can i stick 6ga wire directly in earth instead of using grounding rod?

"Buried wire ground" is possible, but that's a ground ring "not smaller than 2AWG, at least 20 feet long" buried 30 inches or more deep around the building.
If you are building the building, providing a concrete encased electrode (usually an electrical connection to the reinforcing steel) as part of the building footings is inexpensive and very effective.
You can stick your 6Ga wire a couple of feet in the ground and clamp it to a ground rod driven from the bottom of the hole (which makes it more effective) but no, you can't just stick a 6Ga wire in the ground and call it a day. If this is your only grounding conductor, you should extend a trench so that you can drive a second grounding rod a minimum of 6 feet (more is fine) from the first rod (it's far less expensive than doing the measurement with the fancy equipment you won't have to determine if one ground rod is adequate.)
You may also need to protect the grounding wire with conduit where it is "exposed to damage" aboveground.


Garage ceiling fan / light - changing switch

The old smart switch is not capable of controlling a fan and light separately... and you never claimed it did.  That means your 3 cables are

Supply (always-hot)
Onward (always-hot) power to something else
(Switched-hot) power to the fan/light

First, all grounds get nutted together with a pigtail that you'll need to buy, and get pushed into the back of the box (except the pigtail, bring that out!)

Second, all white wires get nutted together and pushed into the back of the box.  These are neutral.  You don't need a pigtail here; dumb switches don't use neutral.

Third, that switch goes into the trash.  Get a plain single switch.

Fourth, The ground pigtail goes to this switch's ground terminal.

Fifth, get a black pigtail and attach it to one of the screws on the switch.  This gets wire-nutted together with the black wire you are fairly sure is supply hot.  Feel free to wire-nut this very lightly, you'll be adding to it later.   These two wires are called always-hot.

Sixth, pick an unattached black wire.  Attach it to the remaining screw on the switch.  We are guessing here.

Seventh, power up the circuit and see if the fan/light is starting to work.  If both work, awesome, you have identified switched-hot for both light and fan... go to step 8.   If neither one works, repeat step 6-7 with the other unattached wire.   If only one of them works, power down and repeat step 6-7 with the other unattached black wire.

  If one wire works the fan and the other works the light, then you've made a monkey out of me.  Fish that double switch out of the trash and follow somebody else's instructions.

If both of them work with one wire attached, then my advice stands.  Leave that wire attached and step 7 is done.

Eighth, take the remaining black wire and attach it to the black wires under the wire-nut.  This time, crank it down gorilla-tight.

For bonus points, identify the light+fan wire and mark it with red tape.   Or if they are separately controlled, mark the fan with red tape and the light with blue tape.  You'll thank me later.  If you had color coded these wires at the very start of this, life would've been much easier.  Colored tape is your friend.


The only way to do this would be to go in the attic. The basement 3-way has the neutral you need and the 3-way at the top of the stairs has the hot connection to the light. You need both wires to make your additional light work and those are only available at the existing light fixture. There's different types of steel raceway that can be surface mounted on the ceiling but doing that on stairs would be more dangerous than going into the attic. Maybe it's time to train a young apprentice.


Wiring for kitchen remodel - appliances, electric oven/microwave combo, fridge, 2 dishwashers

Upgrade that tiny sub-panel. For under $200 you should be able to get a 30-space Eaton panel that will let you re-use all the breakers in your existing 8-space Eaton panel, plus wire and sub-feed lugs for your Siemens main panel. Speaking of which, that BR240 breaker in your main panel that feeds the pictured sub-panel is an alien - it does not belong in there. It may seem to fit, but bus stabs and breaker jaws have subtly different shapes and mixing incompatible types can lead to arcing and bus damage. If you keep the sub-panel as is, you need to replace that with a QP240.
Note, if you replace your sub-panel with a bigger Eaton unit, you can recycle that BR240 by moving it into the sub-panel and use it to feed the new oven.


Cable Modem Placement: Longer Ethernet/Shorter Coax vs Shorter Ethernet/Longer Coax

I think your configuration (despite the apparent confusion in some earlier comments) is: coax to cable modem, then CAT6 from cable modem to a router, then CAT6 from router to point of use.

RG6 coax, which is used by CATV systems, has an attenuation of ~ 6dB per 100ft (@ 1000MHz). CAT6 has an attenuation of about 9dB per 100ft (@ 200MHz). All other things being equal, coax will suffer less attenuation of relevant signals.

However, the signal strength margin (how much stronger than the minimum acceptable input for your cable modem) your CATV signal has when it enters your house is unknown, and could conceivably be just enough for your present 50 ft coax run, so that adding an additional 30ft to it could push your cable modem "over the edge". The Ethernet signal is starting at a known strength coming out of your router, and has enough margin to travel 100m (as long as you use good quality CAT6 and connector terminations), so the 40-50 ft you need is well within published expectations.

All said, I think Option 1 is slightly lower risk. but make sure your Ethernet cable, patch panel, and connectors are high quality, or you may compromise the published 100m range dramatically.


Shading windows from outside (awnings, shutters, etc) to keep house from overheating in summer

Down here in Texas, solar screens are the thing to have. They're simply black mesh panels that install over the outside of the entire window, and in addition to being basic bug and safety screens, they reduce the amount of sunlight coming in to the window. You can still see out very well, so unless this is a big all-glass window wall (in which case I'd use tinting film similar to car windows) it's the thing to use.

Insulating, light-blocking curtains are another way to reduce solar gain. Yes they're inside, but they still work. Only problem is that you can't see through them.


Troubleshooting Four Fluorescent Light Fixtures

Try removing the tubes that are not working and carefully replacing them to ensure good contact.  On some fixtures neither tube will light up if one tube in not getting good contact.


You're reducing the vent size by 40%. That will have a negative impact of the air flow in that room. It could also increase the sound level of the air leaving the smaller vent due to the increased pressure due to the smaller vent. I'd try to get a vent and duct closer to the original size.


How can I plug my 3 prong dryer into a 4 prong receptacle?

You'll simply have to purchase a 4 prong dryer cord, which can be found at any local hardware store or big box store.

Then follow the dryer manufacturers installation instructions for connecting a 4 prong plug.
Most dryers will be wired similarly to the one described in this answer, though it could vary a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer.


Installing sheathing with Staples or Ring Shank?

The Code (ICC Code Table 2304.9.1) requires for either 5/8” or 3/4” structural panels (plywood) or particleboard (OSB board) for roofs, floors or walls use either:

8d common at 6” oc at edges and 12” in field.
6d deformed at 6” oc at edges and 12” in field.
2 3/8” x 0.113” nail at 4” oc at edges and 8” in field.
2” x 16 gage staple with 7/16” crown at 4” oc at edges and 8” in field.

For 3/8” or 1/2” structural panels or particle board use either:

A. 6d common or deformed: 6/12 oc

B. 8d box or deformed: 6/12 oc

C. Wall: 2 3/8” x 0.113” nail: 6/12” oc

D. Wall: 1 3/16 x 16 gage staple with 7/16  crown: 4/8” oc

Be careful how far you span on the roof with 5/8” OSB board. In certain heavy snow areas it could sag when spanning 24” on center.


How do I use existing cat5e wiring to distribute internet in my house?

Ho Le Crap! most of the pics you are showing involved phone service, not in house Ethernet / LAN. Your 6 pin connectors are for RJ16 jacks/plugs (3 line phone service).  RJ45 requires 8 conductors and an 8 pin jack/plug. cat5e or cat6 can be terminated on a patch panel, but not a punch down block ("A" in your pics).

It can be pretty simple:  Connect all the cat5e cables to a patch panel and then choose which ones go to a router/switch.  Alternatively, you could simply  not use a patch panel and just install plugs on the ends of the cat5e cables and plug them into a router or switch.

Bottom line:  You need to separate your Internet (coming over POTS - Plain Old Telephone Service) from your Ethernet connections.


Very interesting issue - Hot water not coming out

The cold water could have a higher pressure, and if a backflow preventer is defect, the cold water will enter the hot water tubes. Thermostatic faucets are prone for that failure. See also
Hot water turning cold in pipe at branch line


Can I build a pergola on an existing deck, without digging more footers?

This is quickly going to become too complicated to tell you for sure if your deck will be able to support a structure like a pergola, but if it is even half the weight of your typical hot tub then your deck will very likely not support it.

To accurately determine this you need to figure out the additional #'s/sq ft of load that a structure as large as a pergola will place on top of the deck.  Doing this is simple with something like a spa where you have a clear square footage area and a relatively even weight  distribution when filled with water and people.  This is not so easy to determine with a structure where certain points of the structure are going to carry the weight of the structure differently.  The weight is not as evenly disbursed.

Right off the bat there I would advise you to consult an engineer with your structure plans to determine if this is feasible and safe.  This is completely disregarding the fact that your deck is only as strong as its weakest point.  If your house is brick and your ledger board is attached with carriage bolts then even if the joists were on 12" centers then you are still likely putting entirely too much stress on the ledger board.  You also could have a lot of problems if any part of your structure is going to sit over that 2' overhang.

In the end, an experienced engineer will probably be able to confirm pretty easily if this will be feasible or not.


is this Asbestos? or anything dangerous?

I've never seen asbestos wrapped pipes that look like that before. In my experience asbestos typically is a little more like a "plaster wrap". I would agree with the others who said that if you really need to know get it checked, but from the images it looks to be fiberglass or rock wool. Test kits aren't terribly expensive nor difficult - if you are truly worried run the test.


Will 300 watts of electricity ruin a 288Watt LED light bar

If the light bar is designed to run on 12V of electricity, you won't harm anything by running it at 12V (if it's designed for use in a car, it will run on 13.8V without harm, since that's the nominal voltage of the car's electrical system when the car is running - most devices designed for automotive use will run fine from around 12V to around 15V).

