What type of electrical supply is this? (Canada)

This is, unfortunately typical, poor design of the instructions page. Hopefully the product is engineered better than the instructions.
I believe the instructions are supposed to show "2 CT Sensors" for the first 3 rows of the table. Instead, they only show that for the 3rd row and the table is structured so that it can be instead interpreted as "for the first 2 lines we have no idea how many CT sensors you will actually need, and for the 3rd line, 2 CT Sensors". Which of course makes no sense whatsoever. That is basically a "formatting problem" - a disconnect between the engineer's scrawl and the desktop publishing person's implementation.
Except that actually, as I think about it a little more, line 2 - 240V 3-wire is not correct. If it were a true "240V only" then it would be 2-wire and 240V. If it were 120V/240V then it would be 3-wire and 120V. Instead it is listed as 3-wire (implying a neutral wire, and therefore 2 wires with CT Sensors, each 120V) and 240V (implying no neutral wire, and therefore only need 1 wire with CT Sensor, 240V). It doesn't add up.
As noted by others, the first item really should be "120/240". If it was pure 120 (which is possible for very small service) then it would only be 2 wire rather than 3 wire and only 1 CT Sensor - so it does not match the first line, implying that first line, described as "TYPICAL", really should be "120/240".


I seem to remember using Windex.. Long soak, cover with plastic wrap for 30-60 min, scrape carefully with wide (6 to 8 inch) putty knife or drywall blade or wall paper knife.

I was able to save my first new vehicle sticker.


120V on a 240V, 30 amp circuit? Brain has zero volts

Ok this is probably a simple issue. You have a double pole circuit but the thermostat is only single pole and you read 120v  not 240 as you expected.
With baseboard heaters it is common to only break one leg.
With one leg open no current can flow so no heat.
The heater is required to be grounded so measuring the voltage with the heater turned on providing heat at either terminal to ground will show ~120vac.
With the heater heating the voltage from L1 to L2 (the heater connections) will show 240v.
Now here is what trips up non electricians. With the thermostat off each leg still reads 120v to ground the voltage coming through the heater has no voltage drop because there is no current with a normal high impedance meter.
So a 240v heater can be controlled with a 120v line voltage thermostat.
To know if your heater is 120v or 240 measure the voltage L1 to L2 at the heater when the thermostat is turned on (the 2 wires connecting the power to the element) if you read 120 it’s 120 if you read 240 it’s 240.
You have found out you have a 30 amp circuit, this is quite common and #10 wire is normally used. A single pole thermostat can control 120 or 240v if when the thermostat is off you have voltage (120v to ground) at the heater this is another indication it is 240v.


Putting a drain sump on the inside is like catching the blood from a cut on your arm into a cup. What you really need to be doing is taking a hard look at what caused the cut and remedy that problem instead. Just pasting on bandaids will not do the trick.

So getting back to the house situation. Look hard at what it takes to get water away from the outside of the basement wall. This can include any and all of:

Proper working rain gutters to divert roof runoff away from the building.
Soil surface preparation and grading to allow surface water to run away from the building as opposed to letting it soak into the ground by the basement walls.
Exterior french drains located in areas where the soil tends to stay persistently wet to help allow water to go into the ground deeper than your basement floor and foundation.
Foundation drain lines on the outside of the basement foundation that allow water from outside to collect and flow away from the building.
Exterior sealing of the basement walls so water does not infuse into the concrete or blocks in the first place.


What could cause excessive condensation drainage from my heat pump?

first, if you have an air conditioner in your attic, then there should be TWO drip pans, and TWO drain lines.

one of the drip pans should be built in to the air handler/coil unit
the second drip pan should be at least as big as the entire air handler and coil unit, and positioned under the air handler to provide coverage for the entire unit
both pans should have INDEPENDENT drain lines
ideally, the second drip pan should have a float sensor unit it to shut off the system BEFORE it overflows.

either drain should be able to completely empty whatever amount of water you have in the pan within seconds. if it can't, then you have a clog somewhere.

also, the large drip pan below the air handler should typically be completely dry. it's there as a backup in case the drain line for the air handler clogs up. if you have any amount of water in there, then you have a problem somewhere else.

so, than being said, do the following:

verify that both the air handler and the external drip pan have independent drains
get a wet/dry shop vac and suck out both drain lines
pour bleach down both drain lines

if you don't have a way to pour bleach down the drain connected to the air handler, make one. a simple way is to cut the existing line at a vertical run, splice in a T, then make an L shaped piece out of some tubing and an elbow. leave the top part unglued so you can remove it. see drawing.

test your newly cleaned drain lines. remember, both drain lines should be able to quickly remove any water you pour in them. if they drain slower than your bathroom sink, you have a clog somewhere.


Is it acceptable to run 10-3 wire to a 110V 20A junction box?

Totally legit.  You are allowed to oversize wire anytime you want.

Breaker amperage is determined by the smallest wire in your circuit.  So if all the other wire is 12 gauge, you may breaker for 20A.  If any of it is 14ga, you must breaker for 15A.

You are also limited by devices, but common "15A" outlets are allowed in 20A circuits.

You may get into physical fit issues trying to get 10 gauge wire onto terminals meant for 12 gauge.  At worst you can pigtail a few inches of smaller gauge wire onto the outlet, but the "smallest wire" rule applies here.  That should fit fine in a common 2-1/8 x 4" box if there isn't anything else in there.  But I recommend going for the deepest box you got, because those 10ga wires will be stiff and hard to stuff in the box.

Cap off the extra wire with a wire-nut, tape or both; no need to strip it but its copper core can't be permitted to hit anything metal.   You might also wrap the outlet along the edge with tape a few times, covering the exposed side terminals.


From you post it appears that the French doors are OK but the problem is with the sliding screen door.  I'd get a 6.5' 2x4  and my car jack and try to lift up at the middle of the frame to see if it's just separated from the header or if you have a structural problem. If it can be lifted into position, refasten it with some long wood screws through the frame and into the header. If it can't be lifted then you have a more serious problem and you'll have to remove some siding to investigate further and report back here.


Ideally, you would blow warm air out of your apartment.  Cool outside air will naturally take its place.  If you can take advantage of prevailing winds by having open windows on opposite sides of the apartment, do so.  Otherwise, use a box fan blowing out of the screen door (assuming it's not in a bedroom -- they can be pretty noisy) and smaller fans pulling air in through other windows.

You can also keep the apartment cooler during the day by closing blinds.  If you have a balcony that gets sun during the day, consider getting some large plants: they'll provide some shade, and they'll need watering, which will also help to bring temperatures down.


When I did my kitchen recently, I just laid the cement board wall-to-wall, because it wasn't worth it to cut the sheets where the base cabinets would go.  Plus you get a bit of waterproofing too.
Don't forget that you will want tile under the refrigerator, dishwasher, and free-standing range.


Since it's almost winter now, you may have the answer just by observation. It's likely that if the installer said the wood filler would shrink back into the holes in winter, it would. But it will be ugly again in summer. There's also a good chance that foot traffic will break off the bumps where the filler pops up, which will leave you with pits when it shrinks back.

Another possibility is that the installer just gave you that answer because it would mean he doesn't hear from you again until winter, or maybe not at all if you've gotten used to the defect by then.

My solution for filling holes (mostly places near edges where I had to face-nail but didn't have space to hide the nails under baseboard trim) is to countersink the nails, then fill the holes with a mix of sawdust from cutting the floorboard material (so the color matches) and urethane clear-coat (which is roughly the same stuff my floorboards were pre-finished with). If your floorboards are finished with something else, you'd want to use that for the sawdust blend trick instead. Note that some kinds of finish will darken a sawdust blend; it's a good idea to test the blend on a piece of scrap before putting it somewhere people can see it.


Can I connect these two different types of drain material together? If so, what sealant should I use?

Black plastic drain pipes are typically ABS. White, usually PVC. There is a special cement that can join the two which will be found in the area with regular PVC cement at the plumbing supply. Just check the label carefully.

Not silicone - no way, no how, don't go there.


In a multi-gang box, are neutral wires paired with specific hot wires?

This is a single circuit, and the neutral is common to all branches of this circuit. In this case, all neutral wires in this box must be connected together.

Similarly (and this is regardless of single or multiple circuits/breakers) all grounds must be connected to each other, as well as to the box itself.

In the case of your switches, they simply need a neutral to operate the electronics in the switch itself. All you need to do is wire the neutral to each switch. You'll probably have to add pigtails, and probably additional wire nuts (purely for convenience).

Just to illustrate, using your schematic, I added the neutral lines (my changes highlighted in yellow):

The number and placement of wire nuts is not important, other than you need to pay attention to the number and size of wires when choosing wire nuts (they have a rating that will say how many wires of a given gauge they support).


I recently dealt with a similar problem -- I installed a water accessory and was faced with a 3/8" compression male outlet and nothing needing to be connected to it. A cap was easy to find at the plumbing supply but it didn't seal well. Wrapping the male thread with teflon tape plus pipe dope slowed the leak to a very slow drip, but the fact is the threads on a compression joint just aren't intended to form a seal.
In this case I got away with sealing it by placing a thick o-ring in the bottom of the cap. It sealed the cap to the male fitting nicely.
I was concerned the o-ring might wrinkle or buckle in some way during assembly, allowing the leak to continue. Had that happened I also considered carefully placing a brass or acetyl/delrin ferrule (without any tubing) into the male fitting, then place the o-ring around that, and finally install the cap. Maybe the ferrule would seal between the fitting and the cap, but if it didn't, it could provide some structure to help keep the o-ring in place.


Electric heating elements like they use in the Idylist units do not need venting. Some units do work like a heat pump and may have some condensate that will need to be drained. The amount of condensate will depend on the humidity and the length of time the unit is running but for heat no vent is needed.


It looks like patches to the sheetrock or maybe wet spots and the rock is not in good shape. You should evaluate if the sheetrock is not solid it should be cut out and replaced.
I usually use green board for repairs in bathrooms.(Green board is water resistant sheetrock). I would scrape and see if the paint is well bonded if it is well bonded fill the low spots with topping mud then prime for best results.


