How to avoid wires when drilling into the wall?

This is something that you have minimal control over.  Most electrical runs going horizontally are about 2 feet off the floor or very close to the ceiling.  There are lots of reasons for this but one of the obvious ones is it limits the areas of concerns when drilling.

Also for horizontal runs there should be a little slack where an anchor would just push the wire out of the way.  For vertical runs these are stapled to studs on one side or the other.  So just hit the middle of the stud.

Really two things that help me investigate walls if I am worried are monkey hooks and my magnetic stud finder.  With the monkey hooks you can prick a wall for a good two inches plus while causing almost no damage.  You can easily "feel" something if you hit plumbing, electrical, insulation, whatever.

With the magnetic stud finder you can use the drywall screws to find your on center of your framing members.  With a spare yardstick or 2x4 and a couple of screw points you can find the center of a stud the drywall is attached to.  From there you can assume that there is a 1-2 inch "don't screw" zone on each side.  As usually the only issues you will have with anchors is screwing into something tightly stapled.  Even screwing into a wire ran through a bored hole would be hard because unless the hole is really small or there are a lot of wires the screw will push the wire out of the way.

Note:  For a heavy bookcase I would rely on an L bracket using toggle anchors - pictured below - in the wall.  My reasoning for toggle anchors is that other anchors could effectively strip or lose binding but in effect stay in place because the shelf hasn't moved enough.  You don't want to find out that your anchor has stripped when you climb up to get something off a top shelf.  The toggle anchor won't give you a snug connection but you don't need it to be hardcore snug, you need it to work.  (also note that the toggle anchors usually don't have a sharp tip, therefore making it ultra hard to damage wiring)

+++ This answer was meant for anyone dealing with wood/metal framed walls.  This would include most people in USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, parts of Mexico, parts of Asia, most dividers in large apartment buildings.  The safe zones for drilling are usually the same no matter the country but the depth of the wiring and how it is secured is not.  As for safety I would still offer that a prick test is better than any voltage meter I have ever used.  If I was afraid of the prick going through the electrical conduit after going through a cinder block I would simply cover the tip (rubber, plastic, chewing gum).


What are the best practices for taping a window for hurricane protection?

If you can't cover them with shutters, then just leave them as is. It's just a waste of time and money to tape. Tape will NOT prevent them from breaking and if they do blow out, many smaller pieces cause less damage than fewer larger pieces.

Taping windows can create larger and deadlier shards of glass when winds blow through a home, said Leslie Chapman-Henderson, president and CEO of Federal Alliance for Safe Homes.
"The shards can become bigger because they're being held together," Chapman-Henderson said. "You're wasting your time. You're wasting your money and you're potentially increasing the danger to your home."

CBS News article
NOAA Hurricane Center FAQ
Snopes (see the bullet points a ways down)
Palm Beach Post article


Help with bathroom timer and light switch install

Wire it like this:

It's very straightforward, except that the timer-switch requires a neutral connection (to its white wire), and the timer-switch has wires coming out of it instead of having screw terminals.

The timer-switch switched-hot is the red wire, and this should be connected to the black wire in the right-side cable, which leads to the fan.


Why would my fuse box trip if I've already tripped isolation circuit I'm working on?

Was this a neutral wire?  (blue or if older, black)

The RCD is comparing current flow on "hot" vs current flow on "neutral" (return).  They should be the same.

You notice on multiple circuits with multiple trips (breakers), only the hot is switched.

It's sloppy, but sometimes people wire neutrals so they are shared among multiple circuits. Most people consider that a wiring fault.  This doesn't work if each circuit has an individual RCD (like here in the States, and that gets many people converting to GFCI here).  However with a whole-box RCD, it's possible to get away with multiple circuits in that same box sharing a neutral, and the RCD would be none the wiser.  That may be exactly what happened.

In the USA, because of this problem, we have a rule that neutrals must be pigtailed when (intentionally) shared among multiple circuits.  That way, only a single neutral wire comes to the apparatus, and it can be removed without interrupting the neutral for those other circuits.  UK doesn't use wire-nuts, and the lighting fixtures provide terminal blocks with multiple neutrals, so that passively discourages you from pigtailing.


1.5hr is normal drying time for condenser dryer? Miele

For other who came to this thread... I contacted Miele, and the service rep responded to say 1.5hr is normal for a condenser dryer like mine.


Installing a GFCI Outlet with two neutral wires

Electronics folks have a tendency to think in terms of schematics rather than wiring diagrams.  That's because electronics is mostly about semiconductor design, with wiring methods handwaved, since they are generally just traces on a PCB anyway.

Whereas in electrical design, wiring methods are very important, as well as destination of cables. Since it is AC not DC, and high current to boot, we also have to care a great deal about induction and eddy currents, which means that it is vital that currents must  be equal in each cable, and so cable grouping matters bigtime.

As such, we can't just have blacks and whites dashing off-diagram to points unknown.  We must work out which cable or conduit each conductor is part of, and having done that, it's trivial to label the cables.  Do that and you get this:

And that's what the interior of your junction box would look like if you combed its hair.

First thing you notice is all the grounds are tied together.  Your drawing doesn't show that, and I'm worried you'd have created an island, of the lampside ground and one yoke*, which would not ground either of them. The only valid source of ground is the supply cable (barring the rare instance of a retrofit ground).  That tying device is a "wire nut", a basic tool of the trade.  You can also use Wagos, Alumiconns, whatever floats your boat.  Europe doesn't like wire nuts, and some brands are awful, but Ideal brand is excellent.

That extra white wire from the GFCI+outlet to the wirenut is called a pigtail.  This is SOP/standard practice in wiring.  If your GFCI has "Screw-and-clamp" terminals, that's another option.  Never use the "backstab" method, it is not reliable.

I don't know how you got 2 blacks on 1 switch screw. If the wire is continuous and just stripped there, that's fine. It's illegal to connect 2 wires to 1 screw (unless it's labeled saying that is OK) - if in doubt, convert that to a pigtail also.

Did I mention we're obsessed with wiring methods?  It matters when 15A flows through your work.

You may notice the purple area I drew on the GFCI+receptacle combo device. That is the "zone of GFCI protection".  It protects things plugged into its sockets, and wizards can extend that protection to other outlets**.  You wouldn't want to do that here, though, it wouldn't make much sense.

* A "yoke" means a switch or a (2-socket) receptacle, the literal meaning is the steel frame which attaches with 2 screws to the box.

** In electrical, "outlet" means any point of use, i.e. also hardwired devices.  That thing with 2 sockets is a receptacle.


Choosing correct dimmer for halogen bulbs

Is a min-60W dimmer safe with a 40W load

It will be safe - it won't catch fire. But it probably won't dim reliably - it won't predictably control the brightness.

More importantly, it probably won't work well when you inevitably replace the halogen bulbs with LED bulbs.


Constant backed-up water from dishwasher drain

A dishwasher drain requires an air gap in order to function properly. This prevents water that has drained out - and also water coming from the sink/disposal - from coming back into the dishwasher. There are two ways to install an air gap. The traditional way is the drain hose goes up to an air gap device installed in the corner of the sink and another hose goes down to the disposal. Many dishwashers include a long hose and are designed so that the hose can be attached to the underside of the counter as a "high loop". This effectively provides an air gap as the water is pumped out and goes over the top of the loop but can't come backwards to the dishwasher unless the drain/disposal was blocked and water filled up in the sink to the same level as the top of the loop. No special equipment is needed - just a wire or clip to hold the middle of the hose up high. More details and picture at Draining problems in dishwasher. Is this drain setup ok?

The installation instructions for your particular dishwasher FFBD2411NS Installation Manual show the correct installation of the drain hose, but unfortunately don't explain WHY it should be installed that way, so I can see how it could easily be innocently installed incorrectly.


What causes the chirping sound coming from my 250 natural gas meter?

The noise is likely caused by a moving part rubbing its bearing or keeper. Whether or not it's a problem will depend on the meter.

You should contact the utility, and let them decide how to proceed.  In most places the utility owns the meter, and is responsible for maintaining and/or replacing them.


Use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew the hollow bolts to the left and right of the center shaft.  It's a little strange if you've never seen it before, but those are actually barrel screws with internal and external  threads.


How to make my cheap but well sanded wood look glossy

You are looking at the correct products but to get a high gloss several coats will be needed with a very light sanding or steel wool buff and clean in between coats. In high end finishes I put at least 5 coats and have used closer to 30 on show pieces. Light sanding between coats is important, don't over work or you will have bumps , put it on let dry buff clean put more on and repeat. You can make plywood look awesome with a light stain and several coats of polyurethane


Is it possible to self install a grounding rod?

Yes, you can install a ground rod yourself.  They are typically 5/8"-1/2" thick 8' long copper rods, which need to be driven entirely into the ground.  It's common to use a large hammer drill, or small jackhammer, with a ground rod driving bit, to drive the rod.

However...  Driving and connecting a ground rod, is not all there is to grounding an electrical system.  If you really want to do this work yourself. Find a person with knowledge and experience with this, that is willing to teach you. If you can't find somebody, go get a couple books on the subject. Study the books cover to cover, and make sure you understand the information before you begin work.

And no, you do not connect things to the plumbing to ground them. Though you can sometimes use the service plumbing as a grounding electrode, and you will have to bond any metal plumbing within the building.

Grounding isn't about connecting to the earth (dirt), it's providing a safe, low resistance path back to the source (service). While ground rods (and other electrodes) are part of the grounding system, they are not the most important part of the system.


Can I put a thermostat on my wood burning furnace?

Yes: read the manuals here: http://www.woodboilers.com/discontinued-boilers.html  and you'll see some of the issues.

The key difficulties are:

Regulation of a wood-fired furnace is a very non-linear process, and depends a lot on what fuel is already in the furnace and how it is burning.
You don't say what happens when the limit switch gets hit.  Some units need to be manually reset, some don't.
You can burn out the blower if you try to run it when there's no fire in there
If you throttle the blower due to input from the thermostat, you'll get a huge amount of creosote buildup in your chimney.

