Why does the outlet short out when I turn on the garbage disposal?

The receptacle that the disposal is plugged into is fed from the Load side of the GFCI receptacle, thereby providing ground fault protection to the receptacle. There is a ground fault somewhere between the GFCI and the disposal, which is causing the GFCI to do it's job and trip.

You'll have to locate the fault, and fix it. If you don't have (or know how to use) a multimeter, you'll want to contact an Electrician.  If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, you can narrow down where the fault is by checking continuity between hot and ground.

Start by turning off the breaker, and insuring power is off in the area you'll be working. Unplug the disposal and do a continuity test between the hot blade (smaller blade) on the plug, and the ground pin (long roundish pin).  If the test shows there is not fault in the disposal, move up the circuit to the next device (receptacle) and test again (don't plug the disposal back in). If you still haven't found the fault, continue working your way up the circuit (the switch next) until you reach the GFCI. If you still haven't found the fault, try replacing the GFCI receptacle (making sure to hook it back up the same way).

If you still cannot resolve the issue, it's probably best to call in an Electrician (since they'll have cooler gadgets to troubleshoot the circuit). I would focus most of my attention on the disposal and the switch, since those tend to be the usual culprits.


Check the load and line connections on gfci. If not wired correctly you may still get power at the gfci but power will not be carried on to the other outlet/switches. There should be 2 cables in the box. The one providing power is your "line" the other is "load".


Is it worthwhile to replace evaporator coil?

I would replace a 15 year evap coil. Since the efficiency of the condenser/compressor has changed (more efficient), you also need to match it with the proper evap coil and metering device (TXV).


Is there enough time to pour 40 sqf 4" slab with 60lb bags of premixed concrete if working alone? Any hints?

The answer depends on your level of physical ability and ambition, and is therefore mostly subjective. There are plenty of folks who could do it. I wouldn't try it myself at my age and level of fitness. Concrete is really freaking heavy. I would want some additional labor on hand.

I attempted to finish a sidewalk and garage apron on my own when my help had to leave, and there's little as nerve-wracking as finding oneself racing the clock with setting concrete. You never end up with a good finish in those cases, and if you try something foolish like watering the mix you'll end up with a weak surface prone to flaking and disintegration.

My $.02: Play it safe and have someone around to help you mix and move the mud.


Fixing a bathroom vent exhaust going only into attic

The vent should not be placed directly under the eave.  The external cover of the vent when mounted on the wall protects the vent from rain.
Standard galvanized duct piping is used.  Yes, it is the same as the vent duct used for dryer.  You would just use the same ducting type that is vested to the attic.
Exact placement on the exterior wall is also depend on where you route the duct in your attic.
1. Will it block storage space
2. How will you suspend it
3. On the rafters.
This is a picture of vents on the exterior wall.  The vent ducts are round, the cover is a rectangle cap


How to cool a server closet with window?

Question for you to ponder before spending any money:
Do you live in the arctic? Almost certainly you do not, since you just said "you're worried about wasting AC air outside" if you open the closet door.

So with the postulation above, why do you think you can cool the closet with outside air? You cannot. I'd take the stance that there will be many days that the outside air is greater or equal to the 90 degrees you comment on.

Now in the winter time, how will you cool the closet?

The simple answer to your post if you are going to spend the money is to have a window fan, two way unit, or at least one "blower" unit setup, and then you ensure you run some 6" flex tubing from the outlet of the machines to the window, with the blower fan in the piping, anywhere.

Now this said, depending on the house you have, and the mod you are willing to do, you can vent the air from the server into the attic, or into the crawl space, but you still need a way for a cooler source of air to come back into the closet space. Without an equalized pressure differential, no amount of blowing is going to help you, unless you recirculate already hot air.

So..... Buy an AC? Open the window in the winter?
It's generally best to not close off "appliances" that generate heat, in a closed space. Thus, you need to bring cool air in from somewhere, and where it comes from has to be controlled. The outside is not going to suffice for each day of the week and all seasons.


If it's outside, I'd say it's more than likely some kind of varnish. I think you'd need a "chemical stripper" (there are "green" ones these days: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EZ-Strip-32-oz-Paint-and-Varnish-Stripper-ESA-700/205725398).

The equation is basically:

Remove shellac with alcohol
Remove lacquer with lacquer thinner
Remove everything else with stripper


how do i connect a plastic shower drain to my old metal sewer

ABS male adapter + teflon tape or joint compound.


Will #2 copper THHN be sufficient cable to run to the subpanel?

A few notes first
As you probably know, North American power is split-phase - it is 240V with neutral in the middle, giving 2 opposite poles or legs of 120V.  So if this has a 50A breaker, that means you have 120V @ 50A on one leg, and 120V @ 50A on the other leg.
So it's 50A worth of 240V... but 100A worth of 120V.
By the way, I assume you have one breaker which is double the normal width of a breaker.  It looks a lot like 2 breakers whose handles are tied, but it is in fact one breaker, and it has an internal "common trip" mechanism which is required for this application. So it must be 1 breaker, not 2 sandwiched.
Voltage drop and wire selection
The max you're allowed to plan to use is 80% of breaker trip.  So with a 50A breaker you could only plan to use 40A.  Your needs are much lower than that, given that, after all, we're talking two legs of 120V @ 40A each.    So we'll compute on 40A.
Calculating for 40A @ 240V, using #6 copper wire gives 2.21% voltage drop.  #4 aluminum wire gives 2.29% voltage drop.  Both are extremely acceptable; even the wire salesman considers these really good numbers.
Honestly, I don't normally even bother doing the calculations until it's farther than 180 feet.
Pro electricians wiring their own houses would use aluminum. There is some scary talk about aluminum out there, but it applied to a mistake in the 1960s trying to downscale power-line alloy aluminum for small circuit use (15-20A) relating to how the wire was landed on lugs (screw terminals and backstabs).  Aluminum terminations have to be managed more carefully, but doing that safely is super easy with large feeder like this.  Even 1960s-era aluminum feeder is considered safe; the new stuff is awesome.
Anyway, the panel lugs themselves are aluminum, because aluminum lugs are the universal donor - they play well with both copper and aluminum wire.  (that gives a hint as to the source of the above problem).
#2 copper would be insane overkill.  Do not buy #2 copper.  If you already have a 450' coil of #2 copper sitting around, sell it on eBay and use some of the profits to buy all the wire you'd need. Pocket the rest.
The #4 aluminum I recommend is about 1/7 the cost of #2 copper, e.g. the aluminum is $150 US vs $1000+.
If you really want to spend that much on wire, #2 copper is a bad choice because you are splitting the switch. It's far too big for your "few outlets" and far too small to carry the full 200A service from garage to house.  If you ever reversed flow so the service came into the garage, you'd have to replace all that #2.
If your aim is to put in "the ultimate" wire once, and never trench again, well we recommend conduit for the "never trench again" part... but that aside, I would lay 250 kcmil aluminum.  It's good for 225A service, will handle 200A without worry for voltage drop issues, and it's still much less than #2 copper.


That is not an "inside corner" so it looks to be allowed.

A switch at the point of the red dot seems to make the most sense and would be, in my opinion, where someone would "look" for it in the dark, etc.


Can an addition be attached to a post and pillar foundation

Yes - drill more holes, set more posts, expand away.


When should I replace a circular saw blade?

You should replace your blade when its dull. Ways to tell its dull:

it starts binding
it tears/chips the substance more than usual
it burns the wood
just a pain to use = a sharp blade should let you push the saw forward with minimum effort. If you find yourself forcing the saw forward (not ideal from a safety perspective), change the blade.


after sealing the chimney, fireplace still not insulated

If this is a "Through the wall" fireplace (exposed brick on the exterior wall, which I think is what you are describing) then yes, it conducts heat very efficiently out of your house. Insulation and stucco over the exterior brick would probably be the most effective solution other than removing it if you don't use it.


How necessary is it to put sealer on a painted dresser?

A sealer shouldn't be necessary unless you like the look better.

If you do decide to try a sealer, you need to select one that is compatible with the paint that you used.

It's always a good idea to try out your planned finishing steps on scrap.  You can try several variations and decide what looks best.


Part of house has very low power electricity out of no where

You (probably) have a bad connection.
This is dangerous - that connection will be heating up, and hot connections can start fires.
At a guess, you might be best served by just calling a pro, since it sounds like you are somewhat unfamilar with electrical work, but if you want to try checking it yourself, turn the affected circuit off at the breaker panel, and check every device on it, starting from the breaker panel and working away from it.
You'll be checking to see that all wire nuts and connection screws are tight, on both the hot and neutral wires.
If you have any devices which use "backstabs" (the screwless "poke a wire in the back" connections) just assume that any of those could be your problem, remove them from the backstab, and connect to the screw on the device corresponding to the backstab you remove the wire from. Screws are a much more reliable means of connection wires to devices.
Depending how long it's been going on, and how severe the problem is, you may find obvious signs of overheating (discolored wire insulation, melted or charred plastic) or you may not.
If your wires (the actual metal part) appear to be silver-gray rather than pinkish or brownish metal, you may have a bigger issue from a house of a particular era - aluminum rather than copper wiring.


How do I renovate 45 year old aluminum wiring for a new outlet for a new cooktop and range?

I would use metal boxes. Much more sturdy and not very much different in cost in the grand scheme of things.

You mention that aluminum wire was used to the stove. Was that aluminum wire fed all the way back from the main power panel? If so then you'll likely have an electrical box with a receptacle mounted to it that connects to the AL wire. Make sure to purchase a socket assembly specifically designed for deployment with AL wire. (That is of course unless you will be replacing the feed wire back to the panel with copper).


What could cause a "smelly sock" smell seeping into our living room from the crawlspace?

Access the crawlspace and inspect it with a bright light. Assess for damp areas indicative of water penetration from exterior or from leaky pipe(s). Moisture = mildew/mold which can smell. Use coveralls and a dust mask. Look for any dead critters that could be causing this.

