How can I get a straight line at the ceiling when painting a textured wall?

I never tape anything and people are amazed at the crisp lines I paint in my home.  I use a high quality angled brush for this.  Depending on my wrist fatigue and room, I work from either left to right, or vice versa with this technique.  This is self-taught and I have no idea if their is a name for this.

I load the brush up with plenty of paint and then spread the paint on about an inch lower than the ceiling, onto the wall for about the length of a foot.  This is just to get the bulk of the paint onto the wall to prevent dripping and to help load the brush back up while I work.  I pull the brush along the wall just below the ceiling and slowly raise it up to the corner so that the bristles fall in to place. Without the angled brush, this would be difficult.  I hold the brush more on plane with the ceiling than the wall, almost perpendicular to the wall.  Once the bristles have fallen into a nice setup, most people would simply drag the brush and paint the wall with a one long stroke.  I found that I run out of paint and have to use multiple shallow arcs to do this.  This was unsatisfactory to me.  I wiggle the brush back and forth while dragging it along to drag and push the paint to the place I want.  The key of this method is to control the amount of paint loaded up on the brush at the ends while you drag and push.  With the push and pull action of this method, I think it would work wonderfully for a textured surface as it pushes paint with both strokes in each direction

Upon very close inspection, the finished edge will have a small ragged appearance to it, but you can only see it when you are very close up.  From normal viewing distance, even in a small bathroom, the line appears to be a crisp edge, well-defining the corner.  I will be painting a room in the next week or two.  I could take a quick video and post if it would be beneficial to anyone.

Edited to add video:

Video


Do soffit lights count as an exterior light required at doors?

Yes, soffit lighting will work. The requirement is just to provide adequate illumination outside at exterior doors.

Any recessed light should work.


OK to use short length of plumbing pipe as electrical conduit?

You can use rigid as the ground it is done absolutely all the time. However both black iron and water pipe are code violations (how would anyone know?) The water pipe has a seam that is not smooth and the black iron is not galvanized. Rigid conduit uses the same dies as regular pipe if they have a machine there is no difference.
The big deal is the center needs to be chamfered, some don’t do this on water and gas.
you can connect the boxes and use the pipe as your ground. from the pipe size why not pull the ground in the pipe the nuts are cheaper than a short run of copper.


Removing detergent smell from clay/earthen pot

Put it in the oven? Low setting for an hour or so might work.


Smart Switch Wiring Question: What is the Need for a Neutral Wire? How to Provide One?

Current flows in loops

You know, with an air tool, you only need one hose.  When the tool is done with the air, it can just release it into the air!  Hydraulics could work that way if we were fish.  But since we're not, hydraulic tools need a return line.

Electrical needs a return line too, and it's even more important because electrical power works on the difference of forces. So the return line has the same force as the supply line, actually (that's why we insulate it and keep it separate from safety ground).

So a load connects between hot and neutral (in our nomenclature.)

Now a dumb switch is human-powered.  It needs no power of its own.  So a dumb switch simply connects (or does not connect) an always-hot wire to a switched-hot wire.  Those are the 2 wires in the switch loop before you.

So what options do you have?

Replace the "switch loop" with a /3 cable

The cable run between lamp and switch does not have neutral.  We change that if we have ready access.

Unlikely, but if it's in conduit with loose individual wires, a white THHN neutral wire can simply be added, and done.

Generally, pre-2011 wiring will be a /2 cable meaning 2 conductors (black, white) + safety ground.   Change that to a /3 cable which has black, white, red.  You cannot simply toss in a loose single wire, because all related conductors must be in the same cable.  The old cable can be up-cycled to other tasks if it's removed carefully.

In the /3 wiring, you must use white for neutral (it's not that way now).  Then I advise using black for always-hot, and red for switched-hot (to the lamp). If you do that, the colors will probably match up with your smart switch.

Select a no-neutral smart switch (leaks through the lamp)

This is the option if you don't have a functional grounding system.  This works the way traditional dimmers work - it relies on the very low resistance of incandescent bulbs to "leak" a small amount of power through the bulb to power itself.

This won't play well with CFLs or most LEDs, however that can be solved by adding one incandescent bulb, or paralleling a Lutron LUT-MLC "incandescent simulator" into the lamp wiring.

Select a no-neutral smart switch (that bootlegs ground)

You should never do this on your own. This, plus a trivial wire problem, would render the grounding system itself lethal. Not what you want!

And this only works if your grounding system is in good order clear back to the panel.

UL (Underwriters's Laboratories) writes the rules that appliances must follow to be certified as safe.  Under very narrow rules, they allowed smart switches to power themselves by bootlegging the ground wire as a substitute for neutral. The rule limits current to 0.5 milliamps (not harmful if the above happens) and too low to trip GFCIs.

However NFPA (who writes the National Electrical Code) does not like this method, and outlawed it as of NEC 2020 (or to be more precise, outlawed sale of the devices as of Jan 1 2020).  The good news is, only one US state has adopted NEC 2020. So they should still be available, but don't count on that supply to last.


I suppose you could do what you're describing; but, my years of building deck and fence in college tells me it's a bad idea.
Even with rock and shale (and no topsoil) wood resting on the ground picks up water, which accelerates rot, even if the wood is treated.  Also, nearly all deck framing assumes strong anchor points, so a wooden base (enforced or not) would have more lateral movement than most anchoring systems.
If you don't like posts in concrete (in my area there's enough water that these are problematic) I'd recommend looking at piers to replace the posts.  These are concrete cylinders that the entire deck framing rests upon.

If you get 50 MPH winds, then a gust would easily be a very temporary 70 MPH.  Even with low winds of half of that, I can't imaging rebar directly in dirt having enough surface area contact with the surronding earth the hold back an 8 foot lever being pushed on it's top end with 50 MPH winds.
Put the posts at least 6" below the frost line, and minimally two feet deep.  The cost of the wood that will go into the deck should be enough of an incentive to do the deck's foundation right.


How can I regulate pressure to a BAXI LUNA 240i boiler?

Here's the manual in Italian and Spanish1, if you can read it.
The part about pressuring is usually covered at the beginning in maintenance but more fully explained in the installation section.

1 Cheers for clarifying the language.


Corner brace with countersink on opposite sides?

I'm going to guess, but it might be an 'outside corner bracket'? You could modify a standard corner brackets countersunk openings by using a countersunk bit on the reverse-side of the bracket.


Should I use a 6 mil poly moisture barrier for engineered hardwood floor installed over concrete slab-on-grade?

For what it's worth, what I wound up doing is using the Floor Muffler underlayment, which is its own moisture barrier. As per the directions, I applied it over the subfloor and about 2" up the walls.

It's hard to see, but I have indeed left an appropriate half inch expansion gap between the wood and the drywall. And this is engineered hardwood so I don't expect it to move all that much.


Can I run wire from my meter to a shed for a subpanel?

No, the cabling run from service to shed needs to have overcurrent protection.   Your local authority might allow it under the tap rules, given a pretty good reason... But "out of space in my panel" definitely won't qualify.

It sounds like you should start with a subpanel in your home to move the smaller loads out of your main panel.  This is a big job like the Platte river is wide (but not very deep).  And it's very DIYable at sane cost. It will set you back a panel (some of which come with free breakers), a big double breaker, and some breakers if your new panel uses a different type (which may be a good idea if your current panel is a builder-grade cheapie, or if GFCI and AFCI breakers are unduly expensive for your panel.)  And of course wire and the odd junction box or bit of conduit.

If your existing cables are too short to reach the new subpanel, install new junction boxes to where they can reach.  Splice them there onto some more cable to the new box. Bonus points if you can make the box-to-panel run in conduit; but only 4 circuits are allowed per conduit.

Get the biggest panel you can fit; a few extra spaces are cheap, and often even come with more free breakers.  60 spaces is not too large.

Leave your main panel feeding only large loads and subpanels.


How do I change an overhead light fixture from one bulb to two bulbs?

The first rule of novices replacing fixtures (or anything) is only mess with the wires that go to the old fixture.  Don't touch things that are outside project scope, no matter how interesting they seem.   That is to say, resist the urge to learn electrical by dismantling your house.  Get a DIY book on the subject and read it through.

Safety Ground wires don't need much thinking, because they all go together.

The clump of all-white wires is certainly neutral, and an appropriate place to terminate the white wire(s) from your fixture.   What is always true is that the place the old lamp's white wire went, is correct -- barring previous incompetence of course (and novices are in no position to judge competence).

What remains is the switched-hot wire(s) from the fixture, presuming you want the lamp to be switchable.  If that wire comes from the ceiling box, it is usually a solitary (connected to nothing else, who else would want a wire that is only energized with the lamp on?) This will be the wire that went to the lamp's black wire before.

Color coding is often not that helpful.  Switched-hot is a type of hot, and all hot wires can be any color not reserved for neutral or ground. Installers get no choice of color since all cables come only black/white or black/white/red.  However by convention it's preferred to use red for that when possible.  So red is a good bet, and since you say the old lamp's wires went there, that all jibes.

Black and white

Your idea of connecting both lamp whites to the white cluster, and one black to supply black and one black to supply red -- the result was one lamp is always-on, and the other is switched.  You may have missed that if you weren't paying close attention. (Light works on a log scale like sound, so half the light is only 3db dimmer.  3db isn't a lot).

In this LED age, it costs so little to run small lights that I have started wiring some lamps to be always-on for safety and put small 3-4 watt LEDs there. ($3-4 a year). In a 2-lamp fixture I'd make one lamp switched and put a very strong LED in it, so you have low/high instead of on/off.

