How do airtight recessed lights compare to IC-rated ones?

IC or Insulated Ceiling or Insulation Contact are required for can lights that touch the insulation.  You cannot use a non-IC can by moving or cutting the insulation back the 3 inches required to use a non-IC can.  Inspectors see insulation and they expect to see the silver cans, which is what an IC can would look like.  The airtight cans are designed to use a cone that you would snap the socket into and peel of supplied foam gaskets to make the can airtight.  On any other can you look up and see the inside of the can, and on airtights you look up and see only the trim and bulb.

Airtight cans can be IC and non-IC.  The design of the cans and the gasketed trims help keep air conditioning or heating from leaking out of the home through holes in the can.

I guess overkill is appropriate and what ever the code calls for in your area is what is necessary.  The prices should not be much different and even in areas like where I live, the ATIC cans are a little cheaper than the IC cans, and the same should hold true on the non-IC cans.  I suggest using the airtight because it will make your house tighter.

Airtights come in new construction and remodel cans both 4 inch and 6 inch.  Low-voltage 4 inch cans do no have an ATIC remodel can though, just non-IC and airtight.

Remember that the lamps and trims used in the Non-IC cans might not be rated for the ATIC cans.  You have to give up some heat and that will come from lamp wattage.  The inside of the can should tell you what you can use.

Good Luck

Edit 8/27/2016:
Now with the new LED cans you can get 4 inch retrofit ICAT rated can.  Actually on most LED cans, they are mostly ICAT cans, because of reduced wattage.  With the exception of some dimming quirks, which has nothing to do with the cans, unless you are matching existing, I would go with LED.

Again, good luck.


How to get rid of mosquitos in swimming pool standing water

Mosquito Dunks are a doughnut shaped product for exactly your problem. They contain a bacterium toxic to mosquito larva but not toxic to humans, pets or birds. They will only kill larva.
Any adult mosquito travelling by will still be available to bite you. You might also check out designs for bat or bird houses to encourage some natural predation.


High pitched beep in house every 15 minutes

The only thing I have ever heard of making the high pitched beep at intervals is fire or house alarms.  If you have a dead battery in your fire alarm it will go straight to its backup power and beep.  Given the pitch and the proximity to the ceiling and how well the sound echoes it can drive you nuts.

The thing is most of the time these alarms are all installed at the same time.  So if you try to figure out which one it is and which battery to replace, well you are doing the same thing a week from now.  And we all know that batteries only die between 1-6 AM.


What breakers to do I need to connect an outbuilding to main power pole?

You're probably only getting half your circuits because you're missing a service leg. You said it is connected to a 20 amp breaker with 10/2. That really sounds like you're running 120V when it should be 240V.

Your 10/2 can handle a maximum of 30A. The bare minimum change you need to make is to take out the 20A breaker you're connected to and put in a 30A single pole breaker. You will get a voltage drop of around 5% with that length of 120. Pull out the 30A breaker in your sub panel and move the 15A breakers down one row. Only one bus is probably live in the panel right now. Put a 30A single pole breaker on the water heater circuit. (Skip another row in the sub panel for the same reason. ) ONLY DO THIS IF the heater can be set or wired for 120V. Your heater will heat much more slowly if you don't use 240V. This should be functional, but you will very likely trip your breaker if you're doing anything at all when the water heater comes on, depending on the actual current draw of the heater. The supply is definitely inadequate, and you will be relying on the circuit breaker to not let your house burn down. This is also 100% not to code.

If you can upgrade the wiring to the trailer, get a 50A two pole breaker, two 4 AWG conductors and a neutral, and run it through conduit. I will cost a few hundred dollars in materials, but it won't be a fire hazard.


Deck posts - set in concrete or use anchors?

I really prefer post bases for decks over putting the posts in concrete; it's a much better way of going. I like the beefy ones like the EPB66HDG, but Simpson makes a lot of different ones.

Here's a trick for getting them right. Dig the footing holes, and then temporarily attach the connectors to the beam. Put the beam on the ground directly under where it is going to be, level it in both directions and anchor it (stakes or whatever) so it can't move. Then, pour the concrete around it. This gives you post connectors exactly where they need to be. After the concrete sets, just remove the beam, put the posts in, and put the beam on top of them. Simple. If the posts are all the same height you can put short pieces of post between the deck and the beam.

I like hefty footings for 2nd floor decks; I would go at least 1x1x1 (depth set based on your frost line); I have a 2nd floor deck with a roof over it that has 5 footings that are each 2'x2'x'1. You can put a bit of rebar at the bottom to help hold the footing base together.


What are my options when replacing all house trim / molding / baseboards?

For the mill work outside of the cabinetry, you have two practical options:

Paint the trim. But note that oak has large pores, so you will see grain texture through the paint unless is was previously filled (which is unlikely).  This is probably your least expensive option.
Replace the trim. This won't be cheap. Trim is among the most expensive finishing steps, especially when you get into premium quality hardwoods.

This one isn't practical to do for an entire house, but it could be done

Strip, fill, apply lighter dye or stain. Again, oak has a very pronounced grain which can't be fully hidden easily. You can use a wood filler to level the surface but the texture will still have an 'oak' feel to it. This option is a ton of work even for a small project, but you can create a reasonable illusion of a different wood species in color, if not in texture.

As for the cabinetry:

You could paint them, but I don't recommend it except as a temporary measure. Instead, apply adhesive-backed wood veneer to the cabinet boxes and have new doors made up in your preferred wood species. You'll have to be careful cutting and installing the veneer or it will look decidedly sloppy. Best to have an experienced professional do it. Here is a site that sells self-adhesive wood veneers. Here is a company that manufactures replacement cabinet doors. A quick web search will turn up many other companies that provide this service.


How is a a two phase, three wire, grounding plug such as a NEMA 6-20P safe to use?

NEMA 6-20 (hot-hot-ground) is for 240v circuits not requiring a neutral. Some motors or perhaps a heating element.

If a neutral is required for the equipment you wish to connect you cannot use the NEMA 6-20 configuration.


color matching walnut, oak, pine, and antique douglas fir?

Short answer is that you can get them pretty close, but it's going to take some care while staining.

Oak and walnut have similar grains, so with proper staining, they can look pretty similar.  Assuming it's common red oak, your oak might have a slightly more reddish tint to it.  White oak won't have that, but it's less common and generally more expensive.  Pine is more yellow in color and has a less grainy appearance than either oak or walnut, but as it's being used on the ceiling it will be much less noticeable.

My suggestion would be to take the finished newel post into your local big box or woodworking store and carefully match it against stain samples.  Lots of those types of stores will have the samples on red oak and pine, as they're very common woods.  The key is to look for hue, not darkness.  Stains can be lighter or darker depending on how much you apply, so that much you can control.  The actual color is determined by the stain.  You'll also want a clear coat to protect the finished product - make sure you use compatible stains and clears (don't mix oil-based and water-based products - they don't like each other).

Woodworking stores will probably have a better selection, better quality stains, and/or more knowledgeable staff on average.  I won't disparage big box retailers because I used to work at one, and the folks I worked with were pretty knowledgeable.  Your experience may vary.

Since the oak is going much closer to the walnut, pick a stain that looks best on the oak even if the pine sample is a little off.

You can find lots of great tutorials on staining oak and pine on the internet, like here and here.  Pre-conditioner helps keep the stain uniform, which is especially tricky with pine due to its general softness and uneven porosity.  Use cut pieces from sizing your stair treads and box beams as samples to practice and refine your prep and staining until you're satisfied.

You can also probably find a wealth of information on staining techniques on the Woodworking Stack Exchange site.

Good luck!


As Jsotola  alluded to,

You would have to use a  Long drillbit and  Clamp it  in a vice  so that the drill bit is plum  and true on all sides.

Then chuck the drill on to the drill bit.

Then you could glue your bubble on so that it is indicating level.

Good luck to you.


Can I drill a bathroom vent through what appears to be an exterior joist?

The rim joists are over the foundation so you should be fine. That's how mine are done for bathroom vents, outside water faucets, etc.


Trying to wire a 240v line-voltage thermostat

Simple "line voltage" T stat wiring. One wire is L1 (120V potential) from source, one wire is L2(120v potential)source connected to heating strips, then the switch, then L1 source. When the switch closes the 240V circuit is completed. If you have 240V when checking both wires together, and only two wires on switch, there is something wrong with the new fancy switch. If you have three wires coming from the switch then you need a neutral that you probably don't have.


Is this a "Dumping pit" by the builder and who is resposible to pay for this house was built 1998

I hardly think it's Love Canal so I'm unclear why you are scared of it. Sounds like a hole in the ground with tree stumps, et al slowly rotting away.

Dump some dirt on and grade it; repeat as needed. Since it appears that you have left it for a long time and it's gotten bad, you will probably need machinery (bulldozer or track loader) to do the dirt the first time. I'm sure someone will be along to claim it's absolutely essential that you dig it all out, but so long as you are not building a house on top of it, I can't see a particularly good reason to spend that much money for a reliably smooth lawn. Just plan on getting a truckload of soil every spring for a while and fill in the holes.

If the "dump pit" was legal and aboveboard when done, you bought it, you now own it, I'd not expect any help from the builder to be forthcoming 17 years later; I guess you could ask them nicely if you can find them, and you might get lucky - but I doubt you can get anywhere useful in court - not that legal advice is really on topic, but I suspect you'd simply enrich some lawyers and come out with the same problem still unsolved and no hope of any help. Taking folks to court tends to cut off any help (that might be offered for the sake of decency, if you don't take them to court.)


Stuck building craftsman style coffee table

You're cutting a mortise.  The classic method is to drill a succession of overlapping holes, using a bit that's approximately the width of your desired mortise.  You then clean it up/square it up with a (SHARP!) wood chisel.

Youtube it and you can see it being done.

I would advise you one small thing:  I wouldn't run a mortise and tenon joint through the middle of a hollow leg.  I'd fill the hollow part with wood, at least at the point that the tenon will penetrate.


