Questions about base under paver stones for a patio

~Is the fact that clay is rocky going to cause any problems? I have removed as many rocks as I can but it is impossible to remove them all.

The rocks should not pose an issue as long as the soil base is compacted.

  Can the depth of my crushed stone base fluctuate so long as it is always at least 4" deep? After excavating and removing stones the soil bed is not a consistent depth- some areas have space for 4" of crushed stone but some areas could go as high as 8" or maybe even 12" of crushed stone. Is this ok? Does it matter if the soil bed is not perfectly even so long as it is compacted, has geotextile fabric over it, and the crushed stone is lever after installation?

The geotextile fabric is good to use as a base over the soil base. Being in New England, you will see cold winters with the possibility of frost heaving. Thicker crushed stone bases help prevent this. 4" is the minimum crushed stone you will see recommended. If possible, increase that to a minimum of 6" across the entire patio area. When laying thicker crushed stone bases, it is good to use a plate compactor with every couple inches (3" or so) of base. With 4" of base, the plate compactor can be used once it is all laid down. With 6" or more it should be used two or more times.

Also, extend the crushed stone base at least 6" outside of the area to be covered by pavers. This will ensure the pavers stay supported by the crushed stone even with expansion and contraction.

The fluctuating depth should be minimized as much as possible, but it will not ruin your patio as long as the base soil is compacted.

  ~My last questions are about drainage. The patio will slope down 4" away from the house over 16 feet, which I believe is a good slope?

Yes. That's fine. 1/4" vertical drop per horizontal linear foot is a commonly accepted slope for drainage.

  ~Lastly, the water will drain right towards my detached garage (an old 2-horse carriage house that isn't nearly as nice as that may sound), which has a concrete slab floor and no foundation. There will be about 12" between the end of the patio and the garage. My plan is to dig a canal here to collect the water and move to another part of the yard to drain. Is this a good idea or am I asking for trouble having the canal so close to the garage? The setup of my yard makes it nearly impossible to have it drain in any other direction.

A concern with the patio being so close to the garage is waterflow from the patio causing erosion and undercutting the garage's slab foundation. I would suggest installing a French drain to divert water down this path rather than an open canal. The French drain would use 4" perforated corrugated pipe with a sock buried at least 4" under the surface. The pipe should slope at least 1/4" vertical drop per 1 horizontal linear foot, the same as the patio. Cover the pipe with 4" of pea gravel and top it with larger rocks, such as river stones. The rocks will help to break up and slow the flow of water to prevent erosion of the surrounding soil. The French drain will help remove water quickly to keep the soil from becoming water logged.

If you don't have an appropriate place to locate the exit of the French drain, you can dig a dry well. It is essentially a large pit filled with gravel into which the French drain can deposit water to be absorbed by the surrounding soil.


Why are my LED lights flashing when powered from an inverter?

Buy a better inverter. The DC/AC circuits in your 10W lights evidently like a pure sine wave (as provided by grid/mains power) on the AC input side, and your inverter is almost certainly not a pure sine wave inverter (just based on your symptoms, but feel free to confirm/deny).


If like the one we have the light is remote controlled from a small keypad or rotary control.
This operates either wirelessly or wired. The actual dimming is done in the housing where the lamp and fan motor are located. The solid state device that does the dimming has failed. Why? The light that was in the fan....you did replace it didn't you ? probably became a short circuit when the filament failed like tungsten lamps do. This short caused more current in the control device can handle so it became a fuse and failed. This is seldom a user replaceable part. You can obtain a replacement control module.

You'll need the manufacturers name and model number.  Do a web search for Fan Parts. If the site you find listing the fan model included photos find the comparable control be appearance. There is a good chance thats the one you need. You will find the price to be about $40.
If you aren't comfortable with tools or wiring or standing on a ladder ask the dealer to reccomend a repair person.

If the control IS NOT wireless it might be a module mounted the wall switch box and that's a pretty easy fix and less exspensive. Be safe and call an electrician rather than risk fire or electrocution.


Anything can be done but it's hard for me to believe this is a DIY project. You will need to find a way to bridge over the window with an arch or header in such a way that the load is adequately supported. Also if the wall is important to the lateral strength of the building (and an exterior solid masonry wall probably is), you need to make sure the entire opening is framed out in a way that doesn't affect the shear strength of the wall.


When digging a trench, conduit means you only dig it once, and makes future wire damage much less likely. Up to you, but often the price of conduit + wires is not worse, and sometimes better than, direct burial cable. I am also a big fan of putting in an extra conduit for future use, say if you decided to extend your network coverage to the barn. I prefer schedule 80 PVC in the gound unless I have a special consideration where rigid metallic conduit (RMC, it's like galvanized water pipe) makes more sense. In Barns, I prefer to keep using EMT conduit for the individual circuits, as rodents, wires, and barns can be a recipe for barn fires otherwise.

Aluminum wire is a perfectly reasonable choice for a heavy feeder - the modern alloys don't have the issues the old stuff used for 15/20 amp interior circuits did, and the cost is far less than equivalent copper, even though aluminum has to be a larger size. It is the standard material used for heavy feeders, though if you are unfamiliar with proper preparation for connecting it, it's worth having an electrician drop by to make those connections correctly (torque matters, anti-oxidant paste matters, and prepping the ends for the paste matters.)

For 150 feet at 100 amps with 75C connections and wire insulation, 1/0 aluminum is conservatively adequate. 90c would drop that to #1, but 90C wire insulation is much easier to come by than 90C rated connections, from what I recall when shopping. #4 is adequate for the equipment grounding conductor.

That information is not some magic I know, just me using one of the many web wire calculators that reference back to the NEC requirements. I would do the same for conduit size once a wire size/insulation type is chosen, though I highly recommend making the conduit bigger than the minimum size for your own ease of pulling - it's not very expensive to upsize conduit, and pulling near maximum fill is a pain.


How do I search for a mixed smart-normal switch plate?

The large rectangular opening is called "Decora"
There are only 3 popular shapes:

Small slot:  the traditional switch, like you have now.
Two ovals: for traditional receptacles (also dual switches)
Large rectangle aka "Decora": which covers your smart switch, AND all Decora switches, AND all Decora receptacles, including all GFCI and AFCI receptacles and switches.

The big three. "blank" not pictured.  There are others, but they're rare.
Any competent hardware store will stock 2-gang cover plates of every possible combination, including "1 side blank" and "both sides blank".  Typically in at least 3 colors!

They also make plain switches in Decora, so if all else fails, you could replace the other switch with a "Decora plain switch", wired exactly the same.  And then you could use a 2-gang "Decora both sides" cover plate.  Those are so common Walmart stocks them.

graphic courtesy Kyle Switch Plates
source of graphic


No, it is not okay.  Make sure this is fixed before it's covered up.  I'd have to search through the code books to find all the relevant code sections, but simply looking at this there appears to be a few problems.

I'm pretty sure you can't have connections like that in concealed location. So if this wall is going to be finished (covered with drywall), they have to be moved.

If the pipe is within a certain distance from the edge of the wood member it passes through, steel plates have to be used to protect the pipe.

I'm not sure if non-rigid pipe is allowed in concealed locations, but I'm sure if it is, it has to be protected in some way.

Call your local government, and have this inspected.


Why does this house have 240V outlets in all rooms?

I have seen this several times in the PNW higher wattage plug in heaters used to be very cheap.  In this case they used portable heaters, not safe in my opinion but legal, if they had 15 or 20 am devices there are different types of receptacles that are legal for 220-240 devices dryer receptacles are 30 amp and would not be legal for smaller loads but a portable heater would be legal.


Ok to add cellulose over blown fiberglass insulation?

Add the cellulose right on top, I have seen folks remove the old but this is crazy both materials are insulation and combined the provide a higher R value. I would caution if all the moisture issues are not taken care of cellulose will pick up moisture and hold it longer than fiberglass.


What type Roof Vent is best to reduce ACU heat load?

I would suggest a solar powered vent that way when it is sunny or more heat load the solar powered vent(s) can do a better job at removing the excess heat.
the first house I added a fan I used a standard 120v  thermally activated fan it would kick in mid morning and cut out in the late evening it made a massive difference in that homes comfort but did cost a few dollars for the power.
the next house I used solar. The great thing about solar is I have the highest airflow in the early afternoon when it really needs it and it was still cooling until the evening.  I live right at the 45 parallel so your results may be different than mine But the solar fan was great really reduced the heat load in each house and became the first thing I have done to my houses Before the first summer. I have not lived in any of my last 3 homes long enough for the fan to fail or the solar cells but as with most motors greasing or oiling the bearings extends the life and the solar cells were rated at 20 years.
I have had really good luck with solar but Oregon rarely gets 100+Lots of hazy cloudy days so maybe my solar cells are lasting longer because of that reason. I do have to spray them off with water as the horses kick up dust and that slows the fan down. But that is the extent of my maintenance at my current home after 5-6 years.


Furnace runs for about 5-minutes only and shuts off

The limit switch should always be at 0 ohms. Since it is bouncing around it sounds like a bad switch. Check the temperature at the outlet of the furnace and at the inlet of the furnace. Subtract the two to get you the delta T. Look on the name plate for the correct delta T for your particular furnace. It will always be a range such as 30-60 degrees. If you are over the max number you will need more air flow. The limit switch is much higher than this number however and you should not be anywhere near hot enough to trip the limit switch. If you are measuring over 140 degrees or so at the outlet it is likely the limit switch is doing its job and you need more air flow


What's the minimum recommended compressor HP/PSI to spray paint?

Paint sprayers have a pretty low PSI requirement.  I'd be more concerned about the CFM (Cubic feet per minute) rating of your compressor.  That would indicate whether it can compress the air fast enough to keep up with the sprayer.


How do I replace a triple dimmer switch to a much smaller conventional switch?

Well, this is a really old question but it sounds like your dimmer is a decora style switch.  You can switch this decora dimmer to a regular style switch and buy a new cover plate.  Alternatively, you could install a standard decora switch in place of the dimmer switch.

