Refrigerator compressor for pond aeration?

I used a old refrigerator compressor as a small shop compressor decades back with an used R12 tank. it works and is fine for shop air however I probably not do this with your fish. (Today refrigerant tanks have check valves to prevent this use and it’s not the safest method to use old propane tanks because of the thin metal used and no internal coatings in most cases).
Why not? The compressor will be lubricated with mineral oil or Poe/pag oil on newer compressors and the compressor is designed to pass oil, if using any type of compressor I would suggest oil-less or at a minimum have a trap to catch the oil.
It will only take a few drops to coat the water and could be fatal to your fish, I have a small solar water pump on my pond. It has frozen solid 3 or 4 times but has continued to work when thawed I got it from harbor freight for under 30$ and it has worked well.


What type of rheostat can I use to control an LED bulb?

I don't think you can.   Get a dimmable LED and use a standard inline light dimmer.


Ceiling fan replacement, one wire is always hot

This looks super simple.  I mean normally, wire colors are a mess and don't really correspond to wire function.  But luckily, here, they correspond exactly:

White = Neutral
Black = always hot
Red = switched hot

So the switch gets black and red becuase its job is switching.  The lamp gets red and white because you don't want it on 24x7.

You join all blacks together, all whites together, all reds together (pretending the hot lead from the lamp is a red).  And you're done.

We don't know how it was hooked up before, so I can't guess why this didn't work before.  I have a feeling the old lamp was wired into always-hot (black) or the switch was miswired.

Why does the red report hot when the black is? Because I think your non-contact tester is picking up on "phantom voltage", which is a bit of capacitive coupling that can happen between wires in the same cable.  Wires left to float can do that.


Are 5" thick filters for furnace/Central AC still available?

The thicker the filter, the more area can be created within the filter by folding the filter materials into baffles. This creates a very high efficiency filter, but I don't think I've ever seen one this thick stocked in a store. I'm sure you could resize the opening for a thinner filter, but if it was my choice, I'd order the thicker ones online.

The same thing happens in other places, e.g. high efficiency toilets have a larger flapper than what is typically stocked in stores, which will make getting replacement parts a pain.


Replaced a light switch and now it’s always on. Pops if you flip the switch

It appears in this box, all the whites are actually neutral.  Splice them together, fullstop.

Now, splice the known-supply-black (hot) to one of the other blacks.  Hopefully one of two things will happen, either a lamp will light continuously, or some downline outlet that is now dead will spring back to life.  If that black wire turns a lamp on, mark it with red electrical tape, sold in 5-color packs for $4.

Now at this point all the black wires should be always-hot and all the red wire(s) should be lamps.

Go get the instructions for your dimmer.

identify which wire is ground (the green one, grounds are always and only green, yellow+green or bare). Unscrew the ground wire off your old switch and splice it to that wire.
Identify which dimmer wire is always-hot/line.  Splice that to the black wires.
Identify which dimmer wire is switched-hot or load. Splice that to the wire(s) you marked red.  A yellow or orange wire nut shoudl be about the right size,  you should own wire nuts.

Test, button it up.

Next time you do this...

You got into trouble for reasons. Learn them and don't do them again.

Don't take apart more than absolutely necessary.  The actual job involved only interacting with the two wires landed on the switch backstabs, and its ground.  All that other stuff was out-of-scope for the project.

You should have yanked the two wires out of the backstabs on the switch, (or cut them, those are pigtails, cutting pigtails is fine).  That would have given you only two wires to deal with, lots easier than six.   You would have quickly figured it out.

The usual reason we see people do this is curiosity.   Now let's pause and think about the rationality of this.   You don't know the craft. You want to know the craft, so you want to see how things are put together.  Fair enough.  But learning electrical by dismantling your house doesn't seem very efficient, does it? It's not.  Get a book.  Go to a library and pick a 2011 or newer book on home wiring that feels accessible to you, and devour it.  Learn all about grounding electrodes and receptacle tabs and switch loops and subpanels.  Don't attempt to "learn on the internet", because Google only answers questions, and you need a well-rounded primer on the field to know which questions to ask.  In other words, Google only gives you swiss cheese knowledge: you don't know what you don't know.

Having done so, you're ready to lurk around here and read answers and try to guess who the smart ones are.  A few answers might come out of you - we'll tell you if it's wrong.

Don't cut off in-wall wire length unless you absolutely have to.  That length is too precious to waste, as it can't ever be replaced without demolition work.  Cutting those wirenut/twists off was senseless.  You will simply be putting the white wires back as they were, and the black wires were already correct with a pigtail that you could've attached the dimmer to.  Shame, the splices were very well done.

It's much better to untwist that wirenut or side screw, or twist-pull a wire out of a backstab... (which wrecks the backstab, but that's alright, you'll never use a backstab.)

Of course, don't use backstabs; they have a lot of reliability problems.


Good on you for leveling up your knowledge and learning where not to drill or saw on joists. On that same note, here's an excellent summary from BuildingAdvisor titled Guide to Notching and Boring Joists:

Don’t make any holes with a diameter greater than 1/3 the depth of a joist.
No holes closer than 2 inches to the top or bottom edge.
No holes closer than 2 inches to any other hole or notch.
No notches in the middle  1/3 of the joist, but holes are permitted here.
No notches deeper than 1/6 the joist depth.
No end notches (where the joist is supported) greater than 1/4 the joist depth.
The length of a notch should not exceed 1/3 the joist depth.
Do not make square or rectangular cutouts. Also avoid square cuts in notches — angled cuts are better, as shown. Square cuts tend to start cracks.
No notches are allowed in the top of a large beam (greater than 4 in. thick), except at the ends.

  I've heard that I can glue/screw a 2x4 to the bottom of this joist to make it an upside down T shape. Will this restore enough tensile strength?

A glued and screwed 2x4 fastened to the bottom of the joist would increase the tensile strength. Enough? You shouldn't trust anyones advice on that but a structural engineer, and I'm a different type of engineer. That's not among the fixes I've seen employed in the building trades.

  Does this need to be fully-sistered (with the pipe relocated)?

That's one option. There are others.

Sister the first unaltered joist, making it a trimmer. Then, temporarily support the 2nd and 3rd improperly altered joists, cut them off on either side of your steel pipe, and run new double 2x8 joists (aka: headers) from the rim joist to your sistered trimmer. Add in the requisite joist hangers, remove your temporary supports, and you're good.
Add flitch plates to the cut joists.
Add a support beam beneath the two cut joists, near the cut. Voila, now the holes/cuts are no longer in the middle third of the span and the span is roughly half.

  How urgent is this repair?

Unless you're planning to park a fridge in that closet, this is unlikely to be urgent.
It looks like your 2x8 is wider than 1-1/2"
A modern 2x6 would suffice for your span, which is what you made your 2x8 into.
Your subfloor looks like 1", those boards will help distribute loads across joists.
The cracks are normal. No big deal. Search on "Checks and Splits in Lumber" for details.
The closet walls are unlikely to be supporting. Supporting walls are atop framing that carries loads down to footings.
Try a deflection test. Have a helper eyeball the floors deflection as you jump above the cut and uncut floor joists. Does the floor feel more squishy above the cut joists? Does it deflect more?


Which product do I use to treat garage walls that " sweat "in the winter

You don't need waterproofing, you need insulation.
Unless your garage is underground, "sweating" is actually condensation, and it's due to the walls being cooler than the air, and below the dew point.  One way to prevent it is to dry the air, but dehumidifiers consume energy (= cost money) to run, and chemical air driers cost even more over any significant time period.
The better way to prevent this problem is to ensure that the interior wall surface doesn't get below the dew point, by keeping it close to the inside air temperature -- and the way to do this is to insulate.  Reduce the rate at which heat is lost through the walls, and the warm, moist air (presumably infiltrating from the heated house) won't have a place to deposit moisture.
This isn't a super-easy DIY job, unless you're the sort who could build the garage in the first place -- but if it can be done from inside (by removing drywall) instead of from outside (removing siding, vapor barrier, etc.) it's not terribly difficult, especially if you don't mind seeing joints and nails or screws in the inside dry wall.
The inexpensive product (in my experience, which is pretty old, so check behind me on this) is "rock wool" or fiberglass insulation batting, and a recommended R value for an unheated garage is fairly low -- R-14, perhaps, to R-18 -- but if the garage is connected to the central heating, it should have been insulated when built, and the recommended values today are something like R-24 to R-32 (again, check me, I'm neither a contractor nor a young fellow and these values tend to rise with time as energy costs and environmental concerns rise).


Does this truss have two or three bearing points?

It is unlikely that a residential truss has a load bearing center point unless it was carrying another truss load and being used as a girder. That doesn't appear to be the case. It appears that the truss was too low once it spanned the high ceiling area and the clearance was elevated to create a vaulted ceiling at the top of the stairwell. That truss appears to only have two load bearing points. Trusses are also marked at the load points when manufactured. I would still call the architect to verify.


Single phase 120v to split phase 120v (240)

The single worst application for electricity is dockside.  Thousands of people die every year when a shock that might not kill them stuns them, and they drown.  Typically this can't be distinguished from regular drowning, even in an autopsy. The giveaway is that multiple people drown, often rescuers. As such, dockside power is serious business and not to be trifled with.

Keep in mind: dockside power is not "perfect except for you".  There are obsolete installations, negligent marina owners, and lots of idiot boaters who are hacking things just like this.  Some guy on the other end of the dock doing something else stupid can interact in unexpected ways with what you're doing, and blam, somebody's dead. What will your defense be? Claim he violated the electrical code?

On the other hand, transformers are a "force for good" in dockside electrical safety.  Electricity wants to get back to source, not ground, and transformers break "source" into zones.

The best way: Pay your dock to install the power you need.

This is best because of liability.  A dockside drowning will bring lawsuits, and if there's any code violations, good chance it will bring criminal charges as well.  You want these to be somebody else's problem.  You want to be doing nothing more than plugging a boat that was professionally inspected, into a dockside receptacle that was professionally installed and is owned by someone else.

