Does big current draw make GFCI outlets go bad?

I have noticed that GFCIs seem to be worn out by heavy, prolonged loads.  I can't find any authoritative sources for this effect.  Probably the GFCI manufacturers know all about it.

The bridge circuit which detects the flow imbalance depends on some precision electronics which are heat sensitive.  The heavy current itself does not affect them, but the side effect of that current heating up the components will lead to premature failure.


Screw is turning within wall plug and not tightening

You may have to pull out the anchor, fill the hole, redrill it and install a new anchor if the first one has become too misfigured. Be careful not to overtighten.  You could also get some other kind of anchors like these screw in kind that hold beter.


Can I feed this new transformer/subpanel off two 120vac legs of the 480vac panel?

A 25kw EV charger is enormous.  It's not a residential-grade unit.  It is aimed at commercial outfits, and most of them will expect to put a 25KVA load on 480 volt 3-phase.  This is for at least three reasons:

they want to evenly load all three phases, so their power bill isn't wacky.
they will not want to provision a 30KVA transformer for each charger.  Keep in mind a place fitting a 25kva charger is likely to be fitting several.
They want to put three 10AWG wires in a 1/2" conduit and call it done, not wrestle 1/0 Al into 1-1/2" conduit.

The upshot is this: the manufacturer of this unit will certainly, also, make this same unit in 480V 3-phase.  And may even be able to sell you a kit, or simply instructions, to jumper the unit for 480.  Or you could sell this unit to the plentiful supply of people who have 240, and buy a comparable 480 charger.  Putting in a 30KVA transformer is just crazy.

And while we're on that subject...

480V is not for touching.

Your skill-set is way-deadly-not-nearly enough to even be opening the door on a 480 panel. That stuff is different by nature and much more deadly than 120.  You lack key concepts of how 480V power works.  You only just now discovered that you can't take 240 off 480 the way you can take 120 off 240. Those figures are "not even wrong".  It seems like you have little bits of  knowledge, like that gained on the way to a singular goal but without comprehension.  Sorry, nothing personal but you are way out of your depth here.

Rarely do I say this, but hire a professional.

What's more, since you are not in a single-family home, doing so is mandatory anyway.  A company or landlord must hire professionals unless it retains an electrician on staff.  You'll need to pull a permit anyway, and they will want to know who the electrician is.


What is the difference between a conservatory and an orangery?

From Google:

or·ange·ry
/ˈôrənjrē/
Noun
A greenhouse where orange trees are grown.
Synonyms
hothouse

So, structurally speaking, there is no difference between the terms. The difference is merely based on what you put inside of it (whether or not you put orange trees in it). (If you grow lemon trees, is it a Lemony?)


Replacing a dryer that has a three prong hook up

What you have is 2 hots and a ground being misused as a neutral.  This is dangerous and illegal.  It would also be dangerous and illegal to misuse a neutral as a ground, except that a special exception was made in the Code to make it legal here.

Usually when you see these obsolete/dangerous NEMA 10 receptacles, they are this way because obsolete wire was used, and wire is hard to replace.  However, if you look closely, it is modern wire with both neutral and ground.  Clearly, the house originally had the modern, safe NEMA 14 type receptacle, and somebody got a used dryer with an obsolete NEMA 10 cord, and fit the NEMA 10 receptacle instead of a NEMA 14 cord.

When the NEMA 10 fails, it fails deadly, electrifying the chassis of the machine. It has a track record of killing people, although some deny this - the problem is, these accidents are typically miscategorized as miswired outlets (botched wiring) when in fact the wiring was correct and simply failed.

For safety, I would put it back to the modern, safe NEMA 14-30 receptacle and cord.  Either pull some slack from that 4-wire cable, or lower the receptacle 2 inches so you can get use of that neutral wire.

When you fit the NEMA 14 cord, remember to remove the ground-neutral link on the dryer.  Neutral should go to power terminals, ground should go to chassis, and they shouldn't be linked.


What shades of top coat is dark grey undercoat suitable for?

Like you say, everything is relative.   Architectural coatings are extremely biased toward white.  I knew that's what you were talking about the moment you said "eggshell" :)

So I suspect all the colors you are contemplating are in fact pastels or off-whites. Truly dark (Munsell 0-7 lightness) or deep (3+ chroma) colors in interiors are simply not in style, and haven't been for 50 years.  Here, see how the only color fit for architectural use is the top left (8 lightness 2 chroma)?

Munsell. Lightness is 2-8 bottom-top, chroma is even: 2 4 6 8 10.

When you have a "dark" (by architectural standards; probably 5 lightness) primer like this, it's for one of two reasons: First, because the chemistry of the stuff makes it better at its job; that's the case with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer for instance, or the mil-spec aluminum primers (the green on airplanes). Or: Second, it's tinted for undercoating extremely deep or dark colors like for warning signs or actual black or anything on the bottom half of that chart.

If the primer is merely done for color reasons, then, consult the factory, but they may allow you to add a little dark primer to white primer to dial it in to the lightness of your topcoat.  But be careful; a little dark goes a LONG way!  The reason to do this is to reduce the number of coats of topcoat needed for reliable coverage.

It's a regular thing for me to use Rustoleum Rusty on bare metal, followed by Rustoleum White primer, followed by 2 coats of an off-white.  The Rusty is there for rust protection, the white primer is there to reduce the number of topcoats needed.

As always, primer is cheaper than topcoat, and good and proper prep is cheaper than recovering from lazy prep.


How to insulate brick/plaster walls from extreme heat?

Add a corrugated roof slanting from 1ft to 2ft high with the corrugations pointing to the higher side. Convection will pull the air to the higher side and out, providing some airflow.
Insulate the ceilings of your living areas with rigid foam panels to limit heat gain from the roof. Provide awnings above your windows for shading in the summer, especially on the South facing windows, use a passive solar calculator online to size the awnings properly for passive sun heat in winter.


For pine shelves, do I need to stain before applying polyurethane?

There's no need to stain if you like the color as it it. Staining won't do anything for you and will just take more time. Chances are that your boards might already be pretty smooth, so I'd start with fine sandpaper (200 and above), not rough like 60 grain, except on edges that have been cut. If you use 60 grain on a surface which is already smooth you'll make it rougher and have to work hard just to get it back to where it was before you started!


Is it safe to install the outdoor unit of an inverter AC indoors?

Think of it this way.  You're transferring heat from the garage air, or from the outdoor air, to the upstairs living space above the garage.
The garage may be warmer than the outdoors when you start the system, but there's far less available heat, and you'll quickly transfer all available upstairs.  Soon the garage will be colder than the outdoors;  you're basically making your garage into a walk in cooler.  Yes, once it's cooler than the outdoors, heat will seep into the garage through the walls and windows and floor, but too slowly.
The practically infinite air outside, although less dense with heat than the air in the garage, contains far more energy.  That's ultimately the source of the heat.


What should I look for when choosing faux tin ceiling tiles?

After searching for a while I came across TinCeilingXpress.com They offered a 5 panel sample package which allowed me to pick 5 tiles to see what I liked best. They are reasonably priced and I found they were quick at shipping and the products came well packaged. At ~$7.00 a tile I ended up buying these tiles:

I have been pleased with how easy they were to put up and how great it looks. My biggest gripe is how sharp the tiles are. I would highly recommend some gloves when installing.

Best of luck!


Is this pocket door header load-bearing?

Firstly, reason 2 is invalid. Even narrow openings would require a load-bearing header if they carry floor or roof framing above.

Also discard reasons 3 and 4. Only the largest of headers call for two trimmer studs on each side. This one wouldn't even if it were load-bearing. Pocket doors can be and were installed anywhere a standard door might go.

Otherwise, I agree. You should be able to ascertain that there's no load resting on this header. The wall plate that runs across it should be visible from the attic, under the insulation. If that's clear, you're correct. A truss over the wall that's the same in bearing and design as the adjacent trusses isn't a concern.

This is a rare load-bearing question that has all the necessary information in it to make a confident answer. Bravo. That said, there may be factors we can't see. That's the drawback of asking the internet what it thinks. Responsibility for your safety and financial well-being still rests on you.


What kind of edging should I use between a patio and a French drain?

Here is an idea that might work for you...

Here is a revised drawing added to the first one, with the idea you had given to you and I added where the various barriers need to be.

I forgot to note in the drawing that the gray line is the filter cloth.

The full wrap of the plastic membrane will keep the excess water from migrating back to the house. Just placing it against the wall and the bottom will allow it to get to the walls still. Remember it will be a LOT of water concentrated there.

The plastic liner will act as an in ground gutter to move the water, so be sure the bottom is accurately graded towards a place the water can flow that will do the house no harm.


I have a 30amp 240 breaker going to a 240v water pump. I want to protect each leg with a GFI

In short, no. Each leg of a 240v circuit is is 180° out of phase and they share a common neutral. If both legs are hot, it will trip a 1 pole GFCI because the opposite phases cancel each other out on the neutral. You would need a 2 pole GFCI, which trips when there is a potential difference between the 2 hot legs instead of a single hot and neutral.


How can I tell if I have rock or wood lath plaster, and is there a difference when repairing cracks and peeling/flaking?

If wallpaper was painted over you could tell pretty easily by pulling on some of the peeling paint and breaking the paint chips.  Wear a respirator mask while doing this, however, as often times flaking paint is a potential indicator of lead based paint.  If the chips contain paper, then you're right, it's wallpaper with paint over it.  If it's just paint, then be more careful - get the chips tested for lead.

Given the wide spread flaking, it is likely that the wall simply wasn't properly primed.  An improperly treated wall when painted over will eventually lose adhesion with the paint and it'll flake away like you're seeing.  If they applied paint directly to wall paper w/o priming, I think the same is true.

That 2nd picture DOES remind me of wallpaper... I've scrubbed far too much backing off the walls and that looks similar.

