What hardware do I need for selling the electricity generated by solar panels to the electric company?

You need an on-grid or grid-tie inverter, and you can buy them far cheaper than you can possibly build them. In any case the power company and electricity regulator won't let you implement the circuits yourself unless you're prepared to spend thousands on certification tests, including requirements to, for example, shutdown within a millisecond of mains loss.


Can voltage fluctuation cause heater thermostat to flare up?

Yes voltage surges can cause problems with electronic thermostats and other devices.
A whole house surge protector is the best protection for surges on the grid.
I live in Oregon and we have lumber mills in my area (many of them) having customers that were on the same sub station as a mill I had customers that regularly saw what you are seeing and had everything from tv failures to refrigerators failing much more than often.
I installed a surge suppresser in one home similar to the one I had put in my home.
This did not last so we went with a much larger one.
Several years later because the unit had lasted and no more damaged electronics all the neighborhoods had me install suppressors a few did it them selves.
I started recommending the largest whole house surge suppressor that they could afford. One neighborhood every single home installed and almost totally eliminated the problem for years (I moved away but still hear from old customers now and then)
Why get the largest you can afford? If having damage due to surges the devices use MOV’s metal oxide varistors. These dump the excess voltage to ground and if large enough will last for many years but some folks only purchased small-mid sized units and these units degrade when they take a hit larger than there wattage. So the they needed to upsize. If you don’t have a lot of damage a mid sized one may do it.
If voltage spikes are routine and happen daily you may not have a lumber mill but you may have an industrial plant or building with elevators that cause line surges. On the same sub station causing spikes and a surge suppressor at your main panel is the best way to protect your electronics for the entire home from surges.
If you get a surge suppressor make sure it has built in monitoring usually 2 led lights that show the system is functional. (They the suppressors can fail and this means that failure saved equipment in the house).
When installing this kind of equipment I check the torque on all breakers (especially on aluminum wire) do this or ask your electrician to do it only takes a few minutes to verify all the small breakers then adjust the torque for the large breakers and check them (in some cases it can reduce power issues in your home).


What to do with this exterior insulation?

Does that insulation go into the ground? In otherwords, is that exterior insulation for the basement foundation? If so, then it's pretty much useless at this point. It wasn't sealed properly and is likely waterlogged and providing minimal insulating value. In which case, you can just get rid of it.

If, on the other hand, it's insulation on our exterior walls of the house, I'd suggest trimming off a bit of the bottom (you don't want that stuff in direct contact with surface concrete or soil). I'd then probably consider some sort of cedar skirting to match the siding and glue it onto the insulation (again, making sure the skirting is not in contact with the ground).


Can anyone identify/name this plumbing component?

I discovered the answer to my own question. I went to the Delta™ site after looking up Delta™ faucets on Amazon™, and discovered that this widget is indeed an integral part of the spigot -- it allows Delta™ sprayers to be plugged in and functions as the diverter. Or the diverter receptacle.

Unfortunately Delta™ doesn't offer a mating sprayer in the nickel finish that they sold this faucet in.

Alaska Man gets the kewpie doll for suggesting that I look at the faucet manufacturer website. I had been assuming that the widget was a separate component, and had not ever considered the idea that it was part of the faucet!


Roughed in electrical wire tucked in the ceiling by builder/electrician

I put in extra circuits quite often. They could have been for an option on the home that was not purchased with a speculation /track home (homes being built prior to purchased)  it is cheaper when you hire a roping crew (they just pull wire based on the generic blueprints) then the electrician  goes in and connects everything. If you don’t buy the upgrades they are not connected in the service panel.
So they may be spares for additional lighting and or receptacles.
Ask your builder to be sure but this will be the most likely answer.
Don’t cut them off if you decide to use them in the future having them can save hundreds dollars for each circuit.


will using a ventilation system with an heat exchanger give me the same quality air indoors as outdoors?

A heat-recovery ventilator will give you mostly what you want, though how much you get depends on how big it is and how much it runs.


How do I repair a burner on an electric stove that is on all the time even if turned off?

I'll bet the control switch is broken.  This is not a difficult fix, but usually requires lifting the range top to access the wiring harness and install a new switch. Most appliance stores with a service department will also sell the parts.  If your range is a new solid state computer controlled, you may have a bad control board. If that is the case, the parts are expensive and should be done by a tech. they are very hard for a consumer to trouble shoot.


Installing a Bathtub that does not have a flange

I hate to give an answer that's not really an answer but I think you need to return that tub. Without a flange there's no way to guarantee that water won't migrate over and around the edge of the tub into your wall where cavity where it will fester, unseen until you have a major problem. If someone has a better, more can-do, solution I'll be the first in line to delete this answer but until then, sometimes you just have to cut your losses:(


Protecting 3/16" wire rope going through poles?

A quick Google search using various terms eventually resulted in using "hole protector sleeves for 3/16 wire rope" leading to many links, one of which is Amazon:
VistaView Stainless Steel Protector Sleeves for 1/8", 5/32" or 3/16" Cable Railing

Being stainless steel, they are pricey and as Harper noted, unlikely to prevent water intrusion. One could use a silicone sealer when performing the installation to improve that aspect, but it's not going to be permanent or one-hundred percent effective. Temperature changes will pull humid air in over time.

You did not reference that the protection had to be done after the cabling is installed, and that's a good aspect, as I found zero links for after-install grommets or protection.


I think you'd have one heck of a time trying to get an 8" into that hole.

Unless incredible care was taken with the inside joints, there's very likely some point where a bit of mortar is poking out that will block the liner, or an offset between blocks at a "slight bend" will,  given only 1/4 inch of clearance.


What should I consider when using a sewage ejector pump?

From this article http://burnettplumbing.com/tenways/; Step #6 talks about a sewage ejector pump:

  If you have a sewage ejector pump in your basement, plan for the fact that it will eventually fail.
  These pumps operate in a very harsh
  environment (submersed in sewage) and
  often fail after just a few years.
  Failure of your pump could mean sewage
  back-up in your basement. The risk of
  a damaging back-up is especially high
  if you have a water softener which
  drains into the sewage ejector system.
  If the softener regenerates while the
  ejector pump is not functioning, you
  could end up with up to 100 gallons of
  sewage backing up through the floor
  drain. All of this could happen at
  night while you are asleep, that is
  when most softeners regenerate.
  Consider installing an alarm in your
  sewage ejector tank. An alarm is
  designed to buzz loudly in the event
  of pump failure. Assuming you're home
  when this occurs, you should have
  ample time to shut-off your water
  before the sewage reaches flood level.
  Remember, alarms can fail too! It is
  best to NOT store valuable items on
  the basement floor if they could be
  damaged by water or sewage flooding.


You probably need to replace the power supply with one designed for LEDs. According to various web sites, some LEDs have compatibility issues with transformers designed for halogens. In particular, the power supply may have a minimum load and your all-LED setup uses too few watts: "When replacing with LED bulbs they found they had to keep at least one halogen in the circuit to keep the load high."


How can I remove a musty smell from the basement?

I think your first step is to clear out stored items and run a dehumidfier and fan in the area to drop the humidity. You didn't mention the type of walls, ceilings and floor coverings.  Normally, if you smell a musty odor, you will have some mildew somewhere. Are there fabric or paper items stored there now? if the odor still exists after drying out the area, you should thoroughly wash the floors and walls, etc. with a mild bleach and water solution and dry it out again. Depending on the wall and ceiling coverings, a coat of mold resistant paint may be required. Concrete floors may need a waterproof treatment like Driloc.


How can I prevent grout from sticking in the small dimples in tiles?

If you really want to prevent any grout getting stuck in the dimples of the tile you need to mask it off. Yes- I know.. every single tile? Unfortunately, yes.

Style and beauty is hard work.

But you can use the wide masking tapes and then just try to grout as cleanly as possible. Do not smear the grout allover the tile. Keep to the area you want to grout. Possibly apply grout with a grouting tool then smooth it with a sponge; washing it regularly.

Once its all dr peel the masking tape away. Viola.


That footing isn't that big.  You glue it on.   It isn't that big of a deal.   The big deal is grinding out the protrusions.   You don't deal with those and the bottom of your wall is going to look pretty wonky.

I would run the drywall until may 2" above grade - give yourself some room for moisture and know that your flooring will take you up at least 1/2".   Tack on 4"+ trim (pine is my choice for basements)and it looks like you will have only 2-3" on the concrete with the trim going up over most of the concrete (meaning you will be gluing your trim on but that is a different question).


Why do my lights turn on when I plug a device into a nearby outlet?

If it's a remotely controlled dimmer, it's likely that RF interference from the switching power supply is causing the issue.

You may need an AC mains RF filter, AKA a noise filter, and possibly an RF choke (ferrite core filter) for the line cord, cord to the laptop, or both. You can probably find them in a local hardware store or electronics shop, as well as online.


MDF (particle board) edge sealing for smooth painted finish

You could try brushing the edges with glue.  I use Weldbond glue for similar purposes.  You can dilute it, maybe a thin coat first to penetrate and seal, followed by a thicker coat to finish it.  It's available in large sizes if you'll use a lot.  Worst case it's a good glue so even if it doesn't work for your application, it will still be good to have around.

There is a craft product made for decoupage called Modpodge that might work too.  They have different formulations, one might work for you.

Wood turners use cyanoacrylate (like SuperGlue) to harden and strengthen wood, usually a thin one that wicks well.  It imaging it may be expensive to use, though, I could see MDF soaking up a lot of it.  E-ZBond makes it in larger sizes that may be more practical.


Assuming that there are no service capacity constraints, you have a few options:

Replace some of the breakers with tandem breakers.  These essentially double the density of each slot.  These breakers come in a variety of configurations of both 120/240V and combos with both.  This is the easiest of options for a do-it-yourselfer to complete.
Install a sub-panel. You would relocate a number of circuits from the current box to a new sub-panel.
Replace the entire breaker panel with a larger panel. This is the most difficult of the three options and sometimes requires the utility to disconnect your service in order to complete this.