The transformer approach

This is a bad idea because of the liability issue.  If you botch this or if something goes wrong, you could face civil and criminal liability.  So I would not consider it without a sign-off from both your AHJ and your insurance company; and also having a professional engineer certify it (which shouldn't be too hard).

Even if you do everything perfect and to code, someone could still be electrocuted by the idiot two docks over.  And if he can coverup his codevio, and there's your obviously homebrew/hacked together transformer setup, it won't matter if it's code-perfect, their lawyer will spin it around and put it on you.  "Preponderance of the evidence".

You are correct that you can merge two power sources using a transformer, but you shouldn't.  Because power moves both ways through a transformer, and if one side is energized, it will "light up" the other.  That can have huge impacts to safety.  For instance if they are sourced from two different panels or services, you have now biased those services against each other, creating current loops in unexpected ways.  Doing this dockside is the act of a murderous sociopath, because anything can happen with dockside power!

Then there's the ordinary problem: you would actually be backfeeding from source A to source B or vice versa,  and that's bad for exactly the same reason it's bad with generators.

What you can do, however, is use a transformer to take ONE of the 120V/30A circuits and kick it up to 240V for transmission to the boat, then have a second onboard transformer to turn the straight 240V into 120/240 split-phase for the boat proper.  A 5 KVA transformer should suffice and those go for about $100 used.  You would not be able to use all the burners on the stove at once.


LEDs in a multi-bulb fixture only dim when installed alongside a single 60W incandescent bulb

In general, dimmers have both a minimum and a maximum load. The most common reason for low loads not to dim, is that they are below the minimum for the dimmer to function. By adding more load, the dimmer begins to function properly. This is further explained by lighting manufacturer Lighting Services Inc (LSI):

  Minimum Loads

  Dimmers have minimum load requirements because if the LED load isn’t drawing enough current to keep the dimmer’s switching elements closed, the dimmer will have unpredictable behavior.  This behavior can include flickering, reduced dimming range, flashing when off, or not even working at all.

  Dimmers that are designed for incandescent loads tend to have a larger minimum load requirement because incandescent fixtures generally have higher wattages than LED fixtures.  This means that these dimmers will most likely require multiple LED fixtures to meet the minimum load requirement. Testing is necessary to determine the exact number of LED fixtures needed for each incandescent dimmer.  Dimmers that are designed for LED loads usually have a lower minimum load requirement and typically only require one or two fixtures.  The LED minimum load rating for LED load dimmers is usually given in number of lamps instead of Watts (W) or Volt Amps (VA).

According to Leviton's product page for the DW6HD-1BZ wi-fi dimmer:

  It uses the latest generation of Leviton’s dimming technology for smart lighting control for a single LED bulb in a hallway or a strand of holiday lights, ensuring LEDs do not glow when off.

Based on this, it should be possible to perform low-range dimming of low-power LED loads with this dimmer.

The instruction sheet that accompanies the dimmer refers you to a list of compatible LED and CFL bulbs on Leviton's website, a 2015 version of which I found here: http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/previewBody/4385-102-1-7048/Decora%20Rocker%20Slide%20Dimmer%20Compatibility%20Chart.pdf

Based on the Amazon product title for the bulbs you purchased, which contains the grammatically-incorrect phrase, "Light For Decorate Home", I can assume that these bulbs will not be from one of the manufacturers Leviton have tested and confirmed as compatible.

That being said, the same page lists Leviton IPL06-10Z, DSL06 and VP0SR-1LZ dimmers as compatible with those bulbs. Given that Leviton is a well-respected brand, my recommendation would be to trust their statements over those of the blb vendor/manufacturer and purchase new bulbs that Leviton lists as compatible. If you do not wish to do this, you may choose instead to contact Leviton and seek technical support based on the dimmer's inability to meet the description above.


How to I fasten this toilet flange down?

I would drill out and break out more concrete to develop a hole that would hold a new concrete plug/doughnut around the pipe, rather than the difficult pointy cone you have now.

So, drill from the flat surface you have, lots of holes, and chisel carefully between holes.

My personal experience with Tapcons and "hard concrete" is abysmal. In green (new, fresh) concrete they seem to work OK most of the time.


Is it a problem that my post bases overhang the footing edge slightly?

If I understand correctly that the post bases overhang the sides of the concrete piers slightly, it's not an issue. As you said, 6x6 posts are unnecessarily large for the load, so as long as you have the equivalent of a 4x4 resting on the concrete it's all fine.
Just use caution when drilling for the post bases so you don't spall out the corners of the concrete. Skip any fasteners that are too close to the edge and put in extras elsewhere if possible.


Advice on hanging gymnastic rings in garage rafters?

Thanks for the contribution from others in answers and comments. At the suggestion of @DMoore, I'm going to answer my own question.

After the feedback here and reading more, I've made the decision to not try to tackle this project and will be searching for other means to hang rings (a high wall mounted pull up bar or a tall squat rack) since I'm not comfortable enough in either my knowledge or skills and don't want to unnecessarily or dangerously weaken my rafters.

Thanks again for everyone's feedback and help.


Is a built-in oven easier to maintain than a standalone one?

I'm not aware of any practical difference between the two in terms of maintenance, except that servicing a built-in stove and oven might be harder because the underside and rear are not easily accessibly.

Otherwise, the only reason I've ever needed to move my free-sanding oven was to clean under/around it. If the built-in stovetop is properly installed and sealed to the counter, cleaning under it should never be an issue.


What's the best way to leave an air flow shaft in wood chips after removing a PVC pipe?

If I understand the setup, the goal of the PVC is to keep the pile aerated so it will be aerobic composting.

Some alternative solutions:

Figure out a way to periodically turn the pile and keep it fluffed-up. Turning the pile has multiple benefits beyond just aerating the pile. It also helps spread the beneficial bacteria. It also moves material from the dryer and colder edges/tops into the damper and hotter middle of the pile where it will be composted.
Get some more pipe. If cost or environmental impact are issues you could try to get some used or discarded pipes. One good trick is to set up an email alert from craigslist. You can also often find good materials at a used building goods store (in some cities these are run by Habitat for Humanity or similar organizations).
Use other materials in the pile to create a structure that has air pockets, like longer branches or stalks from plants like sunflower stems or corn stalks. These materials might not all compost as quickly as the wood chips and would need therefore need to be filtered out at the end to be composted twice. However, they should hopefully help the wood chips to compost.


Water meter calibration is something your water company can do for you, or you can hire an independent company to do it. I saw one water company charge $70 for calibration.

When water meters lose accuracy with age it is usually in your favor: large-scale calibration efforts have been profitable for water companies because replacing inaccurate meters usually leads to more revenues for them.

Before doing anything, test for leaks by turning off all faucets and appliances and verify that the meter stops. You can also learn a lot by watching the meter as you use water in different ways. (You will be surprised to see how much watering the lawn is costing you!)

You could try a rough DIY calibration by filling a large vessel of known volume, such as a kiddie pool, but you may need several samples to get an accurate estimate.


What router bearing can I use to reduce groove depth?

The combination bit/bearing that you pictured in the original post would be particularly useful for routing a slot along a curved edge, such as the rounded corners of a table top in preparation for the vinyl edge moulding held in place with a spline.

Trying to route a slot in something as thin as 3/8" engineered flooring is problematic when depth is controlled by a shank bearing. The upper and lower lips on either side of the groove will be a bout 1/8".  For a composite material, that narrow surface makes using a shank bearing technically challenging.  In practice though, it is even worse. The gap between the top of the bearing and the bottom of the cutting disc will reduce the effective lip to something less than 1/8", particularly in light of the rounded shoulders on the bearing. My guesstimate is that the bearing will have solid contact on only 1/16" of the 1/8" lip.

With that said, here are a few options ...

Instead of routing the 3.5" ends one by one, route in batches, say 8 or 10 at a time.  Mate them up side by side with the ends aligned. Clamp them together using a light weight 36" bar clamp, then use 6" bar clamps and a 2x4 on edge to secure the assembly down to the work surface (this will sandwich the flooring between the 2x4 and the work surface).  Place the 2x4 at the correct distance from the ends of the flooring so that the 2x4 serves as a rip fence for the router base. No bearings are needed with this approach.  The 2x4 can be aligned with the edge of the work surface, with the ends of the flooring protruding out.
Use the rip-fence that came with the router ... or make your own rip fence by screwing a, say 8"x4" piece of 3/4" plywood to the bottom of the router, with a U-shaped recess cut out of the middle of one edge to accommodate the router bit.  Note that this will provide full bearing on both lips.
Make your own donut-shaped adapter to slip over the metal ball-bearing, increasing it's effective outer diameter, making it out of a scrap of 1/4" plywood/lexan or similar.  Use a hole saw whose plugs happen to match the desired outer diameter of the bearing.  Cut a hole, and retrieve the plug (disc).  In the middle of the disc there will be a 1/4 pilot hole made by the hole saw. Enlarge it with a regular drill bit (or spade bit) that matches the existing bearing's outer diameter.  Slip the resulting plywood donut onto the bearing, using a wrap or two of duct tape on the bearing to achieve a snug fit. Lots of variations on this idea.
Use a base plate bushing instead of a shank bearing

For a number of reasons (1) is how I'd do it.  Second best is (2).


That thing is so hopelessly corroded that the only hope I see is to use one of the following:

(Picture Source: https://www.dremeleurope.com/general/en/cut-offwheel32mm-184-ocs-p/)

(Picture Source: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hand-Tools-20-807-Mini-HackTM/dp/B00009OYGD)

Any type of hammering, prying, twisting or chiseling you try to do is liable to either bend/break your sink or damage the finish if it is a porcelain type sink.


How to remove the "new carpet smell" (VOCs) from new carpet?

I don't know how true it is but I've heard a few times that certain plants do a good job of removing VOCs from household air. You could try investigating this claim. Here's one page that mentions it.

http://www.thedailygreen.com/going-green/tips/best-plants-for-indoor-air-quality

My wife has trouble with a variety of VOCs. It might not be an option for you to store the carpet partially outstretched in your garage until most of the odour departs.


