Galvanized fasteners into exterior concrete - good enough for 20+ years? Or stainless?

My first deck, years and years ago, I used galvanized lag bolts and they corroded after about 7 years. My next one I used the best deck screws available, guaranteed for the life of the deck, etc. When I had to replace a plank after 4 years, the screws were rusted and snapped off when I tried to remove them. The corrosion in both cases really hastened the rotting of the wood. My next deck I used all stainless steel screws and they have held up great. I replaced a plank after 5 years due to warping and when I removed the screws, they looked like new. There was no rotting around the screw holes either. I'd use stainless screws for the wood to wood and stainless lag screws and lag shields for the wood to concrete. Make sure you get lumber that's meant to be in contact with the ground or concrete.


How can I upgrade an electrical panel if there's not enough space around the panel to meet current codes?

The wall space clearance requirement of 30" is from the floor to ceiling. And the panel does NOT have to be centered. Unless you have like a 6' ceiling or a lot of things like counter tops in the way etc, I don't see why this would be a problem.

The process of upgrading from 100A to 200A is not just a swap of your panel. It's a little complex and most definitely has to be permitted. It is doable yourself. In any case, it's good to understand the steps whether you do it yourself or hire an electrician:

Check with the utility company to see if your "drop" (wire form the pole to the house) is capable of 200A. Normally, a utility company will have to upgrade this themselves. But sometimes you'll have to pay.
If you have a separate meter box with main breaker and the separate panel in the house, the line between the two will likely need to be upgraded to 200A line.
You will need a 200A new panel in the house and all new breakers that are up to code.
You will need a new meter box and 200A compliant meter from the power company.
You will likely have to upgraded / bring other things into compliance to pass inspection. Such as, the ground wires. Many areas require you ground to your main water supply coming thru the foundation along with the two grounding rods. You may need to install special breakers if your bathrooms aren't GFI'd for those circuits.

Basically, you'll have to pull the permits. Have the power company pull the meter which will shut off the power. Install all the new equipment with the power off and then get it inspected. In my area of the country you can get what's called an "open circuit permit." Basically, you can hotwire your new 200A meter box so that you can get your power back on while you wait for an inspection and for the power company to install the new meter (they generally won't install it until you've passed inspection). This just means you're running power for a while with no meter and being charged an "average" rate.

I am pretty handy and wouldn't tackle this myself. Though, there are some good youtube walkthrus and it can be done. If you price it out, keep in mind the prices will vary wildly. I had my house done for $3000 and that included eliminated a remote panel in my basement and a few other upgrades aside from the 100A > 200A change. But, i got several other quotes and they were: $4800, $12000 and $6700. Like I said, get lots of quotes! Figure on at least $3000.


Background:
The 20A fuse is a Type S, meaning it is a "time delay" type fuse that allows things with motors to get to speed without making the fuse blow. The 30A fuse is a Type W with is not time delay, it is a "fast acting" type of fuse.
Best guess...
The furnace originally had Type S 20A fuses, but something was wrong so fuses kept blowing and after getting frustrated (but not finding out why), someone just put a larger Type W fuse in there so that it would not blow. Totally the wrong thing to do and is one of the biggest problems with fuses, which is why they are not used in houses any more.
Some time later your house was upgraded to using circuit breakers (circuit breakers would not have been used in 1924) and the installer wisely put a 20A breaker on that circuit, rendering the fuses irrelevant (assuming the wire is 12ga or larger).
But... here's another potential problem. Your drawing seems to imply that there is a 1 pole 20A breaker on the one wire feeding this, then the photo seems to show that there is a fuse (the 30A) on the white wire, which would be typically indicating the neutral circuit. It is illegal and DANGEROUS to have a fuse on the neutral circuit! If the breaker is 2 pole and this is a 240V circuit going to the furnace, then it's fine, other than the use of a white wire (white is only to be used for neutral circuits).
If none of this makes sense to you, I suggest getting a qualified electrician to look at it and, if possible, just remove those fuses.


How can I efficiently heat a bonus room above a detached garage?

Geothermal Heat Pump
Efficiency
If upfront cost is of no concern, a Geothermal heat pump is the most efficient heating/cooling system. According to the Department of Energy, geothermal heat pumps can be between 300 - 600% efficient.
Financing
There may be government programs available to help fiance the installation of the system, as well as state programs.
Payback
Some sources estimate a payback period as short as 3 years, though actual results may vary. If you switch your main house over as well, use the system for hot water, and take advantage of government programs. The payback period could actually be quite short.
Electric Baseboard Heaters
Efficiency
Since electric heat is 100% efficient, every ounce of electricity used it converted to heat.
Financing
If there is adequate space and power available in the service panel, an electric baseboard heating system is fairly inexpensive to install.
Payback
Depending on the cost of electricity in your area, electric heat may or may not save you money over other heating options.
Natural Gas Room Heater
Efficiency
Since it's a smaller area, a standalone natural gas forced air system may not make sense. However, a smaller natural gas room heater (or a few) might make sense. Natural gas room heaters can be between 65 - 100% efficient (depending on the heater), so they can be quite efficient.
Financing
As with electric room heaters, natural gas room heaters will be fairly cheap to install.
Payback
Again, depending on the cost of fuel. A natural gas room heater may or may not save you money over other heating options.

More Info:
The U.S. Energy Information Administration has a Heating Fuel Comparison Calculator (Xls) that might be useful.


Can a tub and shower share the same drain?

Of course they can as long as you have proper drainage angle and double venting and traps.  If this is an installation of a new fixture, you need a permit and a master plumber to sign for the permit.  Get a plumber and do it right. Just asking the question tells me you don't know what to do and could get into trouble.  Saving a few bucks and doing it wrong will cost you so much more in the short and long run. Some things have to be left to the licensed professionals.


How to install a single pole humidity sensor on a 2 way switch setup

That's a common problem - integrating the functionality of a smart device with a multi-way switch.   This is often confusion over what the desired behavior is; often confusing electronics with a butler.  Consider.

the other switch is in the downward position.  What do you want the smart device to do?
the other switch is in the upward position.  What do you want the smart device to do?
the smart device has turned the fan on, and you throw the other switch.  What do you want to happen?
the smart device has turned the fan OFF, and you throw the other switch.  What do you want to happen?
if you manually turn it on, should it continue running forever?
if you manually turn it off, obviously the smart device shouldn't immediately turn it back on.  Ok, so when should it go back to automatic operation?

See, it gets very messy very quickly.   Of course there are obvious answers that make sense to a butler, but how do you make electronics do that?   It's not that easy.  You are better off to choose one control method and stick with it.


We have a problem like this. Our central vacuum unit is located in our detached garage with a pipe going from the garage to the house underground (it's about 20 feet from the house to the garage). We found that the roots of some trees cracked the pipe and water was seeping into the pipe and getting sucked into the canister. Is any of your pipe underground?


Adhesive for PVC-glass in a high temp situation

I think making a strong, lasting bond between glass and PVC is actually very difficult.  With the temperature changes, you need something that will be flexible / elastic enough to tolerate the uneven expansion of PVC and glass.  It will have to make a vapor tight seal that holds up under pressure, and stands up to the mechanical stress involved.  There may be specialty adhesives available for industrial use that would work, but it will not be easy to find.

I think you'll have more luck if you look for a fitting that makes a seal through the lid, with silicone gaskets / o rings you should be able to make a satisfactory lid, but it will be fragile, glass isn't ideal.  If you could find something with a lid that isn't glass, everything will get much easier.


Installing spotlights but hole in ceiling is too big

There should be a couple mounting holes in the junction box in the ceiling, but they look like they're covered in plaster. I'm not sure how there was a light here before (if there was) but anyway, you'll have to figure out where the mounting holes are.

Here's what the box looks like without all the plaster in the way:

You can probably look or reach into the box (with the power off!) to find them, then either drill or chip out the plaster so you can get at the mounting holes.

Next, screw the mounting strap into the box. You'll have to remove it from the light fixture first. Here's one with the same style mounting strap (but different style of fixture):

It looks to me the sizing is correct, but if it's not, you can get adapters to allow different spacings to be used.


Is it possible to add fluoride to my tap water?

I know this has gotten a bit off topic, but in an attempt to answer the question - according to my wife, a hygienist - your best bet is to use:

Fluoridated toothpaste
Take a fluoride supplement

However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water and I am not asking about these alternative methods.

Too much fluoride can harm you. After researching this morning, I don't see a way to add it to actual tap water coming out of a faucet as your looking for. Trying to calculate water pressure, flow rate, storage and release time of fluoride tablets would be rather difficult I think. Similar to trying to add a multi vitamin to tap water stream. To little and it'll be ineffective; to much and it would make you sick.
This article may help

According to the CDC, "if fluoride levels in your drinking water are lower than 0.7 mg/L, your child's dentist or pediatrician should evaluate whether your child could benefit from daily fluoride supplements."  The American Dental Association has a standard dosing schedule for fluoride supplements. Fluoride can be given in liquid form or in tablets and is usually taken twice a day and can be mixed with juice, milk, water, or food.
In your conversation with your dentist, you may find that supplements are not necessary if your child drinks a lot of tap water at school or a day care, and if your toothpaste has fluoride and is used on a regular basis. Have an open conversation with your dentist about how to get enough fluoride if you are drinking mostly bottled water, or if you use any alternative to tap water.

Ultimately, discuss this with your hygienist (it's more of the hygienist's responsibilty to answer this then the dentist's) and see if they can recommend a treatment plan or alternatives outside of the dental office.


Reparing rock lath plaster around thermostat wires in wall...need troubleshooting advice!

