How to correctly level a raised floor built on an old garage floor?

Get a bunch of 6" x 3/8" galvanized lag screws. Pilot though your joists at intervals with a 1/4" or 5/16" bit, then run screws in to lift and level the joists. Cut of the protruding portion flush with a hack saw.
With that room size, every joist needs at least two support points (plus the outer ends). Don't span more than about 4'.
I would pull a carpenter's line down the center of the room, spaced above the joists with blocks at each end. Match the space all the way across.


I've found denatured alcohol is an excellent solution for removing oily and sticky substances. I've used denatured alcohol for decades; it's one of my favorite go-to solutions for sticky situations. (Yes, that was meant to be punny.) I keep some handy in a small bottle (transferred from large can I keep in the garage). Mineral spirits has an oily residue when compared to denatured alcohol which dries quickly and with no discernible residue.

Why not do a test spot? Or simply clean all relevant surfaces with denatured alcohol--you can use it liberally exactly because it dries quickly without leaving any residue--and apply the silicone sealer. Make sure to use clean, lint-free rags. Anything else and you could risk leaving fabric or paper lint behind thus compromising the seal. Water is persistent and insistent--anywhere it can find a way in, it will and it will keep hunting until it does. Use clean sections of the cloth to ensure you're WIPING OFF the oil and not simply smearing it around. Because you've got a big gap, I've read instructions to first 'block' large gaps and then apply the caulk. Not sure what the recommended material is for filling in/blocking the gap (it's generally called a gasket, yes?) so you'd have to research that.

Another option is to use rubber-based product. It's great for keeping water out. I used RedGard (purchased from Home Depot) to retroactively waterproof the floor of a tiled shower where I didn't have the option of installing a membrane (hack contractor job). Four years later and it's still working great. RedGard was relatively expensive, but I only had a small area so it was well worth the cost to ensure a waterproof seal. I'm about to use rubberized caulk (Flex Shot) to close gaps in the door seals to our daughter's car that gets water inside when it rains. I hope it does the job! I'm also using the Henry line of elastomeric products to seal and waterproof our 90 yo metal roof and used their 100% silicone reflective coating (Tropi-Cool). So far, so good. Henry products are available at Home Depot and you can check out their caulks at Henry.com. No, I don't work for Henry nor am I affiliated with any company in anyway. I'm merely sharing my knowledge and experience; that's how I have learned what I know today: Reading information people have taken the time to share, researching the data & options (to death sometimes), and then checking it out for myself.

Here's something I found when asking RedGard chat support if they had a caulk version. They didn't, but sent this link: http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-100.pdf

Hope this helps.


How should I fill in a trench left by replacement of a sewer pipe?

You don't say where you are located, but in the UK, to comply with Building Regulations, it would be typical to both bed the pipe on and backfill immediately around it with pea gravel or single-size stone.

Above that, it would depend what is on top of the trench as to how you'd backfill the rest of the trench.

Under a road, you'd likely use MOT type 1 stone, which is generally specified as being compacted in 150mm layers.

Under a grassed area, you could simply backfill with soil. You don't need to compact it, but be aware that it will settle over time. One way to counter this is to over-fill the trench, so it will (hopefully) settle to finish level with the surrounding area.

(Further assuming you are in the UK, if the work is subject to Building Regulations, the local authority Building Inspector will want to inspect and pass the drain before it is covered up).


The possible result of unplugging it for hours is that the pump may lose its prime. If that happens, when you do plug it in, it will run and run without actually pumping anything. If left this way, it could overheat and be seriously damaged. It is relatively easy to restore the prime in the pump, but you would not want to be doing this every day. It would be annoying.
Building a sound barrier sounds like a better option.


what is good material for 100C to 130C for heat box

Sheet metal. Insulate with rockwool. Unfortunately your size seems to be just beyond what you can likely find in a household oven, which is (in used condition) generally the least expensive way to get a metal box of roughly that size, with heating elements, insulation, and a thermostat already installed.


Does leaving the Central AC on all day and all night cause the motor to burn or compressor line to freeze up?

With a properly functioning system no the motor will not burn up. And the coils and line set may show some frost but would not freeze up.

If you leave the system running and there is a drastic temp drop things might ice up a little but the throttle valve will start restricting the flow of refrigerant so the compressor may start cycling , systems usually have a minimum off time so the cycling will not over heat the motor. For systems with simple orifices the pressure switch turns off the compressor until time to start again.
Most all residential compressors have internal thermal overloads that stop the motor from operating if they get two hot. This is yet another safety so no a properly operating hvac system will not burn up if left on all the time.


Whirlpool Duet front loader door won't unlock

After letting it sit overnight unplugged, the manual release worked.  Problem solved...now on to figuring out what's wrong with it.


Best way to join two vertical aluminium poles

This gets close to opinion, but I'd lean toward the internal sleeve. It can be extra long without being unsightly, which will give a bit more strength.

The external plates would probably be fine.

Unless you could overlap option 3 quite a bit (>12" is what my intuition specifies), it doesn't strike me as being as strong.


Fencing backyard on the lower side of a retaining wall

Add some planter boxes or some other pleasant looking obstruction to the 4 foot section.  if you are not interested in planter boxes you could do something like a gas pipe railing  I'm a gas fitter and I love the look of this stuff. But it may be a little costly if you want dense coverage like in the photo.


You have two sets of wires to extend.

The solar panel wires, I assume you will want to have the cable exit at the door end of the container, so you don't have a potentially leaky hole in the side. (NEVER put a hole in the roof). That needs 2 wires.
The switch wires.  The switch has 3 modes: Off, always-on, and motion sensor.  Off needs no wires, but the others need 1 each plus a common. That's 3. Noting there only 2 wires, clearly it's using the light's metal chassis as a "common", much like is done in automobile wiring.

Look carefully at the solar panel wiring.  If one of its wires is also attached to the machine chassis, that'd be good news, it means that wire can be shared with the chassis-side of the switch, and we can do all this with common-as-dirt 14/3 UF cable.  Otherwise you'd need exotic 14/4, or dual 14/2.

This is a low voltage device, so there's no particular risk, other than destroying the device.

14/2 or 14/3 UF cable comes with a bare wire for safety earthing. Since we're not using it for dangerous mains voltage, we'll use it for common/chassis.

For the switch, I would not use a mains-voltage 3-way (2-way) switch. I would use an electronics store rocker or toggle SPDT switch, with "chassis" on common and each of the other two wires on the ends.

These devices will not like having a balky, inflexible #14 wire attached to them. Have the last 1' or so going to the device use a smaller wire like a #20 stranded wire, and tie it to the #14 with a wire nut, probably orange.


One LED has massive delay before turning on

So, I have this working now.

I tried a simple switch and it did not help
I swapped the lights and it didn't help

Finally I took down the two back lights and re-did the wiring.  The non-working light was chained from the other light so I took the caps and re-wired everything I could.  Once I put it back together it worked.  So I can only assume that there was a shaky connection for one the connections.  It is strange that it worked after a time after turning it on, but that does seem to be the issue.
Thanks for everyone's help.


That I am aware of T&G is not available in 1/2". 5/8" is thinest, and if carpet is the choice of finish, it should be 3/4". But it doesn't mean it will be.

You will need to set the screws or any nails that are above the floor, and check if the subfloor is flat enough for the manufacturers requirements for their floor. Usually it is something like no more than 1/8" deflection in a 4' span with a straightedge. If that is all in order, I would add just a layer of 1/4" underlayment, not plywood, although underlayment I typically use is plywood, difference is it is rated as an underlayment. Underlayment does not have the voids in the laminations of the plywood so if a table leg or heel presses over a void, it will not poke a hole in your finish floor.

If the floor you have now is squeaky, now is the time to resecure it with 2" screws. Typical nailing/fastening for underlayment is 4" on all edges, and 6" in both directions everywhere else. I like using a pneumatic narrow gauge stapler for this, it makes fastening go real fast.


How to seal the hole for a spigot through a stone wall

Fill any large gaps with sanded grout in the face of the stone, let that dry, then seal the outside of the pipe to the grout after it dries with Vulkem caulking.

From the inside of the house, seal the backside of the grout with expanding foam just enough to stop any air (1-2 inches deep). After that cures, fill the rest of the 3-4 inch cavity with fiberglass insulation. Most people would just fill the entire hole with expanding foam, but that makes it extremely difficult to work on it again in the future. It's a similar technique to installing new windows, first caulk, then air seal with expanding foam, then stuff the rest of the cavity with fiberglass insulation. Try not to over stuff the hole with the fiberglass, it's the best to keep it about the same density as it wants to be naturally out of the bag.

Instead of soldering the spigot directly to the pipe, I think you should solder a 3/4" MNPT fitting directly to the pipe, and then screw the new spigot onto those threads using teflon tape or thread sealant. This makes it easier to replace the spigot next time it fails. All you have to do is unscrew it, and screw in the replacement. It also makes it so you won't need to destroy your grout/vulkem/foam/insulation job down the road.


How to remove tight screws from wall plug?

I would try these things in this order:

Use an impact driver to loosen the screw. You can either use a full impact screwgun or air impact tool to remove the screw (make sure you apply lots of pressure against it so the driver does not slip out of the screw head). There are also hammer impact tools available that are more used to loosen stuck screws, and then you use a regular screw driver to fully remove. With these, you place it on the screw, and pound on it with a hammer. If you don't have an impact tool (electric or air-powered) available, this would be a good solution as these hammer impact drivers are relatively cheap (can get them for around $10 US).
Use a cutting tool to make a slot for a flat-head screwdriver. These allow you to apply more torque then a Philips head.
Cut the head off the screw altogether or drill it off. This will allow you to remove the bracket at least, but you will have to abandon the screw shank in place and move your bracket slightly if you need to re-install it.

One more thought, since you said you are using plastic wall plugs. If all that's holding the screw right now is the wall plug, you could also try some gentle heat on the screw, before unscrewing or pulling it out. You might be able to heat the plastic enough to where this will work. But it's also possible the end of the screw is stuck in the concrete. Concrete will also be destroyed quickly by too much heat, so you would need to be quite careful with this method.


