?

You don't say where you are, but in the UK, "getting bats to leave" would be a crime under the Wildlife and Countryside Act (1981) with a maximum sentence of six months prison.  Other countries are liable to have similar legislation.

Again, in the UK, I would contact the Bat Conservation Trust at https://www.bats.org.uk/.  They will try and help you learn to love your bats (they are wonderful creatures - and they eat mosquitoes), but if they fail at that, they will help you remove them legally.

If you are not in the UK, you will still find their website useful.


That is an old Zinsco breaker model called "Magnetrip" and there's more than one style. Yours has a forked bus which requires screw terminals top and bottom.
You will not find these new but there are companies who salvage old breakers and load test them and certify them. You will need to source replacements that way.
Still, there is some risk. You really should strongly consider replacing the panel, there will come a day when you can't get replacements at all.
P.S.- there is usually a (safety related) reason when breakers and panels are discontinued...


Likelyhood of lead paint in 1970s build UK

Get a rub-stick lead test kit, they're very easy & cheap. My understanding is that you didn't ban lead paint until 1990 in the stores. Bright yellow is a clear indicator it's lead, that started out navy blue. I'm kidding of course.

But, lead paint's only bad if you swallow it so don't lick or eat any, though it's the color of cake frosting (icing, cream, schmootz) & wash your hands liberally with lots of soap & water, for once in your life, after actually handling it & anything that might have stuck to it for 40+ years. Looking at it doesn't require decontamination.

Secondly, just don't scrape it nor sand it. Yep, no scraping & no Sandpaper or Pricker Cloth or Dragon's Skin or Stubble Pads, whatever you might call it over there. It's fine to peel, pick & lift off with a putty knife (yeah, whatever). Paint Stripper (no that's not a "dancer") is also fine. But, most people pass it on to the next person & paint over it with a Lead Encapsulating Paint. You should go that way since you took the wallpaper down & did your part.


How does a Smart Switch that does not require a neutral work?

Whoever you're listening to on this is spouting technobabble
I'm sorry to say, but you probably should find a better source to read, as whoever's been feeding you information is spouting total nonsense.  Whether a device needs a neutral wire or not has nothing to do with any sort of IoT contrivance such as a "smart home hub" and everything to do with how the device powers itself.  As you have noticed, "smart switches" have electronics inside that need power to run, and they have to provide that power somehow; the same is also true for occupancy sensors, timers, and some, more sophisticated, types of dimmers as well.
However, old-school knob dimmers and plain toggle switches don't need such, and were often wired in a way that doesn't make neutral available at the switch box (the old way of wiring a "switch loop"), meaning that you can't put fancy things there unless they cheat.  Some smart-switches are naughty (but UL approved to be a bit naughty due to the low currents involved) and return their supply current through the equipment grounding wire; this means they don't work in old houses without grounding, and also can cause problems downstream of GFCIs.
Others avoid this by returning their supply current via the controlled load (light, fan, or what-have-you) instead; while fan motors and incandescent lightbulbs don't mind having a wee bit of power trickled through them while supposedly "off", this causes LED lightbulbs to play up (either flickering periodically, or simply glowing dimly) as they are much more efficient (read: sensitive) than their incandescent counterparts.  It also is problematic if you want to use the smart-switch to provide a control input to another control device, such as a relay, lighting contactor, or dimming power module, that has more "grunt" than the smart-switch, or provides a capability (such as multi-way switching) that the smart-switch doesn't have on its own.
Finally, there are a few wallbox devices that are battery-powered (some Intermatic wallbox timers are this way); this avoids the difficulties listed above, but obviously requires the occasional battery change in order to keep the device up and running.  All of this is true no matter what sort of "smarts" (such as wireless capabilities, programming support, or what-have-you) the device has inside it, or whether it has any use for a hub or not.


Differentiating Between Latex vs. Oil Based Paint: Is smell alone enough of an indicator?

Normally, latex paint is water soluble while oil paint isn't, so trying to dissolve a drop of paint in water should give you an indication. Don't put water in the paint bucket; if it turns out to be oil base you'll ruin it.


Don't knock yourself out making a special trip, but do go get correct, listed box covers eventually when you get a chance.  Homebrew covers are not legal.     Most of the covers I use are on the order of a dollar, so I don't worry too much about keeping a few in stock.


Wire and Conduit for line between house and outbuilding

If you run conduit you would use individual wires. You could run the entire distance in conduit if you choose.

A 50 amp circuit only requires a #10 ground so you would have 3-#6 and 1-#10 copper wires for this circuit. These would fit in a 3/4" PVC schedule 40 conduit according to the Code.

With a light load (4 KW is less than half of this circuit) voltage drop should not be an issue but if you add a large motor load like a compressor you may get a slight flicker in your lights when the compressor starts. The longer the distance on the circuit the more this becomes an issue. Since you are currently oversized it should not be a problem unless you plan to put a larger load on the end of the line in the future.

Good luck and be careful!


Picture from here i.e. top of the list when googling "fuse marking F2H".
It's a 2 amp fast acting fuse with high rupture current rated for 250 volt AC circuits. To find one you also need to measure it's length (often 20 mm). Common sizes: -


How do I handle a transition from concrete to dirt underneath a flagstone patio?

(1) Is this even advisable, or should I just extend the concrete out to the entire area I want for the patio before laying stone (adding considerable cost)?

Rolls-Royce job (Money no object): Extend the concrete slab out to the area you wish to pave or remove the existing slab and start allover again.

  (2) Assuming I don't extend the concrete, what should I do when the stone transitions from the concrete subsurface to the dirt? I'm nervous that cracks will occur over time, and I'd like to do whatever I can to avoid that.

Good enough job (and what most paving pro's would do, at least the ones I know back in the UK): Excavate 6 to 8 inches (150 to 200mm) from the area you want to extend into. Back fill that area with sub-base (crushed rock) material. Back fill in 2 to 3 inch (50 to 75mm) layers, each layer should be "properly" compacted. This will give you a sub-base that is "nearly" as good/stable as the existing concrete slab.

Something to consider, regardless of chosen method, how is the paving area going to drain? Do you need to put in some sort of drainage system , thus preventing the surrounding softscape from flooding due to the new hardscape?


Double earth on metal case light fitting Qld?

My copy of ASNZS3000:2007 has no references to 'double earth', and a cursory web search finds no useful results.

I suspect your electrician is confused (or has confused you) between 'double insulation' and 'earthing', both of which are valid but mutually exclusive means of protection against electric shock.

Most pendant lights in New Zealand, which has a similar regulatory regime to Australia, are double insulated and do not require an earth. Some electricians are not particularly comfortable with this, and he may want to earth them anyway, but this is not legally required provided they comply with the correct standards and marking.

I suggest finding another electrician.