electrical service to a shipping container workshop

It sounds like you have things well thought out here as far as electrical matters go.  A couple of notes:

You may wish to bury a fat conduit (or two -- I'd use 2" or 3" Schedule 80 PVC for this) in the trench as well as the PEX line and the UF cable, or better yet, bury some conduits and use one for the feeder to the container-building.  This way, you don't have to dig up or abandon the UF later if you need MOAR POWAH at your workshop.
You'll want to have your ground rod checked by an electrician to make sure it is less than 25 ohms to ground (for adequate lightning protection of the electrical system).  If it isn't, you'll need to install a second one at least 6' away and bond them together with the Grounding Electrode Conductor.
You are correct in that the container should be earthed.  If you don't plan to move it later, an exothermic welding kit, used properly, will make a permanent copper-to-steel bond between the bonding conductor to the container and the container chassis -- I would bond to a container frame rail to minimize the risk of the exothermic weld accidentally perforating the container wall sheets.
A strike terminator (lightning rod) is a good idea, especially if the container is the tallest thing in the area.  Note that the lightning rod needs its own earthing electrode -- it cannot share an earthing path with the power system to avoid excessive common-mode voltages getting induced onto the power system and frying things.
The minimum size for Grounding Electrode Conductors in the NEC is 6AWG -- bare 6AWG copper wire is easy to find, and can be directly buried without issue.  This wire needs to run between all the ground rods, the container chassis bond point, and the panel ground bar.


I know around here there is a kind of temporary transparent caulking that can be put around windows and such to prevent air flow. In the winter, it prevents cold air to come in, and in the summer it can be put around window air conditioning units to prevent warm air from coming in and cool air from going out.

This type of caulking is easy to remove at the end of the season.

Last year we used plastic film taped around the windows to prevent air from coming in. This year we'll try that caulk, which worked very well during the summer.

If air is coming from under your main door, you could try and put a towel when the door is closed, or a carpet, even.

(The goal here is to prevent air from even coming into your apartment.)


Cannot determine why breaker is tripping

Just to close this question out, I followed the advice in the comments and did a stepwise disconnection of the various outlets and whatnot.  This led me to suspect the ceiling fan in bedroom B.  When I inspected its wiring, I noticed one of the ground wires was disconnected from the bundle it was tied-to (using one of hose colored plastic twisty things that look like a thimble).  I fixed that and voila, problem solved!  Thanks for all the comments and tips.


Why does it seem all new faucets are using braided hose instead of stainless steel?

Durability - I have often seen the stainless/chrome plated hose breaking up after a few years... this is where the hose splits along the seam of the hose... This will not happen with the braided hose due to the fact that you have a netted sheath.
Also. the braided pattern is more flexible than its counterpart.

Cost -  This hose is substantially cheaper than the corrugated style hose.

Ease of manufacturing and assembly:  this hose can be crimped during assembly, the alternative is to use more complex and expensive screw clamps to assemble the unit.

You will probably also find the regular stainless braided hose like this:


How do you level 1/2" x 6" flooring planks?

If your subfloor is only a 1/2 inch thick and partially rotten you need to replace it. Even if it were in perfect condition that's not thick enough for laminate flooring, it will droop and bounce like walking on sponge cake. Cut out your floor boards, true up/replace/sister your floor joists using a site laser or string line and power plane if they need it (and I'd bet you a shiny nickel they do)especially if the joists are under the span load limit, here's a tutorial on span limits:
http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.php
It looks daunting but its not as bad as it looks. If you're still fuzzy just go to your local building center and they can usually calculate loads and spans for you. Once you've got that figured out, sheet with 3/4 t&g cdx. Run a bead of PL on the joists to fill and small voids and bind it all together. Here's a pretty thorough link from a sheeting manufacturer.
http://buildgp.com/wood-products-installation-tips
Hope this helps!


Is it a code violation to have so many outlets and switches on a single breaker?

Dining room, living room, bedroom and lighting receps all on the same circuit is totally legal under Code.  It's a severe case of min-max'ing for builder cost rather than occupant usability, but it's not illegal at all.  This "min-max"-ing is particularly strong in manufactured homes where a single factory builds tens of thousands; a guy can earn a year's paycheck by figuring a way to shave off $5 per unit. AFCI breakers are $40.
A gas stove that has a 120V plug-in is allowed either on general house circuits, or on the dedicated kitchen countertop receptacle circuits.  That is because of an exception that allows it on the kitchen countertop circuits, which normally don't allow any fixed appliances.

As far as "GFCI Protected" labels on plain receptacles, any GFCI device can feed other devices that are also equally protected.  That's legit.  Further, the labels are not just legit but mandatory. If you see a plain outlet that you know is GFCI protected from another outlet, and there's no sticker, that's the Code violation.   If you don't like the blue stickers that come in the GFCI package, feel free to make your own!

Honestly, this is almost certainly a "Pilot error" problem, and the user needs to be educated that electricity is not just magically infinite, circuits have limits which are knowable, and each appliance takes some amount which is knowable.  So there is no mystery here.
After some problems with trips, I skilled up my sweetie, who now knows how to find an appliance's nameplate and get amps, and divide by 120 if only watts are shown, and can recite off "Toaster 7, heater 7/13, hair dryer 12" etc.  And also knows which outlets are on which breakers (it's not hard in this house).
In a more complicated house, I would resort to labeling each outlet for circuit ID and ampacity.  I'm fond of whimsical names like Thor/Odin/Loki/Sif/Hulk/Groot for circuits, but whatever you like.
The gas stove has too small a current draw to even be worth calculating, e.g. cell phone chargers, internet routers and the like, as well as LED bulbs.  The gas range/oven is one of those: the onboard electronics might take 10 watts max, plus a 25-40 watt oven light; that makes 35-50W or 0.3 to 0.4 amps.


Any reputable contractor or handyman will be able to make the repair. It may be worth having them investigate further as to why the cracks are occurring.
You'll want to mention to them when they appeared and if they have increased in size recently.
If they haven't just appeared and if you live in a seismic area the repair is a matter of securing the loose sections with screws aand covering the cracks with Spackle.


I removed this non-load bearing wall in the corner of my basement, now 2 doors upstairs rub on their frames. Why is this?

I really don't know where to start on this question.
There are several steps that need to be done, and soon before any serious damage is done. First, you need to stabilize the situation.  Several joists must be supported at once via a temp bridge support ( 2, 2X8's upright, spanning several joists)  held up by your temp house jack, but two would be better. One on either end.

Then you really should get the advise of a pro to evaluate your situation.  If you have a main lolly column sinking, that is a problem.  The 3/4 inch cuts should not be much of a problem, but they should have been made in the center of the joists, not an edge.  Are there any cracks traveling from these cuts? If not, then they are not the problem.  I have several theories, but without actually seeing the layout and taking measurements, it is impossible to properly evaluate.  Get a pro in there, don't take advice that is not based on an inspection of the problem.


Furnace Water Drainage from inducer motor

It sounds like your trap may not have enough height to keep air from being pulled in. I have to make traps that were close to 5" to prevent the pressure from pulling the water out of the trap. Yes they do get dirty and need to be cleaned, but if the trap is holding water it will drain while running, if the trap is not deep enough air is pulled through the trap and water will build up until it is deep enough in the pan or shuts down and gravity pulls it out.


I asked the company that sold the sink, and they said that the pipe is attached to bottom of the sink with a screw. So the pipe could be removed as in this photo:


How do I fix a crooked inside corner drywall line?

No need to mess with the tape job. It's just a matter of filling the depressions on each wall that create that wiggle. The easiest way is to completely repair one wall, then the other. It can get frustrating to try and do both at once, but it's possible. Your 12" knife isn't quite ideal, but it'll do. A 16" or wider knife or trowel would be great.
If you slide your knife against the adjacent wall into the corner you'll see that its edge creates a bridge over the recess. That's the level to which you want to fill. Lay some all-purpose or topping joint compound into the area. Press it in well, then work it out from the corner. Pull your knife out along the wall and scrape the mud flat. Use firm pressure but keep your knife no closer to the wall than about 60 degrees. You don't want it to flex into the trough you're trying to fill.
Always apply too little mud as opposed to too much. It's way easier to apply more later than to sand a mound down and deal with the mess. A fan makes drying times quick. Keep checking the level using your knife as a straightedge across the depression. At the end, give the whole area a thin skim to flatten any lingering divots.
When it comes time to sand, use a screen on a large pad. Don't use small sanding blocks.  They tend to dig into some areas more than others, degrading your flat surface. Use long, light strokes across the depression just until all imperfections are gone.


How to grout in order to minimize uneven tile spacing?

This is really going to be opinion based but I would be looking for a dark blue, tile matching grout. The white grout is going to tie all those shooting rays  of white together and will lose the effect. The imperfections would be minor unless your mother-in-law or father-in-law wanted to make a point in which case no color grout would hide it. Just my humble opinion. You could even think about using the same color for the subway tile depending on your color coordination. Caution: no one has ever let me decorate their house.


