Are there power transfer switches with various and diverse input types?

The issue, overall, is transfer architecture
The idea of a "universal transfer switch" per se doesn't exist, at least not in  the turn-key form you're after.  Why?  The issue is that multimode (grid-tied/off-grid switchable) solar systems use a different transfer architecture from standby generators.  In particular, if you have a standby generator (save for some exotic systems), you will never be running it in parallel with the utility's generation, so the transfer switches used with standby generators, whether it's a 6kW light-duty portable genset or a 600kW emergency generator at a hospital, are double throw switches that provide total isolation between the utility mains and the generator connection.
However, solar power systems in this day and age are expected to be able to deliver power to the grid when a grid connection is available.  In order to be able to do this when the grid is around, while still providing safety from backfeeding when utility power goes away, multimode solar systems use a single throw transfer means.  This can either be in the form of a dedicated box, such as the Backup Gateway used with the Tesla Powerwall system, or integral with some other part of the system, typically the inverter-charger used to manage the batteries in "open architecture" multimode systems using 24 or 48VDC battery banks.  While many of these inverter-chargers also support selecting a second AC input instead of the first, it does not change the overall thrust of the setup; namely, that when the transfer means is closed, the solar system is permitted to generate power in synchrony with whatever source is feeding the "mains" side of the inverter.
Trouble comes where neutral meets ground
A further issue comes from the fact that most portable generators are required to meet the OSHA specifications for construction use, which require neutral and ground to be bonded at the generator so that everything works as expected when you're using the generator as a sole source of power, say on a jobsite.  However, your house also supplies a neutral-ground bond at its main breaker panel (service disconnect enclosure), so in order to avoid trouble with parallel bonding means when you add the generator to the picture, you either need to

Remove the neutral-ground bond from the genset (something that's not always possible/provided for, and even when it is, creates a bit of a trap for someone who wishes to then use that generator for portable service), or
Use a transfer switch that switches neutral, thus isolating the generator's neutral/ground bond from the bond in your main panel and eliminating the problem.

However, while switched neutral manual transfer is quite feasible to achieve, switched neutral automatic transfer is quite hard.  In particular, while 3-pole double throw enclosed (UL98) switches are available at a reasonable price and a few switched neutral interlocked-breaker manual transfer panels (Eaton CHGEN...RSN, Reliance Controls PanelLink X, and some setups using Square D QO panels and parts)  also exist, single phase automatic transfer switches that are not made for RV use universally have solid neutrals, and so do most multimode inverters. In fact, there's only one UL 1741 compliant multimode inverter available on the market at the time of this writing, and that's the 120V version of the Victron MultiPlus/MultiGrid; however, that inverter has several downsides that make it difficult to use in North American applications, especially those involving multiple power sources:

It's 120V-only, requiring two inverters to be stacked for split phase service
It lacks a secondary AC input, unlike it's bigger brother (the Victron Quattro, which hasn't yet been UL 1741 tested/listed), or the competing solid-neutral UL1741 inverters for that matter
It only supports 24V DC, again unlike the Quattro, as well as the competing inverters from Outback and Schneider, which support 48V DC
Its listing itself is...questionable when it comes to US usage, as the test lab that listed it isn't OSHA-approved as a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (they're CSA-accredited, but that may not be good enough for your Authority Having Jurisdiction).

Permanent standby generators, of course, can be wired either with a bonded or a floating neutral without these issues, and are shipped in a floating-neutral configuration to allow use with stock two-pole residential transfer switches.
There is a glimmer of hope here though
The good news, though, is there is something that comes close to a "universal inlet" for most generators upwards of 8-9kW, whether they be light-duty portables or heavy-duty mobile generators.  In particular, while NEMA never wrote a standard for twist-lock receptacles and plugs over 30A, the State of California did, and it has become a de facto standard throughout the electrical industry for this application.  The resulting inlet for 120/240V split-phase applications is known as a CS6375, and is available either wrapped neatly in an inlet box from multiple manufacturers (Reliance Controls PB50, Eaton EGSPIB50, Midwest U050N, GE/ABB T050N), or as a kit that fits a 2.5" KO (Reliance Controls PI50).
While this limits you to pulling 50A at 240VAC from your generator, no matter what size it is, it's an adequate solution for most residential standby power needs.  (Larger commercial applications use single-pole cam-lock type connectors, but these require significantly more attention in handling than residential power inlets and outlets do, and thus are generally only used in environments where appropriate personnel training can be guaranteed.)


is it OK to lay an engineered wood floor that is 27' long without putting a T-joint in the middle to avoid buckling?

In my own personal experience of this, the floor is capable of enormous movement,
even if you undercut at the skirtings. Avoid long, expanses without expansion joints if possible. My floor used to rise, like a small hill, then open into canyons, dependent on the change in the weather and humidity. Remember too, being on edge, it's strong enough to push a wall down!


Unable to remove flush mount light fixture

I would bet that it is being held on by paint.
The two screws should be the only mechanical fasteners.
Take a utility knife and cut the paint line between the ceiling and the metal of the fixture and then use a thin scraper to push in between the ceiling and the metal of the fixture to pop it free.
If you have a Habitat for Humanity Restore or a home salvage store  you can go and look through their used fixtures


Is PEX exposed to the environment OK to use?

NO. PEX degrades in the presence of UV radiation. A few days exposure reduces its lifetime resistance to chlorine by 50%. Source: http://www.coengineers.com/preventable-problems-with-pex/


Is it ok to run a new a power line under the roof as opposed to the ceiling?

If there's no permanent ladder or stairs leading to the attic, you may be able to simply lay the cable across the rafters.

  "Where this space is not accessible by permanent stairs or ladders, protection shall only be required within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the nearest edge of the scuttle hole or attic entrance.".

  National Electrical Code

  Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials

  334.23 In Accessible Attics. The installation of cable in accessible attics or roof spaces shall also comply with 320.23.

  Article 320 Armored Cable: Type AC

  320.23 In Accessible Attics. Type AC cables in accessible attics or roof spaces shall be installed as specified in 320.23(A) and (B).

  (A) Where Run Across the Top of Floor Joists. Where run across the top of floor joists, or within 2.1 m (7 ft) of floor or floor joists across the face of rafters or studding, in attics and roof spaces that are accessible, the cable shall be protected by substantial guard strips that are at least as high as the cable. Where this space is not accessible by permanent stairs or ladders, protection shall only be required within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the nearest edge of the scuttle hole or attic entrance.

  (B) Cable Installed Parallel to Framing Members. Where the cable is installed parallel to the sides of rafters, studs, or floor joists, neither guard strips nor running boards shall be required, and the installation shall also comply with 300.4(D).

Article 300.4(D) says that if you do attach the cable to the ridge beam, you'll have to keep it 1 1/4" away from either edge.

  Article 300 Wiring Methods

  300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. Where subject
  to physical damage, conductors shall be protected.

  (D) Cables and Raceways Parallel to Framing Members
  and Furring Strips. In both exposed and concealed
  locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is
  installed parallel to framing members, such as joists,
  rafters, or studs, or is installed parallel to furring strips, the
  cable or raceway shall be installed and supported so that the
  nearest outside surface of the cable or raceway is not less
  than 32 mm (1 1⁄4 in.) from the nearest edge of the framing
  member or furring strips where nails or screws are likely to
  penetrate. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the
  cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by
  nails or screws by a steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent at least
  1.6 mm (1⁄16 in.) thick.


How can I repair a bathtub that is peeling?

A picture would be handy, but I am betting the tub was refinished in place with a spray on epoxy at the most or a harry homeowner kit at the least. Either way the warranty for both surfaces is limited. It may be able to resurface it again, but you see what the product will look like in a few years if it is possible to redo.

The most reliable way to solve the problem is to replace the tub. Or..... you might want to hire a tub reliner company, which will have limited life as well, in my opinion. I would do the replacement tub, not the "refitter"


Prevent water from overshooting gutter at corner roof valley?

I represented a company that installed roofs and gutters in NC for 4 years.  Your gutters are way too far below the shingles.  Judging from the pictures this looks like an older house and you may have some issues with how level the roof line is and perhaps that is why.  Ideally, you want the gutters touching the shingles on the high end and sloping down gradually to the downspout but not more than an inch below the shingles.  From the pictures, it looks like the water is missing the gutters entirely when it rains hard.

You have half round gutters, which tend to act as a "ski jump" if there is any velocity behind the water flow.  The way to reduce this is to use a diverter which is vertical piece of metal bent into a "L" shape with the bottom section about 3/4" wide and the vertical part about 4" wide.  It is screwed to the outer lip of the gutter.  I don't know if you can buy them, our guys just made them from scrap pieces of gutter.  They will trap snow and debris and you will want to clean behind them from time  to time.  The easiest way is with an old paint brush attached to one of those painters extension poles.

I suggest getting a well qualified gutter company involved.  You have half round gutters on open rafter tails which may require changing the brackets and there are a lot of different brackets to choose from.  You will want someone who knows what they are doing.  I doubt you will be able to eliminate the overshooting entirely, but you should be able to greatly reduce it so that in most storms it's fine.


GFI's have no power in both my bathrooms

Probably, this:  Modern Code says bathroom receptacle circuits must either a) power only loads in that bathroom, or b) power receptacles only in any bathroom.  And those receptacles must be GFCI protected.

My guess is your builder chose option (b), and installed a GFCI circuit breaker on that circuit, and put "GFCI protected" stickers on the bathroom receptacles.  Second, the homeowner tore off those stickers because they're ugly.  Third, they sold the house and some idiot real estate agent said "these don't look like GFCI receptacles, upgrade" and they did.

