New 20amp circuit via old conduit or not?

Here's the good news. You have figured out two methods of running your new circuit and both of them work. As a DIY'er probably the best method for you to take would be to run the 12/2 to a new box.

As an electrician I would look at trying to run the conductors in the conduit. The magic number is 40% fill for the conduit and boxes. So you would need to know the number and type of insulation of each existing conductor and the size and insulation of the new circuit. Once you have that information you would need to go to the Table section of the NEC and run the calculations to see if everything would work.  Also you would have to determine how you were going to make the transition from the existing circuitry and feed over to the new receptacle. This seems to me to be a little overwhelming to someone with limited experience.

So I would suggest you use the old KISS (keep it simple stupid) method and just run a new circuit. The only reason I would think about using the conduit was if it became really difficult to run the NM.

Hope this helps and good luck.


How can I keep my southern facing bedroom cool in the Arizona Heat?

The 1 time I used an in-line fan as you are suggesting it made more noise than it was worth. It produced very little increase in air flow.
I would have an HVAC company look at your problem to see if there was a simple fix or as the others have said plant trees, and some type of shading or add a separate cooling device. Since you are in Arizona, could you add a "swamp cooler" just for that room?


How can I control this electronic door release with an Arduino?

That lock is simple: give it 12 or 24 volts and it opens. You will want to wire it through a relay as an Arduino won't be able to drive it directly.


Polystyrene or other foam instead of mineral wool in low pitch loft

You can put polystyrene between the joists or across above them.

The super-duper products for this do get you equivalent insulation to fibre wool at a lesser thickness but at a higher cost in £££s. Search for Celotex or Kingspan insulation boards. They are available at a wide range of thicknesses (25mm, 50mm, 75mm, 100mm). They should be cut to the width of the gap and friction-fitted. For maximum insulation at minimum thickness, you would use 100mm between the joists and another layer (your choice of thickness) above the joists.

To maintain storage space you should apply batons at right angles to the joists (installing insulation boards) and then board over the top with tongue and groove chipboard floorboards (use wood glue on the tongue/groove interface and wood screws into the batons). The required spacing of the batons will depend on the thickness of your chipboard - approx 400mm between centres for 18mm chipboard or 600mm centres for 22mm chipboard.

A good head torch and electric screwdriver will be invaluable.


Is gun oil worth the cost for oiling an axe compared to alternatives?

I'd say almost any synthetic oil would work. I know people that use Mobile 1 Synthetic on their rifles.


What should I use to seal an exterior garden hose faucet pipe?

I would personally use Loctite PL Polyurethane Concrete Crack & Masonry Sealant, which will adhere well but still provide a degree of flexibility as your pipe moves within the brick. It's grey, but you can also mix in a little concrete dust or dirt to give it that "I'm not shiny caulk, honest!" look.

The PL product should be available at your local home improvement stores. (Homer's or Lowe's or Ace or whomever.)


This is a model for a light bulb that I have never seen. Does somebody recognize this model?

You're trying to buy into a paradigm that doesn't exist
You've grown up with incandescent bulbs.  They blow out every 750-2000 hours, because they are basically tungsten on fire.  So you go "that's why bulbs have sockets".
Then you learn about fluorescents.  The electrodes suffer spallation and mercury absorption, so they too eventually fail. That's why they have sockets.
You learn about HID, ditto ditto.
Then you learn about LEDs.  And you think "Since incandescent light emitters burn out and need sockets, and fluorescent light emitters burn out and need sockets, and HID light emitters burn out and need sockets... therefore it follows that since an LED is a light emitter, therefore it burns out and LEDs need sockets".
But when you actually stop to think about that thinking... it follows a pattern, but there's not actually any logic to it.  What do LEDs actually have in common with those other obvious bulbs?  Nothing. Except they emit light.
So LEDs are a blank slate as to the question of whether they burn out.   And the answer is, they don't.
Therefore, nobody builds lights with replaceable LED emitters.
Meanwhile, in the real world...
LEDs do die.  And what they die of is driver failure.  The driver is the electronic module that regulates power to the LED emitters to keep them at the correct current.  (it's rather akin to a ballast).  The drivers fail because they are cheaply made Chinese, which was the only way the seller could hit the price-point which the buyer (that's you) insisted on.
Of course you have had failed LEDs, and you have fantasized that if only you could pry up the LED emitters you could replace them with good ones and the light would be back.  In fact, it's a Chinese capacitor in the driver that has taken a powder.  The LED is fine.
In many fixtures, drivers are standardized enough that a spirited search for a replacement driver module can turn up a workable substitute, and you can be back in business.
If you ask me, the darn drivers ought to have sockets and be standardized.
The only cases of LED failure I've seen which weren't that, was where the PC board itself and/or the lead-free RoHS solder failed. This was unrepairable, so into the trash it went. Ironically the FTC sent me a check refunding me the purchase price of that bulb; the company was that disreputable.
There's also a technical reason in the way
Like fluorescent or HID lights, LEDs are dumb and need something external to limit current. You can use a resistor, but you'll sacrifice most of the LED's performance if you do.  So most LEDs rely on an active driver that runs them right on-spec.
Driver specs are a specific exact current (e.g. 350mA) at a range of working voltages (e.g. 30-46 volts). (that voltage will vary depending on the LED temperature, age, manufacturing variations etc.)
The driver must be semi-custom matched to the LED. So if we had pluggable LEDs (or drivers), the plugs would have to be keyed so you couldn't plug a 350mA LED into a 700mA driver. Because that would go "boom"! Also, a 48-70V LED just wouldn't work on a 16-30V driver.  So we're talking dozens of key shapes.
Where that can work is 12V LEDs, because many of them use simple resistor drivers. I suspect that's what you have there.
Cooling is also a big issue.
When LED emitters run at peak performance, they need a good heat-sink. Just like installing a modern CPU, you have to use the heat transfer goop, and bolt it down very soundly onto the heat sink, with no real margin of error.  This is another barrier in the way of field-pluggable LED emitters.


Water line won't stay connected to aftermarket freezer port

It is very common in refrigerators to use push-to-connect fittings for joining polypropylene water lines. If that is the kind of connector in use previously, yours appears to be broken (some examples here and here) and the metal ring is likely part of the broken connector.

If the fridge was never sold with an ice maker, then it would have not had any need for a water intake port. Therefore, that part must have been part of the aftermarket kit used. What you may want to consider instead of looking at the model number of the fridge is looking for a model number/manufacturer for the ice maker. If you can find one (you might need to remove a panel or take the ice maker loose to find it) you may be able to use that to track down a replacement part instead.

If you can't find a replacement port, consider just drilling a slightly larger hole in the port and replacing the existing polypropylene line all the way up to the ice maker with a slightly longer water line and use a connector on the outside of the fridge such as this, this, or this. You can usually get replacement polypropylene hoses at home depot or lowes by the foot. You may also be able to find the push-to-connect fittings too - just make sure they are the right size and you don't break the one going into your ice maker too!


Thoughts on Home Security Camera Location

Since it is a new build, I would run wiring to every corner (including inside corners) and just put a cover plate on the ones you aren't using. Small cost up front, but tons of flexibility. Make sure the CAT cables are clearly labelled at the switch side of things.


Is insulating suspended floor void with spray foam effective in reducing noise?

I believe that rock-wool would give better results.

That much spray foam is going to be very expensive...and messy, especially if this is a DIY job.


Should I use spray foam to insulate a basement?

That's the expensive way to do it. The cheaper and just-as-effective method is to put rigid foam boards (EPS or XPS foam) up against the walls, and seal their edges with little bits of spray foam, caulk, and tape (as appropriate). Seal them to the floor too. You can use the same method to insulate the rim joists. Just make sure everything's sealed up tight so no inside air can reach the walls and rim joists. This is much cheaper and more DIY-friendly, and the results are just as good. These foam boards are easier to finish too since they're flat and straight, so you can lay drywall right over them, fastened to the block walls underneath with Tapcon screws. Or you can build a stud wall and drywall over that.

For bonus points, use cementboard instead of drywall for the first two feet off the ground for flood safety. Drywall will dissolve and grow mold when soaked; cementboard will just happily sit there. If you build a stud wall, use pressure-treated lumber for the same reason.

If you choose to finish the basement, use the same approach and avoid moisture-sensitive materials in the bottom few feet just in case the basement floods. This means tile or plastic baseboards, trim, and flooring. No carpet, no hardwood, no MDF, no paper, gypsum, or wood products in general.


Moving a circuit from one panel too another

You MUST move both the hot and neutral together!

The underlying principle is currents must be equal in each cable or conduit.  You can't have a situation where current flows on the hot wire from panel 4 to panel 2, but neutral just ends at panel 2 and takes a different route back to the panel (creating an imbalance in that cable too).

If currents are equal, each wire kicks a large electro-magnetic field (EMF), but the various wires are equal and opposite, so the magnetic fields cancel each other out.
Since currents are not equal, large electro-magnetic fields are kicked up. This will cause eddy current heating, and vibration -> fatigue failure on wires.

Further, neutrals do not have circuit breakers.  This is safe, because neutral only handles current for its partner hot wire(s), so they handle the same current and the "hot" breaker protects the neutral.  If you return current from a different path, you break that protection, and now the oversubscribed neutral can overload - and no breaker will care.


Why will my toilet not flush after it rains or when ground is wet

Septic System?? If so, the system is FULL of water already and needs to drain out from your drain field.
If it is a municipal system, tree roots CAN SWELL TO 40 % or more of their normal size in wet weather, creating a blockage- hence a slower drainage- I'd look into a rooter service if this is the case and if on a Septic System- even pumping the tank will not help as the ground water is the culprit-preventing more water to disperse.  Pumping the tank will only remove liquid & solids in the inlet side- not removing water from the leach/drain field.


