How far apart should temporary A braces be on 18ft side walls before permanent bracing?

I would suggest that you brace as required to keep the structure straight and square. The sidewalls will be affected by how straight the lumber is in the first place and also by the process of installing the side wall sheathing. You will need bracing as required to push the shape of the framing into plumb and square and then hold it there.

Also be aware that since the integrity of the structure is not complete until the roof trusses are placed and fastened to the upper plate of the sidewalls you will need bracing in place to deal with forces of nature. As you begin to install the side wall sheathing even moderate amounts of wind can place significant pressure on the wall structures so bracing will be needed to make sure that a strong gust does not come by and flatten all your work.


There are several possibilities for the cause of the leak -- incorrect valve placement, a worn washer, a worn valve.  All of them will require you to remove the valve stem to investigate.  You'll need:

a plumbing valve wrench -- I have a set like this:

Teflon plumber's tape.
possibly some replacement washers (but you won't know until you've removed the valve stem).
possibly even a replacement valve stem.

Searching for some information, I came across this article that describes the repair process very well.


Not sure how to change these lightbulbs. What is this lighting system?

What is this “bulb” of which you speak?  :)
The “multiple color temperature” switch indicates this is LED lighting.
LED is a semiconductor technology for making light.
Like most semiconductors, they are extremely reliable and do not wear out.  (Calamities do happen, but usually, they happen to the support circuitry; I’m looking at you, capacitors.)
The computer industry learned in the 1970s that when semiconductors are socketed, the socket itself becomes far-and-away the most common point of failure. As such, 99% of semiconductors are soldered to the circuit board, to eliminate that #1 point of failure.
LED emitters are no exception. They will outlast you and I, and there is no earthly reason to socket one.  (Mind you the LED fixture, or screw-in Edison replacement “bulb” which is a mini-fixture of its own, may not have that longevity... but when it fails, it’ll be capacitors in the electronic driver failing or the RoHS solder crystallizing, not the LED emitter failing.
So there is no reason for an LED emitter to be removable.
In particular, noting that the color temp switch is outside the emitter area, it goes without saying those things are hard-wired to each other.


Filling gaps between bricks in pool deck

Painters tape will not be the best way to keep the mortar from falling through the bottom. if fact it has been my experience that painters take barely sticks to brick and concrete. It would be better to take a longer piece of wood from each side of the corner that you clamp to the underside of the brick coping. C clamps or similar adjustable clamps would work for this. Place the clamps away from the corner so that they do not interfere with your mortar project.

It would actually be ideal if you could arrange these pieces of wood such that they were mitered in the corner to aid in dealing with the corner pieces. The wood pieces could even have a curved molding installed that came up half way around the nose of the coping bricks. Something like this:

For placing the mortar between the bricks you may want to look into tools used by the tuck-pointing trade. There is a funnel shaped bag with a narrow spout that you can fill with wet mortar and then squeeze it out through the spout. Works very much similar to the gazing bag that a cake decorator would use. They are also called grout bags. Picture source is from a video that shows using a bag.

Picture Source

Cleaning up the mortar off the bricks is pretty easy if you use a damp cloth and wipe up any smear that gets on the bricks. I suspect that once you get a little practice with the tuckpointer's bag that there should be very little mortar to clean up.

Dealing with the corner pieces will be tricky. I might suggest bonding the two pieces to a piece of metal so that they are more of a unit and then bond that to the base with the construction adhesive. you could also consider looping some wire through a hole in the metal piece and then pulling the wire back along the bottom of the angle cut between the bricks where it would be embedded into the mortar.


The shared washer-dryer is a commons-space load.  Those are required by various Codes to be on their own meter.  This is obvious in an apartment building with parking lot, hall and stairway lighting, coin operated laundry etc.  Duplexes are often built as independent homes with no commons spaces at all, and I would imagine that's what you had if your AHJ permitted your build with 2 meters.  Unless the tenants agree to do it on a handshake (that's what we did), you'll need to go back to the AHJ and have a conversation about this sutuation, and whether a changeover switch would be allowed.

Generally with a washer-dryer, you have 6 utilities to plumb.

Cold water
Hot water
Sewer
120V (low power) electricity
Gas or 240V (high power) electricity
Dryer vent

So it's not quote as simple as a transfer switch.

Just swap plugs

Were it any other load, I would propose blue receptacles and red receptacles, and have the tenant switch the cords.  However the large dryer receptacles are not durable enough for frequent change.  Breaking a neutral on a NEMA 10 plug or socket will kill your tenant, but you will hook it up NEMA 14.  They do make frequent-swap styles, such as NEMA L14-30 or other makes; the solution could be as simple as that.

Subpanel

Since you need to power the washer too, and possibly a water heater, a subpanel may be called for. This might seem like a clever way to kill 2 birds with one stone using "generator interlocks" made for a panel: wrong!  This application requires we switch neutral also, which calls for a 3-pole  transfer switch.  You could do that with a 3-phase panel and wire neutral as a phase, with two breakers backfed to the two supplies, and the dryer and washer on additional 3-pole breakers.  It would be up to the AHJ to understand and approve that.   Otherwise you'd need an external transfer switch with 3 poles, and rated for the current.  That's one neat thing about subpanels as transfer switches, they can handle high current cheaply, since they are just breakers.

Each tenant would need to shut off their house breaker to keep the other tenant from just leaving the switch on them and poaching power. That might be a problem for the AHJ.  A better answer might be an Intermatic style timer rundown switch that operates a contactor, so the tenant can set the timer and power the washroom for 2 hours, say.  The contactors alone could not be the interlock, unless the AHJ certified that, and I doubt they would.

60A is a good feed current as it works with #6 wire, the breakers are still cheap, and will power an electric dryer (23A), a washer (12A on half the circuit) and a "20A" on demand heater (15A) without kissing circuit limits too badly.


Is it possible to seal a leak that's coming through a fitting?

While you might be able to find an epoxy our something else out on the market your best option is replace the valve. If it was a failure in the casting process then you'll never be sure that another part of the valve won't fail. While it might be a pain it would be better to just replace it and have the peace of mind that you shouldn't have any future issues.


why is my residential cold water in pressure reducer valve corroding like a battery terminal?

That could be galvanic corrosion, what metals are involved?

But if the others are fine and are made of the same metal, then it could just be a simple leak.

Maybe post a photo.


Plastic ground plug openings in 110 outlet broken

"Need" to be replaced? I'd say yes vs. leaving them indefinitely, just because overall when the outlet is fully intact it has its best chance at protecting you, and itself.

Hypothesis on "why so many are broken":

person(s) yanked cords from their cord vs. unplugging correctly (maybe they had a 3 prong vacuum).
Or, are these outlets in places that furniture was likely placed right up against it?

Use caution while using them as maybe more is broken than what you see and consider changing them or having a handyman change them. As @EdBeal mentions, they are under a $1.00 each. And if backstabs are used, its a chance to "correct" that issue too.

FYI: Backstabs are where electrical wiring is pushed into a spring clip on the backside of a electrical outlet or switch instead of screwed on the sides securely.


Does there exist a battery-powered, programmable, millivolt thermostat?

Yes Honeywell makes 2 wire battery controlled thermostats, some that look just like the old round ones of the past.
I have a newer one on my pellet stove when the stove doesn't kick into high when below the set point I know the battery is dead.


Use a ceramic drill bit to add a series of holes within the tile you want to remove, then use a tile chisel or cold chisel to remove the pieces. Be patient.

TOH has a good article:
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-replace-broken-tile


How to fill in bonding at the bottom of a wall before skimming?

Since you do have the Thistle Hard Wall and not needing to use another substitute like thinset for tile work, do add a scratch coat of the Thistle Hard Wall. That is, place a 8-10mm layer over the brick, pressing it into place solidly to insure its grab onto the brick. While wet draw lines into the surface (scratches) so the next layer of the same material will grab onto the rough surface that you made in the first coat. When the second coat is added, this one can be brought flush to the surface. Allow to set or cure the recommended time before adding the skim coat and sanded if desired.
Typically plastering is done in stages to get the desired thickness. If too much is added to the wall at one time the material will slump off the wall and cause great problems. On reading the recommendations for install, the Hard Wall can be applied 8-11mm thick in one application. Your plaster will be or should be much thicker than that, therefore requiring 2 coats to fill the area. The install specs also suggested that is is good for the finish as well, so it can be filled to the adjacent surfaces, making it easier to finish, then adding a skim coat will make it easier to sand smooth.
I did not read the specs thoroughly so I may have missed a minor detail, but this should get you on your way.


Hooking up a 50A hot tub breaker to a 60A subpanel

@Steven is essentially right.   What has been explained many times on this site is that there is NOTHING dangerous about what you propose.    The 50A breaker will be protecting the wiring to the tub (and internals of the tub).   The 60A breaker is protecting the wiring to the subpanel (and its internals).    You can do this if you want and you will be perfectly fine.   BUT, if the tub really does pull 50A and you have it on at the same time as other devices in the garage which are taking more than 10A then the 60A breaker will trip.

Bottom line:   You can have as many breakers as you want totaling more than their main/subpanel breaker.   It is safe.   It just will trip if you actually consume more than that at any one time.   You have to figure out whether that situation will ever occur.


Highly unlikely that a Grade 5 bolt (90.000 psi yield, depending on size) would be galvanized. If electro-galvanizing were used there is a high risk of hydrogen cracking at that hardness level. If it were hot dip galvanized, the required temperature of about 800 F would temper the steel to a lower strength. This tempering affect can be fixed using alloy like chrome/moly, but now you have a pretty expensive bolt; not one available in a hardware store.


There are many DIY air quality test kits available, that might be the best place to start.  This one checks for bacteria on HVAC filters and vents.  This one from AirLab actually samples the air to test, though it is a bit pricey.

You could also call a professional to come in and test the quality of the air in your home, this can be expensive so I would recommend a cheap DIY test first. If the DIY test shows contaminants or inconclusive results, then I would call in the professionals.

