Should I be worried about this gap in electrical conduit?

I see 3 problems:

The gap, as you noticed.
One of the conductors' insulation is damaged (I think - it's not obvious from the picture)
That's EMT, which is not a good choice for burial. The couplings are not strong enough (as you can see) and they're not waterproof. The tubing can rust away below ground. It is technically allowed, though, per NEC 358.10.

I'd recommend replacing it with PVC, which is very durable and easy to work with. If you do this, I suggest oversizing the conduit a couple sizes, to make pulling the wires easier and to leave room for future upgrades. And while you're at it, put a subpanel in the garage.


You have 2 completely different circuits in this box

And you were saying "the breaker"?  There are 2 breakers involved.

The two circuits most be totally kept separate by a "Chinese wall". Nothing must cross between them. Seriously.  Note that as pictured, nothing does.

Safety ground, those bare wires, may do so (hey, this could've been a metal box).  But neutral must not.

I'm a big fan of marking wires.  So I've gone ahead in Photoshop and "marked" the various wires by their purpose/function.

Left circuit

Black is always-hot from the breaker and onward to other loads.
Blue is switched-hot to something (don't know which).
Gray neutrals in  the back (they're white, just dimly lit) are neutral for this circuit.
The neutral wire nut crosses the "line", but it's insulated, so no big deal.

Right circuit

Red is always-hot from the other breaker.
Orange is a switched-hot to a load.
Yellow is a switched-hot to another load.
White is the neutrals for this circuit.

A switch switching the yellow wire needs to use the red hot.
A switch switching the orange wire needs to use the red hot.
That's precisely why the red hot has 2 pigtails.

A switch switching the blue wire uses the black hot.

If a "smart switch"/dimmer/timer/motion sensor/whatevs needs a neutral, then it needs to  grab the neutral which is partnered to the hot it is using.  For instance a smart switch on the yellow wire, also grabs red, and the partner neutrals to those are in the right bundle.

No Exceptions.   I don't care if the wire nut is "full" or the wire reaches better. No exceptions.  It's not an arbitrary rule, it prevents house fires, and maintainers from getting shocked. GFCI or AFCI protection devices won't work if the rule is broken.

Since the cables will not have changed how they enter the box, you should be able to turn the diagram into actual tape markings on your actual wires. All the colors except orange and gray are sold in a $4 5-pack of colored electrical tape.

This, and knowing which neutrals to use, should make short work of any switch installaions.


Will a thin or thick cutoff angle grinder wheel last longer?

Cutting disks should be thin. Grinding disks are thicker. Thicker disks means removing more material, which takes more time. Typical disks in Europe is 1mm thick, and I'd categorize a 1/8" (3.7mm) as a hybrid, usable for both cutting and grinding, but not excellent at either.

A thinner disk also leads to less heating in the material cut, as less energy is deposited.

In addition the disk should be made for the material you're working with. Different materials behave differently.


What is this vertical metal pipe in my backyard? old well? septic?

Since the pole is so thick and there's only one of them, it could have been the base of a satellite dish - like one of the old 8' dishes (big, not sure of exact measurements).

The height is about right for that, and it's kinda short for a clothesline.

It filling with water is just from the rain.  I've never seen anything plumbing or well related that looks like that.


Installing a pet door - no ideal location - support beam question

The image you provided from the internet is the typical solution. You state concern of the king stud for the window framing being too close to the exposed stud in your included photo to add an additional jack stud for the header for your dog door. The addition of a jack only narrows the opening one and a half inches. You need to determine the required rough opening for the pet door. If the rough opening is not at least 3 inches less than the current width between the two outside studs , you will need to get a smaller dog door , a smaller dog, or both! Good luck.


Finishing a rough-surface wall in bedroom

That wall surface material looks like it is the backing of some older type wall covering that had a mesh material for adding strength or glue retention.
It is also possible that you are looking at the original wall covering itself that may be a straw or grass material that was woven into a mat and then glued to the wall in sheets.
A zoomed in closeup of your picture reveals that the wall covering is a grass or straw material that was woven with thin vertical threads. It is also clear that it was painted over!!

If that mesh material is covered with paint it will be very difficult to remove. If it is not painted over it may just be possible to lightly spray the wall with a mist of hot water from a squirt bottle to see if the old wall covering glue will soften. As it softens you should be able to scrape carefully with a "putty knife" and wipe away the excess glue with a sponge rinsed frequently in warm water.
A painted over surface like that would entail a lot more work. There are several possible alternatives:

Remove the wall materials completely down to the studs and apply a new wall surface using drywall. This will finish down smooth after taping and sanding.
Try installing a new thin layer of drywall over the existing surface. This may require smoothing off any bigger bumps in the old surface. Any electrical switch and outlet openings may require box extensions to be installed. Also if that wall has any windows or door openings there may need to be adjustment of the trim. Going the route leaves you with a fresh new surface to finish similar to the first option.
Another possible scheme is to do some scraping and rough sanding of that existing surface to smooth out any large bumps and then use a skim coat of drywall mud to smooth out the surface. I have used a similar process to smooth out a textured ceiling and wall and found that skimming works best if you take the smoothing in repeated steps of mud application and then sanding and scraping once the mud is dry. A skim coating leaves a relatively soft material on the wall and it is a good idea to come back afterwards and paint it with two to three coats of good quality primer paint.


What is this weird splotchy dust growing under my table?

I would check for sources of water leakage or excessive humidity in the room it appears to be some sort of mold and based on what you told me about what led to its appearance it sounds even more like some kind of mold.


Easy. The bog-standard way of provisioning 400A service to a residence is to fit dual 200A panels.  Because 200A gear is readily available at sane cost (e.g. $120/panel) in the consumer space, whereas true 400A gear requires you go into industrial-tier arcana, with industrial-tier pricing (i.e. nobody blinks at $3000/panel).
In your case, from the equipment and wiring used, and the breakers, it's obvious that they ran two feeders to your house.  One of the feeders comes straight off utility and feeds one 200A panel.  The other feeder comes via the transfer switch and feeds the other 200A panel.
If the installers knew what they are doing, they were careful to put loads you'd likely to want on generator on the generator-enabled panel.
400A service to houses is usually for things like 140A of heat pump emergency heat or 180A of on-demand water heater. Those few huge loads would be in the non-generator panel, since powering them is hopeless with a generator that isn't Cat yellow.
So you should be "all set"; just tie the generator in at the ATS and all the right circuits will have power available.


How can I remove craft acrylic paint that has been mixed with silicone oil from multiple surfaces?

If the spill has already dried it would be easiest to use a putty knife and scrap off as much as possible (for all surfaces). There will probably be some residual paint left, but by removing some through scraping it will be easier to clean with a fluid.
Once the scraping is done use a cleaning fluid such as lacquer thinner on the porcelain and tile surfaces. They won't be affected by the solvent. Use a bristle brush or terri-cloth to rub the spot away.
To clean the fiberglass surface try this product:
Finally for the painted wall surface it may be simpler to touch-up paint the the spilled spots after lightly sanding them. If not you'll have to use a solvent such as the lacquer or Goo-Gone. This will dull the paint surface so unless it won't be noticeable you may end up painting anyway.


After replacing pressure tank water stops completely for several minutes at a time

Pressure tanks don't develop pressure they hold pressure and the air chamber is there to push the water out of the tank that is stored there reducing the number of on off cycles on the pump providing a more uniform pressure at the taps. It sounds like your pump may be the weak link if your pressure switch is turning on prior to running out of water and it still takes 3-4 minutes to get water, the check valve or foot valve in the pump may be leaking and it takes that long to refill the pipe to the tank, I have seen this more often with jet pumps than submersible pumps but it can happen to both. First verify the pressure switch is turning on where you expect, if it is I believe your next step is checking for a bad check valve/ foot valve if your flow is good once water makes it to the tap.


How to utilize empty electrical boxes in drywall

There should be a conduit back to the main electrical panel. California building code now requires garages to have the boxes and conduit installed to provide 240 V 40 A for electric car charging. (Seeing that you live in CA from your profile)


Are there devices to find pipes in walls?

Basically the tool you are looking for is some kind of Wall Scanner

These things are basically made primarily to help you prevent drilling into pipe and wires. A wall scanner is great for finding pipes and wires in the wall along with finding wall studs.


How can I protect my underground sprinkler PVC pipe from tree roots?

PVC pipe is the most common pipe used for sprinklers, but in areas that require a lot of bends, there is also something known as "funny pipe".

Funny pipe example

This flexible pipe is not the same as drip irrigation pipe.  It is thicker and a slightly different material.  Some brands are UV resistant and it can be used above ground in flower beds or in shallow areas where it may get uncovered.

Tree roots may still kink this pipe over time, but the should not break it because it will just bend and flex out of the way.


Why won't my Levitron Z-Wave dimmer switch turn the lights off?

From what you described and showed, and assuming that it was just a regular single pole switch you replaced that worked fine before, the wiring does look correct (though I'd skip the extra black pigtail wire that goes between the white and orange wire nuts).

Sounds like the switch itself is defective, and the best course of action would be to exchange it where you purchased it. Remember, these things have a fair bit of electronics in them, so it can happen. Sorry for your luck.


8 Foot T12 Flourescent ballast Requirements

The common 8' fluorescent tube is an F96T12 and has 1/4" steel nubs on both ends of the tube.  They take 1 wire per tube end.

You need to look on the ballast at the list of tubes it supports.  If that tube is not on it, then it won't work.

Also, if the ballast diagram calls for 2 wires per lamp end, it cannot support F96T8 which obviously has only 1 wire.  So most of your stash can be immediately excluded.

Also be aware that most ballasts for 8' fluorescents are not the same "form factor" (package mounting bolt positions) as 4' tubes.


Is underlayment necessary in a room over a garage?

A flexible underlay will compact when walked on. This helps if your floor is slightly imperfect (it is) and people walk on the tongue-and-groove connections (they will). The extra stress could cause the connector to snap off one of the boards.

