Can Rhino lining be used for a residential roof?

To answer the question directly, polyurethane is used on metal roofs, but the physics behind all of the roofing products that exist is tailored to roofing requirements. There's lots of info online about polyurethane on metal roofing... suggesting that it doesn't "breath".

I have also considered rhino liner on asphalt and cedar shingles, but the cost is quite high and the possibility of condensation problems was too risky. But if you decide to experiment, then be mindful of the fact that roofs need to breath or else condensation will build up and rot the wood underneath. This is one of the reasons why plastic, steel, and/or other non-breathing roofing materials are corrugated (allowing air to flow under the panels).

I have used plastic sheets to temporarily cover unfinished roofs; after 24 hours  the amount of condensation is amazing.

Various paints (and tar) are often sold for roofs, including aluminum, rubber, and acrylic latex. I have used tried all of them. Tar definitely works the best. Aluminum paint works too, but you will probably need to apply a few thick coats. Rubber works well temporarily, but decomposes quickly (after a month or three). I tried an acrylic latex paint on an aged and leaking roof on a wood shed. It helped reduce the leaking after 3 coats but overall, it wasn't effective for stopping the leaks.


Which is better for deck flooring: 2x6 or 1x6 deck boards?

1X stock is fine if you have 16 inch on center joists, and the joists are themselves sized properly. Using 2X stock over undersized joists does help make the deck feel more solid. If you have 24 OC joists, I'd definitely stay with the 2X decking. An other option if you have wider joist spacing is to add a joist between each one if possible,  then you can use 1X wood or even better, composite decking that will last a very long time, low maintenance and you can have your choice of colors and not have to worry about staining etc.


What size breaker and wire do I need for my garage wall heater?

For a 26A nameplate load, Code will require #8 wire and a 40A circuit breaker. There really isn't any legal way around it.

Not what you asked, but by code you also must have 8 ft. from the bottom of the heater to the garage floor, because you have to avoid igniting any potential gas leaks from your car (remember, technically a "garage" is for a car, although few of use use them for that). If your garage has an 8 ft. ceiling, that isn't going to fit.


Practical differences of two types of tile levelling system

I agree that these leveling systems are both more effective for larger format tiles. However, I think the question is good and one I had trouble finding an answer to when I was tiling my kitchen.

Re-use

Wedge: The wedge is re-usable, the plastic tab is broken off.
Screw/Spin: The spin top is re-usable, the plastic tab is broken off.

Tools

Wedge: To get the right pressure, a special tool is needed
Screw/Spin: The spin top is re-usable, the plastic tab is broken off. No special tools are needed.

Corners

Wedge: The wedges are really intended to go across two tiles, so for a corner, you need 4 wedges.
Screw/Spin: The spin top can sit directly on a corner or a T and provide leveling across each tile.

Shifting

Wedge: The wedge pushes both tiles in the same direction, which is not a problem if you have spacers between the tiles.
Screw/Spin: The spinning action of the top can cause the tiles to shift in different directions as you tighten them. This can cause the tile to twist slightly, even with spacers.

Availability

Both systems were available through a certain orange big box store (I found the wedge-type in-stock, and the Screw type needed to be ordered online).

My Experience

I ended up trying the wedge type first, then switched to the screw type. I found that the upward pressure of the wedge on the plastic could cause the tab to break prematurely (and you have to pull the tile up to put a new tab in). With the screw type, I could tighten, loosen, re-tighten as needed. I could also put one screw type at the corner intersection of 4 tiles. In the end, I was very happy with the result using the screw-type.


Best way to seal off the rear of an air conditoner to prevent dirt and bugs from entering?

You cannot seal the condensing coils. The back is where the heat exchange occurs that allows your AC unit to get rid of the excess heat. You can add a external screen or filter media to reduce dust & bug buildup but this will require regular cleaning. If your system has an vent option to bring in outside air only a small amount of outside air is brought in through the evaporator coil and cooled. Window units should have a slight tilt down in the back to make sure the condensate can drip out the back of the unit this is normal. The slight tilt allows the condensate to drip out the back and any rain water that is on the unit to drain and not enter the home.


Check the seal around the faucet, around the sink, and between sink and backsplash by having someone pour water there while you look below.

Failing that, wrap toilet paper around all the pipes. Wait. Check for a wet spot on the toilet paper. Here's your leak. This works better with colored toilet paper (pink, blue, whatever) as it becomes darker when wet.


Identifying wires in an Intermatic pool pump timer

the terminals are thus:

Phase one line
Phase one switched
Phase two line
Phase two switched

The little white wires run the timer motor


Japan: Can I ground a dishwasher by connecting it to a sink?

You can't rely on the integrity of the ground/earth on the pipework of the sink. For all you know it could be connected to PVC pipework further down. In the U.K all pipework is meant to be cross-bonded which is then taken to the earthing bar. However in Japan I am unsure if this is what is done. Regardless you should be earthing/grounding it back to the incoming supply.

In a lot of countries that use two pronged devices they are actually fed from centre-tapped transformers or are double insulated devices. Either way they should not become dangerously live.

In short don't connect to the sink run it back to the earthing/grounding bar.


Installing of Honeywell Wi-Fi Programmable Thermostat

You'll have to connect the blue wire in the thermostat cable at both ends.

Start by connecting the blue wire in the thermostat cable to the Comm terminal in the furnace.

Then connect the blue wire in the thermostat cable to the C terminal on the thermostat.


Installing a Honeywell Wifi thermostat and need a C wire connection

In the picture below you can note that the connection labeled with a 7 in a triangle is the "C" of your fan controller. As per your added note to the diagram this is also connected to your A/C unit so there is a common "C" between your A/C and the fan controller. This same place is where you want to connect a spare wire to run for the "C" terminal on your thermostat.


Garage door - sunlight & garage door sensor

My Genie suffered the same issue, sunlight "blinding" the system.

After reading all the "fixes", it occurred to me that the one simple remedy would be to simply reverse the devices, putting the receiver pointing away from the sunlight instead of into it.

The opener doesn't care which way it's laid out; it's totally arbitrary, at the whim of the installer.

The wiring on the Genie is very simple, with two leads to each device. This can be done in either of two ways: "home runs", (a pair of leads to each device), or a "loop", (one lead going to one device, then looping over to the other one). Both circuits are electronically the same. The red wire connects to the white with black stripe and the white wire connects to the white-only wire.

It took ten minutes to do, and I didn't have to build any boxes or use any toilet paper tubes. Hope this helps.


How to stop my washing machine from squeaking?

congratulations on your choice of machine - it was sold by sears, even if you did not buy it there, they have parts, unless you find them somewhere else on line.

So, i visited

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/GE-Washer-Parts/Model-WHDSR316G2WW/0432/0153200.html

On to this page

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/ge-washer-parts/model-WHDSR316G2WW/0432/0153200/G0803213/00004.html

We see part 414 Rod and suppression spring assembly part  WH16X544

This is a mfg substitute part which to me has always said 'we found the problem after we sold that one to you - now buy this part to fix it right'

RepairClinic, my favored appliance parts place - this week has the part for $23.40
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Suspension-Rod/WH16X544/278886

Sears has it for $25.23
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/ge-washer-parts/WH16X0544/0026/363/model-WHDSR316G2WW/0432/0153200.html

Since the entire motor assembly is supported by those springs, and the weaker the springs get, the closer they get to scraping the motor mount on the bottom of the washer pan.

I think you replace those and it will have its spring back in its spin cycle


How should I repair this poor deck rim joist connection?

Try 2 Simpson HTT4s. The clip is screwed to the short ledger and long carriage bolts are drilled through the joists to draw back the floppy rim joist. Long bolts with washers will hold better too in my opinion, but may not look as neat.


I'd recommend starting by replacing the bulbs to rule out any issues with them.

Assuming the bulbs has been ruled out, it sounds like a bad electrical connection.  If it is affecting many lights, then it's likely upstream, perhaps at the switch, but if not, in another connection point.  Could even be in a receptacle along the same circuit.

Do you know if your house uses aluminum wiring? If so, you should contact a qualified electrician since AL wiring requires some expertise, and the dimming lights are a good sign that there is arcing occurring which can be a fire hazard (it could be a fire hazard with copper too, but much more common with aluminum).

If your house is wired with copper, you can start by first turning off the power at the breaker, and then inspecting all of the connections at each light fixture and the switch.  Look for lose or corroded connections. You're going to need to work backwards from the fixture to the panel, until you find a cause.

Based on the info you provided, it could be a lose connection with either the hot or neutral wire. If you observe the bulbs getting brighter than normal, that is usually a sign of a open/lose neutral wire.

Lose connections usually cause arcing, which can cause a fire, so this is not something I'd leave indefinitely.  If troubleshooting this is outside of your skillset, it's always best to contact a licensed electrician.


Gap between 6" dia wall thimble & 6" hvac pipe

B-vent is what should be used for exhausting gas appliances and most likely why you have a gap in a 6" escussion with a 6" pipe in it. Notice the ID and OD for B-vent. If its just an air handler for a bath fan use a flapper vent.

AMPG's PDF

Now you can fill the new 1/8~1/4" gap with an approved high temp caulk.


Are compression fitting deamed water proof

they have to be listed nec 358.42couplings and connectors referrs back to 314.15 that says they have to be listed, I usually use ridgid out side but there have been a few cases I have used compresson when it is away from people and equipment, I just looked up the ones I have done this with and they are listed as concreet tight (no other specific listing)but the inspector did pass the install (i usually use screw type) so the inspector probably figured they were listed... I did find some that are listed not sure what the difference is O ring or some additional seal? (I did not ask is this EMT or PVC conduit) I rarely use PVC in an industrial facility so I will check those out also. ok I am a dummy you glue PVC so for a box end or coupling there should be no compresson fitting
ao I go back to the part must be listed some are some are not


8' in 6" steps is 16 steps. If the tread is around 10" as is common, that's a little over 13'. If you divide the space in half to have 3' wide steps, with a half landing the same width, you only have 12' to play with suggesting that you'd need steps going round the end rather than a half landing. That's not common on a 180 degree bend (but is on a 90 degree bend).

