What's a good way to install a threaded valve so that it can easily be replaced?

You'll need a fitting that allows rotation so the threaded fitting can be made up or disassembled. You may also need something that allows expansion/contraction of the assembly, if the layout of your piping (or the fact of it being buried in soil) prevents the piping itself from moving enough.
Unions are one such fitting. Normally you'd need to use a union on each side of the valve, though if the pipes can move around a fair amount, a single union could do.

Another possibility is a slip repair coupling. These telescope several inches and rotate freely. Attach a threaded adapter to one or both ends as needed for your system. You might consider this to be even easier to use than a union for several reasons. For example, alignment isn't a problem and the telescoping feature gives a significant amount of room to work. They're also small enough that the pipe wrench you already have will work -- unions, especially those made of PVC, tend to have a very large-diameter nut. Another nice thing is that the body of this fitting could be buried outside your valve box -- only the inner telescoping piece needs to be pulled into the valve box.

One other option is a left-right coupler/nipple set. This is a nipple and a coupler that each have a normal right-hand pipe thread on one end and a left-hand pipe thread on the other end. These are almost like magic. When a normal threaded coupler is rotated one end would grow tighter while the other end grows looser. The left-right coupler tightens or loosens both ends at the same time. These are usually used for gas service inside a building, but I don't see a reason why they couldn't be used for landscape water outdoors.

Thanks to supplyhouse.com for the representative photos.


Need to level OSB board for LVP, pros and cons of using roofing shingles?

I think it would totally impossible to get good results using that method. LVT is pretty flexible. I've remodeled a rental house and personally (not a contractor) installed LVT.  It turned out pretty good, but I did need a leveling compound for part of the floor.   Our church also replaced a bunch of carpet in the hallways with LVT and the installer missed a bit of debris here and there and even tiny bits telegraph thru and you can see it.
The method you are asking about mentioned hardwoods which is a totally different ball game. With LVT, I'm sure you'd end up with a wavy, ugly mess on your hands using shingles.
Why is the OSB not "level"? Water damage? poor installation? You may not needs as much leveling compound as you think just to at least hit the worst parts.   Hard to know without pics and more info.


can i use an inline exhaust to vent a kitchen and bathroom?

International Mechanical Code 2012

  Chapter 4 Ventilation

  Section 401 General

  401.1 Scope.
  This chapter shall govern the ventilation of spaces within a building intended to be occupied. Mechanical exhaust systems, including exhaust systems serving clothes dryers and cooking appliances; hazardous exhaust systems; dust, stock and refuse conveyor systems; subslab soil exhaust systems; smoke control systems; energy recovery ventilation systems and other systems specified in Section 502 shall comply with Chapter 5.

  Chapter 5 Exhaust Systems

  Section 505 Domestic Kitchen Exhaust Equipment

  505.1 Domestic systems.
  Where domestic range hoods and domestic appliances equipped with downdraft exhaust are located within dwelling units, such hoods and appliances shall discharge to the outdoors through sheet metal ducts constructed of galvanized steel, stainless steel, aluminum or copper. Such ducts shall have smooth inner walls, shall be air tight, shall be equipped with a backdraft damper, and shall be independent of all other exhaust systems.

Chapter 4 says you cannot use the same ducting for ventilation, as you do for your range exhaust.  Chapter 5 is quite explicit in what materials should be used for the range exhaust ducting, and also says that the ducting cannot be shared.  If you're using the ventilation ducting between two or more spaces, you'll have to be sure the fan and ducting are both adequate to move the amount of air required.  you'll also have to insure there is an adequate supply of makeup air.

NOTE: Local codes may vary. Contact your local government for all applicable codes.


Rebuilding an exterior deck is it better to use screws or nails?

Not the best answer, but:

Use screws on the top boards where people will be walking barefoot.  Every kid has had a wicked gash from nails (naturally) poking up a bit.

Use big a** nails to attach your cross beams to your main structure.  Nails are only good at holding against a shear, i.e. nails should always be (and only be) parallel with the ground.

Use large lag screws to hold together your 4x4(?) frame, the main, big parts.

Your deck will experience changes in temperature and the wood and fasteners will not adjust at the same rate.  You want some give in a deck because of this.  You also want some give because of the sporadic forces that humans will put on it.  Nails provide some give.  Screws provide absolutely no give; they will destroy the wood around before they back out.

Putting screws on the "floor boards" will wear out the boards faster, but in my opinion that is the sacrifice to prevent injuring the fragile humans.

Please also see this question.  Those people are much smarter and concise than me.


How can I remove these screws from shutters?

Have you tried just pulling the screw?  If it is a plug anchor it should just pull right out with moderate force. If it is a toggle-like anchor (where something expands behind the wood), try pulling the screw until it feels tight, then hold the anchor with a pair of pliars and try turning the screw.

Worst case just cut the screw off with a pair of tin snips, a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel, etc. Once the screw head is off you can probably just push the rest of the screw and anchor into the void behind the wall.


What could cause corrosion in a water heater?

The long copper pipe, is that the discharge pipe? If moisture collects at the end of it, it can become acidic and cause corrosion. You may want to test the acidity of your water, but in general discharge pipe corrosion is not too much of a concern.

The other pipes, however, seem to be suffering from galvanic corrosion which occurs when you have different metals connected to each other. Normally this is prevented by installing a plastic insert between the two metals so they do not contact each other. You may want to do this the next time the water heater is replaced.


Stair thread different color from old runner carpet

What you're actually seeing is the polyurethane that's been exposed has ambered ( turned yellowish ). Sadly, that's a byproduct of using oil based polyurethane. Now that the center is exposed it will eventually amber as well.

If it really bothers you, you could try sanding the treads just enough to remove the existing finish. Just be careful not to sand thru the stain. Then clean the treads, with a rag lightly dampened with water or paint thinner, to remove any dust left behind. Finally recoat with fresh polyurethane. I'd recommend at least 3 coats with a light sanding in-between each coat to remove any bumps or bubbles and to give the next coat something to grab and stick to.


There is probably a switch just outside the bathroom.

If this is rented accommodation your friend would have to ask the landlord's permission to get any changes made.

There won't be an "actual plug" underneath the cover. That's just a fixed-wiring outlet called a fused connection unit (FCU).

You might be able to add a pull-switch (cord to ceiling-mounted switch). This would probably be safest.

You could probably replace the FCU with a switched version (SFCU) if the outlet is outside the zones specified in the regs. It has to be at least a specified distance from the bath, sink etc.

You may be able to get IP44 rated SFCUs.


I need to Mount a 55" Sony TV on a Wood paneling wall w/no studs

It sounds like you have solid 13/16" thick plywood for a wall. If that is the case, I'd drill holes matching holes in the mount all the way through, get four metal bolts, four matching nuts and eight washers, and hang the mount on the wall, securing with nuts from the opposite side of the wall and using threadlocker on bolt threads. You would have nuts permanently visible on the back side but the construction should be more than sturdy enough to hold a 40 lb TV.

If you don't have solid plywood but something else (I doubt that there's enough room for anything else but who knows?), that's a different story. You should find out as soon as you drill the first hole.


Can I replace the power cord on an old electric drier, to fit my outlet?

If you mean that the cord has too many, or not enough prongs to fit in the receptacle.  You can buy the appropriate cord at any big box home improvement, hardware, or online store.

Once you have the cord, search the internet for the manufacturer's documentation for the appliance.  Then follow the instructions for how to connect the new cord to the appliance.


What could cause a clicking sound in an underfloor heating controller?

I called a number of Central Heating contractors and also Uponor, the company that makes the controller.

I was told that the clicking noise comes from the soft-fuses inside the controller trying to reset. They said box has failed and needs to be replaced by an electrician. Since the controller is the simplest model in their range, there are no diagnostic LEDs or other features that indicate a fault status, except the clicking noise of the soft-fuse.

The repair should only be about an hours labour plus cost of a new controller box.


If the paint is peeling off the wood surface then most likely there was a problem with how the cabinet was prepared for the paint or with the paint itself.  Painting any surface located in a kitchen takes more effort and attention to details when prepping it for paint. As you already know grease from cooking that becomes airborne in water vapor will adhere to wall surfaces and accumulate over time. For proper paint adhesion it must be removed through scrubbing with a de-greaser-type cleaner. Most commonly used is the cleaner labeled or containing "TSP" (Tri-Sodium Phosphate). Added to warm water and applied with a sponge (or sponge mop) the cleaner easily cuts through greasy build-up. Rinse the applicator often and then re-wipe with fresh clean water to remove any residue.  Since the cabinets are already peeling it will be hard to hide the edge of the paint with a new coat. You can try sanding the edge to "feather" or angle the transition so when another coat is applied it may be less noticeable. But I would guess since the wood hadn't been prepared you will continue to have peeling issues. It may be wise to start anew by sanding all the door faces to remove new paint, clean with TSP and prime and finish coat.


run compact dishwasher drain pipe into kitchen sink

The reason for the high loop or air gap in dishwasher drains when installed below the counter are because of the risk of drain water being pushed back into the dishwasher. If you have a clog in the sink and don't have that high loop, water can drain into the dishwasher and flood out your kitchen. So with a countertop dishwasher, I don't see the need for the high loop since the drain hose is already above the level of the countertop.


If you have easy-ish access to the outside, I'd clean as much of the detritus away, patch the hole with plexiglass (perspex) and copious amounts of silicone caulk. Then install a triangular chunk of exterior plywood (painted both sides and all edges). Flash and caulk as much as possible. Attach as possible through the window frame.

On the interior, more plexiglass and caulk to seal the interior side. Then a skin of painted (both sides, all edges) exterior plywood (preferably with a smooth face) all the way across the window. Attach as possible to the window frame. Attach a bit of molding at the bottom if there's a gap you dislike. Caulk the heck out of it in an attempt to keep moisture from passing through.