If it also has switched receptacles

Lastly, if you have split bulbs black and red, and it still doesn't switch, there's a fair chance the house also has switched receptacles... and a novice (no names mentioned) replaced the receptacles and wasn't paying attention to the breakaway "tabs" between the two sockets on the hot (brass screw) side.  That would defeat the switch, causing the red wire to be always-on.

The cure is to search all the receptacles in the room, looking for red wires or anything abnormal.  In such a location (there may be several), get some spare receptacles (they are $3) and break the brass-screw-side tab off.  If doing this causes downline receptacles to stop working on both sockets, it was the wrong thing to do; tabs can't be de-broken so swap in a spare receptacle. Needles to say, cut power at the breaker and confirm it's off before opening up a receptacle.


Commonwealth countries normally use British standards in electrical wiring. For household wiring, there will be two distinct outlet from the distribution/circuit breaker board. One is 6A lines for the lighting circuits, and another one is 20A lines for all power outlet sockets. Lighting circuits are wired using 1.25 millimeter squared wires and the power outlet wires are 2.5 millimeter squared copper cross section area.

So, what you might have read from the internet is, anything connected or plugged in to the outlet socket is protected by the 20amp breakers. These breakers are rated actually to protect the wires in the house wiring, not to protect the appliances plugged to the sockets.

Properly rated fuse is already attached in your appliance power plug or embedded in its internal wiring. The 200Watts chiller is definitely consumes less than one ampere nominal current and its startup current may be three times higher, no way a 20Amps breaker will protect it unless it fully burnt and melt down.


You don't need to put in another box somewhere, but if you want the lights controlled separately and the outlet always on, you will need to run another cable from the switch box to the outlet box.

The new cable does not have to physically follow the existing cable, it just has to connect the same two junction boxes.

You can't just add a /2 cable and use both wires as switched hots with return via the neutral wire in the existing cable. Electrical codes and safety considerations require that all current that flows through a hot wire to a load must return via a neutral wire in the same cable.

You can either abandon or remove the existing /2 cable and replace it with a /4 cable, or keep the /2 and add a /3 cable.

If you install a /4 cable, the wiring is simple. You have one neutral, a constant hot, and two switched hots. Three loads use one hot each, and they all share the one neutral.

If you add a /3 cable then it is vital that you keep the two cables completely independent, so that one of the three loads is connected only to the hot and neutral in the /2 cable, and the other two loads are connected to the two hots and the one neutral in the new /3 cable.


Which type of PVC for exposed outdoor use?

All PVC is subject to UV light degradation.  PVC without UV protection will eventually suffer a loss of impact resistance.  Your pipe will be whole, until impact at which it will shatter or crack instead of flex.

Some PVC (PVC UVR) is UV resistant.  The sunlight still damages the PVC pipe, but it is in a matrix of other chemicals that compete for the UV light (stealing it away from the would be damaged PVC).  PVC UVR will degrade, but at a slower rate.

Thicker wall pipe will take longer to fail, as the UV will be caught by upper layers before penetrating lower layers.  Painted pipe will not fail, provided that your paint blocks or reflects UV light (and nearly all paints do).

You are right, a lot of people use PVC pipe, but mostly it is meant to be used in buried applications (where it will be shielded from UV light); however, most of those buried applications come out of the ground at some point.  Typically the out-of-ground portions are not properly protected, which is just a timer for eventual failure.

Sometimes that's due to ignorance, sometimes people rationalize that PVC is so cheap the pipe repair in the future will be cheap too.  Save yourself the headache of doing it twice, paint your PVC.


I have used cinderblocks up to 3 layers high on a large tub 9x9. I would put the blocks directly on the slab then fill them with gravel. The cinderblocks are not known to be strong unless filled but if they are filled even a large tub held up for almost 20 years.


Can Cat 5 cable be run in metal conduit?

As long as you're not running power in the same conduit or parallel to the conduit within about a foot you will be fine.


Don't walk, but RUN to your closest licensed electrician to fix this problem.

There is no workaround.

It simply needs to be fixed correctly.

This is a life-threatening situation.  Until you get a contractor out to look at it, avoid all contact with that outlet.


Old bath towels work very well to protect floors if you double or quad fold them. Lift on the front of the kitchen range unit to get the towel in under the front feet or base.

Then slide out the range unit the few inches needed. It can actually be helpful to have one person pulling out on the top back of the range (which transfers the weight of the unit onto the front feet or base) whilst at the same time have another person tug on the end of the towel stack to help nudge the range out from the wall.

When you have the unit pulled out is also a good opportunity to inspect and clean the area behind the range.


How do I hack cheap garden/solar lights to make a remote solar panel array?

Am I missing anything? Is there a piece of equipment I'm overlooking?

Yes. Large solar panels can be bought individually rather than cobbled together from smaller ones. These are designed to feed from the panel as-built rather than having to be modified. Example here.

So what you need to do is find a low voltage garden light system (perhaps one powered by the mains as suggested by @longneck) then replacing its mains voltage converter with a feed from a battery pack charged by the panel. The battery packs could be central or at each light.


If you can get a plunger to seal over the overflow hole, you might be able to force some air in there, or vacuum some air out, and dislodge the clog.

These things are very inexpensive and might work where the wire hanger did not.  Some are more flexible, some are pretty stiff.  You might also try a flat steel drain snake, just be careful and don't apply too much force.


How do I keep a clean recycle bin for organic material?

You could put your organic matter in a sealed bucket  and then only transfer it to the the green bin the nite before the collection day. Or you could build or buy a compost bin and put some of your organic matter in that and let the maggots do what they do, break it down into an excellent compost for gardening etc.

HOW TO COMPOST FOOD SCRAPS


What you are asking, I think is not advisable. To remove the tile without damaging the mud base that is over the hot mopped pan is really asking for trouble. To crack it only in just one spot, will require a repair at least, but it would be better to replace the whole pan. But that itself is its own issue. Removing the whole pan would surely pop a hole in the pan. Then you will be into removing the wall tile trying to get to a good place for a waterproofing tie in. That in itself again is tedious at best and doing that while not chipping the neighboring tile??

To me, the only possible solution would be to remove the drain cover, roughen up the existing tile, (right angle grinder and a lot of dust comes to mind), set an extension on the existing drain, lay new tile and reset the existing drain or a new one like the old one that will fit and look new.

To replace the drain with a totally new one will not be possible, since the hot mopped pan is tied to the existing drain. To mess with that to replace it would be disastrous.

Sorry for the doom and gloom, but shower pans and tile are usually, when done right, are a once and done type of thing.


Why does my hot water smell like wood smoke?

Okay, I needed to replace some damaged caulking in this shower stall, and this smell disappeared right after.

I'm thinking some mold (or mildew, or any other fun guys that like to grow in shower stalls) gave off this smell when heated.

As to why this needed re-caulking: I turn the shower to "hot" and turn it away from the shower stall door, towards the inside (cold water splashing on a person as soon as you wake up isn't Minnesota nice). This spray hits the vertical seam between two pieces of shower surround and eventually takes some caulking with it. Add this abuse up over several months and it's time to go to work.

Thanks for reading.


Light Fixture screw won't hold glass cover

You're right: there's almost certainly a nut floating up there on top of the fixture. The only way you're going to get it is to pull the fixture down a bit:

Note the two Phillips-head screws near the center, each in the narrow end of a keyhole slot. Loosen each of the screws about 1/2". When you're loosening the second one, the fixture will get wobbly
Turn the fixture about 15° clockwise, so that the larger end of the keyhole slots drop off of the screws and you can lower the fixture
Without straining the wires, and being careful where you put your hands, find the AWOL nut that's sliding around the top of the fixture.
Use the nut to re-fasten the central post to the fixture. Tighten it well! (Bonus points for putting thread-lock on it.)
Put the fixture back up onto the Phillips-head screws, rotate it counter-clockwise to lock it in place, and then tighten the screws
Now you can mount the cover back onto the post.


I suspect my house has asbestos since it was made in 1969 and has popcorn ceilings. This is what I have found about asbestos

This is all speculation until you have the house and its surfaces tested.

Once you have those results you will have either:

nothing to be concerned about,
results to base subsequent decisions on.

Until you have the results then you won't be able to make firm decisions, so have it tested.


How to add colour to grout for wall tiles

Just a guess, i would look into dyes or pigments for concrete .

Mix it into a white grout. experiment with colors and ratios, take notes so you can scale up when you find the combo you like.

A quick web search found this web site as just an example.

I Also found this tutorial,

But wait, there is more. If you act now i will include a link to a handy search engine where You also can use the internet to find out things.


Does these electrical issues require an immediate repair?

The envelope of at least one material is missing or damaged.

The electrical installation includes at least a connection with a bare active part under voltage accessible.

Sounds like a missing cover or crumbling insulation on a wire.  The latter is urgent, the former, it depends who spends time in your house and whether they have curious fingers.

The rated current (rating) of the protection against overloads and short circuits of at least one circuit is not suitable for the section corresponding conductors.

Urgent, and easy.

At least one protective device against overcurrent is not placed on a phase conductor.

Urgent, and probably easy.

At least one circuit (not supplying outlets) is not earthed.
There is no high sensitivity differential device < or equal to 30mA.