As always, contact a licensed electrician if you are unsure of how to safely make these modifications.


How to deal with a pop up drain install when nut doesn't sit flush with bottom of the sink?

The plumber's putty will not work, pull it all out of there please. The pop-up assy. should have included a fairly thick tapered rubber gasket to seal against the underside of the drain hole. This gasket has a flat back for the "crappy plastic" washers to rest against, those are actually friction rings designed to let the nut spin freely and press up against the rubber cone washer. I think you are missing the rubber washer.

Plumber's putty should only be used to effect the seal between the upper drain trim ring and sink.


Should I use PVC or ABS pipes for a swimming pool control system?

PVC is a good choice, provided that it is properly installed and maintained.  A proper installation includes shielding the PVC from UV light, which is the primary means of premature aging.  UV light will eventually turn PVC into a brittle mess.

ABS on the other hand tends to not become brittle with sun exposure, but to deform and is generally softer.  As a result, buried ABS pipe seems to be at a higher risk of crimping, impeding water flow.

In either case, you should paint your exposed pipe, which probably wasn't done, and is the primary reason you are looking to repair it.  Personally, I'd go with painted PVC, because after it is protected from UV light, it is less flexible (less pipe collapse) has a wider variety of fittings, and generally has a wider range of temperature distributions.  I'm also more familiar with PVC, which might cloud my judgement.  I'd love to hear from someone intimately familiar with ABS.

Both types of plastic are generally considered for low pressure applications, if you are having consistent freezing problems, neither pipe is meant to withstand routine freezing of water in-pipe.

PVC UVR is UV light resistant PVC.  Buy it and paint it if you want a very long lasting PVC solution.  Basically, you will have to worry about the (in my experience) natural enemies of PVC pipe before worrying about aging, that is careless yard crews, people vigorously digging, etc.


The 2x4s are joined with a half-lap joint (or a variation on a scarf joint). It's unclear from your diagram if there is any joinery holding the 2x4s down to the 4x4 or if they just rest on top of the post.

Not sure what you mean by a "regular saw", but half laps can be cut by most saws - circular saw and table saw are most common, though you could use a handsaw as well. Simply run the saw across the board multiple times, removing a sliver each time. A bandsaw (or jigsaw with a long enough blade) could be used by tipping the workpiece on its side and cutting the material away that way.

You could also use a chisel to cut that joint, as well as a router.


When you remove your carpet you should be able to see little impressions where the floor has been nailed or screwed into the joists. It should be a simple matter to line up your screws and put them in. If you somehow miss the joists you can merrily move a little bit to the side and try again. You might also consider pulling any nails at the squeaky spot as the problem may be a loose nail. Sometimes the squeak is an underlying problem (no pun intended). If the screws don't do the trick you could have someone move around on the floor while you go downstairs and try to locate the problem.


Two issues:

In the world of electrical power devices, there is a "Distribution Voltage" that your utility is providing to you, and there is a "Utilization Voltage" that your devices are designed to work on. They are not the same values, because it is EXPECTED that there will be a "voltage drop" that takes place between the utility transformer and the point at which the device connects due to the resistance of the wire between them.  Distribution voltages are required to be +-5% maximum deviation, Utilization Voltages are supposed to be +-10% minimum acceptable.
Distribution voltage levels have changed over the years. Here in the US (we don't know where you are), 220V was an old original standard going back to the 1920s. Some time around the 1930s, as part of one of Roosevelt's "New Deal" programs called the "REA" (Rural Electrification Act), power lines were run out to farms and small communities all across the country. So to avoid having the REA workers have to carry different products for different utility voltages, a standard was established that has become codified as the ANSI (American National Standards Institute) Distribution Voltages that power utilities are SUPPOSED to adhere to. So for residential single phase distribution, the official voltage is actually 240VAC. But because old habits die hard, and because SOME utilities never actually changed, "220V" is a common term still used all over the place. It's actually somewhat rare for it to actually BE 220V. Generically, it's all referred to as being the "nominal" voltage; 220, 230, 240 all being relatively close enough.

So partially because of this, the unofficial "Utilization Voltage" level has been 230V for decades, but the tolerance is +-10%, meaning the devices are supposed to be designed to accept anything from 207V to 253V. In reality because some commercial and apartment complexes will use 208V 3 phase distribution, and you want to be able to accept 90% of 208V, the equipment manufacturers often actually make their products suitable for -15% from 230V (195V).

RARELY, something is either old, or made somewhere where they don't follow industry norms (or don't understand, or don't care) and they made it so that it STRICTLY requires a very narrow input voltage. So bottom line you should check. But if it is something like a dryer or an oven outlet, it should be perfectly fine.


Can I install an above-the-range microwave above an exhaust vent?

This is a common problem. So common that you can buy a microwave oven that has an exhaust fan on the bottom for use over a cooktop. Power and control of the fan is all part of the microwave. The typical term is "over the range microwave". Many companies make them, such as this GE:

Key things to look for are:

Microwave oven capacity
Width - typical is 30"
Speed (typically measured in CFM) of fan

and the tough one is to figure out if the exhaust vent location will work. Download the installation manual before you buy anything and see if everything will fit or what (if anything) you will need to change.
Update based on picture:
The picture shows an in-wall fan. I used to have one of those before I redid my kitchen many years ago. It looks like an original from the 1960s or earlier. This type of fan really does not do a very good job, because it is pulling air across instead of up. It is likely to pull more air from the rest of the kitchen than up from the cooktop. It might be effective if it is very high power, but I doubt that is the case.
Replacing the fan is a very good idea. But then you run into another problem. Even without including a microwave oven, a properly mounted exhaust fan would be relatively low over the cooktop. The cabinets above the cooktop should have been a bit shorter so that they could be mounted higher up on the wall to allow more room for a fan and (now) for a microwave oven.
What to do? When I redid my kitchen in a similar situation, I ended up, with the help of my electrician and his tools, knocking a new hole in the outer wall in the right place to install a new exhaust fan and I removed the old fan and covered up the hole. In your case, that will not be as easy a task. However, even without the fan problem (which is a real problem - you need a fan over a cooktop), there simply is not enough space to mount a microwave oven under that cabinet and still have a functional cooktop.


Is there a way to fix a small chip in a wall's paint?

If this is no deeper than about 1/16th of an inch you can fix this with a can of wall texture. Any deeper and you'll probably want to get some spackling paste.

If you get the paste, smear it in, and scrape it level with the wall using a plastic scraper. Let it dry. Dap Drydex is good for this because it starts out pink and turns white when its dry.

Next, spray on the wall texture. A knockdown knife will make it easier to get the texture to match your existing texture.You might need to redo this step a couple of times to get it right if you're new at this. Get a wall sanding sponge and take the dried texture off if you redo it. You also might want to use the sponge between the spackling step and the texture step and maybe even before doing the spackling. If you get the basic tools you need (scraper, wall sanding sponge and knockdown knife) as well as the materials(spackling and wall texture) you can rinse and repeat until you get it looking perfect. It takes a bit of practice to get it looking right.

Then, apply paint and you're done.


Cleaning large amounts of cat urine from an occupied house?

I thought they were a gimick at first, but I have had great luck with the "urine destroyer" type enzymatic cleaners.  They promise that their "unique enzyme formula" (unique... they all say that) attacks and breaks down the odor causing elements in the urine.  I haven't taken the time to research their claims, but we have an old dog with a bad bladder, and the stuff works well on her accidents.  It really gets rid of the odor.

My suggestion is to get a quality UV light (careful, cheap flashlight units don't work well) and some good enzymatic cleaner and soak all the current stains.  Once that's done (and you have to let it sit and work until its dry), I'd rent a carpet cleaner and use stain remover to handle any remaining visible stains.


Is it common for fencing companies to drill into your home rather than use a post?

Unless there is something unusual about your home, normal practice is to install a post at the wall of the house. NORMAL.

Now why they did not do that on yours  the roof drain just flows into where they would normally put the post .. I could see they are expecting a wood post to rot.

Other than that I think they gave you an answer; not a good answer but an answer.

No digging next to the house, no putting in a post and no labor to do all of that. Time & Money.
Me personally depending on the scenario like an unusual house - my preference is Never to Drill into my house. Think about when it breaks how to fix that fence.


How To Run Thermostat Cable Without Going Crazy?

assuming you can't sneak the wire in beside a flue or a drain/vent stack. and don't want to install a new wire on the outside of your house.
Install a 24V transformer near where you need to power the thermostat and run bell wire  from the transformer to the thermostats R/Rh and C terminals.
it could be a hard-wired doorbell transformer, or a plug in one.


How can I attach angled beams to a post?

There are lots of ways to attach beams to posts, and you don't necessarily need purpose-built brackets. Miter your beams so that they come together at an appropriate bisection of the post top, and use whatever means is convenient to keep them positioned... dowels, angled screws, etc.

In the case shown in the second image, I'd be inclined to use a skewed hanger and hang the angled beam on the other two. If your beams actually have the offset shown, things are complicated a bit, but maybe a short third member bolted to the right-hand beam would flush things up in simple fashion.


Will 2x10 joists span 10 feet between rims for a cabin?

How far you can span with a given joist size depends on the load, the spacing between joists, the type / grade of wood, etc. - but not on the size of the supporting posts.  There are lots of tables you can find online such as http://www.southernpine.com/span-tables/

I'd see what's done locally but I'd bet you're way better off with piers made of concrete poured into sonotubes rather than sinking wood posts below grade.  But if you do, you do need a footer under the post.