The 10 - 30 VDC rating if your Lightbar means it will operate normally at any voltage from 10V - 30V, and it will only use as much current as it needs, it won't suck up all 30A of current from your power supply. Another way to look at it: a car battery is capable of putting out hundreds of amps of peak current, so if the device worked the way you think it does, as soon as you hook it up in a car, it would suck down as much current as the wiring and battery would allow -- possibly thousands of watts.

If you were building your own light bar out of discrete LED's (or something like a an LED light strip) rather than using this device that's already designed for 12V use, then you would need to be concerned with current draw. LED's are "constant current" devices, they normally need a special LED driver that will limit the current to the LED to the correct range and if you hooked a typical LED to your 12V power supply, it would try to use as much current as your power supply can provide until something burns up (most likely, the LED would).

But in your case since your Lightbar is rated for automotive use, you can safely plug it into a 12V power supply without worry.


What could cause the hot water not to work after replacing a water heater?

First step is to assure all valves are open, including the main supply valve. Do you have cold water at faucets?

Second check would be to open the bottom drain on the water heater to see if any water has entered the tank.  This will tell us if water is reaching the tank or stopping at the tank.

Do you hear any air passing at the faucets when you turn them on?

Are the connections threaded or solder? Not that makes a lot of difference, but will make it easier to trouble shoot if they are threaded and need to be removed.

When you installed the heater, did you remove all the plastic pipe plugs that are installed for shipping?


Washing Machine Fills with water, then drains

Also check the water fill hose. Some of them have a screen to trap particles. If the screen is dirty, it will slow the water flow as well causing the machine to "time out"  and go directly to drain.


How can one detect how many coats of paint are used in a newly built house .

Crappy/crumbly paint is usually thin as well... and 2 coats thereof may (and often do) not cover or resist well. So it doesn't really matter how many coats are in the contract if the paint (or layer thickness) is not specified therein.

(Illustration from the previously linked article.)

Most industry tools/methods (destructive or non-destructive) can only measure total paint thickness, not count layers. The most reliable way to inspect/count/measure individual layers is a destructive method using a PIG (paint inspection gauge) using the ASTM D4138-07a method. The gauge cuts a v-groove that is examined using a built-in microscope, which looks like this:

(Image from tcq.eu.)

It takes considerable operator experience to distinguish layers of the same paint though... so if you're looking to sue or force them to repaint, better hire an expert to do this determination for you.

I've sanded a few things (to repaint) myself, and some of these had 3-4 different paints that were easy to distinguish while the sanding was going on; basically you get a much, much wider V-cut at the sanding edge... but I could never tell with the naked eye how many layers of each paint might have been there (and had no reason to get microscope).


How can I fill a screw hole so it can be used again?

If you are lacking a wooden peg or the skills to make one use round wooden toothpicks. Coat the toothpicks with woodglue. Place as many toothpicks in the hole as will fit. Gently tap in one more with a hammer. Break off any bits of toothpick that protrude from the hole. After the glue has dried, reinstall the screw.


What to do about a tile floor that with globs of thinset

I've never seen tile installed this way. I've seen installers glob it down, but then trowel it out. Tile needs to be installed on a flat, sound surface or  it will "bend" and will break or loosen over time. what type of guarantees did you get from them? I'd put them on notice and get them out there when the next tile pops off.


building garage what is proper way to frame an 8 ft garage door

I assume you are wondering what size header to use for the framing and how to support that header.  You should: consult your local building department they can tell you.
The old rule of thumb is 1" height of header for every foot of width.  With an 8 foot span you should use double studs (jack studs) on each side to support it.
So - for a 8' span with 2x4 framing a 4x8 header is minimum but my experience is a 4x10 with a nominal dimension of 3.5 x 9.24 is the smallest size header I would use.  These days, contractors use 4x12s for most headers up to 12 in width.


How can I remove cured tile mortar from subfloor?

Tile mortar is actually fairly soft. If you have access to a belt sander, take a coarse grit to it. Otherwise, scrape at it with a robust flat tool like a cold chisel.


Toilet flushes slowly, water comes all the way up, then water goes low, shower drains slow, but sink is fine

I would be running a snake down the main line from the toilet, depending on the plumbing the sink could be downstream from the plug. Normally the toilet location is where the vent connects so if it backs up the vent line can be flooded . Running from the toilet is usually the easiest access and only cost a wax seal.  A plunger knocking it loose sounds like a better case for a big snake so you can pull the clog out instead of have it move it around.


Those are spotlight type fixtures, so that's a "feature" of the design. Not that you can't disagree with whatever designer put them in.

Replacing the bulb would probably be the most effective (and safe - those fixtures can get very hot, and putting a "filter" over them will probably increase the heat, possibly to an unsafe level.) I do see that there is a thing sold to fit over the bulb as a "soft focus lens", but I'd be wary of the heat.

If looking at entire replacement fixtures, you've probably got nominal "4 inch" (size of the hole in the ceiling) fixtures. Depending what you've got going on for LED subsidies in your area, you may be able to find a complete LED replacement fixture for not much more than a replacement bulb, and it might be "less harsh" (that's something of a personal taste call - go look at what's available to you.) If you use the lights much, you may also save a good deal on electricity by doing that.

The bulb in there now is one of the standard halogens - I think it's an "MR16" - you'd look for what you can find to fit in an LED replacement, but they are often made to "mimic" the halogen lights as much as possible (so they will probably be harsh.) Some, however, do claim (and appear) to be more diffuse.


Can I use normal metal electrical box for outdoor low voltage installation?

Only code problem is the UL listing. I am pretty sure those are indoor rated only and not even for damp locations.

Also, unless protected from rain, it would be considered a wet location, not damp.


Why did my miter/table saw stop cutting?

Most of these power tools use a type of commutator motor called a universal series motor. Current passes through the windings on the rotor, called an armature, through brushes that run on the commutator which is made up of a number of segments, usually 12-35 or so, arranged in a cylinder. Between each of the segments is one winding that runs in two slots of the armature core, and then there are a number of these windings in series between the brushes at any one time. As the armature spins, commutator segments pass under the brushes and the windings connected to that segment reverse their current direction as they pass under the next field pole to keep the torque they produce all in the same direction.

What can happen is that some of the windings can break, typically near the connection to the commutator, and leave a series of winding sections that are not connected to the other sections. While those sections pass under the brushes, they produce torque, and though it's not a continuous torque, it's enough to keep the motor turning. When the motor stops, it's a matter of chance as to where those breaks in the circuit are relative to the brushes, so it may just jerk into an unenergized position, or do nothing, but manually rotating the armature to a different position may make it start.
   You can usually see when this happens, in that the sparking at the brushes, visible through the vents at the back of the motor, gets significantly worse than normal.

Unfortunately, these winding faults aren't easy to repair, and usually requires a new armature, which then will likely need to be pressed into a bearing, though some service parts come with the bearing already attached, to be fitted into the housing with a retainer plate or C clip.


Can I connect a normal 12 Volt 150AH C10 battery with a solar 12 volt 150AH C20 battery in series for my 24Volt solar system

Can you - yes. Is it a good idea - no.
A 150AH @ C10 and 150AH @ C20 battery are not the same "size" because one is rated at the 10-hour discharge rate and the other is rated at the 20 hour discharge rate.
Since you have not specified some other chemistry, I'm assuming both are lead-acid 12V batteries, as the majority of 12V batteries are.
If by "normal" you mean "automobile starting" battery, that one may have short life due to construction optimized for a very different service than a deep cycle (or "solar") battery. On the other hand, by pairing them you are limited to the solar battery's discharge rate if you want to get rated capacity (150AH @ 20hr - 7.5 A - at 24V about 180 Watts before inverter losses, perhaps 150 Watts after inverter losses.)
If that seems like a very low power output, welcome to the ugly realities of solar power, where almost everyone starting out undersizes their battery bank until they have the expensive lesson that it costs a lot to be cheap.


Adding NM cable into side hole on service panel, code securing?

The simplest thing is probably to attach a 1x6 flat to the block wall on either side of the panel as a cleat for staples.  That will let you keep it tidy without too much work or expense.


If the bottom of the jamb is loose, shim behind it and fasten with a long screw. (Use the gap of the door to set the amount of shimming. If the screw draws the jamb in too much, back the screw out and push the shims in further.)

Then, get a chunk of wood matching the jamb. I'm guessing 4-1/2" x 3/4" thick, by a few inches tall. Cut the new piece approximately to size. Don't kill yourself getting it perfect, because you'll use wood filler to cover any gap. Shim the stud behind to leave about a 1" gap. (In other words, make it so your replacement piece is set back 1/4" from the existing jamb when you put it in place.)

Make a series of thick (1/4" or so) beads of polyurethane construction adhesive (Loctite PL Premium 10 fl. oz. Polyurethane Construction Adhesive is fairly thick and would be suitable. Most of the "liquid nails" I've used are too runny) and press your replacement piece into the glue. Get it level with the existing jamb and let the glue set. Check the reveal when the door is closed. (Stick some business cards in to maintain the gap if it's a bit tight.) A day hence, start the process of filling the gap (just about any wood filler will do) and caulking the edges where the new piece meets the casing.

If you had to have the stop going to the floor, a chunk of that could be nailed on, but I probably wouldn't bother.

Cautionary note about the PL glue... don't get it on your hands or the adjoining carpet. If you get squeeze-out when you're putting your new piece in, just let it dry and cut it later with a utility knife.


What is "gauge" size for door hinge knuckles?

The gauge is a measure of the thickness of the hinge metal.

 source: Stanley 5 Knuckle Ball Bearing Hinges

This would affect the size of the knuckle as it wraps around the hinge pin.

size of knuckle = (hinge gauge x 2) + hinge pin diameter (+ a bit to allow for clearance)

Heavy weight gauges increase available bearing surface area. It will also determine the depth of the cut-out recess(es) in the door/door frame necessary for a flush installation.

The gauge also determines the type of 'hinge tweaker' tool you need.

       Hinge Tweaker Heavy Weight Size for .180 Gauge Hinges

You need a more robust tool with a wider 'mouth' to 'tweak' .180 Gauge Hinges than .123 Gauge Hinges


Weird breaker panel splice 200amp service to 125amp?