Most of these conditions fall out if you keep the fire fed regularly and you have a wide boundary between high and low setpoints, and you only run the furnace when it is cold outside.

However, it works far better to burn the wood fairly consistently and use that to heat a gigantic tank of water and to use a thermostat to move that hot water around the house.


Is it possible to patch concrete stairs?

You can't just slap down new concrete. It will never bond. Some options:

1) They make bonding agents for this. Not sure how well they work.

2) vinyl patching compound. Probably your best bet for damages stairs. Not as good as new concrete, but might hold you over for a while.

3) Epoxy. probably the best for small repairs. I use it quite a bit for small cracks and pits.

Without seeing pictures, I'm guessing #2 is maybe what you want to try first.


The fastest solution will be to replace the whole thing. That is what a plumber will recommend.


How do I correctly change hard wired antique wall sconces to plug In with the toggle box

Assuming USA, the cord-end plug you are using (technically called the "cap") should have a wide prong (which correlates with the neutral conductor) and a narrower prong (which correlates with the "hot" conductor).

The switch needs to be wired to only "make-or-break" the hot conductor. In other words, follow the wire from the narrow-prong side of your cord-end plug and connect that to one (either one) of the wires/terminals on the switch. The other wire/terminal on the switch should be connected to one of the wires/terminals on the light socket. The correct socket wire/terminal to connect to is (generally speaking, there are a wide variety of socket designs...) the one that leads to the contact in the bottom/center of the socket where the tip of the bulb-base would contact.

The other (neutral) wire from the cord-end plug would connect directly to the other socket wire/terminal. That socket wire/terminal leads to where the bulb contacts the socket "shell" contact surface.

If this does not make sense to you, you probably should stop. Be aware that converting a manufactured fixture by changing the wiring is fine unless there is a problem and your house burns down because of it. Your fire insurance company will wag their finger; worse, they will likely not cover any losses.


Vertical adjustment slider for VESA mount?

A real cost-effective way to position a slide is to use a screw drive.  These can handle the load, move the payload rapidly and, if geared properly, stay where you put them.

You should be able to make a unit cheaply like so:

(Click an image to see it full-sized)

This would use:

Two good-quality drawer slides.
Plywood for the moving platform, and optionally a plywood base for the whole thing.
3 feet of "all thread" rod (the larger the diameter, the better).
A matching nut or a threaded block for the drive rod.  If a plain nut is used, then you also need some means to affix it to the moving platform.
A reversible motor and gearing.  Old drills, shredders, electric car-window lifts, etc. are good sources for this.  Or you could buy something new.
This is the part that will require most of your ingenuity, as there is nothing off the shelf that I am aware of. But it's not too hard to rig something up if you've a little fab know-how.
If the motor was DC, a power supply for it.  Old computer supplies often put out plenty of juice at 12V, if a 12V motor is used.
A suitable switch for the motor, usually DPDT is required.
Misc hardware, paint, axle grease for the drive screw.


Need an alternate way to install hand-spray bidet on my toilet - can I Tee off the 3/8th input valve?

You should be able to do what you propose because the adapter/valve that came with the unit does not appear to have any sort of pressure regulator built into it, meaning it appears to be designed for normal household pressure (btw this is not the case with all hand-held sprayer units).

Because the consequences of failure could be catastrophic (e.g. flooded house) I would hook it up but closely monitor it for a while to confirm no leakage, hose swelling, etc.

Oh, and turn it off when you go on vacation...


Irrigation sprinkler only comes on for a moment?

You most likely got dirt or other debris in the line going to the faulty sprinkler head during the repair job. I would suggest removing the faulty head and then turn on that sprinker circuit to flush the line out. If there are other heads down stream from this head you should also remove those one by one and flush them as well. Finally take a good look at the "faulty" head and make sure that dirt did not get inside and cause it to malfunction. Most pop-up heads can be disassembled to permit inspection and removal of dirt and grit.


Integrated LED sconce turns on and then immediately turns off

There are 3 types of LED fixtures:

Cheap junk. These can actually make sense in some cases, particularly if easy to replace when they die. A significant percentage will die early, but most will last quite a while and the price is right.
Well-designed from major manufacturers. These make sense for most situations. They might cost on the order of 2x the cheap junk, but they will on average last much longer. More importantly, they are (in my experience) far less likely to have early failure. Anything can be dead-on-arrival - you return it and swap for another. If a light fails after 4 years instead of 5 years, not that big a deal. But if it fails after somewhere between a week and a year, it becomes a royal pain (been there, done that). The major manufacturers are not interested in getting lots of warranty returns and they (generally) build these things to last. (The cheap ones either build a lot of returns into their cost - which tells you the true value of the product! - or disappear before the warranty is up.) This is the best choice for most permanent installations. Unfortunately, I can't post a list of "major manufacturers" here, but it isn't too hard to figure out. If a company has been making light bulbs or electrical equipment for over 100 years, they probably have some idea of how to build things to last.
Designer/"fancy" stuff. This is where it gets tricky. And this is what you have. In the old days, a designer fixture would still (most of the time...) take Edison base bulbs, either regular base or chandelier base. The rest of the fixture, provided it was built to UL/similar standards really didn't matter. It was a base for a bulb and some wires - all totally standard - inside a fancy case that looked really nice (subjectively) and as long as fire safety was accounted for (i.e., not enclosed too much, made from metal/glass, etc.) you could make it look like anything and, after initial installation, there was never any need to go back to the manufacturer. Even if the bulb base or wires went bad somehow, they could usually be easily swapped.

Not any more! It is more efficient, and provides more design options too (since you don't have to provide as much space for actual bulbs) to include integrated LEDs. That includes a driver circuit (which converts from 120V AC to low-voltage DC) and the actual LEDs. There are electronic components, small wires, etc. that can all go bad. Done right, a good LED fixture will last for many years. Ideally, by the time the lights stop working you are ready to replace the fixture anyway for a new design, because you can't just replace the bulbs. The problem is that sometimes the fancy designers are not lighting or electronics experts. That didn't matter in the old days. It does matter now.
My hunch is that the fixtures were designed with relatively low-quality driver circuits. Over time, they fail. And since they are the same model, they fail in the same way.
Replace the Fixtures
Anything else - trying to tear them down to find loose wires, replacing driver circuits, etc. - will be a waste of time/money.


That screw you show is designed to cut its own thread as it enters the hole - the tip has the thread cut almost to the end of the tip to start the cutting process.

As long as the root diameter is fractionally smaller than the hole it is going into then it should be fine - as long as it is perpendicular to the hole it will go in fine, if it goes in at an angle then it will "block" or lock-up before it get fully home.

The ones I have used are definitely designed to be used in metal and the tip is hardened for that purpose.


They are most likely "quick-wired", like the back-stab connections on the back of cheap receptacles.

WITH THE CORD UNPLUGGED, look to see if there are small holes or slots next to where the wire is stuck in. Open a paper clip and insert it into those holes/slots. This should release the wires.


How do I move my shower isolation pull cord switch?

Whether it's a simple job depends on whether you have access to the ceiling space above the bathroom. If so...

Turn off the breaker or remove the fuse. Open up the box enclosing the pull-cord switch, remove it, and in its place attach one end of a length of romex cable (or equivalent) with wire nuts. (Attach the new cable's ground connection too, of course.) Route the other end of the romex out of the box, through the attic and across to the wall where you want the switch, then down through a hole bored in the header, and out a hole in the plaster adjacent to a stud, where you want the new switch. Slip a switch box over the romex an d secure it to the stud. Install a switch there which makes/breaks the connection between the romex's black and white wires, connect the safety ground wire, mount the switch into the box and test.

Recheck your work. In particular, please make sure the wiring colors match up properly, to help protect the next person to work on this circuit.

Close the boxes, plaster, prime, paint.

(Note: I have no idea whether this will meet code requirements. The US doesn't generally have either electric showers or pull-cord switches. In fact, modern US construction puts bathroom light switches inside the bathroom, just as with any other room; the New England area is notably odd in having many houses which use the old switch-outside-the-bathroom arrangement.)


Why do my radiators need to be bleed at least once a fortnight?

I had this issue too. Bled the system once myself, twice with professional plumbers who kept telling me that i didn't do it correctly. Cost me an arm and a leg. The worst part was when i asked a "plumber with 25 years of experience" where the air is coming from he couldn't explain it. Some people were saying it's because i have an old type of expansion tank with the air, others were saying that the water from the city comes with some air.

What solved it is installing "Spirovent Air Eliminator". Not a sound this winter and i could finally sleep without hearing a waterfall.

P.S. Got a few more opinions on this forum


Ground new wiring going into old two-wire outlet?

There is a good chance that the BX (flexible conduit) is being used as the ground back to the source or junction box. Which is fine. Just use the three wires that are shown and go to the switch. If you are going from the switch to a light, then you really do not need the ground anyway. I don't understand the loop from neutral to ground. I'd remove that and connect the ground wire. Obviously there is no GFCI in place.


Connection for C wire on Mastertrol Mark V zone control panel

It appears according to the manual for the Mastertrol Automatic Balancing System (MABS) EZ Zone (EZ-2 and EZ-4) Control Panels (PDF), that M1 is used for C.

Click for larger view
This does not appear to be the manual for your device, so this information may not be correct.
The manual for the MABS 2 Zone Panel (PDF), also shows M1 being used for C.

UPDATE:
After further review, you should be able to connect the C wire directly to the transformer terminals. Measure for Voltage between the T5 terminal of the zone you're working in, and the 1 and 2 terminals in the 24V 40VA Transformer section. One should measure 24 Volts, while the other measures 0 Volts. The one that gives you 24 Volts, should be able to be used as C.


Is it possible to use the ice maker on a refrigerator without a water supply line?

