Does a 240v water heater circuit require a neutral?

Confusion from failure to use marking tape
Yeah, I know.  Marking wires with electrical tape to indicate function seems like such a needless chore.  "I only need to understand it right now.  I will never be in here later troubleshooting!"  This of course ends up not working 1/4 as well as expected.   Some of the people who are marking-hostile write installation instructions.
Since UL approves installation instructions, I'm surprised they don't make the instructions follow Code.  Because in this case, Code sides with me.
It is illegal to use white as a hot.
However, if you are buying pre-manufactured cable, what you are allowed to do is use paint, tape, shrink tubing, etc. to re-color a white wire to be an appropriate hot color.
But it's mandatory.
So the most straightforward answer is to take your #8 supply cables, and after you're done stripping off the cable sheath to fit, go ahead and wrap the white wire with red electrical tape.

You can also use black, since there's no particular need with a water heater to match up phases.  A 240V circuit with black-black hot wires is perfectly fine.
If it were in conduit, that would be a different deal. Because individual wires are easy to swap, you're required to use the correct color in the first place - no remarking is allowed.
If you're absolutely militant about refusing to mark wires, then my only advice is to use /3+gnd cable (black red white) and just cap off neutral.  That would allow you to use one of the cables for a subpanel if the tankless heater doesn't work out.


How do I install wood shutters on a brick house?

For those interested, here's the process I ended up using:

Measure, level and mark boards, appropriately aligning the future holes with the mortar between bricks.
Drill pilot holes into the wood shutters, including a 1/4" countersink to cover the screw heads up with wood filler.

What I learned at this step: Unlike screwing wood to wood, where you can sink the screws into the wood easily without a countersink, when attaching wood to mortar, if you do not provide the countersink hole already and attempt to perform said action, you will strip the mortar and the screw will just spin and stay loose :(

Next, re-level shutters and mark the mortar with the masonry drill bit through the pilot holes. I found that only drilling the top two holes worked best for me. I'll get to why in a minute. An extra set of hands comes in handy here :)
Set the shutter down and drill the top two mortar holes completely.

What I learned at this step: Be sure to drill into the mortar enough to where the screw tip won't hit a dead-end (Most recommended a 1/16" or 1/4" of extra room beyond the screw tip). If you don't give a little extra space at the tip, you'll encounter a great deal of resistance, the screw will not go in all the way and you'll have to get the masonry bit out again.

Attach the shutter to the house using the top two holes.
Now, we'll finish the bottom two holes: with your masonry bit, drill into the mortar through the board.

What I learned at this step: I found this process to be the easiest for me, as my pilot holes didn't always match up completely when I attempted marking then drilling all four at the same time. Less margin of error on my part. But, this is became a personal preference. Decide for yourself.

Finish attaching the shutter to the mortar at the bottom with your screws.
Use wood filler to patch the holes, lightly sand filler.
Paint/stain/seal accordingly.

What I learned at this step: I had already applied a sealer to the back of the shutters before attaching them. I taped off my house using wide painter's tape after they were up and it saved me a huge headache of cleaning sealer off my house with mineral spirits.

Overall, I also learned:

I marked & drilled all of the pilot holes into the shutters at one time which saved me on having to switch between the masonry & wood drill bits. HINT: If you forget to take out the masonry bit and attempt to drill into wood, you very likely could start a friction fire! :D Haha!
Having two drills is a life-saver: I had my hammer drill set up with my masonry bit and my cordless drill had my Phillips bit in it ready for the screws.
Having a second pair of hands throughout the entire process was also a great deal of help.

Thanks for your help folks! I hope this little walk-through helps someone else, too!


How to sand, stain and seal wood filler in a knothole

How do I find out what sealant was used before?
The answer to that is as you'd guess... look for product packaging, ask the installer or builder, etc. If it was a prefinished floor it probably has a proprietary coating that includes aluminum oxide for hardness. In any case it probably doesn't matter. I'd simply use gloss urethane for this little patch.

What's the direction of the wood fibers (or grain)?
You're correct that it's technically parallel to the length of the board. Even though there appears to be a curve in the grain direction, that's mostly a result of the type of cut made in the board.

How do I stain the wood after sanding down the wood filler and the area immediately around it?
Find a dark walnut or other stain that matches the darkest part of the knothole, and use a small art brush or cotton swab to stain just the patch. Actually, you may find a very dark wood filler that doesn't require staining.

You want to simulate a knot, not try and hide it. Also, you should avoid sanding the existing finish. I'd approach this repair from a hole-only standpoint. Do your best to avoid disturbing the finish on the adjacent area, as it will be very difficult to hide. I'd go so far as to apply masking tape to the area to preserve it.

What grain of sand paper do I need to use for the sanding?
The "grit" you'll use depends on how you apply the patch. Ideally your putty knife will leave a fairly smooth surface. Finish with 120 and 180/220 before sealing.

Is there anything else that I need to know before starting?
Just to reiterate, seek to repair only the hole, and not the surrounding finished surface.

Will the hole deteriorate if I leave it as is?
That's hard to say, not knowing the use of the floor, but it's likely that the edge of the hole will eventually degrade due to foot traffic. However, you shouldn't see serious damage unless it's susceptible to table legs, etc.


It looks like you need to connect:

Red to the 'L' terminal (brown)
Black to the 'N' terminal (blue)
Green to the earth terminal (green / yellow)

Your wiring is the in old colour scheme and the socket is marked with the new (harmonised) colour scheme.

(By the way, from the photo, the existing wiring looks like it could be the (very) old rubber insulated type of cable, which you may well need to seriously think about replacing).


What are the most important things to check/do after buying a home?

After you have closed change all the locks.  You don't know who else the previous owner has given keys to over the years.


Is there a Dremel attachment for removing Gorilla Glue?

It is polyurethane. Much easier to slice than to grind, as it tends to get a bit gummy, and the things that you glue (e.g. wood) tend to be softer than the glue itself, meaning  that you are risking damaging the workpiece.

If you had to, I'd use a vibrating oscilating mini-saw on a nultifunction tool but I generally just use a razor.


What is this white powder coming out of my baseboard?

It looks like drywall dust. There were probably cuts made with a rotary tool which left dust inside the wall, and now it's working out, possibly due to air pressure in the wall from an HVAC duct or just environmental air surges.

I'd run a strong vacuum sealed against the joint with rags. That should pull most of it out, though you'll still probably see some residual dust for a while.


Stainless steel type and gauge for pizza oven

I build a lot of pizza ovens each year, steel and stainless.
I use 11 to 14 gauge(.120" to .075") in steel and always 16 gauge in stainless 304.

Warping occurs on the front panel where is the door opening, mostly the top part, just and iron angle inside where you doubt it could warp.  If the sheet is rounded or bent, it add strength to it so it never warps at the dome.  Hope it can help.


wiring a fan to an existing switch that also controls an outlet

You currently have two cables in the box. One is the power source, and has just a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a bare (ground) wire. The second cable has a black (hot), a red (hot), a white (neutral) and a bare (ground).

As currently wired, the incoming black is attached to the outgoing black and to the switch via a pigtail. This makes the unswitched half of the outlet always live and provides a hot connection to the switch. The red wire is attached to the other side of the switch and provides a switched hot to the second part of the outlet. The neutrals are connected together in the box and the white wire at the outlet itself covers both halves of the switch (only the hot side has separate connections).

Adding other switched lines is fairly straightforward (this assumes that you have sufficient amperage to cover the additional fan and light).

As you surmised, you need a three wire (plus ground) cable. The new white is connected to the existing whites. If you pick a triple switches with a common hot terminal (most are configured this way), just move the existing hot pigtail from the old switch to the common terminal on the new switch. This provides hot to all three switch units. Then attach the red wire for the outlet to one of the other switch terminals, and the new red (from the fan or light) to another switch terminal and the new black (light or fan) to the last terminal. You can swap these three wires to assign whichever switch unit you want to each device.

Connect all ground wires together.

You are good to go.

[I will try to add a diagram later if I have time.]


It turns out that the OP's problem was caused by a loose connection that slipped out when he attempted to fit the light fixture to its pole, as per his comment:

  Thank you guys for the help it turned out the black wires weren't touching they somehow slipped out when i pushed the light on the pole


Can I connect a tankless water heater with 3/4" connections to my 1/2" plumbing?

Yes, you can in most cases. Water heaters have 3/4" connections to allow for increased flow and pressure where it's needed and where the pipes are larger, but that doesn't mean your plumbing has to match. The heater will flow at the same rate (more or less) as a straight run of 1/2" pipe in your case. If anything, the heater will perform better at heating rise since flow is restricted by the pipes, extending time in the heater for each water parcel.

To be sure, read the specifications for the product you're interested in.


How to cover this gas line sticking out of the wall?

I think if you remove the plug and replace it with a flush plug, then spackle the crack around it and paint. It would (IMO) be less obtrusive than a cover.


Can I redirect airflow from AC to under the house?

Air conditioning works by moving heat from inside the house, to the outside.  If you dump the heat under the house, it will surely find its way back in.


How does the insulation value of multiple layers of insulation compare to a single layer of the same total thickness?

2*1x or 1*2x would be the same, but 2*1x with an air gap would be better than 2x by itself. Same principal as double pane glass; trapped air slows the transfer of heat.


GFCI in kids' room...good idea or not necessary?

What age are the kids?

Most kids have been surviving without GFCI protection for many decades now. But a GFCI has very few disadvantages other than adding a bit of cost.

On the other hand, once you go that far, the question does arise of whether their own room is the only place a problem might arise and whether you might as well invest in protecting the whole house.

In the end, this is a cost/benefit judgement call that only you can make.


Can concrete demo material be used as fill behind same project?

Sure, that's fine. The rubble will act as aggregate, and new concrete will bind the it all together into a monolithic mass. This was standard practice back in the day, in fact. And castle walls were built this way too. You'll be just fine; just try to smash the old steps into smaller rather than larger pieces.