Samsung RS275 fridge: no water filter indicator reset

You are pressing the wrong button, press and hold the "Ice Type" button to reset. From the Owners Manual:

  • Change filter every 6 months. If indicator is purple, the filter has 1 month left.
  If indicator is red, quick replacement is strongly recommended.
  • When the water filter is replaced, reset the indicator by pressing the Ice Type
  button for 3 seconds.
  • To turn this indicator off, press the Ice Type and Child Lock buttons simultaneously
  and hold for 5 seconds.

Note: the light will "stay on", but it will change color to green. I personally have difficulty with this because of mild red-green color vision deficiency, and must have another family member confirm when the LED color change has occured.


Lawn mower's power line cut off caused partial power outage

Exterior outlets are normally GFCI protected either at the breaker box or the outlet itself. If you have checked at the box already, check that none of the outlets is a tripped GFCI. If it is, there is a reset button on it.


By shower elbow, you mean this part, right?

If so, then to remove any remaining part left in the copper, get yourself some LONG needle nose pliars

Use those to remove any remaining plastic from the copper.

You can buy a replacement at pretty much any Home Depot or Lowe's - so buy one AND some teflon tape

IMPORTANT DO not buy the yellow package - that is for GAS, not water.  Blue and white or red and white packaging only!!!

Wrap 2 or 3 layers of tape around the wall end of the elbow.  Wrap it so that the tape follows the threading - so hold the pipe with the threads near you, start near you and wrap CLOCKWISE around the pipe.  That way as you screw in the pipe it won't peel off the tape.  Not too much tape or you won't get the pipe to fit!

Insert the elbow and turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE slowly at first, until you feel the threads kind of click into place (avoid cross threading) and then turn it clockwise.  Hand tighten only but make sure it's nice and snug and vertical.

Then reinstall your shower head per mfg instructions.


Plumbing toilet and sink into same drain

That 6’ run cannot be horizontal - it needs to slope, so either the wall end has to drop or the toilet end needs to be higher.

Your locality will specify the amount of slope in the regulations, however, some I have seen have a drop of about 6” across that distance. If the slope is too shallow, then things get stuck...


Considerations for installing a high efficiency furnace in my attic?

Yes you can put a high efficiency furnace in an attic hose if allowed by your local code. I use self regulating heat tape if there is any chance of the condensate line freezing.

Have you considered a mini split system? I have installed high efficiency furnaces in attics in the past but you would still need a separate compressor unit outside for AC.

The newer mini splits are extremely efficient and zone control can’t be beat as each unit or zone can be independently controlled.

With larger homes I recommend multiple outside units each outside unit can serve from 1 up to 8 inside units depending on the size and brand.  Mini split systems don’t require duct work and this is where installing a new forced air system gets expensive, in your case with multiple heat sources and ac you should at least consider a split as it won’t take up space in the attic or in the 2nd floor if you choose that location , no duct work is a big plus when changing heating styles like you are planning.


No, except that you need a product that doesn't shrink much (or you need to pre-fill to minimize depth and shrinkage). Pure silicone is good, as is urethane (though urethane is very difficult to work with if you're inexperienced--it sticks to everything, including fingers, and stays stuck).

1/4" isn't unmanageable. Cut your tube at an angle, then trim the very tip flat:

 _
| \
|  \
|   |
|   |

Apply the caulk with the cut parallel to the wall, and try to avoid any additional tooling.


Yes, the link you posted is for the Regal Select Exterior Revive. This product is made specifically for Vinyl Siding. It is designed to be buckle-resistant and no primer is needed. I painted houses professionally for 11 years and all I used were Benjamin Moore products. I have used this on vinyl shutters and it works exceptionally well. Benjamin Moore is expensive, but it covers well and lasts for many years. I would note that yellow is one of the hardest colors to cover in a single coat. You will probably have to double coat it.


If it was paint from the walls, I'll take a stab in the dark and guess that they used the cheapest possible latex paint to get the place ready to sell.  Try scraping at it with a credit card, starting from the edge of the paint.

If it starts coming off, use the credit card to pick up a handful of cheap plastic putty knives and go at it. Most latex paints don't stick particularly well to enamel unless it's been pretty severely abraded, and cheap plastic putty knives won't damage it (metal will, or at very least leave marks).


This is not meant to be an authoritative answer, but I have worked in many homes and buildings of similar age and you almost always see some cracks in the beams, they are usually there for decades, in fact they probably occur when wood is new and drying out for the first time.

Still it can't hurt to have someone take a look at it.  You could take some measurements and recheck it periodically, see if it is sagging or the crack is getting bigger.  If it isn't, it may be of no concern.  If necessary, they may be able to fill the crack with epoxy and / or sister on some lumber to stiffen it.


I had similar problem when putting up curtain brackets and hit a steel lintel. I was recommended 135deg split point cobalt and a good metal cutting paste. I must say I am well impressed with results.

I was also advised :

Drill slow
Use light pressure
Use cutting paste
Stop every 10 seconds to give the bit a chance to cool down


How do I convert from 3-way switches to dimmers?

Since the existing install is using black wires as grounded (neutral) conductors, you should start by rewiring the original circuit to be code compliant.

Then you'll wire the new dimmers in like this.

With the dimmers installed, you'll have something like this.

You'll notice that T2, that runs from F to DD is not labeled. This is because I'm not sure which wire it is in your photos.


Can earthing of a building degrade over time

Earthing can be damaged.

Whole earthing installation needs to be continuosly led to the ground, if something (a tree branch) or someone (a worker fixing house's external surface) brake the line, it needs to be checked and fixed.
My parents' house have had a similiar problem some years ago. They were making additional thermal insulation on external surfaces and, after deteatching wire leading to ground rod. Fixing the continuity fixed the problem.

My first guess here is to check the connection to ground rods. I don't think that it can be 'degraded', 12 years are not that much, I guess.


Refrigerator is unplugged a couple days for cleaning, once plugged back in will not start

If the refrigerator was unplugged during its defrost cycle, it may take some time to complete the cycle before kicking the compressor back on. Leave it plugged in for a few hours.

As mentioned in another answer, first check to make sure the outlet has power. Other than that, give it some time and see if it comes to life.


There's no problem with using stranded wire, as long as it's properly sized. The problem with your plan, is that you want to use an extension cord.

An extension cord is meant to be used as a temporary wiring method, with the cord intact and undamaged. Once you cut the end off the cord, the cord is no longer UL listed, and cannot be used in a code compliant manner.

You can use any cable or wire that is listed for wet/outdoor locations, whether it be solid or stranded wires.  Underground Feeder (type UF) cable is a common choice, if you want to use cable.  If you choose to use cable, you'll have to make sure that it's protected from physical damage.

THWN wire would be acceptable, if you want to run it through conduit.


Can we seal the bedroom door gap, or will it affect the central air conditioning airflow?

The gap at the door allows the heated air in because if the gap is sealed once the room Is pressurized No more air can get in so the room will not heat or cool if the airspace is blocked off.


Are USB sockets on wall outlets live all the time, even when the switch is off?

In the US, no the USB ports will not have power when the outlet is not powered. Most outlets in the US don't have power switches on them, so if you switch them off there is no way for power to be provided.

In the UK, outlets often have power switches. In that case, your USB ports are usually powered while the outlet switches are off. This is because the outlet assembly itself is always powered, but the switches only control the outlet and not the USB power transformer.

You said cheers in your original post, so I'm assuming you're probably British and have the UK type of USB outlet. Yes, this is normal.

Other answers are assuming that you are in the US, where that wouldn't be normal.


What could cause my electric water heater to over heat water?

15 years old, "heated the water nearly to the boiling point", and breaker tripping would tend to point to the bottom heating element in the tank becoming buried in sediment.  Higher water temperatures accelerate sediment formation, and after all of the available surfaces become scaled with deposits, it is free to settle to the bottom of the tank.  When it buries the bottom element, it impacts the heat transfer ability of the heating element (which means lower output temperatures and overloading on the circuit breaker).

The first thing that I would do would be to drain the tank and de-scale it according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you have particularly hard water in your area, this should be done at least every couple of years.


Are furring strips over insulation in concrete basement strong enough to hold some shelves and a tv?

The strips, absolutely not! At least not for the TV.  You can drill through them and install concrete anchors if the concrete is in good shape.  Just make sure the hold is good before hanging the TV. Since you currently don't have sheet rock up, I would cut a 3/4" piece of plywood large enough to accommodate everything you want, mount it directly to the concrete and sheet rock around or over it.
Tapcons are fairly easy to use, just follow ALL the directions, especially minimum length. Also, if this concrete is actually hollow cinder block, you need to be very careful with doing this.  An empty cavity will not hold.


Using a 16A energy monitor in a 10A socket

When electrical appliances talk about Amperes it usually means

how much max POWER it can OUTPUT
or
how much max POWER it can MEASURE

In your case, the spec actually means not to exceed the 16A limit.

So if you are monitoring a 10A socket that is well under the spec. So you will be fine.

As long as you do not exceed the 16A monitoring device limit you will be OK.

Usually in home applications.. you will(should) never actually have anything even close to that 16A limit. Power leads are typically marked 16A maximum to conform to electrical and home safety standards.

16A X 220Volt = 3500Watts

You will only see devices use more than that in Industrial situations and usually run of multiple phase supplies and massive core cables.


If it was the pressure relief valve, then you would see water coming out that line.  It sounds like a failing pressure regulator valve to me.  To check, pickup a simple pressure meter from the local HI store:

If you see this climbing around the same time the surging sound is happening, locate this device which should be shortly after the main shutoff and replace it:


I assume that the igniter is igniting the gas.
IF the shock is caused by the igniter piezo unit and
IF the igniter works
THEN it sounds as if the igniter IS grounded (at least locally) to the stove main metal work
BUT that the stove top proper is not.
Use an ohm meter (a DMM feature) to check DC resistance from bare metal on stove top to stove main body metalwork.
This should be a few Ohms at worst and probably under 1 Ohm.
IF the top is not properly grounded make it so.


