Thanks for your input. No it doesn't leak "yet". I've tried the repair kit which I had to get posted here indirectly as there are restrictions on liquids sent through the post to Greece. It chipped off again and doesn't work on hairline cracks. I do airbnb renting, so not so nice for guests to see it bodged up. I would like to find another but it's about 25 years old, so a bit vintage. I've just made a wooden palette to stand on (suggestion of a friend), so hope guests don't peak underneath.


How can I hide wood stain on painted drywall?

You don't sand painted drywall. Hit up your paint store and ask them what stain-blocking primer they recommend. Apply that per the instructions, blending it out to prevent hard edges, then paint. If the paint on the wall is more than a few months old you may need to paint the entire wall to get good color uniformity.
You might use a soft cloth and a bit of paint thinner to try and gently scrub some of the stain away so it's less likely to bleed through the primer.


Water heater builds up excessive pressure only when reheating the tank. What's going on?

Your expansion tank has likely failed or isn't large enough for your hot water tank. Expansion tanks have a bladder in the middle that ensures it is half full of air and needs to be periodically checked to be sure it's properly pressurized. These bladders eventually fail, allowing water to enter the air side, which eliminates the ability to absorb the expanding water.

Replacing the expansion tank may be a simple process if it's just screwed on. With the water shutoff, you unscrew the existing tank, pressurize a new tank, apply some plumbing dope to the threads, and screw the new tank on.


A header will need to added in that area. Perhaps for the short span, it needs a triple 2X4 on their edge will work for that, 2X6 would be best. This is assuming  2X6 wall. They can be directly above the speaker or even as high as the underside of the top plate if the angled blocking does not complicate anything. Some blocking will need to be added for the joint between the foam board and OSB.


Switching to LEDs: 12v LEDs on existing transformer or remove transformer and use 240v LEDs - Which is better?

I would stay with 12V if possible.

Because LEDs draw very little current, a minimum load requirement may be a factor if there are any electronic parts such as a dimmer or a transformer.

For general residential lighting 12V would be the best choice.  Running at higher voltages for incandescent, halogens and especially for LEDs is unnecessary and probably does more harm than good.  Compare it to using a sledge hammer for hanging a picture.


My water pipes seem to be NPS sizes, can this be right?

It's copper, so it is rigid tube, not pipe, as specified in ASTM B88 (Standard Specification for Seamless Copper Water Tube).  The actual OD is 1/8" larger than the nominal size.  So, your .88 diameter is 3/4" and your .68 diameter is a slightly fat 1/2".


If this is a fairly sudden change or it's very localised then it could indicate a leak or overflowing gutter etc.

If it's always been this way, the problem is more widespread or the change has been very gradual then it's more likely to be damp. Are any areas of the house below ground level? Or has the ground level been built up along that wall? The cure could be as simple as digging some soil away from the walls, to make sure that the existing damp proof course hasn't been bridged. This will stop any more moisture getting in and allow the rooms to dry out.

If none of these simple remedies work, I'd call in at least two professionals to give quotes. If they give wildly different possible causes then get a third. Fixing damp can be expensive and if you get it wrong and it doesn't actually cure the problem.


Roof flashing along the place where the roof joins the side wall is designed to keep water from leaking into the underlying roof and wall. You do not want to be nailing, stapling or drilling holes in the flashing because it invites many leaks to start.

Find another way to run your cables. Inside under the roof, under the eves of the roof overhang etc. This will be a good thing too. The coax cable jackets will be much better off if they can be largely shielded from the sun.


What type of air filters are these? Are they any good?

They look like expanded stainless steel and that would make them completely reusable. I would hose them off and put them back in and save yourself some money. Unless you are sensitive and need a HEPA style filter these should work fine for most dust and hair.


Should I redo my house wrap that is under the sheathing?

I can’t imagine that James Hardie will condone the installation of two exterior house wraps (James Hardie calls it : “Weather Barrier”) sandwiching the existing wall sheathing.
The existing sheathing will have moisture in it and probably large amounts of dryrot.
However, you want to install their product, their way, in order to protect the warranty. That’s why it’s important that you have an on-site inspection performed by James Hardie. Make sure you get his report in writing.
https://www.jameshardiepros.com/products/hardiewrap-weather-barriers
Btw, I would not use “Tyvek” or some random caulk. I would use only James Hardie products installed exactly how they recommended. (This includes NOT caulking above windows. This drives every installer crazy, but is required by James Hardie.)


I would think you would go to an auto parts store and get a filler like Bondo .

Bondo has a pretty high heat rating and is not flammable in your conditions.  You will sand the areas, use mesh for bigger holes and apply.  You can't put this stuff on paint - it won't stick well.  And I would make sure the bonding area is rust free too.  This should be about a 2 hour job.


Can a ½ inch water pipe supply enough pressure for a shower head and body sprayers?

For copper pipe, hot (~50 C) water should only flow at approx 5 ft/second. Flow of less than one or two ft/sec can also be a problem. Based on the diameter of the pipe (1/2 in type L), 0.72 gpm flows at 1.0 ft/second, so this would suggest a maximum of 3.6 gpm for the pipe (assuming 5 ft/second). Also, you must worry about the pressure drop. Use table 6 of The copper Handbook, at 5 gpm, the pressure loss is 0.161 psi/ft. Assuming your supply is 50 psi, and you need 35 psi to be delivered to the shower head, you can have a maximum pipe length of (50-35)/.161=93 ft. Figure 7 shows how fittings should be counted due to their larger pressure drop. A 90 degree fitting counts as one foot. Additionally, water pressure will decrease with elevation by approximately 0.433 psi/foot.

As long as you meet these two restrictions, you're fine. Since you need 4.5 gpm, and your pipe is likely less than 93 feet, things should work fine.


You can seal off a vent anywhere: the basic goal is to have zero air leakage. So to answer your question, yes it's possible to seal a vent below a subfloor.

If you don't seal it up properly though, you'll be blowing conditioned air into the space under your floor, which is a big waste of energy and will do basically nothing.

It's better to cap off closer to the blower unit, mainly to minimize the amount of air leakage along the run. The challenge is of course finding out which runs go where, and ensuring that you aren't blocking off a vent that feeds another area as well. It's pretty common to see 5 or 6" round duct used to feed each individual vent, and larger square duct as the main runs. If you can see the round duct for the room right by the furnace, there's a good chance it's only feeding that vent.

You can get round and square ("blind") end caps of varying sizes:

If you're pulling up the subfloor anyway, I'd take the boot right off and just put a cap on the line (as far back as possible to get to). Seal all seams around the cap (and anywhere else you can see that isn't sealed) with foil tape or mastic.

If you can't remove the boot (the part that comes up through the subfloor), the next best thing would be to seal it by placing a blind end cap over the opening and sealing it up. This would basically be butted up against the new floor. If there is minimal or no air leakage through the boot, it shouldn't really heat up much, but if air is allowed to move through the vent, you'll end up with a warm or cold spot on the floor, which may be weird.


How can I vent a bathtub trap when the drain is routed under the tub?

Why do you think the bathtub is not currently vented?

Not all traps need to be individually vented so you're not always going to see a vent if you don't know what to look for. It's a little hard to tell from your photos, but I think your bathtub is wet vented through the kitchen sink:

Please correct me if I've got the arraignment of your pipes wrong.


Patch hole in cement slab when ground below is excavated

Note the soil on top of the pipes.  You should have this looked at by a good remodeling general contractor or structural engineer. Residential slabs do not generally span those distances even with rebar.

Filling with sand may be the answer but figuring out what’s going on should be the priority


Using a Multiple Load dimmer to it's full rating?

The 1000 watt version of the Lutron dimmer you mentioned in the question is the best solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MASMU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2M1gAbZC0JPCV

You're correct that 600 watts on a 600 watt dimmer never lasts.  My personal theory on that is that in a perfect world input voltage would be the rated 120v.  In the house, in the real world, voltage could be 10% or more lower, which changes every other variable and effectively increases current draw slightly.


How to make the seam of a Quartz counter top disappear as much as possible?

The only way to truly have a seam-free countertop of that shape is to cast it out of concrete. Since you've already chosen quartz, that doesn't seam like an option.

Embrace the seam, don't hide it. It's un-hideable, so anything short of perfection (which is impossible here) will be a disappointment and you will feel bitter about your multi-thousand-dollar expenditure because you didn't get what you wanted. Instead, change your expectations and design the countertop so that the seam is proudly visible and visually attractive. A diagonal seam at the corner could look nice.


Can I make a pre-hung door jamb narrower?

Sure.

Remove the hinges and door slab.
Mark the location of the jamb stops with masking tape on each side, and then remove them by carefully prying them away from the jambs. They're usually nailed or stapled in place.
Disassemble the jamb by carefully tapping apart and removing the nails/staples/screws at the corners.
Run your jamb through a table saw, splitting it underneath the stop location. Run them through again to remove additional material to achieve the jamb depth desired.
Combine the two halves of each jamb component using wood glue and clamps. Allow to dry overnight.
Reassemble the jamb corners using your fastener of choice, then install the stops, hinges, and slab.
Hang the door as usual.

However...

It may be simpler to just fur out the back of your door casing (trim) to accommodate the extra depth. If done well this is nearly invisible, plus you have the option to convert to drywall later without replacing the jamb.

Also...

It would have been prudent for the paneling installer to have furred out the wall framing to achieve the half-inch thickness for just the reason you've encountered. That's water under the bridge, obviously, but it's a thought for next time.


How does a multi-tap motor speed control work?

Comparing those tables: Note that the speed switch in the circuit you show isn't using L.

A: L+2+3
B: L+1+3
C: L+1      (Maybe this is L+1+2 ???)
D: L+1+2+3

0: No connection (or no connection to anything but L)
1: 2+1 (possibly plus a connection to L)
2: 1+2+3 (possibly plus a connection to L)
3: 2+3 (possibly plus a connection to L)

Making them correspond with each other...

C is obviously equivalent to 0.
D is obviously equivalent to 2.