It's also worthy to check and see that the fan itself has its own speed control pull switch at the fan itself... Or possibly some dip switch settings in the fan, like speed options and even possibly other settings like hz. settings... I'm guessing of course, and I may have missed something in your original post, but especially if this fan has a pull chain speed switch in it, the fan itself must be in the high speed position at the fan, especially if you have a wall switch associated with it.


Idea to seal (prevent water) in the gap between marble floor and fixed shower glass panel

Clear silicone is very very very easy to take off marble and glass.   There is no residue after hitting it with a glass scraper and some mineral spirits - a big shower is maybe 15 minutes.

For application on something like 1/4" I would put a first coat down that should fill most of the gap.   Then come by about 1-3 hours later (depending on air flow and temperature of room) - you want the first coat to harden a little but not be set - and put a finishing coat that looks good and fills the rest of the gap.   Do it right.

(There are also some edging strips that you could use.   You would effectively have to use glue - silicone - to install them and they would be a PITA to remove.  But the big issue is this shouldn't have been installed with a 1/4" gap)


Reproduce/build 4"x4" steel bases using brackets?

If you’re looking to build your own base, you could copy one of these.

If it’s a retrofit installation, you could use Simpson RPBZ. And if it needs to stand off concrete, add CPS.

If you don’t like the looks of the metal side plates, you can use Simpson CPTZ.

For maximum resistance against rotation, you can use Simpson MPBZ.


Go to a real lighting store. Often times they'll consult with you free of charge if you purchase the fixtures there. They may cost a bit more, but are usually of higher quality than the big box stores and you get the advice. If you buy enough, sometimes they'll bend their policies a bit and give you contractor pricing. Clearly you need design input and they can give it to you, right down to calculating the lumens per square foot you need as well as other lighting options, such as task lighting.
Also, many lighting stores are small, locally owned businesses worth supporting. IMHO.


Plumber's snake buckles when trying to unclog sink

Well, you found where the clog isn't, at least. However, if you can't go to a lower part of the plumbing or further from the street through another sink, toilet or basement clean-out. Then, make sure you're using the Snake properly by tightening the locking screw once you get to the bind and spinning while pushing. You can also pull the Snake tip out to almost straight for better steering.

If still no success, then it's time to get a Plumber with a Camera Snake and not just a bigger or powered Snake. You may very well be bottoming-out at a non-directional T-fitting or 90-degree elbow. Neither of those "should" ever be present in a plumbing's drain system, but commonly are nowadays. This may therefore require Snaking backward from the street if a lower clean-out access point can't be installed to bypass the bind.


RV Pedestal - 20 AMP GFCI & 50 AMP 14-50 in same 2 Gang Box?

Box fill requirements basically make that a hard no.
#6 wires need 5 cubic inches each. The device (receptacle) they connect to adds two more, so you need 30 cubic inches just for that.
#12 wires need 2.25 cubic inches each, and the device they connect to adds 2 more, but you get to skip the ground (or count only 1/4 of it under 2020 rules) so 9.56 cubic inches for that.
A 4x4x2-1/8 would just fit the 14-50R. The 20 amp outlet is easy in most boxes so long as it's separate from the 14-50R (and then you count the ground as it'a not a shared box - so you need 11.25 cubic inches, though you'll appreciate more room since GFCIs are big.)
Depending on how you have protected the panel/outlets from the weather in your home-built pedestal will affect whether you also need to deal with exterior boxes and in-use covers. Since you mention that it's an outdoor load center, it may be the case that you will need exterior boxes (which will vary somewhat from the cubic inch sizes I've called out above for interior stamped steel boxes - just pick ones that are at least as large or larger than required) of appropriate volume and in-use covers for proper weather protection.
If using a quad breaker, you might as well put in an additional 20A GFCI on the other 20A feed.
If the terminals on both breaker and receptacle are rated for 75C (and they usually are for a 14-50R) you could reduce the cubic inch requirement quite a bit by using #8 THWN or THWN-2 (3 cubic inches per count) since you are running wires in conduit, not cable, so you can use the 75C column in the table rather than the 60C column. Then you'd only need 18 cubic inches for that, rather than 30.


Can I use my bathtub or shower during tiling project

I understand that you are just replacing the tile and leaving the bathtub. So, you should have no problem taking a bath in the tub at any time during the tiling. As far as a shower, you can be creative with some polyethylene plastic taped or draped around the three walls and take a shower too throughout the project.


Installing a larger pulley to a smaller motor shaft

The “best” solution would be to get a machine shop to make a single piece of 2 and 3 combined which also has a flat on the outside so that the locating screw has a proper surface to bite.
That would also control the depth of the pulley on the shaft.
Perhaps you should also check for pulleys with smaller internal diameters.


How should I convert a double sink to a single sink?

You should have absolutely no problems capping one set inside the wall. What a great DIY project (:


was in attic for an hour without mask. could this cause issue?

Fiberglass can be bad for the lungs: http://www.lung.org/healthy-air/home/resources/fiberglass.html

However, for it to be a real issue, one needs a lot of exposure...typically someone that works with it daily as part of their job.

The amount of contact a typical homeowner would be exposed to in their lifetime is not likely something to lose too much sleep over.

For future reference, however, a cheap 3M dust mask is a good idea the next time you're up in the attic.

Odds are you are coughing due to dust in the attic more than the fiberglass.


When was the 'hospital grade' filtration system installed? What is the nature of the filter media and the physical arrangement of the filters? Where is the air handler located? in the attic? in a closet in the living space? in the basement?

You might try a less restrictive filter. The more restrictive the filter is, the lower is the pressure in the region between the filter and the blower motor.  If there is a leak in this region, outside unfiltered air will be pulled in from a region of higher pressure, bypassing the filter and perhaps carrying musty odors. If the duct work in this region suddenly sprang a leak, then this would explain the sudden appearance of this off odor. Inspect the duct work carefully in this low pressure area.

There are reports of highly restrictive filters putting such a high load on the blower fan motor that it increased the electric current flow in the motor above the design limit and drastically shortened the service life of the motor. Could this smell be from an overheated motor?


How to connect primer tubing to non-laundry faucet?

Another option would be to install a flow-through trap primer.  This is a device that feeds a small amount of water to the trap primer everytime the supply it is connected to runs.  One constraint is that it needs to be oriented correctly due to the air gap.

The one pictured is from Watts

  Series A200 Flow-Through Trap Primers are used in commercial and residential applications to assure delivery of water to floor drain traps to prevent the evaporation of the water seal that protects a building or room from sewer gas fumes. It consists of a bronze body construction with a Celcon seat and disc. Available in threaded (Model A200) or union solder (Model A200S) connections. Minimum Supply Pressure: must exceed 25psi (172kPa), Maximum Supply Pressure: 125psi (8.6 bar).


I have kitchen windows that close with a crank. Sometimes debris gets caught where the window meets the frame or sometimes paint or caulk may have settled there. Check to see if there is debris where the window sash meets the frame.


The legs will not bow at all, all the force acting on it is pushing straight down. There is nothing going on the inside to act upon it to push out, so this will hold anything you wish to place in it. It will also hold an incredible amount of weight on top without no bowing of the legs either, if you added an apron that is attached to the top the same way you have a front stretcher at the bottom. If you did the top a little differently and made it so the top blocks "keyed in, or just added a few removable screws, it would help hold the front together.That way you could still remove it when you need. Like this without the screws at the top, it will not bow, maybe spread a little if you don't fasten the top.

I added your modified picture to help show what would help


This doesn't answer your exact question, but why not use a pair of 90 degree elbows to make an adjustable hinge. The first elbow would go vertical, and the second would return it horizontal. Then you can create any angle you'd like.


Here is one plan for replacing the right hand receptacle with a switch to have a switched light. I think this is correct, but it would be prudent for you to verify it or have someone else here comment in agreement before you make these changes.

Disconnect the three whites from the receptacle and connect the three whites together. They will not be connected to the switch.
Disconnect the black on the upper screw of the receptacle and connect it to one of the contacts on the switch. This will be the switched hot to the light.
Disconnect the two blacks from the lower contact of the receptacle and connect the two together with a short (~6 in) length of black wire (called a pigtail) giving 3 blacks in one wire nut. Connect the other end of the black pigtail to the other contact on the switch. This connects an always hot (line hot) to the other side of the switch.

Note if you get a good quality switch which allows good connection of multiple wires on one contact, then you can dispense with the pigtail and just put the lower two blacks in contacts which connect them to each other, but do NOT use the ordinary backstab connections for this. Do this only if the back connections are secured by screw pressure. (I don't know if there are switches which have this feature, but if there are, it will save room and be easier.

You could put the two blacks under one screw like it evidently is on the receptacle, but it is not recommended to put two wires under one screw unless the device is rated for multiple wires under one contact.


You need to use switches rated for at least 15 amps.  Most UK switches are rated at 10 amps. You could solve that problem by wiring the light through a relay such as a RiB or Aube type low-voltage relay.

Mechanically mounting it in the walls would be easy enough. The trick is don't try to mix-and-match. Use all-UK stuff up until an obvious point of divergence.   So for instance, put the UK switch with a UK cover plate in a UK junction box with UK cable clamps.  The place to transition to US style stuff is at the cable or conduit.  You might have to punch a 1/2"US knockout in the side of the UK box, if you were fitting conduit.  Otherwise UK twin-and-earth clamps will probably work on Romex.

No ring circuits, though.


Can I replace a shower door that has one edge joining with another glass pane?

I have never seen replacement doors at a place like Home Depot. Your situation looks like a custom made unit.  You probably will have to have it looked at by a local glass contractor/supplier to see if they can make a replacement door or hinge set up for ya. Unless you can actually find the make and model of what you have now, I doubt you will find a simple off the shelf replacement.


Do UL-listed product specifications or NEC rules take precedence?

Very simple... 110.3.B states that the manufacturer's instructions shall be followed. That is, of course, for listed equipment.


