Continuity is NOT a good test as it only verifies a circuit, not how much the wire will carry, ie, a braided wire with only a few strands will test continuous but not carry a designed load.  Have you tried disconnecting each appliance at the its personal connection and taking a reading there to verify the voltage there as opposed to the fuse box ?? If the 240 is present then each appliance individually should be working.  If not is there a reset button, (thinking of a possible surge kicking off the resets but power showing oK after the surge)(we had a lightning hit transformer blow and it kicked every reset and switch in the house).  Get a good set of clamps so that YOU are not holding your test leads in place, remember, circuit brkr OFF,  disconnect or  clamp, close brkr, test reading, check reset, If ALL good  then on to next appliance.


What size subpanel and wire do I need for a swimming pool?

#4 copper is not legal for 100A.  You would need #3 for that.  Some people go around saying #4Cu/#2Al are good enough for 100A; there's a reason they think that, but they're wrong.
Most electricians doing this work for themselves would actually do one of two things.

For the full 100A, use #1 aluminum.  You may have heard negative things about aluminum (you're not getting the whole story)... but aluminum feeder of this large size is perfectly fine and there has never been a problem with it.  Besides, the panel lugs are aluminum lol, as are the buses on most panels.

Re-examine the requirement for 100A.  Quite often people pick it "just because it's a nice round number" without having actually done any load analysis.  If 90A is acceptable, #2 aluminum is a pricing and availability "sweet spot" and several types of cable are available in that size which aren't in #1.

As far as panel spaces, the worst mistake you can make is going with too small a panel.  Feeder (especially 80+ amp feeder) can power a whole lot more stuff than you think it can.  Even a 12-space panel will run out of spaces before it runs out of power.  So I would advise something more like a 24-space, even a 30 would not be excessive.  Breaker spaces are laughably cheap compared to the cost of having to change out a panel because the originally-chosen one was too small.
There's no worry if the bus rating of the panel exceeds the ampacity of the feeder.  Bus ratings are like tire speed ratings; you don't have to drive 130 mph :)   If the panel has a main breaker, it's also fine if the subpanel's main is larger than the supply breaker.  You can never predict which one will trip first anyway.
Spend the money on breaker spaces, not copper wire.


Can pavers set with polymeric jointing sand be powerwashed?

Yes, they can be powerwashed but only if you take the time to do it right and follow the directions to a tee. The joints should be 1/4" wide and as deep as the pavers. Which means you have to remove all the old sand. After applying the jointing sand, compacting is advised and then adding more sand. Extensive cleaning of the surface of the pavers is critical to remove all jointing sand before wetting down the sand. drying and curing time is important too. I just touched on a few of the procedures to use this stuff. It's a lot of work so if you take on the project, take the time to do it right.

You don't want to use a powerwasher set higher than 1600 PSI on the pavers after using the jointing sand.


The Code only stipulates the size of one door in a residence. It requires one egress door that...

has a 32” clear opening with the door in the 90 degree position (which requires a 36” wide door)
is located at a exterior entrance into the residence opening into a public way or open side yard that opens to a public way
does not open into a garage or carport
is a minimum of 78” high measured from top of threshold to bottom of stop
is side-hinged (no sliding doors allowed)

See 2017 ICC R311.1 and R311.2.
The only other requirement is for sleeping room egress windows, but that’s not your question.


How to evaluate the suitability of an electric tankless water-heater

The numbers you need are flow rates and desired temperatures. For example, Home Depot's guide gives the following flow rates:

Bathroom Faucet: 0.5 – 1.5 gpm

Low Flow Kitchen Faucet: 3.0 – 7.0 gpm

Shower: 1.0 – 2.0 gpm

Dishwasher: 1.0 – 2.5 gpm

Clothes Washer: 1.5 – 3.0 gpm

Tankless heaters are rated for how much heat they provide at a given flow. If your incoming water is 50°F, and you want 120°F, you need a 70°F rise in temperature. Now say you want to both run your dishwasher and take a shower. On the high end, you may be looking at 4.5 gpm. You need to find a way to raise 4.5 gpm 70°F. Going back to Home Depot, they sell a Rheem gas heater that will do 77 degrees at 4.9 gpm.

Alternatively, you could combine a whole-home unit with point-of-use units. This is particularly useful if you want to only heat your shower to 120, but your dishwasher doesn't include a heating element and you'd like to heat that water to 140, or if you want your kitchen faucet to supply hotter water than the bathroom faucet or shower. Also, point-of-use units are useful for providing instant heat.


What to do if drywall anchor isn't flush with the wall

When ever you are doing Window Treatments such as Curtain rods - the first thing to do is use a SMALL diameter 1/8 inch drill bit and drill a pilot hole for your mounting holes - this way you can know if you hit a stud or only have empty space - typically you can hit a stud because the window framing.

You will note the pine wood on the drill bit also the force required to drill will tell you if you have only dry wall or a stud.

If you hit a stud SKIP the Anchors the wood stud will secure the screws just fine.

If you do not hit a stud - use a slightly larger bit to see if you are close to a stud - ie catch the edge of it (your anchor might be too wide and you will need to re-position your hole).

Now onto the fact that your screws are short - a hardware store has longer screws , splurge the 50 cents for a pack of longer screws.

Dry wall patch is sold in stores but for this you can easily get away with pushing in some joint compound (comes in a quick tube as well) - letting it set and then drilling your hole into the stud - use a longer screw 1-1/2 inches should be fine.


Should I frame a closet prior to putting in hardwood flooring?

Walls first, then floor.  Otherwise, if you ever need to remove the floor, you'll be forced to leave some of it in place to hold up your walls (or take the closet out as well).


Portable AC not getting ride of condensate

In cool or dehumidifier mode if you don’t have a pump you will have to dump the condensate based on your humidity, it is a basic function of cooling that there will be moisture to get rid of.
Don’t believe me put a glass full of ice water on a table with enough ice to last 15 minutes, now look at the ring of water at the base of the glass. If you want the system to cool there WILL be water to get rid of times a hundred or even 10 thousand depending on the size or amount of cooling and humidity. In a high humidity zone the amount of condensate or water you need to get rid of can be the same. It is normal and expected with cooling or dehumidification.


Using dirt to grade away from foundation. Good idea or not?

I live in a very wet climate and that is exactly what we do. Often, the level of the dirt on the outside of the foundation is higher than the level of the dirt on the inside. This is acceptable as long as the soil slopes away from the house on all sides. (Yes, the outer surface of the crawl space wall will be wet/damp, but it would be wet in a rain storm too and this moisture will evaporate...especially in LA.) When we have problems is when one side slopes down to the house and then the "surface" water wants to "stand" (puddle) against the foundation wall and eventually seep into the crawl space.

I think your Inspector is correct. (If you have a basement, then things are different, but you said crawl space.)


What should I use to hang a coat hook on a brick wall?

You'll need a masonry bit and hammer drill to get a hole in brick.

However it may be easier to screw the hooks to a piece of wood and mount the wood to the wall. With a nice routed edge on the wood that can look really nice.

To mount the wood you can use normal masonry anchors.


Do I need to sand my entire deck before staining?

I wouldn't belt sand any outdoor deck, especially with a commercial belt sander that your talking about.  More damage will ensue.  Take the $60.00 you'll spend on the rental and buy a Makita Palm Sander.  It takes a 1/4 sheet of sandpaper to load onto the pad to sand.  Buy some 80 grit sheets and some 120 grit sheets.  Grab a beer and get down on your knees and feel for rough spots, sand lightly with the 80 grit on all the rough spots on the deck.  The electric sander will make light work of sanding the deck without going to far.  Then swap out for the 120 grit and hit all the spots again and your ready to stain/seal once you do your clean-up.. that size deck may take you 2 -3 hours total, good luck.


Is it a problem to have gaps and holes in the subfloor of a hardwood floor?

Vermin would be my only concern. Spray foam is not the best sealer for the critters but staple some steel wool over the opening and put the spray foam on that.
The foam encapsulates the steel wool using less foam and critters don’t like chewing on the steel wool (they will tunnel through spray foam very quickly).
Those gaps look larger than I like but as long as your trim covers the edges there is nothing to worry about, possibly a rodent highway under the trim if not filled but no structural issues.


LED MR16 replacement bulbs: How to evaluate brightness and color temp?

You're looking for subjective human-opinion reviews.  However, the questions you are asking about are measurable scientific facts that are labeled on almost every bulb, and certainly any bulb legal to sell in the United States.

Lumens

The useful light output of a bulb is in lumens.  This is a measurement of the light that you can see, and the wedge that it is lighting up.

You must factor for the wedge angle of the bulb.  If you have a 120 degree angle bulb that is the brightness you like, and you want to switch to a 60 degree angle bulb, that will illuminate 1/4 the area, and will land all its lumens in that 1/4 area, So that area will have 4x the lumens hitting it.  That will make it brighter, not 4x brighter since light is a decibel curve.

Color Temperature

Color Temperature is the color of the light, which you call "coldness".  Normal halogens are 3000K.  Office fluorescents are 4100K. The early LEDs that were popular prior to 2015, especially the cheapies, are typically 5000-6000K because those are the cheapest lumens per dollar. LEDs have gotten quite good and you should have no trouble finding 3000K LEDs at sane cost, for most applications.

Read a more detailed examination with illustrations here.


Can I cut carpet tiles with a table saw?

As already noted in a comment, this is likely to end in quite a mess. And could be a bit dangerous too.
A quick search confirms my hunch about the right way: score the back and cut with a utility knife. A new knife and a pack of blades cost very little.
Reminds me of a cute anecdote in a DIY magazine I saw once about someone ending up with dust everywhere from cutting drywall with a circular saw. Who then found out that everyone else just scores and cuts with a utility knife. Carpet tile may be a little tougher, but it is not the type of hard material that a saw cuts well (and that a knife doesn't cut at all).
In response to the latest question edit:

I'm not seeking advise how to optimize cutting carpet with a knife. The post is to collect input on the specific question.