As long as you don't block off the vent at all, you should be fine. I'd get a picture if I could, but I had one customer who had a very similar problem to yours, and because the raised bed was higher than the top of the vents, he built a slanted box, about 55 degrees, from the bottom of the vent up over the soil line. It was basically a 2x4 box covered in plywood, but it looked great.

As long as you don't block off the vent, I don't think you'll need a permit or anything for a project this size, but I am not the expert on that area. If you build something, make it sturdy enough that if it does flood, your structure will remain intact and usable.


6-8 hours with 2 people sounds like it'd be about right to me, but I don't have experience in such things.  2500 ft^2 would definitely be above average in my book, that is like 10 ft wide by 250 ft long. I'd expect that a normal drive way would be 15-20 feet long.


Husqvarna chainsaw will not idle but runs just fine

Many chain saws have two needle screws, one for the idle jet and one for the main jet.
There is a pretty good chance you have something blocking the flow for the idle.  It could be a particle of sawdust, or it could be gelled fuel which sat in the carburetor for a while.  This happens frequently with high ethanol fuel.
The good news is that by disassembling the carburetor, cleaning out any junk, and reassembling it, there is a high probability that you will get your chain saw running just fine.  The cost for the parts is typically $5 to $15.  The time it will take is 30 to 90 minutes.
Prior to high ethanol content in gasoline, this repair would be infrequent.  Now, it seems, some carburetors can clog  up after 3 months of not being used, with fuel in them.
Worst case, some people will buy a knock-off carburetor which might be $20 to $60.  However my guess is that you are savvy enough to replace gaskets and clean out the parts and pieces prior to reassembly.


Above 8’ it would be ok but below that 1/2” Sheetrock or wood panels, plywood , osb ect.


How can I have a light turn on when a pocket door is opened?

There are some very sophisticated kits that actually use a motion sensor on the slider.  These are very very expensive and if you have a problem down the road you are taking out a bunch of drywall.  You can go this route.

However a pantry and utility room are closed off smaller spaces.  I would just put an occupancy sensor near the door in each room.  This will turn the lights on when you open and walk in.


Relay for electric oil filled heaters - does it have to be so noisy?

No, not all relays are that noisy.  Indeed, a solid state relay will make no noise whatsoever.  For example, the Honeywell rt850t-240 is an example of a heater control relay that is silent.  You can read about that here:  http://bit.ly/1Caf1np

NOTE: I do not claim that this relay will work for your particular application.  This is just an example.  However, I believe you should be able to find something similar that will be completely silent.

To answer your other question, a relay is required because standard thermostats run on 24V, and the heaters are either 120 or 240 (actually, there are a number of other good reasons why you'd want to use a relay instead of having the thermostat switch the load directly, but that's the easiest to communicate).  The Honeywell relay I linked to above connects to a standard 24V thermostat and will switch a relatively large 240V load.


Can I use lag bolts when mounting heavy shelf units through 2 layer drywall?

I'm necro posting this only because it's a top result in Google, but contains an important misunderstanding about how connectors such as screws and bolts are designed to work. There is some important information missing.

Imagine a 2x10 laying on the ground.
Beneath the 2x10 is some drywall.
Six large men, each 200lbs, are standing on the 2x10.
Your task is to push the 2x10 width-wise across the floor, with 1,200 pounds pressing it down into the drywall.

The six large men are the lag screws.  Torquing the bolts down presses the wood against the drywall.  That's what primarily prevents it from the sliding down the wall. Not the bending strength of the fastener, but friction between the wood and the wall, caused by the fasteners pressing the wood into the wall.

Returning to the 2x10 on the floor image, consider if there were 8 layers of drywall on the floor, then the wood and 1200 pounds pressing the wood down.  It's easy to see that the drywall thickness doesn't matter.  What matters is the pressure of the fastener pressing the wood against the wall.


How do I properly place devices in an electrical enclosure?

Enclosure

You start with an enclosure that includes a backplate (interior panel) -- usually this is purchased separately from the enclosure itself, but the manufacturers make sizes that fit mounting holes in their enclosure.

Enclosures come in many sizes, different materials, different NEMA ratings, different cover options (screw-on/hinged, handles, locking), and with or without knockouts. Some have ventilation or even fans.

DIN Rail

All components get mounted to DIN rail. All industrial control stuff is available with DIN rail mounting options, including relay bases, fuse and terminal blocks, circuit breakers, and power supplies.

Internal wiring

The internal wiring is all done with single-conductor wire, typically stranded copper, and color coded. Important bits are that Green = ground, and White = neutral. Beyond that, it's standard practice to make any unswitched hots black, but that's it.

Above and/or below the DIN rail, you use Wire Duct to run cables. This comes in a few different heights/sizes, rigid and flexible.

In many panels the wiring can quickly become confusing, so it's very good practice to label everything. This can be as simple as giving each wire a number and labelling both ends (typical), or as complex as text descriptions. You can use label printers designed for wiring, or buy number sets that stick/clip on. I used to be preferential to plastic number sets that clipped on, as they were easy to work with and modify.

Don't forget to ground the backplate and enclosure (there will be designated ground connectors on both).

Hook-up

You should provide a terminal block clearly labelled for external connections, near the point where the wires will enter.

Wires should come in through approved connectors, which really depends on how it gets connected and the NEMA rating you're going for. This could be as simple as a box connector with NMD or BX wiring, or PVC or metal conduit, or flexible waterproof conduit (each option having its own appropriate connector type). Most panels don't include knockouts, so you use a punch knockout tool to create your own.

Tips

Start with a wiring diagram, and number all cables on this.
Physically layout the components on the backplate, just to be sure ensure everything fits. Next cut your wire duct and lay it out, and finally, mark all holes that need to be drilled for DIN rail, wire duct and other components.
1/2" self-tapping screws usually work well (remember, there is a space between backplate and back wall of the enclosure for screws).
Assemble everything on the backplate before mounting it into the actual enclosure.
Make sure all components you use are approved (eg, UL/CSA listed, or whatever is relevant for your jurisdiction)

Inspection

In most jurisdictions the panel will have to be inspected by whoever does your electrical safety inspections, and they'll typically put a sticker on it showing it's approved. I've only done this in Ontario, and in a couple cases have had the electricians doing on-site install specify that they won't install a panel unless it's got the approval sticker (which we were getting anyway). However I'm sure the specifics of this will vary by jurisdiction.

As Mike said, there are a ton of examples if you search the right keywords; hopefully this helps guide you to what the different components are. In any reasonably sized town you should be able to find trade stores for electrical contractors who stock most of this stuff.


Do speaker wires need to be protected at exposed end-points?

Speaker wire is low voltage. Yes, a meter would tell if they were actually hot, but it surely would say no here anyway. If you are truly paranoid, then feel free to put wire nuts on them, or even easier is electrical tape. It can't hurt.

In fact, I have some speaker wire hanging around myself, left by the previous owners of the house. It comes out of a corner near our staircase. Since I have absolute knowledge that it dues nothing, I've just left it there. One day when we redo the carpet in our house, it will get torn out.


The outlet pipe needs to be the lowest point so anything that arrives goes down the pipe, also it all needs to be smooth feeding the outlet.

So, I suggest that needs re-building.


The answer is Yes you can add holes to the back of the box with a hole saw. Hole saws and slug busters are used by Electricians regularly for this. A 7/8" hole saw will provide the correct size for a 1/2" conduit, 1-1/8" will provide the correct size for 3/4" conduit and 1-3/8" is the size for 1" conduit. I use carbide cutters because they are a bit faster and last longer but a standard bi-metal hole saw will work with oil or cutting fluid if cut at a slow speed (full speed / no oil will will over heat the cutter and the teeth will dull quickly). Make sure to provide a little space from the wall of the box so the lock nut will fit inside the box. I usually cut my holes at the top or bottom sides so the wires look neat and installed in a workman manor that code requires.


Using Attic/Loft Space Above Garage for Storage - Adding a Subfloor

If the cords on the trusses are larger than 2x4 than it sounds like they used storage trusses designed to carry a little more load than normal.

1) No don't worry about another vapor barrier especially since it is a garage. The first one helps keep moisture out of the insulation which degrades its ability.

2) Good idea. A small gap allows the plywood to expand and contract with humidity and temperature without bowing.

3) If you are walking on the plywood then I like 5/8" since it doesn't spring as much under my weight (225 lbs), and even more so if you are storing items with significant weight to them.

4) Decking screws should be fine. I would go to 1 1/2" but you are just trying to keep the wood from shifting. 8d nails would work fine too.

5) Plywood and OSB have a higher strength to them lengthwise to span the rafters and carry the weight of the roof. So, yes lay the plywood or OSB perpendicular to the trusses. There is a good discussion of strength orientation here and they say plywood is generally stronger in its long dimension unless otherwise marked.

Good luck!


As many answers and many more diagrams discuss here, color-coding is absolutely meaningless in 3-way circuits.  The only exceptions are if

someone deliberately marks the wires with colored tape (I use yellow for both travelers, no need to distinguish them from each other) or
the work is in conduit and someone used two oddball colors (I use yellow-yellow) for the travelers.

throws up hands Aww, why not? 3-ways are a morass of senseless color coding and absolute lack of marking.

because that's the way 3-ways work.  Seriously.

And this seems to be a confusion: expecting "up/down" to correspond to "on/off". They won't.  Go get a 2-way switch and hold it in your hand. See where it says "On" and "Off" on the lever?  Now look at a 3-way switch. No markings.
Note that in the above diagram, the left switch is "up for off, down for on".
In the 3-way world, there are only 2 states: the state the light is in; and the other state.  Throwing the switch once changes the state.  That's it.
So if you want "Up" at this 3-way location to be "on", you can swap wires all day (it's actually easier to just flip the switch over).  However this effort will be wasted the moment someone throws the other switch in the 3-way circuit; now this switch will be "upside down" again.
Suppose you flipped the left switch above; then somebody throws the right switch.  Now you have to start over.
That's how 3-ways work.
If you just can't stand it, try looking for a 3-way switch which is a pushbutton instead of a toggle.  Making them toggles like they did really pains my OCD.