Well I don't know what your budget is, but you could go ahead and get a keg and a compressed air tank and hook it up to the refrigerator! Easy 100psi, it'll make you 15 gallons of ice before refilling the keg (With water. The keg is to be filled with water. In case anyone missed that.)

Anyways now I have an awesome idea to use a fridge as a keg tap, if only I was in college where that'd be necessary.

Parts would be:

1 gallon compressor, for example:

http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-1-Horsepower-1-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0000AQK78/
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D55140-1-Gallon-Trim-Compressor/dp/B000HZJMFM/

3 to 5 gallon keg, for example:

http://www.homebrewing.org/3-Gallon-Ball-Lock-Keg-W-Metal-Handles_p_3431.html
http://www.homebrewing.org/5-Gallon-Ball-Lock-Keg-W-Metal-Handles_p_3430.html

Barbed Liquid disconnect - http://www.homebrewing.org/Beer-Ball-Lock-Disconnect-Barbed_p_2915.html
Barbed Gas disconnect - http://www.homebrewing.org/Gas-Ball-Lock-White-Disconnect-Barbed_p_2916.html
Some food-safe 60psi tubing

Really easy version: Buy an entire homebrewing kit including tank and just put water in instead of beer, hook output up to fridge input.

Easy version: Set regulator of the compressor to 50psi, connect hose directly to barbs of gas in port of the keg. Hook the output port up to the fridge input.

Hard version: Find a used compressor. Experiment with tightening the pressure switch until it turns off at 50psi. Remove compressor motor/pump assembly from tank, hook previous tank input up directly to keg, then keg output to fridge input.


How to effectively and efficiently remove varnish from wood

I've had great results using Citristrip, (see below). I've used it indoors many times and it leaves no fumes. I've used it to strip multiple layers of paint and varnish from furniture.

There are many products to choose from but I know this one works. It just goes on with a brush. Good luck, you took on a big job redoing a staircase.

This product looks similar due to the fact that it is for indoors and is a gel, which is what you need for a staircase. Verity it with the store personnel. It is sold in your neck of the woods.


Which breaker should trip with a ground fault with a subpanel?

Looking at a diagram, is often a good way to understand a problem. Below is a simple diagram that shows the fault current path.

You can see that the fault current will flow through all the breakers, and return to the source (the transformer) along the grounding conductor.
You might be inclined to think that the fault current will be extremely high (tens of thousands of amperes). However, due to the fact that wires have resistance, the current might be surprisingly low.
Without knowing the exact length and size of each wire, it's not possible to approximate the resistance.  If you did have that information, you could calculate the resistance.  With that, the voltage, and Ohm's law, you could calculate the fault current.
For this example, we'll assume the fault current is less than 100 amperes.
Because the current is not above the instantaneous trip level of any of the breakers, the short-circuit protection of the breakers will not trip.  However, circuit breakers also have thermal protection, which opens the circuit based on overheating  caused by current flow (overcurrent).
Each breaker will trip according to it's trip curve, based on multiples of current over the rated current of the breaker.  Basically, as the fault current flows, the thermal protection device in each breaker begins to heat up (along with all the wiring in the circuit).  Obviously the larger breakers (100 & 200 in the diagram) can handle more heat (current), so they're going to be able to handle the less than 100 ampere fault current.
Since the fault current is higher than the rated current of the smaller breaker (20 in the diagram), the thermal protection device will begin to overheat.  With such a high current flowing through it, the device will likely open within a few seconds.  However, if the current was lower, it could take much longer to trip (even minutes).
If we take another example, where we've figured the fault current at 150 amperes. Even though the current is now higher than the rated current on three of the four breakers, the smaller breaker is likely still going to trip first.  This is because the time before the thermal protection of a breaker trips, is based on the the amount of fault current above the rated current.
The fault current is only 1.5 times higher than the larger breaker, but 7.5 times higher than the smaller breaker.  Because of this, the smaller breaker will trip sooner.  Thermal protection is designed this way, so that loads can draw over the rated current, but only for a limited amount of time. This allows things like motors to start, without tripping the breaker.
In most real world applications, the smaller breaker will trip first.  If the resistance of the fault circuit was low, it's possible for the fault current to be above the instantaneous trip level of all the breakers.  In that case, the first breaker (main) will likely trip first.
If any of the breakers are GFCI breakers, and the fault is to ground, the GFCI breaker will trip first.

More realistic example
This example will use the diagram above, but will attempt to estimate a more realistic fault current.  We'll say that there's 100' of 3/0 CU. wire from the pole to the main service panel lugs.  3/0 CU. is 0.0000766 ohms/ft., so that's 0.00766 ohms.
0.0000766 * 100' = 0.0076 ohms
Next there's 50' of 3 AWG CU. from the main panel feeder breaker, to the second panel main lugs. #3 CU. is 0.000245 ohms/ft., so that's 0.01225 ohms.
0.000245 * 50' = 0.01225 ohms
Next there's 25' of 12 AWG CU. from the second panel breaker, out to the fault.  #12 CU. is 0.00193 ohms/ft., for a total of 0.04825 ohms.
0.00193 * 25 = 0.4825 ohms
Now that we've reached the fault, the current has to follow back along the grounding conductor. The grounding conductor is made up of 25' of 12 AWG CU., 50' of 8 AWG CU., and 100' of 3/0 CU. back to the pole.
0.00193 * 25' = 0.04825 ohms
0.000764 * 50' = 0.0382 ohms
0.0000766 * 100' = 0.00766 ohms
Totaling up all the resistances, we end up with 0.16227 ohms.
0.00766 + 0.01225 + 0.04825 + 0.04825 + 0.0382 + 0.00766 = 0.16227
Using Ohm's Law, the fault current can easily be calculated using the formula current = voltage / resistance (I=E/R).
120 volts / 0.16227 ohms = 739.5 amperes
739.5 amperes of fault current.
That's 3.695 times the 200 ampere breaker, which according to a random trip curve I looked up, should trip the breaker between 8-25 seconds. It's 7.395 times the 100 ampere breakers, which would trip between 2-7 seconds.  It's about 37 times the 20 ampere breaker, which is likely beyond the instantaneous trip current level.
In this example, the 20 ampere breaker will trip first (unless any of the other breakers are GFCI breakers).


In a multigang box, can I reduce the pigtails by using one single wire for all hots?

I'm not sure if there's an official term for this wiring technique, but it is certainly an acceptable method of wiring devices.


Is the discoloration on my bed frame rails mold?

This was already answered hours ago by another one of our more experienced users, when you asked this under a different username:

Is this mold? Black? White?

Honestly, it appears to be simple iron staining. Appears black on wood, white on zinc coatings. Simple reaction of carbons in the metal and tannins in the wood. Although it is activated by moisture, it is not a mold, nor harmful.


How long a horizontal run will a condensate pump support?

The "lift" specification of a small pump is the height to which it will raise water above itself. It is another way of specifying the pressure that the pump produces at its output port. It is not a specification of the distance over which the pump will deliver water.
As your ceiling is eight feet high and the Mars-21786 can raise water up to 16 feet, it will satisfy your needs.
You do not need to build sloping drains or use larger tubing starting from 16 feet from the pump. You can run the 3/8" pvc tubing from the pump all the way to anywhere on your property where you can conveniently get rid of the water. A run of 150 feet is no problem, provided that no point in the tubing run is more than sixteen feet higher than the pump.
The effect of a long tubing run will be to slow down the rate of flow. But condensate pumps operate at a very low duty cycle, that is, the pump sits idle for minutes or even hours at a time, then runs for a minute or two to quickly empty its reservoir.
You need to be concerned more with the flow rate than with the output pressure. How much condensate does your equipment produce per hour?
I notice that the flow rate is not given for your model pump, but it certainly does not look like junk, so it will probably perform at least half as well as the more expensive Mars-21780, so 36 gph. Cut that in half for a really long drain tube, that's 18 gph.
The 21786 has a two quart reservoir. If it does what most do and starts when it's half full, it needs to pump about a quart before switching off again. At 18 gph this will take about 1 minute 12 seconds.
I suggest you do this: Run the 3/8" pvc tubing from the pump to whatever drain you find convenient, switch the pump on, pour water into the reservoir until the pump starts, and observe the flow at the drain. If anything more than a tiny dribble comes out, you're good to go.


Should I install external basement insulation that does not extend above ground?

Rather than go to the trouble and expense of tying external insulation from below ground to the siding, I'd let them stop with the below ground insulation.  It at least will add a little extra R value.

Then, since your basement is unfinished, but you do use it, I'd go ahead and add additional insulation on the inside of the house* - from the ceiling on down, at least to several feet below the external ground level if not all the way down.  (Those extra few feet won't do much on the bottom but they will help some and they won't cost much more...)

*Making sure that any other potential water issues have been dealt with

The key thing with insulation is to get a continuous thermal break.  Even a small gap in the insulation can allow huge amounts of energy loss, and since you are running heat downstairs, while I don't know precisely how to calculate the long term savings, there will be one, and more importantly, your basement will be much more comfortable for year round use.


Why won't my A/C turn on after I replaced the thermostat batteries?

Sounds like you may not have power from the transformer. You can check this using a multimeter, by testing the voltage between the red R wire and the blue C wire.  You should read somewhere around 24VAC, though depending on the system it could be anywhere from about 6VAC to 30VAC.

Most thermostats only use the batteries to power the thermostat itself, LED display, programming, date/time, etc.  Thermostats with a C wire (like yours seems to have), sometimes only use the batteries to remember your settings during a power outage.  The actual power for signalling heat/cool, is supplied by a transformer in the furnace itself (the red R wire). If there is no power on the R wire, the thermostat has no way to call for heat/cool.  In this case you'll have to have an HVAC tech troubleshoot, and possibly replace the transformer.

