Is this an acceptable way to route wires around trusses?

It's OK, I've done it that way, but on a friends project, he didn't like it because at some future point, at some future remodel/change an electrician might have to drill thru the top plate for an additional cable, potentially hitting the existing cable. My friend is in the trades and on a remodel ended up killing a feed to the range.  Took forever to find it.
He wanted me to pull back the cable a few inches from the were the rafter and joist meet to allow for stapling room and fasten them there. You only have to staple every other joist.   Mostly personal preference. Just providing some info.  Glad you are using insulated staples, good choice.


Depending where you want your actuators. Taco brand makes a zone valve system that you would have to solder in each loop of pipes. Depending how your system is piped.  The system is usually located close to the boiler and the actuators are closed unless being used


Using spade lugs to terminate wires under screw posts

I find on stranded thhn if you strip the wire back but not enough to remove the jacket completely off the copper it keeps the strands twisted and protects the ends of the wire. Clip some of it back if it is sticking far off the receptacle but not enough to bring the copper back to the surface. Not sure if I described it good enough but off you can picture it, it helps greatly on screw terminals if you have to loop your wire, plus I don't trust crimp on connections, they fail often in my opinion


How does a panel get its current rating?

The panel may look identical to you but the thickness of the buss and the material makes a big difference where a inch of copper can handle 1000 amps per square inch verses aluminum of only 700 amps (NEC 366.23) so the buss material makes a difference it may look the same even be the same thickness but one being solid copper and one being aluminum with a plated copper makes a 30% difference. So a material difference or thickness, even the insulation used can affect the rating but we can’t really tell all of this with a casual observation.


How can I prevent a wooden door from expanding and binding when it rains?

I am going to guess that you have a wood door causing the problem. If you have checked the original installation and frame alignment and feel that cannot be changed, then the only real solution is to plane it down so it closes properly when damp or humid. You can install extra or new weatherstripping to assure it has a good airtight seal,especially in dryer times when it may shrink a bit.


How can I make a sturdy frame out of square, steel tubing?

Miter the ends of the tubing itself and then weld the corners.


In addition to saving money, there are a bunch of reasons to put cabinets directly on the subfloor and not put tiles under the cabinets:

(As already answered by Lee Sam): Level the cabinets with shims and use the tile (or baseboard molding if the tile is not very thick) to hide the bottom edge of the cabinets
If any plumbing or electrical needs to run through the floor, it is easier to do so without being concerned about tile or finished flooring
Tile could be installed with different tiles around the edges, treating the installed cabinets like a wall.
If you ever decide to replace the flooring in the future, there is no need to remove the cabinets (which can be quite involved due to sinks, dishwashers, heavy countertops, etc.) in order to replace the tiles underneath the cabinets.


What's a good way to sharpen a carpenter's pencil, without buying a special sharpener?

Whatever you have handy. There are many tools that would work, besides a pencil sharpener dedicated to this.

A pocket or utility knife - cut away from you of course.
A sliding, compound miter saw (overkill, but it will work well enough.)
A belt sander
A band saw
A drum sander in your drill press (or an oscillating drum sander if you have one in the shop.)

The point is, a carpenter's pencil is mainly wood, and can be shaped by any tools you have in reach that can also shape wood.


Moss on siding, do I need to replace this siding before painting?

You can save the siding, but kill the moss off first with a product you can get at the big box stores. Many products claim it will keep a roof clear of moss for 2 years. It will take a few weeks after applying it for it to do its job. Do not power wash or scrub the roof!! After it is gone remove the loose paint, making certain the wall is clean before priming and finish painting.


How to rule-out certain causes of 15 amp breaker that keeps tripping

If the amplifier was unplugged during the storm, then I would suspect that a surge damaged the breaker slightly, causing it to trip more quickly on a surge. The surge from turning lights on a few at a time isn't enough to trip it, but the larger surge caused by the amplifier power supply is.

Temporarily swap the wires in the panel between two adjacent 15A breakers. If the problem stays with the breaker, then the breaker is definitely the problem. If the problem stays on the same circuit, then the problem is NOT in the breaker; it's either in the circuit wiring or in the amplifier.

Note that the building code now requires arc-fault circuit breakers in certain areas of a residence, including bedrooms. Unfortunately, these are notorious for nuisance trips, even when not damaged. If this is an AFCB, it's even more likely that a storm surge has made it more sensitive to transients than it should be.


How can I drill into cinder blocks and attack brackets?

In my humble opinion, you've got two choices using those brackets in cinder block. You can use 1/4" toggle bolts if you drill in the hollow section of the block or 1/4 or 5/16" lag bolts with lead shields for the solid area of the block. These are common items at your home store. Lag shields need a 1/2" hole drilled in the block and the toggle bolts need a 5/8" hole. A regular masonry bit will do the trick. Don't use a hammer drill. Good luck and stay safe out there.


Underfloor heating and how R values affect it

You're correct to assume that tile will transfer heat more quickly. However, since it's much more dense than wood, it also requires more heat energy to reach a certain temperature. For that reason, heating time is normalized somewhat.

When discussing energy efficiency we have to look at where the heat can go other than through the flooring. The R-value of the flooring is irrelevant in a scenario where there's perfect insulation below and alongside the heat source. All heat must transfer through the flooring in that case. Therefore, the insulation that was installed below the heat source is the critical factor. If you have a good layer of foam below the heat source, either flooring is probably fine.


If it's going to be for a short period of time I'd get some silicone adhesive and use that to put the tile back in. Don't bother grouting either, just use the same adhesive for that too. Just make sure the area is totally dry before sealing in the tile and let the adhesive cure for the recommended time before using the shower.


The grounded (Neutral) conductor normally carries return current.
The grounding (Ground or Earth) conductor does not.
If a wiring fault opens the Neutral, the separate Earth/Ground conductor provides a return path for fault current. If you only had the Neutral, a neutral fault would lead to the entire thing becoming energized.
Exactly this "logic" was used for electric stoves and dryers in the USA years ago - they had (two Hot or Live, being the US system of 120V-0-120V with 240V between the lines) Hot, Hot, Neutral and no separate Ground. Enough actual problems resulted that code was changed to require Hot, Hot, Neutral AND Ground. There are still stoves and dryers connected that way (since the code system does not require replacing things installed to code when they were installed until you are changing the circuits, usually when remodeling.) But any new work is required to follow the safer standard.
Additionally, if fault current is returning on the Neutral, your RCD (which I understand as a "whole house ground fault circuit interrupter" - terminology differences) won't see a fault, because the current out on Hot/Live will match the current in on Neutral. Those devices look for a mismatch between current out on Hot/Live and current returned on Neutral (or for the US system Neutral or the other Hot) and trip when there is a difference between them, because current is going where it should not. We do use single circuit GFCI's to upgrade older circuits with no grounding conductor since they will trip if current passes out through a person or otherwise not in the circuit, but for the case of a fault that would go to Earth/Ground on the circuit, combining that with neutral would fool the RCD.


No, it sounds like you have a high efficiency furnace and these will direct vent outside versus using the chimney stack to vent.  You might want to talk to the installer to see if it could be better positioned as to not damage you plants.


What are some routine home maintenance tips?

Change your furnace air filter regularly (frequency depends on filter type).
Check for water leaks regularly. This means checking the attic for roof leaks, the basement/first floor for flooding from outside, the water heater, sinks, etc. Not all water damage happens with a major failure. A lot of damage can happen from a small leak that goes unnoticed for a long period of time.


I would start out by thoroughly cleaning the fan housing and blades. Most of the grease you're referring to will be on the blades and will really cut down on their efficiency. So remove that grease and you'll see a big difference. Anything more than that will require removing the hood.
If you have access to the area above the hood, like a cabinet or attic, you can disassemble the vent pipes and clean them. Just make sure to re assemble them correctly.


What are the pros and cons of Milgard vs Jeld-Wen windows?

I've got Milgard in my house and have been very pleased.  There was one window that after about 8 months became difficult to open.  I called up their service and they sent a guy to my house the next day and it was fixed all for free.  Their windows come with a lifetime warranty, though as I'm writing this I'm not sure if it is for the original owner or if it follows in a sale.  The double pane helped tremendously with noise reduction too.


Running new fridge line, get regular breakers, AFCI, combo with GFCI, GFCI outlet, etc?

You don't need GFCI for a fridge receptacle in a residential kitchen
Refrigerators are, and have always been, effectively exempt from the GFCI requirements for dwelling units in the NEC, as those requirements only require receptacles serving kitchen countertops to be protected, and a dedicated refrigerator receptacle clearly doesn't serve countertop space.
AFCI is likely required though
However, your location is on the 2017 NEC, with no apparent local amendments, so you'll need to get an AFCI breaker for the new circuit, as basically all dwelling unit receptacles are required to be AFCI protected under the 2017 NEC.


If you could dimple in the metal around the hole so that you leave enough metal for screw threads to engage then you can install a flat head sheet metal screw that has threads right up to the head. This strategy in the best case would recess the screw head enough so that you could use some high temperature epoxy to fill in over the screw head. In the less than optimum case the screw head may stick out above the surface in which case you would have to go ahead and grind it down to flush or more so that you can the fill the area around and over the screw head.

If the metal door has a wood core behind where holes are located you may be able to countersink and dimple the area around the hole so that a flat head screw will fit up to the surface. In this case a longer screw could be threaded into the wooden core inside the metal door.

If there is no real chance to get a screw threads to engage in the metal cladding of the door or into some door core material then the problem of plugging the hole with a metal piece becomes a bit more complicated. For a very small hole in the size of say 1/8 inch it would seem to me that a high temperature epoxy may be the best thing. Just fill it, let it harden and then sand to level. Note that when using the filler it would really be best to sand down to bare metal near the hole. The epoxy will adhere better to bare roughened bare metal than it would to paint surface.


How do I insulate space in loft to create music studio

Have a look at my answer on this question regarding acoustic foam. You will be able to cut down sound propagation significantly using it, by coating the walls and ceilings of your rooms with the foam.

