Contact your power company Right Now and report an outage

It'll be fixed for free in 2 hours.

You actually have a power outage.   Your house is partially working because electricity is delivered in 3 wires.  When one wire fails, there's a 2/3 chance of having your 240V circuits go out along with half your 120V circuits (unless you turn on a 240V appliance, then weird things happen).

However there's a 1/3 chance of the 240V appliances continuing to work, but the two banks of 120V appliances drifting significantly off 120V.  One goes higher than 120V, and the other one goes lower by equal amount.  They still add up to 240V, but one appliance is getting 190V while the other one is getting 50V. And worse, it changes as you turn loads on and off.  This is called a lost neutral. The neutral's job is to clamp voltage at 120V.

This last mode is the most dangerous and the most difficult to detect. This is usually on the power company's end.  Given that you just replaced everything on this end, I'd say 99% in this case.  The power company fixes this for free.


How to run second disconnect/load center from meter

The issue with 3/4 wires isn't about ampacity.  It's about grounding electrode systems and

Where's your main panel?

Electrical service is 3-wire from the pole to the main panel, and it operates under service rules.  After the main panel, power must be carried 4-wire and it operates under the feeder rules.

Right now it's arguable (and possibly grandfathered) that the disconnect and  your run from garage to house is all part of the service. To follow this logic through, the house has the one main panel and thus the one official neutral-ground bond. The cable run benefits from the 310.16b7 uprate, meaning the wire only needs to be rated for 83% of ampacity, or 83A not 100A.

If you add the garage panel as you mean to, with both disconnects right next to each other, the house run can no longer be a service.  It moves the "main panel" point to the garage.   Now the house panel is a subpanel. It will need separation of neutral and ground in the panel and all the way back to the garage.  The connection is feeder not service, and ground must be present. That means the permissive 83% uprate goes away and the wire must be rated for full 100A, so it may be now too small.

The upside is that ground can be retrofitted separately, it doesn't require total replacement of the cable.  Ground does not need to be bundled with the conductors because it does not flow current except in emergencies.  It can follow any practical route.


Can an external light fixture and an external receptacle share a circuit?

Should you? No, Greebo is right (+1), lights and outlets should be separate.

Can you? Maybe, it depends on whether the power source is at the light fixture, or at the light switch. If it's at the light switch, then your outlet would also be switched.

What do you need to know? Everything about electrical safety and codes so that you don't electrocute yourself or create a dangerous situation. Things like turning the power off at the breaker, testing the lines before you touch anything, using a GFCI outlet, using an outlet cover for exterior protection, stapling the wire to the stud, using the proper gauge wire, etc. If any of that list leaves you scratching your head, it would be best to hire a professional.


Electric cooker plate trips the power - why?

GFCI aka RCD
Water and electricity don't mix. Or rather, when they do it is often fatal.
In order to help prevent problems, GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter - common terminology in the USA) and RCD (Residual Current Device - common in many other countries) are now required in many countries, particularly for kitchen and bathroom receptacles as those are the most likely to have water problems.
When you cleaned the appliance, you probably ended up with some water dripping down inside it where you can't easily dry it off. That little bit of water is conducting a little bit of electricity from the normal circuit wires to the rest of the appliance. The result is that some electricity doesn't flow back through the normal path and the GFCI or RCD detects this and trips.
How can you fix it? In some cases, just waiting long enough for everything to totally dry out will solve the problem by removing the conductive water from the appliance. However, this may actually be a symptom of a larger problem - e.g., worn insulation or cracked components that allow water to get where it shouldn't and cause problems.
With a small appliance the answer is almost always "toss it" - for a typical $10 - $50 appliance the costs (time and/or money) involved in opening it up to clean/dry/fix it are just not worth it and the risks of not doing it right are significant. With a large appliance sometimes the repairs are worthwhile.
If it was me, I would give it a few days to see if it dries out and if it does not then either look for a replacement or see if an appliance repairman can fix it. The catch is that (as has happened to me with other problems) you might pay for a service call only to be told "not worth fixing".


T12 Fluorescent ballast bypass not working

Looking at the Phillips web site it states replacement tubes no rewiring needed.
I do not see anything that states universal. Universal usually have the info on single ended or double ended.
Replacement lamps require a functional ballast.
This is why I say UTube can get you in trouble sometimes guys do not know what there doing. Some times they make it look like they did something getting you to follow their instructions blindly and blow things up.


To find the exact spot where the squeak originates, use a meter-long piece of 3/4" heater hose or vinyl tubing. While you squeak the chair, your assistant uses the tubing like a stethoscope to find the loudest point under the chair.
Once you have found the point, mark it with a pen or chalk. It could be metal-to-metal, metal-to-plastic, or plastic-to-plastic. It could be in the center support, in an adjustment plate, or in the seat bottom or back.
You could spray something, rub a wax crayon, or sprinkle powder, depending on the exact location. Good luck, and keep trying.


Ungrounded outlet indicates grounded when an UPS is plugged in

The cheapie 3-light testers work by connecting 3 lamps in a triangle fashion across the 3 outlet pins.   The hot-neutral lamp works in the obvious way.  The hot-ground lamp works if the ground pin can find a path back to neutral, presumably via a ground wire correctly bonded to neutral in the panel.  But not necessarily.

It sounds like the UPS is connecting neutral to ground in some way.  Perhaps with its own onboard ground tester.

All of this is idle amusement.  If you know there's no ground wire, then that's your answer - the tester's output is irrelevant.  These testers are a little bit hokey and are not the last word on the subject.


Is it okay to connect 2 ground wires to a single ground screw?

In all my years I have never seen a device ground screw rated for two conductors. Even clamp type ground connectors found on GFI devices are only rated for one conductor.

You will need to pigtail a single wire to the device. This can be achieved several ways. A green wire nut, a ground crimp, or a standard wire nut are examples.


Is "unstructural plywood" suitable for shelving carrying a microwave oven?

From my reading, unstructural is not ok in damp/wet or areas with temperature changes. Microwaves put out a decent amount of heat and moisture, so I would not use it in this application.

Personally, I like to use solid wood for shelving as it is pretty cheap (pine) and you can normally get it in a size/length very close to what you need.


fixing up a 1920 row home - wood paneling everywhere - Advise before I go in?

Surface is surface. Paneling is surface. Surface is the cheapest and easiest of home repair.

Tearing it down can do no harm. You will almost certainly need to install a new surface material on any wall you strip, but drywall is cheap and fairly easy. If you are going to tile (e.g. in the bathroom), you need a better base than cheap woodish paneling.

Also, it gives you a chance to find any hidden problems. Better address them now than after you have decorated.


The wall is not structural and the top plate tie-in is not structural if, 1) the trusses are tied to the remaining wall, 2) the top plate is spliced properly.

1) Any lateral bracing that the wall could provide, can be taken by attaching the existing roof trusses to the top plate. I like using Simpson H-1 clips to tie the truss to the top plate. I like the H-1 because it provides lateral resistance and uplift resistance.
See: https://www.strongtie.com/resources/product-installers-guide/h1-installation

2) The existing top plates need to be properly lapped (spliced), which now needs something like Simpson LSTI strap. I like the LSTI strap because it’s made for application on a single plate. See: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-LSTI-3-3-4-in-x-49-in-18-Gauge-Strap-Tie-LSTI49/205326016

The bottom plate extends past the wall, so provide a block at the top plate where the wall is removed and center the strap at the intersection of where the wall was located.


The core of your question is a standard wiring scenario: You have the hot coming through the load and the switch at the end.  Your proposed wiring is correct.  Diagrams are easy to find online, e.g.,

Of course you should be wary of cables (4) and (5): If they are properly terminated in the work box you can leave them.  If they are wired into the switch right now you should disconnect them until you find something else in the house that is not receiving power but should, and then remember that you now have a hot in that junction box you can tap.


How to prevent squirrels from damaging pipe boots?

Do not allow squirrels or any animals access to roof by eliminating trees which are less than 6 feet away.


How can I stiffen the subfloor of an upstairs bathroom?

There are two choices to stiffen a floor system

Halve joist span with a beam.
The beam-in-joist method has the advantage of minimal final impact on the room below.  It does mean spanning the beam to a load bearing walls.
Double up joists in area.
This requires removing floor or ceiling to sister existing joists. The joists also have to span as far as the existing joists.

The beam-in-joist solution should be confirmed with a building plan review for point load considerations under the transferred supports.

Update: I did come across a very thorough article from Fine Homebuilding "6 Ways to Stiffen a Bouncy Floor". (its a .pdf file)

Could I suggest a roll or 2 of Ditra (Schluter) under some nice tile?


Are the connections in the pictures below an attempt at stealing power for another apartment

Call an electrician immediately that panel doesn't look safe.

It looks like someone with some electrical knowledge attempted to do some work, that is definitely not to code and should be fixed properly immediately.


Honestly, anywhere. Mold grows on walls, ceilings, windows, floors, furniture, air ducts, on clothes, etc.

My water heater had burst in my basement and had gone unnoticed for 3 days (I was away on vacation). I hired a restoration service. They found mold all the way on the opposite end of the basement. They said it was because of heavy moisture in the room.

Mold is one thing that is not worth messing with. I would hire a contractor to take an air quality test to confirm.


My doorbell chime is partially broken; is this a wiring problem or a problem with the chime mechanism?

The simple path is to replace the chime.

The plungers get dirty and the added resistance makes them not slide correctly.

Only one plunger should move for front, each end of it hits a different chime (Ding-Dong). For back, the other plunger is blocked so it only hits one of the chimes (Ding).

It’s possible to clean plungers with alcohol then lubricate with graphite. Don’t use WD40 or oil, it attracts dirt and gets gummy over time, recreating the problem.


Is High Friction Aggregate a type of stone or treatment applied to a stone?

I don't know of a residential use.

It is more a class of stone than a type.

For roadways, high friction aggregates (calcined bauxite is the most common component) is applied (bonded would be a better description) in areas where skids frequently occur, to improve traction.