The grey subsurface is, I think, a kind of stucco mix that was often used to even up walls where lathe and plaster was replaced with the older style 2x4 drywall panels.  It's nasty, gritty, dusty, unpleasant stuff, tougher than joint compound/plaster to work with because of it's tendency to crack and break rather catastrophically.  When I run into that stuff in my rentals my approach is, "IF I have to touch it at all, it's ALL coming down."  Plus with wallpaper I swear gutting is easier than stripping.

Now around the vent pipe, that looks like moisture damage.  The bubbling around the pipe suggest water leakage.  Is that a "finished" ceiling - ie - thats the roof on the other side of that wall w/ the pipe?  If so, make sure it's properly sealed and replace at least that area of ceiling.
Picture #5 seems to confirm this - someone touched it, and patched it badly.


Is this drain appropriate for outdoor ground water capture?

I would create a French drain at least 1/2 the width of the "swamp" and channel this to your catch basins. I did a similar thing several homes back it was great for water storage but I ended up with close to 1500 gallons before figuring out that the tanks filled with ground water and I needed to extend my drain to a lower area below the tanks. Now the tanks fill then the overflow drains down the slope no standing water or mosquitos. I would use a French drain and cover the top foot with mesh then back fill for your lawn. Note at the lowest point in the drain use rock at the surface or the water running out will erode the dirt at the surface as it runs out but the rock holds the dirt in place and allows the water to flow. If using large tanks make sure you have access holes so any sediment can be removed after about 5 years my first tank had quite a bit after 5 years but the second tank was clean.


The problem you're likely to have here is different expansion and settle rates for whatever-board-that-is-attached-to-the-tub vs the greenboard behind the vanity. Tiles attached directly to both sides are likely to crack.
You can cut back either side and attach the tile directly to the other side so it covers the gap, caulk with something flexible like 100% silicone.
You could try a very flexible adhesive (possibly modified thinset, but I don't think it's flexible enough) attaching to both sides and hope the flex takes some of the stress out of the joint.
Edit:
If the left surface actually is a tub flange (it doesn't look like it is made from the same fiberglass as the rest of the tub, and there's a mortar in the corner that makes it hard to tell if it's one piece from this photo) - cut the drywall on the right flush with the edge of the vanity (or go behind the vanity if you can) and layer concrete board up to the surface of the flange. Install one large piece that overlaps the flange and is screwed into the studs but not attached to the tub flange. Install tile on the concrete board and caulk silicone along the tile-tub edge.
This assumes the tub has good support and doesn't move much  (1-2mm perhaps) when filled with water and a human.


Where can I find the RAS131 dust hood for a Skil 1817 router?

The closest thing to parts i found is this

http://www.powertoolspares.com/tool/skil/spares-and-accessories-for-router-1830/f015183003/spares/

I cant find any hoods?


I'm writing this answer based on the assumption that you are using the words dry/wet rot and mold all to mean just mold.  Mold needs three things to grow, moisture, darkness, and warmth.  Since moisture causes other problems besides just mold I generally recommend mitigating the source of moisture, but if that is not feasible then adding UV exposure will prevent surface growth.


As BrownRedHawk suggested white silicone will keep water out (paint silicone won't accept paint). White latex caulking is similar to silicone, but it does cover easily with paint. You could also try 2 part white epoxy. This will set to a solid patch that can be sanded smooth and remain rigid and weatherproof. I'd favor the epoxy and once dry paint it with an appliance spray paint to blend it in.


I run my hot water in the bathroom sink and the toilet next to it starts bubbling

Sounds like the sink and toilet share the same sewer pipe, and that pipe is starting to get clogged.

Looks like the water coming from the sink is filling the pipe and the only place for the air in it to escape is the toilet.


How do I make a new toilet tank on an old bowl flush properly?

Try holding the lever until the toilet flushes completely. If this doesn't work, then you need to adjust your lever to flapper connection so that pressing the lever pulls the flapper up further, allowing greater water flow.

If holding the lever down for awhile until the toilet flushes completely works then it is likely to do with a mismatch between your flush mechanism and your toilet's water requirements. Recent toilet designs in the US must comply with government standards for water use, and are now low flow.  The new toilets are designed to work well with less water, typically 1.6 gallons per flush or less.  This is under half the water old toilets required.  If the toilet is older than 1994, then it likely is a style that requires 3.5 gallons per flush.

If you've replaced the top tank, or the flushing mechanism without replacing the old toilet bowl, you've run into the same problem many people have run into since the changes have been made.  Your old bowl will not flush properly with the low amount of water your new flushing mechanism provides.

However, manufacturers have designed flushing mechanisms to allow the user to provide a greater flush volume if desired.  You simply hold down the flush lever continuously until the toilet is completely flushed, using up the entire tank of water.

It's not as convenient as pressing and releasing immediately, but it should get the job done.

Another option is to purchase a 3.5 gallon per flush mechanism and replace yours with the larger volume flush mechanism.

Alternately, you can replace the toilet bowl with one designed to work with a low flush volume.

If you want to modify your existing flush mechanism to provide adequate water volume permanently, you can examine the mechanism and you should be able to modify it so it empties the entire tank into the bowl with a single press and release.  In most mechanisms the low flow is accomplished with a small hole in the flapper.  When the flapper is raised by the lever, there is an air bubble trapped in it that keeps it up until the water level drops low enough.  In low flow mechanisms there is also a small hole that releases the air in this bubble, so the flap drops before the water reaches the bottom of the tank.  Block this hole, and the flap will stay up until the tank is emptied.

The combined overflow tube and flapper system you have should have a similar small hole that allows the flapper to drop before the tank is emptied, although it might not be as obvious as it is on a typical flapper.

Another method that is used is a separate float on the chain or flapper assembly that is higher up, which allows the flapper to close before the tank is fully empty.  These can be adjusted downward to allow the tank to empty more fully, but they may not be able to be adjusted down far enough to fully empty the tank.

If you examine the mechanism while it's flushing, you might be able to determine what is allowing your flapper to close before the tank is fully empty.

Note that if you do make such a change to your system, you should not be in violation of federal standards, but local regulations may prohibit such modifications.

However, in all cases, holding the lever until the toilet flushes completely should work, unless the mechanism isn't adjusted properly in the first place.


Gas line for new stove going from T to termination plate

Home Depot lists CSST ½" pipe at 25' here.

Lowe's has a lot shorter flex pipe here.

I don't know why you couldn't put the flex through the floor and then have your shut off valve.

I don't know what you mean by an "excess flow valve" but I would just pipe it straight through with the shut off valve in there somewhere.


What do I need to do to repair the plaster ceiling of my garage (on metal lath)?

I don't see the drywall you mention. It looks like conventional plaster, possibly in two layers.
You can certainly re-plaster right over that metal lath. It seems to be solid and flat yet. I'd watch some videos for technique and be sure you have a good quality, compatible product so it holds up over time.


Do I need to overlay plywood on my drop-in tub deck before installing tile backer?

No, you don't. Doing so could be a way to stiffen and reinforce the framing, but it's not required.

I'd be sure your corner laps are all secure and well supported. The left end in particular concerns me a little--that's a fairly long span for flat lumber. If there's any chance of movement, add framing underneath and screw things together well. Construction adhesive would remove all doubt.

The key is to eliminate movement (flex) under the load of the tub users. (The tub itself shouldn't rest on the deck at all.) If you can see or feel movement under your own weight, it needs work.


It's your electrical service ground, comes from your panelbox.


frozen pipe: heating tape, compressed air?

You obviously have a severe cold zone where the shower is, what's under the shower" You are going to need to get room temperature air flowing in where the piping is before it turns colder and the pipe bursts when your pipe spits open. If there's a space behind the shower where the pipes are for cutting an opening top and bottom of this space to allow circulation through this space will help or if possible a heating run off the hot air duct discharging from under this space with an opening at the ceiling height to let the air flow through can most likely solve it if you leave the fan run all the time. Poorly designed washroom is the problem with no thought or thoughts to taking out or away any cold air zones when building this house is the only issue. Some builders should stick to fishing for a livelyhood not building houses or really bad designs followed behind by paid off inspectors and the end is always the same, new home buyers need to invest a pile of cash to repair their new houses.


Why am I finding condensation in my dryer?

Usually a dryer vent will have a spring loaded flap where it exits the house to prevent outside air (and bugs, rodents, etc) from coming in through the pipe.  If you are getting airflow from outside through your vent pipe, it sounds like either you don't have one or it isn't closing.  I would check that first.


Can I Install a 60 AMP Breaker and Outlet with 220 - 240 Volts 63 Amp in My Home?

Since your 100 amp, 240 volt service consists of 100 amp, 120 volt branches, you can have 100 amps of load on each of the two branches. Note that the AC has two 120 volt breakers with the handles connected together. That uses both of the 120 volt branches to make a 30 amp, 240 volt breaker. As shown the box has breakers totaling 75 amps on one branch and 80 amps on the other. If you add a 60 amp, 240 volt breaker you will have 135 amps on one side and 140 amps on the other.

You can have breaker capacity in excess of the main circuit breaker rating based on the assumption that many of the load devices will only be used for short intervals of time during a day. However if the server uses 48 amps all of the time, it would not be difficult to imagine a day when the AC is running a lot, the refrigerator is cycling on occasionally, you stick something in the microwave and your wife is vacuuming.

It may not be out of the question, but it is somewhat doubtful. The service is already nut up to today's code. Today, a residence should have two 20 amp circuits dedicated to kitchen counter outlets and one 20 amp circuit dedicated to bathroom outlets. A microwave and garbage disposer often have their own circuits.

The box itself is likely capable of handling 200 amps at 240 volts, but you may have service entry wiring only rated for 100 amps. An electrician may come and quote a price at no charge. You can not get a good answer without that, but there is likely a way to get it done. Note that 48 amps at 240 volts is a lot of power. That is like having the oven and all the burners going at one time in an electric stove.

You don't need the Hubbell 363R6W. Use a standard electric range outlet.