If you have the capability, you could make a significant difference by mounting the rooms on rubber bushings.

This may be overkill for your purposes, but it is used for recording studios etc. as it dramatically reduces vibration through the walls and floors being transmitted.


Why does my window air conditioner cool but not dehumidify?

Don't forget that the percentage humidity is RELATIVE. Cold air cannot contain as much moisture as warm air. For the same amount of water in the air, the relative humidity will increase as the temperature drops. By consulting a psychrometric (humidity) chart, I see your overnight run removed 19 grains of water per pound of dry air. If you rewarmed the morning air back to 81 deg F, the relative humidity would be about 52%. Or, if you cooled the initial air to 72 deg F without removing any moisture, you would get a relative humidity of around 88%. So despite the higher relative humidity reading, moisture was removed.

The moisture removed is a function of the temperature of the evaporator coils in the A/C unit and the volume of air flowing through it. As bib pointed out, the unit may not have been actually running that much, reducing the volume of air passing through the coil, and thus minimizing the dehumidification effect.

If you continue to cool the same air and avoid introducing additional moisture, the humidity level will eventually be reduced. It will take some patience.


Tools:

Safety equipment

Eye protection (such as wrap-around sunglasses)
Hearing protection (such as ear plugs or ear muffs)
Dust mask

Facilities

Dry, well-ventilated work area (for working with wood preservative and/or caulk)
Sink (for cleanup)

Measuring tools

Level (such as a meter-long spirit level)
Tape measure or carpenter's rule
Long string or twine (a couple feet longer than needed to stretch between the nearest good fence posts)
Pencil

Containers

3 five-gallon buckets, with lids (for holding crushed rock and waste concrete)
Tarp(s)
Caulk gun (The Spruce explains two types of caulk guns.)
Reusable cap for caulk tube

Digging tools

Narrow tamper / digging bar (such as a 16-pound Collins Axe tamper / post hole digger)
Shovel
Trowel (such as a bulb planter)

Fastener adders and removers

Claw hammer (such as a 16-ounce claw hammer)
Miniature crow bar (such as a 14-inch Estwing nail puller)
Phillips-head screw driver (if any Phillips-head screws need to be removed from the fence)
Flat-head screw driver (if any flat-head screws need to be removed from the fence)

Cutting tools

Scissors
Knife (such as a carpenter's knife, snap-blade knife, or Exacto knife)
Saw (such as a hacksaw)

Disposable tools

2 Disposable work surfaces (such as corrugated cardboard boxes)
Disposable paint brush (if your fence post was cut after being pressure treated)
Disposable finger bowl (such as a cut-down yogurt cup, for handling the edible mineral oil)
2 Disposable pairs of gloves

Materials that do not become part of the fence

Lava soap
Dish soap
Edible mineral oil
Paper towels
Small plastic bag (for disposing of trash)
Painter's tape (such as 1 7/8" painter's tape)
Refreshments (such as water and/or Gatorade)

Materials

4" x 4" (nominal = 3½" x 3½" actual) pressure-treated fence post rated for ground contact, approximately 40% longer than the above-ground height of the fence post.  (Many lumber yards carry fence posts in 2-foot increments, such as 6', 8', 10', and 12' long, and will shorten the posts if requested by the customer.)  For example:

above     total       hole
ground    length      depth
8'6"   -> 12' long    3'10"
7'     -> 10' long    3'4"
6'     ->  8'8" long  3' (8'8" is often cut down from 10' long)
5'     ->  7' long    2'4"
4'     ->  6' long    2'4"

Liquid wood preservative (if your fence post was cut after being pressure treated, such as Copper Green Brown)
1 pair of Fence Fins
30" Small diameter rubber tubing (such as 5/32" ID windshield wiper vacuum hose)
Adhesive for bonding rubber to metal (such as butyl rubber caulk)
36 1½"-long galvanized nails (such as heavily galvanized #8 nails)
8 small metal angle brackets (such as Simpson Strong Tie part A21.  Use another 8 if you need to apply angle brackets to the other ends of the fence panels.)
5 - 15 gallons of 5/8" minus crushed rock (exact amount depends on how much concrete is removed from the fence post hole and discarded)
The dirt that you will remove from the fence post hole.
0 - 2 gallons of extra topsoil, if needed.  (For example, a Special Garden Mix.)

Steps

If required by state or local law, Call Before You Dig, at least two full business days ahead of time.  In many U.S. jurisdictions, this phone number is just 8-1-1:  as a free service, the local utility companies will graffiti your yard near where they think their underground utility lines are buried.  (You can request that they use flags instead of spray paint, but they will probably spray paint anyway.  Eventually the spray paint will wear off.)

(Steps 2-5 make sure that all surfaces of the lumber are preserved.)

Wear a disposable pair of gloves when handling the wood preservative.  The wood preservative is toxic, and hard to clean off.
If your lumber was cut after it was pressure-treated, apply wood preservative to the cut surfaces of the lumber.  Follow the word preservative manufacturer's instructions.  In particular, perform the work in a dry well-ventilated area, and use a temporary work surface to catch any drips.  Use the disposable paint brush.  Copper Green Brown is toxic, smells nasty, and creates stains.  The items treated with Copper Green Brown will smell nasty for weeks (but eventually the smell fades away), and the brown color is not necessarily permanent.
If you applied wood preservative, allow the preservative to soak in (per the manufacturer's instructions) before installation.  Copper Green Brown needs at least 48 hours to dry.
Paper towels, Lava Soap, edible mineral oil, and dish soap can help you clean up after working with the wood preservative.

(Steps 6-19 "glue" rubber strips onto the exposed top edges of the Fence Fins.  This reduces the chances of someone cutting themselves on the Fence Fins after the post is installed.)

Apply two short pieces of painter's tape to each Fence Fin.  Each piece should be on the part of the Fin that has the holes, along the top edge, touching the gentle bend that marks the edge of the part with the holes.  The purpose of the these pieces of tape is to avoid getting caulk on the part of the Fence Fin that will be nailed to the fence.
Use the scissors to cut the small-diameter rubber tubing into four pieces, each 7½" long.  (Each piece should be slightly shorter than the distance from a Fence Fin's sharp bend to the Fence Fin's gentle bend.)
Unroll the small-diameter rubber tubing, so that it is approximately straight.  If it has a residual curl, let the ends point upward.
Working on the other disposable work surface, slice through one side of the rubber tubing.  Make the cuts be straight lines, preferably on the shorter side of each tube's curl.
Wear the other disposable pair of rubber gloves while working with the butyl rubber caulk.  (Butyl rubber caulk is very hard to clean off of one's hands.)
Follow the butyl rubber caulk manufacturer's instructions to open the caulk.  (Typically, this requires using the knife to cut off the tip of the caulk tube, using the caulk gun's rotatable needle to prick the inside of the caulk tube, cleaning the needle with a paper towel, rotating the needle out of the way, and mounting the caulk in the caulk gun.)
Fill the inside of a piece of rubber tubing with the caulk.
Press the rubber tubing onto the top edge of the Fence Fin, between the sharp bend and the gentle bend.  The slit in the tubing should face the edge of the Fence Fin.
Apply a bead of caulk to each side of the tubing.  Use a gloved finger to "tool" (smear) the caulk along the line where the tubing meets the metal.
Use short strips of painter's tape to strap the tubing down to the Fence Fin.  The strips should go at curved parts of the top edge of the Fence Fin, a couple inches in from the ends of the tubing.
Repeat steps 12-15 to apply the other three pieces of tubing to the other three long top edges of the pair of Fence Fins.
When done, remove the caulk tube from the caulk gun, and apply a reusable caulk tube cap to the caulk tube.
Butyl rubber caulk will remain sticky for a long time.  Be careful when handling the Fence Fins.
Paper towels, Lava Soap, edible mineral oil, and dish soap can help you clean up after working with the butyl rubber caulk.

(Steps 20-23 record where the fence post was installed, so that you can put the new post in the same place.)

Tie the string to the tops of the nearest good fence posts.  Pull it tight, and make sure you know where the string is at the top of each post.  (This will help you put it in the same place later.)
Use the pencil to mark where the string crosses the fence post to be removed.
Use short pieces of the painter's tape to mark the edges of where the fence panels's slats and 2x4s touch the fence post.
Take down the string.

(Steps 24-29 dismantle the old fence post.)

Wear eye protection and hearing protection when bashing or pulling things with hammers and/or crow bars.
Use the claw hammer, miniature crow bar, and/or screwdriver(s) to remove the nails and/or screws that attach the fence panels to the fence post.
If you need to replace the fence post because it is rotten and/or leaning, the fence post may fall over once the panels are detached.  If not, try pulling out the fence post.
Use the trowel and/or shovel to peel the lawn back from the fence post, to reveal any concrete that the fence post was set in.
Use the tarp(s) to protect the lawn around the fence post.
If the fence post was set in concrete, repeatedly slam the sharp end of the digging bar into the post and concrete to break them up.  (This may make sparks.)  Alternate shattering the concrete with prying and digging out the concrete shards.  Put the buried fence post pieces in a pile on the tarp.  Put the concrete pieces in another pile on the tarp.

(Steps 30-43 install the new fence post, but do not attach it to the fence panels.)

Install the Fence Fins on the fence post.

Place the Fence Fins so that their tops will be about 4 inches below ground.
Before nailing, verify the position of the Fence Fins.  For example, an 8'8" fence post that will be 6' high should have the Fence Fins between 1'8" and 2'4" from the bottom end.
Before nailing, verify that both Fence Fins have the tubing on the top side.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions in other respects.
This will use 16 nails, because not all of the holes should be filled in.