Convert drop ceiling to drywall but with plumbing access

No real need to access anything there, frame it in and cover it all with drywall and no access panels. The flexible pipe looks "iffy" and there appears to be no valves that would need access, so if there was a leak, an access panel would not help facilitate a repair, since the ceiling would be damaged by the leak, it would need replacement anyway.


If you look closely at "sound-proof" windows, (I.e.: music rooms, sound studios, etc.), you'll see that the two (or 3) panes of glass are not parallel and not of the same thickness. This helps reflect sound waves back. So, if one wave length passes the first pane, the second pane will be out of sync with that wave length and reflect it back too.


How can I consolidate different heating/cooling systems into a single system?

With the ODControl from OpenDomo You can control up to 8 on/off outputs, 8 on/off inputs and (with the complementary module) up to 8 analog sensors. Is designed so you can configure it for any automation, and you can control it from a smartphone or tablet. In your case, each line will be controlling one zone or another.

Disclosure: Responder works for this company.


GFCIs are actually designed to do this sort of thing. That's what the LOAD part of your GFCI is for. When anything happens on that side, that would trip it if it were a GFCI, the GFCI triggers. So any outlets on that side of the circuit are considered to be GFCI protected.

I would highly recommend you buy a circuit tester that has a GFCI trip switch

Pressing the button feeds the hot through the ground, which should trip the GFCI.


24" apart vertically means there are horizontal metal strips called RC (resilient channels) Channels. They are used in sound walls to keep sound from "traveling" through the wall.

Anchoring into the metal strips will defeat their purpose and they are not great supports.


Can I wire my entire music studio on a single circuit?

I don't have the reputation to comment so I'll jot this down as a partial answer.

Install 12A wire in the building You are outfitting an accessory building to do music production; not just lighting a room. By July it will occur to you that you need a small AC window unit and a mini-fridge. Don't skimp on the wire now.

Strongly consider installing a sub-panel This allows you to run separate circuits for lighting and electronics. Not to mention a 20A circuit for your future wet-bar.

Think about lightning risk; think about ground loops If lightning strikes this building what is the path to earth? If you ground the sub-panel locally you can introduce a ground loop. Especially since you probably have a mix of grounded electronics (computers with 3-prong plugs) and un-grounded musical equipment (amps with 2-prong plugs). I suspect the best approach will be to avoid a separate local ground and tie back into your main house ground. So make sure your grounding conductor back to the house is of sufficient gauge. I don't know if putting the dimmers on a separate energized wire from your wall outlets will help avoid magnetically induced hum. If it does, this would be one justification for running MWBC as others have suggested.


Upgrading a heat pump to a larger heat strip

Hold on. This doesn't make any sense.

You seem to be assuming that operation of the heat strip is a normal state of affairs and this is where your heat comes from on a 35-40 degree day.  No, no, that would be entirely pointless!  It would defeat the purpose of even having a heat pump.  At that point you might as well just have an air conditioner added to a pure resistive electric furnace.

Something is wrong with your heat pump.  I know that's not what you want to hear, but the repairman will be cheaper than the electric bills all winter long from running resistive heat.  What an expensive way to heat!!!!

I mean, if you really want that, you can just install a bunch of $50 Cadet style electric baseboard heaters at 2000 watts a heater, as many as you plese. Feed them from a contactor operated by the same 24V signal that kicks the emergency heat on. Easy peasy.  But you'll hate me when the bill comes.

The only other possibility is that the heat pump was wildly mis-specced for your location, which needs to be hashed out with the installer if it's a new install, or the previous owner has just been living with for years.  But that seems insane; you have the worst of both worlds.  The maintenance expense of a heat pump system with none of the cost/efficiency savings.


The Lennox XP17 series is certainly capable of operating at lower outdoor temperatures than 35F with reasonable efficiency.  The extended performance tables on these units are published by Lennox at the following url:

http://tech.lennoxintl.com/C03e7o14l/UfSSOXTazc/ehb_xp17_1512.pdf

Beginning on page 16, they list performance information for different indoor/outdoor combinations.  For most combinations, the designed performance of the unit at an outdoor air temperature of 17F is about 60% of the full rated capacity.

One likely cause of the problem you describe is that your unit is equipped with an optional outdoor thermostat kit which is set much too conservatively (Lennox Part 56A87 or similar).  This part is often used to automatically disable the outdoor unit during extremely cold temperatures and it is usually located somewhere in the control section of the outdoor condenser.


It really depends on the floor. Some flooring is very thin layers over particle board, so sanding can easily eat through all the top layer. Other flooring is thicker. If you can, see if you can figure out the manufacturer and type. If not, the best thing to do is find a place where experiments will not be visible and try sanding. In a kitchen, one great option is under the fridge or dishwasher. If those are easy to roll out of the way, you can get a sander and give it a shot.


How do I connect two 220V devices each with 12/2 wire to a 220V 12/3 feed?

Do you want the heater on the same switch as the pump? If so, then the simplest thing would be to add a new 12/2 wire between the switch and the heater. You'd run a short length of black wire (called a pigtail) from the switch to a new wire nut, where it would join with the black wire feeding the pump and the black wire feeding the heater.

It looks like the 12/3 wire was perhaps not necessary in this application. Typically, when 240V is carried over 3 wires, you have two hot wires on different phases (black and red), and one neutral wire (white). Voltage between either hot and the neutral is 120V and voltage between the two hots is 240V. If you have a device which only needs 240V, you can run this over a 2-conductor cable, and that is indeed what seems to be happening in your case. Note that some devices, such as clothes dryers, require 3 wires (plus ground) so that they can access both 240V (for heat) and 120V (for e.g. a lamp). Anyway, that may explain why your 12/3 suddenly changes to 12/2 - the neutral is simply unnecessary for 240V.

However, doing an electrical junction inside a ball of tape buried in the ground is a dangerous and horrible idea. It will be highly vulnerable to rain and yard work. Even with a GFCI circuit breaker, this wiring is unsafe for your family and visitors. You absolutely need to replace it with a proper junction, above ground in a dry and accessible location. And if you're only "pretty" sure there's a GFCI, I would strongly recommend getting an electrician to check this out. The buried ball of wire is a huge red flag that things were not done correctly and safely when this wiring was installed, and the danger here is serious.

I can't tell exactly what's going on in your picture. Is that a conduit line feeding the ball-of-wires or is it an outdoor electrical outlet fed off the same circuit? Buried wiring needs to be specially designated underground feeder (UF) type, is yours? These things should also be figured out while you have this all open.

My recommendation is to bury either conduit (easier to run new stuff later) or proper UF cable and completely rewire these devices. Your current configuration is seriously dangerous and needs to be corrected by someone who knows what he is doing. And given the carelessness evident here, you'd probably benefit from some further investigation inside the home. Sorry to sound so negative, but this is really too dangerous to be ignored.


Nothing is going to make it disappear 100%, but with a little artistic talent you can hide it pretty good.

You're looking for a Laminate touch-up kit (or the cheap version). Essentially you fill the crack with hard wax, and then paint it to match the 'texture'. The better your knack for colors, the better the result.


Add another board across the back and screw through that into the two studs.

If you would want to locate the shelf with a stud in the middle, then use a metal angle or a wooden piece under or on top of the top shelf and fasten that to the stud. One attachment in the middle of the shelves would hold unless you are in a seismic zone and there are specific requirements.

Be sure that when you tighten the screw it does not pull the shelving unit off one or two of the feet. You might need to put shims behind the wood you are using to secure the shelf.


With two adjacent regular breakers, you can share the neutral, a multiwire branch circuit.  Adjacent breakers are on different legs, so the neutral only carries the difference in current between the two hots due to a cancellation effect.

With a tandem breaker, both breakers are on the same leg / line, there is no cancellation effect on the neutral, so you can't share the neutral - you'd be doubling the load on the neutral conductor!

So yes you must use two 14/2 cables rather than a single 14/3.


Goodman Model GPC1242H41CA Blowing Low volt fuse ONLY when heat is turned on

My guess is there is a short in either the W wire or in one of the heating components. If it happens immediately it is probably in the W wire. If it goes for a while it is probably in one of the components and when that component is energized the fuse blows. Try disconnecting the thermostat wires from the unit and jump R to W. If it works your problem is in the thermostat or thermostat wires. If it stil blows the problem is in the unit itself. They do make things called poppers that are basically circuit breakers instead of fuses that fit where automotive fuses go. Saves a lot on fuses when not sure where the problem is.


How can I properly vent a basement toilet & shower using an AAV?

So for those out there looking for an answer here is what my plumber did:

The toilet, sink, and shower were all fairly close to each other (in my case about 6 ft). He installed one AAV inside the cabinet under the sink. That is the only AAV installed. He said it has now become a "wet vent" to the toilet and shower drain.


How do I stop backyard from flooding when it rains hard?

Put in one of these. It's a French Drain, it is also on this sites FAQ.
How do I build a French drain?

The need for a French Drain arises from a few problems, but usually from standing water in or around your home. This is caused by poor drainage, usually from clay rich soil or overly compacted soil. A French Drain will relocate the water very efficently. Link tot he question above for specifics.


Unfortunately while your shower door and base look nice, the engineering on them is whack.  Just looking at where the door should sit... its not even flat.   I am guessing (hoping) that there is a bevel to the bottom of the door that makes it "fit" but just a flat surface works better.
I have put in 10s of these things.   On all of mine I have had the OPPOSITE issue. I have to build out to a depth so the door isn't inside.
What could you have done better?     Well you should have set your base up and put the door on to test out the dimensional fit before installing the backer and tile.   If you are off by that much there is no way this thing will fit.
(pre) Solution?   You could inset the wall compared to the rest of the room by using thinner concrete backer or possibly make the rest of the room thicker...   You could also push the base out by maybe adding a backing to it.   It is too late to try these things as you would need to rip out your base and redo plumbing a bit.
(post) Solution?   You cannot cut out a space for your door.   I have no idea why that is being suggested in the comments.   I have never seen anyone with any tool that could cut out tile in a straight line.   Sure you can cut it out.   Just like I can spray paint my car myself when I need a paint job.   Expect to use lots of caulk after and for it to look really bad and possibly leak.
Me guesses... I would guess that the manufacturers run sheet on this install is doing it with a PVC wall system.   I am guessing that they suggest that the walls go right on the 2x4 framing.  Then your door fits.   There really isn't another way given your details are correct.    (do you have the manufacturers install instructions for this? it is common for these bases/doors to be sold separate from a wall system as they can give you a variety of choices on the wall system.)
How do we salvage this?   The only solution without ruining the integrity of the tile work you have done and possibly ruining the waterproof system is to cut the door to make it fit.   Cutting the metal is not that big of a deal.   The cuts should be hidden for the most part and the side pop back in after.   If you can only cut one side obviously that is half the work but I am not there and doubt it.   The problem is you probably cannot cut the glass as it should be tempered.   Meaning local glass shop will have to send out two new tempered sheets.   So your cost of repairing this right is really just those two new sheets (100-150 in my area).


