Rigidity (and height) of drywall around outlet hole

Good to be proactive and catch this before the tile goes up.  Obvious problems I see are that the drywall is poorly cut (can take it out and trace it to re-cut a matching piece without gaps or overcut at almost no cost so easily fixed).  Any of a drywall cutout tool, a Dremel, a keyhole saw, a hacksaw blade or a drill with a side cut bit can cut the piece without so many obvious flaws.  Sloppy cuts like that are no issue on properly backed board, but a repair justifies greater diligence.  If he's being dodgy about fixing such an obvious problem, he may just need an idea of how to do the fix at a reasonable cost.
The rigidity problem won't be fully solved by the above, but it is still very easy to solve.  You have a very significant size workable hole there, so it shouldn't be a problem  to add backing wood verticals to support the drywall.  You probably don't want to remove more tile and trying to screw to the studs inside the wall would be exceeingly awkward, but you can get some 1"x1" pieces of wood, figure out what the longest one you can get through the hole is, cut it and hold it up inside the wall to see if it's long enough to bridge the taller gap with enough overlap to glue to the inside of the drywall above and below.  If it's not long enough, you can put two pieces in the wall and then screw them together with a 4" overlap to make one long piece.  Make sure you drop all the pieces you need in the wall before you start screwing together or gluing in pieces that might block the opening.  Finally, you can cut blocks to fill the space between the backing boards and the back wall and glue, screw and/or wedge those in place.  Consider overkill using heavy duty adhesive like PL400.  By the time you're done the result should be as permanent and rigid as the rest of the wall.  Cost will be quite low compared to cost of re-doing tile an infinite number of times.
Especially if you use high strength adhesive like PL products, prep everything first, clean the inside of the drywall of dust and read the instructions, as some of these products set quite fast.
As far as the depth problem, that should not be a significant issue for an experienced tilesetter or mason unless it is quite significantly proud, but to me it looks inset and since the drywall needs to be re-set anyway it would be easy to shim it flush.
Bashing out more tile, even just enough to install a horizontal backing board would also work, and the 16" tall piece of drywall you're asking about would function too, but it will still have some flex unless you add backing.  You would have to take out 9 tiles including a special cut and really all you want is a normal strength wall and it probably won't break your heart if it has a few extra boards hidden in it.


You've got way too much drain hose down there. The drains come in high as they should but all the wrap-a-rounds hamper the draining and the waste just siphons back into the washer. Once the drains start heading down after their high entry, they should connect to the main drain. Rotate those taps for a more direct connection.
You would be able to get a disposal in there but you'll have to start from scratch with all the drain plumbing. Plan it out.


Wildfire smoke : old electronic air cleaner or normal pleated filter better?

Smoke particles are on the order of 1 micron.  A "pleated" filter is good down to about 3-5 microns so NO, that will not filter out the smoke.  Some will get through.
What you need is a HEPA filter, which usually involves adding a HEPA filter unit into your system and these are effective down to about 0.3 microns.


(yet another) Ceiling fan capacitor identification and replacement

It is a 1.5/3 microfared cap 260v eBay has them for 8.99$ Amazon 6.95 the one that I looked at was 250v but that will be fine on a 120v circuit.
You need to make sure you connect them correctly as 1 lead is common 1 is 1.5 UF the other is 3 UF.
The positions will be the same , the other numbers are MFG lot numbers etc.
Note I just searched “ capacitor 1.5/3”


Can you safely install high-pressure sodium wall packs indoors?

Other than quickly reducing your visitors (wow, remember when we had visitors?) to those like-minded individuals who love HPS light, there's no issue with putting a wet-rated "exterior" fixture indoors, unless the instructions forbid that. Indoors is generally a less extreme environment than outdoors, so a fixture that operates safely outdoors will operate safely indoors.
Other potential downsides: I think 35W is about as low as you can go with HPS bulbs that I've seen, and there IS the fact that they take 5 minutes or more to turn all the way on.
If the wall pack is designed to mount to a junction box, you must use one. If the wall-pack design incorporates a junction box you don't need another. You don't need a GFCI on lighting circuits if they are hard-wired unless they are too close to a tub or shower - you do if they are cord-and-plug, or too close to/over a shower or tub.

For a similar (not the same, though it is the same color temperature) color and faster turn on with lower wattages, there are 2000K LEDs available.


This is an answer from yesterday in another question thread:

  Priming and Painting Galvanized Metal, condensed from KILZ.com, other manufacturers also make specific paints and primers for galvanized metal.

  The galvanizing process, which is designed to prevent rust, leaves an oily film that can prevent coating adhesion. The zinc in galvanized metal can produce a milky “white rust” (which is common when it has weathered) that must be removed with a stiff brush or abrasive pad, prior to coating. It’s necessary to remove the oily film that can prevent coating adhesion with a water-based cleaner/degreaser.

  Prime the surface with a water-based primer. Since oil-based primers can interact with the zinc in galvanized metal, causing premature peeling, always use a water-based primer when painting galvanized metal. KILZ® 2 Primer is an excellent choice when priming and painting exterior galvanized metal. It will grip to the metal surface and provide a better surface for the paint to adhere.

  todayshomeowner.com/how-to-paint-a-galvanized-metal-door


Repair or exchange mower tire with different part number

This doesn't directly answer the question, but is, I believe, a good alternate:

Since you've already got the wheel/rim disassembled, I'd suggest taking the tire (bring the rim with you, just for fun) to a couple of local big-box hardware stores and see if you can find a replacement that matches*. If you can't find one there, try a local lawn-mower repair guy - he's bound to have and/or know where to get a replacement tire that'll work just fine.

Actually, I'd suggest going to your local lawn-mower repair guy first, just to help support a local business. You may pay a couple of dollars more, but (most likely) get great knowledge and service. He may even remount the tire for you at low/no charge. And he may get you going today instead of waiting for something to ship to you.

Worst case scenario, he'll tell you you need to order directly from McCulloch/Huskvarna directly, but he'll likely know which one will work.

* by "matches" I mean rim diameter & width and overall tire circumference. You need to be able to mount the new tire to the rim without it rolling off, and you want the same rolling diameter on both sides of the axle or you'll be steering in one direction just to go straight. If you absolutely cannot find one with the right outside circumference, you may need to buy two (if they're not terribly expensive) and replace both front tires, or bite the bullet and get the OEM part. I can't imagine that there are too many varieties of lawn mower tires, but, who knows...


What are some good concrete and foundation books?

I cannot think of any good concrete books off the top of my head, sorry.

However, you listed two tasks that you wish to pursue, one of which I believe can be achieved well with book learning and the other which cannot.  As far as building concrete foundations goes the trick is in the forms.  I would look for books specifically geared toward concrete formwork.  If it is an existing house then your formwork is going to be significantly different from building forms in a meadow.  Again not sure if there are any books out there that will tell you the things that concrete contractors know from years of experience.

As far as finishing slabs goes I would like to offer a word of warning based on 20 years in the trades.  If you want it to look good and function the way it should you can't expect to learn the techniques involved without a lot of time and effort, not to mention a lot of ugly permanent concrete "test slabs." Hire a finisher if your slab is going to be more than 20' sq.  Here in the San Francisco Bay Area the cost of hiring a finishing expert is usually around $500/day or $300 for a fraction thereof.


in-line water filter gets clogged weekly after well-water pipe replacement

I'm assuming your pipes were quite old and that may be part of the reason it was replace.  In that case your experience is entirely normal although it's also quite inconvenient.  Working on old plumbing does disturb deposits and sediment that has collected over the years.  As noted, but best thing is to run the water full-force for some time.  5 minutes, however, is nowhere near long enough.  I'd start at an hour or so and continue until water collected in a bucket no longer shows sediment in the bottom after sitting a while.


Sliding Glass Door Locked from the Outside?

The latch mechanism ("hook deadlock" as mentioned by CactusCake) is generally installed so that the "hook" is facing up. But sometimes people install them upside down to where the hook faces down and if it is loose and sloppy, the hook falls down when you shut the door, locking you out.

Normal:

Upside down:


Pretty sure a vent pipe (the one going through the roof) is blocked.  There should be a vent pipe coming off the main drain stack, perhaps not obvious in a multi story home.  Birds and other critters are sometimes the cause

Vent blockage means air is reversing through the toilet trap, removing the protective water (which keeps sewer gas from entering home).

Water emptying from tank may just mean a leaky flapper, though this is unlikely on 2 toilets simultaneously.

A visit from a plumber is in order.


How to block/seal a low pressure water pipe?

Marine epoxy will plug a hole that size, I would plug the pipe an inch back fill or pack the hole with marine 2 part epoxy and fill the hole we did this for an emergency repair on a boat and it held the entire week we were offshore.


Doorbell transformer has two black wires and one green. How can i tell which one is hot?

There are multiple possibilities here.
Black to black will be the maximum output voltage (24v example).
Some transformers have a 1 and a 2 or A & B on the wires when connected to #1 terminal to green there is 1 voltage (16v example).
#2 Terminal to green is a different voltage (8v example).
The 2 different voltages add to the maximum voltage in some cases the voltage is the same 12 & 12 and again the total is 24v
So it depends on the type of transformer secondary but black is hot in all 3 cases.
How can both be hot? A transformer creates a separate derived source of power in code speak and until a ground point is created we don’t know so we need to know the type of transformer first. A center tapped transformer the center tap is normally grounded. A black to black on the secondary the green is usually not needed and wire nutted either side at that point can be grounded.


Where can I find a 1/2" bit screwdriver?

This sounds like a job for a socket wrench.

Because a socket wrench has a long handle, it acts like a lever and you can get a huge amount of torque from it, MUCH more than you can get from a screwdriver.

You can get driver bits for those as well, but since you said 'bolt' and it's 1/2", that it will have a hex head on it that you can use a socket bit on.

Using some penetrating oil or WD-40 on the threads may also help to loosen it if it's rusted or corroded.


Just patch a leaking crack in the basement wall, or do more?

Conventional wisdom is that you deal with the issue from the outside in.

