Which wire goes to which terminal on this single pole switch?

Switches don't have silver screws (unless they have brains inside)
Your rule about "black to brass, white to silver" is a good rule of thumb for how receptacles are wired.  However, since a "dumb" lightswitch simply connects terminals to other terminals, it needs no connection to the neutral wire at all, and thus has no silver screw on it to begin with.  "Smart switches" and some other devices such as many sensors and timers, though, require neutral to work so that they have a reliable source of power for their own innards.
Furthermore, prior to the 2011 NEC, electricians were freely allowed to take advantage of the fact that switches don't need neutral by running an "old style" switch loop using /2 cable as you see here.  The white should be the always-hot coming down from the fixture box and the black should be the switched-hot connecting the switch to the fixture, but that rule was not always obeyed in older wiring.  It doesn't matter from your standpoint, though; simply wrap the white wire with black electrical tape to denote that it's not neutral, then connect white and black each to a brass screw on the switch, button everything up, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy!  (There appears to be no grounding wire in your box, so there's nothing to connect to the green ground screw on your switch.)


Bathroom drainage: bath's water flooding shower

Assuming this is a newly manifested problem in and otherwise regularly functional drain system, there are 2 things to do first:

Insert your snake into the plumbing system through the shower drain, not the tub (you will have less chance of coiling it up on itself) and measure how far it goes before it hits the hard stop.  In case you don't understand, you want to have the snake be rotating the whole time you move it through the pipe.  It's designed to auger its way along and create a spiral cutting action inside the pipe (If this is a manual snake, go and get a powered one or one that has a small shaft on it to be turned by a cordless drill). My first suspicion is that the hard stop you are feeling is the elbow on the outside wall where the bathroom drain plumbing exits the brick.  If the auger stops at that distance, you can just keep pushing while rotating to get it around the elbow.  Then you can see if you can clear anymore out of the pipe.
Since the above almost never works to get rid of a blockage like what you are describing, the next thing to do is remove the inspection cap.  It's probably just cemented into place.  Just cut it off in such a way that there is a small piece of pipe left for you to cement a new cap in when you are done.  This time, install one with a removable clean out plug or cap.  Once the cap is out, run your snake through the pipe as far as it will go and see if you can cut the clog out with the snake.  Don't be afraid to run it for 10 or 15 minutes to grind away at the inside of the drain and remove all accretions.

It's hard to tell from the photos, but I don't think you have enough slope on any of your drain lines - they almost look level - and this can lead to accretions in various areas.  That might explain why you are having issues.  It may have been installed by a dummy.  That could help to figure out why the problem is manifesting itself.   It's common for tubs to exhibit clogs only when draining a filled tub as the rate of flow of water is highest then.  You also might want to put some sealant around the pipes where they exit through the brick.  Very unprofessional.

If these two steps don't work, then it's time to get a plumber.  Get three quotes and pick the guy you like best - not the cheapest guy.


Replace just the top piece that the weight is actually hanging off of. You can use 3/4" or 1" pipe for that, and then connect it to the 1/2" pipes of the sides with appropriate fittings.


How can I prevent a screw from slipping on a slippery veneer surface when I try to screw it in?

You're looking for a bradawl:

Its business end is like a straight slot screwdriver, only typically smaller and sharper.  You push it into the wood where you want the screw to go, then twist to open a small hole.  The screw tip will then fit into the hole without slipping.  Be careful not to let the tip  of the awl slip as you're pushing it into the surface, especially as you said it's slippery.

You might also get away with using a scratch awl, which has a pointed end instead, so it will make a smaller hole.  If the hole is too small, you still risk having the screw slip out of it.


What's the difference between three phase 240 V and standard household 240 V?

Input Phase Angle and number of transformers needed. For High-Delta, type of transformer.

All voltages below are expressed in RMS Average, not Peak...

I find it really hard to refer to Split-Phase as Residential or "House" Power. It is used in business where you're not running a lot of heavy motorized equipment. 240VAC Split Phase is produced off a single phase input transformer with center tapped secondary, producing for output, a single phase across the 240V outer terminals and two 120V legs with phases 180 degrees apart. Centertap is an effective ground (Neutral) at 0V potential and each leg is +120VAC and -120VAC respectively for the full voltage of 240V.

If you view the waveform on an oscilloscope, you will see a single sine wave (single phase) when measuring between Line 1 and Line 2 (below) at 240VAC RMS. Measuring between Line 1 and Neutral will show a single sine wave at 120VAC RMS, measuring between Line 2 and Neutral will show a single sine wave at 120VAC RMS equal and opposite to the L1-Neutral wave (180 degree phase shift)

Three Phase has three separate circuits with phases 120 Degrees apart. You need three separate transformers, one for each phase. The primary on each is fed with a single phase and produces an output of a single phase on 208 (Y) or 240 (Delta) VAC. Depending on whether the circuit is Wye or Delta, you can have multiple voltages. Each phase-pair carries the full voltage. On Wye with Neutral, the voltage between the phase and Neutral will be slightly less than three-fifths of (it's one-third of the square root of 3, for electronics geeks) the voltage between each phase leg. On Delta, you only have each phase available with no Neutral.

If we hook up an oscilloscope to each of the line terminals, we see the following waveform, three independent power paths, 120 degrees phase shifted which when applied to a three phase motor, provide a rotating vortex magnetic field which makes 3 phase motors self-starting without the requirement of a start capacitor, start winding or other method of kludging in a phase shifted winding to provide the rotational force to start the motor spinning.

Wye and Delta typically have one Pole Pig per phase (three transformers). On a Wye 480VAC system, the voltage between each phase and Neutral is 277VAC. Transformer secondary electrical schematics below to show how each transformer set is hooked up to derive the connection scheme. You can hook a single phase motor up on L1-L2, L2-L3 or L3-L1 for single phase current (balance necessary on loading between phases) or apply L1-L2-L3 to the proper therminals of a three phase motor.

On the US power grid, also is used the High-Leg Delta transformer circuit which allows for multiple voltages. Voltage between each Leg produces 240VAC, voltage between the Center Tap and the high leg gives 208VAC Single Phase and voltage between each low leg and the center tap is essentially a Split Phase circuit with 120V from each respective leg to Neutral (residential power tap - grin). High-Leg Delta power is only available in 120/208/240, and is not put in any longer as Wye circuits are preferred instead for their relative simplicity and improved load balancing


Will latex paint applied over oil paint bond well?

There is nothing you can apply now to make the paint stick.  The critical factor is the bond between the old paint and the new paint, and that is all underneath the new paint, so it is inaccessible.  It's as simple as that.

It is not true that you can't overpaint oil (alkyd) with latex.  You can, and it can work.  What is true is that you can't overpaint a glossy surface with any expectation of success ...and... oil paints are pretty good at being glossy.  The gloss is what ejects dirt, grease and other surface contaminants such as new paint.

I found a soup can I had used to paint with green marine LPU paint, which is very glossy.  I had later used the soup can to paint black LPU. I had left about 1/8" of black in the bottom of the can.  The black had "popped out" -- it refused to stick to the fully cured green.  Needless to say, no other paint would stick to that LPU either.

If this wasn't done, it will be hit or miss what happens next.  Expect it to fail if you bother it in the next few weeks, latex needs at least that long just to start really curing.  After that, you'll have to see.

To make new paint stick to glossy old paint, you must remove  the gloss.  Proper sanding is more than is required.  I am fond of a green Scotchlite pad, like you use to scrub pots and pans.  Then wash it to remove oil, grease and dirt.  Then a wipedown with the paint's solvent (e.g. water for latex).

New paint won't stick to new paint of a different chemical type, because it is still chemically active.  Normal (1-part) paints take a year or so to cure.  2-part coatings cure like epoxy, and so they cure much faster.


make ground 4 gauge wire from several twisted 12 gauge solid copper wires

#4 has a area of 41,742 CM (Circular Mils).

#12 has a area of 6,529 CM.

As Dave Tweed says in the comments, you need 7 (6.39) connected in parallel.

Parallel conductors are permitted by electrical codes for phase, neutral or ground for #1/0 and larger.  Each conductor must be same length, material, insulation, area and termination.  The parallel conductor rule is set up for currents > 250A.

As Peter Bennett says, an electrical inspector will probably take exception to this because #4 is readily available.


Trying to wire switch outlet combo to existing two outlet. But the outlets each have 3 wires

Let's take a look at what we have here

You have 2 cables, and each one has (presumably) hot, neutral and ground. It is normal for all grounds simply to be all tied to each other;

The old device is definitely a GFCI or AFCI, no doubt of it.

So what you're viewing as "each socket powered by a separate cable" is actually the GFCI device being what it is.  It has one hot/neutral pair (called "LINE") that inputs power from the supply, and from there, power goes through the GFCI electronics. The output of the GFCI electronics provides a zone of protection, and that goes to the other hot-neutral pair (called "LOAD") to be carried onward to other outlets.  It also protects the sockets on GFCI receptacles (not every GFCI device is a receptacle).

So each cable does not power each socket at all. The positions are sheer coincidence. Both sockets are connected together along with the LOAD wires, and all together are on the protected side of the GFCI.

Any socket-type outlet in the protected zone requires a "GFCI Protected" sticker.

And this actually caused you to waste a lot of money.

GFCI Roundup

It sounds like you have way more GFCIs than you have circuits. That will cause you problems when a GFCI trips for cause ,because all the upstream GFCIs will also trip, and they are very picky about reset sequence.

See this answer for how to untangle that.

Now that you have a pile of GFCIs, identify every circuit in your house that doesn't have any GFCIs at all, and spread the love by finding the first receptacle in the chain. However do not put GFCI protection on safety devices such as refrigerators, radon pumps, fire alarms, etc. where a nuisance trip will poison or kill people.