For what it's worth, vent fans like this have a reason for existing. Everything above could be tweaked to allow for the install of a new unit. (Just remember where the hole was.)


Blue and yellow are 0v and 24v, since blue is fed to the stat, the yellow is 0v for the "C" connection.


Will a breaker protect its circuit if there's a larger wire upstream?

The breaker doesn't know about the heating of the wire.
The breaker has its own internal "specimen wire" that is in series with the wall wire.  It is measuring how fast its "specimen wire" heats up, and will trip at the appropriate time.
Literally, the "specimen wire" is a bi-metal strip, which provides both the sense and the muscle to pull the hammer on the breaker trip.


Is this how I add GFCI and Regular Outlet to existing Multi Wire Branch Circuit, 20amp? 12/3 to 12/2 wiring with GFCI

The fact that it is a multiwire branch circuit may have been allowed in the past I don’t remember but think it may have been ok.
Today the laundry branch circuit is a required circuit and it is a dedicated circuit and can have no other receptacles so it would not be code compliant by today’s code or many code revisions back to add the GFCI receptacle even if properly wired.


You say, “less than 4’ wide.” Therefore, only 2 joists At 16” oc could be supported by the header.

Generally, short spans are limited by shear, not bending. Your “box header” will support about 800 - 1200 lbs. per linear foot, depending on the species, grade, etc. of the wood. Can you fill in some info?

You say, “two story home.”  What rests on that bearing wall and header? (1 floor, 2 floors, 2 floors and a roof?) What is the span of the joists that rest on the header?


How should I run power wiring and Cat-5 to the perimeter of my huge yard?

Trenches are hard/expensive.

Conduit is inexpensive. Having dug the hard and/or expensive trench, investing a tiny bit into having conduit in the trench so you never have to dig that trench again is just sense.

Direct burial is silly. It's especially silly the second time, when conduit the first time would mean no need to dig again. It's a short-term savings that often isn't even a savings (conduit + wet-rated outdoor wire is not infrequently less expensive than direct burial outdoor wire.) You do need wet-rated outdoor wire - all conduits outside are assumed by code to be wet, and the assumption is usually correct - condensate will do it if nothing else does.

Depending on what security cameras you get, ethernet can be the power wiring (PoE cameras)


You could certainly perforate the lower section of the sump basin with small holes (1/4 inch/6mm or less would be my preference, but some might go twice/3 times as large - depends in part what you are bedding it in)

Outside the basin, you'd want washed stone (depending on soil type, possibly filter fabric and washed stone)

Inside the basin, a concrete paver is a suitable pump support. Don't put anything else in there that would make cleaning more difficult.

In my personal experience, pick a submersible sump pump - all the ones I've met have been much more reliable than the pedestal style pumps. To get the most out of whatever pump you buy, don't cheap out on the pipe size - plastic pipe is cheap, no good reason to reduce 2 inch threads to 1-1/2 inch pipe, but I see it all the time - even 1 inch pipe; don't do that - stick with whatever size the outlet on the pump is for best efficiency. And make sure it discharges far enough away from the building - I've met quite a few that pump the same water in circles, from inside to outside, where it comes back inside, to be pumped back outside...

Also, run the pipe straight up as high as it needs to go from the pump, then slope it towards the drain at 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch per foot (or 10mm per meter.)

If you are concerned about pumping rate, you can either try to come up with some sort of test flow (difficult unless the weather cooperates) or simply mount the pump to one side, so that you can add a second pump a few inches higher (use two pavers) if the first proves inadequate when the rains come. If you already have a pump in the old sump, start with that and see how it does.


Can I upgrade to a dimmer switch in my bathroom without using the ground conductor?

The ground, presuming it is actually electrically the grounding conductor and not being misused (illegally) as a neutral, should be pigtailed and connected to both switches.

However: it is difficult to see what the actual connections on the second switch (black/bare) are. If it is a functioning switch and only has the black and bare wires connected to it, then the bare wire must be a live wire in the switch loop. If this is true, then it is both illegal and dangerous to humans and must be fixed.

The fix depends on what is really going on in this box, which is still difficult to tell from the pictures.

You could, for instance, have a single circuit supplying switch loop current on one wire and feeding two different loads through the other two wires. This would be fine. You would just pigtail the incoming live wire to both switches, and pigtail the ground to both switches and to the box.

There are too many unknowns and we really do need to see better pictures of the switches, and pictures of the wiring on the other end (in the ceiling box[es]).


Can I install wiring in the space used by a sealed air duct and PVC water supply lines?

Yes you can run electric in any interior wall.  You cannot run electric inside of water supply lines, inside duct, or attach electric to either.

The cavity you describe is common in a lot of house layouts.  I have a 8 foot section that is about 12 inches wide in the middle of my house.  It has duct work, main stack and tons of plumbing, with plenty of electric too.


Recommendation for a light duty screwdriver with a precise clutch

The request for a "precise" clutch would appear to indicate a "torque screwdriver" which are widely available in "manual-operated" form but which can, due to precision (and probably low sales volume as well) be fairly expensive. I have a Sturtevant/Richmont torque screwdriver (purchased used) for that purpose. There are others...

Looking for those characteristics in a power-tool form is both overkill for any use other than an assembly line and even more expensive. For most things where you just need to assemble without destroying, learning to use a manual screwdriver is all that's required. The Torque screwdriver is for things like electrical connectors that have a specified torque range that needs to be hit with some precision.


I have a similar setup, but in my case, it's screen doors, so very lightweight in comparison to yours.  I may be wrong, but I don't think you can repair individual hinges on that type of door. I think you're going to be needing to replace the entire hinge rail on that side.  This component is also known as a Z-bar.  You should try to determine the manufacturer of your door, and then you can check with them to see if they sell replacement Z-bars for your door - they run anywhere from $30-$60, depending on size.  Here's a URL to an example replacement part for a brand that appears to be similar to your design: https://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/door-window-hardware/storm-door-replacement-parts/survivor-80-aluminum-storm-door-hinge-side-z-bar/71922/p-1444423382755.htm  Good luck!


Is this a valid layout for a stairwell light?

@AndyMcKenna No, the way you have the switches wired will not work correctly. If you look at your new switches there should have 3 terminal screws. There should be two copper looking screw(traveler wires), setting across from one another, and one dark screw(power in and power to the fixture) at the bottom of the switch by itself.

  Warning: You'll be working around live electrical wires during this procedure. If you don't feel comfortable doing so, please contact a local licensed Electrician.

    For this example I am going to use the wire color you used in your picture.

You show the white/neutral wire going straight to the light this is correct. FYI the white/neutral wires could go through the switch boxes so do not mix the wires up.
Determine which switch has power coming in from the panel, you can do this with a Non-contact voltage tester or a Voltage Meter. Try to identify the wires as you go with tape or wire numbers.
After you have identified the power from the panel turn off the breaker.
At Switch #1, where the power comes in from the panel. This is your home-run switch and you terminate the Black wire on the darker screw. This is your power in from the panel. The Red wire terminates to one of copper screw and the White wire terminates on the other copper screw. These wires are your traveler wires, they lead to the other switch.
At Switch #2 The Red wire terminates to one of copper screw and the White wire terminates on the other copper screw. The Black wire on the darker screw. This is your power to your fixture.

As for adding switches, unless the power is at the box you want to add to, you will be just adding a switched switch, meaning that until the switch gets power it will not work.


It is hard to imagine a surge causing a leak .However, a surge can damage the motor and that can often require replacing the compressor. Modern refrigerators usually have some kind of electrical protection to prevent motor damage. Several years ago I had a GE that was damaged by a surge; In that case the "start" capacitor was burned out but it was outside the compressor so I could replace it for several dollars. That could be your situation.


HVAC electric thermostat panel "goes dead" and then live again all the time

Sounds like a problem with the thermostat itself. Try replacing the batteries - and make sure you're using alkaline or NiMH batteries -- not "Heavy duty" (which drop off slowly, and are not good for electronics - or anything, really).

If the batteries are good, you likely have a defective thermostat. See if they'll replace it on warranty (quick reading of the 1 star reviews on amazon say this can be a hassle) or buy a new one.


Fixing porcelain sink with crack and rusting drain

Look on the market for plastic covering: you'll only have to replace the drain and seal the new plastic 'sink-in-sink' over the existing sink. I find them often for bathtubs but exists also for sinks.


It can be kind of hard to tell from photos.

Your house plans (blueprints) would tell you for sure, presuming the house was built faithfully to the plans. You really should have a good look at the plans, or get somebody knowledgeable to look at this in person. Or both.

Do you know which direction the joists are running? Floor and ceiling joists will be perpendicular to the load bearing walls (or beams!), not parallel to them. If the joists pass across the top of the wall (or beam) unbroken, then the wall is possibly not load-bearing, depending on your joists, the length of the span after you remove the wall, and the load on the floor above.

If the ends of the joists are resting on the wall or beam, then it is definitely load-bearing.

if there isn't another floor above this one, and you have engineered, prefabricated trusses holding up your roof, this won't be load-bearing. The trusses are engineered to handle the load of the roof by themselves. If they aren't engineered trusses, that doesn't apply.

Is the long common wall of the living room/dining room/kitchen directly on top of (parallel with) the long wall downstairs, and is the opening between the dining and living rooms perpendicular to that long wall downstairs? It looks like the photos might be from different directions? If so, then the common wall with the kitchen is probably the load-bearing wall, and the opening between the living and dining rooms may or may not be, depending on how the joists are laid out.

But you really should look at the plans or get somebody knowledgeable to take a look in person.


Figure 1. Most likely original circuit.

If you were really fortunate the live feed to the thermostat would have originated at the original switch. You could then have connected it directly to your new controller. Judging by the photos there is only one live wire so this isn't the case.

Figure 2. New live feed.

Options:

Get a new live feed from the original breaker to the controller.
Break through the wall and restore the original connection.
Try to find the wires above ceiling by lifting floor in the room above or in the attic. Isolate the power, cut the wires and join them together again.


