If you can locate your floor joists, you can use a longer, ~2-2.5" finish nail and nail both finish floor and subfloor to the joist. Once the subfloor is tightened down, you can spot nail the finish floor to the subfloor as needed. I did that in my 1928 house and it worked.


Combi boiler lighting hourly to warm heat exchanger - is this normal?

On page 5 of the boiler manual you linked to, it states:

  PRE-HEAT DHW pre-heat will be disabled during DHW off periods.

So, you need to define some DHW "off" periods (most of the time, evidently) and a few DHW "on" periods when you expect to use it.

Programming those is described on Page 8.

The default is to run DHW "on" from 06:30 to 00:00 (page 11)

Edit: I have observed that most generalizations don't hold worldwide, so I did not start out with this one - but certainly the vast majority of North American "heating and domestic hot water" (what you presumably mean by "combi" - not a term we use) boilers simply run to keep themselves hot all the time - there may be a summer/winter switch which changes some setpoints, but the  basic operation is to sit there being warm/hot as a default. So yes, I'd consider that "normal" operation for such a boiler, if it hasn't got the time controls as described. And @RedGrittyBrick's suggestion is a good one, if a newer control panel is compatible with an older boiler. The other change from older boilers we commonly see here is a LOT more insulation - according to the manual linked, your hourly burn is somewhat more frequent that expected, at least on the newer model - unless your boiler is located in a particularly cold place, that may well mean the newer models are better insulated (and/or, if you have not already done so, you may want to add insulation to the water pipes.) You might ask the manufacturer if there is a way you can add more insulation to (at least some parts of) the boiler itself without causing a hazard.

We had a period (not entirely extinguished, but somewhat tempered by observed results now) when "instant" hot water heaters, where only a pilot light, or sometimes not even that, was kept burning until water is called for, were all the rage. "Observed results" include far less savings (.vs. a well-insulated tank-type hot water heater) than claimed, and relatively delicate heat exchangers and control systems which become expensive to maintain after a few years. Some folks still love the things - they still hold a certain attraction for me, but being off the natural gas grid, not much - bottled/tank-trucked gas (propane) is far a more expensive fuel source.


What is a better base for skid foundation, gravel or crushed stone?

Tamped gravel uniform or not, big or small, rounded or jagged with thin concrete pads (home-made or store bought), retaining wall caps or path pavers set into the gravel. Like doing a walking path really. You can even do a peanut brittle type setup by pouring in a lot of real soupy cement. But, the 4-inch carve-out of the ground you'll do should retain the gravel quite well.


How do I replace this bathtub handle that has a plastic piece?

If you're not worried about possibly damaging the plastic bit (after all you are looking to remove it), I would get a pair of vice grips onto the square section at the back of the plastic piece.

This will allow you to either rotate the plug (to un-screw it, if it's threaded or to break the bond if it's glued in), or apply horizontal force to pull it out without damaging it too much.


Swiss chemical giant Sika makes a (caulking gun) tube of tile adhesive that I've used for adhering large, very porous, travertine to painted sheetrock. In addition, I've seen 4ft. x 8ft. architectural limestone panels installed in office building lobbies and exterior facades using a strange gummy white paste that turns rock hard pretty quickly. It's stuck on the back of a panel like a snowball then squished into pancakes when the panel is rotated up into place against cinder block or cement.


What is the equivalent degrees of one "turn"

A turn is 360 degrees.

You are expected to put a mark on the thing you are turning, so you can observe its rotation.

They have no way of knowing which kind of wrench you are using, what your wrenching style is, or what amount of swing angle local clearances will afford you.

"Hand/finger tight" is the point at which all free lash/slop has been removed, further turning actually loads the fastener, and torque becomes measurable.

In a fastener in tension, how much strain a "turn" amounts to depends an awful lot on the length of the fastener subject to tension. Getting from "strain" to "torque" then involves a lot of other stuff.

In the case of the anchor in your link, it has little to do with tension.  It is intentionally deforming the anchor to make it engage the hole you just drilled.


I can't quite be sure from the picture, but the red things are each joined to a wire from one of the two cables, right? If so, they're just splices, like wire nuts but for this kind of wiring.

So, this part doesn't tell us much about the purpose of the wiring. It could be any kind of signaling cable, though having the wires untwisted like that (and having only two connected, even) would not work for high-speed Ethernet.

It could be a telephone line (likely, except the labels seem a bit odd for that), part of a security system, or some kind of home automation. You will need to find the other ends of the cables to learn what they're used for.

If there are cables elsewhere that might be these but you aren't sure, you can get a "tone and probe" kit to send a signal on one of the unused wire pairs of one of the cables and wave the probe around other ends (or even through a wall) to detect where it runs.


When is the "best" time to get a gunite pool installed?

I see you are from VA. If you're in an area that doesn't get frost into the ground, then it would be safe to install a pool at any time during the year. Just guessing here, but I would imagine that pool companies would be begging for business shortly after the pool closing season, late fall, early winter, or before the ground freezes and snow falls. Definitely that way here in the north country.  Again, really just a guess, got no evidence for ya. Maybe one of our contributors from your area may have some better advise.


What type of floor drain is this and can I connect pipes to it?

It is not made for more pipes, it is a floor drain and the only way to hook more pipes t it is to break up the floor and tie into 3" line that drain does eventually tie into.

This picture of the drain cap I was referring t. It is like the older cast iron type. Looking up this type of drain that is around now have openings all over it.

 The way it is supposed to work is, the water is not supposed to go directly into the drain in the center. It fills the "cup" around the perimeter, catching any objects that get washed in by the flow of water. The objects will settle in the bottom of the catch basin and the water will fill up enough to pour over the edge and go down the waste pipe in the center.


Since you are going to place it on a deck, move it around, want to keep water and cats out, I would just buy a plastic one with a lid.  In my opinion its not worth the hassle.  The wood alone will make it heavy and hard to move around, let alone with sand in it.

They are fairly cheap, we bought one a few weeks ago at a garage sale for $5.  I know there is pride in doing it yourself, I wanted to build one too, but in the end, it may not be worth it.


Do cables that are not NM type need to be derated when used as NM?

Neither cable needs to be derated here, for multiple reasons

First off -- you only have one NM cable (the 14/2 W/G) in this hole, as the other cable (the 6-6-6-6) is a type SE cable; the two cables (NM and SE) are distinct in their constructions and usages, and are covered by different articles in the NEC (NM in Article 334, SE in Article 338).  As a result, the requirement in NEC 334.80 paragraph 2 that requires derating of multiple NM cables bundled through an insulation-packed hole in wood framing does not apply here to this situation, as there's only one NM cable to be had:

  Where more than two NM cables containing two or more
  current-carrying conductors are installed, without maintaining
  spacing between the cables, through the same opening in wood
  framing that is to be sealed with thermal insulation, caulk, or
  sealing foam, the allowable ampacity of each conductor shall
  be adjusted in accordance with Table 310.15(B)(3)(a) and the
  provisions of 310.15(A)(2), Exception, shall not apply.

Furthermore, this requirement only applies to sealed openings in wood framing; since your opening is unsealed, this passage would not apply even if you had 20 NM cables in the same opening.  Finally, this passage does not apply to SE cables anyway, as while SE cables are required to be treated as NM cables when used indoors by 338.10(B)(4)(a):

  (a) Interior Installations. In addition to the provisions of
  this article, Type SE service-entrance cable used for interior
  wiring shall comply with the installation requirements of Part II
  of Article 334, excluding 334.80.

  For Type SE cable with ungrounded conductor sizes 10 AWG
  and smaller, where installed in thermal insulation, the ampacity
  shall be in accordance with 60°C (140°F) conductor temperature rating. The maximum conductor temperature rating shall
  be permitted to be used for ampacity adjustment and correction purposes, if the final derated ampacity does not exceed
  that for a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor.

, this passage explicitly excludes 334.80 from its requirements, as the wire insulation (often XHHW-2 or full THHN/THWN-2) on wires in SE cables is more robust than the PVC-only insulation used on the individual wires in a NM cable.


How do I remove this stubborn ceiling light fixture?

The light fixture should have come loose after loosening that nut.

Try the following:

Get a step ladder or ladder and place it directly bellow the light.
Get on the ladder :)
Determine if the fixture is 2 separate pieces or 1 whole piece (glass + gold decorative ring)
Carefully grab the light fixture with both hands and firmly turn the light fixture a few degrees in either direction. Be careful as the glass from the light fixture should come free.

If it does not it could be stuck ceiling due to paint or grime as someone mentioned in the comments.

If this is the case, try being a little more aggressive in your rotation, again being careful as it can slide free.


Making sure this wall is just a partition and not load bearing

Not structural.
The 1/2" gap (with the little coupling bracket) between the truss and the diagonal wall, and the straight wall not even being under the truss are clear indications.


How can I determine whether I have moisture issues behind a brick facade

Seems like there are a couple of things going on here:

First, you say, “next to the window.” Typically, I see a lot of leak problems around windows and particularly at the corner of the sills. This is a “leak” issue and not a lack of moisture barrier issue, as implied by your title question.

Yes, darkened wall sheathing is an indication that moisture has been there, but has dried out. If the sheathing is solid (not punky) and stained on the surface only not throughout, then it would indicate that not much moisture has entered or not very frequently.

Second, you don’t mention a moisture barrier between the wall sheathing and the brick, but if there isn’t one, then You have a bigger problem. Hand-in-hand with the moisture barrier is the need for “weep holes”.  I’d check to see if there are weep holes and if they’re “open”.

Where I live, brick veneer is installed with a 3/4” to 1” air space to the wall sheathing with a moisture barrier on the face of the sheathing. The brick veneer extends down about 4” below the top of the floor line (finish floor) with weep holes at the bottom to allow water that gets behind the brick to drain out.