You might want to discuss this with your landlord, as they might be responsible for testing and/or removal of the contaminants (depending on your local laws).


Water won't come back on after turning main back on

Is the main valve a gate valve?  If so, you'll probably have to replace it. These types of values often fail when not used for a long time, and either won't close or won't open again after being closed.

You may be able to repair the valve, but you'll have to shut the water off to do that, so you might as well just replace it with a new valve.  If fact, you should replace it with a ball valve (aka quarter turn valve). Ball valves are more reliable, and typically don't break from not being used.


Which is least likely to crack due to high traffic, large or small tile?

Smaller tiles are less likely to crack on the tile itself, the joints will give first.  But larger tiles are stronger in general.

That said, you should work on increasing the strength of your floor before tiling if you are concerned about cracking.  If you can access the joists, sister any weak places between two load bearing points.  On the floor itself, install a cement board with lots of screws along the joists.  Stagger any joints from the subfloor below.  And make sure the entire surface is perfectly flat (level is good, flat is required).


replace old furnace blower motor with a new one but the wires are different

There should be a schematic printed on a sticker on the motor.  Without knowing the make and model, or looking at the diagram. I'm guessing based on other motors.

One common "standard" is as follows:

White = grounded (neutral) (clockwise).
Black = High speed.
Blue = Medium speed (medium low).
Red = Low speed.
Brown = Run capacitor.
Brown w/ white = Run capacitor.
Green = Ground.
Yellow = Medium speed.
Purple = Grounded (neutral) (anticlockwise).

Optional wiring available on some motors.

However, without the make and model, or the schematic, this is just a guess.

Update

The two brown wires (Br and Br/Wh) should be connected to the capacitor. If you don't have one, you may need to install one. The brown wire from the old motor should have been connected to it, so try to remember where you removed the brown wire from.

The white wire from the motor, should connect to the white wire in the junction box. This is L2/neutral, and completes the circuit.

The remaining wires are for selecting the motor speed (Blk, Blue, Red), so you're going to have to figure out which speed you should be using.  If you can remember which color wire was connected to the red wire in the junction box, that should be the same color wire to hook back up. Typically the blower is run at low speed when in heating mode, but that's no guarantee that your equipment was set up that way.

I wasn't able to locate any documentation on your equipment, and without a schematic I can't be any more specific. If you could include a good photo of the schematic, I could show you where to make the connections. You should be able to find a schematic in the manufacturer's documentation, or on the furnaces access panel.


1" x 2" Furring Strips for Drywall Ceiling

Weight isn't going to be your issue here. 2 inch furring strips may be pretty hard to hit with the drywall screws. The screws need to be in good solid wood and not going through an edge etc.  If You are careful, caulk some good lines, the 1X2's might work for ya.  The other consideration is if the spacing is good and you have enough surface to butt pieces of drywall together and still have wood to screw into.  I'd probably plan on adding some extra 1X3's to the mix to be sure you have good wood to catch a screw.


Why can't my radiator heat up my bedroom?

That radiator certainly looks big enough to heat the room you describe.

The windows -- Maybe the living room window is better insulated than the bedroom window. You may be able to feel the difference by resting your hand on the glass. Also, the living room drapes may be better insulators than the bedroom curtains.

Drafts -- You can use a joss stick or a punk stick to detect drafts, and to monitor the convection in both rooms. You will have to sit still for a minute to let the eddy currents from your moving around to die down.

With concrete construction, any cold drafts would likely come in around the ceiling, or around the window. Also check switch and outlet plates.

Convection -- When a radiator is under a window, the downdraft from the window fights with the updraft from the radiator. Usually one or the other wins out, so there is circulation throughout the room. Maybe in your case they almost balance.

The real mystery is, of course, why the convection in the living room is so different from that in the bedroom. With patience and joss stick smoke you may be able to see what is really happening.

A remedy -- In my house I had a similar problem. I solved it by adding a room fan, on its lowest setting, to move air over the radiator. My bedroom went from uninhabitable to toasty. If you have any kind of fan or blower on hand, try experimenting with blowing against the wall below the radiator to assist the natural convection.

If this works I would suggest two small (5 inch or 8 inch dia) table rotary fans placed on the floor, about 4 inches from the baseboard, blowing toward the radiator. I would rewire the fans in series for lower speed, but that's just me.


Plug In Dimmer on Circuit with Two Wall Dimmers Malfunctions

Firstoff, do not put dimmers on receptacles except for testing.  That is illegal and dangerous, unless you use a special magic receptacle that's keyed to reject all loads except certain lamps which you put the companion plug on.

If that setup needs GFCI protection, then you would be better off learning all about GFCI's ability to protect downline loads using the "Load" terminals (which you should never use for any other purpose)... and wire it so the dimmer is downline of the GFCI protection.  You can't dim GFCIs either.

However, your root problem is miswiring.  Somehow the  patio lights are in series with the other lights.
The next step here is for you to post pictures of the interior of all boxes.  Do not disconnect any devices, but do try to pull things out so we can see how the wires connect to each other and which wires are grouped into which cables.


What is the most efficient method for heating of rooms on working days?

The engineering theory is that a greater differential in temperature causes a faster loss of energy, so maintaining a constant temperature is more costly.

This theory was proven by tests of Twin Homes by The Canadian Centre for Housing Technology. Several papers have been written about studies at these homes, here is a rather thorough one https://www.healthyheating.com/downloads/Thermostats/nrcc48361.pdf


What causes this green residue on pipe going into hot water tank?

It looks like the copper joint was not sweated properly and is leaking. You'll want to get the plumber to pull the coroded pipe (the green is what copper corosion looks like) and sweat a new pipe in there

If you want a DIY solution

Shut the water off
get a pipe cutter and cut the pipe off just before the elbow
Buy some Sharkbite push connectors and replace the coroded section with PEX. Will probably run you about $20 (not including the cutter)

Make certain the PEX and connectors are the same diameter, and that your water heater is not putting out water above 180 degrees


Multiple outlets stopped working after wall-mounting TV

In wall electrical cables very often do transit from one wall stud cavity to another by passing through a hole bored through the stud. If you happened to drill a pilot hole for your lag bolts right into one of these cable pass through holes there are at least four possible things that could happen:

Nothing. The drill bit and bolt miss the electrical cable completely
Short. The drill cuts into the electrical cable in such way as to cause a hot to neutral short. This probably leads to a few sparks and the circuit breaker tripping in the panel.
Cut Hot. In this case the drill bit could have damaged the electrical cable to cut open the hot wire. Any downstream electrical outlets on this same circuit very well may end up being unpowered.
Cut Neutral. Similar to the Cut Hot case this can effect down stream devices/outlets on this circuit. This could lead to a very dangerous situation at down stream devices/outlets with an "open neutral" condition. This is particularly a problem if the circuit is a Multi Wire Branch circuit with both phases of the source power feed are fed down the same cable.

There are also other issues that could come up related to any GND circuit conductors may become shorted to either the hot or neutral wires. This can also be dangerous and would most likely to trip upstream GFCIs or GFCI breaker at the power distribution panel.
If you are not equipped to handle the problem isolation or have limited experience with this subject it may be advisable to bring in someone experienced in the field to help diagnose the problems. The potential dangerous situations with this are very real and should be addressed in a serious concern.


Chandelier installation and switch wiring

The key for you will be finding a double switch that has a 3 way and a one way, seeing as you want to eliminate the need for changing out your box - assumption here is that you have an existing installation with drywall already in place.
There is another factor at play though - NEC CODE requirements for how many wires you can put into that existing box. - How much space - you can't just stuff more wires just because you might have a wire hole to feed them into.

However installing a bigger box is really not that hard in this situation as some newer boxes have the box mounting screws internally - not on the outside where it would be difficult to mount in an existing installation (and yes they are screws - quite nifty for about $3.00 USA).

Your wiring might look something like this below.

Below you will find an example of the SMART box by Madison Electric

In your situation this makes perfect sense to use.}
The Tabs for studs - if you don't need / use them they are removable...


Should I paint wood in a roof that is not directly exposed to the outside?

You can seal the wood after it is framed.  Do you need to?  No.  Would the framing last longer?  Probably.  Does it make sense to do this?

if you like to spend a little extra money on frivolous things...
if you feel like that there is no one monitoring the house during parts of the year.  Obviously it had access to moisture because it was a balcony.  So maybe a monsoon could hit the room hard and no one is checking on the house for a few months.  Maybe this helps the framing last longer after decades of use and many unmonitored monsoons.
if this is an indoor/outdoor room


Yes, a 10 AWG ground wire is fine for up to a 60A circuit.

The 8/2 Romex (NM) cable is good for amperage up to 40 amps. However, the breaker must match the socket / EV charger spec.  If the socket is a NEMA 6-30 or 14-30, the breaker must be 30A.  If the EV charger docs specify 30A breaker, then that must be so.

Again, the 8/2 cable is perfectly fine for 30A or really any size up to 40A.  So if your spec calls for a 30A breaker, you only need to change the breaker. 30A sockets will accept #8 wire.

It is possible that a 30A-nameplate charger might want a 40A breaker. The documentation will tell the tale.


Can drywall with ripped paper be repaired?

Short answer:  Yes.

Long answer:  How

Use a utility or x-acto knife to cut away enough of the paper that you get a nice clean edge that isn't pulled away from the underlying gypsum.
Use a very small amount of joint compound and a 6" putty knife to apply a nice thin coat of joint compound over the damaged area.  Don't use too little - a little too much is easy to fix, too little isn't.
Allow to dry until it's firm to the touch.
Use a clean damp sponge to smooth the surface of the patch down to a nice clean finish.
Let dry completely.
Prime!!!  Always prime fresh joint compound or the paint won't stick.
Touch up with existing paint color.


Do I need both GFCI receptacle and GFCI breaker?

