Soldering close to Teflon tape can cause flu-like symptoms, I have worked with Teflon pipe and tubing.
When we had to heat it, to weld it or stretch it for fittings, caution was needed and had to be careful to keep it below 500f , if higher temps were needed we did the work in a fume hood and one spring there were a lot of birds outside (mud swallows) that died because of the fumes when we were welding a bunch of segments. Birds are quite susceptible to the fumes.
If outside there is normally enough air flow but a fan above the area to push or pull the vapor away is usually enough.
Especially now I would not want flu like symptoms sad some of the guys would get careless and breathe the fumes then complain the entire next day. So use caution plenty of fresh air and you should be fine.
I usually wrap a wet towel around areas I want to prevent heat transfer to.
.....


Header requirements for basement egress window

There are a couple of issues: 1) is the window going to be an egress window in a sleeping area? , and 2) structural concerns.

1) If the window is going to be used as an egress window, then the opening in the window must be 5.0 square feet and the width must be a minimum of 20” clear opening, the height must be a minimum 24” high and the opening must be a maximum of 44” off the floor.

If you ever put a pullout couch or bed in that basement, you’d better have a window that meets those requirements or a door that opens directly to the exterior.

If it needs to be a minimum of 20” wide, a slider will require a rough opening of about 48” wide.

2) Structurally with two floors, roof and concrete wall resting on your new header, you’ll need at least 4 - 2x6 header on 1 - 2x6 trimmer at each end for a 4’ wide window, unless you have a point load above it (large post), refrigerator, or waterbeds. If you stay with your 3’ wide opening, you could use 3 - 2x6’s.


Is there a maximum length requirement for 3/4" liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit type-B?

You can install Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit (LFNC) in lengths longer than 6' (1.8m), but only if it is securely fastened at intervals less than 3' (900 mm), and within 12" (300 mm) of boxes and fittings.

Update.
Turns out that if you're following NEC 2011, 680.42(A)(1) limits you to 6' of LFNC for hot tubs. The 2014 version of the code, seems to have removed that restriction.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods
Article 356 Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit: Type LFNC
356.10 Uses Permitted. LFNC shall be permitted to be used in exposed or concealed locations for the following purposes:
(5) Type LFNC-B shall be permitted to be installed in lengths longer than 1.8 m (6 ft) where secured in accordance with 356.30.
356.30 Securing and Supporting. Type LFNC-B shall be securely fastened and supported in accordance with one of the following:
(1) Where installed in lengths exceeding 1.8 m (6 ft), the conduit shall be securely fastened at intervals not exceeding 900 mm (3 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) on each side of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting.
National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 6 Special Equipment
Article 680 Swimming Pools, Fountains and Similar Installations
680.42 Outdoor Installations. A spa or hot tub installed outdoors shall comply with the provisions of Parts I and II of this article, except as permitted in 680.42(A) and (B), that would otherwise apply to pools installed outdoors.
(A) Flexible Connections. Listed packaged spa or hot tub equipment assemblies or self-contained spas or hot tubs utilizing a factory-installed or assembled control panel or panelboard shall be permitted to use flexible connections as covered in 680.42(A)(1) and (A)(2).
(1) Flexible Conduit. Liquidtight flexible metal conduit or liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit shall be permitted.

National Electrical Code 2011
Chapter 6 Special Equipment
Article 680 Swimming Pools, Fountains and Similar Installations
680.42 Outdoor Installations.
(A) Flexible Connections.
(1) Flexible Conduit. Liquidtight flexible metal conduit or liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit shall be permitted in lengths of not more than 1.8 m (6 ft) external to the spa or hot tub enclosure in addition to the length needed within the enclosure to make the electrical connection.


What is the port with the red cap for on my generator?

The red cap is for the oil too. I'm guessing it allows for a funnel to be used and that's the preferred place to add the oil.

The oil type is either 5W - 30 or 10 - 30. And the spark plug is standard I'm guessing based on a Home Depot run and internet search.


How can I make my side-by-side refrigerator's freezer colder?

Measure Properly
Measuring after the door has been open - even for a minute - isn't a fair test.
Put the thermometer in the middle of the freezer. Leave the doors closed for a while - I suggest at least an hour - to let the system recover.   Then open and read the temperature. You should get close to 0 F (definitely under 10) in the freezer and between 32 and 40 in the refrigerator.
If the unit is installed correctly - indoors in a climate controlled space (60-75 F) and the temperature is out of spec, then:
Contact the Manufacturer
The unit might actually be defective. Let them do the troubleshooting and send a (no charge) on site technician to check it out. The key is "brand new" - a gasket, compressor, thermostat or other problem is the manufacturer's problem. If it breaks after warranty then DIY will try to help.


Is there just the one socker? If not, do the others work? And are you sure they are for the antenna? There isn't a Foxtel box lurking on the side of the house? It's unfortunately pretty common when getting a Foxtel connection to abandon the antenna based system.

You can also visually inspect the mast from the ground to see that the cable does actually go up to the antenna. If there appears to be a box on the mast, then you probably have a mast-head amp; I'd then go looking for it's power supply (it should be plugged into one of the sockets) and check it's powered on.

Past that, you're going to need a contractor. They will have devices to look at the raw signal level (you can't trust the numbers on set-top boxes or in digital TVs, I'm afraid) and know how to trace the cable in the walls and under the house, looking for splitters and such that may be faulty or bypassed.


What would cause all my dimmers to dim less?

Virtually all new dimmer switches are "smart" switches.  They contain tiny computer chips that control the dimming functions, and most smart switches have internal "parameters" that can be set with values to define things like minimum and maximum brightness, dimming speed, brightness step levels, etc.  These switches often allow the user to change the parameters by holding the switch buttons down and tapping or clicking following a certain pattern.

For some reason I've found that certain people have a knack for messing up these switches - perhaps someone is holding down the dimmer button instead of clicking the paddle.  It's incomprehensible to me how they manage to stumble into the pattern to mess up the parameters.  And it's pretty much impossible to guess how to undo the damage without proper documentation.  You'll need to read the manual for your specific switches to understand the different parameters and settings, and how to restore them.

You may find it easier to perform a "factory reset" on the switches, but be warned this could cause a home automation controller to forget the configuration for the switch.  Then you'll find your lighting problems have suddenly become computer problems, and that's even less fun.

If they are part of a home automation system like Z-Wave or Iris, the parameters can be easily set and reset by the installer using the system controller and a computer.

As you read through the manual, look to see there is a parameter like "disable changing parameters from the switch".  If so, I recommend setting it to avoid accidental repeats of this problem in the future.


How to fix old un-suppported basement wall in house that has had added basement?

This is probably just a good comment but I would highly suspect that the old wall is providing zero support.   Just because things are connected to it does not mean that it is supporting those things.

Given that a new basement was poured there is a 99% chance that they pushed those walls up to provide load support to the entire house.   Since this was done in 1965 I am pretty sure I am correct or you would have a warped/bent floor on the edges.

The concrete that is malfunctioning on you is simply concrete breaking down because it is holding up itself.   Concrete is really bad at this.   That is why structures like parking garages require tons of rebar and meshing even though they are mainly concrete.   And even then concrete will crack and fall.   I am guessing yours has nothing internal supporting it.

My recommendation would be to fill in the void as well as possible with drainage rock and aggregate.   There are techniques you can use when adding the rock to pressurize the load for that small wall better.   But note that the load is only itself.

The other note I would make is the most concerning part of your picture is the angle of the missing dirt.   It seems that the void clearance runs into your usable foundation.   I would add enough dirt to add a size ramp to offset any wicking water to the other direction (8-12 inches higher).


There's a difference between hot/neutral AC lines in a plug, but does it matter?

In switched appliances, the appliance's on/off switch needs to be wired to the hot side of the connection.  Otherwise, you'd have current running through the device when it's powered off, just looking for an opportunity to cause a short.  For non-switched devices, I don't believe it makes a difference.


Why does my receptacle tester read open ground in my new outlet in a plastic box?

It reads open because it IS open!
A typical outlet tester, or as Harper calls it, Magic 8-ball, shows Open Ground if it can complete a circuit (i.e., current flows) between Hot & Neutral but can't complete a circuit between Hot & Ground. Since (provided things aren't messed up really bad) this indicates Hot & Neutral are both connected, the logical assumption is "Open Ground".
However, this is not a guarantee. There could be other wacky combinations of broken conductors, reversed conductors, messed up connections, etc. that could show the same light pattern. But assuming for the moment that Open Ground is correct, which is very likely the case, there are a few possibilities:

First of all, plastic has little or nothing to do with this. In fact, if you had a metal box and metal conduit then you would likely have a good ground connection even if the ground wire wasn't connected. That is because metal boxes + metal conduit can form a legitimate grounding path without any wires involved. So plastic doesn't hurt anything here, but they don't help solve the problem either.

Receptacle - Unlikely, but easy to test. Disconnect power and use a multitester to check for continuity between the ground screw and the ground hole on the receptacle. If it is good then you know the problem is not the receptacle. If it is bad, replace it.

Cable - Unlikely, but if there has been any damage to the cable then it is possible the ground wire is broken. I would (carefully) strip a little more of the outer part of the cable off to make sure the ground wire isn't pinched and barely holding on (e.g., if it got nicked when stripping the cable originally).

The other end of the cable - This is the most likely source of the problem. This could be another receptacle or could be all the way back to the panel. If it is another receptacle, see if that receptacle tests correctly. At each location, all grounds should be connected together. At the main panel, grounds & neutral are connected together.

At each location, you should have very low (or 0) voltage & very low (or 0) resistance between the ground wire and neutral wire. Similarly, you should have ~ 120V between hot & ground (same as between hot & neutral) - which is essentially what the outlet tester is testing.
There is one more interesting twist here, which might legitimately cause an "Open Ground": GFCI without ground. Because GFCI takes care of many of the same safety issues that a ground wire helps solve, it is legal in some situations to retrofit GFCI on an ungrounded circuit without running a ground wire. In those situations, any downstream receptacles are supposed to be labelled that they do not have ground. But if they weren't labelled then they would test as "Open Ground" but still be protected from ground faults.


