Most likely scenario: your main has a connection to the bus inside of the panel that distributes the power to all of the other feeder breakers. That connection is likely bad / corroded / burned, something that is creating high resistance. With no lod, your tick tracer picks up that there is voltage present, but as soon as you apply a load to it, the resistance causes the voltage to drop to effectively zero. Resetting the main breaker wiggles it a little to make just enough of a connection to satisfy that tick tracer, but that's it.

This is your life and safety involved here, the next phase of development of this problem may be a fire. you need to call an electrician.


Based on your description, your basement walls likely have no asbestos in them. But that's the least of your worries; a crumbling foundation is a major problem! This is not a DIY job unless you are have professional experience with structural engineering, foundation repair, and concrete pouring. Call in a pro. And make sure this doesn't happen again by improving the drainage outside of the basement. There are many ways to do this, from improving the grading to installing drain tile to building a subterranean roof. It all depends on the conditions at the site.


Replacing two-plug outlet with one plug + one guidelight

The old receptacle connected the wires together internally, so you'll have to do it external to the device now.

Using a twist-on wire connector (or similar), connect both the whites together with a short piece of scrap wire of the same color and size. Then connect the other end of the scrap piece of wire, to the silver "neutral" terminal on the new device.

This is known as a "pigtail", and is a common method for joining multiple wires to a single terminal.

Do the same with the black ("hot") wires, connecting the pigtail to the brass colored screw terminal on the device.

Finally follow the same procedure with the grounding conductors, attaching the pigtail to the green screw terminal.


Can upward-facing receptacles be installed flush to a kitchen island countertop?

The countertop issue has changed recently in the NEC code, so you need to find out which version is applicable for your jurisdiction (assuming you are subject to the NEC at all). In version 2011 and prior it was not permitted to install any face-up receptacles in an counter. Starting in 2014 (and the brand new 2017), you may install a receptacle in a counter only if it is specifically designed and listed for that application. (E.g. at random, this countertop pop-up receptacle).

The NEC does treat kitchen islands differently than regular countertop and peninsulas. You are required to have at least one receptacle. Normally outlets are required to be above the counter but for islands you are permitted to install the outlet below the counter (not more than 12" below), and there must be less than 6" overhang at that spot.

So if you are subject to NEC 2014 you could go with a pop-up receptacle. If you are on 2011 or older you must put one in the side somewhere. Under no circumstances are you allowed to install a regular outlet face-up.


Changing light fixture and wanting to know colour codings for cables

Don’t rely on colors, use a multimeter and check which is what.

While it may have started out ok someone else could have played in the past... So be safe and check. I only trust wiring I have done...


3-prong to 2-prong extension cord/dimmer connections

Setting aside the issue of defeating ground wires, there's a more fundamental problem.

Actually, the lamp's ground pin is trying to protect you from this mistake.

Dimming does not work that way

The "transformer" is in fact a digital switching power supply (unless it weighs five pounds, then it really is a transformer, but I doubt it). Either way, dimming will not work with it.

The transformer will see the dimmed signal as dirty power, which it will try to clean up - getting hot as it does.  Too hot.

The switching power supply will see the dimmed signal as a brownout or defective power, and work around it - doing its level best to draw rated power anyway.  So the dimming won't work well, and will heat up, overcurrent and burn up the internal electronics of the power supply.

Both of these are precisely the types of loads which should not be dimmed.  And they put a 3-prong outlet on there, both to safety-ground the power conversion apparatus, and to try to keep you from plugging it into one of those plug-in dimmers on the cord.

How dimming really works on this type of light

Now you haven't said boo about what exact kind it is.  There are low-voltage lights which still use AC and incandescents, and this doesn't apply to them (the idea they need to be dimmed on the low-voltage side applies).  I'm assuming this is a modern light, that is LED, and runs on DC voltage.

LEDs are actually, internally, run on DC power.  Sometimes fairly high voltage DC, but also sometimes a low voltage in the 11-28 volt range.  Now, if this is a constant-current power supply -- the label will tell, by saying a range of output voltages but one output current -- then the power supply itself needs to do the dimming, by reducing current flow.  It may be possible to change it to one that does that, if the current value is respected.

Many LEDs lights, especially low-production/specialty/homebrew ones, are actually constant-voltage DC.  They specify 12 or 24 volts DC at a range (or maximum) of output currents.  Tear the individual LEDs are resistors to make them work right on 12 or 24 volts.  These dim using a technique called PWM, and the dimming is on the DC side.  So you need to look for a 12-24V PWM dimmer, and find a form-factor that will let you build it into the LED or cord.


Furnace Tries 2 or 3 times before staying on until reaching set temperature

Well, I know this post is old but a simple way to test your pressure switch is to turn off your furnace first and close the gas valve for safety, then gently unhook the air tubing from your draft inducer and gently suck on it using just the suction your mouth creates, I wouldn't inhale it, you should hear the pressure switch click and feel a restriction while sucking on it.  If you do not hear a click, can keep pulling air, or cannot pull any air at all your pressure switch is probably bad.  If your pressure switch tests good, then try cleaning out the inducer connector it could have junk in it.  If it does have junk in it, it may be a good idea to change it out because it is probably rust.  That is what was wrong with mine.  I had a faulty pressure switch and s rusted out inducer fan.  The inducer motor itself ran fine.  After changing out the pressure switch it still would not fire up.  So i pulled off inducer motor and the fan was completely rusted out.


Staple through a small electrical wire, will it still work correctly?

Wrong kind of staples. Eventually they might all abrade the cable, whether or not you stapled right through it and present a fire hazard. Replacing the cable would be best. Inspecting the damage would be good, but then you'd have a splice to deal with or have to re-insulate, both having to be waterproof. Damaged insulation can be fixed, but we don't know how bad the wire got nicked (also a fire hazard).

Plastic Insulated Cable Staples: (Ideal)


Installing a stud wall without connecting to ceiling?

Often walls in office buildings do not extend to the roof or floor above. (Suspended ceilings are installed in the offices.)

If the room is about 12’ or so with a double top plate, it probably doesn’t need to be braced. If it’s over 12’ or so, I’d add a 2x4 brace from the top of the wall up to the floor above.


Best way to cover bedroom doorway that has no door?

A heavy or multi-layered or heavy multi-layered curtain would attenuate sound as well as many doors, and seems about right for this "wall" as described. Sandwich a blanket (or more than one) between more decorative surface layers.


How do I repair a broken garage door opener arm bracket?

You might be missing the point.

Most people have only ever pushed buttons and never actually lifted a garage door, so it's easy hold the belief that a garage door is a massive 200 pound behemoth that can only possibly be opened with a burly machine.   That's absolutely untrue.

Garage doors are balanced by their springs.  Opening forces are only a few pounds.   When a power opener lifts a door, it's more like walking an old lady across the street.   At least when things are working.

Before openers, if a garage door was having problems, you'd know it immediately because you'd feel it bind, and you'd fix it early.   Now that we push buttons, the lifter just muscles the door through the defect, which of course does nothing to improve the situation.  Eventually the lifter stalls, the lifting arm breaks, or the door tears itself apart.  That last case is super bad:  Since doors amount to a spring balanced against gravity, doors contain lethal amounts of energy at all times. If a door fails, it can kill you.

So when a lifting arm breaks, that's your deity looking out for you.  Think of a weak lifting arm like a fuse that protects your wiring, or like the spillway that protects the dam.  You don't want to defeat that.

Fix your door.

Something is binding seriously in the door.  The door is trammed due to a broken lifting cable, a spring has broken, rollers are off their track or seriously damaged, etc.  Focus on that.


Where do I install my hairpin legs on this 8 foot long butcher block for my new workstation desk?

Yes to pilot holes. #10 or #12 pan head screws, 1-1/2" long.
Subtleties in leg positioning aren't going to matter. If, as @FreeMan suggests, the desk has wobble problems, you could put two struts on the back legs that form triangles. Or you could tie it to a wall with a bracket if you had a wall handy.
For anyone facing the same questions about sag, the Sagulator, http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ is a great resource to see if a given piece of wood or wood product will sag under a particular design load. If the OP had a flimsier piece of wood, that might have guided the positioning of the legs or changed the design.


I don't think there is ever a "maximum" you can have on a horizontal run.  Of course everything needs to have the required slope and you may not have enough vertical space to get it.  The required slope depends on the size of the pipe.

IPC table 704.1 shows that a pipe with an ID of 2.5" or less needs 1/4" per foot.  While a pipe that is 3" to 6" only needs 1/8" per foot.

In your case, with 2.5" or smaller pipe and a developed length of 35 feet you need a total drop of 8 3/4 inches (or put another way, the pipe must start 8 3/4 inches above where you will connect to the stack).  For 3 to 6 inch pipe you just need 4.375" of drop.


How are sacrificial anodes electrically bonded to the water heater?

The anode needs to have continuity to work, the Teflon or PFTE fills the voids to create the seal but the threads cut through and make contact. If you would like to verify this put some tape on screw it in and then remove, you will see small areas have cut through the tape and this is all that is needed.


How can I temporarily fix rotted soffit, fascia, and vented panels?

If there's really no possible way to fix it then yes, a tarp which is properly added willhelp protect from any further water damage. Simply stapling it isn't sufficient for more than a day or two: winds will either pull the staples loose or tear the tarp, or both. The best way would be to get a tarp which is much larger than you need and some 2x4s. In the places where you are affixing the tarp to the structure, wrap the end of the tarp around the 2x4 a couple of times, and then nail or screw through the 2x4 into the structure. Make sure you get into some solid wood (a joist or stud) instead of just the sheathing.

In your situation (older, not financially or otherwise able to fix it properly) I would reach out to family and friends, and/or check with local government. Someone should be willing to help you out, or maybe there is a local non-profit who can help.


Assuming it's anything like the US, you'll have a dedicated breaker for the stove in your electrical panel.  Shut it off first (really, it would be a good idea to do that before moving the stove for the renovation).  With the power turned off, you can remove the wall plate (I don't see screws in your picture, so you may just have to pry it off) and/or remove any connectors or covers on the stove to find the connection.  Just double check that the power is shutoff before you go near this with a screw driver or bare hands.