I would add rebar on that end and not leave the new slab independent. I would get a mat and dig a little more dirt out build your 5 foot pour. Let the mat run by three feet and is ready for the next section of pour and lock them together. And do each pour this way til done. The slab will be somewhat as one pour. And finish each end as an expansion joint.


Can I move the main breaker box to inside a small bathroom?

According to National Electrical Code,  overcurrent protection cannot be in bathrooms. So no, you cannot put the panel in the bathroom.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection
Article 240 Overcurrent Protection
240.24 Location in or on Premises.
(E) Not Located in Bathrooms. In dwelling units, dormitories, and guest rooms or guest suites, overcurrent devices, other than supplementary overcurrent protection, shall not be located in bathrooms.


Can I replace broken clips in a recessed light fixture?

You should be able to replace the clips. They slide in from the inside and then get mooshed against the side to stay put. Just unmoosh the old ones, slide them out, and slide in the new ones.

Of course, that won't keep the new clips from busting on you.

Removing the cans is just as easy. Pop out the old clips, slip the can down through the hole, wiggle it sideways to pull the built-in box through, open that up and untwist the wires. You can then install whatever alternative can you'd like.

I recommend the Commercial Electric T91 LED disk light. It's a 6-in disk that can mount to a 4-in junction box that's at least 1-1/4 inches deep (or something reasonable like that). You should have no problem getting a good and sturdy 4 inch box. (It also screws into cans if you already have those.)

I'm getting ready to install 5 of those T91s in junction boxes on one side of a large room and 4 4-inch Halo LEDs in the 4-inch Halo remodel cans on the other side.


Where should I discharge my bathroom exhaust to?

I have a similar issue. The conclusion I have come to is that the shortest available route that is horizontal is probably best if you have to take account of cold climate and that a solid pipe if possible is even better. You will need to note the distance spec of your fan and go for more power if necessary.
If you have very cold winters you may have problems with steam condensing in a vertical pipe and dripping back into your bathroom. In any case the vent conduit should be covered with insulation.


Why are my outlets dead after replacing a light switch?

That "extra" wire was bundled with the incoming hot, so put it back with the incoming hot
As it turns out, that "extra" wire wasn't so extraneous after all as it was feeding power to the dining room light and kitchen outlet in question.  In order to get things back working again, you'll want to nut said "extra" wire in with the incoming always-hot to the box and a pigtail of wire going off to one brass screw on the light switch.  The remaining black wire, then, is the switched-hot going off to the laundry room light, and thus needs to land on the other brass screw on the light switch.


A draft stopper would probably work nicely, is not destructive, costs between $10 and $20, and stays in place even if you need to open the door:


How can I winterize windows with original trim from 1885 without ruining them?

You could fabricate a removable wooden frame that can be covered with the light plastic film. You could also use aluminum storm window framing but it may be cost prohibitive Make the frame slightly smaller than dimensions of the trimmed window opening. Cover the edges of the frame with weather strip to form a seal against the trim and to protect it from being scratched by the frame. Your window openings may no longer be square so each frame may be a custom fit to a specific window.


Kenmore Dryer gets warm but not enough to dry clothes

A dryer works by forcing air past a heating element, through the drum where the clothes are, and out a vent. If there are any restrictions in the air flow, not enough hot air will move through the system.
Let's take this dryer for example

The motor rotates the drum, which tumbles the cloths. It also spins the blower, which draws air in through the intake, through a heater (which could be gas, electric, etc.), through the clothes filled drum, past the lint screen, and eventually out the exhaust.

Notice after the air leaves the drum, it takes moisture and lint with it.  Some of the lint is caught by the lint screen, but not all of it.  Over time, lint can build up inside the dryer beyond the screen. If this lint is not cleared out, and is allowed to accumulate. The air flow through the entire system will be restricted.  Which means less hot air will move through the drum, and your clothes will not dry.

Another common problem, is flexible exhaust tubing.

This stuff doesn't have a smooth interior wall, which can often lead to lint accumulating in the pipe. This also leads to a restriction of air flow through the system, and again reduced drying.

Often times this flexible tubing is plastic, which is even worse since it's flammable. If for some reason the lint in the tube ignites, the tube itself will burn as well rather than containing the fire.

tl;dr
The easiest ways to insure proper drying are:

Clean lint screen after every use.
Remove lint from inside the dryer (see manufacturer documentation for schedule and procedure).
Remove lint from exhaust plumbing.


What are the pros and cons of soffit vents vs. roof vents?

Soffit

Pros

Vent easier to install
In heavy snow areas, not likely to be blocked

Cons

Soffits are designed for intake, so it's possible the air will be sucked back into the attic
Moist air can collect under the soffit

Roof

Pros

Heat and moisture want to rise
Keeps moisture away from walls, windows, siding

Cons

Can be blocked with heavy snow
More difficult install

I don't think it's that difficult to install a roof vent - this is a pretty good video


Can I use coaxial cable for a 600' network extension?

You can, but it's a VERY poor solution. You've crossed into my professional sphere of operations.

Also, if using coax, get extenders that are intended to work over coax - twisted pair and coax are quite different. Both types of converters are made.

Even if the mere thought terrifies the heck out of you, fiber is the sensible solution  to this problem. It should not be terrifying. I have done long connections (using various, often expensive, adapters and line extenders) on coax, twisted pair and fiber. All three technologies will do the distance with appropriate converters at the ends (speed won't be great on either of the copper solutions though - perhaps 30-40 Mbit in my experience at those distances. Less with crappier electronics.) Only one of them will work consistently in the real world where lighting happens - that one will also work at gigabit (1000Mbit) or faster speeds.

Been there, done that, have the burnt hardware to show for it. Fiber has permitted calm to prevail when thunderstorms visit.

In most cases, rather than getting a "fiber media converter" you will be better served and out less money for a gigabit (or 10 gigbit if you are really need-for-speedy) switch with SFP (SFP+ for 10 gig) slot or slots. Two low-cost switches, SFPs and 200 meters of pre-terminated fiber will probably cost less than a pair of copper line extenders - two factors - one a simple issue of scale - there's a limited market for copper line extenders, while there's a vast market for Ethernet switches, SFPs and fiber - the second is that there's some specialized electronic voodoo going on in a good line extender, while the fiber system is stock-simple. Getting paid for your voodoo in a small market makes for a high price tag.

As for wireless, how much chainsawing are you willing to do? You don't need a huge hole to get 5 GHz through at 600 feet - 5 feet wide and high will do. Technically, that big at the mid-point and less going to each end will do (google Fresnel zone if interested in the details.) Shooting through trees is iffy, but shooting through a hole in the trees is not. If TRYING to shoot through trees without clearing a hole, your odds improve at 900 MHz, but the equipment is less common and more expensive than 5 GHz stuff for point to point.

The cable should be bonded to the electrical ground at the service entrance of each building. This should help with, but does not consistently prevent, in my experience, damage from lighting-induced surges. If you get a direct strike, nothing really survives that, but that is not common. Fiber has the advantage of being completely electrically isolated, as well as being  much faster connection. It's the best network surge protection money can buy...

As for laying the cable (of whatever type) on the forest floor, good luck with that. Rodents with teeth... I'd strongly suggest looking for a possible 5 foot hole through the trees, and chainsaw half a dozen if needed to make it, rather than flaking cable on the ground. Try a bright light at one end and looking from the other end in the dark.


Cutting or drilling a hole in a mirror is something that takes either very specialized tools that are not easily available, or an EXTREME amount of luck. If you have a high speed rotary tool, like a Dremel, and a diamond encrusted bit made for grinding glass, you might get lucky. Do NOT breath the dust that comes off of that.


Clogged carburetor, 90% of the time, especially with modern gasoline/petrol.

You need fuel, air and spark for a gasoline engine to run. You have checked the air filter; you have changed the spark plug, but probably not actually verified spark (it's common to get a harmless but irritating shock while testing that, but you can avoid that with clever use of a bungee cord to hold the removed from engine, connected to wire spark plug's base against a metal part of the engine, rather than using your hand) and you have checked fuel flow from the tank - but if the fuel is not getting through the carburetor due to small ports and passages being clogged, it won't get into the air stream.

Another possibility is that the generator uses a manual choke, which most younger folks are not all that familiar with and may forget to operate as a result.

Rarer with modern controls/engines is a flooded (too much fuel) engine, where a few cranks with the throttle closed will help to clear out the excess fuel.


If you are handy at doing things and can see how things go together, it can be fixed, I believe without a locksmith.

There should be a set screw on the lever that can be tightened. The picture you have does not show that side of the lever, but if it did you may find it to be an allen (hex) set screw.

In some handle sets, the allen screw has a very long sharp point to dig into a specific spot on the shaft. Sometimes the shaft is not set in the proper orientation for that to happen and the handle gets loose not matter what is done

If there is no allen set screw, the handle is kept in place by circlips

on the back side (inside) of the interior backing plate. Remove the 4 screws, the backing plate will come off, you my find some loose parts in there still around the shaft, unless they are broken


How can I fix this moisture problem to stop mold growing?

First, I'd redirect the bathroom vent out of the home. Best place is on the gable side of the house, but straight out the roof would also work. Depending on how much condensation you're seeing, and where it travels after condensing, this could be the cause.

Then I'd do some detective work. Start removing the insulation on the other side of the mold. Look for signs of water damage and follow them back to their source. There could be lots of causes, including a leak in the roof, plumbing problem, a clogged hvac drain line, or condensation on uninsulated hvac ducts. Water can travel a long distance before it finally settles on a low spot, so search far and wide.


The guys at Plascon explained to me that bonding liquid gets the best penetration over other priming methods. I should probably replaster but since that's not affordable here's hoping for the best!


How can I tell how my hardwood floor is attached to my joists below, if there is no subfloor and no visible nails?

