Why is this apartment water heater so much more expensive than my bigger home one?

I think it's fear of downgrading.
I think the pro plumbers are unwilling to downgrade them.
For instance, the latest Codes require water heaters to have better insulation than they did before. This means they are larger.  This is a well-known problem: a new heater often won't fit in the same location.  That means you must either downgrade a size, or go to a taller heater.  That's already a pretty tall heater, and it's hard to go much taller in that space, so they may be forced into something exotic to stay at 50 gallons.
Why not just quote the customer a 50 and a 40/30 and let them decide?  Because in the real world, plumbers are finding that people don't understand the consequences of their choices, and blame the plumber.
So they might have better luck opening the dialogue with asking for the downgrade: "I hate that 50-gallon thing, I'd much rather have a 30 like I used to have, and get rid of that stupid pre-heating system too, it just makes my cold water hot".  That way you are putting the plumber on advance notice that you want the downgrades.
There is no reason for a 2-person condo to need a 50-gallon heater if they are sensible with showers (and showerhead flow).  If they are insensible with showers then they are better off with a gas tankless, which will provide unlimited hot water at perfectly respectable rates.  Gas tanklesses are expensive, but they're sure as heck not $4000.
It may also be a bacteria thing
Science has made a lot of forward progress on how people get sick from hot water (the Flint water crisis had a little to do with this).  It turns out, water heaters set at certain temperatures are breeding grounds for bacteria.  These are the same temperatures you set to avoid scalding, something you really want for seniors, who might have a "senior moment" and blast the hot.   Unfortunately the most vulnerable people to water-heater-borne bacteria are also seniors.
So... the gold standard for retirement communities is now to jack water heater temperature up to a bacteria-killing 140F/60C.  However, since that creates an equally bad scald situation, this can only be done if ALL hot faucets are changed to thermostatic types that will automatically mix in cold water to keep water at scald-safe temperatures.
So the big quote may include re-kitting the house with appropriate faucets, including shower-and-tub work, which can get expensive if the builder didn't leave you an access hatch.
A pleasant upside to having hotter hot water, is that the same temperature at-the-faucet uses less hot water, and that makes the hot water runtime run longer.  So a 40 gallon tank @140F  can easily replace a 50 gallon @115F.
I also suspect a cheapo "pre-heating" system
Some people like to install "circulation pumps" to churn hot water down the pipes, so the hot water in the pipes is already hot, and they get almost instant hot water out of the faucet.
This requires a "return line" back to the water heater for the water that was moved through the pipe.  Most houses do not have this hard-plumbed.
So the el-cheapo method of solving this problem is to simply use the cold water line as a return pipe - taking the tepid and warming water in the pipe and pumping it back into the cold water pipe.
Now, consider the implications when this is combined with a bacteria-safe 140F water heater and thermostatic faucets.  The user calls for hot water -- too hot!  So the thermostatic faucet automatically mixes in some cold water to reduce the 140F hot down to safe temperature. Except the cold water is too-hot also, because of the cheapo circulation pump filling it with hot water.  This creates a guaranteed-scald scenario.
Needless to say, this all creates a big mess for the plumber to have to contend with, versus customer expectations that nothing get worse.
Let me harken back to the idea that tankless heaters don't heat water except during flow, so they don't store hot water, so they don't breed bacteria.  You can set a tankless to 110F and just run it like that. That takes the scald situation completely off the table.


How do I best take up carpet & remove glue from concrete floor

This has been answered previously several times. Here is the link: carpet glued down removal.


Sweat or threaded connections for shut-off valves

I've had better luck sweating/soldering Cu connections than the threaded-with-tape approach.  Another option is to use SharkBite (tm) or equivalent push-on connectors.
FYI, I just added a hose bib out the front of the crawlspace.  8 fittings total with 6 soldered, 1 Sharkbite, and one threaded.  The only one I had a leak issue with is the threaded joint.
Edit 1 - Nap should be Mapp
If you're going to go the solder route, I highly recommend a Mapp torch rather than a propane one.  The Mapp heats up the copper a lot faster than the propane.


If the water heater is a tank type heater the dip tube for the cold water inlet may have broken off or become dislodged. Shortly after you start to shower the cold inlet water mixes with the hot water at the top of the tank and you get a cold shower. I would ask the other tenants if they are having the same problem. You could also try drawing hot water from another source such as a sink and see if you get the same results.


Can I bend CPVC like I do with PVC (heat gun)

Not that I know of, since you're dealing with heat & pressure & really don't want to screw around with the already somewhat marginal properties of the piping.

Try it at your own peril, but I'd suggest throwing in a 45 or less fitting to accomplish the slight offset. Two 45's (or less) might be needed so you can twist them for the perfect dry-fit & marking before gluing.


Install Fluorescent Tube Light, Correct way to Rotate?

I have replaced tubes on easily 20 different kinds of fixtures with a wide variety of tombstones (that's the lamp socket the tubes go into).   It's a dog's breakfast.

Many of them rotate 90 degrees.  Some have channels or cages that require exact 90 degree rotation.
Some of them only allow about 60 degree rotation.
Some of them pull straight out/down, although 60 degrees of rotation will likely make one end pop out.

The upshot is you really have to "go by feel" - remember you are holding onto a glass thing, force hard enough but not too hard.
For what it's worth, the tube ends will have a "dimple" perpendicular to the pins, so when it's square into the socket, the dimple is lined up with the socket.
Once the first tube is out, stop and take a close look at the tombstone, and see how it is designed to work.
Unfortunately I'm not at my site, so I can't give you a rogue's gallery of different tombstone pin paths. Suffice it to say, there are many.

Most LED tubes are aligned so the light shoots out the way the tombstones come out.  If you want to get rid of the infamous LED eyeball-burning glare, at the expense of less light, install them "upside down".


How can I tighten my shower head holder so that it doesn't slip and let the shower head drop out

From the last picture, it really looks like there used to be two "fingers" that engaged the ratchet mechanism.  One seems to be broken, which would also account for it no longer having the strength to hold the head in place.

If you're like me, you set this to the angle you like and never adjust it after that.  I would put some adhesive in the round channel outside of the ratchet ring and screw the parts back together, set the desired angle, and allow it to dry.

If you wanted it to be adjustable, you could fill that same channel with a small amount of rubbery adhesive (like a silicone sealant or shower caulking - something that doesn't get hard when it dries) and let it dry before putting the two sides together.  You just want a little rubbery adhesive in the groove to provide friction when the two pieces are screwed together.

Once it is dry, you can set it to the correct angle and tighten the screw to keep it in place.  If you needed to adjust it later, you might have to loosen the screw, but at least it's adjustable.


How do I use an extension ladder to get onto my roof?

Personally, I hate ladders with a passion. :) Heights are best left to birds, squirrels, etc. Having said that...

A ladder stabilizer can often help. This is a bracket that attaches to your ladder. It makes the ladder much more stable when leaned against the house. A nice thing about the ladder stabilizer is it lets you lean the ladder on the wall of your house, NOT against the edge of your gutter, possibly causing damage to the gutters.

Ladder-Max Stand-off Stabilizer

Next, make sure the ground is flat and solid under your ladder's feet. If the ground is not so, I made a wooden wedge to place under one of the feet of my ladder to make sure the ladder will be happily placed. The bottom of that wedge has spikes sticking out of it, so it will not slip on the grass. You can also buy extension ladders with one leg than can be adjusted in length to account for uneven ground.

To climb onto the roof, you want to run the top of the ladder past the roof, so it extends far enough that you can hold on when you step on and off. I'd suggest it should be at least 3 feet past the edge of your gutter, and 4 feet is better. I also have a helper hold onto the bottom of the ladder to stabilize it. A helper is a good idea in general anyway. One thing you don't wish is for the ladder to fall down when you are standing on the roof, leaving you with no way down, and nobody around to put the ladder back in position (or, as my wife might add, to call 911 when necessary.) A picture is worth a thousand words though:

Getting back onto the ladder off the roof is merely a matter of reversing your steps, as you hold onto the top end of the ladder with your hands.

Obey this setback rule: keep the base of the ladder at least 1 foot out from the house for every 3 feet in height. (Yes, many say to use a 1/4 ratio, but I often tend to go for 1/3.) So if the top of the ladder touches the house at 15 feet up, the base wants to be between 4 and 5 feet out. The trick is to not have it at too steep of a pitch, as then it would too easily tip away from the house - a bad thing especially if you are on it. The idea is that when you are standing on the ladder, you always want the center of gravity (of you plus the ladder) to be between the foot of the ladder and the house.

If I have an extension ladder standing on my deck, I'll often screw down a 2x4 cleat outside of the feet. This prevents the feet from moving/slipping out when I am on the ladder. On a grass or dirt footing, the feet of an extension ladder can swivel into what are effectively spikes that can be set firmly into the ground. These prevent the base of the ladder from moving out from under you.

Other rules - don't climb a ladder if you can avoid it when it is windy, or if you are even remotely tired or not completely focused on the matter at hand. If you are very uncomfortable with climbing ladders, money solves all problems here, as you can always hire even small jobs out.

Here are a few links you might find useful:

How to Climb a Ladder Safely

The Right Way to Set Up and Climb a Ladder


Furnace not turning on, and can anyone identify these sensors?

I don't have enough rep to comment so I have to post as an answer.

With that said, I ran into this issue myself a few years ago, I cleaned off all of my sensors just like you did. This did not fix my issue so I went over my flame sensor with some fine grit sandpaper. (pic of flame sensor)

It has worked since I did this.

Question, when your tstat sends the heat signal, does your heater go through the motions like it will start up but shuts itself down after a few seconds? If so that's very indicative of a sensor issue. For future troubleshooting, basically all residential heaters (that I've seen) will have an LED indicator that will flash in a pattern representing the trouble code. Look up your make/model online and you can find what the trouble code means. Hope this helps. For full disclosure I'm a licensed electrician and not HVAC. Hope this helps.