One or the other, not both. Depending on adopted code, you may ALSO need AFCI protection, which is better done at the breaker.
GFCI is pretty much the same for practical purposes whether at the breaker or at the first device, except for special circumstances like a buried cable.
You do NOT need multiple GFCIs on one circuit - just make a GFCI the FIRST device and then wire the rest of the devices from its LOAD terminals which will protect the rest of the devices on the circuit. Carefully follow instructions for wiring line and load on the GFCI and place GFCI protected labels on the remaining outlets/devices.


A similar problem in my home was resolved by installing a small muffin fan to exhaust the air outside. A 50 cfm was more than adequate, so I added a series inductor (ballast) to reduce electrical usage and noise. A timer was also tried, but running full-time at low speed was more effective in reducing odors. If you live in an area where radon is an issue (e.g. over granite), this also reduces the amount getting into the house.

Wire through a GFIC, since this would be a wet location!

Disadvantages:

A hole is needed for mounting the fan.
The fan uses a small amount of electricity continuously.
The fan may make noise.
A small amount of air may be pulled into the house, raising HVAC costs.

So far, this has eliminated the smell in the house and has reduced humidity in the enclosed area (storage room rather than a crawl space), without noticeable impact on utility bills.


I'd say its pretty obvious that you're missing the "mixer" and "flow restrictor" which are often one piece, or at least attached to each other.

I also agree with your hypothesis that someone took it apart and purposely removed or lost a piece.  Just get a new aerator - it's a common replacement part because people break them or they get clogged with sediment.


Can you use the bottom chord of a roof truss to support a attic deck?

If @freeman would like to make his comment an answer, I'll be happy to upvote it and (probably) delete this one.

Generally, roof trusses are made as a system of lightweight materials that together function to hold things up. Most of the time, they aren't designed to have things weighting the bottom chord. Pushing downward on a truss that's not intended for that force will end very badly.

So, you probably can't.

However, if you bring an engineer onsite, he or she can tell you whether I'm right, and more importantly, could design something that would carry a load.


Nest E Y1 cable cutting power to thermostat

You will need a wire going from the C on the thermostat to the C on the furnace, 5 wires total. R to R, W to W, Y to Y, G to G and C to C.  At the furnace there will also be a second wire on the Y and C and they will go to your condensing unit.  I can not tell from your pictures but it looks like the blue wire on the furnace C is probably going to the condensing unit.


How to resurface a patch of hardwood floor? Reapplying stain and poly

You need to treat the touchup in only those three rows affected, working with the grain. You need to sand out, way farther then the affected areas. The area to be repaired will, ideally, be the entire three rows. You should, at least taper the damaged area way way out. Feather it out far, so the stain won't have such a hard line. If that's oil based stain, make sure to wipe the affected area down with paint thinner, really get in there and scrub it out. Keep scrubbing and rinsing until the rag comes up clean.

On the retouchup itself, use a quality china bristle brush, lay the stain on thick. You're just going to have to experiment with how long to let it lay before you wipe it off.

You will always see your repair, for the rest of your life. Your goal needs to be "not as noticeable", rather than "never happened". Sorry about that, but that's the way it is. The job you're tackling is difficult for those of us that do this for a living, let alone someone who does it once or twice in their life.


Can Romex (NM-B) be run in conduit for more than 10 ft when starting from the breaker panel?

After some reading, the interpretation in the question is correct.

In every edition of the NEC since 2002 when the clause was introduced, you cannot run NM-B in conduit for more than 10ft if the conduit run starts at a cabinet, cutout box, or meter socket enclosure -- this includes "breaker panels".


Is there anything a rotary tool can do that a oscillating multi-tool can't?

A few things I've done/do with my rotary tool that can't be done with a oscillating tool:

Etching numbers/letters with a diamond point (in very hard materials; such as marking serial number/ownership on a bicycle frame or tool).
Polishing; many rotary attachments are made for polishing fine items.
Routing. There are several router bit setups for roto-zips and dremels for doing very fine (i.e. gingerbread) work.
Curved work, such as fitting tile or wooden flooring around a small curved spot.

Overall, the oscillators have their uses, and replace other tools, but the blades can be hideously expensive. The bits can be cheaper for a rotary tool, and sometimes they're just better suited for a job -- cutting holes in drywall to fit an electrical box is one great example of a task where you can do it by hand, you can do it with an oscillator or even a reciprocating saw, but once you do it with a rotozip and the right bit you're just going to hate doing it any other way.


Piping question for garbage disposal installation

You are going to need open up the wall and move the drain down.


Append Tee & Boot to Existing Branch ( flexible duct) to Split supply between floors

Splitting that 7" flex duct to two ducts will yield very little heat to either room. I would find another "tap-in" spot off the main trunk to get heat for the basement. Can you add a supply register to the bottom of the supply trunk.
A picture or two would help us understand what you want to accomplish, what problems you are encountering, and what options we see that would resolve this problem.


What kind of window is this (and how do I fix it)?

I had never seen these before, but I was finally able to track down some information and replace them.  My windows bear a "Viking" name, but I didn't find anyone selling parts under that name.

However, the useful term for these are "channel balance" or "block and tackle balance" windows.  With that term, it's possible to find replacement parts and even some youtube videos showing the process of replacement.


What kind of sound input socket is this?

They appear to be the 220V inputs (source feeds - Fuente alimentación) for each device; (L and R) as each input looks like it has two connection points. It has a custom connector that I cannot identify. If you can read spanish the manual more information is here: www.kroser-electronica.com/descargas/catalogo2007.pdf


Had similar issues at my sister's Florida condo. Had to replace a ton of hardware due to corrosion. All hardware (exterior and interior) rusts or degrades there due to marine environs. I would contact Kwikset and request replacement trim rings or whatever has gone bad. Do NOT spray anything into/onto lockset. You'll just have a worse situation. No oils or corrosion sprays. Or replace the whole lockset. Stainless steel would be very expensive. Keikset would not be my first choice.... Bargain Schlage as sold in the stores didn't survive this moisture onslaught either.


Did I wire this dimmer switch correctly?

That's exactly right.

A lot of these new dimmers are coming through as both single-pole and 3-way. This does add to confusion for some DIYers.

Again, this new crop of LED/CFL compatible dimmers could have a very slight delay in coming on.

Capping off the red/white stripe wire basically turns this into a SP dimmer.


So I got a guy out to fix it. This was months ago at this point. However, he discovered that the fill loop had been put on "the wrong way around". I'm not a plumber, or person who knows about pipes, but I am assuming from his explanation that water simply couldn't flow either way through this small section of pipe... regardless, he said he put it on the right way around, and indeed I can now repressurise the system. I have no idea why the guy before this put the pipe on backwards..


How do I interpret the American Wood Council's Design for Code Acceptance table of cantilevered joists?

Directly from the document that you linked the following figure shows that the Lj and Lj/4 dimensions are additive.


Painting Pressure Treated Wood | Outdoor Steps Application

The preservation process uses lots of water, that water and the preservative will leach back out over time. If the wood is painted, this leaching process will push the paint off the surface of the wood, let alone not allow it to grip the surface the way it needs to, to begin with since it is so wet and the preservative is on the surface as well. Weathering will remove the surface contaminates, and allow the wood to dry to the degree it needs to keep paint.

6 months was the rule I read about. A year works too.


Leaky pvc ball valve handle cap and pvc joint

I have been in this situation a few times.  For the elbow you may have luck turning off the water, draining the line, then brushing the connection elbow to pipe location and around the elbow itself with PVS cement.  If you can get a flow into the leak location it may likely seal.  It is a fair possibility that a hairline crack or cement gap occurred.  I have had about a 60% success doing this.

As for the valve leak I hate to say may need replaced.  One exception is if it has a handle that is held on by a screw.  Check the blue handle looking for the center disk to see if it has a gap to the main handle body.  If so see if it will pry off and has a screw to tighten handle to ball assembly.


Do the front end attachments from one lawn tractor brand work on another brand?

The answer is maybe.

Some companies build tractors for many different brands. E.g. Husqvarna sells their own brand of riding mowers but also makes the current Craftsman line with only minor differences in the plastic body. So a lot of attachments between those two are interchangeable (and again, made by Husqvarna). I think they also make Poulan tractors.

MTD is another manufacturer that makes their own line in addition to others like Cub Cadet, Troy-Bilt, and the older Craftsman mowers.

John Deere I believe is not associated with other brands but I'm not sure.


What size dip in the floor needs to be filled before carpet is installed?

Levelling compound is your pal. Use it to get the whole floor level. whatever else you do will come back to haunt you. Whether the carpet is free standing or stretched wall-to-wall, it needs to be on a flat, level surface, with no dips deeper than 1/8" over a square foot - and that's pushing it. Underlay may give a little leeway, and indeed, is worth putting down first, but won't solve your problem.


Replace plasterboard (drywall?) around window

If there is a space behind the plaster board and the brick wall it is most likely that there have been wooden strips mounted to the brick and then the plaster board has been in turn mounted to those wood strips.

I would expect you to find a strip vertical right next to the window, one on each side of the corner in from the window and then some under the inside wall area. You will learn more simply by proceeding to remove the existing damaged materials. It is possible that some of the stripping was damaged as well and may also require replacement.

As for the installation of the replacement plaster board you would cut pieces of material to fit and then use plaster board screws to mount the pieces to the strips on the wall. The outside corner by the window is normally handled by installing a plasterboard cornice piece (made of metal or plastic) to the corner (with some more screws) and then the plaster board mud is applied at the corner up to this material to produce the finished corner.


Pipe is cast iron . The collar/flange is likely brass.


Can I strip a neutral wire and use it to pigtail ground wires?

Yes, as long as they are thick enough (thicker is always OK) and you must strip the whole wire because grounds must be green or bare, not white or any other color. If you are concerned about the ground wires shorting against screws, put tape over the screws, not over the ground wires.

From Grounding Conductors size (PDFP:

For 15A - 30A, the sizes are the same as the hot & neutral for the same size circuits:

15A - 14 AWG
20A - 12 AWG
30A - 10 AWG

Above 30A, you get to downsize:

40A - 10 AWG
50A - 10 AWG
60A - 10 AWG
100A - 8 AWG
200A - 6 AWG


How can I fix a small puncture hole in vinyl flooring?

