Oh, dear.  Who did that?

First off, the last person who worked in this box left you a mess to straighten out.  You're going to need some 12AWG THHN for pigtailing and a couple of wire nuts to fix this.

Turn the power off to this abomination at the electrical panel.
Use a pair of wire cutters to cut off the splice between the two hot (black) wires and strip the wires back enough for a good junction.
Strip both ends of the pigtail -- one black and one white is best here.
Put one pigtail with the two black wires and wire-nut them together, leaving the other end of this hot pigtail free.
Undo the tape on the white wires and free them up (this may require cutting off the existing junction if it's soldered together)
Put the other pigtail with the two white wires and wire-nut those together.
Wire the black pigtail to the AC Power L terminal, the white pigtail to the AC Power N terminal, and the red wire to the Load L terminal on your switch.
Button things back up and turn the power back on

P.S. this switch doesn't need to be grounded as it has a fixed, nonmetallic faceplate.  See NEC 404.9(B) Exception 2 for details.


Foundation dimple mat with fabric or without?

Neither your Option #1 nor your Option #2 are ideal.
Note: Mastic on the wall is used to keep moisture OUT of the wall, not the HDPE membrane.
Note: The HDPE membrane is used to provide an air gap at the wall so moisture can drain DOWN the wall. It eliminates hydrostatic pressure so moisture is not forced in through the wall causing a leak.
Your Option #1: Without a filter fabric the system will clog in a short amount of time. (Btw, you didn’t mention having a mastic waterproofing applied first, but I assume you understand it’s required.)
Your Option #2: Installing the HDPE sheet with the dimples away from the wall allows the membrane against the wall and defeats the purpose of the dimples. (With filter fabric applied to the dimple side of HDPE sheet, it will flex to infill the dimples and moisture will create the hydrostatic pressure it’s designed to eliminate.)
Recommended Option: Install the mastic waterproofing on the wall, then install the HDPE sheeting with dimples toward the wall to create an air gap that allows moisture to drain down the wall to the perf pipe, then install the filter fabric to keep soil particles out of the system and extend the longevity, then CAREFULLY backfill with drainrock. (We use a 1” fiberglass board so rocks can’t accidentally puncture the fabric and membrane.)
Likewise we wrap the perf pipe with filter fabric to insure the moisture that drains down the wall reaches the perf pipe and soil does not plug the perf pipe.


How can I effectively replace sections of 7/8" plaster with drywall?

Shim out the framing to get the drywall flush. I've often used 5/8" drywall with no shims, depending on the plaster thickness and patch configuration, but otherwise shim it.

1/8" hardboard is cheap and easy to work with. Or rip some scrap lumber to size. Staple it in place and be happy.

Update: After seeing your photo, I suggest re-cutting your edges with a circular saw and abrasive blade set to depth. You really want a nicer shape to work with. Snap or trace straight lines, level and down the center of studs. Use ear, eye, and respiratory protection.


Floor heating is not as warm as I was expected

Floor heating systems are very slow and normally meant to run 24/7 except for long-term absence (> 3 days), if the building hull is insulated to some extent or if it is a huge building with high volume-to-surface ratio.

Do the neighbours have the same problem? Which floor is it?
How many outside walls does this flat have? What is below the floor, what is above the ceiling?
Any valves besides thermostats in the flat?

The warm pads could be caused by domestic hot water (circulation) lines.

Reasons for underperforming:

In new buildings, much energy is needed to dry the walls, floors and ceilings.
In older systems, clogging could be the problem since the tube material (plastic) allowed for oxygen and other gases to diffuse into the system increasing corrosion at the metal parts. Also bypass valves can be blocked (not closing ⟶ more or less heating water is bypassing the room) by tiny rust parts.
There could be valves for each room (in this case for each apartment), near the heating system or somewhere hidden, which are meant to adjust the throughput which might be different e.g. due to unequal tube/hose loop lengths. These valves are different from thermostat valves and could be de-adjusted.
Incorrect settings or design of the heating system, or not enough maintenance, especially with heat pumps. Heating water temperature too low, pump power too low, incorrect location for outside temperature sensor (on sunny south side instead of north), restrictions by timers etc.


You are correct.  12" is the most common toilet setback in the US.  I've seen a few 10"s and seen listings for 14" but both are not common.


User is right saying you should cut the rough shape with a band saw.  If you don't have one, you can use a jig saw but use the most rigid blade that will follow the form.  The next step will be to use a table mounted rotary sander/ drum sander to work the piece to the scribed line. It will be next to impossible to make a well shaped piece without this step.  Check out a few episodes of "New Yankee Workshop" online (PBS) to see the techniques.  Keeping a full length of grain top to bottom is extremely important,(as mentioned) otherwise the piece will split in time. Good luck with your project.


how to fix swamp cooler whose fan won't turn on

OK first thing I did was remove the motor and try it in a different unit.  It worked OK.  So the motor's not the culprit.  Another option would be to use a volt meter on the plug where it plugs in (turn the fan switch on first, check for A/C between basically all pins) see if it's passing current up there or not.  If yes, motor or connection to motor would be suspect.

Next thing was to test if the electric circuit breaker was working (either using a volt meter, or by swapping it with another one).  It was.

Next would have been to test the connections at the thermostat to see if they were "live" and if the thermostat, turned on, was sending "live" out up to the swamp cooler on the low or high wire.

But didn't have to, found my actual problem was that I was turning the fan to "low" but not adjusting the thermostat, which was still set to "very hot" so once I switched that, it all worked.  Go figure.


How detailed is the information the electric company gets from the new smart meters?

They cannot tell the difference especially with some of the new lights using switching power supplies. I don't think 1200w would even register. Most of the lamps like the new LEC draw 600-700 watts for the 1000w equivelent to 1000w mh lights and combinations of MH and HPS lights are used. Grow operations use many of these lights some spaced as close as 4 feet (we just set some green houses for veggies) but got some really good info from a pro canibus grower. So in short your power ussage is small and not really a concern I would worry about.


How can I repair a damaged seam on leather sofa

Follow these steps:

Use the thread that comes from hole to tie the thread that goes to bottom left corner as per picture.
Use the left back portion of thread to tighten with knot before and after the newly tied one.


What can I do if I need another gang in a junction box but there isn't space in the wall?

If there are studs at either end of a two gang switch box, that means they are approximately 4 inches apart.  A three gang requires 6 inches.

A switch box is usually about 3.5 inches high; with thickness that means turned sideways, it will fit in a dual ganged space.  So you have room for 20 switches if you want:

(from here)


Can granite countertops rest on plastic corner braces?

I would suggest going over the tops of all the base cabinets with grinder of sander to remove any high spots.


Regarding your question on tools to remove the track, this article (Natural Handyman - How To Repair and Adjust Pocket Doors) says:

  Many pocket doors can be adjusted with
  special tools from around the top of
  the pocket frame with the door in a
  partially closed position. These tools
  are often specially angled wrenches
  designed to fit into that little gap.
  These tools are part of the assembly
  kit supplied with the pocket door, but
  are rarely given to homeowners by the
  builders. Without these proprietary
  tools, you have to improvise with or
  modify standard tools.

If you can't get to the warped part of the track with any tool that you have (or can find), then you will need to cut a hole in the wall for access.

This article (Ask the Builder - Fixing a Pocket Door) has a great description of how to get access to the track.  The article talks about replacing the track but it also gives a warning that if the new track is not the exact same dimensions then the little project will become much bigger.  So you will have to make a decision to cut the wall to get access to the screws to replace the track or just to get to the warped section of the track.

A quote from the article:

  Remove the door from the pocket and
  take it off the track. Use a
  flashlight and peer up into the pocket
  cavity. There is a good chance you
  will see the screws that fasten the
  track to the frame. It is now time to
  cut an access hole on one side of the
  pocket wall. This hole will allow you
  to get your hand or arm into the
  pocket so that you can loosen and
  remove the screws and subsequently the
  track.


Why don't whole house fans vent to the outside?

There are three reasons why whole house fans generally vent into attics. First, whole house fans are designed to pull air from the highest point in the living space of a house, which is generally where the warmest air collects. This removed air is replaced by cool air entering windows in the first floor, flushing the warm air out of the house. The highest point is generally the ceiling of the top floor, so the obvious route for the air is at least into the attic. However, whole house fans are designed to handle large amounts of air, so it's better to vent the fan into the attic rather than directly out an enormous vent in the roof or gables.

Second, the attic is often the low-rent district of the house, which makes it a good location for the fan mechanism itself.

The third reason was raised in another answer: cooling the attic will reduce the heat load on the main house. However, a properly insulated house (at least in non-tropical climes) will have enough insulation between the top floor ceiling and the attic itself that it won't matter much what the attic temperature is; the heat won't have much of an effect on the floors below. Still, there is some benefit to having a cooler attic.

Add all this together, and you find the majority of whole-house fans will vent into the attic, with the attic in turn vented to the outside by any of a wide variety of (generally passive) methods.


Light contact tab melted into plastic housing

You don't solder something onto the center contact. Multiple reasons, one being it's already damaged form too much heat, another being the fact that a lamp socket should be UL rated, and that goes out the window when you modify it.

You buy a new lamp socket (at your local hardware store, or lacking one, online) and replace the whole socket. This will require some minor disassembly of the lamp, and you should carefully examine the cord to see if you should be replacing that as well due to old-age issues when replacing the socket.


Is long waste pipe OK for food waste disposer?

With 1/4" per foot (a normal drain line) you should be fine. If the pipe is totally horizontal it may not work well over time as oils , grease soap scum and just normal organic matter will cause backups. 10' with the drop from the disposal may not be a problem even if close to horizontal. Make sure to run water for a little while after the disposal is clear to flush the material down the drain. If greasy stuff use Hot water and you will probably be fine.


How to protect aluminum fence posts from weed trimmer?

Get a piece of approprietly sized PVC pipe or corragated plastic drain pipe.For a 4 inch post use pipe with at least a 4 inch inside diameter Cut it into 6-9 inchs long pieces. Slice the pieces so you have 1/2 of a piece of pipe. Bury the pipe about 3-6 inches into the ground  so it covers the base of the post. Fill the space between the pipe and the post with crushed stone.