Will my ceiling hold an over the popcorn solution?

I do believe your ceiling would support the added weight of the shiplap. For an actual confirmation you really need to consult an engineer or possibly a truss manufacturer  who can run the calculations for the additional weight you intend to add.
I do not see going directly over the popcorn with your shiplap. If you really insist on leaving it, then perhaps attach a flat 2x4 (preferable) or 1x4 screwed to the bottom chord of the trusses and attach your shiplap to that. It seems a tongue and groove would be better than a shiplap- with the addition of construction glue you could blind nail the T&G.
Truthfully, the removal of the popcorn seems an easier/ cleaner option.The un-eveness and the length of fastener necessary to soundly attach the shiplap seem likely to cause more difficulty than removing the popcorn.


How to calculate CFM/pressure needed to move water vapor through duct?

Propeller fans aren't really good at producing any static pressure. They can move air quietly but as soon as they see any restriction air flow stops. Your basically making a remote mount fan assist humidifier.

I'm not sure if it would fit your application but if you have return air present, why not use it's draw to pull the vapour out of your box?

Use a short duct length connected positively to the return air register by using a boot to maximize surface area.

I know you said the vent is far away so another method would be to pipe a supply duct into the box and pipe the other side to the return.

Otherwise you will probably need a  squirrel cage type of blower. Noise moving air increases with increasing static pressure, think Dyson air blade hand dryers.

I answered this in a hurry this morning. To follow up. Calculating output cfm requires specialty tools. Basically it measures feet per minute, does a little math based on technician inputs and spits out a number.

The math is as follows

cfm=fpm x pi r²

Assume 10 feet per minute

Pi =3.14

r=radius for a 6" diameter pipe r = 3"

So (3x3)3.14=28.26

1 square foot 12"x12"=144

144/28.26=5.09

So 5.09x10(feet per minute) =50.9cfm


Can I add insulation to the top of my oven range (under the drip pans)

Maybe with a sheet of aluminum on top of it to prevent drippings from saturating the insulation (which would cause a fire hazard)  However, you could cause the top steel of the oven to overheat and damage the finish.  And if a fire started and burned the house down if they discover the oven was modified your homeowners insurance may not pay out.  There are all kinds of liability risks to modifying a power appliance.  Since this is a cheap electric oven you can get a much better one for not much money used off craigslist.
However, we have a pretty expensive range ourselves my wife has melted plastic by accident on top of it.  I just handed her a razor blade scraper and told her plastic and cooking do not mix.  It only happened once. :-)


A reason for this may be your pots and pans. A glass cooktop works best with flat bottomed pans. This gives better heat transfer into the pan from the cooktop.

Take a straightedge, and place it against the bottom of your pans. If they are deeply dished or they are warped, then you may need a new set of pans.


This type of shifting/sticking isn't uncommon with doors. Sometimes it's settling, other times it might be temperature or moisture causing swelling.
First, check the hinges and make sure that the screws are in tight. If you didn't check the door jamb on all four sides, do that.
If the door isn't closing against the stop in the door frame, check to see where it's hanging up. It could be weatherstripping or the door/frame may need sanding or planing in one or two spots.
If the door is meeting the stop on the frame evenly and the door still won't lock you may need to adjust the strike plate. You need to determine if the bolt is hitting high, low or off to the side. If you can't tell put a bit of lipstick or other colorant on the end of the bolt, shut the door and engage the bolt. You'll see a mark on the strike plate where it hit. If it's only minor interference you can use a metal file or Dremel tool to shave off enough metal from the plate to get the lock working. In most cases that will solve the problem. Otherwise you may have to shift the strike plate.


Installing wall shelves- Crumbling walls

Walls aren't made out of solid plaster. Plaster is merely a coating. If its hard and 'crumbling' all the way through, my guess is it's a masonry block (or brick) wall coated in plaster. Knowing what region of the world you live in may help us narrow down the potential building technique for you.

If it is masonry, there are two things you need to do:

1) Make sure it's not a party wall. Party walls are fire walls and you may not be allowed to drill into them to begin with.

2) Invest in masonry drill bits and masonry anchor screws.


Can I install two GFCI receptacles on a multiwire branch circuit?

I'm not sure what the codes are like in Canada, but here in the US the only problem you'll have is that you're using two separate breakers. Thought the problem can be overcome by installing a handle tie, to link the breakers together.

As for wiring the GFCIs, a diagram can be found in this answer.


Assuming the drill you have is working properly, you may have dull or worn bits. A masonry bit does not last long, especially in concrete or brick. Cheap bits are no bargain. Start with a new bit, when the speed of boring slows to about half or less, time for a new bit.


Well, here's what I think you've got.   You know that the lamp in Box A works and once you traced the wires it was easy to chase it back from that.

The wiremold surface conduit brings power (always-hot and neutral) into the system.

Nut 3 is neutral, using (very bizarrely) blue for neutral.  Which is the standard in Europe (though they prefer a robin's egg blue) - not legal in North America (white or gray please).

Oddball colors like that are possible in conduit (such as this surface mount) since they are THHN individual wires.  Possibly the other wires are multiconductor cable (NM Romex or metallic AC) always black-white.

Nut 2 is switched-hot for your lamp.  Black is a legal color for switched-hot (or any hot) but red is ideal.

Nut 1 is always-hot.  Note that it's using a white wire in the switch loop, which is actually a Code requirement when using multiconductor cable like NM or AC however the wire must be taped to identify it as a hot.

In this diagram, I go well past the mandatory markings to mark every wire with "tape" whose native color doesn't match its function.  All these markings are legal except the blue wire - neutrals must be natively white or gray (even in cable), and blue here is a code violation that isn't fixed by marking it.

My guess is before the condoization, it was powered at the light switch off a circuit that served other areas of the office which are now part of other dwelling units.  That breaker would've been in someone else's condo, which violates Code.  This work was done competently by an old-head who knew what he was doing... except the blue wire! Perhaps a European immigrant...

As for grounding, I would pop the cover off the "surface conduit starter box" over on the right wall, and see what's behind it.  If you see a steel junction box with tubular conduit feeding down to the panel, that EMT or IMC or rigid conduit is a valid grounding path.  The back of the box will have a hole tapped #10-32, I'd get a ground screw (they sell them at electrical supply by the one, or big-box by the ten, they're even green so you don't mix them up with general hardware) and some #12 bare ground wire, and bring it to each of the junction boxes via the Wiremold surface conduit.


Should I use 14/2 Romex or Armored Cable between plaster attic ceiling and exterior roof?

The National Electrical Code requires you to maintain 1 ¼" spacing back from the edges of framing members.

  *300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. Where sub-
  ject to physical damage, conductors, raceways, and cables
  shall be protected.

  (A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.

  (1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations,
  where a cable or raceway-type wiring method is installed
  through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members,
  holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less
  than 32 mm (1 ¼") from the nearest edge of the wood
  member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the
  cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by
  screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least
  1.6 mm (1/16" in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width
  installed to cover the area of the wiring.

  Exception No. 1: Steel plates shall not be required to
  protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit,
  rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.

  Exception No. 2: A listed and marked steel plate less than
  1.6 mm (1/16" in.) thick that provides equal or better protec-
  tion against nail or screw penetration shall be permitted.

So if you drill through the center of your 2x6" rafters you are complying with the NEC.

However, if you are worried about future damage to your wiring from roofers, you could use armored cable. But if a responsible, licensed, insured roofer is hired they should use the proper length nails and there shouldn't be any threat to you cables.

If you really want to overbuild it use rigid pipe and wire and rest easy when the roofers come.


Old light fixture has 3 sets of black, white and copper. It keeps tripping breaker when installed. Not sure what to do

one of those white wires goes to the switch
one of those black wires comes from the switch
You need to figure out which is which and connect the white wire goes to to the switch to the black wires (this white wire should have black paint or tape on it)
connect the black wire that comes from the switch to the lamp, and (using a short piece of wire) connect the other white wires to the other lamp terminal.


Certainly parts like thermocouples, gas valves, fans, fan speed regulators, spark ignitors, etc. can be found generically and installed.  In many cases you might need to make a small change to the part, like drilling a new hole for mounting.  In more extreme cases, you might need a specific trades person to manufacture a replacement part for you.

You mentioned that your logs are missing - these are ultimately just ceramic logs and I doubt any specific manufacture is doing something that would make them completely incompatible with another manufacture fireplace.  Whether they will fit or not is really the only question here.

But I would be seriously suspicious of someone who tells you that you need to spend 10k to replace something just because the manufacture is out of business.  This is very common, and unless something is seriously wrong, I very much doubt you need to replace the entire unit.  Even if this were the case, I would strongly recommend you shop around and ensure you are getting a fair price.


Can I use a sander or grinder to polish quartz countertop edges?

I have only used tools designed specifically for this purpose. For example, Makita makes a stone polishing tool. It looks like an angle grinder, but it has different attachments, variable speed control, and a built in water supply. I am not sure if you can dry sand the quartz, I would imagine it would be extremely dusty. If you're going to wet-sand, you'd have to find a way to protect the surrounding area from water spray.
I think a significant difference between a regular angle grinder and a polisher is the speed. The tool I mentioned earlier can vary speed between 2000 and 4000 rpm, while single speed angle grinders run at a constant, typically higher RPM in the 5000-10000 range. If your angle grinder has variable speed, it might be OK.
And yes, you would want to use stone polishing disks instead of regular sand paper. You would probably wear through the sand paper rather quickly. You can easily find kits of these online for less then $50. They would include all the steps you need (50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1500, 3000 for example). If you're just doing these edges, you will barely use the pads and can maybe even sell them to someone looking to do a similar project when you're done.


Why do I have multiple connections on a single common connection?

The wiring in the switch box isn't only for the switches.  It is also carrying supply power onward to other points of use.  That is the reason for the extra wires coming off COM.