Generally, flooring is tongue & groove and nails are driven at an angle through the groove and into the subfloor/joist below. If the flooring is not T&G, then it would be face nailed. If you're not seeing nails from above, then the flooring is, most likely, T&G and nailed through the grooves.
It's possible that it was glued down, but from the age of the wood shown in your other question, this was probably put together before construction adhesive was a big item, so I'd consider it an unlikely option.
To remove the joist, I'd recommend a reciprocating saw (Sawzall™ is a brand name that's become generic for the type of tool I'm talking about), and run a combination/demolition blade (designed for cutting nail embedded wood) in the joint between the bottom of the flooring and the top of the joist. You'll end up cutting some of the joist and, unfortunately, some of the flooring, but the goal is simply to cut the nails connecting the two. Err toward cutting the joist since that's going into the garbage/fireplace. Once you've cut the joist away from the flooring above, one or two vertical cuts will allow you to remove the joist in a couple of pieces. If any nails remain protruding through the floor, attempt to pull them through or cut/grind them flush with the bottom of the flooring above.
Another option would be to use the Sawzall™ to cut the joist into short 4-12" lengths, then bang them sideways with a hammer to knock them loose from whatever is holding them to the floor above. Some of your pieces will just fall out/fly away when you hit them because there doesn't happen to be a nail into this particular piece, others will take several hits and/or some prying to get them off the nail above. The more termite eaten bits may just crumble and fall apart as you hit them. These will leave their nails intact and they'll need to be dealt with.
If the flooring was actually glued down, the wood (especially the more termite eaten bits) may split and break because the glue (whether construction adhesive or a modern PVA type glue) may well be stronger than the wood itself. If this is the case, break off whatever bits you can, then Sawzall™ as noted above or chisel/scrape the remaining bits away. If this is necessary, you'll want to scrape and sand all the old glue off so that you have a pretty flat, smooth surface on the bottom of the flooring so the new joist will seat nicely from below. Chunks left here will telegraph into uneven spots in the flooring above at worst, or make installing the new joist difficult and leave gaps that may lead to squeaking floors somewhere down the line.
When installing the new joist, I'd suggested "squeak fix" clips for screwing the flooring down to the joist from below so you're not messing up the finished surface above. You could use construction adhesive on the top of the joist to attach the flooring to it. "Glue & Screw" is a common recipe for squeak-free floor installation - generally between the joists and the plywood/OSB subfloor. While you don't have a subfloor, it would work here - just bear in mind that if you ever have to repair any of the flooring from above (and it appears that this area may be in an entryway so it's at a higher risk of long-term damage from water ingress/wet shoes), gluing down the finished floor will make it quite a nightmare to pull up any damaged sections of finished floor from above.


You got the right idea but all those wires and splices in a 4"box will be tough. If there's no slack, the existing cable will only be 2" into the box on each side. Think about using two 4" boxes and connect them together with a 2" nipple or piece of EMT. That will give you plenty of room to work with. You'll be running and splicing 14'2 with ground. Your drawing shows 14'3, I think you mean 14/2 with ground.


What sort of driver works the center screw in this hinge?

Sorry, but that is nothing more than a stripped out Phillips screw.

I'd say drilling it out is your easiest bet.


How do I install a GFCI receptacle with two hot wires and common neutral?

The first problem is that you may be using the wrong cable and breakers.  NEC calls for 2 20Amp small appliance circuits in the kitchen, to accomplish this you'll need to switch to 20Amp breakers and #12 wire.

The next problem. You'll have to pull new wire anyway, if you want to hook up GFCI receptacles. GFCI receptacles will not work properly with a shared neutral, you'll end up with nuisance tripping with a shared neutral.  GFCI receptacles work by monitoring the balance between hot and neutral, so if the neutral is shared the GFCI will not work properly.

To wire up the kitchen properly, you'll have to pull 2 new 12/2 cables from the breaker to the kitchen (all #14 wire on that circuit will have to be replaced). Then install 2 20Amp breakers, to supply the kitchen.  You'll install the GFCI's as the first receptacle on each circuit, which will protect all downstream receptacles.

You can share a neutral between 2 GFCI receptacles.  The catch is you'll have to pigtail the neutral to the receptacles, not use the neutral from the load side of the first GFCI to feed the second.

So you should be able to do something like this...

But not like this...

You'll then be able to use the load side of each receptacle to feed other devices, like this.


How do I install a coat rack on drywall over concrete?

TapCon concrete screws would be minimal damage to the concrete, so I'd consider them first.

However, if you must not damage the concrete, then it's more challenging.  My next recommendation would be to use a wooden backing that is vertically longer/higher than the coat rack.  If your coat rack is 20cm high where it contacts the wall, then make your wood backing something like 60cm high. Then you attach the wood backing with construction adhesive and small/shallow drywall anchors around the perimeter of the wood.  Then you paint the wood to match the wall, and finally attach the coat rack to the wood with two screws.

By spreading the load out over a larger area, you greatly reduce the stress at any of the individual fasteners.


How can I repair drywall to rehang a heavy rack in the same spot?

You are simply putting too much weight onto the drywall. Options:

Move it so that you are securing to studs in the wall
Remove drywall in large area and add blocks between studs. Redo drywall, patch, sand, paint, and rehang rack securing into blocking
Get a nice wide (atleast 1x4 or 1x6") board. Cut it long enough to be secured into at least two studs. Ideally, you want it longer by the same amount on each side of your wine rack. Place on wall and screw it into studs (2 screws per stud; 2.5" screws). You can hide the screws with either wood filler or paint depending on the look you prefer. Mount the rack to the board.

There is a possibility that you could hang it with new larger anchors, but we would need to know what exactly you are hanging and what anchoring you are using. If you used little 15lb picture frame kind of anchors, you can probably get the 75lb drywall screw-type anchors and reuse the holes, but not if the rack is going to be 100lbs when loaded.


Your P trap is put together backward! The bent piece (called the "outlet") is supposed to come off of the SHORT side of the trap. If you look, the side where your outlet is connected now in that picture has a long wider section at the top. THAT is where your tailpiece (the straight part coming down from the sink) is supposed to go, it's wider so that the tailpiece fits down in there before you then clamp around it with the tapered washer.


Ceramic tile on concrete with shrinkage cracks

your prep seems fine.  probably great.  i would do the following:

1)  fiberglass backer mesh on all surfaces.  since its concrete, probably a 2 oz is fine.  your fiber admixture makes the slab stronger, but a layer of sub-mortar mesh ensures that the tiles move together if the slab moves or cracks.  this way you have less chance of tile breakage.

2)  use a good quality polymer modifed mortar to ensure good adhesion.  flextile 50 or ceraflex 610 or even the 620

3)  on your joints, try to set your tiles up so that the grout doesn't land right at the expansion joint, but about an inch short of it.  that way your transition can actually span the joint instead of a tile or the tile grout.  if you aren't using transitions (ie the tile carries right through), then you can wax that little 1" strip of concrete before you lay the tile that laps the expansion joint.  this way if you do have movement in the slab, the tiles can slide on the lip and you wont get any breakage.


Can I ground junction box directly to panel?

If that wire nut comes loose it sounds like you could end up with not only a HOT BOX but perhaps HOT CONDUIT also.

I trust you can imagine the possibilities of misfortune that can result from that.

It is well worth whatever it takes to prevent that from happening.  What you want is to have a breaker trip instead.

Splicing ground wire is safe when done correctly.  But if your length simply can't reach or if the splice can't be made to fit inside the conduit, then the only option would be a new length of ground wire.

Call it cheap insurance.


How can I prevent the water from my neighbor's leaky gutter from entering my basement?

I guess the 'repair' solution for the neighbor's house didn't pan out.

You can use your friend's solution, you are just limited by how much room you have to the property line.  You just excavate to the frost line, attach an waterproof isolation layer to the house and extend it above the new pad.  Place some curbing forms and pour concrete.

Another method (even more expensive) is an exterior french drain with a full wall membrane

The interior french drain/sump pump combo will also work.  Unfortunately, you'll need to trench all 4 exterior walls with this method.

Recently, others on the site have used wall coatings (Dry-loc sealer) to stop small amounts of water intrusion.  YMMV.


How is expansion and contraction affected when screwing a solid wood floor to the subfloor?

This sounds like it's going to be a lovely floor!

Most modern solid wood flooring I've seen comes in narrow strips of 2-3" (~50-75mm), and is tongue and groove (T&G). (Heck, even your laminate flooring was T&G.) To install it, you nail through the bottom of the groove of the first piece against the wall, then lay down the second strip, bang it up tight against the first and nail through its groove. This locks all the pieces together, but each one is only held to the subfloor on one side. Expansion can move the wood from the nailed groove toward the unnailed tongue side. However, there's very little room for expansion because the pieces are pulled hard together by hammering them into place, then the flooring nailer is designed to give it one final whack in the right direction as the nail is driven home.

There will be some expansion in a floor like this, but since each strip is reasonably narrow, it will be minimal.

Your planks are 2-3 times wider, which means you'll have 2-3 times as much expansion per plank. You don't indicate if they're T&G or if they're flat sided. When you say you're going to screw them down, I'm envisioning that they're flat sided and that you're planning on screwing through the faces. In this scenario, what will happen is that they'll twist, warp, and split as they expand and contract. Not going to be a pretty result after a few years.

I'd suggest that instead, you'll want to nail through the edges to hide the nails. If you've already got the material on hand, consider getting a router and a T&G bit set. Route a tongue on one side and a groove on the other. Then, when you set the flooring, leave a small gap between each board and nail through the groove side.

I'd suggest doing a quick internet search for the expected expansion of oak. Depending on when you're installing (is it currently the wetter or drier part of the year), leave some gap to give you the approximate amount of spacing based on the expansion rate of oak in your width and thickness. You may want to make yourself some spacers (anything from a tongue milled on a board to a few nails that you can temporarily drive in to provide the spacing), then set the flooring as above.

If you look at old flooring (your pine/larch planks) you'll see that they were laid with some gap - it was for exactly this reason.

One final consideration - if you have modern HVAC, especially "AC" (air conditioning), that will help considerably to stabilize the humidity levels inside the house throughout the year and will help reduce the amount of expansion. If you do, you can likely reduce the gap you leave between the floor boards. YMMV.