However, 6" risers are rather shallow. Going just over the 7" risers you mention would allow you to make the climb in 14 steps  which would work with a half landing the same wish as the steps.

There may be regulations to consider, and obviously you have to make an allowance on the width for banisters, but it should be possible for a competent builder to design something into the space.


How to remove window with minimum damage to outside trim

There are replacement window inserts from most major window manufacturers. If your existing window frames are sound, you remove the stops (the vertical strips that hold the sashes in) and the upper and lower sashes. The new window includes a very thin frame with sashes preinserted that attaches and seals to the existing frame. This is done without removing or replacing inside and outside casings (face moldings).

Search replacement window inserts for information from the manufacturers.


Sealing things under a furniture-style vanity

Yes, slap in a bit of caulk. If you're really concerned, get a big hunk of sheet aluminum between your floor joists and the furnace to drain any errant water away from the furnace. (But the likelihood of enough water getting down there to damage the furnace is slim to nil.)


How do I clean dripped paint from a wood floor?

Use a 5-in-1 painter's tool (e.g. Richard brand) to scrape them off.  These tools have an edge that is slightly curved and rounded so that you can scrape without gouging a surface. I've used this for removing burnt-on gunk from a frying pan, without damaging the pan.

You may find that the paint does not actually adhere to the varnish very well and the droplets just pop off, which is the ideal situation. If they adhere stubbornly, you may nevertheless be able to use the tool to plane them flat, reducing these droplets of dry paint into essentially thin white stains. The remainder of the work can be done by a some light sanding with fine paper that won't cut through the varnish. Or, some solvent may be able to help with this last step. Acetone is almost certainly too strong for the varnish, but try isopropyl alcohol is a possibility.


How to replace light switch that is daisy chained to other light switches

The black wire that goes to multiple switches should be your hot leg. If the black wire in the back is on the same side (top / bottom) as the wire going from the screw to the other lights this is the line and it will need to be connected to the other switches and your new one or they will no longer work if capped off if that is the case the other wire is the load. The whites are the neutrals when bundled (some times in a switch loop a single white can be hot, they are supposed to be marked but many times they are not).


Was this installed to code and is it still to code?

Yeah, it’s a mess alright.  The combining of neutral and ground in the main panel isn’t wrong, though.

First, the problem of the 60A wire completely unprotected, since it’s on the meter side of the main breaker.  If that cable took a nail or something, it could flow as much as 10KA and nothing would trip.  Nothing.  The service drop would glow cherry red, but this 6/4 cordage would glow cherry red first and set the building on fire.

Buildings take a calculated risk with the service entrance from the weatherhead to the meter to the main breaker. But by design, this is kept to a bare minimum.  Your electrician extended this “logic” to that disconnect switch, which would be a pointless thing except for the above problem.

The double-taps of the breaker.  Regardless of the above, sticking 2 wires on a lug only listed for one is always a huge no-no.  Now, they make double lugs, and they also make 3-void Polaris connectors.  A reason to do that legally would be if you decided to add a second 60A subpanel fed off a 60A subpanel.  No need to fit a 60A breaker in the first sub; simply tee off the first subpanel’s feeder.

cordage being used as a substitute for building wiring.  The giveaway that it’s cordage is “/4” which is cordage-talk for black white red green.  The ground wire is counted as a conductor.  In house wiring, it’s called /3, because the ground wire is taken for granted.

The disconnect switch lacks appropriate working space, obviously... but who cares? It’s leaving.

So how do we attack this?
It’s a Gould panel, but it’s also I-T-E, and their direct-lineage descent is Siemens. (Who also got the Murray line).  So Siemens kinda has 2 separate lines of breakers, and it looks like their Q or QP line ought to do it. Hopefully our panel expert ThreePhaseEel will come by and give us a definite answer.
However, I’m unclear on whether this panel is rated for tandem/duplex/double-stuff breakers. I can see that it’s a CTL panel, meaning the post-1966 CTL limitations on double-stuffs do apply to it.  Generally when they accept them, they say so, or at least hint at it, with a model number like Foo2032bar (meaning 20 spaces 32 circuits).   We get nothing here, so let’s assume the worst unless ThreePhaseEel can tell us otherwise.
The first rule of grandfathering is you can’t make a situation worse.  So we identify every circuit that serves something which must be a dedicated circuit today.  That’s laundry room receps, bathroom receps, kitchen receps, dishwasher, disposal, built-in microwave.  Put red stickers on those breakers; can’t use ‘em.
Also look for any red wires in cables; if you see that, identify the cable and follow BOTH the Red AND Black wires to their breakers and red-sticker both. Those are MWBCs, we don’t wanna mess with them, except it’d be good to put them on a 2-pole breaker.
Now, we identify two circuits with the same breaker trip value (15 or 20), that could stand to share a breaker because they aren’t used very often together, or they don’t have much load. Pull both their leads off and pigtail them to 1 of the breakers.  Do this twice and we have 2 free spaces.
Fit a 60A 2-pole breaker.  My wild-guess is a Siemens Q260 and hopefully ThreePhaseEel can guide us further, but most likely an Eaton CL250 would be the universal substitute (but only 50A).  Don’t use Eaton BR, Square D or GE.
Now run a 6/3 NM-B (Romex) cable from this new breaker to the main lugs of the subpanel.  Bypass the disconnect switch.
I think that licks all the problems!


The most common reason is the difference in volume between water and steam; water expands to 1700 times its original volume during the phase transition. That makes steam engines capable of driving locomotives easily, but also makes steam boilers an explosion danger. Even in hot water "boilers" which don't produce steam need to be engineered for safety. You could easily lose an afternoon googling pictures of damage from hot water heater explosions.

Another common limitation is the design of the boiler itself. Most commonly the water is heated by a set of tubes inside the boiler. Generally the tubes themselves are designed to be cooled by the boiler water and must remain submerged. Lowering the water level exposes the tubes which can be weakened by the heat. In the absolute worst case if the tubes contain flames rather than water they can be heated to the temperature of the fire itself. If water is added it will instantly flash to steam with spectacular results. (Like over-pressuring so quickly not even the relief valve prevents an explosion.)

In general residential boilers have their design constrained by the need to be relatively safe and function unattended. You are right about the energy savings though, which is why you'll see more tankless types in new work. There are also hybrid styles designed for buildings which are too large for a tankless, which use a small tank combined with an on demand unit.


You might as well use that conduit for all it's worth

A 3/4", schedule 80 PVC conduit is capable of holding 3 6AWG stranded THWN wires and a 10AWG stranded bare copper ground, good for 60A.  Considering that your 12/3 cable is likely to be a harder pull down that conduit, both because it's a cable (vs individual wires) and because UF at that size is made using solid wire, vs the stranded wire you get in THWN that size, I would use the individual wires here instead of wrestling an alligator of a cable down a conduit for no good reason whatsoever.

GO BIG OR GO HOME

There is absolutely no reason to use a panel as tiny as the one you suggest in this application.  For not much more money than what your itty-bitty panel cost, you can get a 24-space, 100A, main breaker panel and an accessory ground bar kit for it, which will be large enough to be reused in your new garage for that matter. The main breaker being 100A isn't an issue here, since its simply a cheap way to get a local shutoff switch for all power to the garage.

In the main panel, you can then use a 60A breaker for the feeder, which means you have enough power to handle most things you'd want to do with even an expanded garage, and certainly plenty of power for your tools as of now.  As to branch circuits, I would have one 20A circuit for lights and the minifridge, a 20A multi-wire branch circuit (using a 2-pole, 20A breaker) for the power tools (assuming you're only running one tool at a time), and a spare 20A circuit provisioned (for a window air conditioner or the likes).  This leaves plenty of headroom for a dust collector, and/or a second 20A, 2-pole circuit for more power tools for that matter.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

Note that you should torque all loadcenter and breaker lugs to their manufacturer specification with an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver.  In the US, this is now required by 110.14(D) in the 2017 NEC, and is a good idea anyway to keep your electrical system from losing you the race the way Greg Biffle's infamous lugnuts did.


Dimplex SCx175l Water Cylinder - T&P valve leaking

I have replaced the T & P valve in a gas water heater , no big deal just a good wrench. Mine was easier than yours because my outflow pipe went straight down to a floor drain ( concrete basement ). Also mine was just a slow drip leak . Because you need to turn your water off , it may be faster to call a plumber.


What happens to carpet when the padding is not thoroughly fastened to the subfloor?

Pad is fastened mostly to keep it in place while installing the carpet, and to keep edges from getting overlapped with slight movement. It's not a requirement for normal function.

Once the carpet is laid there's not really anywhere it can go, and staples wouldn't stop it if it wanted to.


Rudimentary tools (and process) for reshaping a small piece of steel?

First off I wouldn't heat it, it's not that thick and heating it may mess it up. Basically your going to have to get creative. You'll need a vise, clamp it in the vise. If you need to flatten an area put it on a flat spot of the vise and hit it with the hammer. If you need to open it up use a vise grip to bend it open. Search on youtube for "hammer and dolly" for techniques on bending. These tools may help.


What sealant should I use for the base of a sink faucet?

Many facuets come with a rubber gasket, so you don't need any sealant, just install the gasket.


Is it possible to use a single wire smoke alarm with an alarm system?

Such connections are not UL, CSA, or NFPA rated because the alarm panel cannot supervise the smoke alarm circuit.  2 and 4 wire low voltage alarm circuit are supervised and report more to the alarm panel than simply an alarm condition. For example, if properly wired, damaged wiring or missing detectors will cause a trouble condition.

You can physically do what your wondering (use the relay between 120v smoke alarms and an alarm panel).  Only an alarm condition can be detected (not low battery as the 120v detectors have).

In a previous version of this answer I didn't say it the best, but as @gregmac points out in a comment, if you do this for your own benefit fine.  Don't ask your insurance company for the discount given for a listed monitored fire protection system, because this is not an approved method.

