What precautions should I take when burning pine firewood?

There is no hard and fast rule.  A few fires a season may be OK, a daily fire that is not very hot may not be.    Creosote builds up from vapors condensing on the interior surface of the chimney, so the amount of buildup will depend on how hot the fire is, chimney construction, and possibly even what time of year the wood was cut (there is more sap in the wood in spring, for example).

I would definitely discuss this with your chimney sweep; if they are knowledgeable, they can help assess the chimney construction and probably give you some tips on how to minimize creosote buildup with your particular configuration.

Keep in mind that chimney fires can be extremely dangerous to your house, so it would pay to be conservative.


How do I diagnose an occasionally leaking dishwasher?

Several places I can think of, but the best way I can think of to narrow it down is to look for water damage on the dishwasher itself.

Check the seal around the door. In my own kitchen, I'll be gutting and expecting to replace a lot of floor boards myself because the dishwasher feet were adjusted too long and were causing it to be crushed by the counter top. The sides of the dishwasher bowed out, losing the seal with the door gasket, and allowing water to escape.

Check the supply line connections. Look for any signs of moisture at the shutoff and where it connects to the dishwasher.

Check the drain connections, again, at the dishwasher (including around any pump) and where it connects to the DWV system.

If a visual inspection of the dishwasher itself doesn't reveal anything, put a few pieces of newspaper under the dishwasher and run it through a cycle to locate the final spot of the drip (which could travel far from the leak itself). But make sure the newspaper is clear of any electrical connections and stays away from any hot motors (you don't want a short or fire), and take the newspaper out after your test.


Shorted receptacle, now another recep (GFCI) not working. Breaker perhaps?

It sounds like one of the wire connections is faulty.  Problem is, it's not where you want it to be.
It's very common after an overload for a wire connection (where wire attaches to a device) to simply stop working.  What has happened is that it was making a poor connection up til now (either because backstab connections were used, or it was under-torqued) and the surge of current burned it out entirely.
For any given wire, this could occur on either end of the wire.  You don't know which.    When you replaced the receptacle, that obviously re-seated that end of the wires.  But the problem could be at the other end, which is presumably at another switch, recep, or wire nut that is also on that circuit.
It can also happen at "wire nuts" which aren't tight enough.  People who don't tighten wire nuts enough usually use tape to keep them from just falling apart, so tape is a warning sign.
So it becomes a "bug hunt" trying to find it.


How should I anchor a hand railing to sandstone steps?

Normally this is done by drilling an oversized hole, filling it with mortar and inserting a threaded anchor. The modern way to do things is to use what is called a "drop in anchor". This is an expanding anchor, kind of like a dry wall anchor. You drill the hole to size, drop in the anchor (tap it in with a hammer actually). When the bolt is screwed in, the anchor expands locking the bolt in place (hopefully). The fit needs to be snug. The mortar solutions will be a lot stronger, but more time consuming because you have to mix mortar and wait for it to set.

One of the problems with using a mortar anchor is simply finding one that matches your bolt. You can use a lag shield anchor as one way around this. Another tricky trick is to use nuts. Thread a whole bunch of nuts onto the screws until you have a solid column of nuts. Make sure the nut at the bottom has a little extra space, even glue an extra nut for extra space. Pour the mortar and then put the whole assembly, railing, bolts, nuts and all in place. Finally tighten the bolts.


Security for Outswinging Door (Patio) Not Sliding door

Just short of doing something like below, I think the best you can make sure of is:

Steel door
Secured hinges (As Brock Adams suggested - non-removable pins or concealed)
A deadbolt
Reinforced latches, or at least well installed.
Not excessive clearance between the door and the frame that would allow anything between to mess with the latch (A deadbolt also takes care of this)


Can I replace one of the units in a stackable washer/dryer combo?

You need a bracket to mount the dryer on the washer. The mounting holes are non-standard, so you'll either need to ensure that the manufacturer(s) make such a bracket, make one yourself (or get it made by someone), or mount a shelf in your closet and slide the dryer on that, or otherwise support the dryer without using the washer.


These get blocked by hair and soap buildup all the time there was probably some scum on it when you removed it (now matter how clean the tub is).
An old wire coat hanger can be used to scrape around and pull the remaining soap/hair out. Or the purchase of a small hand auger and slide it in and rotate to clean.
I really don’t like drain cleaners in these cases but if you can just put a little down and let it sit it may dissolve the blockage once it will seal  let a small amount sit in there and rinse it down.
But if using drain cleaner they sometimes discolor the plumbing / tub so I never over fill the pipe if I do use cleaner.


What do-it-yourself cautionary tales do you have?

I once had a tenant who lived next door in our duplex and thought she could hook up her own gas drier.  Smelled gas one day and couldn't find where it was coming from, so I knocked on her door.  Walked in and the whole place reeked of gas.

Checked the drier, and sure enough, the supply line was barely even screwed on.  Asked her about it and got one of those "Yeah, it's been like that for a while now, was going to ask you about that" kind of responses.  Lucky it didn't take out the whole neighborhood.


Name of this shelf support screw with plastic head

I doubt you'll find a superlative industry term since they're so often proprietary.

Shelf support screw
Threaded shelf support
Twisty bump
Screwy knob thing


Wow! What a surprise. I don't think it's related to any county storm drainage system. Wouldn't hurt to contact them though. My best guess is someone acquired some spiral reinforcing somewhere and used it to construct a dry sump for some purpose. It was then forgotten until the cover collapsed and you noticed something amiss. The water probably means you have a shallow water table.

If my assumptions are correct, you just need to fill it in. If there is no nearby foundation structure, you just need some manual labor to haul in fill material. If it is near a foundation, at least some of the fill may need to be compacted. Depending on access, this can be difficult. You could probably hire any general contractor willing to take on the job.


Wall Receptacle Outlet is getting hot! Help

First of all, your assumption that "there should never be any heat in an outlet or wire unless it is being overloaded" isn't strictly true -- there should never be excessive heat, enough to melt the insulation or catch nearby materials on fire, but some temperature rise in wiring is inevitable due to physics.  95F, (or 35C) isn't all that concerning, since even the cheapest mains wiring is rated to handle 60C.  So it's probably not currently a safety issue, but it'd be good to address anyway.
Second, how old are the outlets themselves?  Since you've properly wired everything with side screws and pigtails, the next most likely place to be generating heat is a bad connection between the blades of the plugs, and of the outlets.  This can be due to a dirty or corroded plug, but more commonly it's due to the springs inside the outlet that hold the connection firm wearing out over time.  Since new high quality outlets are only a few dollars, I'd recommend just replacing all of them that are not in good condition (i.e. that their internal springs still hold two-prong plugs firmly).  If the plug blades on your devices are slightly corroded but otherwise in good condition, you can usually remove the corrosion with a bit of sandpaper.


How can I strengthen the floor above a crawl space in pier and beam construction?

The new support structure with a beam that you are proposing sounds fine.

If you are concerned, then overdo it by doubling the materials for the beam, or placing a steel L-rod 3/8" thick around the beam. Using an L-rod will reduce the number of bolts that you need to put through it into the beam, and will add structural support due to the angle.

The more important thing to remember here is what the pier block sits on. If you have bedrock or a similar rocky aggregate under the house, then you may be able to safely rely on it not shifting or changing over time.

If it is just soil, you can expect that you will get some compacting due to the weight of the heater. Even if you are able to bring in a tamper and pack the soil, you can still expect that over time it will change through natural cycles in the ground.  Instead, place the broad flagstones under the peers to distribute the weight.

Make sure that the flagstones are thick enough that the weight will not crack them – since the breadth of the flagstone is being used to distribute that weight across the soft soil. Do not use metal, as it will rust and deteriorate.


You need to drill three operations.

The 2x4 piece being fastened. It needs a clearance hole drilled all the way through that allows that #9 sized screw to drop in. So the hole diameter needs to be just large enough as the greatest outside diameter of the screw. That may be the threaded part or the non-threaded part could be larger in diameter.
The clearance holes may want to be counter sunk slightly to allow the heads to come flush with the surface of the piece being fastened. You do this with a counter sink bit in your drill. With 3" screws you will need to be careful to not counter sink too far because your total thickness of two 2x4's is 3" and too deep of countersink will allow the screw to come through on the opposite side.
Piece being fastened to. This part will need to have pilot holes drilled. The pilot hole diameter needs to be less than the outer thread diameter on the screw but the same size or a tiny bit larger than the inner diameter of the screw thread. This is important because with fat screws like #9's it would be possible to split the lumber.

Additional hints:

a) Rub the threads of the screw on a bar of soft soap and it will make driving them in much easier.

b) Consider using 2.5" screws instead so you have less chance of them going all the way through.

c) Consider using deck screws instead that have an alternate drive slot instead of the Philips. A square drive has much less chance of stripping out when driving large screws.

d) Drill your clearance holes in the piece to be fastened first. Then clamp that piece to the part that it fastens to. This will allow you to use the clearance holes as a guide as to where the pilot holes have to go in the fastened to piece. Make sure the pilot holes are at least as deep as the  screw will penetrate. For an inexpensive type 2x4 type frame there really is no problem with drilling the pilot holes all the way through. If the pilot drill bit is not long enough you may have to unclamp the pieces to complete drilling the pilot holes.


Is voltage too high in C wire going to thermostat?

It's a bit high but whether it will be a problem depends on your thermostat and how it tolerates the high voltage.  Also consider that the furnaces controller board is also receiving this voltage.

Before you start anything else, check to see if your thermostat can be calibrated and complete this step first.

To rule out the higher voltage as the cause of the faulty temperature reading, find another transformer that gives you close to 24VAC and connect it to R and C - basically use that power source instead of the transformer in the furnace.  If the temperature reading is correct now then you have verified the cause.   If other transformers are also giving higher than expected voltages, check your input line voltage - if that is high, so will the transformer output.

