I think Kenny above was right.

From your wire count, on the load side, it looks like one black and one white go off to the properly-working GFCI outlets (which as others have pointed out need not be GFCI since they are downstream of a GFCI) while the "regular" outlets are probably getting a white from the GFCI load side, and a black from somewhere else (line side of the GFCI probably unless someone has accidentally mixed two circuits here).

This should be pretty easy to sort out and clean up, you just have to figure out which cable is the line feed, which goes to to downline kitchen outlets, and which goes to the downline regular outlets.


How do I remove this metal grating-type thing from a coffee table?

Picture 2 shows it's held on to the legs by a pretty crappy weld. My first thought is "hit it with a hammer" because that weld should be reasonably easy to break; but you run a risk for collateral damage to the leg (bending or twisting) or the rest of the table, that you want to keep.
The proper and clean way to remove that would be with a Dremel or an angle grinder. That way you can target the weld and grind the leg smooth again after it's removed, but you'll need to repaint at least that bare-metal area when you're done, and possibly the whole leg if you have trouble matching paint.
I agree with what ScienceGeyser said though, this bottom grate could be structural in a pretty heavy table and removing it might cause it to be incredibly unstable.


General Questions On Exterior House Painting

Personally, I feel safer on an extension ladder leaned up against the house, compared to a free standing step ladder. They topple too easily. But you do what makes you feel safest. What kind of wood siding do you have? If it's horizontal like ship lap, I would use a brush. I tried spraying mine once and in the process of trying to get paint up into the cracks under each board, the paint built up and ran. So I ended up going over it immediately with a brush anyway. Eventually I stopped bothering with the sprayer. But if it is vertical siding, spraying is fine.


Concrete will absorb water much like a sponge.  Assuming there is drainage at all, it's likely porous clay-pipe (that's why they call PVC drain pipes "drain-tile".)  This was often installed right up against the building.

Over time, when the ground shifts or roots get into the pipe, it breaks and clogs and no longer drains away.  What's left of it now draws water in towards the house and up against your concrete.  If you have gutters and downspouts that go into the ground, they connect into this system and basically seep into the ground around your house.  If you ever dig holes and find pieces of clay pipe, that's your drainage system.

There's really no fixing old clay drainage tile once it's shot.  You should get a contractor to give you estimates on drainage.  In my area, these companies also do landscaping.  Expect the cost to be in the thousands.


How to mount toroidal transformer in metal chassis

A bolt placed through the middle of the transformer effectively acts as an extra secondary. This secondary can produce very little voltage but potentially very high currents.

As long as this parasitic secondary is open circuit there is no problem. So you can mount a toroid in this way. However if the parasitic secondary is shorted through a low resistance path (e.g. the case) things could start to get very hot.

Depending on the application it may be considered wise to fit an insulating plate to the underside of the top of the case in which the transformer is mounted so that even if the cover is crushed it can't short the parasitic secondary.


Saving a brush from dried water-based Polyurethane

Soak it good and plenty in soapy water.  Water based paints are pretty soft stuff, and 1/2 hour to dry isn't really enough to start them curing.  Water should soften them up.  Don't use hot water as that will accelerate cure.

You can try some fairly wimpy paint stripper if you have some hardware store brand around.  You don't want the industrial tier strippers designed to remove alkyds and LPUs, they'd probably just melt the brush.  Latex paint is fairly fragile stuff after only an hour to cure.  I'm not concerned about the drying out, it's the curing that makes it irremovable from the brush.

The mineral spirits was a mistake.  I can't tell whether it sunk you, by reacting adversely with the paint, or just preserved things until you got it in water.  It was definitely the wrong thing.  Be prepared to write off the brush as a learning experience.

Know your paint

Where this went wrong is unfamiliarity with the products you are painting.  What type of paint is basic knowledge you need to know.

Right off the bat, you need to know what the paint's reducer (or diluent) is. That's the chemical you use to make the paint less thick. (reduces the thickness of the paint, or dilutes it).  You need that because it'll thicken up due to evaporation.  The reducer also tells you what chemical to be using for wipedown, brush cleanup, spill cleanup, etc.

Latex=water
alkyds="paint thinner"
2-pack epoxies and LPUs=their proprietary chemical

For cost or environmental reasons, you may prefer to use some other solvent for auxiliary tasks like wipedown, brush cleanup, etc. However, it should still be quite similar (in the family) of the solvent. Reduce alkyd paint with proper paint thinner, but it can be cleaned up with gasoline or that "eco-green low-VOC"  paint thinner substitute (labeled 'do not use to thin paint', really!)

Only the right solvent will do

Whatever your correct reducer and solvent is, something else is wrong.  They are incompatible with each other.

So read the label on the product you are applying, or if it's too small get the PDF of the instructions off the Web.  It will tell you what to use for a reducer and for cleanup.

So then, when you have that situation, you already know what the correct reducer is, so you just pour 1/8" deep into a cup, and set the brush in it. The reducer will wick up into the brush and keep it moist.

Also, you need to select brushes based on solvent

Latex uses a synthetic brush like that one.  Oil, alkyd, and the 2-pack paints use natural bristle brushes.

Natural bristle brushes will waterlog with water-based products. Synthetic brushes might work for alkyds but will melt with 2-pack paints.

With alkyds, there's a real question whether it's even worth trying to clean up the brush.  With 2-pack paints, there's no question at all; into the trash it goes.

There's something to be said for cheap brushes

As a heavy user of 2-pack paints, I go through a lot of brushes.  I use an upscale version of the cheapie dollar store chip brush, so I'm paying maybe $1.30 a unit for a respectable bristle brush.  I try to clean it if I've used it for alkyds, because a once-used (broken in) brush is ideal for a 2-pack topcoat.

For latex paints, if you're the sort to abuse brushes, just buy less expensive brushes.  On the other hand, there's no excuse for abusing a synthetic brush, since they are so easy to clean.