However, if by 'triple' switch, you mean three way switch, you should be warned that diagnosing an incorrectly wired 3-way switch can be confusing to the electrical neophyte.  Additionally, because a traveler can be electrified when you expect the wire to be off behind a switch, it can be much more dangerous to work on for someone who is a novice with 3-way switches.  I would strongly recommend using an electrician to solve this problem.  If not, I'd strongly recommend turning off all the power while working on this problem, labeling everything as/before you disconnect the switches, and using a continuity tester (while the power is off) to determine which wire is the traveler to which switch.

Of course, another possibility is that you have a 3-way configuration but the dimmer is a single pole dimmer.  Switching to a 3-way dimmer switch could solve this problem but you'll still to know or figure out the correct traveler configuration for your situation, which will require a decent understanding of 3-way switches.

If in doubt, be safe and use an electrician.


Perhaps slide a thin piece of aluminum flashing up under the aluminum siding so that it overlaps the lower flashing.  Attach it with a few nails just under the lip of the siding and spray the nail heads with the spray rubber stuff or put a dab of caulk over them.


Manual methods to compact base for concrete?

When I was younger and worked in foundation construction we made our own effective manual soil compactors. They consisted of two parts, a pipe handle and a round base. The handle was a five or six foot long piece of 1" galvanized pipe. The base was a cast iron wheel hub from junk yard similar to that pictured below. The hubs were about six or seven inches in diameter and weighed enough that they easily absorbed the shock when tamped to the ground.

The pipe handle was threaded into a pipe fitting that was welded into the center hole of the hub. (Obviously the grease cover of the hub was discarded). If I recall there was no issue of the bottom side of the hub having a small diameter center hole. Use of the compactor was a good amount of exercise and always seemed to be assigned to us young folks at the time by my father who was the foreman.


Furnace shutting off, requires frequent resetting

Blocked flue and/or insufficient combustion air inlets.

Charging $300 without at least giving you a complete understanding of the problem was pretty lame.

That looks like the flue rollout sensor. If that is what is tripping, then you might have a blocked flue. Verify that the damper above that opens fully when the boiler turns on. Does it? Also check the combustion vent outside and make sure there's no obstruction like a bird's nest. Turn the water heater to pilot, turn off the furnace, remove the flue cap outside and inspect it with a flashlight. The button is on the bottom of the rollout sensor I presume (I cannot really see it).

If the flue damper does not open correctly then disconnect the actuator and manually lock it in the open position. Doing that will hurt efficiency a little, but the boiler will run.

The other obvious thing to check is combustion air inlets. I see no outside air inlets in the photo. There needs to be significant airflow into the room from outside to supply combustion and flow out through the flue. If the room is sealed tightly from the outdoors then that is a problem.


Can <1% asbestos vermiculite be removed yourself?

Yes.  You can remove it yourself.

You are over thinking this.  Doing a one-time removal job is not going to hurt you.  Wear a respirator and shower/wash clothes right after doing the job.

Asbestos exposure is only something you need to worry about if you're going to be doing it every day for a career.


Am I required to have a doorknob lock on my exterior door?

Some jurisdictions, such as New York City, require self-closing, self-locking doors to the entry of multiple family dwellings (,8 or more units), but do not seem to require them on smaller housing units (such as one or two family homes) or on the individual apartments within a larger unit.
Even when locks are required, they do not need to be in the knob of the door. Often there is no in knob lock but an auxiliary self locking mechanism higher up on the door.  Many exit door locksets do not even have a knob, but a thumb latch. A single key often controls the self locking latch and the deadbolt.

I do not know your particular locale's code, but I would be surprized if there is a regulation about locks at all (other than a prohibition on a door that can't be opened from the inside without a key). It would be very strange if they required an in-knob lock, especialyl if you have an auxiliary latch or deadbolt.

SUPPLEMENT

I since have found more code in NYC concerning mandated deadbolts and door chains or similar devices on individual apartments, but still nothing requiring an in-knob lock.


To make long story short from what I see my best guess is that you have condensation issue. Most likely since your pump is in the corner there is somewhere thermal insulation missing and since you said that there is draft that means cold air is coming inside. Where from?.... I cannot be 100% sure. My money would be on the wall because most likely places where pipes are going through the wall aren’t insulated, but since you said that you are feeling draft is coming from the floor maybe something is happening over there. Anyway placing thermal insulation under the pump (best if possible) and on the places where there are pipes should fix your problem.


First you need to decide if you want one drill to do everything. It isn't always the best choice but it can be a good choice if drilling into brick or concrete is rare.

Functional types

Drill Driver - should include separate settings for drilling and driving.
There will be a variable torque setting that avoids tearing the heads of screws.
Combi Drill - Adds a hammer-action function for more efficient (faster) drilling
into brick and concrete using masonry drill-bits.

It is worth saying that a separate impact driver is probably a good buy if you do a lot of driving of screws. It also saves you from having to frequently swap between drill-bit  and screwdriver-bit.

You can get hex-drive drill-bits for drilling small holes. They are more expensive but this quick-change ability might be useful if you have only one tool for both drilling and driving.

Power

You also need to choose between corded and non-corded

Battery portable - much more convenient, especially for outdoor use.
Batteries need replacing every few years and are not cheap.
The drills themselves are not cheap, though budget brands exist.
Corded - Generally much cheaper and more powerful.
You have the obvious inconvenience of a lead. A Corded drill and an extension lead
will probably be more effective for drilling brick and concrete.

If you pick a battery drill, you'll need to consider voltage and capacity (Amp-Hours or Ah). For lightweight occasional use a 10.8V drill is adequate. The newer models are very good. If you really need more power and don't care so much about weight and handling qualities you could go for a higher voltage system.

You sometimes get a choice of battery chargers, the more expensive ones monitor battery-state and prevent overcharging. I've ruined a battery by accidentally leaving it on-charge overnight instead of for 3 hours. A plug-in timer-socket can help. More recent battery types (i.e. not NiCd) may be less prone to this issue.

If you buy a corded drill, it is worth considering ones with a standard 43mm collar. This would let you later use it with a drill-stand.

Masonry

If you really want to drill deep, wide holes in masonry as easily as in butter, buy a corded SDS drill. Also good if your main objective is to impress friends and passing females†. I suppose you could use one to drive screws in much the same way you could use it to hammer in nails.

Brand

Note that most manufacturers have both home-owner and tradesman brands (e.g. Bosch have "green" and "blue" ranges, DeWalt is the more tradesman-oriented brand of Black&Decker). Unless you can get a special price or expect to use the tool many hours every day of every week -- you should probably buy a non-professional brand.

There is considerable range of quality in drills. In my opinion, the cheapest stuff is only worth buying if you don't need precision or reliability and expect to write-off the investment and throw it away after a single project. If you want a tool to last ten years I would buy the better-known US, European or Japanese brands - who are likely to care about their reputation. A lot of big-box store-specific brands seem to be custom-badged cheap very low quality products made in anonymous factories in China.

Me

My first drill was a Black & Decker corded two-speed drill. I still have it (it is ancient) but nowadays it sometimes makes a nasty shrill noise on the high-speed range so I replaced it with a Bosch corded combi-drill that was on special offer. I don't use this often

I have a Bosch blue 10.8V combi-drill that has 2Ah batteries. I am very impressed with this. It replaces a heavier Black & Decker 12V combi drill that I broke. This is what I use most.

I have a small Bosch 3.6V screwdriver for convenience (saves swapping bits and is v small) - I wouldn't expect it to drive hundreds of screws in a session!

† It won't. They might humour your self-deception a little though.


Toilet tank slow leak such that it runs for a few seconds periodically to refill

Hoofbeats = horses
Which is to say a common problem like this is still probably the flapper rather than some exotic unicorn of a problem.
Here is an experiment:

Get bricks or something comparably heavy and inert.  Put bricks on top of the flapper in the tank pressing it down.  That thing will be sealed. Beet juice or food coloring or not as you see fit.  If you don't get any more leaking then it is the flapper somehow.

Why might you still not get a good seal with a new flapper?  Maybe the bottom of the toilet tank around the hole is uneven - hard water deposits?  A good first step for stuff not working as it should is to clean it.  I will testify that one need not be a mechanical genius to clean stuff and have it work better.  I would start with scrubbing the bottom of the tank where the flapper sits when closed.  Maybe scrub with an old toothbrush or scouring pad.  See how it works then.
Without the bricks.  See how it works without the bricks.  Reserve those for later use.


how to attach a replacement soft pad on a Model #32039598 CRAFTSMAN Sander

This exploded diagram shows a set of screws holding the pad to the motor mechanism.


Green grass streaks over septic tank field

Erma Bombeck, humorist who wrote several very funny books, one was entitled: "The grass  is always greener over the septic tank". So unless you have surfacing effluent, bad odors, floating grass, just consider it free fertilizer.


What is the best order of operations for painting a newly renovated space?

I feel that you have the right idea here, but I would save the trim for last; why, you ask? Assuming you will use paint with a gloss on the trim (you should), it is not a problem to use gloss paint over flat paint overspray, but the converse of that is not the case.
consider:

plaster and your unprimed MDF should have different types of primer (PVA or other water-base primer for plaster/gypsum board vs. solvent-base primer for MDF, water-based primer on raw MDF can cause swelling)
prime and paint trim and doors with professional-grade brushes rather than spraying


Insulation board for my unfinish garage ceiling

Really any insulation will do enough to make your air conditioner do the job. Obviously the more the better, but only to a point. I'd guess that anything more than about R-15 won't improve efficiency much given the small temperature differential. The key is to reduce overall conditioned space volume and prevent mixing with outdoor air. If you use foil-faced I might install it foil-up, since its purpose is to reflect radiant heat.

Your garage should have vents down low to allow a full circulation path. Soffit vents are typical. without that there's very little movement in the attic, and moisture buildup could be a concern.


