I see several problems:

1) Moisture in the joints not the cells:  If you look closely at the pictures, you'll see that moisture is penetrating at the mortar joints (vertical and horizontal). That means the cells are probably grouted solid (that's good), but they probably didn't grout the vertical joints (the space between the blocks). Masonry is VERY POURUS. When water penetrates the "face shell" of the masonry, it probably finds a void between the blocks and then runs down the wall and fills up the void or "wicks" through the wall an migrates into the garage. (I know, I saw the paint on the exterior too, but it's useless keeping water out, unless you use a "block filler" first. Once water is in, the paint is probably enough resistance to keep it from coming out...it's just easier to migrate towards the warmer side.)

2) Mortar joints:  Your close-up picture shows some of the mortar joints (vertical and horizontal) are not "struck" or "tooled". Striking or tooling does two things: a) compresses the mortar so it's more waterproof, and b) removes any extra mortar that may create a lip to catch water running down the wall.

3) Your front wall (or back wall...the one with the sledge hanging up) has the same issue, but minor. This would indicate that it's not getting the same amount of water on it. So, that means your neighbor's roof is still causing problems. Yes, the gutter was great, but not all water carefully goes into the gutter in a storm.

4) Your masonry wall extends about 3' above Your neighbor's gutter. From the inside, you can see that the "wet spots" start 2' down. The wall above the gutter seems dry inside...probably due to the drying effect and partly because it doesn't have enough water in the wall to fill up to that point.

Repair??  Hmmm...it's too narrow to work in, so I'd experiment with hanging a tarp in the gap. If it decreases the moisture spots, then you need to fill and paint the wall. (I'll loan you my 9 year old grandson, who is skinny enough to get in there...and still be able to get out.)

You could also experiment with drilling 1/4" holes near the bottom of the wall in a couple of the wettest spots to see if water runs out. It would be like a weep hole...but make sure water has a place to go, so it doesn't back up and flow into the hole. (Be prepared to fill the hole if things go bad.)


Larger issue with foam products is that it's a huge fire hazard.

Likely hollow wooden (thin plywood and wooden batten) construction. Masonite® (tempered hardboard) would be another suitable sheet material.

Could be done in drywall if you were a masochist.


Should a ceiling fan on a long rod move when using the pull chain?

Fans are mounted in a ball and socket type joint, both to allow them to self level and to allow a slight movement to reduce vibration being transmitted back up through the mounting hardware to the ceiling. Slight shifting when you tug on one side of a pivoted fan is likely not a concern.

Also, 2 foot downrods (of the proper type) are not at all unusual in standard fan setups.


You will want to limit the voltage drop in your DC distribution wiring to 5% or less of the 12V. That would be equivalent to a 0.6V drop. An online wire size calculator suggests that for 600 feet at 3A that you would need to use 1 AWG copper wire.

Cost of that size wire suggests that you may want to consider distributing the AC mains voltage instead and converting to 12VDC at the load points. The reason being is that the amount of voltage drop in the wiring follows the amount of current through the wire. 30-40W at a line level voltage results in less than 0.5A down the wire and 5% voltage drop at 120VACrms makes room for a larger allowable voltage drop than the 0.6V at 12V. The net result is that a much more reasonable wire size can be utilized.

If you use optical fiber cables they could be in the same conduit as DC cables. You may want to separate them from AC mains cabling just because it seems like a good idea to keep AC mains by itself.


How can I stop heat loss due to an uninsulated porch?

You are correct that having a hot radiator on what's effectively a cold space - the porch - is very inefficient and, presuming nobody's on the porch most of the time, wastes a lot of energy.

And you are correct that the hot water going into that radiator is being cooled in the process.

However, it is unlikely that the water is going to any other radiators, but rather it's going back to the boiler to be reheated.  Nevertheless, you are right that stopping water flow to this radiator will save you on your heating bills.

But - if you stop the flow of water through the radiator, no amount of insulation will keep the pipe from freezing, because with no place for the cold water to go, the hot water in the rest of the system WILL NEVER reach the pipe you insulated.  It's just like turning on the hot water in a cold bathroom - the water runs cold for a while even though the hot water is available elsewhere in the house.

On a cold enough day, the stopped pipe with water in it will freeze, no matter how hot the rest of the system.

The best solution to this is to remove the radiator completely.  To accomplish this, you need to trace both the input and output pipes for the radiator in question back to an interior space that doesn't ever drop below freezing.  The entire system will then need to be drained, and the input and output pipes cut off and capped so that the useless radiator can be removed.

EDIT:

Since you're looking for a short-term, this winter solution, here's what you can do for now to minimize the waste.

DO NOT TURN OFF THE RADIATOR
DO turn down the radiator to as low as you can get it without shutting it off.  You don't want it to have a chance of freezing.
Wrap the radiator in blankets to keep in the heat it does generate and conserve energy as much as possible.


What's the best way to patch baseboard trim?

I'm not sure that "patch" piece is actually helping at all. It might very well look better with just some caulk and the large gap.

If you're set on trying to patch it, the first thing is to make sure the patch piece is sized correctly. It might just be the perspective of the picture, but it the piece looks like it might be larger than original baseboard.

After you have the new piece secured (glued) in place, you can use wood filler to fill all the gaps.  Apply generously and try to feather it into the rest of the baseboard. You might need more than a single application.  Once fully dried, sand down the filler so it blends well with the rest of the baseboard, prime and paint!


Is there a problem with this toilet flange or flange installation?

Flush with the finished floor is optimal, so it looks OK in that regard.

The warp is a bit concerning, it looks like someone forced it down over a bump or protrusion or maybe over tightened the toilet to it and damaged it (although it would be expected that the toilet itself would break under that amount of stress).

  Leaking issues, toilet rocking back and forth

These things point to a loose flange, loose toilet attachment, or lame application of wax seal. Have you grabbed the flange and pulled on it a bit to ensure it is attached to the pipe and floor properly? I can't see any fasteners in any of the many available bolt holes provided to secure the flange to the floor (although it may be the angle of your pic).

I try to use only cast iron flanges because I have seen many plastic and thin steel ones break. Maybe it's time to call a reputable licensed local plumber (instead of the builder or his "plumber") and bill the builder for whatever repairs the plumber ends up making.


flat concrete roof with weathering course leaking in many places

A new layer of waterproof material; generally referred to (here) as a re-roof , though of course you would not be replacing the concrete roof. Depending exactly what you mean by a "weathering course" that will probably be getting replaced, removed and replaced on top of a new waterproof membrane located under it, or covered by the new roof system.

Re-roofing is generally the best/most economical time to consider whether you might benefit from adding insulation to your roof to mitigate heat and/or cold passing through it.


I would not try to reuse drywall especially on a ceiling. The strength is in the paper and it is torn and the gypsum is now broken so trying to reuse is not a good idea. A small piece sure but the texture on that will make reuse more of a problem than it will save so no it is not usually a good idea even for a home job where you are doing the labor and not paying extra for that time. In truth I don’t even save new pieces less than 1/2 sheet because they are just not worth packing to a new job.


How to change dishwasher embedded in wood floor?

I would get a sawsall type of tool and cut it out with metal cutting blades. Be sure if you take this route to turn the power and water off in case you cut the lines.


First time home owner - books to introduce different systems and things to know (Closing in another 2 weeks)

The home inspection is the standard way to get started with this knowledge. You hire an inspector to not only look for problems, but to instruct you about the systems in your house. You can think of an inspection as the Owner's Manual customized to your new home -- the inspector should tell you what upkeep is required, how various systems can fail, what to keep an eye on, and what you should consider investing in. If you don't have answers to all these questions, both explained to your satisfaction and documented in a report, then the inspector hasn't done his job.

If you've already had an inspection, but didn't get this information, call up your inspector and ask their advice. If you got inspection "results" but weren't around to learn about all the systems, try to schedule a follow-up visit so you can get that experience (it's worth paying for, if you have to).

We had an excellent inspector when we purchased our first home a couple years ago. Since then I've made numerous improvements and learned a lot, but I might not have known where to start without his guidance. Books and the internet are helpful but there's nothing like an expert's eye to alert you to the most important issues in your specific house.


It probably depends a lot on what your contract with them says.
If there was a "punch list" period during which you were to report issues and they were to fix them, and that time period has passed, then it's probably time to sign and let the warranty department handle it.
If there was no such period, then I'd contact them and very nicely indicate that there are a few new issues that you've discovered that you'd like to have squared away before signing off on an otherwise fantastic house. (i.e. be really nice about it, and they're likely to keep you high on the priority list, be angry about it and they'll drag their feet.)


Tankless/on-demand (is this the same as inline?) water heaters only heat if the water flow rate is above some minimum, typically around 0.5 gallons per minute. As the water temperature is made more cold, less and less hot water is going into the mix. At some point, the hot water flow decreases below the threshold and the water heater turns off, yielding cold water flowering through the hot water pipes.

Your water heater may have an adjustable flow rate threshold, and if so, it could be decreased. Another solution would be to decrease the temperature setpoint to be closer to the desired final temperature (though you may need the hotter water for dish or clothes washers).


Given that it worked fine for a year, I wonder if something came loose and produced a dip in the line. I used to have to maintain a few dehumidifiers that were (supposedly) drained by garden hoses connected to the tanks. The garden hoses went down to a drain 12 feet below, so you'd think there would be plenty of incentive for the water to drain, and yet fairly slight bends in the hoses (not pinching them) that were below the tank would still manage to hang up the drains to the point that they would fill the tank and shut off. We'd go rearrange them and the tank would drain, but some time later things would shift enough that the problem recurred. It was not a good system.

Not sure if I'd go for trying to solve what's there, or putting in a larger drain line on general principles, but then, I don't know what size yours actually is, just that it seems common for A/C installers to use tiny pipes (and sometimes hoses, or sections of hose) for the condensate drains.