Best materials to seal curved shower wall corner to shower tray

You might try a flexible plastic "caulking strip":

I have used this several times and will share what I think are keys to success:

remove all the old strips and all the old caulking. Caulking removal is not easy and IMO is best accomplished using mechanical means (cutting and scraping) combined with chemical means (caulking remover). This takes time because the caulking remover needs time to soften the old caulk.
Thoroughly dry the entire cleaned area and waterproof the gap between pan and surround before covering it with any trim. This means caulking the gap, it's important because it will prevent water intrusion when (not if) the trim inevitably fails again over time. I won't go into detail about best practice for caulking, there is already substantial info. about that on this (and other) sites.
apply decorative trim. I suggest the caulking strip because it can accommodate curves of reasonable radii. It comes in many widths and colors, with matching widths on both sides of the fold or with narrow x wide configurations. I have found that warming it up a bit (let it sit in the sun for a while) prior to installation facilitates the process.


installing sub panel in garage off of house main

The 225A welder would draw 50A @ 240V on it's maximum setting. The 17,000 BTU/hr heater is electrically equivalent to 5kW, so about 21A @ 240V. If you want to operate both simultaneously plus lights (not much power required for those, however), you need a 100A subfeed to your garage.. 60A will not cut it.

A 100A subfeed to the garage requires 3/3 AWG NMD if the garage is attached and the cable is protected and not in a wet location. If the garage is separate, then you're looking at running conduit, with 3 AWG RWU90 line and neutral conductors, (minimum 6 AWG neutral conductor if your locality lets you run a reduced neutral), and a 4 AWG ground.

The breaker would be 100A, unless you can find one that's larger than 70A but less than 100 A. You will likely want to upgrade your service to 200A (Imagine someone using the stove and electric clothes dryer while you weld in your heated garage…) In my jurisdiction, a load calculation would result in a 200A service being required.


Need help tracking down why the tension pulley is red hot after putting on new riding mower belt

It's rotating free because there's no tension on it. It will probably seize up a bit under load. The bearings are probably shot maybe due to the grass fire burning the grease seals. try replacing that pulley.


How do I make sure I get a replacement toilet tank that fits the bowl?

I was about to upvote the answer of @GreyBeardedGeek , because in general trying to find a match will be impossible.  But then I read the word Toto.  Toto is a different case: they have a corporate sustainability principle.  The short answer is: call Toto at 1-888-295-8134.  As for gaskets: one should come with the replacement tank, else is easy to get at any hardware store.  Some PTFE plumbers tape is good also, if the supply line nut is metal.

And check the warranty also, it may apply depending on who you talk to at Toto:

TOTO warrants its residential faucets, bathroom accessories and cast iron tubs, excluding the acrylic side panel and accessories, (Product) to be free from defects in materials and workmanship during normal use when properly installed and serviced, for the lifetime of the Product from date of purchase.

The only real gotcha in this job is "don't drop anything".  The tanks are made of ceramic and crack easily (not to mention do a bang up job on toes).

The only real gotcha in the warranty is that it is nominally non-transferable.


What is causing my halogen lights to not stay on immediately?

Does the transformer have an overload shut-off, with an automatic reset?

The resistivity of tungsten increases markedly with temperature. A cold tungsten-halogen bulb will draw much more current then a hot one (and they do get very hot!). So the first switch-on with a cold bulb will:

Draw a very high current, which:
Overloads the transformer, causing it to cut off momentarily, while;
Heating the filament enough that;
The second, immediate switch-on does not overload the transformer.

Just a guess, but if your transformer has this feature, it could be the explanation...

EDIT:

This just in:  this site, http://www.varilight.co.uk/lighting/transformers.html, states that their transformer has overload protection with auto reset...


The wide spots are where the tape came loose and this could be from a leak or bad install in the first place. I don’t see any damage to the Sheetrock so it probably is not a chronic problem. The crack in the corner looks to have air flow, notice the dark area with lines close to the crack. I have seen this around air plenums many times. From what I see they don’t look bad as a real concern about the structure. Repair work to fix these is more of an art than hard because it can be tough to match the texture. I would clean them up get a small tub of joint compound a roll of “paper tape” some sandpaper or Sheetrock sanding cloth and a can of texture. A wide putty knife is really the only tool needed because it is small areas but a mud tray could be handy and a pole sander can make the job easier. Don’t get hot mud or a fast setting type it is harder to sand and takes more skill to apply ( it looks like some one may have already made this mistake.
So how big is the project? It depends on your abilities, I would say it is an easy fix however some would say impossible. For a new to diy an hour of online research should be 45 minutes more than is needed to learn how to do it. Maybe an hour of prep work to clean things up. And since there are multiple surfaces flat and corners maybe 2 hours on the first pass and a quick sand then a final coat 30 more minutes prior to a quick shot of texture and painting.  This could be broken down into a bunch of tasks 30 minutes or less you don’t have to do it all at once and usually over several days. A pro could probably have it done in about an hour maybe 2. So it really is not a big job at all and although a bit like art it is a great skill to have. I have seen people pay hundreds for repairs that only cost 20$ in parts (mud, tape and Sheetrock) and took a pro about an hour once set up.


A GFCI outlet controlled by a light switch

If this is a new outlet run take all 3 wires to the switch box the white wire nutted together white to white. The ground you will want to pig tail a ~6" piece to the switch green screw. The black is put on the switch (I usually put the hot on top) and feed the outlet on bottom. Just an FYI Garbage disposals are notorious for eating GFCI's so it may be a good idea to have a spare (just be aware that this can happen).


If purely decorative, plaster-of-Paris (aka gypsum paster) sets quickly, takes detail from molds well, and paints well.

The brick link you provided is for "sun-dried mud brick" or "adobe" (more or less) - I suspect plaster would be at least as strong as that. Normal clay brick is kiln fired (your home oven won't do it, but odds are there's a potter or 3 in your town with kilns.) Any clay brick requires some drying time (or it will crack if dried too swiftly) unless it is pressed (at very high pressure) from dry powdered clay.

Brickmaking link


Hot water flow -- to one sink -- low and getting worse

If it is sediment, you could open only that problematic  hot water tap at the sink, then shut off your water supply to the house and drain your water heater. That will suck all the hot water back down the line in the other direction and maybe flush out what is in there. that will at least be a way to narrow down if it is sediment within the line.


Should I attempt to save 4" cast iron DWV fittings and pipe?

I am in Portland too.  Hardly anyone uses cast iron pipe anymore, so there is little demand for it.  Possibly you could donate it to the Rebuilding Center (on N. Mississippi) and take a tax deduction for it.  Otherwise, it is scrap cast iron.

There is wide variation of pricing between scrap buyers.

Bulk prices nationwide are estimated at $205 to $235 per metric ton, or $0.09 to $0.106 per pound.  It does not matter how big or small the pieces are.

None of the Portland area scrap dealers advertise their prices online.  Here is a list of contacts so you can call around and/or visit.

However, in negotiating a rate, it is better that the cast iron be relatively pure and free of mud, crud, waste, and other metals.  Hosing it down should be good enough.


Electric Guitar at an outdoor show - Grounding issues?

YES, you should not plug in without testing the ground, and you really should be protected by a GFI when playing outdoors. It is dangerous because you could be shocked or even electrocuted by playing without a ground or with a faulty ground. The guitar player for The Yardbirds was killed this way, look it up.

You can test for ground with an inexpensive plug-in device you can buy at any hardware store.


Importance of plaster repair skills/experience

Should I assume that someone skilled at stucco work is also skilled at
  plaster work?

No you should not!


Move toilet rough-in two inches? Floor still open

Looks like you could fit an Offset Flange there. You'd probably get about 1.5".

Home Depot - NIBCO 3 in. x 4 in. PVC DWV Hub Offset Closet Flange


Is it okay to regularly turn off lamps (2) via a power strip rather than their individual switches?

In most cases, simple switches are equivalent. They break the circuit and do nothing else. So switching (breaking the circuit) further down the line is usually fine.

There are some exceptions, such as dimmers, multi-position switches, and multi-pole switches, none of which seem in play here.

The computer is different because it need to be shut down (program exited) rather than simply turned off. And some computers never really turn off but keep a very low power program running to allow fast start or remote update or activation.

The use of LED bulbs in a socket that is properly rated for incandescent bulbs will likely not generate any dangerous heat when properly mounted. ETL seems to be similar to UL safety listing. You do need to check if the mounting instructions specify minimum clearances.

The only risk you may face is possible damage to the finish of the vanity after long term grip by the rubber coated clamps. Some rubbers and plastics break down or give off solvents over time.


Ceiling fiberglass getting yellow because of bad primer?

You will probably need a shellac based primer. It sounds like the coloring in the insulation is bleeding through.
I have found that shellac based primers are the only way to stop bleed through with other painting projects.
Zinser, bin and kill are the primer brands that work well for me.
I have no association with these products other than being a satisfied customer.


Run individual THWN wires in a fat conduit, you'll thank yourself later
For your situation, I wouldn't even bother with a direct burial cable; instead, I would run a conduit (or two, even) from the house to the shed, and run 4 THHNs (14AWG is fine since you're limited to 15A circuits and a 15A two-pole breaker anyway by the 14AWG wiring inside the shed, unless you put a subpanel and ground rods in) in one conduit, leaving the other spare for communications cables.  If you want a precise size, I'd use 1" for the power conduit and a 1.5" for the spare; this lets you use a cheap non-fusible pullout disconnect on the outside of the shed as the shed's disconnecting means, and since you're powering this shed with a single multi-wire branch circuit, you don't need ground rods there.


How can I connect two propane tanks together with a regulator?