"nuclear option" for mold growth on ceramics and other tiles?

Anytime I get any mold growing in a very humid area, like areas around a shower I spray the mold growth with a strong water/bleach mixture (about 4 to 1) water to bleach. let it sit and the mold goes away. If it is a heavy growth you may need to spray it twice. And yes, wear protective clothing and a respirator.


It is service call experiences like these that give HVAC guys a bad reputation.

Many residential systems take between 8-13 pounds of refrigerant total.  It is extremely doubtful that you lost 3 lbs of charge in 3 days, so either the first technician charged the system incorrectly (left it undercharged), or the second technicians charged it incorrectly (left it overcharged), or they both charged it incorrectly.  If they actually put a combined 5 lbs of refrigerant in the system, then odds are pretty good that your system is now overcharged.  If so, that will hurt system performance and, depending on the type of metering device your system has, being overcharged could severely shorten the life of the compressor.  Secondly, the mere existence of a leak is not a valid reason for installing a whole new system.  If the leak occurred because the evaporator coil is corroded to death, okay maybe, but if there is a simple pin hole or leaking fitting then, no, that is not a valid reason for a new system.  Personally, I would not invite these guys back.  Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

To answer your last question, I am not aware of any tester specifically for thermostats.  Usually some temperature observations and a few quick checks with a volt meter will tell a technician if the thermostat is the underlying cause of a problem or not, so no tester is really needed.  Also, with the introduction of advanced digital and wireless technology into the area of thermostats the variety of complex options has exploded.


Pa (Pascal) is a unit of pressure (air or hydraulic pressure).  It's a very tiny unit, usually used in the thousands or millions.

"inch" in this context is "inches of water", another unit of pressure.  This one's easy.

Get a glass of water and a clear straw.  Suck on the straw just enough that the water comes up 3".  Or blow hard enough it goes down 3".  You guessed it - that is 3" of pressure (or vacuum).  AKA 750 Pascals.  You can do the same by plumbing a clear plastic hose into your duct and dipping it in a glass of water.

Since that's a pretty small amount of pressure, so I can guess this relates to the strength of a blower in a furnace's air handling system.

Just so you know... you've met "inches of water"... there's another one, "inches of mercury" often used by meterologists.  Same concept, but mercury is 14 times heavier than water.  Also "feet of seawater" for divers, and lots lots more. Clearly, the standards committee was bored.


How to paint the wall with gradient patterns?

A quart typically covers ~ 100 sqft.  A pint or 8oz per color ought to do it.  Pints at a big box store are less than $5, and one store seems to have a 50% sale on these sizes.

To find works by other people, Google image search for: mountain wall mural layered. In comparing them, try to identify particular aspects of the ones you like that make them work so well.  Also, relative to those murals, take into account your flooring color, furniture colors etc.  This will aid in assessing whether to 'tint with white' or get the store to mix each tint.

Print out a color image of mural of your choice (maybe take the URLs to Kinkos or Staples or a photo store and ask them to print it to 'match'), take the print to the paint store, find color swatches that match.

Here is a blog post that describes the tinting:

http://www.trailtosummit.com/create-a-mountain-mural/

Here are very detailed step instructions, including wine and including a photo showing all their paint chips with codes:

http://kristinatravels.blogspot.com/2016/06/how-to-paint-mountain-mural.html

Your person wrote a blog post about her process:

http://pamlostracco.blogspot.com/2014/05/mountain-mural.html

Here are time lapse videos showing a different people doing similar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQGZi75w5LY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPE5G2SR0Zs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVQ8mPmSZS8


Need help replacing 2 switches, fan + light

The wire that "loops" between the two switches is the hot wire from the power source.  This is the same as having a single wire with 2 pig tails that connect to each switch.  Since you're replacing two single-pole single-throw (SPST) switches with two of the same types, all you need to do is replace them with the exact same wiring that currently exists.  There is no hot/neutral to these switches, so as long as you connect to the two screws on each switch, you will be OK.

For the ground, in the pictures you can see the bare ground wires (with some paint on them) with a wire nut at the very back of the electrical box. You can and add in two pig-tails in order to connect to your new switches ground terminals.   In your particular case, since you have a plastic electrical box, you should definitely connect this wire.  If your box was metal, then the switch would be grounded just by making contact with the electrical box (assuming the box were grounded).


The counterop weighs less than 300 lbs. The cabinets probably weigh less than 100 lbs.  This is about 400lbs spread over a floor area of almost fifteen square feet. this is less than 30 lbs per square foot.

An adult standing still is about 150 lbs on one square foot.

You should have no problem with the load regardless of the placement with regard to the joists.


Water penetrates the concrete and rusts the rebar which then expands and cracks the concrete.  It's an age-old problem and considering the age of this slab, its lifetime is over.

From the looks of the photos, it's severely compromised and should be removed immediately.


Call a local HVAC company, it sounds like a refrigerant leak.  Don't run the system until somebody has looked at it, as you could damage the compressor and/or other components.


What is this machine screw? 3.7mm OD, ~32 TPI

The closest thing I found to a match looking up various thread sizes with a 0.1875 inch British standard cycle, but even if that is what it is then I suspect you will find it extremely difficult to actually buy.


What DIY tests are available for the quality of stainless steel?

The gauge refers to the thickness of the steel, which is but one measurement of the quality of the stainless steel (the other main factor is the grade of stainless steel it's using) see: Steel Grades on Wikipedia.

As for measuring the gauge , you can get a Sheet Metal Gauge online, or from your local hardware store.


What is causing the minor leak in flex supply line under sink?

The joint that you are pointing to in your picture is a compression joint. Usually a little bit more tightening of the nut will stop it.  If you are absolutely sure you can't get another 1/8 or 1/4 turn on the nut, then simply shut off the valve and replace the hose.  The Teflon tape mentioned in the previous answer is necessary on new hose threads, but has nothing to do with a leak in the joint you are leaking from.


Is the outlet type indicative of problematic wiring

You, or your house inspector, would want to investigate if the "modern wiring" makes it all the way to the outlet boxes (in which case a simple replacement will get you grounded 3-prong outlets) or if it stops short and leaves you with old ungrounded wire to the actual outlets (in which case you'll want to lower your offer by several thousand dollars to pay for the rewiring.)

The triple outlets could just be a fashion choice, but you need to know to make a reasonable offer on the house.


Photovoltaic installation: does it make sense (or is possible at all) to get a bigger inverter than the power output of the installed panels?

Better idea: get panels with their own micro-inverters. Then you can add more panels at will in the future. Bonus: micro-inverters are more efficient than a central inverter and will last longer.


Hooking up generator to house propane supply

Looks like the two regulators have the same output setting, and the BBQ supply is fed from a regulator with a high Btu/hr capacity. There are two more things you'll have to work out:

Does that 800,000 Btu/hr accommodate all the propane appliances that might operate concurrently?
With the added load of the generator drawing gas through the supply intended for BBQ, is the size of the system piping adequate to handle the flows required?

The second question can be more difficult to answer -- you'll need to find out the length, size, and material of the pipe in the gas system and then do some math. A web search for "propane pipe sizing" will turn up results that explain the methods -- for example, El Dorado County in California provides this handout which explains the "longest length" method of pipe sizing.


American cockroach. Can it climb on the water pipes to the apartment(flat) at fourth floor?

In Short: Absolutely.

Cockroaches can get into a room even from holes between the very building materials that make up your domicile. They may not even be obviously visible. For instance, when doing demolition or renovations, it's not uncommon IME to see them in the interior of walls, cabinets, plumbing areas, etc.

They can flatten their bodies to extremes and will navigate towards whatever food source they can find. Even sometimes in new construction in wooded areas, if there is a target for them to seek, they will find it. From the naked eye, the house looks impenetrable. New windows, doors, seals, etc.

It's worth talking to your neighbors to see if they are also having a problem. No amount of closed doors and windows will keep them out, if they're already inside the structure.


I'm a HUGE fan of Wago's "Wall-Nuts" ...

They exceed all NEC pull-out tests and they're much more secure than the crappy wire nuts everyone has been using since plastic was invented. And they come in up to 8-port. There are 6-port versions as well just not pictured.


What size breaker and wire do I need for a 220 volt circuit to an electric fireplace and an electric heater?

10 gauge wire is the largest I like to use in home use. Depending on who you talk to and what code book you are looking at, the amount of current a 10 gauge wire can handle changes. I tend to think it can safely handle about a 30 amp breaker (and I think most code books fall in line with this).

You can add up the amps (12+15=27 amps) to get the total amps possible. This would mean that a 30 amp breaker with 10 gauge wire should work fine. However, check your currents to make sure that is the max that will be pulled. Many items have a large start up current that can cause a breaker to trip if you aren't careful.

For things that pull this much current by themselves, it is generally better to split them into 2 different breakers. So for you I would go with a 15 amp and a 20 amp. Technically you can use #14 on the 15 amp breaker, but if it were me I would go ahead and run #12 in case you some day want to swap out your fireplace with something that pulls more power.


Do light fixtures have to be CSA approved in NB Canada?

NEW BRUNSWICK REGULATION 84-165-3(1)No person shall install, attempt to dispose of, dispose of or use any electrical equipment, electrical fixtures, appliances and their components which are not certified by the Canadian Standards Association, the Underwriters’ Laboratories of Canada or any other recognized testing laboratory acceptable to the Chief Electrical Inspector.
Each testing lab has specific marks for Canada, if ULC or ETLC approved there is a small c located outside the circle around the 8:00 position.


How can I control 2 lights with 2 switches so that both lights can't be on at the same time?

with a normal and a 3-way switche you can do this so you have a on/off (SW2) switch and a selector (SW1) switch.


Industrial strength velcro peeling off MDF

Super glue might work, although my first thought was to finish the mdf with polyurethane first. This will seal the mdf and allow the adhesive to remain sticky for a long time.  Rubbing superglue on the area before the velcro goes on might get the same result too if you don't want to finish the whole thing.