The latter means no RCD aka "whole house GFPE".  (I hate to call it a GFCI since it's barely that).
Either one of these things I wouldn't consider urgent.  But both together -- Studies of aviation accidents find it usually takes several problems overlapping to down an airplane.  The airplane could do fine with 2 of 3 of the problems, but when all 3 coincide...  They talk about "several slices of Swiss Cheese, and the holes happening to line up".
These two failure conditions are 2 holes already lined up.  Your defense-in-depth is gone.  One more thing fails and you're done.
So yeah, fix at least one of those things, and the RCD is the easier path unless there are serious wiring defects.  One could also do 5mA RCBOs on a per-circuit basis; that is in fact equivalent to American GFCIs, and the more sensitive detection makes it more useful for human safety.
5ma detection is too sensitive for a whole house, which is why whole-house RCDs are 30ma. They are mostly there to detect parallel arc faults.

At least one receptacle is not a shutter type.
At least one socket outlet does not have a 15mm well.

Only an issue around children.  European socket defense is actually pretty good without tamper shutters.


I had a wooden countertop in my island with this same issue and one trick I found was if you put a teatowel over the area and then with an iron on low hold it a ways above the towel and move it around over the area.  Be careful not to get too close or too hot or you could make the mark worse.  Did this successfully to a good half dozen 'hot rings' on the counter.


Should I caulk a front door step riser when I replace it?

Definitely caulk under the threshold and at the ends. Whether you caulk the bottom partly depends on what's behind. If there's a drain plane back there, maybe leave the bottom open so water can weep out underneath. If not, seal it up. There's rarely any harm in caulking unless you trap water.

I recommend urethane or pure silicone caulk. Acrylic latex just doesn't bond as well and shrinks horribly. Keep in mind that silicone isn't paintable, so choose white or clear, as appropriate (clear against the concrete and threshold). Urethane is amazing stuff, but it's difficult to work with, being so sticky. It doesn't let go of clothing or skin for a long time.

I also recommend looking for a solid vinyl board for that location. You won't have to paint it and it'll resist decay much better than wood. As aaron says, if you do use wood, remember to at least prime (if not paint) the back, sides, and endgrain.


Are nail plates required on the exterior wall side of the wall studs?

The code does not differentiate which face of the stud. It simply says:

  "300.4(A)(1)Bored Holes

  In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1¼ in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring."


As isherwood noted in a comment, you need to remove the hinge pins. To get them out, it's likely that you'll also need to loosen the set screw.

Loosen the set screw by backing it off a turn or two. There shouldn't be any need to fully remove it, but if you do, that's not the end of the world, just put it back in enough to keep it from falling out.
Then remove the hinge pin which seems to bolt in. It occurs to me that the hinge pin may actually be a 2 part device, with a bolt up top that we can see and a separate one down below that's not as obvious. Without a 2nd set screw, it's not as likely, but it's possible. There may be a nut of some sort on the bottom that has to be held with another tool while backing off the bolt we can see.
Once you've got the door removed from the hinges, you can take a Phillips to the screws holding the hinges to the door jamb.
Note that the years of accumulated crud & corrosion may require a fair bit of force to loosen these bolts. You may want to put a penetrating oil on and let it soak in for a while if you're meeting resistance. You should be good with the Allen head screws - those generally get a pretty good bite and don't strip often, but the Phillips screw heads will be very easy to strip out if you're not careful.


How can I open a desk drawer that is jammed closed by the stuff inside?

Open it so it jams then back it off a bit, so whatever is causing the jam is not stuck. Then using a ruler, piece of cardboard, or other flat object, work it into the gap so it rests above the drawer contents and presses down on them (or just guides them) to free them from the drawer or frame above.


Horizontal Drains Can Combine Through Wye Laying Flat, Or Can't They?

Yes, it is/has been done often. If you can, I personally prefer to put the wye so that the offshoot is angled slightly down into the main run to create a natural direction for flow.

The only thing I'd caution you on, if your code is picky about it, calculate your DFUs to make sure it is acceptable.

Also... I was looking at your drawing, and this is 100% my personal preference only, I dislike taking the first floor vent off of the second floor flow. If possible I would tap the line ABOVE where the second floor fixtures enter the stack and run that as a second line down to the first floor vents. As far as I know there's no code that requires it, but I prefer to keep my vents dry at all times. (Which you have done in the drawing)


How can I smooth and repair cracks in a plaster wall?

This is the step by step process I use.

Dig out all the loose material from each crack. Blow out debris with compressed air.
Brush a bonding agent into the cracks and allow it to dry.
Force setting type joint compound into cracks and while still wet over lay the cracks with fiberglass mesh tape and press it flat into mud against surface.
Let it dry, then knock off any lumps or bumps and apply a second coat, feathering all edges.
Let dry and sand area to smooth it out.
Apply a coat of topping mud to perfect your patched area making it as smooth and trowel mark free as possible.
Let dry then lightly sand remove dust and prime patched area.
After it dries repaint the walls and ceilings with a quality acrylic paint.


Changing out programmable Light Switch, wire help needed!

Green in house wiring is always ground, White is neutral. Hot is usually black or red but can be many other colors. The green wire goes to the bare copper ground. The white goes to white the neutral. Now the question is what black wire is hot, The black that is connected to both switches is the line side or hot leg. The switched leg is the black on the other side of your switch in the photo. This black wire going to the load will be connected to your blue. make sure to turn off the breaker while working on this.


Anyone know of a knot to tie two wires together under strain?

The strain relief being referred to in comments:

You'll probably need to visit an electrical supply store in your area to pick one up, I've never seen them in a big box store.


Yep, if there wasn't insulation &/or gravel under it, that would cause hollow sounding areas. But, he definitely screwed-up on not doing a control joint...every 10' is normal as well as required for exterior slabs.

However, your best course of action is to cut that crack open. Not actually all of the way through, but at least an inch deep. Control joints are meant to crack & making them in the first place usually ensures that any cracking will happen within them.

Since you only have 1 crack though, then you really don't have any other choice but to take that crack's lead. It would be reasonable to expect that there wouldn't be any other cracks in the future after that stress relief & stress relief focusing measure.


Part P required? Changing Fixed Oven wiring to 13A FCU (UK)

Since April 2013 a kitchen has not been a special location under the amended Part P of the Building Regulations.

  Under the new, revised regulations, electrical work undertaken in
  kitchens such as adding a new socket or work outdoors such as
  installing a new security light will no longer be notifiable unless a
  new circuit is required.

https://www.niceic.com/Niceic.com/media/Schemes/NICEIC-Part-P-Updated-Factsheet.pdf

The work should still be done in compliance with the IET Wiring Regulations, but need not be notified to Building Control.

What you, or the person doing the work should do, ideally, is carry out basic testing on the circuit (polarity, earthing) and make out a Minor Works Certificate accordingly. Templates of MWCs are available free online, but to do the testing in strict compliance with the Regs would require a calibrated tester.


Two long for a comment:
Never call a plumber for an hvac issue. Without a trap the air handler may pull a vacuum on the drain line. The line worked at one time so it is probably blocked this is a daily issue for the residential guys, if the coil, pan and drain line were not properly cleaned it’s time to get it clean or the problem will return. Now look at that coil on the air handler if you are cooling your home and there is any humidity guess what, that coil will start producing water we call it condensate. It is how the unit works, now that the trap has been removed make sure not to turn the fan on while in cooling mode or you may have a real flood. Water dripping from the coil is a normal part of how an ac system works, pit a glass of ice water on the counter notice the moisture developing and maybe beads of water running down the glass, now multiply that by a thousand and you have a normal evaporator coil (the one in the air handler).  It is normal to see gallons a day on a central air system.
The big thing is to clean the “growth and dust” out of the coil, pan and drain. Non acid cleaners are the best,
You may want a hvac tech to set up the trap again, depending on the location these can be 2-3 times as tall as a standard trap to keep the water in the trap.


The inside coil of the A/C unit has ice on it when the temperature outside is cooler than 65 degrees

Most A/C units do not work well at temperatures below 65 degrees. Years ago, we would install a low ambient control. Ask the HVAC people that service your unit to install a "low ambient control device" to help keep the head pressure up to allow the unit to operate below 65 degrees.


how to fix: the lock core came out and it's still locked?

If a prybar won't deflect the top enough to open the drawer, take a hacksaw blade and saw off the locking bolt.


determining floor type for dealing with squeaks

if that is old hard wood a screw would most likely split the wood i would use a good deck adhesive then predrill small holes if you can without them being noticable use finish nails and always try to hit a joist if u can  most are 16"or 24"on center or apart from each other


tub won't drain – I think lift bucket broke off

Remove the overflow spout and grab the rod and see.


You can use a wireless ceiling fan switch for this purpose. I also have an older home that has plaster walls, and a ceiling that I don't want to touch. The only thing I needed was power to the ceiling fixture.

The remote control has 2 main parts. There is a small relay box which is attached to the fixture, and there is a wireless remote control that can be attached to the wall. All you need to do is wire the relay to the fixture, and you are good to go. The relay can usually be hidden in the junction box or the fixture itself, so it would be invisible.

The other option would be to fish some NM wire across the ceiling, and down the wall. This will involve some cutting of the wall and ceiling in a few places. You would also need to drill through the top plate of the wall, which is probably quite thick in such an old house. There are electricians out there that do that kind of work, but it won't be cheap.

There are also controls out there designed to be used in a smart home, but you would also need the infrastructure in place to use it. At minimum, you would need internet access and a smart hub to use it. The cost of setting up one of these systems is generally not worth it for a single fixture.