To deal with just the blacktop you basically need to jackhammer up some holes in the floor so that you can pour footings.  You can frame out the area much like you would a deck.  This is given that the walls of the garage are above proper footings.  How many footings you need is dependent on how big your garage is.  How deep the footings are, is dependent of your climate.

Also I would try to match up the floor to the floor in your house.  But all inspectors I know want ceilings to be at least 7 feet.  How close you can match these areas up is depended on your garage ceiling height and what you local town lets you do.


Why is my water heater leaking from the relief valve on the top?

I think the pressure on your house plumbing should be about 80 psi or less right after you run a tap and then shut it off. Do you have an expansion tank to prevent pressure increase? If you use a lot of hot water, then don't use any water, the pressure in your system can increase as the cold water in the tank water heater expands on being heated.

If this is what is happening, if your TP valve is dripping, then it should stop if you momentarily open a cold water tap (or if you open a hot water tap but then more cold water would flow into the tank causing more expansion after a while).

See pressure relief tank.

EDIT
Informative readings here from Watts.


My off-the-cuff answer is 33" minimum but 36" highly recommended.
But the correct answer is: Get the installation manual for the sink. Usually available online, and if it isn't then contact the manufacturer. The installation manual will show you how much space is needed, particularly how much clearance is needed under each side of the sink, which will vary depending on how it is mounted. Keep in mind that some cabinets will have thicker walls and/or framing pieces under the left and right sides than others.
It is possible that a 33" cabinet might be 1" thick on each side and leave you with 31" of usable space. Combined with a 30" sink that needs no extra space underneath (i.e., it is drop-in and secured entirely on top), you would be just fine. On the other hand, a cabinet that ends up with less usable space (I wouldn't go down to exactly 30" for sure) or a sink that requires mounting brackets underneath the left and right edges will certainly need a wider cabinet.


Circuit breakers off, but meter still running

If you have all of the other breakers turned off and the ONLY thing that is on is the Main breaker, then there is a problem between the main and the rest of the breakers, or between the meter and the main. If you have even 1kWH of power use when the Main breeaker is open, then that says there is a problem with the meter, socket or wiring after the meter. Given that the meter display is also non-functional, I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's a meter problem. If your main breaker is open, there is no way that there should be ANY power consumption whatsoever, not even 1kWh.

Another possibility however: Often times someone will tap into a neighbor's line, AFTER the meter, to siphon off power for things like grow lights for their pot plants. It's rare, but it happens because Law Enforcement can sometimes track down grow operations by monitoring power use so they steal power from neighbors to avoid detection. Look for evidence of a hidden extension cord or wiring that has been added when the house was abandoned. Thieves can be very clever in that respect. The drop to 1kWh may be the result of them seeing you looking at it so they curtailed their activity until you give up. In fact they may have damaged the meter display so that you could not see it running when all of your breakers were off.


Peel & stick tiles for temporary floor covering over chip board?

I have peel and stick tile in several closets on particle board. But it sounds like you may have Oriented Strand Board (visible chips) which is not as smooth on the surface, and that might make a difference.

Closets are low-traffic, which is why I was willing to use P&S at all, but it was a definite improvement from the nasty old carpet removed and the bare particle board left when the carpet was gone. You'll need to address the raised area around the seam in some way, perhaps sanding.

I think it would be worth a try if you do a careful job, since you have the material on hand (sounds like "as excess.")


How much clearance do we need for side-loading garage

16 feet would probably be enough clearance to get a single sedan-type car into a two-car garage, assuming no other car in the driveway. I've got about 18 feet of space to maneuver into my garage, and it's tough when there's another vehicle parked in the driveway. Not impossible for my little Mazda 3, but it's not happening with our SUV unless we drive on the grass. Parking in the garage when there's another vehicle already in it is tough as well, but easier than when the other vehicle is in the driveway. And if there's a vehicle in the garage and one in the driveway, forget it - I'm not getting into the garage in that case, even with my small car.

I have trouble with 18 feet of clearance, so 16 will be even worse. If you can provide some additional space to either side of the garage door - especially the far side away from the road - that would help quite a bit. If you can give yourself more than 16' of space between the garage and the property line, that'd help immensely more.

As @Ecnerwal mentioned, this could affect resale value; it would quite severely limit the types of vehicles that could be parked in the garage, or it would turn a 2-car garage into a 1-car garage.


How to set up a basic single-zone irrigation system

Home Depot has an entire section dedicated to irrigation. They have a neat little DIYer setup called orbit. It uses 1/2 pvc tubing and barb fittings. My nearest Home Depot sells pop up heads that will shoot water 15'.

Here's an idea of what orbit irrigation haswww.amazon.ca

Here's a bit about the orbit pop-up
Model # 91561 Store SKU # 1000743815

  Orbit's Voyager II Professional Gear Drive is the best in class of all gear drive pop-up sprinkler heads. It is the #1 consumer choice for medium to large area gear drive sprinkler heads. It's versatility allows coverage from a 25 ft. up to a 52 ft. radius in a part- to full-circle spray pattern. The gear drive rotor ensures even and complete water coverage as well as a quiet spray. A filter protects the nozzle from clogging and is easily accessible for cleaning. It is compatible with all major brands of gear drive rotors including Rainbird, Hunter, and Toro.
  www.homedepot.com

You could probably do the whole yard with 2 or 3 of those.


Blown fuse from a dehumidifier that has been working for years

When you say you have not plugged anything new in, I take it that you have not bought any new appliances or electronic gadgets. In addition, you stated that the dehumidifier functions just fine when plugged into another outlet. If that is indeed the case then read on.

I have seen something similar occur twice in both residential and industrial settings. What may be happening is a bad connection in the wiring is causing a voltage drop. The bad connection might only affect that one outlet, the whole circuit or part of a circuit.

A small load like a lamp or phone charger will function properly and a voltmeter will show the outlet/circuit as good. But a larger load like a vacuum cleaner or dehumidifier will draw enough current to drop the voltage down enough to where the motor can't get up to speed causing it to pull lots of current. The breaker can't handle the higher current so it trips.

Try this test:

Unplug the dehumidifier from the suspect outlet.
Plug a lamp with an old school incandescent bulb into a different, known working outlet. Note the brightness of the lamp.
Now move and plug the lamp into the suspect outlet. Turn the lamp on and let it sit for a few minutes and note the brightness. The lamp should glow brightly and the circuit breaker should not trip. NOTE: This will NOT reliably work with a compact fluorescent (CFL) or LED bulb.

If the breaker trips or you immediatly notice that the lamp is glowing dimmer in the suspect outlet than the good outlet, you have a wiring problem. If the lamp works fine then proceed below...

Plug the dehumidifier into the suspect outlet ALONG WITH the lamp and turn it on. Make sure the lamp is on before you switch on the dehumidifier. Watch the brightness of the lamp. If the lamp goes dim and stays dim until the breaker trips, you have a voltage drop indicating a wiring problem.

If you have a voltmeter, you can use that in place of the lamp. You can also try using a vacuum cleaner in place of the dehumidifier for step 4.


Concerns about hanging a hundred plus mugs on dry wall

It's hard to say whether your drywall will support this, it might, it might not.  Big factors are the thickness, condition, and stud spacing.  As well, if the bars ever experience a dynamic load like someone bumping into it, pulling on mugs, etc. it might very well fail while it was fine with a static load.

The "right" way to do this is to open up the walls and install blocking between studs so that you can mount your bars to a solid support instead of the drywall.  Or alternatively, install a piece of plywood on top of the drywall, anchored to the studs, and then mount your bars to the plywood. You could paint it to match the wall.


How do I install an insteon light switch where wire colors don't match?

As suggested by Speedy Petey, I poked around further into the back of the wall box and it turns out there was in fact, some white wire.  This gave me what I needed to match the diagrams on the Insteon sheet, the unit is now connected as diagrammed and functioning as intended.


faint LED glow when smart dimmer switch is off

I can't say for sure why you have that LED glow. Typically that is due to deliberate power leakage through switched hot for a switch that doesn't require neutral. However, this switch requires neutral and you have described a wiring installation where it gets neutral. So the mystery remains. But you have bigger problems.
The neutral/hot/switched hot need to be together. Not going to immediately cause a big problem in your current (pun intended) setup because LEDs don't use much power, but definitely against code and not good long-term. In addition, you very likely have a color-coding problem.
Here are the key things:

Neutral must run together with the other wires of the circuit. In some cases you don't need neutral - that's why your switch loop didn't have it. New code requires neutral at switches to take care of this problem, but old wiring is grandfathered. Grandfathered wiring takes care of the code issue until you actually need the neutral! So for this setup, you either need a new 14/3 cable to replace the 14/2 (so you can get the correct neutral) or you need a switch that doesn't require neutral.
Wherever you do get neutral, it must be white or gray (or grey). Based on your description, you very likely repurposed an unused red or black wire to be neutral. You are permitted to use a white wire in a cable as hot or switched hot under limited circumstances, but you can't use a colored wire as neutral.

Part of the problem is that historically dimmers, timers, etc. would leak current through switched hot to power themselves. That works great with incandescent lights. With LEDs, that results in either a glow or (even worse) blinking. The solutions are:

Battery - You have to change it periodically.
Neutral - You have to get a neutral in the right place (as you found out the hard way). Which is why code now mandates neutral in switch boxes.
Ground - Permitted under limited circumstances when designed properly and approved.

End result: You may need a different switch. But if the switch (this one if the problem can be fixed, or another one) needs neutral, then you will need a new cable - you can't grab a neutral from elsewhere, even though it is on the same breaker/circuit.


Is there enough here to get a ceiling fan?

Electrically, yes.  A ceiling fan works just like a typical light fixture (in most cases), when you flip the switch the fan turn on (assuming the pull chain switch is in the proper state).