I think this is what's going on : the mdf is very porous and absorbent. For example, it soaks up finish rapidly until it's saturated and only then can you build up finish thickness. I think the mdf is basically extracting the lower molecular weight components out of the velcro adhesive, which are the that make it tacky. With those gone, the adhesive is now more brittle and fails in short order.


I had this many years ago.

My Dad and I went round the house and unplugged / disconnected every single device - clocks, tv, washing machine etc etc etc really every single one in every room.

Switched the breaker back on and it was fine.

So, room by room went round and re-connected each device...
All was well until we re-connected the washing machine - it had developed a fault and as it was 25 years old it was replaced.

So, try a logical measured approach - the solution may be simpler than you expect - worth trying as it is cheaper than letting those electricians fit anything they can think of...


Why do microwaves run 3 extra seconds after timer ends?

I had a microwave oven that would keep the fan, light, and turntable going until the food was rotated to its original orientation.  That way it was easy to grab the handle of your tea cup :)

I've repaired microwave ovens in the past, and I don't think that a few extra seconds of airflow (after the cooking is completed) would help the longevity.  They are designed so that nothing gets hot except for the food.

Unless, of course, it is a dual microwave/convection model.  Then a cooling cycle would keep the hot elements from over-heating the convection pathways.

Update:

I've been doing some research and have found additional information.  The microwave ovens are not actually all that efficient from an electrical power standpoint.  For example, a representative oven I found online cooks at 900W but requires 1350W from the wall outlet.

This relates to your question because all that extra power is dissipated in the oven as non-functional (not-for-cooking) heat, and is removed with fans.  Most of the excess heat is generated in the magnetron, and a little is used for the controller, user interface, etc.

Removing some of this waste heat from the magnetron may very well improve the longevity of the oven.  The design engineers may have reduced the oven's passive venting by including extra active fan-based cooling.


Adding an Electrical Outlet when original is in conduit (what do I do with the ground?)

It's apparent the contractor is using the conduit system as a ground. You didn't mention what you are using for the extension but I am assuming it's some sort of approved cable. You can attach the ground to the box the existing receptacle is in. You will find a threaded 10/32 hole in the back of the box. You can purchase a ground screw at just about any hardware store.

I must caution you that if you are in a municipality that only allows conduit systems in houses you should install expansion's in like systems.

Hope this helps, good luck.


How to Pocket joist into double Wythe solid Brick wall?

The reason the Code does not approve pocket installation of joists and beams is because it is difficult, if not impossible, to install hangers properly in pockets.

Joists, and especially beams, need to be supported for vertical loading and lateral loading. In order to do that, the joists and beams need to be fastened (nailed or bolted) into a steel hanger and the hanger needs to be secured to the building. Setting the hanger in a pocket does not allow nailing or bolting. (Actually, there are special hangers that extend far enough to allow nailing or bolting, but anchoring the hanger into the wall would be difficult.)

I don’t like anchoring beams into existing 1940 brick walls, because I don’t know how much, if any, reinforcing is in the wall. Rather, I like adding a post to support the beam and then bolting the post to the wall. (Posts under each joist isn’t reasonable, so I’d use a ledge to support the joists, but each joist needs a steel connector to fasten it to the ledger.)

Fire cut joists were used so that the joists would fall out of the pocket in the wall if there is a fire. Now, we reinforce the wall so it doesn’t fall if the joist is burned through.

There are common hangers that you can use between the joists and the beam by the stair. I’d ask your engineer to clarify the size and type he’d recommend.

Fastening the ledger to the brick wall will require “through bolts” through the brick wall. Again, I’d go back to the engineer and ask him to design the size and spacing of the bolts required. He will need to design the size of washer to use too so the bolts won’t pull back through the brick wall. Then, use similar joist hangers that you’re using on the other end to fasten the joists to the ledger.

You asked, how I would have designed the project? I don’t like “Point” connections. That is to say, I don’t like connectors connected into the existing brick wall because I can’t calculate the strength of the wall because the reinforcing is unknown. Rather, I’d build a wood frame wall with all the connections fastened to it in the work area. I’d cover the walls with plywood and then connect the wall to the exterior walls at many locations. The new walls would help hold the existing walls together and make the entire structure stronger.


Can I replace 1 volt lights with 2 volt lights?

Short answer: No

There may be a way to redesign the circuitry but you are better off, in almost every case, to find replacement lights equivelant to what you are replacing.


which electric device can scan all waves exist at home.

None.

Devices specialise. You won't find one that scans seismic waves at the same time as ultraviolet electromagnetic waves, radar electromagnetic waves and ultrasonic waves.


The vents on a steam system, by releasing the air, allow the steam to rise. Often, the risers far away from the boiler will have their own vent to get the heat there quicker. If you capped it it would probably take longer for that part of the house to get warm. From an efficiency point of view you want that air purged ASAP.

You can balance a system with adjustable vents.


Towel hook in bathroom ceramic tile grout

Fixing this could take several directions.

If you have access to the other side of the wall from where the hook was mounted it may be feasible to open up the drywall from that side and install some wooden backer between the studs that can accept slightly longer screws from the tile side. Fixing up and re-finishing an access hole in drywall would be be far easier that trying to re-work the tile wall.

The size of the face plate of the hook looks like it would cover up a bit larger hole made between the tiles. Such hole may actually need to chip away at the edges of the tile some too. With a larger hole you can push through a fastener called a toggle bolt which would anchor to the opposite side of the wall material in the mount area. If you choose to use a toggle bolt approach consider applying a ring of silicon sealer between the bracket and the tile on the back side of the bracket. When this sets up it will take up the sheer load on the hook. Toggle bolts work best for pulling the load directly up to the wall and the hook could slide around on the wall due to the larger hole size and force that was parallel to the wall surface. The silicon can help prevent that problem.

Use care in how you go about enlarging the hole as you could end up cracking the tile if you try to force a regular style drill bit into the grout line. A small diameter tile hole drill would be recommended.

For this application I would discourage the use of other types of expanding wall anchors such as the cheap plastic things you press into a hole before applying the screws. They will eventually fail in much the same way as your current fail.


Proper Way to Splice Into Existing Electrical Line

In addition the connection with the short "jumper" cable needs to have two junction boxes. This may seem less than elegant but it is a normal thing.

If the cable to be cut is a long one it may be possible to make the cut in such a way that a part of the existing run can be re-routed to the first added lighting fixture box. Then the wires can be spliced there and the "jumper" can be routed over to near the cut location and spliced into existing wiring at the added junction box.


How do I know if my windows are energy efficient?

Hire someone that can do an energy audit. Check with your local utilities as they may even offer rebates on the cost of that. They'll use a Thermal Imaging Camera that can answer this question for you.

It's not so much whether or not your windows are a problem as much as it is the bigger question "what parts of your house are the problem". Even if your windows aren't efficient, you may have bigger issues elsewhere that will give you a bigger ROI in terms of energy costs than replacing the windows.


How can I protect my hands when using power tools?

The wearing of gloves can be a terrible idea when using many power tools. In fact, it can be quite dangerous for the reasons you describe, although kevlar gloves might be a good idea when you are around a chainsaw. They might even be a good idea if you are working with sharp chisels. Even so, I would suggest that it makes far more sense to begin using good, safe practices.

If your fingers are getting too close to a moving powered object, then you are doing it WRONG! If you are taking risks with your fingers, then learn safe working practices!

NEVER WEAR LOOSE FITTING CLOTHING OF ANY SORT WHEN WORKING WITH POWER TOOLS. Gloves are part of this.

Never get close enough to a blade for there to be a problem. Use a push stick or block on table saws. Use hold downs of all sorts. Use a table saw with a saw stop.

If you are using a drill, why are your fingers touching the drill bit?

If you can't control your fingers and other body parts, then perhaps chess is a better activity for you? There are always people willing to be paid to do your home repair projects for you. Or, learn to do those projects safely.

When I go into my wood shop, I wear a short sleeve shirt. No gloves. I am aware of the tools that I use. I use proper push blocks and hold downs where appropriate. And when my fingers get near a moving object, I ALWAYS know exactly where they are and I am in complete control of the situation, or I find a different way to do the job.

Finally, if you are tired, then stop working. There is always another day to finish the job, but you have only one life, only so many fingers, eyes, etc.


What's the best way to shore up a ceiling register that is loose?

Drill a hole on either side of the register.  Mark the holes on the ceiling with a pencil, drill and install a drywall anchor in each location.  Secure the register with screws into the anchor.

Some people paint the ceiling and the register so it blends in better (and covers the screw heads).


Disclaimer: my answer is based of off the Ontario Electrical Safety Code (26th Edition/ 2015) Current Edition. I would advise calling a licensed electrical contractor in your area and have them see if this complies with your local rules and regulations.

It does appear to be a very crude and illegal generator transfer switch. I would look on the outside of your house or the shed (if applicable) for a empty area with a dead end box (if it was hardwired) or a generator inlet box (if it was a plugin style) this will be where the generator was previously.

I would also suggest that you take a good look at anything else that looks like it was added by the previous owner as this is not the proper method of isolation for a transfer switch and was likely done without a permit which means the it and other homeowners additions may not be safe. Call a electrical contractor and ask them to inspect this and see if it is safe.


Are there safety concerns or code violations with my garage sub-panel?