The simple answer is: Yes you could, but please don't!


Options for tile under the sliding door casing

Don't do it with MDF. MDF is way too soft material, and once water gets to it, it will be ruined very quickly.  This is a place that sees lots of dirt and foot traffic. You need a hard and strong material, and durable and washable finish here.

Buy two pieces of hardwood (maple, oak, etc.).
Cut them to size: top piece should have a slight overhang, and front piece should be 1/8" (3mm) less than the height needed.
"Ease" the front edge of the top piece (make it more round): a hand plane would do, or just a piece of sandpaper.
Nail them to 2x4, the front piece should have a small gap at the bottom (it will be covered by tiles, but will allow the wood to move seasonally).
Fill the nail holes, sand and finish them to match your door frame: oil-based glossy paint will be most durable solution.


How do I remove this shower sliding door?

Thanks for the suggestions. Finally, I discovered that there's some hooks on the bottom of the door that you need to release to be able to lift and remove the door.


Easiest way to attach this HDX inline filter to replace my American Plumber WICA inline filter

I was able to take off the plastic connectors on each end of copper. After that I realized since ther were push to connect then I could use push to connect on copper as well as flex line. At that point I cleaned the copper ends with a green 3m scouring pad, and installed the filter with no soldering and none of the brass parts.


How can I repair a towel bar with one end ripped out of the wall?

I agree that the best solution here is tell your landlord, provided you have a reasonable one. What does your lease say about routine maintenance? Chances are if you weren't doing chinups on it, you shouldn't be charged.

However, if you've had a previous experience with this landlord in which they've proved to be unreasonable, you could attempt to fix it yourself.

To do this, find a short length of steel rod with an outer diameter the same as the inside diameter of the sheared pin. Test fit to make sure it all fits together. Mix up some JB Weld, coat the steel rod, and then slide it into the sleeve on the wall, then press the other side on over it. Try to avoid getting any of the epoxy compound on the end of the rod near the wall, as doing so may end up bonding it to the wall rather than just the bracket.


Is it okay to put a heat pump water heater in a crawl space?

You may be able to:

Height - The website says the heat pump water heater (HPWH) is 60.5 inches tall. The hot and cold pipes enter at the top of the unit, but it sounds like 7 ft is enough vertical space.
Volume - I'm not sure what the overall volume of your crawlspace is, but the GeoSpring installation Guide says:

    With the installation of a louvered door, it can be installed in rooms smaller than 10' x 10' x 7' (700 cu.ft.). Louvers should be 240 square inches (0.15 m^2) or greater.

So, if your crawlspace is vented to the outside, or as HerrBag states, is conditioned, with air exchange to/from the house, it will be fine, but may operate at lower efficiency:

Temperature - Like you say, the water heater is a heat pump or "reverse AC", meaning it heats water by pumping heat from the air. In other words, it cools down the space it is in. If your crawlspace temperature gets below 45F because of the heat pump or just because it is cold outside, the unit will operate at a much lower efficiency. This study states that HPWHs take 10-15% efficiency penalty when installed in confined spaces.
Humidity - High humidity is not a problem. In fact, it will operate more efficiently at higher humidity. Freezing temperatures are an issue for efficiency, as stated above, as well as the obvious danger to your pipes. As HerrBag stated, a floor drain or pump/sump will be necessary.

What climate are you in? If you are in a hot climate, it is advantageous to put the heat pump water heater in your living space to take advantage of the free cooling.


Replacing a piece of nailed tongue and grooved engineered hardwood located in the middle of a large room

You are heading the right way with your first thought, although I rip out the middle 3/4" and chisel out the  ends where the saw will not get to. Pulling out the center will allow the saw to stay away from the nails or staples holding the piece down and will let the groove side slip out. Use the chisel at an angle to get the remaining stapled in part by splitting the flooring at the same angle the fasteners go in.

Yes do remove the bottom half of the groove side and glue it in place. Apply wood glue to the tongue and set construction adhesive at the tongue of the board in place so when the new piece goes in the part where the cut off groove is will grab the glue and keep it there.

You new piece should go right on in there. The original one did. and as long as the new one has acclimated to the new area it will go in, that should fit too.


Go get yourself an 8' untreated 4x4 (~$10.00).

Determine how much higher you'd like the bed to be, then cut the 4x4 in appropriate lengths adding an inch to each length.
For example:
If you want the bed to be 4" higher, cut the 4x4 in 5" lengths.

using a spade or Forstner bit of appropriate size (just slightly larger than the bed frames feet, so the feet will fit into the hole), bore a hole to the depth of one inch.

place the frame on the 4x4 pieces, such that the feet of the frame sit in the holes you bored.

NOTES:
Make sure you use untreated wood.  Pressure treated wood may damage, and/or stain your bed frame and flooring.
I'm assuming you have a drill press and the appropriate bits, so the cost of the project only includes the lumber.
Making the leg extensions too high could cause the bed to be unstable, leading to property damage, injury, and or death.


First thing to do is check out the door.  Unplug the motor and pull the disconnect cord to separate the door from the drive mech.  Now manually try opening and closing the door.  If it doesn't move smoothly (or worse, you just now notice a broken spring or cable), then fix the mechanicals.
Only after that should you start suspecting a bad breaker, and as EdBeal commented, never increase the rating.


How to repair rotten plywood board under vinyl bay/bow window?

Due to its age, I'd leave it & paint it a few times after a stain blocking primer. To correct it, just caulk & nail or finish screw a shoe molding onto the white outside edge to stop & eliminate the capillary action. A pre-drilled PVC molding would be perfect for this.


Looks like they used rivets. The only way to remove them, is to  destroy them (drill them out).


What is the proper setup to cut straight openings with a router?

If you are willing to invest into expand your routers capacity, I suggest getting a set of router guide bushings. Sometimes they are specific to the make of the router There are videos on YouTube on how to use them. The bushings will allow you to make a template of the cutout you need whether it be  out of one large scrap piece or several small pieces fasteng to make a 4 sided guide. Its size is determined by the off set of the guide bushing to the router bit. If the OD of the guide is 3/4" and the bit is 1/4", the template is made larger than the top you wish to drop in by 1/4". You can start out with a guide to do the smaller hole first, (larger difference in the offset) for example the 3/4" guide and the 1/4" bit, and make the cut all the way through. Swap it out to a smaller guide (1/2" guide) and make the stepped cut to rest the table in its' place.

Planning all this out is done with the finish in mind. Make a test cut using the smallest offset on a scrap piece of flat stock using another 4 pieces of smaller scrap to use as the guides. These pieces should be at least half the width of the router base. When assembled together it will more or less be a smaller example of the larger version you wish to do. This will let you get the feel of the router doing its' job and let you see in real time the offset the guide provides, enabling you to determine the placement of the templates for the cuts that matter.

Remember the test cuts are for the finish size to allow your top to drop in, the stepped cut. Before you start cutting on the actual piece after you determine the proper placement of the template, swap out the bushing to the larger offset, make the cut all the way through, then swap the guide back out to the smaller offset to make the final cut that allows the inset top to set flush.


How high should the siding be above ground level?

Four to six inches is what my home inspector told me. Besides the risk of water intrusion, any area where dirt extends above the sill plate is a huge invitation to wood destroying insects like termites or carpenter ants.


Notice that deeper snow below and to the left of the bare area? It's deeper than it is anywhere else in the picture: why?
It's very unlikely that that area was much better insulated than the rest of the roof, and so has melted much less. Instead, it's almost certainly a wind-carved snow drift, especially when you notice that the deepest spot forms a ridge sloping away from the edge of the roof.
With that in mind, it's pretty clear that your bare spot is just an area where the wind during your latest snow storm either didn't deposit snow or actively removed it. Once the storm was done, the snow has been melting everywhere; this spot was the thinnest, and so has become bare before the rest of your roof.
Summary: nothing to worry about.


Is it within code to run ent conduit into a junction box on the exterior of the home?

The hole should be sealed at the exit point prior to the box being installed and it would be code compliant.


How do I adjust a door so it doesn't swing on its own?

Sound as if the door only moderately moves, I typically remove either the top or bottom pin, place it on a flat hard surface, like concrete, whack it with a hammer once or twice, reinsert and door no longer moves.

Easier than rehanging a door, for sure.


Is my expansion tank leaking  in my oil water heater system?

Expansion tanks can fail over time. There should be a valve stem like you have on a car tire to add air to the tank. Shutoff the water supply, open a faucet to release any pressure from the water on the tank, and pump up the tank to about 60psi (even better is to fill to your average water pressure at your home, but 60psi is typical). If the tank doesn't hold the pressure with an open faucet, then the internal bladder has ruptured and the expansion tank needs to be replaced. They are usually threaded, so you can unscrew the old tank, apply some plumbers dope or Teflon tape to the threads, and screw on a new tank (pressurize it first).


Why would my TV image turn black when electrical appliances turn on?

I agree with DMoore that the flickering is almost certainly caused by a voltage dip when a large appliance turns on. A fridge can easily pull 1000+ watts momentarily as the compressor starts.

If you want to verify the voltage dip you can do so with a multimeter with a "MIN" function. Insert the multimeter probes into the outlet that's giving you trouble, set the multimeter to "voltage (AC)", and enable the "MIN" mode, which will remember the lowest voltage it sees. Then wait for the fridge to turn on. Typical US household voltage should be in the 110 - 120 V range. A voltage dip much below 110V could definitely cause flickering.

If the devices are on the same circuit, the easiest thing to try would be putting them on different circuits. You could also call the electric company to see if they have any thoughts.

If you don't want to do any electrical changes, you could also get a voltage stabilizer to plug your TV / home entertainment system into. It's basically a fancy surge protector that will even out momentary irregularities in the household voltage current. Many battery-backup power supplies ("UPS") also include voltage regulation.