How much does a pallet of durock 1/4" cement board weigh?

1710 lbs, 1.9 psf for each 1/4" 3'x5' sheet. You're correct about 60 pieces per unit.
Durock Spec Sheet

Showing my math:

3' x 5' = 15 square feet

15 square feet x 1.9 pounds per square feet = 28.5 pounds per sheet

28.5 pounds per sheet x 60 sheets per unit = 1710 pounds


Repairing / refurbishing cedar swing set

It's basically a matter of...

Replacing all compromised components with new wood or composite ones
Establishing a base that dries out quickly after the rain, so that the wood can also dry

I'd replace the wood with pressure treated or cedar parts. I'd also put the set on blocks, as you've done, and fill in around the blocks with sand, wood chips, or rubber playground material.

You can paint or seal something like this, but you can't really protect all the mated surfaces and fastener holes. This is where the rot occurs most aggressively. Repair it and be happy until it needs more repairs. Repeat.


How can I test if a PVC irrigation pipe is in use?

Maybe pour some warm water around the uncertain pipe and run your irrigation system again and see if the colder irrigation water cools down the pipe in question, or if the pipe stays warm, indicating no water flow?


Is there a way to thaw a frozen pipe, if you can't access the pipe?

If it's a metal/copper pipe, you could wrap the exposed portion of the pipe in heat tape to help speed the thaw. Since metal and water are good conductors of heat, the heat from the tape will spread fairly quickly down the pipe.

Or even just use a hair dryer. Not as efficient or quick, but still helpful.


Grout will also mildew over time. The other problem is that grout is not as good as caulk in repelling water which is the reason it is used where shower surfaces meet at 90 degree angles. Your installer did the right thing by caulking those corners.
Eventually, you'll want to remove the old caulk as it starts to break down and recaulk it. It's a basic maintenance process that's necessary in keeping any shower leak free.
Additionally, new grout should be sealed which will help maintain it.


Why use AFCI receptacles rather than AFCI breakers?

AFCI breakers generally have ground fault protection also, whereas I do not believe AFCI receptacles do. This is sometimes a problem on houses with "shared neutral" circuits (sometimes called Edison Circuits) as the ground fault protection logic will trip the breaker upon application of a load.

There are (or have been, not sure bout 2014 NEC) restrictions on the use of AFCI receptacles: you are/were not allowed to use them unless metal clad conduit was used to protect wiring from the breaker panel to the first receptacle on the circuit (the first receptacle is where you install the AFCI, it protects all downstream receptacles on the circuit).

Please consult a licensed electrician as they should be familiar with local code requirements.


How to clean oxidized stainless steel Espresso maker?

Whether you have the silver/chrome base or the stainless steel, then unfortunately, no. The steel has lost it's temper (metallurgical changes) and it is not stainless anymore (it can rust now), and this aspect can't be cleaned or repaired. It could be refinished by electroplating it (not really a DIY thing, and although there are electroplaters for hire, the price would be hundreds of dollars).

On the other hand, I might suggest using a high temperature paint/enamel. The silver (spray) paints just don't make a good chrome finish (so I wouldn't suggest that); but other colors could work. You should not use paint on the inside of the coffee maker, and some of the high temperature paints (like manifold paint) need to be cooked for it to cure. So you should disassemble the coffee maker (remove any plastic) before painting and baking it.

If you decide to paint it, read (especially on the paint can) about surface preparations.


Accidentally removed part of rubber strip between bathtub and glass while replacing silicone caulk

It is moldy and your best bet would be to remove the glass and re-install it as if it were new. Remove all the caulk, rubber seal and clean the bottom and sides of the glass frame. Scrape all surfaces with a single edge blade to remove any film and then clean with vinegar to kill off any remaining mold. Let the surfaces totally dry. Put a bead of quality silicone caulk on the tub and wall surfaces where the glass frame will sit. Mount the glass/doors and then caulk the entire inside of the tub, tub to glass, tub to wall and wall to glass Also caulk the miter joints on the frame. Wait a day and then caulk the entire outside of the tub.

If you can't remove the glass, do everything else and try to clean under the frame as good as possible. Scrape, clean, dry and caulk like above. Good luck.


Can Simpson Strong-Tie H1Z hurricane clips be installed on the inside of a wall?

H1Z clips, per the manufacturer, belong on the outside with the "ears" facing outward (not resting on the top plate).

The purpose of having the clips on the outside are twofold:

So the clip is attached to the rafter tail rather than the ceiling joist

The rafter board and the ceiling joist could become separated in high winds
If the rafter board is held down, it will hold the ceiling joist down as well

So the upward force on the roof does not cause the top plate to pull away from the walls.

If the clip is on the inside the, only thing holding the top plate on securely would be drywall (or often nothing in the case of an unfinished garage). The wind could "bend" the sheathing and easily break it due to the angle of force.
However, if the clip is on the outside, the sheathing will keep the top plate from separating because the sheathing would hold it down where the clip is. Any upward force would be fighting against the sheathing whereas on the inside, it would have just been fighting against drywall or some nails.

With that said, if you put the clips on the outside of the wall (under the sheathing and above the soffit), an inspector may not be able to see that they are installed. Some inspectors might prefer them on the inside for that reason.

http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/hpsfgtsdtt/T-C-HTIECON17.pdf


What's the advantage of PEX crimp/clamp over the expansion connection?

As I understand it, the expander only works on PEX-A tubing which is more expensive and not as durable/chemical resistant.  I have found that in many instances I had to make a connection in a tight space and needed the compact compression ring tool.  The expander has the advantage of working before the connection is made, so I suppose if you plan ahead you can avoid using the tool in a tight space, but the tool looks a bit more difficult to use in, say, a crawlspace where you'll be lugging around an extension cord everywhere you go.

Just my 2 cents.  I've never used an expander before.

Edit:
It also appears that contractors complain about the expander not working in cold conditions.


Wiring a pull chain pendant light fixture

The switch is supposed to be in the hot wire, and in your lamp the black goes to and from the switch. In the house wiring the hot wire is the one with the black insulation, the neutral has white insulation and the ground is often bare, but may be green insulation.

In your lamp base the black goes through the switch and was at one time connected to four smaller  black wires, but the connection has been broken. If you want to connect a flat polarized grounded cord to this lamp, know that the center wire in the cord is the ground (connect to the bare wire in the fixture and, of the two outside wires, the smooth one is the hot (connect to black of light fixture) and the ribbed one is the neutral (connect to white of light fixture).

EDIT

If you want to do this, you would have to attach the fixture to an electrical box (e.g., a pancake box) which would be surface mounted where you want the lamp. The cord would come out a hole in the back or side of the box and the cord would have to have a "strain relief" on it. metal pancake box

But for all the trouble you'd have to go through (and some expense) to repair and adapt this fixture, it would be better to just buy a new fixture that is designed to do what you want.


Lack of soffit vents with the use of ridge vents on a 1941 home

Adding a vent to the ceiling of your porch would only be beneficial if you open up any exterior windows and doors leading into the porch. Then you'd have air flow from outside through the porch and up into the attic. The only time it would be useful would be in the summer when you'd be replacing 130 degree air with 85 degree air. so yes, it would benefit in the summer. If you opened the doors leading to the porch from your living space in the summer, you'd be sucking AC air from the living space to the porch into the attic.... not too efficient.


Best way to remove tv projector mount to access air filter?

A couple ideas:

Reverse the mount. It looks like the arms differ from one side to the other.

Install some plastic or metal bushings between the mounting arms and the projector to give clearance. This depends on available headroom, of course, but may only need to be 1/2" or a bit more.

Trim the ends off the mount arms short of the filter cover using a rotary tool or hacksaw. Use a suitable spacer and bolt to re-secure the bars at the end of each arm through holes you'd drill. This is important to keep the bars from spreading and losing the mounting bolts.

 | |      | |
 | | ____ | |
 | ||    || |
 | ||____|| |


Prototype: 12 DC car battery to power standard 120 VAC hand tools

I think your math all checks out and you have good command of the concepts here.
You need a few more concepts though.
Lead-acid batteries are bizarre. While they are cheap, they do not work the way they obviously ought to work.  The #1 thing they don't do is deep-discharge well.  If you run a lead-acid battery from 90% to 10%, you will get three to 100 of these full cycles before the battery loses capacity dramatically and is kaput.
People who depend on lead-acid batteries for deep-cycling find they can only use the top 30% of capacity on a regular basis or they will get very short life out of their battery.
Further, the type of battery matters a great deal. Car starting batteries are made for delivering a big one-shot impulse, but do particularly badly in deep-cycling.  Deep-cycle batteries do well with deep cycling, but have too much internal resistance to start an engine in adverse conditions.
They are a big pain in the butt, but you like the price.
If you want a battery that actually behaves like it says on the tin, then look at lithium (which has different kinds of feisty) - or the perfect large battery is nickel-cadmium or nickel-iron.  I have a set of NiCds that came to us as scrap in 1986, and they're still going.  Nickel-iron is impervious to almost any operational abuse, and last 40 years, but have quite high internal resistance so are not good at starting engines.


What type of concrete sealer to use to prevent frost heaves in my driveway?

Epoxy is not light stable (ie: it will discolor) and silicates are densifiers, but do not seal concrete.  It's likely that you have a broom finished driveway and machine trowelled garage, so whatever chemistry you use needs to be compatible with both types.  Most film formers (acrylic, epoxy, urethane, etc) will require an acid etching (at minimum) for proper adhesion on trowelled substrates.  Though film formers are usually preferred for their aesthetic qualities, and you've said that aesthetics aren't that important.

Bottom line is, I would recommend a penetrating sealer; either silane or siloxane.  You'll get maximum protection from freeze/thaw damage and deicing chemicals, and good longevity (about 7 years outdoors, 10 in the garage).  ChemMasters offers silanes with 40 % to 100 % active ingredients (Aquanil Plus 40, 55 or 100).  These are solvent-based products, and you may find the solvent fumes overwhelming when used in an enclosed area like a garage.  Spallguard WB is water-based (no solvent fumes) with 10 % active siloxane (siloxane is a larger molecule and requires fewer actives to seal concrete).  This may be a better choice for you.