It is bad, more than a few violations here if I understand what is being fed.
First violation no clamps /bushings coming into the panel 2 places.
Next a 40 amp breaker feeding #12 possibly 14 awg wire 4 places
4 ground wires under 1 lug (I believe square D limits grounds to 2 wires)
The neutral and ground issue would have been legal prior to 1999
If the garage is detached a separate additional grounding conductor would be required.
I would highly recommend this getting fixed sooner than later and the ground neutral issue is the least of the issues because if the other things were not a problem and built pre99 it would be ok.
Note if you can turn off a breaker inside the house
It would be an easy fix with a 60a sub panel with a minimum of 4 circuits (go bigger) 60 amp panel 4 circuits 36$  or jump up to a 125 amp panel 12 circuits for 40$  (4 $ more double the capability and triple the circuits)
You use the existing 40 amp breaker in the house.
Purchase the new sub
Purchase 1 240v breaker 20 amp? Guessing on the wire size
Purchase 2 120v breakers 15 or 20 amp 12 awg wire 20 amp , 14 awg wire 15 amp the wire size is stamped on the cable sheath.
4 clamps
The clamps go in the knockouts the 3 circuits out each go through a clamp 1/2”
The input through a larger clamp 3/4”
Terminate the 2 hots neutral and grounds and do not install the bond screw or remove it so the ground and neutrals will be isolated.
Connect the existing 240v circuit black white on the double pole breaker and ground.
Connect each of the 120v blacks to there breaker
Then the grounds on the ground buss neutrals on the isolated neutral buss
If it is a detached garage a separate ground rod needs to be added use a 8’ rod or pair of rods at least 6’ apart connected with #6 copper wire.
That’s it turn things on and know you eliminated a major fire and safety hazard and have a little room to grow before a larger feeder would be needed.
This can be done with the existing wires a larger box should make it easy but a wire or 2 may be short. Make sure the feeder fits first. Then add small wires and splice in the panel as needed it’s code compliant.


How do I test a 5V doorbell transformer?

The easiest way to test the output of a transformer is with a multimeter which can measure both volts and ohms.

If the transformer is wired into the 120VAC, and the power is on, remove any wires on the 5V side and place the multimeter probes/clips on the two connection screws on that side. You need to read the transformer output rating to see if this is AC or DC output. Set the multimeter to the correct volt range for AC or DC (5V should fall within the range) and see what the reading is.

If the reading is in the general area of 5V (say between 4 and 6), you are probably OK. If not, the transformer may be bad.

Just knowing the ohms on the 5V side won't help because it is the ratio of turns between both sides of the transformer that counts and the wire size determines both the resistance and current output and is irrelevant in determining the output voltage.


How to troubleshoot HVAC for room that is uncomfortably warm in both hot *and* cold weather?

With the info you have provided we really can’t help you, there are mini splits out there you can install for ~1500$  I would want see how your system is set up because your hvac guy sounds like he knows less than my neighbor and I helped him put in a mini split. Unless you can provide some specifics I vote to close.


Which concrete mix is better for these particular countertop dimensions?

Just being pedantic: PVA is glue; polypropylene is the term you're looking for.

Cheng, in "Concrete Countertops" isbn 1-56158-484-3 states (p. 98) that Quikcrete 5000 is fine if you add fibers, water reducer, and pigments. If you don't already have the book, get it.

As a general tip regarding concrete (or any mix-ables, for that matter), buy more than you think you'll need and be prepared to return excess. There's nothing worse than being in the middle of a job and realizing that you're short.


Replacing the wiring to a socket in a home?

To confirm the wire is broken/damaged, you can measure the electrical resistance of the cable with a multi-meter.  If the wire is OK, you should get a near-zero measurement.  If it is broken or significantly damaged, the resistance will be a high value or infinity.

You need to isolate the section of cable you think is damaged to in between two electrical boxes.  With the power off, at one end of the cable, connect the hot and neutral with a wirenut.  Measure the resistance between the two at the other end. Repeat this with all combinations of hot/neutral, hot/ground, neutral/ground in order to figure out which wire is broken.

As far as replacing the cable, you will likely need to cut one or more holes in your wall in order to pull a new cable through.  If it's a relatively straight and short run you might get away just removing the electrical boxes and fishing a new cable through, and then replacing the electrical boxes, but usually you have to cut multiple holes to run a new cable.


Should I spray texture on my drywall repair?

If the current walls are textured with an orange peel texture, then, yes, go ahead and use the 'texture in a can' to replicate.

Every wall in our house is orange peel (blech) so when I created an interior bump out with new sheetrock, I caved in and sprayed to match. I was pleasantly surprised to find the texture-in-a-can is rather easy to apply and seems to do the job just fine.


Is it okay to use construction adhesive to install an interior door on concrete wall?

The short answer is that yes, construction adhesive alone could do the job, but it's unlikely to save you time or effort. Some caveats...

The opening would need to be just the right size and shape, or you'd need to come up with fillers. That means more joints to be glued and more points of failure. The effort involved would probably add up to more than just using shims and concrete screws.
Your walls aren't just concrete. They're also paint. Unless you scrape down to bare concrete you're relying on the bond of that paint to withstand the jarring forces of slamming doors.
Speaking of slamming... if your door is heavy or gets abused, the adhesive could fail over time.
Construction adhesive is very messy, and it doesn't come off. It's solvent-based and will be permanent on any rough or porous surface it touches. You'd need to mask the surrounding walls and floor to protect them.
You'll need to brace the whole works while the adhesive sets (around a day), and in the perfect position for margins between the jamb and the slab. Errors at this stage aren't easily fixed.


is there an oil-based sealant to discourage carpenter bees from eating cedar siding and trim

They're are insecticides that will keep these flying drill bits from nesting in your eaves. The ones I know of need to be applied by a pro but seem to be good for multiple years.


Are curtains effective for keeping the room warm?

Curtains or drapes can help insulate a room. One of the main methods is to reduce the amount of air exchange between a cold window and the rest of the room.

Air in a room is always trying to equalize itself. The cold air at a window mixes with the warm air in the rest of the room.  If you trap the cold air behind a poor conductor (such as an airtight drape) the rest of the room air remains warmer.

Most cloth is a poor conductor (not good at transferring heat). This is a good thing.  The effectiveness is largely based on how airtight the cloth is and how tightly it fits to the window on all sides - the top and floor as well as the lateral sides.

Many curtains are advertised as thermal.  In general, they are fairly thick and have an air barrier to block flow through them. Fitting is as important as the material. In addition to going floor to ceiling, try to tightly fit the curtain to the walls on either side.


How can I remove a stuck coax cable from a conduit?

Unless it is extremely thick co-ax, like RG-35, there should be plenty of room to slide the nylon fish tape from outside along the stuck co-ax.  Probably the wire you wrapped around it for attaching to the fish has formed a barb—how apropos for a fish!  :-)

Push the fish past the end of the co-ax a little bit (or as far in as it will go), and then alternately pull the fish back and then jab it forward in a series of vigorous thrusts intended to make it slide past the end in a random new location each thrust and, if it hits the target, bend the barb out of the way.

If that doesn't do it, get some silicone lubricant or any other non-drying lubricant, blob it liberally on the end of the fish and push it in to the end of the co-ax in an effort to lubricate the area, twist it around a bit, and then withdraw the fish and repeat 6+ times to be sure there is lots of lube in the conduit.  Remove the fish when done.

If the conduit where the obstruction exists is surrounded by concrete, I would try giving the co-ax a sharp, swift, hard pull to see if it can be budged into the lube.  If it is not so well supported, then pull gently at first and gradually build up force allowing the co-ax to stretch:  if it can be made a little thinner, it might let go.

Give that a go.  I have some more half-baked ideas if that doesn't work.


What type of tape do I use on a dryer vent?

First, what you do not want to use is duct tape, the adhesive fails under the extreme temperatures.

For dryer vents and HVAC ducts, you should seal seams with a foil backed tape. This is designed to be airtight and handle the temperature swings that would cause other types of tape to fail.

Note: sample product image, no affiliation or recommendation for this specific brand.


Advice on supporting a sagging bay window

I cringe when I see this type of construction. How good are you at mixing concrete? I'd be digging out that area under the bay window, compacting it, adding a few reinforcing rods into the  existing foundation, a little framing and pour a 6" slab/footer. Then use your jacks to slowly raise or even over raise the window, cinderblock and morter it in and cover with a coat of stucco. Don't forget to extend the vent with a prefab from your home store.


Replacing drywall on ceiling after a small flood

I usually remove sheets that have buckled and any wet insulation then put fans up to dry things out. Once dry I cut out past the worst damage to fit full sheets or 1/2 sheets. So no you don’t have to or even need to replace it all in some cases a 1/2 sheet will be enough others 2-3 sheets but it is rare even with a big flood the entire ceiling needs to be replaced normally 1 joist bay and bad floods the bay on either side, once the first bay comes down usually the water dose drain go further in the ceiling.
You do need to make sure to run fans to dry it out but if it has not sagged and you get it dry just patch the bad areas. Tape and texture then repaint.
I have purchased a home for my family that had this exact issue unoccupied I put fans in the room and a dehumidifier once things were dry I put the Sheetrock back up and we had no problems with mold I owned the house for about a decade after that.


What are the main causes of loose connections in lighting circuits?

Your question is not unsuitable but it is a little puzzling. The main reason for loose connections is improper installation. Connections, splices and taps should be mechanically and electrically sound (that's right out of the training manuals). The fact that something can be used before failure, does not mean it was originally installed properly. It just took time for the fault to become evident.

I think what you should be looking for is evidence of improper or loose connections. That would be discoloring, burnt insulation or smell, and loose terminals. Of course electrical evidence would be flickering, equipment seeming to struggle to come on, an overheating smell or hot to the touch. An infrared thermometer is very useful in in detection hotter than normal surface areas.

Hope this helps to educate and good luck.


Solar 240 VAC source and load wires sharing a conduit

Normally you're not allowed to mix service wiring and branch circuit wiring, but solar is special.

Derating

It's almost never a problem with 2-3 circuits, but when you put 2+ circuits in conduit, you must pause to do a "derate" calculation.  Other rules prevent you from using wires at their thermal maxima, but you derate off of that.  For THWN-2 wire, that is the 90C column of table 310.15(B)(16).  So for instance if you're running 8 AWG Cu wire, your 90C number is 55 amps.

Your derate comes out of table 310.15(B)(3)(a).  In all split-phase 120/240V circuits, there are only 2 wires that count, so you are always 2 wires per circuit.  So 2 circuits is 4 wires, which calls for an 80% derate.  80% of 55 amps is 44 amps.

You then round up to the next size of breaker.  They don't make 45A breakers, so you go to a 50A breaker.  Lucky you!