Installing a ceiling fan is the same procedure as hooking up any light fixture (Turn off the breaker first!), simply connect the black (hot) from the ceiling (should be controlled by the switch) to the black on the ceiling fan.  Then connect the white (neutral), to the white on the ceiling fan.  If the fan has a light kit you'll notice an extra blue wire (color may vary), hook this one up to the black (hot) from the ceiling along with the black from the fan. Then twist all bare/green (ground) wires together, and ground them as per the direction that came with the fan.

Structurally, maybe not.  Keep in mind the electrical box that is currently there was designed to hold the weight of a typical light fixture (a couple pounds max), not a ceiling fan (15-50 lbs). It's possible the electrical box itself will hold the fan, but I wouldn't put any of my family members under it.  they make "Old work ceiling fan boxes", that come with a brace that spans between the joists to hold the extra weight of a ceiling fan.  The brace bar expands and contracts, so you can stick it up in the hole (after you remove the old electrical box) and then expand it until it bites into the joists. Then you'll hang the new electrical box from this brace, and install the fan as usual.


Electrician connected LED dimmer to halogen bulbs, worried about safety

From the link you posted:

The dimmer is rated for up to 210W of halogens with or without transformer. So if you have 6x 20W 12V halogen bulbs, total 120W, it's okay. You should check the power on the bulbs to make sure they're not 50W halogen bulbs, in which case it would exceed the rated power of the dimmer, although 12V 50W are pretty rare.
When your bulbs burn out, you should replace with LEDs. You probably have 12V GU5.3 sockets, there are almost no usable LED bulbs in 12V GU5.3 and they're all super expensive, which means you'll need to get rid of the transformers and replace the GU5.3 sockets with GU10 sockets. I recommend Osram EAN 4058075260115 GU10 bulb, it is cheap, it has excellent color rendition and light quality (much better than halogens) and it is dimmable.


Is a humming sink disposal motor failing?

Replace the disposer or re-plumb the drains to do without one. A 20-year-old disposer that is not working is not worth repairing.


Is it advisable to run a snow blower on a non-GFCI receptacle?

NSIS.  A GFCI receptacle will certainly provide more protection than mittens and boots.  If there isn't a GFCI receptacle available, you can use a portable GFCI

on whatever receptacle is available.


Ok to connect a 1.5" sump pump outlet tube to 2" discharge line using a no-hub fitting?

That will work fine.  What you want to avoid is reducing from say 2" to 1.5" as this can cause things to get stuck and block the flow.
But you should be good to go with a 1.5" opening up to a 2".


No power in outlets after changing light switches

You need to get all those neutrals together

Your problem is that you split the neutrals up instead of bundling them together; thus, power has no way to get back from the other switch, the lights, and the outlets to the utility.  The easy fix is to turn the power off at the breaker, unbundle the white neutral wires, bundle them all together with a big enough wirenut, button things up, and turn the breaker back on, then things should work.


You wouldn't install a GFCI receptacle in each receptacle location, you'd install a single GFCI device at the "beginning" of the circuit. This GFCI device could even be a GFCI breaker, or a GFCI device that doesn't have receptacles on it.

If you have split receptacles now (top always hot, bottom switched), you won't be able to simply replace them with a GFCI receptacle.  GFCI receptacles do not allow you to split the receptacles, so they will not work in your situation.


I am no expert either but I would think wool will be less prone to mold and mildew than other fibers.  It wicks away moisture more than most fibers.  I have many times had cotton goods get damp in storage and get musty / mildewed, but never wool blankets or coats.

(Although moths do seem to prefer the wool.  You might have to treat it with something to keep the moths away.)

It doesn't sound to me like your garden house is a particularly dark damp environment, so I doubt it would be a problem.


How should I fasten air exchanger ducts to unit?

I agree with Michael, and add that you could also use large HVAC zip ties. If the lines seem to come loose easily, then you would be better off using a tape. Now, "Duct" tape and "Duck" tape are not the same. "Duck" tape is what most people see as the old fashion silver/gray colored roll of tape that now comes in wild designs and colors and can be bought at every store that sells tape. "Duct" tape is designed for duct lines, HVAC, and is usually an aluminum foil type tape, and a common brand is 3M.


Can a class A fire be extinguished with a class BC fire extinguisher?

[Nations vary, so these are US fire extinguisher type codes - A = wood and paper, B = grease and oil, C = Electrical]

It's always acceptable, it's just not the best choice - but if it's the only one you have and you can safely apply it, worth a shot - then if still safe, then go find a bucket and throw water at it (if its not got grease or electrical issues). Better yet, if you know the difference and can explain the difference to others in the house, pick up a nice type A (or AC these days - weird but available) water extinguisher and set it beside the BC extinguisher if the location is non-freezing - or pick up a bigger ABC powder unit for freezing locations or users that may just grab whatever there is without paying attention to the type of fire.

Generally "BC only" extinguishers are too small to do much good for an A fire - one difference in ABC dry powder types is that they are bigger, and have an A rating that's about a tenth of their BC rating. [Edit: they evidently do use a different dry chemical type, as well] Even a CO2 BC will knock back an A fire, but it will come right back when the CO2 runs out and oxygen returns to reignite the embers - still, it will have been knocked back.

ABC chemical and BC chemical

Looking at my current ABC dry chemical unit, it's rated 3 A, 40 BC (the number is larger for some arcane "size of fire that can be extinguished" system) so that one is not even a tenth of the BC rating. Thus, a small "kitchen" extinguisher that's 5 or 10 BC won't even rate a 1 A with that chemistry.

Remember in no case should you stick around to fight the fire if doing so is not clearly still safe - fire extinguishers are good for putting out small fires before they become big ones - big ones you leave and let the fire department put it out, remembering that being alive is worth more than all the stuff that's burning.


What size feeder do I need for an RV shore power panel?

Where the electrical supply for a recreational vehicle site has more than one receptacle, the calculated load shall be calculated only for the highest rated receptacle.

clinches it.   However, this presumes this is one site.  If it is reasonably plausible that this is 2 sites, and Junior could roll up and park his TT30 right next door -- then yeah, you'll have a problem.

And I would address that problem by fitting a generator interlock so both the 50 and 30 can't be on at once. I wouldn't worry about the 20.

Also, build a birdhouse with a door over that thing.   You'll thank me later (actually you won't though).


How do I fix sagging sofa back and seat cushions on a leather couch?

If this is only a year old I would think it would still be under warranty from IKEA.  I would call them and ask what you should do.

Normally the manufacturer will send you some foam (or whatever) inserts.  Then you would add them to the cushions.  If there is no easy way to insert the inserts then the manufacturer might have someone with expertise visit your house to help.

If you want to fix this yourself and want nothing to do with IKEA then figure out what is in your couch and get more of it.  Then cut open the couch where need be and staple/sew it back together.  You are dealing with leather so this is not easy at all.


As long as you can get the existing valve fully open you can leave it in place.  Buy a piggy back valve, you screw it into the existing valve and use it instead of the original.

As zelinka mentioned the existing valve is done in expansion pex and the tools needed to put a new one on are close to $600.

You could probably do a sharkbite fitting on the pipe if you cut it below the expansion ring.  Something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-1-4-in-O-D-Compression-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Quarter-Turn-Straight-Stop-Valve-23337-0000LF/202721912


Why is one switch hot wire black and another white?

Getting switch loop wires mixed up isn't any big deal.  They are both hot, just one is always hot and one is switched hot.  Since they are both hots,   the whites should be marked with tape at both ends.

It appears both switches are on the far end of switch loops, and may even be derived from different circuits, possibly on different poles (notice how the installer broke off the common tab on the old duplex switch).   So the easiest way to control them with one switch handle is a double-pole switch.  Fortunately these do exist in household form factors, such as this Leviton CAB2-20W, which is rated for 277V so it's good for opposite poles (240V).  AB goes on one pole, CD on the other.


What maintenance can I perform on my GROHE 33 755 KD0 Ladylux Cafe Pull-Out kitchen faucet?

Try removing, disassembling (take notes!), and soaking the faucet head in a mix of hot water and vinegar (50/50) for a short while (e.g. an hour or two), to help remove any tap water mineral deposits that may have made their way into the head of your faucet and that are restricting your water flow.

Faucet heads typically have very fine passages and/or aerator mesh, and it's not uncommon for a build-up of tap water mineral deposits to cause water flow problem over time.  I've experienced this first hand, and a good vinegar soak did the trick.

Best of luck.


How to install multiple individual led strips?

I have used these inexpensive LED tape lights from Amazon.com with very good success.
You can cut them down to as small as 4" pieces, and use connectors to get wire leads to connect to a driver. You'll need some low-voltage wiring to go between the tape ends and the driver. You have to calculate how much wattage you are putting on each driver, but they do come in several sizes so you can potentially put a lot on a one driver.

Links:
http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Flexible-300xSMD3528-Adhesive-2026WH/dp/B002Q8V8DM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413122307&sr=8-3&keywords=led+tape

http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Suppply-Driver-Transformer-Output/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1413122307&sr=8-16&keywords=led+tape

http://www.amazon.com/Estone-Connector-Adapter-Single-Welding/dp/B00GTGLCXI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z


Well..

1) If it's not in the way and not hurting anything, then removing it seems like unnecessary work. Besides the initial removal, there's disposal.

2) It provides some sound dampening...shop work can be loud and your neighbors may appreciate it as-is.

3) Where there's at least a 110v/15amp outlet, there can be a temporary space heater, and so that insulation could potentially provide some benefits in that respect.

My opinion: Keep it.


It's not a "roof frame"; it's a truss. Its purpose is to keep the beam below it straight.


Using a thin cutoff disk in a rotary tool (Dremel), cut a slot in each screw that fits a medium-sized flat-blade screwdriver.


Adding insulation in a finished ceiling with no access

Sounds like a talk with the condo board is in order. Insulating the space between the floors would be beneficial for everyone, not just you. Cutting a few holes and blowing in cellulose would do a good job. Even better would be filling the space with mineral wool batts which are very good for soundproofing (and could be done as a DIY job) but that would require removing the ceiling drywall or plaster.


