If you have clamping pliers, commonly called Vise-Grips, and you can get some bite on the head of the bolt, a solid grip will enable you to accomplish your objective.

Alternatively, cutting a slot in the head to accept a straight-blade screwdriver will work. If you cannot get to the head side conveniently, cutting a slot in the opposite end may also work. These slotting actions will require a steady hand on a hacksaw or the use of a hobby tool commonly called a Dremel tool, aka rotary cutter or rotary grinder.

Yet another non-destructive option, if the bolt is of sufficient length is to add two nuts to the threaded portion, tighten each one against the other and use a wrench to hold the bolt while turning the other nut as appropriate.


How to repair damaged fence to its original strenght

There's more than one way to join galvanized wire, and a few ways you can do this. Some are better than others:

Solder: you can use solder to join ends. This is cheap if you have the equipment, and can do it in the field
Cable crimps: you crimp pieces of softer metal around the cable(s) you are trying to join. This requires crimps and a crimping tool, you can sometimes get away with using a pliers but the right tool makes a reliable crimp
Saddle bolts or cable clamps: saddle bolts are threaded u shaped bolts with a metal 'saddle', the cable(s) are put between the u and the saddle, which is then clamped down using nut on the bolt's threads. Cable clamps use the same principle, just a different shape. These are pretty cheap and you can put them on using basic hand tools with no special equipment. This is the option I would use, I would use at least 2, 1 isn't always good enough

Now as for how to do it, you have 2 options:

Butt end connection: this is where you overlap the 2 ends and then fasten them together using one of the methods above. This method is quick, has less joins and needs less slack, however I would not recommend it in your case as it's weak. Your wire is under tension, and the force will always be pulling directly at the join
Looping the ends: each end is looped back on itself and clamped to itself, the wires are joined through the loops. This is strong as the loops bear the load, not the joins. If you don't have enough slack you can use a loop of wire or a tensioner to bridge the gap. This is the method I would use, it may need more joins but it will last


I want to connect rain shower head - how should I disconnect this plug?

There should be a brass or copper block above your ceiling that the piece you're trying to remove is threaded in to. Your picture is showing what appears to be an extended plug. That's not uncommon to see after a plumber roughs in a home. The entire "plug", brass and PVC, should come out and then you'll wrap the threads of your rain head with teflon tape and thread it into the brass/copper block in the ceiling.


How Safe is this 5-way ceiling lighting DIY install

Is the 10amp chocbloc sufficient for the load of 5* 42w halogen lights?

Yes, 5 x 42 W = 210 W, 210 W / 240 V = 0.875 A

  Is the 'manual' twist of 5*neutral 'blue' cabling from each arm safe twisted into a single 10amp chocblok connector?

Five is a lot. I'm surprised the fitting didn't provide a better way to unite them. The main issue is ensuring that the connection is tight and that enough of all wires are clamped under the screw. If in doubt you can use multi-way connectors such as Wago push-fit or lever-clamp connectors which have a separate position for each wire.

  Can I increase the risk by double insulating say the single Brown arm combine to live supply?

I'm sure you mean decrease the risk but I don't understand what you mean by double insulating.

For general lighting applications there isn't any need to apply insulating tape so long as everything is done correctly.

The live and neutral wires are adequately insulated and you shouldn't trim more than the minimum insulation needed to fully insert the wires into the connector. After doing so, there should be no exposed copper, the screw heads in the connector are protected by the plastic within which they are recessed, there should be no danger of metal to metal contact.

Any metalwork in the light fitting that can conceivably come into contact with people should be connected to protective earth.


How many terminal bars N / PE do I really need?

First of all a warning. If you are not sure with working on mains then stay away from it. Furthermore for safety always remove the power from the incomming line by opening the corresponding breaker.

If you look good then you can see that the connective bar is separated into 2 parts. One part for (P)rotective (E)earth (yellow/green) and the other part for (N)eutral (blue).

You can use a insulated bar any way you like. In this kind of connection boxes a non insulated bar should only be used for PE(green/yellow) connections.


Get a flex duct connector like is used to join two sections of flex together.
Cut completely through at the tear.
Fit the union into the inner sleeve.
Tape inner sleeve to connector.
Pull insulation back over the joint and tape well with duct tape.
If you want to insure it not pulling apart screw through duct tape with sheet metal screws around both sides into the connector.
Another method very similar uses big zip ties to secure the insulation and vapor barrier. And screws and tape to secure inner sleeve to connector
This video shows it very well.


Low voltage LEDs fluctuate from full to half to off and repeat

I see several problems.
Provenance
A quick google of the terms you gave lead me to a quality power supply, but straight to eBay/Amazon for the lights proper. The Amazon items were "cheap Cheese junk" that lacked even a UL listing to assure product quality.
The cheapie lights also came with "pierce the wire" type connectors that jab a spike into the wires.  These fail very quickly.  These appear to be unique to the halls of China; I don't see any "spike" connectors from any reputable vendors.
Voltage drop
I checked a voltage drop calculator for what happens to 12V at 8 amps over 22 feet of #16 wire.    It says you get 1.41 volts of drop.  Leaving 10.59 volts at lamp 1.
Now assuming it's 8' from lamp 1 to lamp 2, that wire needs to carry 7 amps. Plugging that in, it's telling me 0.45 volts; totalling 1.86V so far.  So at lamp 2, voltage is 10.14V.  Continuing to assume 8' between lamps...
Wire from lamp 2-3 carries 6A, dropping 0.39V.  Lamp 3 sees 9.75V.
Wire from lamp 3-4 carries 5A, dropping 0.32V.  Lamp 4 sees 9.43V.
Wire from lamp 4-5 carries 4A, dropping 0.26V.  Lamp 5 sees 9.17V.
Wire from lamp 5-6 carries 3A, dropping 0.19V.  Lamp 6 sees 8.98V.
Wire from lamp 6-7 carries 2A, dropping 0.13V.  Lamp 7 sees 8.85V.
Wire from lamp 7-8 carries 1A, dropping 0.06V.  Lamp 8 sees 8.79V.
A bump in wire size to something like #12 would probably make a big difference here.  Alternately, going with smaller lights would work.  A top rate kit made by Volt includes #14 wire for 5W lamps.


What acceptable alternatives to trickle vents are available?

Since I am retired, this was something I had not heard of. It took me about 10 minutes to get a handle on the situation. Basically, it is an attempt to put a band aid on a problem the building regulations have caused. They seem to be using information supplied by ASHRAE, or the people that design, and influence sales of heating and air conditioning products, (In the name of our health), to make these regulations.

If you do not have a super tight insulated new home, or are building one, it probably has enough inherent ventilation that you don't need trickle vents, if replacing windows in an older house. (?Why would you be replacing them in a new one?) I would agree they may be a good idea,--- if the windows came designed with them.

I agree with you Iggy, I think bathroom fans and maybe kitchen ones, VOC, humidity operated, would be good, but those rooms need to be isolated to prevent that moisture from easily getting to other rooms. While it may be important, requirements designed by those with the most to gain from them, should not be the only ones considered for building regulations, and laws are not supposed to be made retroactive.

Yes archess, you should indeed contact your building inspector and ask if you are required to comply, what alternatives are allowed, and most importantly, to explain why.


Why do I measure low, varying phase leg voltage which fluctuates with load?

RED ALERT! Call the power company TONIGHT and report an outage

You have, at the very least, a lost phase.  And quite probably a lost neutral.

Now, in most of Europe, this would mean a 100% outage, since their power drops only have 2 wires.  America uses 3, which we get a lot of weird effects when 1 wire breaks.

The weirdest effect is a lost neutral, where both hot legs are still hot, but the 120V voltage wanders all over the place high and low - the two legs adding up to ~240V, but one higher and one lower.

The lost neutral is an immediate and imminent threat to your safety.  95% of the time, the problem is on the service drop between your meter and the pole/transformer, since that's the one flapping around in the breeze and accumulating metal fatigue. That's why to call the power company straightaway.  The last time this happened to me, the PoCo was out in an hour, on a Sunday, after saying they'd be delayed due to another emergency. Fixed not only our complex, but a weak hot wire on our neighbor, too.

The other possibility is a lost hot, which I discuss at length here.  In that case, the other hot will appear to work, but be weird and weak. What's happening is a 240V appliance (like the water heater) has cycled on, and is effectively shorting the two poles through its high resistance heating element.  So your 120V appliances are now in series with the water heater, all trying to share 120V.  That may work well enough for the water heater to reach its high setpoint and cycle off, and that leg will go dead again  Don't do that, though.

Meanwhile, shut off the main breaker!

You may shut off all breakers and turn the main back on, and then do one of the following:

turn on ONE 120V load only (no breakers with double width or tied handles) e.g. Furnace or fridge.  It may not work.
If you know panel topology reasonably well (the weird way that poles are striped across the breakers), you can turn on 120V loads on one pole OR the other, never both... but all 240s must be off.


What's this black handle on my fireplace? It moves up and goes left

I found this 5 year old unanswered question because I'm in search of a similar question for my own fireplace insert except that I'm looking for a rod.  I bet this is the damper control lever (yes, not the same damper as the one at the top center of the stove.  This damper should be in the in the flue- and I bet this little rod both moves and pulls out (pulls out to close the damper and moves to hold it closed).  I should add that the damper itself (the disk) will never completely close, it's missing approx 1/4 top of the circle where the joint is, probably for safety purposes so perhaps it is for gas as well.

These inserts are so old, mine is a 1970 Fisher Grandmother stove and boy is this a wild goose chase!


Caulking Baseboards - Suddenly Spiders Appear

Blocking their hiding spaces and places with air flow probably displaced them. With the area sealed up they won’t have food traveling that area so they are probably getting away from the smell and looking for new places to reside.