Is there something causing water to stay in that area? Downspouts dumping water there? Ponding that can be solved by grading the surface? Drainage patterns that can only be mitigated by something like a french drain?

Deal with the exterior "why", and you might not have to worry about a crack.

But if you want to work on the crack, do it from the outside. There's no greater waste of time imho than patching the interior. Hydraulic cement is usually the weapon of choice, here.


Tandem/twin circuit breakers installed where not allowed?

The existing tandems are of the correct model for this panel...
Your existing panel appears to be a very old GE panel, of a style that predates the current THQP half-width GE breaker, as well as the formal introduction of Circuit Total Limiting panels.  These ancient panels use type TR tandem breakers instead, and the spare breaker you photographed indeed is a type TR, in addition to looking identical from the face.
...but are indeed misplaced
This means that while the panel labeling only permits tandems in certain slots, neither the breakers nor the panel are keyed to enforce that, and thus you can get your current situation, where the installer slapped tandem breakers in wherever convenient.  This, while not an issue at the moment, can lead to problems with heat down the road if more tandems get shoved in there, stuffing the panel beyond its 20-circuit limit.  This is possible if 240V or multi-wire branch circuits are present, as those mean that the number of neutrals will not match the number of hots, rendering the 20-hole limit on the neutral bar irrelevant.
A millstone about your neck, if ye wish to keep it
Furthermore, the age of this panel means that it is one of the few cases where new production breakers of the labeled type are not compatible with the panel's busbar system. In other words, if you bought new-make GE THQL breakers for this panel, expecting them to fit and work, you'll be in for a major disappointment, as they likely won't even fit, as per this DIYChatroom post (pertinent parts quoted below for posterity):

GE changed the way they set the breaker's seating height. In my panel, you push the breaker down until the top of the molded slot rests on the stab. TQL breakers, THQL Issue UOxxx (probably MJxxx, NExxx and others too), and also Siemens QP and Eaton BR, can work this way, because they all have the same slot profile.
Recent panels have a ridge of insulating material next to the stab; the bottom of the breaker's case rests on the ridge. The stab is not as tall. It doesn't penetrate the breaker as deep. All the above breakers (except TQL which somehow doesn't quite fit) can be mounted. Also Issue RT-xxx of THQL, which doesn't fit the old bus because it can't accommodate the tall stab. Issue RT-xxx is all you will find in retail stock.

This means that your breaker selection is limited to NOS (new old stock) THQL breakers of Issues that will fit the panel, which is a dicey source of breakers at best, or to Eaton CL breakers that have been UL classified for use in GE panels (among others).  However, while the latter can be obtained reliably from any electrical supply house that deals in Eaton products, the UL classification process limits you to a small subset of possibilities.  Namely, using CL breakers limits you to a maximum of 50A branch circuits, and means you can't get double-stuff breakers, two-pole arc or ground-fault breakers, dual-function (arc fault/ground fault) breakers, or other exotica for your panel, either.
Nonetheless, if you wish to keep this panel, you can, provided it is in good condition on the inside still.  You'll have to rearrange this panel so that the double-stuff breakers are in slots designated for them, though, and replace that BR120 that currently sits in the bottom left with an Eaton CL120.  Note that you'll want to keep the spare TR breaker if you do this, too, as they are extremely difficult to find nowadays, since they have not been made in roughly half a century or so.
Replacement options
If you do decide to blow the money and replace this panel, you have a couple of options.  First, you could replace the whole panel with a 100A, 24-space or 30-space, main breaker panel.  This gives you a brand new panel, of a manufacturer of your choice, and plenty of room for future expansion as well.  Note that you'll have to replace the breakers wholesale to go with this panel swap, which may mean you have to put AFCIs in.
The other option would be to use a retrofit interior kit (mostly an Eaton thing, although Siemens now offers a retrofit interior as well) to replace the existing bus structure in the panel.  This would also require a wholesale breaker replacement, and requires costlier parts than replacing the panel outright, but has the advantage that the existing enclosure (cabinet) can be left in place.  This is useful if removing the old cabinet is impractical, something that is often the case for flush-mounted panels, or if rigid conduits come into the panel from both sides or the top and bottom.


Is there such a thing as an escutcheon that will fit at an angle?

I have seen escutcheons shaped like this but don’t know where to buy.

It is possible you could modify one to accommodate the angle. Make the inner circle into an oval.


What is an aesthetically pleasing way to add lateral support to a loft bed?

Since you are doing sturdy x-bracing under the bed itself, and two adjacent sides are cross braced as well, you have three braced frames in three planes, and none of the frames are overly long and skinny, there is adequate bracing for the entire structure. If you can in any way anchor the structure to the walls as well for additional rigidity, you will be better off.

Even if you can't, as long as the frames are truly rigid and do not rack in the least, you will be fine. The one unbraced post is a bit of a problem unless anchored at the base because it can move if bumped against. If bumped hard enough, you could lose the vertical support at that corner. Thus the connection of this post must be as rigid as possible at the top connection to the bed frame. It's essentially like a table leg, a loose one is nearly useless.


Probably, but "it depends".

How much insulation, how well the ventilation ABOVE the insulation works at getting the summer heat from the roof out of that space. That part is critical. You don't mention eave or soffit vents, and if you don't have them, you don't have airflow to the ridge vent.

As a small point of whatever, I have a metal-roofed building with eave and ridge venting and I honestly find the ridge venting, in particular, rather sub-optimal - I'm seriously considering retrofitting a functional cupola. The vent is there, but the small passages appear to end up far more restrictive to airflow than would be ideal.


How do I estimate how much drywall I'll need?

Add the area of the ceiling by the area of the walls and then factor in some extra for waste. So if you have 8' ceilings, those walls would be 1120 sqft themselves. Add the 490 sqft for the ceiling would give 1610 sqft. Then add in a factor for waste. The less experience you have, and the more angles and corners you have to cut, the more waste you'll have. I think 5% waste is on the low end for our projects, but we have lots of closets, halls, and inexperienced volunteers doing the cutting. That would give you 36-38 sheets of 12x4 (1610 / 48 = almost 34, with 5% waste you get 36, 10% waste gives you 38).

Before you order, since this is a basement, if there's any mold or mildew risk, get mold proof drywall. Also, if you don't have some experienced help, I'd go for the 4x8 sheets. With experience and a lift, it's possible to do 4x8 sheets by yourself, but a 4x12 sheet is often a 3 person job (2 to hold, one to screw). Just realize the 4x8 sheets will require more joints to mud.  If you go with 4x8 sheets, since they are 32 sqft each, you'd end up with 54-56 sheets.


Thermal protection switch replacement in recessed incandescent can lights

Yes it has always been possible to replace a 60 with a 100 in one of these fixtures but that would set off the thermal even faster. Back in the day before thermal cutouts were installed people started fires by using an oversized lamp in a fixture that was not protected. If you cover it with insulation it holds the heat and only exacerbates the problem.

Replace the incandescent with the LED and hopefully the cooler lamp will keep it from tripping the aging thermal relay.

If it still trips you may have to remove the thermal and replace it or replace the whole fixture.

Good luck!


Based on the color (light; pink tinge), knots (lots), and grain (wide) I would say it's a soft wood but I don't know what type. Common soft wood flooring would be pine and fir. Soft woods can be dented with your fingernail (unlike oak, for example—a common hardwood species for flooring).

You can definitely stain pine, but that floor doesn't look stained to me. What exactly did you do?


How to fix two circuits in one junction box sharing the same neutral?

If the two circuits are wired with 14-2, all you need to do is identify which neutral goes with which circuit and disconnect them from each other, so each is only connected to the items on its circuit.

This would only be a problem if the two circuits were actually sharing a neutral wire. If they simply have joined neutrals, it's easy to remedy.


How should I fill gaps between floorboards?

I'll both disagree and agree with @RedGrittyBrick's comment. The  best solution is to treat the existing floor as a subfloor and lay a tight new floor over it at right angles or diagonally to the existing boards.

Pulling up an existing floor is almost never the best (especially when cost is an object, and it usually is) solution unless it's rotten.


How long must a refrigerator be left upright after being leaned at an angle before operation?

It's not clear what MAKE/MODEL you have but the GE Appliance manual says to leave it UPRIGHT for an amount of time equal to the length of time it was on its side.

It also says specifically:

  If laying on its side just briefly to service, clean or adjust, just a few minutes of stand time will be enough.

It sounds as though just a few minutes will be sufficient.

From the OP:  An experienced friend recommended 8 hours after 5 minutes of it being between flat and 45 degrees (while moving it).


Typical mortar joints are 3/8", but there is no rule for it, that it has to be that size. They can be much wider than that. I have seen joints as wide as you have pictured, no big deal, it is a matter of aesthetics.
The mason could have looked to find the right size brick, but he may had to order them and possibly pay a premimum for them, especially if he is buying less than a cube(about 500 brick) much tougher when buying only a 100 or just a few dozen, so perhaps he went with what he could get.

The brick he is using may be 7 5/8" long, which is a "modular". The original brick may be 8" long or "standard" brick, from what I found on the internet. There is no way for me to know, it is an educated guess.


Nope!

Siemens QP breakers, with basically no exceptions, cannot be double-lugged the way you see there.  Fortunately, this is easy to fix.  All you will need is a couple of 12AWG stranded THHN pigtails (one black, one white) and a pair of wirenuts suitable for 3 12AWG wires each, as well as an inch-pound torque screwdriver to set the torque on the breaker lugs properly.  Turn the breaker in question off, unfasten the wires from the lugs, nut each pair (black and black, white and white) together with its corresponding pigtail color, insert the pigtails into the correct lugs (black in the top lug, white in the bottom lug), and torque the lugs back down to the labeled torque values using your torque screwdriver.


How *environmentally* durable are pet-resistant screens?