Grandfathering: you can't downgrade

ALL kitchen receptacles are required to be GFCI.  Even if this outlet was grandfathered, you can't downgrade: you can't remove protection you already do have. This means 2 things:

This receptacle must remain GFCI
The downline circuit must be protected by GFCI

Now as the other answer describes, the other receps could be protected merely by siting a GFCI at the next recep. However, this recep still needs protection.

Fortunately, a dual GFCI+receptacle+switch is indeed an item that is sold.  It is exactly what you have there (the new one) but with GFCI protection on the receptacle.   The wiring to the screws is the same as the old GFCI receptacle.  The switch is not on any screws; it is handled as two pigtail wires which you can do with as you please. Noting that hardwired lighting does not need GFCI protection.

That 20A-keyed socket+switch is an expensive beast, having just bought one myself. Take it back.  You may find the incremental cost to a GFCI version of that isn't much more than what you are returning.


How can I make my garbage disposal outlet work for other electric devices?

If you really want to do this you can remove the switch and splice the wires thru so the receptacle is hot all the time. You can then install one of these: Sink top air switch.


It could be that you have a single stack vent system:

  The Single Stack Vent System was introduced into the IPC in the 2012 Edition and is based
  on a drainage stack system in the City of Philadelphia (Pennsylvania) Plumbing Code which
  has been used successfully in many multi-story and high-rise buildings for over 100 years.

https://wabo.memberclicks.net/assets/pdfs/Plumbing_Venting_Brochure_2018.pdf (pages 17-19)


How can I locate the drain plumbing in my old house?

On homes that have sewer under the slab I have rented a tracer and purchased a tracker ball I flush the ball (I have attached fishing line to the ball to controll how far it goes) I then use the tracker to figure which way the pipes go. Once I get the general direction I will release some line and flush again, tracing where the ball goes until it quits moving. I have found septic tanks using this method that were more than 100' away from where it was shown on the plot plan. Several times I was able to retrieve the ball but I have also lost a few they are designed to be flushed I just hate dumping 20-30$ down the drain (pun intended). My local equipment rental place rents the receiver but you have to purchase the balls and once activated some only have several hours useful life. I have cleaned a few up and opened them and pulled the battery and was able to reuse but some are sealed so well it damages them beyond use. This is the method I have used to figure out where the plumbing goes and also find a tank that was not where the plans showed. At the age of your home this method could save a lot of time and expense as you will be able to cut a trench above the pipe to allow for replacement as it sounds like your pipe may be leaking, the only way to stop the leaks cost effectively is to replace the old cast iron pipe with plastic.


Gravity grille not opening when bathroom fan is on

The outside grille should definitely open when the fan is running. However, it isn't clear whether this is a cause or an effect of your airflow problem:

The grille may be stuck, in which case you need to lubricate/free/unbind it
There may be some other issue with the airflow, in which case nothing's pushing the grille open

First stop: check the grill manually so that you can see if they're working (they should open easily). If not, you've found the problem. If so, then you'll need to check other components (the ducting, the fan, etc).


Is it sufficient to ground to a box using the NM clamp?

No, that's a "cowboy move" - there are 10-32 threaded holes in virtually every metal box specifically for a grounding screw, and using the cable clamp as a ground connection is not compliant/listed/correct.

The ground wires should all be connected to each other and to that grounding screw. In the unlikely event that your boxes don't have a pre-threaded hole there are thread-forming grounding screws available, but generally you just need to grab a bag of short 10-32 screws (you can find green ones in the electrical aisle, but they don't have to be green.) They specifically need to be the "-32" or fine thread variant so that they have sufficient threads in the box metal - and really, if you look carefully, you will almost always find that hole in the box ready for it.


There are three subjects to consider here.

Is your water heater working correctly. It is possible your water heater needs some maintenance as there could be too much buildup on the inside or a heating element that needs replacing. https://www.hometips.com/repair-fix/hot-water-heater-problems.html

Second the water in a water heater is usually hotter than you can use it. Then you add cold water to bring the temperature down to a usable temperature. That way a 40 gallon tank at 130 degrees should be able to produce a lot more than 40 gallons of 100 degree water. You can always turn up the temperature of the water heater. Most electric tank heaters will reach 150 or more degrees.

The last possibility is upgrading.
For 400 dollars US you should be able to have a small tankless point of use water heater professionally installed for just the tub. They cost less than 200 dollars for just the unit if you know how to install one.

A full sized tankless water heater will cost you at least a thousand to install. If you get a gas tankless water heater either install in directly on an exterior wall, or get one that uses PVC venting. Metal vents that cheap systems use are wildly expensive.

And a larger tank water heater will cost whatever you want to spend on it plus a few hundred to professionally install. I'm seeing example prices between 500 and 1500 dollars US for a 50 gallon or larger tank depending on the efficiency. Gas water heaters have a much faster recovery rate than electric. It is possible that as 40 gallon gas water heater is all you need.


Is it ok to use joint compound for a thin or skim coat on new drywall?

Yes, it's fine to use a skim coat as a paint base, and it reduces the contrast between white dry compound and gray paper under the paint, as well as removing any difference in how the paint takes on compound .vs. paper.


Main Floors uneven after attic conversion

Humidity swells boards.

When this happened to us it was because of humidity.  It was mostly around the air conditioner ducts, where the cold air caused condensation.  The boards heaved right up because they swelled with water.  There was mold too.

Our problems were 1: opening windows at night in the summer. 2:  drying clothes on a line indoors. 3: running the fan all the time.

Tying your issues to the attic conversion - if you were losing humidity thru the attic and your attic renovator installed something new that prevented the loss of humidity you had before, then your house might be more humid.  The humidity is swelling and buckling the wood.  Or humidity might be unrelated to attic project.

Once we fixed the humidity most of the wood went back down.  I set heavy stuff on some to press it into place but we needed a guy to come remove and shorten some boards that were now too long to go back in place.


Why I am seeing brick dust on my basement walls?

Of course a photo would help. :)

But sans photo or any further details, my guess is you are seeing efflorescence which is essentially mineral deposits left from the migration of moisture passing through a porous wall (cement, brick, stucco, etc.)


Yep. The Band Saw would be best, since it cuts downward & will avoid any face chipping. If it's not currently cutting downward, for some bad reason, then you'll need to flip the band & therefore restore the band saw to normal & safe operation.

The warped piece might be scrap. But, you can try putting it in the oven or in your really hot attic or out in the Sun on something black. This will hopefully temporarily loosen the glue for a weighted compression or flattening. Possibly upside down with a central spacer to over-bend it backwards, so the new tension releases the old tension until dry again.


Hardwood floor refinish | correct / low cost finish?

A1: Whether you or another appearance critic (spouses are common) can stand the way it looks. You pretty much have to try a spot and see what you think.

A1a: Don't use poly if you don't want a high gloss "look". Use an oil and see what you think. Even "matte" polyurethane is pretty shiny, as things go - but also look for yourself, that's my opinion.

A2: Sure, if you don't sand that deep and remove it all.

A3: a hardening oil finish will actually get dry. A non hardening finish, won't. Much easier to get the floor somewhat clean if it's not sticky. There is some problem of marketing confusing the issue - some vendors sell a "hardening oil finish" that others (more truthful) would just call a varnish. At the most basic level you have raw linseed oil and "boiled" linseed oil (not actually boiled, for the most part) - the raw never hardens, the boiling (or other chemical treatment) makes the boiled harden. Or "salad oil" (soy or canola) .vs. walnut oil - walnut naturally hardens, salad oil never does. But salad oil can go rancid...

Most of the stuff sold as "tung oil" or "Danish oil" is better described as a wiping varnish


Which bolt pattern to sister a ceiling joist?

From the image it looks more like a 2nd collar tie or a rafter tie then a ceiling joist. A ceiling joist would have the ceiling finish material attached to the bottom of it. In the case of a collar tie just a generous 3/8" bead of construction adhesive in a zigzag pattern. Clamp it if you can and nail it vertically with three 16d nails vertically and 16" apart. Ensure that your sister extends at least 3' beyond the break.

If you are trying to repair a sag or rafter spread it is a different repair


Which of these is ground, neutral and live?

There is no ground here

From the vintage of your wiring, I can tell you that that center bundle has nothing to do with ground, that much is certain!  Instead, what you have here is an incoming mains feed which joins to an outgoing mains feed and a switch loop for the light.  As a result, the left is indeed switched-hot, the center always-hot, and the right neutral, which explains why the center wire group was not connected to the light.


Can I place a vessel sink over integral sink without cutting out existing sink. I

Depending on the sink it might be  possible. If you're talking about one of the larger vessel sinks that lay flat and would completely cover the sink opening then that may work. You'd probably need to cut the sink bowls out of the existing counter top so you can hook up the drain. The one problem you may have is if you will be able to mount the faucet behind the sink.


Dalton wall mount garage door opener doesn't work

Unplug the opener, for at least 5-hours, to kill all power to the opener and the wall mount switch. According to Dalton, this should reset everything and put you back in business...assuming you didn't crack the wall mount's board....you'll need a new wall mount if that's the case.


Two things: dig down to the abutment of the post to the concrete post slab. Pressure wash it or clean it off good. Coat it with roofers repair coating (such as EP Henry) -- in the old days they used creosote. OR, use a rubber coating like Flex Seal Liquid, Dip, or a rubber roofers product like Carlisle. Coat 6-8 inches above the terra-line where the dirt might meet the wood in the future OR up to where you are visually comfortable. It's black and not particularity pretty. Also: you can treat the wood (even if it pressure treated ground rated) with an over-the-counter wood preservative the same as commercially used in the pressure treatment process, a borate for example, such as Bora-care -- apply with a pump sprayer. This is a bug treatment essentially and a wood preservative.


How can I cut a vinyl chair mat to shorten it?

I've cut chair mats by laying them on a flat work surface. Then secure a metal straight edge along the cut line. (In my case I clamped a long piece of aluminum bar stock in place to the work surface with the mat in between).