How to remove clumps of algae from pool after using algicide

When you added the algaecide it contained a flocing agent which clumps up the dead algae which it then settles to the bottom of the pool.
Filters do not filter out dead algae and all you're doing is recirculating the dead algae.
How to Fix

Some pool owners will need to fill their pool up with water in order to proceed to the next step.  You may not.
The multiport valve on your filter may have a Waste option.  Use it to blow out the dead algae while you vacuum.  Do no use the backwash option, only the Waste is needed.
After you have blown out the dead algae, then you will probably need to tap off your pool again, then backwash and rinse.

If the multiport valve doesn't have a WASTE option, then you will probably need to consider purchasing an external pump and attach it to the vacuum to blow out the dead algae into your garden.


Should the bottom of a shower enclosure be watertight?

Yes, a shower base should be sufficiently water tight to contain an inch or so of water above the drain.  I know that mine does.  Yours doesn't appear to have a lip to contain the water, so that door needs a gasket to both contain the water and prevent damage to the door mechanism.

It sure looks like your builder forgot a seal or chunk of rubber gasket.  If it's recent work, I'd definitely ask about it.

And sure, you want to have your drain running right, but all drains eventually clog.  A working drain doesn't mitigate an unsealed shower base.  You'll need it one day regardless.


Is it a good idea to separate switch for recess lights and chandelier in living room?

It is totally normal to install two groups of lights in one room with separate switches. If you do that then you also have the option to install, now or at a later time, a dimmer and/or timer on each set separately. This is particularly useful for chandeliers vs. other lighting in order to set just the right "mood" for a room - e.g., full brightness on everything for reading, playing games, etc. vs. dim chandelier by itself for the equivalent of a candlelit dinner.

If you install everything on one switch now then unless you run separate wires for each group of lights (i.e., two sets of wires going to one switch), you would need to run new wires later on to separate for dimming or timers. And if you are already running separate wires, a second ordinary switch now is very simple & inexpensive.


The metal box should be grounded, unless your wiring was done incorrectly. Look in the back of the box and you should see a cable coming in to the box, with black, white, (possibly red), and a green or bare copper wire. The copper wire should be screwed into the box itself, providing a ground.

If not, it's possible the cable is armored or run through metallic conduit, which would provide the ground.

In either case, simply attach the green wire from the fan to the metal box, being sure to strip enough insulation.


Newly installed hardwood flooring bowing when I step

If it is a floating floor design it should not be nailed down.  This impedes the movement that occurs due to temperature and humidity changes.  As the floor expands it will create "ridges" in the floor.  The brand/type of flooring would help.


Those look like compression fittings.   You should be able to unscrew them:  Make note of which way the compression rings (O-rings) are seated (if there are any).
You should be able to buy a replacement.  Here's a similar one:


You can sister another 2x4 that's turned 90 degrees on it's side to help with the twist (basically make an L with the two boards).  To get them to pull together, first clamp them together and then use some deck screws to attach the two.

It's hard to tell if the twist is from buckling under load or if it's just warped from a moisture change.  And from looking at this on a web site, I think it will be difficult for many of us to say if it's necessary.  (Though even if I were to see it in person, I may be clueless since we outsource all of our roof work to someone with a crane and even they use pre-manufactured roof trusses where every board is load bearing.)

However, it is safe to say that nothing bad will happen if you reinforce it, while it could be disastrous for you to remove it.


What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?

A Gas lawnmower with an electric start. Electric ones don't like to cut heavy dense grass. Plug it in at the house, start it, disconnect and go. A quick search found a self-propelled one for about $300. I couldn't really find one much cheaper but I do recommend a self propelled model. Like this one from Briggs and Stratton, a reputable company.

 -Home Depot

If you're not just going to plug a bunch of regular cords into each other, a legitimately constructed cable and an electric mower would near, if not surpass, the cost of one of these more effective machines.


The flashing lights will likely tell you what's wrong.  Grab the owners manual, and locate the troubleshooting section.  It should have a section describing the meaning of the blinking lights. If you don't have the owners manual, you might be able to find it online, but you'll have to locate the model number first.  Inside the unit there should be a nameplate that lists a bunch of numbers, and other information.  The model number is likely on that, probably right after the words Model Number:, or Model #:, or maybe simply Model:. If you can't find the model number, the user guide, or you just don't know anything about furnaces. You could always contact Lennox customer support, or the company that installed the unit.

I'm guessing it's a high efficiency unit (which can be verified by looking for PVC piping leading away from the unit toward the outside of the building). If I'm correct, the sounds you're hearing are likely...

"it started blowing cold air" - Inducer fan on.
"then it makes a click noise like something else was supposed to start blowing" - Pilot or main gas valve open.
"but than it made another click and continued for a few minutes" - Spark ignitor trying to light gas.
"than it just goes off" - Pilot fails to prove.
"the red and green lights ... blink one after another" - Unit failed to ignite, system lock out (possibly flashing specific error code).

Without the model number, it's very difficult to provide further assistance.  Watch the flashing lights, and try to notice a pattern. For example, the red light might flash quickly 4 times, then pause. This pattern often tells you exactly what the problem is.


Because you're on a gable end hit wall sheathing and sheathing on the gable end truss, depending on height. You'll want to try and drill through the sheathing as high as possible to get above the wall plates and truss bottom chord. You can drill through the truss if necessary.

Your best bet might be to route the cable around to the overhead door wall, where you'll find open bays between the trusses. There may be insulation baffles, but you'll have a relatively clear route.


What's the best way to select windows for heating efficiency? I have an older house in a northern climate

The true answer is that it takes more energy to remove heat from a space than it does to add heat to a space. For every watt of heat you want to remove, you have to expend an additional 2 to 3 watts of heat just to carry that first watt away from the area. So, insulation will always be biased towards preventing heat ingress.


The connection to the pipe is a compression fitting. Buy a new valve with the compression style connection (and, of course, matching outlets) and thread it into your existing nut and ferrule (compression ring). You need to tighten with a fairly heavy hand here, they are designed to form a metal-to-metal seal with the ferrule actually being squeezed down onto the pipe permanently.

If it leaks, tighten more. if it still leaks, cut below the old ferrule and use the new nut and ferrule that came with your new valve.


The existing switch box is too narrow for my switch

The box is very easy to remove. Just straighten the four tabs and the box will come out, the taps will fall to the floor behind the drywall unless you hold on to them and slide them out from behind the wall in the event you want to reuse the box.

You could use the existing box once you attach the NM cable to it. Just remember to hold on to those tabs. After making your connections to the switch, wrap two or three wraps of electrical tape around the switch and secure it into the box.

You can also replace the existing box with a plastic old work box. The box you pictured won't work unless there's a stud right there to drive those screws into.


Can smoke from small fire cause wiring problems?

At only 140 F there should be no problem, 140C on the other hand would have me checking the fixture and wiring insulation to see if anything melted. Most modern homes are wired with NMB wire that is rated for 194F in use (90 C). With the extra heat if an Edison (screw in type lamp) the center contact may have bent away from the lamp causing the flickering. With the power off remove the lamp and using a small screwdriver or other tool reach in and lightly lift the center metal tab, it won't take much and lifting two much can cause the tab to break (1/16 of an inch should be plenty) replace the lamp and see if that fixed the problem. Just a note that if this is a can light recessed in the ceiling they have thermal safety's that do go bad especially if a larger wattage lamp is used (larger than the fixture was designed and listed for)


As long as it is out of the weather as you describe then standard  boxes, devices and plates are fine. This installation sounds no different than a garage for instance.

Now, if this covering is voluntary, as in only on sometimes, then an inspector could very well consider this a damp or even wet location due to the fact that in some circumstances the area is likely to get wet. As in an unexpected rain storm while you are at work. If this is the case I would treat the area as damp, with outdoor covers.


The blue wire goes to C, not B

Some Trane systems, yours included, use a non-standard labeling where the 24V common wire is labeled B, not C.  We can tell this from your wiring diagram as well as the wiring on your old thermostat.  As a result, since the blue wire went to your old thermostat's B terminal, it needs to go to C instead on the Nest.  This frees up the O/B terminal on the Nest to get connected to the orange wire from the thermostat, which connected to the O terminal on your old control.

As to the brown wire? While it might be possible to figure that out with more information, your system should work fine without it connected, since it was not hooked up to your old control.  The white wire being unhooked, though, is a sign that the emergency/auxiliary electric heat was not used on the old system.  Perhaps it was disabled intentionally due to an issue with it, so I would pay attention for signs that the emergency heat is running when it shouldn't.


Recommendations for search terms - insulate wall between duplex units

There actually aren't any (at least in the Model Codes)

The reason you're coming up empty handed is because the Code makers, by and large, have not addressed this when writing energy conservation codes.  Party (common) walls are generally not considered part of the building thermal envelope, which is actually rather OK, as insulating them poses special challenges.

From the Building America Solutions Center page on the topic (italics in original):

  The model energy codes do not address minimum insulation requirements for common walls because the common wall is not defined as part of the building thermal envelope.

If you want to insulate and/or air seal them, you must respect the wall's fire rating and listing when insulating in order to be Code compliant.  You may wish to speak with your AHJ on this, especially considering that you are dealing with an older style of party wall which behaves differently from modern residential party walls.


What (in the US) do you call the type of wrench that is made from a steel tube?

This is a tubular wrench.
Apart from the British "box wrench" term, "tubular" is in my experience the most common generic name for these tools. You can get a full set of them (I have one, though in metric sizes).
It looks like googling "tubular box wrench" is the best way to get the right stuff while eliminating the American meaning of "box wrench".


You need a putty knife, and some joint compound to apply over the top of it; the mesh provides some structure over the hole, you build it up just a little higher than the undamaged area, and feather it smooth; when you sand it, you will be sanding the compound, not the mesh. If you are careful applying the compound, very little sanding should be needed.