So now you have a GFCI (breaker) feeding a GFCI (outlet) possibly feeding another GFCI (outlet).  This is like an Escher drawing or a "yo dawg" meme.  Any ground fault or test will trip all of them up the chain.  Worse, some cheap GFCIs trip when power is disconnected!  So you must reset them in the correct sequence down the chain.

Go down to your breaker panel and I bet you find a breaker marked "bathroom" that has a "TEST" button on it.  (If there isn't a RESET, it is accomplished by turning the breaker off and on.)

Then, try resetting each of your downstream GFCIs.  Presumably one more will reset that wouldn't reset before.  Then find the next that will reset, etc.

For any GFCI, if this GFCI causes another GFCI to trip, then replace this GFCI with a plain receptacle with a "GFCI protected" sticker.

Use the salvaged GFCI receptacles to protect other circuits.


Can I install a main water shutoff up higher?

Normally the valve is installed as soon as possible upon entering the home, and the pipe enters low to protect it from freezing (at least in freezing climates.) The logic is that this minimizes the area where a fault can occur that you cannot shut off. The secondary logic is that you rarely need to shut off the main supply, so it need not be too convenient.

I do not know if anything is enshrined in code to that effect, but that's why it's done the way it's done. If you do what you propose, you have an extra 4 feet of pipe and an elbow that could fail with you having no way to shut the water off from inside the house.

If you feel strongly about it, there's nothing that would prevent you from installing a SECOND shutoff valve where you propose, leaving the original one where it is. Personally I like to set up secondary shutoffs to minimize inconvenience when things do need to be shut off - ie, have two, one of which leaves bathroom A functional, the other of which leaves bathroom B functional, so that (at least) one bathroom can be used when the water is shut off to the other half of the fixtures.


One light switch controlling multiple lights

I read your question and the many comments and answers. There is one answer [retired Master Electricians] and one comment [ Ed Beal's ] that I would advise to consider as they provide valuable insight to what could be wrong and specifically ed's comment that there is most likely a simple solution for your problem that you yourself can solve with a little knowledge of being safe with electrical wires and some direction. I add my own answer here to assist you as well.

I think this is what happened: someone rewired that specific switch and instead of placing the continuation wire in the wire nut on the supply line in, they placed it on the Load side of the switch. I will have a diagram of what I believe you have. And what you need to do. There is a SIMPLE FIX for this issue.

In regards to some other comments:
Being as your house was built in the 1950's and not the 1930's I do not believe you have switched neutrals. The reason this was banned was that people could be electrocuted just by installing a light bulb. I am not saying this is impossible but I do believe it was codified in the 1930's. A Big clue will be that the white wires are connected to the switch terminals. If this is the case you might want to have the whole house electrical system brought up to date for the sake of your safety.

What I believe is your issue with he solution below it :


You are testing hot (light socket center) to ground (housing screw) and getting 120 volts. How about between light socket center and light socket screw threads? This will test hot to neutral which is where you need the voltage. Assuming this is not near 120 volts, it sounds like your neutral (white) wire is not connected. You should probably take down the fan and test voltage between black and white wires or, better yet, reconnect the old light to test. Assuming this works, reconnect the fan, making sure the get good connections with the wirenuts.


Sash lock or casement window sash lock.
duckduckgo
I have seen them at the home improvement stores.
I call them a pain in the ***


When you say redo the entire bathroom does that just mean redo the sections of exposed wall? Because if it doesn't you should consider the opportunity to pull the old drywall entirely, replace it with a modern bathroom wallboard (such as densarmor or similar) and refinish the walls. Sanding and reskimming are messy and laborious, replacing the wallboardb would give you a better result and maybe afford more opportunities along the way.
But let's say you're not going to replace the wallboard.
You should sand them down aggressively. Get a mechanical sander that you can attach a vacuum or dust manager to.
Then you need to seal the walls. Old wallpaper walls are notorious. I recommend you use zinsser gardz for this (you can order it from big orange hardware store). Gardz penetrates and seals any residual wallpaper, adhesives, etc. Two coats will be safe even if not necessary. The second coat goes on fast so be careful of runs.
Then I would use an adhesion primer such as inslx stix (it's a Benjamin Moore product so should be able to find it at those retailers). Urethane primers are really sticky, but follow the directions carefully regarding dry and topcoat times. You may want to scuff sand this primer before topcoating it being very careful to clean all dust from the walls.
Then you can paint a bathroom paint over the urethane primer. Again, follow application and recoat timing instructions carefully.
After it dries and before recoating, vacuuming is your friend. Dust removal is important. It may feel like extra steps but it's nothing compared to your teardown and do-over.


From metal roof to composite shingles, mold and water issues?

Any moisture issues related to the standing water incident would have manifested itself long before now. Whatever the current issue is, it's unrelated to the previous issue. In that time, it is possible a new leak developed. It's also possible the dark areas are related to interior humidity and unrelated to the roof. In cold weather, the ceiling surface under rafters is measurably cooler than the nearby portion under insulation alone. This can cause condensation only under the rafters. As you know, condensation can lead to mold.

Can you tell if the darkening is due to actual mold? The damp surface can attract dirt that darkens the area even though no mold is growing. Even though the dirt can stain, attempting to clean an area with plain soap and water would yield a very different result than if mold is actively growing.

If mold is actively growing, it is time to consult with a mold professional. They will determine the cause, mitigate the mold, and suggest how to prevent it from happening again. If you want to investigate further before going that route, the only reliable way to determine if the rafters are getting wet is direct inspection.

Cut a small inspection hole where you think it's the worst. If it's wet up there, a lot more ceiling is coming off, so don't bother patching the hole. The roof is leaking. It needs to be repaired and all wet drywall and insulation needs to be replaced. If it's all dry, breathe a sigh of relief. The need to patch the hole is much less than it could have been. Be sure to adequately seal the damaged vapor barrier.

If the rafters are dry, the only thing you can do to reduce condensation on the ceiling is reduce the overall humidity of the house. First try selective ventilation and lifestyle adjustments. Consider bumping the thermostat up a bit. If that's not enough, look into continuous ventilation through an air to air heat exchanger.

A far as replacing stringers, that cannot be done with comp roofing unless a full cold roof is installed. It is normal practice for concealed structural spaces filled with insulation to not be ventilated. It sounds like the roofers followed conventional building practice.


Hot Water recirculation pump stuck when operating under water pressure

I think your pump head isn't enough to win both circuit head and circuit pressure. If the pump was designed to operate at this kind of load, then probably it has a burnt coil.


That looks like a mobile home door. I would drill that screw head off and simply move the hinge up or down a bit. You would only be able to see one screw hole and the door will still close fine. You could put some colored wood putty in the hole if it's unsightly to you. I've done that many times in the past.


How to fasten rotating pieces without self-tightening (or loosening)?

The bolt/nut configuration you show requires high friction against the joined members to maintain tightness.

You need independent locking of the nut. The most common method is to use two nuts. They are tightened against each other, rather than the captured articulating part.

An alternative is to use a nut locking compound (a sort of nut glue), and not fully tightening the nut, but the removable type will probably also eventually loosen, and the permanent type prevents easy disassembly.

I would also add a washer between the articulating arms or rotating parts.


Oven shuts down the power in the whole appartment when it heats up

Had an electrician over who confirmed that the oven and all the wiring in the apartment was in perfect condition. He was puzzled himself, then told to me to hang on and dialed some phone number and after 20 minutes on the phone he found the solution.

Turns out that the power company placed a limiter on my apartment's line because the new renter picked up the power service a bit later than the rules allowed. Basically if one renter stops his/her power service and there is no one who picks up the power service within few weeks, the power company (Epcor in Edmonton) places a limiter on the line. You still get the power at the apartment but if you exceed a certain power flow - the limiter shuts down the power in your unit. Here is more about this:
https://www.epcor.com/learn/meters/Pages/power-meter-limiters.aspx

Thank you all for your suggestions. Lesson learned.


Does live turf need insulation from roof heat?

A major benefit of a grass/turf or otherwise "green plants" or "living" roof is that you don't have the heat of a typical roof in the sunshine. Storm Water management is an additional benefit to the municipality. Both can result in significant financial incentives/tax breaks as a result.
"Needing to remove it when you move" sounds dubious - this is not a temporary thing easily rolled up and taken away, at least if it's done right. If you don't own the roof, it's unwise to get into this, and if you do own the roof, you sell the green roof with the building (or condo, I guess.)


It looks like somebody already tried to seal it in the past. You can pull, scrape the stuff off and re-caulk the seam. Just be careful not to dig a hole in the cutter, they are pretty soft.


Can I build a wooden floor over an occasionally moist garage slab with a drain?

Consider a subfloor system like DriCore.

These types of systems combine a subfloor base with a water barrier that has channels underneath to allow small amounts of moisture to drain or evaporate.

 Images and links for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


20 years old, it's almost certainly time for a new one unless it's of very unusual construction - like stainless steel.

If water:

  overflows from the top of the pipe onto the floor

Then the overflow pipe is not correctly routed - it should go DIRECTLY down to the floor. I can see it going sideways in the picture on your other question. It also appears to be reduced in size, which is a code violation, and if it's positioned so that water is held (trapped) in it, that's a code violation.

Many hot water heaters need an expansion tank to avoid over-pressurizing the PRV when heating a slug of cold water when no water is being used. Most PRVs are rather bad about resealing when they have been "exercised" a bit. Both of these may play into your problem.


Looking for a match to these cabinet doors

That is one cabinet maker's take on a mitered design. Mitered is a style (much like Raised Panel and Shaker are styles) but there would be hundreds... no, thousands of different variations within that style.
Cabinet makers attach many different names to their designs (sometimes the names don't even reference the basic style used). Your best bet to match would be to visit cabinet builders and suppliers in the area surrounding where these were found. Another option would be to take a door to a custom cabinetry shop near you. These shops can be found everywhere, you just don't know they're there until you start looking.


