Does electrical box have to be nailed into side of stud

If the box is not required to hold the weight of a light fixture it need only be securely fastened.

For example, you can get a 3-gang "old work" box designed to be attached only to the drywall. Which one you pick can have more to do with what cable is coming into the box: NM vs metal jacketed.

It sounds like you have access to the stud since you have removed the old box and expanded the drywall. The box you picked happens to nail to a stud rather far back. But there are other options. It may be difficult to reach the mounting points of a metallic switch box but you can nail into the stud with a metallic masonry box instead.


Should I be calling a plumber or someone from my water supply company to test for contaminents in my water?

If you are on a public water supply, there may be water test results already published on a quarterly basis.

If you are doing your own testing, generally an environmental testing company or consultant (rather than a plumber) - in many cases you can save money if you can follow directions carefully and take the samples yourself, for testing at their laboratory, rather than having a consultant come and take the samples for you.

If it's ONLY the one bathroom, it's more likely something in your pipes than in the general water supply.


Can I add four 20Amp circuits in a subpanel with a 10-3 feeder?

You have the ideal situation for adding a subpanel. Woo-hoo!

As @Philip points out, you can use any size subpanel you like. Get one that's bigger than the minimum, so you have plenty of room to work inside.

You can choose either a "main lug" panel, which does not include its own main breaker, or a "main breaker" panel. In the latter case, the breaker can be any size, as the feeder is already protected by the 30A breaker in the main panel.

If the panel is mounted outdoors, it must be an outdoor rated panel.

In my jurisdiction, a pair of grounding rods are required if the garage is detached from the house. If it's very close, you can probably share the same grounding rods as the house uses.

Be sure to keep the ground bus and neutral bus separate in the subpanel . They should only be bonded in the main panel.

Consider adding a 30A 240V recep right off your new subpanel where you can plug in heavy equipment on short notice.


Could be a defective thermocouple, a sensor to measure the temperature (either it can be too far away the pilot, push it close to it if the case, or is already defective, you could replace it).

You could also check the pilot tube, it can be blocked.


Gap between half moon window and lower windows

That is a very unusual installation.

The windows are made with a “flange” that is about 1 1/4” wide all the way around each window. The flange is made watertight to the window frame and is used to fasten (nail/screw) the window to the window opening.

Unfortunately, I see a few problems: 1) window flange cut off between windows, 2) no cover flange between windows, 3) lack of backer rod for sealant between windows, 4) weep hole plugged

1) The top window fits so tight to the bottom window that it appears it’s flange was trimmed off. (Hopefully, the lower window was installed first so the top window overlapped the lower window flange.) However, If the window is leaking, it wasn’t properly sealed between the two flanges.

2) Some windows are made to “fit together” in a pattern. When there are extra large openings, the window weighs too much to lift into place. So, the manufacturer makes a cover that clips into both windows to seal the space between the windows. Obviously, if this is one of those types of installations the clip has been lost.

3) It’s not the quantity of sealant but the quality of the installation. That is to say, the depth of the sealant should be about 1/8” to allow the sealant to expand and contract. The way this is accomplished is by using a backer rod. It keeps the sealant from filling up the entire space and is placed so the outside edge is about 3/16” from the face of the window.

4) It appears that the upper window’s weep hole is plugged with dirt, etc. The stops need to be removed and weep holes cleaned.

I can’t see the edges, top or bottom (sill) of the window so cannot make a determination on those issues. If they’re leaking too, (as you noted) the original installation was probably poor.

I’d recommend removing all the windows and using “peel-and-stick” paper along with new backer rod, sealant, etc.


Pool liner loose after hard rainfall - wait for it to re-seat itself?

A guy near me has a "well" next to his fiberglass pool which he pumps dry or down to some level. He told me the installer told him this was necessary to keep the pool from being lifted by hydraulic pressure.


Okay to bend plastic pipe/conduit with some tension to fit the trench?

Both are quite flexible in smaller diameters, so if it doesn't take significant effort to bend it, I think you'll be ok.

I would NOT, however, fudge the connections unless you want a failure down the road. Get fittings that match the route you need to take or dig the trench wider.


Is it possible to boost an electrical circuit for more current draw?

To directly answer your question: no you cannot "boost" a circuit.

Every wire has a voltage drop, and according to NEC it can't be more than 5% at the outlet. Voltage drop is proportional to the length of the wire, resistance (which is dependent on the size of the wire), and current. In other words, as your load goes up, so does your voltage drop.

If your existing wiring is just on the edge of either load or size, then the current may be going up enough that it's below the UPS threshold and thus the UPS is switching to back-up power because it sees it as a brown-out.

If the cable is too small (typical is 14AWG for a 15A circuit, 12AWG for 20A) then the only thing you can do is either increase the cable size, or run a new circuit (and really, you're not going to pull out the old cable and run bigger cable, it's just as much work to run a new circuit so you might as well do that).

If the load is too high (eg, you're close to 15A) then the only thing you can do is run a new circuit, or decrease the load.

You could start by using a Kill-a-watt or similar device to measure power consumed by your PC,  printer, TV, etc. This will help guide you to what is consuming too much power, and where (if you go this route) it makes sense to split the circuit up.

You mentioned lights; using LED or CFL bulbs may be a stop-gap to save some power, and is certainly one of the easier things you can do.

If it comes to it, there's ways to be creative about how to split the circuit up, without necessarily having to rip out a lot of drywall. You may be able to run a new cable halfway, and then splice in and split the circuit into two, starting from a light or receptacle. You may be able to find the wire underneath in the basement, and cut it and put in a junction box so the circuit from that point on is on the new circuit. It's hard to be specific here without actually being in your house.


How can I repair the carpet around a new shower?

Ignoring the fact that carpet in a bathroom is just a bad idea, I see two options:

Install a threshold to cover the gap

(source: abbey-carpets.co.uk)
You might be able to put down a new tack strip and stretch the carpet.  This will really depend on how large the gap is (you didn't say)

(source: homedepot.ca)


The wattage ratings are typically listed to reduce possibility of excess /heat/ buildup in the fixture.  If you want to use 3x 60 watt bulbs, consider replacing traditional incandescent bulbs with newer CFL (spiral) or LED bulbs.  Either choice will use much less electricity and also emit much less heat, staying within the safety rating for the fixture.


How can I fix a leak in the pipe coming out of my water heater?

The first thing to do is verify where the leak is occuring.  It could be occuring higher up and just dripping from the fitting (though it is very likely that it is the fitting leaking).  Dry the entire pipe off and then watch for water.

Assuming it is the compression fitting, the first thing I'd try is tightening it by 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn.  As gregmac mentioned in the comment, over tightening a compression fitting can damage it and cause leaks.  It could be that it is already over tightened in which case the damage is already done.

If this does not help you will likely need to replace the fitting.  I can't see what is above the compression fitting so I don't know if it can be replaced by itself.  There might also be damage (either corrosion, or just from the compression fitting being too tight) to the pipe where it meets the fitting in which case you'd have to replace a portion of the pipe too.

I would also be inclined to peel that tape off to see what it is covering.  If there are pinhole leaks this can indicate an electrical grounding issue.


Is there a way to "dull" new solid exterior stain?

Use some extra fine grade steel wool and lightly go over it.


How do you get the board foot of special shapes

Board foot is 12x12x1 inches, so 144 cubic inches, so calculate volume in cubic inches (see your geometery teacher/look up online) and divide by 144.

BUT!

If you want to know "how many board feet I need to buy to make (whatever odd shape of whatever volume)" you'll need to go back to rectangular prisms since lumber is sold in rectangular pieces. And even making rectangular pieces, some waste is expected getting from the rough lumber to the finished product.


According to current code GFCI are required.
They make units that can be wired dead face GFCI to feed devices not accessible. I have used these under 20$ units in 4 maybe 5 jobs that have passed code inspection on remodels.


Why does my Aprilaire 560 make clicking noises before starting?

If the 550 is like the 560, they use the furnace's blower and don't have a built-in fan.  In a typical setup (at least for the 550), when the furnace is generating heat, the furnace supplies voltage to the humidifier, which may activate if the relative humidity is lower than the setting on your humidistat.

You should be able to feel the solenoid click when it activates.  You can test this, with the furnace producing heat, by turning the humidistat up and down.  If you get the click, but no water comes out in your 560, and you're sure your water valve is on, it might be a clogged emitter.  They have a tiny pinhole that slows down city water pressure.  Mine is in the water line between the solenoid and the Aprilaire unit.  You can buy new or some people clean them out with a pin.


Skylights are pleasing because they fill the room with light which is reflected and diffused off all the surfaces in the room, whereas a typical ceiling lamp is somewhat unidirectional and lights the ceiling almost as much (or possibly more) than the room itself.

Uplighting from multiple sources is definitely a good solution for recreating the skylight effect. These could be floor mounted, or sconces hung on or cut into the ball. Uplighting on top of cabinets will cast light on the ceiling. You could also couple the uplighting with track-mounted wall wash bulbs.

Halogen lighting was often used for this sort of lighting but LEDs are becoming a better alternative as the prices drop. Good quality LED lighting strips and bulbs are much more low-heat and energy efficient than any halogen. In addition, most LEDs will last at least 10 years without replacement so they can be installed in areas that are hard to access. Traditionally, people consider the traditional yellow tungsten-bulb colors to be most comfortable, which is around 3000K (warm white), but this is not what you want to simulate sunlight. Actual sunlight is around 5000K and above and more of a bluish color (cool white). You will need LEDs around that color temp, or can be programmed to that. Approx 4000K can be a nice compromise. Ultimately everything depends on the existing color of the walls in the room, and the aesthetic you're going for.

As a note, the new lighting temp will probably be jarring at first as it's much colder than "normal" warm tungsten screw-in light bulbs. I would consider the LED uplighting as an accent to your existing lighting, so you can turn it off or dim the LED system so it won't be overpowering in the evening. Also, there are some LED systems now that are color-programmable and even controlled by a mobile app, so you can pick the white color temperature that appeals the most to you, or have it cycle though different color temps throughout the day, light real sunlight.