Fluidmaster 400A fill valve: very slow toilet tank fill

Cleaning out the valve should help. On the other hand, a new 400A fill valve is about $7.50 and it will take you under 5 minutes to replace your existing one (water off, slide the retainer ring up, pull the old valve, throw it away, put the new valve down at the same height, click the retainer ring back down, re-attach tube to overflow, water on).

I'm pretty sure any pro would just replace the valve to save time.


How to GFCI protect bathroom lighting circuit

Based on the description you've provided in your comment. You should be able to install a combination GFCI switch device in the first bathroom (electrically closest to the breaker box), which will provide GFCI protection to the light and the rest of the circuit. Install the GFCI switch combo as follows:

All grounding conductors left off for simplicity. Make sure all devices are properly grounded.

Connect the grounded "neutral" (white) conductor from the feeding cable, to the silver LINE terminal of the GFCI.
Connect the ungrounded "hot" (black) conductor from the feeding cable, to the brass LINE terminal of the GFCI.
Connect the grounded "neutral" (white) conductor from the cable going to the light, to the silver LOAD terminal of the GFCI.
Connect the switched (red) conductor from the cable going to the light, to one of the switch wires of the GFCI using a twist-on wire connector.
Using a twist-on wire connector, connect the other switch lead from the GFCI to the ungrounded "hot" (black) conductor from the cable leading to the light, and a short bit of black wire.
Connect the other end of the short bit of black wire (from the previous step), to the brass LOAD terminal on the GFCI.
Appropriately connect all grounding conductors.


Do I need to feed a subpanel with a breaker, or can I use subfeed lugs?

If the wire size from the sub panel is the size that the main breaker in the panel being fed from you don't have to have the breaker but this means if you have a 200 a main breaker in that panel the wire ampacity will need to be that large. Most subs are smaller and it saves $ to install a breaker and feed the sub with smaller wire. Not sure about the comment on not electrocute the line man, is this for a generator or photovoltaic system? I don't see that in the question.

Edit to clarify from comment.
A 125 amp main panel with a 125 amp main braker can direct feed anything larger than 125 A with 2/0 since 2/0 at 75 column is rated for 175a. The run between panels in my area need to be in Ridgid metal conduit because I was replacing the original panel. Some AHJ will limit the distance the panels can be seperated if this is the case. I have done this several times when preparing to replace the original panels (60 & 100 amp to 200) In one case the AHJ did require a 125 amp breaker in the sub, until the service was replaced I thought this was silly because the main breaker in the main panel is still the limiting factor. I did use large enough pipe so when I was ready to convert the service I just had to pull new feeder wire to the meter base so power to the house was only off for a few minutes. Green tag and final prior to meter connection since everything else was already run.


Fix puppy chewing damage on corner of veneer cabinets

Not easy to make “invisible” joints to the surface.
So, what about adding brass corners to all corners to cover the damage.
As a bonus, they may dissuade the puppy as well.


Polyurethane can be drilled with a common high-speed twist drill. It seems as though your issue is more related to the shape of the surface rather than the material.

To stop a bit from "walking" you should be using a punch or awl to create a small divot at the intended drill location. It may help to start with a much smaller bit size, then increase bit size in step until reaching needed hole diameter.

Your issues with difficulty drilling adjacent holes, and "incline... from drilling angle (sic)" are related to the method. The piece should be clamped securely when drilling, so it cannot move, and you should be using a drill press (or at least a drill guide) if precise drill angle and depth are needed.


Is it possible - setting thermostat based on a separate thermometer

You're referring to a differential thermostat control, which I believe is fairly standard on solar water heaters:

  In active systems using pumps,
  whenever the collector is hotter than
  the storage tank, the pump should be
  on and the system circulating. When
  the tank is hotter than the collector,
  the pump should be off. This function
  is performed by either a differential
  thermostat control system or the use
  of a PV-powered pump. The differential
  thermostat controller compares heat
  sensor readings from the storage tank
  and collectors and switches the pump
  accordingly.

http://homepower.com/basics/hotwater/#ControlsComponent


Can I use a 1/4 turn valve in place of multi turn valve for toilet?

Yeah nothing wrong. You could use either or. Only difference between quarter turn and multi turn is the actual turn method. Quarter turns require to go a “quarter of the way of a full turn”. Multi turns requires continuous turns. Depending on what type of pipe you have coming up is the most important. Not all shut off valves will work for each other. And most sizes are 1/2x3/8. But there is also 1/2x1/2


Replacing Ceiling Fan/Light with light only wiring mystery

When someone does a light fixture replacement with switches involved and has a problem, it is usually because they reconnected the white wire that feeds power to a switch back to the other whites thinking it is a neutral.

Then they connect the black to the hot feed throw the switch and it trips the breaker because it is now a dead short.

When using cable to feed switches and return a switch leg, the proper practice is to feed the white wire hot to the switch and return the black wire to the light from the switch. Then (and this is the part many people don't do) you are supposed to re-identify the white wire as some other color. Black tape or red paint or something permanent. I like to use blue tape since you don't see blue in residential wiring. This show the next person that this wire is a switch feed NOT a neutral.

Sounds like the red is a hot feed from the panel that powers the whole circuit. If you are testing for "hot" with a no-contact tester you can get false positives that are from induced currents. You need a basic electrician's voltage tester.

You may have to take all the wiring apart and methodically identify each cable and conductor. Then plan how to reconnect the wiring to accomplish your goal.

Good luck!


Dimmer switch is buzzing at one location but not at another

First let me just say, that I noticed that you did not ask, How do I stop a dimmer switch from humming?, but rather WHY is it buzzing (especially, here- not there).

Essentially, your dimmer is also creating or acting like a speaker, because it is physically causing air to vibrate, which is detected by your ear... in other words, sound is created by moving air back and forth. A speaker is made by inducing a magnetic field in an object (like a coil or a bulb filament) which exerts a physical force upon the (induced) object causing it to move and by default, move the air. The range of human hearing is 20 to 20,000 Hz and the frequency of the electricity in a residence is 60 Hz.

The reason it is happening in the dimmer is the same reason as the light bulb; some piece of the dimmer or a neighboring conductor is physically vibrating.

Why it is only in the one spot has to do with something called harmonics... and there is a long physics lecture involved. But in short, harmonic distortions happen because like-waves are additive, meaning that electric wave of similar frequecies (and amplitudes) will add together. The light bulb in the bedroom (or perhaps of the fan motor) and the dimmer are acting like tuning forks each causing amplification (or resonance of waves) in each other and the result is induced power which is strong enough to cause physical movements, and thus, audible feedback.

Of course, from the other discussion about how to stop it, the answer was to change the bulb (that's acting like a tuning fork- not mentioned).


In order to pull new new wiring with existing wiring, the circuit would have to be in conduit. Assuming you residence is like most, your system is more likely to be Romex-type cable (NM). If this is the situation it can't be done because the NM is stapled to the framing. So if you talk to the contractor you might ask him about the easiest way to achieve your task.

Hope this helps.


What is the best way to deal with wall tie failure?

Let me first say, being originally from the UK my understanding of "wall tie" might be different from your particularly definition/situation.

"The wall is brick on the outside and block on the inside" that to me describes Cavity Wall construction ie the outer and inner leaves of brickwork/blockwork are tied together with wall ties, normally spaced at 450mm centres vertically & 900mm centres horizontally (spaced differently at openings).

How does the surveyor know the wall ties are failing?

Are the walls bowing in or out or are the walls cracking?

See if this helps, How to Replace Wall Ties

If the above link does not help &/or I have got the wrong end of the "wall tie" stick, please post back with any additional information you may have.


Does anyone have experience with small heat-recovery air exchangers?

Due to the grease and other unwanted fumes being exhausted this is not a good idea for a range hood in the kitchen. You would be surprised at how easily grease builds.


Mixing 18awg wire and 16awg wire on a ceiling fan installation

Yes the 16-gauge will work just fine.  Make sure your connections are well insulated.  P.


How can I best seal this gutter to the flat rubber roof of my garage?

You can seal that gap quite effectively with a product called Eternabond - it's very popular in the RV world to seal roof seams, vents, windows, etc.  Simple to work with (it's basically like a roll of tape), waterproof and very durable.

Eternabond Website

Good source for Eternabond


Replace Tork 1101 timer with smart switch

Go for it

You should be able to get a deep single gang "handy" box and fit it to the nipple in place of the existing timer enclosure, then fit whatever smart switch into that box that you wish, given that you're only trying to switch ~150W of load.  Note that the red wire is your always-hot and the blue your switched-hot, according to how the current timer is connected, with white being the neutral of course.


This website has a good explanation of hydrostatic forces on a dam surface. You could build your wall with a submerged lip to help counteract the moment applied by the water pressure on the vertical face of the wall.

Image from TheConstructor.org

I did some quick calculations and got the following:

So to sum up my incoherent scribblings, assuming a 30 lb cinder block holding back 8" of water and a coefficient of friction between the ground and the blocks of 0.4 (which I think is conservatively low), the blocks will not tip, but they will be pushed backwards by the hydrostatic force.

Reducing the water level to 6" results in the wall being able to withstand the hydrostatic force by a small margin. Even so, you'd be risking high water conditions after a heavy rainfall destroying your wall. It will need reinforcement. You could do that by pouring concrete into the voids and increasing the weight of each block to greater than 46 lbs. You could also drive a rebar stake on the inside of each block against the side holding back the water.

NOTE: I did quick calculations and made a lot of assumptions. This answer is an estimate and should not be considered professional advice. (Translation: Please don't get pissed off at me and track me down if your pond floods your yard.)


Installing eco smart 27 with sub panel breaker box

You size the sub panel feeders to the size of the over current protection you are using to protect your subpanel. For example if you are installing a 60A supanel then you would install a 60A breaker in the main panel. Then using NEC Table 310.15(B)(16) you would find that a #6 cu in the second column or a #4 AL in the fifth column is capable of carrying 65A so you would use those conductors.

