Light Switch with 2 black wires and one red

Conduit or armored cable?

These colors are a bit disturbing. One wire looks positively greenish.  The cable entry at the top of your box could either be conduit such as EMT, or it could be an armored cable clamp.  Armored cable forces you into 1 color choice: black-white-green, and that one wire looks kinda green.  It might be blue or gray.

Green wires can only be used for grounds.  Grounds must be green, green/yellow, or bare and nothing else can use those colors.

So we need to test for conduit vs. armored cable.

Firmly grab the black wire and  hold it so it cannot move.
Grab the white wire and push it up 1/4 inch, then pull it back down 1/4 inch.

If the white wire moves easily, you are in conduit.  If the white wire fights, binds and wants to buckle, then you are in armored cable.

Armored cable

That means the wire is green which makes this a real botch job.  You're not allowed to use a green wire for anything but a ground.  THat wire must be re-tasked to be a ground.  Since  you have both ends opened up, remove the red tape from both ends of the green. What were they thinking?

Now fix the grounds properly.  Back of the box is a little hole on a dimple. That's tapped 10-32.  They make cute little green ground screws that are 10-32, even.  Regardless, you ground the boxes (here and in the ceiling) by putting a 10-32 screw in 'em and pigtail off those with 9" long sections of SOLID wire.

Good news is, since this is cable, it is legal to re-mark a white wire to be a hot.  They've even used the preferred color for switched-hot!  So with the grounds fixed, you are all set to use the black and "red" wires to go to the switch. You can leave it on the existing switch, but if you do that, you'll have a dead switch.  I recommend just get a single switch, they are $2.

Conduit

It looks like THHN wire, which is what you use in conduit.  In that case, that strange wire could actually be blue.

However, in conduit, it is illegal to re-mark neutrals to be hots.  First thing you do, tear off that red tape off the white wire on both ends, that does not belong there. Unfortunately we often see electricians who spend their whole career working in Romex, they do a little work in conduit and just use the same color codes - e.g. black and white in a switch loop.  Not allowed!

Gray is also a color reserved for neutral.  If that odd wire is gray, you need to do the same thing - remove the tape on both ends, it doesn't belong there.  And that actually works in your favor - making this wire an actual neutral will help this box support smart switches.

But neutral is not required (unless your switch needs it). There's a rule that switch loops must have neutral, but conduit is exempt because it's so easy to add another wire.

If the odd wire is green, then it can only be a ground.  Do the same thing I said under AC.  However if the conduit is metal conduit, the ground wire is actually redundant.

Now if this leaves you a black and blue-taped-red wire, you're all set.  Those two wires go to the switch and the blue-red wire goes to your lamp.  Easy.

However, if the above restrictions leave you with only a black - you will need to "pull" an additional wire for  switched-hot.  The allowed colors are black brown red orange yellow pink blue or violet.  You need THWN-2 wire the same size as the other wires.  So rough-guess your distance, and off to the electrical supply house to buy that.

Some wires may be expendable/useless, which may help pulling another wire. How to pull is beyond the scope of this answer, but there are plenty of answers here about it.


How should I mount a sliding closet door track?

Why not trim out the door like you normally would?

Install a frame in the opening.

Install casing around the opening.

Then mount your track to the upper part of the door frame.


Uneven copper bellow threading when replacing copper pipes with PEX

Maybe you can use a hand file or a sharpening stone to get a surface flat enough for the ring washer to seal on, hand-held power tools are unlikely to produce a satisfactory result. But your best bet is probably teflon thread sealing tape. it takes crazy amounts of tape to get a good seal. put 6 or 7 layers on

That hose clamp looks kind of dodgy, I think those connectors are intended for use with crimp rings, you should probably use a connector system that you have the correct tools for, EG one of the push-on or screw compression types,


The NEC and your state codes do not reference size of service.
Washington Administrative Code 296-46B-250-053 (A)(2) Resistance of rod, pipe, and plate electrodes.
(3) For rod, pipe, and plate electrodes other than those installed in accordance with the exception in subsection (2) of this section, if a ground resistance test is not performed to ensure a resistance to ground of 25 ohms or less, two or more electrodes as specified in NEC 250.52 must be installed a minimum of 6 feet apart. A temporary construction service is not required to have more than one made electrode.
NEC 250.52 says "at least 15.87 mm (5/8 in.) in diameter, unless listed."


Will this light fixture wiring pass inspection?

What is being created is a "switched neutral," which is not proper and not allowed according to the NEC. It's possible, but highly unusual, to run the hot through the switch instead of the neutral and create a switched hot with a separate neutral path back to the breaker. That would be better than a switched hot, but may still be disallowed by NEC and I would never encourage anyone to wire a fixture that way either. The wiring shown in your first diagram, or wiring that runs the line to the switch first and switches the hot there, are the proper methods to wire a switched light.


Can you sister floor joists with smaller boards?

Does adding a sister that is smaller than the original joist actually increase strength at all?

Yes.  They will both bear the load.

  If so, does it need to be sistered at the bottom (so both beams touch the sill) or does it still add strength if sistered to be flush on the top?

As long as the joists are attached together with sufficient strength, the force will be carried by both joists through the entire length of the span, but the larger joist will transfer all of the load to the sill.  That will work.

Now if the joists are the same size, the attachment from joist to joist is not so critical - they can share the load from the floor without transferring part of that load from one to the other.

  To extend the question, does a sistered joist that doesn't go the full span add strength?

Yes, it will add some strength, although calculating just how much strength it will add may be difficult.


Adding transformers will not "stabilize" anything, I have no idea where you got that idea, but it's wrong. Sometimes people step up the voltage to a higher level (like 480V) and back down again for a long distance run so that the current is less, because less current results in less voltage drop since voltage drop is a function of I (current) Squared / R (resistance, in this case of the wire itself).

But you can ALSO just decrease the R by using larger gauge wire, which would cost you a LOT less than adding transformers. There are on-line Voltage Drop calculators that will give you the size of wire you need. According to one that I found, to have no more than a 3% VD on a full 20A load at 120V, you would use #4 Cu wire or #2 Al.


How much cooling can I expect from a central air conditioner?

A properly functioning and properly sized central air conditioning unit should be able to maintain the temperature of your house at any reasonable temperature you select.  The amount of cooling available is related to the size of the system, insulation in the house, and finally outside air temperature.

From your description I would guess either you don't have a big enough compressor, or you don't have enough airflow through the house.  It's also possible the cooling element in the system has become dirty and no longer transfers enough heat from the air into the element.


Conduit is still your friend

Even though running rigid EMT back to the main panel from the basement junction box is basically impractical with all those other cables in the way, it is still possible to stay in conduit all the way back to the panel.  How? Flexible conduit, that's how!

In particular, instead of running a cable (or cables) back to the panel, we replace all the existing cabling between the panel and the basement JB with 3/4" FMC, using a 90° fitting to come into the bottom of the basement JB as the EMT going up to the third floor leaves very little room to do anything else.  We can then pull wires as-needed through that FMC: 3 6AWG THHN feeder wires, 4 14AWG THHNs for the existing 15A branch circuits, and a 10AWG or 8AWG bare ground will all fit through a 3/4" FMC, although it will be a tight pull, or you could pull wires for the MWBC route through it if you preferred, using a 12AWG bare ground from the panel to the basement JB.  (The reason for the ground wire here is that FMC isn't allowed to be a grounding conductor by itself when more than 6' of it is used in a run.)

And yes, 6AWG is (more than) fine for a 60A subpanel

Anyone who is telling you that 6AWG is insufficient for 60A is full of hooey, as a 6AWG THHN copper wire landed on 75°C connectors and terminations (all modern distribution-equipment terminations are slash rated 60°C/75°C, which means that 110.14(C)(1)'s 60°C termination limit does not apply to them), and otherwise allowed to run at 75°C (as a wire in conduit is), is good for 65A.  (In fact, thanks to the 240.4(B) round-up rule, you can use it for a 70A subpanel, even, although there's no point to that in your case.)

The only caveat for this is that the wire connectors used in the junction boxes must also be rated for 75°C usage.  This is true of most mechanical set-screw (Polaris™ or equivalent) connectors, as well as of decent quality wire-nuts, but may not be true in all cases, so do check the specs on what you're using.

GO BIG OR GO HOME

When it comes to subpanel shopping, you will want to go big here.  A 24-space or 30-space, 125A, main lug subpanel is not at all out of place here; if you wished to stick with GE, a TLM2412CCU (if you don't mind grey) or TLM2412CCUW (if "default electrical panel grey" would be a bothersome edition to the decor; the W suffix stands for a unit that's factory painted white) with a TGK32 ground bar field-fitted would be a good choice here.

As to getting wires from the third floor junction box into the subpanel, I would use a LB, accessed from the opposite side of the wall, and a 3/4" EMT run inside the stud bay to come down into the top of the panel.  This will require a bit of patchwork, but gives you a 100% conduit installation while letting you flush mount the panel.  Of course, if you'd rather have the panel surface mounted, that's an option as well, clear space permitting, and would let you simply run a length of 3/4" EMT down from the third floor junction box to the top of the panel.


Open Neutral Circuit yet all circuits outlets and wiring appear connected

I have two questions.. Is there a box with neutrals wire nutted together? Second, Is there a fixture on the circuit? Ceiling fan..light...
I have actually seen certain smoke detectors cause a loss of power.
It seems like you covered most areas as I would have.. The only other things I could recommend would be ohm out the outlet after removing it from circuit. Test actual wires for power after removing outlet. If no power to wires then its usually left or right of bad outlet. Also if there's critters around they could have bit threw a wire. Furry tail tree rats love eating wires in the attic


What is the cause of wooden flooring gaps?