This does not liberalize any other rules.  If this was #8 Cu NM cable, that's only allowed to run at 60C, so it is limited to 40A regardless.

Up to 4 circuits per conduit (70% derate) is fine for 15-30A circuits. However for 50A and above circuits, it starts to pinch. #8 THWN-2 can only carry 40A.  If you ever see installations with many conduits next to each other, that's why. They are keeping it to 3-4 circuits per conduit.

Can you use the 90C column if your termination is only 75C? Depends if the termination is inside the conduit! (unlikely to be legal to splice in a conduit, but perhaps in a raceway, gutter etc.? Anyway if it was a 60C splice, yes, #8Cu would derate off 40A at that point.) If the splice is outside the conduit, then conduit/raceway derate rules are inapplicable and you apply whatever rules exist for the space the splice is actually in.

Branching

Anywhere wires split, there must be an accessible point, such as a "T" conduit body or a junction box.  (Places where splices happen have much larger cubic-inch requirements; junction boxes are sized to allow splices, conduit bodies are not).

Every accessible point most remain accessible in perpetuity. For instance if you get a mind to deck over your attic to use it for storage space, you better install a junction box so it'll be flush with the ultimate floor, not bury a conduit body under flooring.

Also you can't have more than 360 degrees of cumulative bend between accessible points; for a novice DIY puller, even 180 is ambitious.  I prefer 90-135 at most.


House Has Different Types of Siding - How to look seamless?

It's mostly aesthetics, so opinions may vary.

I don't what your budget is, but I see many ways it could be improved:

The white siding part could be changed to match the beige siding to the right, or if the foundation allows it, replace the white siding with the same brick as the rest.
The white door could be painted (or changed altogether) to match the main door.
If the door in the white siding section is not used (there is no porch, so I guess it isn't), maybe you could remove it and center the window (or change it for a larger window).
If the door cannot be removed, can it be centered in the siding section? it would help to make it look seamless (and add a proper porch).


Load considerations on framing members that are only attached to concrete?

How much load can 2x3's or 2x4's attached to concrete block support?

Typically a 2x on end can handle about 1250 PSI for doug fir.  This is about 6,000+ lb for a 2x4, 4,500+ lb for a 2x3.  Crushing wise, it depends on how often it is braced.  You anchor a 2x4 into a concrete wall  every 6" for 5' and I am sure it will actaully hold those loads.

  Is this different than simply summing up the fastener tolerances and accounting for safety margin, i.e. 1590lbs / 4 (safety) = 397lbs per stud?

Yes.  The 2x's can hold one load, the fasteners can hold another.  Typically you specify fasteners based on the actual loads to be held, not on the possible loads each stud can hold.

  Does the choice of stud (2x3 vs 2x4) AND the choice of orientation (long side vs short side facing out) matter in terms of supporting this load? If so, how?

Yes and No.  The failure mode for a 2x is usually buckling.  So putting it flat against the wall would make it stronger laterally by bracing it in the weak direction allowing more load before buckling.  But if you brace the 2x laterally via wood and face them out, this is a moot point.

But if you framing walls inside of a fully supported basement, why does any of this matter?  The walls are not supporting any other laod than the wall finish.  Just shoot concrete nails into P.T. members placed vertical on the wall to fur it in and cover a suitable finish.  Maybe I am missing something.


The fridge motor is probably smaller than you think, the vacuum motor is a universal (AC/DC) motor so it inherently soft starts. The pump motor is likely a standard AC single phase motor and has too much inrush current for your inverter. When they say 1500W at start and 750W running, that's "marketing" speak because they don't want to scare people off. Starting an AC motor results in the inrush current being 500-600% of FLC for a second or two. But the power factor is very very low (i.e. .2 or less), so if you express it in "watts" the number looks better because W = A x V x PF. So 750W is about 1HP and at 115V single phase, that's about 16A FLC. That means at startup it can surge to 96A, but if the PF is 0.13, the W will be 1500 which LOOKS better than saying the starting current is 96A. For a utility connection it's irrelevant but for something powered by an inverter, it's too much and the inverter has a crowbar circuit that shuts it down to avoid damaging the transistors. Your best option (besides the generator one) quite honestly is going to be to get a different pump, either one powered by a DC motor that you run directly off of the battery (look for "solar pumps") or one that uses it's own inverter because that will come with soft starting. Or get a MUCH bigger inverter.


How do you deal with the giant foundation overhang when using ridged foam and a rain screen on an exterior wall?

I think the overhang is actually the better idea.

Imagine you are a water droplet running down the wall. With an overhang, you are more likely to fall harmlessly to the ground to be drained away. If you design the wall so that the slab and wall are even, that water is much more likely to wick under the wall and begin the long term destruction of the bottom of the wall.

The deeper the eaves on the roof and the wall overhang on the slab, the less likely you will be to have wall leaks and water damage.

If you want to seal the bottom of the wall you could install Z shaped flashing over the foam and under the siding.

Good luck!


The size and configuration of the entire piping system that supplies your irrigation setup, from point of entry to your property (usually the water meter) all the way to each sprinkler head, along with pressure, determines how much water is available. Pressure is just one piece of the puzzle.
If there is a regulator on your system it would typically be found on the main water supply pipe, between the main municipal supply/meter and your home (upstream of everything, basically). You should understand that regulators are installed for a reason; removing, bypassing, or adjusting it could cause complications up to and including failure of system components (i.e. flood). Normally, if high delivery pressure necessitates installation of a regulator, then all your neighbors would have one as well. It would be prudent to do some asking around. Regulators usually look something like this:

In the end, the cause of your problem is usually due to undersized piping. the fact that your neighbor used a different irrigation installer and seems to have no issues points to that as well. You would be surprised at how much more water flows through a 1" pipe compared to a 3/4" pipe:

By taking pressure measurements (both static and with water flowing) and noting pipe sizes and configuration, an educated layperson (and certainly a landscaping professional) could diagnose the issue fairly quickly.


What type of material should be used for sole plates on screened in porch?

Could be composite material.  Pressure treated 2x4 would work.  An adhesive with the appropriate fasteners will anchor it well.

Don't know of other kits besides screentight.  I would check your local home stores and online.  You can roll your own but the end result may not be as taut as you'd like.

Good luck.


What's the proper way to replace a wall switch with two black wires?

The current switch is set up as having a hot wire in (from the breaker box to the switch) and a hot wire out (from the switch to the light). The neutral / White wires should be pig tailed together in the box. There is also a green screw on the side, and this is for the ground.

Make sure to shut off the power before doing this (turn the breaker for the circuit off). Connect the top screw to the wire that feeds to the light. Connect the bottom screw to the hot wire. When you turn the power back on, and if you want to swap the direction of the switch (as in press down to turn off, or turn on), turn off the power and switch the two black wires.


Connecting a water heater, what kind of fittings, valves, and adapters?

Assuming that your HWT connections are 3/4 MIP and starting from the tank working back the the pipe at the wall:

Cold Side

3/4 FIP x 3/4 MIP Flex Hose

3/4 Threaded Ball Valve

7/8 x 3/4 Brass Compression x MPT Adapter

Hot Side

3/4 FIP x 3/4 FIP Flex Hose

7/8 x 3/4 Brass Compression x MPT Adapter

(No need for valve as the valve on the cold will isolate the hot)

No need to use these particular brands, they are just the first ones I found. All items should be available on Amazon or a local hardware store.


Using regular water heater for hydronic radiators

It's actually not uncommon to use a water heater for heating a well-insulated building (though an electric water heater is very UN-common, due to operating cost.) But....

This is not commonly done with radiators, which are typically designed to operate on 180F water. It is much more common with radiant floor heating, which can function quite well down at 100F water temperature in many cases.

The building must be well-insulated - the typical reason for using a hot water heater is the inability to get a "boiler" that's SMALL enough for the load of a well-insulated building. As designed, my shop will take about 30K BTUs/Hr to heat to 68F on a -20F "design day." (the minimum temperature used for the sizing the heating system.) A 100K BTU/Hr boiler would be massively oversized.

You need an expansion tank for a closed system, and you may need to use stainless steel pumps (rather than cast iron) if any part of the system allows oxygen to get in (non-oxygen barrier tubing, or an open system where the SAME water heater heats the floor AND the domestic hot water - in which case the floor tubing needs to be potable-water rated - not actually difficult to find in PEX tubing.)

Finally, if there is gas in your area now, it's stunningly unlikely to "become unavailable" in a future where you still have electricity. And if you are "heating with electricity" you really should be using a heat pump (in cold climates, a cold-climate air-to-air heat pump or a water-source/geothermal heat pump) since you get about 3 times the heat (depending on conditions and specific unit) for a given amount of electricity purchased. Heat pump water-heaters won't work without some other source of heat, as they are designed to operate from air that's 50F or more, typically.


Making a wild assumption since we don't have enough information: I'm guessing that what you have is a grade-3 Schlage cylindrical privacy set of the sort that's available from every hardware store in the country. There are three pieces to this unit -- an outer knob with a hole in it, an inner knob with the thumbturn, and the latch mechanism.

The installation guides on the Schlage website are for one-side-keyed knobs, but the principle is the same -- in fact, the mechanism is close to being the same.

If you look at step 6 in that guide (sorry, I don't have that one image by itself), you will notice that on the inner knob with the turnpiece, they tell you to look into the knob and make sure the slot is horizontal. If you look closely, you'll also see that the flat piece which runs from knob to knob is horizontal.

That's what you got wrong. It is possible to assemble the lock with these pieces rotated 90 degrees -- but only if you rotate them in opposite directions, with the result that they're both at their limit and each keeps the other from operating. This also has the side effect of tying up the knobs in the locked position.

(This is a general hazard when assembling mechanisms that are only designed to operate through part of their rotation rather than being able to spin endlessly. The position of the parts in this cycle is known as their "timing". You got the timing wrong.)

Remove the knobs, and reinstall them with the flat bar horizontal and the thumbpiece turned to match it. That should cure the problem, unless you've managed to do something more weird than usual.