Certain plants and trees drop leaves and stuff that smell (eucalyptus, for example) if left sitting to get damp, ensure accumulated plant matter and debris are raked away from your home.

Whatever issue is found, fix it. Damp nasty soil can often be treated with hydrated lime powder to remove and prevent future odors.


How can I reduce static electricity in my office?

You can buy an outlet tester to check whether ground is properly wired (in that outlet).

If you're being zapped by a whiteboard hanging on a wall, then most likely it is static electricity generated when you walk across the floor. You didn't specify but I'm guessing the floor is a plastic laminate?

You could put down anti-static floor mats. For example under each desk. This would keep you from building up charge as you move around. Running mats across the entire floor may prove cost prohibitive.


If they are plugging with debris (scale, etc. from inside the supply pipes), you prevent it by intercepting that debris with a filter when the water first enters your house, and you fix it (in most cases) by removing the aerators (which have a fine mesh screen) and flushing both the faucets (by running them without the aerators until the water runs clear) and the aerators themselves (by running water backwards through them until clean.)

If larger debris is plugging the valve itself before the aerator, it's a larger job to fix.


Shock treating a home, or rooms with ozone

Ozone is highly toxic and dangerous. It's pretty much comparable to trying to clean your home with a flamethrower. Either the flame is candle-sized, then it doesn't do anything. Or it's big enough to kill the fungus in the walls, your dog, your wife and ultimately the walls themselves if you let it run for too long.

Laser printers have problem with ozone emissions, and it's tightly regulated to keep ozone down to a minimum. Ozone is good only in stratosphere, where it can't harm living organisms like humans.

Your real problem is the damp basement. Fix the root problem and other will disappear on their own. Ripping the carpets won't do anything in the long run. Renovating a house without waterproofing the basement is like perfuming a corpse - it'll seem nice for a moment, but the stench will return sooner or later.

Fix the water problem or get rid of the house. It's unsafe to live in mold-infested building.


Shop Electrical - MWBC Serving 240V and 120V Outlets

This is fine, provided you obey a few rules

While a MWBC serving a mix of 120V and 240V receptacles certainly may look strange to the uninitiated, or those who interact with electrical systems in a professional capacity yet are not trained to the full panoply of NEC requirements, this setup is Code-legal in the 2017 NEC, provided the breaker protecting it provides common trip functionality, which all full-width two-pole breakers do these days.  This is laid out in NEC 210.4(C) Exception 2:

  (C) Line-to-Neutral Loads. Multiwire branch circuits shall
  supply only line-to-neutral loads.

  Exception No. 1: A multiwire branch circuit that supplies only one
  utilization equipment.

  Exception No. 2: Where all ungrounded conductors of the multiwire
  branch circuit are opened simultaneously by the branch-circuit overcurrent device.

With the upgraded GFCI requirements in the 2020 NEC, this setup requires a two-pole GFCI breaker instead; however, that lets you split the 120V receptacle here to balance the load better, and means that all receptacles on the circuit are GFCI protected, which is also a plus.

However, despite the above, there are a few caveats set not by the NEC itself, but by the limitations of available hardware.  First and foremost is that two-pole dual function breakers (that provide both arc-fault and ground-fault protection) just aren't made, so if you were doing this in a location where AFCI was required, you'd need to have a two-pole GFCI breaker in the distribution panel for this circuit feeding an auxiliary distribution panel with a two-pole AFCI breaker in it.  (Of course, if you're feeding more than one circuit of these, you can use a bigger GFCI breaker to feed a subpanel with multiple AFCI breakers in it.)  Also, some more modern AFCIs (GE MOD 3 CAFCI breakers, most notably) are incapable of providing common trip overcurrent protection to a multiwire branch circuit due to design tradeoffs they made in order to ease installation in shared-neutral situations generally.  This isn't an issue if a single MWBC is used as the two-pole GFCI breaker provides common trip overcurrent protection for the circuit at the correct breaker rating, but is a showstopper in a multi-MWBC setup, as the GFCI breaker gets enlarged (up to 50 or even 60A) in order to feed the loads from the additional circuits.

Other than that, you'll need to treat the downstream wiring with the same cautions that are required for any other MWBC: namely, the hots and neutral for this circuit need to be grouped in the panel as per NEC 210.4(D) and 200.4(B) (a ziptie will do) and the neutral must be pigtailed to the 120V receptacles so that removing a receptacle doesn't leave the neutral floating downstream, as per NEC 300.13(B).  Last but not least, in your situation, while most of the primary tools can be on a single MWBC, you'll want dedicated circuits for stuff that is running at the same time that a tool is (most notably, the dust collector).


How can I put a drain hose through a basement wall or window?

Purely anecdotal, and I'm not claiming it's necessarily correct: When I put in a permanent "exhaust" for my sump pump, I did so essentially the same way the exhaust for my drier vent had been installed: I found an appropriate spot on the outside wall between the basement ceiling rafters, well above the sill and several feet above ground level. I ran a foot-long drill bit through from inside to outside; that gave me alignment marks. I then came at it from both sides with a Forstner bit, using that alignment-mark hole as the centerpoint. I believe I needed an extension on the bit's shaft to reach deep enough to complete the hole. Ran the pipe (with appropriate mounting brackets) from pump to outside, installed the outside bend and the adapter to a flexible hose to route water away from the house, and air-sealed the hole around the penetration.

As with the dryer exhaust, another alternative would have been to sacrifice a pane of a basement window, replacing it with plywood and running the pipe through a hole in that. I didn't like that solution. (The basement gets little enough natural light as it is.)

Note that a dehumidifier doesn't have to drain to outside. Mine drains into the sewer via a hose to the washer's drain pipe. (Actually, in its current location it drains to the same pump that my boiler's condensate drains to, which moves the water to the washer drain, but it comes out to the same thing.) Using the city drains isn't legal for sump pumps in my area, but it's entirely legitimate for the dehumidifier -- just as if the dehumidifier was filling its own tank which you periodically emptied into a sink.


3-side punched steel channel (strut), image in the post - can't find any equivalents

That stuff is called Unistrut.   Comes in a variety of configurations.   Keep in mind the normal way to attach to it is put special clips with springs that latch into those tucked-in grooves.  They're not just for strength.

When you see stupid pricing on the Internet, that's the "I don't want to sell it" price, or to be more precise, the "I don't want to ship it" price.  They are trolling for noobs who don't know or care what normal prices are, and will pay whatever.  Anything like that - heavy and cheap - should be sourced locally.  If that means you need to skill up on procurement, then definitely do that.  Grainger, lumber yards, local metal supply, electrical supply houses, cast a wide net.


Noise reduction of a hollow core door versus a french (glass panes) door

Look at the STC rating of the door. The higher the number the better the sound proofing. Hollow doors well they work as good as drums and will probably amplify noise. Glass I do not think will be any better (I could be wrong.).
Solid doors are better.

Check this site out for more details.
http://www.trustile.com/technical-information/understanding-stc-ratings


What is the process for power washing and staining a deck?

The first step is to clean the deck.  A very simple and inexpensive method is to wet the deck, spray or scrub on a mixture of 1 cup TSP, 1/2 gal household bleach, and 2 gal water. Scrub it with a course, stiff broom. Then either rinse with a hose or power wash off before it dries completely on the surface. this works as good it not better than expensive deck cleaners. Note: When using a power washer, use a wide spray nozzle. Be careful not to be too aggressive with a power washer as it can damage the wood and leave divots.

Second, let the deck dry completely. This may take a day or two depending on weather conditions.

Third, apply deck stain.  You can use any good oil or modified oil based deck stain. You can choose from transparent, semi transparent or solid.  The most popular for older pressure treated decks is semi or solid.  For cedar or redwoods, transparent or semi is favored. Usually one coat is enough, but on very porous or softer woods, two coats may be required for a good even finish.

Application hint: apply stain with a 3/8" nap roller on a pole. Do three or four boards wide, then over-brush the area with a fairly stiff bristle brush to work the stain into the grain of the wood. You could also use a 1 or 2 gal pump sprayer to get the stain on fast, then over-brush.  A lot faster and easier than using a brush only.

You're done. There is no need to put a sealer over good grade stains. Never put a sealer on before you stain, as it will block the stain from penetrating and adhering to the wood.

Wait 24 hours before using your deck after staining.  Don't stain if there is rain or temps under 50F predicted within 12 to 24 hours.


What's a good way to seal a flat concrete roof?

If you don't have a problem with water pooling any more, the real answer is probably to have a professional roofer look closely at the roof both on the inside and outside. The problem with a lot of roof leaks is that where the water shows up in the house isn't where it comes in. Water has an annoying tendency to run along internal beams and such, then come into the house far away. You can go over any edges with new tar and hope you catch it but in my experience this approach ends up being like playing whack-a-mole, you patch and wait for it to rain, then patch more and wait more, etc.

So I would say if you can do it yourself, look closely at the underside of the roof as well as the outside. If you don't find anything, a professional roofer is probably in order.


How do I handle all the wires for a canless recessed light on 3-way circuit

Don't even try to run the 3-way switch leg through all the lamp boxes.
Bring power into the "main" or more accessible entrance - the one where you would want to put a smart switch.  Then, have a separate /3 cable that bypasses the lamps entirely and goes straight over to the other 3-way switch.
I have no idea why some sites recommend running the travelers through every intermediate light box... but this is very foolish for 2 reasons: #1 box fill, and #2 you would need /4 or /5 cable and they usually recommend using 2 cables instead, and that's a code violation.  (heck you're using 2 cables anyway, why not just have one bypass the lamps altogether?)
Then, from that switch, you send "switched-hot" and "neutral" onward to the lamps, and daisy-chain the lamps in the normal way.
Mark your wires correctly
I recommend sending always-hot to the far switch -- if you do that, you MUST use white for always-hot, and you  MUST re-mark both ends with black tape -- that's Code.  I recommend marking the other 2 wires with yellow tape to designate them as travelers -- that's not Code, but it will make things vastly easier to hook up and troubleshoot later.  (yellow = brass screws on the switches - get it? :)
If you're wiring it with travelers and switched-hot going to the far switch, you are not allowed to use white for switched-hot - Code again.  Use red for switched-hot.  Since you're using white as a non-neutral, you MUST mark it with a hot color - since you have to anyway, I recommend again yellow tape on both travelers.