Cutting a 2" hole through a load-bearing 2x4 stud for a washing machine drain?

Here are load tables. Probably wouldn't hurt to add a sister to be safe unless you also want to pay a bunch of money to a structural engineer


What is causing the loud screeching noise when my A/C shuts off?

It could be a leaking discharge valve or reed on the compressor. When the compressor shuts down the head pressure pushes past the valve. If the unit has service valves, shut off the discharge valve out of the unit, run the compressor until the head pressure increases to it's max, shut off the compressor and listen. Any good service tech can do this. If there are no service valves, then I would run the unit, shut off the compressor and use a stethoscope to listen to the compressor. If it is not the compressor then use the stethoscope on the reversing valve. Check the fan bearings to make sure it is not the culprit. And while you are at it go find a good service tech and never call the other 4 imposters.


How should I install a chimney for a wood stove in my garage?

Assuming open flame heaters are allowed in a garage in your area, carefully check all clearance requirements for the stove and flue.  I would encourage you to adapt to triple wall insulated flue pipe at the ceiling of the first floor and stay with insulated pipe the rest of the way. Do not attempt to change back to single wall pipe.

You may want to install a couple of floor registers to help take some of the warm air from the first floor to the second floor. Remember, heat rises, and depending on how long you run the stove, the heat will eventually fill the second floor.  Some simple electric fans can also be placed strategically to move the warm air around and even out the temp in the building.


Remove greasy material from wooden frame

Most household degreasers work just fine.  Krud Kutter works great, Lysol lemon degreaser also works well.paint thinner even works well as a degreaser


How do I force glue into a hard to reach hollow?

A syringe IS the best tool for such a job. Just make sure it has a nozzle/needle suitable to the adhesive used. They come in many different sizes. For large sizes you may want to locate veterinary supplies. Perhaps even talk to the local vet, who may be prepared to sell you a couple.

As for the PVA, it is generally not a good choice for tiles, especially if the tiles are in a wet area, although I can't think of anything more suitable for squeezing into such a small opening.


What can I do about a saddle valve that won't turn on?

Saddle valves are terrible as actual valves. They are a cheap/easy way to tap an existing water line, but that's it. After you use them a few times, you just can't rely on the needle to cleanly seal against the punctured hole of the copper pipe, and to cleanly come back out again.

In your case it also looks like there may be some galvanic corrosion on the valve, which might also be corroding around the needle and blocking flow.

Replace with a better valve

There are many ways to do this of course, but it basically means:

removing the existing saddle valve
cutting out the small piece with the hole in it
putting in a tee
putting in a valve

If you really can't get any water to come out of the compression valve, then this would be the best way to fix it (and probably never have an issue again).

Use a real downstream valve

You can get away with using a saddle valve.. if you never actually use it as a valve.

Basically, use the saddle valve but put a better valve downstream. In your case, you can use a 1/4" or 3/8" (I can't tell from the photo) compression valve on the flexible copper tubing -- assuming you can get water to come out of the saddle valve.


What does "Level flat to 3/16 per 10 foot radius" mean?

No that doesn't satisfy the requirements necessarily.  3/16" over 10' is the allowed variance in slope.  That means you are allowed 3/160" every foot, not the 10/160" that you are stating.

The abruptness of your use case is what would worry me the most.  For instance if someone had a flat room and then it went up by 1/8" over a two feet span and then continued flat after, I wouldn't be overly concerned about that (althought I would probably throw a few feet of leveler down the day before install).  A lot of installers would just shim some underlayment or shingles here.

Having a dip is a different story because where does the pressure go?  Every time that you walk on that section the wood will "bounce".  Depending on the install method and wood it could eventually fail.  At best it is an odd spot on the floor.  For an area like this I would DEFINITELY fill it with leveler.  This is just $20-50 to make you feel a lot more confident in your install.


How can I attach cabinets and shelves to an Insulating Concrete Form wall?

For heavy loads you can use masonry screws (Tapcon).  It is imperative that you drill to the proper depth and clear the dust from the drill hole.  I highly recommend the hex head Tapcon over the Phillips.

ICF usually has these layers from inside to out:
1. Drywall
2. ICF polystyrene foam form with composite anchor strips at 8" centers for drywall and lightweight mounting
3. Concrete wall
4. ICF polystyrene foam form with composite anchor strips at 8" centers for stucco lath and lightweight mounting
5. Stucco

The strips can be used for light mounts using multiple anchor points but loads should anchor to concrete.  You will have to know the depth from your anchor point to the concrete and then add at least 1" to drill and embed the Tapcon.  In my application: 1/2" drywall + 3" foam = 3 1/2" to concrete + 1 1/2" Tapcon embed = 5" Tapcon using 6" Tapcon drill bit on cordless hammer drill.

Again it is imperative to clear the borehole of concrete dust or you will snap the head off the anchor.  If you do it right these anchors have 10X the load capacity of studs.


Identifying neutral and hot on wire connector

Looks like they just covered the connector and textured everything.
Using a volt meter put one side to the cover plate then one side of the receptacle should show line voltage the other much less or nothing,
there is a possibility of a voltage being measured on the neutral with no connection to a load (called phantom voltage) in that case the lower voltage is neutral.
It matters for safety if wired wrong a metallic fixture may be energized on conductive surfaces but since there is a ground this should trip the breaker.


Sump Pump runs several times a day every day rain or shine

There should be a check valve on the out take pipe after the pump. This prevents water from backing up into the pump and starting the cycle all over again.


Hot Water Heater leaks through drainage spigot after flushing

Those plastic shut off valves on water heater tanks are obviously very cheap and probably low quality as well.

There are likely two main reasons that the valve leaks (maybe three).

There could possibly be residual grit and particulate laying in the valve assembly that keep it from seating correctly. If you captured the initial flush water from your tank in a bucket you would no doubt see some of the sediment in the bottom of the bucket. Sediment build up does happen to accumulate on the inside of the valve due to the small pocket that the attachment point creates inside the tank.
The valve parts could be getting old and corroded to the point that the valve cannot seal fully against the valve seat.

Mitigation information:

If you have a sediment problem you can try to open and close the valve multiple times to try to get the sediment to wash out.
It may be necessary to replace the valve. There are available online videos that can walk you through a valve replacement so I will not cover that here. The main recommendation however is to replace the valve with a nice quality ball valve.
Depending upon the type of valve seats that are in your valve it is possible that it could have seen some damage due to applying too much closing torque to the valve. If this is the case replacement is the best course of action.


Samsung dishwasher dispenser doesn't open until partway through rinse cycle

It would be helpful to know if this is a new problem or a new unit. The first thing that comes to mind is "Are you sure you are putting the dish washing soap in the right dispenser"?

I looked up the manual to your particular model here:

Samsung Manual

You can see on page 18 and 19 it differentiates between the two dispensers. The behavior your are describing is what I would expect from the rinse aid dispenser.

I also once had issue with dishes blocking the latch from opening completely. For instance, placing a sheet pan parallel to the door. The door would open slightly and the dishwasher tab would not dissolve properly until the rinse cycle.


Installing new toilet. Does the wax ring have to fit snug around the hole in the underside of the toilet?

The wax ring should seat so that no waste material can get out from around the drain when the toilet is seated on it.  When in place, it should look like this:

Now you may have purchased a wax ring that did not have the gasket built in, like such:

If so, and you get the sense that leaks are likely to happen, you should go ahead and clean that out and get the flanged kind.

Also, yes, when you apply pressure, it will smoosh out some, to create a seal, but the seal is intended to be between the floor and the toilet - it will not fill in gaps in the drain itself - that's the purpose of the flange.

Hope that helps!


It means sapwood (lighter colored) is permitted in the grading of the board,so it's not guaranteed to be a full-face of "black" walnut (which is the most common walnut to run into that terminology for.) If the's been steamed, the color may not be all that noticeable, since that migrates color into the sapwood from the heartwood - for air dried there is a striking difference (and I consider it more often of benefit than a defect.)


How can I prevent a humidifier from getting moldy?

My mom puts a silver dollar in hers, I think they need to be pre 1960's to have enough silver she says the silver kills stuff naturally (she also puts one in the pitcher in the fridge for drinking water) she has done this for years and swears by it.


Connect Bidet with 1/2 inch supply line to 3/8 toilet line

You can use an ordinary 3/8 tee, with a 3/8 outlet on the side and then add a supply line that has 3/8 on that end and 1/2 on the end attached to the bidet.  Here's a link to one example:
Brasscraft 3/8 to 1/2 inch FIP faucet connector


I have several of those patio heaters and all the assembly parts are very tight fit.  You should closely examine the connection joint and check for any bolts and screws that have loosen or missing.


Grandfather old code during renovations?

It depends on the jurisdiction, my state I can move an outlet up to 6’ without having to update to current code. Even with the kitchen walls open I don’t have to update 3 wire range receptacles unless the panel is on a common wall with the range on that wall.

we need to under stand that updating surface finish (no structural changes) this is not a “remodel” but is redecorating, permits are not usually required for redecorating but they usually are for remodeling.

So it depends on the jurisdiction, new cabinets many call remodeling but it is truly redecorating.


Can I apply polyurethane to my hardwood floors one room at a time?

It make take some work to feather the edges where one room meets another, but you should be able to do one room at a time. At worst you might wind up with a slight line across the threshold, which nobody but you would ever notice....


2 way switch operates opposite to my preference

Swap the travelers and that will reverse the switch position.  Note: make sure NOT to swap the common, as if this is done, the switch combinations won’t all work.


Why do my CFL bulbs turn off after a while?

They're not going in the socket all the way

Because the wide base of the CFL is impacting the structure of the fixture.

It's very common for fixtures to be built with the socket recessed in a way that presumes the long neck of an incandescent bulb, particularly with PAR bulbs.  On a CFL, they necessarily had that wide wedge-shaped base just above the socket (because the rest of the space must be fluorescent tube; fluorescent tubes take a LOT of space for the light they make).