Edit based on question updates:

The same circuit means that the outlets run back to the same circuit breaker in your breaker panel. The easiest way to figure out if they're on the same circuit is to flip off the switch to the refrigerator and see if the TV also goes dead. If your circuits are not labeled, this may take some trial and error.

As for a surge protector: they won't help with under-voltage at all. Surge protectors cut the power when the voltage gets far too high (typically 300 V or more), but don't do anything when the voltage is too low.


What size metric wire is required for 240 VAC 30 Amps located in house with run of 90M or <100 feet to a garage

In the US, a 30 ampere circuit would use 10 AWG conductors.  10 AWG is 5.261 mm². However, if you're going 90 meters (295 feet), you might have to compensate for voltage drop. You might go up to 8 AWG (8.367 mm²), or possibly even 6 AWG (13.3 mm²).

These figures are based on codes in the US, so you'll have to check local codes before proceeding.

EngineeringToolbox.com has a good conversation chart to go from AWG to mm².


Need help programming chamberlain garage door opener replacement KLIK3U-BK

I had same issue, trying to program to a Liftmaster. Here's what worked for me:

Liftmaster: Press learn button.
Klik3U: Press programming button unitl LED solid BLue.
Press-release desired button on klik3u until Lifmaster lights blink.
Press Klik3U programming button to turn off programming mode.
Done.

I had to press the target button 8 times...hope that helps.


What should I use to fill cracks in my wood door?

Word of advice, do not sand the door anymore than what has occured already. You can see how there are a few lighter areas where some dings are that the "patina" has been removed by something. Sanding will ruin the patina, making the door look blotchy as well.

On old furniture and doors where the cracks are not structural, burn in sticks are what I use. They are made of lacquer, and if you finish your door in a water based or poly finish, this will fill the cracks nicely. Burn in sticks can be bought on Ebay, its where I got mine, they come in a wide variety of colors, and the color you see is the color you get, they don't change color once applied.

Once the door is sealed, NOT finish coated you get yourself handy a heat gun. Use that to melt the stick of the color you want where it starts to flow down the stick, careful. Then move it onto the door with out dripping and push it into the crack. On small cracks, I use a putty knife heated and set the stick on it to melt it a little and use the knife to apply it. When the crack or hole is sufficiently filled, I take the heated putty knike and flatten it out, removing the excess. This will leave a small skim over the surface, which will then clean up with a little lacquer thinner on a clean rag. Do not get the rag to wet, it may try to dissolve the sealer too.

Apply the finish coats over the repairs as you normally would.

Use this only in cracks, not joints, wood needs to move and if it is placed in a joint you will hinder the movement, doing more harm than good.


Water coming through detached garage concrete floor

You need to remove the water before it gets to the garage floor level. Since you indicate that water in the backyard may be so high that you suspect water coming thorugh the sill plate (i.e. above slab floor level) nothing you do that does not address THAT will really work.

So, standard approach (surround the garage with a drain, including a trench drain on the front to prevent rain from coming off the driveway into it, if it "slopes away from the driveway") will probably not be sufficient, if the water in the backyard is rising higher than the floor level. Drains only work if they have somewhere to take the water.

As such, you may need to address drainage in the back yard, unless you want to get into something as expensive and extensive as raising the garage structure and pouring a new slab floor, at a higher level, with a different slope to it.


In slip joints, what's the difference between rubber and nylon washers?

In my experience the flat rubber washer is used only where the tailpiece attaches to the strainer. The tapered nylon washers are used when connecting slip together sections of pipe.


Got a used Electric oven - not sure what wire and breaker to use

You'll need:

NEMA 14-50 receptacle.
40 ampere double pole breaker
Four 8 AWG copper conductors, or four 6 AWG aluminum conductors (Hot, Hot, Neutral, Ground).

It's common for builders to use a 50 ampere breaker and larger conductors,  to make sure the circuit can handle any range the owner's might use. But if you're installing the circuit to support a particular device, you may be able to use a smaller circuit.

It's common to use aluminum conductors for range circuits, because it's a bit cheaper when you start using larger conductors. Type SE (service entrance) cables are common for range circuits, as it's often easier to pull a cable than individual conductors.

In layman's terms. Go to the electrical supply shop, or hardware store. Tell them what you're doing, and ask for:

A four prong range plug.
A four wire range cord.
8/3 with ground NM (nonmetallic) cable (copper).
A double pole 40 amp breaker.


Larry from the online info on this meter

  Klein Tools CL600 is an automatically ranging true root mean square
  (TRMS) digital clamp-meter that measures AC current via the clamp, and
  measures AC/DC voltage, resistance, continuity, and tests diodes via
  test-leads.

Do you see that the clamp is for AC current measurement. The clamp cannot give a voltage reading. Voltage reading is by the probes.


You can cut the existing elbow off, install a "slip joint trap adapter" on the outlet with ABS cement.
ABS vs PVC
This will allow you good sliding length adjustment to a normal p trap assembly.


Type of floor to use for a three season porch

Vinyl plank flooring is very durable, attractive, and moves less than wood-based products. It comes in many styles, some of which very convincingly emulate natural wood through color and texture.

Just this past weekend I helped my brother install some in his home. It had built-in flexible underlayment, was very easy to cut (simple crosscuts are score-and-snap), and looked absolutely beautiful. Seams were dead tight and the product claims complete water resistance. Judging by the fit and feel of the material, I can't say I don't believe them.

Quality varies with brand, of course. Do your research and read objective reviews.


Garage door opener works with remote but not switch

OK, so I finally removed the "dry contact relay" wires, tested them for continuity, and reattached them in reverse. It all worked. My suspicion is that the "dry contact relays" have a "common common", meaning all the relays rely on a joint "common" (even though they all have a separate common terminal....) So, when I connected the relay reverse of how I connected the other garage door opener, I inadvertently ended up "shorting" the second garage door opener. Still not sure why it worked that way, but all's well that ends well, eh?


Is there any easy way to open/close bay window blinds at the same time?

We have the exact same situation (bay window with 5 panes and 5 independent blinds) and I have toyed with the idea of mechanically ganging them all together.

The point where the twisting rod enters turns a cam which is coupled to a pulley system to tilt the slats.   I posit that an appropriate line wrapped around each "twister" could do all of them at once.

I have not attempted it though—not even had a look inside.  The set of blinds cost over $800 and my wife is quite reluctant for me to perform experiments which could affect the appearance or function.  And she doesn't mind one bit if it takes me 30+ extra seconds per day twisting each individually.


Main Line into House 1" OD Copper, what fitting

In the US, copper "refrigeration" tubing is measured by the O.D. whereas copper pipe sizes are nominal (in other words sized by nomenclature where nothing actually measures to the named size). There is no 7/8" pipe, but there is 1" OD tubing.
It would be very odd to have a copper tubing main line, but odder things have happened. I suspect that, if indeed you are working with tubing, it is a repair that someone cobbled together at that section (rather than the entire main being tubing) because they had some 1" OD tubing on-hand.
It is unclear exactly what your question is, but somebody already converted your tube to FIP (at least on one side) so you should use that; on the other side get a 1" compression fitting to convert to pipe thread as well.


No problem doing this. Make sure that you attach it in an appropriate manner. The preferred approach is to use a special deck tie (Simpson makes them) that uses a thick rod to connect a deck joist to a house joist. If that's not practical, using lag bolts in an alternating pattern. Most permitting authorities have specific guidance on what they want to see here.


If it's your only socket it should be a master and replaceable with an Openreach Linebox.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbfHMsP6IsE
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NTE5C/254283763063
Note - if you do want Openreach to replace it for you, you'll have to book that through your phone provider (whether that's BT, Talktalk, Sky, Plusnet etc) as Openreach don't deal with consumers.
If it's an extension socket, just replace it with a LJU 2/3A.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BT-Socket-LJU2-3A-/221531118698
For that you will need an IDC insertion tool (included by that seller)
Details on UK telephone wiring (and how to tell the difference between master and extension sockets)
http://www.rob-r.co.uk/other/UKphonecatwiring.htm


Can I build a concrete block wall over floor tile?

The tile floor shouldn't be a structural weakness, but if it's glazed you won't get a good mortar bond. I'd install anchor bolts every 32" or so, aligned with block cores, and fill those cores with mortar.

It might be easier to simply cut the tile inside the wall line and remove it, though.

Also be aware that your slab may not be designed to carry a heavy wall. If it doesn't have proper footings underneath it may crack and settle.


Do sandstone patio pavers/grout need to be sealed?

While it wouldn't necessarily hurt I see absolutely no need to do this.  I wouldn't bother.

Some websites suggest it will change the appearance of the slabs?  Sealant will change the appearance, this is neither inherently good or bad.  It will give it a more...wet look most likely, similar to waxing a floor or sealing wood.
Some site also say you need to reseal after a few years - if you don't reseal will you just be back to if you hadn't sealed it, or is it a case of once you've done it once you have to keep going?  Seal, like deck stain, will have to be redone every 2-3 years (give or take, depends on your climate and how much sun/moisture the sealer gets)
We were told not to use a power wash on the stones, but the sealant guy says you can do exactly that once sealed - so it is tough stuff sealant then?  As long as you do not use too much pressure you can power wash the stones, too much pressure could gouge the stones, even with sealer you would want to be careful of this, too much pressure would eat right through the sealer and stone.


Would bullet proof glass help deter burglars? How does it compare to normal glass?

There is a product called Window Security Film which is a thin (a couple mm) film that adheres to the window and makes it exceptionally difficult for someone to break.  Many lock smiths/security companies can install it.   Here's a video of it in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYdVK3BqPfk

One of the biggest "problems" with it however is that because it's invisible, people will still try to break the glass.  For this reason, often it is installed along with window bars since this provides a visual deterent, but they are pretty ugly for residential installs.


Drain it, then turn on the pump.

Old tanks had no bladder, so the air and water are not separated. As a result, there's no pre-pressurization, and the size of tank needed for the same effect is considerably larger. A properly set up and maintained system also has a (prone to fail) widget that adds air to the water coming from the well, since the air in the tank will dissolve into the water in the tank over time and make the system "waterlogged" causing short-cyling of the pump - requiring draining the tank again. If the widget is working right that's less prone to happen, since more air is added each time water is pumped.

Lived through it growing up, purchased a bladder type tank without batting an eyelash when the time came to set up my own well. But if you are not yet at the stage of fixing/upgrading the system, simply draining the tank before you start pumping water is what you do.


Name of tool used to check/make squareness


It's tough to say all your future needs will be met, but:

1/2". So, you don't run into problems with larger straight bits fitting.
Keyed. If you've had problems with slippage or spinning on smooth shanks it's the only answer. If you had spinning on hex bits, then you did something wrong. However, keyed will also fix pull-out of both smooth & hex shanks.
No, but maybe later. For what you mentioned the cheapest drills will handle it all. But, if you get into mixing 5-gallon buckets of Joint Compound or Concrete Resurfacer then you'll kill a smaller motor. However, the bigger the motor the considerably heavier the tool & you won't enjoy that at all for what you're currently doing.
Hammer Action. Not needed if you're only doing infrequent small holes & have a set of masonry bits...for most situations.
Adjustable clutch. Not needed as long as the drill is variable speed & all of them should be that you'll be considering.
Impact Action. As you say you don't want it. But, it's really-really nice. Are you sure? Have you actually tried it for 3-inch & more screws? Yummy-yummy you'll want one.

Actually, except for the 1/2" chuck & I think also for Keyed, but the Corded might be Keyed. I'd recommend the Black & Decker Matrix, it comes in Corded & Cordless. The interchangeable head will make your life so much better. I got a cordless one & all of the attachments I've got actually work better than I expected & quite well overall.


Why are USA/Canada using individual GFCI circuit breakers?

Different goals
European RCD (differential) protection, at least in countries using Terra-Neutral (TN) earthing as North America does, is focused primarily on protection from fire, with a secondary helping of shock protection under reasonable conditions.  The theory behind this is based on catching dielectric breakdown and associated leakage before it becomes a full-fledged carbonized (tracked) fault that gets hot enough to cause surrounding materials to smoulder, and it's generally accepted as a sound one.
However, in order to provide cost-effective protection for an entire distribution board, a small number of RCDs are used as feeder devices for a larger number of breakers.  This is practical because of the small number of circuits required by a typical flat or even a house under IEC-based systems and due to the lower amperages required as a result of all appliances being 230V at a minimum.  However, the combination of higher native leakage due to the higher operating voltage and that multi-circuit span forces the use of a higher IΔn setting, typically 30 to 100mA in modern practice, than would be ideal for shock protection.
The North American GFCI approach, however, is focused primarily on shock protection, and in particular, protection from secondary effects of shock on skeletal muscles in addition to keeping people from being killed by the shock disrupting heart rhythms (ventricular fibrillation).  These secondary effects include both involuntary skeletal contractions ("can't let go") and the more insidiously lethal effect known as electric shock drowning, or ESD for short.  This is where a mostly-submerged individual (nominally a swimmer) loses muscle functionality due to low-level (tens of mA) AC currents flowing in freshwater and drowns as a result, and is reflected in the original NEC GFCI requirement being not to protect bathrooms, kitchens, or any other place we think of as requiring protection, but swimming pool equipment such as lighting.  (Nowadays, low-voltage transformers are used for this instead.)
The upshot is that North American GFCIs are sensitive enough to provide excellent protection from shock; however, to achieve that 5mA sensitivity, they require a bit more circuit complexity than a RCD, which leaves them more vulnerable to failures over time and also means they can't be reverse-fed without causing permanent damage.  They also are more sensitive to nuisance tripping due to cable leakage than a 30mA RCD, which means that placing them in the panel increases the nuisance tripping risk vs. the receptacle (socket-outlet) type of GFCI most commonly seen in North America.
Furthermore, the reason we don't put them everywhere is because some appliances (still) aren't compatible with GFCI protection, or would be counterproductive to protect with a GFCI.  For instance, the NEC itself prohibits GFCI protection on circuits serving fire alarm control panels, as you don't want a ground fault somewhere to disable the primary AC supply to the alarm panel for an extended period of time, run the batteries dry, and thus cause the fire alarm to not work when a fire starts.  Likewise, refrigerators are generally not GFCI protected due to issues with hermetic compressor insulation breakdown causing nuisance tripping combined with the risk of food spoilage involved.
"Why didn't the US adopt the IEC approach?"
If you are wondering why North America didn't keep the sensitive GFCI protection against shock, yet adopt higher-level RCD protection for catching house fires, the reason has to do with the difference in voltages between the two systems.  In a 120/240V system, lights and most small appliances run on 120V while only heavy appliances run on 240V.  This has the upside of limiting the voltage to ground while making two utilization voltages available, but has two downsides.  First off, the lower voltages are less stressful on wire insulation, but the higher currents used increase the risk of a glowing fault at a bad connection causing a fire, which is much harder to catch than insulation breakdown leading to a cable fault.
Second, and more importantly, the higher currents involved mean that North American main breakers (incomers) need to be much larger and feed more branch circuits to feed an equivalent level of electrical utilization.  (The US NEC requires a minimum of 60A service for most things, and 100A for single-family houses, whereas a 100A service would be considered quite large by European standards as I understand them.)  This increases the cost of breakers considerably, and in particular, since North Americans use circuit breaker mains (incomers) instead of switch-disconnectors, having to incorporate RCD protection into them would drive costs up significantly and create space issues within already cramped panels as well.  (The US already had "Rule of Six" split bus panels when services started exceeding the 60-100A range, and the current generations of main circuit breakers used are quite cost and space-optimized compared to their molded-case equivalents.)
There are places where North America did learn a thing or two from international experience, though.  One of these was the protection of electrical trace heating cables used for freeze prevention in various places; due to the high potential for damage to a heat cable placed outdoors somewhere, the NEC requires what is known as ground fault protection of equipment, or GFPE for short, which is essentially a 30mA or sometimes 100mA IΔn RCBO (as they only come in breaker form) implemented using the same parts as a breaker-type (RCBO form factor) GFCI.  The NEC also calls for ground fault protection on high-power three phase services (1200A and up) due to the high degree of fire risk posed by faults on such systems.
Enter the AFCI, stage right
Continued concern about electrical fires in North America led the CPSC, UL, and electrical distribution manufacturers to examine the IEC approach, with sensitive instantaneous breaker trips and RCD protection.  However, there were issues with this; most importantly, 120V motors generate too much inrush current for IEC B and C curve breakers, with their sensitive magnetic trips, to handle.  As a result, North American MCBs use a less sensitive magnetic trip, closer to the IEC D curve, which renders them relatively insensitive to arcing short circuits (vs. the much less common bolted fault).
Nonetheless, the North American distribution equipment manufacturers pressed forward with creating a device that could try to catch arcing short circuits, insulation tracking breakdown, and other such pesky firestarting phenomena.  A couple different approaches were tried: Eaton/Cutler-Hammer came up with a "branch/feeder" AFCI design that combined GFPE with analog detection logic, while other manufacturers looked to a microprocessor based signature recognition approach.  Fractures during the standard-setting process led to compromises, though, and a GFPE requirement was not incorporated into the final AFCI standards; instead, a different requirement for "series arc detection" made it in, leading to the creation of combination and outlet branch circuit AFCIs.
Furthermore, early AFCIs were fraught with installation issues; their GFPE protection made them sensitive to improper neutral connections and required the use of multipole AFCIs when multiwire branch circuits were encountered, while signature detection proved to be a finicky technology to refine due to the sheer variety of sources and signatures out there, as well as the need to be robust against "normal" arcs caused by switching and motor commutation and a wide variety of RFI sources.  The former issue led some manufacturers, most notably GE and Siemens, to drop the GFPE function from their AFCIs altogether, while the latter has been a constant (albeit slowly improving) thorn in the side of AFCI technology, leading to quite a few callbacks for electricians even as the NEC AFCI mandates expanded quite considerably.
However, the NEC has also incorporated the requirement for 30mA ground fault protection for marinas due to issues with leaky boat electrical systems causing electric shock drowning hazards in lakes and rivers.  Will this lead to a meeting of the two sides of the debate? Will AFCI technology come of age after an extremely long and painful childhood? Will arc-fault detection fare better in the rest of the world than it does in North America? Only time will tell...


Line voltage thermostat to shut off attic fan when outside temp is close to inside?

The only easy way (and non dynamic) is to have an external temp switch that turns on the internal main switch. Or the other way around depends how you want it to work.

Outside 35Degrees   Inside 25 Degrees
External >30(OFF) --> Internal >20(ON) --> FAN OFF

Outside 20 Degrees  Inside 25 Degrees
External <30(ON) --> Internal >20(ON) --> FAN ON

My logic might be slighltly flawed but its the only way I can think of. Otherwise you have to buy some more inteligent system (usually expensive) or make your own microcontroller based relay

A Thermostat With Adjustable Hysteresis

http://electroschematics.com/6606/temperature-controlled-relay-circuit/

http://www.enercorp.com/contr/ettr.htm


I'm not sure I understand where the posts and piers are in relation to the 6x8's. However, I can give you some info and maybe you can interpret.

According to Western Woods Use Book by West Coast Lumbermen’s Association, 1973 edition, a 6x8 beam can support about 8,000 lbs., depending on species of wood, grade, etc. on an 8' span.


Who is the right professional to call for drainage issues?

As others have suggested, a good excavator or even a landscape contractor might be able to find relatively simple ways to alter the landscape of your yard so that water will naturally flow away from the home.

Civil engineer would be your best bet but they are also expensive enough that I see them as the last ditch effort if other measures have been failing.  Typically experienced landscape contractors or excavators can figure out where the water is flowing during a rainstorm and divert it away from the house with a bit of digging.

French Drains

While water may not be seeping into your foundation right now, having all of that water pool next to the house is inviting problems.  Reagrdless of landscaping, it is a good idea to install french drains around the perimeter of your house if you know that rain water is inevitably flowing towards your home.

The following image is a typical installation.  The drain itself is typically a trench running a couple of feet typically from the house and going down below the frost line.  You want the drain pipe to be deep enough that it will be below the frost line so that water flowing inside the pipe will not freeze and crack it.  The frost line differs by region, obviously colder climates have a deeper frost line.

The holes allow water to flow down or up into the pipe, while the pipe running at a slight downward slope will take the water and flow it away from the house in another direction.  It typically sits on a thin bed of gravel and the trench is filled with gravel rather than soil as water will more easily flow down through to the drain pipe if the trench is filled with gravel rather than soil.  Soil will also potentially clog the drain making it ineffective.  For aesthetic reasons, sod can be placed over top or you can do something clever like make a rock garden.

If you are a masochist and thoroughly enjoy pain, then you can grab a shovel and dig the trench, but for those of us who are lazy and like excuses to play with complicated equipment, you can rent a backhoe for a day and turn a week long digging job into a 2 hour weekend job.  When digging however, be extremely careful about the location of underground utilities:

Water lines
Gas lines
Sewer lines
Electrical conduit
Cable and telephone lines.

Make sure to identify where these come into the house and approximate their location and depth in relation to where you intend to dig your trench.  If any of them are close then it is probably best to call a professional just to be safe.

Gutters and Downspouts

Another possiblity could simply be that your gutter downspouts are draining too close to the house, or are draining into storm drains that have become clogged.

The following is an example of a downspout draining too close to the foundation.

Many times this can be fixed rather easily, by extending the downspout horizontally away from the house, or channelling it far enough away that it has somewhere to flow other than down your foundation walls.  Check out your local hardware store because there is a number of ways to effectively and cheaply handle this.

Also it is a good idea to check your gutters regularly for clogs.  A clog can prevent water from flowing from your gutters to your downspouts, causing it to pour over the edge or sometimes down the side of the house.  This is also something to check for.

Downspouts can also sometimes flow into an underground drain, which can sometimes be the source of the problem.  This drain typically will be a storm drain that flows away from the house or to a public storm drain.  These can sometimes become clogged causing water to not flow properly away from the house.  Most landscape contractors can easily help unclog such drains if you suspect that this might be the case.

This should give you some ideas of things to look into or try before contacting a civil engineer, as the fix might be more manageable and less complicated than you think.  And as far as a sinkhole swallowing your house, I have only ever heard of that happening because of a house sitting on top of a collapsed coal mine.  If you live in a heavily mined area then your municipality probably has maps that will show whether your house sits overtop of an old mine.  I wouldn't personally worry about this.  The cracks in your foundation might be from the ground settling or moving slightly from excessive soil saturation.


Sleeve anchors not going all the way in?

How did you check the depth of the hole? You should be able to get out the ones you pounded by putting a nut on them and levering them out. You can also get fancy and make a pipe sleeve, some washers and the nut and screw it out. From the photo it looks like an SDS rotary hammer could be used to drill deeper BUT depending on the concrete, maybe you are trying to get it trough a piece of rebar. I guess a telescopic magnetic pick-up tool could tell.


Are new buildings warmer (when first built)?

One must ask how it is that the thermostats know they are installed in a building with materials that are still curing and drying? They don't. 18°C on a thermostat is the same regardless of a building's age.
The students may be noticing that the new building is less drafty than the old. A lack of drafts will make a room seem warmer than a similarly heated, but drafty room.


Cast iron pipe is too low to a use gasketed toilet flange replacement

It sounds like you can get at the pipe from below. I would highly suggest cutting some of the cast iron away and using a rubber gasket coupling (i.e. a Fernco) to transition to PVC. Then you can put a regular PVC pipe flange up there and avoid the problem of depth entirely.


How should I flatten (not level) a concrete subfloor?

Cut slots in the concrete close together with an angle grinder and diamond blade, knock off the little ridges you have just created, and then either flatten with a cup grinder or level up with compound.


"Brown" or undercoat plaster - i.e. not finish plaster (what shows on the outside.)


removing and capping a wall plug that works in series with other plugs

Yes, that's probably fine. Assuming the tabs connecting the two screw terminals on each side of your outlet are intact, the outlet is being used both as a receptacle and to join those wires. Simply connect the wires (including grounds) directly using wire nuts and remove the outlet, then install a blank face plate. Make sure the location remains accessible, this is required by code for future service.

If the tabs (particularly the black/hot side) are not intact, then the outlet is likely partially switched. (This is a little more likely because you mentioned a black+white wire.) If you do find that it's a switched wire, then you should simply cap the black/black+white wires individually rather than bonding them, so you don't create a loop in the circuit.


Why is no water coming out of my new kitchen faucet?

Is there an aerator in the faucet outlet? If so, remove it, and try turning on again. These often get clogged from debris you shake lose in the lines during installation.

Some faucets also require you to remove part of the valve after installation to flush the lines, then re-install. Check the instructions for your faucet. If you could post the make and model of your faucet, we could look at the instructions and tell you more as well.


Can coax cables be replaced with a wireless solution?

I only know of two solutions to this problem, and they may or may not work for you depending on a few details

Run Wire

If you have carpet, there is normally a small gap between the wall and the trim and the tack strip where you can just fit a coax cable or ethernet cable.  This is the trick I always used in apartments since modification to the walls was frowned on.  I've even run coax under the carpet across the room.  If you run it under the pad, you can still feel a lump when you step right on it, but it's largely invisible.

If you don't have carpet, a good solution is to get white coax and run it along the baseboard with some tacks or staples.  You can even run it around doorways.  Of course this isn't super-attractive, but it works and is easy to DIY and to un-DIY.

Running wires through the walls, attic, or crawlspace is the best way to handle this, but it sounds like you can't do that.

Send wireless video

There isn't a way to send the entire coax signal wirelessly across the room, but there are devices to send a video signal across the room to the TV.  Reading between the lines, that means that your cable box that actually hooks up to the coax will still need to hook up to the coax and have a home on that side of the room.

The wireless devices will take video from the component or HDMI output of the tuner and send it to the TV.  Some will even have a solution to handle the signal from the remote control so you can still point it at the TV instead of the other side of the room.  That means the cable box can be totally hidden, but it still has to live next to the coax cable.


How do I wire an additional recessed light to an existing switched circuit?

There probably is no neutral at the switch box. A switch with "one set of wires" (I am guessing you mean one cable - pictures or a clear description would help me be accurate) is almost certainly a "switch loop." Under newer codes that should be a 3-wire (red-black-white-ground - ground is not counted in naming the cable, so "3-wire") cable to supply a neutral to the switch box, but under older codes a 2-wire black-white-ground cable was often used.

One wire (should be black) will be the hot to the switch. The other (should be red on the 3-wire, or on 2-wire the white wire which SHOULD have red tape or paint applied to it) will be the switched hot, from the switch, back to the first fixture. The neutral for the circuit will be at the fixture in this case.

(Pardon - North American color codes - other parts of the world do have other conventions, involving blue, brown, etc...)

Likely what you need to do is move the new light's wire to one of the other lights, not the switch.

Edit, Add - what you probably are doing is putting the one new light in series with all the other lights in parallel between it and neutral. If you remove the bulbs in all the other lights, odds are good that the new one will go out. If you remove most of them, you'll probably find that the new fixture gets dimmer, and the remaining lights on the circuit start to glow a bit...all the lights should be in parallel (from hot to neutral) but what you have now is hot, the one light, an intermediate connection from the one light to all the other lights, and through those other lights to neutral.


What should I expect when removing a chimney?

We were able to find someone to do this.  They removed part of the roof on the garage and built a ramp over the ply wood to toss down bricks.  They removed it to below the roof of the chimney and patched the hole in the roof and reinstalled the metal panels.  They also put siding on the house where the chimney was.

No mess in the living room and it was about a fifth of the price of a teardown and rebuild, approx. $2300.  This is in New England, so price might vary.  Also, the foundation for the chimney wasn't done right when built, which is why the rebuild price would have been so high.


Is there a reason to prefer bare wire for Grounding Electrode Conductor?

No, there is no reason. It is your choice.

In larger sizes bare wire is normally cheaper. Why pay for insulation when you don't have to.

The Code does not require bare it allows you to choose.

Good luck!


How to repair rust damage on my kitchen sink (pictures included)

It's an enamel coated steel (verify with a strong magnet).  There are DIY repair kits, but your rust looks pretty serious.  You'd need to start by taking the sink out, using a grinding wheel to get down to bare steel, then building up epoxy/enamel repair.

Yours may be a builder special of low quality: and the rust looks pretty bad.
I'd recommend a new sink.  Recycle the old one as steel scrap.  And caulk the new one well to avoid water pooling under the edges.


How can I secure NM cable in a tight spot?

You can get an NM cable stapler at a supply house or home center, that is if you can fit it into this area.

Also, we many times use our linemans pliers to pound staples. Sure, it's not the intended use, but in a tight spot many times they work perfectly. Hit with the face where the cutters are.


Stress analysis for a wall mounted table/desk

Securely screw your mounting hardware into something structural, and it's unlikely you'll "break the wall" unless you're planning on piling thousands of kilograms on your table.

If your structure is made of wood, make sure you screw into the framing members with long screws. Don't just screw into the drywall or plaster, which are not capable of bearing much of a load. If your structure is masonry-based, then use masonry-rated screws. They won't come out and they certainly won't break the wall.


How do I repair a dresser with the side falling off?

Glue it & screw it. Staples were never a good idea & they eventually fail. You would remove the panels in order to hammer out all of the staples & to apply a bead of glue (wood glue). Then, pop a panel back on & screw (screw length should be twice the panel's thickness) wherever there was a staple. Repeat for the other panel. The screws are your clamps & the piece is actually better than new. Of course, wipe clean any glue that squeezes out.


If the cracked bricks are loose (as in when you wiggle them they move) they should be removed and new brick installed (or clean the old ones of mortar).   If the cracked bricks are sound and secure the gaps should be filled ,as you noted, to keep water from further damaging the sill.  There are many colors of concrete-type caulking, so if desired the gaps can be filled with a red color and the joint with a grey color. Use a urethane caulk for greater longevity.    A two part epoxy would work just as well as a caulk but it would be difficult to color match (if that is important). Epoxies can be purchased at a local hardware store or a contractors warehouse.


How would I reverse yellow stains resulting from sealing a marble table top?

Sanding even with 220 grit requires feathering and also making sure you go to 600 grit or higher to match existing polish. A product I use as a professional called diamond renew works wonders it is acidic and it is similar to glass etching products.

It must be applied and removed in sections exactly as the instructions say.

As warning: it is a lot of physical work and  it must be used across the entire surface after sanding.
 It is a difficult process but renews the surface to a factory or near factory finish. You must not let it dry on the marble or get into cracks  as it will continue to eat in to the stone and create pits.

If after feather sanding the spot another option besides diamond renew you might try to buff the surface with  rouge.
Use a variable speed buffer on low to medium speed with enough rouge to bring out the shine but not so much it leaves residue on the surface. Start light and work up.

However diamond renew is my preference it is just very difficult and you should if possible practice on a piece of marble before you attack the counter top.

Lastly marble is not granite...lemon juice can discolor marble and it scratches easily so sand lightly ....if you are not sure how to feather sand do not attempt it until you understand it. Also please remember products that claim are for both granite and marble should be used with caution. I would recommend using an "ager" after you finish sanding and polishing...not a sealant.


How do I lay "click system" laminate flooring across an opening?

First of all, I disagree with your orientation.  But, it is your choice, and I'll respect that.

You may want to read this: http://diy.blogoverflow.com/2012/09/installing-laminateengineered-wood-floating-floors/

Pay close attention to the pre-measuring, so that you avoid having a 1 inch board running along either wall.

The idea is that you never want to rip a board to less than half it's width.  If you end up with a half - board gap along either wall, then you should really be using a 3/4 board gap along BOTH walls (That is, convert the final 1.5 board widths to two 3/4 board widths at start and finish, or whatever fraction works for your measurement.)

It's going to be particularly tricky in this case, because you have 4 different measurements to deal with (three rooms + opening).  However, it is an important step. It's going to be some tough geometry to strike the right compromises.  You might find it easier to work in Board Widths rather than inches.  Just be careful with the conversions!

Don't be afraid to notch the board so that it slips around the wall if required. Again, see the blog post for measuring tips.

Once you've figured out the measuring, proceed as The Evil Greebo suggests.  However, you're going to want to start against the wall that will leave you the smallest amount of floor to slide around to make it connect up.  This material has to be aligned exactly for it to snap together.  From your drawing (which may not be to scale) I'd start at the right side.

Your wiggle room is the width of the baseboards and quarter round you're going to use to finish the job.  You need a 1/4 inch gap from all the walls, and a typical baseboard + 1/4 round can cover up to 3/4 of an inch. (But do a recon at the Home Depot and actually measure this stuff so you know what errors you can cover up)


Loads for sub panels from 150A split-bus main panel

That is an old "rule of six" panel, which while grandfathered, is illegal under its grandfathering becuse it has 7 main breakers.  Going to five is a good plan.

It is a classic "CH" panel which is a very good industrial grade panel, except that the 3/4" breaker width make non-ordinary breakers very expensive (a trait it shares with Square D QO).  That makes it perfect for what you plan.

On your subpanel which would be near this panel, I would get a panel with a main breaker, with an eye toward (at some point in the future) cutting it over to be the main panel.  In a subpanel, the "main breaker" is nothing more than an on/off switch, it is OK for it to be larger than the feeding breaker.

I would also get a rather large panel, at the very least 42 space and even 60 or 84 if practicable: because panel spaces are dirt cheap and often even come with free breakers, whereas running out of space is painfully expensive.

I would aim for an industrial grade panel of good repute (one available in 3-phase variants, not Homeline, BR, or second tier brands) and avoid the expensive 3/4" breakers (not CH or QO).

Over time, as you find it convenient, i'd migrate all your 1-pole and smaller 2-pole circuits over to the new panel.

For your garage panel anything would do, but I'd go for the same type as your indoor panel, so you can use some of those bonus breakers. Again it's false economy to scrimp on spaces, I'd go 20-30 at least.

Also, since garage spaces need to be on GFCI, consider getting a subpanel which has a "main breaker" which is GFCI, that way all the breakers in that panel would be protected (at the cost of potential nuisance trips, a big deal if you keep a freezer in the garage).

Ed Beal raises some very good concerns about overall capacity.  One problem with these "rule of six" panels is there is literally no main breaker to stop you from drawing more than 150A.  So it pays to be conservative.

It's a difficult situation because you have two big loads that operate sporadically - the EV charger and the range.  And the A/C as a wildcard.

One thing I might suggest, is feed the garage subpanel from the new primary subpanel.  And then move everything but the range over to the new subpanel.  At that point the only things still in the CH panel would be a 60A range breaker and a 100A subpanel breaker.  Even at max, those two could not overload the 150A service (by enough to matter).  This would force your entire house (from A/C to EV charger) to share 100A, but would remove the possibility of an overload.  This would also save you the $85 you'll spend on a second 100A CH breaker.


Should my first power saw be a circular or jig saw?

Jig saws are for delicate work; they cut slow and the blades like to bend and break.

Reciprocating saws are for not delicate work and cut fast, the blades bend if you let the tip of the blade bounce on your work.

Circular saws are for relatively straight cuts, their blades do not break or bend, readily.

Table saws are just better circular saws.

Miter saws are for nice, straight cut-offs.

If I had to pick one to keep, it'd be my real (Milwaukee) Sawzall®. In a $50 price range you can get a crappy jig or reciprocating saw. For chores around the house (random home improvements) get a reciprocating saw. For small wood working projects, you may want a jig. I 'work with my hands' and to me a jig is a specialty tool, seldom necessary and a pain to keep changing blades and they take forever to cut.


Old Home - Trying to Figure out Living Room Switches

You have a dangerous situation.

While it may not be knob and tube (an old standard that often poses serious risk), you have cloth covered wiring that is obviously deteriorating, posing a risk of short circuits and fire. For example, in the upper picture, the switch on the right has exposed wire that is a shock and fire hazard.

We could try to diagnose the switching issues (e.g., there are no three way switches illustrated), but you have a more basic problem.  This is probably the time to call in a professional to discuss replacing some of this very risky stuff.


I doubt there'd be any problems. After all, when the moisture resistant paint was first put on, more than one coat would have been used, therefore it is possible to paint over it. Just make sure you give the wall a good clean (i.e. use sugar soap) before putting the new paint on.


How do I know when evaporative/swamp cooler pads should be replaced?

You're going to be up there at least twice a year, to put on and remove the jacket, so check the state of the pads each time.

You won't need to replace them every year, but treat them like any filter - if it looks dirty or clogged, it probably needs replacing.

The pads in your photo don't look bad - I'd leave them for now, and check again in Spring.


Before you start with a sander, I would try a power washer.  These can be rented from a big box store for a day or two. If you have several projects, consider purchase. You do need to be careful since the force of the water is strong enough to cause injury if mishandled. Also, do not try to powerwash very soft woods such as redwood or cedar.

It is amazing how much embedded grime and algae the washer can remove. If you still need sanding before refinishing, the amount of sanding will be greatly reduced. You also may find you can use a penetrating opaque or semi-opaque stain rather than the heavy coating type finish. Small chips or divots can be filled with exterior wood filler.

As to the swelled boards that eliminated drip joints, if this is only in a few places and there is no pooling water, this should not be a problem.  You do need to sand down any spots that have raised enough to be a trip hazard.


Can I use flux core wire with MIG shield gas (argon/CO2)?

Maybe, but best not use the gas. The flux core has deoxidizers in it like aluminum , silicon and manganese ( not really a deoxidizer). They are expected to react with oxygen from the air and be consumed. If the oxygen is kept away by the gas some of those elements will dissolve into the molten metal . This will add alloys that may affect the properties of the deposit . Many years ago Lincoln did something like this and the resulting welds had high silicon and manganese causing them to be too strong.


They make paint specifically for tile. It's typically an epoxy based paint.


Help my toilet doesn't Flush completely the first time or second time

educate kids/occupants not to put anything into the toilet bowl other than

normal bodily excreta.
minimal amounts of toilet paper. (n.b. wet-wipes etc can cause partial blockages)

check the fill level in the cistern/tank, adjust as needed.
replace the flush valves in the cistern/tank.
clean out the inlet holes around the rim.
use a limescale remover in the bowl and in the tank.
snake the sewer pipe.
replace the whole thing.


I get the issue with the nails.  I think you need to try to take them out.
I would start with a sledge hammer and try to tap one of the sides inward.   When demo'ing a deck you are taking full swings to do the same thing but I would go really light.   All you need is a slight gap.   Once you get a tiny gap get a crow bar in their and try to get it popped out maybe to a 1/2" - I would not go further.
This only works if you can work it out without the rest of the deck moving and getting angles jacked up.   So either you need to tap softer or just back out of this or try the other side and start over.
Once you get around a 1/2" (doesn't have to be that far) cut the nails with a reciprocating saw.
I would support this corner while you do this by either jack it up or throwing up something like a 2x6 which should be plenty with no load on deck.  Now follow the same procedures for the other side and this side should be easier.
From there you need to raise the jack or 2x6 to level.   Then drill a hole in each side for a lag bolt.   Get your bolts in at level and then try to get one more hole on each side for another lag bolt.
Option 2...   Dig post out really really good .   Raise it up with jack and framing.   Note that you must have this secure well to get the concrete raised (this could be easier if they didn't go very deep hence the sinking).   Pour a couple more bags in or go down to the appropriate depth for your region.   Let dry then take supports out.
Either of these options could be a 1 day deal.   If you are dismantling a lot of the deck to get to post top (remember you have to saw those nails out) then I would try option 2 first.   Digging this thing out in a muddy yard might take 30-40 mins and will give you an easy view of how hard it will be.   This would be my choice if deck looked nice minus the tilt.


It looks like it is a three way switch, but I am not sure

It isn't. What I see is

That seems fairly straightforward to me

The black wires are permanent line (live/hot/phase)
The red wires are switched line (live/hot/phase)
The white wires are neutral
The green wire is a ground (earth) bond between switch housing and metal wall-box

So, I don't see a three-way arrangement (two switches controlling one light)

Whether the use of colours is compliant with local code (regulations) depends on where this is located and when it was installed.

Sorry for the horrible diagram, I must find a better tool than MS-Windows-Paint!

As bib pointed out in a comment, my diagram omits one black wire from the left switch to the bottom left (room light) cable. I conjecture that this may have been to provide power to something like a ceiling fan with a separate pull-switch built into the hub - but that's just a guess on my part.

  how can I tell if the box is actually grounded?

It probably isn't, unless there is a connection to the back-box we can't see (perhaps to the outer metal sheath of an amoured cable.

You can test this with a multimeter and, with all power to the building turned off and verified off, measure resistance between metal-back box and the white wires. If the resistance is low there is a ground connection between back-box and the neutral-ground bond near the main incomer or main panel.


Why does my propane oven emit a chemical smell when in use?

Pull the oven burner and check for lint or any thing that could partially block the air inlet at the burner venturi. If you can see the flame, It should be blue and have a definite pattern not yellow and lazy. My last home had propane for cooking and the stove required more than normal maintenance. If the odor is a "burn your nose or eyes" kind of odor that usually means not enough combustion air at the flame, and a weird smell is what you get. – d.george 6 hours ago


Use less water with concrete water reducer?

You might want to contract a civil engineer to help keep the concrete people honest. If your engineer provides them with mix specification and makes test cylinders from each load, that should keep them on their toes (even if you don't follow though with testing the cylinders - they don't know if you will or you won't, so they have to assume you will - which they will be far more likely to assume if you have a site engineer and/or technician overseeing the pour and taking samples, rather than you trying to do that yourself.) If you have proper cylinders made by a certified technician and properly cured, you also have the option of hanging onto them and only paying for testing in the event that you have a failure of the pool and need to find out of the concrete was, in fact, up to snuff. Your engineer might also be able to offer you valuable advice that could either save you money or make your project more prone to succeed. They are not free, but they are often quite reasonably affordable, especially when considered as part of an expensive project.

The linked document also mentions measuring air content, which is generally how most "water reducers" work (adding additional air bubbles, which make the concrete flow better without as much water - and they have other, mostly beneficial effects.) So that's one way to verify that the water reducer has been used, rather than more water added. Again, this is probably best done by a technician with the proper tools, hired for the day via your engineer - and would be part of making test cylinders anyway.


Trying to fix leaky faucet but can’t find set screw

You will need an Allen Wrench to loosen the set screw. They are sold in sets of right angled wrenches and several varying sizes. There are metric and SAE sized also.
Faucet set screws are usually SAE and sized towards the smaller end of the wrench sizes.


The tone of your post scares me a little. Meaning if you are working in this box and cannot even identify the neutral, and are asking if one of the blacks is it, you should really get some experience or read up on basic home wiring before you start pulling things apart.

Bottom line is, the bundle of spliced whites in the bak of the box is your neutral.


Hot water tank issue (rust or other buildup?)

That's as good an excuse as any for buying an endoscope.  I've wanted one for a while.
You did not say if you have hard or soft water.  That matters.
I think your tank is too far gone.  Tanks that do not get anode rod replacements are typically good for 8-15 years depending on usage.  Tanks that do can go from 15-25 years that has been my experience.  Your tank has been missing an anode rod for a long time now.
If you have hard water you should be periodically draining sediments.  If you have very hard water you should replace the dip tube with a curved dip tube.  This allows the tank to be drained then all of the sediments to be expelled.  If you don't do this then they build up on the bottom and cause the bottom of the tank to overheat which damages the glass and causes the tank to start rusting.
The tank is steel with vitreous glass bonded to the inside.  The glass does not perfectly cover all the steel in the tank which is why there's an anode rod.
If you have copper pipe there should be dielectric fittings used.
The hotter the temp you keep the water heater the faster it will corrode.


How does the wiring in this light hookup?

Time to break out the multi-meter.  You can safely assume the two black wires from the switch are interchangeable.  But the white wires from the lamp sockets are not.  Cut that blog off that connects the two and test each side.  The outer metal ring needs to be the neutral and the center tab the hot.  Use the multi-meter to see which wire has continuance from either the ring or center tab.  Wire both center tabs (of the light socket) to one of the black wires from the switch.

To then wire the light to the wall.  The other black will then be wired to the hot (black) and the two free whites will be wired to the neutral.


How to fix cracks in hybrid gypsum/plaster ceiling?

You’re almost certainly going to want gypsum plaster a.k.a. Plaster of Paris
Since you’re fixing a cracking issue, the last thing you want is to introduce something that won’t expand and contract like its neighbors. I’ve gotten away with this kind of repair using drywall mud in a pinch, but temperature or especially humidity swings make it less likely that modern mud compounds will move like the plaster around it and you’ll be back.
Remove any loose or oily material
I like to use a dish scrub brush or whisk broom. Dampen the surface before applying new plaster and watch for spots that don’t absorb uniformly. Remove the coating further on those.
If sections are found peeling away from the wallboard, carefully use a chisel to chip the edges back to solid.
That crack above the drapes will definitely need poked and pried to drop any pieces that have lost adhesion from the wallboard. Hit it with the wire brush, then if it doesn’t crumble back grab a putty knife and poke around. Odds are you’re going to have to make what looks like a bigger mess to actually fix the hidden damage.
The other crack may not be as bad, but it’s hard to tell from lighting. Same treatment.
Feather out like tape and texture
Unless your whole ceiling looks like a spiderweb (in which case congrats you’re probably in for removing and refinishing the whole thing), just feather it in. Be sure to pack all the voids. Sand smooth when done.
Good news is these are good candidates for localized repair. Poke around with your thumb to make sure things haven’t softened, remediate anything that has.
Long lines draw the eye so be extra careful. Sand the paint back a bit (is it lead?) around the areas you’ll be plastering. When you go to sand out the new plaster, use a longer sanding block than you think you can get away with and remember to use an X pattern.
Move the lamps around while putting on final coat and during sanding. Wipe up dust with a damp cloth before deciding spots are too high.
Are you sure you know why your ceiling cracked?
If it cracked due to old settling, great. If you have expansive soils, brace yourself. If you have changed the load characteristics of the building, it’s best if you can wait a few seasons to let it re-settle.
If you changed insulation or HVAC conditions, maybe also wait a few seasons. In-wall moisture changes are of particular interest since if you have gained a moisture problem you’re literally just hiding it by patching the cracks.


20 amp circuit breaker for sylvania sb10(20-20)c panel

Your panel accepts Eaton BR circuit breakers
If you look in the third box down of the center column of your panel's labeling, it describes exactly what breakers you're allowed to put in it.  The difficulty here is that all the companies mentioned are out of business -- but before they died, they sold their breaker lines to other companies, so while the original companies don't exist, the breaker lines still do.  Your panel is listed as accepting Type C breakers (which originally were Challenger brand), and Type BR breakers (originally Bryant) if they're rated for switch duty (SWD), which all new ones are.
Today, Eaton makes breakers that are compatible with this panel, as they now own both the Challenger and Bryant panel lines.  Eaton Type BR breakers are also listed as Type C, so they are completely compatible with your panel's labeling.  It's also a modern, fully-supported breaker line, so you can easily get AFCI, GFCI, and other newer breaker types as needed.
A basic Type BR/Type C 20 A breaker looks like this (via Lowes):

Original Challenger Breakers Are A Problem
I notice your panel has some original Challenger brand breakers in it.  These breakers have proven to be unsafe over the years, and have caused many fires.  As such, it's highly recommended that you replace them with Bryant or Eaton breakers, which do not have that problem.  See here for more information.


Lots of fixtures or canopies are made to attach directly to cable or conduit, with integral cable clamps or knockouts for suitable (listed, rated...) cable clamps or conduit entry.  This one is not.
The NEC requires light fixtures be listed, and used as intended by the manufacturer.  The metal ring in your photo is not for direct surface mounting, it's made to go on a box, using it for a surface mount is not compliant.
There are a few other code provisions that could be problematic, protection from abrasion and water seepage, etc.  They didn't even wrap the ground wire around the screw.  But the main thing you need here is a box.  Retrofitting it will be a bit of a project.
The box doesn't necessarily fix everything;  the fixture must be suitable (listed, rated for outdoor use, etc.) and made to mount on the type of box that you install.


What exactly does 'Maximum of 8 No. 12 AWG Branch Circuit Conductors' mean?

This is called box fill. You only have to count 1 of the grounding wires in the box. NEC 314.16.B.5. With that information you gave: Only 7 counted wires. table 314.16.A has many examples of 12AWG wire with 8, all of them allow for 9 with 14AWG wire. that gives enough room for 1 more 14-2 with ground beyond what you needed.


What are the requirements for a header for an open passageway through two rooms?

It's almost surely possible but how much will you have to modify?
Let's assume a structural header is required.
If the header is already high enough, nothing might be required, just remove cripples. If the header is not high enough you may still be able to do this. You might raise a header into the attic and the use hangers to support any beams. Supporting posts would need to be installed to support the new header.


How do I plumb radiators in an off grid cottage?

Back  in the days in the beginning of the tall cast iron radiators, they were set in the loop so that the hot water would rise and by the time it went through the radiators in its zone, and by the time it went through the radiators and cooled it was on the downward leg of the run back to the boiler. This would work best in a two story home where it would go through a few on the first floor, a few more on the second floor, so it would be cool enough to make its way back down to the boiler in the basement, repeating the cycle. It is called a gravity system. there is a small article near the bottom of the page here

12-28-13 edit taken directly from the article

" After a few fires and explosions, Perkins modified his system by installing a temperature-limiting device, operating the system at a lower pressure and temperature. The Perkins’ system was very popular in England until the 1850s but then died out. The idea of high-temperature hot water systems languished until they were revived in the 1920s."

The article goes on to state how the system grew in popularity

I would presume that old tried and true technology would work now. I think that with a little research, since these systems really need to be designed by an engineer to get the flow right, a slightly more efficient system could be had.


How do I prepare the trim and casing around a new door for paint?

The strips you made and installed are called extension jambs.  We use them all the time to fit new windows and doors.  I usually sand and prime them before I install them, but if you have already installed the jambs and old trim, here are a couple of ways to finish them off.

Put a straight piece of blue painters tape down the wall adjacent to the door trims.
Sand the edges carefully so the jambs and trim are flush.
Clean off the dust and apply a bead of latex/acrylic painter's caulk.
Using a 1" putty knife, smooth the caulk to a nice flat layer against the jamb/trim.
Remove the tape immediately. Retouch the caulk gently if removing the tape leaves a ridge.
Let the caulk cure for 24 hours. Minor imperfections can be smoothed out with a sharp utility knife and a damp cloth. If there is some shrinkage in the larger gaps, add a little more caulk, smooth off with your putty knife, let cure.
Paint.

There are painter's caulk that will "fast dry" in an hour, that you may consider.  If you are unhappy with the final leveling of the caulk, you can also use a super thin layer of lightweight spackle (not standard vinyl spackle) applied with a putty knife over the caulk. This product dries in about 20 mins and can be lightly sanded or shaped with a damp cloth.


How to work out which wire goes where when replacing light fixture

Familiarise yourself with typical ways of wiring lights in your country and locale. There are often one standard way of doing things but there are very often other ways of wiring things up that you need to be aware of in case you encounter them. Search related questions here for diagrams.
If you dont have a good tool go and spend $10 on something that might save your life and which will help you work this out.
Familiarise yourself with safe methods of working with electricity. You probably want someone else around to call an ambulance if you get electrocuted. Make sure anyone else in the house knows you are working on the circuit so that they don't do something silly like turning a breaker back on while you are working on a circuit. Make sure you know how to test your tester each time you perform a test.

To work out which wire goes where, apart from matching the wiring colours to known standards, I would

With the light on, verify that you can use your tester to identify at least one live/hot wire. If you can't do this, call an electrician.
Disconnect the circuit using the breaker in the main panel.
Test all the wires in the ceiling box are dead.
Identify the earth wires

bare uninsulated or with green or green/yellow insulation.
often connected to metal box/casing/etc in ceiling or elsewhere

Disconnect all the wire nuts except the ground/earth wires.
Draw a diagram of all the wires showing colours of insulation, presence of coloured tape or other markings on wires.
Make sure no wires are touching.
Switch the breaker back on.
Identify an earth/ground wire, use that for testing. If not present, pick a neutral wire (by insulation colour)
Test every other wire to see which ones are live with respect to your chosen reference wire (ground or neutral). repeat test with other reference wires. write down results carefully and clearly.
Repeat tests with light switch on other position.
Work out what must be the permanent live, what must be the switched live.
Use knowledge from 1 above and test results to deduce correct connections.
Turn off breaker
Check wires are all dead. Check tester still works on live wire elsewhere.
Make connections
Turn breaker on and check lights and outlets work as expected.
Call electrician if needed.

Diagrams

US example
US example

Ceiling wires

US example
US example
US example (horrible)
UK example 1 (old&new colours)
UK example 2 (old colours)
DE example
AU example

Switch wires

US example
UK example


If this is the way you found it and you're sure there used to be a switch there, connect the black wire and the red wire to the two screw terminals on a single pole toggle switch.
If you're not sure, then remove the wire nut from the white wire and test for 120 Volts between the black wire and the white wires with a multi meter. Also check for voltage between the red wire and the white (there should be none). Trace the red wire to the garage light to verify it's for the light.
Turn the breaker on only when checking for voltages and leave it off when doing any work or mounting the switch into the box.


O-Rings are (or should be) cheap - if they are not, try to establish exactly what size they are and shop around; you should be able to find them for a pretty low cost, and replacing them is the right approach, even for "one more year."

While you can try to get a little more life out of them by greasing them up with a pretty stiff silicone grease (typically found as o-ring grease or vacuum grease) that will likely cost more than new o-rings if you don't already have a tube (it helps improve life if applied sparingly to new o-rings.) Since you mention that the o-rings are cracked, I should mention that you may find that they break completely at the cracks when you are handling them to apply grease and re-install them. If everything smiles upon you, you might manage to pack enough grease into the cracks to stop your leaks - but replacing them really is the better approach to try.


How can I wire a switch into an extension cord?

Improper Electrical Wiring constitutes a serious life safety hazard. It can be the source of structural fire and potentially fatal shocks.

I am not saying that you can't splice a common electrical wall switch into an extension cord. I am saying that it is not a good general practice.

Consider Instead

Installing a suitable hardwired outlet and wall mounted switch using techniques suited for permanent installation in the structure.
Alternatively, consider using a listed extension chord with an integral switch such as this or that.


Trying to Determine if Attic Braces and Collar Ties are Structural

2x4 rafters. I'm afraid those should be considered structural. Those rafters shouldn't really span that distance by themselves.


Can I varnish natural wood trim before installation?

The main issue would be with covering any nail/screw holes after you've fixed it to the wall. Other than that I can't see a problem with varnishing before hand.

As each coat of varnish darkens the wood you could end up with a darker patch over each nail. However, using the same approach as usual - leaving the last coat until after installation will reduce this.

Another alternative would be to glue the trim in place - that way there's no nail holes to fill.


Identifying the model of Moen faucet in kitchen

Or should I just disassemble everything and bring them to Home depot
or Lowe's for help?

Yes, take the cartridge to Lowes and look for a match.
If you can not find a match then go to a plumbing supply house.


Probably construction adhesive. The main problem is that this doesn't come off cleanly. On stucco, this is likely to turn into gouging out the letters, glue, and the stucco underneath, then repairing the stucco. Figure out if this is acceptable now.

You can use a hairdryer to heat up the area to soften the glue. There might be screws underneath, used for creating a good surface to adhere to.


Siemens Spring Clip and Bus Bar not compatible!

@samzun - very frustrating, it seems like you're doing your homework and still you have this problem.  It's very good that you caught it though.

I can only see three possibilities:

Someone at Siemens made a mistake confirming compatibility of this
breaker.  I do not believe this to be the case, but Siemen's web
site and literature are not really helpful.  If this is the case,
I'd expect Siemens to provide the correct breaker.
The breaker is
defective.  (Since other breakers fit, I doubt the panel bus is
defective.)  Again I'd expect a warranty replacement either from the
retailer or the manufacturer.
The breaker is a counterfeit.  You
might get a refund from the retailer, but I'd bring it to Siemens
attention.  Siemens and other manufacturers are very interested in
stopping counterfeiters.  See this document from Siemens: Counterfeit
Circuit Breakers: A Growing Threat

If I can make a suggestion, in this and other questions, you are struggling quite a bit working with your panel bus.  It might make more sense to use DIN rail mountable breakers which are commonly used in Europe.  There's no bus with this system.  This seems to me a much easier way to retrofit GFCI protection with your panel.  For example look at the Eaton QPGF2030 or QPHGF2030 breakers.


Remove garbage disposal piece in bottom of sink

You need to loosen the 3 screws that push the collar (top piece in your image) against the bracket (bottom piece) into the sink. Once that is done, a lock ring will be visible (underneath where the collar currently sits). Use some pliers to remove that, and then all the pieces on the underside can be removed. You can then break the putty / silicone to remove the gasket from the drain hole in the sink.

All that said, if you're tossing the sink, it's much easier to just buy a new garbage disposal installation kit, which contains all the pieces shown in your image. Install the new kit on your new sink, and then install the old garbage disposal on it.


Leviton usb charger into an old handy work box

To start, all devices should be mounted flush into the wall unless they are designed otherwise. This is to prevent fire and shock hazard. Leviton and other devices are giving you a box size not only to fit the device but provide air space for heat disbursement.

NEC Article 314 has instructions on how many devices by cubic inch, wire splices, and number and size of conductors you can put into one box. I would follow that rather than instructions in a box or someone who would say it it fits it's ok.

Is there any way you could remove the box and install a cut-in or remodel box that is a required size? If I could that's how I would go.


4 tips to soldering success.

Physically clean - for copper, that's a bright shiny light-pink
color, achieved through abrasive means. Even new fittings need to be cleaned - they are not shipped in oxygen-proof packaging.
Chemically clean - flux.
Hot enough to melt solder (the pipe, never apply the flame directly to the solder) - apply the flame to the joint and the solder to the joint away from the direct flame. When it starts to smear it's close.
But not too hot or you'll burn the flux and oxidize the copper, at which point you need to take it apart and start over from point 1.

You're almost certainly at point 4 now, if you were trying and failing to melt solder for a while.


Chemical Smell After Tankless Water Heater Install

Update: We are still not sure what caused the issue, but we had the plumbing company come out and do a vinegar wash of the entire system. This worked and the smell is gone.