A common approach is a rubber coupling (also called a "Fernco®" for the same reason adhesive bandages are called "Band-Aids®")
Counter-intuitively, the last time I read the instructions carefully the ones with a stainless steel reinforcement (sheilded) were not recommended for burial and the plain rubber ones (unsheilded) (with stainless steel clamps) were, but read the instructions carefully yourself to be sure.
General approach is to cut off the iron pipe and use a rubber fitting to transition to PVC. Then be sure to protect the PVC from sunlight (cover it in some way, or at the least paint it. Sunlight is not good for PVC pipe.) You may need to use a wire brush and/or grinder to get the outside of the iron pipe smooth enough for a good seal.


Sand them flat (or even slightly dished). Apply joint tape to any cracks (my personal preference is mesh, though you'll find lots of opinions). Apply all purpose joint compound in numerous thin coats. (Purists would have you do the mesh tape coat with a setting compound. Opinions vary, but setting+mesh is technically better.) Let dry completely between coats. Sand off high spots between coats. Eventually get to the point where you're feathering out the patch with a 12" knife. Do a final sand.

If you can handle the truth, shine a bright light sideways along the patch. That will show defects.

If you've passed the light test, prime and paint. Congratulate yourself for a job well done.


Fixing the fiberglass is not a good idea. The point where the brace attaches to the ladder is frequently stressed in multiple directions and any fiberglass repair you do is likely to not hold up.

Fixing it with 2 steel plates is a better idea. If the damage to the fiberglass is small and isolated to just one face, then I recommend the steel be at least 6 inches long and as wide as possible. Use at least 6 bolts, if not 8.

However, if the damage extends past the face and on to the front or back face then I don't think repairing it is a safe idea.


I did something similar for my kids' rocking swing, only I bypassed the battery. Find one of the 64 old phone chargers you have around that matches the voltage and current requirements of the mobile, and connect that to the battery box. (You did save all those proprietary Motorola and LG flip-phone chargers for hobby projects, right?)

You can either solder directly to the terminals, or solder to a couple metal plates that you hold in place with a battery-sized dowel. This way you can use batteries again later if you like. Consider installing a fuse inline with the positive wire for added safety.


Since the flashing is there and will trap water your choice is a good one or a Henery's or Black Jack roofing product will seal the edge so water doesn't get trapped. I would go with the least expensive since they will all last longer than the time your inspector said was left on the life of the roof. Not much water will go to the side but wind can push it under and then it is trapped.From what I see in the photo the roof looks to have quite a few years left.


How do I convert fluorescent cans to LED?

I believe that the electrical connection you are seeing is from the ballast ( the thing that Makes the fluorescent tube light) that is wired into the other metal box part of the Can. You would need to remove that ballast to put in another type of light in. It would be in the little panel that opens up that I can see in the 2nd Picture. In that box there should be the main electrical wire that is feeding the ballast then the ballast has 4 wires coming out. You would want to remove it and then have a White and Black go back though that flex.   Though your stumbling block there might be how to mount the new LED Trim to the Existing housing.

Do you have room in the attic to see the Cans? It might be easier to replace the can from the Attic with a new Can (they are less then $10)


How to loosen nut without damaging toilet shutoff

I usually use an adjustable spanner to hold the body of the valve when tightening, or loosening, any valve.

This saves so much hassle as the supply pipe does not get kinked or its joint disturbed.

A good tip from the OP in the comments is to remove the knob as this permits a better purchase.

I use the type of adjustable spanner with flat parallel jaws adjusted by a rotating screw:

Borrowed image from https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142846365301


How do I go about installing a subpanel on wood paneling that's mounted to a concrete wall?

Putting the plywood up makes a great base for a panel , I usually only use 1 anchor in each corner about 1" in from the edge. You can screw directly into the stud or furing strip since you plan on spanning 2 studs you don't have to go into the concrete wall. Then use screws to anchor the panel, your plan sounds good to me.


How to hang a baby cradle from a concrete ceiling?

Concrete is a great building material because it has very high "compressive strength"; it resists being crushed, and so can support a very heavy load placed on top of it.

However, it has very poor "tensile strength" and "shear strength"; it can be "pulled apart" relatively easily. This means that hanging stuff from underneath usually doesn't work very well, because the hanging load will "pull" on the concrete. While the relatively light weight of something like this would not normally be a concern, the fact that you'll be putting something very precious and delicate in it makes me very wary.

If you want to try it anyway, forget the hook that came with the cradle; it's for screwing into a wood support member like a ceiling joist or beam, and will not work at all in concrete. You will first need to drill a hole in the concrete. This will require a concrete drilling bit (probably several of them; concrete is not easy to drill through and will dull bits very quickly) and possibly a hammer drill if it's treated or hardened concrete.

Then, you will want to install a concrete anchor. These anchors are designed to "crush" as you screw a bolt into them, expanding a part of their frame into and against the concrete to lock it in place. Here's one that should work for you:

Its 5,000-lb rated load may be a bit of overkill, but you don't want this to fail, EVER, so go for broke. You can even use some construction adhesive or epoxy to further "seat" the anchor in the hole.

Then, after any adhesive or epoxy you put in has had time to set and cure, you just hook the cradle to the D-bolt on the anchor (this may require an S-hook, climbing carabiner or threaded quick-link) and you're done.


Why does our toilet keep blocking and then slowly draining?

The one time this happened to me it turned out that my 1.5-yr-old had flushed a quarter-turn piece of his hamster run into the toilet.

The snake went through it and we couldn't find any obstruction.

So we decided to replace the toilet.

As soon as it was off the floor we turned it over and there it was.  A nice piece of blue curved plastic.

It was wedged in such a way that the snake made it pivot to go through, but water flow would catch in it and it would turn back to block the flow.

So the answer in our case was to remove the toilet and give it a thorough examination.


What does it mean to drain into a "laundry tub?"

Just like a Washing Machine
A washing machine drain hose can go directly into a drain, but it can also drain into a laundry tub. I am having trouble finding a free picture, so here is a link to a typical one: Laundry tub on Amazon.
The main advantage of draining into a laundry tub for a washing machine is that you can install a filter (typically made out of metal mesh and thrown away when it fills up) on the output hose to keep lint out of the main drain. But another advantage, particularly if you already have a laundry tub installed, is that you don't have to do any real plumbing work when you install the washing machine - just hook up the hot & cold input and the drain output goes into the laundry tub, taking advantage of the trap that is already there.
Similarly, for a condensate drain you can simply put the output hose or pipe over the edge of the laundry tub and let it drip into the tub without worrying about any other plumbing work. My A/C condensate drain used to be set up that way, but I changed it to go into a floor drain instead because the slope was too low for the long pipe run needed around the laundry room.
Draining into a laundry tub also functions as an air gap. Because the hose is not going directly into the drain pipe, it becomes nearly impossible for water to back up from the main drain into the device (washing machine drain or A/C or water heater condensate line).
What you can't do is simply drain into a bucket, except in an emergency situation. Any bucket - whether 1 gallon or 5 gallon or any other size - will fill up and overflow if left unattended with a condensate line, it is just a matter of time.


Replace door knob with lever handle on rim latch door

If the latch is in good condition, you could reconsider just replacing the knobs with new lever handles.  Yes, they'll be "inboard" (towards the center of the door), but you'll maintain the hardware.

Replacing the latch hardware

New rim latches are available, but they're rare in the United States.

You'll typically replace the latch assembly (on the door) as well as the striker (on the jamb) to ensure you have alignment between the two.

You need a mechanism which is furnished with a square hole, as well as a lever set with a matching square spindle (shaft).

It may be more typical to source these from Europe.  Here is one example of one that's currently available from a global hardware manufacturer:

  Union latch model 1209 from Assa Abloy

This is designed to be reversible, for either right-inswing or left-inswing doors.  The upper striker appears to be a "privacy lock", for example for a bathroom or bedroom -- the British may call this a "snib lock".*

Then using a lever set with square shaft, you're all set.  A "set screw" will hold the levers in place.  (Apparently in Britain a "set screw" is known as a "grub screw"!)   One lever mates to the latch box directly.  The other uses a small trim plate (escutcheon), as you'll see in the photo below.

Typically European latches use a 7.6 mm spindle and 8 mm hole (source), and antique hardware may use a 7 mm spindle.

European suppliers are used to furnishing matching compatible handle sets and can provide the correct length of square spindle as required.

Here are some current sources (2019) that you might use for starters:

  eBay seller

eBay UK, Doorhandleparts.com, Locks Online Limited, Timothy Wood Limited, Duffels Locks, and find tons of others by searching "Buy Union 1209 latch" or "Buy rim latch UK".

  *⚠ Caution about the privacy lock: In the USA, local laws or building codes may require a way to override this lock, for example using a small hairpin, so you don't have to kick the door in if the person inside becomes incapacitated or can't open the lock by themselves.  Verify that the lock you buy has this feature, or get a version without the snib-lock if needed.

A word about "backset"

Your question asked for a rim latch "with the spindle hole near the edge of the door".  This dimension is called the backset.

On a modern, tubular lock, there are usually different choices of backset depending on the door, and hardware that's sold "off the shelf" is often built to be adaptable so the store doesn't have to carry multiple sizes.