Is a condensing tankless heater that expels excess water outside also a dehumidifier?

The condensate from natural gas burning comes mainly from the burning. Methane is the primary component of gas, and it is chemically CH4. When burned, you have:
... a problem, because MathJax does not appear to be enabled on this exchange ...
CH4 + 2 O2 --> CO2 + 2 H2O
The relevant parts here are that 2 "oxygen" molecules from the air are consumed, and (after some chemical shenanigans) 2 water molecules are produced.
This is not simple, since natural gas consists of other things than methane, and the reaction is not a single-step reaction, so carbon monoxide and other things are also by-products. But the majority of the gas is methane, and the majority of the results are dioxide and water.
The water, naturally, is a vapor since it's created in the middle of a burning flame. But the high-efficiency gas appliances really try to capture the waste heat and feed it back into the system, so as a result the water vapor is cooled to "condensate". The condensate is not pure water (a lot of those impurities and by-products mentioned above also condense) and so you should not drink it (seriously, you could die), or even allow it to run through your sewer drain (seriously, it will eat a hole in your poo pipes, and nobody wants an that) without neutralizing it.


Will caulking control joints in a slab reduce freeze damage?

Your question implies that standing water would occur in the cracks between slab segments. Generally speaking it won't. If there was that much of a seal under the concrete (due to clay soil or whatever), you won't prevent it with caulk. Water's much too wily for the likes of that.
Joints like that exist for decades without undue distress from freeze/thaw cycles. The water drains and is absorbed into the concrete. It's really not a problem and you wouldn't change the outcome much with caulk anyway. Public sidewalks in my northern climate don't crumble away at the control joints (except where salt is used excessively).
The only reason to do it might be for appearance, but that usually doesn't go as well as planned. It just ends up looking messy.


Receptacle upstream from GFCI with an issue causing GFCI to trip?

Solved! I kept moving further upstream from the GFCI once I detected the open neutral or lower voltage neutral, and I found the culprit receptacle. A working receptacle had clearly burned a bit on one of the neutral wires. I replaced it with a new receptacle and all the downstream voltages were now steady and equal on hot and neutral. The original GFCI receptacle worked and I'm all good now and the GFCI tests and resets properly!
It felt like I walked to the breaker panel in the garage 100 times while I was troubleshooting, so I got my steps in and learned a bit more about electrical work. Thanks for all the help from those who commented.


Type of screw / fastener should one use to attach veneer covered particle board bookcases together?

I am not a big fan of screw threads in particle board.

I would use connecting bolts and caps, which are often included in DIY furniture.

They come in a wide variety of lengths and finishes. Pick the size and style that fit.

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsment of goods or sources.


List of issues:

Getting the space conditioned.  This may be really easy or insanely difficult.  Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house.
Getting electric.  Should be no big deal.
Getting water.  Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing.
Getting exit plumbing.  Given that the bathroom is on a second level you have a lot more options but you will probably have to open a few walls to get plumbing to your main stack.  Your shower and faucet aren't a big deal.  It is your toilet that would be concern.  You don't want to run a long solid waste line with low slope.
Venting.  Should be easy since you are on second level.

So biggest issues are #1 and #4 for a bathroom above garage.  If you get these easily figured out the rest shouldn't be a huge deal.


Should central heating pipes through internal brickwork have insulation?

No disrespect to ChrisF but I disagree fully.

4" of common brick has an R-Value of only 0.88 - so its a pretty good conductor of heat, which isn't what you want when you want to conserve heat.  The direct contact with the wall will only improve heat conduction, as well.

UNFORTUNATELY - given the tight space, you aren't going to be able to insulate where you need it most, the point of direct contact.

If you're not averse to a little more elbow grease - your 4" pipe has a 12.5 sq in internal surface area (ie: the area of the circle), so you could replace the round 4" pipe with either fairly small square duct (if you can find it, 3x4 is pretty small) or insulated round pipe.  If you go with the square duct, you can go larger than necessary (just don't go smaller) and box it in with Styrofoam board cut to fit to give a good thermal break.


Should doors over carpeting be hung higher than those over hard floors?

The tops of the doors should all be in a perfect line with each other. (Often the tops of windows align with this also). The bottoms of the doors could be cut differently to clear whatever flooring there is. This is only for aesthetics but is an important visual detail.


Gap between foundations is a bug entry point?

You can get two pack pouring foam which is the same but on a larger scale and that stuff will fill any gaps regardless of their size, i would be be more concerned about it expanding into your bathroom, Also you may want to extend that down pipe away from your house looks like a lot of water has been running under your foundation, Which may cause you bigger problems in the future than insects in the house.


How can I prepare my home to be vacant for a month?

I don't have an exhaustive answer, but off the top of my head, I would say don't turn off the heat entirely.  You don't want frozen pipes, and refrigerators can be damaged if they are left running in freezing temps.  If it were me, I'd probably leave the thermostat at about 10 C.  I would also turn off the water entirely so that even if a pipe bursts, you don't end up ruining anything.  Also, not sure what crime is like there, but may want to figure out how to make it look like the place is occupied.  Snow accumulation could make that tricky (i.e. no tracks means no people).


They have the same box fill volume.
The box fill volume is not 2 cubic inches.
It is 2 x the box fill allowance for the largest wire attached to it.


Hard to tell from the little information you provided, but as a gross generalization, things like this tend to be a loose connection and from the sounds of it, a loose neutral connection because the neutral is common to everything.


Is it better to use a AFCI/ GFCI breaker in the panel or do to use a AFCI/ GFCI receptacle?

You can use a breaker or an outlet.  It's up to you.  For outside outlets on my house I chose to use a breaker so I could use regular cheap outlets in the weather, but in the bathrooms I stuck with the outlet style because it was a direct replacement and I didn't have to mess around with the breaker panel again.

AFCI/GFCI outlets only have two sets of screws - Line and Load, so there is no little tab to break off and separate them into two circuits like on a standard outlet.  You can't feed them with 2 breakers.


Are my wires in this junction box too short?

The work is solid with a few exceptions.

Yes, that's too short.  You should be leaving 9-12 inches.  The legal minimum is 6" past the clamp, or able to reach 3" beyond the finished wall surface.  It can seem cluttery, but cluttery is good.

Are you using a book on electrical?  The book would tell you this. People learning electrical work best when they have a general overview of all aspects - a primer if you will. Google can't substitute because Google only answers questions, and without a well rounded set of concepts, it's hard to know all the questions  you should be asking.

You will need to replace all three legs, and you will be better off doing it now, rather than waiting until the drywall is up, you are doing any kind of maintenance, and you are forced to improvise.  Remove the old cables carefully and you can reuse them - maybe even for each other.

These push connectors are particularly problematic with short wires, because it is annoying/difficult to wrest the wires out of the push connectors, so people usually just snip them.   You'll want even more length for that.

Some people get snipper-happy and go out of their way to cut wires as short as they can.  Perhaps they think there are brownie points for that... Code does mention "neat and workmanlike", but functionality and maintainability come  before neatness. Another trouble spot is the panel - it's in vogue to go snip-snip*, but for maintainability, you should give every circuit enough length so both hot and neutral can reach every breaker position in the box.

You need to ground the box also.  Most boxes have a threaded 10-32 hole in the back for a ground screw. Some are on dimples so they work flush against a surface, look for that feature in boxes.  They sell special green #10-32 ground screws.  But any will do.  Do not use a deck screw or sheetmetal screw unless it is cut -32 thread or finer.

Rather than spend a big budget on connectors, I would recommend using wire nuts instead.  Not least because you can take apart wire nuts and reassemble them.  But even more, because wire nuts produce reliable connections, and push connectors - like any backstab - are notorious for series arcing and failure.  At least you are in a metal box, which will contain all but the worst series arcing.

I also see where you have knocked out two additional knockouts.  You need to fill those with knockout plugs. Those are trivial cost, about a buck for five.  Alternately, if you are expecting more cables to come in, you are painted into a corner with those push connectors.

Assuming you'll have 5 cables, it's time to start talking about box fill.  If the box is getting too crowded, you can get either box extensions or "mud rings" which provide some additional cubic inches.  On the Web there are "official" tables and calcs for box fill, but if  you are leaving yourself 9-12" of wire, you'll know when boxes are getting crowded.  The takeaway is that extensions (and larger boxes) are available.

My signature box when I have >5 cables converging is the 4-11/16 square x 2-1/8 (120 x 55mm) which I buy at electrical supply houses, where they are much cheaper.

* check out this disaster of a box.  Looks purdy, but now add a generator interlock and a whole house surge suppressor: those need to go on top, so every breaker must move down 2 spaces.  That expensive subpanel cable definitely will not reach, ouch!  And then, when they add GFCI or AFCI to some breakers, none of the neutrals can reach.  But he leaves lots of slack for the short service line (why?) Also, the panel is completely full, so it was a poor choice.