What distance should I see between studs in a wood frame home built in 1943?

16 inches on center.

Note that lathe and plaster has a number of advantages over more modern drywall, but studfinding is not among those.  A standard stud finder you might buy or rent is likely to give confusing results.  However a super powerful magnet, or a magnet based stud finder, will work just dandy.  A row of small nails runs up and down each stud holding the lathe strips.

Removing the baseboards probably won't help at all.  Often, but not always, one edge of an electrical outlet aligns with a stud.  Framing can get funny near doorways or windows... the magnet is your friend.


How can I handle expansion drainage from water heater?

This sounds like an ideal situation for a condensate pump. Those are miniature sump pumps with a built-in reservoir. You drain your seepage into this, and the pump pumps it up and away when the reservoir reaches a certain level. Just make sure you get one with the capacity to pump as high as you need to to reach the outside, a drain, or whereever you want to dispose of the water.
These also usually have a 12V NO and NC switch that you could use to wire in an alarm if you wanted to.


The Red/Yellow wire is a comms wire in this case
I would not expect the Red/Yellow wire to be a 120VAC always hot here; instead, it's some sort of Leviton-specific control signal between the master and the remotes.  (It may be pulled to a DC voltage of some sort, but does not supply any significant amount of power on its own, as the matching DD0SR-DL remote requires an always-hot in order to power its internal circuitry and LED indicators.)
No, the wifi being down won't break your smart switch
As a result of this approach, the remote switches in your multi-way switch complex will still operate when the master switch is not connected to a wireless network.
Theory of operation
The remote sends signals to the master over the red/yellow wire that tell the master "I got pushed" (or what button was pushed on the remote for more complicated remotes), and these are interpreted by the internal processor in the master switch to determine what happened at the remote switch location.  Once master switch's processor knows what input the remote switch received, it can then adjust the light accordingly using its own control means, whether it be a relay for a switch or a solid-state TRIAC for a dimmer.  The processor may also send signals back to the remote to set indication LEDs on the remote on or off; of course, this functionality depends on which remote you are using.


How can I attach lumber for a shelf so that screws are not seen?

Option 1: Don't use screws. Old-school cabinet makers used dowels and glue. It's not difficult, but you'll want to read up on alignment techniques. Joints are very strong.

image source

Option 2: Use pocket screws. They're what modern cabinet makers use. They're probably cost- and effort-prohibitive in your case, though, since they require special tools (or advanced technique) and your work space is very tight.

image source

Option 3: Use long screws from the bottom. If your dimensions are correct, and your top panel really is 2 inches thick, you have enough material to counterbore from below and run the screws in that way.

image source


Neutral wires or neutral and ground cause small “sparks”

You keep saying "neutral and ground".  A common mistake is to believe they are the same thing -- after all, they're tied together back in the main panel, that's the same as tying them everywhere, right?  Nope.

Neutral is a working conductor: it is a normal current return path.  It "works for a living".  It's subject to voltage drop, for instance.  It must be tightly paired with the "hot" conductors so the wires' magnetic fields cancel each other out.

Equipment Ground is an emergency safety shield. Normal current must never flow over it!  Any current on ground is fault current and we certainly hope that is caught soon.

The purpose of the tie back at the main panel is equipotential bonding. The bond could be a car battery (intentional 12VDC bias between N and G); or a 2V transformer (2VAC offset between N and G) -- who cares -- the point is to bond neutral to be near earth, and thus keep hots within around 120/230V of earth - otherwise they could float/rattle at high voltages and be much more lethal.

So why the sparks?

Between the two neutrals, it's because there are downline loads being served by that neutral. When you sever a neutral, you cut off current flow, and the downline load "lifts" the neutral wire to 120V.  Now you have 120V across those two neutrals.  When you touch them together again, you complete the circuit and the downline load comes back on again.  The spark is small because it's current-limited by what the downline load will draw.

Between neutral and ground, it's because you have paralleled neutral and ground.  when you parallel 2 wires (don't), current flows in proportion to their conductivity.  The conductivity of neutral and ground are pretty close, so when you do that (don't), about half the current flows via ground instead of neutral. Again the downline load limits current, so the spark stays small.

Why is neutral and ground not precisely the same voltage?  Because neutral is workin' for a living, and ground is not. You're seeing voltage drop on the neutral, which since a neutral starts at 0V, tends to lift the neutral's voltage up a volt or two.   It's the same effect as a beam-style torque wrench: the heavy beam bends with the many foot-pounds of torque, but the indicator beam is under no strain, so remains straight.  The difference indicates torque.

If you knew the exact resistance of the neutral wire, you could compute current using that observed ground-neutral voltage difference "E", and known neutral resistance "R", plug them into E=IR and out pops I, your amps.

Oh yeah... your bulbs

Your problem is completely unrelated to this garden walk through the world of neutrals and bonding.  The readings you're asking about were a red herring, sorry.  Since you have a DVM, measure voltages on circuits in your house which work - as many as possible - and look for anything weird, especially some below 120V with others equally above 120V.


Is there a setup where I can leave the water on all summer?

There's really not much that can fail in a setup like that if you use quality components. A hose bib on a post or standpipe used to be a common sight in gardens before underground irrigation became so common.

Even with old rubber hoses disaster rarely struck. Modern reinforced hoses make failure a very remote possibility that shouldn't dissuade you from following your plan.

Run a good hose from the faucet and install whatever valve or hose bib that suits the good lady's needs.


Wiring

This is what your wiring diagram should look like.

Notice the black wire is used to feed the switch, while the white wire is markered and used to feed the light from the switch.  This is because the black wire going to the switch will always be hot, but the white wire "returning" from the switch is only hot when the switch is in the ON position. The white "switched" wire can be marked simply by wrapping a bit of black electrical tape at each end of the wire.

All the grounding conductors are tied together, and connected to the box (if a metal box is used).

Box Fill Calculations

According to section 314.16 of the National Electrical Code (NEC), you'll have to count each conductor that enters the box once, all the grounds as one, any luminaire studs, hickeys, or fixture straps as one, each single yoke device is 2, and internal clamps are 1. Once you have this number, you'll multiply it by the value in Table 314.16(B) according to the largest conductor used. This will give you the total minimum box size, in cubic inches (cubic centimeters).

Ceiling Fixture Boxes

For each ceiling fixture box (excluding the last), the box fill will be as follows:

3 12/2 cables connected to box = 6 (13.5cu.in.).
All grounding conductors = 1 (2.25cu.in).
A luminaire stud, hickey or strap (to support the light) = 1 (2.25cu.in.).
Fixture wires less than 14 AWG = 0 (see 314.16(B)(1)ex 1.).
Total Box Fill = 8 (18cu.in.).

Assuming you'll be using 12 AWG wires, Table 314.16(A) tells us you'll need a 4" x 2 1/8" round/octagonal box for the first 3 boxes (or a box at least 18 cubic inches).

The last fixture box fill will be as follows:

2 12/2 cables connected to box = 4 (9cu.in.).
All grounding conductors = 1 (2.25cu.in).
A luminaire stud, hickey or strap (to support the light) = 1 (2.25cu.in).
Fixture wires less than 14 AWG = 0 (see 314.16(B)(1)ex 1.).
Total Box Fill = 6 (13.5cu.in.).

So you'll need at least a 4" x 1 1/2" round/octagonal box, for the last box.

Switch Boxes

1 12/2 cable connected to box = 2 (4.5cu.in.).
All grounding conductors = 1 (2.25cu.in.).
Switch = 2 (4.5cu.in.).
Total Box Fill = 5 (11.25cu.in.).

This means you'll be able to use any device box larger than 11.25 cubic inches, for the switches.

Final Diagram

While 12 AWG wire may be a bit overkill for this installation; if that's the size wire you have, there is no problems using it.

According to section 300.15 of the National Electrical Code, all junctions must be made in a box or conduit body. Section 314.29, adds that the box must be "accessible without removing any part of the building".


What is the purpose of a bathroom fan filter? What is the risk of not using a filter?

It's similar to the reasoning behind using a filter for your AC units. You want to filter the air to prevent clogging up the coils and dirtying up the ducts. There is a lot of moisture in a bathroom and if you mix that up with dust and lint from towels you've got a combination of particles that will stick to the blades of the fan and also clog up the shaft which will reduce or even stop the spinning of the fan and also settle in the duct work before reaching the outside. The filter will stop this from happening. Do yourself a favor and replace the filter. If the fan returns air back into the bathroom, a filter will clean the air for better breathing.


Looks like termites.

Termites travel in mud tubes and those pictures look like your drywall has lots of mudtubes.   They may not be eating the drywall (maybe the paper) but using it as a conduit to get to your wood.
That bug is a some sort of fly. It could be a dragonfly with a pair of wings missing or eaten.  A dragonfly is a predator of a termite.

But I think after some investigation, it is most likely a robber fly.

Robber Fly Pics and Information


Probably the temperature in the boiler is set too low: you should keep it, at least, at 70°C to have enough hot water because if you keep it lower, cold water coming inside the boiler will cool the water present quickly.

Another option is that the anti-scald automatic valve has gone bad (or  is poorly set).


Can I connect my water heater pan drain to the building waste drain? (CPC)

An Approved location that I'm aware of is like a Floor Drain. Though Ariel is Correct, you would need an Air Gap. So the pipe would have a 1" min Gap to the Drain so that any back flow of water could not touch the exit pipe.   The Main issue here is keeping the sewer gases in the system and not outside. This is what the p-Trap is for.  Its a water barrier to prevent sewer gases from escaping the system. The Water Heater Drain pan does not typically have water and any p-Trap installed in that line would not have any water in it to fill the p-Trap.

My HVAC system is in the Attic and it sits in a large drain pan so if the AC leaks water will drain out. They plumbed the 3/4" PVC drain to a Soffit vent over a window. The purpose for the over the window was it would be obvious to someone that there was a leak.

Hope that helps.


Can I use mortar to fill channels in a concrete floor?