The flooring was probably mis-milled.
Wood flooring has to be cut, dried, accumulated, fit, nailed, etc. perfectly or you’ll have big gaps.
Often the manufacturers point the finger at installers, when actually it’s their problem.
The way to check is to hold two boards up and push them together. If one slips through then it’s too loose a fit between the tongue and groove. There’s no amount of acclimation or nailing that can fix that.
We’ve had many gymnasiums floors removed and replaced because it doesn’t meet grade. (You can see the manufacturers cry when it’s chainsawed out of there.)
Follow the Western Woods Use Flooring guise (National guide).
Hint: test a zillion boards to make sure all the tongues fit tight in the grooves and doesn’t slip...even if you shake the board while in the groove.


How to and what tools do I use to cable between 3 floors at my house.

As an update I wanted to let everyone know that I got the super long drill bit rods and extensions and made all of the ports myself.  I like hard wire to my stationary devices (tvs, media devices, and pcs) and I also like hard wiring WAPs so that I always have the best wifi coverage.

I ended up dropping almost 2k of car 6 in my house and 1200 feet of CCTV camera cable.

Enjoyed learning and thanks everyone for your help.


Replacing 2 old light switches - what kind of switches do I need?

You have 2 each single pole switches the black wire that connects to both switches is the hot wire (turn the breaker off before replacing) any standard single pole switch will work, you can get simple toggles like you have or the fancier decora but a new cover plate will be needed with the decora (a double gang 2 device cover plate)

Each switch has 2 screws for the conductors change them out so they match the existing red on one side black on the other. If your new switches have both terminals on one side it’s ok put the blacks on the top and reds on the bottom you may need a longer jumper for the black but that’s all,

Newer switches will have a green ground screw on the yoke or metal strap, you don’t have a ground wire so that won’t be used, the metal screws to the box will ground the switch if the box is grounded through conduit or if no ground it will be the same as most homes pre ~1960. After installing the new switches turn the breaker on and see that you did it.

I would use wire nuts on the splices that’s are there but if you find them wrapped and soldered tape may be easier.

On metal boxes I like to cover the terminals with a wrap or 2 of tape around the body of the switch, this keeps the heads from touching if something loosens up. Tape is not required and not all electricians do this but on metal boxes with minimal clearance I think it is a good idea.


That is not the "door frame" but rather door trim and specifically it is crown molding. It will be nailed or screwed. Get up on a ladder and examine it from the top. Take pictures of what you see.

You will probably have to remove this element of the trim and reinstall it, but don't be in a hurry to tackle this. You could cause a lot of damage if you don't do it properly. Do it properly and you may not even have much (or any) touch up painting. Do it wrong, and you will make a mess that will require a professional to restore and will cost a pretty penny.

Honestly, a competent trim carpenter should be brought in to fix this. It appears another element has been pulled from the wall, and there is a trim piece missing, or paint missing, from the end of the horizontal trim above the door. It looks like the door trim was not complete. Is this a new house?


How to run HVAC supply /return & plumbing + keep out of the way

You don't mention which direction the floor trusses lay, but assuming they  run the narrow direction above they it will be a little challenging but hardly unusual. The best bet is to get your HVAC contractor and truss designer together to spec out openings in the trusses for at least the main supply and return trunks.  The truss designer is the expert, but I would expect the supply and returns to be separated by a few feet to avoid a large opening and a weak spot in the trusses.  The HVAC designer might prefer the trunks and opening be centered over the furnace, to make connecting the furnace easier and to avoid the plumbing under the main floor bathroom.  It means long runs to the foyer side of the house, but those are between trusses.

If you are seeking efficiency consider talking to a energy rater, specialist or Passiv house/efficient builder.   You have a nice small, simple structure.  With a modern tight (beyond code minimum) envelope and enough insulation you may be able to heat and cool with a few mini-split heat pump units instead of forced air.  The savings on ductwork alone will pay for a lot of energy improvements, and you'll save money and energy for the life of the home. There are plenty of resources, Greenbuildingadvisor.com, Building Science Corporation and the Energy Vanguard blog are some of my favorites.


How do I stain/paint Ikea birch Wardrobe pieces ebony?

If you're feeling adventurous you could try spraying on a tinted top coat, that way you could achieve the ebony(ish) color and preserve the grain pattern. Its a tricky technique and it must be sprayed but it can be done.

There are a few variations but in general you add 10-20% dye stain to a finish like urethane or lacquer and spray on enough coats to get the color saturation you're after. Prep the surface as described by Steven and then apply an un-tinted clear sealer coat (my personal preference is Zinser's shellac based sealer). Sand with 280 and then add two coats of your tinted top coat, spraying in different directions (left to right then up to down). If it requires more coats, sand with 320-400 and continue on, sanding every few coats. If you have to let it sit for an extended period between coats (more than a day) be sure to sand to promote adhesion.


Why do radiators need bleeding? Where does the air come from?

Air is dissolved in water, that's how fish and many other types of marine life live underwater. As water is heated it releases some of that air. (thanks for the advice, Ed)


My shower doesn't turn on when I turn the diverter

It sounds like there is a problem with the diverter valve. When you turn on the hot and/or cold water valves they flow through the diverter valve on the way to the tub spout. When you turn the diverter valve, it redirects the flow up the pipe to the shower head.

When a diverter valve malfunctions, initial symptoms usually include partial diversion, where some water comes out of the tub spout and some comes out of the shower head, it is unusual for there to suddenly be "no water out of the shower head" like you describe.

Special tools are usually required, like a shower valve socket tool which reaches deep into the wall to facilitate removal. If you want to DIY you need to give more info and post pics. If you are not ambitious, call a plumber.


What paint to use to fill engraved letters on aluminium plate?

For best results you need a etching type paint for aluminum or a Zink oxide primer then any paint. Aluminum oxidizes with air so it needs a primer or a paint designed for aluminum that actually etches so it bonds with the metal. Annodizing is used to protect the surface it is a plating type of solution in a bath so it is a bit different (and the surface is usually harder than aluminum.


Will the water be able to drain out of a blocked toilet?

Water usually seeps past most blockages, but not always.

You may have to hand bail the bowl down 1/3 or 1/2.  THEN employ a plunger.  The older cup plungers worked best with a strong UP pull (hence the bowl draining).

If its a newer, smaller tank, an older cup plunger may not make a tight fit:

This style may work better and will both push and pull against the blockage:


How to prepare driveway for a pour in a narrow space?

I would use wire mesh on the driveway.  The truck will be able to run over it no problem and then you pull it up before finishing.


I have a leaking drain in my kitchen sink

Curious that they are coming loose, but pipe dope would insure a good seal and may gum up the threads enough to keep it from working loose again. I typically use pipe dope in the seal area, some always gets on the threads, it is non hardening, so it can still be disassembled when needed.


There are a number of possible solutions including replacing the switch loop and smart switches that use ground (allowed if designed and tested to do so). But I'll suggest another solution:
Two Smart Switches
Put the main smart switch - which would actually have the WiFi transceiver, etc. - in Junction Box 2. There is constant power there, so any smart switch will work just fine. Wire it up to incoming power and the light fixture.
Install a smart remote to replace the existing switch. Depending on how it works, it may be:

Battery power - Cap the wires on both ends.
Constant power - Change the switch loop in Junction Box 2 to have constant power instead of connecting to the light fixture. The remote will use this to get power and (depending on design) to communicate with the main smart switch. But it won't actually switch the fixture - the main smart switch will do this.

The only problem with this is if Junction Box 2 is in a really awkward place. If it is hidden behind furniture then it doesn't matter. If it is near other switches then it will look just fine. The only problem is if it is in a weird place where a blank cover plate blends in with the surroundings but an actual switch would look out of place.


How do you remove/replace a plumbing fitting that is threaded on both sides when they can’t rotate?

You provide a union, or use fittings that can act as a union.
I'm not sure about those "press fittings", I've never used them, but PEX crimp fittings will turn without leaking after crimping, so they "act  as a union"- but the default answer for threaded fittings in general is a union, which is specifically designed to be loosened without anything (other than the union nut) needing to turn, so that you can disassemble things that do need to turn next to them.
Flanges are another option - common on heating system circulator pumps, rare in normal household water plumbing.
Third option with copper is to use a solder joint that can be removed non-destructively. I believe (but also don't use them myself) that SharkBites will both rotate, and can also be non-destructively disassembled.


Measuring frequency of a fluorescent light source?

I personally have done this with a Greenlee clamp meter, a volt-meter with a Hz setting. I connected the meter to the terminals at the non-shunted end. Only do this with a Cat II or higher rated meter and only after the light has lit. Otherwise the meter will be subjected to the ignition voltage of near 1kV.

I rather liked the high-frequency ballasts that I installed. Went from 60Hz to 48kHz. These were Philips high frequency electronic ballasts.

I got T12 because I didn't want to replace the bulbs. I really should have at the time got T8 ballasts and replaced the bulbs.

I would not have traded for LED tubes. Most the the LED tubes are poor replacements they tend to be far too blue and also lack diffusers so you end up with point light sources brighter than the sun. Which exceeds the recommended the luminous contrast ratio between light and dark areas in a office work space. The point light sources are so bright that they make the area effectively darker.


Should the interconnect wire for smoke alarms read 120v?

Thank you all for comments. I was able to figure out the problem. Apparently the smoke alarm is polarity sensitive. Because of a wire change in the associated junction box, standard USA black and white was changed to British blue and brown. The brown is supposed to be connected to the black and white to blue, but they were reversed. Correcting this solved the problem. Now when the alarm is in "alarm mode" (test) it sends 18V on the red wire to the other alarms. and NOT have a constant 120V


How can I connect multiple lamps to a single cable?

There's a lot of approaches there. This solution is not the most pretty but is effective. If the only problem is the amount of wires you can set several joints in a row as in picture (sorry about that picture, was the best I could to this quick)

You can also use a screw press line cap

I would recommend to keep that joint inside a electrical joint box. Hope this helps.


electric heater keeps needing to be reset by turning fan on and off atleast every 1-2 days

I have to say it's time for you to get an HVAC Pro, please. There's a fault in the system & your "reset" is just working until the fault trips again. Unless, you're getting a Heat Pump next week pay $100 or $300 to a someone who knows what they're doing. Then, you can take years to decide on replacing the system. You resets could very well be pushing something that needed adjustment to the point of needing replacement. Spend a few bucks every 5-years on any type of system for continuous comfort & enjoyment.


why would I have water leaking on the bathroom floor when someone takes a bath but not a shower

Most likely the tub has a crack somewhere high and when you take a bath water reaches the crack but when you take a shower it doesn't since the tub doesn't fill up. If it's not a crack it's something related to the level of water in the tub. Could be the overflow drain.