The smoke detector manufacturers such as Firex and BRK do make such relays available to activate other devices such as strobes or exit lighting (not to be confused with an "EXIT" light in a commercial or multi-family building), but not for means of UL or CSA rated alarm reporting.


Dirty Dishwasher water flows back into dishwasher

This is exactly what an air gap is supposed to prevent. This is something that sits on the edge of the sink, and lies between the dishwasher and disposal, but I don't see one in your setup. This ensures that any backflow pressure won't go all the way back to the dishwasher. You can buy one at any home improvement store, but installing it might be annoying.


The problem, although difficult, can be solved. If the silicone has squeezed out from the drywall joint it needs to be cut. With a utility knife slice away all dried silicone that is above the surface of the drywall. The lower the better. Don't be overly concerned about damaging the drywall panels; don't butcher them, but don't preform surgery either. After the silicone is removed spackle and tape as usual. BTW I see screw heads in the photo, I'm guessing he used them until the silicone dried? FYI: it is not uncommon to use an adhesive to mechanically secure gypsum panels in place, but to be sure I've never come across silicone as the adhesive! Question: Is the contractor refusing to tape and spackle his drywall installation?


Can this be resurfaced, Yes.  You have several options but first we would need to know what kind of finish you desire. If it is a smooth surface removing the stone is not really that hard but very messy. I use an air chizzle with a wide blade to pop the stone off. In some cases there is brick behind the stone in others just the wall. I have done both in the past. Once the stone is down it can be sheetrocked or a different surface like tile. The last couple I did were large like this and both were removed and sheetrocked making a smaller area and mantle just around the fireplace the look was more modern than the 60's era wall. One in my home I put up cement board over the brick with a concave shape floor to ceiling ~8´ wide and used terracotta square tiles cutting the stone /tile area to 1/3 the original width I thought this looked , still looks nice, so it comes down to what do you want. The sheetrock remodels were less difficult on the brick I installed furring strips to attach the sheetrock the area connecting to the fire box I used large 18" slate slabs around the opening, on the other was porcilin that the owner ordered both looked quite nice 1 with collums to support the mantle made of wood the other mantle was supported by the brick work behind the wall.so it can be done, but it is a messy job to remove I would recommend getting a large painters tarp to put down to protect the flooring and in the area you are working I put down a sheet of plywood for the stones that pop off that you don't catch hit the plywood and further prevent damage to the flooring during the demo work.


Which router would be more useful for kitchen cabinet work?

A laminate trimmer is pretty specialized and not a good choice for deeper wood working. A decent lockable plunge router can handle all the tasks you listed. I would invest in a good quality larger router as my first, more versatile tool.


Would board and batten walls require drywall taping?

It is not necessary. Generally speaking, taping is done entirely for aesthetic reasons (where a firewall isn't needed).


turns out the problem was with the switch, there was a bad contact with the switch on once seated. I replaced the switch and everything worked as expected


Will 4x4 posts carry a patio cover with a 12 foot span?

So 4x4 posts every 7 feet, single 2x6 beams, and 2x6 rafters spanning about 12 feet. Right?
That's all fine except for the beams. They're barely adequate and will probably sag. You don't have to worry about snow loads, but you'll have a wavy roof after a few years.
I'd double them and fasten them together with two screws every 16 inches or so. Don't use a flat 2x4. That does nothing as a board like that is a trampoline.


GFCI breaker trips after 5 or 6 minutes with nothing plugged in

Change the GFCI breaker. These do have a lifetime.

EDIT

The other possibility is that a receptacle  (less likely a switch) on the circuit has gotten wet and is leaking to ground. Recently I had a roof leak into an exterior wall leak onto an external receptacle and trip the GFCI. Going off half cocked I replaced the GFCI breaker with another I had on hand. No effect. Only then did I remember that there was one never-used exterior receptacle on the circuit. I went out to examine it I saw water running down the wall from a leak around a plumbing vent.

I needed the circuit in operation immediately so I removed the receptacle and wired nutted the hots and neutrals and put a cover plate on the box. This stopped the tripping. I repaired the roof leak later.

If you think you have this problem, remove the cover plate on a suspected receptacle and direct a hair dryer into the box to see if the tripping stops.


If DC adapters are so prevalent, why is AC used in construction by default?

Transmission/Functional reasons:

AC is cheaper -- There is less power loss from generator to end user.
High voltage is cheaper to transport --  Power loss is I^2 * R.  R is a constant over any line. For the same amount of power (watts) P = IV.  So we can decrease the power loss by increasing the voltage. - This leads us to transform-ability.  I can easily run AC through a transformer to jump the voltage up or down (with a corresponding change in current).  Doing so with DC requires several more steps.
[addendum] If we were just lighting and heating with electricity, we wouldn't care AC/DC from a functional point of view.  However, lots of things in our houses use motors, and AC motors are cheaper and last a lot longer than DC motors. However, when we were first wiring neighbourhoods, this wasn't a factor.


What is the expected GPM water flow for outdoor garden hose?

Most house hold well test require 5gpm.
This flow rate is needed for many lenders, so 3 GPM is low. The well flow test are usually done for 3 hours non stop.
There can be many factors that reduce the flow.
Galvanized pipes are the worst, they fill up and end up with small channels inside the pipes limiting your flow , you put a pressure gauge on the spigot and have 60+ psi but when you open the flow it drops to 20, it happens I have picked several short buys and had to change the plumbing out.
Debris in the valves can also limit flow
Last debris in the foot valve is another problem for wells


Hot to Neutral at the outlet only reading 112V

Loose neutral on either the GFCI, the socket under test, or an intermediate socket.


NuTone likely doesn't have anything to do with this.  That is a newer NuTone fan cover that has been drilled to fit over the center post on what is a very old vent fan.  That vent fan used to have a round cover that likely broke at some point.

That whole unit needs to be replaced.  The fan and housing look over 50 years old - there's just no point in trying to mess with what you can buy new for $15.


I 'Tinned' the contact pins with solder, this seems to have solved the problem.


Can a plumbing vent start in the horizontal where it connects to drain line?

The only thing I see in the code is “A dry vent connecting to a horizontal drain shall connect above the centerline of the horizontal drain pipe.”, so as long the wye is angled up (which it would be to get the slope you described), I think you would be good.

I am not a plumber, so I advise waiting on some more experienced advise.


What are the advantages of a 21° v 30° framing nailer?

None, assuming you're not in a hurricane or seismic zone or other area where their use is prohibited. They're just proprietary standards. Some manufacturers provide both to accommodate your existing tool set and nail supply, and so they can sell nails to owners of other gun brands. It's mostly a matter of a different magazine, so it's cheap to do so.

I've fired tens of thousands of both and never detected a practical difference in performance. Early guns used full-head nails probably because D-head hadn't been invented yet. The D-head design was initially to get more nails in a "stick"--they don't require spacing with wax or wire--and to allow the use of paper as a cheap binder.

D-head nails are still more likely to pull out of the secondary member than they are to pull through the primary member (though the initial bite of the adhesive coating makes pull-through possible in modern fast-grown lumber, which is softer).

Use whichever gun seems most appropriate, and consider cost and availability of nails in your area. Also consider what your cohorts are using. Nail-sharing and organization can be a factor.


Egress window directly beneath electrical meter?

Working space is:

The width of the equipment but at least 30"
78" high
36" deep for these voltages

This only applies to things that need to be read or that have controls. If it's merely a junction box, it simply needs to be accessible without removing parts of the building.
When they initially installed this unit, they added 2 meters, a disconnect switch and a grid-tie inverter. (or possibly more than that?) All that equipment needs working space.
The installation was botched from day 1.  From here I would research whether they pulled a permit for this work, and if the installation was approved as-is.  If not, I'd call the company back in and tell them to relocate the equipment to a lawful location.  Not a word about your building plans, of course.
Mind you, if it were me, and I had one job: make that location legal, I might build a wooden deck there, with a steel grate over the window area to let in light (and with the grate sitting on reliefs in the wooden deck so the grate was electrically isolated). Don't let them do that!


Dewalt DCS391 - Can't change blade on circular saw because of stuck blade clamping screw

Following up on how I've resolved this and what was the issue. At the time of this post I've tried everything that was suggested and the clamping screw did not bulge at all. However, I did not had access to was pneumatic tools in my shop at home, so I went to a local tool store and they dislodged the clamping screw for me.

They explained to me my mistake and why I had such a hard time removing it. The issue was that I've inverted the washers (r, s) and they were not in the correct position.

Here's a picture of the circular saw once it was correctly assembled with the r and s washers in the correct position.


Wiring power cord Adapter to connect a Round 3-prong female generator plug to a round 4-prong Gen Trans Switch

I looked up the Honda EU2000i Owner's manual, and it appears these generators are only rated for 120 volt output.

I couldn't find much detail on the transfer switch you mentioned, but from what I could find it appears to be a 120/240V transfer switch.

If you were to connect the generator to the transfer switch, only half of the circuits would work, and you'd not be able to power any 240V loads. This is because the generator is designed to only supply 120 volts, whereas your home (and the transfer switch) work with a 120/240V system.

If you really want to proceed, which I wouldn't recommend. The adapter cord would have a standard 20 ampere three prong plug ("hot", "neutral" ground) on one end, and a four prong ("hot", "hot", "neutral", ground) plug on the other. The wiring would be as follows:

Three prong "hot" to four prong "X".
Three prong "neutral" to four prong "neutral" (W).
Three prong ground to four prong ground.
four prong "Y" not used.

With this setup, only the circuits labeled "A" on the transfer switch will work (or maybe only "B" will work, depending on the internal wiring).

My recommendation; based on the fact that you seem to indicate that the power in your area is somewhat unreliable, is to purchase a larger 120/240V generator. This should plug directly into the transfer switch, and will power both legs (A and B), as well as supply 240 volt loads.


It's not a legal method now to not use a Listed connector, I don't know if it was ever technically legal, but the the NW US that was common practice back in that era.