Experiment with some simple uplighting cans on the floor and in some uplighting and work from there... if you are thinking of spending "real" money, ask an interior designer or decorator for advice.

Good luck!


Why the huge difference in cost for Tankless vs Traditional Tank water heater installation?

It's mostly the gas pipe. A tankless water heater is going to need a 1" or even 1.5" pipe to feed it. Your current water heater probably uses a 1/2" pipe. The new pipe probably needs to come off the main trunk, and replacing it requires a precise gas volume calculation and gas plumbing work that is very skilled labor and not cheap. If your plumber can't do this work himself, he's probably subbing it out and you're eating the cost.

Secondarily, there's also the re-plumbing of the water lines to feed the new heater. The inlet and outlet ports are probably in different places compared to where they are on your tank water heater. By contrast, if you replace it with another tank water heater, the water lines are already in the right place, and all you need to do is connect the tank with flex lines.

Finally, the exhaust may be different, too. Particularly if you go with a high-efficiency model, it can't be exhausted through the current pipe that's likely going through the roof.


The inner section is definitely fiberglass, however the outer covering could be asbestos. I have worked on some industrial jobs where steam pipes were very similar. It should be tested to be sure. In 1 case they just painted the outer asbestos casing, in 2 others we removed all of it, big job and lots of safety gear and regulations.

With residential, in my area a homeowner can do the work but with commercial or industrial facilities, pros have to be hired, so it would be best to have it tested to know for sure so that safety or encapsulated processes can be taken to make it safe.


It appears that there's a screw just to the left of your green arrow that holds the box to the wall. If that screw is centered on the stud, then it's likely that the stud will actually be blocking both knockouts to the left and right side. i.e., you could get the knockout out, but there may not be enough room for the connector or conduit.
If that's the case, you'd want to go with a knockout on the right side of the box, directly into an elbow pointed at the wall. Run your conduit through the wall at that point, then decide if it's going to go into the back of a box on the other side or into the side like this one.
Other than that (and ensuring you don't exceed fill limits), there should be no problem with your desired method.


Invisible mounting hardware for a particular kind of wall unit

I think what you may be referencing is called a French Cleat:


How to safely clean/remove recent mouse urine stain in carpet

Unless you are in an area that has some known level of serious infectious agent in the mouse population, such as Hantavirus, you should clean it immediately by hand with whatever detergent you have on hand. I would clean it 2x with hot water with detergent and then rinse the detergent out. Then dry it with a hair dryer.

EDIT

See Yosemite Hantavirus incidents

You could follow the rinsing with some sort of sterilizing agent like vinegar or alcohol, which would then have to be rinsed out. Note that these might leave an odor which would persist for some time.

EDIT

You could spray some (white) vinegar on the spot, let it stand for 20 min and then clean it. I think hand cleaning would be fine for one small spot. Honestly some parts of the country are infested with mice and disease transmission is rare.


The short answer is maybe, it really depends on what it was affixed with and how thick the granite piece is.

The key to removing it (or anything) without breaking it will be to have multiple pry points simultaneously, or use a piece of wood (2x4) so that you are prying against the wood which can then spread the strain you are putting on the granite piece.  Now that said, if the whole thing was glued down with epoxy...thats going to be a challenge no matter what.

If you can send a picture of both the top and bottom side of the sill we can get a little more detailed.


Yellows should hold perfectly on #12.

Could be the conductor is not exactly #12, I've seen it happen, especially with foreign wire. IE: not made in North America.
Could also be that your crimper is out of adjustment, if it has that as you suggest.

Are you crimping in the correct area?

I will say, sometimes you can use blue terminals on #12 just fine and they do hold really well.


Why am I seeing only 30v across a light?

It is phantom voltage, which is a small voltage induced (capacitively coupled actually) from adjacent power lines.  (needless to say, those power lines need to be on.)  It's sorta like picking up radio stations except the adjacent power line is much closer, so the voltage is much higher.

On a 3-way switch, you have two parallel traveler wires in the same cable or conduit.  The 3/4-way switch complex changes which of those travelers is energized, and whether the energized traveler connects to the light.  Ideal conditions for phantom voltage being induced in the un-energized traveler.  So if the switch is off, you will see this voltage at the lamp socket.

That must be what you are seeing.

The voltage has no real energy behind it.  It can't do useful work, and if you connect even the smallest load, the voltage will disappear.  It can only be seen by very sensitive voltmeters such as the common commodity DVM.


Do I need a vent for extending a drain to a new bathroom addition?

You must have a vent above the vertical run for these drains. As drawn, water from your new work cannot draw air behind it from your existing work.

This is what vents do: draw air in behind draining water.

You could functionally combine all the new work drains as drawn into a single vertical vent, but remember that it needs to be able to draw air from above their combined drain line.

Depending on your code you may or may not be able to combine these into a single vent, but they will need their own vent.


I would not do this for exactly the reasons you've asked about:

1) By sharing the bathroom vent pipe, you're ensuring that at least half the gunk that's being spewed onto your porch is going to be spewed into your bathroom unless you can find and install some kind of one-way flapper between the new "Y" fitting and the bathroom.  If you do find and install such a thing, it's going to be difficult to keep clean and operational.

2) I'm assuming since you say "first floor" that you also have a second floor, in which case that's a long way to go to get up to the roof.  It's not such a big deal for the bathroom fan to vent up there, but that's a long way for lint from the dryer to be carried, and it's going to be more likely to collect on the walls of the pipe over that long distance.

Do you have a crawlspace or basement that you could run a new pipe through?


How do I find and eliminate a sickly sweet smell in my apartment with no obvious source?

Unfortunately nothing seems to work. I have tried an UV light, but no anomalous things popped out. I did not try an IR camera, and that's due to costs. The solution: move within the month. At this point it is the most economical. I have about a week left before I renew my lease, so unless something miraculous happens during that time I'll just rent a truck and find a new place.

Update: It's a been a long time since I posted this and have moved around quite a bit. I am pretty sure now that the smell was some form of smoked drug, like meth or crack, seeping in from a neighbor. I arrived at this conclusion after encountering a severely impaired individual on the train who smelled the same way... coincidence perhaps, but it fits the pattern


It should not be necessary to try to goop some type of sealer around the lower neck of the sink drain. Such solution may work but it is not the desirable approach when you consider that someday this assembly will need to come apart for repairs.

In looking at the assembly that you have I wonder if one or more things are at play here.

1) If the drain pipe tail was not centered in the neck of the sink drain and then had lateral force on it due to the down stream goose neck trap it could be forcing the gasket open on one side. Check that there is no undue large amount of sideways pressure on the lower part of this pipe assembly.

2) It looks like the gasket directly contacts with the face of the capture nut around the drain pipe. It is possible that by tightening the capture nut that it is putting a twisting force on the gasket that may cause it to "fold away" from the sealing edge of the sink neck.

3) It is possible that there could be a small crack or pitted area on the sink neck that keeps the rubber gasket from engaging 100% with the sink neck.

4) Sometimes the "rubber" used in this type gasket is made of a plastic material that is anything but rubber. Check at the local hardware store to see if they have another gasket that is more pliable. In some cases a silicon material may be better.


the upper (photo: lower) knurled (diamond pattern grip) ring drives the locking pins in and out,
to extend the pins tighten it.
it looks like the near-side pin is crooked, if you sort that out it should come loose.


Is there a way to reuse ADT's alarm sensors without using their central service?

This sounds like a fun project for a rainy weekend.

I have similar situation.  Bought a house that had an old alarm system in it.  The box is locked and I don't have a key.  The "control panel" still lights up and there is a "ready light" that glows whenever all of the sensors are "happy".

I'm thinking it would be easy to take one of the super-simple wifi enabled micro controller boards out there these days (like the photon/spark unit) and just set it up with IFTTT to notify me if that light goes out when I'm not at home.

Could theoretically make a low-duty-cycle battery powered one that would not even need any connection at all to the alarm system.  Just have the micro controller watch the LED with a light detector.


Simple two wire connection to a programmable Honeywell RTH6360 themostat. Have a 'C' wire in the 18/5. Do I still need batteries?

The manual says "C does not power the thermostat display or operations; batteries are always required", so there's no reason to doubt that.

Putting 3V on a pair of wires and running them to the battery terminals would probably work fine, but obviously it isn't intended and I have no idea if it's to code.

Less complicated options would be to just put batteries in there (they should only need replacing every couple years) or buying another thermostat that is intended to be powered by 24VAC from the R/C wires.


Two Fixtures, one Circuit. How does this work?

UPDATE:  As it happens, I finalized realized I had disconnected wires in a junction box in an adjacent closet months prior to noticing what I thought was a dead fan switch (enough time had passed that I didn't link the junction box to the switch).  Reconnecting the wires in the junction box solved the problem and allowed the previously useless romex bundle to now have a function (the romex is basically an extension to the switch box).  Thanks for all the help.


Feed back problem on FM Radio after new 100 amp box installed

Many small power supplies emit high frequency signals into the air or power line. Also LED bulbs have those issues. Sometimes turning the plug, helps - e.g. in case of schuko or Euro plugs. This can't be done with outlet systems  where the hot line has to be at a  fixed position.

Sometimes it helps to rotate the receiver by 90 degree. What nearly always helps is to enlarge the distance resp. to connect the loader and receiver to different circuits far from each other.
Also different positioning or grounding of the antenna might help.

The grounding wiring of the complete house/Appartment should be done in star form. Earthing/Ground Loops could easily catch any signals which then enter the ground of the receiver electronic.


Which material should I use for a whiteboard that would erase easily?

There is also white board paint, that you can use on a variety of surfaces.  Here is one example.  You can use this directly on walls, or on a board if you need portability.  There is also blackboard paint for use with chalk.


What can I do about electric code violations in a rental unit?