Third, brick is porous and needs to be sealed with a clear liquid sealer from time to time. Wind driven rain will “push” the rain water through the brick veneer. That is why a moisture barrier and weep holes are required.

I’d verify if the “leak” problem is at the window only or lack of moisture barrier and weep holes. If the darkened sheathing is punky or darkened throughout the sheathing, then it could have mold and you may want to have it tested.

If the brick wall is 8” thick and not 4” thick, then it’s a structural wall and not a veneer wall. We usually don’t use a moisture barrier for structural walls.


What connector should I use to connect LED light / driver to mains?

I'd use wire nuts to attach those to standard lamp cord, and put a standard plug at the other end...


How to temporarily connect inverter-generator safely to mains panel

No, you need to install proper transfer equipment. The transfer equipment allows you to automatically, or manually switch between power sources safely.

If you simply backfeed the panel, you could potentially kill a linesman working to restore the power.


Can I have multiple outside LED strip lights coming from one driver?

If your strips are intended for "12VDC" then they require a constant voltage supply. This is the usual arrangement for strips. In this case:

check how much current each strip will use
multiply by the number of strips
get a 12VDC supply with more amps than what you need, like a wall wart or a "led driver" specified to output 12V (which is not really a driver in this case, since it is a constant voltage supply) .
wire all the strips in parallel

If your strips are not specified for 12V but instead should be driven by constant current then you will need a constant current driver per strip. This would be uncommon.


Yes, Pass & Seymour Despard should git-r-dun.

You have a much bigger problem though. That's an awful lot of wires.

Assuming you have 3 supply cables and 3 onward cables, all /2, that means 12 conductors.   +2 for the yoke, +1 for all grounds, and +1 for all cable clamps, totals 16 conductor units.

With #14 wire that will be 32 cubic inches.   With #12 wire that will be 36 cubic inches.

A single box is about 10-12ci, so that ain't gonna happen.   A 4x4 2-gang box is 22 ci, and normal drywall 1-gang mud rings don't add enough cubes to save you.  They do make 10.2 ci. mud rings, but those won't work with drywall.

You are better off going to a 4-11/16" square box which 42 cubic inches depending on depth.  That with a 1-gang mud ring will suffice.

Now if you use all switch loops, you have 9 conductors, so with yoke+ground+clamps that is  13 wire counts. with the yoke+ground+clamps.  That's 26 c.i. For #14 wire and 29.25 c.i. with #12.  That might barely scootch under with a 4x4 box and a 1-gang mud ring if #14.


Your description is somewhat vague but I'll give it a try.

You say there are four wires from the house. I'm going to assume that these were connected together in pairs. In turn, each pair was connected to wires going to the old lights.

If the above is not correct, STOP READING! You need to clarify the wiring to us. A photo or drawing may help.

One of the pairs of wires is HOT and the other is NEUTRAL. Unfortunately, due to the lack of coloring, it may be difficult to tell which is which. Do you know that one of the pairs was connected to the outer ring of each socket? If yes, that pair should be NEUTRAL. If no, do you know which pair was connected to the old pull switch? If yes, that should be HOT.

If neither of the above can be determined, I strongly recommend you call an electrician to sort it out to avoid setting up a hazardous situation.

Assuming that has been sorted out, the wiring should be as follows:

HOT to one black wire of the switch. The other switch black connects to both blacks on the sockets. The white wires on both sockets connect to NEUTRAL.

I'd also recommend getting a roll each of black and white electrical tape. Wrap a strip of black tape on both HOT wires coming from the house. Wrap a strip of white tape on both NEUTRAL wires coming from the house. this will correctly identify the wiring for the future.

Again, if anything I've written does not match what you know of the wiring or if anything is not clear, STOP and call an electrician. If you connect things incorrectly, you could be setting up a very hazardous situation where someone could be electrocuted or your house could catch on fire.


How do you break in a new air compressor?

Answering a little late, but the instructions that came with my 20 gal. oil-free Husky say to run the compressor for 10 minutes with outlet and drain open. Times may vary depending on compressor size, lubrication style, etc., so check your owners manual.


There are a couple of ways to do what you want.

The gist is basically intersecting the spot light but allowing the power to not be interrupted when the existing switch is turned on.  Simple enough.  I've added two possible scenarios of how it might be wired.   The spare neutral is required by code, but only if the ceiling is closed off and not accessible.  It can be capped or taped off inside the switch box.


That is a nail-puller or tack-puller (more commonly tack-puller with the screwdriver-type handle). You can get similar function from a "cats-paw"


It sounds like the shower has a thermostatic mixing valve. These do have an adjustment to change the temperature limit if you want hotter water. I must say however that showering with very hot water may feel great, but is not really good for the skin.

Research the matter, but I would say that the temperature of full hot from a shower should not be over 110 F, but evidently the code is 120 F maximum. https://www.phcppros.com/articles/1828-hot-water-system-temperatures-and-the-code


Tv will be off center if mounting to studs

drill holes in the frame where the studs are.  No way would I put a $1000 TV on toggle bolts.


It should be fine - there are undoubtedly other, similar components related to the furnace itself that are also located inside the cabinet. Just make sure it's securely fastened so that vibrations don't knock it loose.
Sidenote: if it were me, I would replace that smallish beige wirenut with one of those deeper yellow ones so the wires aren't exposed.


look for an thermal fuse on the heating element. If the coil over heated these thermal links pop cost from 5-15$ (as long as the heat coil is good) This may be the cause.. usually held in with screws easy to change.


Toilet - Fill Valve water level too high and really can't be adjusted

Your toilet tank fill valve may need replacement if it is not adjustable in the way that I will describe. On valves that are adjustable the overall height of the valve / float assembly may need to be adjusted downward to lower the whole top of the unit. This will lower the overall range that the float works within.
If you need a replacement get something like shown here:

Picture Source
These units are available at home centers and hardware stores and are not that expensive. (Probably about the cost of two lattes at the coffee shop).
Note the portion of the base that is dark gray in color and the upper part that is the much lighter color. That lower part adjusts by screwing in or out of the upper part. This sets the position of the valve / float in the tank. The screw assembly is really just allowing a fine tuning of the water level. Generally the height adjustment is made when installing the unit.


Can two neutrals on different legs of the same circuit be connected together to shared neutral of ceiling fan?

There is a simple rule of thumb that keeps you honest, about cabling: No loops.  What you just drew there is a loop.  You can't have loops.

Think about a tree - trees have many places where they branch or split. But you never see two branches re-merge so they are connected and interchange life fluids.  That doesn't happen.

So all wiring must be a tree - unlimited splits involved, but no re-looping back.

This setup has a loopback.  It must be cut somewhere to be legal.

Mind you, the cut can be at a device or switch box, by having either a physical or imaginary "partition" separating all non-ground wires). Safety ground wires are allowed to cross the partition/loop/web, but never neutral.

So if you can obtain a fan with separated neutrals for fan and light, or if the fan's instructions include a procedure for having the same effect,  then you can indeed have the lamp+its neutral powered off the 3-ways and their accompanying neutral, and the fan+its neutral powered off the branch coming over from the lamps.

The problems with looping are serious -- buzzing wires which then causes metal fatigue, cracking and overheating or arcing...  heating in metal bits near this wire, and high EMF which can trouble animals or people who are EMF-sensitive.

When the "tree" plan is followed properly, all currents in each wire are balanced by an equal and opposite current in the other wire(s) of the cable. This causes the EMFs to cancel each other out, because that's the way magnetism works.


Temperature readings are high on income eletrical feeds to the breaker box

With aluminum service conductors if an anti oxide compound was not used the connection may be failing. Also if the terminals were not properly torqued this can happen. The 2017 NEC has a new section on torque requirements for this very reason. Re torquing the service requires hot gloves and flash gear if the service is live. I have never found a zip tie to cause an over heating problem. But have found many terminations that needed to be tightened both with copper and aluminum wire (I have found more problems with aluminum than copper).


Do I need an HVAC vent in this bathroom?

I'd say maybe you don't, if it doesn't have any exterior walls, which it does, so that's a yes.

Drywall is the enemy. This is also a good time to upgrade any of the electrical on the interior walls as well. You're two steps from a gut job; go for it.

As to whether you need more registers elsewhere, I don't know; I'm not a math wiz: calculate the heat load and the corresponding ventilation requirement (that's the part i pay for).


Is it possible to only use one color of an RGB LED strip?

Doxylover is right.  most inexpensive RGB LED strips have four conductors; the three colors and ground.   The ones I've used can take variable voltage on each circuit to allow color mixing and dimming.

Are you looking to have variety in color?  or just a stripe of a color to accent?

I think your boat is going to look fantastic.   Nice lighting.


Sprinklers on = no pressure in both sprinklers AND house

It could be a faulty safety pressure valve, f.e. used upstream of an electric/gas/oil boiler in the cold water inlet pipe.

In combination with the - assuming long - sprinkler lines/hoses, a sort of pressure (standing/reflected or other type of) wave could be established that opens this SPV periodically or permanently if the sprinkler is opened.
The sprinkler itself could start that pressure wave if it is of a type that sprinkles intermittently.

Needing resonance, it would be only generated with the right matching length and cross section of hose/pipe.

The SPV could also be dirty inside. Many SPV have manual handles to turn/snap them open for a short moment in order to clean the valve.


Replacing trim set in horse hair plaster

Yeah it is more brittle than sheetrock but still strong stuff.  Start with scoring the paint/caulk around the casing with a utility knife, then use a pry bar as normal, except use a board or plywood between your prybar and the wall.  That way you won't have the pry bar indent into the plaster as you pull the wood off.  Work your way around the door casing, prying it a little at a time.  Once you see where the nails are you can pry directly under that point, or hit the face of it with a hammer and sometimes that makes the nails pop out enough you can pry them out through the face.