If line voltage is OK and other transformers are OK then you can replace the transformer in your furnace; it's a pretty straight forward replacement usually. Just remember to turn off the power to your furnace first!


Can I replace just part of a 1x6 roof deck with OSB?

You certainly can. I've done just that with a 1950s home I owned to patch in where the chimney came through and to replace rotted boards across an entire section. Just use spacers between the OSB sheets as is common practice to create 1/8" gaps. (Or use 16d nails as spacers with 3/4" sheathing--the sheets are sized for that.)

Also, use suitable fasteners. 8d nails are good for 1/2" material, but you might go a bit larger (10d or 12d) for 3/4" material.


The cover is probably nailed into the wall studs, with the nails behind the finned tube.  I've used this procedure in several rooms to replace the entire cover around the finned tube:

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/heating-cooling/21017155/how-to-replace-a-baseboard-heating-cover

First, you need to take the front of the cover off and the brackets holding the finned tube.  Then you'll  need some shims to pry the cover away from the wall, and slide a long saws-all blade between the wall and cover. Cut off the nail heads behind the cover.  The back of the cover will slide out.

New "dummy" covers can be purchased at the home improvement center.  These are just the covers without the finned tube.  Use these parts to replace the cover you removed.  Secure the new cover to the wall with drywall screws at the stud locations.

As an alternate, I've also seen special covers that go over the old rusty covers without the need for cutting or tools.


Get the furnace to show the problem again.  Then don't touch anything.  call for service.  As long as power is not interrupted, the furnace will hold those blink codes in memory. The service man can interpret the code and solve the problem.


Circuit breaker panel voltage drops when a load is added

It sounds like a bad connection to the main breaker or a bad hammer in the main breaker. Try making the measurement at the main prior to the breaker. If your voltage is normal above the breaker the hammer in the breaker is not making a good contact. If it is the breaker turn your small breakers all off. With all the small breakers turned off flip the main breaker 10-20 times on and off and see if this cleans the contact. Sometimes this fixes the problem with a bad contact. but be prepared to replace the main if it happens again. If your voltage is low prior to the main you need to call the power company and have them check the connections at the transformer / line fuses on the pole for a loose connection. I just realized you said this was a sub panel if this is a sub measure the voltage coming out of the main and verify the breaker feeding the panel is not the problem other than that same procedure for checking the main in a sub. The next thing to try is swap L1 & L2 your 2 hots feeding the sub and see if the problem follows the wire.


Cutting curves is more difficult because the toothless back of the blade presses against the edge of the cut, forcing the toothed edge to cut sideways. The wider the blade in relation to its thickness, the greater the issue. Of course, a narrow blade is weaker.

To make it easier, there are commercial circle-cutting attachments available for sabre saws and jig saws, or you can make your own attachment.


Can I use a standard on-off switch for lights on a magnetic low voltage transformer?

Plain old mechanical switches are fine

Dimmers do funny things to the mains, so they are only compatible with what they say on the tin.  Plain old mechanical switches don't do funny things to the mains, they just turn them on and off.  So, a mechanical switch will work with any load up to its rating.


How do I remove this plastic shower drain cover?

That appears to be intended to pry out with a screwdriver or similar flat tool at the indents a little past 6 o'clock and a little past 12 o'clock as pictured.


How can I trim metal window wells after lowering the grade around them?

Are you taking about one of these things?

If so, you might not want to cut it down. The lip should be a bit higher than the surrounding grade so that rainwater doesn't run in to the well.

If you don't cut it, you might be able to decorate it.

However, if you really want to cut it then you can use a reciprocating saw. If the metal is too thick, you might need to use a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder.


Difference between normal vs machinist tool chest

The two you are comparing are different quality from different brands with associated (vastly) different price points. If you operate the drawers on each you will feel a difference, and the overall quality of construction is quite different.

Aside from drawers sized to the typical precision measuring tools you don't want knocking about with larger tools or piled on top of each other, there is typically a drawer (top center) in a machinists box specifically sized for a particular book - Machinery's Handbook - the "bible" of the trade. There is usually a security panel that covers all the drawers when the box is locked. Likewise, felt lining is standard in the drawers so the tools are not abused by the drawers themselves.

If you are gift shopping and can't grasp the more than $300 difference, contribute part of the money towards the expensive one if that was what was requested. The cheap one is not at all the same thing, if the recipient is a machinist in training (normally the only folks that need one.) The cost of the tools that go into one dwarf the cost of the box rather quickly. The job of the box is to keep those tools safe.


Does an outdoor AC condenser unit (Heat Pump) require lubrication? Pic included

I would replace the Condenser Fan Motor.

Loudness would be attributed to either bent fan blades and/or worn bearings. Considering the age of your condenser unit, it is most likely bearings. Typically, the bearings on a Condenser Fan Motor do not require lubrication, because the bearing packs are sealed.

A video on removing a Condenser Fan Motor can be seen here and
here.
A very in-depth and high quality video can be watched here.

Here is a picture of a generic Condenser Fan Motor:

It is essentially sealed. This is on purpose. It keeps the dirt and debris from getting into the internal fan motor components. The bearings are also internal. There would be no effective way to lubricate them without literally removing the rotor from the stator (i.e. taking the fan apart).

Even if you do take it apart and remove the bearings (there is one in the back and one in the front) there is a good chance it is going to look like this:

In that case, it wouldn't be very wise to try and remove the protective jacket covering the bearings. They aren't too expensive and could be replace very easily. Just get yourself a puller and you would be all set.

If you are lucky, your bearings would look like this:

If your bearings do look like that, then it would be a lot easier to lubricate and probably wouldn't even have to remove them from the rotor in order to do it.

Conclusion

I would still replace the fan motor. It is old. It has been exposed to the environment for a very long time. Plus, technology has dramatically improved and you should be able to find a suitable replacement that is more energy efficient.


How can I resolve a "vent intake or termination" problem on my furnace?

I had the same code. After hours of searching, I too, found an object in the bottom of the intake line.    It was a Golf ball someone had put in the pipe from outside the house.   I removed the intake pipe from the unit and the ball was just below the connection.


What's better for outside trim- treated pine 1x4 or painted/primed yellow pine in Houston?

I think there is some confusion going on, pressure treated lumber for ground contact and yard / deck use is a completely different animal than the pressure treated radiata pine product that is used for trim, fascia, and barge rafters. This material is kiln dried and as a contractor since 1989 and a carpenter since 1978 the pressure treated resawn pine is used 80% of the time and is sold in all lumber yards including home depot and lowes. It is expensive but comes with a heavy prime that seems to be infused into the wood, no knots, and is rot and mildew resistant, very straight and does not shrink, split or warp. All the large lumber companies have their own brand name for this product. Its probably not used on some lower end tract homes because of its cost, but in the long run it is more stable than the clear resawn cedar and redwood we used to be able to use.(even in the 70's almost clear redwood 2x8's were extremely expensive, and they were usually somewhat wet so they would change a bit over time).


Fully programmable washing machine (not in the marketing sense!)

Yes, you want the SDLAtlas Vortex M6.

(Manufacturer photo)

  Supplied with a controller that can dictate custom settings for:
  -Bath Temperature (Custom Controls)
  -Water Fill (Custom Controls)
  -Agitation (Speed & Time)
  -Spin (Speed & Time)
  Custom programs can be saved for late use

Or if you want a European-style front-loader, the James Heal/Electrolux Wascator will fit your needs.

(Mfg photo)

These are designed to test fabrics and laundry detergent formulations in a lab, so unfortunately I suspect you will find it cheaper to buy new clothes every few months than to acquire thesee.


What is the most efficient window design to maximise cooling in a tropical climate?

As others have mentioned, you could use that large rock to your advantage, but for less money, you can simply design your house to take advantage of passive cooling methods. Quickly, I'll preface that I get most of these ideas from the visitor center in Zion National Park. It gets exceptionally hot and humid in the summer there, but they maintain near-zero usage of AC due to the building design.

Window Angle

You can position your windows with overhangs or sunshades that passively block sunlight (and potentially some of that rain you mentioned) during the summer months. Indonesia, being so close to the equator (as you said), would likely have less variation in sun angle year round, so it's possible these sunshades would work continuously to prevent heat ingress.

Check out these examples: Zion, Sunshades, Google Images

On a similar note, using Low-E glass can help reduce any stray IR radiation from entering, further helping cool your house.

Passive Cooling Tower

You are making a two-storey building, so you can take advantage of a vertical passive cooling system. I have been next to the one in Zion, and it's amazing how well it works. Check out this diagram.

It works on the principle of evaporative cooling. You have wet fabrics exposed to the air at the top of the tower. Warm air rises from your house through a chimney (of sorts). When it reaches the fabric, the warm air causes some water to evaporate, causing the air to cool as it transfers heat into the water. The cool air then returns down the chimney and into your house.

It's even possible to do this without needing the wet fabrics (though those help significantly due to the latent heat of vaporization of water). Skylights can accomplish the same task, and many have automatic controllers to close when they sense rain.

Ultimately, by having ventilation both high and low, you get passive (or natural) convection cooling. This is also where that large limestone rock can help. If you can get ventilation through that rock, you can take advantage of geothermal buffering, which helps maintain a constant, cooler temperature. Effectively, you are tying the thermal capacitance of your house to the rock, making it harder to heat up easily.


Is it normal for air to be leaking from this part of the HVAC?