Backset dimensions of tubular locks, and the Union rim latch, are shown here:

It looks like the latch in the original photo has a backset of around 6—8". If you replace it with a new rim latch, you could obtain a latch with much smaller backset. Here are some examples:

Rim latch with 1-1/2" Backset, House of Antique Hardware
Rim latch with 3-1/16" Backset, Amazon.com
The Union latch model above has a 76 mm (~3.0") backset.  Union Online

I don't think you can go much smaller than 1-1/2", since this position sets up how close to the doorjamb the knob, and your hand, have to go!


Feasibility (and cost) of swapping wires on circuit breaker panel

If the basement is unfinished, this is easy work for an electrician.  However, you really, really ought to address the "electrical panel full" situation Right Now because it will be much cheaper dealing with this now than later.

But yes, not terrible expense relative to professional work.

Further, if you want to save a lot of money, you can school up and do the bulk of the work yourself, then have an electrician finish. This has the advantage of you working on entirely cold wiring.  My entre into this work was needing to rewire a 20,000 sf factory building. Cleaned out every 480VAC drop, 100% rewired both 120/240 services, etc.  Paid the 480 guy $3000 to walk the floor, megger-test everything (all passed) then hook up the 1000A 480V service.  He was "now you can start working on the 120V" and I turned the lights on. Already done.


Will hex shank drill bit fit a 3 jaw chuck?

It depends on the shank. Some masonry bits have a round area too close to the hex to fully lock a drill chuck on (oem bits for specific brands). If the shank is a full hex it will work with no problems. I use hex bits all the time because they grip better in the drill chuck and don't take as much force to hold them in place so they won't spin when you bite into a tougher spot.


Different light fixture in basement on pull switch

The short answer is yes you can, the easiest way is first to see if all the lights are on 1 breaker (normal wiring) It is possible they could be on 2 or 3 different circuits but again you could still do it with 1 switch (3 phase and some wires).
Most basements or all I have worked on are fed from 1 or 2 circuits. Identifying the circuits is the first step. After that it can be as simple as turning all the pull chain fixtures on and interrupting the feed with a simple switch a box on the feed or even at  the panel , 2 wires (Romex to a new box) where you install a simple switch). This may be quite easy but we need to know if it is a single circuit and if it is for lighting only.


Dealing with that pesky urge to...expand

Your issue is that the water in a hot water heater expands as it is being heated.  This backpressure is normally taken up by the city water supply without issue, as the water in the heater is all still potable (drinkable), and most houses have nothing in their water supply line that would block this backflow of water.

However, some houses have a device on the cold side of the hot water heater that blocks this backpressure, at least some of the time.  While the usual culprit is what's called a pressure-reducing valve or PRV, and devices known as backflow preventers also pose this problem when fitted, in your case, the behavior is caused by the water softener shutting off its outlet valve during the regeneration process.  With nowhere to go, the water in the tank builds up pressure as it is heated, and eventually the T&P valve on the water heater lets go to relieve this excess pressure down the drain.

Fixing this requires adding an expansion tank in between the water softener and the water heater.  This provides a place for the extra volume occupied by the heated water to go, thus mitigating the pressure change and keeping the water heater relief valve from opening in the process.

While you're fixing this plumbing...

There is another fix you need to make to your water heater while you are in re-working the plumbing. Since you have softened water plumbed to your heater, which is highly conductive, your heater's protective anode rod (sacrificial anode) will not last long, as the extra conductivity of the water makes the rod excessively active.  And once that rod goes away, there is nothing standing between your water heater tank and rusting away into a giant leak; while typical residential water heater tanks have a thin porcelain-glass lining that acts as primary corrosion protection, this lining is expected to have defects in it that allow water direct access to the tank steel.

This is fixed by removing the anode rod from the tank and installing a powered anode in its place.  Instead of forming a galvanic cell between the tank steel and the anode rod with the water as the electrolyte to prevent the tank from rusting out, the powered anode converts 120V AC into a small, low-voltage current that is impressed on the tank steel (it's a household version of something called impressed current cathodic protection in industry), thus opposing the normal galvanic cells that drive the corrosion process and keeping the tank's steel intact for as long as power is applied, irrespective of water conductivity.

As to finding one? Powered anodes are available through a variety of sources; Amazon has the Corro-Protec kit available for just over $100, while your local supply house may have the Corro-Protec or Ceranode kits available; if those don't work, you can get powered anodes through Water Heater Rescue.  If you have an A.O. Smith-made water heater, and it is still under its factory warranty, you can get a powered anode kit from A.O. Smith (part number 100305721) that is guaranteed to not void the remaining warranty on the heater, even.

In the case the heater's already shot

There is a chance, of course, that your water heater has bigger issues than needing the aid of a mere expansion tank.  Some blundering types pull the anodes out of water heaters used on softened water, and this leads to a very short life for said water heater before it dies a messy death from the inside out.  It could also be the case that the existing heater may be at the end of its natural life and in need of replacement anyway.

In either of those cases, I would recommend looking to either an A.O. Smith-made water heater with one of the aforementioned powered anode kits fitted for your replacement heater if you wish to stay with a traditional glass-lined tank, or looking quite hard at alternatives to glass-lined tanks.  Stainless steel tanks are a fairly popular option, but take some care in material selection, especially in water with a high chloride content, due to issues with stress corrosion cracking in the most common grades of stainless steel.  There are also cement-lined water heater tanks out there, if stainless steel is not an option in your case; however, they are harder to find than stainless tank heaters are.  Lastly, if you are replacing an electric water heater, Rheem makes a polymer-tanked electric water heater called the Marathon that has no issues with corrosion whatsoever.


How can I make the underneath of an outdoor playset usable and not a mudpit?

Under our playset we have landscaping mesh with rubber mulch over the top. The top layer of mulch is for comfort and protects the mesh. The mesh keeps things from growing up through the mesh. It's been there for 4+ years and not a single weed.


This is a nice ductless HRV.  Depending on number of bedrooms maybe just put 1 per bedroom.
The other units typically require a lot of ducting and are large boxes.
https://foursevenfive.com/lunos-e
You should consider backer rod and energy seal around window/doors (same technique as chinking).


Is it wise (or even code-compliant) to cut an access panel for my bathtub drain?

This is actually a good idea to a very good idea.  I know of no code to restrict this.


First, check the basics:

Are you turning the right direction?  It is easy to get backwards when you are in an unusual approach.  Inspect the thread closely for the correct loosen direction.
How long is the wrench?  An 8 inch wrench is probably insufficient for loosening 1/2 inch copper fittings, though it probably is sufficient for tightening them.  Try a 12 or 16 inch wrench.  The greater leverage of a longer wrench provides greater torque, but more importantly provides more control at that torque so you won't be as tempted to "pulse" the torque.

To protect the valve and safeguard other plumbing, be sure to provide counter-force at the other side of the joint with a similar wrench or vicegrips, etc.

In my experience, WD-40 is no help with plumbing.


Can I make an interior partition wall thinner to accommodate appliances?

Pantries built with studs and drywall often waste a ton of space, and this looks to be no different. You might be better off restructuring this area to remove the doorway and pantry wall. I would reclaim the pantry space through installation of efficient cabinets that maximize the space (I redid my first kitchen like that and gained more storage with cabinets).


What is the difference between a single and double union pressure reducing valve/regulator?

A double-union device, and it doesn't matter if it's a pressure reducer or valve or whatever, should always be used where it's not at an end of the line.  That way if it ever needs to be removed for replacement or service, that can be done.
The single-union will not have enough clearance to be removed since it's likely the pipes on either side of it will not be movable.  As you unscrew the non-union side, the union side will be pushed into the pipe and likely prevent you from getting it off.
Interestingly, I've seen a water company service guy reach down into a valve/meter box, unscrew the two unions on the valve (it had broken) and screw a new one in without having to shut off the main.  It didn't take him 30 seconds to do it.  They didn't want to shut off the main because my street only had a single shutoff for the entire length of the main vs. hookup by hookup shutoffs which are standard these days.  He could never have done that with a single-union valve.


Perimeter walls, ceilings and sound insulation

The insulated partition wall is the primary means of attenuating sound transmission. The adjacent concrete structure provides a flanking path for sound to travel around the edges of the partition, so sound needs to be prevented from reaching the concrete. Normally, one only needs to insulate about 5 feet from either side of the partition to mitigate flanking paths. Due to reverb problems, insulating the entire area could be warranted.

Despite all the added insulation, you will still have reverb problems unless the new finished surfaces are selected carefully. Don't forget the floor can also be a flanking path. Carpet and padding will help. Saw cutting the floor slab under the partitions would also eliminate the flanking path, but could cause other problems if the sub-grade is unstable, so consider this approach carefully.


How do I remove paint from a wood floor?

Removing painted to expose wood grain requires significant effort. How much effort depends on the type of wood, the type of paint, and how much paint has been applied.

The simplest approach is sanding.  If the wood is thick and you have access to a professional sanding machine, this can be done, but this process generates a great deal of dust that needs to be collected, and, if the paint is old, presents a lead hazard. Mask, vacuuming and heavy duty filters are required.

Chemical stripping avoids most of the airborn dust (and lead) and can remove the bulk of the finish.  A follow-up sanding is needed.  There are several new citrus based strippers that are fairly effective and avoid the more toxic chemicals of the solvent based strippers.

If the wood is open grained (like oak) it is likely that paint will remain in the grain, necessitating a deeper final sanding.

If the floor is very small, hand scraping is possible, but again, masks and vacuuming are essential and again, a final sanding is necessary to get it ready for finish coats.

Sanding of floors is almost always done with larger commercial type units, using ever finer grades of sandpaper.  If the area is small and you are patient, a hand-held belt sander, or even an orbital sander may work.


What is the white flakes and hairy thing on ceiling?

Is that a portion of a rebar that is exposed? If so, that is dangerous. That means it and other rebar is improperly installed. Depending on what is above, the floor/ceiling could be overloaded and come falling down. Concrete is designed to fail by tension (cracking from below) rather than fail by compression (exploding under pressure,) but I wouldn't trust it. If one rebar is installed improperly, (installed too close to bottom of slab,) then I'm sure many other rebars are not installed correctly. Obviously it's been failing for some time (note the rust) but if a new load is added, (snow, waterbed, etc.) it could trigger a disaster.
Get a professional to look at it immediately.


