Replacing the power button on washing machine

Modern washers and dryers, and this one is no exception, use a control panel that is a plastic overlay over domed touch buttons. Sometimes these plastic overlays will also have clear windows that allow LED indicators to shine through as well.

The LEDs and touch switch domes are all mounted onto a circuit board that is part of a sandwich comprised of the overlay, the circuit board and possibly also a metal or hard plastic rear support plate.

Common types of failure of the touch dome switches are:

The domes become intermittent and will not reliably register with the internal microprocessor to invoke the desired function.
The domes lose their springiness and collapse so that they no longer operate as a touch button.
Sometimes the plastic overlay material cracks around the most often used buttons. A complete piece of the plastic will often come away leaving the underlying circuitry exposed.

Unfortunately the fix for bad or broken touch buttons is to replace the whole control panel assembly. This is often not a welcome option because the part can be quite expensive. But it is really the only way to restore the function and appearance of the original product.

Some electronics technician or hobbyist or engineer could possibly replace a broken touch button with a discrete push button switch. However that type of fix will always look like a kludge even though it may actually function okay.


Any type of filler other than grout shouldn't be used to fill the joints between tiles. You will need an approved cement-type grout either sanded or not. Sanded is called for when grout joints are wider than 1/8- 3/16 inches.
You can also use a two part epoxy-type grout which is more durable and mold resistant, but is much less forgiving to use.
Any caulk or silicone won't last very long in a wet environment and is difficult to apply to just the joints.
Re-grouting entails removing any cracked or damaged grout with a grout saw or similar tool. By hand it is a tedious and slow job. There are
power tools with attachments for grout removal that will shorten the work, but attention needs to be had in order to not damage the tile.
Once grout is removed from the affected area and the debris vacuumed out new grout can be troweled into the joints. It is easiest to color match the grout if there is grout left over from before. A similar color from the store may not match exactly.
Seal with an appropriate grout sealer when dried and before using the shower. (1-2 days).


Should there be standing water in the drain pipe under my second floor shower?

Yes, it's a trap for your shower, just like you have a trap under your sink. The P trap prevents sewer gases from coming back into the home, which would smell, and possibly cause a methane explosion.


Can I mount my hangboard on a wooden ceiling beam?

Structural engineer here.

The beam is almost surely not stressed to it's limit. I'm not sure where you are at, that is, if you are in a snow area, but roofs are designed for loads that don't happen all the time such as snow, water, construction, etc.

Also, wood as a material has the ability to resist higher short term loads.

For a beam that size, I would have no problem with what you propose. Because, if that beam  needs to be that size due to loads then the additional 180 lb live load is relatively small. My main concern, as stated in another answer, is HOW you attach it.

Generally you'll be fine with a few screws say of the typical size #8 (length not important) anywhere. If you need larger, stay away from the lower 1/3 of the beam where it is in tension.


Is there a hinge which will move both connected doors when just a single door is moved?

Some variant of "geared continuous hinges" or "geared door hinges" can be adopted to do this.  Examples:


How can I stop wardrobe door from automatically closing?

As Chris Cudmore states in his comment, it is most likely a leveling issue (the other, but less likely cause could be misaligned hinges).

Place a level across the top of the front of the unit.  Note whether it is level or not. Then do the same across the top of one of the sides.

If the unit is tipped, but only front to back (the front test was level), you should try to raise both of the legs on the low side. Any solid lift that fits under the leg base will do, but the simplist approach is usually small plastic wedges.

Similarly, if the unit is only tipped to one side (front test shows slant, but side test does not), wedge both legs on the short side.

If there is a tilt both side to side and front to back, try wedging just the lowest corner. Then add additional wedges as needed. You might need three, but not four.

Keep testing in both directions until the unit is level all around. Check the door again.  It is likely that both doors may swing only when pushed.

P.S. The reason only one door swings shut now is probably because the swinging door is actually falling toward the low side.  The opposite door is already on the low side when it is opened. Minor differences in hinge tension may make one more likely to swing than the other, but the first line of defense is to eliminate the reason for the swing rather than suppressing the ability to swing.

If this does not cure it, you may have a hinge problem, which is another answer altogether.

SUPPLEMENT: On many more recently manufactured furniture, there are often built in levelers that avoid the need for wedges.

These are threaded pads set into the bottoms of the legs of furniture. You raise the height of the corner by twisting clockwise (when looking from the top). If you have them, use them.

Also, once you determine the height to raise a corner, you may be able substitute rubber furniture cups, if the plastic wedges seem too slippery. These will work if the height is about the amount that you have determined you need using the wedge (or if they can be trimmed to make it right).


How to get rid of CO₂ in a house with A/C in hot summer?

You want an high-efficiency heat exchanger.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_recovery_ventilation

Basically, you pipe in fresh air, but have it cooled before, while you heat out the air that is going out. It's typically installed on central hvac systems.

It needs maintenance to be efficient and it is quite often overlooked by contractors as it's hard to notice when it's not working.


How can I unclog my gutter downspouts from the ground?

There is an adapter that connects the output of a leaf blower to the bottom of the downspout and blows the debris back out the way it came (sometimes you can even do it without an adapter).  It works pretty well if it is a recent accumulation.  Note, though, that you will get covered in a shower of disgusting stuff (gravity working for you).

But if it has been decomposing for several seasons and turning into a solid block of adobe filling the inside the downspout, that may not work.  In that case, the snake and hose is probably the tool of choice to try first.  Smacking the downspout in the vicinity of the clog can help loosen it.

They make a special nozzle for the hose that puts out both a high pressure forward spray, and side sprays that also spin the nozzle, creating a rotating jet of water that helps to break things up and wash it out.  It can be a long slow process that will raise your water bill and flood your yard, turning it into a mud field by the time you're done.

Sometimes the fastest solution to stubborn downspouts is just to start taking sections apart.  A few screws and a section comes off.  Clogs tend to build from the bottom up so if you're lucky, the bottom-most section will either do it, or make it easier to get the rest out by simpler means.  Once a section is removed, low tech smacking, blowing, or pushing is usually enough to clean it.


Do there exist smoke detectors with detached silencers?

This is really close to a shopping question which is off topic. But, the term you need to look for is smart smoke detector. These are internet capable devices and some of them can be managed as an IoT device.


How to sand plaster corner using oscillating tool?

I would forget about power tools and get a 1" chisel. Trace out the area with pencil and shave out the area with the chisel. You're talking about a very small area so it shouldn't take long. Afterwards, smooth out with a sanding block. As always, wear a dust mask when sanding.


Dishwasher fault when directly wired but not when on an extension cord

Just guessing from the information you provided:

If there is a partial ground in your dishwasher wiring it can draw enough current to trip the breaker.

When you run it through the extension cord it adds enough resistance to limit the current so it doesn't trip the breaker.

I would suspect if it is an older machine the motor is leaking current through the insulation on the windings.

It may be time for a new one but double check the wiring just in case.

Good luck!


How do I wire one outlet and two separate light switches in a three-gang box?

Incoming Power
Power comes in currently from a cable that is nutted to another cable in an octagon box. You mentioned a red wire, visible capped in the box. However, it is not clear whether the red wire is in the cable coming from the panel to that box or whether it is in the cable coming from that box to the bathroom switch/receptacle. It doesn't matter much - either way you don't actually need it - but wherever it is, you should make sure it is capped with a wire nut on both ends for safety.
In addition, the power coming in to the switch/receptacle is a black cable. The color has meaning which makes black an unusual choice. Normally it is white for 14-gauge/15 Amp or yellow for 12-gauge/20 Amp. Black is apparently for much heavier wire. That is safe, but you need to make sure that anything you connect to it can handle that size wire. Fortunately, you will be using wire nuts to connect everything, so it shouldn't be a problem. Just "different".
You also need to make sure that ground is connected all the way through - panel->octagon box->new 3-gang box->switches & receptacle & cables up to lights.
The Big Split
You need to get power to three locations: receptacle, switch 1, switch 2. You need to get neutral to three locations: receptacle, light 1, light 2. Use some short pieces of 12-gauge wire (you can pull them out of a chunk of yellow cable) to make pigtails. Three short black pieces wire nutted to the incoming black wire one short white piece to the incoming white wire.
Receptacle - GFCI?
Bathroom receptacles must be GFCI-protected. However, ideally you do not want the lights to be GFCI-protected, so that if the GFCI trips the lights don't go out. If the circuit is already protected by a GFCI breaker in the panel, then you don't have a choice about protecting the lights, but you also don't have to do anything special here and just install a regular duplex receptacle. If the circuit is not already protected by a GFCI breaker in the panel, then install a GFCI duplex receptacle.
Connect one of the black pigtails to the hot screw on the receptacle and the white pigtail to the neutral screw. If you are installing a GFCI here, make sure to use only Line and not Load.
Switches
For each switch, connect a black pigtail to one screw. If they are simple switches, it doesn't matter which screw you use. But if they are smart switches, dimmer switches or timers then check the instructions to see which screw is hot == black pigtail vs. switched hot == black wire on cable to light.
Lights
For each light, run a cable (I'd stick with yellow = 12-gauge) from the 3-gang box to the fixture. In the 3-gang box, connect white to the incoming white (i.e., the same place you added one white pigtail) and black to the remaining/switched hot screw on a switch.
Connect each light fixture to black (switched hot), white (neutral) and ground.
Connect all grounds together, and you should be all set.
Testing
In addition to testing each switch/light, check the GFCI (if you installed one) using the TEST button. If it doesn't power up at all or RESET doesn't work after pressing TEST then you may have something wired incorrectly.


Cheap alternatives to translucent polycarbonate sheet?

I'm rather fond of polycarb corrugated roofing panels. They price out at about $1/sf and are available in transparent-but-distorted charcoal or clear, and translucent white that diffuses as you wish.