Note that your Eco smart 27 can actually carry up to about 113A. Since it is SMART it probably only allows a certain amount of current depending on your flow, but it is not SMART enough to know how much current is being used by the remaining loads in your dwelling. It could overload the service.

Rather than feed through your panel causing unnecessary strain on your electrical system.  I would recommend you install a separate enclosed breaker by you main disconnect and feed you water heater from it. You are allowed to have multiple main disconnects per the NEC 230.71.

Finally I would check with someone and make sure your service is large enough to provide the adequate power for your new load. It could be your AHJ, utility company or a trained professional.

Hope this helps and good luck.


Why is boiling hot water coming out of every faucet, and even the toilet?

May I ask you to temper or clarify one adjective? Is this water literally BOILING hot (hotter than the tanks) or only SCALDING hot (as hot as the tanks, about 120*F)? If the tanks are also used for heating, then perhaps 180*F?

If the tanks are used both for heating and domestic hot water, then you have several large tempering valves, correct? These tempering valves mix hot and cold water together to achieve the industry-standard maximum 120*F for domestic hot water.

You're on city water, surely? High pressure, enough to push water to the top of the building, with pressure regulators on each floor?

This is the sort of thing that might happen if a tempering valve fails or is misadjusted, AND one or more of the tanks has developed a large air bubble. It's more likely to happen during periods when the municipal water supply pressure falls (because other nearby buildings are also using a lot of water). The hot-water tanks have been pressurized by high municipal pressure, including the one with the bubble, which makes it into a large surge tank. When municipal pressure falls, pressurized hot water backflows through the failed or misadjusted tempering valve into the cold-water system, where it's delivered to faucets, toilets, etc.

A really good plumber should be able to track down the source, but it'll take some time. They'd have to carefully measure the temperature of the pipes in the pipe chases, following the hottest pipes towards its hottest end until they come to the hottest spot in the cold-water system - that'd be the tempering valve in question. It'd be BEST if they could work while the occupants of the affected units were not in the building, so the water to their units would remain pretty static... making measurement easier.

The only other cause I can think of would be backflow (intentional or accidental) through a bathtub or laundry outlet, where hot and cold could be mixed without actually dispensing water - in the case of a bathtub (which has much larger water connections than a faucet or toilet), it'd require that the spout be blocked while both hot and cold were turned on. This would allow hot to backflow into the cold-water system.

I'm leaning very hard towards the tempering-valve problem, though, because otherwise we're talking about collaboration between numerous occupants in different units or a really odd set of coincidences.


Replacing Bathroom vent, heat light combo and wiring is weird

Not counting the ground wires, you have four insulated conductors. One could be the supply hot, each of the others could be switched hot leads. The presumption would be that the neutral is in the ceiling box and not present in the wall box. Totally possible. If this is true, please mark the switched hot leads appropriately.


Is this an appropriate drain design for adding a shower?

Except as noted here, it all appears correct if I'm understanding your drawing correctly. The shower does need its own AAV, otherwise the resulting trap arm appears to be too long. Thus you should not eliminate either vent.

Changing the toilet venting will help immensely, provided it is done right. The 3x3x2 wye must be installed rolled up 45 degrees so that toilet waste cannot enter the vent line. Do not reduce the 2" line to 1.5", carry 2" up to a larger AAV.


Plywood subfloor won't screw down in a trailer home

When you say "bite down" do you mean:

It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or
It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?

If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).

If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.

I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to  found here Home Depot link to the example picture

Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.

Hope this helps!


A/C blower stays on all the time but heat and cold work when thermostat sends signal; how to fix?

What happens when you disconnect the G thermostat wire at the unit?  If your problem goes away the problem is either the thermostat or the wires. If it goes away reconnect the wire and disconnect the G wire at the thermostat. If the problem comes back it is in the wire if it stays fixed it is in the thermostat. If neither works it is in the package unit. Some units run the fan to alert you to a problem but usually that is all that will work. Older units may have a separate blower relay but most newer ones will have the relay in the circuit board. You didn’t say if this has always happened or if it just started. If it has always been that way the motor may have been directly wired to line voltage. Maybe the relay broke and they didn’t want to replace the circuit board? Or maybe someone just wanted continuous fan.


Can you get an "optionally cordless" or "hybrid" drill?

The main reason there is not a hybrid is the motor voltage. Corded drill use motors that run on 120 volts AC, (supplied by the grid). Cordless drills use motors that run on a lower voltage, usually between 12 and 18 volts DC (supplied by the batteries). A standard motor cannot run on both high voltage and low voltage. It also cannot run on both AC and DC.

To have a convertible or hybrid unit, it would have to run using a low voltage motor. There are three basic approaches to this that come to mind:

The unit could run on its batteries all the time. When the cord was attached, it would merely be charging the battery.  The problem with this is that the discharge rate is much higher than a safe charge rate, so all this gains you is a little longer runtime until the battery runs out. You would also get no increased torque.
The unit could run on the 120 volt AC voltage when plugged in, which would have to be both reduced to the lower voltage of the motor and would have to be converted to DC. This would require a serious transformer and circuitry that would add significant weight and bulk to the unit (that is what is in most of the brick type power supplies and battery chargers). The transformer would still be there when you went cordless.
It might be possible to build the transformer into a unit that plugs in like a battery and has a cord out the back end. But this would make the drill significantly heavier and bulkier than a conventional corded drill, a step backward in the evolution of tools.

The disadvantages to these approaches make it impractical. There also may be limitations that have to do with torque, speed, etc. for low voltage motors, but that is beyond my knowledge.


Do I have to staple romex to the studs behind the wall?

It's not up to code to leave the wire free. Stapling it to the center of the stud ensures that a nail for something like a picture won't hit the wire (as long as you know this code and don't try to drive a long nail right next to a stud). No one but yourself is likely to ever know this is wrong, and given the age of the home, it's sure to have a lot of other code violations under today's codes since they change over time.

So to answer your question, my recommendation is to install the staples near the top plate, the J-box, and every 3 feet or so in the middle. But I wouldn't lose much sleep if I heard that someone didn't do this in your situation. Just make sure you don't have any hidden junction boxes or connections made outside of a box since that would be a much bigger issue. And also, don't overload any circuits by adding too many outlets.


How do I install a water line for a refrigerator in a galley kitchen?

Sure, the water is under pressure, it'll get there. As far as static pressure loss, the entrance and exit are all that matter, the in between makes no difference. Friction loss is an issue with long distances, but ice makers and dispensers have very low demand, so unless your house pressure is very low already, it shouldn't be an issue. The only real drawback would be the appearance if you have no convenient ways to disguise the run.


Which size wire I need to run 220 volt breaker for a tanning bed

Assuming all the terminals are rated for 75°C, 4/0 conductors should handle 220 amperes @ 240 volts.

If the tanning bed doesn't actually pull 220 amperes (which I'm sure it doesn't). You should check the nameplate or manufacturer's installation instructions, to determine the actual electrical requirements.


How do I troubleshoot a Kenmore HE washer with an f-21 error?

f21 - Long drain time - Pump was plugged

ya we found the problem, it was a large chunk of cloth, an eye glasses cleaning cloth about 5" x 5" balled up and stuck in the drain pump exit hole, surprised something this large found its way down there


Is untreated aluminium suitable as an LED heat sink?

The way you screw the U is to drill a hole the size your screws need through BOTH sides, then a hole big enough for the screwhead/screwdriver through one side, following/enlarging the first hole, only on one side.

Or just the screw-sized hole through both and screws 30mm longer.

Or angle the mounting holes & screws into the back from the open side of the U.

I doubt you need to "treat" it with anything.


A/C tune-up: "Condenser fan motor drawing high amperage"

If a motor is drawing a very high amperage it is not unreasonable to advise a repair.  If the motor cannot be cleaned, or it has been cleaned and still drawing high it may show an imminent failure.  So you could replace the motor while they are at the home, usually with no additional labor, or maybe have an emergency call in the future where you will now be charged labor in addition to the motor.  It is worth checking around with other customers of theirs to see if they are trustworthy or not.  Hard to tell off one diagnosis.


Improve the look and durability of wood siding

The wood appears solid, near as I can tell, and I don't see signs of peeling of the old finish. I'd simply apply a quality siding/fence stain that's tinted dark enough to mask the varying hues in the board and that coordinates with your home's exterior. I wouldn't attempt to scrape it due to the likelihood of damaging the grain, but maybe hit it gently with a nylon bristle brush to remove any loose material.

Note that "stain" is a broad term, and by specifying a siding/fence stain I'm implying that the product is also a sealer. Interior stains, by contrast, are not intended as a sealer or finish coat.


Does airflow work this way between rooms?

I could not recommend your strategy.  This is not how we comfortable warm a room. You may need to break your single loop into two loops or even three loops. Almost never would we connect an entire house on a single loop.  The first radiator would be too hot and the last would be too cold.
The heaters that are in each room should heat that room or the heater is not sized properly or the piping connecting it to the boiler is not sized and or designed properly.  P.


How much will a board-on-board (shadow board) fence reduce the wind load?

This is an interesting read:

http://www.justanswer.com/structural-engineering/6escy-does-shadow-box-fence-significantly-less-windloading.html

The engineer says that there is no reduction in surface area, and the gap between boards isn't significant enough to significantly alter the air flow.  He also says that in reality, there may be a minor reduction in the wind loading, but not enough to make it worthwhile.

You may want to consider a Louvred fence (angle board fence).  However, these do not provide much privacy in the one direction, so you will want to angle the boards away from any nude sunbathing areas.


Problem with NPT threads on dual check valve?

Sounds like the threading machine was set a bit two large, many universal dies are adjustable. My Ridgid 535 I have to set the adjustment for just under the size marked on the gauge to get proper sized threads. You may be able to take the pipe to a plumbing supply store that can recut the threads. If a fixed jaw die is used the threads need to be cut the full length of the cutting die to get the proper taper. Usually the female threads are cut with a die if not deep enough the same problem can happen.