Strange clicking noise only heard while playing back recorded information on cassettes, etc

I remember this sound from my youth; about once or twice a second.  It is either a tape recorder or player problem.
This can be proved by running the machine elsewhere - the clicking will happen wherever the machine is, so proving the smart meter is not the problem.
A forum about tape deck problems is shown below.
I hope you find a solution.
As many people no longer value tape players, you may be able to get a better one with a polite request on Freecycle.org
https://www.tapeheads.net/showthread.php?s=623cb949fec3395c575f44fa0bf2564e&t=31268


At one time or another I've seen every type of drywall fail when it's used in a shower. Either because the grout cracked and went undetected, the soap dish leaked or water got behind the faucets. I'm a big fan of the concrete backer board. It's available in different thicknesses and many brands can be cut with a regular utility knife. Good luck


No one can really tell you what the cost will be online. You're going to have to have a contractor come out and take a look.

It could be as simple as replacing the tiles and grout.

It could be as complex as gutting the bathroom and completely replacing all the rotted framing (if it's rotted).

So, could be $500. Could be $10,000.

There's no easy fix for this. Your best bet is to just top using it.


What to do with these tiny exposed wires?

Those wire colors (black, red, green and yellow) are commonly found in the wiring for security systems; smoke detectors that hardwire into security systems typically run on 12VDC or 24VDC, unlike the 120VAC detectors that you generally find at home improvement stores.  I'm guessing the wires are stranded instead of solid core (like mains wiring) and of a smaller gauge wire.  Another clue is that there's a small hole in the ceiling; if it was a 120V detector, there should be a ceiling box, and the wires would be colored black and white, possibly with a third, red, insulated wire, and probably a bare copper wire for ground.

Since this smoke detector isn't working, the security system may have been disconnected or removed.  Do you have other smoke detectors in the house, and do they work?  What about other security system components like motion detectors, glassbreaks, the control panel and/or keyboard?

Use a multimeter to check that there's no voltage between any of the wires; the supply for the detector was probably on the red and black, but check all the combinations to be sure.  I would seal the hole with some expanding foam to prevent air leaks into the ceiling, then wrap each exposed wire individually with electrical tape and just leave them behind the base plate for the new detector.


How to repaint a metal door and keep the paint from scratching off?

Priming and Painting Galvanized Metal, condensed from KILZ.com, other manufacturers also make specific paints and primers for galvanized metal.

The galvanizing process, which is designed to prevent rust, leaves an oily film that can prevent coating adhesion. The zinc in galvanized metal can produce a milky “white rust” (which is common when it has weathered) that must be removed with a stiff brush or abrasive pad, prior to coating. It’s necessary to remove the oily film that can prevent coating adhesion with a water-based cleaner/degreaser.

Prime the surface with a water-based primer. Since oil-based primers can interact with the zinc in galvanized metal, causing premature peeling, always use a water-based primer when painting galvanized metal. KILZ® 2 Primer is an excellent choice when priming and painting exterior galvanized metal. It will grip to the metal surface and provide a better surface for the paint to adhere.

todayshomeowner.com/how-to-paint-a-galvanized-metal-door


Hard to turn kitchen faucet: how to change the cartridge

That screw in the handle has to be removed with an allen wrench. Then remove the handle. The chrome dome piece then has to be unscrewed to expose the cartridge. There could be another brass nut to remove too before pulling out the cartridge. Remember to turn off the water before doing any of this. Hopefully there are shut off valves under the sink. If not, then you're looking at turning off the water to the house. Take it step by step and came back if you need more help.


Ensuring a down pipe attached to a wall stays elevated above the ground

Replace that pipe clamp with one that isn't broken. You can, most likely, simply use the original screw holes (whether into wooden siding above that stone veneer foundation wall, or into plastic/lead inserts into stone/brick above where we can see).
If you need to, put a dab of caulk into the old holes to prevent water ingress and drill new ones for the new pipe clamp.


Why do the two-pronged Shaver Sockets in the UK have two sets of connectors?

UK shaver sockets are not a lower voltage, but the ones in bathrooms include an isolating transformer and thermal cutout so that neither wire of the shaver has any voltage to earth (so a shock to earth is impossible) and the socket cannot be used for more powerful appliances.

As bathroom shaver sockets include a transformer, it is easy to incorporate an additional tapping to provide a 115 volt outlet for shavers for visitors from 110-120 volt countries.

The shutter interlocks so only one socket can be used at a time

to prevent the transformer being overloaded

but more importantly

if two shavers were connected and became faulty it might be possible for a shock to occur from the shaver in one hand to the shaver in the other hand. This could be full 240 volts and a hand-to-hand shock would cross the heart line, and such shocks are much more likely to be fatal.

Some styles of sockets have a single socket outlet and a changeover switch to change the voltage, eg

(note that if both switches are pressed down accidentally, the lower voltage is selected)

Transformer-isolated shaver sockets are the only type of socket allowed in bathrooms in the UK (or at least, within 3 metres of a bath or shower, and most British bathrooms aren't big enough to have 'ordinary' sockets far enough away) but shaver sockets without transformers can be used in bedrooms and dressing rooms (the 3m distance does not apply to handbasins):


How to repair loose nails in a carpet threshold?

The easiest thing is likely to get a 1.5" long piece of tie wire.  Put the tie wire piece into the hole and then hammer the nail back into the hole.  The tie wire metal will allow the nail to get a secure hold in the stripped out hole.
Your threshold is fastened to the subfloor.  Really the only constraint here is the aesthetics of the fastener head in threshold.  If you are not picky about the color or appearance of the fastener head then you can use whatever will work.
Generally carpet will be 1/2" thick, your threshold is likely 1/4" higher and your subfloor is going to be ~3/4" so you want a 1.5" long fastener.
You can certainly make the hole in the metal larger to accept a larger diameter fastener and you can certainly use a screw.


How bad is it for my A/C unit if I cut the power while it's working?

You will need to protect against short cycling the air conditioner

When you turn an air conditioner compressor off, the pressure in the system does not equalize instantly -- instead, it takes a few minutes for the pressure built up on the high side of the refrigerant circuit to equalize with the pressure on the low side.

If you turn the compressor back on before then, this is a problem because now the compressor is trying to pump refrigerant into a zone that's already at high pressure, which puts quite a bit of stress on the compressor.

As a result, your device will need to delay a few minutes (3-5 is typical) before allowing the air conditioner to turn back on after it shuts it off.


how to drain a single loop in one of my heating zones?

You can blow the water out with a purge gas, such as nitrogen, or consider adding glycol to your water system as an anti-freeze.

Below is a picture of Propylene Glycol:

Pay attention to manufacturers recommendation. Also, by the looks of your pictures, I would have an alkalinity test done on your water. That build up around the joints looks like acid. If it is acidic, then your copper will start to deteriorate and cause leaks.


Install outdoor power cable for Arlo Pro 2

If the space above the camera is readily available, I would go that route.  It would be worth the effort spent to purchase a 18 or 24" 2' drill bit from the Big box store to do the full length from your porch all the way to the ceiling.  Once the drill penetrate to the other side, attach a wire to the end of the bit and pull the wire.  Then attach the power cable to the wire and pull it through.  You can also add several layer of shrink insulation to the wire where it goes through the stucco.  I do this all the time.
Before drilling with the long bit, You can drill a 1/2 hole through the stucco, insert a short plastic liner in the hole to protect the wire against abrasion.  Once the power is attached to the camera, seal the hole back up. This is similar to installing a door bell.


The other intake pipe appears to be capped. With no direct air inlet and the old line capped this sets up problems including code compliance issues.
I would verify with a local building code inspector, I don’t do furnaces full time but that would not pass inspection in my jurisdiction, to me it looks like a lazy installer trying to save a buck.
So my answer is NO it is not right. it should have a fresh air source.


What kind of concrete finish was used in this Tulum treehouse?

Floors probably have some kind of overlay maybe a  on top of concrete.  You can tell by the control lines in the floor that it was poured.  The control lines also show a different color.
It might be something like the "seamless natural floor plaster" picture here:
https://www.stuccoitaliano.com/floor-plasters
Walls are probably the same overlay on concrete block.


This heater alone required 113 Amps with really heavy hot water usage.  So first you need an electrician to look at your house and your electrical panel/s to see if you have that much power available.  The sub-panel idea is good if you have the available power.  The sub-panel would need a rating of at least 125-Amps.  You need to have newer and quality service equipment. Otherwise this type of a load could really raise havoc.


Connecting 3 wire cooktop to home 3 wire 240v

If that is indeed a 240V circuit, the white wire kinda shoulda been re-marked with tape to indicate that it is a hot wire.  Prior to about 20 years ago, they were allowed to skip the marking "if the usage was obvious".  The reason for the change is that their "obvious" is not your "obvious".
If you are confident that it is indeed 240V, remark that white wire with black or colored electrical tape.  (red is perfectly fine).

Code does not require you to mark different kinds of hot by their function... any hot can be any color not reserved for other things. *
White and gray are reserved for neutral.
Green, yellow w/green stripe, and bare are reserved for safety ground.
* with an extremely obscure exception relating to 3-phase power, that isn't even worth mentioning.


How can I reduce noise from tenants coming through my heating duct?

If you only have access to the inside of the duct, and then only as far as you can reach, you won't be able to make a huge difference, but you might be able to reduce it a little.

The sound is transmitted in mainly two ways, some is conducted through the metal of the duct and some is reflected around the inside of the duct until it reaches you.  You can reduce both a little, but remember that:

You're breathing the air that comes through.  You don't want to use materials like fiberglass.
The HVAC system is tuned to the volume of air that it's moving.  Also, temperature is based on how much air flows into the room.  You can't significantly reduce the air flow without affecting heating/cooling in the room, and if you reduce total air flow in the house too much, it puts a load on the HVAC system that can make it inefficient or even cause premature wear.

Conducted Sound

You can reduce sound conducted through the metal by dampening it.  This is usually done by attaching a deadening material to the duct.  It is typically a very soft rubber or gel-like material.  The vibration is absorbed by the material and dissipated as heat.  You don't need to line the whole duct, just a relatively small area.  One manufacturer has a demonstration video where they attach one piece a few inches square to a cymbal and the sound becomes a thud.