A more compelling reason is that any slight dips in the floor will cause an audible sound every time you step on it and it bangs onto the sub floor thanks to your added weight.

I'm not aware of any "serious" reasons to use underlay (fire safety, structural, etc). If it's your house and you don't want to lay underlay, you won't be the first homeowner not to bother with it and I doubt you'll have problems.

I always found, however, that a roll of Tuck Tape and a couple of rolls of foam underlay was pretty insignificant compared to the cost of the flooring itself, and the ease and speed of installation was similarly not a serious issue.


Yes, what's left of it anyway. My guess is that all of the filters were removed and the lines were just put together so you didn't ask, "Hey, what's this do?". -Nothing, they took everything except the kitchen sink.

espwaterproducts.com/about-reverse-osmosis


How do you find helpers for larger DIY projects?

Many community colleges offer construction trade courses. Have a chat with the instructor, he can often offer enthusiastic young students who are ready and willing to provide some sweat as an on-the-job learning opportunity.

The students get class credit, the only cost to you is to buy them lunch and provide water, no insurance/license, etc. required because they are covered by the institution.

This is assuming the instructor finds your project suitable and the work area safe.


There's probably 50 years of lint build-up in the drain line that services this leg, causing it to be somewhat restricted. Draining a washer into a laundry sink buffers the high flow, which both makes that less of a practical problem (so long as it drains eventually) and also encourages the problem (since the water flows more slowly) - if it's backing up now, then the line beyond is probably in need of cleaning.
The vent line has some serious code issues by the codes I work under - apart from the question of how long your wet-vent is (on a trap that's absolutely testing the limits of venting to not get suctioned dry - washing machines are difficult) it is clearly going horizontal low enough that I doubt it's 6" above the flood rim of the highest fixture on the floor served. Indeed, it would appear to be below the level of the standpipe, though that does involve interpreting between pictures, but I also doubt it's 6" higher than the rim of the laundry sink I can't see.


New portable AC needs single circuit outlet, what does that mean, and how can I tell if my outlet is the right kind for my 14K BTU AC?

A single circuit outlet is one that is wired to the panel and does not engage or connect to any other outlets or appliances using electricity. The purpose is to eliminate/reduce additional current draw preventing breakers from popping from overload, or fires from starting caused by faulty breakers.

You can determine if you have a genuine single circuit outlet by plugging lamps into all of your outlets. Flip each breaker off in turn. If only one lamp goes out, you might have found your objective.

You can "work around" the single circuit restriction if you identify with certainty the outlets shared with the one you've chosen to use with the unit. Turning nothing else on while the A/C is in use will prevent the overload, possible breaker trip or circuit failure/fire.

If, for example, you discovered that your television is connected to the same circuit you've chosen for the A/C, it may draw enough total power (A/C and TV) to pop the breaker. It's a sure thing that you would not use a 1500 watt hair dryer while operating your A/C on the same circuit. Some televisions draw very little power, so that appliance may have been a poor choice.

Because the second option involves human engineering, it is more prone to human error. An example from my world is the kitchen circuit. One microwave oven running in convection mode and one toaster oven running in baking mode is more than the non-single-circuit breaker can handle. We know not to do this, yet it happens often.

Regarding the use in your building, it's less certain, but the A/C unit is merely blowing hot humid air out the window and would not be visible as a protruding box, as would a window unit. It seems likely you would be able to use it without complications in that respect.


What to do about particles floating in pool?

Is the skimmer basket unit working properly so that the pump sucks in water from right at the water surface? If not then repair or replace it with new parts as necessary.

Your DE filtration system may have some problems. The internal screens that hold the DE matrix in place may have holes that allow water to go right through the filter without passing through a layer of the DE material. If so then the problem screens would need replacement.

It is also possible that the last time the filter system was replenished with DE material that not enough was added and so some portion of the filter screens are not covered with a layer DE material or the layer is way way to thin. In this case your planned back flush and maintenance check of the filter is in order.


I'm assembling a swing set, having issues keeping it square

If the issue is a flat place to put it, see Kyle B's answer.
If the issue is squaring the individual parts into one of these frames, cast your mind back to geometry, and make the diagonals equal length (i.e. get the screws into a section but not completely tight. Measure the diagonals and nudge the frame until they are equal, then tighten the screws, and check the diagonals again just in case.) This is typically much more accurate than using a square, though you can certainly use a square in the same manner (assemble loosely, nudge to square, tighten) and that may be close enough for this purpose.
Edit to add: Putting in one screw, adjusting the diagonals, and only THEN putting in the rest of the screws will work better if you are not using pre-drilled pilot holes for the screws. I was assuming that this being a kit it has predrilled holes, which should be close enough that having them all in but a bit loose should allow adjustment to square.


What is better for a roof, plywood or OSB?

It could be that they are trying to slow down a fire from spreading. The material at the edges might be more fire resistant, so the fire will spread to adjacent buildings more slowly, allowing the occupants more time to escape.  You might be able to verify this by checking the local fire codes for conjoined (not sure this is the right term) buildings.

See how if there was an MS Paint fire, the flames would stay away from the next building (assuming the material in the middle burns faster).

The man would then have more time to get to safety, or be saved by Captain Construction.


Backer rod and sealant can fill the joint. Provided the installation prevents bulk water infiltration, it provides an additional layer of protection. If the joint currently allows the passage of water, this is a stopgap versus reinstalling the windows properly.


Hang a plastic chain in the pipe, all the way from top to bottom. The water will trickle down the chain instead of hitting the walls.


How can I attach a curtain rail to a lath and plaster wall?

Finding studs behind lath-and-plaster walls can be difficult because the plaster is so dense. See Am I having trouble finding studs because my walls are lath and plaster? for some suggestions.

However, since you know exactly where the strip of wood has to go, you should be able to drill some small pilot holes behind its eventual location, then fish some wire into the wall cavity to find the studs on either side of each hole. I wouldn't count on having all the studs at 16" centers, and you may even have some studs doubled up, so I'd do more than one pilot hole to be sure to find enough mount points to attach your curtain rail securely.


How do I connect a 240v compressor with only black and white wires?

Get some red electrical tape and wrap it around the white wire, this will make the wiring more obvious to you.  It is not properly color-coded because they are using common off-the-shelf 3-wire cordage, which is manufactured as black/white/green. It's legal to omit the marking on machinery, but it's required in wiring that's part of your house (often omitted there too).

You will need 240V electrical service.  If you connect it via cord and plug, you will need a NEMA 6 plug and a NEMA 6 receptacle.  You can also use a NEMA 14 plug and receptacle; in that case you will not hook up neutral on the plug.

If you are doing brand-new wiring for this, it may be best to use /3 cable and bring along a neutral in the wiring to the outlet point.  You would not use the neutral, but it would be installed and ready for use for some future application.


Is this wiring correct for outlet and junction box?

I don't believe it is correct to use both backstabs and screws.  If it's legal, it's not a good idea, partly because backstabs are notoriously unreliable.

Also the socket in question is a 50 cent builder grade special, all the more reason not to use backstabs or the socket itself.   A much better choice would be a $3 screw-and-clamp type such as Leviton, which allow 2 wire connections per screw, easily handling those 3 wires each side.

It's fine to use any box as a junction box.  I do it all the time, a switch or outlet box is a good place to do it since they have to be accessible.     Just watch your cubic inches.  For instance, in that box I see

1 count for all the grounds combined
8 counts for the 8 conductors present
2 counts for the yoke (not caring if it's a thin little switch or GFCI)

Total 11. Given their fondness for backstabs (well in fairness they are using screws wherever possible), this had better be 14 AWG wire. (Backstabs won't fit 12AWG).   That requires 2 cubic inches per count, so 22 cubic inches.  You'll have to look in the box for a cubic inch count stamped into it.


From where does gas oven get combustion air?

Home gas ovens draw oxygen from room air, and in turn add CO2, some CO, a little SO2 (from impurities and warning smell additive) and perhaps some nitrogen oxides to the room air. An externally vented exhaust hood helps get rid of these combustion products.

Most homes are not so air-tight that use of a stove or oven (other than on self-clean cycle) poses an issue. However, there may be local recommendations or requirements for air exchange, but "in the United States, venting most residential gas ranges and cooktops to the outside is not required."

So, if your evaporative cooler is vented, and the airflow interferes with the oven, you may need to operate the range-hood fan or crack a window (admittedly reducing the efficiency of the swamp cooler).


Exposure to asbestos, what to do with stuff and worries?

What's actually true is that workers in environments saturated with asbestos dust (i.e. asbestos factories and boiler construction), where they are huffing it into their lungs 8 hours a day, 250 days a year for 30 years... have a chance of developing a rare cancer. The fibers in their lungs and increase the chance of DNA replication errors taking hold (cancer).
Employees sued, and the manufacturers agreed with the government to create "Trust Funds" to pay out claims.  Each trust fund will pay only claims related to that company, which makes applying for relief a little bit complicated.  Just complicated enough to need to get a lawyer involved to build the case properly.
Contingency-fee lawyers charge 1/3 of the payout.
Getting the picture?
This has created a feeding frenzy of lawyers trying to find these victims so they can collect 1/3 payouts on these easy cases.  On Google search advertising, mesothelioma has been the most valuable keyword in the industry for a decade. They also carpet-bomb TV and radio looking for these rare victims.
So actually, you are not comparing the actual toxicity of the various compounds in your home

Asbestos
Roundup
Sucralose
food oils over-heated in microwaves

You are only comparing their level of (adverse) advertising exposure.
Notice also how "novelty" figures into risk management.  Because this asbestos encounter is "new to you", honestly, you'd do all sorts of extreme cleaning if we told you to, because it's interesting. Contrast that to your feelings toward COVID-19 protocols... you're fed up with masks and social distancing and want to stop ASAP.  Even though COVID-19 is infinitely more dangerous.
The toxicity of asbestos in an occasional chance encounter like this, is nil.  All you need to do is not be moronic; i.e. don't grind it up and snort it.   Bonus points for using "wet" techniques for the clean-up.  End of the day, don't worry about it.