A dab of caulking might do it. Look for your color at your local hardware store.


Add a new doorbell to basement, upgraded transformer, still doesn't work

I ended up buying two new doorbells with speakers instead of chimes.  I was told by the manufacture that these will work on 16va.  Plugged everything together and now it works.


Outdoor 3-way motion sensor on a low volt circuit?

Even with the great lack of detail in the question as it currently stands, normally to have "a motion sensor at each end" you need new/additional wires running all the way from one end to the other. The motion sensors need power all the time, so you can't have one at the end away from the current power source without running new wiring for that.
Beyond that, hard to say given lack of detail in the question.


US-Michigan—Subpanel install—Can I use PVC conduit and THHN in-wall to go from disconnecting means to panel inside the garage?

Sch 40 is fine, this time at least

Since this conduit run is inside a wall, its generally not subject to physical damage, which means Schedule 40 PVC is fine for this job.  I'd simply bring it out of the back of the box with a LB body, by the way, and then it can just pipe straight into the side of the indoor subpanel, or into the bottom or top with a LL or LR body if that is more convenient.

As to other means? PVC is really your best choice here, unless you want to go metallic instead, which puts you in EMT-land.  (Rigid is a bigger pain to deal with due to threads, and SE cable is going to be harder to replace later if you want more power in the garage.)  I'd just size it generously -- 2.5" is a good size for this.

Wire derating is not needed here

Insulation isn't an issue when it comes to derating for wire in conduit as long as the ambient temperature isn't roastingly hot (i.e. not greater than 30°C/86°F).

Don't forget the grounds

Since you're providing a feeder to a detached outbuilding, you'll need to both run an equipment grounding conductor back to the source of the feeder (it can be 6AWG copper) to provide a fault path, and run some more 6AWG copper back to a grounding electrode (ground rod) for the outbuilding to deal with lightning-type problems.  Don't forget to pull the bonding screw in the disconnect while you're at it!


Open up the switch box, and have a look how it's wired.  Without more information (photos, diagrams, etc.), the following information is an educated guess.

One of the colored lines (red, black) is likely always hot, while the other is controlled by the switch. The white is most probably neutral, and the bare/green is almost certainly ground.

If this is the case, then connecting the devices is simple.

Connect all the grounding conductors together.
Connect the incoming white wire to the white wire going to the receptacle, and to the white wire for the light.
Connect the always hot colored wire to the hot wire leading to the receptacle.
Connect the switched hot colored wire to the hot wire for the light.

Again, this is a guess based on the limited information you've provided.


Besides the bulb, there are two other common failure points:  the inductive ballast (which limits current and, for long tubes, is a step up auto-transformer) and a preheat/starter switch (not a capacitor).

Both those components are replaceable, though it may be difficult to find them.  In the 1940s through the 1970s, they were available at every hardware and electrical supply store, but since standard florescent fixtures have now been completely obsolesced by compact florescent (CFL) and LEDs, compatible components are now uncommon.

If you can't find parts or they are expensive, this might be a good opportunity to replace the light fixture with a modern one.  It will be about three times more efficient, quieter, more reliable, and more easily repairable.  They should be quite reasonably priced too due to significant competition.


My best bet would be you have a loose splice or connection. You need to go through each box and see if there is a conductor or wirenut that is not making a good contact. Many times if someone has used the pushins on the back of receptacles and switches, they become loose and stop making a good connection. That is why most of us were trained not to use them. Take each splice and hold the wirenut with hand and pull each individual wire to see if they are making a good connection.

You do need to fix this problem since a loose connection is slowly burning and arcing and causing the conductor and is insulation to be damaged. You might try to measure the voltage a each of the receptacles not working and see if you are getting particle voltage like 70V or something. This could give you an idea of how the circuit is run and Where your problem may be.

Good luck


How do I determine which phone line goes where, without any special tools?

The simplest route would be to use a circuit tester on the various lines in your basement, and have a friend temporarily short the lines in each of the rooms.

An audible circuit tester makes this very easy. It can be a standalone circuit checker, or as part of a multimeter's functionality. It raises a voltage across a circuit, and if that circuit is complete current flows, sounding a buzzer.

If you have a multimeter, look for a speaker icon to see if yours can do this.

As @lqlarry said, you could do this with a 9V battery but that shouldn't be needed - the voltage drop should be negligible.


Does a fridge thermostat need a ground connection?

If the new unit does not have a ground connection then it doesn't need one.

The ground wire was for the original thermostat so there should be no bad effects from not having it connected to anything. Any other component in the fridge that requires grounding will still be grounded through it's own wire.

Just make sure that you've insulated the end.


Can I buy replacement clips for my soft-close drawer?

DTC  soft close drawer slides locking device

 Available here


It turned out to be abandoned electrical. Photos below (cell phone for scale)

DigSafe came out and confirmed it was not a City service (gas, hydro, transit, water, etc.) They checked out the line and agreed it was strange it was so shallow; definitely not one of theirs. So we excavated a little more and eventually realized it is not a pipe, but a sheathed cable (with the sheathing completely deteriorated). Tested for voltage (there was none).

So I think this must have been how electricity used to get to the garage. As I mentioned, the garage was completely rebuilt a couple of years ago, and they put in a proper aerial connection at that time.

.


The curb in this picture is about 3" wide. That is enough to put under the pan a piece of 2x4 (vertically) and screw a 1/2" thick hardie backer.  Then you can use thinset to attach tiles to the hardie backer.

Do not attach your tiles to a layer that can warp, expand, or shrink.  Your tiles will crack.


It sounds to me like an overactive "scald prevention valve" - pretty much all USA faucets (and likely some other areas around the world) have been required for some time (certainly much more than 5 years) to have a mechanism that is designed to prevent scalding, so there's a thermally-active element in the faucet that is supposed to reduce flow when it's too hot.

I would guess that yours is mal-adjusted (if adjustable) or simply failing in some way that makes it over-react long before it should. If you can find literature on your faucet (whether you actually saved it, or just can sort out the model and look it up with the manufacturer) you might discover if there is supposed to be some sort of adjustment. Depending on manufacturer there might also be a help or support number you can call (particularly among the "guaranteed for life" manufacturers.)


How do you reinforce round deck footings?

Really there's no need the footings will not see any tensile or flexing loads.

Be sure to tie the posts into the footing. That's all that's needed. if the post is being embedded in the concrete you could pass some bar through it (drill a hole).


Yes, you tape any insulation's lateral seams, especially any fluffy stuff...aluminum HVAC tape lasts the longest. The fluffy stuff really only works best in dead air space. Which also means the un-faced side (where you don't tape anything). If there's a good swap of air or you can feel a breeze when it's windy out, you'll want to seal that out.

1/4" Rigid Foam boards are good for this as they'll seal out most air movement, but still allow humidity to escape into the venting. I think they still have them, the accordion style works very well if you have a number of larger open areas within the truss structure. Otherwise, get the same size as your batts & just put the foam on top.


Cell Foam vs. Traditional Fiberglass Insulation for Party Wall

While closed cell foam will perform a bit better than fiberglass in noise reduction, there are much better ways to tackle this for the same or lower cost. What you really need for sound isolation is to add mass between the living units and to mechanically separate them.

If both living areas are sharing a wall, building with double studs that are staggered will prevent sound from traveling through the studs from one dwelling to the next. Another great option for soundproofing is to use double layers of 1/2 inch drywall or a single layer of 5/8 inch drywall on each side (or at least on your side) instead of a single layer of 1/2 inch (typical).

I've used 5/8 inch drywall everywhere in my home that I've remodeled and even without insulation in the interior walls, it's helped tremendously. I'd skip the cost of cell foam for interior walls and only use it where needed for air sealing and insulation from heat and cold.


Timer for house ventilation switch - high/low voltage wiring

This looks like a standard double pole switch.

Essentially, it is two independent switches both controlled by a single toggle. The two sides of switches are not connected to each other.

In your box, it looks like you have two separate switch loops, one going to each side of the switch. The cable on the left is supplying a hot lead an a return switched hot (probably to the 120V bathroom fan). The white wire is not a neutral, it is being used as a hot. Code requires that the white be marked with black tape or a marker to show it is hot.

The right cable (probably 24V furnace) uses red and black for the hot and the switched hot. This is standard color code. It seems that the right wire (lighter gauge) is the low voltage circuit.

The specific questions:

There is no transformer in the switch. The low voltage is provided by a transformer elsewhere, probably near the furnace.
There does not appear to be any neutral wire in this box. While that does not conform to current code, up until recently it was common to run a switch loop with only hot wires, using the white wire (properly marked) as a hot. Current code requires running a true neutral to each switch box (with a few exceptions), even if it is not currently needed.
It is likely that power is provided directly to the box that the fan is connected to, but the hot line is not connected directly to the fan, it is connected to one of the wires running to this switch and then back to the fan on the other wire from this switch box.

While this setup works, I am not sure if current code allows a high and low voltage switch combination, or even high and low in the same box without a barrier between the sides. (NEC 725.136(B))

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Sump pump running constantly - water coming in FROM discharge pipe

...An inappropriate discharge arrangement would seem to be the obvious answer. Changing the discharge pipe's path and/or destination would be the solution.


What are my options for replacing 50W GU10 lightbulbs?

I use myself both GU10 and MR16 bi-pin (low voltage) LED replacements for what should be Halogen bulbs.

If you need the amount of light that you get now from the 50W bulbs, then no. This will not cut it.

But do you?

I have 6 GU10, 3W each LED that go on a fixture designed for 6 35W Halogen. For dinner, that is all I need. Yes, it is on the romantic side, but since you have 6, you can point 3 at the table and 3 at the walls around and you have both decent task light and ambient light.

Add to that the fact that there is the option (almost always)to add more ambient light (add the 3 LED above the bar next to the dining table, or the 2 wall lights in the hall next to it) and you are just fine.

