Why is water being consumed when my shutoff valve is closed?

It's clearly NOT the shutoff valve - water is going somewhere, and the valve is shutting it off. So it's doing it's job. There has to be a pipe, or a branch off a pipe that is going somewhere and running water, after that valve, from what you have described.

Typically where water is heard and the water meter is spinning but you don't see any, it's going into a drain somewhere - why anything tied to the "outside faucet shutoff under the house" would do that, I surely don't know, unless it is irrigation or pool related - my usual suspect inside the house (because I had one that did this occasionally, and when it kept doing it every so often after I cleaned the valves to stop it each time, finally replaced it) is a water softener, but that seems highly unlikely here.

Depending strongly on the pipe layout, you might get an indication of which branch is most suspect by measuring the pressure at each outside faucet. Not guaranteed, but possibly one will be considerably lower than the others, and that would be the one to double-check the pipe to, for any branches you may have missed.

Toilets are the other usual one, but they tend to be more obvious as far as being seen/heard misbehaving. Not to mention that you'd notice it not filling with the shutoff closed.


Pulling cables (CAT5e) Vertically with Horizontal Studs in the Wall

Given that the  "horizontal studs" are fireblocking, you should be applying firestop caulk after you run the wires, which favors access holes and drywall repair. So does the possible/likely presence of power wiring in the wall, and possibly other things like pipes. Blindly poking a long drill bit into the unknown can get very interesting, in the unpleasant sense of "interesting."

Edit to add: Also - choose conduit. Cat5e is already obsolete, even if it's "good enough" for what you currently want. Conduit makes it easy to install the next thing when needed.


Connecting a Makita jigsaw (4351) to dry vacuum cleaner (Dyson)

The main problem with using something like a Dyson or any other "floor vac" is that their filters (and warranty) are not made for sucking up a stream of sawdust or other "shop dust".  I imagine you can, and it should work fine, but you could clog up a comparatively expensive filter in a short time.

A "shop vac" has large filters made for exactly this type of dust and the filters are pretty cheap and easy to replace.  Some shop vacs will also accept bags for certain very fine dust that would quickly clog a pleated filter.

Your other issue is that attachments for power tools are going to be made for the standard sizes of shop vac attachments.  The only thing the Dyson has to connect to is its own included tools so it might not fit anything else without a clunky adapter.


It’s completely the wrong ballast, who sold this???? Never shop there again.  Wow!
That ballast is an instant-start type for huge 8’ long tubes (2438.4 mm).
The ballast you want is the very common dual F40T12.   And you want a rapid-start or programmed-start type, as that will have the same exact wiring as you already have.


Abrasion on shower head pipe -- must replace?

If it's mainly just smooth and not flat, I wouldn't worry about it. If it's actually flat then it's more of a concern and depending on the type of water you have, the inside of the pipe might be worn down a bit as well. Keep in mind that there is some pressure on it when the shower is running but of course it's released when you turn it off. In the end, it's a peace-of-mind thing. If you're worried about it and don't want to deal with it later, have it fixed. If you're not worried, leave it alone.


Bleed radiator in to jug, frothy bubbles on the surface of the water

Short answers:

Condition is likely normal.
Water does not need to be clear.

Details:

On the color - Despite being refilled with clean water, rust/sediment will remain within your system and radiators - causing the water to take on that color. Unless there is a reason to drain the system, introduction of excessive clean water will speed system corrosion due to the dissolved oxygen brought in with fresh water.  In a closed system, old water is 'like fine wine'.

On the bubbles - If you let a sample sit exposed, do the bubbles disappear?  If no, this suggests that they are caused by a chemical (other than water) that was added to / remain within the system (ie. antifreeze, corrosion inhibitor).  If the bubbles disappear over time and do not remain on the sides of the container, this is the behavior expected of water used in radiant heating systems.  If you boil the same sample of water on a stove top (not microwave!) and similar bubbles form, this also points to a chemical treatment in your system. Have you had work done on the system recently, but did not add a chemical additive? If so, the frothing may be caused by cutting oils introduced into the system. If the sample boils and settles like normal water - your frothy bubbles are normal and created during the bleeding process.


The proper way to do this would be to replace the 14/2 or 12/2 with a 14,12/3 cable. At the ceiling connect your new black to hot, new white to existing white and white from light fixture, and red to the black from the light. At the switch box, pigtail hot to brass screw of outlet and to top of switch or follow directions on box if using combination switch/outlet. Connect white to silver screw on outlet and red wire to bottom of switch or follow directions if using combination switch/outlet. Don't use any backstabs if present. Turn off breaker before doing any work.


It is normal for glass-ceramic cooktop to be hot?

No, it definitely sounds like there may be an issue with the contacts. If the cooktop is relatively new, contact the installer/manufacturer to decide if you have received a faulty product.


Can you have neutrals on ground bar only bonded through main panel body

It may sound funny but it is ok and even required in a way your neutral and ground being on the same bar is fine but look closer and you will see a jumper to ground (the panel is required to be grounded, your grounded and grounding conductors are tied together and then to the case so it is functionally the same on separate bars that are bonded and connected to the case.


Lamp base out of wood, containing wires. Is there a safe way?

I know you've seen LED replacement "bulbs" that screw in, and you know those fail.  What is failing isn't the LED.  It's the conversion power supply which converts 230V to 3V for the LEDs, which tend to be built very cheaply. You could fix them, but it's not worth it.  Don't let that scare you away from LED tech.  The actual LED emitters proper have an extremely  long service life.  They will not burn out, probably in our lifetimes.

So anytime you're homebrewing a lamp, the right answer is to use LEDs because LEDs use low-voltage and run cool.  There's a quasi-standard for projects like yours, to use 12 volts DC -- the LEDs won't run directly on that, but there are lots of ways to buy 12 volt LED modules that simply contain three LEDs and a resistor.  The resistor will last as long as the LEDs.

To power that, you use a common, commercial off the shelf 230V-12V "wall wart" type power supply, which is listed by the relevant safety agencies - BSI, TUV, UL, whoever you use.  (CE is pretty worthless when dealing with China). That means you are never touching mains voltage.   An electrical short could still cause a fire, but 99% of such fire-starters are arcing faults across open connections, and 12V doesn't really like to arc. All the "failable" electronics are in the wall-wart, all the rest is wires, LEDs and resistors.  The wall-wart will be what fails, just swap it.


Successfully disassembling sash windows, replacing the glass, and reassembling can be complicated and difficult. If the replacement glass pane is oversized at all, you will not be able to screw the sash frame back together and will likely crack the glass trying. If slightly undersized, it might work. If it is at all thicker, it likely will not fit in the rubber surround that the window is equipped with.

Assuming you measured the original glass properly, I would return the replacement pane you bought and insist on the proper (original) size.


What is the "standard" height of a P trap?

(P-trap is the area between the two horizontal washers)

This question doesn't make sense because you will buy the ptrap and its size depends on the width of the pipe you pick.  Look to the picture above for normal dimensions.

As for the fixture outlet, the length from your sink to the beginning of the ptrap... Well this doesn't really matter and is totally dependent on the trap outlet height.  This could be 6 inches or 2 feet.  Depends on where your trap outlet comes out of wall (or meets below floor).

The trap outlet distance is regulated based on the pipe diameter - and I am sure this has been answered many times on here.


How should I attach laminate foil dryer transition duct?

Duct Tape is good for a lot of things, except duct work!  It will eventually dry up and pull away from the heat in the vent.

I would bend/dent one of the ends slightly so that it will fit easily inside of the other.  Then I'd secure it with proper HVAC foil tape, followed by a clamp around it.

Foil Tape

(source: homedepot.ca)

Metal Gear Clamp

(source: homedepot.ca)


Converting to a double switch but lost power to rest of circuit

Like Mark Twain said, "it ain't what you don't know that gets ya... it's what you know that just ain't so!"

You're talking about travelers, well there are no 3-way switches here, so there are no travelers.

There is such a thing as a switched-hot wire, i.e. that is energized when the switch is on / the device is intended to be energized. But that is not a traveler. Some people call it a load wire, but I don't like using that word because it becomes extremely confusing if a GFCI is anywhere nearby.  So  I call them switched-hot, and I expect to have one per device switched.

Then you're talking about one hot wire and 3 load wires.  I've never seen that before, and wouldn't expect to see it.

Typically when you have multiple black wires joined together, especially when they are pigtailed to a switch, that bunch is actually all hot wires.  Obviously one of them is coming from the panel, but the rest are going either to switches or outlets here, or to those onward loads you say now don't work.

So I think your belief that the cluster of black wires is "travelers or load wires" is the part that just ain't so.

I would try putting the wire-nutted black onto the "hot"/common side of the switch, since I think they are actually your supply always-hot.  And that solo black on the switched/load side.  See if that makes it work any better.

At the very least, try this: Connect nothing to the load side of the switch in the lower (black) position.  Try connecting different black wires to the hot side of the switch until that upper (red) switch starts working.  Once that's the case, you know you have the correct hot wire(s) over there, and connect the remaining hot wire(s) to the load side lower.


How can I run 2" plumbing vents under windows in a 2x4 wall?

There is a reason why nearly all "plumbing walls" are located in the interior of the house, in a non-load-bearing wall. This is the reason.
You've got a bearing citrus tree, and you're talking about exterior 2x4 walls, so I'm going to assume that you're in the southern hemisphere in someplace with mild winters. That's relevant, because the applicable codes will likely be different.
Don't bother trying to tie all the vents together by going sideways in the the wall. Instead, tie the close ones together, and then try to get the rest together in the attic space. It looks like the tub and toilet vents could merge and go right in the photo. You might want to add another solid stud in the right-side gap right of the window, after installing the vertical vent.