How to cut concrete block with a circular saw

If you can find the same size arbor (hole in the blade) it works great. A thin blade uses less horsepower but won’t last as long. Make sure to blow the dust out of the motor after done as it will shorten the motor life if left in the motor.
I do this with a table saw and skill saw for brick and cinder blocks when I want a clean cut. Also wear a dust mask you dont want to breathe the dust.


Can I use bolts to attach a bed to the walls of my room?

As long as the wood that you use to construct your bed frame is strong enough in its own right to be used as a bed frame you should have no problems supporting the frame from both ends by bolting into the concrete wall.

Bolts that are 1/2" in diameter should be plenty strong in shear to support a bed frame mounted in this manner. Three or four equally spaced bolts per end would give you an even distribution of support for the frame at each of the concrete walls. If you can penetrate the walls by two to three inches and install good quality anchors there should be no problems with the bolts staying tight and in place. Using a drop-in internally threaded anchor type should provide you the ability to use standard threaded bolts that can then be removed easily with the anchor staying in place in the wall. If you look at the RM-12 type you'll need 5/8 inch holes in the wall that are a minimum of 2" deep. This type of anchor also includes the need of a setting tool to expand the anchor into the concrete before installing the threaded bolts. The RM-12 offers a 3/4" thread depth.

For best application of the bed frame it would be recommended to build it to fit to the shape of the walls so that the end pieces can be solidly bolted up to the wall. If you elect to stay with the rectangular frame and then I would recommend that backer be placed behind the end piece where each bolt is located. Obviously a wedge piece, as you surmised, would be the best as a full length backer. If you do go with just backer blocks or the wedge one way to get a nice look would be to add an additional facer trim board as shown below. If the gap out of square across the width of the bed is only 1" you will never notice it once you get a matress and bedding up on the deck.


How proud can a toilet flange sit above the floor?

There isn't much allowance for raised flanges in most US toilets I've seen. The critical feature is how much higher the under toilet "ceiling" is than the bottom perimeter base that sits on the finished floor. Since this dimension is intended to work with a standard wax ring, there's little chance a 3/4" protrusion will work. Not only do you need physical clearance between the flange and the "ceiling", there also must be room for the wax sealing ring.

The other potential conflict is the outlet horn and how it fits into the small bevel of the flange fitting. Again, there needs to be room for the wax to fill this gap. You do not want any direct physical contact between the flange and horn.

Simply supporting the flange is not enough. The perimeter base must be fully supported. If you try to install the toilet as things are, the toilet will be balanced on the wax ring. It will wobble every time it is sat upon, eventually forcing all the wax out until the "ceiling" is bearing directly in the flange. While the wobble will diminish at this point, it will still wobble. The seal would obviously be compromised.

Whatever you do, the perimeter base must be solidly supported. The obvious solution is lower the flange, though very difficult in your case. Another solution would be to raise the floor, which I imagine would be undesirable. The only other possible solution would be to raise the support of only the toilet base, such as setting it on a grout bed. Depending on the nature of your flooring and the actual final thickness of the grout, this may not be too bad a solution. You would need to spend enough time finishing the exposed grout around the toilet base so that it is smooth and easy to clean.


Luxaire furnace ignitor shuts off before gas valve opens

The timing is usually based on conditions not all ignighters are the same some get hotter quicker,.
Quit throwing parts at it.
Look up your model , error codes, I found for that brand
7 or 8 flashes flame could not be established after several attempts,
2,3 or 6 flashes pressure switch problems,
4 or 11 flashes limit switch.
All of these point to different things and the timing being different can be because of the failure of a component or set point.
Most units have a removable panel that when you remove it it kills power to the board.
There is normally a plunger switch that can be pulled out and this is a service mode so you can see the flashes on the board when it fails.
Try this to identify what is causing it not to light and get to the problem without wag (wild ass guess) now you will be troubleshooting so you move up to swag (scientific WAG).


You should take a sample of the water to a lab for analysis if you're really concerned. There are minerals that fluoresce under UV light, so it could be that and not bacteria. But I doubt that anyone other than a lab will be able to offer more than speculation on the matter.


Banging noise coming from somewhere every time when open or close the tap

Is this a new phenomena? You're describing "water hammer" and it's caused by a sudden pressure change causing the pipe to jump, basically. There are a few strategies but since you're saying multiple things cause it, start by making sure there's no place where a loose pipe can bang against other objects, such as wall framing.  In all likelihood you need a "water hammer arrester" installed (or replaced)


How to Winterize an Outdoor Shower with no Valves

If plumbing supplies an exterior shower that is subject  to freezing weather then any standing water must be drained or it may break the pipes as it freezes. Just shutting the valve off will not remove the water beyond the valve.  Depending on the pipe material, your plumbing skills, and how the piping is configured it would be wise to install valves on the lines that will be subject to freezing weather, but they should be inside if possible. It might be a good idea to also install a "T" connector (also inside) at a low point to the line in order to drain any standing water that would otherwise damage the pipe if frozen. You could attach a hose bib (spigot) to the "T" to make winterizing a simple job. "Ball valves" are best for the shut off valves.


How can I determine if CAT5 cable is wired for data or phone?

If they are not terminated, they have no signals at all, until you terminate them and connect them to something.

Blue/white(with blue stripe) is normally the "line 1" pair in cat 5 cable used for phones. Green/white(with green stripe) is the standard line 2 pair, in the presently unusual case that you actually have 2 land-lines. Pins 4&5 for blue, 3&6 for green, on an 8-pin RJ-45. I would open the box (or the "Customer side" of the box if it's a Telco disconnect, not as likely inside the house - normally inside the house wiring is all yours) and look.

If you have a meter, it's easy (if tedious) to sort out the unconnected ones, if you are saying that you have a utility room that has a bunch that not terminated there either - strip a little and connect a 9V battery to a wire pair, then go looking for the other end with 9V across the wires you put it on. Label as you go, and it will get faster as you'll have fewer to check. Test leads with clips make this process easier but are not absolutely required.

Use reasonable care when testing for live phone lines - if it happens to ring, the voltage is significantly higher than the 48V you see when the phones are on the hook. On the other hand if it's completely dead (not as common with E911 laws) there may be no voltage at all.


How to fix joist hangers where joist is not fully on seat of hanger

Sorry if this sounds insulting, but that is terrible work.

Build a temporary wall underneath to hold the joists in place while this is being fixed.

Then remove the hangers, cut all the joist ends to 1-5/8" off the beam, stuff a new 2x behind, then re-apply the hangers. (Use plenty of long nails to attach the new 2x to the old beam.)


Disconnect your water lines (after turning the water off of course).
Remove your Water Handles.
Remove the cartridge from inside the unit, there might be a Circlip retainer in the inner side of the cartridge area.


Who can give PAT test labels out in the UK?

PAT test labels have no legal protection in the UK.

There is no legal reason to stop any person purchasing PAT test labels.

Portable Appliance Testing is not mandated in UK law.

In many situations (e.g. a typical office) simple visual inspection every two or three years may be adequate. This can be done by any unqualified person. If desired by management, they can stick a PAT label on anything they have looked at.

  There is a widely held misconception that all portable equipment needs portable appliance testing and often annually. The law has not changed. There is no requirement to carry out portable appliance tests (PAT) ... You don't need to be a qualified electrician to carry out inspection or testing, but some basic knowledge is needed.

- HSE Case 9.

References

Health and Safety Executive (HSE) - "Maintaining portable electrical equipment in offices and other low-risk environments"
HSE Case 9


Can a furnace high limit switch be bypassed for testing, and is that dangerous?

Yes, you can bypass the high limit switch for testing. It's as trivial to do as it sounds.
It's the acme of foolishness to run it like that for any length of time, though, and I think you already know that it could cause more damage. The high limit switch is there to protect against the type of heat damage you describe, along with fire. I'm amazed that metal melted without burning down your house. And yes, CO can build up due to a clogged heat exchanger, which is probably what tripped the limit switch to begin with.
I'd get a different repairman and suggest to this one that he's lucky you aren't suing him for criminal negligence or unintentional homicide. Chances are what he did was actually illegal.


blower motor only starts after I turn power to it off and back on

Often, when the solution is to reboot it... that's an electronic problem. Something like that could be anything from a safety (temperature?) switch to a microchip error on a cpu.

Since you have a brand new motor, the installer should cover the repair, or know more about it. Usually work is warrantied.

Obviously, someone needs to trace the electrical system. If the installer won't do anything (for whatever reason), you still probably want to call an HVAC guy before calling an electrician though, as it may be a problem that they've seen before (especially with motors that have been replaced).


do i add a number to alumiconn connectors when using for repair work of aluminum wiring

Splicing devices don't have a box fill allowance, even though they may be chunky!

NEC 314.16(B) does not include wire-splicing or wire-connecting devices in its calculations; however, your concern is not misplaced, as the AlumiConn is indeed a chunky critter compared to a regular wirenut.  Fortunately, I doubt most folks will complain if you whack a surface raceway extension (starter) box onto the existing receptacle box to provide extra space, though.  If you have metal boxes, you can also use a standard single gang extension box or mud ring, but nonmetallic box extensions do not appear to be able to be stood off from the underlying wall surface, which is unfortunate when box volume is the reason for the extension.


As this is, as you suggest, effectively a long extension cable, as long as you don't exceed the 13A maximum that you can draw from the single plug, there is little to stop you doing what you suggest (though it would be prudent to check that you will have enough "headroom" in your proposed cable in terms of voltage drop and earth loop impedance).

While you could run armoured cable, you might not want to. SWA can be pretty "uncooperative", although this is less of a problem at the cable sizes you are likely to need for a 13A load.