A utility knife with a sharp blade was then used to score a cut line along the straight edge. Chair mats are a relatively soft plastic and it was not possible to use a score and break off type process. Instead I cut in the same place along the straight edge 3 or 4 times. I then removed the straight edge and clamps and positioned the cut line along the edge of the work surface. This allowed cut area to be opened slightly as the part to be removed was bent down over the edge of the work surface. Once the cut line was opened like this continued passes of the utility knife blade in the cut groove allowed the cut to be made deeper and deeper and eventually finish the cut.


Is this natural gas shut off valve behaving correctly?

When the red lever is in line with the pipe then the valve is open. When the red lever is across or at 90 degrees to the pipe it is shut. This is a very simple visual system.

I think the red lever has lost the pin or protruding part that would act as the stop for normal operation. For your safety, and others, it would be a good idea to get it replaced - if just the lever needs replacing then that is easy. But if the complete assembly needs replacing then in some places you will need a qualified gas fitter.


Turning off Air Conditioning when out of the house for extended time

I see a few problems with leaving the AC off for a while, depending on climate.

The AC provides dehumidification.  So if you live in a humid climate, leaving the AC off can cause issues in the house (swelling doors and window frames, cracking plaster, mold, etc).  You generally want the humidity in your house to be 50% or less.
Stress on your fridge.  If the room is too hot, the fridge will struggle to keep your food cool.  This may shorten the life of your fridge, or cause food spoilage.  (Not sure what the upper operating temperature limit is for a fridge.)
Any pets that you leave behind on vacation.  Even if you take your dog or cat to the kennel, what about your fish tank?  Will your fish be happy in >100F water?  Don't let the temp in your house get higher than what your pets can tolerate!


It's perfectly fine to use the 12/2 wire, but if it's connected to 14/2, the circuit breaker needs to be 15 amp, not 20 amp, (due to the wire size of the 14 ga wire) and should also be GFCI (not due to the wire size, due to the location/use being outside)


Is it safe to install a three pronged cable into a four pronged dryer?

What you are doing is done all the time, and there is no problem with it, if done properly.   The fact is these 3 prong receptacles still exists in many older homes, and there is no requirement to upgrade an entire circuit simply to plug in a device. If you go out and purchase a new electric dryer, the seller will ask if you have a 3 or 4 prong receptacle. They will then sell you the appropriate cord, based on your answer (if you don't know, they'll probably sell you both and tell you to return the one you don't need, or offer their instillation services).
RTFM
If you check the manufacturers installation instructions, there should be a procedure for connecting the dryer to a 3 prong receptacle. The procedure can very from manufacturer to manufacturer, so make sure you check the documentation for your specific dryer.
From a random whirlpool manual:

This dryer is manufactured ready to install with a 3-wire  electrical
supply connection. The neutral ground conductor  is permanently
connected to the neutral conductor (white  wire) within the dryer. If
the dryer is installed with a 4-wire  electrical supply connection,
the neutral ground conductor  must be removed from the external ground
connector (green  screw), and secured under the neutral terminal
(center or  white wire) of the terminal block. When the neutral ground
conductor is secured under the neutral terminal (center or  white
wire) of the terminal block, the dryer cabinet is isolated from the
neutral conductor.

Click for larger view

Click for larger view


You've probably heard the advice that you should sand with the wood grain, and you want to know how to apply that when the grain is going all over the place...  Well, the best bet is to just get a random orbital sander and just sand like a solid piece, ignoring the grain.

If you don't have a random orbital or are sanding by hand, that is fine, but you can't realistically "follow the grain" on a parquet top.  If you are trying to remove a heavy finish, start with a coarse paper (80 or 100) and once the finish or bad spots are gone or mostly gone, move to a finer paper (150 or so).  Depending on the finish and the type of wood the top is made of, you can move to a 220 grit paper for a final pass, but unless you are going for a super-high-quality finish, that is usually not necessary.  If there are noticeable swirls after the 150, then a pass with 220 is warranted, but in my experience that is rare.


Should I proactively replace old GFCI outlets?

I think this depends on the quality of your old outlets.  A lot of times builders might use the lowest quality for outlets and I have gone through houses that were 10-15 years old and just spent a day replacing them all.

However with GFCIs it is not very common for these to be cheaply made.  They would have to probably be quite a bit older than 10 years old to be junk GFCIs.  So I would keep them unless another GFCI in the same room fails.  I like my outlets to generally match if they are right next to each other but that is just aesthetic preference.

Really though if you are talking about electricity in general (save for very old knob and tub or aluminum) if you touch it there is much more chance of you causing an issue than you preventing one.


Wow! That is unfortunate.

The material is particle board and has been badly damaged. Since the cabinet is against the wall repairing it would be very difficult without removing the cabinet first.

I would try to move the hinge. Preferably, to the top of the door if you have enough space for the hinge. If not move it below the damaged area. You may have to drill very small, maybe 1/16", shallow pilot holes for the screws to get them started but you could try driving the screws without this first.

Have the 13 year old help you so he/she can learn to fix their mistakes and how much work it takes.

Good,luck!


What could cause my washing machine to stop before the rinse cycle, it drains fine?

Most washers do not require the latch closed for most washing cycles. The one thing that does need for it to work is the spin cycle. So it sounds like the latch register the door closed is not working. I would try put the washer to the spin cycle and push in the tab or what not indicating the door/latch would be closed.

edit: I am a bit confused. It will spin if you move the timer to spin cycle? If so then it sounds like its the timer.


No, the home improvement answer was already provided - tamper would do a dandy job. You're looking for something that ain't home improvement, at all.


See how the power comes in via Cables?  Each cable has 1 black wire, 1 white wire and probably a ground wire?

One of those cables is supply.  The other one is onward power to your light or whatever.

I see no reason a light needs to be under GFCI protection.  The LOAD terminals are not for using, unless you know exactly what you are doing and intend to GFCI-protect the onward loads.  Protecting hardwired lights is silly, that's ground's job.

Place both blacks on GFCI "LINE" brass screw.

Place both whites on GFCI "LINE" silver screw.

Most GFCIs allow 2 wires in back-wires directly under the screw; if not, then pigtail the 2 black wires and 2 white wires.  Crank the screws down quite hard.

Now, check other receptacle sockets that lost power during this situation.  If they are in a place where GFCI is required, do a GFCI test on those. If it trips a GFCI (maybe this one), mark the socket "GFCI Protected". They make stickers for that purpose. Otherwise make sure to fit another GFCI there, or revisit the "know what you're doing/intend to protect onward loads" thing.


I couldn't find the exact product pictured, but http://www.zhihonghk.com/cp/html/?73.html sells something that looks like it matches the functionality of sticking to itself on both sides and it looks sturdier.

I've never used the product above, but I have used Velcro ONE-WRAP thin ties and they work well as a cable tie and even for holding parts of a display stand together where it requires a bit of strength.  I think the green lattice product the original question asks about may have too many holes in it to be very strong and its plastic may become brittle over time, especially if exposed to UV.  On the other hand, it sort of looks like silicone which can last quite a long time.  So it really depends what it's made of.


Use drywall corner bead for corners (embedded metal with tape, without tape, and nylon as well) because you might hit them and this protects the drywall corners. Use seam tape for the ceiling to wall. It will have a split down the middle where you can fold it in half. Cut your strip (I always go slightly longer then trim when the first layer is dry) fold in half, mud, press and smooth. Just like the seams between the drywall panels on the wall or ceiling.


Can you snake a long extension cord through the PVC pipe, run some current through it, and then use a high voltage cable finder to locate the cable in the wall?

Vacuum pipes usually don't have a whole lot of bends in them, so the snaking should be quite simple.


How do I remove this dimmer light switch cover so I can paint the wall?

There are screws behind the front cover plate that hold the back cover plate to the junction box.  The front plate snaps into place.

You can see from the diagram that there should be a small indentation and a tab inside of this.  If you push the tab in gently with a flat head screwdriver, then you can just pull the front plate off exposing the screws for the back plate.


Will adding a half-bath impact the water pressure in the existing bathrooms?

The pressure will be the same as you have now, if you notice a change when somebody flushes or used a sink that same effect will be there. Stay with the 1/2” pipe and you should be fine, most fixtures have flow restrictions built into them so a 1/2” line will be sufficient. Depending on where you tap the lines, the pressure drop could be more noticeable. For example if tapped close to the water heater then run to the new 1/2 bath would have the least effect compared to tapping the line for the existing bath 50’ away because of the total volume and length of pipe, but the effect of using 2 faucets at the same time depends on the flow. A bathtub usually has the highest flow where toilets, showers and sinks have relatively low flow rates.


Can I cut the wood between struts in my attic?

I am just going to confirm what has already been stated in the comments but add a little more to it. Yes the slats are to help keep spacing and are not structural.....anymore.

During the construction of the roof system these are also used to keep the trusses from falling over with the help of a number of diagonal braces before the plywood roof sheathing is put down. I have in the past, seen in the install guide for roof trusses how to place these braces during assembly, including the diagonals. There has never been a reference about removing them later, but I see no reason to leave them.

As a mention, instead of cutting them out, bring a hammer with you or pry bar and remove the whole thing. Cutting them out brings to mind rough ends, possibly splinters a plenty, and if you are a big guy as I am, while moving between the trusses, the less things to rub against or snag onto the better.


I think you position the box sufficiently proud of the cement blocks so that the box will be flush with the intended finished wall. Err slightly on the side of having the box inset in the finished wall and if necessary use a box extender(metal) or plastic. If you use an extender, you will have to use a ground pigtail to get a robust ground connection.


Half switched outlet, has both whites connected

Here's  the thing about the tab.

Each side of the receptacle has two possible modes.

If you remove the tab, you isolate that side (hot or neutral) of the upper and lower socket. Now you have separate control of the two sockets, but, you must connect a separate wire to each half.
If you keep the tab, both upper and lower sockets are connected.  There are still two screws, but they are connected. You can supply both sockets from 1 wire on that side.   Or, you can use the two screws as a splice block: Attach two wires, those two wires are connected to each other and also to both sockets on that side.  It is a very handy way to continue power onward to the next socket.