Dig out the hole, so that it is about three times the diameter of the fence post, and about 4" deeper than the bottom of the fence post.  (It needs to be wide enough that the dull end of the digging bar will fit between the fence post and the side of the hole.)
Extend the hole along the line of the fence so that the Fence Fins will fit.  These triangular extensions of the hole will need to be about 12" deep.
Fill the bottom 4" of the hole with the crushed rock.
Use the dull end of the digging bar to compact the crushed rock.  (Basically, beat on the rock until the rock stops settling.)
Reinstall the string, in the same place as before.
Place the fence post in the hole.
Adjust the fence post's height, so that its top is the desired height relative to the string.  (This might require adding crushed rock beneath the post, or removing crushed rock from beneath the post.)
Squeeze the fence post between the adjacent panels, to make sure that the post is in the right place horizontally.
Use the level to make sure that the fence is vertical.
Add another 4" of crushed rock at the bottom of the hole.  Compact the rock.  Repeat steps 36-38.
6" at a time, repeat steps 36-39 until you have added enough crushed rock to make up for the concrete you removed.
6" at a time, add the dirt you removed.  Try to put the dirt you got from the bottom near the bottom, and the dirt you got from the top near the top.  Repeat the compacting and measurements every 6".
If you need extra material, use the extra topsoil.

(Steps 44-49 attach the fence panels.)

Use the claw hammer, miniature crow bar, and/or screwdriver(s) to remove one fence panel slat from each panel.  Remove the slat that is next to the fence post.
For each fence rail, align two angle brackets on the fence post.  Align the angle brackets so that one is just below the top edge of the rail, and the other is just above the bottom edge of the rail.  Leave a gap between the brackets that is big enough that you can easily nail in the slat.  Put the long side of the angle bracket between the rail and the (missing) slat.  Put the short side of the angle bracket between the post and the end of the rail.
Remove the string and painter's tape that you used to help align the fence panels.
Attach the angle brackets to the fence post.  (This will use 2 nails per angle bracket, for a total of 8 nails.)
It is possible that one panel's rails will need to be slightly shortened.  (Perhaps the new fence post is not in exactly the same spot as the old one, or perhaps it is rotated slightly differently, or perhaps the fence post is slightly wider, or perhaps the extra thickness of the angle brackets does not quite fit between the rails and the post.)  If needed, use the saw to shorten the rails, so that they fit.
Attach the fence panels to the angle brackets.  (This will use another 2 nails per angle bracket, or another 8 nails.)
Reattach the two end fence slats to the fence panels.  (This will use another 4 nails.)

(Step 51 is a finishing touch.)

If the old fence post had a cap, remove it from the old fence post and put it on the new fence post.  If the cap is in poor shape, replace it.


How can I determine if my receptacles are grounded, and how can I fix it if they are not?

It is extremely unlikely that all three receptacles all have bad grounds. Not impossible, but unlikely.

The most likely scenario is that your home was built before grounding became required by code (1962, plus however long it took for your state/municipality to adopt it), and then someone renovating after that time put in 14/2 Romex with a bare ground for the outlets, but then found that the supply wire from the panel didn't have a ground and didn't bother to replace that wire. So, the ground is either shorted to the neutral or left open.

The other likely scenario is that there is a discontinuity in the ground between these three outlets and the supply wire. The necessary wires exist, but whoever last messed with your home's electrical didn't connect them properly.

An outlet tester, and a more thorough inspection of the wiring, can tell you. Head to Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace, whatever, and pick up a 3-prong GFCI outlet tester:

Plug it into all of the outlets on each receptacle; ideally, you should see the two amber lamps light, but that's unlikely if the surge protector doesn't detect a proper ground path. What's more likely is that you'll see only the middle lamp light, indicating an "open ground".

Unfortunately, because the neutral and ground are supposed to be continuous (they both tie directly to the neutral bus strip in the service panel), there isn't a really good way to detect a neutral-to-ground short or swap without opening up all the outlet boxes; a 3-lamp tester will read "correct", and a multimeter will read continuity between neutral and ground no matter whether they're correct, swapped or shorted. However, this scenario is very unlikely in your case, as the surge protector should read "grounded" if the ground pin has continuity.

With the symptoms confirmed (hopefully), turn off the breaker (or pull the fuse) for this circuit, and open up all the outlet boxes. Verify that all of the wire bundles coming into each of the outlet boxes have a bare ground wire, which is twisted together with any other bare wires in the box, and is also connected to the outlet's grounding terminal (it is also acceptable, if the outlet box is metal, for the wires to be screwed into the box itself; the outlet will then be grounded through its chassis and the mounting screws. If the box is a resin or thermoplastic, the ground screw of the outlet chassis must be used).

If that doesn't indicate the cause of the problem, you will need to determine which of the various wire bundles is fed directly fro the panel. This is generally done by disconnecting all the black wires from all the outlets, then turning the power back on and VERY CAREFULLY probing each one with a non-contact voltage tester, like this:

The black wire that lights up is the one fed most directly from the panel; however, it may not be the actual wire run from the panel itself, as there could be something further "upstream". The usual culprit is the switch for the lights, especially in older homes (newer NEC code encourages lights and outlets to be on different circuits, by encouraging calculation of demand load based on separate lighting and appliance branch components, so you're not fumbling around in the dark if your hair dryer shorts out). If your NCVT lights up on anything else that you know is "dead" when the power to this circuit is off, turn the circuit back off and pull those things out of their boxes to inspect those wires. Check for the existence of ground wires, whether they're properly continuous with all other grounds, and with all black wires disconnected, whether any black wire still lights up with the power on.

If the trunk that seems to be the main power feed does have a ground, use a multimeter to measure the ohms between the neutral (white) and bare (ground). It should be zero. If it isn't, the ground is probably not properly connected to the neutral bus strip at the panel; this is where you call in a qualified electrician, because the rails in a fusebox or breaker panel can kill you instantly with one wrong move. If the ground doesn't exist in that supply wire, that's the problem; you'll need to run a new length of grounded Romex to the panel, or alternately run a green-jacketed ground wire to another box with a known good ground (I THINK this is acceptable; an electrician can verify). Understand that if you have a fusebox and the electrician has to open it up, he may insist on replacing it with a breaker panel in order to bring everything he's touching up to current code.


Does age of asphalt shingles affect their resistance to hail damage?

Yes, to a degree.  Older shingles have lost much of their resilience and coating and what's left can often break easier or get knocked off easier.

New shingles can be damaged by hail but older ones are much more vulnerable.

You also don't know exactly what type of hail fell on your roof vs. one just down the street.  Hail can vary a lot in a very short distance.

The best thing you can do for your specific case is either to inspect the roof yourself of call in a reputable roofing contractor for an inspection.  I would NEVER trust someone who comes uninvited wanting to look at my roof.  Usually they are scammers!

You are correct, however, in that there is a limited lifetime and nailing capacity for roof decking.  If you've really had 3 roofs installed already you got your money's worth and it may need to be replaced.


is using 2 sch40 45 elbows the same as using a single 1-1/4" DWV elbow

The answer to this question is no, you cannot use a normal sch 40 45 in a DWV system. Section 706 of the IPC prohibits it.


How can I connect my new light fixtures to old fluorescent fixture bases?

Cut off the light bulb adapter, strip the wires, cut off (or release, if they are releasable - look for a hole to poke something into) the plastic connector blocks, strip those wires if you had to cut them off,  and wirenut black to black and white to white. Keep the little orange connector, it's handy for removing the light later, and for being able to wire the connections without the light being in your face.


What are the connectors for black irrigation hose called?

Home Depot calls them compression couplings. Here is an example.

And if you are looking for the type that go on the inside of the hose, it'll be called a barbed coupling or barbed connector.


Convert concrete stairs to limestone stairs

I believe it can widened if you connect the concrete pieces together (drill holes and add rebar between the two). Still, you may get a crack that would probably carry through any tile/grout you put on it.

I'd instead consider replacement of the concrete with a wider piece. Either prefabbed or poured on site. If you pour it on site, you could have the concrete stamped and stained to have that nicer look.

You could also consider doing wood over the existing and widen it as wanted. You will want to pay attention to the step height and the supports for the edges of the wood. If you don't want the maintenance, composite decking would work for that.

I'd also consider a railing regardless. Tile if used can become slippery when wet and if you live anywhere snow/ice can occur it could become an unpleasant ride down.


Squeaky sounds from our GE dryer. Is this the dryer belt failing?

Belt and/or rollers (that support the drum as it rotates). Commonly available as a kit of both, often for barely more money than either alone, and the major pain is getting in there to replace them, so just do both is my usual approach.


How would I install hydronic floor heat on top of a rigid foam insulated basement floor?

For a ThermoFin U extruded aluminum heat transfer plate installation on concrete, you would build a surface to be able to screw the plates into by first putting down a layer of Atlas Rboard®, recommended 1/2", which you should be able to get from your local building supplier.
A Google search on Atlas Rboard® will bring up their site and the product info.

On top of the Rboard® put down a layer of plywood. The fasteners will hold best if you can use 3/8" plywood. It will work with 1/2" plywood if necessary.

Keep in mind that you want the heat energy to be going into the sleepers and the finish floor, which is why we recommend the Rboard®.

The energy without the layer of insulation will be drawn into the concrete, and the response time would be longer in heating the floor. Heating up the mass of concrete is not necessarily a good thing when you want the entire surface floor to be warmed.

Radiant Engineering aka Radiant Design & Supply has decades of success with ThermoFin U and ThermoFin C installations in North America. Install ThermoFin U with the fins facing down for wood finish flooring. For tile or stone, install with the fins facing up. The sandwich of aluminum and plywood provide an evenly heated surface that is friendly to finish flooring installation. ThermoFin U specs are .050" gauge, width 4", length either 4 ft or 8 ft, tubing channel size either nominal 1/2" or 3/8".


can i use a sheet of 26ga aluminium instead of a 1/16" steel plate?

The Code specifically indicates clearance from the edge of a framing member. It makes no mention of clearance between studs.

From the NEC:

  300.4 (A)(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (11⁄4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm (1⁄16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring.

Ask the inspector to cite the specific section of the Code that he is using to require you to do this.

If they are going to require it they need to cite it.

Good luck!


Nope. The seals in the window have failed, allowing moist air between the panes. This window has lost a lot of its insulating properties and the glazing needs to be replaced. Talk to the owner.


