Which kind of plaster to use on concrete walls, prior to painting?

Any top coat plaster should be OK.

It might be worth priming the surface with a diluted PVA solution (5 parts water to 1 part PVA - from memory so double check) to seal it.


How to wire subpanel back to back for portable generator

The meter panel is a "rule of 6" panel. You're on the right track: interlocking that is probably impossible so re-arranging things is a good plan. The hard part is that there are so many valid ways of doing the job it may be difficult to choose.
Your proposed idea is a good one. Not having done any demand calculations, but knowing that there isn't a huge difference in cost between 100A, 150A, and 200A main-breaker panels, I'd suggest you choose a 200A main-breaker panel. Keep in mind that's only its limit -- it's perfectly fine that you might feed it from a breaker less than 200A at the meter panel. You'll need to check the label on the meter panel to find out what types and ampacities of breakers are approved for use there. Finding a branch circuit breaker larger than 100A may prove challenging (or costly).
An alternative is to move the A/C and oven breakers into the existing subpanel. It appears to be convertible to main-breaker type by removing the two hot lugs and installing a QOM2 main breaker in the space at the top. Labeling on the panel will confirm. The panel is nearly full so you'll need to remove some of the existing breakers and use tandem or quad breakers to pack it tighter. You could then add the interlock right into this panel. There are two interlock kits for Homeline panels. From one glance it looks like HOMCGK2C is the one you would need, but of course you'll need to verify. A drawback of this approach is that the entire house would effectively sit behind a 100A main. If this existing subpanel is rated for more current you could choose the 150 or 200A main breaker for it, upgrade the feeder wiring to the meter panel, and put a larger breaker in the meter panel just as in the solution you originally proposed.
Another possibility is to replace the meter panel. Get a new meter-main which does have a main disconnect breaker, supports an interlock, and has plenty of spaces available. It is perhaps daunting, but the process goes something like this:

get building permit if required in your area
ask electric utility for a temporary disconnect (my utility does this at no charge)
remove the old panel, install the new
get work inspected
ask electric utility to re-connect


Remove the crimp connector and use a wire nut to attach a new 6" piece of wire then connect to the screw terminal on your device.


How do I remove drip marks in flat paint on smooth interior walls?

If the painting was recent (within say a month or so), and is still a bit rubbery, you can do a great job using a single-edge razor blade to slice off just the offending drip.  Hold the blade almost flat to the wall so it doesn't dig in to the surrounding paint.  Then you'll just have that little circle to touch up with a dab from the corner of your brush.

This also works for other similar blemishes like roller fuzz or small chunks of latex.


I'll echo the comment and say that you should make sure you have a proper P-trap installed under the sink. This trap holds water and provides a seal against sewer gases getting up into the bathroom. Without one, gases will leak in constantly, and will be displaced by water down the drain which can force the gases up into the bathroom even if normally it's not detectable.

I'll also ask if there is a proper vent for this sink. Even with a P-trap, if there's nowhere for back-flowing gases to go, they'll bubble up past the trap.

One more thing it could be is the overflow drain. Depending on the design of sink, the overflow can hold a small amount of water at the bottom where it tees in to the main drain, which can become stagnant. Run water down the drain and you'll force some air up the overflow (to make way for the water coming down), which will have that stagnant smell. To diagnose this, plug the sink and begin filling it; you shouldn't get any musty smell at first because there's no air movement. Once the water level hits the overflow drain, you will start smelling the musty smell for a while because the water is displacing the gas, which wants to rise above the water and so will move up into the bathroom. If this is the problem, you can ameliorate it with some foaming pipe snake; pour it down the overflow drain and it will clean out any caked-on gunk which contributes to the smell, and which may be trapping the water. The real fix is to make sure there's no "damming" effect of construction defects at the bottom of the overflow drain (a lip of porcelain, issues where the overflow meets the metal drain downpipe, etc).


When equipment ground is not present, GFCI devices should test properly.

However, if equipment ground is not present, external GFCI testers there or at downline outlets  should not test successfully.  Their built-in 3-lamp tester should only display one yellow light.  If it displays two but doesn't trip the GFCI, that means a bootleg ground, which makes the GFCI's protection worthless.


Why does the hot water tank need to be drained of water in order to replace the gas valve?

The valve should have a part that inserts into the tank to measure temperature in the tank and decide when to turn on and off. When you remove that part, the water will drain out anyway. Better to control the drain especially if the water is hot.


Is the ability to save pictures worth it in an inspection camera?

Well, I don't think you will buy such thing again in the next years, so I suggest that you consider it a major purchase and plane for all reasonable usecases, not only for laying cables. You can use it later for all sorts of inspections - finding sources of noise, finding sources of leaks, finding clogs in ducts and sewers, etc.

I believe ability to take pictures can be worth it - you can post a picture here and ask if that's mold or you can send it to the utility company to convince them that it's a leak on the common property and not on yours or you can use it to post something really curious to your twitter/facebook/whatever account. You decide whether these usecases are worth considering and how often you might encounter them.

One very important thing is you have to actually test how the thing works. It may be that it saves pictures of infernal quality that can only be used as garbage.


Why is a steel security door safe if they can break the glass, slide their hand in, and unlock the door?

You could just chill out.  Putting  up bars or plastic on that door is truly ghetto.

Doors like this are not inherently unsafe at all.  Your door is appropriate for your neighborhood.  Your door would be unsafe or inappropriate for a bad neighborhood or an apartment building.  Having this glass probably does not effect your chances of burglary by .0000000001%.  Having a fake security sign in your front yard would probably be a better deterant by 1000000 times vs bars over the glass.

The fact is glass next to a door is hardly ever the easiest and most elusive way for a burglar to open a door.  If you are in a nice neighborhood breaking into a house the last thing you want to do is break glass as that screams call the cops on me.  For your door I would simply kick it in if I were not going in a window or something like that.  Even with a decent deadbolt (less than 2 inches) it would be faster to kick in the door vs break glass as I can shut door after kicking it in and it looks "normal" vs what the hell is on the other side of the glass.

The point is spend your time on something else.  You can get really good deadbolts, plastic your windows, stuff like that but that doesn't deter.  A little 6" security sign, motion activated spot lights, getting rid of bushes and limbs that hide your house, not throwing away boxes for flat screen TVs at the curb, watching who you let in your house, not leaving a spare key in your yard, and so on are far more important than your door issue.   You aren't the first person to think of this, it just isn't that important compared to everything else.


There generally is no "easy" way to remove paint from wood, but there are several ways that take some time and patience.

A safe way that involves not using chemicals like paint or lacquer thinner would be to get a fine to medium grit sandpaper and rub the surface clean of any paint dust.  I assume that you had recently painted this so the chances are exceedingly low that this is lead paint, but if you live in a country that still sells lead paint or you suspect that the paint you used contains lead, then I highly suggest not sanding this and instead using a thinner.  You don't want to be breathing in lead paint dust, especially if you have pregnant women, children or animals in the house.

It seems there is a round area that meets with the flat of the trim, and sandpaper is not going to get into this crack very easily.  I advise carefully using the sharp end of a paint scraper to gently remove any paint in any crevices that you cannot reach with sandpaper.

Just use this to get into areas that you cannot reach with the sandpaper since you don't want to risk gouging the wooden trim.  If you do cause some damage to the wooden trim then applying a simple wood filler and sanding to match the trim should easily hide any damage.  Make sure that you get a wood filler that can be painted and stained.

When you are finished you will want to remove any paint dust from the area with a wet cloth or sponge and let completely air dry.  At this point you will be able to re-stain the affected area.  Take a picture of the wood trim and visit your local hardware store, they can generally help you find a stain that will match with the existing color and finish of the existing wood trim.  Follow the directions on the can for applying the stain and you should look good as new.


How can I remove 3-way switch to leave single pole switch on the lighting circuit?

I was able to get it working with the following changes:

For the switch being replaced, connected the black wire to BK, the other black wire to RD, and the two white wires that were capped together are now connected to WH on the new switch.

For the switch being removed, left two white wires capped together and capped two black wires together.

The red wire is no longer used on either end (switch) and is now capped.


What materials do I need to fix these walls? (not even sure if it's actually drywall)

Yes that is just drywall with joint compound.

To start you should secure the corner bead (the metal strip), just a screw in the hole nearest the open corner will suffice.

If there is any more loose joint compound or paint scrape it off now.

Then you can put spread new joint compound over the holes and the corner bead. When its dry, sand. You will probably need two coats to get it smooth.

This is a very easy repair and rather cheap. You can buy one of the small buckets of joint compound such as this one. At the cheapest a plastic putty knife (lowes link) (I'd get a proper metal one. You will use it again, and it is also good for scraping).

Last thing is just to prime and paint. (the painting will be the most expensive part).


Should I proactively replace my Federal Pacific service disconnect boxes? (not a breaker panel)

No you do not need to replace them, their disconnects are fine and also their transformers are good. FPE stablock is what gave them a bad name. It would be like saying your favorite car MFG was judged by that 1 bad model (they all have them). I have several that have been in regular use for decades, so would not worry about the disconnects.


Could our new plumbing be to blame for our new downstairs toilet and upstairs spare bath being clogged?

Sounds like a clogged drain pipe or vent stack to me. Some toilet paper doesn't break down as well; such as charmin. I would switch to Scotts which breaks down rapidly.


No. While ground may be tied to the earth, it's also connected back to the source (distribution transformer).  Electricity doesn't flow from the transformer to the earth, it flows from the transformer back to the transformer.

Only connecting the grounding conductor to the earth, will not provide an effective ground-fault path.  So a ground-fault will not trip the breaker, as it should.

Without more information, it's difficult to tell exactly what's going on with your installation. My recommendation would be to contact a local licensed Electrician, unless you have the tools and knowledge to troubleshoot the problem yourself.


Skim coating over cigarette stained walls

Should we use kilz or zinnser prior to doing the skim coat Or will the
skim coat cover the stains/odor?

