Can I vent a bathroom through the soffit if I use a product designed for it?

In the past I was a big fan of soffit vents. I figured if you used quality vents with a good back-draft damper, and sealed and insulated the duct well, it was a great way to vent bathrooms. There are several key benefits:

First and foremost, it avoids penetrating either the roof or a gable
wall, so it eliminates any risk of liquid water intrusion from
wind-blown rain or unsheltered gable walls. However problematic humid
air is for an attic, I think liquid water is an order of magnitude
worse..
It also allows for short efficient duct runs, keeps the duct low (in between
the floor joists), and therefore well underneath blown in insulation
(so you can use rigid duct and avoid the need for separate
insulation).
Finally using a soffit vent sort of creates a thermal trap- warm air
from inside the duct wants to rise not sink, so there should be less
heat less when the exhaust fan isn't running. Even with dampers at
the fan and the vent, those dampers are certainly not airtight. Often
the end of the duct often goes up a little bit before going down and
out the soffit vent, so that only enhances this thermal trap.

However despite all these benefits, which I think are significant, I'm starting to reconsider whether soffit venting is generally a good idea. I've done it this way in the past and I'm a little embarrassed that I never even considered the fact that a substantial portion of the exhaust air could get sucked right back into the soffit vent or adjacent soffit vents.

I do think that by closing off the soffit vents (into the attic) in the joist bay that you're venting from, and one on either side, will greatly mitigate this issue. The moisture should diffuse into the surrounding air very rapidly, especially when there even the slightest breeze. As will making sure the underside of these soffits is painted or otherwise moisture resistant. I also think it's important to realize that this is just bathroom air we're talking about, not a dryer vent, so while the air will be humid during showers it's not like we're blowing clouds of steam..

Also keep in mind that the whole point of soffit vents is to allow air to constantly wash along the underside of the roof decking, and remove any moisture from the attic, so any moist air that gets sucked in or condensation happening should be quickly removed- not saying that this can't possibly pose a problem (especially in winter), but I think there's a lot of built-in tolerance.

So I'm somewhat on the fence. I'm leaning towards thinking venting through a gable wall is better, especially if it is protected by an overhang, but I don't think soffit venting is as horrible as some make it out to be. And I would probably choose soffit venting over making another hole in the roof any day, for retrofit especially. I also think Dave makes a lot of good points.


What should I use to seal the hole where my central air enters the house?

Duct seal, or similar product, is a common solution.

Kneed it until malleable, then mold it in and around the hole like clay. It is nontoxic, paintable, and will stay flexible.


Can I reuse my sink during a kitchen renovation?

Most commercially purchased drop in sinks as easy to remove and reinstall.  Only custom built ins are not so easy.
Commercial drop ins are held in place by clamps up under the sink and or silicone RTV.
When removing in future the clamps are loosened and the RTV cut away.  The sink pulled and cleaned then reused.
Check the sink you plan to purchase and see how it is secured.


Pros and cons of painting basement walls in the unfinished sections?

Certainly a fresh coat of paint costs little in money, time, and effort for the difference it makes as an impression on your potential buyers (do the floor too for best impact.) I've done this, and heard from the realtor afterwards...
If you choose a light color (or white, my personal preference) it's much brighter, dust from raw concrete is reduced or eliminated, and it does not cause any detrimental effects if finishing is later contemplated.
I use flat, not gloss as it minimizes rather than accentuates the surface irregularities. Personally I like latex base concrete paint (easy cleanup, easy to recoat if ever needed) but I'll stop short of the brand recommendation. If your "water issues" are not interior, use the "waterproofer" variant of the paint (less coverage, thicker, entirely compatible.) Not a miracle, but I've had it hold minor leaks for years (serious leaks will beat any interior coating, IME.)


You only have to replace the wax ring if the toilet leaks. It's wise to replace it whenever you remove the toilet, though. It's not a matter of age, but the fact that a wax ring is intended to be a single-use item. They squish into place when you set a toilet, and that can't happen very well more than once.

It's certainly possible that you achieved a satisfactory seal when you reinstalled the toilet. If you're willing to wait and see, and take the risk of (potentially smelly) water damage to your floor, go with it.


You'll need to mount them to something substantial
NEC 314.23 requires all junction boxes to be securely and rigidly supported, whether it be by mounting to the face of a wall, attachment to a structural member, "old work" clamps into a finished surface, a pair of rigid conduits, or being embedded into cement or brick.  So, your inspector was bang on in calling out your floppy boxes for a fix, even if they didn't have the Code cite on the tip of their tongue.


What are these controls attached to my boiler for?

This is a thermostat (or aquastat) that regulates the temperature in your boiler. Appears to be an IMIT TLSC model. Here's a similar product on amazon.

According to the instructions below, that button is a manual overheat reset. This thermostat has redundant controls - a dial you can turn (set 0-90C), but also a safety shutoff, designed to turn off at a temp just above the dial's maximum (90-110C according the instruction sheet below). That way if the dial-operated controls get stuck on somehow, there is an extra check to avoid overheating your boiler. (Overheating the boiler is bad because it creates pressure, leading to leaks or explosion.)

The button is usually covered by a removable plastic cover, which appears to have been removed here.

It's possible you also have a reset control located elsewhere on the boiler, e.g. on your oil burner. A reset control on the burner would cut off fuel to prevent overheating. The pictured thermostat's control would cut off the electrical signal to run the burner. These systems are not entirely redundant - you're protected against a wider range of failures by having both.


How can I lower a sink trap to accommodate an appliance drain connection?

There are two different connections that you're dealing with. The tailpiece from the sink into the p-trap (the connection at #1) is called a slip joint. The connection at #2 is made with a union (and sometimes with a gasket).

I'm not aware of a fitting that would work for you but maybe by looking at this plumbing supplier's website you might find what you are looking for or a least the terms for that you need.


Should furnace fan run when return and supply are 'backwards'?

You're right--it's not a matter of efficiency, but of comfort. I'm in a similar climate, and the only time I run the fan between heat cycles is if 1) I have the fireplace burning and it gets very warm in some parts of the house, or 2) I have a lot of company over and we need air circulation.

Otherwise, it just makes the house feel cold. I wouldn't do it. Granted, I don't have your reversed airflow path, so I may not have issues with window icing and cold zones to the degree that you do.

I'd look into having flow reversed. It's probably a fairly inexpensive job to reconfigure the furnace plenums, and you could tackle the vent swaps yourself. That is, of course, if the duct capacity is appropriate.


Why is the vent pipe in the basement and not the roof?

Are you talking about that flexible tube sticking off to the right? It's not a vent pipe. It's a poorly done drain for something like a clothes washer or a water softener.

I suggest pulling that flexible tube out, scraping off the black crud, and gluing in a short piece of PVC pipe and a cap.


Unless the existing cord is removable, you'll have to extend it with a second cord. Yes, the connection between the two will be ugly if it's hanging in the middle of the wall, but you could wrap up the whole first cable behind the player so that the joint between the two is also behind the player. You'll need a longer extension, but if it's important to you then it'll be worth it.


390 MHz Garage Door Opener and Raspberry Pi

You're making this more difficult than it needs to be. Use a relay connected to the R pi. If you want it wireless, then have the relay switch the button on the remote. If you want it wired, connect the relay directly to the garage door opener to its terminals to open/close it.


One Dimmer to Rule Them All

In general, no matter how many control locations one has in a lighting branch, one can only have one dimmer for that branch, at a single control location, namely either the "line" or "load" end of the switch arrangement.  The other control locations receive switches, wired in a traveler-system multi-way configuration to the dimmer, provided the dimmer provides what is known as a "3-way" or "traveler" terminal, which indicates that the internal switch in the dimmer is really a 3-way switch instead of being an ordinary single-pole switch.

Digital technology changes the rules

However, modern digital wallbox lighting controllers, such as the Lutron Maestro and Leviton Vizia, change the rules of the game.  Instead of being stuck with the limitations imposed by mechanical switches, these systems use communicating remotes mounted at the other locations.  These remotes talk to a compatible master dimmer over a proprietary powerline-communications protocol, often implemented using one of the traveler wires to power the remotes and the other to aid in communications.  Furthermore, this may allow the master dimmer (which does all the heavy lifting of dimming the lights) to be placed at a variety of locations in the circuit.

A commercial aside

If you have seen commercial lighting control systems, you will notice that they do not rely on wallbox mounted lighting controls.  Instead, they use low-voltage controls that mount to the wall.  These controls then talk over a wired interface to a central lighting control panel that performs the dimming work.  This is more costly and infrastructure-heavy than wallbox controls, which is why it is not commonly used in all but the highest-end residental work, but does provide a great deal of control flexibility and also handles higher power than wallbox controls can manage.


Mold and mildew are both fungus growths but former is usually a black or greenish color whilst the mildew is typically a more white or light gray in color. A mildew could also appear to be fuzzy.

Mildew is easy to clean up using a readily available cleaner and a scrub brush. I would suggest that you experiment to see of those white splotches are able to be scrubbed up and if so then let the maintenance folks know that it should be removed.

In the other hand these white patches could be the residue of some type of foam based carpet padding that stuck to the wood and stayed behind when the old carpet and padding was ripped out. If this is the case then it should be possible to remove most of it using a scraper or putty knife.


Is there anyway to get the door open without damaging or replacing the door?

Yes, drill out the heads of the three carriage bolts and then replace them after you re-attach a new chain.

Good luck!


Replace buried polybutelyne/Qest with Pex

That tool you're looking at works in soil. I doubt it would be able to break up a concrete slab as you pull it.

I didn't realize that you were talking about just the main water line. It is very likely that the main runs under the slab. The piping to your fixtures is probably in the slab.

For your main line, the simplest solution is to trench in a new line, but find a more convenient way to get it in to the house, and run the rest of the way from there through walls and ceiling. That way you only have to drill a hole in your slab near an exterior wall.