Partially finished basement needing dehumidification

If you get one larger dehumidifer, it  is generally more energy efficient than two smaller ones running in separate areas as noted by Keshlam. However, it also may not dehumidify both spaces equally depending on air flow. It all depends on the possible products available, the spaces you are planning to condition, and the degree of accuracy you wish to control humidity in both spaces.

If you are running two of the same dehumidifier (buying a second to supplement an existing rather than upsizing to a single more efficient model), then theoretically it could consume the same energy depending on the specs of the dehumidifier (starting the dehumidifiers has an initial spike in energy to get the motors going, so doubling the power required to start two motors instead of one might make two a slightly less efficient configuration, but most likely not enough to make a noticeable impact). However, this isn't a theoretical physics problem with round cows--there are a lot of variables. The cycle times (off/on) could be very short if they are oversized for the space and desired set point--thus shortening the lives of the dehumidifiers and factoring into cost. Or, the cycle times could be very long if undersized for the space--thus shortening the lives of the dehumidifiers and factoring into cost. Basically, as long as you make sure that the dehumidifiers are adequately sized to condition the space (whether you go with one or more), then it shouldn't be too noticeable from a cost of perspective to have multiple dehumidifiers instead of one (apart from the up-front cost of more than one dehumidifier). Also, I'm personally not a huge fan of added fan noise in conditioned spaces like you would get with a second dehumidifier if you're considering that as part of added comfort.


Call the firefighters telling them that you smell gas, then if there are issues. If FF will find an issue, you'll have the right to ask your company for a fix.

Anyway: gas is a bad beast, so call FF just for your own safety.


Is there a way to even out the paint without painting whole wall

Sand it a bit and paint over it. Feather out the edges. Should work just fine.


Aggregate is the gravel and sand that is mixed with cement and water to make concrete. so the surface you see is the concrete of the patio.

Exposed aggregate is prepared by applying a chemical to the surface of fresh concrete which slows the hardening of the top layer.  when the bulk of the concrete is hard the top cement is hosed off exposing the aggregate. (the run-off makes a real mess)

You've got a few options to resurface. you could use a skim coat of mortar slurry  with some additive to improve bonding resulting in a classic concrete looking surface. or a leveling compound. It probably wants a good cleaning before you try to bond anything to it.

Or you could grind it down to get the terazzo-like look of cut concrete

Or you could tile it.


How do I widen a hole in wood for flex tube?

Now you've learned the hard way, the same way the rest of us learned, why they say "measure twice."

A spade bit may work for this trick, but an auger bit may be easier to control. First, use the bit to cut a hole in center of some scrap wood. A piece of plywood that's 4"x6" would work well, and a 2x4 that's 6-8" long would also work. You need a few inches on each side of the hole, and enough so that it doesn't shatter apart when the drill bit is vibrating inside, but thickness isn't that important. Since you're working in a crawl space, start a few screws on each side of the hole that you drilled.

In the crawl space, line up the hole in the scrap wood with your existing hole and screw it into place so it doesn't move. This wood is now your guide to keep the drill bit from running all over the place. Put your drill bit inside this guide, make sure you're aligned, and drill your larger hole.


Can I convert a wall lamp into a usb socket?

While there are other options involving wiring, the safest option that does not involve an electrician is a light bulb to outlet adapter.  Here, the version for use in countries with Edison base A19 bulbs:

Someone else can add advice for other regions.  In the case of a USB socket a third prong is generally not required, though chargers in the UK generally have a plastic fake third prong anyway.


Although it is a really bad photo , I believe it is a 4 wire phone jack. These were very popular back then you could move a phone room to room at a time when each handset cost extra on the bill. To verify this normally small solid copper wires were connected red, green, yellow black insulation. On higher end homes there may be a 25 pair trunk instead the 2 pair cable , these larger trunk wires were normally used for intercoms.


Help me identify my rough in plumbing pipes

If the basement bathroom requires a sewage pump, one of those pipes (quite possibly #3) will be the output of the sewage pump going up to the level of the house drain (which is presumably above the floor level, if a sewage pump pit was roughed in.) Pull the cover off the pit and poke a snake into the pipes...
Or if there's only one pipe into the pit, and the pump output would go out via the cover, it may be a vent pipe and cleanout access.
Lack of vent pipes above the concrete is fairly normal. The rough in is "put pipes before pouring concrete" rather than "prepare all for a bathroom that hasn't been put in for the next 11 years, and may never be" - pipes above the concrete are easier to add than those below.
Sump basins are pretty generic - make sure the pump you want to buy fits in the one you have, but that's pretty much physical size of pump and hole, not brand-specific. The part number is for exactly what it is - a sump cover. There will be a sump basin under it, with the plumbing run to it if it's in fact for a sewage pump. An alternate possibility (not knowing where your sewage or septic pipe leaves your house) is that the sump cover is covering "the other kind of sump" (drainage) and the bathroom plumbing goes directly to your septic or sewer pipe below floor level. Once again suggesting open it, take a look, poke a snake in the pipes and see where it comes out, or listen for it, anyway.


Cavity wall insulation brick replacement

My understanding is that the insulation is stuck together with some kind of resin so it won't just fall out. I've seen one house where small polystyrene beads had "leaked out" around a poorly sealed vent, presumably during installation, and had then solidified into a sort of large drop shape. Presumably this depends on the exact type on insulation. The British National Insulation Association (I'd never heard of them either) mention two types of cavity wall insulation: blown mineral wool and expanded polystyrene beads. Mineral wool is fibrous and sticks to itself so is unlikely to be a problem. Regarding the EPS beads, they say:

  The polystyrene used for [cavity wall insulation] is in the form of virgin pre-formed bead which is usually combined with a binding agent or adhesive at the time of injection.

Removing the brick shouldn't be too hard with a grinder. After cutting out the mortar, you could drill a couple of holes, insert some plugs and screw some chunky screws in to be able to pull the whole brick out.

You can get mortar guns to push mortar in around bricks. Never used one myself but they should help you do a good job in a situation like this.


What type of compression fitting do I need?

You don't need the compression nut. With that water hose, you should connect it directly to your water supply shutoff valve.

The compression nut is used when you have a copper pipe as your water supply, like this:

If that's what you have, remove the nut and the copper pipe. Your braided pipe connects to the water supply like this:

And connects to your dishwasher like this:

Use the teflon tape ONLY on the threads between the elbow and the dishwasher. The braided hose has a gasket so DO NOT use teflon tape on those threads.


Are plastic dryer vent fittings (not hose) allowed with gas dryers?

In general, yes, unless otherwise specified.
I wasn't able to find much information about the specific one you linked, but if you go to other home improvement websites, they tend to list more information, as well PDF spec sheets. Home Depot for example, has a bunch of these made of plastic, that all say they are OK for use with gas or electric dryers.
If there is a manufacturer phone number on the box or tag for this specific unit, I would just give them a call and ask.


How can I connect a WIFI thermostat to a Honeywell R845A switching relay?

According to this document, the internal wiring of that relay looks like this.

It sounds like it's connected something like this.

When the thermostat calls for heat, the T terminals are connected through the thermostat. This causes the relay to energize, which closes the contact between terminals 5 and 6 (It also closes a contact between 3 and 4). When terminals 5 and 6 are connected, the heater, pump, valve, etc. turns on.

Because the transformer is built into this device, it's going to be difficult (possibly impossible) to connect a C wire. You'd have to connect the wire to the other side of the transformer, something like this.

You'll also have to check with the manufacturer, to determine if the transformer can handle the additional load of the thermostat.

You might want to contact Honeywell, to see if they offer a similar relay that exposes the C terminal.  If they do, you could replace this device with the one with the proper terminals.

What you're trying to do, is something like this.

Which as you can see in the diagram, is not going to work so well.


Can I integrate a 4800W heater into my current garage electrical setup? I seem to need too many circuits

There is one way you could do this without a panel replacement that would be safe - whether or not it would be "to code" I'll leave up to the peanut gallery.  (who I am sure will not like this answer at all)
Tear out your 20A circuit and replace it with a 30A with a 30A receptacle.  Not only replace the plug on the saw - but replace the entire CORD on the saw with a 30A cord and terminate the cord in a "motor controller switch" mounted on the saw that has properly rated overload heaters in it that are sized for the current draw of the motor at 240v  (which is likely to be around 6-7 amps if it's a table saw like I'm thinking)  Then run the regular cord from the motor controller/switch to the motor.
Building codes don't cover internal appliance wiring and of course the moment you modify the saw (by replacing the cord) you are no longer covered by UL or any of the other certifications and you are letting the manufacturer off the hook should the saw burn the place to the ground.  But, it is "safe" (as safe as any saw can be - which isn't much) since the motor controller switch protection is no worse than a breaker (and probably better)  And considering the number of tool manufacturers who have bit the dust over the last 2 decades there's a good chance your saws manufacturer isn't around to sue anyway even if you didn't modify it and it burned the place to the ground.
I have a shop full of older metal woodworking tools made in an era where the prevailing wisdom was something along the lines of "we don't need no steenking ground wires" and were all, in their day "to code" so I tend to take "code" with a bit of suspicion.


How do I know if an asphalt surface needs planing or not?

Whether to plane the surface or not before an overlay is a complete judgment call. You are comparing the general condition of the current road in combination with it's current thickness. An overlay needs to bridge underlying imperfections and absorb differential movement. The more massive the underlying tarmac, the more likely it is to overwhelm the overlay's ability bridge and absorb. Which results in the cracks and such in the old surface reappearing in the overlay.

Planing the old material off reduces it's mass so the overlay has an improved chance of bridging and absorbing imperfections. Planing alone is commonly similar in cost to an overlay, so doubling the cost of the whole job sounds about right. The risk of not doing it is that the overlay is overwhelmed and imperfections appear prematurely. The next time around, planing WILL be required. Now you've paid three times the overlay cost in a short period. Paying for planing now can prevent paying for it in the near future.