"duct tape" - this is what it is actually designed for! Though actually I would use a good metal tape like:

However, would that explain 30% difference in energy usage? No. Maybe 1%, if that, since any leaked air is still going into your house and not to to the outside.
The typical utility company comparison is based on very broad comparisons. At best, they will compare single-family-home to single-family-home and townhouse to townhouse. I've never seen any that actually take square footage or other factors into account.
Your 30% difference could easily include one or more of:

electric vs. gas hot water
electric vs. gas heat
electric vs. gas kitchen appliances (e.g., I have a gas cooktop, but the house originally had electric and most of my neighbors still do)
number of people in the house (more people = more computers, lights, cooking, etc.)
typical temperature setting for air conditioning and whether you set back the temperature during the day (well, in the old days when people went to school or worked outside the home...)
quality of windows
lighting - incandescent vs. fluorescent vs. LED

and many other things. Bitcoin mining in your basement?


Why mix cooking oil with epoxy to repair a toilet drain pipe?

I recently learned something about injection molding. While this is a completely different process, it may be somehow related to this topic.

When plastics engineers want to produce a flexible or partially flexible part, they choose to make the parts from elastomeres in the past (e.g. rubber or silicone). Unfortunately elastomeres are nearly impossible to produce during an injection molding process. Thus flexible parts were rather expensive.

Some smart engineers tried to mix cooking oil into thermoplastic materials like polyethylene and polypropylene to make it softer. They eventually found out, that the outcome was more like an elastomere, but could be produced by injection molding, which makes it rather cheap.
In fact, if you encounter a cheap plastic part like a toothbrush these days which exhibits a flexible part, it is very likely that the flexible part is basicly the same polymer as the adjacent parts but with cooking oil mixed in.

And because cured epoxy has some thermoplastic properties, I think it may be possible to increase the flexibility of the cured resin by thoroughly mixing in some oil. And flexibiliy is the be-all and end-all of a sealing.

This leaves the question, why oil on a surface is detrimental to the adhesive strength of epoxy, and inside the compound it's not.

I guess it depends on the degree of dispersion. One will have to mix it really good to prevent the formation of an oil film preventing the epoxy to grip the parts.


Shims.
Go to the local home center and get some of the (free?) laminate counter top samples in the kitchen cabinet section, they are about 3x5 inches.   I then cut them to the same size as the hinge plate. Remove the hinge, place it on the sample and trace around it, it does not need to perfect but it should not be bigger then the hinge. I cut them with tin snips.
They are about 1/6 inch thick so sometimes you need to stack several of them behind the hinge.
Place enough of them behind the hinge to bring the hinge flush with the jam, hold the hinge over them and pre-drill, or mark them so you can pre-drill them, then install the hinge over them.
An alternative is to use a Dutchman. There are many YouTube videos on this. I like Tom Silva's tutorial from Ask This Old House.


Do you leave the heating cables for the roof/ gutter on 24 hours a day?

Probably not, but...

You'll need to read the literature that undoubtedly came with your heat cable (or, at a minimum, share with us what product you're using). Generally, they shouldn't be left on continuously, and they shouldn't be on when outdoor temperatures get above 30 degrees F, give or take. What cycle you need depends on the local climate, current weather, installation technique, and other factors.

Lots more good advice here.


What is the best way to remove pet odor from concrete?

Let me save you some time.  Forget the pet store products, just go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get yourself a can of primer/sealer, I think Kilz brand is the best.

I had a really bad cat urine odor problem in my townhome many years ago (from previous owners).  Like you, I went to the Internet and I tried a lot of suggestions I found there.  NONE of those specialty pet odor removal products worked.  They just temporarily covered up the smell and during hot weather it came back.  Big waste of money and time.

Finally someone suggested the Kilz brand primer/sealer and it worked.  The smell never ever came back, and there was a clean "new home" smell.  I used it on drywall but I'm sure they have stuff for concrete as well.


GFCI receptacle works partially when switch is turned off; not at all when on

You have confirmed my suspicion that, with the switch off, the outlet and the light are in series. That is the reason that both light dim when a 100 watt light is plugged in.

The fact that the outlet shows hot/neutral reversed when the switch is off tells me exactly what the "electrician" did. The outlet must be wired as follows:

the hot side of the outlet (small prong) must be connected to the white wire between the lamp and the switch.
the neutral side of the outlet (large prong) must be connected to some hot wire (probably black).

This way, when the switch is on, it is shorting out the outlet (hot-to-hot). When the switch is off, you have a full path from hot into the neutral side of the outlet, from the hot side of the outlet to the hot side of the lamp, and from the neutral side of the lamp to neutral.

Bottom line - the switch and lamp seem to be wired correctly. The outlet is miswired. Frankly, the wiring of the outlet is so screwed up, I wouldn't let the same "electrician" back in your house. Find a real pro to straighten it out.


None of those components appear to be load bearing.
I think that the following are the possible reasons for their existence.
BCD are for attaching drywall.
E is the same (with few additional 2x4).
A is for attaching drywall with a possibility of a door or access panel.


How can I add a wedge to a U-haul ramp to avoid the step down from the truck bed?

On all of the rental trucks I've driven that had a ramp, the ramp could be pulled out a bit further and was able to be lifted up and latched into place at the same level as the inside of the truck, for exactly this reason.

U-Haul has a youtube video showing how to use the ramp; lifting the ramp up to the level of the interior is seen at around 45 seconds in.


How to reinforce a floor joist with a split knot?

I'm not convinced that this is causing the squeak. The amount of wood that was removed is trivial. I'd investigate further first. Some glue and/or shims or the tightening of a fastener may resolve the issue. Otherwise...
They make steel repair channels for this type of thing, but they're likely not cheap. Your goal is to restore the tension strength of the bottom portion of the joist. Here's what I'd do as a DIY repair, based on decades of home construction and ownership experience:

Determine whether the joist has sagged at all. Run a long level or other reliable straightedge across the bottoms of the joists. If that one's low even 1/16" relative to several in either direction, put a jack and a stud under it and give it a gentle lift. Ideally, shoot for 1/16" above level to account for some settling later.
Prepare 4-6 foot 2x4 gussets for both sides of the lower portion of the joist. These should be ripped or notched to fit under the cable.
Liberally apply heavy duty construction adhesive to the each gusset and fasten them with 2-1/2" gold general purpose screws in pairs every 12" or so. I recommend Torx-drive for easier installation. Keep them at or slightly above flush at the bottom so you don't create a bump in the ceiling.

Be sure that the gussets pull tight with the first few screws. You can't move them with additional screws. If necessary, pilot through the gussets to the size of the screw threads.
Let the assembly dry for 24 hours before removing the temporary post. 48 hours is even better.


Is running ethernet cable through an air return allowed under US code?

Looking in 2011 National Electric Code Changes of Interest, they reference NFPA 90A-2009 :

  Section 4.3.4 of NFPA 90A-2009 states that “Wiring shall not be installed in air ducts” unless it is “directly associated with the air distribution system and does not exceed 1.22m (4 ft).”

I don't have access to the full code, but just in the notes on the revisions to NEC 2011, they seem to allow CMP (plenum rated cable) in air ducts or "other spaces used for environmental air" based on the table on page 15, 'Applications of Communications Wires and Cables'.  All others must be in a raceway ... other than CMUC (under carpet) or cables w/ power, which are both banned completely.

I'd personally ask a local inspector -- they're the ones who are going to know what the local interpretation of the codes are.  If you're running something that's not required to be inspected, I'd only run plenum rated cable -- the jacket won't give off toxic fumes if burned, so you'll have a chance at escaping a fire without being poisoned first.


Unions are not allowed behind walls. If your wall is removable then it is more like furniture or painting. For example. A screwed on panel for a furnace room door is okay. There is a union at the furnace. So it is okay.


What is the most common stair tread depth and stair nosing length?

I doubt any of us can provide actual statistics. You'll get personal preference and opinion. Mine is to shoot for 1-1/8", knowing that cutting stair stringers takes precision and still results in a bit of variation after all is said and done.

Tread depth does include the nosing. "Run" is the term for each step's dimension from riser to riser. "Rise" is the dimension from tread to tread.

______________________    __
______________________)    ^
                   ||      |
                   ||      |
                   ||      | rise
                   ||      |
                   _______________________
                   _______________________)
                                       ||
                    |
                    |<--- run ---------->


Wood knots showing through gloss paint on knotty pine doors despite applying knotting solution prior to painting

Knotty pine is great if you like the look of knotty pine. It sucks for every other use.

Otherwise, look into the line of Kilz products. They may have one that will do the job for you.


How deep should I bury a 4x4 steel post?

You will want to bury about 1/4th of the pole under ground (So dig a 6 foot hole). At the bottom of the hole, pour 1 foot of gravel, and then put in the pole. Now pour a bunch of cement (4+ bags), and make sure your pole is placed strait in the hole. Now shovel your dirt on top and you're good to go!


How to take off paper glued to concrete with elmer's school glue

Elmer's glue is water soluble. Just soak it with warm water and let it sit for 10 minutes. If that fails a power washer certainly do it.


It may not be termites but it looks likes some kind of insect infestation. I would contact either the building owner or a local pest exterminator. What ever the tunnels are made of is likely building material. I would recommend doing this quickly before there is structural damage to the building.


Dishwasher leaks water but doesn't work?

The dishwasher should drain into the disposer so it sounds like you have a combination of 2 problems:

1) significant blockage in your sink drain p-trap that is causing water to backup into the dishwasher (path of least resistance). However, it still shouldn't leak normally.

2) the DW drain wasn't done with an air gap or high loop that prevents #1. In other words, the drain hose should run out of the DW, then much higher than where it connects to the disposer before dropping down again to enter the disposer.

That doesn't answer why it is leaking though. Poor drain connection, bad pump, bad seals. If it leaks that bad, it may be a blessing it hasn't worked.


Why do people run 12-3 cable to feed completely different circuits?

To reduce material costs of the job.
To reduce the number of holes bored through framing.
To reduce the number of cables that have to be pulled.


I need a wireless gadget that may not exist. Pic and description attached

I think I would just fix the problem.
 By this I mean add a point of use water heater usually at the shower.
Most of the time with on demand water heaters I have found most customers want more hot water for the exact same reason you have.