Which way should the water separator be fitted to an air compressor?

the arrow (triangle) always points in the direction of air flow (from the compressor to the tool). In this case you would attach the filter (arrow side) to the air line usually after a valve (but not always) and on the opposite side a hose (or whatever accessories there may be). Use Teflon tape on all threads And don't use paste which may clog tool ports. And a good habit is to drain the tank of condensation regularly.


What distance apart should metal stud securing brackets be placed?

Typically the studs would be fastened to the wall with clips or L metal.
Spacing would be 24 inches vertical & 48 inches Horizontally.
Metal studs have a punch out for bridging typical 4' 6" vertical for cold rolled channel to be in stalled some bridging require clips screw attached and others just snap in place depending on the manufacture.
You also need to check on the Seismic rating as you stated plaster was being installed.


A glossy finish is Bad News on a surface you are going to recoat.

Paint bonds to the underlying surface one of two ways:

the next coat of paint is chemically compatible with the last coat (usually that means the exact same paint), and the last coat is still chemically active enough for a chemical bond to occur.   If you read paint cans, that's what "recoat time" is all about.
the surface is microscopically rough, i.e. has lots of jaggy mountains and canyons.  This is called tooth.  A surface which has been recently sanded will have this characteristic.   The next coat will form a mechanical bond by the drying paint interlocking with the dry paint.

Gloss and tooth are contradictions of each other. Gloss requires a mirror smooth surface, which a glossy topcoat is designed to give you.

In even the best paint systems, primer and paint are often chemically dissimilar.    Therefore you rely on the mechanical bond.  Primers are designed to leave a rough surface when applied normally, as a timesaver.  If you managed to lay down primer in a glossy surface, you'd need to "scuff sand" it to create the tooth needed for the next layer.

But a glossy primer would also raise the question of whether you applied it correctly, and by extension whether it would cure and perform properly under those circumstances. For instance if you put it on too thick, you might want to give it a few more days to cure.


Hide fiberglass insulation in ceiling next to stone wall

The simplest solution here would be plywood. It would be easy to cut into the shapes you need (which are mostly rectangular) and then screw to the bottom of the joists. If you want to cover by the stones, consider caulk, but I think the plywood would suffice here.


Necessity/value of using cardboard or weed barrier under gravel shed foundation?

If you don't choose to use geotextile, you may (depending on soil conditions) find that over time your gravel migrates into the ground, and the fine soils of the ground migrate up through your gravel layer - that is one thing geotextile is used specifically to prevent.
Weed barrier or cardboard are not geotextile, even if one roll of black plastic "cloth" looks much like another. And weed barrier is of very limited use against weeds, in my experience - new organic material (leaves, etc) get into the spaces in the gravel along with weed seeds and you have new weeds growing on top of the weed barrier in short order, unless you are going to vacuum all the rocks up, wash them and replace them regularly - I don't consider that to be a viable use of my time anywhere, much less under a shed.
Expect your larch in contact with the ground/gravel to rot. Being totally biodegradable oriented means you'll be replacing parts that biodegrade. If you'd like to do a bit less of that but are (apparently) also avoiding concrete, consider elevating the larch on somewhat larger rocks - done right it's lasted a fairly long time in some old barns I've met. The trick is to keep the wood dry, and water likes to wick...


How can I modify a flooring transition so that perfectly fits the two surfaces?

Sure it is. This most commonly occurs between rooms, so the "door threshold" is often tasked with the job. In most cases it simply adds a third level slightly above both - depending on the design it may overlap, or it may emerge vertically (overlap is better for lousy workmanship - emerging vertically requires that the flooring end or be cut precisely, or it looks sloppy.)

An honest and substantial threshold looks 9 times better than a chintzy narrow piece of aluminum or plastic trim where someone chose to run two types of flooring together and not consider the transition; but that's an opinion (mine.)

For your "calibrated transition" make it from wood as an overlap, and cut the rabbet on the high side deeper (think about it until that makes sense.)

The "vertical" type is most commonly seen as marble or granite thresholds anywhere from 2" to 6" or more wide. Cut out the appropriate section of floor precisely, plunk in some mortar, check the height, add or remove mortar, fine adjust with a rubber mallet, let the mortar set.


May I suggest you solve the problem differently? Use a thin sheet  of aluminum, mount the panel to that using small self tapping screws, and then bend form the aluminum sheet at 90 degrees so that the switch faces front and there is a flat piece resting on the shelf top. Then, bind this piece to the shelf top using either bolts and washers, zipties or even something good & heavy like a book... depending on your needs.

You'll get a more stable switch mount and it'll look better. Aluminum also takes paint well if you want to spray it or whatever to match the switch or your decor.


Weather proof connection from FMC to box

In my opinion FMC is no good for this application, even though it's only barely outside, it's not rated for outdoor use.  (I realize lots of people would either disagree or figure it's close enough and run with an indoor rated wiring method.)

The easiest thing to do would probably be to set a box inside and transition from FMC to UF cable - run the UF through the wall to the back of the box with a suitable waterproof connector such as this one from Arlington:

http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/non-metallic-cable-fittings-and-supports/uf-connectors/UF50

To connect the UF connector to the inside box, you could use an indoor-rated clamp as long as it's listing / instructions / labelling says it's for use with UF.  It might be easier to just use the outdoor connection indoors as well.

You might be able to find what's called a "transition fitting" or a "this-to-that" that will connect UF directly to FMC but again it's probably simpler and easier to just transition in a box.


What you are wanting to do would be better on a tablesaw because of the amount of material to remove.  A Jointer or Planer is good for making very strait edges and tight joints, but with 1/2" of variation, you're not to that point yet.

What you want to do is a form of a "tapering cut" on a table saw, but instead of tapering, you just want to make the edge straight.  Tapering is when you have a board that is 6' long, and the top needs to be 3" wide and the bottom needs to be 4" to make up for a crooked wall or similar.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2014/09/25/how-to-cut-a-tapered-board-on-a-tablesaw

There are many videos and how to's if you search for making a tapered cut, and they usually involve attaching your board to a straight board at an angle.  You'll do the same thing, but without the angle.

I've done this with boards as long as 8' and a taper of 1/2" or so relatively easily.


Is my two-way switch installation easily fixable?

Look at the other switch; there should be 1 coming in; a black live, and 2 travelers black and red or black and labeled black coming out. The neutral will just be pigtailed. If there is just a single switched live going out then you will need to run an extra wire to the other switch.

To make a single switch into 2 you need an extra traveler (switched live) between the switches.


Is there a standardized way of calculating load bearing of beams with connections notching the beam?

All loads on beams / columns matter. So, if you are adding beams (loads) to existing beams, you are right to worry about its affect. However, there are three things in your favor: 1) everything is designed with a "safety factor", 2) residential design is way-over designed, and 3) beams are designed to fail in tension.

1) Structural design has "Working Stress" and "Ultimate Stress". Ultimate stress (failure) is about 150-180% more than working stress (what we design beams, columns, etc. to).

2) Residential design is largely done by non-professionals (architects and structural engineers). So, "what is commonly used" in residential construction is grossly over sized.

3) Beams are designed (design formulas used) to fail in tension. That way, we'll see cracks and presumably investigate, rather than fail by compression, which will fail with a bang...and have a disaster.

So, back to your question, yes, there is a way to determine how much weight can be added to a beam, how big holes (and how many holes) can safely be drilled into a beam, etc.  However, unless you're "doubling the load" or excessively drilling an existing beam (1 connector is not excessive), then I think your safe.

You can destroy a concrete beam quicker than steel or wood beams. When drilling the concrete beam, you'll know quickly if it's a poured-in-place beam or a steel beam encased in concrete. In fact, you may not be able to drill through the steel/concrete beam. So, rather than "mess with the concrete beam", why not design a "saddle" to fit over the beam and support your new added beam and lights.

If you decide to proceed with drilling the concrete beam, I'd recommend you contact an architect or structural engineer (not a CIVIL engineer.)


Is it a bad idea to tie output of hot water heater to sump pump drain?

Do not connect the overflow from the water heater to the a/c condensate line as you have marked. If the TPV ever did open wide, then water would flow back into your a/c evaporator and gas-fired furnace. This is not permitted and would be very destructive.

You could direct the output of the WH to the same pipe that the a/c condensate goes into by using the proper fittings, but if I were you I would direct my efforts to determining why the TP relief valve is leaking. What temperature do you have the WH set at? Is the water coming out of the hot water taps extremely hot?

Then I would attach an expansion adapter near the floor to the end of the pipe the condensate goes into. This would allow both pipes to feed into the pipe going to the sump and provide a visible air gap between both pipes and the pipe leading to the sump.


What kind of exterior wall insulation is this?

I'm not really seeing the part you're referring to with it being tucked in, but it looks to me like this is just foil-faced fiberglass batt insulation. The foil acts as a radiant energy barrier.
It is built like paper-faced insulation, but with a metallic facing instead of just paper. This is supposed to add some insulation value by reflecting energy back into the conditioned space or reflecting back to the outside, depending on how it's installed (you would face the foil inside if you mostly have to heat your interior, and outside if you mostly cool the interior).


Should I add batt insulation to concrete basement walls?