You could use your multimeter to verify the furnace itself is getting power, though this is slightly more dangerous since you'll have to open the service panel on the furnace. This could put you in danger of electrocution, and should be avoided if you are not familiar with HVAC systems.

The only other thing I can think for you to check, is to look for a serviceman switch and make sure it's in the ON position.  A serviceman switch is a switch on the feed line to the furnace, that allows servicemen to turn the power off to the furnace to service it.  It should be located very close to the furnace, and within line of site of the furnaces service panel. If there is line of sight from the furnace service panel to the breaker panel that feed the furnace; or this is an old installation, you may not have a serviceman's switch.

Your best bet, is to simply call in an HVAC technician to service the furnace.


New washing machine. Why we have to perform a cleaning cycle?

This is the same reason that any dishes or glassware that you buy says to wash it before you use it.  They really try to keep everything clean at the factory and chances are your glasses (or washer tub) are spotless, but they can't guarantee it.

To be absolutely sure your new white sheets don't end up with blobs of gear grease all over them because of a glob that wasn't noticed, they want you to to a hot wash with no clothes.  This cleans the tub and if there's a mechanical problem or leak, you find out with just water rather than 40lbs of wet clothes.

I would do the hot cycle as recommended just to be totally sure.  If you're just doing a load of old towels, maybe you can skip it since you did do a warm wash already.  Heat will help loosen oils and grease which is probably why they specify the 90C wash.


How to Replace Exterior Door & Casing in Old House

The basic procedure for removing a door is: remove casing, remove screws from jamb/brick mold, and push the door out of the hole, brick mold still attached. Unfortunately your situation calls for some more devious tactics. Because the outer molding appears to be part of the transom casing (assuming you're leaving that part alone) you're probably better off not disturbing it. So you have to remove the interior trim, remove any screws that connect the jamb to the substructure, then very carefully prize the jamb away from the outer molding with a bar such as this:

to keep from marring the backside of your brick mold.
Once the door is out, the problem then becomes finding a new door/jamb that fits the opening not just properly but perfectly in order to get the reveals right, which may be a challenge considering how old and...unique your existing door is. If you over come that hurdle, just caulk the backside of the brick mold with sealant (sealant not caulk) and follow the manufacturers instructions for sealing the threshold and all should be well. Cheers!


Called Carrier and talked to a technician. They said it could be transformer or fan motor. They need to be replaced. Will see the company tomorrow.  Keep my fingers crossed.
A technician came. He found out there was a screw between new unit and the return of air duct. He took it out and screwed the two parts together at the base and taped them also. The noise has disappeared since then.


With a solid surface like that, that is sloped a little bit, a few sizable scraps of plywood or short piece(s) of 2X8 under one side is all that would require. I know it sounds sketchy if you haven't tried it, but with a solid sidewalk under it, it will be surprisingly stable. On job sites, I have used rocks, brick, 2X4, anything to get the leg even with the other. Of course discretion is used how these are placed.

If this is something you want to keep handy, a piece of 3/4" plywood, say 2 ft X 1 ft, which should be enough to comfortably set a ladder on, and fasten wood blocks on the underside, one at the low edge and another in the center that are 1ft long as well to level the plywood  "base" for the ladder to set on. You can hang it on the garage wall until needed again.


These are easy to take apart and inspect.  First shut the water off (sounds like you already figured out that part).  Put an open end wrench or adjustable straight-sided wrench on the big nut, called a packing nut, and counterclockwise to remove.  Should not be very tight but be careful anyway, do not want to damage the soft brass nut.  Carefully remove nut and the valve stem.  At the bottom of the stem should be a small disc and attached to that disc a round rubber washer with a screw.  This should be smooth and undamaged.  Look down into the faucet and you will see a round flat area machined into the brass, this is the valve seat and will match the rubber washer, this should be smooth and undamaged also.
Look at the stem just under the packing nut.  Probably have a rubber washer, likely somewhat cone shaped.  This is called the packing washer. You can slide this up and down the stem a little bit, should be close fitting, the stem should be perfectly round and smooth, and the packing washer should be round and smooth and should fit nicely into the top of the faucet which should also be round and smooth.
If any of these parts are not fitting together nicely, or any kind of damage, that could be causing your problem.  An internal manufacturing error is cause for getting an exchange.
To reassemble put the stem assembly back into the faucet and hand thread the packing nut so you know the threads are properly aligned.  Use the wrench and tighten just a little, maybe 1/2 turn, does not need much force.  Turn the valve handle to insure it turns, then close it all the way.  Turn on the water supply.  Check the valve function, should turn freely but with a little bit of resistance.  If a bit of water seeps out between the stem and the packing nut then tighten the packing nut a little, maybe 1/8 of a turn.  The packing nut squeezes the rubber packing washer around the valve stem.  The goal is to get the packing nut just tight enough to prevent water from coming through the stem but no tighter -- too tight and there is too much friction to turn the valve.
If still not functioning well, perhaps there is some manufacturing problem not visible to the eye.  May just have to exchange it.
Personally, I just changed 2 old hose valves on a house I bought, and put in stainless steel full flow ball valves.  Gives much better water flow and should last practically forever.


If I understand correctly, you have a GFCI device on the end of a power cord attached to a fan - i.e., the GFCI was provided with the appliance and is not built in to the building. Assuming that is the case, there are two possibilities:

Failure of the GFCI
A ground fault in the device

If the GFCI has failed - and they can fail - then replacement makes sense. However, I think more likely is that there is a ground fault somewhere in the fan. A ground fault could include wiring (e.g., starting with cracks in the cord insulation), motor damage, switch damage, etc. I know of only two ways to get a 100% definite diagnosis:

Replace the GFCI. If the fan works, the problem was the GFCI. If the fan doesn't work, the problem is the fan - in which case toss the whole thing (and in which case you have just wasted a new GFCI module).
Replace the GFCI with a temporary regular plug. Plug the fan in to a GFCI-protected receptacle (e.g., kitchen or bathroom that has been updated to include GFCI) and see if it works. If the GFCI receptacle (or breaker) trips immediately then the problem is the fan - in which case toss the whole thing. If the GFCI does not trip and the fan works, then you should replace the temporary plug with a GFCI module.

I suspect an indoor/outdoor fan has a GFCI included because typical use may include outdoors, in the rain, plugged into a grandfathered non-GFCI-protected receptacle. So bypassing the GFCI protection, except for a very temporary testing procedure, is not a good idea.


Can I branch off my main service, just past the meter base?

Yes.
You can buy a meter disconnect all in one like this one.
I personally would not buy the Leviton  but this is just an example.
You just need to pull a permit and order a disconnect from the city.
Just check with your local authorities that you won't need to upgrade to a 320 amp service.
As far as 2020 code goes you'll need a sticker that says emergency disconnect since this meter has a main breaker.


Add-A-Wire - COMMON / C Wire to a 3 Wire Thermostat

Don't even bother with that goofy multiplexer.  Just get a small 24VAC transformer - 10 VA would suffice (common ones are 40 VA, that's fine too).

On the secondary side, connect one of the transformer secondary wires to R. You do this on the Nest's wall plate, you don't even need to install the Nest proper for any of this.
Now, check the phasing of the transformer.  Measure AC voltage between the remaining transformer wire and the R terminal (the place you just connected the first wire).  Note that voltage, it's gonna be around 24V, because it's coming right off the new transformer.  We just need it for a reference: it should be the highest voltage we see.
Now, measure between that remaining wire and all the other terminals on the Nest one at a time.   All these should be equal or lower.  If any or all of these voltages are higher (you might even see 48V), then you picked the wrong wire in the first step.  Switch wires and start over.
Now that phase is correct, connect the remaining wire to C.
Don't connect any other wires from this transformer to anything else. Don't connect C to anything but this transformer.

If someone rewires the furnace, changes the furnace or replaces or rewires the furnace's transformer, I would redo this phasing step in 2-3. The idea is to have these transformers work alongside each other, not "stack" to 48V, which asks a lot of the insulation on the Nest and technically violates the low-voltage wiring rules.  (I'm sure it's built for that, but why tempt fate).


Rules for wiring and conduits on basement ceiling with or without drop ceiling?

Let's start with reconstructing your question to: If I am remodeling a room or area, Do I need to bring it up to code?

Answer: Yes

In general most buildings are covered under a grandfather clause. This means that if your house was built in 1968. Then your house was covered by either the 1965 or 1968 NEC (depends on start of the house and acceptance of the code by AHJ). For many reasons most AHJ allow that home to be covered under that code for perpetuity until you make changes to the original wiring in the form of replacement or remodel. so you could have a residence that was remodel three times and that means you house would fall under 3 different code versions. In this state they also have a 50% clause, meaning if it is determined by the AHJ that the remodel is 50% or more then the entire residence must be brought up to code.

In conclusion you question isn't really about what you might do during remodel but the very fact that you are remodeling requires you to bring the area up to code. I also recommend that is if you have questions about what the updates need to be. You contact them and ask. Remember, you are a taxpayer and these guys work for you and I have always found them to be friendly and are concerned about protecting you not making your life miserable. So communicating with them before you perform any work will help you to install everything properly and save you quite a bit of time, money and anguish when you have to tear it out and redo it (always the expensive method).

Hope this helps


Stop turning on stuff, when you do not know why. They left one outlet to work with. Pulled the wires are coming back to finish. Now you have stuff on were someone can get hurt, drywallers painters all think wires are dead. And i hope the electrician knows you did this. Or you can add him to the list. Why would anyone do that i do not know.


Why am I reading 20V at the receptacles on one household branch circuit?

Check the power on the wires themselves coming into the first box. If you have low voltage there, then you have a problem in your wiring between the service panel and the first outlet and you'll probably have to pull new wire.

If the voltage on the wire itself coming in to the first box checks out, then check the connections in all three of the boxes that those receptacles are in. Maybe you have a bad connection in the first one, and it's affecting the other two that are "downstream" from it. If you're wiring through the receptacles, check the little metal tabs on the sides of the receptacles to make sure they aren't cracked or missing.