How much weight can a light bulb socket hold?

Not a great idea.

Electrical devices are designed and approved to be used unmodified. Adding parts or using them other than as intended voids the UL listing and, more importantly, poses risks of fire or electrocution.
Attaching something to a plug in device at or near the plug runs the specific risk of shorting out the spade terminals, risking the above noted fire or electrocution.
The weight that could be supported (but shouldn't be) would depend on whether the plug in socked was inserted horizontally or vertically (hanging down), the latter being much less reliable than the former, which is also not reliable.
The actual strength of the hold is a factor of the tension created by the contact points within the wall socket itself. This is variable across brands, types of outlets, and changes over time and usage. It is impossible to predict whether a socket will hold a regular plug, let alone extra weight attached to a device that already puts a downward strain on the grip. Another reason not to do it.
Finally, plug in lamps are varied in their quality and hence their strength, again making a load prediction nigh on impossible.
Don't do it.


Is there a way to stop an external door being slammed

You are probably looking for a commercial grade door closer. One of those with a multi-stage closer mechanism can be adjusted so that the door closes gently but at the same time can keep it closed requiring some initial force to open the door. I am sure that there are many manufacturers of these closers. Here is an example picture of one.


How can I locate and eliminate mysterious water hammer related to humidifier?

Water hammer is caused when flowing water abruptly stops and the change in velocity causes the piping to shake if it's not secured properly.

Look through the pipes you have access to and make sure they're securely fastened. If not, add some more clamps to secure them.

Contact the manufacturer of your humidifier. I'm not sure of the proper terminology but see if they have a replacement for the valve that controls filling the humidifier that closes slowly. My guess is in the morning the humidifier needs to refill itself, opens up the valve and when it's done it closes the valve quickly, causing the water hammer. Might also be another issue that they may know about.

They also make water hammer arrestors. These devices get installed in the copper lines and absorb the shock to reduce or eliminate water hammer. They will eventually need to be replaced (or if they are the round ones with a rubber bladder may need to be maintained) so install them somewhere accessible. Here's a video on installing a water hammer arrestor.


Where should the ground wire connect in a new sub-panel?

You don’t say if the sub is in the same building or not. If it is in the same building, use the existing ground as separate grounding systems can create a problem in the same building. Since you are going to all the trouble to put a sub in I would bump the size a bit--10 awg only provides for 30 amps for the sub. Bump up the wire size and have some space for additional circuits later. I don’t waste time on anything less than 50 amp subs for the most part.

Bring the hot, hot, neutral and ground from your main panel to your sub and make sure the sub ground is isolated as you mentioned.


Turning off oven breaker cuts power to AC, and vice versa. Why?

I misunderstood initially:  You have 2 breakers that both turn off the both devices.  This is consistent with two wires being swapped at the panel.

That is instead of

Stove Red => Stove
Stove Black => Stove
AC Red => AC
AC Black => AC

You may have

Stove Red => Stove
Stove Black => AC
AC Red => AC
AC Black = Stove

Shut down power at the main breaker.
tag the 4 wires in question so you can put them back.  Call them AR, AB, SR, and SB for Air conditioner, Stove, red, black.
Turn the main breaker on
Turn the stove breaker on, the AC off.
Pull the stove from the wall and unplug the stove.
Measure the difference between the neutral and each of the hot wires.  If one is hot, and the other is not, then TPE's hypothesis is supported.

Fixing it.

If the above is the case,

go back to  the panel, turn the main off, remove one wire from the stove's breaker, cap it, turn the power back on.
check the stove.  If the formerly hot wire is no longer hot, then the one you disconnected was the working wire.
back to panel. Power off.  Reconnect working wire, disconnect other wire, cap it, power  on.
back to stove. Now the setup should be exactly the same as when you first did this.  (I can't think of a reason how it could be different, but I tend to make redundant checks.)

If the AC actually plugs in, you can test it the same way, just to verify that the problem is what you think it is.

When you make this set of tests, be sure the stove breaker is back off.  I think it should be that the same leg is the connected one.  That is, if SR was the connected on when you did the stove test with the AC breaker on, then AR will be the connected one with the Stove breaker off.

If this is the case, then swap the two unconnected wires.  If you use the example above, SB and AB swap.

At this point:

Turn stove breaker on, AC breaker off.
Go check stove outlet.  You should now have two hot legs.
Check AC outlet.  You should have two dead legs.
Turn stove breaker off, AC breaker on.
Stove outlet should now be dead
AC outlet should now have two hot lines.
Plug devices in. Turn both on.
Verify that both work.

Note that all of this is based on the hypothesis that two legs of the breakers were reversed.  If, at some point, you get results that are incompatible with this hypotheses, it's time to stop, pour coffee, and rethink the whole process.

Note:  When I have done tests like this, I cap the loose wire if I'm going to turn the power back on.  This is probably paranoid, but I'm clumsy and easily distracted.  I don't really want to brush a hot wire because I got distracted.

As a sanity check (One mistake was made already...) Verify that neither devices has voltage floating around on exposed metal.  (I had a stove once that tried to kill me this way.)

I am NOT a professional Electrician.  This edit was an attempt to come up with a testing process for TPE's comment.


Removing lower section of an old chimney?

Have you the faintest clue what 10 feet of chimney weighs? "reinforce here" to WHAT exactly, that's going to hold up 10 feet of bricks?

This is a bad, terrible unthinkable idea. Take it down from the top, or hire somone else to take it down from the top, or far enough from the top that you feel comfortable working on it.

Don't kill yourself, or someone else in your house, or do massive expensive damage to your house even if you somehow manage not to kill anyone.

Houses of a certain vintage sometimes have "stub chimneys" that start in the attic, with stovepipes below, but they were structurally supported from below before they were built.


If it is 15A or 20A, You can have as many 220V outlets as you want, single or double receptacle.   Except you cannot have them in certain rooms of a home.

You can use 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit, as long as there is more than one receptacle in the circuit.

So just change this  to this  and done.


How can I prevent flooding in my house when it rains heavily?

I am assuming you mean water is getting into your basement and the sidewalk connects to your foundation. My First step would be to try and seal where the sidewalk touches to foundation. There is probably a crack there where the water is getting in.  The best sealant would come in a caulk tube make sure it is flexible and made for concrete. Do not get the cheapest stuff at the store.  It may or may not work but for $10 its worth a try. A picture would help us give a better answer.


Should rain gutters be installed behind metal drip edge?

If your drip edge (and the shingle protrusion) are working properly, water will fall from that outermost point. Obviously this means that the gutter shouldn't need to slip behind the drip edge flange. In fact, in cases where the run is long and the slope requires enough drop, this isn't possible anyway without additional flashing. That's not usually necessary, especially with newer construction and a 6:12 pitch.
Start at the high end of each run with the gutter just below the drip edge flange. Slope down from there. Nothing should penetrate or result in modification of the drip edge.


After additional searching, I found that these power supplies are used for the full home audio system using similar (But not the same) wire as each speaker uses.  The system was never fully installed, so I didn't notice it before.
Currently all of the speakers and outputs of these power supplies are just left un-terminated in giant spool of wire in the utility room.   I don't believe this to be code compliant as the low voltage and high voltage wire share a single conduit.


Term for hinge that allows trapdoor to rise and move aside while remaining near-level

Here is a link to the type of hinge you are looking for lift and swing.  You should be able to find one that meets your specs.
and a link to how the type of hinge is used in as a table top.
table top usage


Just mount it to the wall with short lag bolts. 3/4" OSB is a solid mounting surface unless you soak it with water.
Since you did not specify drywall thickness, you basically want a lag bolt roughly 1/8-1/4" longer than 3/4" plus drywall thickness - so if 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2" lag bolts. Predrill for the core of the lag bolt so it's just cutting threads with its screw, not trying to crush a hole in the wall (as per normal for proper use of lag bolts.)
If mounting a supplementary board to the wall, don't fool around with 1/4-3/8" thick - that's not going to hold (nor help) much at all. Cut out the drywall to the size of your board, use at least 3/4" solid wood or plywood, and attach directly to the OSB with construction adhesive and screws equal to the board + the OSB thickness. Let the adhesive cure before mounting the TV, with lag bolts.
...sent from inside my SIP house.


The tap drill for a m3 is 2.5mm or .0984" the tap for a #6 is .1065" these are fairly close in size but the #6 is larger so there would be some thread depending on the strength needed there may be enough to do the project it would be worth a try since the fasteners are "custom". I would give taping a try to see if there will be enough thread to do the job I don't have any metric taps to measure the depth of the thread for a m3.


How can I stop this drain pipe from backing up?

The plumber you had out kind of left you hanging.  He should have put a camera down there to give you more details on what is going on.

Basically your septic tank is backing up or you have an issue with the main line.  It could be slight collapsed or pinched or have roots growing in it or whatever.

So your first step is to have someone come out with a camera to tell you what the issue is.  For something ongoing though like this I am guessing you have a pretty big job so brace for the worst.  From your symptoms I am going to guess you have an old clay main line that is broken/collapsed.  To replace this it involved a lot of jackhammering, digging and moving concrete.


How do I lower the water level in a toilet bowl

Usually water level is determined by the height of the siphon bottom. Any liquid higher than that will drain to sewer line. That's not adjustable on a toilet, as it's in the shape of the porcelain tubing cast into the stool. You should be able to kludge things to a lower lever by adding a piece of flexible tubing which goes drops further into the bowl, and the waste line than does the original porcelain. However, that's going to be problematic, as it'll be prone to clogging and make the toilet harder to clean.
Only real option is to replace the toilet with one that behaves as you want. Some extra tall toilets give more room between the seat and the water level.


how to install pre-finished hardwood floors?