Cheapest way to screw in drywall close to a big hole without patching the hole

My cheap solution for small patchups, is to use a 6 or 7 inch piece of a paint stirrer stick.
Smear it with wood glue or construction adhesive and center it on your hole, inside the drywall, aimed where you might want to drive your screws.  A screw in the middle can be a handle.
You'll have to keep it place while it dries.  If you don't care about more holes, a drywall screw on either side will work.  Remove and patch when done.  Predrill though, as the sticks will split.   Or tie some string around the middle, and use another stick on the outside to hold it tight.


Mount horizontal 6" metal exhaust pipe to wall economically?

A cheap option, is hanger strap.

enter link description here http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/0f/0f824744-2554-4da0-91c2-cad95ee94416_300.jpg

It's available in both metal and plastic, and in various sizes.


Is it safe to use a battery charger to test the capacity of a non-rechargeable battery?

That charger device clearly states that it is for NiCd and NiMH rechargeable batteries only. It would be a risky proposition to put other batteries in that unit whether they be lithium or alkaline types. I think it would be just too easy to put the unit into the wrong mode.

What you want to do instead is get yourself a digital multimeter that can measure voltage of any battery that you may have laying around. These days you can pickup a suitable device that would fulfill your needs for a surprising low cost. Check out offerings on Amazon for example. The good thing about this approach is that you will find other uses for a digital multimeter once you have it and learn how to use it.


How do I trade the lights that these two light switches control with each other?

Your honest statement, "I have no experience with this kind of thing," is both refreshing and cautionary. Electricity can be dangerous. Most of us who dabble in it have learned a good bit by watching those who are much more experienced. When in doubt, call a pro (or at least a well-seasoned amateur). What follows is not a recommendation for you to proceed. Think about getting more experienced help.

The switches can be switched. How difficult it is depends on how they are presently wired.

The switch on the left, Switch A, has a full circuit in the box, that is, a hot, neutral and ground, which powers the outlet. Switch A above it is probably on the same line and works by interrupting the hot current to the light it controls, Light One. The neutral and ground that feed the outlet are probably tied in to the controlled light. The question is, where does the switch on the right, Switch B, and the light it controls, Light Two, get their power?

If Light Two gets its power (hot and neutral) directly from the box that contains Switch A, and the line to Switch B is just a two wire hot line that Switch B either connects or disconnects to Light Two (back through the box containing Switch A), then the lines in Switch A's box that control both lights can be swapped to reverse the switches.

If Light Two draws its power directly from the box on the right (rather than through the Switch A box), you cannot reverse the controls without running a new line.  The most likely solution is to open a channel in the wall between the two boxes and run a new line to Switch B. Then Switches A and B can be reassigned. The channel can then be patched with drywall tape and compound.

The way to tell whether you have the easy or the hard setup is look in the box containing Switch B.  If there is just one line with a black and white wire (and a bare ground), but no other wire, you have the easy setup.  If there are two or more lines in Switch B box, you have the harder setup.

Exactly how to swap the wires is a bit complex, and if you do not already know how to do this, you really should have help.


This is a non-trivial problem.

To be successful, you will have to determine the vibration frequencies emitted by the equipment under various conditions and do whatever it takes to dampen all those frequencies in the structure.

One strategy which is more likely to be successful than not is to place the mount points of the platform directly over load bearing supports all the way to the ground under the structure.  This could be through a series of walls which are aligned atop each other, but if there is any cavity above or below them, there is a set of frequencies at which that wall will vibrate the floor/ceiling of the cavity.  It would be hard to do that for more than two corners of the platform unless it is significantly oversized to reach a pair of walls.

Another technique would be to firmly attach plate steel (or similar) in the attic to the ceiling joists to a) change the resonant frequency and possibly b) dampen any vibration.  This is so hard to determine by engineering computer models that it is simply faster and more accurate to do it empirically:  That is, by trial and error.


Light bulb socket adapted to a 3 pin plug socket

Hire a handyperson to do this.  Or at least, turn off all power before doing any work, and get up to speed with electrical safety by reading a decent book on DIY home electrical.
The fixture almost certainly is attached to an octagon box.
Remove light fixture entirely.  Then install any common receptacle in this style of octagon box cover

and fit it up to the light's junction box.
If you run a ground wire to the receptacle, then you can mount the recep to the plate with just 1 screw (the middle screw).  You need the 2 outer screws if grounding is coming through hard metal-metal contact between plate and box.
If your octagon box is 1/2" too small for this type of plate, then you have a "3-1/2" size box, and that will require a very special plate that has (and includes) only 1 socket.


What kind of wall bolt/anchor is removeable?

Expanding sleeve anchors are probably not the best anchor to use for this - they use the bolt to secure the anchor in the hole.  Female drop in anchors would likely work much better, as they fasten independently of the bolt.

Note that they require a setting tool (although some brands I've used include the set tool in the box of fasteners).


What does blocking refer to in relation to floor joists?

Blocking typically refers to the structure that prevents the joists from twisting, which would be a concern over a load bearing beam. A solid piece of wood, often the same material as the joists themselves, is installed perpendicular to the joists without any gaps (e.g. I joists would use a piece of I joist for blocking). Two 2x4's installed in an X could also be done, and I've seen that with engineered joists, but check with your local building codes to be sure it complies.

I could also see blocking refer to additional vertical members (2x4's) to carry the load from the beam up to another load bearing object above the floor (e.g. a column). The last type of blocking I can think of would be fire blocking to prevent fire from traveling through the ceiling between parts of the home, though it's unlikely you'd see this requirement in a single family structure outside of a garage.

Like Tester101 says, call the inspector and ask for clarification, they should be happy to provide it.


Converting electric receptacle with one hot and two neutral wires to GFCI

You have a multi-wire branch circuit, which is where two line wires (your red and black wires, on opposite legs of your service) are allowed to share a single neutral (white) wire.
The wires that come out of the upper-right conduit should go to your panel; the conduit on the bottom hole should continue on to some other load.
You should measure 120V across the black and white wires that come out of the upper-right conduit. If there is no load at all completing the other circuit, you’d see no voltage between the black wire and the white wire from the bottom conduit. But if there is some load on the other side, you’ll see 240V.
Two things you should fix:

The two circuit breakers serving this multi-wire branch circuit should be handle-tied (or use a two-pole breaker) so you can’t have a live neutral wire in this box when only half of the circuit is off.

The neutral should be pigtailed so that removing the receptacle doesn’t interrupt neutral to the other half of the circuit. The two white conduit wires should be wire-nutted together with a third short piece of white wire that goes to the receptacle.

Then connect the white pigtail and the black wire to the “line” side of your new GFCI receptacle. Don’t connect anything to its “load” side.


I got down there and did some further digging and research.  Come to find out it was the plastic tubing that provides water internally to my fridge that was leaking where it connects to the piece in the image in my OP.

Fortunately, the plastic water line was only attached by a tension ring (apply some pressure and pull the line out) and I removed the water line, provided a new clean cut, and reattached and everything is fine and dandy again.


Do you really *have* to mortise for hinges and other door hardware?

Well, let's take hinges for example. They typically have plates 3 or more millimeters thick and with two such plates it means you need a 6 millimeters gap between the door and the frame to accomodate the hinges. Do you really want a 6 millimeters gap? It will conduct noise, let unwanted cold/hot air through the door, it'll be very easy to put a crowbar and break the door open.

If you don't care of having a huge gap - no problem, you can install hinges without making mortises for them.


That's exactly how it would be left if someone removed the switch.   When the switch was there, the two blacks went to the switch, and the whites and grounds were spliced just like that and pushed into the back of the box.

After removing the switch, if they wanted to emulate the switch being on, they would have spliced the blacks together.  If they wanted to emulate the switch being off, they'd do what they did.

That may be because they removed the fixture and did not want hot going somewhere it did not need to be.


I'm very sorry to say this but you're going to have to remove all the tiles and start over.  You will never been able to prevent this from leaking fully.

It may also mean removing and replacing the backing as well.

The critical step you missed was the waterproofing membrane that goes under the tiles and in and over the drain pipe.  The tiles don't stop the water at all but are for aesthetics only (and to protect the water proofing). What makes the shower water tight is a sturdy backing covered with a water proofing membrane like liquid flash (one I used) when I did my tile shower. http://www.constructionchemicals.com.au/products/waterproofing-membranes/

But there are many different brands.  They are a paint on product and very easy to install.

Don't expect your tiles to be waterproof. At best they are only splash resistant. Water goes right through the grout and can also enter around the side of the tile where the grout is.  Porcelain tiles aren't quite as porous as ceramic, but most wall tiles are ceramic because they are a lot lighter.  These tiles act like a wick and just draw the water through to the back of them.  If you don't fix this you could be in for some serious mould issues down the track.

Unfortunately there is no simple fix to this but to start over. I would not recommend just trying to seal it.  It's like covering up rotten wood with paint, it won't last and won't fix the problem long term.  Although you've got water resistant plasterboard.  It won't last long term.  These plasterboards are just designed to repel water to keep it out of the gypsum they are made of, not designed to be constantly wet.

Interesting construction that your builder used water treated plasterboard + chipboard for the construction.  6mm or 1/4 in thick concrete based tile & slate underlay board + waterproofing membrane is all you would have needed.  I wouldn't recommend tile on plasterboard at all.  Even with the layers that he has.  It's not as strong.