How can one replace a Lori branded lock that won't fit in a new door

I had a lot of trouble finding information on this lock and I'm pretty sure this style is not as common as I've never encountered it before. When I realized that my key for it was a Kwikset keyway, I determined that it is the same keyway used on the user rekeyable smartkey locks so I ordered a Kwikset 980 (~$25) and was able to re-key it to the Lori key.
Your results may vary
I called Kwikset support to ask if I'd be able to use a non-kwikset key (although it is a Kwikset KW1 keyway) on the smart lock. I was told it may or may not work and they guy had never heard of Lori locks.
In this case, I'm happy it worked.


Should I glue or nail hardwood flooring in several widths up to 6 inches?

I like installing solid wood on sleepers, but it requires an extra 3/4” depth for the floor installation.

I’d also acclimate the wood to the room for a couple weeks prior to installation. To me, acclimation means separating the boards and spreading them out on the floor...do not leave them bundled.

Then, I like nailing the boards to the sleepers through the tongue side at about 12” - 16” oc. Stagger the sleepers under the boards and leave about 1/2” air gap at the edges. (I’ve installed boards like this in gymnasiums, but we use thicker boards, thicker sleepers and we leave a 2” gap at the edges. )

One trick to make sure the tongue and groove is milled properly is to hold one board vertically and jam another into the t&g edge. It should fit snug. If it holds and doesn’t slip out, then it’s fine. If not, the boards will wiggle and creak when walked on. Try lots of boards using both edges.

Oh, we stain prior to installation, but seal after.

Oh, for best results, install in the dry season...for obvious reasons.


How can I bore deep straight holes through wood?

This is where a drill press comes in handy.

Drill guides are also available, but I've not had good luck with them.


be very careful, the neutral on your breaker may be conducting all neutral current to ground through the ground ofwhatever 's connected to that breaker.
if you are not careful that current will flow through you or something else.

it's probably time for a licenced electrician l to take a look at your  circuit breaker panel


How do I replace a storm door when I have a cracked door jamb?

I agree with Jeff Widmer -- you don't need a bigger/stronger bracket, as it's not the bracket that failed, but longer screws to properly fasten the bracket.

Given that, your jamb repair doesn't need to be structural so don't sweat how strong it is and just make it look nice with whatever product you've used before and liked.  After you drill your pilot holes for the new bracket screws, drill out the repaired jamb with a bit that's larger than the screw threads so the screws don't stress your repair.  Of course you want this larger hole to only be the depth of the jamb, maybe 3/4".


How crucial is a filter for your tankless water heater?

This will extend the life of the tankless.

It will indeed extend the life of the water heater, because the filter will capture and trap any debris or particles that would otherwise interfere with the operation of your tankless water heater.

  How crucial is this?

What it will not do is prevent or replace what is crucial, and that is the maintenance of the water heater.

An ongoing maintenance requirement is to make sure your heat exchange elements are free from scale buildup, usually lime scale. What looks like a light coating of scale buildup can have serious impacts on the efficiency of the system. If left unchecked, such buildup can cause longer burner cycles, leading to a strained system and a shorter lifespan.

  We do not have soft water here in Los Angeles. Does this factor into the decision of whether or not to install a filter?

I have a water well and the water is definitely hard and a water softener has been installed. If the water softener levels are off a little bit, the lime/scale and calcium build is much faster. Shower heads get clogged etc. This is the same thing taking place in the water heater. So again maintenance is important and do not solely rely on the filter by any means.

If you have the finances, I would strongly suggest the water softener.


What resources can teach me to draw floor plans by hand?

Drafting "by hand" is still taught in most architecture (and often civil engineering) schools. AutoCAD is simply one tool in the toolbox of a draftsman.

So, I would look for a book on basic architectural drafting. You might see if you can get in touch with the drafting teacher at your local high school or community college and see what he uses as a textbook.

As for being able to "sketch" ideas, only the very roughest plans are drawn freehand. Artist's renderings and some elevation drawings will have an element of freehand to them, but the main lines of the building will be drawn with the paper taped to the drafting table and using a straightedge and speed squares.


How to wire a portable generator to a irrigation pump

Your pump doesn't use neutral.  So there's no need or reason to modify anything.

Regardless... You would never modify an extension cord like that, because then it'd be dangerous to use anyplace else.  If you must violate Code, you can do it more sanely by getting a NEMA 5-20 plug, and jumper it internally neutral to ground with a #12 wire, and just plug it into the generator in an unused 5-20 socket.

A 5-20 plug looks like a common 5-15 but with a sideways neutral.  The beauty of it is the generator will take it, but few other sockets will.


A lot will depend upon the type of surface that the new flooring will be placed over. Epoxy floor covering may be best if over concrete sub floor. For other types of subfloors sheet vinyl may go a long way toward providing the look you want.

Proper preparation of the subfloor will be essential to getting a great look.

Here are some sheet vinyl ideas:

http://www.spec-net.com.au/press/0506/pla_030506.htm


Home value - relocating laundry to basement?

Adding bathrooms is, superficially at least, a good way to improve the appearance of real estate listings. This can bring more interest. Whether you can expect to achieve a higher sale price as a result is unclear. Main floor laundry is also a desirable feature.


Here is a list of possible issues:

Solution 1:
Drive Block or Bell
The drive block connects the washer transmission to the agitator. If the drive block is worn out, the transmission shaft will still move back and forth, but the agitator will only move slightly or will not move at all. Inspect the drive block for damage. If the drive block is worn out, stripped, or damaged, replace it.

Solution 2:
Drive Belt
Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.

Solution 3:
Drive Motor (MOST LIKELY NOT YOUR ISSUE)
The drive motor might be defective. However, the drive motor is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the drive motor, first check all of the more commonly defective washer components. If none of those components are defective, consider replacing the drive motor. To determine if the drive motor is defective, first ensure that the motor is getting power. If the drive motor hums but doesn’t run, is noisy, or does not turn freely, replace it.

Solution 4:
Door Lock (MOST LIKELY NOT YOUR ISSUE)
The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer door will not latch properly. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, use a multimeter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity.

Solution 5:
Agitator Assembly
The agitator might be damaged or stripped away where it connects to the drive system inside. To determine if the agitator is stripped inside remove it from the washer and inspect for damage or wear.

Solution 6:
Transmission
The washer transmission might be worn out or defective. Transmissions have gears in them that can fail causing the washer to not spin. However, this is almost never the case. Before replacing the transmission, first check all of the other more commonly defective parts.

Here are a few diagrams:


Finding the right size of nut for a bolt

Judging by the pitch and diameter you've measured, what you probably have is an American UNC 6-32 screw.
There are many conversion charts on the interwebs, but if you refer to this one in particular you can see the diameter for a #6 thread is 0.138" or 3.5mm.
The 2nd number in the UNC scheme is the number of threads per inch, so taking 25.4mm per inch and dividing by 32 gives you 0.79375mm - suspiciously close to your measured 0.8mm.


Why doesn't duct tape work well on cables?

To answer your questions:

"Why doesn't duct tape work for cables? Is it the fault of plasticizers? " - No -- it is more likely that exposure to air dries the glue, causing it to eventually lose its tack and become unstuck. This is also the reason that you're often left with sticky residue, as air was unable to penetrate to the underside of the glue.
"Does the sticky film pose a health risk?" - The 3M MSDS does not list any potential health hazards associated with physical contact.
"[...] alternative adhesive tape that works with cables? [...] strong enough to hold cables to a wall." - For simply bundling cables, I like to use the the Velcro cable ties. I do not suggest buying them from general/electronics stores, where a pack of 10 may cost you $5 -- I get mine from Home Depot in the area with the other velcro, which has 2 small rolls of 25 (50 total) for ~$5.

Tape will never make for much of a semi-permanent wall mounting solution, as it is almost always intended to be a "temporary" solution.
If screws are an option -- I much prefer the use of "Wall Dog" anchor screws (or other anchoring alternative), and eyelet-zip-ties or J-hooks, for securing cables to the wall.
If screws are not an option, you might consider the 3m command strips with zip-ties.


How to Deactivate Baseboard Heaters on Active Circuit

There doesn't appear to be an electrical junction box in there so no, it's not safe. You will need to add junction boxes and use appropriate connectors for the cables into the boxes and then cover with cover plates. The boxes will have to remain accessible.

Or You can work backwards from here and find the connection points for these cables and disconnect the ones not being used. Hopefully the bathroom is the first heater on the circuit and at that point, you can disconnect the rest of the wires. If not, then you'll need to add junction boxes like above.


Yes your method would be sound. Controlling the hot is normal.


Can I put my air conditioner on a light switch?

Assuming you're plugging this unit into a standard wall outlet, then just replace the outlet itself with a switched outlet.  Better yet,  get yourself the infamous "clap on - clap off" controller and you can control it w/o even raising your head off the pillow :-)

But, as Levi warns,  air conditioners, to be precise, their compressors, do not like rapid on/off cycling.  If you're going to use an external switch, be sure not to turn it on within maybe 10 minutes of turning it off.


Is it a bad idea to shower with the bathroom door open?

I keep the bathroom door shut and the fan on while showering. I don't want water vapor to migrate back through the bathroom HVAC vent. On leaving I leave the fan on and shut the bathroom door, but come back a short while later, turn off fan and leave door open. My bathroom has not deteriorated in 38 years of my use, during which time it was renovated once.


standalone pump options for leaky below-grade room

First off, your friend should definitely talk to his landlord about the flooding. Even if the landlord won't address it, it's possible your friend could be held liable for water damage from the flooding if he doesn't notify the landlord.

There are two big differences between the pump you need here and a normal sump pump. The first is that it won't be run submerged; most sump pumps (and many other kinds of pumps) need to be run submerged to prevent overheating. Second is that it needs to be able to suck up very shallow water, which generally means it needs to be self priming as well as needing a specially designed inlet and float valve.

Pumps designed for that kind of task are typically called a "puddle pump".


