Is it a problem that a pipe in basement slopes upwards slightly for 9 feet?

There is no reason any sewer pipe should slope upward. Gravity is what it is.


How can I insulate pex pipes that have supports at every joist?

Insulation won't make hot water come faster

When you open the valve initially, the hot water pipe is full of cool water, because it cooled off.

Pipe insulation won't stop the cool-off, just slow it down a little, not enough to matter unless you are following someone else into the shower.  After even 20 minutes of disuse, the water in the pipe will cool significantly and you'll have to start over.  Start what over?

Out, darned pipe!

The pipe is now (at best) a very tall piston full of cool water, and the hot water entering from the heater must plunger the cold water out, via the faucet.   The time this takes is determined by VolumeOfPipe / FlowRate.  For instance if the pipe holds a gallon of water and flow rate is 4 gallons-per-minute, it'll take 1/4 minute or 15 seconds.

How much volume does a pipe hold?   That is Length * 3.1416 * Radius * Radius.  The important part is radius is squared, which makes it an extremely potent factor.  Double pipe diameter, volume quadruples, and so does delay.

So what happens when a deluxe-minded homeowner decides to increase pipe diameter "to be fancy"?  Exactly.

Options

One is to downsize your hot water pipe volume as much as possible. Will 3/8" pipe give a workable flow?  You have 2 redundant runs, but that might be better - each one has its own dedicated "plunger" of cool water to purge, but the lines would be able to be smaller, so less delay.

Do you have a ton of extra electrical capacity in the house?  The single best way to move hot water across a house is fat AA-8000 electrical cable supplying a tankless heater right next to the point-of-use.  In a New England home, this takes careful design because you need a lot of temperature rise.

Do you have enough electrical or gas/venting capacity to add a second tanked heater at that end of the house?

Or given your usage, should the main heater really be there instead?


What type of dryer best handles long exhaust vents?

At 5 meters, your actually well within the allowed length of duct work allowed for a dryer vent (depending on how many bends you have).

  International Residential Code (IRC) 2012

  Section M1502 Clothes Dryer Exhaust

  M1502.4.1 Material and size.
  Exhaust ducts shall have a smooth interior finish and be constructed of metal having a minimum thickness of 0.0157 inches (0.3950 mm) (No. 28 gage). The duct shall be 4 inches (102 mm) nominal in diameter.

  M1502.4.2 Duct installation.
  Exhaust ducts shall be supported at intervals not to exceed 12 feet (3658 mm) and shall be secured in place. The insert end of the duct shall extend into the adjoining duct or fitting in the direction of airflow. Exhaust duct joints shall be sealed in accordance with Section M1601.4.1 and shall be mechanically fastened. Ducts shall not be joined with screws or similar fasteners that protrude more than 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) into the inside of the duct.

  M1502.4.4 Duct length.
  The maximum allowable exhaust duct length shall be determined by one of the methods specified in Section M1502.4.4.1 or M1502.4.4.2.

  M1502.4.4.1 Specified length.
  The maximum length of the exhaust duct shall be 35 feet (10 668 mm) from the connection to the transition duct from the dryer to the outlet terminal. Where fittings are used, the maximum length of the exhaust duct shall be reduced in accordance with Table M1502.4.4.1. The maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct.

  M1502.4.4.2 Manufacturer’s instructions.
  The size and maximum length of the exhaust duct shall be determined by the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. The code official shall be provided with a copy of the installation instructions for the make and model of the dryer at the concealment inspection. In the absence of fitting equivalent length calculations from the clothes dryer manufacturer, Table M1502.4.4.1 shall be used.

Just make sure you construct the duct with rigid metal and you should be fine.

Moisture in a dryer vent (water) may be caused by a blockage due to lint - make sure the lint trap is clean and using a rigid duct would allow air to flow more freely.


In your position, I'd try a fine toothed blade in a table saw for cutting the vinyl planks. As long as the material keeps moving past the blade, I wouldn't expect a problematic amount of melting/gumming.


Pound a 2' - 3' pressure treated 2x4 into the ground, so that about 12" to 18" is above ground (cutting an angle in the end going into the ground, will help it go in better).
Mount a weatherproof 1-gang electrical box on the 2x4.
Pull the wiring into the box, using the appropriate clamp/bushing.
Secure the wiring to the 2x4 below the box, using an appropriate means.
Cap the wires off using weatherproof twist-on wire connectors.
Cover the box with a weatherproof blank cover.


Harbor Breeze Ceiling fan lights flash after being on for about 10 minutes or so

Try changing one of the lamps back to incandescent. Some lamp controllers require a steady drain, and as the LED's or controller aged, it may have gotten more finicky. A low-wattage lamp should be fine, though it does reduce efficiency slightly.


If a living quarter is built in a basement, is 5/8 drywall required on that ceiling?

5/8" drywall is rarely required in single-family residences. It was used historically because ceiling joists are often 24" on center, and 5/8 resists sag.

You can certainly use no-sag 1/2" if you like. If your joists are 16" on center, standard half inch may be fine, by I don't know why you'd risk it for the minimal upcharge.

A fire-rated door is also probably not required. If this is a rental situation, check with your local building authority on both counts.


Is it easier to paint straight lines with a smaller brush?

Possibly. However...

I would think a 2.5" brush gives you better control, because a thinner brush can result in a more wavy line. With a larger brush, the "waviness" is controlled a little better.

And, a smaller brush can only hold so much paint, and you'll end up with more stops and starts due to very nature of the thing. That can introduce some more imperfection in the process.

Also, you'll end up holding the brush for much longer, and if you're anything like me who can't hold a pencil for longer than five or ten minutes before needing to rest, the entire process will take much more time.

Of course, your mileage may vary.


Putting plastic on top when you cover with dirt will extend the life of the drain. This can be verified by looking at how to design a French drain--if you prevent the dirt from settling in the rock the drain will last much longer. Your gray water drain is a French drain.


Yes you can.  I have three instances in my house:  all were signed off by a competent electrical inspector.   (I am in the Portland, Oregon area.)

There is one in a bathroom closet, and one each in two medicine cabinets.  Handy for recharging a cordless vacuum, electric toothbrushes, and an electric shaver.


how to blackout a large bedroom window on a budget?

A sheet of cardboard cut to fit the window frame tightly.  With a small finger hole or notch cut out so you can pull it out easily.  Thick cardboard would be best so it doesnt bend.

Practically free, blocks all light, does no damage, and can easily be removed in the morning and put back in at night.


Do garage door springs LOSE their "spring"?

No, they don't measurably stretch.  The reason is that, by design, the springs are not extended beyond their elastic limit at any point in the open/close cycle.  The amount of "annealing" that takes place over your lifetime is too small to worry about -- or measure.


Fixing the connection on ACCOR PUSHON® R-SERIES Supply Stop Valve

The "tube that connects the connector and the pushon valve" in your picture looks like soft clear vinyl tubing; if it is, that was the cause of the failure.

Your valve has a compression type connection:

and is designed for tubing (copper or poly/plastic) that is fairly rigid rather than soft. The connection utilizes a ferrule:

which I do not see any sign or mention of in your pictures or question. You will likely need to replace that short piece of tubing with a section of tubing that is compatible with both the connector and the valve's compression fitting, like poly tubing:


Slightly contrarian take: start over.
(I know, you've done a bunch of work, etc. They call it the sunk-cost fallacy for a reason. Strong butt joints in the rail are possible but hard and would involve a ton of wood filler afterwards.)
Get another door. Rough cut next to the hinge stile (but not cutting off the molding on the stile). Extract the panels and cut them to size -- no difficult joining. Clean off the dregs of the rails beside the stile. Cut your rails to an appropriate width and use whatever joinery seems best. (You'll probably need to do a bit of chisel work to flatten out the molding where the butt of the rail meets the stile.) I'd biscuit for alignment, then after glue-up is dry, sink 8-10" structural screws (2 or 3 per rail). 1/2" dowels would be good as well, as long as you were drilling the holes for them when the door was glued up and flat. Trying to drill two sides of the dowel separately is a recipe for frustration and alignment disaster.
--- Edit ---
Here's a series of pics that show what I'm talking about above.

Starting point. Sorry about the rotation.

Rough cut the rail. Don't cut any of the molding on the stile.

Mark where the rail copes over the molding on the stile. You'll cut that part of the stile later.

The molding on the stile runs all the way through under the coped rail. Somehow, chip/cut away the remaining rail.

You can do part of it with a chopsaw (granted, awkward with an 82" stile and impossible for the midrail), but don't cut past your pencil line. You'll inevitably be left with some wood that the chopsaw won't touch, so chisel/ multitool/ whatever to clean that flat.

Cut the miter that you marked with the pencil earlier on the stile molding. (Don't do what I did and bust off some of the molding while demolishing the remainder of the rail.)

Cut the rail to width and miter the molding.

Your parts should go together perfectly. Join them as described above.


Is there a cost efficient way to add windows to a brick house?

There are really two options:

Remove the bricks in the area of the new windows and re-set them (after cutting those that need to be cut) back in the right format to give you the needed window opening.
Using a masonry saw (these are easily rentable) cut out a new rough opening for your new windows, set the windows, and then trim around them.

I'd probably do #2 but either will work.


Installing LED compatible dimmer switch (wiring question)

You bought the wrong dimmer -- time to return it and get something that's compatible with your application instead

Your dimmers are designed for ELV (Electronic Low Voltage) lighting transformer loads, which means they use something called reverse-phase dimming. In other words, they start the waveform at the zero-crossing then turn off in the middle of the half-cycle to control the power to the load, unlike regular dimmers, which control the turn-on point within the half-cycle and then turn off at the zero crossing point.

However, this means that your ELV dimmers need a reference to the mains neutral to work, which is something your box lacks.  Whoops!  So, you'll want to take these dimmers back and swap them for something else instead: a DVSCCL-253P should make an acceptable enough substitute given the constraints placed upon you (namely, the lack of a neutral), provided you're working with LED bulbs and not integrated fixtures.