How to remove this bathtub diverter spigot?

you have to slide the white plastic tab towards the mouth of the spigot.  its essentially like a quick fit pneumatic fitting.  its a spring loaded compression fitting.  sliding the plastic tab forward against the spring pressure releases the seal and lets you slide the spigot off of the wallpipe.  you can twist a little to make it easier and lubricate with dishsoap to get it to move.


Sounds like your sewer line is clogged.  Call a plumber for this one, they have the long snake and the power to eat through things like tree roots.


Cut out the plate at the wall. let the drywall run up to the window and add a minor piece of wood, something like lattice to cover the difference at the edge of the window to the new ceiling extension. It may take 2 pieces to form a new corner at the window, but I think the corner would be better at the window rather than at the wall face.


Will an existing 10-3 w/ground electrical wire handle a 50 amp 220 volt welder?

Wiring from garage panel to welder
NEC 630.11(A) may be of interest.

National Electric Code 2008
ARTICLE 630 Electric Welders
II. Arc Welders
630.11 Ampacity of Supply Conductors.
(A) Individual Welders. The ampacity of the supply conductors shall be not less than the I1eff value on the rating plate.
Alternatively, if the I1eff is not given, the ampacity of the supply
conductors shall not be less than the current value determined by
multiplying the rated primary current in amperes given on the welder
rating plate by the factor shown in Table 630.11(A) based on the duty
cycle of the welder.

Also take a look at 630.12 Overcurrent Protection.
The Owners manual (PDF) seems to contain the answer.

Wiring from service panel to sub panel
If we look at 110.14(C) in 2008 NEC, it says:

National Electrical Code 2008
ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations
I. General
110.14 Electrical Connections.
(C) Temperature Limitations. The temperature rating associated with the ampacity of a conductor shall be selected and coordinated so
as not to exceed the lowest temperature rating of any connected
termination, conductor, or device. Conductors with temperature ratings
higher than specified for terminations shall be permitted to be used
for ampacity adjustment, correction, or both.

Which means we'll have to check the breakers temperature rating, and the subpanel terminals temperature rating. Then we'll have to look at table 310.16 (Table 310.15(B)(16) NEC 2011), so we can determine the wire size we should use.

In this example image you can see if we're using copper, we'll use 60°C. Once we look at the table, we'll see that for 50A @ 60°C we need 6 AWG copper wire. (50A @ 75°C = 8 AWG).
110.14(C)(1)(a) basically says that if the temperature is not listed, use 60°C for circuits less than 100A.  110.14(C)(1)(b) says if the temperature is not listed, use 75°C for circuits over 100A. However, in the real world 75°C is often used for both.


I've not found an image to match the handles in the photo. Without a model designation, it's challenging to zero in on the same product, but the images I've found indicate there are similarities in your product and the parts available.

My search terms were "sunbeam water cooler handles" and could be modified by adding your model number for best results. I was surprised to see that WalMart carries replacement parts, but that's likely to be online and not necessarily available in stores. Amazon also popped up in the search results.

It appears that you may be able to dismantle the nozzle just above the opening if parts are available for that segment, or you should be able to remove the entire assembly for replacement as well.


There are many options for the transition from hard flooring to carpet, and the method of securing the carpet depends on the option you choose.
You could have the cut carpet edge end in a metal strip of the color you prefer. In this case, there are strips that act as a tack strip, wherein the carpet is gripped by the strip itself and tucked under a decorative cover. For these, the metal strip would butt directly against the edge of the hard flooring:

You could use a traditional tack strip and cover the edge of the wood and the cut carpet edge with a rabbeted wood strip, stained and varnished to meet your aesthetic:


What temperatures are normal in this area of my furnace?

If you're tripping the high limit, then I'd say it's not back to normal. Sounds like you're not pushing enough cool air through the heat exchanger, which means it can't dissipate the heat fast enough.

With a conventional gas furnace, you should be at about 140°F-170°F at the supply plenum. A high efficiency furnace will be lower, around 110°F-140°F. However, the temperature at the outlet of the furnace, is dependent on the temperature of the incoming air. If you have the documentation for the furnace, it should give you an idea of the temperature rise you should expect.

The expected temperature rise, as well as the max outlet temperature, might also be listed on the nameplate of the furnace.


Phillips (and others) makes switches for the Hue screw-in light bulbs, which I believe also work with light strips. See the Phillips website.
I've found it is undesirable to use a physical switch that disconnects power to the Hue light, as the light will revert to default settings when power is restored.


What should I do if I get my adapter prong stuck in the outlet?

My recommendation is to talk to the apartment complex supervisor and get them to send out the complex maintenance person or applicable contractor to correct this problem.

It the broken off prong is sticking out of the outlet and it is on the mains hot wire side it can be a dangerous thing if someone were to touch it. Make sure to warn others about the potential danger until this is serviced / replaced. If there are small children in the unit make sure that they have no access to that area as well.

Outlets are a relatively low cost item and in all likelihood the service person will replace the outlet with a new one.


That's a Code violation.
You have subdivided your house into different dwelling units.  Any dwelling unit's breakers must be readily accessible to the occupants of that same dwelling unit. NEC 240.24(B).  That means the breakers must be in the dwelling unit, or in commons spaces.
You can call them "suites" if you want to, but that's just mincing words.  You've made it perfectly clear that the occupants of "suite" A either cannot access their own breakers, or would have to uncomfortably intrude on the occupants of "suite" B to do so.  That's not allowed.
It is allowed for the breakers to be in a commons space (NEC is about safety not security from petty vandals).  So maybe you can get lucky and flip the panel to the other side of the wall it's on, or redefine the breaker room to be commons space.


Am I ready to install window framing in load bearing wall?

Yes, but I'd add a few things...
Firstly, I've done what you're doing many times. It will work just fine. A framed structure is a system, and there's a lot more supporting those joists than you might think. Mentally step through everything that they're connected to and you'll realize that you can almost take the studs out without doing anything else, even without your inner wall.
Now, FreeMan makes a good point about the studs on the inner wall not aligning with the joists, but not quite like he thinks. Joists needn't align with studs below if there's a doubled top plate. That's where your inner wall is lacking.
Fortunately, a solution is simple. Slap three temporary studs against the inner wall, flat, directly under the joists that will be unsupported by the outer wall. They'll run from the concrete to the underside of the joist. Nail them to the inner wall at the top, middle, and bottom and carry on. Everything else is well supported by the foundation wall. The temporary studs rest on the slab, which in turn rests on the footing below (or very close to it). All good.


Do I have to remove the old window jambs when installing new nail flange window?

The answer is yes; if you use that nail-on window the way it was designed to be used it nails to the underlying wall studs. If you use a "nail-on" window like you describe, face-nailing it to the old window jambs, it will look like crap and will probably leak.

If you do not intend to purchase a window designed for your application (a block frame or "replacement style" window), an option might be for you to cut off the nail flanges so you end up with a window that has what is essentially a box/block frame. Then drill holes through the frame and screw it to the existing jambs, caulking all the way around and finishing it off with aesthetically pleasing trim of some sort. I have done this with success.

The picture above shows frame types, from left to right:

nail-on frame for new construction, usually purchased in standard sizes.
block frame for various replacement applications, and very suitable for replacing old windows when the jambs and sill are left in place. Usually ordered to specific size needed.
"replacement style" window, also used for various replacement applications and includes exterior trim flange to hide old jambs. Usually ordered to specific size needed.


How deep are gas lines and electrical lines under ground (to code)?

Typically they will be at minimum, 18" below grade. However this is the grade at the time they are placed.  Soil will compact and erode with time which would result in them being shallower than expected. Frost heaving might also raise them.

The depth requirements only applies to line-voltage lines.  Typically low-voltage lines would not be buried at this depth. Likewise, telco lines are often found significantly shallower, maybe only an inch or two below.

If you know lines are present, the best thing you can do is carefully hand-dig around them.

A lot of telco's will not even properly locate their lines and instead will just fix them quickly when you end up slicing them.  Annoying indeed.


I am doing this now. Using a 10"x36" carbon filter attached to a window vent (so it's kind of automatic). This is good for 1400 CFM. If you go up to 12" or 14" I'm sure it can handle 2200 CFM. About $200 on Amazon


The (Zinsco?) bus bars have arc marks. Can you file these down to bare metal?

No, cleaning the bus is not acceptable. Never seen a replacement bus for Zinsco panels. The existing breakers reportedly have 1300 series aluminum alloy that is not suited for non-bolted connections like the connections in the old breakers.  A replacement bus to be safe would need to also have replacement breakers, that start at $30 for a single pole 20A breaker, and a 2p30 is $65. The math starts to get rough, and then would be worried you might not end up with a quality install anyway.

The ground in a subpanel should be connected to the ground in the panel feeding it, the neutral in the sub should be isolated from the ground in the subpanel.


Can I mount an 80" TV where only one stud is available?

Above your fireplace the stud likely doesn't continue to the floor. Most likely it's atop a header above the fireplace. Now, I'd guess the "header" is just another 2x4, flat, spanning the space of the fireplace... not a "real" header.

This means that you don't have much downward support for the weight.

In my opinion, if the TV is not going to be on a moving, tilting or swiveling mount it will probably be ok with the following process:

Precisely locate the stud using small finishing nails tapped in to locate the edges. This is to get you into the true center of the stud. Take a sheet of hard-wood ply (I like birch) the full concealable height and width of the TV. This will accept multiple pre-drilled lag bolts directly into the middle of the stud. I'm nervous so I'd use three of them.

Then I would glue the plywood into place against the drywall and bolt it into the stud. Let it cure, then attach the TV mount to the ply.

Primarily, though, I would wonder why there's only a single stud above the fireplace!