You have a panel with 12 spaces and you are using 4. Just move the red wire to an AFCI in a new space in the panel.

I would also move the lower black wire to where the red wire is now, so it becomes visually obvious that both wires are meant to be on the same pole.   I'm all for using a rainbow of colors in conduit/THWN, but in residential use with NM cable, red always means something special in some way.

On a tandem (I call them double-stuff) breaker, both circuits are on the same pole.  It is very easy for someone to confuse them for a 2-pole breaker, which MWBC's require for safety.  So when an electrician sees a panel with a double-stuff with red and black wires, he'll pause and follow the wires just to make sure that mistake wasn't made.


Painting oil base over latex paint using a latex primer

Alkyd over latex is touch-and-go - well, it works or it doesn't.  That depends on several things.

First, is the latex paint new?  If it's less than a year old, forget it - it will not be happy being overcoated with an alkyd (oil based) paint.

Second, you can do an adhesion test.  If it passes the adhesion test, you are all set - you can use that paint.  Google's not much help here because everybody wants to sell you elaborate paint-test equipment. You only need a razor blade, packing tape, and a cotton ball. And this procedure explains it.  The test is fairly over-wrought, but you can shortcut down to what matters to you.  I've bolded the parts that I'd do.

Find an area which is concealed and won't show too badly, but is intact.
Make a cross-hatch of razor cuts through the first few coats of paint.
Clean it carefully. Don't leave any soap residue.
Do a tape test: stick tape firmly to the crosshatch area, and pull it off, folding the tape back nearly 180 as you pull it off (not straight out). These first few steps are documented in this video.  Also it's better to use packing tape.
Tape a cotton-ball to the cross-hatched area, and wet it in the paint's reducer (i.e. paint thinner).  Use very long runs of tape, as the thinner may try to dissolve the tape goo.
Wait 30 minutes, remove it and see if the paint has softened or dissolved.
Wait til it dries.
Do the tape yank test again.
Sand, wipedown and prep the crosshatch area same as you plan to prep the house.
Paint it with that paint.
Wait til it dries.  Look for problems.
Do the tape yank test again.


bathroom fan does not turn on, just hums for 2 minutes then finally starts up

I don't disagree that replacing the fan is likely the best long-term solution, but it is possible that the fan's intermittent failure to start is due to dust. Starting up from a still position is the hardest a fan needs to "work", and dust buildup could be adding too much extra resistance on the fan rotor, preventing it from starting. You would hear a similar humming sound in any electric motor which has power applied but cannot turn over.

Why would this happen intermittently? One possible explanation would be that the fan rotor "lands" in a random place in its 360 degree range of movement each time, so sometimes it lands in a better or worse spot vis-à-vis dust buildup.

You could try using a can of compressed air to dislodge built-up dust inside the fan. It might relieve the problem, for a little while.

But the motor may be going bad due to the extra resistance of all the dust, so it will probably take less and less resistance to prevent it from starting as time goes on. At this point it is probably getting bad and should be replaced. (Maybe blowing out the dust will help you for a little while, though)


Google Nest Thermostat tripping Double Pole 25A breaker

Based on your comment about the unit running fine after indoor temperature got closer to the setting. I would say that there is an issue with the auxiliary heat strips. They come on when the requested temperature you set is more than a couple degrees higher than the room temperature.
There is a high current draw to run these strips. They also come on when outdoor temperature is too low for heat pump to function properly.
Make sure the wiring feeding the heat strips is large enough to service the load they draw. Find a label that states the KW of the heat strips.  Then find what size breaker is needed to provide that.  It may be that the wire and breaker is undersized for the new heat strips. 10kw strips will often be fed from a 60 amp circuit.
Edit:  looking at your photo I see a double on the right bank labeled heat pump.  What does that feed? It looks like that is 30A for outdoor unit.
The 60a circuit should be powering the heat strips. It could be that your old thermostat was not wired to activate the strips. The nest is wired to turn them on but the 25 amp circuit is not able to handle heat strip load.  Some pictures of the air handler and how it is wired would help rule in or out this hypothesis.


How long do batteries typically last in electronic deadbolts?

I've used something similar on my front door for about 4 years now (4xAA instead of a 9V) and it's great not having to carry keys everywhere. On average, I change the batteries about every 12-18 months. I guess it all depends on how often you use it and how worried you are about getting locked out.  Personally I don't bother testing the batteries because mine beeps angrily when they start to get low.


Check valve seeping around hinge nut - should I replace it?

Well just clean it up with the pressure gone! Then follow the instructions. Do not waste $ that is a quality valve. Shut off the pressure to this valve, heat and pump. Then clean it up and seal as you should have done to start with.


What is the recommended home design software?

See this question. Google Sketchup seems to be a good option if you don't want to pay big bucks.

Also, here's a tutorial for framing layout in Sketchup.


How to fix persistant cracks on this section of the wall and why do they show up even after repainting?

Your 1st picture shows an issue where you have a layer of paint which is not well adhered to the surface underneath (and probably more layers painted on top of that).
This is like putting a piece of scotch-tape onto a dusty surface and expecting it to stick.
More and more layers of paint will never fix this.
You'd need to strip/scrape/peel all of the old paint off until you get back down to something solid and start the paint journey over again from scratch.

While doing this you'll probably also find what's under that crack in the 2nd picture - there's likely still movement on each side of the crack, but it might be possible to manage this once you know what's under there...


Cracks in concrete are quite common, there is nothing you can do that would stop the crack. I have in the past attached separate pieces of heavy plastic, marked a line and taken a photo, then checked it a year later, in many cases there is no movement is some I have called foundation specialists. Depending on the construction they may say there is nothing they can do, in some cases they can stabilize to prevent any further shifting. I would mark it and take a photo so you have a date and the condition, then check for movement later.  If you look closely almost all concrete is cracked, if it is not now give it 10 years because as my Dad told me over 50 years ago there are 2 types of concrete the kind with cracks and the kind that will crack.

Note I used plastic to see if the wall was settling and or shifting, in that case it was a shift and we removed the back fill that was causing the shift.


Puzzled why motion sensor set off home alarm while away!

Many things can set off a motion sensor erroneously, though it depends on what sort of motion sensor you're talking about.  There are a number of different types of motion sensors; PIR (passive infrared) is the most common in home security systems.
PIR works by looking for changes in the ambient temperature in areas it's monitoring, the assumption being that if there's a large enough temperature "blob" that's moving across the field being monitored, it's a person.

Assuming you don't have pets, things like a cold draft, or incandescent lights turning on/off, or an insect flying in front of the sensor could all trip the sensor.

Another possibility is an electrical fault of some sort, such that the sensor itself didn't trip, but the alarm system thought the sensor did.  If it's a wireless sensor, you may want to replace the batteries; if it's wired, you should check continuity, and that there's a resistor in place.

I can say that yes, I had a number of false positives from the motion detectors I had; I replaced them with more modern sensors, and haven't had a problem since.  If you really want to cut down on false alarms, you could get a dual technology motion sensor, so that two different ways of detecting movement have to agree before an alarm is generated.


Can't find the release for this wiring harness connector

Picture is a bit fuzzy to be certain, but typical for this sort of connector would be to slide a flat screwdriver up the center (between the ridges on the left part) to pry up a tab sticking down from the end of the slot on the right part. Or, to lift the end of the slot off a tab sticking UP from the left part.

Or, sometimes, the screwdriver goes in the slot, from the right. Picture is not clear enough to tell which flavor you have, either try it, or take a better/bigger/clearer picture.

They can be pretty stiff to get apart even when unlocked, depending how long they have been together and how tight everything is. You also need 3 hands sometimes, as the locking tab won't STAY out unless you can actually get the screwdriver under it, and sometimes there isn't room, without breaking the connector, so you need someone to pry and someone to pull at the same time.


Should a water heater's anode be replaced?

The anode rod corrodes over time, and once it does, cold water is not properly delivered to the bottom of the heater which results in luke-warm water.  The simple answer is that it should be replaced as-needed.

On some water heaters, this rod is part of the cold water supply, so replacing it requires disconnecting the tank which can be a fair bit of work. Some heaters have what is known as a sacrificial anode rod that is independent to the intakes and exists solely to protect the rest of the water heater from corrosion - usually this one is easier to remove and replace.

If you have plans to shortly replace the whole tank, I would not replace the rod unless you suspect it is already corroded and causing problems.


Can water-based paint be applied to a concrete countertop?

Can you paint it? - Yes. Will you regret painting it? - Probably.
A concrete stain will get into the material and darken it, and then a concrete/stone sealer will reduce the porosity of the surface.
Paint sits on top, and in countertop service will almost certainly get scarred, scraped and generally dinged up - so repainting may be a frequent task. It's not impossible (painted countertops are not unheard of) but it is annoying (painted countertops are not common these days.)


Does code allow a main-lug-only panel connected to the meter lugs?

Can the main lugs in the meter can be double tapped like this and
  still be within code?

The short answer is NO. NEC 110.14 States: Terminals for more than one conductor ... Shall be so identified. I have never found a 200A residential 120/240V meter base that had an identified multi-tap fitting, and the utility companies I have worked with forbid it.

That being said, it is allowed to have a maximum of 6 service disconnects at the meter. So it is not unusual to put a small panel beside an existing Main and add an extra breaker and leave space for additions. All that is wrong is that there must be something like a junction box added and tap the conductors there instead of at the lug.

If you electrician balks about it you can always get the AHJ or the utility company involved and see what they have to say. At least I would contact the owner (not the electrician in the field) of the contracting company and see if they want to get them involved as a tie breaker.

Hope this helps.


Few month old Stamped concrete patio crumbling in a few areas

It looks like maybe the concrete was allowed to cure too long before stamping and had started to harden excessively. You could grind the loose areas down, but they'll have a different appearance from the textured areas.