Trying to find missing switch for outdoor light

Make sure the light bulb is good.

Measure voltage across those 2 wires.  Does it read full line voltage?

Remove all the light bulbs. Does the voltage change?  (It might be "phantom voltage").

If the voltage is there with the bulb in, and gone/diminished to phantom when the bulb is out, then it probably is a switch to the bulb.   The next test is to connect those 2 wires to a receptacle, and plug a lamp into the receptacle. (really works best if the lamp has a switch).  Now put same-size incandescent light bulbs in both lamps.

Does turning the temporary lamp on cause the other one to light up?  If yes, are they both about half brightness?  If so, that settles it; that's a switch to that light.


My dryer vent was setup to go thru the wall, up 2 stories, to my roof

As a general rule, dryer vents should be cleaned out with a brush (attached to a long chain or rope or flexible rod so they can be run through the duct) every 6 months or so. If the arrangement of the vents in your townhouse community is such that you cannot easily do this yourself, you should take it up with whatever owners association or management company there is overseeing the site, since lint clogged dryer vents can be a source of fires, which should be a concern far beyond the impact on your dryer's performance.

If you applied something like a leaf blower to the bottom of the duct, you may have blown the cap on the top right off it, which would add to your problems.


Efflorescence is the product of dissolving internal salt by water or sufficient moisture and migration of the salty water to the surface of the wall. Depends on the weather and humidity, the water will evaporate and leave the salt behind that forms the efflorescence.
When it occurs, it indicates there is water/moisture that should be corrected to prevent the cyclic occurrence, which is harmful to the material/structure that contains the salt.
To correct/eliminate this problem, the first thing is to identify the source of water or cause of high humidity/moisture and cut off the capillary path. The linked article at the end addresses these issues and suggests ways to prevent the problem from recurring.
Per the article, some of the ways to remove efflorescence include:

Pressurized Water: Applying pressurized water may dissolve efflorescence quickly. If you use water, dry off the water from the building material after application. If you fail to remove the water, crystals may remain that can cause efflorescence to reappear.

Diluted Vinegar: If you’re in a pinch, using household diluted white vinegar can be used on efflorescence. It’s less harmful than industrial chemicals and you most likely already have vinegar in your kitchen.

Brushing: With a strong brush, you can remove efflorescence with ease."

Note that compared to method 1, methods 2 and 3 are patchworks, but they could work if the capillary path can be blocked effectively.
Please read this article for more information.  https://www.nitterhousemasonry.com/tips-advice/what-is-efflorescence/


Fixing slope on concrete patio - grinding a drainage channel?

We did end up renting a walk-behind grinder and it did the job.
It was not "easy" but only took a few hours, and the rental cost was reasonable. The ideal grinder we wanted was out of stock but would have had a smaller cutting width. However the one we used despite being larger still didn't take excessively long to do the job.
We had a small amount of water running the entire time which basically eliminated airborne dust, removed the dust, and indicated when the drainage was working well enough. We used that the judge when it was "done" rather than focusing on any exact measurement of slope.
In hindsight I think the job seemed intimidating but it was actually quite reasonable to do.


OK to drain 2nd vanity sink like drawing? Will this meet code?

You show a trap for the laundry, so you need a trap for both sinks and the shower, if you don't fit them then you could / will end up with smells coming in...


Background Information

There are really only four things necessary for mold growth:

Mold Spores
Mold Food (Organic Substance)
Appropriate Temperatures
Considerable Moisture

Resources

The best way to control mold growth, is to control moisture. One good resource available to you is the Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home from the US EPA. The US CDC has the following recommendations for decreasing mold exposure:

Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners. Mixing
bleach with ammonia or other cleaning products will produce
dangerous, toxic fumes.
Open windows and doors to provide fresh air.
Wear non-porous gloves and protective eye wear.
If the area to be cleaned is more than 10 square feet, consult the
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide titled Mold
Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on
schools and commercial buildings, this document also applies to other
building types. You can get it by going to the EPA web site at
http://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using bleach or
any other cleaning product.

Advice

As a Certified Indoor Air Quality Technician, I can tell you that bleach will in fact make mold worse. Bleach is very effective in removing the discoloration but leaves the microflora that will enable the mold to return in exactly the same spot when conditions are right. The most effective means of destroying molds, are biocides and anti-microbial solutions.

Recommendation

As far as your door is concerned, specifically:

Check the weather stripping and insure a good seal.
Check the serviceability of your HVAC system. Air Conditioners are
also dehumidifiers.
Keep the doors clean of organic substances - mold can even grow on
dirt.
Ask an IAQT to test the mold spores and determine the type of mold.
Clean the area with rubbing alcohol, or a solution with 60%-90%
alcohol.


It does need to be protected there by the sink. It may very well be wired into the LOAD terminals of the other GFCI outlet. It is easy for you to check. Plug a lamp in by the sink and turn it ON. Then press the TEST button on the GFCI outlet. If the lamp goes OFF you know that the outlets are coupled.


How can I screw a small threaded rod in a bigger hole?

Sure. You tap (or drill out and tap) the larger hole for a convenient thread size, and use an M6 threaded insert with that thread size (from personal experience, I suggest not using the helical type unless you have to - if there is no space constraint, a larger-outside-thread solid insert holds up better.)

M6x1 with an outer of M10x1.5 seems to be a common solid insert size that should work with the constraints you've mentioned, in "drill out and tap" mode.

If you have a different mindset or set of tools, you can also weld the existing hole up, redrill and tap for M6 - most folks don't go there first, as getting a good fill on a small hole is tricky - but again, you can drill it out larger first if that is the problem, or drill it out larger and weld in a plug.


Wood treated with copper green for a vegetable garden

No. Here's the msds sheet: MSDS

Among other things, the sheet says:

  Product Restrictions:
  Do not use on any material other than wood. Should not be applied to food or feed surfaces. FOR EXTERIOR USE ONLY (See approved label on product)
  Wood treated with Copper Naphthenate must not be used in construction of beehives.


Should you let PVC primer (purple) dry before applying cement?

No - PVC Primer does not need to 'dry' before use - in fact, it needs to be wet to do it's job and not impede the cement - remember, plumbers in a hurry use this daily and aren't sitting around waiting for the primer to dry before grabbing the cement.

I make sure everything fits first, then grab the primer and swab it on, set it down and grab the cement and swab it on.  If you wait - it's likely no more the 10 seconds.  If you've waited a few minutes because you've gotten distracted, made a mistake or something and it's fully dry, just reprime to be sure the plastic is accessible and softened for the cement.  If you don't- it can prevent the cement from bonding as well to the plastic.

The cure-times listed on the can are for after the cement cures- typically 2 sets of times will be listed - one for handling and one for pressure testing.


Is this an exterior or interior door?

If it's exterior, I'd recommend going with new so you get a good weather seal.

For an interior door, if you can find a good quality used door in a style you like, I don't see a significant disadvantage to getting a used one other than the trouble of making sure it's mounted correctly on the hinges.  If the door frame is included, you'll want to be sure the depth is the same and that it hasn't been cut too short for your flooring.


Can the neutral and hot be split like this?

Looks good - you're not switching the neutral, the loads are all in parallel, and the conductors are kept together.


To wire your lamp to be controlled by 3 or more switches the "middle" switches must be "intermediate" or "cross-over" switches with 4 terminals, which cross the strapping/traveller pair.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiway_switching#More_than_two_locations


How to safely pull Internet cable out of soil?

Couple things here.

There is a good chance you don't have enough cable to do this.  Before even thinking about it you will need to check the slack on both sides.   If there are hooked up outside and then wired inside, there is hardly ever slack to pull an extra couple feet.   It is annoying because I have had to have providers rerun our yard different times.

You have to dig up all the way in one direction, can't just dig up 10 feet and scootch it over.   It will be too tight.

ISP could just come out and run another line...  They might charge you.   If they don't for sure just have them do it.   If they don't maybe you go to another provider and "cut this cord" so new provider has to run cable where you want it.

So this cable if you are in the US and it is not electric, water (you may own this) or gas is your property.   ISP or cable company or dish, they are basically giving you this cable as part of your contract with them.   You own it - you paid for it.   If it goes to a box/dish/whatever to your house, it is yours.   If it is buried going from box to box that is a gray area (you are not liable for cutting it but may have angry neighbors!).
Also note: most ISPs and cable internet companies are not part of 811 dig in an overall way.   They will coordinate with 811 if they think there is a high risk area - they plow a main line right through a group of backyards - but other than that they are only usually coming out and marking if someone dug up something before.


Several ways to fix it.
Install a new cable run from switch to light.
This is pretty much what you propose.
Replace the existing cable chain with /3 cable w/grnd.
Now, you assign colors as follows:

White = neutral
Black = always-hot
Red = switched-hot

Replace the last receptacle with a smart switch "master".
It then controls the light.  This switch is in an ungainly location, so you also install a smart switch "remote" in the desired switch location.  The remote talks to the master via either wireless, or powerline signaling.  I'm thinking of the Insteon family of products here.
Now the wire assignments are black=always-hot and white=neutral.
Ditto, but keep the last recep also.
This would be done 2 ways.  One is by blowing out the receptacle box to a 2-gang box, so both recep and smart switch can lay alongside.
The other is by leaving it a receptacle, and using a smart-switch "faceless module" up in the lamp ceiling rose.  (or for that matter wiring the smart-switch "master" to be right next to the lamp) by adding an appropriate box there).


Is it up to code (anywhere) to have a ground wire poking out the end of a wire nut?