Furnace continously shutting down due to lost or low flame sense (Rheem)

I'd definitely correct the slope regardless, you may be able to use a pry bar and shims if you're carful. The gas valve can only deliver what it's given. Gas line sizing is a pressure/distance/capacity/diameter relationship. @7"water column (normal delivery pressure, at least where I live) a 120mbtu furnace with 50' of gas pipe between the meter and gas valve will require a 3/4" black iron gas line. 50' of 1/2" will only deliver 95mbtus. You have to allow for anything else like a water heater or stove. Tankless water heaters are usually 150-200mbtus.

It's hard to say what the problem is without seeing it, but it seems like you've explored other potential problems already. It could be a combination of issues too.

P.S. Pipe size is measured by the internal diameter. 1/2" pipe is actually about 3/4" outside diameter.


Should I resurface these kitchen cabinets or throw away?

It really depends on the quality and condition of the cabinet boxes themselves and what you want to do.  If they are decent cabinets and you just want to change color, you can just paint them if they are in good condition.  The lifespan of painting depends a lot on the quality of the paint job.

If you want something more choices, like a wood grain, that can be achieved too through refacing.  I would only recommend this if you have good cabinet boxes underneath.  Wood cabinets from a custom shop or high end production cabinets would be worth keeping.  You can order veneers that can be adhered to the frames and sides and doors, drawer fronts and drawer boxes can be ordered from a number of online suppliers and the process is not too difficult if you take your time and pay attention to details.  The prices range widely depending mostly on what you want.

If it turns out the boxes are cheap production particleboard cabinets, then you would probably be just as well off replacing them especially since you are replacing the top as well.

Hope that helps and good luck with your project!


Generator supply not working with Automatic Changeover

Neutrals are not the same!   The factory certainly would not have wasted money on separate neutral terminals if they were not necessary.

It needs to be hooked up according to the instructions for that unit.  In my country that is the law.  Why? Because the unit is only safety tested/certified for correct configuration. A wrong configuration could be dangerous.

It sounds like whoever hooked it up did not follow basic instructions.  Don't let them do any more work on your house!


How can I dry out a soggy floor in my kitchen?

You could pick up a dehumidifier and set it up in your kitchen. That will allow you to control the moisture level and speed up drying time.


Could this wall material contain asbestos?

Nope. It's fiberboard. And, it's too late anyway as your lungs are now already permanently damaged if it were...a warning to all that you should always wear a dust mask (preferably N95 grade) for any demolition work. And Yes, dust-off, brush-off, blow-off or shake-out your hair and clothes only upon reaching the outdoors.


What do I do with a 1 11/16" gap when installing a new pre-hung door?

I assume you have a two piece split jamb pre-hung door. It's expected that these will be smaller than the rough opening, you need room to make the door plumb and level. Here's the install steps off the top of my head and my own personal best practice:

Check your width of the rough opening to ensure the trim will cover any gaps left, this is the main concern with the width. If the gap is over an inch, you can add a plywood filler strip to the side opposite of the hinges. A 3/4" to 1" gap is useful for adjusting plumb.
Check the plumb of the rough opening to determine if the door needs to sit on one side or another, and if it needs to be pulled out from the top. The first priority is to roughly identify where the top hinge needs to be to allow the rest of the door to remain plumb and level.
Separate the two parts of the door (along the split jamb) and set aside the half without the door attached.
Place the door in the rough opening, add shims to the top to make it level, and screw the top of the door into the header with trim head screws through the shims.
Check the hinge side of the jamb for plumb in both directions (side to side and in/out) with a long level or a plumb bob, add shims near the hinges where necessary (often installers will try to get the hinge side as tight to the rough framing as possible) and screw the jamb through the shims into the jack stud. You'll want a few screws near the top hinge for stability. Work from the top to the bottom of the hinge side of the door, double checking for plumb as you go.
Close the door, add shims until the gap between the door and jamb is even. You can double check for level, but the priority on this side is a consistent gap. You want to door to strike the stop at the same time on the top, middle, and bottom. Screw the jamb through the shims into the jack stud from top to bottom, double checking the gap between the door and jamb/stop as you go.
Cut off any shims that protrude past the finished wall surface.
Insert the second half of the split jamb. Finish nail through the stop to hold it in place, add a few trim head screws where your shims were located. This piece carries no load, so you don't need much.
Finish nail through the trim on both sides of the door to hold it tight to the wall surface.
Spackle, caulk, and paint.
Install door knob, strike plate, and any other hardware.


If you search the web for "repair manual" plus the model of your drier, you may be able to find a copy of that, or a site which will sell you a PDF if it for a few bucks. That will give instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble the drier. To access the timer, that's usually a matter of pulling the knobs off and loosening some screws on the back so you can remove the faceplate -- but it's a lot more comfortable when you're sure which screws to loosen.

Actually diagnosing it and fixing it is probably best done by unplugging and dismounting the timer from the drier and working with it on a bench, if you're comfortable dealing with house current and figuring out which leads power the timer unit and which ones get switched on and off by it. There are websites which discuss that too. You're lucky that this appears to still be a mechanical timer; if it had electronic controls they generally are pulled and replaced as a unit rather than trying to diagnose them.

If you're lucky, it might just be that the timing motor has failed. If so, that's usually a standardized part and may be attached with screws and thus be replaceable. The hard part would be determining what speed and direction and output gear is needed; the manual may have that info. I'd start by seeing whether the motor turns at all; if not I'd dismount it, apply power to it, and see if it now turns; that will tell you whether the problem is a failure in the motor or the gear train.

The manual may, or may not, tell you enough to test this properly. Sometimes there are interactions where other connections have to be powered or not powered, eg if the drier has a moisture-sensing cycle. (There's usually a straight timed cycle; that will be simplest to check out.)

Basically: If it's already dead, there's no reason not to play Dr. Frankenstein and try to bring it back to life... but ONLY if you're sure you can do so safely. If in doubt, finding the right replacement timer and swapping it in, as @Mazura suggested, is comparatively straightforward and might still save you the labor costs.


How do I shut off the water to my apartment?

1) Have a look under the kitchen sink. If OZ practice follows UK practice, this is the place in a home where you expect to find the main stopcock (regardless of whether it's the point in a home nearest the road etc). It's usually hidden behind a bottle of bleach you'd forgotten you have.

Whenever I change taps I install an isolating valve under the basin (builders leave them out to save money) so that I can subsequently work on a basin without emptying the cupboard under the sink and warning the family to cross their legs for a while.

2) Ask a neighbour


I'm afraid that it's more of a hardware question, but I'm offering you a DIY answer :)

How about light instead of sound?

Install some simple fixture on the wall (or desk) where you are sitting (beside the PC?) most often, put the red bulb (or whatever color you like and can make you notice easily). The wiring shouldn't be hard to guess, but if you're not really into this, you could ask another question (or modify current question) to make it work. Simple and easy. And it will not force you to make any changes regarding USB ports and signal capture.

The weakness of this solution is that the light needs to be noticeable - in case you go to a toilet or something, you may lose that.


Shower valves normally have a mechanism for adjusting the maximum water temperature under the handle.  You'll have to consult the shower valve's manual for specifics.  If you don't have the manual, here's a picture of a typical shower valve. The red part of the valve is the temperature safety.  It is located under the shower handle and you rotate it to adjust the temperature.

Update:  This document seems to describe the procedure to adjust the temperature of your shower.  It looks relatively complex, but doable.


You don't need a 'split door' but rather just two narrow pocket doors. A pocket door is just a regular door hung on a rail system. Buy two narrow doors, two pocket door rail systems, and you should be good to go.


Outdoor faucet leaks when hose is attached

Use a proper size box wrench to remove or tighten part #3 (the packing nut). Grip the body at the spout with a medium size pipe wrench and apply force opposite the force of the box wrench so there is no net torque on part #10 (the adjustable flange). This will allow you to exert maximum force on the packing nut without the danger of ripping the flange out of your house.

The packing nut holds part #4 (the packing) in place and also compresses it to a watertight fit around part #6 (the shaft). Since you don't know the age or condition of the packing, you should replace it.

Also, while you have the faucet taken apart, clean and polish the part of the shaft that will be gripped by the packing. A rough surface here will quickly destroy the new packing.

You may be able to stop the leak by just tightening the packing nut. My experience is that unless the packing is fairly new, this fix will be only temporary.


Does the NEC define a "dining room"? 210.52(B)(1)

Regs are designed to account for common usages and provide safe levels of service. Dining rooms often use hotplates or coffee makers that might need higher amperage. A 20 amp circuit requirement attempts to account for that.

There is no use inspector who comes in after your construction to make sure that you follow convention. But houses that do not meet basic expectations are harder to sell, and often result in a compliance problem when they are sold (No closing until we get a new certificate of occupancy!)

That argues for equipping rooms in compliance with what the typical inspector would expect. Most inspectors would think that the room in question was a dining room (since most people would have one in that location). I would wire it as a dining room, but use it as I saw fit. Wiring to a higher standard is never frowned upon, and only costs a bit of wire and a little time, and may avoid headaches down the road.

And, who knows, you may want a dining room and a hotplate someday?

SUPPLEMENT:
After reading Ed Beal's answer, I am inclined to agree so long as there are no countertops in the room in question.


How to brightly light an entire backyard area with only one electrical box?

Short answer to your question no. I don't know why or how you came to need a 10,000 lumen LED but that would be the equivalent of a 250W High pressure gas type lamp. The E26 lamps are manufactured to replace an incandescent, edison base fixture. They do make retrofits for 10,000 lumen lamps but they would have a mogul base and be ballast driven.

The largest medium (edison) base incandescent manufactured is 500W which is about 6500 lumens so there would be no need to manufacture an LED retrofit any larger than that. Not saying someone might claim to have one but I would be highly sceptical.

Hope this helps.


How can I connect two plumbing vents in a horizontal run?