LEDs have a great deal more flexibility about component placement, because the actual light emitter is the size of your fingernail.  So you should be able to find LEDs with long necks (as the market anticipates this very problem; they just couldn't do anything about it with CFL).

It's also possible they're just old

Believe it or not, there was a time when light emitters actually wore out.  That's the whole point of light bulb sockets.  It's not uncommon for a bunch of things, all of the same design, production and batch, used in the same conditions same number of hours, to start popping off at (very coarsely) about the same time.

Obviously you wouldn't replace them with CFLs today, but LED would be the way to go.  Failure rules are a little different for LED; the emitters will outlive all of us, but many builders chintz out on the electronic driver, and that fails.


What are my options to replace this window?

The window frame shown in the picture looks like it would clean-up, paint, and trim-out to leave a clean finished appearance. I'm guessing that the existing window opens and the lever, at the top-center of the window, is for locking the window closed. If that's the case, the window design is allowing for light and for controlled ventilation in a very small opening.
If the window shown in the picture is the metal, hinged, swing-out opener that I'm familiar with, I know that they are expensive and a desirable solution for small basement window openings. The metal components can be much narrower than wood or vinyl window frame components, maximizing the basement's small wall opening for light and air.

I wouldn't advise sealing-up the basement window/vent openings with glass block or any other material. Ventilation can be important for a basement.

If the existing windows are simply a no-go, reach outside of the local big-box home supply store. A handful of 800 calls will give you a good idea whats available in custom order. If you have a non-typical design in mind, talk with some local tradesmen.


Old electrical panel, what torques do I use?

You are looking for the tables in Annex I of the 2014 NEC (and I don't believe they went anywhere with the 2017 edition, either).  (Oddly enough, it specifies torques for slotted, hex, or square drives, but not Phillips or Torx.)

If you're looking for a more authoritative reference, UL 486A/B is the original source of this data (and also provides info about combo-headed screws and I presume things like Philips and Torx drives too).


electrical lightng earth wire and neutral wire the same colour

Most domestic fixed wiring in the UK is done with what is known as "twin and earth" cable. Normal twin and earth cable has two insulated conductors colored brown and blue* on cable produced today and colored red and black on earlier cables. In addition it has an uninsulated earth conductor.
Unlike the americans, we brits place sleeving over bare earth conductors inside boxes. This sleeving would normally be green/yellow striped, but on very old installations it may be plain green**.
Some properties are also wired with single wires in conduit, in the case of single wires in conduit there may not be a dedicated earth wire as the conduit can be used as the earth path.
If the light is fed with a cable, then what has most likely happened is that someone ran out of the proper earth sleeving, so they used a bit of black insulation stripped off another wire to sleeve the earth conductor. If this has happened it should be visible on a careful visual inspection, it's almost impossible to push tightly fitting insulation back onto a wire, so if this has been done then the insulation will likely have been taken from a large size of wire and will be a loose fit on the conductor.
If the wiring is in conduit then things get much more complicated. It's possible that someone used the wrong color wire, but it's equally possible that neither of the wires is in-fact a ground. For example one could be an incoming neutral and the other could be a neutral going out to the next light.
To test earths, I would suggest the following. First turn off power at the main switch, do not use the MCB for this as MCBs normally only provide single pole isolation***.
Then attach a long lead to the earthing system. I would suggest wiring it to the earth terminal of a plug and plugging it in is the easiest way.
You can then use your multimeter on continuity mode to find stuff that is connected to the earthing system.
P.S. It is always good practice to look carefully and label stuff before disconnection to avoid confution later.
* Normally live and neutral, but twin and earth cable is also used for switch drops with live and switched live. In this case the blue/black conductor should be marked with red/brown sleeving, but that does not always actually happen.
** In UK fixed wiring green/yellow replaced plain green for Earth long before brown/blue replaced red/black for live and neutral.
*** This advice on how to isolate both live and neutral applies specifically to the UK, n some countries even the main switch does not disconnect neutral and the only way to disconnect it would be to remove wires.


What is this part called and where can I buy it?

Go to  allaboutdoors.com. Guid, or cam sash top, seasonally/white,  May be part in white only.  Only 3 bucks, buy two or more that price. If not part, tons more to look at.   PART#  538009


Are these doors installed correctly, and are they secure as they are?

With those rough opening sizes, I would have stepped up the door sizes a bit, 32" in a 34" r.o., and 38" in a 40" r.o. You need some space to plumb and level, but 4" is overkill. I tend to install the door as close as possible on the hinge side to the framing (shimming it out for plumb and possibly raising it a bit to keep the top level). I also use a few 3" screws through the hinges to reduce sagging, which also improves security. On the latch side, I shim behind the strike plate and dead bolt opening, and use 3" screws over there directly to the framing. Any door that doesn't have long screws into the framing is a higher risk for being kicked in, but that's honestly a majority of doors out there these days, security seems to be an upgrade.

For the jamb depth, if you can't find a door with the correct depth for your home, sometimes you can get a deeper jamb and cut it back with a table saw. But the easier solution is to get one a little too small and add a piece of filler trim on the inside to make the jamb flush with the drywall and the install the casing over that. I wouldn't even try to line that filler up perfectly to hide the seam, instead give it a 1/16-1/8" reveal and do the same with the casing on top of the filler. The multiple reveals will give it some depth and decent look where trying to conceal the seam is likely to result in an ugly gap appearing several months later.


Can gas company determine that the gas was shut off at the meter (without sending to inspect)?

Most new appliances do not have pilot lights so if they are not being used there is no gas usage. Shutting the main off even during the time the meter is being read won't trigger an inspection. In Earthquake prone areas some home owners have a wrench attached to the pipe so if there is a concern about leaks the main can be quickly turned off. I have never heard of any problems from turning the main off.


Should I raise my subfloor when moving from 3/4" hardwood to thinner laminate?

Do what you can live with. If it means laying down 1/4" underlayment everywhere, do it. Especially if the floor has issues, whether minor or major, that an additional layer of underlayment will assist in correcting. Do straight edge the floor beforehand to make sure it is within the install guidelines for flatness.
When I changed the flooring in the house we have now, there were 4 different types of flooring on a slab on grade. Glued down 3/4 X 2 1/4" maple, 3/4" x 3 1/4" "floating" T&G maple, not glued or anything like that, carpet and click lock laminate. I installed vinyl click lock that was only 3/16" thick in its place. Gaps at the trim where the flooring was pulled up, to look at the gaps left over was more than I chose to live with. I used a gauge block and oscillating saw to cut all the trim bottoms the same, and set small pieces (about 7/8") of matching trim carefully in place with wood glue buttered on both cut faces to hold it there. There was only one door jamb that was an atrocity, and from another door jamb that was demoed, I cut a portion to fit under the recut jamb to fill it in. It all blended in rather nicely. Much better than the gaps. More economical too.


Is it safe to use Extension Cord to Power PC/Routers on already used circuit?

Without knowing the specifics of your wiring, you should be just fine running all of that and more from a single outlet.  On one 15amp outlet I have running all at once a PC, PS3, 120watt AV receiver, and an LCD TV -- you'll be fine!  If you do overload that circuit the breaker will trip or the fuse will blow, and you'll lose power to that outlet.

I would get a more competent electrician out to figure out what is going on with that outlet though.


Can I get a smaller toilet installed? (picture included)

I never seen a toilet with a rough in like that.  Anywho, they make toilet flanges with an offset.  The offsets come in different sizes.


how to insulate attic that contains high-efficiency furnace?

How big is the attic?  One solution is to take 2, 3 or 4" insulation board (R13 to R25) and affix it to the rafters.  This would basically make your attic conditioned space (and thus the air between the foamboard and your ceiling will also add R-value) while also protecting your ventilation pathways.  A board with a radiant barrier on each side would be a plus and be sure to seal between the boards.  If you Google "Superattic", you'll find a better explanation.  NOTE:  On a DIY basis, it's not very expensive.  But if you hire someone and your attic is big, the cost can add up.


How to repair damaged outer insulation on non-metallic cable and BX?

As others have pointed out, you aren't allowed to modify a box as you propose in option 3, but there are open splice boxes for this purpose.  These are designed for enclosing illegal bare splices and made with slots instead of holes, so you could slide the damaged NM cable in without cutting it.  Here's an example of one: https://www.garvinindustries.com/54171-opr

I'm unaware of a version for BX.


How do I hook up a new "pull-type" light switch in my basement utility room?

The extra brass colored box is a transformer for a low voltage system, probably a doorbell. One wire on the outside probably goes to the push button and the other to the chime. It could be some other low voltage device, doesn't really matter, it's definitely a transformer. The green wire appears to be a site installed modification to ensure proper grounding. The smaller black wires are for 120v power. One to house black, the other to house white. Which goes to which does not matter.

To install a lamp base with a pull switch, you need short lengths of white and black wires with solid copper conductors the same gauge as the house wiring. Connect the black one to the brass screw of the base and the other end to the other house black wires and one of the transformer blacks. Connect the white one to the silver screw and the other end to the white house wires with the other transformer black.

If the base has a green and/or hex shaped grounding screw, it is connected to the other grounding wires with either green insulated or bare copper wire. Since these sort of bases are usually non-metallic, there's usually no grounding screw. But if there is one, it needs to be connected.


This might help. It's a showing a three way connection with power coming from one switch.


Usually you will have some sort of strap (as shown in the pictures below) which will go over the receptacle box and then the overhead light will attach to that.


How should I connect a light to box with 4 black wires, 3 white wires?

Final update: Problem solved, but not by me! Had to call the electrician for a recently installed gfci issue. He wired the pullchain fixture at that time.  I unwrapped the tape on the wire clippings he had left behind and found that they had been crimped. Thank you all for your responses.


Why don't HVAC service people want to use outdoor temperature sensors to increase efficiency?