You will need to connect the output of the auto change over regulator to the line coming out of the ground.
I am guessing you got the proper 1st stage auto change over.
houses and travel trailers usually have different setups. I had a travel trailer that had the auto setup it was a single stage.
I have built a few homes with propane and they have 2 regulators normally because the tank needs to be away from the home so the tank pressure is reduced by a first stage sent to the house and then reduced again by a 2nd stage.
If you have the wrong size regulator at the tanks the system won’t work well because of restrictions in the plumbing.


Replacing light switch with dimmer switch... white wire?

Since the 4 white wires are already connected, they need to stay connected.  It would be correct to wire all 6 whites together.  Note that for 6x #14 wires you need to use a new red wire nut.


Is there a benefit to having a switch control an outlet?

It's in the Building and Electrical Codes
You may have noticed that you can walk into a room that you've never been in before, and reach for a light switch, your hand has a really good chance of finding it.  It's almost like magic, and it's so universal that people take it for granted.
Actually, it's no accident.  It's required by both the electrical and the building codes. Every room must have a light, and the light must be operated in a switch located at -- well, your hand knows.
Here's another non-accident. Ever go up a stairway, go the first couple of steps and then your feet just know what to do?  That's because of a rule that says on a stairway, every step's rise and run must be identical.  This is what happens if it's not.
This is one of literally a thousand rules in the Building Codes designed to keep people safe.
A switched receptacle is allowed as a substitute for an overhead light
Normally, Codes require that the light switch operate an overhead light or other built-in lights - sconces, cove lighting, etc.  However, builders lobbied to get an exception to allow a switched receptacle instead -- on the presumption that someone would plug a floor lamp into that receptacle, and be contented with that as the room light, and switch the light only at the switch.
The reason builders wanted this is, it's cheaper.
Of course, this is a bad plan for exactly the reasons you are observing - #1 people will switch the light off at the light, and #2 it renders the receptacle unusable as a plain receptacle.  This is especially bad with the consumer electronics revolution, where people have an exponentially increasing number of things to plug in other than lamps.
Unfortunately, you only have 2 options for eliminating the receptacles.

If the wiring permits, convert the receptacle to a half-switched -- meaning one of the 2 sockets will be switched by the light, and the other will not.
Install an overhead light, sconces, cove lighting etc. hardwired into the room, and rewire the circuit so the switch operates the overhead light instead of the receptacle.  The overhead light will satisfy the Code requirements for a functional room light.


After another attempt, I succeeded. I reoriented the crescent wrench in the opposite direction (concave side away from me) and pulled towards me. I believe this gave me more leverage is it was significantly easier to turn.

Other ideas that I ended up not trying but may help as well:

Getting an extra large crescent wrench (expensive).
Getting a tool with linear slot that fits over the valve's knob which appears to be created for opening valves.
(Rob's suggestion) As the valve is located outdoors, there was a bit of rust or dirt that can add friction to the valve. Using PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench can help loosen things up. (NB: please check if this is safe)


Advice on adding a LPG Gas Boiler on Central Heating System with a Hot Water Storage Tank heated with Solar Panels

I have no experience working with your type heating system but worked in the boiler business, heating and process applications, for 40+ years. My recommendation would be something like this; install the boiler into the hot water system using 3 way zone valves for connection and isolation, or 2 way zone valves for isolation, and a primary/secondary loop arrangement, and a 2 stage thermostat or 2 thermostats if you prefer. The first stage would control the solar system and the second stage would open the zone valves, and power the boiler's circulating pump through a relay, allowing the boiler to add heat to the circulating water as needed. The boiler would only add as much temperature to the water as needed, while still allowing the storage water to produce some of the heating. An outdoor reset control could be utilized to keep the boiler from overheating the water in the loop. Control of the whole system would be of your own choosing. Hope this helps


Those overhead clear panels are assuredly not the standard single thickness window glass. If glass is used in an application like this it is going to have to be a tempered glass. Thickness required would be dependent upon the width and length if each panel. I would not be surprised to find glass being close to 3/8" if not even 1/2" thick.
Glass panels like that are extremely heavy and the framing structure to hold it in place will be substantial.
If you do some research you may find that the pictured patio cover is not glass at all but instead made up of clear acrylic panels. This would be much lower weight and be in line with the type of framing structure showing in your picture. Do an image search on Google with "clear acrylic patio roof" and you will see many examples that look a lot like the picture that you show.


My child flushed a flashlight down the toilet, how do I get it out?

The first (and most likely) place it's stuck is at the top bend inside the toilet. That's usually a rather tight turn. The second place is at the bottom, either above or below the floor flange. The bend going into the house drain stack is usually fairly gentle but there are ridges that can catch larger objects.

In short, there is no simple way to answer "where". The low-cost route is go and buy a wax ring, then pull the tank and bowl. you can then look up the toilet's internal trap and see if it's wedged in there, and stand a reasonable chance of getting it out with a wire.

If the flashlight is not in the toilet you will need to call a plumber. Get one with a fiberscope, not just a power auger - this isn't a blockage you can chop up and send down the pipe, you need to find it and extract it. We are not concerned about getting the light back, we are concerned it doesn't get stuck somewhere more expensive, like under the back lawn.


Since you've just replaced the sensors, that's where I'd start looking for problems. When you say "I checked the wiring, which looks good.", I'm not sure what that means. While physically examining the wire and connections is a good start, you might have to get out your trusty multimeter and take some readings.

Start by listening to the opener. If you press the button and the motor turns on then off, that means the opener is receiving proper signals from the opener.  If the motor makes no noise, start by checking the opener button and the opener itself.

If it does make noise, start by making sure the door is free in the tracks. Disengage the opener from the door; which is often done by pulling a small plastic handle attached to a rope, and verify that you can manually open and close the door with little resistance.

Check the manufacturers documentation for both the opener and the new sensors, and verify that they are compatible with each other. Also check the openers documentation for error code description and method of display, and troubleshooting steps.  If the sensors on my system detect an object in the way when the door wants to close, the opener flashes the main light 3 times.

Take a closer look at the devices (sensors and opener), and note the voltages, amperage, and resistances involved. Then use your multimeter to verify that the sensors are sending the proper signals to the opener.

If the sensors check out, you'll want to do the same procedure with the opener button.  Make sure the button sends the proper signals for both the up, and down commands.

Once all sensors and switches have been investigated, it's time to look at the opener itself.  Check the control board for visible damage, loose wiring, bad/blown fuses, incorrectly toggled dip switches, or other obvious faults. Use your multimeter to verify all electrons are in their proper locations, and that they flow from one place to another as they should.


I would treat it as it is asbestos. Old coal heater is my clue. It really needs to be removed or encapsulated at least. It can be tested, but I bet the results would be positive for asbestos, remediation can be costly...


How to attach rebar to a sheet of metal?

Your intentions aren't entirely clear, but here are some general ideas:

U-bolt clamps through holes in the sheet and around the bar
Hose clamps through slots in the sheet and around the bar
Wire through holes in the sheet and around the bar
A friend with a welder (though the dissimilar metals make this challenging)
Bolts through the rebar and the sheet
Screws through the sheet and into the rebar
Wire around the bar from below the sheet to above


New pre hung interior door is 28" and the old area was 29 11/26 is this too big of an area to use this door?

Is this a split jamb door with the casing already attached?  If so, then if the casing hides the gap with room left on the outer edge of the casing to fasten, the door will work fine for the rough opening.  The most important part of the installation (other than plumb & level) is that you cut or otherwise use snug-fitting shims frequently -at least, one shim behind every hinge, one shim near the door strike with one or two more above and below the door strike.  You can't overdo it, good shimming is what keeps the door in place through the years.  Important: make sure to put a nail, or better yet a trim screw, through the jamb, through the shim, and solidly into the framing.  After that, nail the casing, fill, caulk and paint, and you're all set.


How to protect outside cable wire from myself?

If this is a cable TV wire, your best solution is to get it re-run properly by the cable TV company. Unfortunately, that sometimes can only be arranged by figuring out when it would be least inconvenient to you to have the cable out for a while and then running over it with the mower, etc - at least in my experience they are good at coming to fix stuff, bad at fixing it when it ain't broke. Your Mileage May Vary.

Now, if you'd like it run in conduit this time, they are not going to go there, but they generally won't mind if you do, so you might run the conduit (presumably in the "not all the way around the house direction" unless there's some good reason for that) before you mow the lawn and hit the improperly installed cable. If you can avoid most of the around the house run by having an inside the basement run, go ahead and run that cable (they won't do inside cable work, for the most part) and have it handy for connecting to their new cable.

I had a ridiculous replacement cable run when our old one filled up with ice at a bad connector, and for obvious and understandable reasons the installer did not want to run a new one where the old one was going along the icy roof, so he tossed one over the edge and down the outside of the building to the ground. That installer suggested calling back when things were warmer to have a better one placed, or getting an inside cable run and calling back to avoid the roof entirely. I had the inside cable run, called back, and they would not come switch it over; so it sat for several years until I next had a problem with the cable service they would come fix, at which point the installer was happy to switch to the inside cable. I did not actually attack the dubious cable, but I considered it...


Replacing an Apartment Light Fixture that has a Built-In Switch

Flicking the overhead light might give a voltage transient which starts the fluorescent light. The most you should do in a rental apartment would be to change the bulb. If this is a compact fluorescent with a screw base (and the fixture does not have a build in ballast), you could replace the the fluorescent bulb with an LED. Otherwise ask the management to put in a new fluorescent bulb or you do it. In my youth I got in trouble by messing with fixtures in a rental apartment.