Wire connectors have specific combinations that are Listed for it's use, but the normal colors represent trade norms. A yellow would be too small, a red would be fine, a tan which is between the two is normally Listed for 5 #14's, but the 4 wires being pretwisted increases their diameter, and you will likely struggle to get it to work properly.

All grounds are suppose to be bonded together, a typical large blue wingnut is only listed for up to 6 #12's or #14's, often you will find more than that jammed in, but the proper method is to jumper two smaller connectors together, or use a push in connector with enough ports. Using a push in connected with previously twisted and bent wires sometimes proves challenging. It might be best to use a red on the existing bundle with a pigtail to the second smaller bunch, and add your new ground wire there.


What are the tools and procedures of a re-grout task in shower room?

I have done this many times in the past.

Make a weak solution of bleach and warm water (this works best) or if you don't want to use anything as aggressive then make a paste out of Bi Carbonate of Soda and Vinegar. Apply either solution to the affected areas and leave to soak for half an hour. Take an old toothbrush and scrub until the mould has gone.
Remove the grout (if needed). This can be done manually with a knife or you can buy tools to do this. Here are some Grout Removers. In my experience they don't work as well as they should. If you only have these 2 small areas, then just use a knife but be very carefull not to crack the tiles.
After grout has been removed, the sections can be re-grouted.
The area where the wall meets the floor can be siliconed after you have re-grouted. I am not sure which country you are in but this is the bees knees in the UK - it won't mould over! Dow Corning Silicone

Tips for applying Silicone

Apply the silicone in the form of a thin bead along the required area.
Make a weak solution of washing up liquid and water in a spray bottle and lightly spray the newly siliconed area.
Run your finger along the silicone to smooth it down

Hope this helps!


Goodman Furnace igniter glows but doesn't ignite

If you follow the (3) wires from gas valve, two end up on the control board and one goes to a limit switch on the blower. This limit switch was burnt out on my furnace. It's a relatively inexpensive part to replace. Good luck.


Grohe Ladylux Faucet leaking after 11 years

I never heard of that brand. But then again I’ve been working with plumbing for just a few years. However your right on your thoughts. Depending on how Grohe Ladylux faucets are built it’ll be either the o ring or the cartidge. Always check o ring first because it is way cheaper to fix than cartidge. But if you need to, take the old one out and go to your closest home improvement store to match the correct size. If that’s not it, also look at their cartidges at the store. If you have no luck there, try and contact Grohe company themselves. If they are like Delta or Moen they have a lifetime warranty and can probably get you a replacement part. If you have no luck with Grohe or the home improvement store(s). Then I’d recommend Danco. Danco makes replacement parts for faucets and they might have the cartidge your looking for. It’s a big hassle because cartridges/stems are very VERY brand specific. Hopefully it won’t cost you a leg and a arm. If the price is around $50 or more, I’d just recommend a new kitchen faucet.


How do I fix drywall around wall box so switch plate covers damage?

I wouldn't start cutting out chunks of drywall to fix a small area like that.

Take off the wall plate and remove any loose or crumbling drywall.  Apply a piece of fiberglass tape over the area, mud, sand and repeat as necessary to get a blended finish. Then prime and paint to match.

The fiberglass tape is nice for repairs like this because you can stick it to the wall and then mud on top of, unlike paper tape which you need to apply on top of mud.  I've fixed a bunch of similar defects like this and several years later there are no cracks and they look great.


You need to remove the piece of bell shaped trim surrounding the cartridge. There is very likely a large nut under there. To avoid scratching i usually wrap the lowest part of this trim with 3-4 winds of masking tape, then undo with water pump pliers. These spread the load nicely. You maybe lucky and get the leaky cartridge first, if not at least you know how to do it,so the next one will be easier.


Source for sample designs for a Tree House?

A good design would be what @Tester101 suggested.  Build a platform around the tree.  On one side of the platform could be the tree house.    Some examples are here:

http://www.buildeazy.com/plan_links_treehouses.html

There's a good picture of platform around a tree, now just imagine a bigger platform with a tree house on one side of it.


What wire and conduit is required for an attached-garage subpanel?

I love that you're putting a subpanel in your garage.

When you go to buy wire, check the price of aluminum. Last time I did this, I went looking for #8 copper, and got #2 aluminum at 1/2 the price. That was a bundle of 2-2-2-4 SER (service entrance) rated for direct burial, but I put it in conduit anyway.

Your finding that #3 copper will carry 100A looks right to me.

The conduit you want is schedule 40 gray. You'll also need a male adapter at the main panel + a lockwasher + a plastic bushing.

1.4" will allow a max 1" nominal conduit. Big wires are stiff, so bigger conduit is better. You might be able to run one size larger conduit + conduit bodies, and then drop the size just at the garage wall.


What is the cheapest wood or wood-like material strong enough for books?

The most important factor is the unsupported length of your shelf.

This represents a beam of length L supported at both ends (A,B) with a force applied in the middle (F):

The lowercase "f" represents how much your shelf will bend, ie, how ugly it'll look once books are placed on it.

With uniform load (fixed amount of weight per unit of shelf length), f is proportional to L^4, ie the fourth power of L. This means, for a fixed material and thickness, a shelf that is twice as long, loaded with twice as many books since it is double the length, will bend 16 times more !

This is why a short shelf, like about 40cm as pictured in your question, can be made of pretty much anything, even the cheapest 18mm thick particle board, OSB, whatever. It will stay straight.

But a 80cm shelf, like in IKEA BILLY, has a 16x times harder job... And 80cm IKEA shelves, which are made mostly of as much air as possible, and as little sawdust and glue as they can get away with... they do bend. For a 80cm shelf loaded with heavy books I'd definitely not recommend particle board. The IKEA BILLY one in my living room looks quite bendy. I'll probably replace it with plywood some day.

In summary, don't blame particle board for your 3 ft shelf collapsing, instead blame a wrong use of particle board. 3 ft is too long. It would be fine for storing clothes, but not tightly packed books.

If you want to make a shelf like in your photo, with "boxes" about 40-50cm wide, which is about half as long as 3 ft, then... you can use pretty much any material you want and the deciding factor will be cost and how easy it is to make a nice finish. If you want a 3 ft shelf which can carry heavy books, then the deciding factor will be material strength, and you'll likely end up with 20mm plywood.


Beam in roof has cracked, is this serious?

I would replace it with a new piece of similar sized and type of material. Should be really straight forward to remove the broken one and place the new one.

Sistering a new one on against the existing one is another option if it is not possible to get at the ends of the existing member.

It is indeed possible that these play a minor role in overall structure of your house. They may have been installed at the time of the building construction to keep the ridge board in position as the rafters were cut and nailed into place. But even that said they do provide some triangulation stiffening of the roof structure in the case of horizontal stress placed on the building structure by winds.


Sizing Electric Baseboard Heat (Supplemental)

According to Cadet support, they recommend 8-10 watts per square foot when electric baseboards are used as a primary heat source.  And 6-7 watts per square foot when they are used for supplemental heat.


What is the cheapest way to brighten a basement workshop?

Painting the walls will help, but if your workshop is anything like mine, you're going to cover a large percentage of the wall area with workbenches, peg boards, machines, shelves, etc. And all the paint in the world won't help if you don't have adequate light sources in the first place. So spend money first on lighting, and then on paint if you have funds left over. Using higher quality lighting, and preferably several different types of lighting, will make working easier and more pleasant, so it'll be money well spent.


For the most part, you don't. These kinds of plastic flooring materials are simply not very durable, especially to heat. But maybe you can cover it up with paint or something, after sanding or grinding down the black stain.


How can I safely work around power lines?

Call your utility company and have the power shut off at the pole for the duration of your work in that area.


Installing Vapour Barrier in Crawlspace with Water Heater

I wouldn't. You'd essentially be sealing the heater's fate of rust and decay. (See what I did there?)

First, you might find it less painful than you think to get the poly under the heater. A little levering or winching and it'll be off the ground the half inch you need. I'd put your main poly sheet down, then some thin plywood or something to protect it.

You might even take this opportunity to do the annual drain and flush you surely do, making the unit lighter while you lift it.

Otherwise, just cut around the heater. The moisture that gets through that small area probably won't be a big deal.


That looks like an integrated LED can retrofit fixture (a close match for some of mine - I see the supply converter screwed into the original can socket) and you replace the whole thing - there is no removable bulb.
If you enjoy tinkering the LEDs are probably fine, and the driver circuit is probably dying, but that's strictly "reuse LEDs for your low voltage projects" not "do a home replacement and return it to service at line voltage with unlisted parts and repairs" - for fixing the light in this location that's attached to mains voltage, just buy a new LED retrofit with all the proper listings so that you don't void your insurance...


Should I use caulk or grout between the edge of a tiled bathroom floor and the walls?

Use anti-bacterial water sealed silicone. The reasons being that if you use grout then expansion in the tiles can cause the grout to crack along that tile line. Also caulk will get very grubby quickly. Silicone allows expansion and doesn't get grubby like caulk


How do I remove a fence post from a Wedge Grip support?

Cut the timber so it's flush with the top or just proud of the metal support.
From the top, drill a few ½inch (12.5mm) holes as deep as you can into the remaining timber.
Then with a "old" wood chisel cut away and remove the remaining timber.

It's nearly impossible just to pull the timber post from the metal support as there are metal "wings" inside that grip (clamp) the timber in place.


I removed my bathroom vanity and found some pipes. What might they be?

Drain and dry vent, most likely. Rip some drywall you won't have to do a fussy repair job on because it will be hidden behind the new vanity if you are overly curious and want more info.
You'd put a vanity on them the same way the vanity you took off them was - they are running in the "toe kick space" between the floor of the cabinet and the floor of the room.


Condensation between chair mat and rug in basement: a concern?