Yes indeed,  prep is required and very important. First step is to renail or screw down the plywood subfloor. If you have a pneumatic frame nailer, you can use 2 1/2 inch threaded, ring nails (never use common nails), or alternately use 1 5/8 inch drywall screws. Install your nails or screws every 8 to 10 inches apart along each joist line with special attention to seams of the plywood. The importance of securing the subfloor well cannot be understated. The major cause of squeaky floors is drying or aging wood loosening around the nails, allowing them to move.

The second step is to lay a layer of building felt or rosin paper between the subfloor and new hardwood. Simply roll it out and staple it enough to hold it in place. This will assure that there is no wood on wood contact which can also result in squeaks.


Is it safe to use stain and polyurethane on a wooden trivet

Oil-based polyurethane is fairly resistant to heat (slightly more so than water-based), and it would seal well, allowing for easier cleaning and care. If you're not a terrible cook or one inclined toward flaming dishes, it should last well.

  For trivets, the enemies are heat and food or water spills. Years ago, I made some trivets for the magazine and finished them with a 50/50 mix of oil-based polyurethane and mineral spirits. Its thinner consistency allowed the finish to flow down into the nooks and crannies well (my trivets had some intricate cutouts, as you can see in the photo below). Then, the excess was easy to wipe off. It soaked in and dried quickly, and I applied several coats. Over the years, we’ve continued to use this very trivet regularly, and the finish has held up well to all sorts of hot pots and cookie sheets. I recommend it.

More info


@Jon, @Freeman, and @ThreePhaseEEl, thank you for your comments.
So the conclusion was that stainless steel is fine as long as the junction between the galvanised steel and stainless is inside the building envelope which ensures that there is never enough moisture to cause galvanic corrosion.
Galvanised fasteners are NOT allowed to be exposed externally for the building site since I am within 500m of the shoreline, although it is a protected inlet and the site is 50m above sea level.  Existing galvanised fasteners on the house which has been in place for 40 years are still rust free, so local conditions are more mild than the actual corrosion zone specified on paper.  The H3.2 CCA treated cladding requires stainless fasteners, but assumes that they will be exposed.
In my use case, the fasteners will be covered with decorative battens that are affixed with adhesive sealant then painted, so the fasteners will be protected.  They hold the cladding on, but are otherwise not structural.
Fastener Test Results
The stack-up is:

0.75mm steel framing
30mm PIR insulation
Moisture barrier
12mm of plywood cladding (non-structural)

The total thickness is 42mm and a minimum of three threads must be left exposed on the inside.  Allowing for the taper or drill point on most screws required between 65mm and 70mm total screw length.  Many of the specialty fasteners were only available up to 60mm.
The steel framing is G550 Zincalume and is 0.75mm thick.  The thickness turned out to be the major problem which was too thick for most stainless screws made for wood and too thin for self-drilling screws made for 1.5+mm metal.
Bi-metal Stainless Screws
These screws have a steel self-drilling head welded to the stainless steel screw.  These should work great, but unfortunately were not available in the 65mm length that I needed.
Wing-Tek Screws
Wing-tek screws have a drill point and small metal wings on them.  The wings drill a clearance hole in the wood and then break off once they hit the metal.  Unfortunately the 0.75mm steel was too thin for this to work consistently and sometimes the wings would go through the steel as well.  This happened on 1 out of 3 screws in my testing.
Drill-point Screws
Drill-point screws are designed to drill an interference fit and then the threads are cut into the metal.  These screws are used for structural connections.
Since I am attaching plywood cladding to the steel framing, I would ideally use these by pre-drilling the wood and then affixing the screw.
From my testing, these screws did not work since the drill point created a clearance hole and the threads were loose such that the screw could be easily moved side-to-side since it was essentially sticking out because of the foam insulation.
Doing a pull-out test by hand, I was able to move the screw back and forth a few times and then pull the screw out.  I expect that wind and thermal movement would cause these screws to back out over time.
Bremick Multi-one
Great screws, but they suffered the same problem as the drill-point screws of cutting too big of a hole before threading and also failed the pull-out test, but held better than the drill-point screws.
T17 Wood Screws
These screws have a tapered needle-point tip with a slot for cutting threads.  Instead of drill a hole, they basically peel the metal away which effectively increases the thickness of the metal. They hold tightly and are often rated for drilling into thin steel.
Needle Point Screws
Chipboard screws have a needle point and are available in stainless steel.  I tried several of these and 2 out of 3 dulled when going into the G550 steel.  If I pre-drilled, they would often snap off or bend before being fully seated.
Decking Screws
There are thousands of different types out there and I ended up finding some 5mm x 65mm coated steel screws with a T17-type tip from Optimaxx.  These have passed a 2000+ hour salt spray test and have a 20-year exterior corrosion protection.  I screwed some test samples of the screws into steel framing, removed them, and then placed them in sea water on top of a piece of the H3.2 CCA-treated cladding and allowed this to wet and dry out every day.  I have another sample with the cladding, insulation, and screw that is sitting outside in the weather.  After 3 months, neither have any corrosion on them.
The cladding screws need to have a durability of at least 15 years, so the inspector did not have any concerns.
Given no suitable alternatives, no corrosion with the tests samples, and the fact that the existing structure on the site with exposed galvanised fasteners in the same H3.2 CCA timber and has not shown any corrosion in 40 years gives me some confidence that this will work.

References

https://buildsteel.org/contractor/3-questions-ask-choosing-fasteners-cold-formed-steel-framing/ - fastener selection
https://www.buildmagazine.org.nz/index.php/articles/show/corrosion-of-fasteners - corrosion in treated timber


How can I mount a keyboard tray under my hollow desk?

There is usually some structure around the perimeter of hollow panels.  You could either:

span the distance with 3/4 material (1x3 or 4) front to back, where you could glue and screw.  You can then install the tray to the "runners".  You could miter a third piece to make it look a bit more attractive (end-grain-haters)
Span the underside with a piece of plywood glued up. Even 1/2" ply has a lot of screw holding power.  Attach tray as above.


This may be as simple as the "start" or "run" capacitor going south (because the motor starts but dies afterwards, I suspect that the run capacitor is blown).

If you are comfortable digging around in the control box for the furnace, then you should be able to find 1 or 2 large-ish capacitors.  If you have a multimeter, you can test them against the specs that are listed on the casing.  They should be within 10% of the nominal value.  If you don't have a meter, then you can still give them a physical inspection.  Occasionally, they will bulge or leak or give some other indication that they have failed.

If you find that either of them has failed, then you should be able to find a capacitor with similar specs online (or at a local HVAC supply).  It should not run you more than about $15.

Here is a link with additional info and a short video explaining more about the capacitors.


You can get lower end foggers that just need some gap to point them in for about $60-$75.  Probably less for a smaller area.  I was pricing something that would hold a full gallon of solution and do our entire basement.  Mold will be dead without having to get to it but only temporarily if the space remains too damp.
Microbalance ec3 is an awesome nontoxic mold killer for immediate relief from mold problems.  It is very temporary though and costly to keep fogging a large area.  You can also get ec3 candles that give off no scent but kill mold in a very large room if burned for at least 3 hours.  Tested by several mold remediation professionals using their own preferred labs.  It can eliminate your misery for weeks to a couple months depending on how fast the mold comes back while you work on the problem.  Slight caution with pets for the nontoxic part since they do not process plant oils as well as humans.  High enough chronic exposure can cause health issues but periodic exposure at lower levels is not a problem.  I just make sure the cats don't get in the basement until it all dissipates from the air and use the lower concentration candles or spray in the rest of the house no more than twice a week.
Concrobium is another nontoxic mold killer that works by mechanical means and stays on the surface so it will continue to kill new mold but it is not resistant to water.  It needs to dry some to be fully effective and it will dissolve back off with enough new moisture.  It is an irritant if you breathe too much but it's just a mixture of salts like baking soda and washing soda so the one time I fogged with it I just wore a basic disposable mask to reduce how much I breathed in.  Didn't have any problems beyond drying out the skin on my hands.
Long term if you don't want to be fogging every month or 2 your only solution is to dry the area out.  You'd need someone to look at the details of the space to tell where ventilation or a dehumidifier could be installed.


what should be "ideal" floor coloring in a bright area?

Like you say, brighter tiles make the room brighter (and apparently "larger"). Darker make it... darker and smaller. The "brightness" also depends on window size and orientation (relative to what direction the sun shines from) and room size.

You need to balance whatever is your taste with all these factors. The rest is subjective. Some people like darker rooms even if they're small, others prefer to make them as bright and apparently large as possible at all times.


It it doable to paste two sheets of fusuma paper on the same panel?

You can - and people do use two sheets of washi (shojigami) on a fusuma door. However, this is often because of a repair or as in your case, the remainder of a single sheet won’t fit.

The seam is almost impossible to hide because you’ll have to overlap the edges of the paper. It won’t be visible from one side but very visible from the other.

Your home center should have rolls that’ll fit most fusuma doors so if you really don’t want a seam, get a larger roll. The new synthetic washi is much more tear and UV resistant and is worth the extra money, even accounting for the special double sided tape you have to use (normal rice glue doesn’t work on synthetics).


Light fixture emits a high pitch sound with no bulb

The noise is coming from the ballast (the part which converts 120 or 240 (or whatever the local standard is) VAC to the voltage and current required for the fluorescent bulb. Given that the fixture no longer works with a new bulb, that has failed, but some portion of it is still trying to work and the high-speed electrical switching common in newer-style ballasts is making the noise.

Best bet would be to replace that ballast (they do not live forever) so the light is useful again. Or, as suggested by @John, you could remove the power to the ballast (and remove the entire fixture, if you don't plan to fix it - a cover plate would go on the ceiling electrical junction box.) A third option would be to have the light retrofitted to an LED type fixture (which uses a different "ballast" or power supply) or replace the entire fixture.


If your ductwork is in an uncontrolled environment, you truly should insulate it. This for the reasons you list - to help prevent vapor from becoming water prematurely.