Capped Water Heater Pressure Relief Extension Pipe

The temperature and pressure relief valve, and any piping it is connected to (copper or CPVC only, at least 3/4" ID), should never be blocked, capped, or obstructed. You should remove that cap because, as you correctly surmised, it is a danger if the T&P valve were to open. A simple tubing cutter like the one shown below will work just fine to cut that cap off.

A note on your install, or at least the install depicted in the picture - the T&P discharge pipe should not terminate inside the drain pan. It should terminate no more than 6" above a properly-sized floor drain, or outside (unless freezing is a concern, then you should drain it inside).

Your water heater manual specifies all of these instructions as well.


I would start troubleshooting by disconnecting the Load side of the GFCI, this will tell you if the problem is upstream or downstream from the receptacle.

Turn off the breaker supplying the GFCI.
Disconnect the wires on the
Load side of the GFCI.
Turn the breaker back on.
Press the reset
button on the GFCI.

If the GFCI resets with nothing connected to the load terminals, you'll want to look for a short/problem in the lines and devices supplied by the GFCI. If the GFCI does not reset with nothing connected to the load terminals, you'll have to trace the line back to the breaker looking for shorts/problems along the way.


Does open stairs between basement and main living cost extra electricity bill?

It depends if your "heating bill" already includes heating the basement.  If you have forced air heating or cooling with the basement on the same zone as the living area, it should make no difference because the air is already circulating and mixing.
If you heat your basement and it's on a separate zone, your bill might go up as the zones will not work as efficiently.  If you do not currently heat your basement, your bill for the upstairs might go up. Or, it might go down if your basement is naturally warm (say, that's where the furnace is) and the new arrangement allows warm air to rise upstairs more efficiently.
You didn't ask about cooling but if you have cooling upstairs but not downstairs and your basement is not naturally cool in summer, your cooling bill will go up, possibly a lot as the cool air generated for upstairs will have to fill the basement before it can begin cooling the living area.


Where could water be coming from inside the joint between bathtub and wall tiles?

I'm afraid your shower plumbing is leaking again. Not as badly as before, but leaking none the less. From the looks of things, water getting past the tiles from showering wouldn't amount to much, and would have certainly diminished by now due to lack of use. Continued flow indicates a water source that is not dependent on showering activity.

The reason you are not seeing water on the kitchen side is because the leak is fairly small and the water found somewhere to go that has enough flow capacity such that the water does not overflow across the wall baseplate or subfloor into the kitchen side.

Bear in mind this is just my best guess. Water leaks can be difficult to trace to the source. No matter what, something is not right and needs to be corrected. Even if the source is something else, you need to get into the wall to investigate. Presumably this is easiest from the kitchen side. Would this be how the plumbing was accessed to repair the previous leak?


Should my fan have been installed off center?

Do you have it in the contract that the fan in centered?  or a drawing?   You as the homeowner and the payer of the bill have the right to have the job done to your specification.  Get them to come back and put the fan on center.  Would you be alright if the fan was off center in that panel in order to center it in the space?  That way they wouldn't have to pull and re hang the whole ceiling.
Good Luck!


Why would a plastic rod be inserted into ground?

Depends on how one defines "good reason"... Anyway, it's definitely a Lego axle. For comparison here's a photo of a similar part from BrickLink. I can't think of any good reason to leave the part there, but I can think of good reasons to remove it.


Go into the attic next time it rains. Look around for a leak above the places it leaks in the house. Additionally, sometimes leaks will "travel down" a rafter a bit before dripping down, so check your raters for water trails, and follow them!


How do I remove dried paint from ceramic tiles and the bathtub?

A straight razor blade shouldn't cause any trouble on your ceramic tile (assuming it has a smooth finish) or an enameled tub, but a fiberglass tub you're right to worry about.

Depending on the number of stains you're trying to remove you may find that heating the surface a bit by filling the tub with hot water then draining again will weaken their hold on the tub enough that you may be able to remove them with gentle scraping with a putty knife (being careful not to dig into the tub's surface).


How should I clean remnants of a melted dish from the heating element of a dishwasher?

It's probably fine to just leave it as-is, but I'd start with a non-metallic scrub sponge, and if that doesn't work I'd move to a utility blade at a very shallow angle. It's unlikely that you'll damage the finish if you're gentle. Get the bulk of what's left off and be happy.


using cental ac circuit in winter for regular outlets

What you could do is install a small sub panel at the end of the wires. Install an additional 240 volt breaker, same amperage as the breaker feeding the AC unit and a 120 volt, 15 or 20 amp breaker for the outlets. This requires that you have 4 wires feeding it, two hots, a neutral and a protective earth. If you only gave three wires (no neutral) you’ll need two 240 volt breakers and a step-down transformer to get the 120 volts.


Why we cannot accurately answer this question

In order for someone to give you an accurate answer to a question such as yours, we need to know at least three things and maybe a forth.

Length or the run - you have

Run load amperage - you don't have

Type of conductor (copper or aluminum) - we are assuming copper

Ambient temperature - we can get back to this one.

Just because the AC you are installing calls for a 20A breaker doesn't mean it needs the entire 20A. 20A breaker is the overcurrent protection device that trips if the circuit is in danger of damage by a short, compressor lock, or some else that goes wrong. It does not indicate the operating amperage of the unit.

Somewhere on the unit there is a nameplate and it should have the RLA (run load amperage) FLA (full load amperage) or just an amperage or maybe even a HP rating.

So what if I can't find the nameplate rating?

Then rather than just taking a WAG (wild ass guess). We take a SWAG (scientific wild ass guess) and run a calc based on the breaker size, but all guarantees go out the window.

This chart is part of a cookbook I gave to the field so they could do a quick reference in the field without have to run a calc.

So you can see that if we have AC running at a 20A breaker and at a 3% voltage drop we can run a feeder 166' with a number #10 copper conductor. Remember the fourth thing you needed? This chart was developed using 75 degrees C. Since you are running conduit in an exposed environment we would need to know the climate you live in, your compass exposure and how you intend to mount your conduit (distance from wall).

So can we run #12? - Don't know not enough information.

Can we run #10? - Probably safe and since it's only 1/2 the allowable distance, SWAG best option.

Can we run #8? - Super safe depending on how much you are willing to spend.

Would you like to get a tighter answer? We will need to get more information.

Good luck


what PEX fittings can I use with a Zurn PEX QickClamp Crimp Rings?

PEX labeled fittings are uniform (essentially). You can use any pex labeled fitting with any pex labeled tubing and any pex labeled crimp ring, provided they are all labeled for the same size tubing and the manufacturers literature shows as astm compliant. For ordinary residential remodeling you don't need to be concerned with pressure ratings of the assembly.
Note that PEX labeled components are for use with potable water only, unless otherwise noted in the manufacturers literature (I don't know of any exceptions but they may be out there).


Just using joint compound to fill the hole... for very small holes

Yes, but there is an (arguably) better, quicker drying alternative called spackle.

  Sticking drywall tape or some other mesh across a hole and then placing joint compound on top of it... for slightly larger holes

Yes, but anything bigger than say, 1 1/2" should have support in the back (there are various easy ways to provide support) and will take several applications due to shrinkage upon drying. Drywall joint compound is not really a "patching" product.

  Screwing the drywall directly to a stud... tape around edges, joint compound on top.

I have found that embedding the tape in joint compound, then applying successive feathered coats of joint compound on top works best.

Your "techniques" 4 & 5 are essentially the same except have the same fatal flaw in that you do not mention screwing or nailing the drywall to supports that span the field; fastening large pieces of drywall at the perimeter is not enough.


what is a reasonable amount of condensate water produced by my pump?

It doesn’t seem possible to me for the furnace to produce excess condensate, it’s just a matter of how much hydrogen is in the fuel and how much fuel is burned.  The water heater at least has a source of water - if there’s a leak in the heat exchanger it could combine with the condensate.  Can you move one of the drain lines out of the pump, and drain it into a bucket to see how much you get from that source?


Rewiring screw less lamp socket, how do I remove wires?

Open one leg of a paper clip and insert it into the little notch next to the wire. The wire should pop right out.


Safe to plug a travel adapter into a power strip?

Is that too many layers of things where it can be a problem safety wise?

The number of "layers" isn't a huge concern, no. As long as each individual component is rated for the voltage and current that will be present, it should be fine.
That said, you might not want to use this approach as a permanent solution. The travel adapters are useful, but in my experience don't always fit perfectly. They can wobble, loosen, etc. At the very least you might wind up with exposed conductors where you don't want them, and I suppose in the worst-case scenario, over time you might get some electrical arcing.
If this is to be a long-term connection, consider replacing the cord on the lamp. Since the lamp itself is already compatible with dual voltage, replacing the cord shouldn't be a huge task. It depends on the design of the lamp, of course, but many lamps can be relatively easily dismantled to gain access to the cord's connections, allowing replacement.
Alternatively, it may be possible to find a power strip that has outlets compatible with both the North American standard and the European standard you're dealing with. For example, I find myself in Singapore from time to time (in-laws) and have purchased power strips there which have outlets that each can accept either the Type C plug that is sometimes used there (though Type G is more common) or the Type A/B plug that is used in North America.
You might be able to find a similar power strip for your purpose (i.e. one where each outlet is compatible with both plug styles), or one that has some plugs of one type and some of another.
Whether this is possible depends on what type of plug exactly you're dealing with. Your post is not specific about that, so I can't provide anything more exact than that.


You need a gearmotor like the Dayton Model 2L003 .45 RPM 1/2800 hp 12VDC


How do you mount fluorescent strip lights on drywall?