Help with under the sink filter installation

I would not go with the PVC tubing and push to connect fittings.
You can replace the fitting in the filter housing with one that will except a standard faucet supply line with 1/2" fitting in its end. The filter is under the sink so a faucet supply line should be long enough (they come in several lengths)  the other end of the supply line is a 3/8" and will fit right on your current shut off valve.
Find the supply line in the store and tell the associate that you need to replace the fitting in your filter housing to one that will accept the 1/2 inch. IPS end of the supply line.
Only two parts needed, the new filter fitting and the faucet supply line (and some teflon tape for installing the new filter fitting into the filter housing. You do not need the teflon tape on the fitting threads that except the supply line as they are compression and have rubber gaskets pre-installed.)


Install in a series - Electric heating thermostats, wireless communicating, 3000W for an Manufactured home/RV

They mean the switch must always be wired in series with the load. Otherwise, If the switch were in parallel, turning it on would produce a short circuit. The short circuit would be a very bad thing which will (hopefully) trip the circuit breaker and damage the contacts of the thermostat from the large fault current.

The only thing to remember is systems with 240V heat must have double pole thermostats. The reason is here in North America (USA, Mexico, Canada), both hot leads for 240V are live with respect to ground. The thermostat must disconnect both lines when off so the heater is not live when off.


Rafter above location for light, exterior light box choice

I'd use a saddle box instead

Instead of trying to cobble together something out of two different boxes, raising issues of access to the upper box, I would use a saddle box that fits around the rafter instead, as shown below (photo for exposition only).  This provides adequate space for splicing while allowing easy access to all the wiring here just by dropping the fixture.


Refinishing options for metal sink drainplug?

I had been trying, in vain, to find a replacement plug for days.
Hence I was looking towards refinishing options.
Due to Corona lockdown all shops here are closed. Plumbing suppliers with a web-shop still do mail-order, but I wasn't having any luck finding a match for the plug.
I resorted to emailing/chatting to customer support on various webshops without much success. And I started calling every plumbing supplies and installation outfit in a 50 mile radius.
Miracles do happen apparently...
Called supplier nr. 15 on the list.
The lady there started to laugh about halfway into my story. Turned out she had exactly the same vanity at home and the same scratching problem 2 years ago.
She also had the solution.
When the original factory closed 10 years ago the inventory and designs were bought by the company Grohe, who integrated them in their own sub-brand called "Ben".
They still make them. Slightly different plastic base nowadays, but it fits.
The reason I couldn't find anything online... Grohe calls these "waste plug" instead of "drain plug", so you never find them in an online search unless you happen to know you need to look for "waste plug".
Additional confusion is caused by the fact that Grohe calls this a 5/4" plug, but that doesn't match any of the actual dimensions of the plug. 5/4" happens to be the size of the pipe-fitting on the siphon that goes under the sink.
So I got my replacement ordered and I can forget about refinishing the original plug.


Replacing part of ciruit with 3-wire cable to add a second switch

Go right ahead

Since all the current-carrying wires will be in the same cable, you'll be fine as long as the new cable is the same AWG as the old cable.  Your analysis of the current flows is correct, by the way.


How can I control lights on a 3-way circuit with a timer?

How about a light switch with a motion sensor? They make ones that are occupancy detectors (detecting motion and then turning on), and vacancy sensors (detecting absence of motion and then turning off). They'll also have a button which can manually toggle the light on or off, and you can set the sensitivity and how long an absence is required before the light turns off. California Title 24 now requires vacancy sensors in many indoor areas; try looking for switches which comply with that.


Electrically they should be safe and function well. Both are EU member states - so standards are theoretically harmonised.

The problems may be that UK light switches are designed for use in UK back-boxes and patresses. The dimensions of the box and the location and dimensions/threads of the fixing screws (which are always included with UK switches) may be different to those used in Slovakia.

Labelling of connections in UK switches may be unfamiliar to Slovakian electricians (e.g. "Com", "L1" and "L2") but that should be a minor issue.


GCFI Outlet Trips with no load or downstream connections

It's dead, Jim

You have kept the tape on the LOAD terminals and nothing is plugged into it. That's a good a test as you can do.

Really the only thing left to do is test whether the power is good.  I would swap in a plain receptacle and plug in an appliance and see if the appliance works.  That will be a more definitive test than you can get from that probe.


How to smooth the separation between 2 hardboards on the floor?

The spacing you leave between the sheets of hardboard (or whatever other underlayment that you put down) will be determined from the manufacturer's instructions. Some materials need to have room for minor expansion over temperature and humidity ranges. If the proper gap is not left then the sheets of the material may buckle and create an uneven floor with bumps during some seasons. As such, if gaps are recommended then it would be advised to not try to fill them in with other materials.

The material expansion characteristics of the underlayment need to be taken into careful account when considering what material types that you would lay and glue down over the underlayment. Make sure that the material (hardboard) that you are using is compatible with your vinyl material.

If large expansion gaps between your sheets of underlayment are say more than 1/8 inch (~3mm) then that may not be suitable for use under vinyl. Top load on the vinyl could cause the material to crack in places where it is pressed into the cracks.

If you have a compatible underlayment material but have large gaps due to poor installation then you will have to either remove and replace the underlayment and bring gaps in line with 1/16" to 1/8". It may also be possible to trowel in a crack filler material between the sheets but that all depends upon the manufacturer's instructions regarding the expansion requirements for the underlayment material as stated previously.


How can I remove the cap from my chlorine feeder?

I found one answer to my own question today. Although I still don't know why the cap was so tight I managed to remove it. At first I used a 2x4 across the cap top and a rubber strap wrench to hold the feeder from turning. But I broke all 4 cap fins plus the pvc fittings which were connected to the feeder.  Then I removed the feeder and placed it in a vise on my work bench. That made me nervous as I was trying not to crack the feeder body. But the cap came off with a strap wrench, finally.  I am still curious to know why the cap was so tight. It felt like a vacuum even after I loosed a bleeder on top of my cartridge filter, I loosened the basket lid on my pool pump, and I removed the broken pvc fittings and any plug I could find on the feeder. The cap was always tight for 12 years but never like this time. Go figure.


Removed old vanity and installed new vanity and there is limited space to install new P-trap

It is normal to cut the drainage end of the trap tube to fit.
They come long and are intended to be trimmed to fit - that's the "male" part of the slip joint normally found on the output of the trap - similar joints and trimming are typically found between the sink tailpiece and the trap entrance, though specific cases vary.
There's also typically a range of motion from twisting the trap horizontally.


You inadvertently bypassed the switch loop that controls that light fixture.  There will most likely be a cable with a white wire that is not connected to any other white wire -- that cable is the switch loop in all but the newest installations.


How would I start to repair this Shurflo 2901-0213 water pump?

There isn't much to go on but I'll give it a shot. You say you switch the pump on and don't get water pressure. Given that you're trying to diagnose using a multimeter, I will assume the motor does not run. Between the leads to the unit and the motor there is a pressure switch (#1 on the parts diagram). It could have failed.

More likely though is that the motor has failed. The motor will probably cost more than a replacement unit. (I was a yacht mechanic for 10 years and have tossed out more dead water pressure pumps than I can recall. No one makes a really good unit.)

If the motor runs when you switch it on then there isn't much you can diagnose with a multimeter. Open up the unit and look at the valve assembly. There is probably dirt holding open one or more of the valves or one or more are dried out and don't seat well enough to function properly. A rebuild kit (new valves) will fix it if the problem is from bad valves. Otherwise save yourself a lot of grief and replace it.


Will thicker o-ring stop this faucet leak?

I just needed to tighten it more. I bought a better wrench,  tightened it more, and now it doesn't leak.


What would be the best way to repair this hole?

The best fix applies to both of these vents, they should be replaced.

How did they mount this wire mesh to the stucco?

It's likely stapled to the back of the stucco face, and there may be thin wood applied behind the mesh to help reinforce it and make it look embedded and not just tacked-on.

My best guess is that they stapled it before the applied the 3 coats of stucco and it is semi embedded.

Exactly.

Is it recommended to paint over the mesh? Why was this done?

Either the stucco or paint was probably applied by sprayer. It's extremely time-consuming to evenly paint a house exterior, and sprayers are much faster.
For your fix, replace the mesh the same way it was originally installed (you can check from inside the crawlspace, you'll have to get in there anyway to staple your new mesh) and then paint over it if you want it to match, or just the stucco frame around the new mesh.


How to air-seal apartment breaker box and range hood duct

Every residence, excluding the ISS, submarines and similar special cases, needs a certain amount of makeup air. Newer buildings tend to let in far less air as a way to improve energy efficiency, but there is always some air coming in or else you would end up with too much CO2 and not enough O. See Apollo 13 or a report of a mine disaster for details.
That being said, if the problem is excess draft caused by the bathroom fan, stop the bathroom fan! Since this is a rental, you can't replace the motion sensor without permission. But a piece of duct tape over the sensor will fix that problem really quickly. Alternatively, you could tape some sort of flap over the sensor so that you could turn it on/off as needed in order to ventilate moisture from the bathroom after a shower or bath. Much like many people place a removable cover over their laptop camera and remove it when they actually want to Zoom.


Fan blew up capacitor, replaced capacitor, now it won't turn

When fans get old, the lubrication on their bearings is usually gone. Most consumer grade fans have oilite bushings. These wick oil from a cotton or wool to the bushing; as they age, they use up the oil, pull more current, and may pop the cap. I have recovered many fans by using a light oil and saturating the media with oil. When starting the fan, if you give it a flick and it runs but then slows and stops, this may be your issue.


Why did one toilet regularly clog, and now another one?

It's highly unlikely that the blockage transferred from one toilet to the other.

If your septic waste line is on a septic tank and leach field you may need to have it emptied.

If you are continually clearing blockage in your main septic line then you might want to consider having a plumbing service clear the main line. The reason I mention this is that it sounds like tree roots have infiltrated your main sewer line. To deal with these tree roots, specific tools are required. The problem could also be a restricted or broken line.

On the other hand, next time you are clearing the line (with a snake from the cleanout?), see what comes back attached to the spiraled head. If you are clearing it regularly, chances are you will see whatever it is attached to the snake.


How do sub-surface drains (e.g. French drains) work?