Yes, it's up to code, and you will only find the top hole on green wirenuts that are only used for ground connections.


adding new circuit to generator subpanel without a ground bar

OK, so this thing obviously came as a prefab kit.  You don’t just randomly find brown-white and orange-yellow wires at Home Depot.  That’s the kind of thing you special order when you’re Generac trying to knock together a generator interlock kit that’s at least better than the hokey 8-slot individually switchable ones they usually sell, but need to be able to distinguish 2 dozen wires from each other in a big harness.
Kudos for them getting real panels and all, but yeah - overlooking things like ground bars and knockouts, that’s not a surprise.  This panel is a one-trick pony, it’s designed to be grafted on after-the-fact to an existing panelboard and do this one thing.   SMH...  And for that matter, even the subpanel is an afterthought; the real purpose and meat of this subpanel is in the stuff on the top.  This type of product is designed to work as a guaranteed-to-work bolt-on, so that the generator salesmen can sell it into any system with confidence. It’s not what a good, blank-sheet design would look like.
Given that Siemens’ labeling for this bus assembly is “1212”, there’s a valid question of whether it is UL-listed for double-stuff breakers... though the reason that was ever an issue was CTL, and that’s been repealed, so maybe we file this under “whatevs”.  Just make sure you are using Siemens breakers, and if they won’t fit, use non-CTL breakers.  DO NOT cross over to another brand, unless it’s Eaton CL specifically.
The ground wire
The chassis of this subpanel is grounded to the main panel via the EMT conduit - that’s a valid ground path (or else every CostCo and industrial site would be ungrounded, not likely!)
As to getting a ground wire for your circuit, as appalling as this is, I would bring over a #12 ground wire through that conduit, land it on the ground bar in the main panel, and just wire-nut it to your new circuit’s ground.  So the ground bar is a wire nut, not the end of the world.
Entry into the box
If you want to site a ground bar somewhere in this subpanel, you can put it anywhere you please and screw it into the metal. However you need to drill the holes exactly the right size so you can use self-tapping screws that are -32 thread pitch or finer.  That is so the bar can ground through the case metal.  Without that you’d need to run a ground wire to the main panel’s ground bar.
As for a knockout in the subpanel, check the instructions. It may forbid this, in which case you must follow the instructions.  Otherwise I’ve used a hole saw, but they also make punches.
Honestly, as badly as I’d like to see generator interlock/subpanels that aren’t hokey, I’m still not impressed with this one.  Given your foreseeable ongoing need to expand this, I would install a real subpanel, fed off this subpanel, and actually move all your gen-switched circuits there, as in, pull their Romex out of the main panel and into the new subpanel.  That way, you are able to properly ground, properly match hots and neutrals, support AFCI/GFCI breakers effectively, etc.


Finishing a floor one room at a time is not a recommended practice. It takes several days, if not weeks for the polyurethane to completely cure. During that time, the poly will be off-gassing toxic volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Exposure to VOCs has been linked to many illnesses, and should be limited as much as possible. The VOCs will mostly dissipate within a few days, but there will be a slight odor for several days after that. The poly also will not achieve its full hardness until it fully cures, so you would want to keep traffic at a bare minimum while it is curing. You also want to keep the floors completely clear during this time because it is very easy to damage the finish.

Finishing one room at a time will only prolong the process of curing and out-gassing. The odor for the first couple of days would be nearly unbearable, and it is not recommended to be in the house immediately after the floor has been finished.

If you must do this one room at a time, be sure to keep the room closed off from the rest of the house. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation in the room, and keep the door closed for the first couple of days. You may want to also shove a towel in front of the door to block the fumes. If you have HVAC ducts in the room, those should be blocked off as well, so the fumes don't get blown through the entire house. You can block them off by either taping craft paper over them, or by blocking off the duct itself with a piece of foam, or a towel.

You should also bear in mind that doing one room at a time will make it more expensive to rent the equipment you need such as sanders. It is much cheaper to rent the equipment for a day, and get it all done at once instead of renting it for each room. By the time the dust settles, it may be just as cheap to hire someone to finish your floors professionally. The finished product usually comes out better when it is done by someone with experience. It is easy to damage the floor with the sander, if you aren't careful. Also, if you do not have room in your home to completely empty out these rooms, you can rent one of those portable storage sheds and have it delivered to your home.


What could cause my recessed light to not work?

Any number of things.

Most recessed light fixtures contain what is called a thermal cutout. These cut off the power to the light when the heat from the light exceeds the temperature rating of the fixture.  They go bad.
Sockets go bad
Switches go bad
Loose wire connections inside the fixture.
Loose wire connections behind the switch.
Loose wire connections feeding the switch from another source.
It is not uncommon for a wire staple to penetrate the wire and over time the wire burns up inside the wall.


Irrigation backflow preventer spigot location question.

Do whatever the county official or water company recommends.  Back flow from the spigot should not need protection so as long as the irrigation system cannot flow back to the water source you should be fine.


I see two issues here, and I'd have some significant concerns.

1. Fixing What You See

Repairing these rafters is no big deal, but it looks like there's no access to the space to get to the broken rafters.  You'd likely have to remove and replace the ceiling drywall to repair the rafters, and if that's the case, that's kind of a big deal.  It's easy enough to remove some drywall, but replacing what you remove and repainting it - that's a lot of work.

2. Fixing What You Don't See (Yet)

The greater concern is that there is a structural deficiency, that the roof was not designed properly in the first place.  There could be additional issues not visible to the home inspector.  It looks like that vertical 1x3 might have been added to prop up a sagging roof, then the rafter broke around the propping.

Resolving this could be a lot of work, worst case you'd have to remove the metal corrugated roof, replace / add / upsize rafters and purlins, and put back the metal.

If sagging pulled the roof apart in any spot, it could have caused water damage, which could have caused mold ... big can of worms.


You may have already done this but not sure from your question. When testing the thermostats be aware that you must test the input and output sides. A thermostat is really just a switch. First be sure you have 240VAC on the input sides across the hot leads and 120VAC from each leg to ground. Now connect to the load or element side across the element and look for 240VAC as you turn on and off the thermostat. If you have an AMPROBE, confirm current flow when the thermostat is turned to the highest temp position, indicating current flow through the element, and conversely no current when the temp is satisfied. If the voltages are good on both sides of the thermostat, but no current, it is safe to assume the element is bad. If you do not get the changes in voltage at the load side when operating the thermostat min to max etc. the thermostat is bad.
Have you drained the heater? Large amounts of sediment can indicate fouled elements or a partially plugged dip/transfer tube. Be sure to turn off power before draining and refill the tank before turning electricity back on.
 You can also find a toll free number for tech assistance online for all Whirlpool products and should be able to reach a real person in tech assistance that will help walk you through it. not sure if they will do that for the user, but they do that for us contractors all the time.  Good luck.


Mendota FV44i LP Gas fireplace insert won't stay on, it cycles off after awhile, then on

If remote is in 'smart' mode, it will cycle the flame to maintain the selected temperature. If remote is too near the fireplace, it will heat up quickly, turn off, cool and turn back on for a little while until it heats back up. Try moving the remote further from the unit while it's lit.


How good do I need to make my primer coat?

I find that primer dries so fast that you have to do the job quickly, but it's worth it in the long run to get it somewhat even: any time saved by doing a poor job of priming will be more than made up for trying to get the finish coats looking good.

The primer coat doesn't have to be perfect, but it should cover the surface (no bare spots) and it shouldn't be so blotchy that you get drips or visible unevenness.


Removing router bit that is stuck with damaged shaft

While the other answer is correct in normal conditions - that is the purpose of the pin.
I would use a bar that fits into the hole in that shaft and a properly fitting wrench as if it has been overtightened it will need some force to undo it.
Using the normal mechanism relies on the strength of the aluminum casting which may break under these conditions. And looking at the first picture it looks as if that casting is already cracked so take care.


If (as seems likely, but you don't tell us what TV you have) the HDMI on the TV is (are) all inputs, you will have to use optical (or some other audio - coaxial digital, for instance) output.

If the TV has HDMI outputs, you might be able to rig something where one of those goes to an input on the reciver, but that might not work with having the picture on the TV screen, depending how it's set up.

BTW: Don't fall (seriously) for gold-plated optical cables - the working part of the TOSlink optical cable is a plastic fiber optic. They don't need to cost much, but some sharpies have preyed on the "audiophool" market and produced (uselessly) gold-plated versions to part phools from their money. Cheap ones work just as well...


Should this retaining wall have drainage

We try to be helpful on this site and that means that sometimes we post things which are not any direct answer to the question. This posting is one of those times.

You do need to get this fixed:

This is surely a safety violation in almost any jurisdiction and the extra strain on the wires could result in circuit failure.


Does 3/4” pex supply enough water for a house

Not a calculated method, but if that home is yours and you're planning to spend a good few years in it, I would put in the 1" main PEX to water heater and as you go to edge water outlets of the house, convert that 1" to 3/4". The cost of 1" vs 3/4" isn't too drastic and having the extra capacity, especially to the water heater will help with pressure issues. 3/4" post water heater is good, unless you have 8+ hot drops.
If that home is a builder home and used for investment or you're trying to minimize the cost, do the calculation on needed flow and capacity. Most of the time 3/4" is good for smaller homes.
Regarding manifolds, all builders that I've seen do not use main manifolds and just use tee's and split off the main pex. It appears, labor wise, its less work and less cost since the manifold adds a few hundred to the project and creates further runs but you lose the ability to shut off each drop.


I'd see no reason it can't be? Lutron Caseta light switches have remote controls if you have line of sight to the switch. They also come in a HomeKit version if you don't. So long as you get the amperage right - go for it. With the HomeKit versions, you could be outside by the pool, possibly out of wifi range and still turn it on over cellular data.