You want to seal the stains first and then skim.
In my experience cigarette stains will bleed through most primers and paints.
The most effective way to seal them is to use a shellac  based primer
I would give it at least two coats of the shellac primer. (Maybe three)  It is very thin but when it dries it will create a good seal.
Once your have sealed the walls you can proceed with skimming. Use a good primer on your skim coats and then paint.
AS Harper states it may be worth it to pull the old dry wall off and put up fresh. Skimming it will be as much if not more work then replacing.


How do I repair a concrete driveway that has been damaged by salt?

If it's just pits and general ugliness, you can try some concrete resurfacer.

Just make sure to wash and rinse the driveway well like the directions say.  After it cures you can coat it with a sealer, and try not to use too much salt in the future.


Non-substantial remote door locking options for indoor rooms?

If you do find a solution that works for you make 100% sure that it is possible to enter or leave the rooms even when they are locked. In the case of fire or other emergency situation the last thing you need is inability to escape or enter the room to save someone. You need to consider that the power in such situation may be off, rescue personnel will not be familiar with whatever gadgets you have rigged up and in the frenzy of the situation trying to locate remote controls may not be feasible.

It will always be best if such access capability is entirely mechanical and localized right at each door unit. No dependency on power, remote tools or non-standard operation.


Protect tile grout from wood stain when staining fireplace surround

I'm thinking removable caulk might work.  I've used it to seal windows during the winter, and it comes off pretty easy from glass and plastic, so it might work.

This would give you something a little larger to work with, as far as making sure it hits all the right spots, as well as when trying to remove it later.  Leaving a large bead would also make it easier to adhere tape to.

IDK if tape sticks to it, but it's an idea.  I also don't know how well it would come off  grout, or if it would damage it when trying to peel it off.


Closing gap around floor transition strip and door trim

The better way is to extend the door side casing trim to the floor surface. Ideally that would involve removing the old paint covered trim and replacing with a new longer piece.

The alternative, as you propose, to run the base shoe molding under a foreshortened casing is not going to look too great as there will still be an ugly gap due to the rounded top of the base shoe.

It may be a better alternative to cut the door casing up even higher and then place in a block of wood that is slightly thicker than the casing. This can act as a grounding for the casing and the adjacent base shoe can come up to it as well. The end of the base shoe molding can be mitered so that it does not have the unfinished look that the current square cut presents.

The height of this added grounding block could be coordinated with the adjacent baseboard that the base shoe molding is attached to. Additionally you could consider to add a matching grounding block to the other side of this same doorway to provide a balanced look.

The picture below gives an idea of what I am suggesting. It also shows how base shoe molding is cut back at an angle. Note that I am not suggesting that you place a "baseboard and shoe molding" in through the doorway as depicted as the bright white part of the picture.

Picture Source


How to tighten/fix ice-maker's drainage tube connector?

We know them as "John Guest" (The Brand Name) fittings and they are prone to leaking as its only an o-ring sealing the fitting to the pipe, if the pipe has a scratch on it or isn't fully inserted it can leak.

They also can be fitted with a collar clamp that holds the release mech ( the red part in this fitting) from accidentally being pushed down and releasing the pipe from the fitting.

You can also get brass fitting for use with "John Guest" pipe, you can see them at the offical website.


How can I determine the cause of a noisy spin cycle in my INDESIT washing machine?

the motor has 'carbon brushes' which are spring loaded and transfer the mains power into the center of the motor.  When they get worn the motor starts to whine.

These are inexpensive to replace.

The motor in most machines is at the bottom. Making sure the power is off - tip the machine back and keep it safely located in that position.

Crawl beneath to get to the motor which is held in with 3 bolts.

If the motor has a large canister (capacitor) wired into it then it does not have brushes - the belt is then the culprit.

If it is a 'carbon brush motor' / brush motor then unplug the cable.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brush_%28electric%29

Motor out : at each side of the motor the brushes are held in with small springy clips, these can be tricky to remove. If the dark square carbon rod part of the brushes are less than 1.5cm then they are worn and need replacing.


How do I remove this so I can change the lightbulb?

Have a go at one of those three finger lookin' things holding the glass.   Unscrew the little bolt holding it it.  Or, more likely, one of them might be spring loaded.   Take care not to drop the glass.


Water supply has air bubbles in it when the well pump runs?

My guess would be the line above the pump may be cracked on a submersible a check valve keeps the water in the tank but at the crack the water drains back and when the well kicks in water pushes the air into the tank.
A submersible will only have power and 1 line going down the well head.
Pulling a pump is not really that hard but one thing most don’t tend to do.
Before starting fill a clean trash can with water (I actually use a 55 gallon food grade barrel now but a clean trash can will work) very clean no trash bag that will block the pump from drawing the water.
I usually cut the pipe where I Can splice it if plastic if metal there is usually a union.
The Well cap may be an expanding type or just have a rubber seal usually 2 plates screwed together. Turn the power off  Pry the cap up then start pulling, there may be enough wire so it doesn’t need to be cut but if it has to be cut it’s not hard to repair. Pull the line up you may see the crack when pulling up if not I use a clean trash can described above place the pump in the can filled with water.
Cap the pipe where it was cut and turn the power on it should only take a few seconds to pressurize the line and show the leak don’t leave it on for long or the pump will overheat.
This is usually where I find the leak and quite often because a torque arrestor was not used. the pump jumps every start and eventually cracks the poly line.
If you have metal it’s time to upgrade to poly.
I don’t think it is the pressure tank because you said it was with each start cycle.


What is this black nut/gasket on my main water line?

The picture turns out to be a picture of a test cock on a backflow preventer.  The black plug is just cosmetic.  One the side there is a way to use a flathead screwdriver and turn off the test cock (in my case, it had been slightly open).


Minisplit ductless communication wire question

This is because most mini splits are meant for a global audience

One of the quirky things about mini-split air conditioners is that they are basically the air conditioner of choice if you want central air conditioning outside of North American and the existing installed base in places like Europe and Australia.  North American-style split systems simply aren't used in the rest of the world, for a variety of reasons that have largely to do with space and efficiency, and as thus, mini-split manuals are written for a global audience, not a US one, even when written in English by major global manufacturers who are used to selling to North America (such as Mitsubishi).

One artefact of this is that they often specify cables in a way that's only crudely translated to US nomenclature.  Most of the time in the rest of the world, something akin to a tray cable is used, and in tray cable nomenclature, the green wire is counted among the wires of the cable, as it may or may not be necessary as an equipment grounding conductor, depending on the application of the tray cable.  However, Exposed Rating/Joist Pull rated tray cables (designated TC-ER-JP), the only ones that can legally be used without conduit in a dwelling unit application under the NEC (as per NEC 336.10 point 9), are thin on the ground from what I can tell; many HVAC sellers will try to sell you tray cable as "mini-split cable", but it's not appropriate for the application.

So, I'd run individual 14AWG THHNs (black, black, red) up the flex whip to the disconnect box, then tie them into 14/3 W/G NM at the AC disconnect with black and a remarked white for the hot wires in the NM cable, red for the comms wire, and the ground of course tied to the disconnect's ground terminal.  Then, this 14/3 W/G NM can be run to the indoor unit, just like you would run any other mains circuit. (Of course, if you're under codes that prohibit NM, you can substitute a MC or AC cable instead, or individual 14AWG THHN wires in metal conduit for that matter.)


I've seen window frames made out of Mindi Wood. Everything I've heard is that it's similar to teak, but not as expensive.


Craters by screws where ceiling plaster has broken?

You’re quite correct, a basic filler and sanded smooth once dry will work absolutely fine. There is no underline problem, the plaster has slightly different colours because it’s probably been skimmed at sometime.  This is a very common issue with a quick fix. Good luck!


How to pass large cable bundle through drywall?

There exists a putty called "duct seal compound" which you can pack into the opening of a pass-through plate to seal the opening. I couldn't say whether it is rodent-resistant (few things are) but it may get the job done for you.


Can I put tile in my basement over Ditra and existing mastic?

Schluter may not warranty Ditra if your slab does not permit moisture and you use a modified thinset.

Laticrete Stratamat has a "mortar hydration vent" that is claimed to allow either modified or unmodified thinset.  I have found significant price breaks for Stratamat if ordered online.  Local suppliers are a bit higher, but sometimes worth spending extra for "I-gotta-have-it-now" moments.

I would do an experiment with a modified thinset and a couple of cheap tiles...  Test adhesion at 12 and 24 hrs..  Use the std. Rockford chisel-and-3-pound-maul shear test...(wear goggles).


Why does a steel door frame for drywall have a double return/backend

Stiffness is one reason, but not exactly in the way that was mentioned above. That return will prevent waviness as viewed from the room.

Also, raw edges are ugly, even if they return into the wall. They're difficult to caulk, too, as there's no real bond surface--the caulk just falls behind if there's a gap.


What is this picture of an insulation blower showing?

Google 'wet spray cellulose insulation'. You'll see videos etc where they spray messy then scrape flat. The kind folks at HD obviously had helpers scraping (and cleaning up the guy doing the application...)


Best way to mount a floating L-shaped desk to a brick wall

Reading from other comments here - 1cm round or 1cm square pipe just sticking straight out of the wall on its own will not cut the mustard. You should be thinking of some type of right angle support bracket. With a 60cm side shelf, supported along the wall on a solidly mounted strip, that right angle bracket should come out under the shelf to at least 50cm and have a vertical side against the wall as far down as feasible. I would think that the vertical span of the bracket should be at least 20cm. The length of the third side of the triangular bracket would best be if it was full length but if the vertical and horizontal sides of the bracket were really sturdy then the angled side could be shorter.

Brackets like this could be purchased ready made or fabricated out of wood or metal.

Note that with brackets like this a good share of downward applied force at the outer edge of the shelf will get translated to pull out force on the mounting strip and the upper fasteners on the bracket edge against the wall. You will have to make sure to use fasteners into the brick that can withstand this pullout force with a good margin of safety to ensure that the shelf is secure. You should definitely be thinking in terms of someone coming along and trying to sit on the edge of the desk even is that is never the intention.