The fixture itself is typically used as the junction box.  Just make sure to use a bushing or grommet to protect the cable where it enters the fixture.  These Push in grommets are useful for this.


Finding line and load when retrofitting a GFCI

It matters on a GFCI that the line is from the breaker and the load is the downstream devices. A non contact tester can identify the hot when they are disconnected from the existing outlet make sure to get the hot and neutral from the same incoming cable wired to the line side then the downstream outlets on the load. As you install the outlets make sure to use the labels that say no equipment ground and you will be good to go.


Do not replace a 15A breaker with a 20A breaker. Breakers are sized to protect the weakest part of the system and if that is the wiring then using a larger breaker creates a fire risk.

If the original design was planned that none of the loads would be in use at the same time ( a poor plan imho) then a 15A breaker may have been (incorrectly) deemed sufficient.

If you want to split off the circuits then add 15A breakers but check the supply side wiring to make sure that it is sufficiently sized to handle multiple loads.


4x6 is pretty rigid, and doubling them will help, you will need a deep footing though as there will be high repeated lateral forces on it.  3ft is probably not deep enough.

For this reason most swtngs have A-frame ends instead of plain verticals.


Will wall anchors work when screwed into a stud?

Typically you would remove them, however the anchor you are using is marketed as a "stud solver" meaning that it can be driven into a stud.  I think it is fine to leave them.

If you were using small plastic drywall anchors then I'd definitely remove them and drive a screw directly into the stud.


How do I prevent masking tape on paintwork from pulling off paint?

Are you using plain brown masking tape, or the slightly more expensive painter's tape?  I've had the best luck when I've spent just a little bit more to get better quality tape.  It comes off easier, and leaves behind less residue.

No matter what kind of tape you use, I also agree with Niall C.  Definitely remove the tape as soon as you can after painting.  You don't have to wait until the paint is dry.


Replaced door hinges and now the door won't close - hits the door stop on the hinge side

Resetting the hinges so the door sits a little further from the stop will work.  Sometimes it is easier to remove the door stop and reset it away from the the door a bit, especially if you are refinishing the door jamb anyway


can I connect 120/240 split phase washer If I just have 3 phase 220v?

As threephaseEel is pointing out it depends on the configuration. I would hope it is a Wye all 3 phases have the same voltage to ground but with a delta the the B phase is "wild" or 2x the other 2 that's when things go boom. If your voltage is 220 the line to neutral value should be 127V depending on the washer's wiring this may work if code legal in your area and the washer requires 120V.
Almost all lighting in industrial plants are from Wye connected transformers using 1 leg, for example : 480V 3 phase 1 leg to neutral is 277 or 480/1.732. The neutral connection back at the transformer is connected to the ground.  A more common example in light industrial facilities Wye connected also would be 208/120 3 phase the line to neutral here is only 120V  (208/1.732).
In my early days the low voltage 3 phase was 230V this is a bit high for a single leg to ground on a 120V but it was used back then there was not as much digital electronic gear I believe this is the reason 208 3 phase has become the standard now. Verifying the actual voltage and connection type is very important. With all 3 legs to ground measuring the same value it is a Wye connection. Measuring the legs to ground and 1 leg (usually the B phase) is 2X the voltage is a Delta you cannot use the B leg or "wild" leg, but the A & C leg can be used for 120.


How does one protect electrical in a 2x4 flat studded wall?

I use these behind large-volume boxes in 2x4 walls, to protect the entry point of the box. They should also work for your purpose. They are 5" x 8" self-nailing steel plates:

The example I got was Oatey 33899, but I'm sure there are other manufacturers. They are cheap (less than $1 each).
An example of a supplier, not a specific endorsement: https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=33899


Is it ok to use AAV with sanitary T or other T

You're are quoting chapter 7 with the table you provided but chapter 7 is titled "Connections Between Drainage Piping and Fittings".  I'd think Chapter 9, Vents, would apply here instead.  Chapter 9 doesn't have a list of prohibited fittings that I could find, but does specify size of pipe and distance and placement of the vent connection.  As long as you follow those guidelines I think you are good.  (Also, UPC explicitly allows a Sanitary Tee to be used to connect a vent to a horizontal drain line and most would say is the more stringent standard)


Can 2 10/2 be combined to use as a 10/3?

No you can't combine them. If you (as code requires) finished assembling the conduit before pulling wire into it you should be able to pull the old wire out without digging up the conduit.
But seriously, don't pull cables into conduit. Two cables were quite likely over maximum fill allowance and difficult. Pull individual THWN conductors.


The point of that system was convenience. Plumbing was expensive and time-consuming 100 years ago. Whether it's common depends on the neighborhood and the city, of course.

Whether it's acceptable now depends on your local ordinances. Most "gray water" is required to pass through an approved septic system. I'm surprised that local code doesn't require an update for home sales. Frankly, I wouldn't want food and other waste decaying in my back yard, but that's just me.


Tester indicates hot/ground are reversed after lightning strike

Somewhere in your house wiring a neutral line is disconnected / broken / melted. You will need to open every electrical box and check the connections and splices. If you don't find anything there, do continuity tests between junction boxes. If the fault is between boxes you may need to open the walls up.

Your GFCI outlets are almost certainly dead. Any overcurrent big enough to sever a wire will fry a GFCI. Just replace the lot.

"Hot/Ground Reversed" isn't testable without a third connection. There should be full voltage between hot and ground - if not then you have an open ground. If you put a meter between ground and a known-good ground (like a metal water pipe) and see full voltage then you really do have hot and ground reversed (and a major problem - call an electrician).


How should I connect a steel I beam to the sill plate above it?

Drew is correct. You can remove the bent nails to have your new wall ensure it won't go anywhere. However, you can drill a few small holes, like every 4', out by the outer edge of the flange to pop in some screws or nails...nothing major is needed at all. You just don't want to do anything to the inner "I" that may compromise the engineering. That's actually pretty much impossible to do anyway in a residential situation, unless you wanted to cut or drill big holes in the I-beam.


Upgrade to Smart Switch for a Post Light?

Always use logic to solve electrical problems.  Uninformed trial and error will lead you to many combinations which will "work" but create a lethal condition, either immediately or by breaking the redundancy that keeps electrical safe, so a trivial/routine failure elsewhere that shouldn't create a hazard, now does.  The fact that you are connecting a switch white to a wall black says you should not be making guesses.

With 3 wires on a dual switch, one wire is "common" to both switches (and is typically supply, so it is always-hot).  This is identifyable from the labeling or obvious connecting metal on the old switch.

The other two wires are the switched-hots going to one light or another.

Now, since one of your switches "does nothing", the switched-hot wire associated with that switch can be eliminated.  It should be capped off, on the off-chance it is being backfed somewhere, and so it doesn't accidentally come in contact with a hot screw.

That leaves 2 wires.  One is always-hot, the other is switched-hot to the lamp.

However, the fact that the smart switch has a white pigtail tells us important things.  UL forces them to use certain colors for certain things:

Green, yellow-green or bare for ground
White or gray for neutral

Since the manufacturer could have easily used any wire color, we may infer the green wire MUST be safety ground, and the white wire MUST be neutral.  You must consult the instructions to see if those connections are mandatory.

Just like pesticide use, use of the equipment according to instructions is mandatory by law.

Grounds should be connected first, for perception reasons.  In the event of a wiring issue, this makes you focus on the actual wiring problem, instead of erroneously blaming the ground for failing somehow (not likely).  All grounds go together.

Neutrals connect only to that same circuit's neutral, not any other circuits'. This is usually straightforward if neutral is present.  Neutral will be present here.

Now we have narrowed this down to 2 wires from the wall and 2 wires from the switch.  Since all wires are hot, and the job of a switch is to connect them or not, experimentation is not harmful.  However a simple voltage tester will tell us the hot wire, and the switch's instructions will tell us the hot wire (coughblackcough).


How can I block this venting from rodents?

The soffit vents are an important part of keeping airflow under your roof, lowering your cooling costs in the summer, and preventing ice dams in the winter.

You can screen over the gap, but I would look for a soffit vent strip that you can fit into the gap to give it a nice look and prevent any animals, or even insects, from getting in. My newest ridge vent included a plastic mesh underneath that wouldn't rot but would keep out any leaves and most insects. If you can find something like this for your soffit vent, that would be the best of both worlds: decent appearance without any bugs.


How can I get unswitched power froma switched circuit without running new cable?

Decommission the switches.  You can leave them in place, just adjust the wiring behind them to always be "on" by pulling the wires from the switch and wire nut them together, two wires per switch.
Add switches in the garage near their load after the loads are branched off the feed.
Outlets in attic now always have power.


Installing a Bath Fan Roof Vent Without Attic Access?

You say "no attic". That can mean one of two possibilities:

Bathroom ceiling is very close to the roof

In this case, you should cut the hole in the ceiling for mounting the new fan and simply uses a reasonably long drill bit like this 12" drill bit to drill a pilot hole, then go on the roof to drill a larger hole around it. In this case, there won't be much ductwork needed and the installation should be very easy.

Bathroom ceiling is far from the roof

You could easily have a few feet between ceiling and roof without having a functional (and accessible) attic. In which case you need a really long drill bit like this 72" (6 feet) one to drill a pilot hole, then go on the roof to drill a larger hole around it. The problem then will be the ductwork. With a little luck, and a bit of work, you may be able to get rigid ductwork lined up just right and drop in from the top and get it over the fan location. But in that situation it may be a lot easier to use flexible ductwork.


replacing older switches/outlets. House wired 12/2. Breakers with 2 small sw for 15a service. What switches/outlets to use?