*Please note that I am affiliated with ChemMasters (link in profile) and there might be similar products available from other vendors *


Can an air conditioner rated for 50Hz be used on a grid at 60Hz?

Don't ship an air conditioning unit overseas, for Pete's sake.

Your cash stake in that unit is "what it will cost to buy a comparable one on Craigslist at your destination" minus "what you can sell this one for here".  That number may even be zero or less than zero.

The only way the shipping costs won't absolutely blow away your cash stake by a factor of ten, is if you ship your goods by seagoing container.

Even more, the Philippines have a weird dialect of 240V power where neutral basically does not exist.  Taking an older A/C unit, you may find the unit has suffered some insulation failure between neutral and ground; harmless enough in Qatar/Europe but in the Philippines' strange power it spins your electric meter or shocks people who touch it.

To say nothing of the 50/60Hz incompatibility, which is a deal killer all by itself.


i have never seen a zero clearance unit without a door assembly already attached.  was this unit open hearth design and then you retrofitted it with the door/glass?  or was the door/glass just missing and you replaced it?
is it a gas unit or wood burning?  the gas units can get pretty toasty right at the top above the trim escutcheon, but it could also be you don't have a tight seal on the new door to the old firebox, thus letting some combustion gas out and giving you too much heat, plus a little carbon monoxide for good measure.  if its a wood unit, you don't need to worry too much other than the heat degrading the tile mortar or adhesive.  either way, it should never get above 45 deg c, as that's the limit for temps on combustibles (tile no, but wood behind tile, yes) around a zero clearance unit


Exterior air conditioning pipe insulation

Gloss white paint reflects most heat.
a clean slick surface that does not hold dirt is best. Silver/aluminum reflects more BUT white re-emits most of the radiation it absorbs and silver does not . Acrylic white is not so good;great resistance to UV but it chalks more so the surface becomes dull/dirty.  I read this 40 yr ago in research for oil storage tankage, no hope of finding the reference. But when I see painted oil tanks today ,they are white so apparently the physics has not changed.


Old wires in kitchen ceiling seem wrong. Any thoughts?

The numbers are almost certainly a courtesy from the previous electrician -- odds are that the other end of each wire carries the same number, so if you have all the electrical boxes open you can confirm how things are connected without having to trace everything electrically. They may also correspond to that original electrician's notes on how this was going to be wired. They almost certainly do not mean anything else.

The bare safety-ground wire should have been connected to a ground screw on the fixture, at least until you clipped the wires.

If wire-nuts are installed properly, they don't need electrical tape to adequately secure and insulate the connections. Tape can sometimes be helpful, sometimes be an unnecessary nuisance. Unless there's something odd about local code, not being taped is fine.

CHECK THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT CAME WITH THE FAN, but GENERALLY SPEAKING, the black/blue/white color coding on fans is that white is neutral, black is hot for one part of the device (eg the fan) and blue is hot for the other part of the device (the light). That permits turning these on and off independently from the wall switches, if the necessary wires and switches have been installed to do so. If you're replacing an existing light that only had a single switched circuit available, both blue and black from the fan get connected to black (hot) from the ceiling, and if you want independent control you use the pull-chain switches on the fan and its light fixture.

(If your fan doesn't have a light fixture installed, that can generally be added later quite easily; wiring both hots now means you don't have to open the ceiling again if you decide you do want a light there.)

Exception: If you were installing a wireless remote control -- again check the instructions that came with it -- that generally installs between the hot from the ceiling and the two hots to the fan and light, so it can provide independent control even if there's only one hot coming from the wall switch.


This is a long slog, but it's straightforward. You have at least 7 cables.  The 3-way circuit and 3 switches can explain 5 of them at most.

Don't unhook anything else.

First, since you know there's one of a pair of 3-way switches here, Romex Cable #1, the /3 cable, can be positively identified as being for the 3-way circuit, since nothing else would work.  Fortunately we see its white wire join four other black wires, so white is being used to send always-hot to the other 3-way.  The other two wires (red and black) are travelers.  Mark them both with yellow tape so they can be easily recognized as travelers.  The common terminal on this 3-way switch must therefore go to the lamp.  That would be a cable where the white joins other whites, but the black is in search of this 3-way switch.  It looks like you have that exact situation on Romex #4.

Romex cable #7 and #6 both have their hots going to a wire-nut (the one with the 3-way white).  That means one of them is supply, and the other one takes power onward to another point-of-use. It doesn't really matter which one is which.

Romex cable #5 black seems to go to the smart switch on the left, so presumably it goes to the lamp controlled by the left smart switch.

Romex Cables #2 and #3 have their neutrals going into the big bundle. Then, I can't quite tell, but it appears they have their hots joined together with a pigtail, which is then nutted onto the left smart switch.   If this smart switch controls 2 lights, then this explains all the cables.

If the two installed switches are working, then all you have left to do is wire the /3 switch, yellows to brass, and solo black wire from #4 to black.


That is an Erico MP1S bracket.  Used for low voltage wiring, the tabs can be bent back and 3/4 conduit attached to it.


What are some ways to find a leak in a pipe?

This is the easiest way I know of to find them:

1) Dry off all pipes with a paper towel

2) Run the water, garbage disposal, spray hose, etc. - anything you think contributes to the leak

3) Take a dry piece of paper towel and wipe each joint and pipe. Inspect the paper towel after each one.  When you find a spot thats wet, you've probably found your leak.


Does every light within a fixture need to be grounded or just the fixture itself?

You will really need to answer this question yourself as only you will be able to determine if the whole iron pipe structure will maintain its electrical conductivity from end to end now or over it's full service life. If there is any doubt then it behooves you to string safety GND wires throughout the fixture and connect then all back to a reliable earth (safety) GND back at the junction box.

The goal needs to be protect anyone touching any metal part of the fixture (which seems highly likely due to sheer size alone) from getting a shock in the case that either a neutral wire or a live mains wire happens to short out to the pipe structure.

They always say "Safety First" if that helps in any meaningful way.


Does a Daikin AC remember the settings when it was last turned on, or what the remote is set to on power-on?

I read the manual for your AC and it did not contain any information which could answer your question. I will guess and say that your AC will remember the "Intelligent eye" setting through a power cycle.

Why not just use your Universal Remote to turn the AC off and on and see how it behaves? There is an "Intelligent eye" indicator on the cooling unit so you can quickly see what mode the AC is in.

You don't give any details on the Universal Remote you are using, but the ones I am familiar with tend to be programmable. So if you do need the Universal Remote to send a command to set the "Intelligent eye" feature on, you should be able to program the UR to do so.


Most durable paint type for baseboards and trim

"Two Pack" or "2K" is the hardest paint. It is polyurethane based.
It has a volatile organinc solvent, and outgasses during curing so use lots of ventilation, the stuff is nasty, positive pressure respirators are used in industrial applications.
Clear polyurethane (two part or one part) can be used over existing paint to protect it.


Can I put a standard light switch in line with a 240v electric baseboard heater to cut power to it?

Yes, you can do that if the switch is a double pole switch rated for 240 volts or higher and is rated for the current of the heater. The National Electrical Code requires that the switch be rated for the load it serves. This means voltage AND current.
There are also line voltage thermostats with a positive OFF position so you wouldn't need the switch.
Whether you use a single pole or double pole switch it will work the same. It is a single phase circuit and it will work either way. However, the Code requires that the switch disconnect all ungrounded conductors. See below.
The difference is, with a double pole switch you are breaking the circuit in two places at the same time instead of one. This reduces the amount of pitting on the device contacts. With a double-break device the contacts will last longer at any given voltage. At 240 volts contact pitting is much higher than at 120 volts.
Additionally the National Electrical Code requires that all ungrounded conductors to fixed electric space heating be disconnected:

424.19 Disconnecting Means.  Means shall be provided to simultaneously disconnect the heater, motor controller(s), and supplementary overcurrent protective device(s) of all fixed electric space-heating equipment from all ungrounded conductors.
(C) Unit Switch(es) as Disconnecting Means.  A unit switch(es) with a marked “off” position that is part of a fixed heater and disconnects all ungrounded conductors shall be permitted as the disconnecting means required by this article where other means for disconnection are provided in the types of occupancies in 424.19(C)(1) through (C)(4).
...
(3) One-Family Dwellings.  In one-family dwellings, the service disconnecting means shall be permitted to be the other disconnecting means.

So, a 240 volt circuit would require a two pole switch if it used as a disconnect for the heater.
Good luck!


Why is the interior wall cold to touch during the winter?

It could be just air leaks and simply caulking the exterior may remedy the cold areas completely. In addition to caulking, cold spots are typically due to the lack of insulation or a poor installation of insulation.

If caulking can't be put anywhere apparent or does little to nothing, then you'll have to rip the walls and corners open to air seal and insulate with the proper materials and methods.