That leaves us with

A: L+2+3
B: L+1+3

1: 2+1 (possibly plus a connection to L)
3: 2+3 (possibly plus a connection to L)

We can make those match if we relabel the connections. If we just swap the labels on your terminals 3 and 2, then

A is equivalent to 3
B is equivalent to 1

If we renumbered them all (your 2 is their 3, your 3 is their 1, your 1 is their 2), then

A is equivalent to 1
B is equivalent to 3

Pick whichever you prefer; one will switch off-high-medium-low-off, and the other will switch off-low-medium-high-off.

As far as theory goes: I'm not sure either, but let's see what I can do with it.

3 (2->3) appears to be "slow" because power flows through the right half of the bottom coil, and then through the side coil, in series. More resistance, less current flow, less power.

1 (2->1) appears to be "fast" because the left side of the bottom coil, and the side coil, are powered in parallel. Both get the full house-current voltage applied across them rather than the reduced amount of power they got in series.

2 (2->1 and 3) is the tricky one. I am far from certain, so DON'T take my word for it. But I think what's happening here is that, since the middle and right sides of the bottom coil (1 and 3) are now connected to each other,  that loop has a current induced in it by the motor's moving magnets, which creates a countering magnetic field, which acts as a magnetic brake to slow the motor... so fast with a bit of braking equals medium. Seems like an odd solution, but if I'm remembering my freshman Physics at all correctly it might actually be a reasonably efficient solution.

You might want to run this by the physics discussion, to get someone with more recent memory of electrodynamics to check and/or correct that last paragraph.

Gopher baroque...


Appliances plugged in GFCI outlet works but when plugging in the downstream outlet doesn’t

Only do the following if you are familiar with electric wiring and the necessary safety precautions.

Switch off the circuit breaker that controls the outlet with the GFCI.
Open the outlet and remove the GFCI.
Check the wiring.

There should be two wires (black and white) going to the terminals marked LINE.  There should also be two wires (should be black and white) connected to the LOAD terminals.  The hot wires are black and the neutral wires are white.

If these check out, and if you think you are prepared, then switch the breaker back on and check the voltage at the LINE terminals (should be about 120 V).

Then check the voltage at the LOAD terminals (should be the same voltage).

Push the TEST switch on the GFCI.  The voltage at the LOAD terminals should
 go to 0 V while the voltage at the LINE terminals should stay at 120 V.

If all of this checks out, you need to check at least one of the downstream outlets. Again, they should have a black and white wire connected to their terminals and the voltage should be 120 V.

Trip the GFCI and check that the voltage goes to 0 V.

Note that if any of the connections use the backstab (located at the back of the outlet), you should change those to connect with the screw terminals on the outlet. Backstab connections are known to be unreliable.

If everything checks out, then you may need to call an electrician.


Being the highest drain might cause a bit more water to be sucked out of the trap causing some odor to get past the remaining water. If it's a bathroom sink, they're prone to gross buildups due to soap scum, toothpaste, shaving cream and whatever. I have a brush from an aquarium that I run down my bathroom drain and trap regularly and it has helped a lot.


Isolator switch for electric generator to change from bonded to floating neutral

The root problem is you are modifying an appliance that is UL-listed, thus, voiding the UL listing.  And further, you create a situation that Code really does not like, where a procedure is essential to safety.  Code wants interlocks to be mechanical.
Assuming this thing has an internal GFCI to keep you honest, the problem is on the other side: when you've disconnected it from the house and are now using it portable, and you forget to restore the N-G connection.   Again the internal GFCI will protect you here, if it exists and works - but not every outlet has GFCI.  In fact the company has a page on how to disconnect the N-G bond for powering a refrigerator (which often trip GFCIs).
I am a huge fan of "permanent wiring done temporarily", so I would just bolt on a small box and put the appropriate wrenches in that box, and simply follow the factory procedure for removing/reapplying the N-G bond.
If you had to use a switch, I agree, a 12V switch is probably insufficient. Your best bet that's readily available is 30A snap switches intended for water heaters etc.  If it's 2-pole, parallel it. (still a codevio, but more suitable for the service).


How do I treat a recently sanded pine staircase?

I have remodeled quite a few Victorians the ones with pine or fur treads were usually stained with a honey or amber colored stain then polyurethane, I used varathane a solvent based poly, I have been told the water based polys are as good but my limited experience with water based was not as good as solvent based.

I use very expensive brushes this is the real trick to a nice finish with poly ($20.00 is normal for a good quality brush)  to make the brush last years you will need a container that you can put some solvent in with the brush and seal it, after cleaning most the poly out, put the brush in solvent at least 3/4 of the bristles covered )
Seal the jar next time you want to use a day week or year later take the brush out, shake out the excess solvent seal the jar up and start applying , when you mix your poly stir never shake (unless you have a vacuum top to pull the air bubbles out).
When done clean the brush add some fresh solvent to the jar and put your brush in. Do this if even just going for a lunch break once the poly drys the brush is toast.

Poly works best with a medium heavy coat and let dry completely, light sanding between coats for awesome wood grain. First I would stain the entire staircase then 1 coat on the entire staircase. Since you want a carpet runner I would then put down 1-2 more coats on each end an inch or 2 inside where the carpet runner will go. This really brings that old growth wood grain out.


Change to different condenser fan motor model?

You will need to match the RPM and the HP rating will need to match or exceed the original motor. Don't mess with "close enough" RPMs. Higher, and you will increase HP of motor needed by some unknown amount and potentially burn out motor. Or you will push the fan blade to RPMs it wasn't designed for and it could fail catastrophically. You will need a capacitor appropriate for the motor. You can use a brushless motor.


Does this basement pit drain into the soil or the sewer?

I emptied the water from this pit and after a day or so it started to smell like sewage in my basement.  That's when I realized that this pit works the same way as a toilet.  The water at the bottom block the fumes from the sewer.  The oil-like substance at the bottom of the pit is some kind of sealant put there to prevent the water from draining into the ground below.  I dumped some water down the pit and voila, problem solved.


Filling a gap in double-active free-swing double-doors

You could use two soft astragals and make them overlap slightly.

If the sweep (soft part) is very thin, the misalignment of the closed doors will be almost unnoticeable.1 You'll have to shop around to see what you can get. A wider sweep is better because it will flex more. I think the "T" style is more attractive than the draft-stop style. You might have to add some wooden strips to the door edges to narrow the gap slightly.

Here in cross section are some suggested arrangements:

Well, of course you will notice it because you know it is there. No one else will notice, trust me.


I've seen kits of cleaner/refinishers - I have no idea how good they are, but for $20-$30 they might be worth trying before bringing out the heavy machinery.

A quick search came up with this - I'm sure your local big-box will have something similar.


Replacing and outlet (2 plugs) with only one black, one-white, has ground wire

The first outlets you replaced had a black wire, white wire and ground  coming in, feeding the outlet and then leaving the outlet to go to another outlet, feeding it and going somewhere else. The last outlet on the circuit will only have a black wire, white wire and ground coming in to feed the outlet and will end there. Just hook the single black wire to the brass screw and the white wire to the silver screw and the ground wire to the green screw.

When replacing any outlets or switches, do not utilize the backstabs as they are prone to failure. Use the screw terminals and shepherd hook the wire around them.... and turn off the power

If the outlets you're replacing utilize four screws on the outlets, you can pigtail the wires and only use two screws. This will make future replacements easier and will provide more reliable service.


Can I put a sanding drum in a routing table and use it like a spindle sander?

A typical spindle sander rotates at between 100 and 2,000 RPM, where a router is much faster 8,000 to 35,000 RPM. So I would say this is probably not the best idea, and could lead to damage to the equipment, injury, and death.


Raising porch floor to accommodate plumbing and keep first floor all one level

I generally prefer the same floor level too, but it sounds like this is separate from the plumbing. If either route would let you get the plumbing installed (to code), I don't see any reason not to.  Also keep in mind that you can raise the floor and run the plumbing straight down through drilled holes.

As far as raising the floor goes, the main consideration there wouldn't be the plumbing but whether the ceiling is high enough after you raise your floor 6 inches or so. IBC Section 310.6.1 would require that there be at least 7' clearance to the lowest projection from the ceiling (i.e. the bottom of the light fixture). If space allows and you'd be happier with the result, I'd go for it.


Has anyone had the same experience?

No, I haven't seen that happen with 3M or FrostKing.

  Is there a way of repairing these?

I have accidentally melted the film/trimmed wrong/had kids poke holes in it. I have successfully patched 4" holes that have lasted a season using indoor weather sealing tape.


Why is there no power on the load side of a GFCI outlet?

If you're getting power on the LINE side but not the LOAD side of the GFCI, there's a few possibilities.

The GFCI is not set.

Make sure the reset button is pushed in all the way.

The device is not wired probably.

GFCIs typically will not set if they are wired incorrectly.

The device is defective.

Exchange it, or buy a new one.

There's a ground-fault.

Find the fault and fix it.

Based in your description, it sounds like a defective device.


How can I keep a door closed without a damper?

A Pneumatic Door Closer

can cost you less than $10.00, and is easily installed with 5-6 screws.

Attach one bracket to the door frame.
Attach the other bracket to the door.
Install the pins to hold arm in brackets.
Done.

If that's too rich for you. A Screen door latch

Will run you about $8.00, though installation is a bit more difficult.

A Barrel Bolt

will cost you about $3.00, and requires 6 screws. Though makes opening the door from both sides tricky.

If you're really hard up for cash. A door catch is only about $2.00, and only requires 4 screws to install it.

If you only have the change you found between the couch cushions. A Gate hook

might be what you're looking for (~$1.50). Again, this could make opening the door from both side troublesome.

Help an old lady cross the street, and ask her for a dollar in return. Then you can get a Double Roller Catch.

They're typically used for cabinets, but might work for you if the wind is not too strong.