I had this same situation.  I made a (written) list of issues (with pictures) and gave it to the landlord.  When it became clear that the landlord would not fix them, I called an inspector.  It turned out that there was a completely different department overseeing residential safety inspection vs. building code inspection, but after getting that sorted, they gave the home a free inspection and gave the landlord a fine and deadline to fix the issues.  The landlord was understandably upset and asked us to leave, and we happily signed the lease-termination.  I maybe should have told the landlord that I was going to refer the issues to the city by such-and-such a date and this may have avoided involving the city and angering the landlord.  We probably would have been let out of lease under better terms, but there would have been no incentive for the landlord to fix anything and the cycle would have begun again with the next tenants.

I recommend you give the landlord every opportunity to fix your concerns, and seek a mutual lease-termination agreement if/when this fails.  Pay your rent!  If you don't and this goes to court, then It'll just end up looking like the you wanted out all along and used the safety issues as an excuse.  If the inspector condemns the place, and you are forced to move, then you can stop paying your rent.


What could cause a 5 year old valves to corrode so quickly

This doesn’t look like corrosion, primarily, but like buildup of minerals from small leaks. The valve’s thread may not have been sealed properly (or not been tightened correctly), hard to say under the buildup. The weld seems to be leaking a tiny bit – you could clean it with steel wool and put some talcum on it for easier observation.

JFTR, I agree that this is not normal after five years. I don’t know where in the world you live and if you could still demand a repair after five years, but this looks like sloppy work. That can happen in one or two places, but not all over the house.


Can I use a 60 watt Halogen bulb instead of a 100 watt incandescent bulb?

Yes. Outlets are rated for current draw (wattage) not brightness. If you have a more efficient bulb, the outlet doesn't know or care.


What size wire and breaker do I need for my shed/workshop?

You will not be using everything all at the same time. So I would look at the nameplate Full Load Amps of your largest load, probably the table saw, plus any other things that might be running at the same time, such as the dust collector,  lights and if the compressor is on a demand pressure switch, add that too because it might come one without you turning it on. Then add another 25% for good measure.


My pump is streaming water out of valve from underneath pressure gauge

It sounds like you have lost the air charge on your pressure tank, if an old tank it may need replacing,
try this it may give you some time , turn the pump off, use a bicycle pump to put air in the pressure tank there is usually a small valve like a car tire or bicycle has sticking out close to the top of the tank, fill to about 35 psi. You may have to open a faucet to get enough air in the tank but if the pump turns on at 40 35-38 psi air in the tank, if it turns on at 30 / 25-28psi in the tank will be needed.
Now turn your pump and see if it is working normally, if the pump motor turns on and off rapidly more air is needed in the tank so you will need to turn off the pump let more water out and add air, a air compressor can be used if you have one but a bicycle hand pump will work it just takes a while, I have seen old diaphragm tanks last a couple of years longer by just adding air a few times. Hope this helps.


How can I remove moisture and odor from wall insulation?

You’ll need to expose area, clean with bleach and let air out for a day before installing new insulation then  covering area.
Kind of hard to visualize w/ out photo.


The black is dust that is deposited by air leaks.

The best building framework is passive house and the perfect wall which orders your priorities.   The first is liquid water, the seconds is air, the third is vapor and the last is insulation.

If you've gone to the trouble to open all the exterior walls to increase your insulation, I am going to assume that budget isn't the top priority.

I'd get aerobarrier to give you a quote for air sealing.  https://aerobarrier.net

Once it was airsealed.  I'd go with roxul for insulation.  A passive house membrane like intello on the warm side of the insulation for moisture barrier.  Then drywall like normal.

Big project, good luck !


Replace faucet handles in existing bathtub

You will surely be able to remove the knobs without removing the faucet  valve body and  without removing the tub.

First examine the tops of the knobs and see if there are caps which pry off to expose bolt heads underneath. Remove these bolts (screws) and then wiggle the knobs off. You should be able to find other knobs more to your liking that fit the same shafts.


How can I shorten the end overhang of a countertop?

Formica you can either use a skill saw or jig saw to cut the overhang. Tape the line you are cutting in order to make a clean cut. Stay off the line 1/16th and take a belt sander to smooth the edge. I would suggest gluing another laminate edge on the cut side in order to have something to adhere the product.It may get hard to cut if it butts against the wall and may require removing the jigsaw base or using a sawzall

Solid Surface - (Corian) Carbide tip blade skill saw. Router with a straight bit in order to clean up the edge. The only problem is that you would need to take the existing cut-off material and glue it back on the exposed edge. You would have to purchase Corian glue somewhere. Please note that Corian can be refinished to look new again.

Granite -  Diamond cutting blade....leave this to the experts and call a granite company. They would probably remove that section of counter and take it back to their shop to cut and clean the edge. Or take it outside in order not to dust out the house.


Can I build a staggered steel stud wall?

Nope on all accounts, since it seems you're talking about big store steel studs. You would need to have Structural Steel Studs & they aren't store bought & must be part of a submitted, approved & continuously inspected building design. After all that, then most definitely yes on all accounts.


How can I attach cable clips to an outside wall?

The original solution turns out to be bits of hardwood doweling inserted into the wall, with the cable clips hammered into them.


This needs to be looked at by an Electrician as it looks like Vulcanized Rubber wiring (VIR).

This is a Fire Hazard !!!

Your house wiring insulation may be the cause of the light not working.

Vulcanized Rubber is what they used before the 60's to insulate house wiring and overtime  it can become brittle and break off leaving the wiring without  insulation.

dangerous old wiring- "Avoiding the perils of age"


Can I use an old 50 amp circuit that was previously used for an electric stove to feed a new sub panel in my garage?

To directly answer your question: yes, you can use a 50 amp breaker for another purpose.

Also, just to be clear, the total of all breakers in a panel can be higher than the main breaker protecting them -- it just means you can't have more than 100A being used at the same time. Most people don't generally use their stove, dryer, hot tub, furnace, table saw and have every light and electrical appliance in the house on all at the same time anyway, so usually this isn't an issue.

For your garage, you also need to be concerned about the size of wire, and physically getting it to the garage. There are lots of good questions on this that I'd recommend you browse through: https://diy.stackexchange.com/search?q=detached+garage+subpanel


How to find tinted covers for ceiling light fixture

You could try to change the color character of the LED light a small amount using an alternate diffuser cover or by adding color filter sheets as mentioned in comments by @jsotola but I would comment that the results are not going to be optimum. Color filters work by allowing only certain ranges of wavelengths of light to pass through while others are rejected or attenuated by a large amount. With an LED light source, which are not broad spectrum devices, the resultant light level through the filter will likely not be particularly useful as a light source.

My suggestion would be to consider changing the character of that LED light fixture by adding additional color selected light to either the fixture or the room by installing an RGB LED light strip. These strips can be controlled to emit a huge selection of different colors that would increase the net light output into the room instead of reducing it.

You would have to install a separate power source and wiring for the RGB LED strip and it's color controller. If you try to do something inside the existing fixture you may have issues with safety where added low voltage circuitry is installed next to AC mains voltages so do consider the options very carefully before starting to experiment with these ideas.


Best way to divide TV roof antenna to several rooms

For that many outlets, you should invest in a "TV distribution amplifier". A search using that phrase brings up many suitable products.

You'll be much happier with the results compared to a "tree" of passive splitters.

Optimizing the cable runs is a separate question that depends strongly on the physical layout of the house. Per-floor amplifiers might make sense in some cases, while per-wing amplifiers might make sense in others.

It might make sense to use one 2- or 3-way passive splitter to send the signal to multiple distribution amplifiers.


How can I repair a kitchen sink that is leaking from both the handle and the underneath cabinet?

Yes.  The standard repair kit includes two small O rings (and springs) for the ball as well as two (or four) large O rings for the shaft.  You're leaking from both sets of rings I think.

I recommend that you also add a little silicone lube so the ball moves freely on the rings.  Don't use oil or vaseline; they'll dissolve the neoprene rings.

This Danco kit for Delta faucets is typical for single arm sink faucets:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-Faucet-Repair-Kit-for-Delta-86970/203194028?N=5yc1vZc6ak


How to support the subfloor around a toilet between I joists

For Future Viewers:

Right idea, but WAY too complicated for minimal support & no screwing for the flange. With NO FLANGE in place, build a frame first, not piece by piece in the floor. With a Flange in place you'd build it without the right side's {bottom} joist attachment so you can dry-fit everything & finish inner attachments to then LASTLY screw to the joists.

Stand up 2x4's to be attached to joists LAST. Then, bridge the Stand-Ups with 2x4's On-Flat. You screw through the Stand-Ups & into the ends of the On-Flats (do just the left Stand-Up {top} configuration if a Flange is in place).

Then, you bridge the On-Flats with a shorter On-Flat. First, screw that in from the left Stand-Up to hold it in place & toe-nail screws on either end at the Flange side. Also, toe nail what can fit On-Flat on the right side {bottom} of the Flange Finish by just screwing outward (& angled upward for this Askers I-beam pictures) through the Stand-Ups & into the joists.

This should be snug to the Flange's underside collar or the drain pipe, depending on your subfloor elevation. The On-Flats even allow you to cut or drill the platform frame for an actual tight fit complete circle. Of course, adjust this proven design to your actual application.


How to properly allow for drainage for a backyard retaining wall?

Water will drain through mortar.  Is the area inside the circle still going to be dirt (instead of an impervious material)?  If so, I don't see any need to do anything special.


That looks almost like a stomp texture with a circular or tree bark like mix or even a light knockdown.
Here is a sample of a few different textures.


XPS Foam and Plywood behind main electrical panel?

Most people install their electrical panel in an unfinished part of their basement and don't worry about insulating it.

However, if you are sure the panel will not have to be moved then you can mount it however you like and not have to worry about moving it later.

I would install an oversized piece of foam and plywood to allow for additions later. If you have the room that is.

Good luck!


How should I improve the drywall under my staircase before taping?

Prefill will take care of it. Prefill only enough to effectively get tape up there, then begin buildup. Feel free to go a little heavy, sand, go a little heavy, sand, etc.