You can only use one mode, and when you snap the tab off, you're committed!  And with tab broken off, each screw can take only one wire (except for some Leviton and other brands whose $3 commercial tier sockets allow 2 wires under every screw.). Never put one wire on a screw and another on the backstab.

The splicing method isn't required, you can accomplish the same thing by adding a short pigtail to one receptacle screw and joining it to the other two wires with a wire nut.  In fact, in some conditions, the splicing method is forbidden and you have to use a pigtail.  For instance, the "must pigtail" rule applies to all grounds.

I myself use the pigtail method almost 100%, because I am usually working on ladder/knees/cramped location in a stress position, and wire nutting 3 groups of wires together is much faster than putting 5 wires onto screws.


How do I rectify this? This is my first project.

That's an easy, inexpensive and useful first project.

Even if the work is square and accurately cut, it's easy to be off by a couple millimeters. And even if you're not, it's easy for the floor to be off a couple millimeters; tile is not perfect.

Your best bet is to do a web search for furniture leveling screws.  You screw them into the feet, and by adjusting the depth of each one individually you can dial it right in to not just remove the wobble, but also get the work surface exactly level in both directions. They'll be fifty cents or a dollar each, or thereabouts.


Can I use a circular saw for precise cabinet making

If you're making many similar cuts, it's often worth it to build a jig. Jigs will allow you to make many repeatable cuts, quickly and easily.

There are also loads of guides, slides, and jigs available off the shelf (or online anyway).

Also, don't forget to use the proper blade.  You probably wouldn't want to make furniture with a 24 tooth blade, unless you don't care much about the cut quality. If you're cutting plywood or veneers, you'll want to use at least an 60 tooth blade.


Based on your description, the likely configuration is:

incoming power -> switch -> light 1 -> light 2 -> light 3

That would put two sets of wires on light 1 (switch & light 2) and light 2 (light 1 & light 3) but only one on light 3. If that's the case, then all blacks (switched hot), all whites (neutral) together at each of the lights would be correct, and any one light not installed (or bulb burnt out or whatever) would have no effect on the other lights. So that leaves the switch.

Based on the pictures:

Your wires are coming in via cables rather than conduit.
There is a Big Bundle o' Neutrals and a Big Bundle o' Grounds. Those are perfectly fine, and since you are using (for now anyway) ordinary "dumb" switches, leave those "as is".

Assuming all wires (except ground) are black and white, the way to wire it is:

Unless you are already 100% sure, determine which of the incoming cables is incoming power vs. switched to light:

Turn off the breaker
Disconnect all wires to the switch and make sure all ends are separated
Turn the breaker on
Use a non-contact tester to determine which of the black wires is hot.

Do not continue unless you have identified exactly one hot wire.

You now know which black is hot. The matching white is neutral (should already be in the Big Bundle o' Neutrals). The other black is switched hot. The other white is also neutral (should already be in the Big Bundle o' Neutrals).

Turn the breaker off again and then:

Connect the hot wire to one screw on the switch (if it is a simple switch then it doesn't matter which screw, if it is a smart switch then this is "hot" or "line")
Connect the switched hot wire to the other screw on the switch (if it is a simple switch then there will only be 2 screws, if it is a smart switch then this is "switched hot" or "load")
If this is a simple switch, connect the two white wires (neutral) together with a wire nut. Unless you took apart the Big Bundle o' Neutrals (which would be a bad thing to do), this is already done.
If this is a smart switch then use a pigtail (there may be one already as part of the switch, if not then make one) to connect the two white neutrals together with a pigtail from the neutral connection on the switch.
Turn on the breaker and test.

If things still don't work right, you need to (carefully) check the power. Use the non-contact tester to see if power flows to the switched hot when you flip the switch. If it does not, then you have a switch problem. If it does, then check for power at Light 1. You may need to (with the breaker off) take apart the groups of black & white wires at Light 1 (and 2 and 3, but do one at a time) to figure out where each cable goes.


The right-handed (RH) thread vs the left-handed (LH) thread in screws

Differences:

Righty Tighty, Lefty loosey doesn't work with left-handed screws.
Right-handed screws move away from you if you rotate them in a clockwise direction, whereas left-handed screws move towards you.

When to Use Left-Handed Screws
When fretting induced precession would cause the right-handed nut/screw to loosen, a left handed nut/screw should be used.


How to determine depth of foundation on existing detached garage

You only need check one location. As I remember a 32" frost line, so a 3 ft hole with a shovel does not sound like much of a job. I hand dug a pond 3' deep X 11' long X 6' wide , not that big a deal. Worth getting a fiberglas handle shovel if you don't have one. For a small hole like that a "clam shell" post hole digger may be helpful.


How should I connect ground wires for new ceiling fan?

If I understand correctly, based on your recent update, you have access to all of the ground wires.  As you said, they were not attached to anything and you were able to pull them back into the box.
You should pigtail the fan into the current grounding path.  This can be accomplished by taking a short piece of bare copper (of same gauge as current ground wires) and tie it together with the other grounds using a wire nut.
Should your fan be grounded?  Yes, ground it.  There is a bigger problem here though.  If the grounding wires in your current cables are not connected, then you do not have ground downstream.
As EdBeal pointed out in the comments, this box is not rated for a ceiling fan and cannot provide the support that a fan requires.  It should be replaced as well.


What are some good web resources for designing/building bunk bed?

Try looking at the image search first, then drill down to the site if you like the design.

Here's a plain jane variety from HowToSpecialist.com


How can I remove the ends of this tap spout?

Wow, I haven't seen separate hot & cold taps in a long time. I'd say it's time for an upgrade. It looks like you've been after that pictured one pretty good. I'd spray them inside & out with vinegar a half dozen times throughout an entire day & then run the hot water one for a minute.

The hot water would heat it up & hopefully loosen everything, including any mineral deposits that the vinegar broke-up. Then, give it another jerking twist, rather than a slow torqueing twist. If that all works on the hot side, then you'd pour hot water over the vinegar-ed cold tap until that's heated.

I can't make out if the black plastic piece is hollow or not. But, if it is I think your only other option is to use an Internal Pipe wrenching bit of the right diameter, like this.


Sealing a Garage door during hurricane flooding

I don't know that there's a practical way to do this (at least, not in a way that doesn't impede future use of the door). If you don't care about the door (or at least would consider some door repair as an acceptable result), I would suggest the following

Buy some really good outdoor caulk (mineral spirit cleanup) and caulk the sides, bottom and first panel breaks from the bottom. Be liberal and make sure you cover all the joints in their entirety (this will take a fair amount of caulk)
Sandbag in front of the door 18"

The major caveat here is that 12-15" of standing water (let alone wind driven water) is going to be hard to keep out entirely, especially with something not designed to be waterproof. Expanding foam isn't really a good choice here because, while it is waterproof, it's also porous, and only deigned to prevent incidental water exposure, not standing water. With sandbags and caulk you might stand a chance, but it's far from certain.

As to cleanup, you'll have to cut the caulk and scrape the door clean, which will almost certainly damage the paint/finish of the door and maybe the outside frame. Be prepared to repaint the entire door after doing this.


What type of equipment do I need to complete this audio setup?

There are a million options out there.  The main thing that you need in this setup is finding a receiver that has really good output control - in that you can pick exactly which outputs you want the sound to go to and be able to save those settings... So if you want to go to all rooms you would have an all-room criteria saved, and so on.  You need the receiver and the monitor/module that controls it - usually sold together.  Everything else is all about tastes and how much money you have to spend, and how many controllers you want - you could station wireless controllers around your house.

Don't want to get too off-topic for DIY... You need to be looking at multi-room or multi-zone receivers.  Here is an example.  I am not telling you this is the exact fit for you.  You have a lot of researching and figuring out your requirements.  There are receivers that have monitors that you could station in every room and every room could hear its own thing... lots of $$$.  I would say you need at least 2 zones - living room and bedrooms... Also can you control the sound level in the bedrooms do they just have the speakers wired to the living room?  If you want different sound levels each room will be its own zone.

Also 5.1 isn't a must.  There are tons of surround options from 3 to 9+ speakers.  5.1 was the standard a while back and is fine.  Any multi-room/zone receiver will give you surround abilities (most high end ones do 7.1 or 7.2) in your main living space.


can I link a portable washer to 'conventional' laundry hook up?

Check with the manufacturer, but if you're willing to wash in cold water you should be able to use the "real" laundry hookup.

Looking for used machines is definitely worth considering, though.


How can I correct wiring of a half switched receptacle?

You need to join any red wires from the boxes you modified such that the removed red ties into the "other" removed red (or whatever color was used) so that the circuit is carried to the next location.

So if a red wired screw (or so be it, backstab) had another wire on it, or with it, they need to be capped together in the back of the box.


Pressure treated lumber can get warped if left out in the sun. But my experience is that if the lumber is used in an application where it is bolted onto place and secured with proper fasteners that it will work just fine. There is no doubt that certain suppliers of PT lumber are applying the treatment to the lesser grades of the wood.


Multiple weak light bulbs vs one strong light bulb

You have a number of issues affecting the poor lighting in the mirror. When light hits you when facing the mirror it's reflected light coming off the ceilings, walls and other items in the room.

The intensity of light falls off exponentially following the inverse square rule. When you double the distance the intensity of light is 1/4th. Triple the distance it's 1/9th as strong.

The closer you are to the light source the more intense the light will be. Reflected light not only loses intensity because your walls aren't mirrors but because it also has a greater distance until it reaches you.

More lights provide more even illumination and you can theoretically get away with much lower total lumens than if you used a single bulb.

Edit: Here are some more details to illustrate the point. Assume you have a 10'x10' room currently illuminated with 1 light source in the center of the room. You want to replace that single fixture with 4 lights instead. Each at 1/4 the power of the first light.

We start with 1 light with a power of 1 unit that is 60" away from the mirror and delivers a light intensity of 1 at the mirror.