Do I need to do any sort of mold mitigation after a bathtub leak damaged a ceiling?

Probably not. One-time floods dry out quickly enough that there isn't really a chance for much to grow. Persistent/repeated moisture, over an extended period, is far more likely to cause trouble.


Removing Hose Attachment on Kohler Kitchen Faucet

In your second pic, the white clip at the top appears to be the release.  I can see an O-ring inside (through the plastic) just below that level, so release the clip and you should be able to pull the white plastic part down.


How to make room for a taller electrical panel with a vent pipe underneath

I would go with option 5 and maybe combined with option 2. First I would get rid of the split bus panel (They are no longer legal for a reason). Second I would install a two or even three section panel. This are not sub-panels the first panel has an MCB and then the other panels are lugged from bus to bus with a full size conductor.

You will be able to find these from a wholesaler as they are not a stock item.

Good Luck.


A good place to start is the motor. With the power off, disconnect or unplug the leads to the motor. Then turn on the power and see if the breaker trips. If it doesn't, then the motor is the problem, check the winding for continuity. If is does trip, keep working back toward the main connection till you find the fault.


How can I level a part of a concrete floor in preparation for installing a washing machine?

Instead of temporary forms, make permanent ones. Cut a 2x4 in to a wedge shape, apply a thick bead of silicone down the middle of the underside, and screw them down with masonry screws. Once the silicone sets,  fill your forms with cement. Now you have a nice level permanent pad for your machines.


Add expansion joints on garage floor - too late?

You can cut expansion joints with something like this:

This is a walk-behind concrete saw that can be rented at most rental centers (I know that home depot has them).

After the joints are cut, fill them with a good polyurethane caulking.

I would wait until after you cut the joints before filling the existing cracks, as it's likely the work you're doing with the saw will result in vibration or "abuse" of the floor and might widen existing cracks.


Need neutral out at my well house but only have 220 v

I think the question is what can I do without running a new line?

My question is do you have a grounding wire with the 220V? Because if you don't you are going to have to ground that circuit also.

Other than that you could set a small panel, split your circuits and add a buck transformer to provide you with 120V from your 220V feeder, and your going to have to ground one secondary side of the line. If you are using an autotransformer configuration the ground should be on the isolated phase of the secondary.

If all of this is a little much experience wise, I would recommend you contact a licensed electrician.

Good luck.


Can I run electrical wiring through basement ceiling joists?

The general guidelines:

Don't notch a joist.  (it's legal under the correct circumstances, but don't consider it until you have no other choice.)
Don't drill a joist near the ends.  (how near is near?  Stick to the middle third and be safe. )
Only drill on the center-line of the joist. (This is the area under least stress).
keep your holes less than 1/3 the height of the joist.  A 3/4 inch hole for romex is fine under almost any circumstances.

These aren't the rules, these are a set of guidelines more restrictive than the rules, that you can quickly and easily work with in the field.  If you want to work outside these guidelines, then consult the local building code.


Yeah, that wasn't very smart of them. Fixing the stucco is likely a bandage for the issue they created here.

You'll have to move the vents and then sister a beam on both sides of the cut. First, get two construction jacks to raise the beams back to level. Next, sistering involves buying some new boards that are the same size as the cut ones. Then you construction adhesive the new boards and pass bolts through all 4 boards to hold them together. You'll probably want to fill the void the duct work left as well.

It's worth consulting with a structural engineer to ensure nothing else is wrong.


How do I go about fixing an apartment buzzer?

I would report it to maintenance/landlord, it isn't something you installed to the unit so it isn't your responsibility to repair it.

Plus, the issue isn't even necessarily at the end in your unit, there could be a problem with the button at the front door, wiring issue between, etc.

Typically to test wiring issues you need access to both ends as you will need to loop one end and test conductivity from the other.

Aside from if the buzzer device itself went out, I'm not sure what you could fix on just your end, and that would require a part replacement that you don't need to pay for.


Can I have a shared exhaust flue for a high efficiency furnace and tankless water heater?

In answering @Harper-ReinstateMonica's question in the comments, I stumbled across something on page 12 of the manual which states "never common vent this appliance with another appliance or use a vent which is used by a solid fuel appliance."

So it looks like it common venting with a tankless condensing water heater would be generally unsafe, is not recommended by the manufacturer, and may be against code.


How can we dry out a soaked water heater (and restore a novice plumber's dignity)?

If you have a wet vacuum cleaner with a slotted attachment, use that first to suck up pooling water and very wet insulation. Then pull out as much of the wet insulation around both elements as you can. If it rips, that's OK because you can add it back when it dries out.
If the area around the heating elements and wiring is dry and no water is dripping or running out the bottom, you can reconnect the elements and turn on the breaker and go back to hot showers. Even if the insulation is still damp away from the elements and wiring, you'll be OK. If you're stuffing towels in between the tank and outer casing through the openings where the elements are or doing any type of drying out the inside, turn off the breaker while you're working on it. If you've got a fan you can place in front of the water heater, do it.


How can I fix low water pressure in one shower?

I was able to fix the low water pressure issue by slightly opening the valve stops.

I was able to fix the vibration issue by finding a procedure online to empty my water lines.


It might be worth checking out the subfloor if you can get access to it in case that is what is not holding up to weight instead of the joists.

Otherwise, I know in your comment you stated that you don't have the joists exposed, unfortunately, I don't know of a way to resolve the issue without exposing them as anything you tried to do at the floor level would just be adding weight.

If you don't feel your joists are up to snuff, you can reinforce them by laminating them.

You would get additional boards of appropriate size to fit snugly next to the joists, then use an adhesive and screw the boards to the joists.

Make sure you are getting the additional wood over your load bearing walls, otherwise again you are just adding weight to the situation.

Remember though, even if you are going to make it a DIY project, structural work is a big deal and you should at least consult a contractor/architect and make sure you get proper permits and inspections.

You can save yourself the money on the labor, but don't skimp on the planning.


For my window, what's the best way to seal and insulate?

Theres alot to be left desired by this installation. First of all it looks like your in the city and installed into a masonry opening. By the way your window is resting hard on the masonry sill it looks like the installation is what we refer to as brick to brick. Basically your window fits snug around the brick with maybe a quarter inch perimeter gap. Typically when you have this type of installation you would waterproof the back up masonry jambs which is usually brick or a concrete masonry unit with a perm a barrier applied on a primer. S100 sealant would be applied to the masonry sill and a sill pan would go on top of that. The perm a barrier would then drape into the sill with the vertical sections of perm a barrier being terminated with s100 sealant to prevent the perm a barrier from peeling away from the masonry. The idea is the perm a barrier diverts water that gets passed your caulk on the exterior into your sill pan and keep it from getting inside your house. If you cant strap to the masonry then a buck could be built in the pocket and the window could be anchored to the buck providing the buck was properly anchored. Either way a backer rod would be applied to the exterior perimeter about a quarter inch depth and sealant like a sika flex or np1 around the perimeter. Sometimes they leave a couple of 1 inch gaps at the sill to let water caught by the sill pan leak out. On the interior they could insulate around the window with bat insulation or low expansion spray foam although brick to brick openings usually have to much of a gap to spray foam. If I am wrong and this is within frame then just seal the exterior of the new window to the exterior of the old and spray foam in between the two windows on the interior underneath whatever finish trim you will install. But before I would lift a finger I'd call the installer and ask why is my window inadequately anchored and not sealed on the exterior. Sounds like the job is unfinished.


You said both contractors "think" you have termites. They should know and be able to point out evidence like Tester101 pointed out. Both prices seem high for just basically spraying, especially since you don't have a slab that has to be drilled through. Near the front door, they could have just came in under the door.  If they are subterranean, their should be evidence of how they got in - typically mud trails coming up from dirt, up the piers and into the house. They can also look for any things that are conducive to attracting them, such as any boards (pressure treated or not) that are in contact with both the house and the dirt. Just because you have seen a few doesn't mean they are already in your walls. A less expensive spraying might take care of it. I would call another guy and see what he thinks.


Adding house wrap behind existing board and batten siding

If you are going to do this you might as well go all the way.  The housewrap is kind of like saying you are cold so you put on some underwear.   Might warm you up a little but being fully clothed is what you want.

If you are taking the siding off you should be throwing up (at least) 1" XPS rigid sheets.   I prefer to put the housewrap up first and then the sheets.   You tape the joints on each.

After that the only three issues are getting the old siding up, making sure you have enough siding up, and extending the trim around the windows.

Remove siding.
Caulk and spray foam gaps, especially near windows.
Add housewrap and tape.   Note this will not take away all air movement.
Add 2" XPS (1" is fine).   With you and two teenagers this is a 4-5 hour job - it cuts with utility knife and really only windows take any time.   Get peg nails and tape.  In the corners you put up 2x4 plus 1/2" plywood.   Your house will be 4" longer.   Cut out right to windows and doors.
Add blocking plus trim around windows and doors to match new house depth (this is a different question and way easier than you think.
Add siding back on.   Like I said you will need an extra 4" per side.  That is why I asked if you have extra siding.

The housewrap is nominal.   There is no way in hell I am taking off all of my siding to just housewrap.   Adding insulation is a long-term investment in the house.   In heating and cooling in southern IL (I am near you) you will pay for the extra costs in probably a year.


Plumbers putty - wrap the entire opening?

That sink drain is intended for use with a sink which has an overflow port.
If your sink does not have an overflow then this is the wrong drain and you should return it and get the correct one instead.
Trying to cover those holes is just asking for trouble of the wet kind.


All structures in the US State of Georgia are required to be constructed in accordance with the International Building Code series*...the requirements of საქართველო in the Caucuses were not immediately available online, unfortunately.

General requirements for foundations are stated in the applicable code. Site specific requirements depend upon multiple factors and require soils analysis as well as accounting for whatever wind, seismic, and snow loads the code anticipates for your local.