The risk of planing is spending money when it is not required. If the overlay alone can absorb and bridge imperfections adequately, it will last just as long as if it were planed first, so planing is a waste of money.

It really takes someone with a lot of experience in road work to make this kind of judgment. There's no formula where you can enter the level of damage and the thickness and get an answer. I've seen well qualified roads people argue back and forth if planing is worth it or not, so it comes down to who you feel is most trustworthy and has the experience and judgment to honestly assess your situation and make a recommendation considering your needs and not their profit margin.


How to dismantle doorknob (separate baseplate and knob) to screw on door?

I've used an offset screwdriver for similar cases like this. Even if you did disassemble the doorknob from the plate it would be impossible to re assemble it after screwing in the plate.

Try one of these:


I have 2 single slots (left & right) at bottom of panel but using 12/3 wire for two separate runs

You will need a double pole breaker, or two breakers connected by handle ties for a multi-wire branch circuit.  If you're wiring outdoor receptacles, you'll likely want GFCI breakers, instead of AFCI.

You should be able to shuffle breakers around in the panel, to accommodate the double pole breaker.

All that said. It sounds like you are quite inexperienced, and you may want to either do more research, or find somebody who has electrical experience to help you.


How to repair (and is it worth the trouble to) a rusty dishwasher rack?

ReRack from Performix (same people that make Plasti-Dip) is specially made for repairing dishwasher racks. It has decent reviews on Amazon.com.


How can I reduce RF interference from LED light tubes?

You bought LED replacement "tubes" which are called plug-n-play and allow you to not mess with the ballast -- but also require you retain the ballast.  You are now married to the worst of both worlds: the EMI/RFI output of the legacy ballast, which could be considerable for a magnetic ballast, and also whatever EMI is coming from the new LED "tubes", which can also be considerable if they're cheap.

If you really want to go LED, you would be better off going with LED direct-wire replacement "tubes", and bypassing the ballast.   You may want to consult the Sylvania documentation and see if they are capable of also operating in direct-wire mode; some are dual-mode like that. Don't just give it a whirl.

Otherwise pull down your fixtures, see how they are wired (instant vs rapid start, 1 vs 2 wires per lamp end) and get direct-wire LED "tubes" which are compatible with your lamp wiring.  And bypass the ballast.  Be sure to consult the factory to learn what kind of EMI the LED "tubes" will be emitting if any.

Plan "B" is to find a quality ballast with known very low EMI, and change that ballast, then either try your LED "tubes" or just use real fluorescent tubes.  The light from them is superb these days, better than LED.

Plan "C" is that they make DC power supplies with the same formfactor as fluorescent ballasts.  I scored several hundred of them on eBay for nothin'.  Then get LED strips, two 5m rolls of 3528s should replace 3 fluorescent tubes, and cut them to fit in the fixture and power them off that DC supply.  Obviously, the EMI output of the power supply will be the ruling factor; DC LED strips have no EMI at all unless you dim them.

Lastly, check your grounding.  If your grounding is less than tip-top, it will greatly increase EMI.  If the grounding is not tip-top, make it so, remembering that Code now broadly allows retrofitting of just a ground wire.


When wiring outlets should I use pigtails or both sets of outlet screws?

I rarely see pigtails to join the outlet line/load connections in any of the renovation work I've done. I think it's just easier for the electrician to wire both parts of the outlet, rather than getting a small piece of wire, twist, affix nut, and attach to the outlet. It also takes up less space in the j-box.

Of course the line/load are pigtailed in other j-boxes (e.g. lighting fixtures and switches) since they don't have two screw terminals. And you would pigtail the lines before a GFCI if the next device shouldn't be protected by that GFCI outlet, but otherwise you would always use the line/load terminals in a GFCI.


Cannot change shower temperature - Cartridge issue?

Yes, these do fail.
I have one almost identical to yours and have had to replace the cartridge a few times in 15 years.


How can I fix a ceiling above the shower that was damaged by water?

What's up there depends on the age of the home and how much the contractor cared when they spec'ed it. Most likely, the ceiling is some form of gypsum board that is then plastered, textured and painted. The result of water leakage on gypsum board is usually that the entire board starts to sag under its own weight; alternately, the outer layer of paper, along with any spackle, texture and paint, will peel away with the damp.

Unfortunately, drywall repair == drywall replacement. You have to cut away the damaged portion, fit and screw a new piece of drywall into that hole (using rust-resistant screws as this area already has a reputation for moisture), then tape, spackle, seal, texture, prime and paint.

On top of that, many types of ceiling texture such as "popcorn" ceilings are simply impossible to blend in with when you do a repair like this; tiny differences in the application of the texture along with the sudden stop/start to the old texture around the patch will make repairs obvious. To really do the job right, you have to re-texture the entire ceiling by scraping off the old stuff, smoothing the surface with sandpaper or plaster, then reapplying texture, priming and painting.

If you're going to do all this anyway, I would recommend replacing the entire piece of drywall that has been leaked on with a more water-tolerant product like backer board (DuRock, Hardee-Backer, etc). This product is normally used in areas where water and/or heat can be a problem, and are durable enough to get soaked without crumbling apart unlike gypsum board. These products are generally a different thickness than drywall so you'll need to level the ceiling with lath strips of the proper supplemental thickness on the joists. After that, installation should proceed much like with drywall (you may need to smooth the surface with more plaster; backer board is commonly used as underlayment for tile and so often has a mesh that grips thinset).


Fixing leaky Delta faucet - what am I doing wrong?

Looks, and sounds like, the actual metal part of the valve seat is probably messed up from over tightening. It could possibly be fixed with a grinding stone that is fine grit and the same diameter, to reface the metal. But be careful to not take too much off or the seals won't seat properly. You might also look at the warranty that came with the faucet. It could have a lifetime warranty and be as easy as getting a replacement.


Can a kitchen faucet be installed by someone with no experience?

It depends:

on the sink
on the faucet
on the location
on the tools you have
on your skill level (in general, not experience on sinks)

The two biggest issues in installing a faucet are reaching the components that need to be tightened and properly sealing the connections and the base.

The place where a faucet is attached (mechanically) and has its supply lines connected (plumbing) tend to be difficult to reach once the sink is in place.  That is why these are often attached before a sink is mounted in a cabinet. You end up lying on your back under the sink trying to reach above you into a small tight area with little room to swing a tightening tool.

There are specialty tools that make it somewhat easier such as these

basin wrench

faucet tool

Some fixtures can have their connecting supply lines pre-attached to the faucet end, and then dropped through the sink hole. Then the mechanical connection is made. The connection to the supply pipe is usually easier to reach than the connection on the faucet end once installed.

It is important to use the right kind of connection depending on your supply line. Most are screw on connectors and need teflon tape to seal the connection.

Also the faucet needs to be seated in plumbers putty to seal around its edges and prevent water leakage to the underside of the sink.

Most faucets have reasonable instructions and it's not rocket surgery, but you need to assess your general skills and comfort level. Even reasonably skilled folks manage to cause leaks when installing fixtures that can damage a floor or a ceiling below. (I know my wife will eventually forgive me for the ripples in the new plasterboard in the room below the bathroom sink I fixed.)


is it common not to have wood under the stucco on walls on a new home ??

Original three coat stucco used a 17-ga or 18-ga wire in a hexagonal mesh similar to chicken wire. Over-lapping horizontal layers of black tar paper would be attached to the studs or to sheathing and the wire mesh fastened to the studs and sheathing through the tar paper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihp0QaUZc18

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqYgqbiwqNs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQ5N69SoAJE

A house now under construction in my neighborhood was entirely sheathed in green ZIP OSB. Part of the exterior is stucco. The installers put black felt over the ZIP board and then nailed a metal mesh different from the original type over that. I assume they nailed into the studs and in between. I saw them apply the first coat. I don't know how many coats are used in this application, but I suspect it is only two.


In a perfect world, if everything in a house was level and flat, scribe molds would not be needed or at least easy to install. The need to scribe a molding in depends on a few things.

1.The size of the molding to be scribed.

If a molding is already narrow on the face and is trimmed down the difference will be immediately detectable. In my opinion, it is all about proportions. A 3" wide molding can handle a taper of a 1/4" off one edge much better than a 1" molding. That amount off a 3" molding over a 5' run is much less noticeable than the same amount of taper on a 1" molding. Length of run makes a difference too. Picture in your mind the same amount of taper on a much shorter piece.

Placement on the wall.

The conditions the wall the molding is going on, in your case the material appears to be ship lap, if that material is not run level and the last board is tapered wider on the left end and narrow on the right, which is what it appears the situation you have, tapering the molding so it is level will exacerbate the difference in the last panel, plus on top of that, the taper the scribe molding has. Sometimes while trimming a house, you cannot rely on level, level can be a reference point, but not a line to follow, especially in an old house where things have shifted or settled.

In this condition you have, I would not trim the scribe mold at all, set it to the ceiling to follow it, that will reduce the amount of difference in the last panel. At the most, I would scribe the slight bow in the ceiling, to aid in making the bottom edge a bit straighter, but not much more than that.

While I am installing a wall such as yours, I take measurements in 3 places, in the width and the height. The width measures tell me how easily the ends will be to cut, whether I have to change the angles as I go up the wall or live with a big caulk joint. The measure of the height, tells me if I need to adjust one or more pieces to get a good finish, or at least make sure the stuff that ends up at eye level is looking good. If the floor and ceiling is running out of level the same amount, I would tend to follow the floor so the rip at the ceiling is the same width all the way through. This has exceptions of course, but it would be my first consideration. Always check your progress at halfway points, halfway up the wall, go up again halfway to 3/4 height over all, and check dimensions again adjusting as needed.

In your case, if the top panel is tapered to meet the ceiling, I would consider puling it down and tapering it no more than a 1/4" over all to reduce the difference at the ceiling. If the difference is a lot, you may want to taper more than one. The scribe molding to me is already small enough to not handle a trimming to a taper, but it could handle a slight dip to go around a hump in the ceiling.