Why would you even want that?  Push-in (we call them "backstab") connections are notoriously unreliable.  They are the direct cause of most "some of the outlets on the circuit went dead" type problems.  Those result in a great deal of wheel-spinning for the novice DIY homeowner, as well as a lengthy "bug hunt", since it's a 50/50 chance whether it failed at the last good outlet, or the first bad one.   It can take a homeowner a day of tail-chasing just to realize that.
The backstabs rated for multiple sizes of wire (#12 and #14) are even more unreliable, which is why UL revoked their listings.  There is no such thing as a receptacle that takes #12 backstabs.  The remaining backstabs on the market are #14 only.
If you're back-wiring because the wires are too short, that's a Code violation. Wires must come out 3" beyond the surface of the wall and be at least 6" of free length inside the box.  You'd need to pull more cable in from inside the wall, if there's slack; otherwise move the box, replace the cable or extend it with an in-wall splice.
Needless to say, wire length is precious, and you should release or simply twist out the wires out of the old backstabs, NOT snip them off.
If you are not comfortable using the side screws, then step up from the 60 cent outlets to the $2.50 outlets, which provide a scheme many call "screw-and-clamp".  This allows the screw to be also used as a clamp mechanism to allow back-wiring up to 2 wires under each screw.  GFCI receps also provide this.


How do I seal my baseboards from drafts?

Wait a minute...  that may be a very, very bad idea. sorry kacalapy.  All I can see is messy carpet after that try.  If this carpet is laid on concrete, then the tack strip is fastened with masonry nails, and if installed properly is chiseled over the edge.  No way caulking is going to seal the gaps causing the air leaks. If your leaks are that bad, then do the right thing. Take off the baseboards, see if you can access the sills, if not,  pull back the carpet, and caulk the gap between the sill plate and the slab. Reinstall the baseboards, then re-stretch the carpet to the tack strip. It sounds like no sill seal foam or sealant was installed under the sills.  There is really no quick fix to a problem like this.  BTW, foam padding and carpet carry and "R" value of about 3 to 5 max.  Carpet is never even considered as an insulating material.


Wiring multispeed PSC motor from ceiling fan

I came up with a solution so I'm going to to go ahead and post it in case anyone else should happen upon this and find it useful.I added the 1-in, 2-out, 4-position speed switch into the diagram. The switch works by taking one input and routing it thusly:[1:  (off) | 2:A | 3:B | 4:A+B] and in this way controls speed by energizing either one part, 2 parts, or all 3 parts of the run (inner) winding (see diagram to help make sense of this).
I found conflicting information about achieving reverse (some sources said switch the polarity of the run winding, some said the start winding); I went with the start winding (the outer one) and it worked. Lastly, I found the capacitor was to be inserted in the start winding and that was straightforward enough.
With the AC input I made red Hot and blue Neutral; however it doesn't appear to me it would make any difference, other than that one way the reverse switch is up for clockwise rotation and the other it is up for counterclockwise rotation.


Replacing conventional: electric hot water heater with tankless

TLDR: Replace house's electric 100A resistance strip-heat "furnace" AND 40A its air conditioning with a 30A wide-range heat pump that does not require emergency heat. Enjoy lower electric bills all year.  Install subpanel to allow three 40A breakers to be in the same panel.
An on-demand is a great idea.
And 27 kw is serious enough that your project isn't likely to end in frustration with tepid water, as will happen when they are carelessly undersized.   Now keep in mind a few design aspects.
Flow is everything -- when you max out flow capacity, temperature will drop, and the cure is to reduce flow.   You can do a lot of good right up front by carefully sizing your loads, e.g. a "low flow" shower head.
That long slug of cold water sitting in the hot water piping is still going to be a problem.  All that water must be pushed out of the pipe by hot water: that is the delay you get in the far rooms.  Locating a tankless centrally will do nothing to cure that - it will be just as bad, or worse if you use low-flow strategies e.g. low-flow faucets and shower heads.
One answer to this is distributed, smaller heaters.  At extremes, the British have "electric showers" where the shower has a built-in on-demand heater right at the showerhead - of 8500-9500 watt capacity (40A), good for a little over 1 GPM, but instant hot water - no waiting. I don't know that I'd go that far, but certainly if your house has 2 or 3 "islands" of hot water use far apart, 2 or 3  smaller units may be worth considering (or even 1 per shower-equipped bathroom + 1 for kitchen/laundry).
You won't be able to go much over 27 kw, unless you "go nuclear" with a 400A service upgrade, in which case limit total water heaters to 48 kw.
That panel has some issues.
It is a "Split-bus" aka "Rule of Six" panel.  That means it does not have a main breaker, those 6 large breakers are together the main breaker.  That was a trick done in the 1960s-70s to avoid the then-very-high cost of 100A and 200A breakers.  However it's a safety problem because those breakers together can draw well over panel rating, and nothing protects the panel.  The safety came from the house's original load calculation done at build time, but that totally counts on the load calculation being re-done everytime anything is added to the panel.  And real world, that does not happen.
This is not a Code violation because it was legal at the time it was installed... but it's something to take care of if it aligns with other plans.  Separate from this, you need additional breaker spaces anyway.  So....

You could fit a new 200A panel, make it the main panel, make the split-bus panel a subpanel of it (even supplied via "thru-lugs" removing need for another 200A breaker).

You could replace the meter pan with a 200A "Meter-main" which also includes some spaces for large breakers, which will provide the extra breaker spaces you'll need.

If you are forced to upgrade service to 400A, this will happen as a side-effect. (400A meter-mains provision two 200A breakers, once again because of the high cost of too-large breakers).

That "furnace" is in the way.
You have an all-electric neighborhood.  There are "good" ways and "cheap" ways to provide heating in all-electric neighborhoods.

Worst: electric strip/toaster heating. Cheap to install, murderous on the electric bill.  Only makes sense where a region has a glut of unusable nuclear/hydro baseload and has low power pricing/tariffs to match.
Compromise: Early or cheap electric heat pumps which work great, but the coldest temperatures are out of their working range.  Therefore they need massive amounts of cheap electric strip heating, as "emergency heat".  This emergency heat must be fully provisioned, i.e. calculated as part of the house's load calculation, even though it's rarely used.
Best: Modern high-range heat pumps which work at any plausible temperature (in Texas, at least, yes including your -5F of late).  These only need to be provisioned for their heat-pump draw.

What you have now is toaster heaters, and they take a huge chomp out of your available electrical service, to the point where there's no room for 27 KW of on-demand water heater.  The only way you can have both toasters and on-demand is to upgrade your electrical service to "Class 320"/400A.
Every possible scenario will cost you a moose-load of money. The question is only how:

Stand pat.  Buy a tanked water heater, keep the toasters and old inefficient A/C, and pay outlandish electrical bills (ouch, every month, forever).
Install 400A service (big ouch, once), install the on-demand (yay) and keep the outlandish electrical bills (ouch, every month, forever)
Install an advanced full-range heat pump (ouch), and use its generous 100A provision for the on-demand heater (yay).  Lower electrical bills even in A/C season due to the high SEER number of modern heat pumps... massively lower electric bills in the winter, and no more being afraid of the thermostat.

Choose your poison.


Washing machine installation - unsure about current setup

Those large "nuts" look like caps for 3/4" pipe that should have spigots on them. the two smaller "holes" in the wall appear to be the shut off valves for the pipes. Try removing those caps and experiment so you'll know what's what.


This type of evaporative cooler is incapable of reducing the temperature of an entire room. None of the interventions you list would improve the performance. Adding salt would corrode the device.

This device might provide some benefit if the air output is directed onto a single person.


Water seeps through basement floor at drain exit during heavy rain

1.  Some water might be tolerable in a minimally finished old basement.

In St Louis, a lot of houses would sometimes get some water in the basement.  Some of them a fair bit.  If this is going to destroy the berber rug in your man cave that is one thing.  If it is going to make a small puddle that is another.

If a little water entering the basement of your old house is not going to cause trouble, you could watch for it and mop it up.  You could seal the concrete floor of your basement.  You could set up a dehumidifier over a drain.

2.  You might be able to figure out why the water is coming in.

In the St Louis house there was part of the stone foundation fall that let a trickle of water thru.  I worked and worked on that wall.  It turned out that the reason it was letting water thru is that the gutter above was letting water fall down against the house, which then pooled against the house.  Fix the gutter, no more water thru the wall.

When it is raining hard, go out and walk around (like the manly Midwestern homeowner you are) and see how the drainage is.  Is it pouring past a loose gutter?  Have misguided yard rehab efforts caused a change in drainage?  If you can see where water is getting up against the house, that might be where the water is tracking down, under, and then up thru the weak point by the pipe.  I actually figured out about the St Louis house gutter because of a spot by the house that was all sandy with no vegetation.  It had been scoured clean by the water coming past the gutter during hard rain.  I was suspicious and then confirmed it with a walk in the rain.

I like the pipe photo and pipe stories, by the way.  Old houses are cool.


What does this concrete pool surface look like?

I don't see any white in the pic, just the gloss gray surface surrounded by the etched surface.

The pool surface looks like it was etch with muriatic acid (as you already mentioned) in order to prep the surface for new plaster. This is what I understand that is done to remove loose scale on pool surfaces. It needs to be flushed thoroughly to cancel the etching.

Plaster can be colored as with any masonry cement or product.

The gunite or shotcrete base (concrete) will be under it about a 1/2" to 3/4" under it depending on how much the acid took off. I would be surprised to see that is yellow. It should be at least a light gray.

EDIT/ADDITION 6/6/14

The added picture helps me a bit, it confirms what I know what should be in place, regardless of the colors that present themselves. On my end I see gray plaster, if it is white, it really does not matter, it is a matter of esthetics. Bottom line it is plaster. The added picture also shows the concrete base, whether it be yellow in color, or not. Again I do not see the yellow if that is what you are referring to, but I do see the concrete base. The texture (albeit the picture could be a little more clear) and color on my ends says it is concrete base, which is usually applied with either of 2 methods which are sprayed in place. Gunite is one method, shotcrete is the other, although there are hand applied ways to do this too.

What I did not detail in my first post, was the first picture shows the original surface that was not removed by the acid for some reason. When the plaster is applied it is troweled in place to create a smooth surface. This portion may have been troweled to the point that is became harder than the surrounding plaster, or maybe other conditions created this.


What kind of vent material can be used for gas dryer?

The best choice is metal hard wall duct.