From your original picture, here's how I would have repaired it:

Use some small pieces of (scrap) wood as strapping. Big enough to form a good support but small enough so you can get them into the (massive) hole for the wires. Somewhere between 3/8" and 3/4" would work best.
Anchor the strapping with drywall screws. Ideally they can be placed so they're covered by the thermostat. You can fill these in with compound or spackle if you want to.
Just use regular wood screws (eg, #8 x 1.25" or 1.5") to mount the thermostat to the strapping, no need for drywall anchors.


Moisture is either coming up from below (a rising water table) or its coming from the surrounding ground water in the saturated soil.

If it comes up from a rising water table, it will enter the basement space from below through the crack between the foundation wall and slab.

It appears from your pictures that moisture is at the BOTTOM OF THE WALL. Therefore, the perf pipe needs to be installed at the bottom of the wall.

If it comes from the surrounding ground water, it COULD enter the living space through the wall, especially if the EXTERIOR side of the foundation wall is not sealed properly.
Either way the moisture enters the living space it will need to be collected and disposed. I think the best way to collect it is on the exterior side of the foundation wall in drainrock and a perforated pipe laid 6”-8” below the interior basement slab.

To keep the subsurface water from seeping through the wall, I recommend installing a moisture barrier on the exterior side of the foundation wall and install a 2” thick plastic mesh on the wall to allow water to flow down to the perf pipe. If dirt is allowed to be backfilled against the wall, the dirt could hold the moisture against the wall giving it a chance to seep through the wall.

Once collected it needs to be disposed by extending a solid pipe over an embankment or in a collection well and pumped away.

Remember, water flows in the direction of least resistance.


The term they are supposed to use is Minimum Circuit Amapcity (MCA) and/or Maximum Over Current Protection (MOCP). In your case the MCA is 30A, but they apparently didn't provide an MOCP, just a "suggested" one. I think you are fine with a 40A breaker, so long as your conductors in the wall to the receptacle are rated for that and at #8, they are.

The rating on any circuit in the NEC is based on "continuous" current, defined as 3 hours or more. On a stovetop, it's highly unlikely that you would have ALL burners set at FULL output for 3 hours or more.


It looks like the whole valve will require replacement. The valve handle assembly looks like it was originally attached to the ball in the valve by a press fit on this part of the handle:

It is not at all clear how you could re-install the press fit part without the original type of tooling used by the valve manufacturer.


From the National Fire Protection Association:

  Smoke alarms installed in the basement should be installed on the
  ceiling at the bottom of the stairs leading to the next level.

I presume this is to detect smoke as it rises up the stairs. I have also read on the detector instruction sheet NOT to install smoke/monoxide detector closer than 15 feet from your furnace. I assume this is to reduce false alarms. If you have any doubts, you could certainly install more than one detector.

I have a similar layout in that I have a finished basement along with a separate utility room. I put a detector by the stairs as well as one in the utility room, about 10 feet from the furnace. No false alarms. Haven't had a fire to test this setup, thankfully.


How should I secure spindles on a baserail without a groove?

The plough (or plow, so I have been told it is called) under the hand rail makes for a simple, secure way to attach a baluster  to the rail. If the cut is a little off, the cut is hidden by the sides and the fillets.

For the bottom fit, it only needs to be cut neatly to fit the bottom plate, if that is what you have and secure in place with a few 4D (1 1/2") or 6D (2") finish nails or a couple of trim head screws after pilot holes are drilled.

Since there is most likely a hole where the metal baluster used to be, each of the 2 nails will go on either side of the drilled hole since the wood baluster will cover the old hole. If a long enough trim head screw is used, say 2 1/4"-3" long you may only need the one screw to hold it at the bottom. The longer screw will span through the old hole and grab wood on the other side.


How to Identify an Unknown or Poisonous Gas

Every time me and my colleagues enter this room if the meeting is over ~30 mins we leave with symptoms of fatigue, dizziness and a reduced mental ability, it takes about 1-3 hours to overcome these symptoms.

This sounds very much like Carbon Monoxide(CO) poisoning. It saturates your blood, which slowly suffocates you by preventing your blood from carrying oxygen (it binds better to your hemoglobin). It takes your body some time to recover from it.

You've covered a lot of sources, but does anyone else in the building have something that burns... well, any kind of gas? CO is colorless and odorless, and if someone has, say, an improper venting of their gas heater/stove/grill it could very well be dumping CO exhaust into your area.

  one subterranean level below our meeting room

If this is a garage, it could also be a potential CO source. Many older buildings are not sealed, and if this is an underground garage it could easily concentrate the CO and let it seep into your area.

Another potential source is a natural gas leak. The gas company adds Mercaptan to give it its distinctive smell, but Mercaptan is heavier than air, while natural gas can rise. If a natural gas leak were in the basement, it's possible the natural gas makes it up without the Mercaptan.

Buy a Carbon Monoxide detector

They're not terribly expensive and it can tell you if that's your problem. If you buy a combo smoke detector unit, you can just keep it as an extra smoke detector as well.


Electrical wiring methods , Acceptable or Not-Acceptable

Above 8’ the Romex or nmb can be exposed , the only thing I see not 100% is the staple with the wire sideways.  It could be 14-3 and round wire but the other pieces look flat so other than that it would meet minimum code but not a nice job that’s for sure. You don’t show the cable going in the garage door opener or light if there are clamps that would be the only thing left to check. We can’t see if there is a nail plate in that notched ceiling joist maybe that could be a violation where the wire goes in between or is it just going through the Sheetrock then it would be ok. The fan box ?
Edit
The Romex should be nailed within 12” but I think my early thought about a nail plate may be wrong as it goes through the ceiling and someone put mudd over it. If it was stapled there it may have been ok.


Types of dangerous sparks inside drilling machine that require to stop work immediately

You know the ordinary low level sparks which dance across the commutator? And you know the ordinary sparks from metalworking?   Any sparks other than those are dangerous and a sign it's time to stop using the machine.

The amount of sparks has everything to do with the health of that particular set of brushes and commutator, and little to do with the make, age, class, etc. of the machine.


How can I repair a slow leak in my concrete fountain?

Google Hydraulic cement (HC), you should be able to purchase 5 lbs or so for less than $20.

Tools needed:  2Q bucket (dont expect to be able to clean it 100%), margin trowel (for mixing and scooping), 3" putty knife, rubber gloves, paint scraping implements (goggles, if you use a wire wheel)

Remove as much of the paint as possible, especially in the bowl area.
Dampen the area.  Residual water is not a problem for HC
Following package direction, mix a small amount(1lb) of HC and working quickly (you only have 3-5 min for most versions), push a handful into the suspected bowl area.  Smooth and taper the "plug".

Test the bowl immediately.  The nice thing about HC is it can even be placed underwater and will cure.  This treatment will work below the bowl, also.  Be sure to carefully remove any loose cement, as well as paint

If the patch is not working well enough, a masonry waterproofer (to be distinguished from a masonry sealer) would be the next step.  I can personally recommend the Drylock brand (no financial connection).  The powered version
is nice because you only makeup what you need.  It is paintable, so the whole fountain can be redone.

The company's recommendation for the paintable waterproofing is to etch the surface if efflorescence is present.  Efflorescence is a whiteish deposit on the surface of masonry that are a combination of minerals.  The minerals will interfere with the waterproofing binding to the cement.  You can try to dissolve it  with 100% vinegar.  If that doesn't work, you can use either their etcher or muriatic acid.  This is a highly caustic, acidic product.  You need hand, eye, lung, hair and clothing protection from the concentrated liquid (treat the diluted form with great respect, also).  US Government data sheet on Hydrocloric acid

Outdoors is a given, a box fan is helpful, acid rated, charcoal activated respirator, water hose, box of baking soda for any spills.  Thoroughly wet the fountain and the rinse off area.

It must be diluted by the following method:

Add the acid to the water in a bucket (NOT the water to the acid)  This will minimize the reaction and safely dilute the acid without boiling.  Most etching recommendations suggest a 10:1 dilution (10 parts water to 1 part acid)  This would be starting with as 30% HCL Muratic acid.  Increase the starting water as necessary if your Muratic acid is more concentrated.

Allow the acid to work for the recommended time (The salts should disappear in 5min or less.) Then you can neutralize with a gallon of water with a box of baking soda (you might just have this on hand ahead of time).  Follow with a water rinse.  Allow to dry overnight and then coat with the Drylok.


The venting for the furnace and water heater have to be separate from any other venting. You do not want backfeed from your furnace/water heater in through your range hood.


What is the difference between lab Accreditation and Certification when selecting a drinking water test?

This may help. Without examples we can't provide be sure. Sounds like DGS does both in Virginia. Probably, they accredit the labs as following all standard operating procedures to be a competent lab and they certify that the test they use is sensitive to detect lead if lead is present, and specific when not.


How to (roughly) calculate torque for cordless drill clutch settings?

yes as you stated You could buy a torque wrench clamp it to a work bench or put it in vise and then go through all of the settings on you drill to get an idea of the torque each setting provides,

but then you have the CORRECT TOOL FOR THE JOB and would no longer need the incorrect tool ( drill/driver ) for the tasks you are performing.


How do I connect the wires inside a conduit junction box?

You piqued my interest and I have a screwdriver.

Here's how a professional electrician in the UK made joins in wiring in my office building constructed 2001 (so as per regulations at that date).

Not all junctions contain joins. Some do.

So yes, use terminal strips (blocks) like these - all DIY stores have them, some ironmongers and larger supermarkets too. Make sure they are rated for the current they'll carry.

As you know, Part P of current UK building regulations apply to DIY work on wiring connected to mains supply.


Use the right colors
First off, if you're wiring to US standards, you've got the wire colors wrong.
Green and bare copper are both used to identify an equipment grounding conductor.  White is typically used as a grounded (neutral) conductor (grey is also acceptable), though can be used as ungrounded (hot) if there are appropriate markings at each termination.  From there, basically anything that's not green, bare, white, or gray, can be used as an ungrounded (hot) conductor.
Wiring L14-30 Plug
To properly wire a NEMA L14-30 device, you'll need 4 conductors.