We replace it with 4 lights that are each 1/4 the power of the first unit. Two lights are about 42.426407" away from the mirror and two lights are 94.875" away.

The intensity of the closer lights are:
(60/42.426407)^2 * 0.25 (for reduced wattage) = ~0.5
Half of the original intensity

The intensity of the 2 lights furthest away is
(60/94.875)^2 * 0.25 = ~0.1 of the original intensity.

Add up the 4 lights:
0.5 + 0.5 + 0.01 + 0.01 = 1.2

So you're getting roughtly 20% more direct light than you were with the one bulb. With the given placement you're also not blocking the light by standing between the light and the mirror.


Replacing pendant light but reusing existing chock (UK)

You cannot use choc block (connector strip) inside the ceiling void or externally not covered by a ceiling rose.

If you want to remove the existing rose entirely I would suggest one of these

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCT101C.html

which will take the three existing cables on the 'socket' part, provides a loop terminal for the live (the 3 brown wires) and the 'plug' part will connect to your new pendant (live, neutral and earth if needed). It has cable clamps on all the cables and can safely be poked back inside the ceiling void.

Alternative is to remove the ceiling rose, hook and connector strip off the ikea pendant and wire it into the existing ceiling rose, threading the flex through the white rose cover before connecting, then screwing on the rose cover.

For anyone not familiar with UK loop-in wiring, the top 3 blue wires are neutral, the middle 3 brown wires are live, and the bottom pair is (blue sleeved brown) switched live and (brown) live to the pendant.


Building a free-standing wall on top of a retaining wall

I do not think you could rest a second unsupported wall on top of a retaining wall without long reinforcement members penetrating both the retaining wall and the wall on top. Otherwise the upper wall could topple.

Perhaps the top wall should be a fence with posts embedded 18" in the earth on the sidewalk side of the retaining wall. Alternatively there could be a retaining wall extending above grade and then above grade a 2nd dry stacked masonry wall on the sidewalk side to both support the first wall and to have the decorative side of the blocks exposed to the sidewalk.

We have a 4 course Keystone retaining wall on the downhill side of our lot (32" high, with 4" buried in the soil so the top of the wall is 28" above grade). There is a 6 ft high wood fence on top of the retaining wall. The fence posts at 8' spacing are tubular steel 2-3/8" diameter and go down into the hollows of the retaining wall and are concreted in. This has held for 30 years with no movement. These Keystone blocks are dry stacked but each block is pinned to two blocks below with very strong fiberglass/epoxy pegs.

The fact that the wall and fill would be above the water line argues against implementing this project. Is that metal cap the water meter? This would be a major project. Consider being satisfied with just filling with soil around the edge of the sidewalk.


How do you properly connect 3 x solid 2.5mm wires to a 4mm stranded wire?

Is this for AC wiring (more permanent house wiring, that needs to meet code, or for something else?

If I were you, I would look into wire nuts, they may be able to get it done the cheapest/most effective.

Also check out the splices used in this question about grounding Grounding wires


Properly Updating Drains for Basement Bathroom Update

I am gathering that you are going to frame behind the toilet/sink.   If not, this is a no-brainer.   You want to use 2x6 so it is easy to move any plumbing through this (vents).

Also if I were you - no way in the world would I lose a toilet.   You bought the house with a full bath in the basement and if you take out the toilet it probably doesn't meet the real estate definition of a half bath.

Rules -

You need venting.   There are different ways you can do this but I think with new framing you can probably get to your main stack pretty easily.   If you have specifics I can walk you through options.
If you break the ground you are supposed to get permits in most areas.   Would I?  Depends were I am at.   This could also be an issue with removing toilet - your city could notice that your house lost a bathroom or at least 1/2.
You have already broken part of the ground - get all the metal out of there to your main stack and tie it in with PVC.

What would I do?   I have done a lot of basement/laundry combos.

Frame that back wall in 2x6.
Install a deep basin sink with a huge counter right next to toilet.
Put washer and dryer under counter to right of the sink.
I would install shower where the head is against wall (so your counter wall to the right is the first 20" of the shower.
I would tie in the shower and sink to toilet after its trap and send everything down this way.   This serves your needs plus the water from shower/sink/laundry flush out any toilet debris.
I would either put a knee wall on left side of sink to hide toilet or a full wall and door for toilet if you want to hide it.

If you can give me the dimensions you are working with I can help layout what you want to do.


Best and thinnest way to cover masonry brick wall with drywall

According to this link, you can fasten drywall directly to block.

Personally I would use 3/4" furring strip and fasten with tapcons - or build a wall so I have wood to screw into. Since losing space is a concern here, adhesive and drywall screws or drywall nails should be enough to fasten the drywall.


Can I tie in bathroom vents with turbine roof vents?

If you did this then the roof vent would no longer be venting the attic space and would only vent the bathroom. This would likely lead to higher temperatures in your attic which could result in a lower level of comfort in your home and reduce the lifespan of your roof.


Laundry dryer's thermal fuse keeps blowing off every few months. What could be the cause?

Replace the thermostat also, it should be right there next to the fuse.  Its probably reading a little low, or intermittently failing, so the dryer is getting slightly hotter than is supported and the thermal fuse blows.  Also, while you have the cover open, you can be sure to vacuum the vent and everything making sure there are not restrictions like others have mentioned.  For me, the thermostat solved it after I went through about 5 thermal fuses.


Anyone recognize this faucet? How to remove these faucet handles?

If there are no obvious means of disconnecting, it ALMOST has to be a "pop off" design.   What other options are there???    I'd take a putty knife and gently pry on it from different sides and see if it "wants" to break free.


How do I wire up a saeco magic deluxe coffee grinder to be a standalone coffee grinder?

I can see two motors. They have a 2A fuses on them and most likley are just normal brush motors 10vdc~15vdc
I know this because there are only 2 wires to both of them. Stepper motors use 4 or more wires and need special circuits to make the motor spin. There are some that use 3 wires that might also require a special circuit.

Unfortunately there is no indication what the transformer supplies to the PCB and also there can be voltage regulators there where the big heat sinks are. So the motors could also be 24vdc motors.

You need to use a multimeter with DC and measure the two wire points on the motor when its running. That will tell you how many volts it is.

Then all you need to do is supply those motor with the DC voltage you measured, times that by 2 (2Ampers) and make sure your power supply can handle the load.

For example-

24vdc * 2a == 48watts maximum power
12vdc * 2a == 24watts maximum power

I really doubt the motors are AC driven.


Tyson sounds right on the money to me.  However keep in mind that these on-demand water heaters require regular service.  They must be acid washed regularly depending on how hard your water is to keep the calcium build-up at bay.  As the calcium starts to build-up on the inside of the heat exchanger tubing, it insulates the water from the wall of the tubing.  As this happens the sensors will have a more and more difficult time sensing actual water temperature.


What should I consider when boarding up windows for a storm?

First measure across the window, door, vent from the inside of the exterior trim to the outside of the exterior trim on the other side. Do this vertically and horizontally. Then add 6-8 inches to BOTH measurements, this is the size of plywood you need. You add length and width because you don't want the plywood pushing on the glass.

The thickness of the plywood is a personal choice, I would use 3/8 or 1/2 inch, but remember 1/2 is more expensive and weights more. I have never had problems with 3/8.

When you attach it to your wall, you can do things quickly or carefully. This depends upon what the exterior of your house is, how much time you have, and how often you see yourself doing this in the future. You could just screw the plywood to the wall with a long screw every 12-14 inches. OR you drill holes into the boards, hold it to the wall, mark the hole locations, then drill into your house and use a tap and die to make a more permanent screw hole.

The former option is preferred if you don't see yourself protecting your home that often. But if you live in tornado alley, I would definitely upgrade to 1/2 inch and use a tap and die for strength and convenience.


Switch the cord, not the socket

You have a proper NEMA 14-30 dryer receptacle with a ground wire, which is good.  However, your "new" (old) dryer has a 3 prong (NEMA 10-30) cord.  This can be rectified -- get a 4 prong (NEMA 14-30) dryer cord and install it on the dryer in place of the existing cord, making sure to remove the neutral-ground bonding jumper in the dryer.


Do old fluorescent light bulbs use less electricity?

All lamp manufactures have the lamp curves, as the lamps are started it damages them a little and when running they are degraded but slowly. The industry standard is the lamp is at end of life when the light output is below 50%.  Lamp life curve
The ballast controls the wattage consumed this stays the same for the life of the lamp until the contacts are eroded and cannot strike. another lamp life example


How can I secure an outwardly opening front door without damaging anything?

For outward opening doors that need security against having the hinge pin removed, you can get hinges with a security stud in the hinge.

Sample image from Home Depot, no product or vendor affiliation

The small stud protruding between the middle screw holes prevents the door from being removed from the hinge while the door is closed.

You can create a similar result with a DIY solution by placing a long screw or lag bolt in the door frame that is left protruding almost 1/2" near each hinge. And on the door, drill a small hole to receive the screw head. It wouldn't hurt to cover that hole with a deadbolt strike plate to make it more difficult to force the door off and give it a more finished look.

These options are both on the hinge side of the door and have no need to install/remove as you use them. Most property owners wouldn't have a problem having something like this installed since you're securing their home.


Nope, the grounding rod is not a substitute for a ground wire back to the main service.  It simply will not do what you desperately need it to do.

In fact, any electrical fault when the grounding system should be helping you, instead the entire grounding system gets lit up at mains voltage!  Now every light switch cover screw, every bit of conduit, the service panel itself is electrified.

The two grounds have different jobs.  Remember, current travels in loops, and it wants to return to source.

The grounding rod returns natural electricity (lightning, ESD) to its source, which is the earth.
The ground wire returns human-made electricity back to its source, which is the neutral lug on the transformer on the pole.  It's supposed to do that via the neutral wire, but the ground wire is there on the hopes that some faults can return via the safety ground to the main panel's bonding wire, instead of via a poor human and some convoluted path back to source.