When a heat pump is installed it should be set up to turn on the electric heat strips when it drops below the point where the heat pump is more efficient.  This is calculated on the units performance which should be specified based on the predicted (Charted) lowest anticipated temperature for your area.  If it is using the compressor it will defrost either according to a time schedule or, on more efficient models, when it senses the outdoor coil is too cold and needs to be defrosted.  When it does this, it turns off the outdoor fan and reverses the flow of refrigerant into cooling mode.  It activates the heat strips to keep the air inside running warm.  When it reaches a set temperature or after a set period of time, it will change back into heating mode.
    They showed us this in my Residential HVAC Technician Class last year. Should do everything you want it to. All in one universal replacement heat pump defrost controller with included sensors can be set up for demand or timed defrosts. https://climate.emerson.com/documents/47d01u-843-universal-heat-pump-defrost-control-specs-en-us-1569854.pdf About $81 on Amazon.


Why doesn't a doorbell work after a power outage?

What kind of meter are you using? To check the wiring turn the power off
First check the button.  measure the button if not lit it should be open or very high resistance, when pressed very low resistance (ohms) But you should see a change in either case.

I would then take the chime directly across the transformer. If it doesn't ring my guess would be the transformer as a 16vac transformer unloaded would normally be closer to 20v rms.

Next check the wires, you have a line connected to the transformer and a line connected to the chime, remove one of those wires and measure the resistance (ohms scale) from the wire removed to the other it should be a high value close to infinite (unless it is lighted button then remove it and retest) next short the doorbell wires and repeat the resistance measurement now it should be low probably less than 20 ohms if these 2 measurements are correct the button wiring is fine not shorted or open.

The last item is the chime itself but I think you tested it.


Help: Replacing a Leviton Dimmable switch with a Regular Switch

Here is how "old-school" 3-way wiring works.   Black is always-hot, white is neutral.

Here is how 4-way wiring works.

Note how the 4-way switch changes very little about the wiring.  This second diagram shows that the wiring sequence could vary.
Your smart-switches are using the wiring in a completely different way.  You will need to figure out how to reallocate the wires to find 2 "travelers".
Of course your wires are not yellow. There are no color codes for 3-way wiring. Certain wires must be certain colors because of Code requirements; the travelers get the wires that are left.  I am extremely fond of re-marking them yellow using a pack of multi-color electrical tape... but they don't get that way by themselves.


Hotpoint Washing machine slowly fills with water while not in use, what is wrong?

Something has one of the solenoid valves stuck open.  You could replace the valves, or perhaps clean them out.


ceiling fan/light fixture wiring with 3 (3-wire) cables

Whites all together with a switch loop, that's not good.  It means you are switching neutral.  Power is going

from the 2 black wires (supply and onward) to the fan's hot...
from the fan's neutral  to the switch via the black wire
and then from the switch to the neutral bundle via the white wire.

That is bas-ackwards and was wired by an amateur.

First, the switch loop cable must be identified and both ends of the white wire marked with black tape, per Code.  Also, this white must be used as always-hot, per Code.  This is why: electricians are expected to test wires, and by making white always-hot, it will clearly test as hot every time.  Otherwise if the switch is off, it will test as not hot, and could be mistaken for the usual hot-neutral pair. There was once a rule that white wires didn't need to be marked if the usage was obvious, but you just saw how it isn't obvious even in a simple situation.

I for one am a big fan of marking switched-hot wires with red tape, so I'd mark both ends of the switch-loop black with red tape, while I was in there. Also the black wire on the lamp itself.

Switch-loop black and lamp black (the ones I'd mark red) go together.

The remaining blacks are supply and onward power. They go together with the switch-loop always-hot (white tagged black).  The remaining wires are all white, they go together.


Could I use this Speaker Wire for my thermostat?

Typical "thermostat wire" is a NEC/UL type CL2 cable, just like your speaker wire says it is, so as a replacement for an 18/2 thermostat cable, this will work just fine.


Smells high, but hard to be sure. Older and presumably less expensive implementations seen under sidewalks use more of a concrete grid with small pieces of frosted glass - better relative strength and modesty preserved, but no stargazing from the basement. And, if the glass was broken (it's usually quite robust) there's no chance of people falling through it, given the much tighter support grid.

I'd imagine the sort of thing pictured is done on a one-off basis, so you have to pay for the engineering to your specific application, and the materials. And probably someone's liability insurance on the thing.


How/why is a driver better at screws than a combi drill?

Impact drivers are much better for screwing.   Period.   You will lose less heads and as a user you will have to put less weight on it compared to a drill.

This is because impact drivers have more rotational torque but they also bump (tap) the screw at around 30 times a second.    The drill might have more rotational power but that is what gives it problems.    This power stresses the user to push towards the screw or the screw head to be well made or you will get a slip or head damage.

The impact driver will usually stall before it needs to power through to the point of causing damage or slipping.   The tiny taps it commits to allow it an interval to stall on vs. the user hitting a snag with a drill and committing to adding more pressure right before the stall or getting a slip.

For just screwing things in an impact driver wins bigtime in home construction.   The drill is needed for drilling but often used for screwing because it is a jack of all trades.   Watch any good craftsman do woodwork (kitchen cabinets) and they would never use a drill to secure cabinets together and things like that.


Hardwood floor to french door transition

I ran into the same thing. In some cases it looks OK for the wood to but up next to the threshold.  If the doors are metal, like exterior doors sometimes are, then they can't be cut. You have to remove the whole frame and raise them by adding a spacer underneath. I recommend pressure treated plywood. I have done one door and have 3 more to go. If they are wood and can be cut, the I would trim off the bottom of the doors to clear the floor plus a entry mat / rug.


Re-wiring a router into the main control panel

MoCA might be a solution for you (Media over Cable Alliance). I note that you have quite a few coax cables in your LV box, does one of them go to near the spot you want?  If so, you can get MoCA adapters to repurpose the coax for use with ethernet.   You'll have to do some research, but this should point you in the right direction.  Here is a place to start:  https://www.signalbooster.com/blogs/news/moca
Disclaimer:  I have no personal experience with it, but it seems pretty well represented out there, your mileage may vary.   Maybe others here can comment on experience with MoCA.
EDIT:  This may be a question better asked at another part of SE:  More to do with computers and networking.   You are going to have other configuration issues such as DHCP controls using a 2nd router.  Why keep it? Do you have enough ports on the new router? If so, just use the MoCA adapters (if your coax runs to a desired place) and plug it in. If not enough ports, just add a simple (non-intelligent) switch to add ports. Multiple routers can be a head ache if you aren't an expert, switches will often do the job.
Thoughts from other about migrating this question?


You'll have a couple choices when replacing the handle, you can either get a good Hickory replacement handle like this,

or a Fiberglass handle like this.

Comparing handle types is beyond the scope of this answer.

Either way the repair starts the same way, by removing the old axe head. This will likely be the most difficult part of the job, as the handle was installed to not come out.  You may be able to drill out enough of the material, so the handle will easily slide out. You could also try removing the metal and wood wedges (reverse of install) to remove the head, but sometimes the wooden wedge is glued in so you may not be able to remove it.  If the old handle was fiberglass, it may be easier to purchase a new axe. Removing the old epoxy can be difficult, and time consuming.

Once you have the old handle removed, the installation of the new one is slightly different depending on the handle you've chosen.

Installing a Hickory (wood) handle:

It's best to buy a replacement handle that includes everything you'll need to install it, which will likely come with a notch already cut in the top of the handle (so you won't have to cut this yourself). If you can only find a handle with a wooden wedge and no metal wedges, the metal wedges are available separately.

Start by sliding the handle into the axe head.
Next put the wooden wedge into the slot at the top of the handle.
Tap the wedge in with a hammer.
Cut, file, or sand off the excess wedge (it does not have to be perfectly flush).
Tap the metal wedges in perpendicular to the wood wedge.
Go chop some wood.

Installing a Fiberglass handle:

When purchasing a fiberglass handle, try to find one that includes the epoxy. If you can only find handles, the epoxy kits are available separately.

When installing a fiberglass handle, you'll have to make sure the hole in the axe head is clean.  You can use sand paper, or a small round file to clean the hole before installation.

Start by wrapping the caulking cord (that came with the epoxy) around the handle where the bottom of the head will meet it.
Push the head onto the handle, making sure the caulking cord creates a good seal between the head and handle (or you'll get epoxy all over).
Mix up the epoxy, and pour it into the top of the ake head.
Store the axe vertically (top of axe up) so the epoxy does not leak out, for up to a week (follow directions on epoxy kit).
Go chop some wood.


Basement bath: Can I tie a wet bar sink into bathroom vanity drain?

As long as you put a T into vertical line, not jump on the horizontal drain line you are all good.   There really isn't much else to say.   We do this all the time with double vanity sinks.


1930s roof with no felt lining, solutions without removing roof

Wood shingle roofs in Dallas used to be nailed onto strapping (battens) without any roofing felt underneath. Then when those shingles were worn out a layer of asphalt shinges was put over that, and I don't think roofing felt was used. (I do remember heavy wood shake roofs in the 1970s were installed with felt interleaved with the courses.)

If you have a 1930s roof and the wood structure underneath is not rotted, then you should leave it alone. When the roof needs to be be replaced, then probably OSB or plywood decking will be put down, and modern water barrier on top of that.


Recirculation pump seems to be working, yet no detectable heat on return pipe

D'oh - Problem solved. Heater drain valve was not opened sufficiently, due to unfamiliarity with the new-style plastic collar-operated drain valve. The key clue was the rise in indicated pressure, which showed that there was impedance into the tank. With the valve correctly opened, there is no rise.


Best way to drain water away from house?

You should cut back the pavers and run a buried channel drain along the edge of the concrete slab(s), away from your structure. Terminate it far from the home in an area where it won't cause harm.


Can I put dimmable LED bulbs in a ceiling fan fixture and wire it to a dimmer switch marked LED compatible?

Dimming LEDs

For a typical ceiling fan, the light fixture is exactly that-- a light fixture. It is nothing more than wires, a chain switch, and bulb socket(s).

Dimming LED bulbs in a typical ceiling fan fixture will be completely dependent on ensuring a few things:

The LED bulbs are dimmable
The dimmer switch is rated for use with dimmable LED bulbs
The particular models of dimmable LED and LED dimmer play nice together (this doesn't always happen)

If you have a fancier ceiling fan with integrated remote features, fade on/fade off lights, etc., the actual fan fixture could come into play. However, from your question it does not sound like this is your case.