That old PVC pipe is highly unlikely to be up to code for carrying a pressurized water distribution line.

You also do not want to place water service outside like that because it will freeze and burst the pipes when it gets cold in winter (unless you live in an Amazon tropical zone or Hawaii).

Proper installation is to install it inside near to the heated space of the home. Use of copper or PEX would be the preferred material for the water lines. If you use PVC makes sure that it is a proper type for pressurized water service.


Possible causes of a loss of TV signal after reorganising masthead amp and splitter

So it turns out that this wasn't a signal or hardware issue, it was an air-gap issue. I'd incorrectly labelled one of the cables and ended up thinking both ends of the same cable were different cables (that's what you get running cables behind walls).

After discovering this and plugging the correct things into the right places, everything worked as expected - except I feel a lot sillier than I did before.


Are grounded receptacles with open grounds causing my electrical problems?

If you have power at the breaker, and no power at the room then you have a bad connection somewhere in between. Time to start tracing wires and opening up junction boxes and outlets to check connections - or to hire an electrician to do that for you. There really isn't a "simple, quick" way to do this.

You may find a somewhat overheated looking connection along the way, or more than one, or you may find an actual broken wire, or you may find a wire that is has power on one end but not on the other, and thus broken (or chewed through, or nailed/screwed through) in the wall; though you should always check to see if you might have missed a junction box in that instance.


How should I seal a metal window frame to a cinder block wall?

Urethane or 100% silicone caulk. Urethane for the best bond and toughness, silicone if you can't find urethane. Silicone is not paintable.

Clean up all loose material first. Press in foam rope as a backer if needed, leaving room for at least 1/4" of caulk.


How to wire a ceiling rose that has 7 wires

I found the answer to this, so posting here for anyone else in future:

cable A blue to light fitting N
cable A brown to loop

cable B brown to loop
cable B grey with brown tape to light fitting L
cable B black to light fitting N (along with blue from cable A).


To use a US shower head in India or elsewhere abroad?

Pipe in India most likely conforms to (BSP): ISO-7-1 British Standard Pipe Taper (BSPT)

INDIAN STANDARDS : Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) have so far not developed an Indian Standard for the design of Piping Systems. Hence, ANSI Standards ASME 31.1 and 31.3 are widely used for the design. These standards also accept materials covered in other standards. Unlike American Standards, Indian Standards cover dimensions and material specifications under the same standard number. There are no groupings based on branch of engineering. Some of the most commonly referred Indian Standards by Piping Engineers are :
[truncated, see link; e.g., IS 554 : Dimensions of Pipe Threads]
There are certain other international standards, which are also referred in Piping Industry. These are DIN standards of Germany and JIS standards of Japan. DIN standards are more popular and equivalent. –CODES and STANDARDS, www.svlele.com

IS 554 : 1999
IS0 7-11 : 1994
"This Indian Standard (Fourth Revision) which is identical with IS0 7-l : 1994 [...]" –law.resource.org (ISO-7-1 British Standard Pipe Taper)
Which means you'll need an adapter that gets you from NTP to BSPT
Then again, according to this table (BSP vs NPT), 1/2" and 3/4" pipe both have 14 threads per inch, and the pitch of the threads are only off by five degrees, so I think a copious amount of PTFE tape would make a shower head work just fine. But don't quote me on that; I've never encountered BSP in the field and had to make it work with NPT fittings.

It has been mentioned that, "That model, it super sucks. The flow is extremely low." Might I suggest that you install a (valved) wye fitting and have both shower heads. Use the new one only for doing your hair so as to not prematurely clog the filter.


Toilet on septic system won't flush after heavy rain

Your drain field is saturated.  You need a new drain field.  The drain field gets plugged with lint and fibers.  It is too slow to handle the drainage from your house when the ground is wet.  Talk to a qualified backhoe operator. He should be able to help you.


How to start investigating the source of this leak in the bathroom

The fact that it runs periodically usually means a worn/sticky/slimy flapper valve, but it could also indicate a leak in the tank. The discoloration of the gout may indicate moisture, and the particle board cabinet would suck it up like a sponge.


Before blowing in wall insulation, is it better to remove old rock wool insulation?

I can’t think of any good reason to keep the existing insulation in the wall.

Blowing in insulation in walls that are already partially insulated will not produce a uniform layer of blown in insulation. In fact, there is a good chance the old rock-wool insulation has sagged in the wall cavity and will block the installation of the blown in fiberglass insulation uniformly to the stud space.

The option to remove the wallboard will allow the removal of the original insulation in order to provide a uniform layer of insulation. In 1950 the stud depth is 3 5/8” (rather than the current 5.5” depth now) so you want it to be as good as possible to get the maximum R-value possible with the limited stud depth.

Also, be careful of the old electrical wiring that it’s not disturbed in either option.

However, in either case you’ll want to test the 1950’s wallboard for asbestos.


Thankfully, fixing this is fairly simple
The good news is that pulling an 8AWG copper grounding conductor from the subpanel to the main panel should pose no trouble, as you have plenty of fill to spare in your conduit for that fourth wire.  In particular, Schedule 80 PVC in that size is no issue at 320mm² of usable fill area, which is ample space compared to the mere 211.92mm² of fill your feeder will take up once you add the 8AWG grounding wire to it.
The bad news is that you'll want to pull the existing wires out, pulling a line in at the same time, then use that pull string to pull the new bundle through.  (You should be able to reuse the existing conductors provided they're in decent shape, though.)
Other notes: that 80A breaker can be bumped up
Note that there's no reason to put this feeder on an 80A breaker; 3AWG copper wires with an 8AWG ground can handle 100A when landed on 75°C terminations, which modern distribution equipment will have, as a rule.  So, you can swap that 80A breaker for a 100A breaker. (Square-D doesn't even make an 80A panel, by the way; they have some tiny "spa boxes" rated for 70A or less, but anything larger will have 100A or 125A busses on it.)


Yes, you can use a common 24V 40VA transformer that mounts on a junction box lid.  If you have a handy junction box location already built into your building, You can simply mount it there.  Or you can add one to your building using legal wiring methods.

I am not beneath getting  a 3-prong line cord (often a 3-prong extension cable with the socket lopped off), and stopping by the local electrical supply house with the line cord in hand to acquire a proper strain relief for that cord and a nice stout aluminum junction box while I'm there. Also a 10-32 ground screw.  I'd bring the transformer too for fitment, and that isn't rude since they typically don't sell transformers.   Then, mount and strain relief the extension cord, ground it to the box, and hot and neutral to the transformer 120V side.  The 24V terminals should be on the outside of the transformer.


Can I drill a cast iron enameled shower pan for door installation?

Yes, you can drill and tap the hole for threads. You may have figured that out already.


Is it possible for a bathroom countertop to be held up by angle brackets

Given a 6' wide slab, brackets are the right choice. In my ideal world, there would be at least 2 from the back wall, equally spaced, as well as ledgers on the sides. Be sure the brackets and ledgers are well attached to studs.

Stone/quartz/etc will often have plywood underneath to support the slab. Talk to your vendor about who is providing it, if it's necessary. If it's you, ask what thickness they want. (This-all assumes a built-up nosing.)

Lots of possibilities for brackets, but if you can't find anything locally, google 'fastcap speedbrace'.


Why aren't my radiators heating up after I replaced a rusted through pipe?

According to OP in comment above:

  I waited 24 hours for the gunk to settle, tapped out some of the pipes gently with a small hammer and switched it on. Took about 3 hours to warm the house up from bone cold.

(Answered to remove this Q from list of Qs with no answers.)


While I'm not an expert, typically you can pull up slates, re-level the sand underneath them, and then re-lay them.

It is entirely possible that the slates were put on too-thin a layer of gravel and sand, and that the underlying soil has compressed a bit since they were laid.  This is different from erosion.

It is also possible that they were laid in order to promote drainage and avoid puddles.


Changing hot water supply and keeping cold water supply

Your cold water line connection if up to code is not an issue as to where it comes from. What I mean by 'if up to code' is that it was originally installed up to code.

The short answer is you need not do any other work regarding that cold line unless you really are pitching an itch to do it.

The only thing that I see (really a non-issue) will be that for any future issue a person will need to know the hot water comes from the additions tankless hot water heater for your sink and your shower. Again not really an issue - just a be aware that this is the case.


Can I install junction boxes in a closet, and if so, what kind of box?

As far as I know junction boxes are ok for closets.  Your local jurisdiction may have other ideas.  Please consider consulting them.

Today's circuit panels are full of (expensive) AFCI breakers that will be damaged by flooding and running many wires can get expensive with current copper prices.  Could you instead run a heavier gauge wire to a subpanel located above the water line and nearer to the loads, and branch out from there?

Also using junctions to "split" a circuit to go two directions should be used sparingly.  Most electricians will expect wiring to "daisy chain" from point to point, junctions can make fault tracing much more difficult.  Some jurisdictions require that the wire be unbroken from the panel to the first load.


After looking at the comments, the real problem isn't the knockout, it's a clamp that will work with access only to the inside of the box.

Luckily, this is a solved problem.  There are plastic push-in NM connectors made to install inside the box, such as the Raco Insider:

This will install in a standard 1/2" KO.

This is a very common problem, so connectors that will work with cables fished into boxes are available almost everywhere electrical supplies are sold.

Big box stores are basically self service, I am sure there are exceptions, but I wouldn't expect ANY technical expertise from the staff.  I've even seen egregious code violations in DIY videos on their official Youtube channels.


Can I overtigthen the screws on my pool's skimmer basket

I ended up speaking with a pool leak detection company, and they answered this question for me.