If it was my patio, and I wasn't interested in pursuing satisfaction from the mason, I'd probably find an epoxy sealer that's designed for concrete and try to bandage it up as well as possible without altering the appearance too much. You may be able to tint the epoxy to match, and then fill the cracks in the crumbed areas to bond them together.


Can the socket in my recessed light be replaced without replacing the entire framing kit?

Good question. Yes, it's likely that you have to replace everything. This is one of the downsides of recessed lighting... most of the time the wires from the service tie-in are contained inside a housing or inside of a conduit. It's not weird at all to have it be like that... there are very few can light fixtures where this is not the case (due to fire concerns).

Can you access the fixture from above? If so, it's easy to remove. It's a little more complicated if there's no attic access to the fixture --- although there should be, because that fixture does not seem to be suited for insulated cavities. If that fixture has insulation touching it, you want to replace it (and all your others where they touch insulation) regardless of condition with an IC-rated fixture.


Replace.  Some say that filter media is meant to be washed and reused, but my experience is it passes ginormous amounts of dirt.

If it were up to me, I would throw that away and install 2" pleated MERV 7 (or 8) disposable pleated filters.  I usually purchase these from a local supply house that specializes in air filters because they will often sell any size needed for a reasonable price.  The prepackaged media available in hardware stores can be okay in a pinch, but they are often a poor value and those stores usually do not sell anything thicker than 1" pleated.

A 2" pleated Merv 7 Filter looks something like this:

Actual width and height are typically 1/2 inch under nominal.  Actual thickness is typically 1/4" under nominal.  (16 x 20 x 2 nominal is actually 15.5 x 19.5 x 1.75 to give installation clearance).  Air filter supply houses specializing in this media can usually fabricate these to order at a reasonable price.  These are called "pleated air filters, MERV 7 (or MERV 8)."  The MERV rating refers to the particle size that the filter traps.  Higher number gives tighter filtration, but most residential blowers cannot tolerate a filter more restrictive than MERV 8.


Why do my toilets flush slowly and often incompletely?

I picked up some CLR and scrubbed all the jets under the rim. I even ran some through the tank - open flapper so as to minimize contact with the rubber and plastic. Using a mirror and a small piece of wire I was able to clean out a few stubborn holes.

All toilets were able to take a steady volume of water from a bucket without issue. This lead me to do a little more research. What I found was the hole at the bottom of the toilet that forces water down the drain is actually more susceptible to clogging and plays a larger role in the syphoning action. All three toilets had significant mineral build-up in this hole. A few minutes with my finger was able to clear out quite a lot. Some careful work with a small l-shaped alan wrench brought me the rest of the way home. Whammy!

The two younger toilets now flush like a champ. The oldest was so badly plugged I'll be needing a replacement. I'm gonna try a little soaking with CLR to see if it'll free up but I'm expecting a trip to the hardware store.


Does this seem like the right place to tap a C-Wire from my heater?

We've seen exactly the same wiring diagram.. with almost the same question asked.. over there: Where to connect C wire if no C terminal. But you've found additional information about the appliance controls!
It looks like the pin 6 you've identified is not always-on 24V. Instead, it is the switched line coming from the thermostat's call for heat.
The text from the service manual does lead one to believe that pin 5 is the common terminal you're looking for. You can confirm it with a meter by measuring voltage from pin 5 to the R terminal, or you might consider the answer I gave on that other question.


Will GFCI curcuit breaker operate properly with neutral pigtail wire not connected?

The GFCI absolutely needs its neutral wires

He can't make it work and he's trying to walk out the door.  He needs your signature on a piece of paper, so he futzes with wires until it works, fumbles an excuse, gets you to sign, gone.   What are you to say to his face?

In effect, he challenged you to either accept things as-is or be discourteous.  You chose to be courteous.  Standard contractor play.

If you read the instructions for the GFCI breaker, he certainly did not install it according to the instructions, which means the work is illegal under NEC 110.3b ( listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling ).

There's a real problem, likely a hard one

Most likely he found to his dismay that the circuit's neutral was being shared by another circuit... either a load grabbed this hot and another circuit's neutral, or vice versa.  Or alternately, one of the loads on that circuit actually does have a ground fault -- people always forget about that possibility, but that is the entire point of a GFCI, after all!  He didn't want to spend half a day doing a "bug hunt", so he dodged the issue and got paid.

Sometimes it is a systematic version of that thing, called a multi-wire branch circuit -- but those are easy for any competent person to spot.  And very easily fixed: fit a 2-pole GFCI and done.  So I doubt it's that.


Is there any way to replace drill batteries?

Sorry to disagree with KeithS, however there are many companies that rebuild NiCad battery packs. I'm not saying it is a great deal financially, however most common brands can be rebuilt. NiCad packs, for example, are made of several 1.5Vdc cells. the cells themselves are usually pretty uniform in size, however can differ in quality. Putting more in series makes for higher voltages, putting more in parallel gives higher AH ratings.  Beware of super discounters, look for a company that offers a good warranty and replacement policy.  An example: http://www.freedombatteryrebuilds.com  not endorsing them, just an example of re-builders.


I have an induction cooktop in my island powered by a 40 amp circuit, can I spur off this to install two outlets on the side of the island?

No, you cannot tap off of a 40 amp circuit for receptacle circuits.
According to the National Electrical Code Article 210.21(B) and Table 210.21(B)(3) Receptacles connected to a 40 amp circuit would have to be rated 40 or 50 amps. Kinda tough to plug your toaster in to those.

210.21(B)(3) Receptacle Ratings.  Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3), or, where rated higher than 50 amperes, the receptacle rating shall not be less than the branch-circuit rating.

Here are two other places in the National Electrical Code that cover kitchen branch circuits.
The exception below allows you to power cooking equipment from a 50 amp branch circuit but not receptacles from a 40.

210.19 (A) (3) Household Ranges and Cooking Appliances.  Branch-circuit conductors supplying household ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and other household cooking appliances shall have an ampacity not less than the rating of the branch circuit and not less than the maximum load to be served. For ranges of 83∕4 kW or more rating, the minimum branch-circuit rating shall be 40 amperes.
Exception No. 1: Conductors tapped from a 50-ampere branch circuit supplying electric ranges, wall-mounted electric ovens, and counter-mounted electric cooking units shall have an ampacity of not less than 20 amperes and shall be sufficient for the load to be served. These tap conductors include any conductors that are a part of the leads supplied with the appliance that are smaller than the branch-circuit conductors. The taps shall not be longer than necessary for servicing the appliance.

The Code requires a minimum of 2 20 amp Small-Appliance to serve the counter tops in the kitchen. The pertinent article is below:

210.11(C) Dwelling Units.
(1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits.  In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits shall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by 210.52(B).

Kitchen island counters require enough receptacles so no part of the counter is more than 24 inches from a receptacle.

210.52(C) Countertops and Work Surfaces. In kitchens, pantries, breakfast rooms, dining rooms, and similar areas of dwelling units, receptacle outlets for countertop and work surfaces shall be installed in accordance with 210.52(C)(1) through (C)(5).
(1) Wall Countertop and Work Surface. A receptacle outlet shall be installed at each wall countertop and work surface that is 300 mm (12 in.) or wider. Receptacle outlets shall be instal‐ led so that no point along the wall line is more than 600 mm (24 in.) measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space.
Exception: Receptacle outlets shall not be required on a wall directly behind a range, counter-mounted cooking unit, or sink in the installa‐ tion described in Figure 210.52(C)(1).
(2) Island Countertop Spaces.  At least one receptacle shall be installed at each island countertop space with a long dimension of 600 mm (24 in.) or greater and a short dimension of 300 mm (12 in.) or greater.

So, you need some receptacles on the island. And you can't feed them from taps off of the 40 amp circuit. However, you could put a sub-panel on the island as Tyson points out. The problem with this idea is the cooktop takes the entire capacity of your sub-panel.
The best thing to do would be to run #12 AWG wire for one or more circuits to the island.
Good luck!


How can I safely install a frameless melamine wall cabinet that has a thin pressboard backing, and no hanging rail?

Install a "cleat" on the wall and hang the cabinet on the cleat. Screw through the thin backing into the cleat. The cleat would be thick enough to protrude slightly past the sides and top. One or two screws holding the cleat onto the wall would ideally be into a stud. Two other screws holding the cleat could be into drywall near the ends of the cleat to resist rotation.


How could I flatten these warped sleepers layed on uneven concrete to an acceptable level?

Perhaps you're thinking about this in the wrong order.

What if you applied the plywood to the almost level sleepers and then leveled a surface over the ply?

I think you''re going to have a very difficult time leveling sleepers as you have in that photo.

EDIT: Per your comment that you intend to install tile atop ditra.... you have a very forgiving tolerance with the subfloor, then!
Glue and screw the ply into the sleepers. Then apply the Ditra.
You can level out imperfections in the leveling with thinset below the tile depending on just how bad things are.


How harmful are trace amounts of the product inside large-ant capsules for miniature humans?

A pesticide would not be sold for home use if it were harmful to children in trace amounts.  They are generally safe if used correctly. Take for example Maxforce FC Ant Killer Bait Gel, the bait that I often use to control ants.  It uses Fipronil at a concentration of 0.001%.  When I first started using this bait, I was a little freaked out, because I had to order the stuff online.  They didn't sell it in the stores.  Then one day I happened to look at the label of the Frontline Plus flea treatment that I apply liberally to my dog each month. Turns out that it contains 10% Fipronil!  I did some research, and found out that Fipronil is selectivly harmful to insects (I still don't want it on me though).

Other insecticides are similar.  When applied as instructed, they will not be harmful to humans. The best news is that you don't have to take anyone's word for it.  Each of these insecticides have a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), which will tell you how and in what concentrations the chemicals are harmful to humans.  Just search for the product you are using and "MSDS".


How can I get my gas fire pit to have a larger flame or better disperse heat?