First, a two pole 25A breaker would allow 25A on each 120v leg of your 240v circuit. All you would need is #10, and maximum allowed amperage for #10 is a 30A breaker. Your service is 200A of 240v, or you could think of it as 200A on each 120v half of the 240v service.
Load calcs are complicated, even if your existing load reaches 160A adding a 60A load/panel would not require a total 60A additional panel to the 160A due to various diversity allowances.
#10 copper is only good for 30A, the next size bigger wire is #8, THWN copper is good for 50A (with #10 ground), and would easily fit in 3/4" conduit. The loads you describe wouldn't require bigger than 30A, but I certainly wouldn't bother, things change. Drop a compressor into the plan and everything changes.
The panel in the shed must be rated for at least the rating of the breaker in the main panel feeding the sub-panel. Bigger rated sub-panel is fine, it will only be good for the breaker feeding it. Also almost all loads now require AFCI or GFCI protection, so full sized breakers must be provisioned, so a 12/24 space panel is now just a 12 space panel. Don't get one that small, things change.
Your shed requires a main disconnect, maybe that is what the 60A disconnect you referenced is for, but the easiest way to accomplish that is with a main breaker panel, with the main breaker 50A or above. A 100A 24 space panel is a good option. The panel needs to have a floating neutral, and a cabinet mounted ground bar. You may need to buy the ground bar separately.
Search "table 300.5" for depth requirements. The table shows cover, the minimum fill required above the conduit.
Edit: NEC 110.14 limits termination ampacity to 60°C if not marked, but allows 75° if marked, modern breakers are marked 75°C. Table 310.16 shows THWN-2 as 90°, but limited by 110.14 to the breaker rating of 75°. Table 310.16 #8 copper in the 75°C column shows 50A.


Is this normal - Electrical outlet - make hot prong on cable a tiny bit warm

Yes, that's normal especially when running a relatively high-powered appliance like a vacuum.
As long as it's just "warm" there should be no issues although sometimes the outlets get worn and the pins inside no longer make good contact.  It this is an older or heavily used outlet, you might consider replacing it.  This could be why you are seeing only ONE pin getting warm, one may be weaker than the other at this point.
Also make sure the cord is in good condition with no kinks or worn areas.  The vacuum itself can also be an issue if the motor is having trouble due to blockages or bad bearings.
But unless things are getting "hot" you should be ok.


What is a GFI outlet used for, and where should I install them?

A GFI, or GFCI - Ground Fault Circuit Interupter device protects us from receiving electric shocks from faults in the electrical devices we use in our home. It works by comparing the input current on the hot side to the output current on the neutral side. If there's the slightest difference in current, on the order of a few milliamps, then there is current leaking out somewhere, possibly through somebody's body. To protect us in this situation, the device very quickly cuts off the power supply to the leaking device, within 20-30 milliseconds, greatly reducing any possible human tissue damage from errant current.

GFCI proctection should be provided anywhere there is a receptacle installed in an area subject to moisture, as the presence of moisture greatly increases the danger of accidental shock. The National Electric Code specifies many such areas in residential dwelling units, such as, but not limited to: Bathrooms; Garages and accessory buildings; All exterior receptacles; Crawl spaces; Unfinished basements; Kitchens; Laundry, Utility, Wet Bar Sink Areas; and Boathouses. Local building authorities may have additional requirements. The list of areas requiring GFCI protection has increased with every code revision. They were initially only required around pool areas in the '70s. Now they seem to be required nearly everywhere. You should question your local building authority for the latest, complete requirements.

GFCI protection can be provided either at the outlet by the now familiar outlet with the test and reset buttons, or at the distribution panel by way of a GFCI circuit breaker, which protects all outlets on the circuit it controls. Additional outlets can be protected downstream of the local outlet type with push buttons by wiring the added outlets to the LOAD side of the local GFCI device.

Thus, it is not possible to tell if a receptacle is GFCI protected or not by just looking at it. If any particular outlet doesn't seem to be providing power, not only should you check the circuit breakers, but also check any GFCI outlets with push buttons in the area.


Will the shiny and scratched appearance after sanding between coats go away after applying another coat of polyurethane?

The drying times on the can are usually very optimistic in my experience. They sometimes state the drying conditions the times are intended for, like 78 ºF and <20% humidity. If you are colder and/or more humid you will have to wait longer.

Definitely do not sand if the finish is tacky. There's no harm in giving it extra time to dry.

At this point I would wait for the finish to really dry, then sand it again until it is smooth. You may have to take off some/most of the first coat of poly to get a smooth surface. Do NOT just spray another coat onto a sticky, bumpy mess. It will just be preserved like that.

Polyurethane won't smooth out any bumps, that's what the sanding is for. The surface will get more lustrous but it won't get any smoother. If you've prepped the surface well and removed all dust, there won't be any bumps at the end.


The connection in the floor is for a washing machine drain pan. You put it under the washing machine and connect the pipe in the floor through the hole in the back of the drain pan. If your washing machine leaks, then it will drain through that pipe.


Shower curb tile: OK to caulk rather than grout?

I would not use caulk on this. Grout provides strength to the tile, especially the corners and sides. Using a unsanded epoxy grout would be your best bet since it's waterproof and doesn't need to be sealed. It can also be used on plane changes, vertical to horizontal surfaces. Caulk never goes on as smooth as you'd like it to whereas grout does. It will probably be faster to grout than caulk and unlike caulk, the grout will probably last as long as the tile.


Thank you jack you are amazing. I went thought every gfci outlet in my house and finally reset the one in my upstairs bathroom to get power back in my garage. They are on opposite sides of the house too. It’s only natural that I check it last after looking all day. Hope I Don’t find out who set up the wiring for my house.


Will the cold water from a faucet be warm if a re-circulation bridge valve is used?

