Generally if a board starts acting "squirrely" like that, it's bad and they are not repairable. But in many cases it's not that hard to replace the entire board. Get the model number of your unit and do an internet search for a "main board" for it. If your unit is popular, you may find it for sale and in fact you may find a YouTube video showing you how to replace it. I have done that recently for two different electronic based appliances, both repairs were simple and inexpensive (compared to replacing the entire appliance).


Since all signs seemed to point to a bad motor, I took a chance and replaced it.  The new motor has been working fine for several days now.  Not exactly sure why it was only failing at night, but I still think it is related to the slightly higher voltage fluctuations I get at night.  I did power the old motor directly for high and low voltage inputs (removing the control board from the equation) and experienced the same problem when the voltage moved higher and then it was fine when the voltage came back down.  Not sure why.  Could a bad thermistor cause this?  Not sure.  Unfortunately the circuit board in the control module of the motor is potted and I don't see how I could fix it.  Too bad.  The motor was only 5 years old and it would be great to repair if possible.  Anyway, I hope this helps anyone else who may experience similar problems.  Thanks all.


Do I need this special strike plate on my laundry room to garage entry? It's creating problems with a new lock

That little plunger is called a dead latch. It requires precise and correct alignment between the door latch and the strike plate with no excuses.
The purpose of a dead latch is that if it is held in, the latch can't move.  This defeats "using a credit card" to force against the latch's ramped piece to make it retract.
The strike plate, thus, must be correct for the dead latch.  It must allow the latch to drop into the hole, but the dead latch not to.  The best option is to use the strike plate supplied with the lock set, whose hole should be the right size so only the latch fits.
The dead latch should not be taking any damage because it should not be falling into the hole.  It sounds like the dead latch is falling into the hole, and then, is bearing the full force applied against the door, including by the wind, which can be considerable.
Too big a gap between door and strike plate
Part of your problem may be the strike plate being too far from the door.  (I can look right at the weatherproofing and tell you that!)  In that case, the beveled latch is only going partway into the hole, and that is leaving room for the deadlatch to fit also.
The latch is beveled.  If the strike plate is close like it's supposed to be, the hole is only big enough for the width of the latch, and the deadlatch can't fall in.  However, if the strike plate is too far away, it aligns with a part of the latch that is not as wide (since it's beveled).  That leaves room for the deadlatch to fall in.
The gap between door and strike should be very close - you should barely be able to fit a credit card in there.  I bet you can fit about 6 credit cards in there!
I also notice the latch is "inset" from the edge of the door. That shouldn't be.  You need to shim that back out so the latch is flush or even very slightly proud of the door edge.  Here, every mil matters.

^^ How it's supposed to work.

^^ Yours. Note too-big gap and too-inset latch allowing deadlatch to fall in.
That type of weatherproofing makes "closed" ambiguous
If a door is not weatherproofed, there is a well-defined point where the door is positively closed all the way.  With this type of weatherproofing, after the door first contacts part of the weatherproofing,  you can lean on the door harder and harder, and the door will keep closing, moving more than 1/4" additional if you lean on it hard enough.   This makes correct positioning of strike plate extremely difficult, but also, all the more important.  It's a mistake to set the strike so the door is too loose; first it will bear a lot of dynamic force from being loaded in both directions by the wind, and second, people who pull the door shut hard will drag the latch past the strike plate, making for very sloppy latch action... and (again) allowing the dead latch to fall into the hole if the strike plate is too far away.
You say the oval screw spaces in the reinforcement are in the wrong place.  I doubt that. I suspect the weatherstripping is making you want to put the strike in the wrong place.  Since you're already having trouble with the dead latch dropping in, clearly you're already putting the strike plate too far out, and it appears you are near the outer limit of that oval.  I suspect correct placement will be closer to the inner limit, but this will make the door very stiff to close, and you don't like that.
Well, you're going to need to sort that out. Decide whether you want to keep this weatherstripping and place the strike so you must pull hard to close, go with other types of weatherstripping that don't interfere with a positive "closed" position on the door, or get rid of weatherstripping.
The wood may be too beat up to take screws
It's also possible that the wood  "meat" the strike plate screws go into has perished from over-use, and/or the existing holes simply making it impossible to get a screw to go in the correct position (since the screw seeks the existing hole).  That thrashed wood fiber needs to be drilled out and replaced with some sort of filler.  I would drill it and epoxy in a softwood dowel. It needs to be about the hardness of the underlying wood, not much harder or softer (or drills will "seek" the softer material).
You could use an epoxy with filler instead of a dowel; a blend of colloidal silica and fairing filler (e.g. West System 406 and 410) would be a nice compromise between softwood hardness and strength.
I've also heard of people driving match sticks into the screw holes (NOT with the flammable heads!)
So... it sounds like the door framing has been a real "slop job" and these issues were simply ignored by past installers.
You will need to move through each issue and correct it.

Shim out the latch in the door so it's flush, or a tick proud.
Shim the door, or jamb, or strike base, so the door and strike are close enough to work as intended.
Find the strike position so with the latch extended, but the dead latch retracted (tape it down), the door compresses your weatherstripping (if any) firmly for a good seal, and without allowing slack of movement.
Remedy any issues with chewed up wood not letting you place screws correctly.


Can you shorten class B water heater vent pipe?

The short answer is no. B-vent cannot be cut.

But there is hope. You don't have a joint in the straight run but you do have two 90s

This shows a B-C adapter with a C vent 90

C vent isn't actually a thing, it's just what people called regular venting.

Everything below the B-C adapter is fair game you could potentially remove the B vent 90s attach the B-C adapter to your straight run and then use C vent the rest of the way. C vent 90s are smaller and easier to work with. You can even trim up to the rivet to buy some space.

Without a picture it's hard to say what will work but there are 12" flexible sections of B vent available.

12" B vent flex

www.amazon.com

Unfortunately they are proprietary. You would have to match it. But 1 12" flex could buy enough space if you replaced the two 90s with it. (again pictures would help.)

The last tactic in the arsenal is pushing it up through the thimble. This will require going on the roof.

B-vent chimneyHart and cooley

Before you push it up (if necessary) you will need to make sure there are no screws going through the flashing into the B vent (you don't want to disturb your flashing) they might be hiding under the storm collar. The firestop (if equipped) may also have screws in it. That would pose a problem. They would also need to be removed. Once it's pushed up reattach the storm collar back just above the flashing.

Hopefully method number one works. You may need to do a combination of all three.


What happens when two separate circuits are connected to a 120/240v breaker?

A two pole breaker can be used to create a multi-wire branch circuit. It should have a 3 wire cable with a bare ground. The two hot legs would have 240 volts between them and each will have 120 volts to the neutral.

If the neutral has a bad connection toward the origin of the circuit it is possible to get strange voltages as the loads are now in series with each other between the two hot legs. So you are splitting 240 volts between the loads if the neutral is disconnected. For instance, this could cause the microwave or other loads to have 180 volts while the other loads have 60 volts. This could cause damage to your appliances.

Have the voltage on the wiring checked and have it checked for bad connections before using it any more.

Good luck!


Using two screws on a four screw ceiling mount

Welcome to stack exchange.

The short answer is no.

Additional info:
Your product should be installed per the guidelines the manufacturer intended. If they do not present a two screw mounting option you should not invent one. The engineering behind the scenes is typically done to ensure safety and not to mention, the brakets are intended to use 4 screws, using only two could deform the bracket and compromise the weight distribution from 4 points to 2 points, essentially doubling the force on two points.

Now... if the brakets are over engineered (which is pretty rare these days), and you've calculated the weight bearing tensile strength of your beam material and it is greater than the (max combined weight of the # of people on the hammock + the hammock weight) x 1.7 (to be safe),then no. You might be able to take your bracket to a big box store and find alternative brackets, but I would still easily double the max weight (or nearly double it), when shopping for the brackets they have to ensure it will still hold up and serve its purpose.


Do these look like good PVC exhaust and intake termination ends for a new tankless gas heater?

I look at that picture ans see loose electrical cables, and damaged lagging on the water pipe,
Is see a messy glue job on the end of the intake, (but some paint will hide that)
I finally see that the penetration through the sheet-metal siding has not been sealed. same as the water pipe...
It doesn't look like a big problem.


"Walk/Don't Walk" street sign wired into bathroom light

A 2 ways switch should totally do it:

wire the common of the switch with the line cable
wire one of the switch ways to the bathroom light and the don't walk light
wire the other switch way to the walk light
wire all lights second wire to the neutral cable
if your walk/don't walk sign has a metal frame, wire it to the protective earth cable

Just ensure that:

the bathroom light and don't walk light are connected in parallel, not in series
your 2 ways switch is graded for the sum of your two lights (look at the number of watts on the bulbs)

You may want to add a second switch somewhere so the walk sign won't stay on 24/7 while the gaming room is empty (perhaps wiring everything to the main light switch off the gaming room?)

EDIT: I should add that, since it implies live electric current, YOU SHOULD HAVE A FULLY QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL CHECKING YOUR DESIGN BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, and CHECKING WHAT YOU'VE DONE BEFORE ANY CONNECTION TO YOUR POWER GRID! (depending where you live, this may be mandatory by law; if it's not, you should still do it)

Or in other words, you do as you want, but I'm not responsible if anything goes wrong after you followed instruction from "some guy on the internet".


Do refrigerators struggle with too warm a temperature setting?