How to replace a CFL recessed light with LED fixture

No, you can't do that. The blue and red wires you see in the existing fixture come from the ballast for the CFL bulb. It's not  the regular 120V. You'll need to remove the old fixture to get to the 120 Volts you need and install a new fixture.


BRHANS is absolutely right. Use a multi-meter to check for actual "voltage". 24 volts A/C is the minimum voltage you should have. You said you have two systems. By chance do you have a zone control board for any other zones?? sometimes they have their own transformer and a separate control wiring. If you do NOT have a zone control board, get a multi-meter that can do LOW A/C voltage and verify the voltage. Check voltage at "R" to "C". with power ON you should have 24v A/C. If you still have voltage with the system off, you will have to check power at the HVAC equipment. I'm not sure the age of your furnace/ air handler, but some of the older equipment has a separate Transformer that runs the low voltage side only. This may have a separate power source as well. ( not very common) but I have seen this situation in the past.
 Hope this helps. and good luck to you.


How do I safely place an extension ladder near windows so I can clean my gutters?

Leaning the ladder against the gutter

If the gutters are safe to lean on, and if there are no potential problems with denting them, then that is the way to do it.

The ladder will be stable and you will be in a better position for cleaning the gutters than if you were on a ladder leaning on the walls.

Some gutters are actually strong enough that you can lean a ladder against them without any issues; not even a risk of aesthetic dents. I talked to a guy who hand crafted and installed gutters and he said that for some buildings they install extra strong gutters because they know that ladders will be leaned against them or they know that kids will be hanging in them.

Don't lean the stabilizer on the side of the gutter since that involves a risk of the stabilizer arms suddenly slipping below or above the gutter. Instead, do not use the stabilizer or if using the stabilizer place it above the gutter so that the ladder itself is leaning on the gutter.

Leaning a two arm stabiliser against the window area, not a good idea in your case

The stabilizers that I know of all have two "arms". Even if you place the ladder correctly and the spacing between the arms will rest against the framing, then that is not really good enough in my opinion. There is a risk that something gives in and the top of the ladder moves a bit to the side, in which case one of the arms will suddenly lean against the glass.

Leaning a stabilizer against the roof

From googling it seems that many ladder stabilizers are built to be used like that as well.

Avoiding using a ladder

This is what I would do if I had a house like that. You can get remote controlled gutter cleaning robots, eg iRobot Looj or you can get accessories for a power washer that lets you clean the gutters while standing on the ground eg Gutter Ball.


What are my options for running cable from surface-mount sub-panel in garage?

I'm amending this answer to correct a misconception.

There is nothing wrong with this installation

I realize there's a trend these days in society where people want to destroy or conceal all utility space.  As if they're shameful or something.  Fine, then, go be Amish. For the rest of us... utilities are a miracle.

Surface mount is particularly correct for a garage, because stuff in garages changes - that's precisely why you got such a large panel and surface mounted it in the first place.  Since the garage is utility space, burying the panel in a wall is just dumb.

The problem, really, is the Code requirements to physically protect wire/cable from damage.  And this is where you've "split the switch".  You adopted the surface mount/accessible/maintainable philosophy which is correct, except you are still "married to" concealed wiring methods (NM/Romex) which rely on the walls for physical protection.

The pro way to proceed from here is multiple conduits. (Because of the "4 circuits per conduit" rule). Normally I'd run 1/2" or 3/4" conduit, but this is where that NM/Romex wiring method gets in the way.  Cable takes a lot of room in conduit, because it's treated as a single wire of the widest dimension (since it twists).  So NM-B cable is 0.40" wide as far as conduit fill is concerned, and that requires fat conduit.

Keep splitting the switch: run a hybrid THHN/Romex setup

One very elegant answer is to run several smallish conduit (1/2" or 3/4") to locations of your choosing, and proceed from those locations with normal Romex/NM. The box becomes like a "mini panel" - you don't have to reach the panel with the Romex, only one of these boxes.

Inside the pipe, use wires made for pipe - THHN individual wires.  This is a fantastic way to work, as the individual stranded wires are flexible and supple, not the gator-wrestling of working with Romex (can you imagine trying to thread Romex through a hole in a stud!?  Ha ha, who would put up with that?)  You do have to "do the pipe-fitting" to get the conduit up there in the first place, but the wiring is easy street.

And from a novice's perspective, it's easy to fit the pipe, check it out, shoot photos/have it inspected, revisit if needed, and have the physical installation be perfect.  Then add the wires, which is straightforward work.

A 1/2" conduit can fit 4 common circuits (that's the max anyway due to thermal limits) and 3/4" can fit big stuff (and other circuits too).  Metal conduit also serves as the ground "wire" so no need for wires proper.

EMT metal conduit is also a great way to deal with outlets or devices that are "right next to the panel" e.g. on the same piece of plywood.  A short EMT nipple, steel junction box, two THHN wires and you're done!

On certain upgrade-friendly runs, run conduit/THHN all the way

Especially if you wind up walling the wiring off behind drywall.

You would do this where you might have a variety of shop tools, e.g. a saw that you might upgrade to a 240V saw someday, or an EVSE (go big on that conduit - Tesla chargers can draw 80A!) Then, upgrading the wires to that location will be a snap.

Working with the Romex

Your method #2 will require a way to guard the NM cable as it exits the panel and goes in to the plywood.

Your method #3 will require special cable clamps that can affix from one side (since you can't access the backside).  My concern is the cable clamp won't work properly unless the hole-behind is larger than the knockout, and how can you accomplish that??? (I imagine 10 minutes of grinding with a Dremel or something).

I think you have the right idea with the conduit.  There's only one snag: You're only allowed 4 circuits in a conduit before a thermal derate becomes necessary.  The thermal derate means bumping one wire size for 5-10 circuits in the same conduit, and two wire sizes for 11-20 circuits.

The cure to this is to run multiple smaller conduits.  NM-B cable in conduit takes a lot of space, though, as it counts as a single wire of the wide dimension.

14-2  NM-B is 0.36" across.  14-3 NM-B is only 0.31" across (it's basically round).
12-2 NM-B is 0.40" across.   12-3 NM-B is 0.37" across (again rounder).

Punch those numbers under "custom" in a conduit fill calculator and it'll tell you what pipe sizes will work. Generally it looks like 1-1/4" is the "univeral donor" and 1" will work with three /3 or #14 (since those are smaller).


If you are using regular, "cheaper", rock salt instead of ones labeled for water softner use, those salts contain a lot of dirt which will produce the same results you are experiencing. Part of the problem could also be from the water itself.


Two ovens on one breaker: NEC says OK, but installation manual wants dedicated circuit

You can normally connect 2 ovens on 1 breaker per the NEC but the manufacturer instructions over ride the NEC per 110.4.B ,
 listed or labeled equipment shall be installed in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.
 This means you have to follow the manufacturers instructions.  I agree with @JReaf that the control cycling of the elements in one oven may damage the controls in the second oven. We see this in industrial plants all the time and put spike suppressors (MOV’s or diodes on relays depends on if ac or dc) control.  But with the mfg instructions stating they need to be on separate breakers a code compliant install requires 2.


Greenhouse (cold frame) side walls - footing question

I went though the same issue. Better to use 1 7/8  galvanized pipe  4 feet long set in concrete (3 80 lb bags each hole) as a sleeve. Then 1 5/8 poles slide into the sleeve and are anchored with tek screws. Make sure your sleeve is 8 inches above ground of course so that you have something to fasten too. If you are useing 1 3/8 then you can find emt that will work as a sleeve as well. I have experienced 50mph winds with no problem on a 14x28 greenhouse 12 feet at the center in height.

As to sono tube... the fasten point at the saddle will be the weakest point of the structure as the horizontal wind load will be significant under high wind gusts. It will hold but I felt better with the set up above as the sleeve encased concrete and tek fastened would require the wall pole inserted into it to fail. At that point the structure would be toast regardless.


Wire a 3 way switch with lights at both ends

The last guy used an illegal and unsafe technique to do that.

Smart switch method

Ground is ground in all cases
Neutral is neutral in all cases
Red is switched-hot in all cases
Black on a branch going to a lamp is always switched hot

Smart switch on box A switches the switched-hot.  This leaves the black wire in the /3 (RBWg) spare.  Smart switch remote in box B controls switch A using that wire as needed.

You need to select the smart switch pair carefully.   Such a smart switch would either use the black as an always-hot and communicate via powerline or radio with the master.   Or be battery or inline powered and use the black as a data cable.

Added wires method(s)

If you can switch to /4, you can have 2 messengers (red/black here), neutral (white), and a switched-hot (blue), and it will look like this.

If you can't get /4 you can just double back with a /2 cable and have the /2 carry switched-hot and its partner neutral for light A.  It could transit through box A, but the hot and neutral would need to be separated from the other wires in the box.  That is because in any cable, currents must  be equal (cancel each other out).


How can this older-style irrigation tee be replaced?

User Matthew is correct that a nipple extractor may help you salvage the tee.

You need to check the threads in the Tee for any damage, since if the threads are scratched you may get a leak.

If the tee is badly damaged

If the tee can’t be reused, you will need to replace it.  This part is readily available at any home-improvement store (but see below).

It’s good that you can remove the pipe clamps if needed, but the Tee fits into the end of the hose with a very tight pressed fit.   You may need a “vise-grip” style clamping wrench to get a good enough grip on the fitting.

You may have to cut the black polyethylene hose to get the tee out. In this case you may even need a straight coupler to repair the black hose.

Here is a cheap one for less than a dollar:

This is a relatively fancy one, but even this only costs $1.28:

A word to the wise

Based on personal experience, I have found that big box home improvement stores sell a grade of sprinkler PVC fittings that is not the same as what the professionals use.

For example, the replacement nipple sold at a big box store will cost about 69¢ and be made of a very lightweight grade of poly propylene (PP).

The types of tee, also, used by professionals are much heavier weight and durable. It’s well worth buying a $1.50 tee from a professional plumbing or professional landscaping supply house, rather than the $1.00 tee sold at the big “orange and blue” stores.