A French drain doesn't move the water anywhere it just creates a void that can be filled with water for the short term. You could do the same thing by burying a barrel with holes in it and landscape fabric around it. Eventually it would get full of water and if the rain (or garden watering) doesn't stop it will still flood the area.

Nothing prevents the water from falling back out of the pipe except hydraulic pressure. But that is the idea. As the ground dries back out the water leeches back into the soil. There is not usually an ultimate destination but you could create one by connecting solid pipe to the perforated pipe running downhill to another area.

You can certainly do this on your side of the property to help reduce flooding.


Three sets of wires for two switches in bathroom

I'm guessing the black from the light is always hot. So take that hot black and connect it to the black wire for the light in the other room. To that same connection, connect a 6" pigtail and the other end of the pigtail to the common terminal of your double toggle. The common terminal is probably the black screw but verify that with the switch diagram. Take the red from the light and hook it to the top switch terminal, usually a brass screw and hook the black from the fan to the bottom switch terminal, also usually a brass screw. Connect all your white wires together. Good luck and stay safe out there.


Yes it's possible and very easy with simple thermostats. For example twp non powered thermostats could be controlled in such a way with a 3 way switch. R from the furnace goes to the common terminal and the switched terminals go to the corresponding are terminal on each thermostat.


How can I add a light switch to an existing lighting circuit?

Anything can be done, but in simple terms, NO you cannot switch one light that is already switched without using a hot and a separate switch circuit.  I will not explain in detail, cause I feel you really don't have the concept of how this can happen. Sorry if I sound rude.  If you do not have a basic understanding of electrical circuits, than I really recommend you get an electrician to help you. Electrical is not a DIY unless you really know what you are doing. It certainly can be done with some wire fishing, possible wall opening, and some refinishing work after. Be safe and get someone to look at your situation. We cannot tutor you enough here to assure a safe modification you want to do.


Cheap wood-ish replacement for glass panel in door

As @jphi618 indicates in his comment, glass or sheet acrylic would be thin, fairly strong and fairly cheap, then painted to match the door. There is also sheet steel, which would be much heavier and expensive, but similar in thickness.

There are other materials, such as sheet MDF and plywood that are available in 1/4 inch thickness and hardboard that is available in 1/8 inch thickness. These are all thicker than standard window pane glass, but the glass in your door may well be double thickness, which is around 1/8 inch.

Plywood and MDF are fairly easily cut with power tools, as is hardboard, but the latter is tougher. All of them can be painted.

If you use something other than glass of the same thickness, you probably want to adjust the moldings to accommodate the additional thickness. You also may want to replace the other panel so they look similar. This also eliminates the chance of the other panel breaking.

The danger of painted glass, especially if it is not thicker than window pane, is the risk that people push on it believing it is wood or some other non-fragile material. People tend not to push on unpainted glass unless it is obviously very thick.


How to tighten an optical fiber to the wall?

I would use a surface mount wire mold like this or a stick on one. It would protect the fiber and look better than sticking a wire on the wall. Make sure not to bend the fiber two tightly or it will break.


Correct gauge and jacket type for feeder wire to subpanel?

The 83% derate only applies if it is all the service to a single dwelling unit.  With 75A of A/C and two dryers, that sounds like something else.  So let's ignore the 83% derate.

Suppose we use 4/0 wire

First, a couple common errors in sizing voltage drop are calculating ampacity on breaker trip - you should actually calculate it on practical daily load -- and presuming 3.000% is a hard number. (the voltage drop calcs online will hurt you there; they treat 3.01% as cause for a wire size bump!) 3.0% is a nonsense number not mentioned anywhere in Code. What the Code really wants is less than 8% from meter to final outlet.

4/0 (aluminum, of course) wire, indeed, has a rating of 180 amps.  You will need to breaker this run for 180--- Oh, snap! Nobody makes a 180A breaker for that panel! You'll have go upward to the next breaker size available. It's 200A.


What should I do with exposed wires from a yard irrigation manifold?

It looks like the Green or Green/White wire is also hooked up. He used 4 twisted pairs, most commonly used as Ethernet wire (the one that you use for internet on your computer, router, modem, etc.) and is most likely a Category 5 cable. It is a relative cheap cable that has 8 wires, looks like he only needed a few but it is easier and cheaper to use what you have sometimes.

As long as your system works and the wires that are connected aren't getting hot (meaning the wires are too small for the electric load going through them) then you're fine. The connectors to the attached wires look like waterproof ones and sounds like you can trust the contractor on that one.

I'd wait a while to make sure everything works, or ask them to do it if they're coming back already, and cut the unused wires close to/at the sheathing (blue covering in your example) and put some tape around that to ensure you don't trap some water in there.

The unused/exposed wires left alone can/will have some copper corrosion form but they are unused so it's more of an aesthetic concern which you can address.


Is my water heater connected to GFCI and is it affected after short circuit?

Find the Fault

Firstly, the problem is almost certainly not your GFCI or Circuit breaker.

What has happened is that a fault has developed in your water heater or in your power outlets or someone has hammered a nail into a wall and punctured and shorted a wire. The circuit-breaker has then done the right thing and isolated the circuit to prevent your house burning down in the night whilst you are asleep.

You need to find that fault.

Lights

Your lights are on a separate circuit, that's why they are not affected.

Fuses

Your main distribution board looks like it is fitted with fuse-carriers (not with more modern MCBs or RCBOs). You need to open up the relevant one and check the fuse inside for continuity.

It isn't clear to me how your subsidiary distribution board is connected to the main distribution board. In my part of the world, a subsidiary board is fed from one of the fuses (or MCBs or RCBOs) in  the main board - which are labelled to make this clear.

In your case it isn't clear but I'd turn off power to the building and then check fuse 6 since the symbol on that looks a bit like a water heater.

You should only replace this after you found and fixed the fault in your heater room.

It might be that the overload in the room with the heater blew the fuse in the main distribution board as well as tripping the MCB in the subsidiary board (the one with the 0/1 switch). That fuse probably supplies power to the subsidiary board which divides it between the heater and sockets and a couple of other circuits.

If so, the 20A fuse in the main board isn't rated for a full 64A load that your subsidiary board is fused for (20 + 32 + 16 + 16). That doesn't seem right to me.

Glossary

MCB - Mini Circuit  Breaker - has an on-off switch that detects overcurrent faults
RCBO - Residual Current Breaker with Overload protection - has a reset pushbutton
GFCI - What Americans call a RCBO (roughly equivalent anyway)
Fuse - Contains a wire that sacrificially melts to protect you when a fault occurs.


Wifi Thermostat to Reznor Garage Heater. No "C" wire connection on terminal strip

After more carefully reading your question:

Neither G nor W1 are suitable to use as a common (C).  The C connection is there in the unit as you said, but not present on the rear terminal strip.

Based on the manufacturer schematic, it does appear that "W2" on the rear terminal strip of the single stage unit is truly not connected to anything, so you should be able to extend your "C" terminal from the interior circuit board to W2 on the rear terminal strip without any adverse consequences as you mention.   It would probably be a good idea to relabel "W2" on the rear to "C" as well.


If you really want to go through this effort (rather than just capping off the lines), then you should just install the lines into the walls (if they aren't already).

Normally you'd just cap the lines off until you're ready to hook everything up (as seen in my picture above), but there's nothing stopping you from putting valves on instead of caps, which is a great idea anyway (it makes it easier to hook up, service later, etc).

With the pipes in the walls, you can freely work on the floor and install cabinets without worrying about them (and as you can see in this photo, it was before I had flooring or cabinets in).

Here's the same connections (with valves) after installing cabinets and the new sink:

Nothing stops you from using valves instead of caps, though it does require cutting a bigger hole in the cabinet to install. Depending on your cabinet style you may or may not like this -- in my case these are pretty cheap cabinets installed in a laundry room in the basement, I wasn't too worried.

Just be sure you don't accidentally knock the vales open while you're working, or you'll ruin the floor that you're not even finished installing yet!


Where do I connect a C-wire to my electric boiler ( Slant/Fin Monitron Boiler )

The transformer label says "PRIMARY: BLK & WHT". So its black and white wires are the 120 V ("primary") connections. Its other wires are the "secondary", ie the 24 V connections. The theory is simple enough: one of the transformer secondary wires should lead directly to the R terminal; the other one is C. I'm not certain but it looks like the secondary wires might both be blue.
Figuring out which is which, and sorting out whether your thermostat wires are reversed, is a little more complicated. Start by disconnecting the thermostat from its wiring. We'll re-connect it later.
Next let's identify which of the thermostat terminals is the R terminal. Start at either of the terminals and trace the wiring, working toward the transformer. It might help to also start at the transformer and trace one of the wires, working toward the thermostat terminals. Eventually you'll find a continuous wiring path between one of the secondary wires and one of the thermostat terminals. That terminal is the R terminal. If your W wire is connected to it then swap the R and W wire connections.
Finally, track the C connection from the transformer secondary out to some place that's convenient to tap. Just follow it along until you get to a terminal where the C wire could be reasonably attached. Ideally it should be on the right-hand side of that barrier which divides the low-voltage thermostat stuff from the mains-voltage stuff. When you do find a good location, connect your spare (blue?) thermostat conductor there.
Now it's time to test. With the thermostat still disconnected turn the system power on. Measure AC voltage between the thermostat R and W wires and between the R and C wires. You should find something like 24-28 volts between each of those pairs, and about 0 volts between W and C. Next, short R to W to call for heat. The system should begin heating in its usual way and continue as long as R and W are shorted.
With those checks passed, go ahead and connect the thermostat.


Should I replace the door hinge or add a new pin?

If you can find the same style of hinges it may just be the easiest to replace the hinges with new ones. For the smaller bi-fold door hinges it is unlikely that you can find replacement parts and new hinges are not all that expensive.

The most likely reason the one hinge pin is loose is because the hinge itself has deformed and not due to wear of the pin itself. Once again suggesting replacement.