Congratulations, you've just stumbled upon the secret self-destruct feature that all manufacturers design into their appliances... NOT! (^-^)

There is no setting of a refrigerator's controls that will "overload" a refrigerator (barring extremely abnormal operating conditions).  It would certainly not flicker like that.
Believe it or not, manufacturers don't like to have customer complaints and returns, it's bad for business.   If there was such a defect, lawyers would be all over it, too.

~~~
With one exception, the warmer the fridge/freezer is set, the less it works and it will not overload.
Not counting the energy lost to opening the door, or to the initial cooling of warm things, the energy a refrigerator requires is roughly:

(RoomTemp - FridgeTemp) * The compartment's surface area
--------------------------------------------------------
    The average R-value of the fridge's insulation

The R-value and the surface area are fixed by the unit's design (with one exception).  So it should be obvious that raising the FridgeTemp lowers the required energy.

For example, suppose your refrigerator compartment is 26 by 27 by 38 (inches) and the average R-value is R-19 (US, not SI).  Assume a constant, summer-time room-temp of 76°F.

Then, a fridge set to 34°F would use roughly:

(76°F - 34°F) × (2×26×27 + 2×26×38 + 2×27×38)(inches²)(ft²/144 inches²)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
    19 (ft²×°F×hour/Btu)

= about 83 BTU/hour or about 24 watts.

Set the fridge to 40°F and it drops down to 71 Btu/hour (21 watts).

See R-value (insulation) for more information.

The exceptions:

If a freezer is a frost-free model, it uses extra energy to stay frost free.  On many models this just runs off a timer, so the temperature-setting has little effect on how much energy is used.  On smarter models, the energy use increases with the room's humidity and how often the door is opened plus how full the box is (fuller is better).
If a freezer is not a frost-free model, and ice builds up.  This decreases the effective surface area and increases the effective R-value.  So, the unit uses less energy, but items in the box usually remain too warm, too long -- leading to greatly increased spoilage, poor ice making, etc.


Bathroom exhaust fan turn on with light or independent switch

Install a humidity sensor fan control, like this one from Leviton. It will automatically turn on the fan, when it senses excess humidity in the room.

humidity sensor fan control http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/43/43ea781d-e83f-41d3-98c2-90fec341f3c6_300.jpg

You should be able to find them from other manufacturers as well, this was simply the first example I found when searching.


As with Ed, it also sounds to me like you may have bearings that are going dry in the blower motor.  When these bearings dry out they can also make a ticking noise without any outside help. Once you rule everything else out, I would replace the motor.


White wire when changing from 4 prong to 3 on dryer

Getting power to the machine is the easy part.   The neutral goes to the silver screw in the center, and the two hots go to the brass screws on either side.  Now the machine is powered.

Safety ground is the hard part.  You really want that.

If you have a 4-wire cable with NEMA 14-30, you're all set.

If you have a 3-wire cable with NEMA 10-30, you have several options, and the rest of this post is about that.

For dryers and stoves specifically, Code allows you to "cheat": bond ground to the neutral wire.  The rationale is there are a lot of old NEMA 10-30's out there, and trouble is unlikely since dryers and stoves are rarely moved and plugs are rarely unplugged. The hazard is, if the neutral fails, it will energize the chassis of the dryer at 120V and will electrocute users, and has.  Sometimes fatally.
Install a 4-wire cable to a 14-30.  For a dryer circuit, Romex 10/3 is the right stuff, it sells for less than $1/foot.  Follow the old wire and replace if feasible. If you're not comfortable going inside the service panel, leave about 4 feet of excess length and call an electrician to make the connections.   If you prefer, you could run metallic or non-metallic conduit and use single-wire THWN wire (preferably stranded for easy pulling).  Ground is optional in metallic conduit, the conduit is a legit ground path.
Replace the NEMA 10-30 outlet with a 14-30 by running a separate ground wire.  It must be at least 10 AWG - single wire will do, but the wire must be bare, green or greeen/yellow, and re-marking another color is not allowed.  Route however you can, to either the service panel inside on a ground lug, or to a ground screw inside a box in all-metal conduit that is continuous back to the service panel. This is covered under NEC 250.130(c). Don't connect anywhere else, e.g. not to 120V outlets, those have 12 or 14 gauge ground wires - too thin. You might be able to bond to a water heater's ground, but ask a code expert before you do that.
You cannot buy or hack a 240V-only dryer (which takes NEMA 6-30) and replace your plug and re-designate the white wire to be ground instead. Electrical code does not allow that.  You can remove the insulation, but you must remove all of it - hard to do in jacketed Romex.

If you install any wire or grounds, get a book on wiring installation and learn how to do it properly and legally, so the wire is not damaged and any electrician who touches it won't want to tear it out and redo.


Difference between angle grinder and circular saw

Different

power
gearing
speeds
collets
tool diameters
direction of forces
means of use
climb vs conventional
accessories
ability to sand or wirebrush

I think even if you managed to fit a sawblade on a grinder, you would have a completely uncontrollable tool that would be impossible to successfully engage to any work except for cars full of lost college students who make very poor decisions and scream a lot. While that may sound like fun, in the end Final Girl will kill you.


Where can I get NM cable clamps for a metal box?

Halex 3/8 in. 2-Piece Clamp Connectors

  Product Description: Use the Halex 3/8 in. 2-Piece Clamp Connectors (5-Pack) to connect #14 - #10 non-metallic sheathed cable to steel

  outlet boxes or other metal enclosures. They are compatible with
  standard 1/2 in. knockouts.

  Secure #14 - #10 non-metallic sheathed cable to steel outlet boxes or other metal enclosures
  Zinc-plated steel resists corrosion
  Fits standard 1/2 in. knockouts
  For indoor use only
  Designed for easy installation
  MFG Brand Name : Halex
  MFG Model # : 26510
  MFG Part # : 26510

Or as @Aaron suggested

Halex 3/8 in. Twin Screw Non-Metallic Cable Clamp Connectors

  Product Description:

  Twin Screw Non-Metallic Cable Clamp Connectors to join non-metallic
  sheathed cable and flexible cord to steel outlet boxes or other metal
  enclosures. A reversible locknut cuts through protective coatings on
  boxes and enclosures to preserve grounding.

  Connect non-metallic sheathed cable and flexible cord to steel outlet boxes or other metal enclosures
  Body and locknut are die-cast of high-strength zinc alloy
  Zinc-plated steel clamp and screws
  Reversible locknut cuts through protective coatings on boxes and enclosures to assure ground continuity
  Fits 1/2" knockout
  For indoor use only
  Screws compatible with Phillips, slotted and square screwdrivers
  Resists corrosion
  UL and CSA safety listings
  MFG Brand Name : Halex
  MFG Model # : 20511
  MFG Part # : 20511


How to replace a receptacle with four hot and four neutral wires?

Assuming that they aren't a split circuit, just bundle them all by color and add a pigtail to each bundle for the outlet. You'll need red wire nuts to handle that many wires, assuming #14. Some brands will accept five #12. Make sure you do a clean job of combining and twisting the bundle to ensure good contact.


Is it possible to remove colored paint from cedar shingles and then stain them?

I think this will be very, very difficult - I won't say impossible, because anything can be done with enough time & effort.  But take a close look at the surface - unless you're willing to get in and scrape with dental tools, it will be hard to get all the paint out of all the cracks and crevices.


GFCIs do not work that way.  GFCIs are not a kind of receptacle.  They are a system of protection that takes hot and neutral in ; and provides conditioned hot and neutral out.   They also make these systems in a receptacle form-factor, and it also provides a couple of convenience sockets right on them.  It looks an awful lot like a receptacle.  This has misconfused people into thinking GFCIs are merely some sort of rather expensive receptacle.  No.  Receptacles are still $3.

GFCI protection modules do not like to be downstream of switches. You need to do what you did before; have the GFCI protection module upstream of the switch, so the switch is switching conditioned hot and passing conditioned neutral thru to the outdoor outlet.

You can do this either with another GFCI breaker (price, I know) or a GFCI module such as a deadface upstream of the switch.   I really don't care if you buy a deadface which also has a couple convenience sockets on its front, also called a liveface.


How best to cut vinyl drafting board cover?

I've used that material before and cut it with a sharp razor blade and a clamped straightedge.  I didn't use scissors because like you said, there's really no way to get a good clean cut.

I agree that something like a router will generate too much heat, and could just not cut it at all because of it's rubbery flexibility.


Using a full motion single stud wall mount for the 49” Sony 900f?

Yes, a single stud CAN support your 30 lbs. T.V., if it’s installed PERFECTLY.

The mount is designed to 1) hold the tv up, and 2) keep the bracket (mount) from rotating off the wall.

1) The weight of the tv is not significant. A standard bolted connector will easily support 30 lbs.

2) The stress from a tv rotating off the wall is complicated. The bolt at the top of the connection is in withdrawal. That is to say, the bolt wants to “slip” out of the wood. To resist that force, the grooves between the bolt and the fiber in the wood is the only thing resisting that withdrawal force.

If the bolt is installed off-center of the stud, it may not develop full resistance. Also, if the bolt is installed too loose, it could loosen over time due to your “often” movement (vibration between the connection and the stud) of the tv.

Generally, structural design is redundant. That is to say, there’s always a backup. When you fasten to just one stud, it had better be PERFECT.


I fixed this issue by calling our neighbor, who realized that the trolley was too loose and the left lip was a bit curved. We flattened the lip (with a hammer) and then squeezed it along the other axis (v-shaped cut) using a vice. We then slipped the trolley back on and it worked without any issues.
Note: When squeezing the trolley to get a tighter v-shape, the metal is rather springy. You need to tighten the vice quite a bit to get it to deform the right amount.


Garage door opener remotes suddenly open incorrect door

Has some one changed the codes? Match the remote to the operator setting, or reset both.


Sounds like a bad connection to me.

And this is dangerous.  This could set your house on fire.

It happens all the time with backstab connections that a poor connection creates a virtual "fuse" that "burns out" above a certain current (often well within the rated ampacity of the circuit).  This results in a dead branch.   It would be less common, but certainly not impossible, for such an "accidental fuse" to be self-healing; making it an "accidental circuit breaker".

The problem is, such things cannot be counted on to be stable. This is likely to devolve into a more serious arcing fault, which can create hundreds of watts of heat in a near-pinpoint area of the receptacle.  This can melt the receptacle, and even set the box or surroundings on fire.  It's a big cause of house fires, and the reason AFCI breakers are Code for most circuits today. AFCI breakers listen for the electrical sound of arcing.  (if you've ever jiggled a headphone or speaker wire and heard crinkle-crunch, that's the sound, and it manifests both electrically and aurally.)