They are typically made of vinyl. Some people are stating here that it last them about 5 years so far. I'd expect 5-10 years. After 10 years, it probably will be brittle anyways. Just keep the chemicals away and wash with water only.


converting single pane windows to double pane

I've done this myself and I can relay my experiences. Doing this over the average of the two years I looked at about 10% difference in my heating bill. I replaced the windows with 1/4 glass with a 1/2 inch gap. My method was to use the original wood molding to rest the first replacement window on. I used glazing fasteners and then filled all gaps with silicon caulk. This was after insuring that the wooden window frame was is good shape and free from rot, defects, and loose joints. ANY air that pass through will be a problem for more reasons than just your bills.

After setting the first pane I surrounded that pane with 1/2 by 1/2 inch oak stained the same as the interior of the windows.I set this trim in a bed of wet silicone at the corner of the first pane of glass and brad nailed it into the window frame. I then set the second pane of glass using fasteners and silicone. It has worked really well except for one window where the joint failed and allowed moisture into the air space between the two. One moisture is in there you'll have to undo all the work and start over. Like wise only the interior window will be easily replaceable, if something breaks the exterior pane you'll likewise have to tear it all apart. For me its worth it.

I have a 118 year old home and I like my old double pane windows. Aluminum windows on this house would be a crime.


Low speed furnace fan blower motor will not shut off

Dangerous! Don't pull LO FAN plug, it dissipate the heat.

Sounds like LO FAN relay stuck, better replace the whole (blower control) board.


Can I use the CAT3 cable in my home for internet?

A Definite Maybe...
Harper's answer gives a good overview of the general setup of a wired home network. There are two separate issues in your particular case that complicate things:
CAT 3
CAT 3 is nominally rated for 10 Mbps. It may be able to handle 100 Mbps. But it is not officially designed for that, and there are actual differences between CAT 3, CAT 5, CAT 5e, CAT 6, etc. that make the newer cable types able to handle higher speeds. Forget Gigabit networking on CAT 3, but the vast majority of home users simply don't need that unless they are doing true networking between their computers - for myself the only time I truly need it is when I am replacing a computer and need to transfer everything over the wire (and there are ways around that too)).
The big catch is that if you hook things up with CAT 3 and it can't handle the desired 100 Mbps then there are two possible things that could happen:

Downgrade to 10 Mbps - This is actually fine for a lot of uses. May not work well for 4K video, but probably work fine for most other things. That's still 6x the speed of standard DSL of just a few years ago, and is for each device in the network, not shared like a DSL connection.
Errors. Lots and lots of errors. Get an error once every minute and it is no big deal. Get errors every other packet and it is a different story. A lot of things will go into this calculation, but mostly dependent on the quality of the cable (CAT 3 is all the same, but how good are the connections, the network cards, switches, etc.)

A switch that lets you force 10 Mbps. can solve the problem, but your typical cheap unmanaged switches these days don't have that capability. Many network cards have that capability, if you know where to find it.
Wiring Topology
Twisted-pair Ethernet is based on a hub/spoke topology. A bunch of devices connect to a central location - hub or switch (these days, almost always a switch). If your house is set up for that then each of those CAT 3 cables has the other end in one location - typically in the basement, but could be anywhere.
However, plain old telephone service (POTS) is often installed daisy-chained to save on cabling costs. You might have one cable going to bedroom 1 with another cable connected to that one (call it a splitter or whatever you want) and from there to bedroom 2. While POTS doesn't need even CAT 3, it was quite common 25 - 30 years ago to simply use CAT 3 for everything (why stock two cable types) and a little later to use CAT 3 (especially if you had a few boxes lying around) for POTS and CAT 5 for networking.
Since you have some rooms with 2 cables in each location and some with 1 cable in each location, that indicates a real possibility of daisy-chained cables.


You don't need a 3-wire switch.   You only need 2 wires, the switch interrupts the "hot" wire, the other two wires run through.   Bonus points if you get a 2-pole switch which also interrupts neutral.  That solves the problem if someone plugs the plug in upside-down, many European plug types make it possible to reverse polarity to the lamp by accident.  This is why we New Worlders revised NEMA 1 and 5 to add polarizatin.

Get comfortable with your ohmmeter

Ohms are a simple thing:  Ohms = Volts / Amps.   If you have a 230V heater that draws 2.3 amps, it will be 230/2.3  = 100 ohms.

Holding the probes apart should be infinity ohms.  Holdong them together should be 0 ohms (it will read a little higher).

Use your ohmmeter on other stuff that you expect to work, don't try to learn it on something you are troubleshooting.

Is your main "fuse" an RCD?

One big thing over there is having the main house overcurrent protection (OCD or ”breaker") be also a ground-fault or residual current detector.  Ideally this device should have an indicator that tells whether it tripped for overcurrent, or residual current.

A residual-current aka grounda-fault trip is rather unlikely if there are only 2 wires actually reaching the device and it's not connected to any viable grounding path.   By definition a ground fault requires a third current path.

There is also a new thing called arc-fault protection.  This puts a tiny computer in the circuit breaker which listens to the power line for the telltale sound of arcing (you know the sound if you've ever fidgeted with a headphone jack or speaker hookup).  It is especially valuable in older homes (or newer, cheaply made homes) where wiring might fail by arcing and start a fire.  A sloppy wiring job could result in this trip.

Divide and conquer

What you do is disassemble it , and add one thing at a time until the overcurrent device trips again.  Start with nothing plugged in.   Then plug in the remote switch, but no lamp in it.  Then disassemble the lamp until it's just the line cord (no connection block).  Then add the connection block (nothing  on the lamp side).  Then add the lamp wiring.  Then assemble the lamp.  Then add the bulb.

Very likely at some step in there, blammo, and there's the problem.  My bet is the junction block isn't wired internally like you think it is.


How to I eliminate the smell coming from my Mitsubishi mini split units?

I wonder if the mold is growing in a place in the drains where cleaning solution isn't reaching. I can think of different possibilities to get the cleaning solution on the entire inner surface of the drains:

(1) Add cleaning solution as directed, then use a shop vac for a short time on the end to vigorously pull cleaning solution through the drain.

(2) Add solution as directed. then plug the drain to let the solution entirely fill the drain.

(3) Make up a quart of cleaning solution in a jug and introduce this into the unit from the discharge end outside so that the solution completely fills the drain. This risks the possibility of an overflow of solution into the evaporator unit inside and so one would have to be careful.  I'd use a length of clear neoprene tubing with swollen sections so you could cut at a swelling to get an end of the right diameter to seal the discharge end of the drain. By alternately raising and lowering the jug one could flush the drain repeatedly.

(4) Attach a  6 ft or 8 ft length of neoprene tubing to the end of the outflow tube outside and raise the end of the neoprene tubing to the height of the drain pan inside the evaporator.  Introduce the cleaning solution into the drain inside as instructed. The solution should completely fill the drain system and overflow out the end of the neoprene tubing.


Can you use 1 ecobee thermostat to control 2 zone valves for heating?

unfortunately the ecobee is not set up to do that.  Each thermostat only controls one heating zone, regardless of the quantity of room sensors.  The way the sensors are used is fairly flexible.  They can be included in an average with the t-stat and other sensors to trigger heat demand, and they can individually be included/excluded in different "comfort settings".  i.e. you can exclude the living room sensor for the "sleep" comfort setting when theoretically nobody will be in the living room.  You can also set them up as occupancy sensors for them to be included only when motion is sensed.

But yes, it would be pretty cool if each sensor (up to a limit) could be used as its own zone.  That would, however, require additional wires from the thermostat.  And the number would be limited- there's only 11 terminals available on today's ecobees, and lot of them will be used already, depending on what you already need hooked up.  So if your scenario had unused ecobee terminals, and if the ecobee programming was set up for it (it is not, at least today, and I don't have anything that suggests to me that that will ever change), then THEORETICALLY you could attach a separate pair of wires to the "zone 2" connections on your Taco ZVC-403 to control the second zone.  Your original ecobee/zone should have already occupied zone 1 in the ZVC403.

This question is a couple months old, so you've probably already figured this out, but to inject that ZVC into your system, all thermostats go into the ZVC, and the ZVC's "isolated end switch" replaces the thermostat wires into your boiler.  There's more to it than that, obviously, but Taco does have a bunch of helpful youtube videos out there to walk you through it.  Good luck!


One option would be to see if you could move that connection to a location where you have grounding available easily. That is just a COAX cable, for TV service or internet, via satellite or cable. It can be mounted anywhere along the line run, but preferably as close to the beginning of the run, or at least prior to any device connections. The installer found a copper pipe and just grounded there. As for the comment of leave this as is, if you disconnect the pipes before and after, then it is no longer a ground connection.


Connect 1/4“ supply line to 3/8” outer diameter faucet line

Whoa... remove everything you just installed, including those valves.

the valves you used have garden hose thread outlets, and you have incorrectly screwed pipe thread fittings to them. It will leak, if not now then in the future. Those valves are commonly used to supply clothes washing machines which use supply lines with garden hose thread.

Replace the valves with dual-outlet angle stop valves, which come with the proper 1/2" pipe thread inlet and outlets that will fit your 3/8" compression thread flex supply and your 1/2" pipe thread flex supply:

Don't use those black iron fittings; they will corrode. You won't need them anyway if you purchase the correct stop-valves.


Garbage disposal always on when plugged in (sparks seen on outlet at every connection)

Are you positive you plugged the disposal into the exact same outlet? Often only one of the two outlets on a duplex plug under the sink is wired to the disposal. You might have plugged it into a plug that is always on, which would explain the spark when plugging it in


Is this half wall with spindles load-bearing?

It's difficult to see exactly how this is framed, but...The 2x framing directly below your blue line appears to be the top plate of the wall with spindles in it.  That wall appears to be supporting attic/ceiling framing members.  The perpendicular members (2x6?) appear to be bearing on the spindle wall, and not spanning over.  That leads me to believe that the spindles cannot be removed, without some means of reinforcing.
With some additional information you might be able to tell how best to make it work.  You might be able to replace the spindle wall with a beam in the attic space, spanning from the 2x12 beam to the next load bearing wall at the other end of the spindle wall. You could possibly use joist hangers to frame the perpendicular 2x6 members into the face of the new beam.  All of this would need to be designed for the appropriate loads.  That is just conceptually how I would approach it. But it really is necessary to get a better view of the framing.  Too much is concealed by insulation, to make a confident judgement.


