If your device is drawing too much power, and is causing the breaker to trip. It means the device is too large for the circuit, and the breaker is doing the job it was designed to do.  Making an "automatic breaker turner on-er" is not likely the best solution.
There's two possibilities for why you'd trip the thermal protection of a circuit breaker. If the breaker is faulty, it could be tripping at a lower current than it is designed to trip at. In this case, the solution is to replace the breaker.  If the breaker is not faulty, it means that your device is drawing a sufficient amount of current, for long enough to trip the breaker.  If this is the case, then your circuit is likely undersized.
If your device is tripping the magnetic protection of the circuit breaker, there's a larger problem with the circuit and/or device.  The magnetic protection of a circuit breaker should not kick in, unless the circuit is drawing many times the rated current (think short-circuit).  If this is the case, you likely have a faulty device and/or wiring.
If your device is tripping the GFCI or AFCI protection of the breaker, then you'll have to investigate that further.  If the device is connected to a surge protector, the normal functioning of the surge suppressor may cause a GFCI device to trip.
You'll likely want to start by monitoring the system to determine the normal current draw, as well as the peak current draw.  From there, you can decide how to proceed. Without knowing the actual current draw, or why the breaker is tripping. There's not much you can do to remedy the situation.
It's not likely that an "automatic breaker turner on-er" exists, or ever would exist.  What if there was a major problem causing the breaker to trip, and you continually remotely reset it?  You're not there, so you can't see that a couple wires came loose and are laying in a pool of gasoline. You keep resetting the breaker, which causes an arc between the gasoline soaked wires. You'll probably continue to try and reset the breaker, as your house burns to the ground. </Dramatization>

It's not clear to me whether or not this is a single device, or multiple devices. Dividing the load across multiple individual 20 ampere circuits, might be a solution. This is much more straight forward if you're powering multiple devices, though is not impossible if it's a single device.

NOTES:
Reclosers
While reclosers do exist, they are only used on the distribution side of the electrical system. They are not available for residential systems, for the reasons mentioned above.
Circuit breaker thermal protection
The thermal protection device within a circuit breaker is quite basic, yet also quite effective.  It simply opens the circuit when it gets too hot, which is hopefully before the branch circuit wires are burning.  It makes no difference what type of load is connected, if the wires are getting too hot, the thermal protection opens the circuit.
This is the reason why conductor size matters. If you have 12 AWG copper conductors connected to a 20 ampere breaker, the thermal protection will open before the wires are burning (as long as the breaker is functioning properly).  If you had smaller wire connected to the 20 ampere breaker, there's a possibility that the wire could be on fire before the thermal protection kicks in.


Your math looks right on. I couldn't verify the concrete but it looked pretty similar to other stuff I've used.
The 12" Sonotube seems small for a 6x6 post. Their site recommends three time the post width so that would mean an 18" Sonotube. you might want to look into that. that means you have to do your calculations for concrete over again.. lol


If you have threaded iron gas pipe coming into the house, expect a MUCH MUCH larger job that it looks like if you do that - you have to start at the loose end of that pipe and back every joint out, one at a time, until you get to the siding.

The typical way of handling that situation with solid siding (clapboards, shakes, etc) is to cut a notch in the siding below the pipe hole, fit that notch around the pipe, and backfill the notch with the cut-out piece and glue/silicone.

If vinyl siding, don't remove a whole notch, just slit the siding below the pipe hole, twist to fit around the pipe, then slip another smallish scrap of siding in from behind (silicone optional) to hold the slit closed. It helps a LOT if the slit isn't dead centered on the pipe hole, but rather at either horizontal edge of the hole.

By all means, leave that pipe right where it is.


Suggestions for leg support and edge guard for countertop

The stuff for the green bit is edge banding. You can also use thin strips of the laminate that the counter is topped with if you can get it, or have some stashed, so that it matches better.

The usual approach to the blue bit is to simply put a sheet of plywood there, parallel to the washer/dryer beside it - or just put a cabinet there, rather than having an open hole.

A cleat is screwed to both the countertop and the vertical plywood to make the joint.


How can I remove a plank from the middle of the field?

If you really want to try to save the plank, BMitch's instructions for removal are spot on but instead of a circular saw, get yourself one of these babies:

The square blade shown here will give you clean end cuts, and for your long run, this blade will be your friend:

You'll get very straight, TIGHT cut lines along the seams, be practically invisible when all is back in place.


is this video representative of good technique for working with gas pipe

Ok I watched the video, union's usually have a valve in front of them.  I am not sure what that gained other than showing the proper way to support the pipe (2 wrenches) to prevent the one side from unscrewing, did he over tighten it looked fine to me, as far as the dope he used I could not see if that was gas rated.
Can you use two much dope? Not really it is just a waste of $ and did you notice he wiped off most of the excess. I will also put my shutoff valve before the drip leg , the pipe hanging down and capped close to the point of use.
The drip leg is There to catch debris and moisture that is a really short one but some places don’t have lots of issues.  Being able to shut off the gas and clean the drip leg was a big deal at my last home we had a high moisture content due to our location on the line.
That video looked appropriate to me other than the union not having a shutoff and the same with the drip leg.


What do you call the rubber strip attached to cupboard door?

I would probably call it a back plate, a span strip or a draft blocker.

I would probably be wrong, but that's what I would call them.  I've never shopped for one on their own, I usually fabricate such things out of strips of hobby wood.


What is the best way to seal a French drain board due to high levels of radon?

If the French drain is between your basement slab and the exterior walls, it may be the source of most of your radon. Sounds like a small suction from the drain sump to the outside is a good plan. A small fan with its own exhaust pipe shouldn't be a problem for the water heater or furnace but a CO detector is never bad for closed rooms with gas appliances.


You might try one of these, if it could fit. They're pretty cheap as well and basically like a double sided "door snake".

Does the storm door itself have a sweep along the bottom? We bought an old house recently that has original doors to the outside. The storm door that the past owners installed works great as it has a sweep that 'scrapes' along the concrete outside until it seals in. If it's open the wind just blows around every crack of the door, but when it's closed you can't really feel anything.


Had to shim my double top plate -- how should I secure the trusses?

Does the sheathing connect to the top plate securely? If not, because of the shims, you will need to run screws from below through the lower top plate. You could use long hurricane clips instead.

Photo courtesy HD Supply

I have seen long screws run through both plates from below, just like you have from the top, just run them in.


Why is there a vent on the ductwork coming right from the furnace?

Furnace installers and/or home owners will put a register in the duct work to provide some heat in the winter to that area. The number of these supply registers is determined by the typical use and desired temperature of this area. I recommend that all basements should have at least 2 supply registers and 1 return register in the basement/equipment area just to keep that area slightly warm and the air fresh. If you are going to finish that area to be used as living space, then more supply and returns will be needed. Also you may want to close the supply registers in the summer when using the A/C since cold air is heavy and will move to the lowest level in the house. Keeping the register you originally inquired about either open or closed would be your choice.


Our backsplash tile has raised oval design a how do we work around electrical outlets?

Generally finish material runs just short of the edge of the box. There are box extenders to bring the box level with the surface of the finish material.

Cut tile edges are almost always a bit rough. To have them as a visible edge is problematic. Plates overlapping tile edges is almost always better.


How do I clean cooking oil off a steel fence?

Knowing that you don't mind the rust, I'd go at it the same way you would dirty dishes soiled with the same thing--dish detergent and water. A little scrubbing with a nylon brush shouldn't damage the surface, and the rust will return shortly.


Contractor is installing a vinyl fence and posts but is not using any water with concrete. Is he doing it right?

I put some posts into concrete - made a dry mix and tamped it down.

Next day it was just about done - the mix absorbed moisture from the surrounding soil and was fine.

If you need a really smooth top surface then adding a wetter screed is a possibility.


I don't know why red and black would be tied together in the ceiling box.  It should not be.   The two blacks in the ceiling box should connect to each other only, and the red should be capped off.

Connect the lamp's white wire(s) as you had them, and connect the lamp's black wires to the red with an additional wire-nut.  That should do it.


How to reach outside light high above sloped cellar door?

source
That's right.

Rope up and over the house.  Throw a ball with a string and use it to pull the rope over the top.

Pull it over until the knots you have placed to facilitate climbing up are in the right position.  Secure it well on the far side of the house.

2a.  If throwing rope over house does not work after many tries, hang rope out of window.

Put on your $29 harness and climb up there.  Having someone hold the bottom of the rope steady will help.  Promise her a grilled burger meal.  After you survive.

When you get to the right knot, clip carabiner on harness to ring you have tied onto topmost knot.

Did you remember to turn off the circuit breaker?

Send assistant to turn off circuit breaker.  Promise her expensive wine when you don't die.

Change socket.  Send assistant to turn on fuse and make sure it works.  Promise brownies.

Give decorative pipe a pat for Willk.

Try to climb down.

Unhook carabiner.  Climb down.  Love life!  Start grill.


Inspector says that split bolts shouldn't be used on live connections. Right or wrong?

If you are discontent with the quality of wire nuts, you can go to a proper splice block.   These are my go-to for anything larger than 6 AWG.

Source

The wires are inserted in the side, then they are tightened down from the top holes with hex keys to a specified torque.   The holes where the hex keys go in are then capped.  If the wires are near the largest size the block permits, there is nothing exposed at all.   The quality of the connection is exceptional.


Would a second layer of housewrap cause problems?

There is no problem with doing this. Housewrap is "breathable" by design so you won't trap moisture anywhere. You could build a wall with ten layers of housewrap and it would be more durable, not less.