GFCI in garage keeps tripping when I turn on kitchen lights

It does not seem normal that a GFCI in your garage should control outlets in the living room and bedroom.  Usually, they are connected to outlets in bathrooms and/or kitchens.  Nevertheless, you should try unplugging the two cable boxes and see if the problem persists.  If it does, then the kitchen lights need to be investigated.  If it does not, then you need to investigate the outlets that are used by the cable boxes. If you are comfortable around electricity, you can take apart the outlets and/or the light fixtures and look for wiring problems such as loose wires, worn insulation, etc.  If you are not, then you should call an electrician.


This is a G9 halogen bulb:

Note G9 is the name of the socket and form factor, but it says nothing about wattage. Voltage should be mains.
Yours is a G9 COB LED:

Since the original bulb uses LEDs, the fixture may not be designed to handle the heat of halogen, so it's better to replace it with a G9 LED bulb. As for wattage, check the fixture, but really you should be able to use a bit more watts like 5W instead of 2W if you want more light, it shouldn't melt... If you put a 20W halogen lamp in a 2W all-plastic LED-only fixture it will probably melt.
Get a flicker-free bulb if you can, they're easier on the eyes. If you use a dimmer, make sure it says "dimmable". Note the LED bulbs don't all have the standard length, so you might want to measure the space inside the fixture to make sure it fits. For example this one is bigger, so you'd have to check.


How can I build a cheap, do-it-yourself dance floor?

Would a bamboo rug work?

It'd be easy to roll up when not in use. I don't know if it's a great dancing surface, though.


Can I pull CAT6 cable via old RJ11 panels?

There are two problems you are likely to run into.

Pulling new wiring with existing is hit and miss, sometimes you can do it but sometimes wires are clipped/stapled in places you can't access, sometimes the cable routes have too many turns or obstructions to pull and sometimes the wires are just directly buried in plaster.

Old phone wiring was often daisy chained whereas Ethernet wiring needs an individual run from each point to the network switch.

The bottom line is you may be able to reduce the damage to decor by pulling wiring in some places using the existing wiring but it is very likely you will end up having to do some damage in the process of getting the new wiring in.
Pulling through the wall between an outlet and a space under the floor or above the ceiling may or may not be possible, pulling through a run between multiple rooms without any intermediate pull points is highly unlikely to be possible.


How can I run a new light circuit from a GFCI outlet?

To wire up a pull string light switch you basically just need to bring "hot all the time" power to it. The same sort of unswitched power you bring most plugs in your house. The pull cord on the light will act as the "light switch". So you just need a black (hot all the time) wire and a neutral (right back to the panel) wire.

Looking at your GFCI you will notice you have it right there. Your GFCI will be labelled LINE and LOAD on the back of the plug on the plastic. Whatever wire nut the black and white wires go to on the LINE side of the GFCI is where you want to attach your black and white wires going up to your light.

So in review. Take a 14/2 wire, run it from your GFCI box up to your octagon box for your pull string light. On your lamp base put the black wire on a copper screw and the white wire on the silver looking screw. In the GFCI box, look at where your white and black wires coming off the LINE side of your GFCI are going (to what wire nut). Attach your black wire from the octagon box to the wire nut the black wire from the LINE of the GFCI went, and your white wire from the octagonal box to wire nut the white wire went from your LINE of the GFCI.

And don't worry about the red wires for now....


How to replace the copper connector under the bathroom faucet

Forget about epoxy for fixing that. The pipe is too damaged and being crushed in like that will definitely affect water pressure out of the faucet.
You're looking at cutting out the bad section and using compression fittings or sweating in a new section of pipe or just connecting the to ends after removing the damaged area.  Trying to do this under the sink would be a pain. I'd remove the faucet and do repairs, then reinstall the faucet.
You might even think about just replacing the faucet if the fixing part worries you.


Does gold window film reflects more or less light and heat than silver?

Each manufacturer publishes ratings for their products. You’ll want to compare:

Visible light reflected
Visible light transmitted (that’s transmitted from exterior to interior)
Total solar energy rejected (this will be a %)
Solar heat gain coefficient
U value
Solar heat rejected (this will be a %)

Comparing these ratings will tell you their performance, and thus which is “better”.

Also, you can get a rating of visible light to solar heat gain. It’s a ratio you may want to consider. One type of film may block a significant amount of solar gain, but will make your room “dark”.


The bare copper wires are your ground wires. They don't need to be connected to the box because it's non metal. The grounds are all crimped together in the box as they should be. Once you replace the broken switch, the ground wire in the box should be attached to the green screw on the switch. At the fixture location, the bare copper ground needs to be attached to the fixture ground wire with a wire nut. If the fixture box is metal, then the ground wire needs to be attached to it. Any bracket needed to mount the fixture should also be connected to the ground.


There are four reasons a temperature and pressure valve will release water.
The valve was physically opened
If you; or somebody else, opens the valve, it will obviously release water.
Since you didn't mention holding the valve open, I'll assume that's not the problem.
Bad valve
If the valve is bad, or junk is stuck in it, it can cause water to be released.
Since a plumber just replaced it, I'd guess this is not the problem either.
Pressure is too high
When water is heated, it expands. This expanding water increases the pressure in the closed plumbing system. If the pressure gets to high, the valve will open to release some of the pressure.
You'll have to put a gauge on the system to determine if this is the problem.
Temperature too high
If the temperature of the water in the tank gets too hot, the valve will open to release some of the overheated water.
Again, you'll have to put a gauge on the tank to find out if this is the problem.

Since it sounds like it's only a small about of water, I'd lean towards high pressure.
To verify this, you'll want to connect a pressure gauge that can remember the maximum reading to the system. Then use the system as normal, checking the gauge from time to time.
Once you determine tha actual cause, then you can start looking for a cure.


Door, space separator options with limited frame space?

I'm still not 100% clear, however, I can think of 3 options:

Make both doors pocket doors.

These slide into the wall and are, therefore, quite narrow. Where the door butts up against the "PARVEKE" wall, it would only be 1" - 1 1/2" wide (~25-37 mm) and should fit against the trim between the existing window and door in that wall.
You would, in effect, be using the "PARVEKE" wall as the right side of the door's frame instead of using that part of the frame. This would take some careful work to ensure that the door's top track/frame is accurately attached to that wall so the door can slide properly.
The door would open into the wall to the left (from the point of view of the drawing) and close to the right against the window/door trim.
You might need to adjust/replace the existing trim so that it's a flat surface for the door to close against if you need a good, tight closure. i.e. if you have some sort of curved surfaces on the trim now, the door may not fit well against it.
A matching pocket-door (opening whichever direction is most convenient/aesthetically pleasing) at the other location is an easy install.

Make both doors barn doors.

Barn doors slide along the wall (instead of inside the wall like a pocket door) and don't swing. They take up minimal floor space.
It's possible that the door that meets the "PARVEKE" wall will butt up against the trim (you'd want it to be on the window side, not the door side) and that may not be optimal, but you would still be able to operate the window.
Install a matching door at the other location.

Offset the "PARVEKE" wall door further to the left.

This will take the most work.
Build a short stub wall dividing "MH" and "OH" and have this meet the "PARVEKE" wall, replacing the trim between them with a wall at a 90° angle.
You now have the exact same wall condition for this door as you do for the one to the left and you can use any door you choose in any width you desire without worrying about running into the trim between window and door (since that trim no longer exists).

A fourth option:
Drop the door at the "PARVEKE" wall and go with only the door on the left.


Can I drill a hole for a faucet in a porcelain sink?

I would not recommend treating the area in the center rear of the sink as a "knock out". Trying to remove that portion of the sink with a hammer is foolhardy at best and could lead to splintered and cracked procelain on the top side of your sink.

You would be far better off to apply a hole saw made for this type application. Here is an example of a diamond grit hole saw that may be suitable:

Link to tool on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HDG112-38mm-Diamond-Grit/dp/B003K2Q60S/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1348794381&sr=1-16&keywords=diamond+holesaw

Hole saws of this type are often used with a 0.25 inch diameter drill bit acting as a centering agent to keep the hole saw in its cutting track. It is often a good idea to pre-drill the guide hole for this before deploying the hole saw. Look for a diamond dust drill bit for drilling this hole.

Use of the hole saw will likely require the adding of water into the cut area during the cut process to keep down the heat buildup on the hole saw.

If it was my project - I would drill the guide hole from under the sink first in order to get it centered properly and then come back and drill out the necessary larger diameter hole with the hole saw from the top side.

Last Comment - Before investing a whole lot of money in tools for a one-shot project you owe it to yourself to investigate the cost of a complete sink replacement that has the appropriate hole configuration to meet your needs. You may find that a retailer may offer a good deal on pricing if you purchase a sink and faucet at the same time.