Need help buying the right sized off-grid solar system

There's no magic here. Plenty of engineering, though.
Yes, the inverter output needs to be greater than your peak load.
Not only that, your battery bank size needs to be adequate that the peak load is not exceeding the battery bank charge drawdown rate. Hint, yours is not - you're contemplating drawing over 100 amps at 24 volts off a 200AH battery, or C/2 - that needs to be about 10 times bigger for the usual C/20 that solar storage batteries are designed to tolerate.
That's harder with cheap but fussy lead acid batteries and easier with expensive but tolerant (except where they are not) lithium batteries. In both cases reducing your peak load is usually the most cost-effective option before any others.
Off-grid solar is expensive. In many locations, the "average full sun-hours per day" is a lovely figure that is essentially useless for the month you have to design for (in my area, November - gray and terrible from a solar point of view. If you can make it through November here, other months are easy, but enough solar input and batteries for a non-grid-tied November is daunting/expensive.) That also means that you have excess power (and no grid connection to sell it) most other months.
Those cheap but fussy lead acid batteries have limited lifetime and limited tolerance for being deeply discharged, which is one thing that makes the ongoing "cost per kilowatt hour" significantly higher than grid electricity, in most cases. The popularity of grid tie is in part because it's like having a really, really good battery 99+% of the time, and the maintenance is just paying for your connection fee, which is usually a lot less than paying for a few tons of batteries every few years (perhaps longer if you are very careful with them.)
I spent a while designing a solar system for my place, since the power company and neighbors were being uncooperative (the power line is not quite on the road, so an easment to get it to the road and then to my place was needed.) It was a heck of a lot of money. Fortunately the neighbor situation changed, and then the power company became cooperative, and it was still a heck of a lot of money to get the grid, but it was a lot less money than off-grid would have been, and lacked some of the limitations (I was going to have to have a generator to run for heavy loads that could not be reduced.)


Is it safe to connect a timer to an instant hot water dispenser?

You need to determine the maximum current (amperage) your water dispenser will draw, then verify that both the extension cord and the timer can each handle that current as as sustained load.


Why does voltage still exists when a circuit is broken by a 3-way switch?

Do some research on capacitive coupling, and Inductive coupling. This should explain why you are seeing voltage on the "dead" traveler.

If you load up the traveler that is not carrying current; with a test light for example, you'll likely see this voltage go away.

Working in a residential setting, this voltage is likely harmless. Phantom voltages, however, can be lethal when working with distribution lines and other high voltage situations.

You may still want to have a licensed electrician come out and take a look, just to be sure this is actually the case.


How can I use drain motor as aquarium motor?

Pumps function by providing sufficient pressure to overcome what's called the "static head" at a desired rate of flow. Static head is the weight of the water in the height of the pipe as it rises above the source. The higher the elevation, the higher the output head pressure from the pump must be. You can increase the head pressure of a pump a little by restricting flow; think of what happens to a hose when you put your thumb over the end. So the trick is the balance between the two values, but we don't have any way of knowing what the capacity of your washing machine pump will be and it's not likely that is data that the washing machine OEM will publish. All you can do is try it and test it. If it can lift your desired flow of water 2.5m high, then it worked. If you think about it however, a washing machine pump typically would not need to provide more than about 1m of head, so it might be a problem. If it is, you can try using a smaller hose / pipe and see if you can get the head pressure, but the flow rate will go down.

Secondarily, aquarium pumps also are designed to not need lubrication that comes in contact with the water so as to avoid contaminating it for fish. If you don't have fish, you don't need to be concerned about that but if you do, it might be an issue in using a washing machine pump.


How to reinsulate a water heater ignition wire?

If you're handy with a soldering iron, I would suggest at a minimum that you replace the wire with a new piece with the appropriate thermal rating.
Ideally, replace the whole igniter module.
As noted in the comments, you may want to determine the cause of the melting so you can fix it so it doesn't happen again.


OK, the white wire is your neutral, not ground. If you only have a white and a black out of the ceiling box, then I'm guessing the box is metal and probably grounded. Check the box to make sure it's rated for a ceiling fan. It usually says so inside. Install the fan bracket and then the fan. Hook the black hot to the black from the the fan. Hook the white neutral from the box to the white from the fan. Hook the bare copper or green wire from the fan to the box or green screw on the bracket.


New garage door opener belt sags when opening

I had the same issue on a brand new opener I just installed. The non-pulling side of the belt was loose and floppy when opening. Turns out I just didn't follow the instructions for tensioning the belt properly.

Tensioning instructions right here: http://support.chamberlain.com/articles/How_To/How-do-I-check-and-adjust-the-belt-drive-tension-1484145517129

Once I made sure that the tensioning nut was tightened until the spring was compressed to 1-1/4 inches as instructed, the flop in the belt went away.


Philips Hue dimmer switch detailed manual

Instead of a manual Philips Hue uses a web based trouble shooter. I can only imagine it's because of constant updates to their system. A printed manual would become obsolete in a matter of months. This is going to be a common trend as our world continues to go more and more online. https://www2.meethue.com/support They also have a YouTube channel with a set of instructional videos but I don't recall exactly what it was called.


Can Hardwired Smoke Alarms beep without power?

Yes if you remove all power it can beep a few times from stored energy in the detector.  But not 8 years.  8 seconds, maybe.  I never heard of the fire code ever allowing "plug in" smoke detectors, though.  They are supposed to be permanently mounted (or rather mounted well enough to be difficult for the average conehead to mess with.)


Can I move my washer and dryer 10 feet to the right?

Yes, it's probably not overly difficult.

Water lines

Water lines are pretty easy, just extend them over or run them from a new location. Don't leave dead-legs (or dead-ends), so depending on where you're coming from you should cut and cap the lines as close to the supply as possible, eg 1" away. Dead-legs don't have much water movement, so can become harbours for bacteria which will then get into the rest of the plumbing system.

Waste lines

With waste/drain lines, there are a couple more concerns. You need to move both the vent line and drain line over separately, as vents must be connected within 5 or 6' (depending on 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" line, respectively) of the trap.

You also need to ensure all the waste pipes run downhill towards the drain, and there are no places for water to pool (except for in the trap, of course).

Dryer vent

You want to minimize the distance the dryer vent goes, to minimize the resistance. The less resistance, the harder the air will blow, and the less chances for lint to get stuck and clog it up (which can lead to a fire). The best course of action may be to close up the old hole and make a new one, close as possible to the dryer. I prefer to use 4" solid smooth duct lines whenever possible, and the semi-rigid lines after that in walls, if needed.

Don't put the tin-foil-like lines in the wall (it's okay for the final hookup between the dryer and the wall, but that's it), and don't use the white plastic junk whatsoever.

Electrical

You'll need a dedicated 220V circuit for the dryer, and then another circuit for the washer and plugs in the room. You can probably extend the existing dryer outlet by converting the existing receptacle into a junction (with blank faceplate) but of course it depends on what you are doing with that space after. All junction points must be accessible.

NEC 210.50(C) states the washer outlets must be GFCI-protected if within 6' of the top of the laundry tub. In my laundry room, there's one circuit for a couple outlets including the washer -- the first one is a GFCI outlet, and the rest are connected on the load side so they're all GFCI-protected. I'd recommend just doing something similar, it's not at all difficult and much safer if there's ever water on the floor, etc.

Floor Drain

I don't believe there are any specific code requirements for floor drains for a laundry room, but there may be specific requirements in your local building code (check with your planning office). Either way, it's something you should think about. Washer lines and washer valves do sometimes leak, and can cause a fairly big mess. Having a floor drain in the room will help minimize the damage if this ever happens. It may not be worthwhile to dig up the floor to put one in there, but at least be aware of the path the water would have to take to get to the drain (eg, does it have to go out into another finished room, across the carpet, and turn a couple corners before it gets to the drain?).

Insulation

Since these lines are often installed on an exterior wall, you'll want to think about insulation for them. The picture above is actually from my laundry room. I did spray-foam insulation on the basement walls, and though you can't see in that picture, there is a gap between the framing and the walls: most of the basement it's about 1", but on that section it is closer to 2", just to be sure the pipes are not in the cold zone.


Code requirement that wall box be tight to drywall?

You need an extender
Assuming that your 3/4" "behind" the drywall means that the box is recessed into the drywall, you will need a box extender to fix the situation, as per NEC 314.20:

314.20 Flush-Mounted Installations. Installations within or
behind a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other
noncombustible material, including boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate, shall be made so that the front edge of
the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not
be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (¼ in.).
Installations within a surface of wood or other combustible
surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed
extenders shall extend to the finished surface or project therefrom.

Fortunately for you, plastic box extenders are cheap as chips at any home-improvement store and should serve you just fine in your application.


Why do you want dirt? Grass under trees is common in yards, but uncommon in the wild.

In the wild, things compost at the base of trees all the time. The best mulch for a tree is its own droppings + the droppings of the plants that like to grow under it. (e.g. ferns under cedars, salal under douglas fir).

You can also just add a mulch around the tree. It holds in moisture and protects the soil. My favorite is shavings from a planer at the local wooden boat school. Peeing on the mulch provides nitrogen that helps break down the mulch and release its nutrients in to the soil, which the tree will like.


Installing a smart thermometer (ecobee4) can I move the wires around on the HVAC?

Go ahead

You can take the blue wire from G and move it over to C on the furnace -- there is room for two wires on the typical furnace-board terminal.  The skinny red and white cable carries the Y and C wires to the compressor contactor on your AC's outdoor unit, by the way, and simply stays put when you do this.


How much of a window should be replaced?

I think you would be best off calling the window manufacturer's service department.  Double paned windows are usually made as a unit: two pieces of glass with a spacer between to separate them and seal the opening.  The space is often a vacuum, or filled with an inert gas like Argon.  It might be possible to replace the broken pane, but you would be losing all the other benefits of a double-paned window: insulation, soundproofing and blocking heat and UV from sunlight.


What should I use as backing for mosaic accent tiles that are a different thickness than the main field tiles?

If the mosaic accent tiles are thinner than the field tiles, I think building up extra thinset behind the accent tiles and carefully pushing them into it so they are flush with the surrounding field tiles is a decent approach.