How should I eliminate an unused switch in a two gang box?

Hold on. You can't just eliminate lights

You may notice that in almost any room you go into, anywhere, you have an intuition as to where to reach for the light switch.  The light switch is in an expected location.  That's not by accident.  That's established in the Building Codes.   It is mandatory.

It also comes up in NEC Section 210.70(A)(1), which provides rules on dwelling unit lights and switches. source

So as you eliminate light switches, you must make sure you don't eliminate the legally required ones.

"But we're not moles, of course there will be light, you'll just have to know the secret way to turn it on".  Nope. Nope. Secret ways are not allowed.  They may work for you, but won't work for guests, particularly First Responders.

If in doubt, post a room layout drawing here showing lights and switches.

How to do it

In normal 1-way switches, they have 2 switch terminals.  That is all.

If there are 2+ wires going to the same terminal, I recommend doing something to indicate to the next person how this was wired; e.g. Mark the solo with red tape (if it's the switched-hot), or bundling the group with tape.

Then, simply join all wires with a wire nut.

Then, fit appropriate cover plates, as discussed elsewhere.  They also make little "switch plugs" that bolt up like a normal switch, but have no wires and simply a rectangular plug that fills the hole.

This allows  "the next person" to easily reactivate that feature if they find it useful, or if you're selling and your inspector catches a missing mandatory switch.


How do I replace a broken halogen bulb in the recessed light in my bathroom?

I think you will find that the bezel (the outer chrome trim ring) is attached to the locking mounting rods.(the coiled wire on outside of fixture)  You may need to open those rods, pull them up to 90degrees or more to the fixture and push them into the fixture body and the bezel will drop as the rods go in. It may also be connected to the bulb socket as well.


What is the best way to build up attic framing?

Method 1 and Method 2 do NOT strengthen the existing joist. They merely add “dead weight”.


Can you paint linseed oil putty with water based paint?

Normally you can use latex over oil based products (never the other way around) if they are fully cured and dried. If the putty you are referring to is glazing compound, then you may have to wait a bit longer for it to cure. Glazing is very slow to cure and take paint. If you can still very easily dent it with your fingertip, wait, the solvents have not yet evaporated.  You certainly can test a small area and see how it goes.  However, don't be surprised if you get some peeling in a few months. Oil based paints are hard to find now, but would work better. I don't know what product you used, but there may be some recommendations on the can about painting.


Stone, Brick, Concrete. Which material is the heaviest per cubic inch?

That kind of information is easy to find with google.  Here's one of the first that came up for me:
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/general/density-building-materials.htm

Concrete - 150 lbs/ft^3

Brick - 120 lbs/ft^3

Crushed stone - 100 lbs/ft^3

Limestone - 171 lbs/ft^3

If you really want some weight, go with cast iron - 450 lbs/ft^3

You're diagram shows 100 in^3 which is 0.058 ft^3

Concrete will be the easiest to work with in this application, but would come to just 8.7 lbs  A bit more then a gallon of water (8.3 lbs)


Can I mount a light switch and power on the outside of a wall?

I don't believe there's any code stating you need to put electrical wiring, outlets, switches inside the wall as long as they are of the correct type. Use conduit for both safety and asthetics.

It would violate codes to go the other way, and say run standard extension power cables inside the walls though.

Simple example:
How to


Are there any issues with this Trap Door Garage "Attic" Design?

You would do far better to put your access horizontally from the second floor of the house into the space above the garage.

I honestly figured with so many double beams stretching across the garage, Cutting a single one couldn't possibly have any effect on the overall structure

If they were not needed for the design, they would not be there.


Can an 18 inch duct be replaced by 4 smaller ducts?

At the first level you need to compare cross sectional area of the 18" round duct with the cross sectional area of the four 8" oval ducts. There is a secondary effect of using the multiple smaller ducts because it exposes the air flow to more inside surface area which increases the pressure drop some but that can be compensated for by making the replacement duct area be larger than the original.

The cross sectional area of an 18" diameter duct is:

I do not know the shape of the 8" oval duct that you were considering but assuming that it is a standard ellipse shape like this:

We can see that the A dimension would be half of the 8" size and the B dimension would be half of the standard 2x4 wall stud width of 3.5"

If using four of the oval ducts the total area would be:

21.99 * 4 = 87.96 sq inches.

So to compare 254.45 from the large duct to the 87.96 from the four smaller ones you can see that only about a third of the required area is provided. So the answer would be no, this is not a suitable replacement.

Of course if the 8" oval duct has a slightly different shape this could affect the calculation some but I'd still say that it wouldn't be enough.

Here is a graphical comparison:

Update for Obround Ducting

The obround ducting available from one source is 3" by 8" in size (assuming the 8" specified by the original poster).

The cross sectional area of a duct this size:

So for the 3x8 size being considered it would take (254.45 / 22.06) = 11.53 ducts to be equivalent to the one 18" round duct!!!


Old brick foundation walls, 125 years, need repointing and/or plaster finish. What is best method and materials to resurface these old bricks?

This Old House's website advises getting a sample of the current plaster and mortar to s lab so you can get them accurately matched, if I remember correctly. They seemed to be saying that it was important that the brick and mortar be matched to each other, tho I'm not sure why..


How can I add joists to an existing trussed ceiling?

This question really begs to have the analysis done by a structural engineer. That being said I can venture to suggest two ideas that may be suitable to your situation.

A) Probably the best way to provide adequate support for the drywall on the ceiling would be to screw flat 2x4's at right angles to the existing rafters onto the bottom of the lower rafter stringer. Place these on 16" centers so that you get the right spacing for the new ceiling materials.

B) If you try to add in 2x4 stringers in between the existing rafters you would definately not want to have those stringers have an unsupported span that was less than the segments on the lower side of the existing rafters. This likely means that a single cross header near the center is not going to be suitable. The rafter construction often has the support design of the rafter webbing in the shape of a W that divides the lower stringer into three sections. Your cross headers should be at points that the rafter webbing intersects the lower stringer of the rafters. Personally this method is so much more work than method A above I would try to avoid it.

You should check with your local building code administration to see if you can even use plywood to cover a garage ceiling of your style. If your garage is attached to your house there are often stringent regulations that specify the use of drywall at least 5/8" thick.


I use a vacuum pot to pull the bubbles out prior to using 2 part, you may need to sand most of the material off and add another coat. Most bubbles especially on a warm day do not disipate and many that have Not worked with 2 part over brush, when I first used 2 part I had the same problem. I sanded it back down then used a cheap vacuum sealer to pull the bubbles out. After that I poured the mix on and was careful not to brush hard and when it starts getting stiff (setting up) left it and I have found this method to be the best. Using mineral spirits with gloves and a rag helps but I could see voids if not totally clean, tough to do.


What happens if you varnish laminate flooring

It depends on the type of laminate. Some of the early styles were glued t&g if this is the style you have I might try a poly coat depending on the surface material, some are not wood and may not play well with poly, oil or latex. Of the wood and bamboo glued floors I installed poly did help.
Note do not sand with a drum sander the veneer is very thin. If it is a snap lock floor I would not try to use poly as this kind of floor flexes and the poly in the gaps will probably chip along the lines and look worse but I do not know this as a fact, the one house that the renter tried to fix the floor tried to sand it prior to varnishing but had taken the surface layer off , then left knowing their deposit was less than the damage they caused.


How do I clean mold from a leaky ICF foundation?

My last place I built my shop with icf, 1 wall is 11’ below grade, I used foundation drains and back filled with river rock, this is on a very steep hill and below the shop we have a French drain in front of the entire house , these drains flow an amazing amount of water , the 4” pipe full flow after a day or so of rain. So if you can dig it out and add drains then backfill with rock there will be nothing to hold the water on the wall then the drain will remove the water. I have used this process on many houses with sub grade walls and only 1 ever needed additional sealing and it was cinder block.
Providing the water a path that doesn’t hold water and getting rid of the water at the bottom usually works well. Then there is no moisture to create the mold. I use 3% hydrogen peroxide and water to kill mold it works really well and doesn’t stink.


How to specify tints for white wallpaint?

You select paint one of two ways.

Use hardware store paint chips

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You go to any hardware store and grab from their array of paint chips, the vast majority being pastel off-whites just like you are looking for, because everyone who paints their house wants the same thing as you.  Then you fiddle and fidget and maybe get some $6 samples and do some test patches or whatever, until you find the color you are happy with.

Then you go back to the hardware store, and get some more of those paint chips of that same color, draw X with a sharpie on the colors you do not want (they come 3-6 to a card), and hand that to your paint supplier and say "MATCH!!!"

It's not necessary for it to be the same hardware store or paint line amongst the three: Paint chip vendor, sample vendor, and final paint vendor. Though it does work better if the paint chip supplier matches the sample provider, once you have the color dialed in,  you can send the paint off for match to anybody.

Or, use paint chips of your own provenance

Look at any paint color system like Pantone, CIE, Munsell, RAL, or whatever source suits you.   Again, pick the paint chips that  you like.

You can also take that chip in to have any competent hardware store scan it and match it, however they may not be able to give half-pint sampler cans; you may have to get a whole quart.

You can also custom-mix sample sizes of paint from whatever compatible paints you have lying around. When you're near-white, you can start with snow white and add a very small amount of a deep color as needed to tune it where you want it.  Once you have a few tablespoons of mixed paint you're happy with, paint it onto some drift cards that have been pre-painted a very close primer color (i.e. white). Paint 2 coats.  Now you have "drift cards" you can present to any paint supplier and say "MATCH!!!"  Keep more of your drift cards on file, to make sure the match is true.

For ordinary paint suppliers, the science of matching colors is well-established, and they have no excuse not to succeed.

The only case where someone might have trouble is in dealing with narrow consumer-tier systems like Rustoleum, where they only sell a couple dozen colors (but controls are very, very good between cans, which you can't say with a custom mix).  In that case you might have to say something like "10 parts J123 cloud white and 1 part J234 barn red" or whatever.  The industrial-tier suppliers I deal with will cheerfully develop custom paint formulas to match your drift card.