Regardless of how many layers you have, it's critically important to make sure your windows and doors are properly flashed to the outermost layer slash the one with the most integrity. When the installers complete this work, don't let them get away without re-flashing all your windows and doors to the new layer of housewrap.


Best method to level 1x3 strapping to ceiling joists on a slope?

This is less hard than you think. Last one I did was ~10x20, and it took about 4 hours. A laser is extremely helpful for this task, though I suppose you could do it with string and a bubble stick. (It is, however, too early in the morning for me to think my way through all that, so my instructions have frikkin' laser beams.)

Cross-strap the ceiling 16" OC with one small, smooth (like, 15g, 2" is good -- no spiral or ring shank) nail per joist intersection. Plan ahead for sheets of drywall.

Find your lowest spot. This is where everything is coming down to. Make a story stick (a couple of inches shorter than your low spot) and push it up to the low spot. Mark the laser location on the stick. (Mark the stick with "this way up" if you're having one of those days.)

Now, for every intersection, tap the strapping down so that your story stick mark matches the laser. Shim as you go, but don't put final nails/screws through yet.

Once the whole room is done, doublecheck with the story stick. You can be as precise as you want, but if you had, say, cabinetry and crown, then you'd want to be super accurate in those areas.

Snug the shims and nail or screw everything off. If you don't nail through the shims, you can make micro-adjustments afterwards. I've found that 2 nails per junction of 2-1/2" non-smooth sheathing nails are perfectly adequate to hold up the strapping and rock. Doublecheck if you want.

Slight ps, I use 1x4 to give a bit more wiggle room and allow for not-exactly-straight-stock. The upcharge is nominal.

Double ps, this assumes a ceiling only slightly out of level -- up to 1". On second read, I'm thinking there's a possibility that you're dealing with a very sloped ceiling that you're trying to flatten. ("Level" might have confused me, as it's a term with very specific meaning in my world.) If so, do all the cross-strapping and light nailing, then use a web of string to bring all the junctions to the right point.


What is the most durable ferrous metal pipe against heat?

Cast iron. Which is conveniently already in the configuration you need at your local scrap yard: old radiators. That is, assuming this doesn't have to be potable.

Other than that I'd guess we're talking about some expensive exotic steel you probably can't wield very easily anyway, like lab equipment.

I'd like to think that regular old black pipe would stand up to this, especially if you could keep the fittings out of the flames and you mount it allowing for expansion.

However and whatever you build it out of, I'd test a mock-up before you start making endless loops only to find it pops your wields or the fittings. It's not the pipe walls, it's the joints. As long as they aren't subject to physical damage, your no where near hot enough to damage the metal.

Also... if you ever do get the pipes hot enough to melt with water inside them, something has blown up. What are we building here and where's the safety valve(s)? ;)


No AC. I have a few HVAC troubleshooting questions

You had (maybe sub-optimal) working air, so the holes (unless new) are probably not the primary cause.  I imagine your evaporator coil (the coil inside the interior air handling unit) has frozen over.

This typically happens when the airflow over it is restricted, but it can happen when the refrigerant has leaked out of the system.  Air restriction prevents warm air from heating the coil, which will eventually freeze the humidity out of the air creating an insulating block of ice.  Low refrigerant levels super cool the coil creating the same freezing over.

So, replace (or temporarily remove) the dirty air filter.  Open all the vents.  Turn your AC off for a long enough period of time to melt the ice (typically 4 to 5 hours, but sometimes less).  Then turn the unit on.  If airflow is restored, you know the symptom of your problem.

If you don't freeze up again, it was likely an airflow problem you just fixed with the new air filter and by opening the vents.  Occasionally the interior fan is not turning on, so opening the interior unit is a good idea for visual inspection.

If air handling seems fine and it freezes up again, call a professional to find the leak in your system, have the leak repaired and then get your system recharged with refrigerant.  Many pros like to charge the system and run; but, refrigerant doesn't degrade or get "used up".  If you're low, there's a leak.  Get them to find and fix it now or risk calls and extra strain on your system (which could shorten the life of your system).

Opening the unit involves removing the tape around the panel (it is typically metal duct work tape, so use gloves to avoid cutting your hands).  The tape only seals the unit for air tightness.  There are screws on the panel.  When done, re-tape with metal tape for air tightness.

Keep in mind that the root cause is sometimes electrical.  If so, you'll notice the interior fan not is not turning on.  There are additional circuit breakers on the air handling unit, as well as the possibility of burnt out control circuitry, corroded / disconnected wiring, etc.  It is a good idea to turn the breakers off and on just to assure it's not the cause.

I'd fix the duct work, but to save you money on your AC bill, it's not a likely root cause.


Need help identifying window manufacturer

If there are no redeemable markings or stickers, you may need to rely on the physical appearance of the window frames to help identify the manufacturer. Key identifiers that would help include (but not limited to):

Whether the window is interior or exterior glazed.
Whether the window is a slider, casement, awning, or fixed/picture unit (take clear pictures of the hardware as those can be useful identifiers, especially for manufacturers who use custom or specialized hardware for certain window types. Hardware can include casement/awning hinges or crank-out arms, slider rollers or locks, and/or vertical slider spring balances or locks).
If the interior jamb is attached to the frame or integrated as a monolithic unit (same with exterior options such as a brickmould or nailing flange).
The window material is PVC; PVC w/ aluminum cladding; aluminum; wood w/ aluminum cladding; fibreglass; or other.
The interior and/or exterior finishes are material, painted, laminated, cladded, etc.

From there, take pictures of your windows and talk with local window suppliers or sellers (in person, over the phone, or email) within your area and ask if the windows look familiar and match existing window series. While this method may be more time consuming, you may be able to increase your odds of finding the original manufacturer through local parties identifying your windows. This method may also help if your series of windows are discontinued and cannot be found online anymore.


Best way to hide tile edge *and* hardie board edge?

I think you are asking for "Reno-T"  Schluter.

However, you might want to consider looking for 'bull-nosed' versions of your current tile:

or matching some v-cap, deco mold, granada shaped 'chair rail' as trim:


Please help stock literally screw stuck in wall

Get a pair of ViceGrips. Fasten very tightly on the head of the screw and use them to turn the screw out.


How can I trace and troubleshoot phone lines?

Those tone generators are fantastic tools for tracing data cabling and phone cabling - but they also have several modes on them.

One of the modes is for tracing the cable through the wall, so the device will beep if it's in the general vicinity, so that you can know where abouts it is without having to have contact with it. However, this is not so great for verifying which cable is the one you've got it hooked onto when you've got a bundle of cables.

For that, there's usually a 2nd mode which will only beep if you come into direct contact with the wire.

The first point of call would be making sure that you've got the tracer set to the correct mode so that it will only beep if you're in direct contact with the wire.

If it's still beeping and in that mode, then you've got a short somewhere, which will be why the cabling isn't working. It might be worth pulling it out and replacing it if you're in a situation where that is possible (your ADSL Sync Speeds might go up drastically if you do that too).


Is Advanced and Supreme silicone worth the extra cost over the All purpose silicone?

I looked up ASTM-920 to see what Class-25, Class-35 and Class-50 meant.
Turns out the higher the class the more flexible and more adhesive your final joint will become. If you need the flexibility, you may want to go to a higher class.
There may also be a difference between the amount of biocide these caulks contain, allowing some to be more resistant than others to mold.
So in short, there does seem to be a difference.
If you have a shower installed on a flexible (wooden) floor, and this shower is used often, perhaps you may want to buy the most expensive one. For a basement shower that barely ever gets used and is installed on a stiff concrete floor (unlikely to experience flexing), perhaps you can use the least expensive.


Can I connect 14 gauge wire to 12 gauge wire

Depends on the Breaker
The breaker protects the devices but also protects the wiring. Too much current heats up the wires in the walls --> fire! You have two likely possibilities:

15A Breaker

14 AWG wire is rated for 15A of current. If the circuit is already on a 15A breaker then you can go ahead and swap any or all of the 12 AWG wiring for 14 AWG without any problems.

20A Breaker

12 AWG wire is rated for 20A of current. If the circuit is currently on a 20A breaker then you can't have 14 AWG wire in the circuit. You can either continue to use 12 AWG wire everywhere or you can replace the 20A breaker with a 15A breaker. However, if you replace the breaker then you may want to mark it in the panel because the next person might see 12 AWG wire connected and think that it could be replaced with a 20A breaker.
Keep in mind that a 20A breaker (and matching wire) can be very useful even if you don't have any individual devices that need 20A. For example, if you have a 15A circuit and someone plugs in a heating device (hair dryer, portable heater, toaster oven, etc.) it will typically draw ~ 12A = 1,440 watts while in use. That leaves only ~ 3A to spare for all lights, fans, TVs, computers, etc. that share the circuit. With a 20A circuit, you have 7A to spare, which can make the difference between having nuisance trips (or avoidance of usage) or not.


Clean or replace aerators in Kohler 1261404-VS spray head?

Did you check the other end of the hose for clogs? I didn't find any parts listed for that model number so I think the spray head is the part. Try soaking the head in some CLR and then back wash it and see if it helps. I've worked on a lot of Kohler products and many of them are not made to be disassembled. The ones I did get apart were so scratched up I just replaced them.


Securing slate tiles over outdoor cement slab

The most likely reason for the tile popping and crack  is water getting under tile and freezing.  First remove old thinset and clean.  I would use a roll on waterproofer like RedGard to seal concrete. Use a polymer-modified adhesive thinset rated for outside use to install slate and grout.


What alternatives to R20 bulbs can I use?