We had a similar issue.  The solution is to stack up larger chunks of lava rock into something that is vaguely pyramid shaped.  As you note, the heat rises and if you have a large stack of rock over the flames, the rock will redirect this convective heat through the rock and heat up the rock itself.  Once the stack of rock is heated (ours gets quite glowing red in the middle), it radiates the heat out to the sides (where people are sitting) quite effectively... much better than the flat layer of rock in the bottom of the fire pit.  Since most of the heat is in the middle of the ring, that is where you want your stack tallest since it will extract more useful heat that way.

The only thing you need to be careful of is the stack of rock tumbling down.  Fortunately, lava rock is quite porous and there is a lot of friction between two pieces.  You can easily stack the rock in an interlocking manner and test it but pulling or pushing to ensure that the stack is stable, and that red hot rock won't come tumbling out on you while the fire is going.  With heating and cooling, the rock will shift over time so it is best to inspect the stack periodically to make sure it stays stable.

Note, I'm talking about large size lava rock, not the stuff I see in your fire pit.  Something like what you see here:


Changing radiators to radiant wall heating

Changing the delivery method in the room does not address the (evident) actual problem of having the space controlled by a thermostat in a different room which does not track well with it.

Radiant wall can be a nice setup, but it is also very slow to respond, so you will probably make the disconnect between the living room thermostat and the bedroom worse, not better.

Unless you have a major desire to try radiant wall, simply splitting the heating into more circuits (a bit more pipe, and valves or pumps, and another thermostat) will solve the problem you describe reliably and with less disruption to the house, and for less cost, by isolating the bedroom heat to a circuit controlled by a thermostat in the bedroom.

If you do have a desire to try radiant wall, you will still want to separate the heating loops, and the radiant wall loop should probably also have a control to reduce the temperature in that loop (it's a common item - "injection circulator" is one term, there are also valves to achieve the same end) basically the fluid in the wall is running around a loop that is connected to the loop from the heat source, but only enough hot fluid from the heat source is added to the loop to maintain the lower temperature suitable for the radiant loop, rather than running the full flow of high-temperature fluid through the radiant loop.


You could try pepper extract. Crush very hot peppers in water, let soak, then filter. Wipe this onto a test area and see if this repels the flies.

Or just use pesticide spray on the walls. Use one of the fairly non-persistent products that contain chlorpyrifos or chlorpyrifos-methyl or permethrin. If the flies are getting in around a loosely fitting door, you might get some control just spraying the edge of the door and the jamb.


Mid door knob installation door shut and can’t open

Never mind! Figured it out.  Add knob and turn...lol.  Well originally tried that and it wasn’t catching. Apparently I did not have spindle pushed all the way in tight and in place.


Most likely the outlets are all wired together in a "daisy-chain" fashion, so an open neutral from one would affect all others farther downstream.  I'd recommend opening up the first outlet (or all of them, if you don't know which is which) and check if the neutral has come loose.  In particular, if these outlets are wired with so-called backstabs where the wire is only held in by a spring clip, that's a likely culprit.  When you re-wire, it's highly recommended to use the screws since they're much more reliable.


Header size and support for 10 foot window

A header of that size should be double 2x10, or at least 2x8. Sag is a concern (you don't want your windows to bind), but lateral stability is also. Walls like that tend to flex a lot in the wind and when doors are closed, creating pressure bursts. You don't want the thing bouncing and rattling the windows. You can see the flex in a 10' 2x6 just by leaning on it. That gives you an idea of what gravity will do over time.
Single trimmer studs are probably fine since you're not carrying overhead load. Double would be more appropriate for a header of that length if you have room.
There's really no point to joist hangers if you have supporting studs below. They're for carrying load, which there shouldn't be on the 2x12s unless they're intended to be beams themselves. I doubt they are. Face nail or toenail the header in wherever you can.
These suggestions are not gleaned from load tables or specific building codes, but from experience building in heavily-regulated jurisdictions. If you want to meet code (and not just achieve the intent of the code) you'll probably need to get someone on site.


Your subfloor should be rigid enough that joist orientation isn't a factor in your flooring design, be it hardwood or tile.

Follow the specifications of your mortar manufacturer, or go with 3/4" solid boards, plywood, or OSB plus 1/2" plywood or cement board as a minimum.


Is there a more visually discreet alternative to a range hood?

Retractable Downdraft Range Hoods:

(source)

(source)

Inset Downdraft Range Hood:

(source)


Should I set deck post footings deeply or use concrete footings?

It works for pole barns, it will work for your deck. However, be careful of the quality and/or treatment of your PT lumber - I've seen pressure treated lumber rot off in the ground despite being pressure treated. I think the thicker sections (such as 6x6) are rather difficult to get throughly treated all the way through. I've seen some pole barns use 3 2x6 laminated (though that was ALSO a trick to be able to have PT in the ground and non-PT above the ground, by having a staggered splice in the layers after it was above ground.) Presumably there are more carefully done ones that are "post or piling" grade and less well done ones that are "landscape timber" but in many cases there's just one type in stock, take it or leave it - so you might want to look into it more and figure out when you should leave it and shop elsewhere, or special-order something different.


Running ethernet cable between drywall and cement foundation, and repairing drywall afterwards

It’s not a horrible idea and should be fine.
if it was power you would need a nail plate over the wire but data doesn’t even need an electrical box.

I usually purchase metal rings that hold the cover plate , you will find most cable installed this way where they punch a hole through the wall, go inside find the hole and cut the opening slip the plate in , much easier than trying to fish the cable through a hole in the old work box.

These devices are called drywall brackets, mud rings, low voltage mounting brackets. Some are metal some are plastic they range in price from .50 to ~6$

I bought a case a while back of single gang sw-wbf-1 they were maybe .30 in bulk (100 count) some come with screws some don’t but drywall screws work just fine to anchor them in the Sheetrock.

You may want to cut a small Chanel in the Sheetrock to allow enough space for the wire as it looks like it is attached directly to the foundation.


That is simply a mis-wired 3-way.

On each switch you'll have a "common" terminal and two others. Typically a black screw and two gold. You need to confirm that the "travelers" are on the gold screws. Look at this diagram to see what I mean.

In this case the black/red pair are the travelers, but could be any colors depending on how it's wired. Just keep in mind, the same two wires must be on the travelers.


Why isn't there hot water coming from my faucet after stem replacement?

This sounds like an older style (washer type) installation. Is it possible that part of an old washer is stuck in the seat, or was pushed back behind the seat into the pipe, preventing water flow? First, make sure you have hot water TO the tub area. Turn the water off and remove the hot side, stem and all. Inspect for obstructions. You may need to briefly turn the water back on with the stem OUT, to blow out any obstructions. Have a helper turn the water on and back off, as you watch for any debris coming out. Once you have established hot water to the valve, you can check for an obstruction AFTER the hot water valve where it feeds into the tub spout, either part of an old washer or other debris. With the valve stem out, and the cold water valve off, try blowing air back through the spout to clear this (it will go into the hot water valve area) and then clear the valve out again before replacing the stem and washer, handles, etc.

Nine times out of ten, some obstruction will be in the line either before the valve or after it, where it feeds into the common pipe to the spout.


You should be able to just pick off the worst bits and apply new joint compound. Do it in 2 thin layers if the plaster is thick. It will look a bit patchy if you don't sand and paint afterwards.


I'll take a stab at this. I actually have on of these in my brick wall. Not the exact one you linked, mine is a Hubell MR420CZ, but it's very similar. I like it, like you said, it looks much nicer than the ones that stick out from the wall. It is a little bit clumsier to use, because the receptacle is actually recessed several inches in, and you probably couldn't plug larger plugs in, just the regular ones. So for example, a pressure washer that has a plug with built-in GFCI would not work due to the recessed setup.
Regarding installation, yes, the box is about the full depth of one brick, and about the same size as brick+mortar joints. I installed mine while building the wall. I suppose it should be possible to install into an existing wall, but it may be quite tricky.
The main thing is that, after making room by removing a brick and the mortar, you will need to figure out how to get the box in and fix it in place. With mine, I was able to mortar it in place and there are some screws that are now embedded in the mortar. You could probably use something like tapcons if you can find them thin and long enough and you have the right tools. You would have to be very gentle when fastening them. Or you could use a strong polyurethane based exterior caulk around the edge of the box. Depending on how the box you purchase is setup, maybe you will also be able to fasten through the back into the sheating behind the brick wall, if there is any.


Install the chains to the light and to the mounting plate. Then weave the three wires through the chain up into the mounting plate. Connect the ground wire from the light to the ground from the mounting plate to the ground from the ceiling. Then connect black to black and white to white.


Anyone have any idea what cable is this?

From my point of view, looks like an optical fiber from isp. Not very clear on the core view.

The elaborate connector on the other end probably will explain it, if you took that photo to an electrical supply house.


Is there a proper name for this kind of toothed disk?

What we have here is a Hirth Joint.

  A Hirth joint or Hirth coupling is a type of mechanical connection named after its developer Albert Hirth. It is used to connect two pieces of a shaft together and is characterized by tapered teeth that mesh together on the end faces of each half shaft.


Problem with condensation on HVAC ducts inside house

I just had this same issue it was resolved by setting my fan higher setting and changing the dirty filter


What (animal?) made a 0.75" diameter hole through my asphalt shingles?

I call them manufacture burn holes, I see them in most roofs even roofs only 1 year old, it is normally where there are either loose stone or poor seal of the stones on the shingle and with out the stones there is no protection and the sun will burn right thru the asphalt, it looks like your in this picture had some help with insects or yellow jackets, normally it just goes to the fiber or the shingle below, here is picture of one year old roof, just starting to deteriorate,


Can I run low voltage undercabinet lighting wire under overhead microwave oven above the stove

As far as code is concerned yes you can.
Have seen some very nice jobs where the strips in plastic were attached behind the front framework, just enough of a space so the one that was used could not be seen unless actually looking under the cabinets. I like the coated ones so they can be wiped off, I have seen the “tapes” of lights attached exposed and wonder how long those will work especially close to a stove. So your plan is starting out well if you can mount them well and have the control switch in a good location it can be a nice application.