Don't overload the circuit

A gaming PC.  Those have "850 watt" power supplies - but that's on the DC side. You still have to count efficiency and power-factor, so if you look at the AC-side nameplate, that typically says 10 amps.  But all the cool kids today are using 1300W supplies that AC-nameplate at 15 amps.

So you're putting that, and ~1A worth of UPS (figuring battery recharge current), and 12.5A worth of heater... on a 15A (typical for bedrooms) or 20A circuit.

All but the UPS need a 125% derate, so over 30A provisioned, all on a 15/20A circuit.

This is treating wall outlets like a cornucopia, and that doesn't work.  I expect what's been happening is this "accidental circuit breaker" has been preventing you from overloading the circuit, and so your actual circuit breaker has not tripped. But you must fix the bad connecton, and when you do, the breaker will see full draw, and likely, you'll get trips.

Best tocall an electrician and have them fit a dedicated circuit (or two or three; the hard part is the fishing; tossing in an extra cable or two is no trouble) to support your hardware. Bedrooms are simply not wired for big PCs and heaters.  And if you want heaters, rather than buying a rinky-dink $20 heater-fan every year, heck, in 2-1/2 years you've paid for a proper 2000W baseboard heater ($50) that'll last 20 years!  So have the electrician install that on a 240V circuit.


Installing an Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA Type-2 surge protector

You'll need to use the 50A breaker, and you can cap off the spare hots in the panel
The bad news (not that bad) is that in order to meet the listing and installation requirements of the CHSPT2ULTRA, you're limited to a maximum of a 50A breaker for it.  (You can install it on lower-rated breakers, but they might trip during severe surge events, taking the surge suppressor out of the picture.)
As to the spare wires, simply capping the unused hots off with wirenuts and tucking them into an out-of-the-way corner of the panel is the best approach.  That way, they are terminated in a place that someone who wants to use them later can actually find them, as opposed to having to go on a scavenger hunt for the loose end, and you don't need to stuff an extra junction box in by the panel for the termination either.


Is this water heater drain configuration safe?

The configuration you pictured is not really a good idea. Waste water from the washer is going to flood the heater drain pipe, leaving nasty residues that could conceivably siphon back into the heater if connected to the heater drain valve. Not likely, but possible any time two drains are connected at different levels other than directly into the vented out flow pipe. The other problem will be that if the drain is a open pan drain only, washer waste water will back up into the pan. Washers tend to eject water quickly and can partially fill the pipe above the trap.

I would rather see you pump it up to the inlet of the washer drain.


How to prevent rain grate on the garden from shifting or collecting debris?

Connecting the downspout directly to an underground pipe will prevent debris from entering the system. It will probably be easier and cheaper to construct as well.


How to seal around metal gas pipe penetration through poured concrete above ground?

I would use "duct seal". It's a putty-like material that's a bit sticky. You'll find it in the electrical department. It's much more robust than foam.
Caulk would be difficult to work with on a gap that big and would be more difficult to remove if you had to do any modification later. You could probably get good results with silicone, though. I'd go with clear or light gray. Don't use latex as it shrinks badly.


Garage foundation and leakage in the floor

Sealing it really isn't solving your problem as your house isn't a boat. Below is what I would suggest to start. This can be done yourself but I'd suggest having an engineer look at the foundation to at least give you an idea of it's condition.
1 - Make sure you're not contributing to the water problem.

All down spouts should be draining at least 6 feet (ideally more)
from the structure to a spot that is either flat or continues to
slope away from the structure. IMPORTANT NOTE - Don't use
perforated pipe for atleast the first 6 feet(ideally more). This is
one of the most common mistakes that even builders make today.
Check that black pipe you have on the down spot and make sure there
aren't any small holes in it.
If you have sprinklers, shut them off at the source for a week to see
if that reduces the water. If it does, you may be overwatering or
have a cracked line.
If this is a recent problem, check to see if your water bill has
unexpectedly gone up. If so, you may have a cracked main line coming
into the house.
If you have neighbors whose yards are higher than yours, water may be
draining off of their property to yours. Depending on how close they
are, they could have downspouts that are properly sloped away from
their home, but are feeding stright into yours.

2 - You need to get the water draining away from the foundation. This needs to be done no matter what issues may be causing this. This can be done in a variety of ways. The proper slope away from the foundation depends on where you live. But anything will help to some degree. If you look online, you'll find a lot of information including things you can do yourself for little money, but will take some work on your part.
Update - @Anna, after looking at a couple of your other posts, and assuming this is the same house, I wanted to add a couple of notes.

In your crawlspace, it appears there is a concrete foundation, however you had stated that the foundation from the outside was brick. By foundation, I mean what is supporting the house underground. For a house that age, it would be somewhat odd to have a small brick foundation like the bricks you see on the outside. More common would be cinder block (gray in color, about 16 inches wide by 8 inches tall) or the concrete as you see in the crawlspace.  It is possible you have both if the foundation had deteriorated (possibly due to this water issue) and so they put a "sister" foundation in next to the original foundation which is why you'd see brick on one side, and concrete on the other. Either way, the ground outside should be a good 6-12 inches below the top of the foundation. If it snows in your area, it should probably be 12 inches. Call your city permit office and ask if they know.

Both the recent cracking in the outer brick and the more recent popped nails mentioned in your other posts could indicate that the water problem you're seeing is getting underneath the foundation, compacting the soil, and causing it to sink ever so slightly. All is not lost, you just need to deal with the water issue, and call a structural engineer in your area to come and take a look at things. If money is an issue, focus on at least getting the water directed away from the foundation. This can be accomplished by digging a small trench with a slope away from the house. All you need is a spade shovel and time. Put the dirt on either side of the little trench to help create a ridge. You might be able to get away with digging a trench only a shove wide (10 inches) and the same amount deep. It's the Basin concept seen in the upper left of the illustration below. If you start where you already have water, you'll know you're deep enough if the water that is pooled starts going down your trench.

Here's an infographic but there's information all over the internet.


How do you remove the tip of broken screw extractor bit?

The fact it broke off means the screw is probably very stuck. I would first use a penetrating oil (though WD-40 might also work), and let it sit for awhile, before trying anything further.

Hindsight is 20/20 of course, but it would have been good to do this first. If you see any corrosion or rust, or suspect it's needed and have time, this never hurts to do.

You may be able to use a small drill bit to extract the broken extraction bit, and then try again -- but be careful as you may damage the screw beyond my next tip..

If you can't get the tip out (or don't want to risk trying), I would probably use a dremel cutting wheel, and basically turn the screw into a slotted screw. This can be difficult -- not deep enough, and you'll just strip the screw worse trying to get it out, and too deep and you'll weaken the head so much it'll probably snap off when you try to turn it.

The next thing beyond this is to use a "reverse drill bit" or "left-handed bit". You can drill right into the middle of the screw itself (with your drill in reverse), and the bit should actually come out before you've gotten all the way into it. Use a bit that is smaller than the thread size, otherwise you'll strip the threads so you won't be able to put another screw back in. Again, judgment is necessary here, too small and it won't get enough grip, too big and you'll strip the threads -- though maybe by this point you don't care that much :)


Solar powered routers and security cameras

There are a few issues you will have to overcome here, and most are solved much more easily by running cable.

Solar power has limitations. For example, in Scotland I would need a pretty big solar panel to power the camera, wireless router, and charge a battery (for night time) and for many days of the year I wouldn't be able to get any charge (sunshine at 57 degrees north is minimal in winter!) but if you live in California or Arizona etc you may have much better luck with this.
Wifi extenders are cheap and convenient these days, and again, you can power them from solar panels, with the same caveat as before.
Directional antennas are a much better idea than a wifi extender, however. They will easily increase your wifi range, and have the added benefit of suffering less interference from any signal off the main lobe, and potentially increase security, as an attacker will need to be much closer if they aren't on that lobe direction.

I used to build a lot of setups with directional antennas for anything from a couple of hundred feet to a mile or so. Even at 100mW transmit strength, directional Huber-Suhner patch antennas gave me sufficient signal strength.

I'd still suggest a cable for the job you describe, though, possibly just run PoE (Power over Ethernet) so only one cable set needed.


There is no minimum mounting height for electrical panels.

There's also no minimum space between panels.  However you do have to provide enough space that the covers don't interfere with each other.


Needing Help with new thermostat install (C Wire)

It's a little unclear exactly what you're asking, but it sounds like you're on the right track.  If the orange wire is unused (unconnected at both ends), you can use it as a C wire.  Connect the one end to the thermostat's C terminal. Then connect the other end to the C terminal in the furnace.

If the furnace does not have a C terminal, please see this answer for help figuring out where to connect the wire.

According to the schematic, the grey wire should be C.


How does one find studs in double drywall

The same way we find studs for single drywall.
Magnetic stud finder

Your drywall has to be screwed in properly.   You will have vertical columns of screws.   When the magnet hits something, go up or down a little, if it hits a vertical column - there is your stud.   Since it is double drywall there would definitely not be skipping of studs so you should be able to mark everything in kitchen in a few minutes.


You cannot use a GFCI here.  Fullstop.

It doesn't matter if you want to, nor if you think Code tells you that you must. (I don't think it does).  A GFCI is absolutely not allowed on the ceiling, because you would have no way to TEST or RESET it. Which means it wouldn't ever get tested.  Which defeats the purpose.

Further, the wiring here is fairly complicated, and putting GFCI at an accessible location that would serve this location is a trick. You would have to resort either to a GFCI switch or breaker, depending on how your wiring is laid out.  (note below I talk about XXX and YYY and not caring which is which; with GFCI that would matter.)  It would also exclude the garage door opener, and those things pop GFCIs quite often, and that would send you into a vicious cycle of replacing GDO's until you find one that does not.