When you consider your time, and the damage from having to tear up your grass and dig the hole again when the cheap part inevitably breaks again, it’s no contest.

If you don’t know a local sprinkler store, you can mail order from specialty stores online. You’ll be glad you did.

Don’t use a nipple

These days, a professional sprinkler company/irrigation contractor would not use a “nipple” to replace this fitting, even though you currently have them in the ground in your system.

As you can imagine, any exposed sprinkler head that can get stepped on, run over by a lawnmower, or run over by a car tire if it is next to the driveway, can cause the head to break the nipple off.

Beware this piece of junk: it costs only 59¢ but when it breaks next year, it will cost you another afternoon of your time to replace it.

The correct replacement is to use a flexible riser pipe, or “swing joint”, known in the trade as a “funny pipe.”.  Funny pipe is flexible and will protect the fitting from future damage so you don’t have to replace it again.

Any new installation of sprinklers should typically use funny pipe.


What is the easiest method to clean a bathroom floor that doesn't have a drain?

Since there is no drain and you want to take the lazy way out, I'd suggest using a steam mop similar to the one pictured bellow. We picked up one of these a couple of weeks ago and are blown away by how well it cleans.

You just need to add water to the reservoir and then set the desired temperature, wait 30 seconds and you're set; barely any scrubbing required. Let the heat from the steam do the work.

As for water that you need to soak up after a bath or shower, a good old fashioned bath mat will do just fine.

Google Images of a steam mop

http://tsq.sewing.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/Bissell-Select-Steam-Mop-94E9T-Head-Height.jpg


How do I repair a broken polystyrene part?

Forget trying to glue it, repair it some other way. "McGyver" it.
Like maybe buy a lock hasp of appropriate size and use the staple, which is the piece that the lock shackle would go through (see picture). Sorry I could not find a picture of just the staple.
Screw the staple to the speaker body and the staple hole would rest in the base, aligned with the hole in the base. Use a nut and bolt to secure it, with washers and bushings to take up any slack. paint it black to match and only you will know it is there.
Or find some other alternative way to rig it, as glue is likely to disappoint you.


Water pressure problem - plumber tapped into kitchen hot/cold water line to add bathroom sink on other side of wall

The most common reason this happens is not anything to do with the plumbing work done, but rather when old shutoff valves are closed and reopened the rubber washers crumble and clog the screens in the faucets. Have your contractor take apart the kitchen faucet and check the screens for debris. There is usually ones under the sink before the cartridge depending on the design


The fact that you're on different floors is mostly irrelevant. It's often the case that different rooms are on different branch circuits even on the same floor.

This type of system relies on simple continuity of two or more of the three legs (hot, neutral, ground). In a properly wired system they should work, but you'll have to try to know for sure.


Sizing DHW expansion tank for tankless heater

The volume of water that is being heated by the on-demand heater is very small, so the smallest commonly available expansion tank will work just fine.  Just make sure that you are getting an expansion tank for potable water, not the one made for hydronic heating systems.


In general, the codes require fasteners to be of hot-dipped, zinc-coated galvanized steel in accordance with ASTM A153, type 304 or 316 stainless steel, silicon bronze or copper.  [source]

FWIW, everything you ever wanted to know about pressure treated wood here.


Bermuda grass is invading my Kentucky Blue? Any solutions that don't involve Roundup?

I've heard of using asphalt shingles as a barrier between grass and flower beds (just dig a trench and bury a line of shingles, may not be pretty but it's effective) and that should stop any more grass from spreading but as for the existing grass you may be forced to either use RoundUp or chop it out and re-seed. I'm not sure of any chemical or other control method that targets Bermuda grass specifically.


TV Mount fixtures on hollow wall with plywood

18mm (3/4") plywood is certainly adequate using proper screws. #14 (7mm or so) wood-thread screws with a proper pilot would hold just fine. Otherwise just use togglers.


Why are some of my string of LED lights dimmer than the rest?

With the help from Peter Duniho I tried reversing the strands and found that the problem persisted. My dad then suggested I put the defective strand in the boiler room to dry it out in case water had gotten in the circuit.
I left the strand for 30 hours and tried it again and it worked!
When I hung the chain again I could see water in two of the bulbs.
Many thanks to the people that provided helpful suggestions!


How can I repair a leak in a PVC water line without bringing down the system for an extended period of time?

I would use Oatey “hot” glue it sets faster than regular but cost a bit more , only get a small can as it evaporates faster also. You can see the label most standard solvents require an hour or longer depending on the diameter , but hot glue is ready in as short as 10 minutes. Primers also help but hot glue doesn’t need primer or the orange stuff I use doesn’t. Also the air temp and working pressure make a difference, colder takes longer to set.

Added: most of the systems I have worked on are less than 80 psi I checked the lava glue I use (Oatey orange lava)  the sheet said 2 minutes assembly and cure but truthfully I think it is more like 15 seconds.  I have pressurized within 10 minutes , the chart shows an hour but that is for pipe up to 1-1/4” at up to 180 psi.
I have done many repairs on 1” and below with just hot glue and had the water back on within 10-15 minutes of the last joint with out failure. I always tighten the lid and store on the lid the cab tends to seal that way but I usually have a brand new can available also.


Wiring smokes in series: one smoke beeps a lot

A loose/disconnected neutral will cause a hardwired smoke alarm to go off.


Accounting for warp while welding precise corner joints

Most work I've seen like this where it needs to be precise employs 2 techniques.

The first of which is a welding Jig, complete with braces, clamps and the like to forcefully hold everything in position. Most of the time this uses a large, heavy welding tables with holes and slots to bolt the braces and jig too. C-Clamps and whatnot are helpful as well.

Additionally, it's not uncommon even after a well produced weld, to check for true and use a torch and tools to relieve the stress, while tweaking the alignment.

TL:DR - Keep it from warping in the first place, but if/when it warps, heat to adjust and de-stress as needed.

Also, it does look like you're welding a bit hot in places. Practice, practice, practice. There's nothing wrong with grinding out your weld, and starting over, or using a REALLY big wrench/hammer/pliers to straighten it out.


Need help identifying sillcock valve manufacturer / model

I was told that this is an old B.K., made in China and no longer manufactured, available until about a couple years ago (this would be around 2012-2013)


Bathroom Sink Tailpipe and P Trap do not line up horizontally

The usual fix for this would be to extend the part of the pipe from the wall at the back of the cabinet out the amount needed to match up for the new sink drain location. In some instances there is a larger diameter pipe in the wall that the rear piece slides into and is secured with a compression washer and a clamp nut. The horizontal slide joint makes it much easier to adjust the P-trap joint.

In your situation due to the glued connections at the wall it can be more work to resolve this issue. Especially since it does not appear that there is much allowance to just cut and glue in new fittings. You will likely need to cut off the existing P-trap elbow from the rear wall extension. There is a small space just behind the elbow where this cut can be made. What you would be cutting there is a short piece of the pipe that is about 2 1/4 inches long that was glued in to join the P-trap elbow and the next fitting that extends out of the wall.

Once the elbow is cut off the next step is to hopefully be able to remove the remaining stub of pipe that is glued into the fitting from the wall. There are specialty rotary cutter tools that are made for carving out pipe stubs in existing fittings so that a new pipe extension can be glued in its place. This is one example of such a tool that is powered by an heavy duty electric drill (often one sized as a 1/2" drill).

(Picture Source: https://www.homedepot.com/p/JSC-2-in-Socket-Saver-J44200/302575481?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-302575482-_-302575481-_-N)

The other ugly alternative that you have in a situation like this is to cut into the drywall to open up the wall enough so that you can access the drain pipe where it is possible to cut where you can then use a coupler fitting and new pipe and fittings that are measured out to meet the new sink location. Subsequent repair of the drywall makes a much larger project of the repair such that the cost of trying the tool shown above is a very tidy alternative.


Here in El NEC country, we like to see 2 grounding rods at least 2.5m long. They should be at least 2m apart, but the farther the better, ideally opposite corners of the building.  Their job is to protect you from voltage gradients caused by lightning.

Those grounding rods are connected to the grounding/earthing bus, which is kept separate from the neutral bus.

In addition, we tie neutral to earth at exactly one place: the first point past the electric meter/service beginning.  Beyond that point, neutral and earth/ground are kept rigidly separate and never connected.  That means for instance, if we have a subpanel (a second panel fed by the first), we run separate neutral and earth/ground wires and keep separate neutral and earth bus bars also.

This separation is especially important downstream of an RCD/GFCI.

It isn't our thing to put an RCD on an entire board or facility, that's Europe's thing.  We put RCDs on individual branches, and they are sensitive 6 ma RCDs which assure trip before a person can possibly be injured.  You probably can't use one that sensitive on an entire panelboard, you will get a lot of nuisance trips if you try.  The European method uses a 30ma RCD.


How do I keep water from getting under the garage door?

@ArchonOSX's answer is good, as long as the local drainage is good enough. If not, I'd install a trench drain that extends further down the slope to where it can discharge back onto the sidewalk, but that depends on the situation.

I'm guessing the door is 8' wide, and the sidewalk falls 5" across it, which means the sidewalk has about 1/2" per foot pitch.

Let's say you install a level trench in front of the door, starting 1" below the door and with a depth of 4" (with a grate on top). At the downhill end of the door the trench bottom will be 4" below the sidewalk.

Then you have to get rid of the water. Drains should have 1/8" per foot pitch, so the sidewalk will fall 3/8" per foot faster than the drain. So, it will take another 11 feet before the sidewalk is below the bottom of the drain. If you have that kind of space you can just extend the trench to that point and then turn it back to the sidewalk.

If not, improvise.


Can a 220V AC to 12V DC adapter be plugged into 120V mains?

It would not be a good idea to try to plug it into 120V.

Internally, that adapter is likely to have one of 2 options.