Or, if you really need an ELV/reverse phase dimmer...

If you really need to use the existing dimmers, you can pull a /4 cable instead of the /3 (match the wire gauge of the existing cable) and use black for the always-hot, white for the neutral, and red and blue for the two dimmed hot legs.  That will put you in a good place for any future smartening you wish to do to these switches as well, too.


There is no GFCI outlet in my basement, and circuit breaker reset won't work

If the entire circuit is on one breaker, the problem is not likely to be at the panel. I can imagine two possibilities:

A connection at an outlet is loose and failing. Take a guess at which outlet is the last working one upstream of the problem. With the breaker switched off, open the box and check the connections.
Damage to the wiring has occurred due to rodents, impact, corrosion, etc. This might be more difficult to diagnose if the walls are finished. You might use continuity testing to check the individual conductors. Again, switch off the breaker first.

A third less likely possibility is that there are two "home runs" connected at the breaker, and one has come loose. If that was the case, however, you'd probably see intermittent failure of the rest of the circuit as well.


Can I have a junction box AFTER a GFCI outlet and retain the GFCI protection on each branch?

Yes, you can. Electrically that's no different than having a series of outlets on a single run after a GFCI. Everything is wired in parallel regardless.


A box can penetrate any material, not just 1/2" drywall.
For non-flammable surfaces you can have the box set back up to 1/4". Ultimately though you want to be flush with the surface.
For flammable surfaces you must be flush with the finished surface.
This is borrowed from a post by @tester101:

ARTICLE 314
Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes;
Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures
314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material,
boxes employing a ﬂush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so
that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or
listed extender will not be set back of the ﬁnished surface more than
6 mm (1⁄4 in.). In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other
combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings,
or listed extenders shall be ﬂush with the ﬁnished surface or project
therefrom.

This might also be relevant.

406.4 Receptacle Mounting. Receptacles shall be mounted in boxes or assemblies designed for the purpose, and such boxes or assemblies
shall be securely fastened in place unless otherwise permitted
elsewhere in this Code.
(A) Boxes That Are Set Back. Receptacles mounted in boxes that are set back from the finished surface as permitted in 314.20 shall be
installed such that the mounting yoke or strap of the receptacle is
held rigidly at the finished surface.


Why I feel stuffy when my dryer is running?

Looking at the this parts digram, this model appears to be a combination washer dryer with an electric dryer, so it's not likely to be carbon monoxide.    Possibly the dryer is not correctly vented to the outside, so it is pumping warm moist air into your house.   First, make sure the lint trap on the dryer (in a slot at the bottom of the door opening) is clean.    If the dryer is vented to the outside (you should see a vent on the outside of the house near the dryer), the vent pipe may be blocked.   If it's not vented to the outside, you may want to check with your landlord to have that corrected.


What can I do about roofing and framing nail 'shiners' under eaves?

Use an end nipper to cut them flush:

Brand name on image included deliberately as this is an endorsement because quality products give better performance.


How effective are angle-grinder wood discs for removing material?

I really think a belt sander would do a nicer job than an angle grinder. You could use a small handheld model with 40 or 60 grit belts, or rent a larger one used to refinish hardwood floors if you need to do larger areas.


Does Chicago building code allow open ceiling joists in a finished basement?

Most 1 and 2 family units are non-rated construction. Triplexes (3 living units) and up require fire sprinklers, fire party walls, etc. (See ICC Chapter 3)

There are exceptions where the structure is built within the “setbacks” and the walls and portions of the floor, ceilings, roofs require fire rated construction.

In your case, due to the proximity of the 3 units to each other, I’d guess you’d need fire walls (and doors, openings, etc.) between units, but not ceilings.

If you have a Building Permit, I’d call your Building Department and give them your Permit number and ask if ceilings are required. They are there to help and don’t want a redo either.


How do I make our toilet flush less vigorously?

For adjusting the water level in the fill tank, all of the toilets I've come across are adjustable, there is no need to put something in the tank to offset the volume.

There will be a float of some sort that is attached to a valve.  To have less water fill the tank, you want to adjust the float to sit lower in the tank, thus less water is needed to push the valve closed.

For the two fill mechanisms I'm familiar with:

For the float arm style there is either an adjustment screw or you can bend the arm.
For the newer float on the pipe style, see here. Again, simply the attachment between the float and the top should have an adjustment, move the float lower in the tank so that a lower amount of water pushes the valve closed.


Best foam for copper wiring insulation in split-unit A/C?

The neoprene foam is what I use on the line set , it is easier to shape and a small tube of neoprene glue you can make custom sizes quite easily. The foam stuff is cheap but hard to shape.


Framing a window directly through a post in post-and-beam construction?

Removing the vertical post and finding some other way of supporting the roof beam will be complicated, specially since there is very little space between the window top and where the roof beam enters the wall. This is where you would need to insert a cross beam or similar to support the load from the roof. Needless to say, it will not be pretty and would probably still block a large part of your existing window.

Alternatively, you could consider moving the window. There seems to be sufficient space to the left of the photo. Although it would be a bit more work, no structural elements will be compromized, and most of the covering materials taken off to make space for the window could be re-used to fill up the gap on the other side.


Can I share a dryer vent with a portable A/C unit?

It's generally a bad idea to combine exhaust vents. You'll end up with backflow one way or the other, or you'll inadvertently block a working vent when you forget to flip a diverter or set dampers correctly. It could result in a dangerous situation with the dryer.


Where would I install a bonding screw in this panel?

You should be good to go already

According to the diagram on the labels inside the cabinet proper, the furthest-right screw position on the neutral intertie bar is where the bonding screw goes, and it appears to be already populated in your photos, as it should be.


Repair power cord with heat shrink tubing without cutting or disconnecting cord

I'm not aware of any shrink tubing that will shrink that much and still insulate the wires. If the damage to the wires is such that you will need to use shrink tube for an individual wire that might be reason enough to cut through the cord at the damaged point. If the damage is near the male or female end consider lopping off the plug closest to it and replace with a repair plug. I have used a product called "liquid tape". It is sold specifically to be used for re-insulating wire sections. Once the damaged wire is soldered you brush the "tape" on. It dries within a few minutes to a flexible and tough coat. Here's da link:  https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=liquid+tape&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aliquid+tape


How do I remove mildew from walls and ceilings?

Fill a spray bottle with one part bleach, 9 parts water.  Wear gloves and then spray the walls with the solution, let sit for a minute and then wipe with the sponge.


How to quantify the difference in power of tablesaw motor rewired to 240 vs 120 volts

I don't know who is saying those comments or in what context they are saying, but I don't agree.  If the motor is actually designed to be jumpered between 240V and 120V, then it should perform the same in either configuration.

Induction motors of this type have an entirely passive rotor, so no brushes.  The only windings are in the non-moving fields, so it is practicable to switch them. How it's done is to wind the fields with 2 wires half the cross-section.  For 120V, those wires are connected in parallel. For 240V, in series.  The same amount of current flows through each wire in either configuration, so motor performance is the same, and temperature will be the same.

If you are abusing a motor that is not manufactured to be switchable, then all bets are off.  Or if you are dealing with a brushed or shaded-pole motor on a smaller appliance, the rules can change, but that is not OP's question.


18 gauge trim gun nails don't take well to nail sets, especially when they protrude that far. They bend too easily and you'll find yourself with more damage to the wood.

Grab them with a needle-nose pliers and bend them back and forth a few times. They'll break off. If you do this well they'll break below the surface and you can putty the holes. If not, now use a nail set to push the resulting stub in, then putty.

If you're looking for a stabilizing repair, I'd drill 3/8" horizontal holes 3/4" deep about 1" up from the bottom on one or more sides. I'd then pilot inside those holes for trim screws at a steep downward angle, into the floor. I'd then glue in 3/8" wood buttons to cap the larger holes. You could also use flush plugs.


Are there any legitimate concerns about tandem breakers?

Edit: THIS.  Over-full panels invite problems!
Go look at this situation and the poster's proposed solution.  This person wants to add a subpanel. What they really want is a 125A subpanel, which should be easy.  But they're willing to settle for a 50A subpanel since they feel forced into using a double-stuff breaker, and they're very comfortable using a 30/50 quad; they're mentally married to that solution. But look closer.  Look what breaker will be opposite the 30/50.  Yeah, a 40/40.  So you'll have 160A of load sharing a single bus stab.
And nobody thought anything of this. See how easy that mistake is to make? Notice how a career electrician also missed it - heck, everybody missed it!
A problem like this is extremely rare in a normal panel, because 80A+ breakers are "black swans" - they exist, but you sure know when you're working with one, and so you tend to watch out... and you rarely have two. And they don't sneak up on you.
So that's essentially a UX argument, but that's a real thing in the real world. Armwave all you like about how the world would be if everyone was careful... they aren't.
That's a UX case, but UX cases are why we handle-tie MWBCs, pigtail neutral, use white for always-hot on switch loops, etc. etc.  A huge portion of total NEC code is dedicated to UX factors like that.
They're awesome in 2003 or in a FEMA trailer
Because then, you do not need AFCI or GFCI on anything.
But if you provisioned your panel counting on 2 circuits per space, and you then are required to AFCI or GFCI some of those circuits, you'll be gobbling up spaces at twice your expected rate. AFCI/GFCI don't come in double-stuff form factors.
Other emerging technologies won't fit either
Nobody knows what's coming, but I can think of two right now.

Leviton has a new panel in the marketplace that has integrated power monitoring a-la the Sense home energy monitor.  There is a hub built into the panel and smart breakers in each slot.  If that takes off, all the panel makers will do it.  That kind of thing is usually not offered in double-stuff.

As we get more into alternative power that is non-dispatchable, we will want to get more into the "smart grid" tech where the power company can suspend your water heater temporarily instead of spinning up a fuel generator to power it.  That will be most easily implemented as breakers, and again, not gonna happen in double-stuff.