Is there a purpose for reveal between window jamb and casing (other than aesthetics)?

Flush joints are both challenging to achieve perfectly, especially where several come together, and are generally ugly. A seam in a flat surface looks odd, as though something was added on due to poor planning.
It's that simple.


What is the best way to remove hair from carpets?

For problem areas, I tape together a square of masking tape about a foot (0.3 meters) on a side, and press that onto the carpet after a stiff brushing. The sticky will pull the hair right out. It'd be a lot of work for large areas though.


How do I know when my wooden floor has fully dried out post-flood?

Get yourself a moisture meter ($30~) and test the floor at various points.

Wood is rarely COMPLETELY dry (as in no moisture at all) - but you definitely want a moisture content that compares to other wood in your house that was not flooded.

Example of a moisture meter


The presence of the droplets seems to indicate that there is still a water leak in the roof of the bumpout. The discoloration is likely coming from the accumulated dirt and dust in the "attic" part of the bumpout. It is also possible that the discoloration is coming from the leak water pooling in an area where the mice deposited their droppings and then finding its way through the drywall on the bathroom ceiling.


Can I fix a possible gas leak on a valve for a hot water system myself with Thread Seal Tape?

I don't think it's as dire as all the comments are making it out to be. Some people are just afraid of gas, just like some people are afraid of anything involving electricity.  If you think it's just a loose coupling, you can turn the gas off, unscrew the coupling, apply pipe dope (not tape) and re-attach the coupling and turn the gas back on. If it still smells you aren't any worse off than before minus a few bucks for the can of pipe dope.


How to fix the damaged floor of a vanity cabinet?

I don't see evidence of animals. Obviously that area was very wet for a period of time at some point, and particle board doesn't tolerate that. A little pressure is all it would've taken to punch through like we see here.
The simplest way is to fit a new sheet of material over the top of the existing floor. If you use 3/4" material you probably don't need to do any repair to what's there now. Just cut it to fit inside the cabinet and extending out to the edge of the face frame. (Notch around the face frame center stile.) You may need to temporarily remove the drain trap parts to make room to finagle the new sheet in there, or even pull the countertop (with the faucet attached but disconnected from the lines).
Ideally you'll purchase a piece of shelving with a finished edge. Use that edge at the front. MDF isn't appropriate unless it's coated or varnished. It'll be a sponge for any spills or leaks.
If you don't like the idea of raising the floor that little bit you'll need to put on your cabinet maker hat. Cut away the existing floor, install small cleats all the way around, recessed the thickness of your new floor, and set in a new floor panel. That procedure is a bit much for an answer on a Q&A site, so post new specific questions if you like.


Yes it is. You are correct. Call in an electrician.


When is an expansion joint required for PVC service entrance conduit?

My utility requires them. Climate zone 4, the ground freezes, so frost heaves/movement from frost are likely. That's what these deal with on short risers from the ground. Whether or not code required, if the conduit breaks from movement after installation, it will cost a lot more than $55 to fix.


How to remove screws with stripped heads?

Damaged screws are extracted by drilling into the screw with a drill bit, then using a special screw extractor bit that is tapered and has threads which turn opposite to those of the screw.

The extraction process should be done slowly and carefully because the extraction process is more fragile than the normal insertion of a screw.

I found this to be a good write-up with pictures.


The following is a fairly classic way to do this.

The 2 by 4s get glued and screwed to the table top with a diagonal cross piece at the corners.

The legs then get placed and screwed or bolted to the diagonal so it gets pulled tight.

If you use lag screws, or the like, the legs come off pretty easy for storage.


Turns out to be a bad gas control valve. Its sporadic behavior was a sign that it's failing. After testing the thermostat, igniter, and flame sensor, the only odd behavior was the occasional loss of flame triggering ignition lockout. As for the blown fuse, it's possibly a bad solenoid or related component on the valve drawing too much current. Gas doesn't seem to be flowing after hearing the "click" since the last failure. Replacing the valve returned the furnace to working order.


What's the best way to hang this large picture on insulated plasterboard?

I'd use picture wire between the two D-rings to hang the picture. Leave some slack in the wire, as that will give you some scope for adjustment to make sure it can hang level.

Usually, I'd suggest picture hooks, but with insulation in front of the plasterboard, my suggestion would be to drive decent length screws into the studs, leaving the head protruding a little, and hang the picture wire over the screw heads


Replace G24q-1 (4-pins) with a B22 Bayonet

G24q-1 bulbs do not take mains voltage

I agree that the 8-terminal block is the standard UK mains splice. However, there must be a ballast or driver circuit between the mains connection and the G24q socket.

You must account for that before you can rewire.

My concern is that they may simply be using common UK wiring kit to extend from an external ballast to this location.  That would be reasonable to do if they use a ballast that can support 2+ lamps.

This is an incandescent socket. Be careful!

A basic tenet of design is that fixtures not made for incandescents must not have sockets which could possibly take incandescents.

Even if you are enlightened enough to use efficient LEDs, the person who comes after you may slap in an incandescent.   At that point, the bulb is making much more heat than the fixture was ever designed to accommodate, and you can start a fire.

The bayonet socket you want to install will take incandescents.

I can't see the rest of the fixture,  but make sure it is listed and rated for incandescents.

If it is not, and  you want to fit LED bulbs, choose a socket type that only supports LEDs and not incandescents.  Or change to a fixture that is appropriate for incandescents.


Why doesn't the top half of my outlet work?

Outlets wear out (especially the cheap ones). Replace it. Be sure to use good technique. If you don't know good technique, have a look at a house wiring book or other reliable resource.


Does galvanized metal rust where the zinc is gone?

I don’t want to give you “The Slip” so I’m doing this “With Teeth” in, but even Kurt Cobain and the Foo Fighters knows that when you strike a galvanized coated nail with a hammer, some galvanizing comes off and the head of the nail will rust quicker than the rest of the nail. So, yes, it will rust when cut off.


Definitely get the Landlord involved. Unless there's a standing pool of water, much bigger than the toilet, there's no apparent nor logical reason for any room to stay so noticeably different.

I'd say maybe a backdraft through the exhaust fan from a faulty damper, but you've disproven that. In the meantime, check with the neighbors & see if either are doing anything strange or noticed the same thing.

I'd suspect the 1st floor got a Hot Tub or started Indoor Gardening. A Room Humidifier or Air Conditioning System's Humidifier wouldn't even do anything like your saying.


How do I make ground connections at my receptacle boxes?

There's a many different ways to do it, and how it's done depends on personal preference.
Example Methods
Long tail
In this variation, the Electrician will leave one of the grounding conductors long. He'll install a ground screw in the threaded hole in the back of the box, and loop the long conductor around the screw around the middle of the conductor. Then he'll collect all the grounding conductors in the box, and twist them together with the remainder of the long grounding conductor.  Once twisted, he'll use either a crimp or twist-on wire connector to "permanently" connect the conductors together.
Pigtail
Another option is to gather all the grounding conductors together, and twist them together with an extra bit of grounding conductor. Again using a crimp or twist-on wire connector to "permanently" connect the conductors together. Then connect one end of the extra bit of conductor to the box using a grounding screw, or a grounding clip.
Greenie®
More recently, guys have been using  Greenies from Ideal industries. They're basically a twist-on wire connector with a hole in the top. This method is similar to the long tail method, except that the long tail feeds through the Greenie, and the remaining grounding conductors are connected to the long tail using the Greenie as a twist-on wire connector. The bit of wire protruding from the end of the Greenie is then wrapped around the ground screw, or attached to the box using a ground clamp
Materials
Twist-on wire connectors

Crimp Connectors

Ground Screw

Ground Clip

Greenie® Grounding Connector


A spline across that miter would work very well to reinforce it. Depending on the thickness of the rail, you could even use two.

This is very similar to this question


Can you mix 12/2 and 10/2 wire on a 20 amp circuit?

There is nothing in the code that restricts mixing wire sizes, as long as the smallest wire meets the minimum allowed by ratings of terminations selected from 310.16 and minimum sizes in 240.4.

If fact in commercial work where circuits feed areas that are sometimes 100' or more from an electrical panel it is standard procedure to run those "homeruns" with the next larger size wire to reduce the voltage loss created by resistance of the wire, then the distribution to device locations is done with minimum allowed size.


Lower attic floor joists to increase head room

I doubt if you’ll be able to add an upstairs room without a special variance from your Building Department.
There are several issues: 1) Its a structural change so you’ll need a Building Permit, 2) the Code requires a minimum ceiling height, 3) minimum floor area required for habitable rooms, 4) window required in habitable rooms and if it’s a sleeping room, an egress window is required.

Not only is a Building Permit required, but if the value of the structure increases 25% or more, then the entire structure will need to be brought up to code. (Each State has a different threshold for this requirement, so check with your local Building Department.)

The minimum ceiling height for habitable rooms is 7’, but 50% of the floor area can have a sloping ceiling, but none can be lower than 5’. (See ICC R305)

The minimum habitable room size is 70 square feet and the minimum dimension in any direction cannot be less than 7’. (See ICC R304) Remember, those dimensions must meet the room height dimensions noted above.

You’ll need to add a window (or skylight if not a sleeping room.

Btw, a habitable room is defined as a room used for living, sleeping eating or cooking. Bathrooms, closets, halls, storage, or utility spaces are not considered habitable spaces.
Also, your new stairway must meet the current code too, including maximum riser height, minimum tread depth, etc.
Summary: Regardless of the structural adequacy of your floor and foundation system, there are many requirements that will be difficult meet. I’d recommend meeting with your local Building Officials to insure you are eligible.


Do not waste your time. Salt got to it and needs to be replaced. Do one step at a time. band-aid just waste of money and time. Metal grate may be better. No snow and less salt. Check on grate high heels may be problem. And not code in area.