You can tap this

What you want to do here is replace the existing set of 3-way splice connectors that tap the feeder for the surge protector with 4-ways, and then use the newly opened connector-ports to run a feeder up to the transfer switch.

You're fine on size

The reason why the existing feeder is 2AWG is because it's copper most likely -- 2AWG copper is good for 115A at 75°C, which is fine for a dwelling unit feeder application due to the 83% rule.  Your 1/0 aluminum wire will be fine, though -- the ampacity rating's about the same, and CuxAl rated Polaris connectors work fine for copper-to-aluminum connections when torqued to spec (AlumiConns are essentially miniature versions of them, even).

You will need a 125A subpanel for the standby loads given the style of transfer switch (DPDT safety switch) you linked -- I would recommend getting a 30 space main lug unit.  (Siemens has the advantage that the PL line of loadcenters comes with some niceties that you don't get with BR, but it seems like most of the supply houses in your area are loyal to Eaton, so a BR loadcenter is fine and dandy here.)

One caveat here

Since you got a two-pole transfer switch (instead of a three-pole), you must consult your generator manual (or generator manufacturer) for the correct procedure for pulling the neutral-to-ground bond on your generator, as your transfer equipment is set up for a non-separately-derived generator source.  Otherwise, you'll have issues (such as false GFCI trips on the generator with some generators, and energized boxes due to errant neutral current flowing on grounds) due to the duplicate neutral-to-ground bond on the generator.


setting up a secondary panel with generator (Wire Guidance needed)

GFCI is no-go with some transfer switches
There are some very terrible, very expensive transfer switches which have a row of switches, 6, 8 or 10 of them, and individual fuses or mini-breakers near each one.  Those allow you to switch individual circuits from utility to gen (a "cute" feature but not worth paying $400 for, considering how junky the rest of the unit is).  The 1970s called, and wants that design back.  Those will not play at all with GFCI anything, and I can't believe it's legal to sell today.
However, another type of transfer switch looks exactly like a "subpanel".  We typically advise you to build this out of parts, e.g. a 30-space Siemens/Murray main-lug panel e.g. SN3048L1125, their simple ECSBPK01 interlock (which is $25), and two common breakers.  That will allow you to switch 26 circuits between utility and generator. All those circuits will be able to use GFCI/AFCI.  If you want more circuits just use a bigger panel.
You mentioned a Reliance TRC1006CP9 in comments; that is the second kind and that will work with GFCI/AFCI.  That particular model appears to be disappearing and I see some very good prices on close-outs.
Don't ever buy gear "for the electrician to use"
As far as the cable to buy, I get you are trying to "save money" by making the electrician use your stuff that you bought at Home Depot, which you believe is cheaper. However electricians do not like that, for very good reason: Usually, people buy the wrong stuff.   SOOW cable is completely the wrong stuff for an in-wall installation, and if it was custom cut, into the trash it goes.  Well, it can be turned into a nice generator extension cord.
SOOW is cordage which is flexible cords use for temporary connections. You know what cords are, you deal with cords every day.  Cordage is only allowed for those applications, and cannot be attached or built permanently into a building.
In-building wiring is completely different,  It is illegal to use it in the manner you would use cordage.  It is only for attaching or building into a building.  Which particular type depends on where your cable is going and how you plan to upgrade it in the future.
Don't confuse "gold-plated" with "copper".
One of the big mistakes here is to get Midas Fever and think that somehow copper is a better conductor than aluminum.  Aluminum had some problems in a 1960s experiment putting them in small branch circuits... but for a big feeder in the 60A realm, it's the right stuff. Copper is just throwing money into a hole.
What's worse is when I see people spend lavishly on copper feeder, then chintz out on something that really matters, like panel size or use of conduit where it would help.

Cable has the advantage that it can run without conduit.  It needs physical protection in certain areas where it'd be vulnerable to damage, e.g. the exterior of buildings, underground run stub-ups, or along garage walls.
Conduit is a good way to run wires. You use individual wires called THWN or XHHW, and use exactly the wires you need.  #6 or smaller neutral wires must be white or gray.  A ground wire is needed if the conduit is not metal.
However cable inside conduit is very awkward. That combination was never meant to work, and since the cable tends to be flat-shaped (especially UF), it takes absolutely huge conduit.  #6/3 UF cable is 1.35" wide and requires 2" conduit (clearances would be too close for 1-1/2" conduit).
You can switch methods halfway down a run, but if there's a cable to wires (THWN/XHHW) transition, that must be in a junction box.

Conduit + THHN/XHHW wires allows higher ampacity from the same size of wire.  For instance your goal of honest 60A requires:

Conduit: #4 Al (rated for 65A) or #6 Cu (same)
Cable: #2 Al (rated for 75A)  #4 Cu (rated for 70A)

The disadvantage goes away at 100A. If your target was 100A you'd use #1 Al or #3 Cu in either cable or conduit.  Given that your plan was #4 Cu anyway, it's silly not to take the "mini-bump" to #3 and get access to a full 100A.  Except do it in aluminum with #1.
#3 Cu barely fits in 1" conduit.  #1 Al barely fits in 1-1/4" conduit.  If the idea of taking the mini-bump to 100A seems stupid to you, 1" conduit will do fine, or even 3/4" if you stay at #6 Cu.

Cheap: Cable the whole way, selecting cable appropriate for indoor/outdoorness.
Plastic-plated: 1" PVC Conduit the entire length and THHN or XHHW wires inside.
Silver-plated:  1-1/4" EMT conduit the entire length, going to PVC underground as EMT isn't allowed there.
Gold-plated: 1-1/4" Rigid conduit the entire length.


Small amount of water in chimney after rain

As long as your chimney cap (I assume that's what you describe as a 'cowl'?) is in place, you are probably fine.

Although chimney caps are designed to keep out rain and critters, they can't fight the occasional sideways rain drop. The little amount of water that enters the chimney from those atmospheric anomalies won't hurt a thing. Short of completely blocking off the chimney with a weathertight cap (not possible if you use it with gas appliances, as you stated), just keep truckin.


How do I repair drywall around a bathtub?

I don't have experience with it, but there are fiberglass-covered drywall products available. If that is not available, I would recommend using 1/2" James Hardie Tile Backer Board. The smooth side is smooth enough to be painted. As far as taping, I would use a fiber glass mesh tape and a joint compound mix like Sheetrock 90, which hardens better than pre-mix joint compound.

But to really fix the problem permanently, I would pull cut away the bottom 18" of drywall all the way around the tub, replace it with Hardie Tile Backer Board, cover it with Schuter KERDI and finish with tile. Google or Bing to get more information about those products and how to use them.

Tip I picked up from Mike Holmes: don't run the tile backer board over the tub flange that goes up the studs. Stop the tile backer board above the flange, fill with thinset and cover with KERDI. Use KERDI-FIX to adhere an 1/8" fold of the KERDI to the tub deck.

This all assumes this is a tub only with no shower.


How to organize multiple electrical wires going into an ultra thin recessed light?

Use an old work box to house the splices

There's a simple way out of this, and that's to use an old work box mounted into the ceiling drywall to house the electrical splices.  A 3 gang switch box will do the trick, or you can use a 4 11/16" square box that's 1.5" or deeper if you can get an old work mountable version of that.  (Really, anything that supplies more than 29.5 in3 of space will do.)


Most likely the signal strength is not punching through your closed garage door, possibly because your new security system is causing some interference. That's not an uncommon issue. Here is a link to a video on how to increase the signal reception capability on your opener, it's not difficult at all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smwjAOvVACY


Installing ceramic tile on top of wooden bathroom floor

I agree with OSB and leveling compound. I know it would be more work but I would see if the OSB is a underlayment and possibly only 3/8" thick, chip up a small hole where it would need to be patched if you use this surface. If a thin underlayment pull it up and replace with cement board. Cement board will not swell and fall apart if moisture gets under the tile like OSB will. Another advantage to cement board is it will be a better base for the tile making the tile stronger than on wood. I have dropped small tools and broken tiles in the past, but have found impacts on tile set on cement board with thinset resists breaking much better.
If you want to stay with the current base verify the "leveling compound is secure not loose and breaking up. Clean out all the loose stuff and clean up as much of the dust as possible. Once clean use some leveling compound mortar to repair the surface so it is smooth. Once the floor repair is dry it would be time to tile.


Can I use a wire rope to support strings of lights?

Practical Advice

Let's consider the solution to a more difficult application: hanging a fabric shade sail. The static load is higher due to the weight of the fabric and the wind load is higher due to the sail effect. Furthermore, when a company publishes instructions for hanging this shade they have a strong interest in making sure it doesn't rip off your house. So if you follow their advice for you application you have applied a strong margin of safety.

For a 12' sail the linked instructions specify a 1/8" thick galvanized steel 4" x 4" post mounted 10 degrees from vertical or a 5" x 5" timber post mounted 20 degrees from vertical. Either post to be mounted in a concrete footing measuring 15.5" square and 31" deep. If you anchor the primary wire into the ground you could further stiffen this setup.

For the house anchors they recommend steel supports between the fascia and the rafter/truss. I suspect this is overkill for the four secondary anchors but may be advised for the primary wire if you want it to be rather taut. As @isherwood suggested mock it up and tug hard on the primary wire to get a sense of the forces involved.

Way more then you want or need to consider

Force on a deflected wire

First consider Why Can't a Rope be Pulled Completely Straight. Each wire end will exert a transverse force F_tw = mg / (2 sin θ) where m is a single mass at the center of the wire, g is the acceleration due to gravity (9.8 m/s/s), and θ is the angle of deflection. If you are willing to accept a 12" deflection of the primary wire then F_tw ~ 50 N/kg * m = 16.7 ft * m.

For m on the primary wire use the total mass of the supported wires and lights as well as the primary wire itself.

Dynamic loads

Besides the static load of the wires and lights you have to consider transverse wind and ice loads. Utility companies do this when sizing poles (pdf). In the coldest climates they plan for 4 lbs/sq ft wind load on a wire radius that has increased by 0.5" due to sleet and ice accumulation. In warmer climates there's no increase to the wire radius but the wind load planned is 9 lbs/sq ft.