That last one is already implemented (the brawn part, anyway) in Eaton BRRP or CLRP remote control breakers.  All it needs is the electronics to talk to the grid and command the breaker on/off.  But one brain could control any number of BRRP/CLRP breakers.
You have more trouble with stab limits
Most panels have "stab limits" limiting all the breakers sharing a bus stab to X amps.  Double-stuff breakers cram 4 poles on a stab instead of 2, so they are much more likely to run into stab limit problems.   Recently I saw a 50/30 opposite a 30/30, so 140A on those stabs.  Stab limits were 125A.


What is the Correct Hot Water Expansion Tank Pressure

I realized as I was reading through the B&G design guide above what I think the answer is. The 12 PSI is necessary for a two story building on a closed loop hydronic system. Most household boilers are limited to 30 psi before the pressure relief valve will open. So if that system were sized for the 60ish psi, you can probably imagine that there would be some issues. An expansion tank for a hot water system, on the other hand, WOULD be charged to the line pressure since it is directly connected to the incoming cold water line.


How do I connect braided under sink hose to 3/8 inch RO plastic tubing?

you need whats called a braided hose adaptor.  see pic attached.


Can I connect a combination heater/fan unit to the existing bathroom wiring?

In this case, it looks like you'll have to run a new 20A circuit.  As per Article 110.3(B) of the National Electrical Code (NEC), and the manufacturers instructions.

NEC 2008
110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment.
(B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the
listing or labeling.

On page 5 of the manufacturers installation manual (PDF), it clearly states that you must use a 20A circuit.


Will emergency heat hurt my heat pump during defrosting?

Emergency heat comes from heat coils in the air mover on your system. It should be fine but your electric bill will be higher because of the high amperage they draw compared to the heat pump.


How to keep plastic concrete screw anchors from spinning?

Since you mention these come with floor safes, I'm going to guess that you're using these to anchor something.. a safe, perhaps.. to the floor. I'll also guess that the objective in anchoring the safe to the floor is to prevent the safe being lifted and carried away.
These plastic anchors seem like they're semi-acceptable for a shear application such as something low-profile mounted to a wall. The only force the anchor experiences is the downward pull of gravity.
For an application where pull-out strength is required, like a safe containing valuables mounted to a floor to deter the safe from sprouting legs and walking away, the anchors made of relatively slick plastic just aren't a great solution.
This reminds me of an anecdote I heard an uncle tell when I was a kid. He shared a lengthy process for reconstituting powdered milk so that it would taste good and not turn out lumpy. The process culminated with "dump it down the drain, go to the store, and buy a bottle of fresh milk."
A better solution for your situation is to recognize that the safe includes cheap hardware and it's OK for you to discard that and use something better, especially since it sounds like you do this often.
As for "what's better, then?" It's infrequent that I need to anchor something in concrete, but following are a few anchors I've liked (credit for all photos to www.confast.com). They're available in a variety of sizes; the sizes pictured here are just what Confast had on their home page at the moment.
ITW Tap-Con
This product screws directly into a pre-drilled hole. Not much help for your current situation, but maybe useful for next time. Removable, at least in theory.

Wedge anchor
The cone-shaped end forces the collar outward against the concrete. Easy to cinch something down tight against the face of the concrete. Permanent. Instead of eventual removal, these can be hidden in two ways. Plan ahead and drill the hole extra deep so that the anchor can be driven fully into the concrete later when it is longer wanted (be careful not to lose the anchor into the hole during installation!) or else plan on cutting off the protruding portion.

Drop-in anchor
The anchor itself is permanent, but it accepts a machine threaded screw/bolt which can be removed. If I remember correctly the bolt can pass all the way through the anchor. The anchor's expansion is fairly well-bounded so it's important that the hole be the right size.

Double expansion anchor
Also available in a single-expansion version. Similar in function to the drop-in, but expands along the whole length of the anchor (and, I think, more forgiving as far as the hole diameter is concerned). It's been a while since I used one of these, but I think the bolt passes freely through one end of the anchor and threads into the far end. As the bolt is tightened the top end of the anchor is drawn up against the object being anchored. Eventually the pinch between the object and the far end of the anchor, caused by tightening the bolt makes the two wedge bits spread and bite into the walls of the hole.


Go with 1-wire per hole and get a 2-hole lug, the cost is too minimal not to do it right. This is especially true in your case with 2-different gauges of wire, your situation is not the 2nd picture (using 2 of the same gauge wire). Meaning, differing gauges must have dedicated mountings to be solid and secure.


Need help with wiring a combination two way switch

You need to return the switch you got and get a single-pole/3-way combination switch instead of a single-pole/single-pole
Your existing combination switch has a normal single pole switch on the top and a 3-way (two location) switch on the bottom, while it sounds like your new switch consists of two single pole switches, which won't help you with your garage light very much.  So, as you are suspecting, you'll need to take it back and get the correct thing; fortunately, it shouldn't be that much harder to find.
As to how this was wired
The good news is that we can identify the functions of the old wires from here.  Clearly, since the black wire on the left is shared between both halves of the old switch, it must be the always-hot feed in.  From the terminal screws on the right,  the top one is connected to the black switched-hot for the light controlled by the top (single-pole) switch, while the bottom two screws connect to the black and red wires that serve as the travellers to the garage light.
You'll need to remember what these wires do, though, since the positions of the screws on the new switch isn't going to help you any, only the fact that the common screws on said replacement will be a different color.  Also note that NEC 404.9(B) permits snap switches to be grounded by their screws, so don't worry about running a grounding pigtail to your switch.


Is there code that states there must be a sheet of plastic between vinyl siding and the house sheathing?

Yes. What he was talking about was the "water-resistive barrier." (WRB) This is typically Tyvek housewrap (a kind of vapor-permeable plastic) or grade D building paper (tar-soaked paper). All wood-framed buildings need one of these, or else any water that penetrates the siding can contact the sheathing, and will quickly rot it out and infiltrate inside. All buildings in jurisdictions covered by a building code are legally bound by this requirement.

If your condo building was re-sided by somebody who removed the WRB and did not put another one, you have an emergency situation on your hands. You need to IMMEDIATELY have someone remove the vinyl siding, replace any water-damaged sheathing, studs, and drywall, and install a proper WRB behind new siding. This is not optional. If you fail to do this, the building could be rendered structurally unsound and effectively uninhabitable due to mold; the aforementioned building materials are highly vulnerable to water. It will cause them to grow mold, become soft, and get eaten by termites.

Another possibility, because the residents say the water is coming in at the same place in each unit, is that the windows were not flashed properly--especially if that place is under any windows. This is a more common error than forgetting the WRB entirely but no less important to fix in a climate where it rains. The solution to this problem would be to make sure the wall's WRB is properly integrated into the windows' nailing flanges. A common error is not lapping the WRB over the top flange, but rather nailing the flange over the WRB--which allows any water flowing down the WRB above the window to get behind the window's flange and into the wall. Needless to say, if there is no WRB at all, the windows are by definition improperly flashed, and could easily be the water infiltration points.

It is highly likely that you have an actionable legal case against the company that installed the vinyl siding if either of these defects can be proven. Unfortunately, any company that will make such galling errors is unlikely to be well-insured.


Repair a table after an accident with a candle

This table top can be sanded down to fresh wood surface to accept a new finish. That is unless the burn mark is quite deep. Sanding out a deep burn mark could end up leaving a depression in that part of the table surface unless you would aggressively sand most the rest of the surface the same amount.

Refinishing to still show the wood grain as present would not mean painting the surface. Instead it would mean some type of natural oil type finish to attain the current look. After careful sanding down to a smooth surface an oil finish can be installed simply by wiping it on and then buffing it out. Such finish would want to be renewed from time to time.

Any type of more durable finish would leave a glossy surface such as would come with something like a polyurethane finish.


What is the proper preparation to re-apply silicone caulk?

By all means, use denatured or isopropyl alcohol to remove all mineral spirits. Go over the entire area a few times with the alcohol on a clean micro fiber cloth, turning the cloth each time to be sure no spirits are being reintroduced to the surface. The surface should be squeaky clean.


My new drywall patch is thinner than the old one? Why?

Pro installers  will install drywall over irregular framing, which can give the impression of thicker sheets.

Drywall can be skimcoated with setting joint compound.  This can be as thick as 1/4 inch, in some cases.  Originally, the skim was done with plaster

In any case, you  should fill with a setting compound mixed a bit stiffly and taper out 12 inches for a invisible joint.


Rewiring light fixture and switch to bring neutral line to the switch: one 12/3 switch-leg vs two 12/2 wire to bring power to switch?

I think 1 is better by far.
You mention 12/2 in the text, but the diagram shows 14/2 for the proposed option 2. What is the breaker on this circuit? Will you replace the existing switch box with an old work? The switch loop might be stapled.


How can I add ventilation to my basement office?

Energy Recovery Ventilation (ERV)  You may want to consider either spot ERV or whole house ERV.

These devices both exhaust and intake fresh air, doing some energy exchange to reduce the impact on your air when the temperature differences between inside and outside are great.

Some ERV discussions here

As a spot unit, you could just run the unit in your office.  The Panasonic unit I've read about has automatic controls, but I would supplement them with a countdown timer to limit use even further as necessary.

Leviton 12 Hour countdown timer

The divided wall cap means only 1 penetration is needed and it incorporates a pre filter for the incoming air.

Declaration:  No financial interest in Panasonic or Leviton.  I have used (personally) and installed (for customers) Panasonic fans and Leviton switches.


How to remove shower drain piece (grip from inside)?

When I needed to replace the drain in my shower I was told to use this drain removal tool:

If that tool would work, there will be four cross bars in the bottom of the drain that the tool grips when inserted.  You take a screw driver or other rod and slip it through the holes on the side of tool to then turn it and remove the drain.