There can't be any openings, gaps or loose fitting of insulation nor its seams and everything heading to the outside must be caulked.


question about a gas furnace having to light repeatedly

I consult to most all warm air furnace OEMs.  The best answer is it lights the first time, every time.  There are of course things that can prevent that...low gas pressure switches, low air pressure switches, limits not being made (door switch, air switch, fan speed proving, condensate switches, etc.).  That being said...EVERYTHING good...GAS supply...AIR supply...SUFFICIENT spark/ignition source (all three parts of the fire triangle), begin to look at the flame sensing.  Very early systems were single rod...hot surface ignitor glows & lights flame...then switches to sensing.  This system works well..for about a year and degrades and will not sense well.  Junk them.  The two rod system has an HSI to ignite, and a flamerod to sense.  These are great.  HSI must get fully to temp to light.  If it actually "lights" the flame everytime..it is good.  The flamerod sends the signal to the flamesafeguard...which powers the gas valve and monitors all the limit switches.  Good signal..keeps valve open...heats the house.  There are specific meters to check flamesignal (DC microAmps)...but they may be difficult to read if the signal is manipulated by the flamesafeguard manufacturer (also must be read in series).  Easy fix, take a piece of very fine emory paper and clean the oxidation from the flamerod.  It will give a higher signal.  A flamerod light two or three times will help warm it up and boost the signal...hence what you have.  Oxidation will kill the signal.  There is some science to flamerods & grounding area ratios.  Typically 1:4..but your OEM figures that out for you.  Make sure your green ground screw is actually grounded...this will boost your signal.  There is one somewhere near the actual burner...and one on the cabinet.  If the clean flamerod (properly located & installed) fixes your problem...get a spare.  Cleaning them causes micro grooves...more surface area to oxidize.  Nobody wants to clean a $7 widget everytime the house gets cold.  Best Wishes.


4 black wires for light switch box, 3 white w/ Picture

If your new switch is the same as the old you have skinned a wire or have hot touching ground.  You should be able to connect all of the black wires together and the light would be on all the time and not trip the breaker . The switch is a simple open closed device. 1 hot feeding another device and the switch to the light when the switch is in the on position all the wires are connected. You need to find the short, it could be by chance the lamp failed with a short , not likely but a possibility a skinned black wire touching the metal box will cause the breaker to trip.

Another possibility is a switch leg where white is used as a hot I cannot clearly see the rest of the wiring , if you only messed with the 1 pig tail (just black wires) look for the damaged insulation.


Do I need a cordless screwdriver if I own a cordless drill?

The electric screwdriver can sometimes fit where a bulky drill cannot, e.g., electrical boxes.  Apart from that, the drill is a fine screwdriver (assuming it has a clutch, of course, but I have never seen a battery-powered drill that does not).

Don't get rid of your corded drill. Battery-powered drills, especially the cheap ones, are not powerful enough for serious drilling such as a 5/8-inch hole through a 4x4 or any hole through metal.


How to hang a canvas art using these nails?

Stick to the screws, and buy something appropriate to your wall-type at the hardware store to hang from.
The serrated bits are a form of picture hanger that normally mounts on the wooden frame (top center, usually just one, the serrations allow you to move it on a nail or screw until it hangs straight. If you use more than one, you have to get the things in the wall exactly right for the art to hang straight, as then there's no adjusting that way.)


How to repair toilet flange that is glued and recessed

Your original flange looks like it's in perfectly good condition, so I wouldn't try to remove & replace it.
Instead, I would use a Flange Spacer like this:

or one of these:


Can narrower inside of gate valve reduce pressure by losses?

The bronze valve will offer a lower pressure drop to the flow of water as the path has fewer changes of direction or changes in diameter.
The diagram for the plastic valve shows a 90 degree change in direction, then the flow is constricted through an orifice, then a further 90 degree change of direction.
Using the plastic valve when the flow rate and therefore velocity is low won’t be too serious like a low flow drip feed watering system but if the flow rate needs to be higher, shower or filling a bath then the losses may well cause an issue.


Can I replace my bath fan with one of similar size?

If you're looking to replace your fan here's what you need to consider

Sound - Measured in sones, a lot of older square fans are fairly loud. Those are 4-5 sones. A lot of newer fans are a lot quieter. I was able to install a 1 sone and it's so quiet you can't hear it outside the bathroom. The boxes typically display this prominently
CFMs - Cubic Feet per Minute. This measures how much air the fan can move. The small, noisy fan probably moved 50 CFMs, if that. My new fan is larger, but moves 90 CFM. With the new fan, I can take a full-on hot shower and have the small bathroom (maybe 50 square feet) de-humidified in about 5 minutes.
Ducting - If you can go into your attic, you should. Try to figure out where fan sits. Sadly, it's very possible that the fan does NOT duct outside. This was what I found in my bathroom (the insulation was filthy from years of dust dumping). This is a problem if it doesn't (can cause mold to grow), and there's a good chance that, if they did duct it, it's not insulated. Especially if you live further north, you want this line insulated (warm, moist air into a cold zone will cause condensation). Most ducts and vents are 4", but if you go above 100 CFM, the duct size tends to go up to 6" line. You can buy insulated flex ducting (check the ducting area of your hardware store, as fans are sometimes sold near light fixtures).
Venting - Sadly, the only roof vent I could find was in a kit that came with uninsulated flex line. It's a compact 4" duct, and can be cut with either a large hole saw, reciprocating saw, or jigsaw. Be sure to buy some appropriate roofing or outdoor caulk. DO NOT USE BASIC SILICONE ON YOUR ROOF. If you're scared of cutting a roof hole, you can also buy a soffit vent, but be aware that the warm, moist air will go out the vent and some might come back up through the vents of the soffit back into your attic, where it can cause mold. If possible, vent out of the roof.
Wiring - Honestly, if you've already got a fan wired in, you can keep the same wires. Just be aware that it's important to ground these fans. Your previous fan may not have one (or they may not have attached it). Don't skip that step. Make sure it's grounded. Also, consider putting in a timer switch. That way your family and guests can set the fan to run after they're done with the bathroom

Nutone actually makes some fans that are designed for easier DIY replacement. Some of their models can be replaced entirely from the bottom, instead of trying to get to it from the attic. This may involve some drywall cutting to accommodate a larger form factor, but they keep the height of the smaller, traditional 6" x 6" (typically 3"). You keep the same wiring and venting.


Ikea 5x5 Kallax disassembly (cross dowels)

Disassembly should be done in reverse order.
Do note though that IKEA furniture doesn't usually like being disassembled and reassembled. (I've had mixed success in the past.)

I'd advise the following steps:

Using permanent marker in the back to mark out where every part was, different colours vertically and numbered horizontally.
Remove the thicker top and bottom planks that secure everything together.
Remove the thicker side planks.
Remove thinner planks layer by layer.
It should be fairly easy to just pull the smaller planks and leave the dowels in place for later reassembly.
Once the small planks have been removed the wider plank should slide right off.
Reassemble in reverse order using the marker notes to determine where the various parts came from.

I'm currently unable to offer a visual aid but if what I've described above is unclear, let me know and I'll create a visual aid when I'm home.

I just found a YouTube video which uses more or less the above disassembly method.


How do I remove a ceiling speaker cover?

I don't know the speaker brand, but I'm 99.9% sure it's going to be magnetically held. Now that you know that you'll go peel it right off. Be careful you don't bend it, they can be very thin.

How do know the speaker has adjustments?

Continued:

Hum! I was involved in a commercial auditorium theater system installation and the ceiling and cabinet mounted speakers all had flat ribbon magnets on the entire front perimeter of the enclosures. And the very thin, light weight grills snapped to it as tight as could be. I see for the Polks that @Steven have, only the perforated inner grill is friction held for its entire perimeter to the permanently installed outer frame providing a similar firm and continuous attachment. But I would think you'd recall that from when you had the one off. I would also think that some sort of a clip or spring loaded mechanism would be the least desirable method possibly allowing the grill to vibrate and make sounds of its own, but maybe that's it. Try pushing on the grill on each edge and see if there's any movement. I guess the other possibility is that the painter just finished painting the ceiling and put the grills right back up on the wet paint.


I regularly use Ditra. You can reuse it if you can get the corners down flat and co-planar.

Its not necessary to remove the old thinset, if it's well adhered.  A new coat of thinset will bond to the old.   A coat of concrete admix or bonding liquid (latex) the day before, will ensure old and new will adhere.

Schluter doesn't recommend using latex modified thinsets over Ditra and under porcelain tile.  This is due to Ditra being impervious, porcelain being impervious and latex modified needing to 'dry'. Straight Portland cement thinset will chemically cure faster. If you have small format tiles (4x4 or smaller), you can use modified.

Ditra, in addition to being a water/vapor barrier, is an excellent crack isolation membrane.  If you are using natural stone tiles or large format tiles (> 12x12), you should consider filling the whole power room area with Ditra.


The lettering on the drain cover leads to a number of similar (but not exactly the same) products all over the 'net. What is consistent about this particular company's line of products is that the words "snap-in" appear frequently.

The image above differs from yours in that your "tab" area is much thinner and does not show clearly any tabs. If you are able to shine light into the area of the slots and are able to see tabs, one can expect that it too is a snap-in cover.

Even a rather comprehensive installation document for plumbing a Florestone shower pan includes nothing about the drain cover. This is consistent with one being able to see the removed cover and recognizing that it is a snap-in type. In place, it's not so easy to determine that aspect.

Image courtesy of Decour Glamour web page.


I'd really stop testing this by shocking yourself.  (!)
If it happens repeatedly it's usually not static.
If it happens more when you're on water, probably not static.

You can use a non contact voltage tester (NCVT) to see if the stove frame is energized:

Just don't trust it too much, and test it on an outlet every time you use it to make sure it's working.

I'd use the NCVT to verify that the frame of the stove is energized, unplug the stove (carefully!) and test again.

If it's hot plugged in but OK unplugged, I'd call whoever installed or services the stove, otherwise call an electrician.


How do I paint over a textured ceiling without removing the texture?

Priming then painting: The texture is water based, so you need to prime first with oil or shellac based primer.  This will seal the texture and "waterproof" it.
Use plenty of ventilation and possibly an organic respirator.
Once primed, any paint can be used (make sure the full drying interval is used).
Removing: will work before any painting.  Put down waterproof tarp, wall-to-wall and taped 6" up.  Use a misting  hand sprayer or a garden sprayer.  Let soak 15 min, respraying  if dry spots develop.  Scrape with a long handled pole and a stiff angled putty knife.  Keep the knife flat and start slowly until you get a rhythm.  No sense in making another repair for gouges.  Clean any residue with a new sponge mop and some TSP or a light detergent.


What is the Pressure Number (PN) of Shedule 40 and Schedule 80 PVC Pipe?