The product you want is called a Vent Tee and they are made in PVC.  If they're not stocked at your local home improvement stores, check a specialty supplier (locally or online) and you'll definitely find them.
Keep in mind the vent needs to be able to drain water (condensation, rain, etc.)  Horizontal vent runs should follow the related minimum slope requirement -- usually 1/4-inch per foot, like drains.


I had an issue like this once in a different application. What I did was add a washer under the nut, from the back side. You can usually get a thin rubber washer to stretch around the flare and inside the nut. Other options would be to make sure the nut isn't broken or been over tightened to many times causing scratching and scoring either on the nut or flare surface, or the flare being squished to many times and flattening it out or bending it strange. You could possibly even put a rubber washer between the flare surfaces of each pipe.


Techniques for putting ends on RJ45 connectors easier?

I'm not aware of a tool but I'll give my tips.

General Process

Strip the jacket 2-3 inches back. Jacket strip tools are great for this:  a knife works but it takes longer and you're more likely to nick a wire (= start over) or accidentally cut yourself.

If you're using a boot, install it now.
Splay the wires out, unwinding them, and start lining them up in order as you go. Try not to unwind any further back than you've stripped the jacket. Hold them tightly and flat with one hand while you do this.

Keep holding the wires flat, but with your other hand, flex them back and forth a bit to get them 'seated' (to relax in this position). The idea is when you let go, they'll stay lined up and barely move (but don't let go until you cut them). This is much easier when you're using solid conductor cables (mainly in-wall type cables) as opposed to stranded conductor (used for patch cables).
Use a pair of side cutters to trim the wires to the correct length, about 1/2". Do this in a single cut, and make sure it's a straight cut so all the wires are the same length.
Push the wires into the connector.  This is basically the first time you let go since lining them up. You want the wires to go to the very end (red arrow), and the jacket to be seated underneath the block that crimps down onto it (blue arrow).

If the jacket is cut too far back, the connector won't crimp onto it, and the only thing holding the connector on will be the wire connections. While it might work for a bit, these wires are easy to break, sometimes in a non-obvious way because only a single wire fails.

Use a tester to verify it's good. The ones with indicators on both ends can be had for tens of dollars. It's much easier to fix if you find out it's wrong immediately, plus it helps teaches immediately what you're doing wrong.

Another tip:  don't crimp them if you can help it! :)

Punchdown blocks on patch panels and keystone jacks are easier to do properly (especially for cat 6), and can make a nicer installation.

Patch cables (any short-ish run that doesn't go through the wall) are cheaper to buy assembled than you can buy the parts for (even with bulk cable and connectors and valuing your time at $0/hr), and the cables are better than what you can do by hand. Since stranded cable is also harder to assemble, avoiding assembling patch cables means you avoid stranded cables.

That said, many years ago in the late 1990s I spent an evening watching TV and creating a couple dozen ~1.5' patch cables for my dad's office network, and that was a pretty good crash course. Since then I've rarely screwed one up. :)

Really, it's just practice. For example, I'm a non-pro, doing a few cables/ends here and there, and every few years it seems I do a bigger job like networking a house, but then I go months between doing anything. I can crimp an end in under a minute for sure, and faster as I get back into the swing of it.


How do I access the light in this recessed can?

The shroud around the bulb should just pull down and out a few inches before the tension wires lock.  If it seems really solid then someone probably painted then replaced before drying and glued it there with the paint. Try using a flat scraper or 5in1 between ceiling and ring.


What is a wall called which has plywood installed behind the drywall?

I don't know that there's a name for the wall as a whole. The sheathing is something I'd simply  refer to as "backing", as in "this wall has integrated support backing". It's also commonly done with lumber fit between studs as needed.

There are walls with integrated plywood that are part of the structural design. They're known as "shear walls" and they provide diagonal rigidity, often in earthquake or hurricane zones or in larger buildings. That's not what we're talking about here, though.


Your green wire from the fan gets connected to the bare copper wire from your ceiling box. Then connect the white wire taped with the blue to the white wire taped to the black to the white wire from your ceiling box. Then connect the red wire from your switch to the black wire from your fan and connect the blue wire from your fan light to the black wire coming from your other switch.  The remaining red and white wires from your fan fixture are for the night light which you would need another switch to operate it


What size should power wires be to run big appliances?

In the UK,

Copper                  Circuit
Wire size      Breaker  Type        Example
-------------  -------  ------      -------------------
1 or 1.5 mm²   6A       radial      lighting circuits.
2.5 mm²        16A      radial      immersion heater.
2 x 2.5 mm²    32A      ring-final  13A sockets.
6 mm²          32A      radial      7 kW electric shower, cooker.
10 mm²         40A      radial      9 kW electric shower.

A 2 mm² wire is insufficient for a 18A load in the UK. I believe some countries push the limits further - I'd check local regulations.

In the UK, you also have to downrate wire (i.e. reduce breaker size in amps) depending on how the cable is installed and on its length.

            Current Ratings in amps

                     In       Clipped to
Wire Size  In Wall   Conduit  Surface
---------  -------   -------  -------
  1 mm²       11       13       15
  1.5 mm²     14       16.5     19.5
  2.5 mm²     18.5     23       27
  4 mm²       25       30       36
  6 mm²       32       38       46
  10 mm²      43       52       63


Turns out the controller is working correctly again after leaving it unplugged for a day. It is possible it went haywire after getting wet from one of the adjacent sprinklers that was misadjusted. I adjusted the sprinkler and put a plastic bag over the controller until I can replace it with a proper outdoor controller model (as the previous owner used an indoor model with no cover.)


Why is water only coming through the handheld hose?

You are correct in the fact that water is always present in the hose.  When you turn on the faucet water gets sent through a diverter valve, this valve splits the flow of water between the faucet and the hose.  It detects changes in pressure and adapts the flow accordingly.  If water is not flowing through your hose and it does not go back to the faucet then you most likely have an issue with your diverter.


12/2 connected to 8/3 wire with extra wires taped off. Is this legal?

As a tap to a second building with no sub panel NO It would not be legal.
The term tap usually means connecting a smaller conductor to a larger feeder and there are some cases where a tap is legal but not here with the info provided.

Maybe it’s legal if this is spliced not tapped if the breaker feeding the 8-3 is 20 amp it probably is ok

(they may have run larger wire to reduce the voltage drop) If the breaker is any larger than 20 amp it is not legal any size breaker larger than 20 feeding this would need a sub panel at the shop/shed sized for 20 amp max because of the 12 awg.

Updated for OP update.  First if “normal wire” like Romex from the splice it is not legal from the splice. prior to the splice a 15 amp breaker the ampacity is fine and the breaker could be larger, voltage drop is not a hard code issue it is a recommendation in the form of a fine print note not enforceable.
My concern is the type of cable. Back to the home if UF it has 4 conductors but 1 is capped with a wire nut.

If it were me I would get some 8-3 with ground UF and a proper inground splice kit.  Extend the feeder to the shed and terminate in a minimum of a 50 amp main breaker sub panel. Drive a new ground rod and connect it to the sub.
Upgrade the 15 amp single pole to a 40 amp double pole. Used the capped wire and the wire on the 15 amp breaker in the main panel to feed your sub panel.
You asked if the “taped” connection was legal, I would guess it is not because it would need a listed in ground splice kit, these are fairly simple some have 4 butt connectors with an insulator that shrink tubing with an adhesive sealant (very inexpensive. Others are higher in cost where the splices are staggered with butt splices and each connection is sealed with shrink tubing with the adhesive sealant , the last type is the most expensive but the splices are made a plastic structure goes around the cable and epoxy is mixed and filled into the plastic and let dry (most expensive)  I use all 3 types and in your case if the box is not always under water go with the least expensive and it will be fine.

So upsize the splice, add your new panel and new ground rod and you will have a nice service, 8 awg wire 125’ is 2.88% voltage drop at 40 amps so you don’t even have to worry about voltage drop.


How do I wire LED lights directly from the panel?

What watt power transformer should I be using?

You can use a power supply like the one pictured, rated for the amount of LED's you will be driving.  Read the specs on the lighting.  They should tell you how many watts per a given length of the strip.  So if it says, for example, that needs about 1 watt per meter, then a 15-foot section would require a 5 watt power supply.  Take your total length of 76 feet, and divide by the strip's requirements.  It wouldn't surprise me if you ended up somewhere in the ballpark of 20 to 30 watts.

  Can I run 14 gauge wire directly from a circuit 15 amp breaker to the transformer?

No.  You can't put the power supply inside the wall, and you can't bring the wire out of the wall without going through a junction box.  The best way to do this is to put a cord on that power supply, and plug it into an existing outlet.  There is no need whatsoever to add a new circuit or connect these directly to a circuit breaker.

  Can I plug in all 5 circuits of LED strips on top of each other to the output of the transformer?

Yes, you can wire multiple strings in parallel at the power supply.  If the sections are short, you can also wire them end-to-end.  Double-check the specs for maximum length of a single run.

  Is this the recommended way of doing what I'm trying to accomplish?

The recommended way is to plug into an existing outlet.  If your lighting requirements added up to 1000 watts, you'd want a new circuit. At 20, 30 or 50 watts, it is ridiculously small in household circuit requirements.

  I would also like to add a on/off switch, do they make a wall switch for 12v?

Any switch can be used for 12v.  I would put the switch before the power supply.  Put a cord on the power supply like this cord with switch.

  Can low volt wires come right out of the wall, or do they need a junction box before being connected to the LED strip lights?

The low voltage wires don't need a junction box, but they do need a junction plate, like those used for phone jacks.


Can I use a hollow-wall anchor in between two nearby holes from previous anchors?

I'd advise against even trying. 22 lbs. is quite a lot for a single anchor, and the drywall between the two previous attempts is compromised. I'd not be surprised if it tore right out of a third hole.

Gypsum wallboard is fairly strong until 1) the paper facing is compromised, and 2) the gypsum material inside is disintegrated. After that, it's mush.

At this point you have some options, which I'd try in this order:

Ignore it for three days, then decide whether it's actually a problem.
Adjust or modify the mount on the clock to move its position instead.
Use anchors to mount a thin plate over and below the existing holes. Use an anchor through both the plate and the drywall.
Open the wall, install a horizontal backer block between studs, and repair the drywall and paint.