Cracks shouldnt create backdraft. The vent may be open but my flues always seem to get clogged. Birds/squirrels love to make nests in them.

Best bet is hire a sweeper. Or at least go up on the roof and check its clear.


Matching Concrete to Tile Floor Height (1")

Level it... with more tile?

I've done my share of concrete work, but there's no way I'd trust myself to float a finished floor and I wouldn't personally guarantee any work I did less than four inches thick. I'd tile it just like the rest, if I were set (haha) on doing concrete, I'd hire that out to a stone flooring specialist.

I doubt you own a commercial floor buffer and a 20amp grinder. Having only seen it done, I can't go into great detail. I just know that I don't want to grind on a floor for two days straight. IMO, tile is your best and cheapest answer: anyone can tile well enough and your labor is free.

Note: "Self-Leveling" is a name, not an adjective. Call it whatever you want: it doesn't. You still need to know how to float concrete and you'll still need a floor buffer to correct any mistakes.

Patching a slab so that you can tile over it is DiY. Installing a Stonhard floor is best left up to a professional company (of the same name, with which I've no affiliation but I did know some people that worked for them, who said the job sucked, but the dust completely coating the interior of their car told me that).


Multi wire circuit or 2 separate 120V 20A dedicated circuits?

Multi-wire branch circuits (MWBCs) must be on a 2-pole breaker, never ever a twin!  Measure between the two hots, that must always read 240V.  If it reads 0V, you are overloading the neutral.

What you want to do is easy enough, though.   Run yourself an 8/3 or 6/3 cable.  In the service panel, land it on a 20A 2-pole breaker.

At the other end, bring it into a large box such as a 4-11/16 square deep box at the location where you would want that outlet.   Then bring into that box your two 20A subcircuits, on 12 AWG wire.  All the whites get wirenutted together, then black #6/8 to one of the #12 blacks, and red to the other black.  Continue the #12 cables on to your outlet locations.

If you ever fit the sauna, you'll need to abandon the MWBC.  You can't put 15/20A receptacles on a 40A circuit unless you fit a subpanel here.  However if you think you might fit a subpanel, run #6 wire.  That will let you breaker for 60A, and a 60A-fed subpanel will easily support the sauna and the 20A circuits at once.


Must a 4 ton variable speed air handler use a 4 ton heat pump?

The question you ask about a "4-ton air-handler" is that you can expect the air-handler to produce enough air supply to support a 4 ton A/C unit requiring about 1600 cfm. The actual air flow is dependent upon the total resistance to air flow in the whole system. Since the motor supplied is a variable speed or more probably a 4 speed motor, then you could utilize a lower speed for a reduced air flow. The actual air flow needed to support an A/C unit is not an exact science but is an approximation of the air flow needed. So, to answer your question "yes", you can use that air-handler on an  A/C unit smaller than 4 ton. The 4-ton is the maximum size A/C you should use


Water Heater Exhaust - how to connect the 3 inch hood to four inch exhaust pipe

It may not be pretty but there isn't anything wrong with using aluminum tape on this. However, there are other options.
There are a number of reducers and elbows that will fit:

This is a 3" to 4" adaptor that should get you started and can be combined with a flexible elbow:

These are American Metal Products available at HD. You may have to do some adjusting - ductwork is as much art as science. If these particular items don't work for you there are others out there.


Use a 2-wire line voltage thermostat on a 24v / low voltage 2-wire furnace

Plain old mechanical thermostats don't care, but...

They are simple switches, whether they are line voltage, millivolt, or 24V.  However, obviously, they have different current ratings; I wouldn't lose any sleep over mixing up millivolt and 24V, but those must never carry line voltage.

However, your thermostat with the single dial and the "large, black and white numbers" is not a plain old mechanical thermostat.  You are talking about some sort of smart thermostat there.  If this thing is battery powered, that's a possibility; but more likely it relies on a "C" wire or on current leakage through a large resistance heater (which would be pretty easy to do for a line voltage 'stat). These won't work on the wrong voltage.

Why are you bothering? There's a huge variety of 24V thermostats

I gather you spotted one you like, but if you do some research I bet you can turn up a comparable one that runs on 24V.  Probably ten of them.   Some that use batteries, some that use C-wire power, and others that allow leakage power through a clunky old 24V solenoid like you'll have on an old furnace.

As far as price, line voltage doesn't buy you anything.  There are very inexpensive thermostats available for all types.


Would mold eventually just die by itself if its environment was made uninhabitable?

In the right (or wrong, depending on your point of view) environment, mold will die.

So to answer your question, the mold will die with a lack of moisture. However, there is a catch. The spores (seeds) can be preserved, apparently for more years than you and I will be alive.

Molds can come in all kinds of colors, so there is no one answer to the color question.

Also, as this is a basement, by the very nature of basements, it is unlikely you will prevent all moisture from existing or returning in that environment. Basements are typically moist, but your server farm will certainly stifle the molds ability to grow.

Nonetheless, the mold, whatever kind(s) it is, can still be a health hazard, and you are living in a home that probably pulls some air from the basement via wiring holes, furnace, etc. -- With the addition of a server farm there, you now have a continuous circulation of air.

Obviously it is up to you what you do but disturbing mold and making it airborne is more dangerous than leaving it be. Mold remediation can be costly, especially if it turns out its not a breed that poses a health hazard.

Since any mold can pose health hazards, even if just allergy based, perhaps consider getting it cleaned by a pro and take peace of mind that the server farm will stop its growth.


Running water in master shower causes guest bathtub spigot to drip

I have seen this with washer less faucets. The pressure drop causes them to drip especially if they are older. A set of new seals and possibly springs may tighten it enough to stop the drip, The big box stores Cary kits with different sizes some times they are color coded to size, there are at least 3 different sizes that I can remember, or you could pull the cartridge and take it with you to the store to make sure to get the correct size
here is a sample of what I think you need.


Help installing Nest Smoke/Co alarm to capped ceiling light wires

Based on information from Nest's website, the Nest Protect doesn't have wired interconnect, only wireless, so you shouldn't have to worry about the interconnect wire - unless your user manual says something differently?

I'm guessing that the white/braided wires with the white cap is your neutral line. Since there are three hot wires running through your junction, there would likely be three neutrals as well. This can be confirmed by:

Disabling power to your circuit (turn off breaker)
Disconnecting the wires under the white cap
Turn power back on and check to see if any lights don't work
If so, that's your neutral

As for joining into the black wire - I would try to remove the copper connector and then tie in your Nest's wire using a new wire nut. If the connector is crimped on too tightly, you'll have to clip the wires back just behind the connector, re-strip them, and then install the new wire nut.


If you are going that deep in the ground, your fence posts will be plenty stable by placing and packing the dirt back around them. To pack the dirt I use a 2X4 with the end cut down to size and rounded for a better feel as a handle, and for tighter places I use a 1X4. I would only do concrete around them if you are setting a large gate to a post.

If you must use portland, instead of the just add water type, the mix ratio is 1-2-3. 1 shovel portland, 2 shovels sand, 3 shovels gravel.


Wall mounted Heated towel rail plug not marked

Brown/blue and green with a yellow stripe are an EU standard.
More information on the coloring scheme can be found here:

Wiring color codes

Brown is the phase (hot; black in the US), and blue is the neutral (white in the US). The green/yellow wire is the ground wire (green or bare in the US).


How to treat exterior wood that has been exposed for long periods?

A good sealing primer is all that's really needed unless you have checking. In that case, a good wood filler will do. An oil-based primer might provide a more durable base and fill any fine cracks better.


What can I do if my wood boiler keeps tripping the high limit switch?

the fan should be run off of the aquastat with this limit switch only being used as a safety.  If your boiler were to run away and get over the 200 degree limit, the switch will open removing power to the fan, smothering the fire and cooling.  The limit switch has to be manually reset in order for your fan to kick back on.  I am going through a situation where my limit switch is set at 200 degrees, and my aquastat shuts my fans off at 190 to 195, so I have to constantly go out there to reset the limit switch.  My solution for this problem is they make limit switches for different temperatures, and I am going to install a 220 degree limit switch.  Hope this helps!


how operate ceiling fan with no reverse switch, without remote

Most receivers are built so they fit inside the fan box in between the fan hanger. I am assuming you have already tried that and it doesn't fit in there or in the junction box the bracket is attached to. I have never tried to put it in a switch box so I don't know the outcome of that.

What I have done is carefully cut the ceiling drywall around the hanger box and slipped the receiver up beside the junction box. If you feel you have to put a the receiver in a box you can do that also. If the hole is too big to cover it with the fan box cover you can use a medallion to cover the hole (get it) mess.

This is a fairly simple one but you could they come in various shapes and sizes. Also remember if you use something like this you might want to use some sort of extension ring or shield and it wouldn't hurt to have a 6-32 and a 8-32 screw kit for longer screws when needed.

FYI - I know it's a feature but I have never been much of a supporter of the reverse switch idea. Think about it, trying to take a fan and circulate heat down from the ceiling doesn't really make sense especially if you figure in the chill factor it creates. Also most modern ac systems will get enough of an air mix to correctly heat the air in an area, and what they can't solve with that they can aim the air with the registar. Most of the time, in my area people play with it once or twice and then forget about it. I have had more call backs on getting the air to blow down after the owner couldn't figure out that they had left the fan in a reverse mode than the other way around.

Hope this helps and good luck.


Should I add GFCI outlets in my bathrooms if those circuits already have a GFCI remote on them?

Your friend is out of his league here

A GFCI outlet has two sets of terminals on it -- LINE terminals for the power IN as well as LOAD terminals that connect to the GFCI's protected hot and neutral in addition to that protected hot and neutral being provided to the GFCI's face receptacles.  Hardwired applications can use what's called a "faceless" GFCI which just has the LOAD terminals instead of having both LOAD terminals and receptacles on the front; there are also GFCI circuit breakers that integrate ground-fault, short-circuit, and overcurrent protection into a standard circuit breaker package.