Adding a 30 amp 240v on demand water heater brings the tepid water temp to the nice warm water most home owners want, yes even when there are other demands that drop the water temp 15-25 degrees in the shower.

It is all based on flow but adding a small electric point of use electric water heater is a inexpensive way to have almost endless water at a comfortable water temps.

I can personally say this method works having a home with 3 full baths and 3 daughters , and up to 6 granddaughters at the same time, I started with a point of use electric in the master bath, the next year in the upstairs bath and before we bought a different home the 3rd bath. Now even with the entire family home the main water heater a gas on demand warms the water and the point of use electrics bring it up to temp even with all 3 showers being used at the same time.

I loved the gas tankless but it did not have the flow needed for even 2 showers at the same time, after adding the point of use electrics on each of the baths the power bill actually went down and everyone could shower back to back without running out of hot water and the space saved by removing the main 100 gallon water heater provided more room.

Having a point of use solves the same problems with a tanked or tankless hot water supply, I have added similar small heaters for other customers and most have really thought they did the job.

I would consider an electric point of use tankless on the shower. It may be the solution you need.


What can I do about minimizing small shards of ice shooting out the ice dispenser on LG refrigerator?

Looks like its the quality of the produced ice which is easy to break up, try cleaning the ice tray with vinegar then soapy water,  that may reduce the mineral deposits on the tray and reduce surface resistance.

I don't have a direct answer, only suggestions, since this is quite a complicated question.

Firstly, if you look at the new ice, fresh from the ice maker, are they solid?, then take one out and see if the ice block is very cloudy, this would make the ice slightly more fragile, since it contains many air bubbles.  you could try turning the freezer to a slightly higher temperature to get the ice to freeze slower.

If the ice is falling out of the tray already flaky, then the problem is in the tray

I would suggest taking all existing ice out if the unit. cleaning everything then checking if there is a change.

as a second experiment, you could wait for an empty tray, then manually pour distilled water into the ice tray and see if you get better ice. in that case your water has too many minerals etc.


Outdoor gas appliance quick disconnect incompatible

There are purposeful differences in gas line connectors between portable PROPANE systems and NATURAL GAS systems typically found in houses when supplied by gas utilities. The reason they are different is because the GAS is very different and they are NOT interchangeable. ANSI Z21.54 is for PROPANE, ANSI Z21.41 is for NATURAL GAS. They don't match up because they are not SUPPOSED to match up.


Crawlspace Insulation Upside Down Replacement

Yes, cleaning and preparing for the reinstallation of insulation is important.

Working in a confined area, like a crawl space, requires special protection and ventilation...be careful or hire it done.

Installing batt insulation without a paper vapor barrier is preferred, but it sounds like you’re going to install a vapor barrier after the batt insulation is installed. Vapor barriers are to be installed on the “warm” side of the “envelope”, because of the Dew point.

Yes, the crawl space vents are used to dry out the moisture coming up into the crawl space, but it also dries out the VAPOR coming through the batts and turning into moisture at the Dew Point.

If the vents are blocked, then a dehumidifier may be required where you live, but the vapor barrier is still installed on the WARM side.


Can I cut into concrete floor in kitchen?

Yes, of course you can cut a trench through your concrete floor.

Be sure that you locate any existing wires or pipes that are in the path of the cut. A concrete saw with water will keep the dust to a minimum. Using a wet/dry vac to immediately suck up the water/dust will also help.  Be sure to seal off the space as best you can with plastic sheeting to keep the concrete dust out of the rest of the house.

You will likely want to dig below the concrete to make a space for the new pipe and then back fill to the level of the bottom of the concrete with sand or pea gravel.  Finally fill the cut with concrete and trowel it level with the uncut part.

Is it a lot of work?  Sure, but there is often no other way.


The main shutoff for city water in the majority of the Pacific north west is at the curb. If an older home it will be a concrete box with a metal plate the meter reader lifts to read the usage. Clean off the grass and dirt open the plate some times you will need to lift the top off to get to the shutoff. Lift and wiggle using the meter reader hole and you will find the shutoff valve some times covered with a little dirt. Don't jerk up on the cement cover or it may crack/break. If a newer home the box may be green plastic similar removal process. As others have said your photo is of the gas meter& shutoff. Don't feel like a fool you now know where to shut the gas off if you smell gas in the house. Down south of you they recommend a gas wrench to be strapped to the pipe, a few years back the utility was offering cheap stamped ones for 2$ but a crescent or open end wrench will work, this was for earthquake safety since they are saying the big one off shore is due in the next 100 years and you may not be able to find a wrench (night , building damage or other problem) having the wrench at the shutoff could prevent a fire.


How can I get new sections of fencing to match the existing fencing?

The original galvanizing of the fence was in a bath of molten tin (hot dip galvanizing).

Since this is not practical for the old fence, there are cold galvanizing compounds.  They are zinc rich paints.

They will not stop rust that has broken through the original coating.  Rust must be removed, then coat the bare steel.

The aerosol versions would be very expensive for painting fence, but the compound is available in a brush on version.  Search "Cold Galvanizing Compound for Corrosion Control" and look for liquid brush on versions.


For prototyping, there are many methods. For plastic, 3D printing and CNC routing are two popular ones today.

For actual production, though, the methods would be different. Options include:

Injection Molding
Roto Molding
Thermoforming
Vacuum Forming
and others...


120 volts on the metal for the breaker box

First, shut main power off and use a big wooden stick to do it. Seriously.

Finish reading this on your phone.  Every ground in your house is hazardous.

Then, re-test to confirm the problem has in fact gone away.   If the problem is still there, then call the power company to report an outage, tell them what you are getting and there should be a truck out there within a few hours.  (That last promise void if your power company has recently experienced a weather calamity like hurricane, flood, or ice storm.)

OK, the problem is gone.  If you can set yourself up a safe environment to do this, and a reasonable testing regimen, you can turn off all the branch breakers, and turn on the main breaker.   Then, turn on branch breakers one at a time until the problem returns. You're gonna want to use the broomstick for all this.  If a single branch circuit causes the problem to appear, note that down.  This is not critical to fixing the problem, so don't take any undue risks collecting this data. But it will behelpful information later, this circuit has a ground fault.

Now with everything off again, and the panel testing safe: off to the library you go.  You need to pack your brain with all you can about the

Grounding Electrode System

This actually is a fairly simple beast, but its few parts must all be correct.  And "beast" is the operative word, because a stoutly built grounding electrode system prevents this from happening by brute force.

The starting point is something that ties to Earth: either grounding rod(s) that are (current spec) 8 feet long, and 2 rods (unless you do a test that costs more than another rod); a water main if it can be assured it's all metal (and if you're in Flint, it may not be since so many water supply pipes are being replaced with plastic), or a purposefully constructed UFER connection to your concrete slab's reinforcing rod network (by far the best, but nobody ever remembers to spec it.)

Then you have some nice, beefy ground wires (e.g. stranded #4) from the electrode to the main panel.  This ground must be one continuous run, it cannot be cut and spliced.  (But can be copper-welded ie brazed).

At the main panel end, it firmly attaches to the metal of the service panel, and/or the grounding bar.  I am fond of belt and suspenders, I use a thru lug on the panel proper, and then onto the grounding bar.  This is what assures the equipment grounding system (panel case and all those green and bare branch circuit wires) cannot be far from earth  potential.

The above system is the one that has failed for you.  As you can imagine, it is not a sexy or attention-demanding system, and is oft-forgotten.

Look for anything changed or out-of-the-ordinary.  The classic is the water company fitting a smart meter that happens to be plastic.

Now is the time to give that system a thorough inspection and fix/overfix anything that is deficient or not up to the latest codes. You want this stuff beefy.   In a case like this, there can be a violent tug-of-war.  It's important for safety that the grounding electrode win and the branch circuit breaker be forced to trip.  If the branch circuit wins and kills the grounding electrode, then you get this failure mode.

Once all that's done, then come back 'round on the ground fault issue on the bad circuit you identified. If you did a good job here, it will trip the breaker instead of electrify the house.


Assuming we are talking about the US/Canada, I'll make some basic assumptions:

Not the stove just the oven would almost always mean electric oven. That is because gas is great for a cooktop but not as useful for an oven. So typically a combination cooktop/oven will use gas but not when they are separate.
Electric oven typically means 30A or 40A dedicated 240V circuit.

Assuming that is the case, you can't add receptacles to the circuit because:

The receptacles need to be on a 15A or 20A circuit. A 30A or larger breaker is not allowed and is not safe. It turns out that in theory it is OK to tap up to 10' away using the usual 12 AWG wire to 20A receptacles. However...
If the manufacturer's installation instructions require a dedicated circuit then technically code would require a dedicated circuit (because code says "do what the manufacturer says as long as it doesn't conflict with the code"). But practically speaking, you are likely OK except beware - if you try to use a 1500W small appliance at the same time as your oven is the high-energy-usage part of a cycle, you risk tripping a breaker.

The whole situation is a bit strange though, as kitchens are normally (for a while now) supposed to have receptacles near all countertops for small appliances. The island should be no exception. If this is a truly new house then you may have recourse with the builder to meet code requirements. But if it is just "new to you" then it is likely grandfathered in without the extra receptacles.

Three solutions:

Simplest, usually: Run a new 12 AWG cable for receptacles connected to a 20A breaker.
Much more expensive unless running a cable = "tear up concrete": Connect the existing incoming power to a small subpanel and connect the oven (with appropriate size breakers) and new receptacles (20A) to the subpanel. Whether this is technically/code-compliant possible will depend on a number of specific details.
A hanging power pendant


Can you use dishwasher hoses for a washer?

I'm no plumber, but I've had my share of washing machine lint clogs. A washing machine puts out a LOT of water at one time, and that water comes with plenty of lint.