I can’t see the gauge or type of wire in the wire coming in or to the breaker.

If the splice is a compression listed for copper / aluminum this may be what they did to extend the wiring with the feeder being aluminum (possibly).

I do not like panels being put in with the main at the bottom , there was no reason for it in this case.  If the wire is sized correctly this could be totally legit because the main breaker is the protection for the system.

If the feed is copper and just downsized for the 125 a standard crimp would be ok but if aluminum to copper I would want to verify a listed crimp or bolt and deox or anti oxide compound was used If my home.  Oregon and Washington have slightly different codes but use the NEC for services so without some other issue  the 200 amp permit means whoever did this was Penny wise pound foolish as a 200 amp panel would have only costed a few dollars more.


How to convert eaton type BRD to type BR and is this a good idea?

First, make sure you are searching broadly. Many homeowners get stuck in the "big box store" rut and search only Lowes, Home Depot and Menards... failing to realize that family-owned lumber supplies, electrical supply houses, and hardware stores all sell breakers.
Look at your bus stab for notches. Or, Plug-on Neutral.
You cannot put tandem breakers anywhere except where it's allowed by the panel labeling.  Fitting them where they aren't allowed generally means putting more breakers in the panel than it was designed, tested or approved for.
It is common for Eaton's label to not specify which spaces are allowed (some diagrams don't even correspond to the panel)... in those cases, they instruct you to look at the bus stab: a solid/square bus stab does not allow tandems/quadplexes, however, a notched bus stab does.
The reason is CTL, or Circuit Total Limiting.  This was a NEC and UL requirement from 1966 to, I want to say, 2014 or 2017.  CTL panels have notches in their bus stabs where tandems/quadplexes are allowed.  CTL panels also have labeling indicating that you must use "CTL" breakers such as BD, BQ, or BQC.
Of course there were some pre-1966 BR panels still out in the field, which were entitled to use double-stuff breakers, but did not have stab notches.  To support these panels only, Eaton continues to make the "BRD" breakers - however it is a Code violation to fit a BRD breaker in a CTL panel, because that would let you defeat the CTL limitations.
NEC recently dropped CTL as a requirement.  That does NOT give you a free ride on any existing CTL panels; they have not been tested by UL for, and have not been approved for, double-stuffs in any space. Keep in mind that panel makers did not immediately change their designs and immediately get UL approval: so CTL still applies to older designs bought today.
However, if you buy a new design panel which has been UL-certified to be non-CTL, then you can (as always) use any breaker listed in the panel's labeling.  ThreePhaseEel, who knows 10 times more about panels than I pretend to know, says that all Eaton "Plug-on Neutral" designs are post-CTL and are approved for double-stuffs in any space, including BRD type.
All that to say... if you have a CTL panel and the breaker space is allowed to use a BD breaker...  I don't see a problem with temporarily using a BRD breaker.  You'll need to correct it before next inspection (typically at house sale time).  And make sure no maintainer moves it into a non-tandem space.  It's a violation but a statutory one.


Should a board connecting a beam in the attic to a rafter be removed?

The 2×4 in question may be to support the beam itself from twisting, it looks like all the hangers are on 1 side so I would keep it there, not sure of the span I usually use 4"x  beams not 2"x or at least doubled 2x.


Furnace control board - interchangeable?

It turns out they're not compatible -- the one I need is for one-stage, and the other one is for two-stage.


Is it possible to mount a countertop microwave under a cabinet?

There are 2 issues here:

1) Top clearance. Countertop ovens usually have vents on top and the manual states the minimum clearances - from top, back and sides. Countertops generally need space around them.

2) The physical mount. You're showing a floating shelf bracket, but there is no shelf. Countertop appliances have wide-spaced legs and they are designed to stand on those legs to be stable. If you plan to put it on the bare bracket, that's not a good idea. First, it won't be stable enough and could tip to the side and slide away. Second, "the belly" may be just a heatshield and only the legs are structurally strong enough to hold the weight of the oven. Third, bottoms of countertops are usually exceptionally ugly and you're exposing it to anyone who bends over.

I believe you should just build a dedicated shelf for the oven. Take the minimum distances into account. Make it at least as big as the legs. Add small side fences or mount rings into which the legs will sit to prevent the oven from being easily knocked off it.


Is there a high temperature glue that I can use on a cook top?

A silicon based glue should be able to withstand these temperatures. Makes sure to verify the max temp on the package. Silicon glue


Your odds of success are about 1% unless the wire in in conduit, and it almost certainly isn't.

Generally, wires in walls are stapled to the framing. Perhaps your thermostat wire isn't, and then you might have a chance, if it's a straight shot. If there are staples or the wire goes around corners, you probably won't be able to pull the old wire out, and if you do manage that, the point where the new wire is connected to the pulling wire will not be happy about going through staples or around corners.


Replaced my first power cord. Will I set the house on fire?

we don’t really know but if you have turned it on and it works without arcs and sparks. Then if you touch it you don’t get shocked you probably did a good job.  Well now I see the first photo of the connections it looks a little short on the wrap around the screws I think the code book has an example of 66-75% wrap NEC exhibit 110.3 its for aluminum wire but copper should follow the same rules 2/3-3/4 wrap. I would not be afraid of using this but might try to get the wires a bit tighter around the screws but good first job.
You left the normal electricians mess according to my wife , When I was an apprentice my training supervisor said don’t wast your high dollar time picking up wire that’s for the clean up guy. But I try depending on the job,
Note I find with stranded wire a pre twist of counter clockwise helps keep it tighter.


No power at outlets and lights, no bad breakers

Are all the outlets / lights on 1 circuit, If so find the last working device from the panel or the First non working device, I find back stabs are the cause for this type of problem in the high 90%. In this case the failed junction may be at a light switch where the outlet is also powered via a splice before the switch, the other possibility would be where a outlet feeds the switches. As I said at the start most times I find this problem it is from a failed back stabs in a 15 amp circuit. I have found both 15 & 20 amp circuits that have had a loose wire nut or a broken wire usually right at the point where the wire was stripped. These are the main failures I have found over many years with daisy chained circuits.


Voltage fluctuations and GFCI tripping drivng me crazy

A faulty shared neutral can do exactly that.


Should I have multiple cable runs for a room, or just one?

I doubt most buyers will even notice or care if it was pointed out to them.  Today, everyone uses a cordless telephone, wifi for networking, and any cables are just run around the baseboard.  And I say this as a geek that ran conduit through the walls when I redid my basement.  Speaking of which, if you ever remodel (or build) something you plan to stay in, run conduit through the walls.

The key point you need to keep in mind is that it should be possible to get to a majority of the walls along the baseboard from your wall jacks without passing a door or closet.  If a large wall could be used for a TV but requires running the wire over the door, then I'd put a second jack on that side.

My guess for apartment owners is that two jacks results in less wires over carpets or nails holding wires everywhere, so they do this more to reduce damage than to make your life easier.


Should galvanized steel pipe be used as a tub spout?

I remove galvanized pipe whenever possible.  A brass nipple will be a much longer term connection, due to much lower reactivity to water caused corrosion.

However, if the plumbing elsewhere is galvanized, it may only be a symbolic gesture.


In a bathroom, do baseboards need to be caulked to prevent water seepage?

Caulk it.  I wouldn't leave a gap.  I'd tape the floor and apply caulk.  People clog toilets and flood bathroom floors.  I use PVC baseboards in bathroom since they are water resistant.  MDF is horrible for water but if you caulk it and have it well painted it is possible it holds up to a few water incidents.


How do I replace a leaky secondary water valve?

Without seeing the actual valve type and piping arrangement it will be very difficult for anyone to tell you what you are in for.

One thing I know for sure: step #1 is digging it up! Once it is exposed you (and our on-line community) will have a much better idea of needed repair work, if you add pictures to your post.

Questions:
1) Is it a continual leak that keeps the area flooded like in the picture? If so, you will need to effect a positive shut off upstream and let the water soak in or dry up before excavating. You will likely need to do this anyway to proceed with the repair or replacement.

Judging by the type of handle I see in your picture, I suspect it might be a valve like this:

If it is a brass valve like this, they are usually fairly simple to repair. replacement is not always as easy.


How do I determine if my chimney draft is correct?

Two months later I finally found the right search string to get an better answer than 'light a stick on fire'.

Whenever preforming a test for safety, you always want to choose a worst case senator.

According to this page, worst case chimney draft conditions happen when the house is fully sealed and all exhausting appliances are activated. Thus one needs to:

Shut all windows and doors
Turn on all bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans
Turn run all appliances that exhaust such as dryers and central vaccumes

The source fails to mention whether or not to fire up other flue based heating sources.  However my intuition tells me that heating devices that don't share the same flue as the test should be fired up, but ones that are common to the device being tested should be left off because the added heat might add to the updraft)

Similarly, the source fails to mention what the temperature differential should be between the inside of the house and the outside should be as there will clearly be more of an updraft when the air inside the home is warm, and the outside is very cold. For a furnace / heating stove, this likely won't matter as you'll always be operating under ideal conditions. However with a water heater, you may run into the case where you have a high outside temperature, AC chilled ducting, and short heater run times such that the flu never gets hot enough to create an updraft. This would be your worst case, attempts to run your test when conditions most closely mirror this situation would be preferred, but may make less of a difference than the other items listed above.

According to the reference, once you've sealed your house and started up all venting appliances, your can simply tur on the appliance you want to check for several minutes then cup your hands around the fume hood without touching it and feel the air draft.  However, the manuals for professional  draft testing equipment say that their tests should be preformed within the first 60 seconds after igniting your appliance.  Thus it seems the best next step would be to:

Light a long match stick or dense cardboard strip (like a pizza box) and then blow it out so it smolders and smokes
Turn on your appliance and place your smoke stick near the vent hood.
If the smoke goes up the hood, your vent passes
If the smoke appears to be being blown into the house, the you have a down draft, and should repair it (especially if the down draft persists after your device has been on for several minutes).