I finished a basement in MN and spent a whole lot of time researching it. I eventually settled upon a method using XPS, steel studs, and paperless sheetrock as recommended by Building Sciences corporation and the US Dept. of Energy. I detailed the specifics on the answer to this question here:

https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/8644/1209

As for your questions:

I strongly recommend not ever using a vapor barrier in a basement. Read through my answer above for some more details. But, in summary: XPS acts a moisture retarder, but will still allow trapped moisture to dry to one side or the other. And since a basement can have moisture on either side, it's good to let it breath. When I finished my basement in MN, this was the biggest challenge I had with the St. Paul building inspectors. They insisted on vapor barriers, though invariably, in every basement I visited in MN with a VB, it smelled musty. I eventually did enough research to show them that the times have changed and VBs are not recommended that much anymore in basements by modern builders.
adding the fiberglass likely wouldn't hurt anything...it's more insulation. But it may not add a whole lot, either, if the XPS is already sufficiently thick enough. So, the question is how thick is the current XPS? If it's providing a good r-value already, you might be good to go there. Save the time/effort and just stud out from there (using Metal studs, IMHO).

Good luck!


Cracked heat exchanger, gas furnace, a scam?

You can buy a CO detector at Walmart for $20 bucks and you will know for sure.
EVERY home with a gas appliance should ALWAYS have a CO detector


The flex pipe is making the noise, I had a big gas furnace in my shop that I used a flex pipe, oh my it would whistle, upsize6 to 3/4" and the noise was way less. Added is on simple fibreglass insulation around the flex and my bat ear kid said it was ok.


Water won't drain completely from my bath sink

This is typically caused by too shallow a slope from the p-trap back to the 'Y' . That pipe is called a dirty lateral, because it fills up with gunk instead of flowing downstream to the main.

If you can open the cabinet below the sink and look back to the wall, the P-trap loop should be higher than where drain line exits into the wall. (Makes sense that the water should flow down, then loop, then out with a gentle slope, right?)

If the p-trap is too low, water rests in the drain lateral, and could back up....you can raise the p-trap to get better flow out.

If the p-trap is already above the wall exit, then I would clean out the sink tail piece as follows:

Sop up extra liquid in the sink, empty the cabinet, put down junk towels, and remove the p-trap...holding it upright to not spill as you go pour it into the toilet. With the trap removed, you should be able to shine a flashlight down from the sink bowl and see a whistle clean tube.

Duh, don't turn on any water while the sink is inn this condition.

If the stopper is in the way, remove it by disconnecting it from the control (usually with a squeeze friction clamp on the control level.) Once the stopper is out of the way, you can clean the inside of the tail piece with a small disposable rag and a coat hanger...just don't use too big of a rag and get it stuck.

After it is clean, reassemble the stopper, control lever assembly, and put the ptrap back onto the sink tail piece. All the plastic threads/fittings should be hand tight, no need to wrench them and risk cracking them.


Swapped out light switch and now WIRES have no power?

I had an instance in my current home where the previous owner replaced a three way switch with a non-3-way dimmer and it acted like your situation.  The original switch would seem like it did not work, unless the dimmer was on, then it would switch the dimmer.

Take a look at the wires you have and also look at wiring diagrams for a three way light circuit and see if anything makes sense in that context.  For my situation, I had to remove three light switches downstairs where the bad dimmer was and figure out what every single wire did until I found the two travelers and hot that were meant for the original three way.

For now, also check your breakers.  It's possible that a certain on/off arrangement of your new switches is leading to a short that is tripping the breaker since it doesn't seem like you truly know what wire goes to what screw.


What is the "red button" on my circuit breaker

If the condition that made it trip in the first place is still there when you go to reset it, it will not appear to reset, because the problem is still there so it is essentially immediately seeing that problem and releasing the trip mechanism. There are two kinds of trip mechanisms in a breaker, thermal, which takes time and is there to protect against overloads, and magnetic, which is instantaneous and meant to protect against short circuits. So it appears your A/C unit has an internal short circuit, hence the suggestions that you get it looked at.


how to tighten the nuts inside the U shape under the countertop in the kitchen

That type of faucet typically comes with a special deep socket tool to make fastening easy. Without that tool (and they are not "universal"; each faucet make/model may have different size/style) you are left to making some other tool work as best as you can (long handled plier, basin wrench, crowfoot wrench, adjustable wrench, etc.)

I would never attempt to tighten that up with those hoses in the way, remove them first to facilitate access.

You say that the mounting surface is "very soft and difficult to tighten the nuts". I am afraid that will be a problem for you. You really should remove the entire faucet and repair/reinforce the damaged sink.


What is this pipe called, and how does it work?

A capped opening in a sewer line is called a clean-out, usually they are a 4" long bend wye with a cap on one branch so you can pull the cover and run a snake down the whole length of the main sewer line.

In this case, a 2" pipe would be a good size to run a snake down to clear any clogs downstream from the toilet. I'd guess that somebody didn't allow enough drop in the sewer line and added the pipe to allow shoving the solids out of a long, level area.

Sewer Auger (Snake) or a Water Bladder Clog Buster just in case you ever have to use it.

No, it's not a vent.


Overflow pipe from water tank constantly dripping

What do I need to do to fix this?

It would depend- if you are fairly certain that the overflow issue cause is the fill valve then that needs to be addressed, as you already seem to know.

  Is there anything I can do to fix the current valve?

Maybe- if you are fairly handy you could probably disassemble the float valve and repair or replace the washers inside, but it might be easier to just replace the valve. One trick would be to carefully bend the float-ball rod a bit more to the downward position. This causes a bit more pressure against the bibb washer when the level rises and might make it seal; this is a temporary/cheap-ass fix.

  Or will I need to buy something like this?

Your link is to a new float valve, which is fairly inexpensive and easy to replace; I recommend it as long as you ensure that the diameter (the hole it fits into) and threaded connection size/type are the same or are adaptable to your existing equipment.

  Do I need to make sure the diameter of the pipe matches up with a new
  valve?

See previous comment above.

  Does the height of the float need to be configurable on a new valve?

You can adjust the water level by using different length rods and bending them as needed.

  When fitting a valve, will I need to use thread-seal tape?

Yes, on the threaded water connections to ensure a good seal.

  Will I need to do anything to the bolts on the outside of the tank
  (pictured above)?

If you replace the float valve you will need to ensure a seal between the valve and the tank. This is usually accomplished with a rubber gasket between the nut and the tank, if the old gasket is soft and crappy you made need to get a new one (the new float valve may come with one).


Do doors with overlapping swings violate building regulations in the UK?

I don’t know about the UK, but in the U.S. door swings are not regulated until you reach 10 occupants in commercial, institutional, retail, etc. buildings. (Residential and agricultural buildings are never regulated...well, there is a requirement about the size of an exit/entrance door from a residence.)

So, your doors might be inconvenient, cause bodily injury, be difficult to use in an emergency, seem silly, etc. they would not violate any building code in the U.S.

Our codes are based on the International Code Council (ICC).


Cable amplifier repeater setup for best signal

Before going crazy adding amplifiers you might want to spend a little time investigating the current wiring/splitting situation in your house, if you haven't already.

Every splitter and every foot of cable contribute to signal loss:

Verify that you have only the bare minimum number of splitters in your system (in this case it seems like you can get away with 1).
Make sure you don't have any unnecessary long bundles of cable, or cable splices. Sometimes people will buy a long amount of cable and then just coil it all up in the basement instead of trimming it.
Make sure all your existing cables are in good condition: no nicks in the jacket, hard kinks (a bend is fine but a hard kink can break the interior insulation). Make sure all connections are secure. If any cable or connector seems questionable, replace it.
Make sure the splitter only has as many outputs as you need. A 4-way splitter will drop the signal on each leg more than a 3-way, no matter how many devices are plugged in.

If you're trying to troubleshoot signal strength, you may be able to use the config page on your DOCSIS modem, which should display the signal strength ("power level" in dBmV and "signal-to-noise ratio" in dB).

I think it's unlikely you'll really need 3 amplifiers in your house, especially if the cable company has verified that their own amplifier is providing a sufficient signal to your property. Typically the utility company is responsible for getting a usable signal as far as the exterior wall. If the above suggestions don't yield anything, you might want to call them back and ask them.

Edit based on additional cable modem signal info

The signal numbers you've posted all look perfectly within spec according to several websites, e.g. What cable modem signal levels are considered good?. I am not a cable tech and there may be other signal issues in play but as a rough cut you seem to be getting a decent signal. I don't think an amp will help.

I assume you're using a site like Speedtest.net to measure your internet speed and you're not getting what you think you should?

There are a couple reasons this might happen:

Poor signal to cable modem (I think we can probably rule this out, but who knows)
Poor wifi signal, if you're using wifi. Make sure you do these test with a hardwired ethernet cable if possible, to remove that variable.
Competition between other internet users in your area. Peak internet usage is between 7-9pm. Try running a test late at night or early in the morning to see if you get a different result.
Unsupported cable modem: is your cable modem provided by your utility or did you buy it yourself? Is it an approved model? You mention "DOCSIS 3" in your post so I assume you've thought about this, but make sure you have an approved modem that supports your utility's network.
Some other issue with your cable provider

To test whether your house's wiring / splitters are the problem, try moving the cable modem to be directly connected to the utility-installed amplifier (i.e. remove all the household wiring and splitters), and see if you get different speed or signal numbers.


How can I locate a mysterious leak in a 3 story rental unit?

you can run a dye trace on the building.  you just buy a uv trace kit and you add the different colour dyes to the suspect areas.  then wait a couple of days and check the area with the uv light.  whatever colour shows up is from the site with the leak.  you may have to repeat a few times to get it to show up.

as an aside, if its a flat roof, check the adjacent areas on the roof really closely.  its often the case that you will get a hairline crack in a sill or dam and its the cause of the problem.


What should I use to repair plaster in a bathroom?

There are a few options that can be used to repair this damage. You can use standard joint compound (non-lightweight), and apply it in thin coats to avoid cracking due to shrinking, joint compound mixed with plaster, or professional grade oil based drywall spackle.

The first step would be to dry the wall and inspect it for mold. If there is any surface mold present, you can kill it with a bathroom cleaner that has bleach in it. After the surface has been cleaned and dried out thoroughly, you would want to apply a stain blocking primer like Kilz. This will give you a good surface to bond the repair to. You can then apply the drywall filler of your choosing. You may need to apply it in several layers to get a good result.