A typical setup (but not the only way to do it) is to have the output from the washing machine sit in a laundry tub. That (a) provides a buffer of sorts - if the main drain can't take the water that fast the tub can hold some of it as it drains out and (b) because the end of the hose is accessible you can attach a disposable metal mesh lint trap. I don't recommend trying the same thing with the kitchen sink - you will likely end up with the sink overflowing if the drain isn't 100% clear at the time, as most sinks are far smaller than a laundry tub. On the other hand, if you connect the hose directly into the drain line (with an appropriate trap AFTER the connection), you will be putting lint directly into the same section of pipe that is routinely getting grease and food from the sink.

I actually don't think the size of the drain hose itself will be a problem - my dishwasher drain hoses are similar size to my washing machine drain hose (though different materials) - the issues are the total volume of water in a very short amount of time and potential lint accumulation.


How can I support drywall with a steel post on an outside corner?

In light of the new and important information mentioned in the comment below,  your best move is to fur out the entire wall just enough to clear the post. You may then want to follow the advice I gave originally.

Original answer:

You can work with that and avoid any sort of bumpout. Just cut a triangular "stud" as large as possible that fits in the available space. Set your circular or table saw to 45 degrees and cut a few sample blocks. Use a straightedge across each wall plane to see what you have room for. You could even hang drywall on one face and then install the stud with screws through the drywall before you add construction adhesive to all contact points.

Ideally you anchor it top and bottom, and even a gob of construction adhesive against the post flanges will do. Even better if you can glue to the drywall and the post itself. As a system it'll be rock solid. Let the adhesive set up for a day before nailing on your corner bead.

If you're wrapping that beam with drywall, install a strip of half inch plywood or OSB under the beam, between the flanges at each end, to get the drywall below the flange and bolt heads.


How do I find the switch plates behind the plasterboard walls?

I'd use a toner-tracer designed for locating telecommunications wires. Remove each breaker, hook up to the bare wires, and use the tracer to find the first segment.  Pull it, and lather rinse repeat to the end of each run.

These are also called "fox and hound" units.


Can I use a twisted-pair cable for ADSL and phone?

After some testing I finally found the answer myself.

I connected the cable's shielding to ground and I connected the wires this way:

(phone cable) - (cat6 cable)
  White ADSL  - Blue
   Gray ADSL  - WhiteBlue
  White Phone - Orange
   Gray Phone - WhiteOrange

(colors are for french phone cables, they are different in other countries)

I soldered they directly. Maybe it would be better to use a RJ45 connector.

Now my modem is synchronized at 8,5 Mb/s. Still some CRC errors, but it's not a big problem since I can get something like 7,1Mb/s when downloading.


Water Leak Detector Recommendations - Adjustable Volume and Easy to Silence

You might be over-engineering this. Modern code demands a cutoff switch in the pan and this doesn't rely on your tenants being there (or paying attention). You just suddenly discover that the HVAC unit is off and the thermostat is dead. The names vary between "HVAC float switch" and "air conditioner moisture overflow switch", but the idea is you put them in the pan and they kill the AC to prevent water damage. If you have a condensate pump, the modern ones have this switch built-in.


How does a roof replacement impact recommended timing of solar panel installation?

You certainly don't want to install the solar panels before redoing the roof. Outside of that obvious point, I don't think it matters much. In Theory, having the panel supports installed as part of the process of redoing the roofing could make things simpler and better sealed, but in practice there are very few, if any, teams trained to coordinate these tasks.


Do I need to have receptacles that I added tested before selling my home?

Unless the regulations have changed in the two years since I last sold a house...

No, the work you describe - provided it is indoors - is too minor to require certification.

The buyer's surveyor may make a comment in his survey report that the wiring hasn't been tested for at least 10 years.  That might also appear in the legal Seller's Pack.  This could result in the buyer requesting a test, but that is down to them.

My understanding is that Scottish law is different.


Why is my Panasonic Whisper series bath fan starting up so slowly?

To make these fans quieter, the fans are designed to not create as much turbulence, which means they "slip" more when the air is not moving already, i.e. when you first turn them on. In addition the Panasonic fans have a built-in damper that prevents the cold air from flowing back into the room when the fan is off, so before it can move air it must get that damper to open, and when it is just starting there is not enough air pressure yet to open that damper. All of that can give you the impression that they are not yet working, but they are. This is likely just something you need to learn to live with, i.e. turn the fan on as soon as you enter and maybe use a timer to have it run on a while after you leave.

That said, there are a couple of things to check;

Assuming this was a retrofit? If so, did the old fan system have a damper somewhere else in the air duct, like at the vent hood at the very end where it comes out of the outside wall? If so, then your poor little fan has to open TWO dampers. In that case, get rid of one of them.
Is the vent pipe too long or has too many bends in it? If so, is there a way to shorten / straighten it? If not then you again may have to just live with it.
Is there a proper vent pipe at all? Some unscrupulous types will just dump the air into the attic area and there may be an obstruction or insulation blocking the air flow. if there is no vent pipe, it may be a code violation and your HVAC contractor should correct it.
Do you have proper "make up" air flow coming into the bathroom? A common mistake is that people have no grill on the door and then have thick carpet coming right up to the door, so that air cannot get through the crack in the bottom. When a vent fan pulls air OUT of the room, air (from the rest of the house) must be able to get back IN to make up for it, those little fans can't pull a vacuum. So if there is no way for the air to get into that bathroom, or even (in extreme cases) the house is sealed up so tight that NO air gets in ANYWHERE, the fan has to struggle to get anything moving.


How long does setting-type joint compound have to dry before priming?

It depends on thickness, temperature and humidity. Most of the time, overnight is sufficient.  Latex primers are more forgiving of any subsurface moisture.

I have a moisture content meter I use after water damage repairs.  Interior MC should be under 15%, exterior under 25%.

You would want a full dry before sealing with a shellac or oil based primer.
Blistering would be the likely result otherwise.


Digital relative humidity sensors are typically accurate to plus/minus 3% relative humidity throughout the entire 0-100% RH range, but closer to plus/minus 2% at 50% RH. At the bottom are some specs from the datasheet of a typical digital humidity sensor.

The simplest way to calibrate a relative humidity sensor is with table salt and water in a airtight container. Salt water calibration instructions. The basic concept is that an airtight container that has undissolved salt mixed with water at normal room temperatures will come to an equilibrium over time to exactly 75% relative humidity. You use the known 75% RH environment to calibrate your instrument.

I've had experience with mechanical hygrometers for cigar humidors, and I've found that they need to be calibrated but can be pretty accurate after calibration. I would recalibrate your mechanical hygrometer to the average of your two digital readings if you're unable to do the salt and water calibration. It would be difficult to put your thermostat into an airtight container, but maybe your Radio Shack or mechanical units will fit?


Small colored wires like this have an enamel coating that insulates the wire so that it does not short out to other wires or metal objects/surfaces. It is this coating that is making it so that you cannot just twist the wires together to complete the circuit.

The conventional way to rejoin wires of this ilk is to twist and solder. But first it will be necessary to very carefully scrape enamel coating off the surface of the wire using a sharp utility knife blade or safety razor blade.


How can I fasten baseboard over concrete?

Either could work.
I've also used trim-head screws in plastic plugs for base trim over concrete. That would involve pre-drilling to mark screw location, then drilling the concrete and installing the plugs, then screwing on the trim. The holes would be larger, but that's mostly a problem if you're using stained trim.
Of course you could fur out the wall to create a more standard backing situation. You'd lose 1-1/2" of room space.


The usual way I'd hook up a house to a tank or cistern (such as in a low-yield well situation) would be to have a pump going into a pressure system (pressure tank + switch) and then supplying the rest of the house. The pressure tank would normally operate at 40/60psi: When you draw water, you're always pulling from the tank until the pressure drops below 40psi, at which point the pump kicks on and runs until the pressure is 60psi.

This system also shows the supply side coming from the well, but the supply is really irrelevant.

You can also use a jet pump or pretty much any other type of pump as opposed to a submersible so long as it's capable of reaching 60psi. Some people also run at 30/50. Over 80 and you risk toilet tank valves and faucets having trouble/leaking, and too low and it's just not useful (and the pressure switch probably has a low operating limit too).

There are also pressure switches that have a shut-off feature where if the pressure drops below 20psi, they totally switch off because they detect an "out of water" situation. This is a nice cheap way to go as opposed to more expensive electronic shut-off systems, but when they trip they require a manual reset (flipping the little arm on the side).


Removing bulb causes a different fixture to go out

It's difficult to tell for sure, as I'm not sure where all the wires in the box go. But it looks like the lights are run in series, rather than in parallel as they should be.

To fix it.

Turn off the power and verify that it's off.
Connect all the black wires together in one twist-on wire connector.
Connect all the white wire together in the other twist-on wire connector.

This image shows how electricity moves through the circuit.

Notice that the neutral wire "coming back from" light B connects to the hot wire "going to" light A. Then the neutral "coming back from" A, connects the the other circuit neutrals.

The only way that this wiring would make sense, is if B was a switch controlling A.

removing the bulb from either A or B interrupts the circuit, and causes both light to go out.


Cabling for outdoor wireless access point

Be sure to use a shielded Cat5e or Cat6 cable, as Ubiquiti clearly specifies the use of shielded cable and connectors for outside access points.

Conduit is not required if you use the correct type of cable. Ubiquiti would like to sell you ToughCable and connectors, but IMHO those are overpriced .vs. any other cable that meets the need (exterior and shielded) so my Ubiquiti outdoor APs are connected to another brand that I could get for considerably less cash. It can also be difficult to keep the cable bend radius reasonable if running in 1/2" conduit with sharp corners around the building corner. If you want to use conduit, make the corner with sweeps.