While it is not necessarily a lot, any is bad since gravity pulls it right back down the pipe into the ceiling, or the fan, etc.

If your air column is smooth, the work necessary to move it is less. The goal is to get the water out, not let it stay in. If the fan is properly sized for the room and there arent many obstructions (rigid tubing, 90 degree elbows, or even wind blowing a flapper shut...) you have a recipe for success.

The insulation is just 1 more defense in avoidancehelping to promote the vapor escaping.

This site has quite a bit on it:
info on others experiences with venting


Can I hang a TV with one stud and drywall anchors?

Do not use drywall anchors to hang a TV that large on a swivel mount. If it was a mount that didn't have motion, I might say that's acceptable, but not with a swivel mount.

You will need to use wood in some form to add the necessary strength.

Plywood can be attached to the wall studs using 3-1/2" lag bolts with fender washers. To provide a clean finish, the drywall can be cutout and the opening filled with the plywood. Then tape and mud the joints. Sand the surface smooth, prime, and paint. The plywood will be barely noticeable if done right. Be sure to match the plywood thickness to the drywall thickness.

If you do not want to remove any drywall, the plywood can be mounted directly over the drywall. You will need to use at least a 4" lag bolt in this case to account for the extra depth of the drywall. The plywood can be finished with a routed edge, sanded, primed, and painted for a finished look, if desired.

A final option for a truly hidden mount would be to open the wall by removing the drywall. Then install 2"x4" crossbracing between the studs at the correct locations for your TV mount. Replace the drywall, tape and mud the joints, sand, prime, and paint. The bracing is now hidden in the wall and you can attach the mount to the bracing.


Pretty sure most purifiers work by creating ozone, so I don't think you can really avoid it. There may be some type that just pull air through a filter vs doing the thing where it uses ozone to zap the dust or whatever.


According to many unofficial manuals, it is a salt container.


Switching out old broken shaver socket for new one. Having trouble working out how to unwire the existing socket

For over a year, this "unanswered" question has had an answer and acceptance in the comments:

Looks like push-to-release connectors. So try pushing and removing the
wire at same time.... at worst you can cut the wires as next as you
can to the box and rewire the new outlet. – DDS May 19 '18 at 9:22
Turns out they were push to release connectors. Thanks for the
assistance guys. – Iain May 19 '18 at 13:08


Can I control two lamps from one pullchain?

A simple solution would be to use a surge protector outlet with master control. This would be a power strip that has one outlet labelled master, some others labeled master controlled, and some that are always on. The master outlet is monitored for when that device is consuming power, and the master controlled ones will only be on when the master device is on. These are typically used with computers, where the tower is plugged in as master, and peripherals as controlled, so that for example, speakers and monitors are only on when the computer is on as well.
So in your case, you would plug one lamp into the master outlet, and the other into one of the master controlled ones. Since your lamps are next to the bed, the power strip can be in the middle behind / underneath the bed.
Here is an example of what one of these looks like (not endorsing a particular brand, there are many different ones available). In this case, plug one lamp into the solid green, and one into the green outlines outlet. When the lamp plugged into solid green is on, the other one will turn on as well.


Why is there no hot water in the kitchen after flushing our water heater?

First thing to check is the faucet aerator.  You're probably right about kicking sediment up and clogging something, if you're lucky its just the aerator.  It'd take a big piece or a lot of sediment to completely clog a 1/2"-3/4" pipe.

If it's not the aerator, and it's just a single faucet, you have to work backwards starting with the supply lines connecting the faucet to the shut-off valve, all the way back to the water heater.


How can I build my own water aeration system for radon mitigation?

There are a variety of risks, including the risk that the system will fail to work as intended. You either punt those to let someone else design the system, or you take them on yourself when you design it.

To look at just one that you've thought of: Not growing bacteria in your water system is pretty much a matter of having clean water to start with and good sanitation when you work on the system. If your well is not contaminated, then sanitizing your water system whenever it's opened up for work should mean your system remains free of bacteria, if you don't introduce them. So, you probably need a filter (capable of excluding bacteria) on the air you'll be blowing through the packed media filter, for instance. Often, when you add up all the parts you need to do the job right, prebuilt systems don't look as expensive as they do when you haven't looked at the problem in depth; but that's not obvious until you do look into the details of the problem and solving it, reliably, completely, and without adding other problems.

If the air is not adequately filtered, you may need to add in a chlorination or other disinfection system after the filter to kill bacteria introduced in the filter.

Also - a packed media filter should reveal a few things to you in a search - it's more spraying the water over a physical medium that allows it to drip a lot than blowing bubbles. You need the booster pump because you lose all water pressure at this stage, so you pump from your well to the radon filter, and from the radon filter to your house. The thin layer of water on the media is more amenable to removing/exchanging gas than bubbles or droplets. The same type of system is often seen in waste treatment where a great deal of oxygen exchange is needed.

This from PSU extension has a pretty good discussion/description.

Here is a bit more on packed columns - you are interested in the process type called stripping or desorption.

This one is about removing VOCs and suffers a bit in translation but has good illustrations and removal of VOCs is the same basic process as removing radon.


How can I replace a board in floating wood floor?

You'd have to treat it like a hardwood floor t&g repair:

Run a circular saw down one side, staying away from seam at least
the thickness of the tongue, with depth set to board thickness.
Repeat #1 along the other side.
Connect the top and bottom cuts across the board, either with a chisel or OMT (Oscillating multi tool).
Carefully cut into corners to free the 4 border pieces, as necessary.  They may just pry out.
Trim the bottom half of the groove off. (I like to use a table saw and fence).  You should be able to wedge it in with the tongue intact, though a small bottom bevel might assist it.
Sparingly glue along edges of existing tongues and the new board edges and weight it down, as necessary.


What do you do with the toilet brush after you clean the toilet?

You rinse it in the bowl once the bowl is clean. Flush once or twice as necessary to rinse all the cleaner out.
We usually put the handle flat across the rim of the bowl (with the brush over the bowl) then put the seat down to hold it there while we let it drip dry for an hour or two (or until someone needs to go). Don't put the lid down - it'll smash the top of the brush and get the lid wet.
You can get a fancy little holder for it that sits in the corner of the bathroom, or you can keep a metal or plastic bowl under the vanity that you can store the brush in. Either of those should accept the brush still lightly damp and contain the drips (of what should be just clean water at this point), preventing them from spreading and causing damage.


Automatically catching mechanism for drop leaf table

Consider the wonderful world of the gusset. In its usual guise, it supports and strengthens a corner formed by a pair of otherwise weak members. Gussets are used in truss construction, building framing and many other locations.

In the simplest form, it's a right-triangle shape. For your application, one square side of the triangle would be hinged to the wall, with the other square side aligned with the shelf in the deployed position.

In the image above the green wall supports a yellow backing plate containing the hinge for the red/brown shelf (missing a hinge circle). The blue gusset is on a hinge visible in the top view. It's more practical in normal use to have the hinge at the top of the yellow in the drawing, but easier to draw at the bottom.

When the gusset is flush against the wall, the shelf will fall. The gusset should be either lightly spring loaded or the hinge tilted in such a way as to bias it to the open position. When the shelf is lifted, the gusset will reach the position shown in the side view, allowing the shelf to be supported.

Lifting the shelf slightly and pushing the gusset toward the stowed position begins the reversal. Once the gusset has a bit of angle to it, pressure of the shelf will assist the retraction. Wear surfaces could be protected by a plastic strip or panel on which the gusset would slide. Inexpensive poly cutting boards are handy for applications of this sort.

Piano hinges would provide reasonable strength as well as ease of alignment. The gusset need not be full depth in either direction, depending on the materials used.


AC Coolant pipe has condensation and leaks inside wall

Did the problem just start?  Is the condensation on the pipe frozen?  If so, this is an indication that the compressor is overworked (possibly low on coolant).  If you are seeing any frost, you should turn off the system before the compressor burns out and call an HVAC professional.

Insulation is wrapped around the coolant line to prevent condensation from forming and causing damage.  That insulation may have started to fail.  If so, replacing it is an easy enough job.

I reccomend you turn off the system for a little while so the coolant line can warm up.  Pull off as much of the old insulation as you can and wipe it down to remove any leftover condensation.  Then replace it with the tightest-fitting and highest R-value insulation you can find.

When re-insulating, be sure to seal all of of the crevices.  If the pipe insulation tubes have an open slit in the side, make sure you seal the slits with insulated tape.  If any copper is exposed, it is a point for condensation to form.  The coolant line should be completely covered from end to end.

I reccomend that you don't bend the pipe.  The coolant pressure is somewhat higher than your generic water supply, and if you damage/crack the line, it won't be pretty.


How can I subtly mark a height difference to prevent tripping?

That is one tricky step you have!

I suggest you install a contrastive colored riser/toe kick and nosing.  Something to alert the peripheral vision of a change in height.

The other option I would consider would be a minimalist, one-step handrail.

Really curious to see how you solve this.

Good luck!


The basic process I would use is

Find out what type of paint was used (both primer and top-coat) so that I can obtain and apply a compatible paint. If I couldn't find out, I'd try overpainting a small area in an inconspicuous position and see what happens.
Sand it flat using increasingly fine grades of sandpaper, then clean it.
Buy new paint and carefully follow the instructions on the tin. Make sure to use primer first if there are any areas of bare wood.

Worst case is probably buy paint stripper and clean it back to bare wood.


How do I wire a switch between two 24V heating only thermostats to switch between thermostats?

I think you need a (dpdt) double pole double throw switch g is the fan, and w the heat both are connected to R 24v using the common of the switch back to the furnace on one side connect thermostat w on the other g.  Do the same with the second thermostat and when you flip the switch it will change the input from one thermostat to the other. Trying to make it clearer Many switches will have the marking NC and NO and common. Stat 1 to NC contacts and stat 2 to NO contacts and the common goes back to the furnace.


