Was my water softener hooked up correctly?

I can't tell from the picture which is the inlet and outlet, so I will make the assumption it's not hooked up backwards..

However, there are a few things I see that I don't like:

The hole cut in the drywall is pretty unprofessional
There is a shut-off valve in the wall - which means you need an access panel. If the installer added that there, he's incompetent. If it was there before, he probably should have highly suggested to you he moved it out -- if he also did the plumbing (if he cut the hole as you said, then I suspect so) then this would have not been much extra work.
The overflow on the brine tank doesn't go anywhere (the black barbed elbow coming out the side). I have seen at least two basements who had a couple inches of water (ruining carpet, etc) due to a failed $10 shut-off float valve in the brine tank.

Yes you can fix the drywall, but don't cover the valve (or leave an access panel). The valve has the potential to leak, and doing that in the wall is bad. You may also need to shut it off at some point (eg, to disconnect the softener). The best option would be to replumb the valve so it's not in the wall.
Sorry I don't know enough details about this particular model or brand to answer specific questions about your model. See if you can find the manual, especially the installer's manual. A quick google search turns up some promising results.
You can get hardness test strips to check the hardness before and after. There's actually some fairly complex chemistry involved in "testing water" (which, frankly, most water treatment companies don't fully understand), and I could go on in a lot of detail about fully testing .. but I'm not even sure that's what you're asking about so I won't get into it.

To set up your softener correctly, you basically need to know the hardness of the water. It looks like your softener probably has a flow meter in it so it automatically recharges based on usage; some of the more basic models recharge based on a schedule and so you need to have a rough idea of your average daily usage as well to know how often to recharge them.
Softeners are pretty easy to maintain. Make sure there's salt in the brine tank. Every 10 years, you need to rebed the media in the filter. Make sure nothing is leaking, and that it's recharging (usually it does this during the night, anywhere from every day to once a week, though could be less if you use very little water).


Replacing 2-prong outlets in basement - existing wiring has two hot wires, one neutral?

MultiWire Branch Circuit
What you have is a MultiWire Branch Circuit, or MWBC. That is a neat trick that lets you get double the total power, with only 50% more wire (3 wires instead of 2). If you look at your outlets, you should see that the tab on the hot side which normally connects the top and bottom receptacles has been removed. That separates them into two separate circuits as far as the hot wire, but they share the neutral on the other side. In fact, the neutral only carries the difference between the two hots instead of the sum of the two hots, provided the two breakers involved are on separate poles. You can verify that the two hots are on separate poles by checking the voltage between them. You should have a nominal voltage of 240V between the hots with 120V between each hot and neutral. If you get 0V between the two hots and 120V between each hot and neutral then you have a BIG problem.
CORRECTION Rereading your description, it appears that instead of a split in each duplex receptacle (tab removed) the split here is some duplex receptacles on one half of the MWBC and some on the other. The principle is the same and the GFCI issue is the same.
The trick to making an MWBC work is landing the two hots on opposite poles. A typical circuit breaker panel will alternate between the two poles. This allows for 240V breakers for hot water heaters, dryers and other large appliances. It also allows for an MWBC. Note that if the two hots are placed on two breakers that happen to be on the same pole (e.g., regular breakers but not next to each other or 2 1/2-size breakers that replaced one regular breaker) then you will end up with:

0V between the hots (not in and of itself a problem, but a symptom - and an easy way to check that an MWBC is correctly wired)
Current on neutral is sum instead of difference - this is the real problem as you could have 40A going on a 20A rated wire.

In addition, an MWBC must have common shutoff so that you can't turn off (in your example) the black wire to work on a receptacle without also turning off the red wire. When you turn off a breaker to work on a circuit, you normally are trying to get everything you might touch at the time to be dead - so turning off the pair of breakers at the same time is critical. Using a typical 240V breaker - which is really a pair of 120V breakers but designed to trip at the same time - is the easiest way to do that.
GFCI vs. MWBC
The problem with GFCI on MWBC is that GFCI depends on "all hot" == "all neutral". Since most ordinary 15A and 20A receptacles are NOT on MWBC, most (possible all) combination GFCI/receptacles do not support MWBC. One reason is that a typical duplex receptacle has room for 4 wires (not counting ground): incoming hot, incoming neutral, outgoing hot, outgoing neutral. But those same 4 connections can instead be used for incoming/outgoing hot 1, incoming/outgoing hot 2, incoming neutral, outgoing neutral - and you have a setup similar to that. That works because the incoming and outgoing wires (e.g., 2 wires for hot 1) can be connected together.
A GFCI can not have the incoming and outgoing wires connected together. A GFCI needs to compare the outgoing (usually called "LOAD" on a GFCI) hot and neutral. Mixing in the incoming power (from the panel) messes that up. So there just aren't enough connections to make an MWBC work.
However, there is a simple solution: Use a breaker instead. Replace the existing double-breaker (it should be a double-breaker, but it might be two separate breakers which is unsafe as noted above) with a double-breaker with GFCI. That is designed to handle an MWBC or any other 240V load and provide GFCI protection. It is a little different to hook up as it connects to neutral as well as the 2 hots, unlike a regular breaker that only connects to the hot wires. You must use the right type of breaker - post a picture of the existing breakers and the pros will figure out what you need.


To get air entrained concrete similar to that which you'd get from a ready mix delivery, you'll need to add an air entraining agent to your mix.

Without getting in to serious mix design, for all practical purposes, a 4:2:1 (stone : sand : cement) mix will likely suffice for a walkway.

If you're really bothered about cracking, include a layer of smaller gauge reinforcement (eg A142) as an anti-crack mesh.


Can I use a different size post for gate than the fence?

Sure.  Just make sure the face where the fence attaches, is in line with the 4x4s.


Well, it shows a temperature of 170f which may be ok if that is what you want delivered.
As for pressure it shows 15psi, this could be incoming pressure or the pressure in a closed system.
The red arrow or indicator is most likely showing the max pressure recommended.
You should get the manual for your boiler and check the functions and settings before trying to change anything.


Framing near rough in plumbing and sump pit

Your wall plate can easily span that rough-in box. That's not a concern. What is maybe a concern is the location of the rough-in. Doesn't look quite right for a standard tub or shower. The builder may have expected a slightly larger room.

I'm not aware of any rules regarding clearance around a sump pit. You'd obviously want the lid to function properly (even after drywall and any trim) and space for any plumbing. Other than that, squeeze away. Looks like there's plenty of room to the other sides anyway.


How to lay last row of Hardwood Flooring under an undercut the Baseboard?

Ok I'll keep guessing.

If this is nail down with no tongue and groove then you slide the piece in and then use a glazer's bar to pry it back out while you nail it.

If this is tongue and groove nail down or glue down then

quarter round
or micro-round
or cut the tongue off the last piece and glue to avoid face nail.
or cut the tongue off, create a biscuit, glue the biscuit and pry the last piece back onto the biscuit and glue this piece down to avoid face nail.

If you don't want 1/4 or micro round your option seems to be either 3 or 4.


Can I safely hang a 17KG TV on a drywall in the UK?

Yes. Google tells me that model is compatible with VESA mounting.

For heavy screens, be sure to buy a mount that is rated sufficiently, and is attached to the structure of your wall. (So for drywall covered stud-framed walls, you'd want to be sure to attach to the structural wooden studs inside the wall, not just the gypsum wallboard.)

You can use a stud finder to help locate the studs within the wall.


Anyone know if there are any large chains that carry HT Armaflex?

Mike, check out your local HVAC professional supply houses.  I didn't try it, but often times the manufacture's web site with have links to suppliers also.


What are the consequences of building without a permit?

This wil depend on where exactly you live. There're many possible outcomes, including the following:

nothing bad happens
you can be fined
the house can be demolished and you'll have to pay for that
you'll be forced to go through the "proper channels" later
you'll face minor or major problems when you try to sell/lease/insure the house

Also don't forget that the codes can impose some limitations that are specific to your exact location. For example, the maximum height or pressure onto the ground could need approval from some certified state organization.

So if you ignore the procedure the following could happen. You will not know that you house will be limited in electric power or pressure onto the ground (since that data is not obviously available until you contact the organization responsible for that) and you'll only face problems when it is too late - so you will be unable to heat your house properly or it will excert too much pressure and collapse and even damage the surrounding buildings. Or your neighbours might file a lawsuit agains you because your house casts too dense shadow on their land.

The bottom line is - consult a qualified specialist in your location. Building without permit might be a Very Bad Idea™.


I believe that this style of faucet is tightened from the top. The faucet will be held on to the monoblock with a grub screw somewhere on the tap (probably requires a small hex key to loosen).

The faucet should then lift away revealing the fixing that you loosen to remove the c-clamp below.

Edit: Following your edit to add the picture from above, looks like my initial suspicion was wrong. Does it have a pull out nozzle?


Can I install a second layer of drywall on my bathroom ceiling to refresh the surface?

I don’t see any problem, with multiple changes I believe it is a better way to go. Even using an electric blower to move cellulose when I pulled it down there was still a mess. The others we did were overlays.
In a bathroom is 1 place I suggest using hot mud or setting compound for those new to Sheetrock. Hot mud is affected less by moisture than standard mud. Get the 1 hour stuff not the 15 minute and when it starts to set, toss anything that's left in the pan and mix a new batch.


Upgrading to smart light switches but have only one neutral wire in the box

The wiring as presented makes no sense.

To start with, we can determine the upper left Romex goes to the light now controlled by the left dimmer.  The upper right /3 Romex red wire provides switched-hot for that lamp, and its black wire is always-hot for onward loads. The lower left Romex is presumably supply. (it's remotely possible the /3 includes supply and the lower left is onward.)

The smart switch on the left is a customer of neutral, not a provider of it.  So the fact that its neutral wire goes only to the switch, simply makes no sense at all. How does the switched-hot obtain neutral, then?