Just remember though, hot mud only dries quickly on the surface, just enough to lightly sand and recoat. It's still wet underneath, so don't go too thick per coat, and make sure you give it a couple days dry time before priming and painting.


I had hot glue holding something up on my wall as I had seen that it wouldn’t take off paint

3M Command Strips. Make sure to leave the tabs accessible so that when it comes time to remove them, you can pull the tabs.


Remove painted over glow in the dark stars?

Sounds like you're going to have to complicated-ly scrape those stars off! Seriously, though, you're right: it would take a fair amount of paint to stop the glowing, and even more paint to build up enough height to bury the stars completely.

The paint entombing the stars is most likely to be of the latex variety. This stuff is somewhat stretchy and rubbery, so to minimize peeling the paint away from the ceiling it'll be important to cut the paint around the star. Use a small and sharp hobby/craft knife to trace the outline of every star. Use light pressure -- you only need to cut through the paint film that's actually over the star, and it'll really be best if you can avoid damaging the paper facing of the drywall behind all the layers of paint.

With the perimeter of the stars cut free the next step is to lift them off the surface. You'll need some kind of prying tool. If the stars are just thin stickers then the knife itself may be adequate. If the stars are the thicker rigid plastic type then another tool may be better: a chisel, a putty knife, or some kind of scraping tool.

After the stars are gone you may want to make repairs. If the over-coat paint was thin and if the stars peeled away nicely then you might get away with just another coat of paint. On the other hand, if there's much of a step in the paint film or if there's damage to the underlying surface then you may need to use a filler like drywall joint compound or topping to smooth things. As in all drywall repair if you use a filler then you'll need to also use a primer before progressing to the new finish coat.


What is a quieter alternative to gas forced air heating?

The multi-stage burners are much quieter at low burn, as are multi speed/variable speed blower motors.  These features are available for most 90% and higher furnaces.

A nice co-generation water heater (hot water for heat and a super storage unit for potable hot water) would be very quiet, but conversions costs to add radiators would not likely fly.


Toilet does not flush, pressure is non-existant, it worked when first installed, what's up?

Given all of the steps you have already done I would go the cheapest and most effective route.   Get a couple gallons of muriatic acid (big box).
Pour about a 1/5th of the container down the tank drain - directly.   Let it sit 3-4 hours.   Flush and repeat as many times as you can.  You need ventilation in the room, you will not be able to use the room at ALL during this process, and this will effectively destroy anything blocking any "holes/drains" in your toilet.    I have effectively spent $5-10 and restored 50+ toilets to like new condition using this method, some not draining at all.
Wear gloves and goggles and wash off anything that gets on your right away.   Do not leave these containers around small children.


You just need to pull a C-wire from the AC air handler above the thermostat.  Most smart thermostats power themselves from Rc and C, and only use Rh to signal heating, so your setup is very "typical" and is what they design for.  I have seen a question where someone wanted to pull a C wire from the furnace (power from Rh and C), and that was more complicated and not "supported" by their thermostat, but you should be fine.


Either method is fine so it becomes a matter of taste and skill.

The first method is the overhang bullnose style, which is the most common. I believe you are using the Trex style grooved decking that utilizes the invisible clips. The grooved boards are definitely not what you want to use for the bullnose or any outside edge, as the grooves will show. You need the standard radius edge boards for those exposed pieces.  They may be in stock at your supplier. One major advantage is that two pieces usually makes a perfect 11 inch tread and installation is very easy and any mitered corners fit well together. Don't forget to use some glue and thin SS finish screws to keep corners tight.

The second method of flush mitered edges is very difficult to build correctly. All edges of the treads and risers should be rip mitered. Exposed ripped edges look terrible.  If you have ever tried to rip long lengths of Trex, you will find it is a lot more difficult than it looks. Cut edges of Trex can be very rough if you don't use a sharp 60 to 80 tooth blade, not at all like cutting wood with an 80 tooth blade to get a smooth edge. Trex is unforgiving if you wobble a little or pause during the feed through the saw. Trex does not sand well at all, so any imperfections cannot easily be sanded out without harming the sheen or texture of the finished, exposed side of the Trex. Long mitered edges can be very difficult to make fit tightly. You will have to glue and use lots of finish nails to keep the joint tight and free of gaps.  Another consideration is that because Trex is fairly soft, mitered corners are susceptible to chipping and denting.

I think you are seeing that my opinion is to use the bullnose method over the flush method when using Trex or any composite, flexible decking.


Why do I get brush marks with oil-based polyurethane?

My hunch is that you're applying too light a coat and/or working with it too long. I've used Minwax poly many times, and it's almost miraculous how it flows to a smooth finish. It should look very glossy after you brush it on, and you shouldn't work it longer than necessary. Your final lap should be within a minute or two of application.

I tend to apply fairly heavy, then work it out to the point where it doesn't run. Get off it as soon as that's done to give the surface skin time to flatten itself out. Any brush work done once the poly starts to set will remain.

Note that I never sand beyond 150 or 220 grit, depending on what I have on hand. Polyurethane spans that texture just fine.


Is it possible to fix a "knob twist" bath plug without spares?

A coat hanger will usually retrieve it , the “stopper” is a hollow tube that slides up and down to block the flow. I have used a coat hanger to pull the assembly up through the overflow tube many times. You can remove the stopper until you get the correct piece or just use the hanger to pull it up and down until you get the right piece.  I would take the pieces to a specialty plumbing store they probably have parts to fix it.


How do I use 'surface shims' to level out a sloping floor?

I think the word is actually spelled "purlin," and normally refers to framing members bridging laterally across roof trusses, rafters, or wall posts or studs.

You say (in the other question) that the slope is consistent, i.e. the floor is still planar, just not a level plane.  This means the method suggested by shirlock homes in your other question shouldn't be too difficult; certainly a lot easier than the other options you mentioned.

If the slope is across 10 feet, and the outer edge is 1" lower than the inner edge, you'd start by ripping a 1" strip off the edge of a piece of 2-by lumber, so you'll have a strip that's 1" x 1.5".  Attach that to the existing subfloor at the outer edge.  Now say you've decided to put these shims every 12", that means you'll end up with 10 of them across the 10' dimension of your room, and each one will need to be 1/10" shorter than the last one so that you end up at zero right where the room meets the house.  So rip your next one to 0.9" thick, or about 29/32", and attach it parallel to the first one, 12" away from it.  Next one will be 0.8" or 13/16", and you'll attach it 24" away from the first one.  Then just keep going until your last shim is 0.1" or 3/32" thick, and it will be about 12" from the inner wall of the room.

Once you've installed these shims, their top surfaces will form a flat level plane onto which you can attach your new subfloor.  Your finished floor will be higher with this method (at the threshold it'll be equal to the thickness of your new subfloor plus the thickness of your new flooring material, and at the outer wall it'll be one inch thicker than that), but if that works in your situation I think this is a great solution.


Fixtures will not run hot water unless another fixture is on

No other fixtures are "dependent" on the shower valve. What may be happening is what is called "crossover", hot water crossing over into the cold water line (or vise-versa) due to a defective single-handle mixing control. It sounds like your plumber may have been right, as this would tend to not have a noticeable effect when the shower is flowing. When the shower is static, you turn the hot on at a different faucet, cold water is pulled through the defective shower cartridge to mix with the hot in the supply line, resulting in luke warm water.

Troubleshoot by positively shutting water supply to the hot water side of your system and checking for flow at a hot water tap, or have a plumber replace the shower mixing valve


Height of gang boxes for entertainment center

The height location of your entertainment system power outlets is not regulated by code with the exception if they are above 5-1/2’ they do not count to the required receptacles in the room. If you want them located in some fancy base board molding they can be there up to 5-1/2’ or height in between. If higher additional receptacles may be needed depending on the others in the room.


How do I fix my crawlspace's mould problem given the floor is an improperly poured slab of concrete?

After you have done the wash, paint the floor with Drylok. In your case it would be best to use a economy grade paint sprayer given the roughness of the concrete. It will seal out the moisture (mold's happy place), and it will also keep out the bugs and plant roots in most cases. Yes, the ultimate solution would be to chip out the old floor and install a new one correctly, but if you are looking for a fix that will work nicely and not need a new back for you, go with the Drylok.


Does white vinegar over asphalt cause any harmful reaction?

Without knowing the exact makeup of the glue, it would be difficult, impossible, to say with any degree of certainty, what toxins would be emitted. Most of the glues out there say to use in well ventilated areas so after years, if you spray them with an acidic compound that partially soften them up or dissolves them, they're going to be able to give off fumes. Breathing misted white vinegar can cause lung irritation especially if you have lung problems to begin with. There are also disinfectants on the market which are better than vinegar.


What could be causing a rumbling noise in our house?

I recently experienced the same issue.  We just found out what it was and had it fixed.  Apparently, there is a pipe that sticks out of the house from the HVAC system underneath the house that releases water that is formed during the cooling and evaporation process.  We found out we needed to have the trap (device that collects debris) checked and cleaned annually.  Because the trap was full of debris, water couldn’t leak out of the HVAC system and out the pipe causing the build up of pressure in the HVAC system (cause of the rumbling noise underneath the house).  Eventually what happened was, our central air unit had pressure problem and could barely pumped out any AC.  Once we had the trap cleaned, ever thing started to work again and the noise went away.


Sure, no problem, and if the wall is built using lime (most over 100 years old or so are) then you should use lime mortar and never cement (cement mortar is too hard and unforgiving of the normal movement in an old house).
The only health risk is the same as with using cement, i.e. don't breath in the powdered product and avoid skin contact. Use a mask when mixing the mortar and gloves to protect your skin.
Don't mix the mortar too sloppy, a stiff-ish mix is easier to re-point with. Always damp down the raked out joints with a garden sprayer and let it soak in a few minutes before pressing the mortar in (stops it drying out too quickly). Keep the finished re-pointing damp for a few days (draping a wet sheet over works okay inside, or mist spray it with a garden sprayer).
Using a sharp/washed/grit sand gives more authentic results than using a fine building sand. I sieve my local sharp sand to remove the biggest particles/stones, then I find it perfect for lime mortar work (you want about 3mm down to sand).
Use a finger trowel to put the mortar into the joints, (I make mine in various widths by cutting down cheap pointing trowels) it's cleaner and easier than using a regular, large pointing trowel.
Enjoy! Working with lime mortar is slower (and easier!) than cement mortars and gives a lovely finish.