Option 1: A simple transformer/rectifier/capaitor arrangement.
In this case, since the transformer windings ratio is fixed, you should expect to get about 6.5V out (12/220*120).
Although supplying a low voltage to your motor isn't likely to do much (if any) damage, it certainly won't perform as you'd like it to.
It will probably also be much easier to stall - which could lead to some damage to the motor and/or adapter.

Option 2: A switch-mode power supply.
In this case, the incoming mains AC is rectified & smoothed to high(ish)-voltage DC and this DC is then 'switched' through a much smaller transformer at a much higher frequency than the 50/60Hz mains (typically many 10s of kHz).
These circuits can be designed to operate from a very wide range of input voltages, but this is not always the case as it would likely increase the cost & complexity of the circuit.
If your adapter was designed for a wide input range if would probably be marked as such.

The fact that your adapter's specs include a 'VA' rating lead me to strongly suspect that its an 'Option 1', since transformers are rated in VA.

You should be able to source a suitable replacement locally. The specs you should be most concerned with are the output voltage (12V) and current (no less than 850mA - more is ok).


Toxins from fungi can definitely become airborne. When removing them, since you have a lot of items, use a N95 respirator just to play it safe. Place items in a large plastic bag and seal the bag before placing it in  your car. As a common courtesy, let the people at the recycling facility know about the fungi.


Unshielded twisted pair will perform fine along side 120V 60Hz wiring.  Don't bother with shielded, it won't pull as easily and is more expensive and isn't needed for you.  Twisted Pair will not have problems because of differential signaling.  Plus you're only talking about 70-80 foot run,  you could still run CAT 5e and get Gigabit.  I'd be surprised if you see a single error on the interface.  Modern Ethernet is amazingly resilient.  This isn't like Thinnet, tokenring, or old coax days.

I'm not saying its to code, but you don't need to worry about EMI at least.

UTP Cabling and the Effects of EMI


size of screw, wall plug and drill bit for shelf upright with 7mm hole

I'd try my best to screw those into studs with the largest screw that will sit flush in the countersink.

If you can't line it up with studs, get the largest anchor that will fit the countersink.

Something like: https://www.renodepot.com/en/hollow-wall-anchors-0484236 and NOT the plastic ones. This anchor will bend out in 4 directions behind the wall board and will distribute the weight on a larger surface area.

Of course, the one I linked does not have a countersunk screw so you'll want to pick some up as well unless you don't mind the head sticking out a little.

Again, the best would be to screw these directly to a stud.


Help! Condensate pump is so loud and working when minisplit is off

I can see the pump turning on a couple of times after being in cooling mode but it should not have a lot of water to pump once the unit warms up.
if the pump is pushing water I would be concerned about the amount of ice in the head.
Is the filter being cleaned low air flow can cause icing.
Don’t run the ac when the outside temps are below 65F this can cause icing.
If there is ice on the evaporator coil it may take several hours to melt and your pump is doing it’s job.
I would be concerned about that much ice, floats usually stick closed and won’t turn off or fail to close and turn the pump on.
I have not seen a float cycle unless it has to lift the water and then a long horizontal run. What happens in some cases the water is syphoned back into the pump.
A simple check valve close to the pump is needed in this case this theory is easy to check by watching the water level in the pump tray.


Since there is not a metal box up there, yes, just connect the ground wire from your new light fixture to the ground wire coming in with the feed wires. Use the appropriate wire connector.


How about a bar that fastens to the door frame? See below. Two knobs screw into the door frame and the adjustable bar fits over them.

https://www.wish.com/product/55f7ec5f74135f27949f81f3?from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=US&_force_currency_code=USD&pid=googleadwords_int&c=%7BcampaignId%7D&ad_cid=55f7ec5f74135f27949f81f3&ad_cc=US&ad_curr=USD&ad_price=13.00&campaign_id=7203534630&gclid=CjwKCAjw95D0BRBFEiwAcO1KDHImYeLqPzXFHZlrqodUTA905VhaDoh9enymz1sFbED6Ia14VsjuPRoCv-MQAvD_BwE&hide_login_modal=true&share=web

Or just get two 1" pipe flanges and the appropriate length of threaded 1" pipe. Screw the flanges on to each end of the pipe and screw them into the door frame.


You have an electrical connection to the Furnace - even if it is gas. Blower motors and control circuits require electricity; should you have a short - you will need the overload protection to prevent a fire that only a pyromaniac could enjoy.

The fuse is most likely of a lower amperage than your Circuit Breaker - it guarantees the safety of the furnace - regardless of your Circuit Breaker.

Think on this Why do Microwave Ovens have Fuses in them or other appliances such as TV's have fuses in them when we have these wonderful circuit breakers installed?

In Summary: The consuming unit may not trip the breaker, and if not a fire could easily erupt first before that breaker ever went into overload.


Do breaker trip curves ever begin BEFORE the load printed on the breaker handle?

First, I don't know about those charts.  (actually I do know; I browsed them on Friday as part of other research; but you need to look at context and notice they are and NOT for breakers in your home.)

The only trip curve that matters to you is the one published in the catalog for the breakers that are in your own panel.

It's possible to get breakers with trip curves like that, but they don't fit your HOMeline panel lol, and they don't cost 5 dollars!   They do, however, let you deep-dive into the arcane subject of breaker selective coordination, i.e. the fine art of reliably and reproducibly having the local breaker at the hydraulic press trip before the feed breaker back at the main panel 3 floors down.

  For instance, if I put exactly 20 amps of electric heat on a 20 amp breaker, using conduit and all quality components, should I expect that to trip at some point, or not?

They don't guarantee it won't.  In fact, since the thermal trip mechanism will be in play, it will matter greatly whether the Arizona sun is blasting on your outdoor panel vs whether it's buried in a snowdrift.

  19 amps I would expect to trip never. 21 amps I would expect to trip 'eventually'. 10000 amps (dead short) should trip more or less instantly. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I wouldn't expect that kind of precision for $5.

  Do branch circuit breakers work the same as mains in this regard?

My view is that, if anything, main breakers are more tolerant (to the vexation of anyone trying to use a main-breaker subpanel as a disconnect with hopes that the local breaker trips first)... However, they are cut from the same basic stock.  In fact, when a "main breaker" is actually a backfed breaker, they are the same basic stock.


Why doesn't new dimmer switch brighten completely?

Many new dimmers are designed to “save energy” by limiting the full brightness to 80 or 90% of actual full brightness. Some of them have a hidden slider to adjust the top end. You’ll have to either shop for a different dimmer or put up with it.


This is a telephone jack. If you measure 48v DC or so between wires then it is live, even if you don't currently have phone service. Ideally - live or not - you should try and find the other end of the wires and disconnect it if you aren't going to use it. That could be another jack elsewhere in the building or a patch panel or terminal block - typically on a wall in the basement or on an outside wall.

It is generally safe to remove this (i.e., cut off what you can see and cover it up) if it is not live, but that could confuse someone later on who finds the other end and is trying to install phones and can't figure out where a cable ends.

It is not safe to remove this if it is live (e.g., 48v DC) because (a) if the wires short it will affect any equipment that is connected to the same phone line and (b) even low voltage/low current could potentially be a fire hazard. That is extremely low risk if outside the wall, even if not quite connected correctly (as is the case currently) but hidden inside a wall that would not be a good thing. The risk is low - if you really want to disconnect it and you can't find the other end, taping (electrical tape) the end of the cable to protect it is advisable.


This is EIFS- Exterior Insulating Finish System. A little info on it here.

You won't need a GC to do this, it is a small repair. There are EIFS installers you can call. They will tell you it will not repair easily. It will not touch up, they will need to recreate or overlay the whole "block" so to speak. It may be better to peel off the original and start from scratch, so it does not get bigger than the others. I do not know if this can be custom colored, if need be. In todays market, with enough money behind it, anything can be customized, you may still need to live with a little difference in color.


Does a roof with 3 layers of asphalt shingles somehow last longer?

No. Layers of shingles on top of each other shorten the life of the roof due to the newest layer sitting on an uneven lower surfaces.

The best life will come from removing all the old layers down to roof boards or sheathing and then laying down the new roof on a well repaired flat surface.

Multiple layers of shingles happen because folks want to avoid extra removal work or to save the cost of removal labor and disposal costs. There is basically no truth to claims of benefits of stacking shingle layers.


Flow sensor adjustment for Navien 240S natural gas fired tankless water heater

This is a common complaint for these types of water heaters.

Unfortunately, you have a model that seems to be slow to respond to water flow. I don't think any company has a way to adjust the flow sensor on their on-demand water heaters. This is not a customer adjustable function of these style of heaters.

If you're dissatisfied with this product I would suggest searching for a company/product that has positive reviews from people for the product's low-flow response rate. Some products respond even respond well to just running a hot water valve at a trickle.

Good luck!


How do I fix a heavily rusted garburator?

Replace the thing. New ones are not excessively expensive.

Attempts at repair are likely to be a futile exercise. The reason is that old disposers often corrode right through the lower portion of the casing and there really is no good way to repair that.


How do I find out if Air Admittance Valves (AAVs) are allowed in my municipality?

Your municipality's Building Department will be really helpful for this sort of thing.  At least in the USA, some cities are small enough that they do not have their own building department but may use the counties instead.  Either way, they will know what codes apply for your property and can get you the correct answer.

Ask to speak to one of the residential building inspectors. Simply calling on the phone is probably enough, though they may have certain rules about when an AAV can and cannot be used and talking to them in person may make it easier for you to explain your situation (a picture can be a thousand words).

They will want you to get a permit.  This is not a bad idea and in my City it is pretty cheap if you are the homeowner and doing the work yourself.  If you really do not want to get a permit you can still ask them about it since you are simply in the planning stages now and tell them you will pull the permit once you actually start working on your project.


How should I tidy up loose speaker wires?

My first concern here is safety and code compliance.  Ordinary speaker wire is not in-wall-rated.

You need to use CL2 or better, CMR rated cable for in wall use..