How can I make a bedroom with lots of windows darker?

I'm not sure how window shades would be costing so much, have you seen blackout curtains?

I have also seen suggested fitting the window with thick styrofoam pieces. This is very cheap and easily removable, but not very pretty.

Another option is tinfoil. Over a few years the sun begins to eat at the foil and small holes appear.


Try using 2 putty knives, about 1 inch wide. Choose the flexible style that have nice thin ends. Start on one of the short sides close to a corner, with the 2 knife ends side-by-side. Alternate the 2 knives like a step exerciser, prying to lift the plate away from the sticky strip. Work both sides of the corner, but mostly along the short side toward the other corner. Increase the height until you can lift it slowly like a book cover.
Re-assemble with 2-sided tape of high-temp RTV caulking.


I Build homes in Arizona and use 100% PEX in construction. To be honest with you I have never noticed any odor at all from the pipe so my guess is the odor must dissipate. I lived in a house that was PEX as well and did not notice a smell. I imagine it could be different if you are already living in an enclosed home when the PEX is installed, but there are no solvents or glues used so I'm still at a loss for where the smell could be coming. I hope this helps. You might reach out to UPONOR based in Minneapolis. I think they are the manufacturers.


Can bathroom lights be on same circuit as bedroom lights?

Yes. There's nothing different about bathroom lights vs bedroom lights. In fact, I would say it's a bad idea to tie the bathroom lights to the bathroom outlet (which should be a GFCI). Otherwise you drop your hair dryer and suddenly you're in the dark!

The only thing you might need to consider is that bathrooms tend to have exhaust fans on the same circuit as the lights. These tend to draw more amps than a light, so make sure you don't overload your circuit.


Assuming that they are threaded in correctly, you just need to apply adequate force. Pipe threads are tapered to make a seal (which you don't care about in this application) but there is considerable latitude in how far they can be tightened, with proper pipe wrenches (always use two.)

Otherwise, you can add unions to get exactly the angle you want, but the normal approach (particularly when you don't have to make a seal) is just to get them tight enough, and then crank it up more to get them aligned. You have to really overdo it (or start cross-threaded) to seriously damage the threads.

You MIGHT find some benefit in using pipe dope (as for sealing) since it will provide some lubrication, without being all slippery like grease or oil. i.e. It's designed for the job at hand.


Law on lead Gas pipes

Existing installations that are not leaking or faulty do not have to be replaced.

See Is it necessary to replace lead gas pipes?

  Should he have cut the gas off and left them vulnerable

Only if there was a gas leak or the installation was in a dangerous condition. If so I believe he should have given them a written notice.

  He is charging them £600 to replace pipes

Get at least one (preferably more) separate quotations from different companies.

As a matter of principle I would avoid giving additional work to tradesmen who invoke the law to obtain additional money. Often tradesmen/engineers will tell you what is required for new installations as if that had to be retrospectively applied to existing installations - the law does not require that (in general) unless there is a defect or a major change.

  they now feel cornered to have the work carried out by that company.

I would urge them to stop dealing with this company. In their position, if pestered by people from this company I would just say I am arranging for any problems with the installation to be dealt with and leave it at that. I would cut off any conversation at that point. There's absolutely no need to communicate further with a company that makes you uncomfortable, they have no rights to make any demands of you.

If their bill for work already completed to your daughter's complete satisfaction seems unreasonable,  I would write to the company saying you dispute the bill and I would try to take the matter up with trading standards and get free advice from the citizens advice bureau. Keep written records of everything that was said and done.


Connecting new GFCI in the middle of a circuit run

Any branch of the circuit whose hot and neutral are plugged into the "Load" terminals, will be protected from that GFCI.
You are required to label those outlets "GFCI Protected" (NEC 110.3(B) and 8(C) of instructions).  Use any labeling method that isn't handwritten.  Also mark "No Equipment Ground" if applicable (NEC 406.4(D)2).
You can attach any number of branches to the "Load" terminals.  If you exceed the number of provided lugs, you can simply pigtail.
"Push-in" aka "Back-stabs" are generally not seen on UL-listed GFCI devices; I suspect that's a UL requirement.  Instead they have "screw-and-clamp" or "insert wires; tighten screw to clamp" terminals.  A bit tricky and you have to clamp HARD, but very nice when you get the hang of it.
If you have a GFCI that does have back-stabs, search it very closely for a UL, CSA or ETL mark with 6-8 digit file number.  If you don't see that, it is a knockoff/counterfeit device (which would defeat the purpose of installing a safety device, obviously). Counterfeits are generally not seen in competent retail shops; 99% of them come from mail-order, and the #1 offender is the Amazon Marketplace, which is eBay-tier junk mostly.


Will a magnetic flashlight attached to a metal junction box cause problems?

Short answer: No.

Long answer: Nnnooooooo.

Serious answer: A permanent magnet, even one a thousand times stronger than the one holding your flashlight in place, placed near your home wiring but not moving has no effect on the circuit at all. A permanent magnet as small as the one on your flashlight, when moved around near your home wiring (eg. when you take the flashlight and put it back), will theoretically generate tiny surges of current in the wires. In order to measure those surges you would have to be a very careful physicist.

A magnet moved around near a metal junction box will generate tiny surges of current in the box walls. In order to measure those surges you would have to be a very careful physicist with pernicious insomnia. Theoretically a tiny amount of magnetic influence makes its way into the interior of the junction box, via screw holes etc. In order to measure those surges you would have to be a very careful physicist who is going through a bad divorce and expects to never sleep again.

All this is of no practical consequence. Any magnet you would have around the house cannot interfere with your domestic electric supply.


Putting TV cables inside a plasterboard wall cavity - Is my plan reasonable?

I see no real reason to add in the new stud box to allow for the TV signal cables to have their own cavity. You should be able to simply mount the flange on oneside of the backbox to the stud and use some type of toggle anchor to simply attach the other flange of the box to the drywall. Using this technique you should be able to simply cut two holes in the existing plaster board without having to remove and replace a large amount of material.

I do see two concerns though:

It is not up to standard electrical codes to string TV power cords or extension cords up through a wall cavity like you can do with low voltage signal cables. You really should plan to install separate permanent in-wall mains wiring from the existing power outlet up to a new electrical box and outlet that you locate behind the TV.
From your pictures it looks like the TV mount that you are planning to use is one that mounts to only one stud. If that mount is an articulated arm type designed to allow the TV to fold out from the wall then I would strongly suggest that you look for another type of mount that installs across multiple studs. If the stud locations are not in a good location then face that wall section with 3/4 inch thick plywood that does span two to three studs and mount the bracket to that plywood.


What does a pressure regulator look like?

If you have a faucet with a hose bibb on it, a faucet like those used in a laundry tub, you could go to a big box store or hardware store and purchase a threaded on pressure gauge to check the existing water pressure. I have one and use it a couple times a year to check my in-coming pressure. This will let you know just what the pressure is.
Yes, that looks like a simple water regulating valve that adjusts the in-coming water pressure. Adjustments of the pressure higher or lower are with a screw driver.


I will try to figure out your situation. You have only one door that has a good acceptable gap at the top and bottom, but a huge gap in the center. You have new door leaves you are installing, presuming the edges are still factory straight, or like factory straight, if you had to trim on the door to get it to fit the original jambs.. If the door has a 3rd hinge, the hinge in the easiest case, but not the best case, is just shimmed to meet the edge of the door leaf. It will be unsightly, but will work. The best case, would be to remove the trim at least on the hinge side of the jamb to get access to the shims, set the door in place, Do not install the pin in the middle hinge and shim the jamb over to get the barrel of the center hinge to line up, drop the pin in and reset the trim.

11-5-2015 edit to address the first comment below

Yes, to me there is a science, perhaps a sequence is a good term too, either way it will give repeatable results. In existing door jambs, check the jambs in all fashions, plumb, straight, parallel, square at top. If the hinges are not in line, they MUST be to get good results. You can simply use a straight edge for this. No, it must not necessarily be plumb, but it should be close, ideally with in a 1/4" so it is not a self closing or opening door. To shim the hinge, I prefer NOT to shim under the whole hinge, just at the edge of the jamb. This angling of the hinge to get the pins to line up will allow one edge of the hinge to stay engaged fully into the original mortise. Which I think, helps keep the hinge looking proper in it place, as much as possible. Shimming in this fashion helps eliminate another problem of "hinge bind".

As a note, hinges should not be set 1/32" below the face of the jamb, it should be just the opposite, 1/32" proud of the jamb, this also helps eliminate hinge bind. When set this helps give a slight more room for the door at the jamb. When the hinges are inset, closes the gap smaller and perhaps may allow the door leaf to hit the jamb before it is closed fully at the hinge side (hinge bind). The hinge when set the way I suggest also allows for the painter to have an edge to follow when cutting in around the hinges, aiding in a neater paint job.

After the jamb is understood and the pins are inline, cut the door leaf to size if needed. Scribing the top to match the head jamb so the gap is even. Cut the sides if needed to get the slab to fit in the opening with the hinges folded into the jamb. This fitment MUST be snug, not tight. When the hinges are cut into the side of the door, the gap at the slam side will be created.

Set your other hardware.


I'd use hurricane ties, they're intended more to hold things down than hold things up but I'm sure they'd work.

A pair of these:

Or one of these:


How do I seal overlapping sections of flashing around the perimeter of my house?

The Z flashing is there to prevent water from creating water damage as you have noticed. The flashing is usually overlapped and that is sufficient unless in a windy area then a very small bead of calk between the overlapped flashing can be used but is not needed when properly installed. When I used to build homes on the west coast we would lap the flashing with the west most flashing on top so that driving rain would not be pushed under the overlap even if lapped in the opposite the metal to metal contact should be enough with good siding. There were some siding products "LP composite" that even with proper flashing failed (big class action lawsuits). I don't think brazing will do much more than proper lapping.