Here's what happened

We get a lot of newbies who are trying to install a smart switch, but it needs neutral and the old switch did not have neutral.  They say "Well, I saw in the back of the box where back in the 1960s, the builders left a bunch of spare neutrals (on the off-chance that humans would ever invent smart switches), so I just grabbed one of those spares." They're not spares. Nobody installs unnecessary wires.

Normally the newbie posts here, saying "why doesn't this work?" and we fix it.  Often instead, he tries random things until he trips across something that "works" (i.e. not safe).  I believe this newbie was up in the lamp box (where this /3 cable goes) and discovered if he shorts all the neutrals to ground, voila everything works.  Done!

How to fix it

First you'll need to learn what a pigtail is.  If you notice how 2 of the blacks in the 4-black bundle are short wires going to the switches,  those are pigtails.  Your neutral bundle will look like that too.

Buy 12" of white THHN wire. Probably simplest to use solid #12. Cut it in half for two 6" pigtails.  You'll also need a red or tan wire nut, as 5 wires is too many for a yellow nut.

Now remove the existing white wire from that existing smartswitch, and put it back in the existing neutral bundle where it belongs, and also add your two white pigtails.  You'll need the red wire nut for this.

One of the pigtails goes to the existing switch.  The other goes to your new smart switch (if you're not ready yet, cover the end and bared bits with some wraps of tape).

At this point, voila, things should work.   Except we're not done.  We also need to find where (presumably the other end of the /3 cable) the last guy tied together neutral and ground, and we need to separate that.  It might not be in that location but you gotta find it!  It won't bite you until a second problem appears, but then, it'll kill you.


Can I splice a clock cord to a lamp cord so I only have to use one part of the power outlet

What you are proposing is unsafe and unnecessary. Use one of these:

It's called a cube tap. This will be much safer than an amateur cord splice.


How to attach a new sill to an existing concrete foundation

The anchor bolts need to go well into the block, preferably at least 8" in. You should place the anchor bolts in the head joints of the 4" solid run.  No need to drill holes in the solid block. Worst case cut the solid block where you need to and set the bolt in the joint created in cut block. They should coincide in a hollow place in the rows of block below often enough to work in a bolt about every 4' maybe slightly more if need be depending on your seismic area. Masonry supply houses carry anchor bolts 16" or 24" long. In my opinion, you should use a minimum of 16", again, depending on your seismic area. There are other types of clips that will do the same as a anchor bolt.


How should I reattach my patio door weather strip?

Problem was that the door was installed improperly. This was the non sliding door, so the felt should have been in groove sealed against the wall, not in the groove which the weather strip attaches to.

The felt was stopping the weather strip from going in properly. Flipped the door and presto, the weather strip hammers in  perfectly on the unfelted groove.


What could cause a chainsaw chain to stop moving?

My saw has a brake that can protect me in case of a kickback. It sits in front of my left hand. Push forward to engage, pull back to release.

Or it could be a maintenance issue:

Do you fill the bar oil when you fill the gas?
Do you clean the machine after using it? Including the drive gear and the slot in the edge of the bar?
Do you loosen the chain when putting it away? As the chain cools it contracts, and you don't want to let it get overtight. I store it loose; snug it up before using; adjust after 5-10 minutes use, when it's warm; the release when putting away.
If you remove the bar & chain, does the drive gear spin?


Adding wall light switch for future ceiling fan light option

Number one thing, I'd mark the reserved wires in the switch box and the ceiling box so when you open things up in the future it's clear what's what.  I also write myself notes inside the cover plate with a sharpie.

I'd connect the grounds and neutrals at both ends and cap the hots with wire nuts.  I'd not put a switch in the switchbox, I'd leave a blank there.  (Use Decora style switches.)

If you ever put the light and separate switch in, it will be easy; if you never do, it will be safe; if you decide to do something different that you haven't even thought of now, it will be easy to see what's there and available.

If you really want the maximum flexibility you could run conduit from the switch box to the fixture, depending on the framing and the layout it might not be all that hard with ENT (the blue stuff).


Can you install grouted floor tile over padding?

In almost all cases this is a no.  There are waterproofing systems you can use but not flooring pad.  When you lay your tile the pad will move a little and cause issues.  In essence with a pad you are creating a giant floating tile floor.

Note: To reduce sound from the floor you want to do two things.

Build up the subfloor.  Adding an inch of plywood plus 1/2 inch durarock will take out a good % of any sound.
Add insulation in the cavity below floor.

The padding you are thinking about leaving might reduce sound by 1%.  Sound is due to weight disbursement - generally speaking.  A 200 pound person running around will make sound.  10 pounds of padding underneath them will have no affect.  I am sure someone can comment on the science of this.  But the two things you want to do are create a buffer (pad is thin and almost no buffer) and keep your joists from moving (pad does nothing at all there).


Harbor Breeze Fan lights go out after 20 minutes

In modern fans there is a current limiter, these devices limit the wattage of the lamps and they do go bad, I have had to bypass them in my personal fans but when on the job they have to be replaced in this case it is cheaper to replace the fan. Some are electronic 3 wire and some are simple 2 wire from what I have found. If changing to a lower wattage lamp won't fix it the current limiter is bad.


How much weight can single-track shelving mounted on brick wall hold?

If your brick is solid and does not seem to be crumbly (like in +100 year old house) then I would always suggest and even my self use and Anchor bolt - In some countries called a robolt - These are on of the best load and pull rated bolts. And I always try to use these bolts because you can never be sure about who will put what on a shelf. Using these bolts if installed correctly(not difficult) are rock solid.

The downside to using these bolts is that you need to drill very deep into the brick. 8-10cm for a small bolt.
The upside though is that it passed the monkey test1.

All you have to do is:

drill the correct diameter holes into to the wall as straight as possible in the correctly marked locations.
Remove the bolts mechanism, feed the threaded rod through the rail and replace the bolt mechanism on the other side of the rail.
Repeat at key location on the rail.
Place against wall and insert all bolts as evenly as possible.
They sould slide in easily but you apply more pressure to get it in there.
Tighten each bolt until you feel it getting harder turn the wrench.
You want to get it tight enough where you feel enough pressure that will make you change your standing stance. That should do it.
By this point it should pretty rock solid!

And because this is for your home and not a building site you would finish it off with a bolt "nut" cover. This will give you some extra points with the wife for paying attention to the finer details. You can get various shapes, colours and finishes. Or just paint over them.

Using anchor bolts makes you only have to worry about the bearing load of the brackets and shelves you use. But it is obvious the shelf max load should not exceed the anchors load capacity to be safe.

I have seen shelves that collapsed because the bracket could not hold the weight but these bolts stayed put!

Disclaimer: Just a bit of humour but entirely factual.

1Monkey Test

  It is a test that is taken out on shelves , hooks or other newly
  installed equipment that will be used to hang things off. The test is
  simple. Hang on the object and wiggle like a monkey. If it does not
  rip/pull out / bend or create damage to the area around it. It is
  monkey proof and guarantees to carry ridiculous load. Tested in South Africa in camping sites near nature reserves on outside fixtures


How can I replace the roller mechanism on this door?

Ikea makes a roll front door cabinet.  I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but it may be a start...


Should existing drywall and floor be cut to install a partition wall

You're asking a simple question and I'll provide a simple answer but in order to meet building codes this may get a little complicated for you.
Yes- You will need to remove drywall and attach the framing of the new wall to the existing framing. There shouldn't be a need to cut through the subfloor. The baseplate or footer of the framed wall can attach directly to the subfloor.
However, beyond that it gets more complex. You will need  to get a permit and check your local codes. Constructing a separate room will need to meet codes regarding ingress and egress, electrical (light switches, outlets) and possibly other requirements such as a closet if you want it to be classified as a bedroom. You will also need to think about heating and cooling which may require adding ductwork or baseboards. In other words it's not as simple as just building a wall.


The usual method is to use a jig to drill rows of holes,

then use plastic clips that press into the holes and support the shelf.

There are many variations, including metal versions, some including holes for screws.

You could use dowels but that would look slightly less neat perhaps.


How can I fit an oversize retaining wall base adjacent to sidewalk?

I think you're asking about width, and not depth. I'd simply excavate an inch or three under the sidewalk and fill it with your substrate, then set the wall tight to the sidewalk.

If this is not possible, build the base as wide as is practically feasible and compact it well. It's unlikely that you'll have problems with a three-course wall.


No problem up sizing and this is typically done if the run is longer than normal to minimize friction losses.

I have several HRV sheet metal runs that go from 7 up to 8" where the runs were quite long.

If you push your question out to the extreme end of the spectrum and imagine hooking up to an infinite size pipe then you've really just put the pipe end outside of your structure.


Swimming pool filters clogging with a lot of organic matter

The main difference is that the sand filter traps larger particles by allowing them to settle to the bottom of the filter tank. This gets the bulk of your problematic stuff out of the water, but it doesn't necessarily take care of everything in the water either. Sand filters can allow the pool to become cloudy because the particles are too fine to settle.

Sand filters also require a periodic backwash. You change the mode of the sand filter to backwash and, when you engage the pump, the water turns a giant paddle at the bottom of the tank. This stirs the sand up and ejects it via the water moving from the pump into your waste line. You then have to follow this with a rinse, to push any remaining floating materials out of the tank, and settle (also a waste ejection).


Is solvent fitted 2” pvc safe for use with drinking water?

PVC is safe to use for drinking water. In fact it is getting tough to find non plastic means for water delivery at a reasonable cost. PVC & CPVC have been used for many decades larger sizes that city water systems use have o ring or rubber seals this allows the pipe some flex but I don't think rubber starts being used until 4" . is it safe yes, follow the instructions so it can cure. Since it is only cold water you don't need cpvc that was designed for hot water. You would never use ABS drain wast only on a supply and that may be what is causing the confusion.


How do we properly insulate a loft ceiling with 2" by 4" without loosing space?