If the tool doesn't fit (which happened to me) an alternative is to superglue some scrap wood to the top of the drain as way to get leverage.  The down side is that method means replacing the drain rather than just putting it back.


Is it possible to put a resin shed on a slope in the garden?

It either should be dug in or supported on the low end or a little of both. You could perhaps let it slope a little if you have to, but it will not let the door or doors act properly after a while. Besides it would look pretty hokey, but that's just my opinion...(insert smiley face here)


I can probably give you some general advice on basements from step 1 to 1000 but let's stick to the water issue.

So you have a hill slamming into your house, you get water consistently during heavy spring rains but very minimal in the basement, and there has been little to no significant flooding over the lifetime of the house.

In my opinion you can do all or some of these things:

Regrade your yard.  The hill coming down is fine.  But you should have a good 6-7 feet near your house that is running away.  You will need to grade your house to a notch on that side.  I had to do this to my house and I went from having a pond in my yard a few times a year and minor water in basement, to nothing at all.  I did stack french drains in the notched area (so I dug a good 6 feet down there).  But again this is very cheap to do and the most important thing.  Keep water away from your house.
Dig a perimeter drain system (there are a lot of products that can help you do this) and have it feed to a sump pump.  This is still very much DIY (1 day with a jackhammer) and cost is relatively cheap.  However anytime you start tearing up your floor that has had no issues, you have more than 0% chance of having issues.  Given the details you have provided I might dig a sump pump at the most offending location but I don't think I would dig out the perimeter floor.
You can waterproof that side of your house.  This is certainly very costly.  Not a lot of downside to this other than it usually will set you back maybe 2-3k plus for just one side of your house.  Again I think you have a grading issue and if that is fixed I think waterproofing may be overkill.

I would not suggest any sort of interior waterproofing including paints.  Let your concrete breathe.  Also I would suggest your framing is a good 1-2" from concrete and that you only insulate the top part of the walls.  If there is minor moisture, giving it airflow will keep it from becoming an issue.  The other thing is go with flooring that is either waterproof (tile or pure vinyl click-lock) or carpet that you don't mind possibly replacing (if you know that water is there carpet is easy to roll out of the way).


As this is at the main it would be fine to have both your neutral and ground on the same buss. an RV “park” doesn’t require an additional grounding electrode NEC 551.75.b
However 1 out of 3 of the counties I work in requires a supplemental ground at the pedestal as this a residential hookup not a park.

Make sure to have your box 2 feet off the ground or more but not over 6’6”.


It doesn't matter.

As AC current alternates, the only difference between the two input cables is which is connected to ground (in your switchboard and/or at the supply transformer).

The only case where they need to be differentiated is when switching - you should not switch neutral, except in very few cases where you also switch phase.


How important is it to completely insulate bare wire in outlet?

When using back stabs it is important to use the strip gauge on the back of the outlet. When properly stripped the insulation is slightly supported by the device. If the copper is exposed the wires tend to break at the strip point even if the wire did not get nicked. If the wire was nicked when stripping it can break much sooner without support. With the power off there are usually small slots that another 14 gauge solid wire or a small screwdriver can be used to release the wire trim to the correct length and reinstall.


Can I run a #12 outlet branch and a #14 light branch off a 30A breaker?

If you really want that, you can use an MWBC
It sounds like you want to throw more than 20A into a room. That can be done.  But you really, really need to bone up on the particulars of Code, because this is easy to dangerously botch.
You can use a multi-wire branch circuit, which uses a /3 cable to provide 2 hots and a common neutral.  You are able to then fork this circuit, and either split it into two separate 120V circuits at its first stop, or carry it along for awhile as a dual circuit, serving each socket on alternating hot/neutrals.  (don't split sockets; that used to be clever, but it doesn't work with GFCI receptacles, USB, smart receptacles etc.  So you paint the next guy into a corner if you do that.)
The MWBC can be 15A with #14 wire, or 20A with #12 wire.  Dual 20A in a bedroom is certainly going to take care of both the high-end gaming PC and the window A/C unit you'll need to remove the heat. Dual 15A is a cheap way to get that 30A.
There are some special rules for MWBC.

Must be a 2-pole breaker (or handle-tied breaker configured as a 2-pole, to guarantee opposite poles: 240V between the hots).  240V between hots is a good thing and vitally important to not overloading the shared neutral.
Neutral wires must be pigtailed at each outlet or switch, anywhere both sides are present -- you cannot use a device as a splice because if you removed the device, you'd sever neutral.   Like using the 2 screws on a receptacle; that's right out.

Now, the 2-pole breaker requirement may have a funny intersection with Code.  Nevada is the lone holdout still on 2011 NEC, probably because they don't like the "GFCI/AFCI on darn near everything" requirements of 2014 NEC.  So here you go

210.12 Arc-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection.
(A) Dwelling Units. All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms,           sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter [AFCI breaker], combination-type, installed to provide protection of the branch circuit.

I pulled this off a forum post from 9/21/11, so I definitely didn't give  you NEC 2014 by mistake.
So this requires a 2-pole breaker that is also AFCI, or some panel makers implement this as two handle-tied* breakers which are AFCI.
I hate stiff wire
If you don't mind some light pipefitting, there's a cure for that.  It's called EMT conduit.  Outside of a special bender, all you need is a hacksaw and some patience.  Then you get to run individual wires (which are individually not nearly as stiff) -- and you also get to use stranded wire, which is not stiff at all, and a sheer pleasure to use. It's difficult to attach to screws, but simply pigtail those with solid wire - easy.
You can transition from Romex to EMT at any junction box.  Simply enter the Romex into the junction box with a listed cable clamp, and splice it onto the EMT wires.
By literal Code, if the run between the service panel and the first outlet is metal conduit, you can use AFCI receptacles which are much cheaper than AFCI breakers.  From there you can use /2 Romex.  Because it's MWBC, you'd want a 2-gang junction box and put both AFCIs there.  (I recommend a 4-11/16" square box with an offset mud-ring, since it has enough space for AFCI/GFCI, and the right face to mount AFCI/GFCI devices).

210.12(A) Exception No. 1: If RMC, IMC, EMT, Type MC, or steel armored Type AC cables meeting the requirements of 250.118 and metal outlet and junction boxes are installed for the portion of the branch circuit between the branch circuit overcurrent device and the first outlet, it shall be permitted to install an outlet branch-circuit type AFCI at the first outlet to provide protection for the remaining portion of the branch circuit.

Oh, but I really want to run 30A+
Subpanel.  You run the feed size of your choice to a subpanel (in an allowable location), then branch off all the 15A/#14 circuits you please.

* Literally, it says that a pair of breakers with handle-ties listed by the manufacturer will also suffice, but you must make sure this puts the breakers' outputs on opposite poles so there is 240V between the hots.
By the way, a 2-pole breaker is much more than two 1-poles with a factory assembled handle tie.  It also has an internal mechanism to ensure common trip.  That is not required for MWBCs.


How should I investigate an exterior leak from bathroom shower use?

You can do some investigation without opening up a wall:

(1) Fill up a  2-gal bucket at some other faucet in the house or outside. Pour this into the shower and then look for the water leak you've been seeing. If you see the leak, then the leak is in the shower pan or the drain.

(2) Run the shower into the bucket so as to catch all the water and none goes down the drain. If you see the leak, then the leak is in the water supply past the shower valve.

EDIT It might take more than 2 gal to get the leak to show. You might have to use two 2-gal buckets.


How can I heat a hole in my pond efficiently in the winter without using a pond heater?

The only way to be "more efficient" than a resistive heater is to use a heat pump, and the upfront cost will probably make that a non-starter. Resistive heat is 100% efficient, a heat pump can be 300% efficient. Either way, you are fighting the weather and it takes a lot of energy.

Getting a big horse watering trough (or, given the size of your pond, a small watering trough, or an actual aquarium) and moving the fish into the basement (or perhaps living room, etc. with the aquarium option) for the winter will be far less costly than melting ice all winter.


Pipe in ceiling behind old light fixture

In the early 1900's many houses used natural gas for lighting. Around pittsburgh, Pa. most old houses were piped for this natural gas lighting. Usually by now all that old piping has been disconnected. Find the source of the connection to the gas lighting, disconnect and cap/plug the piping. The house I lived in until I left for the Navy, had this piping that was removed from the gas supply and made safe.


Any common construction or project adhesive. That said, drywall nails are fairly thin for just that reason. If it's large enough that you're installing a patch, a nail won't destroy the patch.

And that said, it's often the easiest solution to simply enlarge the patch to something suitable for repair, say 6" x 6". Float some one-by lumber or plywood scraps for backing and be happy.


Well pump stops working after 30 minutes

If the lever you are referring to is on the side of your pressure switch:

Then I unfortunately have not very good news for you. As the name implies, this cuts off the switch entirely when the pressure drops to about 10psi below the cut-in point (eg, most well pumps are set up to turn on at 40 and off at 60psi, so the low-pressure point is about 30psi). It's there to prevent the pump from running dry.

Potential cause: low-yield well

Without any other information, my best guess would be your well is not producing enough water to keep up with demand. This seems to be consistent with your statement that it only happens after 30-45 minutes: there is enough reserve capacity in the well itself to supply you for a while, but ultimately, the rate of water entering the well is lower than the rate you're using water.

The ultimate fix for this is to install a cistern or holding tank that the well pump supplies, and have a second pump in that that actually supplies the house. The cistern is controlled via float (instead of pressure switch) and the well pump is protected by a load-monitoring device (eg: Pumptec by Franklin-Electric) that turns off the pump electronically if it senses no-load. The size of the tank largely depends on how much capacity you want, what the actual yield of the well is, and logically where the tank will go and how big you can fit. Commonly, the cistern is a large cylindrical PVC tank installed in the basement.