In my kitchen, I have 12W LED recessed lights which replace 65W equivalent and they give PLENTY of light. you can do brain surgery under that light... So really, people give LED bad rap. They do great job if you get the right light for the right setting and make sure to get the right amount of Lumens.

The W per Lumen ratio is great, and light quality is great. It only fails when people don't realize that the things they buy, even though it should be clear based on the data on the package, are too weak to replace the incandescent bulb. a 3W LED cannot replace a 50W Halogen is the short answer, but LED CAN replace Halogen if you plan it right.


I put H B Smith 350, 450, and 650 screw nipple boilers together with RTV for many years as did a couple contractors I worked with. These boilers almost always had nipple thread leaks. When I or the contractors used RTV we never had a leaking nipple.
my 2 cents


What reasons are there to rewire an ungrounded circuit instead of adding GFCI protection?

Points one and two, I can't make a definitive answer but generally when a ground is not provided a GFCI provides acceptable protection.

As for point 3, grounding issues are a major source of noise/static.  If the item is not grounded the metal case around the device will be very ineffective in shielding the device from EM interference.  Likewise, any EM interference the device creates will be poorly contained within the case.

Another source of grounding on audio/video equipment is referred to as "ground loops".  Pretty much all audio/video cables use a grounded jacket around a central wire to shield it from EM interference and this jacket also connects different pieces of equipment together on the ground.  If two pieces of equipment happen to be grounded to two different sources, a small electrical current can be transmitted across the grounding jackets causing a lot of noise on the lines.


40 to 50 Volts on Generator (Neutral to Earth) "Normal"?

It turns out that the OP's model of generator is peculiar -- its 120V is set up in the UK jobsite fashion (i.e. two 60V hot legs and a neutral), which when combined with the way the 120/240V switching works on the 120/240V models of this generator, yields a neutral at an odd spot.

The only fix is to use a 240/240 isolation transformer to establish a new neutral point, or to rewire the generator (which'd void its NRTL listing).


How should I reseal my cobblestone patio?

They should be laid in a sand bad, but also you should bind them together with cement based mortar if they are not regular shaped. If they are all same shape you can stack them without mortar, but it is not simple. Maybe you should think about hiring experienced mason.


Is this wall in my kitchen load bearing?

I’m glad “you’re going to consult a professional.”

I’m sure he’ll check: 1) that all the trusses are identical, including the connectors, 2) there are no additional loads on the trusses over the kitchen area, like air conditioner, etc., 3) the floor beam is just for floor loading, (the wall does not need to sit directly over the beam in order to transfer the roof load to the floor beam, 4) the wall that is being removed is not for lateral bracing (are you in a high seismic or wind zone), 5) the perimeter footings are not reduced in size by the kitchen area,

Btw, it’s not just removing the wall...you’ll need to remove/reroute plumbing, electrical, hvac, etc. too.


Water level gets lower and lower in toilet

The only possible reason for the water loss, and that if you're not getting any noticeable leakage, is improper venting, as described here.

There is another reason why it seems that improper venting is the cause - you noticed that the water level was getting lower over a year period. It could be that over that year your plumbing venting clogged slowly & steadily.

Also, contrary to what is said in the link above (that in a case of improper venting you need to call a plumber), I think that if you've noticed the change over a long period, this is also reversible (bird nesting or something similar).

If the problem was very low but steady water level, then it could be a problem that require a plumber's work.


Make sure they are complete

Both knobs, core assembly, latches (latches are not standard/universal), and the screws.

The screws that hold the latch on are not nearly as important, and one can subsitute a plain old wood screw or drywall screw.

Worn out ones, straight into recycle bin or trash, it is metal, they will separate it out with magnets or eddy currents.

Once I verify it is complete, I  throw each knob or deadbolt (complete) into a gallon Ziploc and then throw the Ziplocs into a box.  And then, the keys.  If you have enough keys, throw one in each Ziploc.

Then the kaboodle either goes on eBay or to the Habitat for Humanity store.    Because that's where people go when they want lock sets, not Goodwill.  Also Goodwill won't get that this is a set, HfH will.


You can twist them tightly and be fine. Just be sure that there aren't any "hairs" (individual strands) that are loose.   If so, just clip them off with a pair of scissors or nail clipper.


Can cracks in a wood-burning fireplace be repaired with a concrete product?

Refractory cement is usually used to repair the the joints of the fire brick. If the old cement is cracking it may be a good idea to remove all the loose material and repoint or fill the damaged areas. There is also fire clay but this not normally used above the fire box area that takes the most abuse from the fire (I have seen fire clay used many times but believe refractory cement is better).


How can I fix a leaking outdoor faucet with broken threads?

As the comments have pointed out, that is a compression fitting and not a threaded fitting.  Removing it should be relatively easy.  Loosen the nut by holding the valve with one wrench and turning the nut with another.  Once it is loose enough, the valve should just pull off the pipe.

You will have to examine the exposed portion of pipe once you remove the valve to determine if you can re-use the pipe and valve as-is or if you need to cut it inside and install a new stub that you can then install a new valve on.  I doubt you will be able to re-use it (its damaged already, hence the leak), so in all likelihood, you will have to replace it.  If you do replace it, get a ball valve (1/4 turn) as they are more reliable and easier to operate.

Hopefuly you have an inside shutoff valve for this.  If you don't, you will want to ensure you have everything you need before starting this project as the water to your house will be off. If you do have a shutoff then just close it and you can take as much time as you'd like.

Note that you should not use pipe tape or dope on compressing fittings.


Snowblower auger spins easily and does not turn impeller

There are sacrificial bolts (shear pins) that break on purpose if you hit something solid (like a rock). Check for them.
It generally replaces just like a bolt (with a nut on one end, but it might use a cotter pin or similar). But DO NOT USE A BOLT. It needs to be able to shear, so get the right part (they are VERY common - should be no issue). Check the other end of the auger for one that's still intact for a sample.

Here's a close up of the installation of a shear pin/bolt that is designed to break.  Each side of the gearbox will have at least one.  If your snowblower is a three-stage unit, there will be more.

Here's a close-up of a replacement supplied with a Cub Cadet. You can see it uses a clip to install and the notches designed to break are obvious.  They are 1/4" diameter and about 1-1/2" long.  Even though my three-stage snowblower uses four in total, Cub Cadet only gave me three spares.


How to remove metal pipe stuck in ground that is filled with concrete at bottom

Look up "how to cut a lally column" for illustrations, as that's exactly what they are (steel tube full of concrete). Dig a hole, cut the steel with whatever tools you have (hacksaw, grinder, sawzall) hit the top with a hammer and it will snap easily. If you happen to have a large pipe cutter for steel pipe you can use that, but odds are you don't. There are also specialized tools for lally columns - again, you probably don't have convenient access to one.

The essence remains that once the steel is cut the concrete will snap easily.

.


How do I prevent water from streaming into my driveway?

It looks like your land sits a little lower than the adjacent roadway. It would be a cost but if you pave the first 10 ft of your driveway you can make a little berm with that pavement. Since pavement is non-porous the amount of water to overcome a couple of inches of slope would be substantial. Yet those same couple of inches will not be much to drive over. You really only need 0.5% slope for a couple of feet. While your gravel seems solid it likely has enough space between the rocks for water to pass through. If there is storm sewer nearby you could also look into installing a trench drain. Though that would perform better if your driveway was paved. The water would have a tendency to go around the drain and wash out the soil at the edges.
Some interesting links
Pennsylvania Code  has good stuff on the driveway slopes. This picture is from their site.

This is a trench drain.


Without access to breaker box, how do I determine if outlets are on the same circuit?

What you shouldn't do is short one to see if the other breaks too.
First, measure the voltage between the lives of both receptacles. Use an extension cord to get from one close to the other. If it's 240V, then you have two circuits. If it's around 0V you don't know (yet). The extension chord helps you measure between two lives of two different receptacles if the multi-meter probe is not long enough. Remember, you're measuring live-to-live, not live-to-neutral. The live pin of of the socket is the smaller one intended for the smaller plug blade.
Failing insight from the frist test (you got 0V in the above test), do this test: measure the voltage in one receptacle (let's call it "A"). Now you are measuring live-to-neutral in "A". Take note of the reading, it should be about 120V.
Then plug in a large load like a space heater, hair dryer, kettle, AC or mining rig etc... in that same receptacle "A", and measure the voltage. This is a bit tricky, and you can use a power bar to plug in a device and measure at the same time. Power bars are usually not for big loads as intended here, but for a short test this should be fine.
Take note of the reading and observe the voltage drop from 120V in "A". Perhaps you read 118V, corresponding to a 2V drop. The drop could be in the range 1V..3V, and depends on how far you are from the panel and how big the load is.
Then measure the voltage in the other receptacle, call it "B", which is the other one in the room and that you are hoping is on a different circuit. Keep the load running on "A". So now you are loading "A" and measuring live-to-neutral in "B"
If "B" has a similar drop, then both receptacles are on the same circuit. If the drop is notably less (perhaps even 0V), then they are on different circuits.
This trick works if the second circuit for "B" is only lightly loaded. If you can control it, switch of all other heavy loads on "B". Should that not be possible, you can perform this same in opposite order: measure and load "B", and then measure "A" and compare.
Also, it's not laziness that puts two outlets on different circuits. It's material and labour cost, plus it's a desirable feature as you now discover. You have more wattage available in one room, and if one circuit goes out you still have power.


First -- the original wiring configuration was most likely a 300.3(B)/310.10(H) violation due to the hot and neutral taking different routes in addition to currently violating 404.2(C) due to the old-style switch loop -- what you have currently, though, is also a Code violation, but of section 210.70(A)(2)(c):

  (c) Where one or more lighting outlet(s) are installed
  for interior stairways, there shall be a wall switch at each
  floor level, and landing level that includes an entryway, to
  control the lighting outlet(s) where the stairway between
  floor levels has six risers or more.