If you are sure that the light is not controlled by a wall switch, I advise you to return the light fixture which has no switch. There is no good way to add a switch.  If you want to change the fixture, get the apartment management to install one of the ceramic bases which has a pull chain. Put an LED bulb in it.

EDIT
The fact that your landlord encourages you to make repairs changes my opinion of your changing the fixture. Until you get one though I would change the bulb.

I presume you have access to the breakers to shut off the breaker to this circuit. Now you can shop for a fixture which will have a switch. Is this mounted high so that a pull chain is needed or can you reach it so that a mounted switch would work?


Installation of a GFCI without a ground wire

Short answer: No you don't need a ground wire. The code lets you replace the two wire receptacle with a GFCI.

From the 2011 National Electrical Code

  406.4(D)(2)(b) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a ground-fault circuit interrupter-type of receptacle(s). These receptacles shall be marked “No Equipment Ground.” An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter-type receptacle to any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter receptacle.


If it's going on a smooth soft surface the clear stuff is fine.  Over rocks or large gravel, the yellow would be better.


How are electric range drip pans measured?

The drip pans are measured using the diameter of the hole in the range. There are many different styles so your best bet would be to take the old pan with you to your home store and get a match making sure where the electrical plug hole is located and that the burner supports will fit into the pan. You might be able to order them from the manufacturer or an appliance store.


How to diagnose a lightswitch that appears to do nothing

A switch is required by code in most places for most rooms - that way you automatically know how to easily turn on the light. But code does not (generally) mandate a particular lighting method, so many builders don't bother to put in the light fixture and just connect the switch to a receptacle for the homeowner to plug in a lamp. One of the first things I did after moving into my house (and I was not the first owner - people just don't realize they can change things, I guess) was to have ceiling lights installed in the bedrooms and connect the existing switches to them and disconnect the switches from the receptacles.
Three likely possibilities:

The switch was disconnected from whatever it originally switched. This could be an originally switched receptacle or it could be the ceiling fixture - e.g., to always be able to use the remote and not have a problem of being unable to turn it on with the remote because somebody had turned off the switch. If that's the case then if you open the switch you will either find no wires connected to the switch (i.e., disconnected from the switch and now bypassing the switch) or wires connected to the switch but none of them with any power (i.e., a non-contact voltage tester will show nothing on any of the wires).

The switch is supposed to control half of a receptacle. The receptacle was replaced at some time (to fix a broken receptacle, or for a different color to match new paint, or whatever) and the tab connecting the top & bottom hot screws was not removed.

The switch is supposed to control an entire receptacle. The wiring was redone at the receptacle at some time in order to make the receptacle always hot but the switch wires were left in place.


What's the best way to deal with the floor of a shed with water infiltration?

I would start by digging a trench and filling with gravel / small stones to direct the water away as much as possible.
Did that at the back of my property - started at 6" deep and went to 12" as it needs a small slope. directed the water into an existing drain and it worked a treat. Only took 2 afternoons of digging and measuring the slope.
Edit: if the property is the lowest part of the surrounding land then another possibility is to dig a soakaway to help the drainage. Any method of reducing the amount of water to deal with at the building will help.


Electrolux vacuum lightbulb keeps burning out?

It looks like its a B15 bayonet base, try https://www.ecolume.co.uk see if they have one in LED.


What does the lead content statement on my reducing valve actually mean?

This is simply a statement by the manufacturer of the lead content in the valve material that could contact the water running through it. The composition of a solid material is expressed by % weight in this example. .25% is considered "lead free" in the U.S.

The amount of lead "leached" into drinking water cannot be perfectly predicted due to so many variables (water chemistry, temperature, velocity, etc.) so there are limits on lead content of the components.

The U.S. EPA says this: "Section 1417 of the Safe Drinking Water Act (SDWA) establishes the definition for “lead free” as a weighted average of 0.25% lead calculated across the wetted surfaces of a pipe, pipe fitting, plumbing fitting, and fixture..."

EPA prohibits the "use of any pipe, any pipe or plumbing fitting or fixture, any solder, or any flux, after June 1986, in the installation or repair of (i) any public water system; or (ii) any plumbing in a residential or non-residential facility providing water for human consumption, that is not lead free.”


Should a stove flue be grounded for lightning protection?

A lightning protection system is a building wide system.

You don't just protect things individually.

The ridgeline of your house would get air terminals and then if the antenna and chimney are within the "zone of influence" (lightning protection term) they would be bonded to the system.

If your house is less than 50' tall and you are not in an extremely high strike area (central Florida), I wouldn't bother. Usually very tall barns are the only residential buildings that get lightning protection.

Good luck!


As you can see mine shows replace by April 2026 although I didn’t buy them until end of Aug 2018 and fitted them a couple of months later. I’d better start saving up for the next ones now!

So i didn’t get the full product at a discounted price, simply received a reduced lifetime at a higher prorata cost :(

Can’t tell you about the end of life nagging but i suggest all potential customers wait till my 2026 expiry, when i will be able to give clarity. before buying unless Nest want to answer your question sooner?


Best review sites/web resources for finding a contractor?

I have used ServiceMagic (http://www.servicemagic.com/) in the past and been pretty happy with the results (I was able to find a good electrician through it), but that was along with checking up on the contractor through a Google search.  I wouldn't just trust a ServiceMagic reference without being able to find some other proof of the quality of the contractor.  I do not have a specific list but usually if the contractor has a quality website, business license, 800 phone number, etc. then they get some points toward being awarded my business.


Most likely, the doorbell button has failed.

There will always be voltage across the doorbell button unless it is pushed.  That's because the circuit would be complete, but for the button.  I would expect to see 18 volts (or bare transformer voltage), but with an electronic chime, I could see that value being a little funny.

You can test this out; short the 2 wires to the doorbell, that is the same as ringing the doorbell.


What should I check when troubleshooting a doorbell?

From the description of odd voltage readings, and the fact that you shorted the connection and still couldn't get the bell to ring, I'm guessing the transformer failed. It wouldn't be the door bell button or that wiring since you eliminated that with the shorting. And since you later tested with another power source and verified that the door bell chimes work, that's also eliminated as a possible failure. The only other thing except for the transformer it could be is the wiring from the transformer to your door bell chimes, but that can be a lot more difficult to repair, depending on how far apart the transformer and chimes are. You can double check the wiring by disconnecting it, shorting one side, and checking the ohm reading with your multi-meter on the other side.

You can pick one up relatively inexpensively from the home improvement store, so I'd start there. Make sure to turn the breaker off before touching anything that's connected to the house wiring, and always test the wires for voltage before touching them. I wouldn't bother with repairing the transformer, they're easy and cheap to replace, but hard to repair.


How often should ducts / furnaces be cleaned?

I rely on keeping the inlet filters clean ( change every month or two) ,so very little dirt gets into the ducts. When replacing the AC evaporator coil ( and the rest of the furnace after 25 years) I did not notice anything on it , although did not examine it.


Wiring 3-way switch (power at light and switches meeting in junction box)

A picture is worth a thousand words. This picture only applies to existing wiring, not new construction.

Here is the link for the picture:
https://www.how-to-wire-it.com/images/3-way-power-at-light2.jpg

If there is an additional box for the light and the power enters there also, then the power white wire would be hooked up to the light, the power black wire would be hooked up to the black wire of the 14/2 which would be connected to the black wire that goes to the switch on the right of my diagram. The white wire of the 14/2 would go to the "hot" side of the fixture and be marked with some red tape and the other end would go the black wire from the switch on the left of my diagram and also be marked with red tape. The travelers should be marked with yellow tape .
If this is new construction, then all switch locations must have a neutral. The cables from the switch boxes to the junction box must be /4 and from the junction box to the light fixture /3. The neutrals can just be capped in the switch boxes.


What are drawbacks of installing outdoor sediment filters this way?

This is a pretty common setup to get high flow from smaller, cheaper filters. Two 10 gpm filters can be used to effectively get 20 gpm overall flow.

In this particular install the flex pipes, mix of galvanized and brass parts, and lack of shut-off valves and pressure gauges screams amateur installation to me, but I don't see anything that prevents it from working.


Most vinyl is rolled. A quick wipe on the outside it will be fine. The bigger question is will the home be at the correct tempature for the glue or adhesive's to set. Another question is was the sub floor sealed some of these things are more important than a few rain drops. IMHO.


Cap off the neutral wire

Despite being neutral, it can have lethal or fire-starting currents on it.  (not least if your utility's drop wire has a problem). That's why neutral wires have insulation.

Your situation is not uncommon; range tops have no need for the neutral wire.   Generally ovens and ranges are entirely 240V beasts.  The only reason they ever wanted neutral is to have 120V available, to allow you to use a cheap, common incandescent light for the oven light, and sometimes for a 120V clock or electronics, and sometimes for a convenience receptacle on the oven.  (old incandescents inside a 500 degree oven are as happy as Br'er Rabbit in the briar patch).  Obviously, cooktops don't have oven lights, electronics have evolved to where they work fine on 240V, and UL won't let them fit convenience receptacles anymore.


What is the easiest way to cut a 2 inch groove in concrete?

I'd try to go through the slab and then below it.  Most slabs are 6" thick with gravel underneath.