How does water travel through a modern column radiator

Hot water radiators which are connected together on both the top and bottom have no baffles or plugs. Inside the radiator is one open cave from end to end. The recommended way to pipe a cast iron radiator is hot in at the top and return (cold ), out the bottom. As the water cools in the radiator the water gets more dense and heavier causing the flow to be towards the bottom of the radiator. If you are interested in radiator construction you could buy or find an old radiator and take it apart.


Typically the only thing that will cause the vibration on grinder wheels like yours, are the wheels themselves being out of balance. My suggestion would be to get two new wheels (grinding stones).


How can I install crown cornice molding and trim on rounded outside corners?

You can add a center section at the corner that runs at a 45° angle to either wall. That cuts down on any gap you might have, but makes the installation and cutting a bit more difficult. My house has a few faux pillars that use this technique:

(I know, I know, I haven't gotten around to touch ups after we painted the walls...)

And here's a lookup table for cutting crown molding (source):


What does a surge protector do that a breaker doesn't?

Surge protectors and circuit breakers both cut off power during exceptional conditions, but they have different purposes and react to different events:

Circuit breakers

Circuit breakers have only one job: to prevent the wiring inside your house from catching on fire. That's it, they do nothing else. They don't protect you from shocking yourself, or from lightning, or from your cat chewing through a power cord.

Circuit breakers work by monitoring the current (number of electrons) flowing through the wiring, and cutting off the power if the current is too high for too long (which puts the wiring in your house at risk of overheating). The higher the current, the quicker a breaker will trip: it may be just a split second or it might be hours. The idea is that a transient burst of power (e.g. when your fridge turns on) is not particularly dangerous.

The rating of a breaker depends only on the size and type of wire used in your house (which in turn is based on the expected usage). Typical sizes would be 15 or 20 amps for outlets and standard lighting, and higher, dedicated breakers for high-use appliances like stoves or hot water heaters.

Surge Protectors

Surge protectors have a very different goal: to quickly disconnect equipment from the power supply if there is a power surge. Surge protectors don't monitor the quantity of electricity, but rather it's voltage. An unexpectedly high voltage can force power into appliances beyond their specifications. Typically surge protectors cut off power when the voltage reaches 300V or 400V, which may be indicative of a lightning strike.

Surge protectors also have the job of absorbing energy due to a voltage spike.

Neither surge protectors nor circuit breakers do anything to regular minor fluctuations in voltage like a brownout.

In my opinion the need for surge protectors is somewhat overblown, since harmful power surges are relatively rare and there's no guarantee that a surge protector will be robust enough to prevent damage anyways. But they are convenient if you need extra outlets.

EDIT
@Ecnerwal's answer is correct that technically surge protectors don't disconnect the power, they redirect (or absorb) it. And his answer has much more technical detail about the types and purposes of surge protectors.


Troubleshooting Garage Door Opener (GDO) safety sensors

The receiver unit likely shorted out inside from the flooding -- it might be possible to fix it by cleaning the insides thoroughly to get rid of any contamination that'd be causing the short, but it could also be that parts inside it failed.  We'd need some photos of its innards to make that determination, though...


What are some of your previous owner nightmares you have inherited?

In a house we rented a while back, the previous tenants tried (and failed) to install a dishwasher.  Apparently, they were too cheap to find an adapter to hook up the waste flow from the dishwasher, so they cut a hole in the waste line of the sink on the wrong side of the trap and epoxied a piece of PVC there.  Then they hooked up the waste hose from the dishwasher and let it sit on the floor.

This caused dirty dishwater to flow back into the dishwasher where it sat and stagnated, and if there wasn't enough stagnant water in the hose, sewer gases would leak up through the dishwasher.

They also failed at the wiring, so the metal parts would occasionally carry some voltage and shock you if you're just unlucky enough.  Good times.


It looks like a battery operated (DC) rather than transformer operated (AC) bell. Start off by hooking it up to a 6 V or 9 V supply for a couple of seconds and see what happens.

You don't neeed a series resistor if your supply voltage is right. The coil resistance will limit the current.


Why are there ovens with control panel toward the back?

It's much more difficult for a small child to "play with the controls" and turn the stove elements on in that location.

Having lived with stoves like this for a long time, I've never burned myself reaching for them.


What can I use as an alternative for an underwriter's knot?

If it is a fairly lightweight fixture, you could try a zip tie or two around the cord.  This may not work depending on how hard the cord is and how heavy the lamp is.  But I have used them with light weight pendants and cords that had some flex so the zip tie could squish the sheath a bit to keep it from slipping.

Another option, if there is enough space, is to use a Waterproof Cable Gland they tighten onto the cord and depending on the cord material may not slip.  But there may not be enough space for one.  I seem to recall having a pendant light once that had something like this built into it to allow the height to be adjusted.


Installed new water heater yesterday, today there is water in the catch pan

Possibly the tank leaks.

But it is far more likely that one of the through-hole connections is loose.  Check those before blaming the manufacturer:

Inlet (cold supply)
Outlet (hot output)
cleanout drain
heating unit

Well, I suppose if the heating unit is causing the leak, blame the manufacturer.

The top connections are easily checked by stuffing a paper towel or rag and see if they sop up anything.


What kind of light can I install in a small, low-ceiling coat closet?

You could try something like a Philips SpotOn.  LED light, batteries-operated, motion-sensor-activated. Ideal for small, dark closets and cabinets.


What type of quick disconnects for 18ga to 12ga low voltage wire connections?

I did a search for waterproof wire connectors. Get one that has 2 wires and is a screw-type connector with a good rubber or silicone seal. And make sure the connector fits your size wire.

When in doubt, if there is space where the wire enters the connector, seal with 100% silicone.

Source: I have solar panels that power a water pump outside and I use these light duty connectors which work fine. But I also put the connectors on a brick, off the ground, so they won't get submerged during a heavy rain.

But these connectors were tricky to put wire into and assemble. I'd use different connectors next time.

You want IP65 or higher rated connectors, IP68 preferred.


Sheathing layout on 14' wall. Efficient material use

Try using the 4x8 panels in a horizonal manner. This means that three horizontal runs gets you up to 12 feet. Then another panel cut down the center to get two 2x8 panels, one of which can finish off the first 14' tall section. The second half of that split panel gets used in the next horizontal stack of panels.
Assembling in this horizontal manner also greatly increases the chance that the remainder that you cut off the last panel stack at the first corner can be used as a starter stack as you go around the corner (with some additional trimming of course).


Wire size. 125 feet underground to 100 amp sub panel

At 125’ 4 awg copper would provide 1.79% voltage drop using 4 gauge wire would allow for 70 amp breaker in your main panel. Since this is detached you will want a ground rod also. To save on wire cost you could use #2 aluminum and still have 70a breaker at the main.

If you would like to play with wire sizes google southwire voltage drop calculator, that’s what I use the only part that’s not obvious is the box that asks for parallel sets put 1 it will give you the wire size and voltage drop info, it’s a handy tool.


electricity no power in 3 outlets located in my living room

It is most likely a bad connection in a receptacle somewhere in the circuit. The problem is almost certainly in the first dead receptacle or the last working one if the circuit is wired in a typical modern fashion (wired one to the next).

I have no idea what you mean by "i use a meter and it reads red to the left and yellow far right?", but you need to check for voltage to the circuit neutral. It is also possible for the hot (live) side to be connected, but the neutral to be open, which will give you a live reading but the circuit itself will still show as dead.


What kind of blow torch to use for a stuck bolt

First. I would ensure that you are using a 4-way Tire Iron. It makes you apply equal pressure to the bolt and you will be amazed at the different. In fact, if you have not tried this. Then i would not worry about the heat source for now.

In terms of the blow torch. you need anything that can throw enough heat to make the bolt almost red hot (note I say almost)

A butane torch will be totally fine. Just watch out, the hot nut will be a little easier to snap when hot.


How can I achieve a straight ridge line when taping a vaulted ceiling?

There's one key to remember when doing ceiling ridges and other obtuse angles: The planes of the ceiling determine the position of the corner line.
So, is your ceiling flat? If you run a straightedge across the small gap at the ridge to the other plane all along the ridge, does it draw a reasonably straight line? If so, you're golden. If not, you have some thinking to do, because the outcome will necessarily be a compromise. You can pull down some drywall and shim it, or you can carry on and hope you can fix it with mud.
To answer your specific question, you should be able to work one section at a time, abutting the tape for each section.
Here's how I'd approach it.

Prefill. Hangers rarely get those tricky ridges tightly closed, so you need to create a base for your tape. Skim the planes to fill the ridge gap from one side, and let that dry. Then do the other.
Once you have a naturally-positioned line, pre-fold your tape and lay it in. Work one side and then the other, just like for prefill.
Once that's all done and dry, see what you see. Look at it from one end, and look at it from all critical areas of the room. How does it look?
Make any adjustments. If you see a wiggle, fill the depression and taper it out. Use your widest knife or a skimming blade, pulling down from the ridge. Work the mud up slowly so you don't have to carve it back down by sanding.

I'm not a pro taper, but I've mud-dled my way through many jobs and have seen countless jobs done. That's the gist of it. If it looks good from the floor, it's good.


What kind of jacks are used for lifting of framing in various situations?

Could you support it up the same way you support a porch?

You'd want to get past that sidewalk, the base has to be absolutely secure where it sets.


How should I prepare a 5 year old deck to be stained for the first time

Sanding would certainly be effective (you would need to at least rinse the deck after sanding), but sanding may not be necessary. If the wood is sound and smooth you may be able to use one of a large variety of deck cleaning products. The best bet would be to choose the stain first, then follow the prep directions recommended by the stain manufacturer.


Why does my painted wooden post have brush lines?