Even if you use deionized water (which is a great insulator) it won't STAY a great insulator if you expose it to copper, brass, etc. in unsealed connections, which will leach ions and cause the water not to be deionized, nor a very good insulator. This will cause the lights in the water to fail, and may also offend your power supply.

If you want liquid, for some reason, mineral oil (USP) is clear, non-toxic, and a good electrical insulator that will stay an insulator. It will also make a mess if you tip the lamp over.

I'd suggest pouring the bottle full of epoxy, which will harden so it can't spill, and is an excellent insulator as well. Alternatively, find a size of marble or glass bead that fits through the neck opening and fill with those.


If I saw that in my basement I wouldn't worry about it until the column (post) started moving.

But if I did want to get proactive I'd get a jack and a 4x4 set up next to that column and jack it until that post is loose. Then put a new steel plate in there which should last the next 50 years.

And since this is internet advice and might actually be followed, use two posts and two jacks, you know, for safety.

Of course, when jacking things up you are acting against some very static forces and might end up cracking the tiles upstairs.


How should I re-caulk my butcher block counter top?

Ok Aaron, you will need to remove as much of the old caulk using a sharp putty knife. If you are careful you will not scratch the block or tile, however it can be tricky. Alternately, a rigid plastic scraper or caulk removal tool (cheap at HI stores) can be used to assure no scratching or gouging. The next step is to run a line of 3M delicate surface painter's tape in a very straight line down the counter top and along the back splash exactly where you want the caulk to end. Select a 100% silicone caulking of the color you want. Apply an even bead of caulk to the seam, smooth it with your finger or a plastic tool tapering the edge thinly at the edge of the tape. Work quickly, do not let the caulking start to set up. As soon as you are happy with the bead's smoothness, remove the tape immediately.  Let the caulk set up and cure for 24 hours before exposing it to water.  Good luck.


Absolutely, remove the insulation & don't install any drywall. Floor venting is a start, though not needed, but mid-level or high-level venting is best. Bleach the interior down, scrub it with a broom, hose it out & leave the door(s) open for a couple of dry days to get rid of any mold.

A shed must be free to change with the outdoor conditions as quickly as possible. Organic items should not be stored in the shed. So no, Cardboard or Interior Upholstered & Fabric. Outdoor only Cushions, Table Umbrellas & Wood Furniture are mostly fine, but should be cleaned & sunbathed annually.


Backyard shed with keyed hasp same as house key

A locksmith can order (if necessary) and set up padlocks or locking hasps that respond to your house key, unless the house lock is using a particularly uncommon key blank. They may be a bit larger than the ones designed to be sold in bulk, and they will probably be a bit more expensive, but the price shouldn't be unreasonable.


Your plumber seems to be poorly educated if you are left without the following solutions having been mentioned.

This is  pretty standard problem for folks with a boiler AND a woodstove - the woodstove keeps the house warm and the boiler pipes are subject to freezing off in the corners of the house. Not that this is your situation, but a "standard" solution to "pipes running in a cold space" exists.

The standard solution is a timer that circulates the boiler water every so often (a more sophisticated one could take input from an outside temperature sensor to influence how often) whether or not there's a call for heat. In combination with insulation, that will keep the pipes from freezing.

There are other possible solutions (that don't involve heating the garage if you don't want to heat it), the most obvious of which is to replace the heating system water with non-toxic antifreeze. Heat tape (on the pipe, under the insulation) would be another option, but is frankly fussy and can be unreliable.

A final possible influence - if you use a "setback" thermostat or you manually turn the heat down at night - don't do that in very cold weather. It makes for a long "off" time before the first call for heat after turn-down, and that's when things tend to freeze. When it turned very cold here, I set my thermostat to "hold" and left it there.


GFCI seemed to fizzle and pop, and now works as a non-GFCI outlet - what happened?

What happened?

Turns out, "outdoor leak-proof covers" don't actually work.
The GFCI was destroyed by the weather.
Your pressing "test" exposed the weather damage, and finished the beast off.
The noticeable arcing after you reset was grim warning of imminent hazard.  Your healthy fear of electrical things should've kicked in; it certainly would have mine!
You tinkered with it instead; this ultimately welded the contact closed.

You now have a GFC.  Ground Fault Circuit (absolutely nothing).

The quick fix is to replace this GFC with an outdoor-rated GFCI+receptacle.  You'll be doing this again though.

The good fix is don't leave valuable electronics outside.  Follow this circuit back inside the building, and find the next receptacle on this circuit that's closer to the supply.  Follow the circuit from receptacle to receptacle until you find one that's in the nice dry indoors.  Fit a GFCI+receptacle there, test it, then feed the rest of the circuit off its LOAD terminals.  Replace this GFC with a plain receptacle.


Looking for NEC reference on resizing main panel that will feed a new panel for 2nd unit

Power: Electric houses just need a lot

Generally speaking, all-electric houses get 200A, 320A or 400A service.   Now you are adding a second dwelling that's also all-electric. So we can definitely disqualify 200A (for both) as inadequate.

Therefore your best bet is a 400A meter-main.  Even if the power company won't provision that much, they could upgrade the service later if your usage warrants it.

The size of the main breakers will be decided by the power company.

Subpanels: Think big

As for the subpanels, **the single most important thing about panels is to provision enough spaces. 40 spaces per panel is not too many, especially in an all-electric house where many loads will be 240V and gobble up 2 panel spaces.  30 spaces is a bare minimum that will likely cause you trouble later, but it may be suitable for the auxiliary dwelling.  Given the small cost to upgrade to a 40-space, there's no reason to paint yourself into a corner.

We certainly do not want you back here later going "my panel is full, how do I add this breaker?"

And double especially, don't make the most common mistake I see: chintzing out on the panels, and then spending a fortune on copper wire when aluminum is the right stuff, and 1/3 the price.

You may be accustomed to using "double-stuff" breakers to economize on spaces. These are no longer practical, due to the need for almost every breaker to be AFCI or dual mode AFCI/GFCI. These are not made in double-stuffs.

You mentioned a 125A subpanel, and that will surely be much too small in terms of numbers of spaces. The subpanels can be any size you please; that is merely a current limit for the buses and it doesn't need to match the official main breaker in the meter-main.

If the subpanel has its own main breaker, there's no need for it to match either.  So you can feed a 225A subpanel from a 125A or 200A main - no trouble at all.   The panel in the house doesn't even need a main breaker since it's in the same building as the meter-main.  If it's not attached (e.g. via a breezeway), the auxiliary dwelling would need a "main breaker"; actually what it needs is a main disconnect switch, but using a "main breaker panel" is usually the cheapest way to do that.


Replacing 14/2 wire with larger gauge (12/3), is this a problem?

You're good to go. You could run #10, #8 or #6 if you wanted (of course you'd have a heck of a time terminating it in the box, but that's another story).
You're always free to run a larger gauge wire since, as you know, it can handle the higher amps.
Make sure you label the circuit (as others very properly noted) to remind yourself and future electricians that this is a 15a circuit with some #12 wiring and that it's not #12 all the way to the breaker.


How can I repair or replace this rusty leaking bathroom sink handle?

You probably have a leak in the supply line or the valve stem itself.

It is possible that the supply line is loose and water is leaking and pooling under the faucet.  If that is the case, tightening the supply line, or resetting the conector with new teflon tape  may solve it.

It is also possible that the faucet is seriously damaged. If so, you will probably need to replace at least this faucet section. Becaue faucets are sold as sets. it may be more practical to replace the whole set.

The first thing you need to do is turn off the supply valve sending water to this side of the faucet.

The faucet handle should have a cap a the very top that can be pried off with a thin blade, such as a butter knife or a utility knife.  Under the cap should be a screw that should be loosened that will allow the removal of the handle itself.

After that, you can get access to the valve stem itself. If you turn on the supply valve briefly, you may see water leaking from some part of the stem.

This section of the faucet can usually be removed by loosening a nut under the sink, after the supply valve is turned off and the supply line is disconnected. You may need a special wrench called a basin wrench.

If you are unfamiar with changing faucets, you may want to consult a plumber or a more experienced friend.


IMHO full depth = full strength.

If you don’t go full depth, will you add washers to make the anchor fit snug to base?


Is surface-mounted cabling on my basement ceiling a threat to my safety?

Depending on the wire size the NEC expressly forbids stapling to the bottom of the joists, or as the OP has stated fastened to paneling on the bottom of the joists.

From 2014 NEC;

  334.15(C)C) In Unfinished Basements and Crawl Spaces. Where cable is run at angles with joists in unfinished basements and crawl spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller than two 6 AWG or three 8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges of the joists. Smaller cables shall be run either through bored holes in joists or on running boards.

From the OP's post it sounds like they put all the cables in bundles on the paneling. The smaller ones need to be run through the joists or on running boards.

The question would remain if the "paneling" qualifies as a "running board". I would argue that 1by material is needed to qualify as a running board not paneling.

Happy Saturday!


New washing machine using the same valve as the sink, water smells and tastes like plastic

I am not sure if washing machine hoses are rated for potable water, with that said I used to drink from a hose all the time and still do. If the water smells bad let it run it may be like many appliances that have to offgas a little and the smell/ taste will go away after a while. I would think that the hoses should be rated for use with potable water since they are connecting to the home water supply. If you are concerned contact the MFG they will have the info on the materials used in the hoses and will probably give the same advice that it will go away after a while.


Are High End Furnace Filters worth the cost?

The problem with the really cheap filters is that you really should replace them monthly.  The slightly more expensive filters often only need to be replaced every 3 months or so, which in reality doesn't actually make them that much more expensive.

I usually go with the cheapest 3 month filters, since I know I'm not going to get down there every month to replace the super cheap ones.  Aside from that consideration and the ones you already mentioned, there's no need to spend lots of money on a top of the line filter.  They aren't going to make your furnace last any longer.