Three way switch circuit leaking voltage

The 40V you are measuring is a typical value for a "phantom voltage". It is caused by capacitive coupling between wires, through the insulation, and usually in long runs of parallel wires AFTER the switch.
These couplings are high impedance and usually when connecting any load, the voltage will read 0. However, LED units (bulb & regulator) are high impedance loads at voltages below their operating voltage (e.g. 40V), and so it is possible they consume a bit of power even when the source is a phantom voltage. Regulators are notoriously short lived if they don't have enough voltage to work properly. Ironically, the transistors can overheat.
You can confirm this effect as follows: replace one of the lights with an incandescent (or add an incandescent to the load), and the voltage with the switch OFF should drop to 0.
Also, what voltage do you measure at the socket, when you disconnect the 3-way switch? And the other 3-way switch?
Your other point about the 6 month longevity with all bulbs usually suggests they are running at 240V rather than 120V due to mis-wiring somewhere. So to be sure: you are measuring 120V at the socket, between live and neutral (not live and ground), right?
And another check: you don't have weird issues when switching a 240V appliance on that suddenly lights get brighter, or circuits that don't work start to work? (This means that one of your two phases is not working correctly)
Update based on your 20V measurement: Yes by adding a load the voltage would drop, and since it drops by half (which is a lot), the phantom voltage remains suspect number 1 for the "faint glow". If you screw in something of higher wattage (20W...40W) like an old inc. bulb, I would suspect it to drop to 0V.
Are your LED bulbs dimmable? I appreciate that with your simple on/off switching the bulbs don't have to be dimmable. But, dimmable ones deal better with under voltage, they deliberately switch entirely off below a certain threshold, and that might help you here.
Update based on the LEDs being dimmable: The last thing I can think of is to try a different bulb / unit. Without cutting new holes for recessed/regulated systems, you could try a replacement just by wiring it up without installing it just yet. Not all LED bulbs and drivers are made the same, and you could get lucky (electrically, I mean).
The next solution would be to add a dummy load to the circuit after the switch. This is silly if you are trying to save power, but inc. bulbs are impossible to find. This is why we want to check the voltage (n OFF position) with a regular bulb (if you have one), to make the load a bit higher than with just under-driven LED lights.
Can you measure the voltage between the neutral and the ground, or the neutral and a neutral elsewhere in the house (use an extension cord). Let's eliminate a poor neutral as a possible cause too, since you have mixed problems.
The phantom voltage seems to be coupled after the switch, and so far we have the following possible solutions:

Move the wiring after the switch: this is lots of work, likely involves drywall repair, so definitely a last resort
Replace the lighting: this is a bit of a draw of luck, but some LED bulb & box regulators or integrated LED bulbs may have a threshold shutoff below which the LED switches itself off, rather than leaving it on, "leaking" and leaving a glow.
Insert a relay in the circuit right at the socket.

The relay has 120V switching poles (say 5A) and a 120V coil, and must be placed inside an electrical box. It will be wired so that the switch side of the relay simply connects the relay's feed to the bulb. It works as follows: if the voltage is too low, the relay is off, and the LED is cut off from the low voltage. If the voltage is high enough, the relay is on, and the bulb is fed the hight voltage.
There is the possibility that the relay too will switch on as a result of the phantom voltage. Should this be the case, we can experiment with a resistor placed before the relay, so that the relay's feed voltage (but not the LED's) is lowered enough to not trigger on the phantom voltage. It requires a bit of experimentation. Should you like this option, I can sketch you a diagram.


How can I adjust a door latch so that it engages securely?

You should check the hinges, and make sure the screws are tight and that the hinges are not worn out. Evidence of a worn out hinge will be that the door hangs at an angle, which is likely to be visible along the top of the shut door. If the door appears to be crooked, or if it wobbles when you lift it, then you should replace the hinges before moving making further adjustments.

In order to move the strikeplate so that the door shuts, you may need to enlarge the hole. Sometimes the adjustment is minor and you might have trouble putting the screws close to, or half-way overlapping previous screw holes. If you have a wooden door jamb, you can plug the old strikeplate's screw holes with a dowel rod. You should make sure the dowel is tight fitting (maybe requiring a light tapping with a hammer); use a drop of wood glue with the dowel so that the repaired screw holes are nice and solid. Let the glue dry before piloting new screw holes.

Here's a how to video about adjusting a door so that it closes.

Edit- based on pictures above here are some more details:

Double check the hinges. If they are okay, then you need to move the strike plate about 1/8" toward 5:00.

Shopping list:

Sharp 1/2" chisel
Box cutter
Flat-head screwdriver
Hammer
1" paddle bit
1/8" dowel
Wood glue
Drill
1/8" drill bit
Dremel tool with cut-off disk


AEG “micromat_combi 635” halts with error E14. What to do?

Indeed†, it's a malfunction of some air valve (also called a damper mechanism), either a motor or a switch. The motor drives a plastic white wheel, which is shaped as to trigger a switch at some positions. The plastic wheel also drives a pole that opens an outlet that is visible from within the oven, next to its internal light.

Click images to enlarge

The motor is not a stepper motor; mine is labelled:

  Synchronous motor GM-16-24RT3
  230/240V 50/60Hz 2.5/2W 5/6 R.P.M. C.W.
  Nakagawa Shanghai China

Google finds a lot of hits searching for GM-16-24RT3, 8996619164990 or 76X5609. Prices range from €42 to a whopping €150; some websites even show different prices for the very same motor, branded for AEG or Zanussi... The turn table and stirrer use similar motors, but it seems they differ in rotating speed (not too important for the air valve, I'd say) and for the D-shape axle.

On normal behaviour, when plugging in the mains power, you should hear a soft click. That's a relay switching on the 110/220 volts power for the motor. The motor should then run immediately, until the appliance can safely tell that the air valve is in its closed position. Also, the motor will run to open the valve whenever the microwave is used, or to close it when the appliance is switched off after using it as a microwave. If the expected position is not found within 60 seconds, then you'll get the E14 error. (A normal full round from closed, to open, to closed, takes about 12 seconds.)

In my case sometimes the motor started running right away, sometimes did not run at all, but also often the motor seemed to be switched on only after about 20-30 seconds after plugging in the power. In all cases I could hear some relay click (but there's quite of few of those) as soon as I plugged in the mains power. However, after repairing, it now always runs right away. So in retrospect I assume the motor should have started turning right away before repairing as well.

Getting the motor

First of all: there's some big capacitors inside the housing, that might cause electric shocks long after you disconnected the main power. Beware.

There's no need to remove the front panel. Even more: the front panel cannot be removed without removing the cover first. Once the cover is removed, you'll have access to the motor anyhow. So leave the front panel in place.

Seen from above, the plastic wheel should turn clockwise. Due to its internal gears, one cannot move it manually, but applying a little force (just a little!) might make it start running. To ensure the motor is causing the problem one might want to see if it gets power (110/220 volts), or play with the switch a bit. One might feel some light vibrations as well. (I only noticed vibrations when I took the motor out of the appliance and connected it to the mains power using some wires.)

Opening the motor

I found it impossible to bend back the little clamps that keep the motor's cover in place, but with some force I could simply flip it open with a screwdriver.

It should be fairly easy to remove all gears, incuding the middle gear with its magnet. The latter was stuck in my motor and the first time took some extra force to take it out. But really, one should only have to overcome the magnetic force, nothing else. None of the gears are somehow fixed. There are no springs inside. :-)

In my case the internals of the motor (especially the middle gear with its magnet) were just a bit sticky. This caused the motor to not get to run at all, or just taking too long to start running. I cleaned it up a bit, and applied some new grease.

Reassembling the motor

An electrical motor that runs on AC power can often randomly run in two directions, while this one should only turn clockwise. When starting to run in the wrong direction it should be blocked, which will make it change its direction. To achieve this, the second gear has some notch that can rotate by itself (limited by the little plastic pin next to the axis of the second gear), and can block the first gear (with the magnet) if rotating into the wrong direction. This rotating notch and the second gear are "attached" to one another using some grease, which makes them rotate together unless somehow blocked. So: don't remove the grease from the second gear!

When reassembling, ensure that the second gear is in a position that makes this mechanism work: when the electrical contacts are at the bottom, the little notch of the second gear should be on the right. (This will make the little plastic pin next to the axis of the second gear fall between the two legs on the other side of the notch.) You might need to turn the first gear (with the magnet) a bit to ensure the second gear fits:

After assembling the first and second gears, ensure that the first gear can only be rotated counter-clockwise. Rotating it clockwise makes the second gear go counter-clockwise, which should make the notch of that second gear move in front of the notch on the first gear, and hence block it. Rotating the first gear counter-clockwise makes the second gear rotate clockwise, and hence the notch of the second gear will move out of the way just a bit. (Given the magnet, rotating the first gear will feel a bit weird.)

After closing the motor I did not need to tighten the clamps any better. Once the motor is in place in the appliance, there's no way the cover could get loose anyway.

† As I don't have some blog where I can post this, and as many other websites don't allow for images, I have decided to post my experiences as a self-answered question. I originally posted on ApplianceWiz, but that site is about to die. On that site (repeated here for search engines) someone responded: I just have the same error with a THOMSON microwave oven [...] So I opened my oven and I saw the motor you've described. I hope someone finds it useful one day.


Remove the screw and hinge.  Break apart a wooden toothpick and place a few pieces in the existing hole.  For extra help, you can combine the pieces of toothpick with a little wood glue.  This will help hold them in place before the door is back on and also add extra stability once dry.  Then put the door back on and use the existing screw.  This should help hold it in place for a while.

In my experience, this will last a few years, and then when it gets loose again, do it again.  It will be like new.


How can I build a shelving unit like this?

I found a matching image at http://www.furnitureinfashion.net/beech-home-wall-shelves-lasse-p-6628.html?osCsid=cf4c725a6d1c4b00d50adca495f827d3 which has dimensions of W85cm x D16cm x H47.5cm.

As to building it, I've built several like it over the years, and believe it really is up to you. What I mean is you can take this basic design and modify the dimensions to suit your taste. I use Excel and scale my plans until I'm satisfied before I even buy the wood. Also, you can build it out of any number of materials including: plywood, MDF, and solid wood. Also, the way you put it together is often dictated by your tools and skill. If you are a beginner and want to stain it, I would suggest you go with solid wood. It will be more expensive, but will simpler to build. I would also suggest you go to your local Lowes, HD, etc. and look at their selection of wood and see whether they have a hardwood you like. Looking at the picture, it looks like it veneered to resemble maple. But, I wouldn't recommend you use maple as it is too expensive. See if you can find another hardwood (I wouldn't use a softwood) that you like.