That you have never seen brush lines before you have been very lucky.
All of your ideas can affect how the paint goes on, cheap brushes, cheap paint are big ones but, the main reason I see for excessive lines is over working the paint so it won’t flow.
when I do cabinets I don’t even try a brush but spray the paint and have used additives like floetrol a paint additive when I want glass smooth finishes.
Sanding with a really light sandpaper will take the shine off, if I am putting a second coat on doors to get that perfect finish I will use 600 or finer paper wet to buff the door prior to the second coat if it is needed. I normally do this with clear varnish several times to get a real depth to the work, but not often on paints.
You could sand the high ridges and reapply but make sure to over work the paint I see people put paint down spread it out then come back in a minute or 2 and run the brush over it again, this is when the brush marks stay or because of what I was taught is over working the paint.


I'm not sure there's an answer to this, other than installing a slightly larger drain kit, or one that isn't so convex. Perhaps after cleaning it a few times with a scotch brite pad it will have less surface tension.


High velocity filters as it applies to Trane/American Standard filters are the black plastic filters that come with the furnace.  They are designed to have very little resistance and can fit in the bottom of the furnace.  The problem is they don"t filter that much.  The common problem that virtually all modern furnaces have is that they make the furnaces so small that they can not fit a proper size filter in the furnace itself.  A 3 ton air conditioner for instance, requires 1200 cubic feet of air per minute to operate properly.  Assuming a relatively good MERV 10 filter, the filter would need to be at least 20" X 30" X 1" or 14" X 25" X 2".  Those are not going to fit in many furnaces.  The installer would have to install an additional filter rack to fit these filters (which I would recommend)if you want proper air flow and good filtration.  In order to have as much air flow in the limited space available the manufacturers specify high velocity filters that don't filter very well but it is better than starving the furnace for air.  A dirty high velocity filter will still flow more air than a brand new high MERV filter.


fire extinguisher selection & sizing for home use

Unless you have a really clear idea what to do with one, leave the fire axes to the folks who do know what they are doing with one.

When in doubt, get out. Stuff can be replaced. Dead people can't. Killing yourself by trying to fight a fire is bad enough - if you manage to kill firefighters who go in looking for you, it's worse. If it's small and you can apply an extinguisher without undue risk to yourself, only then try putting it out. Remember that most people are not "burned to death" in a fire - most are asphyxiated.

I shade a bit larger (5 lb., or 2A, 10BC) on what I think is an OK minimum than @mjohns615, but otherwise agree, pretty much. ABC dry chemical is safe to use on any home fire, so you don't have to figure out which extinguisher to grab when you are probably a bit panicky and time is of the essence. I'd rather have more than I need than less, so long as it's not to the point of absurdity. I think the one in the garage/shop is a 10 lb.

The US A/B/C ratings are for a "size of fire that can be put out" for each of the "types" (A being paper/wood, B being oils/fats/grease, C being electrical) and the B/C rating is nearly always 5x higher than the A rating for dry chemical, since dry combustibles have embers which the other two types of fire don't, so they are prone to relighting themselves.

While terribly old fashioned, if you can make space in your life for it, the bucket of sand can be quite effective, and the fire blanket can also. In the kitchen, a box of baking soda and/or salt can also be useful (as is the lid of the pan for a grease fire, if it's handy and you act quickly.) There are also "class K" extinguishers specifically for kitchen grease fires (what we'd ordinarily consider class B) but that's more of a commercial kitchen application than most home kitchens.

Once you have extinguishers, you need to keep an eye on them - most have a gauge to indicate if there's a leak, and if there is a leak, they need to be serviced (mostly for the initially-more-expensive extinguishers) or replaced (most cheap extinguishers.) Likewise, if the extinguisher is used at all, it needs service or replacement (the valves don't seal once powder has gone through them - also the contents are not all there.) You can do the inpection yourself (most homeowners) or you can hire a company (most businesses) to do annual inspections and servicing as needed. If you have a serviceable extinguisher, have it serviced (when needed) by a specialist company.


Can I tape cement board with mastic instead of mortar?

It doesn't matter.
Waterproofing is behind tape example:

Here you have your waterproofing behind the cement board - old school method.   I would always use thinset because it is easier.  Get a bucket of thinset going and water it down bigtime.
Tape and put just a slight slight layer right in the crack.   You should definitely be able to see tape, but nothing behind tape.
Let sit for 20/30 mins to stabalize, add mix to your bucket and start tiling
I don't see the point of using mastic here because you will be layering thinset right on this anyway.  The tape is just there to join the two pieces.   In reality you could tape and tile at the same time although the logistics of the tape falling would probably triple the time of taping in the first place - unless you have a tile magician.
the reason for "it doesn't matter" answer is that if you use it here there is still thinset over the mastic.

Waterproofing over the tape:

Here you are going to put something like redgard over the tape and cement board.
Materials for tape and bonding have very little importance.
ACTUALLY - the industry is in need for a solution here.  Tape and thinset is terrible as the amount of thinset causes a small ridge which may effect tiling, especially smaller mosaics.  Honestly I would use duck tape with no bonding if you take inspectors out of equation.
So mastic is just fine, just go light on it as you would thinset.   Remember you aren't hiding the mesh tape like drywall tape.

The real answer is you are putting too much thinset on.   Like I said - just enough to hide behind tape, not the tape.   The rest of the thinset that splattered should be scraped with putty knife and then wiped with wet towel immediately.   Big shower is 3 minutes clean up after taping if that.


If you do choose to use tile, you could use silicone caulk as the adhesive. It will bond well and is waterproof, you will need to secure it with tape and perhaps lean a heavy object against it to hold it in place until it cures. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry, and use apply a bead of silicone caulk around the entire perimeter of each piece to prevent water intrusion to the underside.


How do I remove the water/temperature control faucet if there are no visible screws?

Pull the outer temp control knob off, or pry it gently with a pair of non-marring tools from each side.


Is this Fafco valve actuator actually a Jandy?

If you can't manually operate the handle, the actuator might not be at fault - the actual valve might be jammed (or the actuator might be jammed, keeping you from operating the valve by hand, I guess.)

In any case, you should probably take the actuator off and verify if the valve can be operated by hand without it in place - if not, the new one won't have much joy either.


Can I make my stamped concrete a uniform color if there are pieces that are different colors?

There are 3 options:

1) Solid Color Concrete Stain: Just like solid body stain for wood, this is provides a uniform color and should cover the two different color stains you have. However, many feel it looks too uniform. In fact, most complain that it looks "plastic". Stamped concrete should look like natural stone rather than painted stone.  (A good solid color concrete stain is made by Behr.)

2) Extreme Concrete Restore: This is a restoration Stain and is similar to Solid Color Concrete Stain, but works well for older concrete surfaces too. (Rustoleum makes a good product.)

3) Semi-Transparent Concrete Stain: This creates a more natural stone appearance. However, when it is applied over two different colored concrete stains (like yours,) the different colors will show. Therefore, you'll need to first match the two colors up first by staining (solid stain) one of the colors...probably the darker color.

Semi-Transparent Concrete Stain comes with two different colors of Stain. One is the base color and the other is the accent color. Natural stone is not uniform. Therefore you'll need to apply the accent Stain over the base color with a brush to make it look natural and not so "plastic". (It takes some practice.  But don't worry, if you don't get it right the first time, you can go over it and do it again...but the color will be slightly darker.) If the base color is a little light, you can apply a second coat to darken it.

If some of the Stain is newer or some is sealed, you may need to give it all an acid wash. That way the concrete will "take" the Semi-Transparent Stain more uniformly. (To check to see if the various sections of concrete are sealed, pour about 1/4 cup water on it and see if it puddles or soaks in. If it does not soak in within 2-3 minutes, then it is sealed.) There is no reason to remove the sealer, except to have the concrete all the same. If it's all sealed, I'd skip the acid wash.

Remember, making the concrete look like natural stone is more artistry than a procedure. It takes patience and practice. If it doesn't turn out and you're too frustrated to try it again, you can always use the Solid Color Concrete Stain. Option 3 is the most difficult, but gives the best appearance, when done correctly.


How to mount butcher's block counter above washer/dryer?

What kind of ledge would I need? 1x4's mounted to studs?

1x4 or 2x4 for a ledger board (cleat) will work.
Yes you want them attached to at least two studs.
You do not even need to secure it to the cleats if you do not want to, It is very heavy, as long as it sized properly to not slide far enough side to side and slide off the cleat on the other end.  If you do secure it, bolts are not necessary, two L brackets on each side with small screws will be fine.

Would I need support in the middle, for a 6' span of 1.5" thick
counter?

NO. A butcher block (real hardwood) spanning 6 feet will not need center support, you could put a cleat along the back wall if you want.

Does the counter need to clear the top of the washer/dryer by a
specific amount? The dryer is electric not gas.

There is no rule about this that  i am aware of, You may want it low enough that things can not be set on the appliances and fall off the back.  Conversely, you may want enough room to reach in and shut the water supply off in an emergency.


Should 24" deck joist spacing be reduced to 16"?

The wider spacing is less rigid, you may feel a little flex as you walk. I do not like the flex so I used 16" centers. Also , if you use 2 X decking instead of the recommended 5/4"decking, it will be more rigid and last longer. My 2X decking is 20+ years old in good shape in a warm ,wet location; I have replaced about 5% because of rot ( under planters).


It's not a sign of any sparking or other high-energy phenomena (as it would melt the plastic). It's merely dirt accumulating on the plastic in curious pattern. You can wipe it off or ignore. It's not an electrical issue, it's rather property of the material.


What is the easiest solution to add receptacle along an unfinished, exterior, insulated, basement wall?

I think the easiest solution is to cut the vapor barrier in the section(s) the outlets will be located in. Cut along the studs. The install outlets/wiring between stud/insulation. Then, simply cut a new vapor barrier section, tape to seal. You don't need to take the entire vapor barrier down (unless you don't trust the tape seal--which if true, I also  presume you'd want to replace the entire vapor barrier?)