Schedule 40 PVC has a pressure rating of 120 psi to 810 psi, depending on pipe size, and temperature.

At 73°F the pressures are as follows:

2" = 280 psi
3" = 260 psi
4" = 220 psi
6" = 180 psi

Then as the temperature increases, you'll derate the values as such:

80°F - 88%
90°F - 75%
100°F - 62%
110°F - 51%
120°F - 40%
130°F - 31%
140°F - 22%

-Source

Schedule 80 PVC has a pressure rating of 210 psi to 1230 psi, depending on pipe size, and temperature.

At 73°F the pressures are as follows:

2" = 400 psi
3" = 370 psi
4" = 320 psi
6" = 280 psi

Then as the temperature increases, you'll derate the values as listed above.

-Source

Pressure depends on temperature, size, and schedule.


How can I restore the springs in my storm door hinges?

Door closing hinges I've used in the past have had a tightening mechanism. At one end there is a grub screw and a series of holes in a ring where the spring is joined to the base plate.

You loosen the grub screw and use an Allen key to increase the tension on the spring.

This should mean that the door closes (at least for a couple more years).

Be careful not to tighten it too much or you might have problems pushing the door open against the spring or it will snap back very quickly indeed.


What type of space heater should I use in a child's room?

I'd go with a permanently installed baseboard heater with independent temperature controls (i.e. not connected to the main thermostat.)  These are attached to the walls so that it can't be tipped over.

You can get safety covers for them which will keep little fingers out, and also make it more attractive.

You will need to get an electrician in to do the wiring, so you might wish to install a wall mounted thermostat at the same time.


That is an automatic bleeder valve - they are subject to becoming less automatic to non-functional over time, and yours are well into the "heavily corroded old age" stage of their lives, or at least the one in the picture is.
If you don't get air when you actuate the valve, this location is bled.
When working properly, any air is collected in the chamber, and once enough air has collected a float drops and causes the air to be vented. The valve cap is normally left somewhat loose so that air can vent, until they start leaking and you have to disable the automatic part of their function by cranking the valve cap down until it seals (normally has a rubber seal inside the cap for that purpose.)
They still work as an air collection point that way, but you have to unscrew the cap and let the air out, then reseal it so they don't leak water at that point.
Here is a cutaway view (from caleffi.com, never heard of them, no affiliation) showing their version of the mechanism.


What is this electrical device in my basement?

That device is a telephone line fuse and surge protector device. The fuses are in line with each of the two telephone line legs. Inside there will be a spark gap to shunt possible lightning on the line to the third center GND wire on the one side.

These were common in the vintage days when most telephone service was delivered via open wires overhead on poles. These days they are mostly redundant now that most telephone service is delivered underground or may enter the premises through a telephone interface box. These boxes have the surge protections built right into the interface box.

These days when some folks that still use wired telephone service and also use that service to receive internet service via ADSL or DSL it would be necessary to evaluate the installation to see how the line surge protection is provided. If it is handled by one of these vintage style surge protectors it may be necessary replace devices like these with the more modern style interface box and surge protection to allow the ADSL/DSL signals to pass without attenuation.


Drywall is mostly composed of compressed gypsum and a paper for structural integrity.  For all intents and purposes air will not flow through it if installed correctly, however the importance of being air tight is to control moisture and condensation from forming inside of your walls.  This is where the vapor barrier comes into play.

A vapor barrier to be most effective should be airtight from the outside.  This can be done using appropriate tape and materials that you can get from your local hardware store.  User decker has a great explanation on this here.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/25277/6086

Being in a cold climate your inside of the house will be a lot warmer than the outside for most of the year, so condensation will form on the insulation facing the outside. This moisture can result in mold.

If you are certain that there is not correctly installed vapor barrier behind your insulation, then one option is to tear down the drywall to where you can do this.

A better option might be to look at possibly rewrapping the outside of the house in a new wrap and seaming it to help create the air tight situation that you want.  You mentioned that the outside looks in rough shape so perhaps tearing off the siding was in the plans anyway?

ADDITIONAL NOTE

You may see that there exists a special moisture resistant drywall product typically called "green board".  This will not help you with moisture inside the wall because the moisture resistant properties of the drywall have to do with the green paper on the front face of the drywall.  The board itself is still composed of gypsum and doesn't have any special moisture resistance by itself without the front paper.  It is intended for installation in bathrooms where it will withstand high moisture environments inside the home.


As Ed said in his comment, you need to reconnect your exhaust to the roof vent. Perhaps your question should've addressed that issue. It's not clear why you made that move.

I also agree that the insulation will probably dry out well with a little air movement. I'd place a fan blowing across the surface of the damp area, and be sure that you have good outflow. Apply a fan to a roof vent for a few days if necessary.

The drywall isn't an issue either, unless you have visible signs of water damage or mold. Even mold on the attic side wouldn't motivate me to tear it out.


all my 240 circuits aren't working anymore in sub panel but the sub panel is getting 240 volts

If you have 240 at the main lugs of the sub and do not have 240v at the breakers the main breaker could be bad. I have had a main breaker fail on 1 hammer (the contacts inside the breaker) on more than 1 occasion. In some cases with all the load breakers turned off cycle the main 10 times on and off This can temporarily clean the contact and make it useful until the bkr or panel can be replaced.
If this is a lug only (no main on the sub)
 your buss on one of the legs may have fried since you said all the 240v breakers ,,, I have had this happen with FPE stab lock but it can happen with all brands of panels but I have only had buss failures on FPE and any problems with FPE stab lock needs replacement of the panel in my opinion, I won't do any work on them except to replace them.


How should I configure the chains for a large porch swing?

The chain configuration does not just affect the amount of support. It also controls the angle of the seat of the swing as it moves through its arc.

If you use a single hook on each end, the seat is always perpendicular to a line that extends from the center of the seat to the hook.

If you use two hooks on each end, the seat will track differently, depending on the length of the chain and the relative positioning of the hooks. One example is a parallel configuration.

Some configurations simply will not work well (e.g. if the space between the hooks is much wider than the space between the attachment points on the swing). Also, chains of different length will cause the seat angle to change (tip forward or backward).

As several comments point out, it is essential that whatever attachment system you use, the chains and the ceiling supports must be strong enough to hold the swing, the people and then the load must be multiplied by at least two or more to account for ther moving load.


Are there any electro-osmosis damp proofing systems that work?

There are two sides to an answer for your question you must consider.
First, it is important that you properly identify the type of damp. Rising damp should not be mistaken by penetrating damp or condensation damp. For clear description, please have a look here: https://www.wisepropertycare.com/services/rising-damp/what-is-rising-damp/signs/

Secondly, electro-osmosis works, as far as the physical processes behind it. It is therefore industry-accepted. I can send you a study made for one such product. Electro-osmosis is used in various dehydration processes, such as sludge dehydration by a Japanese company Kurita, proving its efficiency.

It seems that negative reviews about this technology have two sources: one is wrong diagnosis of rising damp prior to instalation of electro-osmosis devices, and another is poor quality of the device or poor quality of its installation. Most electro-osmosis kits contain titanium anodes which must be drilled into the wall, which is handled unprofessionaly, weakens the end result. There are also completely non-intrusive devices on the market which are plugged into the socket and provide the same effect, i.e. repel water molecules from the walls and force them back into the soil. This French company provides such devices: http://build-innovation.com/en/

Hope this answer clarifies your doubt about electro-osmosis for rising damp.


What could cause my old gas furnace to keep cutting out?

I would check your ignition sensor or your flame sensor. There are also heat switches that "melt" and shut off to stop the furnace from catching fire. I had a similar problem when I bought my house that was a foreclosure. The furnace sat for a while and the sensor got covered in dust and burnt out when I turned the heat on. The best way to figure out what's up is to remove the cover and look for some blinking lights. It will depend on the furnace type. These lights will give you a code that will help you figure out what the real problem is. So
Google your furnace model and how to find the code
then
Google your furnace model and the code to get an idea of the problem


You have several options here, and you're going to be stuck with some limitations as to which method you use. You can use a reciprocating saw, but as it was pointed out by @JACK, there'e the danger of being unable to control the saw and cuttin all the way through to the other side.
You can use a hammer and chisel, but here you'll be shaking the entire wall and potentially cause some superficial damage that can cause some severe headaches if you have to match texture and/or paint. The reciprocating saw can also run this risk.
@Chris Butler also suggested a circular saw, which can work, but you're teetering on a very narrow edge and will cause a fair amount of mess.
My preference is to use a multitool if you have one available. If you don't have one, they're pretty inexpensive and very handy. This would allow you to do a plunge cut and you can use the fat edge of a speed square to help ensure you're keep to your 1/8" or 1/4" depth (1/8" if trimming both studs or 1/4" if only trimming 1 stud. These are also great in tight places.
You can try a combination of a laminate router, sharp utility knife, or chisel, but I wouldn't recommend that. I only mention it to try and cover all bases I can think of.
In case you have seen or heard of the multitool, here's a picture of one.


How/where to put hydrogen peroxide in water heater

To add anything to the water heater you will need to turn the water off and drain the pressure in the lines. After this there are 2 choices; Pull the anode probably the best idea because it may have dissolved. The 2nd choice would be to pull the supply line and add there. I have never had this problem that flushing and replacing the anode did not fix. After this purging the air out and checking for leaks when the water is turned on. Just a note if a tap in the house is turned on with both hot and cold water while the system is open water may come out as the cold pressure flows back through the hot line. Had this happen when I left a system open while going to the store to get a new anode, what a mess.


For getting paint off a door, I highly recommend using Citrus Strip.
We tried it on our old wooden door and it  worked great, taking off multiple layers of paint.  It doesn't work as well under a lot of sun and heat, so I would recommend either taking the door off the hinges or erecting some sort of tarp to block the sun from hitting it directly.  Then get a paint scraper,and it will come off pretty well.