These kinds of problems are very difficult to diagnose without being on site. Rather than guessing at a single fix, let me give you a process to follow.  Think of electricity as a closed water system, with hot water coming in and cold water draining out. What we are looking for is a leak in the system. I'd start at the breaker. Check the load screw to the ground/neutral buss. 120vac ok? yes, then we move further down the line to the next possible junction point. At each subsequent point, check your hot side to neutral and to ground until you find the point where there is no longer a proper 120vac measurement. When you find this point, if you have 120 hot to ground, but not to the neutral, you have an open neutral. Turn OFF the power and check the neutral to ground with an ohm meter. It should be very close to 0 ohms.  If you see no voltage to either neutral or ground, and the neutral to ground is 0 ohms, then you have an open hot.  Check the input side of the GFIC and the load side in a similar method.  If you try to follow a very straight logic, testing the three possibilites at each point,(open ground/open neutral/open hot) hopefully you will find the culprit.   Good Luck


Do I seal just the grout or the tiles and grout?

This greatly depends on the type tile you have. If it is a manmade tile such as porcelain, or ceramic, then you don't have to worry about sealing it.

Most natural stone tiles, especially softer or water permeable stone such as marble, limestone/travertine, and slate should be sealed as well. This would ideally be done prior to grouting to prevent the stone from being stained by the grout. It would also be a good idea to use an unsanded grout with natural stone, especially marble because the sand from the grout could leave scratches in the surface.


No, it is plaster with animal hairs in it, probably pig or cow hair.

To determine if there are asbestos fibers inside the plaster, break it apart and examine with magnifying glass. Asbestos is a fine white fiber. It looks like this:

The fibers on the right are asbestos, those on the left are animal hairs. Asbestos fibers will be colorless, very fine and clumped together, like in the photograph. Animal hairs tend to be by themselves and have color. Notice that an animal fiber will be rounded, but asbestos tends to be stiff like a corn stalk with crinkles or breaks in it.


How can I safely splice wires inside a lamp?

The requirements for luminaires (lamps, light fixtures) are in Section 410 of the NEC.  In particular, for mechanical strength, we should start with 410.38(A):

Tubing for Arms.  Tubing used for arms and stems where provided with cut
threads shall not be less than 1.02mm (0.040 in.) in thickness and, where
provided with rolled (pressed) threads, shall not be less than 0.64mm (0.025
in.) in thickness.  Arms and other parts shall be fastened to prevent turning.

Your black iron pipe should meet this requirement with ease -- most of it will be Schedule 40, which has plenty of wall thickness.  Just make sure that you have all joints securely tightened (wrench tight, not just finger tight)!
You will also need a bushing (or clamp) of some type to protect the cord from strain where it exits the pipe as per 410.44:

Cord Bushings. A bushing or the equivalent shall be provided where
flexible cord enters the base or stem of a portable lamp.  The bushing
shall be of insulating material unless a jacketed type of cord is
used.

Now, to what you asked about, which starts off in sections 410.22 through 410.24 and 410.28 of the Code.

Luminaire (Fixture) Wiring -- General.  Wiring on or within fixtures
shall be neatly arranged and shall not be exposed to physical damage.  Excess
wiring shall be avoided.  Conductors shall be arranged so that they are not
subjected to temperatures above those for which they are rated.
Polarization of Luminaires (Fixtures).  Luminaires (fixtures) shall be
wired so that the screw shells of lampholders are connected to the same
luminaire (fixture) or circuit conductor or terminal.  The grounded conductor,
where connected to a screw-shell lampholder, shall be connected to the screw
shell.
Conductor Insulation.  Luminaires (fixtures) shall be wired with
conductors having insulation suitable for the environmental conditions,
current, voltage, and temperature to which the conductors will be subjected.

This all should be obvious to you: don't cook, snag, stretch, or snake your wire, and use the right size -- as you mentioned three lampholders, we can presume that you're using medium base as that's what household light bulbs use, which leads us to a maximum of 300W, or roughly 2.5A of current -- 18AWG TFFN fixture wire can handle this with ease (its ampacity under the Code is 6A as per table 402.5), and is rated to 90 degrees C.  Also, wire up your lampholders correctly (reverse polarity lampholders are real people-zappers)!

Protection of Conductors and Insulation.
(A) Properly Secured.  Conductors shall be secured in a manner that does
not tend to cut or abrade the insulation.
(B) Protection through Metal.  Conductor insulation shall be protected
from abrasion where it passes through metal.
(C) Luminaire (Fixture) Stems. Splices and taps shall not be located
within luminaire (fixture) arms or stems.
(D) Splices and Taps.  No unnecessary splices or taps shall be made within
or on a luminaire (fixture).
FPN:  For approved means of making connections, see 110.14.
(E) Stranding.  Stranded conductors shall be used for wiring on luminaire
(fixture) chains and on other movable or flexible parts.
(F) Tension.  Conductors shall be arranged so that the weight of the
luminaire (fixture) or movable parts does not put tension on the conductors.

All in all -- this means you'll be splicing in the base of your lamp, and putting some sort of extra insulation in the pipe to prevent wires from rubbing against the pipe.  (If nothing else, a square or octagonal metal junction box would make a reasonable 'hub' for your lamp base.  Just attach the black iron pipe as if it were conduit, and put a blank metal faceplate on it to serve as a bottom piece.)  The extra insulation material will also get you compliance with 410.18(A):

(A) Exposed Conductive Parts.  Exposed metal parts shall be grounded or
insulated from ground and other conducting surfaces or be inaccessible to
unqualified personnel.  Lamp tie wires, mounting screws, clips, and decorative
bands on glass at least 38mm (1 1/2 in.) from lamp terminals shall not be
required to be grounded.

As to the FPN mentioning 110.14 (which is where the answer to your specific question is, the rest of this is for the next guy from Google who finds this post!), the relevant section is 110.14(B):

(B) Splices.  Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices
identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible
metal or alloy.  Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to
be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be
soldered.  All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be
covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with
an insulating device identified for the purpose.
(second paragraph of quote omitted as it is utterly irrelevant for this answer)

So, wirenuts or push-in connectors are the best idea here -- they're identified for the purpose (clearly!), provide their own insulating device, and are trivial to obtain.


Depending on the pipe layout between the baseboard and the boiler, it's not too uncommon for the baseboard closest to the boiler (typically) to have an inadvertent thermosiphon when off, which can cause the temperature to rise above the setpoint of the thermostat.

If the temperature is not rising above the setpoint, see @ratchet freak's answer and @JACK's comment


How do I replace my electrical receptacle?

The fact that four neutral (white) wires are connected is not a problem, but the method of connection is. Putting two wires under a terminal screw is not permitted (even if often done) and can lead to a bad connection.

The proper way to connect multiple wires in a box is to connect two or more with wire nuts or the newer push-in connectors (follow wire nut/connector limits on number of wires). While two neutral wires can be attached to the same side of an outlet and this provides connectivity, it is generally considered a poor technique, since a failure in the outlet may disable a downstream device.

In a box with two cables, the preferred way to connect the neutral to the outlet is with a pigtail. Join a short white wire with the two other whites and connect with a wire nut. An additional neutral can be added if there are three cables or a second outlet is present. For more wires, you can join wire bundles with pigtails so long as you do not exceed the required box volume limits.

Hot (black or red) wires can be similarly bundled with wirenuts and pigtails, but this occurs slightly less often because black wires are often separately routed to and from switches.

Connect your neutrals using wire nuts and a pigtail to the neutral side of the GFCI. Connect the hot directly to the outlet.


Identifying a piece of cast iron hardware

That is a ceiling light mounting plate, used with knob-and-tube wiring.

The flathead screws would fasten the plate to a ceiling joist, and the wires were fed through the larger holes. The center hole is intended to support the weight of the light, via another part that is missing from your example.

I think the setscrews held small insulators, probably ceramic or bakelite.

Two of the wire holes are opened, and the other two still have their knockout plugs in place. Four holes were needed only when continuing the wiring to another fixture.

Knob-and-tube wiring, and fixtures like these, are now obsolete and may not be legally installed in the U.S. Existing Knob-and-tube may be left in place, but not extended or modified. Any changes require complete replacement, which was probably done in your friend's house at some point.


Shower tile inside corner vertical joint

Inside corners should always be caulked, not grouted. Walls move, and when grout moves it cracks. If you're using epoxy grout on the walls you can actually use it in the corners too but keep in mind it's more difficult to work with especially in corners. If you're using epoxy grout on the walls and going to caulk the corners, epoxy grout the horizontal lines first and then caulk the corner after the grout sets.


Is it ok to cut an access panel into the drywall above my service panel?

Code requires the wires to be covered it doesn’t specify anything other than 1/2” Sheetrock or plywood. I do create access points in my home and some jobs that need them the only difference is I have a piece of trim over the cut usually held in place by Velcro. I can see an inspector having an issue with the cut especially if the wall is common with a living space , if an outside wall I doubt they would say anything.

Added for more info:
Note sometimes these flaps are cut so the clamps can be installed. I use a plastic clamp called “insiders” Raco brand, punch the knockout feed the wire through the hole then slide the insider down the wire into the hole and it clamps the wire. I used to have to cut those flaps but with the insiders I just have to fish the wire through the hole.
Note I have no links to these other than I love them and have been using them for quite a while saving time and $ even on new installs.


Updated handle ties for double pole breakers were added in 1981 I was confusing that with multiwire branch circuits because the local jurisdiction added mwbc ties the same year but the NEC required handle ties in 99 or 02 if they landed in the same box or yoke and later in 08 all mwbc’s required handle ties for the reasons listed below.
I believe you have tandem breakers looking at the double pole compared to the other breakers, if they are tandem your setup would be ok. 4 breakers on 2 poles the left 2 are on leg1 the right 2 on leg2  they make ties to connect the outside 2 and clips or brads for the inside 2. Back when your home was built they were not required and you do not have to update them. If it was my home I would swap the wires so the mwbc was on the center 2 and cut a 6 penny nail so when it is put in it doesn’t extend below the bottom handle this will make it safer so anyone working on either of those 2 circuits doesn’t get a Wake up call from mr zap. But I would verify they are tandems so you know you are on separate legs in any case (measuring the 2 Hotta should show 240v that’s good, if 0 it will need to be moved.)
The 2 breakers being tied together on a 240v service means they are on separate legs. This is needed because if you want to work on circuit one and they were not handle tied you can get knocked on your butt or worse because the neutral is the return path and is carrying the voltage back to the source so although not required on your home it is a good idea
Having a common neutral is legal and common to do this it is called a multiwire branch circuit.
Both share the same neutral. They can do this because with 240v single phase leg 1 is at the maximum positive voltage while leg 2 is at a negative max they actually cancel each other out if exactly the same size the imbalance is returned via the neutral.
With all the AFCI and GFCI requirements multiwire branch circuits are not used as often because of false trips, they they are /were used is you get a second circuit for 1 extra wire this can save a lot of $ especially with a large home or on a longer run to the panel.