How to mount a 60 amp 2 pole 240 volt non-fused switch

Those switches are designed for surface mount, the operator or handle needs to be open. In the US that Romex will need to be covered below 8’ not just the kiln but the existing wire to the light switch.
Code allows for 1/2” sheetrock or plywood to protect the cables in the walls.
I would use plywood to mount the switch especially if you will be regularly cycling the switch.

The knockout in the back of the box can be used but you will want at least a 3/4” clamp I usually use 1” clamps with #6 4 wire cables because 3/4” is really tight and some brands do not fit 3/4”.  The clamp secures the wires and protects the insulation from the sharp edges of the knockout hole.


Can (and should) I replace the hose connecting a cold water expansion vessel to the cold water supply myself?

I'd try to eliminate the flexible hose if at all possible. You can get a threaded piece of copper pipe and solder it into your plumbing system if you have copper plumbing.

In a well designed system, all of the hoses, valves, etc should exceed the threshold for the TPR valve on the hot water heater. So maybe the hose you had in there wasn't rated for enough pressure, or your TPR valve isn't functioning (very dangerous, you should test it).

For the tank itself, don't worry about water coming out of it. It will work just fine without water in it (in fact, it will likely work better since you've increased the volume of air absorbing pressure fluctuations). To pressurize it, you have to remove all water pressure first (shutoff the water supply and open a faucet) and then pressurize it with a pump up to your water pressure PSI level. As long as the tank holds pressure with the water turned off, the bladder is still good, and you can reuse the same tank.

If you're worried about dirt in the water side of the tank, fill and drain it a few times to see if you can clean it out. Chunks of rubber will likely get stuck in an aerator or shower head which would need to be cleaned out, so better to do this now.

In terms of mounting, they can be mounted any direction. If mounted vertically on a fixed pipe (doesn't matter which end is up) then you don't even need support brackets.


How can I prevent water pooling on a windowsill from getting behind wall tiles in a shower?

I would never use tile tor the window sill. The tile itself is waterproof, but the grout seams will always crack, the thinset is permeable, and the water will find a way to get behind the wall. Get a piece of stone custom fit, make sure it does not puddle water near the wall, and then you only have to worry about the edges which can be sealed with a silicone caulk


Bleed radiators with no valve - is this valve near the boiler what I want?

The object you found in the airing cupboard looks like a gate valve, not an automatic air vent or air separator.  This valve might be for balancing the heat flow or shutting off a supply. I would leave it alone.
Check the back face of your radiators for a bleed valve. Sometimes they are out of sight or even under a cover facing the wall. It will be close to the top of the panel at one of the ends. If the radiator was mounted upside down then it might even be at the bottom and now useless.
Check the painted end of the cap at the top right side of the radiator, in case the bleed valve is hidden under several layers of paint.
If you really have no bleed valves then your best course of action depends on your plumbing skills. Your safest bet might be to ask for help from a plumber. I wouldn’t take any risks at this time of year. Little plumbing jobs can easily become a major problem if something unexpected happens.
Options are:

Temporarily turn up the speed of the pump. It might increase the flow    enough to push some of the air out of the radiator and back into the return pipe. This could move the problem elsewhere, or the air might find its way out of a vent. Remember to switch the pump back afterwards.
It might be possible to vent the air through one of the caps at the top of the radiator by temporarily loosening it little. Be prepared for it not sealing up again afterwards and leaving a leak.
It might be possible to change one of those top coupler caps on the radiator for a screw in bleed valve. This would require isolation of the radiator or even a full system drain down.
Replace the radiator.

If you do get any air out and you have a sealed system then it will need repressurising when cold back to its design pressure.


Put up drywall first - it is easier to get it parallel to close walls since you could install drywall 1-2% off.   If you are not attaching this to a run and it is an open return I would also suggest trying to get at least one side next to a stud.   Often the support holes for these are close to the opening so even with a good anchor these get flimsy.


Hidden/Floating Hardware for Solid Wood Alcove Shelves?

Edit:  I didn't read the requirement that it be supported on the ends.

The easiest way to support it from the ends would be with z-clips

But they are 2 1/8 wide which is likely too wide.

Tiberhan clips appear to be smaller.  You may be able to recess it into the end of the board to reduce the gap between it and the wall. https://www.amazon.com/Bracket-Tiberham-Interlocking-Stainless-Hardware/dp/B07K6HVYP5  No weight limit is listed.  The failure mode I think would be the screw in the drywall side bending.  A common #8 screw typically has a sheer strength rated at 75 pounds.  With 2 brackets on each end, that gives 4 screws at each end, allowing for 600 lbs.

This, however still leaves a bit of a gap at the wall end.

How about this for an idea:  For a 9.5 inch shelf (2x10) you put a 9" long section of 1" angle iron onto the wall.  The end of your shelf has a pair of blind dados that would accept the angle iron and be flush. Shelf slides in from the front, but is supported on the ends.

Original answer for free floating shelf against a solid wall.

This is actually fairly easy.

Find your studs.  find them for the entire length of the stud -- don't assume that studs are vertical.
Use a laser level and mark your holes.  Also mark a line 1/2 the shelf thickness below or above your line of holes.
Drill an initial hole to match elements of your set of dowel centres.  https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-tools/44995-dowel-and-tenon-centers.  I suggest using a jig to make sure that these are perpendicular to the wall.
Place the dowel centres plug ends in the holes.
This step is easier with 2 people:  Get your board lined up with the line, and pressed against the dowel centres.
Verify that the board is lined up with the line.
Use a mallet and tap the shelf on the edge opposite each dowel centre.  Recheck that you are on the line after each tap.
Get a supply of 1/2" steel bar stock.  Verify that it's diameter is consistent. Cold rolled is more accurate.  You can also use 1/2" diameter bolts
Redrill your wall holes to match the steel bars.  If using bolts initially drill about 1/64" under the nominal bolt size.  This will allow the bolt threads to bite into the stud.
Drill your shelves at the dowel centre mark to match the amount of exposed shaft.  I would use nominal 7 inch bars so that you have 3 inches in the stud, 1/2" in the drywall and 3.5 inches in the shelf.  Use a drill press to get perpendicular holes.
If you want the shelves to be portable, put the threaded end in the shelf, and glue in place with epoxy.
Put the shelf into the matching holes.

Risks:  wires are often run through studs at the centre, 1.5" from the stud's surface.  If you are unlucky you may drill through a wire.  For this reason, I would not put a shelf within 1 foot vertically of an outlet, or within 2 studs of a light switch.

You may find the end of a screw for the room on the other side of the wall's drywall, or the outside wall sheathing.  This will pop the screw or nail and will require some inconvenient repair work.

Cool option:  Use a longer rod, and paint it a lighter version of the wall colour.  (Diluting the wall paint with 1-2 parts white works well)  Now the shelf is really floating:  The back edge of the shelf is 1 to 2 inches away from the wall.  The light painted bars are remarkably hard to see.  This works best when the shelf is NOT in an alcove, but both ends are just ending in the middle of the wall.

Option:  I find that 1.5" thick shelves look clunky.  If you have access to a bandsaw with re-saw capability, you can make shelving out of 2x12, and using a jig to hold it at an angle, slice the board in half along the width, giving  you 2 triangular sections, each 1.5" thick on one edge to essentially zero on the other.


Grounding Upgrades While Replacing/Adding Panels

TLDR:

No need to upgrade main panel. A big subpanel will support your future needs.
You MUST upgrade your service (and service entrance) to 200A since your main breaker is already 200A.  WTH?

This will handle everything you plan, and an EVSE also.

LOVE your EMT and rely on it for grounding. Consider it for your next run!
For #4 copper wire running in EMT conduit, upsize the 70A breaker to 90A. (instant capacity!)
That other bar is a neutral bar. Grounds are OK there in a main panel.
Having reclaimed your other neutral bar, remove the double-taps in the main panel.
Never again use a grounding rod as a substitute for a ground wire!

On the main panel
I see the installer made several questionable choices even if they are not Code violations.
Oh wait, there are code violations at the double-tapping of some neutrals, as well as the shared neutral lug.  The bare neutral to the right appears to be your service feeder neutral.  The insulated seems to be your subpanel neutral, and it belongs on the neutral lug on the left!  (but don't runt off any more length please).
Also, I see a 200A main breaker.  Given your modest loads, since you already have 200A, I wonder why on earth you need a service upgrad--- Oh, wait.  Those service wires look awfully small to be 3/0 Cu.   It looks to me like you have a 100A or 125A service with a 200A main breaker.   Yeah, I would go ahead and upgrade that service to 200A A frikin S A P before you set those service wires on fire. But the good news is, you don't need to change this panel!  It's not as full as you think, and your "subpanel" strategy has a lot of legs - you'll be fine!  To repeat:
The installer chose to clip off all excess length, in the goal of "neatness" (and nobody gives out awards for that).  This creates a great inconvenience (wires are too short to freely move breakers around) and also creates a thermal problem with so many active conductors bundled together, see neutral wires bound together.  Never do either one!! Every hot and neutral should (not a Code requirement) to reach any breaker space in the panel (neutral for AFCI or GFCI).  Unbound and slightly loose wires creates the airspace between wires needed for cooling.
You have #4 Cu wire coming off a 70A breaker.  Now, if you look in the ampacity tables, at 60C thermal, #4 is allowed 70A, clear enough.  However, wires run in conduit are permitted 75C thermal.  That gives your #4 feeder 85A, and you are allowed to "round up" to a 90A breaker.  So we change that feeder breaker to 90A immediately, and just bought ourselves 20A of headroom. Easy peasy!
You can squeeze 4 more full spaces out of this panel by doing more double-stuffing.  That'll give you room for full-size breakers for 2 more subpanels.
Remember if you're staying with #4 Cu, that breakers at 90A if run in conduit.   You should also evaluate aluminum for long runs, there's nothing wrong with it for feeder.
Neutral and ground bars
GE has a funny way of doing double-stuff breakers.  They sell 1/2" width breakers that clip onto a "cruciform" bus stab unique to GE.  So this is a GE Q-line panel for sure, and given the positions, it's clear all the spaces have the cruciforms.  This panel has 16 spaces and can accommodate 32 circuits via the 1/2" double-stuffs.
Since there's no such thing an accessory neutral bar, it would be a grave oversight for a panel manufacturer to short you.  Indeed, the bar on the left is a neutral bar that the installer has chosen to populate exclusively with grounds. It is legal in a main panel to put grounds on the neutral bar, but this has led everyone into an error in thinking.  Simply evict the grounds from your other neutral bar and you'll have plenty.
Here is the spotter's guide: The steel case is grounded. Neutral bars are designed to be possible to isolate from the steel case. Ground bars cannot be isolated; they are bolted direct to the steel case.  That's what you do; bolt on accessory ground bars anywhere you please. Either

a) use #10-32 (or any -32 or finer thread pitch at least #8) self-tapping screws to mount them, or
b)  run a fat wire from the ground bar to the neutral bar, ideally in a place you can get a clamp ammeter around it.