There are many manufacturers, and I haven't personally used any of the products, but here's an example from Amazon that has decent reviews:

This type is a soft butyl rubber sheet that absorbs the vibration.  One side has adhesive.  The other has a patterned foil.  You use a roller to press the material against the duct for a good bond.  The foil is just used so you can see where you've already rolled (the pattern flattens out).  Inside a duct, the foil would also serve to keep dust from sticking to the soft rubber.  This stuff isn't thick enough to materially change the the air flow through the duct.

I would clean the inside surface of the duct as far as you can reach.  Then put the sound deadener on the bottom and sides of the duct to the distance you can reach.  You can easily cut it to the size you need with scissors.  You don't need to go edge to edge on each surface, just cover a good portion of it.

Reflected Sound

For the sound reflected through the duct, you can't really block it, but you can absorb some of it to reduce what's bouncing around inside the duct.  In tests of materials for sound absorbing panels, ordinary cloth towels turned out to be on par with fancy materials designed for sound reduction.

Based on how far you can reach into the duct, fold something like a bath towel so that it's almost the width of the bottom of the duct and as long as you can reach.  You want as many layers as you can fit in no more than maybe 1/4 the height of the duct so you don't affect the air flow too much.  Stitch the leading and trailing edges so the air doesn't blow the folds open.  Then lay it on the bottom of the duct.

An alternative to the towel would be polyester fiberfill.  This is the stuff sold in fabric stores or places like Amazon or Walmart for stuffing pillows.  It's sometimes used to fill the inside of a ported speaker to reduce sound reflected internally.

It doesn't reduce air flow all that much because it's mostly open space.  You could take a bag or two of it (enough to fill the cross section of the duct to a depth of a few feet), try to keep it in an intact wad, and stuff it into the duct.  Push it in just enough so it doesn't interfere with the register.  If you find that it blocks too much air, pull some of it out.

You could also stuff some fiberfill in the duct at the tenant's end.


Can I reinforce a beam by cutting the rotten part away and adding an extra piece instead?

I think you have several options depending on how the roof is framed. There is some missing info so I’ll make some assumptions and you tell me if I’m wrong.
Option #1: Patch in wood. If the roof trusses span from side to side, then there is very little load on the beam. The beam has not sagged, which is an indication that it’s over sized. Therefore, you could remove the dryrot portion and not affect the structural integrity. (You’ll need to fill in what is removed, so the metal siding can be reinstalled.)
Option #2: Do nothing but stop the leak. An interesting thing about dryrot is that it stops once the moisture is stopped. You’ll need to reinstall the siding AND seal the siding joints. If the existing wood is too “punky” to hold nails and screws, then you’ll need to insert blocks of wood, similar to Option #1 to hold the siding.
Option #3: Restore the beam to its original “full strength”. This is the most difficult repair and is probably not required. You may cut the dryrot away and you don’t need a dovetail cut. Just cut the wood so that new wood can be glued back in place. You need lots of clamps and lots of wood glue. Essentially, you’ll be making a glu-lam beam. Make sure all surfaces are coated in glue and sufficiently dried. However, I believe this is overkill.
In all the options, the end connections need to be secured to the side beams. Depending on the design of the roof trusses, the beam is actually a “tie beam” and it’s purpose is to keep the side beams from spreading apart.


Groutable vinyl tile in a laundry room. Is it a bad idea?

Answering my own question. Called Custom, they told us that even though these grouts are more flexible than concrete-based products, they still need a stiff subfloor like for a real ceramic tile, or the warranty will be void.

So yeah, groutable vinyl tile in my laundry room is it a bad idea.


How do I build shelves on non-square (>90 degrees) walls?

"Not square" can mean two different things: not a right-angle, or rounded.

If the walls are not at right angles, you can use a T-bevel to measure the angle between the walls.  If you don't have a T-bevel, you can hold a piece of light cardboard against one wall and fold it so the crease is against the other, which you can use as a template for cutting the shelves.

If the corners are rounded, I'd use the cardboard again: estimate the radius of the corner, cut a quarter-circle of that radius, and check how well it fits into the corner.  If necessary, adjust the estimate and repeat.  Then use the quarter-circle as the template.


Why are there cracks all over my upper floor ceilings and walls?

This is very very common in my area as I live in a part of the Midwest that can have 60 days straight of 10-20 F in the winter and 60 days straight around 100 F in the summer.   I have bought more than a few houses with the issue before - on purpose.  Because what looks like some major structural issues going on, it is really no big deal other than the cracks in the drywall.  I know it is a big deal to you because you shouldn't have to deal with issues you didn't cause.

Why the issue just appeared had little to nothing to do with the new roof and a lot to do with the new ventilation and insulation the attic area got.  One of two things or both certainly happened:

The attic had a lot of loose insulation before and they got rid of a lot of this to increase ventilation.  It is very likely that your attic was full to very full of insulation before.
The attic did not have a great thermal barrier and they added something to create a break from the house.

There are a variety of reasons why they may have done this.  There could have been condensation/mold issues due to lack of ventilation or they could have determined that there was a considerable amount of heat loss so they wanted to redo the attic.

Most likely though the roofing company did what they usually do or made the change based on making money.  The architect/engineer that designed it originally allowed the drywall crews to nail/screw directly into the trusses at the corners.  Any architect working on a project like this would be all over this as it is a huge aesthetic thing.  It likely that the architect planned on keeping the attic "warm".  The fact is it was working just fine for a long time and someone changed it.   The roofing company should be on the hook for this period.  They probably got all kinds of money installing baffles and mushrooms and whatever, so that there was "new" insulation.

Let's talk about what is going on.  The bottom of your trusses are below insulation.  They are conditioned and dry.  They stay the same.  The top of your trusses are above the insulation.  Now that the ventilation is "better" they get even more cold air and moisture in the winter.  So they are sucking in water and elongate during cold seasons.  As they elongate they push down on the truss bottom plate on each side.  The bottom plate is stretched and bows up in the middle.  Given that your drywall was installed the same throughout your house I would guess that your biggest cracks are in the middle of the truss.  Also the vertical cracks you are getting are for the same reason - movement.  Albeit some more flexible mud and keeping your home at more consistent humidity levels would probably fix those.

Just know that seasonally your truss will pull up the highest during the winter and flatten back out during the summer.  This will just keep on happening every year with some years being worse than others.

So how do you fix your cracks for good?

Have the attic reinsulated.  Meaning less airflow and ventilation and more insulation.  If there was a ventilation related issue that they fixed there should be pictures to back it up.  You don't just change something that was working fine.  Housing systems are very unique.
Have all of the ceiling drywall redone.  Basically you would need to install the ceiling drywall and not attach it to the trusses anywhere within 12-20" from each wall.  This will allow the corners the ability to move with the trusses.
My drywall guys never screw within a foot as it is but this was not common practice until the past 10-15 years.

Installing truss backing angles everywhere would fix your issue.  This is just a messy alternative but what needs to be done.

The last choice I offer is just to install some crown molding.  However you can't just install the crown molding using the traditional method or you will be back on here next winter asking "how do I fix a big gap at the top of my crown molding?"  What you need to do is install a wedge around the entire ceiling and attach this wedge only to the trusses.  This actually doesn't add much install time to the project as the crown molding goes up super easy and is firmly secure.  And it will move up and down with the top of the ceiling all year long.


Can you tell me what the code is around electrical boxes in homes with a basement?

This is an easy one, code requires the wiring to be protected below 8’ it can be in conduit (not a cost effective option here).

It can be protected by 1/2” plywood or Sheetrock ! Here is the East way to go.

I would attach some 2x4’s on either side of the box to the floor Joist , then a simple piece of Sheetrock or plywood ~16” wide would meet code. The wiring run through the holes in the joist should be fine. But below 8’ on the walls they need to be protected.

An easy hint
a 8’ 2x 4 cut in 4 pieces one laid flat on each sid of the box with 2 tap con screws to hold it in place then nail or screw the other 2 pieces on top of the 2 that are screwed to the wall next the piece of Sheetrock or ply wood to cover it all. A couple dollars for the 2x 4 tap con screws are a bit more expensive some come with the drill bit. 4 screws to hold the 2x4 to the 2x4’s and then 4 more screws to hold the Sheetrock to the 2x4’s,

It could be done with construction adhesive instead of screws but I don’t recommend this but it could be done , I lived in Dayton and did enclose my panel (using construction adhesive in my youth) I had gone through apprenticeship prior to that time and it passed. Today I try to make it serviceable where construction adhesive really requires it to be torn out to pull new circuits.

Added code references: 334.10  must be permitted by to be used except where prohibited by 334.12

334.15 .B exposed work. Protected from damage Cable shall be be protected where necessary

334.15.C installed on the wall of a basement shall be allowed to be installed in conduit or tubing or protected in accordance with 300.4

So yes nm cables on a basement wall require protection. In this case the easiest way is to “finish that section” and box it in.


I'll address each of your four questions in turn.