If the mosaic accent tiles are thicker... I don't have a good solution for that.  That is the situation I had in my shower and I just have a bit of a lip that is grouted.  The transition is not too bad.

How different are the tile thickness'?


Need help with water valve/cartridge removal

A bit late to answer my own question but what I ended up doing is I cut the pipe just around the valve and then installed Sharkbite ball valve over. So far it's been more than a year and no issues.


How to fix or replace the timer button of a microwave oven?

I have repaired dials similar to this in the past.

I have found that if you apply some CA glue (super glue) or epoxy to the crack, and then wrap the outside of the shaft tightly with electrical tape, it will hold up under most circumstances.

Failing that, it appears that you can buy the replacement knob from several online suppliers.


Light switch using only black wires - Incoming whites terminate together in box - New timer switch requires white neutral

I am assuming that there is a bundle of neutrals (the white wires) in the box. First determine which is the line side (hot) conductor and which is the load (switch leg) conductor on the existing switch. This is important since you are installing a time and the Hot must be on the correct lead. First connect the Ground (bare or green) conductor to the timer. Now you connect the Hot to the correct lead (probably the black) and then the Switch leg to the proper lead (probably the red). All that is left should be the  connection of the neutral unscrew the wirenut attached to the bundle of white wires, add a pigtail and attached it to the proper location on the timer.

I am assuming you are using safe practices by never trying to connect or splice wires will the breaker is hot. First identify then kill the circuit then splice and connect.

I am not sure you know what a pigtail is so here is an illustration.

Godd luck and stay safe.


How can I cover the hole left by removing a kitchen wall fan?

Perhaps after insulation and sealing with foam, you could put a "dummy" vent cover over the now closed hole. Just seal it like it was real and you avoid the siding match problem. Fill the flapper with foam and it will be impervious to critters and weather.


How can I drive a screw with an impact drill?

That is how it should work.  The drill is designed so that less pressure on the trigger means less power to the drill.  It could damage the driver if you were to keep it in that state of trying to turn and failing for an extremely extended period, but not if its momentary like you describe.

In short - good question but you're worrying too much. :)

Oh - yes - by the way - actually this is what it was designed for - exactly so.  It's designed to apply torque to bolts and screws and drill bits.


How do you protect your home while restaining your front door?

Go to your local lumber yard or big box store and ask about a loaner slab. They know that builders want to send all their stuff out to be finished and will often loan door slabs for no charge. This gives you full functionality of your door while you finish the slab. Take the door dimensions and swing direction (with your back to the hinges).

Now, if you didn't buy your door (or at least your finishing products) from one of these places you may need to do a little more begging. Explain the situation and see what comes of it. An alternative is to buy a cheap scratch-and-dent slab and install it, then sell it on Craigslist or use it for a workbench.


Does my house just not have a plumbing cleanout?

The cleanout would typically be at the base of the main plumbing stack and/or just inside or outside the home. When located outside, it's common for them to get buried over with landscaping. You should also have one every 100' to the connection with the municipal sewer. When located inside, they may be in the wall with a removable cover on the drywall instead of a large plug in the floor.

That said, I believe most plumbers would just pull the toilet and snake it from there. You know the clog is downstream of that toilet, and you know that all drain connections from the toilet down should be at least 3" to run a large snake down the line.

Here a bit more of the requirements for a cleanout from the 2012 plumbing code which I doubt have changed much since your home was built (mine in the early 1980s has the cleanout at the base of the stack and another in the front yard). Note there are lots of exceptions, like not requiring cleanouts for anything above the bottom floor of the residence that can be found in the source link:

  2012 International Plumbing Code - Cleanout requirements:

  IPC - Section 708 Cleanouts

  IPC - 708.1 Scope. This section shall govern the size, location,
  installation and maintenance of drainage pipe cleanouts.

  IPC - 708.2 Cleanout plugs. Cleanout plugs shall be brass or plastic,
  or other approved materials. Brass cleanout plugs shall be utilized
  with metallic drain, waste and vent piping only and shall conform to
  ASTM A 74, ASME A112.3.1 or ASME A112.36.2M. Cleanouts with
  plate-style access covers shall be fitted with corrosion-resisting
  fasteners. Plastic cleanout plugs shall conform to the requirements of
  Section 702.4. Plugs shall have raised square or countersunk square
  heads. Countersunk heads shall be installed where raised heads are a
  trip hazard. Cleanout plugs with borosilicate glass systems shall be
  of borosilicate glass.

  IPC - 708.3 Where required. Cleanouts shall be located in accordance
  with Sections 708.3.1 through 708.3.6.

  IPC - 708.3.1 Horizontal drains within buildings. All horizontal
  drains shall be provided with cleanouts located not more than 100 feet
  (30 480 mm) apart.

  IPC - 708.3.2 Building sewers. Building sewers shall be provided with
  cleanouts located not more than 100 feet (30 480 mm) apart, measured
  from the upstream entrance of the cleanout. For building sewers 8
  inches (203 mm) and larger, manholes shall be provided and located not
  more than 200 feet (60 960 mm) from the junction of the building drain
  and building sewer, at each change in direction and at intervals of
  not more than 400 feet (122 m) apart. Manholes and manhole covers
  shall be of an approved type.

  IPC - 708.3.3 Changes of direction. Cleanouts shall be installed at
  each change of direction greater than 45 degrees (0.79 rad) in the
  building sewer, building drain and horizontal waste or soil lines.
  Where more than one change of direction occurs in a run of piping,
  only one cleanout shall be required for each 40 feet (12 192 mm) of
  developed length of the drainage piping.

  IPC - 708.3.4 Base of stack. A cleanout shall be provided at the base
  of each waste or soil stack.

  IPC - 708.3.5 Building drain and building sewer junction. There shall
  be a cleanout near the junction of the building drain and the building
  sewer. The cleanout shall be either inside or outside the building
  wall and shall be brought up to the finished ground level or to the
  basement floor level. An approved two-way cleanout is allowed to be
  used at this location to serve as a required cleanout for both the
  building drain and building sewer. The cleanout at the junction of the
  building drain and building sewer shall not be required if the
  cleanout on a 3-inch (76 mm) or larger diameter soil stack is located
  within a developed length of 10 feet (3048 mm) of the building drain
  and building sewer connection. The minimum size of the cleanout at the
  junction of the building drain and building sewer shall comply with
  Section 708.7.

  IPC - 708.3.6 Manholes. Manholes serving a building drain shall have
  secured gas-tight covers and shall be located in accordance with
  Section 708.3.2.

  IPC - 708.4 Concealed piping. Cleanouts on concealed piping or piping
  under a floor slab or in a crawl space of less than 24 inches (610 mm)
  in height or a plenum shall be extended through and terminate flush
  with the finished wall, floor or ground surface or shall be extended
  to the outside of the building. Cleanout plugs shall not be covered
  with cement, plaster or any other permanent finish material. Where it
  is necessary to conceal a cleanout or to terminate a cleanout in an
  area subject to vehicular traffic, the covering plate, access door or
  cleanout shall be of an approved type designed and installed for this
  purpose.

  IPC - 708.5 Opening direction. Every cleanout shall be installed to
  open to allow cleaning in the direction of the flow of the drainage
  pipe or at right angles thereto.

  IPC - 708.6 Prohibited installation. Cleanout openings shall not be
  utilized for the installation of new fixtures, except where approved
  and where another cleanout of equal access and capacity is provided.

  IPC - 708.7 Minimum size. Cleanouts shall be the same nominal size as
  the pipe they serve up to 4 inches (102 mm). For pipes larger than 4
  inches (102 mm) nominal size, the size of the cleanout shall be not
  less than 4 inches (102 mm).

 Source: http://plumbingengineer.com/content/code-requirements-drainage-system-cleanouts


It looks to me like there is something screwed onto the end of the spigot, probably a backflow preventer. Try to unscrew the wide ring that you are connecting the hose to. These wear out and/or get gummed up and stop working properly.
For reference. here is a photo of such a device I found on the internet:


Thermostat broken or central air system?

Since the AC is kicking on, the problem isn't there. Thermostat is just a simple signalling circuit. Since you have to shake seems to suggest something is wrong with the thermostat.

Some of the old thermostats have a glass bulb with a bead of mercury mounted on the end of a bi-metal string. As the metals expand, the bulb will tilt allowing the mercury to slide down and complete a connection at the base of the bulb to signal AC to kick on. By shaking the thermostat your probably causing to mercury to make contact.

I think these mercury switches were probably used on system older than 15 years. Your thermostat could be just a simple bi-metal spring with contacts make a connection to another set of contacts on a slider. Again shaking will also cause the spring wobble and bend enough to make the necessary contact.

Anyways, problem is likely with that bi-metal spring. Since you have been shaking the thermostat the bi-metal string has either dislodged or way out of calibration. There might not even by any tension on the spring anymore. Has anyone recently bumped or knocked it off the wall at some point in the past?

I think your best bet is to replace the whole thermostat with a newer digital one. You should be able to find one at any of the big box hardware stores.


LED Downlight, in a box, on the wall, with lamp wire?

If this is using bare wire and nuts, you'll need a (shallow plastic) old-work box to hold the junction between the fixture and the cord.  The Edison-base-connection doesn't need such treatment, but in either case, you'll need to make sure that this rig is mounted securely, and has no exposed metallic parts (since there's no ground wire).

The flexible cord is OK, BTW, as per NEC 400.7 point 2 (i.e. a luminaire-to-nearby-outlet connection).  Also, the LED shouldn't care about being in a small-ish box nor about mounting orientation -- it's also a wet location rated fixture, so it can go in the bathroom without worries there.