Using you model number you can order an exact replacement handle from the manufacturer.


Pilot light on switch comes on when light is off

With pilot switches, you can get any combination you want, simply by wiring it differently.

Top: the pilot is on when the switch/light is on.
Middle: The pilot is on always.
Bottom: The pilot is on when the switch/light is off.  However, this works by leaking power through the bulb.  So it only works if the bulb is not burned out, and is able to tolerate this leakage (incandescents can for sure.)

In these drawings, ground is omitted for clarity, neutral is white, always-hot is black, and switched-hot is red for clarity.   The internal arrangement of the pilot switch is shown, so you can see why it works.

Note also the "upper right terminal" in my drawings.  See how it serves both the switch and the light.  In some pilot switches, this actually comes out to two screws on the side of the pilot switch with this side considered "common". In that case, the "sides" on your switch won't be in the same places, not that they ever are.


Breaker for my subpanel for the pool keep tripping

Im with Tyson on this one also. I suppose you could also have a short somewhere, or if anything is touching water it will trip a GFCI real fast.


Do I need chemicals if I drain my hot tub after 3 days?

Fill it on Friday, and use it all weekend. On Monday you chlorinate it, and let it sit chlorinated all week. This will prevent bacterial growth from taking over your filter. Drain and refill on Friday before the weekend, and don't add chlorine. Once you're done using it for the weekend, add chlorine. Rinse and repeat next Friday before the weekend.

I assume your intentions are to not bathe in chlorine, but hopefully the use of it is acceptable to you for spa maintenance during the week when you're not using it. The small amount left over after a drain and fill is negligible, but you could even drain, partial fill, and drain again if you want to be sure. It'll definitely be less PPM of chlorine than is in city water out of the faucet, but you said that water was free, so you may be speaking about well, rain, or lake water.

If you decide to never treat the water after using it for the weekend, then remove the paper water filter from the water filter housing and replace with either nothing or a perforated metal filter instead. Without any biological control, bacterial will use a paper water filter as a petri dish and grow wild.


How do you frame an exterior wall over 8 ft tall?

You buy longer lumber (2x4, 2x6).   I can go in big box and find 10' lengths, and sometimes 12'.   Any decent lumber yard I use sells these up to 12' in high quantity.

This isn't part of your question but I have worked on new homes over the past 20 years.   We have gone from mostly 2x4 exterior framing to 2x6.   Honestly unless you are in hurricane land there isn't a huge difference save for the fact of insulation.

Some people say you must do 2x6.  No you must not.  You can insulate a house better from the outside rather than inside the framing (I am not suggesting no insulation inside framing - I am suggesting insulation in framing and exterior sheething in extreme climates).

But but... I have had engineers that proved break points in framing with 2x4s and it is around 9-10'.   This is where you start seeing a degradation in foundation rigidity.   Sorry I do not have research for this but I saw this on multiple reports where we had plans for 10-12' ceilings.   So basically we were made to move to 2x6s.

I wanted to mention that because in fact I think for most moderate houses in moderate climates, 2x6 is overdoing it.  But when you start talking about higher ceilings there becomes engineering needs.


Running electric cable on top of foundation wall

Here is the pertinent article from the National Electrical Code:

334.15
(C) In Unfinished Basements and Crawl Spaces. Where cable is run at angles with joists in unfinished basements and crawl spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller than two 6 AWG or three 8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges of the joists. Smaller cables shall be run either through bored holes in joists or on running boards. [emphasis added]

Now the key here is what constitutes a "running board". Most inspectors would probably require at least a piece of 1-by material like 1 x 4 or wider in an open area, to be called a running board but this phrase is open to the inspector's interpretation. Stapling to the side of 2-by material on top of the foundation wall, as in your case, would be even better since it is protected from physical damage by the concrete wall.
If it is not going to be inspected, and there is room to staple another cable there, then you are free to do what you want anyway. It will be just as good as the wire that has been there since 1960 and apparently that has not been a problem.
Finally, it should be stapled within 12" of panels or boxes and no less than every 4.5 feet thereafter to meet Code requirements. If you use hammered metal staples do NOT mash the wire. Snug is what you're after.
Good luck and stay safe!


You probably don't need to worry about a vapor barrier in your climate.  Most building scientists recommend against them since they impede drying of the structure in at least one season of the year. (They are still required for northern climate zones)  While it would be best to have a continuous layer of insulation under the siding, homes have been built without such for many years. Between 40-50% of your energy escapes through air leaks, not insulation and while air sealing the sheathing is easiest it is still possible to do a good job from the inside.

The best solution would be to spray foam the wall cavities, ideally with a closed cell foam.  This gives you a nice airtight seal, and the foam has a high R value per inch.  This is, however, probably cost prohibitive for a small project. (If you could combine it with upgrading your home insulation it might be worth considering)

If you are handy I would recommend "poor man's spray foam".  Basically you fill the walls with sheet foam panels that are cut slightly smaller than the width between studs.  The gaps are then filled with canned foam to make a nice airtight seal.  This gives much of the same benefits as spray foam but it is slightly cheaper and more DIY friendly.

Once you have the walls insulated you can put up a drywall or interior paneling, again working to make the system as airtight as possible.

If the building is nice and air tight you should be able to climate control with a mini-split heatpump and you will have a very comfortable space.


Definitely cut the stile so as to leave a bit of wood behind on the cabinet. Then using a sharp blade and a straight edge, score the veneer. Many shallow passes are better than few deep ones. If you can cut all the way through, you can probably remove the veneer before you attempt to sand down the stub.

And if you are careful to not muck up the stile too much then you can attach it to one of the cabinet doors.


True, the grooves are to be installed vertically. Here is an installation sheet from LP, who manufacturer’s the siding:

https://lpcorp.com/media/1270/lp-smartside-precision-series-primed-panel-siding-installation-instructions-english-1.pdf

If you carefully read the instructions, you will not find any instructions that say it cannot be installed with the grooves horizontal. Rather, they only show it installed vertically.

Originally, T-1-11 siding was made from standard A-C plywood with a “textured” face ply (thus the T symbol in its name) and grooves cut into the plywood along the 8’ length.

This method of making “siding” was not acceptable, because the inner plies had voids. The voids were caused by spaces between the inner plies during fabrication. This allowed moisture to lay inside the siding and cause rot.

In order to avoid this problem, they started making the inner plies “plugged”.  Plugged meant they’d fill all the voids in the second and third plies so that moisture could not penetrate the siding.

Your siding must be that latter type of siding, because I do not see blistering or rot on the face of the siding.  Installing the siding with the grooves vertical or horizontal doesn’t matter with the inner plies plugged. Moisture cannot enter the siding.

Btw, you must have maintained your siding by repainting on a regular (3-5 years) period. Otherwise, any siding would have deteriorated and started showing signs of rot.

Btw, who paid for the home inspector? When I sell a property, I always pay for the home inspection, because if I don’t like it, I’ll hire another, and another, and another until I get one I like. (This works the same when I buy a property too.) If you paid for the home inspection, toss it and get another inspection.


Can only use small sump pump basin in crawl space, what can I do to prevent short cycling?

Your "basin" need not be sold as a "basin" -  the good old fashioned, fits very easily through limited access, pile of bricks or blocks that you use to line a hole that you dig (of whatever size you like, since you assemble the wall in place) will solve your diameter problem.
The other obvious solution would be a different pump with an adjustable float, or a secondary float switch for the pump you have that would prevent it from turning on at 7" when set in a deeper basin.
If you are dedicated to pre-manufactured sump basins, install several of them in close proximity connected by 3" or 4" pipes. The large aggregate you propose will fill much of the void space you propose to add - if you are digging that much hole, line it with bricks to get most of the storage capacity from the large hole (or use multiple connected basins.)


How to anchor railings into concrete correctly

There are several anchoring system for attaching to concrete or brick masonry. My favorite is a screw type anchor called tapcons. You need a hammer drill and a normal drill or impact driver to sink the concrete screws. The dill bit is included in the box of screws usually. Drill and prime the hole to remove excess dust. Then sink the screws directly in the holes. It cuts the grooves into the concrete when sinking.
There are also drop in anchors, redhead brand... with the hammer drill make your hole the correct dia. for the drop in anchor. Drill deep enough so the top is just below the surface. Then you have a drive tool that will flare the anchor securely in the hole. Afterwards the anchor will accept a normal threaded screw of the proper size. Remember to use weather resistant outdoor screws.
For widow shutters drill 1/4 in holes into morter joints an use plastic insert anchors. Then attach threaded screws thru the shutter into the plastic anchor


The tiny black specks that are not knots in your pictures are most likely from small particles of steel or iron causing staining. I wonder if your refinish process used steel wool (not a good idea on oak unless you are trying to stain it black.) The larger features with actual holes are, of course, knots, so if you have "holes that are not knots" you have not shown any pictures of them.

That new picture is a bit hard to see detail in (as you know) but there's certainly something knot-loke going on on the grain around it, so it probably is as well. Sometimes on an older floor that's been sanded down a lot you start to see stains from the steel nails, but that seems less than likely here.

To skip right to your water concern - probably not, since there's no sign of the floor buckling or failing to lay flat - wet hardwood floors tend to look like #expletive omitted# in short order as the bottom swells and the boards cup.


What is this implement called and where can I get one?

It's called a towel bar. Usually they come with the "bumps" so you might have to buy both.


Can I replace an outlet that uses knob and tube wiring with a grounded outlet?

If you need a receptacle that can accept a grounded plug but don't actually have a need for grounding, you have two options: (1) a GFCI-type receptacle marked with the words “No equipment ground,” and (2) a three-prong outlet protected by an upstream GFCI and marked with the words “GFCI protected” and “No equipment ground”. See section 210-7(d)(3) of the National Electrical Code.