Ground rods and grounding
Your plan to update ground rods is a good one. Remember there is such a thing as an UFER ground - this is poured into the concrete and brought out as a chunk of reinforcing rod etc.  This is the best ground available.  Look for this on each concrete pour.  Other than that, if you are not confident of your ground bars, by all means put modern ones in!  They must feed into the main panel to count.  You can keep the substandard grounds connected.

At the back of the house, about 12 feet from where I'm putting in the new subpanel, there's a 1/2" ground rod which I drove myself a few years back when I found that an outlet where I wanted to place a computer did not have a functioning ground

Never do that! Ground bars only handle lightning and ESD (which was what you were after in that application). They do nothing for ground-faults of human-generated electricity, because dirt is too poor a conductor of electricity to return 30A of current.  So you created the illusion of ground-fault safety, but none existed: you could've corrected that by GFCI-protecting the outlet, gaining its ground-fault protection along with the rod's lightning/ESD suppression.

although the EMT provides very excellent ground continuity

Fixed that for ya :)  Seriously, I once accidentally returned several hundred amps of current through 1/2" EMT which was 50 years old and deteriorating from water damage.  EMT is a fantastic grounding path.  And you want a fantastic ground, because the better the ground is, the more likely a bolted fault will magnetic-trip (insta-trip) the breaker in 5ms instead of waiting 500ms for a thermal trip.
I know you want to use PVC for your next run because it's the "new shiny", but that's because it's cheap (and not in the good way).  In commercial installations EMT is mandatory and PVC is not allowed. Consider staying on-board with EMT.  It is superior unless you are going underground. And yeah, it handles the ground for you.  I manage 9 buildings with over 2 miles of EMT - not a ground wire in any building. Our 800A service is grounded through two 4" EMT pipes.  This, plus stranded wire, makes life much easier!
On speccing subpanels
We cannot say it enough: Go Big.  Go really big.  Going with a smaller panel saves you -- maybe, a latté.  Will you still be able to taste that latté several years later when you are confronting another "box full" situation?
Figure on this new subpanel (or a fourth additional subpanel) taking heat/circuits off this existing semi-full main panel.  There's no problem with your 200A service supporting four 85A subpanels like that, since the chances are bascially nil that they'll all be maxed at the same time.  85A = #4Cu in conduit.
Given your situation with your panel (plennnnty of amps; precious little space) I would use subpanels as your primary expansion method.  I like to see houses finish a subpanel add with about 50 spaces (remembering those Q-line double-stuff breakers take half a space). This panel has 16, your two other subpanels have ??? and ???.
Feel free to stay GE, it's a perfectly fine panel. But don't count on the Q-line "double-stuffing" method; most breakers these days need to be  AFCI, GFCI or both.  AFCI must happen in the panel not the first recep (unless the run to that recep is EMT conduit, haha, I love that stuff!!)  NEC 2020 brings GFCI requirement for 240V circuit and that can only happen in the panel.  Together these rules are basically the death-knell of double-stuff breakers.


You could try one of these tools to see if it would get up in there to tighten the faucet anchor nut.

It would be used something like this:

I also wonder about whether you should have first removed the rusty old washer (A) and the dried plumbers putty (B) before installing the new faucet.

First off it seems very likely that the replacement faucet would have come with a new washer. And secondly it would be much easier and secure to tighten the nut against a new washer surface.


Must a flush-mount panel actually be flush?

This is where it does get a little hard to follow things in the NEC so here we go. NEC Article 408 covers Panelboards Part 408.2 is about other articles that apply to panelboards.

So from there we go to NEC 314.20 which covers boxes and a panel is also a junction box. That a flush box must not be set back more than 1/4" from the surface and that's only if the material is non-flammable.

You might try and see if you can find some one who can fabricate a metal extender since I don't think anyone makes one for a panel. The extender would have to be between the exposed wall and slide in external to the panel and secured in such a manner as not to interfere with the panel itself.

You might also check with your AHJ and see if he would grant you an exception but I don't think they would go for it since they are fairly conservative in their thinking.

Sorry for the bad news, good luck.


R and C wiring for Air Handler and Zone Panel

You should wire this controller according to its documentation.   It's pretty clear.  Each thermostat needs R, C, and the other control wires connected to the appropriate zone terminals.  Each heat/cool/fan device needs its own R, and all the rest of its own signal wires except C to be connected to the appropriate terminals.  Exactly per the documentation.
It seems that the only actual question you have is whether you can skip the R wires from the pump and blower to the controller.  You cannot.  Yes, they have their own power supplies, and it is via the R wires and the controller that those power supplies function.  The controller looks like a thermostat to each of the pump and blower, and needs the R wire just as if it was a thermostat.   The controller doesn't need (and has nowhere to connect) C wires from those devices because it doesn't need their power for itself.
It might help you to imagine the controller, simplified, as nothing more than a light switch, on/off, that controls the pump and fan.   In the case of the fan the "light switch" just connects the R to the G wire.   It can't do that if it doesn't have the R wire!    Unlike the thermostats, it doesn't need that R (and C) wire to power itself, but it still needs it to do it's main task ... turn on the fan.


I have seen copper pipe have small pin holes on several occasions. If your pipe is copper and in contact with the cement this may be the cause. The only way to repair is to replace that section of pipe. When I do this kind of repair I make sure to use thick wall copper because it will last longer than thinwall.


Why multiple copper tubes joined together?

The joints are there in the wall as they can't occur within the slab. They split the main supply to the bathroom into branches for the sink, tub/shower, and toilet.


What could be causing drainage issues in our new bathroom?

I think the plumber will need to snake that drain (again), perhaps with a bigger snake. They should snake from the cleanout under the toilet towards the sewer or septic tank (whichever you have).


What is the correct method to determine the drill bit size from the measured threaded diameter?

When you look up a chart of drill sizes, you want clearance sizes. As an example, this drill chart has the drill size used to create holes that will be threaded with a tap, as well as the larger size you would use to create a hole that will clear the given threaded fastener. It actually gives two clearance sizes for that. You might want to use the larger if those two sizes for non-precision work that has more than one fastener, otherwise you could end up with alignment issues between pieces, where the holes don't line up.

Here is a wikipedia table of the same thing.


How much gravel do I need for a paver stone path?

A carefully planned and placed base course is very important for a patio or a continuous walkway so that individual pavers will not heave or settle over time during winter freeze and thaws or when underlying soil becomes saturated with water and turns into a muddy fluid.
Your project is not a continuous patio or walkway, though. Each paver will be well separated from its neighbors and there's a change of elevation at each one too. The generous spacing will make it difficult to even notice if one paver shifts, rotates, or tilts a little bit relative to another. In fact, I question whether loose pavers sitting on gravel and sand may actually be more prone to movement than they would be when sitting directly on and surrounded by soil. Think of the lateral forces involved if a person jogs or pushes/pulls a wheelbarrow or other cart along the path.
My personal opinion is that a base course of gravel and sand is unnecessary for this project. I'd compact and screed the soil so that there's a firm, flat surface (whether level or inclined) and lay the paver right onto it.


Using the term "shelf clips" I was able to locate only one resource, a company called Locksco which has a clip that appears to be similar to yours.

During the search, I saw also the term "metal cabinet shelf clips" but using that search term did not present the previous location/link. At US$20 for quantity four, they certainly are expensive.

Note also that no references of scale are apparent. They could be too small or too large for your purpose.

Additional searches proved fruitless.


How can I repair nail and screw holes if I don't know if wall is drywall or blueboard?

Asking the basic questions is what gets us started.... not silly at all.

If they are as simple as nail holes from picture hanging and the like, and there are only a few of them, use spackle. It comes in small quantities, pints for example, so much will not go to waste. It is intended for only small holes.

If there are a lot of repairs, you may want to go with joint compound, it is pretty much the same as spackle, it is easy to sand, water based for easy clean up, but you will get a bunch more for the about the same money. It is intended for larger repairs, or new drywall install, can be built up, but it does shrink a bit, not so that it will fall out. If the shrinkage is noticeable, add another coat, no biggie.

Plaster is way overkill for this type of repair, it requires a skill to use. I have tried to use it before years ago, and it set up as soon as it touched the wall, quite surprising. I now know were it is to be used nowadays, and nail repair is not one of them.


Mounting a shelf into concrete, with two non-identical anchors (brackets)

Only you can decide if you can live with building a shelf with mismatched brackets like that. To me it would look like a major hack even if it was in the back of the garage or in a closet.

From a structural standpoint there should be no problem with the mismatched brackets as long as they mounted properly so that the resulting shelf surface was level and both brackets have more than enough capability to bear the load that you intend to place on the shelf.


Does a swing-slide frameless glass door mechanism exist?

Expanding on my comment: I think that the main problem with the proposed setup is lacking a slide or rail on the bottom. Without a slide on the bottom the glass door can swing perpendicular to the sliding direction. See the below explanation for what I mean.