How wide are the channels? Mortar is ok for smaller areas less than 3/4" any bigger than this I would want to use fine aggregate cement (not just sand as in Mortar).


Can I have a handrail on only one side of the stairs?

Legality would depend on the laws applicable to your local jurisdiction. I can tell you that discontinuous handrails are a safety hazard and are against all current model codes in the US. But at the time of installation, if it was allowable, you are not obligated to change it.

From a safety standpoint, you should remove the upper portion and install a long continuous rail on the opposite wall. The lower rail needs to remain as a guard rail to protect from falls off the stairs to the lower floor.

If or while you're at it, check up on all applicable details with your local building authority to ensure you're doing it right. Rail height, rail dimensions, standoff, extensions, etc. all have specific dimensions you should conform to if you're going through the the trouble to make a safer stairway.


Can stranded wire handle the same high voltage as solid core?

No, you'll need the proper electric fence extension wire

The problem with a standard UF or equivalent cable is that the insulation is only rated for 600V, far less than the several thousand volts that an electric fence energizer puts out.  As a result, you'll need a specialized electric fence extension wire and matching splices that are rated for such high voltages to replace the damaged wire.  Using the wrong stuff will cause the wire insulation to break down and fail, leading to your fence grounding out.


Though this doesn't seem to be much of a problem at the moment, it can get really bad if you don't take care of it. First, I suggest you clean it with normal soap and warm water, and then there are stronger liquids (or other sorts of detergents) you can use, but I think normal soap will do the trick (unless you'll repaint it later, then use strong detergents). But, this doesn't mean that this won't happen again. So you'll need to remove the moisture problem. Firstly, if possible, check if there are any water pipes inside the ceiling. If there are then make sure they're not leaking. Second, try to install a better ventilation system in your bathroom (i.e. air ventilator). Make sure you open doors and windows regularly or keep them always open.


That is a lot of water pouring out of your soffit.

To find roof leaks, we use a garden hose and start at the eave and work our way up the roof.

Often we discover it’s not the roof membrane, (especially if there’s no roof penetrations like roof jacks, skylights, etc.), but rather the joint between the roof and an upper wall. It’s easy to accumulate a significant amount of water if it hits a wall, runs down the wall and then under the roof membrane. The water will run down the roof sheathing until it finds a gap...then flows out.


What is a NON-self-tapping screw? What does self-tapping mean, really?

To "tap" in this context means to cut threads into a hole.  For this topic, we can think of three basic things a screw can do - drill its own hole, tap its own threads, or just force its way into the material tearing out a hole or threads in the process.

Using this image from that wikipedia article:

The top screw is self-drilling.  The sharp, split point acts as a drill bit to create a properly sized hole.  At the top of that drill point, the threads taper up, and this is the self-tapping portion.  All self-drilling screws are also considered to be self-tapping, and the common vernacular is to just call them "self tappers".

The next three screws in the picture have a blunt tip, so they are not capable of drilling.  They require a pre-drilled hole, but they have a notch or flute at the tip, and this is what the screw can use to cut its own threads or "self-tap".  These are pure "self tapping" screws, but you don't see them for sale at the big home stores.  They are used more in industry to assemble goods on a factory level.  You can buy them - they're just not as common.

The Wikipedia entry has it wrong

This picture from the Wiki page is just regular sheet metal screws and shouldn't be on a page describing self tapping screws:

These do not have a drill tip, and they do not have a flute to cut threads.  Sure they are a little sharp, but not sharp enough to make a hole in sheet metal.  They need a properly sized hole.  If driven into a hole that is too small, they will tear the hole wider (if they are stronger than the sheet metal) and create a weaker connection than a self-tapper that properly cuts the right threads.


Back to the store it goes.
Switches which only take backstab connections are the cheapest of the builder/slumlord grade cheap.
Backstab connection, in general, are bad news - while legal, they are widely known to be unreliable.  They tend to knock out half your circuit and send you on a frustrating "bug hunt" - hang out here for a week and you'll see 2-3 such questions pop up.
Further, backstab connections can only be used once because pulling the wire out fatigues the spring.  I have a hunch this is a used one, and into the trash that goes!
New builder-grade switches are about 75 cents and have side screws.  New spec-grade switches are $3 and allow screw-to-clamp (2 wires under each screw; no backstab) which is safe to reuse.
No part of a 20A circuit can be #14 wire.
None.  You simply need to use appropriate hardware. That ain't it.
You do not need to use the expensive 20A-rated switches, unless the load you are switching is actually that big :)


After removing a wall how to repair an odd shaped section of hardwood floor

Going side-to-side with a contrasting prefinished flooring can work.  When I did this at my house, the flooring runs were perpendicular to the closet, and of course, they didn't lineup.  I made a diagonal section 4ft wide section, across the whole room.

They make floor medallions that could disguise the transition.  You would have to extend new flooring to either wall.

Ceramic tile would be another option.


If the blower is continuously blowing, then one of the limit switches is open.  It may not be the high limit, but it's certainly one of them. Without knowing more about the unit (model number, photo of the schematic, etc.), it's difficult to offer much more assistance.


Replace evaporator coils when replacing R22 condenser with a 410a unit?

I agree replacing everything will save in the long run. Flushing the system rarely gets everything and residue in the system can shorten the new system life. When the company recoveres the R22 out of the system being removed from service that same R22 can be used to top your other R22 system legally. Other than that it is supposed to be sent back to a recycler.


How can I insulate a basement wall that has 1x1 framing installed on it?

There is a rigid polyisocyanurate foam core insulation, often sold under the brand name Super Tuff from Dow that has a higher R value than XPS. It is R-13 in 2 inch panels and is higher if you trap a small air barrier behind it (around R-15).

The foam has a foil vapor barrier on the back.

You could

mount this on the existing furring foil side out, using glue and screws
seal the edges with foil tape
reinstall paneling with glue and screws throught the foam, into the existing furring.

HOWEVER: The paneling could hold itself up when mounted this way, and you could mount lighweight things, such as pictures. The walls would NOT be suitable for mounting shelves, fixtures, heavy mirrors, etc. You would need to take care and inform any subsequent owner that the walls were not intended for bearing any signifciant weight!


Building Steps Up to Code? First Time Attempting Steps

Building codes are talking about the height difference between each finished step and landing, once all treads and finished floors are installed.

You are allowed a 3/8-inch difference in rise between the shortest step and tallest step.
Also, max 3/8-inch difference in tread depth or run
Because the stair code folks love to say 3/8-inch, the amount of tread overhang should be 3/4-inch to 5/4-inch with up to a 3/8-inch variation between the least and most overhang

If you build a staircase where one step is 3-inches different height than all the other steps, people will trip on that step sometimes, and your homeowner's insurance will put the blame squarely on you.
I bought a book about staircases called Building Stairs by Andy Engel when I was doing a few projects at a home I owned where several staircases were falling down.  It was worth the money!  Many libraries are full of good home improvement books too; in my area, you can search online before you even go to the physical library to look.


What should I be aware of as I prepare to replace my bathroom vanity with a wall mount sink?

There are three things you need to consider:

Support;
Support; and
Support!

You NEED to find solid framing, probably uprights studs. You need serious screws/lag bolts into those studs. The sink is sure to come with mounting instructions as to exactly how to attach, but framing is a key.  Masonry hanging may be possible, but you will need very deep, serious anchors.

Many wall mount sinks can also get some extra support in the form of slender metal legs that help lift up front lip. A pedestal sink is also very compact and adds a center support. Finally there are corner sinks that rely on support from two walls.

Obviously there are a few other things, once you have solved that.  Where do the supply lines come from? Where does the drain enter the wall/floor? You might avoid the skirt (if you want) if you can position the lines to make them appear symetrical, attractive, etc? What type of fittings do you think are acceptable to see (solid chrome or brass? braided flex? etc.).  If you are certain they will be hidden, less of an issue.

Oh, by the way, if you don't have good SUPPORT, the pipes will eventually leak.


Can I winterize sprinklers by running them with the water off?

Turning on the sprinklers after the main water feed has been shut off will not adequately drain you lines before freeze weather.

In rare instances some sprinkler system installations may have been setup with slope on the distribution lines out to the very tail end of each line. That tail end would also need to be accessible to be opened to let all the water flow out under gravity driven flow.

So you need to either get a professional out or could DIY if you have all the proper equipment. Often compressed air is used to force the water down the lines from the valves out to the extremities of the distribution lines. This air purge process may require removal of some sprinkler heads and/or closing them off so that the compressed air does not just leak out of the first heads on a line.


I want to install generic capability for future car charging. What 240v outlet on the outside of the house is acceptable?

In my humble opinion, I'd run #6-3 w/ground from the panel to a outlet box accessible from the outside and just cover it with a water tight cover. Wait until you get your car and then get the breaker and outlet according to the specs for your car. If you're running conduit, run a 1" conduit from panel to outlet box and pull the wire later on when you know the specs.


How do I fix flattened carpet pile? Can I prevent this from happening?

Lay a very damp, but not dripping, heavy towel over the mark, then iron it with a regular clothes iron on high heat.  Go over it for a few minutes until it's good and steamy.  Then remove the towel and brush the carpet with a stiff brush, against the direction in which the fibers are lying down.  Try to get them raised as much as possible and then let it dry.


Messed up the wiring in a 3 speed box fan, how can I fix this?

Do you have a multimeter? Specifically an ohm meter to measure continuity and resistance? Motor wires not necessarily color coded. But we still can find out.

If you have it you may follow these  steps:-

Out of 6 wires, see which one is directly linked on metal casing of the motor. This is the protective earth wire. This must go to the ground terminal of the mains plug directly. You should read zero ohm between this wire and motor body.

Now you have 5 wires left to work on. Prepare paper and pen to take note the resistance readings.

Select one wire as reference and measure the resistance of all other wires against it. Tabulate your findings on paper.

After few rounds of measurements, you should be able to see each wires having different resistance which can matched up with wiring diagram such as this below.

Take note higher speed wire having lowest resistance and lowest speed wire having highest resistance.  The wire designated for capacitor, its resistance depends on motor horse power. This wire is connected to the condensor coil of the motor.