Be aware that exemption from a permit does not equate to exemption from the building code...nor as a practical matter does the issuance of a permit or passing inspections mean that a building actually meets code...and as always the code only specifies the worst legally acceptable building.


Mystery pipe under my sink and an intermittent sour smell

I seemed to have fixed this issue with a 90 degree elbow to fit over the pipe that comes out of the wall, and an Air Admittance Valve that I put on the other side of the elbow pipe.  No glue or tape was necessary.


What type of fastener should I use for a hollow wood door?

You'll need hollow door fixings - something like these

  Expanding wings grip securely in hollow doors, thin skin partitions, plywood and fibreglass.
  Ideal for the home, boat and caravan.


What size cable do I need for a replacement sub-panel?

For 70 amperes, you'll want to use 4 AWG copper or 3 AWG aluminum conductors. If the run is overly long, you'll want to compensate for voltage drop, by increasing the size of the conductors.

It looks like there originally wasn't an equipment grounding conductor included with the feeder, but you'll need one with the new feeder. If the original feeder was run through conduit, you might have to upgrade the conduit to fit the additional conductor.

If the original feeder was a cable assembly, and not individual conductors run through conduit. You should be able to replace it with 4-4-4-6 cable, from the local big box home improvement store.

When you install the equipment grounding conductor in the new panel, you'll want to make sure the neutral bus bars are isolated from the ground. And you'll have to terminate all the neutral and grounding conductors at the appropriate bus bars.

NOTE:

If you're replacing the panel, you might have to install AFCI and GFCI protection devices as required by code.
If you don't want to rewire all the circuits in the panel to add a grounding conductor, you might want to consider adding GFCI (and possibly AFCI) protection devices.


If you are tight on space left-right and can't afford the thickness of both jack & king studs you may be able to use a header hanger instead:

They are available from Simpson Strong-Tie & also Mitek in the USA at least.
Since the closet seems to be constructed in free space, it won't have any load-bearing function, so I don't think the lack of double studs is any problem from that point of view.


Can I run a sink drain horizontally through an adjacent cabinet?

The hot and cold lines are a fairly simple matter. What I would do is elbow 90 them and then run CPVC up a bit vertically and attach an inline cutoff (not a faucet cutoff, I'll explain why in a minute). I would attach maybe a 2x3 or 2x4 in the back to strap these to, and then elbow 90 them off again, just below the counter (might not be a bad idea to strap them to the counter for this step but CPVC should be rigid enough for this). Now run them at a 45 degree angle to the wall of the cabinet adjacent to the sink.

Once we reach the wall, cut holes, attach a 45 elbow to each line, then feed the pipes through and 90 elbow them down the wall on the opposite side. Or, if you prefer, you can 90 elbow them to the back, another 90 elbow to the left, and then 90 elbow down (this will require more complex running on your part). Finally, we put a faucet cutoff valve here, where the faucet will attach.

Why two cutoffs? Let's say you're loading something into the cabinet on the right and damage the piping somehow (it's very exposed). The extra cutoff will allow you to shut the pipe off there. Think of it as insurance against replacing the cabinet and anything in it.

The drain is a bit more difficult. Measure to the top of the drain pipe in the wall and take note if they ran 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" to there. The drain will have to take up some room on the back wall and will be in the middle unavoidably.

On your sink side, install the drain and P-trap (buy the whole kit with the wall tube). Now, on the wall adjoining the other cabinet in the back, mark 1/2" above where you measured the top of the drain in the other cabinet. We need the extra height to ensure the water flows down to the drain. Cut a hole here. Put a 45 elbow (if they installed 1 1/2" on the drain, here is a good place to transition from your 1 1/4" drain pipes) and then put your drain line (PVC or ABS) along the back wall. I'd aim for a 1/4" drop here, then 90 elbow and drop the rest of the way to your drain, putting a final 90 elbow here.

It's a lot of piecing and gluing, but it should be out of the way to maximize cabinet space. You should still have post of your cabinet space this way. I would not route them squarely in the middle


Gas fireplace is connected to the thermostat. Is there a way to disconnect?

I have run into this a couple of times.  If your situation is the same as mine, here is what's happening:  The fireplace operates on extremely low voltage. Because of this, it doesn't require much outside influence to induce a voltage in the stat wire to open the gas valve on the fireplace. If when the fireplace was installed, the installers ran the stat wire through the same drilled holes with line voltage circuitry wires, this is how it happens. Someone turns on a chandelier of the refrigerator starts. Those circuit wires experience a significant up tick in current flow.  That current induces an induction field all around the cable. If the stat wire falls within that field, the fireplace starts. It is like a mini transformer.


Is it a problem if a bookcase isn’t fully touching the floor?

I quite commonly install shims to support the front of (brand-agnostic) bookcases so they are leaning towards the wall, not away from it. Should be trivial to get a pack of shims  (thin wooden wedges - narrow wooden shingles) and properly support the front of this bookcase as installed.


Electric Radiant heating Vs Hydronic - What can I get?

After checking what type of instant water heater that is - since it's gas-fired, your operating cost will be MUCH lower with gas providing the heat than with electric resistance heat. Perhaps 30% (not 30% less, unless you have remarkably low electric rates and high gas rates) - typically near 30% of the cost of running electric resistance heat, for the same heat output.

Electric can be a shade thinner, but it's on the order of 1/4" .vs. 1/2". In either case, you should build an insulated floor on the slab unless the carport slab was insulated (very unlikley) or you'll be trying to heat the outdoors via an uninsulated slab, so the effective difference in height is none, really. Depending what you want for a floor, lay 2" XPS (extruded polystyrene insulation) and embed your tubes in gypsum cement or something like that on top of it, or buy pre-grooved subflooring to drop tubes into (and then pay attention where not to drive nails, or just don't choose a nailed down flooring.) There are a number of common systems for adding radiant heat on top of an existing floor.


2 black and 2 white wires, but one black & one white are on the same side of a switched receptacle

What's going on here?
The switched outlet is controlled by an old-style switch loop.
A "switch loop" is a spur line that goes to the switch (and nothing else).  It has 2 wires: always-hot, and switched-hot.  As you can guess, switched-hot is hot when you want the lamp to be on.
Today switch loops must be /3 cable, and  you use black for always-hot and red for switched-hot, which works out pretty nice.  Historically, switch loops used /2 cable. When you do that, Code requires you use the white wire for always-hot.  That is to make it more obvious that it has been re-tasked to be a hot wire.
However, Code also requires that a white wire used this way  be re-marked by wrapping it with black tape (or other methods).  That wasn't always required.
That means the black wire is the switched-hot.
To aid newcomers, I strongly recommend obtaining both black and colored electrical tape (also some wire nuts and pigtails should be part of your personal "kit"). You must mark the white wire with black tape.  I also advise marking the black wire with red tape, so it is more clear what is going on.  I'm not saying this because you're novice; I do it.  Some of my work is very complex and without color coding, it'd take me 20 minutes to figure it out every time!

Isn't that better? Black to (remarked) black, easy peasy.
"Why don't I just remark the white wire red and switch their roles?" Because Code says otherwise.
Now it's just down to "how do I put 2 wires on one screw".
The simplest way is to get the $3.00 spec-grade outlets that accommodate "screw-and-clamp" to accept 2 wires in a clamped back-wire underneath each screw.
However if you want to stay with the 75 cent outlets, then you use a pigtail.  Join the 2 "black" wires to a third black pigtail wire that's about 6" long; join them with a wire nut or other splice.  The pigtail goes to the 1 screw.
The trick with wire nuts is to tighten HARD, and do a "pull test" afterwards by holding the nut and pulling each wire firmly. If any pull out, that's bad technique; iterate until you get it right.  That's not perfectionism.  A splice that falls apart is a splice with poor contact that will arc and start a fire.


It probably just dislodged some rust and build-up from the inside of the pipes, especially if they are older.

Clean out the aerators on the faucets. These are the filters that screw on at the tip of the faucet. Normally just take them apart and rinse them out, make sure not to wash any important pieces down the drain.


Does cold galvanizing compound restore the rust protection of a galvanized duct?

The zinc coating on the galvanized duct work is not in any way required to control corrosion of the A-coil.  Isolating the unit from the duct work is commonly done in the trade to provide vibration isolation.

However, sandwiching corrosion under a sheet of rubber that is not fully adhered may not be a good idea.  Moisture may become trapped between the two layers.  Also, it is generally not acceptable to place flammable materials such as rubber inside of duct work.  You would likely be better off painting or cold galvanizing the duct after applying your phosphotizing chemical.  If the condensate drain on the new fan-coil is correctly installed and kept clear, very little condensate should reach the duct.


Letting fresh air through a window without letting noise in

Short of replacing your window with a duct with several turns, lined with sound baffles, you aren't going to get quiet.

Human ear is amazingly sensitive.  30 db is a very quiet country side.  Flies buzzing, birds chirping.  Office is about 70 db  40 db difference doesn't sound like much, but it's a log scale.  That office is a thousand times noisier.

3 db is a factor of 2 in noise.  That is detectable as being quieter.  Just.

To make a meaningful difference you have to take at least 10 db (factor of 10) to 12 db (factor of 16)  This is difficult.

Windows that are designed to reduce sound are made of heavy glass, are double pane, and one pane is thicker than the other, they are mounted in a way that isolates them from each other and from the frame.

Ducts that reduce noise transmission are lined with irregular chunks of foam, and have several corners with T's so that the air has to corner while the sound goes straight.  Hard to do well.

More information:  Research sound stage building design.

What you can do is mask it.  Get a set of external speakers you can plug into your phone, and get a recording of surf, or babbling brook, or wind in the pines.