CL2R is short for Class 2 Riser  Site detailing low voltage cable options

  Link to speaker wire

As far as neatness goes, installing a termination panel or a "brush" wall plate would help

Decora style insert which would mount to a low voltage old work ring


Not quite:  You have 2 30 amp breakers at 240v, which means 60 amps at 240v and 120 amps at 120. It's an usual configuration, probably for some specific purpose in the past.  Are you sure there isn't another panel that feeds lighting and other 120v outlets?
Regarding 24 amps, vs 30, you are talking about derating for continuous loads (like lighting and heating).  I DK if your equipment is considered a continuous load or not...something for you to investigate. If in doubt, do the derating to be safe.
EDIT: adding to my answer based on @manassehkatx comment...you'll need to get some 15 or 20 amp breakers to run "convenience circuits" from this panel.   You can't turn a 30 amp 240 v circuit into a MWBC.
Lastly your comment about getting a piece of equipment that requires "1750 Watt 30 amp 240 volts" doesn't make a lot of sense to me, perhaps a typo?  Even a derated 30 amp 240v circuit could handle up to 5,760 watts (30 x 240 x 80% = 5,760) so, I'm not sure what the manufacturer is up about.


Wiring for outdoor GFCI receptacle in my garden

Wrong conduit for the job

First off, you are looking at the wrong kind of conduit for this task.  NEC 348.12 point 6 prohibits the use of FMC underground:

  (6) Underground or embedded in poured concrete or aggregate

Given your desired trench depth, you want to use rigid metal conduit (RMC) instead, as even liquidtight flexible metal conduit (LFMC), which can be buried, requires 18" of topcover.

You don't need wires that fat, either

Second, your 8AWG wires are quite a bit too large; for a general-use receptacle at a mere 85' distance, 12AWG will suffice.  (Rule of thumb: if the one-way length of the circuit is longer than the nominal voltage, then you start need to worrying about voltage drop.)

Other tip: put the GFCI at the house

Another tip here is to put the GFCI inside, at the house, where it is better sheltered from the weather.  While a good weatherproof box and while-in-use cover will do their darnest to keep rain out, they're still not as good as the roof of your house at it.  Also, don't forget to fit the bottom of your receptacle box with a weep hole (1/8" is fine) to both let water out and keep air pressure inside even.


Finishing an attic, building codes, layout possibilities

You say you don’t like answers that start with, “...the Code says...”, but I say, the Code says, “Habitable rooms, hallways and basements containing habitable spaces shall have a ceiling height of 7’ min. (ICC R305)

Also, it says, “ For rooms with sloped ceilings, the required floor area of the room shall have a ceiling height of not less than 5’ and not less than 50% shall have a ceiling height of 7’.”

It also says, “Conversion of basements and attics to habitable space shall provide a minimum height of 6’-8”.”

I’d quit arguing with people and go see your local Building Official and get a copy of Section 305 AND read it yourself. Talk to him/her. They’re there to help. (You’re getting a Building Permit, right?)

Maybe you can furr out the side walls to 5’ and make a great “habitable room” with bookcases, shelving, etc. along the walls. (Bathrooms, etc. is 6’-8” and showers are 6’ minimum height.)


Can I replace 1 switch of a 3-switch box with a Motion Detector switch

A three way switch is a single pole double throw switch and will not work with a single pole single throw switch like a motion sensor switch. A three way switch has two switch legs and one common lead. You could wire the motion sensor in series with one of the commons of either switch and the light would stay off when no motion was sensed. Once motion was sensed the three way switched would work normally.


Suspend a heavy rolled-up quilt (get it from a flea market or discount re-seller) above the door. When you are inside, unfurl the quilt so it covers the entire door and frame. probably your best option for the money you are willing to spend.


If an overflow gasket does not fit, can it be rotated?

I would replace the rubber gasket you have with a more pliable foam-rubber replacement (commonly available at plumbing shops). This should allow you to place the gasket in the normal position (thick at bottom) but to give it a squeeze to effect a seal all the way around.

In the end, it is the seal at the bottom that is most important. Why? Because any water that gets to the overflow under normal circumstances is just incidental splashing and not likely to cause a huge problem. In the worst case (actual high water level, the reason for the overflow port), large amounts of water will be flowing through the bottom part of the hole. Any gap there will result in floor/wall/home flooding and damage.


Front door weather sealing - tapered gaskets for twisted jamb

Why spend more time trying to cover it up than it would take to fix it?

The door needs re-hung (should be low/no cost). If you are unwilling to re-hang the door, I've had good success with using large foam weatherstripping that is cut to what I needed.

Big box stores carry the foam weatherstripping in a coil such as this in varying thicknesses.


Installing a dishwasher where there is no preexisting one

Depending on what's behind that cover plate, you will probably be able to run some NB cable, if it' allowed, from there down the inside of the wall to a new junction box for the washer. If conduit is required, you'll have to cut away the wall below the counter to install your conduit.
You cannot just change a 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker without replacing the 14 AWG wire with 12AWG wire. If instructions call for a 20 amp circuit, then you'll have to run new wire. You'll have to check to see if GFCI protection is required.
Since your basement is finished, you could use conduit or some of the decorative wire channel to run the wire on the surface of your finished wall.  See picture below from Lowes.


Guessing that the luan subflooring is only 1/4" thick I would strongly suggest that you remove it. Since the existing carpet squares are glued down to it I suspect it would be way more work trying to remove all the glue and prep its surface to a suitable condition for the laminate flooring.

If you tried to leave the luan subflooring any type of transition that you attempted to use would most likely be noticable to some people to say the least. In addition the transion zone would place stress on the snap together joints of the flooring causing them to not stay nicely closed.

I am not a big fan of laminate flooring in the first place but suggest that it wants to be laid down on a surface that is flat and continuous.


Need a new roof but have2 gable ends and no overhang for soffit vents

When I asked the roof contractor about soffit/ridge venting for my 1890's house, his opinion was that my gable vents were perfectly adequate. Since the switch-over would have generated additional income for him, I'm inclined to believe him.


Can you put a whole house fan in an attic if you live in it?

I love whole house fans , have now installed them in 4 houses and 2 garages. As noted they can only reduce temperature to the outside temperature. But that works well with a night temperature below 70F and a day temp above 80F , running an hour or so in the morning. Ideally you need to install it in a gable for your situation. You may want an insulating foam panel to put over the louvers when the fan is not on as louvers leak air. I recommend a belt drive as the direct drive turn the fan faster making significantly more noise. As noted , windows need to be opened to let air in,; window adjustment also lets you focus the cooling.


How do I remove these closet sliding doors

Sliding closet doors that are mounted to rollers and suspended from a track are meant to be removed by pushing the door bottom into the closet space while lifting the rollers from the track. Be sure that the floor guide (if any) has been removed first.
If there are two doors (one in front and the other behind) you will need to remove the rearward door first and than the front one.


Can I lay turf on sand? Yes.

It is better to put an organic fertiliser such as fowl manure, mushroom compost or Dynamic Lifter down first before laying the turf.

This is best incorporated into the soil to a depth of 2-4″ (50-100mm) and will help to hold the moisture for the turf.

The above has been taken form the following source:
Lawn Care Tips and Advice - Atlas Turf


Why doesn't my Touch N Go garage door opener lift the door?

In case anyone else wants to know:  I went and bought a 330 Volt 54-63 uf capacitor   and installed it.  Not only did I not electrocute myself, I fixed it.

It cost me < $7 - not too bad.


If I fit a water softener, will I run out of on-demand water via bath/shower-use?

As Evil said impossible to tell you from the info you have provided, but if you look at the specs of the Twintec S3 it runs at 65l/m max flow rate and uses 17L per regeneration cycle ( eg wasted water)


Brand of kitchen sink with crown logo and CSA stamp

OK, turns out a little bit more research never hurts. It was a Kindred sink: https://www.kindred-sinkware.com/ca/en.html


Installing an exhaust fan in place of a light fixture

The choice is yours to make based on how much control you want.

Do you need to control the lights separately from the fan?

(do you mind if the fan comes on every time the lights come on?)

If no:

Just wire all the black wires to your existing black wire, the whites to white, and the ground to green and you are done!

If yes:

You'll need to run another wire.

If you decide you need to run another wire you need to ask your self

Do you need to control the lights independently from one another?

If yes:

Then you'll need to run 14/4 wire and 2 more switches. (instructions below)

If no:

Then you can use the 14/3 you bought, but will need an extra switch.

Instruction for connecting new wire:

Connect all neutrals in the fan/light box together with the neutral (white) of you newly run wire.
Connect the neutral wire directly to the neutral (white) in your switch box
Connect the green grounding wire to your copper or green wire of your newly run wire.
Connect the green (or copper) grounding wire of your new wire to the grounding wire in your switch box with an added jumper if required for your switch.
Connect each of your switches to your the hot wire in your switch box via jumper wires
Connect each switch then distributes power to one of the remaining colored wires  (and take note of the order)
Connect the other end of the wire to the desired device you want it to control


The only way to know for sure if an upgrade is required, is to do a load calculation on the building.  For this you'll need to know the electrical requirements of all the major electrical equipment (A/C, Heat, hot water, range, dryer, etc), and the square footage of the building.

In my opinion, any home that's all electric, should probably have at least 200 amp service. Obviously this is a generalization, based on the average home in my area.


Need some assistance on replacing a light fixture

First of all make a couple of measurements.

Check the distance between the long screws as you have them set right now and compare to the distance between the key hole slots on the fixture base. They need to be the same.
Measure the depth from the panel that the keyhole slots are in to the top most rim of the fixture base. This distance needs to be a little less than the long screw head protrusion below the ceiling surface. The installation guide says that the protrusion needs to be about 1.2 inches. If screws are too short maybe you pre-installed them into the box holes too far .. or you will have to acquire longer screws.

Make sure to connect the GND wire from the fixture base to the bare wire safety ground wires in the electrical box.

The cross bar installation looks OK but it is not doing much for you.


Mark location of holes with two boards fitted together

If you were energetic, you'd take some bolts that fit the threaded inserts, cut the heads off, put a point on the remaining threaded rod (chuck the rod in a drill and spin it against a running grinder), screw the pointy threaded rod into the inserts and then press your new panel against the points.