As an installer:

Lamps take switched-hot and neutral. That's all you want. Do Not Mess with anything else, or you will have a nightmare on your hands.

The whites are neutral.  They are using it both as service to the lamp and also a splicing block to carry neutral somewhere else.  Just keep them together and attach your lamp also, e.g. with a pigtail.

The red wire is your switched-hot supply to the lamp.  And just so you know, red is the "conventional" color for switched-hot, where colors are possible.  If you're used to seeing black, it's because common /2 cables are made in black and white, but better electricians who color-code wires will tend to use red for switched-hot.

As an electrician:

It's really common for wires to enter a box, and then continue onward to other locations. For instance, if you have multiple lamps, they all need switched-hot and neutral, so you might carry those onward to the other lamps.  Or if you have other always-hot circuits, you might care always-hot onward (which would have nothing to do with the lamp, obviously).

The latter is exactly what happened here.  When the person originally wired it, they probably came from XXX to the switch to the lamp to YYY.   XXX and YYY are either supply, or onward always-hot power to other stuff, and it doesn't matter which is which (the wiring would work out the same either way).

So they ran neutral all the way through; on white because that's required.
They ran always-hot all the way through; on black because that's the convention.
They ran switched-hot from the switch to the lamp, on red because they had a red wire available, and that was a good fit because that's the convention.

I would encourage you to start thinking about using colored tape to mark wires by their function.  When you're able to think that way, instead of just blindly following recipes you find on Google, electrical gets a lot easier and you become able to do more stuff.

Here is how you mount a receptacle on a 4" octagon box.

By the way, don't trip about online prices.  In-store they'll cost about a dollar.

You mount the receptacle to the plate using the center screw.  THEN, you attach the wires (including ground) to the receptacle, and button it up.  The slant is specifically designed to keep the recep from hitting the screw towers.


How can I add more insulation to this roof?

Spray foam insulation is one of the best options for insulating.  It seals very airtight (losses from leaking air can be 40% of your energy bill) and can cover over metal and other materials that can "thermal bridge" and conduct heat from outside.  It is expensive, and is generally applied by a professional which may put it out of your budget.  It is also somewhat flammable and some areas require that it be covered by an ignition resistant material which might be difficult.

Next up would be solid foam panels tightly fit between the trusses.  Third best would be more fiberglass batts like the ones up there already for a greater thickness.  You are trying to increase the air tightness and the total R value.


Can I use copper wire to prevent moss growth on a roof?

The wire might turn green eventually (first it will turn black, in most conditions), the roof won't get nearly enough copper on it to turn green from a strip of wire or flashing at the peak.

I've done this on my parents' house - we just tucked it under shingles to hold it in place, which worked well enough as far as I recall. "Tacking" to me, implies potential new holes/leaks - but if you used copper nails and nailed under shingle flaps, might be OK. If there's a peak, put it there. If it's a single-slope roof, tuck it into the highest row of shingles. The tucked under part does no good against moss, it's the part sticking out in the weather that does that - the tucked under part is just to hold it in place.


What is the viewing window for on this tape measure?

I found the answer. The window is primarily used for measuring the inner side such as of window or door panes.


What is this small faucet in the kitchen?

Based on the fact that it gets weaker after running for a while, I'm going to guess that it's a reverse osmosis water filter.


How do I know if my service panel will accommodate a 240v circuit breaker

The panel can indeed support a 240V breaker. The question you should ask is, is there space in the panel to physically accommodate additional breakers?
Based on the model number, your panel should look something like this.

Notice how this example image has lots of blank spaces. In a panel like this, there's no problem at all installing a new breaker (or double pole breaker in your case). However, it's not likely your panel looks like this. More probable, is your panel has all or nearly all the slots full.
If there are not two free spaces in the panel, you'll not be able to install a new breaker in this panel. You have a few options in this case.

Install tandem breakers where possible to free up slots.
Install a subpanel.

The other problem you could have, is that your current service will not handle the additional load.  This panel can handle 100 amperes, but that does not mean you have 100 amp service. You'll have to check with the local utility to determine the size of the current service. If
Lastly, the panel might already be close to being overloaded. If you have all electric appliances (Range, Dryer, heat, water heater, etc.), adding a hot tub could cause the main breaker to trip from time to time. This will completely depend on your current consumption of power, which is not possible to know based on the information you've provided.
tl;dr
Contact a local licensed Electrician to determine what's required with installing a hot tub.


How can I calculate the effects a floor coverings thermal conductivity will have on my heating costs?

Respectfully, you are trying to compare apples to autos here.

Burning gas makes things hot.

Thermal conductivity is just how fast it takes the heat to get to you.

I suggest you go try to calculate it from theory, physics is fun, calculus is interesting, the numbers will not lie to you, and you will see the logical error immediately.

The heat has to go somewhere. A metal floor would get hot fast, and cold fast.

A concrete floor will get hot slowly, and get cold slowly.

If your floor has a very low thermal resistance - you would be able to feel the path of the heating pipes/elements. It would have hot spots and cold spots.

With a high thermal resistance the entire floor will feel the same temperature.


Is there a good way to add a rebar-type concrete encased grounding electrode AFTER the slab is in?

Basically not without chiseling (or drilling and chiseling) in to find rebar (and it would have to be a 20 foot chunk unless it was all tied properly for use as a ground even though you forgot that part at the time.) Covered by 2" concrete is not actually inaccessible, particularly if the concrete is relatively fresh/green. You can do that, and patch where you chisel out, or you can drive a few extra ground rods (one more will technically do, but they are not that expensive...)
Note if you have (code acceptably, but practically dubious) buried your rod horizontally at 3 feet, do consider actually driving it and any friends you give it in. I have 5 driven from the bottom of a 3 foot trench (so they go down to 11 feet) myself. My concrete contractor ignored local code and did not provide a ground connection as is required in all new concrete foundations here.


a. c. nielsen equipment causing damage to outlets

GFC trips are caused by a very small ground fault current. Seems more likely that Keurig plus TV and Nielsen caused the branch circuit breaker to trip. You should be able to find, get access and reset that without an electrician. However an electrician should investigate why the living room outlet is on the same branch circuit as the kitchen. Depending on where you live, that is likely an electrical code violation.

Circuit breakers and GFCs do go bad. When they do they should fail so that they trip when they shouldn't or don't reset rather than fail to trip.


Does PVC conduit need a termination bushing at a service panel?

From the NEC:

  352.46 Bushings. Where a conduit enters a box, fitting, or
  other enclosure, a bushing or adapter shall be provided to
  protect the wire from abrasion unless the box, fitting, or
  enclosure design provides equivalent protection.

The important part is bolded above - you need a bushing unless your fitting provides equivalent protection - that is, equivalent to the protection a bushing provides.

You'll probably terminate your conduit in your panel with either a PVC male terminal adapter:

or a PVC box adapter:

I think anyone would agree the box adapter provides protection equivalent to a bushing.

I believe it's generally accepted that a PVC male adapter does provide equivalent protection, but you might find someone that disagrees, and some of them are pretty sharp.  I usually ream them with lineman's pliers to take the edge off and do without the bushing.

The box adapters make a great connection but since they are cemented on, they are a pain if you have to remove and replace them.


Easiest way to cut, shave, or chisel bottom 8" of posts to fit footings

You're going to shave the sides, not the bottom.  The stability will come from the down force on the bottom of the post - a milimeter shift laterally inside a mounted bracket is nothing.

That said - easiest approach IMO will be to set your circular saw to an extremely shallow depth and notch 8" height to that depth on TWO sides, not all four - and repeat that notch from the top line all the way down to the bottom - cutting over and over and over.  Then use a chisel to knock out the rest of the wood and clean it up some.

Something like this but with a REALLY shallow depth on your circ saw.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0GJw7y9vzc


Can I reduce the current/power consumption of an electrical heater by adding a resistor?

Let's explore what can be done with series combinations. We'll begin by working out the resistance of each of the elements. V=IR and P=VI, so P=V^2/R and thus R=V^2/P. The 800W element is 72 ohms, the 1200W is 48 ohms, and the 2000W is 28.8 ohms.

First, to directly answer your question, could a resistor be added in series with that 2000W element to make it heat less? Suppose we wanted to get 1500W from the combination of the element and the resistor. We'd need the combined resistance to be 240^2/1500=38.4 ohms, and the 2000W element contributes 28.8 of this, so another 9.6 ohms are needed. How much power would that new resistor need to safely dissipate? Well, the 1500W power at 240V means a current of 1500/240=6.25 amps. Then the power in that new 9.6 ohm resistor is I^2*R or 375W. It's not impossible to find a resistor capable of handling that power, but it's not exactly easy either.

OK, what would happen if two of your heaters were wired in series? Suppose we pick the 2000W and the 800W. The total resistance is 100.8 ohms and the power would be 571W. Added to the full-power 1200W unit, you'll have 1771W of heating. If the 2000W and the 1200W are in series then it's 76.8 ohms and 750W, for a room total of 1550W. Finally, if the 2000W is allowed to run full power while the 800W and 1200W units are in series, they'll have a resistance of 120 ohms and power 480W. The room total would be 2480W.

One other option.. you could consider powering any of the heaters from 120V instead of 240V. It'll deliver 1/4 of the nameplate power if you do that.


3 Lights, One Switch, Power at 1st Light - HELP!

You'll need to run 12/3 to the switch anyway to conform with current Codes, but the 12/2 between the lights is OK
The issue with the diagram you posted is that it predates the 2011 NEC's amendments in 404.2(C) to require neutrals at light switch locations so that you can install a smart-switch down the road without having to make a fuss over things.  This means that instead of using a 12/2 from the light to the switch, you'll have to use a 12/3, with the white in the 12/3 used to provide neutral at the switch location.