Too much over thinking.  The set up the OP is describing is that the pump turns on when the hot water is turned on in the master the master.  Once the water starts to warm up, the temperature bridge closes and pump shuts off.  The bridge closes before the water gets too warm.  I have a re-circulating hot water pump, and the water out of the cold faucet never feel hot or warm.  It is just not "cold".  So if you are looking for "cold" water out of the faucet, then a recirculating would be out of the question.
No- the water will NOT be hot coming out of the cold-side faucet, just not cold or cool.
If you think about it,  The water out of the cold side of the faucet will be the normal temp of the cold faucet water until the existing water on the hot water side has been expelled and heated water has reached the bridge.
If you want to spend the additional money for a separate return line to the pump to have cold water to drink, the builder will most likely accommodate you.


Dead circuits with breakers across from each other

If all the breakers on every other row go out, you lost  one of your phases.  That's not as bad as losing a neutral, in which case each 120V leg can go as high as 240V, blowing stuff up and starting fires.  All that to say, if it proves to be a wire connection problem, check your neutral too!

If both breakers in a single row go out, you may have a burned up bus bar there.

For two rows, and not others, to go out, very unusual.  Maybe if they're the bottom two on the panel and somehow the bus bar burned up or took damage, but they usually don't make bus bars thinner near the bottom, so there's no reason for that to happen.


Go the stove manufacturers' websites and read the installation manuals for the stoves, checking particularly for installation clearances.

You could also replace the drywall behind the stove with 5/8 or 1/2" (depending what the surrounding drywall is) tile-backer (cement-board) and/or cover it with 1/4, 1/2 or 5/8" spaced off the wall surface by 1/2" to 1" (look up "woodstove wall-protectors" for the idea) and cover with aluminum foil if going for the last bit of effect. Aluminum sheet (flashing material) spaced off the wall has a similar effect (radiant barrier.)

You may well have damaged (or missing) insulation in the back of your current stove if it's heating the wall that strongly.


How do I drill holes in Aluminum / Aluminium sheet?

Drill dry. You need a carbide tipped bit that's rated for metal; this will be obvious on the outside of the packaging. I'd drill fast.


What is the name of this old glass pattern?

I found this site which lists many different styles of textured glass.

I think the particular one you had is somewhat close to the Florentine Wissmach on that site.

As for the best site to search, I'd say google image search, honestly. https://www.google.com/search?q=textured+glass+window&source=lnms&tbm=isch


If you just want countertop the whole way, they can be spliced/jointed. The fancy stuff by fancy installers with fancy glues can approach a seamless appearance (for fancy prices) while typical sheet goods will have a visible seam, which is not a big deal if fancy prices don't appeal. Depending on the purpose of the countertop you could do something like hide the seam under a built-in/on cutting board.

Then again, perhaps you need a basement fridge or freezer, 3 feet taken care of easily.

This slides off towards (off-topic) decorating advice pretty quickly once you get out of the "how to do the whole length as countertop" question which is somewhat on-topic.

Replace the light with a junction box for your new lighting.


Yes, you're OK to do what you want. Just make sure the holes in the 2x4's are back far enough so screws won't pierce the cables when installing drywall or install nail protectors to protect the cable.
Also, you need to install protective bushings on each cable going into the panel. You can't just stick them through a knockout and leave them that way. Get something similar to the item shown below. There are different types so check with your guy at the electrical supply store.

It's hard to see how your ground wires are connected but they should be on a different busbar than your neutrals but should be bonded to them.


Replacing a dimmer switch with normal light switch (picture)

The simplest thing to do is to turn the breaker on and figure out which black wire is supplying the current. (This is arguably one of the more dangerous approaches, but it is safe if you follow precautions like have someone guarding the wires so they are not touched while the power is on.) Use a multimeter and test the voltage between the ground wire and every other wire. Exactly one black wire should have 120 volts on it.

If not, stop and report back here.

Once you identify which black wire is hot, turn the breaker off.

Then wire nut all of the whites together. Wire the "hot" black wire you identified to one other black wire. Turn the breaker on. Note if the ceiling light came on. If not, turn the breaker off, hook up the other black wire to the hot black wire and turn the breaker on. Note if the ceiling light came on. Turn off the breaker.

Now you know: 1. which black wire is the "hot" wire, and 2. which black wire goes to the ceiling fixture, and 3. your "other" black wire, which probably provides power to another switch or outlet.

You should wirenut the "hot" wire and the "other" wire together with a short scrap of black wire to create a pigtail. Connect the pigtail to the switch. Connect the black fixture wire to the other side of the switch. And your whites should already be wire nutted together from before. So just hook up the ground wire to the switch, and you're done!


You should be fine connecting it either way around
Since this is a mechanical thermostat, it should work just fine wired in either way around; of course, if it doesn't work, you can try swapping the wires so they are connected to the other terminal.


spotlight is always on and switch is not working

If we eliminate "magic" as an option, the only thing that makes sense here is that you have not, in fact tracked all the wires properly (or at least they are not connected the way they should be.)

If you disconnect and insulate the wires connected to the switch (circuit breaker off, of course) does the light still come on? If so, then you don't have two defective switches (which is pretty unlikely anyway) – you have a wiring error.


How to set up tap/faucet for cold water only?

Three ideas off the top of my head:

Terminate the end of the disconnected pipe with a valve. You can mitigate legionnaire's risk with a maintenance plan to open the valve in order flush the disconnected pipe every month or so. (More research needed on required frequency of flush through if you do choose this option). I'm against this option because of the maintenance: it's ongoing effort, you may forget it and not do it as frequently as required, if/when you sell this house it's almost certain that you'd forget to tell the next owner and/or they wouldn't take the maintenance requirement seriously.
Branch the cold pipe, and feed one branch into the cold inlet pipe and one into the hot inlet pipe.
Buy a replacement tap which only expects feed from one pipe. This may be problematic, as I think most non-mixer taps are designed for smaller mounting holes than mixer taps are.