Since I know how much work goes into these DIY tile showers I will say this.  If you feel overwhelmed, call in an expert.  They will have the job done in a week and you'll be able to move on with life.  But if you're up for the challenge and want to learn to do it right this time, then dive in and go for it!


You wouldn't put a heating duct outside your house, so why would you put one in a vented attic?

Since your furnace and ducts are in your attic -- I see only one sane option here, and that's to insulate the roof, forming an unvented, conditioned attic.  Don't skimp on the insulation here -- I would use lots of R-value, R-50 at a minimum, to keep any snow that may get on the roof from melting and refreezing into an ice dam.

In general, this is most often done with open cell spray foam applied to the underside of the deck, but this can also be done by applying at least two layers of foamboard with the joints staggered in both directions to the roof deck and then putting an overdeck over the top of the foamboard, creating an assembly much like a commercial compact roof, as in the illustration below (from the Building Science folks).

Furthermore, I would make sure that there's air exchange between the attic and the rest of the system, so the attic doesn't turn into a hot, wet, condensing mess during the summer.

See BSI-046: Dam Ice Dam and BSI-077: Cool Hand Luke Meets Attics for more details.


How can I install standard outlets on a 30A #10 multi-wire branch circuit?

Subpanel Time!
You can't run any 15A or 20A devices (e.g, 15A or 20A receptacles or light fixtures designed for 15A or 20A circuits) on the 30A breakers. But you can install a subpanel. This will let you put as many things as you want on the circuit. From a practical standpoint, you could definitely put a subpanel with 4 x 15A circuits (15A x 2 = 30A on each leg) but you could actually install more - e.g., 6 x 15A or 4 x 20A or some other combination. That is because the 30A limit is based on the total simultaneous usage. Since most of the time most of the smaller circuits will have very little use (e.g., a lighting circuit might pull only 1A for LEDs to light up the whole garage), this can work very well. About the only thing you wouldn't want to put on this subpanel is a heavy 240V load like a water heater or air conditioner.
The subpanel can be any size 30A or larger. As I understand it from other Q&A, in an attached garage you generally don't need a main breaker in the subpanel, but it is OK (and often convenient) to have one, and it can be any size - larger than 30A is perfectly fine as it functions here as a switch and protection for the subpanel but not for the wires back to the main panel. Ground and neutral not bonded in the subpanel. And don't forget GFCI - most garage circuits will need to have GFCI protection.


Shower makes loud squealing noise at lower settings

You should start by opening up the unit and replacing the bibb washers. When worn they can vibrate and cause unholy squeals.


I am painting my deck with metacrylics paint do I need to clean between coats of paint

The only reason you would need to clean between coats is if you couldn't finish the job and had to wait so long that the deck got dirty again.  If you're putting the second coat down right after the first is cured, and you haven't had a dirty rain or anything, you should be fine.

Other than that, follow the manufactures instructions for a second coat.  Some products might not require you to wait for a full cure to recoat.


What are my options to replace a sliding glass door screen?

Guardian is the manufacturer of the glass itself, but not the door assembly.  See http://www.guardian.com/en/na/gd_002563.html

I think the key to finding the proper sliding screen is going to be finding out the manufacturer of the assembly.  Have you looked all around the door frame for a nameplate?


Unfortunately there is no quick-and-easy fix for this.  It's a result of a poorly designed home layout.
If you simply remove the inset for the stairs you will, as you note, remove the clearance for the stairs going down and you will likely create a situation where your stairway no longer meets code.
The right way here would be to relocate the stairs so that they no longer intrude on the kitchen cabinet space or to relocate the kitchen wall so that the stairwell intrusion is removed.
The simplest solution would be to do what the earlier cabinet installer did, cut away the backside of the cabinet to fit over the stairway and just live with the reduced capacity.
As I said, no easy solutions.  Either live with it or fix it.  The choice is up to you.


This is fairly easy since you have that big header holding the roof up. You would remove the stucco on the header, at the bottom I would probably pull the trim exposing the frame of that short wall. Then I would build a wall with the opening for your window in the space and stucco the outside, once that is sealed up you could open the wall of the bathroom and remove the stucco then finish the floor to ceiling wall inside the porch area, since you are not modifying a load bearing wall you may not need a permit, that is one of the qualifications for getting a permit in my area. But this looks like it is a good idea to me. Check with your building codes department.


How do I clear a drain pipe clogged with dried soap?

Moving water, preferably hot. If you can get a small flow that
doesn't back up then it will dissolve away easily.
Environmentally safe degreaser/cleaner, I prefer Simple Green
Baking soda and vinegar, it will clean almost any small clog. With something that dissolves easily like soap, the extra air bubbles produced will help getting it clean with less passes as well.


You cannot permanently cover over the box, it must remain "accessible".  Unless of course, you find the other ends of these cables and disconnect them. But then I suspect some things would stop working, as it looks like this feeds power through to the rest of the circuit.


Connecting braided water connector with 1/2" female connection to 3/4" male tub inlet

You need special adapters built for older tubs that use the old style bathcocks. If you go to a plumbing shop (not big-box hardware store) and ask for "claw-foot tub faucet adapters" they will probably know exactly what you are looking for:


How can I use a Z-wave switch as a 3-way with no neutral?

I recently had a 3-way replaced with a Z-wave combination from Leviton (R02-DZS15 and VP0SR-10Z). The switch requires constant communication with the hub and thus needs power. If you look carefully at the wiring diagram for the Z-wave switches, you will notice that there is a live+neutral powering the switch and a circuit breaking wiring to the light to turn it on-off. Thus, IMHO, you cannot have a Z-wave switch without a neutral wire. Fortunately, in my case there was a neutral wire in one of the boxes and the electrician was able to pull one to the other box.

Trust me once you set the z-wave switch with a hub and program it to work, the additional cost of fishing a neutral wire will be really worth it.


We just bought a house and the guest bathroom has an awful smell coming from the toilet, how can we figure this out?

When I bought my home I had a similar problem and I found out that the wax seal at the bottom of the toilet had deteriorated. When I replaced it and cleaned up the goo around the bottom of the toilet then the problem disappeared. But the above answer can also pose the same problem but once it has been eliminated I would also check for the wax seal at the bottom of the toilet.


How should I connect wiring for this ceiling light?

Thanks for all your help folks. With a little help from a multimeter I was able to confirm that the smaller brown was indeed switched-live, and the two with the sleeves indeed neutral and live. I've just terminated the live and wired the switched-live and neutral to my new fitting. I guess the intention with the live is, as some people have suggested, for ceiling fan, or might also come in handy for smart home stuff like Philips Hue lightbulbs that always need power.
I've selected Ed Beal's answer because it contains the solution I found.

If only 1 switch cap 1 of the hots and see if the other is hot with the power on swap hots as needed with only 1 switch and cap or cover the other for safety


How can I mount heavy stuff on wooden studs?

The hardware needed will likely be dictated to some degree by the manner in which the shelves are supported and how much weight the shelves are being asked to support. A  true floating shelf will often use a french cleat as Keshlam suggested, often in this situation an aluminum version called called a Z-clip.
This shows the short, clip style but it's available in 8' lengths too that you would cut to the length you need.

These are easy to install and can hold some pretty extreme weights (the exact load maximums will be listed on the package or the website tech sheet) but the shelf has to be thick enough to encapsulate the thickness of the brackets plus the distance required to engage the two halves, plus some room for a lip top and bottom. Like so:

The good news is these are available in many sizes and can be found in most home centers or online for a reasonable price. The (possibly) bad news is you'll almost certainly have to make or at least modify a shelf to suit your needs. As far as hardware is concerned in general: use a good quality wood screw that gets at least 2" of bite into the shelf and on every stud that you can catch (you may have to enlarge the countersink to accept a larger screw head or drill some new holes to suit the spacing of your walls substructure) into both the shelf and the stud side. Unless your trying to support an unreasonable amount of weight you should be okay.

Of course you can always just pick up a store bought floating shelf. Most come with a lightweight keyhole style hanger (seen here)

but will still hold a fair amount (not much though). As for screws, they're often included with the kit but the same rules apply as previously discussed so if you buy a shelf package from Ikea or wherever and it comes with inch long screws or those plastic drywall anchors, do yourself a favor and go buy some real screws to mount it.


Is This Basement Window Frame Structural

No standard 50s wooden window frame is supposed to be structural. The rough frame of a window can be, but you don't have one.

It doesn't matter. You have a situation that requires a metal lintel. Brace the floor up just to be safe (I wouldn't work under those joists without something), install a lintel and then the window. Avoid lowering the bottom sill anywhere close to below grade if possible.

If I have to explain how to brace a floor up, install a lintel, or whether or not you need to do any of those things, it might be best left up to a professional.


Can I improve the water pressure by changing from 1/2" to 3/4" pipe?

Do you have a pressure reducing shower head?  Increasing the size of the pipe will reduce friction losses and result in slightly more pressure - my impression is the effect wouldn't be large.

How much more pressure are you hoping to get?  Do you know the water pressure for your house?

Are your pipes currently copper or pex?  Switching to pex and avoiding 90s would probably do more to reduce friction than simply upsizing your pipe.


Demolishing a shed floor made of plywood. Can I use circular saw?

A circular saw can be used to plunge cut into flooring cut out sections for repair/access.  I don't see how this would be any different.  Just make sure you adjust the blade depth for the width of the plywood.so that you don't hit anything that might be under the shed (support beams/metal/concrete/small animals too stupid to move/etc).


Can I replace 4" fiberglass batts with thicker ones in my attic?

