I have a pier-and-beam house, and the instructions are pretty much correct.

Tile will crack eventually when placed over pier-and-beam because of two related issues:

Floor joists often aren't on 12- or 16-inch centers, so they allow too much "give" when you step on the floor between the joists.
The piers are settling independently of one another based on soil conditions, and even fractional-inch movement is enough to crack grout lines over time.

So, if you really want tile, I would suggest removing the existing linoleum, then do the following:

Ensure that the subfloor is as level as possible before you begini. This is a lot better than to discover later that you need to shim your subfloor, use self-leveling compound, etc. for the tile to lay flat.
Lay a first layer of 3/4" plywood (or leave the one you have if it is in good condition and screwed down well).
Install a second layer of either 3/4" plywood or cement board going the other direction, so any movement at the first-layer joints is distributed across the second layer. Be sure to use long wood screws that go through both layers and back into the joists.
Install a decoupling membrane such as DITRA over the subfloor.
Install the tile.


Can I build a dry room in a moist garage?

The major cause of rust on machine tools is fast changes in temperature during humid weather.

Imagine this scenario: you have a large pile of steel sitting in your cold garage at night. Because the garage is dug into a hill, if the garage is well-insulated, the temperature of the steel will be near the ground temperature, probably around 5 C. During the afternoon, warm, humid weather arrives, and you decide to go out to the garage to do some welding. You open the door, and a breeze of 20 C, humid air blows into the garage and hits the cold metal.

Cold air can't hold as much moisture as warm air. When the warm air hits the cold metal, the air is cooled. (The metal also warms up a little, but more slowly.) If the air is humid enough and cool enough, condensation forms on your steel. That's when you get rust.

To prevent rust, you need to do two things:

Reduce the permeability of the garage to air.
Regulate the temperature of the garage with heater that has a temperature sensor of some sort.

You can try a dehumidifier, but for the cost, I suspect that a heater is a better deal.


Use impact driver or impact wrench for lag screws?

I think the answer to this will be "it depends" since there are different size lag bolts, there's the number of bolts you intend to install and how often, the size of the pilot hole you intend to drill, and you may have more or less usage for other tasks (cars) than other people.

The impact wrench will have more capacity, but may be less portable, heavier, and could over torque in some situations. The impact driver is likely to be more convenient, more likely to have interchangeable bits and batteries with your power drill and or other tools, but may not be up to driving hundreds of bolts per day. And if you're only doing a few bolts, the answer is neither and use a simple socket set to install them by hand. Regardless of which tool you use, a properly sized pilot hole will make the job easier, straighter, and less likely to split the wood.


Standing Water in a crawl space is never desirable. It causes so many problems:

Water attracts pests

Mold and fungus can grow fast.

Mold produces allergens and affect your respiratory system.

Hantavirus from pests. (HCF)

Microbial growth. This can lead to headaches, etc.

Actually I’ve done a few dozen projects on the Oregon coast and everything just doesn’t dry out and go away...even on the mid-coast area where it blows hard all the time. We’ll spend what it takes to get rid of standing water...drain it, pump it, do what you have to but don’t let it stand or you’ll have severe problems.
Here’s an article that helps explain:
https://www.nachi.org/crawlspace-hazards-inspection.htm
Google crawl space moisture and you’ll find many more articles too.
Note: These are just the health risks...not to mention construction problems.
To locate the problem, call an inspector. Water can be from a rising water table (seasonal) or from a roof drain directed towards the house.


One dead outlet in 3 way switched circuit

There should be wires bertween the two outlets, check the connections to the working outlet are sound.


Pro T705 thermostat: heat kicks on when it drops below 64.5 despite it being set to kick on at 60

It's probably "adaptive intelligent recovery".  That is, the thermostat learns about the building's heat loss and capacity of the heating system.   So if you want the wake up temp at 73  by 8:00 AM, the tstat "learns" that it takes 2 hours (just an example) to get there, so it turns the heating system on at 6:00.  From your graph (impressive, BTW), it doesn't seem like it's turning the system on during the night, only in the early morning to get to temp by the time you set as "wake up" temp. What you might be seeing is the space just hadn't cooled down to 60 before it was "time to turn on the system" to get you to your 73 degree set point by when you wanted it.


Flooring Subfloor Condition How smooth it has to be

I would use an angle grinder with a concrete surfacing disk.
These have carbide or diamond embedded blocks and will really clean up high points in a floor. Any bumps will affect the floor and the area around it.


Master Shower Won't Get Hot Unless Another Faucet is Turned On

I had a similar problem and it was the the anti-scald function of the shower faucet(which works off water pressure).  I had to pull the handle and trim off of the shower valve and adjust the valve with a little allen wrench.


How to connect multiple light fixtures to one switch?

Basically, you want to start with a switch.  You run a black and white wire in from the bottom  of the switch box (from the panel).  This will take the form of 12/2 or 14/2 cable. You run another 12/2 or 14/2 cable from the top of the switch box to the first light. You connect the black wire to the switch.  You connect the 2 white wires together, and then connect the other terminal on the switch to the black wire of the cable leaving this junction box towards the first light.  The ground wire should also be connected together in this manner, but to the ground terminal on the switch.  Each light will have a cable "entering" (from the switch) and "exiting" (away from the switch).  At each light you'll connect the entering and exiting black wires together, as well as 1 terminal on the light.  Do the same with the white wires.  If there is a ground terminal on the light, do that as well, otherwise just connect the incoming and outgoing ground wires together.  At the last light, just connect the incoming black wire to 1 terminal on the light, and then connect the white wire to the other one.  This method is called wiring in parallel, so if one light blows, the current can still continue to the other lights to light them up.

Some other things to be aware of:

Most home wiring is either 12 or 14 gauge, corresponding to either a 20 amp or a 15 amp circuit, respectively.  The maximum "design capacity" is 80% of that.  Let's say you're using a 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge wire.  This circuit should run at no more than 16 amps.  Let's assume you're using 100 watt bulbs at 120 volts.  Using watts/volts = amps, for 600 watts/120 volts = 5 amps.  So this would work fine on a 15 amp breaker, depending on what else is on that circuit.  http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/ is also a superb reference for novice electricians to get an idea of how things work.

Something like this is what you're looking for the end result to be:


First off, get yourself a new GFCI with screw terminals and do not use the back-stabs... those are trouble waiting to happen.
When you are adding the new receptacle down stream of the GFCI, it is not an extension of the old WIRING, it is an extension of the CIRCUIT. No restrictions there, so even if it is K&T (I also question that), you are fine.
The potentially problematic issue if it IS K&T is if it is also an MWBC (Multi Wire Branch Circuit), i.e. one where the neutral is shared by one or more other hot circuits. When you do that with a GFCI, it will cause nuisance tripping. But the fact that you HAVE a GFCI in there now, and we assume it has been working, would indicate it is not an MWBC.


How to clean an induction hob from scorching?

We use Bon Ami to clean our cooktop and it removes everything. But you can buy other products specifically designed not to scratch like Soft Scrub.


What is the minimum distance an electrical outlet can be from an exterior door?

There is no minimum distance specified in the NEC. It can be as close as is physically possible given the constraints of framing, trim, etc. There's several rules about maximum distance and spacing and when to include door swings or not, and what constitutes a usable wall requiring outlets in the first place. But no minimum.

Now, conceivably, someone could interpret that since the outlet is within 6 feet of a "damp" area (patio) that it may need to be GFCI protected. I personally believe this stretching the intent of the NEC too far since the theoretical appliance in a damp area would have it's cord running through an open exterior door into a different room.

There could be other requirements by Washington state or your local jurisdiction. The NEC is mute on this matter, but you should inquire with your local building authority to be absolutely sure there are no other applicable requirements or "creative" interpretations of GFCI requirements.


You should be able to tighten the nut slightly to stop the drip. If it is frozen do not force it since the nut could crack and cause a worse problem as @dandavis  commented. If you can back off the nut you could repack the valvr but I would call a plumber or HVAC person to do it unless you have experience repacking valves.


If your question is about the air ducts, why not use the correct material for the job, rather than silicone caulk. Duct sealant is, literally, made for the job. It also costs less, on a quick look.


Can you re-shape an internal brick wall feature?

Warning

The process of modifying gas piping and combustion vent components requires technical expertise to avoid serious life safety hazards both during construction and future operation of the appliance.

Broad Answer

Given the willingness to devote sufficient resources in the forms of money and time, virtually all construction projects within the bounds of physics are possible. Determining what constitutes sufficient resources beforehand is really the rub for renovation projects  Without xrays it's hard to know what is behind the wall even when you're standing in front of it.

Over the internet it's even harder because there is less information available and the context is left to the imagination. The inverted 'V' could be entirely non-structural brick veneer and contain nothing more than a gas vent, or it could be a critical seismic component of a multi-story building and have both fire sprinkler pipes and a main electrical bus running through it.

The former requires fewer resources. The latter requires somewhat more.

Whether this is a do it yourself project depends on your capabilities and resources.


How can I route a 4" duct through a partition wall framed with 2x4s?

A 3" pipe has roughly half the cross-sectional area of a 4" pipe (28.3 in2 vs. 50.3). You need to maintain that size as a 4" duct is already quite small. Even if you had a larger duct to begin with that's too much of a reduction.
Use the rectangular parts and/or oval ducts that meet your current flow requirements.


You are probably quite far from over-specified, if you have significant deflection from walking around. Such are the breaks of self-taught structural engineering, particularly if you don't use the resources of formal structural engineering in your self-teaching.

That which will stand up, and that which will stand up without unacceptable deflection from loading are different things. How this structure behaves in the face of various external loads should also be a concern; you refer to it as a house, and when houses collapse (say, in hurricane force winds) people get hurt or die.