4awg Al on ground bar with 6awg max holes

If I have an issue I add a chair lug and screw it directly to the buss, years ago we used to split the wires into 2 equal groups but I think they quit allowing that back in 99 maybe prior, I usually carry a few single and double lug chair Lugs with my crimps ( I carry probably 50 lbs of different sized crimps) just for this reason. I do agree with George noalox or another corrosion inhibitor is needed with aluminum wire connections (I use it on all my feeders even copper).


I think the first step is to clear up the terms you are using.  There are "rotary hammers" and there are "hammer drills".  You are combining the two, causing some confusion.

In general, if a product is called a hammer drill, it will have (to simplify) a pair of ridged disks inside it that rub together and cause the bit to move in and out a little when the drill rotates.   This hammer drill will have a high "beats per minute" and has a characteristic sound almost like slowly rubbing a coarse file with a nail.

A rotary hammer is normally larger and the in and out motion of the bit is performed by a pneumatic piston.  They are more powerful and also absorb shock more for the user so can be used for longer periods.  They also will typically have the ability to use the hammer without the bit rotating (which is not possible on a hammer drill).

So to answer your last question, if it is called a hammer drill, it uses mechanical percussion, and if it's called a rotary hammer it uses a piston.  I guess a manufacturer could use the wrong term and at that point you would need to look at the manual or a parts diagram. This article from Popular Mechanics actually mentions a drill that is marketed as a hammer drill but is designed like a rotary hammer (the Rockwell).


Google really did not want to help, because any such queries were glutted by travel adapters with all the different socket codes (A through J). Americans may note those cover only US NEMA 1 and 5, and don't cover NEMA 7, 15, L5, 23 and many others intended for heavy-duty use.

That is the situation here.  This socket is for heavy-duty loads.

It is not terribly unlike those pictured here in pictures 17-20.  This one has a different keying, so is for a different phase relationship or perhaps different current/fusing.


What sort of wire should I use to run an overhead line to a subpanel?

You'll need more than 12' of pole and mast for a 12' clearance

The NEC requirement for wires over residential property at less than 300V to ground is a 12' clearance to the ground from the wire's lowest point.  This means you'll need taller poles than 12' to get the wire up high enough.  How much taller? Well, you'll have to consult a sag and tension chart for the cable you're running to determine how much extra pole height you need to meet that 12' mark, or run the calculations yourself (see PDF pages 33-35 of this Southwire install manual for details).

(As a FYI: I was able to get workable tensions in a Hackney/XLP (4AWG Al, quadruplex, XLPE insulation) for a 125' span with 42" of worst case sag, which would mean that you could make the run point-to-point (no intermediate poles) with 16' masts if the path was not obstructed, and still have a few inches of clearance margin left over.)

You may need more clearance yet still

Depending on how your property is categorized by the AHJ, it may be considered logging or farmland rather than residential property, which boosts the NEC clearance requirement for overhead lines to 18' from 12'.  (Basically, it depends on whether the AHJ expects trucks to be driving around on it or not.)

As to the cable itself...

What you are describing (your very own overhead cable run) is termed messenger supported wiring in the NEC, and can be done using a separate messenger and field lashed/bridled cable (such as for a communications cable), or with a multiplex cable designed for overhead distribution service -- really, the same cables that are used for overhead utility service drops.

You will want a quadruplex cable in order to provide a full four-wire feeder -- these cables consist of two hots, an insulated neutral, and a bare ground/integral messenger.  Note that these cables also are generally only available with AA-1350/EC aluminum conductors, so you'll need Al9Cu insulated, outdoor/wet rated connectors (Burndy AGSKIT2 or equivalent) and an inch-pound torque wrench to terminate them properly.

Furthermore, there is no such thing as 8AWG quadruplex cable -- the smallest size it comes in is 6AWG, and since you're feeding a dwelling unit, I'd recommend a 4AWG aluminum/XLP quadruplex instead, which can handle a  100A feeder to the bunkhouse.  This is going to be less costly and time-consuming to handle than trying to wrangle a SE-cable alligator onto a separate messenger, and get you more ampacity for your money as well.

Terminations matter

Overhead cable runs like this one terminate at each end in a conduit mast and weatherhead, just like a service would.  I'd recommend 2" RMC masts -- these provide plenty of space for 2AWG aluminum or 3AWG copper XHHW-2 conductors in the masts for the hots and neutral, and also provide the grounding conductor as well as upgrade space to allow 200A to be provisioned without replacing the masts and poles, just the cabling.

The grounding conductor connections between the messenger wire and the masts at each will need to be made using a jumper (6AWG bare copper is fine), an Al9Cu split bolt, and an Al/Cu grounding clamp (Ilsco AGC-2 or equivalent) -- this setup may seem awkward, but it saves the need to pull a redundant ground wire through a metal mast.

You will also need to ensure that the masts are guyed properly, and that drip loops are provided at the cable ends so that water does not run down the cable and into the mast.

Other notes

You'll need to provide a structure disconnecting means (this can be a main breaker in the subpanel) and a grounding electrode system (given your rocky conditions, you may need to employ a concrete-encased, or "Ufer", grounding electrode -- check with your AHJ for details) at the bunkhouse.  You'll also need to ensure that the bonding screw or strap is removed from the panel in the bunkhouse, as neutral and ground are only allowed to meet at the main service entrance.

If you want to go underground...

This is where things get ugly.  Normally, I'd recommend Schedule 80 PVC, possibly with metal sweeps and stub-ups (you could even go to PVC coated GRC for these for such short lengths; if you don't, you definitely want to tape a metal stub-up due to oxic conditions in the first few inches of topsoil promoting corrosion), for a buried wiring run; however, your extreme soil conditions are not kind to the notion of needing a 21-22" deep trench to get 18" of cover.  Rigid metal conduit lets you get away with a much shallower trench, 9" deep for 6" of cover in your case, but galvanized conduit, while legal for burial, may not be the wisest thing to bury, depending on soil conditions.  Corrosion-wise, the best choice would be PVC-coated galvanized conduit, but it's a rather expensive beast for a 125' run, especially considering you'll want fat conduit for this job -- I would run 2" conduit, myself, as that leaves enough room for a future upgrade to 200A.  Given the cost of PVC-coated conduit, and the shallow trench depths, I would at least use a polymeric tape wrap designed for corrosionproofing over the conduit as it was being laid in the trench.

In any case, you'll definitely want to rent a mini-excavator with both bucket and breaker attachments for the trenching job -- the former is for digging up soil and broken-up rock, while you can use the latter to break up the limestone bedrock so you can dig it out.  Once the trenching and conduit are done, you'll want to pull 3 1AWG aluminum XHHW-2 conductors for your hots and neutral, and a bare or insulated 8AWG copper ground wire if you aren't using supplemental corrosionproofing on the conduit itself.


Does a cover exist for a 3.5 inch round electrical box?

Your problem is your supplier

There shouldn't be any trouble getting the cover you require.  However it's a rarely requested item, so Home Depot's central office has determined it's not worth the shelf space to stock.  You can take your chances with other big-box or hardware stores, but any competent electrical supply house has about a 90% chance of stocking it, having you out the door in 3 minutes, and be cheaper to boot.  (Home Depot charges gotcha pricing on anything that isn't a hot commodity).

Also you have 8 hots and neutrals splicing up here. All grounds together count as one wire. 14 AWG wire requires 2.00 cubic inches per "wire", so you need 18.0 cubic inches.  Make sure the box is at least that large (it should say on the inside) - if not, look for a 3.5" box extension to get you some more cubic inches. You'll definitely need an electrical supply for that!

If all else fails, put a pull-chain lamp socket there and don't use it for anything, but that will need 4 more cubic inches.


Is there any advantage of one of these types of switches over the other?

The one on the left is old, quite old, early 1960's to early 1970's I'd say. The one on the right is the new replacement for that old style breaker.

The replacement for the one on the left is a non-CTL BR1515. See the question/answer here: http://www.amazon.com/BR1515-Circuit-Breaker-Without-Rejection/forum/-/-/1?_encoding=UTF8&asin=B002YF912M


Adding FAN feature to oil furnace from thermostat

To answer the first question, YES. I have lived in my house for 18 years and the furnace fan has run for 18 years continuously. For the 2nd question, yes: attach the green wire to the thermostats G terminal, use it to power a relay coil (24 volts), and wire the contacts of the relay as you stated. Check all wiring before turning the power back on.


Finding one power wire to two lite switches. ugh!

I think I know what's going on here, the solution is simple if the situation is as I understand it. I'll go over it again as confirmation.

The butchered wire should be the unswitched power from source that continues through the two switches, one for each light in turn, then on to the lights, then return via neutral. If you're in North America and the usual color codes were followed, this wire should be black. (Neutrals are white)  The original configuration had a short length of insulation stripped from the end and attached to a switch (closet?). A few inches away, the same wire had a length of insulation stripped, but with insulation left in between the stripped portions. The copper wire itself remained continuous, the non-end bare portion looped partly around the binding screw of the other switch (bathroom?). See sketch below "Original". Only the pertinent wiring is shown, all other wiring omitted for clarity.

You then taped up the inner stripped portion and reinstalled the wire end to one switch, leaving the other without power. Correct?

If so, this is a somewhat common bad practice, mainly because the unbroken partial loop cannot be properly bound to the terminal. The fix is easy. You need a wire nut sized for 3 conductors of whatever wire gauge is used (usually #12 or #14 AWG) and two short lengths of the same gauge black insulated solid copper wire.

Remove your taped patch and cut the wire so that the entire wire is completely insulated except for the final 5/8"-3/4" which remains bare. (See sketch "Cut") Attach this and the two short pieces (ends stripped in similar fashion) with the wire nut.

The other ends of the short pieces are attached, one per switch, to where the original wire was attached. (See sketch "New") There is a particular way to make binding screw connections which you may not see in the existing work. Do NOT make a simple U bend and hook it around the binding screw, you do not get adequate surface contact this way. (Sketch "NO!")