When doing these calculations it is customary to ignore the bracing effect of the other wires. So when computing the wind load on the primary wire we would ignore the fact that the light wires will resist the wind blowing away from the house.

For your configuration I would consider two orthogonal loads. The primary support wire can push right-to-left. The other wires can pull in-and-out of your figure. In each case add up the sq ft of wire and lights and multiply to calculate a wind load. Your support beam will need to support this load at the anchor point near it's top. Your other anchor points will need to support some fraction of these loads as well.

Force on a cantilevered beam

You need a beam that can support the resulting transverse wire and transverse wind load. It also needs to support it's own vertical weight but this is not normally an issue. Your question doesn't specify the height but the deflection of the pole grows linearly with the height of the mount point. Assuming the pole can handle the loads it must be securely anchored into the ground like a fence post.

Building anchors

The wires need to be anchored to the building. For highest strength you should anchor to the fascia (not the soffit) at a point close to the rafters. Don't forget that these anchor points have to carry the very same loads as the post. There are four secondary anchor points splitting the load from the lights and one primary anchor point which carries the same load as the post.

Safety Factors

When planning an installation it's important to apply safety factors. Overload capacity factors for utility poles are included in the link above and they range from 1.0 to 2.5. The strength of the pole or anchor points are also derated by a factor as low as 0.65. These are values applied by knowledgeable engineers. For a DIY project I would replace brains with brawn and build it at least twice as strong.


Should I ask if wall was inspected for moisture?

I agree, checking for the cause of the problem, including moisture in the wall, seems logical. In fact, without checking it could lead to dryrot or mold.

I think I’d email them again and ask if they found dryrot or mold and let them know that if you don’t hear back this time, you’ll take it to the HOA. No response, then I’d ask the HOA.


Installing tiles on bare floor after removing kitchen cabinet

Based on the picture and what you described, you have tile set over vinyl sheet flooring that was put down over 1/4 in plywood used as underlayment, and the gray stuff underneath is the old floor boards.  I'm assuming you want to tile this because it's no longer going to have something sitting on it and you just want it to match for the next few years until you renovate the whole floor.
The easiest quickest thing to do would be to fill the gap in the thin plywood underlayment with more plywood, either same thickness or a little thicker to make up for thickness of vinyl, then set tile over that adhering it with thinset directly to that plywood.  If you don't put down plywood, you'll need to have the thinset a good deal thicker which means a) more thinset to buy+mix+handle, b) sloppy deep mess of thinset to work with and level tiles in, c) maybe over thickness spec for the thinset.  Also you'll be adhering directly to the floor boards and that's not great because a) you'll probably ruin those boards and will have to replace them if you do anything else with the floor later and b) they're almost certainly not a good substrate for tile because they flex from load and environmental changes.
Quarter inch plywood over floor boards is still not great, that tile is likely to crack either when you set something heavy on it, when the seasons change, or just from walking around in the kitchen.  Ideally, you'd make sure the structure underneath that floor is sufficiently strong so the floor doesn't flex, tare up the whole floor down to the floor boards, put down proper thickness of plywood, maybe some kind of waterproof membrane if you want a waterproof floor, then tile the whole thing wall to wall.
But as a temp fix, you can put down more plywood to make the hole less deep and protect the floorboards, set tile on it with thinset, and grout it.  You can try to knock out the cut tiles like Jack said if you want to make it more continuous.  For more info on setting tile, invest a few bucks in this book from amazon and check out the John Bridge forums.


Could a frozen dishwasher line have ruined something?

Yes

Are you kidding?  Water spilling out and even in your basement and you're asking if something 'could have been ruined'?  You're way past that point.

Freezing water breaks things.  It probably destroyed the pump in your dish washer and any fittings near by.

PROTIP: Don't let the next one freeze.


Rotating a staircase and making a new landing. How do I support it

You've asked some good questions.  However, your project is going to be a bit easier than you think!  You won't need a column & footing just to erect a small landing to re-route your staircase.  If you have any doubts, you can consult an engineer, who will accept your money and then tell you the additional dead load from the landing is no big deal.
So how do you support your new landing?
You can frame it directly on top of your plywood sub-floor.  You'll be building a short L-shaped wall to enclose the new landing.  This is accomplished with ordinary 16" on-center 2x4 framing.  Support your relocated 5-step staircase the same way.
Blocking between the I-joists
You should install blocking between your I-joists to provide additional support for the wall(s) which will support the landing.  Do that before erecting the walls, that way, you can nail the bottom plate of your new walls, through the subfloor, and into the blocking.
More resources
My guess is you may not have much experience with framing.  Check your local library for a book about framing walls.  I like the Black & Decker Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings and it should be easy to find in many libraries and home improvement stores.  Also, the book Building Stairs by Andy Engel is really great, with lots of illustrations, and I think it will help you a lot with your project.  In particular, it may give you some extra confidence when building your new handrail posts.
I hope this helps.


20 year old "Spongy" Roof - It was solid 5 years ago - Do I need new plywood?

Yes, the roof sheathing could go bad (weaken) after a few years due to 1) moisture, 2) extra heavy snow loads

1) Moisture is the most likely problem. Plywood is made from wood veneer plies that are glued together. When moisture seeps into the plies, they will delaminate. The plywood will probably look fine from the attic (looking up) but it will become spongy.

2) If the plywood is slightly undersized, (half inch thick on joists spaced 24” spacings) it could feel spongy, especially if there have been several extra heavy snowfalls.

The plywood will loose it’s Modulus of Elasticity (it’s ability to recover from deflection) if loaded to its capacity several times.

Generally we require 5/8” thick plywood for joists at 24” on center. (1/2” is rated for 24” spacing, but will deflect significantly.) If you live in a “high wind” area or a seismically active area, 5/8” is required. (High wind areas will suck your shingles off your roof without an additional holding power of a minimum of 5/8” thick plywood.)

Note: I doubt only 3 sheets are required. I also doubt a whole sheet will need to be replaced at each problem location. The roofers are going to find more problems and charge you accordingly once the roofing is removed. (Old common roofers trick.) I’d get a unit price for each 4’x8’ sheet and 4’x4’ half sheet that needs to be replaced.


First thing to check: is there (or was there) a well?  If your sprinkler system is attached to a well, then this is the first thing to check.  Make sure it's on and operating correctly.

If it's not attached to a well, then it's just a matter of tracing the pipes, possibly from each end.  Locate the main shutoff in the house and any lines running to unknown locations, particularly back outside.  Make sure all valves are open.  Then from outside, trace the line running back into the house and check if there are any access panels in the path that could be hiding a valve.

Finally, just an obvious check, check your breakers and make sure the system doesn't have a rain switch that has been activated.


Are GX24Q-3 bulbs compatible with G24Q-3 bases and vice versa?

No.

The GX24Q-3 base is designed for use with 4-pin triple-tube lamps.
The G24Q-3  base is designed for use with 4-pin double-tube lamps.

The electronics in the base (often referred to as the electronic ballast) is likely designed for the specific load configuration.

The IEC specifications for dimensions etc costs money and is copyrighted - so they are difficult to obtain casually. The G24 appears to have a longer/deeper central peg.

The first letter G indicates a multi-pin push-fit connector type?
The second letter, if present, X, is for triple-tube variants.
For other types X can mean twist-lock as in GX53.
The number after that is the major pin spacing in mm (24mm).
The final letter indicates bi-pin (d) or quad-pin (q).
The final digit, indicates the power range ("-3" = 26W - 32W).

Useful references:

Howard Lighting


Taking a neutral wire from another meter connection?

TL;DR: CALL YOUR ELECTRIC UTILITY ON THEIR EMERGENCY NUMBER

It sounds like you live in a duplex with dual services -- in that case, call your utility ASAP.  What the electrician did was a very dirty hack that will not pass Code muster, and likely screw with the electrical metering -- it will also break in interesting ways if later on the utility puts the two units on different transformer secondaries.

BTW -- an open neutral is an emergency situation, as it can easily be a fire and/or shock hazard.


Why are their no cheap wifi thermostats?

Simple programmable thermostats use so little energy that they can run a meaningful amount of time on batteries.
WiFi requires a considerable energy budget.  That characteristic of WiFi is why Bluetooth was created, to make earbuds, headphones etc. possible.  You'd have to change batteries twice a week if you had a battery powered WiFi thermostat!
As such, a WiFi thermostat needs to have a means to sap its own internal power needs off of the power going to the furnace etc.  That's actually a bit tricky, especially to get past regulators (i.e. to have a TUV, BSI or genuine, earned CE mark.)
Also, you are comparing apples and oranges.  Many of the "WiFi smart plugs"  you are seeing are cheap Cheese junk that is direct-imported, or direct-imported using Amazon's warehouses as a free-trade zone drop ship point.  The upshot is that the CE certification is worthless and faked.  That the item has earned its CE mark is the responsibility of the importer.  That's you. If you got it from Amazon, don't look at them - they insist they're "just a platform" for the third party seller you actually did buy the item from... And that seller has no presence in Europe, so not responsible for safety compliance.
Apparently our far-Eastern communist buddies are not that keen on offering dirt cheap WiFi smart 'stats for sale, or else they'd hit your price point too, I'm sure.  Probably for the best.


Can this be used to size up a flared fitting?

There are two common adapters that come with the yellow gas connector flex lines.  The fittings on the flex line are normally flare fittings, so the adapters are to change the size of flare, or (I think more commonly) to adapt pipe threads to flare.

The flex lines that I have purchased recently came with an adapter that was flare on one end, and the other end had male and female threads for standard pipe.  Your updated picture looks like this is the type in your kit.  In my previous comment, I said the threads are different between flare and pipe, and they are somewhat, but you might be able to thread the connector all the way on and have it "feel right" if you're not sure what to look for.

Flare to flare fittings don't have the extra male threads (like your original stock image).  The inside of the female threaded side will have an obvious cone shape for the flare to seal on.