Another thing that will dictate your plan is what type of saw you have and your previous skill using it. Ideally you would want a table saw or radial arm saw for the cross cuts. If you don't have one of these, or have no prior furniture building experience, I'd recommend you either buy a pre-cut kit (if you can find one), or find a local woodworking business to cut them for you. Otherwise you'll likely end up with misaligned or uneven cuts that will detract from the appearance.

I don't want to sound negative, but, to me, even though this may look like a simple project, it's not a beginner project unless you can be satisfied with less than perfect work. If you do decide to go ahead though, just don't expect it to be perfect or you may be disappointed. Just enjoy the journey and hope you get to where you want. Also, there are tons of web sites that provide free info on cutting and assembling bookshelves. Although they won't look like this, their planning, cutting, assembly and finishing techniques will give you the knowledge you need for the project.


Any tricks to extend laminate floor without having to re-lay the whole floor?

Well you are lucky because of those patio doors.  What do I expect to see by patio doors - TILE!

So:

Go out and find some faux travertine (or the real stuff) tile.  It looks like you need some 12"x12"s.
Measure 24.5 inches from door all the way across.
Cut out laminate with circular saw.  (several saw types will work here)
Glue a tile edging strip about 1/4" from laminate (this may be the bottom holder of a transition strip but that's another question)
Mix thinset.
Install tiles.  You should only have to cut the two tiles on the far right.
Wait a day for thinset to cure a bit.
Grout.  You should have a spacer by door, middle, and before transition holder.
Clean up area.
Glue down transition.

Pros:

It will look nice.  You could even put a third row in here.
Depending on tile it could cost less than $150.
The tile will transition to the door much better than the laminate.  There isn't really any kind of good trim to put by the door in your situation - it is a common question on this site.
Your laminate seems to have long runs.  The transition should give it some play.
It is like 3-4 hours of total work.


What is involved in bleeding air from a multi residential hot water baseboard heating system installed in 1965?

Bleeding a water based central heating system is a DIY job anyone can do.

Find the bleed valves and crack each one open a bit (only one at a time though you don't want flooding). You should be hearing a hiss as air is pushed out. At some point water will get pushed out, careful it can be hot if the system is on, which is your sign to shut the valve again. If the hissing stops (no air is getting pushed out any more) then that means the systems needs more water.

Air will tend to collect at high points in the line. If there is any thought put into the system those areas will have bleed valves. Your best bet is to bleed from all of them regularly (once a year is fine).


Assuming this is an interior door, I'd just scribe the top of the door parallel with the top of the jamb and plane it to the line.  It actually looks a tad out of square and a bit tight in the jamb.


What is the correct way to read a gas meter?

Ccf stands for 100 cubic feet. So the meter is read 8953 hundred and 9035 hundred, or 895,300 cf and 903,500 cf respectively.
More Info:
When reading a meter, you'll notice each dial has an arrow. This arrow points the direction the needle spins. The number above the dial indicates how much the value increases, per revolution of that needle.  For example. If the needle furthest to the right spins from 0, all the way round and back to 0. You've used 1,000 cubic feet of gas. This number is not a multiplier.
Reading the Meter
If the dial is exactly on a number, that's the number you use. If the dial is between two numbers, you'll usually use the smaller of the two. The exception here, is when the dial is between the 9 and 0. In this case, the 9 is actually smaller, and so should be used.
Here's a graphic from The Public Utilities Commission of Ohio, explaining how to read a standard 4 dial meter.


What pressure should I aim for when setting a pressure reducing valve?

Assuming metal pipe, I'd set it to about 60, because that's a good compromise between too-high pressure and disappointingly little pressure. That's what most well pumps I've seen are set for, and significantly less than most municipal water systems (I've seen one city water system that delivered 125psi to the house). Much lower than 60psi and you'll be frustrated by the slow flow.

With resilient (not PVC/CPVC) plastic pipe, I'd go a little lower than that because unlike metal pipe, which has very strong, secure connections, plastic pipe has only clamp-over-plastic-over-barb connections, which can fail more easily than metal pipe. With PVC/CPVC, I'd go even lower because it gets brittle with age.


Tile making clicking noise when stepped on and grout flaking away

I have made successful "temporary kludge fixes" of problematic loose tiles by removing them, cleaning, and installing them with polyurethane construction adhesive. Some have lasted for years. It's a kludge, but it may work without getting into complete redo if you'd rather not do that now.

Keep the adhesive underneath and regrout around them.


Apartment security system service light is on

I'm guessing there's a worn out battery in the panel or one of the sensors and that's causing it to act up.

You have a couple of options:

Call a local home security company and have them either fix the unit, replace it, or deactivate it.  They might do it for free if you sign a service contract.
Deactivate the panel yourself.  Remove the panel from the wall, disconnect the power cord (and a phone cord if there is one), then open the panel and disconnect the internal battery.  (To disconnect the power cord, you might have to open up the panel or unplug a mysterious looking plug from a nearby outlet.)


Multiple Toilets Bubble when shower turned on

This is a classic symptom of a restriction/blockage of the main sewer line downstream of the toilets. No way to know for sure without scoping with a camera and/or running a mainline sewer cable.

You say

  We are in a HOA that maintains the water service (sewer)

It is the HOA's responsibility to clear this up. If you don't feel comfortable reporting it because you are subletting, have the leaseholder report it. How will you feel reporting it if there is a backup which floods the entire unit?


My guess is that pin shot out of the pressure relief valve.  If you look at the parts in your repair ticket it should be listed.


Drywall skim coat has bubbles. How to fix?

Could be that your mud wasn't mixed well and had settled a bit, leaving excess water on top. A firmer application or a more thorough mix might've helped prevent bubbles.

At any rate, just skim it again, and press firmly using the edge of the blade. If you do it right it won't even need sanding (or maybe just a wipe).


With only 1 light having a problem it is not the switch. You changed the lamps. Since it still has a problem the ballast in that fixture is failing. This is very common with electronic ballasts. When the lamps get old they stress the electronics. The lamps need to be changed as soon as they start flickering especially with black at the ends of the tubes. You will need to replace the ballast or the fixture. Some times cheaper to replace the fixture, or buy a cheap fixture of the same size and swap the ballast if it is an expensive fixture.


Stick a slotted screwdriver into the square hole and turn it counterclockwise...


How can I rearrange this plumbing to drain correctly?

I'd say the standpipe is a bit short, though I think 24" is minimum code. If the p-trap is clear, then possible issues:

there's a clog further downstream
the cat toilet is simply expelling too much water too fast
the vent stack is plugged

It's not a great fix, but one potential solution is to install a wash basin and connect that to the p-trap instead. Then have the cat toilet dump into the sink. That way the wash basin can completely fill and slowly drain.


You definitely have a problem, either a hot-chassis fault in the equipment (which would have been suppressed by a proper ground) or a loose neutral wire (which will cause the neutral to float).   I don't know how things work in Europe, but in the US, laundry equipment is allowed to use neutral as ground, bonding neutral to chassis, when hooking a new washer to old wiring.  Every few years, someone dies from a lost neutral which causes the chassis to energize at 120V. (Our neutral is pegged at the midpoint in the 240V spread, 120V on each leg).

You can dismiss capactive coupling by placing a small lamp (e.g. incandescent night light) across the points being tested.  (That is to say, in parallel with the meter).  It will sink capacitive/inductive float.   However if the lamp actually lights, you know you've got a serious problem.  In any case, capacitive coupling would not develop over such a short wire run, and cannot spark continuously like that.

I honestly doubt you would feel capacitively coupled current.  If you got "kissed", it is probably a lethal current, and you were saved by the impedance of your shoes, floor etc.  You can't count on that, and the threat should be treated as safety-critical.  Immediately unhook the machine, validate the cord/plug connection, and if that's good and the machine still fails, bin it!

Honestly, the usual reason people don't modernize their laundey wiring is difficulty of long wire runs through walls etc.  But if the service panel is right there, it's time to wire a proper, modern grounded receptacle to code, and reconfigure the appliance's wiring to use ground properly.   My guess is, you do that, your problem will go away, or at least resolve itself definitively with a breaker trip.


Can I wire a Bathroom Fan to two Switches in Parallel?

There's nothing electrically wrong with this, as long as no other part of the electrical code in your region is violated.  For example you can't over-stuff the junction box.  And your relay has to be rated for, and not get too hot, if used 24/7.

You can also do this with off the shelf home control components.

Note your ground needs to connect to the box frame and probably the timer frame, in accordance with normal electrical installation procedures.  The relay is is not touchable by humans and need not be grounded.


Your cheapest option besides a new fridge might be a UPS for the TV.

Make sure you get at least a line interactive type. The offline / standby versions will just pass the dropout spike through to the TV. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply#Line-interactive

My neighborhood power had some lines rubbing together when it was windy. The power would drop just for an instant but long enough to reset my TiVo causing a 5 minute dropout in any program I was recording. I got a UPS for it and solved the problem until the power company fixed the lines.

Electronics are sensitive to even the shortest drop in power. A UPS could smooth out the spikes and let your TV ride through the dropouts.
Good luck!


Human-powered lawnmower with horizontal blade?

Driven by wheels - No. People powered horizontal blade for taller plants, Yes indeed.

Ignoring the request for wheels, what you want is a scythe.

Having used both, I'm fond of the "European" pattern (nearly straight-snath) type rather than the heavy, very curvy "American" pattern

Owning both, I find my scythe a heck of a lot nicer to use than my big gas string trimmer. I can cut at a similar rate of speed, in quiet, and not end up covered in green goo from head to toe. It's rather like a relaxing martial art or dance.

You will need more than just a scythe, to use a scythe effectively you also need a kit to peen (hammer-shape) the blade and a stone to sharpen it - a scythe does not work well at all when dull, but it's no more hassle really than keeping string trimmer string loaded and feeding correctly.