Or, depending on your climate and local code, you can come up the side of your house and enter through a wall. Here in central Florida, this is a perfectly acceptable solution.


How to remove the top foot of inground pool wall?

A lot of people are doing the same thing here in the South- Western part of the States (mostly because of the drought). But it sounds like you have the plan (man). Be ready to deal with the embedded cage of re-bar. The hydraulic bobcat hammer is the apex demo tool to bust concrete, but you'll have to cut some tenacious 1/2 inch rebar (reciprocating saw, oxy-acetylene). I'm guessing you'll just let it drop to the pool bottom to act as fill?  The next tool you should consider using to cut through reinforced concrete is a concrete wet saw (like a Stihl TS400). This is a gas powered portable saw with a 14 inch blade and usually has a connection for a hose so as to spray the airborne dust from spreading. Also, be alert to the electric lines buried for any pool lights and expect to see 1 1/2 inch PVC encircling the entire pool shell. FYI: I've read (but never witnessed) an occurrence that may happen if the ground around the pool shell is thoroughly saturated and the pool is empty the pool can be pushed from the ground due to static water pressure.


Whirlpool ice maker making knocking noise, but still makes ice

I had the exact same issue.  Web search just turned up retailers and drop shippers trying to sell me a new ice maker.

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS KIND OF REPAIR UNLESS YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH WIRING ISSUES!!

There are several YouTube videos showing how to remove and replace the ice maker from the freezer.

What I discovered was a poor connection at the factory wire nut connecting the thermostat to the heating element.  This prevented the heating element from warming up fast enough to free the cubes before the ejection fingers hit the cubes.  Fingers could not move causing the gears to slip.  I simply removed the crimped wire nut, soldered the connection and replaced the wire nut with a twist on type.  Unit has worked great ever since.


What is the purpose of a watt regulator in my ceiling fan?

Here's the real story:

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/appliance_standards/residential/ceiling_fans.html

As required by the Energy Policy Act of 2005 (EPACT 2005), the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) has established test procedures and energy conservation standards for ceiling fans and for ceiling fan light kits.

Ceiling fan light kits with any other socket type including but not limited to candelabra screw base sockets, intermediate screw-base sockets, 2-pin halogen sockets, and bayonet sockets manufactured on or after January 1, 2009, shall not be capable of operating with lamps that total more than 190 watts and must be packaged with lamps that together total 190 watts or less. DOE indicated in a January 11, 2007, final rule that it recognizes that manufacturers may choose to follow one of several possible design pathways to ensure that the light kit is not capable of operating with lamps that total more than 190 watts.

http://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=EERE-2006-TP-0121-0003

DOE is interpreting the 190-watt limit on power consumption for certain ceiling fan light kits as a design requirement. This approach will require that manufacturers incorporate some measure such as a fuse, circuit breaker or current-limiting device to ensure the light kit is not capable of operating with a lamp or lamps totaling more than 190 watts.


Can I use a Directv 4 way splitter to connect to an over the air TV antenna?

SWM splitters aren't really splitters, they're active (powered) switches.  The power is applied to the cable on the input side.  Here's a page on how they work

No harm to try, but I doubt it will work for you.  Passive splitters are fine if the runs from the splitter to the TV are short, and they're usually around $10 to $15.  If those runs are long, then you may benefit from a powered splitter.


The Synthetic stucco as shown in the photo is applied directly over Polyisocyanurate foam core board with a Glass-mat on both sides.
That application does not meet the EIMA standards.
The way this Synthetic Stucco was applied would render it to be unrepairable.


Is that filter housing rated for vacuum?
One possibility is the vacuum is causing cavitation at the pump or a slight air leak at the housing that’s why I asked if the filter housing is rated for vacuum.
Having a restriction (filter) on the inlet will reduce the pumps ability to work correctly.  for example having to prime all that, just a little air and the pump cannot pull though the filter, if it’s having issues with a clean filter it will be impossible with a dirty one.

I would be locating the pump prior to the filter. Having a screen is fine but the sediment filter will make it much more problematic if you can ever get it to work.


What are some tips for installing laminate wood flooring?

Pick up a kit like this from your local hardware store, it will include every thing you need.

Make sure you measure the room and make sure the last row is not going to be a tiny sliver, it is better to start with a thinner first row than get to the end and realize you are going to have a really thin last row.

Also be very careful when tapping the boards together, if you go to far you will chip/crush the board you are butting up to.  When tapping the boards together be careful not to let the tapping block slip up, because that too will chip the plank.

Oh and don't forget to remove any baseboards before you start, and then measure again without the base boards.

When buying the underlay material make sure you get some that is made for concrete, you don't want moisture wicking up through the concrete into your new floor.

It's also a good idea to pick up an extra box or two of flooring, it could save you a trip to the store in the middle of the project if you underestimated or damage some of the planks during install.  You can always return any unopened boxes when your done.

A miter saw is also very handy.

EDIT:

Be careful when tapping the planks into place, if you don't have weight on the floor or you are not using spacers the whole floor could shift and become crooked (I learned this the hard way).  I was about halfway across the room when I realized the planks that I had previously installed were shifted, if I hadn't caught it I would have ended up with a very crooked floor.


Probably just needs new seal. Get someone to help you with the following.
You will need: 1 wax ring, putty knife, plunger, wrench, new hold down screws if old ones are rusty, towel or small container, trash bag.
 Cut water valve off, flush toilet to empty tank, use plunger to remove last bit of water in bowl, place small container or towel under tank incase excess water drips, then unhook water line from toilet. Place tank lid in a safe place so it wont get broken. Remove the two hold down nuts on either side of the commode. Lift toilet and Lay the toilet on its side . Take putty knife and scrape old ring off bottom of toilet then scrape and clean the flange in floor. Place new ring on the bottom of the toilet. Replace toilet on flange and put on new hold down nuts. Hook water line back up. Good luck.


When I hear  neutral called "common" I think someone is likening the Neutral to the concept in electronics of "Common" or "GND" or "Vss".  That is wrong. There is indeed a thing like that, but it is Equipment Safety Ground, and it does not handle current except during fault conditions.

Other than that, mains electrical is wired effectively as an "isolated system", which each Neutral current return wired very much like it is another hot.  Neutrals are not spiderwebbed.  You cannot return current on any arbitrary neutral.  Mains wiring is very particular which neutral is used to return current for a particular hot.  Why, you ask?  Several reasons to start.

Not least, Neutrals don't have breakers.  Most siliconheads forget that.  If that stove is returning 10 amps while your microwave is returning 15 amps, it is returning 25A of current on a 15A wire which again, has no breaker.  Whoops!
Currents must be equal in each cable or conduit. Because this is AC power, and EMFs are a thing.  When currents are unequal, the EMF thrown by the various wires do not cancel each other out, and cause all sorts of mischief, including vibration of the wires, leading to fatigue failire, arcing at the failure point, and heat/fire.
No Looping. If current went in a loop around something, aside from the above problem, what's inside the loop would become the core of a transformer. Among other things, this causes eddy current heating in anything metallic.  Special considerations must be made even when several wires are put in adjacent conduits due to space limitation reasons.

The upshot of all this is that mains wiring must be a strict tree topology, no looping or crossovers.

Grounds are allowed to loop or spiderweb because current does not travel on them except during fault conditions.

Oh yeah.  You can retrofit ground.

And here is where you are in luck.  The three wires to your old stove connection are not are not hot, hot, ground.   They are hot, hot, neutral. No ground.

It is completely legal for you to continue in service the H H N conductors,and retrofit a ground.

However, the ground path needs to be the full thickness required for a ground of a 30/40/50A circuit, which is 10 AWG.   It must be that width all the way back to the same service panel the conductors come out of, you cannot poach the smaller #12 or #14 ground off the nearby plug.

It will suffice to reach anywhere that has a #10 or larger ground path back to the panel, including grounded 30+ amp appliances such as water heater, A/C, dryer if 4-prong, etc. it will also suffice to reach the grounding electrode system, the bare copper wire from the panel to the grounding rods.


How to prevent pressure from dropping from my water heater?

It appears to me you are building pressure using the bladder tanks. Once the pressure reserved in those tanks is depleted your pressure drops because the flow is restricted (possibly ahead of those tanks). I would agree with Justin that you have a restriction that is reducing the flow and after the bladder tanks are depleted you are only getting the flow through the main line.

The fact that it takes longer to fill the sink with pure cold water tells me your problem is a restriction in the line feeding the water heaters and the bladder tanks are compensating for this somewhat when you fill the sink with pure hot water.

Look for a restriction in your main cold water feed line, and then at other points in the system. Check the air pressure in your bladder tanks with the line drained. Lastly, the piping looks too small to me. I would upsize that piping for better flow.


Your options at this point are scraping it off or dissolving it.  My first suggestion would be contacting the tile manufacturer.  They would have the best idea of what your tile can handle as far as physical abuse or acid.

Scraping

Scraping is attractive as a primary option because you can go slowly and start in a small inconspicuous area to see if it will damage the tile.  There's no perfect tool for this as far as I know.  I'd start with an abrasive sponge (you might get lucky), steel wool (good for streaks) and then lightly attack clumps with a razor, painter's tool or small sharp chisel.  To limit damage to the tile, you want the tool to be as horizontal as you can make it and still work safely with it.  You should quickly determine how much abuse your tile can handle and if a few scrapes ruins your floor.  Most likely it will be a slow and painful process.

Acid

Sulfumic acid will work if the grout is not too thick, the main concern is what it will do to the tile underneath.  Again, find a small spot to test first.  Etching is usually caused because the tile absorbs the acid.  To limit this, I would wet the tile pretty thoroughly with clean water first.  Gloves, mask, and good ventilation are a must when working with the acid.  If the grout is pretty thick, this may loosen it up enough that you can scrub it away with a scraping method.  Follow the instructions and don't let it sit long enough that it eats through the top layer of tile.