You may find that replacement hinges have the screw holes in different locations than the originals. This would not normally be a problem because you can easily drill new pilot holes for the screws at the new locations. However sometimes a new hole will be right next to one of the old holes. If this happens it is recommended to fill the old hole with a glued in plug carved to the right size from a piece of scrap pine board (some folks like to stuff the hole up with glue and toothpicks). Pound the plug in place and let dry overnight and then cut off flush with a sharp chisel.


Leaking sprinkler system area top of valve?

If you turn off the water to your sprinkler system you can them remove those two screws and take off the top of the pressure vacuum breaker.  Inside you should see an O-ring that makes a nice seal.  Check that the O-ring is in good condition and then also look for things like spider webs or wasp nests that are preventing a good seal.

If water is flowing into the sprinkler system the O-ring of the pressure vacuum breaker will prevent the water from leaking out.  If water flows the reverse direction, the pressure vacuum breaker will open and prevent the water from going back into your house (and you drinking it).  So if something is blocking the O-ring from making a good seal, then you could end up with a leak.


Use the terminal block below the control board

The terminal block below the control board on your system, with the brown and yellow wires connected to it, is the distribution point for 24VAC common (X on your system wiring diagram) in your system.  Simply crimp a 1/4" (6.3mm) female quick-connect suitable for 18AWG wire (red color code) onto the end of the wire you want to use and slide it onto one of the tabs on the terminal block. If you need to extend the C wire, you can use a piece of 18AWG TFFN/AWM wirenutted onto the C wire in the thermostat cable, with the quick disconnect crimped on the other end.


Some caulk is based on silicone rubber. Many non-caulk products are also based on silicone.

Lots of caulk is based on other things.

Latex, polyurethane, moss, oakum...


Do I need to install another Bonding bus bar in the disconnect?

In answer to your question. Yes you do need to add another ground bar to bond the neutral and the ground wire at the first means of disconnect and you will need to attach your ground you brought in under ground. Also as @Tyson has pointed out you will need a driven ground rod at the disconnect. What everyone else is saying is that you will need to isolate the neutral from the ground at any panel down stream. As far as what method you use to bond this disconnect you probably want to run that through the AHJ. I like @Paul Logan's advice but you need to use a four barrel lug. Neutral in, neutral out, grounding electrode conductor, and grounding wire out.

As far as I can see the disconnect is service rated. It's just a fused disconnect instead of a main or enclosed breaker.


Cracks in basement cement that seem to leak more when water is running?

More leakage when you run the water points firmly to leaking from sewer line. A leaking water line would, if anything leak less when the water was run (or more likely just not change) since it has water under pressure in it all times.
A sewer line does not have water in it until you run the water, so if the leak leaks more when the water is running, it's from a sewer line. Crude home test method is to toss some food coloring (or unsweetened drink mix, which can be a handy source of strong color) into the toilet and flush, and see if the leak color changes to match (it will generally be more dilute, so use a strong color mix.)


New ecobee3 lite, have heat but no cool option

You skipped the compressor contactor
When you were reading your furnace's wiring diagram, you skipped over the symbol between the thermostat Y terminal and the furnace C connection that represents the coil on your air conditioner's compressor contactor.  That coil is what is energized by the thermostat to turn the air conditioning on, so it's kind of important that it not be left out of the circuit, as you seem to have assumed so far.
Fortunately, you can fix this rather readily since you have a spare wire handy from the looks of things.  Strip the end of the spare (blue) wire at the furnace end, and join it in with the junction of the fat brown and thin red wires (by the wiring diagram, that's your C wire connection); then you can wire yellow to Y and blue to C at the thermostat end.  From there, finish wiring the thermostat as you had it before, button everything back up, and enjoy your new thermostat!


Odd Wiring in garage - split 240 breaker into two 120 circuits

Going to a standard (15 or 20A) outlet, it should be a 20 amp breaker max (also, with 12 awg wire, the max breaker is 20 amp).
Using a double pole breaker with 2 hot 1 neutral and 1 ground is called a multi wire branch circuit. With 12 awg wire on a 20 amp breaker this would be code compliant and is used regularly to save on wire cost. The neutral and ground splits and goes with each hot.


Placing a roof terrace on XPS insulation

Yes, the tiles will hold.
If you look up the specs, they are even used under concrete in factory floors.
Just make sure the surface is flat. If you lay them on uneven surface, they will bend and break.
Also it would help if you showed a picture..


One of the current limiting methods required by the U.S. is similar to a dimmer the current is limited by controlling an SCR and this has the effect of dimming. This may be the cause.


Over voltage protection to prevent appliances from burning

A whole house surge protector installed at the panel will take care of surges. There is no real way for a neutral to become a line from the utility . neutral is bonded to ground at the service panel.


Should I be concerned about water spilling behind tile wall?

This should not be a problem. Just make sure to leave the cavity open long enough to let the wet spots dry out.


Lutron dimmer w/companion in existing Carter 3-way

i never heard of a carter 3-way. so i looked it up.  I am very sorry.
the short answer: no, rewire the whole thing. carter 3ways where banned in 1923. and are very dangerous.
however, to identify the  wires at each box
with a multimeter 2 wires should read 120v the third is the light to be controlled.
and the hot and neutral go on the "Traveler" screws. and the light(load) goes on the common screw. (this is for the horribly unsafe carter 3 way)
what's happening is you are swapping the hot and neutral. so you have to think. can a dimmer work on the neutral side of a load?  no, no it can't. they only work on the hot side of the load (light).
also. don't change light bulbs without turning off the circuit at the panel.


Washer and nuts is the way to go. you can use wing nuts if you want.
If I was doing it, I would measure and drill the top 2 holes in plywood. Hang it in place and then measure and drill bottom 2. you should be able to do it while its hanging. The drill hole doesnt have to be super snug give your self some room for error.


Is vertical siding more durable than horizontal siding, all things being equal?

I didn't know it was called that but I had batt & board siding and the result aligned with your intuition.  One caveat this siding was many decades old when I bought the home so keep in mind that replacing it was long overdue.

The main problem I noticed with the siding is not that there was an issue with the seams so much as that water shed along the grain of the wood.  Over time this resulted in splits in the boards.  This allowed water inside the wall and created some problems in the structure of the home.

I replaced it with pine clapboards partly for aesthetics but also because I believe them to be superior.   With clapboards, there is overlap.  If a board cracks or opens up, there's another underneath (or over it.)  I think it's better if the water runs across the grain, not with it.  From what I think I understand about wood, water will more easily be absorbed if it drips along the grain.

P.S. Looking at your links, it's important here to distinguish between horizontal siding and lapped horizontal as discussed in the 'farhas' article.  I would think vertical is preferable to horizontal if we are talking non-lapped.  Water will stick to the underside of a board and ride in between the seams.  Once it's on a flat surface, there's no natural path out and it could get behind the board or simply sit on top of one below.


How were these copper pipes attached to the T&P discharge valve likely connected?

That fitting is called a union, it was installed to allow for the T&P and/or the entire water heater to be replaced without needing to cut and resolder the relief valve discharge line.

As for the order of operations during initial installation, there really is no way to tell for sure. Assuming the discharge line exits the utility area where the heater is located then a very likely scenario is that the installer may have "roughed in" the discharge line prior to the closing of the walls with sheetrock and then simply piped to it from the T&P valve once he placed the water heater in its final location. In this case it is likely that they would have begun on the right with the male adapter going into the T&P valve, then measured and cut the pieces and added the fittings, working to the left until they made connection with the previously installed discharge piping. It is also possible that they piped it the opposite direction, from left to right, but personally I think its easier to go right to left in this case. The union isn't required either by code or by the fact that it is rigid copper piping, it is simply there to ease the replacement of the tank itself and the relief valve.


Is it normal for air to be leaking from where the drain hose connects to the central A/C unit?

That picture is kind of unclear but it certainly looks to me as if the drain (and maybe the whole a/c) was added as a retrofit to a furnace - the hole is uneven looking to me - sloppy.  I have something similar myself, in fact.

In answer:

1) No, it's not normal - it' a waste.  Air exchangers that are built to do both jobs do not have these kinds of gaps.

2) Yes - cut a piece of plastic to fit over the hole as much as possible.  Seal in place using METAL tape (not duct tape), closing up all the remaining gaps.


Can forced central air be retrofitted with central humdifier?

While not as effective as hot air if using hot rather than cold water tap with an evaporative style humidifier it does still provide humidity.  My system is configured to allow humidifier to turn on blower fan separate from heat if needed when humidity is low with good results.


Can I hook up under-sink water filter to sprayer outlet on faucet?

The diverter valve built into your faucet is downstream from the faucet valve that is designed to hold back "line" pressure. The diverter shunts water toward the spray head when you open the spray head valve, and directs it toward the fixed spout otherwise.

The faucet sprayer head/nozzle is not designed to hold back system pressure. They would have to be more robust to the point of being unwieldy to do that. Also, the main valve is where hot and cold are mixed, giving you temperature adjusted water at the sprayer head. If you hook directly to the spray head it will leak.


You need an engineer's advice. This is not something free web advice should be trusted for; the consequences of getting it wrong could be severe and the answer may involve much more than that one beam to properly transfer the forces to the frame and foundation. I had something similar done and had to have a floor joist sistered with steel c-beam and specific arrangements of cripple studs...


GFCI and other concerns for 1500 foot wiring run

There are two huge areas of challenge for this job.  #1 the legal way to transit the pond, and I am 100% sure that laying the pipe atop the pond bottom is not allowed, because pipe is not allowed to "leap" underwater valleys as it will have no support. It will also snag any foot traffic.  #2 the GFCI capacitance problem as you discuss.

You're also talking quite a staggering sum, even with your shortcutting lowball plan. As such, what keeps hitting my brain really hard is "Revisit Solar".   Because the kind of money you'll spend on the wire alone will buy a lot of solar.

The barn system, sounds like it needs to be enlarged or aging batteries replaced.

As for the gate, the need there is not so bad. On one hand, the gate motor - which pulls hard, but only for a few instants.  Because of that, the average draw over 5 days is probably less than a watt, and that's what you have to size the battery and panel for. It would really help if  you could get a 12V or 24V version of that gate.