Basically, yes you can over tighten the screws, but not if you're careful. Their suggestion was to always hand-tighten the screws until they are "wrist tight" (as noted in the comments above, formal measurements are not available). The screws should be good and snug, but don't push too hard. The screws and threads are designed to hold up to a bit of pressure so they are not likely to strip easily. Do not use power tools (not that most people have waterproof power screw drivers but still), a torque bar, or other things in an attempt to gain lots of pressure.

It's also worth noting that local pool companies (in South Carolina, US) rarely remember to check to screws on the basket, and it's one of the most common sources of leaks around here. An easy way to save water, and a couple hundred bucks in a leak detection fee, is to check the screws on the skimmer at the start of each season.


how do I build a 7 to 9 inch high water dam?

If you need help with gardening-related tasks, you probably want to ask on Gardening & Landscaping Stack Exchange.

The answer to your question is to not build a dam, but instead prevent this scenario from occurring.  Probably the biggest issue I can think of with a dam is water on the wrong side of it - you've essentially built a mini-pool against your foundation and this will just make the problem worse.

Grading

The ground surface around your house should be sloped away from the foundation. If this is not the case, you can build as large of a dam as you want and water will eventually find its way in.  If you go look at a new development, you will see that all of the lots slope towards each other and in the middle there is low point that serves as a drainage path that will lead towards the street in order to direct rainwater away.

Runoff Management

There are a couple things you can do here.  The first and probably most important is to make sure that your gutters are free of debris and properly collect water from your roof.  When it rains, is there a sheet of water pouring down from your roof? This is a sure sign that your gutters are blocked. Assuming your gutters are not blocked, you need to identify where they discharge water to.  In older homes, the gutter downspouts might be hooked directly to a storm sewer, but in newer areas they will usually discharge water on your property.  You should ensure that they discharge water far enough way from your foundation. If they do not, you can add an extension to satisfy this.  This also relates to grading as I discussed above.

If this alone does not solve the problem you might consider a drainage cannel to direct the water away from your house. This might be as simple as a gravel-filled trench, or a bit more elaborate with  an embedded drain tile (pipe with holes in it), wrapped with landscaping fabric (to keep dirt and debris out) that is in a gravel filled ditch.  A gravel-only ditch might eventually clog up from roots and debris.  Of course you need to ensure that the slope of this ditch is away from your foundation.

A ditch will probably be required if you have either highly compacted soil or soil with a high clay content that doesn't readily absorb water.  If water pools on your lot with light rain, this might be the case.


correcting the Indents on my Fascia boards --- after I chipped and sanded the old paint and then primed and painted

You will need to scuff up the paint in the area(s) that need attention, then use exterior spackle with a broad knife (as the astute salesman pointed out).

Then sand smooth and re-prime and re-paint.


Would hardwood or carpet be better for a humid place?

Carpet will be cheaper to have installed, but the life time is much shorter than hardwood.

Look into strand bamboo. I believe it is much harder than any other hardwood and not as susceptible to humidity. I used it in my house on the most of the main level (about 1,500 square feet) and have been very happy with it.

Because it so hard, it is more difficult to install, so you may pay a little more for installation.

I don't know if you can ever avoid all creaks, but most can be avoided by putting down rosin paper first and nailing into the floor joists as much as possible.

UPDATE 1

I'm talking specifically about strand bamboo. Regular bamboo is much softer and scratches a lot easier.


Those codes do not mean anything meaningful to the problem.
SCE was out this morning - a very helpful and diligent guy. He said the meter information that was relayed to their central station showed no problems. Maybe being more helpful than SCE policy, he looked at the breakers and the bus bars on the "house side". He also went in the house and put a load test on a sub panel and then looked at at a place a very old panel had been that is now just a giant spaghetti junction box. He convinced me that I have some internal problem. In a new experiment I see that pushing down a 2-slice toaster drops the voltage in a nearby outlet from 118 to 116 and activating the other 2-slices drops it to 114. This is all while I am the the "good state" with no visible flickering.
Got to the bottom of it
t turned out to be a soft sort - corroded wires under the dirt in the front yard that went to some long defunct thing. It was on the breaker for a room we hardly ever use and next to it was the breaker that had things behaving intermittently. Eventually became a hard short and got found by the electrician. He thinks the strange behavior at a certain time of day was from the water from the sprinklers filtered down to the wire underground.


Junction box partially behind drywall and partially exposed

You can certainly do it with a junction box (in the wall) an an extension ring (out of the wall.) I don't know if there's anything against using a deep box halfway out of the wall as you suggest or not.
If a sweep fits, an LB will do - or if you don't actually need a pull point there, an offset through the surface of the wall will also do. Just make sure it adds up to less than 360° in bends between pull points. i.e. you are in conduit on both side of the drywall surface, there's no transition. You need a box if it's cable on one part and conduit on the other - if it's all conduit, bring it through the wall, mud and paint the wall around the conduit penetration (or use fireblock foam/caulk if the wall requires, or a fancy fire collar if the LAHJ insists) and keep going.


How do I replicate this drywall texture?

It looks like the material was applied with a wide notched trowel then gone over with a roller. The way all the ridges are lined up, makes it appear that was part of the technique. Then a roller whether it was dampened with water, or lightly set with texture, was run one way to get the ridges to point in one direction, then it was moved over or angled over to get the ridges to go the other way.

It also appears that the texture wall finish was applied thinned out pretty well and applied with a roller. How thick the nap on the roller or how thin to make the texture will all depend on trial and error. But I would start with a 3/8" nap roller and thin the texture down to about cake batter consistency.

This is how I would attempt to reproduce this. Start by getting a practice surface ready, If you bought a sheet of 1/2" drywall for this solely as a practice surface, I think the 15 bucks is money well spent for a ideal practice surface. You can use the actual ceiling to practice on, if it is sealed with primer, so the potential repeated attempt at texturing will wet the surface too much to have the ceiling come down for being saturated over time. If it is not sealed, the paper on the surface will get really weak, and start tearing with repeated troweling.

Apply the texture with a roller and get it on the ceiling or practice surface. Using a notched trowel, comb the surface to remove the texture to the drywall, leaving texture in "lines", then with a water dampened roller go over the surface once over the surface, not going over the same area twice, with the exception of make a small lap over the previous pass. I imagine if the roller get too much texture transfer from the ceiling, that the "lining up" of the ridges will become more and more random, since the texture is possibly being redeposited over the entire surface.


Given the colours (I don't know why the other answerer referred to a red wire, the wire in your picture is clearly brown) I'm going to assume you are somewhere in Europe.

The insulation on the nominally live wire is gone, that means you more likely than not have 230V exposed (if you are in a country that cares about polairty you definately have 230V exposed, if you are in a country that doesn't care about polarity it's 50/50). Touching that is very likely to result in an electric shock, if you are unlucky said shock may be fatal.

There is also earth exposed. With some movement you could end up with a short circuit. Most likely this will blow a fuse/trip a breaker but if you are unlucky it could also start a fire.

I would advise against using insulation tape to repair mains wires except in a dire emergency. It insulates fine but the adhesive can lose stickiness over time. If you do insist on using it make sure you remove the outer sheath, insulate the damaged wires individually and then insulate the bundle.

Best option is to replace the cable, if that is not possible then it may be possible to cut it and insert a suitable joint.


What is the maximum depth below grade for termite activity?

According to this paper from the University of Nebraska, they can go up to 20 feet in the ground:

  Subterranean termites are ground-dwelling social insects living in colonies. The two species found in
  Nebraska have similar habitats. These termites have the ability to adjust the depth of their colony (nest) in soil
  depending on temperature and moisture requirements. The colony may be 18-20 feet deep in the ground.

  http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2159&context=extensionhist (PDF Link)

The paper goes on to say that the species they observed are local to Nebraska, however I think it demonstrates these things can dig deep, probably deeper than you can make a barrier. Other less-reliable sources cite depths up to 40 feet.


What could cause high power usage in HVAC system after lightning strike?

Your excessive power draw can definitely be attributed to your hvac equipment having a faulty electrical component. Like others said, you need to shut the breakers off to the equipment and see if the power draw decreases over time to know for sure. Or you could have a technician check the equipment. The issue may not be your hvac system at all, however the fact that is is not cooling properly means it needs to be looked at by a professional.

Im not sure what type of system you have (condenser, Evaporator and air handler or furnace) but you need to have a technician check and test the compressor windings and motor windings of the condenser fan motor. It would also be wise to check to see if the blower motor for the indoor unit is still functioning properly. He should also check if anything is over amping. I would advise not using the unit until it is checked.


Waterproof front lip of shower pan that is beveled for entry?

If you caulk the hell out of the bottom edge, and construct the wall so it doesn't move relative to the shower base, then you should be fine. A rubber gasket will probably be less effective than caulk, since caulk can be made to fit any shape of crevice.

Do not put grout in the line between tile and base, use caulk instead. Same goes for the corner seams between the walls. Many grout manufacturers also make caulk that matches their grout colors, so the transition will be invisible. Caulk is flexible, so it can handle slight movement without cracking.


How should I run cables through interior wall to garage?

It depends what you mean by "cables". As long as it is a data cord (not power) and the opening is fire sealed, it is fine. What I do is use a cutoff saw (hack saw is fine) to cut a length of PVC pipe. Use a hole saw to cut through the drywall. Then, caulk the PVC pipe to the dry wall. It makes a perfectly clean tunnel through the wall. You can feed data cables through this tunnel. There is no code violation for doing this as long as the cables are data cables and you fill the tunnel afterwards with fire proof sealant.

Note that you cannot have any "wall penetration" between a garage and a bedroom, but it appears from your diagram that the adjacent room is not a bedroom.


without damaging metal, how to attach metal house numbers to metal sheathing

Automotive trim tape.

For example, 3M 38583 (I'm not in any way associated with 3M, but I did just buy a roll of the stuff for the automotive purpose it's intended for.)

Weatherproof, lasts a long time, and if you need to remove them you saw them off with a section of fishing line and then rub the remaining adhesive off (they even make a special tool for THAT job for the automotive application, but I haven't bought one as I doubt the scale of my job calls for it.)