Replacement

I wouldn't overlook replacement as a possibility, depending on how many tiles are an issue.  It's entirely possible you will damage the tile trying to remove the grout anyway.  I'm assuming you did the tile work (or you should be calling the contractor to fix this), so you should be able to replace a tile, just break it, scrape up the surrounding grout and install a new one.  If it's old work (and you can find tile that matches), it might be worth a few calls to find what a tile mechanic might charge for a small job.


That is one version of a security screw, there are several types.

Used to try to make items not easily opened by the masses so you have to buy another instead of fixing something simple...

Depending on how deep they are I have used needle nose pliers or made a "socket" for them - I see those as a challenge and have boxes of "ordinary" screws to replace them.


SunTouch underfloor heater without floor sensor?

Because the radiant floor could get too hot while the external temperature sensor still indicates below required T.
This could damage the element or part of the floor.
The underfloor heating (water) I fitted had two temperature sensors - one for the ambient and one at the output of the mixing valve to shut down the pump if the output was above a certain value so the pipes did not get damaged through overheating.


Are generator interlock kits permitted in residential applications?

It seems the decision is ultimately in the hands of the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ), as long as "equivalent objectives can be achieved" using the device.

  National Electrical Code 2008

  ARTICLE 100 Definitions

  Approved. Acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction.

  Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ). An organization, office, or individual responsible for enforcing the requirements of a code or
  standard, or for approving equipment, materials, an installation, or a
  procedure.

  ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations

  110.2 Approval. The conductors and equipment required or permitted by this Code shall be acceptable only if approved.

  ARTICLE 90 Introduction

  90.4 Enforcement. This Code is intended to be suitable for mandatory application by governmental bodies that exercise legal
  jurisdiction over electrical installations, including signaling and
  communications systems, and for use by insurance inspectors. The
  authority having jurisdiction for enforcement of the Code has the
  responsibility for making interpretations of the rules, for deciding
  on the approval of equipment and materials, and for granting the
  special permission contemplated in a number of the rules.

  By special permission, the authority having jurisdiction may waive
  specific requirements in this Code or permit alternative methods where
  it is assured that equivalent objectives can be achieved by
  establishing and maintaining effective safety.

  This Code may require new products, constructions, or materials that
  may not yet be available at the time the Code is adopted. In such
  event, the authority having jurisdiction may permit the use of the
  products, constructions, or materials that comply with the most recent
  previous edition of this Code adopted by the jurisdiction.

WARNING

While these devices may or may not be approved by the AHJ, they are not the best solution available.  They do not prevent the user from overloading the generator, since the load selection is made by the user dynamically during operation. The better, safer solution, is to install manual or automatic transfer switches. This allows you to pre-select the loads making it a more user friendly solution.


How can we get maximum life of a water well?

Since you are asking about a very old well in your comment , how long can a well last? There are water wells still in use today from biblical times.
If they are deep enough and have not been contaminated by surface water or things being dumped in them the well will last as long as there is water.
You would want to have a sample tested to make sure the water is safe to drink but if the water is good I would use it without question.


What should I know before plastering a concrete pool?

Having done some plaster, but only on interior walls (not drywall, real plaster), and some finish concrete and masonry work, I have to say that the most useful thing you can do is build yourself some sample surfaces and try to learn there.  Actually hardened materials are a major pain to remove, and will look awful if you do a poor job.

Remember that a great deal of the strength in the surface comes from the chemical reactions (including oxidation) in the materials.  Therefore, you really need to have the moisture levels right.  A big challenge when plastering is making sure that the underlying layer doesn't suck the water out of your mix, which will cause the layer you're putting on to fail (because it's too dry when setting up).  Mist the surface carefully: too wet is just as bad as too dry.  (Ask me how I know.  Go ahead, ask ;-))

The remark from DMoore is also right: a smooth appearance over the area is quite important.  Building some guides that allow you to check for high and low spots when you're still wet will make your life easier.  I haven't done anything nearly as large as a pool, but this made my life much easier in large sections of wall that needed to be repaired in a historic building.

I watched the old-timey pros do some plaster over a brick wall in my last house, and it appears to me that the trick for seams is to have the assistant mixing batches to time thing just so.  That way, the edge of the work you're just finishing is still fresh when the new mix shows up, and you never really have a definite seam (this is the "hot joins" bit you mention).  Of course, to make this work you basically have to do the whole job in one go.  Hard to do, if it's big enough.  If you're doing this for the first time, I think planning to do this with only two of you will result in not being able to do that.

Do not neglect keeping the work clean as you go.  You can make a pretty good job look like total crap by having stray bits of mess hanging around, and hardened Portland cement is very hard to clean up.  (You can do it with polishing and so on, but it's way better to get as clean as close as possible in the first place.)

If you can find some smallish and nice finish-concrete or finish-plaster problem to try doing first, your hand and eye with the trowels will be way better when you get to this much bigger job.  If you can learn to love wavy bits in your finished work, then learning as you go might be ok.  But if you can try to learn in some smaller jobs first, I bet your life will be better.  I wish I could go back in time and re-do the first ceiling re-plaster I did, because I could see how I got better as I went across the ceiling (I was out of time because my wife wanted me to cook something rather than butter the ceiling some more!).

Good luck.


What is the proper hole size in tile backer for a shower valve?

There is no official size for it.  As long as the trim can cover it, it's good.  I usually use the provided template.  That works for most trims.

The benefit of the large hole is easy access to the valve in case you need to repair it.  For example, my value has 2 screws allowing me to block the water from flowing to the chamber holding the cartridge.  If I need to replace the cartridge, I don't need to shut off the water of the whole house.

There isn't a greater chance of leaking.  As long as you have the proper seal/water proofing at the edge of the hole, you will be fine.


Recessed lighting in existing concrete light fixture

If the boxes in the concrete are round boxes, there are LEDs that give the look of recessed lights. Here is a link to a source for them. They can only go in a box with a few wires in them, they fill it up pretty well.


A GFCI controls all the lights in the bathroom

A GFCI receptacle has line and load connections. This is different from an ordinary receptacle that has two sets of screws that are functionally identical (as long as the magic tabs are not removed).
This may have been deliberately installed this way. But it is quite possible it was a retrofit GFCI (which is a good idea - they are important safety devices for bathrooms) and the installer didn't understand that GFCI line/load is not the same as a regular receptacle's two sets of screws.
The one catch is that if ant of the lights or the fan are above the tub/shower then they must also be GFCI protected. Assuming that is not the case:

Turn off the breaker and make sure power is out (receptacles dead and lights/fan won't turn on)
Open up the box and pull out the GFCI/breaker. Take pictures, in case anything goes wrong.
Disconnect the wires from the line and load sides.
Connect all the hot wires (these are wires that were on brass or black screws, should be black wires but not always) together with a wire nut and add a short 12 AWG black wire as a pigtail and connect that to the hot line screw.
Connect all the neutral wires (these are wires that were on silver screws, should be white wires but not always) together with a wire nut and add a short 12 AWG white wire as a pigtail and connect that to the neutral line screw.
Put everything back together and turn on the breaker.
Verify that the GFCI TEST/RESET buttons work.
Verify that the receptacles work.
Verify that lights/fan work and that GFCI TEST does not shut off the lights/fan.


No -- there is a "dip tube" attached to the inlet of the heater so the cold water coming in goes to the bottom and then up the heater as it is heated, with the hot port taking its output from the top of the heater.  When the plumber swaps the two, the cold water winds up having to sink down the heater on its own and the hot water is now being drawn from the bottom, which is what causes the lukewarm water you were seeing.

Call a more competent plumber and have them get the tank hooked up correctly.


How to determine storage capacity needed for water runoff tanks?

Measurements and observations
Precipitation is measured with units of length rather than volume. At first blush that seems odd: why would we measure a quantity of water in inches or millimeters rather than cups, gallons, or liters? The answer is that volume depends on surface area.
When weather observers in your region say that the average rainfall is "12 inches per year" what that means is that if you set out an open-top container of arbitrary size with walls perpendicular to the earth, and if we assume no wind during the rainfall events, then water will accumulate 12 inches deep in that container. In theory it doesn't matter whether the container is an inch or a mile across. Square or round. Man-made container or natural pond or ephemeral pool in the sandstone.
Weather observation standards call for a rain gauge to be placed out in the open, spaced away from any obstruction by at least two times the height of the obstruction.
Wind puts a bit of a wrench in the works, as do obstructions like buildings or trees. If the collection surface isn't horizontal that changes things too. Consider that when rain falls while wind is blowing, one face of a building will get fully wet even though there's a roof overhang (the windward side) while the opposite face of the building will remain entirely dry, as will some amount of ground beyond the building (the leeward side). A rain collection made on the leeward side of an obstruction will take in less than a collection on the windward side. A surface that is tilted to be more normal (perpendicular) to the rainfall vector will collect more rain, while a surface that is tilted to be more parallel to the rainfall vector may collect much less.
Applied to rooftop collection
The simplest way to estimate the storage volume needed is to find the projected surface area of the roof and multiply by the average annual precipitation. By "projected surface area" I mean the amount of ground covered by the roof -- the amount of floor coverings you'd need under the roof, rather than the amount of shingles you'd need to cover the roof.
This simple method overlooks some obvious sources of error. If there is a tree or other building nearby it'll block some rain from reaching the roof surface. If there are winds present while the rain falls, a stronger wind may result in less rain collection. If the roof is pitched rather than flat then losses to wind will increase with roof steepness. Orientation of the building's larger or smaller roof faces with reference to prevailing wind direction will also play a part.
Bottom line
Water not collected because the container is already full is a missed opportunity. Storage containers have cost, as does the time to do careful engineering accounting for wind, roof slopes, and so on. Only you can determine how much cost can be supported today by the possibility of catching or missing some water in the future.
Start with the simple calculation: build a container with cubic foot volume equal to 1000 sq ft * (1 ft of rain + X ft of snow water content).
If containers are costly then start a little smaller than this and add when experience shows that your roof requires it. On the other hand, if excess capacity now is cheap and later expansion of the storage is costly, then oversize it a bit.