What should I look for in purchasing a replacement recessed light?

Unfortunately, many LED retrofit kits do not fit the standard incandescent housing. You may find yourself trying many before finding one that works. Each manufacturer may have slight differences. In addition,  if you find one to fit, you may have other issues, such as dimming mismatched technology or tripping breakers. If you are only looking to reuse the actual cans, and change out all other componants, you may utilize your time and money more productively by purchasing complete kits and replacing the entire can.  You may not actually have to even adapt the side of the hole, as the attachments used in many manufactures kits allow for some devience. A major plus, you have a complete lighting system that
comes with everything included. Good luck!


How can I finish an attic floor where the recessed lighting protrudes above the joists?

If the existing joists are adequate to support an attic floor, it will be far easier to replace the recessed can lights with wafer style LED lights such as these from Lithonia.

When shopping, check carefully to see that the lights you select will work out with the openings in your ceiling.  You might want to bring one of the trims from your existing lights with you to the store.

If the joists are too small and need to be beefed up, you can sister new, larger joists to the existing joists, but that will probably be a lot of work.


What can I do about foggy double glazed windows?

Usually this is a sign that the seals have failed and moisture is getting inside the window.  The video you posted seems to be of a service that can apply a solution to prevent the fogging, however the seals are still gone which means the window is no longer insulating as it should be.

Depending how new they are, they might still be under warranty in which case you should contact the manufacturer.  Otherwise you can contact a glazer to see what would be involved in replacing the glass and seals, though sometimes it's cheaper just to replace the whole window.


Is it safe to unclog the kitchen sink while letting the dishwasher run?

TL;DR Just open the dishwasher to pause the cycle, take care of the clog and then resume the cycle.
Unless you don't have an air gap or high hose loop at all, I don't see any problems as long as the dishwasher isn't trying to pump out water into an active clog.
It is a question of backflow prevention.
Under normal circumstances, an air gap (plastic/metal gadget on the corner of the sink with hoses to drain and to dishwasher) or a high hose loop prevents sewage water from backflowing into the dishwasher. However, with a serious sink drain clog, it is quite possible to have one of these two particularly bad situations:
Chemicals or sewage backs up into dishwasher
This really shouldn't happen, as the chemicals are being placed essentially on top of the clog. If the chemicals don't make it through the clog fast enough (before the dishwasher starts to drain) then they won't "jump" to the dishwasher. Even if you half filled the sink with chemicals (not a good idea), the chemicals would not back up into the dishwasher because the high hose loop or air gap should be significantly above the sink drain.
Dishwasher Can't Drain Properly
This is actually what I worry about more, and is an issue with the clog whether you have chemicals working on clearing it or not. If the dishwasher can't drain out the normal pipe then the water has to go somewhere. The usual place would be up the sink drain and into the sink. That is disgusting but normally not a big deal. However, with chemicals in the drain already, that could make for a dangerous mess to clean up.
However, much worse is if the drain is clogged in such a way that the dishwasher drain water can't even get into the sink. In that case, it will back up in the air gap or high hose loop. If you have an air gap then that means dirty water coming out of the air gap and onto your countertop, and possibly breaking the air gap in the process. If you have a high hose loop then it could bust the hose (either at a joint/connection or any weak spot). Or it could just result in dirty water staying inside the dishwasher - it depends on the power of the dishwasher drain pump, the length of the hose, where the clog is located and other factors.


Is my Outdoor Mini Fridge Doomed? Wont get cold

The only moving part in a mini fridge is the compressor.  If you plug the uint in and hear something come on, that is the compressor.  If the compressor is running, the wiring is probably ok.

If the compressor runs for a while and the fridge never cools, then you most likely need a professional to check out the sealed refrigeration components.  Normally this isn't worth the cost on a mini-fridge but outdoor units are much more expensive so it's probably worth a repair call to check it out.


Dig out the sand, paint the sill, then use sanded-grout caulk. It is caulk but with an aggregate in it to make it look like... well like a polymeric sand joint. It will be waterproof and flexible and it comes in many colors so you can get a close match to your sand joints (which I assume are either tan or gray).


my name is David and I work for a pest control company in NJ. I have found that two products which work hand in hand work best. You will also need a brand new sprayer that has not been used for other chemicals or bug sprays. The following products are non repellent which means insects cannot sense them and walk through them, which allows insects to bring insecticide back to nest and spread throughout entire colony like a deadly disease. Sprays that your buying from Home Depot are killing the ants it touches, but unfortunately dosent penetrate the nest and kill the queen. The first product is Phantom Termiticide Insecticide. You are going to want to mix 3 fluid oz of this product in a one gallon sprayer. Spray baseboards, under and around furniture, along with basement and window sills. After using phantom, you will need Termidor Sc. Mix .08 fluid ounces per gallon of water. WARNING ( Termidor is not to ever be sprayed indoors which is why you must get Phantom as well. Also do not add more than .08 fl oz per gallon, you will make spray ineffective). Spray one foot up and one foot out from the foundation of your house. Also check trees in yard to make sure there is not a foraging trail going from tree to your house. I don't recommend just using bait, however after spray has dried, you may add bait to areas you sprayed allowing more chemical to be picked up. You can find these chemicals on domyownpestcontrol.com. It's not cheap for all of this, but you will get great results and multiple uses. Also do not apply Termidor more than twice.


Is it possible to replace a fusebox lever without replacing the whole box?

No, that box can absolutely NOT be fixed. There are parts that are physically broken that are not replaceable, aside from that fact that it is generally in poor shape. Plus, I see evidence that that right-hand line side screw has overheated.

Even if it could, as Aloysius said, it is really not worth it. Someone, probably a home inspector, will see it and make a stink over it being band-aid fixed.


Can I use electrical tape for making a splice? If so, how?

Edit- Based on comments above tape cannot be used (alone) for creating a splice. As Tester101 pointed out if the splice was soldered or crimped or joined with some (UL approved) device, then tape may be used for insulating the splice.

With regard to splices made with connectors, the method below could be used for insulating the connector (of specifically, a pigtail type of splice).

There are at least three kinds of electrical tape that I am aware of: vinyl, rubber, and mastic. For this purpose I would use rubber and vinyl, (reserving mastic for split bolt or similar connectors). I'm not sure if you must use rubber, but it will provide more thickness and (I believe) better moisture protection than vinyl. The tape used should be UL listed and approved for insulating splices. Generally speaking, the insulating tape should be 1.5 times thicker than the conductor's original insulation (source- http://ecmweb.com/content/electrical-taping-skills-lost-art).

If the connector has an exposed metal surface then I would start by wrapping it with (at least) one layer of mastic tape. Rubber tape will be used next (supposing the connector was not insulated), then vinyl tape on top of the rubber tape. Rubber and vinyl tape will be wrapped around the splice using a process called half lapping. Half lapping tape means to cover 1/2 of the tape every time you go around it. Start by stretching the rubber tape until it almost snaps and tear or cut off the end. Begin wrapping about 1.5 inches below the connector or stripped part of the wires. Keep tension on the tape (stretching it until it is ready to snap) while wrapping. When you get to the end of the splice, continue to wrap the tape upon itself two more times (wrapping the tape around itself), then fold the tape down, and wrap over it, continuing the half lap process back to where you started; cover the area where taping began and then (changing direction) continue wrapping back toward the end of the splice. Repeat the wrapping process, but this time fold the tape over the opposite direction (and wrap back down to where the tape was started). Cut the rubber tape and get the vinyl tape ready.

Rubber tape should be wrapped over the splice at least 4 times: up = 1 wrap, fold, down = 2 wraps, up = 3, and back down = 4. Then vinyl tape should be wrapped over that (again, using half laps four times).

Start by exposing a few inches of the vinyl tape. Pull it so that it stretched a little (about 30% length). Cut the end off and begin wrapping just below the rubber tape. Use the same half-lapping method, keeping tension on the tape so that it is stretching (slightly) while wrapping. When you are done the diameter of the splice should be thick enough (about 10 mm thick around the two wires); but if not, you should wrap it once more with vinyl tape (up and down) to be sure.


Wiring a switch to (2) pendant lights, a ceiling fan (all new)

So the blue wire in your fan fixture is power to the light on the fan. The black wire is power to the fan.

Current code calls for a neutral wire in any switch box, even if you don't use it yet and have to cap it with a wire nut.

If you want to control the lights and the fan independently from the wall switch (so the fan doesn't come on ever time you flip the light switch, and so that you can also run the fan without the light), you need two switches. Here's a simple example:

If you want to control fan with the pull chain

If the power is at the fan, then you want to run 14/3 to the switch. That's the hot wire (use black), the neutral (white) and the return leg of the switch loop (use red).

Connect the black and red wires to the switch, and put a wirenut on the white one (unless you have a switch that uses the neutral).

In the fan box, connect the black wire from the fan, and the black wire from the 14/3 (the switch) to the hot wire into that box. Then connect the red wire from the switch to the blue wire on the fan, and to the 14/2 that you feed the pendant lights with. Connect all the white wires together.

If the power is at the wall switch, then you still need to run 14/3 to the fan.

In the switch box, pigtail and connect hot to the switch and to the black wire in the 14/3. Connect the red wire in the 14/3 to the switch. Connect white to white (neutral).

In the fan box, connect the black from the 14/3 to the black wire in the fan. Connect red to the blue wire and to the 14/2 that you feed the pendant lights with. Connect all the white wires together.

If you want to control the fan and light both from the wall switch

If power enters the circuit at the switch box, run 14/3 to the fan box (two switch legs and the neutral).