Once you are satisfied with the repair, then you can begin to prepare the wall for paint. I suggest priming the wall with an interior/exterior grade primer that will be able to stand up to the moisture. 2 - 3 coats should be enough for good coverage. I also recommend that you extend the primer past the damaged area to ensure that the same problem won't reoccur. If you can, prime the whole area around the shower. After it has been primed, then you can apply the top coat. A good idea would be to repaint the entire bathroom with paint that is made for kitchen and bathrooms. This kind of paint will resist water, and can easily be cleaned. Many brands are also resistant to mold.


How to effectively patch/recaulk small crevices between bathtub and bathroom tile?

That is not a bathroom crevice that is a canyon.

You can not stop water from flowing in a canyon unless you build a big ass dam.
But before that WTF is going on in that tub?  HOLY SH!T was my reaction.   Nice tile, good quality tub (I can tell its cast iron) and egregious small mistakes.   WOW!!
Let me give you the John Madden teleprompter rundown.
#1 - ILLEGAL USE OF CAULK, 15 yards, HOME DEPOT CARD TAKEN AWAY

#2 - What?   What?   What?   You have a gigantic crack, a canyon and that canyon is on rails that contains a large river and it is just wide open?   This is like Jerry Rice vs SD in the Super Bowl.   Touchdown water.

#3 - I see what you did here.  You went Deacon Jones on the water.   I will put so much caulk above this crack that it will get a headslap on the way down.   Caulking above the crack only works in Australia.   That is a DIY fact.

#4 - The Mike Martz.   Your tile and tub is Kurt Warner.   Please please coach give me some protection.   Wait they are blitzing 6.   Well we will run 5 deep patterns and see what happens.    Well you don't have time for that you have mold.

Summary:  What must happen, must happen.  This is not me speaking to you, it is your tub, your walls, your sanity.

Tub door shall be removed.   I would bury it.  It wasn't installed right.   Get a rod and curtain that will keep the water out of 90% of the places you are having issues with.  This door is funneling water EVERYWHERE.   It is the Colorado river on steroids.

Grout all of the large cracks between tile and tub once door is removed.

Caulk all of the small gaps (last picture) between tile and tub.

Realize it will take 1 hour to take that door out and 45 mins to grout and 20 minutes to caulk and you probably have a tub running at 95%.   It isn't that bad you just have that door sabotaging right now.


Remove fireplace leave metal chimney on roof

You can cap it with a chase cover if its not functional, your local sheet metal shop can probably make one at a low cost, here's an example:
https://www.kmsheetmetal.com/shop/Chimney-Chase-Cover-p195969014[![enter image description here]1]1


Yes. Detectors are not daisy-chained, but wired in parallel and can be individually disabled or have new ones added.


Why cement under upstairs bathroom floor?

It was (and still is) common to float cement on top of the floor for installation of ceramic tile. It provides a level and firm substrate to which tile mortar (thin-set) will adhere. 1 1/2" seems a bit thick though, maybe there were irregularities with the floor which had to be compensated for. I try not to float so thick unless I have to, and now I use cementitious tile backer board when appropriate. Or sometimes I mortar the tile directly to a smooth firm plywood subfloor in new construction applications.


I have steel casement windows, love the look.  House is unquie and beautiful.  However in the NY winter they are a problem.  I got a product that made a huge difference called a Indow.  Expensive, but it’s a custom fit for each window frame of hard plastic w foam edge around.  Creating a second barrier to single pane glass.  Made a big difference...I’m slowly getting to more windows in house.  For the ones I don’t have yet, and very big windows I use the 3M plastic sheet shrink wrap.... it’s time consuming but works.  If you can recommend a weather strip I would add that


You need to see if you can first remove the dirt. The depth of the footers will determine that. If you can remove dirt, you'd want to remove enough dirt so that you can put down a gravel base, compact it, then pour a new slab.

If you can't remove the dirt, you might be able to pour a raised concrete slab.

If you want to go super-cheap, lay down and seal a plastic barrier above the dirt just as you'd do in a crawl space.


What type of paint is suitable over Cempolay Ultra Strong concrete leveler?

2 part epoxy paints are the toughest for garage floors. The floor paint in 1 can really has not held up well for those I know that have used it. The 1 part stuff pulls up where the tires sit. I had a 3 bay shop with a 33' motor home in 1 bay and 3500 diesel truck in another and the floor looked great after 8-10 years when I sold the place. some of the big box stores carry 2 part but I am not sure if it comes in red, I only remember blue and gray.


Are light socket to outlet adapters safe for outdoor holiday lights?

As long as you don't overload the fixture or the circuit, those socket adapters would be OK, especially for a temporary setup like Christmas lights. The key is making sure you're not overloading anything.

Figure out what else is on the circuit with the outside light, and what size breaker protects that circuit. Figure out what size wire is used inside the light - this will typically be smaller than the #14 used in lighting circuits. Determine the current capacity of that smaller wire, and keep the total load less than that capacity. Using LED bulbs will allow you to run more lights this way.

Of course, using an actual receptacle is the preferred option, so make sure you don't have any outside. Check around the AC unit for a receptacle, and near each entry door. Check in your garage (including on the ceiling, where an opener may be plugged in). Running extension cords all over is quite normal during the holidays.

You may prefer to run an extension cord from inside; just make sure that it isn't crushed when closing the window or door it passes through.


How can I measure water/moisture content within a wall cavity?

I've used a moisture meter to do roughly this. My meter is the pinless kind. Some years ago, we had a contractor who did a less than perfect job on a bathroom remodel. (Ok, they left behind leaks in something like six separate places.) With the meter, I was able to tell where water was a problem, and also know when we had finally gotten all the leaks repaired.

I would not expect the actual meter reading to be highly accurate, since these meters are usually calibrated for wood. But the meter will indeed be able to tell the presence of moisture, and to differentiate between dry and wet. The problem is, these meters can only read to a certain depth, typically a half inch or so in wood. I'll look tomorrow to see, I might be able to test mine under similar conditions to see how deeply it can read.

Edit: I tested my moisture meter. I have a 12+ year old Wagner L609, an inexpensive pin-less meter that works nicely for wood samples. It is not tremendously accurate, but it does show moisture differences well between samples. Newer models might read more deeply than did mine.

The first test that I ran was to test a piece of 1/2 inch thick drywall, then move the flat of my hand up to it, until I saw a difference. By itself, the drywall reads at roughly 5-6%, my hand by itself reads off the top of the scale. When my hand approaches to within roughly 1/2inch, the meter sees a difference, jumping up by about 3-4%. It could also recognize the presence of my hand on the other side of a 3/4 inch thick telephone book.

Of course, this is a poor test for what you are doing. Suppose that moisture collects on the inside of a vapor barrier inside the wall, separated by over an inch from the interior wall surface? Were this to happen, the air space between the two surfaces will be maintained at a high humidity. In turn, this will significantly raise the moisture content of the interior wall surface.

I next did a test where I showed that drywall faced with a somewhat moister environment on one side would then easily register several percent high in moisture content.

This last test convinces me that you can indeed check for elevated moisture content of a wall cavity using a non-invasive and inexpensive moisture meter.


I used pex to plumb my bathroom and now have water coming out the shower head when filling the tub

Sounds like you used PEX to run from the mixer valve to the tub spout.  Replace the PEX that goes from the mixer to the spout with copper.  You are getting a bypass to the shower because the PEX from the mixer to the spout cannot handle the flow without backing up to the shower head.  PEX has a slightly smaller i.d. than copper.


Box fill calculation for isolated ground receptacles

I worked in a hospital back in the late 90’s early 2k. I still have notes in my code book pointing to 250.146.D with a note that states isolated grounds count as +1x the wire size, I jumped back and read it and today it is not clear. But since it is a separate means of grounding I would count the isolated grounds as grounds but separately from the required grounding. This would mean in that box a 2x total count for grounds where 1x the wire size is normal. An isolated ground can pass through a box or panel without being connected if not used in that box or panel. The isolated ground will be bonded at the service panel for the building.

Hope that helps , it is fuzzy but I know it was required so I would count it.


What is the easiest way to install multiple 5A BS546 sockets next to one another?

Yes those sockets fit on normal single gang backboxes.

The easiest solution is probably to just fit surface mount plastic boxes and then run normal twin and earth cable (any size from 1mm2 to 2.5mm2 will be fine) between them. No need for conduit. Surface mounting is easier both because you don't have to make a hole in the wall and because surface boxes are the full size of the faceplate so you can just butt them up (flush boxes are smaller than the faceplate so if you want the faceplates to sit next to each other you have to space the boxes just right).

Normal surface mount boxes have knockouts at the back of the sidewall (intended for use with cables that are directly clipped to the surface of the wall). Be careful when knocking them out, it's easy to break the boxes.

You can get backboxes designed to take two single gang accessories on one box. I've also seen boxes for one single and one double but i've never seen one for three singles.

Another option is "Euro modules". While I have never seen a double or triple 5A socket as a single unit you can get 5A sockets in Euro module form and install them in a Euro module faceplate. This would allow you to put three 5A bs546 sockets on one plate, but you will likely have to order the parts from specialist suppliers. 5A BS546 Euro modules and 3 gang (6 module) Euro faceplates are both fairly unusual items.

Unlike Americans we don't normally clamp cables where they enter and leave back boxes. We also don't have prescriptive rules for box-fill. We do however sleeve our earth conductors which Americans don't.


How do I eliminate one 3 way switch and replace it with a single pole switch?

A modification of longneck's process: (not enough rep to comment)

Set the switches so the light is on.
Turn the breaker off
Remove the garage switch; use a test meter to figure out which leads the switch is connecting.  Connect those two wires permanently.  You are removing this switch from the circuit.  Cap the other wire.
Remove the other switch; use a test meter to figure out which leads are connected by this switch, hook them up to a single pole switch.  Cap off the remaining one.