Can I convert a single circuit with multiple lights/1 switch to control 1 light/switch

First step is to identify the switch that the power comes in to. The other two switches will just be farther down the line. Disconnect all of those switches and put wire nuts on all of the wires individually. On the first switch, figure out which wires go to the lights and wire nut those to the incoming power wires. Now none of the switches control anything and the lights should just be on.

You can then get something like X10 screw-in adapters for the light fixtures.


How to configure my modern Tv to pick up broadcast channels?

Over the air (OTA) broadcasts are all digital now, so you will likely want to scan using the Digital tuner option, probably starting with "STD".

You likely will need an antenna.  antennaweb.org can help you select the proper type of antenna to get the most channels and provide some information on how it should be aimed.  I believe that most antennas will connect into the same connector on the TV that you used for the cable TV cable.

Once you get everything set, you should be very happy with the results.  The HD broadcasts that are sent OTA are very high quality.


about NEMA 6-15 plug/receptacle for 240 V

That's a ground hole and goes to the ground bar

The NEMA 6 is a "hot-hot-ground" that supplies 240V exclusively.  So, the U-shaped ground-hole on the receptacle is connected to the yoke and in turn, the green ground screw on the receptacle, which needs to be wired to the ground bar on the subpanel.


How should I fix a previous owners mistakes in this bathroom? (see pictures)

I don't see the mold you're talking about, but my go-to is straight industrial bleach, available at most home centers and hardware stores. I apply it generously (read - dripping wet soaked) with a spray bottle. Give it a couple hours, spray it again.

Repeat until all mold is visually gone.

Get rid of that insulation too. Might be harboring some of the mold spores.

...and, of course, only do it in well-ventilated area, blahblahblah, and so forth....


What type of heating system would you recommend?

I always had the impression that hot water baseboard heat was the best, or the modern equivalent, radiant floor is the best. Since it does not warm by moving air, it does not dry out the room as bad as forced air.
Radiant won't mess with furniture arrangements, whereas base heat may keep some items off the wall. Electric base heat and forced air may yank furniture placement too. Unless you don't mind the inefficiency of the system it creates. If you block electric base heat with furniture, that is not only inefficient, but a fire hazard too.


Proper way to route new wire through existing exterior wall

If I were you, I'd invest in a fiberglass rod or wall-fish tape. The process to get the wire down is that you will cut a hole for your drywall box and then use the rod/tape to push the wire down inside the wall (use electrical tape to lash the wire to the tape/rod). The hole should provide you enough room to get your hand inside and grab the wire. Then disconnect the wire, pull your tape/rod out, put the wire into your box, attach the box to the drywall and you're set.

The kraft paper on your insulation should be on the exterior wall so it shouldn't be an issue on an inside wall. The wire will be inside the insulation and loose.


AAC (aka Aircrete, Thermalite) wall + IKEA ALGOT shelf weight load capacity

Here you go - Multiply the number of brackets by the safe load of the bracket to determine the safe load capacity for the entire shelf. For a shelf that has three brackets rated for 250 lbs. the safe load for the brackets is 62.5 lbs., and the capacity for the shelf, as a whole, would be 187.5 lbs.  I was going to do the math but math.


The 20/30/30/20 (called a "quad" breaker) is created by coupling two tandem or "twin" breakers; a 20/30 and a 30/20.  In older panels twins will only fit in certain slots, because there were limits to the total number of circuits you could have in those panels. So only a few of the slots allowed the use of twins. On the directory sheet, usually glued to the inside of the door of the panel, there will be a difference in the way the breaker slots are shown, indicating which ones will accept twins.

The slots that will accept twins will also accept full space breakers, but not the other way around. So one thing you can do is to check your directory to see which slots you can use and if they have full size breakers in them, move those to other slots and open up the slots that will accept the twins/quad.

If there are no slots left in your panel that allow twins, then you have to either replace the panel, or add a "sub panel".


How to prevent static electricity build up?

Hopefully this is just a combination of the dry winter air with various materials in your environment.  You can get anti-static mats that are used for electronics work, perhaps they would make a decent mouse pad.  They also have wrist straps, but those would be a pain to take on and off whenever you want to get up.

A more universal solution is to get a humidifier for the home.  The humidity helps remove any build up.  But don't turn it up too high since you don't want mildew or mold problems, and you don't want to create condensation issues in the windows.

Beyond that, review what materials you have separating you from a ground.  I'm currently on carpeting, with a plastic chair mat, on a chair with plastic wheels and a fabric seat.  In the winter time here, I'm a shock hazard.  I may just try one of those anti-static mats.


Found cabling in junction box with ground cut

When you're extending old ungrounded circuits, Just randomly hooking up grounds higgledy-piggledy can create an interesting problem.  I call it "Islanded grounds".
When a device has a ground fault, it's going to energize the ground wire.  It's trying to return that ground fault to source (the panel and its N-G bond) so it can trip the breaker.
But imagine there is no ground wire back to source.  If the ground wire just stops there, then it energizes the chassis of the machine.
But what if all the grounds in a circuit extension are connected to each other (but not the panel)?  The "islanded" ground wire carries the ground fault around to all the other devices in the island. So now all their grounds are hazardous, even the cover plate screws on the light switch!  That's the very opposite of a safety improvement!
So someone extending a non-grounded circuit might do just what you see.  I'd prefer to coil it up and insulate it, myself, for the happy day the original wiring is replaced.


Can remodeling work around a window cause moisture / condensation problems?

Did the flashing repair involve removing/re-positioning the exterior trim/siding/sheathing?

If so, the simplest scenario might be due to the insulation being disturbed/removed.

You can check on the inside by moving a burning incense stick around the trim and window, which should reveal air movement.  If you find a "windy" area, remove the interior trim and add low E foam (low expansion) if there are any air leaks.


Integrating hard-wired smoke detectors with fire sprinkler waterflow sensing

I can't speak to the regulatory side of this, other than to say I'd be very surprised if a custom-built circuit like you're describing would pass an inspection just for the fact that it's a non-UL/CSA approved device on a life safety circuit. Being in a private residence at least will relax the requirements compared to a commercial or multi-tenant building, but connecting non-listed circuits and devices is tough in any case.

Rather than using a custom circuit, there are interconnect relays on the market that are designed for doing precisely this type of thing. For example, Kidde has a SM120X module that is designed to interface to external strobes/sirens/etc, as well as accept activation input for the interconnect circuit (using pull stations and rate-of-rise heat detectors as examples).

You should be able to use one of these and hook up your flow sensor in place of the pull station in the diagram above.

To me, it seems there is a low risk of impact:

This device is UL-listed
It's a manufacturer device, designed to interconnect with the manufacturer's own products
In this case, the signal between sprinkler and fire alarm is really a secondary system: if there is smoke, whether the sprinklers have activated or not, a detector should be activated and signal the other alarms anyway. In other words, if this device/connection fails in anyway, it is not critical to safety.


How many of these items does the electrician put in?

I know this is primarily opinion based but IMO it's appropriate for the site.

Here is my take: (mine in bold)

a. put in the orange tube for running future technology wires? Not standard procedure, but certainly a job for the electrician at added cost.

b. wire for cat 6 Ethernet cabling for hard wire computer connections? Not standard procedure for many, but certainly a job for the electrician at added cost. This is standard for me.

c. wire for coaxial for internet and cable? For me this is standard procedure.

d. wire for security camera? Not standard procedure, but certainly a job for the electrician at added cost.

e. wire for security system (creating your own, not using a security company). Not standard procedure, but certainly a job for the electrician at added cost.

f. wire the electrical portion of the furnace? Typically the electrician's job.

g. wire for 2 zones for the heating? If you mean the control wiring for me it's a toss up. Both HVAC contractors and electrician will do this.

h. install the venting for the bath fans? Typically the electrician, but some will leave it for the GC Or HVAC.

i. install over stove microwave/vented fan and do the venting? Typically the circuit and receptacle are the electrician. Installation and venting are GC.


Should a smoke alarm be installed in the attic?

FEMA writes:

  Few, if any, smoke alarms are Underwriters Laboratories
  (UL)-listed for use in the temperature extremes an attic can
  experience. Few, if any, codes require alarms in one- and
  two- family residential attics where nearly all (90 percent)
  of attic fires occur.

  — “Attic Fires in Residential Buildings”, Topical Fire Report Series 11(6), January 2011


Millivolt fireplace turns on by the thermostat but will not shutoff

The issue was the thermopile. I ordered a replacement and after installing it the thermostat control started working.


How can I accommodate newer washing machines with older drains?

Is there any significance to the second 2" pipe at the outlet side of the trap?

No. The vertical pipe downstream of the trap is either another drain coming in from above or a vent stack. It isn't involved with the capability of the 3" section to provide some surge capacity for the draining washer.
(Well, I suppose it does add a little bit of capacity, insofar as water can fill that drain/vent pipe up to the level of the opening at the top of the 3" section. So that's a little bit of surge capacity. But it isn't its primary purpose.)


How to attach a monkey-bar/playground structure to the ground in my backyard?

I put tie-downs in my driveway to guy down my boat canopy during the summer. I dug 2 foot holes, crisscrossed rebar diagonally into the ground, poured concrete, and sunk heavy duty eye-bolts with alternating nuts and washers into the concrete. I will be doing something similar this summer with posts, sinking them into concrete, with rebar through them.


Do multiple shower heads require multiple shower valves?

If you don't want both shower heads to be on at the same time everytime you take a shower, then yes you need 2 controls. If you don't care if both head are on, then one control will be fine.


What is involved in DIY swimming pool maintenance?

In my experience, most horror stories of pool maintenance are usually the result of neglect, or not paying attention to the instructions.  It's not that hard, but expect to spend an average of 10-15min per day checking on your pool, adding chlorine, clearing out leaves in the skimmer, etc.  Also, once a week, expect to spend some extra time brushing/vacuuming the pool and cleaning the filter.