Mix paint using red, yellow and blue give Hex code

Re-think this. It's not going to work.
You're starting by eye anyway if you're picking from a colour on-screen. Unless your display is fully calibrated using a hardware colorimeter* you already don't know what colour it should be. Most consumer displays are set up intentionally punchy & over-contrast. This makes them look better in the shop. Setting your computer to the 'correct' profile provided by the manufacturer will not get you really much closer. You must use a colorimeter.
Ink/paint mixing doesn't use Blue, Red, Yellow, Black it uses Cyan, Magenta, Yellow & Black. The primary colours everyone was taught at school don't actually work in practise.
The conversion from RGB to CMYK requires not only your display to be accurately profiled, but also your output 'printer', because you are always expected to be 'printing' on a white substrate. Profiling, even on a CMYK colour-match system such as Pantone, depends also on the paper quality, reflective quality & absorbency.
Finally, you cannot mix under anything except calibrated light. If you don't have calibrated light, the best you can achieve is to go outdoors on a cloudy day. No domestic interior lighting is anywhere close to being accurate enough to attempt this task.
You also cannot know what colour paint will dry to based on a wet mix.
By the time you lump all those inaccuracies together you would be far better off going to your local paint store & selecting a paint chip. Get them to mix it. Their systems are fully calibrated to work from a wet mix to when the paint is dry.
Buy more than you need, because even on a fully-calibrated system, there will be batch discrepancies [this is why when you buy pre-mixed paint, you make sure all the labels say they're from the same batch].
*$£€ 250 for a decent one, already 10 times the cost of your paint.
You can convert RGB colour to RAL colour using such as https://rgb.to - however you are still not going to know if your RGB was correct in the first place. The RAL Colour Standard is used for information defining standard colours for paint and coatings and is the most popular Central European Color Standard used today.


What's the (current) process for getting Arrow locks fitted by USPS?

Happened to spot our regular USPS carrier delivering today's mail, and flagged him down to pepper him with the same questions I posted here.
The USPS will install Arrow locks, on request, free of charge. In fact, there doesn't even necessarily have to be an actual request — not an explicit one, anyway. He says that if/when he notices a building on his route has installed a key keeper with no lock, he'll let his manager know, and they'll show up to secure it. (We can, of course, also call and explicitly make that request.)
And since — in our particular situation — he already has the key to put inside the box once it's secured, installing the box itself is literally the only thing we need to do.


Color coding time

Cables have certain default colors of wires.  We're married to that, so usually trying to "color code wires by function" is a big mess.  But in this case, it works out to be very close. Let's get there.

I want you to mark both traveler wires with yellow tape (or another color, just not black, red or white).  No need to distinguish  one from the other. We wont be doing anything with them; I just don't want to confuse them with the wires we will be working with.

Now, remove the switch that is going away.  When you do, you will free up a "pigtail wire".  Remove it from the black bundle (always-hot).   Tape or paint it red.

With the travelers marked, there is one red wire on the 3-way switch.  Remove it and replace it with the red pigtail.

I believe at this point you have three red wires, all loose.  These are switched-hot.   Join them.

And we're done.


Can I eliminate the pump in my septic system?

No, you can't eliminate the pump. The drain field is higher than the septic tank.

If you have a mound system (elevated drainfield) or a pressurized sewer system, then the pump has to lift the effluent (outflow from the septic tank) up to the drain field level or pump against the pressure of a pressurized utility system.

If you eliminate the pump then sewage will eventually back up into your house. Yuck!

If the pump keeps tripping the breaker and you have replaced the breaker then the pump is probably malfunctioning and needs repair or replacement.

Good luck!


Repairing small damage to outside corners. Plaster walls.

Use plaster, 2-part body filler will be just as likely to fall off upon impact and is more difficult to use (IMO).

Rough up the areas around the repair to improve adhesion. Moisten the existing damaged area before carefully applying plaster repair. Mix it to a firm putty consistency then use a moistened wide putty knife to "feather" the plaster back onto the adjacent wall areas. Sand smooth.

You might consider using a corner protector for areas subject to frequent bumps, they come in all colors and sizes including clear:


How to wire a 240V disconnect panel for spa that does not require neutral?

The first configuration seems correct.  The second is definitely wrong, and the third may just be a waste of wire.
If the spa has only 240 volt loads, then a load side grounded (neutral) conductor is not required.  Which means you won't have to connect the grounded (neutral) pigtail from the GFCI breaker.
If you really wanted to, you could should install a grounded (neutral) as in the third configuration. This might be worth doing, if you might add 120 volt loads in the future.
Check the manufacturer's installation instructions for both the spa pack, and the breaker to be sure. But you should just be able to cap the pigtail with a twist-on wire connector.

After further review
According to Schneider Electric's faq, the line neutral must be connected. So configuration 3 is the only way to go.

On 2P 15A to 50A the GFI breaker will work with or without a load neutral wire. However, if there is no load neutral wire the breaker neutral (white curly wire) must still be connected to the panel neutral.
On 2P 60A and all 3P (QO only) there is no load neutral wire connection on the breaker. Again the breaker neutral (white curly wire) must be connected to the panel neutral.


How do I replace mortise locks with bored cylindrical locks?

You say you'll be removing the old lock, so why not replace the mortise locks and if you buy 5 or 7 lever ones they'll be more secure than the bored cylindrical lock.

Make sure you buy one with the handle spindle in the same position as the old lock.

When it comes to the door jamb, a lot of mortise locks have a "box keep" rather than just a plate defining the holes for the latch and the lock. See the photo on the Mortise Lock Wikipedia page for an example. This makes them more secure and you don't have to find an exact replacement as you'll be chiselling out a bit more of the jamb anyway.

The problem with replacing the mortise with a bored cylindrical lock is that the new lock is smaller than the old and really has to be in the same location on the door as it's the strongest part of the door. You'd have to fill the mortise hole with a solid block of wood which might well entail digging out more of the door to get a good fit. This would weaken the door. The same applies to the door jamb.


Is high temperature an issue with underfloor heating?

I have in floor heating (pex tubing in lightweight concrete) and it's inherently slow. You can't do normal "setback at night" sort of programming and expect 6-8 degrees of recovery quickly in the morning like you could with a forced air furnace.  My system also has an outdoor temp sensor that varies the temp of the water supplied to the floors. If you have a large thermal mass (like concrete), it's prone to overshoot the set point.
To be more specific to  your question:  Pushing the supply temp to 60c (140F) would not be wise even if the piping and flooring could take it.  The floor would get uncomfortably hot. 50c (122F) might be ok on coldest days.
Tell us more about your system. Boiler type? Control system? Flooring type? Type of tubing?
This may not be an answer, but I had too much to say to put it in comments.   I'll update this to be more consistent with an answer if you respond with more info.


Can I back feed my panel with a lower amp breaker than the service inlet?

If you have an interlock it would be legal to run your home off your generator. The only issue I can see would be if two much stuff was turned on it could overload your generator.


Would a ducted heat pump lose a lot of effeciency if the ducts are installed in an open crawlspace?

If flex ducting is used it comes pre insulated.
If you decide to install a split system make sure it can handle that level of cold.
Yes, some can but they are high end units.
If you need “emergency heat” or supplemental electric it gets much more expensive to run.
I find when you look at the added cost of installing ducting a “mini split” is a better choice. Mini splits have the outside unit but then run lines inside the home.
Each room or zone has its own heat /cooling unit.
Each room or zone can be controlled separately. The cost of ducting can pay for several separate inside units and you wont have the air cooling in the ducts even if insulated.
Mini’s can be cheaper to operate because they are not heating dead air space and if 1 room or zone is not needed to be heated or cooled turn it off and the outside unit slows down drawing less power or cycling for older technology.
What ever you decide make sure your unit can operate to the -7 range, I believe the best one I put in can function to -5 but some can go to -15. They are not as efficient at these extremes in any split system but depending on the brand / model they can do the job. they go into defrost mode more often.


Considering recessed lights in walk in shower

No it would not. You just need to make sure your recessed luminaires are rated for wet location.  As a side note if you have a combo luminaire with a exhaust fan then that would need to be GFCI protected, but just a luminaire with no exhaust fan then that does not need to be GFCI protected.


How do I reduce dust from driveway made of stone dust?

A very common dust control agent for road is Calcium Chloride it uses hygroscopic properties that allows it to retain water molecules.  It hydrates and forms a "liquid layer" that helps dust particles to stick and hold, this on the a road suppresses formation of dust.
The dirt roads in front of our home and surrounding streets are sprayed annually by the county maintenance to form a hard dust free road.

As and alternative a coating like Soilworks Gorilla Snot which is a biodegradable liquid copolymer that is sprayed on for erosion and dust control.
For the last 8 years the near by Marine Air Station has applied it for dust and erosion control on the training range.
As of this last summer it was started being used by the state highway department on desert areas near Tuscon/Phoenix to keep dust storms from causing traffic wrecks on the near by freeway.


Looks like a typical switch loop, where you have a power cable coming into the box, and another cable acts as an out and back in, though the switch, for the hot leg.

Connect the black and white of your fixture to the two whites in either configuration. (Technically, the white coming back from the switch is your "hot", so connect that to black if you know which is which. It should've been labelled by the installer.)


Sand and Paint
Veneer or replace treads - that's a lot of work.
Carpet - relatively easy - but you said you don't want that.
Don't try to sand and stain - the level of sanding will be much more than for painting and I suspect in the end you will find so much old paint that staining won't work well.
Which leaves Sand and Paint as the best option.
No matter what you do, if the stairs are older than 1978 then test for lead paint or just assume that there is lead paint and take appropriate precautions.


Dishwasher and garbage disposal wiring in same gang box

This is up to code even today with GFCI protection. I would locate the receptacles on the sink side so the dishwasher can be plugged in there through a hole in the cabinet as Jim Stewart commented and this would pass inspection unless there are some local code restrictions above and beyond the NEC. You could do it with a deep single gang and break the tabs on both the hot and neutral if the GFCI’s are in your panel.


You definitely have a hard one here.

And it really isn't helping that "the last guy" was plainly nuts, because it casts shade on all the previous work.

The best we can hope is "the last guy" changed the switches for aesthetic reasons, and either bought the wrong switches or connected them wrong.

But we have a few clues.

First, all the white wires go together.  There are lots of other arrangements that are more complicated, but fortunately, we don't have any of those.  No switch loops, no weird 3-way stuff etc. (well possibly one straightforward 3-way).

Second, the hoppy white wire which goes to both switches -- that is certainly an always-hot supply wire.   Let's mark this one black with tape because we know it's always-hot.