You may not plan to finish the basement, but the next owner may. Having receptacles flush with the studs will make it easy--if/when that time ever comes.


Is it OK to use solid oak flooring on top of a plywood subfloor in my shed?

Man I hate saying this because I just love when people reuse things and even the bigger bonus for using it in a creative way but I personally wouldn't.  Sounds like you have a lot of leftovers.  I would try to use them elsewhere in the house or sell them for others to use.

My problem with putting it in a shed is that the oak planks don't handle water well, it isn't an easy install (for a shed), it will look dirty really quick (lots of cracks), and as the other answer points out you will need to put a few coats of poly (2 not enough in my opinion for outdoor use).

Now if this shed is merely a very nice room not in the house I could see it, maybe.  Given that you will keep dirt and moisture out.  If it is a true shed that will house tools, garden equipment, pottery, and things like that then I think the oak flooring is impractical.  Also it would be a shame if you laid this down and it started buckling on you due to changes in temperature, humidity, water/gas/oil spills...  I see high risk with little reward given that the shed is used for what most sheds are used for.


Why would changing a light bulb cause the oven heat and control to fail?

Since you mentioned an insulating ring and every thing was fine until you turned on the light there is a short in the wiring (the pop) was something going to ground. Hopefully there is a fuse but some damage to the wiring or control board is likely if not fused inside the controller. With the power off look for a fuse and or blown traces on the controller.


Concerns with washer and dryer in walk in closet

All dryers need a vent. Gas and electric dryers need a vent to the outside of the house to allow all the moisture to escape from the dryer.

All-in-one washer/dryer combo units don't need an air vent, but need a water drain to remove the water from the drying stage (which you need anyways to drain the wash cycle).

The walls are irrelevant. So don't worry about those.

The bigger concern would be the floor. If this is a high efficiency front-loading washer, it will be prone to lots of lateral shaking. Most wood framed floors are ill equipped to handle the speed of front loader washers. It's usually recommended that they be placed on concrete slabs.

As such if the closet wasn't designed for a washer/dryer, then you probably need to beef up the floor as much as you can to reduce the shaking.


When finishing a basement should the ceiling or floor be completed first?

When adding new walls for things like bathrooms I will usually put the walls up first on the deck or slab this way if later you have a water leak and the underlayment has started to swell it is not trapped by the walls it makes repairs easier it is a real pain when the deck and underlayment is put down first and then there is a leak that damages the underlayment that is under the wall.


What alternate ways are there to get into a garage when you don't have the opener?

Typically, garage openers have a release pull that hangs down from the track.  When closed, this release will be close enough to the door to get if you drill a 5/8 inch hole about a foot under the where the opener attaches to the door.  Fish for the line with a wire coat hanger and then pull to release.  It will take a couple of tries but you should be able to do it.

Once open, go to your hardware store and get a garage door quick release lock and install it into the hole you just drilled.  In the future if you have a power outage or a failed garage door opener you will be able to get back in.


I sealed some nearly black granite over 20 years ago and it never needed resealing. The first time food oil touched it , it made a mark in the granite. So I went to the dealer and he sold me a 500 ml bottle of a clear oil-like liquid. It worked great; it needed less than one ounce/sq.yd. ... Found it in my garage- PSI, premium silicon impregnator ( Lithofin brand), made in Germany.


Is it against code to create a NM-B to THHN junction inside a conduit body?

You're going to want to use a junction box to switch between nonmetallic sheathed cable, and individual wires.

Conduit body must be marked with volume

The first problem you'll run into while making splices in the conduit body (which isn't likely a problem, since most fittings are labeled), is that you'll have to make sure the conduit body is "durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer with their volume".

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials

  Article 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures

  314.16 Number of Conductors in Outlet, Device, and Junction Boxes, and Conduit Bodies.

  (C) Conduit Bodies.

  (2) With Splices, Taps, or Devices. Only those conduit bodies that are durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer with their volume shall be permitted to contain splices, taps, or devices. The maximum number of conductors shall be calculated in accordance with 314.16(B). Conduit bodies shall be supported in a rigid and secure manner.

Cable must be secured to conduit body

The next problem, is that the cable must be secured to the conduit body.

  314.17 Conductors Entering Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings. Conductors entering boxes, conduit bodies, or fittings shall be protected from abrasion and shall comply with 314.17(A) through (D).

  B) Metal Boxes and Conduit Bodies. Where metal boxes or conduit bodies are installed with messenger-supported wiring, open wiring on insulators, or concealed knob-andtube wiring, conductors shall enter through insulating bushings or, in dry locations, through flexible tubing extending from the last insulating support to not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamps. Except as provided in 300.15(C), the wiring shall be firmly secured to the box or conduit body. Where raceway or cable is installed with metal boxes or conduit bodies, the raceway or cable shall be secured to such boxes and conduit bodies.

  (C) Nonmetallic Boxes and Conduit Bodies. Nonmetallic boxes and conduit bodies shall be suitable for the lowest temperature-rated conductor entering the box. Where nonmetallic boxes and conduit bodies are used with messengersupported wiring, open wiring on insulators, or concealed knob-and-tube wiring, the conductors shall enter the box through individual holes. Where flexible tubing is used to enclose the conductors, the tubing shall extend from the last insulating support to not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp. Where nonmetallicsheathed cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used, the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp. In all instances, all permitted wiring methods shall be secured to the boxes.

Wet locations

If the conduit body is outside, the AHJ could consider it a wet location.  In this case, you wouldn't be able to have NM cable in the conduit body since it's not allowed in wet locations.

tl;dr

In most cases, you'll install conduit off the back of a Type LB conduit body, through the wall, and connect it to a junction box inside the building.  You'll make your splices in this box, not in the conduit body.


Based on picture and follow-on comments-
If it only trips the breaker with the switch insert, and runs without the switch in the circuit, you must be wiring the switch incorrectly.
From your picture, the black should be one side and the white on the other side. You have the wires going side to side, the black wires should be arranged vertical on one side and the white vertical on the other side based on the color of the terminals on the switch.

The Q&A area for the switch states that the black goes on one side and the white goes on the other side, not on top of each other.

You will get continuity on one side with the switch on, and no continuity when the switch is off. You will get no continuity from side to side, with switch on or off.

Please note, even if it work now, you may have damage the switch contacts (internal) by shorting the switch. I would replace with a new safety switch or with a normal light switch, switching only the black(hot) wire.


Can I attach 2x4s to the studs in order to mount my TV?

This is actually one of the most often recommended approaches to solving this problem. If you're up for a bit of drywall work. You could cut open the wall a bit, and install the 2x4s between the studs.

For a quick fix, bolting 2x4s to the studs on the outside of the wall should work just fine. If you paint the 2x4s the same color as the wall, it might help to blend them in a bit.

Another option is to try and find a mount that accommodates 24" stud spacing, though this may not be an option if you already have a mount you want to use.


What's the difference between a No.4 and No.5 hand plane

The plane iron may also be ground slight differently in shape (as opposed to angle)... but yes, those are the largest differences. They do affect how the plane is used.

A longer plane improves its ability to accurately flatten a surface (it can level out wider-spaced hills and valleys where a shorter plane would just follow the curves). But depending on what you're doing, the additional weight may be tiring or may be helpful -- harder to lift, but the weight helps keep the iron in contact with the wood.

The ideal hand-tool woodshop has a range of planes from jointers (long) all the way down to block planes small enough to hold in a hand, plus various specialty planes (shoulder planes, rabbeting planes, router planes...) each of them having its own trade-offs -- just as the ideal woodshop has a range of chisel sizes and types. Most of us don't have ideal shops, and that's OK. You can do the same jobs with a smaller setup, it may just take more work and care.

If I had to pick just one of those two, I think I'd have gone for the #4 first... but that may be personal bias; I've already rescued several of that size from various garage sales, and because I haven't had to do serious smoothing/jointing yet. And I'd suggest a block plane as your second purchase -- they're light enough to carry anywhere and more useful for spot-trimming than you might think.

If you do buy a 9" plane, it's seriously worth considering a low-angle plane (lower bedding angle, higher angle on the blade). Among other things, that gives you a wider range available if you need to grind blades to other angles when handling special cases. These do tend to be a bit more expensive, though, largely because this design is mostly offered by the higher-end manufacturers.

(Edit: Yes, I know, "long jointers are long, duh". Redundancy fixed.)


Possible water leak under hardwood floor

I think your implied question is: How can I determine if this is an active problem or is a one-off from a previous incident?
Solving water issues often requires detective work. It's hard to tell from the pictures but from your description it sounds like minor water damage. The first step is to check for a logical source of the water. Remember, it's possible it occurred during or shortly after construction. The pictures show the damage to be mostly away from the wall. You might check for signs of a leak around the radiator but it's unlikely to be the issue unless there is floor damage close to it. The other possibility is a roof or skylight leak directly above that spot or even a potted plant that was over-watered at some point. With a skylight leak you may or may not see signs of moisture around the skylight - watch for drips during the next rain or snow event.
The important thing is to check for moisture currently present in the flooring. Often it's hard to tell without a two pin moisture meter. They're available at most home supply stores and aren't too expensive. That will give you an idea of how recently the problem occurred. If a meter shows no sign of unusual moisture content it will at least allow you some piece of mind. If there is moisture - keep detecting.


Can I extend my sump pump outlet and dig it down in the ground?

There really aren't any hard-and-fast rules here as long as you don't work the pump too hard. Plenty of homes in my area have sump lines running all the way to the street gutter at 100 feet or more. You're right that you want to minimize bends, but a few won't hurt. The critical point is that the pipe is large enough. If you're talking about standard 1-1/4" pipe you're fine. Smooth-wall rigid pipe is best.


Need to install wood framing in a pipe filled wall to be able to hang shelving

So, you've got lots of options, some of which no "real" contractor would ever do, but are perfectly fine.

If you use long drywall screws you can screw your wood blocking to the metal studs, just like you would if the studs were wood.  Sharp screws will penetrate the metal studs.  This is not optimal because your skill at doing this non-standard solution could result in shelf failure later, though it's probably what I would do.