Why am I reading zero volts phase to earth?

That is a simple "open ground", or "open earth" situation. The safety connection to "earth" is open somewhere in the circuit.

This is a problem that should be corrected. May I ask what prompted you to make these measurements?


2 pole 20amp breaker connected to my 40 amp stove

It is not correct, NEC 210.21(B)(3) specifies a 50 amp receptacle on 40 amp breaker, with minimum #8 AWG wire is the correct configuration for a 40A range. (NEMA does not designate a 40A configuration.)

It is likely the breaker will protect the wire from being damaged, but the breaker will likely trip often and wear out quickly. Typically modern breakers failure mode is to become more sensitive.

I would suspect the house was originally wired for a gas range.


How much air ventilation required for oil burner in a closet?

According to NFPA 31, you'll need two openings. One near the top, and one near the bottom. Each of which must be 1 in.² per 1000 Btu/h of the input rating of all the appliances in the confined space.

NFPA 31 Standard for Installation of Oil Burning Equipment.
Chapter 5 Air for Combustion and Ventilation.
5.4 Appliances Located in Confined Spaces.
5.4.1 All Air Taken from Inside the Building.
5.4.1.1 The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings as shown in figure 5.4.1.1, one near the top of the space and one near the bottom.
5.4.1.2 Each opening shall have a free area of not less than 1 in.² per 1000 Btu/h (140 in.² per gal/h) (22 cm²/kw), based on the total input rating of all appliances in the space.


Help wiring "smart" light switch in existing space

It appears that your wiring is in conduit so the metal box will be grounded so a green ground wire wasn't needed. You can run a ground wire from the box with a 10-32 screw into the ground hole in the back of the box to the two switches or if the switches have a metal yoke, just screw them into the box.
The red wire going to each of your existing switches is your hot wire. The orange and yellow wires are your load wires for your fixtures. Your instructions for the new switches will tell you what goes where. If your switches require a neutral, that would be the two white wires connected together with the wire nut.


Should I immediately clean my paint sprayer after use?

Flush the sprayer with the appropriate solvent for the material you were spraying -- water for water-borne finishes, paint thinner for oils, alcohol for shellac, ....

Yes, clean the gun as soon as you're done with it for at least a few hours, to avoid clogging. You may be able to just cap the finish cup and set it aside for later.


Will the second light in this circuit light up?

As it turns out, no.  R2 will not light up.
The Experiment
Being true to my username, I decided to test this out.  No, I didn't grab hold of a grounded (neutral) conductor (Sorry to disappoint those of you who would have liked to see me get zapped into oblivion).
I started by wiring up a sample circuit.

Then I added an extension cord, so I could plug it into a receptacle.

When I flipped the switch, the second light did not light!

Finally I took some readings with my ammeter, and this is what I found.

Notes:
I ended up using 15W compact flourescent lamps instead of 60W incandescents, which is why I measured only 0.125A.
The Explanation
Kirchhoff's second law says that the total voltage applied to any closed circuit path, is always equal to the sum of the voltage drops in that path.
If you look at the circuit, there is a "closed circuit path" which I've highlighted in red below.

If we apply 120 volts to the loop, the total voltage drop in the loop will also be 120 volts.  However, the majority of the voltage drop occurs in the first part of the loop (the wire to the switch, the switch, the wire between the switch and light, the light, and the wire from the light to the first twist-on wire connector). From this point, the same voltage will be applied to the remainder of the first loop as is applied to the second loop.  This voltage will be so small, it will not be enough to light the bulb.
Maths
Each length of wire in the photo is 14 AWG, and 6" long. We can determine the resistance of each bit of wire using Table 8, from chapter 9 of the National Electrical Code. Solid, 14 AWG, uncoated, copper wire has a resistance of 3.07 ohms per 1000 feet.
3.07 ohms per kFT. / 1000 FT. = 0.00307 ohms per foot
0.00307 / 2 = 0.001535 ohms per half foot (6")
We can determine the resistance of a 15W compact fluorescent lamp (CFL), using Ohm's law Resistance (R) equals voltage (E) squared divided by power (P).
R = 120V ^2 / 15W = 14400V / 15W = 960 ohms
If we plug those values into a diagram, we'll end up with something like this...

Now we can determine the total resistance in the circuit (we'll assume 0 ohms in the switch for simplicity).
Ra = R1 + R2 + R3 + R4 + R5 + R6 = 960.007675 ohms
Rb = R7 + R8 + R9 = 960.00307 ohms
Rt = (Ra * Rb) / (Ra + Rb) = 921610.31522356225 / 1920.010745 = 480.0026862472388142806982051551
Next we'll calculate the total current.
Ia = Et / Ra = 120V / 960.007675 ohms = 0.12499900065903118951627131522672 amperes
Ib = Et / Rb = 120V / 960.00307 ohms = 0.12499960026169499645454258807735 amperes
It = Ia + Ib = 0.12499900065903118951627131522672 amperes + 0.12499960026169499645454258807735 amperes = 0.24999860092072618597081390330407 amperes
Then we can calculate the voltage drop across each component.
DeltaR1 = R1 * Ia = 0.00019187346601161287590747646887302 volts
DeltaR2 = R2 * Ia = 0.00019187346601161287590747646887302 volts
DeltaR3 = R3 * Ia = 119.99904063266994193562046261765 volts
DeltaR4 = R4 * Ia = 0.00019187346601161287590747646887302 volts
Total Voltage Drop after R4 = DeltaR1 + DeltaR2 + DeltaR3 + DeltaR4 = 119.99961625306797677424818504706 volts
Voltage after R4 = 120V - 119.99961625306797677424818504706V = 0.00038374693202322575181495294V

NOTE: While looking at the diagrams, it may seem as though you're dealing with a simple parallel circuit. However, it's actually a short-circuited series circuit. This is why the results may be counter intuitive, and confusing.


How to install ceiling light where there previously was none?

You've pretty much got it.  If you can twist wires with wire nuts and connect them to a switch you have the technical skills needed.  The hardest part is usually pulling the wire from the wall into the ceiling.

Get an "old work" ceiling/light box.  Cut a hole in the desired ceiling location, ensuring no joist will interfere with anchoring the old work box there.  (If you want to hang a ceiling fan or something heavy you'll need a joist-anchored box, which can be quite a pain to get into place unless you have easy access above.)
Pull/fish approved wire (no less than 14/2, assuming 15 amp service) from the switch box to the light box.
Wire and hang the light.
Turn off the circuit to the switch, then connect the new wire to the existing switch.

Remember: all wire has to be anchored to the work boxes, and all splices/connections made inside the work boxes.


Do you need to tape and 'mud' cement board corners in dry settings?

The thinset and mesh tape are to strengthen the seams. If you are going to tile over the cement board, you should tape the seams.

This should not be that difficult. Pack in thinset, lay on the tape, and flat-knife to get it set in. In the corners, use a corner knife.

If you just want to leave the corners untreated that will probably be fine, because that seam won't split the center of a tile.


At minimum you need a rod (or more usually 2, more than 8 feet part, since that gets you out of measuring the resistance cheaper than doing the measurement) at the entrance and the same at the mobile home. Given it's not a huge expense, buy 6 and sink a pair at the pedestal as well to be sure. No points off for doing more than the minimum.

I have 5 or 6 and a 100 foot well casing on a single service entrance, personally.


Using spare red insulated 10 gauge wire as a ground

Keep in mind that you can't use wires pulled out of cable because the insulation is not marked. You also have to have all splices inside a junction box.
But to answer the question, you can't use a red wire for ground, but you can strip all the insulation off the conductor because a bare wire for ground is OK.  It might take a few minutes depending on the length and the tools at hand.


Gas range has the wrong burner try to ignite

In my experience, most spark ignition ranges spark all the burners at the same time.

So, it's probably just an issue with that burner not sparking - spark gap shorted out with food is the usual cause. Broken wire is possible but much less likely.

Try looking at the left front burner spark (which you see when trying to light the front right) while lighting each of the back burners. I'll bet it sparks for both of them, too; and I'll also bet the back burners will spark while you are lighting the front ones - you probably just haven't looked for that before.


Is there a safe alternative to electrical grounding for computers in Argentina?

I came across this APC product page for Microsol Isolator Modules, which purportedly provide "safe power in places with poor or nonexistent grounding."

This is probably an isolating transformer, which ensures no current can flow to ground, even if you touch the live wires. The only way to get shocked is to touch both the output live and neutral. Requires a rather bulky, heavy, expensive transformer, though.

  If I used a bootleg ground in combination with a GFCI outlet, would the GFCI kill the neutral end of the socket and prevent current from being pushed from neutral to "ground" to my equipment?

The main issue with this, I believe, is that neutral and live may be swapped somewhere - this would make your chassis live. There may also be a slight difference in the neutral voltage, due to voltage drop. As such, it's preferable to leave the ground floating, and trust the RCD/GFCI to trip if something goes wrong.

  Ground is tied to neutral at the service entrance but nowhere in the walls. Is there some other kind of second circuit breaker or box I could install in my room with a computer and ups that would be more like what's at the service entrance and less like a bootleg ground?

It would be electrically the same as a bootleg ground, really. Unless you added another ground electrode.

  When testing outlets at home, I can see the voltage spiking to 1000 volts on my multimeter every few seconds, but only on some outlets (all are single-phase, 220v). What other kinds of voltage regulators will work without ground? Most of my electronics are dual voltage, so ideas including transformers that step down to 110-125v would be fine too.

The best place to put a surge protector is in your main switchboard, because it covers everything and has the best ground. You should be able to get surge protectors specifically intended for here.

  Can I hook a voltage regulator up to a GFCI outlet and then hook a UPS into the voltage regulator to deal with nuisance trips from the GFCI and avoid hard drive failure? Can I still get surge protection without ground?

I don't think the surge protectors are anywhere near as effective without a ground. You also need to make sure all the other cables going to your PC (especially coax internet) go through it.