Are there any advantages to installing a 125A subpanel instead of a 100A panel?

EDIT - The electician is the expert and he would tell or supply you what you need.  The question should really be "mr electrician, do I need a 125 or 100A Sub Panel?  but usually they just supply these for you.

He'll size it according to the what's connected to it and the number of circuits that are off it.

Since you asked about the differences between the sub-panels.  I looked it up and here are the specs of each.

Comparing a 100A and 125A from Seimens.

100A version.

1 Phase, 3 Wire, 120/240VAC
12 Spaces, expandable to 24 circuits maximum with the use of QO tandem breakers
Type 1 Indoor enclosure
with automatic flush adjustment and door
CSA approved for vertical,horizontal or inverted mounting
Lifetime Warranty

125A version.

12 Circuits expandable to 24 (using space-saver breakers)
Certified for use with any combination of full or half module plug-in circuit breakers
Certified for mounting vertical, horizontal or inverted
Suitable for copper or aluminum conductors Rugged construction and reliable performance
-A complete line of accessories give Loadcentres the flexibility to meet application requirements

So it fits the same number of breakers actually.  That suggests that inside the bus bars are a little bit heavier rated (larger) in the 125A version.  Which means:

PRO's: More available power if you need it - e.g. a greater number of higher ampage breakers.  Or a larger number of lower amp ones.  e.g. a configuration might be 4 x 25A breakers + a 15A and 2 x 5A.  - 7 breakers but maxing out the capacity.  You couldn't do this in the 100A version.

CON's: Appears to cost more.

I would suggest unless you can see that you've got a massive load, 100A will be fine.

If you're using your subpanel for a home workshop and you have several high current power tools like a table saw, air compressor, welder etc... then go with a 125A and run lots of circuits for the workshop.  Otherwise, you may just be spending money for no real benefit.

Actually - 125A might be too small for most welders but I'm not familiar enough with the supply power they need so if you're going to run a welder - get that checked out with your electrician.

Ask your electrician what's needed if you'll be the one supplying the parts.


If the joist hanger is slightly wider than the joist ( joist, not stud )  then do not push it in towards the joist.

Fasten it parallel with one side up against the joist and a gap on the other side. Then fasten the gap side to the ledger board parallel so it does not bow at the bottom, ( do not push it in to the joist )    Before you fasten the gap side  to the joist put a filler shim in the gap between the joist and the hanger. A piece of thin plywood could work or two shims turned so the thin edge's are facing each other so they create a flat surface. ( This allows you to adjust the thickness of them by sliding them together or apart.   you may have to trim their length )

The connection of the hanger with ledger board is important as it is what is carrying the weight of the joist and the connection of the hanger to the joist help to keep it from pulling away from the ledger board. Use a longer screw or nail to account for the thickness of the shim.


Finishing Attic Floor (Joists Blocking / Insulation)

Can I screw the blocking instead of nailing it as I'm a little worried the nailing might cause cracking in the plaster ceiling (with wood lath) below?

Absolutely.

  Is it okay to sister a 2x6 board to the current 2x6 board along the front and back perimeter of the finished area to support the ends of the new subfloor since I'll be cutting the current subfloor back to the edge of the current 2x6's? Can I use screws instead of nails?

Again, absolutely.  Definitely makes things easier.

  Should I replace the loose fill insulation with unfaced batts and fill in any small areas with the old loose fill?

Not necessary if over conditioned space, but would not be a problem.

  Does all of this sound kosher / is there anything else I should be considering?

The joist are braced by the lath and plaster below on the bottom , and the subfloor on the top so no bridging will be needed.


Ideas to save hardwood floor from botched tung oil job?

In a closet or other inconspicuous area try applying pure undiluted orange oil in a thin layer. This will soften and extract the tung oil, then scrape the softened layer with a 4" or 8" wide razor scraper, periodically scraping off the scraper with a putty knife.

Then go over the floor with orange oil on a rag, then mineral spirits to remove the residue of orange oil. I haven't used this myself on hardwood, but have used it to remove adhesive from concrete.

I realize this may be just too expensive and perhaps sanding is the no nonense  professional procedure, but sticky tung oil would probably gum up the sanding belts. And I just hate handling dust.

Edit
If all you want to do is remove excess tung oil, maybe you could use an electric floor buffer with pads. Apply a thin layer of orange oil, let sit for 5 minutes or so then run the floor buffer with an absorbent pad over the oiled area. I would not use an electric buffer with highly volatile solvent like mineral spirits because of risk of fire or even explosion.


How to attach vinyl bracket to cement post?

You can try a self-tapping concrete screw, as long as the concrete is not brittle.  You need to pre-drill a pilot hole but after that nothing more than screwing the screw in.  The only problem is the screw size is probably a little bigger than you need.  I think 3/16 x 1-1/4" is the smallest made, but other manufacturers might make smaller.

Any questions click here.


Can I use Kerdi Board instead of Cement Board to thinset natural stone tile?

All cement products contain silicates, from the sand use in the cement. It won't be breathable unless you create dust by cutting or breaking the panels.

That being said, I don't see instructions for using Kerdi Board for flooring in the Schluter product data. It could be there and I just missed it, but I'm not seeing it. Schluter is actually pretty good about replying to emails, so you could ask them to be sure.

Another option to look into would be Schluter Ditra, another product from Schluter that is intended for use with flooring.


How do I replace a 3 wire switch with a 4 wire motion detection switch?

Actually, you very likely do NOT have a black hot and a white neutral. A simple (not smart, not dimmer, not motion, not 3-way, etc.) switch will have a hot and a switched hot. So the white you see is not neutral.

The 4 wires you need are ground (all grounds go together, everything has a ground, so we'll ignore that for now), neutral (the problem), hot and load. Load is also referred to as switched hot.

There are two possible configurations of your current switch & light:

Hot into box, switched hot to light

In this case, you would typically have two  cables coming into the box. One would have black hot and white neutral, with black going to the switch and white connected to the white of the other cable. The second cable would have black switched hot and white neutral, with the black switched hot connected to the switch.

Switch loop - something like this:

Power goes to the light first. At the light, white is neutral and connects to the light. Black is hot and connects to another cable (which also connects switched hot to the other side of the light. The end result is that the black/white cable you have at the switch does not contain neutral.

From your description, I suspect you have the second configuration, and you need to add a wire to get neutral at the switch. The problem is you can't simply "run another wire" - all wires need to be together in conduit (unlikely since if you had conduit then the switched hot should not have been white) or together in a cable, which would require a 3-wire cable instead of a 2-wire cable (ground isn't counted in that numbering scheme).

Current code requires neutral to be included in switch boxes, but that is a relatively recent change so it is quite common to find switch boxes without an accessible neutral.

Neutrals must match their hots - you can't pull another neutral from a different light (or even worse, a different circuit). You also can't reuse ground as neutral (that would technically work but be a significant code violation).


How do I secure the shower valve without removing tile?

You'll have to be creative, but the best solution is to open the wall on the opposite side behind the valve.  Hopefully you have drywall or a closet and not an outside wall.  Drywall repair is cheaper and easier than tile repair.  In many areas it is code to have an access hatch to reach the bathtub trap, so you may be able to reach it from there.

Other option is to bust out as few tiles as possible.  You should have a few spares from the tile work, or if it is recent you may be able to buy a few to patch the damage.


Issue with chimney and wood burning insert

If that clay tile in the picture goes all the way to the fireplace then that was constructed as a solid fuel chimney. As far as knowing if this chimney can accept a wood burning insert I would have the chimney inspected by an expert just to be sure.


Difference between blue and grey blue coaxial ports

There's no difference between the colors. In locations with lots of different AV sources, different colored connectors are used to differentiate between sources. I'm guessing one installer had a pouch full of blue connectors, and another installer had gray.

The connectors in your home may have come from different manufacturers, or different times in history. So there may indeed be a difference in quality, and/or construction.  This, however, has nothing to do with the color of the connector.

F connectors (and coaxial cable) are commonly used to transmit cable, satellite, and broadcast television signals.


If you look closely at the boards on the inside, you will see they are overlapping, the top edge being behind the bottom edge of the board above (behind when viewed from the outside). This is standard clapboard type construction (although many modern clapboards have a tapered upper edge and the overlap is much greater). Rain tends to drip off the lower edge of the board and proceed downward, not into the joints.

The doors are probably tongue in groove which would resist moisture penetration by creating a circuitous path. Also, moisture that gets into the joint tends to cause it to swell and further seal the joint (somewhat).

The roof joints largely depend on overhang to keep water out.

In general, falling rain not whipped by high winds would largely stay outside.

However this type of construction is not meant to be very watertight, only keep the large majority of the water out. If you have sensitive materials that must be kept very dry, you would probably need to line the shed with a real membrane seal.

If you just want a little increased protection, you could seal the joints with caulk or silicone sealant. Most sealants prefer painted surfaces, so if you are not finishing the surface, look for one that says it bonds to wood.


Is there a term for this bolt attachment mechanism?

your question is "what is this thing called", and I agree that T-nut is a good answer, but when you described your application, perhaps what you're looking for could be called a "leveling foot".


How can I install a hood exaust vent with a joist in the way?

I would cut your "Top Support Plate" (as it's called in the picture you linked in one of your comments), as you suggest in the picture of your question.
Attach a metal 6in 90 to drop down (as I suppose you were going to), and then 6in ducting down and attached to the vent unit, all inside the shrouded box.
There seems to be enough distance down to allow a minor slant to this portion of the vent, form the off centre exit point at the top plate, down to the fan unit.
And attach the plate to the joist for extra strength.


Unexpected rain less than 24 hours after staining

I just love how manufacturers expect that weather be so predictable that one could be assured of no rain in the next 24–48 hours.