Is there any reason I shouldn't make my own stair treads?

Wear.

The overlays appear to be solid hardwood.  The plywood is a thin veneer over other non hardwood plys. As the steps wear, you run the risk of wearing through the veneer. Even if you don't, if you need to refinish, you again risk sanding through that thin top layer.

In my old house, the bottom stair had a worn dip in the middle (reputedly eroded by my younger son's butt that perched there in his many time-outs). A veneer would have been long gone.


Is it against code to secure junction box using Liquid Nails?

Article 314.23(B) of the National Electrical Code, says that the enclosure must be rigidly supported.

  NEC 2008
  314.23 Supports.
  (B) Structural Mounting An enclosure supported from a structural member of a building or from grade shall be rigidly supported either
  directly or by using a metal, polymeric, or wood brace.

Whether or not liquid nails would meet this criteria may be up to interpretation, so it's best to check with your local inspector to determine if they'd allow it.

The other (better) option, would be to use an old work box. Which is allowed by subsection C of the same section.

  NEC 2008
  314.23 Supports.
  (C) Mounting in Finished Surfaces. An enclosure mounted in a finished surface shall be rigidly secured thereto by clamps, anchors,
  or fittings identified for the application.


Mounting an outdoor ceiling fan in a pergola?

I am with you, the first one is much more attractive.
The jct box must be mounted on a cross member, 2x4?, and then they added boards with a hole for the jct box.
It would be just same as if it was in ceiling and drywall except the box would need to be set at the correct depth for the thickness of the wood.


Mounting a microwave w/o the upper cabinet

The microwave doesn't "dead hang" from the shelf (very little would be able to support a microwave if that were the case). There's typically a mounting bracket you put on the wall and the cabinet holds the front up.

It should be noted that there's no way to mount it solely to the wall (this quote typifies all the answers)

  I just hung a Whirlpool OTR microwave and attaching to the upper cabinet is a requirement. The lower bracket supports the back of the microwave, but does not keep it from rotating down.

The only way I've seen this done is either with a bracket or shelf under the microwave. (which limits the size)


How do I run a new conductor on an existing kopex tube?

Without knowing the details for the Kopex tube (though it looks like it's probably some sort of flex conduit from a quick search) The normal way to "add wires to conduit" unless it's a very short distance is to shut off the power to the affected circuit(s); disconnect the wires at one end; attach a rope; pull the wires out the other end; pulling the rope in, attach the new wire, and pull them all back in together.
While this appears (to the uninitiated) to be a lot more bother than "just adding a wire" there is no "just" to adding a wire unless it's a very short, preferably straight section of conduit.
If there's no wire in the conduit in the first place, pulling a string in with a vacuum or getting a fish tape through are typical ways to get started. My personal experience favors the vacuum.
Using a fish tape or rod in a conduit with wires in place risks damaging the insulation on those wires and generally gets all tangled up in them anyway.


What to do to sink cabinet so that water won't leak under it

Have you ever heard the phrase "Lightning never strikes twice"?
I think you're trying to prepare for an accident that is unlikely to happen again.
Sure, you can re-floor the cupboard, wedge it slightly at the back to ensure it slopes towards you, cut as best you can round the pipes, perhaps keep a fillet as insert round the back of the larger pipe, then gob it all in with silicone, including tanking the edges so the only way water can go is out the cupboard door. Don't use good glue & don't run the silicone underneath except for a couple of stabilising dots, just in case you do ever need it out again.
Then wait to see if it ever happens again. For most people, two leaks in a lifetime would be a fair average… and in two different places, unless they have a poor fix the first time.
As mentioned in comments, you could tie a small piece of cloth round each & see if one shows signs of damp &/or mould… but your cold feed is likely to sweat (condensation will form) in humid weather, so that could be misleading.


As suggested: If water is not running it can wait. The problem may be that when it thaws the pipe may have ruptured. If the pipe is ruptured and the ice melts it could make a mess in a wall but it may also be a pipe under the house that you may not realize it is leaking unless it is large and your water pressure drops. But with cold temps some times it can take a few days above freezing and closer to 40 to thaw if the floors are insulated. You may get lucky and not have any leaks when it thawes out.


Daisy Chain 120V Disconnect Box from existing 240V box

One proper way to do this would be to install a small subpanel, with the 30A and 20A circuits in it. You could install other circuits (e.g., additional 15A or 20A circuits for lighting, receptacles, tools, etc.) in the same subpanel.


craftsman shop vac motor stuck on reverse

I'm just tunnel-visioned. I was sure I had plugged it into the correct socket, but no.

Stupid User Trick

Sorry


Wiring two receptacles to an existing one

Normally when there is a switched receptacle only 1 of the 2 are switched. The cable that is black , white, red & ground.
the white is neutral Silver screw . the red goes to the switched hot Brass in color.
the tab between the top and bottom is broken on the hot side or the side that has the red and black wire.
The black wire normally always hot Is on the other brass connector.  The second cable is usually black to black , white to white and bare copper to bare copper.
This is how it would be wired when the power is going to the switch from the panel then the extra cable black white feeds another receptacle, to add another non switched receptacle tie to the black white ground.
If the room doesn’t have a light fixture controlled by a switch you need to keep the switched receptacle for code compliance.


7mm (~0.28 in) is quite a bit of crowning, more than can be absorbed by the thinset bed you'll set your cement board in.  You'll need to level the floor before you can continue, which you already know.

Dealing with crowning is tricky because you need to raise the rest of the floor to be level. You can use a self-leveling compound or similar skimcoat to raise the floor but that can be expensive if doing a large area at such a thickness.  You can also get 1/4" (6mm) OSB and glue and screw pieces in the low areas, then use the leveler or skim coat to finish the job.  That will save some money since OSB is usually much less expensive per square foot than leveling mortar.

You might know this already, but for the sake of others who come here looking for help:

Do not put tile directly on a wooden subfloor

Wood, even subfloor, moves with changes in temperature and humidity.  Tile does not.  Adhering tile directly to a wooden subfloor will usually result in the tile popping free after a while.  To prevent this, we trowel out a bed of thinset, lay cement board (which does not move), and then thinset the tile to the cement board. This decouples the tile from the wooden floor and gives it a stable surface to support it.  There are other decoupling systems available, such as Schluter DITRA, but they all have the same purpose.


I finally took the grill off! Two screws on it were super to be found, those are at right and left side but between grids. Turn on flushlight of your phone to find it. Also, I checked with king electric, no air filter can be installed on it. But at least you can clean it once you get it opened.


Where did all the water in the basement come from.

From the efflorescence on the walls, I'd bet there's slow steady seepage through the blocks and the mortar.  The only solution for this would be an external entrenching and wrap.

Also:


How are tandem breakers used in multi-branch circuits?

By "multi branch circuits" you mean multi-wire branch circuits or MWBCs.

How do MWBCs and tandems go together?  THEY DON'T.

Either

the electrician ran new wire, eliminating the MWBCs,  or
he carefully placed them on opposite poles (you have to know how to do that) and totally ignored the Code requiring handle ties, and is just hoping the next guy doesn't carelessly rearrange them onto the same pole, or
he slapped them on a tandem and the neutral wire is glowing cherry red right now.

If you want to do that same thing, your best bet is to put both pairs of your MWBCs onto a 2-pole/2-pole quadplex.  That's what he should have done.

Making your own handle tie is out of the question.  Listed handle ties arent available for duplex breakers, but they don't need to be, since quadplex breakers are readily available.


Are there skilled professionals who will supervise unskilled DIY labor?

DIY projects, probably not. The price would negate any financial benefit of doing it yourself in many cases. That said, I've resorted to the beer-for-services approach many times for electrical and plumbing consulting visits from friends and relatives, which is usually win-win.

Major remodels and builds, yes. In fact, my family's company offered such a service at one time. We'd make regular trips to your jobsite and create reports of progress and areas of concern. You'd be the general contractor of record. It was a way to save tens of thousands of dollars on a project, yet still have peace of mind that it was done well, and it helped grease the wheels with inspectors and sub-contractors. The service probably falls under the umbrella term "building consultant", but there may be others.


Is wood flooring in bathroom a right decision?

I'd like to suggest an alternative: There are tile product designed to resemble wood planks. That would obviously yield a much more water-resistant floor.


Can I remove my vent covers without disconnecting the duct?

I would get rid of duct work.  Install new duct work or at the very least clean the crap out of old duct work with mold products and bleach (but then again do you want the chemicals pushing through your house).

I would install rigid duct if possible.  If your flex got mold and you didn't "fix" the issue of why it got mold then your new flex will probably get mold too.  I would then wrap your rigid duct in plastic then insulation.

And just to your answer.  Yes unscrew your vent cover, it won't hurt anything.


Starting point of herringbone pattern with double accent border

With the hearing bone pattern you start in the center.
Make all angled cuts the same or it will show to a trained eye at 20’ everyone else will notice something wrong. Any deviation in the room is taken up in the border you can hide a 1/2” out of square room with the border and it can be hard to detect but have the same deviation in your angled cuts and it shows.


Doubts about quality of wood-frame construction

None of this should be acceptable if you are paying someone to build you a shed.  Period.  Yes it passes inspection because it is not a habitable space, meaning that code wouldn't allow someone to live there so the only thing the inspector cares about is "Will this collapse and fall on someone?"