What kind of radiator is this and can it take TRV

You would remove  the existing vent and add 1/8" pipe up and elbow horizontal. Install the valve as you would a normal cast iron radiator and use a remote mount thermostat device. The heating device you are showing is a convector. You can go to "supplyhouse.com or call 1-888-757-4774" or just "GOOGLE" Dan Foss 1 pipe steam thermostatic radiator valves. Danfoss valve SKU 013G0140, Danfoss thermostat SKU 013G8562 or similar


Locating toilet tank leak: flapper or flush valve or tanks bolts and washers

If the leak is only from the tank to the bowl, and not on the floor, then the only option of the three you listed that can be the cause is the flapper.
Judging from the photo your flapper can be replaced without any disassembling of the tank.
There are two  flexible tabs on the back of the flapper that go over two fixed pins on the bottom or the  overflow pipe. You can reach down and pull the tabs off of the pins, and reverse the process to install the new one. Very easy.
There are two size's of flappers, 2" and 3". You can shut of the water supply valve and remove your old one and take it to the store to match if you are unsure of the correct size.


how to test water pressure coming out of pipes w/o spilling water

There are several factors that should be considered.

If you are on a public water supply or a well.
The size of the supply lines to the bathroom. (typically 1/2" or 3/4")
Length and height of run from main water source.

The pressure can be measured with a gauge that attaches to the water pipe or a faucet at the area you want to use. Typically a pressure of 50 to 70 psi is needed for your application.

The second measurement is capacity of the feed line at the user point. Test this by running the water into a calibrated vessel at full open for a set period of time.

Example: Full flow for one minute, then measure the amount of water. The result will be the gallons per minute. Compare this result to the amount of water the new fixtures need to operate properly.  If your supply gives you 5 gallons a minute and each shower head needs 1 gallon a minute, then you have ample supply. However, it you only have 3 gallons a minute flow and you need 4, then obviously the flow from the four shower heads is going to be too low.

I certainly would do some testing and calculations before doing an expensive renovation as you describe. You also want to look at the hot water capacity of your system to be sure it can keep up with a larger draw of hot water.


The point of a frost-free faucet is that it drains completely when not in use (the shutoff point is at the inner end of the assembly). Insulation should not be a concern, and probably won't accomplish much--copper is a very good conductor of heat, and the outside end is exposed to the elements regardless of any insulation on the pipe.

Follow the general guidelines of masonry with respect to plumbing and other penetrations.


How do I transition from sheet vinyl to bare concrete?

Floor transition trims (or strips) are usually glued. I would avoid an anchor, because in this case it's not really a transition (it's just vinyl on concrete, so it's less than 1mm) and the anchor head (no matter how flat) will not be flush; it'll look bad, and could lead to tripping.

The thing is that the smallets trims expect some height difference. Perhaps you can use a carpet trim, that's fastened with nails (and is flatter).


Can I use a cord and plug to power a wall sconce?

Portable lamps (at least in the US) are generally designed without a ground wire. The bodies of the lamps, even if metal, are designed not to be likely to be prone to a short to the hot lead. The standard lamp cord is therefore two wire (hot and neutral). Most modern lamps are polarized, meaning the cord/plug is designed to ensure that the hot lead is attached to the hot side of the outlet.

Sconces and other lamps that are intended for fixed mountings on electrical boxes have a hot lead, a neutral and a ground. The ground is the safety measure in case of a short.

When you convert a fixture intended for use with a ground wire to a plug-in setup, you need a grounded cord to preserve the safety factor. The simplest way may be to buy a grounded extension cord, cut off the socket end and splice the cord with the plug (male) end into your fixture.

Attach the hot lead to the black wire of the fixture, the neutral to the white (the neutral wire is attached to the larger blade of the plug and the casing is sometimes ridged), and the ground to the green (or bare).

You can then run the cord under a cord cover to a conventional grounded outlet.

P.S. Be sure to use a bushing or something similar to prevent any cord/cable from being pulled through and cut or frayed by metal edges at the point where it exits the fixture or metal cable cover.

CAUTION

This whole discussion assumes that you are installing this permanently (a wall fixture is not well protected at the back from damage or short) and on an interior wall. Exterior fixtures are specifically designed to attach in an exact way to exterior boxes to ensure that they are water resistant. Any compromise of that attachment mechanism may lead to leakage, shorts and danger of electrocution or fire.


What Cause Hum from Electric Oven after Replacing Wire and Ring Connector to Broil Element?

Hums usually occur when the items or conductors you replaced or repaired are not remounted properly and vibrate while activated. Try checking out all of your connections and see if everything is mounted tight enough.

Good luck


Why is the water pressure suddenly high in my toilet after hot water heater replacement?

Try running the water for several minutes, both hot and cold sides, at the other fixtures too. Do they behave similarly? Do the symptoms diminish after a minute or two?
When a water system is opened, especially for something like a heater replacement, air gets into the pipes. Eventually the air finds its way out through the various faucets. As bubbles of air exit the faucet they make a lot of noise. They also can cause the water to eject forcefully. It sounds and looks a lot like the water pressure had been increased even though that's not actually the case. Running the faucets for a few minutes allows the air to be purged from the system and it'll behave normally again afterward.


Can anybody idtentify what this drain vent is for?

Given the "cast iron transitions to plastic" (or at least "new and older piping connect") it would appear that the toilet was moved, and the vent was preserved.


Am I doing something wrong with this sanding job?

The short ends you pictured are the cross grains of the board. What I see is that you have used a too coarse sandpaper on these edges. This should be easy to fix. You need to step down the grit of the sandpaper. Any final sanding should be done with 220 or 320 paper. On these end details, use fine paper, break its (paper's) back so it is flexible, and take your time working it on these ends by hand. It may take a few minutes, but it will smooth out nicely.


Is this mold on my room's ceiling? Is it dangerous?

They definitely look like water spots or leaks. You stated you've been in the attic and saw no sigh of leaks... have you been up there lately and actually looked at the drywall where the spots are? If no signs of any leaks, blotch some bleach over the spot. If it's an old water stain that might remove it. If you do paint, get a stain blocker and apply it per instructions before painting.  It really does not look like mold. have you ever had any rodents up in the attic??


How can I install a drain pan under my existing water heater?

The only slightly easy way is to drain the water heater of all water. Hopefully the tank is connected to the water supply pipes with flexible hoses and not soldered copper. The tank is now ready to be raised so the new "Smitty" pan can be slid underneath.   Depending on the size of the tank you may want to enlist some helpers. I've managed to wrestle a 30 gallon tank onto a catch pan, but a single family dwelling is more likely to use a 40 or 50 gallon tank. Even empty it will be awkward for 2 people to lift while a third person slides the pan underneath.   I've found it helpful to have some 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 blocking on hand so if needed can support the tank and slowly removed as the pan is inserted.


I hate to tell you this, but your barn is toast. Have it demolished before it kills some curious soul who wanders inside out of morbid fascination.


It is normal for scissors to have a gap between the blades when they are closed. The blades are bent on a slight curve so that there is a minimal point of contact between the two cutting edges while a closing cutting action is taking place. Without this there would be terrible cutting performance due to tolerance in the surface flatness of the blades and of the ground cutting edges.

Note that you do not want to be heating up the scissor blades to soften the metal enough for trying to hammer on the blades. Doing this will take away the hardness of the blades and basically ruin your scissors. The softened and untempered blades will not hold a decent cutting edge. I suggest that if you try this the scissors will rapidly loose their status as your favorites.


Can a C wire be added to an old Teledyne Laars JVT-100C boiler?

Yes you can, on your boiler there is a transformer above the gas valve. One terminal is the 24 v supply and the other is the common. It's not always easy to identify which is which. The process involves connecting one side of the secondary to the L2 (neutral) and checking if voltage is additive or subtractive. Hopefully it's identified. It's much easier that way.


I'm not entirely sure if this will be useful in your situation - but the way your typical smoke detector works is by measuring the radioactive decay, apparently Americum is at least used in some of them.

But I just learned something new (thanks, Wikipedia!) - apparently some smoke detectors use optical sensors!

So you should be able to do something similar in your lounge. It may take several sensors and combine their inputs. Obviously you'll have to deal with the fact that the smoke distribution probably isn't initially uniform. Potentially you could add an extractor to your room (not sure if that's desirable as I don't smoke) and measure the smoke levels there.

Not sure if there are any pre-built solutions, but perhaps you could gut several optical smoke alarms for their sensors.


Old structure: 2X4 studs at 24'' on center

I live in a tract house built 1970 which is framed with 2x4 studs in all exterior walls and interior load bearing wall on 24 inch centers. It is structurally sound, but the insulation is not good. I think 2x4s on 24" centers is fine for a garage.

Houses of this vintage and quality didn't use finger jointed studs. This may be stronger than the finger jointed studs but of course it meant that some studs were curved as installed or curved in place. What type of studs are you going to use?


Paint does not show true color even after 2 coats on top of existing light color

There's a few things that could be going on here.  First, the wall paint could be absorbing the new paint more than the fresh white board or paper you are using.  The texture of the wall could make the color appear to be lighter, but not sure if that's the case if you have a flat paint (not glossy).  Also, have you ever seen those optical illusions where there are two squares that are the exact same color grey but one looks almost black and the other looks almost white because of the colors that surround it (square A and B are the exact same color)?

The grey on a stark white background is going to seem darker even if there is just a little white border.

So, you have a few choices.  You can just accept that it looks lighter in the room and use a darker shade, but you also have to realize that once all the wall is painted, the color will look different than it does now.  You can prime and then paint.  What I like to do is use a tinted primer then one coat of paint.  You get the best of both worlds and typically the one coat (of quality paint) is enough.

Now, as to why your painter wants to use Sherwin Williams paint...  It's most likely that is what he is used to.  Painters have big brand loyalty, and the paint stores feed this with quantity discounts and "pro accounts" that get lower prices.  Also, note that "ProMar 200" sounds like some nice "professional' product, but it's one of the least expensive paints SW sells.  It is their value line paint for large volume painters.  Home Depot also has a "pro" line of paint, and in my experience "Pro" in the paint world means "good paint for a low price for large jobs".  It doesn't mean its somehow better than "consumer" paints.