For painting the door, they make small rollers (cabinet rollers) that we also used on our door, and it worked out very well. They are only about 4" wide.  I believe we used a latex paint, but I will check the can when I get home.


Potential issues with adding a 90° bend to shower waste?

Connecting an elbow directly to the shower strainer is not a problem, 2" hopefully.  Use as long of radius bend as you can. Keep a good slop in the drain line. Shower drains only handle water and not very much at a time. They rarely clog.


How to make plastic shine after removing the stickers on it using cooking oil?

You can get all these crappy aerosols that say shine this, shine that..

Finding the right one is very difficult. I used to buy this creamy liquid from a chemical supplier.. It was amazing! It restored the plastic to its natural, factory looking shine. This was in South Africa and years ago..

So i found this.. (it is not my shop.. its just the only guy who has this stuff)

I found this after testing and trying ... 12 other sprays, miracle shines and what not. This is not exactly what i used in SA.. but it works well

You generously spray the area with the shine(usually you will do the whole item or the whole side for even looking shine).. leave it for 5-15 minutes.
using a kitchen towel (not toilet tissue) you will polish the area vigorously while removing excess
Leave it for some more time.. up to hours. Use a microfibre cloth to finish off the polish.
I have made many old, junk from the bin look like new again.. and nobody new the difference.
Use some elbow grease..

The key is to find a silicone based solution. Good Luck


There is a big open pipe to the attic in my AC closet?

It is possibly for makeup air. The units need air to burn effectively, since they are in a closet, there will not be enough air getting to them for effective combustion.


What's the part of a lampshade that the finial screws into called?

I just was looking for one a few weeks ago.  I saw them under a few names "harp fitter", "spider fitter", or "lamp adjuster".  I just got a new harp it was easier.


Toilet hisses after flush, is it normal?

Once the tank gets close to full the hiss is the water being restricted until the valve closes and is normal.


200 yards is a long way when it comes to drilled wells. I'm probably that far downhill of one that is filled to the top, and mine has a static level 100 feet down. Your neighbors may also use water differently than you do.

You appear to be overpumping your well (taking water out faster than it flows in) - You evidently have one piece of data (305 foot depth) but lack many others: depth of pump setting, information about the pump, flow-rate measured at time of drilling the well, static water level, diameter of well - some of those you may be able to gather, or find from the company that drilled the well in the first place.

On your own, you can shut off everything that uses water, wait a while (preferably several hours or more) to let the well fill to the maximum static level, and then fill buckets as fast as possible to try and determine what your effective storage capacity above the pump is. When the well stops, wait an hour and repeat, and THAT will tell you the effective refill rate:

If you pull 200 gallons the first time and 50 gallons the second, you are getting 50 gallons per hour (more or less - since time passes as you fill the buckets)  - which is less than one gallon per minute. That can be plenty of water if you don't overdo it (watering the garden can take a LOT of water, depending how you do that - changing to drip irrigation might cut down the rate of use a lot, .vs. sprinklers, say) and have reasonable storage capacity ( in this hypothetical example, the first 200 gallons, or 4 hours with of inflow) to allow for washing, bathtubs, and refilling toilets, etc.

If you require more flow than your well provides and any water conserving measures you are willing to take are not enough, you can have the well worked on by a well-drilling (or well-servicing - often the same, but not always) company in various ways - hydrofracking being perhaps the most trendy (pumping in high-pressure water to open up cracks in the rock to allow water to flow in faster) - unfortunately, it's usually fairly expensive and results are generally not guaranteed.


Can ceiling light mount box be used to attach ceiling fan?

Maybe.

If the box has a bracket that securely attaches it to a framing member, then the box can support a ceiling fan up to 35 lbs.  If the box is not securely attached to a framing member, it cannot support a ceiling fan. According to NEC, ceiling boxes are supposed to be installed so that they can support a 50 lbs fixture (that's a light fixture, not a ceiling fan). However, this is not always the case, especially where the boxes are installed by those unaware of the code requirements, or before it was a requirement.

If the box is designed for supporting a ceiling fan, it will be marked with the amount of weight it can support, up to 70 lbs.  A ceiling fan weighing more than 70 lbs., has to be supported by other means.


Put drywall up and use spacers to get the surfaces level.

Then fill the gaps with filler and use the edging tape or webbing which helps prevents cracks as things move.

But looking at that construction I guess movement will happen...


How to find stud when magnets indicate there's one present, but can't find it with a drill

Pass a bent piece of stiff wire into one of the holes and use it to feel around inside the wall nearby.


Intersystem bonding terminal - how direct?

Not sure why 2-0 is used for residential with rod pipe and plate electrodes--#6 is all that is needed per code per 250.66.A. The IBT attached to the service equipment or disconnect is according to code not a hack but self forming screws are needed, not self tapping, or #6 to the grounding electrode conductor. 250.94.4  the length my jurisdiction uses is 20’ (see 800.100.4) except on motor homes it is allowed to be 30’. If this distance is not compliant this is when they require a 5’ ground rod (see 800.100.b.3.2). Hope that helps


No, don't screw with the appliance, you'll kill your warranty when they send out a repairman...very likely with appliances today.
Your best approach would be to put an elbow on the gas line and send the line along the wall rather than straight out of it. If there isn't currently a shut-off valve behind the oven, then install one...unless the shut-off elsewhere is VERY easily accessible and ALWAYS clear.


GFCI Circuit Breaker 'Test' works, but doesn't trip with plug tester

It sounds like the GFCI is not grounded. This is the proper method to change from a 2 wire / prong system to a 3 prong and be code compliant. Being close to the service panel you can now legally add a ground wire and the tester will trip the GFCI this recently became legal according to the national electric code. You are not required to add the ground but if close why not. The GFCI will still do its job without a ground. I know you said everything was connected but it sounds like an open ground to me.

In an actual life-safety situation that the GFCI protects, the extra current would be flowing through a person to ground (including just about any path from the person to the rest of the world). But with a tester, the extra current is going directly to the ground pin. If that pin is not connected to anything at all then the current doesn't actually flow (not a complete circuit) - and the GFCI doesn't trip.


Can you use Isolation Transformer on Refrigerators? Any side effects?

Ground the fridge!

Grounding the fridge will not defeat the purpose of the isolation transformer, but rather complement it.

You may be operating on a misconception that GFCI devices care about ground.  They do not.  They are not connected to ground in any way and have no idea what is going on with ground.   Actually, what grounds do to GFCIs is make ground-fault current more likely to flow, which trips them obviously.  The isolation transformer will prevent that.

The reason to ground the fridge is to assure the fridge chassis and the sink, light switch cover screws and other grounded things remain at the same voltage.  It will also assure a GFCI trip if the isolation transformer itself leaks, something you want for safety.

An isolation transformer is a good solution, though

In this configuration, the GFCI will only "see" the isolation transformer primary.  Currents will be equal in the transformer, where else can it go?

I never believed any of that "Harmonics in the AC motors ingest some of the electrons, causing false trips" nonsense, but if that were so, the electron losses would be on the isolation transformer's secondary, and the GFCI would not see them.

Fridges shouldn't be on GFCI in the first place

We have never found anything in Code that requires refrigerators be on GFCI, except for ones in garages or basements only befause garages and basements need GFCI, not the fridge.  Even there, authorities tend to be warm to the idea of dedicated non-GFCI circuits for fridges.

Look at the reasons for GFCI, they simply do not apply to a grounded refrigerator.  However, fridges are life-safety devices; if their GFCI trips and someone resets it, they may not realize the fridge was off and the food has spoilt.  Then the aide comes in to feed grandmother, and aides have an ethic about not eating your food, so they never check.

Old refrigerators should go anyway

Because new fridges are much more efficient.  It may seem like a cost savings to run an old fridge, but that is only a lack of information on your part.  You are not seeing the cost of the electricity for the fridge.  If you put a Kill-a-Watt or similar meter, you would get a baseline.  If you then bought a brand new fridge and did the same test, you would find the new fridge is saving you $10/month or more.  Since this test is not practical for you, well, you never find out!

The upshot is a new, efficient fridge will pay for itself in a few years with the power savings, and then the savings are pure profit.

Some electricity companies are either subsidizing or simply giving away new fridges to customers with obsolete fridges. Replacing 300MW of fridges with 100MW of fridges is cheaper than building a 200MW power plant. The cost is covered by ratepayers on a per-kilowatt-hour basis, especially the ones who are still running their inefficient fridge.


Condensation occurs when moist air contacts a cooler surface.   Adding a storm door will make the inside surface of your front door less cool, and may help reduce the condensation.   You may also have excessive humidity from (for example) showering without using an exhaust fan, cooking, etc.

I would suggest getting a device that measures relative humdity (Here's one example of many that appeared when I searched "indoor humidity" on Amazon; to see if excess humidity may be part of the problem (note that recommended levels vary with the outdoor temperature).


Code requires fire retardant foam in new construction nowadays. If you have an older home where that was not required, you could leave it or fill it with standard caulk, if you feel you must do something.


How do I keep this polyurethaned oak floor in good condition?

The thing that deteriorates polyurethane most quickly is allowing abrasives (like sand) to accumulate the floor.  These should be swept up immediately; or just set your roomba to do it for you.

A swiffer, or hard wood floor cleaner such as this between 1ce a week - 1ce a month depending on how heavy traffic is should be fine.

Steam mopping is a bit questionable, but probably fine for finishes that are in good condition.

Sand and refinish the floors every 5 years.

Other things I've seen deteroiate floors is

soakings
heavy moppings
the use of bleach
the use of boiling water (not to be confused with steam mopping)


How should I avoid corrosion at this water heater connection?

With brass connected to galvanised pipe you can get some galvanic corrosion.  There is something called a dielectic union which I've never needed to use.  That may help.  You'll need to clean up the rust. That may require cutting out the rusted part or at least scraping it off.

Here's a picture that describes the dielectric union joint.


Can neutral be used instead of ground for a tankless water heater?