Fixing this without re-pulling travelers is possible, though, thanks to a gadget called a relay.  You, or your electrician if you feel more comfortable having a pro do this, will need:

14/3 NM cable, sufficient to run from the light to the existing upstairs switch
Wirenuts capable of connecting 14AWG to 18AWG
A RIBU1C SPDT relay-in-a-box
A plastic 1/2" conduit locknut.
Cable clamps as needed
Short lengths of 14AWG white and black wires to serve as pigtails

Turn off power to both circuits -- the downstairs circuit at the main panel, and the upstairs circuit at the subpanel.
Open the boxes for the light and both switches.
Remove any cable clamps that were holding the 14/2 from the light to the upstairs switch in place.
Disconnect the 14/2 from the light and the upstairs switch, as well as the box ground pigtails.
Connect the new 14/3 to the old 14/2 so that when you pull the old wire out, you pull the new wire in.
Pull the old 14/2 from the light to the upstairs switch out (box fill issues prevent us from leaving it in place).
Run the 14/3 from the light to the upstairs switch, and install it in the boxes using the new cable clamps.
Connect the 14/3 to the light as follows: red -- open terminal on light, black -- wirenutted to the hot, bare -- connected to the ground bundle.
Disconnect the incoming white wire from the light, and connect it to the new white and the white pigtail with a nut.  Connect the white pigtail to the light.
Knock out one of the 1/2" (small) conduit knockouts in the upstairs switch box.
Thread the wires of the RIBU1C through the conduit knockout from the outside, and screw it to the conduit knockout, using a locknut to secure it on the inside.  (You will have to remove a bit of drywall to install it -- there is nothing in the NEC that prohibits an arbitrary device from being installed in an inaccessible location.)
Remove the switch from the upstairs switch box.
Remove the switch from the downstairs switch box and replace it with the switch from the upstairs switch box.  Wire the new single pole switch as follows: old traveler 1 -- switch common terminal, old traveler 2 -- switch switched terminal, old hot -- cap off with wire nut.
Install the three-way switch from the downstairs switch box into the upstairs switch box, wiring it as follows: common terminal -- black pigtail, traveler terminal 1 -- blue wire from relay, traveler terminal 2 -- orange wire from relay, green ground terminal -- ground bundle (with box ground and ground from 14/3 incoming -- the RIBU1C needs no ground, as it's in a plastic box)
Wire old traveler 1 to the black pigtail and the incoming black wire from the 14/3 cable,
Finish wiring the relay as follows: black/white wire -- old traveler 2, blue/white wire -- cap off with wire nut, yellow/white wire -- white wire from 14/3 cable, yellow wire -- red wire from 14/3 cable
Put the boxes back together.
Turn the upstairs circuit back on -- the downstairs circuit has been removed from the picture entirely, so it can be left off.
Enjoy your new 3-way switch!

Note that while this setup may not appear to fix the 404.2(C) issue with the current configuration, it falls under 404.2(C)(5) as the neutral is available in the upstairs box:

  (C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded
  circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be
  provided at the location where switches control lighting
  loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose
  branch circuit for other than the following:

...

  (5) Where multiple switch locations control the same lighting load such that the entire floor area of the room or space is visible from the single or combined switch locations


What could have caused my GFCI to trip, and what can I do about it?

I have seen surges or dips in voltage trip GFIs. Can't explain why, but I have seen it.
Also, older GFIs were slightly more prone to nuisance tripping. If they are more than a few years old replacing them would not hurt one bit.

These two are not on the same circuit by any chance are they? I sincerely hope not, but it would explain things.


How do I properly patch a 3/4" hole in a kitchen ceiling?

I'd use a setting-type compound (like Easysand 45) for this. Premix compound will take a long time to dry and will shrink quite a bit. Mix to a consistency of thick peanut butter.

I'd also try to not disturb the surrounding area, filling only the hole itself as deeply as possible. Finish by dabbing compound on the patch with a small paintbrush or the corner of a rag to replicate the nearby texture. The smaller the patch, the less noticeable it will be.

If you don't have touchup paint on hand, flat white from a spray can may work. Test on a scrap of cardboard to check the match.


Why doesn't my replacement lighting work after my old fixture died?

It sounds like you have a fixture controlled by a conventional dimmer and are using CFL non-dimmable bulbs.

Standard dimmers were designed for incandescent bulbs. Many CFL and LED bulbs are non-dimmable. Some are dimmable, but only work with special dimmers designed for their electronic circuitry (conventional bulbs have no circuitry, only simple filaments). Some CFL or LED (not many) will work with a standard dimmer.

First you need to make sure the bulbs are dimmable, and then that you have a compatible dimmer.

In general, CFL and LED bulb packages indicate whether they are dimmable or not. If it does not say dimmable, it is probably not. Dimmers also indicate whether they are intended for CFL and/or LED bulbs. Again, if it doesn't mention CFL or LED, it is probably not compatible, unless you have bulbs that specifically say works with standard (or conventional) dimmers.

Check the fixture by using an incandescent bulb. If it works, either go with incandescent, find CFL or LED bulbs that work with standard dimmers or swap out the dimmer.

If the incandescent doesn't work, you have a wiring problem or a defective fixture.


How can I resurface concrete sidewalks for easier cleaning?

The pressure washer erodes some of the surface.  The rougher surface is safer for walking (less likely to get slippery when wet), but it also gives mold, algae, and lichen a better foothold.  Once they get established, they embed themselves in pores, micro-cracks, and other imperfections below the surface.  Getting rid of it by pressure washing requires eroding more and more of the surface, which compounds the problem.

Independent of resurfacing, you need to first get rid of the growth.  Chemical treatment is a better long-term solution than pressure washing because it doesn't keep making the surface more susceptible, and some chemicals will help to prevent regrowth.

There are a number of disinfectant cleaners based on benzalkonium chloride, such as "Wet and Forget" or "Spray and Forget".  These are often sold as concentrates that you dilute to about 2% active ingredients.  Those products are pricey, but the same ingredients are used to kill algae in swimming pools, and is much less expensive.  For example:

This is a 30% concentrate that you dilute to 2%, so it goes a long way.  If the problem is mold or algae, you spray the surface to saturate it.  If there is also lichen, you respray the surface a second time while it is still wet from the first spray.

You don't rinse it off or scrub, just let it soak in and dry.  It is very slow acting.  It can take days to weeks to kill the growth.  Weather then washes away the dead material over time (months).  They recommend not pressure washing it because supposedly, residual disinfectant gets redissolved by rain and kills deeper layers of growth.  A treatment is supposed to prevent new growth for a year, so once you get rid of it, repeat a single treatment once a year.

There are lots of other chemicals that will kill it.  For example:

"Cloudy" (sudsing) ammonia diluted 1 cup per gallon of water will kill mold or algae.  Lichen will require 1 part ammonia to 4 parts water and scrubbing.  It can take a week for the dead growth to wash away and it doesn't leave any protection against regrowth.
Chlorine bleach 3% solution and some scrubbing will get rid of it.  It's the most common ingredient in fast-acting mold cleaners.  However, it doesn't leave any protection against regrowth and requires work.  Chlorine bleach will also discolor the concrete.
Vinegar will kill it but is less effective, will corrode the concrete, and doesn't leave any protection against regrowth.
Borax solution will kill it but requires scrubbing.  It will leave a protective residue, but it isn't clear whether that's good for the concrete.
Washing soda (sodium carbonate), like borax, will require scrubbing and will leave a protective residue, but again, it isn't clear whether that's good for the concrete.  It's the active ingredient in Concrobium Mold Control (1% solution).  It also isn't clear how fast the borax or washing soda residue will wash away in the rain.
Oxygen bleach, like OxyClean, is sodium percarbonate, which breaks down into hydrogen peroxide and washing soda.  So it's an expensive alternative to washing soda that adds some weak bleaching action (maximum hydrogen peroxide concentration of 3%, same as over-the-counter solution), but it won't discolor the concrete.  It's the active ingredient in Concrobium Mold Stain Eraser.

As Ecnerwal notes in a comment, don't randomly mix cleaning chemicals.  Some, like ammonia and chlorine bleach, create toxic gas when mixed.  Even when used alone in these concentrations, you should wear protective gear when spraying or handling many of these materials as they can damage or irritate your lungs, eyes, or skin, and at least the chlorine bleach will also do a number on your clothing.

I don't recommend trying to seal the surface.  I'm currently dealing with a previously sealed surface.  The sealant worked great for a number of years.  Nasty stuff is now growing under the sealant, and the sealant blocks all chemical treatments.

As far as resurfacing, you could polish the surface, but that would be dangerous for walking and wouldn't make a big difference at this point as far as growth.  You might be able to bond a new surface layer to the top that contains growth-inhibiting material, but that isn't likely to hold up long-term.

The "best" solution is probably to use chemicals to kill what's there and leave a growth inhibitor.  Then once a year, pressure wash at a low pressure to clean off the surface without eroding more concrete.  Let it thoroughly dry, then re-treat it with a growth inhibitor.


How do I determine which wax ring to use under my toilet?

How tall the ring is depends on how close the toilet's outlet horn is to the flange. Under ideal conditions, the standard ring is just a bit too tall so that it compresses just enough to form a good seal without squeezing out into the drainage path and causing an obstruction.

Toilets with more than normal spacing will need a taller ring to achieve a proper seal. But if you use a tall ring without the flange on a properly spaced toilet installation, excess wax will be squeezed into the drainage path, causing an undesirable obstruction. This is why double height rings are often sold with flanges, the flange keeps the wax out of the drainage path.

But the flange itself is a bit smaller than the outlet pipe, so it forms a bit of an obstruction itself. Thus, it's not something you want to use unless there's a good chance you'll need it.

You can estimate which height ring is needed and if a flange is a good idea or not by placing a straight edge along the base of the inverted toilet and measuring from the straight edge to the ceiling of the toilet base. Adjust this measurement by how high or low the floor flange surface is from finished floor. The wax ring should be compressed around 1/2 to 3/4 it's initial height once installed. If it will compress less, you need a taller ring. If it will compress more, consider getting one with a flange to limit wax extrusion into the drainage path.