Illuminated Switch with LED load

First, see here: How does an illuminated switch light up without a neutral

You have a few options:

Look for an illuminated switch designed for use with LEDs (would
need a neutral wire). I've never looked for these before so I can't say for a fact they even exist in production.
Buy whatever illuminated switch you want and hunt for LED bulbs that will just so happen to operate correctly with the switch you buy.
Buy whatever illuminated switch and whatever LED bulbs you want and use a single incandescent bulb in your fan. The remaining bulbs can be LED.

As you've probably noticed, there could be a bit of trial and error in this process. LED bulbs are not like incandescent bulbs where all bulbs were virtually the same and therefore behaved the same. LEDs are driven by electronics within the bulb housing, and these electronics can and will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even from product to product within the same manufacturer.


What are the red streaks in my toilet occasionally?

This article suggests it might be a bacteria known as Serratia marcescen

  if you’ve noticed a pink or red slimy
  substance forming in your toilet bowl,
  you’re not alone.

  It is bacteria known as Serratia
  marcescens, according to Roxanne
  Johnson, North Dakota State University
  Extension Service water quality
  associate.

  You may find this bacterium in moist
  areas such as toilet bowls, sinks,
  tiles, shower stalls, bathtub
  enclosures and even your pet’s water
  dish. The bacteria will grow in places
  with materials containing phosphorus
  or fatty substances such as feces
  residues in your toilet or soap
  residue in a pet’s dish or the
  bathtub, shower and sink.

  Occasionally the pinkish film appears
  during and after new construction or
  remodeling activities. You see it more
  commonly when you have your windows
  open during the summer months.

  “I have observed this phenomenon form
  in the toilet bowl along the water
  line and at the openings where the
  water enters the toilet bowl, usually
  when I’m gone for a few days, or in my
  guest bathroom that isn’t used often,”
  Johnson says.

  “The bacteria survive there because
  the water sits for a period of time,
  with the chlorine dissipating as it
  stands,” she adds. “If you have an
  activated carbon filter on your water
  line, you are removing the chlorine
  and may be supporting the growth of
  the bacteria.”

  While the genus Serratia is not known
  to be a water-borne disease, it has
  been known to be pathogenic to some
  people, causing pneumonia, wound
  infections and urinary tract
  infections in some hospital settings.

  The bacteria are difficult to remove
  completely from your home, although
  the stains are removed easily with a
  general-purpose cleanser containing
  chlorine bleach. You also may add ¼
  cup of bleach to the toilet tank, let
  it sit for 15 to 20 minutes and then
  flush the tank a few times to remove
  all of the bleach. Do not leave bleach
  sitting in your tank because it will
  damage rubber valves and seals.

  Johnson recommends you scrub with a
  brush and household cleaner to clean
  pet bowls, kitchen surfaces and
  bathroom sinks, bathtubs and showers.
  Follow this up with a strong chlorine
  bleach solution, leaving the bleach in
  contact with the surfaces for 10 to 20
  minutes to disinfect the area. Then
  rinse well with water.

  To prevent the bacteria from
  developing, wipe down and dry all
  sinks and bathtubs after using them,
  and use a cleaning solution that
  contains bleach.


How can I finish the gap above my door with Stucco?

Sounds like a good idea.  You will need to put a layer of roofing felt over the plywood, as stucco will absorb water.  You will also need to attach the mesh with galvanized nails or lath screws so they don't corrode.  There are two kinds of stucco: base coat and finish.  For small jobs like this, you can probably get away with using just two layers of base coat.  There are plenty resources out there on how to apply the stucco.


Can I leave Roxul Safe'n'Sound insulation exposed in a furnace room?

Exposed Roxul Safe and Sound emits a significant amount of airborne particulate.  That is exacerbated by anything that disturbs the surface of the Roxul.  If the Roxul is exposed to air that finds its way into living space I recommend finding some way to cover it up.


If walls and floors aren't exactly perpendicular, which side should I align tile with?

I think what you're saying is that the walls and the tub are not perpendicular and that you are going to tile the wall.

You want to know whether you should match a wall or the tub.

In situations like this my recommendation is usually to tile  in a diamond pattern or to use smaller or subway or mosaic tiles such that long, contiguous grout lines are not obvious.

However, if you are going to have long contiguous grout lines I would start by leveling them to the tub and the ceiling, possibly splitting the difference. Consider that a grout line that get slightly wider or narrower as it progresses is less obvious than a tile line that slants upwards or downwards dramatically.


GFCI burned out during low transformer outage

A GFCI may look like an ordinary receptacle with a couple of extra buttons on it. But it is actually a sophisticated electronic device. Unlike many other devices (e.g., computer), it is run directly off of full main electric power, rather than having a large separate power supply that converts power to low voltage and can (and often do) take the "hit" and save the rest of the device from damage. Unlike many other devices (e.g., washing machine & dryer, dishwasher, etc.) it is "always on", even if it isn't really doing much. In addition, the very nature of the GFCI is that it must monitor the electric current flowing through it in order to do its job.

As a result of all this, a GFCI is likely to be one of the most vulnerable devices to a severe overvoltage or voltage fluctuation event, which can happen with a transformer failure.

Fortunately, these types of events are relatively rare. Far more frequent are loss of power - either entirely (a blackout), to a limited degree (brownout) or a (typically) localized wiring problem (lost leg or lost neutral).

What can protect you from these problems? A whole house surge protector. This is typically installed at or near your main breaker panel. In a quick search, I could not find specifications as to specific voltage levels. They are generally for protection against nearby lightning strikes but can also help with utility problems and problems from interaction with other malfunctioning devices. I wouldn't consider a whole house surge protector an absolute guaranteed solution, but it should help mitigate the problem considerably.


Safe to install Illumra wireless switch kit with 2-Pole wiring?

Assuming you have a conventional wiring setup, yo are looking for a single pole switch to control simple on/off of a single fixture. (Double pole or 2-pole refers to one switch controlling two separate lines or devices.)

In the US, the black and white wires would indicate that you are dealing with 120 volts. The black wire should be hot and the white wire should be neutral. If there is a bare wire or a green wire also present, that would be ground, a safety feature (but many older houses do not have these). A hot line can also be red, and two hot lines (red and black) are sometimes present.

A switch breaks or interrupts the flow of current on the hot. In wireless switch systems of the type you describe, the physical switch itself is not connected to the circuit at all. Instead, it controls a relay (called a receiver) that is inserted into the circuit that acts as a switch, making and breaking the flow of electricity.

INSTALLATION: The following instructions assume that there are two cables coming into the switch box and there are both a black and a white wire present.

If you want to use the wireless switch system in place of the existing switch, you can take out the existing switch and mount the receiver in that box. You will later cover it with a blank plate.

The receiver in that system has three wires. The red wire is the hot power going into the receiver. It is connected to the hot line (black) at the switch. The Receiver's white wire is the neutral and is connected to the white wire in the switch box. Note that the existing white wire in the box is probably not connected to the old switch but goes on to the fixture. You need to connect both the fixture white wire and the receiver's white wire to the incoming white wire. The receiver's third wire (black) gives power to the fixture and is connected to the black wire going to the fixture.

If you are not sure which black wire is hot (coming from the main power source) and which is the line to the fixture, this can be tested with a non-contact tester.

Once the wires are installed, the receiver is paired with the remote switch. The switch will then control the receiver and the fixture.

These types of switches are rated for 120 volts and up to 500 watts. Just be sure to order the right type.


How can I fix the guard on my mitre saw?

The parts list shows

M1 Blade Guard and Linkage     EV3BSM1 1
M2 Blade Guard Release Lever   EV3BSM2 1

From which I deduce that Wayfaring Stranger's comment is a good one to follow up. Your saw has a locking lever for the blade guard.

The User Guide also shows 2. Blade Guard Locking Lever

So maybe that lever is jammed/clogged or not in the position you thought it was?

If the lever moves but doesn't unlock the guard, you may be able to disassemble the guard, clean any sawdust and repair or replace any damaged or bent parts.


Will a drill bit that came with a dremel be good enought to drill out a screw?

It should be good enough, even though you are using a rue of thumb.  You might try a screw extractor.

Here's the instructions on using a screw extractor.

Here's a link from a previous post on suggestions on removing damaged screws.

If you extract it in a good way you won't damage anything and can reuse the old parts.  The screw extractor kit is handy to have around, even if it is only used a couple times a year, if that much.  It easily gets the bad screw out, get a replacement handle and screw a new set screw back in.  If you drill it out, the you risk damaging the threads or you might have to tap the hole and go with a large size that might stick out more than the designed screw.


Problem: Knob & Tube + conduit together in ceiling junction box

I see a few common problem areas.

Wire function

First, there are (were) 4 non-ground wires: black and white from each of conduit and K&T.    The lamp only takes 2 wires. The other 2 wires had been previously connected to each other, and you obviously disturbed that.  If there are 2 controlled fixtures on this switch I may be barking up the wrong tree here. But what usually blindsides novices is thinking wires are color coded for their convenience, and white-white, black-black and done.  Color coding is complete gibberish. (at least until you deal with it long enough to get the hustle and flow of it, and even then, inconsistencies abound).

In most junction boxes, you need information as to what each cable does.  This data is only stored in how the wires are interconnected.  There is no other repository of that knowledge.  The knowledge can be re-generated by a skilled person with test equipment, but the classic novice error is accidentally destroying that information by hastily dismantling stuff.

Nutting

The next thing I see is tape on wire nuts.  That is the hallmark of bad wire-nutting, which will certainly create sparks!  Novices put tape on wire-nuts to cover one of two blunders:

doing the nutting badly, and the wires fall out (or otherwise fail to pass a "pull test").  Iterate on technique. Make sure to crank it down hard enough. It should survive a vigorous pull test (hold the nut and pull each wire in turn).   It is not necessary to pre-twist the wires; the wire nut will do that all by itself very definitely, if you are using proper technique.
stripping the wires too long and leaving exposed wire end beyond the nut end.  If you have excess length, then snip 1/8" or 1/4" or whatever off the very end of the wire.  If not, then use electrical tape to insulate the problematic 1/8" or 1/4" or whatever.