So, to summarize based on the update image, I would say that the adapter you have is made to adapt standard pipe thread to a flare, and if you need to change the size of the flare, you need an additional adapter.

Bonus on thread types:

This site has some good info, but the basic thread sealing types are tapered threads, parallel threads and systems like flare fittings.

Steel pipe has tapered threads and the seal is created by the taper wedging the pipes together. Thread sealant/lubricant helps seal these because it helps get the threads tighter.

Things like shower heads and water hoses use parallel threads.  The two fittings do not "get tighter" as you go, so sealing has to be done by a third party, which is normally a rubber washer.  No sealant needed - the rubber does all the work.

Then, gas and hydraulic fittings are typically flare fittings.  They use parallel threads as well, but the end of the fitting has some sealing... apparatus.  The flared male and female sides are exactly matched or they use a malleable material (like soft pipe or a copper washer) so just small but firm tightening makes a gap-proof seal.  Again, no sealant needed.


This is not rocket science.  Some keys:

Keep area wet.
Make sure that you are wearing a proper mask and cover up.
Make sure that no one else is near the area.
Make sure to bag them properly.
Make sure you vacuum all loose particles with vac plus hepa filter.
Make sure you bring materials to proper place.  For instance 6-7 years ago I was doing a home and the only hazardous waste facility nearby was charging me an outrageous price per bag.  To the point where I might as well paid 8k to have someone do it.  Well obviously the remediation and waste companies were in cahoots.  But I have had to travel a good 75-100 miles to dump waste and I have seen laws around this sort of practice.  But you are talking about a very high revenue and highly regulated industry.  And most of the regulations are almost meaningless as they aren't actually geared to do anything to someone who doesn't follow them, they just want to make sure you paid to be "trained" to follow them.

Note:  Several remediation companies in my area will no longer do work for me.  After charging me a ton of money for removal of things like asbestos or lead paint I would go on my state's website to find that they didn't follow the very basic rules the state outlined.  So I gave them the choice between me sending them to the state or not paying and they chose me not pay.  Just saying there is a need to do this stuff right but it is an obnoxious industry.  It would be very easy for the state to say - here are the gloves, clothing, mask, plastic for the tent, whatever you need for each situation and then a person could decide to do it or not.  Most of the remediation people we get are contractors that passed a two day class or have been with the company less than 6 months.  So yes anyone can do this if you follow guidelines and rules.  Here is the website for Missouri asbestos removal.  Other states have similar sites - some better some worse.


How can I remove residue left after removing aluminum foil from my windows?

Sodium hydroxide or the main chemical in draino will dissolve aluminum. The green coating on the pellets is aluminum when in contact with water it causes a boiling effect , but I would use razor blades. Years ago when tinting windows was big we had to get the windows perfectly clean or bubbles in the tint showed. We used Windex and razor blades then a final wipe with a micro fiber cloth. The Windex or other window cleaner actually created a lubricant effect and the blades lasted longer but when debris are shaved off it helped to float the dirt and residue off the glass.


push in / snap in panel spring clip edge fastener? help finding product or name

You are using a wood door to cover a metal hole. You could attach some of this Super Strong Magnetic Backing to the wood with some epoxy or small pan head screws. This stuff holds 1 pound per an inch of length.


New grout yesterday, efflorescence today - what do I do?

The efflorescence is just a bit of salts that precipitated at the surface of the grout. Stop wire brushing it and wash it with a scrub brush, with a dilute solution of muriatic acid and warm water, that should take care of the problem.

Next time use a bit less water when mixing your grout, if it is soupy then that is too much water. Always let your grout slake, as (likely) described in the mixing instructions.

You should be sponging as you go, dirty sponge/clean sponge, with well wringed sponges, rinsing and changing bucket water frequently. This helps remove salt-carrying water from the grout surface before it can dry into an efflorescent crust or residue. Always follow up with an acidic "haze" sponging.


It appears that the product description you seek is called a compression brake caster. The specifications I've found using those terms in a search indicate the mechanism within causes the brake to activate when weight is applied. I recall a library step stool from my early days in which the entire caster was enclosed in a tubular leg. The mount for the caster was on a spring, which was compressed when weight was applied, causing the load to be held on the cylindrical leg. This does not appear to be the method for compression brake casters.
I would offer links, but there are far too many and would represent product recommendation, considering how many different choices are available.


Does the mold on this bathroom panel look like it can be washed off?

That panel is made of hardboard.
A cheap compressed fibre board that is often used for covering or closing areas which may need later access. Usually about 4 to 5mm thick and is often nailed, screwed or glued to a frame.
Given the porous nature of the board, then the best course of action is to replace it.


Electrical circuit breakers, how do I check

The only accurate test for a GFCI or AFCI is the built in test button on the breaker/device.

Anything else is convenient, but not completely accurate.

I have a suspicion that the circuit didn't work so you simply replaced the breaker, without troubleshooting to see if that was the actual problem. Most likely you have a problem with the circuit wiring or devices.


What type and size conductors and conduit should I use to feed a detached workshop?

I don't know what the "Electro Metro" code is, nor do you mention your location, so keep in mind my answers are based on a US installation under the NEC.

PVC conduit is fine for the whole run, and the easiest BY FAR. You can use Schedule 40 for any and all parts, buried or exposed but not subject to damage. Areas like where it emerges from the ground outside you'd need to use Sch80.
Again, 18" deep (to the top of the pipe) is fine for any residential installations. Table 300.5 is the NEC section for this.

Personally I'd go with #2AL for cost savings and 1-1/4" pipe. Since you'll have a mix of 120V and 240V loads you can run one #2, one #3 or 4 neutral, and a #6 ground. They do sell 100A MHF (mobile home feeder) cable that has this combination already grouped together. Remember, this type of wire/cable cannot be run exposed. You'd have to run the conduit completely from point to point.
You could also run the conduit to a big box in the house then change over to #2SER cable, but this takes some skill and knowledge to make the change over and splice.

I'd put this on an 80 or 90A feeder breaker in the main panel.


How do I fix up an unfinished, oil-stained pine table?

You have a difficult problem on your hands my friend. there is no way to remove oil based stains, including olive oil, from natural wood. Pine is actually a very soft wood and easily absorbs stains of all types. A very shallow stain can sometimes be steamed up, sanded and refinished, but a larger stain from an oil may have penetrated deeply into the wood fibers.  The first method will not please you, that is to completely sand the table top to unstained bare wood and start the finishing from scratch. (see my previous answers of finishing pine) The second method may not be as successful in creating an even matching color, but maybe worth a try. Lightly sand the yellow area and feather into the unaffected area a little bit. Try to remove as much of the yellow as possible without making a divot in that spot. Custom mix some Minwax stains  so to create as close a match as possible.  Apply some of your mix to a scrap piece of pine, let it dry a couple of hours and compare the color to the existing color of your table. More than one coat of stain on the test pine may be necessary to get the depth of color to really compare to the original. This is obviously a trail and error method and a bit of patience may be required. If your color looks close but a bit too dark, use neutral stain to lighten it, if too light, use a bit of a dark base like ebony or a very dark version of the primary color. Obviously you need to know what basic color you are seeking, ie: maple, oak, cherry etc. and start with that base color and start experimenting.  The more you can feather the replacement colors into the existing colors, the less obvious the repair will appear. Since the age of pine and cut of the wood, (heart wood vs outside cuts near bark) can make a difference on how it reacts to stains, test your best match on a very small area adjacent to some original color to check the match. You can use a Q tip and just do a small spot. Sorry I don't have a quick and easy silver bullet fix for you.  Good luck


What is the maximum distance a trap can be installed from a shower drain?

If a 3" pipe is run to a 2" trap the pipe is sufficiently oversized to be considered self venting.
A running trap may be used remotely which uses less space at the shower drain.
To answer the original question, I don't know the distance to trap max but it depends on the piping size.


Is a 1x6 enough to secure a wall mount sink?

I would use something wider than a 1x6 - why not?  Even if the mounting plate is smaller, the wider board will be easier to hit, and will be stronger.

If yellow pine or douglas fir are available they are a lot stronger than white pine.

I don't trust toe-nail attachments with skinny boards.  The old school way to do it would to be notch the studs so the board lays in the notch, then face nail (or better, face screw) it into the studs.
 But that's a bit of work, not too bad with an oscillating tool but still.

The easier alternative would be to use an angle bracket.  For example, the Simpson Strong Tie L70Z is not made for this exact purpose, but I think it would be suitable, and it would be easy to make a very strong attachment.


I don't think this is a great idea. The cabin kits you've found have the following major drawbacks that I can see:

No insulation. You'll have unnecessarily high heating and cooling bills unless you plan to build where it's 75 and cloudy year-round.
No real protection from water. When those boards get wet, so will the interior side, eventually. As soon as that happens, everything will immediately suck.
No racking resistance. I don't see anything but a hope and a prayer protecting a house built out of those from blowing down in high wind.
No bowing resistance. The heavier your roof, the more those walls look likely to bow out.
Not airtight. You can see the gaps in the corners in your picture. Hot or cold air is going to whistle through those joints. During a windstorm, it'll be very uncomfortable.
Nowhere to hide wiring and plumbing.
Awkward integration with windows and doors. Most of them have jambs or frames that are 3.5" thick; they'll protrude awkwardly from one of the two sides. You could trim wood frame door jambs, but you can't do the same for windows.

Those things really look more like storage sheds than anything I'd want to live in. In order to make it work, you'd be swimming upstream every step of the way. Why bother? Go with the flow. Conventional wood frame construction is super cheap and easy to do--that's why it's the dominant construction method in price-sensitive America. It's easy to learn, too. Almost all tiny house builders had no conventional construction expertise beforehand, but they picked up what they needed in a week or two of hands-on work. It's really not that hard.