Proper Wiring
In your situation, I'd pull an extra red or black conductor from the panel to the receptacle location and remove either the green or bare conductor. Then you'll connect the original black conductor from the breaker, to X on the receptacle. Connect the new red/black conductor from the other terminal of a double pole 30 ampere breaker, to Y on the receptacle.  Next connect the white wire from the neutral bus bar in the panel, to the N terminal of the receptacle. Finally, connect the green/bare conductor from the grounding bus bar, to the G terminal on the receptacle.


Question about wood expansion for V-groove/shiplap boards

Barring very unusual circumstances, they are more likely to shrink from the "as installed" state than expand from it.
If they do expand, the small and sloped contact area works in your favor.


How should holes in a crawlspace liner be fixed?

It is a common practice to patch seams and holes in the vapor barrier with tape. The type of tape you need is often called house wrap tape. You can get it at your local home improvement store.

If you use the correct tape, then you shouldn't have any issues with it.


Can a Smart light switch be used for a Gas fireplace insert?

Probably not. On the gas fireplaces I have installed the on off switch was a millivolt contact. If this is the case there will be no power to run the smart switch unless it is battery powered.
If the fireplace is a 120v control then in most cases you will need a neutral.  If you provide the model of the fireplace and the smart switch we could provide more information. There are some smart switches that do not require neutrals but depending on the type of control for the fireplace even those might not work.


In either case you have a 10" duct as the bottleneck in the trunk line. Expanding it downstream won't get you much in terms of flow. I'd go with Plan A.

Perhaps a more important question: Is the inlet attached to the fireplace somehow? You'll probably be disappointed if you just pull air from one room to another. The differential would be so small that you won't see much benefit. In fact, the air movement may make those rooms actually feel cooler.


Do I need to replace motor stator if windings are broken?

A broken wire means that electrical current will not be able to pass through the winding. Many of the newer washers use these large diameter stators with multiple pole pieces (the one in my Kenmore washer is ~12" dia with 36 separate magnetic poles). They often have three windings that are organized so that the same wire is wound around every third pole. Just one wire broken means that one third of the poles will not get energized by the motor drive controller.

The broken wire would have to be repaired or replaced if there is any hope of salvaging the stator. In addition your pictures seem to show multiple damage locations including parts of the enamel wire insulation being knocked or scraped off. This is not a good sign as adjacent turns can short out. Shorted turns on one pole piece can imbalance the motor as the rotor part of the motor turns in operation.

I just had to replace the bearings in my top loader washer and this required removing the motor assembly that is pictured below. There is a good solid reason that the service instructions said to carefully remove the stator and place it on a soft towel out of the way while working on the rest of the bearing replacement.


Uh oh. I've just noticed flying termites around my new outdoor office. What is a cost-efficient way to protect it?

For starters, that's a really amazing shed!

As for the termites, they're swarming. This is natural in termite areas. They're looking for wet or rotting wood to start a new nest.

So, odds are you should have nothing to worry about with the new shed, as hopefully none of it is rotting yet. None of your options will really have any impact on swarming termites...and really are only options if you already have a termite problem in your structure.


Installing subfloor and hardwood on top of concrete (2nd story)

I'd go with either a layer of cork or polyiso rigid foam.  Then a floating floor on top.  A nearby residential tower actually requires the cork underlay.  The rigid foam will work just as well at lower cost.

The float floor can be two layers of ply staggered and screwed to each other, or a engineered hardwood product.

See also the "Sound Isolation Store" for great technical details.


How large should a return HVAC duct be relative to the size of the supply?

OK, I have heard from multiple HVAC contractors that a general rule of thumb in a single trunk return, single trunk supply duct system, the RETURN:SUPPLY ratio should be 1:1 or greater.

In other words, the return should always be at least as large as the supply.  And preferably the return should be larger than the supply.


Why CAT 5 cable is run through electrical box with blank faceplate

The person that put the cables in ran drops for that location. There should be some slack so it could be used. Normally there are loops if you pull on the wires there should be some slack as a tight run through the back of a box would be useless. Give the wires a bit of a tug to see if they are just stuck from the paint


Do I need a regulator to connect a tankless water heater to a 20 lb. propane tank?

@Pigrew is right in the comments.  My previous answer was wrong and dangerous. Do not supply 30 psi of propane to a tankless water heater.

New Answer:

According to Rheem (a manufacturer of tankless gas water heaters) and The West Virginia Propane Gas Association, modern homes have a 2 psi supply line from the meter with regulators on each piece of equipment to lower the pressure more.  Older homes could have a much lower pressure from the meter negating the need for regulators on each piece of equipment.

Pressure in a propane tank, large or small, can range between 100 and 200 psi.

An example tankless water heater specs list a maximum gas pressure of .5 psi.

Once we get into pressures this low, people start using the unit inches of WC (Water Column) instead of psi.  The standard pressure that household appliances typically need is 11" WC.

You will need two regulators.

You will need one regulator to take the tank pressure (up to 200 psi) to down to a household line pressure (2psi).  You will also need a regulator to take the household pressure down to the 11" WC needed by your hot water heater.  The reason you need two is because that is a large pressure difference and there are limits to the abilities of regulators.

There is a bit of fudge factor though.  You could get a regulator that outputs 10 psi fir the first one if you can get a regulator with an inlet pressure over 10 psi (and outlet pressure of 11" WC) for the second one.

There is another factor to consider when choosing a regulator: flow rate.

All of this adds up to the suggestion that you call a professional because explosive compressed gas in your home where your family sleeps isn't the best thing to be playing around with.


Measuring humidity through ceramic tile to deduce a course of action

Water penetration is usually destructive, such that damage is detectable without fancy instruments. The tile grout on the outside of the curb would show signs of being wet and/or you might see efflorescence from evaporating moisture. As well as loose tiles, wet floor, etc.

If the shower curb is indeed sloped towards the outside of the enclosure then it was not designed correctly, which is a concern. Put a level on it. In the end, if it's been like that for some time and there are no signs of damage, it may not be something to worry too much about. The detector is not the "be all end all", a few years back inspectors did not even use them.


Three-way switch problem, potentially faulty

If one switch is overriding the other in a three-way circuit, that usually means one of the switches has been hooked up incorrectly.  If you get the common and one of the travellers exchanged, you will see exactly this behavior.

Double-check each switch to make sure you know which contacts are the common and the two selectable terminals, and double-check that the latter two are the ones hooked to the travellers.

(This is not an uncommon error.)


Why do the bedrooms in my home have split switched outlets?

This is a rather easy problem to fix

Modern receptacles have 2 sockets, and a nifty feature -- each side has 2 terminal screws, and a nifty break-off "tab" between them.  Tab in place, the 2 screws are connected so 1 wire can feed both sockets and the second screw can carry power onward to the next socket.  Tab broken off, the 2 screws are separated and the 2 sockets can be controlled individually.

Typically you break off the "hot" tab, and feed one socket with the red wire, the other with the black wire.

You could replace with a socket with the tab not broken off.  Connect only the black (typically always-hot) wire, and simply cap off the red wire with a wire-nut (and tape), or if somehow the old socket was used to splice the supply and onward red wires, join them with a wire nut.

Tenant law prohibits you doing the work yourself without permission.

Landlord law requires them to hire a licensed electrician for any work done in the rental unit.  Residential law requires you to "pull a permit" for any substantial electrical work, but excluded from that is trivial work such as  "changing a receptacle".  So check with your permit issuing authority, but it's likely that merely changing a receptacle is something a licensed electrician is not needed for.  Tell them you want to do it for aesthetic reasons, don't go so far as mentioning the desired change in function.


Recessed Lighting in the garage - Fire Rated Products

This website isn’t setup for recommendations on purchasing items and equipment.
However, you’re missing a better question: How large of hole can I cut in a  1-hour fire fated ceiling before I void the rating?
Yes, you need a 1-hour Fire rated barrier between your garage and a habitable space. However, you are allowed a 6” diameter opening provided the aggregate area does not exceed 144 square inches in any 100 square feet of floor area. (See ICC 712.4.1.1)
If this doesn’t work for you, you can always extend the gypsum board up a few inches between joists and then install a surface mounted light fixture up in that recessed space. (You’ll need a different type light. Rather than a recessed can, maybe use a surface mount fluorescent.)


Why would changing ceiling fan speed cause an AFCI breaker to trip?

Switches generate small, momentary arcs as part of their normal operation; AFCIs are designed to recognize and ignore these momentary arcs.  However, holding the switch between positions (or taking a while to transition between positions) can lead to the arc sustaining itself, which damages the switch contacts and also causes the AFCI to trip because it sees an arc it doesn't recognize as harmless.

In other words: "Doctor, it hurts if I do this!" "Don't do that, then!"


Does my Water-Heater stand need to be metal or fire rated drywall?

There certainly are codes written for how to install appliances, especially gas ones. There is also specific rules for how to install drinking water appliances, so in the course of a Water Heater, you have both.

Here is an example (google) for Las Vegas Nevada. That is just an example. You should check your local county/town ordinance and verify their rules. Also, check your water heater model # and read the manufacturers guidelines.

I'm not too sure why you would use drywall for a stand? Is there a different portion of the question you meant to ask? You would not want to frame a stand out of Drywall. Conversely, Making a stand out of plywood works, but only if it meets code and is well built to hold the load of the water + tank weight + some % buffer (say, 25% SWAG).

Anyways, here is a really good discussion on this very topic here: How high to raise water heater above floor?