The good news about that, though, is it means that putting the receptacle at the switch location will Just Work, as all the correct wires for it will be there anyway.  Once you have the switch and receptacle working, with switched-hot available at the first light fixture, then the onwards cable gets connected to switched-hot and neutral, with each subsequent light fixture connected between black (switched-hot) and white (neutral) of the onwards wiring.
Of course, this assumes that you're routing the switch loop from the first light fixture in the chain (where power comes in at).  If you want to place the switch loop at the last light fixture in the chain, then you're stuck replacing all the 12/2 between the light fixtures with 12/3, as you'll need to bring always-hot all the way out to the switch, then bring switched-hot all the way back to the first light, while providing neutral at every point in the chain as well.


Are gaps above and below framing members a concern?

I always wonder “what else is wrong” when there are so many obvious errors.

You’ve noted the obvious problems, but you’ve probably missed some major items that are not so obvious:

In Picture #1 you’ve noted the gap issue, but missed the “double spliced sole plate”. (Splices are to be a minimum of 4’ apart, unless at intersection of a wall.)
In Picture #1 it’s difficult to see, but the subfloor is not nailed properly. (Nailing should be a maximum of 12” apart in the field and 6”” apart at the edges.)
In Picture #2 a twist strap is not an acceptable connector when it’s improperly nailed into a piece of blocking. (The length of the nails need to be long enough to penetrate into the beam...going through the piece of blocking reduces it too much.)
In Picture #2 I don’t understand your comment about the “pocket”, but if the beam requires two trimmers then it needs a connector too. (That whole assembly is questionable.)
In Picture #3 the gaps you circled are acceptable , but I doubt TV he double top plate is nailed together properly. It requires 16d nails at 8” on center (at a minimum) and I see no nails poking through the lower plate. 16d nails are long enough that they’ll show through the lower plate. If it isn’t nailed properly it does not meet code in your area (Alaska) and could fail under any seismic load.
In Picture #4 the framing to too “wonky” to be acceptable, including the gap you indicate at the top of the double jack studs. If the contractor argues that there are other jack studs next to them “so it doesn’t matter”. Let them know that the load is transferred to the foundation at the double jacks...not at random locations.
In Picture #5 the trimmer (jack studs) is not acceptable. It does not provide adequate bearing for that size beam. In addition the 3/4” plywood studs are not acceptable (actually they could produce structural calculations to prove me wrong, but I doubt it would be acceptable in your location for seismic activity.) Also, you’d need to glue the sheathing to the studs and I doubt there’s adequate nailing ...12” on center in field and 6” on center along edges.

I’d love to see more pictures to determine if floor sheathing in Picture #5 is adequate, roof sheathing is nailed properly, etc. Usually bad framing extends to anchor bolts, anchor bolt washers, holddowns, etc.

I agree with Greg Hill and “upvoted” his answer that you must get these things fixed before you proceed or you’ll be paying the cost to replace anything installed later.


If I install a 30 amp breaker in my breaker box, can I use 15 amp outlets on the circuit, provided none of the appliances used exceed 15 amps?

This simply will not work.  The only receptacles you are allowed to put on a 30A breaker are 30A receptacles.  Those are unfit for your purpose.

Further, if your expected loads are near 30A, you should be derating this by 125% (37.5A) and provisioning that much power - I.E. 40A.  And they don't even make 120V/40A receptacles.

The right way to do this is to fit a sub panel at the shed, and have individual circuit breakers protecting each #14 or #12 circuit.

I am also concerned about what your feed cable is to the shed.  This too will be a limiting factor in your total possible load.  There are ways around them, but you should not use those ways until you are well past mismatching sockets, wires and breakers.


What steps to install a lightning rod on my 1 story home?

My understanding of lightning rods is that the general design is just as you describe, but you must contact the local electrical code enforcement for the exact specifications, equipment, and procedures. They may give you advice on how you can install this yourself or they may require you to have it professionally installed. After all you don't want to have happen to your house what happened to Mark Twain's house in NY. Mark Twain's lightning rod story

BTW it is my understanding that Twain's story is without any scientific basis even though it is delightful tale. Lightning rods actually don't attract lightning, but instead prevent it from striking in the first place. The idea is the sharp point on the rod discharges the charge in the earth induced by a charged cloud overhead.


Does dark exterior paint hold and transfer more heat to an uninsulated house?

A darker color absorbs more heat so yes it will heat the home more during the day. Your concern is valid. White is the least absorbent color and black is the most absorbent color.


Why do you need to not use cement when laying block paving?

A properly prepared sand base for the paving blocks provides a level surface, a support for the expected loads on the pavers and a means of allowing rain and other water run-off. The blocks are held in place by gravity and by properly preparing the perimeter of the paving area, which can be landscape timbers, concrete borders or similar.

There are liquids known as landscape binders that can be applied to the sand, but they are primarily used where slopes are involved, preventing wash-away erosion. I'm not certain if applying binder to the sand would remove the ability for rain and water seep-through, but I suspect that it would.

Concrete does not give the same visual appeal and if used as a grouting material increases the labor involved in building a paved area.


How do I cut bamboo flooring with only a hand miter saw and a circular saw available?

Generally, when you put in a floor, all the edges you cut yourself are covered by molding, so that the flooring can expand and contract. If that's the case, then your cuts don't have to be perfect.

I wouldn't, however, want to do it with a handsaw. Bamboo is very hard and it will take a long time to cut.

In most places you can rent miter saws for a small amount per day. That will be far easier than doing it by hand.


How to caulk uneven gap in corner of kitchen backsplash?

I think the trouble is with your tooling method. It's wobbly. :)

Either trim your tube better to act as a forming tool itself, or make a tool out of cardboard or plastic, or purchase one of those found at hardware stores to achieve more consistency.

You could also mask the lines with tape, caulk, and remove the tape. This may leave raised edges, though.


Why would only 1/3 of my registers be blowing warm air?

Your A/C unit on the roof should only start running if it's heat pump, and it definitely shouldn't be running at the same time as the gas furnace.

I'll take a guess that your thermostat is wired incorrectly, and it's running the air conditioner and furnace at the same time.


Can I add a 50 amp breaker for an arc welder?

Depends on how much load the rest of the house is putting on the service at the same time... but if the total demand stays under what your service is rated for, and you use wiring that can handle the 50A demand, you theoretically should be OK.

Run the numbers.

(My electric drier plugs into a 220V outlet fed by a pair of 30A breakers, and I have only 100A total service; that's roughly proportional to what you want to do. When I switch to a gas drier, I'm planning to re-route those 30A legs to my workshop.)


wiring lights and continuing the circuit to another light circuit

No problem at all, that's exactly how it should be done.


How should I secure an unused wire in my breaker panel?

Land it on the neutral bus

Since you have the correct breaker in there for a mixed 120/240VAC circuit, simply land the white wire on the panel neutral bus -- this way, it'll be readily available for someone in the future who wishes to repurpose this circuit.


Possibilities for shielding porch deck from rain

I was going to suggest rainhandler as well - because I'm a civil engineer and I think it's a neat idea - but not because I've ever actually seen it used (it is not a common product). However, I would not install on my own home if heavy snows or ice were a big concern.

I believe what you're looking for is a simple drip edge, similar to your picture. Do a quick search for "drip edge" or "drip flashing" and you'll find all kinds of products (many of which are likely available at your local home improvement store). Drip edges are often installed with a gutter system, but can be installed on their own as well. A drip edge is just a strip of metal or plastic that moves water droplets a short distance away from a building and then lets them fall straight down.

As you've shown in your picture, a drip edge will usually have a 45 degree bend at the end. This bend is what makes the water droplets fall down, as it is very difficult for them to travel "back up" the backside of the bend. If your flashing were flat on the bottom I.e. a 90 degree bend, then it would not work well because water droplets could wick back to the building by traveling along the flat bottom.

One problem that I see with your picture is the placement of the flashing - there's no overlap from the metal roof to the drip edge. Drip edges are more commonly installed at the top edge (top of the fascia), often under shingles. The idea is that you want water droplets to roll off the shingles or metal, onto the drip edge, and then down to the ground. In your picture, water droplets would roll off the metal roof, down the fascia, and then (hopefully) down the drip edge. I say hopefully because most likely you'll end up with some sort of gap (however small) between your drip edge and the fascia. This little gap is where mold likes to grow and water likes to sit to rot away your fascia. Installing your drip edge at the bottom is fine, but I would then choose a product that covers the fascia too, and then goes up under the metal roof (the drip edge needs to somehow start underneath the metal roof). You want a continuous path of overlapped materials for water droplets to flow down - like how shingles always overlap the next one below.


What is the recommended technique for refinishing hardwood floors?

Belt-style floor sanders were current years ago, but more recently the best bet is a random-orbit style sander like the Varathane ezV sander.
(source: rustoleum.com)

The random-orbit sanders don't have nearly the risk of grooving that the belt sanders do, and these ones also have a built-in vaccuum which collects a large portion of the dust, unlike the sanders of my childhood.

I've sanded both floors of my house using that system; each floor took about a 3-day weekend start to finish using a process similar to this one.  I did find that I needed to use a hand-held belt sander for the edges, and since our floors are not all that even we used it to get the existing finish out of some of the deeper spots in the floor as well. If you pull out your trim and use some care you should be able to get right to the edges without having to do more than touch up the paint on the trim.

We just used the water-based polyurethane and have been quite happy with the results, but it's absolutely worth it to put down as many coats as you can - we ended up doing 4.


The light is probably not an LED, but it is a neon bulb.

Neon bulbs get old and they will light only when there is outside energy available to excite the gas inside the bulb. This outside energy is light.

You can also see the effect on old power bars that have an illuminated switch that constantly flickers.

If you use the tester in a dark room, the bulb will probably not light.
It will probably light if you shine light onto the tester.

The solution is to replace the tester.