If you cannot/will not make them T&G for installation, then I'd suggest that you'll need to predrill for each face screw. Once you've got a hole, with the bit still in the hole & spinning, rock the drill side-to-side (across the width of the board, not along the length) to make a bit of a slot instead of just a round hole. (Do this with the board on saw horses - you don't want to make a slot in the subfloor where the screw is going to hold down.) Then, when you screw the boards down, don't drive the screws completely tight, leave them just loose (the screws should be countersunk a bit to allow the heads to be flush or just slightly sunken). This will allow the boards to move a bit as they expand/contract and should help prevent warping/splitting. Again, YMMV depending on how much you slot the boards and this may vary from screw hole to screw hole.


Water pressure totally gone after turning off to repair

Option 1 - the valve (rarely operated) broke when operated and is not opening.

Option 2 - deposits, disturbed by closing the valve and draining the plumbing, have plugged the pipes.

For option 2, open whatever valves are nearest the valve, or open up unions and flush out whatever glop may be there if ANY water flows - and/or run a stiff wire into the pipe (not through valves, but if opened at unions.)

For option 1, the main valve will need to be replaced.

If there is absolutely no water flow at all, bet on option 1.


What are the "must do" tasks before winter hits?

Clean your gutters
Make sure your chimney is clean
Install storm windows
Empty the gas from your mower

and

Reverse ceiling fans


Can water siphon backwards through the main pressure regulator?

If you have a backflow preventer, aka a check valve, installed in the system, then the water will not siphon back. This could be installed near the pressure regulator or main shutoff inside your home. It's also possible for the municipality to install one near the meter.

A standard pressure reducing valve closes when the water pressure inside reaches a threshold. Once the inside pressure drops slightly, the valve opens, at which point a backflow is possible.


How to make outlet half-hot in this situation?

If there are just two 2-wire cables (excluding ground), it looks like this outlet and down-stream outlets are all switched, and no part of the outlets can be made always hot without new wiring.

To have a half switched outlet, you need either 3-wire cable coming from the switch (always hot/switched hot/neutral) or you need always hot line directly to the outlet box and then a switch loop controlling one half of the duplex.


Green residue on the joints of copper water pipes

The connection is leaking.  What more do you need?
There is water on the outside of the pipe.  It has been leaking for possibly decades and evaporating as quickly as it leaks.  The moisture, along with the solder and possibly flux, has corroded the outside of the pipe, leaving the characteristic green-blue color of dissolved copper.
More importantly, the leakage flow is verrry gradually eroding the sides of the small opening.  The opening is growing, the flow is growing, and eventually, it will start dripping and then pouring on everything below...
I've seen this in a pinhole leak in a copper 90 degree elbow.  The elbow had been installed for at least 30 years in the ceiling over the entrance hall.  The first visible symptom was water dripping from the ceiling light fixture.  When we opened the ceiling, there was an extremely fine mist coming from the pinhole.  All the nails and screws in the joist space were rusted out...


How do I repair a glass cooker hob (glass top stove)?

This apparently is for a smooth glass top on a stove. GE sells them, perhaps others now. Traditionally, the word is that these are generally replaced when cracked. A small chip on the edge may not be worth replacing the top (which is EXPENSIVE from what I've heard) until that crack chooses to propagate. The problem is, heat stresses in glass tend to turn small cracks into big ones.

You might ask the manufacturer, but I'll bet a large sum of money they have no interest in repair anyway. They want to sell you a new top.

The first solution I would think of is a high temperature silicon caulk. You can buy it in a tube, and it does come in black. I don't know how much it hardens though.

If not that, I would look for a high temperature epoxy. You can get colorants for epoxy.


How to drill larger holes in cabinets for larger ice maker tubing but leave something to snake with?

As I was typing my question I had a thought so I'm answering my own question.

My plan is to make a hole at the end of the tubing and tie some cable pulling line (polypropylene string) and snake that through the original holes by pulling out the old tubing.

Next I'll tape or hold down the string so it's away from the hole and drill a hole next to the original hole that's the right size, slightly overlapping the old hole. That will allow me to pass the string from the small hole to the larger one but keep the string far enough away from the drill to keep it from snagging on the bit.

Then I can tie the end of the stainless braided tubing to the line and pull it through.


What can I do to make my galvanized steel shed stronger?

In Florida, I have seen many sheds like the one in your picture further supported with cable or strap tie downs. Heavy galvanized eye bolts embedded in each side of the concrete slab. Then straps or cables attached to one eye bolt, up and over the roof and down to an eye bolt on the opposite side. Hope this helps, and hope you never need it.
You can get anchors similar to the ones pictured below at many home stores. They can be installed and then the slab poured over them for added strength.

Then steel cable or web tie downs can be fastened to the anchors. The web tie downs come in up to 50 foot lengths and steel cables in any length. They can go over the roof or attached to other structural points depending on the design of the shed.


If I see correctly, that your table legs are attached directly to the top with no apron at the top. That there is no rack bracing of any sort, short of the 1 1/2" by 3 1/2" faces and sides screwed together. The apron, when the legs are attached to it properly act as rack bracing to a great degree. Most table aprons are anywhere from 4 to 6" tall, although there is no hard and fast rule how tall it should be.

With a table that tall an 8" apron, properly attached would reduce wobble tremendously.

Moving it off the carpet would be a help too, since there is a 2X flat to the floor which does not allow the carpet to compress enough to give a solid setting. You could raise the bottom stretchers so the legs actually go to the floor, instead of on a 2X flat...


Can I feed a panel 200' away from a double pole 30 ampere breaker using 10 AWG copper conductors?

Maybe. Depends how sensitive the boat lift is to supply voltage - #10 copper at 14 amps for 200 feet is about 5.8% drop (or 7 volts) - nearly double what is normally designed for. But given 120V at the head end, that's still 113 volts, and many items are perfectly happy with 110-125V.

http://www.electrician2.com/calculators/vd_calculator.html

Is the 3 conductor #10 OUTDOOR wire? If it's indoor Romex, it cannot be used outside, even in conduit - the insulation is not rated for water, and all conduits outdoors are assumed to be wet (and the assumption is usually right.)

If you are buying wire, look at #4 or #6 Aluminum - it may well be a LOT cheaper than #6 or #8 copper, even if you have to buy conduit one size larger.

http://www.electrician2.com/calculators/rf_calculator.html

(not affiliated in any way, just one of the more useful/less-spammy sources of VD & Fill calculators - there are many others.)

When you are trenching for the power, consider dropping another conduit (even 1/2" could work) in case you decide later that you'd like WiFi at the dock area. No need to run wire now, but you'll kick yourself later if you don't, and it won't cost much to add.


How to fix a hole in the wall of a plastic shower/bathtub?

You can actually repair it. Generally make it dry. Sand down the surface around the effected areas. If there is an actual hole try using plywood to fill the hole. Apply fibreglass (you can buy strips of it) and coat each piece entirely in epoxy resin. Let it cure and repeat until there is a correct thickness. You can then sand that down as well to make it smooth and flush with the rest of the structure. You can paint it over with an epoxy based paint that will stick and not peel.


What is the name of the part used to fasten a pendant light cable to the ceiling circuitry case

I searched "pendant lamp strain relief" and found all kinds of them with various names, such as "cable gland", "hanging lamp bushing", etc. Use your Google Fu, which is like Kung Fu for the Internet of Things.


Why does my hot cooktop indicator light stay on after the cooktop is cool? The indicator light now wont turn off

To quote from Amana documentation:

  Many smoothtop models have indicator lights that may stay on after the
  burner has been turned off. The light will go off after the burner
  surface has cooled to a safe temperature. This is normal operation.


How to build a brick wall on the front of a CMU retaining wall?

Those aren't bricks. Those are CMUs (Concrete Masonry Units). They should have mortar in between the joints, but if not, it's likely filled with concrete. Is it cracked at all anywhere? If it's not cracked and it's been standing for 10 years, you're probably OK with it as is.

You could go ahead and build a brick wall in front of it as ChrisF points out, but that'd be a lot of work. I'd suggest alternative means of dressing up the existing wall:

face it with brick. Instead of full bricks, it's a thin brick that you apply like you would wall tile
face it with stone. There's some really great concrete based stone facing systems on the market today. Like the brick facing, you'd mortar it directly to the current wall
stain/paint it. Concrete stain and/or paint might be the best bang for the buck (and your back).
vines. Attach a wire mesh to the front. Plant vines above or below it and train them to use the mesh. This is the 'green' solution. ;)
wood. You could create an interesting trellis of some sorts and attach it to the face of the wall. Or even 'side' it with cedar.


Heat against laminate flooring causes condensation

I could imagine condensation forming on a cold floor but I would think less would form on top of your mat and dog bed.  They would not get as cold as the flooring and they would protect the floor beneath from collecting condensation.
I would think that if you were sweaty enough to soak your mat through you would notice that.  As re the pet bed - dogs don't sweat.
If moisture accumulates underneath things on the floor I think it is coming from beneath.  If there is not something on the floor it evaporates.  The bed or mat on top prevents it from evaporating into your house and it accumulates under there.
You could test this by taping a sheet of plastic wrap on the floor.  Tape around all 4 edges.  If moisture is coming up thru your floor the sheet will steam up.


From my personal experience I would suggest finding another place to store it. The big issue is excess humidity that will soften the glue especially on the older pieces. Veneers will start to lift and mold will grow. If you must store it in the basement run a dehumidifier year round, in the winter it most likely won't run often. In the summer it will likely run continuously. Unless you have a wood stove in the basement or live in a very dry area lack of humidity shouldn't be an issue.


Strange Roof Framing - Are these ridge supports temporary?

My house is framed similarly, mid 1950's.  No I would not remove any of the "temporary" supports you've pointed out.  Like you said, the vertical ones are to help support the ridge board and keep it from sagging.  I have those in my attic also, and have even doubled up on some of them.
The long diagonal board is to keep the gabled end of the roof, and the entire roof for that matter, from "racking" and folding over in the event of a strong winds.  Without that brace, the entire roof structure acts like a un-reinforced square.  With the brace, you turned that square into a triangle which is much resistant to folding over on itself.