Here, in the land of the world's most unpredictable weather, we often cross our fingers, resigned to repaint.  Or put up tarps to deal with the possibility of rain, or tarps are at the ready in case threatening clouds appear.

If the temperature and humidity were conducive to quick curing before the rain, it is probably okay.  More rain won't make much difference, especially if the rain stops and the humidity goes down in a few hours.

If there are a few patches of not-well-cured paint, try gentle use of a hair dryer.  In a few days, see if any touch up is needed.


Why do my fluorescent lights flicker and require cycling the switch to turn on?

One of the bulbs also has one black end if that means anything.

That means it is an old fluorescent tube approaching the end of its life. Generally the end gets darker and darker over time. This is an effect of the starting process eroding the filament at one end.

  Do these low-medium end fixtures tend to wear out after 15 years?

No, they can keep going for much longer but some (many) will fail early and a few will last unexpectedly long.

Older installations used a starter that is worth replacing if you have problems.

I would test the tubes in another fitting that is working well (note: you can probably buy a cheap fitting for $10 and just use that for testing tubes)


The 3 position switch Johnny pointed out is listed to UL 508 for industrial control devices, so it should be acceptable for switching some general-use receptacles around.  (You'd be creating a tiny industrial control panel under Article 409 of the NEC -- your average junction box + cover combo meets NEMA 1, and there are provisions in the Code for an industrial control panel that's protected by the upstream breaker.)


How should I repair the cracks in my ceiling before painting?

You have two main issues: 1) crack length of room, and 2) top coat and brown coat separating from scratch coat.

1) When we see cracks running in the middle of a room, it’s usually from undersized ceiling framing. Lumber bends most at the center of a span. If the lumber is undersized, it will deflect excessively and thus cause a crack in brittle materials like: plaster, ceramic tile, etc. You’ll probably need to sister an additional joist next to the existing joists.)

Before you fix the crack and paint, I’d suggest you verify the ceiling framing is adequate. (There are span tables on the internet that can tell you what size lumber should be used to carry the existing plaster plus any additional plaster (or gypsum board) repairs...or you can ask on this forum giving span, spacing of existing joists, any loads above ceiling, etc.)

2) Plaster is generally a 3 step process. Each layer requires the new layer to bond to the previous layer. Looking at the missing piece, it appears the plaster separating is about 3/8” to 1/2” thick. That means the brown coat (about 3/8” thick) and finish coat (about 1/8” thick) is separating from the scratch coat.

There is no easy way to repair this problem without removing the brown coat and finish coat. (You can’t just nail it back up because it’ll continue cracking and separating and it will be very uneven.)

Often people choose to remove the worst areas and then install gypsum board over the entire ceiling. However, that adds a great deal of load, but you may need to reinforce the existing ceiling joists anyway.


Thanks for the input, we figured this one out. Because we could not find a leak in the tank and the T&P valve was not leaking we were a little baffled. When this unit was installed it was so tall we had to actually dig a hole in the crawl space about 1' deep. This hole was filling up with water. Since we are in a group of 5 townhomes we figured out the water was come from 3 homes away due to a broken water line, thus filling up the hole our water heater is in to the point it would prevent enough oxygen to keep the pilot and burner from working. This is one of those crazy things that makes you think outside of the box.


Conduit to run ethernet and coax from basement to attic

That hole is a firecode violation.  It should be air sealed around the penetrations - as it stands it is a chimney for a fire.
As far as conduit to separate the low voltage wires from the line voltage - are you pulling one end back to get the conduit onto them?  a staple and a zip tie to keep the wires to one side of the hole would probably work just as well.


How to finish edges of drywall between exposed wall studs

Why not get some lauan plywood and use that instead? I think it would be easier and cheaper. If you're leaving the studs exposed then the wall must not be a firewall of any sort so you should be okay to use another type of wood. I think you'll end up with much better seems butting up to the sides of your studs. You can also paint it if you desire. If you wanted the studs to be a different color/stain I might do those first then put up your inside material.


Mop disintegrates when used on coarse stone floor - any good alternatives?

I had a black slate floor just like that. I cleaned it 3 times by hand as soon as it was down and dry - still not used then treated it with 3 coats of oil and let it soak in. Ever since it is easily cleaned with a mop and liquids don’t sink in.


Drywall wet enough to push your fingers through, will not dry enough to 'recover' its strength. The paper outer layers will have separated and the inner plaster turned to a mushy mess.

Definitely expose the affected areas. When water gets into walls it can smell for years. As an absolute minimum, you need to remove all the drywall and insulation which was wet. Then you can begin the drying out process. Vaccum up the insects and then seal the dust bag in a zip lock polythene bag for disposal.

If it still smells funny after a while, some folks like to paint everything on the inside the opening you made in the wall (similar to repairing fire damage) to 'seal' in any odd smells. Just a thought...


Although my hot water works, why won't my radiator come on?

The most obvious thing that springs to mind is that you have air in your system.

Do the pipes between the radiators get hot, or the bottoms of the radiators but not the top?

If so then you need to bleed your radiators. You should have a little key with a square hole. Carefully open the valve at the top of the radiator a very small amount - you should hear a hissing sound of air escaping. Wait until water starts to dribble out - use a cloth to catch this. Repeat for all radiators.

For more information, pictures and a couple of videos see The Ultimate Handyman

UPDATE

Turn your thermostat all the way up - to make sure that it registers the current temperature as too cold - then the boiler should kick in. If not then it's the thermostat. If the boiler does kick in check the central heating return pipe - this should get hot after a few minutes. If not then there's either an airlock in the pipes themselves or the pump isn't working.

Can you hear the pump turning. If not there's a screw head in the centre of the pump which controls the speed of the pump (see the pictures here). Turn this clockwise. If the pump still doesn't turn you may need to replace it.

It could also be the electronics in the boiler not sending the signal out to the pump.

At this point consulting a heating engineer would be your best option.


Is it normal for a sprinkler system to increase water pressure to a house?

It can, if you live in a hot sunny climate and there is no one-way valve to the sprinkler system. Cold water in, or on their way to the sprinkler valves will be heated by the ground or sun, and expand will a little causing significant back pressure.

If you have ever left your garden hose filled with water with the hose bib shut off on a sunny day, then pulled the trigger on the hose end, you will see the same effect. Lots of water pressure.


You will need to form up and pour/trowel a concrete frame to hold a steel grate. You should be able to find a local fabricator/welder who can make them custom to your size needs, or an internet search will reveal fabricators who will make and ship them to you.

Another option would be to build a wood version yourself. I believe you could build a "slatted cover" that would be plenty strong, but it would not provide as much ventilation as a steel grate and would require some frequency of maintenance. It would be significantly easier and cheaper, however.


What is open time, working time for adhesive?

Open Time*

The amount of time the adhesive should be left to set, before it is covered.
If you're gluing two sticks together, with an adhesive with 30 seconds open time. You should apply the glue to one stick, then wait at least 30 seconds before affixing the second stick.

The amount of time the adhesive can be left before it is covered.
If you're gluing two sticks together, with an adhesive with 30 seconds open time.  You should apply the glue to one stick, and affix the second stick before 30 seconds has elapsed.

Working Time
The amount of time from when the adhesive has set, to the time it will no longer bond.
Again gluing two sticks together, this time with an adhesive with a 5 minute working time.  Once you apply the glue to the first stick, you have to affix and position the second stick in less than 5 minutes. If you don't affix the sticks within this time, the adhesive will not bond (or at least is not guaranteed to bond).
Set Time
The amount of time the adhesive needs to form a good bond.
Back to the sticks, this time with an adhesive with a 10 minute set time.  Now that the sticks are affixed, you'll have to wait 10 minutes before they are adequately stuck together.
Pot Life
The amount of time an adhesive can remain viable after being mixed.
If you're gluing the sticks using a 2 part epoxy, with a pot life of 2 hours.  Once you mix the epoxy, you have 2 hours to use it before it becomes useless.
Notes
*Some manufacturers use open time, and working time interchangeably. Open time should only be assumed to be different than working time, when working with adhesives that need to activate or set before being usable.
After doing more research, it appears there really isn't a set vocabulary used throughout the industry.  Your best bet would be to contact the manufacturer, and ask them what they mean.


What are the legalities associated with mounting splicing wire connectors?

Mounting a splicing wire connector turns it into a pumpkinterminal block

We know that by definition, as per ZMVV.GuideInfo:

  Splicing wire connectors establish a connection between two or more conductors by means of mechanical pressure and are not intended to be permanently mounted. They are floating, such as a twist-on connector in an outlet box.

, a device listed to UL 486A-B-C as a splicing wire connector is intended to be free-floating in a box, not mounted to a surface.  When we mount such a thing to a box, though, it then provides a set of wiring terminals, with the mounting means  becoming a supporting block for said set of wiring terminals.  By definition, as per XCFR2.GuideInfo:

  This category covers assemblies of wiring terminals and supporting blocks intended to provide a means for the connection of wiring. These terminal blocks may employ terminal connectors, wire-binding screws, quick-connect terminals and similar friction fit terminals, which are intended for factory-wiring and/or field-wiring connections.

, we now have a terminal block, which as per UL 1059, is not rated for field installation, as the creepage and clearance distances (spacings) and short-circuit current ratings on terminal blocks must be further evaluated by UL in the end application.  Furthermore, it cannot be a power distribution block, listable to UL 1953, because as per QPQS.GuideInfo:

  A power distribution block consists of one or more terminal wire connectors mounted on an insulating base. Each connector has provisions for one or more incoming run conductors and multiple tap conductors. A tap conductor is of the same or smaller size as the incoming run conductor. The connectors may be of the lay-in construction, which do not require the incoming run conductor to be terminated.