Option 2 seems to be the winner as the others don't seem overly practical.


How can I remove old paint from plaster walls?

The two standard ways to strip paint is heat or chemicals. Both are labor intensive and messy, and chemicals are caustic. I assume you are planning to strip the paint only because you are left with an uneven surface after it was already partly removed? Otherwise, just paint over it right?

It might be easier to lightly scrape to remove loose paint, then skim coat the whole surface with finishing plaster. Some light sanding afterwards, and you're ready for prime coat.


Some DIY ideas...
1
Get yourself a chunk of mild steel or aluminum, some drill bits, and a couple taps. Build a two-sized coupling nut. You probably have a neighbor who has a tap set. You may want to use jam nuts to lock the rods into the sleeve.
       |=|
       |=|
     _|_|_|_
    |  |=|  |
    |  |=|  |
    |       |
    |  |=|  |
    |__|=|__|
      |_|_|
       |=|
       |=|

2
Use a piece of C-channel or box tubing. Drill opposing holes for the two rod sizes and attach them with nuts inside and out.
       |=|
       |=|
  ____|_|_|_
 |   _______|
 |  | |_|_|
 |  |
 |  |  ___
 |  |_|_|_|_
 |__________|
      |_|_|
       |=|
       |=|

3
Drill offset holes in a chunk of steel or aluminum bar stock for each rod size. Nut them each from the top and bottom faces.
      |=|
      |=|   ___
   __|_|_|_|_|_|_
  |              |
  |______________|
     |_|_| |_|_|
            |=|
            |=|

4
Use a 3/4" black iron plumbing nipple and caps.  Drill the center of a cap for each of the two rod sizes, nut the rods inside and out, and snugly connect the caps to the nipple.
       |=|
       |=|
   ___|_|_|___
  |  _______  |
  | | |_|_| | |
  | | _____ | |
  | |<=====>| |
  |_|<=====>|_|
     |     |
     |     |
     |     |


you may have a badly closing door seal.  if you get a small air leak into the refrigerator, the air keeps the fridge warmer than it wants to be, so it keeps running the compressor to try to cool the fridge.  as it runs, condensation forms internally and will build up in certain areas, and freezes into ice.  i would have a look at your door seal.  just take a thin flat blade of plastic (don't use steel as you can scratch the seal or the mating face) and slide it around the contact point of the seal and the chassis.  you should feel slight resistance everywhere, indicating the mating of seal and mating face.  anyplace you have a drop in resistance, the seal is letting air into the fridge.  this is usually fixed by levelling the fridge properly. the raising and lowering of the fridge corners will make the chassis flex back into a truly rectangular box so that the door is parallel on all four edges.


How to clean the emergency drain tube on a Samsung Ecobubble washing machine?

Causes

Mold/algae/bacterial slime is one cause for drains that don't drain.

The second is mineral build up, but since the drain is rarely used and never dries up I'd say it's probably biological slime.

The third is hair/lint, so definitely a possibility.

The fourth possibly is that by design the water passes through the filter before it gets to the emergency drain, so a clogged filter would actually prevent water from draining through the emergency drain.

Solutions

I'd try filling your washer with a 1:10 bleach to water ratio, and running an empty wash cycle but pausing it before it drains, waiting an hour, and then draining with the emergency drain. Using the emergency drain a few more times like this might help clean it out.

If you're able to able to blow compressed air backwards through the emergency drain and into the unit, that might help declog it.

If that doesn't work, then it might be clogged with hair/lint. You might be able to put drain cleaner in your washer, but that would probably risk destroying it. You'd probably be better off disassembling it and removing out the clog from the inside, or trying to stick a flexible pipe cleaner up the drain tube if you have one long enough.

Enough compressed air through that emergency drain tube will probably clear it though, keep it under 20-30psi though.

Also maybe clean your filter more often and the emergency drain will drain better if the filter isn't as clogged.


How can I make my flame detector more reliable?

Another term you could search is "flame proving sensor." This is the term we often use for the sensors in gas-fueled furnaces in the US.
Having only looked at the photos of your device, I'm guessing that its flame failure system may operate on the principle called "flame rectification." In a nutshell, the flame allows a DC current of a few microamps to flow from the sensing rod, through the flame, to the burner. The technique depends on clean surfaces on the sensing rod and the burner; combustion of contaminated air can cause an invisible electrically insulating coating to form on either surface. It is easily corrected by cleaning the surfaces with a gentle abrasive.
My best guess is that ignition is achieved by causing a spark to jump from the little metal post to the burner ring. After the ignition spark is finished maybe the post then serves as the sensing electrode.
I'd suggest ensuring the metal surfaces of the burner ring and whatever it sits on are clean and that they seat together well. Also clean the spark igniter post. If it's easy to do, remove some covers and confirm wires and other parts are connected snugly.


Windowless room Air Conditioning, Sky light only

The portable A/C units that I've seen have a 3 or 4" diameter air duct to get rid of the hot air. Usually you hang that out of a window.   If you are not looking for a permanent solution, you could connect it to the air vent hose that comes out of the back of your dryer.  You would have to switch it back to actually use the dryer.  I'm not positive but I'm guessing that the A/C unit has a condensation reservoir that you have to empty occasionally like a dehumidifier so you probably don't need to connect that to any hose or piping.


What are the individual names of these nine different PVC fittings?

From left to right, top to bottom:

3 way elbow
4 way tee
5 way tee
tee
internal cap
cross
90 degree elbow
slip sling tee
45 degree elbow

Since these appear to be structural PVC fittings, one source: http://www.formufit.com/structural-pvc-fittings/?sort=featured&page=1


What is the difference between a lacquer polish and a varnish

Wood polish is usually an oil, wax, or oil and wax treatment. Waxes include carnauba, parrafin, beeswav etc.; oils could be tung oil, linseed oil, mineral oil, petroleum oils, or oils from animal fats. Polishes help protect wood but are different from varnish. Varnish (whether natural or synthetic) create a fairly hard and durable surface coating, which could then be maintained by periodically applying a polish.