Pigtail the hot wire and connect it to both switches (both black screws on the double switch in the picture). Connect the red wire from the 14/3 to one switch (one of the brass screws on the double switch), and the black wire to the other switch. Connect white to white.

In the fan box, connect the blue wire to the red wire from the switch box, and the black wire to the black wire from the switch box. Now one switch will operate the light, and the other will operate the fan.

To control the pendant lights from the light switch, connect the red wire and neutral through to the other lights using 14/2.

If the power is at the fan box, then you have to run 4 wires plus ground to the switch box, so that you can run power, neutral and two return legs to get power back from the switch to the lights and the fan.

You could search around and find some 14/4 cable, or just run 2 14/2 cables from the fan to the switch box and use one of the white wires as the return leg of one of the switch loops. Mark the ends of that wire with black permanent marker or non-white electrical tape.

In this case, the wiring is fundamentally the same, you just have to get power to the switch box because it isn't there already.

Other options

You can also get switches that have one or two potentiometers for fan control and dimming the lights. Or one that has a push pot so you can push it to turn the lights on and off, and turn the knob to control fan speed, and so on. But the wiring is fundamentally the same with these.


Hue (led) bulb does't turn on when put in certain lamps?

It was a faulty chandelier (very old) ceiling lamp. Not enough power was ending up in the bulbs. Working fine for ordinary bulb but not for led


Drain pipe valve under garbage disposal for compost

Absolutley there is such a thing. you want a "greywater diverter" valve.
Many styles are available. but I recommend you pick a different location for the bucket as forgetting the valve could get messy and expensive.


How can I protect books in my study from rats/mice?

From a book protection, and not extermination standpoint, you could always build shelving that had doors on it -- like the ones used in law libraries, where a door drops down from the top to close things up.

(typically, they're glass or other clear doors, so you can see what's in there easily.)


If the stucco is the real 1940s stucco, which there is no reason to think it is the modern day equivalent of what is considered stucco, the trim will be imbedded, or so it should be.
The only issue with what I see in the picture, and a closeup would be needed to confirm, is how the side trim meets the sill. The side trim should not be overhanging the sill. It suggests the side trim was added later, but it was done a lonnnnng time ago from what the paint layers look like. Even if it was added after the stucco was done you will be contending with the line left over from the edge where the trim used to be, unless you replace the trim with the same width piece or wider.
The problem will be if you are replacing all the window trim around the house. There will be flashing at the top of the window that will quite compromised if the trim is taken out from under it. If it is just the window or windows on the porch where the rain will never hit the top, the flashing or lack of it will be no concern.


Is a multi wire shared neutral circuit a 220 volt circuit

You could use a subpanel.

I'm assuming you have a series of 120V receptacles on this circuit, at 20A or 15A.

You would keep the 20A 2-pole breaker on the main panel, and the 12/3+G cable.

At the other end, put a very small load center. You can use a "main lug" type, 2-circuit, 4-space. They're under $20. For example: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPOROY/

Then you can put AFCI breakers in this subpanel to branch out as needed.

I haven't gotten a reliable answer as to whether 20A subpanels are allowed in code (30A may be a minimum), but the electrical theory is sound.


I am guessing from your pictures that it is an air intake - I don't see any signs of air/moisture above the venting.  It is perfectly acceptable to pull air from your attic for a furnace.  In fact some might presuppose that by pulling the attic air you are increasing airflow in your attic.  As a home owner I would like to see a screen on it so that critters can't get in.

If this is an exhaust, then it needs to go out the roof.  I doubt it is an exhaust though since the exhaust looks to be right next to it and there are no signs of any airflow like I said before.  Your worry % should be very very low.

Also in my area we throw a couple of 90 degree elbows on this so it is pointing down.  That plus the screen makes it super hard to have any unwanted things fall into your furnace intake.


How can I repair battery acid damage on a Caesar-stone counter?

I would experiment with dye on a cut-off piece..  talk to some installers of ceasar stone or get some samples.

The dye I'm speaking of is a metallic salt type (Transtint http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm ) They are intended for wood, but will stain most any material with some porosity to it.

This will be a temporary fix, a surface treatment that will have to be renewed periodically.  If you get a mix working (keep track of your formula), you can bottle it for refreshing the color as needed.

I'd suggest 1 OZ of denatured alcohol and 4-6 drops of a Transtint color to start.  Mixing is straight forward and color blend is the true genius of this system.
PS wear latex or nitrile gloves..


Dryer being on of off effects other appliances, and has no heat

one of the phases to your house is off

the dryer element, which is 240V, is connecting the two phases together

1/2 of the breaker panel is getting power via the dryer

the problem may be the main breaker, or it may be a problem at the power provider


It's not, exactly, frozen. Liquified Propane Gas maintains a pressure in the tank proportional to the temperature of the tank/gas. You might have noticed that the tank was quite cold - as you use gas, the liquid in the tank boils to replace it, and the boiling of the liquid takes heat (latent heat of vaporization) so the liquid and the tank cool as gas is used. If they cool too much, the pressure in the tank drops below the pressure you are using form the tank.

If you are managing to cool the tank to the point that (useful) gas pressure is lost while the air temperature is 80°F, you need a larger tank to supply whatever (presumably fairly high-output) burner you are feeding. Or you need to check for what could be a fairly major leak, if this same setup used to work, and suddenly stopped working without you doing something like adding a larger stove or turning on all the burners at once, if you don't normally do that.


Threads in brass floor lamp post have been stripped. No longer twists and stays in place. How can I fix the threads?

If there are any remnants of the stripped threads that you can feel, you might try wrapping some plumber's teflon tape, or other vinyl tape around them several times, and see if they will screw tight with the tape on.  You might need only one wrap, if the tape is thick.


Where can I get unusual dowel/shelf bracket sizes?

I'm not really sure what you're describing, but have you considered the originals may be metric (9mm, maybe).

Furthermore, if you're thinking of using dowels, you should be able to either:

1)  Get the next size up and sand down by hand with rough sand pape until you're able to jam it in, or
2)  Drill a slightly larger hole in a size you can match, or
3)  Use the next size down and fill the gap with glue (epoxy would be good because it dries very hard)


Outlets not working, no GFCI issues, breaker problem?

Myself, I would probably check the breakers too see if they have output voltage. Be careful. I suspect a bad connection. Check the connections at the GFCI breakers. I have seen poor connections when the push in connectors have been used (I always use the screws). I recommend a non-contact voltage tester. Some like the Klein one from Home Depot are sensitive enough so that it can be used to find a dead wire in a box if you if separate them a little.


Replacing old plug-in 220V range with new hardwire 3-wire electric cooktop: remove outlet or add a plug?

In NYC, you will have 208V power.  It's 3-phase, but that won't be an issue.

Grounding path

Through discussion, we've determined fairly conclusively that a) this complex's wiring is grounded, and b) the grounding is via conduit or AC cable jackets, NOT individually run ground wires.  OP reports that his "sub?" Panel has no ground wires at all, yet grounds check out on receptacles, so that indicates boxes are grounded and ground wires are not run (except inside AC cable). That's not weird; I manage 11 buildings and all of them are that way.  I don't even stock ground wire.

You need to make sure that the wires from the wall are #8 or larger. (The paper padding makes it AC cable, whose internal wires are THHN, allowing the 75C column to be used for 50A).

If hardwiring

You need to connect the cooktop's green wire to the box*.  The white wire in the box needs to be capped off.

However, there's a snag with hard-wiring. You can't just glorp the wires down "wherever". You need to have the wire-whip enter the box correctly, and that means through a knockout.  That knockout needs to be on the face of the box, obviously, so you need a blank junction box cover that has a knockout on its face.

Easy enough, but you don't have a standard box.  Your box presents the receptacle mounting screws for 2 abreast (e.g a 2-gang box) and lacks the corner screws that standard 4x4 box covers use.

So, you'll want to head to the best electrical supply in the city (goes without saying, that ain't a big-box store) and find the rare steel blank cover plate that attaches to the receptacle screws of a 2-gang.  Ideally this will have a 1/2" or 3/4" trade size knockout on it, but if it doesn't, the shop may cheerfully punch it for you.

1/2" trade size actually uses a 7/8" knockout.
3/4" trade size uses a 1-1/8" knockout.

Cord-and-plug connection

Make sure the cooktop allows this before you commit.

If you want to cord-and-plug connect this, you need to change the receptacle.  That thing is an obsolete, dangerous NEMA 10-50, and must be changed for this application because you need ground and NEMA 10 doesn't have it.

Fit a NEMA 14-50 receptacle.  This has 4 wires.  Fit the white wire to the neutral pin even though this cooktop doesn't use it.

On the cooktop, you'll be replacing the entire whip with a cord, not putting a plug on the end of the whip (which isn't structurally equipped for that).  Buy a 14-50 cord, and attach to the cooktop's terminal block.  Neutral gets wrapped with tape, not tied to ground!

* The box has a hole in the back tapped #10-32, it's a bit smaller than the other holes.  This takes a #10-32 screw, and they even sell green ground screws just for this.  This needs a #10 solid pigtail, which is tied to your oven's green wire.  DON'T just clump this together with the white wire "just in case", that would create redundant neutral-ground bonds, which can cause all sorts of trouble. Also do not use the pre-made ground pigtails sold at the store, as those will be #14 or #12 and you need #10.  You can buy 1 foot of bare #10 wire cheap.


How can I repair a power cable with missing jacket insulation?

The jacket needs to enter the box 1/4"  if it is missing further back than that the inspector may allow heat shrink but I would probably replace that run so I wouldn't have to wait for another inspection unless you call them and they say heat shrink would be acceptable. Code reference NEC 314.7.C.


Is there any reason to be wary of vinyl windows?

There's an issue to be concerned about in high-crime areas -- they're plastic, so they can melt.  Someone interested in breaking into your place can take a torch, heat up the frame of the window, and push the window or the whole sash in.  Some vinyl windows aren't all vinyl, and have an aluminum or steel core, that might reduce this from being able to happen.