You can rent a concrete core drill for around $60 from home depot. Stick a hole in your slab.

Then you can use something called a 'sidewalk sleever' to tunnel under the slab.  Then install pipe (a little tricky due to the elbow, and fill your hole back up with gravel.

The end result will be much prettier and do less damage to your slab.


Replacing a ceiling rose with a led light without using wire connectors

Taping wires (rather than using proper wire connectors) is a recipe for burning your house down.

Whether it's just two wires or a whole bunch, a taped connection is prone to loosen, and arc, and start fires.

Don't know where you are in the world, but virtually any place with any sort of electrical code, that method will not pass. Regardless of code, you should be interested in not setting your house on fire. Interested enough to use a proper connector type available and approved in your part of the world, rather than "not understanding" but choosing to do electrical work anyway...


Installation of Polystyrene External Wall Insulation - over old render?

If you want the job done properly (minimize the risk of any potential problems later on down the road), get the existing render removed, install your new external wall system, then apply new render to your new external wall.


Do my HVAC ducts need to hang away from floor joists?

You should consider switching to low profile hvac duct.  You can get a wider version that is shorter but carries the same air.  If you can't find something off the shelf an hvac professional can design/fabricate one that will work.  Won't hurt you to get a quote and see what your hvac guy can do for you.  Would be a shame to put the effort into finishing a basement and have crazy bulkheads running everywhere.


Are pressure-treated posts that have been submerged for a few days ruined?

Pressure treated wood can handle submersion. Many folks just pack rock around the post, so they are always in water after rain. You should be fine to go ahead and pour your concrete with no worries.


Voltages of floated outputs of an isolated transformer

That there is no galvanic connection to earth does not mean there is no capacitative connection to earth. E.g. the transformer windings build a capacitance if the core is earthed. Wires could run close to grounded parts etc. This capacitative source impedance should be rather big, i.e. if a device of 20 or more Watt is connected to a phase and Earth, the voltage must drop.


First you need to clean the wall thoroughly.  It's always a good idea to clean your walls prior to painting because they pick up grime over time which will prevent the new coat of paint from adhering properly.  In a kitchen, stains are more likely to be caused by splashes from food, so they could be greasy so it's even more important to clean first.  Use TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) soap if you can find it; if not, there are enzyme-based substitutes that you can use which are OK.

You should sand the old primer, but not enough to remove it from the wall.  You only want to roughen the surface so that the new primer has a better surface to hold onto.  Make sure to wear a dust mask while you're sanding.  Rub the wall lightly all over with sandpaper or a sanding sponge (which I use because they're washable and re-usable).  You should see light scratches on the paint.

After you sand, be sure to wipe down the walls with a damp cloth to remove any dust from the sanding.

Finally, look for "stain-blocking primer". Make sure that the primer you choose will work with the type of paint -- oil-based or water-based (aka latex paint) -- that you're going to put over it. I've used Kilz to good effect; other people on this site recommend Zinnser Bullseye 1-2-3


How can I run Cat5e cable through a completely finished house?

This has been discussed many times on this site and maybe even a few times on Server Fault.
Step 1: The plan
Come up with a plan - how many drops per room? Where will you terminate all the wires back to? Are there clear path's from floor to floor via the walls? ie: is there an empty part of the wall on the first floor but not on the 2nd floor? Do interior walls line up from floor to floor? Running wire through exterior walls will be more difficult as they contain insulation.
Step 2: Find the framing
Get a damn good stud finder and a pencil and start marking studs and measuring from exterior walls to make sure you end up strait as you go from floor to floor. Do this in the basement also - find the floor joist for where your drops come through in the basement and mark them.
Step 3: Execute
Assuming all the paths are clear, start cutting / drilling. Use a 6 foot flexible drill bit. Cut a box on the first floor for your first set of drops. Drill down through that into the basement.
Directly above this box, cut an access hole about 6-8 inches from the ceiling big enough to get the drill bit through it - about 4 or 5 inches square (square will be easier to patch later on)
Goto the 2nd floor - cut your next box for your 2nd set of drops. Its easier to fish wire down then up, so I would start on the 1st floor, put the fish tape into the access hole at the ceiling, find it in the box hole on the 2nd floor, attach your 4 lines to it and pull the fish tape down. On the 1st floor, fish the tape up from the box hole to the access hole, connect the lines to the tape and pull down. And again, goto the basement, find the hole, fish the tape up to the box hole on the first floor, attach the lines and pull down.
Now that your in the basement, run the lines to your network closet - leave enough extra wire per drop to make sure everything reaches - rinse repeat.
When your all done, everything punched down, start patching your drywall holes.
You can do this by yourself but would be a lot easier with 2 people
Lots of time and multiple boxes of cable. 1 box of 1000 feet wont help you, you'll be fishing each line individually and if you precut them, you may waste wire; get some small boxes of 250-500 ft and run all 4 lines at 1 time.
Equipment required:

Drill
Flexible drill bit
Utility knife
Fish tape
Electrical tape (to attach network cable to fish tape)
A TON of patience.


How should I treat outdoor wooden stairs to preserve them?

You would want to treat them with a waterproofing/sealer first and then wait the required dry time before painting them.
You might be better off staining them brown. Stairs take  beating and paint might just crack and peel off.  There are a lot of stain/sealers out there to choose from.


How do I remove plastic shelving molly clips?

Leave it in place, use masking tape, paint around it....


Can one cut the interior sill off a vinyl window flush with the wall surface?

Unless you get into either the mechanism or the seals of the window you can carve it up however you like. It's unlikely to be a structural concern.
Actually, that sill probably isn't part of the window to begin with. Jambs, stops, and sills are usually not part of the package. If it is part of the actual window, you may find a hollow which you'll have to cover with your desk or other trim.
If you decide to go forward, cut the caulk and/or paint all the way around that sill piece and give it a tap upward with a hammer. It may come free so you can remove it, run it through a table saw, and reinstall it. A fine bead of white painters caulk will have it back in place like new.


How to connect my electric Ikea cooking plate?

Your first picture shows a diagram on the junction box, where two screwdrivers are prying in certain spots to get it open.


How to repair / reinforce deteriorated footings and subsoil below brick & concrete porch

It looks like somebody tried to lower the basement floor, going about it in a most dangerous way. With that much dirt removed from beside the foundation is a seriously wrong move, I am glad to see it is still up with not much settling. The cracks you show are minor compared to what I have seen in homes that have simply settled or shifted for one reason or another. You need to have a company come in that specializes in underpinning


How do I open windows that are painted closed?

If your windows have a little bit of play, pull down first. You can pull down much harder than you can push up, without damaging the window. Once you hear the pop of the paint freeing, you can push up normally. I'll even put all the force on one side and then another.

You'll still want to cut away any obvious locations where the paint is sticking, but if your windows are anything like mine, this problem will be a reoccurring because the paint can get into the track itself and readhere over time. I've been dealing with windows that stick for many years now, one of the gifts of a prior home owner that wasn't careful enough. The only thing I haven't done yet is to hit the windows with some silicone lubricant to see if that would help.


Can an electrical subpanel be directly mounted to a hvac supply plenum?

Can an electrical sub panel be directly mounted to an HVAC supply plenum?

Yes.

Just don't be sloppy about it.  It needs to be mounted securely.  So consider using a plywood backing, or adequate fasteners such that it is not going to fall off if someone bumps into it.

Also, ensure that no air from the plenum is vented into the sub-panel to isolate the sub-panel from condensation; and that the sub-panel will not be exposed to temperatures outside its limits.


What technique(s) is recommended for waterproofing exterior foundation walls?

Before going through the waterproofing hassle, do check your gutters again. Even though it's the gable end, you want to make sure your downspouts elsewhere are carrying the water away from the foundation as far as they can.

Then, check the slope of the ground. Is it sufficiently sloping AWAY from the foundation? If not, fix that too.

After that, if you still have issues, if you're going to be digging out the foundation, you definitely want to consider a drain tile system while you're down there. That typically has to go near the footer, so be careful doing that (you'll likely want to consult an expert before digging out the footer.)

At that point, the typical waterproofing system is some form of a rubber membrane then covered with dimple-board. The dimple board protects the membrane from the backfill and also acts as a drainage plane into the drain tile system.


Can I run CAT6 FTP cables parallel to electrical cable in the same conduit?

Absolutely not.

Low voltage (LV) and mains cannot share a conduit.

Further, you cannot attach anything else to the outside of the electrical conduit.  So forget about ty-wrapping the LV cable to the  outside of the conduit...


4-way switch - common wires are not normal

It sounds like the voltage tester has issues.  There are other ways to identify the wires.

Usually 3/4-way complexes are a mess (not least because the wire color does not correspond to the purpose in any way). But your 4-way switch makes this surprisingly simple: both pairs of messengers are on the red+black wires.

So go to the remaining 3-ways.  Find the red+black pair that goes into the same cable: those are the messengers. The remaining wire is the always-hot or switched-hot.

You will also note the messengers are on brass screws, and the always-hot or switched-hot is on the black screw.


Slab on grade is probably the kind of pour you are referring to.

The problem is only partially one of lifting the slab, the other half is having the slab rest again on the grade.

These kinds of concrete pours fill all the irregularities of the ground they are poured upon.  If one could lift the slab without slab damage, the setting of the slab on a new position of the grade would likely not match the irregularities in the same exact positions.  This means your slab would be unsupported in some spots, and have new pressure points in others.