This would be easier to understand if the 3 brown wires you drew terminated in a block just like the neutrals, and then 2 pigtails from the block went on to feed the two switches on their COM side.

Pretend it's like that, or get blocks and pigtails and make it actually like that.


You're looking for a Door Shoe

A Door Sweep

Or a Threshold with a vinyl seal

Or a combination of these.

These products are typically used to weather seal an exterior door from the elements, but should work just as well in your situation. They should all be available at your local home improvement store.


So driving these posts into the marsh was essentially impossible by hand. 4x4's might have worked, but even that would have been extremely difficult.

I ended up buying helical screw piles and these worked great. Still a ton of work, but all it took was some leverage with a long 2x4 to get them in.


That would violate the listing of the equipment

The meter-main you are looking at (the MC0816B1400RLTM) is configured so that the factory-fitted 200A breaker is fitted into the panel interior, with its lugs connected to one of the two sets of jumper wires from the meter base to the breakers, in effect being used as a backfed main for that interior.

Changing this factory configuration would void the equipment's listing, which would cause serious AHJ heartburn in just about all cases, and calling UL/ETL/... out to your place for a field examination is generally cost prohibitive for anything that's not a piece of heavy industrial equipment.  So, you can't make the changes you propose.

However, your concern is addressable in other ways

I would not call your scenario a huge concern in the grand scheme of things, though.  Unless it's the well pump house itself on fire, then the FD can just as easily cut power to individual buildings with your meter-main hardware as they can to the whole lot.  Having a main disconnect for the panel section makes it much easier to work on the equipment safely, as well.

The one caveat, though, is this means that the sub-feed lugs in your meter-main can only be used to subfeed a panel on the meter rack that sources feeders through breakers, not to provide a tap or feeder to a separate structure.  The practical implications of this are that the house cannot have any more than a 200A feeder without restructuring the metering hardware; this is not normally an issue in configurations like this, as long as no massive current hogs such as oversized heat-pump auxiliary heaters or large electric tankless water heaters show up.  (There are better solutions to the problems one would try to solve with such hardware, as well.)

The resulting configuration

The configuration that results is basically identical to your existing configuration, save for the fact that the 200A panel section is fed via its factory main breaker instead of its lugs, as depicted in your second illustration.  This provides us with two means of disconnect (well within the rule-of-six), and allows for independent shutoff of any of the feeders or loads, as well as a global cutoff for everything aside from the main house.

The bad news, though, is that if the 100A breaker feeds the main house, it would violate NEC 225.30 about the number of supplies to the building.  Having it feed the guest house (ADU) is fine as it would then count under either 225.30(B) point 1 or 225.30(D), but that feeder cannot feed anything in the main house as a result of feeding the ADU, at least under a strict interpretation of NEC 210.25(A).

Since you are able to get the house to run on 200A, though, that means you can go ahead with what you are describing as long as you maintain a strict electrical separation between the circuits for the main house and the circuits for the guest house.  Note that grounds lighting loads cannot be fed from either the main house or the guest house under this strict interpretation of 210.25; they would have to be fed either from the pumphouse panel or directly from a breaker in the meter-main.

Go big or go home!

As to the subpanels involved, there is no reason whatsoever to skimp on them; for a house this size, I would consider a 200A, 42-space, main breaker panel a bare minimum, with 54-space or 60-space options readily on the table despite their extra cost over 42-space units.  If space allows, you could even "go for broke" and do two 42-space panels (one main breaker, the other main lug) daisy-chained together with a subfeed lug block and a short stretch of feeder wiring, giving you 80 spaces for about the same price as 54 or 60 costs.

The pumphouse and guest-house/ADU panels, then, can be 30-space, 125A, main breaker panels; these are relatively inexpensive and provide plenty of room for expansion.  The main breaker, by the way, simply serves as a shutoff in this case, so it can be larger than the feeder breaker in the meter-main without raising any issues.

As to those feeder wires...

While the factory wiring inside your meter-main is THW, and likely copper as well, this has no bearing on what types of wires are legal to terminate on it in the field; it simply needs to be treated as an integral part of the equipment in this case.  The 20A circuit is probably best run as THHN/THWN in a short conduit (nipple?) run.  However, for large feeders, the wire of choice is XHHW-2 compact stranded aluminum; it's far cheaper than copper at these large sizes, does not pose the hazards that aluminum branch-circuit wires did back in the bad old days, and is more robust to temperature excursions, water, and such than THWN is.

Of course, you need something to protect the wires as they are run underground, and for this we use conduit.  In easy soil conditions, PVC can be trenched in to about 22-24" deep and will last basically forever underground.  If trenching is difficult, one can use rigid metal conduit in a 12" trench; this saves a wire in the conduit, at the expense of more work, and some vulnerability to corrosion.  Either way, you want to use fat conduits here.  A 3" conduit to the main house would not be at all out of place, if only to leave room for a future upgrade to 400A, and I would run 2" conduits to the guest-house and pumphouse as well if I were in your shoes.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

One new requirement for the 2017 NEC is found in 110.14(D), and it requires that a calibrated torque tool (wrench or screwdriver) be used on all equipment that has torque values for its screws or lugs labeled on it.  Even if your local authority having jurisdiction does not enforce this, it's still a very good idea so that your electrical system doesn't give you the loose lugnut.

Postscript: What if it turns out the main house does need over 200A?

In a case like this where the main house did need over 200A, we'd have to turn to a different set of hardware than what you propose in your question, especially given that you have a remotely located meter-main, which takes the typical way it's done (with 2 200A breakers in the meter-main feeding independent subpanels) off the table.

Instead, I would use a 400A meter-loadcenter with a single main breaker, and then use two subfeed lug blocks in parallel to feed a 400A disconnect for the main house. Since breaker coordination is generally not feasible without specific engineering study anyway, you don't lose much by not having a 400A OCPD dedicated to the main house feeder. This also gains you the ability to disconnect the main house without losing power to the pumphouse, or the ADU for that matter, while still having a single "kill all the power" switch available if need be.

If we are to stay with your theme of Siemens hardware, I would go with a MC2442B1400SDL for the meter-main to provide a single main disconnect as well as spaces for the subfeed lugs and the remaining feeder breakers, and a HNF365RA for the disconnect for the main house.  With this, we use a KO punch to put a 2" KO in the bottom of the right side of the meter-main box and the bottom of the left side of the switch enclosure, and connect the pair of ECLK225 subfeed lugs in the main panel to the line lugs on the disconnect switch with a 2" rigid conduit nipple and 4/0 Al wires, two per pole, run lug-to-lug.  The switch also gets a HG656A ground bar kit to provide a place for the feeder EGC to land, by the way, as it needs to have its bonding screw pulled if present.


Mounting to an old pan-style electric box

How annoying!  OK get a set of drills and start sticking drill bits up through those holes -- butt end first.  We just need to know the hole size.
Now hit a "Drill and tap" table.  Anytime you tap a thread into a hole, you drill the hole to the smaller size (tips of the threads).  Go to the table under "Fine thread bolts" and find the fine-thread size whose drill size is slightly bigger than the holes you have.   Buy the correct drill and tap, drill, and tap.
Now you have what you thought you had in the first place.
You need to use fine-thread because coarse-thread won't have enough purchase.


Can I have an electric dryer, a washer, furnace, and gas water heater all in one laundry room?

Only issue I can see is where the makeup air comes from. The washer doesn't matter, but if the dryer, furnace, and water heater all turn on at the same time, they each need air input. Putting everything in one room can cause an issue where it's easier to suck air through the output of another appliance than suck air from inside the house, and that can leave carbon monoxide inside the house.

The input air can come from inside the house (in which case there should be some sort of vent in the door or something), or outside (in which case you should be able to see the vent.)

I would also highly suggest installing a carbon monoxide alarm somewhere in the home if not already present, and testing it if it exists already. This is general advice whenever gas appliances are in use.


Volt meters are rated in mega ohms per volt. Most meters today are at least 1M ohm with many being 10M this so the meter won't load the circuit and provide an inaccurate reading. Since the impedance of the meter is so high it can detect voltage with almost no potential or what we call phantom voltage. There are low Z or low impedance meters out there that put enough of a load that phantom voltages won't be read, but in electronics trouble shooting low Z meters affect the circuit that's why most meters are high impedance.


How can I fix the electrical hookup on my new electric oven?

Your description of red, black and conduit indicates that you do not have neutral but just ground via conduit. That is NOT a good thing. A little background:

Ovens, cooktops, etc. typically need 240V for heating elements but 120V for lights and controls. In order to get 120V, you need a neutral wire (normally white).

In the old days, there was a neutral but often no ground. So ground would piggyback on neutral. That was OK from the perspective of normal usage but a bit problematic if things go wrong in certain ways. So now (actually for many years), a 4-wire connection - hot, hot, neutral, ground (ground can be via metal conduit though, doesn't have to be an actual wire) is required.

But often stoves (and dryers) are still hooked up to a 3-wire connection. A 3-wire connection wouldn't be so bad if it were "ground piggybacked on neutral". But you have the opposite - neutral piggybacked on ground. That is not a good thing.

The solution is to install a proper cable. It must be the right size for the breaker & device (that would probably be 8 AWG) and include two hots, neutral and ground. Alternatively, if you are running individual wires in metal conduit with the conduit acting as ground then you can use three individual wires, two hots and neutral.

Updating based on pictures:

You have a 4-wire connection on the oven. However, there is a "copper bridge" to connect neutral (white) and ground (green screw). You could do that in the old days. But current code says you should:

Have a 3-wires + ground connection. Ground can be green or bare (including possibly the conduit itself) but it neutral can not be green. So that means you need to add a white wire for connecting to the white terminal on the oven.
Remove the "copper bridge". That is a must. The instructions discuss using the copper bridge for the situation where you don't have a separate ground and instead rely on neutral. But in your case, you don't have a separate neutral and instead are relying on ground! You can't do that!