Indoor ant control: Caulk up baseboard and counter/wall junction?

bifenthrin

you'll need a <=1 gal sprayer and mix rate up to ~1 ounce per gallon.  spray the entire place, let it dry.

another one is permethrin, in Martin's Cyonara.

both can be gotten at tractor supply, or amazon, sometimes at depot/lowes.


Are there requirements for periodic inspection of your consumer unit? (UK)

There is not a requirement in owner-occupied single family dwellings to have periodic electrical inspections. There is in some rented homes or houses of multiple occupation (HMO).

Under BS7671 (the IET) Wiring Regulations the electrician is required to recommend an inspection period. I don't know why yours has put 3 years, for dwellings the interval is usually 5 for rented and 10 for owned.

  For rented accommodation, the maximum period recommended between the
  initial inspection (when the installation was first put into service)
  and the first periodic inspection and test is five years.

NICEIC recommendation

  change of occupancy/10 years

Intersafe electrical test providers

  Typical workplaces or environments which require 3 or 1 year Fixed
  Wire Testing include: Spa hotels and leisure centres – 3 years

Intersafe electrical test providers 2

If you have the previous test certificate or can get a copy from the electrician who issued it, there may be an explanation for why a more frequent inspection has been recommended, eg there may have been previous signs of "green goo" in the installation.


Mains tester screwdrivers are useless, dangerous and should be thrown away. They rely on current passing through a neon, resistor and your body and if they are faulty or they get wet they can kill you. They give false positives and negatives.

Check that all wires are done up tightly in the socket and that the terminal screw isn't gripping the plastic insulation on the wire. And check at the kitchen socket it's spurred from too. It's possible the neutral is out, but the live is connected, or vice versa.


What could be causing my garage door to randomly open and close?

First rule of electricial/electronics is cycle power to see if that solves the problem. Unplug it - give it a few minutes and then plug it back in. If the random openings stop, the unit just needed a hard reset.

Next Up - Disconnect the low voltage/control wires from the connector at the opener. If the door still opens randomly then the problem is in the opener itself.

If the random openings stop, hook the low voltage cables back up to the opener.

If the random openings start again, the problem is in the control side of things.

Remove and replace as needed.


How to cut pipe squarely using an angle grinder

What you're describing is just inexperienced workmanship.  You did a guillotine cut, like you would saw through a piece of wood.

A better plan would be to use masking tape wrapped around it to designate the cut point, then cut through each face individually.


Product recommendations for clearing a drain connected to a septic system?

I stay away from chemical solutions all together.

I have had reasonably good luck with using a drain snare to snag most of the hair in my tub drain.  Every few months, I will shoot one down the drain if I see it getting a little slow.  This will normally clear things up without any further intervention.

When that fails, I usually move towards using a hand crank drain auger.  This will allow you to get further down and (usually) past the trap.

If that fails, then there is something more serious going on, and pouring a bunch of caustic chemicals down the drain isn't going to help the situation (especially if you need to eventually open up the pipe to inspect further).


When calculating rebuilding costs for insurance purposes, should foundation replacement be considered?

Your insurance coverage should be sufficient to cover whatever loss you are expecting it to cover. If you carry homeowners insurance in case of fire, then it probably makes sense to ensure that the limits are high enough to replace the foundation and everything on it. If you carry homeowners insurance solely for liability reasons, it doesn't really matter what the property coverage is (you presumably have other ways to pay those rebuilding costs if needed).

When I lived in Houston, I carried flood insurance on my house. It was a 2 story house in a 1000-year flood plain, so I felt comfortable with a lower coverage amount for the flood policy, as I was only intending the flood policy to cover repair / replacement of structures and property on the first floor - if my second story was flooding there would be far bigger issues to worry about than my house! This allowed me to save a bit on the premiums. My regular homeowners insurance, though, provided coverage for a full rebuild and personal property.


How to find where the slugs are coming from?

There's probably a few air bricks behind your kitchen units. Nail bit of fine mesh over them outside.


Will my roof framing support an array of flat solar panels?

2x8’s spanning 14’ can support between 31 psf and 53 psf depending on the species and grade of your 2x8’s.

Your existing flat roof “dead load” (load that does not change) is:

1) roofing between 3 psf and 8 psf depending on the type, number of re-roofs, etc.,

2) roof sheathing is between 1.5 and 2.5 psf,

3) roof joists of 2x8’s is 1.5 psf,

4) attic insulation (if any) is between 2 and 3 psf,

5) ceiling (if any) is between 3 and 4 psf,

6) miscellaneous, including lights, etc. is between 2 and 3 psf

Therefore, the total dead load is between 11.5 and 20.5 psf depending on all the materials on your roof. (Feel free to adjust my estimates depending on your exact materials.)

Generally, we add a “Live Load” (snow load, etc.) to the dead load to get a Total Load. However, you’ve indicated that there is no snow load.

Your 2x8’s spanning 14’ At 24” on center will easily support your solar collectors weighing about 2.5 psf.

So, the 2x8’s will hold them up, but we also worry about holding them down. If you live in a high wind area or seismic area, you’ll need to anchor the collectors to the roof too. Then, we worry about holding the 2x8’s to the bearing walls, then the bearing walls to the footings, etc.

Btw, solar collectors are the perfect shape to fly away...be careful.


There are commercial adapters available to allow plugging a 30A RV into a 50A receptacle.  It shouldn't matter which hot leg you get, as long as you have the neutral and ground correct.  Both legs of the 50A are rated for 50A each, so a 30A max draw is well within capacity.


The manufacturer's website lists several possibilities; from their FAQ for that range of fans:

Where do I get power from for the In-Line Duct Fan?
Here you have a number of options.
The easiest way to power your In-Line Duct Fan for automatic ON/OFF operation with both your furnace and air conditioner is to use the Suncourt DuctStat. Please view the DuctStat section of these FAQ's.
You may power the In-Line Duct Fan via a standard wall switch for manual ON/OFF operation. Running an In-Line Duct Fan continuously will not appreciably affect the life of the fan.
The next best is to connect to the wiring of your furnace. You must connect to the wire that provides power to your furnace blower. Consult the furnace wiring diagram, usually located on the inside of the panel covering the main furnace blower. Again make sure that all wiring conforms to all applicable standards and codes.
Also check that your furnace blower motor has a 110-120 Volt AC motor. Some larger furnaces have 220-240 Volt AC motors. Some of the newest high-end furnaces have DC motors. Do not connect the In-Line Duct Fan to either the 220-240 Volt AC or the DC type.


Using drywall screws for electrical boxes?

I used drywall screws in the past for electrical boxes and stopped using them when I found that they snap off too easy when using a powered driver to insert the screws. They can also snap if there is any reason that the electrical box can flex. This is all due to the hard tempered nature of drywall screws.

Now I use #8 or #10 pan head stainless steel screws. If possible, when using the #10 size, I will even drill a pilot hole for the screw.


That's known as a "knockdown" texture, as it's sprayed on the wall and later "knocked down" with a wide taping knife.

Exactly how it's done is beyond the scope of this answer, but here are some resources.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/drywall/ceiling-texture/how-to-apply-knock-down-texture/view-all
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-knockdown-texture-drywall-surface-21287.html


Foundation inside and outside of house cracking

This isn't what you want to hear, but you may already know the answer: it's time to call a pro. Issues with concrete foundations aren't for even the most hardcore DIY-ers.


How to remove an external dryer vent cover when it's covered by stucco?

The vanes in a vent like that are usually just plastic with small pegs that project out from each of the top left and right corners. These pegs fit into holes in the vertical side rail of the vent frame so that the vanes can hinge out when there is positive air pressure coming out the pipe. They then swing back into the closed position under the force of gravity.

These vanes are removable by simply gently flexing the vane in the center and allowing the peg on one end to come out of its swing hinge hole.

There is a very good possibility that you can find a replacement vent where the vanes are the same size. You could snap the vanes out of the new unit and insert them into the existing frame. Making this replacement would eliminate a lot of work trying to rip out the old vent and installing a new one.


How to remove broken freeze plug adapter in a spa pump

Drill a hole in it, then use a standard screw extractor. But a new plug and re-install. FYI, its not a freeze plug. It is used to let trapped air out of the pump before priming on initial fill/refill and startup.


Should I Ground a Generator Powering an UPS?

What they're referring to here is a ground rod

Generally speaking, AC mains electricity in the US needs to be earthed (grounded), with the neutral and protective earth (ground) wires bonded to each other and to a grounding electrode system at the main service entrance, to keep the mains from rattling off to some high voltage relative to other grounded things (such as pipes and metalwork, or you and me) and putting excessive stresses on insulation as a result.

However, if you are simply setting a generator out and firing it up to plug a few things in out in the boonies, driving 8' of ground rod whenever and wherever you want to use your generator is considered impractical, so the NEC offers us an "out" in the form of 250.34(A):

  (A) Portable Generators. The frame of a portable generator
  shall not be required to be connected to a grounding electrode
  as defined in 250.52 for a system supplied by the generator
  under the following conditions:

  (1) The generator supplies only equipment mounted on the
  generator, cord-and-plug-connected equipment through
  receptacles mounted on the generator, or both, and

  (2) The normally non–current-carrying metal parts of equipment and the equipment grounding conductor terminals
  of the receptacles are connected to the generator frame.

Given that the UPS is cord-and-plug connected to the generator, and you in turn have things plugged into the UPS, I would consider the UPS no different than a portable power tap (power strip) for the purposes of this section, and the equipment plugged into it supplied indirectly (via the UPS) from receptacles mounted on the generator.  (The reason why the section is written as it is is to distinguish this case from a case where the generator is supplying building wiring via an inlet.)