Also, vinyl isn't good for high-heat areas.  A south or west facing window in a hot climate might heat up enough through the day that it'll warp.  This is even worse in dry areas with large high/low shifts each day.

In colder climates, vinyl becomes brittle, which means if you're in a windy area with gets a lot of blowing wind, you could get debris thrown into the window which can crack the whole frame; and unlike other construction, you can't just replace the glass, you have to replace the whole sash.

Vinyl on its own isn't all that strong -- so there's a lot of vinyl involved -- if you're trying to get a lot of light into a room, you'll be able to get more glass into the area with just about any other material.

You also can't paint them easily.  Whatever color they are, that's what they're going to be unless you replace 'em.  This isn't typically a concern for most people, though, as most vinyl windows are white -- but they'll slowly yellow over the years, depending on the exact mix of vinyl.  This is more pronounced in areas with higher UV indexes.  (eg, high elevations with no shade trees)

Vinyl also outgasses.  If you've got someone in the family who's sensitive to chemicals, this could be an issue.

...

That's not to say that there aren't different qualities of vinyl windows, but don't just buy on price -- look at internal metal stiffening, if it's welded or screwed together (you want welded), if it's fully encased in the vinyl (so it won't oxidize), and there's certifications now for vinyl windows ... but I think it's an industry effort, so I don't know for sure how reliable it is.


Some advice on building decking for a hot tub

Metric... Lol, the easy part. 1 liter of water is 1kg so you need to consider that inflatable hot tubs are 800-1200 ish liters, so up to around 1200 kilograms. That's 2645 pounds. That's how much a compact car weighs. Plus people, plus your gazebo. Decks are very easy to build but you need more than a deck you need support and lots of it. I don't know your skill level and I don't ever want to discourage anyone that wants to get in there and get dirty but there are valid safety concerns. That being said I don't think you need a brick wall but I don't know the conditions of the ground your deck would be on. Here in Ontario we dig holes in the ground at least 120cm deep 25cm around and fill them with concrete as a support pads for the structure. A brick wall seems like an expensive option but it would be very strong. If you live in a cold climate and experience freezing temperatures, that brick wall has to extend below the frost line or it will heave.


Why aren't all houses equipped with fire sprinklers?

Actually, there are different types of sprinkler systems. In lots of residential homes, a personal protection type system are being installed. These systems use existing water pressure and lower flow heads. The heads are not interconnected and only release water if the temp is high enough at the individual heads. The purpose is not to extinguish the fire, rather give occupants more time to escape a burning building. These are very affordable and becoming quite popular. In fact, they are required in many areas now, especially for new construction and multi-unit rental properties. They are easy to install, especially in new construction as they use standard 1/2 inch PEX tubing and an inexpensive thermo heads.

These differ greatly from the traditional pressurized systems that are designed to trip all the heads if one is activated and supply a deluge of water to extinguish fires. These systems are normally monitored by a security company or local fire dept via phone lines. They use a control board, communications modems, and closed loop water supply systems. The high cost of this type of system is the reason they are rarely used in residential settings.


Small geyser coming out of the basement floor

I know that my answer will not be a proper one (ok, you may downvote if you wish...), but my experience tells me that it's a serious problem.
Cracks on walls always tell that something serious is around. My advice is to find a civil engineer/specialist to make a proper judgement of this matter. I strongly reccomend that, and I guess that this question will not be easily resolved here, on DIY SE.


Are watchmaker or mini lathes useful to make adapters and threaded rings for photography and optics tinkering?

The Proxxon doesn't look like it can cut threads so that won't help you in that area. As far as the other items you want to make it looks good. With practice you would probably get good results. I learned how to use a lathe in high school shop class and it's not hard. Some of the other much more expensive lathes can cut threads but with optional equipment.


I'm not familiar with this product, but it seem like the thing that you're looking for...


Wire 2 GE smart switches to 2 different lights on the same circuit

I had the same exact issue. Physically pressing the button controlled both lights, and I could use the app to control them individually. I thought it might be wiring related too.
Solution: Move one of the switches into its own 'Room' in the 'C by GE' app. Create a new Room, and assign one of the switches to the new Room (that automatically moves it out of the previous Room). Presto! Each wall switch now only controls its specific switch. This seems more like a software bug because the solution is not a logical fix, but it worked.
Thanks, Wayne


I'd replace the strap with a copper strap placed adjacent and clean up the copper pipe before deciding.

I expect it is superficial, copper tarnishes rather than rusting and pinhole leaks start from the inside.


Advice on installing an attached garage 50A sub panel

"Future capacity" is job one when installing a panel. Think big. Make sure you never run out of spaces.  Small "main breaker" panels tend to have very few spaces, so I recommend aiming for spaces and disregarding main breaker or panel capacity. It doesn't matter anyway; read on.

6/3 NM-B is the legal minimum cable for that run.  You are a long way from worrying about voltage drop for distance reasons (I don't even bother checking til 110').  You don't need to worry about "wet locations" so NM-B will suffice.

Cables in a ceiling space are usually not a problem, but there is some technical stuff about plenums (air handling spaces) that I'm not up to speed on because I just avoid them.

The subpanel does not need any disconnect switch since it's inside the same building.  You might as well use a main-lug panel.  Just FYI, if you did need a disconnect, and you used a main breaker, size doesn't matter.  What matters is the feed breaker. There's no practical way to coordinate trips so the nearer breaker trips first, if that's what you're thinking.  A 30A feed supplying a 225A sub is fine.

Copper #6 or aluminum #4 is officially rated for 55 amps.  50A is fine.  However *you are allowed to "round up" to the next breaker size, so 60A is a free upgrade!

Going up, #4 copper is good for 70A only. #2 aluminum is good for 80A (75, round up) and #1 aluminum is good for 100A. (at 100A, you get a free "bump" because you're now allowed to use the 75C thermal column in the big temperature/ampacity chart.  Aluminum is much cheaper and perfectly safe for large feeders like this; just use the goop and torque to spec.

Look at your excellent diagram. Note how you have the two subpanel breakers abreast. In normal panels, both of these are clipping onto the same panel bus bars, which for some reason are called "stabs". Now you have to start worrying about stab limits which are stated in your panel instructions.  I recommend dodging this issue, by staggering these so your subpanel feeds are sharing their stabs with ordinary 15/20A branch circuit breakers.


Washing machine has sand and leaves in it after someone did a load

Use a shop vacuum to suck out the sand and leaves.


I would not bury it inside a wall regardless of whether it violates code or not. These things will, sooner or later, need repaired/replaced. I would put in a small access panel in front of it to facilitate easier repair/replacement when the time comes. If the home is sold and this is hidden in the wall, imagine how hard it will be for the new owner to troubleshoot/find the issue.

For example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elmdor-10-in-x-10-in-Steel-Hinged-Metal-Wall-or-Ceiling-Access-Panel-DW10X10PC-SDL


Most of the jurisdictions in the U.S. use a version of the International Residential Code published by the International Code Council (ICC). You can call your local Building Code office to confirm the minimum requirement and if you need to purchase a Permit.
The Code requires crawl spaces through the exterior perimeter wall shall be 16” x 24”. (See ICC R408.3) The code doesn’t indicate which way the 16” is required, vertical or horizontal. If the opening extends below grade, then you’ll need to provide an opening like a window well too.
Most exterior walls are load bearing, so you’ll need to reinforce the floor with a header for the part that rests on the opening. However, if you choose a side of your house that has floor joists running parallel to the opening rather than perpendicular, you may be able to skip the header.
I’d contact a local carpenter or general contractor to do the work. (Make sure they are licensed in your jurisdictions.) If you don’t know of a good contractor, I’d contact a local architect and ask for a recommendation.


Would pine or MDF baseboard better handle humidity fluctuation?

MDF may be marginally more stable, but in my extensive experience it's far too fragile to be used for house trim. I wouldn't install it if it was free. It dents and scratches like nothing.

If you're doing a typical bedroom you shouldn't have field joints, as either is available in 16-foot lengths. Even if you do, a well-glued and well-nailed miter won't come open.

If you do the corner copes well (and I did say copes--don't miter inside corners), and if you pre-tension them a bit (cut a sixteenth to an eighth long and flex the center in), and if you use a good wood glue at the joints, you shouldn't have winter gapping.

If you really want to be sure, use oak. There's no rule that says oak can't be painted. The cost difference is often negligible between red oak and clear pine.


How can I determine why my A/C runs all day?

Your question almost exactly sums up the situation I had at my home last August.

What I found then was that despite a properly sized air conditioning unit and what I believe to be good insulation (the house holds heat well during the winter), the unit still couldn't keep up.

I don't have full proof, but I think a few factors caused my situation and might be worth checking for you:

The condenser (outdoor unit) sits in an "inside corner" with the house on two sides of it and a chimney and small storage shed that partially blocks a third side of it. This prevents good airflow across the unit. [I can't do anything about this without relocating the unit, which is not a DIY job for me.]
We had very little wind at all during the heat wave, which also added to the lack of airflow across the condenser.
The condenser was visibly dirty, which makes heat transfer to the outdoor air less efficient. Lots of dirt, dust, pollen, grass clippings, etc. build up on the fins over time. Normally rain will clean it off somewhat, but we hadn't had rain in ages.

Despite some advice I've seen not to do it, I used a garden hose to wash off the fins of the condenser (it gets wet from rain, right?) very gently, taking care not to make it full of mud or to bend the fins.

I could see water evaporating immediately on contact, and I have an infrared thermometer I used that showed a 30F or so drop in temperature in short order. The AC performed much better after that, but we also started to get a gentle breeze that helped things along.


Will cutting section of 2x4 reduce strength

1: Yes it will reduce the strength and depending on how you cut it will determine how much and to what catastrophic point it will fail. A Drilled hole for line of sight is one thing a cut out is another.

The following two comments do not directly answer your question but need to be stated. I am not trying to hurt anyone's feelings by posting them just trying to provide some constructive feedback and I am saying ti because someone needs to say something to help you.