If you actually need grounding, I'm afraid there are no shortcuts: you will have to rewire.  A trick to avoid opening the walls is to run the new wire in the (unfinished) basement or attic, then drill up from the basement or down from the attic into the wall where you want the receptacle.  Try to be a little more careful than the previous owner or electrician who rewired our house: we have a couple of holes in the floor because someone missed the wall!  If you rewire, you may have to obey the code's requirements for number and placement of receptacles, not sure.  In our house, the old two-prong outlets in the baseboards have been disconnected and left in place.


Power Comes into Light fixture from Panel, connected to switch how to wire always on outlet in

In order to install a receptacle that is not switch it must come from a location which has a source conductor, neutral and ground. If the power source is coming into a light fixture first then that would be the place to tap it. However if the switch was installed under the new NEC requirements, then it should also have a neutral and you can tap the conductors from there. Look to your feed going to the switch and see if it contains 4 conductors a source, switch leg, neutral and ground. I not you can also replace the feed from the light fixture to the switch with the correct cable.

Good luck


Can I convert ONE 3 phase connection power supply to become TWO 3 phase connections?

Assuming you mean receptacle, yes you can split a split a three phase branch circuit into multiple receptacles the same way it is done for regular 120V circuits. It's rare though as most three phase machinery draws a lot of power which warrants dedicated circuits. But, if you have a small shop and you only use one machine at a time, then it's fine.

My grandfather had a mini shop inside my fathers shop and he had a single 20A 208V circuit that ran to three twist lock outlets. He had a mill, lathe and surface grinder. All of which could easily share a single circuit because he never ran more than one at a time.


Centering my bed on a 12" post protruding from a wall

So that works well.
A couple of possibilities:

alcoves for storing bits with or without lamps

cupboards behind well access each side - again storage

But if you want the uncluttered look...


Grey Water Coming Out of Our Toilets, Sinks and Showers

I found out the problem. There was lots of rust build up on the well walls. The build up of rust eventually fell down into the water giving it the grey look and smell.


Advice for swapping out my gas dryer myself

Turn off gas to dryer.
Disconnect old line.
Take off teflon on old line.
Add new teflon.  (some will tell you to use a new connector but that is your choice depending the crimping of the old one and shape it is in)
Connect to dryer.
Turn on gas.
Check for gas leaks.
Run dryer and verify the gas working via flames on bottom burners.


Will Interlock aluminum tile prevent ice damming on a roof?

No, interlocking tiles will not prevent nor prevent the damage caused by ice dams.

Ice dams are caused by a combination of bad ceiling (attic) insulation and the freeze - thaw effect. Ice dams create a water-like slush that backs up under the shingles (and building paper) and then leaks into the house. So, unless those interlocking tiles are water tight, then they'll leak.

If you have adequate insulation AND adequate attic vents, then I'd check the perimeter of the insulation in the attic. If the insulation has expanded "up" and blocked the venting process, then it defeats the venting process and allows heat to escape up to the roof...which creates ice dams.

I'd stick my head up in the attic and see if you can see light shining in around the perimeter. If not, you need to add insulation baffles.


How can I vent a range hood that's not on an exterior wall?

It's unclear from your description, but is there an existing vent you're trying to connect to, which is 10x3.5"?

You ran 12x3.5" and are trying to connect to that?  The simplest way is to find a reducer to go from 10 to 12". I'm not sure if it's a standard part or not (probably not), but a sheet metal shop (or HVAC) supplier may have it in stock or can make it for you. It's not overly expensive to have them custom make a part like this (in the range of $40 to $100).

If you can replace the existing duct that would probably be better: the bigger the duct, the higher the airflow and lower the noise. It's also easier to find round reducers, so if the wall cap is round (which many are), then you may be able to just use off-the-shelf parts to do everything.


What can I use to fill gap between unpainted wood trim and wood sill?

Most silicone caulk manufacturers make caulks in a handful of tan colors:

If none of those colors match well enough, you could try looking for some wood putty. Some putty dries hard; some doesn't. Here's one possibility.


Firstly, some safety points/observations on your content...

Never, EVER, EVER, connect wires if you do not know the original connections without some pen & paper research, testing, and writing down what goes to what
If wires have burned, there are safety concerns to observe. Did the wires burn at the wire nuts ONLY (due to high resistance), or is the circuit overloaded and the wires melted due to too much current being pulled over an overloaded circuit? Again, this is paper and pencil work. What wire type is it? Looks like a standard copper 15 Amp circuit. Ensure the breaker is 15 Amps not larger, add up the demand on this circuit, are you trying to get more than 15 Amps from it?
Has the breaker been tripping often? How many amps is the space heater?
Due to the fact you've noted the wires are burned, make a list of all of the things on this circuit, and check the wires where the heater was plugged in, here at the fixture, and any points up to the panel, including looking at the wires for this circuit INSIDE the panel. If they are crispy and melted/burnt, you will need to replace the run
I'm glad you pointed out the sheathing missing on the wire, you need to check if the sheathing is crispy or broken elsewhere, all the way back to each of its connections. Do not use the wiring if it is. If it is only here, and CONFIRMED only here, you'll need to tape it/replace it.
If this is daunting, it would be best to hire an electrician to come in to do the repair, safety first!!

Most likely yes, the two blacks belong tied together (the whites probably do too.... but this all needs to be validated), but since the circuit blew, and the light no longer works, we know something in the circuit is not working. The burned wires need to be replaced. This is an indication that some other weak spot (at additional wire nuts, or the panel, or the breaker, and it could be hot or nuetral side) is broken/dangerous. You really do need to check it all the way back. You really do need to make sure you aren't exceeding the circuits capacity. Also, ensure the breaker is the right size. My post here is somewhat redudant, but it is very important to do these checks.


What size of lumber should I use for the mounting rail for shelves and cabinets?

Several different factors weigh in to what size of board you need.

Weight - Definitely the major factor.
Stud spacing - I'm assuming you've got standard 16" OC studs, and that you're attaching the support board to every one it spans.
Location of Mounting Points - The closer the mounts for the shelving are to centered between studs, the higher the bending load on the board.
Fastener Type - The thicker the fasteners used to fasten the board to the wall and the shelves to the board, the higher the stress concentration at those areas. Standard wood screws should be fine for fastening the board to the wall.
Use a Wide Board - The bending strength of a board goes up by a factor of width squared, and only linearly with thickness. So if you're flush mounting against a wall and don't have to worry about torsion, a 1x6 will be stronger than a 2x4.

Did you have a rough order of magnitude for the weight you'd like to hang? Just shooting from the hip, I'd think you'd be OK with a 1x4, or a 1x6 if you wanted to be safe.


What you need is a valve designed just for shower only. Not a valve assembly with a diverter, which are specifically designed for tub/shower combination:

No diverter here, most any manufacturer that you have seen offering the tub/shower valve sets also makes the shower only units. To answer your question, the point of the diverter valve is so you can fill the bathtub without water spraying on you out of the shower head.


Toilet gurgling/ bubbling and backing up on septic

How long ago did you have the septic tank pumped out before the toilet started having problems? If the toilet problems persisted after the septic was pumped, then the problem is in the drains to the tank. If the problem returned after the tank refilled there may be a problem with the discharge elbow or fitting and the solids are blocking the outlet. If the problem is from the tank discharge to the field, you may need a contractor to correct the problem.


How can I make mortar adhere to smooth flagstones?

Sorry but Tyler Durden is talking pure imaginative theory with no practical substance. Install drainage, which drains to where exactly. Install gravel and sand and put walls on it? Gravel, the roll around stuff? And sand the soft stuff?

Still sound like something you want under your walls? No.

Sure dry stone walling stands the test of time, provided there are zero, and I mean zero side thrust loads applied to the wall, ever. And definitely means no soil.

Mortar helps the wall absorb loads by simultaneously sticking the units together AND holding them apart. Probably the reason the mortar didn't stick (assuming you have proper/suitable mortar) is that your slabs were dusty/dry and the mortar was probably too dry.

To cure: Wash all dust off the slabs with a hosepipe and allow the surface water to soak in (the slab will still look dark/wet).  Mix the mortar using enough water to make a smooth, creamy mix that doesn't crumble.

Lay slabs using the nice and creamy mortar and tap into place, remove excess that squeezes out with a trowel and once the mortar has hardened off a little, tool it off with whatever finish you want (half round, struck with a trowel etc). Joint thickness shouldn't be too thin, aim for 10mm, give or take a few mm's either way.

At the end of the days work, cover down with fleece (or old blankets) and a layer of polythene. Keep 'green' mortar covered thus for a week or so.

At least thats how we lay brick/block/concrete stuff in the UK/EU...


Does a plumbing vent need to penetrate the roof? (Can it penetrate a wall?)

No problem, as long as the vent meets the criteria listed below.

Not directly below a door, openable window, or other air intake opening (of this or any other building).
Not within 10 feet horizontally of the above mentioned openings, unless it's 3 feet above them.
Not less than 10 feet from the property line.
Not less than 10 feet above the ground.
Not under the soffit, if soffit vents are used (Covered by point 1 in my opinion).
Must be protected from birds and/or rodents blocking it.

  International Plumbing Code 2012

  Chapter 9 Vents

  Section 903 Vent Terminals

  903.5 Location of vent terminal.
  An open vent terminal from a drainage system shall not be located directly beneath any door, openable window, or other air intake opening of the building or of an adjacent building, and any such vent terminal shall not be within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of such an opening unless it is 3 feet (914 mm) or more above the top of such opening.

  903.6 Extension through the wall.
  Vent terminals extending through the wall shall terminate at a point not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) from a lot line and not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) above average ground level. Vent terminals shall not terminate under the overhang of a structure with soffit vents. Side wall vent terminals shall be protected to prevent birds or rodents from entering or blocking the vent opening.

And don't forget, if required you have to protect any extensions from freezing.

  903.7 Extension outside a structure.
  In climates where the 97.5-percent value for outside design temperature is less than 0°F (-18°C), vent pipes installed on the exterior of the structure shall be protected against freezing by insulation, heat or both.