However, I would run a ground wire back to the intersystem bonding point anyway (which moots this debate)

The problem with the logic above starts when you add the cable modem to the picture.  Cable modems invariably are grounded; however, this grounding is not a connection to mains ground, but to the cable plant ground.  Normally, the ground block at the CATV entry point is connected via a wire to the grounding electrode conductor or intersystem bonding termination block, and this means that the two grounds are really one and the same.

However, with your generator isolated from the building wiring, electricity that gets onto the cable TV system from your generator can't get back to the generator to trip a breaker (or even a GFCI, under extreme conditions), and this is a serious problem due to the shock hazard it poses.  So, I would run a wire (6AWG bare copper will do) from the grounding terminal on the generator to the intersystem bonding termination block on your house, provided you have one that is.  If you don't, you can run it back to the grounding electrode conductor instead and use a lay-in tap lug to attach is bonding wire to the grounding electrode conductor.  This avoids violating the spirit of NEC 820.100(D)/830.100(D), as this bond wire provides a fault path back to the generator for faults from the generator onto the CATV plant.


Can I use two 2x4's to replace 4x4 posts in a loft bed?

2 2x4s are not square, if that matters (3 x 3.5). They will be plenty strong as assembled posts.

Try a traditional lumber yard, they will have untreated pine.  Cedar may also be an option.

Your structure would be better supported if you shortened 1 of the 2 paired 2x4s at each corner and made a jack-king stud arrangement like a door frame and header.  The main tenant of construction is to bear the weight with structural components and only use fasteners to keep the structure in place, not to bear the load (in shear).

You are, in effect, making a small deck.  You should attach the rear 2x8 2x6 to each wall stud.  A 4" #10 decking screw would not be too small .

The front and rear members are, in effect, beams and should be 2x8s.  The joists running perpendicular to the beam should be 2x6 2x4s hung with joist brackets.


What pages should be included in a complete set of plans for residential construction?

You'll need more detailing

No longer can you consider structure, sheathing, cladding, and finish as the only elements of an exterior wall.  You'll need to have several more wall detail drawings:

First and foremost, you'll need to detail the wall cross-section or stackup.  This shows how the wall is insulated, where the barrier layers are put, and the locations of any air gaps needed (say to back ventilate the cladding).
Second, you'll need to detail the door and window openings.  The flashing and insulation details here are critically important to prevent leakage into the house, whether it be rain, air, or heat/cold.
Third, you'll want to detail the roof to wall and wall to foundation joints.  The roof to wall joint in particular is another critical envelope detail for a high performance envelope -- it's very easy to screw something up here and get an air leak or uninsulated spot.
Finally, you'll need either a roof stackup detail for an unventilated roof/conditioned attic, or a ceiling stackup detail for a ventilated attic/roof.  This ensures that air barrier plane continuity is maintained throughout the envelope -- a leaky ceiling on the top floor of the house is a great way to ruin all your attic vent work.

You'll also want foundation wall cross-section detailing to show the insulation and waterproofing details on the foundation walls in addition to detailing the footing and foundation slab cross sections.  Last but not least, you'll want dedicated floorplans for plumbing and mechanical routing, especially as those systems become more complicated as well.


I have just reset furnace due to a trouble code, what should I monitor or re-do over the next few days?

There are a lot of scenarios that can cause a pressure switch to report an error. As an example, one that I have seen that is actually "self-healing", I have seen really cold days where there are ice crystals in the air and as the air is pulled into the air intake it can create an 'ice dam' and thus restrict the air flow enough that the pressure switch does not close. This can melt if the outside temp gets warm enough and it can also be dislodged simply by shaking the intake pipe. I have also seen birds nests and various debris block the air flow. One time I am pretty sure that the wind was strong enough and blowing in just the right direction that it was preventing the switch form staying closed. (I made this assumption because of the homeowners description of his trying to fix it and their location at the mouth of a canyon and the strong winds we had had.
You mentioned power cycling the unit. That would reset the error and allow for it to try to come on again. If it is running again it should be good the switch is open and will not run unless all is well.

As far as preventative maintenance, you have done most of what can be. I have seen a pressure switch that had water in it because one of the hoses was kinked. But there is not much else that can be done.


How to find the correct replacement glass dome for a light fixture?

See if the globe is a standard/common design.

There are a few "standard" designs for how globes/domes/shades attach to the lamp fixture.  Many manufacturers intentionally build to the standard, and there is a huge aftermarket of various styles of globe, specifically for replacement or "style upgrade" in any compatible fixture.  A lighting distributor or real hardware store will have these.  Big-box chain stores maybe not so much.

Contact manufacturer

Part number is probably on a sticker on the fixture itself, usually around where the light bulbs are or on the back. You may have to take the fixture down to be able to see this (and if you do, be sure to turn the power off).

Just a warning: It's possible they don't sell the individual part, don't make it anymore, or want to charge more for the part and/or shipping than other options (below).

Buy an identical fixture

Find the same fixture somewhere, and use the parts from it you need

Just replace the fixture with something better

If you can't find a matching fixture, just replace it with something else.

You can also just use this as an excuse to replace it with something you like better anyway.


Trying to wire my inverter output into my RV panel

No.  You can't wigger-jigger it like that.  I've been saying this a lot today, but if one thing is broken and wrong, it's best to fix that first - the other problem may take care of itself if you do.

You need a proper interlock so that it is physically impossible for any of the prongs on any plugs to get "lit up".

If your breaker panel lends itself to interlocks

You're on the right track with breakers where only one is on at once, but you must have physical interlock to make "both on at once" impossible.

Some models of breaker panel have very simple, inexpensive options for interlocks.  Such as Square D "QO" and Siemens/Murray.  (Keep in mind you must not mix-and-match breakers and panels; use only breakers listed or classified for that panel).

If this is not feasible, there's another way.

Use a plug/socket as an "interlock"

Presumably your RV has either an inlet, or a short cord-and-plug, which you plug your extension cord into in order to reach shore power.

OK, so you build a virtual "extension cord" from your inverter to that inlet/plug.  On shore power, you plug the RV into shore power.  On generator, you plug the RV into the inverter instead.  That's pretty simple, isn't it?

The trick is, you build this "extension cord" right into the RV, using in-wall wiring methods.  One end is a plug-and-cord going into the inverter, obviously.  The other end depends.

If the RV has an inlet, then you have a cord-and-socket which is just long enough to plug into the inlet (and too short to worry about it dragging on the ground).
If the RV has a short cord, then you have an outlet within reach of it.

Either one simply goes straight to the inverter.

Now the procedure is simple: whenever you unhook from shore power, you connect that cord so you are looping over to the inverter.

Use 240V, 4-wire connections

I hear you saying you're using a 3-prong connector with a ground. That doesn't make any sense unless the RV is very small and uses a TT30 connector.  I expect your RV is 120/240V split, and needs 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground.  I suspect you have inadvertently connected neutral or ground to a hot wire, and that's why it is lit up.


Can PVC conduit be run through garage/house firewall?

That should be fine as long as it's Schedule 80 pipe (thanks, Ed Beal). A garage "firewall" isn't usually considered a fire-rated situation like you'd find in a multi-family dwelling. It's just a minor safety measure. Therefore, per my understanding, you wouldn't need a fire-rated penetration. You'd just need to seal it as you describe. Ask your local inspection office (even if you're not getting inspected) to be sure what they'd ask for.
Consider slipping a trim ring onto the pipe to cover the ugly red caulk if your garage is finished.


You do not want to run water over your coils, this will cause any hard water deposits to build up quickly and even if the aluminum fins are coated to protect from salt air this layer will be destroyed in a short time by flowing water over the coils. I agree with @jimmy fix-it , a separate system would be better. I have several rolls of black drip irrigation tube on the roof of my arena , any roof would work, we had to shut it off for a few days already because when the water temps get into the 80’s it’s not refreshing at. Don’t cut the service life of your expensive condenser & compressor unit short.


Can I use construction adhesive for backsplash tiles

I personally wouldn't cover up the existing tiles as the new ones will look twice as thick at the edges, and you'll have to match the old tiles exactly. It shouldn't be that hard to remove the old tiles. I would try using a metal putty knife and hammer. The putty knife should get right behind the tile and not do any real damage to the drywall behind. Then just do any surface repair with drywall compound. Then I would use a mastic or thinset depending on what type of tile you choose. I wouldn't use construction adhesive just because it literally will lock those tiles in place.


Judging by the photo the toilet is bolted to the floor with two bolts, one on each side of the toilet. That is what holds the toilet in place not some caulk or material. If the floor is just slightly off, ( not flat ) then toilet wedges will help to keep it from rocking.

Photo source from the Lowe's link. You can find them online or at other home improvement stores.

The wedges ( one or two ) are installed on one side, rock the toilet to see how it rocking then place the wedges in the void when the toilet is rocked all the way forward. I like to put them on the side less visible. Once you determine where they need to go loosen the bolts just slightly and snug the wedges in place and then tighten down the bolts so that the wedges are pinch in place. ( you can put a dab of caulk on them before you slip them in.)

Once the the bolts are tightened down you trim off the part of the wedge that sticking out and caulk around the base of the toilet.

If the unevenness of the  floor is significant then you need to remove the toilet and take steps to level the floor. I do not know what the floor is made of so i can advise on that.


Can I extend a cable to add another outlet?

It's easy and legal to retrofit a ground wire.

Since you have the walls off, get yourself some ground wire and run it back to the panel this circuit is served out of.   done.

Get  more knowledge, though

Take a few evenings to learn this craft properly.  Get a book that starts you at the beginning and works you through it.  That's one virtue of big-box home improvement stores, they have books.  So do libraries.  Find a book that speaks to you and read it recreationally. Learn more than you think you need to know.


How can I tell hot from neutral on the power cord of an evaporative cooler?

If you don’t have a meter trace the wires back at the fan if they do not connect to the case it won’t matter many (most) motors the wiring goes directly to the windings and only the case is grounded with the green wire.
So if no connections other than to the windings a single phase ac motor won’t matter, if it happened to be DC the fan would spin backwards if not properly connected but that should not hurt the motor, power down and switch them if the fan spins the wrong way.


Is it normal to miter the non-pivoting edge of a door?

It shouldn't be necessary.  Some times it might be useful:

Your hinge plates aren't flush to the surface of the door or the frame.
You have a build-up of paint on the door or frame causing the door to rub or stick.
Some wood splinters easily if it's cut at a right-angle. Rounding the corners a little can help this.


Use a soil probe. Commonly used item for plumbers and landscapers:


Any fabrics that block visible light without blocking IR/Bluetooth?

Unless you get metal lined material or mirrored glass doors the radio won't have an issue. And to be honest even if you did it would probably still work fine by going through the wood or whatever the sides of the shelves are made of unless they are solid metal.

Any solid fabric is going to block the IR. You could potentially go with a fairly lose weave fabric so that the light can get through the holes. The remote will probably still work but you will also still be able to see the blinking lights.
If the amp is right at the front of the shelf you could potentially put a small hole in the curtain in line with the IR receiver in the amp to allow the remote to get through. But if there is any separation between the two you end up either needing a big hole or the remote only works from one direction.

A dark tinted glass or plastic may be your best option. Some will block IR, some won't. The problem is being able to test the material without having to first buy some doors made out of it.
You could do a test, get some of the stick on limo tint plastic, it's fairly cheap, and see if your IR remote works through that with sufficient range. If so then get some plain glass doors and add the tint. That wouldn't completely block the blinking lights but would make them a lot dimmer.

The other option is the more direct approach, put something over the blinking lights. You could use something solid like a sheet of black plastic in front of everything with a cutout where the IR receiver is.  Or you could use a dark colored tape and put it only over the lights.
Visually not always the nicest approach but once everything in there is dark then you could put some fairly transparent glass doors over the front and it wouldn't be visible.


Why is a smoke alarm chirping at specific times of the day?

I have noticed this same phenomenon before, and the only explanation I can think of is that early morning hours are typically the coldest hours of the day in a house.
Smoke alarms operate with a battery (sometimes only battery, sometimes the battery acts as a backup for a hardwired power source). The battery voltage is monitored, and when the voltage drops below a threshold (indicating the battery is nearly dead), the alarm starts the low battery chirp to make you put a new battery in. Battery voltage is affected by temperature, so when the temperature drops a bit, and the battery is right at the threshold between OK and low, this temperature drop might cause the voltage to drop enough to trigger the chirp. Once the battery warms up a bit, the chirp might stop.
After a few days or weeks of this, you will probably eventually get a constant chirp, and then the chirp will stop because the battery is dead (at least if the battery is the only power source).


Repainting buildings' exterior, but with a different color

It's an issue of coverage. Using the same color means you don't have to be quite as picky/concerned about even coverage/multiple coats.

That said, if you're hiring out, a professional painter should be fine handling a repaint no matter the underlying color.


What replacement florescent lamps can I use?

Narva Specs
LT 15W/530-030, 15W, Warm White 530 color rating, 438mm long, G13 Socket, 26mm dia.

Satco Specs
F15T8-530, 15W, Warm White 3000 Kelvin, 451.61mm MOL, G13 Socket, T8 1"/25.4mm dia.

So, we have a lamp with the following specifications:

T8 15 Watt 1"/25.4mm dia tube with ANSI G13 medium BiPin socket having a 3000 kelvin Warm White color rating and a CRI (Color Rendering Index) of 50 that is nominally 18"/455mm long.

So, basically look for the following tubes and check the length. Narva measures from end cap to end cap while Satco uses Maximum Overall Length which includes the pins in the length.

Common designation
F15T8-530
F15T8-WW

Philips
F15T8/WW/ALTO

OSRAM Sylvania
F15T8/WW


Is there a remote switch I can use to replace a switch located in a wall being removed?

That's possible, but I doubt that something like this would be up to any electrical code unless those are 3 way switches that have their counterparts somewhere else as they make wireless 3 way switches

Anyway, something like this seems like a bad idea. If you are remodeling anyway , then either fish the wires or open up the walls and patch them later. Nothing beats hardwired connection.


Assuming the humming sound is your well pump (were you able to hear it when it was working?) then it either has something stuck inside or it has simply seized up.

If you cannot normally hear the well pump, and the humming sound comes from the breaker itself, that means it's definitely seized and is drawing a LOT of power until the breaker trips. Stop doing that.

Either way, time for a new pump.

Changing a well pump is one of those things where if you have to ask how, you need to call someone. Electricity and water don't get along very much and mistakes can be costly. Like ruining the new pump and having to buy a third one, causing the well sides to collapse and therefore needing to re-dig the hole, or someone getting electrocuted and dying.

Any plumber in your area will know exactly what you need, and will likely be able to fix it the same day.


Adding hinges to steel box tube that is going to be powder coated - advice

Why not pre-drill the holes, put the screw in with tape before powdercoat. Then after complete, remove the screw and hopefully it won't crack around the tape. Or, get a removable pin hinge and weld one side to the frame and cover the pin holes. Or, weld a nut inside and cover to powdercoat. Or, use an anchor system, predrill the holes slightly over size. and leave the bottom open so you can relace the hinge, if need be, in the future.


Load Bearing wall running parallel to floor joists above?

Picture 2 clearly shows the relation of front door to “wall I want to remove”.  The wall you want to remove is a bearing wall ... supporting the roof as shown in last Picture #7, from the exterior.

That one small opening you’ve cut in the ceiling in Pictures #1 and #3 shows something spanning the opposite direction you’re indicating the joists run. You’d better check that again, as I suspect you’re wrong on the direction the second floor joists span too.

Also, when you start removing walls (bearing or otherwise) you’d better make sure you’re not removing a shear wall.  Just because it doesn’t have plywood on it, doesn’t mean it’s not a shear wall. Gypsum board is rated as shear panels too and this is a main wall, so I suspect this is a shear wall...depending on what seismic zone you live in.

I like your opening comment, “...before hiring a structural engineer/ architect...”. Now make sure you do it...

By the way, I’d recommend a STRUCTURAL engineer, not a CIVIL engineer...or an architect with a structural background.


How to remove/prevent mold from forming in bathroom

First thing you want to do is verify that the fan is working. If there is an attic, you need to get up there and check the venting to the outside. If no attic, then remove the fan so you can stick your head up there and see what's going on with the vents. Poor ventilation is a major cause of mold and mildew. All my bathroom vents have 60 minute timer switches.

Next, mix 1 part bleach and two parts water in a spray bottle and spray down the whole bathroom. I don't usually use bleach, I use vinegar because it soaks into porous materials and bleach doesn't. In this case I'd use the bleach: spray, scrub, wipe down, spray, scrub, wipe down. Once everything is clean, wipe the floor down with vinegar. It will soak into the grout and prevent the return of mold.
Keep in mind that the walls are probably not made of that plastic. The plastic is a wall covering and there could be mold behind it. If any of the plastic is loose, pull it out and check for mold behind it.

Last but not least, think about replacing all the caulk in the bathroom. Good luck.


Do I need to replace my hot water tank's pressure release valve?

I would replace the P-T valve regardless, as it sounds questionable. They're about $10-15, plus usually a pipe directing it to the floor or even a nearby floor drain (which you can probably re-use).

It's a safety device that prevents your tank from over-pressurizing (which in very extreme cases can actually cause an incredibly powerful explosion -- check youtube for some entertaining mythbusters clips). You also don't want it to trip accidentally, as it will pour a lot of very hot water out and will not stop until the P-T valve shuts itself off automatically (unlikely if it's broken), or someone shuts off an upstream valve. If your floor drain is clogged, or gets overwhelmed, you have a flooded basement/house.


Light to turn on for every second switching

Quick answer - no. At least none that I am aware of. You would need a logic loop that would keep track of the number of attempts.

Closest inexpensive method would be to purchase a three way lamp switch which would be off- on lamp1 - on lamp1 and lamp2-off.

Other than that good luck.


Will gently hammering thumbtacks into my wall help them stay better?

The thumb tacks will hold best if they go straight in to the wall without wiggling. If they move back and forth as they're going in, they'll create a larger hole from which they could more easily be pulled. If you can push the tacks all the way in without side to side movement without using a hammer, then there's no advantage to using one. If the hammer allows you to push them in more easily, push them in straighter, or if you can't push them in all the way without a hammer, then the hammer would be better.


Hinges have come loose from particle-board cupboard

I'd go with an epoxy filler rather than a cellulose based product. You've already got chipboard, and you need all the additional strength you can get. Drill the old holes out to a size larger than the screws, including thread. Fill the holes with a 2 part epoxy and let dry. Level the surface as needed, then drill pilot holes for the screws into the epoxy. Screw the hinges back on.


How do I connect my washing machine's waste pipe to a small connector?

That looks like a connector used to lengthen the waste pipe. It is designed to accept the common waste pipe sizes and most waste pipes have a flexible end - visible on the waste pipe on the back of the machine.
Once you have checked that that pipe goes into a suitable drain (with U bend) and it is not too long (6 feet is a usual max, but do read the machine instructions), and that extension is not blocked then it should work fine.
Based on the comment:
if you want the security of adding hose clamps, then do not make them too tight. I would make sure to push the pipe fully deep over the barbs or ridges - you can see the bulge caused by the ridges on the other side already.


Your Option 2 is still not going to be a really great solution. If you are going to lay the new rafters on top of the existing rafters and existing roof sheathing you will need to taper the upper rafters as shown below. This way there can be a smooth transition of the roofing materials from the existing roof down onto the new extension rafters.

Ideally the solution would have the full width of the new rafters up above the double top plate of the original wall but full width out somewhere along the old rafter tails is going to be workable as well. Overall this will be way better than the hack job done for the original build.