The problem here, though...

I think you actually have two pieces of good news here.  Wires don't just snap off by themselves; this wire suffered extreme stress.  This solid wire failed right at the conduit fitting.  It was yanked, by someone dangling the fixture from the wire, and that nicked the insulation.

Good news #1 is it was the hot wire, which means we got to detect it (if it was neutral, we would've never known; and neutral might be nicked too).

Good news #2 is that the conduit is grounded because this wouldn't have happened otherwise. You will never need a ground wire in that pipe; the conduit is grounded and that means so is the metal box.

An electrician should make short work of this, and hopefully will use modern THHN which has a tough nylon outer jacket which probably would have prevented this, instead of the obsolete THW which does not.

It also looks to me like this Knob&Tube is perfectly fine.  The electrician may try to upsell you into a K&T-ectomy, replacing this K&T switch run or all the K&T in the house "for safety".  Believe me, he'll hit you with the full ooga-booga treatment, "very scary!"  Don't buy it for a minute. What will actually get you better safety is AFCI breakers ($40) on all circuits which have K&T.  AFCI trips on any sort of arcing, which is the failure we worry about with K&T.  But AFCI also trips on every other kind of arcing, so the win goes far beyond K&T.

You can kinda forgive the electrician for being all "replace all the K&T", because that was the only upgrade path until AFCIs came along.  Old habits die hard.

Also, you in particular are allowed to use $20 AFCI receptacles. They only protect the circuit downline (past) the receptacle, so they would have to be in the right place.  If AFCIs were mandatory, they would not be allowed.

So don't waste your money prophylactically changing out K&T wires.  Fit AFCIs instead and call it good.


Finally found that there was a leakage of current from the mains... The neutral was getting earthed from the streetlights and many of the houses are receiving current but due to lack of LED lighting they were unaware.


Kitchen double sink drain pipe reverse slope

I do not think you are overly fussy if you paid someone to install a drain line it should be done correctly. That said a drain to drain connector that was just a 1/8" difference would allow such a small amount of water to puddle in the pipe that it would evaporate in short order anyway.

Most of the piping pieces to make up a drain and trap assembly are typically joined with slip joints that can be easily adjusted. You may be able to simply move one or two joints slightly to correct the slope and avoid the aggravation of trying to re-engage with the plumber.


Can this garbage disposal be saved ? Black gunk doesnt drip down to cabinet floor but my skin crawled when i saw this?

It looks like whoever installed the disposal didn't tighten up the locking bracket enough. You have three brackets in there. Two are for the mounting to the sink and they are not leaking.  See picture below of standard installations.

The lowest bracket is what holds the disposal to the sink fitting. You can undo that bracket by turning it counterclockwise with a screwdriver or allan wrench like in the picture. You'll want to disconnect the pipes and turn off the power first. Once you unlock that bracket the disposal will drop down. Clean it off, make sure the rubber flange is securely in place and put the disposal back in place and turn the locking bracket clockwise while holding the disposal in place.The bracket has to attach to the upper bracket in three spots, make sure they are all engaged. Make sure you tighten the bracket all the way.
This requires some strength and working in a slightly confined area so if you don't feel comfortable doing it, get some help ahead of time


How do I wire a switch to control a GFCI Receptacle?

Yes that is correct - you always want to switch the hot.  Just make sure you use a switch and wire rated for 20amps.


Basically you have to bring the level of the concrete up 1½".  1½" happens to be the thickness of 2× dimensional lumber, so you could take some 2×12's, lay that on top of the concrete, and you'd be at the extant kitchen floor level.  2 layers of ¾" T&G subfloor should serve the same purpose, but, since ¾" plywood isn't actually ¾" thick, you'd likely need to buy ¼" luan or underlayment to make the levels match.  Ordinarily luan is bad for tiling, but since you'll be using floor leveler you can probably get away with it.

Once that's done, remove the vinyl from the kitchen, then use floor leveling compound on the whole space.  Once that dries you should have a nice level floor ready for tiling


How can I secure wire fished between two plastic switch boxes?

That box does have clamps.  The "flaps" that cover the holes are clamps. You push the cable in, and the clamps prevent it from sliding back out.


How do by-room electrical code requirements work for a house with open plan or nontraditional rooms?

There are no requirements for GFCI receptacles anywhere in any house.  Certain locations need to be GFCI protected, but you can do that with as little as one GFCI breaker if you are committed.

The bathroom must be a separate physical room, Or at the very least, the WC.  You might be able to put the shower in open space, but the users of the shower won't appreciate that none too much!

However what is relevant to the electrical codes is the areas which are near water appliances, including the WC and shower, but most particularly, the bathroom sink(s) which might be in open space.  Whatever area you designate for the bathroom sink must have receptacles nearby, on a quasi-dedicated circuit according to bathroom rules.

Code will require that your design include areas to prepare food ("kitchen countertops"). Regardless of your design intent, any "counter" areas where a person reasonably might prepare food, must have receptacles such that a machine anywhere along that counterspace only needs a 2' cord to reach a receptacle.  That bookends to a law that requires 2' cords on food prep appliances. It's not required for places you wouldn't be able to put an appliance.

The kitchen countertop receptacles must be powered by at least 2 circuits of 20A, that are dedicated to receptacles that you can justify as being in the kitchen area.  The bathrom receptacle circuit must also be 20A, and all must be GFCI protected.  However, this is not enough in practical terms. The heat applianaces typically plugged in at kitchens (coffeemaker, grill, popcorn popper, toaster) or bathrooms (hair dryer, curler) are almost universally 1500 watts.  Two of them will not fit on a 20A (2400W) circuit.

So you are really better off installing considerably more circuits, at least 2 in the bathroom and 3+ in the kitchen.  You ought to be able to toast the bread for your George Foreman grill burger while making coffee. Your house has 48,000 watts of service, it ought to be able to support 4,500 watts of appliances. rolls eyes

The extra cost of splitting 1 circuit into 2 is piff, $60 ($50 GFCI/AFCI breaker, $10 cable).


Need to hang mirror, AC detected from stud finder

If the mounting hardware would hit a cable, you need only move the mirror a few inches to avoid it.

Cut a small hole in the drywall / plaster and look in the wall.  See where the cables go and hang the mirror in a way that doesn't hurt them.  Cut the hole in a place that the mirror will cover, and you don't need to worry about doing a good repair job on it.


Two Separate Electrical Services (Meters), Disconnecting One and Making Subpanel

If you have 3 insulated conductors and the messenger (support cable is aluminum) the messenger is normally the ground.
Since you have a breaker inside the house you can enter the house and go through the attic. This may be both easier and a shorter run.
Make sure you are clear of any window openings  I think it is 3’ from them.
You are well above code requirements for height  so you are good there.


Rheem OEM condenser fan motor part number

I think you're out of luck on OEM parts for that unit. I've tried to look at this question as to how it would be applicable to anyone's unit. On the nameplate, you're given the horsepower and you know it's 220v; the only question is what RPM it needs to be. I think it's reasonable to assume that if it's a 1/6hp motor, it's not any faster than 1,200 RPM. It is possible that it's even slower though... (that's why I just ask the guy at the store).

I'm reasonably sure what you'd need if it does fail is a 1/6hp ~1,200 rpm motor. (I don't think you can go wrong using a 1/3hp motor.) If whatever's in there ran fine for years, I'd be using a direct replacement of the existing one's specs.

Personally, I never ask for OEM parts (it's not like Rheem winds their own motors anyway). I get the $100 version and go on with life. I go to the parts store, plop the old one on the table and say gimme. Considering that the OEM motor failed less than nine years into service, why would you bother? :) Just run it into the ground: Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

  Six-pole motors run at 1,200 rpm unloaded (7,200 Ã· 6) and between 1,050 and 1,175 rpm loaded. They are often used for air-handling equipment, direct-drive applications, window fans, furnace blowers, room air conditioners, heat pumps, and other equipment where the relatively slower motor speed makes for quieter operation. –How to Determine Speed for an Ac Induction Motor, achrnews.com

  Example: A 20-inch, 24-degree pitch fan blade operating at 1,140 rpm will require a 1/6 hp motor for proper motor and system performance. That same blade operating at 1,725 rpm will require a 1/2 hp rated motor. The blade is designed to work in both applications; however, the increase in operating speed has a direct impact on the hp requirements. Operating this fan blade at the higher rpm requires a minimum 1/2 hp motor. Less than 1/2 hp will most likely cause the motor to operate in an overload condition. –Stop Blowing Hot Air, achrnews.com


How can I remove this ceiling light glass?

Hey all thanks for the help. Ended up using a hammer. This thing must have warped over time as it was just a twist off. It was very secure in there and wasn't budging. The movement I felt before was the actual mount. I put a nice new light on there and we are good to go!


Ecnerwal raises a good point - I would want to know for sure what it is before drilling through it.  Metal plates are often put in around wires and pipes specifically to stop you from accidentally drilling into them - you could break electrical wires or plumbing, potentially causing a fire or a flood.

The plates work like this image shows:

The best thing to do here probably isnt applying more force - either drill somewhere else, or open up a small hole in the wall around it so you can see what you are breaking, then decide if its still a good idea.

As for what will drill through it - it depends on exactly what it is and how thick it is.  Drilling through strong thick steel requires lubricating oil so you dont overheat and damage the drill bits.  They will dull very fast without it.


How should I approach my landlord about doing basic repairs on their house?

I have been a renter in a similar situation to you.  The types of projects I did were major landscaping, installing hardwood floors and trim, replacing old appliances, plumbing repairs, and pest control.

In general you are going to have the easiest time with low cost, low risk work.  By low risk I mean risk of messing up something serious that ends up costing the landlord a lot to fix, or injuring yourself or others (immediately or for future tenants).