Personally, I'd give serious consideration to using some 2.5mm2 arctic grade flex rather than SWA, as it will be a lot more compliant to get it connected into the plug. (I'm guessing you'll need 2.5mm2 to meet the requirements for voltage drop over that distance and the earth loop impedance). Unless of course, you have particular concerns about damage to the cable.

For protection, it would also be worth making sure that the this is fed via an earth leakage circuit breaker, be it either in the plug, socket, or within your current consumer unit.


Running wire to ceiling with double joist parallel to wall

After explaining this to the AHJ, he proposed running NM in conduit around the back side of the wall. This took some creative bending (me being a first time conduit bender, at least), but the end result is solid and passed rough electrical inspection:


Can I reduce static pressure in one room by adding a vent to an adjoining room?

Yes, adding a transfer grille or jump duct will be the easiest and most effective solution. It can be done in a way to minimize transfer of sound between rooms (see links below). Adding a return to the master bedroom doesn't guarantee that the supply/return to the master bedroom will become balanced—the resulting pressure may still be positive or even negative with respect to the rest of the house.

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/information-sheet-transfer-grilles-and-ducts/

https://basc.pnnl.gov/resource-guides/transfer-grilles


How to mount floating loft stairs to the wall

Well, the boxes themselves appear to be structurally adequate to carry human weight. The 3-4 inch lap between the boxes also provides some stiffness and weight bearing. The trick would be in fastening them to the walls in such a way as to withstand the large tensile (pulling) forces. A few ideas come to mind:

Decorative or hidden angle brackets, mounted to the wall and the upper surface of each step.
Dual-thread bolts, with lag threads into the wall framing, and machine thread on the extension, which would need to pass through most of the upper step panel with washer and nut applied behind the face trim.
Direct framing attachment, where the stair components are fitted around the wall framing and anchored to it. In this case, insulation and wall paneling would be fit around the stair components.

However it's done, the individual boxes need to be well-built, using an appropriate adhesive, quality sheet goods, and mechanical fasteners where possible.


Are there any other reasons to use 130 volt halogen light bulbs instead of 120 volt bulbs?

130V bulbs, sometimes known as "rough service bulbs" are designed for areas where the quality of electrical service flucutates and can go over 120V or for use in places that are frequently bumped or have frequent vibrations or shocks.  These bulbs have a more durable lighting fillament.


124V neutral to ground and 65v hot to neutral when circuit is off?

You used a high-impedance digital voltmeter (DVM), which can pick up induced or capacitively coupled current from nearby wiring. Put a resistor, perhaps 470 kilohms or 1 megohm, across the leads, to effectively "short out" the very low coupled voltage.


Whole home humidifier suspected of causing water softener problems

I think you've hit it on the nail. The humidifier takes a slow trickle of water, too slow to turn that impeller. This leaves the softener thinking no water is being used, when actually lots of water (over time) is being used. Eventually the media becomes saturated long before the softener decides to regenerate it.

Ion-exchange water softeners absorb calcium and magnesium and replace it with sodium. So, it seems likely that your humidifier will get gunked up no matter which side of the softener you connect it.

Edit: Is there a way to externally and electrically trigger a softener recycle? If so, then perhaps you can have a timer driven by the humidifier that, once every other day of humidifier runtime, triggers a recycle. Make sure that the softener does NOT perpetually recycle if the timer stops at just the wrong moment.


What could be damaged if I shorted the R wire to the C wire at my thermostat?

If you short the R wire to the C wire, you've effectively created a very low resistance closed circuit across the secondary of the 24V transformer in the HVAC system. This causes the current in the circuit to be high, which may quickly overheat the wires.  In a typical household circuit, the circuit would be protected by a circuit breaker (or fuse) which is designed to open (trip) to prevent damage to the wires in this situation.  Since the thermostat is on the secondary side of the transformer, the circuit breaker for the HVAC system may react too slowly, or not at all.

Ohm's law says that current (I) in a system, is equal to voltage (V) divided by resistance (R). If we assume it's a 24V transformer, and that there's 50' of 18 AWG wire between the transformer and the thermostat.  So voltage is 24 volts. We'll say resistance is about 0.6 Ohms; since in this example we have 100' of total wire in the circuit (50' R, 50' C), and 18 AWG wire is about 6 Ohms per 1000'.

V = 24
R = 0.6
I = V/R = 24/0.6 = 40 amperes.

Since 18 AWG wire is only rated to carry 14 amperes @90°C, the 40 amperes running through the wire could be enough to damage it.

Wire resistance and ampacity values from WikiPedia
These values are an estimate, and intended for example purposes only.

The first thing you should check, is to make sure the circuit breaker for the HVAC system is not tripped. It's also possible the onboard fuse of the furnace control board blew.

If the breaker is not tripped, it's possible that the coil wires in the transformer or the thermostat wires are damaged.  You'll want to start by doing a continuity test on the R and C wires, to insure they are intact and not damaged.

You'll also want to do a continuity test on the secondary of the transformer, to insure it's not damaged. To do this, you'll have to completely disconnect the transformer from the wiring, which means you'll also have to turn off the circuit breaker (and make sure power is off with a non-contact voltage tester).


How do I protect the front side of a wood retaining wall?

If the boards (& posts) are properly pressure-treated for ground contact, then there should be no need to worry about them rotting due to contact with ground/dirt on either side. For what it's worth I think it looks fine as is, but if you choose to add fence boards, they would either need to avoid ground/soil contact for be rated for ground/soil contact in their treatment.

The garden boxes appeal to me, but that's because I'd grow stuff in them - if that's not you, then they might be a waste of materials. Depending exactly how/where they are built, I guess they might also reenforce the wall.


Type of beadpanel to use for wainscoting in a bathroom

Actual wooden beadboard has been used in bathrooms for decades. It needs to be well primed and painted to do well, and it probably should not be used on a tub surround. MDF shyould be significantly more moisture resistant than wood, again if properly prepared.

There is no question that vinyl would be much more moisture resistant than either wood or MDF. But many people do not like the look of vinyl.

If you application is not especially demanding, you are probably fine with MDF.


I recommend the Chad 5000 (my neighbor's teenage son)

He's self propelled, runs on Mountain Dew, and costs next to nothing.


Range hood impeller slipping on rotor shaft

Put a drop of super glue on the bare shaft, then slide the impeller fully into place. Put the nut on without gluing it. Leave it for an hour so the glue can set up. You could also use a threadlocker liquid on the shaft. I have repaired loose impellers for combustion air fans inhigh efficiency furnaces. I also use this repair for bath fans and rangehoods.


What to do with small space at the edge of the step when tiling floor?

Two options:

you could taper the tile as necessary and fit a nose strip.
Lay that last single tile at a slight angle so it shares that gap equally either side. But wide grout lines may be "odd"...

Edited based on comments, and option 1 seems favorite...


All exterior walls of the original building are load bearing. You can, however open up an exterior wall as long as you install a properly sized header to bridge the opening and support the header with jack studs. Depending on which way the floor joists (two story) or ceiling joists (single story) are oriented, you may need to install a temp support beam that spans the area where you are going to open up. This temp is installed before you remove any framing from the wall. Once you jack the temp enough to relieve any stress from the existing wall, you can demo the wall, build your header, support the header, then release the load down onto the header.  Fairly simple process, but must be sized and installed correctly.


Adding a 4 way switch to 2 existing 3 Way switches

This diagram describes what you want (source), it's just complicated by the box positioning. Normally you do it in a series

Three-way
Four-way
Three-way

I think you can tweak this to make it work.

In Box #1, the incoming hot (the 14-2 black) should connect to the black screw of your switch. Wire the black from the 14-3 to your 14-2 neutral white.

Put your 4 way into Box #2 and wire it as shown in the diagram, but instead of nutting the black wires together, nut the white wire from your fixture (14-2) to one and the black to the other (it doesn't matter which you connect to).


Are 9kg bricks too heavy to build an arch

I don't think weight - at 9 kg/brick - is an issue in this particular situation. Masonry is heavy by design. In another case I might consider weight to be an issue, just not the main thing here.
The key issue here is the shape. The way to do this is to use bricks that are designed for arches. Something like this Googled set of arch bricks for sale.
You can also cut rectangular bricks to turn them into wedges, but since this is a common problem, wedge-shaped bricks are readily available and a whole lot easier to work with.


Can I tell whether a LED driver/bulbs are dimmable without damaging them?

For AC powered screw-in LEDs, making them dimmable is hard.  So nobody makes an AC dimmable LED by accident and forgets to list it as dimmable.  Forget that.

DC is a whole different kettle of fish

All the rules are different with DC.  Not least the cabling/wiring rules for circuits under 55 watts.

However, the way dimming works is also totally different.  There is no need to deal with the balky AC waveform, nor any legacy need to play well with a 1960s-tech dimming scheme intended for incandescents.

DC dimming is typically done with PWM, meaning the power supply is switched on and off, faster than the eye can see.

Control is done via this same exact PWM.  A dimmer/controller's output can either control a small amount of lighting, or be the pilot signal to an amplifier that controls a great deal more lighting, or a combination of both.

The market is awash with cheap Cheese junk, but functionally compatible products are also made and UL-listed by reputable makers.

Also, LED is available in full color RGB and RGBW, the same basic scheme except with 3-4 channels for red, green, blue and optionally white.


Is my design for this drain-waste-vent system acceptable?