Debris from Roof causing Gutters to clog

It is generally advisable to not have tree branches making contact with your house, so regardless you might want to consider trimming the branches back.  Removing the tree entirely is probably overkill but is an option.  Make sure to check with your local jurisdiction to see if a permit is required.

Alternatively, you're just going to need to clean them out regularly, especially in the spring and fall.

Even with gutter guards, debris will still find its way into the gutters, albeit it at a slower rate.


Would building a partial raised wall for a pond in this way be strong enough?

1 Cubic foot of water equals 62.48 pounds - the trick here is calculating the lateral pressure, but doing a little googling I found the following formula:

R =(62.4)(L)(H squared)/2  (R = pounds force)

The force water exerts is equal both sideways as vertically, so using this calculation we can determine the force that will be exerted against the wall at its lowest exposed point by using the long width of the pond as L and 13" (call it 1.1)

62.4*30*(1.1 ^ 2) all over 2 = approximately 1,133 pounds over 1 square foot of lateral force at ground level, which translates to a pretty measly 7.865 pounds per square inch (1,133/12/12). (If my math is right, and I think it is a TAD low because if you imagine a column of water 1 inch square and 30' high that's 360 inches of water which is 360 cubic inches which is about a gallon and a half, and a gallon is 8 pounds (pints) ("a pint's a pound the world around")

Since your cement block is filled with gravel and rebar and you've got 1k lb concrete between the two wall layers - I'm reasonably certain that your wall strength combined is sufficient.  However, to be ABSOLUTELY certain, you should consult with a structural engineer who can do all the complex engineering calculations that go into figuring lateral, axial and compressive strength of concrete, etc...


How to join seams between hardiebacker and drywall in a corner?

Don't worry as much about the drywall mud.

As you said, fibatape #4. Do that first.
For #3, set your bead in drywall mud. Then, finish the drywall side in drywall mud and the upper side above the showerhead in drywall mud. Feather the lower portion of the bead out with thinset, just to keep everything on plane. Personally, I like to also paper tape the bead to the drywall in moist areas to prevent cracking later. That is not a requirement though, just a personal preference.

Seam #1 &#2 just finish with drywall mud & paper tape.

Looks good man, keep pushing forward.


Are there websites to manage home improvement projects?

There are products that do that

Chief Architect comes to mind, though its an install-on-your-PC program, it does all you ask.

I have its little brother Home Designer, which lets you do the design, visualization and parts lists, and gives you an upgrade credit to CA if you need more power.


Removing old paint from wood ( professional vs DIY)

What professionals use depends on the situation. A chemical stripper, in my opinion, is not the best choice for the situation depicted in your photos. However, you do mention a door in your question, and sometimes a chemical stripper would be a convenient solution for intricate detail work provided the door could be removed and laid flat on a workbench or sawhorses. The cost for a professional to strip a door would depend on several factors. I always charge enough so that if I had to replace the door entirely I would not lose money, so it would depend on how fancy the door is.

I honestly think that you would save a tremendous amount of time, mess, and energy if you removed that wood frame from the wall and got new moldings with the detail of your choice. You could stain and varnish it before nailing it up.


Chances are that this fixture was installed at the time of the home's construction. It'll likely have two crossbars that were installed across the gap between the two adjacent roof trusses or floor joists:

Removing it would require access above the ceiling, or you can attempt to cut and disassemble the unit through the hole in the ceiling. If you can release any tabs that secure the can itself to the base plate you may be able to push the can up out of the way, allowing access to the crossbars.

Be aware that there's likely blown or batt insulation above and around the can. Take precautions to not get it in your eyes or any other sensitive or delicate places.


Trying to replace a garage light switch with old wiring

Well, you're halfway there, and kudos on you for not blindly experimenting as many will tend to.  (this can lead to configurations which "work" but will kill you).

I can tell you what is definitely correct:

Green to your ground wires.
White to your actual neutral wires, and your all-white bundle appears to be both neutral and also neutral for these hot wires.  (it matters in boxes with multiple circuits).

So those are done.

Now, you need to double-check the smart-switch documentation to identify the supply-hot for the switch; this is usually black, but that's a convention, not a law.  We'll assume it's black; adjust if that's wrong.  We are going to cap off the switch's switched hot, and not use it for awhile.  Right now the objective is to get the switch itself to power up.

Since you tried black to solo-black, we can cross that one off the list.  That leaves the red-black combo, and again, kudos for not breaking up that pair. I would try that pair for supply-hot.  Cap off the remaining black wire for now.

If you have two wires on the switched-hot side of the switch, that can only be because you have 2 or more lamps, both fed from the switch.  Whereas, if you have two wires on the always-hot side of the switch, that's because you have onward power going to serve other outlets.  The second one is much, much more common.

I suspect at this point, the switch will power up.  Once you have confirmed some sort of functioning (LED lights, controls work, switch is pairable in its app, etc.), then you can with confidence hook up the switched-hot lead (presumably red) to the remaining unused wire(s).

The only thing that's odd about this - not wrong, but OCD-inducing - is that apparently the cable to the lamp is a /3 cable, with black used as switched-hot and red used as always-hot.  Most people prefer it the other way 'round, because then, colors mean something.  Code allows it either way.


Metal junction box shows 5V relative to ground when circuit powered. Why?

This sounds like a capacitive coupling issue -- the electric field radiated by the wires can and will couple to nearby metal objects, and a voltage-detector or high-impedance multimeter will pick it up.  If you can get a multimeter with a low-impedance (LoZ) voltage range, then that can be used to discriminate between capacitively coupled "phantom" voltages and voltage sources that have some "oomph" behind them.


Which wire is the ground in this light box?

Here's my best guess at the wiring based on the photo. Looks like you've got one hot/neutral coming into the box from the panel (or another switch/outlet), and you've got 2 hot/neutrals going out of the box to other switches/outlets.  Since these are all joined together, it doesn't really matter which one is coming in and which two are going out.

Then it looks you you have a white wire connected to the bundle of hot wires, and that white is going out of the box to the switch, and then a black wire returning from the switch, which goes to your lamp. This is pretty common, but that white wire should probably be marked at both ends to indicate that it's actually a hot.

Based on what I can see in the picture, you do not have a ground wire. It's possible that the box itself is grounded, either with a ground wire screwed to it that's  not visible in the photo or by metal conduit, but based on the yellowed insulation of the white wires, my guess is that your house is old enough that no ground was required at the time, so there is not ground wire.

Update based on your close-up picture, there are ground wires, they are sort of terminated to the box on the strain relief clamps. If you have enough slack, it would be good to wirenut them all together securely with one pigtail that goes to the box and one to your lamp. Otherwise, make sure they are all securely fastened to the box, only one of them (the one that leads back to the panel) is a "real" ground, the others are providing ground for downstream lights/outlets, so  make sure that all all them are securely fastened.


Two electrical questions: Tripping GFCI, and unlocatable GFCI

Get the freezer off GFCI.  It should not be on a GFCI outlet; it's not that type of load.  It has a metal frame with all the electrical bits in an impossible-to-access location, and you're not likely to drop it in the sink.  Fit a single receptacle off-GFCI, and label it "Freezer only".   Re-task that GFCI to a circuit where protection would be helpful.

There are at least 3 types of GFCI device: GFCI+receptacle combo devices (you know), GFCI+breaker combo devices (which look like breakers with a TEST button), and plain GFCI (which look like a GFCI+receptacle with sockets missing).  All of them can protect a downline load.  I'm glad you know that.  Do not fit GFCI receptacles at locations already protected by GFCI. Do fit "GFCI Protected" stickers at those locations right before the inspector comes.

You're right, the downside to using receptacles/deadfronts to protect downline locations is it can be the devil to find the receptacle! Keep looking; it must be somewhere.  It's also remotely possible that pulling a heavy load on the circuit has made a wire connection at a receptacle fail, typically a backstab connection. Those are very annoying to find.

15A receptacles are internally certified for 20A through-current, so 15A receptacles can be used on 20A circuits.  A 20A GFCI receptacle might just be that.  However, if the 20A GFCI has the "T" shaped neutral like the above pic, then it must not be used on a 15A circuit.

When an appliance trips a GFCI, that means the appliance has a ground fault. That's what GFCIs do. That's their one job.   It's amazing how people are in denial about that.  It's like if you taught them to detect steel with a magnet, and they try their toaster and it sticks, and they're all like "No way, this CAN'T be metal, there MUST be something wrong with my magnet!" And they try 3 more magnets and you're like dude...

That's how people are with GFCI trips.

You've performed due diligence; you tried it on other GFCIs. The answer is conclusive.  The pool pump is a human-safety device (electrical drownings) so a ground fault is 110% unacceptable, and they also have a tendency for ground faults, so it's not a surprise.  You can try a bench overhaul, but most likely into the trash it goes.  For the freezer, it's faulting too and that's common, but no way. We're not throwing away freezers for that, because it's not a threat to anyone and a lot of brand new freezers trip GFCIs. Nature of the beast. Just make sure it's solidly grounded and call it a day.  The inspector won't like it if it's a general-use receptacle; but he's unlikely to flag a dedicated freezer-only receptacle because he knows the score.


How can I transition between these floors at differing levels?

Usual practice is to bridge the gap with a slightly raised threshold board, sloped on one of both sides, rabbeted underneath to account for the higher floor. I have two such in sight right now.


How do I re-attach my kitchen cabinet's laminate?

I had a similar issue happen with my dishwasher and counter top laminate.  What I ended up doing is peeling it back a bit more to give me access, and picked up some laminate/veneer cement (it is similar to rubber cement).  You apply to both the laminate and the substrate, let it dry for 15 minutes (until it is no longer glossy) then push the two pieces together.  In my case, I was able to line the underside of the countertop with a sheet of poly, which has kept the steam from the dishwasher from working its way up through the particle board substrate.


How to anchor coat hooks and shelving in a rock-lath & plaster wall?