If you're using the press-in connections on the receptacles, try the screw down connections. Electrical connections must be tight. Also consider pig-tailing the connections with wire nuts inside the boxes, so that the electricity to the downstream boxes doesn't have to go through the receptacles at all. Unless this is a GFCI-protected circuit, in which case the downstream receptacles must be fed through the GFCI receptacle. But in that case I'd still prefer the screw-down posts to the press-in connections.

It's also possible that one or more of the receptacles themselves are just faulty (broken internally).


Why does my light switch have 2 wires on the top?

Usually this is because one wire is supplying the power and the other wire is tied into  it in order to take the power on to be used elsewhere.

Another way this is accomplished is that the two wires, plus a third "a pig tail" are all tied together with a wire nut and the pig tail goes to the switch.


Is a 150 watt LED suitable for a pendant fixture?

The manufacturer wisely states that their bulb should not be used in a fully enclosed fixture. (this is true of incandescents as well.) (it is always a bad idea to trap heat) However if you are replacing your old incandescent bulb with an LED you will need about 1/6 the wattage to produce the same lumens. (the actual brightness of light emitted). A 25-watt bulb LED will replace a 150-watt incandescent. Regarding the seeming contradiction you see in the lamp instructions; it is possible to have a globe type fixture that is vented.  They just don't want their bulbs in a non-vented globe fixture.  It shortens the life of the bulb.


Dangerous to use water heater which activates circuit breaker?

It is probably "safe". However, a problem which results in an overcurrent trip on one breaker might be causing damage to the related equipment (heating element, relays, etc.) in a way that doing so repeatedly (even for a week) might result in other parts of the heater breaking. Nearly impossible to tell, especially over the internet, as there are a lot of variables involved.
If it is possible to run the heater with that phase (leg) off, then that may be a temporary solution. However, depending on design that may not work at all, or it may result in the other heating elements running at a higher duty-cycle and cause other problems.
This is one of those situations where a few extra $ for fast shipping may be worth it.


Can a regular rasp be used to enlarge a hole in concrete?

The metal on a wood rasp would be way to soft to make any type of dent in the concrete.  The only thing you will do is destroy the rasp.

You should use a roto hammer with the proper sized bit to widen the hole.


How do I wire a new range to old wiring?

You need to swap the cord on your range for a 3-pin range cord (NEMA 10-50) and configure the bonding jumper appropriately, then install a NEMA 10-50 receptacle for your stove.  (This is allowed for existing branch circuits, just not new ones.)


I need to hang a mirror above a vanity, with plumbing running down alongside the stud. How do I make sure I hit the stud, and not the pipe?

Use the stud finder across a wider swath of wall. Using a pencil, removable tape, or other method mark the edges of every stud you can find, including the possible edges where the mirror should hang. Measure the spacing of several studs. Do you find two or three that are spaced the same - 16 inches, perhaps? Builders like to place the studs with consistent spacing.
Does one of the "maybe a stud, maybe a pipe" markings follow the spacing pattern you observed with the other studs? If so, that's where your stud is.
You could also look inside the vanity. The pipe emerges from the wall in there, right? Measure how far it is to some reference like an adjoining wall. The pipe will probably go straight up from there, so you can use the same measurement up at mirror level to identify where the stud isn't.


Mounting articulating Arm for TV (43”) to wall with metal studs

An articulating arm swings away from the wall and this creates different forces than just attaching directly to the wall. You didn't note the distance that it can articulate nor the weight of the TV nor the vertical distance between the bolts of the bracket to the wall and all are factors that determine the 'moment' and therefore the force of the tension / compression affect at the wall (consider using your hands to hold a piece of plywood up vertically by the edges, you'd have to push out at the bottom and pull in at the top, as well as lift up the weight of the plywood to keep it in place).

For metal studs the critical element is most likely the flange or face that the dry wall and bracket are attached to, it will bend out of plane, in and out of the wall, likely before the stud as a whole would fail. What resists that is the thickness of the metal. The force required to bend the flange likely isn't high. Metal stud design is COMPLECTED and there are MANY different types (some are very flimsy) and of those the least expensive is chosen, that is, the one with just enough strength to do the purpose.

With that in consideration, and that you have access to the back of the wall then I suggest attaching directly to new full height wood studs. You can easily locate the studs by first determine where the bracket needs to be located based on where you want your TV, drill holes through the dry wall as if you were going to attach it, but don't yet of course. On the back side, use those holes to located the new studs.

Strong and easy peasy.


Is it OK if my Durock cement board got wet?

Durock and similar cement-based products are designed for uses where it may be exposed to water.  It's not waterproof but it will not disintegrate or lose its strength when wet.

You should allow it dry thoroughly, however, before using it.


If you can't pick it yourself, or find a key that works, make an appointment if needed & carry it to a locksmith with a shop (avoiding the usually expensive part of having the locksmith come to you) and they can almost certainly do it.
The usual latch arrangement (a latch bolt going straight up into a hole/catch in the frame, from the key area) will cause significant visible damage if you force it open.


Is there an interior bathroom filter made to exhaust filtered air back into room?

A bathroom fan needs to vent to the outside, so as to actually remove moisture effectively.

While you could cobble something up with a dehumdifier, there's no good reason to, and plenty of good reasons not to; Which is why you won't find that for sale anywhere.


Building work on concrete in a very wet environment - natural spring

You want hydraulic concrete.

Hydraulic concrete is a concrete that will bond to other surfaces when wet, and cure when wet.  It can even be used underwater.

This page will give some guidance on how to apply.

Given the nature of hydraulic cement I'm thinking that your best bet is - in a dry place, build something that you can put in place to divert the water. Test it by "dry" (haha) fitting it against the spring (if thats the word), and once you're satisfied that it will divert the water properly once sealed, clean the wet space (Pressure washer, lose the moss and stuff) then seal in your diverter system with the hydraulic cement.


What's the efficiency of extruded polystyrene foam for roof insulation?

An easy method for simulation is offered on the site www.ubakus.com.
It is worth to play around with width and materials before planning or construction work begins.
Parameters like dew points,  moisture and drying time can be seen in seconds, thus disclosing any critical layer combination that could produce mold and damage to the building.
And of course the U or R value are calculated, which might be important for subsidies. F.e. some EU countries demand an U value for  public subsidies.
Best way is to open a roof example and change/add layers. Each layer's width can be decreased/increased  and the layer can be switched on/off by a click to instantly see any changes.
The outside temperature and humidity levels (winter average) should be adapted.


Assuming that you have one-by (3/4" nominal) fascia, I'd install steel wraps. They're commonly used in my area's harsh climate for an attractive, maintenance-free finish. Two sizes are available (for 6" and 8" fascias), but you could trim the top edge as needed for non-standard heights. The only preparation you'd need to do with your existing fascia would be to flatten out any warpage and replace any rotten areas with raw pine lumber.

Be aware that this product is installed by sliding it under a metal roof edge, and that it's nailed upward from the bottom along the narrow edge. Nailing the face (other than at joints, where needed) results in dimples that stand out in certain lighting conditions. Lap pieces such that the lap is less visible from entryways, etc., and so that water flows properly on rakes.


What is the purpose of these holes on my wire stripper?

PLIERS
Used as pliers.
Stripper
80 - 22/20
Strip 22-20 AWG (.8 mm) wire.
1.0 - 18
Strip 18 AWG (1.0 mm) wire.
1.3 - 16
Strip 16 AWG (1.3 mm) wire.
1.6 - 14
Strip 14 AWG (1.6 mm) wire.
2.0 - 12
Strip 12 AWG (2.0 mm) wire.
1.6 - 10
Strip 10 AWG (2.6 mm) wire.
CUT
Used to cut wires and cables.
LOOP
The loop hole is used to bend hooks in wires, so that the wire can be attached to screw terminals.  Place the tip of a stripped wire into the hole, and bend the wire around the body of the tool.
Screw/Bolt Shearing Holes
The other holes in the middle of the body, are screw/bolt shearing holes. They are used to cut small screws/bolts to length. To use them, simply thread the screw/bolt into the proper sized hole to the desired length, then squeeze the handles together. The screw/bolt will be trimmed, without damaging the threads.
CRIMP
INSUL AND NON-INSUL
This means that you can crimp insulated and non-insulated crimp terminals
16 - 10
This means the tool can crimp insulated and non-insulated 16-10 gauge crimp terminals. The colors below represent the color of the insulated crimp terminals, for quick reference.

Blue = 16-14 Gauge

Yellow = 12-10 Gauge

22-18
This means the tool can crimp insulated and non-insulated 22-18 gauge crimp terminals. The colors below represent the color of the insulated crimp terminals, for quick reference.

Red = 22-18 Gauge

INSULATION ONLY 7 - 8MM AUTO
This means the tool can crimp insulated 7-8mm auto ignition wires (spark plug wires).


Storage of portable (but bulky) power tools

I'd be tempted to keep them in the garage, where it sounds like they could be used in a pinch, even though its cold. I don't think the cold would hurt them.


Is zeolite effective for controlling room odor?

For an odor absorbing material to have a realistic effect, air will need to pass over/through the odor filtering media. Zeolite does remove certain odors, but not as well as activated carbon. You should be able to find both zeolite and activated carbon air filters for furnaces at a hardware store. If you don't have a furnace, or it is a summer-time issue, then perhaps you could construct an air filter by duct-taping a filter to the back side of a box fan. Cut a 12" hole in the filter directly behind the motor so that the motor doesn't overheat.
Also, cyclodextrins (like hydroxypropyl beta cyclodextrin found in Febreeze) can trap odors.


How do I fix this poorly designed double-rod towel rack?

I would get a long threaded bar cut to length to use the existing threads in the end brackets.
Seems to be the simplest option and only needs cutting to length.