Depending on the building layout and wiring access, running the cable up near the roof (or on the soffit, if there's a soffit) is generally less obtrusive than in the middle of the wall. It's also, not at all incidentally, a drier, more protected location for the hole in the wall (or you can come out the soffit if you have access from in the attic.)

If you are using any of the outdoor APs with the stock omni antennas, your best method is to run direct burial shielded Cat5e or Cat6 to a pole in the yard somewhat away from the house. The APs are well weatherproofed and don't need the shelter of the house, and a pole location in the center of your coverage area will give the best coverage. Conduit with sweeps (not sharp corners) would not be a bad idea if digging that trench, and removes the requirement that the cable be direct-burial rated, though it's usually not an extra cost on the cable. The conduit is a small extra cost in never having to dig the trench again.


Use a commercial grout cleaning product or a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water.  Spray the solution and let it sit for a few minutes then scrub with a sponge or brush.  Repeat until the stains are removed.  It may take multiple tries.


Why am I measuring low voltage when I connect this fluorescent fixture to an existing circuit?

Simple answer to your question is:
All load fixtures must be wired in parallel, never in series. This means you need to feed each fixture with 120vac. You can use a single run of wire, but the feed to the next fixture must be wired so that the hot and neutral are always connected uninterrupted to each fixture. Practically speaking, the black hot wire coming from the switch must be connected to the black wire going to the next fixture as well as the black wire for the local fixture in the same wirenut.  Same goes for the neutral and ground conductors. This is parallel wiring.  If you still have a low voltage reading, then you have a defective ballast or an open neutral.


What is an efficient way of removing thick grout haze?

You need to keep it wet.  I use vinegar water solution and try to let it sit on the tile for a good 10-20 mins.  Scoop it up and repeat.  If you are polishing it dry you will make it worse (or no better).

Also next time take a heavy dawn/water mix and rub it on your tile before you grout.  When it is dry then you grout.  And your grout slides off the tile.


How to fix an "open ground" on a receptacle that seems grounded?

Well, you either have:

No connection at the box despite appearing to have one (quite
possible with aluminum wiring if the appropriate methods are not
followed, from what I understand - but I have limited personal experience there)

or

the ground wire to those boxes is broken or not connected somewhere
between those boxes and the main panel. Which actually makes lots of sense if you have two boxes in this state; probably one is connected to the other, and the wire is broken or not connected to the one that the other connects to.

I trust that as an aluminum wiring house owner your new receptacles are marked as suitable for aluminum wire?

Edit: No? Seriously?

As @Speedy Petey says, that really isn't an acceptable alternative to using the correct receptacles. House fires are not much fun. As for tracking down the problem, if this end is connected properly, you need to check the far end of the wire for a proper connection - you may find that you can identify which outlet is "next in line" by identifying the power wires feeding the probelm outlets - look there for a poor connection between the two ground wires.

@Chief Two Pencils seems to be failing to observe that you have aluminum romex with a ground wire - the problem is not a lack of ground wire, it's a lack of that ground wire being connected at some point.

You are failing to understand that the connection to the box does not "magically ground the outlet" - the box is being grounded (or rather, should be) by being connected to the ground wire coming from the cable. That wire is not connected all the way to the main panel ground from the two problem outlets. You, or a competent electrician (I'd really have doubts about continuing to use one that suggest that anti-ox paste is an adequate substitute for using CO/ALR or COALR marked devices) need to track down where that lack of connection is happening, and fix it, with a connector approved for use on aluminum wire (and it may well not be connected now becasue it was not connected with a suitable connector, or not properly prepared.)

The US CPSC advocates a more through approach of pigtailing copper wire to the ends of the aluminum wire with an approved connector to eliminate the aluminum connection fire hazard in a permanent fashion. Then you can use nice normal Cu-only connectors.

This is not a place for "creative" solutions. The house you burn down may be your own.


You have an open neutral somewhere in the line

From the meter readings you took with the breaker off, namely no continuity between any pair of wires, even neutral to ground which should have a low resistance between them since they are connected at the main panel, as well as the neutral "ringing" as hot with a non-contact voltage detector, it sounds like you have an open neutral somewhere.  I would go down this circuit from the failed point towards the beginning, replacing failure-prone backstab connections into receptacles with proper shepherd's hooks around the side-screws instead, and making sure there isn't a failed wirenut splice somewhere, either.


Not an uncommon problem. I have had a lot of problems with GFI's the last few years myself. There are a few likely causes:

A fault still exists and will not allow the GFI to reset.
The GFI tripped due to an overload and the differential circuit was damaged, thus the outlet is now toast.  This seems to be a common complaint with standard 15 amp GFIC's. they don't take current spikes well.  In your case 1500 watts on 120VAC is pulling around 12.5 amps, which is getting close to max capacity. Sometimes the initial current draw is much higher as the resistive load needs to heat up a bit before  it reaches its operating impedance. A "cold" load can offer a much lower impedence and cause a short duration, but large spike of current to flow at turn on. Very common on motor loads, but not uncommon with filament heating or lighting.
Sometimes if you turn off the power to this GFI at the breaker, then push the test and reset buttons, then turn the power back on again, the GFI will default to the tripped condition, but will reset.
Disconnect any wires connected to the "Load" side of the GFI. Unplug all loads from the GFI itself, and give it a try.
If none of the above items work for you, you will probably need to replace the GFI. Find one with a 20 amp rating instead of 15 amps, assuming that 15 amp is what you have now.


Russian motor from washing machine with 4 wires coming out. How to use for windmill generator?

Washing machine motor (especially an old one) is most likely to be an asynchronous motor - they can't work as generator. The minimal voltage you see comes from residual magnetization of the rotor acquired over the years. A brand-new specimen wouldn't yield even that.

You should have noted how the motor was connected before you took it apart. One pair is probably the main phase and the other the startup phase, powered via a capacitor to achieve a phase shift. There is no winding for the rotor.
Capacitor start induction motor on Wikipedia

About the photos you posted: I can see the word "kondensator" which means "capacitor", and "6mkF 600V" which seems to be "6μF, 600V". That most likely is the spec of the capacitor required for operation.
I think it reads 50Hz, 180W, power factor 0.9 (cos fi), 220V, 1.5A.

/edit: Ah, I forgot about one thing. Washing machine motors usually are bit more complicated because they have twin windings to be ran in reverse and often have yet another, "high speed" winding for spinning. But that's all in the stator, the rotor is just a hunk of metal just like any other induction motor. If you want to learn more about your motor, google yields some schematics if you ask about this model: https://www.google.ru/#q=%D0%B0%D0%B2%D0%B5+071+4%D1%81

(A tip for future research on russian and soviet parts: open google.ru, it has Cyrillic on-screen keyboard so you can actually type the model you have)


There are furniture moving pads that are put under the legs of heavy items to glide them into place.

This version has a slick bottom and is meant to be used on carpets. There are similar ones with a carpeted bottom (or cover) to glide on hard surfaces.

These or similar skids could be placed on the bottom of your structure with recessed screws or other attachment mechanisms.

  Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


How to connect a DIY thermostat to the HVAC System

Since you haven't supplied much detail, I'll have to use nonspecific examples based on typical installation methods.
Furnace and Condensing unit
If you have a setup where you have a furnace, and an outdoor condensing unit. The wiring will be similar to this (Note: This is a basic overview, not actual wiring).

Basically, the R wire provides power to the thermostat. W, Y and G are energized depending on the state of the thermostat. For example. If the thermostat is set to the COOL mode, and the temperature in the room is above the set point. The Y and G terminals of the thermostat will be energized. This tells the furnace to turn on the blower at high speed, and  the condensing unit to turn on. Alternatively, if the thermostat is set to the HEAT mode, and the temperature in the room is below the set point. The W terminal will be energized, which tells the furnace to turn on.
Heat Pump
If you have a heat pump, the wiring will be similar to this.

Here the R wire again provides power to the thermostat. This type of setup uses either an O, B, or O/B terminals to change the state of the reversing valve in the heat pump. In this type of setup, the thermostat works similar to the example above, though it also has to manage an extra terminal.
Some thermostats offer both an O and a B terminal.

When the thermostat is in COOL mode and calls for cool, the O terminal will be energized. If you have a system where the reversing valve is normally in HEAT mode, you'll use the O terminal to move the reversing valve to COOL mode.  When the thermostat is in HEAT mode and calls for heat, the B terminal will be energized. If you have a system where the reversing valve is normally in COOL mode, you'll use the B terminal to move the reversing valve to HEAT mode.
Some thermostats offer and O/B terminal, and will have a jumper to select which function it provides.

In this case, you'll set the jumper based on the type of system you have. Then when the thermostat calls for heat or cool, the O/B terminal will be energized appropriately.
For more information on the C terminal, please see this answer.


What tool works with this star-shaped screw with a post in the middle?

Those are tamper proof torx screws.  You will need the appropriate bit.  These are usually sold as kits of security bits.


I would clean it off using a push broom.  There would be little risk of scratching.


rust-proof solution for attaching 2x4 to 4x4?

People use the wrong screws outside quite a lot, but thankfully there are good alternatives.  Outdoor decking and fencing are commonly assembled with coated screws advertised for such.  They typically come in tan or green depending on the application and can hold up for a long time without rust or staining the wood.

Stainless steel screws are another option for even more rust prevention, but they will be quite a bit more expensive.  This is pretty over the top unless you're building a boat dock or similar.

For larger fasteners, hot-dipped galvanized lag bolts are good.  Galvanized screws might exist, but I'm not familiar with them.  Certainly you can get galvanized nails, but I think that the coated deck screws must have filled the need that galvanized screws would have because I never see them.


well system pressure stops after a couple minutes

I don't quite understand what you are reporting. When you said Recently, "I have noticed that pressure will start then stop for several seconds and return. Tank pressure is within the required range", what do you mean? Are you speaking of the pump or the flow of water?  You said that the water pressure stinks, so I have  to ask "what is the water pressure"? What is the pump "on" pressure and what is the pump "off" pressure? The tank does not control the water pressure or the amount of water delivered to the faucets. How much water can you use before the pump cycles? Your answers will help us give direct answers to your problem. How old is the well and what type pump do you have? Is it a submersible (down in the well), a jet pump (above ground), A rod pump (very old type), or something else? Your problem could be any  number of things and a better explanation of the existing conditions is needed. Many of us lived with water wells as have I. Please respond.