Direct answer to your two points:

If the paint has a hard time covering with the light color you have chosen, it's not a very good paint.  Light colors should hide the best because the white pigment in the paint is very strong.  Darker colors like reds and blues are notorious for poor coverage, but not grey.
Many other paints would probably cover better.  ProMar is a base-level paint that works good in most cases, but there are certainly better covering options.  Does $5-10/gallon more for a better paint really matter in the long run and in comparison to what you're paying for labor?

Also: specifically not trying to recommend a brand or throw SW under the bus...  SW has 4-5 lines of interior paint and I'm sure they have great stuff.  I have friends that won't use anything other that Benjamin Moore and others that only buy from Home Depot.  I happen to believe that most suppliers have good products and you have to choose the right one based on the job.  You can't just blindly use Product X for every single job.


What type of glue should I use to paste a vinyl sheet to a wall?

Yes, there is.  It comes in 11oz and 30 oz. cartridge tubes, as well as, 1 gal. and 4 gal. containers under the search heading "vinyl adhesive".

I've used it on shower surrounds, rolled vinyl flooring, and a faux leather vinyl wall covering.

I find the most important consideration, during application, is to spread the adhesive well, for even coverage, to avoid "high spots" that may be evident afterward.  A V-notch 3/16" x 5/32" cove base adhesive spreader works best but for large areas a 1/4" (or smaller) square notch trowel will do.

[Edit: oh, and a regular baking rolling pin or a similar type of roller on a pole will help ensure the finishing material is pressed into the adhesive.]

[2nd edit: when rolling, start in the center and work toward the edges to prevent air bubbles...as one would to hang wallpaper.]


LED lights "popcorning" (flashing on and off randomly)

Your dimmer and LED lights are incompatible.

In the off position the dimmer is leaking a small current to the lights, this is enough to charge the smoothing capacitors in the LED drivers, once charged to a sufficient threshold, the circuit is able to drive the LEDs and drain the capacitor and the process starts again.

See answers to other questions about LED Blinking

See

Dimming LED lamps with ordinary dimmers - Big Clive
How to FIX Flickering LED Lights & LED lights that won't Turn Off with Dimmer Switch - Vince


Where could the water leaking from in my Dishwasher?

This could be a number of things (any part that carries water could leak...) and is therefore unanswerable as asked.
However, prior to voting to close this question I will say that the main unit that is located centrally in the bottom of the tub and contains the motor, pump(s), and main spray arm usually has a large diameter ring gasket that is the primary seal between the water in the tub and the floor beneath the unit.


Is an orbit sander preferable over a belt sander for tabletops?

Because of the different motions, a belt sander could cause a deeper "line" where the edge of the belt hits the wood, since you can only go back and forth with it, certainly not optimal. With an orbital sander you would be moving it very quickly, in different directions and because of the way the pad moves as well, you would not be "eating" into the wood as quickly or in a line, as mentioned before, this is certainly the way to go.


How to support freestanding trellis with 2x4 legs

I'm not sure if this will work for your exact situation, but you could use 2 or 4 "deck blocks" to anchor the trellis in place.

These are made to hold a 2x board in the cross or a 4x4 in the "socket".  You could connect your side legs of the trellis with a length of pressure treated 2x4 and place this block in the center.  Then use concrete screws to attach the 2x4 to the deck block.  The idea would be to bury the deck block so the 2x4 sets on the ground to stop it from rocking.

If you think you needed it to be more stable, you could get a block for each corner and use galvanized brackets and concrete anchors to attach them to your feet.  Totally or partially bury them to level the trellis.

The advantage is that you get a pre-cast concrete footing without the need to manually mix and pour concrete and it's relatively easy to move if you ever needed to (easier than a typical post concreted into a hole in the ground).

But, that said, getting a single pressure treated 4x4, cutting it into 2' sections and concreteing those into the ground doesn't sound like a terrible option either.

I'd worry about stakes or something similar being pulled out by the wind.  With a free standing structure, the mass/stability of the footings is the only thing that can hold it in place.


Techniques for Squarely Cutting the End of a PVC Pipe

There is a tool that is made for cutting out the PVC pipe in a joint so that it may be used again. That tool may be useful to square up the end of the pipe in this case if you were able to hold the tool inline with the pipe while it shaves off the high part of the pipe. This is what one example of the tool looks like.

These are used to chucking up the tool into a good sized electric drill (AC powered is recommended). The round slug on the end of the tool keeps the cutter centered in the pipe so that the cutters will shave off the PVC pipe in the coupling. In your case this may allow you to square off the pipe in your drain if you can hold the tool steady whilst it shaves off the high part.

Note that not all PVC pipe shavers are suitable to your situation. Some of them do not have the same type of round slug as shown above. Cheaper ones may just have a thin washer style guide to hold the cutter centered in the pipe. Even the above tool type may not work in your instance if the non-square end of your pipe is too angled.

When searching for these the search phrase you want is "PVC fitting saver".


Use interior door as shed door but under cover

If it's a hollow core, then no, it won't be okay.
A solid core or panel door of some kind will be okay for a while, but you'll get the longest life out of an exterior grade door.


Any problem to build a house that covers a same-sized hole in the ground?

Look at it as a start on a foundation hole - but don't get hung up on "making the house the same size/shape as the existing hole" because you can alter the size/shape of the hole when building the foundation, on which you will put your house, of whatever size & shape matches your ideas and budget.
You might feel more of an advantage to sticking with the hole size/shape if it was, say, quarried in solid rock and digging would be difficult/expensive, but since you mention the hole being dug, I assume lacking further info that it's in something approximating normal dirt, and normal dirt can be moved by the appropriate machines to build an appropriate foundation to set your house on.


You're basically asking how to build a free-standing deck. According to this calculator, you need 2x12 joists on 12 inch centers.

If you don't already have one, I suggest buying a deck building book from the hardware store. It will tell you exactly what you need to know.


Of course you can remove the upper part of that wall by:

Scoring the drywall on the finished side where you want the cut to be.
Removing the drywall from the top portion taking care not to pull off any below the score line.
Cutting the studs along that line and removing the top portion of each one.
Place some top plate on top of the remaining studs to tie them all together.

Ok, now you have done what you asked but your going to be left with a wobbly and weakly supported half-wall.  It was not designed or built to stand on its own and you will likely not be satisfied with it. I will say that I don't believe it's possible to secure a 2x4 wall by attaching only at the bottom.
Free standing half walls are usually deeper than a normal floor-to-ceiling wall and they are often secured through the floor and to the floor joists for stability.
I think your plan needs to be revisited.
What to do?  You need to somehow provide a secure anchor to keep the remaining


Do my washing machine and dryer need to be close to the water heater?

There's no problem moving the washer and dryer in respect to your question. The column of cold in the line would be well cleared for just about any reasonable distance by the time the load is ready to wash. But it is a concern if the run is very long. For the most part you don't need hot water anyway, unless you wear a lot of whites or work as a mechanic or get greasy clothes some other way. The bigger issue is the plumbing drains. Supplying hot and cold is probably easyish. If a suitable drain and vent are not available then you have a problem.


M5 Pan head machine screw.

Edit: M5 screws have a 5mm shaft.

Edit2.1 (my apologies): This is an M5-0.80 screw. 0.8 refers to the thread pitch, which (for metric screws) is measured by dividing 9.6mm by 12 threads, which equals 0.80. The picture above shows a minor optical illusion of 12 threads over 10mm (pitch = 0.8333); but M5-0.85 screws simply don't exist.


You do not want to cover over the window with a TV. First of all there is the glare point that  Paulster2 points out. That alone should make you take stock of this situation and see what a bad idea this is. However there are a number of additional considerations as well.

Windows have a role of safety exit possibility if you ever get caught trapped in a room during a fire. This for both outbound escape and for inbound access by emergency personnel.
There is a reason windows are added to a house. Obviously it is to allow light in so that the room does not look like a cave.

If you have no usable wall space to mount the TV then get your self a console table. These do not have to be that expensive and you can even get them with an integrated post assembly that permits mounting the TV bracket with tilt and swivel capability. Best with this approach is you can move it around if your change your TV room layout or go off to a different house.

Talking about moving. Say you did move after you had mounted a TV over a window. Think of the mess in the window trim that would need repairing before you could sell.

Lastly, putting a TV over a window is just weird.


Why does anode rod need to have metal thread contact?

The anode rod must be electrically in contact with the steel of the inner tank. Only this will confer sacrificial protection of the steel tank. The statement in the instructions is correct. See sacrificial metal. Google "sacrificial protection".

Even though you used dope and teflon tape you may well have electrical contact through the threads because the threads cut through the dope and tape. To check you would check the electrical resistance between the end of the anode rod and the fitting the rod threads into. You should get close to zero resistance (zero ohms).

If the measured resistance is not close to zero, you could perhaps just tighten the rod more and achieve metal-to-metal contact. I am sure you don't want to overtighten because you might be thinking of replacing this rod later, but you must achieve metal to metal contact for rod to do its job.

Also, overtightening could damage the tank. It could be that the threads of the anode rod must be only lightly coated with pipe dope for metal-to-metal contact to occur. You will just have to determine what you have.

EDIT
Glad to hear you got 0.1 ohm. I just went out and measured the resistance across the threaded brass joint on one of my outside faucets (warm climate tract house with faucet supply coming out of the soil) and got 0.1 ohm. I installed this with dope and tape because it leaked the first time with just tape.

I measured the resistance across the "dielectric union" supply line to my water heater and got hundreds of ohms.


Ceiling Light Won't Turn Off After Replacement

Switch loops 101

What you have here is a classic example of an old-style switch loop.  The white wire capped off by itself is the switched-hot coming back from the dimmer in the wall, which is why the breaker tripped when you nutted it in with the other whites -- you had created a short circuit from switched-hot directly to neutral.  So, to get the fixture working again, with the power off:

Un-nut the fixture blacks from the box blacks -- leave the box blacks nutted from each other.
Nut the solo white wire to the fixture blacks.

And then you should be able to button everything back up, turn the power on, and at least be able to control the fixture in an on/off fashion.  You'll need to replace the dimmer as well, since it likely died (failed short circuit) during the earlier breaker-tripping mishap.