I have a sliding shower door with a sliding mechanism on the top (a stainless steel rail with 2 wheels per door on top of the rail) and a tiny U channel on the bottom to keep the door from swinging. I know, I need to clean the shower a little...

The door is sliding in the direction of the blue arrows. The U channel on the bottom is keeping the door from swinging in the direction of the red arrows. This U channel is about 2 CM long and seems to be made from aluminium.


Can a motion sensor switch be installed as part of a pair of switches?

Your switches and lights are wired in a "three way" configuration, so you need a three way motion sensor switch.

For example: the Eaton OS306U, although there are a variety on the market and they do start around $22.

Important things to note:

You probably need a model rated for "No Neutral Required", depending on the wiring to that box by the garage.
If you use Florescent or LED lighting make sure that the switch is rated for it (most newer ones are).
Make sure that the switch is rated for the lighting load you have.  Most such switches are rated for 5 amps / 600 watts.  If you have more light than that, you need a pricier switch.
It sounds like the current switch might be miswired.  Consult an electrician if you are not 100% sure.
Good photos of the switch and wiring, posted in your question, help us give more specific and tailored answers.


This question was answered before with a good solution shown at this posting:

How can I repair a rusting dishwasher tray?


Broken cabinet door.. Need help in identifying the part

I don't think you'll find those anymore, they're pretty old. But, they're called Cabinet Brackets/Braces, Plastic Brackets/Braces, Screw Blocks, Angle Brackets/Braces, Modesty Blocks.

I'd suggest the left Metal L-bracket below & screw in a new location, just to the left or right. Unless, the old holes still hold strong & can actually tighten down very well with no slipping or spinning.


How can I grind a portion of the threads off a hex bolt?

If it's not important for the shank of the bolt to remain perfectly round then a belt sander with a coarse grit will do fine. The 80 grit is the most fine I'd try; 60 would be better. Grits as coarse as 36 or even 24 are routinely used for fast material removal by an angle grinder when working with steel. You could get a belt that coarse but it will leave a rougher surface compared to 60 or 40.

Assuming that your bolt is fairly small in diameter it might be slightly easier if you can fix the sander in place and manipulate the bolt instead. Ask an assistant to hold the sander upside-down on a work bench. Then hold the bolt to the belt while rotating the bolt. You'll be able to see the work as it progresses and it'll be easier to control. The bolt will get hot quickly; plan on using pliers (locking pliers if possible) to hold it.


Will this router and dovetail jig combo work?

These will be compatible with the correct bushing also known as a template guide.  I checked the description on Milwaukee's site and all it says is that it has an "4-point PM bushing", which is talking about the plunger, not the template guides. I didn't see it in the package contents.  If it isn't there you may need to get a bushing that fits the jig plates.  Milwaukee has a set that would have all the bushings you would need for this jig if you were to buy more plates for your jig. It runs around $40 on Amazon.


Monitor blacks out when fridge turns on - bad power supply? Surge protection?

Pretty clearly the sudden draw from starting the fridge's compressor is pulling down the line enough to cause the monitor to hiccup. The question is what to do about it. Some suggestions:

Buy a new monitor (they're getting cheaper all the time)
Get a line voltage stabilizer (e.g. APC's Line-R 300VA, although that one is 120VAC)
Admire the fact that you have a very nice "Refrigerator Just Turned On" sensing system


Change switched outlet to ceiling fan and unswitched outlet

You can just cap off each end of the unused red wire; there's no code issue with leaving it in place (see Q1/A1 here). If you later change your mind or want to have the switch also control the outlet/something else, you'll be glad you didn't remove it.

The rest of your plan looks reasonable, though if I understand it correctly -- you're intercepting the run between the outlet and the switch, which runs through the attic, to install your fan? -- the logistics of splicing in the box for your fan might be tricky. Though, since you're already up in the attic, you could pull a new 4-wire between the switch and the ceiling fan box; that'd also give you the option to install a fan with a separately-switched light fixture.


Is grout in the toilet a plumbing clog concern?

It's not likely to be a problem. The cement in the mortar is diluted enough that it won't create a plug downstream. You're mostly looking at clean silica sand. However, I'd play it safe and vacuum it out before flushing.

I'd then disallow that contractor from entering my home ever again.


What is the proper way to dispose of used hydrochloric acid?

HCl can be combined with baking soda to form salt water and CO2.

NaHCO3 + HCl = NaCl + H2O + CO2

NOTE this is exothermic and effervescent, mix slowly, adding the soda to the acid. In a wide-mouth container.


Hunter ceiling fan stopped working but is working again

Contacting the manufacturer is a good call and probably your best solution at this point. Unfortunately after 2 years, any sort of warranty will have expired. Still they may want to know the details of your incident for R&D purposes.

If you smell burning electronics, it is always wise to get them inspected and replaced. That smell means there was heat in the electronics. Heat means damage. Damage means failure. Failure at your household voltages could mean fire or electrocution.

I'm not sure if the click/catching sound was the fault of the fan or not. Something I noticed with one of the fans in my house was that the clicking/catching noise came from the wires from the ceiling rubbing on the fan motor housing and catching on the screws that held the device together. If you hear this kind of sound from a different fan, check the wiring to make sure it's not rubbing the insulation off!

Also inspect the wiring now to make sure the burning smell didn't come from the insulation. If any of the insulation is damaged, you will need to replace the wiring to that fan.


How do I join my horizontal slat fence with my neighbor's fence (vertical fence)

Before you start, talk to your neighbor first, get a feel for any concerns if any they have. Then inspect the post to see if it would hold a section of fence. Then go to it.

EDIT: Ok lets try a different approach, dose your property line split the post, (red line), or meets it (green line)?

This will make a difference. I would also consider placing a stationary panel first because the swing of you gate would be hitting the curb on the driveway.


How do I clear this cement pipe underground drainage system?

You could try hiring an electric eel

or get a plumber with a jetter

But either of these options may still not work it the pipe is broken or snapped and the two sections of pipe are now ofset from one another.
Even if these options do work to clear the pipe you still have to remember that the cause of the root problem is still there, cracked or broken joints or pipe, which will require ongoing treatment eg. running the eel through once a year or similar chemical treatment.

The other option is to get the shovel out or hire a mini digger and replace the pipe with a pvc drain


3" conduit with many bends - is it worth to build it?

This is actually quite simple.

Step one - use PVC electrical conduit, not PVC pipe.

Step two - provide an access point (such as an LB, or a junction box) for every 360 degrees (at most) of turn. This will be something that remains accessible by removing a panel when the walls are closed back up, like any other junction box access.

If you have 6 90 degree turns, either put in 3 90's and an access point (if using an LB, that can be the access point) or 4 90's an an access point, depending how the run works out best for placing the access point. Use electrical conduit sweeps, not plumbing 90's or 45's.

3, access point, 3 would be most balanced, but

4, access point, 2 is also fine.

There's no need to get too excited about leaving a pull string in place - you can always vacuum one in, or pull one in while pulling an old cable out. Do it, or don't do it, as you prefer. Do make sure that the ends of your conduit terminate in junction boxes from which the cables leave by fairly tight holes or grooves (or through proper cable clamps, but that can be tricky with pre-terminated cables), so that your conduit does not become your new rodent pathway and nest.


Mini-split for cooling only (not heat) -- do I need the outdoor part?

Yes. you need both pieces. An air conditioner is a heat pump that moves heat from inside to outside. A dual mode system that can supply heat just runs the same process "in reverse."

A heat pump draws heat from some source (often air) and transfers it into your house. An air conditioner is the same thing, but instead of drawing "free" heat from some thermal source, it draws heat from inside, and transfers it outside.

Your window A/C unit simply incorporates all of these pieces into one box, which necessarily hangs in your window so that they evaporator coil can be inside and the condenser coil outside. A "mini-split" system just separates these two, and is just an alternate installation style of what is commonly referred to as central air. The only difference is that instead of integrating into built-in ductwork (which might not be there), it instead hangs a unit on your wall. That unit incorporates the evaporator coil and fan, much like the inside half of your window AC. You still need the other half as well.

The image below is from Wikipedia


How can I convert a ventless propane fireplace to natural gas?

The short answer is all you need is a new orifice.

The complicated answer is : don't do that.  Ventless systems have been banned in various places, and come with significant hazards not fully mitigated by a carbon monoxide detector.  Read for instance : http://www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/48762/Bob-Vila-and-the-Vent-Free-Gas-Fireplace-A-Sorry-State-of-Affairs

A choice quote: "After doing research, we decided we would never put a vent-free (room vented) appliance into our home. Because of this decision, we didn't believe it would be right to sell them to our customers."

I would suggest asking a different question "how can I vent this ventless gas log set?".  You could also calculate the number of heating days : if this is just decoration perhaps it's cheaper to just run it on propane until it dies.


Does it violate NEC to run an AC adapter's low-voltage output cable through a wall?

There's a better solution to this problem

Most low-voltage wall adapter outputs for low-powered ITE such as an IP camera qualify as Class II power circuits under the NEC, which means that Article 725 applies to the situation you propose.  However, the wire used for wall adapter output cables is not legal to stuff into the wall in the way you are proposing, as it's not a listed UL/NEC type CL2 or CL3 cable as required by NEC 725.135(A) and (M) (instead, it's some AWM type, at least on the adapter I had laying around handy).

So, you have two options at this point:

Run a CL2 cable through the wall

The perhaps-simplest way to do this would be to run a listed CL2 or CM cable through the wall -- two-conductor thermostat or in-wall speaker wire works, although you'll need to get jacketed cable instead of the normal unjacketed-pair stuff in order to comply fully with 725.139(E).  At each end point, you'd terminate it to a dual binding post or dual banana jack wallplate (you can get modular wallplates that can be set up this way -- look at the Leviton QuickPort line for one of many example).  You'd then chop the AC adapter's output cable in two, fit banana plugs to the chopped/stripped ends, and plug them in in the appropriate places, minding polarity of course.

Just make sure that the low voltage plate is on a separate bracket or box from the 120VAC, or that a listed divider separates the 120VAC gang from the low voltage gang.