Is there a way I can make an interior door a better sound insulator?

Reducing sound output from a typical bedroom can be extraordinarily difficult.  The core problem is that sound travels through the point of least resistance -- you can get a good sound block in one area, but find it makes no difference since the sound just escapes from somewhere else.

If you have a hollow core door, then that is one of your biggest sound holes as a typical hollow core door has an STC rating of only 20 or so.  That's not going to do a lot for any noise above a whisper.  But wait, even that is not a true representation of the actual sound transmission.  The problem is that rating assumes we are only talking about the door and not the air gaps around it.  If you have a hollow core door, then I'm going to assume that it's not properly gasketed.  If so, then the actual STC rating is substantially less.

Can you make that door more sound absorbent?  No, not really.  At least not in any efficient (money and time) manner.  Your best bet would be to upgrade to a solid core door.  If you have a standard door, then there is a good chance that the hinges will even line up and it'll be a straight swap for maybe $100.

Doing so will immediately jump your sound blocking to an STC rating of 25 or so.  Eh?  That doesn't sound much better than a hollow core door!  Well, that rating is taking the air gaps into account, so it's actually substantially better.

But STC 25 is still not going to be good enough to make a big enough difference in your sound transmission.  To do that, you're going to need to control the air gaps.  If you add some acoustic door gaskets, then you'll be looking at an STC rating of 35 or so.  That's actually quite good -- roughly on par with the STC rating of your wall.  People will still be able to hear what happens in the room, but it'll be notably muted.

An alternate to buying an interior solid core door and adding acoustic door gaskets is to buy an exterior door, which is already going to be solid core and will have its own seal.  That could be expensive, though, and the hinges will almost surely not line up.


Do lights in a circuit have to be grounded for the whole circuit to be grounded?

If I'm interpreting your drawing correctly, 3 possibilities (all incorrect under current code) may have existed in the past:

They may have had a 220v line at one time split between 2 cables.
They had 2 cables but a wire got cut or broken so they used a wire from each of the cables to build a circuit.
They paralleled wires from 2 cables for higher current capacity.

I have found all 3 of these in my own 1929 house.

Regardless of which case it is, there's a break in the ground between the breaker panel and the outlet. You'll have to trace the circuit to find the break and correct it.  As Isherwood said, your best solution is to rewire that circuit with a single new grounded cable from the panel out.


Circuit Breakers on and outlets not working

Lost a Neutral
Initially, this sounded like you lost either one of the hot legs or neutral. Both are serious, though in slightly different ways.
But based on "odd and even breakers", I think we can all agree this is a classic Lost Neutral.
What kind of a tester are you using? Based on "only one light", it sounds like you are using something like:

Originally I was wondering "which light". But as Harper pointed out, if it were a lost leg then the outlets on that leg would show no lights so one light would also indicate lost neutral.
If you lost your neutral then everything will work in strange ways. Some things (e.g., LED lights that can accept a broad voltage range) may work fine. Other things may work slowly or not at all. Other things might get overvoltage and have more serious problems - e.g., light bulbs burn out, electronics "fry".
A lost neutral can be very dangerous.
However, in most cases, a lost leg or a lost neutral is a power company problem - and the power company will fix it. If you have had any recent electrical work done in your house then call back whoever did it. If not, call the power company ASAP and tell them you think you have a lost leg or a lost neutral.


What should I look for when choosing a stud finder?

There are at least three different types of stud finders; unless you understand what they're doing to try to locate studs, their results may baffle you.

Magnetic - these are a pitiful joke, but they were the only thing available when I was a kid.  They don't sense the stud itself (unless you're in an office building that uses steel studs!), but rather the nails that secure the drywall to the stud. Since the stud probably doesn't have a continuous line of nails in it - and if it did, how could you possibly add more? - and since the magnet is NOT very strong, you might need to sweep up and down the wall many times to find a nail (and then try again, above and below, to make sure it's really a nail in a stud.) The only thing these have going for them is that they're CHEAP - I've seen them at the 99-cent store.
Metal-detecting - these do the same thing as the magnetic type - they don't sense the stud, but only the nails (and other metal in the wall - hence the XKCD joke), but they work on the same principles as a treasure-hunter's metal detector: an electromagnet in the detector induces a small current in nearby electrical conductors, and detects the resulting magnetic field(s).  MUCH more sensitive than the old magnetic type, so you don't have to be directly over a nail to find the stud - but also very susceptible to false positives.  These often go for $10-$15, but frankly, even at that price they're a waste of time and money.
Ultrasound - The only kind that actually does a better job than tap-and-listen.  These directly detect the stud (or at least its edges) by sensing a change in the density of the wall.  You need to zero the sensor by pressing it against a known void; after that, you slide it along the wall and it beeps (or flashes) to show that it's detected an edge.  After years of using worthless magnetic or inductive stud finders, it's a real treat to be able to find the outside edges of a stud - the correct 1.5" apart, no less! - and confidently drive a nail right down the middle.

As for a brand recommendation... I bought a Ryobi at Home Depot and have been happy with it, which probably means that brand doesn't matter much.  Get an ultrasound model, of whatever brand.


What danger/code violation is oversized breakers?

Was the bozo that wired those circuits trying to burn your house down?

Assuming that the wires are 10AWG (i.e. 30A), this is a major problem indeed as the wires can overheat badly from excessive current draw before the breaker ever notices something is wrong!  Think of what a live toaster element inserted into your wall would do...

As to the Code, your issue violates 210.19(A)(1):

  (1) General. Branch-circuit conductors shall have an ampacity not less than the maximum load to be served. Conductors shall be sized to carry not less than the larger of
  210.19(A)(1)(a) or (b).