I am thinking you paid this company money based on a more stringent guideline of the building not collapsing.  I would make them fix each of these issues or tell them that you can find someone to do that and take that off their cost.  If you have not paid them in full you have all the leverage you need.  Any small claims court would not accept this from a professional company - it is not like you hired Joe from craigslist.  Now if you have already paid them fully, your beef still is right but good luck getting them to fix anything other than the window and rescrew door.


what size of beam should I use to replace 3 2x8 that is 16 feet?

That's an extremely long span for 2x8s, even tripled. Do you know whether there was ever an intermediate post? Most would suggest that you have a engineer look over your situation. Existing framing isn't always a good indicator of what to use.

At any rate, a pair of 1-3/4" microlam (or laminated veneer lumber--LVL) beams will almost certainly suffice. The only question is what the height needs to be for your load.


What is a good technique for cutting in when painting?

This verges on "opinion based..."

Brush width depends what you are working on - for wall corners, 2" is
probably fine. On our last project, my assistant finally figured out
that using an overly tiny brush on window muntins was slower, not
faster or more precise, but for that job a 1/2-5/8" brush was "about
right."
I go for the long handled angled - how much that is the physical
characteristics .vs. how much that is one of the better quality
brushes I own is possibly debatable.
If the brush needs a haircut, give it a haircut - while this ties
back to brush quality to an extent, any brush can get "flyaway
bristles" - cut them off ruthlessly. For lower end brushes, this can
improve them a lot, practically speaking.
Dipping the brush in water (latex) or thinner (oils) and then
flinging/brushing out the water/thinner will tend to reduce clogging
of the brush "cavity" or reservior for paint, .vs. just dipping it
straight into paint. It's not absolutely required, but it make
through cleaning much easier, and through cleaning is the way to keep
a good quality brush alive for a long time. A good brush costs enough that you should take care of it.
Personally, I thin the paint a bit if it needs it, but figure if it's
quality paint it already has whatever additive package the paint manufacturer
thinks best.

@bibs comment about the death-grip is probably relevant to your pain the last time. The other thing, which does get better, is that this is one of those things where practice really does make perfect (or at least you learn how to make it look more perfect, even if the process isn't quite that perfect) and as non-professional painters most of us simply don't do it enough to build the skill to a high level. As such, just the stress over "doing a good enough job" can make you tense up (and that also makes it harder to paint well, on top of hurting.) Admire an amateur painter's paint job and they will nearly always wander off into to pointing out invisible and virtually invisible flaws which they perceive as if neon-lit with giant arrows pointing at them, even in the face of compliments about how nice it looks.


Why won't GFCIs indicator light show on plug?

As @Tester101 said, not all GFCI's have lights that display in the normal (as opposed to the tripped) state.

If the test and reset buttons work as expected, you're probably fine.

If you want to be absolutely sure, get a GFCI tester (US$5 or so). If the tester's lights say you're hooked up correctly, and tapping its button trips the GFCI, you're fine.


Identifying old armored electric wire and mounting new fixture

The big thing is figuring out which wire is switched hot and which wire is neutral. Note that it is possible, due to messed up wiring, to have some other combination, such as hot and a switched neutral, which would not be a good thing.
Use a non-contact tester to:

Verify that both wires are "dead" with the circuit breaker (or fuse) off. If not, stop and ask a question. (There can be false positives, but really shouldn't be on a simple fixture connection, as opposed to wires in a box with a bunch of other wires).
Turn on the breaker. Verify that both wires are "dead" with the light switch off. If not, stop and ask a question, as you may have a switched neutral.
Turn on the switch. Identify which wire is hot. This wire is the switched hot. The other wire is the neutral. Mark the neutral wire with white tape.

Turn off the breaker. Wire nut the light fixture hot (typically black, but could be any color except white, green or bare) to the switched hot wire. Wire nut the light fixture neutral (should be white) to the neutral wire. Turn on the breaker, test.


What would happen if I covered my deck in pavers?

What could go wrong?

The concrete pavers are slightly porous and will wick water every time it rains. This will keep water against the wood deck boards for much longer than normal and will shorten the life of the wood. So, less sealing but shorter deck life.

I would find a good oil based sealer like tung or timber oil that will last for more than one season. (I used to use Thompson's but it doesn't last for more than one year.)

Good luck!


Double-pole breaker connected to two receptacles/outlets on same column/post

OK.  Based on the information you gave, it appears the last person wired this as a plain 240V circuit "NEMA 6" style.  He did not change the receptacles to NEMA 6-15 or 6-20 as Code requires.  Perhaps he didn't know that was possible, or didn't want to spend the money on sockets and cords.  I suspect he had some large loads that worked on dual-voltage 120V/240V. We're seeing a lot of this sort of wack-a-dack work being done by Bitcoin miners etc.

The circuit also stops at these receptacles and goes onward to somewhere else.  It is possible that "somewhere else" is a hardwired 240V load.  Look out for something that suddenly stops working.

Anyway, the answer is to convert it back to a 120V circuit, and this is very easy.

First you will need to rollback the experimentation you did with the socket breakaway tabs - either pigtail a wire to each screw, or just get new receptacles. The tabs should not be broken.

Then, you'll need to open up the service panel, which is a hazardous work location because parts are energized even with all breakers off.  That 2-pole breaker will have a black and a white wire going to it. (if it has black and red, STOP and ask us about that!) Remove the white from the breaker and place it on the neutral bar. Done.

(yes, this means that half the 2-pole breaker will be dangling, doing nothing.  I don't care if you don't.  If you ever need more space in the panel, you can swap that 2-pole for a 1-pole CH120, but it's simply not a priority.  Or if  you add another 1-pole 120V 20A circuit, you can tack it on the unused half of that breaker, though it will have common trip with this circuit.)

While you're in the panel, some of the breakers appear to be setting "skewed" from where they belong. It may be a mis-fitting panel cover.   I can tell from the color that it is a CH panel, and the breakers are CH, so they should fit properly. Do not use the cover screws as jacks to force the cover to close. If the cover won't lay down correctly, look for things getting in the way, like wires where they should not be.  Feel free to neaten up the wire lays, but don't cut wires short.  Every hot and its partner neutral should be able to reach any breaker in the panel.


Can hardwood flooring be floated over concrete with a moisture barrier and underlayment?

If you mean a 3/4" or 5/8" thick tongue and groove hardwood flooring, no, that is for nail or staple down only. Click-lock laminate flooring is made for floating installations, you may find an engineered wood floor for floating install too.

If you want a true hardwood floor, there is a nail base that I have used for below grade basements that would work in your situation for sound proofing or deadening. You will not need it for moisture barrier, nor should you need a layer of poly for the same reason. You are not installing on a below grade or slab on grade situation where the infiltration of moisture would be a concern.

The material is a 2' by 2' square of OSB with a plastic "dimple mat". It is available at the big box stores and will serve as a great nail base and sound deadening, but you will need to deal with the new height of your floors which will be over an 1 1/2" than what you have now. It will affect door clearance at the bottom and maybe cabinets.

There are engineered harwood floors for floating install. There are rolls of lead impregnated vinyl sheets that are used for sound deadening that can go down first as the underlayment. This will keep the thickness down so perhaps you will not need to cut all your door bottoms in the area of the new floor.

As a note, again, with your concrete floors being well above grade, you should not have an issue with moisture. If you do, there are bigger issues need to be resolved by the building manager first.


As Carl noted above, if a pipe/system cannot pull fresh air in as water fills up the pipe on it's way out, a siphoning affect is created which can pull the water out of the 'u bend' in the toilet during a flush.

The vent is usually the last or highest part in the system. Look for the pipe outside as it vents into fresh air, usually through the roof or on an outside wall (in the UK at least).

It's a bit rare for a vent to get blocked though (birds and animals occasionally) as the pipe normally only has air in it! It's possible the pipe is blocked where the bottom of the vent pipe joins the sewer pipe (if the pipe gets backed up or such like).


What could be the reason for the Microwave door to have burning spots and smell after use?

For some reason I read past "9 year old microwave"... well here you go:

Bad magnetron

Or this: (Personally, I'd be a little less lax on saying, eh... it's fine)

Sparking and scorch marks in microwave. What's going on here?
It's possible that either the glass or the [frozen food] allowed charge to build up to the point of arcing. It's also possible that there is something wrong with the microwave. Try putting a cup of water in the microwave and running it for about 30 seconds. If there is no arcing then the microwave itself is probably fine. If you continue to have arcing then replace the microwave.

-engineer_comp_geek, straightdope.com

Microwaves don't like ice. -thenakedscientists.com


In the UK, the term I'd associate is "bleeding the radiators", and there will be a little valve at the top of each radiator to release trapped air, something a little like:

These are typically operated with a "bleed key" (the brass object resting on the fins of that radiator), or sometimes the valves are also slotted for use with a screwdriver - they typically require less than a quarter turn to operate, and you'll either hear the air hissing out, or see water dribbling through - Always have a cloth or rag held close and tight to the radiator as water will come out once the air has gone.

With regards to picking an order, every system is different, and you'll come to learn which radiator tends to fill with air first (so in my case, it's the one on my upstairs landing, next to the hot water cylinder cupboard, but in my parents house, it's the one in their downstairs hallway). As the system is new to you, it may just be a case of doing each in turn.

You should check the pressure after bleeding, especially if there was a significant amount of air trapped.


How do I treat crumbling lath and plaster in my bathroom?

I recommend replacing all or part of the wall with drywall. Specifically, greenboard. If you patch only part of the wall you may need to use furring strips or use a thicker greenboard to make it flush.

As a bonus, if you rip apart part of the wall you may find there is something else hidden back there that is causing this issue which you can address at that time.


What will happen if I perimeter bond vinyl flooring against manufacturer recommendation?

I believe the issue is that the center of the flooring material can expand and if the entire perimeter is bonded, the center will wave or wrinkle.  When the entire floor is bonded, and expansion and contraction happens on a smaller scale.