Third, you detected a different always-hot supply wire.  Let's also mark this one black with tape.  That tells me the above (hoppy) wire is actually carrying always-hot power onward to other locations.  This is a huge lucky break.  Normally onward wires are difficult to identify. But now we know (well, we hope) that no matter what, the above two wires are always-hot, must go together, and they must land on one terminal on each switch.

Now, we have 3 wires remaining, which is one more than we expect.  Weirder, there are two /3 cables in the box.  What I suspect is that the three wires go to:

One of the lights or switched receptacles
Another light or switched receptacle
Onward always-hot power to other outlets.

Well, honestly, it doesn't matter if we switch all three of them.

So I'm inclined to have you get a duplex switch (2 switches on 1 yoke) and do exactly that.  And see what happens.

Hooking it up

So... the two "supply hot" wires need to connect to each other, and to 1 terminal of a 1-way switch, and to the common terminal of the duplex switch.  You seem to know how to do that well enough.  I would actually have the "loop through" wire go to the duplex then onward to the single switch, that'll let you finish with an extra terminal for always-hot.

Each of the 3 remaining wires goes onto one of the switch outputs.

Now, you will have 3 things under control of switches.  Two will make sense, and on one, it will be obvious that it should be always-hot.  Once you identify it, move that wire to an always-hot terminal.  At that point you'll have 2 things switched, and you can go back to plain switches.


Replacing formerly half-hot converted to always-hot receptacles with NEW receptacles

Disclaimer - Not an electrician

If I were to do this as a professional job, I would surely verify the switch leg, or red wire in your case, was not supplying/disrupting power to any outlets or lights. Upon verifying, and since you've capped the line off at each outlet's junction box, I would likely cut the wire just long enough to cap it with a wire nut and wrap it in electrical tape.

This should make it clear to you, or future owner, that wire no longer has any purpose. I would also be tempted to go back through each outlet's junction box and repeat the process. You might remember a couple years down the road what you did today, but becomes more of a gamble as the years pass by.

Short of getting into the walls and pulling out that run, that's probably the next safest thing to do.


Box that was 'buried' into the wall or a poorly made junction between 2 pieces of different wires.


How can I figure out why the low voltage furnace fuse blows on heat but not cool?

Since you mention an igniter I'm going to assume a gas furnace. So start by turning off the gas. Then disconnect everything else other than the power in and the thermostat wiring.

Now turn on the thermostat. If the fuse doesn't blow, reconnect one thing (like the igniter) and try again. Repeat until something blows the fuse.

Since you have isolated the problem to the igniters, I would try just replacing one or both of them. That's probably cheap to do. If that doesn't work, then you're probably looking at replacing the control board.


This seems to be a cosmetic issue if it's 50 years old and not having foundation issues. In which case "Option C: fill it and leave it" seems perfectly reasonable.


If you're worried about the toxicity of the sealer, there are numerous options that are food-grade (for humans, no clue about how that applies to birds).  These are primarily used for sealing poured concrete counter-tops. A quick Google search should turn up some options, or you can just ask at your local big-box for a food-grade concrete counter-top sealer.


Key difference:

Halogen lights generally run from AC so this is what your transformer outputs.
LED's require DC so generally yes, you will need a rectified output from your transformer.

I am guessing the transformer is providing enough forward voltage on initial switch-on, but not thereafter.

You may be able to add a rectifier circuit at each bulb location to cope with this.


I resurfaced my concrete patio with a combination of Mapei products.  It worked out great.  Concrete surfacing systems are really unforgiving if you make a mistake selecting and applying the products.  To make sure you are on the right track you definitely should ask your Mapei rep to recommend the correct products and techniques - that's what I did.

I've done two major concrete resurfacing projects and worked with concrete countertop craftsmen.  What I learned is that the chemistry is sufficiently complicated that it is unwise to use concrete surfacing systems without support from the factory.  There will be questions about precisely which product to use and how to use it that only the chemists at the factory know the right answer to.  And, if you're just guessing, you're putting your whole project at risk.

Talk to your Mapei rep, be thorough with selecting the right product, and judiciously follow the application instructions.  If you skip any of those steps, the chance of success is pretty low and the resurfacing will probably be ugly or peel or both.  On the other hand, every project I've seen that followed these steps has been a success.


Replacing electric cooktop (40 amps) with induction range (50 amps)

If and only if the wire size going to the current cook top is #8 wire, even then it barely passes.  If not, upsize wire to #6 copper. In either case you must upsize the breaker size to 50-Amp.


There are a couple of tricky ways to do what you're after, but they aren't all that great
It is still possible to run kitchen small appliance branch circuits as split-receptacle MWBCs (vs. double-duplex MWBCs or solutions based on separate branch circuits), but it takes some panel gymnastics to do so for the reason you describe (namely, the lack of two-pole DFCIs on the market).  In particular, you have the choice of:

a GFCI protected common feeder using a 2-pole, 50A GFCI to protect a subpanel with 2-pole, 20A AFCIs in it
using individual "spa box" sized panels with GFCI breakers in them (you can even use actual spa panels for this) as subpanels off 2-pole, 20A AFCIs
or using a single large box to mount several unit mount GFCI breakers individually fed from 2-pole, 20A AFCIs in the panel.

The first approach is the simplest and cleanest to implement using "conventional" parts, but has the downside that a GFCI trip takes out all the kitchen receptacles.  The second and third approaches avoid this, but at the cost of either multiplying boxes at the panel or using harder-to-get boxes and breakers (Eaton (QCGFT) and GE (THQC...GFT) make lug-lug/unit-mount GFCI breakers, but they're not exactly home-store items, and you'd need a cutout box and brackets to mount them in/with, too).
Given that, it's probably simpler to have a conduit run out to your kitchen receptacles, so you can pull in extra wires for 240V outlets (which don't need AFCI protection), more circuits, or what-have-you.  This doesn't have to be terribly expensive, either, as it can be done using ENT ("smurf tube") since that's a mains-legal wiring method in most places that aren't Chicagoland (where you're already using conduit to begin with) or NYC.


Which is the outlet test port on this valve (VR8204A)

Looks to me like the test access port is located right where indicated in the picture below.

Note that the pressure meter is often also used to check for leaks after gas pipe and control valve installation. The meter unit would be attached. Then the gas supply turned on to pressurize the line. The meter will show a reading based on the line pressure. Then the source gas valve and all gas consumers on the line are left in their OFF state for 24 to 48 hours. If during that long period of time there is any noted movement of the needle on the meter then it is known there is a leak in the gas supply someplace that needs attention and correction.


Should be simple enough to fill it with joint compound yourself; I doubt you need a plasterer. Fill and strike off level with the ceiling. Wait for it to dry completely (24 hours is a good estimated time in most houses), fill again (the stuff shrinks) - after 2-3 coats, let it dry completely and sand lightly (will be dusty), then paint.

To evaluate drying, look for dark spots where it's thicker (not dry yet) and feel the surface to see if it's cooler than the surrounding wall (not dry yet.) For homeowner patching it's rarely worth getting the "setting" type joint compound which actually sets (more quickly) rather than drying - in larger projects or for a pro it can speed the process along. For a homeowner it will mostly be wasted (small amount used from a large bag but the large bag does not remain usable after a long time in storage) and adds complication (it's a dry mix rather than premix, and the mix instructions/quantities are often for mixing an entire bag at once.)

Using a small tub of premix (drying type) and taking a few days will generally be more sensible for DIY.


Setting traps will kill what you have, but you still have the problem of the mice getting in. you need to figure out how they are getting into the house. Mice can get through incredibly tiny holes, so it might be a chore to find them all. But as you find holes, seal them up. Steel wool is useful for this as they don't like chewing through it.


Why does my toilet randomly start running?

The typical toilet tank will have a flapper which seals the water in the tank. When you flush the toilet, the flapper is lifted and water is allowed to move from the tank into the bowl. Once a set amount of water has exited the tank, the flapper falls back down and re-seals the tank.

The most common issue with toilets randomly flushing is that the flapper has become brittle or sediment has formed on the flapper/tank which prevents the flapper making a complete seal. This will allow water to slowly drip from the tank into the bowl. If enough water is permitted to leak out of the tank, the filling mechanism will be triggered and the tank will refill. If enough water enters the toilet bowl, the self-siphonage will be triggered and the bowl will drain into the sewage system.

Here's a picture of a typical assembly:


Is it meaningful and possible to install two thermostat on one heating boiler and separate the heat

This is what zone valves are for

What you want isn't a standard thermostat that turns the boiler on and off -- what you actually want is to run the circulator and boiler on demand (i.e. they run if any zone is demanding heat) and then to use thermostatically controlled zone valves to turn on and off waterflow to each zone, whether it be a length of fin-tube, a radiator or three, a radiant floor in some room, or an air handler.  With this, you can run all three floors off of the same boiler even -- large buildings routinely are heated using independently zoned hydronic air handlers in each room all run off a single large boiler plant.

(As a sidenote, there are multi-circulator zoning techniques, but a circulator is bigger, heavier, more power-hungry, and more likely to break than a zone valve :)


What is the proper way to install/paint baseboard?

You would usually caulk the gap between the baseboard and the wall.  This is why I usually don't bother painting the trim before putting it up (unless I'm staining it).

Usually I would prime the wall first, then put up the trim, putty/caulk, paint the trim, then finally paint the walls.


Can I replace a bit of a cinder block wall with wood post to support a deck?

As mentioned in the comment above, the post which is all you should need on the corner, needs to be mounted on a concrete pier that goes to the frost line for your area. If there are other areas of your deck that are supported soley by a post or block on the slab that will rise or fall as ice forms and melts under the slab, needs to be resupported by concrete piers that go the frost line


What is the optimal duty cycle for a furnace?

100%. Won't happen with most systems (some inverter-drive heat pumps may come close), but the optimal situation would be for the heat delivery to exactly match the load, so the furnace ran all the time, and there were no standby losses.