You have not provided enough information to get a detailed look but we can play with some estimates. I am using watts for power consumption, which we will use to calculate amps at the end:

Some of the items we can guess pretty well:

10 laptops (80 watts each)       800 watts
1 external monitor               100 watts
9kBTU air conditioner            1000 watts
13kBTU air conditioner           1400 watts
2 fans (50 watts each)           100 watts
1 mini fridge                    400 watts
internet router                  20 watts

That adds up to 3820 watts, or around 16 amps @ 240V.

The other items are harder to know. Lighting depends HUGELY on the amount of space you're trying to light and the type of bulbs. A small office lit with LEDs may use only 100 watts, but a large space using old-fashioned incandescent bulbs will use much much more.

Also, I have no idea what an air cooler is so it's hard to get a value for that.

And obviously your "misc" category could include anything...

But I would say as a rough cut that 25 amps is probably enough, assuming you don't blow your power budget on lighting.


How do I find the valves on a toilet with hidden pipes?

I believe that your statement "the toilet is also supposed to apparently have a shut off valve" refers to rough plumbing and NOT the toilet. I am not aware of any toilet with a shut-off valve inside the toilet. If you don't have an external shut-off valve close to the external supply hose/pipe that connects to the toilet tank, you may not have a valve. In this case, the only way to turn off the water supply for the toilet is to find another valve on this system- most likely the whole-house valve, like keshlam suggested. It is unlikely that the shut-off valve is in the wall.

This image is a good example of a toilet shut-off- valve:


Does a non-functional whole-house humidifier affect air quality in my home?

If you've disconnected or turned off the water there should be no ill effects from an air quality standpoint.

One consideration is slightly reduced efficiency from obstruction of airflow. I don't recall how those things interfere with the duct, but if they protrude they could introduce very slight resistance to flow with no benefit.


What are some recommended cordless trimmers/weed-eaters?

I own this cordless string trimmer: Black and Decker NST2018 ($100)

It comes with two batteries, so if the first one goes dead, you can pop in the second one and keep going.  (Always keep the spare one in the charger!)

I am happy with its performance.  My lot is 0.35 acres.  I use it to trim along my driveway, sidewalk, swing set, and a few flower beds.  I don't have a fence around my lot, or anything that requires extended use.  My usual trimming routine takes ~30 minutes, not counting cleanup.  I can usually finish the trimming in a single battery charge.  If I have neglected the yard for a while, it might take 1.5 battery charges to do everything.

It has an auto-string feed, which hasn't failed me yet.

You can rotate the trimmer 90 degrees to do edging work.  I do this along the edge of my sidewalk and driveway.  Makes a really "sharp" line, which looks nice.

It is pretty convenient to use.  No cords to drag around the yard, no engine to service.

However the battery does have its limits.  It starts out with decent power, but as the battery starts to wear down in the last few minutes, the motor RPMs will decrease.  It will still trim, just not as well.  If I had a larger lot, or a fence, or more things to trim around (garden, lots of landscaping features, etc), I would probably need something more powerful.  If your trimming routine is similar to mine, it should be OK for you.

My string trimmer is part of a larger Black and Decker 18V Yard System.  I also own the hedge trimmer and leaf blower from the set.  Since the batteries are interchangeable, I have plenty of spares and chargers.  Do you need other yard power tools?  If so, consider getting a set with interchangeable batteries.

When I got my yard tools, the Lithium Battery stuff was still pretty new, and no one was offering an interchangeable set.  Now there are at least a few on the market, so you may want to consider them over what I have.  Have never used one though, so I can't make a specific recommendation.


What can be done about a vanity top that doesn't sit tight to cabinet base?

In my experience the normal, common way to attach such a top also fills any gaps, since it's good old silicone caulking - White or brown would seem like a good choice here. You can also attach by other means if you like and then caulk to seal and conceal. And you certainly should shim (or sand/grind the high spots on the base) to get it level. If the gap is larger than it seems in the pictures, use backer rod and caulking.


How do I tell if a window I have is tempered glass? (I need to cut a hole)

Since you clearly are  not interested in advise on how to accomplish your task and you only want to know if your glass door is tempered or not AND since we can not answer this question for you then here is a test you can perform.

Step 1, - Cut a hole in the glass of your door.

Step 2, - After the glass breaks, look at the size of the pieces. If it shatters into a million little pieces it is tempered. If it breaks into larger jagged pieces and shards it is not tempered.

You can avoid steps 1 and 2 if you like and proceed directly to step 3 but this will result in you not knowing if your glass is tempered or not

Step 3, - Buy a new door with a half-length window and cut a hole in the non window section.

(This test is for entertainment proposes only, mostly mine although I am sure those who have been tersely rebuked by you for offering advice will probably get a kick out it. IF you do perform this test then I am not responsible for you breaking your glass, cutting yourself or feeling embarrassed for not taking advice offered.)


Are top and bottom plates required for a furring strip wall?

Put the furring strips on the top and bottom so you have something to nail the drywall to otherwise it is going to warp. It cannot span 4 feet with no support.


Can I caulk a hose connection for a pool vacuum pump?

Caulking is designed to keep water out of cracks.  It remains relatively soft and pliable even after it sets up so that vibrations do not cause it to crack. One thing it does not have is great adhesion properties. If you've ever started peeling it you will know what I mean - it pulls off relatively easily.  Because of this, I doubt it will hold up to water pressure in a pipe.

The connection type will determine how you should connect this.  If it is a push-on barbed connection then you can use a pipe clamp around the connection to tighten it up.

If it is a threaded connection then you can use teflon tape or pipe dope.  If it is a glued connection then likely you did not glue it correctly and you will need to re-do it.


Does RTD in plywood mean "Rated" or "Resistance Temperature Detectors"?

The “RTD” in RTD plywood stands for Resistance Temperature Detector.

You have your normal CDX plywood for exterior sheathing.    This plywood is made to function better outdoors - deals with temp changes and moisture better than other forms of plywood.   The main difference between this and your normal plywood is that you will have less delamination.

Now RTD takes the CDX a step further and has controls for the amount of glue used, types of glue, and most importantly making sure the bonding temperature is highly accurate for each layer of veneer.

This will result in less delamination for CDX and makes it superior for outdoor use.

The grading difference between the two most common types of plywood can be summed up in that CDX is Exposure 1 rated (which means that water hitting it won't hurt it) and RDT is purely Exterior rated (yes I know CDX is still used as exterior sheathing in some places).   Being exterior rated means it will withstand constant exposure to temp changes and moisture.

Depending on the price difference we may buy CDX for subfloors but RDT is used for everything on exterior, including walls and roof.


How to install deadbolt into a thin door?

To my knowledge, you won't find any modern in-door deadbolts that can accommodate such a thin door.  Even if you padded the width of your door around the installation point to reach the minimum needed, drilling the hole for the deadbolt will essentially remove a notch from your original door (deadbolts are commonly 1" thick).  Your spacers will have to go all the way to the edge of the door to conceal the deadbolt.

A simpler solution would be to use a surface-mount deadbolt, which requires only that you drill a hole for the rim cylinder.  You may have to add a spacer around the rim cylinder to get a flush fit, but it won't end up being the only thing concealing the lock mechanism from tampering.  That link shows several types, including jimmy proof deadbolts and night latches.


That's probably just several layers of paint or paint plus a specialty undercoating for trim.

Chip it off, ensure there's no mold, remove any rot using a wood chisel, patch with a good quality wood filler, sand to 100grit or better, seal with a good primer/sealer, and repaint. If you find mold it's probably easier to just replace the sill, bleach and most mold killing products will not work on wood (including mold killing primer)


Why do you tape the wire nuts?
I can't speak for you... but generally... The usual reason people tape wire nuts is because, in their experience, the splice falls apart if they don't.  Well, if they fall apart that easily, it is a defective connection that is prone to arc faults.  Arc faults make a LOT of heat and will do just that.
The other thing about taping wire nuts is, they preclude doing a pull test.  You can't do a proper pull test on a taped nut.
A pull test is, hold the nut very firmly, then pull on the wire so hard that the nut slips out of your fingers.   I'm talking really hard.  Do that for each wire.
Tightening "really hard" is good, but not conclusive.
The problem is that certain craft errors assembling the wires can cause the connection to fail even though you tightened really hard.  E.G. the wires are not even (staggered) when inserting them.  Stripping too little will also do it.
Here's how you can "post-mortem" whether that was the problem.  Go back to all your other wire nut splices that you've ever done, and give them the full "pull test".  From that, you will have a sampling of how good your wire-nut splices are.  If you have any fail, that suggests technique may be the root of your problem.
Abandoning wire-nuts for other splice techniques is like learning how to ride a bike, and quitting the first time you fall off.  You can't learn until you test and pay attention to the feedback the test gives you.


Drilled too deep into a thin wall, how can I fix that?

Cut away any burs or rough edges around the unwanted hole. clean out any dust or loose particles.
fill with filler to a level below the surface of the wall (ie. indented) allow the filler to set hard.
Fill again below the surface of the wall, allow the filler to set hard.
fill again level with the surface allow the filler to set hard.
fill again slightly proud, allow to set hard,  sand until flat.
paint to match, 3 coats.


What could be causing a steady tapping noise in a tankless water heater?

An experienced plumber explained that the tapping noise could be gas trapped under sediment at the bottom of the tank. As the gas rises the bubble "explodes", creating a tapping noise. Draining the tank could remove some of the sediment, but the best thing is to call a professional for help.


Why does one switch only work when another is on?