Potential cause: undersized pump

The other main cause would be an undersized or under-performing pump that is unable to keep up with demand. The symptom of this would be that the pump runs constantly during use, rather than cycling on and off, and that you generally have a consistently low pressure for that time prior to the low-pressure switch cutting out.

Replacing the pump in this case may help, but if you have a low-yield well then it's a waste of money. Considering it's been happening for 14 years, it seems unlikely this would be something mechanically wrong (I'd expect the condition to worsen over time, or for the pump to have failed by now) and more likely that the pump was undersized, IF you also have the symptoms I described.

What next?

If you can determine the pump is undersized, then replacing it with a larger pump would be one way to remedy the problem (assuming there is no yield problem also).

The next best course of action would probably be be to test the yield of the well. You may be able to do this yourself, but a professional will bring in a much larger pump and test the flow right at the well, bypassing all the pressure controls and inside piping that would interfere with the results.

Of course, seeing as you're selling the house, you'll have to make your on judgement call on what you do or disclose -- advice on that is beyond the scope of this site.


Is there a "safe" sub-floor leveling compound?

wood subfloor? can you cut out the bad sections and replace it with new plywood?

if you do this, i would recommend installing some 2x4's underneath the section you cut out, perpendicular to the stringers. install them so they cover the joint between the old and new subfloor. depending on the size of the patch, you might also want to support it somewhere in the middle. and then also install 2x4's along the edges of the patch parallel to the stringers.

below is a drawing that show's what i'm talking about. it's a bottom-up view of the subfloor. the part you're cutting out is in red, and the 2x4's you're installing are in green. i did not draw in the parallel 2x4's i recommended above.


vanity separated from shower by doorway and toilet

Water supply pipes on an exterior wall have a greater chance of freezing.

We do this all the time where I live, but we make sure the building insulation is on the exterior side of the water supply lines. Make sure the bottom and top of the insulation batts are turned so as to keep cold air from seeping into the cavity.

You’re not moving the lav that far, so venting, pressure drop, etc. is not an issue.


Lights not working after replacing blown light bulb

Look for GFI outlets and reset them.

Confirm the switch is functioning and confirm there is power to the switch.

Check for power at the dimmer in the loop, it may have been damaged.


Suggestions for HDMI/aerial/audio socket

There are wall plates that are designed for your situation.

Power

For power, you can add the socket as you described.

Low voltage

For HDMI/signal/etc low voltage stuff, there are a number of options.  Running conduit is the best for future flexibility.

I personally like just having a cable sticking out of the wall, rather than putting connectors behind the TV and requiring a bunch of short patch cables.  There's "flexible opening wall plates" that have rubber grommets in them that work very well for this purpose. These work very well with a low-voltage junction box (which basically is a junction box with no back)

You can terminate the cables near your equipment the same way, or install actual wall plates, depending on your needs. I prefer wall plates with jacks (built-in or keystone) for that situation, because it's neater and allows you to easily disconnect stuff while cleaning/moving/whatever without a bunch of cables hanging out of the wall.

Combined

There are also a number of products that combine both power and low-voltage that work really well behind a TV.


Ducts shouldn't be held (or even sealed) with tape. That's an obsolete technique. For a quick repair, you might find that aluminum foil tape is robust enough to hold. Otherwise, clean the duct surface and use clear 100% silicone. Give it at least 4 hours to cure. 8-12 would be better. Note that silicone isn't paintable, so if you need that you might consider urethane caulk.

Really, an in-duct damper at the split to each room is best. You may need to get a tinbender involved, as special tools and techniques are sometimes required.

Finally, consider switching the occupants of the rooms. Sometimes the best solution is the simplest one.


How do I remove the front panel of my refrigerator to replace the water line?

To replace the water line, you need to remove the entire door - the water line from the dispenser runs through it.

The water line from the dispenser is one continuous piece through the door. By disconnecting it at the dispenser, you can pull it out the bottom of the door.


2' is not very deep for a gate post. I would check that with an expert who understands your ground conditions.
You only need to move one end of the post at a time, so you only need to lift half its weight.
If you pay for delivery of the posts the delivery truck will probably have a crane on it and can drop them into the holes for you.


Will a To-5 kickstart cap for 1 to 3 ton units possibly be able to help a 4 ton unit compressor start at all? Ri

You need to call an HVAC company to have that A/C unit serviced. It sounds as if the compressor may need attention, the existing capacitors are in need of replacing, or the unit has been grossly overcharged. Any of the above could cause the condition that you mention. Do not add any "starting kit" until the unit has been serviced by a competent service company. If there is a problem with the unit you cannot fix it by adding a kickstart capacitor.


Can a new ceiling be build directly onto an old one

Adding a new drywall ceiling over an old bad, but solid surface is very common.  Looking at your question, the only part of your plan I question is the use of 2X4 strapping.

I understand the need to add some extra insulation, however sandwiching it between the two layers of ceiling may not be the best idea. I'd rather you consider installing the extra insulation over the top of the old ceiling. Blow in some cellulose or roll some fiberglass batts would be a good option. There are a couple of reasons.

First; using 2X4's will lower your ceiling height an extra 3 1/2 inches if they are installed vertically to create a 3 1/2 gap for insulation. You may find it very difficult to level and attach them. You would have to use very long screws.

Second; although I don't think it would be a moisture trap for normal migration, it would be a horror show if for any reason you had a leak from above. Any water that would penetrate the ceiling would be absorbed in the middle insulation and probably foster mold and extensive water staining of your new ceiling. This situation would be impossible to fix without tearing out sections of your new ceiling.

This is the way we usually install a new drywall coat:

Secure any loose areas of plaster with screws or remove them.

Determine the lowest point of the ceiling. This will be the reference point for the rest of the ceiling. I use a laser and a tape measure to find the low spot and mark a reference line on the walls 2 inches below that point. You could rent a laser or buy a basic 360 degree model for around $70. The old fashion way is to use a water level or run very taught level strings.

Using 2 1/2" X 3/4" strapping, run them perpendicular to the ceiling joists at 16" on center. Shim these using tapered shingles or small wood shims to the 2" reference. (Again using your laser and tape measure) Nail these into the joists. I use 2 1/2 inch threaded nails in my framing nailer. Fill in around the parameter of the room with strapping. This procedure will give you a nice flat, secure and level grid to install your new drywall on.

Don't forget to install extension boxes for any electrical fixtures.


The two 22-1/2° elbows should have been in your horizontal run, moving the trap underneath and in line with the sink tailpiece. The tailpiece should remain straight. I'm not sure if this violates code, but it's unlikely to be a problem.

The length of your horizontal arm is fine. I don't know the code there, either, but it's not out of the ordinary. The maximum length partially depends on slope, and you don't run into any issues at 17".


How to fix a toilet that no longer swooshes when it is finished flushing?

Definitely, snake the toilet to confirm he didn't flush something bad or leave his rag in that was used to plug sewer gases out until his work was done. Some guys shove their rag in & out of sight to then forget about it.

Depending on the setup the shower could have cleared the rag from the shower & right into the toilet elbow. If you do hit something mushy with the toilet snake immediately or in a couple or few feet, then it's likely his rag. If it's not in the toilet itself, then the toilet has to be removed in order to retrieve it...So it doesn't get caught somewhere else where it can't be removed easily.

If you aren't comfortable with that &/or don't have a new toilet seal on hand, then absolutely get him back ASAP to fix whatever he did.


Can ductless air conditioning+heat pumps work well on floors that have doors closed?

With the doors closed and no evaporator in the room how is the cooling going to get into the room. In short it will not work with natural flow and the doors closed. On my 1930's home we have a 3 zone currently. The living room and the kitchen/ dining and the the master each have a unit. The other 2 bed rooms only get cooling / heat when the doors are open but since these only get used when relatives or grand kids are here we have not put a second unit in. I may add a second unit on the other side of the house for the 2 bedrooms and a small office but at this point it is not needed because we heated with wood for so many years we are used to having our doors open and that saves because we still use partial wood most of the winter as I am getting lazy LOL.


In theory that is a legitimate option. The usual problem though is there is insulation behind the blocking that would obstruct any air flow. Retrofitting the necessary baffles to allow air to get past gets to be a lot of work and makes the cold spots at the eave even colder.

It sounds like you may have adequate ventilation except for the lack of benefit from the stack effect by having high and low vents. This of course is a good thing to strive for, but I'm questioning if it's really worth it if the existing vents are ample. Even if not, adding additional ventilation where it's easier may be a reasonable compromise to the ideal high/low configuration.


You can look up NEC at NFPA.org-  free registration required.

Comments in parens are my rewording.

334.10 Uses Permitted
Type NM ('Romex')....shall be permitted in 1 and 2 family dwellings, and multifamily dwellings of types III, IV and V construction
(and other buildings, but must be concealed)

A "For both exposed and concealed work in normally dry locations" (except buildings other than 1 and 2 family dwellings, and multifamily dwellings of types III, IV and V construction.)

334.15 Exposed Work

A To Follow Surface

Cable shall closely follow the surface of the building finish or of running boards

B Protection from Physical Damage

..."where necessary" (describes which types are acceptable)

Which means if the electrical inspector thinks the wire is exposed to physical damage.

So bottom line, this is "exposed" but
"closely follow(s) the surface of the building finish" and doesn't seem "exposed" to significant physical damage, unless the inspector thinks so so it is code compliant if not elegant.

It seems unlikely the residents will poke sharp objects up there.

Article 320 is 'Armored Cable' Type AC, which says,
"320.10...shall be permitted...in both exposed and concealed installations"

"320.12 ...Type AC cable shall **not be used...where subject to physical damage**"

In this situation, AC is allowed exactly the same way as NM in a 1-2 family house, which I'm assuming is the situation..

For the LED jumpers, you'd have to look at what kind of wire they are.


How to avoid overtightening flexible water supply hose connectors

Option 2, with caveat...