Every code authority is different. From what I was told when remodeling my house over the last 3 years, is that draining appliances on the same walls can share a vent. Each wall would need a vent. Same drain line is fine, but the vent needs to be within a certain distance of the appliance. I have 1 2" vent that my kitchen and bathroom use, on the same wall. My washer has its own, and my second bathroom has its own.


What tools will help when removing a glued down floor?

If it is vinyl sheet flooring, I pulled up as much as possible to get to the layer the glue is bonded to and used paint remover. It soaked through the layers, softened the glue where I could use a 4" drywall taping knife to remove it to the subfloor.


What is 'hardware cloth' sold as in the UK?

That's also known as welded wire mesh, or woven wire mesh (your picture shows welded not woven mesh).  Stucco netting also might do you.  For supporting a stove chicken wire is probably fine also.


First, read through the EPA site on mold.

If you look carefully, you will not find an EPA recommended product.

Spores can be removed with detergent and water.  Spores can be killed with bleach and other disinfectants (biocides), but the EPA says:

  The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is
  not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup.

More importantly, is the source of moisture under control?  Have all wet areas been exposed and dried out.

Once the interior framing is dried out to 10 to 12%, (consider buying a non-contact moisture meter and insist the framing be dried out before continuing), you can spray seal your framing with a primer to encapsulate any remaining spores and close the walls.


As other comments have stated, it is likely an AFCI or (more likely) a GFCI breaker. Can you determine where that circuit goes? Knowing its termination would help, since some areas, like bathrooms and laundry rooms, are more likely to validate that. Also, it's hard to tell from the picture, but the two white wires shouldn't be connected to each other at the screw terminal. If they are connected, I'm at a loss for what it could be, but if they aren't, then it's some sort of fault protection breaker. I'm a bit surprised by the lack of a test button, though.
It doesn't appear that you have room for a 2-pole breaker to provide 240V for an EV charger. You would need to see the blades on both busbars to indicate room for a 2-pole breaker. In the below image, the red circle shows a blade for the left leg busbar. This is visible in your panel. You would also need the blue circle (right leg busbar) to be exposed.

I know you didn't ask about this, but it seems like it might be a good time for a panel upgrade. You've got five 15A breakers, two 50A breakers, and five 20A breakers for branch circuits all on (what appear to be) tandem circuit breakers, but only a 100A main breaker, which is even taking up space because it's on the busbars directly instead of connected to a lug.

You might want to consider checking if you can upgrade to a larger panel, physically and electrically. Especially for EV charging, which can be a 30A or greater continuous load, you'll probably want to see about 160A service or higher. Depending on the size of the aluminum service entry wires (I can't see what size they are from the picture), you might not even need to replace those.

Something like a 16-slot, 160A (minimum on both) main breaker panel would help you future-proof your panel a bit, especially for adding EV charging capacity. Also, I was able to find a 20-slot, 200A panel with included circuit and main breakers for $150, so it won't likely cost you too much either.


You want to take a look at what is called a Keystone Wall Plate. These have rectangular holes that compatible RJ-45 jacks and adapters can slide in and snap into place. The picture of your adapter looks like it is a compatible type. Here is what one of these looks like (front and back):

Picture Source
You could take careful measurements off one of these wall plates and come up with a suitable 3D model for the hole and retainer edges that you could factor into your 3D printer model.
Alternatively, once you do some research on various types of products that incorporate Keystone modular mount holes, you may decide to purchase some ready made item. Such item could be used as intended or you could take a DIY approach and modify the item to fit your application. Check out the following link for an example 3D printer project.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4302166

Picture Source


Could treated water backflow into my RO system?

It can backflow if you lose pressure. Perhaps from a power outage, or if you draw water faster than the pump can replenish it.

Backflow valves (check valves) are pretty cheap (about $5 - $10). If the consequences are as severe as you make them out to be, I'd put one in.

Also I would add a carbon filter after the RO system, that would remove ammonia and other things, just in case. If the water was clean the filter would not get worn, so it's cheap insurance that you can leave there for a long time without replacing the filter.

PS. It's good you are not trying to drink softened water - the extra salt is not good for you.


Low outlet placement and baseboard issue

It's possible to do, but not easy. There isn't much surface area on quarter rounds. Usually there is a significant gap between the floor and the wall to allow for expansion. Usually, the quarter round is nailed to the baseboard, which is nailed to the studs. Without baseboards, the gap between the flooring and the wallboard doesn't leave much material to attach the quarter round to.

Just because the previous baseboards looked bad doesn't mean your new ones have to. Since it sounds like you're pulling the old ones out, you have the opportunity to select ones that will make installation around the outlets easier or prettier.

Alternatively, if all of your electrical wiring in the area comes down from the ceiling, it might be a simple matter to install new electrical boxes at an appropriate height and move the outlets up.


Can puck LEDs be used for recessed lighting in above bed soffit

Mounting form below I assume. LED puck lights that high off the ground probably won't give enough usable light. They are low light for cabinets to soften the countertop are and add a little light. You probably would still want a can light or the newer lights that are very thin and look like a can light in a way, but you cut a hole in the ceiling portion, connect your wires, then you push the light into place. It has 2 or 3 spring loaded clips that hold it in place. These are LED, come in different light colors, wattage and size. The following is an example:


How should I splice the very short wires for this LED shop light into my 12/2 NM-B?

What you want is a ceiling box that uses an old-work brace

If you have ever been in a hardware/home-improvement store and wondered why some of the boxes had what looked like a long metal brace attached to them, like so (picture for illustration only):

wonder no further.  That brace is meant to go between adjacent ceiling joists and support both the box and a fixture attached to the box, and the box can be adjusted to position it in the joist bay.  The fixture itself then acts as the cover for the box, as per NEC 314.25 and 410.22.

(Trying to support a box using a lighting fixture would likely be seen as a NEC 314.23 violation -- there is no subsection of 314.23 that allows for that.)


The lack of venting does cause the drains to flow slowly. In your case, mostlikely caused by the stack freezing again.

I would suggest you do one or a combination of the following:

1) Insulate the exterior portion of the vent stack. That way it is less likely to freeze during the coldest time of the year (one time fix)

2) Add a heating element around the top of the vent stack. I did a quick search and found a product called ArcticVent. This keeps the exterior and upper portion of the stack warm so that it does not freeze. (one time fix)

3) Pour deicer down the vent stack when it does freeze. Deicer would melt the ice. Obviously this would be a quick fix and you wouldn't want to have to do this often, especially if there is snow on the roof. (repeated and temporary fix)


How to connect dishwasher drawer that's installed above counter level

Wow, what an interesting question, and weird setup.

Personally, I agree with you. A clog or backup would have one heck of a treck to go uphill like that. Of course, depending on your locality, there may be a code requirement for the air gap, but I'd be willing to argue the necessity to any inspector that said otherwise.


For the three or four concrete block retaining walls I've built none of the concrete block manufacturers mentioned using glue. I have used concrete glue for capstones and the pavers that sit on the retaining wall.

For the largest wall I've built - a little over three feet tall max height - I used a Versa-lok (not an endorsement) type block that used pins.

The most important tip I can pass on to you is - build a wooden model that is the exact shape and size of the block you will be using. Use the wooden model in place of an actual concrete block to level the gravel in your footing.

Leveling the first row requires leveling the gravel, putting a block in the hole, checking level, take the block out of the hole, level the gravel, put the block in the hole, check level, etc. It's a lot easier to move a 2 pound wooden model of a block than a 35 pound block.

Glue Drawbacks
Since I don't build retaining walls for a living I tend to make mistakes and have to re-work sections of the wall. Or, I'll discover a better way to do something and need to take blocks apart. Once, my wife decided she needed me to add steps to a section of the wall...

My concern with gluing blocks is that if you have to pull the wall apart to adjust a section it will be a big mess.

You dig your footing, lay in your base gravel and then lay in your first row.
As you put in your second row - gluing as you go - and you find that you have a section glued in that you'd like to adjust. Even if the glue is not dry pulling it apart will be a mess.

I would have to figure out a way to add the glue only when I knew everything was perfect.

If after the wall is complete the ground settled  - heaven forbid - and the wall needed repair or you wanted to modify the wall for some reason it would be very difficult to disassemble.

Application
Here are the instructions for Loctite landscape glue (not an endorsement)

Preparation:
The temperature of the adhesive, the surfaces and the working area must be between 0°F (-18°C) and 100°F (38°C). For smooth,
fast, easy application during cold weather, store adhesive at room temperature (70° ± 5°F) 24 hours prior to use. Ensure surfaces to
be bonded are clean, structurally sound and free of standing water, dust, grease, oil and/or other contaminants. Pre-fit all materials
prior to applying product. Cut off tip of cartridge at 45° angle to desired bead size. For exterior applications, the recommended bead
size is 3/8” (9.5 mm). Puncture seal inside of nozzle.
Application:
Apply a continuous zigzag bead to one surface to be bonded. Apply the adhesive at a rate so that the materials can be positioned
and fastened within 15 minutes. All projects may require support until adhesive has cured. It is recommended that all foot traffic stay
off of paver stones or retaining caps for at least 24 to 48 hours after installation and heavy traffic for approximately 4 to 5 days after
installation.
For Landscape Blocks:
When installing the cap onto the final course of landscape blocks, apply approximately 2” in from the front and 2” in from the back of
the cap to be installed.
For Concrete Paving Stones:
Apply an “S” shaped bead to the back of the stone to be installed. If using old concrete, clean with a 20% muriatic acid solution, then
rinse with clean water and allow to dry prior to applying adhesive.

Gluing the side of the blocks
You don't need to glue the sides of the block


Is it going to be worth replacing bat insulation with rigid foam between bedroom and garage?