As a first time pool owner, the simplest thing you can do is pick up a free pamphlet on pool care.  Follow the instructions in the pamphlet, and make sure you stay on top of it.  My Wal-Mart usually has pamphlets by HTH Pools next to their chemicals.

Start by getting a test strip kit.  You dip the strip in the water and compare the colored pads against a chart.  Pretty easy (unless you get into a fight with your wife about the shade of orange of the pH pad).

Make sure you pick a good test kit, which measures several properties of the water (should measure pH, stabilizer/CYA, alkalinity, hardness, chlorine).  Cheaper ones will only measure a few properties.

Measure your pool every day or so.  If the levels are off, adjust them by adding the appropriate chemicals.  Just follow the instructions on the container.  Most any chemical you need can be found at your local pool store, or Wal-Mart.  Beyond that, I'm not going to repeat what you would find in the pamphlet. (Did you get one yet?)

One bit of advice that wasn't in a pamphlet:  If you buy "stabilized" chlorine products, they will raise the level of stabilizer/CYA in the pool.  If your CYA levels are already high enough, the stabilized product can push your levels over the top.  If you aren't sure if the product is stabilized, look for the words Dichlor or Trichlor in the ingredients.  Un-stabilized chlorine is usually Calcium Hypochlorite or Sodium Hypochlorite.

Beyond the chemicals, there will be some "mechanical" maintenance/care:

Dirt, pollen, and algae will naturally collect in all the crevices  of your pool, so use a pool brush to break it up.  Regular churning of the water (from brushing or swimming) will give the filter an opportunity to suck up the debris before it settles.
You will need a vacuum (manual or automatic) to suck up non-floating debris.  48 hours before vacuuming, shock the pool to make sure any algae is dead.  24 hours before vacuuming, add some clarifier to make the algae and dirt settle on the bottom (where the vac will get it).
Make sure your filter is clean.  There should be a pressure gauge on the filter that will indicate when too much crud has built up in it (pressure levels will go up).  At that point, you need to clean it.  Some filters are cleaned by backwashing.  Others have a cartridge that needs to be changed.  The filter should come with some instructions on how to care for it.
Check the strainer baskets in your skimmer and pool pump.  Larger debris like leaves and large bugs will collect there.  Periodically shut off your pump and scoop the crap out.
A plugged filter or strainer basket will strain your pump, and maybe cause a burst hose (very bad).  So, keep the water path clear.
If you have cold winters, make sure you follow the instructions on winterizing the equipment.  I disconnect my pump and bring it indoors every year.


Can I extend icemaker line by joining two braided lines?

"Would you do it the same way or would you go copper?"

I would run 1/4" copper tubing from the shut-off valve at the water source all the way to the wall behind the refrigerator; that line I would then consider a permanent install. This is especially appropriate if the line runs through/behind cabinets or other semi-inaccessible areas.
At the wall behind the refrigerator I would install an inline valve (to provide a quick local shut off capability) and transition to braided stainless-steel jacketed hose.
NOTES:

copper tubing compression fittings are pretty reliable
any hose (braided line is just a hose...) should be used only in areas where a leak could be easily noticed and the hose easily replaced
valves are often the weak point; do not use a "saddle valve" at the water source, and expect to replace any in-line valves, especially needle-valves.


In apartments that I have renovated it is standard to install metal channel furring strips.  If you want depth you cross these with 1x or 2x4.  The channels you glue and screw into ceiling.  The wood is screwed into the channels.  There are plenty of LED lighting kits that are sold now that can fit into 2-3 inches of space (remember you have the drywall thickness too).

Just to add some clarity we use channels that look an awful lot like

The difference is ours has preset holes on the lips for drilling, the lips are a little wider and I am pretty sure it is a thicker gauge than this.  Do not use the cheap/thin metal furring strips from big box.  They might work for concrete walls but not ceilings.

Also to give more detail:

We install these every 12-16".  12 if doing 2x lumber which I think we have done once.  The installation is dependent on the type of concrete.  Often the owners of the property have told us what other have used and we follow that.  Most of the time it is tapcon with semi-predrilled holes.  Note that the strips should be glued before being drilled.  Also note that the stronger the glue the more chance you take out chunks when uninstalling - that's a different question though.  For the screws practice before you go in with a plan.  Don't buy 300 of a type of screw and then find it will take 20 mins per screw doing it that way.  How many screws you need is dependent on the flatness/shape of concrete and how well the furring strips have contact.  Most installs I have done were two screws on the ends and then stagger sides every 12-16".  A 20' strip might have just 15ish screws.
We leave a small gap (1/8th") on each wall and try to run them the entire length.
We then install L channels on the two walls that hold the ends.  We try to get a very thick gauge and hammer L channel up so that it is effectively holding the channels.


Can I put plywood over the drywall on the common wall between my house and garage?

I think I am accurate in saying this.... As long as you keep the drywall layer at the house/garage, and do not damage it in any way (screws ok) you will not compromise the fire rating of the original sheetrock. The drywall at that wall is a requirement for fire safety, it is typically a thicker, 5/8", and fiberglass reinforced to withstand a potential fire in the garage for a time before it spreads to the house.


Second layer of drywall on textured ceiling: Do I need to sand down or remove the texture before second layer goes on?

The point of Green Glue is to create a flexible layer of never fully firm glue between layers of drywall, right?  To absorb sound?

In which case, I think you'll need to first level the ceiling, then apply green glue, then apply your final layer.

Otherwise, if you green glue over top of the texture, you'll have high points in the texture that touch the new layer of drywall.  That will transfer sound quite effectively - which you don't want.


How to Replace Old 1/4" In-Line Copper Water Filter?

It appears to me that the copper tubing connected to the outflow of the filter is long enough to reach the saddle valve. ( upper right corner in Photo ? )

If that is the case you can eliminate the extra tubing feeding the inflow side of the filter and just go directly from the saddle valve to the copper tubing that is feeding the refrigerator.

You may be lucky and the threaded fitting on the outflow tubing will be the correct size and kind to attach to the valve.

The saddle valve could be a 1/4" OR 3/8" connection. If you turn off the valve and then disconnect the line from the valve to the inflow side of the filter you can then mark the valve end and the filter end  of the tubing and take it to the store so you, or the associate, can determine the correct coupler fitting to use to connect your existing fitting to the saddle valve. ( the inflow threaded fitting appears to be the same as the one on the outflow side. )

If it were me i would replace the saddle valve, they are notorious for failing due to corrosion over the long term.  This require shutting off your water removing the saddle valve, cutting out the puncture from the saddle valve and soldering in a Tee, ( or use a push to connect fitting ) Then put a 1/4 turn valve on the tee branch for the refrigerator and the correct fitting to marry to the threaded fitting on your exciting tubing that goes to the refrigerator.


Sure you can fix this, but I wouldn’t opt for the “shelf” idea.

Typically, in a post and beam foundation, all loads are transferred directly to the soil. Installing a “shelf” will put thrust on the foundation wall. Obviously the foundation is marginal and I doubt the wall is designed for any horizontal thrust.

You’ll be pouring several “pad” footings, so why not pour one near the foundation wall and eliminate the “shelf”?

Btw, Is the roof really sagging, or is that gutter installed in such a manner that it appears to be sagging. If you look close, you’ll see there’s about 1 1/2” of fascia board exposed under the gutter on the left side of the house, but about 3” exposed on the right side. (Although, that roof section on the far right looks like its sagging.)

Also, if we’re sagging very much where you have the arrow pointed, that window would be cracked/broken.

You’re lucky that it’s a one story house. The loads are easy to follow from roof, to walls, to floor, to footing.

If you’re located in a high seismic zone or high wind area, you’ll need extra holddowns so I’d contact a structural engineer or architect for help. Good luck.


How to finish around the inside of new windows after replacing old ones

Get some 1x4.  I'd go with primed fingerboard pine.  Cut to size and install against the metal frame of the new window.  Caulk, Paint.

I've installed windows and then completely hidden the window frame with interior trim such that you only see the trim I installed and the glass.  The frame that holds the glass is hidden with the trim that butts up against it.


How to install crown molding or valance board around a cabinet?

If the gap bothers you that much, you have a few options.
Fill the gap
You could fill the gap with wood putty, or color matched caulk. You'll still have a gap, but it will be difficult to see.
Remove material from the molding
You could remove a bit of the material from the back of the molding, to allow it to lay flat over the lip of the cabinet. This will likely make the mitered joint between the two pieces of molding look odd, as the bottom of the pieces will not mate.
Remove material from the cabinet
You could remove a bit of the material from the cabinet, to allow the molding to lay flush with the side of the cabinet. Depending on how far out the cabinet overhangs, this might also look a bit strange.
Learn to live with it
The easiest approach, is to simply learn to ignore it. Not many folks will notice it, and after some time you probably won't either.


Was the air handler running? Metal duct’s should be grounded but sometimes are not.
I have seen metal trunk ducting build up large static charges. In one case it was about every 12 seconds there was a snap quite loud.  The charge was building up and discharging to a water pipe.

The white noise could be the close proximity of the cable to the duct so the charge is building up quickly and discharging. This will be the case only if the air handler is running.

I would want to verify if it is static charges building that the duct gets grounded large static charges can hurt like &$%#.

If the charge is there without air flow I would be checking the electrical system (grounding, possible only ground the water pipe replaced with plastic) OR if there is a voltage on the cable.  The cable should be grounded at an inter system bonding point but if the main ground has failed this could have a floating voltage.


Code: How can a transfer switch not switch neutrals?

TL;DR: The lack of a switched neutral here has effects on other parts of the system

The presence of a single neutral wire here (which is carrying generator imbalance and providing a 0V point for the wattmeters) means that the generator is relying on the neutral bond in the panel, instead of providing its own. This is important because many portable generators actually come with a neutral bond installed by default (and would need their bond removed to work properly with this transfer switch).  Read on for details.