However, series GFCIs won't break anything

However, it is possible and permissible to connect two ground-fault trips in series -- nothing is harmed by that configuration, and it's more common than most people think.  The only problem you cause by that is confusion as it is indeterminate (i.e. not defined) which GFCI will trip in response to a ground fault.


Unwanted grounding from metal screws in metal boxes

I think the clever solution you're looking for is covering the screw with a square of white electrical tape to prevent yourself from touching the screw.

You could also purchase nylon 6-32 machine screws with a flat head which are non-conductive.

That only fixes the sympom of the problem, but not the cause. Your excessive static electricity is from low relative humidity levels in the air. Increase it to 30-40% RH and you'll be happier.


Electrical wiring for this ceiling lamp with many bulbs?

My concern would be heat in the bottles. I would definitely use LEDs - incandescent would produce way too much heat. An ordinary mass-produced, UL-listed item will have engineers figuring out heat dissipation requirements and testers to make sure it all works the way it is supposed to. With a homemade setup, you are on your own, so definitely design conservatively as much as you can. A glass bottle may seem little different from a common chandelier "globe". However, a glass bottle is designed to be sturdy and, to a limited degree, to actually keep heat out (i.e., to keep contents cold for a little while after removal from the refrigerator), so it may not dissipate heat as well as you might expect it to.

If it were me, prior to assembling the entire contraption, I would put one light in a bottle and hook it up and measure the temperature on the outside of the bottle. If it gets "too hot" (I know that's vague, not sure at the moment what temperature that would be), better to find that out with a couple hours of testing at a normal height than the hard way (shattered glass) above your hear in the middle of a party. Many materials will also suffer degradation from repeated heat/cool cycles, so heat dissipation is a long-term, cumulative (to some degree) issue.


BASEMENT EMT CONDUIT + 12G THNN WIRES + NM-B

While your local code amendments may differ, the following codes are recognized in the National Electrical Code 2014

Conductors entering boxes need to be closed and protected with approved means.

  314.17 Conductors Entering Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings Conductors entering boxes, conduit bodies, or fittings shall be protected from abrasion and shall comply with 314.17( A) through (D). (A) Openings to Be Closed. Openings through which conductors enter shall be closed in an approved manner.

An exception is allowed when NM wire is used BUT ONLY when a single gang box is used not larger than 2 ¼ in. × 4 in. and mounted on walls or ceilings and the cable is fastened within 8".

  314.17 (C) Exception: Where nonmetallic-sheathed cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used with single gang boxes not larger than a nominal size 57 mm × 100 mm (2 ¼ in. × 4 in.) mounted in walls or ceilings, and where the cable is fastened within 200 mm (8 in.) of the box measured along the sheath and where the sheath extends through a cable knockout not less than 6 mm (¼ in.), securing the cable to the box shall not be required. Multiple cable entries shall be permitted in a single cable knockout opening.

NM wire installed on A WALL of unfinished basements requires proper protection with conduit or similar tubing AND the conduit shall be provided with a insulated bushing or adapter at the point of entry.

  334.15 (C) In Unfinished Basements and Crawl Spaces.  Nonmetallic-sheathed cable installed on the wall of an unfinished basement shall be permitted to be installed in a listed conduit or tubing or shall be protected in accordance with 300.4. Conduit or tubing shall be provided with a suitable insulating bushing or adapter at the point the cable enters the raceway. The sheath of the nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall extend through the conduit or tubing and into the outlet or device box not less than 6 mm (¼ in.). The cable shall be secured within 300 mm (12 in.) of the point where the cable enters the conduit or tubing. Metal conduit, tubing, and metal outlet boxes shall be connected to an equipment grounding conductor complying with the provisions of 250.86 and 250.148.

Conductors entering building need protection.

  300.5 (D) (2) Conductors Entering Buildings. Conductors entering a building shall be protected to the point of entrance.


Electrical : can I attach metal flex to pvc conduit?

So long as the metal flex is bonded to ground (presumably at the panel you are going to) this is fine.

Where mixing PVC and metal gets difficult is when you have to manage to ground an otherwise isolated piece of metallic raceway - which can be done, it's just an extra hassle.


What is the purpose of prohibiting union coupler in concealed area?

Can't use bushings either (or street elbows, afaik). Presumably because of the existence of exterior threads on a fitting which makes it more subject to corrosion, each thread of which is an inherent shear plane.

"Caution: installing a bushing in a gas piping system in a concealed location can create a potentially explosive situation." – Residential Construction Academy: Plumbing, By Michael A. Joyce, Michael D. Joyce, Google Books


What does the "thickness" measurement in a t molding measurement actually describe?

This part is going to be 9/16" total thickness.  From the top to the bottom.  Only a more detailed drawing is going to tell the exact height and width of the tongue portion.


LED Light fitting has started making clicking sounds after power outage

I think it's the motion sensor, which this light is equipped with.

The motion sensor is probably not bespoke for this light, and is a commodity module.  The module supplier doesn't know if it will be controlling 0.05 amps or 5, so it uses a nice burly mechanical relay that is probably overkill for this light.  That's what you are hearing.

I also suspect the motion sensor may be designed for low voltage, which makes current proportionately larger (quite much larger for 12V). Current decides the relay size.


In a word, efficiency.  A variable speed motor can operate at a slower speed when less cooling is needed.  Lower speed means less power used, which saves money.


Both prongs of an outlet carries live electricity of a switched plug

Houses of that age will not have a grounding system. Also houses that age have switched neutrals. Meaning the neutral was switched instead of the hot. Back in that time no one really saw that as a problem until it lit up enough electricians to become something that needed to be changed.

By the way I don't think the first NEC didn't come out until somewhere around 1927. So you might want to get with someone and make plans and a budget to rework the electrical in that house because I am sure it is full of surprises.


oak chair remains sticky after using formbys refininisher

Different wood will dry at different rates.   So if you're touching a dry part and concluding "something must be wrong since it's not all dry", just wait.

I would not muss with any painted surface which is still tacky, unless you want the mussing material permanently embedded in the coating.

There are some additives you can add to oil-based coatings to make them dry faster.

It also helps to remove humidity, so if you're in a very muggy area (e.g. Florida or Ohio), consider putting it in a room with a dehumidifier.  Don't blast the dehumidifier straight at it, or you'll stick a bunch of dust to it.

If you want to hasten drying, try putting the item in your car (put down some plastic first) and leave the car out in the sun.  As you know from tragic stories about babies and dogs, car interiors get rather warm in the direct sun. If you don't want it to get to 160F, crack a window or two.  This will make your car smell funny for a day.

Keep in mind also: Curing is not the same thing as drying.  Dry means tack-free.  Cured means the coating has polymerized and reached full strength.  Most paints have a vulnerable time when they are tack-free, but hardly begun their cure.   I once sat in a "tack free" chair only to get up and find my denim pattern imprinted on the "tack free" surface.


Can I Combine Two Lights from Separate Breakers Into One Switch?

Yes, you can do this. You will need a double pole single throw switch. They are commonly available at your home stores.....  be careful not to get a 4-way switch... they look almost identical.


Is it necessary to replace a hot tub pump if its seal has a leak?

So, turns out that I was able to replace the pump seal and now everything is working fine.  Pretty crazy to think that the hot tub service company was going to charge $1000 for the new pump & plumbing vs. the


Why does my GFI keep going off? Is it dangerous?

I am not a professional electrician but one possibility is failing component.  If yours are plug in (or if you are happy with mains wiring) then try swapping the two dodgy ones with each other or with non-dodgy ones.  Make sure you swap like with like (current/wattage ratings etc).  Make sure you take all necessary precautions.

If the fault follows the component then it would point to a failed component.

If the fault doesn't follow the component but is on the same circuit then I would say there is something wrong with the install.  My top three issues are: water damage; rodent damage; or deteriorated installation.  Good luck trying to find it!

Water is notoriously nasty for troubleshooting and just because you found some at point B it isn't necessarily coming from point A (the closest source).  It could be coming from point R (a totally random point nowhere near).  It likes to follow the scenic route from source to where it manifests.

Yes it's dangerous! The GFI is there for a reason.  At least you have not said that you have forced it permanently on my taping it in the on position.  And that is not a suggestion.  DON'T DO IT!

Yes it could potentially cause a fire.  Especially if it is a fault in the installation.  It could be sparking unseen and sparks are a good source of fires.


Do I need outlets in a built-in bookshelf?

I read the 2017 code (clause 210.52(A)(2)(1)) as such:

  ... a wall space shall include ... any space 2ft or more in width and ... unbroken along the floor line by ... fixed cabinets that do not have countertops or similar work surfaces.

This says to me that walls on either side are to be treated separately, not that the cabinet requires outlets as though it was wall space. Therefore, you aren't required to fit outlets into your cabinet.


How do I cut a channel and plaster television cable work in a brick chimney?

The brickwork on a chimney breast of a 1900s house will be solid brick (not veneer).

Cutting a channel, fitting trunking and replastering is eminently sensible if that's the only way to go. It's also a job you can do your self with a masonry drill and cold chisel. Using an SDS drill with a chisel attachment will be quicker if messier.

Make sure you take the cable vertically (if possible) never diagonally across the wall. This will make it safer for future owners of your house.


Plumber's Putty on outside of tub drain is cracking: Replace with same or something better?

Plumber's putty would be used to attach the drain cover to the sink.  It creates a blockage and suctions both pieces together.

It should be a ring of plumber's putty, when smashed is maybe a 1/2" wide.

What you have is a DIY disaster and looks like someone was trying to use plumber's putty to repair a possible leak.  The problem is if it is exposed to "air" too long it eventually gets hard, dries out, and cracks... So not so good at repairing leaks in pipes.

I am guessing there is a leak in the pipe.  You probably need to reset the drain cover with new plumber's putty.  Once installed you should barely be able to see it from below.  You will probably also need to fix the pipe leak which may mean buying a few pieces of PVC, primer/glue, and an adapter.  If you are OK with doing it yourself it is a $15 job if that.