Use a neodymium magnet to find studs, they're available online (e.g., Amazon). Some can hold up over 100lbs. They will find your studs. I would not use regular anchors, even though there is sheetrock behind your plaster (that's what sheetrock was invented for: replacing lathe, not plaster. Plaster gave way to a thin coat of joint compound and finally nothing but tape). European countries still plaster drywall (blueboard) as the standard.

You may find the magnets themselves can hold up what you want. Great for hanging pictures as well.


Can I run a plumbing vent through a wall instead of the roof?

You will need some kind of vent or the gasses will end up inside the house. In my jurisdiction tiny homes follow very similar rules to standard construction so a minimum of 1 vent will be needed. A second vent could be achieved by using an air admittance valve if allowed in your area.

I wired a mobile home not long ago and the owner had his vent on the trailing wall below the ridge. We passed electrical and I did not notice any plumbing changes so that may be an option. I would verify with your local inspector.


Sounds like your assumption that water penetrating the box is correct no need to figure out any more than that. These boxes are not made for direct burial. (Pretty amusing actually. I will be using your picture as a teaching tool.)

The conduit and wiring the box is attached to needs to be extended upward I would say a minimum of 12" above grade. It also needs to be attached to something to support it. It cannot "free-float". Perhaps you could attach it to that pressure treated post in the corner of your picture.

Extending the conduit, if it is PVC, is just a matter of gluing more conduit on to the existing. However, extending the wiring will involve pulling new wire from the last existing junction box or the panel. Wire cannot be spliced inside the conduit.

If these lights are temporary, such as holiday lighting, they can be cord connected. The receptacle needs to be GFCI protected either by a GFCI breaker or receptacle. Also, the receptacle needs to be weather resistant and tamper resistant. Finally the cover needs to be an "extra duty, in-use" cover to protect the connections while the cords are plugged in.

If these lights are permanent, (and it sounds like they are: landscape lighting and accent lighting) then a permanent wiring method should be used instead of cords. So, you could still extend the receptacle for a convenience receptacle, but you should hard-wire all the outdoor lighting.

Good,luck!


Mold in utility closet - how bad does it look?

From the photos the mold really is not that bad and there are several house hold chemicals that can kill it. Every one usually knows about bleach diluted with water. Another is hydrogen peroxide. There are products that can be purchased and sprayed on like mold be gone. I would spray it with one of the above solutions prior to removing the water heater and once it is out really clean it well.


Are there any things to consider when putting thick rubber underlayment down?

Insulate the new subfloor in the joists below to thwart any condensation issues first, as much R-value as you can get in there. Other than that no, the "underlayment approved laminate" can just sit on the underlayment & you might be able to double or triple the planned underlayment, depending on the laminate manufacturer.

However, Carpet on top of carpet Padding would really be the overall best sound deadening solution & your underlayment doesn't care whether it's penetrated with fasteners.


Check your lower blade guide.  Blade guides are either blocks or small roller bearings.  To be out that much, I suspect that someone didn't reset the guide after the last blade change, or perhaps the block has fallen out.


Looks like the mortar joint cracked, so what I would do would is remove a couple of those bricks, look closely and see if there's anything suspicious behind them.

You also might want to invite any person you might know who works in the masonry field.
And of course, if you don't know anyone, then youu might call for a free estimate regarding what's up with it. ( Having bricks removed allievates the free estimate from saying " I dunno, we're gonna have to remove a couple of bricks to see what happened behind there."

I would  believe any masonry contractor would want to look behind there as well.

If this is nothing more than a weak mortar joint, you might want to tackle this yourself with a product called Sika Bond, which is a mortar colored masonry construction adhesive
( comes in a caulking gun tube ) which is super strong. And will bond any type masonry.

Sika Bond can be found at both Lowe's and Home Depot.

Good luck


Why does my Thermo Pride oil furnace need constant restarts?

Brand probably has nothing to do with it. You'll need a service call, and should already have made one (yes, you had it serviced - but it's not behaving correctly, so you need another one.)

Clogged nozzles are a common issue, but not the only one - bad or dirty flame sensors, bad high voltage ignitors, bad control systems are all possible issues. You may need a new filter as well - if there was a lot of crud in the tank the new filter could be clogged.

If you have a power vent rather than a traditional chimney, the possible causes of abnormal shutdown increase.


Laying pavers over existing concrete patio and extending to compacted gravel base

I know it seems excessive but I would HIGHLY recommend removing the concrete. The reason is that the pavers over the concrete will not settle at all while there will be some settling of the pavers over the compacted ABC. You will end up with a very ridged area and the point where a paver sits partially on the concrete and partially off will become an ugly not to mention hazardous edge.

Body of Knowledge:
5+ years laying pavers, rock walls and sandstone patios.


Why do we fit skirting boards to collect dust?

Wikipedia

  In architecture, a baseboard (also called skirting board, skirting, mopboard, floor molding, as well as base molding) is a (generally wooden) board covering the lowest part of an interior wall. Its purpose is to cover the joint between the wall surface and the floor.

  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baseboard

The purpose of a baseboard is to easily cover the joint so that it does not have to be seen. It's much easier to finish the plaster and then tack on the board that take the time to ensure everything is flush and not get any plaster onto the board. I don't believe that they are "designed" to collect dust, that is simply a side-effect of using them.


Can I use duct tape instead of a draft hood?

Unless your hot water heater is positively vented (i.e. an exhaust blower), you need a draft hood in order to prevent back pressure in the vent line.  If you connect directly to the hot water heater without a draft hood, you are risking having the pilot light blown out by pressure in the vent (think wind) or letting exhaust gases escape into your house. It's a bit fuzzy in your picture, but it appears that the heater has attachment points for a draft hood. If that is correct, don't omit it in your venting.


The idea of pushing a brick veneer wall back onto its bearing surface is really not a good idea. Besides water will not push it off, something else did in my opinion, like wood that swelled up from the leak, but that will be minimal. I would still be more concerned about the water around the framing behind the brick. If the brick ain't fallen yet, it may not. But it may need to be taken down to repair the band joist, plate, perhaps. Then set the brick back with proper waterproofing in place so when water gets behind the facade it won't matter. FWIW, in a building science seminar I attended, the speaker Joe Lstibureck, discovered that brick allows 10 percent of the water that hits/saturates the surface to pass through its thickness to the what is a hopeful moisture barrier behind the brick, in front of the framing...


Where to put whole house sediment filters

You ask some good questions, I would ask if the filter is rated to be on the output side of the pump. I normally install filters after the pump to reduce cavitation at the pump.
I install a string filter first after the pump to dampen the pump fluctuations some filters can be damaged so a string filter or porous ceramic that can be cleaned are my first.
then to the more sensitive charcoal and other filters. Keep in mind even on a city water system that is chlorinated that string filters can still start growing things if not changed out regularly a well water system with no treatment will need more frequent changes.
The other filters are usually based on the water quality and volume. 1 home we added a mechanical water meter inline that counted gallons as the owner requested this to get maximum usage of the filters without going beyond the MFG recommendations. Depending on water quality, well vs city the filter life varies.
the last thing I have installed is a UV treatment. I would caution don’t go with the cheapest system without verifying the lamp replacement cost. Some of the less expensive systems to purchase have 2-3x the cost of replacement so in some cases a more expensive UV purchase up front can be much cheaper by year 3.


How do I protect and insulate a ceiling built against the roof?

It really depends on a lot of factors...namely your climate and how much space you have in the ceiling rafters. Ideally, you'd insulate with spray foam. That will give you the best r-value and act as a vapor barrier. You should be able to do it separate from the new roof but it may be a lot easier to just do it all at once. (It's a lot easier to toss lathe and plaster out the roof than it is to haul down bucket by bucket.


Can somebody help me understand my washing machine installation report?

Customer has no tap on the isolation valve - customer advised to get a new one

Looks like the cold water shutoff valve to which the hose is connected is missing the plastic handle. In the photo I can see the metal shank of the valve protruding upwards from the valve body, but there's no handle (like the red one on the hot water shutoff) on it so you can't really close the valve without using a tool. The plastic handle likely broke off some time in the past. You should consider having the valve replaced so that you can quickly shut water off if there's a leak.

  Tiles don't go all the way back customer advised to have flooring
  altered as there is just wood at the back which is not that stable
  for the machine.

Looking at the photo it seems that the back of the machine is sitting on a flat piece of wood while most of the machine is a bit above the floor. This might be a problem depending on the specific model of the machine, where its adjustable feet are located and whether they're sufficiently supported. You'll have to take a look into the gap underneath the machine and see if you need to fill it with something.


A NEMA 6-20 does not require a neutral. The devil is in the details. A NAMA 6-20 configuration is for a 240V, single voltage connection. If it were to have a neutral the configuration would be a dual voltage NEMA 14-20, 20A 120/240V.

If you don't need the neutral you can simply wire nut it off and leave it in the box.


painting process for outside wrought iron

If they are new, then they are not wrought iron. Wrought iron doesn't rust. Nobody has made wrought iron in almost 80 years.

I assume the rockers are made out of mild steel. There are special acrylic-based paints for outdoor steel. You have to use a metal primer.


Can I wire LED light fixtures in parallel?

Based on the Lusa Lighting Model #33000 which are sold under Hampton Bay brand #148652 (For the 3 Bulb White kit), these are not LED lights. They are straight Halogen Light Fixtures.

Each of the Light is a standard 120V Halogen Bulb in a fixture, wired with a standard 2-prong outlet plug. The kit comes with a basic 3 to 1 power strip.

If you have 4 lights, 80W / 120V = 0.667 Amps, you can just use your own power strip instead of the included one. If you have 4 kits of 3, you need up to 12 outlets. Even with 12 20W fixtures, that is still only 240W, or 240W / 120V = 2 Amps.

You could wire them in parallel, but a Power Strip already does this for you, and is safer than wiring it yourself if you are not experienced.

Otherwise see How to connect multiple light fixtures to one switch?


Rain chains at an angle from the vertical

It's going to vary with design and rainfall rate. More flow means more likelihood of spillage and drop detachment, so it depends on your personal preference. Add to that the wind around your home and it's hard to say.