Rigid foam, no, not unless you airseal it. Spray foam, yes. Assuming you define "worth it" as valuing comfort over money. ROI is 10-20 years for just about anything in HVAC, if ever.

I'd pull the drywall off the ceiling in the garage, not pull up the subfloor, unless it was being replaced.

Ridged foam in the attic might be easy to install and do something.

Someone who knows what they're doing might say no matter what the insulation, you have insufficient airflow. I'm going to guess all three: above a garage, below an attic, and longest run from the furnace. Bonus points for unideal sun exposure (get better drapes).


What's the difference between a pilot hole and no pilot hole

Typically, a pilot hole is used to create an "easier" path for driving a screw. In some cases, it is necessary to prevent wood from splitting due to the wedging forces applied by the screw.

Drilling a hole larger than the screw primary diameter will result in an easy driving but provides only for the head of the screw to retain the object being secured.

Having a hole slightly smaller than the primary diameter eases the driving forces, as noted above, and also allows for more "gripping" force of the item being secured, as the friction of the item against the shaft of the screw can be significant. This is mostly applicable if you wish a single point of attachment with minimal or zero rotation.

Screws are not usually loaded in shear, which means the head of the screw should be large enough to accept the forces applied to the item.

Allowing for your description, you would have to drill holes in both the board used as a cover and the portion into which the screws would be driven. In this situation, the holes in the board could be the same diameter as the major diameter of the screw, but the holes in the wood(?) surrounding the opening MUST be smaller diameter, no larger than the minor diameter of the screw (the portion between the threads).

Soft woods such as pine will tolerate smaller pilot holes, sometimes none at all, but that's risky. Hard woods and screws driven near edges of the wood will frequently split when fastened without pilot holes.

The above is a summary of similar information located here:
Why Drill Pilot Holes


Ordinary switches require only "always-hot" (from supply) and "switched hot" (to the lamp).  They do not need neutral.  Because of that, many older switch circuits are wired only with always-hot and switched-hot.

There are many switches which do an extra trick - lighted switch, dimmer, motion sensor, smart switch, timer, you name it.  They need to power themselves.  How? The newer ones attach to always-hot and neutral, getting power the normal way.  However many such devices are made to be compatible with old switch wiring.

As it happens, incandescent bulbs are electrically pretty much a dead short when they are off.  These powered switches can simply leak current from always hot, through themselves, to switched hot - and the incandescent light will not light enough to be visible.   However, LEDs are so efficient that this small current makes them light up slightly.

Your "regular single pole switch" wasn't.  It was a lighted switch or some other powered device.  That's why it leaked a little bit of power through the LEDs.   When you switched to a dimmer, you went out of the frying pan into another frying pan, because again you had a switch that leaked power through the LED.

You need to use powered switches (such as dimmers) that attach to the neutral wire.  They will not leak current through the LEDs, and that will quiet them.

Another option is to put a module in parallel with the LEDs that is designed to leak the current that the switch requires, such as Lutron's LUT-MLC module.


LED Bulbs won't fit my garage door opener

I do think the opener is named incorrectly - it should be Ambass-a-door. But that doesn't affect the solution:

Get an extender

IMHO, $2.74 isn't much compared to the hassle of cutting a hole in sheet metal and risking ruining a functional garage opener.


What should I do about this bowing foundation wall?

You have 1 advantage that the wall is only ~5’ below grade. Can it be repaired DIY yes, but this would be quite involved.

I would suggest digging out outside the wall for 2 reasons:

it would allow backfilling with gravel so it could drain and the hydraulic forces would not push it in again.

The second reason a temp wall set inside to support the home will allow rebuilding.

I would suggest removal of the brick a new footing being poured and a cinder block wall reinforced with rebar being installed once the wall is built, back fill the blocks with concrete. Then seal the outside of the blocks and backfill with gravel.

When I want good drainage I use river rock, not crushed quarry, because crushed packs tighter and doesn’t drain as well.

I would warn this is about as bad as I have ever seen and it really needs to be done prior to collapse. I would be looking for other issues like roof leaks, doors not closing or cut to fit so the door is not square , window problems etc.

You may have all of the above, if I liked the house I would tackle it but I grew up in houses under construction repair and continue today.


Need suggestions for a removable or mobile fence for a parking spot next to the garage

Are you permitted to build out into the driveway toward the street? You could sink a post to the left and right (anchoring the right post to the face of the brick garage). Frame it across the top, hang an upper tubular guide, and build a hanging sliding panel in front of the boat. The panel would span the left ~2/3 of the opening in front of the boat and roll to the right when access is needed.

You could frame up a smaller swinging gate to the right of where the sliding panel is. The sliding panel would cover the swinging gate and part of the garage when open, when closed it  would be like a fence. Something kinda like this:


Frigidaire FEX831FS4 transmission leaked oil. Should I refill? With what?

Don't buy the correct oil if it's that expensive.

Use a high viscosity automotive gear oil typically used in differentials, and just buy the cheapest one you can find in stock at your local auto parts store.

Buy SAE 140 or SAE 110. Those monograde oils should be the least expensive, but if they have a bad selection or a sale then a multigrade oil like 85W-140 would be fine too. Really anything they have there will work, even if it's a 75W-90. If you already have some gear oil in your garage from changing the differential fluid in your vehicle, then just use it.


The concrete looks fine, other than a little surface damage (and obviously the holes themselves). I would drill them out, then fill the holes and damaged area with hydraulic cement.

Make sure you use the drill bit specified by the anchor manufacturer next time. These shouldn't be that difficult to insert into holes.


What could be the source of a tapping type sound coming from my upstairs air ducts?

I don’t insulate interior ductwork either. But I think what you are hearing is the expansion and contraction of the metal ductwork.
The noise can go on for quite a while when heating and then again when cooling down.
Stopping this on a verticals run is really tough and no cheap fixes I have heard of consistently work. I have had people tell me they drilled a series of holes and shot spray foam and it helped, this same “fix” had caused the duct work to start buckling or oil can popping every time the fan turns on or off and this can get really loud.
When that trunk line is more than 1 floor I will use a double layer of neoprene rubber 1/16” at the straps. This keeps the duct from moving on the framework the rubber spaces the duct and absorbs most of the noise but not all there can still be creaking at the joints I have tried to use silicone when assembling and jell type sealer that was available in the 80’s nothing has worked as well as the double rubber.
The problem with double rubber is it takes space and is kind of expensive last would be almost impossible to do after install.
If you try spray foam make sure to not fill the entire cavity because when it expands this causes the oil can affect if you don’t like the tapping you will hate the oil can.


Can I sheetrock over styrofoam on a garage ceiling?

Probably not.  Without pictures I imagine the drywall screws would not have enough grip into the foam to hold them to the ceiling during an earthquake or even a door closing.  Sight unseen of course, I would pull the foam down before I installed drywall.


What do I need to provide the cable company with for grounding, when wiring my own house?

Do a search for "Intersystem Bonding". You should be able to find quite a few devices on the market, hopefully one of them suits your fancy.

Basically, you'll install an intersystem bonding termination device (with at least 3 terminals) near the electrical service entrance. Then you'll bond the IBT back to the grounding electrode system, using a 6 AWG copper conductor. You should be able to find an IBT device that can mount directly to the meter base
 or service panel enclosure, if that's more convenient for you.

Here's an article from the International Association of Electrical Inspectors (IAEI) magazine, that discusses the NEC 250.94 rules.


Cancelling needless freeze protection on pool filter

I suspect the 30°F reading is what the sensor indicates if it were disconnected.  Inspect the wiring between the controller and the sensor which is mechanically connected to the plumbing somewhere.  It could be a sensor failure, but is most likely a wiring problem.


fishing wire from second floor to garage in first floor

I think that using a spade type of bit there will be really tough going. I would use a regular twist bit. Possibly two if it is really tough going - e.g., 1/2" first and then followup with a 1" through the 1/2" starter hole.

If you have access to do so, it may be easier to drill from the bottom up than from the top down because the hole will empty itself thanks to gravity.


What's the cheapest consumer method for testing my rental home flooring for CH2O (formaldehyde) off-gassing?

$100 for a test kit doesn't seem so bad. Sure it's not as cheap as a radon test kit, but it's a much more specialty item.

I would get one and see what it says, then go from there.

(Looking up that Lumber Liquidaters thing it's not clear to me whether the lumber in question is actually dangerous or just mislabeled. Also, off-gassing is generally worst in the first few months... was any of the flooring installed recently?)


What is the best flooring for my basement?

I lived in a house that had standing water once or twice a year.  It had a pad with berber(?) carpet on top.  It dried easy with a space heater and fan within a day of these wet periods.  Usually a 5x10 foot area got wet.   When I went to pull up the carpet both the carpet and pad were in perfect condition.  I asked a friend who had done installations for years and he said that I had an open-celled padding with no moisture barrier and if they are dried out thoroughly within a reasonable time he has never seen mold.

So new house I am in is basically about the same as yours.  I am putting down carpet in part of the basement with pad.  Almost all pads are open-celled and you would have to ask for one with a moisture barrier - so if you go to a carpet store and pick out their normal padding that is the right thing.

Also I am using Trafficmaster Allure Ultra on part of the basement which I have used on jobs.  I am not a HD homer - but I have used this stuff and it is awesome.  It is pure rubber and even if you got mold (you shouldn't) it would just clean right off.