Why should you add dry mix to water and not the other way round

Yes, there is a very good reason.  If you add water to dry mix in the bottom of the container, you get a nearly impossible to incorporate glob of the dry mix at the bottom.
On the other hand, if you add it from the top, it's much easier to get it all incorporated.
This works with everything from pancake mix to drywall compound.
Try it each way and you'll see for yourself.


Any way to permanently seal natural stone slate tile floor?

There are long-term penetrating sealers that tend to last longer than the usual water-based sealants, but they generally do not create a top-coat.  Look for "penetrating" or "impregnating" sealers.

If you're trying to add a topical sealant (like urethane on wood), those also exist.  I believe they're usually wax-based, though, and I'm not sure how long they would last before you need to recoat.  Probably every couple of years, like fixer1234 said.  For those products, you would look for a "sealer and finish".  You may also be able to use something like a masonry sealer for concrete, but I would check product packaging beforehand.


Gravel patches in concrete after sanding

This doesn't need fixing, it's entirely cosmetic.

Your options are

ignore it, it's harmless.
re-sand the floor so the agregate shows through everywhere. some people like this textured look.
cover the floor with leveling compound. you'll get the old uniform grey colour.
use an opaque sealer. the sealer can be tinted to any colour you want.


What is necessary to make my old 3-wire 30-A dryer connection compliant with current code?

NEMA 10-30 receptacles are grandfathered, illegal for new installation but legal to leave alone if already installed. It is not safe and it has a body count.  It is legal because of lobbying by the appliance industry.

By modifying it you lose your grandfathering and make it illegal.

Your proposal solves the safety problem electrically, but mechanically it is not code legal.   I am reluctant to say it would be "safe" because generally, code is written in ash and blood, and they wouldn't outlaw a thing unless experience has shown it causes fire or fatality.

Your best bet is to retrofit a NEMA 14-30 4-pin receptacle, and connect hot-hot-neutral to those same wires on the 14-30.  Connect ground as follows:

Code (as of NEC 2014) allows you to retrofit just a ground wire, simply by running a solo ground wire.   It does not need to use the same route as the conductors.   It cannot simply go to the rod/pipe ground source that the panel uses.  It must go back to the panel, and the same panel as the conductors.

The ground path must be the required wire size its entire run.  As long as that is true, multiple circuits (out of the same panel) can share a ground wire when retrofitting grounds.


Serious corrosion of vent connector duct in gas hot water system

I would start with a couple of small 1/2” holes if you disable the damper totally you loose efficiency quickly where several smaller holes will allow a draft and the combustion moisture to dry 15 years is a fair amount of time but I have had systems last much longer in some cases when doing annual inspections I have recoated single wall with zinc rich paint it could have the last piece dipped in a batch but excess moisture is probably the cause so start small and see if that works without totally disabling the energy saving feature of your damper.


Is venting a vertical waste line required?

No, vents are not required for any random vertical drop. Only plumbing fixtures require vents.

The main point of the vents in the drain system is to let the air enter the pipes at the spots where water enters it too. Without vents two things would happen: First - poor drainage, as both water and air are competing for space in, say, your sink drain. Second - low pressure in the pipes, created by water draining through one fixture, might suck in water from other fixture's trap. Which would let nasty sewer gases into living quarters.

As there's no new water entering at your vertical drop, a vent there won't do anything at all.


Is negative pressure bad and how to fix?

Many homes have only one main return located at the air handler. The separate rooms have a supply but the return is the space/gap under the room door. While closing a room door might not affect cooling too much, a hallway door cutting off a number of bedrooms would have a major effect. Installing a through vent above the hallway door might be the answer.
I love whole house fans but you have to cover them up in the attic during AC season because the vent that comes with them is not insulated and any negative pressure will suck hot air out of the attic.


How much grease accidentally going down a drain is a concern?

In general, a one-time slip-up dumping grease down the sink won't cause any clogs. Grease creates clogs over time, by building up layer upon layer inside the pipe until water cannot pass through (easily) anymore.

This is most usually a problem with greases that are solid at room temperature but liquid at cooking temperature (or under hot water). When hot, it is liquid enough to be poured down a drain, but very soon after (i.e., while still in the pipes) it cools enough to solidify. It does this on the walls of your pipes. Cooling rates aren't uniform, so the grease doesn't always cool off and solidify into your pipes at the same place each time you pour it down the sink. Over time, enough eventually builds up to cause a blockage. Very similar to plaque building up on your artery walls and causing a heart attack.

Any kind of improper slope of your drain can exacerbate this, and cause the buildup to occur faster. A lot of bends in the pipes, excessively cold pipes, or debris in the pipes could accelerate this as well.

Running hot water down the drain will only push the problem further down the line, as you'll still have the problem of the grease (and water) cooling and solidifying.


Can I install 3-way switches using two 14/2 cables with another switch for a separate light?

The installer thought they could use 2 cables to get 4 conductors.  Not allowed per 300.3(B) due to AC magnetic effects (the same thing that makes transformers work that makes it even possible for the general public to have electric power.)
Use smart switches which use either wireless or powerline signaling, such as Intsteon... and then you can do this.

Black = always-hot
White = neutral
Red = switched-hot 1
Blue = switched-hot 2
You don't have to use colored tape to designate conductor by function, but it's cheap and it makes boxes a lot less confusing.


If it wasn't a QO or Murray panel... I would say this is just too close.  However, I think we can "cheat it", especially if you are willing to fit a subpanel.

I'll disregard the 120V loads for now; it looks like a gas dryer.  Based on what you've mentioned, it appears the large 240V loads are

30A sauna
40A range

If there are others, do the same thing with them.

Add a subpanel for your large loads

So add a small (16 space) "QO" main-lug subpanel right next to this panel, and migrate your large loads there - the sauna, 40A/range, and whatever other large appliances I haven't deduced.

Feed that subpanel from an appropriate 2-pole breaker in the panel.

Interlock the subpanel and 60A EVSE breakers

With this beauty, a $20 QO2DTI generator interlock.

This clips onto a 2-pole breaker and interlocks with a 2-pole breaker below it (or 1-pole breaker).  Only one can be on at a time: the loads in the subpanel, or the EVSE.

Note that normally, this is used where the breakers are backfeeding, and so the breakers need to be bolted down, requiring a separate bolt-down kit. However, since these are normal loads, they do not require a bolt-down.

Now you will need to turn off the one that's on, and turn on the one you want.

But it should solve the load factors in your panel. The 120V loads seem like a lot, but #1 they are split among the two poles, so it's only half what it appears; and #2 they are not likely to be all heavily loaded at the same time.  Probably your worst loads will be your 120V A/C units, and you should make sure there are evenly loaded on the 2 poles (2 on each pole).


Can a GFCI burn out a (ceiling fan) motor?

From the perspective of a motor, a GFCI looks exactly the same as any other circuit breaker.  The only difference is that a GFCI has extra circuitry which senses an imbalance between the black and white wires (plus control circuitry to trip the breaker)—nothing more.

Many modern ceiling fans seem to be cheaply made.  I suspect the failure is a quality control issue or an intentional cost cutting measure of the manufacturer.  If it is still in warranty, get it replaced.


Help me understand this basic Pool & Spa Combination plumbing diagram?

My understanding, which is very limited, is that this setup would be for a Spa that's physically higher or at least fills higher than the pool. The actuator valve would only keep both bodies at a level height & equally heated.

But, with the actuator valve's Spa return closed, only then can the Spa overfill & even up to an overspill. Also, this setup would then allow for the Spa to be overheated or heated above the pool's temperature.


Garden hose washer installation - which way?

"Bottom" i.e. closer to the item the female hose thread fitting is on, not the side that the male hose thread item will contact. Those are intended to drop behind the hose threads (there is usually a gap) to help retain the washer in the hose fitting.


What are these devices mounted on old fashioned domestic electric trunking?

What are these things (name)?

They are sometimes called "fuse-pots".

  What purpose do they serve?

They each contain two contacts which are bridged by a thin piece of fuse wire which connects the electrical supply to wiring to a specific individual circuit. They prevent your house burning down in the all-too-likely event that there is a malfunction in some equally ancient and uncared for wiring, switch, lampholder, wiring or appliance.

That is an antique fuseboard

See Architectural Salvage, Brighton, England.

Yours seem to be a later Bakelite version rather than ceramic.

The individual holders may have been called fuse-pots.

Note that some old fuse-boards had fuses on both live and neutral

They look rather similar to earlier 19th century fuse holders of the sort used in the 1890s.

Early Edison Fuse block in article Early Electrical Lighting in Homes
By Steve O'Bannon

"Very old Electrical Fuses", Alamy
"Germany, very old fusebox", Alamy

However these earlier ones are all screw-in fuses following an Edison design I think.

  Any idea how to open the cover if it refuses to? WD-40 threw in the towel

Please don't spray flammable fluids onto live 240V electrical installations.(my can of WD40 says "caution flammable" on the front)

I'd be surprised if there was anyone still alive with experience of dealing with these things. At least, not in my part of the world.

If I were in your shoes, my immediate priorities would be

Find and replace the protective covers.
Warn any adult occupants of this building not to touch any part of this panel.
Prevent children getting access to this area of the building.
Pay a qualified electrician to supply and install a modern consumer-unit (main panel) where the electrical supply enters the building. Have that electrician fit miniature circuit breakers (MCBs) and residual current devices (RCDs or GFCIs) or combined protective devices (RCBOs etc).
Take these antique fuse panels out of service and replace them with a properly protected junction box or similar.
Consider getting the wiring in the building removed and replaced. At least get it tested.

Having isolated the electrical supply to that panel, I would fabricate a removal tool by screwing four long screws part way into a wooden block and cutting off the heads to make short studs that fit those four holes. A small amount of penetrating oil might help but I suspect the chances of it making a difference are low. I'd have a fire extinguisher handy. Double check that power is off before going anywhere near that panel.


How to prevent two doors from opening into each other?