You'll have an exact impression of where to drill the new panel.


Of late, the big-box stores have brought in quite a sea of cheap imported crud.  It's not near as bad as the awful imported crud found on the flea markets of eBay and Amazon Marketplace (anything that isn't "sold by: Amazon.com"). Things from Lowes are certified by Nationally Recognized Testing Lab such as UL or ETL... so they won't kill you from toxic smoke or something equally avoidable. That says nothing about quality, and it might just be a bum light.  The surest way to tell is swap the relevant pieces with the next lamp over.
I agree those push connectors are dodgy as a rule.  Whenever you get "free" stuff like that, feel totally empowered to replace it with a quality item you feel comfortable with.
You are correct that the problem could be at light #3 in the chain, and I'd pull those out of the connector and put them on a wire nut.


Is interior fresh air venting suitable for new furnaces?

Many direct vent heaters use a through the wall concentric pipe system where the cool intake air comes in through the larger outter diameter and the hot exhaust leaves via the smaller inner diameter of the two pipes. This allows there to be a compact and safe transition through the wall so that the hot pipe does not represent a fire hazard to the surrounding wall materials.

You should look closely at your installation to make sure that the exhaust exits are piped and vented in a safe manner without risk of high heat leading to fire danger. As you describe your installation the concentric cooling scheme is not being applied.


What sandpaper grit should I use between coats of varnish?

1] Wait. It may take days or weeks for the varnish to harden enough to sand without it "balling up" or being "gummy". This is the most important thing.
2] Test it gently from time to time with 120 or 150 grit until it sands cleanly, no gumminess. Then scuff the whole thing down gently, just knock off the high spots and ridges, avoid breaking through to bare wood.
3] Lay on another coat, try to brush in one direction, "flow" the varnish on and don't worry about small streaks, varnish is "self levelling" if it's not too cold.
4] Follow the same steps using 220 grit. This should be a decent finish.
5] Depending how far you want to go you can work up in stages to 1200 grit and polishing compound, but that's extreme.
6] When brushing varnish, what you did wasn't entirely wrong. Cross brushing then linear brushing to "work" the varnish onto/into the wood is good but you have to do it fast before the varnish starts to "set up".
Good luck and enjoy.


Is there an easy way to replicate this ceiling texture?

That is in fact a "sand finish", your intuition was right.

Now depending on the age of the house it could be sand added to the plaster, added to the mud, or a "sand finish" paint.   The last is your best hope of matching, as you would drywall it all smooth then simply use brushstrokes to recreate the pattern.  There are premixed sand paints amazingly enough.

When I've seen this done with wallboard mud, they have a mixer on site to stir every so often (the sand settles slower than blueberries).  A quick google search reveals a number of pros complaining about how hard sand finishes are to match.  Practice practice practice, on some scrap drywall.

Using a piece you cut off the ceiling for repair, try to figure out what layer the sand was added at (plaster, top coating on drywall, paint).


How can I quiet my dryer vent from the outside?

Absolutely do not block the vent - this could cause a fire!

The first thing to check is that your duct is free of lint and other debris.  If it is a plastic duct then I wouldn't even bother cleaning it and instead would replace it with a metal one. A rigid duct line is probably better than a flexible one but is a bit more difficult to work with.

Check for any unnecessary bends or kinks in the line - the straighter the better as bends restrict the airflow and result in additional noise.  If it is a collapsible/flexible duct, make sure it is fully extended and trim off any excess ducting.

If possible you might consider relocating the exhaust further away from you neighbor.


What kind of service panel to use when the enemy is condensate, not rain?

As requested:
I have used small fire rod heaters in the past where condensation was a problem,
they run off of 120v and are designed for a gun safe.
I don’t know if they make them small enough to fit in a 40 amp panel. the little warmth they generate keeps the panel from condensation issues. I have done this in pool areas and open metal buildings.
The first time I did this I asked the inspector, since then I have been asked what they were and after explaining have always been approved on inspection.


Best book for stage lighting is written by Richard Pilbrow.

https://books.google.com/books?id=WSCVPwAACAAJ&dq=inauthor:%22Richard+Pilbrow%22&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjT75bgrdrYAhUlmeAKHZAaCjEQ6AEIKTAA


Does it make sense to install a fan at an A/C register to draw more airflow on a slow branch?

You could partially or totally shut the vents in rooms that are the correct temp.
This would force higher air flow into your back bathroom.


Is it possible to control 3 light fixtures with 4 switches?

This is possible using standard electrical wiring devices!  You will need (in addition to standard electrician's tools and supplies):

Three three-way switches (switches 2, 3, and 4)
A four-way switch such as a Leviton CSB4-15T or equivalent (linking for the sake of those who have never bumped into one, a good home improvement store should have one kicking around somewhere) -- this will be switch 1
A two gang box for switch 4, with a switch + blank two gang faceplate -- one side of this faceplate has the standard switch slot, the other is blank.
And lots of 14/3 NM-B (in addition to 14/2) because you'll need to run multiple travelers

The wiring diagram is as follows:

Dotted lines are neutrals, the rest of the colors are self-explanatory.  Three things:

You will want to use a two-gang box for Switch 4, as the wire fill (eight wires) is too dense for a single gang.  Perhaps you could stash a wiring diagram in there for the sake of anyone who has to fix it later, too?
Keep your travelers consistent: in the diagram, red is up and black is down, always.
Make sure the documentation for this is kept well, otherwise it will give the next electrician who encounters it a bit of a headache.


How can I permanently seal or cover a crack where a steam pipe enters the ceiling?

Your crack is forming over and over because the steam pipe is getting hot, expanding, and cracking your plaster.

The solution is to cut the plaster back about 1/4" from the walls of the pipe all the way around, then to cover the seam with an escutcheon that hides the crack.

Example of a smaller escutcheon:


Running a wire from an existing interior outlet to a new exterior outlet which is lower than the interior one

You will have to fish wire through... so you need a path. Professionals utilize a variety of specialty tools and special skills to do what you describe.

I would probably remove a KO and probe down the wall with a stiff wire to see if there was an obstruction. if there was, I would tear out the existing interior box, cut open the wall, use a long flexible drill bit to punch a hole, then patch it up.

You can spend a whole bunch of time fretting and trying to find an "easy way", or you can just do it and prepare yourself for the work involved patching it up.


How do motor capacitors change in value with respect to age or environmental factors?

Yes, capacitors such as motor start capacitors can change in capacitance value due to aging and high temperature. The change in capacitance could actually be the cause of the motor no longer being able to start but there are probably additional factors as well. One of these being ESR of the capacitor (mentioned in @KevinReid 's comment) can change (usually increase) which seriously degrades the function of the capacitor. Usually the change of ESR also relates in some way to the net change in capacitance as well.

Other common capacitor failures include:

Breakdown of the insulation layer between the plates in the capacitor can result in a short circuit in the capacitor. Often when the short occurs a lot of current will flow and this can cause internal connections to blow open like a fuse and render the capacitor open circuit. If the capacitor design does not support this internal fusable connection type the excess current can lead to overheading and the capacitor physically exploding or catching fire.
Over temperature operation can cause the seals on a capacitor case to fail which can be catastrophic for certain types of capacitors that have an internal damp nature due to an electrolyte. If this dries out the capacitor can lose most of its capacitance.


Spacing between service panel and RV sub panel (both on same outdoor freestanding plywood/post)

The panel can be mounted directly below there is not a minimum height or spacing for the service panel. There are maximums  6’7”  for the max height of the disconnect. You could have the panel touching the ground (not a good idea).
The only exception to this is if close to a body of water that floods then the panel has to be 24” above the normal high water.
Note I have worked in local areas that have had 18/24” minimum heights for the bottom of service panels outside but this is not in the NEC.
It is best to check but the standard code a minimum is not listed
The 2 boxes could be connected with feed thru bushings or nipples to whatever you want no money max on the separation either.


You will not want to have the legs just individually attached to the corners of the glass. Instead you will want to make a frame as a type of apron board around between the legs to hold things together and to provide lateral bracing for the legs. Without that the leg attachment would tend to be transmitting any lateral forces into the glass which would not be a good or safe thing.

You can build this frame to be fully under the glass top or have the frame surround the glass edge such that the top lays into the frame.

For a frame that you would put under the top this picture shows the construction technique that allows the corner legs to be removable from the frame (bottom view):

The parts in the above picture appear to be just loose fitted or not done carefully enough to get a great fit. When I have made a frame like this I have used a corner block with square edges and notched it into the apron boards like this:

The fastener that you use into the leg is a combination threaded bolt and lag screw like shown below. The lag portion gets screwed into the leg.

For extra strength two of the leg bolts can be used as shown in this picture:


How much damage can a grow-op do to a house in 3 months?

I have experience buying similar houses.  Basically GrowOps have the following issues:

Electrical redone to support lights and equipment
Ventilation rerouted through places where it shouldn't
Plant and smoke smell throughout the house (if they are growing most of the time there are lots of people smoking).
Moisture inside drywall

In your case you are lucky.  Doing a GrowOp in the basement offers access to ventilation and electrical without having to radically change anything.  You can simply add a circuit to breaker or tap into another and pull it once you are done.  Ventilation can go out basement windows/doors.

If I were doing a full inspection the first thing I would do is inspect the area for how they were getting their electric.  I would definitely open the panel to make sure there was no stupid add-ons that weren't done by an electrician.

Next I would be looking for fresh drywall/paint/mud.  If they had to open up walls for ventilation I would be weary that the inside of the walls were OK.  At the same time I would make sure I smelled the house minus candles/scenting.  I would open up the house and then keep it closed for a while and do a smell test.  Getting smoke/pot smell out of drywall can cost a fortune.

Last check the attic.  A lot of pot houses I have inspected vented into the attic.  It doesn't mean you don't buy the house but you need to figure out the damage done in attic and how much it is to fix.

Given your situation I would mainly be concerned about smell.  Check everything else out and simply subtract any issues to already low price of home.