To figure out where the power really flows in this circuit, you have to power this up safely, with the terminals exposed, and use a neon tester figure out which is hot, when the switch(s are) is off.


Would retiling a shower with larger tiles mitigate mould growth on the grout?

So you have a couple of options that will minimize the mold right away:

Wall boards.
Large stone sheets - I have put up a few granite systems and they are not getting any mold.
Larger tile.

If you choose wall boards or large stone sheets then you still need to caulk.  There are caulks - not usually sold at the big box - that are virtually mold proof.  If you want something from a big box then go with GE Silicone II.  I have used it in my own house and never any mold.

The key to a moldless shower is that you only let water stand/sit in the pan.  So you need to plan on your transitions and things like soap dishes.  If you have a nook that is built in the wall and you see mold over it - the problem is the nook not the area directly over it.

Also I have people show me their showers and it is newly caulked...  But their tiles are so old and have been scrubbed (probably with the wrong type of sponges) that they have no facing.  Meaning water may penetrate just a little each shower.  Without enough time to fully dry - mold.

So I get people who want a mold-free shower (and tile) and I always give them the same advice.  Big tiles until you hit 4 feet.  After that we can go smaller or even mosaic.  The less grout the less issues.  Then the key is an epoxy grout.  A true epoxy grout is basically a plastic after it dries.  They look great, they are mold free... So why aren't they used more...

Well the first time I used an epoxy grout was on my backsplash (1 inch mosaic) in my own kitchen many years back.  I wanted to test it before I did a shower.  Holy cow is the epoxy grouting like 5 times the work as regular grouting.  Once you mix your A and B you have about 15 mins to get the grout in and then it slowly hardens to unworkable at around 1 hour.  So you must do small batches and have a helper.  But man does my kitchen backsplash look good.  I have done 5 full showers using epoxy and people are pretty wowed.  It is certainly worth it for a shower.  You will make up your install time in less than a year with less cleaning.

Note: You should not buy "ceramic" tiles for shower - nor should someone sell you these.  They are more porous and will hold water after facing deteriorates - which it will faster than the same quality of porcelain.

Another note:  Only have cement back in shower - no drywall of any kind.  A Kerdi like system is even better but a well installed HB shower with plastic under it that flow to pan will do.


End nailing into the brace will not be a useful and strong joint. Instead do something like the following where the brace is made of 2x lumber. Notch it as shown and set on edge and toe nailed from each side. Much stronger.


How to remove broken hinge which is stuck inside

That style of hinge is generally made from a pair of metal cups and a piece of round bar.

It definitely looks like a good candidate for heat. There will be damage done to the surrounding paint. Either warm the top piece with a torch, or cut the whole thing off and weld in a new hinge. It looks as if there's welding to be done there anyway to re-attach the hinge to the door.

If a torch isn't available but a welder is, and if you'd really rather not cut off the lower piece of hinge, then you could weld a couple beads up the exterior of the top portion and grind them off later. As an added bonus such beads might give better grip to the locking pliers you'd want to use to grab and twist the hot hinge.


Swap 2nd thermostat for *off* swtich downstream of 1st thermostat

Just replace A with B.  In Box#1 disconnect the live wire to the switch for Fan#2, from the 120V source and connect it to the Fan#1 terminal.
If these "high voltage" thermostats are actually carrying the load current, not using a relay, make sure Thermostat 1 can handle the current for both fans.. Look at the labelling or documentation for the thermostat and for the fans to figure that out.


Drywall mudding plywood to emulate drywall

yes - we do it from time to time.  just make sure you put mesh tape on the wood and on to the adjacent drywall or plaster before you mud


What type of corbels are needed to support a granite counter top?

Well Jeff, the term corbel is new to me also. I always thought corbel was a champagne. But as far as supporting the granite:

I think those corbels are quite ugly and rather than replace them with more ugly corbels, I'd be inclined to build a support structure around the top of the knee wall and trim it out.  If you were to add a perimeter of 2×4's dressed out with 3/4" pine on that wall, you would increase the load bearing area from about 4 1/2" (3 1/2" stud plus 2 × 1/2" drywall sides) to 9 inches. 9 inches should be plenty to support the new 12" top. Add a little decorative molding to hide any exposed 2×4 on the bottom and a little Scotia or 1/4 round along the top under the counter and you got a nice finished look.


How can I trip a breaker from the outlet

That box should have been a warning that the guy was incompetent; it's a very bad idea. If the breaker malfunctions, it can start a house fire.

There are cheap devices available in most home centers and hardware stores which can put a signal onto the wire and pick that up at the breaker to identify which breaker controls that outlet. There's a better version that a pro should have which can do a few other things.

Or there is the traditional homeowner solution: plug a radio into the outlet, turn up the volume so you can hear it from the basement, and try breakers until you find the one which silences the radio.


Insulation and vapor barriers behind Corian/Greenboard shower walls

According to a local kitchen/bath remodeling company, current code recently changed in my area to specify no vapor barrier behind the solid-surface install.


Is it normal for wood to sometimes squeal when screwing into it?

Yes, sometimes you may encounter a stud that has a big knot or some really gnarly grain that make it can be really hard to insert a screw. Knots especially can be exceedingly hard. A squeal is also rather common in such instances.

You did the right thing by backing out the screw and drilling a slightly larger pilot hole. Doing so you prevented the possibility of over stressing the screw and either stripping out the head or twisting it off. There are some additional things to consider in such case:

If possible move where the screw is being inserted to try to bypass the knot.
The backed out screw may very well have been over stressed when attempting the install it the first time. It should be discarded and use a new screw on the second trial.
Often it can be useful to lubricate the threads of the screw to allow it to enter the wood with less torque. This can also reduce or eliminate the squeal that you were hearing. A common method to lubricate the threads of the screw is to rub them across a bar of hand soap before driving the screw into the hole.


Success I found something useful:
Put the handle back over the handle and tighten the knurled cap, while holding the handle.
-
I hate 1 sentence answers, I write too many words, such is life. I also enjoy teaching when I can. Below is my 'real' answer, it is long, I do not intend to talk down to you, simply to provide as much information as I can. I hope it is useful.
At the bottom of the page, is a cut and paste from the manufacture's website.
The first 3 steps of it will allow us to identify your problem.

1 Turning off the water and reliving the pressure is just a good idea.
It helps keep oops from being a real problem.

2 Unscrew the cap. This is what happened to cause your problem.

3 Handle and Cap come off together - You know this, the question is why.

Hopefully the knurled cap will turn without much friction while holding the handle.
If you need a wet paper towel, or a rubber jar opener as they mention, we have a problem.
There will likely be 'gak' (to use the technical term) inside the handle and cap. A collection of soap and other interesting things.
Lots of hot water, q-tips both the cotton and the stick part, toothpicks, rubbing alcohol, vodka (inside the handle or inside of you) and anything else that will not scratch the metal are fair game.
The part sticking out from the faucet, where the cap attached is the 'cartridge'. It is the working part of the valve it controls the on/of and mixing of hot and cold water. If your faucet were leaking or dripping, this is the part that would need to be replaced.
The top of the cartridge has a tapped hole, this is where the nut screws in to hold the handle onto the faucet. There will be gak on top of the cartridge, and you want to get rid of it too. If the cartridge top moves or turns, that is fine, but it should be very tight and only move with real effort.
There is, or at least should be a flat spot on the cartridge. This should line up with an opening in the cap end of the handle. This serves as a grip area for the handle and the cartridge. It also makes sure that the handle will not spin endlessly and have no effect on the water flow.
The flat spot on the cartridge should be flat and not show signs of wear. If it is brass this is unlikely, if it is plastic, it could show signs of unnatural rounding. It the faucet handle had a 'sloppy' feel to it, this is the problem area. The only solution is to replace the cartridge.
At this point, slide the handle back on, get the flat part of the cartridge lined up with the mating part of the handle, and screw the nut on until it is tight. Tight in this case is very tight, without tools. A wet paper towel, or rubber jar opener can be use to get a grip on the cap, but not more than that.
Move the handle on and off a few times, the cap should turn with the handle, and not just sit there.
Turn the handle to what you think is off, crack the valves a bit, to make sure that things still seem leak free. Then open the valves, test the handle again, to make sure there are no leaks and the cap is turning with the handle.
If all goes well, celebrate with a glass of water. :)
A couple of notes, since you are digging around there anyway, and the faucet is a few years old, replacing the cartridge is not a bad thought. Directions from the manufacture's web site are below.
Cartridge come in a hundred styles, it seems. You can find 3rd party ones at big box places, and this might be a bit high end for your local hardware store, but I give them all the business I can. Or you can order the oem one from the mfg, or somewhere online. With faucet cartridges, you get what you pay for.
Check the cap a few times over the next couple of weeks, to see if it is unscrewing itself again.
If it is, and you feel comfortable with it, you can remove the cap and use 1 or 2 drops of - Purple - Loctite. If you still have problems, or insist on more power the - Blue - would be ok.
Best of luck, I will do my best to answer questions, or learn from error that you find in my answer.

Below is a cut and paste from:  http://products.whitehauscollection.com/home/technical/

Cartridge Replacement

Shut off water under sink. Open handle to relieve pressure
Unscrew cap by hand, rubber jar opener or strap wrench may help
Handle and cap come off together
Unscrew lock nut on cartridge
Lift cartridge out of body and inspect inner body for Debris before installing new cartridge. (A tiny bit of Silicone Grease on bottom of washer is ok)
Small nub on bottom of cartridge will fit into little climate body – replace lock nut, make snug.


Which types of decking are easiest to maintain?

If budget is not a concern, you could go mahogany or teak.

If budget is a concern, I happen to like the look of the faux-wood polymer decking "boards" such as the PVC ones from Lowes. I'm sure there are several other brands/types, too.


What is the proper insulation assembly for porch

Answer from local contractor "Use 1 inch or greater XPS.  By itself in the walls it is a vapor barrier.  Space it away from exterior wall so there is an air gap.  For ceiling, used foil faced XPS, foil side down.towards interior space."