We have 3 of the HomeKit ones in the house and they work really well and are fairly easy to setup. It's nice to leave for work early in the morning when it's dark out; turn on the first floor lights as I'm getting dressed and not have to walk through a dark house, step on a cat, etc...


How to stack and store old pressure treated fence boards

The answer is that it depends on the exact method of pressure treatment (did the chemical penetrate to the center of the wood or not) and the current state of deterioration. The main thing to protect the wood from is water; you want to keep it as dry as possible, by both preventing large amounts of water washing over it, and also small amounts of water remaining in contact long-term. Water washes away the bug-repelling copper compounds used to treat the wood. So, stacking the wood in a sheltered area (like your shed) with some spacing between boards (you can stack them in a loose grid if you have the floor space, or cut the worst pieces up into roughly square pieces you can use as spacers) should allow the wood the best chance.

Now, this is if the wood is in good enough shape to save. You may think so, but if the wood has already been penetrated by WDIs, the protection offered by the PT chemicals is likely past its expiration date. This is normal for fences; they're out in the elements, and unfortunately the copper compounds used are water soluble, which is how they get them into the wood in the first place (kiln-dry it, then immerse it in a bath of copper arsenide and ramp up the pressure to force the chemical-laden water into the grain). If the wood was well-treated, with green all the way to the core, the parts that haven't already been savaged by WDIs should stay good, but if you cut a board in half and see white wood in the center, termites and carpenter ants can eat that board from the inside out. If you see grey-brown all the way in, rot has taken hold and the board is garbage.

One last thing; whatever you do, DO NOT BURN PRESSURE-TREATED LUMBER. Not in your fireplace, not in your wood stove, not in an outdoor fire pit, not in a bonfire, not anywhere. Burning PT lumber, no matter how weathered and degraded, will release toxic, polluting smoke; the primary chemical used in PT lumber is copper arsenide, which oxidizes when burned to produce arsenic. In addition to the normal harmful effects of wood smoke inhalation, the amount of arsenic in 12 ft of 2x6" PT can kill 250 adult humans. A single 6' 1-by fence slat would still have enough to kill you and your family about 10 times over. If you don't breathe it in, it'll dissolve in the moisture in the air and be carried up to the clouds where it will fall as acid rain.


Can I move the location of the well equipment?

It is likely there is a pressure tank in the hole also. Depending on the well depth their could also be a surface pump (shallow well) and there should be a local disconnect. It is possible to move everything But because there is a slab the cost is going to be higher. If you just don't like the cover you will still need the well head to be accessible but from the photo it could be ~1/3 the size. It would be a good idea to know what is in the hole.


How to repair leaking cemented crack in basement wall?

Water will always win if you "fix" these from the inside.

The correct, effective, and unfortunately expensive fix is to excavate outside and drain the water below wall level outside, then seal and drain the exterior of the wall to the exterior drain.

You may choose to chisel out this mess and try fixing from the inside again, but it will almost certainly fail again. The other inside approach is to "capture" the leak and lead it to a sump.

If tilting at the windmill, this image from "www.oldhouseweb.com" illustrates the correct shape for chiseling or diamond-blade cutting out the crack before attempting to re-fill it. At the bottom of their page they note that their information came from Michagan State University Extension publication E2109, and the image would appear to also have come from that publication originally.


How can I patch a hole in this brick wall?

You can patch it with hydraulic cement similar to this type

You need to carefully remove all loose material and clean the area. The cement is fast setting and expands slightly as it sets, making a tight seal. Only mix as much as you can use in a few minutes.


Can any deadbolt be made to work without an outer lock?

What you're looking for is easily and cheaply available.  The relevant keywords are "one sided deadbolt" or "keyless deadbolt".

Home Depot, for example, has a selection of them that start at $7.

If you already have a deadbolt you want to use, some companies sell a conversion kit to replace the keyway with a blank plate.  Here's one from Kwikset.  However, that's more expensive than just buying a new one sided deadbolt, so I'm not sure I see the point.


My shutters attach horizontally over the window. No track required. You may have to see a specialty hurricane shutter shop for these though. 1 tip from personal experience, spend the extra money to get aluminum shutters, they make installation much easier. It would also be in your best interest to see what types of shutters are recommended by your insurance company, and check your local municipality for permit requirements.


Hole in subfloor under stove: Do I fix? If so do I put flooring over it?

I would replace the subfloor by floating some scrap lumber under two edges of the opening and screwing them in place. Then screw down the patch.

I'd then run tile down both sides of the stove opening and halfway back from the front, but leave the patched area uncovered in case you need later access.

This gives you the impression of a completed floor from the front and through any gaps along the sides of the stove.


Can I route a drain pipe under a gas line?

If it's standard ABS drain pipe, I don't see any reason why this couldn't be done. Your gas line is metal. As long as the plastic stays below it it should be fine. I would contact the gas company and just double check that they're kosher with it. Be sure to call the local utility dig locator and have them mark things too, or you'll be liable for damages.


Basement Flooding suddenly. It looks like I have a French drain. Why is it still flooding?

The french drain has to empty someplace.  Perhaps that path has gotten plugged up.


This is your main panel, so neutral can be landed on either of the N/G busbars

Since you are working in your main panel, where your service disconnect lives (in fact, I can tell offhand from the construction shown in your photo that this is a meter main device we are looking at, so it can't be anything else besides your main panel), you can land the white neutral wire on either the left-hand or the right-hand neutral bar.  This is because the neutral and ground are bonded together here (and only here!), so the busbars down the sides do "double duty" as neutral and grounding bars as a result.

Send that alien back whence it came!

However, that's not the only thing you need to do.  That Square-D HOM115 you put in for the new circuit has no business whatsoever being in a Siemens meter-main, so you'll need to remove it and return it, then install a Siemens Q115 in its place.  Once that's done, you can wire up the circuit as described already, with white and bare to separate holes on the neutral (grounded) bars, and black to the breaker lug.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

Last but not least, you will want to use an inch-pound torque screwdriver to tighten the busbar and breaker connection setscrews to their labeled tightening torques.  This is required by 2017 NEC 110.14(D), and is a good idea anyway, since the performance of set-screw type connections depends rather critically on proper torquing.  You don't want your new outlet to give you the loose lugnut now, do you?


How can I wire several receptacles between three-way switches so they're half switched?

Since OP has indicated that wiring is accessible via an attic crawl space, here is a solution that requires adding another run of 12/3 between the two switch boxes. The currents in each cable are balanced, no box has more than three wire nuts, and neutral is available at one of the switches.

Add a 12/3 run from one switch box to the other. This doesn't need to go anywhere near the outlet boxes, and certainly should not add to the outlet box fills by passing through them.
Feed the constant-hot to the far switch via the new cable. In the diagram I used the red wire so that each switch would have three different colors on its terminals. This should be marked with black paint or tape to indicate it is now constant-hot.
Use the other two wires as travelers back to the near switch. These should be marked with yellow paint or tape to indicate they are now travelers. This completes a standard three-way switch loop which is completely independent from the outlet runs.
Now in the near switch box you have neutral, constant-hot, and switched-hot. Distribute these to the outlets via the 12/3 segments in the usual fashion.
The switch loop current is confined to the long 12/3 and is balanced, and the outlets current is confined to the distribution 12/3 segments and is balanced.
Do NOT use the existing last 12/3 segment to provide a neutral connection at the far switch box. Remove that segment (don't just cap it off, rip it out) so that no future maintainer will attempt to use it and accidentally create an unbalanced circuit.


Couple problems I see. First is the textured ceiling. You'll never be able to open that up and patch it without being obvious, the texture is something that just isn't done these days. Second, the exterior wall should have insulation in it, so you'll end up fishing the line through insulation and the vapor barrier.

Instead, I'd suggest running the line around the floor if you can get it to a convenient wall anywhere in that room. Use some fasteners to keep the cable at the base of the wall to run it around the room:


2nd story, walk under, completely brick deck

The problem is how to span the gap.

Bricks and the mortar joining them are strong in compression but weak in tension. So you can't really build a thin flat deck out of them. You could build arches but it would seriously cut into the space under the deck and a lot of fill material would be needed to bring the top of the arches to a flat surface.


Why did my circuit blow after replacing a switch?

There are only a few possible causes:

The newish switch was not wired correctly.  I think this is the most probable cause:  anything recently changed and not working should be reviewed.  Maybe there is a stray strand of wire between the switched terminal and ground, or some wiring fault in the lights.  If any of these are the problem, turning on the switch will trip the breaker even if the dehumidifier and other devices are off.  That is, turning on only this switch is enough to blow the breaker.
The breaker has derated itself—that is, it is marginally defective.  This happens sometimes, especially with heavily loaded circuits.   Breakers get hot, or if they are tripped many times they can experience something similar to heat fatigue.
The load has increased:  more bulbs or more wattage, or the humidifier is using more power.  Many electrical systems do not provide steady voltage.  If it has increased recently, from say 114 to 122 volts, that might be just enough to increase the power to where the breaker should trip.

If it were me, I would

Shut off the circuit
Pull the "new" switch and examine it for physical problems.
Use a DMM to check for continuity between the black wire and ground: there should be none—that is, the ohms should be infinite.
Disconnect the white wires (should be a wire nut in the switchbox) and check for continuity between white going to the lights and ground: should be none.  The ohms between the white wire going to the breaker panel and ground should be close to 0.0.
Check the resistance of the light circuit with the DMM between black and white.  For 120 watts incandescent @ 120V, should be 8–10 ohms (cold tungsten has its resistance of about one fifteenth its hot temperature).