That said, I have never installed sheet vinyl and I don't know what the right solution is.


Because that works out with other common deck and building components and aligns with decades-old convention. For example:

Decking lengths are usually in 2' increments
Decking is built for specific spans with respect to strength and stiffness
Floor sheathing is 8' long (which sets the standard)
Joist bridging is sized for 16" centers
Insulation is sized for 16" centers (when you convert your deck to a three-season porch)

Etc., etc. Incidentally, 19.2" is also a common joist interval because it works out to 8'.

In your case there's probably no immediate reason you couldn't do something non-standard, if your decking is rated for the span you go with. Code probably doesn't address joist interval as long as it meets the requirements of the other system components.


What is the name of this recliner couch screw holder?

Doesn't really matter what they're called. They're almost certainly proprietary and shown in an exploded parts diagram somewhere with a number next to them. You won't find them in hardware stores (real or online).

You'll need to get in touch with the manufacturer one way or another, or you'll need to fabricate something that performs the same function without the efficiency of design afforded by that exact part. It could be that a block of nylon with dimples drilled in each face does the job, for example, or maybe a sleeve nut and some bolts.


Why is my table saw blade burning oak boards as I make rip cuts?

High tooth count will give smooth results in most cases, but they can heat up in hard wood.  More teeth leads to more friction.  It's probably a fine all purpose blade, but ripping a hardwood like oak, especially very thick boards, is probably a reason to use a dedicated ripping blade.

Ripping blades have 24-30 teeth, and the tooth profile is flat on top.  Some may have a slightly thicker kerf to avoid binding if the board twists or pinches when it's cut.  Each tooth takes a bigger bite, but when you're going with the grain, you can afford to do that.  Fewer teeth means less friction and heat.


Can 8-3 wire be used with a 10-50R 3 wire receptacle?

A NEMA 10-50R device does not have a grounding pin, so your father-in-law likely simply didn't connect the grounding conductor from the cable. A NEMA 14-50R, which should have been used, does have a grounding pin.

Technically, you should have installed a 14-50 receptacle in the first place (to be code compliant). That being said. Loads of old homes have 10-50R devices in place, and have worked fine that way for many years. As it's currently wired, the range should continue to function without a problem. However, without a proper ground, there's always the potential for electric shock. It's up to you, whether or not you think the potential dangers are great enough to take action.


Trouble getting bathroom fan/light working


Building a retaining wall with dense concrete blocks, best way to lay each course?

use the first way only if you like the way it looks, stretcher bond is stronger.


How can I hang drywall from a ceiling made out of aluminium insulated panels?

Do you need the fire resistance and sound-deadening of drywall, or just want the look?

You might consider something else that would look quite similar but not have the weight.

I put textured paintable wallpaper over wood paneling, like
this textured wallpaper.  Once painted, it blended right in with the drywalled wall next to it.  Nobody knows it isn't drywall, even standing right next to it.


How do I wire a wifi light switch with wiring that doesn't match the install instructions?

The group of white wires are the neutrals: 1 coming from the supply and one going to each switched circuit. Don't separate them, just add the smart switch's white wire to the wirenut.
The red wire is the switched hot to the load: connect this to the red wire on the smart switch.
The black wire on the backstab is the hot from the supply. The hot on the screw is continuing the hot to the second switch, using the guts of the old switch as a jumper. This is not at all unusual. Assuming you want to keep the second switch, take both existing blacks and combine these with the black wire from the smart switch, using a wirenut.
When you attach a wirenut, twist it on tight and then pull on each wire to make sure it's secure.


Most consumer-grade fans are not designed for upgrades. My recommendation is to look for a better fan. The 2 key things to look for are:

Airflow - typically measured in CFM - higher is better
Sound - measured in decibels or sone - lower is better


My basement ceiling\ground floor has a "truss" system. How to hang things?

Truss systems like that have "strongbacks" at intervals--vertically oriented 2x6 lumber that ties the trusses together and shares load among them. For anything under about 500 lbs. I have no concerns except one:

If you suspend a heavy object at a point along the bottom chord that falls in the center of the gap between web connections, the bottom chord could sag over time. This could result in a bulge in the ceiling, but certainly won't damage the truss system. To avoid this, either be sure to hang from at or near the webbing connection, or spread the load to limit weight at each point to around 100 lbs.


How do you comply with NEC receptacle requirements in row homes with brick walls?

I see two options. What I see in the US quite a bit is instead of running the plastic channels on the wall surface, people will use steel conduit. It gives kind of a rustic/industrial look. Receptacles would then be mounted in steel boxes on the wall surface as well.

What is typical in Germany, where most walls are block and plaster, is that grooves are cut into the plaster, conduit laid into the grooves, and then the whole thing gets covered with plaster again. There are specific tools for this called wall chasers, they have a set of blades kind of like a dado set that let you cut a groove into the plaster. This would obviously be more work and much more messy than the first option. In addition to cutting the channel for the conduit, you would of course also need to chisel out holes for the boxes that would probably go through both the plaster and partially into the brick.
As Harper points out, in the US, it is probably required by code to use conduit, and either way, it would be common sense to do so for protection of the cable, as well as future replacement.


How do low power draw devices not cause problems?

The last sentence in your first paragraph is wrong.  A device drawing load on the wires does not reduce their load, it does not prevent them from heating up.  Actually, putting a 2 amp load on a pair of wires increases its load (by 2 amps) and causes it to heat up (by W=I2R or W=2*2*R watts, with R being its resistance in ohms). So a 0.1 ohm wire is now making 0.4 watts of heat when it wasn't before.

If it helps, recognize that some loads have electrical characteristics which naturally limit how much current they flow at a design voltage.  We supply them that designed constant-voltage, and they sip only the current they need.  For instance a resistive "1500W" heater will limit its draw to about 12 amps.

Not all loads have this ability.  Some loads cannot limit their current and will flow uncontrollable amounts of current if supplied a constant voltage.  A great example is a fluorescent tube, which is why fluorescents have ballasts.

However if some outside force limits how much current they can draw, then they behave in reasonable ways: the voltage that they "drop" (consume) at that current is reasonable, and produces useful work -- like light from the fluorescent tube or LED emitter. It's possible to build a constant-current power supply which will forcibly limit current to spec. This power supply need not be constant-current; it can be varying-current, the point is, it must limit current because the device it's attached to can't.

How do you hook up multiples of these?

For constant-voltage devices of the same working voltage, for instance a bunch of iPhone chargers that want 120VAC -- you supply them all spec voltage, and you hook them up in parallel.  Each device "sips" the current that it needs, and no more.  The power supply must push enough current to work all the devices.

For constant-current devices of the same working current, for instance several bare LED emitters that want 350 milliamps -- you supply them all spec current, and you hook them up in series.  Each device gets its design current (because everything in a series loop gets the same current), and each one "drops the voltage" it needs to function.  The power supply must push out enough voltage to work all the devices.

What happens if you take a constant-voltage device like a small heater, designed to run at 117V and which will tend to draw 350ma... and you put it in series with constant-current load (like an LED emitter with rectifier) that is designed to draw 350ma and drops typically 3 volts? That will work, actually.  The constant-voltage heater will act as a current-limiter for the LED, keeping the LED in spec at 350ma.

In mains power, you are dealing with devices designed to be constant-voltage, so you connect them in parallel.

Wire-nuts will flow unlimited amounts of current uncontrollably, so they simply do not work as constant-voltage devices.  They are better thought of as constant-current devices with very small voltage drop - like the LED in the LED-heater combo discussed above.  They must be in series with a current limiting device of some kind, like a constant-voltage appliance which is able to limit its current to within the spec of the wires.


Is there HVAC system to maintain air temperature, humidity and carbon dioxide level in the house?

A humidifier is required to increase humidity. They come with a humidistat or you can use some smart thermostats to control them.

Running the fan/furnace will not clear any accumulated CO2 or other molecular indoor pollutants. You would need to exhaust air from your house and bring in fresh air.

Normally you don't need to concern yourself with CO2 unless your house is extremely tight(r2000) . Most houses built to that standard are already equipped with one of the following; an HRV (heat recovery ventilator) or for southern climates an ERV (energy recovery ventilator). There are options for control ranging from manual to timed or continuous with boost. I'm not familiar with CO2 monitoring to bring it on.

So basically for heat you need a furnace, (which you have)
For humidity you need to add a humidifier and to maintain safe air quality you need an HRV or ERV depending on your climate.

** Dedicate HRV**www.finehomebuilding.com

** Integrated HRV**www.skepticrant.com


Better to have single butt joint or 2 tapered joints when hanging drywall?

There are merits to both. For structural support (yes, drywall adds some shear support) you want fewer joints and drywall crossing as many studs as possible. This has the side benefit of reducing the amount of taping needed and may use less mud.

For visual appeal, tapered joints are easier to completely hide with mud. Rather than spreading out the mud over a wide area to minimize the visibility of the joint, you can completely fill the taper for a perfectly smooth transition.


AC in the attic affects downstairs but not upstairs

Generally, there are not 2 fans. Instead, there are electrically controlled dampers that open and close based on signals from a control unit. The damper for your upstairs vents is probably jammed.

The control unit for the dampers is usually mounted on the wall near the air handler, or directly on the air handler. There should be 4 to 6 wires coming out of the controller: one for each thermostat, one for each damper, and possibly one or two more going to a power supply or to the air handler. They're probably labeled if you open the cover. Follow the cables to find the dampers.

The dampers that I have in my house have a cover that you can pop off to get at the damper and move it by hand.


That is a pretty jagged cut but for the most part, it doesn't matter because the light trim will cover it up and chipping won't occur that far out. Try using a hack saw blade with 32 teeth per inch. You'll get a smoother cut. I use one with a handle similar to the one shown below. You can also get a hole saw but they're not cheap if you're only doing a few holes. If you're a real fanatic for smoothness, you can coat the inside edge with some drywall mud.

(Picture from Walmart.om)