Can I use setting joint compound to fix a a plaster ceiling with metal mesh lath?

I would use the faster setting durabond mix it a little dryer than what you would use on walls and press it into the metal. The faster setting is a harder to sand but it will hold up and look fine when painted. My mom's house has the steel mesh with cement, It is really hard to work with because the cement eats the metal disks and the metal eats the cement cutting wheels. But it holds up better than wood lath.
If you have any areas that are sagging from water damage I have had good luck adding some 2x4 between rafters, breaking the cement (or plaster in your case) and pulling the mesh up with screws then putting in fresh durabond 20 or 30 minute fast setting. I did this shortly after my dad passed and it still looks great after 20 years.


Retroffiting buried pipes that carry hot water?

A fairly common approach these days is to make a box from rigid polystyrene (12-25mm thick) and fill it with closed-cell spray foam (polyurethane.) Don't forget to separate the pipes with more insulation - in many of these systems the double-pipe run is too closely connected and acts as a heat exchanger - not only does the hot supply drop in temperature, the cold return rises in temperature from house to heat-source.

That heat is not technically lost, but it's also not useful/available for heating the house. But you might want to measure it and see how much you are really losing, if that changes your mind about digging up the whole pipe run.

This foam box and spray foam approach does not require cutting the pipes, nor doing a completely new installation - just digging for access.

The box, in cross-section, would look like an "E" laid down flat - you put one pipe in each channel and fill the rest of the channel with spray foam - most people put a foam lid on the box ("E|") after applying the spray foam, and then backfill.


I agree with Ed Beal. But yes, there are 2 ways to do this & they're equal in strength, for what's planning to be done. However, get a Permit from the Building Dept., so they can approve or correct the design, fasteners & supporting post(s) dimensions & footings. Plus, they can record that the patio was converted to a porch.

1st way is to do ledgers on both fasciae into structural members. Typically you'd pre-build the new structure so the short rafters are end screwed or nailed through the blue-line's ledger & the long lower beam & top ledger are through the side ledger (rafter). Also, use joist hanger type connectors to ensure nothing can pull away from each other.

2nd way is really the proper way & is likely what the one contractor was talking about. You'd remove both fasciae & screw or nail directly into the structure. For the slope side this is much less important. But, the blue-line top would have the new rafters cantilevered or sistered onto the home's existing rafters. This is much more secure & even lets you re-use both fasciae.


The overflow tube empties into the bowl. When the bowl water level rises to  certain point, water starts going down the drain. You can verify this by pushing your float down in a full tank. You'll notice that the level in the tank rises but the level in the bowl rises too. You can see water entering the bowl usually from the rim. Water can only get to the drain by going into the bowl first.
(Picture from Home Tips)


What is this metal plate in front of wooden joist for? Can I drill through?

I wouldn't drill it. It's probably a truss splice plate. Can you get in the attic and look to see if it wraps up the sides of the bottom chord?


What kind of board can span 16 ft for a wall pergola

Here is the answer to my actual question:

http://awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc

Edit: Sorry if I'm not on the same wavelengths as anyone else.  I already know about insurance and inspectors, and that was not at all what I was asking about.  I just wanted to know what length of wood would span a certain distance given various criteria.  I would have expected an answer to that question, instead of all the "your a dumb homeowner who's going to get in trouble" type replies.  I question the idea that there will be 50psf of weight from snow given the fact that it is an almost non-solid top, and saw no real attempt to answer my question, so I had to come up with this.  It took me awhile to find, and I hope it helps others.


Plumbing - two cold water pressure tanks, both with bladders - low flow second floor

I think you have two completely separate issues that you became aware of at the same time, and which are mostly unrelated.

Improperly set system and air pressures in bladder tanks.

A note - the higher the system pressure, the less water storage (drawdown) in a bladder tank. So you might get better performance from a 40/60 or 30/50 setting.

You are also at risk of damaging the bladders by underfilling the air for the pressure you have set on the water side. The bladder becomes much more distended than it's designed to be, and lots of water simply sits in the tank with the effective volume of the tank greatly reduced, since the first water to enter the tank is raising its air pressure from your too low setting to where the pressure switch is set, and shrinking the air bubble to do that.

Low pressure on the second floor bathrooms is probably from a blockage.

Pressure due to elevation is 2.3 feet per PSI, so pressure on the second floor due to elevation is probably not really the issue  (might be 8-10 PSI less than the basement in a typical house) and of course it worked fine until you drained the system; so it's not "really" pressure loss, in the sense of the pressure in the pipes - IMPE it is often the case that when you drain and refill a water system "crud" (usually harmless, but unappealing, deposits from the water) in the pipes gets knocked loose with all the bubbles passing through and will plug shower heads and aerators - that does cause pressure loss OUT of the showers and sinks. Try removing shower heads and aerators, cleaning them, and blowing the pipes clear without having them in place.

I would suggest draining the system again, verifying that the air pressure is still 38 (if not you may have a leaky bladder) and resetting the pressure switch to 40/60 (with a typical pressure switch, be sure to turn the pump breaker off before adjusting.) Then remove all showerheads and aerators, repressurize the system, and blow the pipes clear before reinstalling the cleaned showerheads and aerators.


How to attach horizontal bar to a wooden wall?

Wooden wall? Pretty rare that walls are made of wood. Are you talking about the molding around the doorway?

The following diagram shows a typical way that a door might be framed:

Every door is a little different, so you need to determine how your door is framed. Your goal is to get the provided lag bolts to go at least 3.5 cm into solid wood. (I would not use those anchors unless you were fastening the bar to a brick or concrete wall.)

In all probability it will be impossible to get the bolts deep enough into solid wood because the spacing of the framing elements will not match your bolt holes. Also, the molding on the door may interfere with the mounting.

So, to get your bar right where you want it, you will need to add a mounting header, which is a thick board (or two thin boards) which is attached to the wall, and then the bar is screwed into that board. Your mounting header should ideally be between 5 and 6 cm thick.

Generally, what you have to do is make exploratory drill holes to discover where the door's framing members are. Once you know that, you can plan to cut and attach your mounting header appropriately. To attach your mounting header, you will need long lag bolts because they have to go through the header, through the plaster and any lathe and then deeply into the framing member. So, your lag bolts need to be 10-12 cm long and should have washers.

I should mention that normally, at least in the US, chinup bars of that type are designed with bolt holes 16 inches apart so that they will mate with wall studs which are normally spaced at that distance. The bar is intended to be mounted to a wall, not above a door.


Do I need soffit vents for my knee wall attic?

Soffit vents ensure a continuous flow of outside air on the underside of your roof.

In cold climates, this prevents two critical issues. First, from condensation on the underside of the roof from moist air in your home or from earlier in the day that has made its way into the attic. And second, from snow that falls on the roof from melting at the top, and refreezing further down creating an ice dam that causes melt water to backup into your roof and ultimately into your home.

In warm climates, the main benefit is to cool the attic space to reduce your heating costs. Some building products break down in extreme heat. Insulation in your ceiling is only slowing the transmission of heat, but when you have a 120°F attic, you'll have a lot more heat transferring through the insulation than if it is only 80°F.

That said, older homes, and those built in warmer climates are less likely to have soffit vents. Between the gable vents and ridge vents, you likely have enough ventilation for your climate (not that more wouldn't be better).

For more details on roof vents, see tester's fantastic blog post.


Is sealant recommended/required over receptacle or other ceiling fixtures located in attic?

No sealant is required but the cutout for the box needs to be tight (not a large oversized hole) the cover plate makes the seal. The lights usually have a trim ring that seals any small gaps between the fixture.


How should I install a thermostat for a baseboard heater?

In most thermostat installation guides, it's recommended to install the thermostat on an interior wall across from the heater.  If you trace the existing wires, it's possible the thermostat will end up above the heater. This is not ideal, and could lead to a poorly heated room.  You might get lucky, but in most cases there are a couple more appropriate options.
Use the heater as junction point
There should be an area of the heater used to make electrical connections. If this area is large enough, you can use it to extend the supply conductors out to the thermostat and back.

To do this...

Turn off the power to the circuit at the breaker/fuse box, and insure it's off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Run 2 new cables (4 wires, 6 if the circuit has grounding conductors) from the heater to the thermostat location.
Disconnect the supply conductors from the heater.
Using twist-on wire connectors (or any approved means), connect the supply conductors to one set of conductors leading to the thermostat.
Connect the other set of conductors from the thermostat to the heater.
Make the connections at the thermostat.
Turn the power back on, and enjoy.

Pull all new cable
The other option is to pull all new cable.

To do this...

Turn off the power to the circuit at the breaker/fuse box, and insure it's off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Pull a cable from the breaker/fuse panel to the thermostat location.
Pull a cable from the thermostat location to the heater.
Disconnect the existing cable from the heater, and remove the cable.
Connect the new cable to the heater.
Make the connections at the thermostat.
Connect the new cable in the breaker/fuse panel to the breaker/fuse used previously.
Turn the power back on, and enjoy.


how easy is it to install and american light in the UK?

Issues

Bulbs will be 120V not 240V and will die as soon as connected. In worst case may shower you with broken glass (unlikely but a remote possibility). You will have to fit UK 240V light bulbs instead - they are available with Edison Screw fitting (marked ES or E27).
Fitting won't conform to UK standards. This shouldn't be an issue, legally, as you are not reselling them.

The kit appears to contain exposed extraneous metal parts that are not earthed - this is regarded as unsafe in the UK and contravenes UK standards. I would drill and tap for screwed earth connection and check for low resistance path from tips of metal parts back to new earth connection.
Kit includes US wire nuts. Not used in UK, probably rated for 120V not 240V. Better to replace with a set of connectors rated for UK use.
Kit includes wire. Insulation may only be rated for 120V not 240V. Might be better to replace with wire rated for 240V.