I'm not an expert in this area but this is what I would do. If the ceiling joists are only 2x4s I would not use batts that are higher than the joists themselves and then run the additional batts perpendicular. This would leave a significant gap allowing hot/cold area to infiltrate from the sides. I would just put in the R13 in the empty bays and then run the R30 perpendicular to this. This way you have no air gaps.

If you blew in you would eliminate all this and actually get better coverage and fill then you would with batt insulation. If you don't mind paying for someone to blow in, they would be done in a few hours and the blow in type I've had done isn't itchy so if you go up in the attic and need to push it around you aren't feeling like all prickly later. I have a two story so I had to go up in the attic with a small leaf rake to clear some of the eave vents. Since you are single story you may be able to take a leaf blower and blow any insulation from the vents from the outside.


Is adhesive to sister a pressure treated deck joist necessary, and if so what kind?

I'd be using stainless steel deck screws or stainless steel lag screws.


Is it worth using non-VOC or low-VOC interior paint?

Just as an FYI, if you're going to heavily color the paint, be aware that a lot of tints are not low-VOC. From this site

Low or no Voc (Volatile Organic Compound) house paints are great, since they have little odor and limit harmful chemicals in the air. But tinting the paint often defeat the purpose by adding unwanted VOCs back into the paint.
To make sure the air in your home is VOC-free, use factory tinted no VOC paint, or paints that use a VOC-free colorant


If you only have the red/black at the switch you won't have constant power. You also need the neutral or white wire from the outlet. Most of the time the black is the hot and the red is the switched leg. If there are white and ground in the back of the switch box take them and the black to the motion light black to black, white to white and ground to ground. If the red is hot the light won't light so you will need to swap the red and black in the switch box. A non contact voltage tester will light on the hot wire with the switch in the off position.


Big hole in front of mailbox from mail truck how can I fill it?

Not dirt, ideally. But you can use dirt if you can't get better material.

Better material would be crushed rock, ideally the sort that has all the fine dust from crushing still in it. Rock without fines can also work, but is less ideal.

Biggest problem with "filling a hole" most people have is the fact that you will lose (as you have seen) if you just put stuff in the hole you have. It will be saturated by any standing water, and it will be looser than the hole, and will get shoved back out of the hole easily with traffic.

So, let's look at what you could do differently for the poorest but most available fill - the dirt you have right there. You want to dig out the area of the hole you have to (at least) the full depth of the deepest part of the hole over the whole area of the hole, and somewhat beyond. Then you fill the hole with dirt - but not all at once. Put in an inch or two of dirt, and compact it throughly - don't use a large tamper (ie the common 10x10 square you probably don't own and would be wasting money to buy) - use something like a sledgehammer held head-down, handle vertical, and lifted and dropped over the whole area until it's all compacted. A 2x4 stud (inexpensive) is also effective used the same way (lift and drop on the end.) Then add another inch or two and repeat. In theory a high-heel dance party in high heels you don't mind getting dirty could also work, but it's not one I've tried. Physics says it should work, though.

If you "upgrade" to crushed rock or gravel, you'll want to add a layer of (ideally, but difficult to get in small quantities) geotextile to keep the dirt below from "eating" your rock fill. Probably the closest thing to geotextile commonly available in small amounts is weed-block fabric or filter fabric. The idea is that water should drain through but your rock is not pushed down into the dirt below. Otherwise the tamping is similar.

In both cases you do want to build up slightly, because tamping is good, but not perfect, and also because removing standing water greatly reduces the progression of holes from wheels, while allowing even a small puddle to develop quickly grows as water and dirt splash out. Running your own car smoothly back and forth over the patch (without stopping as the mail-truck does) will also help to compact it. If you do see it starting to puddle, fill it back in sooner rather than waiting for it to get worse (it won't get better by itself.)


Your easiest bet will be a cross between 1 and 3
Your easiest and simplest bet is a cross between approach 1 and approach 3, using a subpanel with a breaker interlock between the two breakers in it to keep you from overloading the feeder by running both kilns at once.  The good news is Siemens, Square-D QO, and Eaton all have fairly nice interlock kits available now, and for decent prices too, while a basic subpanel (you could get away with a 4, 6, or 8 space unit here since you aren't going to want to feed general load from this panel) isn't expensive either.


Is it allowed for a wire to go directly into a wall from PVC conduit (with some connector)? Or do I need to install a junction box?

Generally speaking, wires within reach need to be protected. Above 9 feet is out of reach, doesn't need to be protected, so conduit not required. If you use conduit then you can use separate wires. If you don't use conduit then you use cable - normally non-metallic cable, aka Romex.
However, you do not normally need GFCI on permanently wired lighting (except above a tub or shower or certain other places). In fact, if you want to GFCI-protect a ceiling receptacle, you can't install a GFCI/receptacle in that location because the GFCI has to be easily accessible. At the same time, if the receptacle is only used with out-of-reach stuff (e.g., ceiling lighting or fan) then you don't need GFCI anyway, though local code may vary.
As far as conduit through the wall, I am pretty sure that is fine, but one of the experts will speak up if there is a problem. In fact, I suspect it is the opposite - running loose wires (as opposed to cable) outside conduit, even just to go through a wall, is not allowed.


How can I trim around an electrical outlet?

Settled on going through the trouble of carrying the bevel around the outlet. It's not what I would have done if I had the foresight to move and rewire the boxes, but it's the best option with what I have now.

It should look better with a coat or two of paint. ;)
Thanks for the input guys!


Proper reinforcing of electrical box on drywall

Since the box is so far off the stud, my suggestion is to take that existing box off and put an old work double gang in. It secures to the drywall and should fit easily since the stud is far away.

Trying to nail the box in further is pointless since the drywall is up.


Color matching: repaired white oak flooring turned out pink

Natural wood, even within a given species, can have a range of color tones. You can see this even in the old boards, none of which are exactly the same color. Some are more blonde, some are more grey, etc.
White oak can turn pink shortly after milling. However, this color should have gone away long before the board was delivered as flooring. Red oak on the other hand will retain some degree of pink. So one thing to double-check is to make sure that a red oak board didn't get mixed in accidentally with the flooring package. Seems unlikely, but worth ruling out, and if so, I can believe that there could be the occasional "outlier" white oak board that shows up a bit on the pink side.
See e.g. https://wunderwoods.wordpress.com/2011/11/03/the-white-oak/ and https://www.v3-usa.com/learn/red-oak-white-oak-species-part-1/.
You might also contact the manufacturer and see if they can help provide alternative boards from the same product line that are better matches.
That said, from your photos it seems like with a stain, the pink tones are significantly diminished. So I wouldn't worry about that part too much.
The bigger issue is that like many woods, the color of oak changes over time. In the case of white oak, you'll find it develops more amber tones as it ages. This may be the primary cause for the difference you're seeing. I.e. the pink tones will diminish over time while amber tones become more prominent.
See e.g. https://vermontwoodsstudios.com/content/oak-wood and https://www.kahrsflooring.com/en-us/wood-flooring/wood-facts/.
You can try to fix that with the stain now, but that might result in the board going too far in the amber/yellow direction as it ages. I would aim for a "happy medium" where you choose a stain that helps reduce how noticeable the pink is a bit, but not entirely, and allow the aging process to eventually help the board blend in better over time. If you can stand it, just use the exact same original stain, and in a few years the difference is likely to be almost unnoticeable.
It's not much help after the fact, but some people purchase extra flooring when the product is first installed, specifically to account for color variation and the effects of the aging process, just in case some of the flooring needs replacing later.


Determining if a foundation is moving or shifting?

Cracks are caused by 1) changing climate conditions, 2) soil movement

1) Where you live, I doubt the climate changes much from season to season. You do not have a freeze/thaw issue.

2) Soil movement can be caused by adjacent property movement, expansive soils or tidal/moisture fluctuations.

Look around your property and see if a neighbor has been moving dirt or if the city just installed a new sewer/water line in your area. (Even a new fence can cause problems if an auger was used and hit a tree root, pipe, etc.)

Florida is known for having soil problems and often the ground will swallow whole houses. I doubt you live in a soil area that has “decaying” soil like Florida. However, if the developer cut down trees before building your house, the stumps could have rotted and left large holes in the ground that allows sluffing and ground movement.

If you live in a high water table area, tidal action or seasonal rains can cause ground movement.

However, the most likely cause is expansive soils. That is to say, when your dirt gets wet and when it dries out, it expands or contracts. The amount of movement is directly related to the amount of moisture in the ground.

If you’re concerned, you can keep a journal noting season, rainfall, and what changes, (i.e.: doors rub, cracks open up, etc. )

if problems are only in the southwest corner of your house, that would be good to know when it comes time to fix it.


Installing 15" deep wall cabinets on a 14" deep soffit

If the cabinets are deeper than the soffit, you have a "shelf" above the cabinets then. That would collect dust and cooking grime and be a pain to clean IMHO, let alone promote a spot for spider webs and the like. I would add a couple of sheets of Sheetrock on top the soffit wall, tape and cover it and make it all flush.


Personally I would go to Lowes or Home Depot and get the more conventional older style toilet siphon kit.  You know with the flapper, fill valve, etc.
I am not familiar with the siphon you now have.  Looks like some kind of internal failure of this piece of equipment.  I am not a plumber, but have repaired a many toilets in my time.  Just a suggestion.  Good luck.


Kobalt Weed Eater unspools immediately on running

Your problem is most likely related to not getting the spring and spool stops inside the spool housing assembled correctly. A spring is normally used to keep the spool pushed up against a clutch or stop mechanism. An auto feed system disengages the spool from this clutch/stop as the spool is spinning allowing a length of the plastic line to unwind off the spool. In correct operation the spool would only rotate part of a turn and then engage the next stop or clutch position. In your instance the spring may be missing or it is being installed in a manner that pushes the spool permanently away from the clutch/stop mechanism.