These water supply hoses undergo cycles of temperature change and are subjected to vibration due to flow. For me to be confident that the connections won't loosen and leak over time, I always give them a "snug-up" with a wrench. I don't strictly adhere to either a 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn... I hand tighten then give just a bit of a snug, by feel. They will leak if over-tightened.


Is a ballast required, or merely acceptable, for this Philips InstantFit LED tube?

Interesting thing about being human is the brain is wired to see what it expects to see.  It's hard to turn that off, even if you're a ship spotter or pilot.

There is such a thing as LED bars which work both ways, either with a ballast or direct-wire.  But they're a lot bolder about claiming so!

The ruling word is "only" and your first interpretation is correct.

The data sheets you link are highly ambiguous. But that's not so weird when you look at the Electrical Code, NEC 110.3b:

  NEC 110.3(b) Equipment must be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling requirements.

The operative words are instructions and labeling.  A data sheet is neither.

So you need to review the labeling on the item, or the instructions in the box.

Be warned: if you find that data sheet inside the box, that is bad.  It means this thing is probably counterfeit: the counterfeiters found the same PDF you did because it was the first/easiest document to find.

I am always suspicious of the bargain priced items at the big-box.  Even legit brands often "make" items specifically for one big-box store. If you have a part number that only associates with one big-box, run screaming.


Can I make a raised flowerbed against my siding?

You can rot your siding wall, or you can change your plan.
With vinyl siding, IT probably won't rot, but the sheathing & framing behind it surely will.
You either need airspace (not a plastic sheet and dirt) between the bed and your siding, or you need to replace your sheathing & framing with something that won't rot. Building a flowerbed with two sides, one of which is NOT touching the house wall and has enough gap for ventilation, drainage, and debris removal is far more likely to succeed.
Other options (assuming you have normal non-rotting foundation above ground level and below the siding) would be to push (dig) the flowerbed down below the siding level, or else relocate it entirely and hang some flower boxes off the house if you want flowers there.
If you really want the bed raised and against the house, you can raise the foundation or lower the yard (the latter would probably cost less.)


What does breaking the tab on the neutral side do to the outlet as a whole?

Breaking the tab on the neutral side does exactly the same as the hot side: it separates one terminal and neutral outlet from the other terminal and outlet.

I can't imagine a scenario where only the neutral would be cut.

The neutral should be cut where the corresponding hots are cut and come with their own neutral. For example, if the two halves of the outlet are controlled by two separate switches and the power comes from the switches, then the neutrals should be separate. The neutral should not be cut where the power comes in to the box with the outlet, and the wire from the box to the switch is switching the hot and returning it over the white wire.


RCBO independent circuit immediately trips, connected only to an air conditioner, what should I troubleshoot and what could be the problem?

Some possible bad news here. Air conditioning systems have a sealed compressor, the oil and Freon (or refrigerant) is in a sealed loop, one common failure mode is some moisture gets in the system and mixes with the oil, then the mix becomes acidic and etches the varnish off the motor windings, causing small ground faults at first and later full blown shorts inside the compressor.

I would verify it is not a wiring issue as jack and 3 phase suggest. If it is OK with the unit turned off or disconnected, this may be the issue.
A HVAC tech should have a megger (a high voltage ohm meter) that can verify if leakage from the motor windings to ground are the cause of the fault.

A “window” type is usually not worth repairing, a small mini split may be worth repairing. I don’t know your laws but on this side of the pond repairs like this require a licensed HVAC person to recover the Freon and replace the compressor and filter dryer. Then the system is pumped down and flushed, the Freon, if not damaged, can be filtered and reused but, if it has turned black, it is replaced with fresh refrigerant and the oil charge verified. So you can see why we usually replace window units.


Replacing sink trap with a flexible one?

You sure can attach the plastic flex to the metal. Just buy a complete trap kit and it will have all the nuts, pipe and washers needed to switch it out.

Another possible option is to try to twist the wall side of the pipe a little in the direction you need.


Can I install NM cable, junction boxes on attic rafters

The j boxes need to be accessible if you can get in the attic even with a ladder they are accessible. Nailed or screwed down to the rafters is fine I like to run rat boards when traveling perpendicularly to the rafters that way they are supported if stepped on. Running parallel I staple them to the side 1-1/4” down the side. The insulation won’t be a problem.  Note a rat board can be a strip of plywood nailed to the rafters or even 2x4’ rat boards provide a good surface to staple the wires and prevent damage if they are stepped on between rafters.


How long should a rope be?

There is no right answer, it all depends on what you want, and how much space you are lighting. Generally speaking, spot lights will create a more dramatic scene, while floods create a relaxed casual feel or uniformly bright work area, depending on intensity.

if the fixtures pivot/tilt somewhat, spotlights can be used towards a wall to highlight a piece of art or family photograph. A lot of people still like straight-down spotlights in the hall, it tends to make space look bigger, and uniform lighting is not important in an area you don't stay in. Floods in the hall will work just fine, you just won't have the six bright spots on the flooring as you look down the hall.

In the bedrooms, you probably want those to be floods to create a smooth uniform calming light. However, you don't have to be homogeneous, especially if you have 6 fixtures. You can put out a lot of light with 6 LED bulbs. One of those can be a smaller angle to create a (slightly) more intense light on a desk, reading chair, or decoration.

TLDR: use 120s except for effect.


What are pop-rivet aluminium security bars vulnerable to?

what attacks are aluminium security bars vulnerable to that steel bars aren't?

Aluminium is a lot softer than steel and is quicker to cut through using a hacksaw.
There are hardened grades of steel that considerably increase its resistance to cutting compared to "plain" steel.
The same diameter bar in aluminium is much less strong than steel and so more vulnerable to bending, stretching and shearing.
Aluminium is a fairly reactive metal but your security bars are probably not going to be attacked chemically by a would-be intruder.


Must I remove all mortar between tiles before grouting?

I wouldn't be too concerned unless there's mortar that is raised above the level of the grout - which you've already said there isn't.

Scraping the higher sections to give a reasonable depth of grout would be as far as I'd go.

A lot of adhesives these days are sold as tile cement and grout, though they do tend to be coarser than "pure" grout, so they are basically the same material. However, a pure grout does give a smoother, "cleaner" line.

Floor tile grout also tends to be coarser - I suspect to be able to cope with the higher degree of wear and tear it will receive compared to wall tile grout.


Possible to make suction cups work again after being unused for a few years?

clean them thoroughly and they may work no problem.

However it's possible that the rubber hardened and cracked which means that you won't be able to get a grip with it anymore.


How to repair Garden gate latch 'spring clip'?

If there is a groove in the collar, you could use a snap ring or an e-clip. You could also use a push-on retaining ring, sometimes called an knob spring or an internal tooth retainer.


How can I safely extend an existing outlet through an empty space?

If there is enough slack in the existing wire then you should pull it out up to the new outlet box.

If that's not possible then you can leave an access panel through which you can reach the old box and pigtail a short run of wire. Junction boxes must all be accessible using a screwdriver.

If you don't want to leave an access panel you can use correctly rated inline splices.


Electrical Disconnects for condensing unit

The following is from the 1999 NEC (my 1990 NEC hard copy has the same wording in the same location) so it has been there a long long time:

  440-14. Location. Disconnecting means shall be located within sight from and readily accessible from the air-conditioning or refrigerating equipment. The disconnecting means shall be permitted to be installed on or within the air-conditioning or refrigerating equipment.

Good luck with your project!


Other loads are getting you
Switched-hot@switch and switched-hot@lamp will read continuity because they actually are the same wire.
However, always-hot@switch and neutral@lamp will also read continuity because of other loads.
Presumably this is NOT a dedicated circuit just for that lamp.  So that means the circuit visits other lamps, other hardwired loads, other receptacles etc. If any of them are switched on, they create a relatively low resistance between always-hot and neutral.
So even though you have the circuit turned off, any loads attempting to draw current will create a continuity between always-hot and neutral.
However, if you use a proper voltmeter, the resistance will be detectable.  (mind you with incandescent lights and some digital power supplies, it can be lower than during operation; that's what inrush current is all about.)  For instance a heater drawing 12A will have -- let's see E=IR
 120V = 12A x R

R is 10, so 10 ohms.  That's quite a low resistance value, so a continuity detector would read continuity, but a real ohmmeter should show a true number.


Insulating that attic hatch - the type with fold-out steps

I built an insulation scheme for just this situation in a Minnesota custom home years ago. It involved several things:

Framed, insulated walls immediately outside the hatch opening with an R-value appropriate for your climate zone, flush on top of the hatch opening (or as tall as needed to clear the folded stair set).
A second hinged trap door that swings upward. This was two layers of 3/8" plywood sandwiching 6" of rigid foam. Latex adhesive and sleeve bolts held it all together. This door was oversized to lap across the insulated walls. A hook and eye (into a board spanning the roof truss members above) were used to keep the upper door open during use.
Soft foam weatherstripping between the lapped door skin and the top of the walls to seal against airflow.

It's not simple, but it's the right way to keep your room comfortable and your heating bill reasonable. Plan carefully to be sure your hinge situation will work as you planned in the space available.


Converting pendant light to wired hanging lamp - what to do with ground wire?

Sounds like the ground wire would have attached to the ceiling mount which in turn would have grounded the chain and any metal attached to that. The value in the earth is if, some how, the live comes lose and touches the metal rather than potentially electrocuting you it will be connected by all that metal to earth and trip the breaker. You want the earth connected to a metal part that touches everything. Typically the mounting point would have a green earth screw to attach the earth to.


What could be causing strange voltage readings?

Are the wires color coded? (they should be). Black is the "Hot" and White is neutral. If you had a three wire system the bare wire or a green whire would be the safety ground.

Next I would recommend that that there is a much better and safer way to debug your wiring. First turn off all power to your house by shutting off the main breaker. Since you do not know exactly where your wires go, that is the only way to guarantee that they are not hot.

Now use a wire tracing kit like this one from Triplett or something similar.
 That way there will only be low voltages on the wires and you will not risk electrocution or a fire.