These would be the equivalent of an R20 flood lamp:

R20 is simply a lamp size and style designation.
R for reflector lamp.
20 for 20 eights of an inch, or 20/8", or 2.5" in diameter.

Just know, standard "A-lamps" will fit similarly to R20 lamps. It's just R lamps are reflector and will concentrate the light basically in one direction, while A lamps glow all around. The design of the fixture will determine what lamps will work best.


Self-leveling alternatives to gypsum concrete (Gyp-Crete, Pyrofill, Securock) over OSB?

We generally don't recommend self leveling alternatives on a substrate other than concrete, vibrations over time can affect their stability. Best option is shims and plywood.

That being said, you're asking for a self leveling option. Your best bet would self leveling concrete, you'll need to pay attention to the substrate requirements, it says it accepts certain wood based substrates, however compare their requirements to your situation.

like:
http://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Gray-and-Silver-Indoor-Floor-Patch-and-Leveler/1180155

Also, most of these 'concretes' are safe for electrical radiant flooring installations.


Why is my thermostat reading falsely high temperatures?

Yes thermostats do go bad. The old double mercury thermostats are great for simplicity and no batteries needed.
Yes digital thermostats do fail. Just like all electronics they have a life and if in an electrical noisy area the life will be shortened. I have only seen a few thermostats that were actually integrated as part of the heating / cooling system.
Depending on the features your system has you will need a common wire a call for heat and a call for cooling, fan only, different fan speeds / heating levels . You can install the old thermostat and although it won’t cost anything today loosing some of the features of a modern digital may be worth the expense.
Most only have cooling/ heat a fan only setting and off.


Either stay with ballasts (and you might as well use real fluorescents; they're cheaper and the light is better)... or go to ballast-bypass LEDs.
A "Universal" LED will supposedly work either ballast-bypass or with a ballast.
The ballast you pulled was an entirely modern, rapid-start T8 ballast. That plus a modern T8 real fluorescent tube is state-of-the-art and better than LED IMO; I'm actually putting those in. I assume that ballast had failed?  (if you had been putting T12 tubes in it, that would give poor performance).
With direct-wire LED "replacement tubes", there are two configurations you'll find.
Single-ended, direct-wire
This isn't your application, I'm only telling you about it because you need to know that it exists so you can be on the lookout for it.
In this case, the tube wants 120V hot + neutral on the 2 pins at one end.  The other end is completely dead and does nothing.
In my opinion single-ended is a bad idea - it's hard to wire, and it puts 120V between the two end pins, and they were never made for that.  Installing a double-ended "tube" may go kaboom. I don't like kaboom, it seems unprofessional.
Double-ended, direct wire, or universal
In this case, the tube wants hot + neutral at opposite ends of the tube.  It wants both pins at each end connected.   Generally when you have a Universal LED tube that works either with or without ballast, it will be this type.  (for technical reasons).
This is your case.
This is very simple and straightforward to wire.  All the wires from one end of the fixture, go to Hot.  All the wires from the other end of the fixture, go to Neutral.  To join that many #18 wires, use an orange wire nut.
If you mistakenly install any single-ended "tubes", they just won't work.
Aren't LED replacement tubes fun?  More confusing than T12 vs T8, and $10 a tube instead of $2!  Supposedly they last forever, but I see a lot of dead ones when I go through big-box stores and look at their ceilings.


Can I use a camp fuel butane bottle with a brazing torch?

Butane has a much higher boiling point than propane (31 F vs. -44 F).  So if you're burning it at a fast rate, the pressure will be different.  If you're working in freezing temperatures, you may even have trouble feeding the torch.

Also, I've read that butane doesn't transfer its heat as effectively (see this for example).  They have similar BTUs, but the rationale is that the butane flame is more diluted because it takes more combustion air.  I have no idea whether that's true.  That wouldn't make any difference for a camping stove, but brazing steel is more demanding.

Nozzles designed for butane are different, and a different air/fuel mix is required.  So a torch designed for propane may not give the best butane flame.  All the torches I've seen designed for butane are small, but designed to get the optimum flame from the butane.

The canister connection may also be different depending on size, but is you're asking the question, I'm guessing that issue doesn't apply..

You want to use it for a demanding application.  The only way to tell if it will be effective is to try it.  It may be good enough, but it isn't likely to be as effective with a torch designed for propane as using propane.  If it does work, you may go through a lot more butane for the job than the amount of propane that would be required.


How can I modify floors, walls, ceilings and furniture in a reversible way?

There really isn't a lot you can do to a floor which is affordable and reversable other than throw down a rug. A washable rug isn't unthinkable in a kitchen but personally I don't like that solution, not least due to concerns over trip hazard when carrying hot items. Serious burns are not fun (he says, having poured boiling water over his foot many years ago).

That kitchen floor is MUCH less offensive than many. I believe that, after living there a month or two, it'll just become "the way it is" and you'll stop noticing it except when specifically looking for things to object to. Meanwhile, putting a light-colored work table in the middle of the kitchen might change the look of the room enough to make you happier.

Regarding the shower door... You may be able to dismount the doors and remount them upon departure, but the tracks will almost certainly need to stay in place. Personally I would STRONGLY recommend you talk to the landlord about this so he or she doesn't discover the change when you bring them to repair something; if they do approve this change they may also have opinions on where and how the doors should be stored. Again, though, I'd suggest you try living with it for a while and see how much it's really a problem rather than just being different.

Modifying walls: Hang art (up to and including quilts...); make sure it's properly supported per the complex's rules and be prepared to do some touch-up of the walls when you leave. And/or paint, with the owner's permission (again, they may insist it be repainted back to white when you leave). Or put up freestanding bookcases, or other furnishings to break up the wall.  (I once built a full-wall shelving-and-clothes-rails system for one apartment which was badly short of closet space. About $100 worth of white Melamine-covered fiberboard plus hardware. Backless, mostly freestanding, braced against the wall at each end of the room and with a few brackets anchoring it to studs to make it somewhat childproof. Much cheaper and more roomy than buying an armoire, not stylish but functional.)

Ceilings: If you're looking at the ceilings of a rental at any time except when in bed, you're probably looking too hard.

It's a rental. It will never be perfect. Settle for making it functional and comfortable. Your next apartment will have a whole new set of issues.


Reduce 8mm square tube to 7mm square tube without pro metal tools?

I'll disagree with (most of) the comments above and say just file it. You are removing a small amount of material, you don't want to remove too much, and it won't take very long to do each one.
Without crafting some sort of jig you're far more likely to overdo it on at least some of the handles with a powered approach, and/or to make the result un-square.
I don't think you are doing so many that such a jig will be worth your time to build.


Installing Router inside Electrical Closet and Hacking the Telephone Socket

For connecting the router to your phone line, you need to find the 'ISRA punt' (this is specific to the Netherlands). This is where the phone company line from outside connects to the phone wiring in your house. The cable up to the ISRA punt is owned by the phone company and you're not allowed to modify it. You are allowed to modify the wiring that comes out of the ISRA punt at the consumer end.

There have been several standard shapes for this over the years. In older houses the ISRA punt may not even be in the metering closet.

This KPN page helps you identify the ISRA punt:

Does your metering closet contain an ISRA punt?


Depending on the exact shape you might be able to tilt it up (about 1 degree, or considerably more based on what the lip shape is) at one end if there's enough room to rotate it back down once "in place" but tubs are awkward to fiddle into place and redoing the drywall after it's in might be simpler (or just needed even if you don't remove it first, from the scars you'll probably put into it fighting with the tub.)


It sounds to me like your oven has a serious fault.

Disconnect it immediately and do not use it.

(Connecting it to ground should cause the fuse to blow immediately.)

The fault probably lies in the heating element (these often fail and short to ground). Your house should have a ground connection - which jurisdiction/country are you in?  Most have regulations requiring a ground connection.


Can I use hot water to transfer heat from a greenhouse into the house?

Pumping heat from the greenhouse into the room could be a feasible thing to do. Recall that the amount of heat transferred from one thing to another is proportional to the difference in temperature between the things. You've got four transfers in the proposed system (greenhouse air -> radiator -> water -> radiator -> indoor air) -- it might be a struggle to get good performance from that many transfers with only about 30 degrees F across the whole thing.
Instead, consider exchanging the air directly. Maybe you can conceive some blower door insert to place in the sliding door opening. You can get a damper "off the shelf" disguised as a clothes dryer vent, for instance. Place a damper up high to admit warm air into the room and another down low to admit cool air into the greenhouse. It might prove interesting to see how much heat transfers by thermosyphon alone, ie without any fan forcing the air to circulate.


What wireless temperature monitoring systems should I look into?

One option is using Arduino based microcontroller. I recommend JeeNode for integrated wireless.

For basic one "server" plus one remote sensor you need two JeeNodes, USB adapter, temperature sensor and battery, all for around 55 €. You need to know how to solder electronic components and program in C. Each additional sensor would cost about 20 €.

Here is example project for temperature sensor using Arduino (will work on JeeNode as well). You have to add wireless code as well, starting with this skeleton.

So, not so cheap and certainly pretty advanced DIY. ;-)


Why is there gasoline in my generator's crankcase?

At the bottom of the carburetor is a bowl and inside is a float-actuated valve.  Gas is gravity fed from the tank to the bowl, and when the bowl fills up, the valve is supposed to close off flow from the tank.  When that fails, gas can continue through the carburetor and into the idle engine, and eventually make its way into the oil at the bottom of the crankcase.
You will need to thoroughly clean the carb, and I'd recommend installing an inline fuel cut-off valve.  Lastly, you'll want to change the oil.


You should not even think of attempting to wire a 40A circuit with two 12 AWG (20A) parallel conductors. If you did this and then by chance one of the 12 AWG conductors failed to an open circuit for some reason you would have a serious overload condition possible on the other lone conductor. That conductor could very well overheat and cause a fire when the circuit is still backed up with a 40A breaker.


Do most stackable washer dryers fail because of the washer being overloaded/won't drain?

Rather than simply "stacking" the dryer on the washer (as the term implies), it's important to secure the dryer above the washer with a solid connector. The stacking kits provided by manufacturers accomplish this task. The problem is not just large vibrations, but frequent tiny ones that cause them to move away from each other - similar to a vibrating phone moving on a table.

The dryer is commonly (if not exclusively) put on top of the washer for weight reasons, as you suggested. The washer will be filled with water, whereas the load in the dryer will weigh much less.


Why does my toilet's seal wear out so fast?

Use two of the wax seals stacked on top of one another. It takes more squishing to set the toilet down, but the seal is a lot more resilient to shifting.

My plumber gave me this tip, and it seems to have worked the two times I used it.


Furnace fan intermittent high pitch sound

Sounds more like a bearing going bad to me than a balance issue - unbalance is more often a vibration, and to become unbalanced the fan would either need to have a part fall off, or accumulate crud.

"Lifetime lubricated bearings" are a standard euphemism for "we prelubed and then provided no way to relube, so when it wears out from lack of lubrication, that's the lifetime of the fan" - i.e. I expect you are looking at replacement.

I know nothing about your specific furnace, but I know squealing fans pretty well.


Connecting well to home using water hose

As Jim Stewart said in the comments, this likely has nothing to do with the pipe size.   Reducing water line size is a common practice.  The pressure is the problem - the pump is generating more than the system can handle and causing damage.

You asked "how can I lay a new water line" and specified above ground.  Usually this is a bad idea because above ground water lines are subject to conditions harmful to them like cold weather (freezing lines will eventually rupture), and general exposure to the elements and things like lawn mowers, trimmers, etc.

You should plan to bury the water line the same way the old one was - although in your case you probably should be contacting the installer (and possibly a lawyer) to repair the damage and pay for the water damage in the house.


How do I install this flush mount ceiling light fixture?

Before you start, make sure the power to the fixture is off (not just at the switch) and, if possible, confirm with a non-contact tester (a few bucks at a hardware store).

D are the screws that need to be put through B, which is the bracket that will be attached to the ceiling box to hold up the fixture.

To see which holes, align the bracket with the holes in the fixture base. Thread screws D through the back of the bracket so the threaded ends stick out front. Which side of the bracket is the back depends on the ceiling box and whether you need the offset on the bracket sticking down or up. (It often doesn't matter.)

C are the screws that hold the bracket B to the ceiling box. Once the bracket is installed, you can connect the wires on the fixture to the wires in the ceiling box (including the ground wire to the green screw on the bracket).

Place the fixture against the ceiling with the threaded ends of D sticking through the holes. Attach with the nuts E.

The threaded tube on A is screwed into the center of the fixture, the nut is then tightened down the tube to the fixture.  The remaining parts are removed. After bulbs are installed, the globe is put on, followed by the soft washer, the hard washer and the next nut. Don't overtighten or you can crack the globe. Then the decorative cap is put on and then the ball finial.


Here is a link to south wire voltage drop calculator your voltage drop should be less than 3%. I entered 240v 160' and 80 amp load since you did not give a value. The calculator provided #3 copper. You would want to use UF cable for direct burial. If you are putting it in conduit you would want to use THWN. Schedule 80 PVC conduit would need to be 1-1/4" for 3 wire or 1-1/2 for 4 wire.
In your sub Panel the ground and neutral needs to be isolated many times they are tied together at the factory with a large copper wire connecting the 2 grounded / grounding buss bars. Other than that you should bury this a minimum of 18".


Is the electrical setup of my (rental) house safe?

DANGER. You MUST switch off the main switch before handling fuses or MCBs on that type of fuseboard.
It's generally safe, but with some reservations.

The use of mixed MCBs and fuses is not in itself a problem. Wylex make retro-fit MCBs and bases to fit in place of the old fuse carriers and bases.

The retro-fit MCBs have a lower ability to clear high current faults (rupture capacity) than the fuses they replace, so may not be suitable in all installations and the electrician should have checked this.

The cover that goes over the fuses/MCBs must have an aperture cut to fit round the MCBs. Without the cover, the gap round the MCBs/fuses may not be finger-proof with the potential to touch live parts. Fuseboxes of this age usually have unguarded live busbars within. Also, the cover is required to contain any molten metal or arc that is emitted if a fuse blows. Without the cover, there is a risk of fire or arc burns.

The black service fuse terminations look okay, but I can't see the top edges which must not have any unblocked holes for cables.

However, the installation does not comply with the current (18th Edition, as Amended) Wiring Regulations, because:

no RCD on circuits
questionable ingress protection (touch safe) on fusebox at front with cover removed, on top side of fusebox where cables enter
non-metallic fusebox may not be combustion-resistant

In general, there is no requirement to upgrade an electrical installation, but there is in rental property.
The law (if you are in England) is the Electrical Safety Standards in the Private Rented Sector (England) Regulations 2020

The regulations came into force on 1 June 2020, they apply to new
tenancies from 1 July 2020 and existing tenancies from 1 April 2021.
The standards that should be met are set out in the 18th edition of
the Wiring Regulations.
The Regulations state that a landlord must ensure that electrical
safety standards are met, and that investigative or remedial work is
carried out if the report requires this.
The electrical installation should be safe for continued use. In
practice, if the report does not require investigative or remedial
work, the landlord will not be required to carry out any further work.
Landlords must obtain a report (usually an Electrical Installation Condition Report or EICR) from the person conducting the inspection
and test which explains its outcomes and any investigative or remedial
work required.
Landlords must then supply a copy of this report to the tenant within 28 days of the inspection and test, to a new tenant before they
occupy the premises, and to any prospective tenant within 28 days of
receiving a request for the report.

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/electrical-safety-standards-in-the-private-rented-sector-guidance-for-landlords-tenants-and-local-authorities/guide-for-landlords-electrical-safety-standards-in-the-private-rented-sector
The lack of RCD on circuits would usually be coded C3 - Improvement required, but if there was also no supplementary bonding in the bathroom, or the sockets might be used for equipment outdoors, or there are other conditions applying, that warrants a C2 - Potentially dangerous and that will require remedial work that must be done.
https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/eicr-and-rcds-is-it-a-c2-or-c3.172686/
and
https://professional-electrician.com/technical/napit-codebreakers-14/


Mr. Cool 24k mini split. Electrical install

Air conditioners don't quite follow the same rules as everything else out there

Due to the fact that hermetic air conditioning compressors invariably have overload protection built-in, the circuit breaker on an air conditioner circuit doesn't need to protect against a motor overload condition, just a short circuit.  Hence, the NEC lets you size wiring and protection for an air conditioner based on the Minimum Circuit Ampacity and Maximum Overcurrent Protection Device figures quoted by the manufacturer and listed on the nameplate, instead of using the general branch-circuit wire sizing rules.  (These figures obey rules found in NEC Article 440.)

In particular, according to the brochure's specifications for your unit, it has a Minimum Circuit Ampacity of 18A and a Maximum Overcurrent Protection Device of 30A.  So, you could run 10/2 or 12/2 NM to the disconnect, since the unit has no use for a neutral wire, then run a prefab 1/2" flex whip kit (1/2" LFNC with 3x 12AWG) from a non-fusible pullout disconnect down to the outdoor unit. (The signal cable on these units is an integral part of the lineset, so it is routed with that instead of traveling up the flex whip.)

If you need a service receptacle at the unit, 12/4, 12/2/2, or 10/4 NM can be used instead, with the black and white wires used for the service receptacle and the red and blue (or white/red taped black, red, or blue) wires used for the 240V circuit to the air conditioner.  In all of these cases, you'll be using a THQL2130 or THQP230 (30A, 2 pole) breaker for the air conditioner circuit; while one could use a 25A breaker instead, that may lead to difficulty down the road (namely, false trips due to a hard starting compressor).  The service receptacle circuit, if present, is then connected to a general lighting circuit in the panel using wirenuts and 12AWG THHN pigtails to avoid a double tap on the breaker, by the way.


Would these 3 motors perform differently?

The #3 motor having ball bearings will outlast the sleeve bearings. A ball bearing motor can be run closer to 115% of FLA (full load amps) with creating as much heat. The larger Frame usually provides more torque at the same amperage. Small motors like this are usually rated in peak horsepower / 746W of consumed power is called 1 horsepower. This calculation is usually at close to locked rotor so no true power is being generated, just consumed. To answer your question You might find the larger ball bearing motor has 20-50% more torque at 746W so it would be much more powerful than the other 2 motors.


What do you do if the hole in the tile is larger than the shower faucet escutcheon?

Some vendors offer over sized escutcheons for this purpose. I found one available from Symmons. It was for their shower faucet, but I used it on a Moen. It's just a matter of how it is mounted.


If I read your original question correct you said that "the outlets are not getting any juice" but you confuse me with your later statement about the LOAD side still having the tape on, this would suggest that there is no connection to other receptacles on the load side. Can you clarify that please?

If I may suggest that you make sure your wires are stripped the proper length and fixed to the line side of the GFCI receptacle using the side screws and not the push-in holes, I have experienced poor results with the latter method making a good contact just plugging them in. also it is a good idea to make sure the breaker for the circuit is off when making the connections.

If the problem persists you may want to get an professional on the scene, at $25 a pop for the outlets you could save yourself a head ache and get it done in one go.


What can I do about a toilet drain pipe that is too high above the floor?

Assuming the flange is sound (it looks pretty worn and rusted), you might try to create a ceramic tile platform that would lift the bowl to be flush on both the flange and the floor.  You are right that a lifted flange is a problem because the wobbling will eventually break the wax seal and allow leakage and smells, to say nothing of making the user uncomfortable.

It looks like you have some type of vinyl flooring under the bowl now.  if that is the case, you could work out a tile layout, at least a bit wider than the footprint of the bowl, then trim the vinyl just ouside of the new tile boundary. Remove the vinyl and affix the ceramic tile to the subfloor.  You may want to use a tile membrane base over the subfloor and under the tile for better adhesion and water resistance.

Obviously, you need to find a tile that will be just high enough with the vinyl removed and allowing for the membrane (if you use it) and a bit of tile adhesive. After the tile is set and dried, you can seal the the new tile platform to the rest of the vinyl flooring with a good quality caulk or silicone sealant.

If the flange is not solid (and the bowl is bolted to the flange), it needs to be replaced, usually a job needing professional help.


awkward driveway curve has cars nearly colliding with house, how to mitigate?

My suggestion is to add to the size of the concrete drive way in the following manner:

This gives you the option of backing up out of the car port in the new area toward the rear yard. Then you can drive in a forward direction which would be far easier to navigate by the truck and the corner of the house.

Additionally the part added onto the side nearer to the street view will allow the truck parking area to be moved over a little to alleviate the congestion posed by the parked vehicle in its current spot.

Adding onto existing concrete like this is certainly doable but there can be some downsides including looks and joining the new to the old slabs. If those are of concern to you then you would be looking at taking out a good portion of the existing slab and replacing with all new. Cost factors can be a good aid in the decision path.


You are probably not replacing a 3-way. A 3-way switch system uses two switches to control one device. Try using a regular(single-pole) light switch. Connect the the 'live' line or power wire to one side of the switch. Now any device(s) connected to the other side of the switch will be controlled by the switch after you turn the power back on.


How should I grout when there's a combination of natural stone and glass tiles?

Clarification from the manufacturer:

"Natural stone should be sealed prior to grouting. A premium penetrating sealer is recommended for a natural look. A stone enhancing sealer can be applied to darken or highlight the features of the stone. The sealer is safe to apply over the entire mosaic with the glass."


Is the leak at the faucet or the cartridge (handle)?
If the leak is at the faucet you may have shaken the seats loose or broke gunk in the pipe loose that got into the seats.
Both involve turning off the water and pulling the cartridge and looking for damage or debris.
If the leak is at the handle you may have cracked the plastic pivot / seal. With a new faucet they may replace it as long as there are no drill holes or gouges.


Why are loop (Chicago) vents typically built with three elbows?

From the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO) "Uniform Codes Spotlight" archive from February 2018:

  The configuration of the return bend using 45 degree and 90 degree elbows purposes to maintain a vertical angle (see Section 224.0, Vertical Pipe). This is to protect the return bend from accumulating waste and to prevent waste from flowing down the return side of the bend if a blockage occurs.


How can I safely remove snow from my roof?

I would suggest a roof rake - like this.  You would start about 3-4 feet up, crack through ice and then rake down.  If you have a tall roof this becomes a safety issue and might need two people - one to secure ladder.  It isn't easy work.

Also if you can safely get on top of the roof it is much easier to push the snow off.


How can I figure out why half my house is cold?

If it is a manual damper, there is usually a wing nut that attaches the handle to the shaft of the damper. If this wing nut is loose, it might allow the handle to turn without actually turning the internal damper. I would verify that the nut us tight and when you turn the handle, you can actually see the shaft rotating at the same time. If the tube of the duct has somehow been compressed, then the damper would bind up and not work properly.


Junction box in closet partially covered by wall

I have three things to tell you.

That can't possibly be a legal installation. Junction boxes must remain accessible and cannot be walled up. Even partially covering one like that is going to cause the inspector to plotz. Also, it's obviously a NM extension to a knob-and-tube circuit, which is no longer allowed in most venues. Plus, even if it's legal, you have an ungrounded fault ground wire and no place to ground it. Whatever that NM leads to may appear to be grounded which is a dangerous deception.

The reason I think the NM ground wire is ungrounded is because I assume the power is coming into the box via the older cable, since newer cable is usually used to physically extend a circuit. However sometimes newer cable appears between the service panel and older cable, so OP should disconnect the hots and test with a volt meter.
I am not a licensed electrician so my advice may raise some eyebrows. I think you can add a light to the closet without substantially increasing the danger to your home and person. Screw a metal hex box to the ceiling of the closet and mount the pullchain light on that. Connect the ceiling box to the existing box with plastic conduit, and pull two wires to connect the lamp to the wire nuts in the existing box.

Use the proper fittings to connect the conduit to the boxes. You'll have to knock out one of the openings in the existing box. You may want to use larger wire nuts to accommodate the three wires. Try to figure out the gauge of the wires in the existing box and size your new wires to match them; this helps protect some future occupant who might plug a toaster into your light fixture.

I would use a needle-nose pliers to wind that bare ground wire into a small coil, and wrap some tape around it to keep it from touching the metal box. This eliminates one way to get a shock if some appliance on that NM cable goes bad. Then, close up the existing box with a proper metal cover plate and try not to think about it.
Many licensed electricians post answers and advice on this site. If they disagree with me, you should listen to them. I tend to give advice consonant with how I maintain my own house, and I may be taking more risks than you would be comfortable with.


How can I Fix a broken plastic screw hole

If you can get to the screw hole, mix some quick setting epoxy and form it into a side. You'll have to keep forming it until it hardens. Maybe wrap some tape around the side that's not broken and make a "form" to put the epoxy in. Once it's cured, drill a hole for the screw


How to repair door trim that was chewed by dog

It looks like the casing sustained most of the damage. It appears to be aged pine or fir. The challenge will be finding a matching profile. You may need to replace the casing on the entire opening face so that the three pieces match.

Look for a molding with the same width as the original and a profile of similar style. Depth isn't critical as long as it's aesthetically similar. A miter saw and small trim nails will be needed. Chances are a couple coats of polyurethane varnish will give a similar look after some time for UV light to darken the pine.


Using a 24 volt ac relay with a 16 volt ac doorbell circuit

Use a multi-voltage relay
The good news is that you're not stuck with single-voltage relay coils; a RIBU1C's low-voltage coil is rated for anywhere from 10-30VAC, for instance.  That, a plastic "handy box" with ½" KOs on it, and some wirenuts and cableclamps, will get you what you need.


What can I mix with paint to avoid mold?

Depending on the paint you bought, you may be able to add lime which is a mold inhibitor due to its pH.

If you can still return the paint, making your own milk paint (aka casein paint) at home is an option. Milk paint has the property of being a natural mold inhibitor if done correctly. Numerous recipes (and youtube videos) can be found online with a quick search depending on your application.


Buy the 10" boards and rip them in half for two 5" studs for the least amount of waste, or to 3-1/2" if you want readily available windows and doors to fit in your openings which is going to be your next problem. Since the wood is spruce, follow IRC building codes for 2x4 SPF load bearing/exterior walls. At 8' tall and 16" on center spacing you can support most roofs, but don't support both a floor and a roof on it without asking us or reading up on it first. Use closed cell sill sealer to separate the bottom plate from direct contact with concrete/masonry, or just find pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate instead.


How do I measure my screws to match how stores label them?

How do I measure my screws?, let me count the ways.
Buy yourself a gauge.
For not much money you can take the guess work out of it.
Stainlesstown Nut Bolt Thread Gauge
SAE and Metric Bolt Gauge Check a Thread Fastener Tool


are there places that can duplicate a vanity mirror? or places to re silver an old mirror?

Assuming the actual mirror can be removed from the frame, getting a replacement custom-cut mirror shouldn't be too hard. Finding a place that can do re-silvering sounds more difficult and more expensive. It can technically be done yourself, but is probably more trouble than it's worth, and also requires removing the actual mirror from the frame.

Finding a place that sells custom-cut glass and mirrors would need to be done locally; this isn't an Internet type of thing.


Aluminum wire is bad. It will prank call your friends, and steal your girlfriend.

No seriously, you just need to make sure you are terminating it properly and use splices specifically designed for aluminum wire connections.  These must have a rating of CO/ALR (COpper/ALuminum Revised).

Now to go deeper into the ooga-booga-scary aluminum wire.  Where it got into big trouble was trying to use it for the thin wires used in outlet and lighting circuits (14/12 AWG copper, 12/10 AWG aluminum).  This was originally done due to the scarcity of metals in post-WWII reconstruction.  They made hasty choices of aluminum alloy and termination design, and it didn't work and caused fires.  They solved it three ways:

improved the terminations (now CO-ALR).
improved the aluminum alloy (banned AA-1350 and now require AA-80xx)
Stopped using it for the thin stuff (12/10 AWG) since there isn't much cost savings.

I prefer copper up to 6 AWG/50A, and aluminum above that.

You might consider replacing your electric cable to your range, for a totally different reason: you probably have 3-wire (hot-neutral-hot), no ground. Any problem with the neutral wire will electrify the chassis of the range and kill you.  It happens.  Ground can be retrofitted separately, but why not seize the chance to dump the archaic AA-13xx cable.


Controlling separate heat and AC units from a single thermostat

Yes.

Remove the jumper between the R and Rc terminals.
Connect the R wire from the heating system to the R terminal.
Connect the R wire from the cooling system to the Rc terminal.

Then you should be able to follow the thermostats installation guide, to connect the rest of the wires for the heating and cooling systems.

Unfortunately, without seeing the wiring in the heating and cooling systems, it's impossible to tell you how to connect the rest of the wires.  Typically W is for heat call, Y is for cool call, and G is for fan. However, there's no standards or requirements that make this universal.

It appears that you're using a Honeywell Wire Saver device, which is why the cooling system uses the K terminal instead of Y.  I'd leave that wired the way it is, and simply add the heating call wire (from the heating system) to the W terminal.


Waterproofing weeping tile inside vs outside

Concrete is porous. Consider it a sponge. Any water that comes in contact with it will be drawn in via capillary action.

If water is coming into your basement, it's likely because it's the easiest route for the water to take. Ideally, you'd slope/grade your yard away from the wall to get the water away from the block wall as soon as you can.

Freezing water in concrete is a concern, but that usually requires a frequent freeze/thaw cycle. Something of concern on say a driveway in cold climates, but likely won't have too much of an effect on a wall.


Why are LED bulbs in a cooker hood flashing when I put in the fourth bulb?

This usually means that the transformer either is not large enough or not compatible with your LED bulbs.

It could also be a problematic bulb or socket, so before replacing the transformer, try the bulbs in different sockets and see if its still always adding the 4th bulb in the same location that causes the issue.  If its always the same bulb, regardless of number of bulbs installed or location, then that bulb is probably defective.  Otherwise it's probably the transformer.

Note that some transformers/drivers, dimmers, etc. are rated differently for LED vs incandescent bulbs.


The usual official blessed method here is to replace the whole cable. Odds are excellent that your mower manual says that. So, officially and for maximum safety, that is what you should do.

If you are going to do otherwise, you need both a better repair method and to isolate the functions of the repair - part one being the strain relief or physical end to end strength, part two being the electrical connections.

Staying close to your current methodology, you could overlap the cords by roughly 24 inches and tape the center 12" firmly together (that being the physical strength connection) then loop the free ends back to make the electrical connection using wire nuts of a size appropriate for the conductors in the cord, or a soldered connection, or a crimp connection, and then tape that whole mess up. Twisting and taping is not really a sufficient splice method.

Practically speaking, if you need the full length of the cord (the problem raised in your question suggests that you do), you won't have it anymore - so that takes you back to "replace it."

One reason that this sort of repair/splice is officially frowned upon (other than potential poor workmanship exposing connections) is that the cord does not cool as well where it's bundled together, so it can overheat, especially if (as is too common) it's rather near its limits when in good repair.

A more involved repair can be done by using hollow braided rope as the physical strength connection. Yellow polypropylene seems to to be the most common form of this seen in the wild. If you push on it, it gets larger in diameter, and can be slipped over a cable, and with a bit of help from something like a pen or pencil you can expand the holes in the mesh enough to slip the cut end of the cable through the side. If you use something like a 4 foot section of rope and slip the cables in 18-22 inches before poking them out the side, you can get a nice long grip on the cable , and make your electrical splice in the sections that are outside the rope - while the rope will provide the end-to-end strength. Once in place, smooth the rope down to stretch it to maximum length on the cables, then tape it firmly in place.

A final alternative is to put a plug on the cut end of the cord attached to the mower, and a receptacle on the one attached to the plug. Use twist-locks, or use normal extension cord strain relief methods.


Craftsman 137.248760 tablesaw blade comes loose

If the blade is spinning, but the nut remains secure add a washer between the blade and nut. If the nut is loosening look at it's threads for evidence of cross-threading; it may be stripped. If so apply a thread-locking fluid and snug it tight. Check that the blade opening is the correct size for the arbor (I'm sure it is but...) and that the blade doesn't have a knock-out bushing that has come detached.


"Axle cap": what is it called and how to remove it?

I assembled toys, displays, and bicycles for a major retailer for 7 years.  I despise removing those caps in a recessed hole like the center of a plastic wheel.  You can snap the plastic cover off, then use vice grips, pliers, a screw driver, or wire cutters to twist, bend, pry, or cut the metal part to remove it.  They're almost always destroyed during removal so expect to use that spare to replace it.


Does OTR Microwave need to be flush against upper cabinet?

Yes there is normally a gap between the OTR and the cabinet above it.  If you review the install instructions usually the gap is 1".

The gap is almost required and the typically U shaped metal mount on the back wall requires that the OTR be tilted in to be installed.  The tilting then requires that both the air output and the electrical cord coming out of the top of the unit thread into receiving holes in the bottom of the upper cabinet.  When tilting if you were to make it flush you'd need a trench type hole to allow the electrical cord to feed up into the upper cabinet.  I've done it flush before but it was quite a bit more difficult and the lower shelf of the cabinet above had to be butchered.


What is the Virginia code regarding gas water heater connections?

Virginia code regarding materials for water heater hookups doesn't get too specific but does to say to make sure you're in accordance with the water heater's manual.

I'm not sure what model you have but the instructions for a current Whirlpool electric water say CPVC is fine (see page 6, item 3). It also recommends compression fittings if you don't want to solder, but doesn't specifically prohibit Sharkbites.

Also the code is OK with CPVC. I took a look for something specifit to within 'X' distance of a water heater and didn't see anything. Here's the link for the code if you'd like to take a look yourself.

Expansions tanks are required if you have a Pressure reducing value (PRV) or backflow preventer. If you do not then there's no need for an expansion tank.

Local codes may superceed state codes, so check what your county & town say. If you call the inspector's office and set up a time to call and speak with an inspector, they should be happy to answer your questions. And if this was installed without a permit they'll be interested to hear about that as well probably. (And if it was installed with a permit it should have been inspected, which would mean it's fine).


Connecting PEX and my existing Boiler Heating System

Given that you are now running only half as many radiators, you might be able to "re-purpose" the surplus to provide hot water for your staple up radiant floor heating.
An important factor to consider is that maximum floor temperature should never exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit, so you might need to add a mixing valve and a separate circulator pump. Although, (just thinking out loud) I wonder if you could supply the PEX tubing with "less-hot" water being returned to the boiler. Thereby eliminating the need for a mixing valve and separate circulator pump.


Should I connect the bare ground wire from the main panel to the grounding bar in the subpanel?

1) Replacing the subpanel is a very good idea -- FPE Stab-Loks are absolute junk that have a well-known propensity for failing to do their job when called upon, and also are susceptible to faults in the busbar-to-breaker contacts (high resistance/overheating) that are documented to cause the symptoms you're seeing -- this phenomenon can develop into a full-fledged electrical fire!

If a complete replacement of the subpanel is impractical for whatever reason, there is also the option of gutting the box and using one of the Eaton CH retrofit kits to replace the innards.  Since your box is a mere, oh, 7" wide by 11" tall, this requires an Eaton RWCH6L125N retrofit interior, the matching cover (a CRWCH6ML of the appropriate size), and the appropriate Eaton CH breakers (it looks like you can use a CH220 and a CH250 along with a pair of CHT1515s, but I'd need to know more about what this subpanel feeds in order to specify for certain).

2) You will need to run a ground wire from the subpanel to the main panel, and separate the ground and neutral bars in the subpanel; however, you do not need a GEC + grounding electrode for a subpanel in the same building as the main panel, as such an installation falls under NEC 215.6:

  215.6 Feeder Equipment Grounding Conductor. Where a feeder supplies branch
  circuits in which equipment grounding conductors are required, the feeder
  shall include or provide an equipment grounding conductor in accordance with
  the provisions of 250.134, to which the equipment grounding conductors of the
  branch circuits shall be connected. Where the feeder supplies a separate
  building or structure, the requirements of 250.32(B) shall apply.


Why does the blade of my table saw stop?

At this point I would take it apart. It's already broke you have nothing to lose. I had an older Delta saw that had a gearbox fail. The parts were more than I paid for the saw. It may not be a total loss though. Some of the older models had a router mount cast into the table. It was useless as a saw but made a dandy router table.


Current code in many places (ymmv since we don't know where you are) calls for GFCI outlets throughout a garage.

From a practical standpoint, a GFCI above the sink is recommended for safety, so I'd change it. (This assumes you don't have a gfci breaker or another outlet upstream that makes your sink outlet into a gfci.)

If you don't like the cord looping over your sink, be sure to get an appropriate extension cord. Look for a 15A rating and stay as short as possible. (These often get called "air conditioner extension cords".)


14 day skipper not advancing on Intermatic sprinkler timer

The brass pins have a particular tab positioned to trip the actual switch that controls current to the valves. The silver pin they refer to has a different tab to drive the skipper wheel. They are not interchangeable. If you are missing the silver one, you need to procure another one and install it as directed.

If you cannot procure one, it might be possible to fabricate one based on the brass pattern. The only difference is probably the tab position. You will have to deduce somehow what proper tab position and shape that it would take to drive the skipper wheel. There is likely some protrusion under the skipper wheel that engages this tab, much like how the switch engages the brass tabs, except at a different position relative to the clock wheel.


How do I fix my table top from chemical damage?

A picture would be SOOOOOO helpful. As well, knowing what the finish is and even what the table is made of.

Even without that information, almost certainly the only fix will be to strip down the (entire) surface of the table. At least it is the only fix that will look any good. You will never get a uniformly good looking solution otherwise.


How can I prepare uneven concrete basement floor for vinyl planks?

Type of flooring dictates how "perfect" it needs to be, carpet being the least work. Vinyl is flexible so just no real drastic changes.

Below are the basic steps to fixing uneven concrete floors.

Use a straight edge and mark high and low spots. (Really exaggerated case in this image)

Or if you like gadgets, Bosch has a new laser out that lets you easily mark the uneven parts.

You use a grinder (with dust mask and safety goggles) for high spots. You can rent a large floor grinder or get on your hands and knees.

and SLC (self-leveling compound) in low spots. For SLC just follow the manufacturer's instructions. If the floor is really bad you may want to pour the stuff over the whole thing.


How deep should piers be for a concrete block fence wall?

Concrete block walls don't have posts or piers, usually. They rest on a continuous footing. The depth of that footing can be found in established local code, and depends almost entirely on annual frost depth.

If your wall has support beams of concrete or steel you could build on piers, but that's a much more expensive and complicated approach. However, the depth requirement for either is probably the same.


What caused a burn mark near my hot water pipes?

I'd say it's a mark left by the plumber's torch while soldering the copper pipes rather than an electrical problem.


Are products like redguard fit for use as a waterproofing membrane for shower pans or floor applications?

Redguard (tech sheet) passes the ANSI A118.10 and A118.12, which include waterproofing

Shower pans are a critical assembly and have to be treated as a system.  Both Schluter (sheet membrane Kerdi) and Laticrete (liquid membrane Hydroban) use a wide flange drain assembly that improves the transition area between membrane and drain.


How to use thinner insulation than the steel studs?

If paper-faced insulation is available, I'd consider using an adhesive caulk to hold it to the studs. The product we use for polyethylene vapor barriers here is called "acoustical sealant". It remains very flexible, so it's less likely to cause bulges in your drywall.

Alternatively, use a spray adhesive on the back side of the drywall that's already installed. Press the fiberglass onto it while it's tacky, then install the opposite drywall face.


How far into a footing pier should rebar extend from the rock below?

Well, if it's poured & done, you're evidently into the test phase, so this is not really going to help you much unless it fails and you replace it (which seems unlikely.)
Normally you want rebar a few (2-3, depending on conditions) inches deep in the concrete (for corrosion resistance) but otherwise as near the edges as practical, and connected to as much of the mass as practical.
The basic spacing sounds reasonable, but the fact that it's all within the footing is less than optimal for the pier. There are probably few tension loads on the pier, so it's likely to be fine - you've got the footing attached to the bedrock.
Normally you also want to "cage" between your uprights - tying the bent-over bars in the middle is probably doing the least they can do for you, but you didn't cut them long enough to bend over and reach the next corner, and you don't mention bending and tying any other rebar in that position, or adding mesh. Whether doing a single pour or two pours, it's good practice to have rebar sticking up from the base into the pier, though your pier is rather short. So having it stick up 4" when the pier starts at 5 inches and tops out at 9 inches is less than ideal.
When anchoring to rock, I prefer to drill at slight angles so the rods cannot be pulled straight out as a set once the concrete is poured, regardless of epoxy or grout holding them in the holes.


Low voltage on 120V receptacle after too much load

Since you have a meter, flip the breaker off for this circuit and remove the receptacle. Keep the wires separated and safe and then flip the breaker back on. Check the voltage between the hot and neutral. If it's 120V, then replace the receptacle. If it's still 13V, then the problem is upstream of this between the walls or at another receptacle along the line.

If this is the issue, you would have to check out each receptacle along the line until it returns to 120V from hot to neutral, this would mean the problem is between that receptacle and the last measured. Since you said that the nearest receptacle is at 120V, I'm assuming that it's on the same circuit and the next wired in sequence? If anything, your problem is between this receptacle and your problem receptacle; in wiring or in devices.


What material should I use for a custom, do-it-yourself desk for my home office?

Perhaps kitchen worktop is the way to go - plenty of choices in finish, thickness and size. Durable and hardwearing, too.


Force Furnace Blower to Run on Separate Schedule to Circulate Air

You should be able to wire a thermostat to R, G, and C on the fan control relay and have it control the fan
According to the wiring diagram on your furnace, the fan relay selects between AUTO operation (where the blower thermostat in the plenum controls the fan) and always-on operation, so you should have no issues wiring your new thermostat to the R, G, and C terminals on the fan relay so that it can "take over" the fan if desired.


All the wiring is in THHN wires inside metal conduit.  Since the metal conduit carries the ground, there's no need for any ground wires, therefore no need for any ground bus.
"That was easy..."
Note that nobody puts in metal conduit for their health.  They use metal conduit because the municipality requires it.  So if you are DIYing electrical and got all your knowledge off Youtube or books at the store, you may have used the popular Romex/NM cable. If so, you'll have to contact your local inspector's office and ask them what is required, and upgrade to that if called for.
It can be frustrating to have to learn a second method after learning a first one and doing the work... but really, conduit is a much better setup and much more maintainable and easy to change/upgrade.  Once you get the hang of it, you'll be smug about using conduit :)

Note that several of the circuits in your panel are sharing a neutral.  (twice as many hots as neutrals in some pipes).  The breakers on the 2 hots need to have a "handle tie" between them, or, use a 2-pole 240V breaker of that same amperage.

If you really need a ground bar, then the manufacturer's label will specify certain accessory ground bar models which are designed to bolt right into the holes pre-drilled in the panel.


You can probably get custom built sky lights made up but I would strongly suggest not doing that. Skylights eventually need replacing as they age due to either clouding up or the seals give out due to thermal expansion/contractions. Finding a replacement for a custom unit can be a big pain.

Standard sky lights are made to fit between standard rafter spacings. The customization that you propose could interfere with how the roof is framed at the valley (which you called a bend).

What I have done in the past to make sky lights appear bigger than they actually are is to make the "tunnel" from the roof down to the interior ceiling have sloped sides down to a bigger opening size in the ceiling. This works especially well if the house is built with rafters that are NOT trusses. The ceiling joist spacing in the area needs to be widened to the desired width but this can be done by someone experienced with framing.

If the roof is made of trusses then the "tunnel" can be tapered in the spaces between the rafters but left with straight down walls parallel to the sides of the roof trusses.


Duct static pressure vs ambient air pressure

The fan in an air handler is typically stated to have a flow rate at a given static pressure (e.g. page 7 of the Lennox CBX25UH air handler specifications here). In my experience, almost all pressures in HVACR are stated in terms of gauge pressure; as you suspected, 0.5 in w.c. is a gauge pressure (generally noted as in w.g.). Some fan flow rates are stated in terms of total static pressure, where the evaporator, heater core, filter, duct friction loss, diffuser pressure drop, etc. contribute and must be taken into account when sizing the blower package.

The higher the external static pressure, the lower the air flow rate--the system pressure is a measure of resistance to the flow created by the fan. For external static pressure, the major contributors are friction loss in the duct work and at the diffuser. CaptiveAire (an exhaust hood manufacturer) has a good explanation of total, static, and velocity pressure here. The ASHRAE fundamentals handbook also has an extensive section on duct work, but unfortunately is not freely available online--you may be able to find a copy at your local library or an older version at a discount book store (the duct chapter has not changed much for this purpose).

The fan creates a low pressure region on one side (return) and a high pressure region on the other (supply). If you have a very large static pressure (i.e. high friction), you will have a low resulting velocity pressure and low resulting air flow rate. To simplify design, manufacturers state the fan's capacity to overcome a given static pressure with a resultant flow rate. Unless your static pressure is so large that the fan stalls or operates outside of its stable region (see this page on fan curves), you will not damage the air handler, but you will reduce the air flow rate and waste energy.

Assuming you are using a device which can measure the static and dynamic/velocity pressure (e.g. pitot tube), you will ideally have a constant total pressure at all parts of the system (this concept is part of Bernoulli's principle, pressure drop due to friction does represent energy loss and is added to one side of the equation when comparing two states). In your scenario, the diffuser represents an obstruction to the flow, so you will have a higher static pressure and lower velocity pressure before the diffuser. The region outside of the diffuser is at a lower pressure relative to the duct, so the energy represented by the static pressure component becomes part of the velocity component, resulting in a greater fluid velocity. If you were to close all of the diffusers, you would create a very large static pressure on the supply side of the system and would lower the flow rate. You can measure pressure at any point in the system and will get the same total pressure (minus energy loss due to friction). Immediately at the supply side of the air handler, the energy (and pressure) is highest, near the diffuser, you have experienced some energy loss due to friction.

For diagnostic purposes, it can be useful to measure pressure along the supply side to determine if you have excess friction loss or, more commonly, duct leakage.


A post set in the normal way but with only 200 mm depth won't be very secure.
Call the underground utility locating/marking service, if one exists in your area, and then dig your post holes carefully. It may turn out that the buried lines do not conflict with your plan or that your plan can be adjusted to work around them.
You can definitely trade depth of the post for mass of the footing. A concrete slab sitting on the surface (no ground penetration at all) will support a very large mailbox. For example, cluster mailboxes like those below are commonly bolted to a section of flatwork. (image credit: https://kentonbrothers.com/generalinfo/cluster-mailboxes/)

Your "wide shallow concrete footings" sounds similar to this idea. If a large concrete surface at ground level doesn't suit you then you could put it below ground. Excavate a large but shallow hole nearly to the buried cables, pour a concrete slab (or place a precast concrete pad), attach posts, and then replace soil over it so that only the posts rise above ground.


Is it necessary to use GFCI receptacle with AFCI/GFCI combo breaker?

If you have a circuit where you need both AFCI and GFCI protection for some reason, yes, these breakers are fine to use, and no, you do not need additional GFI receptacles. That would be redundant and waste $$$.

Yes, you definitely would need to go to the breaker panel to reset a tripped breaker. There is no such thing as a "remote reset".

You also should test them once a month or so.


Are air coolers as effective as air conditioners?