Talk to your inspector (AHJ), but I suspect you have too much solar for your panel's bussing

Normally, all the current in a panel is sourced from a single point, and thus the panel busbars are protected by a single OCPD (main breaker or upstream feeder breaker), meaning that the panel's busbars cannot be overloaded without eventually tripping the OCPD.  However, when you start adding interconnected power sources, such as solar inverters, to the picture, this assumption stops holding, and it's quite possible to severely overload a panel's busbars without tripping any breakers if you start tacking inverters onto your panel without considering its busbar ampacity ratings.

This is enshrined in the NEC in the requirements in 705.12(B)(2), and more specifically in 705.12(B)(2) point (3), with subpoints (a) and (b) potentially applicable here, as subpoint (c) would effectively limit you to 0A of solar due to the presence of other loads in the panel along with the 200A feeder breaker, and subpoints (d) and (e) do not apply to your equipment at all:

  (3) Busbars. One of the methods that follows shall be used to
  determine the ratings of busbars in panelboards.

  (a) The sum of 125 percent of the power source(s)
  output circuit current and the rating of the overcurrent device
  protecting the busbar shall not exceed the ampacity of the
  busbar.

  Informational Note: This general rule assumes no limitation in
  the number of the loads or sources applied to busbars or their
  locations.

  (b) Where two sources, one a primary power source and
  the other another power source, are located at opposite ends
  of a busbar that contains loads, the sum of 125 percent of the
  power source(s) output circuit current and the rating of the
  overcurrent device protecting the busbar shall not exceed
  120 percent of the ampacity of the busbar. The busbar shall be
  sized for the loads connected in accordance with Article 220. A
  permanent warning label shall be applied to the distribution
  equipment adjacent to the back-fed breaker from the power
  source that displays the following or equivalent wording:

                          WARNING:
                POWER SOURCE OUTPUT CONNECTION —
            DO NOT RELOCATE THIS OVERCURRENT DEVICE.

  The warning sign(s) or label(s) shall comply with 110.21(B).

However, given that you have multiple strings of microinverters and no AC combiner subpanel in your plans, the "Where two sources..." condition in subpoint (b) may not apply to your scenario, leaving you operating under subpoint (a)'s rules, which for your panel (which likely has 225A busbars, as per this Square-D drawing), limit you to a maximum of 20A of actual solar current, or 4.8kW of solar; in other words, with the panel you have and assuming subpoint (b) does not apply, you can put in 14 microinverters' worth of solar, maximum, before you start risking a panel overload.

If your AHJ is willing to consider a consolidated group of breakers, located at the far end of the loadcenter bussing from the main, as a single power source for the purpose of applying subpoint (b), then your situation starts looking rosier.  In this case, you can use the 120% multiplier for busbar ampacity found in that subpoint, leading to a net effective ampacity of 270A.  This means that you have 56A of actual solar current available to you (70A of remaining busbar rating divided by 125%), which gives you enough headroom for your current installation, and permits a maximum of 13.44kW of solar, or enough for the 40 microinverters called for in your four-string ultimate plan.  This likely will require a written Code variance issued by your AHJ inspector, though.

There is an alternative solution, but it requires different hardware

Since you do not wish to have a separate AC combiner subpanel in your system, which is the normal solution employed in multi-string microinverter systems, we will need different hardware to meet that constraint if the AHJ does not permit you to operate under 705.12(B)(2) subpoint (3)(b) with multiple sources aggregated on the far end of the busbar.  In particular, you'll need to return your panel (which wasn't a bad choice for an additional panel, by the way: your thinking of "get plenty of spaces" was precisely what one should do in the circumstance as getting more slots when you already have the chance is far cheaper than installing another panel later), and get a somewhat more unusual piece of hardware in its stead, known as a split bus generator loadcenter.

Unfortunately, Square-D no longer makes an outdoor-rated split bus generator loadcenter, and never made one in Homeline for that matter, which means that the HOM2200 will have to get returned as well if you go down this path.  Siemens makes  a suitable unit, namely the W3042B1200GEN, but it (and its W3042L1225GEN main-lug counterpart) are quite scarce/hard-to-find as Siemens/Murray (prefix L for the Murray part number) parts.  However, the W3042B1200GEN serves as the basis for the Generac 5453 and 5454 split bus loadcenter/transfer switch combinations; while the Generac 5453 (no transfer actuator) is unobtanium, the Generac 5454 (factory fitted transfer actuator) is readily available, and can be used for this, along with a QN2200R feeder breaker and a few Siemens branch breakers, with some work.

In particular, you'd need to:

remove the factory-fitted transfer actuator, voltage sense breaker, and generator breaker,
add filler pieces (Siemens ECQF3s) to fill in the spaces in the cover that were twisted out at the factory,
replace the factory-fitted standby load section feeder breaker (a Q2125) with a Q270, making sure to torque the lugs on the new breaker to the specified tightening torque using a torque screwdriver, and
install and fit the panel, including the Siemens QN2200R feeder breaker in the upper section along with Siemens QP branch breakers for other loads desired, and Siemens Q220 branch breakers in the lower section for the individual microinverter strings.

This lets you apply 705.12(B)(2) subpoint (3)(b) in a straightforward, "as intended" fashion while preserving your desire to not have a separate enclosure for your solar AC combiner.  It does do a fair bit of surgery on the panel, but the Siemens/Generac generator-ready loadcenters were designed and intended for field installation of the transfer hardware, so this isn't such a huge deal, and we are blanking out the spaces designed as reserved for transfer-associated breakers in the loadcenter's wiring diagram as well.  Since the panel in question here uses 225A busbars in its upper section as implied by this Siemens drawing, we can safely reuse the 705.12(B)(2) subpoint (3)(b) analysis we performed above for the existing Homeline panel, and we don't have to worry about overloading the lower section as it can handle 125A, which is far in excess of what the Code permits your solar system to expand to.

Of course, if you wish a separate combiner box, nothing stops you from doing that

If you'd rather use a separate AC combiner subpanel for your microinverters, that is of course fine too.  I would use a simple 4/8 space, 100A or 125A, NEMA 3R Homeline loadcenter for this, namely the HOM48L125GRB, with a HOM270 in your new 200A panel for the feeder breaker, HOM220s for the branch breakers for now (to be replaced by HOMT220220s in the ultimate configuration), and 3 6AWG copper conductors in a 1/2" RMC nipple for the feeder back to the main panel, mounting the subpanel on whichever side of the main panel the solar circuits come in on.  The reason to shortchange this panel on slots is because this panel is reserved for PV sources only, and cannot have loads mixed in without severely complicating the busbar ampacity calculations for the main panel.


I have cleaned gutters at multiple one-story houses by kneeling down from the roof, but I wouldn't risk it on a two-story house.

If you have a two-story house or are wary of cleaning the gutters from a one-story roof, then you have two options:

As BMitch has said, get a stabilizer bar (~$25-75; I recommend this
one as it is easy to adjust and has no nuts and bolts that you
can accidentally misplace) and an extension ladder (if you are a bit
on the heavy side, get fiberglass; fiberglass ladders are heavier
but stronger.)  This will make your ladder more stable, as ladders
can very easily slide along the gutters, leading to a fall.  Despite
this additional stability, you should avoid becoming too confident
and leaning over instead of getting down and moving the ladder.
Remember to slope the ladder correctly.  The easiest way to get this
right is to put your toes against each foot of the ladder and put
your hands out, straight forward.  You should be able to touch the
ladder, but just barely.  When moving a ladder that's already set
upon the roof, it's easiest to stand underneath it, between the base
of the ladder and the house.  This keeps the ladder's center of
gravity above you.  Watch how this fireman lifts the ladder,
starting at 2:56.  Pause the video at 3:01 and imagine that the
building is behind him, and all he would do to move the ladder at
that point is to take a few steps to the side and place it back
down.
Another option is to remove the material from the roof, wearing a
harness for fall protection.  You will need a harness, lanyard,
rope, and something to attach the rope to.  You can get all of this
for $100-200.  (Example)  Make sure you wear the leg straps
pretty tight, as they can slide up into and damage your thingamajoo
if you fall when they're loose.

As far as what tools to use, whatever gets the job done.  Hands (gloves recommended), small hand shovel, or maybe something like this.  A broom will also work.  If you're working from a ladder, you should reach for a tool with a short handle.  If you're working from the roof, you should get something with a long handle.  If there's any sand/dirt buildup in the gutters, hit it with the garden hose.


Not all white wires are "neutrals", and not all "neutrals" are white.  Some white wires are in fact used as "hots", especially those that are marked with black tape/marker/paint, and/or connected to single pole snap switches.

You should put everything back the way you found it, and contact a local licensed Electrician. Better yet, just shut off the breaker and call the Electrician. You can explain to them what you did.

This advice may sound harsh, but it sounds like you don't know much about electrical wiring.  If you'd like to learn, take a course at the local college, or read some books.  Messing with wires in your home, is not the way to learn the basics.


Surface-mounted raceways are the typical approach, other than opening up the walls and putting the cables in them (or putting conduit in them so you can replace cables as they become obsolete.)

Common trade names for “raceway” (or conduit) include “Panduit” and “Wiremold”.

Or for the super industrial look, just attach conduit to the surface of the wall...


Google "bowtie inlay" for details on what's possible. You can do the work either with chisels or a router (or both). And, for what it's worth, bowtie isn't the only shape out there... it's just reasonably charming and has straight lines that make it more manageable for chisel work. (Sharp chisels are always good, but particularly good in this instance.)

Anyway, the black would be chiseled or router-ed out; a small replacement piece would be glued in; then you'd have to sand it flush and apply a local finish similar to the existing. You wouldn't have to refinish the whole floor.

Almost all cutting tools are dangerous. If you don't have experience with a router, please read up on what can go wrong and practice on scrap.

The not-very-nice-in-my-opinion alternate is to chip out the black and use a lighter coloured wood filler. The really bad thing about this is that your wood's pores might (depending on the finish) collect traces of filler that'll make the whole repair look messy. And, as mentioned, the colour of filler is uniform, so it'll jump out at you as well.


To answer part 2 of your question.