It is smooth inside and does not cause lint to build up.

Lint build up can be a bit of a fire hazard and leads to restriction of air flow that is exhausting moisture. That leads to extended drying times.

If you must use flex get the semi rigid type and be careful not to crush the shape when making turns.


Can I run my hydronic circulator off an appliance cord in order to use it to purge air?

For those who are interested in doing this:, I simplified the wiring diagram as illustrated below.

I cut the 120v lead to the circulator relay and wired it to a terminal block.  From that terminal block, leads go to to one pole of a 3-way switch and to the relay. Likewise, the other side of the relay was cut and now goes to the other pole of the switch.  The center pole of the switch goes to the circulator motor.   This allows me to run the circulator without running the furnace.  Total cost was less than $10.


Replaced motion sensor light switch; extra red wire in wall

Yes you are fine the extra wire is so you can install the switch in a 3-way switch set up. Where you would have two switches controlling the same light in different locations like a hallway.


You shouldn't have any problems using MDF.

A lot of modern cabinets are made out of MDF these days as it's a cheap material to use. It comes in a variety of thicknesses so you'll be able to get one that meets your requirements.

You need to wear a mask when cutting and sanding it as the dust is not very nice.

It takes paint well and you should have no problem gluing strips to the face to give it some depth and character.


What glass and materials are needed to install a glass shower screen against a sloped wall and where can I get them?

Glass in a shower enclosure must be tempered to be safe. Tempered (or toughened) glass is much harder to break than conventional glass and, if broken, crumbles into pieces that are not very sharp.

Because it is so hard, tempered glass is cut to size before it is tempered (hardened). This is almost always done by a specialty glass shop.  Usually they will either take your measurements or come and measure themselves, and then create the sized tempered piece.

There are also various plastics that are used in shower enclosures that are also less prone to breaking than ordinary glass. Some of these may be able to be cut by the DIYer.

In either case, you need to be sure there is a good, waterproof seal between the panel and the wall and tub.


Water heater on concrete--should I build a platform? How much heat loss in winter?

Probably won't make any noticeable difference.

Normally the bottom of the water tank portion is insulated if electric, and not remotely in contact with the floor if fuel-fired (there's a burner between the bottom of the tank and the floor, and a substantial amount of space taken up by the burner assembly.) I'd save the idea until you were replacing the water heater, if you want to do it.

More likely that your inlet water temperature is lower, as well as heat loss from pipes being higher. While deep well water is fairly invariant, city and other shallow-piped water systems do vary quite a bit seasonally.


replacing toggle switch on furnace red-green with thermostat

The toggle is your fan override, a function today's thermostats have built-in

Originally, gas furnaces didn't have fans, as they relied on convection and gravity to circulate heat through massive ducts, and as a result only required a two-wire control scheme: "should I heat the house or not?"  When air-circulating central fans were added to the picture in order to tame duct sizes, in order to maintain backwards compatibility with two-wire thermostats, gas furnaces controlled the blower themselves using a thermal switch in the plenum (a "fan limit" control).  Newer furnaces still needed to provide a way for the thermostat to turn the blower on themselves without calling for heat, and provided a G (green) terminal for that purpose.

What happened is the last furnace installer put in a newer furnace, but didn't change out the old thermostat or wiring.  Yet, they still wanted you to be able to to turn the furnace fan on to circulate air through your house, so they put a toggle switch on the side of your furnace, connected between R and G, so you could manually do that.

However, since you're finally putting a new thermostat in, and running new thermostat cable, you can get rid of this switch, as your new thermostat will provide a way to turn the fan on manually that you can use instead.  By the way, when you're buying thermostat cable, buy the fattest thermostat cable you can; having spare wires in the wall is a huge boon for when the next HVAC upgrade happens to your house.


how long can i expect tile paint to last on a bath and vanity

The longevity of any paint job depends on so many factors; it is my opinion is that this question is too broad (see the How To Ask page for details).

That being said, you will get the longest life if you:

properly prepare the surfaces to be painted; that means thoroughly sanding all surfaces and perhaps acid-etching the "bath" (if by the term "bath" you mean a porcelain coated bathing tub) if recommended by the coating manufacturer. Note- this is the most important consideration, hence is listed first
apply the paint exactly as directed
use the best quality applicators
use the highest quality paint product

The conditions the coating will be subjected to will also determine longevity, such as moisture, light, cleaning methods, human contact, etc.


There appears to be no ground - what do I do?

This work is of an age when it should've been built grounded.

This appears to use the conduit wiring method.  And this is metal conduit, probably EMT, so the metal conduit provides the grounding path.  This connection is in fact grounded.

That, by itself, does not bring ground to the device.  However, since this is a switch, it is automatically grounded via the metal mounting screws.

That is not allowed for receptacles (sockets). For that, you need to run a wire from the metal box.  The best way is to find a hole in the back of the box which is tapped #10-32, and is made for a ground wire.  They make special green #10-32 ground screws with optional pigtails, though any 10-32 screw will do.  Don't use a sheetmetal screw unless it's tapped 10-32.


How to patch small anchor holes in plaster wall and potentially reinstall anchors?

Since this is just a towel rack, not a catwalk in a power plant or something like that, I see no harm in tinkering a bit.

Very easy fix, use small zinc auger type anchors, they make a bigger hole in the drywall for a smaller screw, so these should work in the existing holes:

You want the zinc ones since you might want to unscrew this at some time.


For a generator of that size, the primary connection would not be through those convenience outlets, but rather directly to lugs sized for the cables required. If this wasn't the primary use of the generator, and you wanted an easily detachable connection, and 50 amps was sufficient, then you could use the 4-conductor receptacle with a cable.

Your model sounds like the G50. See page 34 of that manual:

  3.13
  Connection Lugs

  See Graphic: wc_gr002611

  The customer connection lugs (r) are located on left at the bottom of the panel behind a hinged door. The lugs provide connection points for attachment of outside loads.
  A large label like the one shown in section Terminal Connections is attached to the inside of the terminal door. It shows the correct terminal connections for selected voltages.
  Connections to the lugs should be made by running the power cables up under the lug door in the bottom of the panel and into the lug. Use a 3/8 in. Allen wrench to tighten cable connections in place.


Wiring additional light to a 3-way switch (switch > light / switch > light)

Not without re-running the cable between the switches

Right now, there's no switched hot at the first switch, just a hot, a neutral, and two travelers.  You'd need to replace the existing cable between the switches with a 12/4 to get a switched hot to the first switch from the second.   At that point, you might as well instead run a cable to the 2nd switch box, or to the light box for that matter.


How should I connect electrical wires to a cooktop (platetop)?

THIS IS NOT A JOKE- THIS APPLIANCE NEEDS TO BE INSTALLED PROPERLY

This is how it should be wired using 220-240volt

BUT

There are some things to consider first!

The wires you are using to connect to .. are they the provided wires? there should have been a solid copper U bridge to connect L1/L2 to each other too!? Where is it?

If that is not the original cable you must consider using 2.5mm solid core cable

But also the wire that is in the plug should be the same/similar type! and it should be DEDICATED ONLY
meaning no other plugs on that line

Before the stove you need an isolation switch (any electrician that says this is not needed is a bad electrician!)

And MOST IMPORTANT

A 8AMP (MAX 1700WATT) on 2.5MM Solid Core Dedicated Line!!!

Be warned if you do not meet these requirements you are putting your self at a electrical fire risk - and this is for ALL 220VOLT Installation anywhere in the world. If you have ome insurance and it burns down and they find that your new stove did not meet these electrical rules.. sorry - insurance void!!  Even after installation you need a NEW electrical test certificate to certify there are no GROUND leaks! or micro shorts!


My personal suggestion is self adhesive fiberglass drywall tape, and lightweight joint compound. The tape can be laid on very thin, but provides some support and structure to the whole area. It can even be ordered in relatively wide sizes that almost seem designed for this kind of patch.

The lightweight joint compound comes (nearly) ready to use and can be troweled very thin and even. I suggest several thin light coats, with plenty of drying time between to avoid cracking from shrinking. Sand flush, then seal/prime the whole ceiling and paint to your desired color.


HVAC supply and return preferred locations

Home heating and a/c duct systems have changed over the years. The best systems and the most versatile were installed with both high and low returns and supplies. For heating the low registers were used to supply the heat at the floor and the low returns were to take the cold air off the floor. In summer the high supply and returns were used for the same reason, take the hot air off the ceiling and supply the cold air from above. Today it too expensive to install duct systems this way. Today the installation practice is to install high return grills and low or high supply registers. I prefer low supply registers and both high and low return grills; use high returns in the summer and low returns in the winter. Ask an old timer how to do this.


Are these holes in my garage's wall indicative of flushing out carpenter ants?

That is termite damage. I had one termite attack where they combined with ants ; I did not immediately get rid of the ants because I understood they would not coexist with termites.  That is pretty extensive damage, I would replace all wood with damage. Apparently a  repair was made by squirting in expanding urethane foam ( such as "Great Stuff"). I have had 2 termite attacks and a few cases of dry rot and recognize the difference. And carpenter ants chewed some of the Styrofoam out of my insulated garage door ; the wonders of Texas.


Very often the change of seasons and corresponding temperature and humidity changes result in the house and woodworking moving around.

The usual fix is to inspect the door frame and door hinges to see of they are secure and installed correctly. If all appears to be in order then the next step is to study the door itself and see just where the binding is and how much. Mark the binding locations with some of the colorful type of painters tape and then demount the door via the hinge pin removal.

The binding areas are normally handled by taking material off the door via sanding, planing or even trimming with a saw. (Note that this applies for wood material type doors - not steel jacketed doors).

Next is to re-hang the door in the frame and test for fit. Sometimes it will be necessary to make several iterations of trimming the door to get the correct fit. The final fitting should be followed up with a fine sanding to get a finish surface.

The final step is to re-finish the parts of the door where the trimming occurred. This may be a primer/paint job or possibly a stain/finish job depending on how the original finish was applied.


How do I recognize which socket cover (fused or 3-pin) connects to which outlet?