Yes, the gaps are a “Fire Code” issue, ( in the U.S., anyway...I don’t know about Canada, but I suspect it’s similar.)

You indicate your building is 3 stories plus a basement. In the U.S., this requires “Fire Resistant” construction, unless there are automatic fire sprinklers throughout the building.

What this means is that gypsum board must be on each side of each wall to protect the structural framework of the building. They call this a “1-hour Fire rating”. Without this gypsum board covering the building is “non-rated construction” and the building is limited to 2 stories.

Gaps in the gypsum board covering is of utmost concern in the electrical room where a fire is of extreme importance.

I would notify my HOA or building management services of this concern. If they do not take action, I’d notify your local Building Official of your concern.

I doubt the gaps are creating a smell into your unit. There may be a broken sewerline in the wall that allows a smell to seep into your unit. If you cal “rattle” pipes, that would be an indication that pipes are loose, broken, etc.

Another option to your smell situation could be that a vent below you is tied into your sewerline allowing the smell to seep into your unit through the plumbing vents. You’ll need access to the lower units and a smart plumber to figure that one out.


Cleaning and staining a fence with segments of different color and age

The best thing you can do is try and reason with your neighbors. Good fences do make good neighbors and having been in the fence business for 30 years I know how it can be.

Try to explain to your neighbor's that you would like to stain the fence to preserve it. And that you will be paying for the stain and supplying all the labor.

Treating the fence will indeed add many years to the life of the fence. They might consider it if you approached them that way.

But no, you have what is called a shadow box style fence with lattice. Treating one side will not preserve it and there is no way to not get treatment on the other side. It will also look horrible from their side having partially stained areas. Even if your doing it just for aesthetics the same problem will arise.

If they agree when you use the pressure washer be sure and adjust the flow so the stream does not cut into the wood leaving what will look like scrape marks.

The product I use is Preserveawood. It is found only in Home Depot stores. There are three colors, Redwood, Pacific Redwood which is a bit darker and Cedar. Right next to where they sell the Preservawood they sell those little sprayers like bug sprayers. They put them there for a reason. The sealer comes in 5 gallon buckets. One bucket is good for a 400 lf.' of 6' high fence. Cost is about $125 for 5 gallons, $17.00 for the sprayer. DO NOT get the $10.00 sprayer it will clog up.

Just be sure and mix it well, pour it in the bug sprayer and spray it on. The sprayers come with 3 fan tips that give an even spray. Use gloves because it is oil base. The wood sucks the treatment up. Very easy and effective. It will last for 5 years or more actually.


What work is needed in changing a two prong to a three prong outlet?

If you only have one or two places where you need three-prong receptacles, you don't have to figure out which is "first" (nearest the panel).  The NEC (since at least 1987) also allows you to replace ANY ordinary, non-grounding (two-prong) receptacle with a non-grounded, 3-prong GFCI receptacle. Marking it as having "no equipment ground" was added as a later requirement, as mentioned by Ecnerwal.


How do I remove plastic bag print from outside surface of washing machine?

I don't see bleach on your list of things? Red has a real problem with bleach. If that doesn't work, you may try WD-40 or even carburetor cleaner. Just use either with a lot of fresh air available. Soft Scrub works pretty well for this kind of thing, too, but it uses bleach, so may not be any better than using straight bleach.


How can I add a relay to the manual control for my HVAC unit?

The wiring for the empty terminals is likely behind the board you can see, connecting the terminals to a common source, probably power, but not necessarily.

You will want a normally open relay for all but the 1A function, so that no power is required for the stop condition. For any given function, you'll need separate poles for each of the states that are different than stop. For high heat, you need a normally open 4 pole relay, or a couple double pole relays. When powered, close 3,4,7, & 8. That takes care of the HVAC switches. How to power the relays from an IR/RF signal, I've no idea, except that it's done all the time, so should be just a matter of finding the right hardware.


I think you'll need to pass through pipe threads in the adapter part of the world if you want this done with hose.
I do see PEX to FGHT (female garden hose thread) fittings, so if you are coming from a hose bibb and going into this you could use PEX rather than hose, with a FGHT fitting at the one end and MPT (male pipe thread) or FPT (female pipe thread) fitting at the other end.


How to fix a leaking trim plate in shower

That is a Moen brand shower valve and trim. The escutcheon (trim plate) comes with a foam gasket surrounding the hole. When you push the trim plate over the stainless steel stop tube (cartridge cover), or when you push the stop tube through the escutcheon, the foam seals around it. The inside of the stop tube is leak free because it slides down over o-rings on the cartridge.

Italics indicate "official" part name.

You need a new escutcheon.

Can't comment on your "spigot" because we can't see it in your picture.

NOTE: this assembly is designed to resist incidental splashing. Prolonged exposure to high-pressure water douching will leak even with brand new parts. I have found them sealed up with caulking, which will work, but makes it a bitch to repair and therefore I charge more $$.


I'm 95% confident that, in this case, it was nickel sulfide contaminant.  I took photos of the epicenter of the shatter and zoomed in on the computer.  The contaminant is pretty clear to see:

This is pretty much exactly what articles like these show: https://www.constructionspecifier.com/fully-tempered-glass-and-spontaneous-fracture/2/


Need help on wiring on these kind of outlet

The upper one, notice how one slot is slightly taller than the other.  That one is neutral.   Now depending on where you are exactly in the Philippines, sometimes there isn't a neutral wire at all, and the two legs are two hots, both 120V from ground, in which case it doesn't matter.

To connect the second socket, you go buy some 12 AWG wire and use the extra holes to jumper to the second socket.  Use white or light blue for neutral.

On the lower socket, throw that Chinese cheapie in the trash before it burns your house down.  It's not the Chinese that's the problem, it's

The socket promises ground, but you cannot provide ground.  That means you can plug in devices which depend on grounding to be safe, which is not safe!
Trying to accommodate so many types of plug, it doesn't do any of them well. You risk series arcing on any load bigger than a cell phone charger.
if your house has neutral, Type A/B plugs expect neutral on the left, whereas Type G plugs expect neutral on the right.  This matters if the tool isn't double insulated, and lots of A/B/G devices do depend on polarization and/or grounding for safety.

Polarization is why the upper socket has a taller slot on the left.  Polarization means "this pin is near ground" which is something you cannot promise in many places in the Philippines.   This varies block by block, it depends how your block's supply transformer is jumpered.

The upper "universal" one isn't so good either.  It takes two kinds of plugs: a Europlug, which is fine, but it also takes an American style NEMA 1-15.  The latter socket also takes a NEMA 1-15. Those are only for 100-127V power.  It is quite the habit in the Philippines to fit NEMA 1 and 5 onto 240V appliances.  That should not be done, and yes, I know "everybody does it".  Change them to some sort of Europlug, Schuko, Russian, British or Australian plugs, or even the very similar American NEMA 2 or 6 which are actually for 240V. Anything but NEMA 1 or 5.

I know Euro style plugs are a morass of conflicting designs, but settle on one and fit those sockets and plugs.  Combo sockets are no good generally.

The Philippines have three styles of power in use:

220V European style power, with neutral grounded, the standard on 4-1/2 continents.
220V Philippines special, with ground halfway (110V) between the two wires, neither is neutral.  At some point in the future, they plan to move the ground jumper on the transformer to make it the first style.
110V  North American style, with neutral grounded. The latter is now outlawed because Freedom(tm). These are slowly being converted to the second style, which is easy to do.  They cannot leap from this style to #1 in one step or they'll smoke everyone's appliances.


Do I need to replace my copper gas line before installing a new dryer? Why?

Sounds like a liability issue. If they hook it up and the line breaks or leaks, they can be held liable. They probably want a gas flex line (something like this) installed between the copper and appliance.

If I were you, I'd get a gasfitter out to have one installed and hook up the appliance (which means future deliverers will install it). You don't want to be wrong on a gas line.


HVAC: adding a C wire for Nest thermostat

I'm not sure if I have solved the problem or not; but I checked the two leads against earth ground with my multimeter and it turned out the wire I thought was Rh was in fact W – the polarity of the wires had been switched when the new boiler was installed.
I switched the wires and now my Nest seems happy, although it still claims low battery. At least I can control the heat now. Will post any updates if the problem comes back.


Water heater pilot light won't stay lit. Plumber says it's attic heat

I realize this is an old question, but it's hot once again and the question may come up for someone else.. so I thought I'd venture an answer. I don't work as a heating/cooling professional, I'm just a homeowner.

Your plumber may be right, and from my experience, it is uncommon that he'd know that (unless, like you said, he was trying to get the home warranty company out of a bill and happened to stumble on the cause).

When your attic gets hot, and there is bad or no circulation, according to Charles' law, the pressure in your attic increases. If it gets hot enough, it can increase high enough that it can suffocate the pilot flame. So if you have no circulation in a hot attic, you can definitely snuff out the pilot flame. Replacing the water heater may not fix the problem. But probably neither would circulating the high pressure air in place with a box fan.

Check your venting situation, especially the passive elements. For example, if you have soffits, make sure they have not become clogged with blown insulation. I would take a blower of some sort (a shopvac that can be reversed for example) and blow them from the outside. Also, look from inside the attic and check what the situation is. If you've had recently blown insulation, it could definitely have caused a problem.

So my suggestion - clean your soffits and evaluate your passive ventilation. Resist the impulse to add active ventilation unless you know what you are doing (they can cause issues). If you can't figure out the problem, it may need the experience of an experienced roofing contractor who understands how to calculate your roofing needs and install additional ventilation. It could be that your two turbines are sufficient, but you are not getting enough air in through soffits and other inlets, for them to pull out. You can google for various formulas to consider how many feet of soffits or ridge vents/passive ventilation you need. If you have no soffits and only a non-functional active fan to push air in, that's probably your problem. I'd add soffits.

By the way, it is possible that as your water heater has aged, it is more sensitive to the increased pressure. This I don't know, I am just theorizing, and someone with practical experience should chime in. Replacing parts or replacing the heater may help or fix the problem, if you are just on the edge of the issue. If you've already fixed the issue, it would be interesting to learn what solution you finally arrived to.