Do I need to add plywood underlayment over plywood subfloor?

I prefer underlayment On top of sub flooring if there are a lot of bulges from the screws I would put a thin layer of spackel or self leveling cement down then the sub flooring.
If you use a pad the vinyl plank may be fine on the existing Sub floor but when redoing my houses I want it nice so I would use an underlayment.

The problem with plywood is knot holes and blows will end up showing through over time with some floors underlayment is cheaper and better for this case. Always stagger the seams don’t put any new seams over the old ones.


Can I have a "hollow" basement bathroom floor?

A good practice is to pour a solid concrete slab over the sewer pipes. Any exposed wood would eventually rot, especially if all you have under it is a dirt floor.

These installations are tricky. Common problems are that the pipes are not vented properly, they aren't pitched correctly, or the type and/or size of the pipes is incorrect. You should also make sure that there is at least one drain cleanout installed. This will allow access to the pipes if they become clogged.

Here is a guide which will show you the basic steps involved: http://www.familyhandyman.com/bathroom/remodeling/how-to-plumb-a-basement-bathroom/view-all


The service panel

First, that tiny 16-space panel is already super-full, and way to small for any civilized sort of house. As you refinish that basement, provision space for either

Fitting a subpanel directly beneath it (or anywhere else in the house that is convenient).  I recommend a 30-space/30-60 "circuit" so you finish with 44 spaces (30+16-2).  A main-lug subpanel is fine.
Replacing the main panel with a 40-space, however this is intrusive and/or expensive.

The 30-40 space new panel will certainly have a higher amp bus rating than your current service; that is desirable, it's like fitting VR tires (130mph) on your car instead of R tires (85 mph) even though you don't exceed 85.  If you replace the main panel the new main breaker will surely be 225A, change it to whatever size the electric company tells you to.

I boggle at what is going on with the wood framing around the panel.  It looks like the framing is proud of the panel and giving it side clearance, with cables running along the sides of the panel.  That's fine, but more room should be given so you aren't bunching >4 cables together, and so you can practically use the plentiful side knockouts on the panel.

Conduit vs. wire guard

There are two ways to use conduit:

as a random piece of metal to guard/protect wires run in a cable wiring method, this involves monkey-wrestling balky cable down the pipe.
as the conduit wiring method, wherein you are entitled to use individual wires (and even stranded wire, which is wonderful to work with, though tricky to terminate at a non-screw-to-clamp outlet or switch)

You can transition between the cable wiring method and conduit wiring method at any junction box.  That's important because  given the framing around that service panel, it may be challenging to get conduit all the way to it.


How can I determine if a wall is load bearing?

Load bearing walls typically run perpendicular to the floor and ceiling joists. So if you can figure out which direction those run in, any wall perpendicular to that has a good change of being load-bearing.

If there is a crawlspace you can access, that's an easy way to determine floor-joist direction. You can also spot the support pillars/poles underneath as well. Any wall above a support pillar is also likely load bearing.

Other than that, you need to bring someone in that can help you figure it out (contractor/engineer).

Note that if you are open to the idea of keeping 'parts' of the walls, that's helpful, as said parts can then house support columns for beams that span the section of the wall you took out. How large those beams need to be goes back to needing a structural engineer for help.


Would I use a reverse thread lag screw swage stud for tensioning cable?

Yes, you'd purchase swage hardware in both "hands". Swages in left-hand thread (LHT) are readily available, as seen here, for example.

The alternative would be to use swiveling swage fittings, which will allow you to tension the cables without regard for direction.


How can I add a 30 amp breaker for an RV connection?

You're in luck -- your panel can accept another 240V breaker in the bottom knockout pair.  You'll need a 30A Siemens type QP breaker to install there, which you can pick up at a typical big-box store.  (A GFCI is not needed here, best I can tell, because this is a single outlet in dedicated service.)


What should I do to increase the dimming range of LED bulbs?

I'm in same boat.  When I redid the house I'm in, I installed as much LED lighting as I could and the rest is halogen.  What I've learned is, dimming range is based completely on the driver in the LED bulb.  And most LED bulbs will only dim to about 20-30% of there maximum.

I'm sure you know how dimmers work, but for those that don't it is basically a super fast switch turning the light on and off very quickly.  In incandescent bulbs, this works perfectly providing a nice smooth dimming range.  In LED/CF's it is a nightmare for them to deal with.  To get around it, they actually have to have extra circuitry to interpret the on/off pattern and then use that to control the brightness.  During the on phase they pull extra power to provide power to the light during the off phase as well.  For LED's, the driver reduces the voltage to the LED elements but never actually turns them off.  So what normally would be dimmed to almost nothing for a incandescent, is pretty bright for an LED because it's pulling 2-3x as much wattage during that on phase to keep the capacitors charged and the light going.

TL;DR; For LED's, you have to look for high end bulbs that actually list their dimming range.

Now hopefully we will not be stuck for long with incandescent analog dimmers driving digital bulbs.  There are a couple of standards trying to gain traction for pure digital dimming.  These work by actually never dimming the power but instead sending a digital signal on the power line to tell the bulb to dim.  Think philips hue bulb being controlled by a light switch instead of a wireless hub.  But right now none are on the market for consumer level products.


Can you support a 20ft 2x6 only at the ends?

2x6 DF #2 Supported o the ends can handle about 11 lb. per Ln. Ft. total load.  This would include snow.  would recommend at least 2x8 if you are okay with sagging from wood creep after many years.  4x8, (2) 2x8, or 2x10 would be better.


What's a good way to anchor the central bolts of a pair of gates?

Not sure if it would interfere with the operation of the gates, but if you set that tube into the ground and left a slight lip sticking above the cement, that would probably do a lot to keep stuff out of the hole.


Is a bathroom required by code to have a window or exhaust fan?

Codes differ between areas and across time. The International Residential Code requires SOME form of venting, either a fan exhausting to the outside with at least 50CFM or a window with at least 1-1/2 sq. ft. of opening area. Whether or not your locality adopted those standards at the time your condo was built is not something we can help with. But code or no code, an un-vented bathroom (with a bath or shower) is a bad idea and ESPECIALLY in a humid part of the world.
"Ventless" bathroom fans are only for fart control by blowing the air through a carbon filter, they have zero effect on humidity and the likelihood of mold and mildew formation.


What bulb should I use in 4" recessed lights?

The 953P does not come with a socket extension. I'm not sure where you got it or why. With an H99 I can't see the use of one.
You CANNOT use a 12v MR16 in an H99 can. In fact, the 1420 trim is not for use with the H99 series. It is ONLY for use with the H1499 series low voltage housings.
See here: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/lighting/products/documents/halo/spec_sheets/HR_ADV110509_990trim_spec.pdf
Yes, 50 watts is the incandescent wattage limit. The CFL or LED equivalent does not apply.


Will using surge protectors with a two prong outlet adapter help against power fluctuations

First, I'd suggest looking at Is is safe to plug a surge protector into a 2-prong outlet using a 3-to-2-prong adapter?.  That may answer your question.  I'd also suggest looking at the outlet box and seeing if it's already grounded, in which case you could just replace the outlet.

However, if it's protection against power fluctuations you want, I'd suggest a UPS, not a surge protector.  They have an internal battery, and if you buy an Online/double-conversion UPS, the battery is always what's providing the power.  They may well not like being without a ground.


GFCI outlet on 2-wire ungrounded question

(NB: I'm not an electrician, just a homeowner who has done some electrical work)
Related: Does a non grounded GFCI meet code?
It is 'perfectly acceptable' in that it is compliant with code (as long as it is properly labeled, as you state). A GFCI if wired correctly should trip if there is a difference between the current coming in and the current going out (between the hot and the neutral, basically).
However, you are right as well that there are dangers/disadvantages to not having a ground wire. The point of ground wires (and requiring them in new construction) is because it is safer both for you and for the equipment you have plugged in.
Without a ground, a lightning strike or other power surge can seriously damage you (if you are touching a plug or outlet when it occurs) or your equipment plugged into any ungrounded receptacle. Ground wires act as an 'escape route' for extra current to travel safely back to the actual ground underneath your home.
Millions of people lived for decades in non-grounded homes and never had issues. But many people have experienced shock or equipment failure due to said lack of ground. It's up to you if the threat of power surge / lightning strike ruining your equipment is an 'acceptable risk' or not.


Correctly dealing with crumbling basement walls

Is there a way to repair this...

It's a lath and plaster wall, probably on furring strips. Remove anything that's lose and patch the holes with easy-sand or durabond (chemically setting). If it's bad enough the plaster might need to all come off and then drywall it, unless you can raise someone from the dead who can actually do plaster.

... to prevent future debris from accumulating?

That's the hard part about money pits. Intentionally removing any other lose plaster will give you more time until you'll need to do it again. But that's a band-aid on a foundation issue: water ingress.

But you patching the walls every decade is a lot cheaper than having drain tile installed around the outside perimeter of your house, and if you have a relatively dry basement with no flooding or seepage issues; not really worth it. Just make sure the grade is away from the house, and keep your gutters clean.

The other, somewhat excessive, option is to tear it all off and parge coat the foundation with the appropriate mortar. If the seepage problem is minimal, that should last the rest of your life. Again, you'd need someone who knows how to trowel, or it will look like a parge coat.

A picture might help, but I wouldn't be able to feel how lose all the plaster is. Use your best judgment. If large parts of the wall flex in the slightest, it should probably all come down. But it's a basement, maybe you don't really care; then patch and paint it with whatever (chemically sets). But when parts start falling off while you drag a paint roller over it, you know what you should have done.


How best to drill pilot holes through hardened steel exterior door frame?

If it is possible that you used the drill bit with the electric drill set to the wrong rotation direction, without realizing it, the freshly ground new drill bit will likely be able to drill a hole through the thin steel but at the same time will dull and round off sharp edges so much that a second reverse operation would never start to cut into the metal.

The electric drill has to be setup to rotate the drill bit in the direction shown in this picture:


Don't disturb the asbestos if you can avoid it.

Check with your town to see if there are special rules, but in general the process will be: clean the existing tiles thoroughly, with something that will remove grease and dirt. If any old tiles are loose, nail them in place with 6D nails, then use a nail set to countersink the nail heads. Use a thin coat of floor leveler on the old tile to fill the seams between tiles and level off any dents and depressions that have formed over time. When it cures, lay down plywood as a new subfloor.

Check the directions for the new tile to see what they recommend for thickness and type of subfloor, as well as the recommended gap between sheets of plywood, and the number and type of fasteners to use to attach the subfloor. Be sure your fasteners are long enough to get all the way into the original subfloor, under the asbestos floor (unless you're really fond of squeaky floors and popped tiles).

Sweep the subfloor, then use a thin coat of floor leveler to fill the gaps between the plywood sheets as well as the dimples created by the fasteners. When it cures, clean the subfloor thoroughly, then lay your new floor. If you leveled things well, and fastened the new subfloor properly, your new floor should be fine.

I think most people picture ceramic tiles with curved edges when you say "tiled floor" rather than flat linoleum tile, which is what I'm guessing is actually there. Trying to put a new floor over ceramic tile would be a recipe for failure, but putting it over linoleum would be fine.


How do I winterize this sprinkler system

There is no need to hookup an air compressor at all, should have contacted the local city water department first. They told me that the secondary water supplier will shutoff the valves on their end and this will cause the water to drain back leaving very small amounts of water in the pipes to be blown if you really wanted to use an air compressor.


Hot Water Water Hammer When Cutting Off Cold Supply

Water hammer can happen with very low flows. The fact that it stopped for a few days after draining your water heater tells me that a water hammer arrestor would fix the problem as well as a “air leg”. when we built homes my dad would install vertical dead end pipe 2-3’ long pointing up on the supply line and sometimes do the same in bathrooms. This air cushion stops the water hammer like a water hammer arrestor but will last a lifetime arrestor last a long time but do leak when they wear out. The arrestor is smaller device that can be added later at a toilet or sink supply line and they cost about 15$. An air leg can be added with a T at the supply to the water heater then a section of pipe with a cap up to the ceiling less than 15$ but if copper it takes some skill to solder, CPVC is quite easy and can be done similar to copper with primer & solvent for about the same cost. It’s not the water heater but a loose pipe issue combined with a resonant flow that causes the water hammer. Add a air pocket or arrestor and this usually eliminates the water hammer.


The easiest way to do this would be to turn one switch on and the other off, and then, using a voltmeter, see which wire has power at the j-box.


Watt's the best way to run a new ground to my garage?

What you need isn't a ground rod -- it's an EGC (ground wire) run back to the rest of the grounding system, so that current can use it as a safety return to the neutral/ground bond in the main panel.

Fortunately, under the 2014 NEC -- you can run your new ground wire to a suitably sized branch circuit ground, as well as to the equipment ground conductor system, or to the main panel.  It can also follow any route you wish -- as it's a safety-drain of sorts, it doesn't have to be routed with the other circuit conductors.


What is the right A/C contactor part that I need?

I searched R8243 and came up with a Honeywell cross R4243b1012.
Part numbers change all the time but this should be a compatible part 24v coil and a double pole contact set without knowing your compressor size it would be hard to guess at the right size because Honeywell did not provide the specs for the original.
It’s not a big deal as long as the control voltage 24v is the same   It’s a double pole motor contactor the last part would be the HP rating.  Well and it fits. It won’t hurt to get a larger one as long as it fits. I put larger ones in all the time the contacts actually last longer.


It sounds like you have power entering the junction box at the light fixture, then running to one of the switches. If you actually have power entering both switch boxes independently, this will never work and you need to look at the connections at the light fixture.

EDIT Here's a 3-way switch:

Here's what should be happening in your case in order for the switches to work:

One wire, entering one switch box, should be hot from the power source (if the circuit breaker is on, this wire is hot).
That hot wire should be connected to the common screw on the 3-way switch.
The travelers (the other two screws on the switch) should run straight from one switch to the other, with no other connections along the way, through the light fixture's j-box. (the travelers from each side will be connected to each other with wire nuts in the j-box, of course).
The wire that is attached to the common terminal on the other 3-way switch should be connected to the black wire on the light fixture. This is the power coming out of the switches.
The white wire on the light fixture should be connected (wire nut) directly to the neutral wire in the j-box under the light fixture. If you're using Romex, this is going to be the white wire in the 14-2 or 12-2 cable that supplies power into that j-box.

Here's another StackExchange answer that shows very simply how 3-way switches function.

And another very long, detailed answer (holy smoke, I thought my answer was too long).

This diagram shows 3-way switches with power entering the light fixture box, and seems less confusing than many. It's surprising how many mislabeled diagrams of 3-way switches there are out there:

http://cindyjerrell.com/artwork/2012554_3_Way_Switch_Wiring_Diagram.html

A little more explanation

There are different ways to physically wire up 3 way switches, depending on whether power enters one of the switch boxes or enters the switched fixture. But they all add up to exactly the same thing.

You have 3 terminals on each switch. The different-colored one (usually darker) is the common, and the other two are "travelers."

So you have 2 travelers. This is usually the red and white, if your wiring is NM/Romex 3-rope, and you would use a black permanent marker or wrap black tape around the end of the white wire to indicate it is a hot conductor (not a neutral) in the switch circuit.

It sounds like you have something other than NM 3-rope going on in the wall between the light fixture and one of the switches (not the end of the world--electricity doesn't care about the color of the insulation on the wire).

The travelers always run straight between the same-colored terminals on both 3-way switches, no other connections

Depending on the positions of the switches, one of the travelers is always hot.

If the switches are positioned so that the common on both ends is connected to the hot traveler (which could be either traveler), then the circuit is complete and the light comes on.

The purpose of the travelers is to complete or break an electrical connection between the common terminals on the 3-way switches.

Now that the travelers are out of the way (connect them to the two same-colored terminals on the switches, forget about them), consider the common terminals...

Regardless of where the power enters the circuit, you run your hot wire to the common terminal on one switch, and wire the hot lead on your fixture to the common terminal on the other switch.

The entire set of 3-way switches, as a whole, just switches the juice on the common terminal of the 3-way switch at the opposite end.


Edit: Now you've added information.  You are running both a saw and a dust collector.   You want to route the wires outside, even though the garage is attached.

I don't understand why people withhold important information like "I'm running several big tools at once".  That's a far cry from what you said, which is "a few plugs". Garbage in, garbage out: if the info you give us is cheese, our advice will be cheese as well.  That's why you got a different answer at Home Depot: you gave different info.

As you discovered, you cannot run a saw and a dust collector off one circuit.  I don't know how they can sell these things without a disclaimer mentioning that.  There's a hard limit of 4800W (20A) on circuits which serve common household 120V outlets, and that is simply not sufficient to run a saw and dust collector together.

An even bigger sin is when people also put lights on the same circuit; get digging into a knot, trip the breaker and now they're in the pitch black with their fingers 3" from a spinning blade.

So I recommend two new circuits.  You can do that with the orange wire you have, IF you route the wire so it's entirely interior to the building, and get some help setting up a MWBC.  I won't explain further because that requires way more sense of precision than you are displaying here.  Get an electrician but at least you can route the wire.

Exterior routing

Given the complexity of selecting and protecting cable, and weather-sealing wall penetrations so your walls don't rot out, my best advice is don't.

Interior routing

The orange cable is fine.  You're only allowed to use a 15A or 20A circuit breaker on circuits with common household outlets.  But you're allowed to use oversized wire if you want, which is what you'd be doing here.

You may need some short 6" sections of 12 AWG wire to "pigtail", as 10 AWG wire may not fit on the screw terminals of common receptacles.  (Do not use "backstabs".)

You have 4 wires in the bundle and only need 3.  Cap off the fourth wire, don't hack it off.  It could later be used for a MWBC or even a sub-panel.

If you're wondering about the orange, there is not any official standard as to the color of the outer sheath.  Informally, many manufacturers have agreed to use white=14 AWG, yellow=12 AWG, orange=10 AWG. A few manufacturers use white for all sizes. All these are for interior use only.  If you're going anywhere wet, outdoors or underground, you need different cable listed for that.

It is illegal to use cable if the outer sheath is not marked. The interior wires don't need to be marked.  Also, if by chance it is aluminum, that is illegal for new work (and dangerous for old work) unless -- well, ask here for advice.


How much water is too much water underneath the basement concrete?

To answer "how much is too much," if it's causing dampness in the basement, wet concrete, efflorescence, etc. then it's too much. If the only reason you know about it is because of the new hole, then I would monitor it over a few months.  It should eventually dry out.  If it doesn't then you might look at a sump pump.

As to what to fill hole with, fill it with gravel to about 4-6" below the floor surface, then finish with concrete to match the surrounding area.

It's also worth taking a look at the grading outside your house, water show flow away from your foundation.  Also make sure eaves are draining far enough away from your house.


Can I using a 3-phase connection to power 1-phase AC unit?

Both are correct.  The 3-phase breaker is just 3 separate 1-phase breakers with a handle physically connected so shutting off one shuts off all.

Code correctness depends on your local jurisdiction.  In virtually all USA locations, separate uses of each phase allows either breaker setup, while use of all 3 phases on the same device requires the 3-phase common handle breaker.

The 3 separate breakers would be more convenient with 3 separate circuits since you won't turn so much off if one of them goes off.  But there may be a rule that requires this in some location.


What to do about different rooms in the house being a completely different temperature?

It's a balancing problem, fairly typical for a one-zone heating system spanning an entire house.