They are not interchangeable because dirt is a poor conductor of electricity.

Now the best way to safe this thing is to put a GFCI breaker on the breaker in the main panel.  GFCIs do a pretty good job of rendering human electricity safe.

Once the GFCI is on board, having an isolated ground via your ground rod scheme would actually help the GFCI work.   A ground fault in any of your equipment will still light up your grounding system with lethal voltage, but the GFCI should intervene before enough current flows to actually hurt you.

Of course this isolated ground would do a fine job of returning natural electricity to source.


Does my home's gas pressure need to be checked?

I would say that your gas pressure / supply in general needs to be checked (that part might even be free from the gas company - call and report your symptoms)
and
that your boiler (despite not actually boiling if doing hot water rather than steam, that's what "a furnace for heating water" is normally called) and hydronic (hot water) heating controls need to be checked and corrected (even if the gas pressure is fine - or even if the gas pressure is low and gets corrected.) That part will almost certainly involve paying for a service call from a qualified heating system person.
Do them in that order, since servicing the boiler will go more smoothly if the gas pressure is correct.


Add support to existing acrylic shower unit

The problem with expanding foam products is that you cannot effectively "control" the expansion, so it may expand in the gap to the point of damaging your acrylic from the other direction! The type that would be less likely to do that will also not really provide meaningful support; it will just compress with the flexing of the acrylic and you are back to square one.

I think a warranty claim against the installer is your best option. He did it wrong, he should make it right. He will not like it though because it will likely be impossible to remove the shower units without damaging them, they usually adhere them to the walls with construction adhesive.


I have used Citristrip often to remove paint from windows after the painters have left. It works on stained glass. You brush it on thin and only have to wait for 10 minutes or so and then wipe it off. Avoid getting it on the trim because it'll remove that paint too. As with all cleaners, try it in a small spot to see how it works.


And this is why you don't put vapor barriers on both sides of a wall

Your problem is that you have a vapor barrier on the inside (the plastic right under the drywall) and a vapor barrier on the outside (assuming the "blueboard" is a foamboard product, that is -- if not, the housewrap may also be acting as a vapor barrier in this assembly).  As a result, whatever water gets into the wall has utterly nowhere to go, and you get a termite party in your walls because they have all the things they need to live.  (Apparently the termites beat the mold to the punch in your case.)

Remove all that interior plastic so that the stuff inside the blueboard/housewrap can dry to the inside.  Also, be glad you're fixing this now, and not in the middle of cooling season after the air conditioner aggravated your water woes.  See BSI-073 for more details about why vapor barriers are like badgers.


How to fill gap between brick and drywall?

If you want to fill a large gap with caulk, the first thing you do is fill the gap with a caulk "backer rod" that's made of foam. They come in various diameters are are typically found near the weather stripping in a home improvement store. You shove the backer in with a putty knife (not too deep, just enough to be below the surface), and then cover with caulk.


What do I do about a VERY MOLDY dishwasher air gap?

You can simply take it apart and clean it with bleach water.  Most are usually designed for regular maintenance, bits of garbage can get pumped through there and may build up.

If this is a rental, I would ask my maintenance personnel to handle the issue, you might put yourself at liability if you reassemble it wrong and cause water damage.

Furthermore, I cannot say it would be causing you health issues.  But if you have a healthy immune system, it is highly unlikely the small amount of mold in the kitchen is dangerous.  Unless you are breathing regularly over the air-gap.


If condensation can be ruled out, and it only leaks when it rains, is it oil or gas fired? If yes, then it most likely has a chimney, and probably a metal one. Depending on your roofing material you should have someone look at the flashing around the chimney.


Understanding fireplace junction box outlets

That's just a junction box cover with receptacles that are labeled for fireplace units. Indeed they are "simple 120V outlets that are always on" as can be seen in this picture of the backside of the box:


Do all dimmers reduce max brightness of LED lamps?

Yes, some dimmers have a bypass at the top.  And the bottom.

The game is really about wave-shaping, and nothing prevents a dimmer from giving 100% top voltage via a switch, or 99% top voltage via silicon.  However in practice, the wave-shaping is done to make the dimmer as cheap as possible while not hopelessly incompatible with LED.   Peak performance is not a priority.

Speaking of "cheap", CostCo and Feit Electric are not "spending good money"... unless we're talking "throwing good money after bad".  Big-box is a sea of junk, it's basically the Alibaba crud but with the safety hazards fixed. You have to buy much more carefully if you want performance.

On the other hand, pro grade equipment is more accessible than ever.


Do polyphosphates reduce scale in refrigerator ice makers?

As an alternative option, you can use Potassium Chloride instead of salt in your softener.

(On a side note, by my math two liters should only have under half a gram of sodium at that hardness)


How to remove bird droppings from woven patio furniture?

I think I would stay away from soaps that suds up a lot since it will make rinsing more difficult.  A general around-the-house cleaner should do the trick just fine - you can even use a mixture of vinegar and water.

The sooner you clean it off the better as bird droppings tend to eat away at materials over time (they will even etch car paint!)


I'm a little confused by the dimmer switch based on your post, so hopefully you'll correct that and I'll finish this answer.

However, to start you off on a new front that you might not have considered: go ahead and draw in 3-wire cabling between every item. You already know the layout that they have to be in and the maximum wires. Although it's for bonus credit, it can be used to your advantage.

There should be 2-wire going into the first light as your homerun, that's easy. Then leaving that first light to the switch will be 3 wires, hot wire nutted with the line, one tied to the light common, and then the neutral. Then you know that one wire from each of the other 3-wire cables has to be used to carry the neutral as well.

Without knowing the switching that is desired, I can't come up with a working solution based on my guess just yet. But this might help you find the answer yourself for now.


The cross bracing there is just to keep the joists from twisting and isn't required. You can cut it out.
Take extreme caution in doing so!

Vibrations from any kind of saw will jiggle lots of dust down on you and could crack the plaster on the ceiling.
MORE IMPORTANTLY: You have a wire right there and it would be very easy to accidentally cut into it.

Make sure that this wire is dead (breaker is turned off, test to be sure with a non-contact voltage checker) before working near it.
Odds are really good that in addition to the old-work ceiling fan brace you've got there (good job on picking that up!) you'll also need an extension of some sort in order for the ceiling fan bracket to actually reach the mount points on the box. Because of the height of the legs on your old-work support and the extra depth of plaster & lath, the box that comes with the support just won't be tall enough to be flush with the ceiling or slightly below. I'm not certain of the best, code approved, way of doing this in a retro-fit, so you may want to ask a new question about that.


How can I level this concrete floor so I can install laminate?

I like taking small crowns out of concrete floors with diamond cup wheel attached to an angle grinder... Need a shop vac and a masked helper.  You may be able to rent both.


your question could require a small book to answer. Depending on how bad the damage is, how badly the base wood is discolored would make a difference in what methods you may need to use to bring your table back to its former charm. Of course the total rehab would involve sanding the entire piece to bare wood and start from scratch. (see some of my previous answers on wood refinishing) If you simply want to do a varnish make over, you could use denatured alcohol to liquefy the existing varnish and remove/redistribute it. This can be fairly successful. Homer Formby made a mint selling kits that did just that. I have to say however, varnish is very old school and is rarely used today. It has tenancies to yellow, water spot easily and change color if a hot item is placed on it. Most high end furniture has a lacquer or urethane finish today. Lacquer is very hard to apply without good spray equipment is not an easy DIY project without some experience with that product. Urethane is easy to work with, comes in many finishes, satin to high gloss and can have color included. A fantastic durable finish can be created with several skillfully applied coats of urethane. Of course, if you chose to use urethane, all the old varnish must be removed and you would want to repair the wood base, restain or spot stain before refinishing with urethane or lacquer. The pour and forget kits you referred to are very gimmicky and rarely give good results. There is no substitute for good craftsmanship, and if something sounds too good to be true, it normally is. The only pour and leave product I have ever used with success is casting resin. This is actually a fiber glass epoxy resin that I have used on some commercial bars.


Why not use a surface-mounted cabinet twist latch:
image courtesy of houseofantiquehardware.com
Or, if your pup likes to open latches by biting, use a recessed slam latch:
image courtesy of actronmfginc.com
also called paddle-handle push-to-close latch, to protect her or his teeth?
Of course, if the bin is large enough to trap a person, you do need an inside handle!


Can both line and load go to same screw on a GFCI outlet?

You may be using the terms incorrectly.  "Line" and "Load" have special meaning with GFCIs, so I recommend not using the terms anywhere else. (well, smart switches it's OK).

When you're dealing with ordinary receptacles, I recommend using

Supply - the cable that is powered
Onward - the cable that takes power onward to feed other loads

And do the same with GFCIs - don't call onward "load" or it gets too confusing.

On a GFCI, "LOAD" actually means the GFCI will protect onward outlets if they are attached here.  That's a money-saver if you really want to do that, otherwise it just creates a big mess. You get nuisance trips from things that don't need to be on GFCI (lights) or that shouldn't be on GFCI (refrigerators) or people can't find the reset because it never occurs to them it's GFCI.

So if you really want to GFCI-protect onward wiring, attach it to LOAD.  Otherwise, leave the warning tape on there and attach the onward wiring to LINE. Please.

Most GFCIs these days support 2 wires on each LINE screw, using screw-to-clamp methods.  Screw down quite hard, actually use your torque screwdriver to spec.  Or pigtail.  Avoid "Back stabs" for reasons often discussed here.


Unlocking original casement window for house built in 1938

It might need lubrication, depending hw long it's sat locked.
If your belief is correct then you'd insert the key and rotate the handle from left to right (anti-clockwise.) That certainly seems plausible given how small the whole thing is - the lock cylinder also being the whole rotating mechanism, rather than having two separate interacting rotating parts.


Are you looking for a desk grommet?

I would recommend getting the trim piece prior to making the hole, as your size options will not be unlimited.


What's the practical difference between "latex" and "acrylic" water dispersion paint?