How should I pretreat painted plasterboard before gluing fiber cement sheet over it

I'd sand it lightly and wash it thoroughly afterwards to get any particles off, you'll get better and longer-lasting adherence.


Thread extender/nut for basin waste with gap in thread

Use a piece of tubular material (like a cut section of pipe), along with a couple large washers, as a spacer.


Crooked compression fitting: leave be or replace again

If it doesn't leak it's OK. It looks square where it goes into the compression fitting.

BTW you didn't need any Teflon tape, but leave it alone now. Teflon tape or pipe dope is used to seal pipe threads exposed to fluid under pressure. Certainly in the compression fitting the threads are used to compress a soft metal seal against the tubing and against the harder metal of the fitting; the threads don't have to be water tight.

With the brass adapter to the flexible line, I believe there is a rubber seal in the flexible line that the brass fitting seals against.

The classic junction requiring sealing of threads is normal pipe threads (NTP),  also called IP for iron pipe even when the material is not iron or steel.


You would be better to get a new outdoor socket installed as a spur (if possible) from the existing indoor socket.

When doing this, your electrician will also check that the circuit has RCD protection. Almost all new wiring, and all sockets, must have RCD protection. If your electrical installation is older, you might not have RCD protection to all sockets.

If the inside socket is on the outside wall an electrician will probably be able to go straight through from the back box to the outside, meaning no internal cabling visible and no disruption or redecoration needed.

This would avoid both using an extension lead and removing the plug. Removing and refitting the plug is not itself a problem as in the UK the only type of plug used on domestic equipment is 230V 13 amp square-pin; anything else would have to be hard-wired. The risk is actually physical damage to the lead running it through a hole in the brickwork (especially if you have polystyrene cavity wall insulation, which reacts with PVC electrical cable).

If you want to run a cable through a hole in the wall then an external socket extension kit like this one

https://www.toolstation.com/bg-ip66-outdoor-power-kit/p27175

will provide a weatherproof cover to the outdoor socket, and RCD protection in case you don't already have it. (This or similar products are also available from Argos, Wickes, Screwfix etc.)

A short length of plastic conduit should be used to take the lead through the wall

https://www.toolstation.com/20mm-heavy-duty-pvc-round-conduit/p47063


Can I skim coat a painted interior concrete block wall? If so, with what & how?

Is the wall dry? is the paint in good condition? If it is dry you could use joint compound. If the paint is pealing it would need to be scraped first. I like using mortar on block walls because it holds up to moisture better than joint compound but have not used on painted block. Some don't like mortar because the sand is very rough even after painting.


Concrete retaining wall with lean and crack, looking for input

This site prefers not to provide 'call a professional' answers and I might receive some less positive reception for this answer, but this is a case where I think that it is appropriate.

My suggestion is to hire a local structural engineer to do a site visit and provide you with their opinion of the situation and additionally, if you prefer, a DIY fix solution. I say this because 1) I am a struc engineer and I have done plenty of these types of site visits and often (usually) the result that the issue or fix is NOT what the homeowner or contractor thought that it was (and changes how it is addressed) 2) the quotes you provided are large in comparison to the cost of the review by a struc and it is very likely that you would both get a solution that is less expensive to construct and you are sure that the problem is addressed permanently, you don't have to worry any more about it.

One likely outcome is that less work is required. You have noted that you addressed the water issue. Hydrostatic forces are higher than the soil forces, so more than doubles the load. These things would be considered by the engineer, and they would be on site to consider the individual situation that you have. I would expect the cost to be in a range in the middle to upper middle three digit range for the site visit and even a small change in the cost of the bids you received would more than make up for the initial cost. If nothing else, call one and ask their fee and what they would do for you. A small firm is a better choice over a large one for cost and personal service at this project level. I have no doubt that it would be some of the best money that you ever spent.


Fat aluminum can stay put

Aluminum was only a problem when thin, solid aluminum wires made from the wrong alloy were rushed into branch-circuit service hastily in response to copper shortages.  Fat aluminum wire such as that used for stove and electric-furnace circuits and feeders to subpanels never had such problems, and is quite safe due to the aluminum-alloy screw-lug terminations used with it (vs steel screws and sprung wirenuts).  Furthermore, aluminum wire made since the 70s uses a different alloy that doesn't have the same problems the old, bad stuff did -- this new alloy (AA-8000 series, as it's called) is Code-legal for brand-new work, even.  If some insurance or lending type tries to tell you to rip those fat aluminum wires out "or else", tell them to go read 310.106(B), or ask them what service wires are made from for that matter.

Your panel is 99% fine...until you consider the location

Your panel, while slightly odd (it's a "split bus" or "rule of six" panel as per 230.71(A)'s "two to six disconnecting means" rule), isn't a Code issue by itself save for the double tapped lug, which can be fixed with a pigtail and wirenut as Harper describes (if anyone says you can't do that, tell them to go re-read 312.8).

I can't tell what the weird thing with the LEDs in it is (it might be a whole-house surge suppressor) as I'd need a much clearer photo to see the labeling on it.  Don't worry about it for now, though, as you have much bigger fish to fry: either the idiot who installed your panel put it in a clothes closet, or some other idiot came by and put a clothes closet around the panel later.  Not only does it look like the location violates the 110.26(A) clear working space requirement of 30" side-to-side even if that space is offset, annoying your electrician to no end, this panel was placed in a spot that's a blatant fire hazard.  Overcurrent devices or even panelboards themselves can fail quite spectacularly when pushed beyond their limits, and Code takes this into account in 240.24(D):

  (D) Not in Vicinity of Easily Ignitible Material. Overcurrent devices shall not be located in the vicinity of easily
  ignitible material, such as in clothes closets.

So, either the clothes (and the closet fixtures such as the hanger rod) have to go and stay gone, or the panel has to move, otherwise this installation will get a nice, fat write-up from the electrical inspector no matter what else you do.


Can I lay laminate flooring over top of existing linoleum?

The answer to this is "look at the instructions for the laminate", and see what they say. If you have old-school hard laminate (like you find in schools/government buildings/grocery stores), then it's a nice hard surface and it is fine. If it is resilient flooring (kitchen vinyl), then the answer is read the instructions.

If you have big ridges, I'd probably just grind them down with an angle grinder.


What should I do on the sides of a deck ledger?

I describe my alternate approach at the bottom of this answer

In terms of the picture in the original post ...

For the drip cap, I'd cut it long, then fold it upwards and forward, snipping along its bends to make this possible, then caulk the outside and backside of the corner, and 12" along the top of ledger.  The drip cap can serve one or two purposes.  First - and essentially - it acts as feathering to prevent water from getting behind the ledger and possibly into the house.  Second - and optionally - if it projects out past the ledger (say 2" away from the house), it acts as a drip edge, keeping water from running down the outside face of the ledger.

For the upper undersill trim, I'd cut it long and bend it down over the j-channel.

For the z-flashing, I'd work it the same as the drip cap, and have the J-channel lap over it on the ledger side.  Also I'd have the house wrap lap over the front of the z-flashing ... but if this required cutting the existing house wrap along the length of the ledger, I'd leave the existing house wrap intact and put on 2nd layer, roughly 2x the width of the ledger, slipping the new sheet of house wrap up under the aluminum/vinyl siding as much as possible.

For the joists, I'd notch them on top near the ledger so that drip cap remains continuous, slanting each notch to the side, making sure the top of the notch was smooth.

For joist hanger nails, I'd make sure they were shorter than the thickness of the ledger so that they did not puncture the house wrap.

For the ledger bolts, after predrilling, I'd caulk around each hole on the backside of the ledger, then tilt the ledger up into place and secure with bolts.

For the ledger, I'd keep it 1/2" - 5/8" up off the z-flashing.  I'd also put a small chamfer on the back of the butt ends, then caulk that back corner.  I would not worry about the the front of that joint (between the butt end and the j-channel) being caulked.

For the deck board against the house, as @Jacob commented below (I think), I'd cut a 1.5" x 5/8" bevel on its underside along the edge that is next to the house so that it does not bear on the drip cap.  Alternatively, especially since you indicated in the original post that you will be custom bending the drip cap from coil stock, the top edge of the ledger can be beveled away from the house, contouring the drip cap accordingly. Either way, I'd leave a 1/4" space between the deck board and the drip cap.

If it is compatible with the house wrap, my choice for this type of caulking is butyl because it remains soft and flexible.  It's extremely messy, but not more than a roll of paper towels can handle.

Personally, though, I'd install the ledger in an entirely different manner. I'd gently remove the relevant courses of siding, keeping them intact.  I'd then fill-in their backsides with DIY shape-matching pressure-treated 'clapboards' cut from say 1x4 or 1x6 PT, then reinstall the bolstered siding.  At this point, the house will look just as it did before.  Then at each bolt/screw location I'd install 6" lengths of similar PT 'clapboards' upside down against the siding.  These 6" lengths will create a flat and vertical surface.  At each of these locations, I'd install a scab of pressure treated DIY cut to 1/4" to 3/8" thickness, 4-6" wide and length equal to the width of the ledger, installed with the grain running vertically.  The scabs will hold the ledger away from the siding to allow for drainage. The tops of the 6" lengths and the tops of scabs ought to be tapered left and right to promote runoff.


Where can I find a Time Restricted Keypad Lock?

Schlage has a Schlage Link line of locksets that you may want to check out. It offers remote security if you have a wireless network and an internet connection. The link below is for the Lever lockset starter kit.

http://link.schlage.com/Products/Pages/KeypadLeverStarterKit.aspx

Other options would be to search for locksets under "Home Automation".

Update:  Below is a link to a gateway/controller with no monthly access fees (unlike the Schlage above).  You would need to purchase either Schlage lockset and the gateway/controller.

http://www.micasaverde.com/vera.php


Retractable faucet stopped working suddenly

The issue was fixed by leaving the faucet open for a while. I could be wrong but it seems like there was an amount of air trapped in the pipes. Let me know if this is a symptom of a bigger problem.