  (a) Where a branch circuit supplies continuous loads
  or any combination of continuous and noncontinuous loads,
  the minimum branch-circuit conductor size shall have an
  allowable ampacity not less than the noncontinuous load
  plus 125 percent of the continuous load.

  (b) The minimum branch-circuit conductor size shall
  have an allowable ampacity not less than the maximum
  load to be served after the application of any adjustment or
  correction factors.

and 240.4 (the exceptions in A-G do not apply to your case):

  240.4 Protection of Conductors. Conductors, other than
  flexible cords, flexible cables, and fixture wires, shall be
  protected against overcurrent in accordance with their ampacities specified in 310.15, unless otherwise permitted or
  required in 240.4(A) through (G).


Where do I attach the earth conductor on a plastic fixture?

When connecting a fixture in a plastic box, the bare ground (earth) wire is connected to the bare or green conductor of the fixture or a metal screw on the fixture itself. If for some reason you have a very old fixture with no bare or green ground wire, opt for buying a new fixture rather than leaving the source ground wire not connected.


What are some quick and affordable insulation solutions for a shed?

edited after picture added to question

It's tough to get a big shed like that warm when everything's cold.  You can heat up the air quickly, but the slab, the walls, the contents all soak up that heat so it takes a while to warm up.  That happens even with insulation, although it probably won't be as cold first thing in the morning if it's insulated.

I'd probably go across the collar ties so you have a little less space to heat and a good area above for ventilation.  You'll want to cut in a small gable vent at either end.  I'd say I'd use foam board on the ceiling, it will be easier to deal with than bats.  To use bats you'd have to add collar ties.  The foam board will leave some space so air can flow up from the eves over the insulation to the space above the rafter ties and out the gable vents.

It will be a lot cheaper to use bats on the walls.  Left uncovered they'll be prone to tears.  You could cover with pegboard halfway down and hardboard from the pegboard down to the floor.

Not really a cheap project unfortunately, it adds up to a few bucks any way you slice it.  You could buy one of those battery powered jackets ...


What would cause an AFCI breaker to trip under no load?

Given that you state that "no power flows to the room" when you use a normal breaker, the most likely explanation is either that there is a short/arc somewhere, or the wiring is incorrect.

Shorts/arcs are not something to be messing around with.  I would call in a professional.


how to remove some small rocks at the bottom of a 4' vertical water pipe 2 1/2" diameter?

Try sucking them out with a vacuum cleaner, preferably a wet vac. Most of them  have hoses that will fit down a 2 1/2" pipe. Good luck


How can I have door latch hardware at different heights on each side?

(Note that this door location isn't up to code. I'm assuming your house is rather old, but if it's not, it's indicative of other problems.)

Do you need the door to actually latch? If not, you could get 1 "ball catch" or "roller catch", and 2 dummy door knobs. Instead of actually turning the doorknob, you just push/pull the door open. The catch keeps the door closed until it's forced open.


What circular saw blade would i use to cut laminate flooring planks?

You will want a fine tooth blade.  The more teeth the better.  This will reduce the risk of chipping the laminate surface.


Is an electrical box fill classified by wires, cables or conductors?

Each current carrying conductor  (hot, neutral) that enters the box, counts as one (1) box fill unit. All the grounding conductors together, count as one (1) box fill unit.  Pigtails do not count. The device counts as two (2) box fill units.

Total all the box fill units, and multiply by the multiplier listed for the conductor size.

Three 12/2 with ground is seven (7) box fill units, plus two (2) box fill units for the device.  That's 20.25 cu.in.


Yes, once removed you may use a plastic trap assembly to replace it.

You will need a bigger tool, like a large pipe wrench or large "Channellock" type plier. It won't be easy (upside down headfirst in a cabinet with restricted space) but that's why plumbers are well paid. Try soaking the nut thoroughly with a penetrating oil overnight.

They make offset wrenches for this type of job, but they are expensive. I have never needed one, just a big pipe wrench.


what is this kind of finish/texture called in the trade?

It depends on the part of the world you live in and the manufacturer.

There are thousands of variations available, bricks tend to be classified primarily by colour but also by texture and by a lot of other attributes such as "dragface", "handmade", "thrown", "waterstruck", "extruded", "light texture", "heavy texture", "smooth" and so on ad-infinitum (only limited by the imagination of marketing folk).

  Can it be cleaned off or thinned out to reveal more or all of the base brick color underneath?

No. It is more appropriate to buy bricks in the style you want.

  Would pressure washing or sand blasting be possible or would that run the risk of harming the mortar?

Either of those would damage the bricks or mortar.


Air flow and ventilation in an apartment with all windows on one side

You can easily circulate air in this scenario with forced circulation / pressurization, AKA a box fan. A fan in the bathroom and partially open windows in the other rooms will achieve suitable circulation.

I used to make use of a whole house window fan (~$200) in an apartment I lived in years ago that could push 3,560 CFM, or put another way enough to dump all the air in the entire apartment in less than five minutes. I'd leave the AC off during the day and vent the apartment in the evening rather than (or before) turning the AC on at night.


Can I replace this switch with a dimmer?

Is this a "will it work?" question or a "is it safe?" question, or a "is it to code?" question?

I'll answer the first one and the last one...
1) yes, if the bulb you have is dimmer compatible and it worked before you opened up this switch box...then yes, it should still work after you put in the dimmer
2) is it safe?... I choose not to answer this question on the grounds that nobody knows what sort of heinous things previous owners might have done.
3) is it to code?  obviously not.