If the problem had not been found after that, I would reconnect the white wires (undo step 4), turn on the breaker, and put a clamp-on A.C. ammeter (actually an analog meter would be better for this test) to measure the current on a black wire, and turn the switch on.  It can either spike strongly or not at all.  Strongly is bad and means there is a fault in the wiring or fixtures.  Not at all means more tracing of wire, perhaps from the circuit breaker panel is needed.


I would start with a basic hand operated drain snake. In a tub drain you likely have a hair clog, the snake will grab onto this clog and pull it right out. A very basic snake should be all you need.


How do I add a commercial coffee maker to my fridge's water line?

There's typically a solenoid valve right down at the bottom where the supply line from your house connects to the fridge, and this valve is activated by the ice maker when it needs more water.

Unfortunately, you've tapped in half-way up the back of the fridge - after the solenoid valve - so as a result, your coffee machine is only going to receive water for the brief period that the ice-maker in your fridge refills in between ice-making cycles.

You need to put that coupler back where you found it and instead find a way to tap into the water line which supplies your fridge from the wall.


How do I get rid of water streaks on my bathroom wall?

What that needs is a good scrubbing with warm soapy water. If the paint comes off because it is old or because it is no longer durable enough to survive a good scrubbing... then it needed repainting anyway. Use a high quality gloss or semi-gloss paint if you do it.


Can I connect 12ga wire for a gas range to 10ga wire from the service panel?

As long as you have the right configuration of conductors yes, you can use a wire bigger than necessary. Be sure to change the circuit breaker to match the circuit and receptacle required.
Remember, you CANNOT have a "standard" 15 or 20 amp receptacle on a 30A breaker.


Does a subpanel ground need to be insulated wire

No insulation is required.  However grounding to a rod is not enough, you must also run a ground wire back to the supply.

Dirt is a poor conductor and you can't expect it to return the 100 amps + that it must to assure a breaker trip during a ground fault.  When it can't, it will not trip and leave a condition where all your grounds are energized at line voltage.


No. You're being sold a big scam. Where is the heat going? If it's a machine that generates electricity inside and has no connection to the outside, it's going to increase the amount of heat in the building. If it's an HRV or ERV system that exchanges and filters outside air, that's a different kettle of fish, but those systems are also not going to cool the house at all.

If you want it cooler in your apartment, consider actual cooling systems, better shading, radiant barriers, or more insulation.


How can I bolt a microwave to the upper cabinet if the bolt hole is stripped?

If the microwave is under warranty then get a replacement telling them it's a manufacturing defect, if not then you can do what you want with it so my course of action would be to remove the cover and see what my options are. The metal covers on microwaves are generally pretty easy to get off, a few screws and they slide off, getting them back on is the reverse process. Working with the cover on is challenging because you don't want metal shavings getting into the electronics or tools to damage it while you're working.

I like your nut on the underside idea, it's simple and the least work once you have the cover off, unless you can borrow a tap and die set and re-cut the thread. You could try that with the cover on of course, however small shavings of metal will get into the microwave from that, which could lead to a short. Epoxy on the top is not a great course because it's probably painted, you'd be gluing onto the paint instead of metal, so you'd want to sand a clean surface if you tried that. It might hold or it might not, and if it were me I'd be constantly worried it was going to drop on me.

There are other options, for instance a toggle bolt:

If you can find one of these that's small enough to fit through the hole, and if there's enough space behind the hold you could push one it through and use it to hold it up, just be aware you wouldn't be able to get it back out again without taking the cover off. Personally I'd use that as a last option, my first would be to get the cover off, just be careful about your own safety around the electronics.


Can I use a single air gap for a reverse osmosis system and a dishwasher?

You have two options which are equally acceptable.

Option one is a dual inlet air gap. It provides two inlets - one for dishwasher, and another for a water purification system. Installation is straight forward - you remove the existing air gap and put the new one in its place. You can find such a device here.

Your other option is to purchase a faucet for your water filter that includes a built-in air gap, such as this. Note that if you go this route, you will have two drain lines that both need to connect to the garbage disposal. You can accomplish this by using a wye fitting to join the two drain lines into one line, which you would then connect to the disposal. A barbed wye fitting should be available at your local home improvement store for a minimal cost. Don't forget the hose clamps.

The links I provided are not affiliate links so I do not get paid if you purchase after click through.


venting dryer into unused lined chimney flue

If you check the dryer installation instructions, you likely will not find any specifications for venting thru the roof. It is generally not recommended. I know my dryer blows a decent amount of lint out the vent. I can't imagine the dryer being able to push the lint out of a 30 foot chimney. I would vent it with rigid duct thru the closest wall.


Can I use the fridge still without plumbing in water,model Electrolux ERES31800W

In general, plumbing water to a fridge is only required in order to use the ice maker and water dispensing features. You can use it as a fridge with just electricity connected.

Typically, there is an easy way to shut off the ice maker. If you don't have water connected you should do that in order to reduce possible wear on electric valves and other parts. You may also be able to disconnect and temporarily remove the ice maker so you can use the space it would take for other purposes.


Breaker Tripping - Need advice on upgrade

I would suggest the high-end audio be on a separate circuit than power supplies. I would run 2 20 amp circuits to this location. By separating the audio equipment from the power supplys you may avoid some electrical noise caused by harmonics that most powersupplys generate. Just my 2cents worth...


Which kitchen appliances can be grouped on the same circuit?

It's pretty much all dependent on wattage
For the five kitchen appliances (and one lighting system) described in your post, the answer boils down entirely to wattage/amperage draw, as there are no specific requirements in the NEC for any of them to be on dedicated circuits; the fridge could be on a small appliance (kitchen countertop receptacle) branch circuit, and the remaining appliances can be on individual circuits or combined together as wattage permits; likewise, while the undercabinet lights can't be on a kitchen countertop circuit, they can go on any general lighting and appliance branch circuit that has the wattage to spare.
However, there are some constraints.  Dishwashers, disposals, and microwaves all tend to be power-hungry beasts, meaning that you're going to have a hard time fitting even two of the three on the same branch circuit, and putting all three together on a single circuit is a non-starter.  The fridge is the other constraint; if it's not on a kitchen countertop branch circuit, it must be on its own circuit, not a general lighting circuit.  Given all this, I would look at pairing the dishwasher and disposal, if feasible, and also at putting the range hood and the undercabinet lights on the same circuit, given that you don't need a colossal commercial-style range hood to deal with domestic cooking needs, even if you have a jumbo range.  (Commercial hoods are as beastly as they are because they have to keep air pollutants within OSHA limits throughout a restaurant cook's eight-hour shift despite near-continuous use of the appliance beneath them.)  The microwave and fridge then wind up on their own circuits.
As to wiring methods, while there's nothing in Code that depends on that factor, the judicious use of individual THHN wires in ENT conduit ("smurf tube") can provide a major upgradeability benefit down the road.  This is particularly handy in hard-to-upgrade spots, like when feeding the dishwasher and disposal, or for kitchen islands for that matter.  You'll also have to make sure that you don't violate the 80% maximum total load rule for fixed cord-and-plug loads and the 50% maximum total load rule for fixed hardwired loads on convenience circuits (i.e. circuits that serve receptacles and/or lighting).


How do I build a deck that is easy to take apart?

My first thought would be to build the deck in individual 4x8 sections.  So you build a frame out of 2x4's or 2x6's with one sheet of plywood on top and the insulation pre-installed between the framing members.

You would then set up your concrete piers and beams that would support the sections.  If you use 2x4 framing for the pre-built sections, you would need more beams and piers, but the individual sections would also be lighter and more easily man-portable.  Place the pre-built sections on top of the joists and screw them together from underneath.

When you disassemble, you just unscrew the pre-built sections from each other and the joists, take them out in one piece, and stack them on a trailer.  Being 4x8, they are the perfect size to fit in just about any trailer or pickup truck and not too heavy for one or two guys to handle.  Once those are removed, you can disassemble the beams and piers.


Remove Fastener Nut for Kitchen Faucet (Rusted?)

You might find a monobloc tap wrench that fits. They are designed for reaching up behind a basin.

Or a conventional box-wrench set, though I'd guess they are usually not long enough. You can use a normal 1/2" drive socket set to extend one.

If you are replacing the tap, you could use a rotary tool (e.g. Dremel) or similar to cut off the bottom part of the threaded tube to gain access to the nut at the top without interference from the connector at the bottom.

  the nut that is hold that brass plate has corroded.

Clearly, water has been leaking through. You might just have limescale deposits that can be cleaned off with a limescale remover and perhaps with a wire brush (perhaps using a rotary tool again)


Your design (2x10’s at 12” oc spanning 20’-8”) will support about 38 lbs. per square foot for #2s and about 55 lbs. per square foot for #1s, depending on the species. (I used Douglas Fir-Larch.)

I’m assuming the joists will fasten to the ledger with joist hangers...not sit on the ledger.  So, I’d recommend a single 2x10 ledger (not a double), but it depends on the joist hangers you use. (The nails furnished with Simpson joist hangers are short and stubby. That’s because they take all the load in shear...and none in withdrawal.) You only need a single ledger, because you can fasten into a series of studs and a continuous double top plate...no spanning large openings.

Therefore, each joist will need a joist hanger that supports about 400 lbs. for #2s and about 575 lbs. at each end. Likewise, you’ll need lag bolts that support about the same per foot. I’d use 1/2” x 4” lag bolt at about 12” oc. Best practices would call for the lags to be staggered along the ledger, but keep them a minimum of 2” from the edge of the ledger.

Please note that this does not account for any seismic loading. If you live in a seismic zone, you may want to re-think this design, because the lags do not comply with withdrawal requirements for seismic requirements.