There actually is no difference between latex and acrylic paints because there is no latex in latex paints. Let me explain. All water based paints today are referred to as "latex", even though there is absolutely no latex rubber in the formula. Latex has become a generic label. The stain, water resistance and covering capabilities are achieved by using acrylic resins or vinyl . Better quality paints have more acrylic resins than vinyl.  Paints with a higher percentage of acrylic resin cost more. Vinyl is much cheaper than acrylic and is often used to mix with the acrylic to keep the cost of the paint lower. If you have special needs that may require a superior or better adapted product, the best advise is to go to a professional paint store and discuss your situation with someone that can explain the chemistry and applications of better products.


Where do you get scrap wire for making pigtail connections e.g. when wiring a switch?

You generally want solid core wire to match what you're working with in your home. I keep rolls of #14 and #12 cable on hand and cut off those as needed. You may be able to purchase pre-cut pigtails, but they're probably quite expensive as compared to regular cable.
Also note that 250 ft. rolls are far more cost-effective than short rolls. It's far cheaper per foot and you might be surprised how quickly you go through it as a homeowner.


Actually your count is off.
The correct total is 24 cu. in
After adding a 14/3 you'd have 12 conductors...

Tapped current carrying conductors = 9
All the grounds = 1
The switch = 2
12* 2 = 24 cu. in

Update, some of the math was off.  Now corrected.


Actually there is an o-ring that works far better than those typical flat or squared edge washers - it has a larger diameter (fatter) and seals better than anything I’ve ever used.

Walmart has them as well as many other retailers.

Part # 853814-1001 50381


What happens if I use the counterclockwise setting on my power drill to drill a hole?

Conventional drill bits are designed to cut in only one direction, unless otherwise noted. I think one has to make special effort to find a left-cutting bit, although some screw extractors with an integrated cutter will be left-cutting.

Because a drill bit cuts, one wants the cutting edge to engage the work as it rotates. If used in the reverse direction, the cutting edge will drag and become dull in short order.

Along with the dulling, great heat will be generated from the friction. I have read on this forum of people who have used reverse direction on a conventional drill bit to effectively melt through plastic. Drilling plastic requires special bits or special technique to prevent cracking the plastic.


Is it worth replacing this flex pipe with hardpipe

Flex pipe is the lazy way to put in ducting.
I think it should not be allowed for trunk lines and yes you were told correctly it is not as efficient because of the turbulence.
I am guessing this was a diy home because of the cobbled sections of round pipe to flex duct in the photo.
Unfortunately some use it more than others I only use it for short sections from the trunk to the registers.
Installing regular pipe will improve the flow the longer the flex replaced the bigger the improvement in flow you will see.


What are the best practice in drilling anchor screw holes in right locations?

Level, laser or bubble. If the mirrors are all the same, and the mounting location is the same, you could use a template based on the location from the ceiling down. Mark your line horizontally on all the walls, then place the mirror on the wall where you would like it hung, then mark the edges of the mirror on both sides on the horizontal mark. Once that is done, measure in from your mark on each side, place your X, drill your hole and install your anchors. Other options would include cable hangers, saw-tooth...


Required protection for copper gas line passing through metal opening in fireplace casing (Alberta, Canada)

For me, there is nothing wrong with the copper tubing used as long as it is not touching the sharp metal of the hole. For someone that is looking for anything to complain about, well it is time to correct the problem. You can "GOOGLE" CPVC bulkhead fittings or go to the web site  (PVC pipe supplies .com ) and click on the picture with the same heading for a possible solution. The fittings or similar item can be purchased at electrical stores or most home improvement stores that sell electrical conduit. A second fix may be to use a snap-in insulating bushing which you should be able to find at the same previously mentioned sources. A third fix would be to replace some of the copper with schedule 40 black iron pipe (standard piping ). You will of course have to disconnect the copper tubing to install the bushings.  Hope this helps.


Cheap power tools for large number of cuts of aluminium profile lengths

Any circular saw will cut aluminum, copper, or any other non-ferrous metal easily with a sharp carbide-tipped blade.

Keeping the cuts straight, square, millimeter accurate and not damaging thinwall parts will require some guides. My preference would be a radial arm saw, the length is easily handled with a clamp on the fence. If you don't have one, buy or rent a cutoff saw and build a jig. Time spent building it right is repaid tenfold when you cut all those pieces.

Use a new blade - the one that made your deck 5 years ago will make a mess of the aluminum. And get some earplugs too - cutting metal tubing makes noise roughly comparable to the Space Shuttle lifting off.


When you say two short are the mop boards or trim in place? If it can be seen with the trim make the contractor repair , longer flooring or thicker trim. The reason you hire a pro is for it to look good not diy. If the contractor gives you a hard time forward copies of the contract and pictures of the gaps to the BBB and contractors board.


Can I replace 3-way switches with 4-way switches?

Sure, a 4-way is essentially two 3-ways in one device. Usually a 4 way switch has 2 (IN) screws and 2 (OUT) screws. Using one of the (IN) terminals is the same as the common terminal on a 3 way. And using the (OUT) terminals is the same as the traveler terminals on a 3 way. Connect the travellers to the (OUT) terminals, then connect the power or light wire to one of the remaining (IN) terminals, leaving the other empty.

Background Information (if anyone cares)
The following illustration demonstrates the internal workings of each type of switch in a conventional installation. You should be able to see how a 4-way (middle )is functionally two 3-ways (left and right switches) overlaid.


How many splices can a junction box contain?

As many as the box fill will let you have

The limit on box fill is set in term of the number of wires entering the box -- splices don't count against it.  That said, it's time to jump right into the box fill calculations.

You have 9 10AWG box fill units there (1 for each hot and neutral entering, and 1 for all the grounds taken together).  A quick glance at NEC Table 314.16(A) says that a 100x54mm (4" by 2.125" deep) square box has room for 12 10AWG fill units in it, so you're good to go.  If there was an internal clamp, this raises your fill to 10 units (the clamps taken together count as 1 unit as per 314.16(B)(2)), but that's still within the 12-unit limit for 10AWG.

Note that this simplified method relies on all the wires coming into the box being the same size.  If you have different sizes of wire involved, you'll have to use the cubic-inches method with Table 314.16(B).

One last thing -- perhaps you could use a magnet on the end of some fishtape to fish the screw out of the conduit?


How do I correctly wire this lighted switch to provide power down the line?

If you are looking for the neutral to attach to it, there is a big bunch of neutrals in the back. Add a short white wire to that wirenut and connect that to the silver screw.

To provide power to the next lights you need to take a short black wire and pigtail that along with the black to the next load and the black from the breaker. Then use the short black wire to connect to the switch.


Suggestions for building plywood landing and connecting to concrete stoop?

I would build it more or less exactly as you've sketched it, but on posts like a deck. Don't attempt to suspend it on the block wall. Build a conventional floor system with 2x6 sides and joists on 16" centers, then cover it with 3/4" plywood.
Drop six legs to the slab fastened to and supporting the rim joists. I'd probably use one 2x4 under the rim and one against it and lapping onto the joist, inside. Be aware that these will vary in height to accommodate slope in the slab.
Post detail:
 __ __
|  |  |
|  |  |<-- rim joist
|  |  |
|  |__|
|  |  |
|  |  |<-- outer leg member
|  |  |
| <|--|--- inner leg member
|  |  |

You can then fasten it to the block to hold position, but you're not relying on that connection for load bearing. You could also just put a dab of construction adhesive under each post to lock it in place.
As to the slope in the concrete stoop, I'd consider twisting the deck to go from sloped at the concrete to level at the other end. It really depends on what the user prefers, though. The alternative is to set the deck level with the low point on the stoop and create a small transition wedge to blend with the concrete.
A good railing strategy is just to use 2x2 spindles on 5-1/4" centers with a 2x4 top rail (oriented vertically). Optionally cap that with another 2x4 or 2x6 to create more of an elbow rest. Fasten each spindle to the rim joist with two 2-1/2" screws.
The stoop step is a conundrum. Your idea to build a wooden bottom step has merit, but stair sets with random rise heights are a problem. I'd consider building a full 3x3 landing 7-1/4" down from the lower tread, leaving you with two uniform rises above the landing. Mentally this is less likely to result in stumbles.


Better to excavate in the spring or winter?

tl;dr Insulate the excavation area now and dig later.

Excavating in the winter is difficult only if you don't prepare the site. Lay down insulating blankets and/or straw over the entire area to be excavated prior to freeze. This will keep frost to a minimum and allow excavation at any time, such as when contractor prices are lower. Even if you're late and miss the freeze, insulating later allows ground heat to thaw some of the frost.

Excavating early means that the frost now exists at footing/slab level when it comes time to build. This presents its own set of complications, such as difficulty burying plumbing and drain tile and having to pour concrete on frozen ground. Better to have freshly-dug soil at that point, get footings and plumbing laid, and backfill.


How should I unstick an old gas appliance valve?

There is not much to fail on that valve, i think you are correct that it is the paint.  Put a little paint stripper on and let is soak for while. Clean it all up and run the edge of a flat blade screwdriver around where the valve handle meets the valve body.
Find the closest or the main gas shut off and have the appropriate wrench ready at that location in case you need to quickly shut of the gas supply.
check with your gas company before you do this, some times they will have to come out to reset the diaphragm after a meter has been shut off
Get the appropriate size pipe cap and use a pipe wrench to put it on the open end of the pipe with pipe dope so you can work on the valve.
Get a pipe wrench in order to secure the pipe assembly from moving while you work on the valve handle. Take an adjustable wrench ( crescent wrench ) and adjust it so it fits over the handle, The longer the better for leverage. Have a helper hold the pipe assembly from moving with the pipe wrench and then try to gently get the valve handle to move, use caution and just try to move it a little.  IF it starts to move then gently make short movements in both direction until you feel that is moving freely. If you feel you are not getting it to budge then stop.
With all of that being said, i would  suggest you ( or a pro ) just replace it with a modern 1/4 turn ball valve and not mess with the old one.
If you do then have all of your new fittings, dope and valve on site and ready to install. You will also need a test solution of soapy water to test the connections for leaks once the gas is turned on. You can find a small bottle of the solution in the plumbing section of your home improvement center. ( a pro will have everything need to do this.)
Check with the municipality and see if you are allowed to work on gas supply in your town.
Find the gas shut off up stream or if not then at the meter and shut it off.
Check with your gas company before you do this, some times they will have to come out to reset the diaphragm after a meter has been shut off
You will need Two pipe wrenches. Take it off at the threaded nipple coming out of the 90 elbow. The nipple may come out, replace it if it does. Put  new nipple on the  valve and then the appropriate fitting for the gas appliance you will be connecting, Use pipe dope on all the connections.
Did i mention, check with your gas company?
Disclaimer: I am not a plumber i just play one on the intertubes, proceed at your own risk.