From the operator instructions that you linked the line feed mechanism on this trimmer is automatic at the time the unit starts up. It indicates that the line is supposed to come out 1/4 inch at the time the spool starts up. The mechanism that limits the spool advance, which in this case could be some type of spiral engagement mechanism or centrifugal clutch, may be full of dirt or other debris that keeps it from locking the spool in position as the unit spins up.

So based upon that take a close look at how the spool mechanism is meant to work and then make sure to remove all dirt and debris - including something than may have wound up on the shaft inside the spool housing.


Can I operate a 120v 60 hz sewing machine with a 220v 50hz power supply?

General rule of thumb is that transformers must be run at the proper frequency they were designed for. Professor CP Steinmetz worked out why AC transformers burned up and enabled Westinghouse and the world to enjoy the use of Teslas work on AC motors and power transmission because he determined that the alloy used in transformers and motor electromagnetic circuits was very critical in controlling hysteresis (the resistance to iron changing magnetic polarity) so they wouldn't overheat.

Motors are just another form of transformer so any inductive type motors must also be run at the proper frequency to prevent overheating and run at the proper speed.

That being said, in a sewing machine, you usually have a special case as it typically is powered by a brushed universal motor which is a whole lot less sensitive to the frequency issue due to the design. Its speed is dependent on voltage and current allowed through the device and the magnetic path alloys are specifically designed for this.

So to sum it up, don't run your refrigerator on the wrong frequency (uses an inductive motor), you probably can run your sewing machine on the lower frequency (uses universal brushed motor). You will need a 50Hz transformer to step the voltage down!

The heating affects from magnetic path hysteresis are worse when running 60Hz equipment on 50Hz.


Can I put a fan control switch on a window air conditioner to quiet it down

Assuming the motor for the AC fan is of the proper type, "shaded pole" or "PSC", then yes, if you opened up the unit and tapped-in to the fan control circuit itself.  This device would not work if you tried to power the entire AC unit from it.

I suspect, however, that the motor is neither of the above types.  Further, you are looking at significant safety risks by modifying a self-contained AC unit in this way.  It would certainly void any manufacturer warranty and may also create a safety hazard.

Most window AC units I've seen have a built in speed control.  Is there some reason why you can't just use what is designed into the unit?


It sounds like you lost a phase from your utility.  If you have overhead supply, that is the likeliest possibility.  You could open up the panel and check the breakers, but if you call the power company, the visit will be free and fast (assuming you didn't just have a windstorm, ice storm or other mass-outage event).

Ideally you would get all dead 240V appliances and all dead 120V appliances on one pole.  What actually happens is (from the 240V appliance's perspective) one leg is connected to neutral via your 120V appliances, and (from the 120V appliance's perspective) their hot wire is connected to the other hot wire via the 240V appliances.


How do I wire a switch with 9 wires in the box?

Any thoughts?

Plainly something is messed up.

I have many times taken apart a switch and discovered that the previous homeowner was creative in their choices. A recent one: white was hot and black was neutral, ground was open, the switch was wired to interrupt the neutral, the white wire from the lamp was connected to the black wire from the wall, and there were two reds, one of which was hot and one was neutral. Oh, and everything was held together with tape, and the wires were all three inches long. Nightmarish. It took me probably an hour to figure out what everything was and correctly label everything so that I could safely change the light fixture. It will take you longer than that in this situation, so be patient.

If something is messed up step one is assume nothing.  Or rather, assume that whoever created this mess knew nothing about electrical code and that everything is about to catch on fire. Proceed carefully and methodically, forming hypotheses, testing them, and recording your results.

It sounds like you've started sensibly: determine which are the hots, and, equally importantly, which breakers control the hots. It might be two different breakers, and they might be 240 V apart from each other as a result.

It is particularly important to figure out if one of your two hots is switched somewhere else. I have occasionally wired up circuits where the black wire is "always on", the white wire -- recoloured red with tape -- is switched somewhere else.

Also, be on the lookout for other errors. Is one of the circuits switched on the neutral, for example?  Again, assume that it is wrong until you prove that it is right.

Once you know that the power is shut off completely, put a piece of tape on every wire and number them so that you can record your findings. Do not trust your memory; it is very easy to be distracted.

Check each ground to see if it is open (not connected back to the panel) or closed. Do this by obtaining a known good hot wire, like from an extension cord plugged into a working, correct outlet that you've tested with an outlet tester. If there is a voltage between the known hot and the ground then the ground is closed, if not, then it is open.

If you have three open grounds then you have a problem; your safety system is put together wrong. Solve that problem.

The closed ground is probably the one that goes back to the panel. Not guaranteed; it could be attached to a pipe somewhere or some such nonsense. (Remember, the person who got you in this mess was a bozo who doesn't wire things correctly.)  But this is evidence that the wires with the closed ground are the wires from the panel.

Regardless, attach all the grounds together. Now you at least know that the grounds are good.

Next, identify which wires are really hot and really neutral -- it sounds like you are well on your way here already. Again, figure out which ones are open and closed. Remember, there might be no potential difference between two hots. Test every wire against a known ground to determine if it is a closed hot, and the rest test against a known hot to determine if they are closed or open neutrals.

Now, for your situation where there is allegedly a white hot wire. If that is the case, first of all, label the wire correctly by wrapping black, blue or red tape around the wire to warn future generations that this is hot.  Next, figure out where the other end of that wire is so that you can see if that thing is miswired.

How do you figure out where the other end of a wire is? First, make sure there is no power to it. You can do this with a continuity tester; you can buy one, or build one yourself out of a flashlight and some scrap wire easily enough.  This will let you identify where all the wires you've not yet identified actually go to.

Suppose you suspect that a black wire goes to a light fixture. Take apart the light fixture and find what looks like the other end of the black wire. Join the light fixture end of the black wire to a second piece of wire, and run the end of that second piece of wire to the box. Now disassemble a flashlight, hook up one end of the circuit to the battery, the other to the bulb, you see how this goes I'm sure, and see if you can turn on the light. If you can, then your hypothesis is correct; you have found two ends of the same black wire.

Keep doing that until you have correctly identified every wire in the box. At that point it should be straightforward to correctly label the wires if any are mislabeled, and rewire the box. Once you do, test the heck out of everything that is attached to that box to make sure that there aren't similar oddities downstream.


How do I get the fluorescent bulb out of this fixture?

I've seen some units where the bulb wasn't designed to be replaced. Based on your photo, that may be the case here. Units with replaceable fluorescent bulbs have a "twist-in" connector on either end that's visible after you remove the cover. You may need to buy a new unit and replace the fixture. I would buy a double bulb unit, since those are almost always replaceable.


Finding nails and staples all over yard after roof replacement

Unfortunately it is not uncommon for workers to be less than careful or less than thorough in clean up. (nor could i say it is common)
Is it "normal" ?  There is no way to answer that question.
If they were "trying" to do a clean up then it would seem that  there is a company policy in place to do it but maybe it was not executed properly.
Magnet sweeper


Light fixture goes out just before flush to ceiling

For folks reading this in the future: I have also found that, with 3 or more wires, sometimes the wire-nut does not screw on all the way, leaving some of the bare wire exposed. May not always be easy to see. Then, when tightening the cover, it shorts out.  $0.02


How do I remove the mounting hardware of an intercom speaker, and then patch the hole?

I wouldn't try removing the frame. It appears to extend in both directions and may damage a larger section of wall.

You are right to be concerned about taping compound or spackle sticking to a metal edge. I would recommend making a patch that is larger than the opening by about an inch on each side. Then trim away the back paper and the core of the patch so that the part being put into the wall is the exact size of the hole. That will leave you with a "flange" of paper facing on hte room side that will be easier to tape and compound to blend it in.

Your general approach to support is right, but you may not need a brace between the studs.
To support the patch, cut three pieces of 1x2 wood that are about 6 inches longer than the height of the opening.  Position each piece of wood vertically in the cavity, one near the  left side of the hole, one in the middle, and one near the right. To attach each strip pull it forward against the back of the plaster or plasterboard. Hold it in place by screwing through the face of the wall into the top and bottom sections of the wood strip. You can screw the plasterboard patch to these strips for support.

Finish the attachment with tape and taping compound. I would probably use mesh tape on a patch of this size and support.


"Drain knockout is easy to remove with pliers" –siouxchief.com

No they're not. You need to use a utility knife. This should have been done before it was installed. I'm unfamiliar with that type, because it looks like it has a stub that you can cut open, shove the hose over it, and use a hose clamp. (?)

Usually you just cut it out, tracing the inside of the circle, and shove the hose down in there. You're sure there's a (2") drain pipe connected to it inside the wall, right? DO NOT over cut the circle or you'll ruin the box. Start small if you're unsure. Be careful; don't cut yourself.


The cheap way is to just go the local Big Box store and get a small bag of mortar for concrete.  Mix it up apply to the bottom and in the crack.  For mortar, setting times is in hours.
A better way, is to use a concrete epoxy like this. For the epoxy, the setting times may be as short as 15 minutes.  The epoxy is also mixed, but time between mixing and setting up is short. So make sure you have remove all the loose dirt, dust, etc from the stairs and you are ready to apply the epoxy after mixing.
Apply with cheap plastic putty knife.  The epoxy will be thick and heavy.
You might do this in two session.  Do the bottom first to set the piece in place and level.  After the epoxy has dried.  then mix a second batch and apply to the crack on top and side and bottom seam.


How to find source of dripping drain pipe?

Check all the tanks that hold water - they will have overflows in case of overpressure or in case an old fill-valve starts to fail to close completely.