Unfortunately, unsealed concrete slabs are fairly water-permeable, so the moisture level in the concrete will be pretty high. Until now the moisture has wicked through the rug and evaporated into the air, but it's now building up under the mat. Having the heating pipes in the concrete makes it worse, evaporating the water up through the rug; since the mat is cooled by the (cooler) basement air the water condenses on it.
Having a water-saturated rug, especially one that's warmed by the heating system, is asking for trouble.
Pulling up the rug and adding a waterproof layer would likely help, but that may not be in the cards; for now remove the mat and accept that the chair may damage the rug.


Are you sure it's not wallpaper? (sorry had to confirm).
Otherwise the only thing I've seen like that was done with a textured roller (probably basket weave looking at the image) and thinned down drywall joint compound.

This image came from www.all-wall.com

NOTE: matching any 'wet' pattern exactly is difficult as the exact consistency of the original mud affects the depth of the pattern, as indeed does how hard the original person pressed/moved the roller. I would suggest practicing on some scrap drywall first. Try different consistencies of mud and/or pressure until you are confident you can achieve a reasonable match. Or, you can go over the whole area with the new pattern.


I'm trying to replace a ceiling light fixture but the wires are different

The symbol you described sounds like ground:

This should connect to the bare wire in your box. All white wires together, all green/bare ground wires together, and the black/L wire to the black wire in the box.

If your fixture has both a bare copper wire and a green insulated one, the green may be to connect different pieces of the fixture. Check the instructions, perhaps it should be bonded to another point on the fixture rather than to the supply wiring.

Finally, do not wrap your ground wire around the other wires in your box. Ground should be kept separate, you don't want to inadvertently have it contact the hot wire (instant short) or neutral (a hard-to-detect failure of the safety ground).


If you can hear it, then it's broken. You probably have a broken fin on the blower blade/impeller or a failed bearing. Get someone to check it out before it completely fails.


Can I run a pressure washer without detergent in the tank?

If you're really worried you could fill the detergent tank with water. But the machines are designed with the knowledge that the detergent tank will run dry from time to time, or folks will forget to fill it... so if the manual explicitly says detergent is optional and there's no metering valve you can turn off (haven't used one, don't know) I would assume this is harmless.


Will frequent sliding while wearing socks cause noticeable wear and tear on hardwood floors over time?

Nothing short of laminating it in acrylic 3" thick and never putting anything on your floor, ever, is going to keep it from getting some damage eventually.

If you find the proper stain color, practice a bit matching the color, and learn how to refinish the floor, you needn't let it worry you too much.  Hardwood is extremely resilient and eminently restore-able - even bamboo can be reclaimed and restored to beauty.

I refer you and your no doubt lovely and certainly conscientious wife to this example of how good a really ugly floor can look (written by yours truly...)

Romancing The Floor


How do I replace a broken bathtub drain?

Get a drain key and a crescent wrench it will expand in the hole giving you friction to turn the drain out.


Third Wire in 14-3 Wire Showing 50V When There Should be None

What you are describing is called a Multi-wire Branch Circuit, and it is completely legal (given that it's done properly).

The first problem, is that it doesn't should like the breakers feeding this circuit are handle tied together.  It should be feed by a double pole breaker, or the two breakers handles should be tied together.  You should not be able to shut off only half the circuit (red only or black only).

As for the voltage.  I'd suspect it's phantom voltage (inductive coupling), and so should not cause any problems (especially if the breakers were properly tied together).

If the breaker for the "red" conductor is off, and current is flowing on the "black" conductor. Because the conductors are parallel, and in close proximity, a voltage may be induced on the "red" wire.  There should be no current, however.  So if a load was introduced, the voltage would drop to 0.

You can determine if it really is phantom voltage, simply by using a low impedance voltmeter.  The low impedance meter will read 0 volts, while a high impedance meter will read the phantom voltage.  An analog meter is one example of a low impedance meter, though some digital multimeters are able to operate in both modes.


Fiberglass reinforced vinyl windows -- better/worse/same as being reinforced with aluminum/steel?

Reinforcement is very important for vinyl windows. That said, lower quality vinyl windows always need reinforcement to help with warping. This only minimizes or delays warping due to the low quality. These include all the vinyl windows sold at Home Depot, Lowe's, and other building supply stores. Although not all those are reinforced. High quality vinyl windows won't warp but are reinforced to minimize deflection which is when strong winds hit a window causing the window to bow ever so slightly and allow air to infiltrate. This happens to wood windows, aluminum and vinyl. Reinforcement also allow the window hardware to be fastened to both vinyl and reinforcement. Fiber glass and other composite materials are used as reinforcement because they are not thermally conductive like aluminum and steel.

High quality vinyl window brands are Okna, Gorell, Polaris Ultra series, Soft lite, and sunrise. All of these windows are reinforced. However, I don't think the Sunrise window hardware is fastened to the fiberglass.


Sealing pressure treated deck, to be stained later on

I would be concerned that sealing the deck now might create a major problem when it comes time to stain it -- I'm thinking big blotches of different shades caused by differing amounts of stain absorption as a result of the sealing.  Whereas greasy food morsels will at worst be a minor problem that will likely be completely solved by the good cleaning you're going to give the deck before staining anyway.


3 wired old light switch to a new light switch

In your old switch I expect the middle wire is the permanent live (hot) and the left and right wires each go to one of the two lamps. You can see that the left wire is not actually connected to the upper switch.

This is a system of wiring lights known as a "switch loop". In this system there are no neutral wires running to the switch.

You don't show any ground (earth) wires either, which would be very strange where I live but may be have been normal in the past where you live.

You can check which wire goes to which lamp by turning off the circuit breaker, checking the circuit is dead and then undoing the right wire. Make it safe by applying electricians tape or by inserting it into a loose wire-nut or terminal block. Then you can turn on the circuit breaker and see which one of the two lights no longer turns on.

The new switch should have come with connection instructions. If not, I would use a continuity tester to find the common connections and the switched connections in the new switches before installing them.

On closer inspection, I see there is a connection diagram moulded into the back of each switch

I would wire it like this:

Note that you need to cut the middle wire shorter and you need a new insulated piece of wire to connect the "common" terminals of the two switches

The new switches also have an insulation-trimming guide moulded on the back, which you should use if possible.

If the new switch is a smart-switch of some sort it probably needs a neutral connection. In that case you need to call an electrician to run new wires from a junction box to the switch. The electrician may need to make holes in your walls ceiling or floors which will need repairing and redecorating.


What can I say ; you need to find a real HVAC guy to trouble shoot your system. Most guys today are parts changers: I know I have had them in my house.  Of course the problem is in the duct work since the installing  company can recoup their expenses with something they can charge you for. Is the new system a lot larger or about the same size as the old unit. If it is about the same size, you probably do not need any new duct work unless the old ducts are grossly wrong. They should have checked this before the quote to replace the unit. I would ask them to have "factory service " called to trouble shoot your system. On a separate note; what type house is this unit installed in? Since I am not there I can't say exactly what is shutting off the unit but I would start with the limit switches.


Freestanding deck - should I use joist hangers or bugle screws to attach joists to the bearers?

It depends on your local building codes, but most places in the US, they will insist on the joist hangers.  Joist hangers are far stronger and safer.

They are not that much more trouble, in fact they may be easier to work with.  You can put them in half way, set the jousts in, then finish attaching them.


Small wire. It's not critical. Thermostat wire is often #18 solid. You could use a paperclip or a twist-tie, although copper would be better in terms of bend tolerance and connection integrity.

You could clip an unused conductor in your thermostat wire bundle and use that, or you could shorten a wire that's in use.


Does it make sense to paint floors prior to installing laminate flooring?

I have always painted my own subfloors. My reasoning is that what ever finished floor material I use will be more easily removed if the subfloor is painted. The carpet underlayment/pad doesn't stick as firmly, Press and stick vinyl tiles adhere  better. My biggest reason is spills are less likely to penetrate into the plywood and cause odor or mold issues later.


Wood can be plasticized by various methods ...

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr190/chapter_19.pdf

"Wood members can be readily molded or shaped after immersion in liquid ammonia or treatment under pressure with ammonia in the gas phase. As the ammonia evaporates, the lignin resets, the wood stiffens and retains its new shape. Plasticization of the lignin matrix alone can be done using chemical modification technologies, which are covered later in this chapter."

http://www.google.com/search?q=wood+plasticizing+wood

However, in this video interview of Gustav Reyes published about a year ago, he states (at 1:50 min) that he makes his wood jewelry using steam and compression.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oq-zsyL3vZ8

However, he goes on to claim that the process was created 10-15 years ago.

Bending any wood, steamed wood included, puts compression on the fibers along the inner radius, and tension on the fibers along the outer radius.  The tension acts to splinter the outer fibers.  The compression acts to buckle the inner fibers.  The solution, long known, is to apply a metal compression band  while the wood is still straight before bending.  The strap is placed on the surface that will form the outer radius.  The strap greatly reduces the tension (splintering) of the fibers on the outer radius, which is good.  But in doing so, it also increases the compression on the fibers along the inner radius, which can be problematic.

If the technique he uses is indeed 10-15 years old, then it is not mere steam+compression and he's told only part of the story.  Plasticizing, as detail in the above PDF, is also and old technique, as is PEG impregnation. So the jury is out.


How do I remove the dome of this light fixture?

those bits of metal you see on each claw are unlikely to be for fixing to the ceiling.  they're probably fasteners for the claw to the base - which would indicate that the claws can be rotated (as to release the cover).
there might be a trick to their rotation such as only one direction or pull-down-then-rotate...


How do I install my new ceiling light fixture?

Left to right is: neutral, switched live, looped live, earth.

New fitting should connect as the old one, blue to neutral, brown to switched live. The bare copper earths should have been sleeved green/yellow since 1977.

This looks like UK wiring, before any USA visitors get confused.


Arc fault circuit with voltage bleed to neutral

You probably have a loose neutral somewhere, or have misidentified a switched hot as a neutral.

Breakers, including arc fault, ground fault, and just standard ones, are either open or closed. They have negligible impact on the circuit, and unless they trip, can be treated as just not there.