If your original wiring schematic is correct black and white on the switch this is a switch loop, or switch leg!
the power goes to the fixture. Then the hot comes back to the switch on the white it is not a neutral.
at this point do not connect all whites together as someone said. The white “always hot” should be marked as a hot the black complete’s the circuit to the outside light. The switch turns on and off this connection!
New wiring would need to be run the new light. You cannot tap a switch leg to provide power for another device!
Be careful accepting assistance on the internet because there are a lot of people that don’t have a clue I hope you have not damaged things wiring etc.
This is a prime example of internet only electricians in a circle !


Suspending many lightweight acoustic panels from a plaster ceiling

A couple ideas...

Go with your magnet idea, using either the moly buttons or magnetic sheet bonded to the back.
Use simple silver screws in the ceiling. Almost any ferrous screw will work, and you don't need toggle bolts. Either you'll hit lath, the plaster itself will hold, or you'll add a slim plastic plug anchor for troublesome cases.
Insertion depth gives you leveling adjustment. I don't think swivel adjustment is needed due to the very shallow angles.

Otherwise, you could use leveling feet...

Commonly available furniture feet with ball sockets give you angle adjustment.
Depth of insertion gives you level adjustment.
You'd need to use plastic inserts to accommodate the machine threads for some holes. Those in wood probably wouldn't need anchors.
Therefore, you'll want the smallest diameter shafts you can find.
I'm not sure how you'd attach the panels to these. Maybe magnets. Maybe double-stick foam tape.

However...
I really think that some small foam blocks and panel adhesive are what I'd do...

Cut 1" or 1-1/2" thick sheets into hexagons somewhat smaller than your panels. I think 2" is too much, personally--I'd want them a bit closer to the ceiling and I'd want the mounting hardware totally hidden.
Bond them with panel adhesive, which has quick grab. Use the press-remove-press technique for instant hold.
While things are soft, make leveling adjustments. You should be able to stretch the adhesive for some time after mounting.


Is this the correct wiring for Honeywell humidifier?

I just found my answer.  I've been searching for documentation for the humidifier on how to connect it to the furnace.  This morning, I decided to look for documentation for the furnace to see if it mentioned anything about attaching humidifiers.  I looked up the model number and found the installation instructions online.  In the furnace installation instructions it states:

Humidifier (HUM)
Connect an accessory 24 VAC, 0.5 amp. maximum humidifier (if used) to the 1/4--in male quick--connect HUM terminal and COM--24V screw terminal on the control board thermostat strip. The HUM terminal is energized
when gas valve relay (GVR) is energized. (See Fig. 24.)"

So, there it is. Just had to look for the correct documentation.
Additional Info:
Make/Model of furnace: Bryant / 310AAV042090
Link to Installation Instructions: https://www.carrierenterprise.com/bryant-legacy-80-afue-90-000-btuh-multipoise-gas-furnace-310aav042090#tab-documents


Why does the blower in the attic vibrate during heating when it is really cold?

Have you tried placing a clean fresh filter? Probably, but I have to ask. The real problem is the blower isn't well balanced and other issues exacerbate it. I've not heard of anyone balancing blowers, but I don't know everything.

Another possible issue is the blower anchorage is loose. Some are mounted through resilient mounts. The rubber may have perished, fresh mounts could help solve the problem.

An under sized duct system could be a contributing factor, addressing that would be quite expensive. Be sure all your registers are fully open. There may also be balancing dampers in the ducts, you shouldn't mess with those unless they look almost fully shut. Or it could be the blower is over sized and you do not need that much volume.

Sometimes the speed can be adjusted. If it's truly over sized, you may get by with only medium speed. Depending on your system, an inappropriately low fan speed can be dangerous. Be sure a qualified technician is making the decision to lower the speed.


how do I attach a light object, a cup hook, flat washer or hex nut, to a steel lintel?

Depending how light your object is, a rare earth magnet will do the job nicely for some values of "light" and the particular magnet. Small ones are pretty affordable, hefty ones get expensive.


What could be causing a urine smell in our bathrooms?

Being a landlord I have tenants that just don't like to clean/scrub toilets weekly... try once or twice a year...  however they do sometimes call up and say my toilet smells when I flush it.  Every single time I have had this the solution has been the same with tenants... clean it with toilet bowl cleaner including under the RIM and clean it about 5 or 6 times as so much stuff is stuck everywhere... even change cleansers every other week.. but not in the same day (don't mix chemicals)...

Another possibility is the kid peed on the walls.. wash them.

Another possibility is ... are there warm air floor ducts near the toilet... maybe the kid pees in them for fun??? lift the covers and have a look... I did find one grill that was covered in pee spray... in a guest bathroom... once upon a time.

Another possibility there is a bad seal or no seal under the toilet... there is supposed to be a foam or wax ring under the toilet that keeps the air and water in the sewer system separate from the air and water in your house.  I have had one instance in 20 years of a urine smell that happens every time you flush that cleansers did not solve... it turned out be a foam ring that was not wide enough to fill the gap between the floor and the bottom of the toilet and every time you flush - air from the sewer passes by after the water has passed by.  Strangely there never were any water leaks that anyone ever noticed.

THe only way to check this is to remove the toilet by unscrewing the floor bolts, lifting and looking to see what is underneath... before you do this you might want to buy 3 regular wax rings and 3 extra thick wax rings... so you can choose which you want after you lift...  if the rings are foam you might notice how one end might be squished and the other end appears full height... the full height is your clue that air might be getting through...   Personally I don't care for the foam rings (hardware stores charge more for these than wax.. but it is harder to determine if you have a good fit.. with wax... it all just squishes out if it's too much and you get a good seal.

The last and least likely idea is that there is an issue with the vent stack for each toilet.  Don't know the reputation or experience of your builder or the care with which city inspectors review builder work before signing off... but... you might want to check if there is a clear path from the stack inside the wall behind the toilet to the roof.  Start with a quick look at each roof vent (the little chimney sticking out through the shingles) and see if you can see down it.. or is it plugged with a bird nest or some dead critter?


How can I get bulk riser cable back into the box?

Don't

Just coil it up and tape it to the side of the box. Then put the box away, or sell it, depending if you have any future need for cable. The coiling interior to the box to make them work is more complex than it appears on casual inspection, and getting the box tangled so it won't "just pull out" is far worse than having some coiled cable on the outside. How do I know? 300 feet of miserably tangled cable in a box that I had to fight with until I used it up, got a new box, and NEVER tried that foolishness again. Network wiring is part of what I do for a living.


Bolt hole reinforcement? For barrel bolts

I would buy a bolt that includes the part you seek

OK, it might not be exactly what you thought you needed, but it is what everyone else uses to securely locate the bolt end in the frame.

If you have an electric hand drill you can easily make one of these yourself if necessary.


Asbestos fragments and hepa filter shop vac

It is impossible to quantify the risk of disease from a single exposure but it is generally considered an issue for those who have had regular or repeated occupational exposure to asbestos over years.

You won't know for sure for a couple of decades but I wouldn't worry. Live your life and know that using wet handling methods significantly decreased whatever risk there was.


How can I locate the water main entry point to my house?

Is there a water shut off at the street? Should be a small manhole, maybe 6" wide. You should be able to follow that in a straight line to your house. From that point, inside or outside of your house, you should be able to find a copper pipe and a ball valve. Maybe the copper surfaces above the slab for an indoor shutoff, and you could attach the filter there.


Is it safe to shut off cold water entering water heater?

If you have no separate shut off valve you should wait till the local water authority can come and temporarily shut off the water at the meter (which is presumably near the street).

I see no problem with shutting off the water supply to the water heater as a short term measure to curb the water waste from the leaking faucet in the shower. It would be a good idea to turn off the water heater during the time that the water supply is turned off.

After you turn the water supply back on the only issue you will have with the water heater is that some air could have fed back into the tank. All you have to do is to open the hot water valves in several of your sinks and let them run for a short while until the water runs clear without any bubbles or spitting coming out of the faucets.


What kind of portable electric heater should I use in my kitchen?

The most important issue in a portable heater, even before the issue of heating is safety. Dangers involve tipping, brushing a hot surface, things falling into, in or on it.

This risk is even more pronounced in a kitchen which is a busy place (unlike a quite reading room). People move about, often quickly and carry (and drop) things.

While your particular room setup may allow any of the above types to work, I might be inclined to get an oil filled because they have little risk of things being harmed by brief contact, and seem fairly safe if tipped (although I think, in the US, all modern types require auto cutoffs if tipped).


Why do only some DSL ports work for internet in my house?

Have you tested that the problematic jacks are actually wired to your house's phone system? Just take a land phone and plug it in - do you get dial tone?

If you're not getting a dial tone, these jacks are disconnected. Perhaps they were wired to a second line that is no longer active, or simply cut during some other project. To fix that, you'd need to reattach them, tracing the cables and re-connecting them to your main phone service lines.

If the jacks work for phone but not DSL, there may be a DSL filter installed between your main phone line and those jacks. These can be wired inline somewhere, or even built into the phone jacks themselves. Check the jacks first - do they have DSL-related labels? Can you remove the cover and look inside to see if a filter is there? Perhaps they are connected to another jack that has a DSL filter.

If the filter is wired in elsewhere, you would need to trace the wires from jack to your main phone service termination point to confirm.

EDIT: if you don't have active phone service, you probably won't be able to test with the phone/dial tone method. Instead, you can try a tone & probe kit or test voltage on the lines to see if they're connected to your house phone system. Although I'd still try a land-phone test as it's entirely possible you are supplied with a dial tone even if you can't make or receive calls.


Can I cut the back off a china cabinet to convert it into a bookcase?

The back of the cabinet plays a large role keeping the unit square. My suggestion is to forget about trying to re-work that cabinet. There a bunch of concerns:

Cutting off the back 4 to 5 inches would remove the rear shelf support brackets.
The internal shelves are glass and would need to be cut or replaced with other materials.
There would still need to be a back to provide for the structural integrity of the unit.
You would still have to add a means to attach the thing to the wall.