You could do as one of commenters suggested and put stand-alone shelving agains the wall and attach it with brackets to the new drywall or directly into the metal studs- perfectly fine - very DIYish.  Use drywall anchors.

You could screw shelves directly into the metal studs - they are studs - they hold weight - no problem.  This is also something I would probably do.  Use drywall anchors.

You could use 1/2 or 3/4 plywood on the wall instead of drywall.  Kind of odd, but it will provide excellent holding capacity to attach shelving. (I have a plywood wall in my mudroom - shelving bolted right on.

You could attach vertical wood 2x4x on top of the drywall floor to ceiling, attached to the studs (essentially a new set of exposed studs).  Then attach your shelving to that.

Basically, your goal is to get something that isn't going to easily rip away from the wall...and a nearly infinite variety of screws, wood and brackets will satisfy this.


Verify that power is reaching the outlet the stove is plugged into. If you know this to be true check to see if any part of the stove is working. If it's an electric model do the heating elements work? Does the oven light work? If it's a gas model do the electric spark igniters work?
If you find that the stove is completely non-functional with no power at all and you confirmed that the outlet is energized the problem may be:
-the power cord could be broken. you will need to do a continuity test on each wire.
-the ovens plug may be damaged. Again test for continuity.
Sometimes the transformer on the stoves circuit board gets fried or expires. This transformer supplies the voltage for all the low voltage circuits on the stove (ie LED lights, signaling alarms and beeps and LCD read outs). For this repair you will need a technician to test the board.


Replaced toilet valve & tube, turning water back on rumbles

Yes, slowly. There's air in the line making the noise. It will dissipate if you slowly turn the water back on.


water is seeping out from under tub and soaking wood floor

Maybe, but probably not. Most likely there is a leak either in the pipes at the valve or shower head or the caulking or grout (if any) has failed. There is sometimes an access hatch on the valve wall (opposite wall-side). This will give you a view of the plumbing. If not look closely on the shower wall for any gaps or cracks that need sealant or caulking.


How can I stop interior doors from opening when exterior doors are opened?

You have two problems really and you can choose to solve one, the other or both.

First is the easier one, securing your doors so they can't be opened by the air.  As Gunner mentioned, a ball latch/catch might work however they are designed to allow the door to open with a bit of force.

(source: homedepot.ca)

Other options include a bolt that you manually open at the top/bottom, or a panic bar:

(source: keylessaccesslocks.com)

The second way to tackle this problem is to prevent the vacuum that is occurring when the doors are opened.  You likely need vents to allow air to flow between the two rooms - either slats in the door or more dedicated HVAC.


It's confusing when you say "The neutral wire on the switch is live/hot.", since typically there are no "neutral" wires connected to switches. Is it possible that the white wire from the cable is used as a switched "hot"? Wire color does not dictate purpose, how it's connected does.

If this is not the case. You'll have to locate the point in the circuit where the "hot" and "neutral" are swapped, and correct the problem. You'll then have to inspect the entire circuit, and insure it's wired properly.


Is fixing these stairs as simple as just replacing the stairs and supports?

If the cleats supporting the steps are solid and haven't deteriorated, use 3 inch course-thread screws to re-secure them to the stair stringers (the long outer sections that span from the bottom to the landing.

If you are in doubt as to the condition of the cleats replace them. I'd use any 2 x stock cut a bit longer than the width of the step. Install it so the cleat's edge is recessed back from the step's edge. From the looks of your foggy photo it appears your steps are 2 x ? stock. If they are in need of replacement (and can't be repaired) replace with similar dimensioned wood.

Also you might want to consider if there are several steps and/or cleats to be replaced is to install a third stringer between the existing ones. They can be found sometimes pre cut. And it isn't that hard to cut one from a length of 2 x 10 or 12 Douglas fir.


Is this water damage, dry rot, or just old age?

This looks like a slow water leak, over a time, perhaps caused by:

Ice dam
gutter overflow
improper flashing near window.
damaged roofing

Is there access below this spot?  You will likely have apparent sub-floor damage.

Its good news that the area is dry now.  Perhaps a roof replacement fixed the source.  At a minimum, you should expose that stud bay side-to-side and 12" high, until you find solid, undamaged base plate and no stud damage.


Flat non-concrete subsurface for outdoor rubber tile

I have horses, we put down at least 4” of crushed quarry  or shale rock then use a plate compactor while watering it any low spots are filled and we get the areas quite flat then 3/4 rubber mats are put down. This usually holds up for about 5 years with even draft horses standing in the same spot (at the door with there head out) for hours a day our big boy weighs in at 1500+

If ours can hold up to this abuse it should be able to a person, a plate compactor will do a much better job than trying to do it by hand, add water and it really locks the crushed rock fines together. Note a compactor can be rented, also never use crushed river rock as it has partially round edges and never locks together like shale or crushed quarry will.


Should I insulate metal duct work in basement?

They make insulation that is like a foil and fiberglass blanket that you wrap square ducts with, if you are in a high humidity area you may find the duct will sweat if not insulated because your ductwork close to the air handler will be 20-30 degrees lower than the room temp causing the condensation. I might wait and see. Just google duct insulation and you will see the different types.


Can I wire a exterior light to a inside outlet?

The AC won't be running at night when the LED light is needed . LED lights draw very little power so you will probably be fine. The high bay LED's I have recently installed with similar lumens draw only .5 amps.


Other than unforeseen surge in draw, what can cause breaker tripping?

The 100 amp breaker could be faulty.

The wiring between the two panels could be faulty. A break in the wire could cause resistance and draw enough current to trip the breaker. Or a break in the insulation could allow a short.

If a breaker in a subpanel is faulty, and it fails to trip when the circuit it protects draws too much current, then the upstream breaker will trip. In your case, the upstream breaker is the 100 amp breaker in the main panel.

There is also a small possibility that you have the wrong 100 amp breaker for you application. The breaker for your AC might have a trip curve that allows for high current draw briefly, but the 100 amp breaker trip curve does not. Please post the model numbers of those breakers.


Repairing a circuit when the break is unknown and inaccesible.

One possible investigatory tool is a "toner" set - Fox & Hound or some other brand - While they are are more often used on telecommunications cables, some do claim to work on power wires. User reports vary, possibly due to different toner sets working more successfully than others with power wires. They work by one part applying a small electrical signal to the wires, which  the other part of the set can pick up without having to actually touch the wires. If you can get a tone on a circuit (Disconnect it at the breaker before hooking up the toner - assuming you understand the risks of and precautions to take when working in the breaker panel [scratch that - it's the landlord's problem - leave it alone]) and then you find a place in the wall where tone stops, rather than going off in any of the possible directions at that point in the wall, it might mean you've found the break. Check both sides of the wall, etc. to increase the odds of success. Try connecting the toner at one of the dead outlets and tracing backwards, as well. If they both stop in the same place coming from different directions, that's a good place to knock a hole in the wall.

Before any more fail, map whatever circuits still work, and perhaps turn off any you can't find out what's connected to (paying attention to things that might not be instantly obvious like furnace or boiler, well pump if any, sump pumps, etc...)


Should additional coats of polyurethane be applied after removing roughness?

Yes, the usual routine is to use steel wool or similar to smooth the results of the first coat, which raises grain in the wood. This will dull the finish. Then additional coats are applied, which don't tend to have the same effect, and which restore the luster of the finish.

Two coats is considered the bare minimum by most folks. You could potentially buff a single coat to something satisfactory, but in my experience you'll have dry spots and a very thin protective layer with that approach.


What is the lifespan of a typical incandescent light bulb?

From 1924 to 1939 the lifetime of an incandescent lamp was not more than 1,000 hours. That's the duration of the Phoebus Cartel, in which the consolidated patent holders agreed on a strategy of planned obsolescence to boost revenues and fine any member that produced longer lasting bulbs. (It was a 30 year plan, the war shortened the 1959 end date.) Prior to that, longevity was a big marketing point. The Centennial Bulb is a famous bulb made by the Shelby Electric Company which has been burning in a California fire house since being installed in 1901.

Given that planned obsolescence is a profitable business model and the complete lack of any radical changes in incandescent lamps, it's a safe bet that 1,000 hours is in the ballpark right from the 60s through the 80s. I suspect most R&D revolved around making them easier to manufacture or brighter.


Looks like 3-way being excluded and controlled only by the timer. If you want to make it work again, check connections to the timer and, if needed add a relay (1pole 3 contacts) to behave as second '3 way' switch andremove the 'bridge'.

PS: It is normal that the two 'deviated' poles on a 3 way are always disconnected from each other as the commute is between common and one of the 2 poles.

So these are schemas on how 3-way work (1), how 3-way with timer should be wired (2) and how your system is (probably) wired (3):,


New Sprinkler Installation - Rototill/Level Before or After? Any other "Pre-Sprinkler" Preparation?

Definitely rotortill before you put in the pipes. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging pipes and sprinklers.


Confused on what AC Unit to purchase and install?

The heat pump can move heat indoors to outdoors ("air condition") as well as from outdoors to indoors (heating).  The cooling only unit can only air condition.

If the house already has heating or you rarely need heat, you can save some money by getting a cooling-only unit, and maybe supplement that with portable electric heaters as needed.

As to brand comparisons, I strongly recommend you review the Consumer Reports reader reliability report of air conditioners and heatpumps:  that can be done online by paying a fee, or visiting a library.

As for some installers carefully measuring and the others not, the latter could be fine if your dwelling is not especially unique:  an experienced installer has run the numbers so many times that they know what the result is.  That experience is helped by there being a coarse choice of capacities:  2 ton, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 5, 6, 7.5, 10, 12.5, etc.

On the other hand, not measuring could be a sign of an unknowledgeable installer.  Do they also propose a 3.5 ton unit?

As far as questions to ask, I like to elicit being assured that if anything goes wrong for X years, they will fix it for free.  If they can say so confidently, that is a very good sign that they don't think anything will go wrong.