Also, please note that the design loads are TOTAL LOADS. You’ll need to subtract the dead load (about 5 lbs. per square foot) from those design loads to give you an allowable live load. (Live loads are the things you’re storing.)


The AC input circuits of some devices use a power line filter circuit that works to keep high frequency stuff inside the equipment and prevent fast spikes from entering the product from the power lines.

The schematic of a typical power line filter looks like this.

The two capacitors that you see in the filter from line side to earth and from the neutral side to earth can form a voltage divider for AC voltage and place approximately half the line voltage on the earth wire. This would be the case for instances where the earth ground connection was open circuit.

Normally this is not a shock hazard issue because the neutral wire is shorted to the earth ground connection at the power panel.

The fact that you found this AC signal present demonstrates that some part of your house wiring has a open earth ground wire someplace. For the safety of your self and your family it is essential to get this fault corrected. The floating earth wire is an invite to it not performing its safety function when you least expect to need that safety feature.


How can I tell if these pipes are gas lines or water lines?

You should be able to tell by the color, and connections used.
Gas
"Black pipe" is commonly used for natural gas, and is dark grey/black.

All connections will be threaded.

Water
Water lines come in a variety of materials, some of the most common are.
Copper
This will be um... copper, in color.

While there are other ways to join copper pipes, the most common is solder.

Galvanized
Galvanized pipes will be a light grey.

And use threaded connections similar to black pipe.

Plastics
You might also find various types of plastic-ish water pipes. These can come in a variety of colors. Red, blue, white, black, etc.

These may use compression type connections, crimp connections, or various other type or connectors.

Still can't decide?
Try using your other senses.
Touch the pipe.
If it's warm to the touch, it's likely hot water (may not be warm unless hot water was recently used). Hold the pipe and have a helper turn a nearby tap on/off quickly, to see if you can feel vibrations. Try running the water for a bit, then touch the pipe to see if the temperature changes. If the pipe gets colder/hotter, it's likely a water line.
Listen to the pipe.
Put your ear to the pipe, and again have a helper turn on a nearby tap. If you hear the water clearly in the pipe, you found yourself a water line. (make sure the pipe is not in contact with any other pipes when you do this, since sound could be transferred to the other pipe). This is not the most accurate method, but it can sometimes work.
Taste the pipe.
This won't help you at all. I just pictured people licking pipes in my head, and thought it was funny. You could tell your helper to do it, and then laugh at them when they do it. But it's not going to help you figure out what the pipe is.


Great question. Adding this addition requires a really good, deep, compacted base. I would isolate it from the building by 1/2 inch, but if the base is good, rebar to the existing pad will help stop any displacement. You have to expect some settling, but the better the base, the smaller the amount. Web rebar won't help much, but 3/8 or 1/2 inch bar will hold the joint. The trick will be compact, wet, compact, wet. Make it rock hard. Good luck.


How can I prevent water from entering through water heater/furnace exhaust vent?

While looking at the cap, it's probably worthwhile taking a look at the caulking between the crown and your flue, and or flue-cap, which may have eroded.  This needs to be looked at about every year or two (more or less frequently depending on your local habitat, but both extremes in hot and cold weather will help age caulk, rot brick, etc.)


How to open this recessed faucet aerator? It seems very hidden inside!

From the original posted picture, it appears that you have the type that needs an aerator wrench.
See link below
aerator with wrench
To remove the aerator, without the specific wrench, try using a pin wench.
The aerator is inside the faucet, so you will not be able to use slip grip, etc. on the outside.
Those two notches are what you have to grap to be able to twist the aerator off.  By luck, a very thin long nose plier may be able to work.
The wrench cost about a $1 at HD or Lowes.

This is where the notches would be located based on original pictures. The notches would be located inside the rim.

Your image showing location of notches.
Sorry If I mislead you,  After closer exam of the side view, maybe this in not a notched aeration.  Can you provide a complete picture of the side view of the end of the facuet.

1: https://www.zoro.com/american-standard-aerator-metering-brass-m962393-0020a/i/G0853912/


Connecting a hose to a 3/8 compression fitting

Not knowing what your valves under your sink look like , I would suggest possibly a new valve with 2 ports or the addition of a T  on a 3/8 fitting then you could find a pre made hose like you want for a Refrigerator, this can feed your waterer.

I would want an independent shut off incase of problems,
my plumbing speciality store could set up all the parts needed and suggest things like an extra valve just in case by using a photo of your existing under sink set up. They may cost a few dollars more but 1 trip ends up saving time and frustration in the long run compared to the big box stores , the big box may have what you need but getting the correct help sometimes it tough.


is there maximum of live wires allowed in one conduit

There are two conduit factors:

Thermal derate

Yes, overheating is an issue, but the limitations don't really start to pinch until you have more than four circuits.

Generally in a split-phase system, the rule of thumb is 2 wires per circuit (a circuit being something powered from one breaker where all handle(s) throw together) ... unless for some reason current is making 2 round trips down the pipe.

More precisely, you count the number of "wires" with some exceptions.  Grounds are not counted. In residential split-phase, neutrals in MWBCs or 120/240V circuits are not counted, because current flow on them means less current is flowing on another wire.

Broadly, wires which split current from the same breaker are counted as one.   In a fan+lamp circuit where one hot feeds two switched-hots, the two switched-hots count as one wire.  Something to think about if you don't actually have 6 breakers feeding this.

If your adjusted wire count in a single pipe <= 9, no de-rate is necessary for 15-30A branch circuits provided you are using 90C rated wire (THHN or THWN-2 or XHHW-2 or several others).

If you have 10-20 active wires, you must de-rate the wires as follows:

wires on a 15A breaker must be #12
wires on a 20A breaker must be #10
wires on a 30A breaker must be #8 Cu or #6 aluminum.

In turn, the larger wires require larger pipe.

Conduit fill

For this, you can use any common web calculator.  You appear to be fine for 12 wires in 3/4” EMT up to #10 wire.


Why not build it around a specific model?  Refrigerators are made to be long-lasting, almost like a fixture, not something that changes frequently and needs a universally-sized nook.  If you pick a fridge now, you can get its exact dimensions and ventilation clearance requirements and build your enclosure to those specs.  What if you picked "standard" dimensions now, and then select your dream refrigerator only to find it won't fit?


What should I do about a stubborn screw on the middle of a dryer cord connection?

The important thing about the electric cord is that all connections be tight, so if the screw will hold then using a washer to pack the gap so that the connector is pressed against the conductor would create a safe connection.


Refinished Rusty Railings Already Rusted!

Not an uncommon problem.  Most of those metal railings are made of wroght iron, which is a very soft steel.  When you sand them off and don't level the "pits", the rust will come back time after time.  It is absolutely necessary to clean out all the "pits" as much as possible, then treat the area with a rust converter before priming to paint.  Rust converters are available at all home stores and help change oxides to a harden non corrosive substance. Read the directions and apply accordingly.  Difficult problem, sorry, steel railings are problem children.


What should I use to seal the joints between two pieces of concrete backer board in a bathroom?

Detail the existing backer board so there is no thinset left at all, you will need that room for the new thinset. Tape off the areas you don't want caulk on and use any caulk that will bridge the gap in the sheets, and cover with a liquid applied membrane meant for showers. Set your tile.


No, in fact most motion detectors require a switch to be able to take advantage of the override function they have. Typically, flipping the switch off and back on a number of times puts a motion detector light into override mode.


No those anchors will NOT be sufficient to hold up THAT shelf. Those shelf brackets are too short and there will be a LARGE pulling force on the upper screw.

Assuming from the image that's a 10 inch shelf and the screws at 2 inches apart, hanging 79lbs on the edge of the shelf will get you a whopping

  395 LBS of pull force on the top screw.

When you look at that picture and look at the metal end, does it remind you of any tool that is sitting on top of your toolbox? A claw-hammer perhaps?

You may get away with the type of anchor that mushrooms out behind the wall as shown below. Remembering to buy the size that matches your drywall thickness. But I do NOT recommend these either for that shelf.

With the shortness of that bracket, I'd still be concerned that was not enough to hold up much weight. If those fail, it is going to pull down a rather large piece of drywall too.

Personally I would be inclined to add a backer board out of a nice piece of wood, the wider the better, using one of the following two methods.

Option 1: Outboard screws... Board cut to fit to next stud width. In your case 3 (Don't forget to add a 2x4 width.). Mount board to studs then centre shelf on the wood.

Option 2.: Inboard Screws. Cut board to about 1 inch wider than the shelf. Then centre the board on the studs as shown in the image below.

Which method is best?

Use the method that gets the screws in the wood closest to the screws in the brackets. However, be aware that with the "inboard screws" method, the end of the board will tend to pull away from the wall if the screws are too far away from the brackets.

If the boards spans more than two studs, I'd add another couple of screws  at each stud.

If you, or the Mrs, don't like the visible screws, use one of the many capping or plugging methods.


Probably not. For a definitive answer you can bet your house on (which you will be doing), consult a licensed civil/structural engineer.

The "white post" does not fulfill the same function that the "red beam" does (making strong/rigid triangles to resist forces from the roof loads.)


Where do I connect a C-wire on my Honeywell TrueZone board?

According to the install instructions, the zone board has dedicated R and C power terminals which should be connected to the corresponding transformer wires from the furnace, or to a dedicated 24VAC transformer if the furnace's transformer is not being used.  If your furnace doesn't provide a C wire (typically blue), update your post with pictures of the setup and we can provide more help.


One thermostat with a switch to control 2 heating systems

You just need a multi pole switch. If you are using a T-stat that uses batteries you may only be using two wires to actuate the circuit.

In that case get a double pole double throw switch. (If you are using three wires you will need a triple pole double throw.)