How to prepare for a home service call from my DSL provider?

Since all the telephone companies were deregulated, the practice is to have a demarcation point (which I'm really surprised no one else has mentioned yet). Most homes built within the last 20 years or so will have one, which will be a box or jack (often marked "DEMARC") marking the change in responsibility between their network and your in-house wiring.

Presumably, being a DIY site, you'd like to avoid being charged $85+ for something you can fix yourself, so there are really two steps to take:

Isolate the problem to either their equipment or something before the demarc, or your in-house wiring
If after demarc, isolate the problem to a particular jack

Connect your modem to the demarc

Best thing to do is disconnect all your house wiring from the demarc (usually it plugs in) and connect your modem to it, then run speed tests or whatever else. You may also want to try a different cable just to eliminate that.

Plug your PC/laptop directly into the modem if you can, to eliminate router/wireless, or at least plug your PC directly into to the router.

If you still have the problem, then it's either a problem with the wiring before the demarc, or your modem (both of which are the company's responsibility), or something on your PC/router (which they'll charge you for, and off-topic for this site).

If your Demarc is outside, you'll have to be a bit more creative, but at least you can just have one jack connected at a time (see the in-house wiring bit below).

Create a Demarc

If you have a wire that comes in and is directly hardwired to the house wiring, I'd suggest cutting it off and putting a demarc jack in (like the second picture).

Use a second jack to hardwire the rest of your house to, then a regular station cord to patch between the two. This also lets you disconnect the patch cable in order to do work on in-house wiring without worrying about shorting anything out or shocking yourself.

In-house wiring

If it's working at the demarc, the you've isolated the problem to the house. This could be much harder to diagnose.

If you have the same number of wires as jacks, then you have centralized wiring. If not, you probably have a harder-to-diagnose mess.

The new way: Star topology

If you're lucky, each jack will have its own cord coming back to a central location, where they'll probably all be connected together. Detach all but the one you're using (this may take some trial and error) and try the modem there. If it works, then there's a fault in another wire and you can isolate that one-by-one, or just leave it disconnected. Repeat for another jack or two in the house.

The old way: Branching/Daisy-chaining

Technically for phones to work, the ring and tip wires just need to be connected in parallel. Many times the jacks are all or partially daisy-chained, or even worse, there are junction points hidden in the walls, in whatever way works to make the shortest wiring possible. One of the problems with this is if there's a fault, it's extremely hard to find.

You pretty much have to follow the same steps -- trying to isolate lines -- but you'll have to disconnect wiring in the boxes around the house (and hope there are no hidden junctions).  It may be simpler to just run a new jack and new wiring from the demarc to the spot you need, and leave everything else disconnected.


Should I use pilot holes to reduce chances of splitting the post?

pilot holes are almost always a good idea to prevent splitting.  They are just time consuming.  They can reduce the holding power of nails, so if you just have a few, I would use pilot holes and screws.


Identifying a Manual Gas Shutoff Valve for Water Heater

That is a plug type valve. It is your gas shut off. You need wrench to turn it. You can just turn off power by unplugging electrical cord and it will be okay. Do not leave it on. If the burner lights without water in tank you can damage tank.


What caused a stuck tub drain stopper linkage and how do I fix it?

My guess is that one of two things happened:

The vinegar refreshed the rubber seals and they have stuck
The bottom of the plunger didn't get hooked on the nub of the linkage that comes through the pipe

If you can get back to where the linkage comes in to the pipe, there should be a threaded collar that holds it in place. Pull that bad boy loose and the rod should pull out of the pipe. If you have enough room there, you can stick a small screwdriver in and try to push the plunger back up. You'll notice that there's probably a loop on the bottom of the plunger assembly. As mentioned in point #2 above, the nub of the linkage should extend through the drain pipe and into that loop. This will allow the linkage to move the plunger up and pull it back down.

If that all fails, you probably need to replace the drain pipe assembly. They're relatively common things to buy at hardware stores, but the replacement process can be challenging. If this makes you nervous beyond your capabilities, I suggest calling a plumber.


Make sure the gasket that the flapper rests on is perfectly clean.  Any grit or sediment on it can prevent the flapper from making a good seal.
Check the chain that runs from the handle assembly to the flapper.  If it's taut when the flapper is down, it may be holding the flapper slightly away from the gasket, again preventing a good seal.

If that doesn't work, it may be time to replace the whole flush assembly


Can a grounding rod be connected to service neutral only?

The grounding electrode can be connected at the service drop. It's kind of unconventional, but it is fine.

Here is an excellent graphic from Mike Holt. Keep in mind, most areas now disallow connection inside a meter can.

©Mike Holt


Why did part of my wall not absorb my paint?

You know, you could just get the painter to draw a stylized signature at the bottom right corner, and get it published in art books!  But I gather that's not your goal with the room.

The three keystones to getting good paint performance are:

Prep: Surface roughness

Paint will not stick to mirror glass. The surface is too smooth.  This can also be a problem with any glossy paint surface, because it achieves gloss via smoothness. But flat surfaces can have this problem too.

The curative is what I call a scuff-sand - which is nothing like proper sanding, but a simple swish with very fine sandpaper or better, a scrub with e.g. green Scotchbrite pads, to induce a microscopically rough surface.

It is not the goal of scuff-sand to blow through any layers, so it helps to be especially careful around corners.  Being gentle with scuff-sanding also assures you won't cross paths with any lead paint.

Prep: Cleanliness (of grease, oil, salts, and other contaminants)

A variety of substances will either repel paint or react with it to alter or degrade the paint.  Grease and oil will certainly do a job on you. So will a variety of soluble salts. Really any material that isn't hard, fully stabilized old paint.

The best curative here is to wash the surfaces with appropriate materials: soap and water for common household walls, solvent for oils and greases, and finish with a 2-cloth wipedown using a solvent compatible with your paint - I prefer diluent (thinner as appropriate for that paint), but some advanced paint systems with $75/gal. diluent make a much cheaper washdown solvent.

Coatings: Primer

If you finish prep with one surface type that is the same throughout (e.g. the old topcoat that you didn't blow through while scuff sanding), then you may be able to skip this step.  However, if your surface is unequal in any way, that inequality will print-through the topcoat.  That is just a fact of life.

You use primer to render the surface equal in all respects, or reasonably close to equal where color is concerned.

People often look for a product in a can that will do the "prep" phases of work for them.  To fill this need, I have considered selling cans filled with Scotchbrite pads! But I don't think that's what  they have in mind :) Seriously, there isn't really any such thing.  Paint is not magic.  And to the extent paint ever was magic, it isn't anymore thanks to the low-VOC laws.  That's probably for the better anyway, as it makes paint less toxic.


How level is 'good enough' for a 8x14' shed's gravel foundation?

I've built and owned several sheds on similar bases. What you'll find is that the weight of the shed and the vibration of use tends to settle the foundation (floor framing) into the soil a bit, eliminating slight wiggles in the surface.
The key is that you have a good average, and that it's level in both directions. Obviously most of the weight rests on the perimeter, so you want to focus on that. Make sure there aren't any areas that seem weak, like they'll slough out when the shed is set.
Once it's set and has a chance to settle a bit, but before you load it up with human junk, check the floor in both directions. If it's out more than say 1/2" total in either direction (my standard; yours may differ), consider levering it up and making adjustments. That's not as difficult as it may sound if you use adequate levers and suitable fulcrums. Either rake a bit of soil out from under the high side, or fling a bit more under the low side.


Will double-track shelving work for a computer desk?

Put your computer on the floor, where it belongs. Same with the UPS. This opens up your desk space and muffles the noise.

The weight of LCD monitors and a printer won't be as much of a strain.

The strength of a shelf like this will depend a lot on how you attach it to the wall. Anchors in drywall hold a lot, but when they fail they leave an ugly hole and a big mess. Screwing directly in to a stud helps. Also, the track, the more the load appears as a vertical force, instead of a force trying pull the screw out of the wall. That's more reliable.

If you're not sure if your setup is strong enough, one way to approach the problem is to underbuild it, test it, then add on. So, you could put up a single track and load it with the full weight of the desk and equipment. If it holds, then put in the second rack, more screws, etc.


Do I need to replace this sub floor after bad tub installation?

Yes, it appears that you need a need new sub-flooring. Once the old tub is removed clear out all the old rotted material down to solid wood.  If necessary let the area  dry for a day or so.  Then as necessary fill voids and holes with shims and filler strips. Overlay the entire area with new quality heavy sub-flooring. Then set the new tub.


Wiring an old dryer without a white ground wire?

The middle nut on the terminal board is the neutral. You can see the two white wires connected to it. You and also see the jumper going from the neutral to the housing. If you're going to go to a four prong plug, you will need a four wire cable and plug. The black and red wires from the new cable will go to the two outside nuts, the white wire will go to the middle nut and you want to remove the jumper. Then the green wire from the new cable will go to the screw in the housing, grounding it.


Is it possible to replace original vinyl windows with retrofits?

The price you mentioned may seem a little high, then again maybe not. Your question, if you can use replacement windows, would be no. The extrusions of the  vinyl windows would not allow that. Just to get it out there, you could use them, but only after you remove the vinyl window completely, and install them like it was new construction. To do it that way would be a little counterproductive.

Depending on your rough openings, they may have spec'd custom sized windows that sent the price higher. I just gave a quote for replacing windows in a 1940's home with double hung weighted windows for just under $1000 each in Maryland. I spec'd 3-0/5-6 Andersen double hung windows with screens for new construction. It would be a total gut of the original window so the weight pockets could be filled in and reframe the RO. I could have spec'd replacement windows here and quoted it a lot cheaper, but that would have meant a lot of old wood still existing. I did not want to have that since the homeowner was remodeling the whole house in stages.

Keshlam's comment about researching replacement parts is a good route to take too.