Instead, pre-bend the wire end into a nearly complete circle, so it is configured much like an eye bolt eye. (Sketch "Yes") Re-open the end gap just enough to slip the binding screw through. The loop must go clockwise around the screw so tightening the screw closes the end gap. Before tightening the screw, pre-close the gap as best you can with needle nose pliers. Firmly tighten the binding screw and it will draw the gap the rest of the way closed.

You can see electrically you have the exact same situation, but now you have used good quality methods to achieve the connections.


How to prevent bolts from rusting and sticking in the toilet tank?

The best solution is to purchase a new set of bolts that are made of stainless steel or brass. Both will not rust the same way that a iron or steel bolt will. They will cost a little bit more but will pay back in the long term.

My experience has been that the brass bolts after years can sometimes build up their own kind of corrosion that can make it difficult to remove the nuts. This seems to be related to  the water chemistry and to some degree if there is a micro leak by the bolt. Stainless steel bolts are the best in my experience and I have been very happy with the toilet repairs where I have used them.


These are made from vinyl but not PVC. Same base chemical but different materials and different chemistry.
Go to any pool or outdoor water sports supply store and they will have inflatable vinyl repair kits with appropriate glue and patches.
No, cyanoacrylate adhesives (i.e. super-glue) will not hold well here.


Can metal framed single pane windows be sandwiched together to make an effective double pane?

Basically, you can make a double-pane window, but so far as thermal insulating properties go, you are highly unlikely to achive anything of value. External storm windows serve to keep rain/snow off the window proper but do almost nothing to insulate (unless of course the interior window leaks like crazy and the storm window doesn't).
Sealed double-pane insulating windows are specifically designed with fluid dynamics in mind.  Aside from filling the gap with a dry inert gas, the spacing is carefully selected.  A very thin spacing will allow too much direct conduction heat loss thru the gas.  Too large a spacing will allow internal vortices to form, leading to large convection heat loss.

In sum, unless you dig up the proper spacing specs and are able to match them in your construction, you won't get much additional thermal insulation. You may get added sound insulation, if that matters.


Can I use mortar to roughly level a basement floor for workshop?

Mortar will most likely crumble.

To ensure good adhesion, you could cover the existing floor with PVA before mixing up some granite chips with a little sand and plenty of cement. Leave it a little low, and don't bother where you need only a thin covering, then you can cover the whole floor with a thin self-levelling screed to give you a smooth finish all over.


Will pipe insulation stop condensation on an HVAC drain line?

Yes. Isolating the pipe from moist air has been the common fix for decades.


1830 farm house - installing metal vertical siding over original clapboards

The way you are considering is quite standard. Rigid foam sometimes has a vapor barrier so you may not want a second one as it can trap the moisture and cause problems. With your asbestos shingles try not to break them and that will further reduce your risk of exposure to fibers when combined with proper PPE.


Removed wainscoting - Will I need to sand the entire wall?

It looks like a sanded finish, mix a little paint with some fine sand and dab it on the smooth spots with your fingertip, it won't be a perfect match since the original has a number of coats of paint on it but it will break up the smooth. No need to sand the whole wall, Wipe the spots you touched up with spackle with a damp sponge to remove the excess spackle leaving only the smooth area before you apply the sand/paint mix.

Don't concern yourself with textured rollers or anything like that. What isherwood says about the rollers will work very well. You will need about a 1/2 cup of you wall paint and maybe a tablespoon or two of fine sand, that much is ON the floor of the big box stores where the play sand is kept, make sure it is like table salt, not rock salt or even coarse salt and mix it in the 1/2 cup of paint. Like I said, it will not be a match for the texture completely, but it will help blend in the patch to the surrounding area. Again, hard to reproduce what years of paint will do to a surface.

I need to stress that this is only for the areas where the small blemishes are, not for general painting of an area. Painting of texture over texture will give the results you would expect. If and areas have been sanded, which I think the band that is painted white looks as though it was sanded or scraped pretty hard, this may show up differently. If an area that big is painted with the sand mixture, it will look worse than what it does now, if I see it right. If it has not been sanded or scraped, great, just touch up the small blemishes you already filled. (I am thinking nail holes and such.

Again to stress the treatment of the blemishes. Spackle always covers a larger area than needed. It is just the way it goes. After I do a wall repair on a textured wall, I wipe/wash the repair so the spackle (I use joint compound) so all the excess is gone from the surface of the texture, well maybe a little stays... and that will leave only the immediate area of the repair to re-texture. Brushes or rollers are too big to do this type of touch up and will get the new texture on the original and make the repairs more detectable. "Touching it on" with you finger will or should give you complete control how big or how thick or how much you apply on the small blemishes.


Is this wiring diagram for a series of outlets correct?

Your drawing is confusing and you have no power going TO the switch.

Also you showed no grounding to the receptacle boxes.

Use three core to the switch and cap of the extra white wire for future needs.


Yes, You have neglected to show how any particular sized water softener would fit onto a shelf table size of 15" x 20"; let alone get it into that space.

Also you will need a riser on the softener side of the P-Trap that you have shown there. Seems to me that there will also need to be a guaranteed airgap between softener drain line and P-Trap riser. If this were practical you may want to consider placing the P-Trap fitting below the cleanout or combine it in with a replacement for that fitting.

Lastly it seems like it will be a major pain to get access to the softener unit when elevated like that to service it. Service can include having to add softener salt to the tank for some units. For salt-free units that have 3-5 year replaceable resin type canisters the overall height of the unit may be a problem.


Connecting mirror heating pads to switch in bathroom

Run the two browns (L) to your switch: supply on one side of switch, heater on other side of switch.  Join the two blues (N). Join the two greens (PE).  Make sure your method of joining the wires conforms to your country's wiring standard.

By the way, Brown is Line per IEC; Blue is Neutral.  Line is black in US and other countries not aligning with IEC.


How do I replace a GFCI receptacle in my bathroom?

Let's see if we can answer this in pictures.  For one feed from the breaker panel, to have each of the outlets on their own GFCI, you want this:

For one feed from the breaker panel to have one GFCI protecting downstream outlets, you want this:

However, you say that you have a red and a black wire in the box, and this complicates things.  You might have a MWBC (multi-wire branch circuit) feeding the outlets, with the red hot on one outlet and the black hot on the other:

Or, you could have something else in this outlet, in which case (espcially if you don't feel confident) you really need to contact an electrician to get it sorted out.


What's the best way to leave some excess on a NM cable in a wall or joist space?

You can continue to do what you are doing or wrap it with tie wire or with zip ties. Just some way of keeping it from damage during the rest of construction.
The main thing is not to connect the circuit inside the panel. Make sure there is no exposed wiring that come into contact in the panel. Do not strip back the outer cover so the ground wire is not exposed. Use wirenuts on the ends of conductors. And always label it well enough so anyone accessing your panel knows what the extra circuit is for.
Or if the circuit is feeding to other devices that need to be hot. Make sure you have a method of locking out either the entire circuit or that part of the circuit that is not being used at the time.
Good luck and stay safe.


How do I stop weeds in desert landscaping?

It might be a bit late, as the rock's already down ... but the easy method would've been to put down a layer of landscape fabric before you put down the inch of rock.

I have no idea how much rock would stop grass ... I'd think there'd be other factors in play (eg, what size of rock, amount of void space, how good the soil is underneath, etc.)

If you don't have much grass nearby, and you didn't do this in an attempt to kill off an existing lawn, the seeds likely came in with the fill soil; if you pull the grass as it comes up (before it goes to seed), you should be able to kill it off


Can a cracked toilet be permanently repaired?

It is probably not worth the risk to fix it.  If you do manage to find an adhesive there is a risk of the repair cracking and leaking causing significant damage.


C is definately number 2, check for markings on the device. My bet is on it being the one with the red wire (because the diagram shows 2 wires to "C")

for live and neutral measure the resistance from the plug.

Also look at where the wires go compared to the diagram.

But, if forced to guess brown is live and blue is neutral, it's an international colour code.


Anytime there is case of reoccurring efflorescence, it is important to find the source of the water or moisture that is penetrating or passing out of the brick. If the brick is subject to a lot of splashing, any salts etc used for ice control, that could be a cause. This link will give you a very good reference and some possible treatments.  Good Luck. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Efflorescence


Minimalistic toilet setup in a traveler's trailer

Here in the UK, we always use chemical toilets for this sort of thing. They have a removable waste tank built in that in many models can hold at least a person-week's waste, and the chemical keeps it from smelling for that long even in hot weather. The capacity lasts a lot longer if you don't use it for everything. Emptying can be done into a normal toilet (e.g. at home) or at an emptying point for RVs, and the chemical additive is available in a type suitable for septic tanks. Most use a cassette tank that's removed through a hatch on the outside of the vehicle.

I'm sure you can buy the chemical in the US, whether the toilet is available is another matter. Brands over here include Thetford and Porta-Potti. They're usually made of plastic so are much lighter than a domestic toilet, and also use much less water to flush.


Yes replace the ballast.

You might as well buy some new tubes while you are there too.

And a few grey wire nuts.

Find the price for a completely new fixture, before you start looking at the ballasts. The results might surprise you.

Read the ballast, it will tell you what it was designed to do. Something like 4 wire, 2 tube, 32 to 40 watt, double pins.

There should also be a wiring diagram on the face of the ballast, you can use that to help match things.

At this point, is it less expensive to replace the entire fixture ?

If you can find grey wire nuts that have the spring inside of them, rather than just plastic threads, get them, they are much better.

If the ballast has been abusing the tubes, they have aged quickly, if you are up there replacing parts, might as well go for it.

If you carefully bend back of the fixture terminals, you can push the wire all the way through the socket, it does have to be stripped of insulation first.

If not that is what grey wire nuts are for.

The odds on you having a thermal starter, that is external to the ballast in any light bought in the last 10 years is low, really low.

The odds on you having an external starter, with an inductive ballast, is just about zero, unless someone did it for a twisted joke.