Run a new white wire through the conduit. Remove the copper bridge. Connect black, red, white, green to matching places on the oven. Then see if there are any remaining problems. But the current installation (no neutral) is WRONG.

I found the official installation instructions (PDF). Follow the 4-wire instructions in step 6, not 3-wire step 5.

What is a bit strange, which I don't quite understand, is that the 4-wire instructions for a Power Cord specifically say "Cut and discard the ground strap." But the 4-wire instructions for Conduit do NOT say to do that.


Help me understand this sub panel wiring

Orange wire looks like Orion NZ Ripple Signal.  Used to manage peak load and related things. Have a look over this link:
Orion Ripple Signal Guide

As far as the grounded neutral I suspect this is a main panel (nz “switchboard”) and not a sub-panel


Do I have to remove the old thinset before installing new tile?

Like Greebo says, you want to get back down to the concrete, but I'd suggest that more to have a flat surface to build on top of. To make the job go faster, you can use a power tool. Several would get the job done:

Power Chisel (best fit for the job):

Air Hammer (you'd need a high capacity air compressor):

Demo Hammer (more power than you need, but it could be useful for other jobs in the future):

MC Hammer (don't touch this):


Where does my C wire go in this splice connection?

Based on the images and your comments, I would say that the wire splice you are holding in the first image with the thick brown and thin red wire would be where you want to connect your C wire.  Blue is the typical color to use, and I believe you have an unused blue wire going to your thermostat that will work (the cable with the unused blue and brown should be the thermostat wiring).

The thin red wire in that bundle and the thin white wire from that yellow/white splice go to the "cooling unit relay" from the schematic.  So the thin red would be the "common" side of the cooling relay and the white would get voltage from the thermostat.


How do I install an in-wall tank (wall-hung toilet) with the stack in the way?

The simple answer to your dilemma is that you have two choices..either relocate the toilet location to one side of the vent stack - or - to route the vent stack pipe around the place the 'in-wall' components are mounted.

On top of that if your stud spacing is not now 25-3/8" you may be doing some framing work in your wall anyway.


Rent or purchase an engine hoist. The definition of a small easy to move hoist, and pretty inexpensive, with some level of engineering built in (while you can still hurt yourself with improper use, at least you remove one area of hurting yourself with improper kludging of a lifting mechanism.)

They store pretty compactly and most can be easily taken apart for easier moving or storage in pieces. They have wheels, though small wheels will require some sort of base to run on or they are useless. Planks can provide that base on dirt, or you can not worry about moving it with a load on.

Never put yourself in a position where the thing you are lifting will crush you if it slips free (especially with rocks, which can be hard to get a reliable grip on.)


How do I ground my LED retrofit in a ceiling can?

Warranty? For 3), cut the ring connector. Don't cut a hunk out, just split it. Use dykes. Then you can bend it (like a key ring spreads) around the bolt and when you tighten it, it will flatten out again as a ring and won't fall off. But that's not the most secure place to connect (i.e., the height adjustment screws don't tighten very tight). Any other location for securing this connection to the can is probably a better choice (e.g., for 2), use self-tapping screw next to the hole that's too large).


How to reinforce brick pavers driveway edge?

Use a dry mix of about 60/40 Portland cement and masonry sand or bags of playground sand. ( You may need to adjust mix) I use a drill with a stirring paddle and a 5 gallon bucket. Remove 4 or 5 rows back remove original underlayment replace with mix and replace pavers.  Spraying some water on mix right before laying pavers will help it bond faster.  Remove and replace small sections so that you keep everything in place. I would also stack the pavers I remove so that they go back into there original place. I would not use concrete because of the aggregate. Take your time and good luck.


The basic answer is that since this window is already set in the wall the interior framing that you are adding does not provide structural support of the wall over, under and along the sides of the window.

On the other hand you may want to consider how the interior trim and furnishings will be applied. If you intend to apply a wide casing around the window then do consider that having doubled framing around the window can be very nice for nailing into. This can also be very nice above and to the top sides if you intend to install wall mounted drapery rods or bars.


How do I approach new water stains on my ceiling?

I have had several calls since Irene for similar problems on roofs that had previously had no leaks.  As most have already said, the first step is to get up in the attic for a visual inspection.  I would remove the insulation over the stained area to check for damp insulation and allow the ceiling drywall to dry completely.  Look straight up over the stain area on rafters or trussed for any signs of water staining.  You may get lucky and be able to trace a stain trail to the source of the leak. It is not uncommon that in a storm with wind driven rain for water to be forced uphill into a ridge vent, then track down a framing member. If this is the case, it was an isolated incident and no repair may be needed.  However if the winds lifted a few shingles or damaged the seals around vent pipes etc., some simple repairs may solve the problem.

A word of caution, if you call in a professional roofer, get more than one opinion.  It is very common in that trade to try to up sell uninformed home owners on a whole new roof at around $350 per 100 sq foot, rather than just offer a simple inexpensive repair. I would try to find a reputable general contractor in your area that will work with you as you learn more about home ownership and give you expert advise and recommend reputable tradesmen for roofing, plumbing, electrical etc., as needed. The best way to find such a resource is by referral from other homeowners or friends. Rarely will a really good GC advertise, as they are too busy already and get plenty of work from referrals from their customer base. Sometimes you can chat with a project pro at a local building materials center, even a Home Depot or Lowes and they may give up the names of a couple of good, well respected home maintenance general contractors.


Fiberglass insulation (the pink fluffy stuff) is a skin irritant and not great to breath either.  Keeping it in thick plastic garbage bags would be ok - unless the bags rip it you use really thin plastic bags.

A better idea would be styrofoam insulation.  It comes in big sheets you could cut to wedge perfectly in a window frame.  It does not have the same problems of being an irritant.


what ground cover to use under bike storage shelter?

Are you able to put down bricks or cobblestones?  Or Pre-cast concrete pavers?

Ideally you want a hard surface that won't be muddy in the rain, and will allow rainwater to drain off.  It should therefore stand slightly higher than the nearest drain.

Bicycles aren't heavy, but you still want a flat base layer of compacted sand to support the pavers/bricks, to prevent them moving and cracking.  The base layer would need to resist washing out in rain too.   A good base layer helps keep all your pavers/bricks level to prevent trip hazard.

Lastly, you will want some way to lock up your bikes too, which probably means some kind of hasp or loop or shackle to secure your bike's lock.  I'd also put hooks in the inside for things like helmets and wet coats.


Blower fan works w/ a/c “auto”, not with heat “auto”

Bad Blower Motor Coil
Furnaces typically have multispeed blower motors, and use different speeds for different modes.  If the coil for the speed the heat uses is dead, that would cause the problem you're seeing.
You can use an ohmmeter (or multimeter set to measure resistance) to check if the motor coils are good.  You'll have to measure the resistance of each coil (while isolated from the rest of the system), and compare the results to the manufacturer's listed values.
Bad Control Board
There are a few things that could go wrong on the control board, that could lead to the issue you're seeing. The first thing to do, is to determine if power is ever getting sent to the motor at all.

THIS IS DANGEROUS
Since you'll be working on a live HVAC system, this testing can be dangerous.  If you're not comfortable, please contact a local licensed
HVAC technician.

Set your multimeter to measure AC voltage, and connect the common lead to the neutral terminal on the system.  Hold the door lockout switch in, so that the system will try to fire. Once the burners ignite, listen closely to hear any relays closing.
Most furnaces use timers to delay the blower, to allow the heat exchanger to heat up. Once the preset delay has elapsed, a contact should close and send power to the HEAT terminal on the control board.
Put the other lead of your multimeter on the HEAT terminal, and see if you get a voltage reading. If you do, then the problem is with the motor or the wiring to the motor. Check all connections, to make sure they are clean and secure.  If you don't read voltage, you'll have to either troubleshoot the control board, or simply replace it.


how to install drawer slides but are scraping against drawer?

1/16" is going to make a difference here. Very small margins.

Don't rely on those metal flaps as shims. If you need shims, use shims.

You have not done anything wrong, you've just entered the PITA adjustment phase. Higher-quality hardware has adjustments which can be made after the hardware is installed. These slides are not that. You are fortunate that your problem is the width and not vertical because you'd hate to have to move the glide 1/16" up or down - the screw would keep getting sucked into the old hole.

Take it apart and flatten out those "shims." Then put it back together and try it. Based on the math, it won't be quite right. Add 1/16" shims to both sides and try that. If you have measured correctly this far, you'll be done. Obviously if it doesn't work, try 1/16" shim on only one side. Get some serious shim material that you can measure and which won't compress. And whatever you do, don't strip the holes with all of the in and out.

Whatever that other answer said about support in the front does not apply. These glides don't need support. If they require support it's not done properly.


garage door handle disconnected from lock

I would take it apart and see what is broken. Unfortunately these days it hard to just replace the broken part. Much faster would be to take it apart and walk in the store and get a complete new assembly which is around $50. If u take it with you they can make sure you get the right one.


It would appear to be a Pfister Marielle LF49 without the base escutcheon:
Here

Pfister has great customer support, and a lifetime warranty on their products, so I would recommend that you phone them and describe the issue.  1-800-pfaucet


The main problem, if any, assuming the solder band is complete and without flaws or gaps is if there's too much solder on the pipe and you cannot insert it into the fitting. The pipe is "tinned" or coated with solder, and there's nothing wrong with that.

The usual approach to making sure that the coating is thin enough is to wipe it down (while the solder is molten) with a rag - easiest if done when you heat it up to take it apart, but you can heat it up again and do that if the fitting won't seat properly as it is. That should leave it thin and nearly mirror-shiny, which is what you want. Caution is needed as you are dealing with hot, molten metal.

The basic secrets of soldering are that things should be physically clean (shiny metal) chemically clean (use appropriate flux) and not overheated (too much heat burns off the flux and solder won't wet the newly-oxidized surfaces.) The silvery solder is perfectly fine shiny metal. Dull gray solder needs to be cleaned up, but there's no need to go to copper.