Do it the old fashioned way

The "old fashioned way" is to use a proper Chapter 3 wiring method such as NM (Romex) cable (note, NOT flexible cord, or else it's as many lashes from an extension cord as it takes to acknowledge that NEC 400.8 is true, wise, and holy!) to run 120V power from a nearby circuit to a new receptacle located near the camera's home, which then can have the AC adapter run to it.

You'll of course want to turn off and figure out the circuit you plan to use for this, and use proper splicing and cable securement techniques.  Also, the power cable can't share a junction box with the Ethernet cable unless you shove a listed divider between two separate gangs, one for the Ethernet side and the other for the 120VAC side.


Cloudy white film spots on surface of stone sealer

From my experience, it is excess moisture. The one spot looks like water sat on the sealer before it cured. The remedy is add a bit more sealer to the area, try just enough to dampen the area first on a clean cloth. Make sure it is dry, and stays dry until it cures.


They would not be stapled in conduit anywhere in the world.
Check very carefully that you have found both ends of the same cable/conduit. The most likely reasons for "being stuck" are:

that you have the same cable, but you've missed a spot where it comes
out of one conduit and goes into another (possibly being attached to
something),
or you have two different cables and the other end of the one you are trying to move is fastened to something outside the conduit,
or you've missed a "pull point" (removable access cover or junction box) providing access to the cable inside the conduit so that you're not trying to
pull it around more than 360 degrees of bending.

Typical access points involve a relatively sharp bend which you will NOT be able to pull around, since you are supposed to remove the cover and pull from the open access point.
If you think you have eliminated those possibilities, you could put a vacuum cleaner (wet or wet/dry type - a "shop vac") at one end, and verify that you really do have the correct conduit at the other end by noticing the air getting sucked in there, and then you could apply some wire pulling lubricant to the open end, and allow the vacuum to pull it into and through the conduit. That should help the wire to move, if it's not actually bound up by a sharp turn at an access point you have not opened to pull from.


Drilling thru cement floor with radiant heat flow below

A thermal imaging camera will be able to pinpoint the location of the pipes, I have a flir camera that attaches to my phone it will even show wiring that has bad connections they cost around 200 and up and are a great troubleshooting tool for a DIY person. I have used my camera to find leaks where I could not detect water from the roof until it ran down a wall and made a wet spot on sheetrock. I have used it for sealing up duct work, and for electrical inspections. Finding the location of the radient pipe work would be another great use for this tool. When the heat is running you would take a image and the hot zone will be where the pipe is. Based on the work I have used my camera for I believe you could pinpoint your pipes within a 1/4" or even closer depending on how thick the concrete is above the pipe.


What can I improvise to slowly close a door?

Run a light chain from the frame to the door.  The attach a small weight to its center.


Does a longer immersion heater last longer?

The lower watt density on the longer element will reduce the thermal stress on the heater as long as it will fit. Having a lower watt density should equate to longer life with all other things being equal. Make sure your anode is in good shape when replacing the element for maximum life of the element and the tank. Added:Your heater life may be short because the anode has eroded away. Usually they are attached on the top of the tank a rod that is made out of metal designed to be consumed instead of the tank, heater, and plumbing being erroded. The anode should be checked every few years, I find they usually last ~3 years and many are gone in 5 years. Check the anode and probably replace much cheaper than a new heater, and you just might find your heat rods lasting twice as long or longer.


How to repair street end of driveway that has loose asphalt?

Asphalt is only as good as the base it's laid on.
The fact that you appear to have vegetation growing out of the cracks implies that the base may be a bit iffy right there.
There's no particular benefit to ripping up 6 feet of driveway and changing to cobblestone if you have a few inches deteriorating - since your picture only shows a small area, and the usual pattern is cracking near the edges, I'm guessing a much smaller area is actually cracked.
Changing to cobblestone does not magically solve anything - cobblestone is also only as good as its base, and is normally a lot more expensive, and it's hard to clear snow from effectively, which is needful in New York State. They can be very slippery and are inherently uneven.
An effective fix in any case will be to remove the damaged area, fix the base so it's solid, and then put (whatever) on top. Whatever could be new asphalt, concrete, or cobblestone. A solid base is excavating down below any traces of topsoil and filling with compacted "road base" - crushed stone including the fine dust, ideally, but that varies somewhat with locale and what's available. Compaction is important. When the base moves, the surface cracks.
One more possible factor is that the asphalt at the edge needs to be laid in "full thickness" - if the base is not cut down at the point where it butts into the road/street surface and you have a thin or tapered layer at the edge, failure is assured.


Can i run power to my workshop using an open existing 30amp breaker?

You can put in a sub you need 4 wires ground , neutral and your 2 Hots. Since the shop is detached you will need to have a ground rod and #6 wire is normal for you his , I would consider running a larger feeder wire than #10 but if only running 1 saw and your lighting #10 could work. Even though you have the wiring protected at the main panel with a 30 amp breaker your sub can have a total of more than 30 amps if you add the breakers. For example if all single pole breakers you may have 80 amps if you total all the breaker values. The total load is the important thing here as we usually have a safety factor and only use 80% of the circuit capacity. In fact most homes that I check are running at 25% of their main breaker or less.  So yes you can but I would go bigger, I have never been asked to reduce the size of a panel but many times I have gone back and upsized the service. At a minimum put in larger conduit so you can upsize later. Added
I was realizing that you did say 2 with ground as I earlier mentioned you will need 4 wire to the sub since you will need to add a neutral if in conduit back to the panel this or a new 4 wire run at the largest size you can afford, for example I just put a sub in for a small heat pump it needed a 20 amp circuit , I put in #6 and a small sub, now I have plenty of power to add lighting to my round pen and even a hot tub over there or whatever I might need hope the additional info helps.


What is the best way to remove spray paint from a blacktop driveway?


Not to be used in totally enclosed or recessed luminaires

If you want to fight over legalese, you'll be thrilled to know that the courts have ruled in favor of the Oxford comma. The instructions probably predate the court ruling, but after the Court date, the lights should be totally OK in recessed luminaires which are not totally enclosed. Just be aware this has been appealed. If the Supreme Court reverses, your lights will instantly burn out or start a fire.

Seriously, though...

The issue is about cooling.  The lamp needs to be cool to function safely.  Either:

It is an incandescent or HID lamp, and the concern is the high temperature of the bulb starting a fire -- the bulbs love heat, and are happy-dappy at temperatures that would melt nuclear fuel.
If it is a CFL lamp, (in 2020? Why?) the concern is the electronic driver circuit being cooked to death.
If it is an LED, that too, but mainly LED emitter temperature management.  The LED emitter makes all its heat in a tiny spot no larger than a dime.  They don't use much energy, true, but when you have 9 watts focused on a spot that small, it becomes difficult to heat-sink.  LEDs are happiest at 25C, are specced at 85C junction temp (at the emitter itself), some can endure 125C, but fry themselves at higher temps.

So all of them depend on either radiant heating (dissipating through the fixture) or convection cooling (air taking away the heat, then moving on through).  Radiant heating is often enough for incandescents and HID, and most older fixtures are built only for this.  They are not made for the additional cooling required by efficient bulbs.


What causes repeat trip of thermostat in dryer?

The most probable cause of your dryer over heating is caused by a blockage of air flow in the dryer exhaust venting. This has happened to me and causes the dryer to display a flashing AF (air flow) indicator.

Blockage is generally caused by build up of lint in the venting duct. It can also be due to something closing off the outside end of the vending duct such as snow buildup or or the vent flapper door getting stuck shut.

In my case there is about 22 feet of 4" ducting that unfortunately has to route through seven separate right angle joints as the duct goes up through an inside wall to between floor joints between 1st and 2nd floor before it finally makes it way through the back garage wall to the exterior. Even though the dryer has a good lint screen that is cleaned regularly some lint makes its way out with the warm damp air into the duct. The long duct cools the air and allows a good share of the lint to end up sticking to the inside of the pipe. Eventually over time the duct work needs to be opened up and cleaned....a painful and lengthy job.


Humidity causes Asko clothes washer to buzz and not start

I also have an elderly 20004 excellence that screeches and won't start when humidity is high; a damp laundry room in winter is the problem in my case. Whenever the repair man attended it behaved perfectly.

I decided to investigate the electronic circuit board as that is where the singing seemed to be coming from and found that there is very little protection for this board from the big space surrounding the drum and all those suds. The board had some yellowy brown substance on it (probably detergent residue from an oversuds adventure in the past)  which I carefully and very gently cleaned off with rubbing alcohol, some paper towel and q-tips using a rolling movement so as to minimize damage to the pins and  delicate surface. Be careful not to leave any paper or cotton "crumbs" caught on the sharp bits.  I was amazed at how much dirt was removed and how the washer was instantly fixed.

I have repeated this every winter for the last few years whenever the circuit board sings and have been grateful that the tiny cost of one special screw driver and a gentle clean could prolong the useful life of my washer.

Hope you find a solution for yours.


Closing refrigerator's door causes freezer's door to stay open

Before going out and buying new rubber seals, simply extend the fridge front legs about one inch, tipping the fridge back so that the doors will swing shut by gravity. This will solve your problem.


That actually looks pretty well supported the way you did it. If you haven't straightened the rods that bent, you should try to do so. Also, if you have any duct tape, put a strip of it on each end and one down the middle to help hold those planks in place. Good luck and stay safe.


Why is the furnace heating the house far past the thermostat setting

The problem is pretty clearly at the furnace end, if switching off the thermostat does not stop operation.