Hot Water Knob Drips When Cold Water Is Turned On

Try tightening the packing nut on the hot side. If that doesn't do it you need to put in a new packing nut washer or rope. Here's what's happening: both valves closed it's not going to leak from either stem, hot valve open there's no pressure on the stem because all the water is going to the diverter and cold valve which will leak from the stem if the packing is bad, cold valve open water is going to the diverter and the hot valve and leaking out the stem.


Replace light switch with weird wiring and no ground

I agree, the /3 Romex is certainly intentional future-proofing in case you add a ceiling fan later.  Unused wires should be capped, not wired to hot.

It looks like the Romex they used does indeed have a ground wire in it, and they have grounded the steel junction boxes, assuming corrosion has not damaged that.

However, note how the yokes (metal ears) of the switch and receptacle attach to the metal boxes, i.e. Only by the screws.  The yoke does not bottom out onto the metal box, and where it makes contact is painted.  The screw threads are not a legitimate grounding path.

So.   Buy a couple feet of 12/2 NM cable and tear off the sheath and grab the ground wire.  If you need more ground wire, strip the insulation off the other wires.  Cut about a 6" length and pigtail it off the ground screw of the switch or receptacle.  Then, unhook the ground wire(s) screwed onto the back of the box, and replace that with about a 6-8" pigtail.   Now join both pigtails, plus the wire(s) you took off the screw, with a wire nut (red or green should be the best size). Shove all that into the back of the box.

Are those ground wires any good?  The simple way is to use a 3-lamp tester and look for 2 yellow lights, or measure 120V between hot and ground.

The more conclusive way is to deliberately connect a duplex receptacle so the hot and neutral screws are actually connected to hot and ground wires.  Then hook up a big load like a hair dryer or 1500W heater, measure the voltage across hot to ground, turn on the load momentarily, and measure the voltage again.  Don't leave it on.  It should sag only a few volts, about the same as it sags when wired correctly.  Ground is not neutral and is not a substitute for neutral, but it is intentionally bonded at the panel, and this tests that continuity under load.

Almost any test between hot and ground will trip a GFCI device, since it is in fact a ground fault.


Electrical issues in house less than 18 mos old

You're frying a bunch of 120V electrical equipment.  Undervoltage doesn't fry equipment. Overvoltage does!

This is a lost neutral problem

It may be that way from the power company from the power drop.  In which case it would not be the electricians' fault, except they should have detected it.

Your house has two electrical poles or phases coming in.  Any modern panel will separate them like this, so it's a little byzantine (especially with double-stuff breakers) but it's possible to decode.   Anyway, you want to find two receptacle circuits on opposite poles.   Measure their voltages.

119.3/119.9  -- that is pretty normal.  However if you see

105.2/133.4 -- that is the indication of a lost neutral.

The surest way to flush out a lost neutral is to measure one pole while you put a big fat 120V load like a hair dryer on the other.  The dead giveaway of a lost neutral, is the unloaded leg will go up in voltage by several volts or more.

It's possibly from the power company.  The result is half your circuits are getting too much voltage, half get too little, and this changes frequently as loads change.

I have seen lost neutral issues affect several houses at once.


Garage door closes and then reopens - Already adjusted force sensor to max and tried adjusting cable tension

This was a case that fell under General Knowledge idiocy. I had found the Down Power screws and was treating them like the Down Limit screws. In actuality, both generally need to be adjusted.

My method for fixing the problem (in case others find themselves in this situation):

Clear out debris under the door (this has been a problem in the past. A plant or some dirt will be under where the door is, not enough to trigger the electronic eye sensor, but enough to bounce the safety sensor)
Ensure that the electronic eye sensors are cleared (this usually manifests itself as the door not closing at all, just clicking, but just in case)
Adjust the Down Limit screw (located on the left side of the unit when looking at the garage door from the rear) a quarter turn counter-clockwise.
If necessary, adjust the Down Force a bit clockwise to ensure the door goes all the way down now.


The sheen is determined by the top coat, so going over it in satin will lower it. The only caveat is that the thicker film may be noticeable if you're laying down very thick coats.

Rottenstone might be a better option than steel wool for getting into the grain.


Is it possible to a drill hole in the bottom of a terracotta gardening pot?

In addition to using a tile bit, I would recommend using a hand drill instead of a power one. I use mine for drilling thin panels or other delicate material.


IKEA Billy DIY bookcases without bolting in a wall. Is it a good idea/safe?

Screwing to the wall has nothing to do with capacity

Think about it. The furniture isn't necessarily directly against the wall, and a screw or very thin bracket reaching across some distance isn't going to carry much weight in shear. I.E. the wall doesn't ordinarily bear any weight.

It's about safety

Ikea has a very strong message about standing furniture being screwed into the wall.  You didn't quite get the whole message.  It's to prevent furniture from toppling over and killing someone. Furniture topples over when its center of gravity goes outside its feet.  Examples of how that happens:

It isn't level
the floor sags under the weight
someone grabbing the furniture to catch their balance or pull themselves onto their feet
Someone (e.g. child) trying to climb the furniture
All the drawers open
Heavy items in an open drawer not counterbalanced by heavy items in closed ones
Use in a mobile structure (boat, RV, #vanlife, "tiny house" on wheels)
Earthquakes
The top heavily loaded when the bottom is not (greatly amplifying the above)

Every piece of furniture from every manufacturer of the same size will have the exact same problem -- that is basic physics.  The only reason it's such an intense thing for Ikea is, they have chosen to invest heavily in their brand, which makes them targetable.  Likewise, people are sickened by Mexican food trucks and burrito shops every day - but it only makes the news when it's Chipotle.


How can I increase airflow through an attic without soffit vents?

I live in Oregon and gable vents work fine here if you needed more flow I would suggest a solar exhaust fan in the middle of the house to create more flow but if you don’t have excess heat your system is working fine. I have added exhaust fans to my homes as it reduces my cooling costs.


Can I add another cable to a box with four cables in it?

This is in conjunction to Harpers answer. I'm not sure but this might be what you are looking for:

FYI the pigtail method is now required by the NEC. Try article 300.13(B). Device Removal.

When you do pigtail it make sure you have the correct size wire nut.


How to splice new disposal power cord to old outlet wiring

The neutral wire is usually the one with the writing or ribs. This is common and required for ul listing. Connect the wire with writing to your white the other to the black and ground to ground and you will have connected the way it was to the old disposal.


Should a water distribution manifold consist of a circular loop?

The circular loop would only be for the hot water side. It is called a recirculating line and it is in place so when you turn the hot water on the line will not have to purge the cold water first, the hot water will be there at the ready in seconds. It is more expensive in energy costs since the hot water is always moving through the pipes and loosing a little heat which would need to be maintained.


Best solution to install a sense monitor in crowded electrical panel?

Don’t put this device on anything larger than a 20 amp circuit.
these monitors draw very little power and putting them on a large breaker is asking for problems if and when things go bad.
Use a 15 or 20 amp circuit to power the system then if the worst happens you won’t be rewiring the entire panel.
If your breakers allow 2 wires per breaker great add the monitor directly. If your panel only allows 1 wire per lug get a few inches of the correct sized wire for the breaker 20 amp use #12 or 15 amp use #14 wire  a few inches out use a wire nut or some kind of splice device to tie the original conductor your new jumper and the power to the monitor all together. Then put the other end of the new wire to the breaker (a splice in the panel is ok).
If you need voltage sense tap a breaker close to the main lugs.
The reason I said not to use anything larger than a 20 amp is if the power supply fails it would melt the wiring down before tripping the 50 amp bkr, as the wires melt down they usually cross others on the hot or neutral / ground and depending on the failure I have had to replace several panels for aftermarket equipment that went up in flames.
Most of these are measuring the current using current transformers (no actual contact to the wires but the meter and transmitter need power)
Your garage door should not be on a 50 amp breaker in any case.


Recommendation for home automation solution

Your description of the system mentions a Dry Contact Sensor. There are several types on the market. Simply wire these into your existing setup as either Normally Open or Normally Closed. They are easy to set up and some come with free wi-fi phone notifications when triggered.

Here is a Mier Installation Manual that shows wiring possibilities for NO and NC accessories that can help you along.


What type of wall texture is this, and how do you remove it?

That looks like skip trowel. Regardless, your solution depends on if it's plaster or drywall mud.

If it's plaster, you can skim coat it or have it removed and reapplied. Both require a bit of skill and it's best done by a professional. This will not come cheap.

If it's just mud, a skim coat is fairly easy to do but takes time and patience. You can thin down some ready mix mud, apply it with a 3/4 nap roller, then scrape off the excess with a 12" drywall knife. This will probably take a few coats, but it can be accomplished by a diyer. After you have the wall to mostly smooth plane, prime with PVA and you can apply your orange peel texture. Then just prime and paint.

Another solution is to put on 1/4" drywall directly over it. But this is a big job with taping seams, altering trim around doors and windows, extending electrical boxes, and applying texture.

Just to cover all options, it's "possible" to sand smooth. Even renting a power sander hooked up to a shop vac, this will produce a lot of dust. Plaster and certain drywall mud types are really hard to sand. I wouldn't do it.

Also, I would rent a texture sprayer. The cans of texture are really only for touch up and the fumes are pretty bad. Mask off with builders paper or poly sheets anything you don't want texture on. It's all in the prep work.


Bringing new 12/2 circuit to old knob/tube switches, but do not see a neutrals anywhere. Hidden?

Probably a shared neutral which was common with K&T.  Like you said, there could be one neutral in the attic, and you only see hot wires being switched.  The fixtures will all be connected into the shared neutral.  You might be able to see this in your new panel, because your neutral bus will have fewer conductors than there are circuits!  You'll could also notice if you shut off your breaker to the circuit you think you are working on, the neutral will still have current running through it when someone turns on a light switch that is on a different Knob and Tube branch! Ouch!

If this is the case, you should just rip it all out and do it right if at all possible.  Especially for bathroom you need to run have GFCI on all your circuits to be up to code and to be safe.


What is this pipe sticking out of the ground?