I gather the other load out there would be post lights. I would go entirely 12/24V LED for this, and abandon the idea of having the lights burn all night, instead make it only seem that way by strategically placing motion sensors so anyone who approaches finds it on.  12/24V motion sensors exist and are in fact cheaper than 120V sensors.  Run 18/3 thermostat cable to them and have them light the light through a relay.

Figure 2 watts average for the gate and 1 watt average for a motion sensor light+sensors, = 3 watts x 10 days reserve = 720 Watt Hours or 60 amp-hours.  Very achievable. Put 100W of solar panel on that, aimed straight vertical so snow doesn't stick to it, and if that deosn't suffice add another panel.


Buying a home with 2 prong outlets but the bathroom has 3 prong outets

Grounding is no longer red-alert essential
Since there are other ways now to provide better protection.  Particularly, GFCI protection is so good that you're allowed to fit 3-prong outlets as long as they are protected by a GFCI device (somewhere in the circuit).
So all these are acceptable:

A socket that's obviously a GFCI, with "Test" and "Reset" buttons.
A socket that has a "GFCI Protected" sticker that is protected by a GFCI device somewhere else (e.g. GFCI breaker or GFCI socket upstream).
A 3-prong socket stickered with "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground".

Note that GFCI does not provide "Equipment Ground", or the ability of equipments to dump lightning, ESD and surges to the earth ground (which doesn't exist).
Retrofitting ground isn't as hard as it used to be
NEC 2014 broadened the rules for "retrofitting ground" to outlets not currently grounded.  Today, you are allowed to simply run a proper-sized ground wire, via any route, to any of the following:

The panel (obviously)
Any junction box that has a big enough ground going back to the panel
Any junction box with hard metal conduit going back to the panel
The Grounding Electrode System (bare wires from panel to water pipe/ground rods)

And circuits can share grounds -- you can't share neutral because that is normal service current and it can overload, but ground faults are rare events, and you're allowed to presume that you won't have 2 of them on 2 different circuits at the same instant.
Also, grounding may be there anyway. Some old houses were wired with metal conduit or metal-jacketed cable.  This, combined with broad use of metal boxes, sometimes means grounding actually is present after all. You can't tell this except by opening up junction boxes, but it's a pleasant surprise.   The houses done in conduit can even have the wires replaced with little pain - the conduit lasts forever.
So you can often use a "combo tactic" of GFCI protection + actual grounding for the receptacles in the computer room.
Worry more about the panel
Certain types of panel are toxic -- Federal Pacific and Zinsco.  Those panels must go entirely.  Swapping panels is a big job, pencil in $2000.
One panel line, Challenger, has dangerous breakers trivially replaced with modern breakers.
Other panels such as Pushmatic or old GE, are perfectly safe (Pushmatic is "the finest consumer panel ever made" say some), but are obsolete meaning modern safety-enhanced circuit breakers can't be obtained.  (at least not from reliable US vendors; the Chinese will supply dangerous junk of course.)
Still others (ITE, Crouse Hinds, Westinghouse, Challenger etc.) are obsolete in name, but fully supported by modern breaker lines.
The reason this matters is that AFCI and GFCI breaker types enhance safety considerably in old wiring.  AFCI attacks the problem of arc faults, or faulty old wiring that arcs, overheats and starts fires.  GFCI provides shock protection for humans which is significantly better than the protection provided by grounding.
As such, it's possible to secure old wiring and even "dangerous" aluminum wiring well enough to continue it in service.
Although to tell you a secret, the problem with aluminum was never the metal.  It was bad choices about attaching it to terminals not actually made for aluminum wire, and using improper screw torques.  In 2017 they require a torque screwdriver for all connections; that and CO-ALR rated receps and switches, you barely even need the AFCI breaker at that point!


How to meet code when the outdoor light is separated from the electrical box by a wooden spacer

Yes, there is such a thing as a weatherproof extension ring

While you can't just extend the wires out beyond the box to the fixture (what if a splice failed and tried to light things on fire?), the good news for your situation is that weatherproof extension rings do exist! Ask your local supply house for a Hubbell (Bell/Raco) 5363-0; this will give you 1.5" of extra box depth, which should be just enough to deal with your spacer board.


should I stain the bottom of exterior steps?

You should always seal (when you say stain I'm guessing you mean seal) all 4 sides and both ends of a board (if possible) so it takes in moisture/humidity evenly. Otherwise it can lead to cupping, warping, and twisting. This isn't always a problem but it can be.


What kind of connection is used to attach the legs to this table?

It could possibly be done using Mortise and Tenon joints, however, it looks like this table simply uses  Hanger Bolts.

If you look at a picture from the bottom of the table,

you'll notice there are holes bored in the underside of the table top.  This is likely where the nut would be attached to the bolt, which is in turn screwed into the leg.


PEX stands up pretty well to freezing. It's amazing what you can do to it and how it recovers. Freezing isn't a problem for PEX.  Still I would recommend draining it during the winter via a drain spigot at a low point in the plumbing. Depending upon the plumbing configuration, you may have to "blow it out" using compressed air.


Proper lighting for basement bedroom 12x12ft

Adding more “downlighting” won’t help brighten the room. You’re using “task” lighting when you should be using “General” lighting.

We use either: 1) switched outlets, or 2) surface mounted ceiling lights.

1) We hook one-half the electrical outlets to the light switch so that a table lamp or lamp on a nightstand can be plugged into the switch.

2) A surface mounted light with a glass globe will allow light to shine on the ceiling and walls. It brightens the room. Also if it’s placed near a closet, it will cast light into the closet.

For larger bedrooms we use a combo of 1) and 2), above. I like lamps next to the bed on a 3-way switch with general light by a sitting area, etc.

By the way, that is not a “legal” bedroom. The Code is very clear: you must have an egress window (emergency escape window) from every sleeping room. It cannot be more than 44” from the floor and must be a minimum of 5.7 square feet with minimum width and minimum height. Don’t put someone in harms way.


Noiseproofing Bedroom with Green Glue: Should I do exterior walls and/or ceiling?

It depends of how much noise you would like to reduce. if you looking from complete silence, applying sound-proofing sealant to two walls will do nothing but empty your wallet. If you want to reduce it to a level where you can read, write, or just not be bothered by it; then sound proofing two walls and the ceiling will help. The theory of sound proofing is to eliminate or reduce sound vibrations traveling through the walls. This is achieved by creating a air space between the layers of sheetrock where vibrations go to die. When you screw it to the wall, the metal of the screws will act as vibration transmitters and diminishing the effectiveness of the soundproofing glue. You will be better off by glueing it to the old wall.

If you have access to the room where the noise is generated, you can reduce the noise by sound-treating that room with sound absorbing furnishing and diffusing sound traveling by  rearranging furniture, etc. A quick search for sound proofing art will bring an array of artsy and decorative items that serve that purpose.


how to repair bi-fold door with fallen slats?

Apply glue and clamping pressure from the center and work slowly upwards. As you gradually tighten the clamps, fit the slots back in place working upwards as the space between the stiles closes. It should slide back together. You might add a mechanical fastener to the top to strengthen it.

I've fixed similar doors this way. Be patient and don't rush it.


How do I deal with Particle Board Subfloors and Hardwood Flooring?

If possible, try framing out the edges. I would remove all of the existing sub floor (since it is particle board) and then add addition framing along the edges as needed for the new plywood.  In cases where you can't meet a joist, go perpindicular and create a nice foundation for the floor to attach too.

I would make sure the floor has a firm foundation.  It might be extra work to do it, but I would take those extra steps if possible.


Could an unlevel furnace be causing noise from the blower fan?

Of course it could be, but probably isn't. A spinning fan will hit anything in its path regardless of the relative direction of gravity.

I'd recommend calling your service person again for further troubleshooting.


The dark mark is a substance that melted from the heat. The unidentified mark appears to be a plastic material (at least in my opinion). This could be anything from a candy or cigarette wrapper to ziplock baggie.
Most likely it was in some ones pocket and went unnoticed after washing. If there is still a film remaining it would be wise to scrape it off so it doesn't transfer to any brilliant whites clothing in future dryer usage.


GE Powermark Electrical Panel - What Did the Last Guy Do?

Ground bar fun and games

The original installer's decision to fit a separate ground bar for the ground wires was a good one from a neatness standpoint, even though Code does not take issue with having all the grounds and neutrals on one bar at the main panel, as that's the only place where neutral and ground connect (via that bonding strap you see bottom left).

However, the choice of ground bars and ground bar locations available for your panel leaves us in a pickle.  None of the ground bars your panel accepts provide more than 14 connection points, and your panel is not labeled for multiple ground wires in a single ground bar hole as per NEC 110.14(A):

  Terminals for more than one conductor and terminals used
  to connect aluminum shall be so identified.

The only way I can explain this is that your panel predates that marking requirement in Code, leaving us with three not-great options if a subpanel is off the table given that your panel also does not have a factory provision for a second ground bar:

Stuff the new ground wires into unused holes in the neutral bar (one large, two small) in an annoyingly sloppy fashion.  This is the simplest option, and also the easiest to make Code-compliant right now, but has the downside that it'd make life harder for anyone who wants to convert this panel to a subpanel.
Rearrange the wires in the existing ground bar to free up one large and one small hole. This requires a bit of care to get the torquing right, since you are operating outside the loadcenter's labeling at this point, and also is technically a violation of the loadcenter's listing, although not any more so than the current situation.
Fit another ground bar to the panel (in-line with the existing bar is fine) and land your wires there, despite the fact your panel doesn't have provisions for this and isn't labeled for multiple ground bars.  A GE TGL2 kit can be used for this, although you will have to switch the machine screws used to mount it out for a pair of 10-32 (i.e. fine thread) self-tapping/self-drilling screws, such as Garvin GSSTs.  Note that ordinary (coarse thread) sheet metal screws are not suitable for this, as they will not engage two threads into the sheet metal of the cabinet as required by NEC 250.8(A) point 6:

  (6) Thread-forming machine screws that engage not less than
  two threads in the enclosure

Given these alternatives, I would choose the third if possible and the second if not, but this is a case where your local Code inspectors probably can provide more guidance than I can.