That appears to be a fairly standard aluminum door and that the door frame has gotten a bit bent, and you do seem to have identified the area where it's catching.
I'd suggest that you bang the frame back into its proper shape. A hammer would be the proper tool for this, BUT it's hard to hit a small area like that precisely with a hammer, and a missed shot could do more damage than it fixes. To protect against that, hold a block of wood (any scrap big enough to hold and hit while not smashing your hand with the hammer will do) against the frame to spread the force and hit the block. You'll need to hold the block firmly against the frame so you're transmitting the pounding force through the wood and directly into the frame. With the house supporting the other side of the metal frame, so long as you don't miss the block, you can't really do any damage, so give it a few good, hard whacks. Check your progress regularly - there's no sense in continuing to hammer once it's flat. ;)
It's possible that the metal may have taken a bit of a set in the bent position and no amount of hammering on it will get it to bend back and stay in position. If this is the case, some adhesive behind the frame might do the trick, but it will be difficult to clamp the frame exactly where it needs to be while the adhesive sets. You could use another long piece of wood jammed in across the door from one jamb to the other as a "clamp" using the other side of the door to provide the pressure. The drawback, though, is that when it comes time to finally replace the door, you most likely won't be able to reuse the frame (most screen doors come with a frame that is pre-drilled for all the hardware) so you'll have to remove this one. The adhesive will be a royal pain to remove and might even take a chunk of the door jamb with it when you try to remove it.
You might be better off drilling a small hole through the aluminum door frame and holding it down with a small, flat head screw. You'll have to ensure that the head is completely flush, which means you'll have to dimple in the frame of the door a bit, or the door will catch on the screw head and you'll be right back in the same boat. Use a countersink bit to put a bevel on the inside of the hole you drill to give the screw head room to sit down into the metal. You'll want to use a very light touch with the countersink - too much and the hole in the metal will quickly become too big for the screw you've chosen. You'll want a standard wood screw with a flat head and a taper below like this:
Source: Lowes.com - no endorsement of this product or vendor intended or implied
A screw 1/2 - 3/4" long will probably do the trick just fine.
It also looks like the lip that the door seals against is a bit bent, too. Once you've got the frame back against the door jamb, check to see if this is still bent. If so, gently bang this back into shape with your hammer and block of wood. Since there's no wood backing this piece, you will need to have an assistant hold a larger piece of wood to make a backing to hammer against. You'll want a longer piece of wood to bridge from one part of the door where it's straight to another, then you use your block and hammer to flatten the bulge, sandwiching the door between the two pieces of wood. This will likely be a bit harder to do because you've got a person holding your backer board instead of the whole house. Take your time, be careful and hit much more gently than you did before - you don't want your piece of wood to fly out of your grip and hit your helper. If you do, he may bail on you, then you're stuck fixing it on your own!
To fix up the closer, pull the pin that holds the closer into the mounting bracket. Remove the bracket from the door and take it to a concrete sidewalk or driveway, or put it on a sturdy brick, cinder block or heavy (thick) piece of metal. Put your pounding block on that obviously bent piece (as shown in the last pic), and hammer that back flat. If the other side of the bracket mount is bent, hammer it flat too.
Remount the bracket to the door frame. I'd suggest using some longer screws (fatter ones would work, but they likely won't fit through the holes in the bracket, so longer it is) so that they'll bite into new wood. Once that's screwed back in place, put the closer back in place and drop the pin into it.


How do I install concrete blocks to support deck stairs?

( Note: I see your comment that this is no longer an issue, but since the question is still opened and unanswered, I'll put something down here to get it off of our list and possibly help someone else with a similar issue. )

First things first, Tester is right, don't pay the contractor until you get the permit, and force them to fix their mistakes at their own cost (regardless of whether you paid them or not).

Next, I'm going to suggest ignoring the premise of the question and you remove the stairs to fix this. Depending on how it's attached (I've only done interior stairs where ground movement wouldn't be an issue) you may be able to detach it from the deck, remove any bolts holding it to the supports, and take it out in one piece. Before removing the stairs, make sure to mark the location for the center of your cement pours using stakes about 4' away in two directions (one to the side, and one straight out to the yard, so that with a couple tape measures you can locate the exact spot).

For the hole, make it deep enough to get below the frost line in your location. Fill the bottom with gravel and pour your cement. I like the idea of metal brackets in the cement that keep the wood out of contact with the ground, rather than embedding the post in the cement itself, but only if you have a vertical load and no shear or twisting forces (e.g. I wouldn't use that for a fence). Make sure the bracket is above ground (my neighbor buried his and has all kinds of moisture issues). If you do place the wood support in the concrete, then at least make sure the concrete comes above ground level and slopes away from the wood on all sides.

Finally, reinstall your stairs. Hopefully you measured twice so that all you need to do is cut your supports to the right height and maybe drill some new holes for the bolts.


Insulation basement (Rigid Foam). What to do in the unfinished area

When I partially finished my basement, I insulated the exterior walls of the finished part, and left the interior walls and the unfinished without any insulation. My AHJ (in Ohio) approved this, stating that there was no need by code to insulate the unfinished part, nor insulate between the finished and unfinished parts. He did insist on insulating the rim joist in the finished part, which is very sound advice - that is the bulk of heat loss in a basement (unless your frost depth covers most of the basement height).

If your AHJ allows for insulating only the finished area, I would do just that, and leave the walls to the unfinished area without insulation.

In my basement I have around 420 sqft finished area, an adjacent 320 sqft unfinished area and another walled off unfinished area of 220 sqft. The finished area has a single heating vent at the ceiling. The finished area is slightly cooler than the rest of the house, but is noticeably warmer than the adjacent unfinished area. The walled off unfinished area is again colder than the unfinished area that is next to the finished area, so the heat gradient is fairly obvious. However, even during the coldest weather the coldest part of the basement is still fairly warm, and with a frost depth of only 32 inches my experience might not apply to colder climates.


Why do my bathroom outlets only work if I plug in a particular device?

It sounds like there is a high-resistance connection somewhere that is limiting the amount of current that can be delivered. Your cordless toothbrush is probably pulling very little current. You can confirm this by plugging in and turning on a higher current load (which doesn’t work) and at the same time checking the voltage at another outlet. I expect it will drop to a low voltage.

You can test to see if it is the breaker, if you are comfortable working with the panel cover off. While the load is plugged in, check the voltage on the black or red wire coming out of the breaker. You can probably test the voltage at the screw on the breaker.

Most likely you have a poor splice of other connection somewhere. Do the outlets use back-stabs for the wires? If so, one of them may not be making a good connection. I’d suggest redoing all of the outlets using the side screws instead.

One more thing. When you see the low voltage from hot to neutral, also check voltage neutral to ground. If this rises, the problem is in the neutral wire, not the hot wire.


What is best practice for tying in grounds on a metal box?

This is where copper crimp connectors come in handy.

Lets say you have a 3 gang box, with three cables entering, and three devices to connect.  You also have to bond the grounding conductor to the box, if you're using a metal box. So you might have three grounding conductors entering, but need 4 grounding conductors, and they all have to be bonded.

Leave the grounding conductors from the three entering cables long, and get a scrap piece of bare wire to use as a pig tail.  Feed the three grounding conductors through the crimp connector, so that there is enough wire left to connect to the devices.  Insert one end of the scrap piece of wire into the connector, then crimp the connector.

Now tuck the crimped grounds back in the box, and attach the bonding wire to the box (using either a screw or ground clip).  Attach one grounding conductor to each device, and you're done.

Alternatively, you can leave one conductor really long (while still including the extra bonding conductor), then use that single conductor to connect all the devices.


Weird wiring in a 4-connection switch configuration for ceiling fan/light

This is pretty easy, because whatever's happening with the red and white wires there is none of our business.

It's like if you call in a realtor and prime contractor, and they show up at the same time and look alike... that's none of your business.

(You can take it apart if you want to... but then you become responsible for everything going on in that area of the circuit, and I gather you don't have the skills to pay those bills.  Such unnecessary dismantling almost always ends in an electrician call.  I do have the skills, and those colors unnerve me,  and I'd do some investigating, but I wouldn't touch it until I'd fully mapped it out.)

So, all ground wires everywhere except the old Soviet Bloc are bare, green, or yellow/green.  All grounds go together. Done.

The black/white wire is supply hot, and it's not unusual for supply hots to splice with other things to go onward to other points of use. So you leave that alone and just join the red, white and a pigtail to the "common" on your new duplex switch.

Except for grounds, color codes mean next to nothing because of the way cables are made.  It'd be peachy keen if we could just buy red/black, blue/white, red/yellow/yellow or whatever combo you needed, but nope - cables are only made one way.  So colors are pretty useless unless you swerve out of your way to use colored tape to mark wires.

The remaining two wires:

Solo-red from the wall goes to the light.
Solo-black from the wall goes to the fan.

Each of these goes to a switched-hot screw on your duplex switch.


What is the relation between these two measures?

If the scales of both relationships are linear then it is very easy to write a linear equation to translate from one scale to the other. You have two points (x,y) from your endpoints as follows. (x being your input value and y being the output value).

(x1,y1) = (7.2, 1.06)
(x2,y2) = (2.5, 1.00)

Knowing that the two point form of a linear equation is:

You can solve that for y in terms of x and arrive at:

(helpful equation solver widget that was used)


How do I remove this broken CFL bulb from tiny recessed light fixture?

I've had this problem several times and the way to remove the bulb is simple.
The recessed light fixture can be removed from the ceiling if while you gently pull on the outer edge of the fixture and press the clips in that you see in picture #2. You may have to pull and press alternating sides. There should be enough cable to allow the removal of the entire fixture. Make sure the power is off.
The fixture is made from two parts. There should be an indent or clip that can be pressed in to allow removal of the cone piece from the base.
Once they are separate you should be able to have a better grip on the bulb to remove it.


If its parallel to the joist, you can be pretty sure its not holding anything up other than the 2x6. I'd guess the purpose of the 2x6 is probably there for the edges of the ceiling to be nailed to.


Can I remove prehung door from frame when installing?