Trial and error are the best approach.


Can I use a 40 lb propane tank just for my central heating?

You're question is vague and has a couple sub-questions, so let me offer a little Q&A:

Q: Are there any central heating furnaces that use propane?
A: Yes

Q: Can I convert an existing natural gas furnace to use propane?
A: Perhaps, but only with a manufactorer-approved adapter. Propane has more energy than natural gas does, so you must not just swap out the connection without checking.

Q: Can I use a high-pressure 40lb BBQ tank with central heating?
A: Most large-scale propane appliances will expect low-pressure propane, not the high-pressure that comes out of a BBQ-style tank. You may be able to get a regulator to step down the pressure.

Q: Will a 40-lb tank last a meaningful amount of time running heating for an entire house?
A: Probably not. A full 40lb tank of propane will have around 850kBTU, or around 8.5 therms. How much you use is going to vary based on all kinds of factors but the "average US home" (whatever that means) uses about 2 therms per day.


What is this yellow fluid in my sump pump?

Well, if it's from the late 80s, then it shouldn't contain any PCBs.

That liquid is probably a dielectric oil with a high viscosity. That would explain why you were thinking it's a solid. They're non-conductive mineral oils and as oil does, it displaces water.

Treat it like a motor oil spill. Here's an MSDS sheet for Shell Morlina oil which is probably similar.


Does portable band saw have fixed blade width to go with them?

Bandsaws are used for a variety of things, including making straight and curved cuts.  The width of the blade is a large factor in how sharp of a turn you can make while cutting.

Portable bandsaws really are only meant to cut straight through something.  Think of them as a saws-all for really thick stuff.  Normally, a saws-all is just for hacking something apart quickly, not for anything intricate.  I've used them for some detailed stuff, but that's not what they are really designed for.

Blade width helps determine how strong the blade is.  The wider the blade, the less deflection there would be for a stronger push against the blade and hopefully would absorb the force better.

Seeing as this is a portable saw, I would think the standard thought of the designers is "straight cuts as fast as possible."  I've seen people lean on these saws in an attempt to get them to cut faster.  This usually just leads to a slow down for a blade replacement.

I would also assume that part of the reason for the blade strength is that the designers expect the whole weight of the saw to be on the blade.  Even horizontal bandsaws have a spring or weight for counterbalance.  A normal portable bandsaw user, even an experienced one, is not going to hold the bandsaw up during use, but rather just set it on the object needing cut.  No matter how good you are, you aren't likely going to be able to hold it at the "perfect" cutting pressure for the full length of the cut.  Nor are you going to be holding the blade perfectly inline with the cut, either.

These blades are going to be abused, no matter how gently you think you are using it, so having a wider blade is a natural "go to" for a stronger blade.

If you need a narrower blade, there are places where you can get a blade made for you.  If you are going to need a Lot of these blades, you might think about making them yourself.  I've seen blades sold on a reel, so you can cut and weld them to the length you need.  This is dangerous, so it'd have to be something you really need to do.  That is, if you even really care about narrower blades.


How to compute minimum bend radious of NM wire?

The rule for nm is NEC 334.24 bends in nm and nmc shall be made so the cable will not be damaged. The radius of the curve of the inner edge of any bending during or after install shall not be less than 5 times the diameter of the cable.
The diameter is the thickest area in the direction of the bend (this is different than “fill” where the widest point of the cable is the diameter)
The difference becomes a big deal with flat and under carpet forms of nm.
NM requires the sheath to enter the box 1/4”  beyond the clamp NEC 314.17 so the sheath can not be removed until Inside the box.


Workaround for outputting HDMI audio from PC to Onkyo TX-SR506 receiver

You can get the audio out of your stereo but you cannot avoid at least one non-HDMI audio connection.

Option 1: Follow the method in the OEM Manual
Along with each HDMI input install a digital or analog audio input. Analog inputs are automatically associated with a device (DVD, DVR) but digital inputs must be associated with a device (p. 42 in manual).

This is the preferred method but requirs the most wires. Also your input device must have alternative audio outputs.

Option 2: Route audio back from the TV

Many TVs have a digital or analog speaker output. Use this as an input on your receiver. The catch here is you may not have a good way to select this input when you want it. On older receivers there was a Tape Monitor loop that would let you listent to Tape2 input while otherwise routing some other input out. It's not clear to me that your receiver is setup to do something like this. So then your TV out would have to be tied to a single HDMI input and you lose the capability of routing audio. Also you may find that there is a perceptable delay in the audio due processing by the Receiver + TV (but hopefully this won't be the case).


Is it safe to use two single-pole breakers for a 240 V circuit?

You are correct.  The issues at hand are common maintenance shutoff (to solve the problem of which you speak) and common trip (to entirely remove power from a device with a problem).

If the circuit serves a device that uses only 240V and does not supply neutral, then common maintenance shutoff will suffice.  Go to an electrical supply house that deals in your panel/breaker type, and obtain a proper, listed handle-tie.

Proper, listed handle ties can be hard to find, especially on a Sunday.  An adequate substitute for a handle-tie is a 2-pole breaker.

If the circuit serves a 120/240V device (which takes 2 hots and neutral), then common trip is mandatory.  Go to any hardware store and obtain a 2-pole breaker appropriate for your panel.

While you're at it, make sure they didn't slip you an alien breaker: a breaker not UL-listed or UL-classified for that panel.  For instance if they slipped Homeline breakers into your Siemens panel, a Siemens handle-tie won't fit those breakers, now is the time to fix that.
Also, while you're labeling, put "GFCI protected" on any outlet fed off that GFCI. That's a code requirement most people overlook, causing home inspectors to "write them up".
Why doesn't a handle-tie work for common trip? Shouldn't the tie transfer the trip motion to the other breaker(s)?  No.  Breakers are required to "trip free", meaning trip even if the handle is held in the "on" position.  (E.g. by a breaker lock meant to prevent tampering).  Common trip is provided by a special internal mechanism.


Should a rough wall be smoothed with mortar before installing tile?

Royal Pain the ars to make that wall smooth and workable.
I would remove the drywall and install 1/2"
Denshield. No need to remove the cabinets. the Denshield will give you a nice solid surface to work with.
Added benefit to this is that while the wall is open you can change the electrical box's to adjustable depth one's, once your tile is on you can adjust the box, by turning a screw, so it is the correct depth.
I would use a White mastic for your semi-translucent glass tile.


Would a bad limit switch cut power to the thermostat?

It's possible depending on how your furnace controls are wired. Sometimes the limit switch will cut the 120V power supply to the 24V transformer that powers the thermostat, sometimes it's wired to cut the 24V power from the transformer to the thermostat, but you'd need to look at the schematic for your furnace and verify that the actual wiring follows the schematic. It's possible that it's been modified.
If the limit switch was tested bad, not just guessed bad, you are going to have to bite the bullet and replace it. It may be easier to test the limit switch than to trace out all the controls.


Pulling up fiber board to install new tile flooring

should I cut the fiberboard up to the cabinets as close as possible
and butt the new cement board up to the cut and tile over it (will
that cause issue with the tile over the seam?)

As close as possible is fine,  and even an inch or so will be fine, especially for tiles that large.
The only problem i would try to avoid is having the grout seam fall on, or near, the joint/seam where the cement board meets the particle board
For under the toe kick of the cabinet you can rent a Toe-kick saw that will give you a cut very close the the cabinet.


How can I attach the sill plate to the block formation (contractor did not do it)

If you have the clearance, use a hammer drill with a masonry percussion bit to drill down through the sill plate into the concrete block.  Then use a two-part anchoring epoxy to embed galvanized bolts through the sill plate into the epoxy filled hole.  After the epoxy cures, add galvanized washer, or washer plate, bolt, and tighten down.
You also might be able to use a strap tie, that fastens to a wall stud and the foundation.  Something like this one (from Simpson):


How can I install a cable jack without a box?

You could use something like this:

Cut a hole in the sheetrock according to the template, and when you tighten the screws, the tabs tighten against the back of the sheetrock to hold in place.  You then pull the cable through and use a plate like this:


How do I install a water line to my refrigerator?

They make "taps" specifically for that purpose - you can get them at home depot/lowes or probably any plumbing store.

They clamp on to an existing water line and have a sharp pin inside.  You attach a vinyl or flexible copper line to it and run it through the floor to the fridge.  Then you crank handle on the valve down and the pin punctures the copper water line and lets water into the valve.

When I did mine, I was a bit worried it would leak at first (they just look like something that wouldn't seal well) but haven't had any problems with it for well over a year now.


Fixing Bosch SHE series insufficient fill issue? (SHE43R Series 300)

It was the fill solenoid, Bosch part #00622058.  My kids and I ran a bucket test, operating the valve into a bucket and timing flow over one minute:

Don't do this at home (ahem), note the bare wires from the scavenged extension cord: it's a 120V solenoid.

Test runs produced 5,8 and then 6 cups of water in one minute with the filter completely removed.  This explains the inconsistent behavior.  The new solenoid from the local parts store produced 12 cups in the same condition.

The hose was grotty also, and is going back to FluidMaster under Warranty:


Can I attatch my garden hose to a hose bib on the water main?

Of course trying to determine why something was done years ago is speculative. My guess would be that the valve on the left was the original shutoff. The hose connection may have been a whole house drain. This would allow you to drain the plumbing in the event of a no heat situation or long term absence. The two yellow ball valve were likely added during a meter upgrade or when it was determined that the original shutoff did not completely stop the flow of water. My primary concern with using it would not be pressure but  the age of the valve.It looks older than the valve on the left based on handle design. It is possible that it may leak when you try to shut it off.


Your local home center(Lowes/HomeDepot) should have 12inch x 12inch concrete patio blocks  for about $2 each, even less if you find some with chipped corners. Since it is a short term project I would just lay them on the dirt following the original line. The blocks should spread the load enough that they won't sink too deep into the mud. When it's time to get your new walkway, just pick them up.