  There's a grid of galvanized steel cables, spaced about one foot apart and set into the concrete walls outside which are there to hold up a grapevine. The cables are about the same gauge as a fence, maybe slighly thicker than the copper electrical wires in the wall. If I get good readings on the multimeter, can I use that as a ground? Will it electrocute the neighbor's cats who climb up on the vines or burn the grapevine? What would "good readings" (volts/ohms) be from the multimeter?

If they're connected to the reinforcing bars in the concrete, this could be a good ground. Remember to tie the neutral to your grounding rod - without this bond, it's almost useless.

There isn't an easy way to test that it's a good ground.


Can I run stripped Romex/NM through conduit?

The wires in NM aren't labeled for use outside the cable jacket, and may not be the correct type for use in conduit to begin with
First off, the wires inside a NM cable are not marked or labeled at all, which automatically makes them unsuitable for use in a conduit wiring method, as NEC 310.120 requires conductor insulation to be marked/labeled with the correct insulation type letters, the rated voltage, the wire gauge, and the manufacturer.
Furthermore, the wires in NM are not required to meet any of the type standards in Table 310.104!  In fact, while UL 719 section 4.4.1 permits the use of THHN type insulation on wires in NM cables, it also permits the insulation on said wires to meet the standards for type TW wire.  It even allows cablemakers to use an insulation material that's not PVC at all, provided it's electrically and mechanically comparable to type THHN insulation and meets the aging requirements set out in UL 1581 Table 50.144.
As a result, you have to treat the individual wires in NM as if they were "mystery meat"; once they have departed the cable jacket, they can only live within a single box, either as wires emerging from a cable that enters the box or "shucked" from their jacket for use as pigtails or jumpers that never leave the confines of said box.


Help identify a ceiling mounted fluorescent light cover

You may be overall better off looking at replacing the fixtures with something different rather than stressing out trying to find an matching cover. It is fairly easy to source fixture covers that look more like this:

These also more of a contemporary styling as well.

Another thing to consider is the replacement to LED technology for the energy savings that it offers.


Is tape applied to drywall right after mud is applied or after it has dried?

Paper tape you apply mud first then bed the paper tape with mud still wet.

Apply a thin layer of mud slightly wider than width of tape
Lay tape over seam
Scrape the paper tape with a taping knife to bed the tape. A thin layer of mud will cover the tape in the process.
Feather the edges of the mud with a wide knife (10" - 12")
wait until dry and scrape down any ridges or unevenness with the taping knife
Apply a wider layer of mud over top and smooth it out and feather the edges.
Preferably repeat steps 5 and 6.

Fiberglass tape you apply before any mud.

Edit: One more tip....

For small patches like that I usually only worry about feathering the outside edges and will feather it out that edge to the width of my largest knife (12" I think.) When I'm done with that edge and everything is dry I'll come back and fill in the entire inside area over the patch with mud and level it out to the height of the mud over the tape. It makes the repair less noticeable. Instead of having a large outline of a rectangle of raised mud you have a square that blends in better.


If you  can't clean the smudges off I would seal the stain. I would use Bin or Kilz or other similar product. They are a shellac like product that seals the stain. This is important to keep the stain from bleeding through the new paint. After the sealer has cured you can prime and paint.


How to get rid of mosquitos at my front door?

mosquitos are attracted to carbon dioxide, install a carbon dioxide mosquito trap, like the ones with yeast or with propane tanks.


What's wrong with the wiring in this light switch box?

So yeah, like Jack says, supply comes in from lower left: red hot, black hot sharing neutral. The upper right is switched-hot to a lamp.

The upper left carries switched-hot to a lamp, but it also carries unswitched hot on black to other outlets downline.

Important fact: Neutrals don't have breakers. The entire concept is that the hot breaker limits the current that is possible on neutral. Neutral wires are the same size as the hots.  The shared neutral arrangement is called a multi-wire branch circuit.  Breakers 9 and 21 are both returning current on the same neutral wire.

"But wait a minute, Harper. If each hot is rated 15A, and the same neutral is returning current for both of them, doesn't that mean the neutral is flowing twice as much current, up to 30A?  That's way too much since that size wire is limited to 15A."  Bingo.  That is exactly what is happening in your panel.

"So how is that thing ever supposed to work?"  It relies on the use of multiple phases, and the simplest is the North American 120/240V scheme, with opposite poles.  If the two MWBC phases are chosen to be opposite, then something cool happens.  Imagine black amps as + amps and red amps as - amps.  If black has "+" 15 amps, and red has "-" 10 amps, how much does white carry?  +15-10 = 5 amps.  Only 5 amps.  In fact you can try any value for black or red 0-15 amps, and neutral never exceeds 15 amps!

However, this requires the black and red wires be on opposite poles.  Let's look at how service panels are laid out.

Now if you look at how your breakers are positioned, it's perfectly clear they're on the same pole, because they're two rows apart.

This also totally ignores another rule that applies to Multi-Wire Branch Circuits: The handles of both breakers must be tied together so they are shutoff together.  It does not matter if they trip together, but any scheme that ties them will make them trip together most of the time.

So, the breakers need to be rearranged and replaced with either a 2-pole breaker (Siemens), or you must obtain a Siemens/Murray handle-tie.   Then, you must rearrange the panel so the 2-pole or tied breakers can be on adjacent rows in the same column.


Filling in holes in a wooden porch frame made by bees

Here are two that come to mind:

Drill the tunnel out to a larger, perfectly round shape. Glue a piece of wood dowel into the hole as a plug. It's not necessary to completely fill the hollowed space -- it would be good enough to make the plug as little as 1/4 inch thick.
Obtain or create some sawdust with a color similar to this wood. Mix it with epoxy, press it into the hole, and place plastic packaging tape over the hole to hold the epoxy (prevent it running out) until the epoxy has set.


Alternatives to signal on power for home automation systems (such as UBP) - low-voltage circuits, wireless...?

X10 (and other power line communications) signals can travel back up to the transformer, and they can interfere with other systems which are connected to that same transformer.  You can purchase a "signal blocker" to prevent the signal from making it back up the line, but these will typically need to be installed in the breaker panel (which may or may not be DIY for you).

In general, most new home automation products use wireless transmission protocols.  There are several standards out there, but the main players are Insteon, Z-Wave, and Zigbee.  More or less, these options are very similar.  They are low power RF protocols, centered around a "mesh network" scheme.  All nodes can transmit and receive commands, and signals can be re-broadcast to other nodes which may be out of range of the original signal.

Insteon - This is a proprietary protocol, designed to address the shortcomings of X-10 Basically a hybrid between X-10 and a full wireless solution.  Signals are broadcast wirelessly, and also over the power line.  There is support in the protocol for data encryption, but in general it is not supported by the hardware.  Without the encryption, commands can be intercepted and spoofed by an attacker.  You also have the same powerline problems that are present in X-10.

Z-Wave - This is also a proprietary protocol, but is completely wireless.  There is no encryption of the transmitted data.

Zigbee - This is a standards based (IEEE 802.15.4-2003) wireless protocol.  It uses an encrypted communications channel to communicate between nodes (AES 128 bit).  Generally speaking, this is the most secure of the 3.

All of these protocols are relatively widespread, with several companies producing controllers and modules which support one (or more) of them.

Given that you seem to be concerned about the security of your automation system, I would likely choose either a Zigbee system or an X-10 system with a signal blocker installed.  The X-10 system will likely be cheaper, but depending on the hardware you purchase and your specific electrical setup, the system may or may not be completely reliable.


What are these vents in the foundation mortar for?

They appear to be weep hole covers. Weep holes today usually consist of a vertical slot; the result of not putting mortar in a joint. This might have been a retro-fit to address a moisture problem since they are not evenly spaced and are round, which would make sense if holes were drilled in the brick for drainage.

Weep holes are vital to prevent rot of the structural wood framing that's probably on the other side and to minimize moisture inside the brick wall that can freeze and crack the brick in cold climates.

Couldn't find a definitive article with picture but here's more on drainage of brick walls.


You need a structural analysis that considers the load on the roof, ceiling load, and the proposed swing load. Way too many variables to address here. If you can’t handle the structural analysis, you can do it the old fashioned way. Put a piece of plywood across the ceiling members and add 50 lbs and measure the deflection. Keep adding weight to 1.5 times the weight you plan on the swing. Don’t exceed 3/8” deflection at the center of the room.

My gut tells me that your roof won’t support the load without truss support to spread the load.


Open hot in the garage feeder
What you are seeing points to a break, or open, in one of the hot wires going from the main panel to the garage.  With the all-too-common setup of a directly buried cable, this isn't all that uncommon a failure mode.  I'd first turn the breaker going to the garage off and undo and redo the terminations on both ends of the cable with an inch-pound torque wrench set as per the labeling on the devices.  If retorquing the connections doesn't fix the issue, then I'd be suspecting a broken underground wire, say due to a rodent chewing it.  An electrician might be able to locate the break with special tools, but otherwise, it requires replacing the feeder outright, preferably with individual wires in a buried conduit, which isn't as likely to get gnawed to bits.


Is an interior disconnect required for an AC unit?

YIKES!!! The ground wire is connected through the L2 connection on the disconnect! You need to go through every box and device and verify the grounds are securely grounded and not switched.
We can't see the whole system and there may be circumstances not seen, but it appears it could be eliminated. One caution is that the HACR rating on the breaker is only applicable to AC equipment that the label says breakers are acceptable for protection. If the label only says "Maximum fuse size" the a fused disconnect is also required.


How to apply silicone to an edge (tidily)

There is a little gap between the coating of the top and the coating
of the side

First is to make sure the "coating" is securely glued down.
I use painter tape to mask off any area that i do not want caulk on, put the tape right up the the edge of the gap on both sides.
Apply the caulk with a caulk gun, careful to not apply too much. I then dip my finger into denatured alcohol or water and smooth the caulk wiping away any excess. Smooth again, pull the tape off, Then lightly smooth any anomalies. (Takes practice to get the right touch)
A photo of the edge may provide info for more advise or for alternatives to caulk.