While one would hope that the weight of the slab pushes down the high points.  In reality, the weight of the slab does so by bending at the high points while applying pressure.  Since typical formulations of concrete aren't designed to be heavily flexible, the bending introduces fractures and causes premature failure of the slab.

I would look into augmenting the existing slab without attempting to move it.


What nails or screws to use to support 600 pounds max? Making tree house bed

Common 3-1/2" gold construction screws (of good quality) are good for 50# or more each when used in solid lumber and penetration is at least 1-1/2". Dividing your bed into two ends, you'll need 6 screws per end to hit your load rating. Considering that you'll probably anchor it along the side as well, you'll have more than adequate support.

Do not use nails for anything that's not intended to be permanent, nor for anything where pullout resistance is critical.

Disclaimer: This assessment is based on several decades of construction and home ownership experience, and not any particular specification or product rating.


What is this copper-looking wire on my light fixture?

I'm almost certain it is the ground wire. Do not remove it.

If you were to open the light fixture, there should be a screw where one end of the ground wire is attached. Then, mounted in the ceiling is a metal box through which is fed all the electrical wiring. There's a screw on the ceiling box that the other end of the ground wire is attached.

  Thank you. A natural follow-up question to this, since the original intent was to remove the distracting copper wire for aesthetic reasons, is: will the ground wire be less effective if it is painted or somehow covered to match the rest of the fixture?

Adding paint is essentially adding a layer of insulation to the wire. Since insulated wire still conducts electricity, a painted ground wire will be just as effective (i.e., conductive) as one that lacks an exterior coat of paint. You simply want to ensure that you do not paint over the location where it is attached to the screw on both ends (it needs metal-on-metal contact).


You can't tell by looks - get a lead testing kit.

If you knew for sure that the paint was 100 years old that would significantly increase the chances of it being lead-based. But it could be that the wall was originally bare brick and painted relatively recently.


Ballcock-like mechanism for infinite cycles

What about a "Pythagorean cup" style of device?

from Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_cup
The cup consists of a bowl with a tube in an inverted U-shape. Once the bowl fills beyond the top of the U-tube (step C above) it starts a siphon which drains the volume of the bowl until the siphon breaks. As long as the siphon flow is faster than the inflow, you'll have the behavior you describe - slow, continuous filling, and periodic discharge of a fixed amount of water. The bonus is that there are no moving parts!
As an aside, this is essentially the mechanism that powers the siphon in the bowl (not the tank) of the toilet...


Looking at the top back of the sink, there are two screw holes provided, but these are for location not full weight bearing.

Having removed a similar sink in the past, there should be two (ornate) cast iron arms which may also double as towel rails which are secured to the wall and support the weight of the sink.

Another version would have two posts that came up from the floor to the side/front of the sink, there may be evidence of fixing points if you look - the picture does not show us. You might consider an under-sink cupboard with short support posts...

If you don't have those arms or posts then you will need to make something equivalent as you will not be able to rely on those two screw holes.

You might find some searching on google etc will provide images of similar sinks with the supports shown.


Is there any significant loss of cooling efficiency to wrap the both sunction line and liquid line together using one single insulator?

I have not seen this done. I thought the return suction line was supposed to be cold to help cool the compressor. There is no need to wrap the high pressure liquid line at all.


What fire hazard considerations are there when creating a cable hole between rooms?

To the best of my knowledge, the only fire retardation requirements that exist for a residence apply to slowing the spread of fire between connected units - say in a duplex or row home.

In the case of your personal dwelling, there is almost no way to restrict the spread of fire within a residence without making it extremely inconvenient to navigate in your own home.

Now if you installed fire proof doors between every room, with airtight seals (ie: like your exterior doors), and fire retardant barriers like cinder block and fire-resistant foam between the walls, then your concern over putting a hole in your wall would be relatively worth considering, but I suspect that like most homes, these other barriers do not exist on the inside of your home, and so you're worrying over something that, in the grand scale of overall fire safety, won't amount to much.


How can I tell what kind of paint is on my stucco?

DO NOT ever use elastomeric paint on stucco.....Stucco needs to breathe.... in truth stucco should never be "painted" at all.  It needs to be lime washed or mineral coated.  This actually bonds chemically to the stone and will breathe, not mold/mildew because of the alkalinity, and fill in small cracks. Minerals can last 50+ years, Lime wash less.  Also you need to know what the stucco is made from, Lime, Portland cement, ???  that will determine what will bond to it.  The lime wash is super inexpensive but doesn't last as long as the mineral silicate.

The new mineral paint will adhere to previously painted stucco.
check out ROMA BIO or KEIM.

Power wash it hard then mineral coat it, they now can match color, it will be beautiful.  Also the mineral coatings slightly reflect light so the color has life like the sun is on it.

I learn all this when I bought a untouched 1920 stucco house.

BTW elastomeric paint is forbidden to be used on listed historic buildings as they found that it causes them to mold.  It traps water.  check out the GSA guidelines and united masons websites they go into detail what should be done.


Remove cam lock pushed the wrong way into Ikea furniture

Sometimes you can knock them out by striking the wood furniture next to the hole, either with your hand or with a hammer. If using a hammer, put a small piece of wood (like, a chunk of 2x4) against your furniture, then strike this wood. That way it won't mess up the finish on your furniture.

Just a few taps. Don't hit it so hard that you break your other connections! :)

Sometimes it works to hit the same face of the wood which has the hole drilled into it (right next to the hole). Other times it works if works if you tap the furniture directly behind the hole where the nut is buried. Give them both a try.


How can I add a window to my front door?

In a traditional panel door construction, the panels are held in grooves cut into the rails (horizontal pieces) and stiles (vertical side pieces). The rails and stiles are doweled and firmly glued together, and it is impossible to take them apart without ruining them. The panels are not glued in place, so they can expand and contract with the heat or humidity, without changing the overall dimensions of the door.

If you want to try to replace one of the panels with a glass or perspex pane, you must carefully cut away the molding from one side of the panel. (You should cut on the outside of the door because windows are traditionally caulked on the outside.) Remove the wooden panel and use a chisel and sandpaper to clean up the opening.

The steps, in cross-section:

Then you can install your pane using standard glazing technique.

You might also want to replace a damaged wooden panel with another wooden panel. In that case, instead of caulking you would install milled wooden strips, such as quarter-round or very small crown molding, to hold the new panel while allowing for expansion etc.

One problem you will have is figuring out how much molding to cut away. You should carefully carve material away, about halfway along one edge, until you can see the edge of the panel, then extend the measurement to the corners.

Alternately you may be able to break the panel and remove it without damaging the door. Cut out most of the panel with a jigsaw, notch the remaining frame almost to the molding in several places, and break out the remaining pieces. Once you have wrenched out the first piece, the others will come out quite easily. Then you can measure the depth of the groove directly and decide how much to cut away.

I would call this an advanced-level project, because the results of your carpentry -- joinery, really -- and your glazing will be highly visible and in your face every time you enter or leave your house.

If you have some artistic design or special effect in mind the results can be worth the effort. But if you only want to get some more light into the place, just buy a new door.


Will this ductwork for my range hood work?

One way to resolve this is to transition from 6” to 5” duct in ceiling space. Dropping below ceiling with 5” duct will give you another 1/2” clearance from the wall.
The reduced size duct on a short run from blower to ceiling probably has a minor impact on airflow. 6” duct is rated for  up to 600 cfm. If your blower is pushing 400-500  there is no significant impact to airflow.  If it is pushing 600 or more there will be a bit  of extra noise.  If it is well over 600cfm your duct is too small .


Do low voltage wires need to go in a junction box

It's not required, but there's no harm in doing so. I'd mostly detach them from the yellow cable and bring the nuts up above the insulation level in case you need to find them later.


Connecting circuit with two hots to breaker(s)

It's known as a multi-wire branch circuit, and it's perfectly legit.  The two ungrounded (hot) conductors terminate at breakers on opposite legs of the service, and share a grounded (neutral) conductor.

Since it's 14 AWG wire, you're correct that they should be 15 ampere breakers.

Do not connect both wires to the same single pole breaker.


Best way to fix gate post over foundation that extends

It's very common where I come from (New Zealand) to Dynabolt the gate or fence post directly to a brick, block or rendered wall.
I have about 4 of them in various places around my 1960's render over concrete block house
As long as the size of the Dynabolt is appropriate there should be no significant weakening of the brick(s) you drill into. There are variations of these Dynabolts that are chem-set into the wall/brick/block with Epoxy, one of these would in theory further reduce any negliable impact in the integrity of the brick.


Conflicting Information Between Electrician and Home Inspector?

There are others who know the code better than I, but the code allows for some variation from the wall surface by up to a 1/4" max, and there are extensions that will help get past ones that are set too far in. That is a con play.

As far as the wires on the joists, it looks like your attic is not meant for storage. If not the wires can run on top of the joists that I am aware of. There is a requirement for space below rafters that help dictate the rule if the attic is usable for storage, let alone the sizing of the ceiling joists


How can I move the neutral-ground bond to my house from the pole?