Looking at different images may help you determine the species. Keep in mind I'm not a wood expert, and wood being a natural material will vary widely.
Oak
Oak tends to have a bold tight grain

Ash
Ash tends to have a bold semi-tight grain.

Hickory
Hickory tends to have a more subtle longer grain.

Maple
Maple tends to have a subtle semi-tight grain.

Bamboo
Bamboo tends to have a long straight tight grain.

The next question is to determine if it's solid, engineered, or locking. The best way to figure this out, is to look at the ends of a plank.
Solid
If it's solid, it will look like a solid block of wood.

Engineered
If it's engineered, it will look like the edge of a plywood sheet (a bunch of thin layers of wood).

Locking
Locking will tend to be thinner, look more like Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) or plywood from the side, and will have a funny looking tongue that locks with the adjacent plank.


Shutting off water during extra-long term vacancy

There's nothing wrong with shutting off the water for that length of time provided you take the proper precautions. The water in all your traps for the sinks, toilets and showers will evaporate and allow sewer gas and bugs to get into your condo. They should be adequately sealed to prevent this. If you have a water heater, you should drain it and shut off the breaker if it's electric. Drain the water from your fridge, and very importantly use tape or something else to ensure the door is slightly ajar the entire time (otherwise you get terrible stink).
Have your maintenance department shut off the water from outside your unit so a leaky valve won't be your problem.
Or, hire a management company and let it be listed on AirBnB.


Hardibacker seems to draw moisture out of thinset?

The actual HardiBacker installation instructions (page 5) for tile do say to wipe the surface clean "with a damp sponge":

Wipe the surface of HardieBacker® cement board clean with a damp sponge just prior to adding mastic or mortar.

This 2006 forum discussion also seems to anecdotally back up that wetting HardieBacker first is a known "must do":

Hardi is thirsty, thirsty, thirsty. It tends to suck moisture out of thinset NOW and makes working time difficult. Kinda like laying wallpaper on un-sized plaster walls.

and

Dry backerboard will suck water out of mortar like a sponge. If too much is removed the final bond becomes very weak.


There should be no problem with this, as long as you've installed the breaker properly.

Read and understand all of the included manufacturers documentation.
Connect the grounded (neutral) pigtail from the breaker to the neutral/ground bar in the panel.
Connect the grounded (neutral) circuit conductor to the neutral (silver) terminal on the GFCI breaker.
Connect the ungrounded (hot) circuit conductors to the hot (brass) terminals on the GFCI breaker (one conductor per terminal).

If the breaker will not set, there are a few things that can be wrong.

The breaker is faulty.
There's a ground-fault in the circuit.
There's a short-circuit in the circuit.
The circuit is overloaded.


what is proper way to use spring washer and washer

The purpose of the flat washer is spread out the clamping force over a sufficient area of the material being clamped and to prevent the lock washer from tearing into the material as the nut is being turned. Given the small sizes of the bolt heads in your pictures I would say that you should have two flat washers on each bolt in addition to the spring washer.

The order should be bolt head, flat washer, materials being clamped, flat washer, spring washer, nut. If you only have one flat washer per bolt, and if the material next to the bolt head is sufficiently hard to resist deformation, then the one flat washer should be on the nut side.


How do I repair water-damaged hardwood floors?

I had a similar problem in a home I used to own - we pulled up the carpets and found that there were spots where the floor was black underneath.

We sanded the floors to remove the varnish, and then used bleach to fix the discoloration in the hardwood floor.  It turned out really well.

Here are more detailed instructions: http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/how-to-bleach-stains-on-wood-floors.shtml

Do not breathe in the bleach fumes!

P.S.  Let the wood dry before starting this.


How can I rewire a three-wire ceiling fan installation where there is a two-wire set up?

pull the third wire (same gauge) through the same conduit from the fan to the switch. It possible that the conduit isn't large enough for another wire and you'll need to upgrade it. Use either red or black but make sure you can distinguish the 2 lives (like if you end up with 2 blacks you label that wire at both ends).

You then either need a second switch so one controls the light and the other the fan. Or if it is pullcord operated then the new wire will need to always live; just hook it up before the switch.


Upgrading apartment: GFCI/AFCI breakers and wires

AFCI vs GFCI

You're using AFCI/GFCI interchangeably like they're "Thing 1 I don't know what is", and "thing 2 I don't know what is".  Actually, they are not similar.

AFCI protects wiring in the wall from starting fires (and to a far lesser extent, appliance cords).  That may or may not be warranted depending on your wiring, and the scope of your permit/work.
GFCI protects humans from shock.  It needs to protect appliances that plug in anywhere water could be found, and wires that might get wet.

If you saw all the flooding in Houston where the first floor of buildings was flooded out and people were on the 2nd floor with the power on and A/C running, that's because the overhead service drop and panel are on the 2nd floor, and all the 1st floor circuits are on GFCI (and tripped obviously).  Because those places were built to flood.

Scope of AFCI/GFCI

Now in NYC it's common for them to require metal conduit (typically EMT) for all wiring.  Metal conduit is not the use-case for AFCI. Code recognizes this to a limited degree; normally AFCI must be at the service panel, but if it's metal conduit, the AFCI protection can be at the first outlet.  ACFI receps are half the price, probably because there's more room in a recep; flipside is AFCI receps are huge, and that can sometimes be a problem with metal boxes.

Any AFCI device has LOAD terminals and it can protect any downline wiring (and outlets) connected to those LOAD terminals.  Since 90% of the goal of AFCI is to protect wiring, you need to do that, or it would defeat the entire purpose!  If AFCI is mandatory, that is mandatory.  (What NOT to do: have an AFCI recep at every recep outlet).

GFCI devices also have that LOAD feature.  However lots of people don't use it, and that's fine unless the wires themselves have a chance of being flooded or subject to groundwater action (e.g. wiring to a boat dock).  But hey, the feature is free.

Since you are wiring a kitchen, really make a point to have the refrigerator be not on a GFCI or AFCI if avoidable.  Refrigerators are simply not a use-case for GFCI devices.  As far as AFCI, they contribute little when the refrigerator recep is wired in metal conduit.

Questions

  Upgrading the current breaker with AFCI/GFCI breaker is the way to go, correct? I don't see a reason to not upgrade it. Is there a situation where it is not recommended?

Refrigerators and other safety equipment.  Keep in mind these are safety devices (fault detectors) and they will trip if a fault is present.  That seems better now, but it will seem worse when they start tripping due to a fault.

  Is there any recent technology I should consider during this upgrade? I read a little about smart power monitor that is installed in the breaker.

Whole house surge suppressors will become Code when your locality adopts NEC 2020.  The simplest occupy 2 spaces in the panel, except that being in NYC you will probably need the far rarer 3-phase unit which takes 3 spaces.  Electrical upgrades take a lot of spaces.  Get a huge panel to suit - 42 spaces is NOT excessive.

  Considering the breakers will be converted to dual (GFCI + AFCI) protection, would it be OK to leave one or two GFCI/AFCI outlets in place, or it is recommended to replace them with regular outlets since breaker will already be GFCI/AFCI?

Don't need them. They will be redundant to the point of annoyance - you will need to reset them in a particular sequence.

  My conduits are narrow (old). I rewired two places already. A solid wire is very hard to pass. A stranded is much easier. Would it be OK to use stranded in the whole apartment (living, kitchen, bath, etc.)?

99% of my work is in conduit. Solid is a nightmare. I own only stranded #12 wire and I use it for all 15-20A circuits. However, stranded is not allowed in backstabs, and attaching it to screw terminals without it birdcaging is a fine art.  Best to either get the $3 screw-to-clamp receps, or pigtail your receps and switches with bits of solid wire (which I gather you have plenty of).

  I will try to organize the breakers. Currently there is one breaker switching off lights and outlets in different (nearby) areas, I'd like to separate to have better control.

Try to have the lights and receps for a given room be on different circuits.  That way you aren't plunged into the dark when a breaker trips.

  If I want to create new outlets in the bathroom (small bathroom), what would be the recommended procedure: break the wall and use NM-B cable? break the wall and install conduit? not break the wall and just use a wire cover with a waterproof cable like NM-B?

NM-B is not waterproof (where did you get that idea!?) It fails quickly when wet.  Whether you are allowed to use cable wiring methods is decided by your local Electrical Codes.

Rule of thumb: If all the wiring in the facility is in conduit, Code requires that. People don't put in conduit for their health.

  Looking up online, I only find THHN stranded. I could not find THWN stranded wires. Why?

95% of the THHN wire out there is cross-listed both THHN and THWN-2, and meets both standards at the same time.


If it's a drain that actually drains you shouldn't ever need to heat it or melt anything. Well, unless you live in the Arctic or Antarctica. But, even in those places it's just a matter of getting the pipe under the frost line to be totally sure there's never a problem. Any kind of hot-wire would need to be replaced often & therefore would never be worth shorting the frost line.


How can I run a cable past a horizontal block between studs in my wall?

You need a long, flexible auger bit. I have this model and found it invaluable when I need to add a new cable inside the wall. The kit has a 90 degree handle that fits on the shaft and lets you bend it to fit through the wall opening to reach the bottom or top of the stud bay and drill through. This forum page gives a nice rundown and pictures of the bit in use.

There's a eyelet in the bit where you can fasten a cable to pull back through the hole you drilled, too.

The mid-bay 2x4 is a brace. Some walls have them, some don't. I don't know whether that's a builder's decision or building code. None of my walls have them.


Assuming yours is something like this then the bulbs are in parallel, so all you have to do is cut it and isolate/cap the wire ends; do not connect/short these wire ends together.

Oh, and make sure it's de-energized/unplugged when you cut it.


Should I apply a second coat of primer when I have a high contrast in colors and the new paint is thin?