All the underlayments I have used for laminate are flexible. With a flexible base your tile will crack and the grout will crumble, not in years time but with each step. So I would say No you can not use this as a base for your tile.


Generic water-based polyurethane for concrete desk?

There's no reason to think that won't work. Urethane can be used over almost any stable, non-soluble surface. I'm a bit concerned that your surface slurry resulted in a chalky finish that might tend to lift when you apply the urethane, but the first coat should seal it in.


Can someone explain how this makes sense electrically?

However, if I only turn off the lights breaker, and go into the switch panel with my voltmeter, I am still detecting 100V AC across the switch (with it off), even though the lights stay off when I turn the switch on. … Can anyone tell me what might be going on?

Coupling between wires (inductance and capacitance in parallel wires).

You say you have strange long runs between outlets and switches — if any of these extra lengths run in parallel, this is a great environment for the voltage from one to be induced in the other if it's disconnected.

If you try putting a load, like a small light bulb, across that 100 V, it will vanish (read 0 V), because there is no significant current capacity in this coupling. It might even go away if you were to attach an analog voltmeter (which is more of a load because current from the line to move the needle) instead of a digital one (which typically has a 1 MΩ input impedance that presents almost no load).


How can I determine where power enters my bathroom light circuit?

OP seems to have done a scarper but for anyone else reading this:

The one sure way to find where the power enters a circuit is to completely disconnect each cable and drop a test load across its wires.

I detach the cables one at a time and re-connect each one before going on to the next. This saves having to mark everything first -- although it does involve a lot of running back and forth to the circuit breaker panel.

My favorite test load is a neon indicator lamp on a short piece of lamp cord with two insulated alligator clips. But almost any kind of lamp can be pressed into service.


Mid project finishing basement: should I rip out new framing?

Your concerns are valid.

If condensate does form, you will also likely have to deal with mold. I would definitely rip it out and add high density foam. Not sure why glue was used, but am guessing that it'd be a lot easier to use Power loads to nail the framing after the insulation is installed.

I treated my basement framing with anti-fungal/anti-mold treatment as an additional precaution.


Estimated strength of U-profile shelf standards?

While they may work for a table that is shallow, not cantilevered off of the wall very far, it really is not the appropriate hardware for the job. Assuming you fasten the shelving standards to the brick wall with the appropriate fasteners, i feel the week link in this plan is the little tabs on the back of the bracket that hold the bracket to the standard.
I would invest in these brackets.
I have used them to make desks, they are great and come in a variety of size's to accommodate shallow or deep desk/workbench's.
Here is a link to a desk question that I answered that shows the brackets in use.


My push lawn mower will start when primed, then it dies unless I tip it backwards

It sounds a lot like the fuel filter or tank outlet has an obstruction which drops away when the deck is tilted. Assuming you do have an inline fuel filter replacing that can't hurt. You can drain and flush the tank while you've got the hose disconnected.

A second possibility is the governor, which often consists of a plastic flap by the flywheel. Since that is generally towards the rear of the mower, grass clippings or rodent houses will obstruct things when the mower is flat and drop onto the governor when it's tilted. Removing the shroud and taking a look is simple.

Speaking of simple, check the mixture adjustment too. It could be set too lean. I wouldn't go crazy on blind adjustments without the service manual but the screw should travel in both directions rather than being at one extreme.


Looks like vinyl tile to me (VCT), judging by the straight lines in the upper photo. You're not going to be able to repair that without replacing the tile, and you won't be able to match tile that old very well. This is especially true if it's sheet vinyl.

I'd try gently tapping it flat with a hammer, and re-wax the floor to fill it a bit. Any other filler will show worse than the damage itself.


Is "don't mix data and power cables" and "don't loop power cables" still valid nowadays?

Yes, its still valid.

Power and data cable coatings are insulation - designed to protect from electric shock and to avoid short circuits.  They do not interfere with magnetic fields.

I do not know what kind of shielding you are talking about - I have never seen any modern power or data cables with shielding that blocks magnetic fields.  Magnetic fields are quite pervasive.

In response to your follow up question:

The size and strength of a magnetic field is relative to the amount of current flowing through the wire within.  For very low voltage wires, like network cables, bundling them together generally doesn't create a strong enough field to disturb the other lines in the bundle.

However, if you loop the cables, you end up running the same current through very nearly the same space - over, and over, and over - and this can amplify the magnetic field that's created, enough that it can interfere with other signals.

With power cables, they run much more current and so create much bigger fields.  Big and strong enough to interfere with the tiny currents going thru the other cables.  Looping them is even stronger and more problematic.


What type of wood for moist exterior location that is also paintable

As long as you make sure that the wood is isolated from the source of moisture as much as possible (or better still remove the source) then any decent quality wood properly primed and painted should be OK.

I would also consider getting the wood treated first.


Can I perform a large ceiling drywall repair myself?

Yes, this is certainly doable, but I guess an assistant would be very useful when handling pieces of drywall and attaching them to the ceiling.

What you essentially will have to do is remove the affected drywall (not necessary to remove entire sheets - if a sheet is only partially damaged you can cut the damaged part away and leave the unaffected part) and then patch the area. No major difference compared to a small area patch - you will have to replace the damaged material entirely from one closest stud to another, studs are separated with rather small distance.

This will constitute lots of tedious work and will be rather dirty but it is certainly doable by a DIYer.


It'd be better if you modify the duct.  A dryer vent that fills up with lint is a serious fire hazard and even if you're sure you'll clean it regularly, the next homeowner may not.
You can find a lot of videos on Youtube about how to work with that kind of ducting.
I'm not sure if you'll need any materials; it may be possible to re-configure what you already have.  But if you do need anything, the HVAC section of your local home improvement store should be your first stop.


I suggest not reusing anything ; disconnect it at the copper tubing and put in a new stainless flex pipe ( and adapter as necessary) to connect to a new grill. When I replaced a similar grill , I also found the steel pedestal tube/pipe was  also severely weakened by corrosion at ground level.


Use Doorbird D202 Doorbell to open/close Hormann Promatic Garage Door

Without reading all the linked manuals, I will try to answer your question.  Control circuits come in a few forms, but two major types are "input voltage" and "contact closure".

For instance, for a typical air conditioner to turn on, you need to apply 24 volts across the terminals for its relay to make it turn on.  This voltage is supplied by an external transformer.  You can't just hook up a basic switch to the unit and make it turn on and off.  You have to supply an external voltage.  This is probably also the case in commercial entry doors that use a solenoid device to open a latch.

The contact closure control is another major type and is usually what garage door openers use.  If you take the two wires going to your garage door button and touch them together (just like the switch does), then the door opens.  You're not supplying a voltage - just connecting a wire momentarily.

When your doorbell system refers to "zero potential" its talking about a simple contact closure that doesn't supply voltage.  Connecting the "Electric Door Opener" wires to terminals 20 and 21a of your garage door opener should do what you want.  To test this, you could power up the doorbell and use the door opener function while measuring continuity between the two electric door opener wires.  They should be normally open and should have continuity briefly when the door open command is sent.

Terminal 5 on the garage door opener is used to supply a voltage to something like a lighted button or some other "smart" controller that needs power to operate.


Would increasing pipe size just after the meter give better flow without increasing pressure too much?

Bad idea.  Enlarging hot water lines will dramatically increase the inventory of water sitting in those lines.  I.e. How much water is in the lines themselves.

I.e. How much cold water those hot water lines are full of, when you first turn on the shower.

I.e. How long you must wait for the cold water to be pushed through and become hot.

You reduce droops by not allowing any one appliance to suck up all the water, and you do that with flow restrictions.  The single best thing you can do to ease water droop is fit low-flow showerheads.  Of course, if it's a shower only, with no tub diverter, that means waiting even longer for initial hot water.

Here's how I'd fix that.  So I would couple that with minimizing the size of the water pipes, and have a homerun for each shower, for both hot and cold lines.  And tap both right at the top of the water heater.  That will ease pressure droops, and pressure droops will affect both hot and cold equally, so no chilly/scalding surges.

So for instance a 3/8" run just for each shower.  A 3/8" pipe has 1/4 the inventory of a 3/4" pipe, so it warms up 4 times faster.  Such a small pipe would make sense given your high water pressure and a low-flow head.


Have you verified that the flapper valve is seating properly? Even a brand new toilet can run if the flapper valve gets hung-up and is not allowed to close fully.

If you know for sure that the flapper valve is moving freely and tries to seal the drain pipe then try turning off the water flow and see if water is flowing in from the septic system. That's the only way I know that sediment would be able to enter the tank unless it was already in the line somehow.

Check those and report back if neither help to further evaluate.


How do I know if my wiring is aluminium or copper?

Look in the panel
Carefully remove the cover of the main service panel, and take a look at the wiring. Looking at the neutral/ground bus bars, is probably the quickest and easiest way to tell.

You'll notice in this image, there is a mixture of both aluminum and copper wiring.
Look at the receptacle wiring.
Turn off power to the circuit you'll be inspecting at the breaker/fuse box. Then remove the cover plate from the receptacle. Use a flashlight to peek at the wiring attached to the receptacle. If you still can't tell. Remove the screws holding the receptacle in place, and carefully pull the receptacle out of the box.


Electric panel radiator won't turn on but it is warm where the gauge is

Without the manual I can't tell but my guess is the green tab sets the turn on temperature and the red stop is the turn off temperature.