How do I DIY a spinning CD/DVD storage rack?

What you are looking for is "lazy susan hardware"

This will give you the spinning base you need to put your rotating shelves on.  I know Ace sells it, probably HD and Lowes do too.

A google search found a few examples of motorized lazy susan hardware - and some how to videos.


Lights are flickering on and off after accidentally bumping into light switch

Removing the cover to look at the switch is safe IF you first turn off power to the circuit at the breaker panel.  If you aren't completely sure which circuit it is, then either turn them all off, or double-check with a multimeter or non-contact voltage detector.

However, most likely you will not be able to see what's wrong with the switch because the damage will be inside the plastic housing.  Since basic light switches cost less than $1, I'd recommend just replacing it.  It's a simple task that's easy to DIY.  Here's one guide, or you can find a dozen others by googling how to change a light switch.


What type and rating of insulation should be used in a basement bathroom?

The best would be sprayed-in-place foam. Second would be foam board, cut to fit the space and then sealed in with spray can foam. EPS foam is fine, but if you are willing to pay for poly-iso you will get a better R value. I would go for a couple of inches thick of foam.

You could also do fiberglass, but you won't get the same level of insulation and you could get condensation in the wall.


Yes, they are giving you separate neutrals so you have the flexibility to put the fan and light on different circuits if you want to.  Neutrals must be supplied from the same circuit as the hot; you can't return current from circuit 1 on the neutral from circuit 2, or it causes a number of problems and safety threats.

In an application like yours, feel free to tie the neutrals together using your preferred wiring method.

Once that and the grounds are hooked up, you have 2 from the ceiling and 2 left on the fan.  One wire is for the fan, the other for the light.  Generally blue is for the light. I have no idea if your house was wired black for the light or red for the light, but whatever.  Hook it up one way e.g.  black-black blue-red, and if that doesn't do what  you want, then hook it up the other way e.g. black-red blue-black.

Make sure not to put a fan on a dimmer by mistake!


Extending the wires of soil moisture sensor without voltage drop

If you need to reduce the voltage drop over a given distance, you need to increase the size of wiring being used.

In this case, with a load of 35mA and a distance of 15m, the voltage drop using 16-18ga wire would be negligible.  As in less than a half percent.

Here is a voltage drop calculator that you may find useful:

Voltage Drop Calculator


I agree with Steve. Ants for sure, maybe pavement ants. You can find several pesticides at DO MY OWN PEST CONTROL. I worked in pest control for 17 years. A Termiticide / Pesticide called Termidor SC will get rid of them for sure. Kinda pricey but it's a concentrate.

You'll probably pay more for a pest control company to do it. Do it yourself. One Ounce per Gallon of water mix should do it.  Just follow the label instructions on the bottle.


Electrician strangely cut and capped hot wire of receptacle

A long shot, but maybe:

Hot wire broke
Instead of fixing it, someone swapped hot & neutral elsewhere and then for the neutral (not hot since they were swapped earlier in the chain) tied it to ground (which to a simple tester will look the same)
Latest electrician tried to fix the problem for you but due to the broken hot, couldn't easily fix it, and due to laziness and/or limited budget (i.e., he knows the landlord won't want to pay for many hours of extra work), he didn't fix it, just made it as safe as he could easily do.

The real fix depends on the type of wiring:
Cables

Remove the junction box and possibly cut holes in the wall for access
See if there is enough slack somewhere to use the existing wire and if that doesn't work...
Replace the entire section of cable (not fun), or
Use an approved in wall (i.e., hidden) splice to add an extension to replace the broken wire (not fun, but not as bad as running a new cable)

Conduit

Identify the other end of the broken wire and disconnect it
Pull out the broken wire
Put in a new wire

With conduit this should be easy. However there may be additional locations to be opened up along the path of the wire in order to get it all the way through. YMMV.


Why does my vinyl siding make noise when it is windy?

Vinyl siding (along with steel) is fastened to your walls with nails that aren't fully set. This allows lateral movement when the siding expands and contracts due to temperature change.

Ideally, the nails are set just snug enough to eliminate in-out movement, which is probably what you're hearing. If they were left out too far, some movement can occur. In fact, since vinyl is very flexible, some movement (slapping) could occur even if the nails are snug. This is one of the drawbacks of the "maintenance free" era.

Unfortunately, there isn't an easy fix. Some underlayment sheeting is embossed or rippled, which can help, as can insulation panels. That's a before-install solution, though. At this point you'd have to loosen each panel on the wall by unclasping the bottom edge, drive the nails a little further, and re-fasten the panels. With the right tool it's not difficult, but it would take a while.

Do make sure that it's actually the siding making noise, however. Check rain gutters and downspouts, window shutters, etc. where applicable.


Wire it using the black and white that were attached to the fan, and cap off the black that was attached to the blue (using a twist-on wire connector, or other approved means).

Note that the switch that used to turn the light on, will do nothing. And the switch that used to turn the fan on, will send power to the remote module or not.  So you'll want to leave the "fan" switch always in the ON position, so that the remote can control the fan/light.


Installing reverse board and batten plywood siding

To me, board and batt means the larger board goes on first and the smaller board (batt) goes on second and laps the edges of each board. Likewise, reverse board and batt means the small board (batt) goes on first and the larger board goes on second and covers the spaces between the batts.

Over the years, we've learned that using plywood for the "board" and just installing batts at regular spacing on the plywood will give the same affect as "board and batt" siding...for less cost and fewer problems because the "boards" are wide and tend to split (check).

I'm not sure I've ever seen (or understand) how reverse board and batt works with plywood. Seems like installing large boards on the plywood with small spaces between them would defeat the purpose (and cost effectiveness) of the plywood.

In any event, both systems are installed on a moisture barrier, like building paper, etc.  This is essentially your moisture covering over the walls and the wood board and batt (or reverse board and batt) is just to keep the moisture barrier protected. Protected from wind blowing off the paper, UV protection, etc...

So, just as @isherwood says, you don't need to "seal" the vertical joint. It will be covered by the batten, or in your case, covered by a board.

By the way, we've learned to extend the moisture barrier about 1" past the bottom plate so water doesn't run out the bottom and blow back up under the bottom plate. If you live in a high wind area you'll want to put a felt pad between the plate and the top of the concrete stem wall to make a better seal against wind blown rain.

Also, we've learned NOT to caulk the bottom of the board and batt to the horizontal Z metal. Rather, we want that moisture to run out. After all, we know the board and batt (or whatever is above the metal) will leak. That's why we install a moisture barrier under the siding. If you caulk...you'll get dryrot on the bottom of the siding that sits on the Z metal. (We use a peel and stick membrane to seal the metal Z flashing to the upper moisture barrier.)


What type of electrical boxes should I use for outdoor fixtures when fiber cement trim openings are narrow & shallow?

It would help to have a single question and focus on it , what is the question about 3 wires?  I can see 2 on the top left and a loop on the right, is the question on how to wire?

I would use a round light fixture box inset in the wall For the upper boxes
If the box is mounted in the wall NMB wire is ok but if the box is surface mounted then it comes down to local jurisdiction rules and amendments.

A wall pack normally needs no box, the connections are made inside the fixture, most lanterns more common with this setup will need a round box. Metal or plastic is your choice.

You mention receptacle / GFCI yes you will need an in-use or heavy duty cover and a weather rated GFCI if the GFCI is outside (many locate the GFCI inside for longer life but with weather rated it doesn’t matter as the electronics are sealed).

I forgot to mention but many jurisdictions require tamper resistant receptacles on top of GFCI.


If in doubt, don't. It might be worth paying a structural engineer to take a look and let you know if it's safe to remove a wall. Depending on the layout and age of the house, it may not be possible to know without doing some destruction down to the studs to see for sure.


Found a handyman with roof tile experience; he put new tar paper under the tiles (3' wide);  but it still leaked during a water hose test!  He then added some drip edging at the gutters (again, 3' wide) and opened an end flap under the tile adjoining the wall;  the dripping stopped with all water caught into the gutter.  And we had a deluge within the week and it worked; cost $700.

And he put those broken-in-half tiles back into the channel saying they are levelers!  His only advice for the open roof tiles was stuffing steel wool into the humps!  Go figure.  The endings of the humps at the edge of the roof are all blocked by tin , so why not the those open humps on the upper?


How should I strengthen my floor joists that are too small?

Your joist timbers are very small dimension (top to bottom) for a length span of 3.6m. I suggest that when you have sistered on the few additional side beams that this is barely enough to help unless you at least doubled (or more) its top to bottom dimension.

You would probably be better off adding additional support at right angles to these puny joists that spanned the 3.2m width of the room. You could do this at two places across the room to roughly break up the spacing to thirds across the length of the joists. The ends of these beams can rest on posts by the side walls. You could adjust the position as necessary so that any doors could still operate OK. The height of such beams would be a key factor at stiffening up the floor above. Obviously the higher the better but if you were able to make a beam for this with some a couple of 45mm thick members with plywood sandwiched in between it could be quite sturdy even if only 170mm in beam height.