In the end the amount of messing around with it highly likely outweighs any benefit of trying to use this cabinet for another purpose. Instead invest in something that is already a wall mount shelf unit.


Really old question, but here goes.

Inside the drill, this is the gear that will make the Hammer action (an un-related example)
 As the drill turns, the ratchet action of caused from the teeth sliding against each other creates the hammer action you feel in Impact Drills.

The Switch to activate this is obviously failing in your drill.

The Complicated image below describes your problem.

The Drills drive shaft (#3) in the pic, either makes heavy contact with the ratchet (2) or not. depending on its vertical position (how left or right the shaft sits on in the casing) That position is determined by the shifter knob (point #1 /A) as you turn that knob, the plastic resses is either deep or shallow and makes the shaft either engage the impact driver or not.

There is a spring (at point B) which applies constant pressure on the shaft, making it always want to be in a certain state (either hammer or not depending on drill)

Essentially, you need to push the drive shaft (3) out of hammer drill.. check if the knob (A) is somehow broken, or if the Spring (B) has collapsed and not giving any push.

Alternatively, if you are feeling brave, you could try to remove one of the sides of the impact driver, thereby disabling the hammer action completely.


Is it OK to drill one or two 2 inch holes into a load bearing header in my basement?

While your local building codes may vary somewhat, please refer to this IBC document section on "Notching and Boring" of load bearing members:
Notching and Boring Standards
According to section R502.8.1, you can bore a hole up to 1/3 the width of the member as long as it is not closer than 2" to either edge of the member.  Also note that you cannot bore or notch engineered beams unless you have the modifications to the beam certified by a qualified and registered engineer.
I would proactively check with your local AHJ (i.e. building code compliance office) so that you are aware of any differences they may have from the IBC.  That will help you a lot when the time comes for the inspector to pay you a visit and sign off on the work.


Supply/return plenum box: OK to use top of box?

The reason there are no supply ducts running from the top of the supply air plenum is that the air from the fan in the air handler hits the top of the plenum forcing air equally to the supply runs coming off of the sides of the plenum. If you were to have a supply run coming off of the top of the plenum it would get more air because of it having the path of less resistance. Return air plenums do not matter where the duct openings are as much.


Should bypass valve on water softener be turn off every time you shut the water to the house?

My only concern would be if you are doing some work UPSTREAM from the softener that might create or dislodge some debris, then switching to bypass will prevent that from messing up the works of the softener.


Why would plastic anchors pull out of the wall?

The Hole is too big:

It could be that your pilot holes are too big.  When the screw is inserted, the anchor does not expand enough to bite into the surrounding hole.  Keep in mind that most plastic anchors are tapered, so you want them to fit tightly in the hole.  If you can push them in too easily, then the hole is too big.  Some plastic anchors have a slight lip (collar) at the end, to prevent the anchor from slipping into the wall.  When drilling the pilot hole, it must be smaller than this collar. So the anchor will not sit perfectly flush with the wall, when it's pushed into the hole.

Material is not stable enough:

Another common problem is that the material you are putting the anchor into, is not stable enough to hold the anchor in place.  This can be particularly problematic with older plaster.  You install the anchor, then when you insert the screw the expansion of the anchor crumbles the surrounding plaster.  This causes the anchor to fall out, since it's essentially being held in place by dust.

Items are too heavy:

It could be that you are hanging too much weight on the anchors.  Drywall and plaster are not designed to carry loads, so applying too much weight to a single point will cause the anchor to come loose.

Items are too thick"

You may also run into trouble if the item you are attaching to the wall is too thick. If the screw does not penetrate the anchor deep enough, the anchor will not expand enough to hold it in the hole.

Material is too hard:

You can even run into trouble if the material you are putting the anchor in is too solid. If you put the anchor in a material that is too solid (2" steel plate), when you put the screw in the anchor may actually not be able to expand.  This can cause the anchor to deform and break, and again fall out of the hole.

Wrong size screw: (Thanks Joe).

If the screw is too small, it will not expand the anchor enough to bite into the wall. If the screw is too large, it can damage the anchor and/or surrounding material causing the anchor to fail.

The screw is too long:

If there is a solid surface behind the anchor, using a screw that's too long could cause the anchor to pull out of the hole as you tighten down the screw.  You'll have to remove the screw and anchor, then drill the hole deeper to fix this.


Compressor melted hole in 5+ year old defrost drain pan, is compressor overheating a possible concern

No it is not normal, if your condensing coils are exposed clean them a high temp on the condenser can cause this by itself, if there is a fan make sure it s turning I once found a dead mouse stopping the fan from turning but it is usually dust On the coils outside the box (under the fridge for the ones that have fans). There are other things that can cause this but I would check the things you can first.


Outdoor GFCI shorted and caught fire, how to check if wiring is safe?

I would just cut the wires up to the point where you can see copper and the insulation feels ether soft or "crispy". If wires become too short, you can pigtail it to extend length. From the pictures, it looks like only the first couple of inches that got burned and breaker did it's job well.


Can I use 6/3 NM-B cable for a 120v 20 amp circuit?

Sure, you're always allowed to use oversize wire.  You are designating the circuit 20A, you could use anything 12 gauge and up.  This is absolutely fine, there is nothing wrong with this, in fact it's a good idea if it's a long run and copper is no object.

You just have to contend with physical issues: the outlet (and possibly the breaker) is not listed to accept 6 gauge wire.  Just pigtail the outlet with 12ga wire and use a connector listed to join 12ga wire to 6ga wire such as Ideal 76B (their red wire-nut).

I don't think you'll have box fill issues for one outlet, but you'll have to start thinking about that if you branch off any more wires.  Outdoor boxes are often larger than indoor ones.  If you're not using the existing box, you'll want to use at least a 2-gang box that's deep - most outdoor boxes should suffice. Thanks Speedy.


Can I remove this post on the lower floor of a two-storey home?

That's not a structural component, at least not under normal building standards.  But just to be sure, check underneath in the basement or crawlspace.  Is there a support below it?  If so, then it's carrying some load.  If not, you're good to remove it.
Check in the attic above it.  Is there anything being supported?  Chance are good that the answer is no.


Need neutral wire on "smart z-wave" wall switch - don't have one

My bet: you have two switch loops in the same box here, one old and one new
From what you've said so far, my bet is that you have not one, but two switch loops in this box.  Fortunately, while the switch loop for the old receptacle appears to be an "old style" loop with just a hot and a switched-hot, the new switch loop for the fan appears to be use the current Code configuration where neutral is brought down to the switch location alongside the hot and switched wires for precisely the reason you're asking this question.  So, I'd leave the black/white pair alone, and wire your switch as follows:

Hot/Line -- solo black wire
Switched/Load -- solo red wire
Neutral -- solo white wire
Ground -- bundle of bare wires in the back of the box

This should get the fan to work normally without disturbing the old receptacle circuit.


Is it safe to use a fan control with any ceiling fan as long as you wire it properly?

No.

There are different ways to design fan motors and speed controls.  Many of the technologies are incompatible with each other.  The industry does not want to help you match up brand X fan to brand Y control, because Brand X also sells a fan with feature Y, and they want to upsell you into that instead.

Since they don't want you doing it, they don't list their products for that use (i.e. Ask UL to test and certify it as safe).  You must install all electrical machines consistent with their listing/instructions.


What are the drawbacks of using a GFCI instead of a proper ground wire?

Correct.

GFCI is actually the ideal solution for the people problem (shocking people) and serves that purpose better than grounding.  Assuming no boneheaded bootlegging of grounds.  But GFCI (alone) does nothing for the ESD/lightning problem which can damage sensitive electronics or cause goofy problems with radio transmitters.

Current travels in loops.  Current wants to return to source.  For natural electricity like ESD and lightning, the source is ground, not neutral.

You need fair warning of the lack of equipment ground, hence the labels.  The labels also allow you to pass inspection on 3-prong outlets without a ground.


Why does my new replacement pull-out kitchen faucet sprayer leak?

I've been known to follow hand tightening instructions in spirit but ignore them in practice.  After getting it fairly tight by hand, I give it another quarter turn or so with a wrench.  Use your best judgment, the goal is to get it water tight and secure without breaking the fragile parts.

Disclaimer: I've also been known to go toilet shopping after realizing my best judgment was a bit too aggressive. :)


Usually there is just 1 small igniter the gas then jumps to the next jet of Gas until they are all lit. I have seen 2 things cause this. First the openings in the burner can get plugged not allowing enough gas flow. cleaning the burner solves this problem. Second there is usually a small screened mixing port where the gas enters into the burner that draws in air for a proper air fuel ratio. This screen gets clogged with dust, spiders, and even sometimes grease. cleaning the screen or making sure if it is just an opening that spiders have not blocked the air flow path. Both of these problems can be fixed fairly easily. The Gas pressure is very low in the burner so even a flake of rust can stop the flow or a spider web. I find this quite often when remodeling a house that has not been lived in for a few weeks or months.


Can I add another cable to this 3-gang electrical box?

What size box is it? It should either have a volume printed on it, or will be a standard size. Without knowing the box volume, we can't give you a definitive answer.

Assuming it's all 12 AWG, it's at least (12 (current carrying conductors) + 1 (grounds) + 4 (device fill)) * 2.25 = 38.25 cu. in. currently.

Adding another two conductor cable with ground would require an additional 4.5 cu. in. For a total of 42.75 cu. in., not counting any clamp fill not mentioned.

As long as the box is larger than this, you'll be okay.

Note that if you put the third device in, you'll have to add another 4.5 cu. in.

See this answer for more detail on box fill calculations.


What are these nail strips above and below windows?