Other option: run a feeder to the garage

The other thing I would consider at this point is running a feeder from this panel to a subpanel in the garage.  This has the advantage that you will only need one grounding hole free in the main panel instead of a minimum of two, at least, and it also keeps the space usage in this already fairly tightly packed main panel to a minimum.

I would go with a 125A feeder here (using 1/0-1/0-1/0-1 aluminum SER cable and a TGL20 lug in the spare ground hole you free up for this, as well as a 286A8894G1 add-on neutral lug attached to the bar for the top row of neutrals) to a 125A, 30 space panel, in order to provide adequate room for expansion.  (Going beyond 125A is rather difficult here due to GE TQDL breakers being hard-to-find, and your panel cannot accept a 150 or 200A subfeed lug block it appears, for that matter, nor will it accept a 200A TQDL breaker.)


Why do some power tools work in an outlet and others won’t?

You should check if these outlets are attached to the wiring via back stab connections.

Back stab connections can show intermittent connection that could show up when the current demand of the larger appliance is loading the outlet.

If you have back stab connections the recommended course of action is to remove the outlet and replace with a quality one that uses the screws on the side to secure the wires, either by bending the wire the correct direction under the screw head or using the type where the screw tightens a wire clamp behind the screw head. Try to avoid the cheapest outlets that come of 0.49USD in packs of 10 and get one that costs a few USD and is labeled as a better quality unit.


Can I use rubber bumper pads to prop open a door?

Sounds more like a case for a doorstop -- either wedge style, or flip-down, or (what's becoming my personal favorite) magnetic -- to hold the door open rather than arguing with the latch. And that would leave you with the option of closing the door if you ever have houseguests or other reasons to do so.


Do shower water supply line covers need to be sealed or caulked?

I have personally never sealed or caulked the shower neck cover and haven't had any real moisture problems as a result.

The plate is mostly meant to be aesthetic rather than functional, to hide the ugly hole in your wall that your shower neck extends from.  Moisture shouldn't be a problem unless their was negative pressure inside of your wall as compared to the bathroom.  This of course shouldn't happen because you should have a fan going while you shower, and this fan will create a negative pressure in the bathroom vs. the inside of your wall. When the fan is running, air will actually move from the inside of the wall into the bathroom.

If it really concerns you then you can use a bit of paint around the edge to form a seal, but I don't think it is necessary.


Does a 3/8 valve instead of a 1/2 valve on a gas stove matter?

As long as the oven only needs the output from 3/8" then there is no issue with this at all.  I would think that that 3/8" could supply any home oven (that's still a lot of gas) so I don't think there is an issue at all.  If the manufacturer agrees then there is no reason for you to worry about it.

Frankly the installer probably installed the shut-off that he normally installs for ovens.  Most ovens are fed with 3/8" or 1/4" so he might not even have had this on him at the time.

This is akin to having a 1" water line going to a bathroom shower and a plumber using a 3/4" shutoff for it.  There are almost no shower valves that can even take 3/4" of water and certainly not 1".  Lazy I don't know.   If your shower has inputs of 1/2" or less it doesn't matter.  Just like if your oven can only take in the output of X (which may be less than a 1/4" feed) then it doesn't matter.  It only matters if he installed it right.


I'm a novice DIYer also from Calderdale. I recently repaired some pointing on a similar type of property. Unfortunately it doesn't match the rest of our pointing but I prefer the look of the result i'd be tempted to repoint the rest of the house.

Rake out the dead pointing, i used a mortar rake disc on mini grinder.

4 sand 1 cement and some plasteciser (in place of lime) from B&Q as quantified on the packaging.

I was advised from a few builders but other than that I probably know as much as you from online forums! :)


Which cutting style avionic snips do I choose if I have to choose just one?

Right snips are the most often used and it is possible to use only them, but if you want a neat and professional finish I would advise getting both right- and left-cutting, considering they are not that expensive for a decent set.

If you are a beginner with corrugated it may be worth getting offset snips if you're planning on cutting the length of sheets. If you are only doing penetrations or trimming corners etc. non-offset ones are the easiest to learn.


If you run the engines of the cars in your garage then that is probably source of the high humidity and the moisture. If this is the case, then you need to vent that area when the engines are running and for a short time after the engines are shut off. Burning fuels create a lot of water vapor. If it is not from the cars engines, Then i would check for water infiltration from the roof area. With all that insulation and the vapor barrier you have created a tight atmosphere in the garage. Any operation in the garage that gives off moisture will allow that moisture to collect on the ceiling and walls which can allow for mold to grow.


Can someone tell me what/how there are 4 wires on one switch and if they're necessary?

You need a 3-way version of the switch you have

Take the new switch you got back to where you got it and ask them for the 3-way version of it, as your existing switch is quite clearly a 3-way switch.  Once you have a 3-way switch in your hands, there will be 4 terminal screws on it: 1 green ground screw, 2 screws with the same color (often brass), and 1 differently colored (usually black) screw.

The red wire in your photo above went to the differently colored (black) screw on the old switch, so it goes to the differently colored non-ground screw on the new switch, while the top black wire in your photo goes to one of the same-colored non-ground screws on the new switch.  The two remaining black wires get nutted to each other and to a black pigtail going off to the remaining same-colored non-ground screw on the new switch, while any ground in the box should be connected (or pigtailed, if there is not a ground pigtail coming out already) to the green ground screw on the new switch.


Can I remove remaining studs below already installed load bearing beam?

I don’t understand the pictures, nor do I see where the remaining studs are located (seen in the photo).

However, in general, roof and floor loads are designed to be transferred all the way down through walls, posts, etc. to the foundation (and ultimately to the soil).

Someone removed part of a bearing wall and added a beam in the past, which caused the loads to be transferred differently to the foundation. Removing a few studs and leaving a few studs means that some of the loads are still being transferred through those remaining studs and into the existing foundation. If you remove those studs, you’ll increase loads to the beam and concentrate loads to the posts at the end of the beam and ultimately to the existing slab (which is not a footing).

If the beam, posts, footing, etc. are not adequately sized, they could fail. In order to know if the studs can be removed, someone will need to track the loads and verify each support and connection. Without a drawing or more info about what is above (and below) the studs, it’ll be difficult to make a judgment about removing those studs.

I’d recommend an architect or a structural engineer (not a civil engineer) to review your situation.

(Note: If there’s a refrigerator or waterbeds directly above those studs, I’d guess you cannot remove the remaining studs.)


How do I increase flame size in my outdoor fire pit?

Gas appliances come in various sizes/capacities. So if this one isn't "big enough":

Remove entire burner and control.
Replace with larger capacity burner and control.

Possibly also: replace gas line, upgrade gas service to house, etc. depending on current capacity and size of new burner.


Should I texturize my ceiling after removing popcorn?

I would leave it flat. That's the whole idea of scraping off popcorn. In almost ever home remodel show, they want to remove the popcorn.


That saddle valve discharge is not 1/4" pipe thread but instead is a 1/4" OD compression fitting. If you want to cap that fitting you need to purchase a cap for the 1/4" OD compression fitting. One thing to remember, not only can the valve leak but the rubber washer that seals the saddle to copper tubing will harden with time and could also fail. I hated saddle valves as a cheap install and instead used a "fitting by 1/4" pipe bushing" to make the connection or solder in a ball valve in standard copper and reduce it's discharge to 1/4" OD copper. my 2 cents


I would just glue them and leave some very heavy weights (evenly dispersed) on them for a couple days.  If the glue fails at some point, you can always reattach.  If the glue is working then screws are useless and aren't adding anything.


Can I switch my washer between two power sources? Double throw switch?

Move the double-pole switch to the washer.

A double-pole switch is just right.   You will switch hot and neutral.  You've already got one for the dryer; move it to the washer.

Switching neutral is essential when the outlets are fed from different circuits.  And these are served from different services, making it far more critical.

Get a 3-pole switch for the dryer.

The huge problem with electric dryers is that third wire is not ground. It is neutral.  It is an active conductor that handles normal current for all the 120V loads in the dryer - basically every internal device except the heater.  You must switch neutral.  You have connected the two service panel's neutrals back to back, which means neutral from either panel has two choices of path -- back through the service entrance, or via the dryer connection to the other tenant's panel.  This can cause all manner of problems, and is certainly the most likely way I can think of to set an apartment on fire.

(or you've connected neutral to only one service, but that has a whole 'nother way to set the house on fire).

Neutrals do not have circuit breakers.  The safety of the neutral wire depends absolutely on the concept that it only returns current from its circuit.  As soon as you criss-cross neutrals between circuits, you can overload that neutral. There is a variety of ways that could fail deadly.  Including some that could electrify the chassis of the dryer, because of that obsolete, unsafe 3-prong connection!

Things get even more serious when criss-crossing neutrals on two services, because now the criss-crossing neutral wire could carry all the current for the entire service. That'll start a fire for sure.

It is all right to criss-cross safety ground wires; in fact if you use metal conduit for your wiring method, it's inevitable. I have a building with 4 separate services all sharing the same metal pipes on a metal building, and thus, same safety ground. But the important thing is that a 3-wire dryer connection has no ground; that wire is neutral.

Lastly, I very strongly urge you to convert to a 4-wire connection to the dryer, including removing the (technically legal) neutral-ground bootleg strap. Because this type of switching adds a risk of a problem with the neutral (gee, you think? :) and on a 3-wire connection, that causes the chassis of the dryer to become electrified!

Rule of thumb: Don't do anything a GFCI would have a problem with

If you use a wiring technique that would trip a GFCI breaker, particularly sharing neutral, then don't do that. It was already against Code, but the GFCI keeps you honest :)

NEC 2014 already requires GFCI in the laundry room for 120V outlets e.g. washer.  I advise using GFCI protection before the transfer switch, so that everything associated with the switch is protected by GFCI.  That means a GFCI breaker, or a GFCI recep that feeds the transfer switch from its LOAD terminals.