Oh, I almost forgot - based on code & manufacturer, you may not have to raise it at all, but the cinder block approach is pretty foolproof.


Old extractor fan hole leaking water into new kitchen

The correct solution for this would be to close off the external vents for this pipe. If weather conditions allow entry of the elements then trying to plug things up internally does not solve the problem. I would remove the old external vent and provide the proper covering whether that be flashing, siding or roofing material.

A very good question is: How are you venting the replacement extractor unit??


Can a boiler water feed / pressure relief valve be repaired?

The short answer: you should replace the relief valve.

The long answer: In general, you should not attempt to repair any pressure relief valve. This valve is the only over-pressure safety in the system.  This should only open if there is a blockage in the system (causing a pressure buildup), or if filling the system with a faulty pressure reducing valve.

Normally these valves fail due to calcium build up on the interior, which is hard to avoid without having a water softening system installed.

I would recommend changing out both the pressure relief valve, and the pressure reducing valve, as it appears to have quite a bit of calcium build up as well (and may have a small leak). To have both replaced would generally cost in the range of $200 to $500, depending if you replaced them yourself or not.  If there are no other leaks or issues with the system, changing both of these valves will solve your zero-pressure issue.


Is there such a thing as an actual 60W draw LED or CFL bulb?

Yes, you're looking for lights with a high lumen output.  Since LED/CFL bulbs don't convert heat to light, the wattage isn't directly proportional to the light output.  As an extreme example, consider that a 2 watt laser is powerful enough to burn some materials, or blind you!

What you'll likely find is that more expensive LED bulbs from lighting specialty stores are brighter than the cheap bulbs you find at your local home improvement store.

There are other characteristics of the bulb other than power which impact the perceived brightness - reflectors are a good example.  A bulb with a wide spread will seem less bright (in a room) than a bulb with a narrow spread since the light is being diffused more.


I doubt this is a motor problem. Sounds more like a thermostat problem, but not the main heater thermostat. The fan has its own control which, according to the manual, starts the fan 5 to 10 minutes after the furnace starts and then it runs until 5 to 10 minutes after the furnace stops. My hunch is that it is temperature-controlled and is cycling too fast at the beginning - i.e., it blows for 2 seconds, which cools down the initial air flow so fast that it turns itself off, then starts again after another 5 seconds, etc. until it runs continuously.
If it has always been this way, contact the manufacturer.
If it used to work correctly and recently started having this problem, a good cleaning may help.
By the way, I find it interesting that the blower kit is optional. 35,000 BTU is quite a bit of heat to generate without a blower. So I would definitely want that fan running well to circulate the heated air.


Help with c wire on American standard air handler

Looking at the schematic...

The red wire is R, while the blue wire is C.


Can I knock down this wall without the whole place collapsing?

You need to get it evaluated by a qualified engineer.  Do not proceed until you have.  The stakes are too high to risk it.


Safe/ less damaging way or method to attach/ screw these wall hook fixtures for easier future removal?

I can't think of a good way to solve your problem with your existing hooks that meet all of your requirements. Instead you should use 3M Command Hooks. They are removable and stick really well, and for your door you can attach as many as you need of them in a row.

Save your existing hooks for when you eventually move out.


that dark stuff is concrete or mortar screed under the tiles.

the light stuff is tile adhesive and grout

You can grout over those triangular bits without causing any problems.


Don't know what country you're in but from a physics perspective you could certainly do it. You seem to know the basics about the depth of the weir. The other things you need to consider is to avoid building an S trap. The tail from the P trap needs to come off of it horizontally with a 1/4" per foot slope to the drain and note the max lengths of pipe below. Sounds as if you've got it.


What can I do about water leaking behind the shower tray?

Tile over green drywall is not waterproof; you will get water migrating through the group and into the drywall. The best thing to do is to tear down tiled walls, put up a new solid backing, and then put a waterproof membrane over the backing. Then tile goes on the backing.

Kerdi is a common backing, and that will be waterproof on top of a drywall backing, though I'd probably use a fiberglass-reinforced version.


Options to keep soil in split-grade backyard

I would use rail road ties to border the yard and fill. I have done this around my driveways where I have crushed rock and I don't want it mixing with the lawn. A single tie would work, I have made flower beds 4' high with ties using rebar to pin them together but you only need 1.


Can’t figure out how to remove cartridge of single handle tub faucet

The stem is held in place by a u-shaped piece of metal.  If you scrape through enough crud, you'll find the bottom of it on the outside of the metal cylinder.  Pull it out with a pair of pliers.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkZad_sHQkQ about 0:50 in is what I'm talking about.


I guess I'll answer my own question to the best of my knowledge thus far.

The max distances from vent to trap have been clarified for me to mean from wet vent to trap, not just dry vent.

So the ipc code states that the toilet can be anywhere as long as there is a vent because it self syphons. I just have to reroute it so it doesn't drain past the tub downstream, which is also being wet vented.

The distance for the tub is within ipc spec as long as the lav's wet vent portion of ths drain is at least 2" in diameter.


How to get discount prices for replacement parts

I used to buy my appliance parts at Amre Supply, and never bought anywhere else, so this is only one data point.  But one time I was flirting with the checkout girl and she said "you know, if you make a business account you'll get about a 40% discount on nearly everything".  All it took was an online application and a business card, which I had for my computer software business.  I just checked the "other" box on the "what kind of business" question.

After that, I just identified by business name and got the discount.

And lest you think it was my James Bond Socializing Skills that got me a business account, I just printed the application online and brought it in, about a month later, where it was handled by a 67 year old retired plumber.

So maybe you just need to pick one place and ask if they have business accounts.  Ya never know.


As I recall, it's called a tub shoe or drain assembly. I also believe plumber's putty is no longer recommended for this type of application. A new drain assembly kit should come with everything you need. Just read the box's instructions before leaving the hardware store, or the sales associate should be able to tell you everything you need.


How can I get my floor register to fit in the duct opening?

You can try one of these:

Move the register opening.
Change the size of the opening so a new register will fit.
Order a custom sized register that will fit your new opening. It won’t match the design of your existing registers, but it’s an easy fix for your new duct opening.


Is there a way to store drywall vertically on its side?

You could build a drywall storage rack.

Start by building 2 or 3 triangular frames out of scrap 2x4s.

Space them out to the desired length.

To prevent sheets from sagging between supports, lay a sheet of plywood on the rack before placing drywall on it.

A rack like this may be overkill for a short term storage solution, but could come in handy if you find yourself storing drywall for extended periods. It's nice because you can store the drywall in less space, it keeps the drywall off the ground/floor, and it prevents the drywall from warping.


Risk of overtorquing wood screws with T-handle screwdrivers?

In general, if you have a good quality screw and you are going into piloted holes, you shouldn't need enough torque to break the screw.  If you really bear down on it, it's not outside of the realm of possibilities that a screw will break, but it shouldn't be common.

If the screw is particularly hard to drive you can lubricate the threads with a little wax or soap to reduce the torque needed to fully drive them.  Once the heads are flush with the surface of the hinge, you should not need a lot of additional torque.  If these are phillips head screws, it's more likely they will cam out before the head breaks off when using hand tools.

I have broken cheap "drywall" screws with hand tools in the past, but I've never broken a better quality screw (like a decking screw) unless I was using an 18v drill or impact driver.


How can I properly drain heatpump condensate?

Adding a wye will provide a new location for water to drain. I would make sure your drain has no “traps” as a simple air bubble can cause backup. If you really want to drain someplace else there are condensate pumps. I do not recommend these when natural drainage is available because the pump will fail and then you are back with an overflowing pan. When I use pumps I add water sensor tape to set an alarm so I know about the problem before it ruins the Sheetrock/plaster.


air vent on downstairs bathroom but not upstairs

By Code any bathroom without a window needs a vent.  I would add a vent to every full bathroom though.  You dont want to open window in negative degree weather.


If you want it to match the color of the satin nickel hardware as good as possible, I would recommend cutting it from... Satin Nickel.  The same companies that make door locks also make "kick plates" for the bottom of the door, and smaller "push plates" that are made to push open a door that doesn't have a knob (normally seen in commercial doors).  Here is an example of a push plate.  You could use one of these like a piece of sheet metal to cut whatever size and shape you wanted.

They also sell door reenforcement plates that are used to cover up damage:

Example here

Most home stores will have these in stock - I randomly picked Home Depot to link to, but these are common items if you know what to look for.


how do I increase natural gas pressure on outdoor fireplace

If the pressure you're measuring is the static pressure, that is the pressure in the line with no gas flowing, that pressure is the same everywhere in the line. You cannot increase that pressure by removing unneeded gas pipe. Instead, you can try having the gas company adjust or replace your regulator.

If you're measuring the pressure while gas is flowing, you might have lines that are too small, long or bendy. You might also have a gas meter that's undersized or defective. I again suggest calling the gas company to see if the meter needs to be replaced.

It's really in everybody's best interest to just call a pro. But the gas company should be happy to at least answer your questions, since you're trying to use more gas. If the meter or regulator needs service or replacement, they should do that for free.


Why did my febco backflow preventer fail?

The only way that could happen is if the nut was loose and then pressurized. Those BFPs are serviceable and the nut must have been left loose. If you can find the components from under the bell you can probably reuse them. Otherwise a replacement kit can be purchased. Before reusing anything make sure the threads were not stripped, possibly from over tightening. http://www.febcoonline.ca/Repair_Kits


My wall appears to be leaking. Can I fix it myself?

Unless the source of the leak is a pipe, the issue will be to the exterior of the house. Could be a leak darn near anywhere on the exterior as water will travel, but in this case, I would hazard a guess that the window is leaking or there is a valley that is cracked near that window.

As far as a hiring a professional goes, that is entirely dependent on your level of comfort of getting in that area of the exterior and checking for damaged areas.