You can do this without moving any circuits by replacing the 20A tandem breaker in slots 10/12 and the 30A two-pole breaker occupying slots 14/16 and 18/20 with a 20A/30A quadruplex breaker with a center common trip which will take the circuit from the 30A breaker and independent, non-tied outer trips that take the circuits served by the 20A tandem breaker -- in your case, the Eaton BQC2302120 -- and then shifting the two 40A two-pole breakers (one is in 22/24 and 26/28, the other is in 30/32 and 34/36) on that side up a full width slot (so that you would have a quadruplex in 10/12 and 14/16, the first 40A two-pole in 18/20 and 22/24, and the second 40A two-pole in 26/28 and 30/32).  This would then leave you with slots 34/36 and 38/40 open to put your feeder breaker in, which of course must be an Eaton BR two-pole.
Your breakers in the subpanel must match the brand of the subpanel -- there's nothing in the NEC that prohibits a subpanel that's of a different make or breaker type than the main panel.  I'd recommend installing another Eaton type BR panel and matching breakers, though, simply for consistency's sake (it makes your electrician's life slightly easier when it comes to sourcing parts, and also makes the subpanel breakers behave the same as the main panel's breakers :).
Since you have 1100 ft^2 of space to cover with this wiring project, you will need to account for a minimum of 3300VA of lighting and general receptacle load; this is based on the 3 VA/ft^2 figure given by Table 220.12 (the 35% demand factor for load over 3000VA given in Table 220.42 is apparently inapplicable in a 220.83(B) calculation).  Atop this, you will be putting three 1000VA heaters, giving you another 3000VA of heating load for a total of 6300VA on the feeder, which works out to 26.25A.  While it's technically permissible to treat the heating as a continuous load and the general load as noncontinuous load and then use the 215.2(A)(1)(a) method (125% of continuous load + 100% of noncontinuous load) and use a 30A breaker and feeder, I would use a 40A breaker and appropriately oversized feeder (50A ampacity minimum) to be safe and keep voltage drops reasonable.  Don't forget to re-run the 220.83 computation for your overall service to make sure you aren't overloading it!
Since you don't need a 100A feeder (the field reports I have read about electric tankless heaters are that they are a real waste of money) and can get away with 40A minimum instead, you can use a smaller cable, all the way to 8/3 NM.  If you wish to use the 2-2-2-4 Al SE cable you linked, though (it's cheap!), you will be limited to 75A maximum due to 338.10(4)(a) in conjunction with the 60 deg C column in Table 310.15(B)(16):

  Interior Installations. In addition to the provisions of this article,
  Type SE service-entrance cable used for interior wiring shall comply with the
  installation requirements of Part II of Article 334, excluding 334.80.

  Where installed in thermal insulation the ampacity shall be in accordance with
  the 60°C (140°F) conductor temperature rating. The maximum conductor
  temperature rating shall be permitted to be used for ampacity adjustment and
  correction purposes, if the final derated ampacity does not exceed that for
  a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor.

Addendum: You are correct in that you can use a heavier-rated loadcenter in this application; however, Eaton does not list a 100A BR main lug loadcenter in their catalog.  I'd recommend Eaton part number BR816L125FDP for a flush mount loadcenter or a BR816L125SDP for a surface mount loadcenter -- these are 125A load centers capable of taking up to 8 full-width BR breakers or serving 16 circuits when loaded with tandem breakers and pre-equipped with main lugs to run the feeder into (otherwise, you'd need to burn two slots for a main lug kit).  You will also need a GBK10 ground bar here (Eaton makes ...FGDP/SDGP versions with the ground bar preinstalled, but the blue box doesn't carry them).


patch small leaks in ceramic sewage line running through basement

Do you have enough access to the pipe to wrap something completely around it? I know we're not supposed to get carried away with brand names here, but have you searched for anything along the lines of "perma-wrap" or "water activated fiberglass pipe repair wrap?"

Or, cut a curved section of clay or PVC pipe of the right size, clean the pipe and put the cut section over it, then seal it with an industrial sealant that adheres to both materials. Even after that, I would personally wrap the pipe with something like fiberglass. But one of these approaches might create a solid seal and get you by until you can replace the pipe.


Can I cut a 2" thick marble slab myself?

I have cut one inch granite and it went very well with one exception to your list. Make the cut in a single pass or you will have lines on the cut face. You can use a good circular saw because the small water flow will stop essentially all dust; there will be some water spray that contains fine particles but no problem. I have cut cinder block dry and that needed a "sacrificial " circular saw. Breakout was not a problem when going slow at the end of cut. What I did for water was use a gallon bottle with a 1/4 vinyl (aquarium) hose with a clamp or valve for control; then you can make the mess anywhere.It requires little water and it will run down the cut groove to the blade.


The source of the problem is that's an uninsulated duct running in unconditioned space (the garage). Every time your AC kicks in, the cold air cools the metal which then condenses the humidity in the garage. That humidity runs down the duct as water and soaks into the drywall causing the damage you're seeing.

The fix will involve:

removing the duct
repairing the drywall
reinstalling the duct with insulation to prevent this from happening again

Whether you should do it or hire it out would depend on:

how comfortable are you with some mechanical skills and learning new things?

you indicate that you don't have experience. These aren't difficult things, but doing a nice job on the drywall will take time and patience.
you'll need good spacial relations to be able to visualize the repair necessary, draw it out, estimate your materials (hello 3rd trip to Lowes this week today! don't ask me how I know), cut, fit, fiddle, install.

how accessible are the other ends of the duct?

where it disappears into the walls - you'll need access to the top at least
the bottom looks like you can unscrew the vertical just above the elbow

how comfortable are you with drywall repair?

It's a garage, it probably doesn't have to look too pretty, though someone may balk at an absolute bodge job when it comes time to sell the place

how comfortable are you with replacing bits of the duct?

you may need to extend the elbow out to get some insulation wrapped around the vertical piece. A pro probably would, if you DIY, you might get away with "adjusting" the existing piece a bit.
you'll probably want to insulate the elbow, too, or it will condense and drip
you'll need to get insulation into the section that goes into the ceiling

If you hire it out:

A GC isn't a bad option, but would probably be the most expensive

If he doesn't have the skills, he'll handle getting an HVAC guy and a drywall guy and getting them coordinated.

A general "handyman" type repair service would probably be good, too.

be sure to ask for some references and check 'em - you don't want to spend good money on more bad work.

You could be your own "GC"

hire an HVAC guy to take the duct work apart (he can handle getting into the walls as necessary)
rip out cut out the damaged drywall back to the nearest stud where you've got dry, undamaged material. (This will save some time for the drywaller and probably some expense. He'll adjust your cuts as he sees necessary.)
hire a drywall guy to repair
call the HVAC guy back to reinstall the insulated duct

The more I look at your pictures, the more convinced I become that this is concrete/block, not drywall (hence your mention of "mason", I suppose). In that case, replace all mentions above of "drywall guy" with "mason".

Personally, I've done a lot of projects on my house, but I'm not certain I'd want to take on this level of masonry repair, especially as a "first house project". Others may indicate that it's a fairly straightforward masonry fix. If so, I might feel confident enough to take on, you may too...

Based on the last two images added, that's definitely plaster over drywall. They drywall repairs are simple enough. Doing the plaster on top is a bit more work and skill, but you've got the fact that it's a "rough" and "random" pattern working for you - it doesn't have to be perfect to blend in well enough, and if you really don't like it, you can sand the plaster back off (making a huge mess) and try again (just don't sand through the paper of the drywall).

The most important part is finding the source of the leak and getting that fixed. Until you do that, the rest is just putting a bandaid on a sinking ship. If left unresolved for too long, you'll end up damaging framing, not just the drywall. If that happens, you're in for a fairly large repair bill. Much cheaper to track it down now, even if that means hiring someone.


It is a bad idea. TV screens are designed to be viewed basically level from your eyes as you sit in your TV room. If you mount it above the mantel you will forever looking up to see the thing.

The heat thing is also a concern for electronics as you have mentioned. Raise the temperature some and in the best case you will age certain components and shorten the life of the TV.

You would also have to deal with the disfiguring of the brick face of the fireplace when you find that it is a less then optimal place for a TV and decide to take it down.

I fail to see why this is such a fad idea to put TV's up high on the wall.


What is the most solid way to mount floating shelves?

I would consider using a "french cleat". This is a technique where you cut a board into two pieces using a 45 degree angle. I used this to mount some cabinets and they are incredibly strong. It just depends on whether you can adapt that to the shelf you have. Good luck.


How long to wait after tile installation before placing heavy objects on it?

It depends on the concrete permeability and the tile permeability  (is it porcelain (essentially zero permeability) or a ceramic bisque (most non-porcelain tiles))?

A sealed concrete floor and a porcelain tile will greatly extend the cure cycle by limiting moisture migration.

It is for this reason that Schluter (a tile membrane manufacturer) specifies a non-modified (no latex added) thinset for its floor membranes and porcelain tiles together (on the tile side of the membrane).  They make the same requirement on the floor side, if the floor is limited in permeability.  Flexbond is VERY modified.

If sealed floor and porcelain, 48-72 hours is safe.  The tiles will cure properly with EVEN compression (the weight of the washer), if spread over several tiles.

Would it be possible to temporarily put down several 1/2" ply feet, that span from front to back, under the washer/dryer feet?


Removing thinset from durarock backer board

For a small area, a grinder with a silicon carbide wheel will clean thinset off, but it is real messy.  For your 320 sq ft area, it could be done, but I would be inclined to pull the backerboard up.

Was the backerboard thinset to underlayment plywood or something like that?

If height is not an issue, you might consider thinsetting new backerboard to the existing, after using a grinder to level out the high spots.

Sorry I cannot offer a more definitive solution; you are in a hard spot.


How can I use a 16A appliance in a UK 13A socket?

According to my calculator 1425 watts at 240V is 6 amps, well within the 13-amp limit.

Are the round-pin 16 amp plugs standard in kitchens in India? If yes, that's probably why it has that particular connector. You should be able to get a 13-amp fused plug at any hardware store.


How best to terminate two high efficiency systems

Are you sure you have a high-efficiency water heater? If you didn't pay about $1500 or more for the unit itself, you have a low-efficiency water heater, and the distinction is important because you can only use plastic pipe for the exhaust ducting with high-efficiency condensing gas-burning equipment. Anything less than 90% efficiency needs metal exhaust ducting. and special clearances to combustible materials (like plastic pipe) due to the high pipe wall temperature.

Your level of confusion as well as the dangerous nature of what you are asking about leads me to worry that there is a nonzero chance that you will blow yourself up or set fire to your house. If you insist on continuing the work, I would recommend that you read the gas plumbing and venting code in your municipality and follow the guidelines set forth there.

If you choose not to do this and continue with this as a DIY job, please understand the risks to life, limb, and financial livelihood posed by unsafe gas work.