Replacing original 1950s exterior door with new prehung: threshold question

Most if not all doors available today are sold at a 6' 8" standard height. There are several widths to choose from. The new pre-hung replacement door should have a slanted sill attached to it's jambs. So, when you are ready to remove the old door: remove old door from entry (remove the pins or unscrew the hinges),  remove exterior trim from top and sides. (This will expose the edge of the doors jamb). The easiest way to remove the jamb is with a saber-saw and cut the fasteners securing the side and head pieces from wall (check for electric runs and water lines). The jamb will tilt out in one piece if cut all the nails. You now have a hole in your wall, but technically is labeled a "rough opening". Take measurements side to side and from the bottom of the header to the sub-floor and decide on the door size.


Does this 3-Way Wiring Violate 300.3(b)?

No, you're actually fine on that front here
The C-D conduit meets 300.3(B) despite not having a neutral in it for the same reason old-style switch loops were compliant with that rule: all the power is coming back via the same wiring path it went to the switch on.  In other words, current in on the hot = current out on one of the two travelers, which are both in the same conduit as the hot wire, thus there is no issue with a stray loop.
However, there's no need for the gymnastics with the neutral to the add-on switch
However, your plan does something rather needless by running neutral all the way from the main switch's neutral terminal to the add-on switch.  Instead, you can simply tap the neutral connection for the add-on switch off at the light fixture box instead by nutting the white wire from C in with the rest of the neutrals there.
This also is a chance to fix the Code issue that does exist with the current wiring
There is one problem with the existing wiring though, and it has nothing to do with improper wiring loops, but with color.  You see, the reason you're permitted to remark a white wire in a cable as a hot is because you can't get cables with arbitrary-colored wires in them without going to great length and expense to have them custom-made for you.  However, that's not an issue in conduit jobs, where the electrician gets to choose which wires and colors to run when they pull the wire through.
As a result, that white traveler wire violates NEC 200.7(C) point 1 in two ways:

(C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More. The use of insulation that is
white or gray or that has three continuous white or gray stripes
for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or
more shall be permitted only as in (1) and (2).
(1) If part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded
conductor by marking tape, painting, or other effective
means at its termination and at each location where the
conductor is visible and accessible. Identification shall
encircle the insulation and shall be a color other than
white, gray, or green. If used for single-pole, 3-way or
4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white
or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray
stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but
not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet.

Since you're turning the white wire in C-D into a neutral, and already have a neutral in the A-B conduit, you can simply remove the extra white wire from the conduit (slowly and carefully!), or abandon it in place by capping it off at both ends if you'd rather not fuss with it at this point.


How do I make professional grade double pane glass at home?

Glazing manufacturers have spent decades perfecting a spacer system that does not eventually leak and condense. They still haven't completely perfected it, though they are much better than 20 years ago. There is no way you're going to put together a system that does not eventually leak, especially with a vacuum. You'll have a better chance with inert gas, but I'm not convinced even professional argon filled glazing stays argon filled years later. It's not that I doubt your fabrication skills, it's just that it's a very difficult problem to address.

For all the time and effort spent assembling a window system, it's worth buying professionally built glazing units. If you want to save some money, forgo the argon filled and simply get dual glazed units with a low-E coating. IMO, these offer decent thermal performance and good value.


Is it ok to pad a washing machine against the adjacent cabinetry?

We had a washing machine vibrate violently when we tested it for the first time.
It turned out that it had these shipping bolts that was securing the drum. When we removed them the vibration stopped.

Check to see if youe machine has any shipping protection in place. If so follow the instructions to remove them.


Installing Nest 3rd generation thermostat from Old Trane Weathertron Thermostat (Mercury one)

While you do not state if this is a heat pump unit - the wiring indicates it is..

Your NEST screen shows that Rc (24Volt power for Cooling Circuit) is connected and Rh (24Volt power for Heating Circuit) is not connected, yet in your picture for wiring hook up your red wire is connected to the Rh line (so how does Rc get power and show a connection?). The Nest is either reporting wrong - or you have changed something between pictures.

You can run a jumper across from Rc to Rh since you only have one Red wire. Unless your NEST configuration allows you to to do that through software - if the software does this for you when you select heat pump - I would venture the red they will have you connect to Rc and program jumper to Rh it might aut connect it as well.

You will also need to make sure you specify in the NEST system that you have a HEAT pump unit - this might be a reason Rh does not work and Rc does.

Why you have BLACK X2 to HUM (which I think is humidifier) - I don't know.
X2 is supposed to be AUXilliary Heat and would be connected to W2.

You can see my post here for Thermostat wiring proper color code and also what the individual labels mean - what circuit they are for.


Is an air gap required for our new Kinetico water softener?

This may be a little late for you, given the question is some months old, however...

I have a Kinetico Premier Compact softener installed by the main water entry to the house.
It was installed about seven months ago by the local Kinetico distributor.

The drain tube does go to an air gap under the kitchen sink.

The installation manual states that this should be done, as shown here


What methods for installing light fixture in middle of room, with lathe and plaster ceiling?

There are two options that don't involve drilling hole in joists and fishing wire:

Carefully cut out an entire lathe. Score both sides of the plaster and ever so gently drop the entire strip.  Notch each joist, run the wire, and install metal cover plates.
Same as the first one, except use a 2" hole saw at each joist, and remove only the 2" of plaster and wood.  Notch the joist as above.

Before starting, research the topic of joist notching rules... the middle of a floor joist on the bottom is in tension, and not the best place for a notch.


Regency gas Fireplace main burner is auto igniting and won't shut off until i turn off gas valve

It sounds as though there is a short in the wiring somewhere.  Most fireplace remotes will still function manually with the batteries removed.  The C34 utilized a SIT millevolt gas valve.  The remote controls' 2 wires will be attached to the valves "TH" terminal & the THTP" terminal (top & bottom terminals). If you remove 1 of the wires & the issue ceases, its a remote problem - & the fireplace is fine.  At 17yrs old, its probably the remote.  The reason that the burner comes on 30 seconds after lighting is because that about how long it takes for the thermopile to generate enough power to energize the valve.  The click you hear shortly after shutting off the gas is the control valve closing from the pilot being shut off - a safety device.


Counting Smoke Detector Wires In Junction Box

For box  fill calclations, you start with cubic inches...different wires take different amounts of space.

18 AWG wires take 1.5 cubic inches
16 AWG wires take 1.75
14 AWG takes 2.00
12 AWG takes 2.25
10 AWG takes 2.50
8 AWG takes 3.00
6 AWG takes 5.00 cubic inches

Larger wires require special engineering.

all grounds are broken out and count only as 1 of rhe largest ground wire.

All cable clamps together count as 1 of the largest wire clamped.

If there is a yoke (mounted piece of equipment in the box), that counts as 2  of the largest wire going to it.

You have to total up the cubic inches and make sure the box is big


How do I add a socket to a fused alarm spur?

The easy option is to install a radial circuit straight off the consumer unit, due to changes to the wiring regulations this circuit will need to be protected by a circuit level RCB device.
As a alteration to the electrical installation it would also need to be undertaken by a suitably qualified person. and  a Minor works certificate issued.

Failure to have a certificate could result in default on your home insurance.

Look for a NICEIC approved electrician who should be able to complete the works within a hour or two.


Is it normal to install (pvc) decking like hardwood flooring?

Edit 2: Turns out that this product is PVC plastic, and uses a HIDfast hidden fastening system Fastener System,  Azek decking product installation videos.  The product is also tongue and groove.  Sounds like the contractor did a good job.

I would not build a deck that way for a couple of reasons.
First, decks should have some space between the boards for drainage.  Otherwise water pools, accelerates rotting of the wood and makes the deck slippery.
Second is expansion.  Given that outdoor boards are alternately soaked and baked, there is significant shrinking and expanding of the boards (another reason for gaps).  That will be most pronounced in the width of the board versus the thickness. As the board expands it pulls out the nail.  If the nail is pounded into the edge it will pull out more since there is more expansion in that direction compared to a vertical nail.
Screws don't pull out at all, and that's their principle advantage and why I always screw down deckboards. Nails are preferred by many, but I haven't seen them nailed into the edge, and I think it's for good reason.
Edit: if it's a composite as others have suggested, everything I just wrote is a waste of pixels.  Unread it.


Cooktop wiring (stranded alu + copper) w/ downdraft

Aluminum that was used 15 years ago is not a problem (old AA-1350 Alloy vs new AA-8000), but those wire connectors aren't listed for aluminum. Most twist on connectors for aluminum won't properly accept that size of wire, typically you need a set screw style connector.


Options for a 0-10V dimmer on a 3-way, in a basement

There are at least 4 different ways to dim mains AC powered lights (i.e., anything from 110V - 480V):

Modification of the mains power fed to the lights

This is what typical residential applications use. It is cheap because of mass production (i.e., almost any home or office can use it) and easy because it generally involves "switch replacement" so that it can go "anywhere", even in circuits that were not originally set up for a dimmer.
However, it is not necessarily the most efficient way of doing things and often incompatible with LED lighting. Essentially, LED lights are so efficient and so different from incandescent lights, that they will suck up the power when they can and give you light (sometimes flashing) instead of dimming, unless the LED light and the dimmer are designed to be compatible with each other.

Wireless remote control within each bulb or fixture

An example of these is Philips Hue:

They seem expensive, until you realize that each one essentially includes a microcomputer, WiFi receiver and lots of other good stuff. If you want to just "screw in new bulbs and dim from your phone or Alexa", this is the easiest solution. However, this doesn't give you "dim from your wall switch".

Low-voltage lights with power line dimming

This is actually a very efficient way to do things. LEDs are low-voltage devices anyway, so converting from high voltage (mains) to low voltage (typically 12V - 24V) means that the LED lights don't have to do that conversion, which is more efficient and lower cost (though the cost savings isn't always so apparent as mass production of mains-powered LED lights lowers the cost there for different reasons).