How do I unblock an interceptor chamber?

You are lucky there is a vertical pipe. The teapot lid is often at the bottom of the chamber, so it needs to be pumped out for access. As you suspect, this should enable cleaning out the main house trap. The pipe with the flap that is under water is to access the pipe beyond the trap. Either the pipe beyond or the trap can be the cause of the blockage. Dealing with the pipe beyond likely requires professional service with root cutting equipment.

So lets deal with the trap and hope that fixes it. You need to feed a plumber's snake down the pipe and through the trap to break up the blockage. I've also had luck simply jetting out the trap with a common garden hose with maximum water flow. How successful you are depends on the nature of the blockage. It may also require professional service with the proper equipment.

If you do require assistance, enquire about the cost of removing the main trap. It is typically no longer required by building codes and would eliminate a common trouble spot. Sometimes it's an easy job and other times it means digging up your garden.


Home Light Automation - Emulate 4 way switch with relay

You can purchase and utilize a common DPDT type relay (Double Pole / Double Throw) to create a cross over switch. It is pretty easy to understand from the following relay diagram:

You connect one circuit to the two NC (normally closed) terminals of the relay. The other circuit connects to the two COM (common) terminals. Then you add two additional wires which cross connect the two NC terminals to the opposite NO (normally open) terminals.

The coil of course is driven with the control voltage that you have selected. The simplest control voltage to use would be +12V DC. There are plenty of relays available that have 12V DC coils and your remote automation control can use simple transistors to drive the relay coils.

If you go ahead and use 24V AC for the relay coils then you would have to use an additional relay for each switch control to translate the switching from the AC realm to the low voltage DC realm. (There are circuit components available that can switch the 24VAC but it gets more complex than necessary for an application where +12V DC can be easily used instead. And then you can derive the needed +12V DC from a re-purposed computer power supply.

A major concern when building any type of system such as this, where you bring remote control wiring into the mains wiring boxes of your house, is safety and isolation. Only relays rated properly should be used and you would bear the safety liability associated with stringing the control wires around your house.


How do I easily and inexpensively fix a crack developing in the stone front of my house?

Your picture IS worth a thousand words! Is the stone a fascia or veneer in front of the bearing wall? Or is the stone the actual foundation for the structure? That's a window sill in the photo? Lastly, how old is the stonework? If it's just a façade of stone you may be able to reason the crack developed from settling. But it would be wise to monitor it. But to repair the gap start by removing loose pieces by hand (specifically that one in the middle). Then check each stone is still fastened and secured in place. Do this by grasping and attempting to move each one (again by hand). The second stone from the top left might come loose. If any are loose get a batch of mortar ready. With a cold chisel Gently chip away the old mortar from the joints on either edge of the crack. The idea is to develop a space along the crack line for fresh mortar. It will be difficult, but try not to loosen any stone. Brush or vacuum  out any dust. You should now have a wider gap running the length of the old crack! With a bucket of water and a sponge moisten the surrounding area. Mix a batch of mortar with enough water so that it will remain in place when troweled into the gap. The ideal tool for this type of work is a 'joint striking tool' and a pointed trowel. Work your way up from the bottom pressing mortar in the gap with the pointed trowel until it is full. Every 6 inches or so switch to the joint striking tool (which is concave in profile) and press the still moistened mortar level with the surrounding original mortar. For best results let the mortar cure out of direct sun light so it doesn't dry to fast. After it has set up for a couple of hours keep it moist for the same reason. The slower it cures the stronger it will be. Mortar straight from the bag and mixed with enough water will usually appear much lighter when cured. Some what silvery to grayish in tone. The mortar in your photo has been wiped with a sponge. Probably to clean any splotches from the stone and/ or for appearances. You can do the same after it sets up in an hour or so.


What is Texas code for kitchen electrical outlet near sink and cooktop

The NEC has you covered

This limit is set at 20" above the countertop by NEC 210.52(C)(5):

  (5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall
  be located on or above, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.)
  above, the countertop. Receptacle outlet assemblies listed
  for the application shall be permitted to be installed in
  countertops. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place, appliance garages,
  sinks, or rangetops as covered in 210.52(C)(1), Exception,
  or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets.


How do I repair drywall holes around outlets near my counter?

Cut a rectangle of new drywall that's of substantial size and appropriate for the area to be repaired. I would cover all those screw holes since they're probably weakened behind. Cut out for the outlet box.
Trace the patch on the wall with it in its intended position.
Cut out the existing drywall on the trace using a keyhole saw and/or utility knife. Be careful to not damage wiring.
Float some plywood or scrap lumber behind the cut edge and screw it through the existing drywall.
Screw the patch in place.
Tape the repair joints.

Be aware of where your studs are and either cut down the center or leave some overhang so you can mount the repair backing. Don't cut right against the edge of a stud and don't cut right against the upper molding. Leave at least a good inch.


Possible to refinish hardwood floor without messing with quarter-round baseboard?

The answer depends on what you are willing to accept for a finished result.  Removing the quarter-round allows the edger to reach underneath what is visible when the quarter-round is re-installed. Even the most fastidious edging is going to be visible to close inspection if the trim isn't removed.  The extent to which it is obvious depends largely on the skill of the person doing the work, but it is impossible to hide completely unless the trim covers it.

Depending on the condition of the floor when you start, the condition of the trim, skill of the work, this can look decent or pretty bad:

Keep in mind that this isn't the only cosmetic consideration.  The other would be what the condition of the trim is.  If you have several layers of paint, it might look worse if you remove the quarter-round.  For example, the trim below would be a major pain to re-finish and look anywhere near decent.

My personal inclination would be to remove the quarter-round myself, have a professional do the floor sanding, and then re-trim it and paint it myself. I have quite a bit of experience installing trim, so your mileage my vary.


Once the pour is set you can remove from the mold and submerge, I help a friend that has yard art molds he submerges some pieces, not all, for strength especially in the warmer weather. The molds release easier when the mix is set but still green or not fully cured leaving the form on longer makes it harder to clean.


Is triplex wire legal for running a sub-panel?

Triplex is designed and approved to be suspended on free air across open space.  You need an altogether different type of wire.


Is a sealed attic appropriate for Southern California?

If I were building the house in southern California then I wouldn't do this, especially if you were using asphalt shingles.

An unventilated attic in a warm climate like this can get extremely hot and will greatly decrease the life expectancy of asphalt shingles.  Over time they will start to curl prematurely from the heat.  If I were to do this I would insist the following courses of action:

Heavily insulate without sealing gables
Have at least a 1 foot overhang with ventilated soffits
If 1 foot overhang is not possible, then install an attic fan to assist in proper ventilation of the attic
If neither of these are possible then forgo asphalt shingles for something more appropriate for extreme heat like terracotta or slate shingles.


What tool should I buy to cut through very hard plastic?

When we cut vinyl siding, my tool of choice is a circular saw with the blade installed backwards. By putting the blade in backwards, it will wear down the plastic with a smooth line rather than shred it with a rough edge. The thicker and harder the plastic, the slower you have to go.

If the circular saw doesn't work (perhaps because you can't make your cut as a straight line around the rim of the barrel) then a Sawzall is the quick way (I'd be tempted to use a blade with a high tooth count to reduce shredding). And if all you need is a small round hole, then your standard hole saw on a drill will work.


How do I determine if I have an open neutral?

To test a bad neutral simply test the known hot to a good ground.  Hot to ground should return nominal voltage ~ 110 - 125 Volts and hot to neutral would read something irregular.
In the case the ground is either bad or missing simply run a drop cord from a working properly grounded outlet and test hot to ground.
FYI: The above tests are to test that the branch circuit in question does indeed have a good potential of nominal voltages ~ 110 - 125 Volts, but is unable to complete the circuit from an open neutral.
Isolating Open Neutral
Isolating the open neutral can take a bit more work, but you can save yourself some time by following these steps...

Isolate the branch circuit breaker.  See if it is labeled and what portions of the house may be using it.
Identify what is working on the branch circuit breaker and work your way upstream toward the non-working area until you can localize it to a room or similar area.
Once you've localized the area turn off the circuit breaker.
Next, start by inspecting the attic or other unfinished areas such as the basement or crawl space to learn the layout of the wiring.  This will give you a better idea of how the electrician wired the branch circuit and help you better isolate the problem.
If you don't have any unfinished areas then one by one inspect behind each outlet, switch box, recessed light, or similar for any signs of a lose neutral.
After checking and reconnecting any suspicious taps you can reset the circuit breaker and test.
Repeat as necessary.

In the event nothing upstream works this could be indicative of a lose neutral from within the panel itself.  Unfortunately, I don't think such is a DIY job and recommend only qualified electricians inspect and repair any problems inside the panel.

Alternative Step

Purchase a 77HP-G Tone Generator
This device goes on the source conductors ( black and white ) after the breaker has been turned off.  This only works on open circuits, that is, non-continuity between conductors.  A fault to ground for example will not work.
It sends out a audio frequency on the conductors that the probe will amplify.
The source of the problem can be isolated to some extent but using the device takes practice.

Worst Scenario

It does happen that some junction boxes will get covered up and hidden from previous renovations and remodels.  This is an unfortunate reality that makes isolating the problem quite messy.  Other than opening up the walls there is no other way.
Similar to hidden junction boxes are wire staples and nails that during the building of the house either were hammered too hard damaging the wire conductors or penetrated the wire because of accidents, negligence, and/or improper installations. Again, the only solution is to open up walls and ceilings.


Is it safe to mount a TV below a window?

Your two options are to attach the TV mount to one stud (try to hit the center of the stud) or mount a board to the wall that hits more than one stud and then attach the TV mount to that (or get a TV mount made to pick up more than one stud).

For larger TV's I would want to hit at least two studs.  I looked up a random 43" TV on Amazon and it's weight was listed as 17lbs.  Unless it's a very old flat TV, it's going to be pretty light, and one stud with a strong mount should be fine.

Use a stud finder to get a general idea of where the stud is.  Then take a small drill bit (1/16" is fine) and drill a series of test holes to find the exact center of the stud.