Should I build a shield to protect building wire installed inside cabinet?

This is perfectly fine and quite safe. The metal box could even be sitting out in the open and would be just fine. I have a similar setup in one of my kitchen cabinets. The only concerns I know of are:

Drawers - This does not appear to be the case here at all, but if you have a drawer that can bump into a cable when it is opening/closing then that would be a problem.
Loose Cable - Also not a problem here. Even when it is a problem, it is usually not a problem to fix. Cables basically need to be short (as is the case here - just a couple of inches extra which is good in case anything ever needs to be changed) or secure and out-of-the-way (and this is clearly out of the way).


It is possible and should be relatively easy to estimate how much it is expanding based on the coefficient of thermal expansion, the size of the gate and how hot the gate gets.

One other issue you might to look at is movement of any posts supporting the gate. If you have had unusually dry weather for instance this may have caused the ground supporting any posts to move and that could cause a similar problem.


What is the timeline for broken plumbing to cause damage to a house's foundation?

The answer to your question is that there is no answer - there are just so many variables that it's really impossible to answer with anything quantitative.

The biggest variable is how much water is going down the drain.  If you had a clog but very little water usage, it could be days before you saw anything on your basement floor. If you have a family of 8 taking showers every day it will show a lot quicker.

The smells start being noticable when sewage starts backing up on your floor, until then its unlikely you'd notice anything.  Again, this can vary.  If you are just putting fresh water down your drain, it might never smell.  My neighbour didn't notice until they had several feet of water in their basement!

The rate of deteroiration will depend on age and condition of foundation beforehand, temperature, soil conditions, what the house was built on, quality of construction, thickness of foundation, etc.


The damper should be wide open since the wall or duct mounted humidistat (that should have been installed) controls the operation of the humidifier and how much humidity is introduced into the living space. You are right not to agree with your brother since he is not correct. If you have A/C then you close the damper in the summer, otherwise leave it open.
Don't forget that most drum type humidifiers need cleaned at least once a year. I have a drum humidifier and soak the media pad in a bucket filled with vinegar and clean the reservoir pan as well. My humidifier also has a drain to flush the reservoir numerous times during the winter.


When should a waterproof membrane be installed for shower tiling?

Always.

It's a shower. It needs to be waterproof.

A product I've used and liked is RedGard:

You install your backer board, then 'paint' this on. It's basically an adhesive roll-on rubber membrane. You then tile right on top of it.

I like this better than the traditional plastic-behind-the-backer-board for two reasons 1) You can easily put holes in the plastic during construction (screw holes, for instance) and 2) the RedGard is closer to the 'wet side' of the wall, reducing the chances of water getting into the wall.


Need advice making a self-watering moss pole for plant

Your holes are way too big. Dry your PVC pipe and cover the holes with vinyl electrical tape. Then get the smallest sewing needle you can find and just prick the surface of the tape so you get a slow drip. You can increase the drip rate as you go up the pole by making just a slightly larger puncture. Remember, you want drips, not streams.


Find Hidden Problems with Coax Cable in Walls

You might try replacing the splitters.  I had one outside a condo failing in such a way that it caused low frequency signals (<50 MHz) to be severely attenuated but higher frequency signals passed quite well.  The result was that analog U.S. television channels 2 through 4 were garbage, 5 and 6 were snowy, and the cable modem worked very poorly.  In this case, I think the splitters were degraded by flooding (high river levels submerged them for a couple days).


Convert SE panel from two 100 amp breakers to a single 200 amp breaker

No, you definitely can't do that with this meter-main!  You have several choices.
Put only one panel on the ATS
This is the normal approach to this problem.  You pick one panel and make it the ATS-operated panel. Any critical loads in the other panel, you reroute them.
You can also put the other panel on a MTS (manually operated interlock) and those are $100-ish for most panels.
Two ATS's, one for each panel
This is also allowed though at higher cost and complexity, of course.
An ATS that stacks under the electric meter.
Some ATS's have a funny plate that fits between the meter pan and the meter, thus switching the entire service.  That type of ATS will work very well in this instance.
Replace the meter-main with something appropriate
Into the trash goes both the meter and the dual main breaker apparatus. Then you fit a meter-main designed to support an ATS, or a plain meter feeding the ATS which then feeds a 200A panel which has the two 100A breakers in it.


How much should over-the-range microwave stick out?

As much as the microwave needs it to. They almost always stick out some, both forward and below the side cabinets.
Most upper cabinets are ~12" deep. My microwave comes out another 2-1/2" or so beyond the face of the cabinets (without the handle) and hangs below about 2". The top mounting screws are maybe 10" from the wall, so as long as your cabinet has that depth and is robust enough to support the weight, all good.


how to wire a polarized wire to a switch?

Use a remote-controlled wired switch. Quick & easy solution. The inexpensive versions are limited in how much power they can handle, but that is not an issue for LED lights. Something like this:


Should I insulate my roof on the inside or outside?

Commercial flat roofer here with 18 years experience.

I cannot stress enough how useless and incorrect inverted roofs are.
Having the XPS panels ABOVE the roofing membrane continues to be one of the dumbest things that I see on specs.

No matter what the insulation manufacturer tells you, those insulation panels will eventually absorb water. I have removed hundreds of these systems over the years and after 7-8 years of the insulation constantly sitting in water, they begin to absorb it.
And sit in water is what they do, they cover the roof and never allow it to dry.

I have removed inverted roofs with 3" XPS and those 2'x4' panels can weigh up to 20 lbs once they suck up enough water.

Once this happens, all the R-value that they once had is completely negated.

Putting the insulation over the roofing membrane is like putting your car seat on the roof of your car to drive and wondering why your cold and wet.

In most residential situations it is usually better to install 7" ROXUL on the inside between the joists. The only time I see different is if the owner is looking for an exposed ceiling look.
https://www.timbermart.ca/sites/default/files/files/brands/pdfs/us_accordian_brochure.pdf

If that is your case, I would suggest a Ballasted 60mil EPDM system over two staggered layers of 2.6" polyisocyanurate (Poly iso), this will give you an R-Value of 30.

If you are determined to use and inverted system, I would highly recommend installing a dimple or drainage board over the roofing membrane and ensuring you are using XPS panels that have pre-cut reglets in the bottom of them that will help with drainage and help keep the XPS out of the water.
If you are looking for an r-30 you will need about 6" of XPS.


Can't figure out how to replace these MR16 GU5.3 bulbs

The MU16 connectors are a twist type, turn counterclockwise to remove. They often need some effort to turn. There isn't anything physically stopping it from turning other than
friction

The buzzing is either from a dimmer, a bad bulb or electromagnetic (EM) interference. Remove the dimmer if there is one. Verify that the bulb is good. Test for EM interference from other devices by turning off devices in the home until you find the offending item.

Picture: lightbulbwholesaler.com


Honestly I can't see this being the chimney.   I know it looks nice and tight but this is exactly why I wouldn't suggest putting the chimney flashing under the shingles.   You now have a seem that is guarded by caulk and not gravity or a harder material like the nice copper flashing.

So my guess is that the rain came down roof, hit chimney and then entered a hole in the caulking.   Gravity tells it to go to that hole.  Now if flashing is on the outside/over the shingles then the rain has go under the flashing and then over - which is against the laws of nature.   In this scenario a small hole in caulking can go unnoticed for years.


Do I need a moisture barrier between sub floor wolmanit and engineered floating bamboo clip together flooring?

The floating floor needs the thin foam pad for it to function properly and most of the floating floor pads already have a vapor barrier as part of it.  But adding an additional barrier is not needed (unless you have moisture issues).

If you where doing a nail down install (instead of float) I would recommend rosin or tar paper between the the floors.  But it would not be for vapor barrier but to reduce noise between the two floors rubbing.


Neutral's on the far left, Switched Live is on the far right, Earth is at the bottom
Looking at your ceiling rose and the mixture of old-UK and IEC color coding present there, we can tell from the combination of two blacks and a blue going into the far left block that it's the Neutral (Return) side of this ceiling rose.  Given that we know the fixture can't be connected to the Always Live (because the switch works), that puts the Always Live in the center, with the blue wire connected to the Always Live being a hot feed down to the switch, which was wired using plain IEC-coded T&E (brown, blue, green/yellow), so you'll want to take that blue wire off the always hot block and sleeve it with a piece of brown or black tubing, then put it back where it came from.  Finally, the Live wire on your new fixture goes to the Switched Live block on the far right, which has the brown wire from the switch loop and a yellow onward switched-live going into it.
The earth wire of the fixture, of course, joins with the rest of the earths at the bottom of your picture.  Once that's done, you can button things up, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy your new light!  P.S. you probably should have an electrician look at this wiring at some point, as that blue wire joining in with the earths is rather odd, to say the least.


Prepare shower for tiling

This is not prepared for use in a shower. The seams of cement backer-board should be filled with mortar prior to application of the mesh tape. Also, it is not waterproof yet because it needs at least one more coat of waterproofing.

You had better take a good look at the pan; how it was constructed and prepared. A bad pan will make for a really bad day for you sometime in the (perhaps near) future...


How can I determine why my toilets are not flushing right?

To my knowledge most newer toilets manufactured after the water saving regulations were put in place do not completely empty the tank when they flush. The extra water is there to provide extra height to the water which increases the water pressure as it flows into the bowl.

If your toilet's flushing performance is fine then leave it as is. If not replace the flapper with an adjustable flapper. This can either be a flapper with a dial or a flapper with a float on the chain (you can even get the floats separately to add to your existing flapper chain). These help control how long the flapper stays open after you flush.


Catching/Stopping the Mice from getting into house

Patch up the hole to stop more mice from getting in.
Put traps (or a cat - personally, I'd prefer traps) in the house to catch the ones that are there.
So long as they can find food (and mice are really good at finding food), it's likely that the ones that are already inside will reproduce, thus rendering the "wait until they all die" option somewhat ineffective. Of course, if you happen to have all males or all females inside, that combination cannot reproduce, but it's probably not worth taking the chance.