Those air coolers or swamp coolers as they are sometimes called, will only work in an area with very low humidity. They use what is called "evaporative cooling" to achieve a lower air temperature and while operating produce a lot of humidity.  They will not produce air temperatures that are as cold as an airconditioning unit but they will lower the room temperature somewhat.
About 55 years ago, my soon to be "father-in-law" bought one of these units for use in Pittsburgh, Pa. His unit could be filled with both ice and water. He turned it on and said, "look how cold the air is". Yes, it was cold but the walls had streaks on them from the water that was condensing and running down the walls. Enough said!


Name for wooden board that supports fascia, drip edge, soffit, and gutter?

What you see exposed in that picture is the fascia board. There is usually a fascia cover board on most homes as well. However, your fascia is covered with siding. I would recommend determining what is actually causing the rot and repairing that first. I see a huge issue in your photos. Your shingle overhang is way too short in places. It appears that some places have no overhang at all. Your shingles need to hang at least 1/2"-3/4" past the drip edge. When shingles are not hanging past the drip edge, the water will simply run over and under the drip edge and into your fascia material below.


What’s the best way to cut the bottom of my door?

I'm not surprised that tore away from the edge of the work-piece.  Here are some ideas to get a better cut:
Get a fresh finish-cut saw blade.  The blade shown in your picture is well-worn.
Put something beneath the door while cutting it to avoid tear-out.  If you were using a table saw, the table itself would be helping, except this cut is so narrow it would depend on your table saw configuration.  Since you're using a circular saw instead, get a piece of scrap plywood to set the cut area on top of.  Set the saw blade depth so it cuts into the plywood slightly, but not all the way through it.


Help me understand electricity - is the neutral always dangerous?

The water pressure/flow analogy is, unfortunately, a common but very imperfect one. If we insist on using it, voltage is something like pressure and current is something like flow rate.

The key concept you're missing is that you need a circuit, not a single wire.

Voltage, like pressure in the pipe, is always measured relative to some reference point. If you were perfectly insulated otherwise, you could hold the hot wire all day and not do yourself any harm, as birds on high-tension wires demonstrate on a regular basis. In the electrical analogy, this is like a capped pipe, or a connection into a tank where the outside pressure is the same as that coming from the pipe. You can extend that pipe or enlarge the tank, but as long as the counter-pressure from the cap or surroundings equals the pressure coming in, no current flows. (I'm oversimplifying like mad, but that's inherent in the faulty model.)

Only when there's somewhere for the water, or electrons, to go will you get current. In a properly designed circuit, that's the neutral, which in the water analogy we can almost think of almost as a drain pipe. If we were talking about DC, you could think of the return/neutral path as a drain pipe; to make that idea work with AC we have to remember that the whole system is sealed, current flows both direction, and we get our current from water sloshing back and forth in the loop of pipes rather than any one drop of water flowing all the way around the loop.

It's current, not voltage, that does the actual work. But voltage ("pressure") is what causes current to flow.

(Of course if you poke a hole in the pipe and let current flow in another direction -- not just stopping at you but through you to a ground, for example -- the voltage will happily do its "work" on you, which is why it's dangerous. Ditto for short circuits, where the "work" goes into heating up the wire and potentially starting a fire.)

Your electric meter measures the current, not voltage. Until the circuit is complete and there's a path from hot to neutral (or, in the bad case, to ground), no current flows and the meter just sits there. When current is flowing, the meter uses a bit of the energy from that current to advance itself; a gentle current spins the meter slowly, a strong current spins it more quickly. In an AC system, the meter is set up to measure both directions of the "sloshing", or to act like a ratchet so it ignores one direction, and again you get a measurement proportional to how much current is being used.

As I keep grumbling, this analogy really is not a very good one, because it leads to misunderstandings like yours. I've forced it a bit farther to answer your questions... but really, the best answer is to stop thinking of electricity by analogy and start thinking of it as its own thing, and just learn how it behaves.


If you have drywall in the shower that has failed due to the moisture you need to replace it.  If the corner is wet and failed you will likely need to replace the adjacent wall too.

At the very least with access in the back you are looking at installing a new valve.  You can troubleshoot yours but for $30 you can get a builder's grade (what you have) or $100 you can get a nice shower/tub valve.  This needs to be swapped out and the connections.

After you swap valve I would leave that open for a while.  You can inspect the wall and make sure it dried out and you don't have mold growing.  Just know that there is a pretty high chance of this wall failing but really no need to do it now as you should be able to install new valve without hurting it.

Note:  If you do not want to retile now I would suggest using pex/sharkbite as you can just take them off to install new boards.  I would definitely not weld your copper to valve unless you are doing tile at the same time.


From the First Alert web page FAQ for this model:

  Q: What is the proper placement of smoke alarms?

  A: It is important that you have the proper placement for your smoke alarms. Install your alarms at least 20 feet from appliances like furnaces and ovens, which produce combustion particles. Alarms should be at least 10 feet from high humidity areas like showers and laundry rooms, and at least 3 feet from heat/AC vents. Be sure to install a smoke alarm in each bedroom, one at the top of each stairwell, and one on every level.

Sticking with the same brand for compatibility of hardwired devices (I have no connection to First Alert), you might want to replace that particular device (only the one near the kitchen) with:

First Alert BRK Brands Hardwired 120-Volt AC/DC Heat Alarm with Battery Backup - HD6135FB

  This First Alert HD6135FB Hardwired Heat Alarm is a great add-on for crawl spaces, laundry rooms, garages, bathrooms, kitchens, or other applications not suitable for smoke alarm installations. This heat alarm features advanced rate-of-rise sensing technology. The alarm sounds if either the temperature reaches 135 degrees Fahrenheit or if the temperature rises more than 15 degrees Fahrenheit in one minute.

This type of device would not be suitable for replacement of the alarms near bedrooms, as there you really need a smoke alarm (smoke itself can be dangerous, plus you need that extra warning where people might be sleeping). But for a kitchen area this is ideal as it will activate from heat if you have a real fire situation while avoiding nuisance trips from frying, etc.


Do I need to replace cupped/curled plank sheathing in my wall?

Mold is rot.  Bleaching was smart.  A Mildecide is what you want.  That siding I believe is called shiplap.  Incredible, tough, tight siding.  I am not sure about the other layers, kind of confused.

You need ventilation through or between the walls to completely stop the rot and mold.

If you could draw a simple 'cross section' of your home's walls, that would help me.  Dry rot is tough to 'see'.  Someone that understands what to look for should be right there with you to go through your home.  I've hired these home inspectors who work for you not the bank.  And I've built 30 custom homes!  I don't know very much about old construction and these inspectors are trained to look at old, aging structural members. They know about the old construction techniques.  Worth every cent!  I hired one for $120 to go through my 4000 square foot log home to check the foundation and other things such as proper blocking, heated floors, roofing, septic...I learned so very much in a few hours and I was already considered an expert!

Dry rot is like a cancer and you really want to know what is rotting and what is not, but you have to have an expert right there.  I would not take out shiplap unless there was dry rot.  Please let me know what you find when you call a private home inspector.  This definitely warrants a few more calls and appointments before making decisions.


Water leaching up through basement floor

It may be the case that the old sump is filling up. I'd suggest opening up the floor and investigating as it's the only why to find out what's happening and fix the problem.

You could coat the floor with a water repellent sealer. This may stop the water from coming through the floor, but would not fix the underlying problem.

Also, check to make sure no household drains or exterior downspouts are being piped to the old sump location. This is easier said than done, but something to consider.

Otherwise, the white powdery substance is most likely efflorescence. This is a condition where salts are being moved out of the concrete due to the moisture moving through it. It's harmless to you but shows signs of a problem in the floor (likely due to the water).


How can I fix this gap between bookcases I made?

Swap their positions.

Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.

Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.

If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.


Years ago there was a product for wood working that was like a stick of plastic that you melted into gouges.  It had multiple colors and if it is still available you could probably find it at a woodworking site.


You may want to look into towel bars. They are typically designed with one piece that screws into a wall, using an appropriate screw (into a stud or masonry) or anchor + screw (into a hollow wall) and then a second piece that slips over the part in the wall and tightens with a screw around the edge.

However, it you are really set on a handle that only screws in from behind (which is typical of cabinet and drawer handles), then you can:

Cut a piece of wood a couple inches tall and slightly wider than the handle
Paint the wood to match the tile or contrast with it, depending on the tile, trim, cabinets, etc. of the kitchen. Easier to paint the wood before installation than after installation.
Attach the handle to the wood, as if it were a drawer/cabinet front
Locate two studs and use screws to attach the wood to the wall, or use appropriate heavy-duty anchors + screws to attach the wood to the wall.


Can I run an unrelated electrical cable under a bathtub?

There is no code telling you that you cannot do this.  Electric is ran under plumbing in walls all the time and that probably has a lot better chance of getting wet than under a tub.  I personally would run it inside pvc under the tub but I don't think it matters.  A GFCI outlet also sounds like a good idea.


How can I extract more heat from my enclosed wood stove?

You should definitely run it with the flue open, all that smoke/CO needs to go outside, not in the house. You mentioned two vents on the bottom. Those are likely there to allow you to close the front and allow the fire to still get air. As SqlACID mentioned, spending $100 or so on a reputable chimney sweep to come take a look at it in person would be a good idea; they would be able to help you use it to its best advantage.

I would experiment with closing the front and see what effect it has on the burning rate as well as the heat produced. It is also a good idea to try to move the warmth produced by the stove into the rest of the house, so running a fan to pull that warm air away might also be something to try.

What make/model of stove do you have? I might try googling the make/model to see what comes up on how to best use it.