Drilled through one of the biggest walls in my house and hit some sort of black plastic (likely PVC). Did I just drill through a water pipe?

You likely hit the DWV (drain waste vent) stack.  This is the drain plumbing for the bathroom and is commonly black ABS plastic.

This pipe is typically empty except when waste is moving though it.  Depending on the size of hole, you may find small water spots that gradually get larger or notice a sewer gas odor in that room or nearby rooms.

It is not too hard to apply a patch material to the puncture to fix, but you'd need to cut a good size hole in the drywall to access it.  The other option would be to enlarge the hole enough to get the tip of a caulking gun in to fill the hole and then patch the drywall.


Garage ceiling joist support for studio apartment?

My recommendation would be to consult a structural engineer or building engineer. They can tell you everything you need to know and also draw up plans for the addition so you can apply for a building permit if necessary.


The instructions say "after switch",  so that's that. The switch may have functions which require this.  Also, you have to obey the labeling and instructions, because the UL listing  (or comparable; CE isn't) is only good for labeled uses.

Some motion sensors need power 24x7 to function reliably.  That is because they need to "remember" the quiescent state of the room, and the ambient light levels that occur in normal light cycles in this location.  If you have a motion sensor that seems to bungle either of those things, try leaving its power on, an see if it adjusts after 48 hours.


Re-routing discharge pipe from hot water heater's T&P relief valve

Draining up does not work

The T&P valve drain pipe is no different than any other drain, in that it relies on gravity to function at the end of the day.  As a result, your builder's completely bizarre installation needs to be removed and redone, as you show in your pictures, as it violates several of the operative points in IRC P2804.6.1, including points 9:

  Be installed to flow by gravity.

and 12:

  Not have valves or tee fittings

PEX is listed in IRC Table P2906.5 as an allowable material for water service, though, so Point 13 permits its use for T&P relief valve piping.

Your plan might work; you may need a pump, though

Your plan may or may not be acceptable, it depends on how the AHJ interprets IRC P2804.6.1 point 6 in your (admittedly odd) case, though:

  Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or structural damage

If draining, via the obligatory airgap of between twice the pipe diameter and 6", to a floor that is not further drained is not acceptable, what you can do is use a basin and float-operated pump setup so that any drainage can be pumped to a place that doesn't risk damaging the house.  (They make all-in-one kits of this nature for draining things like washers.)


Use an EMT sleeve mounted to the back of the veneer

IRC 1003.18 requires a 2" spacing between masonry chimneys and combustibles.  Given that you have a 4" air gap between the masonry veneer and the chimney masonry, this leaves 2" of space to run the cable through.

While you could run the bare cable through there and anchor it to the veneer at each end, this leaves the cable vulnerable to a masonry fastener mishap.  A better plan is to attach a sleeve of EMT to the back of the veneer then run a length of 12-2 through it to cut-in masonry boxes on either side of this run; the sleeve will protect the cable from any mechanical damage, and the 12-2 will provide some margin for thermal derating.


How safe is having my boiler in my daughter's bedroom?

Gas leak
A gas leak could be deadly not only due to inhalation, but also as an explosion hazard.
Carbon Monoxide
Carbon monoxide is an silent killer. It's colorless, odorless, tasteless, and can kill you before you know you're dead.
Combustion Air
If the home is sealed tightly, and a source of makeup air is not present (for example if the source is supposed to be the open door, but the door is closed) there could be a suffocation hazard. As the boiler burns fuel, it also uses up air (oxygen). If a sufficient source of new air is not available, the life supporting oxygen in the room could be used up.
Fire
Any time there is fire (or any heat source) in a home, there is always the potential for an uncontrolled fire.  A fire starting so close to a sleeping child (or anybody for that matter), could likely be fatal.

I would not put my daughter in a room with a fuel burning appliance, or any appliance for that matter. Utility appliances belong in a utility room, not a bedroom.
NOTE: I wouldn't put my son in the room either, if I had one.  I may put an in-law, or a house guest that's been around too long in there though.


Should exterior receptacles be on a separate circuit from interior receptacles?

There is no NEC restriction to keep indoor and outdoor lighting and receptacles separate. I've never even heard this mentioned before.

It's not a bad idea to keep receptacles separate, even for the reason you mentioned, but lighting is no problem to combine. Just keep an eye on the intended use loads so that you will not have a circuit loaded to heavily.


Is there a standard symbol for an inlet on building electrical plans?

I did a quick review of my symbols library including an international crossover reference and really didn't find any real de facto symbol. I suppose someone could have come up with one and included it in a legend somewhere but it certainly would not be a standard ANSI symbol. I guess you're stuck with using a specialized receptacle and identifying it as an inlet. Usually these things are identified on a riser diagram and try to show some sort of schematic description of what it really is.

Sorry I couldn't help.


Must my new air conditioning unit be 3 feet from the wall (or positioned backward)?

According to Trane installation instructions, the technician is correct. They do require 3' of clear space in front of the control box.

As for why the technician chose this orientation, I can only speculate. It looks to me like the access panel is on the corner of the unit, which would mean there has to be 3' clear space at the corner. Obviously the technician could not install the unit in these two orientations.

Since then the building would encroach upon the clear space required. This only left him with two choices.

Given these two choices, I would agree that the technician made the best choice.  If the unit would have been installed in the other orientation, it would have potentially left the line sets in the path of folks moving through the gated area at the corner of the building.

In the end. If you're not happy with the installation, you should contact the company and discuss with them what options are available.


Insulation options for narrow ceiling space

The principle behind a flat roof is the same as with a sloped roof:  keep moisture out of the uninsulated space of the roof.  Most roof systems require venting. Venting is necessary to remove any moisture that comes from the inside of the home into the insulated space and causes condensation.  Condensation causes mold and other moisture problems. As long as there is enough room for air to move unimpeded throughout the space and in and out through the vents, you should be fine.  If you do not have the space for proper air movement, you can consider packing the entire roof with insulation. The idea with this method would be to prevent air movement in the entire space, preventing vapor from entering in the first place.  This method is used for vaulted ceilings and is fine if done right. You should do a super job of sealing the interior ceilings to prevent vapor transfer to that space.

As far as recessed lighting is concerned, there are "cans" that are made for use in insulated spaces.  They have a temperature sensor that turns the fixture off if it gets too hot.


Why is there a sewer gas smell coming from my door jamb?

You definitely need to pull the toilet. It may as simple as a bad wax seal, or rotted closet flange. But since it looks like a raised floor, there could be more serious issues like a broken or rotted drain pipe. Unless you feel comfy pulling the toilet, call a plumber immediately and STOP using the toilet and sinks in that bathroom.


At what wattage does a pond pump pose a danger to human life?

The rated wattage of the pump won't really make a difference. If there is some sort of fault, it will likely allow whatever the supply has to give to flow. The solution you are looking for would be to make sure the supply you are attaching the pump to is ground-fault protected, by either having:

A GFCI-protected receptacle (GFCI built into the receptacle, or into a down-stream one connected through the LOAD terminals) or
a GFCI-protected circuit breaker

This will make it so that if there is a failure in the pump, the GFCI device will detect the failure and shut the power off.
If you are really worried about it, you may also look into low-voltage pumps. I am not sure if these exist or not, but I think this would be inherently less dangerous. However, GFCI protection is generally accepted to be perfectly safe for these types of uses.


Cabinet front faces are normally built as a structural frame. In general trying to cut away part of that frame can literally mean that the frame could fall apart as you cut into the doweling or mortise and tenon joints that hold the frame together. What you propose is not something I would recommend.

I think that you may be asking an X Y type question here. You should really step back and re-evaluate how much junk you are stuffing into your drawers that they are so full that they need another three quarters inch to be able to close. I see two things to consider instead:

Take a hard look at how much stuff is in those drawers that never gets used. If you are like most of us there is probably 30% or more content that can be taken out for donation, charity or throw away.
If your situation is one where kitchen drawer space is very poorly designed and minimal then take a look to see if there is some way to gain some more space. Some ideas that come to mind are to add a kitchen island with added cabinet space/drawers or to purge the dishwasher (pick up the old craft of hand washing dishes) and retrofit the dryer space with more drawers.


What is the best option for hiding wires to wall mounted TV?

I'm a fan of the recessed media box that monoprice sells. I installed it pre-drywall which I'm sure is easier, but it does have the ability to be installed as a retrofit (you don't say in your question which way you're doing this).

There's two major issues with having actual connectors in the wall behind the TV: you have two additional connections per wire (there is a connector on both front and back), and you have to manage cables behind the TV. Connectors are bad because they can become loose and are bulky. Wire management is an issue of getting long enough cables that you can actually plug them in before the TV is mounted, and not having an unsightly mess behind once it is.

The media box solves both of these problems, because the wires just hang out, and you can push the extra back in after you've mounted the TV.

In my case, I ran cables from the box back to some regular wall jacks, which then go to my receiver and other gear. I used a couple pieces of central vac conduit I had left over, which go over about 4' to the furnace room, which is a non-finished wall and directly behind where my actual receiver etc is (off to the side of the TV). This also makes it easy to add additional wires, but of course it depends on your setup if you'll be able to do this.


Correct polarity of outlets from breaker

Inverted receptacles are a thing. Sometimes it makes sense - e.g., I have a single receptacle under my gas cooktop for the igniter plug. It is mounted upside down - the theory is that since that is the only thing plugged in (it is a single receptacle, not a double), might as well minimize one small possible source of problems - plug pulled slightly out where still making contact, if something falls down it will hit ground instead of hot+neutral - not likely, but "why not". What matters is how everything is wired up, not how it is mounted.

This is a very good use for a magic 8-ball (Harper's term) tester:

If the receptacle works in general and the tester shows the correct 2 lights on, 1 light off, then it is wired correctly and you can trust that the wires are what they are supposed to be. Just pigtail off of the existing hot & neutral to connect additional receptacles or other devices.