It might be useful to ask an installer why they choose 3.5 tons and not 3 or 4.  There is a certain degree of assumption about worst case and average case conditions.  If the a/c can't quite keep up on the 5 hottest days that is one thing, but if it can't keep up on 30 of them, that is quite a different matter.  Likewise, an oversized system can chill the air so much that it doesn't have to run much, making the air stagnant and possibly muggy.  Questions asking about how they balance those factors are good for you to understand and for the installer to reflect upon.


Since you have a flue I assume it is either gas/propane or oil fired. Most water heaters have cover near the base to service the burner or the igniter. First shut off the fuel source.  If you remove the cover you should be able to look inside with the aid of a flashlight. Most burners are round and you may find that the cap has fallen into the center and may even be on the floor under the tank.


The reason why Zinsco/compatible breakers are so gosh darn expensive is because Zinsco panels are obsolete and have a somewhat checkered field failure history -- while they do not suffer as badly from the issues that plague FPE's line of non-breakers, the Zinsco breaker line still has some of the same problems: namely miscalibration (i.e. failure to trip under low to moderate overload conditions) and breaker-to-busbar arcing/overheating damage.

As to a replacement type: the resistance of modern electrical grade aluminum alloy (AA-8000) to salt air corrosion (pitting) is unknown, but presumed to be poor -- also, salt air and current drive can aggravate galvanic corrosion of aluminum, weighing against the use of unplated aluminum busbars in salt air, and also against zinc-plated aluminum (the standard for aluminum busbar panels) due to bimetallic effects.

This leaves us with copper busbar panel options; some use various forms of plated busbars (either silver flashed or tin plated copper), while others use a bare copper busbar. While silvered contacts are generally considered to have excellent corrosion performance overall (tarnish is conductive enough in thin layers that it doesn't impact contact performance the way oxides do), the presence of chlorides (salt spray) can result in nonconductive silver chloride being present.  On the other hand, tin plating withstands salt attack very well in salt spray tests, and so does bare copper.

Another factor is that if the existing enclosure is appropriately weatherproof and in good condition, an Eaton retrofit kit can be installed by an electrician to convert the existing panel to a type CH (copper bus BR is not available in the retrofit kits).  Of course, if the enclosure's shot and needs replacing, then replace it.


Screw and washer should go through flat area or curved?

The depression you're asking about appears to be simply sloppy manufacturing to me. It doesn't seem like an intentional countersink. If it was you'd probably have flat-head screws instead.

The washer goes under the nut when working with metal, not under the screw head (unless there is no nut or it's an integrated nut).
The screw head should be oriented where it's accessible and gives the best appearance.

I'd put that ugly dent against the mounting surface and the screw head against a nice flat hole, personally, No matter where you put it you'll mash that tubing if you tighten too much, so go easy.


House slightly uneven floors almost everywhere

I cannot see anything to cause alarm. It sounds like a quality of finish issue and not something that would be typical of a home inspection report.

Subject to the laws of physics and land use regulations, any construction project is possible if sufficient resources are devoted to its completion. Whether it makes personal or economic sense to reduce the planar deviation of the floor is something that each of us has to decide for ourselves.


Remove/Kill Wasps When You Cannot Get to the Nest

Have you thought about using a trap?
We had an infestation of yellow jackets last fall, and tried almost everything to wipe them out after my brother got stung by a swarm while out mowing the lawn, only we couldn't find the nests. What we ended up doing was hanging a trap in the back yard, and only a few days later, we started catching the little buggers in it.
The trap we bought, called a "Rescue W.H.Y" trap (make sure to grab attractant refills too), supposedly works on wasps and hornets, but I can definitely say that it works on yellow jackets. You can find them in the Garden section of a local Home Depot or Lowe's, but it's a little cheaper online, if you don't mind waiting a few days to get them.
Hope this helps!


What is the safe/proper way to run non-metallic conduit between floors?

This depends on your locality, and you didn't mention where you are. In my locality, I think the only necessary plug between floors is to use some fire-stop expanding foam insulation on the outside of the ENT. (For those not in the know, ENT = Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing, aka interior flex conduit.)

Your local city/county building inspector / permit office will know more, and you should contact them.


You'll need a 20A GFCI breaker for this

What you are looking at there is a 240V circuit on a two-pole breaker; both the black and white wires are hots, but from opposite legs of your service (one pulls one way, the other pulls the other way), which is why connecting them both to the LINE HOT on the GFCI receptacle tripped the breaker (as it should have, to stop the game of electrical tug-of-war you inadvertently created).

As a result, you can't use a GFCI receptacle on this circuit at all, as 240V GFCI receptacles simply are not made; instead, you need to use the correct GFCI circuit breaker for your panel to provide protection to a regular (non-GFCI) 240V receptacle of the correct configuration (and a Sharpie, black electrical tape, or the likes to remark that white wire in your picture as a hot wire).

And by the way, the correct receptacle for your application is a NEMA 6-20T; if the receptacle there already wasn't a NEMA 6, it'll need to be replaced with one, lest you leave a 240V boobytrap for the next poor bloke who has to service this circuit!


How to replace drywall adjacent to wall cabinets and then tile over it?

An untaped (unsupported) joint is an opportunity for more flex than you want in a tiled wall. I'd definitely try to bond the new and old drywall as well as possible.

Unfortunately the best time to replace the drywall was while the cabinets were out, when you could have cut the drywall up above the lower cabinet line and buried it. Now, I'd probably either cut right at the top of the tile or try to remove a row of full tiles and come down a few inches lower. In either case you should be able to tape the joint with fiberglass mesh embedded in a skim coat of tile mortar.

The alternative would be to put in framing blocking behind the entire top edge of the new drywall, or to use something more robust, such as cement board. Just don't leave it to floating drywall and the tile itself to prevent flex, and therefore cracked tile and grout.


Yes that is mold and it's very common bathrooms.

Yes you can try to remove it yourself.

Make a bleach solution with 1 tablespoon bleach and 1 cup warm water with 1-2 drops of soap. Dish washing soap is fine.
Put on eye protection.
Use an old toothbrush to scrub at the mold to remove it. The soap should help remove the mold and the bleach will help kill it but keep in mind mold often stains things.

Source: I get this mold all the time in the bathroom and I've tried various ways to fix it. Sometimes I just have to remove the old caulk and add new caulk. The best way is prevention with good ventilation.

Some more tips:

If you or the landlord paints over this, add mold inhibitor to the paint. It will help on painted surfaces.
I've found mold living on painted aluminum window frames. So there must be something there in the paint for it to eat. This mold can grow in unexpected places.
If you are a renter, this might be a health code violation and that means you can get the landlord to fix it. Look into a renter's association in your area for advice.
Or make a deal with the landlord. If he buys the paint with mold inhibitor, you can paint the bathroom for free.
You can buy buckets of moisture absorber, which is essentially calcium chloride, sold as non-salt ice melt in the winter. This stuff is also sold as moisture absorber at the Dollar Tree, but only in the small buckets. Online the big buckets are more expensive. DT link. Link to product image.


Are window air conditioner support brackets designed to support a window air conditioner by itself?

The bracket is entirely sufficient to support your AC.  That's doesn't mean that in some freak occurrence it couldn't come out of the window. If you want to add to the margin of safety, you want to prevent the upper sash from loosening enough to prevent it from rotating out. Most units have screw holes in the frame of the AC that allow you to fasten it to the upper sash.  Otherwise a small screw or nail to prevent the sash from moving will do the trick. At that point not much short of a tornado is going to get it out of the window...

Hope this helps!


What could be causing the low water level in my shower trap?

If your shower (or any drain) is draining to your sump pit, you are overworking your sump pump and shortening it's life span. If you have a radon mitigation system that uses the sump pit, you are also creating a situation where radon can potentially enter your house.  The only water that should ever be in the sump pit, is ground water.
Aside from that, here are a few things that may cause your issue.
Evaporation
If the shower is not used very often, the trap can naturally dry out due to evaporation.
Solution
Either use the shower more, or routinely pour water down the drain.
Blockage in dry vent
If the vent becomes obstructed, water flowing down the drain can produce a syphoning action and suck the trap dry.
Solution
Clear the blockage in the vent, by snaking out the vent pipe.
Blockage in wet vent
In situations where a vent is not directly connected to a drain line, a wet vent will be used.  A wet vent, is a pipe that serves as both a drain line and a vent.

If this pipe becomes restricted, syphoning action similar to a blocked dry vent can suck the trap dry.

Air cannot get past the obstruction while water is flowing through the pipe, which creates a pressure difference that must be equalized. There are two things that can happen in this situation. Air can be forced past the obstruction (possibly causing gurgling), or air can be forced through the trap (causing gurgling that you're more likely to hear).
Solution
Snake the drain and clear the obstruction.
If you really are draining to a sump pit used in a radon mitigation system
If both drains and a radon mitigation system are connected to the sum pit, the radon system could be sucking the water from the trap.  A radon mitigation system works by sucking radon out from under the house, and venting it outside. If the pressure in the radon vent is lower than the pressure in the house (which is sort of how they work, so it probably is), the water in the trap could be forced out and down the drain by the higher pressure air in the house.
Solution
Don't drain to the sump pit, especially if you have a radon mitigation system.


What do I have to do to prepare my garage floor for paint?

I purchased a garage floor epoxy kit It contained very detailed instructions on how to prep the floor. It also had muriatic acid in it to etch the floor before painting on the epoxy.

One tip I would give is to have someone help you put it on.  You only have a limited time to work with the epoxy once the two parts are mixed. If you have one person cutting in and one person rolling on the main part, it is much easier to get it done in the setup time of the epoxy.


The drain will work but it will not work very well.
The larger pipe provides more surface holes for water to enter.
The smaller area inside will not have much area for water flow and will fill up with silt more than 4x faster (pie R squared ).
Slight variations in slope will affect the drainage.
Don’t go with small pipe. Most of the cost in a good drain is digging, and rock. The pipe is a fraction of the cost and trying to go cheep will cost in the long run.