Steel-framed floors are almost always built with a truss structure which has considerable depth, to provide stiffness to the structure. You appear to have a single layer of square tubes.

I would strongly suggest a consultation with a (licensed, professional) structural engineer.


This was caused a small rubber seal, which they call the seat. Briggs & Stratton Carburetor Needle and Seat picture:

The needle and seat are sold as a package for about $5.  You have to take the carburetor apart to install it.


The metal threshold will support itself over that span with no issue. You won't want to leave it without the boards under it for the long term, though, as it will bend under the weight of people stepping on the unsupported metal, but for the short term of the construction project (where it's getting little to no use and you can remember to not step on it) it will be just fine.
Also, I highly doubt you'll need a saw to remove that wood there, just the careful application of a pry bar. Those pieces should be nailed to the wall and there shouldn't be any attachment to the threshold or the ends of the siding.
Also, check with your contractor - what does he expect to find when she gets there to do the actual install?

Will he butt the granite directly against the foundation?

Then don't put anything in their way.

Will she install a joint expansion strip?

Is this something you could do for them?

Is there anything else you can do to make their job easier, or do they want you to stay away so they don't have to correct anything that's not to their spec (and a potential cause for disagreement later if something goes wrong).

You will definitely want to replace the trim after the steps are installed. This way you can ensure that you have a nice tight fit under the door and to the top of the step. If you install it before hand, it might be in the way or even get damaged during the installation.
Composite/PVC trim would be an appropriate material to use here when you do replace that trim material. You'll probably need 2 layers to bring it back out from the outside wall of the house to be flush with the bottom of the threshold.

Be sure to caulk the ends of the trim pieces (both of them) where they butt up against the siding to ensure water can't leak behind.

Be sure to apply a thick bead of caulk to the top of the trim where it meets up with the bottom of the threshold.

To get the boards slipped between the step and threshold while not wiping all the caulk off, cut a bit of a bevel on the bottom of the trim board so it can go in at a slight angle, top first, then be pushed nice & tight against the wall, the step and the threshold.

Attach each board individually to the wall, just be sure to offset the screws to that you don't run the outer board's screws into the ones beneath.

Ask the contractor what kind of sealant they recommend between the bottom of the trim and the top of the step (if any).

Not putting a sealant here might be preferred as it allows a path for water to escape if it should happen to get behind the trim. Again, ask them.

You can get screws (with a driver bit) specifically for PVC trim. The ones I got included a driver with a depth stop and a set of plugs to cover the screw heads. They're essentially invisible once the plugs are in place. Worth the extra few bucks in my opinion.

I don't think nails are really recommended for PVC trim - it's too easy to over drive them and the hammer will dent the material if you miss.


How to remove old light switches, leave circuit always on?

You also need to consider the Electrical Code, which absolutely requires a light switch in the expected location, and requires that the switch turn on a light.  (in some cases this can be a switched receptacle, but the homeowner is expected to fit a light there.)

Why should light switches be required?  Why can't you choose to turn your lights on any way you please?  First responders.

an EMT who needs to reach you right now
a fireman trying to find your child or pet
a SWAT team needing to see your hands do not contain a gun

If any of these guys have to pause to fiddle with lights, that might not go your way.


How does the temperature sensor work in an attic fan?

How the temp sensor works.

The temperature sensor in a fan such as yours operate as a thermostat. As such there is a scheme in place to open and close a switch based upon the temperature that is sensed. There are various schemes and mechanisms used, some of them mechanical and others electrical or electronic. The most common scheme used is a metal strip or spring that is made of two layers of metal that have differing coefficients of thermal expansion. When the bi-metal strip is exposed to a particular temperature the shape will be static. As the temperature changes the two metals expand or contract at different rates and cause the metal strip to bend one way or the other. The metal strip can be the actual part of a switch with the bi-metal strip being a contact that opens and closes the power circuit directly as it moves. There are other designs where the bi-metal strip may be mechanically connected to a linkage that opens and closes the switching contacts. The knob that adjusts the temperature setting in a switch like this will either move the metal strip mounting so that it has to move more or less to close/open the switch OR it will simply apply pressure on the metal strip such that it has to bend harder or less hard to achieve the switch closure.

Troubleshooting the problem.

You already said that you checked the power source at the fan so that you can skip that item on my list of items to look for.

Here are some things to try >>

Check that the power feed is making it directly to the wires of the fan assembly?
Check to see if there is a separate switch mounted on the fan assembly that needs to be turned on.
There may be a built-in overload circuit breaker on the fan assembly with the pop out type button. Check to see if such thing needs resetting.
Recheck the installation from the manufacturer data sheet to see if the power wiring is connected properly.


In a gangbox with switches on two different circuits, how can I identify which neutrals are associated with which circuit?

Are the breakers adjacent?  If so, you're probably looking at a multi-wire branch circuit which should--but doesn't--have an approved tie-bar device between the two breakers, and which would use one neutral for both sides of the circuit.

Multi-wire branch circuits are safe when both branches are powered and when both branches are off.  They can in some cases be dangerous if one side is powered and the other isn't.

If this isn't multi-wire branch circuit wiring, I doubt that it's safe at all.  It appears that black and blue are two hot wires entering from #5, which has one neutral return.  If black and blue are anti-phase, as in a multi-wire branch circuit, the maximum current on the neutral will be the difference between the current on the black and blue wires, so the neutrals cannot be overloaded without tripping a breaker.  If they're not wired anti-phase, however, the current on the neutral wire will be the sum of the currents on the black and blue wires.  If devices on each circuit are drawing 20A, the current in the neutral wire will be 40A--dangerously overloaded.


What is the best way to cut receptacle holes when hanging drywall?

My experience says to use the rotary tool, but I have always used metal boxes with plaster rings.  I have no experience cutting drywall over plastic boxes.  I do have three pointers for cutting with a rotary tool:

Put as little pressure on the box from the drywall as possible.  The more pressure against the drywall, the more likely that you'll get tearout near the edge of the box.
Leave any NM cable sheathed and set the depth of the cut to the minimum possible to reach the box plus a half an inch (keeping in mind that the drywall will be at an angle to the box).
Always take a few seconds to visualize your cut.  Have a good idea of where your corners are so you can anticipate direction changes.  Do a sanity check and make right sure you know which way counterclockwise is.  Start out going clockwise, and you'll spend a lot of time repairing drywall.

If you still don't want to use the rotary tool, there is another option.  There are tools that attach to plastic electric boxes.  You put them on and then position the drywall where it will be installed.  Press the drywall against the tool, and it will place small perforations at the outside corners of the box.  Connect the dots and cut.  The image below is of one of mine, but I haven't had the chance to use it yet.


Help powering new light and switch off existing switch

Stop.  You can't just grab any old wire.

You need two specific wires: (always) hot, and neutral.  And they need to come from the same cable.  This point is very important for not setting up a current loop, causing wire vibration, eddy current heating, and arc failures.

Now, switches which have a white wire are no help.  Normal switches don't take neutral, so when you see a white wire going to a plain switch, that wire is not neutral (and should have been marked, but the installer shortcutted as usual).  So the cables going to those switches can be disregarded.

I see two switches with no white wires, and that means they probably have a real neutral somewhere in the box.  You should see a wire-nutted bundle of all-white wires.  So you need to find that bundle, and follow those whites back to their cables.  Among the other wires in one of those cables, you should be able to find an always-hot. If not, you're out of luck, and will have to tap somewhere else.


Putting portable air conditioner hose in bucket of water

This won't work in that simplified form. Even if the water did absorb a bit of heat as the air passed through, the water would heat up fairly quickly, at which point it would stop absorbing heat from the air. "Dissipation" doesn't mean "disappeared". The heat still exists somewhere. You'd have to change the water regularly. Also, you'd be adding moisture to the air via evaporation and possibly effervescence, countering the cooling effect of the air conditioner.

Now, if you wanted to split the airflow into many tiny tubes, provide a large quantity of cold water, and change the water regularly, it could work. Maybe. But probably not very well.


What happens if you don't bond neutral and ground in a main service panel?

Maybe if you owned the transformer

Imagine you had total control of the transformer.  (which you probably don't). You would be able to assure that the neutral-ground bond did not exist anywhere.  If you accomplished this, and didn't have any defects in your wiring, then you would have an isolated system which I discuss here.

There are advantages and disadvantages. As I discuss, the first ground-fault isn't dangerous. It merely biases the system (like a ground strap would do); just at an unexpected and unplanned voltage.  A hot-ground fault pegs that hot as 0V from ground; neutral is 120V and the other hot is 240V.  On the other hand, a supply transformer primary-secondary fault pegs your wires at 2400V from ground.  Is your toaster insulated for 2400V?  I'm guessing not.

Another disadvantage I didn't discuss is that -- remember that power wants to return to source, not ground.  Except lightning does want to get to ground.  So does ESD.  If your toaster isn't insulated for 2400V, it's probably not ready for a 50kA lightning hit.  Shuffle your feet across the carpet and zap the toaster chassis with static electricity, where does it go?  Can't go to ground, the toaster has a 2-prong cord. Without a neutral-ground bond, it will be efficiently carried to every device, even the ones that are "turned off" - neutral isn't switched.

Remember, hot and neutral are not isolated -- they are bonded, with a bias.  A 120V bias assuming the transformer is turned on.  A transformer winding has very low resistance.

... Hazardous if you don't own the transformer

Most likely, the transformer is owned by the power company, and they have a neutral-ground bond at the transformer.  And several other houses are served by the same transformer, and each has a neutral-ground bond.

So what happens if you have a bolted (zero ohm) hot-ground fault?

It's flowing into your grounding system, as intended.  It wants to get back to source (neutral).  It will follow all available paths in inverse proportion of their resistance.  Where does it go?  Not directly to neutral, because you didn't bond it.  So where?

"Okay, it'll go through my healthy grounding system, to Earth, across Earth to a neighbor or the transformer.  Because Earth is magic."  Nope -- earth is dirt. Dirt is a lousy conductor.

Not enough current will flow to pull your grounding system back to 0V where it belongs.  So it will raise the voltage of your grounding system to near 120.

Now every grounded surface that was meant to be safe - the cover plate screws on light switches, your PC, your refrigerator, your dishwasher - is now energized near 120V.  Via the grounding rod, it also raises the voltage of the earth around your house to 120V, causing all kinds of weirdness.

What's more, because it won't flow enough current (20A) to trip a breaker, it won't trip a breaker. So this fault will continue indefinitely.  How would you even know it was there?  You'd live normally until something extreme brought it to your notice.  What would that even be?

I've heard of a situation where a landline phone wouldn't ring. The repairman, calling to confirm a repair date, asked how the customer knew to pick up the phone.  "My dog yelps", they said.

Uncontained electricity is crazy stuff.


Electrical dimmer switches for 4 switch locations?

There's more than one option!

As ThreePhaseEel points out, Multi-location dimming is one option.

However, depending on usage, specifically the case where the lights will mostly always dimmed at the same level or just having the dimming capability at one location with the existing switch still in operation at the other 3 locations. That is, you'll replace one of the existing 3-way locations, leaving remaining switches untouched.

If this is the case look for just ONE 3-way PRESET dimmer.

One example: Lutron LED compatible PRESET dimmer: http://a.co/aIBfTR0

(Ariadni, Toggler, Diva are all examples of preset in Lutron's product line) (Disclaimer, I don't work for Lutron. I do spec a lot of Lutron product for customers in my day job, as such I know the product lines--my only bonus for selling Lutron is the Lutron rep does take me to lunch 4 times a year.)

If dimmed the same all the time, this solution will be far less pricey than Multi-location, not to mention easier installation.

The only con is that one of the existing 3way locations (not a 4-way) must be picked for the replacement dimmer. If you open up the existing and find the switch has 4 screw terminals, just stop and put it back together and move on to another location.  If the switch you take apart has 3 terminals then the PRESET dimmer can be installed in that location.

Here is a wiring diagram for a 4 location switching. In the diagram, the center two switches are the 4-way switches, the outer two switches are 3-way switches.


The tank to stool interface for most units is pretty much the same. So if it looks like the two holes used to secure the tank to the stool match up and the center water passage hole under the flapper valve is in the same location you should be good to go (at least in the USA).

Re-using old seals can be a problem and lead to leaks. When you mount up the salvaged tank you should replace the bolt seals and the seal that sits between the tank and the stool.

The reason the seals need replacing is that they harden with age, lose compliance and can even sometimes crack. Part of this relates to the chlorine in the water. The tank to tub seal also can take on a compressed shape and if the salvage tank is not exactly the same form and fit in the seal area you can have a leak problem.

I would recommend getting a tank mounting kit that includes the seals and new tank attach bolts and throw the old parts away. Probably also a good idea to replace the flapper valve at the same time.


Should I use a stripper or sander to remove paint on my deck?

The wood looks to be in good shape; this is fortunate. I think your best bet is to use a large drum sander from a rental place; just make sure all the nails/screws are sunk below the level of the boards. If you use small power tools, it will take a lot of time, effort, and sandpaper. If you plan to re-use the spindles and they are painted, a grinder worked better for me than any orbital or belt sander.


How many fixtures can run off a transformer?

Provided you don't have ridiculously long runs of wire between the transformer and fixtures, a 100W transformer should be able to run five 20W fixtures OK.  Make sure you use the correct Voltage light bulbs in the fixtures.


Tiny screws/bolts/other fastener - what is it and how do I get it out?

It's a rivet.  You can drill it out with a metal twist drill, countersink, or countersink deburring bit.


Do I need to patch the hole in my bathroom drywall behind the vanity?

That does not even qualify as a hole as the back of the drywall is not broken. Just push some drywall mud, vinyl Spackle or caulking into it and call it good. you don't even need to make it pretty, just make sure it flush with the wall so it does not interfere with the vanity.


In 2/3/4 gang box, should you combine all grounds using crimp connectors?

You have to connect a ground wire to every device's ground terminal, that's not optional.  There's lots of ways to do it.

You could crimp pigtails in the crimp ring, as long as you don't exceed the capacity of the crimp ring.

One good way to go is leave one ground wire very long, and pass that through the crimp ring and hit all the ground terminals on the devices with that one long wire.

If you don't have a long one, you could crimp in one long pigtail, and hit all the ground terminals with that one long pigtail.


Are tamper resistant outlets required in a cabinet with child proof latches?

In NEC 2008 Tamper Resistant receptacles are covered in section 406.11

406.11 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles in Dwelling Units. In all areas specified in 210.52, all 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles
shall be listed tamper resistant receptacles.

Since section 210.52 specifies receptacles located within cabinets or cupboards, even those receptacles in the cabinet used to supply disposals are required to be tamper resistant.

210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. This section provides requirements for 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacle outlets. The receptacles required by this section shall be in addition to any receptacle that is:
(1) Part of a luminaire or appliance, or
(2) Controlled by a wall switch in accordance with 210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, or
(3) Located within cabinets or cupboards, or
(4) Located more than 1.7 m (51.2 ft) above the floor

NEC 2011 revised section 406.11 to 406.12 and added some exceptions.

406.12 Tamper Resistant Receptacles in Dwelling Units. All non-locking type 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles in a dwelling unit (210.52) must be Listed as Tamper Resistant, excluding the following locations:
• Receptacles located more than 5 ½ ft above the floor
• Receptacles that are part of a luminaire or appliance
• Receptacles located within dedicated space for an appliance that in normal use isn't easily moved
• Non-grounding receptacles used for replacements as permitted in 406.4(D)(2)(a)

However, none of these exceptions exclude under cabinet receptacles. If you're replacing the receptacle under the cabinet or installing a new receptacle under the cabinet, it must be tamper resistant. Having a lock on the cabinet door has no bearing on the code.


Can anyone explain this strange 3-way wiring? Trying to install a motion sensor switch

3-way switches can seem a little bit like magic, I suppose. ;-)

What happens is that power comes into one switch on the "common," travels to the other switch over one of the "travelers," depending on the position of the switch, and then depending on the position of the switch on the far end, power will travel out of that common to the light(s). If the 14-3 or 12-3 wire only runs between the switches (not through the light fixture), then the "common" in that cable will be the hot conductor coming back from the far switch, in which case it should be connected to one of the black wires, which supplies power to the light. But if the red/black/white cable runs through the light fixture, it might be wired up differently.

In your case, it looks like power is probably coming into the box with the multiple "romex" cables entering it. One of the incoming 14-2 or 12-2 cables brings power in, and the other takes power to the light. That means the white wires in those black/white cables are neutrals, while none of the 3 wires connected to the switches are neutrals.

Your occupancy switch requires a neutral connection in order to function.


Tub cracked side lip, replace or patch up?

If you try to repair that crack then the complete length needs supporting as it is flexing too much.

I had one where we noticed the flex early and I fitted a beam with supports underneath - made access a bit more difficult but still ok.

Seen one where the next crack developed a short distance down from the repair so think carefully about the real cause as well.


Tile floor installation on top of hardwood

Yes. Just make sure you use fiberglass mesh on top of the backer and use a good quality polymer modified mortar to install the tiles.

Backerboard subfloors are a cheapout way of avoiding the installation of a proper lath and mortar base (there is simply no comparison). If you choose this route, there is nothing to bind the floor together (which prevents cracking). using a fiberglass mesh interface membrane will help to act as a mechanical binder for the tile floor to be laid.

The use of polymer modified mortars instead of simple cementitious mortars makes a huge difference in how well the wet "stick" of the tiles makes sure there is a high percentage interstitial bond between the tile and the subfloor. This makes sure that once it sets up, the tile has no ability to move in relation to the mesh/backer assembly. This ensures that even if there are minute voids between subfloor and the backer--the footprint of the tile is spread as wide as possible through the backer to the subfloor. The intention of this approach is to remove any chance of decoupling of the tiles.


What could be causing this strange intermittent sound?

My best guess (not knowing the model of refrigerator) is a faulty door timer or over-temperature sensor. A beep sounds on various models to remind you that you've left the door open too long.


Can I safely cut a copper compressor pipe with r600a gas?

Venting a flammable gas may be safe as long as there are no sources of ignition in the area and the gas has time to dissipate. Kind of like having a propane or LP gas cylinder filled once the cylinder is full they vent the gas between the pipe and fill valve. Outside away from ignition sources this is considered safe so I would expect the same to be true with the isobutane.


The provision you're using is a bit of a fool's errand for most detached structures
The provision in the NEC you're relying on (using GFCI protection at the source end of the buried run to allow for a 12" burial depth with UF cable) is a bit of a fool's errand when feeding a detached structure, as it turns out.  Why? As it turns out, it's not terribly uncommon for things to develop ground faults (vs tripping breakers, even), and if something does trip the GFCI, you'd really rather not have it turn the lights out on you, especially if that something is a circular saw with a rapidly spinning blade on its business end that has a bit of momentum to it.
As a result, it's normally better to accept having to bury the cable or conduit deeper in exchange for having the lighting on a non-GFCI branch, with a GFCI receptacle or deadfront inside the shed providing protection to the receptacles there.  If you're willing to live with that limitation for now, though, given that all you're dealing with are lights and the occasional battery charger, there still are a couple of other points you'll need to keep in mind.
You'll need some sort of disconnecting means at the structure
You'll need a disconnect where power comes into the shed.  If you want an outdoor disconnect, the easiest and cheapest way to do that is using a non-fused pullout disconnect of the type used for air conditioner outdoor units; you could also use one of those inside the shed if you don't care about anyone ever finishing the inside, or you could use a 20A key-operated lightswitch such as a Leviton 1221-2WL in an ordinary box for an indoor disconnect instead since you are only dealing with a single branch circuit.
From there, you don't need to worry about damp
Since this shed has a reasonably functional roof on it, you don't need to treat it as a damp location per se, but there is some cause to be concerned about physical abuse given that there are no studs to speak of in such a shed, so it's much easier for boxes to pinch cables.  As a result, using MC or EMT is not an unreasonable decision in your situation. Note that push-fit connectors are available for both wiring methods, so you don't have to worry about setscrews, clamps, compression nuts, or such; however, you will need to use metal boxes unless you want to do all the inter-connector bonding yourself.  If you do go the cable route, by the way, look at MCI-A type cables (MCAP™ or equivalent) -- these combine the advantages of MC and AC cables in that they need neither the ground wire makeup required with traditional MC nor the "redhead" anti-short bushings required with AC cable; some products even manage to eliminate the normal assembly tape from the equation.


Can I hang cabinets and shelves on metal studs?

From my research, it seems like snap toggles are highly recommended, and for your situation with metal studs, I think they would work since the approximate weight you are estimating is 60 lbs. Snaptoggles (aka toggle straps aka toggler bolts) claim to hold over 200 lbs in 1/2" drywall.

I have yet to use them myself, so it would be cool if another member here can comment on them.

How did your project work out? Did you mount your cabinets? I am looking for similar info as I also just moved into a high-rise building and my apartment wall has metal studs, so I researching solutions to mount my tv.


Can quartz be sealed? If so, would it have beneficial effects?

I'd suggest finding the local stone supplier (possibly through your local kitchen installer), and ask them.

It sounds like your quartz is more porous than usual is you are getting stains on it - unless you leave wine on it for hours you should normally have time to wipe it up.

Normally quartz benchtops aren't very porous, and so don't take up spilled liquids. This also means they don't take up sealant very well. Maybe your bench will take a sealant since it is more absorbent, but you'd be better talking to someone who can inspect your bench first, or even knows the quarry your stone came from.

I wouldn't expect sealing the bench to be harmful, if using usual stone sealing products.


Moisture collecting underneath condo terrace deck boards

You should replace the boards with composite decking.
I don't know what the old boards were or how old they were.  A roof top deck that covers a membrane is always going to have moisture.
The deck structure looks to be 12" oc so you should be good to use composite.
If you flood the membrane with water chances are there are low spots that pool the water for portions of the year.  It will never be perfectly dry in there.  You don't want larger gaps in between your boards unless you want to loose coins, keys, etc in between the boards.  Larger gaps would probably help somewhat with ventilation but I doubt it would be a magic fix.


Is there an "inside box" switch (for smart lighting)

First, if you're not familiar with how to do electrical, hire in a handyman.  Most jurisdictions consider swapping a light switch or fixture to not require pulling of a permit/electrician.
Second, make sure that your lighting product is actually safe and certified for use.  That means it will have a listing from UL, ETL, or CSA. Be extremely skeptical of items shipped from either China or an Amazon fulfillment center, or bought on eBay, Amazon Marketplace, DealExtreme, Wish, Banggood, AliExpress etc. Chinese knockoffs have been flooding the market, and they are not safe (and are not legal because they are not safe).
With that resolved, all the competent US products I'm aware of which have smart lights and also a remote switch, have designed the switches to allow mounting in a standard junction box.  It mounts up like a normal switch even though it takes no wires and runs on battery.
So the intended installation is to remove the original switch, tie its two hot wires together (so effectively it's "always on"), and now there is an empty hole where the switch used to be. As I say, the products I've seen are designed to physically fit in that hole and mount up like a standard switch.  The ground wire need not be attached to the battery powered switch, however, if it is a metal box the ground wire must go to the metal box.
The cosmetic cover plate may also need to be changed, ordinary switches take a 1" x 1/2" slot opening, and these smart switches tend to take a 1-1/2" x 3" (-ish) "Decora" plate opening.  These cover plates are readily available at home stores in a variety of colors.


How do I fix the twist mechanism on a blind?

I would repair this by fitting a short piece of aluminum, copper or brass tubing over the nubbin of the shaft. This can be glued in place using epoxy. Before installation the end of the tubing can be worked to make a new end to engage the wand. The simplest (working with copper is especially nice) way would be to squeeze the end of the tubing flat. Then trim the corners of the flattened section to a rounded end profile. Finally make a hole in the end that can take a ring linkage from the adjustment wand.

I was going to draw a picture of the idea but it was faster to just make a sample of the proposal. Just choose the tubing with an inner diameter that is close to the size of the nubbin. The hole for the linkage gets drilled through the flattened end. Before trying to apply the epoxy in the tube do use a Q-Tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol to clean away any possible oil film left from the manufacturing of the tubing.


Why does my oven temperature keep rising?

The thermocouple insures that the flame is on, it's used to shut the gas off if the flame goes out.  Your problem sounds more like a thermostat.  The thermostat measures the temperature of the oven, and is used to determine when to turn the flame on and off.  Check the manufactures documentation for thermostat troubleshooting and replacement information.

Components in the range could have been damaged while being moved, if the range was not handled with care.


Can I recess electrical panel deeper than usual?

Yeah, no.  Panels do not work like switches and outlets.  You can't jack the panel cover outward and use longer screws and have a drywall trim ring between panel cover and panel.  No way.  Not least, the breakers will fall out.  Because the relationship between cover and panel must be precise; it's the only thing holding them in!

You also can't bury the panel cover behind drywall, because as any regular visitor here has memorized, panel covers must be accessible without any tools and without modifying the house in any way.

Your only option is to stop the additional drywall layer a couple inches before it reaches the panel cover, and hide the jagged drywall edge with a simple piece of wood trim around the perimeter, like a picture frame.  Finally, a use for that miter box!

ThreePhaseEel makes the point that a "picture frame" (and the drywall itself) intrudes on the "box" of open space that must be kept clear for a person to access and maintain the panel. That open-space "box" starts at the face of the panel and is 36" deep. It is 30" wide but need not be centered, and is 78" (6'6") tall.

However, I see no problem with what is described, for obvious reasons.  I don't stand with my toes planar with the front of the panel (that would be very cramped, eh?) so I don't care about the wall being 3/4" thicker. Disclaimer here: I have an installation just like OP, that violates this in a statutory way, but is of no genuine inconvenience to the installer, and I really like the installation (it's a tasteful cabinet door concealing electrical and phone boxes). So of course I'd say this, wouldn't I?

However you would either need to get a variance from your AHJ, which I would think would be no trouble; or simply have the "picture frame" stop short of the open-space "box".  In my case, the cover was done by a predecessor whose other work is impeccable, so I presume he got a variance :)


How to remove this adhesive, is it a hard job?

It’s funny we have had several questions with these tiles lately, the adhesive is asphalt based or it appears to be the same as I have seen many times and it will clean up with mineral spirits but takes a fair amount of work.

Since those tiles are usually asbestos filled for the last 20 years I have recommend removing loose ones filling the void and overlaying.

I have put down epoxy /pebble , carpet and regular tile and vinyl floor coverings over this type of tile, it looks like you are having better luck at removing the tiles so maybe that stuff is drying out, but use caution as the tiles did normally contain asbestos.

So yes it is a lot of work to clean it up and leaving the tiles in place may be a better plan unless they are loose , normally Around the edge I find a few loose ones.
I use self leveling compound to fill the void it has stayed in place well even where vinyl flooring was glued over the top and the epoxy pebble (yes it can be done indoors and looks much better than a heavily cracked 1920’s floor).


I believe your laws are similar to the US. As long as the product is listed for the purpose you want to use them they would be legal. I have both Thomas&Betts and 3M brands and both labels show them to be UL listed 105 deg C , 600v building wire, or 1000v sign lighting luminary. This is all the proof I need. I don't use the "imported" super cheap products because they don't come with listing information if I can't prove there listed I can't use them. But since they are a splice they require a box or control panel to enclose them that is accessible.


What could cause water to leak from the top of the fridge?

The drain line that usually leads from under the condensor coils to a pan under the fridge may have frozen solid when you turned the temp down. That'd let water accumulate between freezer and fridge compartments. Try defrosting w doors open for a few hours. That should clear the tube.


What are my options for a fire rated door for a 32" x 36" rough opening?

You could add 5/8" (16 mm) sheetrock to the back of the door.  That would make it a fire rated surface.  If that matched up with the sheetrock at the right, it would be almost a continuous surface.  If I had to live with it, that is what I would do.

If it is to sell the house, the new owners either won't be used to the access or won't know about it.  Sheetrocking it in would be cheap and easy.


Why is the water in my freshly filled above ground pool green?

If you get a bag or 2 of shock treatment it will help knock the algae out. This time of year I find the toughest to keep my pool clean as the water is warming and it gets away fast shock treatment brings the chlorine levels up. The link is for a small box of bags I usually loose control several times a year when I forget to put a chlorine tablet in the skimmer after all the kids and grand kids are over. If you treat it quickly it will only take a day or 2 to clear up if you let it wait a week it may take a week or more to clear up. Vacuuming the bottom and sides will also help reduce the growth. If you don't have a test kit these test strips are very easy to use to track the chlorine and PH levels of the water. Muriatic acid and baking soda are used to raise and lower the PH. A proper PH level will also help to stabilize the water. The last thing I use is blue clarify. This helps the water to be crystal clear and sparkly 1 bottle usually last an entire year as it only takes a little and I only use it if the water starts to appear less clear. Last make sure your filter is clean back wash or clean the filter elements you don't see all the gunkies growing in there and it is a great breading ground if not clean. Hope this helps and you get to enjoy your pool.


My circular old work electrical box is too small for the light fixture mounting bracket

Edit: Sorry, trim the screws

In electrical, screws are not sacrosanct.  If one is too long, you simply trim it.  That's why your stripper-crimper multi-tool has thread shears around the center pivot.

Wrong holes

This box has 2 sets of holes at 2 different spacings.

 The inner (closer) set of holes sit on inward sticking nubs.  Those are the ones you are trying to line up on.

 The outer (farther) set of holes sit pretty much on the rim of the box. They are 90 degrees from the other holes.  Try those.

The reason for the two spacings is the two sizes of steel octagon box (pictured).

The older, now largely obsolete 3-1/2" trade size (3-1/2" across corners, 3" across flats) had 2-3/4" screw spacing.
The current 4" trade size (4" across corners, 3-1/2" across flats) has 3-1/4" screw spacing.


Is the electrical outlet by my kitchen sink supposed to be protected by a GFCI?

If there is an upstream GFCI device protecting that outlet it is fine.

See if any other outlet in the kitchen has a test and reset button, when you test it and it trips does the outlet by the sink also lose power? If so then the outlet is protected by the GFCI.

The GFCI device can also be the breaker in the panel feeding the circuit. So check there as well.

If you find that they are protected by GFCI take your label printer and print out a "GFCI protected" label to put on the outlet.


Grounding 200A Main Panel with Changes to Water & Gas

Grounding Electrode System
You're going to have to install a grounding electrode system. This is typically done by driving two ground rods spaced at least 6' apart, and connecting the rods together using a properly sized bonding jumper.  Then you'll install a properly sized grounding electrode conductor, from one of the ground rods back to the main grounding bus in the main panel.
Bonding Water Piping
You may be able (required) to use the abandoned underground copper pipe as a grounding electrode, if it meets the criteria specified in the code. If the water is supplied to the building through metal pipe, you'll also have to bond the metal supply pipe to the grounding electrode system using a properly sized bonding jumper.
If the plumbing within the building will not be metallic, you don't have to bond it.
Bonding Gas Piping
As for bonding the gas pipe, according to the National Electrical Code, metal piping systems that are "likely to become energized" must be bonded (250.104(B)).  So if you have a gas water heater that has no electrical connection, then you don't have to bond the gas piping.  If you have a gas fired furnace, then it's possible that you'll have to bond the gas piping.
However, the bonding jumper only has to be sized to the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping.  NEC also allows you to bond the piping to the equipment grounding conductor, of the circuit that is likely to energize it.  Which means the gas pipe feeding the furnace, can be bonded to the equipment grounding conductor feeding the furnace.  And if the gas piping is isolated from the furnace electrical (not likely to become energized), you don't have to bond the piping at all.
In the case of the gas/electric range, again you can use the equipment grounding conductor of the circuit feeding the appliance, to bond the gas piping (if required).


Can cold bond be connected to ground rod?

In the 2014 NEC handbook there is an exhibit 250.22 that shows this case. There is only 1 wire coming from the electrode to the panel. I would have said this would not be code compliant but it is clearly shown that the wire from the grounding electrode can run to the pipe saving a bunch of wire in some cases. Good Question!


15 meter zinc gutter, flex enough to bend a little (0.5 degree)?

Galvanized steel will easily take a small strain like that. The normal yield strength of steel is not reached until total strain is 0.5% strain. That is ,it would need to be held in place to prevent "springback" at 0.5 strain.  However , 0.2 % is permanent strain ( no springback). Or , extreme case ,you bend it slightly ( I doubt that will be necessary).  If you want a 6 m ( about 20 ft) length with no seam you will need to use aluminum , not galvanized steel.


Strapping down a copper pipe with little access

No, I don't think you're over-complicating it. You don't want to just have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood floating around in there without securing it to the studs. There are a number of ways to do this type of job and your approach seems sound. Be sure to securely attach the 2x (screws or nails) and the 3/4 ply to the 2x.
Also, I noticed what appears to be moisture around the lower run of copper where it goes through the wall. I'm assuming that is the feed for your tub faucet. I'm further assuming that the moisture is from prior unsuccessful attempts to seal around the tub faucet and isn't a leak. If that's the case make sure you allow that to dry out thoroughly before you seal up the wall. Might want to use a hair dryer on it but remember the moisture is permeating the entire width of the drywall - don't just get it surface dry. Even with a hair dryer I'd leave it open for a day or two. Good luck.


You can retrofit a just ground wire back to the panel.

They broadly liberalized the rules for this in 2014 to allow this for almost any circuit -- but they had already liberalized the rules for dryer circuits some time prior. In fact, since the washer and dryer plugs both come out of the same service panel, they can share the ground wire.

Grounds don't need to be insulated (must be green or green/yellow if they are) and they don't need to follow the same route as the wiring they are grounding. They do have to be installed using proper wiring methods. Grounds must be large enough for the circuit they are protecting.

All the circuits out of that panel can share the ground, so it helps to run a "backbone" to the big appliances in #10 or #8, then tie everything else to that in reverse order of size. Splices are allowed in ground wiring, just do it legally in in junction boxes (which means pre-planning where those junction boxes would be useful when laying the backbone.)


What is the term for a bathroom tile which wraps around a backerboard edge?

There are quarter round tiles

and sink rail tiles

There is also a mud cap (also called radius cap)

One of these may work. You can search for corner tile to find other examples.

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


Plywood generally doesn't sag permanently unless it's been wet for an extended period of time. Can you get into the attic to check for water stains around those areas?


Can non-metallic cable go up a wall shaft for a furnace vent?

The first test would be to verify the area is not hotter than the wiring can handle. Romex is rated for 90 deg C or 194F.  The next check would be is the area being used as a plenum for the fresh air supply (some older homes used this airspace for environmental make up air ). If it is a plenum, romex is not plenum rated and may not pass an inspection if noticed (would need pipe) If just a hollow space romex would be ok as long as not two hot. EMT really would not help as far as temp is concerned and would limit the number of wires in the EMT or need to be derate based on the total current carying conductors.


Make 16 square meter room operable for two persons

Not possible if he's talking on Skype.  You two need to sync your sleep schedules, and that's that.  You'll need to address that with your parents.

The more sensible option, frankly, is to move the gaming PC to commons space (not bedroom), at which point brother will move too.  Having a PC in a shared bedroom is an outrageous situation.  Bedrooms are for sleeping, especially when they're shared.

These are all "parent-involved" solutions, and I gather you're reluctant to go down that road. Okay, then. If your brother wants to keep parents uninvolved, then he's gotta take the initiative to fix it.  He won't want to, of course.  But your brother is the vulnerable one here: your parents could take away that gaming PC just like that.  So if he wants to protect his gaming privileges, he's got to do the heavy lifting to solve this.

What about "narcing" or "telling on", the discouragement to go to authority figures?  OK, that's the school-yard bully system.  That trains you in life for one thing: the prison-yard bully system, and that is where you'll go if you train your brain to operate in the world that way.  Seriously, what happens if your customer wants you to fix problems with the electrical work they just paid you to do...  Are you gonna call em a dirty narc?  Take their lunch money?  Beat em up?  That doesn't work, they'll call your licensing board, and if necessary, the cops, and you won't be an electrician anymore.  And without that, how do you plan to provide for your family?   You don't.   So you say "Oh, I'll just magically switch to professionalism when that day arrives" - nope, real world, people don't rise to meet challenges, they fall back on habits or training.


Which caulk around the sink in kitchen is a health-safe?

In general silicone is very safe for living organisms including humans. Cake molds, pacifiers and breast implants are made from silicone.

To my knowledge every single sink installed in a table is installed using a silicone caulk. I have never seen a gasket for that purpose.

Most carpenters and plumbers would use a silicone rated for wet rooms to install a sink. That means that they have some kind of anti-fungal agent in them. I don't know about the toxicity of such agents, unfortunately. However, do remember that mold is indeed unhealthy.


I'm guessing it's the opposite (or same) reason as this question.

Some libraries have a listing room, you could try that but I don't think it's going to work. You have to be 'getting ready for bedtime'.

Until your brain shuts down enough, it strains to adapt its sensitivity to the room level. I'd say this happens to everyone, except I'm biased as a percussionist of many years. That's not to say my ears are all messed up; I hear digital noise (cell phones/video games) as if they were church bells going off and I can still detect a considerable Hz range for my age. (Anecdote: after his chemo treatment, a friend of mine couldn't hear above 14kHz.)

Some LED night lights whine like crazy. As do dimmers and the lights they dim.

Try a white noise generator. I prefer computers; it's way too quiet with mine off. For me when it happens, it seems to persist the more I concentrate on it, but it goes away as soon as any ambient noise is introduced.

Accurately capturing room noise is one of the holy grails of audio recording. I doubt that you have the means at your disposal to do so.

What Technique do you use for Room Tone recording?

  David Toop says the emptier the space of sound, the greater the apparent volume of sounds within it; the lower the level of auditory background, the more intense the listener’s awareness of minimal interferences.

But this is something different, I think. I'd have to read that entire wiki to see if there's something similar; temporary affects that induce tinnitus. Also (rhetorically), how old are you?

Subjective, indeed. Even now with two computers on, (stop) thinking about it so much; I hear it creeping on...


Voltage on the protective earth conductor?

As I've said elsewhere, phantom voltage shouldn't bite.

Yes, the Protective Earth wire will will pick up (via induction or capacitance, like a radio transmission) a very tiny amount of energy from the adjacent hot wire.  However, that should only register on a very sensitive meter, such as a DVM.

A low impedance meter should instantly exhaust the voltage, leaving no readable figure.

Alternately, you can put an ammeter across the connection and see how many amps want to flow.  If it's more than microamps, it isn't phantom voltage - and if it's more than 5 milliamps, it is a life safety threat, and at least in America, a GFCI (RCBO) would trip.

Given that your low-impedance meter still sees the voltage, and it throws a visible spark, this is genuine residual current leakage, and it needs to be dealt with.  You're lucky to catch this one; often, ground faults go through fourth routes that you wouldn't see on the earth wire.

Now you should begin removing appliances until the leak goes away. That will be the faulty appliance, and it's time to fix or replace it.

It might happen due to faulty wiring, but that generally happens when someone uses interior wiring in an outdoor location.  This does not sound like an outdoor location.


Household Wire Insulation (Asbestos Risk?)

I've been in the industry for over 40 years and have never heard of asbestos in the old wiring insulation. It is oil-impregnated cloth I believe. The more pressing problems that I see from your photo are that the cloth insulation may start to crumble off the copper conductors when you manipulate the wires and that the junction box appears to be overfilled. If the conductors have been run through metal conduit then you should be able to pull new wires if necessary. If the conductors are encased in armored cable conduit aka BX then you may need to call in a real sparky. If the box is indeed overfilled then you can install an extension ring and get creative with the fabrication of a little frame around the extension ring before installing the new fixture.


UK to East European shower pipe converter

It's very difficult to tell what your existing pipe is like, as there's a shower attached to it. However, I think your problem is that the existing pipe diameter is larger than the UK shower connection? In which case you need a reducing coupler.

Here's an example. But a) your existing pipe may be 1" rather than 22mm; and b) the fitting at the larger diameter end may not be suitable. However, if it were that simple, then your plumber should have been able to do it. So I suspect problem a). I'm sure somewhere must sell imperial to metric reducing couplers, but I haven't looked.

With regards to having an ugly converter sticking out the wall - your other option is to have the converter behind the tiles. This requires either 1) breaking out the tiles, then retiling a small area afterwards; or 2) coming at the wall from the other side (in which case you'd then need to replaster the other side of that wall). I personally did 2 when installing a new shower, as the tiles were installed by the previous owner, so I didn't have any spares, but it had been done recently so I didn't want to retile the whole bathroom. Option 1 shouldn't be too difficult, as you say you have retiled, so you should have access to identical replacement tiles.


I believe the vent is for combustion air. If there is no fresh air to the furnace and water heater this could create serious problems both with carbon monoxide and inefficient operation. If you block the large vent air may be pulled in from the vents on the water heater and furnace causing a buildup of carbon monoxide and because of the reduced fresh air the gas may not be completely burn. Plugging the fresh air vent could be quite hazardous and cost in inefficiency.


Can I heat one room and cool another with an in-wall AC?

I'm not an expert to tell you whether this is actually a good idea, but an AC unit used for heating is called a heat pump. There are two differences between "a heat pump" and "an air conditioner":

Heat pumps contain a reversing valve which reverses the operation so that what would usually be the cold side gets hot and the hot side cools instead.
The thermostat will be suitable for heating (turns on when too cold) as well as cooling (turns on when too warm), and also control the reversing valve to switch modes as needed.

In your case, you only care about the second feature. Thus, buying a heat pump to be installed through your wall is one possible solution which gives you a thermostat that works as desired without needing external control.

However, any prebuilt unit will also be designed to put the compressor noise on the "outside", which would be your bakery and might be less comfortable than making the proofer room noisy.

You could likely get a more pleasant result (noise in the proofer room instead) by getting a system designed and installed for the exact application by a HVAC technician; it would probably be slightly more expensive, but it wouldn't be particularly harder to install and maintain than a more usual cooling installation, I expect.


Jay, why not get a couple of precut stringers and 2X12 theads?  Put a 1X riser on the front, a 1X nailer on the top back and screw it to the building.  You can fancy it up later and use the same stringers.


how can I attach screws perpendicularly to an aluminum sheet

When you say "simple drill" is this an electric drill or hand-powered? If it's electric you should be able to drill into it with a decent drill bit. You can *generally use woodworking tools (saws, drills, files, etc) on aluminum, unless you have some sort of exotic hardened aluminum.

You can use epoxy to join aluminum. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry. A little scuffing with sandpaper would help it get a better grip.

This is dependent on the use for the item, also. If it is not highly stressed,  you should be fine.

*generally, as in not EVERY single wood working tool.


Will a widespread 8" offset faucet also replace an existing 12" offset faucet?

I know this isn't really supposed to be a "shop for you" kinda place, but the Moen Banbury 8 specs an 8-16" spread; the Delta Porter is 6-16". I'd suggest you tour your big box store and squint at the packaging to see what range you can cover.


Splitting a circuit breaker into multiple lines

This seems to be relatively common especially with older homes.

If your basement is not finished then this might not be that large of a job.  If the basement is finished it makes this a lot harder and you will definitely be making holes in walls/ceilings.

The first thing you need to figure out is what exactly you are going to split. Most locations requires dedicated 20amp circuits to each recepticle in the kitchen, so instead of trying to break up a number of other circuits, it'd probably be easiest just to run new dedicated circuits for the kitchen. You do need to be aware that it is not always permissible to have multiple circuits running in the same electrical box, so you could probably make it even easier by running brand new outlets instead of trying to change existing ones.

Installing a new breaker and outlet is not that difficult, but safety always comes to mind with electrical, so if you are not sure you could opt to have an electrician do the whole thing, or if you just want peice of mind, you could get them to inspect your work upon completion.

As always, make sure to turn the power off when working in your electrical panel.  I know a lot of people will pop in breakers with the power on, but I prefer to have my hands nowhere near live electricity.

Good luck!


How can I turn a floor lamp, that emits light upward, into a reading light?

I would fit a disk of aluminum foil on top, either over or under the shade nut (the nut securing the shade frame to the lamp stud) and resting on the shade support arms. You could also use sheet metal, such as from the bottom of a coffee can.
This disk should not extend all the way out to the shade wall--leave at least 1/2" for ventilation to prevent dangerous heat buildup. Do not use tape or other combustible materials. If you put the disk under the shade nut you could also use a standard or fender washer to prevent damage to the foil.
I'd also use an LED bulb, which emits much less heat than an incandescent bulb.


Look for a smart irrigation controller with a flow sensor

Adapt your garden to your climate, rather than your irrigation system to your expectations.

When a complicated system is failing due to its complication, it usually isn't the right solution to add more complication. Flow sensors, wifi transmitters, presumably embedded server software and a monitoring web page or smartphone app; this sounds very expensive and even more prone to failure with the addition of so many new technology domains.

"Honey, it's time to debug the sprinkler again!"

"Now where did I put gdb? It was here in /usr/bin the last time I saw it..."

Complicated irrigation systems are themselves the failure. True bliss lies in planting things that grow natively in the region and don't need to be intensively watered after they're established. Then you don't need an irrigation system at all! And you also don't need to spend ton of money (and the planet's resources) dumping potable water on plants that can't grow on rainfall alone.

I don't know where you live, but there are beautiful and useful plants that grow in any climate. I live in the high desert, where it freezes in the winter, gets up to 115f in the summer, and only rains 4-7 inches a year. It's a very challenging climate. Nonetheless, I plant what natively grows, and  even found species of grass that grow here without irrigation (Blue Grama grass, Curly Mesquite, Western Wheatgrass, siberian wheatgrass).


Will using a flood guard on cellar drain cause excess storm water to go to upper floors?

If that's your plumbing layout, presumably it would overflow at the basement laundry sink if it was going to overflow with the floor drains successfully valved.
Whether it would will depend how much pressure there is - while your flood was only a couple of inches, it was spread out from two floor drains across however much basement area it flooded, so there might well have been more than 2 inches of back pressure if contained in a pipe rather than allowed to spread out.
Assuming your drains connect to a municipal sewer, requesting the agency responsible for maintaining that sewer to correct the problem of it backing up during storms (perhaps indicating a partial blockage/collapse or need to be cleaned, or infiltration [storm water getting into the sanitary sewer] if it's not supposed to be a combined sewer/storm sewer) would be the best solution.


How can I open this door latch with the knobs removed?

There's a C-shaped piece in the hole through the bolt near the right (inner) end. Press one leg of that toward the edge of the door (the latch). Normally there's a formed sheet metal shaft with an opposing C shape going through there that rotates and does just that.


What happens when pulling 160A out of a busbar rated at 100A?

What happens is you exceed the rating of your buss bar by 60%. Doing that is not a good idea and you could melt/deform the base of the buss bar. That buss bar would heat up very fast with that much load on it in a very short time. After 15 minutes it would be so hot it would probably start melting the insulation of other wires attached to it. Plus, I'd be cautious of electrical items purchased on Amazon as they tend to be counterfeit items and could lack UL approval. Bottom line, get a higher rated buss bar.


There are two main contributing factors at play here. First and most importantly, the evaporator is getting too cold. The other problem is only a problem, because the first problem is a problem.  And that is, that the humidity in the basement may be too high.
What's happening, is that the box that contains the evaporator is getting too cold. Once it cools below the dew point, it causes the moisture in the air around it to condense. To solve the issue, you're going to have to figure out why the evaporator is getting so cold.
Improper refrigerant level
My first guess, would be that the system is not charged to the proper level. Specifically, in this case I think it may be undercharged.  Though, you may also see this if it was overcharged. However, since it sounds like it hasn't always been a problem, I'd suspect the system developed a leak.
Testing
To test this, you're going to need a set of gauges. If you don't have a set; or don't know how to use them, you're going to want to contact a local HVAC company.
Restricted air flow
If not enough air is moving through the coils, the little bit of air that is there could be getting too cold.
Testing
Check the filter, to make sure it's clean. Check the evaporator coils, to make sure they are clean. These are the two most common causes of restricted air flow. Additionally, make sure registers and returns are open and unobstructed. If your system has a multi-speed blower motor, make sure it's set to run at the manufacturer's recommended speed.
Long running system
If it's really hot outside, and your system is running almost constantly. It could just be that the evaporator doesn't have time between cycles to warm up.  If this is only a problem when it's abnormally hot outside, it could be "normal" for that situation. Typical A/C systems are designed to cool between 20-30°F, anything beyond that and they'll struggle to keep up.
High humidity
If everything is operating normally, but the system just happens to be in an area where the humidity is high. It might be a good idea to insulate the system, especially in the area around the evaporator.  This is common when the equipment is installed in unconditioned spaces (attics, garage, crawlspace, etc.), but if your basement has moisture problems, it might be required there too.
If the moist air cannot get to the cold metal, the moisture in the air will not condense. However, if the now insulated system gets too cold, you could have problems with the evaporator freezing. So I'd only install insulation, if I was sure the system was operating normally.


What, if anything can you attach to a beam?

Beams are designed to support “Live Loads” and “Dead Loads”.
All materials that are applied to a beam will make them deflect. If you use material like gypsum board it may crack, because it’s not designed to deflect. If you use wood trim or siding, it won’t crack because it’s made to deflect (somewhat).
If you don’t know the design or the live and dead loads accounted for in the design, I’d use some 3/4” thick wood trim and stain to match other trim in the room.


Can I use an adapter to plug a 230v air conditioner into a 120v outlet?

So you have a 120V outlet on the wall, and a 230V air conditioner? If so, then probably not. Those "adapters" (assuming the kind used for travel) are intended to power SMALL appliances, like shavers, cell phone chargers, MAYBE a hair dryer. An Air Conditioner likely requires WAY more power than those devices are good for. That's why it is designed for 230V; it is too much power for a standard 15A 120V outlet.

But you can check to make sure. Look on the nameplate of the Air Conditioner for the wattage. A standard 120V 15A outlet is good for 1800W maximum, assuming a "non-continuous" load and NOTHING else on the same circuit. But worse than that is that most of the travel type power adapters are rated for 1300-1400W MAXIMUM. If your A/C unit draws more than that, then it can't work without risking a fire.


Eight feet is a common distance between posts, due to it being a standard lumber length.  You will have a stiffer, longer lasting fence at 6-7 ft. An integer number of pickets with your desired spacing is a good way to decide from a design standpoint.
I prefer to sink posts to at least frost level (42" in my area). The 1/3 advice is good if frost is not an issue.

I also prefer crushed gravel (21AA or paver base) to place wooden posts (versus concrete or pea gravel). 3-4" in the bottom of the hole (beneath post), continuing up the sides of the posts to just below the surface. Give the post a push after first 5" and tamp along all 4 sides as you fill. This technique will greatly extend post life and minimize rot.

I've used the gate brackets that you build into the gate which have hinges built in. They will stabilize a 42" gate (each side). Extra long screws on the top hinge are helpful.  Stainless steel cable run diagonally (with adjustment turnbuckles) run from the top of the hinge to bottom of the gate (at the opposite corner) will make it sag proof.

Disclaimer 1  user of product, no financial connection:

Disclaimer 2:  Haven't used it but sounds interesting, YMMV (Near) Instant fence post backfill


Can I use solvent based paint on waterborne primer?

Not a problem.  I have used any cheap water based paint as a primer.  Primer has two functions.  Seal the surface so you use less of the high price spread, and give tooth to the surface for the finish coat to stick.  You don't have to keep it all waterbase or all oil base, unless the paint can directions are specific.


Can't figure out where leak is coming from

Leaks are almost never directly above the wet spot. They are somewhere above the wet spot (water does not run uphill), but can be a long horizontal distance if there's a way for the water to run along.

If you suspect the toilet, dye is one way to check, but presumably the toilet has been there all along, and if, say the recent reappearance of the wet spot coincided with wet November weather, I'd be looking at the exterior surfaces of the house and water intrusion there more than the toilet, unless it got clogged and overflowed recently, or the bathroom was enthusiastically wet-mopped, or tub-splashed, or something like that.

Could, for instance, be the flashing on the vent pipe letting rain down the outside of the sewer pipe. Could be a roof leak or window flashing leak running along and dripping off here. Well-nigh impossible to diagnose with as little as you've looked at so far, but where-ever it is, is up. Just might be 20 feet sideways, too.


How to tie the optimal cordelette in this specific 7 point scenario?

Honestly I think you are over thinking this. As long as your anchor point spread out too far you shouldn't have a problem you don't really need to worry too much about transferring load because there is only one load on it. If you plan on swinging in your hammock that's a different story. On the other hand you don't have to worry about plummeting to your death either.

You could try something like this
Using six of the anchor points that you have outlined you can easily make adjustments to the load-bearing points by adjusting three lengths.

Test your anchor points

Start with your best anchor points. Fix a rope in place at a comfortable height for you to hold on to and do a pull-up and then bounce a little. Use your judgment to figure out the quality of the anchoring. I often mount things over people's heads and the best of field test I've come up with is to hang off an individual anchor effectively quadrupling the load it would possibly see.

perhaps this is a more accurate representation of what you need

Once you have one or two decent anchor points the rest are just insurance.  with this setup always make sure the two best anchor points are together.


Pool pump plug trips when GFCI outlet receives power

This sounds highly unusual some plug mounted gfci s need to be reset whenever they receive power but as you said you can unplug it and plug it in without having to reset it so I would check the wiring at the switch to make sure that it is breaking the hot wire and not the neutral also make sure the bare ground wire is not contacting the neutral at the outlet or in the switch box.


Are you supposed to put a vapor barrier on both sides of the common garage wall (wall between garage and house)?

If you are insulating the walls with a Kraft Faced insulation then the paper side needs to be against the house wall.  Regardless of any other insulation anywhere else in the garage, paper to the warm side always.  If you are using unfaced insulation, then you probably won't get the vapor barrier you want and need unless you use foam board or closed cell spray foam.  Putting the vapor barrier on the outside will cause condensation in your wall.


The only times I've ever pulled off superglue were when it was used on the surface, not blind like in your situation. For that purpose, we would add a little acetone and scrape it off with a dental pick. The problem you have is that you've got a bunch of superglue that the acetone can't get to (because it's under the edge of the crystal).

Unfortunately, for this situation, unless you can get the acetone to wick under and attack the superglue under the edge, I think you're probably done. The best you can try is to put some acetone at the superglued points on the crystal and then pry at it with a dental pick. Other than that, I think you don't have any options.

In this instance, I think domestic harmony can probably be preserved by you replacing the watch. And don't forget to apologize for botching the repair. That will help too.


Is there a good way to lay out a right angle?

Step #1: Finding the center.

Never built a round deck before, but to find out where you want to put the deck, and to mark the center point, I would drive a stake or nail, tie a string to it that is as long as the desired diameter (30' here), and then walk in a circle with it, keeping it taut, and putting some long nails into the ground, at the end of the string, every 3' or so.  Then I'd put a string around all of those nails, wrapping it around each nail a few times.  Alternatively, if you are working on concrete, clean it up and use chalk instead of the nails & strings for the outside.

Step #2: Dividing the circle into quadrants.

Take the string that is attached to the center stake to the edge of the circle and drive a nail/stake there.  (On concrete, just make a mark and get someone to hold it there.)  Attach a second string to that nail and walk to the opposite side of the circle.  PS: The reason you're using the center string here is to MAKE SURE that each mark is 30' from the center, otherwise the math will fall apart.
Once at the other side of the circle, I would drive another nail/stake, making sure that the string going across the entire circle was both (1) taut and (2) passing directly over the circle.  For reference in the next step, we will call these two points Outside Point #1 and #2 (OP1 and OP2.)  If you're on concrete, you can pop a chalk line at this point.
Then, I would use some math.  Dividing the circle into quadrants would require 4 points on the outside of the circle that (of which we currently only have 2), if you were to draw lines in between all of them, would form four right triangles (with the right angle in the center, which is what you're asking for.)  Knowing that each leg of each right triangle needs to be 30', the hypotenuse of each triangle must be 42' 5 (1/8)" -long (square root of 30^2 + 30^2).  Armed with a string of that length, I would attach it to both of nails/stakes/marked points from above, OP1 and OP2, and I would walk to both sides of the circle, near where the other two points, which we'll call OP3 & 4, should be.  Make marks where the end of this string crosses over the outside of the circle (to be exact, you should once again have the 30' center string in your hand.)  See diagram below.  For OP3, make this measurement from both OP1 and OP2, and for OP4, make the measurement once again from both OP1 and OP2.  You should have two marks at both the OP3 and OP4 locations, and they should be so close (within 1") that you can just eyeball an average of them.  Drive a nail at those locations, and draw a taut string from OP3 to OP4, making sure it passes over the center.  Once again, if you're on concrete, pop a chalk line.

I'd imagine that this is the most accurate method outside of buying survey equipment.  Good luck!

(Note: Unfortunately, as you swing a string around a nail/stake, it will shorten in length.  If you decide to trace out the entire outside of the circle, your distance from the center will decrease as you go.  Tying a loop in the string, allowing it to rotate around the nail/stake will prevent this.)


Does primer lose its bond surface after a period of time?

Yes but in real world sense, no.   Yes it does lose its binding principles due to other molecules/materials interfering with its surface or its surface decaying (at a super super low rate).

Your main enemy is grease, dirt, and dust.   You will have to clean the walls well (use soapy bucket and scruffy sponge, let it dry after cleaning then Windex and paper towels after).   As far as chemically breaking down it does but at a slow rate.  You can tell when it does because it gets shiny and flat looking - takes years.

The other part of it is that newer paints that are quality are paint/primer combos.   You are good if you clean it well after it sits a year.


Why does my refrigerator trip the GFCI outlet?

The fridge shouldn't be on GFCI in the first place

GFCI is designed to protect humans from

typically 2-prong ungrounded,
non-metallic-chassis
appliances where the electrical parts are anywhere near a place you can reach
where the appliance may get wet, including its electrical bits
where it, or you holding it, could get into water e.g. Sink
and where all this couls possibly add up to an electric shock

A refrigerator is none of these.  It's a grounded all metal chassis that can't move, all the electrical gear is all in the very back at the bottom where  you could not possibly reach it, it won't get wet and you won't drop it in the sink.

Compare to the Range, which definitely has no GFCI protection, and is probably even wired NEMA 10 with no ground at all, and with the range chassis bootlegged to Neutral, seriously? how can this be legal?

So yeah.

And in fact, there is no Code requirement whatsoever for GFCIs on fridges.

Use a non-GFCI supply, preferably a dedicated circuit

The fridge is probably tripping because it does have a ground fault.  You can armwave, and call it some oh/so/complicated motor issue, but it sounds like semantics to me, at the end of the day currents are not equal. The motor isn't storing quintillions of electrons, heck the new cyclotron at Berkeley Lab couldn't store that many electrons.  The electrons are being returned in real time, and we know it's via ground because that is the only reliable return.  That's a ground fault by definition.  Whatevs.  The point is that for all the above list of reasons, we don't care that much if a fridge has a small ground fault.

It's not safer; "everything's safer with GFCI" is simply not true, again for the above bulleted reasons the fridge is vanishingly unlikely to bite you.  You have more to fear from that NEMA 10 range. Seriously.

If able, give the fridge a dedicated circuit with a special 1-socket receptacle that plugs in behind the fridge, and don't look back.  Otherwise rearrange so the fridge is non-GFCI, but you still have a risk since sharing a circuit still invites an overload trip causing food spoilage.

Food spoilage is dangerous too - you imagine that "oh, the chef will taste the food first" no.  Food for children or senior citizens is typically served blind.  I have watched aides serve my mother a bowl of cereal with curdled, way out of date milk.   Again, you have to balance other safety factors with the "everything's safer with GFCI".


Water Filters Before a Shallow Well Jet Pump?

Not a good idea.  It will cause a pressure drop in the suction line, and as the filter plugs the resistance will increase.  You can end up cavitating the pump which will erode away the impeller.


What kind of system carries both hot and cool water to my condominium?

What you have is a four-pipe hydronic system with individual air handling units in each dwelling unit -- this is a very common system in larger buildings of all kinds, and works quite smoothly.  Just tell the HVAC folks that the blower in your AHU is shot and they'll know exactly what's up.


Low Pressure From Shower Head Troubleshooting

Start with the water pressure in general - is the pressure OK when you're filling the tub?  How about the sinks?

Assuming the pressure is OK when filling the tub, that means there's probably a blockage, either in the diverter, or in the shower head itself.  Try taking the shower head off - how's the flow?  Try replacing the shower head - it could be the old one is clogged (you can get a cheap shower head for a few bucks, and if the one you have is decent quality try soaking it in some CLR).


Why is a gas furnace vented but a gas dryer is not?

Your gas dryer vents its combustion products outside along with the moisture from your clothes, so it is vented to the outside.

Your oven doesn't vent out mostly for sake of having limited combustion. There are ventless heaters available. However you run it, though, any natural gas burning device will create water vapor and carbon dioxide. If it malfunctions, you also risk it producing carbon monoxide. Stoves and ovens get by because they have relatively low BTU output and in a residential setting relatively low use. In a commercial setting, you'd achieve exterior venting with a ventilation hood.

When you get to devices with higher output such as a clothes dryer or furnace, you really want that out of the house. The impracticality of venting your stove, though, outweighs the relatively small amount of downside.


All sorted now, basically I have a plastic back box but the earths have a connector on them. The Loop N terminals are for convenience, so I've just bought a connector block to connect them up. The L1 and Coms just need to have the same wiring on the new dimmer switch. I've not done it yet but got my answer from another forum.


Borax and DE are a low coast and easy way to eradicate insects. They both are a less toxic form of killing bugs. DE is the remains from a prehistoric sea mollusk (the shell I believe) while Borax is a natural occurring mineral.
Borax should not be applied where it can get accidentally inhaled or absorbed by humans and non-target animals. Although it is less toxic than other insecticides it is not inert and can have harmful effects if ingested.
DE while having no toxic ingredients also cause problems due to it's shape. The fine powdery dust that is DE has extremely sharp ,albeit minuscule, edges. If enough is inhaled  it can cause possible lung problems.
To haphazardly spread either of these substances while considering them safe, is both reckless and unsafe. If you'd rather not tempt fate and sleep easy purchase a trap-like product (like "Roach Motel" etc.). These products either use a lure phernome that entices the specific bug to enter the enclosed trap where upon it gets stuck on the sticky floor or a chemical bait that it ingest's and dies. This is the safest way to ensure you and pets are safe and insects are eradicated quickly.


In Massachusetts, attic floors must support at least 30 lbs/ft² live load (the same as bedroom floors) if the attic is accessed by means of a fixed stairway (780 CMR 5502.3.1).  Use a span table to determine the necessary joist dimensions, given their span length, spacing, wood species, and grade.  For example, if your floor joists are 2x6 spaced 16 inches o.c., they can then be between 8'5" and 10'11" depending on the wood species and grade (780 CMR Table 5502.3.1(1)).

Uninhabitable attics with limited storage need only support a live load of 20 lbs/ft² (780 CMR Table 5802.4(2)).


That is the temperature of the hottest part of the flame. Here is a useful picture from SE that shows temperatures for a candle flame:

Here is a diagram for a gas flame showing how the temperature changes by region. Only the hottest point in the center is at the claimed maximum:


A standard #10 screw has an outer thread diameter of 3/16". The #10 countersink you are referring to is a combined tool designed for applications where the screw is to pass completely through the material without digging the threads into the wood and have the head sit flush. If you wish to use a screw that is actually going to grip the material, such as a wood screw or self-tapping screw, do not buy the item. Instead you will need an appropriately sized #10 pilot drill (3/32" for soft wood, 7/64" for hardwood) and a separate countersink bit designed for your chosen screw size.

So, the answer depends on the application. If you intend for the screw to pass completely through the first work piece with nothing but the head securing it (no threads biting into the wood) then the combined #10 drill/countersink is great. If you intend for the screw to bite the material, you need a separate pilot drill and countersink bit.


controlling a light fixture with a wireless switch

There are numerous solutions.

One common approach is remote wireless switches coupled with matching receivers, such as the LevNet system. You hard wire a receiver near the load and mount a wireless (and in some cases batteryless) switch remotely. The distance the devices work is limited (usually 10 to 20 feet) and they tend to be expensive, in the $200+ range per circuit. These systems tend to be proprietary and usually only work with their own brand or a licensed affiliated brand.

A second approach is the wireless hub type system, such as the Wink system. These use an open protocol, such as Zigbee, that can link numerous devices, including single bulbs. The control may be dedicated or can work on a smartphone, a tablet, or a computer. The cost of the hub may run from $50 to several hundred dollars, but the remote devices are often fairly cheap. Introductory specials have featured two smart bulbs and a basic hub for $50. Unlike proprietary systems, you can often mix devices from various manufacturers.

If you search for wireless switches and wireless hubs you will find a number of choices.


How do I find a break in my ground wire?

I would start by turning off the circuit, pulling out the outlet and ensuring the ground wire is connected.

If the wire is connected, but still showing as not connected, I would get a cable tracker and follow the wire.  The cable tracker has a sender that sends a signal through the wire, and the receiver listens for this signal.  You can use it to follow cables through the wall and ceiling.  When you get to the break, you should loose the signal.

Here is the cable tracker I have.  http://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html

It would be unusual for the break to happen outside of a box/junction.


What is the proper way to drain a boiler's expansion tank?

Turn off the valve that auto-fills the system from your cold water line
If you have one, open a valve or bleeder on the top of your expansion tank.  If you can't do this, it will still work, the water will just gurgle and drain slowly
Open a drain valve and drain a suitable amount of water
Close drain valve and re-open valve you closed in step 1

Amount of water to leave in tank:  If the system is cold, I would leave the tank close to empty, that maximizes expansion space.  If it's warm or hot, I'd go for about halfway.  You can tell where the water is by feeling the temperature of various spots on the tank and the pipe that feeds the tank.


Wiring diagram to split one circuit for ceiling lights in multiple rooms?

A star topology is fine, but you don't need to route packets with power. Choose a layout that uses the least amount of cable. There's no reason to do anything else. All the lights may be on the same circuit. The fact your diagram has two nearly parallel lines going to the upper lights tells me this is not the most efficient. You should carry power to the upper right light from the upper left instead of coming from the junction box.

Similarly, if the run from the upper right switch to lower right light is shorter than junction box to light, that would be a better layout. BTW, where's the switch for the left light?

You basically just need to run two conductors everywhere, and in addition a third conductor for when you need to carry power through next to a switch leg. If a light or switch is at the end of a run, you do not need the third conductor.

For example, if you were to run power from the upper right switch to lower right light as suggested, the run from upper right light to upper right switch needs to be 3 conductors to carry power through along with the switch leg. From upper right switch to lower right light is 2 conductor because no switch leg is there, The run from lower right light to lower right switch may also be 2 conductor because the switch is at the end of a run and power is not needed further on.


There is a box available that has holes in the side so you can fasten it to a joist from the side.