There's a weird little ... glitch ... in Code that I don't know what to make of.  Except such exceptions rarely make it in by mistake, and certainly don't survive two editions by mistake.

The glitch says this:  Neutral wires must be naturally white* their entire length, even in concealed parts of a cable.  And if ground wires are green** insulated, then ditto.  However, ground wires that are bare only need to be bare where visible.

Code seems to be tipping the hat to annihilating wire insulation at all places it is visible, and calling a wire (of any color) a ground.

This action is irrevocable; once this is done, it can never again be used for the "formerly grandfathered" role of a 120/240V split phase range.

A more versatile method would be to retrofit ground from that location to anywhere with a #10 or larger homerun, including the Grounding Electrode System or any metal conduit.

* or gray or colored with 3 white stripes

** or yellow with green stripe


Why are tandem breakers on shared neutral (MWBC) problematic?

A shared-neutral (two hots sharing the same neutral) is also called a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC).
Now to go any further, first, North American power uses a slick trick.  It supplies 120V in two poles, which can be stacked to be 240V.   Read this answer for a primer on how that works.
Then, read my answer on how poles work at the panel, and what makes tandem/duplex breakers special and different from normal ones.
Neutrals don't have breakers
The current on neutral depends on good circuit design upstream of it.  Here's what I mean.
You'll agree that this is a simple arrangement, where the circuit breaker on the hot serves to protect the neutral from overload.

Okay, that makes sense.
The neutral can't carry more than the hot, because the neutral only serves the one hot.  As long as there isn't cross-hot leakage, there's no chance of overloading that neutral.
So what happens in a shared-neutral situation?

Can you spot the problem?
The neutral isn't any bigger than the hots, yet it's being asked to carry twice the load.  There is no breaker on the neutral to protect it.  So this sharing is setting the neutral on fire.
So how can this even work, then?
So you remember at the beginning and the discussion of poles and panels.
Take any two circuits.  (They can either be on the same pole, or on different poles).  We just discussed what happens if they're on the same pole.  Look what happens if they're on opposite poles.

Now that makes sense.
When the red hot draws 13A, it's drawing all of it from the black hot.  Most current goes through 1 lamp then the other, and back to the other hot.  Only 2A actually travels down the neutral back to the panel.  Neutral only carries the difference in currents.
You can try plugging in any value of amps on either leg (between 0 and 15).  In every case, the amp flow on the neutral is always less than 15.  So this configuration is safe for the neutral.
So there is method to the madness of shared-netural, and this is the method.  But it only works if the 2 circuits are on opposite poles, and in fact, there are rules that absolutely require this. Notice the way I drew the 2-pole breaker with one big fat handle.

The breaker must be 2-pole (240V).  Now using a duplex is a common and understandable mistake.
The breaker handles must shut off together with a "handle tie" that is factory authorized and approved.  One quickly discovers tandems don't have handle-ties which makes that mistake a lot less understandable.  That alone disqualifies them for MWBCs.

Fixing this
Panels can be a tangle. The simplest way to check for the problem is measure between the two sharing "hot" wires.  If you measure 240V you're OK.  If you measure 0V, you are overloading the neutral.
You can meet the law with handle-ties, but handle-ties are expensive and hard to find... don't let that turn it into "putting it off til never".  2-pole breakers will also fill the bill, and those are readily available everywhere, and they assure you get 240V between them. So that is what we recommend.
Now, people normally use duplex/tandem only when their panel is full.  If you have that problem, then you need to look at quadplex breakers.   These are 2-pole breakers that either have

a) a 2-pole in the middle and two singles on the outside, or
b) a 2-pole breaker on the inside and another 2-pole breaker on the outside.

If you have 2 single circuits nearby (which aren't shared-neutral MWBC), you can use type a).  If you need to fit 2 full MWBCs into 2 spaces, use type b).  These don't exist in every type of panel.
If you cannot fit full 2-pole, and cannot find appropriate quadplex, then splice both hots to each other with a pigtail, and attach the pigtail to a plain breaker.  This will limit both half-circuits to 15A among them, but will assure the neutral isn't overloaded.  This would be a way to do it without buying any breakers:

This would also work with a GFCI or AFCI breaker instead of a duplex.
How about adding GFCI?
Shared-neutral/MWBCs have fallen out of favor because they're a pain to deal with AFCI and GFCI.
AFCI is meant to protect the branch circuit wires, so putting AFCI anywhere but the panel will provide poor protection. There are some topology tricks you can do with receptacles for GFCI.  But really, the best way to fit GFCI or AFCI to any shared-neutral MWBC is to use a 2-pole GFCI or AFCI breaker right at the panel.
However, here's the gotcha in a tight panel.  There's no such thing as a duplex ACFI or GFCI.  They take a lot of space.  A GFCI/AFCI suitable for a shared-neutral MWBC will absolutely require two full spaces.
But you can always use the "pigtail both hots onto one breaker" method with a plain single-pole GFCI, but obviously that will limit your usable current.


Roof Safety: how to clean gutters on high steep roof?

Do not tie off to a chimney. Ever. I've demolished chimneys by pushing on them. (And, parenthetically, the physics of what I think your proposing is exceptionally poor.)

Don't leave nylon baking in the sun under any circumstances.

I'm not a fan of permanent anchors either, though they can be done properly (i.e., safe and waterproof). The downside to them is that you have to get there unprotected to clip in.

I'd consider putting a rope over the entire roof. (Thin cord, tennis ball, tennis racket; tie thick cord to thin cord and pull; tie thick cord to something substantial on both sides of the house. If you choose to tie off to a vehicle, tie a bight around the steering wheel as a reminder.)

Among the benefits of the 'cord over the roof' approach is that you'll have protection as you climb the ladder. Just be sure you know when and how to switch the direction of the rope grab. (Hint: alpine butterfly knot at the ridge and a second tether for when you make the switch.)

Get training on how to self rescue if you slip off the edge and are left dangling. Or at least have a phone tethered to you.

I'm a big fan of protected ropework, but you need to understand the entire system.


How do I fix slow water flow in my refrigerator door dispenser?

If the ice maker if refilling quickly after making a batch of ice, then the problem will likely be in the valve in the door dispenser or some kind of blockage in the line leading there.

The first easy fix that comes to mind is an ice buildup, since I've seen that wreck havoc on in door dispensers. You can try turning off the fridge and taking a hair dryer to the dispenser from each side to defrost any buildup, and then do your best to dry out anything that drips.

Beyond that, this will probably require taking the dispenser apart, possibly replacing the valve, or it may be as easy as cleaning the spout.


Help with strange wiring in light switch box

Here is my guess what is going on:
Old Wiring
Not super old like my house. (OK, that's not "super old", just the 1950s. Super old is knob & tube). Just old enough to not have required a neutral in the switch box. Neutrals in the switch box are trivial if the wiring is panel->switch->fixture. But they require an extra wire - and builders don't like to spend on an extra wire if they don't have to - if you are using switch loops.
Two Switches
Why two cables? Because there were two switches in the box at one time. One of them was removed and just wired "on" by connecting black (switched hot) & white (hot). That was probably not the right thing to do (I don't know if it is code compliant or not), but it was the easy thing to do as it makes the switched item "always on". The alternative is to disconnect the switch loop and change the wires around at the fixture so that it is always on.
Switch Loops
A switch loop is a set of wires - commonly 2, but 3 if you include neutral - that extends from a fixture to a switch. The full wiring is:

Neutral (white) from panel -> fixture neutral
Hot (typically black) from panel -> hot wire to switch (white in your case)
Switched hot (typically black) from switch -> fixture hot

With typical 2-wire cables, the only colors are black & white. So you end up with black & white connected together in a couple of places, including at/through the switch.
Normally, white means neutral. But since you don't have a neutral in a normal switch loop, you get to use white as hot. It should be marked but often isn't because it is "obvious". But with the new neutral requirement, which was created for things like your new smart switch, you need a 3-wire cable, so white becomes neutral again (capped if not used), black becomes hot and red becomes switched hot.
Since you have the box open, you should go ahead and mark the white wire going to the switch with black tape. That will make it clear to someone else in the future that it is actually a hot wire.
Sorry, Neutral Not Available
You have two choices:

Find a smart switch that doesn't require neutral
Replace the existing 2-wire cable with a 3-wire cable


Yes, drylok can be recoated easily. Depending how bad (or not-bad) the spots are, you might think about whether the super-thick "masonry waterproofer" or the "concrete floor paint" is more appropriate. If staining appears to indicate leaks, probably the thick stuff.

Ease of re-coat is one of several reasons the concrete floor paint is on my shop floor rather than some fancy epoxy product. 5-6X cost differential and not being slippery (without having to add some surface treatment) are two of the others that spring to mind. And, of course, not being gray concrete...


Are transitions strips necessary from room to room if installing luxury vinyl planks throughout house?

Transitions strips are generally to provide a transition from one flooring surface to another; oftentimes because of a height difference. Sometimes they provide a threshold from one room to another where the flooring is the same but a limit barrier is desired, like from the living room to the kitchen/dining room.

Transitions give visual cues and can change the design dynamics visually to a space—make it look bigger or more cozy, etc.

If you’re using a single kind of flooring throughout and there are no height differences or underlayment/stability issues, you don’t have to install transitions.

You do need to install base of some kind where the flooring meets the walls. Doorways, around corners and curved spaces require base and sometimes transitions, depending on the flooring and installation layout.

Be sure to do a “dry” layout and determine where you need to make cuts, keeping in mind, the cuts should be made at the least visible part of the floor. For example, in a small bathroom, you generally want to use a full tile coming out from the wall or tub and make cuts at the threshold of the door.


I believe this is the Pyrrharctia Isabella, or woollybear. Thuricide1 is labelled as a catepillar control pesticide.

1 Home Depot link, no endorsement as I have never used this myself


Nope! You need a new dedicated circuit & dedicated outlet for that, essentially you must treat it as another Range or Dishwasher type of Appliance.