Special Note:  For anyone legally doing this I would offer the following advice (note that this is generic and obviously won't work for all situations):

run new circuits for this usage.  You will probably need a couple of 20A circuits for even a smaller operation.  If you are in a basement this is usually super easy.  Without a basement I would suggest using armored wiring for temporary lines or just opening a couple of walls.  Do not overuse your current circuits.  This could cause a fire or burn out a lot of outlets.  No amount of goods is worth burning down your house.
for ventilation you will need at least one large run or possibly two medium runs with an induction fan for each.  It would be best to pop these right out windows but this may effect neighbors or draw too much attention.  Using flexible venting through attic and directed out gable vent would be a good temporary option.
everything you are growing should be encapsulated in plastic.  If it were my house I would have a tent that housed everything with the ventilation the only permanent opening.  I would then tape plastic sheeting over every surface in the room where it was growing. So tent and every wall is blanketed with plastic sheets.
I would run a dehumidifier outside of the tent.  Possibly one in the tent too but this would depend on readings and condensation I was getting in the tent.
I would have smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms checked and plentiful.


Just as a mention, in traditional wood burning fireplaces, there is to be a 2" air space between the masonry and any wood or combustibles. Anything you add to this fireplace should be metal, unless there is enough space for a 2X flat, so it will lessen the length of the metal framing. This metal framing should be placed horizontally to frame the front down to within 12" of the top of the firebox. The rest must be masonry, stone or tile. The area around the firebox should be "gauged" so the face of the finished "rough" wall that will receive the tile or stone is flat and in plane with the other surfaces that will receive tile or stone. Running the metal framing horizontal is just a simple way to get a flat wall between the two corners. If you have 1 5/8" of room or more to the blockwork, metal studs will work. If you have places that are only 7/8" behind the face of the wood framing, "hat track" will be the framing to use. If you only have 1/2" in places, RC2 channel will work in those cases.

The rough hearth you have now could be formed to have concrete poured around what you have there, using the original as filler. Make sure you have at least 2" of room from the forms to allow the pea gravel mix concrete to get to all the places it needs to. You could remove all of it and use masonry blocks to build a all new base fore the hearth.

DO NOT use wood framing for the hearth on this type of woodburning fireplace!! Metal fireplaces, yes, there is a metal barrier install in the gap for fire resistance. Over time if a gap forms your type of fireplace, and hot coals get down in the gap, bad things could happen.

In your spaces you have around the masonry mass, if there is anything that needs filling to the masonry a fireproof insulation like rock wool or Roxul(r) will do the trick. The space to the outside you refer to in the write up is not visible to me, but between the insulation, siding and caulk usually seals the outside from the elements. I have gone as far as adding flashing in new construction to isolate the ends of the siding from the stone or brick so the siding does not soak up moisture from that material

10-16-2018 EDIT


Is it OK for dishwasher waste to be connected lower than sink trap elbow?

I'm not sure anyone has answered your question yet. It's hard to tell from the picture but I'll defer judgement to the "engineer" on site that the drain line from the dishwasher is somewhat lower than the drain feed out to the sewer line. If that's the case this would cause some of the water (weir) in the trap to back up into the lower part of the dishwasher drain.
To put this in perspective - it's probably not going to cause you major issues. However, since it's under warranty - have them fix it. I'd recommend isherwood's solution above - have them shorten the leg above the dishwasher drain and the corresponding ell going out to the mainline.
The reason I recommend that is based on the picture. The vertical rise from the trap to the horizontal drain piece looks to be border-line long. To explain, here's an illustration of a proper setup:

The height of the weir (area between the red lines) should not be more than 4 inches. Again it's hard to tell but the weir on your trap looks higher than 4 inches which would make it less effective in flushing out debris.
Edit
If the weir height is no more than 4 inches the installers have the option of moving the dishwasher drain up to the higher unused fitting going into the tailpipe on the right or raising the trap as indicated by thye blue lines in the picture. As Harper mentioned in his comment, those pipes may be pre-fab and not adjustable so the installer may have to install new pipes above the trap to get the dishwasher drain line above the outlet pipe on the left.


2 in. PVC Slip x Slip Union thread miss match, metric vs imperial maybe?

The threads at the union nut are not standardized, each manufacturer is likely to have their own thread. In fact, I suspect they deliberately use proprietary threads to force you back to their brand.

It is not at all uncommon for you to have to cut back and couple in an entirely new union.


Multiple outputs from a single outlet box

So, the National Electric Code doesn't say anything about the number of outlets on a breaker, but it does specify the number of wires allowed in a junction box, which seems to be your main question.

Box size

Since you have no drywall, we can assume that you are using "New work" boxes, but you should check their labeled size (in cubic inches - ci) to be sure of what you're working with.  A typical "deep", new-work box is 22ci.  If you are using 12/2 Romex and putting an outlet in the box, the required size is:

6 conductors coming into the box: 6 * 2.25 = 13.5ci
Your outlet counts as 2 conductors: 2 * 2.25 = 4.5ci
The ground wires count as one: 1 * 2.25 = 2.25ci
Required size: 20.25ci

So, you should be fine.  If you're using 14/2 (probably - I went with the worst case for the example), the multiplier is 2ci rather than 2.25ci.

Wiring it together

If you have one pair coming in a box and one going out, using the screws of the outlet isn't a hack, and they even sell nice "backwire" outlets that are made for that.  In the box where you are "splitting off" and you have three pairs, a pigtail to the outlet is probably better than filling all the holes in a backwire outlet.  (Note, the pigtails don't count for the cubic inch calculations)

Also, in your "junction box" all the wires need to be folded nicely and pushed to the back before installing the outlet.  The outlet shouldn't be used to force the wires into the box - you should be able to push the outlet all the way in with no resistance from the bundle in the back.


Will it cause problems to shower without the exhaust fan and only turn it on afterwards?

Condensing water is never good. The vapor will creep in places where it may not quickly evaporate once it has condensed. It will condense easily but dry slowly in cold places and badly ventilated corners (like around the window) and on a cold floor. That means that these places stay moist for longer than one would think. Take a "finger test" in such places an hour after you have finished.

If water vapor condenses between layers like under wallpaper, window paint, between plywood layers or similar, it will start to do progressive damage there, even if it's only present for an hour each day.

Getting the vapor out immediately is much better. It will prevent some of the condensation from happening in the first place, which is much preferable.


How many circuits do I need and can I bundle wires in the wall?

I'd agree with Keshlam, ask the local inspector about that specifically.  It sounds to me like you don't plan on taking out a permit, which I would probably recommend, it gives you peace of mind knowing the job is done right, it's not very expensive, and you can tell the future homeowner when you sell that it was inspected and done to code.

As for circuit design, you said 6 circuits could be a limitation?  Then what I'd think about doing is:

Both bathroom lights on one circuit
Bathroom GFCI Receptacle
Bathroom GFCI Receptacle
Largest and Smallest bedroom Receptacles
Two other bedroom receptacles
All bedroom lights (Assuming they don't exceed 12 fixtures)

You probably won't want to have all the lights from one floor on one circuit, as if that circuit ever trips, you'll be in the dark with no supplementary light to guide you.


HVAC fan turned off by itself with associated burning smell

Your fan was not running and a hot smell points to a thermal overload in your fan motor tripping.
Why would this happen? The lubricant in the motor has dried out and the bearings are getting stiff if a belt drive it could also include the bearings on the fan itself.
Can it be fixed: Usually yes
The fan motor usually has ports over the ends that lead to the bearings. I use 30 weight motor oil but any motor oil will usually help.
Most motors only take about 20 drops of oil if the tube or shaft fills up run the motor for a while and check it later,  if you can get 10-20 Drops in let it run and the problem may go away for a year or longer but adding a few drops every 6 months can extend the motor life by decades.
The reason the motor was not running it overloaded due to lack of lubricant and there is a thermal snap switch in the motor that had not cooled down yet. I have done this little trick hundreds of times and brought motors back to life.
Don’t forget to wash your grids I can’t believe how bad the smoke is this year, the grids will be more efficient when clean.
They said they expect containment by October 31 so we may have this mess for a while.


What is this ceiling beam called above interior wall?

That board is likely nailed to the top of the 2x4 wall framing and provides a nailing surface for the ceiling finish material. Yes, you can drill through it. It’s called a nailer, is not structural, and is not a beam.


Will a lithium-ion battery powered lawn mower recharge after sitting idle though the winter?

Lithium batteries are not lead-acid.  They don't have all those "bad habits" like decaying when left in storage.
Tiny palm-sized packs such as for power tools do tend to age like normal power-tool packs and only give you 3-5 years life... but I understand lawnmower packs are bigger.
This assumes you buy quality and not some cheapo piece o' junk off Amazon Marketplace.
However, I gather you have apprehension about large lithium packs.  Lithiums do have certain rules.

Do not discharge them literally to zero.  Now, any competent lithium battery will have a Battery Management System (BMS) to protect the battery from a variety of things (including overcharge)... and it will disconnect the battery and shut down your appliance to protect it from too-deep discharge.   That does nothing about self-discharge from long storage, and I'd suggest putting them on charger every couple of months to keep them from reaching zero.
Do not recharge them if temp is below freezing.   In fact, if you try to recharge a Tesla whose battery has deep-frozen, it will first heat and circulate battery coolant, before it attempts to charge.
Never, ever, feed them after midnight.  Just kidding!

As far as buying 2 battery packs, if the supplied battery pack lacks the range to cut the whole lawn, just put the battery back on charger and cut the rest of it later.
Lithiums are happiest working in their midrange: 20-80%.  Charging is fastest and it does not need to be tapered/limited, like it must for 0-20% and 80-100%.  That's the trick about crossing the country in an EV: you can DC fast-charge within that 20-80% range very quickly.
So if it doesn't have range for the full lawn, stop at halfway and recharge... that way you'll be recharging from 20-50% SOC and it will charge pretty fast up to 80%.... then finish.


Why do type 2 SPD’s* require overcurrent protection (*load side, mains, Surge Protection Devices)

The overcurrent protection is for when the SPD itself evenutally fails — failing shorted is a fairly common occurance.