, the individual connecting means in a power distribution block are considered terminal wire connectors, which are defined by ZMVV.GuideInfo:

  Terminal connectors establish a connection between one or more conductors to a terminal plate or stud, or to any similar device by means of mechanical pressure. They are fixed in position.

to be mutually exclusive from splicing wire connectors.

What can you use a terminal block for? Control circuits, that's what!

So, if you cannot field-install a terminal block into a mains circuit, what are they good for, then? The answer, as it turns out, is control circuits that fall under NEC Article 725.  First off, wire connecting means generally must merely be identified, not listed, as per NEC 110.14:

  110.14 Electrical Connections. Because of different characteristics of dissimilar metals, devices such as pressure terminal or
  pressure splicing connectors and soldering lugs shall be identified for the material of the conductor and shall be properly
  installed and used.

This, by itself, does not prohibit us from using terminal blocks for mains wiring.  What does prohibit that usage is the listing requirement for power distribution blocks, found in NEC 314.28(E)(1) (with similar wording in NEC 376.56(B)(1)):

  (1) Installation. Power distribution blocks installed in boxes
  shall be listed. Power distribution blocks installed on the line
  side of the service equipment shall be listed and marked “suitable for use on the line side of service equipment” or equivalent.

However, Article 725 does not state Article 314 is applicable (see 725.3 for details) to control circuits, so the 314.28(E) requirements for power distribution blocks do not apply to control circuits to begin with.

But, there is still hope!

If one wishes to join 14-10AWG mains circuit wires en masse in a tidy fashion, though, without resorting to the rather unnecessary bulk of power distribution blocks, there is still an option on the table though.  Some manufacturers make enclosed terminal block assemblies that consist of a UL 1059 recognized terminal block whose terminals are considered "suitable for field wiring" that has been factory mounted into a plastic or metal enclosure (junction box).  This assembly is then UL listed (as a trivial UL 508A control panel) as an assembly, which means that it can be used for field mains wiring without having to worry about the precise approvals of the terminal block itself.

Furthermore, while these boxes do not ship with grounding bars by default, one can add a UL 467 listed grounding bar (such as a Penn-Union NA-414) to such an enclosure to provide a central grounding point, thus saving the terminal block's terminals for current-carrying conductors (hots and neutrals), as per the Exception to NEC 314.28(E):

  Exception: Equipment grounding terminal bars shall be permitted in
  smaller enclosures.

Finally, if you cannot find a suitable assembly prefabricated/stocked, you can ask a local industrial control panel shop with the appropriate certifications to custom-fabricate such a thing for you and get it approved under their UL 508A listing, although at a not-inconsiderable cost compared to a prefabricated unit.


What drill bit do I need to screw a hex cap screw into a wall stud? The magnetic DeWalt nut driver bits aren't an exact match

The DeWalt nut drivers (and others also) are very shallow (only meant for driving sheet metal screws (and are magnetic).

As suggested, regular sockets with a rachet handle will cover the hex head and not be pushed-off by the cap head.

You can get a socket adapter for your impact driver and then use your regular sockets:


Is it possible or feasible to build basement walls without anchoring?

You could put down a bead of construction adhesive under the sill plate. That will glue it to the tiles.

You do need the wall secured somehow because you will not want to be seeing it move around as you finish it out and put said wall into deployment.


How do I make a Liquid-level-indicator for an overhead sintex water tank

Probably the simplest indicator would be to have a float that raises or lowers a rod of some kind. In this setup a float is attached to a vertical rod that goes through the ceiling of the tank. The rod then angles horizontally to the right to the side of the tank, then down vertically towards the ground. You would then build an indicator with lines painted for every unit of height of water in the tank. As the water level raises the float goes up, lifting the rod assembly, and as water us used the whole assembly drops.

The other mechanical way I can think of would be to use water pressure to indicate the amount of water in the tank. Assuming this is gravity fed you could install a pressure gauge on the main water feed and then calibrate the pressure levels with the water levels.

There are other mechanical ways to do this, however if it were me I'd go with an electronic solution of some kind rather than a mechanical one. You could install a low power (even solar powered) electronic system with some LEDs to show your water levels. You could even install a webcam in the tank itself and measure water levels based on lines painted on the inside.


How do I replace a worn isolation valve which is partially recessed into a tiled wall?

It looks to me like the valve stem and handle were cut off!!

The valve will need replacement.

Access for replacement will require removing at least one tile.

Cost estimates are something you will get from bids in your locale.


The fact that it's a "manufactured housing load center" is irrelevant here -- from an electrical point of view, it's no different than any other load center with the same specifications.  So, simply follow the two phase instructions, although, for safety's sake, I would have the electric utility pull your meter for you for the duration of the panelboard work as residential panelboards don't separately guard the main breaker terminals, and installing the CTs requires working around them.  (It's not like a plastic piece over them'd be expensive...)


Is this ladder bookcase design strong enough to hold printers?

Interesting design. f I'm understanding it correctly I think it could work, but I would definitely use screws to secure your slide-in shelving and all the other joints. Pocket hole screws can be used if you are concerned about aesthetics. The weakest aspect is probably that it will be a little tippy sideways, depending on how you load it. A horizontal support along the back (similar to how you have it in the front) would help that... it could be shorter in length than the front one, to help change up the look.


The best thing to do is shim the studs that the baseboard is nailed to.
If the difference is 1/2" then add a 1/2" piece of wood to the stud on the right side of the picture.  Use a straight edge from the newly shimmed stud to the stud on the far left, measure and install shims to the studs in between to get out the same distance.  I can't tell what the wood is that is behind the baseboard - I can see some studs.  You don't need to shim all the wood just every 16" ( standard spacing for studs ) and just mark the floor so you know where to nail.
If the distance is fractional you can do other things like take wood screws with flat heads and use those to hold the baseboard off the surface of the studs.  You probably want two screws so the baseboard is held off in a reasonably firm way - one at maybe 1/4" shy of the top and one 1/4" shy of the bottom ( just choose a height that you can avoid when you trim nail the baseboard to the studs ).
It looks like you are re-doing your flooring.  Put the baseboards on after the flooring.


Typically you'd run 14/2 to the vanity, and 14/3 to the fan/light combo.

In the switch box,

Connect all the grounded (neutral) conductors.
Connect all the grounding conductors.
Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductor from the vanity to the switch.
Connect one of the ungrounded (hot) conductors from the light/fan to the switch.
Connect the other ungrounded (hot) conductors from the light/fan to the switch.

If you're dead set on running a single cable, you should be able to find 14/4 or 14/2/2 at your local electrical supply shop.  The big boxes might actually carry 14/2/2, but I haven't specifically looked for it lately.   Just remember if you use 14/2/2, you'll have to mark the repurposed neutral so future electricians know it's used as an ungrounded conductor.

As more and more locations adopt the 2011 version of National Electrical Code, you should start seeing 4 wire cable becoming more common and more widely available.


How do I rehang a wooden door with worn screw holes?

A few suggestions:

Are you using a wood glue such as Elmer's to hold the toothpicks in place?  The top hinge on my front door used to pull loose; I repaired it with toothpicks and wood glue (pretty much filling the screw hole) and haven't had any problems in several years.
How long were the original screws, and what did you replace them with?  When I installed a new interior door a few months ago, I replaced the 1/2" screws that came with the door with 2 1/2" or 3" (I forget which) screws of the same thickness.  Assuming normal framing, you have two 2x4s, possibly some shims and the jamb itself, so there's plenty of wood there for a long screw to grip onto.
Take the hinge plate off the jamb (support the door so it doesn't pull the other hinges out of the jamb) and drill out the screw holes that are giving you problems; the hole should be as deep as the existing screw.  Glue a dowel of the same thickness as your drill bit into the hole.  Before you replace the hinge screw, drill a pilot hole to ensure that the screw goes in straight.


How do I affix wires to an E27 T210 lamp holder?

For push-in connectors, the wires do literally just push in. There is usually a gauge printed on the unit to show how much insulation to strip. Soldering stranded wire is helpful but not necessary if twisted tightly. There is usually also a tab to press with a flat screwdriver to release the wire (in case you need to remove it).

(Click image to enlarge)


Will petroleum jelly applied to the rubber on the outdoor power outlet help prolong the rubber life?

Vaseline, also known as petroleum jelly is a petroleum product. Unless you can be comfortable that the rubber seal will not react to petroleum based products, consider to use a silicone based product. I've used a GE product known as dielectric grease on outdoor rubber items, specifically in the cable industry. Even with extreme southern USA sunshine, ocean salt air and plenty of microbes, the rubber lasts for years. I'd think that even a silicone plumbers grease would work if re-applied as needed.


Disconnect the power to the unit and let it sit for 5 min and then repower it. You can either switch off the breaker or pull the plug.


I would just sand the top down the edges look ok, you will want to use a fine sand paper after finished sanding and go over the edge , then when refinishing the top blend them together.


Should the edge of a tiled shower wall and floor be left unsealed?

Yes, that's normal.  Any water that does penetrate the grout lines (keep in mind that grout is NOT water tight) needs to go somewhere.  There should be an impermeable material behind the tile that will allow water to flow down the wall and into the pan.
If you seal the bottom, that water will be trapped and will eventually leak into something else.


I am pretty sure that is mold. I would start with a bleach solution to clean it up. Rental? If so, I would have the landlord look at it and get it taken care of. Cleaning, painting with Kilz or Bullseye or something similar. Then monitor it for a few months.


Renovating Crawlspace with Poured Concrete Floor

It sounds like you already have a couple of experts working with you. Without seeing the proposed new space, I can only speak to a couple of your concerns.

There is no easy way to install a sub slab vapor barrier without removing the old slab. You do not want to sandwich plastic between the old and new concrete if you are going to only put in an inch or so of concrete to level the space. I'm sure your contractor will prep the old slab  by cleaning etc to assure a good bond with the new concrete. One or two inches of new concrete should be fine, especially in a space with low, lightweight traffic.