Unusual that the grey is just on your property. If its utility based I'd expect to see it run through the whole plan.

The road as mentioned is probably unadopted and although it indicates that you're responsible for the section outlined, in practice these roads are often work as 'shared' ownership and the cost of work on it would be shared out between all that use it for access to their properties.


What does "DC pass" mean on a 4 way splitter?

This means that the splitter will allow DC power to pass through from the receiver to the source.  This is typically required for satelite TV where the polarity is used to switch the LNB (Low Noise Block) between different bands (if I recall correctly, usually even/odd stations require reversing the polarity).


Can I use a refrigerator that's been disconnected for a year?

If you empty out a fridge and unplug it, you will return to find a massive mold colony inside the fridge.  It is very important when taking a fridge out of service to block the door open and leave it that way for at least a month or two.

This allows the interior (and nooks and crannies and insulation which might be wet behind the interior plastic liner) to thoroughly dry out.  Assuming himidity is reasonably low at that point, you can then close the door and should be able to store it door closed.


Does clear silicone sealer damage stone?

The silicone will penetrate into the micro fissures on the surface of the stone. It will also be rather hard to get off once you attempt to remove the mats. You can get most of the silicon bead off with a sharp putty knife and/or a razor blade type window scraper. However the part that has penetrated down into the surface fissures will be nearly impossible to scrape off. You can try using a course steel wool pad that has been soaked in mineral spirits to attempt to scrub off the remaining silicon residue.

If you are ultimately concerned about the ability to cleanly remove all the silicon from the stone after the ice breaking pads have done their tour of duty then you should run some experiments before any mat installation is attempted. See if you can find any of the surplus stone material that was left over after building the steps or work on an out of view section of the actual step itself. Apply some of the candidate silicon and let it set up good for 4-5 days or so, Then attempt to remove the dried silicon and see if it is possible to remove it and all the residue.


How do I equalize the oscillating cold and hot water pressure in shower?

Stating the obvious -

Your issue is that there's a significant difference in pressures of the hot and cold supplies to the shower. This means that the 'sensitivity' of the two valves i.e. the change in flow for a given angle of opening is different, so that makes it difficult to control.

Using a monoblock mixer instead of separate taps in this situation doesn't help much - you end up with the control almost all the way to the 'hot' end and it's still very sensitive.

Options -

Take the cold supply from the same supply as the supply to the geyser - this is the solution you found by search. This does work.
Add a second pressure regulator to the cold supply so that it holds it down to the same pressure as the one feeding the geyser.
Thermostatic mixers have a bimetallic element built into the valve that automatically shifts the valve to keep the outlet temperature constant. The control then sets the desired temperature, not the mix directly. I've found that these are also a bit slow to respond to changes in pressure, say from someone flushing a toilet, though they will still have better control over temperature than a regular mixer in this situation.
Pressure balance mixers have a spool valve (there are other kinds, but this is the type I've used) which can move to partially block off either supply to the mixer if the pressure falls on the other supply. There's then a regular mixer valve as part of the same valve body. I've found that these work very well - it's the pressure that can change rapidly, not the temperature of the water, and in your case would serve to equalize the supply pressures.

And finally, my solution, since I live alone and there's no-one else to complain about it... I set the thermostat on the water heater so that it's comfortable for the shower with no addition of cold water. It's still hot enough for the washing machine - I set that to 'hot wash' where I'd normally use 'warm wash'. Dishwasher has its own heater. The downside on systems that have a hot water tank is that the amount of heat stored in the tank is less, you use more of the contents of the tank per shower, so it'll run out sooner if multiple showers are taken in succession. The upside is that less heat is lost while there's no usage.


Ed Beal's answer covers the core matter.
The handle-tie is mandatory, period.  So that's the end of that inquiry.
You're right that with handle-ties, one will probably trip the other.  However FYI that's no guarantee*.
However, I agree with keeping bathroom lights off the receptacle circuit.  What you might be overlooking is that a) lights and fan are quite small loads (less than 1 amp together)... and b) there are NO circuit restrictions associated with hardwired bathroom loads.  They can be on any circuit**.
Since presumably you have basement lighting already existing, you can simply tap the basement lighting circuit for the hardwired bathroom lights and fan.
The only gotcha I see if that if you have lighting or fan inside a shower stall, it must be GFCI protected.  However basement receptacles are also supposed to be GFCI protected, and you could always place the shower stall light/fan on the GFCI-protected "LOAD" side of a basement recep circuit.

* Factory 2-pole breakers rated for common-trip actually have an unseen internal mechanism which guarantees common trip. Handle-ties are not enough, because of breakers' "trip free" feature: they will trip even if the handle is held/locked in the "on" position.  The handle moving to the tripped position is merely a courtesy indication; if a handle-tie were to tram or bind, the tripping breaker would just trip anyway and fail to trip the other breaker.
** Except for circuits reserved for other stuff, e.g. dedicated circuits required for kitchen, laundry room, garage, and bathroom (though see the 210.11(C)(3) exception NoSparksPlease mentions above).


How do I diagnose and fix an electric water heater leak?

Good question. If the threaded insert points where the pipes themselves are attached to the unit are not leaking or if the pressure relief valve threads are not leaking then it may very well be the tank itself that is leaking.

To check the threaded connections you will have to dry out the areas of the "wells" and around the pressure relief valve. Once dry then check the threaded areas for leakage. A dry paper napkin be handy to check for wetness around the pipe connections. If you find pipe thread leaks it will be necessary to disassemble the plumbing and then clean the threads and reassemble with good quality TFE pipe thread tape in the joints.

It is possible that the pressure relief valve itself is leaking out the blow off exit opening. Normally this should have an overflow tube attached to it that aims toward a floor drain or through a wall to the outside. If this was never installed on your heater then the leak could be dribbling out of the exit pipe connection and running down into the top of the heater unit. If you find water leaks from this the pressure relief valve is replaceable.

If the investigation of the above items does not turn up anything then it is most likely a tank leak. Such leak invariably leads to a heater unit replacement. If tank corrosion has lead to a leak in one place there is highly likely to be other areas of the take with leaks waiting to happen. For this reason, even if you could determine a workable patch for one tank pinhole, it is recommended to somply replace the tank.

Use care around the tank if the insulation is dripping wet. If this has gotten into the electrical controls or connection area there is a possibility of electrical shock. Do shut off the electricity at the panel before doing any work for safety sake.


When to use inox (stainless steel) screws in an anchor as opposed to using galvanized/normal screw?

Inox is stainless steel with 10% (or more) chromium. The different grades have different alloys and create a stronger fastener. In industrial settings we do use A4 because it is superior. Think of case hardened for a parallel most think of in the U.S. do you really need the best grade? That depends on what you are doing high heat or cryogenic freezers may require a high grade but for home use I probably would not pay the extra. In fact depending on the type of fasteners needed you may have cheaper options with coated screws 1/10 the cost with 20+ year wearability. Although inox is stainless it can have iron oxide rust spots and if metal dust gets on the fastener in a damp area it can affect the material and can end up looking like a shiny rusted fastener. The difference I see with inox and galvinization both hot dipped and electroplated is after torquing a fastener in the contact point on galvanized parts may start rusting where with inox won't. It would help to know if you are talking about machine screws or wood screws to provide better comparisons.


I've found some good guides about this, so I'll share them here. I won't be accepting this answer, so if anyone else has something to add, please do.

The US EPA publishes a guide on mold remediation in commercial buildings, much of which seems applicable to residential buildings also. The guide recommends three methods to clean wood surfaces smaller than 100 square feet: wet vacuum if the area is still wet, damp wipe with detergent, and HEPA vacuum when dry.

The guide also provides advice on what protective equipment is required for cleanups of varying sizes.

The Washington State Department of Health publishes a guide that provides much of the same information as the EPA guide, but has an additional recommendation about treating surfaces with a cleaner containing borate to inhibit future mold growth.

Any remediation activities should be performed after the source of moisture is identified and removed.

I suppose the best advice is probably to consult a reputable remediation professional, as molds are allergenic and some are toxic, even after they are dead. The resources I've found suggest hiring a pro for cleanups of any area larger than 10 square feet. If performing the remediation yourself, take all necessary precautions to protect your health and to limit exposure to building occupants, and of course don't rely solely on this answer for advice.


How should I conceal gaps between laminate flooring and wall trim?

Wood flooring is usually installed with a gap to the actual wall - this is important, because it allows for differences in expansion/contraction between the flooring and the materials used to frame the building. If you tried to make a perfect tight fit, the floor would either buckle, crack, or pull away from the wall.

The gap is typically covered with trim (molding) when finishing the room after installing the flooring.

Problems arise when people try to install new flooring without replacing the trim. It looks like that's what has happened here, since it appears that your flooring is butted up against the trim, not the actual wall itself. The most common method of dealing with this is to install more trim, up against the existing trim - typically, a piece of quarter round molding as seen in this photo:

It appears that the photo you've posted shows a door frame. For cases like this, where a quarter round would block the operation of the door, it's typical to undercut the existing molding so the new flooring can be slipped under it. Here's a photo of a piece of flooring slipped under an undercut door jamb:

Of course, in your case, it's too late to undercut the jamb. Unless you're willing to rework the door there may not be much you can do that won't run the risk of looking like a hack-job. I would be tempted to cut small pieces of the floor material and lay them in the gaps (leaving them free-floating so they can move with the floor). Or, you could use small pieces of flooring cork (or any cork, really) or even foam rubber. Once the gap is filled, your eye won't pick up on it as easily. Caulk won't be easy to get a good looking finish with, and will likely shrink or pull away in a gap that large anyways.

If you do try to fill the gap, make sure it's with a material that can still allow for movement of the flooring.


Strengthening existing 2x4 joists to create a mini attic

Wow, this is quite an effort, but I know how valuable space is in SF.