Is designed to mount to US ceiling boxes - you might need to improvise.
It might be worth checking with your home insurance company whether they will cover fire or accidents related to this fitting.


It appears that the original knockout was removed but a safety plug/cap was put on the pipe and not removed before gluing up.  Can you get a pair needle nose pliers in that little notch and see if you pull up on it?
I would drive a screw into it, leave it and tie a string to the screw. Take a Dremel or some other rotary tool and cut around the perimeter , or a razor knife or a small chisel and hammer.
The screw/string will keep the cut out part from falling down the drain.


How can I treat these green spots on my hot tub?

The green stuff appears to be algae. It is most likely growing there because that area gets wet occasionally with the treated pool water but then is left exposed to the air without the water present.

The way to control that on most hot tubs attached to a pool would be to normally set the water diverter valves at the pool pump to circulate the pool water through the hot tub and then to the pool. Pools that I've had experience with will still permit some of the daily pool pump circulation to go to jets in the pool proper. If you keep the chemical balance in the pool correct the flow of treated water should control algae growth. (BTW I think only testing and adjusting your pool chemical state every three weeks is far too long of interval. This should be done every week so you can stay on top of things when climate conditions change).

With persistent growth like showing in your picture you may be faced with having to do a direct cleaning of that area after applying some algaecide. The chemicals may require selection as some types are designed for specific colors of algae (yellow, black, green, brown etc).


Basement Bathroom Rough-In Configuration

I think you don't "have to" break up the concrete.

Let's say your shower/tub extends out 30inches.  Whether you have to break up concrete around shower pan or for tub depends on what you install.  The last few pans I installed in basements met above grade -slightly.  Also note that you will have to find a pan/tub that fits those exact dimensions or you will have to move it or make your own pan.  Breaking concrete and moving the PVC over a few inches is a very DIY job.
Based on the 30 inches above you would have 15.5" to shower from toilet and per your picture 14.5" on the other side.  You would have to check with your local inspector but this would pass where I live.  It will be kind of tight but not terrible.  Toilets are about 15 inches wide so you are going out 7.5 inches on each side.  So you have about 6-7" on each side - most towns require 6" by me.  When you add in your drywall you are getting very close but still within most regulations.
You put up privacy wall that extend past vertical pipe.  I would frame this wall with 2x6 so plumbing access is easier.  Pop a vanity on opposite side of toilet and you are all set.

This had to be the configuration that was previously given to your town if the work was permitted.  I suggest you ask them for any paperwork associated with it.  I know I have to give detailed sketches before any rough-ins so as long as they did things the right way there is probably a sketch of your bathroom.

My opinion... Toilet space is kind of tight but not horrible.  I have seen toilets 1 inch from walls.  You still crap in them.  This isn't as bad.  I like the layout though.  One person can take a crap without being in the other person's face.  Note that having this privacy wall will trap moisture so you better have a good vent fan by the shower/toilet.  I like it.  If you are tight on space I would try to work with this.  If you can add space then I might think about moving the vertical stack over a few inches - really an hour or two of work at most.


Inner deck guardrail posts and deck framing connectors

"Does this imply the carriage bolts and blocking is enough to ensure structural integrity of the joist framing?"

From what you show in the illustrations, yes.
The installation of the carriage bolts & blocking ensure the structural integrity, and, if you install them carefully, replace the function of the framing angle bracket.


Can I add an exterior outlet by tapping an adjacent interior outlet?

Generally speaking, this is OK. Bedroom receptacles do not need to be on dedicated circuits, so adding another receptacle to the circuit is not, in and of itself, a problem. But there are a few things to watch out for:
15A vs. 20A?
Your bedroom receptacle might be on a 15A circuit or a 20A circuit. If the electric grill only needs a 15A circuit then there is no problem. However, if it needs a 20A circuit and you only have a 15A circuit available then you need to replace the breaker (usually very easy) but you also need to make sure that all wiring on the circuit is 12 AWG or larger, which is unlikely because if it was then there would have been no reason NOT to have had a 20A breaker in the first place. If any of the wiring is 14 AWG then you can't upgrade to 20A without replacing the wiring. If the circuit has even a few hundred watts of constant use - e.g., a desktop computer - then you may find that the circuit does not have enough capacity to run the electric grill and the usual loads at the same time.
Don't remove the receptacle
You may be tempted to remove the existing receptacle and simply splice the wires in the junction box using wire nuts. Most likely you can't do that because of requirements for, generally speaking, receptacles along every wall. So either pigtail to add new wires for the outside receptacle, or use the second set of screws on the receptacle if not already in use.
GFCI
Bedroom receptacles typically require AFCI (though if it is an older house then they will likely not have AFCI) but do not normally require GFCI protection. Outside receptacles require GFCI. You can replace the breaker with a AFCI/GFCI breaker, replace the bedroom receptacle with a GFCI/receptacle and put the new receptacle wires on the LOAD screws, or install a GFCI/receptacle outside. Installing GFCI outside is the simplest solution, but subjects the GFCI to weather - hot/cold/wet - which shortens the life of the GFCI electronics.
Weather Resistance
An outdoor receptacle should be weather resistant and have an in-use cover.


Why do Contractor Levels have two vials with the same orientation?

It's useful when using the level in the vertical direction (to e.g., check studs for plumb-ness) so that the bubble is at or near eye level no matter which end is up.


Sure you can but how much running back and forth do you want to do trying to reset this? I have been called to a home the owner put multiple GFCI’s in and he could not get power to the devices because of tripping. I would not add AFCI protection to an outdoor circuit as these normally are running electric devices with motors , saws, mowers, drills etc. AFCI’s don’t play well with motor loads and if you decide to add that breaker remove the GFCI outlet or you may not have much luck at tools working on that circuit.


How can I replace an Armstrong Astro 20B pump?

From looking this pump over and viewing the PDF documents on their website, the one major installation directive is that it must be installed with the shaft in a horizontal position.

The Impeller housing can be installed in any position required by the plumbing installation by removing it from the pump motor and reassembling the pump with the terminal box on top so it's mounted at the highest point so water leakage will not intrude.

The motor and water seal are contained in the motor housing with the fiberglass reinforced polypropylene impeller being attached to the motor shaft. Some sort of epdm gasket is used between the pump body and the motor assembly.

As long as the pump body is free of corrosion, especially on the gasket surface and you can get the motor assembly and gasket from the manufacturer, what you propose should be feasible. The impeller is plastic and therefore not likely to damage the bronze or cast-iron pump body.

Being dry run for a couple hours would burn out the water seal and possibly, the motor bearings.


how to remove soap stain from granite countertop

Automatic dishwasher soap will strip paint.

If hot water doesn't move the mark then the surface finish is damaged.


Is it necessary to get a kitchen fire extinguisher if I have an ABC rated one already?

An ABC extinguisher should be safe for all three classes of fire. It may not be be the most effective possible choice, or the easiest to clean up after. Depending on what you think the hazards are, how willing you are to fight them, what experience you have, how badly you panic (as opposed to, for example, smothering the fire with a pot lid), and how much cleanup is going to aggravate you, a more specialized extinguisher may be a cheap and effective investment.

Anything that reduces hesitation, or time fetching the extinguisher, is a good thing.


Why don't I have hot water after shutting off the water supply for a while?

On the upper thermostat, there is a sensor that would trip if the water got too hot inside of the tank, BEFORE the TP valve would blow off (which we assume didn't happen because you didn't mention it). It's called an Energy Cut Off (ECO) switch. There is a red button on it. Open the upper access panel, you should see it there. Push the red button and if you hear it "click", it was tripped and it should work again after that. If not, or it doesn't click, it's something else. If it trips again really soon after resetting, an element was damaged.

And it's 240V, but it is 6,000 watts...


Is there any code regarding in-wall convection ovens?

A stand alone appliance will always come under Underwriters Laboratories jurisdiction.  The manufacturer's install instruction will dictate proper guidelines. If a local inspector is involved he can and sometimes does ask for this literature and check things out.  Involving a convection oven, I would rigidly follow these instructions and even might error on the side of caution.


What's this hammer drill accessory and what does it do?

I'm fairly sure this is a bit holder made by a company called Wera: Rapidaptor Bit Holders

I think it's 897/4 R Rapidaptor BiTorsion universal bit holder on that page.


Oil's no good, water will wash it away, use silicone grease.  You may be able to grease it up without taking it apart. Turn the water off, then lift the handle all the way up. Put a bit of grease on housing exposed when the handle is lifted, use a cotton swab to get into the gaps. Exercise the handle up and down and see if that gets rid of the squeak. If that doesn't work you are going to have to take it apart (look for an explosion diagram of your faucet online), take lots of photos and keep the parts in plastic containers to make sure you don't lose anything. Check the condition of the washers as worn washers may cause binding, hence a squeak. When putting it back together grease the parts that rub against one another as you go. Don't go overboard on the grease, a little goes a long way.

One word of caution: before taking anything apart it's important to realize that you may not be able to get it together again, and may require that you replace the faucet entirely. Some units are not meant to be maintained, may have plastic pieces that break and you can't get them back together, or may have proprietary washers or other parts that you can't buy replacements for. If it's broken already then you lose nothing by trying of course.


Can I mount a smoke alarm using magnets?

Smoke detectors should not be mounted within 12" of the corner of the wall.

The air movement in the corner is practically nil thus rendering the detector useless. It needs air movement through the unit to work.


Are directTV dishes energized in some way?

Yes, satellite dishes are frequently powered by DC current over the coax connection. The DC power comes from a "line power inserter" which will attach somewhere to the coax before it reaches the TV's. It may be a single connection or a splitter as well, but either design will connect to an outlet.

Edit: As others have mentioned in the comments below, the injector may also be built into your set top box.


Does a grounding wire from a breaker panel to an outside grounding rod need to be in conduit?

Exposed ground wires are normal. In the last year I've seen a main panel and 2 subpanels approved with exposed ground wires. They were 6ga stranded.