High-voltage lights with a separate low-voltage signal for dimming

This is what you have with the RAB lights. It is very efficient because you just use a tiny bit of power to control the dimming and don't need fancy electronics on the switches or in the power modules of the fixtures. There is electronics needed in the fixtures but, designed well, those can be much more efficient than dimming via the primary input power.
This type of signalling has a huge advantage in certain applications. In particular, it allows for remote control of different types of lights (incandescent, LED, etc.) and the dimmer does not have to be sized to handle the full power of the lights. Residential dimmer switches will often have a limit of 600W or similar, less than even a standard 15A circuit - i.e., you might have (in the old incandescent days at least) a large room with lots of lights on one circuit and find you can't even install an ordinary dimmer because the lights use too much power! With dimming through a separate low-voltage path, this problem goes away.
Important: This type of dimming uses separate wires from the actual power for the lights. Which means:

You will need to run a separate set of wires for dimming
If you are using conduit, those wires might have to be in a separate conduit (or outside conduit) as you generally can't mix high & low voltage wires. (Exception if all the low voltage stuff is rated to exist around high voltage. It gets complicated. Separate is easiest.)
The good news: As noted by Harper, the dimmer does not have to be in the same place as the main switches. So, for example, if you have the main 3-way switches by the doors (as is normal, and to a certain degree required by code), you could have the dimmer at a workbench or other convenient location.

But the end result is you got lights that are not typically used in residential applications, which is why the dimmer switches are expensive.


Why did my oven light stop working after cleaning the oven?

The self cleaning cycle heats the oven up to 900-1000°F so if it worked before it may be that some damage was caused during the cycle either to the socket or to the switch.  Try putting a multimeter on the socket to see if you have power, then click the switch and test again.  If there is no power during either test then it is probably the switch.


How can I disconnect rusted tail piece mount from popup flange?

You need a spud wrench to hold the upper drain flange (which is threaded to the lower drain assembly) so you can unscrew the drain from the flange.
Cheap ones (which are hard to hold) look like this:

Good ones (which are easy to hold with a large wrench) look like this:

And like it or not, you need a helper to either hold from above or turn from below whilst you are doing either.
NOTE- there are many tools colloquially called "spud wrench", these are plumbers' spud wrenches.
NOTE- I have substituted for a spud wrench in a pinch by sliding my ChannelLock plier handles down into the strainer from above, as a holding tool.
NOTE- sometimes none of this works, that's when I use a mini-hacksaw to cut relief slots around that upper drain flange and break it off.


How to size a VFD for this Antique 5 HP Motor

It can be done with a vfd? Possibly.  I would want to Meg the motor prior spending the $ for a vfd. There are also ways to do it with capacitors. And capacitors plus another 3 phase motor.
If the voltage is the same 220/240v it would be 1.732 (square root of 3) plus the vfd losses (we don’t make 3 phase without losses)
by code you would need to use the book value 3 phase 15.2 amps that x 1.732 = 26.32  and the book value for a 5 Hp 230v single phase is 28 amps so those work out close by the time you add some for the vfd.
So yes it can be done. Yes I have done it.
Yaskawa drives can be purchased from automation direct by the general public
although inexpensive have been good drives.
You might get some sticker shock when you find out you should use a heavy duty 5 or a general purpose 7.5 rated drive.
As for a soft start, don’t plan on doing two much with this old motor, the windings are not insulated for doing two much and you may find the bearings start disintegrating after a short time, this was a big problem in the 70’s & 80’s with VFD’s running anything other than 60 hz.
I mentioned having the motor megged at the start. Before spending anything I would want to check all 3 phases to ground and verify a minimum of 10k at 1000v
Higher is better, then a simple ohm test a-b a-c b-c all 3 resistances should be similar. If the motor megs low I might heat it to 140f or so for 24 hours and see if the values increase but don’t try below 10 meg @1000 or the overloads if set properly will probably kick out in 10 to 30 seconds depending on the class of overload used in the vfd (10 is normal for most equipment like this).
So yes it can be done, however you may find a 5 Hp 240 single phase motor is less expensive.


If you are interested in the science behind your question, the answer lies hidden in your question.  You mentioned "is the extra 1/4 inch really needed".

As do most people, you translated this in your mind to "I know how little stiffness there is in a wimpy piece of 1/4 inch plywood, so how could it really make any difference".

The stiffness of a piece of material is only determined by simple addition in a case where the two layers are free to slide against each other.  If just laid one on top of the other with no connection between them, two 1/4 inch thick pieces of plywood form a combination that is merely twice as stiff.

In the more common case of well attached or glued layers (or in this case just a thicker single sheet of plywood), doubling the thickness of a sheet MUCH more than doubles its stiffness.  The 3/4 plywood is more than twice as stiff as 1/2" plywood.


BLO is a good stand-alone finish for things that won't get wet.  That is to say that many people like the way it looks on it's own...but it does not provide any significant protection against moisture.

For instance, it would be terrible as a stand-alone finish for an eating table or a side table in a TV watching area.

Very nice though for something like a TV stand, or a rocking chair or a picture frame.

Be sure to read up about fires from drying BLO rags.  BLO is unique in its ability to create enough heat while "curing" to light itself on fire.  Many garage fires have been started in this way.  As long as you handle the used rags properly, no problems.  Just tossing it into a trash can in your shop along with wood and sawdust...not so good.


Should I leave a treeline to mitigate flooding in my backyard?

Poison ivy

To get rid of the poison ivy, 1-2x/year spray all the (undesired) broadleaf ground cover in the area with 2,4-D herbicide according to instructions.  2,4-D only harms broadleaf plants, so overspray won't hurt your lawn. It won't hurt established trees (unless you use way too much).  It is a very old, trusted and well-proven herbicide that hasn't had troubles like Roundup has. Buy it pre-diluted (pink) not farm-grade (deep, opaque crimson) because the latter is strong enough acid to blind you.  keep it away from areas you plan to garden/eat becuase organic is better :)

Flood water

This question can only be answered with a deep understanding of the lay of the land.  This is engineering - not particularly hard engineering, well within the reach of a serious "jack of all trades" - but it answers the question so conclusively that it's the only science you need on the subject.

Note that "swift moving water" type floods, like you get on hillsides, are very different in nature than "water slowly rising" type floods like you see in Houston or the Mississippi River valley, and I assume you are talking about the latter.

Water will very reliably seek level.  So if you know the comparative altitudes of each part of your property, you can predict where the water will go at different flood stages. Very likely the city has that information.  The insurance company also clearly has some data, or they wouldn't have written flood insurance, and you wouldnt have gotten a mortgage.

The number you will typically see on maps is "feet above mean sea level".  And a contour map will show lines across the property, each lone is at a certain altitude.  Suppose you have a 25' contour line at the base of your property, and if you're lucky the map has them every 1'.  There'll be a 26' contour line a few feet up your yard, then a 27' line, etc. etc.

If water rises to 25', everything below the 25' contour line will be flooded.  If it rises to 26', then the area between the 25' and 26' lines get flooded.  Etc.

If you can get a contour map and look at it, then walk around your property,  it will make a lot more sense.  So talk to City Hall or your county GIS department, i.e. The guys who do the tax maps, and see if they'll print you one out for a few bucks.


Reducing 1 1/2" conduit to 1/2" liquid tight

I've only seen liquid tight with threaded connections, like this:

So basically you need to go from 1 1/2" to 1/2" threaded.

There are reducing bushings, like this:

Finding 1 1/2" to 1/2" seems to be difficult (that's a big drop) -- but they do exist (I can find them in catalogs, just can't find an actual picture).

If you can get a 1" or 3/4" to 1/2" (much more likely) then you just also need a reducing bushing (or two) to go from 1 1/2" to that size:

Another way to make the connection is to use a 1/2" female adapter on the end of a short piece of PVC pipe:

Again, you'd have to use bushings to get from the 1 1/2" box to the 1/2" PVC pipe.

Be sure to use PVC cement to make the connections and keep it water-tight.


Why is my emergency generator hard to pull for starting?

Mine is doing the same. I fully disassembled after checking the easy stuff. The decompression lobe on the cam is no longer functioning. Mine needs a cam.


This is fine as long as you maintain clearspace
There is nothing wrong with framing a non-structural "bump out" to house a flushmount panel as long as you don't introduce foreign (i.e. non-electrical, such as HVAC or plumbing) systems directly above the panel or create a situation that violates the 30" by 36" (fridge sized) clearspace that needs to be present in front of the panel so that it can be serviced.


Cutting off electrical supply to replace consumer unit

That is the supply fuse you cannot touch that. It is under the control of the Distribution Network Operator (DNO). It is a legal offence to touch it and it will have steel twist tags on it that have a stamped number on it which is recorded with the DNO so they know if it has been tampered. However after it should be the supply meters and then it should go to an isolator. You are supposed to turn off the isolators and and you can modify the installation after that point. However changing a CU is notifiable work in the U.K it is not something you are supposed to do yourself without being a competent Electrician.


A repeatedly tripping breaker means that you have a fault somewhere, and the breaker is protecting your house from potentially burning to the ground by tripping. Stop resetting the breaker and call an electrician.

If you think that the lighting breaker is causing the problem, then definitely leave that one off. But if your main breaker trips again, I recommend just leaving all the power off until an electrician can inspect.


Are garage door locks that cannot be opened from the outside available?

if you really only need to be able to operate this from inside the garage door, a simple sliding lock may fit the bill.

(source: prodoorparts.com)
they install on the door and the bar slides into a hole on the garage door track.


You could install a trim board, but that doesn't adequately address water drainage. You'll end up with water behind it, rotting out your sill.

I would do your stucco/parge coat, then install color-coordinating Z-flashing over the sill plates. The flashing should be inserted behind the siding channel (and any housewrap or other flashing), so you may need a custom bend to accommodate your dimensions. It should lap onto your stucco a reasonable distance (say an inch). Ideally it will terminate with a hem for stiffness and a finished appearance.


A spark from a power strip recently made the electricity go out is it safe to turn it back on?