Like this one.

Connect your thermostat to the center terminals and the boiler and the wood burner to each of the other pairs of terminals. Then switch back and forth to your heart's content.

Good luck!


toilet handle prevents flapper from closing sometimes

Turns out I needed to tighten the handle.  It was allowing the handle arm to descend "all the way to the ground" which happens to interfere with the flapper.  But these handles are apparently designed in such a way that they aren't supposed to allow the handle "get too low ever" so if your handle is "pointing straight down" you have a problem.  Mine was fixed by tightening it up again.

Requisite diagram to show arm vs. handle:


Why does my furnace have a yellow termainal?

Y turns the fan on

Gas furnaces are fairly autonomous with regards to how they handle controlling their blower (vs. electrically heated air handlers, which require the thermostat to manage the blower for them).  This is to provide for proper thermal management of the heat exchanger, and also for historical backward compatibility with two-wire heating-only thermostats such as those found in old buildings.

As a result of this, the furnace needs to know when the air conditioner is engaged in order to run the blower so that the cool air can circulate (and the indoor coil doesn't freeze, for that matter).  This is done by having a connection from the Y signal to the furnace fan relay (either physically on older furnaces, or logically on newer ones with a control board), so that the fan comes on (on cooling speed if a multispeed or ECM blower is present) whenever cooling is called for.


Use Sonoff thermostat TH10 in one room to control a Sonoff Basic in another room

Sure is, but the TH10/15 is not a thermostat, but rather a thermistor. And setup depends on how you plan to control them, IFTTT, ewelink, Google Home, Amazon Alexa.....

Best to check in those forums.


Should I upgrade 2x6 attic floor joists by sistering some or all with 2x8s?

I suspect where they are screwed together, they overlap and there's a load bearing wall beneath.  Is that correct?

You say the span of the joists is "probably 6 feet" but that the critical measurement.  If they're really only 6' long, 2x6's at 16" on center are fine, in fact they'll go a bit further under normal conditions.

If they are older dimensional lumber, back when a 2x6 was actually 2" by 6", they'll go even further.

Have you noticed any deflection (bounciness) or sag?


Replace light fixture ceiling box between levels

A sawzall should make quick work of this. If you don't have one and know no one that does, they can be rented. There are also handles that clamp onto hacksaw blades so you sort of have a small, manual sawzall. It will take some work, but you will be able to cut enough that the remainder can be twisted off or chiseled aside.

If done carefully and methodically, a dremel tool can do much of the work without starting a fire. Try to direct the cut so that the sparks are ejected mostly downwards. Stop often and check the area for signs of burning. Have a spray bottle handy to quench any embers, as well as a fire extinguisher just to be safe. When finished cutting, spritz the area with water and check the area frequently for the next hour for any signs of embers developing.

Finally, depending on the finish, cutting and patching the ceiling is not that big a deal, then you can ensure the new box is properly supported instead of relying on the little tabs of the old work box and ceiling material for support.


Two Stage Propane Regulator with Splitter

Yes you can split after the first regulator.
You may need to upsize the regulator as on demand water heaters are high usage devices if your current regulator is 75k btu snd you add a 50k water heater there is not enough for other devices but it can be done.


Can I use different brands of Polyurethane on a single project?

I would keep them the same if it's not too inconvenient.

Different manufacturers (and even different batches from the same manufacturer) may have different drying properties (the Satin may come out differently).  They may also have trouble adhering to one another which would lead to cracking between layers and may also yellow differently, producing a blotchy effect later on especially in areas that didn't cover well.

Your safest bet would have been to buy as much poly as you needed and mix them all together before you started in a seperate container. If you expect the bookshelf to last more than five years then go get the same stuff. Otherwise, it probably doesn't matter.


Part name identification help - WinkHaus side locks?

According to WinkHaus, I believe the parts you are talking about are named as follows (quoted material)

The Winkhaus roller cam
Cotter pin locking systems are an
easy-to-install alternative for main or secondary entrance doors made
of wood or plastic. The lock has up to four additional drawing points
and thereby guarantees a tighter seal and improved protection against
opening of the door by force.
The roller cams, adjustable manually,
allow the door situation to be adapted accordingly and thus facilitate
optimum locking. This allows door design tolerances to be balanced
out.
Winkhaus mushroom pin
The mushroom pins slide behind the
security keep when the door is bolted. This prevents the door leaf and
frame from being pulled apart horizontally. The contact pressure can
be conveniently adjusted using a hexagon socket. This guarantees easy
bolting and high door movement in the frame - a major plus for
security and tightness at the door element.


How can I prevent water buildup in a pit for a trampoline?

As long as she doesn't lower the frame of the trampoline itself, then she's fine there. Any kind of wall should be within the diameter of the trampoline frame or very close to it, nothing closer than the frame's inner diameter & nothing beyond the frame's outer diameter. Eliminating fall off & reducing overall fall height is good. But, many trampolines come with retention nets.

You're precisely right though, digging a pit for it will collect & hold water. She'll need to pump water out or install a catch basin that's piped for immediate drainage. If she can cut it into a downslope or hillside, then the pit must drain slightly downhill & out of a the backside or have an open trench outlet dug or a large pipe poked through any remaining hill.


How can I make my bed non-box-spring frame stop squeaking?

The frame is squeaking because two pieces of wood are rubbing against eachother.  The first thing I would do is start tightening any screws, nuts and bolts on the bed frame.  If this does not improve it you will need to locate where the squeak is coming from and determine if you can do something to hold the two components together better, such as driving a screw through the affected area.


What is the third pipe leading to my water heater?

Here's my guess. The left pipe goes to the hot water faucet of a fixture with a common hot+cold spout. Since there is no hot water pressure at that faucet, when you open both faucets some of the cold water comes out the spout and some flows backward through the hot water faucet and spills out the left pipe.

The left pipe may also connect to the hot faucets of some other sinks. The center pipe may connect to other hot faucets, or it may be a drain.

If you can't trace the pipes inside the walls, you will need to force something to flow through the pipes so you can find where it comes out. The simplest thing to use would be water from a garden hose, or a hose temporarily connected to the cold water supply in your photo. Trim and smooth the ends of the pipes and use a flexible coupling to attach the hose.


Which is cheaper? Tankless or Storage water heater?

Sometimes on-demand saves money, sometimes it doesn't.

The initial cost - the cost of the equipment plus the cost of the installation - can vary quite a bit.  You have to have the capacity on your gas or electric service to add this large load.  Don't forget to consider the life cycle of the equipment - storage tank water heaters don't last long.

The ongoing cost is harder to nail down.  The on-demand is usually less efficient heating water, but the storage tank heater has to make up heat losses from the stored water all day and night.  The more the water sits unused in the tank the more heat loss there is to make up.  For example if there's just one or two people in the household and they only use hot water a short period in the morning and a few hours at night, the heater spends a lot of energy just keeping water ready around the clock.  For a vacation home that's only used weekends, there's even more heat lost keeping hot water on standby.

You can look even harder at the cost of the nuisance heat.  In some cases nuisance heat isn't really much of a loss - the nuisance heat the water heater makes takes a little load off the furnace - others, the nuisance heat isn't just wasted, you pay for it twice - it adds a little to the air conditioning.

If you can talk to some people that have on-demand water heaters it may be more helpful than trying to do a solid to-the-penny cost analysis.


Looking at the 3D model, the wall to the right of the front entrance door is a load bearing wall. It carries the weight from the roof through the wall and then the weight is distributed to the pillars on both sides of the wall. The back inner wall though can safely be removed.

If you choose to remove the load bearing wall, it might not collapse right away (crossing fingers). But in addition to the weight (load) of the roof structure on the wall, there is also the wind load (and that could be catastrophic). Most people don't appreciate the high load wind places on a structure.

Don't remove a load bearing wall without installing a way to transfer the load onto temporary supports. Contact a Structural Engineer if necessary.


Can an alcove tub be installed with most of it behind a wall?

Alcove tubs are designed with flanges, or lips, on the 2 short ends plus one of the long ends.  The purpose of these flanges is to create an edge that the tile and backer board should cover, ensuring that water drips on the wall land on the tub.

Your design won't suit an alcove tub.

However, you can install a 'stand-alone' tub and use a tile gasket seal around the edges that are to be water tight.  The gasket is a clay like substance.  You put the gasket in place and mold it to fit, then drop the backerboard on top of it to create a water tight seal between wall and tub.  Once the backerboard is water proofed you are good to go.

That said - the layout will be very awkward for getting into and out of the tub with this design.  I'd encourage you to reconsider.


Why not always use a stronger mix ratio for concrete?

Adding excess Portland cement will cause the concrete to shrink more and accelerate the hardening process making it even more brittle than it normally is.
My Dad used to always say there are 2 types of concrete. The kind that had cracks and the kind that will.
Cement really has no strength because it is brittle add something like sand and rock for it to bind together and it has some strength. Add rebar to further bond and it is even stronger.
The problem is over time it continues to hydrate making it more and more brittle. This process can take over 100 years to become a real strength issue with proper ratios used in the original mix.
Excessive cement can accelerate the process where failure is in a hand full of years compared to proper ratios.
Have you ever seen a bag of cement that got wet it is a solid “brick” but less than 10 years they were spalling and crumbling we had about a dozen bags that we used as riprap I noticed it crumbling at about 5 years and by 10 years it was like shale.
Using excess cement in your concrete will shorten the useful life of whatever you are making.


Yes, it should be that simple.  My first guess would be that you have a typo or a misreading, and that yesterday it showed 4814.

If true, from the meter shown that would be a change of around 300 cubic feet, or about 3 therms.  You can check your gas bill to see how many therms per month you are averaging.  During my peak heating days, I can use that much, so it's not unreasonable.