Picture from another question

Your window is higher, but the framing will be very similar.  The cripple stud under the window will be securely nailed into the sill plate.  That and the strength of the drywall will keep it from pulling out or moving.  When installed properly, studs and drywall are very strong.


Ground and neutral bus considerations when wiring a gfci breaker

Yep, you got it right.  Main panels (not sub-panels) always have the ground and neutral bonded (connected). I prefer to put neutrals on the bus bar that can be isolated and is connected to the neutral conductor.   The reasons for this is neutrals carry as much current as the hots and should have a good path.   Not only that, if the main panel were ever to become a sub-panel (like behind a generator transfer switch), it's much easier to do that install.


Determining load bearing wall in attached blueprints

The dashed lines that fall along walls and at pillar points in the basement drawing indicate the location of footings (poured structures under the slab). These typically correspond with bearing walls. You'll see some of them labelled "concrete pad".

I'd expect that the joists running from the wall indicated by the blue arrow to the exterior wall to the right run lengthwise with respect to the home. You can probably verify this a number of ways. If all this is true, you'll need to install a properly-sized beam to carry the floor over that footing.

The wall indicated by red arrows has a point-load footing under it, as does the more centrally-located wall below it in the drawing. There are probably steel posts and microlam (LVL) beams over the walls there. You'll have to investigate to be sure. The joists in that area probably run crosswise with respect to the home and bear on those beams.


Feedback for cheap, compact electric heating faucets

First, it's Alibaba, for Pete's sake. Do you even have to ask?

Even if we take this product seriously, I think it's too much heater crammed in too little space.  Either they're wildly sacrificing safety standards, or they are constricting flow down to a trickle.  Or both.

If such a thing were made by a reputable manufacturer such as Siemens, GE, Chromalox, etc., I would expect a plain faucet as a head-unit, and the guts of the machine to be under the sink.

3000W is certainly not enough energy budget to get a water flow you would consider "reasonable" at a sink faucet.  Go look up the flow vs temperature-rise data that is readily avaialable on the Web.  You'll see 3kw is not enough.


Is a conduit required or recommended when running SER wire in unfinished space?

No, conduit is not required

Wires equal to or greater than two #6 AWG or three #8 AWG can in fact be secured to the bottom of the floor joists per Code.

334.15 Exposed Work
(C) In Unfinished Basements and Crawl Spaces. Where cable is run at angles with joists in unfinished basements and crawl spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller than two #6 AWG or three #8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges of the joists.

Technically SE cable ran indoors is treated as NM cable....

338.10 Uses Permitted
(B) Branch Circuits or Feeders.
(4) Installation Methods for Branch Circuits and Feeders.
(a) Interior Installations.
In addition to the provisions of this article, Type SE service-entrance cable used for interior wiring shall comply with the installation requirements of Part II of Article 334, excluding 334.80

I'd recommend metallic flex though if a conduit is to be used.


What would happen if I went over the wattage limit specified by my path lights?

Yes and Yes. The maximum wattage is probably to prevent buildup of heat, and using a value over the limit could cause issues: melting the fixture, burning the bulb out, or potentially causing a fire. You will also cause a higher current to be flowing through the wiring, which could be an issue.

Note that the only important value is the actual wattage of the bulb, not the "watt-equivalent". E.g. if you switch to an LED bulb you may be able to get much more light while staying under 5 watts.


Just extend the downspout with another section and put another elbow on it  so it dumps directly into the lower gutter.
That would eliminate the water wearing the roof prematurely or the need to alter the roof.


Need advice on replacing 100amp main lighting breaker in a pushmatic- live panel involved in diy

If doing this first turn the breaker off or all of the loads on the breaker (yes I understand it’s still live).
Using the proper gear electricians do this all the time. I would add a face shield just in case. I have to wear a green one that I think makes it more dangerous because it makes it harder to see (a few years I started using an auto darkening welding hood it covers the face and is clear until a flash).
If I remember the screws on the pushmatic are captured so you won’t drop the screws, if they are not this will be the dangerous part of the job removal and installing the screws. I carry a small jar of rubber cement, some times called contact adhesive. I dip the screwdriver tip (a proper screwdriver will be a snug fit without the glue) let the glue dry only takes a minute. Remove the screws. The contact adhesive is sticky and helps hang onto the screw if it is not captured.
Dropping the screws can cause a short that may end in a arc flash.  The protective equipment is there for this possibility on top of the live circuit.
Wear cotton clothing nothing that can melt.
Use caution, loads turned off, face shield, gloves, insulated tools and heavy cotton clothes and caution while doing the work.
Just to make clear the loads are turned off so when the screws are loosened there is no arcing while coming out if the breaker is stuck on. Make sure the new breaker going in is off so it doesn’t arc on contact.
It has been quite a few years since working on a pushmatic I think the screws are captured but may be wrong the rubber cement although can be messy can be a real aide on the tip of the screwdriver


Installing a smart switch timer - 8 wires in gang box?

Here's the thing.  Wires are NOT color coded for novices.  Actually the color codes mean:

Red, white, black = this cable has 3 wires + safety ground.
Black, white - this cable has 2 wires + safety ground.

There's a rule that white must be used first for neutral and then always-hot, but that's the end of the color coding in North America.  So how do we tell how these go?

That information is recorded by how they are connected.

And when we get a photo like this, with all the wires splayed out for the camera, that was a misguided choice that leaves us nothing to say but "call an electrician".  There are simply too many possibilities to walk someone through "guessing".

Fortunately for you, you remember some things that make sense and cross a bunch of possibilities (most) off the list.

"The neutral wires were all attached together" (from a comment). Whew. Lucky us.   They should all be reconnected together (properly) and pushed into the back of the box.  If you are anticipating needing neutral for a smartswitch, add a pigtail to that bunch of now 4 (this is a job for a red wire nut) and cap off the pigtail for now.

Now that's off the table.

The good news is that all remaining wires are hots.  Normally, experimenting is super dangerous, but in this case, they all either connect to each other or to the opposite side of a switch.  Switches connect the 2 terminals, so that means if we connected them all together, your house wouldn't burn down; just a light would be stuck on.

So we need to identify 2 wires in particular out of these 4 hots.  One is supply from the service panel - this is hot at all times.  The other is the switched-hot going up to the lamp.  We can guess that the other wires carry "always-hot" onward to other points of use.  Notably, these points-of-use are now dead.

There's a "convention" that the red wire is used "preferentially" for a switched-hot, but that's only a common practice, not a standard nor requirement.

Normally, we crank down super hard on wire nuts - so hard that if the wires went in twisted another way, this un-twists them and twists them the new way.  But for experimentation, just feather-touch them - just enough to hold them together.

Naturally, and I know you already know this, you do all work with the power off, and only turn the power on to test the result of a new configuration. Cap off any wires you are not testing with, even white wires that may be exposed - they can be hot (that's why they have insulation lol).

So anyway I would connect A to B (capping off C and D).  If something that had lost power comes back on again, then either A or B is the always-hot.  Now try A and C.  You quickly find the always-hot.   Once you have that, then keep trying the always-hot with A, C or D until the lamp comes on.  Now you have switched-hot.

I like to mark switched-hot with red tape and always-hot with black tape (if they aren't already).  This also happens to be the color convention used by most smart switches.

Then it becomes very straightforward: Join all blacks.  Join all reds. Join all whites. Done!


There are numerous approaches.

The simplest is paint. If a blank cover and its screws are painted to match the wall, the box will recede in appearance.

Similarly, if the wall is wallpapered, you can wrap the blank cover with paper, gluing down a slight margin of the paper to the underside of the cover. Paint the heads of screws a color close to the paper's tone.

You can buy medallions or rosettes (meant for centers of ceilings) that can be glued to a blank cover.

If you search for ceiling medallions, you can find hundreds of styles, although many of them are pierced for electrical wires.

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


How should I repair a cracked trough roof beam?

The right way to fix this is to have a local engineer size a LVL (laminated veneer lumber) beam for you (solid wood lumber won't meet modern standards for a span that long). It'll likely be taller than your current beam. You'll need to temporarily support all the rafters with a framed wall on each side, using double top plates. Keep them a few feet away from the beam to allow room to work. Remove the existing beam, the posts supporting it, and all metal hangers.

The new beam will likely be 2" thicker than the current one--LVL beams are often 1-3/4" thick per member, and they're usually doubled in cases like this. This will require trimming of the rafters on one or both sides.

Slide the new beam into place and support it a few feet from each end with temporary posts. Fit new posts using adequate lumber. Double 2x4s may be enough, but ask the engineer. Install the same hangers if they're appropriate, or use new ones.

Alternatively, you may be able to install your new beam directly below the existing beam. Of course, this dramatically reduces headroom. I expect a new beam to be sized at around 12" high.


I believe you are describing  hollow wall anchors. Molly screw is a common brand name that has come to be reference for almost any hollow wall anchor. I think you have half the removal process. You need to install a screw then gently tap it with a hammer. This will straighten out the insert allowing it to come out thru a hole slightly larger than the original.


100 amp transfer switch for 125 amp home

No, you can't do that

A 100A manual transfer panel has a 100A breaker for the utility-side input; as a result, it would be a "bottleneck" if you put it inline with your service, restricting the whole service to 100A. However, this does not mean that you have the wrong transfer switch, so do not go running back to the store before you read the rest of this answer!

But, you probably don't want to transfer the entire house

Whole-house transfer sounds good at first, but especially for folks with smaller generators, its not nearly as good a plan in practice as it is in theory.  Many of your larger loads, even on a smaller service, are rather large for a generator, and are not nearly as important to have on a generator unless you are dealing with a situation where the power regularly goes out for days on end.  (Do you really need your dryer on a generator, or your range for that matter?)  Furthermore, you will have to flip a zillion breakers in order to not overload the generator when you transfer to generator power -- probably not the easiest thing to do in the dark!