The furnace your contractor has chosen seems like a reasonable choice IF the heat loss calculations are accurate.

As to why this is the case, one is the standby (non-operating time losses) such as heat going up the flue of a gas furnace (much less so with power-vented furnaces without a "stack") and the other is a comfort issue, best envisioned where you have a vastly oversized system that might run 5% of the time - so 5% of the time it's blowing uncomfortably hot air, and 95% of the time the house is cooling and areas near outside walls may get uncomfortably cold. With a less-oversized system that runs more of the time, heat is delivered more gently and more of the time.


Correct Circuit Sizing - Two Machines Woodworking Shop

Your best bet here is to run two 20A circuits.  You might be able to run the saw and collector at the same time on one 20A circuit because they normally operate below their peak power, but you would trip breakers often when cutting through difficult wood.

Your saw requires 13 amps (rounding up) and has a 15 amp plug.  The collector needs 11 amps and has a 20 amp plug.  Not sure on the plug choices by the manufacturer, but that's what they did.  When they are both operating you could have up to 26 amps.  That won't trip a circuit breaker immediately, but it won't last very long like that.

You can't run a 30A circuit and put two 20A receptacles on it.  General purpose circuits are limited to 20 amps.  Since you have a long run, it might make more sense to run something like a 60A service to a sub-panel in your shop for future expansion.  There are several other questions here about sub-panels and their wiring.


Just in case anyone stumbles on this post, I got a few answers from my local building department. Since my local building department uses unmodified versions of the 2015 international codes (Building, Plumbing, Residential, etc.), their guidance should be applicable to many other municipalities.

In short, the design I submitted was not approved. As the code clearly states, lavatories (i.e. the sink) must have a minimum clearance of 15" on either side, no exceptions. So, while there are many 24" and smaller vanities out there, if you put them in a corner, they will not be up to the 2015 International Residential Code or the 2015 International Plumbing Code.

Finally, as it relates to my questions on the shower curb infringing on the minimum clearances for the toilet and the shower, my municipality was not concerned with this, they said they would measure the clearances from the glass shower wall. Other municipalities may differ, so always check with your local inspector.

Here's a plan of the design that I eventually got approved by the city.


How long for the hot water to stop smelling with anode rod change?

You should have flushed the tank , this should be done once a year with a check on the anode and you may get 2x normal life or that has been my experience in the past. Also purge as much of the air out as you can and make sure the temp is high enough to kill bad stuff. -140 F is my minimum. But you can still flush it without taking the rod out.


How can I stain a faded area of my wood floor to match the rest?

In front of the patio door seems like the perfect location for a dust mat or a small piece of carpeting.


bolting together a mitred formica counter top

I am not sure if this is possible in your situation, but when I did mine, I put the top together first, using silicone between the joint, laid the tops upside down and level, then bolted them together. After that 2 helpers and myself set it in place and screwed from under.
Hope that helps.


Will silicone spray lubricant cause bare dry wood to swell?

A dry silicone spray lube is fine for bare wood applications. If you apply the spray to a cloth then wipe it on the binding surfaces, you should not have any problems with swelling. you can also use furniture polish, but in many cases, polish uses a silicone base as well with wax. Wax can build up, so I like pure silicon best.

As with any application to unfinished wood, test a small inconspicuous area to check for possible  discoloration if the surface is visible.


Can using a washing machine as a water reservoir damage it?

Just conjecture here, but I think you would be fine for a few days. They needs must design for unusual scenarios, like if you loaded it and then lost power before it could drain.

A top load machine rated for 22 lbs. is a large capacity machine, probably about 4.5 cu. ft. If loaded full of water without clothes (we will run with the presumption that it is designed to handle running with no clothes, because that could easily happen, in theory) 4.5 cu. ft. = like 34 gals. (~270 lbs.)

I will not address the concerns I have with actually drinking water that may have residue of detergent, bleach, and all manner of whatever got washed off of stuff. Better than dying of thirst I guess.


Are there other advantages to using turf over grass seed besides getting instant results?

I've looked at this in the past.  These two links are pretty general, but each has an interesting tidbit.

Link 1 "If your yard has especially shady spots, you might be better off seeding those areas, since most sod is made up of sun-thirsty grass varieties."

Link 2 "A prime disadvantage of sod is the limited number of grass species included in sod mixes."

Other than that, sod is a clear winner if you have more money than time.  I've done both, killed both, and revived both...lets just say I'm eyeing my neighbor's lovely rock garden with a bit of envy.


Can I use flux core wire in a MIG welder that was designed to use argon gas?

Yeah, that will work fine.  Flux core is sometimes used in MIG welders even when gas is available.  For example, flux core will work in windy conditions that would blow away shielding gas.  Also, flux core often gives somewhat better penetration than gas shielded wire.


Is this flowerpot insert made from asbestos?

Until you have it tested, you'll never know. Asbestos doesn't really pose a health risk unless it's frayed or crumbly and the particles are released into the air and you breath them in over a long period of time. If those inserts are outside and you're frequently watering the flowers, you should be fine.  If you decide to just get rid of them as a precautionary measure so you'll sleep better at night (I wore a facemask, gloves and a face shield while taking the last picture), just empty out the dirt and dispose of them properly without breaking them up,


The problem was that the igniter was getting old and (presumably) failed to work under high temperature. So it ignited the gas when the oven was cold, but failed to re-ignite the gas to maintain the temperature once the oven had preheated.

The repair man said that a failed igniter often causes my problem. He was unable to explain why the igniter works by heating up and yet fails to work when hot. In addition, the the igniter is made of carborundum, so its electrical resistance decreases as the temperature increases (the opposite of metal). But replacing the igniter did fix the oven.


Solved my own problem.

To unstick the ash door from the inside:

Sweep the loose ash off of the door and away from all the edges and hinges
Wire brush around the edges of the door
Sprayed a rust spray (PB Blaster brand) around the edges
Let soak for 15 minutes
Operate door using the poker several times
Tidy up inside
Clean out the ash dump BEFORE the next fire. A solvent puddle could be dangerous.

I did all the opening and closing of the door using a poker. This is the tool that should be used when the ash door is opened normally. Using something more aggressive like a pry bar may have simply bent the door.

The exterior access will be a weekend project. Previous owner painted it shut.

I am following up with my chimney inspector. I feel he did an adequate inspection of the chimney but for my money I would have preferred he checked EVERYTHING. Ash dumps can sometimes hold debris or varmints.


Soundproofing a room so sound doesn't go out as much

Hard to know without some details of how the place is built - if they hear the guitar player from 3 floors below, I suspect there's a ventilation-duct connection acting as a "speaking-tube". If it was just the ceiling, a "dropped" or "suspended" acoustical tile ceiling would probably help. If it is a duct connection, some type of acoustic baffle on that would probably help.

Plug the gaps around the pipes, to start. Possibly some sort of wall-covering as well as the already suggested ceiling-covering, if it's all brick and concrete.


Is there an ideal height for a workbench?

I don't think there is specific universal height as people aren't manufactured in a specific universal height.

Googling for "workbench height" returns many results asking the same thing: what is the best height for a workbench.

This page suggests the following method:

  A good rule of thumb is to make the workbench table the same height as
  the distance from the floor to your wrist when letting your arms hang
  down. So if you stand next to your table, the height would be exactly
  where your hands would be touching it if you put your palms on the
  table.

The page goes on to say that you should consider the type of work you'll be doing. If you're doing lots of detail work, you may want to sit (so the bench shouldn't be too low or too high to accommodate a chair). If you're standing and decide to put those foam mats down to make it more comfortable, you might want to add a half inch or so. The final suggestion is if you have the space for it, have more than one workbench.


If all of the can lights are on you can install a pendant light that has an independant pull switch. However, this will only work if power is going to all lights currently wired together. If you have a junction box in the ceiling near the can light you are converting: You could bypass that particular can light in the circuit and run new wiring to the new pendant light that has a pull switch.


Why is my electric wall heater slow to turn on and then quick to shut off?

I think it is one of two things.

The element is getting old and between the age and the moisture in the bathroom has taken the element close to end life.
The heater is 240V and maybe the breaker needs reset or it has gone bad or there is a bad connection in the heater.  I've seen wire connections fry pretty bad in some cases.

If it is the element and with today's technology, like camera phones and e-mail, you can probably work with Nutone to identify the heater, and Nutone pretty good about having parts like this on their shelve.

Just be careful with the element, because it could be very brittle.  No hard bounces or dropping it or parts on it if you take it out.


Boxing out floor joists when using 11-7/8 I-Joists?

Since I-Joists are an engineered system, it's vitally important to follow the specific instructions (including the "you can't do that" instructions) of your specific manufacturer for the specific product you have, as they are not all the same. Mine came with at least 4-5 double-sided pages of detailed instructions covering common issues.

I would strongly question the wisdom of following a floor plan layout destined for I-joists which parked a tub drain going through where an I-joist should be. That's poor planning for the construction method. If you are in the "as yet unbuilt" stage (which it sounds like) then redesigning the joist placement or tub placement so that they do not conflict would be the best approach. Generically, a single extra joist and different joist spacing (such as 19.2 inches rather than 24, or 12 rather than 16) in the immediate area should be an adequate solution that does not involve the compromises of mid-span support. Alternatively, a tub with a drain in a different location might solve it, without moving the tub itself.


How should I fill the holes where my curtain rod was, so that I can reuse them?

I had the same issue with my curtains.  I was able to use the Tapcon concrete 3/16” by 2-1/4” concrete anchors.

If your holes are too large for the Tapcons: try drilling out the hole to a ½ inch in diameter and about two inches deep.  Then add some construction glue and pound in a ½ inch dowel.  You can then reattach the curtain hangers with wood screws.