To me that looks like dielectric grease leaking out.
That is the building ground bus looks like it was cad welded on the left of the one photo I would be really surprised if you were getting enough return on that large of a ground to melt things. May be A plug to cover the connections.
Always a good idea to call when in doubt but I think it is grease or a anti oxide compound.


How do I prevent older paint peeling off drywall when applying new paint?

Ooh. this problem is one not easily answered without more info:

Heat Blisters:

Paint bubbles can show up pretty quickly, from within a few hours to a few days after application. The blisters are only in the top coat of paint and appear most often in oil-based paint. A quick rise in temperature, like sunlight shining directly on the newly painted wood, causes a thin skin to form on the outer surface of the paint. The skin traps inner wet paint that produces vapor when it heats up. The vapor expands and causes the paint to blister from underneath.
To repair blisters, scrape them off, smooth the edges, and repaint, being sure to avoid direct sunlight while the coat dries. Experts suggest establishing a painting order that follows the sun around the project. Thick coats and dark colors are more likely to blister than light colors and thinner paint.

Water Blisters:

Moisture causes problems for paint. Rain, dew, ice, and snow on the outside or vapor and moisture buildup from the inside can cause problems with exterior paint. When moisture penetrates the paint, blisters can form and paint can peel. Moisture blisters, unlike temperature blisters, go through all coats of paint down to the wood. To stop moisture blisters, you must locate the source of the moisture and repair it. Improper construction techniques and lack of flashing can cause outside water to pool at joints, on window sills, frames, or on the end grain of the wood.

Intercoat Peeling

Another type of peeling occurs when a newer coat of paint separates
from the coat underneath. An inadequately prepared or dirty surface
is one cause for a weak bond. Another is that the two paint layers
are incompatible. For example, an oil-based paint may have been
applied over a latex-based paint. They are incompatible and can peel
away from one another.

Peeling can also occur when too much time has elapsed between
applications of the primer coat and the top coat. If more than two
weeks separates the primer application and the paint coat, the
primer’s surface can begin to break down and prevent proper bonding
with the paint. To correct the problem, you must remove the paint and
properly clean the surface.

Cross-Grain Cracking or Crazing

Too many layers of paint or one layer that is too thick can result in
an interconnected, uneven pattern of cracks. The thick paint is
unable to expand and contract with the wood, so breaks result,
starting in the outer layers. If the problem is not corrected,
moisture enters the paint layers, causing deeper cracking and
deterioration.

Surface cracking may require sanding and repainting. Deeper cracks
will require a complete removal of the old paint. Once the wood is
bare, clean it and treat it with a paintable, water-repellant
preservative. Once the preservative has dried, apply a primer and top
coat at the recommended spread rates.

Chalking

Some exterior paint has a powdery coating. Chalking comes from the
disintegration of the paint resin due to exposure to the sun’s
ultraviolet rays. This gradual deterioration is how paint is supposed
to age. Too much, however, can cause discoloration of other painted
areas below as rain washes off the chalk. It also signals that the
paint is rapidly deteriorating.

Chalking was more of a problem with older paints that contained
excessive pigment for the amount of binder, but other triggers
include the failure to properly prime and seal exterior wood,
spreading the paint too thinly, or thinning the paint too much. To
correct excessive chalking, the surface must be cleaned and
repainted.

Staining

A stain is typically caused by moisture. The most common source is
rusting metal nails or anchoring devices in the wood. The second
cause is a chemical reaction between moisture and wood, such as red
cedar, which results in color buildup on the surface.

Rusty nails can be hand sanded and coated with a rust inhibitor and
finish coat. Unless the wood is too fragile or the exposure of the
nail head is related to the original construction system, it’s best
for nail heads to be countersunk, primed, and filled before painting.
Stains from wood extracts need to be cleaned, rinsed, dried, and
primed with a stain-blocking primer before applying the finish coat.
Check with a knowledgeable local paint retailer for the best cleaning
mixture.

Incompatible Paints

If you are using two incompatible paints.  Generally, paint
manufacturers like to match primers with top-coats This is more
applicable when painting metal surfaces (enamel paints). The reason
for this is that there are a few acidic or highly alkaline or soluble
salts primers, which could be water based, oil based or acrylic some
combinations don't play well!. generally sticking with a certain type
is ok i.e water based primer with water based top coat.

source: Dictionary of causes of paint blisters


How can I stop new solid oak floor from squeaking?

For a non-floating floor, you would stand on the squeaky part while someone screwed in through the sub-floor in to the squeaky part of the floor.

I've never dealt with floating floors before, but I assume this is not an option because the movement might cause cracks?


Repair basement stud walls after french drain

I would do exactly that using PT lumber for the plate and the extensions. You'll need a powder load gun to fasten the plate to the concrete. I would cut the extensions to go under the existing studs (tightly) and sister a piece to tie the stud and extension together. How do you plan to fix the wainscoting/paneling? My guess is you will probably end up tearing all of that off. In which case--it may be simpler to replace the entire stud (depending on how the electrical/plumbing is routed)?.


Can I use a PVC cleanout plug in a Cast Iron Cleanout?

Another option would be to cut the pipe above and below the cleanout, and install a PVC Y-fitting with a cleanout cap using no-hub couplings like these:

I would think that drilling and/or sawing out the old cast iron cap is going to be a giant pain in the rear, and will be likely to damage the cleanout fitting to the point where it needs to be replaced anyway.

Make sure your cast iron stack is supported above before you cut it.


Just bought an electric car. Do I need a bigger panel?

If you have space alongside this panel (at least a full stud bay's worth to one side)...

If you have a full stud bay's worth of space to the left or right of this panel to mount another breaker panel, then mounting a second panel and using it as a subpanel is your best bet here.  A 24-space, 125A, main lug  Homeline subpanel (HOM2448L125PGC) is inexpensive, provides sufficient expansion space, and comes with a ground bar already fitted -- with this, a trio of 1AWG Al wires in a 2" rigid metal conduit nipple would connect a HOM2100 breaker + a LK125AN neutral lug on the neutral bar in the main panel to the main lugs in the subpanel, providing a 100A feed to the subpanel.

In this setup, the HOM2100 replaces one of the A/C breakers, and both A/C breakers move to the subpanel, with 10AWG pigtails through the conduit nipple connecting the hot wires from the A/C breakers to the existing wires out to the air conditioners.  The circuit to the car charger can then be run off a HOM220 breaker in the subpanel, and blank-out plates (HOMFP) installed in the empty spaces in the main panel.  The branch circuit neutrals would land on the neutral bar(s), while ground wires would land on the ground bar(s), and the green bonding screw would not be installed into the subpanel (or removed if it was installed at the factory).

If you don't have room for a subpanel

If there is no space available for a subpanel, an alternative option would be to use a HOMT220230 quadruplex breaker instead of one of the A/C breakers -- the A/C circuit would land on the two 30A poles, while the car charger circuit would then land on the two 20A poles.  This is less expensive than a subpanel, but does not provide any expansion room, unlike the subpanel option -- I'd favor the subpanel in your case considering how full your main panel is.


Installing wall mount light fixture - what to do with ground wire

I would simply coil it up neatly and not cut it off.   Who knows, you might decide to install it "wired" sometime down the road.

Your plug being 2-prong (no ground), I would still be tempted to ground it.


How can I identify my bathroom tub faucet pressure valve?

Shut of the hot and cold supply to the shower. Turn the valve to verify that the shut off are stopping the water. Remove the screws that retain the valve. Bring it with you to your local home center or hardware store. Most stores that I have been in have a catalog that allows you to match your part to pictures in the book.


I would frame it like a heavy-duty wall. Each side beam needs to support 2000 lbs. I calculate that three 2 x 6's are required on each side.

16 inch spacing of joists should be sufficient, use 12" to be more conservative.

And if you want it to be really strong, put plywood on both sides.

And I agree with Ecnerwal's comment, this thing will be a dangerous beast.


What features should I look for in a small wooden shed for tool storage?

Things I know about sheds ...

Sheds need a proper base.
Things stored in them will rust (your freezer will too).
Sheds need a proper base.
Wooden sheds have an expected lifetime of about 10 years.
Sheds need a proper base.
Sheds blowing down isn't a big problem for sheds in typical UK gardens.
Sheds need a proper base.
Wooden sheds are probably easiest to hammer nails into.
Sheds need a proper base.
You will want to hammer nails into your shed. Things hang on nails.
The floor will rot because your lawnmower drips water onto it.
Sheds last longer if carefully maintained.
You will neglect your shed and it will gradually collapse.
All sheds are too small because you fill them with precious stuff that metamorphoses into
unidentifiable junk.

A good way to decide on sheds is to look at ones that have been standing on display in garden-centres for a few years. Look for broken handles, misaligned doors, water stains etc.


Can I tighten unused terminal screws on my outlets?

As far as snuggling the screws down there will be no problem in doing this. I would put the wire under the screw or clamp and a couple of wraps of electrical tape. Back stabs are the #1 failure point in wiring in the US.  I would say failing Back stabs cause over 90% of the wiring failures since you are doing this save yourself some time and use the screw terminals or you may end up like so many others that ask why are 1/2 of outlets in my room not working.


Can I use free denim insulation that got wet outdoors?

Is it safe for my health to use?
Probably healthier than some options. It's a natural cotton fiber and if made AS insulation (as opposed to someone just shredding old jeans), it is treated with boric acid (Borax) as a mold and pest repellent as well as making it flame retardant.
Is there any cleaning I should do prior to using it?
No, absolutely not! It takes a LONG time to dry out if it gets wet.
Is denim insulation washable?
Again, NO!
Is it significantly less effective due to its age?
Probably not, but we don't know it's age. Cotton fibers do break down.


Since the bulb was mounted under the wiring, over the years the heat from the bulb has baked the insulation on the wires.

It may have been overbulbed (new word, I called it) meaning a 100 watt instead of a 60 or 75 watt. This would generate more heat than it was designed for and cause the fixture to fail.

Good luck!


How can I repair a Whirpool washing machine that spins but doesn't agitate?