You want a second return in the ceiling of the top floor for cooling.  Otherwise, all the hot air will collect upstairs and you'll have a very difficult time cooling the space.  Any air return I've ever seen, that goes between floors, involved a wall being built out.  Usually it's hard to tell because it's the back side of a bathtub that looks like it's built out for the bathtub to fit, or a closet that's a bit narrower.  You may get lucky and already have space for it behind one of your walls, but that would require looking over a detailed floor plan to see.


The only downside to your approach is the lack of rigidity in the upper end of the frame because of the multiple joints. Once the framing members are secured to the walls and ceiling, this should be largely resolved.

You could strengthen the frame by adding a horizontal member right below the inverted corners, making a large rectangle with a smaller one above it. This should be well above the door frame of the wardrobe.

Edit by asker-
Image of my interpretation of answer:


Yes, in most US residential construction they are 16" center to center. Most of your standard tape measures have every 16th inch noted in red or some other way. Some internal walls may also be spaced 24" on center.

However, there may be exceptions where a door window or odd length wall is used so be sure to verify with a stud finder or a knock on the wall to check.


Trying to determine if a wall in my basement is load-bearing

In wood construction, load almost always follows a plumb path. Where it doesn't, you find headers, wall plates or beams that are perpendicular to the horizontal, load bearing frame members they support.

If the wall in your photographs were perpendicular to the floor joists, it could be difficult to estimate load bearing potential without reviewing engineering specs of the joists in context of what the joists DO support in addition to loading they are required TO support (according to building code at the time of construction, such as having 40 people in your living room for a party).

Because your wall is parallel to the joists, It becomes much easier to estimate load bearing potential. If there is no 1st floor construction resting directly over the span of joist that sits atop your wall, then there exists no plumb path for load and thus the wall cannot be load bearing. However, that does not mean the wall doesn't provide strategic support. If the wall is under the center portion of open floor, then it could play a role in reducing "bounce".

Finally, if the wall was erected after the structure was complete, then it is not load bearing for the original structure but could be support for a later addition to the structure (such as a stone hearth, bath tub or even a slate pool table). You can identify a retrofit wall by a difference in the construction materials from the rest of the structure (lumber, fasteners, drywall).

I agree with Isherwood's comment, and my contribution here should be accepted only as information for your consideration.


What will happen if I feed a device with two legs from the same phase?

It will simply not work. You need two different phases/legs to get 208/230/240V.

How in the world could you even do this though? 208/240V circuit would require a two-pole breaker so theoretically you cannot wire these circuits with two wires on the same phase.


Possibly, but you'll need to refine your purchasing skills.  All these lights have an engineering balance of solar panel size, battery size, lamp consumption and cheapness. The problem is, as you have identified, you are in an area which has a lot of cloudy days, and as such, much less solarization than average America.

You have "gone straight for cheap, modulated somewhat by reading reviews". Generally the products are designed for reasonable performance in the first day of service in an average day (i.e. equinox) in more sunbelt-ish America.  Most of the cheapies I have seen don't make it through the night, meaning they fall to zero every night, and rely on a sunny day's worth of charging to even make it to midnight.  That just isn't going to happen in Seattle, where solarization is lower than appears to the eye.  (Eyes aren't lux meters, they are designed to auto-adjust and effectively conceal absolute light levels from the user.)

As such, you need a specialty product, and so I'd be looking at the "specialist geek type" small manufacturers, who are designing high-performance lights for your service demand. They will have a solar panel and battery that is outsize large compared to the lamp.  The prices will not be what you're used to.  If that's a problem, then you can look at hardwiring either mains or low-voltage lights by burying cable or conduit.


How do I transition between tile and drywall in a tub surround?

A usual method is to go down the edge of the wall with a surface bullnose, showing a "knife edge" at the corner.  This means the tile rolls down to meet the corner.

Another method, if your bullnose has finished bottoms, is to overlap the edge and go "around the corner", having the bullnose round into the outside wall (the wall that has the striped wallpaper) The bullnose will hide the tile edge, putting that grout line facing the side of the entrance.

This photo shows both methods:
the left with a flat-on-wall knife edge and
the right shows a wrap-around-the corner

You can use the edge profile pictured, in place of surface bullnose.  You would adjust your tile to end short of the corner (equal to the edge thickness of the profile.

In all cases, grout would be filled into the corner/wall junction.


What to look out for when installing a gable attic vent?

It will permit good air circulation. I put in a large one , about 24" from roof peak to the bottom of the vent. My roof had low pitch so the lowest cedar board was over 8 ft long. I used 1X6 cedar boards at about a 30 degree angle with about a 3" overlap ( end view). A little snow would blow in on rare occasion which was handled by laying a piece of plywood on the ceiling joists.


Timer device and Motion Sensor on same box?

The shutoff time for the Defiant timer plugged into the GFCI should not be affected by anything other than what time it senses dusk.


Depending on the size of the hole, there are different methods to fix.

Small holes - As @Oscilatingcretin says just some spackle, sand, and paint you are done.

Medium holes - A fist size hole or bigger is harder.  Cleanup the hole area.  Then take one or more more pieces of strapping and attach to existing wall to serve as foundation for the replacement piece of drywall.  Cut replacement piece of drywall and fit to opening, attach to strapping installed previously.  Then just fill in the gaps and screws with mud, sand, and paint.

Here's a diagram to help to visualize, let's say the hole is the wall is around 6" by 6":

Larger holes - Most likely you will have to find the nearest stud to the left and right and make the existing hole bigger so that the new piece of drywall can be attached directly to the stud.   For the top and bottom, you will have to cut some strapping or framing so the the replacement piece can be secured to the top and bottom as well, otherwise the seem will crack.  Once the framing is in place, cut the replacement piece and secure to studs and new framing.  Tape, mud and sand around the edges of your new piece.  Paint.  If done well and the mud is feathered out, one will not notice the replacement piece of drywall.

Here's a diagram to help to visualize, lets say the hole is 12" by 12":

For holes larger than that, probably best to replace the entire wall.


I will assume it is indeed a failure to ignite problem. The way it works is your circuit board puts out about 5 milliamperes through to your flame rod. When there is flame the electrical signal jumps the flame and the ground completes the circuit back to the board. If it doesn’t read approximately 5 milliamperes back to the board it assumes there is no flame and shuts off. It sounds like there is something that isn’t quite making and finally gives up. Common problems are a dirty sensor, faulty board and bad ground. Unless the flame rod is physically damaged it almost never needs replacing. A resistance test should show 0 ohms. Usually the circuit board is bad but I have had issues with the house ground where more than 2 volts were leaking into the ground. This takes a good repair electrician to track this down. If the ground checks out good then by process of elimination I would assume it is the circuit board. The problem with your scenario is that it takes a long time to happen so it may take a while to find.


What should go between a wood plank sub floor and a hardwood strip floor

It's also known as rosin paper:

Its main purpose is to stop air leaking through cracks in the subfloor and floor which is especially important if the space below the floor is unconditioned.  (You'll also find claims that it prevents the floor from squeaking or muffles sound transmission through the floor.)


Weight of gas dryer drum? Kenmore 87071110

I don't have the exact weight, but I'm pretty sure it's well under 25 pounds.  That being said, it's quite large, so you're going to have to hold it at arm's length, which will make it feel heavier.  You'll also need to be able to reach deep inside the dryer to deal with the drum belt.  So, you may consider getting some help with this job if you aren't as limber as you used to be.  You can always try it and stop if you decide it's too much.


Should I paint bathroom before installation of a new vanity?

Paint first.

You don't have to worry about getting paint on the vanity.
Areas that would be hard with the vanity in place - in my bathroom, small wall sections on each end underneath the vanity since the countertop is wall-to-wall but the vanity is (deliberately) a little shorter - are very easy.
If you ever replace some or all of the vanity, countertop, etc. and the replacement is slightly smaller you won't end up with unfinished areas that then need to get painted.

But overall it is just simpler to paint large sections of walls than dealing with lots of edges.


Will replacing my jet pump with one that has a higher shut-off pressure increase the discharge pressure?

With 15’ of lift you would loose about 7psi of pressure “static” I would be looking at your pressure switch, your system should be able to pressurize to ~62 psi with the long lines to the lake I would expect there to be large drops while water is being used but the tank pressure when full should be much higher, it is possible your “jet” is worn or your pressure switch needs adjusting I would look at these before just replacing the pump.

Added to address the edit. Since you can not get a higher pressure “static” now it is down to just a couple of possibilities, the jet is failing these are a fancy Venturi that creates the ability to push water it could be worn out (it happens) the pump may not be developing the needed pressure because of wear. I would want to verify the output pressure of the pump, if it is good then replace the jet (not that hard and less expensive than a pump. These are just about all that it can be (since you did not say anything about leaks).


Identifying plaster type and how to best remove wallpaper and prepare for painting?

I would say that the best way to get a nice smooth surface to the entire wall (after removing the wallpaper, naturally) would be to plaster skim-coat the entire surface. This type of job requires some skill and a novice would benefit from practice. Another (less optimal) option would be to sand it as smooth as you can and touch up the roughest areas with plaster. Pros use bright lights at an oblique angle to highlight uneven areas, for situations where the flattest/smoothest surface is important. In this situation, either method calls for a complete prime coat prior to paint.
For removing the wallpaper, there are specialty tools and products to make it easier, e.g. scoring tools to perforate the paper, chemicals to help loosen the glue, sprayers to soak the paper, special scrapers, etc.
Since you obviously have internet access, I recommend that you watch some video tutorials for skim coat, plaster repair, and wallpaper removal. This will help you understand the options you have, the steps involved and the equipment and materials needed to do it right.
P.S.- the type of plaster that you have now is not terribly important...