Why is this airduct twitching and making a noise?

The outside end of the duct has a flapper to prevent air (and critters) from coming into the house when the dryer is off. However, even with the dryer off, there can still be a small amount of airflow through the duct, e.g. from inside/outside air pressure differences. It seems that in your case there isn't enough airflow to keep the flapper open, so it swings closed, making a "click". Then, as the (small amount of) pressure builds up, the flapper pops open to let a burst of air through. The changing air pressure causes the flexible duct to throb. Repeat twice a second, and bingo: alien living in your vent duct.


It looks like a drain clean out port.

Do you have a hookup to water for a washer? How about a vent for the dryer? The cap looks like it's been pushed in after the painting took place. Did you try to remove it? It could be a cleanout cover plugging a dryer vent...


Thermostat settings two hvac units older house

You ask a tough question and I assume those are the articles you've read that left you with no definitive answer.

Personally, I've found it least expensive and of course most comfortable to set-it-and-forget-it in my last 2 homes...the only ones that had central air. By just maintaining the thermostat's comfort range of a few degrees the system will only activate briefly once or twice an hour typically.

Mine's set to 70 and only on the 95-plus days does it occasionally fall behind at mid-afternoon for an hour. It depends on cloud assistance here and there or wind being present to cool off the roof and siding.

In your case of 2 systems and 2 floors your only real course of action for any further experimentation or "construction" would be to install a door...likely just temporarily with even plastic sheeting taped liberally at the top and bottom.

A door or the enclosure of the top of the stairs (so cold air doesn't fall from upstairs) would allow you to see if turning the upstairs off or up so high during the day is beneficial at all. I'd suggest 74 or 75 all of the time, unless you're actually comfortable at the 78 for the majority of 24-hours.


Finding the right adapter to connect a hose and a faucet

You will need 2 adapters because nobody makes a single fitting that adapts from the 3/4" x 27 tubular spout thread directly to garden hose thread.
This was a common problem decades ago when portable dishwashers that hook to faucet spouts were more common.
First, adapt the tubular spout to one of the larger common aerator threads, then adapt that to hose thread, like this:


Why is my circuit breaker occasionally tripping on its own, and then not tripping under the same load?

Bad bulbs bad bulbs, what you gonna do?
Some of the funky new bulbs got stuff in them.  This question covers that.
Why is my lighting circuit tripping the breaker?
I do not pretend to understand what that stuff does but I do know that failing LED bulbs can display a variety of fascinating behaviors not seen with older bulb types.
It will not be expensive to replace all the bulbs in these lights with new bulbs.
Not expensive because you can save the old bulbs.  If issue persists despite changeout then you have a lot of spare bulbs you will eventually use since you have a lot of lights.
If all new bulbs fixes the issue then you know it was one of the old bulbs.   Test them one at a time on a lamp in a special penalty box circuit that is not being used for anything important.  When you find the bulb that trips that circuit, it goes in the trash and the rest can come back into the game.

Psychically putting myself in your home (your beer can collection is sweet!) and examining your bulbs, I found two LED bulbs that looked suspicious.  Different than the brother bulbs.  I was only there psychically so could not remove them for you, but if it were my house I would start with changing out those funky looking ones first before changing them all.


How to undo an union on sacrificial anode?

What you are assuming is the anode rod appears to be your hot water outlet. The anode rod should be under that plastic cap you see in the pic toward the back of the water heater. Removing the plastic cap should expose the top of the anode rod which will require a   1 1/16" socket wrench to remove.
Before you do this be sure to close the water inlet into the water heater shut down the heating element and depressurize the tank. When reinstalling the anode you can use pipe thread dope or teflon tape on the threads.


Convert 2 gang no neutral light switch into 1 gang to power a smart-switch that requires neutral. Possible? UK

In the absence of any other answers I'll put what I'm thinking currently. Please tell me in the comments why this will cause my house to burn down (and also vote me down while you're at it). Or even better, help me improve the answer or give a better solution that actually works :)
My idea
The second gang goes to a light socket that is not in use. I presume that in this light socket there will be:

one set of wires that goes to my fuse box and will include a live (A) and a neutral (B). I don't know if there'll be an earth (C) too?
and another pair of wires that go to the switch. We'll call these (D) and (E)

In the redundant socket

Cap off (A)
Join (B) to (D)
Cap off (E)

In the switch
(connections on the actual switch are L, L1, G & N)

Cap off (E)
(D) will become a neutral wire and can connect to N
The two wires from Gang 1 can connect to L & L1.
Join the current earth that's looped into the box to G using an extra bit of wire

Result
Job done? Or ?
In the absence of doubt, this "answer" should not be thought of as an answer yet and will not be accepted unless enough people with more knowledge than me confirm it's safe. And... I'd still get a qualified electrician to actually do the work.


Looks like some surface mildew. That's pretty common in a high humidity area like a bathroom. Blot the stains with some equal parts of water and bleach on a rag, followed by blotting with a plain water rag and let it dry. If you still see it, repeat the process. The bleach will kill the mildew and help to remove any staining left behind. If you still have some staining, a temporary fix would be some spray Kilz.

I would consider repainting that ceiling with some mildew-resistant paint.


What license/certifications are appropriate for mold remediation firms?

The Illinois DPH site related to mold, which does not specifically license remediation firms..  They also don't do inspections.  They DO list several internet sites for contractors:

The Institute for Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration Certification

and

Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration

neither of which are specific to Illinois, but do allow zip code searches (I found IICRC friendlier)

A helpful site at the EPA for mold:  In their Mold Cleanup section, they recommend that the remediation contractor follow their Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings outline (even though its your house, not a school).

It might be a pertinent question to ask: "Do you follow the EPA guidelines for remediation?".

A basic tool for your own use, a moisture gauge, will tell you if the area is ready for treatment:  Wooden interior framing should be < 15% moisture content.  One reasonably accurate meter (non-contact) is the Ryobi E49MM01.


Can I hang over-the-door organizers from exposed drywall?

No. Drywall isn't meant to have exposed, unsupported edges. If you hang stuff over the edge, it'll probably fail - at the very least, you'll have drywall dust all over your closet.

Get some screws, and attach the organizer to the wall studs. (Since the top of the drywall is missing, you'll have no trouble finding the studs.) Take 5 extra minutes, and do the job properly.

And when you have a chance, slap the guy who built this travesty.


Can I power a separate cooktop and wall oven from a single circuit?

Any cooktop and separate oven I had put into the houses I helped build, required a separate circuit for each.


Measuring amps phase to phase vs neutral and getting odd readings

With Measurements made on loads that have nonlinear characteristics the totals don't always add up the way you would expect. Variable speed motor drives, dimmer circuits, modern flouresent ballast are all devices that can cause interesting voltages and diferent amp draws on each leg. I thought I would also add on a 20 amp electronic furnace I recently worked on when running at low speed had over 9 amp imbalance but at full speed the the imbalance was less than 1 amp. For this reason the NEC considers the neutral to be a current carying conductor with nonlinear loads.


Powering a 120v Receptacle off of a 240v Circuit Breaker dedicated to an Appliance

Using a neutral for multiple hots creates what the NEC calls a "multiwire branch circuit". There are specific requirements , but generally the code requires all hot conductors of a MWBC be disconnected simultaneously with handle ties or multipole breakers. There is a requirement for MWBC's to only serve line to neutral loads unless fed by a multipole breaker, not just a handle tie. [2017 NEC 210.4(C)ex.2]

There are technical aspects that deal with types of appliances and percentage of circuits that fixed in place appliances are allowed to use that may render sharing the circuit with receptacles illegal. Specific requirements required in the installation and operating instruction are part of the UL listing, and may also render sharing the circuit illegal.


Should I relocate the HVAC unit in my attic?

Necessary?
No.

More efficient?  Yes.

When the HVAC is centrally located the warmer/cooler air has less overall distance to travel to cover the entire house, as it's radiating out from the center.

If you have noticed that one side of your house is less comfortable than the other, it may be worth the relocation.  If the house is generally comfortable year round already when the system is operating, I would not bother with moving the new one.


Where do I connect the green wire from my dishwasher?

The green wire is the dishwasher's ground wire. You hook it up to the circuit's ground wire, which is the bare copper one.


Can I use the extra thermostat cable as C cable for wifi?

Go ahead, hook that blue wire up to C and use it for your Ecobee

As the terminal strip on your furnace control board is typical in that it has room for 2 wires on each screw, you can simply land the blue wire on the furnace control board's C terminal alongside the white wire that's already there.

BTW: the brown cable you're asking about can simply be left alone -- it's the cable that connects your thermostat's yellow wire (Y terminal) and the furnace control board's C terminal to the compressor contactor in your air conditioner so the thermostat can turn it on and off when things get sweltering in the summertime.


The circuit breaker keeps tripping when I turn my washer on, nothing happens when its turned off

Chances are good the problem is the washer, since the vacuum worked fine in that outlet.  To be certain, plug the washer into another outlet and see if the washer trips the breaker in the new outlet.

You should have the washer checked and serviced.  Since it's showing problems severe enough to trip the circuit breaker it's not a job you should do yourself unless you are competent troubleshooting high voltage electric circuits.


Can two 12/2 cables be used to wire a 240 electric Fireplace?

Sure, if it's actually 240V and not 240/120 split-phase.  Difference is, the latter needs a neutral to power loads internal to the machine which need 120V.  The former does not.

240/120 example: an electric oven with an oven light, where the light is a common off-the-shelf 120V incandescent.   To make this oven pure-240V would require the owner to find oddball 240V bulbs, or have an internal transformer to knock down 240 to 120 for the bulb.

240V example: hot water heater or baseboard heater.  They simply do not need 120V for anything.

All conductors must be in the same physical cable.

For a straight 240V service on a 20A circuit, 12/2 is fine.   There's one small gotcha: 12/2 is only made with black and white conductors.  Thus the white conductor needs to be painted or taped a band of color, to indicate that it is a "hot".  Previously, the law did not require this if the usage was "obvious", and as a result, many electricans fell into the habit of not ever marking anything.


Yes, run a short length of new white wire to the white terminal of the switch and add it to the wirenut (grommet) of the two white wires.

One of the black wires goes to the black terminal on the switch, the other black wire goes to the red terminal on the switch.

It won't damage the switch if you mix up the red and black wires, it simply won't work and you'll just have to swap them around.

You could restore power and use a non-contact voltage detector or a multimeter to find the hot (black terminal) and switched hot (red terminal), but that's just more work requiring tools you make not have.

Mark the switched hot (red) wire with some electrical tape to help remember which is which in the future. Red electrical tape would be perfect, but any color is better than nothing!


Removable windows for the porch or sunroom

The classic, olde-fashioned aproach used on our summer camp porch:

Short solid wall, screen above.

Large interior shutters, hinged at the top, ropes at the bottom, run over pulleys up in the roof, attached to cleats. Given purpose and era, those had small windows in them - you are looking for larger windows, principle would be the same, but you might want them a bit narrower if using glass (due to weight). Plastic glazing (polycarbonate twin-wall) would be much lighter - good plant light, not so good for views, not fragile.

The shutters were pulled up into the roof when summer came, and left there unless there were bad storms. The two at the corner overlapped and were rigged so that one went up first and the other had to follow it, or they wouldn't go. When they were down, a toggle at the bottom kept them from blowing and flapping about.

It's more fiddly to build than removable glass, but does simplify storage quite a bit. Height of shutter/window that opens can't be more than width of porch (but the solid wall portion could be glazed.)

On the third hand, if there's a good portion of non-window-area house wall on the back, you could store removable windows there against the house wall.

Responding to comment: I cannot find a picture of the old, simple system. The picture I can find that's closest is this more complicated bi-fold system, but if you imagine it with a single, unhinged window panel, and ropes/pulleys it's pretty close - it would just cover more ceiling, and be easier to build.


My Gibson unit needed a starter kit almost from day one. My AC guy, who I've used for 30 years, put in one from SUPCO. Almost yearly, he would have to replace it, as the compressor wouldn't start. Had a new guy out for some other work and he suggested putting in a unit from Five Two One. It has been running strong for almost 5 years. The Five Two One unit has a relay whereas the SUPCPO does not. I ordered it in from Amazon for about $50.00 and he installed it in about 5 minutes. Just plugged in along side run cap. Depending on the age of your unit, you also may need to replace the run cap.


If (as I infer) you are in an area where an "IBC Shed" is not requiring a permit, and larger things are, you either need to separate the  new space (so you have two "sheds" that are not actually connected) or you need to pull a permit; unless your area restricts you to one "shed" and then you're simply going to have to pull a permit.

If memory serves, the IBC definition is based on "projected roof area" of the "shed" - so two conjoined maximum-sized  "sheds" are no longer a "shed."


water hammer after whole house copper repipe

If the supply valves for the sink (farthest away) are screwed onto a stub of the copper pipe with a male adapter (they should be), then you can simply put in a tee on that pipe, a close nipple to re-attach your supply valve, and in the top of the tee, facing up, install an arrester or even just a piece of pipe with cap on the end to trap air in it.


How can I safely have 2x 7kw/32amp electrical vehicle chargers connected to my consumer unit? (UK)

The most important thing to check is probably the size of the main supply fuse on your incoming feed. Between 60 and 100 amps is typical for a domestic supply. If you have a 60 amp fuse, I'd be very wary of trying to run two chargers at 7KW each simultaneously.

The other thing to consider is the actual consumption of the chargers that will be connected. Just because the supply point is rated to 7KW, doesn't mean that the charger will actually draw that.

You don't need to accommodate the full current capacity of all the breakers because you're unlikely to be using everything that you possibly can at any one time, but if your peak load exceed the main fuse, you have a problem.

Personally, I'd be very tempted to have nothing further to do with British Gas and approach a local electrician about the work. If their electrical work is priced like their plumbing, it'll be very expensive. (And I wouldn't be surprised if they subcontract it out anyway).


These fixtures are usually wired so that the (2) outside bulbs and the (2) inside bulbs are wired together. Yes both bulbs need to be inserted in the sockets to light-up. Also the 4 foot bulbs with (2) terminal pins need to be turned so that they lock in place and contact the terminals carrying the voltage. Usually a 1/4 turn or until resistance to turning is felt.


Is there a way to make reasonably accurate visual measurements?

For a quick and dirty estimate, I'd try the following:

Take a camera and tripod as far away from the front of the house as
you can get.
Level the tripod and camera.
Take a picture of the full face of the house, zoomed in as much as possible.
Verify your scale:

Measure a few points on the house (windows are good, you can measure the picture and the inside of the window) on either side and different floors.
Make sure the scale of the picture at those points is consistent.
Note: they're not all going to be the same. Use the least favorable
scale for your estimates.

Assuming the scale is reasonably consistent, measure things on the
picture and multiply by the scale.
Add 10% (standard practice).

This works because you specifically wanted to overestimate rather than underestimate.  It will be more accurate the further you can get from the house for the picture.  I would never recommend this for construction work; but it should be good for holiday lights.


How can I soften the clicking sound of a light switch

Not really.  Your option is pretty much replace the switch with a quieter one.  Switches are $2 to $5.

Since SE archives questions, I'll mention that some switches are loud because they are special switches rated to switch high current - in that case, don't downgrade.


Putting a rain barrel on a deck or on a stand

These answers will be opinion based so here's mine. I would rather have a 100 pound keg of beer on my deck. The rain barrel is just for the garden so I would be making it part of the garden instead of part of the recreational use of the deck. I doubt it would cause any issues if on the deck though.


Free standing shed with single plane roof

The roof loading transmits straight down, so the shorter wall and the taller wall will be bearing exactly the same roof load. Shed roofs can leave the structure a bit more prone to racking, which is basically the tendency of a square to deform into a trapezoid:

You'll be fine if you do a couple of things.  First, sheath the walls with 4' x 8' sheet material (i.e. OSB) and not long boards.  This is the best anti-racking measure. Second, secure the bottom plate of your walls to the concrete slab with concrete anchors. The ones I like to use for existing concrete are wedge anchors or hammer-drive pin anchors. Finally, given your dimensions you will probably want to put in rafter ties that run level from the shorter wall to the taller wall to give a structural triangle:


Do I NEED to use correct colors when wiring always?

Electricity doesn't care about color.  But electricians (both pros and amateurs) do.

The color is meant to inform both you and any future worker which wires are hot (usually black or red, but occasionally other colors, such as blue), neutral (white or sometimes grey), ground (bare, green or green/yellow striped). If it is not bare, white or green, it is potentially hot.

Code lets you use wire with a different color insulation than the standard if you mark it permanently with the correct color, such as a piece of colored electrical tape, heat shrink tubing or with paint. That way, when you return to the fixture/switch/outlet three years from now, even if you cannot remember what you did, the color of the wires will guide you. And for someone else working on your circuit, it is essential.

Code in all states that I know of in the US require correctly marked wire (either the original jacket or a subsequent marking). Wrong color is a violation. I do not specifically know Michigan code (and it probably varies by local jurisdiction), but it almost certainly follows the standard code when it comes to wiring colors.

On your followup question, it was very common to use 14/2 or 12/2 wire to run a switch loop (a hot line to the switch and a switched hot returning from the switch). The code required that the white wire be marked black (or red) to show it was hot.

Code now requires that all new switches have a neutral, so the old two wire switch loop is not allowed, even if you are using a dumb switch that doesn't need a neutral (some future switch might). So if you are running a new wire, you might as well use 14/3, use the black and red for the switch and leave the white capped in the switch box. You should attach the white at the fixture so that in any subsequent wiring project it will already be properly connected.


How can I power a load from two separate circuit breakers?

Use a simpler relay

A better plan would be to use a UL-listed SPST relay with a 120V coil driven from the motion sensor, with its contacts in parallel with the lightswitch.  (A Functional Devices RIBU1C or RIBU1S will do the trick, provided your lighting load does not exceed 600W.)  That way, all your lighting is powered from one breaker, and you don't have to do a bunch of rewiring.

Of course, this requires that your motion sensor power itself through the neutral, or be replaced with one that does, instead of "cheating" and trickling power through the load.


Can I use these brackets to make wall mounted bookshelves?

2x10s will be fine with those brackets. The sagulator calculates about an 1/8" sag over the 6' span with a 500lb load and 2 brackets (anchored at sides), which is plenty acceptable - and 500lb is probably an overestimation for a single shelf. Shelving brackets are not intended to span the entire depth of the shelf either, but make sure the brackets are secured to the underside of the shelf properly


What type of caulk can I use between the furnace vent pipe & flashing on a roof?

I'd recommend Not using any petroleum-based sealant on any surface subject to heat (it will soften and melt). For a positive and weatherproof seal use any 100% silicone caulking (Dap, Owen-Corning, etc.). For an even better and longer lasting seal against water go with any exterior Urethane caulking. Well worth the slight cost increase, but is U.V resistant and stays pliable indefinetly. And there is no need for a high temperature rated sealer. Unless the area you are sealing is in close proximity to the heat source. Than you will need some type of refractory-type caulking.


What should I do about a hardwood floor that's sagging between the joists?

Since you can get to the floor from underneath, you can shore up the flooring by adding new joists between the existing ones.  This will not be a FUN process, but the process is simple enough, just labor intensive.

First, add cross braces between each joist at each end, of the same dimensions as your existing joists.  You'll want them to be snug fitting between each joist, and well supported with joist hangers.

Now, between each brace, halfway between each existing joist, hang new joists to fit between the cross braces you added.  Before you permanently hang the joists, prop them up from beneath with 2x4 temporary posts to force the tops up to be level with the tops of the existing joists (pushing the flooring above back into shape), then secure them permanently in place with joist hangers.

Add blocking between the old and new joists as well, to ensure the new joists don't warp/twist.

See the pic attached to help clarify what I mean

Black = OLD work already there
Red = new cross bridging or bracing
Blue = new joists
Green = blocking to prevent warping
Purple circles = places where you use joist hangers


What steps do I take to painting a brick wall mural?

I would avoid using chalk or charcoal for laying out the grid and/or sketch lines as it could cause finish-coat adhesion problems. Assuming this is a large scale project I would use a carpenter's pencil (hardware store) to lightly mark the grid and to sketch your design; no need to rub off as the paint will cover over the pencil marks.

Don't draw solid grid lines, use a straight piece of lumber and draw intermittent marks for the grid.

As for paint, it depends. Pre-tinted exterior house paint might be a good idea if large areas of the design are a single color (they can be duplicated with fair accuracy). If the design is intricate with many hues required then it would probably be more economical to purchase smaller containers of acrylic paint (art/hobby supply store) and mix them yourself (colors will not be easily duplicated though).

Large area brushes: hardware store, and do not skimp on the quality; good brushes= good coverage and finish.

Intricate design brushes: art/hobby supply store.


Remodeling an old mechanic's garage into a conference space

Many red flags. For one, that's not the right way to insulate a ceiling: if you want to use batts, you need to put rigid foam above the roof decking or leave ventilation channels between the roof decking and the insulation. For more info see http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulated-cathedral-ceiling

Furthermore, the fire code is nothing you want to be trying to skirt or do the bare minimum with. Fires are serious business. Do it right. An alternative to drywall is something called intumescent paint but I'm not sure that would work well in this application because the paper facers of the batts are too flexible and brittle to ensure continuous coverage for the life of the building.

It sounds like you need professional help, especially if you are planning to turn this into a commercial/institutional space. There are liability issues associated with potentially unsafe DIY work in buildings that will serve the public. Spend more money up front and have a better, safer, more nicely-finished building.


Craftsman HBW0777 garage door opener does not close door - light does not flash

It was the speed sensor. After a lot more searching, I found a bunch of references to this on forums and youtube and such. There is a common issue with all openers of this style where the optical speed/RPM sensor's interruptor cup slides out of alignment for various reasons. This wasn't the case for me - the actual sensor was dead. I just installed the new one from Amazon and the opener now works.


what kind of pump and attachment to tie my improvised shower to the sink drain?

You could use a "wye tailpiece" from a plumbing shop. These are normally sized for kitchen sink drains (1 1/2" tube) so you may have to adapt it (it can be done with creative use of drain fittings).

Use a submersible fountain pump, they are small and self-priming (please ensure that it is plugged into a GFCI). Just run a hose from the pump discharge to the tailpiece (again, may need creative adapting).


Is fumigated barn wood safe for indoor use?

Most likely it was fumigated with Sulfuryl fluoride

In the United States, most experts performing termite fumigation for residential buildings use a gas with the active ingredient sulfuryl fluoride.
After fumigation, the tent over the treatment area is removed, and the fumigant gases diffuse into the air, rapidly leaving your home. Following six hours of ventilation, your pest management professional will use devices that detect trace amounts of sulfuryl fluoride and chloropicrin in the air. According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), re-entry is not permitted until sulfuryl fluoride levels are 1 part per million or less. (During the fumigation, concentrations may reach 3,850 parts per million or higher.)

According to Cornell university, it quickly breaks down

Sulfuryl fluoride dissipates quickly in the atmosphere and is broken down through hydrolysis and photodegradation.

If it's been some time since the fumigation, it's likely safe enough to use indoors


Installing 3 Eve Light Switches - one works, but two others just flash the lights every 6 seconds

You add to the neutral pile instead of splitting it up

From your description, it sounds like you're picking a specific neutral wire out of the neutral bundle to attach the neutral from the smart switch to.  This is wrong, as it disconnects that neutral from the rest of the neutrals, leaving the smart switch possibly unable to power itself properly, as well as some loads unpowered as they have no return path to the utility for electric current to flow.

What you need to do instead when installing a smart switch is keep all the existing neutrals together while adding the smart switch's neutral to that bundle.  That way, the current that powers the smart switch joins with the rest of the current on that circuit on the way back to the utility.


Can you splice wires in the middle of a wireless dog fence?

I have had several wireless fences with one being several acres where I had gates I did splice and twist the wires to make the null signal area , adding the gate areas for horses I did need to turn up the power but it still worked fine with several changes including where the brush hog cut the fence in an area it was not buried even with splices at those points and new sections added of twisted wire the fence still worked well.
Where I spliced the fence I used butt splices and filled them with silicone sealer so the splice would be dry and not corrode when crimped some of the sealer is squeezed out but this makes a really well sealed splice for low voltage I also do this on my boat and the connections last.


How do I stop my toilet from backing up?

Sounds like you have a slow-draining blockage in the drain arm between the toilet and the main drain.  If you haven't used it in a while, the drain is empty and you can flush it, filling the arm with water and forcing the air back out of the toilet (hence the gurgle).  The second time or third time you flush, the drain is already full and there's no place for the water to go.

Call a plumber to snake it and clear the blockage.


Can deterioration of chipboard damaged by steam be arrested?

Once the chipboard has dried out a sealing paint can be used to encapsulate the wood fiber. Once the Melamine starts buckling it is tough to seal unless removed and a new strip installed after sanding filling then sealing.It may be tough to get a close match on the color but this method should provide another 5+ years. You could even use a different color to make a accent strip. standard counter top adhesive contact cement like this will hold the new strip in place if well prepared.


Is this broken pipe the reason my freezer is not working? Can it be fixed?

That broken pipe has let all the refrigerant escape, so it will no longer work.

Compared to the cost of a new one, the repair will likely be more expensive given the time, tools and materials involved.


Ice Dispenser auger won't stop dumping ice into chute

Short Answer:  Replaced both boards, and this fixed it.

Despite lots of excellent help from others on this forum, concluded that I couldn't adequately test the boards without risking damage to a new board by connecting it to one of my current (status unknown) boards.  Very appreciative of the caution regarding these parts' sensitivity to static discharge, as even the chat help person from the parts website didn't know about this (but the parts packaging confirmed that you need to wear a wrist strap grounding device and handle carefully to avoid damaging the new parts).


What is this mountable adjustable clamp for a pipe called?

This looks like a field retro fit. A larger clamp than was needed and a two bolt holes drilled in it to make it fit. I have never seen one like this before and I've put up a lot of pipe. There are many pipe clamps that have rubber bushings in them to keep them from hitting the walls.


What is the difference between double glazing and triple glazing?

Triple glazing is usually touted as the best for energy reasons.
Sound reduction in triples can be better than doubles, but it's not dramatic.  Asymmetric glazing (different thicknesses) can give triples an edge by blocking (attenuating) different frequencies, but these are special features not on the average triple.  The larger air gap of a double is a better sound insulator.

Your best comparison, insulation-wise, is to compare the R-value / U-factor of 2 units.  The U factor is nothing more than the reciprocal of the R value.  A window with a R 10 rating will be a U 0.10 (a great window currently.

Triple glazing is the darling of superinsulated homes and has a price to match. They typically only make sense in colder climates where heating costs would justify the expense.  Windows must be paired other areas of energy conservation: air sealing, ceiling insulation.  An energy audit that does a blower door test, paired with a thermo imaging analysis, should be done before upgrading to triple glazing. Some local utilities have discounted energy audits.


Corrugated vs Solid PVC for sump pump drainage

You can use either.  Smooth wall PVC is a little less likely to clog, and is a little stronger but beyond that they both will carry water away.

The sump should discharge out the house above ground level.  In winter you would either detach the drain pipe from the outlet and allow the water to collect near the foundation (not ideal) or you would have some kind of air gap.  (Like a ground level drain that the discharge pipe is aimed at.)  This way if the underground portion freezes, the liquid water is still able to escape, running out over the ground.  If you skip this you could end up with a plugged discharge and a burnt out sump pump.

See: https://structuretech1.com/sump-system-defects/ for more information.


How can I remove paint from this window's aluminum track?

Paint thinner, a rag, and some elbow grease.


Can I put a 20Amp breaker on my existing 15AMP garage circuit?

Don't try to run a saw and a dust collector on the same circuit

You seem to think a 20A circuit will magically support both. No, it won't. You sink the time, energy and cost into getting that single 20A circuit, plug both in, and you'll get a snap for your trouble.  Stop trying.

You need a 15A circuit for the dust collector, and Bob's your uncle.   For the table saw, a [different] 15A circuit might work.   If the saw has a NEMA 5-20 plug (rotated neutral), then  you definitely need a 20A circuit including 20A wire.

Now if the saw has a standard plug but still trips a 15A breaker reasonably often, and you are prepare to dedicate that circuit to this saw only, then take a picture of the motor nameplate on the saw, and post it here in a new question asking "Based on this motor nameplate, can I bump this breaker? Canada code." There might be a magical exception.  Maybe.  There are some numbers that need to be crunched.  Don't go slapping in a 20A breaker on that hope. Capische?

A 20A circuit absolutely requires #12 copper or #10 aluminum

You cannot simply slap a 20A breaker on any cable that uses #14 copper or #12 aluminum.   Remember, even if  you are able to exploit that magical exception, that only works on a circuit dedicated to one specific tool.

You can tell what  your cable is by reading the words printed on the cables for about 1 foot.  There's a lot there, but there should be something like 14/3 AWG or 14 AWG, and Copper, CU, Aluminum, or AL.

Given that the cable near the panel is in unfinished space, and garages often are too, you may be able to run new cables and then obtain new 20A breakers for those cables.  This is the normal approach when acquiring new power tools.  It's part of the ritual.

Check with your local EATON dealer (or ThreePhaseEel if you can post a picture of your panel's label), but it appears at first glance that your panel takes EATON type BQL breakers (or BQLT if you need double-stuffs).  These cost C$20 per space at Lowes, which figuring for exchange rate and VAT is probably about twice a common BR breaker.  They bolt down, so you must power down the whole panel to fit them.  But that's easy enough.

"But Commander panels are dangerous!"

OK, let's think this through.  There are dangerous panels out there, but their troubles generally fall into 3 different areas.

The bus stabs not having good contact, arcing and starting fires. This panel uses bolt-down breakers, which makes this a complete non-issue.
The neutral and ground bars making poor contact with the wires for some reason.  Later research proved much of this trouble was actually caused by screws not being torqued down to spec.  Because of this, US NEC now requires installations use a torque screwdriver.  In panels with suspect G/N bar problems, this is the best answer.
The breakers themselves being duff.  FPE and Zinsco got caught out cheating their UL listings.  I don't know why CSA (Canada's UL) delisted Commander panels, but they did. The fix here is replace the breakers with reliable modern stock. That's not an option for FPE or Zinsco (the $80 Connecticut Electric replacement breakers are even worse than the originals)... but Eaton's BQL line is the replacement for Challenger, and it appears to be simply a repackaged BR breaker with a  boltdown flange instead of a stab clip. And, they are sanely priced.


First, a ground wire and neutral is mandatory for this setup. You cannot set up groundless, and you cannot "bootleg ground" off neutral as once was legal for dryers.  This is extra important because if a neutral wire has a problem, it will electrify the grounds - and that'll shock and drown people in the hot tub.

If the hot tub already requires a 30A breaker, you should convert it to cord-and-plug connection.  Use NEMA 14-30 and extend the circuit to serve both 14-30 receptacles.  Why?  No receptacles are allowed if any hardwired load is more than 50% of circuit capacity (as the hot tub certainly will be). BUT multiple receptacles are allowed on a 30A circuit.   Of course, running both at once will trip the breaker, but you know that.

If the hot tub uses a larger breaker, you must install a subpanel. However you will not need to upsize the wire run, unless you want to.

If you go the subpanel route, don't be tempted to install one that's "just large enough". That's how your panel got full in the first place, which is why you have this problem now. The cost differential for a larger panel is tiny a couple of pizzas.  You often hear me say "I hope the guy who bought that panel really enjoyed that latté" because it's that cheap, so it's a waste not to do it. Install a large subpanel (in terms of number of spaces) - a 30-space is not excessive. Then as convenient, move some existing circuits to it to free up space in your main.    A house should have a number of spaces in the 40's, so if you have a 16, a 30; if you have a 24, another 24.


We have a Chromalox EDB-20-1 hot water furnace, and it sounds like a flowing stream whenever the water flows through the house

The bang is probably water hammer - there are various ways to deal with that.

The whooshing sound, may be caused by bubbles of air in the water-pipes. The normal way to deal with that is to bleed air out of the system when it is not running. The system will have bleed valves. Their location and type depend on the type of system and vary by locale/country. You can obtain automatic air vent/bleed devices that can be plumbed in to automatically bleed air out of a system (the drawback might be that you are not alerted to a problem with air getting into your system)


Easiest way to build an oddly-shaped shelf for cabinet above stove

A 2 piece shelf is a good plan, but my scheme differs from yours from there. Yours would work, but mine's better (IMO). Instead of plywood, I would use MDF. It's dimensionally stable, easy to work, and paints up very nicely with a very smooth surface.

I would cut a circular hole to fit the duct closely so small things don't fall into the void below. Consider buying a small electric jig saw for sawing. It doesn't have to be very expensive, you will likely find other uses for it once you have one. And it'll save a ton of manual labor! Sell it on flea-bay when you're done if you really don't want it. This all can be done manually if you're a glutton for punishment.

You don't need angle brackets, though they could work. Gluing and screwing MDF cleats to the walls will be much stronger and probably more accurately assembled. You don't really need to attach to the cabinet sides at all. A cleat along the back wall and a front filler panel would be adequate support. If it's not too much trouble, the extra support would not hurt though. I would use construction adhesive for glue.

You will need to pre-drill all fastener holes in MDF. It's too dense to drive anything through it without doing so. You should not use glue to hold the actual shelves, screws alone will allow removal to access the range hood or retrieve items that fell through near the duct. You normally should never run fasteners into the edge of MDF, but in this case it's non-structural just to keep the shelves from moving. Be sure to pre-drill the full screw depth into the cleats because fasteners in the edge of MDF cause it to spall very easily if not pre-drilled.


After replacing incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs, why am I getting flickering from some of them, but not all, on dimmer switches

TL;DR Your Dimmers are Not Compatible with the Bulbs
Older dimmers don't work with most LED lights. Period. Many newer dimmers work together with newer "Dimmer Compatible" bulbs (as yours are listed). There are even some dimmers available today that are not LED-compatible, and 2013 or older dimmers are very likely to be not LED-compatible.
That being said, there are times when some combinations of LED-compatible Dimmer and Dimmer-compatible LED aren't quite compatible enough. But my hunch is that a new, good quality, LED-compatible dimmer will solve the problem.
Feel free to post the model # of one of the existing dimmers, as that may confirm the problem.


What type of tool do I need for this screw with a pin in the slot?

This is secure hex bit or similar. There are a bunch of varieties. The basic idea is to take a "normal" head (e.g., a standard hex or Torx) and add something to prevent the regular bits from working. It is of limited use as far as real security because the bits are usually not hard to find. For example, this set from Harbor Freight or this set from Home Depot. Search for "security bit" or "tamper proof bit" or similar.


Can I use 1 Nest Thermostat with 2 boilers?

If the tstats get power from the boilers, the OP would have to be sure than only one of the boilers is supplying power to the Nest tstat. If the transformers were out of phase, you'd have a direct short. A dry contact relay for the 2nd boiler control would be safer, triggered by the call for heat on the first boiler.
But clearly the OP has 2 zones and 2 tstats are called for...best and safest approach. Like Freeman said, unless the heating performance and heat loss of the two spaces are identical, one space will be either over-heated or under-heated compared to the other.
BTW, what is currently controlling the 2nd boiler? A tstat in the outbuilding? An old fashioned manual one? If so, I really think the best solution would be to replace it.  It doesn't need to be a super expensive Nest type...programmable tstats for heating only shouldn't cost much more that $50-$60.  Probably the best and least expensive solution.


Framing for drywall around curved stairs

I would install thin, flexible boards against the wall and mount crossbars (ceiling joists) to them. I would not mount drywall directly to the stairs.

Establish lines on the wall. This could be done with semi-rigid pipe held against the staircase to create smooth curves.
Rip 1x4 boards in half to yield 1x2 boards with nice square edges. 1x2 lumber usually has very rounded edges.
Mount these runners on the line with the narrow edge and square corners against the wall. Use 3" construction screws and pre-drill so as to not crack the boards. If you find the curves too tight, soak the boards in warm water for a few hours.
Mount 2x4 boards flatwise across the span, screwing them into the runners with 2-1/2" construction screws. Pre-drill here, too.

This strategy, along with the corner tape joints, will leave you with a very strong ceiling. It'll be isolated from the staircase, so that any vibration and movement in the stairs won't result in cracks.

| <-- wall
|__________
|          | <-- 1x2 runner, screwed to the wall studs
|__________|_________________________________________________________
|
|     2x4 ceiling joist, screwed into the 1x2 runner
|
|_____________________________________________________________________
|

One suggestion for fitting the drywall (the most challenging part of all this) is to do it one side at a time. Fit pieces that run about 2/3 the way across the span to the wall. Do this from each side, mounting loosely near the walls and lapping the center area. Then use a rotary cutter to slice up the middle through both layers. Remove the scrap and screw it all tight.


It should not be a burn hazard but adding insulation will only help the performance by reducing the convection of heat from the pipe.


How can I fit a Schlage lockset in my front door?

As for expanding the hole, I am still confident this post will answer your question.

Regarding the Schlage deadbolts, these are not great deadbolts.  If you really want high security, you need to look at Mult-T-Lock or Medeco.  These are far more secure for a number of reasons. First, they are made of much harder metals - if you feel them compared to another deadbolt there is a noticable weight difference.  These deadbolts also often have balls at the end that push out of the bolt when fully expanded so it cannot be forced back in. Also, the keys for these locks can only be made (not copied) by the locksmith who originally created them (each locksmith is assigned a "keyway" and is the only locksmith who can produce the keys), this is handy if you have a cleaning lady or other service person since you can rest assure they cannot make a copy of the key for their friends.  There are also metal rings you can put around a deadbolt that spin so that someone cannot use a wrench to twist if off.

If your doors hinges are on the outside then you can also look at having bolts installed on the inside of the door.  This way, if the hinges are removed (pins popped out, or blown off with a shotgun), you cannot just pull the door off.

A heaver guage strike (the metal piece that goes on top of the hole where the deadbolt goes into) with longer screws will add extra strength to the deadbolt and hamper someone knocking down the door.

You can also place a cage in front of the door (which too has a deadbolt) but they are not attractive, and add an extra step to opening your door.

An alarm is useful but in a lot of cases, of someone knows what they want, they can be in and out before anyone responds.

A camera adds an extra layer of "don't mess with me" plus gives you a far better chance of identifying an intruder.