For the meter to record 10000 cubic feet change in a day (or to run backward) is unreasonable.  If you can confirm such a change is really indicated on the dial, you should contact the utility.

The dials for the one shown will indicate usage less than 100 cubic feet.  If you're just recording long-term usage, you can ignore them.  Under light usage, you might need them to see a daily difference.


Is this an ok construction for a bathroom sink drain?

As Kris said there are a lot of 90's , I fully agree with his comment, I would give an example from the electrical code that only 360 degrees of turns are allowed before the next junction box because of the resistance to pulling the wire increasing with each 90, the same thing happens with water pipes and a sharp 90 is impossible to get by more than 2 in many cases if long sweeps are used it may be possible but that's why you can't get the snake through.


Restrictions on 90 Degree Elbow for a Bathroom Exhaust Fan?

The squirrel cage fan relies on velocity, not pressure, to move air. A near elbow stops the momentum and reduces airflow rate. If you need 90 degrees close to the fan, put 2 90s together and swivel the joints to make it into 2 45s.
Down the path a 90 elbow is fine. If the run is long or has many bends, use a double 45 or try to keep the path as straight as you can. At the outside, find a vent cap that seems less restrictive. The flapper valve in the fan should open and close freely. You can often hear it drop closed when you turn off the fan. Wait a couple of seconds til you hear it.


In almost every case, recessed lighting trim is held in place by springs on two sides of the unit. If you can get purchase on the edges, pull down on opposite sides. The unit should lower by several inches.

If you cannot get a grip, you could pry first one side, then the other with a thin plastic putty knife or a plastic spatula. Once you can grip it, again pull down a few inches.

You can then usually release the springs holding the unit to the ceiling. Be careful, because on many LED units, the trim and lighting portions are integral, and they may have wiring going up into the fixture that may need to be disconnected.


Can a broken circulation impeller cause a dishwasher not to drain?

The impeller is the main part of the pump. The pump makes the water spray and it also pumps the water out after the wash or rinse cycle has finished. Usually the drain solenoid opens and since the pump is running all the water goes out the drain instead of through the sprayers.

It doesn't drain by gravity since it pumps up to the sink tailpiece or other entry to the plumbing drain system.

Once you repair the pump all should work as normal but you will have to drain it by hand before repairing it or dump the water all over under it when you open it back up.

Note: some dishwashers have two impellers: one to spray the water during the wash cycle, and one to drain the water. Replacing the spray impeller will not fix drainage problems. If your drain impeller is fine, either your drain line is blocked, or your motor has problems.

Good luck with your project!


Why is Thermostat Y wire connected to C terminal on furnace?

Your AC compressor needs two wires - Y and C.  Y comes from the thermostat and C comes from the air handler or the common side of the 24vac transformer.

The picture you have with the mid-line wire splice is where the three conductor wire (green white, red) branches off and goes outside to the compressor.  Since Y is the standard for "compressor, someone decided to cut the Y wire in that place and use either end of it.  One side of the Y wire goes back to the air handler to pick up the C wire (T terminal), and the other side goes to the thermostat to pick up the switched Y wire.

So, the Y wire and it's connections seem fine.  What I would do is move the Green wire to the G terminal on the air handler and the thermostat since that is the standard color, and then use the Blue wire for C.  It can connect to the T terminal on the air handler and then the C terminal of the nest.

I think the Nest has a voltage check function, but a simple multimeter could be used to verify that you do indeed have 24VAC between the R and T terminals of the air handler.  Based on the diagrams, the T terminal is the C wire, and it was working before, so there shouldn't be a problem.


Removing mini wideset handles without set screws or mounting nuts

The faucet is a Moen, model 4560.  It was imprinted (but mostly worn away) on the back of the faucet spout.

All guides and videos say that the bulbs on the handles just screw off easily.  That wasn't so here.  In the end, after numerous attempts, I hack sawed off the handles.  Not elegant but in this situation it was what was required.


Why my wall sockets are buzzing when I plug something in?

The socket spring is sprung.  The buzzing says you have arcing in there.  Very bad news.  I suspect the wire is getting loose because it's a type of connection we call a "back stab" where you jab the wire in a hole and a barbed spring grabs it, I bet that has also sprung. I would shut off the breaker and swap the outlets for quality grades.

How do you learn how to do that?  Libraries and big-box home improvement shops have a collection of books that teach home electical repairs.   Look through all of them and find one that "speaks to you".

When you shop for outlets, you'll find there's a 75 cent tier, a $3-4 tier and a $10-12 tier.  You want the $3-4 tier.

Never use the "back stabs" on the outlet where you jab the wire in, and it grabs it.  The springs are unreliable - this very thing happens.  It is OK to use "clamp-screw" types where you stick the wire into a slot and then screw down the screw to clamp it down.  Those are in the $3-4 tier.   Or use the screw terminals.

Also be on the lookout for "aluminum wire" - it is silver or gray instead of orangish copper.  Aluminum wire requires very special handling - check back here.


Having built and been specing equipment for all kinds of fireplaces, I would have to say that this key is used to turn a quarter-turn gas valve. If you like to reference it, you can find the same key, with the valve set up, manufactered by Arrowhead Brass.


Help identify these protrusions on my leaky roof

I am not quite sure what that copper/brown colored thing is but the two round things look like the covers off of one gallon sized cans. My guess is that some previous owner was patching up a leak in that spot and there were a couple of holes in the roof.  They were using patch cement similar to what you are setting out to use and decided to stick down these can lids over the holes. Quite possibly the can lids came from their patch cement cans themselves.

If you can tell us a bit more about that copper colored thing it may be possible to clear up what that is as well. Maybe it was something placed on the lid to help hold it in place.


Hot to ground voltages on an ungrounded 3 prong outlet

Your GFCI Tester tells it all. The ground conductor needs to be connected at the device and all the way back to the panel ground. Otherwise it is just a loose wire and the readings you are getting off of it is a "ghost" reading or a voltage reading of a very low amperage output. So it just means it is not connected properly.

The NEC Is specific about changing out a 2 prong outlet to a three prong. You must install a GFCI outlet instead, or install a GFCI device and feed the entire circuit through it, and all receptacles then must be labeled as ungrounded. If you purchase a GFCI receptacle these labels will come with it.

I did an edit on this answer to install two examples of what I am talking about which might help you understand.

Just remember your installation does not have a ground.

Stay safe and good luck.


How do I install carpet tiles in a below grade room?

Assuming you want to do this right and don't mind a little elbow grease.
1) Clean it up
Remove the ceramic tile, and strip the floor down to the bare concrete.  Technically you don't have to do this, but not doing it is, IMO, just lazy.  Building up the floor is convenient but not the best work you can do.
2) Build the base
Now that you're down to bare concrete, install Dri-Core tiles or something similar for subflooring, making sure you add ventilation as per manufacturer instructions.  This product protects itself from moisture (except in a flood of course) and will likewise protect the tile from small moisture accumulations.

3) Put down whatever floor you like.
There are a number of interlocking carpet tile products available that allow you to do a floating style installation.
The grout question is a non issue if you remove the ceramic, as you should.


The primary advantage to closer truss spacing is greater load-bearing ability, which is important if the roof will have heavy stuff on it, like shingles and snow. With 24" OC trusses and a conventional shingle roof, you may need to shovel your roof from time to time to prevent snow buildup from becoming dangerous. On the other hand, you can decrease this irritation by making the trusses' load lighter. One way would be to have a lighter roof material, such as metal. It will be more expensive up front, but a metal roof will last far longer than shingles and probably prevent you from having to worry about snow loads. It will also probably increase your house's resale value, which will not happen if you're simply replacing a failing roof and structure with a new one of the same or similar quality as the old one.


2x6 joists at the span that you are talking about (16' and 18') are not strong enough to support a floor as a living space. With a span like that the timber size that you sister in would have to be at least 2x10's. Look this up in a joist span table (available in numerous places on the web) if you do not believe me.

Trying to install cross bracing on the existing 2x6's can stiffen the overall construction if it is installed correctly. It will not however make the overall floor any stronger. Instead it just spreads localized loads across multiple joists to lessen flexure due to live loads moving around. Depending on the method used it will add to the dead weight of the existing structure. If you tried to install cross braces using 1x3 or 1x4 material in an X format you would have to remove the ceiling from below in order to properly nail in the bottom ends of the cross braces. If instead the bracing would be done by installing 2x6 blocking between all the exiting joists these could be nailed from above using the appropriate tools. Although nailing 16d spikes in between 16" on center joists with a conventional hammer is no picnic. It is also likely that nailing to the existing joists like this will lead to some flexure and corresponding ceiling damage below.

It would be typical that a remodel like that would have, at a minimum, the roofing and roof sheathing removed on one slope of the roof so that the long members can be poked into the space from the outside. If the whole attic was basically clear it may be possible to make one hole in a gable end to push in the timbers and then position them in place in the attic space but it would be a total pain.

Then with that all said you would have to decide if the loss of an additional four inches of floor to ceiling height under a sloped roof area ends up making a usable bedroom living space anyway.

Rooms built up under a sloped roof often face a huge compromise of insulation in the rafter area where the sloped part of the ceiling comes into play. Done blindly with the idea of just thinking of attaching sheet rock to the bottom if the rafters you lose even more insulation due to the need to provide air vent paths in this space from the rafter tail area up to the peak area. Be prepared for a lot of heat loss in winter and the rooms potentially getting very hot in the summer.

A better choice remodel may be to consider an addition to extend the existing floor levels out the amount needed to provide for the added rooms. Or if there is an existing attached garage consider a garage conversion.