Probably what you're looking at is a situation where...
1) the black wire going up to the light broke somewhere back in the dark backward and abysm of time
2) the path from that light to the switch  was somehow convoluted in a way that made it difficult to replace the wire
3) at that time somebody decided it was easier to change the way the light was wired rather than put in a new wire from light to switch.  So they ran a new wire to the light and used its "neutral" at the light. The white wire was re-purposed to provide the "hot" via the switch. (conveniently, electrons are colorblind.)
4) either at the same time or some other time, somebody ran a newer power wire to the switch.  Since the light was getting its neutral from elsewhere, and since the black wire to the light was broken, they used just the new black wire as hot lead to switch and white wire from there to light.

My primary concern here would be "why is the black wire to the light broken"?  Since the white and black wires travel together, what breaks one of them often does some damage to the other one.  Did somebody drive a nail or screw through the cable and sever the black and only damage the white?  Did some settling of the building damage the whole cable and only the black was completely severed?  Was it just a poorly manufactured cable?  When the black went, did it arc and make some heat which probably damaged the white as well?

Long story short, this is obviously not an ideal situation.  A couple of possible solutions present:
1) Admit to your landlord that you poked around at the wiring and discovered some things that have you worried for your safety...ask him nicely to pay an electrician to fix it properly.
2) Look into an alternative means of switching the light on and off and permanently remove this wall switch (and its wiring) from the equation.  There are old-timey solutions like a pull chain switch on the light, or newer solutions surrounding the ever evolving spectrum of "home automation" that would give you other ways to turn the light on and off. (note, these both assume that the "new" cable presently providing neutral connection at the light can be set up to provide always on hot and neutral directly to the light -- might not be true, they could have "stolen" neutral connection from some other ceiling light.)


Can adjacent windows share a king stud to bring them closer together?

They certainly can. In fact, you can get them closer together still, if you like, by eliminating the king stud, using one or two trimmer studs (as desired for spacing), and running a continuous header. It only needs to be as tall as it would for individual headers.


How can I prevent cracking in concrete (or earthen) walls from the freeze/thaw cycle?

Drainage, drainage, drainage.

All frost heaving issues disappear when there isn't water trapped.  Piers sunk to below the 100 year worst case frostline (piers of crushed gravel, holes lined with landscape fabric (to prevent silt intrusion.  Oversized (width wise) trench footings packed in crushed gravel (21AA in MI)
Active groundwater management via French drains, swales and contouring.

Once you take care of the foundation, whatever you build above will last.


Those have ballasts in them, so it's not a simple re-wire, per se. Nor do I think any adapter would be available, because of that.

You'd have to swap the guts out (the inner can) with one from a new can, and hopefully it will fit (they're not fun to get back into the can they came out of in the first place, so expect some difficulty).

I don't think you can buy 'can innards'; you'll be buying a whole new can light and just using parts of it.

Another consideration is determining if they're IC can lights (Insulation Contact) and if so, finding the correct replacement 'innards'. But I don't think that's a concern; the 'IC' part of it, is the shell that will remain. I'd just make sure that any replacement had an over-temp cutoff switch.


How to darken flagstone edge on fireplace hearth

You darken flagstone with sealer/color-additive.   Or you can try heat.  I have darkened flagstone outside using a blowtorch, it works.   I am not suggesting that you do this as the results will vary and the sealer may melt weird or possibly start a "small fire".   The method does work as I have used it for outdoor grills and fire pits but saying that I would not have practiced my first time inside.

There is no quick fix for this.   You have to get sealer off first no matter what.   Even with past experience no way I am torching something with sealant on it.


Other than engineered Joists, which are also made of wood products, the only alternative are steel I-beams with a wood nailer. That is of course you want to go complete commercial with steel and concrete panel floors.  You better have a very fat wallet and an engineer to sign off for the modification in Mass. Such a deviation from standard residential practice will require a permit and prior approval, accompanied with a engineered comfirmation of conformity. I have had to supply this type of documentation every time I replace wooden beams with steel beams to eliminate support posts or lalley columns .

The other major consideration is how you plan to nest the steel, smaller joists into, or onto the lower supporting wall.


What does it take (and how) to build on a 'land conservation' parcel?

In Massachusetts, you cannot convert conservation land to commercial use unless you pay commercial taxes on it for FIVE years first.

So, for example, let's say it is 50 acres of land that would be worth $15 million on the open market, but its owner is willing to sell it to you for $1.5 million because it is conservation land. You want to build a house on the land (commercial activity). To do this, you must convert the land. To do this, you have to request a commercial assessment, then pay taxes on the assessed $15 million commercial value for FIVE years. At the end of that time the land will be converted and will no longer be conservation land and you can do what you want with it (assuming it is not a "wetland" or something, in which case the Federal government becomes important).

If you want utility service somewhere in the middle of nowhere, usually the developer (you) has to pay for it. That is what a "land developer" does.


Is PEX water piping allowed in San Francisco?

Looks like San Francisco uses an amended version of the 2015 Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC). So as long as the PEX conforms to NSF 61 and has the marking "NSF-61" or "NSF pw", it should be allowed.  A quick call to the San Francisco building department, should provide a definitive answer.


Usually it is the lightbulb itself. It can be that it is nearing its end of life and simly needs to be replaced, or it can be that it just isn't fitted properly. The next best thing but quite unlikely with devices like this, is the powerswitch.


Easiest way to connect to a junction box when the wires won't reach?

If you can already see that there is enough slack in the wires feeding the junction box, then go ahead and move it. DO NOT just pull the wires to test for excess slack. You run the risk of dragging the wires over something sharp, or pulling the other end out of whatever it's connected to.

Depending on the design of the fan, it might be easy to remove the existing cord and connect a new, longer one.

Otherwise just install a new junction box where convenient, and connect it to the old junction box, as you suggested.


Is Liquid Plumr or Drano safe to use with a septic system?

TLDR;

As a one-off use, Drano® is fine provided you aren't cleaning your floor or doing a couple loads of whites on the same day.