The best thing to do is have the primer tinted close to the paint color you are using.  For a bright orange paint, the best they can do is probably a pastel sherbet orange color for the primer, but that will still be better than just plain white.

Primer tends to cover well, because thats what many people use it for, and it also tends to be a little cheaper than paint.  Use as many coats of primer as needed to completely cover the base coat before starting with the final color paint.

Another point - some colors cover better than others because of the pigment used.  Colors in the red family (including orange) tend to have very bad coverage. Blues and browns cover much better, so you may not have as much trouble with other colors.  In your case I would strongly recommend taking the primer back and having it tinted.  Many places will do this for free - for instance, at Home Depot they don't even have a way to charge you for it if they wanted to.


Flame-retardant polyethylene (6 mil, I think) is commonly used. You'd sort of end up with a double vapor barrier, but since they're tight together it's probably not a problem. It's readily available at building materials suppliers.

Regarding your "ridiculous codes" comment, walls of highly-flammable paper are a genuine safety concern. It ignites much more readily than the paper on the face of drywall, for example, and spreads flame very quickly. Surely you prefer that the occupants have a fighting chance at survival, and those downward-trending lines don't happen by accident.


Mounting TV on Thick Drywall + 1" Stud + Concrete blocks

I don't think it's safe to assume the firing strips (what you are calling studs) were installed in such a way to properly hang a TV. Unless you know for certain otherwise, you shouldn't mount the TV to the firing strips.

I think you have three options.

Find a fastener that can go all the way through your bracket, stud and drywall, and anchor in to the concrete block. Is your concrete block hollow? If so, you can get pre-packaged toggle bolts that are that long.

PROS: Minimal damage to drywall.

CONS: You need to be able to drill a fairly large hole in the block very deep. If you don't have a powerful enough hammer drill or appropriate bits, this can get pricey.
Remove the drywall down to the concrete and firing strips, and install plywood. Use easy to install fasteners like concrete screws (Tapcons) to mount the plywood to the concrete, through the firing strips. And then put drywall over the plywood to get the wall back to the correct thickness. Mount the TV bracket to the plywood using lag bolts.

PROS: Easy to do, comparatively. A regular drill can handle this, but a hammer drill would be better.

CONS: Messy and time consuming. Large drywall repair job when you take the TV down.
Use a spade bit or Forstner to drill a large hole in the drywall down to the firing strips. Then use concrete screws (Tapcons) to securely fasten the firing strips to the concrete block. Your TV bracket can then be screwed using lag bolts directly to the firing strips.

PROS: Minimal damage to drywall. You might be able to do this without a hammer drill.

CONS: You have to use exactly the right lag screw. Too long and the screw will hit the concrete before it's holding the bracket tightly; too short and you risk pull-out.


The Pressure gauge reading cycles between the pump cut-in and cut-out pressures. Sounds like the gauge is dead and permanently stuck at 24psi.

Often, the cut-in and cut-out pressures will be listed on the pressure switch and commonly are 20psi cut-in and 40psi cut-out. So your water pressure on the gauge will cycle between 20 and 40psi during water usage.

The tank has a built-in bladder that is pre-charged to 30psi when your gauge reading is 0psi (pump breaker turned off, water tank drained). There should be a faucet somewhere on the pump manifold system that allows you to drain the pressure tank of water so you can check the bladder air pressure.

To repair the gauge, I would switch the power to the pump off, drain the tank and simultaneously, replace the gauge and check the bladder pressure and top it off if needed. Then power the pump back up.

If there is a lever on the side of the pressure switch (image below), it is a low pressure cutout to prevent the pump from operating if the well runs dry. Pull it up till the pump turns on and hold till the pump stays on (about 10-15psi). With no low pressure cutout, just power the pump on and it will automatically do the rest.

Once you have a working gauge, you can start to determine whether it is a pump pressure supply issue, or if you have something more serious like a restriction in the house supply line or a leak.

Do you have any sort of sedimentation filter in your water system? Sounds like it may have clogged and if a screen, needs flushed or replaced if it's one of those string filters.


What type of gravel should I use to top a sand driveway?

I would use crushed quarry or shale but not crushed river rock. Quarry and shale lock together quite well but crushed river rock moves around.
I would want at least 4” (we put 6” in our horse stalls) and compact it. With rubber mats over the top, it is good and solid even with our warlander (a draft / Andalusian cross 17-2 hands) a big horse.


Well that is close but today the common screw is one color and the other travelers are the same but different color. The store's advice can be right but I have also run into this on switches that were not labeled or color coded. The good thing is it won't hurt anything if the 3 wires are mixed up. If they don't work correctly you can try moving the wires to different screws 2 at a time only a few trys at worst case and it will work correctly I have had to do this for friends that messed up switches and over for dinner was asked for help with no meters or testers and just a screwdriver.


Can I backfill without inspections using sight tubes?

I doubt the existence of any code requirement that an inspector must accept sight tubes. Even if there were, a local authority may simply say "nah, not gonna do it that way." Then what would, what could you do -- a fight over code is seldom truly won by the inspectee.
There are instances when it is literally impossible to visually check the depth of conduit: directional boring, for example. An inspector can see only the entrance and exit pits and has to trust the depth record made by the boring crew (if any was made at all). Other times an inspector may accept a photo of a measuring stick showing the depth. I'm not a full-time professional, but I've had an inspector accept both my directional bored work and my photos of an open trench. The biggest key is to earn their trust by being friendly, direct, and honest. Don't just barely meet code, either. In the case of a buried conduit go an inch or even two deeper than required unless there's a compelling reason not to -- in most conditions it isn't tremendously more work.
You can always try submitting a photo to the inspector. They'll probably respond in one of two ways: "thanks, carry on" or "schedule an appointment for me to see it in person."


You should be able to use that screw terminal for the C wire in the bottom picture.  I assume that the blue wire on the spade terminal goes to the 24v transformer?  It looks like the transformer has a red wire and a blue wire coming off it.  The red wire from the transformer is the "R" and the blue wire would then be the "C" wire.

Looks like an easy hookup - on some older units to have to hunt around more to find a good connection point.


How can I get my shower tiles really clean?

The staining looks like it is from water damage. My guess is it is behind the glaze that coats the face of the tile.  Unfortunetly there is no way to repair this type of damage short of replacing the tile. I have typically seen this on tiles that were cut and improperly grouted. Sealing the grout may prevent it from getting worse or showing up on other tiles.


Quickest way to circulate outside air thru house?

Moving air tends to feel cooler than still air. If you can put up with the noise, the box fan trick works quite well.
In my experience, air movement in the home depends on air movement outdoors; if it's a still evening, even with lots of windows open, you won't get much air. On the flip side, even a small breeze can help.
If you have lots of money and live in an amiable climate (cool, dry nights), buying a modern whole-house fan may be a good fit. Modern units suspend the fan itself from the rafters via an insulated duct, and are much quieter than they used to be.
As Jimmy Fix-it commented, the best thing to do is to try both of your methods.


How to fix gap at the bottom of a door after installing new door bottom

Either replace the vinyl slide on bottom with a brass one that is taller, or

unhang the door by taking it off of its hinges.
Put a 1/2" strip of wood on the bottom (glue works nicely)
Repaint the door
Install the door bottom
Re-hang the door


Maximum weight window air condition without supports?

100 pounds is nothing for a window frame.   Now if you don't have it mounted right you could break, crack or put stress the bottom of the actual window unit.   This isn't a question of weight though, it is a question of how balanced it is and movement.

Is a 100 pound vs 50 pound AC unit more likely to have install issues... probably.


Can I use a small BBQ regulator to reduce propane line pressure from 10 PSI to 11" wc?

No. You can not put the bbq unit 'approved for occasional supervised use' on a 1000 pound propane tank.

We can, however talk about the maximum blood alcohol level of an adult, before he/she is no longer considered capable of 'supervising' a bbq.

dan - the bottle cable just is not designed for what you want to do. I can dig up UL listing information for you. But this is not about 'code', this is honestly concern about you, and your safety.

There are a few things in life that are just not worth saving a bit of money. Health care, electricity and combustible gasses are at the top of that list. There are some things, generic drugs, copper plated electrical load centers, and world series tickets that are not on the 50 yard line, some things are ok.

Doing gas lines on the cheap, please don't.

I can argue for and against what you suggest. I can not stop you from using the bottle tank hose.

You came here looking for advice, mine is don't do this.


What to do with ground wire in a double gang dimmer switch

You don't need to do anything. The switch will pick up ground via the screw heads of the mounting screws.  (this "via the screw heads" trick does NOT work for receptacles).
If you really want to attach the ground wire, then find the screw hole in the back of the box that is tapped 10-32.  That is specifically for a ground screw.  You can't use screws tasked with some other purpose.  You can drill and tap your own #10-32 hole, or you can use a grounding clip on the edge of the box.   Of course you don't have to do any of these things for a switch or self-grounding receptacle.
Now, that thing you're doing with the wood blocks is not allowed.  You cannot make a "box extension" out of wood, because the job of a junction box is to contain fires from electrical arcing.  Wood would only accelerate such a fire.
I gather you have been using wood screws to mount the switches on the wood; instead use 6-32 screws to mount it to the metal.  Further, you will need a metal box cover so the box is fully encapsulated in metal.
If you really, really need the switches to sit prouder than that, you can either rework the box with a taller "mud ring", add a Legrand Wiremold Surface Conduit Starter Box as a 1" box extension, or add something like a Hubbell PTC200GY switch extender, which is made to be a weatherproof outdoor cover for switches (but if you only use it as a spacer, I won't tell :)


Upstairs/downstairs cooling- leave it on or off?

Warm air rises, not vise-versa.  If you are running the A/C on the first floor and leave the upstairs A/C off, then the downstairs unit should not be working all that much harder than it would if the upstairs unit was cooling the upstairs.  So no, cold air is not drawn upstairs by thermal convection.  That does not really happen.