It's a switched outlet to connect to something else (a washer, dryer, ceiling fan etc) so there should be another set of wires going from this switch to whatever it's supplying.

The incoming 'hot' cable can be the same one that goes to the socket, it's a 13A switch so can be on a regular ring main


It's an open-and-shut case of a ground fault

All your testing (two GFCIs, isolating appliance from earth etc.) confirms the appliance has a ground fault.

Your tester doesn't detect it because your tester is not a megaohmmeter.  The particular failure mode you have here is insulation breakdown; it's fine at the 3 volt meter test voltage, not so good at 120/230V line voltage and will certainly fail at the megaohmmeter's 200V/500V test voltage.

Just dismantle the light and clean everything and look for any obvious problems.


It sounds like you are right at the current limit for your power strips and your remote control switches. If you look at the plugs of the lights, you should see a rating that says how many Amps it uses. Add all of those up, and make sure you're not exceeding 80% of the rating on your power strip or your remote control switch. So if your power strip says 15 Amps, then make sure your lights don't add up to more than 12 Amps.


How do I hard wire a T8 fluorescent light fixture with grounded plug to a motion sensor?

Your light fixture has hot, neutral, and ground.

The diagram actually shows the switched hot and neutral connecting to the light - ground is or should be obvious, it's not shown probably to reduce clutter.

As shown on the diagram, you connect the neutral from the wires supplying the location of the sensor to the fixture wire. It does not connect to the sensor at all. As not shown, you do the same thing with the ground. As shown, you connect the switched hot to the fixture.


How do I connect this saw's motor to 220 volts?

Looking at the first photo, under the label "208-240" the "white line" is the in coming white wire from the power. It shows that it is connected to the white wire from the motor. The "blue insulate" means the blue wire is not being used and should be capped and taped. Although it doesn't designate how the "black" wire from the power is connected I would say that since it is a capacitor run-type motor that the black is wired to the capacitor. If not it would go to the "reset" switch. Look to see how the black wire  is connected presently and keep it as is.


Attaching Air Compressor To Junction Box

I'm not sure for a specfically "2-gang" box. These are made for 4" and 4-11/16 and octagon boxes:

and there are 1-gang "handy-box" covers with a knock-out as well.

A 4" box will take 2 devices, but some 4" boxes are set up with tabs for the devices, while others are set up with corner screws like this plate uses and need a cover to hold devices in place.


What are the green spots on our kitchen walls

Looks like copper corrosion products - so if there is a bit of copper embedded inthe wall, this sort of staining to the surface is quite plausible. WHY there's copper there to cause staining, I can't tell you.


Can water based polyurethane be used to prevent knots in pine wood from bleeding through white paint?

Shellac is usually applied to knots prior to top coating. I've not heard of a absolutely foolproof method of sealing knots so that will stop potential bleeding from occurring. If you do decide to paint, then you have more options for addressing bleed through if it occurs.

I think it's also worth pointing out that if you decide to paint over the finished wood, you will need to prep. That means sanding in preparation for painting. That's difficult work when your surface is overhead on a ceiling. My advice would be to finish a small section and temporarily mounting it on to the ceiling so you can decide whether or not you like the look before you decide on just finishing or painting the wood.


What could one spray inside solid core door to protect wood and create a tunnel?

I think if you use a couple coats of good primer and a finish coat of enamel paint, you should be fine. Just be sure to work it into the wood well. Two thin coats are always better than one thick coat.  The cat door is gonna protect the cut edges quite a bit as well. Put a small bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the cat door bezel before you install it on the outside surface to seal that possible entry point from rain water.


Should I hire an architect to design my house?

Yes. And in many districts, it is a requirement to have an architect design while an engineer examines and seals the plans.


should i remove hinges from door and door frame before painting

To be honest I would if it's easy to remove them, but you can still do it hinges are still on. My father and I removed our hinges ,but they were easy to remove. You don't have to.


Can I serve mwbc 110v from 220v circuit?

Perhaps. Firstly, without a time machine you have a 240V 20A receptacle and want to add 120V 20A receptacles.

You may need to replace the breaker with a dual-pole GFCI breaker as it's quite likely that the 120V circuits will need GFCI protection depending where they are and what version of code is adopted in your area at the time you do the work.

Other than that, yes, this is fine.


Is the advice "don't operate light switches barefoot" outdated?

I don't think the advice was particularly salient in the 80's or even decades before. I think it was based on some irrational fear &/or misconception.
Don't use light switches with wet hands - which is why bathrooms have pull-switches. That makes sense, but to extrapolate that to any & all light switches for fear they're badly wired, unearthed & the shoes will stop you becoming the route to earth… sorry, that's irrational fear.
It belongs in the same category as always making sure socket switches are off if nothing is plugged in, which still sees some adherents even in the UK, where you'd need a slim screwdriver to even open the socket gates be able to poke something into one.


Why is my toilet leaking around the base even after a seal replacement?

Before you remove the toilet (again), make sure that the leak is not from somewhere else. On more than one occasion I have been called out for this problem and the complaint was that the toilet-to-floor seal was bad, but when I got there it was from the tank (the tank-to-bowl seal, the fill valve connection, a hairline crack, etc.). Water running in a thin stream down the side of the toilet is very difficult to detect; try putting some food coloring in the tank and, without flushing, see if you have a leak elsewhere.


It depends :)

It really depends on how old the wallpaper is, if there are multiple wallpapers glued over each other and how much glue was used.

If the wallpaper is not too old, and was put on in a proper way, usually, a steamer works very well. It has the advantage that it loosens the glue without making the wallpaper to fragile to pull it off.

I usually try to stay away from chemicals, because they always have some danger for health associated.


Crooked (Not Parallel with Wall) Electrical Receptacle

I find that i can usually manipulate them into alignment.

The  tabs on the outlet that the screws go through attaching the outlet to the box are made of somewhat malleable  metal.

Turn the breaker off to the circuit so there is not ANY power to the box. You should use a non-contact voltage tester to insure that there is no power in the box to any wires.

Take off the cover plate. I can usually just grab the outlet with my fingers, i reach in as far as i can and try to push the back of the outlet to one side or the other.

In your case you would push the back left side to the right.

Sometimes they are stubborn and do not move easily or i can not get a good finger hold so i carefully use a pair of adjustable pliers or a small pry bar to push the back to the side. ( remember the power should be OFF ) Be careful to not crush/crack the outlet.

It may take little fiddling but you can straighten it out.


The internals are pretty straightforward.  You're just looking for loose wires in connections, loose wires at a tombstone, etc.

While you're in there, size up the wiring.  If there are 2 wires to every end of every lamp, that takes a different ballast than if there is only one.  Ballast swaps aren't too bad and they are also an opportunity to upgrade to T8 lighting.

You could also think about going LED if the fix does not prove to be easy.  Get direct-wire aka ballast-bypass LEDs, don't get plug-n-play/needs-ballast LEDs.


Running too many appliances needing water on a well system and now no water

It is highly possible to run a well down in level to the point where it is effectively dry. Water is not an endless resource.

As you pump water out of the well casing the level in the casing drops. Depending on the depth of your well, the height of the water table, and the capacity of your well you can pump the casing dry.

Then, water refills the well casing over time and now you have water again. If you are in an area that has experienced low rainfall, overpumping from agriculture or other issues your water level couldn't be extremely low already.

Another issue could be a clogged screen on your pump. Only a well service could help you with this.

Try moderating your water usage and see if that helps.

Good luck!


Tub overflow elbow standard screw pattern; 2 or 1 screw?

Get the 2 hole one; it'll work for those, and single screw overflows almost always come with a bridging plate.


How do I remove an unknown stain from my carpet?

If your carpet is a light color then try white vinegar on it first. I use this for pet stains and its light years beyond any product specifically formulated for stains and 1/20th the cost. It kills germs/bacteria/mold. I pour the vinegar straight from the bottle onto the stain, thoroughly soaking the carpet. It will begin to react with the stain and start fizzing. Once the fizzing stops you can soak it up with a paper towel but its best if you use a steam cleaner with just water in the tank to remove as much of the vinegar and the residual odor as possible. It will have a strong odor that will completely dissipate after two days assuming you sucked enough of it up after application.


Are there span tables published for repairing a cut roof joist?

There is no mention where the cut out is but this should take care of it in any respect, as long as the mid span support is a series of posts and not a purlin...
Can you get a 2X6 in there that will give close to a full span? if the material is clean or can be scraped clean, a healthy bead of construction adhesive zig-zagged on the face of the old 2X and screw the 2X6 starting 4 inches from the ends with a pair of screws and 12+/- inches apart in the remainder in pairs also. Use 3 inch drywall screws or 2 3/4 inch SDS screws through the 2X6 into the 2X4. Make sure the screws draw tight the material, pilot if needed with a 3/16" bit.

If you have a mid span support that goes to good bearing through to the foundation, you can use a shorter repair joist, but a single joist that goes over multiple spans is stronger than a single span joist.

FWIW, it looks like a 2X4 will suffice from what I seen the table at page 396 of the 2012 building code (table R802.5.1).


How is heat output controlled in closed-vent gas fireplace inserts?

It appears that the burner length is the primary difference, but that's not to say that there couldn't be other differences in the valving, etc. You'll probably want to contact the manufacturer if a company representative doesn't appear in this conversation.

  A unique 18-inch (10,000 Btu) Millivolt Loft burner provides heat and
  ambience for bedroom fireplaces. Check your local codes for applicable
  restrictions.

  The 24-inch Multi-sided Loft Burner (36,000 Btu) is ideal for
  Peninsula and See-Through fireboxes. ...

http://docs.homeclick.com/PE-Links/Empire%20Comfort%20Systems/Empire%20Comfort%20Systems-VFRL-18-10-specs.pdf


A hanging lamp makes buzzing sound when on

Does this lamp have a florescent ballast inside?  This type of lighting will make that hum you are describing.  If so, you can replace the ballast.


How can I meter power usage by an on-demand electric hot water heater?