Figure out what is there first
As you noted, there are wires, and possibly plumbing (though less likely) in the wall. Drilling a pilot hole is a good way to verify the thickness of the drywall (1/2" is typical - but there are sometimes 2 layers = 1"). The other thing you might run into, which is a good thing to find is a stud. In a recent building, the studs may turn out to be metal rather than traditional wood. Either way, studs are great for mounting towel bars, and anything else. The one catch is that a pilot hole over a metal stud may not be immediately distinguishable from a pilot hole over a metal plate that is protecting wiring.
In a Stud
If either end of the towel bar lines up with a stud, then use long screws - typically around 1" longer than drywall + mounting hardware - to go directly into the stud. No anchors needed!
For wood studs, use cabinet screws. Do not use drywall screws - they are designed to attach the drywall to the studs and not for attaching over things on top of the drywall - they are handy in a pinch for all kinds of temporary and/or low-strength applications, but not for long-lasting heavy-duty applications.
For metal studs, drill larger holes and use toggle bolts. While you can use toggle bolts as anchors in drywall without studs, with metal studs you don't have to worry about the drywall crumbling under pressure - done right they will last forever even if people use the towel bar as a grab bar.
Into a Hollow Wall
Unfortunately, most of the time at least one end of the towel bar will end up over a hollow wall cavity. There are a variety of anchors used for this - most people swear by some and swear at others. There are plenty of plastic expanding anchors, as well as toggle bolts and other gadgets. Check the rating and get stronger than you think you need. A towel bar, unlike a mirror or many other things, will be used at least occasionally as a grab bar due to the nature of bathrooms - wet feet, slippery floors, etc.
All that being said, good quality anchors are fine for a regular towel bar if you can't get into the studs.
A real grab bar?
If you actually need a true grab bar - and there are plenty of towel bars designed to do double-duty as a grab bar - then you really want to get into studs on both ends or add extra backing (either cut into the wall, add wood, patch over and screw into it like studs; or a painted/stained wood piece placed over the drywall, screwed into studs and towel bar on top of that). But based on the picture, it looks like the towel bar will be next to the sink and not next to the tub/shower, so an "ordinary" installation should be sufficient.


What kind of tubing should I use for draining condensate from a furnace / boiler?

TLDR: Plastic tubing seems the safest to use. You may be able to use certain types of metal in some cases, but acidity in the condensate can damage those materials.

ICC model building code as an example says the following (in part):

SECTION 314 - CONDENSATE DISPOSAL
[M] 314.1 Fuel-burning appliances. Liquid combustion byproducts of condensing appliances shall be collected and discharged to an approved
plumbing fixture or disposal area in accordance with the
manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Condensate piping shall be of approved corrosion-resistant
material and shall not be smaller than the drain connection on the
appliance.
Such piping shall maintain a minimum horizontal slope in the direction
of discharge of not less than 1/8 unit vertical in 12 units horizontal
(1-percent slope).
[M] 314.2.2 Drain pipe materials and sizes. Components of the condensate disposal system shall be cast iron, galvanized steel,
copper, cross-linked polyethylene, polybutylene, polyethylene, ABS,
CPVC, or PVC pipe or tubing. All components shall be selected for
the pressure and temperature rating of the installation.
Condensate waste and drain line size shall not be less than 3/4-inch
(19 mm) internal diameter and shall not decrease in size from the
drain pan connection to the place of condensate disposal.

However Inspectapedia has some additional information on this topic which seems more cautious:

Condensate from condensing boilers is quite corrosive... That's why
plastic is a good drain material. Stainless steel might be acceptable
in some situations. I'd be careful about using brass, iron, copper,
galvanized pipe.

[Those materials would be sensitive to acid and could be gradually eaten away]

It seems that cases where you can use metal are when the condensate is diluted to a level which won't cause a problem. For instance, when it is introduced into a sewage line which is regularly used for other purposes. However, copper, brass, and related metals seem like a bad idea even in those situations.
This was described clearly in a Green Building Advisor post:

Don't sweat the acidity of the condensate going into the septic tank.
The volume is low (relative to daily drain flows...) and of things go down the drain that are at least as acidic as
natural gas or propane condensate. It's strong enough to react over
time with copper drains, but with iron, not so much.
The lower the pH, the more acid the solution is. Even the most-acid
gas-burner condensate has a pH no lower than 3, most are between 3-5.
Dry wine has a pH of about 3.3 (about the same as orange juice), even
sweet wine still under 4, typical soft drinks are between 2.5-3.5,
cranberry juice is between 2.0-2.5.
[In cases where the condensate will be diluted it would be a mistake to use]
copper, which is far more reactive to acids than iron/steel.
Brass/bronze and other alloys of copper will have the same issues when
chronically exposed to condensate. With drains down stream of a
dilution point such as the laundry sink hardly matter what the
material is, since in a typical applications there is many times
greater flow of the washer outflow as there would be from a condensing
natural gas or propane burner mixing in with it.


How can I resurface a masonry pool deck?

The original Kool Deck is a proprietary concrete/limestone surface treatment for  concrete surfaces. The porous properties of the limestone in the mix allow the coating to take maximum advantage of natural evaporative cooling (the assumption being that the pool deck is usually damp/wet). When not wet, the "knock down" texture of the coating reduces skin to surface contact area so will feel cooler whether or not the surface temperature is actually cooler.

Any paint coating over this surface is likely to negatively affect the evaporative cooling properties. To truly retain the properties you have (if you truly have "Kool Deck"") and change colors, means removing the surface coating and reapplying  the same or similar surface treatment.

This guy claims to have a product that does what you want, but I could never endorse it without a real world test. You could look into it though.


Can these scrapers be used to remove paint from millwork?

I have used similar scrapers with good results.For really fine details you might also get a dental type pick. Care must be taken with soft woods as you can scrape away some of the contours. The mutiple heads may make it easier to follow peaks and valleys.


Is it okay to shut off the cold water(blue tubing) to the water heater with the main water still on?

Yes, but...

Turn off the water heater first. You don't want the elements heating without a full tank. Be sure to fill it completely before turning it back on.
Expect some residual pressure for a bit. Open a few taps low in the house to help.


Waterproof Box THHN Clamp and Interior Run

Instead of using a 1" nipple, use one long enough to reach to the exterior of the adjacent wall.  Then use a proper emt termination connector with a proper emt box.  Or use a emt LB that attaches to the threaded nipple.

Either way, it sounds like your current nipple is too short.

Running MC/AC cable to a threaded nipple won't work, especially if you can't reach it.


13-Amp lawn mower + 10-Amp cord tripping 15-Amp breaker?

Both can be a reason. If you overload an electric motor it will draw more than the rated value causing the breaker to trip. The second reason is excessive length of a small cord can cause a large voltage drop browning out the motor causing higher than normal current. A 15A breaker is only truly rated for 12A with a continuous load (more than 3 hours) or motor loads. You normally would want a cord with at least a 16A rating for the mower since it is a motor, I just plugged in 120V, 13A at 100' this provided a #10 cord to keep the voltage drop under 3%.
here is a link to SouthWire® voltage drop calculator.


A few potential causes.  Fan is not working.  Compressor is frozen.   Compressor is going out.   Line is blocked.   Very low on Freon.


Keeping hot tub (spa) circuit line inside attic properly

In my area if the cable is for future use the current carrying conductors in the panel board must be capped and marked for future use.
The ground conductor if bare secured to the ground buss, if insulated capped. The conductors at the other end must be in a box and capped.
I have lived and worked in 4 states and all 4 had different rules. 1 required future use to be marked and all conductors capped together.
If you remove the wire from the panel it could be considered abandoned and in most states it is to be removed. Is your panel is in the attic or a junction box?


What do add to prop/raise the curtain rod a few inches away from the wall?

Make a couple of nicely finished wooden blocks.

Can be painted same as the wall or to match / contrast with the support you show.


If the electric doorbell(s) are no longer required, there is two steps. First, you need to disconnect the ends of the wires in question from the doorbell transformer. Cut them away from the transformer so no one will be able to reconnect them easily.  Doorbells work on 12 to 28VDC, so the source of voltage should be removed.  Once you are sure there is no electric power on the wires, simply cut them off or stuff them back into the hole, never to be used again. I always clip off any bare copper and fold and tape them so no conductors can come in contact with each other when stuffed in the wall.  Even though it is low voltage, shorting the hot and ground can cause sparks which could be a fire hazard.


Unable to turn knob on Rheem hot water heater to pilot

Below is a picture of the lighting instructions for your water heater taken from Rheem's website. Make sure to follow the lighting instructions carefully and do not skip any steps. This same instruction set should be available as a sticker on your unit.
It looks like you do in fact have to depress the knob in order to turn it so avoid using force.
If you are unsuccessful with the instructions then it is a good idea to call a professional.
Page 17: https://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=1109693C-C799-48A7-9045-F812119FBDF8


This can be complicated. It depends on what finish is on there now. Paint; latex or oil. Clear, varnish or lacquer. Not all paint will stick to all of these. I would recommend that the end result will be dependent on how much work you put into it. So this is what I would do if I was looking for a quality job. # and remove doors & drawers. Patch any dings with wood putty, sand imperfections smooth, wipe down with tsp for better paint adhesion, wipe down with clean damp rag, let dry, use shellac based primer. (only finish that will stick to all other finishes) use a sanding sponge to make smooth. Brush on new paint, oil or latex.


How do I take apart an older model bathroom faucet?

Remove the screw from the top completely, and then pull straight up on the cold water tap.  It may take some pressure but it will come free.  Under that you should find another cap, screwed on, which will be holding the cold water stem (aka valve stem) in place.


What is the 'orangey' colour on this pine and how do I remove it?

Actually, 'Pumpkin pine' IS (or can be) a natural, aged color of pine.

Painting is the easiest recourse.

Formby's or similar 'refinisher' will strip wood (of varnishes) and leave some patina, after which, a wood bleach (an oxalic acid based, like Savogran wood bleach) would be called for.

Then, sand and coat with a u/v blocking clear finish.

Repeat in 20 years.

OR

Tell every one its an antique and mustn't be tampered with.  Its the best TLC this beauty deserves.

Essay on Pumpkin Pine by Richard Mcintosh


Can two circuits with dual function breakers share a box?