Upstairs unit off and downstairs unit at 78 should reduce your energy bill versus running both the upstairs and downstairs units.

Edit:

There is an exception to what I said above.  Because the upstairs unit must handle the extra heat load that comes from the sun shining on the roof, it is often the case that for equal square footage, the upstairs unit is larger capacity than the downstairs unit.  Also, the cold air from the upstairs unit will flow down to the first floor via thermal convection (cold air sinks).  If your downstairs unit is a bit undersized and your upstairs unit was meant to pick up the slack, then your downstairs unit will not be able to keep the downstairs cool all by itself, but this fact will not make your utility bill any higher than if the upstairs unit was running (unless your downstairs unit is also using large amounts of power from a malfunction and needs to be repaired).


Safe to test circuit breaker is working by overloading it?

A breaker is designed to safely trip out on overload. That being said, anytime you have a breaker trip out on overload you are doing some damage to a breaker and it actually changes some of the breaker specs and properties. Also as mentioned all breakers have time curves that trip breakers under certain conditions. For example if a 20A breaker is loaded to 25A it may take up to 2 minutes to trip, where a direct short causes an instantaneous trip.

The best way to test a breaker in the field is to use an amp meter and it should be sophisticated enough measure peak, constant and average amperages of both the ac and vacuum. It will usually trip at startup so measure the peak at the ac startup. Then measure the vacuum startup and do the math. If you have the breakers time curves you can check on how long the overload will hold.

If you really want to make sure the AC is the only thing to be used on a particular circuit. Is first make it a separate circuit for that equipment only and use a simplex outlet instead of a duplex.


Does this mean that since the panel circuit is series I can connect the source hot wire to the 60-amp breaker and all other breakers will automatically be connected to the 60-amp breaker?

The panel bus bars are two separate circuits that can be fed with a two pole breaker. The bus bars are not in series with each other. As you have proposed, a 60 amp two-pole breaker inserted into the panel can be used as the main breaker if it is fed from your main panel. The other two-pole breakers will draw power through the 60 amp breaker.

I notice there is no neutral or ground bars in this panel. If you are in Europe this may be OK but in the USA these need to be added to the panel and the neutral bar needs to be insulated from the panel.

Good luck!


How to create nice corners when building a wall with these concrete blocks?

You purchase corner blocks. Those are stretcher blocks for the middle of the wall, not corner blocks. A masonry supplier will have a variety of different shapes for particular purposes, one of which is corners (both full and half-blocks)
There are also special shapes for door/window openings (sash blocks and lintels), bond beam blocks for horizontal rebar placements, etc.
You might want to search on "CMU construction methods" (CMU is "concrete masonry unit" or the formal name of the concrete block.)


What does "by half an inch" mean when talking about rest channel?

"Because we are installing the res' channel" is parenthetical, "by half an inch" is talking about the ceiling, not the channel.

"We are going to be lowering the ceiling (because we are installing the res' channel) by half an inch"

"We are going to be lowering the ceiling by half an inch"


Getting 200 amp from 2 different 100 amp service

Illegal, and impossible at any sane cost

Paralleling is, for all practical purposes of interest to you, illegal in mains wiring. Even when it is done owing to ampacity needs, it uses special equipment on the line side which renders it useless for anything like this.

The only way to inter-tie two supplies is with some sort of airgapping which assures energy flow is one way always, and provides isolation.  Think of it as "magic diodes that work on AC".  M-G sets with overrunning clutches, or railway-style substations where you feed an ungrounded transformer then rectify to DC and run your machine off the DC bus. Any of these would be prohibitively expensive, of course.

The path of least resistance (heh) is to have the conversation with the power company. You need to do this anyway, as you cannot simply slap a 175A load on their line without permission.  Their supply lines and equipment are simply not factored for a load that large!  Most houses take 1kw (4A) on average, and they absolutely rely on residential loads being intermittent.

Expect a lot of things to come out of this conversation, such as 480V - you could run your load off three #6 wires instead of two #0000's..

Also did you remember the 125% derate?


What should I do about mold in a new build?

First of all, you should probably contact a mold abatement contractor.  Not only should they be able to remove the existing mold, they should be able to identify its cause as well.

Then you may need to consult an attorney since from what you've said, this doesn't seem to be a one-shot deal in your unit but a systemic problem likely due to defective materials and/or workmanship.  So the builder may be liable and the city, who presumably inspected this work, may be liable too.

But it certainly doesn't sound like a DIY project.  Note also that it may not be safe for you to continue to live there until it's resolved.  I'd take the advice of the mold contractor on that.


What's wrong with my wiring of this light switch?

The problem is the neutral

pulled a white wire out of the marret of (unused?) white wires to use as neutral, and attached it to the neutral white wire on the new switch.

Instead you should ADD the new white wire to the existing bundle.  Only ONE is actually a neutral, the rest are other wires that need neutral.


You don't remove it.  The silicone is probably just to secure the pipe to the wall - so it doesn't wiggle or so that air doesn't get in.

If you need access to the pipe I would cut the white pipe.  This would allow you to fully snake anything below.  Chances are pretty high that all of these pipes are glued very well together.  They are not meant to wiggle apart.  If you do not want to cut them then you can try putting in a snake from a point further up or you can see if you have access from below in your main stack.


My lamp was making a noise. Now it won't turn on. How to fix?

You need to troubleshoot the problem and this is best done with an electrical portable meter. You probably don't have one, a local harware store would have it. Safety first in everything you do here. If you have fuses remove it from the bathroom circuit at the main panel.
The "lamps" in the bathroom need to be tested in another location and the wiring coming into the electrical boxes need to be inspected (this includes the switch box) and I recommend a new light fixture and/or a new light switch hardwired in the bathroom. Then replace the bathroom fuse at the main panel and flip the light switch on. Good luck.


A ground from a 4/4/4/6 wire and a local ground, grounding rod, in a detached building does it meet code?

You have the right idea here
Pulling the four-wire feed was definitely the correct move here, as the NEC nowadays requires neutral and grounding/bonding to be provided separately to detached buildings in addition to requiring the structure to provide its own grounding electrode system.  This is because we are dealing with three different functions here:

Neutral works for a living, returning normal power to your main panel and therefore to the utility
The grounding wire provides a safety connection to return any wayward utility power back to the utility -- current flows in loops, after all, and without that grounding wire, any fault to exposed metal will become a shocking experience
The grounding rods, on the other hand, are needed to return wayward natural electricity to terra firma -- this helps deal with voltages induced on the feeder due to lightning strikes, among other things.

And yes, both the incoming grounding wire from the feeder and the grounding electrode conductor from the outbuilding's ground rods get landed on the ground bar in the detached building's panel.  Don't forget that the panel needs to have a main breaker to serve as a disconnect switch for the structure, and also to provide plenty of spaces in that panel for future growth!


The construction and insulation of the socket assembly, the size and temperature rating of the wiring, the proximity and design of the shade... generally anything related to either electrical current or heat affects its wattage rating.

Using a bulb of higher wattage than the lamp is rated for means that wiring may be overloaded, causing it to heat up, and/or the structure of the lamp will heat up due to conduction and radiation from the bulb. Either can cause burns or fires.


What's the proper adjustment to prevent this toilet from running?

A test first before you do anything I have suggested. when the toilet is flushed and in the process of filling, gently lift up on the gray bar that holds the blue ball to see if the water stops. If it does, it needs adjusting. If it does not, it needs replacing.

There is a screw on top of the inlet valve that adjusts the point where the water stops flowing. Screwing it in while the tank is filling 1 turn should change the water level to what you need.

Or try bending the gray metal rod that supports the blue ball so the  ball sets a  little lower than before, say about 1" lower, if you can manage it. Use both hands on the metal rod to bend it, the plastic valve that the rod connects to cannot take a lot of stress. That should stop the water flowing about 1", maybe less, to the top of the overflow tube.

If the water level still rises up and over the overflow tube, try the bend one more time, setting the blue ball even lower. If it still runs on, then the filler needs replaced, it is not stopping the water as it should.

Looking at the picture again, check to see if the blue ball is hitting the side of the tank, not allowing it to rise high enough to stop the waterflow. If that is the case, if there are visible threads, screw the ball in more to clear the side of the tank.


What should I consider when replacing an outlet serving two kitchen circuits?

A GFCI is a good idea because of the location of the outlet.  However, I don't think that a GFCI that can simultaneously protect two circuits even exists (and I doubt one would fit into a single-gang box if it did exist), so I believe you have a couple of options:

Install GFCI breakers on the dishwasher and disposal circuits, and use a regular outlet under your sink with the tab between the screw terminals broken off.  This may be what you already have; the breakers will have a Test button on them if so.  If the supply for the disposal runs to the switch first then to the outlet, this is the only way that the switch will be covered by the GFCI.  In your place, this is what I would do: safer and less work, albeit a little more expensive.
Use GFCI outlets.  As I said above, you'd need two GFCIs to protect your two circuits, so you would have to install a double-gang box in place of the existing gang-box or add another single gang box then run the wiring for one of the appliances to it instead (in your place, I'd do the latter and use a remodeling box for the new outlet).  However, this means that the switch for the disposal wouldn't be covered by the GFCI, potentially risking an electric shock.


How to create a peephole in a door without a hole?

If when you say the door is without a hole, but you are allowed to drill one then it is a question of deciding the height and a suitable diameter.
If you cannot drill a hole then some sort of miniature camera will be needed...
When drilling a hole through the door, making sure you go through square is crucial and a tiny pilot hole then drilling from both sides gets a clean hole - at least in my experience.
Here is one possibility: Peephole on Amazon


How can I prevent a faucet retaining nut from freezing to a steel washer?

Anti-Seize Lubricating Compound
Make sure it's waterproof

Pipe Dope
Make sure it's Anti-seize

I do not specifically recommend nor endorse either product, they are only used as examples.