Based on your excellent diagram, I think these may be your ticket.  They are designed for your very problem.

Disclaimer: I've never bought anything from the site in the link and I'm not endorsing them.

The Stoppa


How do I wire my furnace humidifier so it comes on any time the fan is on?

You could use the EAC-1 terminal to power a step-down transformer. This is common with furnaces that energize the HUM terminal to line voltage.

Check the humidifier manufacturer, they should have a properly sized  transformer to fit this exact need. They should also have a wiring diagram for this type of setup, in the installation instructions.

Basically, the primary side of the transformer will connect to the EAC-1 terminal, and a neutral terminal on the furnace control board. Then the secondary side will power the humidifier.

Whenever EAC-1 is energized, it will power the transformer, and the humidifier will turn on.

As noted in the comments on the question, you may not get the expected results.


Need to attach deck ledger to house covering a vent

I would leave a gap in the ledger where the vent is, then cover that gap with a shorter piece of ledger board that overlaps, and is lag screwed to, the main ledger.  This will give your crawlspace vent 1 1/2" of breathing room, which should be fine for letting your crawlspace breathe.


In my part of the world rain gutters are rarely routed into either municipal sewers or storm drains, and runoff is almost never piped to the street. It's just a matter of routing runoff to a part of your lot that slopes away from the structure.


Prep for painting an old, interior, coquina rock fireplace wall?

So I jumped on YouTube to refresh my memory on dealing with this.

For a while people were just demo-ing them altogether.

You seem to implying an intent to fill and cover the entire surface for a smooth effect. Those projects tend to use preblended colored mortar (just add water), and they trowel it into all the cracks and holes.

The newer thing I found was people chiseling down and whitewashing (with a sprayer) the stone. Because of the application it covers all the surfaces for a very uniform updated look.

I would definitely send you to YouTube for more ideas if nothing else.
Search "Fireplace Makeover"


Yes, there are ways to repair this, but they aren't going to do you any aesthetic favors. In short, they'll be ugly, but functional repairs.

You don't have to replace the countertop if you're OK with the modified aesthetics.


How can I repair staining on a parquetry floor?

If water is absorbing this readily into your floor and discoloring it this much, it's probably time to refinish it.


Hot Tub/Spa 70A Subpanel/Electrical Disconnect Box Wiring

You'll need conduit for the whole run, but that means you can use 6AWG wires

You will need to run conduit for this entire run; loose wires by themselves just won't do as a wiring method (see NEC 300.3(A) for the reference on this).  However, this means you can use 6AWG THHNs (/THWN, since the stuff you get these days is all dual-rated anyway) for the hots and neutral as wires in conduit can use 75°C ampacities when terminating onto suitably rated lugs (as present on all modern distribution equipment), 6AWG copper wire can handle 65A when terminated on 75°C lugs, and NEC 240.4(B) permits you to "round up" to the next higher breaker size under most circumstances we encounter here.

As to what size conduit to run? I would use 3/4" ENT through the basement run through bored holes in the joists, and then use a LB and a short length  (<24") of 3/4" Schedule 80 PVC at the outdoor run to make the turn into the disconnect box.  The wires exiting the disconnect, then, are run in 3/4" LFMC, using appropriate fittings at each end.


What is this door lock hardware part called?

It’s called a “door lock rose” or “door lock rosette”. You can Google it or contact a door hardware supplier.
I’ve had excellent service from Emtek.com. Terrible website, but great customer service.


Does an electric stove burner element wear out over time?

They can indeed wear out, though it's much more exciting than what you describe - when the element in my oven (different location, same tech, 40+ years old) blew, it made a lovely arc, and I've heard people describe the same alarming thing happing on the stovetop, sometimes burning a hole in a pot.

I think what you are describing sounds more like the connectors that the elements plug into being dirty, worn, or generally connecting poorly - and once they start doing that, the connector heats up more, and that makes it more prone to corrode more, relaxes the springs, etc. making the problem worse.

There could also be a problem with the "proportional controller" which is what the setting dial adjusts - essentially a timer that sets the element on all the time on high, and turns it on and off when on lower settings, with longer off times and shorter on times at lower settings.


What is a reasonable depth and diameter for postholes dug in clay soil to support an 8' fence?

I say the 30" depth of post hole is adequate for said fence with given construction method; no need for additional support.


Do I need a pump for my water heater discharge pipe?

If the safety valve blows off due to over pressure and to a greater degree from overheating the discharge from that safety valve is usually  quick and violent. I hope that the pump and reservoir is of adequate size to hold a large amount of water and steam/water vapor. A special pump for this event is not necessary, just make sure it has a large pumping capacity.


How can I add lighting using 14/3 wire to an existing 20A circuit?

You can not use 14 awg wire on a 20 amp protected circuit it would violate code and create a fire hazard.
One example is 14 awg wire can fit into back stabs and even on 15 amp circuits these regularly fail on a 20 amp circuit they would be a fire hazard.
You can use an extension cord and there are several reasons this can be safe. Extension cords are temporary and not made for multiple loads like the premises wiring is.
I bet you did not know that 14 awg extension cords usually have a higher ampacity than the wire in your walls. NEC table 400.5.A.1  Example 14 awg has an 18 amp current rating for most types and some are even 20 amps. Why the conductors are not enclosed by the structure and don’t have insulation around them.
So although it may sound ok it is a huge code violation and liability if there was a fire and someone got hurt you would be the one responsible.


Q:  "emergency heat or electric space heaters...more efficient for short-term heating?"

A:  The efficiency is identical because they both supply heat from resistive electric heating elements.  The operating cost of the emergency heat is likely to be more expensive because they are large heaters that heat the whole house, whereas the space heaters can be used to heat only the occupied rooms.

Q:  "Is there a place on the air handlers, where the wattage for the heat coils can normally be found?"

A:  The information is not always easy to find since most fan-coil units accept a wide range of heating elements.  It is most likely on the electric heat coil unit itself, inside the fan-coil box, downstream of the refrigeration coils and the blower.  Very roughly, the emergency heat is likely about 1/2 to 2/3 the rated capacity of the heat pump.  To estimate this number in KW, divide the BTU/hr of the unit by 3412.  For example, a 48000 BTU/hr heat pump would be 48000 / 3412 = 14 KW.  An electric heater about 2/3 that size would be 10 KW.


Can I splice and extend feeder wires to a barn?

Since you are pulling in conduit, you don't need a full blown box for this job.  Simply use an appropriately sized, weatherproof conduit body (a Type C is what you want, by the way) made from the same material as your conduit.

However, you will need to use the 314.28(A)(2) rule that the body must be no shorter than six times the distance from the entrance to the opposite wall/exit in order to size the body correctly, as you are splicing 4AWG or larger conductors in the body.


How dangerous is it to leave a 35KVA diesel generator ungrounded?

Temporary structures and (cheap) workers - permanent graves...

The generator should be properly earthed or grounded as per the manufacturer's instructions and / or relevant codes in the area.

And so should all the structures and any other electrical devices.


Can I use THHN/THWN-2 within a lamp post?

Yes, you can run THHN/THWN conductors inside the lamp post and up to the fixture. No need to run the conduit all the way to the top.


Calculating the inner diameter of a sleeve for wrapping a bundle cables in a house

I would not attempt bundling the cables before installing them in the sleeves / conduits / raceways, it will be counterproductive.

Electrical codes have guidelines for conduit fill.  For example in the US, the National Electrical Code has a base rule for power wiring that you can fill 40% of the cross sectional area of a conduit or raceway.  (I am oversimplifying, there's more to these rules, but not important here.)

The 40% guideline doesn't really apply as a rule to a protective sleeve for ethernet cables, but it is still a good guideline for you to use.  You can cheat a little, especially if the conduit is more or less straight.  It can get hard to pull more cable than this through conduit, and you should not tug very hard on ethernet cables.

Incidentally, be aware that there are limits on how many bends you can have in a conduit / raceway because as you accumulate bends it gets very hard to pull cable through.  Do not cheat on this part - in fact try to have less bends than the rules permit.  The NEC allows 360 degrees of total bend (for example, four 90 degree bends, eight 45 degree bends, etc.) but for communications, it's better to limit it to 270 degrees total bend.

You are using wire gauges for your cables but those are irrelevant, what matters is the outer diameter of the cable jackets.

The cross sectional fill is easy enough to calculate, but you can find lots of conduit fill charts and calculators online that will do the math for you.  The code / algorithm snippets in the question are the kind of logic embedded in those calculators.


Are there any special steps when installing drywall over vapour barrier?

Typically, nothing is done. That puncture should be at a tight connection of drywall to stud, where airflow is impeded by the pressure of the screw holding the drywall and vapor barrier to the stud.

The vapor barrier isn't an impermeable seal, it just dramatically reduces movement of air and vapor between interior space and exterior walls.


How do I prepare patched drywall to be painted over?

Patching:

When patching smaller holes, a 6" taping knife should suffice.

Apply the compound in a few light coats rather than a single heavy coat, and sand between each coat.

You can either sand the patch using a sanding block like the 3M® Fine/Medium Large Drywall Sanding Sponge,

or wet sand using a slightly damp rag. If you choose to wet sand, let the area dry before applying the next coat.

For larger holes, you'll have to fill the hole with something solid before you apply compound (don't try to fill the hole with mud). Once the hole is filled, start with a 6" taping knife for the first coat. Next, apply a few thin coats using a 10" taping knife

feathering the compound out to blend into the wall.

When working with drywall compound it's a good idea to use a Hawk, or a mud pan instead of working directly from the bucket. This will insure that you don't end up with little bits of junk in the compound, and that the compound in the bucket won't dry out too much while you're working. They are also good for catching falling mud.

Preparing the wall:

Wipe the wall down with a dry rag, to remove any dust and dirt. Prime the whole wall with a proper primer, like Glidden Gripper.

Any time you patch, it's a good idea to prime the entire wall. If you simply prime the patches, you may be able to see the patches when you're done.

Painting:

Apply 2 coats of the desired paint, and you're done.