I see no reason for a drain in this area unless excessive leakage or standing water is a potential problem.

If radon mitigation is required, the collection pipes should be installed under the existing slab via cutting trenches and tied into your venting before you pour the new concrete. Again, your radon contractor who can see the space should be able to advise you properly and make all the connections to your existing system.


How to estimate if an old AC is worth replacing?

The EER (energy efficiency ratio) is a lovely mashup of units (BTU/h)/Watts (ie, 12500/1275 in the questioned case) that will tell you (part of) what you need to know. The rest is up to how much you run it.

It uses 1.275 KWh/h (1275 watts) and that costs you 14.07 cents/hr at 11.04 cents/KWh

Compare to whatever you think you might replace it with - you'd want a higher EER than 9.8, or you could just look at 12500 BTU models and compare watts directly. Less watts costs you less per hour to run - if they are all cooling by the same amount (12500 BTU/hr) then the lowest watts is the most efficient and should have the highest EER as well.

A low-effort search (ie you might find better) shows a current EER of 11.3 on one similar new unit. If exactly equivalent in BTU/h that would be 1106 watts, or 1.106 KWh/h, or 12.21 cents per hour, or a savings of slightly less than 2 cents per operating hour.

If willing to step away from the window-unit format you may be able to get much better EER in a mini-split type system, but it will likely cost more up front.


My guess is that it stands for Uniform Fire Code Listed and means that all components in the circuit have been tested to conform to the Uniform Fire Code, i.e. NFPA 1.  (I'm extrapolating from a UL or cULus listing meaning that a product has been tested to the appropriate UL standard.)  Since the National Electrical Code is part of the NFPA standards, that would imply that the circuit must meet requirements for a bathroom circuit, i.e. GFCI protection.

They would be called out separately in their literature because UL and the NFPA are separate, independent, organizations.


Bathroom light fixture above sink and ceiling fan/light combo wiring issue

It sounds like you have your supply and a switch leg. The switch leg goes to the switch , normally you connect your hot to the white of the switch leg and Mark that white with black or some other color than green,gray or white. After that the white and black go to the switch. With the switch in the on position the black will now be hot , to connect your light use the black on the switch leg and the white from the hot cable. And of course grounds if available. When you had the white to white and black to black the pop you heard was a bad thing it may have damaged your switch, so if the switch is not working a replacement may be needed.


Note: This may seem silly, as it's just the opposite of what you've already done, but I promise it is not in jest.

Try turning off ALL breakers except for the mystery breaker. It is completely possible that one or more circuits were erroneously "double fed" by this breaker and another.

Alternatively, you could have something not-so-obvious like an exterior light, garage door opener, doorbell that is powered off this circuit.

Lastly, someone could have "dead ended" an unused circuit by simply capping it off where it terminates, but leave the breaker and wiring for future use.


Trying to change a 3 way dimmer switch to a 3 way switch

Traveler wires are two wires. But the wires are interchangeable, and there is no need to distinguish one traveler from the other.

Working in conduit, I typically wire travelers as two wires of the same color.  When you're in a 3-way circuit and you see two yellow wires for instance going to the exact same place, those will be the travelers.

In your case the travelers are probably the two same-color wires on the switch.

When houses are wired in multiconductor cables, you are stuck with the default colors that those cables are manufactured with - black white red.  As such, you can't go by color code (unless you mark the wire with tape, paint or shrinkwrap).  However, an important hint is that the travelers will both run in the same cable, and that will be true at both ends of the wire.

Since your wiring is done with multiconductor cable, and none of your wires are white, and there must be two travelers: they must be red and black, and the black will be the one running in the same cable as the red.


I wouldn't use caulk. It's going to be difficult to get everything in place without inadvertent squeeze out and other minor catastrophes. Get some glazing tape or simply some double-sided high density foam tape in the appropriate size. Ideally it would be slightly narrower than your stops and set to the outside so that you don't see it once the glass is installed.

Run that down your stops, press the glass in place, and you're good to go. I would consider putting it on both sides of a glass actually. This will  reduce the chance of vibration noise even more and also reduce the chance that you'll crack your glass when installing your stops.


IMHO that's much too small in diameter for comfort. Possibly also for safety in that material. The "safe working load" listed is almost certainly not one involving using the rope for supporting people or things above people, where it's typical to derate (or over-size) by a factor of 7 or more.

IMPE a 1 inch/25mm to 1.5 inch/37mm diameter rope is more typical for a "knotted climbing rope" in manila. That may be sold as 3 - 4.5 inch (circumference) rope depending how it's listed for sale.

I'm dubious of sisal for the job as it's somewhat more prickly (the major use I'm familiar with it from is as haybale twine - and that's hard on the hands.)

Plastic or plastic blend ropes will hold up to weather better than natural fibers, but can be damaged by sun over time.


Yes, you shouldn't have too much problem rewiring your lamps.  Replacement parts are readily available at big box hardware stores, and lighting shops.
What you call an "E27" base, we would more often refer to as an "Edison" base.  It is by far the most common light bulb socket in North America.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edison_screw

The E14 is not seen often, the E12 or "Candelabra" base are more typical for smaller applications.

Well with the socket taken care of, you have two more problems:

You will also have to replace plug, with the two parallel blade type.  Table lamps are typically not grounded but should be polarized, with the hot switched to the base, and the neutral on the screw.
Your bulbs should handle 120v @ 60 Hz


How would I wire a thermal circuit breaker and switch together?

The trivial way to do this is to buy an off-the-shelf power strip with a switch and 15A circuit breaker, and plug that into a 15A-or-more GFCI outlet.

If you don't want to replace the existing outlet, you can do what I did: Buy a standard 15A 3-prong power cord, a GFCI, a box with an outlet faceplate, and a strain relief. Knock out an appropriate size hole in the box, install the strain relief, run the power cord through that into the box, wire the power cord to the GFCI (with ground to the box as well as to the GFCI), close the patient. Bingo, portable GFCI that can be plugged into any 3-prong outlet.

Or you can look for a power strip that includes its own GFCI. Some do exist.

Yes, you can wire this up from scratch. But if you have to ask how to do so, it's safer AND not significantly more expensive to just plug together parts that are already UL-certified.

.....

Having said all that, the answer is that there are several possible arrangements that would work but the one I'd set up for you would probably be:

Hot from wall to switch, other side of switch to breaker, other side or breaker to GFCI Hot In.

GFCI Controlled Hot Out to hot of other outlets. NOTE THAT THIS IS A DIFFERENT CONNECTION FROM GFCI HOT IN. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY. DO NOT GET THIS WRONG.

Neutral from wall to GFCI Neutral In.

GFCI Controlled Neutral Out to neutral of other outlets. NOTE THAT THIS IS A DIFFERENT CONNECTION FROM GFCI NEUTRAL IN. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY. DO NOT GET THIS WRONG.

Ground from wall to ground connections of GFCI and all other outlets.

If the reasons for doing it this way aren't obvious, STOP and get someone more experienced to work with you.


Can my water heater's relief valve discharge line and drain pan line merge into a common pipe?

The answer is no. This configuration would most likely fail multiple code requirements.

Explanation

You do not mention the diameter of the current discharge pipe, the distance that it runs, how many changes in directions there are, and where it terminates, so I cannot provide a complete answer. However, I can confirm that it would be against code to directly connect the two pipes together due to the resulting cross-connection between a potable system and a drainage system.

The pipe that drains the pan is considered part of a drainage system (either sanitary or storm, depending on what it connects to or where it terminates). The T&P relief valve’s discharge pipe is connected directly to the potable system and as such is
considered as part of the potable system. It is against code to directly connect these two systems as the resulting cross-connection allows for the potential of the potable system becoming contaminated.

In addition, there are pipe diameter requirements to be considered.

In a typical installation, the relief valve’s discharge pipe terminates indirectly above the drain pan’s drain opening with an air break that prevents the two systems from being cross-connected. The requirement for a drain pan’s drain pipe is that it be 2 times that of the relief valve’s discharge pipe diameter.

I assume that the diameter of your T&P relief valve’s discharge pipe is the same size as that of the T&P valve’s outlet connection, therefore this pipe cannot be used as the drain pan’s drain pipe, unless you increase the size of it.

Suggestions

You could repipe the drain line to outside in a larger diameter and install the drain pan and T&P discharge pipe as outlined in the below code requirements. (Note that if your drain is to discharge outside above grade, that in addition to it being located in a safe place to prevent anyone from being burned, you should also put some sort of screen protection on the end of the pipe as this pipe will create a direct opening into your home via the drain pan’s opening)
If the water heater is located in an accessible location, the combination of periodical visual inspections and turning off the tank and shutting off the water supply when being away on vacation, will prevent most issues with water damage from a failed tank. In addition, replacing the anode rod as outlined in the tank’s literature will prolong the life of the tank.
If you are really concerned about water damage from a leaking tank, there are many leak detection systems that when sensing a leak can shut off the water supply.

Code Requirements (Based on the Canadian Plumbing Code)

Relief Valves

Every hot water heater mush have a pressure relief valve and a temperature relief valve. The two can be combined in one device so long as it meets the requirements for both individual valves:

operates when the pressure inside the tank reaches the rated pressure of the tank
located so that the pressure in the tank cannot exceed the pressure in the tank by 35 kPa (5 PSI)
located within the top 150mm (6”) of the tank
is designed to open and discharge sufficient water from the tank to keep the temperature of the water inside the tank from exceeding 99°C (210°F)

Relief Valve Discharge Pipe

The requirements of the relief valve discharge pipe are that is must:

be of a size at least equal to the size of the outlet of the valve
be installed ridged
be piped so that it is sloped away from the valve
terminate with an indirect connection above a floor drain, sump, or other safe location
have an air break not smaller than the diameter of the discharge pipe but with a minimum of 25mm (1”) or a maximum of 300mm (12”)
have no threads at its outlet
be capable of operating at a temperature of not less than 99°C (210°F)
have no shut-off valves installed on it

In addition, if the relief discharge pipe is longer than 2m (6’ 6”) or if more than two 90° elbows are used, the valve manufacture’s installation instruction must be followed to ensure that the piping does not restrict the valve’s discharge capacity.