Yes, but only if you have a single, non-fused switching means at the pole, not a panel

You can do this if and only if the switch at the pole is a single switching means (fault-rated, non-fused disconnect switch), not any sort of panelboard, enclosed breaker, or fused switch.  In this case, the switch at the pole becomes a hot-sequence meter disconnect (as opposed to the service disconnecting means), and is permitted by NEC 230.82(3):

  (3) Meter disconnect switches nominally rated not in excess of 1000V that have a short-circuit current rating equal to or greater than the available short-circuit current, provided that all metal housings and service enclosures are grounded in accordance with Part VII and bonded in accordance with Part V of Article 250.  A meter disconnect switch shall be capable of interrupting the load served.  A meter disconnect shall be legibly field marked on its exterior in a manner suitable for the environment as follows:

                              METER DISCONNECT
                            NOT SERVICE EQUIPMENT

This may require consultation with the AHJ and/or utility -- they may require such a disconnect to be installed cold sequence i.e. ahead of the meter instead.  This is normally only seen on socket-metered 480V services where yanking the meter out of its socket under load is a good way to get yourself roasted by arc flash, but nothing in the NEC prohibits a meter disconnect on a 120/240V service.


Do I need to nail crown molding to ceiling

Yes you definitely need to nail your crown molding into the ceiling joists as well it will prevent the top edge that is attached to the ceiling from sagging over time. I've done trim carpentry for ever 20 years.


replacing double switch old cable colours

It looks like you need the red wire into one of the COM terminals, with the red loop from there to the other COM terminal. Then the yellow wire into one of the 1 way terminals and the blue wire into the other 1 way terminal.

Leave the red tape on the blue and yellow wires to show that they are switched live.


Is white paint the same color regardless of the company?

No two whites are the same.  In fact, sometimes two tins of the same color from the same company can be different! This is why if you are painting large areas, it is best to blend the cans together.


Take the dimmer out of the equation

Try turning off the breaker, removing the dimmer from the circuit, wirenutting the two hot leads that went to the dimmer together, and turning the breaker back on.  If the lights come on, then you need a new dimmer.  If they still don't work, I'd look for a faulty connection somewhere.


How can I get roof rain runoff into pond with an aboveground wall?

I would build a decorative arbor over the path. Its purpose would be to camouflage a basic gutter and downspout arrangement that dumps into the pond. Simple as can be.

Image source


Two shaver sockets on same circuit with extractor fan

the extractor fan lasted about 3 weeks before buzzing and then completely failing (but still buzzing)

Perhaps a bearing seized up, It is probably a small extractor fan and is easily replaced at low cost. You can do it yourself if you follow basic electrical safety procedures.

I replaced a noisy (but still working) bathroom extractor fan with another of the same make and model which also started to become noisy after a few weeks. I then replaced it with another make (Manrose Gold - "Long lasting ball bearing motor".) which is still working fine and does its job quietly and reliably.

I conclude there are good makes and bad makes of bathroom extractor fan. It may depend on which factory in china they use and who does the quality assurance. I suggest you don't buy the cheapest you can find.

  did the two shaver sockets destroy the extractor fan?

It was probably a coincidence.

  Does the extractor need to be on a separate circuit?

No.

The total expected load on a circuit should be less than the maximum allowed for the wire cross-sectional area and less than the rating of the circuit breaker for that circuit.

Charging a toothbrush probably takes a very very small current, maybe 0.01 Amps. This should not be a problem.

A 20W extractor fan on a 230V lighting circuit needs about 0.1 Amps. This also is a pretty small load and not worth installing a separate circuit for.

Your lighting circuit is probably rated for 5 Amps total load.


Water heater drain pan pump capacity needs?

It depends on what type of failure are you talking about. The rate at which water flows from a leak, is going to depend on the size of the leak. It could range anywhere from less than 1 ml per day, to the full supply flow rate.

If it's a catastrophic failure, you could be talking about the full contents spilling out in a matter of seconds/minutes, followed by the full supply flow.

In the case of a T&P discharge, it could be a tablespoon to a few cups. If the T&P fails fully open (not very likely), it would be close to the full supply flow rate.

If you want to plan for nearly worst case, you'll want a pump that matches the supply flow rate.  In the event of a catastrophic failure, there's not much you can do about the initial surge. But if the pump can match the supply, you'll reduce further flooding until the supply can be shut off.

I don't have solid data on it, but I'd guess that serious failures are rare, and catastrophic failures are even more rare.  Therefore, matching the supply flow could be a waste of money (unless of course the tank actually fails).

An automatic leak detection shutoff valve, is another way to reduce damage caused by a water heater failure.  Though it won't do anything to prevent the water that's already in the tank, from leaking/gushing out.


How to clean a very textured patio with deep mud and rust stains?

OK, you've got two problems: rust and deep mud. I would bet the deep mud is mildew.

First the rust stains. Pour some white vinegar on the rust stains and let it soak in for 10 to 20 minutes. Then scrub with a hard bristled brush, then rinse with cold water.
For the deep mud, mildew, you're going to need a power washer. You can buy or rent one at your home stores. Get one that's about 2000 PSI. In most cases, plain water is all you'll need. If not, get a stone prewash. Good luck


You should only be worried about it if it's a problem with respect to your woodworking. Circular saws are by their nature not extremely precise tools. There's a lot of potential for movement as you work.

Reasons for your findings could be a warped blade, a bent arbor, worn motor bearings, sloppy blade installation, or a number of other things.


When you define "50A" breaker it is really necessary to specify if it is for a 110VAC circuit or for a 220VAC circuit. Common usages for a 50A breaker is for a 220VAC circuit to support:

Electric kitchen range / oven
Electric water heater
RV hookup
Electric car charging port

With that said the 220VAC/50A breaker would be a two pole unit similar to the existing 30A breakers that have the connected (bridged handle) across the two poles.

It appears plausible that such dual pole breaker would fit in the two remaining spots in the lower left corner of the panel. I say plausible because there is some question about just how the panel's bus bus bars are configured considering the existing placement of the two pairs of 30A breakers on the left side that have bridged handles. You may want to have the electrician come out to give a bid on the work and its ultimate feasibility before you commit to the work.


Will filling gaps with epoxy in a new hardwood floor look ok?

The epoxy glue products are not made for this situation. It will stick out like a sore thumb.  It will not accept stain.  There are any number of good quality wood filler products that are made specifically for this application. The manufacturers of these products state that they will accept stain however, I have found that to be only partially true.  They are still the best choice for this job. Wood that is properly seasoned and good tight installation is the best defense against having to fill the cracks.


Can this water damage be explained by lack of gutters and grading issues?

You've really got a two-step question here

Would a lack of gutters and grading explain the water?
The simple answer is yes. That's the source here.

Even without gutters and proper grading, should the foundation walls still be water proof if they were constructed correctly?

It's that second question that will get you. Your basement walls comprise an access point for water. They're almost always concrete, which is porous and will let water wick inside. To help prevent this, you have an ecosystem to help channel water away from the basement walls. That ecosystem comprises

Gutters - Collects the water from the roof and helps to channel it away from the foundation
Sloping - Naturally moves water away from the foundation via gravity
Weeping tiles - Typically a "sock" covered drain pipe with holes, this collects water seeping down by the base of the foundation and helps to channel it away (think underground gutters)
Waterproofing membrane - The foundation should have some sort of waterproofing to help the water reach the weeping tiles and get channeled away
Sump pump (optional) - Sometimes the water comes up from under the foundation. If this is the case, pipes in the basement floor will channel the water to a catch basin, where a sump pump lifts the water up and out, typically combining it with gutter discharge (older setups did this into the sewer, but this could permit flooding into your home in the case of torrential rain)

You probably have #3 already (few places don't require some sort of weeper at the basement wall), but I would have someone investigate (or do it yourself and dig a hole, carefully since older weeping tiles were literally ceramic tiles). It's #4 where I see a giant red flag. You want some form of waterproof membrane to keep the water from seeping in because gutters can clog and ground can settle and/or erode so you no longer have a proper slope.
If I were you, I'd consult with an expert on the water table and drainage. You need to know if that was all rain water, or if there's seepage from the water table. I would then demand the contractor excavate the basement walls and apply a proper waterproof membrane. It will be costly, but it will be more so once the walls are finished in the basement. Don't rely on slope and gutters to do it all.
It's also worth checking to make sure your sump pump isn't discharging into the sewer. It might also be a good idea (while the basement is torn up) to add a sewage backflow preventer.
Fix this now, or you'll find your basement damp, moldy and possibly water damaged.


How do I maintain air quality in a newly finished basement of a 1925 home with no ductwork?

On the plus side, a 1925 house tends to be fairly drafty. Not an ideal thing if you live in MN, but it can be considered a benefit as it typically means you have plenty of airflow in the home.

The main air quality issue in your basement will likely be mildew/mold. That will depend on your climate (is it humid?) and the quality and type of finishing that was done in the basement.

If it is a humid region, definitely invest in a quality dehumidifier. If you already have central air, and it can handle the extra space, definitely add the basement space to the HVAC system to help circulate. Having heat in the basement is good too, as the warmer air will eventually rise through the house pulling in newer air into the basement space.

Other things you can do would be to install ceiling fans...a relatively cheap way to help increase air circulation.

And as others have stated, definitely get a Radon test.


What does "No Other Outlets" mean for a kitchen 20A branch circuit?

210.52(B)(2) is saying you should install 2 small appliance loads specifically for small appliances and are only allowed kitchens, dining rooms, and other specified locations. Usually they are circuits installed around the countertops of a kitchen. So you may not use them for general purpose receptacles in other rooms. They should not be used for disposals, dishwashers, etc.