I’ll make some assumptions and you let me know if I’m wrong. First, Loads are divided into Live Loads (storage boxes, books, Christmas decorations, etc.) plus Dead Loads (gypsum board ceiling, ceiling joists, 1/2” plywood subfloor, etc.) Generally we add about 3 psf for miscellaneous loads like lights, ductwork, etc. into the dead load. So, here’s your Dead Load:

Gypsum board ceiling: 2.5 psf, plus 2x4’s @ 16” oc: 1.0 psf, plus 1/2” subfloor on 2x4’s: 1.5 psf, plus misc.: 3 psf...for a total Dead Load of 8.0 psf.

Second, Live Loads are considered uniformly distributed across the storage space...AND loads in the middle third of the span affects the deflection the most AND can cause cracks in the gypsum board ceiling when you exceed the allowable loads.

Here are your options:

Option 1: Just add subfloor on existing 2x4 @ 16” oc.

Depending on the species and grade of ceiling joists, 2x4’s @ 16” oc spanning 10’ can support about 12 psf Live Load plus 8 psf Dead Load.

This is certainly the easiest option. I’d suggest you lay out some items you want to store and see if it exceeds 12 psf. (Remember, it’s 12 psf over  the span of several ceiling joists. That is to say, if part of the area is 16 psf and an adjacent area ON THE SAME JOISTS weighs 8 psf...you’re probably ok.)

Option 1A: Same as Option 1, but don’t store anything in the middle third of the span:

With this option, you can store about 20 psf Live Load in the first 1/3 on each side of each span...but nothing in the middle third.

Option 2: Add 1 - 2x4 between each existing 2x4. (You can sister it to the existing 2x4’s or secure it anywhere between the existing joists.)

This will double the allowable loads discussed in Option 1 and 1A.

Option 3: Sister 2x6’s to existing 2x4’s.

2x6’s @ 16” oc spanning 10’ will support about 60 psf  Live Load. If you add that to the existing 2x4’s you can support about 72 psf. However, this is based on the fact that you fasten the 2x6’s to the 2x4’s with adequate nails/screws. (Of course, if they are not fastened together then the allowable Live Load would be 60 psf.)

Option 4: Install 2x4 flat to top of each 2x4 ceiling joist.

This is not recommended. The extreme fiber in bending on the tension side (on the bottom) is still limited by the lumbers fiber strength for a 2x4 on edge.

Option 5: Provide supports from ceiling joists up to existing 2x8’s @ 16” on center spanning the same 10’.

2x8’s @ 16” spanning 10’ can support about 120 psf Live Load. Adding a support (2x4) at mid span will increase the allowable Live Load on the existing 2x4’s up to about 110 psf AND add a point load to the 2x8’s....which could over stress the 2x8’s depending on what the actual load is above the ceiling and what it’s supporting on the second floor.

If you have a refrigerator or a waterbed above this area I would not do it. Otherwise, the Code requires 40 psf Live Load plus 10 psf for Dead Load for a living space. In this case, I think your 2x8’s would be fine, depending on the species and grade.

I think your next move is to consider what will be stored above the ceiling and how much it weighs...on average over a 10’ span.


What is the proper wire type/size and conduit size for an a/c circuit?

1/2 inch conduit would be fine with THWN wire. If the conduit is exposed it will need to be schedule 80 pvc. If the conduit is under the house it could be schedule 40 pvc. With a 11 amp load 14awg wire size is more than enough with a 15 amp breaker. If you want to put in a 20 amp line 12 awg wire. if you do install a 20 amp with a single outlet code requires that outlet to be a 20 amp outlet. If you use a duplex outlet a 15 amp outlet would be code compliant.


Hooked up new programmable timer, but concerned about red wire

The switch you installed can be wired for either single pole or 3-way configurations. The red wire is a traveller for the 3-way setup. It is not used in the single pole setup. Capping it is right.


What are the pros and cons of medium-density fibreboard (MDF)?

MDF is medium density fiberboard. It is essentially an amalgamation of sawdust, wood chips, and binders. Sorta like dried oatmeal.

Cons:

MDF is a pain to work with if you have to remodel later or install hardware several times, as the more you drill it, the less sturdy it becomes and begins to flake.
It will also split if not pilot hole drilled.
MDF does NOT tolerate water well. Water begins to degrade MDF into fine particles, think wet cardboard.
Smooth shank nails have a difficult finding purchase.
Formaldehyde resins are commonly used to bind MDF together, so I wouldn't use it near small children or pets.
It is much heavier than similar sized pine boards.
MDF crumbles easily, so finding pieces that have a clean edge are hard to find.

If you have purchased anything from Ikea, you know what this is.

Pros:

It's cheaper than hard wood.
It can look very "clean" as it doesn't contain knots or rings or any other naturally occurring wood deformities.

Verdict: Use anything else, seriously. MDF is cheaper, but you will pay for it in the long run. Especially true for cabinets, as weight of the wood will decrease the amount your cabinet can hold, plus MDF will begin to sag from stress.

What about Pineboard? Pineboard, considered to be the cheapest whole wood you can buy. Is stronger than MDF, lasts longer, holds up to water degredation much better, and doesn't crumble.


How can double swinging closet doors be installed?

There is no reason you cannot have conventional double doors on a closet.

Bracing the Inside Corner

To solve the free corner issue, you can put a small stop, attached to the floor at the center point between the two doors. It needs to be wide enought to stop both doors (probably anything over 1 inch would do) and tall enough to catch the doors at the bottom (3/4 or 1 inch should do, and you want it as short as practical).

The simplist approach is to use ordinary domed door stops screwed into the floor inside the closet.  One could probably be placed to catch both doors.  These may be prone to a toe stub, but are probably the least likely to cause harm.

If you want to make your own stop, you could use a metal L channel or a wooden block screwed through the top into the floor. Metal is smaller, but may be more prone to hurt if you stub your toe against it. A small wooden block with sloped shoulders might be better. It only needs to be thick enough to hold up (maybe 3/4 inches). All exposed edges sould be slightly rounded with sandpaper to soften the edges for safety.

Latching

The simplist approach to holding the doors closed is to use magnetic latches.  You can put them at the top only or at the top and bottom. If you do put them on the bottom, put the latch on the door and the strike plate on the floor stopper (another reason to use a wooden stopper).

As an alternative, you could use a cabinet latch at the top.

Finally, you could use a button type latch set into the tops of each door and the door frame.  These are somewhat harder to install, but look more finished.

Handles

In each of these cases, you would use dummy handles or pulls to open the doors.


Can I leave drywall floating in the corners of my basement ceiling?

The overkill direction (which is actually appropriate for some circumstances, such as a ceiling that needs to hold up a lot of insulation, as for an attic above) is to run 1x3 strapping opposite to the joists. An advantage in the application I mention is that this strapping can be on 12 inch spacing, so the drywall can be attached with a screw every foot, even if the roof trusses are on 2 foot centers.

In general, it is actually advantageous to leave the edges of the ceiling to float for the last foot or so, so long as you drywall the ceiling first and the walls after, butting them up to the ceiling before screwing them in place - the wall drywall then ends up supporting the edges of the ceiling drywall, but the whole is slightly less prone to crack in the case of small building movements as there's a little give from the floating edge. Here's a reference (they also suggest using corner clips.) Scoot down to photograph 4, and you won't be surprised to find that they mention the other point of view as being commonly held. As for it being "a developing point of view" only in building would something code approved for 30 or more years (per the above reference) be "developing..." An additional reference. And another. Search on drywall floating corner cracks for more references. And one in my comment on @bib's answer from the Gypsum Association; they might just know a thing or two about hanging drywall.


bit holder v.s. hex bit socket v.s. nut driver

You can use them interchangeably, as long as they're the same size.

A "bit-holder" will often be magnetized to hold the bit in (and incidentally holding the screw as well) while the other two can be, but it's not as common.

A "hex bit socket" or "nut driver" is probably more durable than a "bit holder" if it matters to you, for example if you're using a high torque impact driver.


After my condo shuts off and turns on the main water, how can I avoid dirty water?

Unless your condo association is willing put in a filtration system  at the main source then you  either have to flush the pipes for a minute or two  (Not practical for refrigerator supply lines.)
OR Install a filter in your unit.
This can be done if you have one supply pipe coming into your unit as opposed to separate lines that go to individual fixtures.
The condo i live in does this on a regular basis and i just open all fixtures and let them run a few minutes.


PIR Wall Switch Occupancy Sensor not working WSP-250

Unless the directions state that the use of a pencil is the proper way to operate the switch, you should replace it. The rattling sound would also be a reason for replacement. Don't chance it arcing because the internal contacts aren't connecting right. Take some pictures of the switch before disconnecting any wires. That way we can better assist you if you have some trouble. Many questions on this site are because someone disconnected something and cannot remember how to reconnect it. Pictures are worth a thousand words. turn off the breaker to the circuit before doing anything. Good luck.


How to remove glue from a CD/DVD plastic case

Use an orange oil based product like Goo Gone.

If the glue is a water soluable material then just soak the case in warm water for a while.

If you use the Goo Gone you will want to wash with warm soapy water afterwards to remove the oily film.


A quick & dirty approach is to simply staple plastic sheeting on the underside of the garage rafters, and cut holes for the electrical fixtures.  It isn't pretty, isn't nearly as warm as actually drywalling & insulating the space.  But it's surprising how much warmer it is then just the open joists.


My husband left the water running from the hose and the well is dry!

Give it time. Most wells have a pretty consistent "production rate" based on underground geography (maybe there is a better word).  I've grown up around wells all my life and every one is different.

Give the well time to recharge (let water refill the well drill pipe. )

Because the well ran dry and the above ground pump started "sucking air" it may need to be re-primed. Not a hard procedure to do.

We can help you with specific instructions if you let us know more details of your well system, pump, well logs (drilling logs) drawdown tests.  But esp. the details of your pump so we can help you safely restart it.   Some wells with limited capacity have controls in place to prevent damage to a pump in the case of excessive draw.  That would be another important thing for us to know.


Hue Light Strip - Best outdoor, long run equivalent?