How should I protect the metal of a power rack that's kept outdoors?

The finish shown is a type of paint - "Hammerite" is either the name, or the brand name of the most popular/first version. It's presumably on mild steel. However, any automotive paint should work (think about it) - and COULD be cheap if you have a cooperative paint shop and you don't care what color it is (ie, they can spray some excess when they spray something else, so it's not a special job where they have to mix paint and clean the spray guns just for your tiny job.) Some shops will, some shops won't - all you can do is ask.

Chrome is probably a bad idea - it's relatively expensive and the electro-plating process can increase the odds of steel cracking from hydrogen embrittlement.

Hot dip galvanizing (zinc coating) is probably a good option if you can find a shop with a tank big enough - ask around for places that do boat trailers - covers inside and out (be sure to put in holes so it can drain out, or you'll get a tubeful of zinc and a larger than expected bill for the coating process), and is durable in weather. It only comes in one color, which changes over time from shiny silver to a dull gray. It is preferable to using galvanized steel stock to build from, because you coat the whole object after fabrication, so the welded joints are protected.

Powder coating should work fine. It may chip a bit on the top section where the weight bar sits. It comes in many colors, and is fairly tough as compared to most paints - but hard to repair if it does chip.

By far the most cost effective method usually is to do through cleaning and preparation (the key to ANY paint job lasting) and paint it yourself, using a primer for steel (zinc chromate primer, for instance) and a topcoat - then keep an eye on it and sand and repaint whenever you see signs of new rust. You could use either the mentioned oil coating or an automotive undercoating on the inside of the tubes if feeling particularly cautious.


Tiling over the bathtub lip vs up to the lip

I have good news for you - it does not matter!
Whether you tile over or under the lip (it's over and should be obvious why), you will absolutely be destroying the bottom of the water proofing of that shower/tub system - either way.   There is no way you are getting a tub out and a new one back in like they are lego blocks.   Good luck, never seen it - ever.
So you would rather install your tiles wrong and chance having water issues on the walls and have to take down an entire wall or a few walls, so you might be able to replace tub?   Hmmmm.
OK so if you are hazy on this tub.   If it is of low quality or you don't think it will last, you should spend money on new tub before doing anything to your walls.   You can get a good cast iron tub used for 300-400 plus another 300 to reface it.   Minus a refacing every 10-15 years it should last forever.   Tubs and shower pans are not items that can be swapped.   They are the bottom edge of a waterproofing system and once you try to swap them you take a huge chance of water issues - and thats given you have the room to get old one out and new one in without having to rip things down.


Will layered roofing paper help level a floor?

There is nothing wrong with using roofing paper or even shingles (my favorite) if there is a floor slight out of level.  Floor leveler is an option too but I usually use floor leveler for floating floors and shim traditional hardwood with shingles.

The reason for this is leveler sometimes has issues with staples or nails going through it.  I prefer shingles vs any other type of shim because shingles don't break, take nails well, and they don't need to be compressed.  There are limits to how much you can shim but that is true with a leveler too.  But innately there is nothing wrong with shimming flooring with roofing paper/shingles.

One thing I would add.  If you are redoing all the flooring, if you can have the joists checked out below it is a good time.  The flooring guys probably don't care about this - as the trades usually don't mix.  But the flooring might be able to be leveled with a set of jacks and the new floor could be installed without shims or leveler.


Repairing 1000W wall heater: Burnt cable, serious issue?

Looks to me like a simple poor termination. Pretty common unfortunately.

If you are replacing that harness (I also see damaged/nicked wire) then you should be fine considering the rest of the unit is in good shape.


Magnetic Mortise Latch for American Style Doors

When closing the door -- turn the knob to retract the latch tongue, pull the door quietly shut and hold it there, then turn the knob back to quietly let the latch tongue into the strike plate.
With a little practice you can do this absolutely silently.
When your children are older they will learn to do this when they want to sneak out.


OK, so, you'll need exactly one controller, and one or more amplifiers depending on how fancy you want to get.  You don't show any of that on your drawing.

The Controller takes 12VDC power and outputs R,G,B and Common. This can be both the signal driving any number of amplifiers, or the power driving a limited number of LED strips.

The important component is the amplifier.   It inputs two things: a power input of 12V in large amounts; and a signal input consisting of R,G,B and C (common) from a controller.  The signal input is simply the RGBC output of the controller.  The amplifier outputs LED drive output consisting of R, G, B and C (common).  This can feed one or several LED strings, limited by the rating of the power supply and the amplifier.

The minimum configuration

Install the controller just past the power supply on the lower right.  The controller will directly drive the bottom-edge LED string.

At the place you mark "connector", the botton LED strip will be totally severed from the other LED strips.  However, a 4-wire (RGBC) cable will continue onward from the end of this LED strip, and it will go to the amplifier.  These can be very small wires, they carry virtually no current.

The top center power supply will be replaced by a power supply and an amplifier.  The power supply output goes to the amplifier power input.  The signal input comes from the 4-wire cable from the bottom-edge strip.  The amplifier's RGBC output will then drive both LED strips along the top, left and right.


Can I prevent the horizontal seams from showing or allowing in excessive moisture when installing T1-11 siding?

The reason you don’t see T1-11 scabbed in is because you have to use Z flange to keep moisture out. Z flange is a metal flange that mounts behind comes out and goes over the lower sheet in a z shape. This prevents water from getting in it will seal but is obvious.


How to remove ceiling joist cross blocks without tearing up roof?

Tools required:

Standard wood chisel or flat bar
Hammer, 16 oz. or larger
Reciro-saw (Sawzall) and a long blade, preferrably fine-toothed

Procedure:

Cut any nails driven through the rafters and into the ends of the blocks:

Drive the rafters outward with the hammer to create a small gap between them and the blocks, one at a time, then run the saw blade through the gap.

Cut the nails driven through the roof deck:

Drive the chisel or flat bar between the sheathing and the block at several locations to create a gap.
Cut the nails by running the saw blade through the gap. Flex the blade to force it to run along the inside surface of the sheathing and not cut into it or the blocks.


What should I check for before turning on an OLD dish washer for the first time?

Check the water line connections. I would open the bottom access panel, and watch for any leaks while you run it the first time. Often the parts used are not of the greatest quality, including the solenoid valve that controls the water.

On that note, make sure there is a manual shut-off valve, so you can turn it off quickly if there is a leak.

Beyond that, just make sure you run it through a cycle to ensure it's clean.


Switches and outlets not working after short to ground

It sounds like you fried the GFCI. 2 things that I Usually to to make it safe. turn the power off. With double gang or metal boxes wrap a couple layers of electrical tape around the terminals of the outlet or switch. Replacing the GFCI would be my first step. the outlet may work but not pass power to the other devices.


Is it acceptable to use multiple PVC couplings when routing a drain through joists?

Coupling a drain through the joists are even done in new work, sometimes it is the only way.

Cast iron and especially any galvanized pipe connected to it will sure rust through over the ages. If you have any galvanized pipe in place and you yank on it a bit, you may find it readily cracks loose or separates at the joints. If the cast iron is in good shape, many times the shaking of the pipes during renovation will cause the leaded joints to leak.


Water is either coming up from below (a rising water table) or its coming from surface water (the surrounding ground water in the saturated soil.) Either way, it needs to be collected and carried away.

IMHO, it’s preferred to collect and deal with the water outside of the basement.

If it comes up from a rising water table, it will enter the living space from below through cracks between the foundation wall and slab.

If it comes from the surrounding ground water, it COULD enter the living space through the wall, especially if the exterior side of the foundation wall is not sealed properly.
Either way the moisture enters the living space it will need to be collected and disposed. I think the best way to collect it is on the exterior side of the foundation wall in drainrock and a perf pipe laid 6”-8” below the basement slab.

To keep the subsurface water from seeping through the wall, I recommend installing a moisture barrier on the exterior side of the foundation wall and install a 2” thick plastic mesh on the wall to allow water to flow down to the perf pipe. If dirt is allowed to be backfilled against the wall, the dirt could hold the moisture giving it a chance to seep through the wall.

Once collected it needs to be disposed by extending a solid pipe over an embankment or in a collection well enclosure and pumped away.

IMHO, it’s preferred to collect and dispose of the moisture on the outside of the basement, rather than inside the basement. This will eliminate the possibility of mold inside the basement and eliminate a possible power failure causing the sump pump to fail (even with battery backups) and thus water damage. This may be the most expensive method of solving the problem, but it’s sure to work.

One reason your footings are so much lower than your basement slab is due to the frost line. If so, you may need heat tape on your drain and float switch.


Where is electrical trench measured from on slope?

The depth of the trench is measured from the final grade above the conduit.  So It would be measured from a point right above the conduit, which would be about the average of the slope.  However, most inspectors aren't going to ding you for an inch or two. In fact, most inspectors don't even measure, unless it looks too shallow.


Vanity countertop support for piece over toilet

Most natural stone won't cantilever that far without breaking. Even a synthetic like corian may or may not work.

There's probably a narrow ledger (~1x2) supporting the back.


Whirlpool Duet front-loading washer won't spin

The pump is bad or you use too much soap. Run a load without soap. If a load of clean clothes makes suds in the washer, you definitely use too much soap.
The pump can't pump suds -shopyourway.com

Of course it could be a senor malfunctioning somewhere...


Question about end caps on Pex lines for Washer in new house

If those were crimped-on end-caps you'd have to cut them off - but they look like "sharkbite" fittings, which can be removed. If you lack the special tool, close an adjustable wrench down to the size of the pipe, and use it to push the tan collar into the fitting.

Search for "sharkbite adjustable wrench trick" or "how to remove a sharkbite" if that's unclear. If all else fails, cut them off. Try to be sure the water is shut off first.

99.9% of washer hookups are "garden hose thread" so I suspect 3/4 pipe thread would be the wrong choice.