Set the green up to 25°C and see what happens. Set the red where you want it to shut off.


You can run the light from the switch. This is a one hour job for an electrician. It doesn't get much faster than that.


There are numerous plug-in dimmers that can be used with floor or table lamps, for example

These can be used with incandescent or halogen bulbs.  If you are considering CFL or LED bulbs, you need to select dimmable versions of the bulbs and a dimmer specially designed for those type bulbs.

You also might consider using a wall mounted dimmer replacing the existing switch for your ceiling light.

This would allow you to set a level and turn it on or off, maintaining the same level.

In general, when trying to create a cozy atmosphere, people tend to use indirect lighting and multiple, low level sources rather than a single source. This obviously is a much bigger project, but something to consider. Also, using lampshades on floor and table lamps that are opaque and only cast light up and down (not sideways) helps to create an atmosphere.


What should I do to level an uneven floor with a potential load bearing wall above?

In general, load bearing walls are placed above and parallel to (with as little offset as possible) the beams below them.

I would span another beam or mini beam parallel to the first one, to support the joists mid span.  I would start out with screw jacks (raising a new beam) and some form of force plate over your slab (steel over plywood to support and distribute the bottom of the jacks), and S l o w l y elevate.  2 inches is a lot of movement.  This elevation process should be done over months.  You may find that stabilization is all that is necessary, (or prudent). If you add 1/2 to 3/4 at your lowest point, you might be happy.

Monitor what is happening at the original beam.  You may find a gap developing there.. If that is the case, you may have to raise the original beam slightly or shim the beam to joist connection with tapered shims.

Once you're happy with the final leveling, permanent columns (and footings below them) are the proper conclusion.


Is this a compliant way to control three circuits with two switches?

That isn't three circuits, it's only two. The Romex on the left is the power coming in from your distribution box, and the other two are your two loads. Each switch is connected between the incoming power and one of the loads.

I'm not sure why there are so many wirenuts on the supply side — it seems that if one wirenut can connect three wires, then one should be all you need. Get rid of the extra pigtails.


Can I use an existing Ground Rod for Sub-Panel in Detached Garage (Meter box is using the rod currently)

You must tie to the existing grounding rod...
Since there's a rod present there already, you must tie your new subpanel's grounding electrode conductor to it, as per NEC 250.50 and the reference to Part III of Article 250 in NEC 250.30(A).
...and may be required to drive a second
If your existing rod is judged not to meet the 25ohm standard in NEC 250.53(A)(2), or if the AHJ wishes it, you may need to drive a second grounding rod 6-8' away (or more, if you wish) from the first.
You can either tie to the existing grounding electrode conductor with a 6AWG copper wire and an appropriate tap connector, or simply run the new rod's grounding electrode conductor back to the grounding bar on the subpanel, though.


I'm not a plumber; but, have a lot of life experiences. 1st - the "Dad" issue. We mean well; but, sometimes stuff just happens, If the toilet wasn't blocked before you think your dad broke the wax ring, there's a good chance it fell into the sewer line and that's your problem. If it was blocked before that then there's a good chance the sewer line collapsed under the concrete. My brother who lives in Florida has a home on a slab and had an identical problem. Unfortunately, it was an expensive fix.
Either way, your first step would be to remove the toilet and check the wax issue. It's an easy job - shut off main water supply (either in the garage or possibly against an outside wall), drain supply line (possibly at water heater), disconnect supply to toilet, remove 2 bolts securing toilet to floor, and lift toilet up and out of the way.
At this point you can check to see if wax ring is blocking drain, if not and you have necessary skills, rent a drain auger and attempt to clear drain, if not, call a professional plumber to assess problem and suggest remedies.
Good luck and stay safe.


Because of the low-slope, I would seal all around that flange rather than just dabbing roof tar on the nail heads. You are just one plugged scupper away from a bad rainy day...
Torch-down is great if you can get a small piece to cut up for this small job. Maybe beg a piece off a roofer you know or at a roofing job in your hood.
Elastomeric patching and coating compounds work good too, use a reinforcing fabric/mesh.


Is this type of ground wire connection NEC compliant?

Simply twisting is not enough. You need a mechanical connection as well. Wire nut, crimp, etc.

NEC

  110.14 Electrical Connections

  Because of different characteristics of dissimilar metals, devices
  such as pressure terminal or pressure splicing connectors and
  soldering lugs shall be identified for the material of the conductor
  and shall be properly installed and used. Conductors of dissimilar
  metals shall not be intermixed in a terminal or splicing connector
  where physical contact occurs between dissimilar conductors (such as
  copper and aluminum, copper and copper-clad aluminum, or aluminum and
  copper-clad aluminum), unless the device is identified for the purpose
  and conditions of use. Materials such as solder, fluxes, inhibitors,
  and compounds, where employed, shall be suitable for the use and shall
  be of a type that will not adversely affect the conductors,
  installation, or equipment.

  (B) Splices.

  Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified
  for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal
  or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to
  be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be
  soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall
  be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or
  with an insulating device identified for the purpose.

  Wire connectors or splicing means installed on conductors for direct
  burial shall be listed for such use.


How to attach a wood moulding trim around a backsplash

Construction adhesive would certainly do the job, but it would destroy the drywall when you remove it.

I'd use silicone caulk as both the adhesive and the caulk to the countertop. It'll be rock solid, and if you ever need to remove it you may be able to do so without ripping paper off the drywall. Just put 2 or 3 quarter-sized dabs along the back. They'll flatten out to create nice wide attachment pads.

Be sure to completely paint or seal the trim, front and back, before attaching. Water is a tough nemesis for wood.


How do I remove the handle of this utility sink faucet?

This type of knob has an internal splined hole which fits over the splined end of faucet stem. The knobs are typically made of die cast zinc or aluminium pot metal and then chrome plated. They are then fitted to a brass faucet stem. The screw at the top center of the knob fastens into a threaded hole in the end of the faucet stem to hold the knob in place.

It has been my experience that over time corrosion will occur with pot metal inside the knob spline. Commonly white in color this corrosion actually seems to expand in size from the original size of the spline hole inside the knob literally locking the knob in place. As you are finding this makes the knob very difficult to remove.

When I have had to remove such knobs I have tried the same Liquid Wrench as you did but multiple applications over a couple of days. I also seem to recall trying heating up white vinegar and applying that. A syringe is useful for this application. Ultimately I found that repeated rocking the knob back and forth with good force helps break the hold of the corrosion and allowing more of the solvent to enter the spline joint.

In the very worst case you may end up having to break or cut away the skirts of the knob to get access to the faucet packing nut under the knob in order to get the stem out. If you can find replacement stems then that is optimal but there is also the possibility to cut the rest of the knob shaft off the stem using a Dremel tool with a cutoff grinder disk.


Since your. Cook top looks to only use 240v. You won't need the neutral I would cap it with a wire nut or cover it with tape, the green is the grounding wire it connects to the bare copper. Next the blacks go to black and red to red these 2 wires are each 120v to neutral/ ground but 240v black to red. Thanks I read it 2x then answered thinking of 2 blacks updated . but black to red swap would also work but won't look right.


Can a wood cabin be laid directly on a existing concrete foundation if a DPC is added?

A damp proof course (DPC) is required “Under Floor Space” where there is evidence that the “water table rises to within 6” of the building perimeter or if surface water does not readily drain away from the building”. (See ICC 1807)
Likewise, wood joists within 18” of the ground or beams and girders within 12” at the perimeter or under a building in a crawl space shall be “naturally durable or preservative treated wood”. (See ICC 2304.11.2.1) Btw, this will help anchor the building to the foundation in seismic and high wind areas.
Likewise, under floor space shall have ventilation through the exterior walls, except where it’s a basement or cellar. (See ICC  1203.3)
Likewise, under floor insulation is required of R-25. (See ICC Table N1104.1(1)) Vapor barriers are installed on the heated side where the building is heated predominantly throughout the year.
So, to answer your question, yes you can install your cabin as you describe with the above requirements, including crawl space vents.
Your situation is a little different because you really don’t have adequate space for crawl space vents. In this case, I’d recommend you eliminate the floor insulation and increase another element in the building envelope. (See ICC Section N1103 Alternative Systems, i.e.: thicker wall insulation, thicker ceiling insulation, better insulated windows, etc.)


Dual light switch changing to dual smart switch

If all you have in the switch box is the black , white and ground this is a switch leg and your new smart switch probably needs a neutral (white wire in the box not connected to the switch)

The wires connected to the switch now are a hot and a switched hot. Many smart switches need a neutral to provide power for the electronics of the switch.

If you have a neutral in the box tie the new switch white to the neutral it should be white or gray. The next steps depends on the color wires on the new switches. But if you only have the one cable in the box with 2-3 wires it cannot be done with your existing wiring without additional wiring.


what would cause the second chime of a doorbell to sound muted?

Turns out that there was an intereference hitting into it--the cord coming into the doorbell box "from the wall" was bent up and barely touching the chime bar.  So bent it down a little and working doorbell again.


How can I repair a hole in bathroom wall tile?

You've got three separate problems:

You have a hole in the tile
You have a hole in the sheetrock/backer board behind the tile
Water may have damaged sheetrock behind other tiles.

I'd start by removing the grout around the broken tile with a grout saw, and prying the tile off.

Next, I'd take a look at the rest of the wall behind the tile... if it is in good condition, I'd make a sheetrock patch using cement backer board.
Next I'd try to find a tile that looks close enough and replace the broken tile with it.
Alternatively, you could cut the broken tile square (so it looks like the US state of Utah), and find a complementary color and cut that to fit the missing piece.

Re-install the missing tiles and re-grout the area.

If the wall has a lot of moisture,  I'd stick a dehumidifier in there for a while and see if the wall can be saved. Otherwise this could get quite expensive quite quickly...