I would suspect your daughters iPod charging port has shorted. It is not uncommon, and a known issue with late model 4-5 phones and pods, but heavily denied by Apple. While her room's circuit is off, unplug the iPod and power strip. Then turn the circuit on and test it out with something that is known to work well, a lamp, or if you want something to pull some current, try a blow-dryer. If everything works well, try the power strip with a lamp or something else. Finally, since your ipod is already scorched from shorting, get it replaced under warranty, or not if water was the cause of the shorting (good chance of this, ask your daughter.).

Source: verizon wireless forums(iPhones and iPods are very similar) and http://www.yourgadgetguide.net/my-iphone-5-caught-fire-why-apple/


How can you reverse a sliding glass door?

With andersen the task of swapping sides is possible with a little work. What has to happen is all the holes for the handle, lock and latch has to be drilled into the opposite side. The most intricate will be the channel that houses the latch. I cut that by using a large drill bit and making several holes then taking a dremel tool to finish. Finally you will need to plug the original holes with some kind of silicone or calking. I used white so it blends in.

Then all you have to do is move the stationary door over and cut a new hole for the latch.  ( I did not have to do this step because all I was trying to do is replace a broken opp door with one I found online, that happened to be the wrong side. )


How do I install a bathroom exhaust fan?

The three pairs of wires correspond to the three functions. You should be able to find labels or a note in the manual explaining which is which, but for now I'll assume:

black/white: main light
red/white: fan
blue/white: night light

The green wire is a ground wire.

How you wire this up depends on what you have available. A 3-way switch will not help you here; you need multiple switches, and for that to work you may need more wires between your switch box and your fan/light fixture. Most likely, you will have a single cable (with a black, white, and bare ground wire) running to your fan. In that case, you can wire it up as follows:

bond the bare ground wire with fixture green ground wire
bond the supply white (neutral) with all fixture whites
bond the supply black (hot) with the fixture black, red, and blue

That assembly will work, but it's not ideal as your fan, light, and night light will all turn on/off from a single switch.

A better version would be to have two switched wires running up to the fan. You can do this either by adding another 2-conductor cable (such as 14/2WG) running up to the fixture, or you can use a 3-conductor cable (e.g. 14/3WG) where there is a single neutral (white) and two switched hots (black and red). Assuming you have the 3-wire cable, your setup would be:

bond the bare ground wire with fixture green ground wire
bond the supply white (neutral) with all fixture whites
bond the supply black (hot 1) with the fixture black and blue (lights)
bond the supply red (hot 2) with the fixture red (fan)

This allows you to control the fan and light separately with your two switches, but again has the shortcoming that the nightlight is only powered when the light switch is on. Which probably defeats the purpose!

And that leaves the final, best option: two switched hots as above, plus an unswitched hot power supply wire (let's call it black-unswitched). In this setup, you'll

bond the bare ground wire with fixture green ground wire
bond the supply white (neutral) with all fixture whites
bond the black-unswitched supply with the blue (nightlight)
bond the supply black (hot 1) with the fixture black (main light)
bond the supply red (hot 2) with the fixture red (fan)

This setup is ideal because you have switches to control your fan and light separately, and you have constant power to supply the night light. That means your fixture can use the unswitched power to run the nightlight constantly, and when you come in and turn on the main light, the nightlight either turns off or just becomes irrelevant.

As you can see, you have a few reasonable options for how to wire this fixture. Another variation is that you might have unswitched power in the fixture area, and only one cable running to your switch box. If that is the case, you'll be using the cable to the switch to both send power to the switch and receive power back when the switch is on. If you have that sort of set up, you could provide constant power to the nightlight even if you have a single switch controlling the fan and light together. You'll need to make a couple more junctions in/near the fixture in this case, involving the switch.

Note: a 3-way switch will not be helpful. A 3-way switch has three wires (call them A,B,C) and allows you to switch between connecting A+B or A+C. Two 3-way switches can be used together to allow switching a light from two locations. But as long as you have a switch with only two positions, you can only choose between on and off, not off, on-fan, on-light, and on-fan+light. For that you need two switches, or some sort of switch designed to control two separate fixtures.

Final cautionary note: To do this right, you will need some basic electrical knowledge, including how to properly connect wires with wire nuts and how to work on a fixture safely. If you aren't familiar with this sort of electrical work, you should get someone who is (experienced DIYer or pro) to work with you. Improper electrical work has a massive risk of hurting you, either while you're trying to install it or later on when a failure can put you at risk of fire. Good luck and be safe!


Move heat out of living room with fireplace

We had the same situation in my son's home in upstate New York. He had a wood-burning stove and needed to distribute the heat more evenly throughout the house. We installed room-to-room quiet low-speed circulating fans high in the walls between rooms. They could possibly be installed in your louvered transoms or next to them.
His home was all one level which yours is not so you may need a more beefed-up circulating system to reach other levels.
However, I noticed in your pictures that you have a stairwell outside the living room area. An efficient room-to-room fan in the living room wall could move heat to the stairwell that would then rise by convection to the second level. It might be at least a partial solution for you. Below is one Panasonic in-wall fan I found that might work for you - but there are others out there.


Do I need to apply polyurethane on stained quarter round?

Urethane is a sealer and durability layer. It keeps cleaning equipment and shoes from scuffing through the surface of the stained wood and degrading appearance. It also prevents liquids from soaking in and staining. Whether you do it is up to you, but I've never seen un-sealed wood installed as base trim.


Install outlet above fire place in 70's era stone wall

To me that looks like the exterior wall.
Notice the expanded metal and the stucco pressed through.
I don’t think that I would be drilling through that. Have someone go outside and you tap on the wall I bet they can find the spot proving it is the exterior. That is some what unusual but I would at least check that before going further.


How do I replace a strip light with wiring that doesn't match the old light?

If I understand this situation correctly, both red cables are Positive and carry the current from switches. You may want to check both red cables if they really correspond to these 2 switches. If so, I guess You need to choose which circuit (1st red + N + E or 2nd red + N + E) You want to use, cuz I guess You will be using just 1 switch/dimmer (as Your 'new' light needs only 1 Positive cable).
I would check (for safety meanings) red cables (if both run current while switch/dimmer is on), put 1 red to 'A', 1 negative to 'N', 1 earth to 'E' and ISOLATE remaining red cable (using some isolation tape or else). If everything goes well, 1 switch will turn Your 'new' light up and remaining switch would be obsolete.
I'm not sure about all the fixing (if it needs to be done by qualified worker), but I did something like that several times myself.


Seamless construction joints on concrete floor

I'd go for a square joint with a form. If you are using reinforcement (either as a part of the structural design for the slab or simply as an anti-crack measure), carry it through to stop any possible differential movement. That said, the concrete within two adjacent slabs poured within a relatively close period (approximately 3 days) will fuse as the cement hydrates and form a single "unit".


How to wire a condensate pump safety switch?

The correct wiring scheme for shutting down the AC completely is to break the 24v red wire (low voltage) coming from the t-stat bundle and then wire it in to the (COM) terminal of the pump. Then attach the second lead to the (RUN) terminal at the pump to the second red wire going to the control board/transformer.  The (ALARM) terminal of the pump is intended to attach an audible alarm device that would be tied into the red low voltage t-stat wire. The previous wiring scheme will also work but only shuts down the outside unit's compressor, however the fan will continue to run.


Can I use silicone lubricant on oven door hinges?

Sprayon has a food grade lubricant that should function for what you need.

Listing for this particular brand start around $11 for a can


A separate electricity counter exclusively for heating the basement?

"Is there a way?  It's mandatory!" - Suze Orman

(That question was about prepaying your taxes throughout the year).

This question is about how to meter what are commons loads, electric loads which serve not one single tenant, but all of them or the building itself.   Commons area loads are such as outdoor site lighting, the shared-usage washer/dryer, commons hallway and utility room heating, security system, garage gates, etc.

Most jurisdictions that have laws about this require that "commons area" loads be on separate metering from in-unit tenant loads.  This can either be on separate electric company meters paying separate bills, or on their own landlord-owned sub-metering, which yes, do exist as purchasable products.

The laws are either in the tenant protection laws, or in the building codes.  If the latter, then you may be "grandfathered" until you do serious work in that area, at which point you must comply woth modern code.

All of this is moot if you include electricity as part of the rent.  If the city nails you for a violation of these codes, most likely they would settle for you switching to that model.


Adding ventilation and insulation with limited soffits

It looks like you have a ridge vent on the left already. The ridge caps look a little more "pronounced" than if there was no ridge ventilation. If there is no ridge vent then adding one would help a bunch.

Here is a section of a page from the 2012 IRC code stating the minimum requirements for venting. There are exceptions as well that should be in there too. It states 1 sq. ft. of vent for every 150 sq. ft. of attic. I can be reduced to 300 sq. ft. if you meet the exception. I think I read it right. But confirm it for yourself.

In the case of your one vent that was covered, it may have allowed snow to blow into your attic when there were high winds, then melt and cause drywall or plaster problems later.

If you feel you need to add more ventilation beyond the ridge vents, a continuous soffit vent will fit in that soffit space, it would be really labor intensive, but it would offer the most free air passage. compared to 3" rounds.


I think a brass plug is an excellent choice. It is all the same threads.


Can I vent my bathroom exhaust fan into a plumbing drain vent?

You have two big issues here.

First is that you have a serious risk of venting sewer gasses into your home. This is why drain vents open above the roof line or use one-way air admittance valves. This is likely to be unpleasant and possibly unhealthy.

Second is that a drain vent is typically too small and too moist to properly vent a bathroom fan. Your fan is probably designed to use a 4" duct, and instead it's going through a 1.5" diameter pipe. And if any lint/dust gets pushed out by your fan, it risks accumulating on the sides of the vent pipe, potentially blocking the pipe and slowing both your drainage and ventilation.

Beyond those functional problems, you'll also have a pretty visible issue that anyone inspecting your attic will see. You should do this the right way: add a properly-sized duct line and a roof vent for ventilation, and re-seal your drain vent pipe.