Drain Pan Requirements

A drain pan is required when a hot water tank is located in a ceiling or roof space, or over a floor of wood construction. The requirements of the pan are:

be not less than 50 mm (2”) larger than the tank
have walls not less than 25mm (1”) high
be drained by a pipe two sizes larger than the relief valve discharge pipe
have a drain that is located directly under the relief valve discharge pipe that drain directly to a floor drain or other accessible location

Typical Hot Water Tank, Relive Valve, and Drain Pan Configuration:

           ___
   _______|_  |
  |         | |
  |         | | <— T&P Discharge Line
  |   HWT   | |
  |         | |
  |         | |
  |_________|     <— Air Break (end of pipe to top of pan wall)
|_______________| <— Drain Pan
             |  ____________ <— Drain to Sanitary or Storm System
             |_|

Note: if the drain pan’s drain connects to a sanitary system, a p-trap (as shown) is required. In addition, the p-trap would require a trap primer.


Wow, that is one of the most complicated structural “systems” I’ve ever seen. It’s not clear to me exactly which wall you want to remove.

It does appear that the diagonal supports were installed to rest on several ceiling joists in order to help distribute the roof load. Clearly, the ceiling joists were not originally intended to support the roof...they are too small. In addition, the ceiling supports do not align with the roof supports (joists).

The diagonal supports seem to have been randomly placed and the vertical supports are not installed in any pattern or system either.

I’d recommend that you hire an architect or a structural engineer, but that could be expensive because they’ll need to spend some time tracking down the roof loads and determining how they are transferred to the footings.

You could check under the wall that you want to remove and see if there is a footing under the wall (or close to the wall).  If there is, it could indicate the wall is a bearing wall.

If it is a bearing wall, you can still remove it...you’ll just need to add a header and support posts.


Potential Home Grounding Issue - Illinois

Turn off all the breakers, try them one at a time and see when the voltage returns, this should help to locate the problem area. Once you have the area found, turn on all the breakers, except  the breaker to that area, and check it again. Now with the problem breaker/breakers off, go through the devices and check if any have a bad wire. I would start with the switches that controls the outside light.


The stuff cures at about 1mm per day. Wait until it has cured all the way through before cutting into it.


What kind of conduit should I use with UF-B to reduce depth of burial?

I'd use conduit with THHNs in it and save the UF for wiring the office-shed
One thing most people don't realize about UF is that it can be used as a substitute for NM with the same makeup; the NEC permits this in NEC 340.10 point 4, and while it's usually uneconomical, it's a good way to use up spare lengths of UF.  This is because while it's legal to use UF in conduit, it's a waste of conduit fill compared to using individual wires, and also much harder to pull through the conduit compared to individual THHN conductors.
I'd use a 1.5" and a 1" PVC conduit at 18" to top of conduit (20-24" deep trench) in your situation; if you don't need anything else, you can use the 1" conduit for 3 (1 circuit) or 4 (1 MWBC = 2 circuits) 12AWG THHNs to a 60A non-fusible AC disconnect box on the outside of the office-shed.  You can then run your branch circuit(s) from that box, and just provision a 15A feeder breaker at the panel you're running this from, with the 1.5" conduit left as a spare for future provisions of more power, or fiber Ethernet to the shed for that matter.
If trenching that is out of reach, you could use rigid or intermediate metallic conduit in the same sizes in an 8-9" deep trench, but keep in mind that that conduit is going to pose an obstacle to landscapers and others going digging in the yard in a way a 24" deep PVC conduit won't.  You'll also need to use metal (RMC) expansion fittings in the riser at each end instead of the much cheaper PVC versions, in addition to the conduit being considerably costlier than PVC, and occasionally requiring either compression (threadless) couplings or a threading machine.
So, it's either more work trenching, or more work hauling, cutting, and threading conduit, with the latter creating a hidden annoyance for landscapers as well.  Pick your poison.


Attaching surface mount deck railing posts directly above a 5 1/8" Rim joist

I’m not an expert and likewise did not find any direct documentation on the issue of attaching surface mount posts to a laminated beam but I did find the following information that might help you make a knowledgeable decision.

The following Fine Homebuilding video references surface mounted guard posts. The main issue appears to be that the post as desired will not have any blocking perpendicular to the Rim joist.  It would also be difficult to mount a reinforcing plate underneath.   https://youtu.be/lTRquLcL6Jo?t=540

About the beam itself – is it balanced or unbalanced and is the axis orientation vertical or horizontal?  How the beam is constructed will impact how it reacts to shear forces. I found the following guide useful:  https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code/bsc.ca.gov/sibr/org.apawood.X440.pdf

Also, how wide is the post mounting plate? You will need to make sure that the screws are a minimum distance away from the edges of the board. I found the following document helpful in looking at the calculations needed. https://www.engineeringexpress.com/wiki/lag-bolts-in-wood/

Finally, this document mentions the issues with drilling holes vertically through laminated beams and it's corresponding impact on the ability of the beam to carry a load. It may be something to review. https://www.anthonyforest.com/assets/pdf/apa/glulam/Tech_Note_Field_Notching.pdf

I have a feeling that it will all come down to whether not not the code inspector believes that the guard rail post will handle the required 200 pound static load without an issue. Without any direct documentation, I'd suggest that you verify this yourself using a test version before construction being sure to test all 4 conditions: Mid-span of the laminated beam, mid-span of the 2-bys and testing the corner connections in both directions.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.


How to install a flush ceiling light with a poorly placed hole

IMHO, (but that's opinion, and everybody has one...) the quick and easy fix for this half-fast (not up to code) job is to mount a round box in the hole and use a fixture or trim ring that hides the protruding box. And then look at the rest of the wiring, becasue it's probably not the only code violation.

Otherwise, for a better fix, patch the hole and put a new hole in a better place, then have fun matching the ceiling texture job - not that it's impossible, just that it's one of those things that's out of most people's comfort zone, but really you should actually have fun with it. Play with mud until you can make that sort of pattern and have at it. Don't be afraid to make a big hole to work in - if you're patching 4 inches of textured drywall, 4 square feet is barely a blip more effort, and it gives you the opportunity to use "new work" rather than "old work" fixtures/boxes.


How to limit bathroom shower water usage by time?

They make a pretty cool device that installs on the shower arm upstream of the shower head. It's a battery operated valve that cuts the water flow back (to like 1/3 flow) after a pre-programmed time. It doesn't shut off, it cuts the flow back enough to make for a very unsatisfactory shower experience but provides enough flow for her to finish rinsing off. It will basically force her to leave the shower.

The time duration can only be adjusted by applying a special magnet from the outside, so no one but you can adjust the activation time. it is not cheap (around $90 US) but the reviews are positive. I don't normally endorse, and I do not own one, but I have never seen another product like this: showermanager


Does generator power cord gauge have to be the same as the power inlets gauge?

9500 watts is about 40 AMPS at 240v. 8 gauge is good for 40 amps even in a cable. You can always use wires that are larger than needed, but not less.  Think thru this...most of the wiring in your house is probably 14 ga, or 12 ga. yet you are seldom using anywhere near that much on each circuit.  Same applies to your generator connection.   You might be slightly undersized for a larger generator, but for what you have now, you should be fine.


In my state bathroom exhaust fans are required to stay on 15 minutes after the lights go off for this reason.
Actually the time allows the excess humidity in the bath to be removed and the dry air blowing over the fan and duct help to dry it out also.
We don’t hear about it often on this site but prior to the 15 minute requirement new homes we built did have some of the same issues.
Increasing the home ventilation or make up air and the 15 minute times really has eliminated this issue I haven’t received a call back for this in years.
Add a fan timer to your switch and it will probably eliminate the issue since it sounds like you have good air flow.


Identify which two wires are the messengers and which is the common.

You would rely on markings on the old dimmer switch for that.

You can also look in the back of the box to see how the wires group in conduit or cable: if two are in one cable and the third is not, the two together are the messengers.

Join one messenger and the common.

If the other switch(es) now turn on in a position you don't like, use the other messenger.

Cap off the unused messenger.

It will be hot whenever the light is off!!!


Should I leave the fan switch on my thermostat set to fan rather than auto?

Running the air handler all the time is generally going to cost you some significant electricity. Since either is fine, try it both ways and see what you think, in your house; houses do vary.


Is it safe to replace a GFCI breaker with an arc fault breaker?

GFCI are still needed because ACFI do not provide the same level of ground-fault protection as GFCI. In the United States, the GFCI is triggered at 4-6 mA of current-imbalance. The trip-limit for AFCI devices is a current-imbalance of 30-50 mA. So AFCI devices do not provide the same level of ground-fault protection as GFCI devices. You may want to use both an AFCI and a GFCI on your circuit.

In addition to ground faults, AFCI devices do also detect arcs. GFCI and AFCI are designed to detect different faults from eachother.

GFCIs are still needed near sources of water (like the kitchen and bathroom), in unfinished basements, and outdoors (among other locations) (and even if the circuit uses an AFCI breaker).


When should an asphalt shingle roof be replaced?

Assuming a shingle roof. When to replace:

It is leaking and can't be easily repaired.
It looks bad. You don't like the looks, or the city is threatening to fine you for code violations.
You want a better roof. Better hurricane resistance in my case.
An unbiased expert says it should be replaced.

The climate affects the expected life--heat is hard on shingle roofs. Are you comparing the lifespan to other shingle roofs in your area? That is a better indication than opinions from people around the world.