It’s a structural tie for lateral forces. Those are shear walls and when you cut a window into it, you need to add a tie to “transfer” the load through the wall.


How can I stop primer from eating my roller handles?

A better roller frame may actually be the right solution. I used this roller to paint most of my house after giving up on the cheap ones. It does a pretty good job of sealing the ends so that paint doesn't get inside to the rotating components. It's also got bearings to help it roll smoothly.

Unfortunately, I've used it only with Behr interior eggshell paint, so I can't tell you how it will do with primer.

EDIT: Mike B. reports good results with primer for the same roller.


Why do I get water hammer after turning water supply back on?

It is natural to have some water hammering when you had your water turned off for a day and turn it back on.

You probably had a sink on or something so that when you turned off the water the excess pressure pushed it out somewhere - not your shower.  So your waterlines are filled up with air.  The air has to go out places and will create huge air pockets that will make noise when moved.  Turn on your water supply and turn on everything for a few minutes and it should quickly go away.


Are voltage adapters suited for long-term use?

If your appliance requires a voltage greater or lesser than you have in your household electrical system, then you must supply the required voltage. Electronic devices should have a label or embossing with their input voltage, and many like phone or laptop chargers might accept a range of 100 to 250 volts, meaning they can be safely used in both the US and the UK, for example.

I personally moved from the UK to Mexico and have rewired an extension lead so it has a North American plug and British socket outlets, so I didn't have to wire new plugs onto my Blu-Ray player and Apple TV. I don't have to worry about voltage since the supply in Mexico is within the range accepted by those devices.

If you buy a bedside lamp, you'll need to change the bulb, but the rest of the object is just some cable, a switch, and a structure. As long as you're not putting an extremely high power bulb in it that would exceed the rating of its internal cables, you've nothing to worry about, and I would simply go to Home Depot and buy a plug to wire onto it. If you're not up to that, buy a simple but robust travel adapter. This will serve for long term use.

Now you mentioned a coffee maker, my Bialetti was brought over from Italy and I rewired it with a UK plug, but according to the appliance  label it requires 220V+ so for use in Mexico I need a transformer to step the voltage up from 110V to 220V (approx., this is Mexico). You have to take into account the wattage (power rating) of the device so you get a suitable transformer.

Frequency (50Hz in the UK, 60Hz in North America) can be a consideration for some devices, as manassehkatz pointed out in a comment, and this would require additional equipment the cost of which would be prohibitive for household appliances.

My recommendation is that a 110V to 220V transformer of sufficient power rating, costing perhaps $100 or less, would be suitable for long-term use with a European appliance that requires 220V, while any device accepting 110V should be preferably be rewired to use a US plug, or, failing that, be connected to an individual non-transformer travel adapter that makes a good fit with both the device plug and the US outlet, or like I do via a foreign power strip wired to a US plug. It is even possible to purchase pre-made strips in this configuration.


Where "just" involves maintaining appropriate slope and position, yes. It appears that you have two vents joining "more than 6" above the flood rim of the highest fixture on the floor" and you have to respect that - you cannot make the two vents one (nor run them at less than 45 degrees "upwards") below that level, you have to run them as separate vents and join at or above that level. i.e. you cannot run "horizontal" under the counter.


Is there a correct orientation for hurricane clips?

It is always best to consult the manufacturer's manuals and catalogs on this. Simpson Strong-Tie is one brand that is very extensively documented. If you're talking about the diamond plate type, they belong on the outside of the building, and tie the double top plate strongly to the rafter. If you use them on the inside, they only catch the lower truss joist across the join and don't properly attach anything together.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/h.asp

Since it's under copyright, I'm not sure if they'd consider a clip to be fair use, so here's a link directly into their PDF Installation notes on installing these things for Rafter and Truss construction. Scroll up or down for other Hurricane Clip and Earthquake ties.

http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/S-INSTALL09.pdf#page=21


Specific tiling for washing machine closet?

I agree with ecnerwal rubber pads would be best. We are a diy site and here to help you.
Other things

I prefer to use a concrete backer board screwed down to the flooring to mount tile to. Never put tile directly on chip board , OSB or most underlayments. Plywood will work but the others when wet come apart as the tile can allow moisture and then it becomes a real mess.

Pick a tile you like because it can last your lifetime and I think most new to tile do better with larger sizes. I have seen many first timers try 2x2 because they are on a sheet and it usually looks diy. Larger tiles and spend the few bucks for spacers and use them.

Watch some on line videos so you understand how to “set” the tile using a notched trowel.

Starting with a small space like a laundry closet is a great way to get experience , remove existing mop or trim boards. Put your backer down and go for it, good luck!


How can I both insulate and get a latch to work on this window? Foam kerf insulation strips

Why not just add a piece of blocking behind the latch and move the latch receiving hole into the kerfed board?  You could paint the blocking black or something that matches the latch hardware.


How should I ground a GFCI to a metal box?

You should be able to find ground screws at any home improvement store. Most boxes have a tapped hole for this purpose. If yours does not, you should be able to find grounding clips at the home improvement store as well.

Keep in mind, however, that continuity does not equal an adequate ground. Just because you have continuity between two of the boxes, does not mean you have an adequate ground all the way back to the grounding electrode. For example, the boxes might have armored cable running between them. Armored cable is only rated as a grounding conductor, if there's an internal grounding strip (which is not always the case). Armored cable could/should connect the boxes in such a way, that a continuity test would pass but does not provide a proper ground.

If you don't have an adequate ground; or you're not sure if you do or not, the best bet is to not connect the grounding terminal of the GFCI to the box. You should also place the "No Equipment Ground" sticker on the receptacle, but this is often neglected in residential situations.


GFI Leviton LB115-DS Testing at outlet with GCFI Tester

If this were a old home I would say no problem if the tester on the breaker worked. But since this is a new home get the contractor to connect the grounds.
The GFCI can and will function correctly as it doesn’t use the ground at all in its circuitry. The GFCI circuits detect a difference in the current on the hot and neutral if there is an imbalance they will trip.
Your circuit tester places a resistance of ~15k from the ground to the hot causing a properly wired receptacle on a GFCI breaker to trip.
If both your’s and the inspectors testers did not work some one was lazy and did not connect the ground and that is why the GFCI test is not tripping the circuit.
It can be a simple case of a wire coming loose but make the contractor fix it it will probably be a simple fix.


So if I understood correctly the water enters between the sill and the master frame. Why not seal it with silicone and this tool (don't know the word in English)?
Use plumbing silicone or other silicone used for moist environments. Place the silicone generously and detract it with the tool shown. This should seal it thoroughly.


Wiring Help Needed to replace Ceiling Fan w/light to light only (see pictures)

I think ThreePhaseEel and A.I. Berveleri have figured this out.  That circuit was originally wired for a light only, with a 12/2 cable going up there - hot (black), neutral (white) and ground.

Somebody added the fan later on, and they cheated.  They used ground for neutral.  They used black for the fan and white for the light.

First, mark your wires. Get some electrical tape and bundle together the white now going to TO LIGHT and the black going to TO FAN. These go to the fixture. Do that as far back as you can, so they are still free.

Note the black with white stripe wire.  The wire nutted to it is supply power, or "always hot".  Mark it (solo) with electrical tape so you can find it again.

Now, think about replacing that switch. Either with a plain switch, or with a modern dimmer or smart switch that plays well with LEDs and may have a neutral.  Don't bother with CFLs, they are obsolete.

Now to put it back proper.  The fixture white and black will be hot and neutral.

The white wire (to fixture): Add it into that bundle of (white) neutrals with the red wire-nut.  It will stay there for good, no matter what switch you use.
The two remaining black wires go to the new switch.   If you're keeping the old switch, move the black wire (to fixture) from to fan and move it to light.

I won't delve further into how to install switches because it's routine from here.


Can a simmerstat switch be fixed? And how?

According to oxfordparts.com.au the part has been replaced/superceeded by TD3V-800K which I think is still available. I found a bunch of eBay listings anyways.

Also worth checking out this. If it looks the same as the switch you have it's probably the same

https://stoveconnection.com.au/shop/index.php/store/stove/controls/cooktop-controls/tl-205.html

Be aware the TD3V part might not look identical but the connections should be the same. Likely they improved the "guts" so they don't fail so soon...
Or so that they're cheaper to build.

Don't try to fix the switch, it'll never be right and you could melt stuff. Not to mention it's likely glued together.
Good luck!


Not dangerous, but you'll eventually stop shooting nails. Chances are it's just a couple of o-rings that need replacing. Look for something like a 'cylinder rebuild kit'... should be well under 20 bucks.


Multi-cutter blade blunt in 1 day. Bad blade? Bad Technique?

2 hours of intermittent cutting on one blade is pretty good.

If those blades are naff, then all of the ones I've used in the past (Bosch, Porter Cable, Dewalt, Imperial, off-brand no-name) are also naff.

The only thing I could suggest is keeping the blade clear of bitumen/ wood/ etc. Vacuuming up sawdust while you're cutting can help.

They've managed to convince us this is acceptable because these tools are so incredibly useful.


Is deckover or a simple stain more appropriate for this deck

With the weathered surface I would suggest a product like restore. I have used this on several decks with really nice results for weathered decking. This will cover the areas you use wood putty so the repairs are invisible. My last home had a large deck that I used this on with the roller they recommended and it was an excellent finish and covered 3 diferent ages and types of wood.


When connecting hot to ground, lights turn on. Open neutral?

So I solved this myself by tracing the wires.  I figured out that two circuits had shared a neutral when I found two open splices, traced them back and separated onto separate circuits.  I didn't realize it at the time. Once I traced the wires, drew out the diagram and figured out there was no neutral, I figured out where to connect the neutral back in to complete the circuit. All working now.

For posterity's sake, the original circuit diagram: