How can I prepare an uneven beam to be wrapped with wood?

With a helper, pull a builder's line (dryline) from one end to the other along a bottom corner of the beam. Find a good compromise that's just outside all the curves and humps. Fasten the line to the walls at each end and make sure it's very tight.
Check that you can plumb up from the line at all points along the beam without encroaching on the beam. If not, move the line outward as necessary to clear the beam.
Check the line for level and square with the room. Adjust as needed.
Set another line on the other side of the beam parallel to and level with the first, again just outside the beam's extremities.
Plumb up from both lines at the four ends and mark the ceiling. Snap chalk lines along the ceiling to establish straight lines at the top. Pull the chalkline perpendicular to the ceiling when you snap it to prevent curvature due to a non-flat surface.
At 16" intervals, fit and install shims, cut from two-by lumber, around the beam that come just shy of both lines and the ceiling marks. Don't touch the line or you'll push it out. This has a cumulative effect and will result in curves. Each set of shims should result in a plumb, level, square panel mounting base.
Install your panels over the shims as though they were a framed wall.


Difficulty finding studs on external wall of renovated house - any good rules of thumb?

Since it's an exterior wall, you may have "cross strapping". It's a technique to frame a wall using 2x4 studs, and then cross strapping it (horizontally) with 2x1 straps to increase the space for insulation.
In this case the drywall is fastened to the strapping, and the fasteners will be aligned horizontally, rather than vertically along studs (see drawing).
They could run 24in or 16in apart (vertically separated)

From https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy-efficiency/energy-efficiency-homes/make-your-home-more-energy-efficient/keeping-heat/keeping-heat-chapter-7-insulating-walls/15641
If this is your situation, you would likely not be able to use the straps for hanging curtains: there will likely be no strap where you need one, and they are not for bearing a load.
The solution is to use longer (2.75 - 3in) and stronger screws (#10) to reach deeper to an underlying stud or header.
The best bet for locating the studs is at the edges of the window opening. That's where you'll find the "king" and "jack" studs (see drawing).

From https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy-efficiency/energy-efficiency-homes/make-your-home-more-energy-efficient/keeping-heat/keeping-heat-chapter-7-insulating-walls/15641
The stud finding techniques in the other answer, by Jon, are indeed good, but with strapping it's still hard to get reliable results from either.
Also, a stud finder with "deep scan" might or might not work. I've had no success with one.
If you are ok with a bit of drywall filling, you could carefully drill a 0.25in hole through the drywall and poke through it with a 3in nail, coat hanger etc.. to see if you hit a stud after the strapping space of about 0.75in. There will be insulation to contend with: and becareful not to twist out insulation or vapour barrier that gets caught on the drill.
If you are worried about punctures in the vapour barrier after all the drilling, you can squirt in some expanding closed cell foam through each hole, to re-seal them, before you patch the hole.


How to remove a bed slat holder (without breaking it)

These slats curve upwards just a little bit. Pull upward in the center of the slat, pushing one of the ends into its socket at the same time. The slat has enough flexibility to curve just a little more and clear the other socket.

Start in the center of the bed, this is where the frame has more flex and it is easier to work out how to do it.

HTH


Can I hang a heavy weight from a concrete ceiling if I reinforce it with fiberglass?

The correct answer here is to not hang the load from points on the ceiling, which will damage the structure and could make you liable for losses due to the damage, but to build a structure that will spread the load on the floor. (I think this was covered in a few previous questions... I'm certain I've given this answer before) You would want to build a structure out of steel, either angle iron or square tube, with legs that will spread your weight load across the floor. Many structures are available pre-made, even ones that fold up flat, for crossfit enthusiasts, or you can always manufacture your own with metal, an angle grinder, and a drill and bolts.


Two A/C units are close to each other and turning one on turns the other on. How to fix?

I have 3 units air con of same brand in my office room. So all 3 units will turn on/off at the same time, by single one remote control. So I used a brown tape to cover the signal emitter to weaken the signal strength, and it works. But i have to place the remote control very near to the relatively air con, and i can control each air con individually.


There's no way to answer this (what will the shelf hold, weight-wise) without knowing what your garage ceiling joists are, if they are part of a truss or just joists, how long the span is, and really, what they were designed to hold up in the first place - many garage ceiling joists are barely in spec to hold drywall, much less a load...

A FAR better attachment method is to place a beam (or more than one) inside the "attic" space across the top of the joists, spanning several, and run threaded rod (steel) through that beam and down through the ceiling to support the item below. In this case it would mean you can spread the load across many more joists (by using a long beam in the attic space.) It also means that you are not depending on wood screws to hold the load directly.


Are single control faucets supposed to leak when pressed down?

No, the faucet should not leak like you describe when moderate pressure is applied directly straight into the faucet knob. Excessive force there is a possibility that it would leak unless you broke it first in which case you would likely have a gusher to deal with.

There are seals onside this type of faucet assembly that can get worn, old and hard and even crack with age and use. When the seals start to fail it can leak in various ways under multiple use scenarios. Sometimes it is simply a process that the seals need some lubricated with food grade petroleum jelly. But in most leak situations like you describe you would have to turn off the water source and take the faucet apart so that the seals and maybe even the ball valve can be replaced.


The blisters in the photo are due to moisture (water vapor) being forced out of the from the opposite side or from the ground. Moisture permeates through the plaster in the path of least resistance, such as a fissure or hairline cracks. If the surface has been painted the water will actually blister the paint as it continues through the wall. The powdery residue you notice is a combination of minerals left behind when the moisture evaporated and whatever effluence it picked up traveling through the plaster. To solve the problem first eliminate the cause of the moisture. This could be any thing from a wayward sprinkler that splashes water against the walls surface to gutters saturating the ground that is against the wall. If the wall is in contact with the soil, excavate to the footing clean the surface and when dry apply a concrete sealer like Dryloc. To repair the blisters wire brush the loose plaster scrape any flaking paint, apply a concrete adhesive to the surface (not critical to the repair, but it helps), and apply a plaster patch as needed. It will blister in another location if the water source isn't corrected.


Replacing two 3-way dimmer switches with two non-dimmer 3-way switches

You now have them correct, the one good thing with 3 wires connecting the 3 way switches you don't have to worry about burning things down they just don't work as you found out if they are wrong. Good job of figuring it out, you would not believe how many times I have been called to do what you just figured out.


When bolting down a porcelain toilet, how tight is "too tight"?

I start by hand tightening as much as I can, then I tighten a little on each side and check if the toilet moves.  If it does then I tighten a bit more, check and repeat until there's no movement.  You're trying to avoid bowl movement, so that it doesn't shift or fall over, not to hold the floor up by the toilet bolts.

As tight as you can go will probably snap the porcelain (with a good socket you can torque a nut onto a bolt quite a bit).  Until you think it's about to snap is just guessing.

Snug.  No movement.  Enjoy.

"Too tight" is a sixteenth of a turn past where the porcelain snaps :-)


Can a heat pump water heater be vented to the attic?

The cold is just air cooled in the home and it has no more moisture than the house air in-fact it is dryer than the house air. I have vented 2 into Areas that are not conditioned , I think the attic is a good option as in the summer it will help cool that space. If you have plumbing in the attic I would choose a different location as this can help the pipes to freeze. I vented mine outside but that was a convenient location for me.  You still need a drain for the moisture that builds up on the exchanger, also if a tight house you will need some makeup air allowed in normally at the furnace, my 1930’s home did not need additional vents but a Check needs to be done, the efficiency gain is reduced if inside the home so in my opinion it is a crock to require them.


Why aren't phase-change heat pipes more common in homes?

Expense, complexity and serviceability are your main reasons.
In point of fact, the time you list as being "most useful" would be very unlikely to work well, as hot exterior temps requiring the use of A/C are often hotter than the coils on a freezer, so heat would not move then...the time you'd be able to really save on energy with heat pipes on a fridge is that part of the year when the heat pipe alone could cool the refrigerator or freezer from cold outside temps, rather than heating the house and then cooling the fridge/freezer inside the house. But this requires a bunch of complicated plumbing with unfamiliar constraints and simple "packaged units" that require only a power outlet, and perhaps a waterline for an icemaker tend to win in the marketplace.
If you want to get fridge/freezer heat outside and you have adequate budget, commercial units requiring a refrigeration tech to run lines between an outside compressor unit and the inside cooling unit are available. They are very rarely seen in houses due to the cost relative to a packaged unit.
The same factors affect other schemes such as using refrigeration waste heat to pre-heat water.
So, you could certainly try to apply heat pipes in your house, but that's going to require that you become comfortable designing and constructing them, or that you have so much money to hire people to do that, that the energy savings make no financial difference to you. If constructing them, you will almost certainly need a vacuum pump, and you'll need plumbing skills at the "no vacuum leaks" level.
I recommend The Tubular Thermosiphon: Variations on a Theme by GSH Lock as a good introduction to the subject if you pursue the build-your-own path. It's not too expensive as a used book.


How do I force a tight globe-valve water shutoff to fully close?

Any valve that refuses to fully shut off won't be improved by tightening the handle further.

The usual problem with a Globe Valve is that the rubber valve seal has aged and cracked, needing replacement. This means you have to shut the water off upstream of the valve and remove the body cartridge so the rubber seal can be changed out.

Some valves have a globe shape, but get misidentified by that shape because they actually are Gate Valves which have a vertical wedge shaped metal gate that gets pushed down into a tapered slot. These fail because sediment accumulates in the slot on the downwards side and the gate no longer can be pushed fully home so the taper seals. This requires the water to be turned off upstream so you can take the top off the valve, extract the gate and grub the sediment out using a piece of welding rod so it will flush out when you reassemble the valve.

I've gone over to using quarter turn ball valves when I have to go to this much trouble. They are better than Globe Valves because the opening is the same size as the inner diameter of the pipe when the valve is full open, the water doesn't have to turn 90 degrees to flow through a restriction as it does in a Globe valve and while the gate valve has the same lack of restriction as the ball, the ball valve has no slot for rust, sand and sediment to accumulate in while it spends most its life wide open.


If you can't repair the screw hole, the best option is to replace the box. If it's nailed into a stud and can't be easily removed, you might have to cut into it and destroy it. Once it is removed, you can replace it with an old work box mounted into the existing hole.


What are some fireproof alternatives to wood framing?

I agree with Jimmy Fix-it (in a comment on the question): residential sprinklers will protect best, if you have a good (dependable) water source. They are relatively inexpensive, because the sprinkler lines can be run from the nearest water line in the house provided the domestic system can supply the flows needed (13gpm to all design sprinklers and 18gpm to any single sprinkler operating). You don't need a separate waterline, riser, fire department connections, etc.  However, be aware that when your insurance salesman says you'll save money in house insurance, you should ask him how much to add "water damage" if they accidentally go off.

But, to answer your question, the Code divides construction into 5 categories:

Type I and Type II: These types are "non combustible ", which primarily refers to concrete and steel construction. The main difference between I and II is whether the exterior and interior bearing walls need to be protected longer… it's 3 hours for Type I and 1 hour for Type II.

Type III is masonry construction using combustible inner structural members, or "ordinary construction".

Type IV is "Heavy Timber" construction. This is wood (fire treated and untreated) that is primarily thick (8" diameter!) timbers for structural members with masonry for load-bearing walls.  Partitions (non-load bearing) walls can still be 2x framing.

Type V is anything or everything else… including wood framing, straw-bales, etc.

However, all these materials are divided into sub-categories of with and without fire sprinklers. There are many many requirements with each category… like everything, it's in the details. (I.e.: non-bearing wall construction, enclosed shafts, attic construction, etc.)

In addition to what you called "fire susceptibility" construction, the code identifies "flammability " of materials. All materials fall into 3 classes: Class A: 0-25 flame rating, Class B: 26-75 flame rating and Class C: 76-200 flame rating. Most often this is what kills occupants of burned buildings. Usually, victims are dead long before the building burns up and falls down on them. Fire sprinklers will protect against this too.

I'd also invest in the best fire alarm system (with battery backup)… and some come with additional horns and carbon monoxide detectors too.


How should I treat a rusty corner bead in the bathroom before covering it again?

You want to take a moderate to fine grit sandpaper and try to sand as much of the visible rust off as possible around the outside corner.  Don't be concerned about plaster or drywall damage just yet.

Next get a good rust sealing primer like this product:

Spray liberally along the outside corner until the metal is fully covered.

Next, spackle then sand the damaged areas and hit the area once more with a regular latex based primer.  Apply two coats of paint to match the wall and you should no longer have problems with the outside corner.


Can indoor cable be connected to outdoor cable of the same gauge?

There's no problem doing what you want, as long as the junction is in a dry location.


Preparing cedar board & batten siding for new solid color acrylic stain ... what makes sense for time

Well, you're in for a ride. Solid stain's application is really no different than paint's. For woods like Cedar and Redwood that bleed a lot of tannin, you'll need 2 coats of primer after sanding down to your desired look.

Meaning, if the Cedar has heavy grain like the first picture, then you only want to lightly sand. If you want smooth, then you'll sand a lot. The best results will be from Rustoleum's Deck Start primer, it's the only acrylic one and will therefore compliment your stain's structural properties.

As far as stripping goes. For any stubborn spots I'd go with Dumond's Smart Strip, it hasn't failed me like all others have. It's expensive, but won't harm you, the grass nor the wood. It can be a come-back-tomorrow-stripper, but I think your 1-coat will be ready in a few hours. So, continue your current methods and then Smart Strip the remainder.


Toilets are typically supplied using 1/2" pipe, while it's common to use 3/4" to supply a spigot. You can certainly tee off the toilet supply and feed a spigot, though you might not quite get the flow you're expecting.  Should be fine for watering flowers, vegetables, etc. Though may come up short if you're trying to water the lawn with a sprinkler. You'll also probably notice a pressure drop off, if somebody flushes the toilet.

If you end up supplying a spigot (however you do it), I'd recommend installing a new anti-siphon frost proof sillcock. The one that's there looks like it's seen better days.


Any ideas how to replace bulb in this bathroom ceiling fan?

That white ring should be spring loaded and should just pull down maybe revealing some screws.


What are the two tubes connected to my refrigerator?

Sounds like the tubing is reversed, there is a valve that will hold pressure from one direction only. I have never seen gray line connected to main supply.
There really is no Hot water connection to a refrigerator. Although hot water will freeze faster than ambient, that would defeat the purpose of a refrigerator, by pumping in hot water. Besides the water doesn't stay on long enough for it to work well. The gray line most likely goes in a tray under your fridge. The drain from the in door water tray has to go somewhere. So I have seen them in a tray so that the heat from the compressor and fans will evaporate the wasted water and melting ice cubes.


The concern that I know of is about the size of the pipe and all appliances that can be running at the other end.  So if they ran out of a larger dimension pipe (or just had a lot of the smaller dimension) this would almost make sense.  But I'd think any normal installer would try to minimize the parts cost and split it closer to the appliances.

However, if the second appliance was added later, the existing line may have been too small, and then it would be cheaper to run a separate small line rather than replace the existing one with a new large line.


Plastic sheeting in a french drain system

Oh heck no. I go deeper than that myself and typically apply a rubber or asphault-base coating on all the masonry, then put poly over that.

Nobody, anywhere, ever said "this crawlspace is too dry".


How do I fix radiators that come on at different times?

I think you need to balance the system;  as water will always take the easier option.

So when the system first comes on most of the water will go to the radiator with the shortest pipe run, once the thermostat rad valves on that radiator shut down, then the water will find the next easier option.

So by turning down the “lockshield“ values (the value with a cover over it) on the radiator(s) that gets hot first and turning then up on the radiator that take longer to get hot, you can force the water to go to all of  your radiators.


How to better waterproof the shower area?

Yes, the tile joints do let water pass. The grout is porous, and additionally does not seal tight with the tiles as it ages (causing it to actually pull some water in via capillary action). Many tile materials are not waterproof either.

Bathroom tiling is only "waterproof" in the sense that it is a finish material that will not be damaged by water. It does not serve to create a waterproof enclosure; that needs to be built behind the tile. If that was not done correctly, any attempts to seal the grout and tile will at best only serve to delay the inevitable.


Do I need blocking between 2x8 joists with an 8-foot span in a kid's fort?

Not really. 8 feet is a fairly short span, and you're unlikely to see substantial movement even with some warpage. It certainly won't be enough to reduce the capacity of the floor to a dangerous degree. (No deck I ever recall seeing has had joist blocking.)

Minor point of clarification: Blocking doesn't reduce cupping (curvature of lumber across the grain). It prevents displacement (curving) of the joist along its length. That's not typically referred to as "cupping".

One further suggestion... Typically flush beams (rim joists acting as beams) are sized larger than the common joists because their load is much larger. I'd either double yours, increase the rim size to 2x10, or reduce the common joists to 2x6, depending on your stiffness standards. 2x6 joists on 16" centers are adequate for a playhouse of that size, IMO.


I need to replace the spring-loaded lighting cover for the light in the tub

Trim kits for "can lights" (recessed lights) are sold separately.

The box stores have them or you can find them online. Like this one here.

For a shower/tub enclosure you need a trim kit rated for wet locations. It will have the gasket and springs like the old one.

Take the old one to the store with you to make sure you get the right size. They come in 4, 5, and 6" sizes. Or measure the "can" part of the fixture if you wish to buy online.

Good luck!


How can I repair a cinder block wall around a sewer line?

I would fill the wall around the pipe with hydraulic cement to get a water-tight seal.

Both the PVC and the rubber boot need UV protection. Those should be buried under at least 6 inches of dirt (that was the recommendation of the inspector when I had to do a similar repair).


How to best reconfigure this plumbing for cabinet replacement

If that was my house, I would end up jackhammering up all of the copper supply lines coming out of the slab, or capping them off and abandoning them. Copper supply lines can develop pinholes over time if directly exposed to concrete and create a leak inside of the slab. Leaks like this are not always discovered quickly, and the repairs can be costly. There could actually be a leak now without even knowing about it. Sometimes the only way to tell is that the water bill suddenly becomes much higher than usual. Depending on your locale, direct bury of copper supply lines is also against code.

It appears that all of this work was not originally done by a licensed plumber. A licensed plumber would not have split off the supply from the main sink for the bar sink. They also would not be allowed to install saddle valves. There appears to be 4 in total. I am not sure what they are going to. I am guessing one is for the refrigerator, or a reverse osmosis system, but I am not sure. The drain is also running uphill which would cause the sink to become clogged on a regular basis. There is evidence of a leak there because the wall is stained and has mold on it.

The first thing to do is to shut the water off to that entire area. Find where the supply originally goes into the slab, and then shut the water off there. If no shutoff exists, then you will need to install one. Cut the pipe off and either cap it, or break open the slab where the pipe is and remove it.

Since you have a slab, I would recommend running the new supply lines above the ceiling and down the wall. Since the supply is going to be on an outside wall, I recommend using PEX instead of copper due to the freeze risk. Instead of branching off of those supplies, I recommend running separate supplies for the bar sink, fridge, dishwasher, refrigerator, etc.

The next step would be to address the drain. Remove the drywall immediately surrounding the drain. You want to expose the stack in the wall and make sure that it is vented. The drain for the dishwasher is not in line with the sink drain, so I am not sure what is going on inside of the wall. Assuming that it is all one drain, cut the stack right above the bottom wye, and above the upper wye and remove the piece. Install a new wye and use a piece of pipe and a coupler to reconnect the vent to the stack. When doing this, you want to check the height of the inlet to make sure that it is in the correct position for the rest of the plumbing. You don't want it so high that there will be water in the bottom of your sink, and you wouldn't want it so low that you could not install the trap without it hitting the bottom of the cabinet. Once that is in place, then you can install the trap adapter to the wye. The adapter has a compression fitting and allows you to completely unhook the trap for cleaning. You would not want to glue it in like it is now.

You can run the drain directly into the garbage disposal. In order to prevent the sink from backing up into the dishwasher, you can attach the middle of the line directly under your countertop. This is often called a high loop. The water from the sink will partially go down the line, but stop before it siphons into the dishwasher.

The rest of the plumbing would be done after the cabinets and sink has been installed. Before the rest of the plumbing is installed, you will want to block off the drain with a test plug, or a rag. If you use a rag, be careful to not allow it to fall down the drain. It would be nearly impossible to retrieve it.


Do I need to remove this enclosed shower and check for mold?

First go to a home store and look at how this style tub and shower surround are built.
Next realize the tub has a lip that extends up and the bulge at the base of the surround is to overlap the lip on the tub.

If you want to purchase a new surround try removing it,
You have probably shot some water up inside the wall and that can cause mold.

If you want to keep mold from becoming a problem seal the joint with a latex calking or any silicone bathroom calking with mold inhibitors.

Whatever you do don’t pull the drain and see all the gunk hair and? in the drain or you may want to move out.

Seal the joint and forget about it would be my advice.


Is unpainted drywall with mud/joint compound dangerous to be around?

At best, breathing drywall or drywall compound (mud) dust can irritate your respiratory system and is best avoided.  One problem is that it is very fine and if you sand it much, you need to use special masks that can filter the fine particles, plus you don't want to use a regular vacuum to clean it up - I believe it will clog the filters.  This mainly concerns people who work with it regularly, and a small amount is normally not anything to worry about unless it causes physical respiratory symptoms.  Some people are more susceptible to this, like asthma sufferers.

I would want to at least paint the walls and joints with primer paint as soon as possible.  I'm surprised if that has not been done.


To answer the OP's question:

No you only need one breaker where the conductors recieve their supply. (At the main panel). The breaker needs to be sized the protect the conductors the well pump should have internal protection for the motor.

You didn't say whether your #4 was copper or aluminum. It makes a big difference. I will do both calculations with Ed Beal's numbers for the K factors (I usually use 10.4 for copper and 17.0 for aluminum which would yield smaller wires but warm wire has a higher K factor so I will use the hire numbers.)

A 2 hp 230 volt motor draws 12 amps according to the NEC. Using the voltage drop formula solved for area in circular mils. Acm= K x I x 2L /VD
With a 3% voltage drop the recommended number from the NEC yields 25,800 cm for copper which is a little smaller than #6 at 26,240 cm. so if you have #4 copper you have plenty of wire.

However the same calculation with aluminum yields 42,400 and #4 is 41,740 so you would actually need #2 if it is aluminum.

Voltage drops are recommendations from the National Electrical Code and are not an enforceable part of the code. Voltage drop calculations are performed with full load running currents not with startup currents. They recommend 3% for a branch circuit or feeder and 5% total between the two. Since this is a branch circuit the recommended amount is 3% or 7.2 volts.

tl;dr You are good with #4 copper wire. The breaker size depends on the manufacturers recommendation for your well pump, or I need to know if you are using an inverse time breaker or instantaneous trip.


How to refinish a rubberwood and veneer coffee table top?

Another approach -- one a pro furniture repair tech might use for a flaw this size or smaller -- would be to use "burn in" lacquer, blended to match the color, to both tint the damaged area and fill it level with the undamaged area surrounding it. (I haven't done this; I've watched it being done and he swore it wasn't that hard a skill to learn if you practiced on scrap first.)


Just add up all the parts:

Bracket - your questions says "about 1 inches" but I usually find these types of brackets (but haven't used exactly this one) are a bit thinner than 1 inch
Cabinet back - varies, might not be any at all
Drywall or other wall material - typically 1/2"
Between 1 inch and 2 inches into the stud. Studs are nominally 3-1/2" thick, but if there is any possibility of wires going through the studs then you don't want to go more than 1-1/2" in.

So that makes a total of 2-1/2" to 3" typical.
As noted elsewhere, don't use drywall screws. They are handy, but they are not designed to hold a heavy load, which is important for shelving brackets.


What length of posts do I need to get a deck 5 feet above ground level?

You should use concrete footers in concrete form tubes buried in the ground deep enough to meet the code in your area. ( below frost line ). You need to use the apropriate size for your soil and the weight of the deck you are building. The concrete footer would extend  above the ground by a few inches, you would then use a Simpson post bracket anchored into the concrete to set your post on/in. This keeps the bottom of the post from sitting in any water that may accumulate on the top of the footer.

The height of the post will be the distance from the top of the bracket on the concrete footer to the bottom of the beam that caries the deck joists. You will need the determine that length once you you have the footers in place and you have the height of the deck joist and the dimensions of the beam you are using.


How can I remove tile grout from floorboards?

Scraper. This is going to be a tough job if you want to keep damage to the wood to a minimum. It does look like the floor has some type of finish on it before the grout material was applied. This should help a lot to make the scraping removal a bit more practical.

Note that what ever type of scraper that you use will likely need replacement or resharpening a number of times in your removal process.


How do I remove stuck (melted?) foam from under carpet on hardwood floor?

Probably you are hoping to spray some Miracle Vanishing Formula™, instantly wipe, and be good as new.  Maybe it is possible to do that, or use a putty knife carefully.

In the end, you will probably have added scratches, and there are probably defects and worn portions screaming for refinishing.  So why not skip to the (seemingly) inevitable conclusion: maybe now is a great time to refinish the whole floor.

Rent a floor sander, either a drum sander, floor stripper, or square buff sander and take off the foam, varnish, and thin layer of the wood.

Usually, it is best to remove floor edge molding to get all the way to the walls, but if the molding is expensive or hard to remove, it is not unreasonable to do a best effort with the edge sander (above right) or an orbital with a shield.

Then add floor finish, sand, buff, and refinish again.  It is a lot of work and has to be spread out over at least three days with no use of the room, but it can really revive an iffy room and make it one you can be proud of.


Electrical Help: Swap 50A Range for separate Cooktop & insert Oven (30A each)

Actually with no structural changes it may be a redecorating project. In several states that I have lived many people doing cosmetic updates like your project do not know the proper terms.
With the wrong term they end up doing way more than what is required.
for example in my current state if the receptacle is not moved more than 6’ the original wiring is allowed (we are on the 17 code with state exceptions until April).
In this case if the wiring is properly sized a large junction box being tapped for both devices MAY be acceptable is the box accessible after the work is complete? it all goes back to the AHJ so the location would be needed to know for sure but when the home was built the tap that you want was acceptable see NEC 210.19.3  and for a picture see exhibit 210.24. Last if tapped from the junction box to the next device usually requires conduit.
I do agree with most of Retired master electricians answer but the jurisdiction here is a big deal and I would not be pulling a new feeder if I could be in compliance with my state requirements. If you happened to have 3 insulated conductors (unlikely but possible) pulling a single ground wire I would do to bring up to the current code.


Error code UE on Kenmore Elite Front Load Model 79641162410

Another possibility is the shipping bolts were not removed before operation.  From the Owner's Manual:

  To prevent internal damage during transport, the washer is equipped
  with four shipping bolts and plastic retainers.

  IMPORTANT:

  These shipping bolts and retainers MUST NOT be removed until just before moving the washer into its final position.
  These bolts and retainers MUST be removed before operating the washer.
  Failure to remove shipping bolts and retainers may cause severe vibration and noise, which can lead to permanent damage to the washer.


How do I hang curtains on a cutout like this?

Attach your brackets to the upper window molding as close to the edge as possible.


How to add GFCI-protected switches and lights to a 2-wire garage circuit

Your first diagram is almost correct.  The receptacles need to be wired in parallel, but so do the lights. The lights can be GFCI protected, but they're likely not required to be (unless they're in a shower in your garage).

Something more like this

You also need a neutral at the switch, even in you don't use it. So it might look more like this.


Changing a 240v plug with 4 wires to 240v plug 3 wires

It looks like your wires are in conduit.  You need to follow the wires a bit more and figure out what they're being used for.  They should go back to a circuit breaker, and it should be a 2-pole (240V) breaker.  Turning off that breaker should turn off two of the wires.  I have no idea what's going on with the third (black) wire.

Those are the two wires to put on L1 and L2 on your NEMA 6-20 receptacle.  The ground goes to ground obviously.  NEMA 6 does not use neutral.


Generally fire code will require that any exposed wiring (not run through metal conduit) be behind sheet rock or some other wall board.

I would imagine the same is true for plumbing.

The logic here is that you can't pull, bump or otherwise disrupt wires and pipes if they are behind a wall.

I don't know the particulars of code in MSP BUT I can't imagine that they allow exposed pipes and wiring.


If the leak is from under the nut at the handle, remove the nut and the handle. Under the handle may be a nut. If so this is a packing nut. Tighten the nut clockwise just a bit at a time until the drip quits. If there is no packing nut then replace the handle and tighten the nut for the handle: this nut could be doing double duty as a packing nut and to hold the handle on. If neither attempt stops the drip you may have to replace the valve.


How do I connect the ground wires to the new light fixture?

You made your life a lot easier by keeping your nose out of the junction box, and not messing with that rather important bundle in the back that rather importantly needs to be not messed with (for a skilled person that is the Rosetta Stone for what's happening in this box.)

Grounds

In electrical, grounds are the easiest.  Their color-codes actually mean something and all grounds go together always.  Ground color codes are Green, Yellow-Green, or Bare, and are standardized worldwide except the former Soviet Bloc.  It's also two-way -- those colors are always ground and ground is always those colors.

All those ground wires should be spliced with any grounds from the lamp.   Use a red or tan (i.e. large) wire nut.

I also see a green screw on the fan junction box; get about 9" of bare #12 ground wire from a local hardware store (one that sells it by the foot) and wrap one end around the screw (clockwise) then tighten.  Add that wire to the aforementioned bundle of grounds.