Repairing cracks in plasterboard ceiling - ok to tape over paint?

Use fibafuse tape not mesh or paper.
Option1... the best way but more work:
If the cracks are bad the proper way to do this is to take an oscillating tool preferably with a grout removal blade and cut out the crack all the way down to the lath (this will make a bit of a mesS). Make sure all loose material is removed. Then fill the crack with Durabond 90 making sure the mud mixture is thick not soupy. Push that mud into the old lath board. After it’s dried you might need to apply a second coat. Make sure surrounding  area is clean. Apply fibafuse tape with all purpose mud. Now do finishing coats.
Option 2...
Scrape off any loose paint. Clean surrounding area. Embed fibafusefuse tape NOT MESH TAPE in all purpose mud. Now do finish coats.
Your probably going to get some bubbles In your mud since this is a painted surface. It’s just going to require sanding and skim coating to fix. All purpose mud is important when embedding the tape as it has glue in it.


Round Metal Gate Fence Post is Spinning When Gate is Opened

It appears the post has a couple straps around it, one of which connects to the top bar of the fence.  Try putting a bolt or self-tapping screw through this strap into the post.  This way the post will be kept from spinning by being locked into the fence more securely.


How do I turn off my water heater drain?

It looks to me that you turn the hose drain outlet on and off using the knob highlighted below:

This knob looks to be a turn style device. Rotate one way to shut off drain and the other way to turn the drain on. The hose nib for attaching the drain hose looks like it is on the opposite side of the valve assembly as you have pictured it.

If you got the water to drain by another means, such as opening the over pressure switch, you will likely need to replace the whole valve assembly.


Where can I connect the C wire on the A/C side?

After looking closely at the images you've supplied, this is what it appears is going on in the last photo.

From what I know about HVAC systems, I would guess a broader view of the system would look something like this.

The transformer supplies power to the thermostat through the RED wire.
The BLUE wire serves as the COOL call from the thermostat.
The BLUE wire connects to the WHITE wire, which is connected to the coil of the contactor in the condensing unit.
The GREEN wire is the other side of the contactor coil.
The GREEN wire connects to the BROWN wire, which is the other side of the transformer (C).

When the thermostat calls for COOL, the BLUE wire is energized. This energizes the WHITE wire leading to the contactor, which pulls the contactor closed. The GREEN wire connects to the BROWN wire, which leads back to the transformer, thus completing the circuit.

Therefore, if you want to use the YELLOW wire as C. You should include it in the twist-on wire connector with the GREEN and BROWN wire.

You'll just want to make sure the transformer is sized properly to supply the additional current draw of the thermostat.

If it were me, I'd rewire it so that the YELLOW wire was the COOL call, and the BLUE wire was C. As that's a more common color coding.


I lived in a house 20 years ago that had your exact installation. I lived there for 24 years and had no problem with water flow or water pressure. Since I do plumbing I thought I could improve water flow, big mistake, all that time wasted. It worked fine with or without my tinkering. The sulphur smell is probably iron. Have your water tested; Home Depot and Lowes have test kits. You take a sample and send it to a company. I would also get a second opinion from a local water softner co. Also ask your neighbors if they have the same water smell and ask how they addressed it. I had to get an iron filter and a softner from Culligan. The salesman was from the same town and had a great reputation. I was well pleased.


How can one properly and tidily install this hardware for internet access?

OK, this is kind of a rambling question with a lot of details, but let me give you some leads on some of them:

Wall Plate

If you want to install a wall plate, you'll want to clean up the opening and then install a "low voltage mounting bracket", which is a square piece of plastic that frames the opening and provides a place to attach the plate:

(Wall plates come in sizes like 1-gang, 2-gang, etc., which indicates how many toggle switches or receptacles it can fit. You might want a 2-gang for that size opening and number of cables).

Then you can get a "keystone plate", which is a wall plate with small square holes in it (available in various widths and with different number of keystone holes). Here's a 1-gang, 2-keystone plate:

Finally, you get different keystone modules for the different types of cables. They snap into the holes in the plate. This lets you mix and match different connection types on the same plate. I'm not really sure what you mean by "tv type" and "telephone type", but here's a coax keystone module:

(EDIT: resist the temptation to skip the bracket and screw the plate directly to the wall. The screws will pull out of the drywall in about 2 seconds. I've seen this happen in several houses where people added coax wall plates or something, and didn't bother to do it right.)

Shelf & Mounting

As for wall-mounting options, it depends on how tidy you want to be. You could either mount a small shelf to the wall and place the electronics on that, or use your pegboard and find a way to strap the items to it.

Personally I would mount the shelf or pegboard just below the wiring plate, not on top of it. That would make it easier to mount the wall plate, and easier to make changes in the future.

Whatever you mount to the wall, make sure you attach it to the studs behind, not just screwing into the drywall.


Is there an electric tankless water heater that takes multiple electric lines as input?

Yes, most larger "whole-house" units require two or even three circuits. Problem is most of those require two or three 40, 50 or even 60 amp circuits.

You will have to do some research to find one that will supply your needs but only requires three 30A circuits. I will say, don't get your hopes up.


NEC code requirements for exterior outlet

Yes, there are

The Code cite you're after is NEC 210.52(E) (with subsections 1 and 3 being the commonly applicable ones):

  (E) Outdoor Outlets. Outdoor receptacle outlets shall be
  installed in accordance with 210.52(E)(1) through (E)(3).

  Informational Note: See 210.8(A)(3).

  (1) One-Family and Two-Family Dwellings. For a one-family dwelling and each unit of a two-family dwelling that
  is at grade level, at least one receptacle outlet readily accessible from grade and not more than 2.0 m (6 1/2 ft) above
  grade level shall be installed at the front and back of the
  dwelling.

  (2) Multifamily Dwellings. For each dwelling unit of a
  multifamily dwelling where the dwelling unit is located at grade level and provided with individual exterior
  entrance/egress, at least one receptacle outlet readily accessible from grade and not more than 2.0 m (6 1/2 ft) above grade level shall be installed.

  (3) Balconies, Decks, and Porches. Balconies, decks, and
  porches that are attached to the dwelling unit and are accessible from inside the dwelling unit shall have at least
  one receptacle outlet accessible from the balcony, deck, or
  porch. The receptacle outlet shall not be located more than
  2.0 m (6 1/2 ft) above the balcony, deck, or porch walking
  surface.

In other words, there needs to be a readily accessible receptacle not more than 6.5' above the walking level in front, in back, and for each balcony, deck, or porch you have.


They are ring-shank nails, so they are hard to pull by design.
You need a crow-bar, pry-bar, ripping bar, wrecking bar. Solid steel with the "claw" on a looped end, 2 or 3 feet long. Not a hammer. Apologize to your hammer if you haven't already wrecked it.
Preferable to leave the heads on, as it will be faster to rip them out with the bar if you don't have to put mole grips on each time, and take them off, and not impale yourself on a bunch of cut-off nails in the meantime. You can probably rip the glorified tar-paper roof off around them if you'd rather have it gone when you are removing the nails.
I have (the remains of) an Onduline roof I put on 20 years ago. I will be replacing it with metal - that was an experiment that has results I won't be repeating. The metal roofs I put on at the same time are in excellent shape.


Hot water tank cold water is always flowing

I'd try replacing the relief value that is screwed into the shut off valve to see if it solves the water flow issue. Sometimes once they are activated, they don't like to stop for varous reasons.

As for the expansion tank, it should be installed before the water heater. They are normally installed near where the water comes into the building.


Shower Light connected to bathroom ventilation fan. Does it need GFCI?

You need a fixture listed for wet locations: from the NEC.
Bathtub and shower areas. Luminaries located within the actual outside dimension of the bathtub or shower to a height of 8' vertically from the top of the bathtub or threshold of the shower shall be marked for damp locations or for wet locations were subject to shower spray. NEC 410.10.D. Since in a shower you will need a "wet location" fixture. Many call the main type of fixture used a "jelly jar" because it looks like a jar that is screwed into a fixture. There are many types that look better depending on what you want to spend.


Why does my stud finder report an AC warning over the entire wall?

The stud finder and the volt stick operate on changing electrical field strength levels, and they perform measurements by means of capacitive coupling.
It is possible that the fire & sound insulation in the parting wall is statically charged due to your or the neighbour's electrical wiring through or against the insulation. Even with circuits disconnected at the breaker, there can still be a small enough field capacitively coupled-in to trigger your devices.
With a bit of luck you may be able to reduce the sensitivity of your detector by placing a non-metallic spacer, like several sheets of paper, between the device and the wall, as you skim the wall.
Have you asked the neighbour to disconnect their power?
Alternatively, if you have outlets or wiring in that wall, you might be able to neutralize the field by grounding all conductors in the cables. This can be done by connecting a load but with the circuit power off. The load must preferably be "dumb" or "old fashioned" without control circuits, so no LED light, but a simple incandescent bulb, fan, or kettle would work.
Another trick that might work is grounding the wall itself: while grounding yourself place your hand on the wall to dissipate and keep dissipating any coupled charges. The important thing is to make sure you are well grounded, and so it depends on the flooring and your footwear.
It may be safer and more effective if you grounded the wall by placing a large and bare grounded metal object against it (e.g. pressing/leaning some HVAC sheet metal), or smaller objects at several spots on the wall. Then you have free hands and a clear path to ground without placing yourself in the circuit path. You could also ground the insulation by piercing nails or screws at several locations into it, and grounding them.


Activating a door bell inside apartment after motion sensor outside detects movement

There are 120 volt single stroke bells. These ring once when the circuit is completed.

This bell would need to be wired in parallel with the lights that the motion sensor controls. Simply add the the bell's hot lead to the black wire that carries the switched hot from the motion detector to the light (both light and bell will be connected to this wire). Then connect the bell''s neutral to the neutral feeding the light (again, both bell and light will be attached to the neutral).

When the motion sensor triggers the lights, it will also trigger the bell to ring once.

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