It's the neutrals you need to firewall

GFCI and DFCI devices simply do not care about ground.  (Note how a GFCI breaker has no ground connection -- it has line-hot, line-neutral, load-hot, and load-neutral, and that's all!)  In fact, one could pull two hots and two neutrals through an EMT conduit to a metal box, thus having a single ground path all the way from the panel to the box, and have this wiring setup work, provided the receptacle box is wired correctly.

And in that, I mean that each DFCI needs to supply both its own hot and its own neutral to its corresponding receptacle, with no cross-connections between hots or neutrals; if you get this wrong, you'll get unwanted tripping due to wayward neutral current bypassing the DFCI that it originally ran through to get to its corresponding appliance.  This is because GFCI protection relies on the First Rule of Electricity; namely, that current flows in closed loops.  As a result, if the current going out on the hot wire doesn't match the current coming back on the neutral wire, that current has to be going somewhere else, and the GFCI assumes that "somewhere else" is you and kills the power to save your bacon.

So, once you have two independent hot/neutral pairs as well as a grounding path to the box (this can be done as 12AWG wires in a conduit, as a single 12/2/2 cable, or as two independent 12/2 cables), you can wire this all up in a single 1-gang box of sufficient size (18 in³ minimum).  You simply need to use a regular NEMA 5-20T duplex receptacle, preferably specification grade, and break both tabs off (i.e. not just the tab/fin on the hot side, but the one on the neutral side as well).  As a result, you'll have two independent 20A receptacles on the same mounting yoke -- each receptacle is connected to its corresponding pair of brass and silver screws, but not to the other receptacle or the other receptacle's terminal screws.

From there, it's just a matter making sure that your first hot/neutral pair goes to the terminal screws for the top receptacle and your second hot/neutral pair goes to the terminal screws for the bottom receptacle.  If you mix the wires up at this point, once again, you'll get reminded when your DFCIs trip on you as soon as you put a load on the circuit, for the same reason as before.


Commercially available traps or a pellet gun are a couple DIY options.

However, if you have a restaurant below you that has rats I would call the health department or your equivalent. The restaurant should pay for the pest removal not you.

Good luck!


How to paint / decorate both sides of a plasterboard?

Yes, you can paint plasterboard directly - it's usually just paper on the outside. (Moisture resisting plasterboard tends to have a foil on on side though, which probably won't take paint well).

What paint you use will depend what finish (or colours) you want, but you're unlikely to have problems using either emulsion or undercoat and gloss (or matt or eggshell) topcoat.

Here's some information about plasterboard.


Do I need to pre-drill holes in particle board for screws?

To answer your question: it depends.  The larger the screw, the more likely you'll need to pre-drill.  If you're installing the screw near the edge, or if the screw is larger than maybe 1/8" wide on the solid part, then I'd pre-drill.  To pre-drill, make the hole almost as large as the solid part of the screw (not the threads themselves, they need to have something to bite into).  Also, make the hole as deep as the screw minus the size of the bracket.  Use some tape on the drill bit to see when to stop.

That said, for your bed, looking at the plans, I think you'll get the most added stability by adding a short piece of 2x2 vertically as a center brace under the metal bar.  Check the hardware isle of your HI store to see if you can find an adjustable foot to put on this board, and then attach it via a few screws to the center beam.  This is actually a quick way to detect some lower quality beds that use wooden slats from side to side.  If the slats have a center brace going to the floor, it's a lower quality bed.

Edit: For clarity, just imagine a table with a 5th leg right in the middle.  You have a long span from the headboard to the foot of the bed which will benefit from an extra support directly in the middle.  The adjustable legs I'm thinking of screw into the wood leg of a piece of furniture and look something like this (this is a cutaway view, you simply install it into a hole you drill into the bottom of the leg):


Is it safe to touch wire testing at low to medium voltage on a 14 or 12 gauge wire, 15 or 20 amp (current) circuit?

No!
A non-contact tester is used to double-check that a circuit is on/wired correctly (i.e., if it doesn't light up when expected, then there is a problem) or off (i.e., if it lights up when you don't not expected, then there is a problem). When used to check that a circuit is off, that is typically to make sure that it is safe to work on the wiring:

Check circuit is on (using tester or by checking that light or appliance is on)
Turn off breaker or remove fuse that you think controls the circuit
Check circuit is off (using tester)

Remember, it takes a tiny fraction of an Ampere (GFCIs are rated in milliamps) at 120V to kill. SAFETY FIRST.
All that being said, there can be phantom voltage from another circuit or there could be low voltage (telephone, network, doorbell, thermostat) - neither of which would be a problem.
The ground wire ("exposed copper wire") under normal circumstances will carry no current at all except when there is a fault in a circuit. There are limited circumstances (certain types of switches) where a very small amount of current is allowed on the ground wire. However, there are a number of other incorrectly wired situations that could cause dangerous current on the ground wire without any obvious fault, including:

Ground used instead of neutral - e.g., need two hots + neutral + ground, only have hot + neutral + ground, improperly used neutral wire as a hot and ground wire as neutral
Neutral and ground connected together where they shouldn't be, allowing all neutral current to flow on both neutral and ground
Wires simply connected to the wrong places and "happen to work", but quite dangerous.

The only way to tell for sure is to check the voltage with a multimeter. The finger test is NOT RECOMMENDED.


How to restore a curtain pole where the rawl plugs have torn themselves out of the wall

Go buy toggle bolts and fender washers (I have seen them up to 2"in diameter) or some other large washer to cover the holes. You could also make a wooden washer out of some pre-finished wood or look for some kind of hanger hardware that will cover the holes and reinstall the curtain hanger. Take the bolt off the toggle, insert it through the curtain rod hanger, then add the washer, and last the toggle. Push the assembly into and through the old hole in the wall and tighten the toggle bolt. Hope this helps.


Why is my Australian light fixture wired this way?

It's fairly standard

In your case the red/white pair is probably from the switch, red probably live and white switched live (normally in my part of the world it would have red tape on it to indicate switched live). The other two twin+earth cables are mains supply and continuation to next light fitting. Your wires were connected directly to the light fitting so there is no separate cable to the lamp.

You can confirm this with vary careful one-handed testing using a suitable Cat II rated mains voltage tester. You can get non-contact voltage testers that make this safer.

After testing and confirming above, I'd connect the new lamp to the black group (AC neutral) and the white wire (switched live)


Can I use a transformer with center tap to convert 240V to 120v?

what you have drawn would work if sized correctly based on voltage.
 However the U.S. power is 60HZ,  I thought you were on 50HZ. The lower frequency may cause issues with the amplifier filter circuits (audible hum or buzz)
I would look into that first , then think about a “step down” transformer 2:1 .
The reason I would point you in that direction is the center tapped system would need at a bare minimum 2X the wattage.
I usually over size transformers by 50% (wattage) to reduce the heat created and extend the transformer life.
The power your unit requires to run is the important thing not the amplification wattage if it is a 500w amp it will take far more run the system than 500W.


Water leaking in ceiling when central heating turned on

You have a leak, obviously.  Water will travel along pipes, wires, framing, etc so it doesn't mecessarily have to be leaking right above where you see the water. It could be a hole in a pipe, bad fitting, etc.

You're going to need to rip up your ceilings (usually easier than floor since it's just drywall versus a flooring material) to find out where it's coming from.

Letting it get to the point where the ceiling collapsed wasn't a good idea. Wet material grows mold. After you fix the leak there is a good chance you are going to have to replace a lot of other rotted or moldy material.


How do you install the plastic/nylon toggle anchors?

I found this video on youtube titled: "Plastic Toggle Anchors" that shows their installation. The trick is to use your index finger to push in the toggle so that it can collapse down into a "barrel" shape for insertion into a pre-drilt hole in the dry-wall.

Here are the key shots from that video.

image #1

image #2

image #3

image #4


Is there a wall outlet power meter that I can interface with from a computer?

If you're willing to do a little modification, you can use a Kill-A-Watt and hook it up to your computer.

Adafruit has a "Tweet-a-Watt" project that interfaces with a Kill-A-Watt and wirelessly sends the power readings to the receiving unit (which they then hooked up to tweet the current readings)

In the Adafruit forums, I found a guy who was trying to read the Kill-A-Watt directly with an Arduino, instead of wirelessly sending the readings. You could use an Arduino and read the measurements directly into a serial console on your computer and save the results to a file that way.


Do I really need a small fan inside my fridge?

It is a pretty strange design to have that fan inside the fridge. But it is needed to circulate the cold air properly within the compartments it self.. it helps avoid mould growth, humidity build up and other horrible things.

-- Fans go out sooner or later.. but they usually start to make horrible noises after 12 months.. I would suggest finding a replacement.. and order 2 or 3 because it will do it after 2-3 years again. That is just how it is

--You could try and source the same dimension fan and voltage from another supplier that is more expensive.. because they put real bearings in that should last 10 years... but it will be a mission.

I am sorry that there is no other real alternative unless you start to go into real DIY and start rearrange everything in the fridge.


How can I make the new thinset level with the old one?

Use a 3/8" notched trowel, and "backbutter" (put a flat thin layer of mortar on the back of the tile), situate the tile accordingly, and remove excess mortar from the joints immediately. After drying, grout as normal.


Same old deal I have seen for the past 35 years as a service technician.  Not one person referenced the owners manual. Any appliance you purchase that has a compressor will tell you in the owners manual to not plug it into a GFCI receptacle. And this goes beyond compressors to include just about anything with an AC motor. While it is true a lot of refrigerators will run for a while on a GFCI receptacle,  it is inevitable that at some point the internal lubricant will collect enough metal from friction wear that it will charge the lubricant itself and create a natural current leakage to ground, which, surprise, surprise  trips the GFCI. The most common response when you tell someone to read their manual is "I didn't get one"  Uh huh. P.S. all compressors are vapor compressors. If there's no vapor there nothing to compress


Your idea is sound, pardon the pun. If you are thinking of having a dome shape, consider to construct a geodesic partial sphere/geodesic dome. This design is based on an icosahedron, a 20 face regular polyhedron in which all vertices are coincidental to a sphere. For geodesic structures, each edge is split into two, three, four and rarely five equally divided portions. The vertices which result from these splits are also coincidental to the sphere. The math could be considered daunting in earlier days (last century) but with the internet, the answers abound.