Mind you, I'm a bit concerned with a setup that kicks on the A/C in heating season - being from a primarily heating climate, we typically have a "winter/summer" or "heating/off/cooling" mode switch either on the system/boiler/furnace or on the thermostat to prevent that sort of foolishness. If it's REALLY so hot in winter or cold in in summer that we want to change the mode, WE choose to change the mode, rather than leaving it up to a machine to decide.

Presumably you have forced air heat, since the same system is cooling. One approach to improve balance is to run the fan more to distribute air around the house and balance temperatures even when heat is not being delivered. A more basic step is adjusting the airflow to different parts of the system for heat delivery that more closely keeps things even - but if the same system is cooling this may be difficult to get balanced in a manner that works well for both, since heat rises and cold air sinks, left to itself.

The system may be oversized (so it quickly heats or cools the location of the thermostat, and then shuts off the fan, rather than running a large percentage of the time when it's cold out), but all systems are prone to being somewhat oversized much of the year in order to be large enough to heat on the coldest days and cool on the warmest days.

A good HVAC professional may well be worth talking to in order to tune your system as best it can be tuned. Moving to continuous circulation (perhaps at a lower fan speed) seems like it might be needed in this house to reduce stratification, at a guess. The only major downside if your system is not too noisy will be the electric bill for running the fan.

As a quick stopgap, examine your thermostat to see if it has a "fan" switch, typically with two positions - Auto (blows only to heat/cool) and "on" or "Continuous" - if the switch exists and is wired correctly, that should put the fan in continuous circulation mode - but you may want to alter the system to make that quieter and/or more efficient with a lower speed or even an entirely different fan/blower. And it may still need to be balanced to work better.


Patio Light Fixture To Electrical Socket

One possible idea for this connection is to look for an octagon electrical box cover that looks like this:

Then acquire a box to box electrical connector that looks like this:

This can then be joined to a back hole in an appropriate electrical box that gets surface mounted to the face of the wall. This box would then accommodate the needed outlet and exterior in-use cover assembly.


Window security pins to pull hinge tight

There is such a window component that holds the hinge side of a casement tight and it's typically found on the exterior side of the sash when it is closed.

The component is called a snubber (different from an anti-jemming) and can either be made of PVC or Aluminum to match the exterior finish of the window. (Additional link 1)

___

Though snubbers are intended to prevent bowing (see item description) of an outswing-casement, they can also be used to ensure that the sash is close to the frame when closed. However, snubbers are not the only elements that help the sash seal better. The weatherstripping and the casement hardware also determine how tight it is and you can contact the window's Service Technician to adjust the operator arms/hardware of the casement sash without having to replace either/both the weatherstrip or hardware.

Though, depending on what kind of operator handle you have, you can remove the handle and reattach it at a slightly rotated position from where it originally was. However, please do this at your own discretion as over-tightening the sash can cause issues related to the performance of the casement and/or damage the operator hardware if the seal is too tight.

Note: The operator handle solution below is only applicable to crank-out style casements. If the window you have is a Euro-style (turn and/or tilt with handle) contacting a Service Technician for adjustments is recommended.
(Pictures of your window are needed to better address the sealing issues you have with it.)

1:
  [2]:
  [3]:
  [4]:

[Update] In the event of your window being a Euro-styled window, with a multipoint locking system, you would need to adjust/re-calibrate the Compression Strikers, Turn[/tilt] Strikers, and Lift Mishandling Device(s) attached to the inside perimeter of the frame. Without proper training or tools, however, maintaining consistent alignment on all four sides of the sash can be difficult and may compromise the weatherseal of the window.

___

Hinge Wedges

A final solution are hinge wedges/pull in blocks.

They work almost identically to the snubbers at the top, however these wedges are concealed within the sash/frame void and slide against each other to "pull in" the sash.


Well, one thing that doesn't make any sense based on the picture is this part:

  Basically the area of wall is made up of two sheets of plaster board and at the join the plaster board has been broken through

I'm not even sure it looks like this, but in any event, how exactly would you have cracked this without causing any other damage to the wall?  Like if you had banged the wall so hard as to crack a seam, you'd expect to see other damage to the wall.

Assuming these cracks do line up to the seam, two things come to mind. (1) The boards were not staggered properly and (2) The installer likely did not use paper or fiberglass tape on the seams - I think it looks more like a crummy installation.

At the end of the day though, this isn't really a serious issue, more of just wear and tear; all walls get banged up to some degree. The owner should just sand, patch and paint it and move on.


Can a Solartube be installed in a garden shed?

Yes, you could do that (by cutting the tube or having it project like a smoke stack) but why buy an expensive, long solar tube when, for a fraction of the cost, one could get a shed skylight that would sit flush with the ceiling and have the added benefit of the integrated vents such things can have?


If adding insulation to the outside (roof) is prohibitively expensive, then the alternative is to add it to the inside. Tear out the sheetrock, fur out the joists, and add our insulation there and re-sheetrock.


Will showering with the fan on and bathroom door open prevent mold?

A you hear all of the time mold needs moisture to get moving.
But, it also needs time, and a food source.
The Drywall and most surfaces give it that food source, but the time and moisture you can control.
If the house is new, the fan should be fit to size. I say this, but sadly it's often not true. Also, if the roommate likes steamy shower rooms, a good fan and an open door will likely remove the "steam room like" environment.
So, my opinion-ated answer based on these thoughts & some known facts:
Fan & venting:

Ensure the fan is the right size for the room. Please see what it is rated at, increase it to a higher cfm fan if need be.
Check the vent tubing, it should be rigid, not ribbed flexible like most contractors and builders, and homeowners use.
The shorter and straighter the run for the vent tubing, the better. Use 6" vs. 4" even. Also, make sure it is properly supported as moisture has to get out asap! this is the key really. It might be full of water, make sure it is not obstructed

The walls, cracks and crevices are where mold will grow, so a circulation fan in conjunction with the vent fan is a good idea. The home will need a source of fresh air or circulating it in the living space works, but is worse. Your best bet is to get it out of the house. A fresh source, (even opening a window a crack will suffice).
After the shower, wipe the walls down, keep the vent fan running for a while. you can install a timer too to control it and not have it run 24/7 (although that might be what you will need).
The sooner you keep the surface dry, the mold wont grow.


When converting a pool to salt water, should the pool lights be replaced?

The key to any pool regardless of sanitization or oxidation method used is to keep the water balanced.  This means keeping pH, total alkalinity, hardness and total dissolved solids in-check.  If the water is not balanced then you will overtime do damage to your pool and equipment regardless.  Well balanced water should not be corrosive.  There are lots of other metal parts in your pool other than your lights - ladders, heat exchanger (in a gas heater), etc.

Your lights should already be sealed, if they were not, you would be losing water through your lights.


Easiest & NEC 2011 compliant way run wire into attic?

Replace the elbow-piece -- it's really a type of conduit body called a LB (L for elbow, B for out the back) -- with a box and make the connections to the new wiring there.  You may have to pull a new stub-length of THHN to the existing receptacles to get enough slack in the box on the existing incoming wires to make the junction.

As to the new run -- I'd use two lengths of conduit for the exposed run: one from the tap box to a box mid-span that serves as a tap point (I'd use a T body, but there's not enough space for it unless the conduit run is offset sideways from the switch location anyway) and the other from the upper box (it can be a handy-box as the box fill's minimal) to the attic, then use a nipple to stub off from the back of said handy-box to the box with the switch in it (which'll need to be capable of taking a conduit).  A one-gang box should be more than adequate for the switch box, by the way.  The wire would be THHN to match the existing circuit gauge, in standard colors (black/white) of course, with only hot (black) wires run to the switch location from the tap box behind it.


How to determine what caused this crack on the wall?

Cracks are almost always caused by shifting, vibrations or impacts.  Cracks in walls that are perfectly straight usually follow a seam where two pieces of drywall meet.  If the crack is just in the paint or the drywall then its unlikely itself to be a structural problem though there might be a more serious underlying problem.

Assuming it is drywall here, repairing it is the same as any other drywall repair - mud, sand, paint.


how does temperature influence spray paint usage?

10 C or 50 F is not the optimal temp for aerosol spray painting, but should be OK. Most manufacturers recommend 60 F or above, but I wouldn't worry too much. The product will spray fine, the dry time may be a bit longer but it will dry fine. Try to get the painted pieces indoors to a warmer area as soon as they can be handled, and your paint will cure properly.  Good Luck.


How to attach ledger board to under-roof siding?

Since the new rafter section will cover any siding you may remove, layout how far the rafter section covers the siding and cut it about a 1/4 to a 1/2" lower. This will let you find the framing pretty easily, even remove a little subsiding to confirm, careful how deep you set your saw. This will show any conditions you may need to attend to. Set the bottom of the ledger at the on a chalk line set at the level you predetermined before you cut the siding. Set a ledger at the top of the rafter section as well to control rotation of the new section. This is an expansion on what Comintern suggested with his ledger and joist hanger idea, make sure the joist hangers approved for your framing condition.

Here is a little sketch to help illustrate. Doing it this way will allow a finished ceiling to go uninterrupted to the existing wall.


Why do insulated screwdrivers have a maximum voltage that they're rated for?

Wrong.
At some point, any insulation will break down and either begin to conduct or simply flash over.
From Wikipedia:

  Electrical breakdown or dielectric breakdown is when current flows
  through an electrical insulator when the voltage applied across it
  exceeds the breakdown voltage. This results in the insulator becoming
  electrically conductive. Electrical breakdown may be a momentary event
  (as in an electrostatic discharge), or may lead to a continuous arc if
  protective devices fail to interrupt the current in a power circuit.

  Under sufficient electrical stress, electrical breakdown can occur
  within solids, liquids, gases or vacuum. However, the specific
  breakdown mechanisms are different for each kind of dielectric medium.

So, respect the rating on your 'insulated' screwdrivers.