Remember you can install more than two small appliance circuits if you see the need.

In your second comment you are misreading Table 210.24. It refers to circuits with a single receptacle. You can only connect no more than 10 receptacles on a 20A circuit or 8 receptacles on a 15A circuit. And all of that is for general power receptacles.

Remember you are installing small appliance receptacles. That means you may be connecting up an 1100W coffee maker and then say a 860W countertop Microwave and running them at the same time. Then you decide to pop on the toaster. If these are all on the same circuit, you be trying to get back to your panel to try and find the breaker you just tripped. And you haven't even had your first cup of coffee. Generally I would never put more than 4 duplex receptacles on a small appliance circuit.

Hope this helps.


I have had a lot of success in the past by using a mixture of PVA Glue and water and then painting the solution over the crumbling area. The glue gets absorbed into the crumbling surface and stabilises it. Then you can refinish with a thin coat of filler or plaster. It saves a lot of work.


What should be done before using a fireplace that has not been used in decades?

You hire a chimney sweep to inspect (and clean) it. In some cases it may need to be completely rebuilt - in others, it may simply need cleaned and inspected, or it may need something in the middle.

At that age, you may well find that you'll face relining to make use of it under modern conceptions of what's safe - it will have deteriorated with age and probably was not built to standards that are considered safe these days in the first place.

There are ways to solve that problem, but which way is applicable will vary with the state of the chimney, and any work that might have been done to it in the 70 years before it was disused for 20 years, as well as what's been going on inside it for 20 years.


The annual rainfall isn't so much of an issue as how much you get in one go (before your water butt can drain). One millimetre of rain works out to one litre per square metre so 23 square metres of roof means you can collect 26mm of rainfall. I'm south west of you, but we probably get that in a few hours a few times a year.

Here's a calculator that should help you. Plugging your numbers and assuming the roughness value they prefill means you can drain 13 litres per minute (if that's 20mm bore, I'm not familiar with MDPE). That sounds to me like it would work even with some additional losses. But you would want to maximise the head, and consider what happens to any water that overflows, as this will be when the ground is already wet.

The soaker hose does need a bit of pressure, and it would dump the water onto wet ground - the advantage over just enough gutter to keep the rain away from the door probably isn't significant.

I would do it slightly differently - I'd take the pipe out near but not right at the top of the water butt. This would decrease the size of the buffer but increase the head (in a ground level pipe) and therefore the flow rate, while giving you some stored water to use in summer


Rinnai R85 - no water pressure after flush

An issue with no hot water being resolved by performing a flush suggests to me that there was a buildup -- hard water scale, ie mineral deposits -- on the inside of the heat exchanger tubing. I suspect that the deposits were not entirely removed from the heater during the flush. Some debris may have remained inside the plumbing. That debris found its way to some faucets and is now plugging them.

The first thing to check is the aerator. This is a screen assembly installed right at the point where water comes out. Unscrew it and clean out any debris. It may not be easy to remove, especially considering that you had scale problems in the water heater.. Soaking the end of the faucet in vinegar for a few hours may ease the removal.

If cleaning the aerator doesn't resolve the problem the next thing to check is the faucet valve. Remove it, check for damage or debris, and re-install.


Judging from the photo, that rot seems superficial and as long as you prevent future water infiltration it may be fine to leave it.

I would take a small nail and see how deep the rot is at several different points. Unless it is severe (i.e., maybe 1/3 or more through the wood?) it is probably OK to leave it.


Can I use Wago connectors to extend a ring main?

Yes, but a few points need to be observed to make sure it complies with BS7671  IET 17th Edition.
Firstly, the terminals must be installed in a Wagobox (when breaking into existing ring wiring). This needs to be UK sourced to ensure you get ones that are stamped with [MF], meaning that it's classed as BS 5733 Maintenance Free box.
To comply with the IET regulations, each Wagobox is limited to 50Amps in total. The compatible terminals, 773(solid) and 222 (lever), are also derated to 20Amps.
Therefore, for a regular 32Amp ring main, you will need to use two Wagoboxes - one at the start and one at the end of the extension. As the load from any socket is shared in both directions of the ring (albeit unevenly), the derated 20Amp terminals are sufficient.
Before:
                         +---------+
     L                   |         |
    +--------------------+  |   |  +-----------+
    |                    | - - - - |           |
    |                    |         |           |
+---+---------+          +---------+           |
|             |                                |
|  Consumer   |                                |
|  Unit       |                                |
|             |                                |
|             |                                |
+---+---------+          +---------+           |
    |                    |         |           |
    +--------------------+  |   |  +-----------+
     L                   | - - - - |
                         |         |
                         +---------+

After:
                         +---------+           +-----------+
     L                   |         |           |           |
    +--------------------+  |   |  +-----------+  Wagobox  +--------+
    |                    | - - - - |           +-----------+        |
    |                    |         |                           +----+----+
+---+---------+          +---------+                           |         |
|             |                                                |  |   |  |
|  Consumer   |                                                | - - - - |
|  Unit       |                                                |         |
|             |                                                +----+----+
|             |                                                     |
+---+---------+          +---------+           +-----------+        |
    |                    |         |           |           |        |
    +--------------------+  |   |  +-----------+  Wagobox  +--------+
     L                   | - - - - |           +-----------+
                         |         |
                         +---------+


Drill hole through thick wall for TV cable

Not knowing your wall configuration (or even your country), I am going to assume the most common walls for interior walls in the USA.  That is a hollow wall with 2x4 studs with drywall on each side.  You pretty much have 2 choices of how to do this.  One is buy a longer drill bit and the other is do your best from both sides.  A while back I purchased a 1/4" dia x 12" long. It can probably be purchased at any hardware or big box store.

If you don't want to spend a few bucks on a longer drill bit then do the following:

In the area you want to put the cable through, determine the stud locations.  Either use a stud finder or tap gently on the wall with a hammer and listen for hollow vs more solid sounds.  You will want to avoid the studs for the obvious reason and because there could be wires running along them.
Drill a hole in one side of the wall, using the size of drill bit that the cable will fit through.
Measure where that hole is to a corner that might be common distance on both sides. For example if both rooms are on a single outside wall, measure to the corner on that wall.
In the adjacent room, measure back from the appropriate corner that distance, and the same distance up from the floor.
Drill a smaller hole from this second room.
Have a friend hold a flashlight up against the small hole while you look through the larger hole.  This will let you know if you are close enough and in which direction to try to fish a wire through.  If the hole does not line up very well, repeat the drilling of the smaller hole and checking the alignment.
Once you have good alignment, enlarge the smaller hole.
Tape an end of the cable to a stiff wire (old wire coat hangers were good for this, but now hard to find) or rod (long pencil, dowel), or even a stiff broom fiber.  Basically anything that is stiff and small enough to go through both oles that a wire could be taped to.
Poke the stiff through the hole until you feel it pass all the way through. Once it is through, it is easy to gently pull the wire through.  It might take a second person to help the taped connection get through.
If necessary, go back and repair any of the smaller holes that might need patching.
If you want it to look better, you could use a short cable and purchase electrical plates for cables.  This becomes a connection in each of the two rooms that a cable is attached to.

Personally, it is a lot easier to buy the longer drill bit, then widen the hole a little bit larger. Then  tape the cable end to the drill bit to use it to pass through the wall.  They are not all that expensive and has been useful in many situations.


Would drilling a small hole through joist / sole plate cause structural problems?

You can drill through the plate anywhere you want to.

Ideally don't put any notches in the top 2" or bottom 2" of the middle third of the joist span. You can put a notch on the right or left third of the span in the top of the joist up to a sixth of the joist depth. A sixth of the depth of a 2x10 is 1-1/2", do just don't go deeper than that.


Do I need to use two wire types for an indoor/outdoor run to a garage?

Put it in conduit, use THWN, done. Most THHN is also marked THWN or THWN-2 (and MTW, and perhaps a few other listings.)
Because part of the conduit is outside, the wire used must be wet rated (W) but there's no need to change wire type where it goes inside the building.
Using 6/3 cable in conduit is a right royal pain in the behind you don't need or want. Use individual wires when using conduit - they pull easier and they typically allow you to use smaller conduit per the way the fill rules treat cables .vs. wires.
If you use continuous metallic conduit, that is your ground, you don't need a grounding wire, and you can use 3/4" conduit (minimum.) If you use PVC conduit you need a grounding wire and you'll need 1 inch schedule 80 minimum (which most "home centers" will not stock, but any electrical supply will have tons of) because it sounds like most of the run is going to be below 8 feet and thus considered "subject to damage" so it needs the additional protection of the heavier wall of schedule 80. Don't use Sch 40 becasue it's all you can find at the home center. Go find the electrical supply. The wire may cost less there too...


One cable will be the feeder (hot and neutral) and one cable will go to the switch. The one that ran all the time will be your supply the other the cable to the switch.
Turn the breaker off and verify it is off.
Tie the white on the cable that made it run all the time to the white on the fan. The black on the fan goes to the black on the cable that did nothing, the black on the cable that made it run all the time to the white that did nothing.  Now wrap some black tape on that white wire connected to the black.
To do everything correctly the white wire at the switch should have some tape also.
Turn the breaker on and now the switch should work .
This is a switch leg the white is always hot and should be reidentified as a hot, I said traps but tape or fingernail polish, paint any color but white green or gray would be code compliant.