Multipoint water heater using real 1/2" pipe

That would depend a great deal on what the internal passages of the particular device are.
If they are tightly restricted to control water flow and permit adequate contact time for heating, less restrictive piping to and fro will make almost no difference. You can assume this is likely the case if the sort of hoses used are either supplied with the heater or specified by the maker of the heater, which might be the first thing you'll want to check.
If they are not particularly restricted, water would flow faster/have less pressure drop, but as a result either the heater will consume more energy as it will be heating more water, or the water will not get as hot if flow is faster than what the heater can fully heat with faster flow.


That appears to be a concealed overhead door stop. You might have to search around a bit to find the right style and size - if you know the manufacturer of the door you can try there to see if they sell replacement parts.


Ways to add proper ventilation to attic with ridge vent on roof?

I would add soffit vents. If it's wood soffit it's fairly easy to cut the holes with a small rotary saw or an oscillating multi tool. Then screw on prefab vents from any outlet supply. If it's aluminum soffit I've replaced solid panels with vented also and you could space them out and put in as only as many as desired. If it's aluminum fascia on front then removing the fascia first makes removing and reinstalling panels is a snap. Just first remove the aluminum fascia (on front) by pulling the bottom nails with pliers. I always like to screw the alum fascia back on with small stainless Phillips screws.

But if it's wood fascia that usually hangs down past the soffit in front, it becomes more problematic. I don't want to try and explain that to you other than give you a heads up that application can be more of a problem replacing alum soffit panels.

Oh and if the gable vents are not leaking in blowing rain, just leave them, they will just give more top level air escape. I see no need to seal up the gable vent unless you see evidence of gable vents taking in water in a blowing rain (some do, some don't) If that is not a previous problem then just leave them. The will have no negative effect on ventilation in any option scenario.


I don't know why this question is here as it's not a DIY process, but I'll answer anyway.

Three phase power (208/120 or 480/277) is divided by the square root of 3 and by the higher voltage. The square root of 3 is used because of the adjustment between phases.

Single phase power is completely different, and easier. You just divide by the higher voltage, 240. This is because 120 is not the voltage on the panel; 120 is simply a subdivision because of the neutral.


I don't know what it's called, but I know how they are made. It's a roll of spring steel,  about 3 layers, unrolled, and then rolled from both ends. Your diagram was close, but not quite right.


Think of the rule a different way.

Assume appliances have 6 foot long cords.  It must be possible to place an appliance anywhere along the wall, cord hugging the wall, without needing an extension cord.  You can't drape extension cords across thresholds or doorways. Wall sections narrower than 2' are exempt.


There are a couple of simple solutions. One would be a simple PVC raintight junction box. You would drill holes for the 2 conduits coming in and one in the back for entering the home. Use the right sized male adapters.  Be sure to caulk where it enters the home, esp. if subject to weather. If subject to severe weather you might look into using rain tight fittings (yeah, I know, nothings "really" rain tight, but we do our best).  You could also use an entrance ell (tee type) that has can accomodate 3 conduits.


Can a portable generator power multiple circuits in a house?

The key is that you want to get everything out from one circuit on the generator and into your house (interlock, subpanel, etc.) Fortunately, you have a 240V/50A outlet - that will do the trick. That's enough to use the full output of the generator and to power most of a house - practically speaking, if you are careful with the big loads (electric water heater, air conditioner, electric dryer, electric oven) you can run your whole house with one of these.
Post specifics about your home's breaker panel and the pros will tell you exactly what to do.


How to handle expansion of wood when attaching a bed to the walls of a room

Wood expansion is mostly an issue across the grain, and can almost always be ignored when considering movement with the grain (your 2m dimension). See this post on woodworking for some more details.

Assuming you're using 1x4 material as in the linked question, and assuming you get plain-sawn stock and not quarter-sawn, the most movement will be along the 4" (well, actually 3.5") direction - swelling to e.g. 3.75" and shrinking to 3.25"* . You may see some slight movement along the 1" (actual 3/4") direction, but that might swell to e.g., 25/32" and shrink to 23/32"* .

Note that if you air condition the space, the actual movement will be much less than if the space were not conditioned, or if the piece were outside.

*These numbers are examples and may not be indicative of actual movement.


What tool for easily cutting cardboard is child-safe?

[Please see the revised and expanded version of this answer at Parenting Stack Exchange.]

When I was the age to be cutting holes in cardboard boxes for fun, the tool I had was a serrated knife — I think it was sold as a very cheap steak knife. The blade was, basically as dull as a letter opener (and somewhat flexible), but the serrations made it quite effective at cutting cardboard like a saw, either neatly or roughly depending on the force applied. It did have an end pointy enough to require some care, but that was never a problem that I recall.

It also makes a great noise when cutting a large panel, especially the side of a box, as the cardboard vibrates.

I don't have any specific product recommendations as this was a few decades ago.


These clips are from an individual manufacturer and are not a common hardware item. You could contact the drawer-slide manufacturer, who might provide a clip gratis. If that fails, or you wish to experiment, you could fabricate a replacement from springy plastic or even a metal strip cut from a food can (smooth edges to avoid cuts), since you have the other clips as models.


What valve should I use for water control flow after upgrading to thermostatic valve?

If that's 1/2"npt on the valve, then they make flow control valves for showerheads that should fit. Usually around $10.

Just be careful, some are just on/off, and they look identical. Best to check with an experienced sales rep or read the back of you don't trust them.


"Quick & dirty" finish for a concrete subfloor

look cool and last for a couple of years

I'd also suggest concrete stain.

The catch with both staining and painting, of course, is that you need to find the stable surface.

We had a floor that was covered in tile mastic. To remove it, we used this soy based mastic remover. If you contact them, they can send a sample to see if it works for your particular glue. It smells funny, but isn't toxic.

You pour it on, let it sit, and it eventually liquifies the mastic. You then squeegee + wetvac it all up, then give it a quick wash with water to get ready for staining.

Acid staining is fairly easy. You add the stain to a sprayer (a manual-pump garden sprayer works well) and just spray it all over the place. Let it sit for a while. Then you pour a neutralizer on it and as before, squeegee/wetvac it all up.

As a final step you can apply a roll-on sealer of some sort.

I think it's a great look and relatively painless (it's a bit tedious, but not back-breaking work).

Barring all of that, I'd perhaps just opt for a cheap floating laminate floor. Theres so much variety now with laminates and they should last a couple of years.


Can I adjust the temperature of the water in my radiators?

Boilers typically have a aquastat, high limit, low limit in one of several configurations.

This is an all in one unit specific to oil.

www.inspectopedia.com

Most aquastats look something like this on the outside

www.ebay.com

If you have conventional radiators high limit set to 150 max is common, convectors you can go to 180. It's usually best to run as low temp as possible but with oil it's very important to maintain a minimum chimney(stack) temperature. Low return temperatures can cause acid in the chimney. Now baseboard rads are split between the two types.

This is a conventional and beautiful cast iron radiator

www.allaboutrads.co.uk

This is the inside of a fin tube convector

www.inspectopedia.com

If your baseboard rads are copper tube fin type like the convector image, you can go up to 180. If they are cast iron you should keep the temperature lower because the surface gets very hot to the touch.

If you have any pictures of the controls attached to the system they would be helpful. Just keep in mind, oil is finicky and needs yearly service by a reputable technician.


how to strongly secure a wire over a couch frame to stretch seat spring webbing

I would probably drill holes through the piping and screw/bolt it directly to the frame. They won't budge if fastened properly with screws. I guess I would glue it as well...

Or how about some straps like these on both sides of each pipe:


Are conduits run along floors code permitted?

Shouldn't be a problem. If the garage has a habit of filling with water, you'll need to use conduit and conductors rated for wet locations. Otherwise I can't think of any problems.

You'll have to use conduit that can be subject to physical damage.

To be sure, contact your local building department.


Pressure Washer shoots black smoke from exhaust and then will not start

I think the fuel to air ratio is to high (rich)... the engine needs more air. Look to see if you have a choke on the engine and after letting it warm up for a minute, make sure to switch it to run. If the choke is not the issue, then you (probably) need to change the air filter.

If that doesn't do it, then you may have a problem with the carburator. Don't leave gas in the engine over winter... it causes various problems, including corroding plastic parts- which might lead to gunk in the carburator or worse.


Mysterious 40v multimeter reading on AC appliance chassis (US 120v)

If the projector has a metal case then it should be grounded.  Buy a new three wire appliance cord and secure the green wire to the case.  Make sure it is always plugged into a grounded receptacle.  Then you can test the current draw on the ground wire.  (use a clamp type meter) This will tell you if you really have a problem. The tests you site mean little or nothing.


Do they make wireless safety sensors for garage door openers?

I've never seen them. The battery maintenance would be a hassle anyway.

Route and secure your wires appropriately to protect them, and build wood or metal guards around the sensor area to prevent careless people from banging into them. A simple block alongside the unit should do unless your home is populated by maniacs.


Sometimes the breaker boxes will have a large Main Disconnect switch separated from the others.  If so, it should disconnect all power, including to your secondary breaker box.

Even if you have a main disconnect, you can never be sure how it was wired.  So, if you do have one, use your meter to make sure that the feeds to the secondary breaker box are, in fact, unenergized, before you start working on it!

Good luck :)


What is the likelihood of asbestos in this plaster?

if its from the 50's the chances are very high. however, it is region specific often.  if you are located in the eastern us or canada, there is a very good chance of it.  if you are worried about it, you can remove a small sample and take it to a local health lab or college chemistry lab and have it tested.


Is there any corelation between housing and lamp data?

Here's a quick breakdown of the most common residential lamps here in the US.