You should probably reapply the stain a little earlier than the full 5 years - it could be starting to show signs of wear before then and you don't want to let the weather in.

If you are reapplying a stain then cleaning and lightly sanding the door should be preparation enough. If you want to apply a lighter stain then you will have to remove more of the old finish first.

Even if the stain does peel (which is unlikely) then sanding should be all you need to do. Be careful though to make sure that you sand the door evenly. If you take more off in one area than the rest it will show through.


Replacing garbage disposal w/ straight pipe. What to do with the wire?

Just terminate it in a junction box with a blank cover
Simply attach a junction box (a "handy box" with the appropriate cable clamp will do) to a nearby piece of cabinet frame, then terminate the cable into the box via the cableclamp, land the bare wire on the ground screw in the box, and terminate the remaining wires individually with wirenuts.  Finish this off with a blank box cover, turn the circuit back on, and you're done!


What are the pros and cons of solatube vs velux solar tubes?

my name is Bruce and I work with VELUX. I would like to provide you with some insights into our SUN TUNNEL skylight products.

The reflectivity of the tunnel material used by Solatube is 99% reflective, while the tunnel material used by VELUX is 98% reflective (rigid tunnels).  However, the VELUX tunnel comes with a 20-year warranty that it will remain highly reflective, while Solatube’s warranty is 10 years.

VELUX warranty link to pdf

Solatube warranty link

Reflectivity tests are conducted in a laboratory, but the light output of a tubular daylighting device will vary based on the orientation of the tunnel to the sun’s position in the sky, length of tunnel and time of day. The VELUX tunnel is designed to let the optimal amount of daylight into the home from as many different angles as possible. Our dome cap and our new flat glass cap allow the sun to penetrate the tunnel at many different angles. And the flat glass also sits low on the roof for an appealing appearance.

I hope this helps you in your decision making. If you have other questions about the VELUX tunnels please post here and I will do my best to answer them.


`There are many slides that will handle #75 to #100 lb of weights.  See one hereThese drawer slide weight over 1-1/4 # each and 2" in height.
  I believe your drawer  will be more an issue at 36 width than the slides. The drawer that comes with the cabinet will not hold very heavy weight. The pre-built bottom would be too light. I built drawer 36" deep and about 30" wide with 1/2 plywood for the bottom. My drawers were filled with dishes and quite heavy. I use heavy duty full extension slides that rated at least for 100#.


What could be causing my kitchen drawers to be sliding out?

I've had this happen before.  Like the commenter mentioned, it's due to one of two things:

The cabinet is not level with the floor causing the whole cabinet to lean forward.
The tracks for the draw are not level, causing the drawer to tilt forward.

Just get a level and test the drawer and the track.


Want to connect and old standard ceiling fan to wall light switch

This is definitely possible, but whether you can diy is another matter. It would require running wires inside walls, through holes in top plates to connect the switches to the fans. You would have work in the attic and probably drill extra holes in top plates.

Depending on the age of these fans and make/model you might be able to get the control you want using wireless remote switches. If you did this, you would not have to run a cable and could work entirely in the living space below the ceiling. Personally I prefer the wall controls like you are envisioning, but a professional electrician would be able to do this far, far easier than an inexperienced diyer.

Could you send pics of one or more of the fans? How old are they?


Why does my shower switch keep burning out?

Mira seems to be based in the UK, so I'm assuming a 230V electrical mains.

Just taking the nominal figures for power and voltage gives: 10.8kW / 230V = 46.96A.  If you look at the worst case mains voltage (230V - 10% = 207V), you could actually be drawing over 52A.

So, if your shower is drawing as much power as it's rated for (say if the incoming water is very cold, or it's a cold day and you've got the water temperature turned up), a 45A switch is actually underrated for the job it's doing.  I'd recommend replacing it with a heftier switch.


Cleaning Mould Away & Inhibition of Future Mould Growth

Mold requires two things:

Organic matter (i.e. food)
Water

You prevent mold by eliminating one or both of these.  In many cases the food is the building materials themselves, wood, paper, some paints, etc.  So you have to focus on the water or moisture that is allowing the mold to take hold and grow.

A diluted bleach solution is useful for cleaning up but it will not inhibit future growth if the conditions are again favorable. Commercial mold removing products are also available.

In difficult cases you can get paint additives that are designed to inhibit mold and mildew growth.


How do I protect paint on a steel outer door from scratching?

I would avoid drilling into the door for a couple of reasons. It may void any warranty on the door and if the dog was able to get a corner or edge loose they may damage the door pulling at the plastic. Cut a piece of lexan or plexiglass large enough to cover the area of potential damage. It needs to be large enough so the dog cannot grab the top while on its' hind legs. If it is a large dog you may have to cut a hole to go around the door knob. If the door has a paneled design stamped into it drill several small holes in the bottom side of the Lexan. This will prevent condensation from forming between it and the door. I would then adhere it to the door with clear exterior chaulking applied around the entire perimeter of the panel. It may help to lightly sand the Lexan where the adhesive will be to get a better bond. Position it in place with clamps or duct tape until the chaulking has set.


Are hydraulics stronger against compression or tension?

They are still working in compression - the only difference is the extra weight of the base, which hopefully is negligible compared to the load you are lifting.

Edit: Assuming you have a dual acting system - where hydraulic fluid pushes against either side of the piston (rather than just an air jack where atmospheric pressure pushes it back) then there is no difference - other than the weight of the outer cylinder.


Why are there only 2 white wires in my celling outlet box for me to install celling fan and light?

Stop.   Your box is not rated for a fan.

You cannot simply put a fan on that junction box. The vibration will tear it out of the ceiling.

You may be able to resolve it by mounting a purely physical fan mount right next to it, which is fan rated, and using this junction box only to bring electrical (not carry its weight).

Once that's resolved...

Light + fan on one switch

You don't have enough wires to control fan and light separately.  You must join the black and blue wires to each other, and connect them to a point to be determined.

Take ground to the screw in the back left of the junction box.

You have two cables coming into the box with a black and white in each.  One of the cables is the supply power, and black is hot and white is neutral. The other cable is a switch loop, and it is wired with black as always-hot and white as switched-hot.

Pause here and identify which cable is which.  Code requires the switch loop use the white wire for always-hot, it must be marked with tape or paint (on both ends) to designate that it is not a neutral.

Get a non-contact voltage tester and unhook all 4 wires (non-grounds) and turn the power on. One of the 4 wires will be hot, it will be a black, and that cable is supply.  The other cable is switch loop.  Mark the white, and join it to the supply black and push it into the back of the box.   Now the remaining wires will be white and black, and those colors will be valid.

From there it is straightforward; lamp black+blue to black, and lamp white to white.

All singing, all dancing on the wires you have

For this you need smart switch tech, and a module that sits up in the fan rose.  The module connects separately to fan blue and black, power, switch loop, etc.  Then either a companion (matching) smart switch is installed in the switch box, or the switch is wired to control light only and a remote is used for the fan.  The instructions will say how to wire it.


Water heater not staying hot more than 10mins

TL; DR: When the temperature is colder outside, your cold water is colder so you have to use more hot water for the same shower temperature.

Facts:

A shower head puts out 2.5 gallons per minute (GPM) (or close to it).
To get the temperature you want, you have to mix hot and cold water.
In the summer, the "cold" water temp is much warmer than it is in the winter.

Given the above facts, consider this (numbers and calculations made up)...  In the summer, to get your shower where you want it, you need to mix 70 degree "cold" water with 120 degree "hot" water to get a final temperature of 100 degrees.  This means that you have to use about half hot and half cold, so 1.25 GPM cold and 1.25 GPM hot.  That means that 20 gallons of hot water will last (20 / 1.25 = ) about 15 minutes.  This doesn't match your 30-45 minutes, but just stay with me...  It's just an example.

In the winter, the incoming "cold" temperature is much cooler.  It could get down to 40 degrees.  When you mix the 40 degree water with 120 degree water to get a 100 degree shower, you don't need nearly as much cold water.  You still have to add up to 2.5 GPM for the shower head, so the ratio ends up being more like 0.5 GPM cold and 2 GPM of hot.  That will reduce your shower time to 10 minutes - a 50% drop, and nothing in the house has obviously changed.  You probably like the shower hotter than 100 degrees, so the ratio will end up using even more hot water.

So, regardless of what the real numbers are, in the summer you end up "having more hot water" even though your water heater hasn't changed at all.

Also

As this shows, you have been using more hot water even tho your total water consumption may have gone down because of the shorter usage time.

And if you're renting an apartment, you can't replace the water heater.  Plumbing and electrical repairs must be done by their personnel so they can remain liable for any problems.


Tool recommendation for cutting curve in tiles

I believe they are basically saying "They don't make them like they used to". Which is always true. Some things get better, some get cheaper. Many companies make pencil grinders and you don't have to buy a Dremel. Look for something of a quality level and price that matches your purpose and budget.

If you only have a few small cuts to make you might consider a coping saw with an abrasive tile blade. You can also use a set of tile nippers to carefully remove small chunks of tile from a corner or edge.

If you have holes to make for pipes, they sell abrasive hole saws made for tile.

Good luck!


Do waste water pipes for kitchens and bathrooms require a minimum slope to avoid clogging?

I am not in the UK but my city uses the International Plumbing Code.

Everything needs to have the required slope. The required slope depends on the size of the pipe.

IPC table 704.1 shows that a pipe with an ID (interior diameter) of 2.5" or less needs 1/4" per foot. While a pipe that is 3" to 6" only needs 1/8" per foot.


Turned out to be the fill valve. Once I replaced it, everything quieted down.


Was it correct to connect all the ground wires for my new outlets?

Based on my understanding of your situation...