If the plumbing system has header tanks for cold and/or hot-water, these have overflows for when the fill-valve gets old and fails to close completely. Also lavatory cisterns have overflows for the same reason.

Water heaters that work with a pressurised supply also have pressure relief valves to vent excess pressure.

All of these can either vent to the outside or to an internal drain.

So I would ask someone to watch the outside pipe while I go around and cause water to come out of each overflow/vent one by one. In lavatory cisterns you can probably hold a float-valve underwater to cause the water to rise above the entrance of the overflow pipe.

It's quite likely to be a lavatory cistern. A slow "leak" on the fill valve won't cause a problem if the toilet is in regular use. It's only when it hasn't been flushed for a long time that the "leak" can cause the level in the tank to eventually reach the overflow level.


How to prevent small birds from getting trapped inside open double-hung windows?

The standard approach to sealing the top of the lower sash raised for the AC is a foam strip placed between the outward facing uper edge of the inner sash and the outer glass pane.

This gap is on the inside of the house.

The birds you mention must be getting in through the lower gap between the lower rail of the upper sash and the glass pane on the inside sash.  There is no reason you could not use the same type of foam insulator on the outside (assuming you can safely reach the window).  While this is not a hard barrier that will prevent a forceful assault by a determined attack bird, it probably will be enough to discourage the accidental intruder.

The foam will likely deteriorate much more quickly outdoors, but should last a  season.


Anti-Vibration mats for top loading washer?

Yes they work.  They distribute weight across a wider area and also act as shocks.

However the most important thing is to make sure that your legs are firmly on the ground and the weight of the wash machine is evenly distributed across all 4 legs.  If you don't do this then the mats become useless.

Also since this is a DIY site I will point out what I use on my washer.

Buy cheap plastic party cups.
Buy silicone caulk.
Cut party cups so that they are only 1.5" tall.
Fill to at least a .5" (up to .75") - all cups should be filled equally.
Let silicone cure (could take a few days).
Balance wash machine.
Sit cups under.
Notice that cups make a scratchy sound so put felt pad under them (this could be step 6).


It looks a bit like this - there are a number of options for this type of bulb, the length and wattage can vary.

Probably your best bet would be to take the burnt bulb to a big box home improvement store.  If you have a local lighting specialty shop, they can probably also help.


Replace outdoor fixture where existing fixture larger than new one

A tricky situation. If you can't get a piece of texture matching siding that you can paint to match, then I'd go with Aluminum flashing that you can easily paint & profile to the siding. You'll want to caulk & then screw or pop rivet the siding or flashing chunk to just under the siding's closest above rib to act as a roof for your patch, you're screwing the patch into just the siding & not the building or sheathing. First though, screw in an oval piece of plywood to the building's sheathing to fit in the old hole & fill-up the recess to mount your patch & new fixture to, center drilled-out for wiring. Use aluminum screws or rivets to avoid rusting, caulk your patch to the siding & caulk your fixture to your patch. Also, screw plugs with plumbing tape into the new box's unused holes, even if it's a bottom one.


Maytag top loading washing machine full of water at end of cycle

Is the washer particularly full when this happens, or are you setting it correctly for the load size?  If the clothes can't move freely in the water, they can clump together on one side of the drum, causing it to be unbalanced when it starts to spin.  Your washing machine is then stopping at that point in its cycle to prevent it from damaging itself, or from walking across your laundry room floor.


The gfci outlet likely comes with a few stickers with "no equipment ground" on them.

That is the universal marker. Put them on visibly on the outlet itself and any that is protected by that gfci.


How to seal small leak in buried irrigation system

Grab a shovel.

In my experience there is no viable substitute for fixing it correctly. Consider, for instance, what your "fix-a-flat" like substance would do to the 8 spigots, each of which looks like a leak (actually two leaks, a big one when it's open and a little one to drain the pipe and make it frost-free when it's closed.)

Municipalities sometimes apply a material to the inside of failing water pipes, but they dig a hole and insert a tube of the material into a section of the pipe, then expand it to seal the pipe. This is unlikely to be economically viable on your scale.

For finding the leak, you may find air pressure helpful. Stay within the pressure limit of the pipe, though. If your wet spot starts to bubble or hiss, you probably have the right spot. Non-toxic dye (in the water) may also prove helpful.


Which comes first - Flooring or Kitchen Remodel?

The simple answer is if you are going to put down hardwood in the kitchen, it is usually better to install the entire floor before you put down the new base cabinets. It is much harder to fit hardwood to cabinets than to put the cabinets on top of the floor.  If you were using vinyl sheet goods, I would advise putting down the subflooring then install the cabinets and fit the sheet goods to the cabinets.


Test button on GFCI breaker does nothing?

Well, I would replace that device .
What you could also do is get hold of an electrician who has the PAT testing unit and get it properly tested. That can tell if it functions at all and if it does, if it is within the specified response time.


If the router bit was in the collet the correct amount and tightened correctly then you should have no issues. I noticed a few things when looking at your picture, it is an older shank that had some rust on it and a few dings, it is possible it is not seating correctly in the collet.

With that said there is the possibility that the shank walked out of the collect because there was to much pressure in a climb cutting position. In other words the shank was rotating clockwise and you were moving left to right, the router bit is walking over the piece and every once in a while it grabs and pulls the shank out of the collet slightly like a screw. It DOES NOT matter how tightly you lock it in the collect.

Working in the machine shop, milling machine work the same way, I have see cutters come flying out for the same reason. It happens. Best advise is to work right to left and avoid climbing on the piece, finish will also be better. If you must climb take smaller cuts.


How should I install flooring over fresh concrete?

First you should wait a minimum of 3 months before installing flooring on basement concrete.  This is usually a minimum.  I would suggest not sealing it either.  If its not sealed 100% you just made issue worse.

I am pretty sure I installed these on a house last year too.  I recall that they are all "rubber" (vinyl).  I liked them a lot.  I recall too calling the manufacturer # and them telling me they would suggest no underlayment under concrete.  My first reaction was this was odd since almost all floating floor manufacturers want something under but it makes sense.  Your underlayment will hold water - the planks won't.  So minimal water should dry quickly with nothing - and that is what we did.

Also I don't think you glue these - they have a good click lock system.  Read the instructions or call them but almost positive glue isn't an option.

As for dricore that is a totally different thing.  You are doubling/tripling the install and money.  I for one wouldn't think about putting dricore down in a new basement.  I have many reasons but lets just say if I have a problem in the future I don't want to deal with 5000 pounds of dricore tiles.

And for the tile part - it is nothing like the plank flooring.  You would simply use thinset then tile (maybe a binding agent).


Since there are plenty of combination kitchen exhaust fan + light and bath exhaust fan + light (and even bath exhaust fan + light + heat) devices, this is clearly OK.

In general, residential exhaust fans require very little power and combining with lights should not be a problem.


Can I run a sink drain through the wall to connect back where it was before relocation?

Yes, as long as you can maintain 1/4" per foot of slope between your new location and old one.


Why is special sand used for leveling masonry?

It is just sand, to the best of my knowledge, other than the price they apply to it. Otherwise it can be a coarse sand, fine sand, washed sand, even stone dust. The benefit of using sand is, it is easy to grade out and readily packs tight to reduce settling after the pavers are set. Which is another big plus.
I have done what you suggest with large pieces of flagstone, not brick. The disadvantage using dirt under brick is that it will settle differently in places, so eventually the brick may not be as flat as you first laid them. If you can live with that, them go for it. It is what was done back in the early days. When I was setting the flagstone, I wish I had sand to use, it would have been much easier, but I wanted to save a buck.
About using flagstone, large pieces, 18"X18" and larger, the rough ground under the flagstone is "smoothed out" by the stone spanning over the high spots. I did what I could to get even bearing under each stone. The downside on what I was using was the material was not uniform in thickness, much unlike brick. If you could scrape the ground evenly, you may have a chance to set them right on grade. As soon as roots or grass roots enter the equation, like my situation did, forget easy, uniform scraping.


Levelling newly opened area between rooms

My carpenter's solution was simply to bridge the gap with a threshold, with its underside cut differentially to compensate for the difference. Having a clearly raised area between the two, with slopes on either side, is less likely to be a trip hazard than a smaller but sharper transition.


Is it okay two breakers are controlling the same outlets and appliances?

Probably. Here's a diagram of how a main panel and a subpanel are usually wired together:

In this diagram:

The main panel (on the left) has one breaker at the bottom that controls two outlets.
The subpanel on the right gets its power from the top right two breakers in the main panel.

Turning that pair of breakers off will turn off the entire subpanel.

The subpanel has one breaker that controls three outlets.

So if this behavior matches up with what you are experiencing when flipping breakers, then you're probably OK. Obviously there will be slight differences, such your breakers will probably not be in the same positions in my example, the pair of breakers in your main panel might just be one double-wide breaker, or (unlikely) the pair of breakers in your main panel might just be a single breaker.

But if you're concerned, it is worth it to pay a second electrical contractor to come out and look over the other guy's work. Also, the work should have required permits and therefore an inspection by a government inspector. If that didn't happen, then that might be a red flag.

Also, new electrical work like this must be labeled properly to meet code in most jurisdictions. You are will within your right to call the electrician and insist he properly label his work.


How do I remove a bolt that's stuck in a ceiling junction box?

While cutting off the bolt is definitely a good way to handle this situation. Here are a few things to try, before you take the destructive route. It also sounds like we might be having a bit of trouble with terminology, so I'll start with some definitions.