I'm not sure if you can buy parts for the transmission or if you'd even be able to repair it to working order anyway. Being that it's a $300 assembly, isn't it new washer time? If you can't find individual parts for the transmission, the point is moot. I had one with a bad main bearing; it would agitate but couldn't spin under load. I'll be the first to admit that I'm just a parts swapper; entirely disassembling a washing machine would not make me any money and would probably optionally cost you the same, in lost time (and more parts when it breaks again next year; you'd still have an old washer).


If you get hum in audio electronics, it's almost certainly not the result of a poor electrical system ground. In fact, if your electrical system grounding conductors were all well-bonded but not grounded at all, your stereo would still be perfectly happy.

There are several much more likely potential sources for hum, mostly due to defective power supply filtering capacitors or power supply decoupling capacitors, "ground loops", capacitive, inductive, or common impedance coupling. Unfortunately, isolating the cause and curing it can be an adventure in debugging and diagnosis.

Older audio gear may have electrolytic or tantalum capacitors that have aged and dried out, or they may simply have failed, which reduces their capacitance and increases 60 Hz or 120Hz ripple in an audio component's power supply, causing increased hum. If your power amplifier or receiver creates hum in your speakers all by itself with no inputs attached or the input selector on an unused input, this can be the cause.

Ground loops are created when there is more than one ground path from device A to device B. The multiple paths form a loop, topologically speaking, hence the name. A ground loop is like a 1-turn transformer, and can couple stray magnetic fields from power conductors (or power transformers) at the 60Hz AC power frequency, which then results in a 60Hz current and voltage induced around the ground loop, which can impress itself on the "ground" of the unbalanced signal inputs in one of the devices, which you hear as hum. Ground loops can be difficult to deal with. Unplugging audio cables until the hum ceases, then replugging them one by one can point to a culprit ground loop.

Inductive (or magnetic field) coupling can occur between the magnetic fields of large power transformers (usually found in high power amplifiers) and sensitive magnetic devices like phonograph cartridges, magnetic tape heads, etc. This is why expensive audio gear will often have toroidal power transformers, which result in less stray magnetic fields and less likelihood of magnetic coupling.

Capacitive (or electric field) coupling can occur between high voltage waveforms (like 120V power line) and high impedance signal nodes (like the inputs of preamplifiers and even power amplifiers).

Capacitive and magnetic coupling is the reason quality electronics is packaged in metallic packages: a metallic conductive enclosure will act to prevent electric and magnetic fields from entering the enclosure (the Faraday effect)  causing undesired coupling to sensitive signals. You can easily diagnose electric and magnetic coupling by physically separating audio components. The hum will decrease with increased separation.

Common impedance coupling occurs when an interfering signal (like AC power currents) flow in an impedance shared with another signal circuit, perhaps because of a small-gauge or poorly manufactured powerbar power cord shared by a large power amplifier and a preamplifier. Connecting large power amplifiers on their own circuit, or with their own large-gauge power cord into a different receptacle on the same circuit can benefit an audio installation suffering from common impedance coupling. Making sure the receptacle powering your audio equipment is the first on a circuit run from the electrical panel, and that the run is as short as possible, and no other appliances are on this circuit can also help.

Finally, making sure that the audio cables connecting your audio components are high quality, with good ground shield coverage, can minimize inductive and capacitive coupling to the signal conductors. Make sure that the connectors make good "ground" contact and are not oxidized or corroded (that's why the better ones are gold plated), so that the cable shields can be effective.

Whew. That's a long answer, and my fingers are cramping up. Hope it helps.


What is the difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench?

Most driver bit sets come with a 1/4" square drive adapter (my small Milwaukee set also came with a 3/8" drive as well, though I don't know if that's common).  With that one bit, your driver is instantly almost exactly the same as a 1/4" impact wrench.  You'd have to look at torque specs to see if the models you're considering are comparable, but I bet they are.  Those little impact drivers have come a long way -- battery life is great and the torque is hard to believe.

I'd only consider a square drive impact wrench for heavier automotive (or other mechanical) use, and only in a larger size like 1/2" so it can provide some real help in removing tough fasteners.


You most likely have a bad connection of the breaker to the sub-panel bus bar or a loose terminal somewhere. It could POSSIBLY be a bad pole on the 50A breaker, but that's fairly rare in comparison. You MUST address this immediately by the way, because it's a fire waiting to happen.


Water rising in my second sump pit but not the first

water under a foundation is entirely unpredictable.  its governed by rainfall, tmemperature, soil moisture level, slope, etc.  there is absolutely no reason to worry if the pumps are running properly and doing there job, as there is no way to solve the problem (if there is indeed one) without just randomly trying different changes to any of the above.  this is all predicated on the fact that both pumps have been checked and are working fine.  if not, start there.


The plastic is highly insulated. Taking ABS as an example, the dielectric breakdown is in the range of 15kV/mm, meaning (in theory) that 10µm of ABS can separate 120VAC leads without risking conduction.

In short, it should not present a safety hazard. If you really feel it's necessary, you can bend that portion back up under the screw head, though.


Using a three-wire cable across two breakers

DANGER!
This is totally wrong. You have 2 pairs of 1/2-size breakers - a.k.a., "double stuff" or "tandem". If you measure voltage between black and red (i.e., between a pair of hots) you will find 0V instead of 240V. If this was done by an actual licensed electrician, he should have his license revoked. If it was done by a handyman-acting-as-electrician, this is why most places don't allow that.
Note that this would be perfectly fine with two separate cables - i.e., each breaker getting its own black & white wires. But sharing (MWBC) only works if the pair of breakers are (a) on opposite poles/legs so that you get 240V between the hots and (b) the breakers are physically paired (handle tie or double-breaker) like the 40A pair across from these breakers.
And now for the really crazy part. The usual reason to go for 1/2 size breakers is because you don't have enough space to put full size breakers. But you have more space right below above (picture is upside down, or panel is upside down) the new breakers! You could easily have 2 pairs (i.e., 2 double breakers) of 15A full-size breakers and everything would be just fine.
There is actually one other alternative. A quadplex breaker:

The beauty of a quadplex is that the inner and outer pairs each function like a traditional double breaker. Red and black to the outer breakers + white neutral. Red and black to the inner breakers + white neutral. Done.
Difference in cost between 1 quadplex and 2 tandem breakers at Home Depot? Less than $11. Probably even less of a difference at an electrical supply house.


water coming out of bathroom faucet when I turn on my kitchen faucet

that's weird.  Only thing that makes sense is that your faucet needs new washers or seals.  The water pressure could actually be making a tighter seal.  When you loose water pressure it leaks.  Some times its easier just to replace faucet.


Fixtures are grounded to protect one from getting shocked if there is a short or fault in the fixture. The ground wasn't connected properly, according to you, so you got shocked because of some problem. Now that the ground is properly connected, you shouldn't get shocked but the problem still exists and must be fixed. Examine the fixture for frayed wires, cracked insulation. Be careful if you're up on a ladder and make sure to turn off the power. If you don't feel comfortable examining it, just replace it.


How can I insulate the floor to prevent sound from travelling through it?

Don't mean to be a jerk, but I would get a (white) noise maker. Its a simple, practical solution for an apartment.


How to check a Quick connect control power transformer is working?

Entirely normal.

On the input side, 240VAC (at least in US residential wiring) is center-tapped to yield two 120V legs relative to ground.. These are out of phase to each other, so if you use a phase-to-phase connection you get the full 240 relative to each other but if you use either phase relative to ground it's 120VAC. That's an easy way to make both voltages available for use in the home.

On the output side: Unless there is a reference connection tying one side of the transformer to ground, it is a completely ungrounded, "floating", circuit -- effectively, what you have there is an isolation transformer. Without a ground connection, there is no circuit through ground and hence no voltage, just as you don't read voltage when one of the probes is in mid-air. If you did ground one side, of course, that side would read 0 volts and the other would read as hot relative to ground.

Now you'll ask what the voltage relative to the incoming 220V should be. Without a ground on the output side that too is 0V since there's no circuit. With the output grounded, the result is going to depend on how much phase delay the transformer has introduced -- it's a big inductor, after all.


How to figure out wire types while replacing old switches with new ones

You may be out of luck. Mechanical switches don't need a neutral. Electronic gizmos generally do.

The black wire that is permanently hot connects to BK
The black wire that is switched hot (goes to load e.g. lamp) connects to RD
The white wire that is missing Connor spotted connects to WH
Nothing connects to YL/RD (that is only for 3-way switches).
A pigtail from the ground wire connects to the green terminal screw.

Worst case: You might need to run new wiring to the switches. That might mean opening up the walls.


When splicing neutral wires in junction boxes, can I use white electrical tape?

Tape is not a thing for splices.  You should not be using tape as your primary way to splice, period.  That is illegal, unsafe and will get all your work flagged by the inspector.  Since you say you are in the USA, wire-nuts and splice blocks are readily available and dirt cheap, though you can solder if you really want to.

However, the solder method you want to use is not allowed inside conduit or conduit bodies, and if you do it inside a junction box, you still need to leave 6-8" of tail.  Part of your wire will be a stiff stick, so it'll be hard to stuff into the box.  4-11/16 boxes will help, those are much cheaper at real electrical supply.

Also, as far as taping after the solder -- that is not an afterthought.  It is complicated!  Electrical-grade soldering is serious business, and not least is the fairly complicated taping of insulation, that involves both friction tape and electrical tape.  You'd need to find an olllld timer that worked on K&T to educate you.

Shrink wrap might be a viable approach, but watch out for sharp points that wear and puncture the shrink wrap.  Part of the friction tape's job is to remove all possibility of that.

In any case I wouldn't depend too much on NASA guidance in that most of their vehicles are single use. I would wire the way NASA's facilities department wires their boring old office buildings. Call them up, they'd be gobsmacked that anyone cares about what they do.