"A" lamps are mostly used in table lamps or maybe outside wall fixtures.  If the lamp is a 60A19 then it is 60 watts, "A" shaped and is 19/8 wide, or 2-1/8 inch.  Divide the number after the style by 8 and you will get the width.
"R" or "BR"  lamps are reflector lamps, thin glass.  If the lamps is a 75R30FL then it is a 75 watt "R" style, 30/8 wide or 3-3/4 inches.
"Par" lamps or Parabolic aluminized reflectors is a hard glass reflector lamp, where the lens of the lamp is a separate he piece from the rest of the lamp but not removable.  Because of the different type of lenses this style offers more directional control of the beam spread.  Everything measures up the same as the other lamps, the difference is that the part number will usually give you the degree of the beam spread like a 50PAR20/HAL/NFL30 except the HAL is halogen or capsylite, the NFL is narrow flood and the 30 is the 30 degree beam spread.

I cannot answer the question about the thermocouple that protects the fixture from over heating.  I don't know what my attic temperature is, mostly because in the summer time the ambient outside temperature floats between 110 and 120 most of the day and about 2 months of night time temperatures in the high 90's at midnight.  It's the same can as what you buy.


How to attach two pieces of carpets in a reliable way?

The trade name for it is... wait for it... carpet tape.

This is a roll of 4" Carpet Seam Tape courtesy of wholesaletape.com and while although:

  This pressure sensitive tape applies quick and easy without the need of a "step on" hot iron. Made of a 42lb natural kraft paper with a fiberglass and cotton reinforced scrim it can join most carpet and wood surfaces.

I'd have to assume that most of the old carpets I've pulled out were hot ironed because it was nearly impossible to tear this stuff (it looked exactly like this), but maybe this works just as well.


Framing basement ceiling with concrete slab

Install a suspended ceiling.
attach eye anchors to the masonry and use wires to suport the channel which supports the drywall
pack your batts above the channels then attach the rigid foam and the drywall using screws.


How can I securely hang a very heavy object on wall made of hollow bricks?

There is a class of anchors called "hollow wall anchors".  Most of the time these are used for sheetrock or plaster walls so people don't think about them when it comes to brick, but many of them will work in hollow bricks.  There are many types and should be available at any home store.

Sample toggle bolt

The challenge will be making sure you hit a "hole" in the brick.  There are different anchors for hollow bricks and for solid bricks, so it probably make sense to have both on hand.  If you drill a hole and hit a solid portion of brick, use the solid anchor.  If you hit a hole, use the hollow anchor.

When hanging a large item like a blackboard, you may be able to adjust your hole spacing to make sure you always hit a hollow area.


Is it safe to remove a plug, and wire a light fitting into the wall?

Comments converted to answer.

If the manufacturer says they need a fuse, then I'd probably install a fuse. Just install a 5A fuse before the transformer, and make sure it's accessible in some way.

The light circuit is probably on a fuse/breaker at the service panel, but since you are using a transformer to step down to low voltage a fuse may be required to protect the transformer and low voltage wiring. The fuse/breaker in the main panel will probably be 15-20A; since it's designed to protect a normal line voltage lighting circuit, so you'll need another 5A fuse before the step down transformer to protect the transformer and everything downstream from it.


Is blown-in insulation appropriate for on the foundation block in a crawlspace?

Since it's vented outside, the humidity level in the crawlspace is generally going to be equal to the humidity level outside. You should not have any vapor barrier on the walls, as this will actually prevent drying and hold the moisture in (though because it's vented, it will still eventually equalize).

What you should have though, is a vapor barrier and insulation on the roof of the crawlspace, before the subfloor of the floor above. This is an area where cold (air in the crawlspace) meets hot (from the conditioned room above), and so there needs to be a thermal break (insulation) and a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation.

I suspect the insulation in the crawlspace itself is just to help slow the temperature changes in the crawlspace, because that's about all it's doing. Considering it's open to the outside, it will eventually get to the outside temperature. Expecting it to add any insulation value to your living space is about the same as leaving your front door wide open and expecting the insulation in the rest of your house to keep you warm.


18 inch lag screw protruding from stud supporting 20lbs

I would add a collar with a set screw on each side of the wheel bearing.
These come in many sizes and finishes to match your project. You may need an additional brace to prevent the shaft from sagging.


Clear polystyrene appears to be a type of plastic, so I would say a wood drill bit should work.  However, be careful about heat - you dont want to melt it.  Take a break to let the bit cool if its starts getting hot.


Oven broiler has stopped working, but broiler element seems fine

You have lost 1 leg of the 240v supply.
If you disconnected 1 of the leads there would be 0 or 120 in both places.
If both legs of the 240 are switched by a relay one of the contact sets have failed. Or a bad connection. Since bake works I would be tracing the circuit to the control  relay. The element shorting may have damaged the relay and now it has failed would be my guess.

If you have access to the board you may find the right one by cycling and finding the relay that clicks , if you can find a schematic the broil relay will probably be labeled. These Relays are usually under ~15.00 and will usually have 6 connections to the pc board 2 for control 2 hot in and 2 hot out, there may be an extra set that is not used but these cost more so it will probably be just 6.

Most of the time they are encased in black or white plastic once you verify that is the problem unsoldering and replacing the relay will make it just like new.


These are indeed very rare.  And old.  Google image search kept showing old radio sets.

After a lengthy search I found one source that should do the trick for you.

Microtech Medium Domed Tri-Wing Wrench Tool Bit (bladehq.com)


Can both a 240V power supply and a 120V power supply, coming from a sauna heater's single power unit, go to the same outbuilding?

You'll need to run two conduits
The good news is that mixing 120 and 240V circuits in the same conduit is fine, and each of the mains circuits (light, aux, heater) in the mains conduit would be considered a "different use" for the purposes of NEC 225.30(D) since they're separately switched, so you can run all three mains circuits from the main building to the outbuilding instead of putting the power unit at the outbuilding.  You should be able to run the A1/A2 (thermal protector) wires in this conduit as well, since they also run to the heater itself alongside the other mains wiring.
However, you'll need to run the temperature sensor cable in a separate conduit; I called Finlandia Sauna tech support, and they insisted that the temp sensor cable be separated from mains wiring, so I doubt the insulation on it is rated for running alongside mains, and the temperature sensor's housing may not be mains-legal either.


Can I warm up "cold patch" in a microwave?

Microwaves work by exciting the molecules in liquids that then trasfer their heat into surrounding materials. To be safe, "microwavable" products have water in them so that the water molecules are what heats up. If you use a product not designed for this, you could end up volatizing (vaporizing) VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) that are not only harmful, but potentially FLAMMABLE!


Yes it is. the black screw is the common terminal which is hooked up to your always hot, the black wire which is hooked up to the black wire from your old switch. The black wire connected to your red wire from the switch would go to the yellow screw and the ground wire to the green screw.
Good job taking pictures before disconnecting everything and then asking how to put it all back together


How and when to finish a Cedar or redwood fence?

Even if you treat before install and get all sides, later down you will have to just treat the visible portion, unless you plan to pull the fence down and retreat then put back up....in my opinion, too much work.


Any obvious problems with this DIY home automation?

I've been doing something similar for the past couple of months. At present the setup only extends to my workshop (for testing). Currently I am using a single UNO for control which reads various sensor states, including light level and temperature/humidity, plus some door (reed relay) and IR movement sensors. The arduino reads the state and sends messages to some software ( currently Python 2.7 under Ubuntu) over UDP which then does the processing that is required and sends control commands back to the Arduino, again over UDP. The processing currently amounts to checking the internal light sensors and switching on the lights if necessary. Ultimately I want to migrate all my lighting to 12v LED so I can run off stored solar, but at present I am using a system similar to yours in that the relays are in series with the power switch for the lights, normally closed, so that if the control circuitry fails the light switches should operate as normal.
I also have some external IR sensors and the same system activates an external security light, this time with a normally open relay.
I consider using the normally closed relays as essential for the main lights, otherwise the domestic management will kick off once the system is rolled out to the rest of the house.
I want to use LEDS because of their dimmable nature when using the PWM enabled pins of the Arduino, this will then enable a nice low level of light for those nocturnal toilet trips, all automatically of course.
I have just taken delivery of a Mega 2560 which will provide a lot more IO. Like yourself I envisage having separate Arduino's for input and output.
I am developing the control system in python, with the intention of migrating it to raspberry PI once development has finished. This will allow me to run it all an enclosure with a status screen hooked up to the composite video. I currently have  a limited status screen running on the PC, which allows me to control the brightness of LED panels and GU16 bulbs.
I have configured the arduino so it will accept commands from any device on the network, so I can set up some control from the android devices I have around the house.
I also have a fully working zoneminder installation, but had not considered using it to trigger anything as yet, but then again I don't have any internal cameras on that, just external.
I did consider thermal imaging, as you suggested, but I think cost is a major issues (would need to come in at below $100 Australian, per room to be feasible for me), so I'm persevering with low cost IR sensors (about $2 each from China).
My Arduino code is not best but I am more than willing to share it.
It is currently set up to monitor the various sensors in a constant loop, and also listens for a 3byte UDP string in the form of 410 (4 is light 4, 1 is for on, the last digit is used for a brightness level for the LED)

I do agree with the comment about the resale values of the house, but I'm not planning to move anytime in the foreseeable future. Your needs may be different.

The python code also does some DPMS control of the monitors in the workshop. Currently they are put to standby after 10 minutes of no workshop movement.
I am in the process of setting up some power sockets that are switched in the same way as the lights, so the system can turn off things like my soldering iron and amplifiers that I frequently forget to leave on.

Let my know if I can be of any help with your project. It sounds great. Good luck

John


How can I monitor water usage for just my portion of a shared property?

You will want to be very careful about installing and changing things on the property since you are not the property owner. If it comes down to needing to have individual water meters at each unit the best thing would be to work out an agreement with the owner to switch over to actual usage billing.

Part of the negotiation process could be agreement that the various tenants will chip for part of the cost of the meters.


How can I make a rubber cover for my hammer?

A rubber crutch tip could work. They come in different sizes. I bet you can find one that will fit nicely.