Let me start by mentioning that you're tempted to skimp out on meeting code for insulation, I wouldn't recommend it. NY gets coooooold! To insulate the roof deck of your vaulted ceilings to code, here's probably your most space-efficient option:

3.5" of closed-cell spray foam between the trusses (R-24) + 5" XPS board above the roof sheathing (R-25) + 0.5" drywall covering the spray foam

With this approach, you don't lose any height (assuming there was previously drywall there that you've since removed during the demo). Of course, it will require removing your roofing material to add the foam boards, which is probably going to be a big expensive nightmare if the roof isn't already in need of replacement. Here's probably the next-best option for meeting code and losing as little space as possible:

3.5" of closed-cell spray foam between the trusses (R-24) + 4" Polyiso board on the inside (R-28) + 0.5" drywall covering the foam boards

You lose 4.5" with this approach. Not terrible.


Possible to oil my Furnace Fan Motor myself and with 3-in-1 Motor Oil?

3-in-1 will work fine. Since I can't see exactly what your talking about in relation to your '2 orange rubber plugs' most of the time you do remove said plugs and oli until it's full.

Here is actually a video that better explains it in detail: https://youtu.be/UKoK_U_GKZI

Hope this helps!


Small leak has appeared in a PVC drain pipe joint, how to seal?

It looks like they put the primer down without the glue.   Clean area, reprime it, get pvc glue, put glue around and jam it in.
If the length is not great enough to jam in - it looks a little short or something else moved - then cut about a foot up buy a double female straight joint in that size and if you made your cut straight you can probably use the exact same piece!   The joint will give you a good 1-1.5 inches.   You can always get 16" in that size (4?) if you don't want to go back to the store.
This is not a location that normally would EVER leak, so obviously installed wrong.   Should be a 30 minute fix, if that.


How do I wire half hot receptacle to 2 switches?

Three-Way Switches
You have standard toggle switches. You need three-way switches. A standard switches on/off. A three-way switch switches one common wire to alternate between two other traveler wires. Pretty much any standard toggle switch can be replaced with a 3-way switch - regular, Decora, etc. The most important thing is running 14/3 (or 12/3 on a 20A circuit) between the switches instead of 14/2, but you did that.
There are a few different ways that these switches can be wired. This is specific to your particular configuration. Note that there is no standard for where the screws are on switches! On a standard switch, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which screw. on a 3-way switch, it does matter. The instructions should make it clear, but pretty universal is that there will be different colors - one screw (= common) silver and two screws brass (= travelers) (or vice versa). I will refer to them as common and travelers, as that is what matters, no location or color.

Original switch box:

Old Black = hot = common screw on replacement 3-way switch.

Old Red = switched hot = white wire coming from new switch box.

Old White = neutral = still passes through, as currently connected to other neutrals.

New Black = traveler = traveler screw on replacement 3-way switch.
New Red = traveler = traveler screw on replacement 3-way switch.

New switch box. Replace standard switch with 3-way switch as follows:

Black = traveler screw

Red = traveler screw

White = common screw

White vs. Neutral
There is one more complication. Neutral and white are normally the same thing. A switch loop is an exception. In recent versions of the NEC, most switch boxes need to have neutral in a box, for new work. With a regular switch loop (one switch), the solution is to use /3 cable instead of /2, so that you have Black = hot, Red = switched hot, White = neutral. But with a 3-way switch, you need 3 wires so that means going to /4 cable, which is not nearly as common. If this were an existing circuit then this would not be an issue. But the 3-way 2nd-switch is brand new here, so grandfathering does not solve the problem.
I think you are OK here because one of the switch boxes in the circuit has neutral. But I am not 100% certain. If it turns out that you need a neutral in both boxes then you will either need /4 cable or use smart switches instead.
Assuming that you are allowed to use white as a common switched-hot wire, then you need to mark both ends of the wire (e.g., colored, but not green or white, electrical tape) to make it clear that this white wire is not neutral.


How to access the ceiling over an indoor swimming pool

Might want to check with your local equipment rental companies as they may have, or know where to direct you to get a transportable Cherry Picker. These machines are not as easily transported as a vertical scissor lift, but can be stationed on the side of the pool, or even in the pool and could reach the area that needs to be repaired. Most cherry picker's have stabilizing legs that can be deployed to help aid with uneven ground if placing inside the pool is needed.

Otherwise, Scaffolding can be installed in the pool with water or not. Make sure that the equipment is approved to be installed in water by the manufacturer, and the rental company, before taking action. You'll also want to consult with professionals what they suggest be done to make sure they are installed correctly, and securely. If putting them up in the water, you'll want to double check that they have been cleaned before installation.


Fix 40 kg TV to plasterboard and OSB wall

Assuming that "plasterboard on OSB" means that the studs were first fully covered with OSB, then that was dressed up with plasterboard for a nicer finish, you have a very sturdy wall! I just build a storage shed using 3/4" (~18mm) plywood as the floor. I expect it to hold 100s of kilos at the contact points for each of the shelving units.
If this is how your wall was built, you've got the added advantage of being able to put the TV anywhere you want because with the proper bolts, you don't really even need to worry about hitting a stud, that 18mm OSB should hold your TV without a second thought. Of course, hitting a stud is an added bonus, and will take the proper sheet-metal screws to get a good grip into the steel studs.

If you're referring to OSB on the outside of the building and drywall on the inside, then this advice goes out the window, use sheet-metal screws into the studs as Ecnerwal suggested. In either case, you have nothing to worry about.


Is it important to use special fasteners in treated wood for non-structural applications?

The hot-dipped galvanized requirement isn't for load, it's to prevent corrosion.  For less load, you can get smaller nails.  However, if you don't use the hot-dipped galvanized, then the chemicals in the PT lumber will cause a reaction with the metals in the nails and they will corrode much faster than if the nail was installed in non-PT lumber.  Here's some more info:

http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/PTWoodFAQs.html


There may be some challenges installing the meter you have selected in a code compliant permanent installation.

Regarding the connection of the meter's voltage leads, using #12 - #18 wire:

Tap the terminal screws on the receptacle? This one is a non-starter.  You'll be violating the listing of the device and the bad connection is very likely to cause serious trouble.
Wire nut pigtails?  The manufacturer's documentation for wire nuts will explicitly specify the wire combinations for which it is approved.  There are large wire nuts that work with two #6's and a #12.  I don't think you'll find one rated for two #6's and a #18.  However be advised that making a good splice with a wire nut does take some skill.
Split bolt?  As mentioned in the comments a tap and run split bolt connection is very secure.  Again you'll have to use a split bolt rated for #6 run and #12 tap, and I doubt you'd find one rated for #6 run - #18 tap.  Skinning the #6 and insulating the splice again takes some skill.
Distribution block?  A distribution block or terminal block rated to handle the amperage of the circuit and with terminals rated to accept #6 and #12 conductors will work well and is easy to use.  It will take up some additional space inside the enclosure.  You can even find block rated to handle 65 amps with terminals that handle #6 and #18 wire.  Still, I'd use #12 for other reasons (read on...)

A similar solution mentioned in the comments is a multi-tap connector like the Polaris Insul-tap.  It is like a distribution block but fully insulated so it need not be mounted.

Subpanel?  This is a creative solution, and an exepensive one, it avoids some code issues but may raise others, I'd say that's a whole separate question.

Another creative solution - technically taped solder joints are still permitted in the NEC.  Nobody seriously considers doing this for building wiring any more but I have to say when you come across these in old buildings, they have stood the test of time.  I wouldn't suggest reviving this old method for power wiring.

Another solution would be a crimp on C-tap for #6 run / #12 tap.  This makes an excellent connection, and although it has to be taped like a split bolt, it's easier because it's less lumpy.  Although the C-taps are not expensive, the crimp tool that you use with them is quite expensive.

If you keep the meter voltage leads short - under 18" - and use #12 wire, I believe you can use NEC 210.20(4) Exception #1 (C) to tap the 50A circuit without adding an overcurrent protection device (breaker or fuse) to the meter leads.  The meter would be an individual, non-receptacle outlet.

  Exception No. 1: Tap conductors shall have an ampacity
  suffıcient for the load served. In addition, they shall have an
  ampacity of not less than 15 for circuits rated less than 40
  amperes and not less than 20 for circuits rated at 40 or 50
  amperes and only where these tap conductors supply any of
  the following loads:

  (a) Individual lampholders or luminaires with taps extending
  not longer than 450 mm (18 in.) beyond any portion
  of the lampholder or luminaire.

  (b) A luminaire having tap conductors as provided in
  410.117.

  (c) Individual outlets, other than receptacle outlets,
  with taps not over 450 mm (18 in.) long.

  (d) Infrared lamp industrial heating appliances.

  (e) Nonheating leads of deicing and snow-melting
  cables and mats.

Another exception

  Exception No. 2: Fixture wires and flexible cords shall be
  permitted to be smaller than 14 AWG as permitted by
  240.5.

might allow you to install a second 14-50 receptacle, and make up a flexible cord and plug for the meter voltage leads.  I don't like this idea, but it might be code compliant.

Taking a step back, I might be a bit concerned that the meter in your link is listed and suitable for permanent installation.


Should I choose MDF or plywood for my false stair treads?

If it is MDF or HDF (as opposed to particleboard) then I would choose the fiberboard over ply.

Any surface wear will impact the finish laminate, regardless of the underlying material.
By contrast, MDF/HDF should be more impact resistance, water/mold resistant and uniform in density and composition.

MDF above: more uniform and dense. Particle below, less uniform and dense.


Sealing a small crack in poured concrete foundation

An 1/8 inch crack that is weeping water is a fairly serious fault. Wondering, is the crack displaced or flat?  Regardless, any crack that allows water to seep through means the crack if through the entire wall. Normally I would recommend chiseling a "key" or an inverted "V" into the concrete and patching it with expanding hydrolic cement and coating the crack with a waterproofing rated for up to 4 PSI.  I personally have never used the product you linked to.  What is important is that bonds soundly. I would think it might be worth a try since you intend to do a better fix from the exterior in the spring. Remember, a simple concrete pad ove the area will not fix your problem, the leak is ground water, not a little ice melting on the top of the ground.


Why are my fluorescent lights not working sometimes?

Confirm your wall switch is good. Bad switches can be intermittent.
Turn off the switch and take the tubes back out and
put them back in making sure they're fully snapped in. It's worth a
try. Don't go buy more, but if you have other new tubes try them.
If the lights work for a period of time and go out on their own,
that usually indicates an over-heating ballast - replace the
ballast.
Otherwise, the best test for a ballast is just what you did, try new
tubes. If no luck, replace the ballast.
While replacing the ballast, make sure all of the wires in the
sockets are well connected. Give them each a little tug. If you can't get a
wire to stay in a socket replace the socket, maybe replace all 4.
Fluorescent lights need to be grounded to work properly. Make sure a
ground wire is attached to the fixture. I've seen fluorescent lights, especially in old homes, where the people say they're always replacing tubes, and it's because the fixture isn't grounded.
If you're going to replace the ballast or the entire fixture
consider going with an electronic ballast maybe even T8 size tubes.
Amazon sells the smaller clips you'd need for a retrofit to T8 U-Bent tubes - ASIN
B00A3WGR0W.


Spring/Coil tool that will add pressure/force to support holding object in place

Use wooden shims.  You can use two of them (pointing opposite directions) to get a nice flat surface, and if they are not thick enough on their own, use more scrap wood to tighten the gap.

This solution is easy to tap into place and later remove with a small hammer, will give you as little or as much clamping as you need.

If you need to move this item around a lot, just glue one shim in place (on the metal), so install and removal can be done with one hand.


Should I replace my Pressure Reducing Valve?

I assume you have an expansion tank attached to the cold water line leading into the boiler. I’d check that – if it feels warm all around, it’s membrane is probably faulty and the tank needs to be replaced.


I have a depression in my OSB floor caused by a layer of rot

A 3x3 repair using the technique you describe is just fine, assuming that it's not in a critical location, such as immediately adjacent to the toilet drain opening. If it is, you might find that the stress of the toilet on that spot results in too much flex. In that case, cut the area out and float some lumber under the patch edges and replace the piece.

Otherwise you're unlikely to have a problem. Thinset mortar won't provide much stiffness, but it's certainly hard enough to  do the job.


Adding insulation to basement that already has vapor barrier

Insulation is always installed as such:

Warm side | Vapor/ Moisture barrier | Insulation | Cold side

You ONLY want a moisture barrier between the warm side and the insulation, because warm air holds onto more moisture than cold air, and when warm air meets cold (air, wall, whatever), the air has to let go of that moisture as it cools, forming condensation.  The moisture barrier prevents that moist air from getting into the insulation where cold and warm meet.

If you put insulation on the wrong side of your barrier, the moisture will form in the insulation, and as Shirlock said, if you create TWO layers of barrier, you create a potential moisture trap.


How do you secure electrical outlets in a concrete block wall?

You may be able to secure the boxes with something like these supports

This image shows two supports that need to be separated in the middle.

The support is grasped by one of the short, perpendicular legs.  The longer end of the long leg is slid on an angle into the cavity vertically between the box and the vertical edge of the opening. Then the bottom end of the support (the shorter end of the long piece) is pushed in, slipped down and hooked behind the lower lip of the opening.  The short perpendicular legs then stick out and are wrapped around from the outside edge of the box to the inside. The same is done on the other side.  The box is then locked in place.

This assumes the box has "ears" at top and bottom that prevent the box from being pulled below the face of the wall.


Why aren't my motion detector lights working?

Many models seem to be sensitive to power surges. A lighting storm or frequent episodes of lights flickering have destroyed several of my sensors over the years. Some models have a switch on the detector head. The switch may allow you to test the unit by placing it in test mode. If that option is not available you will have to disassemble the fixture and use a noncontact voltage tester to verify power is present at the fixture.


Is it ok to wire load on the line side of GFCI?

If the GFCI has provisions for multiple wires then yes, if not you may have to get some wire connectors and a couple correctly colored wires and make a pigtail connection.


Wires barely fit in gang box, is this okay? If not, where to get deeper boxes?

One option is to use a single gang mud ring for double gang box.
you can get metal or plastic ones.


Closing in a window opening on a cinderblock wall

You have several issues: 1) proper mortar installation, 2) mortar on face of bricks, 3) contractor’s license.

1) Laying bricks is not just sticking mortar between the bricks. Bricks are embedded into mortar. The bricks should be clean and wetted prior to COVERING the bricks...it’s not acceptable to jam a little mortar between the bricks because it will not bond, will not be watertight and will be susceptible to spalling due to frost, moisture, etc.

2) Mortar must be removed immediately from brick faces or it will stain the face. The only way mortar, that has aged on the face, can be removed is with acid. Using acid will remove the finish and cause the brick to leak (water penetrate into the brick). Then, a strong wind will drive rain into the bricks causing damage from moisture, mold, etc. Also, frost will crack the bricks.

3) I would check with your local Builders Board and see if they are licensed contractors. I doubt it. You can see if they have claims against them and you can file a claim against them. The builders board will investigate and make a determination. I’d call your local Building Code Office.


What would be the best way to reduce low frequency noise coming from neighbour above in apartment

The first thing working against you is that bass is the hardest frequency to dampen. With a wide wavelength, they travel further and induce vibrations in large objects. In short, the usual egg crate foam isn't enough.

The good news is that these are often custom built when created, and a simple Google search for bass traps will yield plenty of instructional details. Most of these are meant for isolating bass within the room that it is generated in. How much success you'll have isolating it in your room will be interesting.

I'd personally start with the top tri-corners of the room, and perhaps the ceiling.

Other options are to try and get the neighbor to install that kind of dampening in his apartment, or to use one of these on the ceiling:


OK - based on picture at the bottom you need to:

extend the trim - marked in yellow
mud/tape/sand pant the area in red all the way up into the top trim

That is the easy option and could look great for years.
The other option is buy trim/pine-board and cut out a triangle so that you form a rectangle where that wall is cracking.   Based on the indention and cracking it looks like the wall above may be sitting on something less stable and moving - that triangle looks awfully out of place and I usually see that on wall over concrete.
Note that if this is moving around seasonally that much you may just need to cover the entire area with something more flexible - wainscoting, planks, etc.


Do I need to turn off my Water Heater when changing my hot and cold bathroom sink flexible water pipes?

The water heater should have an vacuum relief valve, so no siphoning should happen. The water heater is designed to withstand a loss of pressure on the cold side without any problem, no matter if the hot tap is open or not.

Consider this: if you close the main shut-off, this has exactly the same effect if the water was turned upstream from you, on the street, or if the water main burst somewhere, etc. So this poses no hazard to you or your water heater, as these things happen from time to time, and your water heater is designed to handle them.

Just close your main water shut-off, open the taps you are changing water pipes for, both cold and hot, and let the water drain. Hopefully your main water shut-off is operational, and withing a couple of minutes, water stops flowing, then you may proceed. But wait till the water is completely stopped: any trickle may indicate that your main shut-off does not close properly.


Is my plan for a new bathroom lighting and fan circuit code-compliant?

Since you already have a 20A small appliance branch circuit feeding receptacles in the bathroom in question, your plan is fine.  NEC 210.23(C)(3) requires that at least one of the bathroom receptacle outlets is on a 20A bathroom SABC, but still allows additional receptacles to be on a 15A circuit.

  (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number
  of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at
  least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply a bathroom receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits shall have no other outlets.


Why would hot water pipes be smaller than cold water pipes?

Hot water delivery times are highly dependent on the size of the pipe. It will take more than twice as long for hot water to reach the fixture travelling through a 1/2" pipe than a 3/8" pipe (because there is roughly twice as much cold water sitting in the pipe), and more than twice as long through a 3/4" pipe compared to a 1/2" pipe. Thus, using the smallest supply lines possible for hot water plumbing to fixtures will supply hot water much faster, saving water and energy, and making occupants happy.

With cold water supply lines, there's no similar issue. Instead, our only concerns are about supplying enough water for good flow rates, and stable pressure (so output doesn't noticeably fluctuate when someone flushes a toilet, for example). So for the same fixture where a 3/8" hot water supply line makes sense, it also makes sense to use a 1/2" cold water supply line.


How do I properly install a replacement thermostat in my refrigerator?

This is the simplest thermostat you will get. It has 4 pins on it.

2 of which will be GND and Vcc
1 will turn on and off (the compressor and other stuff)
1 will be the sensor.

Easiest way to test which is the sensor and which is the switch will be to test continuity on the pins. Set your multimeter to ohm. Place one probe on GND and the other on one of the 2 suspected pins (senors, switch)

The switch will usually be closed- so no ohm reading (no route)
The sensor will give you some ohm reading (5~50)
GND will give you 0ohm (Short)
Vcc will give you and ohm reading again.(this one can get confused with the sensor.

They should be pretty clearly marked to be honest. Are you sure that the thermostat has not been set to the lowest setting? Maybe the sensor is misinterpreting the thermostat.

The other way to test it is the Live way. This is dangerous so if you do not have gloves and insulated tools, or unsure of the voltage do not attempt this. Have somebody with you to turn off power in case of emergency.

Adjust the thermostat to the lowest level (warmest inside - or like 0/10)
Test voltage on the pins and turn up the thermostat slowly
Keep reading until the voltage goes on or off
Try the next pin the same way.


Will combining roof venting systems cause short cycling?

Your inspector is correct.  Air should enter at the soffit, and exit at either roof vents or a ridge vent.  With the current setup air could be entering either the soffit vents or the roof vents, and exiting either the roof vents or the ridge vent.  Since your soffits are covered with insulation (because there are no baffles), I'd guess that air is entering the roof vents and exiting the ridge vent.  This means only the air near the top of the roof is cycling, which can lead to problems with the roof including a shortened roof life.

In my house there were originally roof vents in the roof above my garage. When they did a reroof they switched to a ridge vent, and as you can see they covered over the old roof vent openings.

On a side note: Inspectors are hired by you, and work for you.  They have no reason to lie or mislead you, since they will not gain in any way from it.   In fact, you can probably trust an inspector more than a random person on the internet. Seeing how you paid the inspector for advice, while I'm doing this for free.


Adding push button to Chamberlain opener

A regular push button either normally closed or open will not work on most modern garage door openers, because the control pad doesn't just short or open the wires. They use resistors or some other mechanism to vary the voltage going back to the motor controller.

You must purchase a Chamberlain compatible push button.


What type of weather stripping for this door?

I'd suggest you remove the old and put in some nice new stuff.

To remove the existing screws, first scratch any paint out of them (possibly with a sturdy knife). Then, using the right size slot screwdriver, you'll be able to remove them. (Firm pressure while turning is often what you need. Failing that, tap the back of the screwdriver with a hammer while turning. Failing that, get out the vise grips and just grab the head and twist.)


Why does my garbage disposal have a 3 way switch?

What you have there is a single pole switch that has been tapped to continue the permanent hot to another source.  Perhaps an outlet or dishwasher.  If you are installing a new dishwasher it will probably have  significantly more amps.  This could become an issue with the old practice of putting the disposal and dishwasher on the same circuit.


How do I fix scratches from sanding drywall?

Wet Sanding
If you want a smooth surface, you could try wet sanding it.  Purchase a drywall sanding sponge (~$4.00 at any home improvement store), and use that for the final sanding pass.

Fill a bucket with water.
Dunk the sponge in the water, and then wring it out to remove as much excess water as possible.
Using a light circular motion, buff the compound to a smooth finish.

Alternatively, you could purchase this 3M drywall sanding sponge.

In has both medium and fine grade on one sponge, and it can be used wet or dry.  Similarly, use this sponge in a light circular motion.
Personally, when I'm patching drywall I tend to use a damp microfiber cloth for my finish sanding.


Furnace running.Shuting off for a few mins then starting again.Continued process

If the home is maintaining the temperature set on the thermostat (at least AT the thermostat) then it's probable that you are near, but not quite at, "design load" for the furnace. At design load, the furnace runs 100% of the time to keep up with heat loss in the house and maintain temperature - if it gets colder than that outside (below the "design temperature"), the house gets colder than set. At anything less than design load, the furnace runs a fraction of the time, and is off a fraction of the time. The closer the outside temperature is to "design temperature" the longer the run time and shorter the off time. As it gets warmer outside, the off time increases and the run time gets shorter.

Anything that makes the house lose heat faster raises the effective design temperature (doesn't change what temperature was assumed to design it, but alters the actual one.)

Anything that makes the house lose heat slower lowers the  effective design temperature (doesn't change what temperature was assumed to design it, but alters the actual one.)

If the house is NOT maintaining the set temperature AND the furnace is shutting off regularly, something may be in need of maintenance/adjustment.


Need help removing bolt and nuts from a mailbox

Spray it with a bit of penetrating oil, then sit back and wait for a bit (a beer or two ought to do it).  Then try loosening the bolt again. Repeat until the bolts are out, or you're too drunk to care.


Hot air gun / paint stripper for melting plastic

While the lower end hotair guns often only have one or two settings, the more expensive models offer variable increments (I've seen units that do 50 degrees and a commenter mentioned 10 degrees; each model will be different so review the specs).  The temperature spec gives the output temperature.

Start low and increase the temperature as needed to melt the plastic.  Do this in a well vented area as the fumes can be toxic.


How do I add grip to concrete sealer after it is already applied?

You'll probably need to reapply the product (or another compatible sealer) and apply grit to it as an admix.


Adding a new switch with an independent light in an existing circuit

Based on the input by the contributors, I was able to make an informed decision. I passed a new cable down through the wall to the main switch box at the bottom of the stairs. I wired in the new wire and passed the wire across to the pantry room. I removed the wire from the fixture and tied those together in a junction box. I passed the new cable down to the new box and passed a new wire from the box to the existing electrical box. The fixture box is plastic and doesn't have a ground screw so I just capped it off with a wire nut. I wired the light and the switch without any issue.


Can I paint a deck when wet weather is forecasted?

I would paint after the rain and make sure there is a tarp over the deck before it rains.  You need the manufacturer's guidelines but two simple rules to painting outside is not touching a damp surface - and it can take a few days for a deck to dry out and not painting within 48 hours of rain forecast.  At 24 hours after painting you could tarp the deck but really better to have a few clear days.  If rain is constant then you just need to wait.


How can I unjam a garbage disposal that the allen wrench doesn't fix?

Based on your description, I don't think the problem is a jam. More likely the windings in the motor are bad or there is a bad contact in the motor. Because of the design of most domestic garbage disposals, you can't open the motor housing to fix these problems. Therefore your only option is to replace it.


Is it safe to replace the thermostat when furnace is shut off?

It is safe from an injury standpoint to replace that sort of thermostat regardless of the furnace being on or off, since the voltage in the thermostat wiring is 24 V or less.
However, you haven't stated why you want to replace it, or what sort of thermostat you intend to install.  If you're looking at a programmable unit, or even a model with Internet connection, be aware that you may need a separate power feed to operate the thermostat itself.  Read the requirements on whatever thermostat model you're considering installing before buying.


It is not unusual for the floors in older homes to creak some, but what you are describing sounds like there is some damage to the structure. Since it is the worst around the toilet, I am betting that there is a leak somewhere which is slowly rotting out the floor.

If you have access to the floor from underneath, look for dark stains on the wood around the toilet stack. Try poking around with a screwdriver to see if there are any soft spots. The floor most likely will need to be repaired, before the repairs are done, you should identify where the active leaks are so you won't have this problem in the future. It is most likely leaking from somewhere around the toilet. The wax seal may have failed, or it is dripping from above and making its way onto the floor.


What is a good source for older Crestline window locks?

Try Blaine window hardware Inc. 800-678-1919


How to compute panel bus bar stab and breaker spring clip electrical contacts area

All Siemens load center bus systems are exactly the same and have been for decades, going back to when they were ITE brand before Siemens bought them in the 1980s. Nothing has changed. If this were a design issue, there would be countless fires, lawsuits etc. Siemens is the world's largets electrical company, something that lawyers drool over. So they would be all over this like stink on a pile of poo.

So there are three possibilities here;

1) You have a COUNTERFEIT breaker, which has been happening a lot with breakers being sold over the internet, even through big outlets like Amazon.

2) You bought a used  / "refurbished" (no such thing) breaker and it had been subjected to a lot of heat, likely due to overloading, to where the springs have lost their tension.

3) You have a defective breaker. It happens, but generally Siemens catches it and issues a recall. Now, as it so happens, there WAS a recall of this series of breakers by Siemens back in 2010 for this EXACT reason! So whomever you bought this from either failed to notice that, or pulled them out of a garbage can back in 2010 and is selling them at 100% profit. If you can prove that you bought this from an AUTHORIZED dealer of Siemens equipment, they will likely replace it for you. If you bought it from FleaBay or Amazon or some surplus site, good luck with that... When the price looks too good to be true, it is.

https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/1998/cpsc-siemens-energy-automation-inc-announce-recall-of-gfci-circuit-breakers-used-with


Diamond hole saws work well for this with water. If this is anything like the stone foundations I have worked with there will never be a straight mortar line that could be used. On one of the first walls I drilled through I used a hammer drill and bit , The hammer drill caused the rock to break out on the back side and it was very tough to repair. This is the type of drill. once I get about an inch in I chip out the center and go deeper repeating the chipping process as I get close to the bottom of the saw. A really Good quality one may make it depending on the rock type. Don't go cheap or you will spend more time getting new ones and even though they are close to the same size sometimes you ending up having a slightly larger bit the second time (also found this out the hard way)


Remove 1.5” spa pipe fitting from PVC pipe WITHOUT damaging pipe

heat it with a blow torch or hot air gun until it softens then slit it with a knife and peel it off


What is 'normal' phantom drain for a US household?

Older Fridges can draw upwards of 300 W  (while in defrost for example), and can average over 150W even if they are working correctly.  If you've got two of them, that could be your load and could explain the variance (if one were in defrost while measuring).  1KVA "Phantom" load for a 3500 sqft house doesn't seem totally unreasonable.  You've already found 500-700w of draw.  Everyone's circuit breaker idea (in comments above) is good to localize which circuit the phantom drain is attached to.


If your roof is constructed with gables, you could use a thermostatically controlled (or timer controlled, or manually switched, or combination of these things) gable fan:

or cut in a dormer fan or flat powered-attic fan (these are available as a unit, just cut a hole and wire up):


They use a steam box and pre shaped forms. The wood is inserted into the box and sealed. Then steam is applied to one end of the box and allowed to escape from the other end. After removing, the lumber is worked around the form and clamped. Once set the finishing and shaping can start. It's a very old technique and saw large scale use in shipbuilding. I've seen guys do it in the field with a small steam box. It's pretty easy to work with. Some woods are better suited than others.


Dimmers of the type that go inside lamps (are we talking a halogen torchiere here?) are commodity components, and generally do not take a neutral.

One option is to go with low voltage (12-24V) LEDs e.g. LED strips, and use the technology used to dim those -- PWM.  You may be able to find a PWM dimmer with a rheostat input, and  relocate the rheostat (or one of equivalent value) to the standard location.  This kind of hacking and experimentation is much more appropriate with low voltage lighting, where the risk of electrical shock is off the table.


Can I clean up and tape old unfinished drywall in the garage?

Yes you can clean patch and clean then texture to your hearts delight. I have done this in both garages and bonus rooms that the paper was yellow with age. After wiping down I taped and muddled then sanded wiped down and shot the texture, it has turned out great and just this little bit of work has added thousands to the appraisal, so it is worthwhile and will look much better. If the surface is oily a Tri sodium phosphate (or replacement chemical) may be needed for the wipe down just don’t go two wild with the water.


Is there an adhesive I can use with anchors to keep them from pulling out?

You could try some "No Nails" or equivalent, though as you say it shouldn't be necessary.

The size of screw you are using will determine the size of the anchor you use. This in turn will determine the size of hole you drill.

The anchor should fit snugly into the hole and even require a light tap with a small hammer to ensure it fits flush with the surface. This will mean that the grippers on the sides will have a good purchase on the brickwork as you drive the screw home. It's this outwards force that will stop the anchor coming out of the hole.


Why am I getting an high limit switch error code on my HVAC when the switch is working?

Check for an intermittently bad fan relay (i.e. the blower sometimes fails to start, causing the furnace to overheat when that occurs).


Effective way to remove trapped lint inside blower wheel? Maytag mgd8630hw0

Make a long hook from a metal coat hanger and scrape gently , it looks like it will peel off easily.

Something I have done often, in fact I have several hooks made like that.


Adding corrugated plastic panels adjacent to existing roof

I'd think you'd abut the two roofing types and overlay a flashing, lapping onto each 6 inches or more. The outcome would be similar to any hip or ridge.


You will need to check the spec sheet on that particular furnace for the size of the piping needed for the total length of piping including all fitting. Use the conversion sheet to turn all fittings into equivalent lengths of pipe, total all the pipe lengths, and choose the size of piping needed.


Experimentation (trying combinations) is a rather bad idea. It can seem expedient at the time, but the nature of electrical is that there are many combinations which will work but will kill you. You should pause and research instead.

There are other wires in the back of the box.  Those should be left alone.

Dimmer

I see a dimmer.  Not every lamp is compatible with every dimmer, but every dimmer is designed to work with incandescent bulbs. You can't solve two problems at once, no matter how good you think you are. I would suggest substituting a simple $1 bare light bulb holder there with an incandescent light. The purpose is to figure out which wires are the correct ones, and confirm they do work.  Then you can try the other light and troubleshoot its problem.  There are "incandescent simulator" devices such as the Lutron LUT-MLC which can be wired in parallel with LED etc. lamps to help them work better with old dimmers.

Ground and neutral

The first thing we know about any electrical installtation is that there may be safety grounding.  That is always green, green/yellow, bare, or the exposed metal of the boxes and parts.  These always go together, and they are never anything else.

The second thing we know about any lamp is it needs a neutral wire (to return current to source). Neutral is not ground.  North American color codes for neutral are white or gray  (generally white).

There is a white coming out from the ceiling, and a white on the lamp. Connect them. Neutral is done and dusted.

All other wires are "hot" of one kind or another, and there are no further rules defining which hot is which.

Hots

Now what remains are 2 wires from the ceiling. These wires were not  connected before.  You never connect wires from the wall/ceiling to each other if they weren't before, because they have different functions (otherwise the person would not spend the money on the extra wire).  That means one wire will be used, and the other will be capped off.

The other wire on the lamp obviously needs to connect to something for the lamp to work.  We can't connect it to both remaining ceiling wires as discussed.  So we connect to one or the other.

Typically there are two wires either because a) there are 2 switches separately controlling two aspects of the light/fan, or b) there is a switched-hot and an always-hot up there for some reason (e.g. a light on a switch but a fan on a pull chain).   You can only connect the lamp to one or the other, as discussed.

Since they are both hot wires (not white or green) and the remaining lamp wire is hot, now we are ready for experimentation.

Generally, in case b), people prefer the color codes of black for always-hot and red for switched-hot. That is not required; there are no color codes except for the ones mentioned for neutral and ground.    I would give red a try and see if it works.   If that doesn't work, the only other choice is black.


Remove the two screw on the trip lever cover, and have a look inside.  Since you have a plunger style, the linkage bars have likely dropped down out of view. You'll have to reach down the hole, and pull the assembly back up.

Straighten out a wire hanger; or some excess solid strand electrical wire, and put a small hook in one end.
Go fishing.
Try to hook the plunger assembly, and pull it back up out of the hole.

For reference, this is about what the drain looks like.

There should be a ridge at the bottom of the overflow pipe, to prevent the stopper from falling down the drain. So the stopper and linkages should be somewhere in the overflow pipe.

I've heard of people using a shop-vac to stuck the plunger out, but I've never tried it myself.

Good luck.


Vitaliy is basically correct. In most states trades such as plumbing, electrical, gas, oil burners, require a licence. The licence is usually broken down as an apprentice, journeyman then finally a master. Times will vary and requirements and tests vary by state. Specialized permits can only be pulled by masters in the trades. GC's pull the general permit for the structure.
A general contractor is usually someone that has a good working knowledge of several trades and good trustworthy sub-contractors.  Some states require a licence as a GC and proof of contractor liability insurance. I can tell you that fly by night contractors go by the boards quickly, one needs good skills in estimating, carpentry, problem solving, good credit, at least one million $$$ of liability insurance and the ability to communicate clearly with customers and understand exactly what the customer wants and needs. maybe most important is to be able to realistically tell customers what is possible in the budget allowed and never over promise. We all hear stories about unskilled and bad contractors. They may work for a while, but smart consumers will ask for financial and customer references, and a bad rep will put them out of business quickly. Miscalculate a job and you can lose big bucks, do a bad job and have to claim on your insurance and your insurance will be canceled.

Most GC's I know are pretty smart guys, good business smarts. They keep up on new products and methods. Lots of our suppliers have product seminars, trade shows and you will see the good guys at them learning to give a better product to the consumer.  The most important factor in being a good GC is experience. The more I see, the more complex the problem, the more I watch and learn from my subs, the better.  I have been doing general contracting for about 13 years now, and I still take time to watch shows like TOH, Holmes on Homes, Ask TOH. I find them a great source of new ideas and methods from some excellent teachers. I also enjoy being a pro member on This old House for pros website.  When I get a tough problem, I can turn to other guys for help and good advise.

I know this answer is a bit rambling, but the bottom line to becoming a successful GC is commitment, experience, knowledge, investment in good tools and people, and growing with a fast changing market.


What type of sub-floor is suitable for laminate flooring?

The 1/4" plywood is likely luan. It's used to level the floor, often for a vinyl floor. For a hardwood floor, the main reason to have luan is shore up the floor and reduce any pitting or other slope issues. Whether you can remove the luan depends on the quality of your subfloor. If it has any imperfections, I would keep (or replace) the luan.


Shouldn't a Kitchen be sealed off from cockroaches? Would a new Kitchen eliminate the problem?

Rebuilding the kitchen will not stop them. Various insecticides will kill them for now.  Borax is safe and effective long term  . When I built my house in roach country ( E. TX) I put several pounds of borax in the walls before dry wall was put up. Worked great. After 25 years roach free years , apparently a couple recently got in and found the dishwasher cabinet was ideal ( no borax nearby). I was seeing a big roach about every other day , after none for years. I drilled a 1/2 hole under a counter top and blew in borax powder around the dishwasher. In the last month there have been only a few little roaches and they are slow and easy to kill because the borax slows them down before they die. So you can have an exterminator every few months or figure how to get borax powder where they are living. ( My wife has not noticed the hole so I am good). ADDENDA : On the otherhand ,if you are going to redo the kitchen anyway, put borax under, behind, and everywhere else around new fixtures, that may fix the roaches .


Is a horizontal hang track necessary for wire shelving installation?

(I am familiar with the image posted in the question:  some 'shelf systems' include a horizontal bar across the top, and the uprights have a notch which is able to hook onto that crossbar.)

The real reason to use that crossbar at the top is so you can carry the load between studs.  Since you are able to screw your uprights directly into studs, that crossbar at the top is not really needed.


The make wood putty in a range of colors to match different types of wood.  You can probably find one that's a close match to your baseboards.

Take a small amount, fill the nail hole and wipe it smooth with a damp cloth.  When it dries, lightly sand it and the surrounding area down, then re-varnish the area.


You can temporarily cap off the shower with a 1/2" FNPT pipe cap attached where the shower head would go, or install a shower head with an on/off switch.


The piece of the brush may still be stuck in the toilet. I have used toilet auggers on several occasions and gone past the blockage, pulled the toilet and the drain was fine, running the augger backwards through the toilet got the dog toy that was stuck , and it pushed the light bulb out into the bowl that my daughter flushed. A wax seal is only a few $ and toilets are not hard to pull 2 bolts and a water line, make sure to flush the water out of the toilet, I then like to use a shop vac to suck the water out of the trap because when the toilet is laid down to try and reverse augger the toilet water will leak out of the trap if not removed.


Those are really deep scratches, you can't fix those completely. You could get rid of the smaller ones and fill up the bigger ones, you'd need to sand the whole floor down and refinish it though or it would look worse. At the end of that it may not look that much better, then the only option is replace the whole floor.

If it was me I'd invest in a rug which would cover that area, or I'd just live with it.


Can a gambrel roof have outer instead of inner supports?

Trying to brace the roof from the outside as you illustrated will not add any significant structural reinforcement. Without the metal bands, the front and back walls carry the brunt of the lateral load that the roof places on the side walls. Adding straps that encircle the exterior will primarily reinforce the ends, and do little towards stabilizing the rest of the side walls.

If you're working on a small scale, such as an 8x10' (maaaaybe 12x12') shed, you may be able to get away with this type of design, where the exterior walls serve as the bottom truss members to tie the roof together over a short span:

(image source)

However, if you're dealing with anything much larger, this method will not be sufficient. The reason is easier to understand when you examine how the different members in a truss work together to support a load. The top members of a truss supporting a vertical load are generally in compression, with the bottom in tension. Without the bottom members pulling your truss back together, the walls of your structure will be forced outward.

Here's an example showing exactly how each member in the generic gambrel truss works:

In order to analyze the tension and compression in each truss member, the standard practice is to assume the joints do not support any torque loading (aka moment in engineering terms). Therefore, each member is either in tension or compression. For the beginner, I always recommend arbitrarily assigning each member in tension, and if it solves to a negative value, that means it's actually in compression.

First, start by determining the reactions at the supports. Since this loading is symmetrical, it can be assumed that the vertical reactions are equal. Sum the forces in the vertical direction, and solve for the reactions:

Next, you can use the section method to determine the tension in member CI. Start by 'cutting' the truss across the members you want to solve for. Careful though, you can only solve three at once - sum of the forces in x and y, and sum of the moments for the resulting section:

In this case I only solved for the tension in member CI, which is what you're interested in eliminating. It came out to 2.1875 kN, which is approximately 1/4 of the loading not applied directly over the walls. So if you calculated the total weight of your roof material, you should be able to get a rough estimate of how much lateral force is going to be on the walls. THEN you could work out a beam bending equation for the top plate running along each side wall, and figure out if it can sustain that lateral load.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not giving you professional engineering advice, I'm just trying to help you understand how truss structures work so you can make an informed decision yourself.

If you want to look more into the methods I used, a Google search for 'statics truss examples (PDF)' may be the best place to get started.

EDIT: I was at Home Depot last night, and noticed they had several pre-built sheds with gambrel-style roofs. I looked inside, and most of them simply had plywood gussets holding the truss members together, with no cross-beams. Although, the larger ones usually only had half of the roof built this way, with a loft to stabilize the roof at the rear half. I'd suggest that you go to Home Depot or Lowes and take a look at their pre-built sheds. Try to find one the same dimensions as yours, and pay very close attention to how it's constructed. I'd even take a tape measure, sketch pad, and camera along and pretty much copy the design. Someone took time making sure that shed is stable, I guarantee it. You may as well take advantage of it for your own shed.


Should we replace shingles that are curling and losing the asphalt coating before winter hits?

Replace it now.  Like TODAY.  That's BAD.
With that kind of bad shingle wear, your shingles are likely to create ice dams which will cause water to back up and leak through the roof, causing interior damage, compounding the cost.

In the summer, the roof won't hold the water because it can't freeze, so the curls will only grab a very little water before it drips free.
In the winter, however, a little retained water will freeze, expand, and capture more water, which will freeze, and so forth.


What is the name of this water source for a whole house humidifier?

These are called "saddle valves" or "vampire taps".  They just poke a hole in the pipe with a little pressure around the hole to seal it.  They almost always leak after some time but they are quick and easy to install.

The right way is to cut the pipe and install a tee fitting that then supplies a standard valve.  You can use push-to-fit connectors these days to make the job simple or you can used a traditional soldering approach.

Because of the number of fittings in that small space and the fact that the pipe is damaged with two saddle valves, you'll be replacing that entire bendy section.


You are correct that a low refrigerant charge is the most likely cause since you have verified air flow.
One additional check would be to see if it has a throttle valve or capillary metering system, a capillary is an inexpensive metering method with a very small tube if this kind of metering and your problem a recharge would be needed.
If there is a throttle valve it may have stuck open I have seen a couple of mid sized units with throttle valves and a tap may get it to cycle but once they start sticking they get worse with time.
I will note if R134a I have seen small 1-2 lb recharge kits at auto stores, if your system has a service port you could get a can and recharge the unit.
If you don’t have a service port there are bolt on ones that can be found on line for under 10$ but the ones I have are 1/4 flair fittings not the automotive R134a I think those are a 1/4” square thread or similar to acme and there are adapters for flair to acme that’s what I use for automotive.
I don’t know how they get away with selling the r134a but it is the real thing I checked it out a while back but the cost is quite high per pound compared to what certified people get it for in 30 lb cylinders .


Offgrid L14-30 connector to solar generator

If there are no 240V loads (seems likely) and if your inverter package has an appropriate output breaker to protect itself from overload (since the panel is clearly going to be able to draw far more than the inverter supplies) you should be fine, but you're almost certainly going to need a custom-made cable, not a pre-purchased adapter.

The L14-30 has hot1, hot2, neutral and ground. A 5-15 has hot, neutral, and ground. The expected voltage between hot1 and hot 2 is 240 volts. If there are only 120V loads, you can connect both hots on the L14-30 to the single hot on the 5-15 and it will work, up to the point that the inverter overloads (not too likely if your loads are as described, but then someone plugs in a coffeemaker or hairdryer.)

As the breakers are currently arranged, feeding only one of the two hots would leave half your circuits without power.

Most of your more serious off-grid inverters will happily supply 240VAC, and don't come with a receptacle at all, as they expect to be hard-wired. If you are going to connect a tiny inverter and keep the loads tiny, it should work with an adapter made as described.

I strongly suspect that you can do a lot better (cost wise) with a built system than the pre-packaged one.


What are the pros and cons of different types of windows?

I replaced the widows in my house this spring, and you're asking a lot of the same questions I asked.

First, the cost of the windows themselves is only part of the equation.  You also need to consider the removal of the old windows, installation of the new ones, and the finish work - because chances are, all the trim, and all of the interior sills will also need to be replaced.  Installation can actually be 50% of the cost of the job, and a poor installation will ruin any value you might get from buying a top-notch window.

There are a few things to consider when looking at the windows themselves.  First, as you point out, is the construction.  I ended up going with vinyl - again, a quality vinyl window and a cheap vinyl window are two different things - the local shop here had examples of a number of different windows cut open so you can see the difference.  Cheap windows may not be insulated, or may be made up of different pieces glued together, rather than a single extruded piece.

Next, the glass.  You can get single, double, or even triple panes.  Some use argon between the panes, some don't - the sealed, argon-filled windows offer better insulation.  Then there's the low-e coating on the glass - it can be applied in different ways, which will affect the durability and effectiveness of the window.

You need to consider casement vs single hung vs double hung.  Are they on a 2nd or 3rd story?  You'll probably want to get a window that allows you to clean the outside without having to get up on a ladder - most double-hung windows will allow you to clean it from the inside of the house.  If you're putting windows into a bedroom, you have to allow for a certain size for egress - you may need to go with a casement window in that case.

The bottom line is, check around - get at least 3 estimates, unless you're planning on installing them yourself.  See what's included in the estimate - one of our estimates included a single line item for "Installation", while another had 3 pages of details, down to the number of board-feet of trim, cans of foam insulation, and the cost of the building permit.  Guess which one we went with?


How to raise this floor transition joint?

You need to take into account three issues: Pressure from the top (someone standing on the strip), lateral pressure (someone knocking or stubbing the trip forwards or backwards), and moisture (what goes under the trim when mopping the floor).

To address each of these issues:

Place support under the flat surface of the trim
Ensure some of the bracket is still available, and
Use wood that is tolerant to moisture

I had a similar problem (with an identical piece of trim) and this is how I fixed the issue.  It's not perfect, but you'll hardly notice!

Use a chisel to remove the small rectangle of wood that the strip connects to. (The X in the picture)
Cut the floor strip to remove the right side of the plastic. In the picture below, it would result in the plastic strip looking like an uppercase letter L.
Dry install the strip and the transition.  You may find the strip is too tall (i.e. the 'back' of the L) to let the transition sit flush with the floor. If so, shave down the strip.  Be careful, these guys shatter easily. A file may be best.
Align and install your strip.
Find a piece of wood (perhaps a water resistant MDF) that is the right height to place under the transition.
Install the spacing wood. Personally I would screw it to the floor.
Apply construction adhesive to strip and top of the spacer. Your connecting  strip is compromised - be generous with the adhesive.
Leave to dry, best of luck with your project!


Materials for building inexpensive light-weight large planter?

Animal watering troughs make for low cost and easily implemented "instant" planters that are (or start out) light weight for the strength they provide. You can cut down on the weight of the soil by putting in a layer of crumpled soda cans or plastic water bottles in the bottom. I like the looks of the plain galvanized metal ones, but you can paint them if you don't, or there are plastic versions that come in colors.


Ecobee 4 installation - No C constant 24V option on Furnace

Tap the other transformer terminal

The transformer terminal on the right seems to be connected by a brown wire to R as you describe, so clearly the other transformer terminal on the front of the transformer (the left-hand one, with the purple wires hooked to it) is the C terminal.  This is consistent with the wiring diagram you posted, which has wires from the transformer common to the common side of both relay coils.


A u-tube doesn't need calibration in the respect that the difference between the two scales will be twice the static suction. For convenience though, in order to read accurately from 0, it should be "calibrated", because some oil will slowly be lost over the years. Simply disconnect the tops of the tube and slide it until the oil level is even with the zero reading. Replace the connections.

How different the levels are will depend on the accuracy of the device and the size of the fan, among other factors. What's important is what was the reading when the system was new? That should have been documented after installation and posted. If the current reading is significantly different, the cause should be determined and corrected.


Is it normal for tap water to turn brown/blue when the pipes freeze?

We're seeing here in action why backflow preventers (check valves) are mandated in various municipalities.

Blue water sounds like someone was using one of those toilet cleaner tablets in the tank, the system lost pressure due to the freeze blockage and siphoned the toilet tank till the fill tube on the ballcock was exposed. Not something I'd want circulating in my drinking water. It also could be copper sulfate from corrosion that occurs in copper piping, but that usually is only enough to stain sinks and tubs.

If the water is orangish brown, it may be that the stress from freezing has knocked a lot of iron rust loose in the pipes. Typically, there is always a major air gap between sewage and potable water (nigh impossible to get the toilet bowl to empty into the flush tank due to gravity and four inches of air the water would have to jump).

Your major worries with pipes freezing is that if they do burst, they can draw contaminated water back in if they're in places like flooded basements and the act of draining causes a vacuum within. At that point, you have bacteria contaminated water to deal with.

Your landlord definitely should be notified and should tell you what the water contaminant is.


How can I uninstall this old school light switch from the wall?

The middle image clearly shows a nut at the bottom of the recess or hole.

Get some deep thin wall sockets and it should come undone easily.

Or undo the flathead screws and make the wires safe then break the base. Then remove or grind down the threads...


Can rigid foam board have an air space between it and the studs. Basement wall

It's fine to have a gap between the rigid insulation and the energy wall IF you don't allow airflow to occur between the gap and your conditioned space. If there's free flow of air from on space to the other, the insulation in your energy wall effectively does nothing as you've now basically placed the insulation in the middle of the room.

This means relying on your drywall, plus something at the top of the gap, to completely block airflow. For that reason it may prove too complex.


How many ceiling fans and switches can I put on one breaker

There should be no problem running 4 ceiling fans on a single 15 ampere circuit, though it will depend on what else is on the circuit.

Say a 52" fan is 90-100 watts (at high speed), plus three 60 watt bulbs. That puts each fixture at 280 watts or so. Which means four of them, would be 1120 watts.

A 120 volt 15 ampere circuit, can supply 1880 watts (120 volts x 15 amperes = 1880 watts). Some folks will argue that you should only load the circuit to 80%, so that would be 1440 watts for a 120 volt 15 ampere circuit. Which even so, is still enough to supply the fixtures.

Note: the values used in the answer are an estimate, for example purposes only.  Check the listed wattage for the devices you'll actually be using.


Automatic turn off of water pump as water tank overflows (Manual turn on is needed)

What you ask is out there, in the form of residential effluence treatment (septic).

It utilizes float switches and a small analog or digital controller that automates exactly what your looking for.

Research "septic pump tank design". You're looking for a system with 3 or 4 float switches installed. Parts for these systems are available all over the world.


How close can soldered and threaded joints be?

If I cannot unscrew the pipe and solder it I will wrap a very wet rag to the end that has the combination plastic/copper fittings and sweat the new fittings on. I use Mapp Gas as it is hotter and works better with non lead solders than propane. I do burnish the pipe and fitting with abrasive and use water based flux. I have done this as close as 3" to a composite fitting without damage. If you notice the rag starting to steam you may need more water on it “dripping wet” keeps the heat from traveling and melting the plastic parts.


I need to drill but have detected metal approx 3" x 3". Not pipes, not wires. Can I drill?

The short answer is No, you can't drill.
Drilling into masonry and hitting something unexpected can be dangerous and expensive.  That's why you scanned first, which was wise.  (No idea what you used to scan...)  Your scan found something, but you don't have enough information to know what with any confidence.  It could be nothing more than a scrap of metal that fell in the mix when the concrete was poured, it could be buried treasure, it could be something else that shocks, floods, or explodes.  Drilling into it is not the way to find out what it is.
There are other difficulties drilling through metal embedded in masonry but that's another matter.


I had a similar situation as of lately. There are usually only a few things it can be.

1) Cracked pipe and that usually occurs outside from the well to the house.

2) The pump is bad or giving out.

3) Well is running low and pump needs to be lowered or redrilled.

4) There is too much air pressure in the tank and it needs to be released.

I do not think it is 1 or 3 because you said no sediments in the water.
The the noise you hear is probably the well kicking on and off which points to 2, 3 or 4.
In my case it was initially too much air.. after time it was pump need to be lowered. Next, will be drilling lower. Cheers


How high can a 'sub floor' be raised withh plywood sheets?

You can, but it's an expensive way to go, usually.  And plywood is an inferior top surface for tiling onto.

If not simply re-doing the "mud" approach (worth considering - works well, may cost less) you could use (top down) 1/2" backer board (set on thinset), 3/4" plywood, and set the plywood on 3/4" strips spaced 6-12" or so apart, rather than two full sheets of 3/4" ply.


Why do I have house flies in my carport?

Is it possible that these are not your regular house flies but instead something called a cluster fly?

I've seen these flies make a nuisance of themselves in the ceiling of one house of a friend.  He had to get it fumigated.  After that, no problems.

Is your carport right next to your house?  is the light attached to the carport or to the house?  Could there be a little nest in there somewhere?


Does running a dryer on 120 V drive up electricity costs?

Not an immediate danger, but quite a few problems
According to the spec sheet, this dryer is rated for 240V, 30A. Running it on "120V outlet" in the US normally means either 15A or 20A. Thanks to Ohm's law, if you run it on a 20A circuit you are probably safe. If you run it on a 15A circuit, there may be a safety issue. But in any case, there are plenty of other problems.
A dryer has three main power consuming sections - controls, drum motor and resistance heating elements. Typically (but can't tell for sure on any particular dryer without checking the schematics or the actual wiring), the controls & drum motor require 120V (Hot-Neutral) and the resistance heating requires 240V (Hot-Hot). If you manage to get the dryer working on 120V, then presumably you have everything working on Hot-Neutral.
As numerous others have pointed out, thanks to Ohm's law, if you cut the voltage in 1/2 and keep the resistance the same, the current will also be cut in 1/2 and the power produced by 1/4 (power = current x voltage). The result is nominally 4x the drying time. But due to other related factors, my gut feeling is that the drying time may actually increase by MORE than 4x. But we'll go with 4x.
Assume for the moment that the dryer uses, normally, 22A @ 240V for heating. That is now cut to 11A @ 120V and instead of 5,280 watts it is only 1,320 watts.
However, the drum motor (controls are minimal power on a modern machine), will still use the same power it used before. If it was previously 5A @ 120V, now it is still 5A @ 120V, so the total usage will now be 11A + 5A = 16A. If my numbers are correct (they are an arbitrary guess and may not represent reality, but they are one possible combination) then the usage of 16A would be greater than the normal capacity of a 15A 120V circuit. So there is a possibility of over-current if this is a 15A circuit and the numbers are "just right". It is also possible that this is a 20A circuit (no problem) or the numbers are a little different (e.g., heater 22A => 11A + electronics 1A + drum motor 2A = 14A total) and no problem. So there is a concern but it is NOT my original "BIG PROBLEM".
As far as electricity cost: In theory, if 120V == 1/4 the heat produced and the clothes dry in exactly 4x the normal time, then your electricity costs would be the same as running at 240V. However, it is quite likely that the clothes take substantially MORE than four times as long to dry for "physics reasons" (I can't get into it all right now, though I still stand by that statement despite my retraction of the imminent safety issue).
Bottom line: Your current setup:

May be a real hazard due to possible over-current of wiring and equipment
Is a waste of energy (as you already suspected)
Takes way too long to dry your clothes (as you already know)
Is almost certainly shortening the life of the dryer due to use beyond the design

Get it fixed - put in a proper 4-wire NEMA 14-30 outlet, a 30A 2-pole breaker and appropriate wiring (minimum 10 gauge copper).


How many staples to fasten 6/3 cable to studs?

You'll need to staple it down every 4.5', and within 12" of the boxes

This support requirement comes from NEC 334.30:

  334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable
  shall be supported and secured by staples; cable ties listed and
  identified for securement and support; or straps, hangers, or
  similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the
  cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4½ ft) and within
  300 mm (12 in.) of every cable entry into enclosures such as
  outlet boxes, junction boxes, cabinets, or fittings. Flat cables
  shall not be stapled on edge.


Help connecting unused C wire for Smart Thermostat

Your C connection is as depicted below in the furnace electrical diagram as I highlighted by the blue line. As you will note that highlighted connection in the lower right corner is to connection #5 of the transformer. Note also that that connection also connects to the frame ground of the furnace.

It is very typical that your air conditioner compressor is driven  from the furnace control wiring with a two wire cable. One of those two wires will also be connected into this C wire connection. If you carefully trace your wire connections from the AC unit you will find the wire of the two that ends up being tied to furnace frame ground. (With power turned off to the furnace a digital multi-meter in continuity testing mode can be a handy way to find the wire that connects to the frame ground).

Once you identify the wiring harness that attaches directly to the frame ground (or transformer connection #5) you can tie your spare wire in the thermostat cable into that harness wire.


Changed an old Led light to pendant and it keeps shorting

You shouldn't need all those floating connector blocks, there are enough positions on the backplate for loop-in, loop-out, switch and pendant.

The pendant should be connected to the outermost positions and looped through the cord grips.

Your wires to the switch probably include a red permanent-live and a black switched live which should be marked with red tape and connected at the double position connector.

In the above diagram, A is loop-in from prior ceiling-rose (or from consumer unit), B is loop-out to next ceiling rose and C is to/from switch. Typically all wires are 1mm² or 1.5mm² twin & earth with green/yellow sleeving added to the bare earth wires.

Note that I think most UK electricians wire the wires from the switch cable (C) in the other way than that shown in this diagram, they connect the red to position 3 and the black (with red tape) to position 2. That's the way I, as a mere home-owner, wire these fittings.

Photo - own work, © RedGrittyBrick. Licence: Creative-Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0

At the top are three 1.5 mm² Twin&Earth cables with the 2004 colours (blue neutral, brown line/live) the bare circuit protective conductor (CPC or Earth) in the cable is covered by a green/yellow sheath when terminated.

From left to right these are feed-in, feed-out and switch. The blue from the switch is covered in red tape (probably should be brown?) to indicate switched-live.

The flex to the pendant lamp is looped around the strain relief.

Could it be that in your case, the black switched-live is not marked with red tape and has been connected with the other blacks - this would short the circuit when the switch is turned on


Is temporarily reducing the water supply line an option when installing a water softener?

The lucklihood is that it will reduce the pressure throughout the house significantly, especially if more than one faucet is running at once.

It is also possible that the softener might not work correclty due to the reduced pressure, or that the output pressure will be even less than expected.

I would think that hard water for a couple extra days would outweigh soft water with little pressure - especially in the shower!


Lead paint test showed positive hours later

I'm Lead Certified. That's orange, not red. That's just testing positive for Penetrol, or some derision thereof. It makes paint flow better. Not a danger to you or your windowsill lickers.