As you can see, the bolt is the bit that looks like a screw, while the nut is the bob that twists on to the bolt.
With that out of the way, let's look at some ways to remove a nut from a bolt.
Lube
Give the nut and bolt a health dose of penetrating oil, and let it soak for a few minutes (see manufacturers instructions). The oil should work its way in to the threads of the nut and bolt, and possibly lubricate the connection allowing the nut to spin free.
Put pressure on the bolt head
If you can get a flat head screwdriver, or other flat object behind (under) the nut, try prying while you turn the nut with pliers or a socket.  The downward pressure will pull the bolt head against whatever it's resting on, which may prevent it from rotating with the nut.
Pull and twist
Try using a pair of slip joint, tongue-and-grove, lineman's, or other pliers to pull and twist the nut.  This follows the same idea as the previous method, which is that the downward force will prevent the bolt from rotating and allow the nut to spin free.
Spin the bolt, not the nut
If there is enough of the bolt available below the nut (and you can get a small saw in the area), you can try to cut a notch in the bottom of the bolt. This will allow you to use a flat head screwdriver to turn the bolt, while you hold the nut stationary with a pair of pliers.
Hold the bolt steady
If you can grab hold of the bolt, you may be able to prevent it from rotating while you twist the nut off.  In your case, it doesn't look like you can grab the bottom of the bolt, but you might be able to grab the top.  First you'll have to remove the knockout at the back of the box.

Next use a pair of right angle needle nose pliers, to reach up through the knockout hole and try to hold the bolt stationary.

Once you've got a good hold of the bolt, you should be able to spin the nut free.
Cut the bolt
By this time if the bolt has yet to shed its nut, you're probably adequately frustrated. So now it's time to take out some of that frustration, and cut the bolt.


How do I tape a joint between drywall and plaster?

Mesh tape works really well.  Some guys swear by paper though.

I prefer mesh because its really idiot proof and quite forgiving.

Plaster will crack though. Just a matter of time and how many tractor trailers roll by your house.


What's the difference between a childproof outlet and a normal one?

A child-proof, or tamper resistant (TR for short) receptacle, has a spring-loaded cover over the electrical contacts that retracts when both pins of the plug press against it.  You need to push against both sides simultaneously, and some force is required to open the cover, making it difficult for a child to get something in far enough to get a shock.

A regular outlet doesn't have that cover, so a child can easily push something into the slot, touching the electrical contact and getting a shock.

Installation is exactly the same as for a regular receptacle (as you noted, they look identical from the outside).

Some other points:

The 2008 NEC requires TR outlets in new construction and renovations (thank you, @Tester101).
TR outlets are somewhat more expensive than regular.
TR outlets grip the plug much more firmly than regular ones, reducing the risk of them pulling out accidentally.


Just what you asked in your question. It's called a "twist lock" receptacle and accepts a twist lock plug. You will find this type of plug at the temporary power pole on job sites. They have the distinct ability once plugged and locked-in the receptacle to remain plugged-in no matter how the extension cord is pulled. This has saved many foot steps back and forth to re-connect for power.   And yes you can buy change over adapters that have a male twist-lock and a 3 prong standard female plug at each end.


Just a hunch, but worth investigating.
I suspect you have this light fixture somehow linked into two circuits. That should never happen, but if it does, you can end up with a lot of strange things.
Find the Breakers
You need to figure out which breaker controls the switch and which breaker controls the light separate from the switch. Doing that may get a bit tricky, as I would not connect the switch back to the light again until this is straightened out.
I would get a non-contact tester and/or a multimeter to test the switch wires. You should see one of the wires hot (lit up with the non-contact tester) and 120V (assuming US for the moment) between the wires. When you turn off the relevant breaker you should no longer see a hot wire and the voltage between the wires will either be zero or some relatively low phantom voltage.
When you have the switch breaker off, does the light go out? If it does, then the next step is to check each other device (light, switch, receptacle, built-in appliance) on the same circuit (i.e., everything that goes off when you turn off that breaker), looking for loose wires, things wired incorrectly, etc.
If the light stays on when the switch breaker is off then you have to keep flipping breakers until you find the one that turns off the light. Then you know that you have a cross-connection between the two circuits which is NOT a good thing. That could take take several forms, and will likely require checking out the wiring on both circuits. But I would actually start in that case with the wires going into the problem light fixture. One possibility is that wires for the 2nd circuit pass through the ceiling junction box and that when the light fixture was replaced, the wires got messed up. But there are other possibilities as well.


How would I remove a concrete shelf with possible reinforcements

Your plan to use an angle grinder is the way to go. The masonry disks for your grinder will cut the metal reenforcement wire or rebar. The metal will reduce the blade or disk life so get more than you think you need  you can return unused ones. Cutting concrete is really messy when done dry, make sure to have a quality dust mask and you may want to seal off the room, I have gotten in trouble with the wife many times for the dust, but an angle grinder is the way to do this job. Note if you only have a 4” make the first cut on the bottom then the top cut even if not fully cut a sharp blow with a 2lb or 3lb hammer is usually enough to sheer it clean, then use the grinder to even it up. With a 9” it should make it from the top.


Tile Grout: Patch up gaps, or strip out grout and regrout the whole thing?

You could push some grout into the bare areas but even if it was original from the same bag it will now be a different shade. I usually strip the grout for a level but not the entire wall I might cut just a slight amount on everything and when filling the bare areas work everything so the color matches or is not as obvious. After 16 years I probably would not be looking for flexing in this case and a refill will probably be fine.


To answer your question I suppose it could although I have never seen it.  I doubt your vent cap is too restrictive unless you have or have had in the recent past a bad sooting problem.  I rather suspect the B-vent is not being kept warm enough.  It has to be in a warm space basically all the way to its termination. No drafts.  No cold spots.  Warm.  It should be run straight up or nearly straight up.  And as short as possible and the very least number of bends.  Bends are a killer.  Happy Venting.  P.


Need timber advice for building an outdoor frame to support a roof

Pine is fine.  I'd treat it with a preservative and I do prefer to do this on the ground on sawhorses.  However depending on the preservative you use, you may have to handle the wood with rubber gloves.  Be sure to read the instructions carefully.

I'd cut the wood myself for sure.  Many times its better to cut by putting the material in place and marking rather than measuring.  Also, it's a rare lumber yard that I'd trust to cut everything accurately.

If you have a good impact driver or drill, I'd recommend using the special screws they make for with the sheet metal hanger brackets, just easier.

Make sure those posts are sturdy enough for the job.

Your drawing does not show a ledger - a board fastened to the wall to which you'll attach the rafters using metal hangers.  The secure attachment of the ledger to the building is very important for safety.  Usually you can't count on anchors into brick because you can't be sure of the strength of the brick.

Your building codes may require that the ledger be attached by bolts or large screws through the brick into the framing on the interior.  If this is too difficult or impractical, you may be able to add posts under the ledger at the wall, so the posts carry the weight of the roof.


Code compliance of custom wooden surface "conduit" in garage

This sounds like a good use for a heavy-duty surface raceway
The situation you're describing (several circuits following the same path, with future expansion as a consideration, while wanting to keep things neat and tidy vs. the "unfinished" or "industrial" look of a typical conduit installation) sounds like it'd be a good use-case for what's known as surface raceway (called "Wiremold" by electricians after Legrand's trade name for the stuff).  However, as you have noticed, the Wiremold found in home improvement stores (typically the 500 series, or equivalent nonmetallic product) is designed for low-profile work in finished spaces, and thus only has the capacity for a couple of circuits maximum.
In particular, since this is a garage, you'll probably want to use a metal surface raceway system for durability's sake.  Legrand has a suitable product in their 2400 series, although you'll need to mount your receptacles in device boxes instead of inline in order to get all your wiring to fit.  If you want the "in-line" look for your receptacles, you'll need to upgauge to the 3000 series Wiremold, which provides enough space for well, just about anything you wish to do inside it.
Note that you'll want to review NEC 386.22 for fill and derate requirements, as they are different for the larger-capacity surface raceways than they are for ordinary conduits.  In particular, raceways with a cross-sectional area upwards of 4 in2 are allowed to contain up to 30 current-carrying conductors without invoking thermal (ampacity) derates, unless you exceed 20% of the raceway's area with your wirefill.  Also keep in mind that inside surface raceways, you will want to run individual stranded THHN wires in order to keep fill and working manageable, instead of using big, stiff NM cables within the surface raceway.


How to install deck railing top board slanted

You'd just slope the 4x4 posts, set the top rails on them, and fit your 2x4 rails underneath. A slight wedge gap would be present, but that's not going to look terrible.
I'd reconsider for a few reasons, though:

You'll need a substantial slope to drain enough water to make a difference. We're talking about beads of water or, at worst, shallow puddling. Both require at least several degrees of slope to eliminate.
This isn't going to substantially extend the life of the rail. Even if it did, replacing just the top rails after 10-15 years might be worth not creating conditions whereby...
You'll eliminate the railing as a drink/dish platform. Don't underestimate the utility of that surface for you and your guests.

I'm in a moist climate and we routinely used 5/4x6 deck boards as top rails. Folks really liked being able to rest dishes and elbows on that wide surface. They didn't rot out any quicker than the hundreds of feet of decking below. A quick squeegee cleans them off after a rain.


I have 2 identical overhead projectors with bad diodes, but the diodes have different numbers. How do I find the right one that works?

That link looks like the same question I agree.
 We really don't need a photo of the diode just the numbers will work. Diodes are rated on the ammount of current they can rectify and the peak inverse voltage (for general purpose types). The normal failure is the junction shorts until enough current is available to blow the junction open. The diode failure in this case is probably due to excessive current not the PIV, installing a diode with a higher current rating should do the trick. Make to note the stripe on 1 end of the diode and install the new one the same way so the polarity is correct for any wave shape or starting components that may be part of the circuit to get the lamp started.