Service conductors between meter box and 100 panel. Can I still use #2 Aluminum? Manitoba

The 23rd edition of the Canadian Electrical Code allows 2AWG aluminum service conductors for a 100A service if the conductor insulation is rated to 90˚C and the conductors terminate on equipment with maximum conductor termination temp of 75˚C (which includes all modern circuit breakers).

These service conductors must also be carried in a minimum 1.25" conduit. If it's PVC conduit, the conduit must carry an SR (Sunlight Resistant) designation stamped on the outside.


Does the circuit providing a light at the electrical panel have to be ONLY for that light?

The required lighting outlet for areas with equipment is definitely not required to be on a dedicated circuit. It can be on any general circuit.

Same goes for the receptacle. It is not required to be dedicated, but typically this is. This receptacle is required for unfinished basement areas. It's not required to be at the panel, but usually this is the easiest place to put it.

  2011 NEC

  III. Required Outlets

  210.70 Lighting Outlets Required

  (A) Dwelling Units.

  In dwelling units, lighting outlets shall be installed in accordance
  with 210.70(A)(1), (A)(2), and (A)(3).

  (3) Storage or Equipment Spaces.

  For attics, underfloor spaces, utility rooms, and basements, at least
  one lighting outlet containing a switch or controlled by a wall switch
  shall be installed where these spaces are used for storage or contain
  equipment requiring servicing. At least one point of control shall be
  at the usual point of entry to these spaces. The lighting outlet shall
  be provided at or near the equipment requiring servicing.

  2011 NEC

  III. Required Outlets

  210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets

  (G) Basements, Garages, and Accessory Buildings.

  For a one-family dwelling, the following provisions shall apply:

  (1)  At least one receptacle outlet, in addition to those for specific equipment, shall be installed in each basement, in each attached
  garage, and in each detached garage or accessory building with
  electric power.

  (2)  Where a portion of the basement is finished into one or more habitable rooms, each separate unfinished portion shall have a
  receptacle outlet installed in accordance with this section.


Towel bar above wall-mounted convection heater

On product description:
Key Features and Benefits
Top discharge provides powerful convection airflow
From User Manual:
5. To prevent a possible fire, do not block the air
intakes or exhaust in any manner.


Ceiling cracks appear and worsen over weeks. Self repair or professional?

There is visual evidence in photo A3 of one or more interior renovations constructed with less than workman-like quality.

Given the age of the house and what portions of the original construction remain, I it would be common for a house of this age to have had a load bearing wall perpendicular to the ceiling joists when originally constructed.

If there was previously an interior load bearing wall perpendicular to the ceiling joists, it's purpose would have been to reduce ceiling joist deflection. The cracking in the ceiling finish is symptomatic of deflection beyond the strength of the finish joints.

I recommend consulting a structural engineer familiar with residential projects of this scope. The condition is probably repairable given a reasonable budget, but it is necessary to first know what exactly needs to be repair.


Why is my ceramic tile popping out of the floor?

This is a really really poor installation.  Everything will have to be pulled up.  Tiles will need to be cleaned or thrown away and reinstall.

Issues:

The mortar/cement isn't even covering under the mesh in some pictures.  To do this type of install you need to cement/mortar the mesh to the floor and a skim coat on top.  Once this dries you can continue the tile installation with thinset.
Either the mix wasn't right or the contractor used the mortar after it started drying.  I can tell by the pictures that this wasn't a good wet install.
The tiles were just thrown on top of the mortar after he added it to the mesh.  In some areas there was not enough mortar so the mortar seeped under the mesh and the tile had nothing left.  (and I am 80% positive that the mortar used for the mesh is probably not good for tile install but let's just assume it is)
There is no sign of a trowel being used (properly).
And then the biggest reason... It is completely obvious that the tiles were added way too late.  The tiles look like they were laid on mortar that was 70% dried out.  You are lucky about this because this floor was going to fail miserably eventually and you would be out more time and tiles.  But this screw up will actually make demoing and reusing the tiles easier.

This is just a guess.  But it looks like this guy laid out the mesh, nailed it down, mixed up a couple of big buckets of mortar and just threw it on the floor.  Once he "smoothed" out the floor he started adding the tiles.  That is why you are seeing so much inconsistency - some mortar sticking to tiles, some to floor and some in between.

My advice is to demo everything that is left and hire someone that knows what they are doing - I am happy to give you step by step advice as this is much simpler than this guy made it.    You cannot let this guy touch your house again though.


Most efficient garden irrigation for rainbird kit?

Having that many heads on at 1 time you may not be able to get proper coverage.
I would defiantly say the branched setup so you can run half at a time if needed.
It’s not so much efficiency but coverage that will be effected. Or possibly our terminology needs to match.
Separate branches run independently will cover more area and provide a more even coverage pattern.


Water coming down PVC pipe from ceiling to furnace

You likely just need caulk from a poor HVAC guy install using flat metal that is now sagged (needs to be crowned) & letting water in as well as causing condensation water whenever the furnace runs. If you aren't comfortable with getting on the roof to see if you just need caulk, then absolutely get a Roofer to address it.


A small-ish tub of ready mix stucco patch should do the trick.

A few notes:

be sure to knock off anything loose underneath
check the label for application/curing temperature. It may be too cold to use right now. (I don't know of any product that's specifically designed for cold weather application, though it might exist.)
a coarse sponge might help you get close to the texture, or you may find that you need to add something to the top layer (like coarse sand). It's not absolutely clear what your existing finish is made up of.

(edit to respond to your edit) I wouldn't use the quikrete you linked. Color is going to be hard to match. If consistency is something you're looking for, you'll probably need to do the entire walls up to the next corner.


How can I use a separate transformer to provide a C wire to my thermostat?

You guys down voted the only answer that is correct and up voted one that is completely wrong!!! You CANNOT use just one wire from a transformer and expect to get it to do a thing for you. The simple answer to your question is that if you add a transformer you want to tie the lines from it to Rh and C. Most modern thermostats I know of expect to pull power between Rh and C. You do NOT want to tie Rh and Rc together since your heating and cooling are on separate transformers and you don't know if they are truly floating.

The complex answer is that you should check to see if the control board of your heating system doesn't, in fact, have a common terminal and nobody bothered to run the wires for it. If it does, it might be simpler to just pull 18/3 wire from the heater to the thermostat. Depending on the run, you can use the old two conductor wire to pull the three conductor wire through.


Can I replace 15 amp spiral CFL lights in garage with fluorescent lights?

Yes you can replace your spiral lights with 4’ fluorescent fixtures.
A 15 amp circuit can handle quite a few of those 2 or 4 lamp fixtures.
The average 4’ only consumes ~32w or 128w for a  4lamp fixture you could put almost a dozen of those fixtures on a 15 amp circuit.
Consider led, I convert my T8 & t12 lamps to led lamps more visible light and less power usage 15w 1800 lumens but the lamps cost 6.25 ea now.
The advantage to led is more perceived light at the given wavelength using 1/2 the power.
the big kicker is LED’s usually have at least a 50000 hour life and are not affected by turning on and off.
A fluorescent tube has a shorter life and just a month after installing there is a noticeable reduction in light output of placed next to an led.
I even purchase / get for free old fixtures and put LED’s in them
If you do go with LED get DLC certified 5 year warranty with DLC.  Then you could put even more lights up or enjoy the savings while being able to see.


Can I remove framing members forming a wall below a load bearing beam?

It's highly unlikely that there's a full beam in that wall. There's probably a doubled 2x10 header over the opening. Plan on installing a 3-1/2" by 14" LVL beam (or steel) to span that distance (after talking to an engineer, of course).

You can remove studs under a load-bearing beam if the beam is designed for the resulting span(s) and the remaining studs (posts) are properly supported below.


affordable metal tubing longer than 10ft?

What kind of material?  Purpose?  You're leaving alot out here.

Steel yards typically carry 20' or 24' sticks of various profiles, including tubing.  Price will depend on size, etc.


Do the end caps on this fuse get transferred to the new fuse when/if it blows?

Yes, it appears these adapters are common.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-626-38632-Fuse-Adapter-60-to-30-Reducer-for-Class-H-250V


How do I open a padlock after it has frozen?

Get some lock deicer/lubricant. It's sold specifically for this and contains graphite and methanol. Shake well before applying. The methanol removes water and oil from the lock mechanism and leaves behind graphite well flooded through every nook and cranny in the device. You use graphite because it's a dry lubricant and unlike oil, it doesn't attract dirt or gum up like petroleum lubricants.


Mini Pottery kiln with NEMA 5-20 plug that requires 120volts, 16amps, 1920 watts, and 20amp breaker

Using an "adapter" is out of the question.

Get an outlet tester and make sure all the receptacles work.  If any receptacles don't work, make an effort to repair them, or positvely determine they are not part of a 20A circuit.
Turn off all 20A breakers.
Go back around and find which receptacles have lost power just now.    Mark them "20???".
Inspect every single one of them to assure that all the wires are #12, not #14 size.  #14 will cheerfully fit in a "backstab" hole of a receptacle labled "#14 wire only".  #12 will fit very tightly or not at all.   If you can get a specimen of each, you can just hold them up to compare.
If all the wires on all the "20???" outlets is #12 wire, feel free to change any of them to NEMA 5-20 receptacles.  Remember to check for any broken tabs on the old receptacle.

Feel free to limit this exercise to just one breaker if you know the other won't have plugs where you need them.


Moisture is leaking through my basement walls, but the house is surrounded by concrete. Worth fixing?

I would get the ice away from the walls by a yard or so to try and minimize the incoming.

Drying out the damage is next - perhaps a dehumidifier...

Could you consider a drastic (and expensive probably) solution - by excavating down each outside wall and putting a treatment to seal the wall, also uses a plastic membrane (the one we had to use has "hats or thimbles" molded into it to make it 1/2" thick to allow the water to drain.

You could also consider adding a layer of insulation to the wall at the same time if appropriate...


Spray onto a cloth or rag and wipe on.
Avoids any overspray if you prepare the cloth/rag away from that area.