Search on Wish or AliExpress for “solar light string” - these things cost almost nothing and look nice and do provide light. Usually they have some kind of settings like different patterns or intensities.

For wired: There are other “LED strips” that you have to do more work to wire up, but the possibilities are endless - RGB, or variations of warm or cool white, or other colors. Most come with remotes, so you can make adjustments. There are specific strips that are waterproof (encased in rubber).  They all run on 12v so you can use transformers and plug into 110, or do things like use a solar panel.


Replacing a existing slab door from house to garage

You do not want to replace a 1 3/4 inch door (which is presumably a solid core door) with a 1 3/8 door of any type. The reason is that fire codes require a door with a fire break rating between the house and the garage. Fire break doors are generally 1 3/4" thick for standard doors.

Many homes now days may even use a steel clad door in this application instead of just a solid wood door.


Can buffing and sanding attachments be used with a fixed speed powerdrill?

The answer is yes, but not as effectively as a purposefully designed tool. Take a look at buffing and sanding tools' RPM. It's significantly higher than that of a power drill: 8,000 - 15,000 for an air powered palm sander vs 300-1,500 RPM for a standard variable speed drill.

Other aspects depend upon the modular design of the particular tool you're interested in. For example, a simple rotary sander will leave circular scratches in wood that a random orbital sander will not. These scratches become very evident when stain is applied.

Power is another factor. Purpose-built tools are designed to provide peak power in their application range. A multi-purpose do-it-all tool will likely compromise this "tuning" to be able to work in all applications.

If I'm understanding your question correctly, tool kits like this do exist outside of the gimmicky "As-Seen-On-TV" ads. The Ridgid Jobmax is one example, and the Black & Decker Matrix is another.


Flange recommendation needed. Old flange rusted. New floor higher than older pvc pipe lip

If you need the extra height, just install a replacement flange that fits inside the existing pipe. There's both screw-tightening (where tightening bolts pushes a rubber gasket out to lock in place)

(Response to edit)

If you can get underneath (as your new picture depicts), you can avoid using an insert flange entirely. Cut the pipe off somewhere below, add a regular flange to a new pipe and just add a new coupler to attach the new to the old. Easier (and cheaper) than an insert.


I dropped a thumb tack down the drain, should I be worried?

I can't imagine it doing any harm and it's not worth the effort to remove the trap to try and find it as it probably has already passed the trap and is in the sewer.
If you like to fish, you could fasten a magnet to a piece of string and lower in into the drain and try to snag the tack. Just don't lose the magnet down there. You could also remove the trap but that can be messy and why take it apart if it's not leaking.


How can I fix a garage door motor that runs but doesn't move the chain?

It sounds like the chain might not be on the sprocket that drives it.  Get up on a ladder and look at the top of the unit. You should be able to easily see if the chain is off the sprocket.  Try running the opener while you are up there too.

If the chain has come off you will need to loosen the chain tension, place the chain back over the sprocket and tighten it to the correct tension. Your user manual should have details on how to perform this but usually there is a screw you adjust on the trolley that controls the tension. Make sure to disconnect your door from the trolley before you do this.

Here's  YouTube video that shows the process.


Is it common to see building wire used for a doorbell?

It is not common because of cost but it’s also not uncommon. I agree with Harper if I have a broken bell wire I would use something on the truck to repair the wires. Since it was repaired you may get lucky and be able to use the existing wires as a pull.

I would use a pull string , but you may have some stout fishing line that could work. The trick here is figuring out where the break or short is.
At the chime disconnect the door bell button and verify you have 24v , some transformers have a bridge that converts to dc so you need to know what you are trying to measure unless your meter automatically checks for both. If there is voltage at the chime  we know the problem is probably at the splice.

I would use the wires as a pull. I would tie a pull string to the bell wires and pull that direction because the bell wires are smaller and if it will pull small wires following a large cable will work easier than trying to pull the other way.

If the wires are stapled and I now know I will have to open the wall sometimes I will pull to the breaking point and the splice may pull free then I would measure the length go up to that point and open the wall, it may save a lot of repair work if you can fish the new wires down the wall.

Just to clarify the string or fishing line is used to pull new wires from the button to the chime. Pulling the wires out at the button location , hopefully until the string or fishing line arrives at the button location. Standard pull string is rated at over 100 pounds.


A/C Runs non-stop and shuts down without reaching desired temp

Here are some things that you can do:

check the air filter, could be frozen or dirty enough to restrict airflow.
check for any possible ice build-up
shut down the system from the breaker for 30 minutes: this will reset the system and allow time to melt any ice build-up. Power back on and see if the temperature holds.

Here is what I would recommend to have a professional do

Verify that the thermostat is working correctly. You didn't seem 100% on this point and a bad thermostat would give the results you are getting.
Have the pressure re-checked. Too much or too little coolant can affect the efficiency of the unit.

Get a second opinion

The issue should have been resolved by a professional within 2 visits. If it takes more than that, you need a fresh pair of eyes to look and re-assess the problem(s) with the unit. Even if you need to pay an additional fee with someone else, it might be worth it to get the correct resolution.

If the unit is under warranty, you can request from the company responsible to send a different technician for a second opinion at no charge.


Can level quik be poured over wood subfloor

The self leveling compounds work quite well on both wood and cement floors.
My house is a daylight basement and the upper Kitchen floor was in rough shape. The only problem I had was a hole I forgot to patch.
Some of the compound did make its way to the lower level and I did have to add some to a little over 18 inch square to make it flat.
That vinyl has been there since 2008 and I have had no problems.
Even with all the small cracks the only area I had anything come through was the hole that was 1/2" wide by about 3" long it had some sawdust in it and I forgot about it untill the wife asked me about the stuff dripping in my Man Cave.


Go to your local rental store and ask for a walk-behind stump grinder.  They are easy to use, cheap ($40-50 a day).  Get some instruction from the rental store.  This machine is self propelled and can get into small areas.  Grind out the stump to a few inches below ground grade, then build your shed right over it!!!!  Good Luck


It's cast aluminum.

Most dishwasher detergents contain lye (NaOH, sodium hydroxide) - which reacts drastically with aluminum. Fortunately the dwell time in a dishwasher is short enough that it generally only darkens, as opposed to dissolving entirely (which it will do with adequate time.)

Yes, it's safe to use (after hand-washing and rinsing throughly), no, it's not dishwasher-safe and should be hand-washed instead.

The filter cup is of some different metal (either stainless steel or something nickle-plated, at a guess.)


We have a bathroom in our house where the previous owners thought it would be a good idea to paint over the tile and grout with some kind of ceramic tile paint on the walls.  The house was a rental for some time before we bought it, and while we don't know how long the paint was in use, it seems to be very durable.

Since we have owned the house, we have not had any issues with the paint standing up to normal use and cleaning.  We have not hit it with abrasives, but I expect it would scratch in the same ways that tile would.  I haven't tested this, though.  There is one spot on the wall where someone was able to cause some grief on the wall with either abrasives or some other kind of failed cleanup.

Because the paint isn't on the floor tile, it's hard to say how well it would stand up to foot traffic, but it does seem durable.  On the walls in the shower, it has cracked a bit when some remodeling was done in the adjacent room (gutted kitchen to studs) and I believe there was a bit of flex in the wall during that work.

If given the choice, I'd use this kind of solution as a last resort.  It doesn't look quite right and while it's durable for most instances on walls, it might not be good for floors.


How do I open this flush ceiling light to change the bulb?

The installation instructions seem pretty clear.  You should remove the three screws around the perimeter and then you may have to twist the shade portion to pull it down.  The bump visible next to the screw could be an indentation that holds on to a notch in the shade that requires it to be twisted before it comes off.

Maybe you just need to use a little more force than you did, but that diagram seems to show that there's nothing else holding the shade on.


How to mount 18mm MDF Shelves on plasterboard/drywall hollow wall (no studs)?

I love those ez anchors they can support a fair load.
At 77” long and only 7” deep I would consider L brackets that require 2 screws each this would provide ~100 lbs of support at each bracket l bracket is similar to your angle but one side is 3” the other is 1” or 1/2 my local big box store has this type of angle or bracket. The issue here is the front will sag so a longer bracket is really needed.  As far as how many you will need I would think at least 5 brackets because MDF will sag if not supported. 4 may work but I would probably use 5 .

I would create triangle braces out of 1x2  again I would probably use 2 anchors for each support 7 “ is not much but better safe than sorry.
If you make your triangle 7” on the 2 sides then the long side creates the support for the front of the shelf , this would prevent sagging.


How do I install a ceiling light where one never existed?

You could use a pancake box mounted directly on the joist. (I'd suggest "fan rated" for future options.) This will end up flush with the drywall. Use 2" wood screws; not drywall screws to attach.

Alternately, if you didn't want it right on the joist, and you want to be absolutely sure your fixture isn't going to come crashing down at an awkward moment, get a retrofit ceiling box with a brace. They are really easy to install and might cost you an extra 10 bucks. This will also allow for a fan in the future if you want to go that way. Old work ceiling boxes that are rated for light fixtures do exist, but you're relying on the strength of the drywall and the accuracy of your install to hold them up.


How can I remove a Carpet from concrete stuck down with black mastic/bitumen

I've had to do this in the past in a very similar situation. We used a 'diamond' cone angle grinder wheel, like this:

Image of one in use:

The first step was to pull off as much material by hand or with a scraper / flat shovel, so we were mainly grinding only through the adhesive. The grinder literally takes off a very thin layer of concrete so the strength of the adhesive bond was not a problem.

These cup wheels aren't cheap but you should be able to rent an equivalent tool locally (at least, that is true here in the US). There are also walk-behind grinders which work on the same principle, maybe that would be a good choice though I have not used one.

Angle grinders have some definite safety issues to be aware of which I would absolutely advise reading about if its an unfamiliar tool (even if it isn't). One of them is that this method produces a ton of fine dust. We rigged up a plastic shroud attached to a vacuum around the head of our grinder and that worked really well to contain the dust. (Again, this is where a rental tool might be well worth it if that feature is available).