You ran a new cable from a light box which contained a source cable
You connected that cable's ground wire to your new cable's ground wire
You connected the other end of your new cable's ground wire to the receptacle bar

That's all correct, assuming you used appropriate connection technique and components.
One suggestion is that the light circuit may be a 15A circuit, which somewhat limits the tools you can run from it without tripping the breaker. You might pull a new run from a 20A outlet circuit or directly from the panel (taking appropriate precautions) on a new 20A breaker.


If the sink is deeper so that there is no longer room for the dishwasher connector, the only solution I know of is to move the P-trap† lower.

This may mean a considerable amount of cutting of wastepipes and joining new sections of pipes. If the wastpipe does not lead to an accessible vertical wastepipe, you might need to remove the back of the cupboard under the sink (or cut a large hole and re-patch later)

Some sink manufacturers sell specialized fittings that may make the problem easier to solve.

If the difference in height between old and new sink is small, you can try a flexible coupling between trap and drainpipe - here's one I used in similar circumstances - you have to reposition the trap using its swivelling connections to make room for the flexible coupling


What options exist when utility wire is too short to reach the meter?

If the conductors are to be replaced, the utility will likely require the new work to meet their current requirements. For my utility that would mean also replacing the 2" conduit with 3" -- they simply won't install a residential service in a 2" conduit anymore.
There exist compression-style fittings for rigid conduit -- you don't have to have threads. Trimming the conduit to be a few inches shorter doesn't seem like a big deal. Conduit fill requirements mean there will be some space between the conductors and the inner wall of the 2". If the conductors are straightened well they might just fit into a 1-1/2" pipe (for example). That smaller pipe or other material could be slid down inside the 2" to serve as a shield and protect the conductors while the 2" conduit is trimmed and de-burred.

Other option: do some digging. If the underground service is direct-buried, ie it's not in conduit the whole way, and if it approaches the building at an acute angle (like, say 30 degrees; far from perpendicular) then it might be possible to move the meter sideways along the wall to gain a little more conductor length.
You should probably request a consultation with a field engineer from the utility to learn which options they'll support.


Home built in 2000 - Is this wall load bearing?

The two partial height walls (to the right with an archway in the top photo, and to the right with two pictures in the bottom photo) are definitely not load bearing.  However the columns at the end of them might well be.  (They may just be there to stop the partial walls flopping around.)  It is much harder to tell with the full height wall to the kitchen.  We need to see the roof timbers to be sure.


Concrete is a terrible floor leveller, as it doesn't really bond well to anything other than itself, plus most commercial Quikcrete products have 3/8" aggregate in it (won't work for a 1/4" gap).
You don't need it anyhow: just use a good quality polymer modified tile mortar like Ceraflex 610 or Flextile 52 and install the tile.  You can easily use the mortar to float the tiles on a deeper or thinner bed.
If you can't get 50lbs of self leveller home without a vehicle, how will you get Quikcrete or mortar home?  It's all in 50lb bags.


240v / 30 amp would typically be for a clothes dryer outlet.
As people live in homes, and time goes by, they change things. I'm guessing, of course but possibly the dryer is now a gas dryer and there behind that dryer sits an outlet that isn't being used.

Other stuff :
A outlet in the garage for a "welder" that somebody had installed. And possibly hidden behind something.

Again, I'm guessing.


Depending on the refrigerator, there may be a way to adjust the door directly.  If not, most models have height adjustable feet. Simply adjust the feet, so that the door stays in place or slowly opens.

How the adjustments are made, will be specific to the make and model. Check the manufacturer's documentation for your appliance, to determine how to make the adjustments on your unit.


I'm a little confused by "lights out in part" vs. "caused an[d] outage". If you have really had everything go out ("outage"), then this is definitely "call utility" time. If you measure the voltage (when things are working...) and see an imbalance - e.g., 140V on one circuit and 90V on another - then it is definitely "call utility" time.

Do you have a multimeter that you can test voltage? If so test outlets on both sides and see if you get consistent results. If you have a neutral problem it may actually be at meter or outside and is then a utility problem. I suggest calling the utility and telling them you have "intermittent outage and possibly a lost neutral". They should come out quickly to investigate. If the problem is on their side they will normally fix at no charge. If they determine it is on your side then you will need to call an electrician to diagnose a panel problem.

CALL THE UTILITY FIRST!

From what you've described (not 100% clear), it may really be a panel problem. But the problem sounds "big" enough that it could really be a utility issue. If you call the utility and they determine everything is OK up to the panel, there will generally not be any charge (they are concerned because these are potential life-safety issues and will normally send someone to check without any charge).


Consider the switch and fan as a system.  Together, if we ignore the wires that interconnect them to each other, they are inputting 1 hot wire and 1 neutral wire.  Both those wires need to be attached to the LOAD side of one GFCI device.
That's it.
In your question, you are claiming that power comes to the switch first, then proceeds to the fan via an entirely separate /2 cable than is used by the light.  Obviously if those facts are untrue, then this advice is void.
Replace the fan switch with a  GFCI switch... and yer done.
A GFCI switch looks like a GFCI receptacle, but with no sockets.
The Test/Reset buttons are re-cast to be "Off/On" buttons.  This is UL approved.
Or... pull off that receptacle if that circuit serves ONLY this bathroom
The problem is recent NEC revisions have required bathroom receptacle circuits be dedicated to receptacles.  There's one exception for receptacle circuits which serve only one bathroom - those can be tapped for hardwired loads in the bathroom.
"But my house should be 'grandfathered', since it was built prior to that rule".  Um, no... by that logic an 1865 house wouldn't need to follow any electrical codes at all.  What is the case is that work permitted under a particular Code revision only needs to comply with that Code revision.  However, if Code changes, new work such as this must comply with current Code at the time it is permitted.  In short, you can't make a grandfathered situation worse.  You can't add new hardwired loads onto a receptacle circuit that serves more than this one bathroom.


What prevents cold air from coming in through evaporative cooler

The evaporative coolers that sit on roof are normally serviced in the fall at the end of the usage season. Typical service includes shutting off the water supply to the cooler, draining the water sump in the cooler, cleaning away any debris and leaves that may have accumulated around the unit and then installing a cover over the whole cooler shroud. The jacket may be a canvas or tight wave synthetic fabric material.

These covers are typically available at home centers and evaporative cooler suppliers and have to be purchased by size. They are typically sewn as a fitted cover that then has a closure along one side that is cinched up with heavy cord similar to lacing a shoe. Some covers have a draw string in a hem around the bottom that allows the cover to be cinched down under the lower edge of the cooler shroud to prevent it from being blown off in strong winds.

Since evaporative coolers are typically used in areas where there is intense sun for large parts of the year be prepared to have to replace the cooler cover every few years.


Cracked subway tile on shower cub after remodel: what's my next steps

I am a license tile installer of 35 years and you definitely have a leak in your pan and/or non existent pan on the curb.  The reason the grout is cracking and tiles are pushing away from each other is because the curb was built with wood ( wood swells when I gets wet) this is not the proper way install this, and soon it will develop mold - if it hasn't already. Curbs must be built with concrete blocks (filled solid) or a form builder utilizing concrete (dry pack).

This issue needs to be addressed as soon as possible, that curb can channel water into your adjacent walls as well creating a much larger issue.

To find out if the pan is leaking, as Chris stated above, remove the drain cap, plug the drain ( must be water tight!) First, mark a tile with a fill line using a crayon then fill up the pan to your mark. I would put it slightly below the level of the curb. Wait 48 hours to see how much the water has dropped below the line. Typically a small amount for evaporation, maybe the thickness of your crayon line can be accounted for, anything more than that you have a leak in the pan and it will need to be replaced.  Unfortunately in either situation your glass will need to be removed from the curb.


Is it safe and within code (1970 US) to permanently wire a 20' cord to a garage door opener?

Both an extension cord and a properly-installed replacement cord (possible built from an extension cord) are viable, temporary solutions in my experienced but unlicensed opinion. You will not overload a 14 gauge cord with a typical 1/3 or 1/2 hp opener. (I'd avoid the lighter 16 gauge cords even if your current plug cord is 16 gauge--you're adding length.)

These solutions will probably not meet building code and will not have UL approval. If it was my home, I'd disregard those things in your situation.

In either case, secure the cord such that it's not likely to be damaged. That's the primary concern with exposed wiring of any kind.


Take off outlet face plates, unscrew light fixtures, etc. Tape over the outlets and switches. Bag the light fixtures.

I've seen a lot of painted-over receptacles. There's no reason to do that, since it's so easy to do it right.

I've seen edged-in face plates and light fixtures. Again, easy to do it right.


Need help wiring a 3-way Honeywell digital timer switch

You should follow the instructions included with the device.

  Connect wire "C" of the RPLS530A/RPLS531A to the "common" wire,
  identified when removing the old switch. Connect the other two
  RPLS530A/RPLS531A wires to the two remaining wires.

  At the other 3-way switch, connect the jumper wire between the "common"
  screw and the screw where wire "1" of the RPLS530A/RPLS531A
  is connected.

So your diagram will look like this...


Double sink with disposal - water shoots up when disposal runs

My instincts are inline with the comments by MonkeyZues and Solar Mike. The impeller design of some disposals accelerates the discharge. A partially plugged trap will send water up, following the path of least resistance (and still let the sinks drain). If the discharge from the disposal swept down (with a swept tee) the discharge would be directed down instead of splashing into the vertical-side of the straight tee. Both ideas are simple and inexpensive - cleaning the trap and swapping the tee.


What batteries are available for powering outdoor LED lights?

The next size up from AA is C.  The next size up from C is D.  You can get both of those in rechargeable, and a sufficient stack of them will cover you just fine.
Over in the lithium world, we have the common 18650 size which about the size of two C-batteries with more energy storage for their size.
Do not underestimate the design challenges of working with LEDs.  Your best bet is to use lights designed to a standard voltage such as 12V "LED strips" and then use 12V batteries.  For instance three lithiums or 10 NiMH batteries will give 12V. Most 12V LED assemblies are tolerant of 11-14V, since those are voltages that will come off a car battery at different times.