2: That protrusion of 2 x 4's from the ceiling down - that is a terrible (atrocious) mounting for a garage door opener installation! The 2 x 4 should be mounted between above the ceiling between the rafters then your metal mounting for the opener should be on the ceiling side mounted to that 2 x 4  - taking up minimal space and would not be such an eye sore. Of course if this part was done right you would not be asking your question here about your motion sensor.

3: I see that free romex wire running down and I am assuming it is rigged to an electrical outlet for the opener or maybe hooked to it directly - I will state this if you are in the USA ..it is a code violation. You should have that fixed and done right too - install an outlet box in the ceiling and plug your opener power cord into it.

I am not trying to be snobby or anything like that .. normally I don't answer this way but in this case I feel compelled to so that perhaps you will make it right and will not have any issues in the future, especially with your wiring .. like perhaps a fire!

EDIT 3-29-2018 Wiring fix:


Why doesn't my pressure tank fill as expected?

6 PSI amounts to 15 or 16 vertical feet rise, at most. 200 feet sideways and 15 feet up, not 200 feet up.

As such, I'd have to say your pump appears to be in need of service or replacement, based on what can be gleaned from what you've written. No water is going into the tank because the pump is evidently unable to make 30 lbs of pressure, much less 50. 6 PSI is not a functional well pump.

You described this as a shallow well pump - is it in fact a jet pump (recirculating, 2 pipes to the well), or is it in fact a straight shallow well pump (pure suction, one pipe to the well, less than 27 feet to the water surface)? A jet pump introduces a few more things that could be screwed up.

If you are facing replacement and it's a jet pump, I'd strongly suggest moving to  submersible, as they are much more efficient than jets, (you could replace a 1 hp jet with a 1/2 or 3/4 submersible and pump more water in most cases) and with today's technology, also more reliable.


Resist the temptation to see it as a ceiling problem that can be patched from inside. Doing so will only provide temporary relief, if at all. To fix the root of the problem, you probably need to inspect and fix the roof, i.e. from the outside.


Will a 6x10 glue-lam be suitable to replace a 4x10 porch beam with one fewer post?

Yes, using a 5 1/8” x 10 1/2” glulam beam will support a 16’ long header. You don’t give all the loading information required, but I’ll make some assumptions and you tell me if I’m wrong.
Loading from your covered patio is 20 psf snow live load plus 10 psf dead load (lumber, roofing, etc.) for a total load of 30 psf. Because the covered patio is 12’ deep, then 6’ bears on the header... so, 6’ x 30 psf = 180 plf along the header.
The 5 1/8” x 10 1/2” glulam will support 600 plf. Therefore, 600 plf - 180 plf = 420 plf allowed from the “house side” on the header. So if the span onto the header is less than 28’ then the glulam will support the load. (Remember, 14’ will rest on the new header and the other 14’ will rest on the other side of the house.)
If you live in a climate that has more than 20 psf of snow, the header will still work if snow lasts less than 90 days, due to an impact allowance.
Also, you may use a 4x4 for support at each end in lieu of the 4x6 you’re suggesting. Bearing value on each 4x4 is 600 lbs. x 16’/2 = 4800 lbs. So actual load is 4800 lbs. / 3.5” x 3.5” = 391 psi. ~ 385 psi allowable.
Make sure the beam and posts are connected together with a metal connector, such as Simpson ACE.
Likewise, connect the post base to the sole plate with a metal connector.
The last issue to check is bearing on footings. The code allows 1500 psf soil bearing value without a geotechnical report. Therefore, the maximum loading on the soil is 4800 lbs. plus 600 lbs. of concrete for a total load of 5,400 lbs.  If your footings are a minimum of 16” wide, then you’d need only the perimeter strip footing to be a minimum of 30” long.
When you order your glulam, be sure to order 2400 f. (Not 2200 f.)


multiple frequencies grounded to same ground bus bar

Absolutely not

Two Rules in NEC intersect to cause this.

First, different frequencies are by definition and nature different services.  You can't put two services in the same panel (unless the panel is specifically listed for that use). That's because you can only use an electrical part according to its labeling and instructions which are part of its listing and testing at UL etc.

When a manufacturer submits a device for listing, they include draft labeling and instructions, which they revise if necessary to narrow it down to something UL can test and is willing to list.  "Multiple services" is such an off-the-wall requirement that it is difficult to imagine UL would test panels for that.

Second, your grounds (Equipment Grounding Conductor) for any given circuit must go back to the same panel the circuit comes out of. Particularly look at the ground-retrofit rules, which allow grounds from the same panel to be mixed promiscuously, but not from different panels.   You can't mix grounds from different panels.. At least not Equipment Grounding Conductors.  These  different services can and often must use the same Grounding Electrode System, but that join will be outside the panels.


Prevent *minor* leak from kitchen faucet base

Caulk may work to some extent, but silicone is soft and doesn't withstand movement terribly well. I'd check whether there's a seal missing at that location. Maybe it was installed in the wrong position.
If not, I'd install a thin rubber or silicone washer. This would mean disconnecting the faucet supply lines and removing the mounting nut, but it will result in a more reliable seal than caulk.
Otherwise, definitely use pure silicone caulk and not latex, which won't bond as well and tends to harden over time, which will result in cracking and failure.


In light of my comments above I would propose treating the crack as a "control joint". These type of joints are added in large spans of masonry to control were the material cracks Side walks and large stucco walls are a good example of this.

Since your wall has already found its' least path of resistance to crack, I would have the joints that are cracked, cleaned of masonry cement totally by chiseling it out and saving as much as possible for later use. Set backer rod in the left over void pushed in to the depth of half the width of the joint and caulk the joint. You must use a high grade of caulk close to the color of the mortar to start. It will still not look right since the caulk is a solid color and the masonry cement has small subtleties that will make the caulk look bad. This is why the old cement is saved. Grind it up mortar and pistle style to get the cement in a fine grain state again, then dust the wet joint with the dust before it "skins over". If it skins over, it will render the dust unable to stick and tone the color of the caulk to the adjacent cement.


Elecrical panel box. Does it need a cover?

National Electrical code does not require a door to cover breaker handles.  It does require a cover that prevents access to electrified parts, which must have all openings closed.  A panel without a door is not a violation, but a panel without a cover is.

However, this might be a requirement of the bank, or some other local amendment or code.


Grounding a ceiling fan with FMT conduit present

The FMT coming from the box should be grounded. You need to check this with a volt meter. Connect the FMT to a metal fan rated box with the appropriate connector. Then, with the power on, check the voltage from the fan rated box to the black wire from the FMT, you should get 120V+- if the box is grounded through the FMT. Turn power back off. Then take the two ground wires from the fan/bracket and attach them to the fan rated box. Connect the black and white from the FMT/box to the fan. Attach the fan to the box and you should be good to go.


Can I use a CFL or LED bulb with a higher lumen output as long as I stay under the maximum wattage listed on the fixture?

Yes. The more efficient bulb will also produce less heat, so it should be fine. The only concern is that if there is a dimmer you need a dimmable bulb, and if there is a touch switch or other circuit that was powering itself via a trickle current thru the bulb that may not work -- but neither it nor the bulb will be harmed by the experiment, so go for it.


How smooth should I expect final finish to be on an new hardwood floor install?

There are standards for the installation of hardwood floors. The national association that is commonly used is the MFMA
https://www.maplefloor.org/TechnicalInfo/Finishes-Sealers.aspx
While their name has “maple” in it, it is also qualified to examine and review other species, such as birch, oak, etc.
I’ve given you a link that shows many members, but I’d scroll to the bottom for MFMA’s main home office in Illinois. I’d start there. They can refer you to a reputable investigator. You’ll probably have to pay to get someone to review the work and prepare a written evaluation.
It looks bad enough to me to require it be re-sanded, re-stained and re-sealed.


Connect Unistrut/Superstrut to the garage ceiling

I would recommend that you don't use a washer on the outside of the Unistrut bottom that has any chance of wedging the Unistrut open.  The fender washer on the inside is definitely the simplest solution, and it has the advantage of leaving all of the unistrut opening clear for your platform hangers.
The strength of your lag-bolt connection is based on the surface area of the threads.  Therefore the length of the bolt is potentially just as important, if not more so, than the diameter.  Remember, you have 1/2 or 5/8 inches of drywall that isn't giving you any grip, so your 2 inch lag bolt is only holding on by 1-1/2 inch or less.  Your joists will be likely 8 to 10 inches tall.  5/16 x 4 inch lag bolts will give you more holding power than 3/8 x 2.


Why does one phase of my buildings mains line show a significant amount of voltage (~60V) when it goes down?

Most all residential power feeds in the USA are 120/240 Vac split-phase. You have two hot wires (L1, L2) and a neutral coming into your house or apartment or trailer. After passing through your power meter it goes to your breaker panel. It is constructed so 240 Vac appliances connect to L1 and L2 which are 180 deg out of phase. 120 Vac appliances connect to either L1 or L2 in a hop-scotch pattern that helps distribute and even out the loading placed on L1 and L2.

This also helps keep return currents in neutral small enough to be safe.

Because 240 Vac appliances literally pass current to/from L1 and L2, if L1 or L2 fails due to outside lines being cut or a burned out main breaker, the disrupted lines can have some voltage on it, known as backfeed.

To test for this condition just use the breakers to turn off all 240 Vac appliances. If the problem goes away then you have a burned-out main breaker (replace) or a phase wire from the utility is open (call utility service).


How to make stone fireplace look better, darker and shinier?

Generally, cleaning then sealing can give you a shinier appearance. I emphasize the clean, since 90% of people skip that step. The sealers tend to give a wet stone look. It might not be darker but could bring out colors that your not seeing. So clean it, and see how it look wets first. Apply sealer as needed.


Neutrals from same circuit connected together...is this ok?

This is probably fine, as long as all accessible electrical connections are adequately insulated.  However, I would instead recommend that you get the type of switch that is intended to go on a power cord.  They come with an enclosure that hides all of the electrical connections.  Much safer.