As a result, what I would do is put a 30A, 2-pole branch breaker in the main panel to provide the utility-mains-side feed to the transfer switch, and then put a subpanel in off the standby side that only has breakers in it for the critical loads -- the ability to have heat so the house doesn't freeze (with a 125A service, I can tell you do not have electric resistance heat), the ability to run a small cooking appliance (such as a plug-in electric griddle or a microwave), your refrigerator (if it's not on the aforementioned small appliance branch circuit, that is), 1-2 circuits for standby lighting + the smoke alarms and selected receptacles, and perhaps the ability to run the hot water heater as well (an electric tank-type heater can be half-volted for use on a generator at the cost of very slow recovery, as well as an extra transfer switch and some clever wiring), as well as any sump or well pumps the house may have.


Why does a nearby switch turn off when I use a switch I just replaced?

Presumably:
The "always hot"  feeding power to both switches was confused with the "switched hot" and is now feeding the second switch from the first switch's switched hot, rather than the always hot to the box.


flushing the second toilet causes a sudden dip in supply pressure that allows the first to seal and once sealed there is no flow holding the valve open.

It sounds like the float valve needs a new button.


What kind of nut should I use when a screw is too short?

It looks like the old holes go all the way through, so they were made to work with machine screw rods,
note the relatively fine cut thread made to mate into a metal thread.   These would be, say, a backing plate or special metal bolt either a backing plate or a special nut (sometimes amusingly called "sex bolts" as the rodded bolt on the inside actually is a hollow tube with the thread on the inside.)

However, your new knobs are actually wood screws.  Note the coarse thread and threads being brought down to a tip.  These are made to screw straight into wood, into a pre-drilled hole drilled somewhat smaller than the screw size. Screwing the knob in pushes aside and compresses the wood fibers, while the teeth provide force engagement for the pushing and pulling to follow.

Of course, your hole is too large for that. Assuming changing knobs is out of the question...

...The answer is light woodworking.

Go to the hardware store and see what sizes of softwood dowels they sell (1/4, 5/16, 6mm, 8mm etc.)
You will need to drill the old holes larger, up to precisely an available wood dowel size.
Use the smallest size hole that will work, and "work" means you've overdrilled the old hole enough that 90% of the hole surface is freshly cut wood and not the dregs of the old hole.  Glue won't stick to that very well.

Epoxy is the king's way to glue

I use epoxy in West System, I'll show you how to do it without, but bear with me. I'd mix the smallest possible batch of "slow" epoxy, and add "404" high-density adhesive filler to it's like peanut butter (non-slumping non-oozing).  I'd swab the hole with it, swab the dowel with it, and then tap in a pre-cut length of dowel gently with a hammer to flush.  Immediately wipe off the ooze and excess, make another visit in 2 hours to remove any other excess while it's soft.  That ain't coming outta there.

Without West: The hardware store has a row of dual-syringe epoxy packs, ranging from 5-minute epoxy to 8-hour epoxy.  Work time is your friend, real West is a 4-16 hour epoxy.  Any West dealer (marine supply) will stock Actual 404 filler, but not necessarily in the affordable small packs (so call ahead to avoid  "404 Not Found", sorry, had to say it LOL). Or make a "good enough" substitute for 404 by making sawdust any way you please, and using window screen or a similarly fine kitchen collander (wood isn't toxic) to get only the fine stuff.

Give the epoxy a day to cure.  It helps to leave the near empty mixing cup out; poke at the stuff in the mixing cup, if you can still put a ding in it with your fingernail, it's too soft still. Hard epoxy is HARD.

If you just did it with Gorilla Glue or whatever, OK, we are here.

Surface restored. Now find the right drill size.

You want the hole to be just large enough so screwing in the knob is possible, but not so loose that it goes in easily and starts flexing and working as you use it, enlarging the hole as it goes.  It appears that's what happened to the last guy, which is why you're here.  This is trial and error; start small and work up in drill size carefully.


Something wrong with electrical outlet or outlet installation?

There are many reasons not to "tap" random lines going to fixed appliances.

#1.  They may be 240V!

Indeed, since the tool performance is not as you expect, you have assuredly tapped a 240V line.

One of the problems is that in residential wiring, they often use /2 cable to wire the 240V appliance.  In /2 cable, one of the wires is white, that is simply how /2 cable is made.  It is allowed for 240V circuits if the ends of the wires are re-marked a color with tape or paint, however that is often skipped because the use is "obvious" (e.g. going into a 240V breaker or to an appliance whose nameplate plainly says 240V).  In any case, that marking won't exist mid-cable so you don't get it if you tap it.  Don't tap cable.

As R.M.E. notes in comments, even if you figure out how to get 120 off a 240 line, you are drawing unevenly.  And you might also have to bootleg ground to do that.  Bootlegging ground renders unsafe your entire grounding system - all through the house.

#2 there is no legal/safe way to "tap" cable

The proper way to tap a length of cable is to add a junction box where needed, cut the cable 10" past the entry to the new box (leaving the other cable 10" short) then either replace the short cable entirely, or install a second junction box 20" away simply for the splice.  Obviously this includes a strategic choice of which half of the cable to replace.

There is no legal way to tap cable that doesn't have 18" of slack.  So you are doing something seriously horky and hacked.

Even a temporary inline tap means you have torn away the insulation.  You are not allowed to then bury that now-damaged cable in the wall.

#3 Dedicated circuits don't have capacity to spare

When you have a large hardwired appliance like a water heater, stove, air conditioner, etc. on a dedicated circuit, that circuit is usually sized to supply that appliance alone.  Suppose you have a 15A air conditioner.  It must be derated to 125% for a continuous load, so 18.75 amps.  That on a 20A circuit leaves only 1.25A to spare.   It could run an LED porch light, that's about it.

Further, if the hardwired loads are more than half of circuit capacity, you are not allowed to put receptacles on the circuit at all.

#4 It may not protect your socket (too large a breaker)

Often, a dedicated line is a larger amperage (i.e. 30A) that is not legal to connect a common 15/20A receptacle.

Any 20A receptacle(s)  requires a 20A breaker.
a single 15A receptacle requires a 15A breaker.
the very common double 15A receptacles can take a 15A or 20A breaker.

Even worse, as Ed Beal notes in comments, the breaker/wire combination may have been engineered for a specific load. It is not properly protected on a different load.

The right way.

You use "permanent" wiring methods so the appliance is no longer connected, and your receptacles are.   If it's on too large a breaker, or the wrong voltage, you also move the wires to a correct sized breaker.

When you're all done, you rewire it back.

For instance I needed to hook up a 240V heater temporarily.  It is listed to install on a 30A circuit.  I followed the A/C cable (which fortunately was in conduit) and found an intermediate junction box, where they had graciously left me 18" of slack.  Snip.  I capped the wires to the A/C unit.  Then I spliced the wires from my heater into the supply (10AWG since it is a 30A circuit).   When I was done, I removed the heater cable, capped the knockout, and re-nutted the supply wires back to the A/C.


What's the right name of the things that mount a frameless mirror to the wall through the mirror?

What you're looking for is called a "stand-off". From mirrorsupports.net:

  For simple, standoffs, without the need to drill holes in the mirror, choose from the following framepegs or edgegrips. For large heavy mirrors and large offsets - drill holes in the mirror and use our standoff sytems.


How do I fix this light fixture now unstuck from the ceiling?

1 - TURN OFF THE ELECTRICAL SUPPLY, preferably from the breaker, not just the switch.
Those two screws you see protruding from the box are there to hold up the light fixture. Extend these screws to their full length so that they are in the electrical box, but are as long as they can get.
Remove the glass and possibly the lightbulbs from the fixture.  You should see two slotted keyhole spaces that should line up with the screws.  Push the screws through the insulation and into the big parts of the holes. Rotate the fixture so the screws end up in the slots.
Tighten up the screws, but do not over-tighten.  Just tight enough to snug up the fixture to the ceiling.
Reinstall a light bulb, turn on the breaker and test the switch.  If it doesn't work, then remove and check to make sure the wires are all attached correctly. They might have jiggled loose during this process.
Reinstall the glass.
There is no adhesive. Don't use any adhesive.


I could give you some easy tips on adjusting the door and jamb but I would only do that if there wasn't the option to - make the frame bigger (rough opening).

You can plane off 1/4" on one of the sides in about 5-10 minutes and you won't be messing with the integrity of the door you bought.   You can plane sloppy and with shims you are still good to go.


Is a ten guage solid copper wire safe to use for a range?

For a safe and code compliant setup, everything has to be compatible:

the breaker
the wire
the receptacle
the range cord / plug
the range itself

What you can use is determined by the range;  the manufacturer's instructions will state what operating voltage and ampacity is suitable for the electrical circuit.
The breaker is the main safety device, it protects the wire from starting a fire if there's a short or overload.  If you have 10 gauge wire, you're probably limited to a 30 amp breaker.  Most ranges require a 40 amp or 50 amp breaker.
The receptacle has to be suitable for the ampacity of the circuit.  The NEMA specifies a receptacle configuration for all the various circuits / ampacities.  Ranges usually operate on combination 240/120 volt circuits, and either 40 or 50 amps.  Many will also run on 208/120V circuits, and some will only operate on 208/120V circuits.
The range is usually sold with the NEMA cord and plug for the NEMA receptacle that's suitable for the type of circuit your range requires, if it is not included with the range, the appliance store will usually sell one that's suitable per the manufacturer's instructions.  They may sell you both a three prong and four prong cord and plug set for your range;  older homes often have three prong circuits with no safety ground, and have three wire receptacles.  Newer work will have four wire 120/240V range circuits with four wires circuits and four slot receptacles.  You would (carefully) follow the manufacturers instructions to attach the three-wire or four-wire cord to terminals in the range.
Unless your range is made for a 30 amp circuit, you're probably going to have to run new wire.  Even if your range operates at 40A, I'd install a 40A breaker and receptacle with wire capable of 50A.  There's nothing wrong with oversizing the wire, and this way you can upgrade the stove by changing the breaker and receptacle without changing the wire.