Additionally, one of the advantages of building a tiny house is that you can utilize high-quality components due to the fact that you don't need a lot of them. I'm talking about things like mineral wool insulation batts and boards, standing seam roofing, wood shingle siding or stone veneer, deluxe high-performance windows, etc. Really nice stuff. All of these things will be barely more expensive than their crappier equivalents for a <200 sf house due to how little you'll need. But if you try to turn a glorified storage shed into a house, you'll lose the ability to easily do that, and spend all your time cutting door frames to fit your super thin wall and devising ways to make the roof not collapse once you realize you need more insulation. What's the point?


First take very accurate measurements of the rough-ins and draw a proper diagram showing each of them in relation to the nearest walls. A good diagram will help you in the future but also add value to your house on resale. If I was buying a house and someone mentioned they were covered up I would treat that as having nothing. If someone could show me a diagram and I find one that I can pour water down that may save a home owner a few thousand.
Cut each out below ground level and then fill with floor leveler. If during the cutting process you are opening or exposes a PVC pipe, cap it before the floor leveler.
The other option is to try to hide them in walls but looking at yours, probably won't work.
The pipes here were never expected to be used as-is. Sometimes, maybe, but not normally. So you cutting them will have little to no damage to future use. If people know where they are at and the pipes are in good workable condition under your flooring that is 98% of it.


How should I mount a TV stand on a wall covered in drywall?

I wouldn't hang my TV from the drywall. You really should put it in a stud.


What energy saving methods can I use for a new gas water heater?

A blanket is unnecessary and some manufacturers of tank WHs state that a blanket should not be added.

The temperature set point of a tank should not be below 130 F and some say not below 140 F. This high temperature is necessary to prevent the growth of Legionella bacteria. For the same reason a timer is not recommended and I don't think a gas tank can be controlled by a timer.

Research the proper temperature setting and just use the heater as it is equipped. If you have a shower with a thermostatic anti-scald valve it would be OK to use 140 F, but if you don't, then you might want to use the lowest recommended temperature setting. A lot depends on how many people in your house want to shower at the same time or in quick succession.


What is the easiest and most cost effective way to turn a 1 bedroom apartment into 2 bedrooms?

Unless your existing room already happens to have two doors then the project that you propose is never going to get any where because the project is more than trying to build some divider wall.

Trying to cut an additional doorway into the room is just not something you can freely do to a property that you happen to be renting.

Additionally the requirements you have placed on the performance of the divider wall would require that you build in a good solid wall. This is simply not something you can do to a property that you are renting.


Removing caulking can be time consuming, especially in the bathroom. From my experience there is no magic solution.

I recommend these tools:

flat head screw driver
small paint scrapper (plastic as to not scratch any finishes)
hair dryer

Using the hair dryer, heat up the caulking, then use paint scrapper to loosen the caulking by pushing on top and bellow, try to keep the caulk intact. Once you've freed one end, try to gently pull away following the line in which is was laid. Use the paint scrapper as you peel away and try to get long lengths to keep it clean.

The flat head screwdriver is if you have difficulty getting a started but usually the paint scraper will do the job.

If the caulking is dry, you will be using both the screw driver and paint scraper.

Patience is a must.


Raised area in plywood is a problem - please help

2mm humps are not common with good quality plywood. You could plane or (with effort) sand that flat without impacting strength. (Note that you would impact the finish, as you'd go through the veneer into the inner plies.

MDF would be flatter, but not as strong as plywood. If you need dead flat and a nice finish, (and you had room) you could consider putting a thin skin of mdf (like, 6-12mm) on top of the ply that you'd flattened. (You might even get away with not flattening the ply, as the mdf skin would make the 2mm difference very hard to perceive.)

Alternately, and you'll have to judge if this is appropriate for your application, you could put the hump at the bottom of the bed where it might be less noticeable.


The simplest option, assuming that the flange would not stand too high above the finished floor, is to do nothing. The wax ring used to seal between the flange and the toilet can take up quite a lot of misalignment. If the difference from the high side to the low side is less than maybe 1/4 inch (or even more, possibly) it'll be fine.
I'm not sure that a hair dryer will make enough heat to soften the ABS pipe but a hot air gun would.
It sounds like you're still in the rough construction stage where pipe replacement is simple. If so, and if the angle is really bothersome, cut it out and re-do the work. Mistakes happen and sometimes we have to re-do stuff but that's ok.


How do I locate the ceiling joists in my kitchen addition?

I like the rubber insulated handle of my screw driver as a knocking tool.  The rubber handle of a hammer works well, won't mar the ceiling.  A small finish nail leaves very little hole behind. (Happy Hunting) I carry an electronic stud finder as well. The newer stud finders are pretty amazing, fab results.  You don't need an expensive finder for impressive results.  I would avoid the low, low end models.


Two 20A circuits in a single kitchen receptacle - what size box do I need?

Cable clamps are things which, well, clamp the cable to keep it from flopping around where it enters the box.  You must only count cable clamps for box fill if they exist, and if they intrude into the box.   If so, all of them together count as 1 of the largest wire.
Equipment safety grounds must be there. You need to ground stuff; using plastic boxes doesn't reduce the need for grounding - actually it makes grounding more important since the outlets can't ground to the box!  If you have any grounds and you darn well better, then all of them together count as 1 of the largest wire.
Pigtails are free.  At least in a statutory sense; they certainly take a lot of room.   However there is no need to use pigtails if you invest in the better, $3 "Screw-and-clamp" type receptacles, which are able to clamp 2 wires under each screw. Stuffing a recep with 8 stiff #12 solid wires into a box, that'll be fun. Seriously, I'd pigtail with stranded wire, and still use screw-and-clamps (since putting stranded wire on a screw is hard).
Your setup has 2 circuits serving the same yoke.  Those 2 circuits MUST be handle-tied. or on a 2-pole breaker.  As a practical matter, that will oblige you to put them on opposite poles, unless you do something weird with a GE panel.
If you are using GFCI breakers, you might want to acquaint yourself with the Multi-wire branch circuit. This provides a way to do this same thing with only 6 wires instead of 8.  (neutral must be pigtailed, and if you don't pigtail the others, you're only muscling 5 wires).  MWBCs are generally considered archaic because of the need for a 2-pole GFCI breaker, but you're pretty much there anyway, so why not?


Extend a wire that i had to splice to sister my floor joist is too short now

2 junction boxes is there best approach. But instead of a removable panel, just get blank covers for the boxes and mount the boxes to the drywall. You also don't have to keep the wires in the same place they are now. You could cut more off and put the boxes farther apart, if that makes disguising the boxes easier.


Why are 120 V general receptacle circuits limited to 20 A?

Why 20A? Receptacle design constraints, most likely

The reason why general receptacle circuits top out at 20A is because the notion of a duplex receptacle doesn't work for larger plug sizes (just can't fit enough meat in there at a suitable spacing for it to work), nor does the idea of a "shared" receptacle (T-slot) that can accept 15A or 20A plugs, as well as the inability to get "feed through" functionality for a larger receptacle size.  (The parts required just become too large and cumbersome.)

There is a tricky way to get what you're really after, though

If you want to get more than 20A to a large number of receptacles in a space like a kitchen, though, there is a way to do this under the Code.  What you do, though, instead of running a fat cable directly to receptacles, is run that same fat feeder cable to a suitably-sized track busway, which then has bus plugs plugged into it that have fuses or breakers and standard 15/20A receptacles in them.  (Think of it like lighting track, only beefier -- it's common in industrial and lab applications where reconfiguration is a need.)

For a kitchen, I could see this working with the busway mounted under the upper cabinets and against the wall, with strip lighting attached to the front of the busway if you wished to have that as well.  Each bus plug would likely contain a 20A fuse and a Dual Function (AF/GF) receptacle (or a 20A Dual Function circuit breaker, if you don't mind the plugin units needing to be larger), and you'd want to run the feeder using metal-clad cable or wires in conduit instead of NM to mitigate against arc faults in the busway feeder.


Is there an average number of outlets that are wired off of one circuit breaker?

For residential, the National Electric Code (NEC) has no official min.  In Commercial and Industrial you can put 10 on a 15 amp breaker and 13 on a 20 amp breaker.  Local codes sometimes specify a max, so you might want to check if you are going high.

But yeah, thats really low!  Unless there were some dedicated appliances running there, you can definitely add more.  10-12 outlets per 20A breaker is what I normally do.  Now if I know I will be running heavier stuff like TV's, stereo equipt, or small bar refrigerators, I will use less.  Keep in mind some appliances need a dedicated line like full refrigerators, dishwashers, spa tubs, etc.


Alternatives to springs for recessed can light trims?

Welcome to the world of recessed lighting. I've run into this a few times and have used common springs. You have to shape the ends to fit into the can. Rubber bands and elastic string won't stand up to the heat long term.

Instead, exact replacements are available online at $1.18 for two.

Since you're installing 40 trims and need two "springs" per trim, any retrofits will take a lot more time to install. It might be worth the price to buy the springs and do it right. Good luck.


Identifying old single handle shower valve/cartride?

Looks similar to mine.
"Price Pfister, the Pfabulous Pfaucet with the Pfunny name".
Web search for Pfister Style 974-491 should yield multiple purchasing options.


What is the safest way to cut up an old kerosene storage tank?

Kerosene is not terribly flammable, so it probably is not a problem anyway. I'd pick a windy day, or even simpler, maybe have a fan blowing across where you are working, to keep any fumes away from the motor.

I'd also use a reciprocating saw, not an angle grinder, at least if I had the choice. Even if you have a carbide blade for the grinder, a reciprocating saw may still cut as fast or faster than a grinder, and it will generate less heat when cutting a plastic tank body.

If you are still worried, I'll bet that a good sharp (hand powered) pruning saw, the type that cuts on the pull stroke, will cut up a plastic tank at least as easily as would an angle grinder.


Both the taut line or cinch would work I believe the cinch will get it tighter. Or a combination of cinch and a couple of 1/2 hitch to secure the cinch.


How can I attach an air compressor to the pictured sprinkler system

That is a Vacuum Breaker which is in place to prevent water from siphoning back from the sprinkler system into the water supply. It closes under water pressure and opens to the atmosphere under vacuum.