Neutral is not ground.  This "grounds always together/always that color" does not apply to neutrals. Sometimes separate groups of neutral must remain separated, and white wires aren't always neutral.

Rest of the wires

The two groups of wires dangling down are the ones you want to hook your new light to.

The light's black wire(s) go to the solo black.  A yellow wire nut will be perfect.

The light's white wire(s) go to the two white wires, which must also stay together.  A yellow wire-nut will be fine unless there are several bulky wires from the fixture, in which case use a red/tan.


Why are these electrical outlets interconnected?

Very likely the actual path is: Out of the wall, into one socket, on to the next socket, and then back into the wall to some other socket or other load on the same circuit.
Have you identified the circuit breaker which feeds these (which would be a good sign) or breakers (something would be wrong if you need to turn off two breakers to turn these two off.) See what else is on the circuit that shuts off when you shut these off.


Is there an NEC-compliant method of repairing minor damage to electrical wire insulation without a junction box?

You can repair anyway you want, but for it to be repaired and the UL still good, you have to use something like 3M 2234 Cable repair kit.

Here's some info on it

If it is romex you are best to cut the bad part out and use a junction box (or 2) to put in the good piece.  If it is in the wall then you might have to change out the whole run.  With ARC Fault breakers (AFCI) slowly becoming code in more than just bedrooms it could create a problem.


How to fill 4" width gap between the walls and alcove bathtub door

This isn't the only way to approach this, but since many shower doors have a U shaped channel that covers another U shaped channel (that's been attached to the wall), you could use box section aluminum -- 2"x1" (assuming that the 1" dimension meshes well with your chosen door) on both sides. Your local metal supplier probably won't have this in stock, but you could order from them or the internet generally.

Tip: drill a weep hole at the bottom of the 2x1 that drains to the tub so that you don't inadvertently get standing water in the tube.


If a light bulb is dead, does it still consume electricity if the switch is in ON?

It depends on the type of bulb.

Regular incandescents won't consume any electricity if the bulb is dead, since there's no continuous path for the current to take. It's just like an open switch.

With CFLs and LEDs, it depends on why the bulb burned out, but in general they will consume some amount of electricity even when burned out. Some CFLs may even consume up to 50% as much as a good bulb (older link, but a lot of burned out bulbs may be old). Newer bulbs may have circuits which eliminate most electricity usage on dead bulbs, as this answer from the electronics stack shows.

Smart bulbs have additional electronics, and so would consume even more electricity than an equivalent non-smart bulb, assuming of course that it's not the smart electronics that died.

The only way to be sure is to measure the usage, with a device like a Kill-a-Watt meter. You would need to install the bulb in a lamp or other fixture with a plug.


What tool should I use to cut through a wall to get to my attic?

Yes, a drywall saw is the tool to use. But for a hole big enough to crawl through, I would not bother with 45 degree cuts. It's more work when making long cuts and is not secure enough to support large patch panels. Cut out a panel all the way to adjoining studs. Then cut out an additional 3/4" strip each side so the replacement panel can bear directly on 1/2 of each stud. You can use a utility knife and chisel to remove the strip. You will hit screws or nails while cutting the strip, remove them as they are found. When installing the new panel, use a new fastener on each side of the joint where ever you found a fastener.

The plain butt joint at top and bottom is not a problem because your patch panel is spanning between studs. You may want to consider installing a removable plywood panel and casing the opening rather than patching the drywall.


A question - were there elevated spore levels in the rest of the house? It sounds like you disturbed something removing the old drywall. If that's the case you might be OK.

You need to identify the source. Once you've done that you can usually deal with the problem yourself.

The hard part is going to be identifying the source. Mould is usually caused by condensation on the walls, which in turn is caused by poor ventilation and insulation. So there's warm, damp air in the room which when it comes in contact with the cold wall forms condensation.

If there was no visible mould before removing the drywall, then you should be all right - but I'm not an expert so please don't quote me on that.

When you replace the drywall make sure you install adequate insulation and ventilation in the room and then perhaps test again for spores before decorating. If the levels are still high then you'll need to do more investigation.


How do I keep my corner pergola from wobbling?

You need to install knee braces every where you can. (The diagonal piece)

Ideally, the ends should be tightly dadoed a small amount into the beam and post to minimize the inevitable play that develops in connections made solely of mechanical fasteners. The bigger the brace the better, within reason. The best bracing would be the grand-daddy of knee braces-- X-bracing.


I  brightened the picture in Photoshop and confirmed there is only one /3 cable coming into this box.   That makes it 1 of 3 possibilities.

The far "spur/loop" end of a 3-way switch complex.
A modern "switch loop" which brings Always-hot, Switched-hot and Neutral (for smart switches).
The ceiling box is fan-rated with an obsolete "switch loop", but with an extra wire for separate control of light and fan.

In the last 2 cases, the cables in the wall are the same; you get to decide which of the two it will be, by how you wire it in the ceiling.
This much for sure, we have to see the wiring up in the lamp box to know any more.  There is definitely at least one more cable up there.  We need to see how they are interconnected, and whether the box has a "Fan Rated" marking.
P.S. Make sure your smart switch has a UL, CSA or ETL listing.  We see a LOT of cheap junk flooding the flea-markety mail order channels like eBay, Banggood, DealExtreme and unfortunately Amazon has opened their site to the eBay gang.  The junk even ships with Prime because they opened their warehouses too.
Edit:
Given that there is apparently no existing ceiling box, it is most likely a switched receptacle.  If there is no ceiling light the only other way to meet Code is a switched receptacle.  That greatly increases the likelihood of the second possibility.
Often, rooms are wired with red-white-black circling the room.  Black is always-hot, red is switched-hot and white is neutral. Most receptacles are punched down to black and white (always hot).  The switched receptacle is punched down to red and white.  It was uncommon to extend the /3 all the way to the switch until 2011, but hey, OK :)
Often, such an installation will use a "split" receptacle (tab broken off on the hot side) to allow each socket's hot to be fed from a different wire.  One socket gets red (switched) and the other gets black (unswitched).
This would also jibe with the observation that red and black are both hot.  Very often, a dumb novice comes along who is changing receptacles for aesthetic reasons. They don't even know tabs are a thing. So they don't look for broken tabs, and they don't break the tab off on the new recep.  This has the effect of shorting black and red, making the switch ineffective.  The switch stops working, they shrug their shoulders and resign themselves to switching lights off at the floor lamp.
So my working theory is you inherited the above situation.  You'll need to open up the receptacle boxes in the room and see what  you can see.  It may simply be a matter of snapping off the right tab.


French drain - emitter or other water dispersal method?

Ending the perf pipe slightly below grade will cause the water to back up and not drain.

I like placing large rocks (2” - 6”) around the pipe outlet. This allows the water to flow out and is dispersed out on the surface without eroding the ground. (I try not to use small rocks, because they get “washed” out in heavy rain.)


Can a 290mm x 45mm lvl beam be used as a structural ridge beam?

This would depend on if you're building a dog house, shed, home or villa.

You are asking for specific answers about an obscure subject.  Gather your information about the project and speak with a Qualified and Licensed Engineer in the jurisdiction that you will be doing the work.


Installing a wireless remote switch for a ceiling fan in an existing single gang box

Yes, that will do it. Just remember to turn off the breaker and test wires to make sure they are not energized.


What are the considerations for crawlspace encapsulation barriers / humidity control?

I use a standalone humidity reducer in the wettest room of my house. I've used one in a finished basement too, when it got too damp down there we ran it. For about $100 USD you can get a decent dehumidifier that plugs into a regular wall socket. It works by pulling water from the air. They also produce heat, which will raise the room temperature a little when it's running, helping the drying process. Most of them have a way to attach a hose and run the water directly to a drain if you don't want to manually empty the bucket. Otherwise you'll have to empty the basin a couple times a day when the room is very wet. I opted to buy a larger machine with a bigger collection basin so I don't have to empty it as often.

$5000 to throw heavy plastic over the crawlspace floor sounds ridiculous. We had our whole basement cleaned, insulated, and sheeted over dirt floors for less than half that cost. You might want to get a few more bids or consider a DIY.


Is there any way I can repair this PVC/conduit that carries sprinkler system wire from the ground into my garage?

There's really only 2 ways to address this issue:

Do it properly and replace that section of conduit. This will require removing the wires, but it is a permanent and visually appealing fix.
Get a split coupling or repair clamp and solvent-weld or fasten it over the damaged area.

Repair Clamp:

Split Coupling:


Which tools should not be operated while wearing gloves?

from OSHA Guide for Protecting Workers from Woodworking Hazards

Hand and Arm Protection

Your workers' hands and arms will need protection from burns, bruises, abrasions, cuts, and exposure to the chemicals used in finishing.

Protective gloves are the primary means available for direct hand protection. Extra-long gauntlets or sleeves attached to the gloves can extend protection up the arm. However, the appropriateness of glove use in the woodworking workplace should be carefully reviewed on a task-by-task basis. Gloves should not be worn when operating woodworking equipment due to the potential for getting caught in moving parts.


Painted concrete floor surface leveler alternatives

I think I'd be looking at something like Gyp-Crete, which will level and smooth the base. This creates an ideal surface for floating laminate or engineered wood floors. You'll probably want to apply an appropriate sealer as well.


Is it possible to install a frost-proof sillcock on a steel plate?

Sure. You can install a spigot on virtually any solid surface. If you can't drill fasteners into the material, it may be feasible to use silicone, spray foam, or another substance to anchor the pipe in the hole, making for a solid installation.


How do I find where mice are entering my house?

Sprinkle flour or talcum powder on the floor.  Mice will leave tracks in the powder, eventually revealing entry points or nests.  You don't have to blanket the entire floor, just near the walls/borders of the rooms, and "as needed" until you have the evidence you seek.  Keep in mind that their typical range is 12-20 feet from their nest.

Look for mouse droppings.

Use an ultraviolet light to find urine stains.

Use light. If you can make the room dark, look for sunlight shining through cracks from outside.  Or, wait until dark and shine a light through possible cracks, either from inside or outside, and have an assistant on the other side alert you to any light shining through.

Watch for drafts. If you're in a cold climate such as Minnesota, wait until it is -20 degrees Fahrenheit, so that you can feel the cold air blasting through the mouse hole.  (That's how I found an entry point recently.  The cold air was flowing into a basement crevice such that I could see a spider web waving in the air.  Turns out there was a crack where an addition had been put on the house.  This was confirmed by shining a light as described above.)


How do you get rid of flies that like to hang out on the side of my house in the sun?

If you are looking for an ecological solution, then bear in mind that many types of lizard (and chameleons) feed off flies. Since they also like to hang out on sunny walls, you may have a meeting of minds here. This is why such animals are usually welcome in homes in sunny places such as Valencia, Spain (called "dracs").

Just remember that cats also like to eat lizards, so this will only work in a feline-free area.


Connecting Carrier Infinity furnace to Aprilaire humidfier

The simplest way to hook up is to the W terminal and the C terminal. Like this.

The HUM terminal may be 120v or 24v if it's next to the low voltage connections (R C W G Y not necessarily exactly like this) then it will be 24v ALWAYS check with a volt meter. If HUM is off by itself or next to E. A. C. terminal then it's 120v. Either way it will only be live when the burner and the fan are on


What is the name of the metal base plate wher you can install a vise (or any other tool)?

There are a number of these table mounted base plates out there. If you've got a wood work bench you might find that this type serves your needs.


How do I diagnose why my casement window is leaking?

Are you sure that the weep holes are not blocked? This issue should be notated in your owner's manual. Otherwise, the window may not have been correctly sloped and flashed in the frame, and it took this long for water infiltration to evidence. Is there rot on the underside of the window, when opened? Older Pella awning windows had a problem similar to this.


I have 1/2 electricity in my master bedroom, exterior walls have no power

Turn off the breaker, are all the outlets dead now? Start with the last outlet that was working prior to turning off the breaker pull it out.
If the wires are pushed in to the back of the outlet push in and pull out on each one, if the wire pulls loose that outlet may need to be replaced.
If the wires are pigtailed make sure the wire nuts are tight.then go to the first dead outlet. if no problems are found start at the other end(outlets are normally daisy chained and it will be the last good one or first dead one not passing power to the others. Other than recent construction damaging a wire the above check has fixed many dead outlets.


Home Security Camera that is easy to turn off

There are likely cameras that have such a feature. But a simple solution is:

Use wired cameras, not WiFi
Connect all the cameras to one network switch. If you are using PoE then you are likely to do that anyway, unless you have other PoE devices such as VOIP phones.
Turn the "camera network switch" off/on as needed.

If the cameras have no substantial memory of their own, then you could actually leave the network switch "on" but disconnect it from the rest of the network. That would avoid any power-cycle issues as the cameras would not lose power, while still preventing broadcast to a recorder (whether local or in the cloud).


subpanel breaker tripped as well as main breaker - should I be concerned?

Grats on your successful generator test :)
Whenever you have a bolted fault, you flow hundreds of amps.  The only thing that impedes flow is the resistance of the wires themselves, which you can look up on the internet.  "Hundreds of amps" is well within the range of the "instant trip" functionality of every breaker in the panel except perhaps the main.
Due to manufacturing tolerances and environment changes, "instant trip" has an acceptable range.  The acceptable range runs between 4x and 10x, where it becomes a guaranteed trip.
So for instance, a 500A bolted fault is a guaranteed trip for a 15A and 50A breaker, and a possible trip for a 100A main breaker.  Probably will not trip a 200A main.
If your short had flowed only 90 amps, both breakers would operate in thermal-trip mode (most likely). The 15A breaker would see a 6x overload, and the 50A breaker would see a 1.8x overload.  The 15A breaker would trip in a few seconds at most, and the 50A breaker would trip in a few minutes, based on the usual trip curves for breakers. In that case, the "selective coordination" you were hoping for would work as you'd expect.
However, all bets are off in a bolted-fault/instant-trip mode.


Will a SimpliSafe security system which include smoke detectors qualify under fire panel exception for the NEC's AFCI requirements?

Since you have separate appliances, it's a NFPA 72 residential (combination) system, and thus 760.41 and its associated exceptions apply

You are correct that NEC 760.41(B) waives GFCI and AFCI requirements for power sources to fire alarm systems; in fact, it outright prohibits the use of GFCIs and AFCIs on fire alarm system power sources:

  (B) Branch Circuit. The branch circuit supplying the fire
  alarm equipment(s) shall supply no other loads. The location
  of the branch-circuit overcurrent protective device shall be
  permanently identified at the fire alarm control unit. The
  circuit disconnecting means shall have red identification, shall
  be accessible only to qualified personnel, and shall be identified as “FIRE ALARM CIRCUIT.” The red identification shall
  not damage the overcurrent protective devices or obscure the
  manufacturer's markings. This branch circuit shall not be
  supplied through ground-fault circuit interrupters or arc-fault
  circuit-interrupters.

However, in order to apply this, we need to know what sort of fire alarm system we have, and in order to do that, we need to turn to NFPA 72, which is the governing code in the USA for fire alarms of all sorts (from single station smoke detectors to massive systems that link together multiple high-rise buildings).

In the SimpliSafe's case, the system, in order to perform its fire alarming function, requires:

At least one compatible smoke detector (initiating device)
The base station/central hub (fire alarm control unit)
And some sort of sounder (notification appliance)

Since we have separate parts involved, we know it doesn't fit the definition of a single station alarm as those are defined as all-in-one units by NFPA 72:

  3.3.245 Single Station Alarm. A detector comprising an assembly that incorporates a sensor, control components, and
  an alarm notification appliance in one unit operated from a
  power source either located in the unit or obtained at the
  point of installation.

And, since we're not dealing with single station alarms, we know it's not a multiple station alarm either:

  3.3.149 Multiple Station Alarm. A single station alarm capable
  of being interconnected to one or more additional alarms so
  that the actuation of one causes the appropriate alarm signal
  to operate in all interconnected alarms.

From that point, we can deduce that it is a fire alarm system:

  3.3.95 Fire Alarm System. A system or portion of a combination system that consists of components and circuits arranged
  to monitor and annunciate the status of fire alarm or supervisory signal-initiating devices and to initiate the appropriate
  response to those signals.

and from the fact it's in a dwelling unit (house), we can then determine that it's a household fire alarm system:

  3.3.95.2 Household Fire Alarm System. A system of devices
  that uses a fire alarm control unit to produce an alarm
  signal in the household for the purpose of notifying the
  occupants of the presence of a fire so that they will evacuate
  the premises.

that also happens to be a combination system:

  3.3.95.1* Combination System. A fire alarm system in which
  components are used, in whole or in part, in common with
  a non-fire signaling system.

as it can perform the other functions expected of a household alarm system, such as burglary alarming.

As a result of this, since we have a fire alarm system using a separate fire alarm control unit:

  3.3.92* Fire Alarm Control Unit. (FACU) A component of the
  fire alarm system, provided with primary and secondary power
  sources, which receives signals from initiating devices or other
  fire alarm control units, and processes these signals to determine part or all of the required fire alarm system output function(s).

, we then treat the power source to the fire alarm control unit as a power source to a NPLFA circuit, which invokes NEC 760.41.  (Granted, NFPA 72 itself is evolving in this regard, and as of 2016, best I can tell, is not as stringent as the NEC is here.)


Z-Wave Dimmer Wiring in 3-Way Configuration

Well, I did a fair amount of investigating so I'll answer my own question here in case someone else comes across it in a search.

I have two switches.  A primary switch with a dimmer and a secondary switch.  The secondary switch has line, ground, and 2 travelers.  The primary switch has 2 travelers and load.

That's why the secondary switch has only one wire group coming in and the primary has 2.  One 12/2 is for the load and the other 12/2 has the travelers.

As for the ZWave switch for this configuration, there are myriad options.  I did get a ZWave dimmer in there repurposing one of the travelers to get line into the dimmer box from the secondary box.

This, unfortunately, precludes putting the secondary switch in.

Most ZWave secondary remotes I've seen require a neutral line which I don't have in the secondary box.

There are some ZWave remotes that don't require a neutral but they're often powered by a small trickle of current that can cause LEDs to light dimly or for fluorescent ballasts to flicker and be damaged.

I have a plan for how to update this wiring so that I can get both switches to operate again and I'll update this answer if I come up with something.


How to wire programmable thermostat that doesn't have an E termimal

Your Lux TX1500E thermostat is not made to be used with a Heat Pump system with emergency heat, so it can't be used in your installation.  Lux has an updated model, TX1500U that is made for "heat pumps with up to 2-stage heat/1 stage cool".


how do I fix hinges to sandstone (that is quite soft)

You could drill out larger holes, then fill with epoxy, then mount the hinges through the epoxy. But that seems like a lot of work.

I'd instead install a post alongside the wall and use the post.


Does the ground pigtail to the jbox need to match the largest circuit?

It needs to match the circuit grounding conductors in size, basically

The clearest indication of the minimum size a box grounding jumper needs to be comes from NEC 250.146 (emphasis mine):

  250.146 Connecting Receptacle Grounding Terminal to Box.
  An equipment bonding jumper shall be used to connect the
  grounding terminal of a grounding-type receptacle to a grounded box unless grounded as in 250.146(A) through (D). The
  equipment bonding jumper shall be sized in accordance with
  Table 250.122 based on the rating of the overcurrent device
  protecting the circuit conductors.

This basically requires the box grounding jumper to be at least as large as the minimum size ground conductor permitted for a circuit of that amp rating.  Further support for the OP's position, where the grounding jumper to the box must be the size of the largest ground wire coming into the box even if that ground wire is oversized as per NEC 250.122(B), comes from the precise text of NEC 250.148(C):

  (C) Metal Boxes. A connection shall be made between the
  one or more equipment grounding conductors and a metal
  box by means of a grounding screw that shall be used for no
  other purpose, equipment listed for grounding, or a listed
  grounding device.

In particular, since it basically implies that the jumper between the grounding screw and the equipment grounding conductors coming into the box is an equipment grounding conductor, it means that this jumper must comply with all the equipment grounding conductor sizing rules in NEC 250.122 in order to conform with this section of the NEC.


You can use a regular BR2xx (two pole) breaker for this

As you can see in the picture below just to the right of the breaker's UL mark, Eaton BR two-pole breakers have the screwhole required by the BR backfeed retainer kit as a stock feature of the breaker frame:

As a result, you can simply use a two-pole Eaton BR breaker of the appropriate amp rating for this, given your current hardware constraints.  (It won't be 100% Code unless you pull the N-G bond out of your genset, but it won't zap any linesmen, at least!)


How does this power outlet configuration in my new home work?

I've seen installations like this before, and I think you're missing a piece of the puzzle.

First step, is to get that cord out of the wall.

In a typical instsllation, the male receptacle at the bottom of the wall is connected to the upper receptacle via NM cable (or other approved wiring method).   The male end of a cord (like the one in the wall in your case) plugs into a nearby receptacle, while the female end plugs into the male receptacle (like the one in your photo).  This cord passes power to the upper receptacle, via the NM cable within the wall.

I'm not sure if this is how your setup is wired, since you say the receptacles are connected to the mains.  But this is how a typical Installation works.

You should be able to verify this with a multimeter (when you have access to one). With nothing connected, neither of the receptacles should have power.   You should also be able to get continuity between the receptacles.

Plugging the cord in as described above, should supply power to the upper receptacle.


Should I put caulk/silicone at base of toilet on hardwood floors?

I think you're confusing the terms "caulk" and "silicone" for the colors "white" and "clear".  A lot of caulks are made from silicone rubber, and they can be white or clear (or other colors).

To answer your question, I would use a clear caulk around the base of the toilet as it will look better next to the wood.  I've always used caulk because it prevents any, uh, splashes, from running under the toilet where they'd be hard to clean up.  Leave a small gap at the back of the toilet so that if you do have leaks, they'll have somewhere to drain to and you'll be able to tell.


What's the best way to adjust a leaning gate post?

My first thought is a guy wire from the top corner of the post, with a turnbuckle in the middle to tension it up and pull out that lean in the post. It seems that if you don't do something like this, the only alternative IS to reset the posts, which is a lot of work.
Hope this helps.

This is what a turnbuckle looks like:


Shower light blinks immediately after vent fan is turned off

First, "until the fan stops spinning" is straightforward enough — a simple AC motor that is spinning but without power applied will act as a generator, supplying the electricity that the switched supply isn't any more. The higher efficiency of LED lighting — and the electronic LED driver circuits used — mean that they can run from lower voltages where an incandescent bulb would be too dim to see.

If your light and fan were on the same switch, this would be enough to explain things. But you imply they aren't because you say the light turns on rather than that it was already on.

There must be something electrically weird going on beyond what I've described so far, to completely explain things. I would suggest updating your question with photos of the interior of the fan and the light pulled apart, and if you have any type of “smart” switch rather than a simple toggle, give the details of that.


Moisture Resistant Drywall unavailable in 5/8

Densarmor paperless board comes in 5/8" thicknesses.

I prefer densarmor for moist areas as there's no paper for any mold or mildew to grow on.


covering a baseboard heater gap and fire hazard

I would not mount an electric baseboard heater on wire mesh.  Baseboard heaters have UL listings for installation and I doubt wire mesh is acceptable.
That wire mesh could heat up and catch the drywall paper on fire (or any paper that falls behind the unit.) The heating element is held out (away from) from the metal baseboard heater enclosure for a reason.
I’d seal the openings with plaster. It doesn’t have to be pretty, it’s going to be covered.


Can an outlet be installed in the blank door panel in front of a sink?

It's no more wrong than an outlet in any permanent cabinetry.  Which is to say, not.

However, it seems rather useless. Kitchen appliances have cords only 2 feet long.  I do not see how you could make any use of it without draping cords across the sink, the very thing Code seeks to avoid!

As far as Code requirements to have kitchen counter receptacles within 24" of any counter space, this outlet won't meet that requirement brcause its use is impracticable.  If cutting a hole in the counter for a flat-mount receptacle does not appeal, I would use a pendant dropped down from the ceiling.  Pendants are awesome.

As far as GFCI, do you really have to ask?  It is within 6 feet of a sink!  Of course the GFCI doesn't have to be right there; it can be a plain outlet protected by a GFCI somewhere else.


How can I replace a 4-wire manual thermostat with a programmable thermostat?

Check the wires on the terminal strip in your furnace they should be labeled, match the letters R-R W-W Y-Y G-G from the furnace to the thermostat and usually the colors should match also so: r-red g-green y-yellow and w-white.


Why is my bathroom drain stinky even after being cleaned out?

Foul odors are usually due to the water seal in the P-trap failing for some reason. Sometimes the water simply evaporates in little used fixtures. Probably not the case here. The other cause for failure is the lack of proper venting. Without a proper vent, the water seal gets siphoned out of the P-trap after the fixture is used.

If you have an air admittance valve serving as a vent, it could be failing to open properly, or it could be stuck open, allowing sewer gases to enter the room via that path rather than the P-trap. These devices should be accessible. Simply manipulating the valve disc by hand can dislodge it from it's stuck position and allow it to work again. Or the device might have failed and needs replacement.

You quite possibly do not have an AAV, but the more common vent through the roof. This time of year in Northern climes, the vent could become obstructed by ice or snow. Simply clearing the blockage will solve the problem. It's also possible a bird decided the vent would make a nice warm nesting site. Other vent problems could be more endemic of the installation itself, being either undersized or even non-existent or otherwise ineffective, or an alternative, less effective, trap arrangement such as S-traps or drum traps. If you've lived there for a while and the odors just started happening, these endemic issues are probably unlikely.


How to remove junction box that is nailed on?

The two items that you were thinking are nails are in fact almost 100% sure to be rivets. See yollow circles in the below picture.

Picture Source
These rivets secure some type of metal bracket to this phenolic/bakelite box. The bracket is then either nailed to the adjacent ceiling joist or to a rail that bridges between two joists. Trying to remove this box without entering the area above (if that is even possible) will usually require opening up the ceiling drywall or plaster leading to a much bigger repair job.
It would not be advisable to replace this box with an old work type box that is just secured to the edges of the ceiling drywall. Such box would never been up to handling the installation of a ceiling fan/light fixture. Ceiling lights often get replaced with heavy fixtures like that even if it is not you doing it right now.
Here is a picture of the type of box that you likely have there. The rivets and metal bracket are readily obvious.

Picture Source
Here is yet another almost similar phenolic electrical box with a different style metal bracket riveted to it:

Picture Source


Can I hone Silestone from a glossy finish to a matte finish?

Silestone is made of quartz (mohs scale of around 7 if I remeber correctly). Try wetsanding with > 1000 grit so that you don't get scratches in the surface.


How to connect LED tape strips in separate locations to one power source?

You can use either one power supply or many. The important thing is that you use a power supply that is listed for enclosing in a wall or attic. Something like in this picture:

Any light strip you buy that is designed for permanent installation should come with such a supply and will be listed by UL or similar.

I don't recall seeing LED tape strips that come with a proper wall box, rather I have seen them come with plug in power supplies or transformers that most municipalities will not allow to be buried in a wall. It doesn't mean they don't exist, of course. Regardless, check with your code office to see what supply is permitted in your area. Perhaps they will allow a simple transformer to be concealed. That would surprise me, though.


You need a 4-wire range connection.

Since this is a remodel, you must upgrade this circuit to a 4-wire connection.  That "NEMA 10-50" 3-wire connection is obsolete, illegal and dangerous.   If there is metal conduit, or a separate ground wire hidden back there, then you have the necessary grounds present, and extending is a possibility.  Otherwise, forget about it; you'll need a home run back to the panel as part of the remodel.  I recommend running 6/3 cable unless you are in conduit, then #8 will suffice.

Part of this will be converting the range to a 4-wire plug.  Ranges and dryers can be easily converted from one to the other, but you must follow the instructions (available on the web) to properly remove the neutral-ground internal jumper.  Leaving that on would be bad.

Splicing is tricky, though.

You can't bury the junction box. Obviously the temptation is to seal up the steel box and bury it behind trim or whatever.  Can't do it, not allowed. The junction box cover must be accessible without the use of any tools.  (other than the two screws holding on the box cover itself, obviously).

However, you can make the junction box be dual-purpose. For instance, the best way to conceal such a junction box is to use a large, deep 4-11/16" square metal box (which you need for the cubic inches), then stick a 2-gang "mud ring" on it, then stick plain 120V receptacles or switches there, fed by totally separate 120V / #12 wires. It looks and acts like an ordinary countertop recep, nothing special.  But if the receps are removed, there isthe oven splice lurking behind, still full accessible.

Remember in any splice, the wires must be long enough to a) come out 6" beyond the clamp, and b) come out 3" beyond the surface of the wall. That would require 8-9" in a large box like I describe.


How can I remove water-based emulsion paint from paving slabs?

The water based paint will come off eventually with rain and normal activity on the paving slabs, but it will take a while.

The only guaranteed way is to use water and a scrubbing brush or, if you don't want to get down on your hands and knees, a stiff bristled yard brush.


How do I fix a vinyl covering that is coming away from the outside deck support beam?

If you want to use an adhesive, one of the liquid nails products should work.  The comment about vinyl expanding and contracting is right, although it may not be a concern since it's under an overhang.  Vinyl siding gets really hot since it's on the side of your house exposed to the sun.


Fitting sheetrock(plasterboard) to a ceiling, to be taped and skimmed. Should the joints be tightly butted, or leave a gap, of what size?

Tight.  Sheetrock doesn't "move" like wood does. Fit it as tight as you can, but don't go overboard on the labor.   I've seen some pretty sloppy jobs of hanging rock that got muudded and taped and turned out OK. Problem is sometimes if the gaps are too large, the mud eventually shrinks  and they open up and you get some cracks.   Best practice is as tight and clean as possible when hanging rock.


Can you identify the brand of this window?

A Google search of 280 series windows led me to Diamond Window and Door. It is a long shot but might be a place to start.


How to repair small depression in a wall?

That looks like you compressed the Sheetrock a bit , these are really hard to hide. What I have done is use a backpack sprayer with water and a squirt of jet dry (the stuff for dishwashers) wet the area down , put down some plastic and use a putty knife to scrape the area. Note if your home is older than 1985 that material may have asbestos in it. (Most of the time I will take the entire ceiling off , patch the depression and reshoot the ceiling with an orange peal or large splatter texture.
If you just clear a small area and fill it there are some can textures that I have had ok luck with but I can see the difference after painting, some may not notice.
Wetting the texture with the jet dry helps it to become wet and it scrapes right off.
Then I roll up the plastic and put it in a bag then into the trash. (With asbestos This is legal in my location if going to the dump not a transfer station).
If trying a small area after filling the hole start spraying in the center and go slow as you hit the point where you did not scrape quickly fan out this leave a heavy texture in the center but blends with the outside. You may have to wait a few minutes but try to do it with at least 8 strokes , north, south, east, west , for the first 4 then in between for the next 4. This has worked but looked best when I pulled all the old stuff down and gave it a quick orange peal texture.


How do I join an existing outlet into PVC electrical boxes and conduit?

Get a cover plate with a knockout and a 90 degree connector to your NMT.  That should get you started.  If doing it for myself I'd use PVC conduit and an entrance ell, but that's just personal preference.


Does electrical wires on exterior need to be in conduit?

In the US -- the general rule is that outdoor rated cables (MC, SE, and sunlight-resistant UF are the only ones you'll see in residential work -- AC isn't allowed in damp/wet locations, nor is NM of course) can be run in the open provided they   cannot be subject to physical damage -- if your cable is running anywhere where people can run into it, mow it, whack it, or trip on it, you'll need to install your wire (THWN) or cable (there are no Code objections to pulling intact SE or UF through conduit, although it may annoy the next electrician who works on it) in RMC, IMC, schedule 80 PVC, or RTRC-XW to provide protection from said physical damage, as per NEC 300.5(D)(4):

  (4) Enclosure or Raceway Damage. Where the enclosure or raceway is subject
  to physical damage, the conductors shall be installed in rigid metal conduit,
  intermediate metal conduit, RTRC-XW, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, or equivalent.


Legal requirements regarding 100% asbestos duct work

If you're willing to trust internet sources, a landlord is not necessarily required to remove hazardous asbestos, but the asbestos may be cause to break your lease without penalty or possibly even live there rent free until he remediates the hazardous asbestos (the asbestos in your house may or may not be classified as 'hazardous' depending on many factors such as whether or not it's in the duct seams or just used outside the ductwork as insulation in an inaccessible space - if he disagrees with your determination about whether or not it's hazardous it may take a lawyer and a report from an expert (or experts) to come to an agreement).

Of course, if the asbestos is airborne (or likely to become so if disturbed), you probably don't want to live there for long  regardless of the landlord's responsibilities. If it were locked up in a painted over popcorn ceiling or in vinyl floor tiles that's one thing, but if you've got air blowing through friable asbestos in the duct seams, I wouldn't want to live in that house until it was professionally removed (and maybe not even then since the fibers will be in every nook and cranny of the house).

The landlord was probably required to disclose the existence of asbestos to you before you moved in -- and he may have already done so in some clause of the lease.

If conditions allowed you to be exposed to airborne asbestos that the landlord knew (or should have known) about, then he may have some additional liability for your exposure to it.

But, as @Grant said above, this question is what lawyers are for so you should consult with a lawyer for advice that applies to your situation. And of course, specific local laws may apply.


Can I connect eight LED strip lights to the same power source?

The answer really depends on the product have or want to use.
Most good LED RGB-W systems are low votage and subject to specific wiring codes.( Check those of your state and local codes.

5Amps per channel is typical and may require more sophisticated wiring techniques.

Additionally, W in RGB-W is not gerenally bright enough for proper illumination. I assume you have determined this given your product descriptions.
You may find that the wiring is best concealed in a cove.


If I was on a job and somebody was asking for that, they'd call it the little stile on the kick. I've never heard it given a real name.

I doubt you can buy one off the shelf. You can find a cabinetmaker or woodworker that'll make you one, though. Look for a smaller shop and bring cookies as well as money. If you have the old one, bring it with you.


How do I smoothly transition vinyl plank to tile?

You really have two general options for a "seamless" transition from tile to plank.

Basic "L" trim - pictured below.   You will need to install this about 1/8" from each and caulk in between.   It should be installed slightly LOWER than the height of the planks and tile - 1/16", 1/8" be OK.   Your two floors must be pretty much exactly the same height or the "L" trim method will cause foot scrapes.

Bullnose trim - my general suggestion for most as it is more forgiving for slight height misalignments.   Your planks will go into the bullnose and the tiles will be about 1/8-1/16" with a caulked gap.


Germany: Is it legal to connect a gas oven to a gas tank manually?

Update: the stove you refer to is an outdoor gas stove. You don't even need to talk to anyone, using thas stove indoors will violate all kinds of regulations and will pose a huge safety hazard to you.  There are also better ways of killing yourself than running an outdoor gas stove indoors.
Unfortunately Ooni doesn't give the power of the stove on their web site, but they say that 440 g of propane (1 lb) will last "up to an hour". Propane has a lower heating value of 46 MJ/kg. At 440 g/h that is 20 kW. I.e. you are far above the 11 kW limit for normal private use of gas burners in a flat.
BTW: you don't need high power to reach high temperature in the stove if the stove has decent insulation and/or a volume that is not much larger than the pizza. For indoor settings such insulation is not only required for gas safety reasons but also for fire and burn safety.
To give you an idea, a quick glance found me that a 20 kW gas indoor pizza stove is the size for making 9 30 cm pizzas simultaneously.  Or, thinking from the other side, you get electric indoor pizza stoves with   2.5 - 3.5 kW (suitable for 230 V 16 A i.e. standard electric installation) for a single pizza at a time.

If the kitchen is equipped with a plug-in gas outlet, you plug in your new stove and proceed as the manual says.

If there is no fixed gas installation available, the bottom line is that hardly anyone cares about the hassle (safety plus safety burocracy plus carrying gas bottles into your flat) and people go for electric (e.g. induction) cooking instead: the electric installatin typically has 3 phases with 16 A for the electric stove, so you can get 11 kW electric stove as easily as an 11 kW gas stove (gas installation above 11 kW has additional regulation).

Otherwise:

If you are not owning the house, you'll have to talk to your landlord. It is quite possible for the renting contract (or the landlord) to forbid gas cooking for general safety reasons. (If you own a flat in a house, you may have to talk to the other owners, but there I'm not sure)

Where the building has a fixed gas installation, a rental flat typically comes with a fixed gas stove already installed.

Building and fire safety regulations vary by Land (state, province).

You may need to obtain the permission by the chimney sweeper, and have them regularly measure emissions.
Make sure you talk to them beforehand since they may tell you that you need to put ventilation holes into all doors etc.
One important limit is 11 kW - below that things are somewhat easier, but you still need to take care of regulations like minimum distances and required room volume.
You can also ask the customer service of the local gas provider (Stadtwerke) about regulations. They'll know even if your house is not connected with gas.

For fixed gas installation (gas tank, fixed pipes, fixed connection to stove) call a gas fitter/plumber (in Germany, Gas- und Wasserinstallateur or old name
Klempner = plumber is one profession).

In general, there is also the possibility that you do the installation yourself and then have a plumber do the safety check only. (Similar for electric installation.)
Of course, it is quite possible that no local plumber will sign the safety certificate if they cannot sufficiently inspect the installation. So make sure you talk to them beforehand.

If we're speaking gas bottle and stove, you can connect bottle, reducing valve and stove yourself. Make sure you have the propane nozzle in.  (And if you don't know what I'm talking about, have a plumber show you)
You still need approval by landlord and also the regulations like approval by chimney sweeper, ventilation etc. still apply.
For the technical part of the rules, the Technische Regeln Flüssiggas are relevant.
Keep in mind:

no underground storage of gas bottles, no storage in sleeping rooms etc.*
at most 16 kg of propane or butane in the house (so one 5 kg reserve bottle plus the normal 11 kg bottle)*
you can not fill your gas bottle yourself at the gas station, instead you exchange it for a full one.

* without special installation (e.g. force ventilated gas cabinets)


In general, the installed tank is almost always the bare minimum size, and if replacing a larger one is often a better choice.

A simple test of the system is to run water from a place where you can observe or hear the pump (typically there is a drain connection there, which you can either run into a bucket or attach a hose to.) Starting with the pump not running (not "turned off", just on its automated control, but not running when you start) run water just until the pump starts; turn off the water and start timing. When the pump stops, check the time. If it's less than a minute, there is something that should be addressed. If it's more than a minute (and nothing else in the house is using water) it's probably fine.

If you run water into the tub or something, and there is the usual pressure gauge on the system, you should see the pressure fall to a certain point, like 30 PSI, then the pump kicks on and the pressure rises to something like 50 PSI and the pump cuts off, and the pressure falls again (drawing water from the tank) until it gets to 30 again and turns the pump on. Those pressures might be 20 & 40 or 40 & 60, covering the 3 most common settings.

If that cycle is very fast, it's a sign of a waterlogged tank or failed bladder. Bladder tanks have been the common default for more than 20 years, so it's very likely that you have a bladder tank unless someone with a major case of nostalgia for things that work poorly put the current tank in 20 years ago.

An additional diagnostic is, after the timing test; with the pump shut off and the system at peak pressure, and nothing else in the house using water: draw water into a bucket just until the pump turns on again. Measure the volume of that water. This is the "drawdown" of your tank, and there are tables which would tell you what it should be, when you have identified your tank and noted the pressures your system works between. If the amount of water you get is significantly less than those tables indicate (it will generally never be more) there is a problem with the tank.


What requirements should I look for in an air compressor to clear irrigation lines?

CFM - cubic feet per minute - is what rushes through the pipes and carries out droplets of water. PSI - pounds per square inch - is what turns ordinary sprinkler heads into high-flying air powered rockets. No kidding.

How do the big pros do the job??

In my part of the USA the contractors use towable air compressors to sprinkler blow-out. I own two of these and rent them out each fall. Mine are in the 175 CFM class -- they're the type you'd see a road crew using to power a jackhammer for instance. Although these compressors can produce over 100 PSI I prefer to turn it down to about 60 PSI. With a relatively high-flow source like this I can easily blow out a quarter acre residential sprinkler system in 20-30 minutes, including putting the air hoses away.

OK, I'm not gonna buy nor rent a towable. It's fine if the job takes me longer.

There's a tradeoff between compressor size and job speed. Before I had these compressors I used my electric compressor, an upright unit with a 60 gallon tank and 240 volt motor. I don't recall its CFM spec, but after the tank de-pressurized the compressor pump could move enough air continuously to get the job done at least halfway. I'd go through every sprinkler zone twice to make sure I'd evacuated the water thoroughly. The job took an hour or more.

My brother used to use his portable compressor to do the same. It was big as portables go, maybe 15 gallon tank at the most. Sprinkler blow-out usually took him a couple hours because he'd have to blow off each zone several times and it took several minutes for the air compressor to recover after each shot of air. The biggest difference between his and mine is not actually the size of the pump, though -- it's the size of the air tank. Because my tank stored more air it could push more water further with each cycle. The towables get the job done so fast with no tank at all: their pumps move so much air instantly that a tank isn't needed.

Can I set the air pressure at max?

People are often set the regulator at a higher pressure. This can help an undersized compressor get the job done by packing more air into the sprinkler main line, acting as if the compressor itself had a larger tank. This does increase the risk of damage to the system however. Valves open with more force, zone piping takes more shock when the valve pops open... and yes, sometimes sprinkler heads really do get launched into the air. Most of the time there's no damage, though, so many people accept that risk.

Finally, a recommendation!

If the property you're going to winterize is not very big, say under a quarter acre, then there's less volume of pipe to be evacuated. If you don't mind spending half a Saturday doing the job, that's good too. I'd suggest you'll want something with at least an 8-10 gallon tank since that stored air is what gets the job done. 15-30 gallons tank volume would be much nicer. The CFM of the pump just controls how long you'll have to wait before there's enough air to blow it off again.

One thing you can do to expand tank capacity is to get a portable air tank (or a broken compressor). This may be more economical than buying a compressor with a larger tank, especially since it sounds like you may not use it heavily.


you dont need to seam it anywhere.  just pour it in one shot, and make sure you have steel reinforcing mesh and the glass fibre additive in your concrete.  its only 12 s 5 total size, so its an easy lift for 6 men.  this way you dont need to worry about fit up or future cracking.

this is one of the reasons concrete countertops are used.  they are no where near as durable as granite or silestone, but they don't need seams.


Why did my switch spark when I installed it in a metal junction box?

Don't downgrade to a plastic box.  Metal boxes are better and what's more, they are often essential in distributing grounding to other boxes.  Further in some cities (e.g. Chicago) they are required by Code.

The purpose of a box is to provide grounding and fire protection, and metal boxes do that better than plastic ones in all respects.  Plastic boxes exist to be cheap, so builders can save $20 per house.

Metal boxes also allow there to be fewer (or no!) ground wires in the box.  For instance this smart switch doesn't need a ground wire since it can ground via the yoke and screws.

This is a quality product with an ETL listing (equivalent to UL listed). Bad designs just won't clear that listing process, so I don't buy "all 4 screws bottomed out on the box".  Far more likely:

A wayward bare ground wire in the box touched one of the screws (feels unlikely)
Wires were over-stripped, leaving bare length sticking out.  This contacted a ground wire.

The screw issue could be annulled with a couple layers of electrical tape across them.  That's how you solve that problem (if it even is a problem).


Who can I hire to investigate a possible airflow blockage in my attic?

In order of preference I'd probably call these folks:

A trusted handyperson (likely least expensive)
An insulation contractor (likely most knowledgeable, but more expensive)
A building or remodeling contractor (certainly capable, but probably most expensive)

You don't really need any particular credentials. You just need someone with a brain in their head and insurance.


Was FMC >6ft Ever an Acceptable Grounding Path?

Whether or not you are "grandfathered" it is really foolish to leave a garage door opener on an ungrounded circuit or weakly grounded circuit. (which is what FMC is - it's a weak ground)
People have been killed by something going wrong with their ungrounded garage door opener, they get a ladder out to climb up and take a look at it, touch the unit or wires in it, get a shock and fall off the ladder.  It's not the shock it's the fall that gets 'em.


I would not put my faith in a regular toggle bolt. The small bend pin that acts as a hinge for the wing to pivot on and are critical for its integrity seem weak at best. I would rely on it for shear strength rather than tension.

Here is what I would use instead...


The shadow of the tree.
Your photo captures the shadow of the big tree next to your driveway. It is kind of artistic in that way.  You are interested in the crack but that crack is because of the tree and the presence of the tree is in the photo.  There is a big root right under the crack, lifting it up.
If you don't like the crack that root will need to go and that will take some doing.
I would like to see the tree.  There are beautiful trees in NY and I bet it is a wonder even though it has made a crack.   If you would add a picture of the tree I would appreciate it.


How can I seal the grout on kitchen wall tiles to give lasting stain and mold protection?

You want to apply a penetrating grout sealer. This one says that it last up to 5 years depending on conditions.

The key for the sealer to last as long as possible on a backsplash is to avoid cleaning it with "harsh cleaners" like bleach and antibacterial sprays.  You want to use something that is not going to remove the grout sealer when cleaning the backsplash.  They sell specific cleaners that are easy on the grout at the tile shops, but I have read that just using diluted white vinegar works.


We bought a house on a golf course in Colorado. After we moved in we found out we had plenty of flies, EVERY single day. The house is big but new (2003). WE asked pest control, they couldn't figure it out. Everyone around here was saying it's a problem with big homes!!
In the meantime, my husband wanted to organize the garage so he hired a handyman to hang ladders and stuff on the wall of the garage. The handyman started drilling holes in the wall under a window but he couldn't find the studs. He pulled the wall and found that under that window (there is a porch above that window) all the wood was rotten but not wet. It turned out that there had been a leak on that porch and previous owners had replaced the porch, however, there were no signs of the water getting inside the walls, hence the rotten wood! So, we had the contractors replace the entire wall. Since then we have had no flies.
 Flies were getting in through that rotten wall. If my husband hadn't decided to rearrange the garage, we would have never gotten rid of those flies.
I am not sure if this will help anyone but it sure is a strange way of finding out how flies get into a house.


Neutral (grounded conductor) for bathroom switch (NEC 404.2(C))?

Your book is faulty -- 404.2(C) may not have required neutrals at bathroom light switches at one point in time, but it certainly does in the current (2014) NEC!

  C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for
  the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches
  control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch
  circuit for other than the following:

  (4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom


Using the oven wall outlet to plug in a dryer?

Maybe, but probably not.
Electrical
Most electric dryers are designed to be connected to a 30 ampere branch circuit, using a NEMA 14-30 plug. While most electric ranges are designed to work with a 50 ampere branch circuit, using a NEMA 14-50 plug.
Since the two devices likely use different plug configurations, it's not going to be as simple as just plugging the dryer in.  You could probably make up an adapter (or maybe find one for sale), but you'd have to make sure it was made well and used the proper materials.
Environmental
The next problem you might encounter, is exhausting the dryer. It sounds simple, just stick the hose in the window and let it go. Unfortunately, the exhaust contains quite a bit of moisture and lint.  So you'll have to be careful where you exhaust to, or you'll end up with some really angry neighbors. You'll also have to be concerned with preventing the exhaust from being sucked right back into your home. Since I'm sure you don't want all that moisture and lint in your home either.


The following is with the presumption that you have cleared out the cabinet and carefully inspected the entire area with a flashlight and you still are not sure of the exact source of the leak.

  "is this something that I can easily fix by taking apart the garbage
  disposal?"

Garbage disposers are not considered "user serviceable". What I mean is that if you "take it apart" you will probably not be able to repair it (assuming it needs repair).

  "would plumbers putty or something over the object solve the problem?"

NO, no putty or compound will ever work if you try to apply it to the areas circled in your picture.

You need to find the root cause of the water you are seeing. ISE disposers utilize an upper basket assembly that is fixed/attached to the sink as a separate piece from the main unit (main unit being the motor, housing and shredder plate compartment). The two pieces are fastened together with a locking ring. Upper piece pictured below:

Complete assembly:

Your leak could be a defect with the disposer itself. It could also be a leaky drain tube connection or a leak above at the basket assembly, and the water is running down around or through the plastic and foam sound insulating motor housing. You need to figure out which it is.

You need to disconnect the waste pipes and electrical supply (kill the power first), remove the motor/housing/shred chamber assembly and carefully inspect it.

I would reconnect the waste elbow but have it facing upwards, then fill the housing with water (while it is sitting on the floor, separated from the sink) to see if the unit is leaking. If it is, replace it. If it is not:

Remove the basket assembly from the sink by removing the steel lock-ring and backing out the the 3 mounting screws, then reassemble the whole thing using fresh plumber's putty and a new gasket, then make sure to use new slip-joint washers when reattaching the waste pipes.

If none of this sounds like it makes sense you really should call a reputable licensed plumber.