A two frequency geodesic dome/sphere (split each edge in the middle) will have a blocky appearance but fewer unique triangles.

A three-frequency dome will be more spherical, but require more triangles, of course.

An easy way to determine the frequency of a geodesic sphere or dome is to locate the points from which five struts/edges radiate, which is the center of a pentagon. Count the number of struts between one center and the next.

When constructing geodesic structures from flat panels, it is considered simpler to assemble these pentagons first, although different sites have different suggestions based on the assembly of each panel, especially if one is building from dimensional lumber and plywood or similar material.

In the case of rigid foam board, you would have to pay close attention to the edge angles and create a miter to accept the adjacent panel, or join only the inner edges and use a foam filler to secure the resulting gap.

The lower number frequency reference means larger triangles, while the higher number means smaller area triangles. This can be a factor when dealing with sheet material.

On higher frequency designs, it is common to have 1/2 dome or 5/8 domes, which provide for greater internal vertical clearance without sacrificing ground area.

You should be able to construct a lightweight rigid foam sheet geodesic dome with suitable sound damping (dampening = making wet) properties. Obviously, thicker foam panels will result in greater sound reduction.


Wiring 2 pull chain operated lights in series

You will not be wiring the two light fixtures in series. In fact you will be wiring them up in parallel from a single power feed. Since the power feed is always on make sure to have the breaker off before attempting to do any connections.

The pull chains on each light assembly will allow independent control of each light.


PEX - Do not install tubing above or below septic tanks, leach fields, pits, or cesspools - why?

Basic cross-contamination protection. Same basic idea of not putting the latrine upstream of the drinking water intake, or more pithy sayings I can't say here as they refer to human food byproducts by pithy rude names.


Make sure the valve stem is turning and not just the handle. Spraying a little WD-40 in there sure can't hurt. If the valve still won't completely shut off, you'll have to find your whole house valve which is usually on an outside wall in the vicinity of your water meter. These gate valves are notorious for failing too  so don't be surprised if they don't work too. If that's the case, there is usually another valve on the line side of your water meter that you should be able to operate. If not, call your water company and they will operate it for you. So if you get your water shut off, this is a great time to replace any of these valves that failed to do their job. good luck.


The Intermittent "sputtering" is sign of a loss of power going into the motor windings. there is pretty much only two ways this happens, A: there is a short somewhere (plug, cable or switch) or B: the contact brushes are dead.

If mild shaking of the grinder added to the sputtering, I would say its the brushes. This is an easy fix, since you just need to get access to the brushes and change them. However, for many cases (with cheaper makes) its about the same cost to replace the unit.


New floor up to new cabinets already installed or under? New construction home

Your Builder's a knot-hole, he should've figured in the wood floor for you. Don't mess the cabinets nor countertop, it shouldn't be glued to anything, knot-holes. This means no need to do anything with the uppers. But, do put the flooring under removable things, if there's room for it. Like, Refrigerator, Range, & even Dishwasher, easier future servicing. The vent can just slide up with a top cut, glue the cut-out piece to the vent hole's old bottom.

Now then, you might luck out with the toe-kick that's already there, for the new floor & the vent. If the toe-kick is solid & has no seams below each cabinet. Then, it was applied after the cabinets & can be pried off or even un-clipped, trimmed & reinstalled on top of the new floor, trim the top edge. You can also do this with many per cabinet toe-kicks too, if they're topically applied & not Ikea-like cam-lock nor bracket applied. Some Trim Saws could possibly cut the toe-kick that tight to the floor too.


Should I leave outlet covers on or off for electrical inspector?

In many jurisdictions, there is a separate rough-in inspection and then a final inspection.

The rough-in is usually done with wiring in place and before drywall is installed, unless the new cabling has been snaked into place.  Wires are exposed in boxes and no devices are installed in the boxes.

The final inspection is usually done with all devices and fixtures in place, and covers on.

But local practice varies, so your best bet is to ask the building department. They are usually happy to advise, assuming your locale allows DIY.


Leak in basement - should I be concerned?

As requested; It sounds like they are doing it correctly. Repairing the drainage issue first. Since they are replacing the Sheetrock (possibly with green board) rather than plain Sheetrock they are going above and beyond in my opinion. If the flooring was slightly discolored but dried and there is no mold it two will probably be fine. If it was sewage I would be concerned but rain water not so much. It sounds like they are doing a good job and there is nothing to be worried about.


What translucent material can I use to cover the bulbs at the top of a medicine cabinet?

You could certainly use frosted glass, though acrylic is easier to work with and lighter weight. You can cut it with a saw, it's effectively "shatterproof," and the edges aren't sharp like glass.

Frosted acrylic sheets are available at many DIY "big box" stores, and online. You may know this acrylic material by the brand name Plexiglas.

Acrylic sheet is also available in a variety of patterns and textures, as shown on one manufacturer's website.

One easy way to go might be to find a replacement diffuser panel for an overhead fluorescent light fixture. and cut it to fit your application.


How do I remove an underground paper hornets nest?

Yellow Jacket Hornet nests are seasonal in nature so you can try one of several methods.

Wait it out till fall or winter and dig the nest out once the colony has died. Fix the terrain so there is no ground void that can be used to reestablish a nest next year.
Try a bit faster approach, wait till after dark and dust the nest with a powder of boric acid and pyrethrin which will take time to be disbursed in the nest by the hornets and may take a couple of applications. The combination should be bio-safe as the boric acid will bind in the soil before getting down to the water table. Avoid getting stung, don't shine any lights directly into the opening. A wetter, messier solution is mint oil mixed in a hot, soapy water solution sprayed over as much of the nest as you can get at, but damp solutions don't always work as well.
Fastest, have a professional use a metered amount of Sevin, Deltamethrin or similar dust insecticide accurately dispensed into the nest. Have them use the lest likely to contaminate ground water.

University of Idaho document with underground nest cross-section


Best way to wet vent a washing machine and utility sink?

Q1: the code always allows a combo wye whenever a san tee is permitted. The reverse is not the case: vertical to horizontal turn must use a combo wye and may not use san t.

Q2. do not do that. code NEVER permits reducing pipe diameter in the direction of flow. So if the below grade pipe is 1.5 inch everything upstream from it must be 1.5 or smaller.

Q3: yes, san tee is permitted horizontal to vertical.

Q4: there's no need for a second vent merely because there is a high discharge volume. wet venting may be a problem, though. Also, the fact that the washer drain is 1.5 inch and not the code-required 2" is the bigger problem.


Locating CAT3 wire with Transmitter and Receiver

Well, if they are wired as for phone wiring still, they would all be tied together.

If you have undone that wiring already, they may be having "cross talk" from the RF signal getting picked up by adjacent wires - CAT3 is not as good at rejecting this as CAT5, 6 or 7. You might be able to note a change in volume of the "beep" in that case, but really, if you are not hunting for wires behind the wall, you're  probably using the wrong tool.

I'd pull out either a pair tester (since I own a couple, as a "network guy" - they are pretty cheap) and plug it in, where you will either see lights or not, depending on a DC connection that's not subject to crosstalk...

...Or else grab a simple meter (volt or ohm) and either attach a 9V battery to a certain pair and look for voltage, or short a certain pair and look for low-ohms (or continuity) - this might require hacking up a patch cable to make the connections.

Here's a simple, cheap pair tester (under $10 - similar to what I have but mine are too old to have examples for sale now - no affiliation)

You can find things with the same name that cost a lot more, as they add fancier functions you don't need for the simple tests.


Wiring a 220 outlet- can I use a 15 amp outlet with my 20 amp breaker? Or should I get a replacement 15 amp breaker?

You may know that on 120V circuits, you are allowed to use 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.  This is a special exception that only applies to 15A receptacles only on 20A circuits.

The Code says nothing about voltage.. You can use exactly the same exception on a 240V 20A circuit. You are free to use 15A or 20A receptacles (NEMA 6-15 or 6-20).

If you use a 20A receptacle (NEMA 6-20), the 15A plug will fit in it just fine.  They are keyed to do that.   (Just the same way as 120V NEMA 5-20 sockets will accept the common NEMA 5-15 plugs.)

There is only one gotcha: if there is only one socket in the whole circuit, the socket size must match the breaker size.  So if you use a NEMA 6-15 on your 20A circuit, make sure it's the usual twin-socket receptacle, don't use a one-eye.


How do I attach a shelf to an existing kitchen unit?

Wall studs should be every 16". If you measure from the start of the wall where the pipes are, you should be able to hit a stud every 16" behind the backing board. I'm not sure what the pipes are that you have in your kitchen - venting maybe, but I would look for shelves that would be supported via studs through the backing board wall instead of trying to screw into the wall with the pipes.


Concrete cost difference if forms done yourself

Best way to find out is to ask a concrete contractor.

One potential problem with doing what you're suggesting is that there probably won't be a workmanship/cracking warranty, as the concrete guys may not "approve" of the stone & rebar work you would do.


OK to disconnect ice maker/water dispenser in new refrigerator?

Ones without water dispensers are readily available.  It may be hard to find one without an ice maker.

You don't need to connect the ice maker (and water dispenser) water line, and lack of water won't hurt anything.

Ice makers can be shut off by just positioning the ice sensor bar in the up position.  But there may also be a simple way to disconnect it (like an electrical plug), so that it doesn't make noise if the bar accidentally gets lowered (it would make occasional clicking noises when it turns the water valve on and off, and motor whirring when it's time to dump the "ice").  It might even be possible to remove it and free up space, but that would probably require a technician.


It is current -5° F. Is this much condensation normal?

While this might not be a huge problem on its own, it has some negative side effects. Your windows are letting a lot of cold in through the pane and around the edges. This significantly increases heating costs and it can add uncomfortable drafts. If that frost melts and runs into the wood, it can cause mold which potentially could turn into a big problem.