Start with a smaller projects, like the pruning and filling cracks.  Describe the work you'd like to do and get approval in writing.  Include in your agreement a way to be reimbursed for minor expenses by turning in receipts when the work is completed.  If the landlord is not local, be sure and send pictures of completed work so you can show how nice it is.  This will build their confidence for allowing you to do future work.

I never had any problem getting reimbursed for out-of-pocket expenses that were minor or agreed to in advance.  I think you may have more difficulty getting paid for your labor.  I never got paid for mine outright, but I did negotiate a lower rent.


Water line pressure slowly drops & well kicks in every 20 minutes. Replaced Check Valve Worked for 2 days & then same problem

Depending on conditions in your well or the care of your well contractor, the check valve might have gotten something (new, or old) caught in it. You could certainly try running the well flat out for a while to attempt to dislodge/flush that out.

It sounds like your contractor couldn't find the issue and just threw parts at it. i.e. "replaced all the couplings" is "fixing what hardly ever breaks."

Yes, pipe would be full of water if the check valve at the pump
(submersible pump implied in this question) and pipe are good.
It's hard to say for sure. Low pressure ratings on a well check valve would be surprising, frankly. Some issue with sand or debris in the well sticking the valve open is my go-to guess, but it's a guess. A defective valve would normally not work for 2-3 days before being defective.
3: Every 20 minutes is annoying and a waste of power, but not the
dire situation that every minute or two is.


Assuming you're in the US. If the new cooktop has three conductors, that means it has components that run at both voltages (120V and 240V). Most likely, the heating elements run at 240 and the downdraft fan runs at 120.

Your existing circuit, because it has only black and white conductors, is wired for either 240V or 120V. You cannot power your new cooktop from this existing circuit, so you will need to install a new circuit breaker and run a new cable.

You should also identify what the cooktop requires in terms of current. It will need to be served from an appropriately sized double-pole circuit breaker using appropriately sized wire. Building code may also impose minimum requirements for service to an electric cooktop in excess of the manufacturer's requirements, so check with your local building authority if you're uncertain.

Finally, the bonding of white and green wires in the cooktop is not advisable (edit: and per comments below is not allowed edit 2: may be allowed for replacement appliances installed on previously compliant circuits). This may be an option the manufacturer recommends when a proper ground is not available, but shouldn't be applicable in your situation as your new circuit will carry a ground (bare) wire.


What could be causing condensation on attic pipes?

What kind of pipes are in the attic space?  There should not be any water pipes otherwise you have a risk of burst pipes.   It sounds like there is a problem with the vapour barrier having gaping holes and missing or insufficient insulation.

A common problem with attic fans is that the ductwork is cold and when the fan is switched on for showering, then the humidity condenses in the ductwork and can run back inside the fan housing.

This doesn't sound like excess moisture -- to me that would mean a lot of moisture on the windows, for example.


Is it OK to have the kitchen drain and roof vent on the same line?

As Ecnerwal indicated, there is no problem as far as fixture units for a sink and washer, but there may be more to this than what has been presented. Exactly what is the vent the sink is attached to venting? And where? Same floor or lower floor? Depending on what is being vented, you could be exceeding the allowable wet vent capacity.

Also, if the vent is for fixtures on a different level, you could have a problem, depending on what code is in effect. Some codes only allow vertical wet vents where all fixtures involved are on the same level. 2 feet of wet vent is not nearly as bad as 10 feet of wet vent.

Using a santee instead of a vent tee was not the best choice. Of course it will work fine, but someone could claim the baffle is preventing proper cleanout access. I'd say it is more of a technical violation than a real problem.

Not knowing what is being vented through the sink drain and not knowing what code is in effect, the only real advice I can give is the same as Ecnerwal: Check with your local authority having jurisdiction.


Refrigerator water line leaking even though not hooked up

If you are talking about the water supply to the fridge from the house the valve may have been bumped. If you can find the valve try and turn it off "lefty loose right tight" (I still have to remind my kids that sometimes LOL). If you find a Saddle valve that looks like this these are notorious for leaking at the connection point and dripping when not connected. the valve may need to be replaced. Hope that helps.
At first I thought you were talking about the fridge itself but after re reading revised, putting both in just in case.
If the water is dripping out of the tube on the refrigerator where you normally supply water to it, it will stop soon. Once a little air got into the tube the system started to empty out. To speed things up pull the water filter if it has one and trip the water in the door these will remove some water and allow more of the water in the system to drain out quickly.  There is nothing wrong or to worry about.


There's nothing wrong with fiberglass insulation beneath the floors.  It will be, most likely, the most cost-efficient solution.

If you have a situation where critters like the insulation, well you have a vented crawl space! Critters get in there.

If you have an issue where the insulation gets moist and sags, the problem is not the insulation, it's a moisture/humidity/temperature issue!  If you have, especially during the summer, humidity circulate beneath the home and begin to soak into the insulation, you have a more serious problem and using a different insulation only ignores or covers it up.

Not knowing exactly where you are, putting plastic sheeting on the bottom of the joists is a potentially dangerous idea!  You are setting up a temperature difference between subfloor and bottom of joist, and then trapping moisture in that area.  A plastic 'vapor barrier' in this area can cause a substantial amount of condensation on the joists leading to wood rot.

Plastic on the soil.


Is it possible to fix this swollen floor?

Your floor is set too tight.  The manufacturer's instructions will have specified a gap--- perhaps 1/2" to 1/4" at the edge of each run.
As the wood accepts and releases moisture it will expand and contract.

Next time, finish the boards before you install them, and leave gaps based on the type of floor board used.

You can probably remove all those boards, discard the worst of them, then re-set them in there expanded state, and be fine.  For the exterior deck area, use boards without an overlapping groove, and leave enough space for water to drain off each board.  Probably use a single layer, not two, exterior.


Wiring for recessed lighting through ceiling with floor trusses

I was waiting for our resident sparkies to chime in, but they're either busy or are also short on good answers. So...

I think that this situation is really no different from any fish job... think it through and don't yank. There are always hazards to your cable when fishing blind. If you find yourself pulling against a lot of friction, back up and start over. It definitely helps prevent friction and binding to have an assistant feed cable while you pull.

I've pulled at least a few miles of cable, and the most damage I've seen from sheet metal gussets like those is a partial-thickness shave of the outer sheathing on the cable. I've had worse damage from pulling through wood stud bores around a corner. In the case of the gussets in that photo, all corners are over lumber, so it's unlikely that you'd get a full-grab puncture.

So, yeah. Work carefully, pay attention, and hope for the best.


How should transitions from inside to outside be handled when running a circuit?

I'd use an indoor JB directly opposite the disconnect with a nipple connecting the two
Rather than trying to run the cable out exposed and then into the bottom of the box, or try to clamp it when it's going into the back, I'd put an ordinary 2½" deep, "5S" (really just under 4¾") square metal junction box on the inside back-to-back with the disconnect, then use a nipple with sealing locknuts to connect the JB to the disconnect.  The cable for the AC comes into the indoor box and transitions to THHN wires there; these wires then run off to the disconnect via the nipple.
You can also have a general lighting/receptacle indoor branch circuit land in the indoor box and transition to THHN as well to take it outside for the serviceperson's receptacle. This is handy if your air conditioner disconnect provides that feature, and also allows you to "camouflage" the junction for the air conditioner behind an ordinary outlet.  Note that you may need that "5S" box to do this, as smaller boxes may not provide enough space for large A/C feeds.
You'll want to caulk and flash around the nipple penetration just like it was any other plumbing penetration, too, since the sealing locknuts help keep water out of the electrical boxes but don't do anything for keeping water out of the wall cavity.  The good news is that being a piece of pipe, it's much easier to flash and seal around the nipple than it would be if you were trying to run a flat-ish UF cable thru the sheathing!


What is a suitable/recommended cable for OpenTherm?

Use standard 1 pair of 0,6 mm^2 'phone' (class3) cable, it'll be enough (70 ohm/km, you'll get 5 ohm with 70m so well over the 50m OT limit) and also suitable for noisy environments as it's twisted. Remember to check that cable insulation is rated at least 250V if you run it in same mains power conduits as required by CEI regulations


How can I cut slots in the ground to install insulation panels?

Unless you're in the perfect type of sand/clay soil, with no gravel or rock larger than say 1/4", this won't happen. You'll have to excavate to the width of a backhoe. In the case of a mini-excavator, this might be 12".
If you have ideal soil you might get a cable trencher to clean out a slot, but they're really designed to backfill as they go.


Single pole switch still controlling multiple lights

It sounds like you swapped your hot and load on the first switch pigtailing the wrong one because when it is off everything else is off.
So your incoming hot should be on 1 side of the first switch that hot should jump to each of the other switches. If everything works correctly when switch one is on you have to figure out the mixed up wires , lucky thing you won’t hurt things by trying different combinations with them all on the same breaker or circuit.


How can I adhere tile to a painted wall?

If the wall surface is solid, free of contaminants, us a mastic and go right over the painted wall, after you scratch it up a bit with sandpaper to give the mastic a slightly rough surface to grip to.

This is presuming the wall is above a countertop not subject to getting saturated with water to affect the drywall backing.


Is it OK to replace a 15A outlet with 20A outlet as long as it's already on a 20A breaker?

Yes, you can do that but it would have to be a 20 Amp GFCI outlet.  It's always a good idea to check the wire size to make sure you have #12 AWG wire.


Electricians are usually only responsible for supplying and installing the fan, not running the ductwork. That is usually done by the HVAC guy or at least another trade or individual. If the electrician has it there contract to run the ductwork fully, then it needs to go to the outside of the house. The water vapor from the bathroom will condense under the metal roof on cooler days and cause water damage elsewhere.


Should i use Acetone on the walls before painting?

You can use a primer.

A latex primer will help the latex paint adhere to the wall. The latex paint may not be sticking if there is too much soap left over on the wall. A primer will stick a lot easier and the latex paint will stick to that without issue.

Since it only takes an hour (though you should probably wait longer than the minimum time), you might also try making sure there is no soap left over on the wall. If it's still failing, I'd go with a latex primer.

To directly answer the question: No; you should not use acetone.