It’s probably a stub-out for a drip irrigation line. You’d cut it off slightly below grade, hookup a drip line and run the drip irrigation line on top of the ground.


You might have been happy living with it, but it's a probable red-flag issue.
Acceptable fix - replace sink. If you have a "Habitat for Humanity ReStore" nearby (or some other "thrift store that deals in fixtures") it might not even be that expensive. Doesn't need to be a fancy overpriced brand but it needs to be intact.
Slumlord fix - epoxy or leave as is. It will never be "right" short of replacement. It will lose you renters with reasonable expectations, as they will smell slumlord when they see that sink at the apartment showing and keep looking - elsewhere.


What is the cheapest way to build a temporary pool?

How about you did a 4'x6'x2' hole and then get a 12'x16' waterproof tarp and lay it in the hole. Make sure the neighbors know you're not burying someone. See picture of waterproof tarp below.


Can I (and should I) remove old unused electrical wiring?

There's no problem, conceptually, with removing wiring that doesn't do anything. But your problem isn't the should I, it's the can I.

So to answer your question: Yes, feel free to remove it.

But you have to figure out how to squeeze your arms behind plaster walls and pull staples. :(


Should I replace ALL the fuses in plugs?

Originally, in the UK after BS1363 was introduced, there were 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, and 13A fuses but nowadays mostly 3,5 and 13 are used/available.

The plug fuse is to protect the wire between plug and appliance, it is not primarily intended to protect the appliance (which can have it's own fuse or other protections).

So the choice of fuse principally depends on the diameter of the wires between plug and appliance.

However there is nothing wrong with choosing a lower fuse capacity that will also protect the appliance to some degree.


Proper technique to adding a wire to existing pigtail

It doesn't really matter how the wires were before.  The wire nut is gonna reshape the wires when you crank down on it!
The #1 blunder with wire nuts is being too much of a softie and being afraid to use the nut to reshape the wires.  You have to!  If you don't, the wires won't mesh firmly, you won't have good contact, and the connection will overheat, arc and start a fire.
A properly done nut should pass a "pull test" -- hold the nut and yank on each wire, one at a time.
If a nut fails a "pull test" then it's either a problem with technique, not tightening enough, not lining up the wires evenly, or using the wrong nut - i.e. using a wire nut right near the extremes on its bell curve.  Go up or down a size, please!
If somebody's going for "tape" to keep wirenuts from falling apart, they usually think they are doing a great job securing it, actually they have a bad connection to begin with that is likely to melt and burn up from arcing.  The job isn't to physically hold the wires together, it's to electrically do that.


Probably you can. The picture is indeed very blurry. You'll need a biggish screwdriver, and a wrench. You hold the screw steady with the screwdriver while loosening the nut, then turn the screwdriver a bit (don't go crazy) and then hold it and retighten the nut. Having a gauge installed and checking the pressure when nothing is drawing water, but also when things are will give some insight as to how well it's working (sometimes "low perceived pressure" and "PRV not working as it should" are related.)


Depending on how un-level, and the sub-floor material/condition, one option would be to use self-leveling compound.  You pour it over the entire floor, it "finds" level (it has a viscosity that allows it to flow until it begins to harden) and let it set up.  And Voila!  level subfloor.


How to test ground/neutral without outlets?

You can use the tester below.  If you touch one probe to the hot and the other to neutral or ground and the bulb should light.

If hot-to-ground lights but not hot-to-neutral the neutral is open. Vice versa for open ground. If you get nothing lighting either both neutral and ground are open or there's no power.

If hot-to-neutral and neutral-to-ground light, hot and neutral are reversed.

If neutral-to-ground and ground-to-hot light, but hot-to-neutral doesn't light, hot and ground are reversed.

http://byramlabs.com/store/images/hi-res/SPE-et-201a.gif

It's a little complicated. Since there's no outlet hooked up you should probably just test to make sure the black-to-white and black-to-green light the light, if not there's a problem further down the line.

I mostly use this kind of tester to see which wires are hot in old work with cloth covered wires that you can't tell which color is which anymore.

It's also a handy tool to have to test all the wires in a box to make sure there's no power in any of them before you start touching them with your hands.


You are probably just going to have to try them.  Technically, as long as the frig is a somewhat standard size, it should handle them both.  Get the generator running good for a couple of minutes.  Using heavy duty cords that are no longer than necessary, plug in the A/C unit first.  How well does the generator handle it. Has the voltage dropped any?  Has the RPM dropped any significant amount?  If things seem ok then plug in the second unit.  See if it will frig run.  Do the checks on the generator again.  Try to get a wattage and amp draw on both units and work the math.  The one place where you will more likely have trouble, which is unlikely to happen, they both try to start at the very same time.  Good Luck. P.


One 3" screw per available stud through the top rail is usually adequate unless specific conditions warrant more. For long cabinets, one every second stud is probably fine.

For your specific example, one screw is fine assuming additional anchoring to adjacent cabinets or end walls. If you find that things don't seem secure, add one low as well.


The only way to verify is to check the meter over a time period (at least an hour, longer is better) with everything shut off. If the meter changes, then something else is drawing power.


Many suppliers offer standard doors with 32" x 84" and 36" x 84" slabs. See for example these ProVia specs. The best solution is to find a door supplier that will sell and install an 84" door.

Yes, it is possible to reframe for a smaller door but the cost and complexity will go up dramatically. And the end result is unlikely to be architecturally pleasing. To a limited extent we can cover up the shorter framing with molding. But we would be talking about a 6-7" molding: 86" original RO minus 80" new FO. Don't do it. Put the money into a more spacious entry door. Your taller friends will thank you.


Should I be concerned about power leakage through a Z-wave switch?

I don't think there are any real safety concerns - a lot of fancy light switches work this way, and many have the proper safety approvals, which they presumably wouldn't be able to get if it was dangerous.

Mostly it's just an annoyance when you have lights that do light up with the tiny amount of power they allow through.  If that bothers you, the only solution is to replace it with a switch that requires or optionally uses the neutral - and if necessary rewire so the neutral is at the switch box.

The only concern I can think of is that the circuit is never fully off, even when the switch is off.  So if you are working on the circuit (like replacing the light fixture), you need to turn it off at the breaker.  That's something you should always do anyways in case the switch is wired wrong, or some idiot turns it on while you are working.


I think the better approach is to build a thicker gravel base, and use less concrete for the pad. Backfill with gravel, in layers, compacting between each 4"-6" layer.

I'm not sure you're aware of how much concrete you'll need for your proposed 12" thick pad. See this: http://www.calculator.net/concrete-calculator.html. Your 4'x4'x12" pad will use 27 bags of concrete, nearly a ton, if buying pre-mixed. I think building a thicker base, and then pouring a 4" or 6" concrete pad, with some rebar mesh, is a better/easier approach.

Your plan is solid, but I'd add several things to is:

Definitely use a rebar mesh.
Put a 6mil vapor barrier into the gravel, to prevent it sucking all the moisture out of your concrete pad.
Add a release agent to your form, it will be easier to remove it.
Make sure your pad is not connected to the house foundation, especially if the soil freezes in the winter in your area.


I would start with the GFCI by shutting off the breaker, opening the receptacle, disconnecting all the wires, separating all the wires, making sure no one would accidentally touch them, then turning the breaker back on. If I got lucky and the breaker didn't trip, I would hook everything there back together except for the GFCI itself and test the breaker again. If the breaker still trips when all the wires in the GFCI receptacle are disconnected, I'd close up that receptacle, and test the other devices similarly until finding the source of the problem. If there are a lot of wires in any receptacle being tested I would use masking tape to label them and draw a diagram showing where each goes. I've learned this the hard way.


Coupling two 15 Amp circuit breaker for 20 Amp

Paralleling is NOT Allowed
You can't do this (except under very limited circumstances that don't apply to your situation). The problem (ignoring the code violation) is that if one of those wires breaks (disconnected at any point between device and breaker) then all of the current will flow on one wire, which is not safe as it would put all 20A on one wire. If the wire that breaks is a neutral wire then things are even worse because then the breaker will never trip because it is protecting the hot wire with the assumption that the neutral will carry the same current as the hot wires. (In a 240V-only circuit, the neutral carries the difference between the hot wires - as little as "0", but in a 120V circuit it carries the same as the hot.)
You also must NOT simply replace the 15A breaker with a 20A breaker. Almost definitely the existing wire is 14 AWG, rated for 15A, and not 12 AWG (or larger) rated for 20A. So upsizing the breaker without upsizing the wire will also be a real fire hazard (and code violation).
The only real solution is to replace the wire and the breaker (i.e., a new circuit) or to find an oven that is rated to run on a 15A circuit.


new electrical outlets and switch pop breaker

Are you located in Canada? Was the tiny tab broken between the two gold screws on the receptacles?


Is an extra 1 W that significant with LED bulbs?

There are two completely different thermal objectives
First, don't set other stuff on fire.  That's decided by the thermal insulation of the fixture (think: thick insulation in down lights) and limits the size (in actual wattage) of any bulb, but it's mainly aimed at incandescents.  Incandescent bulbs love hot places and work better there.
A fixture succeeds at this goal if it has plenty of insulation and creates a little "oven" for the incandescent to burn in.
Second, let the LED keep cool.  The LED cannot tolerate high temperature - neither at the LED proper or the electronic driver.  Its worst worst enemy is itself: even with their good efficiency, still nearly 85% of its actual wattage is turning into heat at the LED or driver.  The  heat will cause premature failure of the LED.
A fixture succeeds at this goal if it provides an easy way for heat to be convected away from the bulb location.
These objectives are at best unrelated, and at worst conflicting. For instance a well-insulated, embedded-in-ceiling downlight might protect from incandescents but cook LEDs.  An antiquey lamp with "lamp chimneys" might work great to convection-cool LEDs, but with incandescents, scorch the ceiling above it.
The fixture's LED limit applies to the second thermal objective.  It is saying "Above 9 watts, we can't guarantee we can keep that LED cool enough for it to have a long life".