Just remember, AC polarity is not like DC polarity.

With DC, if you get it reversed, sparks may fly and, in any case, things won't work. (Usually - e.g., put batteries in backward in an LED flashlight and it won't light up; but put them in backward in an incandescent flashlight and it will light up).

With AC, if you get hot & neutral reversed, everything will be fine until someone gets zapped or your house burns down. Your motors, lights, heaters, etc. can't tell the difference (unless they specifically reference actual ground) but SAFETY DEPENDS ON CORRECT WIRING.


How do I remove a Kwikset deadbolt with no screws on the inside plate?

First thing you need to do is find the set screw that releases the inside handle. then you pry off the escutcheon plate (trim plate). the two screws you are looking for are under the trim plate.


Filling large hole in concrete floating floor

This is how I ended up solving it, maybe this will help someone in a similar situation out.

After talking to the building regulations guys, I ended up fixing this hole using alternative 1 above (more or less).

A 40mm concrete slab was cut and placed in the hole, standing/jumping on it seemed very solid.

Added 80mm insulation on top of the slab and in the gaps on the sides so the concrete doesn't just run down into the hole.

Ten put down a damp proof membrane sheet before pouring 40-50mm concrete on top (no mesh needed). Building regulation guy suggested 60-70mm thick concrete on top as that would not crack as easy, but 40-50mm was fine


On a Marley baseboard electric heater 2500 does it matter what wire connects to what wire of a dial thermostat?

I don't know what a Marley 2500 heater is but I am assuming it has a switch on it. There is a correct way. When wired correctly the switch will interrupt the hot wire, if wired backwards it will interrupt the neutral wire.

In base cases it will work, however if wired backwards then parts of the device will be hot when they are not supposed to be.

A classic example is a toaster. If wired correctly touching the elements should not shock you when the plunger is up. However if it is wired backwards the elements will be hot and if you are grounded you can get shocked.


bathroom junction box has more wires than expected

You are almost right

The solo black wire is indeed the switched hot for this circuit and the junction of all white wires is indeed your neutral.  However, you shouldn't tap ground at the box screw, but in the wirenut with the bare wires in it (in the back of the box) -- the box ground screw isn't intended for two wires at once.

P.S. the other junction (one white and rest black) is where the always-hot is -- the white wire in it carries the always-hot to the switch in an old-style switch loop configuration.


Get a copy of the local electric codes and/or contact a licensed professional in your area. The power company should also have the necessary information for what they require for a proper connection. This is not something you should DIY lightly.

This is also something where the work requires inspection from the local authorities. The power company will (rightly) refuse to connect your house if the electric installation isn't up to par.


LEDs to illuminate underside of king bed

Buy 12V LED strip lighting. Google: 3528 5050 5630 5730 7020 SMD Strip LED. (Pick one number and google that, not all at once.) eBay is a great place to get it.

The bigger the number the brighter the light, but since you probably want an entire strip running the length of the bed you might not want a bright one.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMD_LED_Module

They are sold by the meter, or the reel - try to buy one long enough to do all 3 sides in one run.

Don't forget a power supply - make sure it's powerful enough, the strip lighting is rated in Watts (or Amps) per meter. You can pug it into a simple wall timer.

Some of them come with pre-attached sticky tape on the back. You may want to consider getting a waterproof one if the LEDs will be exposed since the waterproofing also protects it from anyone touching it.


Running audio wire in office, wall or ceiling location?

Placement of speakers for a surround sound system can get very specific if you care about it.

By far the most important speakers are the front 3 (center, left and right). The center channel is the most important for movies because most of the dialog comes from the center speaker. Left/right speakers are more important for music but still used a lot in movies.

Ideally all 3 of those speakers would be at the same height and lined up as close as possible with the height of the screen. That means putting the center speaker directly above or directly below the screen, and the left/right accordingly.

Also, ideally the left and right speakers should be about 30º to the side of the center speaker. The exact distance will depend on the position of the seats.

Rear speakers are used mainly for ambient affects and are not nearly as important. I think ideally they are mounted slightly above ear level and 100º to the side of the center (i.e. more to the side of the listener than behind), but ceiling mounting is probably fine as well.

So as you can see you do not want the speakers "equally spaced", although there may be some benefit to wiring your room that way if you want flexibility about future layout.

A few other things to note:

If you are using an AV receiver to process the surround sound, many of the mid- and high-end units include room calibration modes that let you compensate somewhat for oddly-placed speakers.
If you are going to be using a computer to play movies, note that getting surround sound out of a computer can be tricky. Even for computers/sound cards that support surround sound, it's not always as easy as it seems like it should be.


How to separte door handle without visible screws?

That little hole that doesn't have a screw inside actually does have a screw. It's an set screw and needs a special tool to remove it. You'll need a set of allen wrenches. You can pick up a set at your favorite home store.


The plug for my laptop is slowly changing colour, is it still safe to use until I get a new one?

Marks like that suggest that one of the receptacles that you are plugging into may be worn out. they do not suggest a problem with your laptop power supply.

The marks on your plug are cosmetic only, they will not significanly affect its performance.

However the socket end of that extension cord is faulty and there's a potential for fire if you continue using it.


Can I use dimmable leds without a dimmer?

No, there won't be any problem. I've been using four "dimmable" BR30 LED floodlights in my recessed kitchen cans for some time now, and I don't have a dimmer. They just start at full brightness and stay there. You don't need to use these with a dimmer if you don't want to. No performance or longevity problems.


How to disable led light inside my rocker light switch

Just change the switch to a plain switch. They cost $2.

The faulty idea of powering switches

The issue here is an obsolete way of powering "switches which require power themselves to do their thing".  That includes lighted switches, motion sensors, day-night sensors, dimmers, smart switches, you name it.  In your case the switch contains a snall neon light.

The scheme depends on the electrical behavior of an incandescent (or halogen) bulb: it behaves like a low-value resistor when it is off.  The switch only needs a small amount of current, so it leaks it through the bulb. The current isn't enough to heat up the incandescent to its luminous temperature.

But this won't work on an electronic ballast or driver. It will just make the ballast go insane.  Even an old magnetic ballast for fluorescents, it's likely to use that current to light the tube pre-heaters, making the ends glow orange.  If the fluorescent has a starter, the starter will constantly cycle.

So the "leak current" strategy is obsolete and all those should be boxed up and shipped back to the 1970s.

The modern way is to bring neutral to the switch, so it can use hot+neutral to power itself, like every other electric appliance in the world.  Now the switch has a solid power supply, and can work like a plain switch - either connecting the switched-hot to hot, or not.  And that allows any load to work.

Your 3-way switch wiring is also faulty

Typically, "unusual" switches are one-trick ponies.  You get a switch that's 3-way, OR a lighted switch, OR a dimmer, OR a motion sensor, but a "lighted 3-way" would be two tricks, and they don't make those. So the last guy sacrificed 3-way to get lighted.

It sounds like this circuit was intended to be a 3/4 way switch complex (2/3 way for the British) and the last guy really really wanted a lighted switch, and was willing to compromise away 3-way functionality.

So, since you don't care about a lighted switch, and want to roll it back to a plain switch anyway, you could take the opportunity to restore its 3-way switch functionality, so your one trick is proper 3-way instead of lighted.

Are you sitting down?  3-way switches will set you back three dollars.


Recovery from a trashing: exterminator first or disaster recovery cleaners first?

Clean up first. By removing their 'house', most of the vermin will leave on their own.


Putty knife : when to use flexible blade and when to use stiff blade?

Flexible "putty knives" find more application when performing operations such as doing drywall taping. Particularly when larger width blades are used such as 6", 8" or 10" sizes.

Smaller sized blades in the 1" to maybe 2.5" sized are more often used with the stiffer blade for operation such as spackling over small areas.

I have found it invaluable to keep a stiff blade putty knife of the following style available. These come with a relatively sharp edge which makes them very useful for scraping down high bumps and removing paint edges that may be left when something like a door stop or base show molding is removed. The flat end nose of this tool also works very well to open spackle and putty can covers.


In almost every scenario the answer would be no. If the receptacles you are talking about are general use or serving the counter areas in the kitchen then the answer is definitely no.


washer drain overflowing, tried cleaning vent

You're going to need to get an electric (or battery) powered handheld drum-type cable to do the job. Something similar to this;   https://www.cleaner.com/online_exclusives/2016/04/milwaukee_tool_introduces_cordless_drain_snake

Not saying you need to go out and buy one, but most rental centers have them.  With that you should be able to run through the trap with no problems.  And if needed, you can access the clean-out (like in the picture) in your main drain and run the cable through it.

I've been doing building maintenance for 35 years now at a local hospital, and for what it's worth, I'd stay away from Draino and similar products.

Hope this helps.


Higher waterpressure through one 40mm pipe or two 32mm pipes?

For a given volume of water per second, the two 32mm pipes will have a lower pressure loss than the single 40mm pipe.

Using the head loss calculator at http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/hazen-williams-water-d_797.html, and assuming you're using PVC pipe, I found the following pressure losses. Each line gives the flow rate, the loss for a single 40mm pipe, and the loss for two 32mm pipes:

0 liters/second: 0.0 kPa and 0.0 kPa (obviously)
0.1 liters/second: 0.3 kPa and 0.2 kpa
0.2 liters/second: 1.0 kPa and 0.8 kPa
0.5 liters/second: 5.6 kPa and 4.6 kPa
1.0 liters/second: 20.1 kPa and 16.5 kPa
2.0 liters/second: 72.5 kPa and 59.4 kPa

And, just in case you're an avid XKCD reader, if you're running Niagara Falls through your pipes:

2831684.7 liters/second: 1.78 x 10^13 kPa and 1.46 x 10^13 kPa

(1.46 x 10^13 kPa is 40,000 times the pressure at the center of the Earth, or about the pressure at the center of the Sun. Moral of this story: don't try running Niagara Falls through your pipes.)