You theoretically could spin the top off and using a rubber ball fitting, use an air hose to apply pressure, however; the inflow side of the circuit will have a manual or electric zone control valve preceeding it that could be damaged by air pressure being forced into its outlet. They're usually a rubber diaphragm servo action valve that is only meant to block pressure on the inlet side and probably won't take kindly to having it forced through them backwards. So, it would be best if you could arrange an adapter that would seal against the inlet seat and the top so the air pressure only gets applied to the outlet of the vacuum breaker.

Zone Control Servo action diaphragm valve.


Should I run conduit to protect an exposed cable and comply with code?

Normally anything below ceiling height requires conduit or a different wiring method. I understand you can not access the wire on the wall but if an inspector can see it they will usually say something. If you could add a trim board to cover that space between the furnace and the wall it will not be exposed and you will be good to go.


Why is my shallow well jet pump cycling on and off rapidly?

Listed reasons for excessive cycling in J+ installation manual:

Defective suction check or foot valve
Water logged pressure tank
Pump farther than 5 feet from tank
High friction loss valves between pump and tank. (Use only fully open gate valves)

Parts breakdown list

I take it this is a shallow well with the jet assembly bolted to the front of the pump and not a deep well installation with two pipes coming out of the pump with the jet assembly down in the well.

Jet pumps work by blasting a high speed jet of water through a venturi to augment their suction. If your crusty fitting was in the opening (4), it could release chunks that get caught in both the jet nozzle (5) and the gap between the jet and the venturi (6). The plug (1) allows you to use a piece of brass welding rod to try chunking out anything caught in the jet nozzle.


The main risk with a short mast is that your feeder cables may come in contact with your roof, particularly at the edges, or other roof fixtures. (What is that metal rod in front of it -- maybe an antenna?)

Because the cable is flexible, it can move during a windstorm. Over the years, if it is rubbing against your roof, the insulation can wear down and you risk electrifying parts of your house or reducing the reliability of your electric service. Worst case, the cables could arc and cause a fire.

Adjusting the length may be a simple operation but to do it safely requires shutting off power before that point, which you'd need the utility to handle. Additionally, further work may be required if, say, the wire leading down to your meter or service panel was not long enough to simply extend the current mast in place.

I'd recommend calling your electric utility to come check it out. They will tell you what the safety concerns and current codes are, and may even be able to correct the problem. For the work on/in your home, you may need an electrician, depending on your state, and will almost certainly need a permit.


Having more than one conductor under a screw is usually illegal and considered unwise. Pigtails would fix that.
It's not uncommon to see a hot chained across multiple switches. ("Jumper" is a better term--"traveler" usually refers to three-way switch wiring.) The only concern there relates to question 1. Again, change it to a pigtail configuration.
We can only guess. You'd normally trace the downstream conductor, but there apparently isn't one.


GFCI tester doesn't trip GFCI. Bootleg ground?

It is normal for a plug-in GFCI tester to not work, if the receptacle is not grounded.   GFCI testers are not magic.

GFCIs work by comparing current on the "hot" wire to current returning on the "neutral" wire. If all is well, they should be equal.  if they are not equal, some current is traveling down a third path possibly through a human.

If a third path does not exist, then tripping a GFCI is impossible.   An external tester cannot trip a GFCI if it only has access to hot and neutral.   The GFCI itself can test itself by using an internal path which goes around the LINE and LOAD terminals, both of which it has access to.  An external tester can't do that.

So failure to trip at a downstream outlet does not tell you anything one way or the other about whether ground has been bootlegged there.   It only tells you ground is not present.   Such a receptacle should have "GFCI protected" and "No Equipment Ground" stickers and will need those to pass home inspection.

To use an external tester at such a location, get a common 3 to 2 prong cheater, the kind that has a 3 inch green pigtail meant to be attached to the receptacle screw.  Extend that using whatever wire you have on hand, all the way to the panel, attach it to the building's grounding electrode system.   That becomes the third path.

You are allowed to retrofit proper grounds to a receptacle without disturbing the hot/neutral wiring, and you don't even need to use the same route.   (Also remember metal conduit is a ground path).  However if a circuit has GFCI protection upstream, I would call such an upgrade a low priority.  In some ways, GFCI protects better than actual grounding.


Should I replace this 4" furnace filter with a 5" one?

Call the furnace installer and ask what size, type, and specs for the filter to fit the rack he installed. It looks as if a certain type filter should be installed since it has a cover door. Usually these filter racks handle a certain type of filter and not a standard 4" or 5" filter.


Can I safely connect 10amp flexible/stranded wire to a 15amp connector which in turn is connected to 2.0mm solid house wiring?

Caveat: Definitely take the advice of a local professional electrician.

Yes, You're Okay Doing This

This is assuming that your dimmer is rated for your household current and that you don't attach any loads to the dimmer that exceed the capacity of the wire, and your circuit breaker protects the wire either way. This actually strikes me as an interesting issue with things like dimmer switches in the U.S. They virtually all come with stranded leads permanently wired in, for attachment to the "mains" power, and I've never seen leads bigger than #18 (1.0mm) or maybe #16 on a residential dimmer switch. It's obviously safe, and it's implicitly covered by code because the wires are an integral part of a tested and approved device, just like all the little #18 wires inside your electric stove and oven.

Since you're in an area where the electrical standard is the same as the U.K., you're looking at a 230V/50Hz dimmer without permanently-attached leads something like this one or like this one, I presume?

But it would be the same as if you were using a 230V/50Hz manual dimmer like this one.

In short; yes, it is safe to use a wire nut or WAGO connector to connect a smaller wire from your dimmer switch to the house wiring, presuming you're using an appropriately-sized connector. Loose connections are the enemy, leading to heat and fires.

If your professional electrician said everything is okay as long as every wire is good for at least 10A, I'd believe him/her. In the U.S., you would never use #18 wire (1.0mm) for running household circuits, but it's used all over the place in appliance cords, light fixtures, things like dimmer switches and inside of appliances, and is good for at least 10A (actually, it's good for 14A at 90°C/194°F).

Paper auto-ignites somewhere around 450°F (232°C). In other words, the rules are appropriately conservative on the side of safety, no matter where you live. And you're putting this wire inside a box where it isn't directly exposed to ignition sources (paper, wood). So you have just enough smaller wire inside the box to connect the dimmer to mains power, and the wire is good for 14A at a maximum operating temperature of 90°C, the entire circuit is on a 10A circuit breaker, and your local electrician told you that as long as all of the wire is good for at least 10A, you're safe. I believe you're good to go!

The only way it's going to get up to 90°C in that box is if you've made poor/loose electrical connections in there. Even putting the box in direct sunlight all day wouldn't make it hotter than that.

Why?

You have a presumably tested and approved AC-powered device (your dimmer), intended for your locale (your local voltage), with power terminals that can only accommodate wire of a certain maximum size. Those power terminals are the size they are because the device plus the attached light draw only a limited amount of power. They will draw as much power as they are designed to draw, and no more. Connecting it to a bigger wire or bigger breaker will NOT cause it to draw more power.

You could wire that dimmer switch straight to the bus bars in your service panel and it would function normally. Circuit breakers don't change the voltage on the wire, they just protect the wire from overheating. If you hook up a bigger load than the breaker's rating, the breaker will trip before the wire gets so hot that it starts a fire. So the circuit breaker is ultimately about protecting human life from fires.

It is also perfectly safe to connect a larger wire to a smaller breaker. In some cases, you want to do exactly that. For example, if you have a long circuit run, you will get voltage drop over the circuit, but voltage drops less with bigger wire.

It is NOT okay to connect a smaller wire to a larger breaker than it is rated for.

(EDIT removed reference to AWG, but it's easy enough to find references to both British/Imperial Wire Gauge and American Wire Gauge, and the find table comparing both and showing amperage ratings for both if anyone is interested).


Does a thin tandem 2x15amp breaker draw 15 or 30 amps for a panel load calculation?

No.  The breakers have no effect whatsoever on the panel load calculation.
Because load calculations do not work that way.
Load calculations are based on house square footage and major electrical appliances.  Adding a Tesla EVSE has an effect.  Adding an addition has an effect.  Fewer vs more receptacle/lighting branch circuits has no effect.
Think about it. Suppose you buy a house and you find all the bedrooms and living room and outdoor outlets sharing 1 circuit.  However, the builder actually ran 7 homeruns for all these; they just landed them all on the same breaker.   It's an effortless job to split them all out, so you just get 6 more breakers. Now each has a breaker.  Did you change the load calculation on the house or panel?  Does the house now have more square footage? Did you add any major appliances?  No, not at all. It's the same house with the same loads.  There are just more breakers behind the loads.
Or, you build a house to NEC minimums with 1 recep circuit for all 3 bathrooms.  I build the same house, but because Harper, I wire 2 dedicated 20A circuits per bathroom.  Yours all fits in a 24-space panel, I installed dual 40s.  Our square footage and major appliances are identical.  Are our load calculations different? NO.

The only thing that double-stuff breaker is relevant to is stab limits.  That's 30A worth of stab load, so across from it can't be more than a 95A breaker if it's the usual 125A stab limit.


How long will stored powder charges last?

While their power may be degraded, using them is not likely to be dangerous. The barrel of the nail gun is what really contains the blast.


How to protect outdoor transformer plugging into in-use outlet?

The transformer in that kit is designed for outdoor use, the cord plug should be protected with an "in-use" type receptacle cover.


Using wood for sound proofing sounds like a ton of work compared to the gain you would get from it.  The easiest thing to do (and likely more effective) would be to put in fiberglass batt insulation to fill the dead air space and then double up the sheetrock on both sides (or whichever side is open). Adding mass is the key, preferably at a widely different resonance level from the framing. Sheetrock fits both bills very well.  If you want to do a simple experiment, put your ear on a stud length 2x4 and have somebody tap lightly on the other end and you'll see what I'm talking about.  If you really want to cut down sound transfer, use a wider floor plate and stagger-stud the wall as well.