In response to your question about a door being difficult to install the frame right without a door, getting the door frame square, following the walls, besides plumb on the sides and level at the head, which should result in a square frame, can be difficult. The small gap that is typical of doors will reveal a lot if there is any minor discrepancy in the jamb when it does not have a door to follow. The door itself acts as a big square to gauge the jamb by. Also, some doors are not perfectly flat. Having the door in place at the time of setting the jamb allows the jamb to be tweaked a little here and there to get the door to set properly to the door stop. Using my method below is how I get past issues of weight, easier centering of a door when I have a specific spot I want the jamb in the opening, and aligning it within a wall width with allowances for tweaking.
In cases when a door is very heavy or even a lighter door that is a 36" leaf or 8' tall, I will remove it and install the jamb only to a point. After the top corners of the jamb are shimmed tight enough to keep from shifting around in the opening, and set with one finish nail so it doesn't fall out by the top and set bottom hinge plumb from the top corner and set with one finish nail also. This way if the door is light enough or at least not too heavy, the door could be set back in its place. After it is set back in place I will remove the middle screw of all three hinges and that's where the shims will go. I will rip my shims unless they're already about an inch and a half wide. I will typically rip a wider shim to no wider than 2 inches so it fits between the two remaining screws that holds the hinges in place. I failed to mention this first... the floor is checked for level at the opening so if one leg of the door has to be longer than the other that is done before the door jamb is even set in the opening so there's no gap at the bottom of the jamb, where they meet the floor.
Now back at securing the hinges. With the middle screw still out and gauging the shims so the gap is adjusted evenly, set a screw that matches the color of your hinges, but is 2 1/2" long so it will tie the hinge through the jamb and into the rough framing. The sequence are used for this is to shim the top hinge as close as can be figured and set the screw in the top hinge, all while reading the gap from the top hinge to the corner and get it even with the rest of the gap along the hinge side. You will need to confirm that there will be the same size gap on the latch side as well. With the bottom hinge presumably plumb to the top corner that could be set also with its screw in place. This leaves the middle hinge to be done, this I typically remove the hinge pin, tap the shim in or out as needed to get both knuckles to line up perfectly and so the pin drops in after I set the screw. This should get the jamb perfectly straight according to the door.
After the hinge side is squared away and presumably the gap is even across the top of the door since the jamb has been corrected to hit the floor, if necessary is no more than setting the final shims in 3 if not 4 different places on the strike side after you apply your 1X4 and finish off the set of your door making sure that the door stop is hitting the door evenly in all places along it's length.


Can this 35lb mirror mount on this wall?

Those apear to be Tapcon type screws with 2 there should be no problem supporting the load. I would probably add a washer to each screw so the wire cannot jump off the head if the mirror is adjusted. I would not worry about trying to fill the hole around the shaft of the screw it will support the load and if filled when removing the screw at a later date it may break the plaster.


How to correctly remove a dry verge piece

https://manthorpebuildingproducts.co.uk/contentfiles/files/MBP8249-F%20-%20GLV%20SmartVerge%20Linear%20Dry%20Verge%20System%20-%20Fitting%20Instructions%20(web).pdf.
 This link will show you how the material is fixed in place. It looks like to remove the bottom piece, you will need to remove the upper piece or pieces, first.


With a shower, should the edge where the wall meets the floor be caulked, or is grout okay?

I'm just a motivated DIY guy, but when I learned tiling I was told to use silicone caulking wherever tile changes directions.  So, inside corners, meeting the floor, etc.


You can use a program to calculate the angles for your desired gambrel shape.  Here is one such example:

http://www.easyrafters.com/gambrel.htm

As @Skaperen says, a basic gambrel is nothing more than 1/2 of an octagon.

  Gambrel Types  Easy Rafters groups gambrel roofs into two categories,
  regular gambrels and custom gambrels.

  A regular gambrel is one that fits inside a circumscribed semi-circle
  as shown below (the shape of the roof is essentially one half of a
  regular octagon). The slopes for a regular gambrel roof are fixed at
  28 31/32 over 12 for the lower rafters and 4 31/32 over 12 for the
  upper rafters (these slopes are rounded to 29/12 and 5/12 for display)
  and the length of each side or face will always be equal. Whenever the
  lower span dimension is changed the other dimensions are automatically
  recalculated to maintain the same regular proportions.

  Custom gambrels on the other hand allow complete flexibilty of design
  without the constraints of the regular gambrel option.

  Regular Gambrels

  A regular gambrel fits inside a circumscribed semi-circle.

  Custom Gambrels


170 year old home with sagging 2nd floors

Excellent description as to existing condition and what is occurring on site.

You have several issues to deal with: 1) due to the age and amount of sag, you will not be able to jack it level, 2) cutting the sag out and sistering another joist will not solve the sag on top, 3) installing a beam will require a post and footing at each end, 4) solutions will be limited to the height of the ceiling.

Code requires a minimum of 40 lbs. per square foot live load (furniture and people) plus I’d guess about 15 lbs. per square foot dead load (joists, flooring, ceiling finish, etc.) for a total load of 55 lbs. per square foot.

When retrofitting older buildings, we like to “evenly distribute” loads rather than create point loads. That is to say, adding joists to span the room rather than adding a beam will probably create fewer problems. ...but here are two options:

Option 1: Add Joists: 2x8’s can’t span 19’, so I’d use 2x10’s and hold them down to the bottom of the sag. (It’s okay to notch them at the ends to sit on the plate.) However, 2x10’s spanning 19’ will only support about 60 lbs.per square foot, (depending on the species and grade,) so you’ll need to install them 12” o.c. (Be careful about creating squeaks between the new floor joists and existing subfloor. I’d recommend you nail or screw the subfloor to the new joists.)

Option 2: Add Beam: I’d recommend not trimming the bottom sag off the existing joists if possible...just sister a joist to make the bottom level. The existing 2x8 joists can support about 80 - 100 lbs. per square foot at 24” o.c. and spanning about 9’. So, I’d sister 2x4’s or 2x6’s to the bottom and make the bottom level. For a beam to span 19’ and support the floor, you’d need to support about 520 lbs. per linear foot. You’d need a 6x14 (depending on the species and grade) or a glu-lam beam. Option 2 does not seem plausible because you’ll reduce the height in the room by 14” or so and create about a 5,000 lbs. point load at each end.


Is PEX very susceptible to damage from rats/rodents?

Rats are not specifically attracted to PEX, but they do have to "seek out opportunities to" chew on things all the time. Their incisor teeth never stop growing, so if left unchecked they would grow so long that the rats would no longer be able to open their mouths and starve to death. So they are compelled to keep them worn down by biting on things all of the time. In the wild it would be nut shells, eggs, grit from dirt on the food etc. But when they forage on our soft garbage, they have to find anything and everything they can to chew on to keep their teeth worn down. So anything semi-hard but still "chewable" is what they seek out. PEX is just one of many things that fits that bill.


Yes, you can remove the 2x3 stud wall.

There is 1) single top plate, 2) no plywood for shear wall construction, 3) no hold-downs for uplift or “racking” considerations, 4) the steel posts are close enough together to support 17 train locomotives (well, a significant load).

2x3’s are not used for structural walls.

Is that an adjustable cap on that steel post?


How to fix exposed rafter with termite damage?

No, the "by the book" way is to remove the beam all the way back to where there is no damage and replace it.  I doubt this is termite damage it is likely dry rot from a roof leak.  If your roof is NOT leaking then the dry rot will not continue to happen and in fact if the roof was ever redone it could have been leaking before and they just were lazy and decided 1 beam wouldn't be a problem if they even noticed it.
This is not uncommon in roofs.
In your case if the roof is not leaking you can safely ignore it until the roof wears out and needs to be replaced.  Then once they tear off all the shingles you can have them remove the boards from that section and then remove and replace the beam once the roof joists are exposed.  If it is just this one beam it's still safe since the roof isn't weight bearing (unless you live in an area where it snows heavily) but if you can get inside the attic and look at all the beams that would be good.


Your photo leaves a lot to be desired but this looks like multi-colored hexagonal SHINGLES instead of actual siding.
UPDATE: Your new photo is very helpful.  Clearly those are colored hexagonal asphalt shingles applied as siding.


How can I make sure my pex line is sloped so I can drain it?

If you have an air compressor you can plumb in a connector for an air line after the shuttoff valve for the line.

Then leave the faucet open at the end of the line and connect the air compressor with a pressurized tank. This will blow out the line and prevent freezing.

Good luck!


How can I protect existing fence pickets/rails from raised garden/lawn soil rot

As noted in this answer the only way to slow the rot is to avoid ground contact entirely (Note: Nothing will prevent rot - wood is a natural product and will, when exposed to the elements, eventually turn to dust no matter what protection is applied without continued maintenance, which will be difficult on the portions against dirt.)
You need to minimize/avoid contact between wood and dirt to slow the rot, and that leaves you with a few options:

Build up the dirt, but slope it down before it gets to the wooden fence
Build up the dirt within a retaining wall that keeps most of it from the fence
Cut the bottom of the fence to be ~1" above the dirt
Take down the fence, build up the dirt, rebuild the fence on top of the new elevation

There is no magic solution to having wood buried in dirt that will prevent/minimize rot. You could have tried some of the old creosote based wood preservatives, but those are highly toxic and have been banned in the US (and probably elsewhere). It was reasonably effective, but no longer available.
You could try a spar/marine varnish on the to-be-burried portion of the fence, but that will be rather expensive and who knows how long it will actually last.
You could just mound the dirt up against the fence, wait for it to rot out, then cut the pickets 1" above the ground once they've rotted out. (Effectively the 3rd option I present, but waiting for rot first instead of cutting first.)
Beyond that, expect accelerated rotting.


Can I make an improvised heating system that uses calcium carbide and water?

1983 Patent: Acetylene stove or heater uses Ca Carbide.
Seems to me that the water drippy thing could be hard to control over a long period. Plus, the wet residue is likely to annoy as well. If I could, I'd go with propane instead.


Do the abbreviations O, N, F mean anything on the electric meter terminals?

The answer awoke me at 4am: It's a three way switch.  N = Neutre (neutral).  O = Ouvert (Open, this circuit is open in the diagram), F = Fermé (Closed, this circuit is closed in the diagram).