I went with a 120/240 Volt Pass-Through kWh Meter, 3-wire (2 hots, 1 neutral), 100A, 60Hz, EKM-25IDS.

The meter is hard-wired in front of the hot water heater and provides a digital kWh readout for the hot water heater's power usage.


2 x 6 joist hangers are rated for a minimum of 400 lbs load at a 45 deg. angle, slightly more at a shallower angle. So two joists should be good for 800 lbs total.
Or if you are concerned, attach a 1" steel pipe across multiple rafters, then attach the swing to the pipe.


how can I remove broken spigot from garden hose end?

TRY a POTATO !
just cut a piece of potato and "screw" the potato into the female end-- it just might grab enough for you to unscrew the broke male threads --   it is safe on your hands and cheap to try - won't damage anything--  I have used this to get out broken light bulb parts in a socket too! GRANDPA taught me this decades ago!


Take the belt off and see what it does.

IMPE, this is usually failed drum rollers that have too much resistance to allow the motor to start. You might be able to get a sense for that by simply trying to rotate the drum (without trying to turn the motor on.) If the motor starts with the belt off, excess mechanical resistance is the problem, not something electrical.

Last time it happened to me I did a "kit" rebuild - kit was $25, rollers alone were $19 - kit included both rollers, the belt and the tension roller. I tucked the old, worn but intact belt in the dryer in case of future need for it (and wrote myself or whoever sees it a note on the inside of the top of the dryer.)


How can I determine if my outlets can easily be grounded?

Depending on how old the building is, and when the wiring was done. You might be hosed, or really lucky.  To find out which, you'll have to open up the box.

Start by turning off the breaker to the receptacle in question, and verify power is off with either a voltage tester or a non-contact type tester.  Remove the receptacle cover, and undo the screws holding the receptacle in the box. Pull the receptacle out as far as you can, without damaging or disconnecting the wires from the receptacle.  If there is a bare copper wire hanging around inside the box, you just hit the jackpot!  Go out and buy a new receptacle (with ground), and hook it up.

If there is no ground wire in the box, You're basically done.  There was a time when you could use the metal shielding of Type AC cable as a ground (if the building was wired with shielded cable), but I believe this is no longer acceptable in the eyes of the NEC.

Depending on the code adopted in your area, you may be able to replace the 2-prong outlets with GFCI receptacles.  If you do this, you'll have to make sure you label the receptacles "No Equipment Ground" (a sticker should be included with the receptacle).

The best option at this point would be to call in an electrician, and have the circuits upgraded, or a new grounded circuit installed.


No, no, no!  You have wired 1 cable ground to each device.   You need to spiderweb the grounds! All grounds need to go to all other grounds.   They should all be joined in a big red, tan or green wire nut.

If the box is metal, you need to tie to the metal box (99% of the time there is a hole threaded for a 10-32 screw, otherwise use a cable clamp or clip).  You won't need grounds to the switches because they will ground  through the normal mounting screws.  (This only works for switches, not receptacles).

If the box is plastic, you need to pigtail a ground to each switch.

Neutrals are not grounds and you do not spiderweb neutrals.  Especially here, you need to keep the neutrals separate.

Why won't it work?  Because that is not a post-2011 switch loop with neutral.   That is a retired 3-way switch run.  I don't know what's at the other end, but most likely it can be arranged to be like a post-2011 switch loop with neutral.  Find it (most likely at another switch box) and change it.

If you wanted to restore 3-way switch functionality also, that possible with smart switches.


Converting light socket to outlet, what do I do with ground?

The proper thing to do here would be to free the wire from that clip and then wire nut that bare copper wire with two additional bare copper wire pigtails. Green wire nut would be ideal. One of the pigtails will go to the green screw on the outlet assembly. The other bare wire pigtail needs to be connected to the box. It is unknown if the clip can be used again so barring any judgement I would look to see if the electrical box has a pre-threaded hole in the back. The threaded hole is intended to accommodate a green box grounding screw. Get one and use it to attach the second bare pigtail to the back of the box. The picture below shows what appears to be the pre-threaded grounding hole in your box.


Can I use a 220V 80W fan with an 220V to 110V 50W adaptor to make it work slower?

There are a few different types of voltage adapters, some of which are probably safe, and others will destroy the fan because the output contains a DC component. Check which type you are using.

Transformer: Transformers produce a pure sine-wave (other than esoteric Sola- type constant voltage transformers) AC output which is unlikely to damage the fan unless the fan stalls and overheats due to lack of air circulation. Since the rating of your adapter is 50 W, it is probably a transformer. Check also that the fan does not draw more than 2 A maximum, or it would exceed the capability of the transformer.
Diode: For resistive devices such as clothes irons, some adapters contain just a silicon diode. The output is pulsating DC, which is likely to destroy the fan or even cause a fire.
Thyristor: Triac and SCR devices do not really reduce voltage but slice the AC waveform into smaller pieces. Some are designed specifically for use with small shaded pole motors, as used in most ceiling fans. A danger with some controls not intended for use with motors is that the "chopped" waveform may not be equally balanced and have a DC component, with possibility of slow overheating, not immediately apparent, so perhaps a greater danger.
Series inductor: It is possible to use a simple inductor or "choke" to slow a fan, which should be safe, but the value of the inductor would depend on the current draw of the fan.


It will often cost less to replace the door and frame as a unit. Custom-fitting a door is a fussy process. A pre-hung door and frame as a pre-matched set is a factory-built item. If you can get over the horror of ripping the frame out, it's generally faster to complete the job, as well.

However, if your doorframe is an architecturally significant old thing, replacing just the door may be the better approach - most new doors & frames are best for replacing cookie-cutter ticky-tacky doors and frames as found on many, but not all houses; they will look just the same, in most cases. [pun intended - RIP, Mr. Seeger]


Can I use a junction box to splice together wires that are on a different circuit?

You can have multiple circuits in the same box so long as you do not overload the volume of the box with devices and wires.

See this answer by @Tester101 that discusses box volume.


What units are the clutch settings on a drill?

The clutch on a drill or a driver is a very imprecise thing. It just has multiple settings (24 in your case) and often a separate "drill" setting which disables the clutch. Manufacturers don't specify actual torque values for the clutch settings. So the bottom line is you have a black box with 24 settings that gradually increase the torque after reaching which the chuck is disconnected from the motor and you hear the repetitive clicking sound and perhaps you have a "drill" setting with which there's no disconnection.


One of B1 or B2 carries live to the light fixture, and the other carries it to another fixture somewhere else.  W3 carries live to the switch, and B3 carries switched live back to the light fixture.  B3 is capped off temporarily because it could carry live, depending on the switch position.

To install your light fixture, you'll need to connect the light's live wire to B3, its neutral to W1 + W2 and ground to the other grounds.  While you're working in there, wrap a piece of black electrical tape around the insulation at the end of W3 to indicate that it's carrying live, and do the same at the switch end too.

This is a circuit diagram, adapted from one I drew for a similar question:

I didn't show the ground wires because they would have made the diagram more cluttered and as long as they're all connected together, you're OK.


Our hot water heater is gas, and it only has low med. and high temperature settings. Which setting is the safest to use for our home?

Start at medium, or at the current setting, if you already have it connected.

Go to the nearest hot water faucet, let the faucet run for 3 or 4 minutes.

Put a thermometer into the stream of water. NOTE, your finger is not a thermometer.

If the temp is higher than 115F, then your heater is set too high.

If the temp is under 100F, it will feel warm at best in the shower, it is too low.

In a perfect world, you have a mixing or tempering valve. This lets you mix some cold water with the water coming out of the heater, allowing you to get 'baby bear' temperature - just right.


Do I need a moisture barrier when insulating a metal roof with compressed Styrofoam?

If by Styrofoam, you mean rigid foam insulation like this or this you do not need to add a vapor barrier as the rigid Styrofoam sealed with chemical sheathing tape like this will do the same job.

The important point is that any an all seams are sealed by the tape to create a water, and air tight seal.


Ground-level electrical wiring to shed outdoors possible?

With rigid or intermediate metal conduit ($$) you can follow code without going very deep - 6" under dirt, 4" under a concrete cover of at least 4" thickness extending at least 6" to either side. Unless you want a concrete path through your garden along the route of the conduit, that's not likely what you want.

Rigid and intermediate metal are tough enough that you won't likely damage them while digging with hand tools.

PVC needs to be 18" under unless concrete protected.

Table 300.5 of the NEC should clarify all that for you.


Safety practices for 5-volt 150-watt power supply for dot-programmable RGB LED light ribbons

Unfortunately, enclosures are tricky when the equipment needs to be ventilated.

The first rule of electrical is that anything that touches mains power must have a proper UL listing, CSA, ETL or equivalent. US-OSHA keeps a list, and everyone else dogpiles on and cites it rather than maintain their own list.  Your tax dollars at work. A RU listing (UL component listing) is not that.  RU component listings shortcut a UL equipment listing because the component is pre-certified.

And CE is definitely not that; it is a junk mark gleefully faked by the Chinese. The rare Chinese maker who is able to stick a UL listing on their item proudly does, with file number, and they don't use CE at all; no need to fake.

I don't know the Canadian code requirement for approved (read: CSA-approved) items, but the NEC section is 110.2.  It's on the first page.

I have excellent 24V GE power supplies for LED lighting that mount in a fluorescent ballast form-factor.   Still need enclosures, but designed to play in a confined space.

The go-to in the "Chinese, but UL listed" department is Meanwell, and their stuff is sold at Mouser, Digi-Key, the usual.  Some of their supplies have the UL or ETL listing instead of the component-level RU mark.

There is no Code legal way to bring hot and neutral to open, uncovered screw terminals on the equipment. That is one of the 100 details that the Chinese fakirs completely ignore in Code. This might be allowed in an RU component.  I suspect on the UL-listed Meanwell supplies, they'll have an IEC inlet or a proper cover for the 120V splice areas.

Another important thing required in mains code is complete separation of mains and low voltage power. Bringing them onto the same terminal block is a nope.