If the patches were done properly (smooth and blended appropriately), after primer and two coats of paint you'll never know there was a patch there.

NOTE: Products mentioned in this answer are for example only, I do not specifically endorse or recommend the use of any products mentioned.


Your sink probably isn't painted. Copper goes through several stages of oxidation (roughly the equivalent of iron rust). The final patina is the dark, durable finish you see there. Painting it would've completely defeated the point of building it with copper in the first place.

Over time copper will naturally change colors – transforming from a shiny brown color to darker browns, then blues and finally greens after a number of years.  When exposed to the natural elements such as wind and rain, copper develops this “patina” which actually protects and preserves the metal underneath.
https://www.crescentcitycopper.com/why-does-copper-turn-green.htm

Your sink probably doesn't ever get to the green that article mentions due to the regular wear of use and cleaning. You'll want to just give it time to re-oxidize. There may be chemical methods of accelerating the process, but you risk doing more harm than good.


How can I seal electric outlets to prevent garage fumes from seeping through?

Access from behind
If you have access to the back side of the electrical boxes, you can seal them using a moldable putty in sheet form. 3M™ manufacturers 3M™ Fire Barrier Moldable Putty Pads, which are intended to be used as a firestop but will also block air flow.

This is probably a good thing to do anyway, since garage walls/ceilings should be a firestop anyway.
No access from behind
If you don't have access to the back of the boxes, you'll have to seal them from the inside.  To do this, you'll have to use a couple different products.  Seal the openings where the cables enter the box using Duct Seal, making sure to get a good seal all the way around the cables. Duct Seal is a permanently soft, non-toxic compound, that can be molded to seal around cable penetrations.

Then install foam gaskets under the cover plates.


What size posts do I need to use to build a wooden driveway gate?

The rule of thumb I know that applies here tells me to use at least 6"x6" posts for wide gates concreted into a 3ft deep hole. By preference I'd go for a single larger post and go deeper than you suggest. You might get away with firmly bolting the two posts together, but I would be wary about compromising on the depth...


How should I repair these very damaged floor boards?

You'll never get it to match.  Even if you bought the exact same stain and exact same varnish, it still wouldn't match because the rest of the floor has aged.

The only real solution to this is to refinish the entire floor by sanding it down and re-staining.  While a lot of work, it is in the realm of do-it-yourselfers if you have the right tools and some patience.

You mentioned an apartment - if you are a renter you should get permission from the landlord before you try any type of repair by yourself.


The simplest solution will be to install a larger door sweep on the inside. Sweeps come in a variety of sizes and styles. Check the out at any home improvement store. They easily attach to the door with a few screws and are adjustable so you can be sure they gently touch the floor and solve your gap problem


Going from conduit to NM in new framed wall (commercial)

"In the way of a stud" implies a heck of a lot more stud consistency than is actually required in a (pretty clearly) non-load-bearing wall, for one thing. But if you feel you must, if there's no wire into the wall from that box, you can reposition the box by pulling out the wire, cutting the conduit and using a conduit coupling to shift the position of the box along the conduit by the amount you cut off. Of course, at that point you need new wires on whichever side got longer in that event, since you would otherwise need an accessible junction box where the box you want to move was.

NM cable is generally not allowed in commercial, for another.

And junction boxes cannot be covered up, period. They can, however, be extended to the face of the wall (look at box extension rings, they clip to the box like a cover at one end, and take the box cover at the other end. Alternatively, there are standard access panels to install in drywall and give more working room (if the wires won't come out to the face of an extended box, you once again need new longer wires that will. A panel makes the original non-extended box accessible.)

Personally, I'd suggest getting comfortable with bending EMT - it's not hard, and it's got some advantages over MC in my opinion (you can pull wires as needed, for the most obvious point.) MC may be an easier concept if you think like NM but need to work commercial, but in many cases EMT will also come out cheaper all told.


Radon fan with submersible pump. Is this normal?

That thing is called a sump pump.  It has nothing to do with your radon or your heat pump.   It has one purpose, removing groundwater from your basement.   Without it, your basement may eventually flood.

The water at the bottom of the sump is normal. This is what primes the pump.  Many pumps rely on hydraulic lock (the incompressibility of water) to function aka to "prime"... And also need the water as a coolant and lubricant.  So don't be surprised when you find a pump that Does Not Like running dry.


What would cause my dishwasher to leak when it starts filling?

Bad Seal! Or cracked pipe.

You will need to take it out completely.

Properly dismantle it  in and open space and trace/examine the source while the power is on

(this can be dangerous so do not take chances)

If it only happens on the start- maybe it the inlet pipe cracked, seal perished.

If you do not feel comfortable with dissembling it call a recommended local service man.


Outlet installation in metal electrical box

In my opinion, no, this is not "proper".  If your receptacle moves enough when plugging thing in to short out to the box, then you have other problems. The receptacle should be rigidly attached, so that it does not move during normal use.

A mistake I have seen made, is where the unused screw terminals are not tightened down. Depending on the size of the box, this can put the terminal screw quite close to the wall of the box.  Which means it only takes a slight bit of movement, to get the screw to make contact with the wall of the box.

Another mistake is to carelessly tuck the grounding conductors into the box, so that the bare ground can come into contact with the ungrounded (hot) terminals.

If you do decide to wrap the receptacle in tape, you should not have to worry about higher temperatures.


What does "new construction only" mean for Recessed Light Housing?

Unless there are other restrictions such as clearance to framing members or insulation or open space above them you can use them.  "New construction" is when the framing is open and not covered by drywall*; the fixture is typically attached to a framing member.  As opposed to "old work" which is where it's closed on both sides and you're going through a small hole in the drywall; the fixture is often attached by clamps to the drywall itself.

* With some "new construction" fixtures you need to have the wall open on the side you're working; with others you can get away with having just the other side open because the fixture will give you enough room to work in.


This can be caused by a bootleg ground together with a poor neutral connection at the service panel.

  In building wiring, a bootleg ground is an electrical ground that is wired from the neutral side of a receptacle or light fixture in an older 2-wire home. This essentially connects the neutral side of the receptacle to the casing of an appliance or lamp. It can be a hazard because the neutral wire is a current-carrying conductor, which means the casing can become energized.

You have probably encountered the combination of bootleg grounds on some of your receptacles, and a failing neutral path somewhere between the receptacle and the neutral connection from the power utility.

Here are some diagrams that you can show to your local electrician:

Home wiring with correct fault grounding:

This is the correct way to protect against the appliance case accidentally becoming electrified. If the hot wire (red) insulation fails inside the appliance, the casing will become hot, and almost instantly the circuit breaker will open.

Home wiring without fault grounding:

The earliest home wiring in my country (USA) didn't have fault grounding, and the appliances of that era didn't have little green ground wires.

Using a modern appliance in such an old house involves living without fault ground protection. As you can see from the diagram, there is obviously no place for the appliance's fault ground connection to go. Most users either use an adapter incorrectly, or break the round ground pin off the plug.

Bootleg ground -- what you evidently have:

Unscrupulous home sellers and misguided handymen may for various reasons connect the fault ground to the neutral wire inside the receptacle.

Sellers do this because they want to give the appearance of fault ground wiring in the house. An untrained repairman may do this because he thinks it is safer than leaving the ground disconnected.

Dangerous failure in a bootlegged circuit:

In every country, as far as I know, the neutral service connection is held near earth potential by the utility company's wiring, so connecting an appliance's fault ground to the neutral wire does provide some protection against an insulation failure inside the appliance.

BUT it introduces a more dangerous and much more common failure mode, the broken neutral. You are much more likely to encounter a corroded or broken neutral wire in an old house than you are to encounter failed insulation in a new appliance. The neutrals are usually clamped to a copper bar in the service panel, and these connections will become corroded over time.

When the neutral path is broken anywhere between the bootleg ground and the service panel, everything that is "grounded" becomes live. You can trace the path in the diagram, from the circuit breaker, thru the hot wire (red), thru the appliance load, down the neutral wire (blue), thru the bootleg connection, and thru the ground wire (green) back to the appliance casing. Because of the high resistance of the failing neutral (probably at the service panel), the appliance casing will be energized and current will flow to nearby earth through any accidental path provided, such as you.

Now, it's true that any current that flows through a person touching an appliance casing must also flow through the appliance loads, which is probably the only reason you are still alive. Note that the more appliances you have running the greater the shock you will get.

Connecting a ground wire to the plumbing is a stopgap that may prevent you being electrocuted by touching an appliance, but it introduces a new problem: you can now be electrocuted by touching your plumbing.

You are not going to be able to safely fix this yourself. You must call a licensed professional electrician. Even if you applied some repairs and got rid of the symptoms, without training and experience you might not find all the problems, and would be subjected to dangers later on.


Are two 8' grounding rods and clamps on the gas and water service necessary for 25 ohms?

Yes the additional water and gas lines need to be connected but it is not necessarily for grounding resistance.
The gas meter is grounded not to be part of the grounding electrode system but because the internal pipes may become energized. Code actually requires this.
The water pipes, if not part of the grounding electrode system, may also become energized thus need to be connected to the system.
You may find out the water pipes and your 2 electrodes do not get you down to 25 ohms. When I first started taking measurements, I expected very low values with water pipes and ground rods, but found quite often the values were above 25 ohms. In fact, many times I saw values up to 4x or close to 100 ohms, unless I connected the well casing or an Ufer ground.
So the more grounding you have the better:

25 ohms =4.8 amps to ground
15 amps to ground 8 ohms
20 amps to ground 6 ohms

The max voltage to ground in residential with split-phase 240v service
is 120v to ground so you can see to clear a 20 amp breaker your grounding resistance for a fault would need to be below 6 ohms.
So it is code if metallic water pipes and gas lines for them to be bonded to your electrode system.
The best grounds turn out to be Ufer or concrete encased and water pipe (well casings are great but only require bonding if there is a pump).
Some older homes have disconnected from their wells for city water hook ups.  Your 2 ea 8’ rods separated by at least 6’ are the minimum code allowed.