It means your generator is not a separately derived system

There are two basic configurations for wiring a standby generator.  Either your generator is a separately derived system, which means it provides its own neutral-to-ground bonding point, or it is not a separately derived system, which means it relies on the house it is plugged/wired into to provide the neutral-to-ground bonding point.  This is codified in NEC 702.11, by the way.

Most hardwired generators can be set up either way and left that way without too much difficulty; however, portable generators are pretty much always shipped with their own neutral-to-ground bonding point installed, so they can be safely used as a standalone source of power.  Some generator manufacturers provide instructions for pulling that bond for use  as a standby generator in a non-separately-derived system, but that means that the bond has to be reinstalled if you ever wish to use that generator   for portable power.

But, this fact has ramifications downstream

However, this is not without consequences elsewhere as well.  Many interlocked-breaker feeder-type and all select circuit manual transfer switches, as well as panelboard-type breaker interlock setups, do not provide the extra pole needed to switch the neutral between the two bonding points present in a separately derived standby system, limiting their use to non-separately-derived standby systems.  On the other hand, double throw safety switches can be readily obtained with the extra pole necessary to switch the neutral; there are interlocked-breaker manual transfer switches with a switched neutral as well, such as the Reliance Panel/Link X series and the Eaton CHGEN series.  If you have an automatic transfer switch, note that residential-grade ATSes almost never have a neutral pole of any sort; commercial-grade units are available with a switched neutral pole, but are generally not seen in anything on-topic for this site.

Furthermore, in a non-separately-derived system, all ground and arc fault protection must be downstream of the transfer switch.  This is problematic both at small scales, as some portable generators provide ground-fault protection on both their branch-circuit and their power receptacles and also because it means that ground and arc fault breakers have to be shuffled to a standby subpanel from the panel supplying the utility feeders (or can't be used at all in the case of a select circuit transfer switch), and at large scales, where it interferes with feeder/service equipment ground fault protection on high-current, three-phase, wye-connected feeders and services.

On the flip side, the fact the neutral is broken during the switching process can lead to concerns about voltage spikes with separately derived standby systems; as a result, some switching neutral transfer switches have features to overcome this -- either an overlapped neutral (commonly seen on higher end automatic transfer switches), or a sequentially switched neutral (typically seen on manual transfer switches designed with a dedicated switched neutral pole, such as the Panel/Link X series).


Your choice of 1-1-1-3 Aluminum is adequate. Most Level 2 car EVSEs only draw 30-32A continuous. A few years ago I dropped 2 gage Cu from my panel to my car charger spot. It was way overkill for my 32A ChargePoint, but just a couple years later and we have 40A and 60A EVSEs available. I could put two Tesla Wall Connectors on that wire and only need to upgrade the breaker. I future-proofed that circuit.

NEC Rules for Underground wiring

Under Driveways and Outdoor Parking Areas

Direct burial wire - minimum of 18 inches deep.
Rigid or Intermediate Metal Conduit — 18 inches deep.
PVC without cement encasement — 18 inches deep.

Under Buildings

Direct burial wire in an approved raceway needs to be buried 0 inches.
Rigid or Intermediate Metal Conduit — 0 inches deep.
PVC without cement encasement — 0 inches deep.

Otherwise

Direct burial wire — 24 inches deep.
Rigid or Intermediate Metal Conduit — 6 inches deep.
PVC without cement encasement — 18 inches deep.

Conduit?

Under your house you need to be in an approved raceway. That can be sheathing, if you buy wire that way and run it "in" the walls/floor. Otherwise it must be in conduit.

I wouldn't even consider skipping conduit. I like more protection for my underground wires than dirt and wire insulation. If someone is digging in my yard, I want him to hit the conduit before he runs his shovel or pick into the wire insulation. Since it's my yard, guess who that digger is likely to be?

The conduit fill table says you can get your 1-1-1-3 into 1-1/4". However, I would put them in 2". The cost difference for larger conduit is small and it makes pulling much easier. I'd also pull an extra pull cord in the conduit. Consider it a gift to the future owner of your home, which might be you!

Larger conduit also makes it possible to later pull bigger wires without digging. That garage panel might be the best place to plug in that new 120A mega-EV-charger, whole house battery, generator, and/or 20kW solar array. If you live in PG&E territory, these "someday" off-grid upgrades have recently moved up the priority list. For me, those potential future uses of the garage panel are the main reason to consider larger conductors.

Minor reasons to upsize your conductors is reduced voltage drop and less resistance. Larger conductors means less of the energy that flows through your meter to charge your car is lost heating the wires. Since EV chargers draw continuous loads for hours per day, the parasitic losses add up.


Can the high efficiency washing machine drain into the kitchen waste stack?

Firstly, disclaimers: I have no idea what rules might apply in the US, and I have also never heard of a "high efficiency" washing machine. I shall therefore answer from the point of view of practicality, and the assumption that "high efficiency" doesn't affect the water coming out of the washing machine's drain hose.

Size of particles: waste water from your washing machine presumably goes through a relatively small diameter hose. It therefore isn't going to have any problem going through your kitchen drainage stack (which should handle small pieces of food waste).

Type of water: waste water from your washing machine is going to have detergent in it. Just like water from your kitchen sink. I can't see any reason why the stacks would connect to different sewers, and therefore I can't see any reason why a national (US) or local (Boston) code would prohibit washing machine waste water from entering the same stack as kitchen waste water.

My experience: in the UK it is normal for a house to only have one drainage stack, which the bath water, toilet flush, kitchen sink and washing machine all discharge into.

In summary: I would find it very unlikely that you wouldn't be able/allowed to drain your washing machine into the kitchen stack.


Why am I getting 24 volts in kitchen outlets, unless TWO breakers are on?

This is a multi-wire branch circuit

aka MWBC.  This is a special arrangement for delivering two circuits' worth of power onto a single cable with only 1 more copper wire, because it is putting two opposite-pole subcircuits arranged so the neutral only carries differential current.  It's quite wire-efficient, but yours was installed quite improperly.  They pretty much did everything wrong.

Also the six GFCI receptacles were not original; they were added probably by a previous seller because the home inspector red-flagged it.  If you know anything about GFCIs, you only need 1 per circuit, but an MWBC is one circuit -- and the way they share neutral requires either one GFCI at the breaker, or a GFCI at each receptacle (expensive).

The first problem is that MWBC requires a handle-tied or 2-pole breaker.  You don't have one.  In fact, you haven't said, but you might even have the worst nightmare of MWBCs, which is a duplex breaker.

Fix the breaker... and revisit GFCI

OK, so the breaker needs to be replaced with a 2-pole breaker.  (you can do handle-ties, but those are a PITA to find, and a 2-pole breaker is available pretty much anywhere.)

However, remember where I said an MWBC can have either

one GFCI at the breaker... or
six GFCIs at every receptacle separately?

When you have more than 4 receps, it's actually cheaper to fit a single GFCI+breaker.  Around $20 each for six GFCIs vs about $80 for a 2-pole GFCI breaker ($90 if you want AFCI also).

The only downside of this is that a GFCI trip with receptacles will only trip the single recep (and you can reset it right there), but a GFCI trip with a breaker will knock out everything, which may be confusing and will send you on a trip to the basement to reset.  Your call.

But you need a 2-pole breaker.  Remember, breaker types must match the panel.  If the panel is Murray QP but the breaker is Eaton BR, the breaker is wrong and replace with a Siemens/Murray QP not a BR.  Alien breakers are dangerous and burn up panel buses.  This is especially important when spending $80 on a breaker!

If you currently have a duplex breaker (two handles in 1 space) then ask a new question about how to replace that with a 2-pole.

Neutrals need to be pigtailed

You didn't mention this, but the neutral wires in the boxes need to be spliced with a wire nut etc. and a single neutral wire brought out to the receptacle.

Removing a device must not sever power to the other half of the circuit.

However, it's perfectly OK to use the GFCI receptacle as a splice point for the hot wires.  Note that ALL these wires will go on the LINE screws (most accept 2 wires in back-wiring), the LOAD terminals will never be used here.


How can I remove superficial pet urine stains from subfloor?

I use Zep pet spotter, but it's intended for carpets, not wood.  I think mop it with a dilute solution of chlorine bleach to sanitize the area, then seal it with a primer / sealer to prevent any residual odors from escaping.


South Florida roof softit roof ventilation and of insulation batts

The distance to the wall isn't the concern. You need some space for airflow between the insulation and the underside of the roof. There needs to be a path for air to enter in the soffit vents and out the ridge vent, passing under the roof. They make baffles that you can install between the rafters and top plate of the wall if you are concerned about pushing the insulation too far back, these are commonly used with blown insulation. You do want the insulation as far over the wall as possible without blocking the soffit airflow. This creates a continuous insulation envelope around your home and avoids cold/hot spots in the corners.

See this blog post for more details.


Do some research on how to do a load calculation on a building, that should give you a good idea on what size service you need. Once you've got that, you can use tables and voltage drop calculations to determine wire size.

Here's an answer, that describes an easy way to calculate the load for lighting and general use receptacles. On top of that, you'll want to calculate the load for any additional items.  You mention an A/C unit. You'll want to check the nameplate on the unit, and add the A/C load requirements to your total load.  Do the same for any items that are larger than you'd plug into a typical wall socket.

This answer gives some good information about how to size the conductors, once you've determined what size service you'll need. This answer will show you how to calculate the voltage drop, so you can determine if you need to use larger wire or not.

If you can get your hands on a copy of the National Electrical Code, article 220 is a good place to start for information on doing load calculations.  NFPA offers free read-only access to the NEC, all you have to do is sign up for an account.


If your cables are running parallel to a power cable they will induce a small voltage on the line. The cable should have a ground wire at the entrance of the house this is usually bonded to a metal water pipe.
Verify that the cable ground is going to a well grounded place (metal Pipe or Conduit that is grounded). If you do not see a ground wire from the external cable box at the entrance to the house it was not installed properly, a ground needs to be added and that should eliminate your problem.


What is this thing that holds in a storm window called?

Double wing window screen clip ???

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Window-screen-clips-Window-screen-hardware-Window-hardware-Hardware/4294711068