Needing to add an outlet but confused why builder used 14-3 wire on a non-switched outlet

From your pictures, I don't see the third conductor.  Is there a red wire that we aren't seeing?  From what I can see it looks like he was daisy-chaining the outlets by creating a pigtail.  Since he didn't use the second set of terminals (or the first for that matter, not the way I would have done it) You can just pull power directly off the screw terminals.  Just remember to attach your ground.  If I'm missing something, please update your post and I will as well.


There is a switch around where filter bypass goes a lot of off brand filters wont work and bypass has to in correctly. those filter housing has a habit of getting clogged.


How can I seal the edges of a linoleum floor that possibly contains asbestos?

You are far more likely to die from worrying about asbestos than from asbestos.

I just finished dealing with the same thing you are.  Where possible, I installed engineered flooring and underlayment over the linoleum.  They look killer! :)
My mother, a retired cyto-technologist, kind of laughed at me about my own asbestos concerns.

http://fumento.com/asbestos/asbest.html


Can I attach a HEPA filter to the HVAC outlet?

Adding a filter onto an HVAC unit that's not designed for one will almost certainly cause problems... definitely with efficiency, possibly mechanical problems as well. If your model does not have a built-in filter you would probably be better served by getting a standalone air filter.

However, many units do have at least a basic filter built-in, and you may be able to clean it or replace it. Typically they are on the input side of the unit, to remove any particles or debris before the air passes through the unit. If you have or can find a user's manual, check there for instructions. Or it may be obvious once you start looking. In the USA they are often large square filters that come in standard sizes and slide into the unit, but on a smaller model like a window unit it may be a non-standard size. I do not know anything about HVAC equipment in China.


Which is more effective in a 3.5" stud bay--"R13" or "R19" batt insulation?

R-13, will be. When R-19 is cramped in the same space, it is still R-13. R-19 will be a waste of money.

Use spray foam in the bays to achieve R-19.

Use your extra R-19 in the attic if possible, pull the paper off and layer it over the other insulation, if you have access.


Does a larger solar water heater equate to better water pressure?

No, unless the larger tank is taller, increasing the average height.


How would you vent my basement bathroom fan?

Is your furnace in the basement?  Is it forced air?

If so, the main supply run probably goes UNDER the joists... Attach your bath fan run alongside it.


Can I lay tile over drywall that has torn paper?

Given the cost of tile and the value (or cost) of labor, I'd go with ripping it back to the studs and installing a proper tile backer-board (Durock®, Hardi-Backer® or the like) rather than fuss with a dubious substrate. It will be faster than trying to repair the drywall surface and it's a better surface for attaching tile to.


Are there any reasons not to upgrade to 200A service?

Cost
Service upgrades tend to be expensive, since it usually involves installing a new service panel.  Depending on your situation, you may find that the cost far outweighs the reward. If you already have 100 Amp service, and you haven't added on to the home, you may find the upgrade unnecessary.
Availability
The upgrade has to be supported by the existing infrastructure, otherwise the provider may charge you to upgrade their system.  Just like the wires in your home have to be sized properly to carry the load, the distribution wires also have to be capable of providing the extra power.  If the distribution system is at, or near its limit, the provider will have to make upgrades to the system before it can offer an upgrade to you.  In this case the provider will either tell you it can't offer you the service, or they'll offer the service but only if you pay extra to help offset their costs.  This is not a common scenario in most large US cities, though can still be encountered in less populated rural areas.


We often design and build “safe rooms” in custom homes. Safe rooms have several requirements: 1) structurally secure, 2) fire protection, 3) temperature and humidity control,
You are requesting information about fire protection only. However, it might be important to have a space that can protect you structurally in case of a severe wildfire AND keep documents in good condition year round.

Structurally, reinforced concrete block is an excellent choice for walls, but you’ll need a suitable ceiling. I’d recommend a “heavy timber” ceiling covered with several layers of gypsum board or a structural concrete slab.

Fire protection is based on “hours of protection”. That is to say, all materials are given a fire rating depending how long you need to keep a space safe. The Code requires a 1-hour rating between the garage and a home, which is about how long it takes to get everyone and everything important out safely. I’d recommend 4-hour protection, but you can’t obtain a 4-hour rating with wood framing. (You’ll need concrete block and/or concrete.)

You can buy fire doors that have fire ratings too.

If you add a duct into your new fireproof space, you’ll need to install a fire damper that shuts off during a fire. Very common, but you’ll need other means of oxygen if you plan on having the room being a place of rescue.

Floor construction is less important, but using a non-combustible material like a 4” concrete slab on grade would be appropriate. (Make sure ground water and water table is accounted for and the area is adequately drained with a french drain.)
Depending on where you live, access to fire protection, etc. will help you decide how secure and how much fire resistance is required.


are tamper resistant receptacles required when rewiring an old house

I'd use TR receptacles in any case. Here in Tennessee, if I were to pull a permit to do this, yes my jurisdiction wants permits for anything and everything electrical, I would most definitely have to use TR outlets. They aren't much more in expense compared to a standard receptacle.

It's not overkill and I personally would prefer to err towards safety and/or over protection. This will also prevent any issues down the road as far as codes are concerned.

Edit: (Brain fart)

Not sure about carbon monoxide detectors, but hardwired smokes are required.

As for your outdoor receptacles, they do need weatherproof covers but the type of cover will depend on location. Weatherproof ( bubble ) covers should be used if a receptacle is located where there's no overhead protection or if a receptacle is installed, say on a covered porch, but the receptacle is 3' or less away from the edge of the covering roof.


Identifying Dusk to Dawn Floodlight with 'Modern Light sensors'

I am looking at both of your posts. To start I don't think you will find what you looking for integrated in a fixture. I think the best method to control your lighting the way you are asking would be to use a sunset to sunrise timer. Such as this one https://www.intermatic.com/-/media/inRiver/10202-9209.ashx/HB880R%20Instructions%20EN.

Note that this particular one is an Intermatic or you could use a Tork or any other reliable manufacturer. It comes with the ability to set times and it will adjust through the year to come on and of at a predetermined time just after sunset and just before sunrise, and it has battery back up. Also note it says it is for a tungsten load so you might connect it up to a pilot relay like a RIB (Relay in a Box). If you do it this way you can series in a motion detector or photocell or any other control device and it should work fairly well. It is not likely that you will find these items in a retail outlet. You can purchase it from an industrial supplier like Grainger or McMaster Carr. You might also be able to order it through an electrical wholesaler if they sell to the public or you have an account with them.

Other than that the only other method I know of is to use a building automation system like Lithonia's Big Blue Box and they do have photocells that detect footcandle levels but you have to have a microprocessor and software to control it. That may be more money than you want to spend since I know a base package is somewhere around $2,500.00 and you still need to have the technical expertise to program it and maintain it.

Any way look around the Inertmatic site and see what you can find. Good Luck.


How to install crown molding with uneven cabinet height?

A classic approach in cabinetry is the use of filler strips.  These are pieces of wood, matched to the finish of the cabinets that are used to fill gaps, usually between cabinets. Often the horizontal spacing does not work out to exactly the width of standard cabinets (especially in renovation work). You design to the standard sizes slightly narrower than the overall, and then add a vertical filler strip between, or at the end of a cabinet, to fill the gap.

The same principal can be used to fill a gap between the top of the cabinet and the ceiling that will then give you a horizontal surface to attach the crown molding. A strip will probably have to be tapered to fill much of the gap, but it does not have to come down to a point because the molding will cover much of the gap. The strip can be glued into place,since it is purely cosmetic, but be careful when nailing in the crown.

The biggest question will be finish.  If the cabinets are painted, you may be able to buy a filler strip from the cabinet manufacturer and run it horizontally instead of vertically.

For stained cabinets, you can do the same, but the grain will run perpendicular to that of the cabinets. It is a matter of taste as to whether that is acceptable to you.

You also could put in a homemade filler strip (plywood, clear poplar, mdf) and paint it to match either the cabinets or the the crown molding. If yo paint it to match the crown, the effect will be that the crown looks like it is a bit deeper at that point, but probably will not be noticeable.


You're stuck with the two-circuit approach, although I'd use a single 12/2/2 cable for the homerun for that
As it turns out, the NEC doesn't allow taps off 40 or 50A branch circuits to feed space-heating appliances in a dwelling unit (this is a combination of 210.19(A)(4) and 424.3(A)).  So, you're required to use the "5 wire" approach, running two 20A, 240VAC branch circuits to the switch box and thus onward to the heating appliance.  While you could use the approach of pairing 12/2s to make the homerun, I would use a single 12/2/2 cable for the NM leg of the circuit to avoid silly issues with circuits getting "split" across cables and thus violating Code.


Pump control panel (electrical diagram attached). Could someone tell which ones of 1 2 3 4 5 6 are hots and which one are neutral?

They're all "hot". You're dealing with switches, so there's no "neutral".  You have an ungrounded (hot) conductor leading to the switch, and an ungrounded (hot) conductor coming back from the switch.

The switches are simply a way to open the circuit, so it doesn't usually matter which way they're installed.  When the switch is open, the circuit is open. When the switch is closed, the circuit is closed.

The grounded (neutral) doesn't come in until after the load.


Add concrete (or asphalt patch) until the slope is to the drain,
or break out concrete, possibly lower the drain, and replace concrete broken
out with concrete that slopes properly to the drain.

A thin topcoat to correct the slope may not last for long, but it's easy to try for a start.

Breaking out and replacing will result in a thicker pour that's more likely to hold up through freeze/thaw cycles, if applicable to your location.


Connecting 14 AWG to 12 AWG for oven operation

A 30A connection will require a much heavier wiring connection than either 12 AWG or 14 AWG. It is common that a 40A or 50A cord is used to hook up a range unit. These can be purchased in several lengths with molded on plugs at the end.

As always make sure that your outlet, wiring back to the entrance panel and the circuit breakers are sized properly for the load. The circuit components are normally rated a bit higher than the maximum current draw of the range. So a range unit that pulls 30 or 32A should be on a 40A circuit.