Tips for getting cables through old work box knockouts and into wall

I'd use a different style of clamp for this job
Given that you're in an old-work situation and dealing with fragile cables, I'd use a style of clamp such as a Raco Insider or Arlington White Button that's designed to be installed from inside the box instead of from the outside of the box the way a traditional (two screw) NM clamp is.


Wet smell, finished basement, aggravates when it rains -how do I find the source?

Having vapor barriers in most basement environments is a really bad idea.  Really these only are a good idea in extremely cold environments or when a basement is truly a "basement" - meaning it is completely below ground level.

It is highly likely that water is saturating your foundation and then not drying quickly because of the vapor barrier.  But there are just a ton of reasons:

Given you have carpet the moisture could be seeping in from the floor and staying in the carpet a bit.  You may not even notice this but the carpet becoming constantly a little damp will make it smell.
It could be just water trapped in the walls because of the vapor barrier or trapped in the insulation itself.  This will not be totally fixed unless you tear down all the drywall - or enough to take vapor barrier and bottom insulation out.  See people 10 years ago and even now thought that insulating your basement walls top to bottom with batts fiberglass was the best way to do it.  Well it traps water and causes mold growth and provides no cost savings in most regions.
You could have a leak.  Basically you will probably need to untack carpet or flooring around the perimeter to see if water is leaking in.  I doubt that you have a real leak and not see any moisture at all underneath your walls.

Dehumidifiers are for very small constant humidity problems.  When you have a "smell" problem the dehumidifiers are hardly ever going to fix the issue.  You either need to seal your basement better from the inside or outside, remove the vapor barrier (that is probably just amplifying a bigger issue), and the easiest and most helpful thing is to increase airflow.  If you have windows trying to keep them open a lot.  If you have stairs that are near an outside door trying to get the airflow circulating.  I have even seen people run fan to their attic to recycle air in basements.


Seeks parts for antique wood venetian blinds

I know this route might be more expensive - but that seems like such a simple part to make. Any cabinet shop or furniture repair can do that.

If I were to do this myself with out a lathe - I would buy a wooden dowel rod from Big Box Hardware. Cut it down to about 3 inches. Drill out the center, and also countersink the center. Then I would use sand paper and a file to shape my own matching roller. Stain and be done with it.

Tedious yes sure - but I would have my roller.

If you have a small drill press all the better - because you could put the dowel in the Drill press and use a dremel tool to cut and sand as you have need and make it lickity split. I would say you should be done in about 30 minutes or so..

Below are not endorsements of products or services but provided as useful information..

There is also Habitat for Humanity which might have some vintage stuff - or antique shops.
Especially considering this:

Wooden Thread Spools

Or

Order custom made wooden roller.
Link to above in the open:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/258307687/wooden-roller?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=wooden%20rollers&ref=sr_gallery-1-16


By gas pipe, you mean the gasline--not the actual chimney, right? If so, that is likely steel pipe. It COULD be copper, but you'd be able to tell if that's the case. If it's a steel pipe, stainless steel wool should be fine to plug it.


Need help understanding amperage ratings for panels and sub panels

Part 1:

100% correct.

Part 2:

The way I think about it is this:

A 60A two-pole breaker - e.g., like you have in a main panel for the feeder to a subpanel - is not exactly 60A @ 240V. Rather, it is 60A @ 120V x 2. Each pole can, in theory, trip independently, but with 240V loads they would always trip together. With unbalanced 120V loads - e.g., 4 x 20A all on one leg - you can indeed end up with one leg overloaded and trip even though the other side is OK.

Remember, you are not limiting "how much power can go through the cable", you are limiting "how much current can go through each individual wire". Each wire is limited to 60A of current, with the total power, in this example, either 60A x 120V per leg or 60A x 120V x 2 for the two 120V circuits or 60A x 240V for a 240V circuit. All of which in the end are exactly the same.

Your calculations and interpretations are basically correct, it just gets a little confusing along the way.

This all relates, of course, to two key things:

As much as reasonably possible, 120V loads should be split between the two legs so that you can make the best use of the available circuits/breakers/etc. There is another small advantage, though it doesn't make much real difference - the neutral current is the difference between the hots. If you have 50A x 120V then your neutral carries 50A as well. If you have 25A x 120V x 2 then your neutral does nothing at all!
Panels and subpanels can be oversubscribed. In your example, a 60A panel could easily have 8 x 20A - 4 x 20A on each leg (and actually quite a bit more than that). That means that in theory if you plugged full power devices into everything - heaters on every circuit all on at the same time - then you could easily trip that subpanel breaker (and the same goes for the 100A main). But sizing is based on realistic expectations - and there are formulas and guidelines to follow. But some simple examples:

If you have air conditioning and electric resistance heat then it is a pretty safe bet that you won't run them at the same time, so only one (the larger) really counts.
You may have a bunch of 15A or 20A receptacle circuits in various rooms. Except for the kitchen (where you could have toaster, coffee maker, etc. all at once) most of the time only a few receptacles are in use at a time and most of those will typically be lighting (very low power with LEDs, but even incandescent might be only a few hundred watts on a 15A circuit), cell phone chargers, TVs, etc. - which might use anywhere from a few watts to a few hundred watts each. The big exception is someone with a workshop full of power tools, but most people don't have that. So a 15A or 20A circuit might have 6 or more receptacles - and that's OK as long as you don't use them all for high-power devices at the same time.
Lighting circuits are typically 15A or 20A. But even in the past (incandescent), the amount of light needed was far less than the circuit capacity. Today with fluorescent or LED a lighting circuit might use 100W or less for a large room.

So adding up the total capacity of all the circuits is important but does not directly determine the subpanel or main panel size.

In addition, as I have learned from the pros here, while the breaker in the main panel for the feeder to your subpanel is sized to match the wire (and the wire is therefore sized to fit your actual needs since larger costs more), the main breaker in your subpanel functions as a convenience shutoff switch and therefore does not need to be the same size. Going with your original example, the subpanel could have a 60A breaker in the main panel feeding it but in the subpanel itself the main breaker could be 100A (or more!) and that's OK because the ultimate protection will be provided by the 60A breaker in the main panel. If you use 60A in both then there is no guarantee which breaker will trip first or if they will both trip at the same time.


Could a steel beam span 24 feet for a pergola?

I wouldn't bother with an architect.

Hire a structural engineer if anyone.

You want a 24' long beam, probably two?  with just some minimal loading from open air beams that sit on the two 24'L beams?  A quick diagram would help.

24' is long but I've done wood PSLs 5.25"x11.75" that open air span more than that and support floor and roof loads.


I'm going to venture a guess here (at least until photos come). 2.5" isn't a pipe size so I'm going to go out on a limb and call it 3 inch that will be for your toilet. Regarding the bucket I'm going to guess that only a bottom half of the bucket is showing which means that there is a space in there to put a trap for a shower or tub. If the previous statements are correct then the one and a half inch pipe is really a 2"  which is a wet vent for your sink.

In the floor it would look somewhat like thiswww.doityourself.com


Bathroom vent through existing roof vent

We've got several things going on here:

This is a ridge-mounted, Slant-Back Roof Vent -- it's used to ventilate Attic air to the outside. It should not be used for double-duty for a Bath Fan exhaust. Warm moist Bathroom air will condensate on its underside and can cause moisture damage & mold on the roof sheathing.
As a Slant-Back Vent, the original photo shows it installed backwards. The slanted side is installed to the top to shed rain water; unseen in this photo is the screened bottom side (see attached photo).
As previously mentioned, most building codes require the Bath exhaust to be vented directly to the outdoors. Attic locations should use insulated duct to reduce condensation problems. The exhaust ducts can discharge through the roof, soffit or gable siding -- but a dampered Vent Hood should be installed as well.
If this installation is to be done by an average Homeowner or Handyman, I typically recommend a siding-mounted vent. Retrofit roof vent installations require proper interlacing with roof shingles (not just gobs of tar); a poorly done job will result in a roof leak.


You could possibly use a wall mounted toilet and snake the drain from the base of the wall drain to the floor drain.


Acceptable locations for junction boxes in a kitchen

Any of those should be fine.  The junction box has to remain accessible - that means you can't drywall over it or such but doesn't mean you can't park a major appliance in front of it.  Just put a blank cover plate over the box and call it good.


Cutler Hammer panel and whole house Generator

Separating neutral and ground on a Cutler Hammer panel is as simple as installing an accessory ground bar.  They sell those (now under the Eaton brand, but still marketed as CH or BR) and the panel should have holes already drilled and tapped for the mounting screws that are in the kit.

If for some reason yours does not have mounting holes that line up with screws on standard ground bars for your panel, you can physically mount it some other way that reflects good workmanship (NEC 110.12).

I am not the biggest fan of screws as a method to make electrical connections, so if the panel's metal chassis figures into grounding anythingv(like metal conduit leaving the panel), I recommend a burly grounding strap from ground bar to panel chassis, separate from the mounting screws.

Lastly, remove the grounding screw or strap from the neutral bar.  Right now the neutral is grounded to panel chassis, and you no longer want that.

Occam's Razor: install a subpanel

There's a better and less disruptive way to do all this.   You can fit a proper subpanel next to your main panel.  You then move the circuits you want supported from generator, into that subpanel.

If the generator is permanently installed and not GFCI, remove its neutral-ground bond and use some ingenious generator interlock hardware made by actual tier 1 panel maufacturers (so you're not paying top dollar for hacked up rubbish like Reliance switches). For instance a Siemens 16-space "subpanel as transfer switch" costs about $130 and is top shelf.

If you want to use a portable generator that you will be hauling away to other tasks, you will need to switch neutral. The same principle applies, but you put the 3-pole transfer switch immediately next to the subpanel.


How do you frame a wall around existing pipes and ducting?

I'm not sure how long these walls are going to be, but here is a common method using wood studs, even though I still think steel framing would be better in your situation.
First step is to secure 2X4's or 2X6's along a chalk line on the floor at wall placement position. This will be the first or two bottom plates. Transcribe location of obsticles onto this bottom plate using a laser or plumb bob. Lay out and scribe the corners, studs, jacks etc onto this plate. At this point you will know where conflicts with the pipes, vents and will be able to plan prebuilt wall sections around them. or areas where a horizontal needs to be added below the obsticle height to allow wall to be fitted. Now lay out your top and bottom plates against the now scribed secured bottom plate and transfer the layout marks to them. (Yes, there will be two bottom plates when you are done.)

Side note: using the fixed bottom plate allows easier and tighter fitting prefab walls to be lifted into place without the angle problem of lifting the wall and having to make the wall 3/4" short to compensate for the lift angle.

Now you can lay out the plates, studs etc and assemble the wall sections with a nail gun,or hammer (uggg) nailing studs through the bottom and top of the plates, so no toe nailing required. Because of your height, a rolling staging or scissor lift would be a great help. Lift the sections to vertical and slide them onto the pre-secured bottom plate. Flush them to this plate and nail the bottom.  Now plumb the wall and nail to the ceiling, being sure to check plumb every few feet.
This method will allow you to make several smaller wall sections and build around the pipes. Install horizontal nailers just below the pipes/vents etc.


Why does the hot water run cold at less than 'full throttle'?

Many new kitchen faucets use a single arm and a cartridge to control how much hot vs. cold water is released through the fixture. Sometimes, the cartridge can go bad as it wears out, causing the mixing process to not work correctly. Shower controls use a similar system. You may be able to get your landlord to replace the cartridge (a simple process for most major brands), solving your problem.

You might also try balancing the hot and cold water using the water shutoff valves under your sink. You can open the hot water valve all the way and then turn the cold water valve down some. This might help if you have significantly more cold water flow vs. hot for some reason.


You want the grade to be in the width, not the overall length of the patio. The fall should point in the direction away from the home. .01 × (width of the patio in inches) = the height difference. I/E: If the patio is 8' wide, 96 inches x .01 = .96 inches. So the height of one side needs to be one inch higher than the other.

To my knowledge there is no building code for fall requirements on a patio. 1% is a very shallow fall. I would grade it at 2% (1/4" per foot) for a better fall without it looking weird to the eye. 2" over an 8' span isn't going to be very noticeable.


What is this large pipe coming out of my roof?

Most likely an abandoned fireplace chimney, if evidence supports the theory that the bathroom under that area has been added recently. Otherwise they may have re routed a bathroom exhaust fan into it. Take the cage off and look down it with a flashlight.


Is it common for vertical joints to not be filled?

No this is not common.  In some areas it might even violate code as there might not be fire separation.

However to say does this mean anything structurally... who knows without full details of the building.  Unless you live in a third world country I doubt that there would be a building with more than 10 stories that relies on cinder blocks at all for support.  Most interior walls in high rises are made to be taken down and moved if needed.  Most buildings rely on exterior walls and key points usually in the center square of the building.

Why is there a gap in yours?  Maybe it is for expansion - but then this should have fire rated caulking.  Maybe the workers were lazy and knew it would be covered... who knows.  Should you be worried?  No.

Note:  You should not be worried about the building falling over.  However if there is smoke coming in yes you should be worried about both your health (air quality) and fire will spread faster (well I would gather that it isn't the fire itself, it seems the smoke from a fire could spread and be hazardous easily in your situation).


Older receptacles tend to lose their "grip" on the prongs of a plug. Many times this higher resistance connection creates a lot of heat. This is a VERY common problem with dryer receptacles for some reason.

I would definitely change the receptacle. Keep in mind, a 15A duplex receptacle is TWO 15A receptacles on a single device yoke. It is a 20A feed-thru device. So it is perfectly fine, safe and legal to use on a 20A circuit. A microwave would never be considered a continuous load so the 15A actual load is also fine, especially considering the 15A cord plug it has.

It is no problem to use a 20A receptacle, but there is NO benefit other than the prong configuration, unless of course you have appliances that have a 20A plug. In a home this is highly unlikely.

In high draw areas I like to suggest better quality spec-grade receptacles. They are made with stronger materials and have a much better grip on plugs. In my business I like to use them everywhere in fact. The couple of dollars difference is negligible in the long run.

My personal suggestion would be to change all the receptacles in the kitchen while you're at it and use GFI's at the beginning of the circuits for the countertop areas.


How to read the nameplate of an air conditioner?

that symbol and the 25A is the size of the fuse.

The fuse is rated for the starting current, the 11A is the current in normal running.

Edit after Tom Carpenter’s comment:
You should size the cables for at least 25A and a better capacity would not hurt if the cable run is long.


Seeking advice on how to rearrange existing breakers and add 2 circuits, including a 20A GFCI/AFCI breaker in a split-buss GE panel

This is a split bus aka rule-of-six panel.  They were originally developed because breakers over 60A were cost prohibitive (no longer true).  They are outlawed now, and are dangerous because nothing prevents you from overloading the service.
They were allowed when a load calculation was done that showed the house would not overload the service; however, when people add circuits they don't bother to do another load calculation, and that's the danger. Normally a large load like  the A/C would be put in the Rule of Six area; putting it in the Lighting area makes me wonder if they did a load calc and it went badly. Any idea what came out of that space?
GE and their double-stuff rejection system
GE has a funny way of doing double-stuff breakers.  All their bus stabs look like normal bus stabs, a flat horizontal blade maybe 3/8" to 1/2" wide.  However, on spaces enabled for double-stuff breakers, they have a vertical rod - I call it a "cruciform" for the way it crosses the bus stab.  The double-stuff (1/2" wide single and 1" wide 2-pole) clip onto this cruciform.
In 1966 NEC added "CTL" rules limiting the number of double-stuffs in a panel. They required mechanical keying to reject double-stuffs where not allowed, so most builders notched their bus-bars and came out with "CTL" breakers which would reject in a normal space. (as well as non-CTL breakers to support pre-1966 panels, haha, guess what everyone did).  GE simply omits the cruciform.  Which means, there's no way to trick a double-stuff where GE doesn't allow it.
In a split-bus aka "Rule of Six" panel, there can only be six breaker throws to de-energize the whole panel.  So there would be no earthly reason for GE to install the double-stuff-enabling cruciform in those spaces.
Now, this panel only supports four full-size 2-pole breakers in the "Rule of Six" section. You might think GE intends you to use three 1" wide 2-pole breakers per side.  Looking closely, it appears the cruciforms are in exactly the right place to support just that - note there is no cruciform on the top half of the top space, so you can't put a 1/2" wide 1-pole there. You'd have to leave that empty.
You can't run 2 120V circuits out to a shed, anyway
Rule 225.30 says you can only run one circuit to an outbuilding. The rule intends that be a feeder to a subpanel.  However, there are certain exceptions:

A different-voltage circuit is OK, and this is where I'll introduce you to the multi-wire branch circuit. This is a 120/240V circuit with 120V loads placed between one of the two hots and the shared neutral. You can also power 240V loads between the two hots (but the breaker must be 2-pole if you do that).
If one of the circuits is switched from the supply end, then it's OK.  So if you are hellbound and determined to have 2 independent circuits, find a believable pretense to put a switch on one. (e.g. so you don't have to put your shoes back on to switch off the forgotten shed lights).

Breaker strategies
One option is to get a full-size 2-pole 30A breaker, place it in the open position, and use it for the A/C.  This will require extending the A/C cables, but you can do that with normal (well, large red or tan) wire nuts.
That frees up the 2 double-stuff spaces for 2 thin breakers (or a 20A 2-pole for an MWBC).
Another option is just get two full-size 1-pole 20A breakers and put them in the Rule of Six area and use them for your new circuits. You still only have five throws to turn everything off, so that's legit. Nowhere is it written that circuits in the Rule of Six area must be 240V.

You could also get one 1/2" and one full-size breaker in that Rule of Six area, if that matches the current knockouts that are removed from the panel cover.

For that matter, you could put three 1/2" breakers in the Rule of Six area, because that will be only six throws.  Keep in mind for future, heh, expansion in this very full and obsolete/dangerous panel.

Any now-empty breaker knockouts need to be filled with a blanking plate - you can't have curious fingers finding bus bars.  I find those blanking plates to be expensive, hard to find and very flimsy - so I prefer to arrange panels so all holes are full of real breakers. Which are not flimsy.


What type of crawlspace setup do I have?

I have seen this done in our area to keep the pipes from freezing and the floors from being cold. On the homes that do this they usually plug the foundation vents for the winter. Many years ago electric heat was super cheap so this option was less expensive than insulating everything. Most places have gone back and insulated the floors and pipes then closed off the duct to save on heating cost


Allowed distance between service entrance and breaker box

The NEC simply says as close as practical. Some locations do impose an actual distance number. Most areas have a limit of 5-6 feet into the structure to the main panel/disconnect.

Your local authority/inspector will be the only one who can tell you for sure.


Wiring washer, dryer, tankless water heater

I think what you mean to say is you need a quadruplex 40/30.

The tankless would be fed with a #8/2 #6/2 to suffice the 33 amp requirement. ( black/white/ground ) unless for some reason it requires a neutral then #8/3 #6/3 ( Black/red/white/ground ).

The existing dryer 30 amp breaker would be replaced with the quadruplex.  The dryer #10 would connect to the 30 amp side, and the #6 would connect to the 40 amp side.

Note: The panel should indicate how many, if any, quadruplex it can allocate.  Also, the breaker obviously needs to match the panels manufacturer.


How do I install cabinets on a floating hardwood floor?

Is cutting out the flooring where the cabinets will be not an option?  You don't mention it, so maybe there's a reason, but that's the method that would get you the best attachment for your cabinets, while still allowing the flooring to float and move as it's designed.  You could make these cuts with a circular saw set to just the right depth.

For the peninsula, I believe cutting out the flooring is your only option.  If you try to attach it through the flooring, you're either going to 1) pull it too tight to the flooring so the flooring can't float, or 2) not fasten it tightly enough and it's going to creak and move every time someone leans on the counter.


Could there be asbestos in the thick brown paper / card backing above my popcorn ceiling?

Many times paper is set behind plaster , sometimes 15 lb felt, this did not have asbestos,
 if it is thicker ground & compressed paper that was used for a while in the 30’s and 40’s that stuff was easy to burn so it probably did not contain asbestos. To know for sure it would need to be tested, panel by encapsulated and then covered would make it safe if it was asbestos. I would treat any popcorn ceiling like asbestos as most did have it.


Can a garbage disposal handle waste from both a sink and a dishwasher?

Many disposals have a specific connection for a dishwasher. If yours has one you can use that, or if you haven't bought one yet, look for a model with that feature.

Note: This may no longer be up to code in your area: see Why does my dishwasher back up into the sink, but running the disposal allows it to drain?

That said, many dishwashers have macerators built-in, which is effectively the same thing. I'm not really sure how useful it is to have a disposal downstream anyways. A dishwasher has to pump the waste water up to the drain. If you have anything in there that the disposal would actually chop up, it's probably going to jam the dishwasher pump before getting to the disposal anyways. In fact, this is why dishwashers have strainers and built-in macerators to begin with.

If you're still intent on having the dishwasher go through the disposal, and you don't have a built-in macerator or a dishwasher inlet, then it's just a matter of physical space. Can you fit a connection for the dishwasher between the disposal and sink? (although again, note this may not be up to code anymore).

If I had to choose only one, I would definitely choose sink. Most dishwasher drain hoses are 5/8" -- anything that doesn't clog that isn't going to clog the 1 1/4" sink drain. (I'm not sure if there is some other motivation for doing this besides avoiding clogs, though?)


Both the DW4765 and DW4701 blades are listed by Dewalt as XP products.
More importantly is the difference in intended use.

The DW4765 is for use in a tile saw. This means it's designed for wet cutting where the temperature never gets very high because it is constantly water cooled. It is a little thinner and thus has a thin kerf.

The DW4701 is for use in an angle grinder. It is for dry cutting and thus can handle higher temperatures. This is achieved with the segments which allow better airflow for cooling. The cut will likely be by hand so the blade should be a little stiffer and thicker. This results in a wider kerf.


In which spaces can small-appliance branch circuits have "No Other Outlets"?

210.52(A) defines a scope of dwelling units
Consider a well-developed outdoor barbecue area.  It has a BBQ, a double sink, some countertops, maybe some other outdoor-rated appliances, etc.
Consider an office "break room" area with a reasonably competent kitchenette.
Consider a commercial restaurant's waitress alcove/island area, where salads are made, coffee is brewed, soups are doled out, etc.
All of these are out-of-scope for 210.52(A).  What Code is saying is that 210.52(B) does not apply in these locations; it only applies where 210.52(A) applies, i.e. inside dwelling units.

No Other Outlets is being overloaded to have 2 meanings at once.
You have to carefully read the context.
"No other outlets" as applicable to the mandatory circuit.
Take a garage.  You have a grandfathered garage with a 15A receptacle, opener and light circuit.  You develop the garage attic into an ADU, which voids the grandfathering and now the garage must be brought up to 2017 Code.  That requires one garage circuit, and and that one garage circuit may have no other outlets (i.e. they must all be in the garage).  However, Code is silent on existence of any other garage circuits. Those may exist and may serve other outlets.   So the 15A circuit can stay, and provide supplemental service beyond the mandatory.
"No other outlets" as applicable to every receptacle.
Take a kitchen.  Say you already have a 15A kitchen recep circuit that serves there, and outdoor outlet and a hallway outlet.  You must have at least two 20A kitchen recep circuits.  What about the 15A?  Nope, 210.52(B)(1) says "shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets".  That means every wall and floor recep outlet must be on one of those covered 20A circuits, which due to (B)(2) must be dedicated.  So that means the 15A circuit must stop supplying kitchen receps. It cannot be an optional third circuit.


Where to place shower curtain rod in relation to the tub?

My preference is to line it up with either the outside edge or center of the tub so any decorative curtain outside the shower hangs nicely. The waterproof curtain on the inside can just be draped over the inside edge of the tub, and this gives you more space in the shower.


Radiator Fins in Hot Water Baseboard - Basic Question

This is a frame challenge - the problem isn't so much how to fix the heating system, which I suspect will be far from a DIY job, but rather how to improve the comfort level in the apartments.
You have a identified a likely real source of the problem: the windows are very drafty so warm air leaks out/cold air leaks in faster than the heating system can heat the room.
Replacing windows is generally very expensive.
Insulating the windows is generally very inexpensive. My recommendation is something like this:

There are plenty of kits of this type available. Basically they have a plastic film, a frame (e.g., special tape that you put around the edges) of some sort and you use a hair dryer to heat-shrink the plastic to fit.
This is not a perfect solution. But it can work fairly well because (a) if positioned correctly it can cover over actual cracks (e.g., window doesn't close 100%) and (b) the dead air between the plastic and the window glass acts as an insulator. It is easily removable, so if your landlord won't pay for it then you can do it yourself and be able to remove it when you leave (not to reuse, just to avoid a damage deposit). It is clear, so you still get light through the windows.
Your landlord should be willing to pay for this, because if it gets the apartments to the point where the heat does not have to run 24/7, that will have immediate payback on the gas/electric/oil bill, in addition to providing you with a more comfortable place to live.


Can an existing furnace flue be used to vent bathroom exhaust fan

I see no problem with using the old furnace flue for the bathroom vent as long as that vent has no other connections such as off to a gas water heater.

The 16' rise of the old furnace flue can represent a challenge for a small bathroom fan to push air through. The column of air presents a back pressure that the fan must overcome in order to be able to produce positive upward flow out of the flue pipe. A small capacity fan may be able to cause air flow to occur but it may be way less that what is needed to adequately vent your bathroom.

So I would suggest selecting a bathroom fan that has a greater than normal flow capacity than would be needed for your installation under normal circumstances.


Yes, tri-light controls normally happen via a switch that is right at the lamp socket. As such, you use a special socket and don't wire them any differently than a normal socket.


Can I Notch a Double 2x12 Floor Joist Down to 2x6 Size (5.5 inches) if I need a 2x8 (7.25) per My Local Span Table

It’s not clear the spacing of the 2x12’s nor how many 2x12’s you’d like to notch. However, I’ll make a few assumptions and you can let me know if I’m wrong.

The Code requires a Live Load of 20 psf for uninhabited attics and 30 psf for habitable attics. (See ICC Table 1607.1) Normal living spaces are required to have 40 psf.

I’ll assume 20 psf Live Load (furniture, people, etc.) plus 10 psf for Dead Load (subfloor, joists, ceiling below, etc.) for a total load of 30 psf.

I’ll also assume your 2x12 joists are 16” on center spanning 12’ and notched as shown in your sketch.

Depending on the species and grade of lumber, a 2x6 at 16” on center spanning 12’ (the notch essentially reduced the 2x12’s to 2x6’s) can support about 37 psf (live and dead load).

Therefore, your double 2x6’s at 16” on center spanning 12’ can easily support a Code required 30 psf (live and dead load).

Bearing is adequate with the joists resting on the 2x4 top plate.

I’d be very careful of your vertical cut. Do not over cut and make a notch into the remainder of the joist.

The weak link in this design is the bearing end. If the notched end piece can be “racked” it could split off and become detached. I’d insure that these joists do not move laterally by carefully extending the subfloor to the adjacent walls so it can’t move.

If you are going to use the space for living space or if you’re going to store heavy items (like stacks of books, etc.) then my analysis is not correct. (I’d put my Christmas decorations in that corner.)


What kind of saw would I use to cut a shape out of a panel?

You'd want a hand held jig saw

Or a stationary band saw

or a scroll saw

You could also do it with a hand held coping saw

But it would be alot of work and difficult to get good square, smooth results with the coping saw.

It takes some practice & skill, and/or a good bit of sanding & filing to get those nice smooth cuts with either tool.  You'll also need a drill & bits to drill out the tighter corners - either of the tools, with the possible exception of the scroll saw, will have some trouble cutting some of those smaller radius inside corners without drilling it out first.


Ideas for plugging a hole in granite vanity

Find a sink that you like with a slightly larger dimension and cut the granite to fit. With the right tools it's very easy and obviously you need to be careful. The only expensive item you need is a grinder. The others are a big sponge, bucket, diamond grinder wheel and water. It's a bit messy so I'd do it outside.

1 get your sink.

2 confirm that it is suitable.

3 measure and mark by scratching in the surface of the granite

4 on a flat surface shimed up for blade clearance, grinder in hand and sponge in the other. Wet soak the sponge and use it to keep the blade wet as you grind. (if you get help a hose will work)

Cut in from the opening to the line all around then cut on the line to knock off the pieces.

5 check for fit, trim if necessary and clean up.

I've done this before and it took about 20 minutes to do the actual cutting. I'm sure you can find videos online.


In a one-way dimmer, can C and L1 terminals be swapped?

The answer is swapping the line and load may cause problems depending on the electronics. Many dimmers use SCR's to control the output. These use a small voltage from the line side to turn on and off the scr at a very rapid rate. Some of the newer dimmers have more electronics and don't care which side the line is on but most do. Depending on the model it may work fine or not at all.  Note an SCR is a silicon controlled rectifier.


What is this noise coming from my gas furnace?

Assuming no sledgehammers were used, you could be hearing a sheet metal change shape, triggered by temperature.  It will likely be a large flat area of metal somewhere...


Is a 100 amp transfer switch adequate for a 15KW generator?

Installing a 200A transfer switch will do you no good unless you're planning on buying a 48KW generator soon. Your transfer switch is suitable.  Your generator cannot produce 100A so you need to be watchful of what loads you switch on, careful that neither phase exceeds 62.5A and that the two phases are in balance within the limits in your generator documentation.   If you don't do that your generator can brown out or stall.
If you use the 100A transfer switch with 100A breakers you need to use a feed wire suitable for 100A between the generator, switch, and panel.   You could use the 100A transfer switch with 60A breakers, then you can use lighter feed wiring and you'll pop the breakers before browning out.  Even then you have to watch the balance of the phases.


The shim is not visible, so you could make your own shim out of cardboard -- more than one layer, if needed.


What do you call the fastener that's like a metal zip tie with a screw?

This particular type is a band hose clamp, worm screw, stainless steel. In Britain a Jubilee clip.

316 stainless steel worm gear hose clamp Grainger


How can I remove adhesive/glue from bricks?

Yeah, that's a tough one. You don't want to damage the brick, but the adhesive has already done that.
What I would suggest would be an angle grinder to flatten the adhesive, and then painting the bricks. If painting them all isn't ideal (i.e. you want bricks, not a painted wall), pick some brick-like colors and paint the ones that are damaged. As long as the paint is matte, it shouldn't be terribly noticeable in the room. People will chalk the color variations up to the brick schema.


Preventing further water damage to hardboard siding

In my area, Masonite siding was extremely popular during the 70's and 80's. They all have met the same fate as what you are experiencing.  Your's doesn't look too bad yet, but once it starts, the bubbling and swelling will continue. The only way I know to slow the process is to remove as much loose paint and disintegrated paper material as possible, prime with a sealing primer like Bullseye pigmented shellac, or Kilz. The goal is to be sure you have sealed as much of the affected surface area as possible. Use two coats of primer if you want a better seal. Get up behind the slabs as far as possible.   Then overcoat with your color paint. Try to do this when the conditions have been dry for a few days and the siding is as dry as possible. If it is damp or saturated with water, like I have seen many times, painting is a waste of time, it will not stay and the swelling will continue.  Keep a good coat of paint on any areas of wear or where chipped or peeling. You cannot eliminate the damage without replacement, but you can slow it down.


Thermostat upgrade delivers heat instead of cooling

Move the orange wire on the troubled thermostat from O to B
What you are seeing here are fairly classic signs of getting your system's reversing valve control backwards.  In order to do their fancy tricks of being able to heat your house as well as cool it, heat pump systems need to be able to make the indoor and outdoor coils "swap places", and this is done using a special four-way solenoid valve called a reversing valve.
Sadly, there are two different conventions for the way the reversing valve works, and no clear mapping between them and thermostat wire color codes.  Most systems operate where the reversing valve needs to be energized to put the system into cooling mode, which is conventionally marked by the use of an O terminal designation on the thermostat and in system wiring diagrams.  Oftentimes, this corresponds to an orange wire in the thermostat cable, but different cables may have different color codes, and fat cables may be used differently by different installers.
However, Rheem and Ruud units are a bit different; they require their reversing valves to be energized in order to get the system to heat.  This is denoted by the use of a "B" terminal designation on the thermostat and system wiring diagrams; however, the dark blue wire that is intended to be used for this is rarely available in thermostat cables, so its often wired using an orange or brown wire instead.
To add to the confusion, many electronic heat pump thermostats have a single reversing valve output, denoted as O/B and configured for correct operation through the setup menus, instead of having separate O and B outputs available, as in a mechanical heat pump thermostat.  In your case, your experiments with the jumpers and mode settings show that your system is configured with a reversing valve that must be energized to heat.  Since your new thermostat has separate O and B terminals, fixing this is a matter of moving the orange wire over; on your old thermostat, there was a setting that had been changed to do the same thing.


No your roof is not strong enough for this. Most roofs are designed to take the area's snow load which is USUALLY between 20-50psf. Even if the space was a porch or occupiable roof it'd only be designed for 40psf on top of that. What you have is 108 psf, there's no way you're roof was designed for this.


How can I wire this switched GFCI combo outlet with two neutrals and two hot wires?

If you look carefully at your old outlet, you’ll see that there is embossed on the outlet “line” near one pair and “load” near the other.
The line wires are the power feed and the load wires run onto more outlet and/or lights that are also protected by the GFCI.
If you want, you can connect the load wires to the load terminals of the new GFCI. However, then whatever is there will also be controlled by the switch.
To avoid controlling those by the switch, you’ll need to connect the two pairs together. However, that will remove the protection from whatever is downstream and you’ll need to add one or more additional GFCIs to replace that protection.
You may want the trip off the current GFCI to see what else loses power. It could be another bathroom or even garage or outdoor outlets.


The only suggestion I have is if you decide to use aluminum flashing to protect the belly boards, extend the flashing down to the depth of your path and utilize it as the edging shown in the video you're basing your project on.


A capacitor or a battery will both work. The idea is to maintain a device that stores electrical power to be delivered after a loss of the main power.

My first attempt would be to use a rechargeable battery. An appropriately sized 12V battery, or combination of lower voltage batteries connected in series, will be able to power the fan. Your fan only requires 0.011Ah to run for the 3 minutes stated. Most batteries should be kept above 50% discharge. So plan for 0.022Ah or larger.


I went to turn on my air compressor which is 240v & the draw of it dimmed everything & the waterwell pulled power from everything in garage on startup

This is probably a classic supply line problem. If the pump is on an opposite leg from the lighting, it's "using up" limited neutral capacity due to a poor connection Dangerous. If the pump is on the same leg as the lighting, well (no pun intended), it's taxing a bad hot connection.  But I doubt that because the pump probably wouldn't even run.  As Ed, 3ph and Harp have repeatedly said here, this situation sounds like an open or compromised neutral feed.  Dangerous for everybody and everything. You're going to need to take measurements in various panels to make sure you have 240 across the hots and 120 to neutral and ground.  Just recently it was suggested in a situation like this to first contact the power company as they will come out for free to make sure their connections are solid.   Let us know what you find, we all learn from that.


How can I enlarge a doorknob bore with common tools?

With the paddle bits or the hole saw bits that you have drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood that is the correct size for the knob you are trying to install. It would be good if this scrap was at least 3/4" thick.

If you have clamps - clamp this scrap with the hole in it over the hole in the door and use it as a guide to then drill the correct size hole in the door.

You didn't hear this from me - If you don't have clamps you might be able to just hold the guide tight and drill carefully. Maybe a helper would be good.

You could also try the sanding drums - it doesn't have to be pretty since the knob will cover things up, but they look cheap and might wear out before you get to where you need to be.

You can do it. Go for it. Persist. Don't forget your safety glasses.


Those ducts are not that dirty. The bottom picture shows what looks like dirt in the bottom of the duct but the sides and top are still shiny. The duct in the top picture is the dirtiest. The insides of these ducts are made of rigid insulation , not sheet metal. First and the cheapest possible solution is to place charcoal briquets (not the self start kind) any where you can inside the ducts, for a couple weeks. If there is a spot where you could place a netted bag full of charcoal in a duct, do this also. Last idea, Home Depot and Lowes both sell a cut to size charcoal combination filter and charcoal filter called "the web sbsorber", and costs about $10.00, that can be mounted in a filter rack or "made to fit" elsewhere near the blower. The green filter, filters the air and the charcoal takes out the smells. I have been using these for years since my wife has a nose that detects odors form 1000 feet. I replace the filter every 3 months and run my fan 24/7. This works for me. BY the way, We moved into an apartment 20 years ago while our house was being built and I did the charcoal in ducts and netted bags in the furnace housing to get rid of the musty smells.


In electrical terms, what is the definition of a "disconnect"?

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 1 General
Article 100 Definitions
Disconnecting Means. A device, or group of devices, or
other means by which the conductors of a circuit can be
disconnected from their source of supply.

This can include a switch, a circuit breaker, a cord and plug connection (sometimes), or a group of the aforementioned devices.
There are other stipulations within the code that dictate how these devices can, and cannot be used. But at the core of it, any device that can disconnect the conductors of a circuit from their source of supply, is a disconnecting means.
In the context of a separate building, typically either circuit breakers or a switch type device will be used.


Green wirenuts with a hole in the tip are stupid.

You're not supposed to stick one of the wires in the top. You're supposed to stick all the wires in the bottom, and one of the wires is 9" longer than the others and is supposed to stick through to let you ground one more thing.

What does this mean? You're supposed to strip about 18" of Romex sheath off, and then cut 9" off all wires but the ground wire.  So you are wasting nearly a foot of Romex.  The logic is you are supposed to use the cutoff wires as pigtails later.  Meh.

What is pictured is a perfect use case for it, though, as it already has 6 ground wires incoming and 3 switches to also deliver grounds to.  Without tricks, you'd need to put 9 grounds under a wirenut, (plus one for the box). They don't make 10-wire nuts, so you'd need to be split into 2-3 wirenuts with a pigtail between them.  This latter approach is exactly what I would do.


What tests can I perform to figure out if a wire is my Grounding Electrode Conductor?

I was taught to step back and take a good look at what I was trying to accomplish. The two reasons for grounding are:

To limit voltages caused by lighting or by accidental contact of the supply conductors with conductors of higher voltage.
To stabilize the the voltage under normal operating conditions (which maintains the voltage at one level relative to ground, so that any equipment connected to the system will be subject only to that potential difference).

That's right out of the Handbook.

Personally I can't think of a better grounding electrode that a metal well pipe sunk over 30' in the ground, and even though some of the system is possibly not exactly code (the #10 ground) any ground is better than no ground. I think if I could verify that the grounding conductors that you mentioned were actually part of the grounding electrode conductors, then I would make any necessary corrections and use it. You are allowed to tie grounding electrode conductors together other than the panel so long as they maintain a single point of ground.

One final comment, reading and studying NEC Article 210 all these years, I believe that saying there is redundancy in the grounding system is from the department of redundancy department (joke).

Hope this helps and good luck.


Can a washer and dryer be next to a water heater?

There should be no problem locating two gas burning appliances close together as long as you have proper ventilation. The reason your manual says not to put two items is a closet is that they may create excessive heat when used together. As long as you have good spacing, good venting and a source of combustion air, you will be fine.


Why does my outlet have two white wires on the neutral side and one "neutral" wire is hot?

You could be dealing with 1/2 switched receptacles. 1 part of the receptacle is controlled by a wall switch that will allow table lamps and etc to controlled by that wall switch. My whole house is wired that way. Half the receptacle is wired always hot and the other is controlled by a switch. Check it out.


Is it possible to be electrocuted from a properly functioning GFCI circuit?

Yes you can be electrocuted even with an operating GFCI. A GFCI will only trip if current goes from the hot and does not return on the neutral. That means it will trip if you stick a fork into the hot and jump into the bathtub / touch the fridge while holding it (because the current on the hot is NOT seen on the neutral - the power is escaping through the water or fridge chassis to ground).

A GFCI will not trip if you grab one fork in each hand and respectively stick one fork into the hot and another into the neutral (because all the current on the hot is also seen on the neutral). At that point, you're relying on the current operated circuit breaker, which will only trip once the current exceeds its rating (which it may or may not do while going through your relatively high-resistance body).

GFCI's limit shock to a low level, fail often, and are a good supplement (defense in depth). http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/gfis.htm


Help identifying a plastic pipe at the base of the house

I don't know what is the pipe is, but the safe way is to extend the pipe to the outside of the concrete steps. You might want to wrap the embedded pipe in felt paper so it wouldn't adhere to the concrete in case you need to re-expose it.


Where is clicking noise coming from in kitchen

Pipes expanding and contracting with changes in temperature can make noises. Hot water pipes in particular heat up and cool down regularly.


Main floor fireplace protruding into basement

Yes you can notch them.  No I wouldn't pour ashes down the basement anymore with wood walls.

A better option is just get rid of vent so someone doesn't accidentally use it.  I would close it from above and just take out the pieces.  We might need to know more about how it is made though.


How to adjust strike that’s too small for metal jam?

Strike plates are rarely proprietary to the door knob itself. Most are the same size, some slightly different in size or screw hole placement but the catch of the door knob should fit in the catch hole  of all of them if they are lined up right.
Since you have metal door jamb it is not easy to modify your jamb.
Try using the old strike plate, it should work just fine.
Credit to Mazura for thinking of it first.


i have a 220v well pump is it ac or dc that i should set my tester on when it goes out

220v to a well pump is AC. Such a high voltage delivered to a home would never be DC. In fact, DC of any voltage, except low voltage lighting for example, in a home would be rare; maybe unheard of.


Is American Cherry wood flooring durable enough for a kitchen and living room?

Cherry is definitely not a real soft wood, and not as hard as oak, but a fine choice. It has been popular for flooring and cabinets for quite some time. I looked at the link for the brand you are considering. This brand, as well as many others, come with a fantastic pre-finish that really helps protect the wood with minimal maintenance. I would not hesitate in using it for your application. As with any wood flooring in an area subject to accidental water spills, be sure to pick up any spills quickly and not let it sit.


Is it soft enough that your  nails will pull out? If your nails won't hold, you need to replace soft sections with OSB or plywood. Since you're covering the wall, it won't need to be pretty.

Follow manufacturer instructions regarding vapor barriers.


How to repair broken drywall (gypsum exposed)

If just the paper on the surface is broken you can fill the gouge and paint over it. If the sheetrock is broken and falling off it is better to cut a section out. I find the closest stud on either side and cut the sheetrock down the center of the studs, cut a new piece to fit and screw it in at the edges of the new piece and the original area cut off then tape & texture to match and repaint.


Can I terminate ah HVAC condensate drain line through a soffit?

An A/C system in an attic usually has two condensate lines. One is the Primary line. The other is a Secondary line. The primary is usually ran to a main plumbing drain. The secondary line is ran to a Conspicuous spot. A spot that is EASILY seen. If the Main line plugs up, then the "overflow" secondary line will start to drip. this is to let the homeowner know there might be an issue with the the condensate or with the coil itself. If this is the case I would have a Tech come take a look at the system.

The secondary line is a safety device to help keep condensate liquid from leaking into the structure of the home.

Hope this helps.


can I use a thick coating to fill the gaps between planks on wood deck?

I have installed membranes underneath decks and ran them to gutters to provide an under deck patio space.  To answer your question, no you can't do that - for the easiest reason - because it won't work and your guests will get wet.  And for a hard reason, it will tear up your deck with wood expanding and warping due to pressure or wood rotting due to standing water.

I would ask a follow up question that asks possible ways to divert water, so that people can answer that.


Can quick-drying mud be used on the same drywall joints where slow-drying mud was used?

In addition to the things @Steve Jackson mentioned in his comment, the quick-drying mud (called setting compound) is also much harder to sand than the slower drying-type compound, which makes it not such a great choice for your final coats where you're going to be doing the most sanding.  Pros use it because they're able to apply it so well that it requires little or no sanding, and it saves them a ton of time.  In my opinion, non-pros (including myself) do best to reserve it for those couple of joints that are wider than they should be and call for stronger compound that doesn't shrink.

Also, with drying compound the later coats will take less time to dry just because they're thinner, so it's not going to delay your project as much as you might think after waiting for that first thicker coat to dry.


Does an old photo frame need to be sanded before painting?

You should give the old paint a light sand to provide a “key” so the new paint will cover well. a fine grade sandpaper is all that is needed.
A light sand is just enough to see gentle scratch marks in the surface and not heavy enough to go through into the layer beneath.
If you don’t then when you put the new paint on it may not cover easily or when it dries it can chip or peel off.


See:
http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/wind_ac_troubl.htm
or
Try searching the internet for "repair air conditioner" or "appliance repair,"  or "window air conditioner repair."

If the compressor starts, but then shuts off, it may be overheating, caused by a blocked tube.  A thermal overload device cuts off the electricity to the motor.  When it cools down enough, it will close again (like a thermostat) and allow the compressor to run again until it overheats again.

If the tube is leaking, it will blow bubbles (even very slowly) when you apply soapy solution on the tube where you think it is leaking. If the refrigerant gas has completely leaked out, it may not blow any bubbles. If the compressor will not run, it will not pressurize the refrigerant gas to force it out through the leak.

When the compressor does not start at all, you may still hear a humming sound, which means that electricity is running through the coils in the compressor motor, but it won't rotate.  This can be caused by a faulty starter capacitor.  The purpose of this capacitor is to allow the starter coil to "kick" the coils out of magnetic alignment and allow the running coils to take over.  Turn it off right away to prevent overheating.

I replaced a capacitor in one of my air conditioners, and it worked again.


Can you crimp a tubular lug without a crimper plier?

Now that I know the wire in question is in a main distribution panel from the meter to the main lugs, any crimp must be done with the proper tool and dies. This will require maybe a ton of pressure and absolutely no shortcuts would be advised.  Also note that this type of work usually requires the sign off and supervision of a Master Electrician.  Check with your local electrical utility for inspection and sign off requirements.  Please be careful, this is potentially  extremely dangerous and a great risk of fire if not done properly.


How should I store leftover latex paint?

Your best bet is to transfer it to containers you can 100% fill and seal absolutely.

It needs to be stored near room temperature, don't leave it out in the garage to freeze.

The #1 threat on modern latex paint is mold and fungus growing in the paint. That will result in very stinky paint that is very hard to deal with (it often defies sealcoating, and will ultimately need to be removed along with all the sealcoats that didn't work). The stink is obvious after the fact, but when you're starting to paint, it can be hard to tell from the stink you expect from paint. That is why I get new latex paint for every job.

Mold and fungus now thrive in paint; they didn't before, because the allowable VOC content was high enough to make sure nothing would live in the paint can. VOCs have been pushed down to near zero to improve air quality in cities, particularly Los Angeles.


CFL and LED bulbs differ from the classic incandescent bulbs because they both have electronics inside them to make them work.  If they behave odd at all, those electronics should be the first thing to suspect.  Just replace the bulb and see if the problem goes away - no need to jump to conclusions of faulty wiring.

I've had CFL bulbs die in a few days, and I've also had them last years (still working now!).


How do I stop water from coming out of the dispenser on the door of my refrigerator?

Sounds like the valve is broken.  You'll have to locate the shutoff valve, and turn it off there for now.

Pull the fridge out, and look for a valve behind it.  If you can't find one, you'll have to look elsewhere (basement, crawlspace, etc.). It's common for fridges to be fed using saddle valves, so you might want to start looking for that first.

You should be able to find replacement parts online, but you'll have to know the make and model of the fridge.


Should I use push-to-connect fittings for PRV installation?

SharkBite and other similar self-sealing insertion products are deemed reliable for long-term use (SharkBite are actually guaranteed for 25 years). They're tried and true at this point, having been used for quite a few years. Of course, performance depends on your technique. It's important to de-burr and de-flare the pipe end.

The fact that you're installing a PRV isn't really relevant. Whether it's appropriate depends on your usage scenario and personal preference. Do you have space to work with this type of fitting? Are you willing to spend the money on them?

SharkBite connectors can be removed with proprietary tools or DIY methods. Whether that's a good strategy is entirely your prerogative.