NEC 2020 will require GFCI for the dryer as well, and the safest (and most affordable, actually) way to do that is before the transfer switch, so again, the transfer switch is in the zone of protection.  That way any screw-ups with the transfer switch are GFCI protected.

I know 90% of this  has been a "lecture", but I gotta give you more lecture.

In fact, actually do fit GFCIs... for liability.

Here is where GFCI can save your bacon.  Make sure that both transfer switches are served by GFCIs upstream of the transfer switch e.g. at the breaker - a GFCI switched by the switch is of no help.  However, for that to work, you MUST also convert the dryer to a 4-wire connection, and remove the neutral-ground jumper in the dryer, and also remove any other bootlegged grounds in this area (because those break GFCI protection).  If GFCIs are protecting, you're far better off with no ground than a bootlegged ground.  Neutral and ground must be totally separate for the GFCIs to protect.  Once the GFCIs are installed, it's less important that things actually be grounded, although retrofitting ground would be "belt and suspenders" and I would do it for liability reasons.

At this point, you've done your part to prevent an electrical shock, and one won't happen.  And if one does anyway:  the investigators will make a  "landlord made full and fair effort, no negligence here, don't charge with manslaughter" recommendation to the DA.  Now you're down to civil fines for violating the procedural stuff about permits and electricians.

All work in a rental unit must be done by a licensed electrician. That is state law in pretty much every state, and it's to prevent landlords doing their own "hack jobs". You can only do your own work in owner-occupied units.

Any work of this complexity requires a permit - precisely so the town inspector can keep an eye on the setup to make sure it is done correctly.

So you've already crossed the line on those; your only defense is doing the work well.


AC - frozen tubes, no air flowing when fan on and system off

Turn the system off and let it warm up this may take a while if the evaporator coil is frozen up. When a system charge is low icing of the coils is a indication. The fan motor may be bad but once fully defrosted it is possible it will work. (Thermal overload tripped and was just hot because the coils were iced up) . If you can not get into the evaporator coil the indoor one give it a good long time to thaw out there may be 20-40 pounds of ice in there and it takes a while. The green liquid could possibly be a leak we regularly narrow leaks down by spotting oil that has leaked. The green liquid could be condensate that has grown some green gunkies. Don't jump to conclusions I have seen systems do exactly what yours has done that worked after thawing. In these cases adding some Freon or in more severe cases pulling the system to a vacuum after repairing the leak and recharging has worked for me. The noise every 10 minutes may be the thermal overload on the fan resetting and then overheating from blocked coils. I did not see the photos on first review but the PVC line looks like your condensate line and it has been leaking could be plugged with algae or my technical term Green Gunkies.  The coil and drain need to be cleaned for health reasons! The heavy frost could be from a low Freon charge or the evaporator coil icing up and the heat exchange not occurring.  Since you can not open the evaporator get an HVAC person to do it it was probably sealed with calking that a razor knife can cut through the system must be opened and inspected at a minimum.


Should I rekey new locks before or after installing?

If you're going to re-key the locks yourself, it shouldn't matter.

If you need to have a locksmith do it, you'll save yourself paying for a service call if you can take the locks to the locksmith before you install them in the doors.


Attaching a wheel to a metal rod (axle)?

You may notice that the wheel is described as being suitable for carts, hand trucks, etc. and is not designed as a drive wheel. If your loads are not excessive, you may get away with powering the wheel.

One method is to cut a slot in the flange of the wheel at the axle. Your drive axle would then have to be powered by the motor and the portion of the axle that engages the wheel would have a hole drilled and a pin used to engage the wheel.

Another method would be to create a mounting for a pulley or gear. A pulley will be easier for alignment purposes. Drill a series of holes in the wheel (think numbers on a clock) and add spacers and bolts to match the pulley. Drive the pulley with another one mounted to the motor. This method would not require the axle to be rotating.

Along this same line of thought, one can use a bicycle sprocket mounted in a similar manner to the pulley and replace the belt with a bicycle chain.

Gears are not as easily installed as alignment is critical, while chains and belts are more forgiving when using the TLAR method (That Looks About Right) for attaching the mechanisms.

Belts and chains also provide for gearing adjustment. Perhaps you need more power and less speed. Use a small gear/pulley on the motor and a larger one on the wheel. For the reverse, more speed, make the wheel pulley smaller and/or the motor pulley larger. A small change in either will make a substantial difference.


It is probably 6-pair phone cable. Based on the picture, this is almost certainly not CAT-3, as the pairs are not twisted together.
The canonical example of such wire was 25-pair, used throughout phone systems of yesteryear. The catch is that old phone systems used 1 pair for each simultaneous voice connection and then a number of pairs (how it worked varied quite a bit) for very low-speed signaling between the phones and the main unit. If it turns out to actually be CAT-3 then you should be able to get 10 Megabits out of it. If it isn't even CAT-3 then there are various adapters, line drivers, etc. and you should be able to get a couple of Megabits (i.e., similar to DSL speed, though different technology), but not necessarily much better (and possibly worse) than the coax you have now.


Re-Routing my sump discharge piping inside the house

Adding in more bends and more horizontal run will increase the load on the pump.  However this is a sump pump, so the volume being pumped is quite low and hence the water speeds are low (which means the load from a bend is low too).

This pump has a maximum head of 25 feet, so it has plenty of spare pressure to deal with some bends.


Water pressure became a problem - city water

You may have galvanized water piping in the house or between the street and the house.  Over time these pipes corrode and the corrosion and collection of minerals makes the inside diameter of the pipes much smaller.  This restricts the flow of water and would explain your issue.  Sadly there is no good fix beyond having the piping replaced with modern copper or plastic.  See this article, note the 5th paragraph describes your issue with the shower and washer exactly.


How do I connect a 24v air purifier to hvac?

From the Owner's manual.

Hardwiring Requirements (24V and 230V Operation)
For 24V models: Connect black and white wires to a dedicated 40Va transformer.
(Not Provided.)

Notice that it says "to a dedicated 40Va transformer". This means that you'll have to install a 40VA transformer to power the device, not use the transformer in the HVAC unit.


2006 Kohler bathroom faucet how to remove, has toggle "nut" different than one here already

Obviously, you first remove the stopper linkage, then unscrew the toggle nut. The fact that the large washer has two tabs that project down through the toggle nut makes me wonder, but I would go ahead and twist the toggle CCW and see what happens.


It is safe.

If you use 2x75w incandescent bulbs, the current would be 2*75W/120V=1.25A, which is way below 6A. If you use LED bulbs the current will be much smaller than 1.25A.


Two pole breaker for 240v circuit loses one side

Almost certainly a bad breaker.   Square D Homeline is the cheaper model than the QO breakers, but you'll have to replace it with another Homeline breaker since the QO breakers won't fit in a homeline panel.
BTW, I noticed that you are running 10ga wire.  That isn't rated for 40 amps.  And to be running 40 amps to a pump, it must be a heck of a big pump.  What's it being used for? Commercial irrigation?
Also, it may be a loose connection someplace, like the wires themselves or the feed to the panel.


Just dealing with the matting question, I would assume regular matting would be ok, you will just need a lot of it. Assuming you will have one, I would keep the outside ramp clean, then have a commercial-quality welcome mat outside the door, and another two inside. (Like, the 3'x5' or so ones. Your goal is that the wheels have to make at least 1 complete revolution before leaving the mats.)

It may also be prudent (depending on your house) to have a different flooring for the area around the door, designed for higher wear.


Correct order of operations for caulking + sealing bathroom tile?

Those answers are all wrong, I've been a general contractor for thirty years and have had to repair other "experts" work on a regular basis.

seal tile first.
clean very well with acetone or lacquer thinner and let dry
tape off both tub and sealed tile with blue tape so your completed job looks nice.
fill the entire void with polyurethane such as sidewinder to completely fill void(do not grout there the movement of the tub WILL crack the grout).
wipe it down with your finger dipped in paint thinner then pull tape and discard and wipe one more time with your finger to lay edges flat.


Well Pressure Greater than 100 psi to pressure tank

Must be a faulty pressure switch.  You can try loosening the main spring tension in there see if that helps.  You can turn off the breaker and get that pressure down a bit and try to figure out why the well pump does not turn off.  Pressure is high because the well pump is not cutting out at 60 psi anymore for some reason.


You want to tighten the screws so that the cable's outer insulation is just compressed a bit which should leave you with the wire unable to move in or out of the box unless you apply a lot of pressure.
You do not want to compress it so much that the inner insulation is compressed or the wire itself is deformed.
Yes, the tendency is to overtighten these.  My rule-of-thumb is tighten gently and check if the wire can move.  If it does, tighten a bit more until you get it right.
You CANNOT "undamage" a wire once it's been damaged so proceed carefully.


Shaky, noisy and hard to open bi-fold doors

Bi-fold doors are just terrible. Even at their best they're often jiggly and awkward. They're such a pain that half of them end up perpetually open.

I'd look at replacing the hardware with a kit from your local store. They'll include track, door lap guides, upper rollers, and bottom pins and brackets.

Another problem is when the carpenter puts the knobs in the wrong place. They're often set right near the hinges. This makes the closing force all wrong, which results in premature wear and deformation of hardware. Ideally, the knobs will be in the center of the inner panel. This allows force to be applied in all necessary directions for both opening and closing action.


Is there a minimum distance required between holes in the ceiling dry wall to prevent in cracks or weak in between areas?

as long as all of these are true, you should be good to go:

your recessed cans are properly anchored to ceiling joists
your speaker cans are also anchored to joists
your ceiling drywall does not have anything suspended from it, unattached to a joist

you shouldn't have anything pressing down on your ceiling drywall; it's only something that covers up your wooden understructure. you do need to ensure that there's no load pulling down on it, and you should be OK.