That is not to say there's never a reason to use tape.  If you solder, it's an i,portant part of splicing, and you must do hots and neutrals.  Some people also use tape to over-wrap wire nuts to "keep them on", but they need to get better nuts and use the right size!  Older (20 year old) nuts are not nearly as good as today's.  Exception: nuts capping off a single wire need to be taped or they will fall off.

Work must be neat, workmanlike and consistent within your installation.  Nobody ever got fired for using black for everything. However that can make the wiring rather difficult to understand, which is why I own 10 colors of electrical tape.

By "consistent within your installation" I mean that if the previous work used colors a particular way, continue doing that if you are able.  If unable, use what you have, but make it plain you are doing that.

Do not use bad tape simply to get a color.  By "bad" I mean low quality or tape which is not UL/CSA listed for use as electrical tape.


How do I get a cement patch in my basement to dry quickly in humid conditions?

Cement (and gypsum) compounds don't need to dry to harden. Water is one of the hardening reaction components. This is why when the weather is dry or windy you actually need to add water to the concrete surface to prevent it from over-evaporating.

I don't remember the exact numbers but something like after 8 hours the cement compound has passed through the initial reaction phase and started hardening and at that point you can add whatever amounts of water - it simply won't matter. I remember in a book on repairing wells I read about the underwater repair procedure - you pump out the water so open the damaged spot, replace the bad bricks, render the surface and then you have to keep the mortar out of the water for just several hours (I don't remember the exact number, something like in between 2 and 8) and after that time you can allow water to flood the repaired area and that's not a problem for mortar in any way.

So the bottom line is - you're trying exactly the opposite of the right thing. You need to keep hardening cement compound wet, not dry, so that is hardens well.


I wouldn't tear the bathroom wall apart... I'd tear the bedroom wall apart.  What you are experiencing is the noise traveling through mechanical connections to the wall (screwed to studs) and the noise from the water passing through thin copper pipe (probably the Type M pipe rather than the thicker Type L).

The only effective way I know of is to insulate that wall with Roxul Safe and Sound.  It's an insulation designed for noise.... and noise only.  It doesn't burn.  To go the added mile, use resilient channels before hanging the drywall.  The demo is probably a DIY, the installation of the Roxul is DIY, and the drywall.... call someone.  For a few hundred bucks the repair will disappear.

Edit:
Blown in insulation will not work... blown in is for warmth, not sound. It's the sound transfer you're trying to conquer. We once built a house and insulated the walls with thermal insulation, thinking just like you are. It didn't work. We had the type L pipe, all the plumbing was fastened with cushioned fasteners. We thought we had it knocked. Turned out, it was a waste of money.

If you truly want to fix it, just take down the drywall and do it the right way with the Roxul. Going into a wet wall from the bathroom side is a suicide mission. Building an offset wall will create a door opening that's 10"... with a door that has a 5" jamb. Then there's the carpet... or other flooring surface. It sounds like a difficult job, but it's probably only one weekend.

Otherwise, just buy your son some foam ear plugs at Costco and call it a day.


EMT or PVC Conduit For Exterior Above Ground Electrical Run

There are a few things you need to consider before running a long feeder and it seems you have at least given it some thought about method and materials.

First you say:

  I am planning on running conduit along the exterior of my home to the
  wall nearest the garage.

The word "to" bothers me. Shouldn't it be "on". In other words you can't just run conduit on the ground. Conduit has to meet code requirements on securing conduit to something that doesn't move. So it needs to be strapped onto something so it doesn't move freely. There are different strapping requirements for each type of conduit and these can be found in individual articles in Chapter 3 of the NEC.

Also NEC code only allows 360 degrees of bends before adding a pull box this can be a variety of different types of boxes, condulets, etc. You will find you will need to follow these rules when you are trying to pull conductors as a 90 requires around 10 time more resistance than a straight pull.

You can bury EMT but most contractors I know won't do it. Depending on the PH of your soil could cause the conduit to erode, sometime in less than a year. PVC is you best bet. Also most good contractors will always bury conduit at least 18" in the ground if possible. The reasoning being that anyone accidentally cutting a 60A underground circuit is not an experience anyone enjoys.

Good luck on your project and stay safe.


A major part of the problem is the way the condenser is mounted. They are normally set on a concrete pad a few feet away from the house to facilitate air flow around the unit. Your condenser is mounted on steel brackets bolted into your foundation so the vibration, which every unit has, is transmitted right into your house. Check to see if there are any type of vibration mounts between the condenser and the brackets. Also check to make sure the foam or rubber pipe insulation completely covers the pipes.


GFCIs trip when the incoming "hot" current does not return on the neutral line. This situation could arise due to:

normal operation of an inductive device (like a motor, such as you would find in a fan or refrigerator). These devices shouldn't be on a GFCI.
A neutral / ground fault. This would be due to a defect in the wiring or an appliance.
An electric path to ground through something else, like a person. This is the primary purpose of a GFCI and the reason they're required in wet locations: to save your life!

An over-current condition should not cause the GFCI to trip. (Although it might trip the circuit breaker. Circuit breakers have entirely different purposes and detect a different category of problems.)

Note also that you can have a GFCI on a circuit without the entire circuit being protected by the GFCI outlet. Anything attached to the "load" side (e.g. downstream) of the GFCI outlet will be protected. Anything on the "line" side (e.g. upstream) will not affect the GFCI outlet.

To find out exactly where the problem is, it would be helpful to know if the GFCI outlet trips immediately after you reset it, when any device is turned on, or when a particular device is turned on.


Is there a way to drill a 1"-diameter hole through 1/8"-thick steel using a standard cordless power drill?

Using a holesaw in steel that's more than about 1/16" thick can be frustrating.  The bits wear out fast, and it really likes to bind.  I've had better luck using a step drill bit, like   this one from Harbor Freight.


Mini Fridge thermostat turns on/off doesn't cool

Throw it away and go buy another, they cost more to fix than to replace.


How to remove wire from insert connector in recessed light fixture

If you were to detach the connector from the group retainer by releasing the tabs you might find a wire release tab or slot on the connector. Otherwise...

Try twisting the wire as you pull. Sometimes they'll sort of screw out with a bit of effort. Remove the damaged portion of the wire and re-strip before using it elsewhere.

Cut the wire and re-strip it. Leave a stub on the connector to which you could reconnect later, or which you can cap or tape to insulate the exposed wire. (You could also just loop it back into the same connector to secure and insulate it.)


Electrical Question about a 100 amp sub-panel to a 100 amp sub panel in my out-building

I'm with Kris. A 100A breakers lugs are sized for a #4 through a 1/0 which is one size larger than the required #1 aluminum. I guess what you are saying is that you have run an over sized feeder.

Since you have already run the feeder you might need to reduce the conductor to fit the breaker lugs using an insulated butt splice, like the picture, inside the panel.

Good Luck


Doesn't look like mold to me but hard to be sure... If you're sure it's a small amount, and not the tip of the iceberg it's certainly DIY'able.  Diluted bleach works well as a treatment. Wear a respirator, remove as much as you can and then spray liberally with diluted bleach.  Ought to take care of it...

The way it's running out of the seam it looks more like mastic or something to me but I don't think a little bleach is going to hurt you either way for peace of mind.


What should I place at the bottom of my couch to prevent miscellaneous items from going under it?

I think the most common solution is to just let stuff slip under your couch and move couch every once in a while and pick up the stuff.

If you want to get fancy you can get some metal "L"s from the big box around you and screw them to the bottom of the couch to create a "crap barrier".  This would take a couple of cuts and 4-5 screws per "L".  $10-15 and 20 minutes.  If you want to get really fancy you go to the nearest fabric store and find a fabric and possibly padding (so padding first then fabric) and then staple these over the L brackets.

In the end though I feel like this advice may give you a false sense of under couch security.  Stuff is still going to find its way under there no matter what you do.


Is this electricity box near shower dangerous?

In general this is a bad idea in large part because metal drains cause you to be a conductor to ground and water provides various ways for the exposed wire to make contact with you. However if the junction were grounded AND the ground were protected with GFCI then this would pass as safe. Most code still doesn't allow you to have outputs or junctions near running water that are not GFCI.

If you rewire simply don't expose a junction (that includes any broken wire in the walls) near the shower. You can pass insulated wire within the shower facing walls however.

I'm going to guess this junction was on purpose to provide either power for a shower heater or for outlets but since was covered up.


How to remove a screw from electrical box?

The best way to get it out is muscle. Not much else.  Use a vice grip type plier to get it out.  If it breaks off go to the other side.   Some people say tighten it up into a drill and use the drill to get it out.  When you get it out then re-tap the screw hole.  In the U.S. electrical boxes are 6/32 and most DIY's and electrical wholesalers sell taps for this reason.  Good Luck.


In my experience there are several common sources of sound caused by the wind at a window.

Banging screen. The screen is loose and the wind rattles it back and forth in the frame. To test, removed it and see if the noise goes away. To fix, put something in the track to hold the screen tight. Just about anything will work including a stick, or a piece of foam, such as a piece of door weather sealing foam
Banging glass / the window slider. Very similar to the screen issue but for the opening side of the window, especially for a slider window. You don't want to remove it to test like the screen but you can test with the fix noted for the screen. Shim it tight and see if the noise changes
Whistling. This is usually about the shape of the house or a part of it, which can be the edge of the window frame or trim. You might need to go outside to investigate and narrow down the source. Likely sources include anything with a sharp edge (think of blowing over the lip of a bottle as a musical instrument). Changing the shape of the edge will change the sound until its gone. Use something appropriate, whether it is a new piece of trim, sanding the edge, or so on


How can I repair some broken patio stones?

There are epoxy products that can be used to repair stone, such as this one

This will work to glue the seams of the big chunks back in place. While it could be used to fill other breaks or gaps, it probably will not look very attractive.

Also, as DA01 says in his comment, the overhang makes this a very vulnerable area. Usually stones which overhang have a thicker dimension.

There is not too much you can do unless you want to put a facing under the overhang to help support it, a fairly big job involving cutting strips of matching stone.  You could watch for the beginnings of cracks near the edges and fill them with an outdoor epoxy based material. This will reduce the chance that water gets in them and freezes, which leads to major cracking.