Hot water running out, already replaced both heating elements and both thermostats

The most likely reason is a degraded/broken dip tube in the hot water heater. If this were the case, there would likely be little bits of plastic in your water, which perhaps could be seen  if you removed a faucet aerator. To replace the dip tube, the cold water inlet must be removed, and the new tube installed. One related cause is if the inlet and outlet of the water heater are swapped. If swapped, the cold water in the bottom of the tank is supplied to fixtures.

Another reason is an unintentional mixing of the hot water and cold water. It's possible that there is a broken faucet somewhere that allows the water to mix, providing lukewarm water.

I suggest also verifying that the hot water is reaching the proper temperature. If you drain a little bit of water from the tank, is it the proper temperature? If not perhaps the wiring is wrong, the thermostat is broken, or the thermostat is set to the wrong temperature.


What should I do about soaked particle board under my kitchen sink?

Remove cabinet door.
Fix leak.
Remove particle board and put a box fan blowing into the cabinet for at least 24 hours. Treat the floor under there with a mold killing cleaning spray. Put the fan back while you cut the new bottom. I would do it piecemeal before removing the face of the cabinet. Which you may have to because removing the face of a corner cabinet will only give you another 2 inches or so. You would have to pull the counter top and remove the top of the cab to get a full piece in there. You may need a support under the planks in the middle somewhere but it beats destroying your kitchen.


Should I make space for a new 50A breaker in a full panel or install a sub-panel?

I would start by putting a rather large subpanel as close as possible to it, probably whichever Siemens panel ThreePhaseEel recommends, or a CH or QO if space is an issue. 42+ space.   Position it with an eye toward rerouting the service wiring there.

Even before that, talk to the power company about upgrade options.  If a particular size is possible, get the subpanel with that main breaker, but don't sacrifice spaces to do it.

Short term, if the new subpanel is >=100A it doesn't need any main breaker at all, or even a main-panel breaker.  The main breaker in the main panel will protect it.  Use at least 100A wire to connect the panels, i.e. At least #3Cu or #1Al.  A reason to use cheaper Al on such a short run is the lugs will be aluminum.

Having a breaker in the main panel can be avoided with a lug-breaker, which snaps in like a breaker but has only lugs.

Now, at leisure, move one circuit at a time from the old panel to the new.  That's just to get away from those somewhat dodgy Challenger breakers. If wires don't reach, I typically put 4-11/16" square boxes at opportune locations to splice. Ideally metal conduit the rest of the way to the new panel, and THHN wire inside the conduit.  Ideally.

With all the circuits moved over, try to straightline the subpanel straight off the bottom (switched side) of the main breaker.

Alternately, if the power company's upgrade path calls for a new meter pan, get one with a main breaker.  Gut the old panel, using it only as a gutter, to the new subpanel, using wires rated for main breaker current.  If that's the plan, you can use a main lug subpanel instead of a main breaker one, saving some space.  42-space main lug CHs are not that big.


Just bought house with hairline diagonal crack from window

Probably just the house settling - could be due to:

Underlying soil conditions causing the house to rise or fall
Changes in seasonal humidity causing the window casing to shrink
Perhaps you didn't notice it until it got dark and cold so you're inside more
Moving in: if the house was empty, then filled with all your belongings, it can actually cause the house to settle.  Happened to my parents' house.

Probably not a serious structural issue (IANAL). If you patch it, make sure to use some reinforcing mesh to keep it from just cracking again.

Perhaps this question might also help.


Grout stain is certainly the easiest option I have tried. The one I used came in a pen form and I just coloured in all the grout one afternoon when the bathroom was dry. I wouldn't try it with damp grout as the absorption might be unpredictable.


How can I find places to nail/screw into walls of ICF (insulated concrete form) home?

I'm not an expert, but it sounds like you have what we have at our house, so I'll say what I know (and/or can reference).

From Wikipedia: "The forms are interlocking modular units that are dry-stacked (without mortar) and filled with concrete. The forms lock together somewhat like Lego bricks and serve to create a form for the structural walls or floors of a building."

In other words, no wooden studs.  Just plain ol' styrofoam.

If you're able to look at the top part of the wall, you might actually be able to see the protruding Lego brick-like top part of the interlocking structure.  This would also tell you just how thick the form is.

While Wikipedia says the form bricks are dry-stacked, it wouldn't surprise me if there were a little adhesive used between them (it kind of seems like a good idea, but it's possible the form manufacturers recommend against that for some reason).

As far as how they attached the drywall: just a bunch of screws, in our case.  It's also reasonable to use adhesive in addition, as long as it won't eat through the styrofoam (or other material), of course.  The styrofoam was actually surprisingly strong when I was drilling screws into it.  Given that they used somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 screws on the 4' wide floor-to-ceiling sheet of drywall, I have no concerns about it coming down.

There are electrical outlets and phone jacks on our ICF walls, and the lines and boxes are accommodated by carving out appropriate cavities.  That creates another factor to consider when drilling into the ICF wall.  Specifically: how straight are the channels that were carved out, and in which direction were they carved?  Did they use nail plates along the route?

Now, as far as attaching things to the wall securely is concerned... I doubt it would be equivalent to a stud in terms of support capacity, and I'm having trouble finding information on this topic online.  If the drywall is attached directly to the ICF, you won't have any cavity behind the wall to place a spreading-type anchor, so those are ruled out.  Of course, if you make the assumption that the wall is at least as strong as drywall on its own (indeed, I'd assume it's at least a little stronger), you can use a self-drilling drywall anchor (Lowe's has one branded "TOGGLER") and get plenty of capacity.  Plus, you can use them in any location (excluding wire runs, as noted above) without worrying about hitting a stud after you've bored a giant hole in the drywall.


How do I wire a new light fixture with a red wire?

Most often the red wire in a lighting circuit is a switch leg.  Very likely there is a black/white pair coming in from the panel, black/white/red going to the switch box, and then black/white continuing from the switch box to some other outlet.

If this is the case, the black is the hot wire from the panel and will be attached to one side of the switch, the red will be attached to the other side of the switch, and returns power to the light box when the switch is on.

Personally I would take things back apart and test it out with a meter to confirm, but you can also take off the switch cover and check which color wires are hooked up to it.  If it follows the pattern I described, then moving the black wire of your new fixture over to the red wire in the box should solve the problem.


Does the neutral wire float or go to the neutral bus on a sub panel?

No.  The grounded (neutral) wire should not float.
In a 120/240V single split phase system, a subpanel should be wired similar to this.

Main Service Panel
Notice that in the main panel the grounded (neutral), and grounding buses are bonded (electrically connected). This means that grounded (neutral), and grounding conductors of a branch circuit can be connected to either bus.
Subpanel
In a subpanel, the grounded (neutral) and grounding buses are not bonded. Which means grounded (neutral) and grounding conductors of branch circuits, must terminate at the appropriate bus.
Separate Building
If the subpanel is installed in a separate building, it might be supplied with a 3 or 4 wire cable, and there may or may not be a separate grounding electrode system installed. There are numerous factors that determine how a subpanel in a separate building is wired, which is beyond the scope of this answer.


Typically washers discharge into a standpipe, which extends 18"-42" above the trap weir. The plumbing can then continue on 5'-8' before there's a vent (5' for 1¼" pipe, 6' for 1½" pipe, 8' for 2" pipe).

References:

IRC Table P3105.1
IRC P2706.2


I've never dealt with the stuff, but I'd say if it's near the ridge line, remove whatever you have as a ridge cap, place the patch on top of the hole large enough to tuck under the ridge cap, and then replace the ridge cap.

If it's lower down, I think I'd patch it from the inside, and use silicone or some other sealant from above.

As for adhesives, my normal stand-by for this sort of thing (waterproof, gluing sheets together) is DAP contact cement, but the two pieces might not mate together well enough for that.  You could probably use a mastic, such as the roof cement they sell in caulk-gun tubes for dealing with flashing, although, it tends to be pretty ugly, so you might want to just use it to afix it, and then use silicone around the edges.  (I don't know if silicone would hold well enough for this on its own)


Should I replace a GFI in my kitchen that will not reset?

Assuming you mean you can't reset the GFI even when nothing is plugged into it: Yes, they can wear out and may need to be replaced. Obviously, turn off the power at the circuit breaker before removing this one and installing the replacement.

If you can reset it with nothing plugged in, then the problem is probably the appliance rather than the GFI. Get it repaired or get a replacement.


In general upgrading the wire is an acceptable solution, but you will probably also need to have new breakers at the laundry end of the wire.
You will need to put a new breaker box in the laundry at the end of the wire and have breakers for your three appliances there. there are probably rules about which parts of the room are allowed to have the breaker box.
Alternatively if your house has a three phase service you could just run two more lives in the conduit (from the other two phases), and share the existing neutral and ground wires, that's assuming there's room in the conduit for two more wires.


Why is fuel leaking from the carburetor on my generator?

On my generators I turn the fuel off and run the carb out of fuel for several reasons the first being a tiny pice of crud in the seat for the float valve would be impossible to detect in most cases even my Onan will leak like this some times so it’s a good idea to turn off the fuel, reason #2 when fuel is left in the carb the methanol eats up some of the seals and absorbs moisture, while doing this debris from the degraded rubber parts and fuel lines cause leaks. It is a good idea when done running your generator to remove the load and turn the fuel off letting it run until it dies this helps keep the carb clean and the only negative is you have to open the fuel valve and wait a minute for the bowl to fill up prior to starting. This also provides some additional cool down time for the alternator.


What is the best way to fix bleach stains?

Your carpet is now light tan, or used to be light tan?

Either way, the only thing I know of is to try to dye it back, and odds are, you're either going to dye more than you wanted (darkening the edges) or miss the edge ... either way, it's going to miss, and won't be 100% restored.

I'd consider rearranging the furniture (ie, hide it with a couch), or put a throw rug overtop if it's in the middle of the floor.

If it's in an area that's prone to issues, you can always replace just a section of the carpet with some other material -- at my mom's house we put some hardwood down just inside the back door where the cats liked trying to dig their way under a door, rather than replace the whole room.


When I was a kid, my much older brother heated the pool in his backyard by running a bunch of black painted pvc pipe to and fro on the fence, and then plumbed it into the filter system.