As for your $1000 budget.  You are going to have to get some very low grade carpet to meet that.  Do not get non-floating vinyl.  If you have to install the vinyl to the floor and you do have moisture problems you are in for a big mess.  The recommendation I have above is $1800.  Also a great website for flooring builddirect.com has other all rubber options but they may make you have a minimum order.


Code requirement for burying electrical PVC that runs along foundation

The trench actually needs to be deep enough that the TOP of the conduit is at least 18" deep.
Frankly, you'd be better off paying the slight upcharge for schedule 80 the whole way regardless, because it IS a slight upcharge and you would need schedule 80 for the parts coming out of the ground anyway, and it's a lot harder to break.
The difference is exactly what @isherwood's comment calls out - once it's buried, it's hidden and non-obvious, and "the rules" are that conduit hidden underground needs to be protected. Some landscaper planting rosebushes does not expect to find a power conduit 6" underground, and you won't always be around to tell them it's there, so there are rules.
There are ways to go shallower, but they cost serious money (Using rigid metallic conduit, pouring concrete cover that extends beyond the conduit) and are usually not practical for most people as a result. The conduit on the exposed face of the building can be seen and avoided, and is required to be at least schedule 80 (below 8 feet) as insurance against accidental impacts.
If the issue is that you don't want to see it running on the outside of the house, the simplest (and shortest) solution is usually to run it inside the house if you are heading to "the opposite side of the house" - drywall repair is trivial compared to ditch-digging, and you can use EMT or (I'd personally not) NM cable for the "inside the house" part of the run (still need wet-rated wire outside.)


Looking for a current-actuated timer switch

What you want is a current transducer with a relay output.
I use these to stop motors driving conveyor belts if the drive chain or belt breaks the load drops the current transformer senses the drop and trips a relay. Stopping the motor
The ones I use are fairly expensive AcuAMP act200-10-s
0-10v output  0-100 amp range  96$
I know automation direct carries them I use these on small motors in about 20 places in the mill.
No interest in automation direct I use there products.
The sensor is adjusted for the load and when the pump runs dry the current drops and sets the output a relay is what I use to interrupt the motor.
This could be used but a low level high level setup would be cheaper and make more sense.
Edit added for another method of control.
you could just turn off for a delay then pulse the pump if current high it keeps running if still dry it would shutdown.


Sound deadening in a small (~5x6) room with a glass wall

Assuming curtains for the glass wall are out; acoustic ceiling tile, and a tapestry along as much of the brick as possibly should help considerably.


How do I change which half of a receptacle is controlled by a wall switch?

Yes, that's exactly what you should do.

As a safety measure, while you've got the wiring exposed, double check that the hot (black and red) wires are connected to the brass-colored screw on the receptacle, the neutral (white) is connected to the silver-colored screw, and the ground is connected to the green screw.


Connecting multiple hubs to a single Z-Wave device

As per Z-Wave specification, no. A Z-Wave node (device) can only be paired to one hub (the designated 'primary' controller). 'Secondary' controllers added to the primary controller will lose their z-wave netword/added nodes and just act as a relay remote control. I don't believe adding the Wink Hub as a secondary controller is the option you're looking for since you will lose any nodes added to it and you will have to re-add them to your primary controller (your GE Simon XT for instance).

However, some controllers, such as Vera and VeraLite, allow you to bridge two or more controllers via ethernet/wi-fi and to pass-through Z-Wave requests to devices present on either controller. The controllers remain independent of each other from a Z-Wave point of view, an communicate to each other via your ethernet/wi-fi network. I have not come across this funcionality in GE Simon XT and Wink hubs.

With the Vera Z-wave controllers, as an example of increasing range and reliability, you can:

Install one Vera on your ground-floor. Pair ground-floor nodes to this Vera.

Install another Vera on on your first-floor. Pair second-floor nodes to this Vera.

Designate one Vera as your 'main' Vera (that is, the one you'd use to control via the web, iOS app, Z-Wave remotes, etc - your go-to controller basically). Under this Vera's config, select Add Devices and choose UPNP devices.

The 'main' Vera will then locate the 'other' Vera on your LAN and show the nodes on the 'main' Vera's device panel. You can then control the 'other' nodes via your 'main' Vera. The 'main' Vera will send the required commands via LAN to the 'other' Vera to be sent via Z-Wave to it's associated nodes.


How large must the air inlet tube of the sewage be?

Any other ideas?

Install an air-admittance valve on the sewage side of the trap.


How bad is it to have low spots in a mini-split line set?

one of the diy systems with precharged line sets there instructions specifically state to coil the excess at the system.
Will a low spot be a real problem? I have not seen one although in theory it sounds like it should. Remember the oil is actually carried with the gas/ liquid to an extent so it is being pushed through the system I doubt you will have problems.
The precharged line sets I have seen are 25’ long and when I install a mini split on a single story I usually use less than 12’ so that would leave 13’ to coil up at the compressor.
Get a flaring tool expensive pro ones are under 30$ Cheap ones under 10$.
Cut and re flair. Honestly even if I purchase line sets I almost always cut factory flairs off because they are usually sloppy and uneven.
On the systems I have pumped down for others the leaks have always been at the factory flairs.
I reflair and wet the surface with nylog (a sealant made for this purpose) torque them down and pump down again with no issues.
The extra time costs so don’t be afraid to flair it is quite easy.
As others have mentioned charging a system requires special licenses and training and equipment in most of the world. When the system is pumped down leaks are usually very obvious but the leak location can be harder to find quality flairs are not hard to make just leave an extra foot at the compressor, practice on the pice you cut off then do the real one. (Don’t forget to put the nut on first I have forgotten this when having a beer and BSing with a friend while doing his system, you figure it out real fast lol).


The best solution is to add a dig-out guard to your fence or dog run:

Head to the home improvement store and pick up some galvanized sheet metal about 2 feet wide (corrugated or straight is fine; the stuff they use for roofing and sheathing outbuildings is perfect)
With snips, a hacksaw or a Sawzall, cut the metal to workable lengths, maybe 3-4'. If it's corrugated, you want the curves to be perpendicular to the long dimension of each piece, so that when it goes into the ground the curves are vertical. You may, for appearances, paint the "top" edge of the metal a pleasing color of oil-based enamel; then it just looks like edging. But, being galvanized, the metal will be weather-resistant.
Use a shovel (as straight-bladed as possible) to cut down through the topsoil at least a foot and a half (or as deep as possible) along the line of the chain-link fence. You shouldn't have to really dig much; just push down and then wiggle the shovel to widen the cut.
With a block of wood and a rubber mallet, pound the sheet metal down into the cut you made until there's about 6" of the sheet metal remaining above ground. Press any loose earth/grass down firmly against the sheet metal on both sides. Repeat around the entire length of the fence.
With a drill and a metal-cutting bit, drill two holes a couple inches down from the top of the metal and on opposite sides of your chain links, at regular intervals along each piece and where two pieces meet (each set of holes should probably be no more than the width of your dog's shoulders or the maximum diameter of his body).
With linesman's pliers, cut a length of annealed wire, pass it through the holes from the inside of the fenced area, then twist it into place around a chain-link wire on the outside (bored dogs will chew, and you don't want them chewing on metal wire).
Annealed wire will rust over a period of years if given the opportunity (the idea is usually that it's cheap to replace); you can mitigate this with a shot of clear acrylic or polyurethane spray, or you can just keep an eye on the wires and replace them. They do make galvanized wire specifically for use with chain-link, but it's stiffer stuff for a given gauge and so is harder to work with.

You now have an anchored piece of metal that the dog will have to dig more than a foot down to get under (or will hit impenetrable rock before he gets there), that is attached firmly to the chain-link so the dog won't be able to squeeze between them. This should be far more effective than your tent stakes at preventing him getting under the fence.


There are LED replacement kits that include a bulb, power supply, and trim ring (if you are not wed to your existing ones). They may be less deep than the bulbs you are finding. The bulb base is separate from the rest of the unit to reduce space and ease installation.

Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of any product or source.


Can I use a larger HVAC Hard Start kit than is recommended?

Does your compressor start now? If it does, adding a hard start kit does absolutely nothing beneficial for you and in fact might be harmful. The original intent of a hard start kit was to compensate for voltage drop in the wiring by the time it gets out to a compressor, especially in areas where the utility supply may drop during high use days (i.e. all of your neighbors are home using their AC systems). But for the people who make them, that was not enough sales volume, so they "invented" a problem needing a solution. Their claim is that a compressor starts with high current and that this is damaging the compressor; which is an utter falsehood. The 5-2-1 sales literature starts out with a LIE! It states that "Amps x Volts = wattage" and that wattage is what you pay for. So per their concept, when the starting current goes to 600% (they say 700% witch is an exaggeration), the watts go up so high that the motor over heats. The lie is that watts = amps x volts x POWER FACTOR, and when a motor first starts, the power factor is extremely low. So for example if your 230V motor draws 10A when running, and the PF = 80%, the watts used is 230 x 10 x .8 or 1840W. On starting though, it is going to be 60A x 230V, but the PF is .2, so the watts are 2760, not 13,800 as they would claim.

What the "hard start" kit does is add another capacitor to the motor only for start-up, which compensates for the low power factor, then automatically switches it out of the circuit when the motor gets to 80% speed, usually less than 1 second. It ALSO increases the voltage, which increases the torque, which can be potentially DAMAGING to the compressor. They don't tell you that part!

Hard start kits have a legitimate purpose, but making your compressor last longer when it is not having trouble starting is bogus.

As to your question; yes, if you use a hard start kit intended for a larger motor, it can INCREASE that potential for excess torque damage.