You could also tread lightly on the edges.


No water flow after closing and reopening shutoff valve

I have found on old valves the valve stem separates from the gate. they close fine but then it feels like it is opening but is broke.
You will probably need to turn the water to the house off , bleed the pressure off and remove the valve and install a new one.


300 ft Ethernet run parallel to 120v circuit

Since the electrical wire is in metal conduit, I would have no fear of interference. Just do not attach the ethernet to the metal conduit, as you are not allowed to use electrical conduit as a hanger for anything.

Another factor:  Most plastics do not like UV light, which the sun emits in great quantity.  This could be a serious problem for the sheath on your ethernet cable, depending on placement. Cable rated for outdoors or for UV exposure will last longer, but will still fail in direct sunlight.

(I think, due to your concerns about interference, you wouldn't think to put the ethernet inside conduit carrying 120/240/480V power cables.  But just for reference, that is not allowed unless you use transformers to step down the AC voltage significantly, which would not work unless your loads were quite small.)


Adding C-Wire for Nest to Triple Aquastat Relay L8148J

You should check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZJ2tch3_oc.  The B2 connector is the common connection for the 24V circuit of this relay.  It's based on the diagram for L8148J, so it may be not apply to the L8148E.


Is the gauge of a circuit a function of the draw, or a function of the distance?

Building wiring must be breaker protected

The first rule is that wire gauge must be sufficient to prevent wire overheating, in all conditions including fault conditions.   So as far as any permanently installed, in-wall wiring goes, 20+A = 10 AWG wire.  15+ amps = 12 AWG wire.  0-15 amps = 14 AWG wire.  You're not allowed to go smaller in in-wall-wiring.  Also, lighting must be derated 125%, so a 13A lighting circuit gets derated to 16.25A necessitating #12 wire.

And the circuit must be protected by breakers of appropriate sizes.  The only exception is the tap rules, which do in fact allow for luminaires, but don't allow smaller than #14 wire.

Mains wiring inside fixtures is also limited

Now, with 120V mains wiring, there's a bottom limit on inside-fixture wiring of 18 AWG.  That is the smallest wire size you'll see allowed.  So your 24 AWG tendrils down to individual lamps are a no-go.

Further, your plan is to fit C9/E17 sockets there.  It is inevitable that some "epsilon minus" type will stick 40 watt incandescents in there. You must design your fixture for that, or, use socket types which prevent this, or don't use sockets at all.  Which segues into...

Low voltage lighting is far less limited

If you want to dodge these design regulations, that's the way to go.  Obviously you will not be using incandescent lighting on low voltage DC, because the voltage drop will require thick wires.  But that means LED, and LEDs in low voltage configuration are so reliable they don't need sockets, which also solves the abovementioned "you must plan for idiots" problem.

So for instance you might build your horizontal festoon with something like C7/E9 sockets, or whatever... Then have tiny tendrils with a socket on one end, and a self-contained, hardwired LEDs+resistors on the other end.  Given that you want 7W light, that's about 1W of LED light, so 80ma on that tendril @12V or 40ma @24V.

Your festoon, on the other hand, would need to be appropriately thick to avoid voltage drop, since 12V is very, very sensitive to voltage drop.  It really depends on how many lights you have.  For the festoon, you could simply use a pre-made string of Christmas lights with the normal bulbs removed, and attached to 12V or 24V.


No toilet shut off valve in my NYC apartment

That's a valve that's lost its handle

What you are looking at is the shutoff valve.  You simply aren't recognizing it as such because it has lost the handle/knob that you normally turn to actuate the valve.

I would try using a pair of pliers to turn the valve for now, and talk to the landlord about getting it replaced (probably with a quarter-turn valve).


Risk from installing a "Nest" thermometer without shutting off home power?

Some systems are line-voltage in which case you could get a 120V or even 240V shock from the thermostat wiring.  I believe the Nest is designed for 24V systems.  It does seem a bit extreme to suggest turning off the power to your entire house.  I would probably settle with turning off the power to your furnace and then verifying with a non-contact voltage tester to ensure none of the wires are live.

On many thermostats, you can verify they are not getting power from the furnace by removing the batteries - if this display stays on, it's getting external power. If the display dies, then its not.

Always assume it's live until proven otherwise!


How can I check my generator to see if its ok?

You don't use it "in" your home so that solves the most direct safety bit. Then you avoid ever loaning that friend your tools ever again, since he both doesn't treat them right and is dishonest about it or he just doesn't know any better, either way it equals abused broken equipment.(Its very common.) I don't see how it could damage a stove other than severely voltage spiking the electronic controller bits in a very modern stove, but even those are generally tolerant of brownouts and small over voltages and none of it cares much about frequency.
Home stoves are most commonly on 50amp 240v circuits 50*240=12Kw I know my typical range the bake element is 2400w the broiler another 2400, small burners on high about 1500 and the large coils are about 2000-2200 which adds up past 6500 very fast.

Have a small engine shop check and tune the engine, fuel system, governor and such, or do it your self if you have the skill and tools.(this doesn't address the alternator half but with the exhaust being so hot it could be engine related)

Electrically: does it have a circuit breaker or fuses that need attention? Beyond that faults could be from burning the windings enamel insulation, brushes if it has mechanical brushes, shorting or high resistance(or both)caused by moisture or corrosion(rain, fog, damp storage, etc).
All you can really do without significant electrical training is to get it running and check the voltage unloaded, and then again while loaded (with a known calculated load, preferably resistive, not a motor) the standard range is 115-125v and 230-250v. I don't know the details of the that generator's windings, if it is 240 with a transformer for 120 or true 2 phase 120/240, or split phase just like mains power. In split phase neutral is attached to the center of the 240v windings to get 120v.

And if your multimeter has frequency and power factor options or you have a friend with an oscilloscope check that it is maintaining close to 60hz(56-64 ish loaded and unloaded) and that the power factor is above .95 while powering a pure resistive load.(a simple heater or 2 large stove elements)

Lastly as a safety note be very careful doing this with a cheap multimeter the sub $50 jobbers don't have correct fusing(despite the self "certification" on the label) the also don't inspire confidence in the tested value and won't read the true RMS power.


Looking for alternative to Lexan sheets for DIY or crafting projects

You could try ABS plastic sheets. In 1/4 inch thick panels is it very rugged and quite rigid. ABS drills very nice as well.

For a comparison look at these choices from Amazon:

ABS 12"x24"x0.236" Black - $12.20

LEXAN 12"x24"x0.250" Clear - $27.28


Three way wiring diagram for 2 switches (courtesy @tester101)

In this diagram, power enters from the left.  If the switches are clock faces, the common terminal is at 7, the two travelers are at 11 and 1 and ground is at 5.

Power flow:  Power enters left switch on black wire at 7, depending on switch setting, it leaves either on the black wire OR the red wire (This is the key to 3-ways: power can get to  the light by either switch, and can be turned off by either)

The power enters the right switch by either the red or the black.  It leaves the right switch on the black-tagged white wire at 7.  It then enters the light fixture(s) and returns to the neutral (white), back at the left switch location.

Fortunately, electrons move at the speed of light (nearly) and don't get dizzy.

There is another scenario where the power enters at the light and and the hot (black, ungrounded) is 'sent' to the common of one switch and the white(neutral) is 'sent through the light and down to the common of the other switch.  Both travelers still must traverse between the two switches.

In simplified form, two 'three-way' switches (SPDT) in schematic form (grounds omitted for clarity):


A well used traditional gate closer is very simply a weight on a length of rope (wire cable would be better for heavy gate) over a pulley. As the gate opens the weight is lifted. When the gate is released the weight pulls the gate shut. You can adjust the amount of weight to suit the gate. I've seen concrete blocks used or old brake discs. Anything heavy. Old sash window weights are good as they are slim.

Alternatively search for 'gate spring' on google. In the UK they are dirt cheap, you might need a few  but easy enough to fit.

hth


How to sister 2x4s on top of each other?

A lot depends on what you need these 2x4s to support - how much weight, what kinds of stresses. Supporting a storage area/attic is different from supporting the first floor of a 2-story house. Doing this for a 12' room is different from 50' across a whole house. Lots of variables, and this may well venture into "consult an engineer" territory.
But in theory, yes they could work - metal plates or plywood.
One important thing to keep in mind: a 2x8 is actually 1.5x7.25. a 2x4 is 1.5x3.5. So 2 2x4 is 1.5x7, which is 1/4" shorter. That may or may not matter for your intended use, particularly depending on whether this is replacing or extending existing 2x8s vs. new construction.


Inertia is the most powerful force in the universe
In other words, install the new door the exact same way as the old door. That should make installation a little easier (lock & hinges in same places as before) and, more importantly, will avoid complaints from neighbors or building management of "why did you change it?" You can't be accused of violating either local building code or the building's own rules if you closely mimic the previous configuration.
Since you are replacing the door yourself (or with help, but you and not the building management), I presume this is a condominium or similar "you own it" situation and not a rental apartment. If it is a rental, you should not be doing this at all. But assuming you own the apartment, there are often rules, for good reason, about anything that affects the common areas in any way - whether physically (like door swing) or even aesthetically (like door color). So your first step is to talk to the management company, condominium board of directors or whatever the equivalent is in your building. Ask them about:

Door swing
Fire rating requirements (they can vary by jurisdiction, but there will definitely be some requirement for any door that faces a common area)
Color or other aesthetic issues
Rules regarding windows, peepholes, etc.


Finding a switch for dining room ceiling wires

Many times if a owner wants to save $ up front we put a blank plat over the fixture location but there is normally a switch near by that wire is pulled to. If you don’t have a blank still pull any switches out and look for the unused conductors in the box. This might mean you need to purchase a single gang double switch but I have done this a few times.


What is "mud-jacked", and why is it not done in the UK?

Mudjacking is the process of pumping a water, dirt and cement mixture
  under a concrete slab in order to lift it.

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