If I were in your shoes, I would seriously consider upgrading my windows and if -5°F is common (or even if 15°F were common) then it may be worthwhile to look into some high quality 3 pane windows. When looking at windows, Argon filled is a plus but ultimately you mostly want to look at the U-factor. You want to get windows with as low of a U-factor as possible.


Moisture leaking out of chip in floor tile

I think your cracking the floor is a blessing in disguise.  Clearly there is water under the tile that needs to be dealt with.

I'd start by checking the obvious things like the toilet seal and the bathtub and/or shower drains.

But ultimately you're going to want to pull that tile up, dry it out thoroughly, replace any water-damaged materials, and replace the flooring.  There is no way it will dry out on its own at this point.


My wall outlet is making a hissing noise, should I be concerned?

If the circuit makes a 'hissing' noise as soon as load is applied, then you definitely should check that outlet for a problem.

Shut off the power at the breaker. Confirm that the power is off using either an electric light plugged into the outlet, or by using a Non-contact voltage tester. Unscrew the faceplate of the outlet, then unscrew the outlet. Examine the wires for heat damage or signs of arcing. I'd probably just go ahead and replace the outlet.

This is definitely something you should worry about; I'd expect to see something like this:

If you don't feel comfortable doing that, call an electrician.


The only thing that comes to my mind is a filter, probably activated charcoal, to remove residual chlorine. I doubt that it is necessary with the normal public water system. One sets the month when a new filter is installed as a reminder to change on some schedule.

Such a filter must be changed on some schedule because over time a biofilm will build up on the filter cartridge.

Edit

The original poster located this unit https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sprite-Showers-Universal-Shower-Filter-in-Chrome-SL2-CM-R/202386562


Is my detached garage ceiling capable of handling the load of drywall and insulation?

No, you would need to reframe the ceiling with timbers that are continuous and rated to bear the load of a ceiling, rather than simple rafter ties.
Timbers that are butted together like that are in tension - their job is to stop the roof from spreading outwards. Adding the weight of quite a significant amount of drywall underneath would make them sag potentially dangerously.
Here's a relevant example of U.S. building code:

Ceiling joists shall be continuous or securely joined where they meet over interior partitions and fastened to adjacent rafters in accordance with Tables 2308.10.4.1 and 2304.9.1 to provide a continuous rafter tie across the building where such joists are parallel to the rafters. Ceiling joists shall have a bearing surface of not less than 11/2 inches (38 mm) on the top plate at each end.

Because the secure join in this case is not over an interior partition, they are not to code as ceiling joists.
The walls also look like they might be too thin to support the weight of all the additional joisting and the ceiling itself too, although it's hard to tell that from the photos (they're probably fine, but do check).
Alternative ceiling options
As you shouldn't use those rafter ties as load bearers, here's some options for how the ceiling can potentially work instead:

A warm roof:

Warm roofs have the insulation either above (ideal) or between the rafters. It's really (really) important that there is no air gap between the insulation and the outside roof deck, and that you control moisture with an effective continuous moisture barrier. This type of roof is beneficial here though as the weight is directed down through the walls, rather than on the rafter ties. This would mean you end up with an open roof space (i.e. your existing rafter ties would be visible).

A suspended ceiling

A ceiling suspended from the rafters (not the rafter ties) would also direct its weight through the rafters and down the walls. Plenty of decorative options with these, but given their common usage in office buildings have a certain feel attached to them which isn't for everybody.

Insert additional joists

Use additional lightweight continuous joists (such as engineered I-joists) and only attach the ceiling to them if at all possible. Keeping the weight down, using metal or PVC ceiling boards would still allow for insulation above.


Why isn't there hot water in the shower, when there is hot water in the rest of the condo?

Sounds like there is something wrong with the plumbing in the shower wall or more than likely the shower valve or stem system.  If you are renting this isn't your responsibility.  Not sure of your state's laws but if there is an issue like this in most states you can give the owner 2 notices and a reasonable amount of time and they have to pay for your plumber.

Again if you are renting I would not fix this yourself no matter your confidence level.  Because mitigating damages will be on you.

Put something in writing to the owner.  Tell them it is the second form of contact.  Give them a date a few days out and say if it isn't fixed by that date you will hire a plumber to fix it.


A few possibilities...

Probably the cheapest (though not necessarily going to work in your setting) is a 3/4" ship auger drill bit through the plate of the wall behind. A slack jawed yokel would just set the bit at an angle through the drywall and go for it, but a sensible individual would open up a small hole in the drywall beforehand to see what they're drilling through. Hitting plumbing/electrical/etc is not in anyone's best interest.

Next would be a diamond grit hole saw. The only bothersome part of this approach is that you'd have to make a 3/4" hole in a scrap of plywood big enough to stand on. That would guide the hole saw and keep it from walking. If you do this, don't center the 3/4" hole saw exactly on your 1/2" hole. Have the rim of the hole saw go through a little bit of empty space in the 1/2" hole, so that it can drain dust and minimize clogging.

Least appealing would be to use a 3/4" hammer drill bit, but if you have other uses for such a thing (and a hammer drill that can actually drive something that big), it might be an option. On low speed and and not on the hammer setting, make the hole bigger. Too much pressure, and you run the risk of cracking the tile. (Not enough pressure and you'll be there for days.) Once you've opened up the tile, the drill bit won't go through the floor very well, but you can probably push your way through with a little more drill speed. From your description, it doesn't sound like you have porcelain tiles, but if you do, avoid the hammer drill bit like the plague -- I assure you that it won't end well.


What tool to use to clean refrigerator drain?

A good alternative to the wire would be an aquarium pipe cleaner. It is designed to fit in small diameter pipes and clean out algae that may be growing just the pipe. It should do the same for any mold that may be growing in your pipe.


How high should I install an outlet in my bathroom?

On a wall there is not a minimum or maximum height. The question would be how high would you like it? If close to the basin they are usually placed several inches above the counter space but again no code height restriction on the walls. The one thing is it can not be placed in a wet location like above a tub unless outside the tub zone.


Mounting a 32" LED TV to Dry Wall without Stud Support

Bridge the studs by using wood and connecting the studs and forming a ledge for the tv then to be anchored to
The wood connect the studs which should be 16" apart giving the strength of both studs supporting the wood between then screw the tv using toggle bolts long enlighten to go through the bridge to the drywall


Can I get continuous power from a light controlled by a switch?

Yes, but probably not in a terribly convenient manner as you seem to be hoping for.

You'll need to find where the power is supplied to the lighting circuit:

It may be power to the switch and then switched power to the lights -
in which case you'll need to run a non-switched wire from the power
source at the switch to the place you want the new light.
It may be power supplied to one of the light boxes, and then a "switch loop" down to the switch - in which case you can tap continuous power at the light fixture where power is supplied on the feed side of the "switch loop." If that does not happen to the fixture you'd like to connect to, you'll need to run a non-switched wire from the power supply to the place you'd like the new light. If it does, congratulations, you've won the terribly convenient lottery.
it may be simpler to connect to a non-switched outlet circuit, if there are outlets in this garage as well as lights. If you're looking for one on the ceiling level, look at the garage door opener (or where one would be if there was one.) If none are convenient, again, run wire.


Why did Home Depot (.ca) try to sell me "Door Swings" with my fridge? What are they?

It is not a hardware item it is a service.  It is placed in the list of options needed or not, you simple decline.   As you see there are two items listed as optional installation some are needed some are not.

It is used if the refrigerator door swings open the wrong way for your kitchen they will shift it to the other side.  In your case French doors are both directions so you simply decline.  Same as the haul away or relocation, if your install is new you have no unit to haul or remove so decline.

The salesman should have informed you on both of these as to why and given a decision to decline.  Bad salesman not bad service as they are trying to prevent you from receiving the unit and then finding out after it is on site that doors swing incorrectly or you do not know what to do with the old unit.


What types of tools are required for making wood toys and models?

My grandfather used to make toys similar to these for a charity called Toys for Tots. To the best of my knowledge he built everything with a couple cordless drills, a 14" bandsaw and a multi-function sander like this one, and copious amounts of hot glue.

I personally would add to this a spindle sander and at least a skeleton set of quality hand tools(chisels, rasps and riffles, block plane etc.) but I'm more into the fit and finish of things than Grandad was. Basically you need to be able to:

dimension your stock
fit and shape your parts
assemble the parts

Given that the parts you'll be working with are generally fairly small, a bandsaw is a great choice because it's much safer than a table saw for short pieces and it can cut . And the sander is limited only by your imagination in terms of the variety of its uses. You can even use it as a lathe in a pinch (run a hanger bolt into the work piece, chuck the end of the bolt up in your drill, spin the piece up against the sander and viola)


Can I increase breaker size to prevent trips when using appliances?

No!
Circuit breakers aren’t chosen arbitrarily, or for fun. They are chosen so you don’t overload the wiring and devices (switches, receptacles, etc) in the circuit. If you swap in a larger breaker you seriously risk setting your wiring on fire and burning down your house.
Specifically, all - all! - the wire in a circuit would have to be 12 Ga and all the devices would have to be rated for 20A to make that swap. Any 14 Ga wire at all, and you can’t.
The correct action is to move loads to a different circuit (either existing or new) so you don’t overload it.


I mix multiple circuits in the same box a lot.

I would color the wires for the second circuit differently.

Use gray shrinkwrap or tape on the second circuit's neutrals.   Then use brown or blue shrinkwrap or tape on the second circuit's hots.

If the next guy is dumb enough to mix gray neutrals with white neutrals, well, you can do what you can do, but you  can't fix stupid.

I for one prefer to also use a differnt color for switched-hot (typically red), so mark the switched-hot for circuit 2 with both brown and red.


Yes - termites will do that. They will go anywhere there is moisture, and eat any cellulose products along the way. They will tunnel through Sheetrock and plaster. They will even eat the paper under the paint, and tunnel through the paint, to any wooden furniture or cardboard boxes, etc, against the wall.

If the moisture issue has been corrected, and/or the house treated, then they have most likely vacated or died. That doesn't mean that they won't come back though - usually entire neighborhoods are infested, and they are managed, but never completely eradicated.