Your capacitor should have the capacitance marked in microFarads (uF). CBB51 not telling anything. Higher the uF, lower the resistance of the condensor coil.


Can I control a 1500-watt electric wall heater with a motion-sensing switch?

Leviton ODS15-IDG

Rated 1800 watts at 120 volts

Single Gang Space

$45 at Amazon


Re-wiring plugged shop lights to LED panels

Hard wire your new lights.

NEC 410.62 Cord Connected Lampholders and Luminaires
(C)Electric-Discharge and LED Luminaires
(1)Cord Connection Installation. A luminaire...shall be permitted to be cord connected provided...the cord is visible over its entire length except at terminations.


Need extension cord with toggle for 2 lamps

Try one of these, available at your local hardware shop:


What should I do with an unused C wire when installing a thermostat?

You can either cap the wire with a twist-on wire connector (or similar device), or clip the uninsulated portion of the wire off. Once the uninsulated portion of the wire is covered, you can just tuck it away.

To be extra safe, you can disconnect the other end of the wire from the furnace.


How to wire a smart switch - 2 gang switch box?

I'm going to disregard some of the questions about the existing switch because they aren't relevant except for purposes of learning, and I'm not sure I understand them clearly. You can simply remove that switch because you know the hot comes from the other switch, and the load is the remaining black which presumably leads to the fixture.

You're on the right track except that your assumptions in number 2 are incorrect. You would not remove any of those whites from the bundle. Doing so would probably leave you with an open circuit. You'll need to add a pigtail from that bundle to your switch, which requires a neutral, whereas the original switch did not.


Do I need license to do electrical work in any residential home?

The general answer in most parts of the US is YES. The exceptions, generally, are:

Work on your own home
Limited "handyman" work - e.g., replacing receptacles or light fixtures, but not replacing breaker panels (with the line somewhere in between)

However, the specifics vary tremendously around the country (and even more around the world). Some places require a license to do just about anything. Others are far more flexible.

The requirements to get a license also vary quite a bit. Typically some combination of experience (which you have) and knowledge test (of code & best practices).


Will my tub drain properly if I create a P-trap by running it under a 4 inch floor joist?

If the drain is sloped correctly per your local building codes (mine state for  drain pipes under 2 inches the slope be 1/4 inch per foot) and it is connected to a stack of the proper size (usually no smaller than 1 1/4 inch pipe) then your drain and trap should operate trouble-free. Also be sure the distance from the trap to the vent or stack is correct (in my county any run over 40 feet will need a larger diameter vent).  As far as running pipe through framing members and joists you must be selective on the location to drill a hole through. This depends one the size of the joist and if it has existing openings already drilled into it. If you plan to use a non-drilled joist one opening (again, depending on the size of the joist)is safe. Be sure not to deviate from the starting slope.


How do I reinstall the glass dome on my light fixture?

Without being able to see the clips, I’m still going to say to try placing the lip of the glass cover against two of the clips and then press against the opposite side of the cover: use the cover to press in the clips. You can then use your other hand to press in the remaining clip.

You may actually find that one of the clips is fixed. In this case, use the cover lip to press in the two mobile clips, raise the cover to fit under the fixed clip and then release pressure to let the cover lip slide into the fixed clip.


Is a2x8x10' enough support as a ridge beam for a 14'x10' shed roof?

I assume from your description that your are stick framing (ie not using trusses, and not with any ceiling joists.

The short answer to your question is "maybe", but probably not. The answer to the question depends on the expected wind and snow loads in your area, the species of the wood you plan on using, whether it's normal dimensional lumber, or a laminated beam.

My best advice is to find the permitting authority for your area (typically either the city or building department), and go in and talk with an inspector. They can give you a much more definitive answer than you can get from us, and you can be more confident in it. If you are in an area where that is difficult, the best answer I can give you is that a single 2x10 may work if you have very light loading, but I would be more comfortable with a doubled 2x10 instead. I tend towards overbuilding in cases like this, and the cost of a doubled 2x10 in cost and effort it minimal.

Note that with a ridge beam, you need to carry the load in an uninterrupted path from the beam all the way down to the footings. A 4x4 should be fine for that.

Hope that helps.


What preparation is required for tiling over poorly laid floor boards?

Anything rigid you put over a flimsy structure will be destroyed over time because it won't have the support it needs.  Most tiles (except plastic/vinyl) don't handle bending well.

Self leveling compound doesn't add rigidity, it just makes a smooth top surface.

You need to fix the structure first.  That means going down before you go up.


OK, disconnect that pendant light until you fix the problem. you can't have a ground wire carrying load. There is no neutral in that box.

You've got to choices (well, maybe more), you can run a new feed to the duplex switch and utilize the unused white and red wires to get neutral and switched power to the pendant light after disconnecting the switch from the existing source. You could also run a new feed to the pendant light box, connect neutral to light and utilize the black and red wires for switched hot after disconnecting switch from existing source.

Remember to connect all grounds from new feeds to existing ground wires


How can I stop this GFCI receptacle from tripping?

A GFCI outlet works by measuring the magic electrons in and out on the hot and neutral legs and if they are different by a certain amount, trips the circuit to stop electricity from flowing, on the principle that those electrons are going somewhere bad (your body, perhaps).

If the normal outlet is connected to the LOAD side of the GFCI (which it sounds like it is due to your problem statement), then your problem domain is the GFCI outlet, the cabling from the GFCI to the normal outlet, the normal outlet, and the freezer and refrigerator.  As a first step, try unplugging the freezer and the refrigerator to see what happens without them plugged in.

However, more than likely, the compressor motors on one or the other are at fault, and in general terms, these devices should not be on GFCIs.


How to determine the polarity of a lamp?

The shell of the bulb socket (i.e. the part with the threads on it) should be neutral. There are many ways it's possible for you to be on contact with the shell:

while handling a fixture, i.e. to keep it from falling or to steady it
while screwing in a bulb
using cheap LED bulbs with metallic heat sinks (many of them either bond the heat-sink to the screw-base shell, or the insulation is so thin it could easily breach there.)

All of this is for nought, if your lamp does not have a polarized plug: note the extra-wide blade on one side in this photo.  This keys it, to make it impossible to insert wrong in a NEMA 5-15, 5-20 or 1-15 socket.

If it doesn't, you should get a polarized plug or cord with plug.   On a cord with a pre-molded plug, there will usually be ribbing or marking, and that should be on the neutral side, which is the extra-wide blade.

The ribbing is meaningless on a user-attached plug, or non-polarized plug.

To be sure, either

measure with an ohmmeter (zero ohms from shell to the wide blade on the lamp's plug, infinity to tip in all switch positions)
measure with a voltmeter, with lamp plugged in, from the shell to holes on a nearby receptacle - near 0V to ground (that could also mean a bad connection) and 120V away from hot (sure, but more dangerous to measure).
dismantle the lamp and visually follow the wire, noting the rib/marking on the wire. Check the plug to make sure the rib/mark does indeed go to the wide blade.

Lamp cords with pre-molded plugs can be readily had from a proper electrical supply, McMaster-Carr, or by hacking an extension cord of appropriate gauge (typically 18 AWG unless it's one heck of a lamp). Use cords that are white, translucent yellow, brown or black - avoid obvious "I hacked an extension cord" colors like dark green.


Can a surge protector prevent electrocution?

No, a surge protector will not.

An RCD (Residual Current Device) or GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) aka ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker) are the devices that can provide protection, BUT you should be aware that nothing is 100% - these devices can fail...

You should get the cords away from access by your pet, shielding or protective strips or even moving the cables out of reach are possibilities.


You're absolutely right & that's what's happening...unless of course you have the wrong belt. It's time to buy a whole new Rotator thanks to planned obsolescence.

Although, I might be willing to try some sort of retainer until the new Rotator arrives. Maybe 3 screws on either side of the belt area around the rotator body & far enough away as to not saw through the belt. Or, band clamps holding thicker plastic strips (sides of plastic lids or layers of soda bottle bodies) around the rotator body. A screw on guide or retainer where the belt comes out to the rotator...nothing on the rotator so you don't spend 3-days balancing out. You get the idea.


How do I connect the #6 Al wiring from my 40 amp breaker to the #8 Cu wires in my new cooktop?

Aluminum is common in this larger wire, and often, connections are made to screw-down lugs. In fact the lugs are often made of aluminum.

So first, check the lugs on the range and see if they're already listed for aluminum.  If not, it may be possible to get lugs that are.

Alternatively, you can get a wide variety of screw-lug splices for aluminum.  That's all an Alumiconn is - an exceptionally small lug.  The above link explains why they work.   This type of screw lug is also the standard wiring method in Europe.  Here are photos of Alumiconn; a larger lug connector (see the resemblance), and the Euro style.   Lastly, here's the split bolt that ThreePhaseEel is referring to.

But the best way to please the Ms. is make sure you have a separate ground wire.  35 years ago, the common practice was to not bother running an equipment safety ground, and simply hijack neutral as ground. This is still permitted in old-work because of lobbying by appliance makers. But it's a terrible idea; if the neutral wire has a problem, the 120V loads in your range pull neutral up to 120V - and since neutral is tied to ground, this energizes the chassis of the machine at 120V.  Touch the range and the sink, and you're dead.   The good news is it's totally legal to retrofit just a ground wire and keep the conductors.


Check the wire size. Generally when you go up 4 wire sizes ( 8 --> 12 --> 16 or 10 --> 14 --> 18 ) you cut your current capacity in half.

So whatever your thermostat wire size is, subtract 4, get the ampacity from table 315.16, and divide by 2.

Since the operating voltage of a Raspberri Pi is 3-5 volts, your bigger problem is going to be voltage drop.  You'll need to run the numbers and see if the voltage drop at that current is acceptable. What is trivial drop at 24V is unacceptable at 3V.

Do not parallel conductors - even when this is allowed, on very large wire, each wire must be fused separately - including neutral/return.  However since the failure mode of one cable would be voltage sag, you won't want that.