What independent studies say:

According to a 2004 paper by Cornell researchers titled "Household Chemicals and your septic system", despite the assertions of the corporations making Drano® and Liquid-Plumr®, these products can indeed destroy the beneficial bacteria in your tank.  If used in excess, or in combination with other cleaner such as bleach you may encounter problems.

Further, the 1987 study preformed by Mark Gross for the Arkansas water resource title "Assessment of the Effects of Household Chemicals
Upon Individual Septic Tank Performances" claims that for a 1,000-gallon septic tank, the maximum allowable maximum daily dosage of common cleaners is as follows:

Liquid hypochlorite bleach: 1.3 gallons
Pine cleaner: 2.5 gallons
Crystal drain cleaner: 0.65 ounces

Research Notes:

Many plumbers claim that one should worry about the impact of what ever it is that caused your drain in the first place (fats, sanitary napkins, large solids, washing machine lint), than the use of the drain cleaner it self. For this reason, it is preferable to snake your drain rather than clear it with a Drano®.


Is it generally safe to use a lower wattage bulb in a light fixture? (Specifically Halogen bulbs)

AFAIK, bulbs with a GU-10 base are driven directly from electrical mains, in which case it's OK to use a lower-power bulb.  Your fixture won't reach the temperatures that it's capable of withstanding.

The only place that I know of that it might not be OK is with low-voltage (usually 12V or 24V) lighting systems such as track or task lighting: some transformers have a minimum power output that they like to supply, so if you use lower wattage bulbs, you should use more of them to compensate (somewhat defeating the purpose).  If this applies, you would have an entry for Minimum power on the specifications for the lighting system.


Is it normal for a doorbell transformer to be warm and make noise?

Transformers are always going to produce some heat. It's a part of the step-down process. It should only be warm to the touch, however. If it burns you, there's something seriously wrong.
Some noise is not unusual either. Go stand near a power company transformer and you should hear some noise as well. If the transformer is cheap, it might make more noise than a more expensive model (my experience only, yours may differ), but they generally aren't silent. #1 would worry me more than this


How to put polyurethane on wood, one side at a time

Doesn't make any difference, really; the question is number of coats per surface, not order they're applied in.

The thing to watch out for is that there will be a tendency for drips to run down the edges and onto the other face. You may want to use masking tape or other techniques to guard against that, though going with multiple thin coats rather than fewer thick coats will also help (and is the better practice in any case).

(This is one advantage of HVLP spray—the atomized finish dries almost on contact, so it doesn't tend to run unless you seriously over-apply it.)


My electric oven surface gets too hot when oven is on. Is this normal?

The oven vents from a hole under one of the rear
burners. If the hole is obstructed or the bowl is
turned the wrong way, the heat will escape through
the stove top instead of the vent.
Are the drip pans covered with foil?
This will cause the top to get too hot because the oven heat cannot escape.
Are you using the correct size burner pans?
If they are too large, they trap heat.
Are the drip pans dark?
Always use bright finish pans for less heat
conduction.


What is the best wire (material, construction and gauge) for a 30 meter wire telephone?

You want very stiff taut wire.  Otherwise you will have to pull it VERY tight to pull it to the limits of its springiness so the sound won't get dampened by that spring action.

Also preferably nonconductive.   Maybe something in the FRP/carbon fiber family.

My vote is for fiberglass electrician's pulling tape.   Nonconductive, stiff and mad tensile strength.


The breakers will physically fit into the panel, but you'd probably start tripping things whenever the water heater turned on.

At 24 kW @ 240 V, it's pulling 100 A* on its own. Add in lights, receptacles, fridge, or especially the stove (pulling maybe 30 A*), and you're well over the limit of the 125 A main breaker.

If you want to install that water heater, you'll need to upgrade the main service - which could mean upgrading the service entrance wires from the utility, the meter, the panel, the wires from the meter to the panel, or any combination of the above.

Installing the AC unit should be doable, though, since it's such a small unit.

*the water heater won't actually pull 100 A (nor the stove 30 A) all the time. Depending on your incoming water temperature, hot water set temperature, etc it may not need that much power. The stove only pulls 30 A when all burners and the oven are on. That said, you don't want to have things work ok in the summer but not the winter. Or only if you're using 2 of the burners rather than all 4.


Am I having trouble finding studs because my walls are lath and plaster?

Look for wall outlets. They are usually mounted on a stud. Then start measuring in 16 inch increments to find other studs. As a backup, I would use a small finish nail to hunt for the stud in the area that you want to put the TV in. Some studfinders have a "hi" and "low" setting that will adjust how sensitive it is to things behind it. Sometimes for instance, its harder on external walls because there is insulation in them. Maybe go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy another brand of stud finder. If it doesn't work you can always return it. Another kind of stud finder has a magnetic sensor and detects nails which are in the studs. You could try that type.


There is one part you haven't tried, and that is the "ballast".   Fluorescent lights aren't like incandescent lights, they can't be connected directly to mains power.  They need a device to limit how much electric current they draw, and that device is the ballast.

Ballast failures on older lamps are very common.   If you want to replace  the ballast, you can get a modern electronic one that will perform much better.  However the wiring will be different, so you may need to rearrange some wires.  Follow the instructions of the ballast faithfully, don't wire it wrong simply because the ballast is already wired a particular way.

Another option is to convert to LED lighting.  In this case the ballast is removed entirely and mains power is sent direct to the LED light (through the switch). They make LED light "tubes" that take mains voltage and fit where the tubes go.   Beware of "plug-and-play" LEDs that require a working ballast to be there.


Here's the caveat with old coaxial cable. If this is an older house, it might have cable already, but it's probably RG-59. This is from back in the days of analog signals, well before we were sending digital signals down them. If you have a satellite dish, you'll note they need RG-6 or better.

What's the difference? Shielding

Now, it's possible there's no interference on those old lines. In which case, stick your modem on and everything should be fine. Your modem should have a web interface and it should tell you the signal strength the modem is getting. Hook a computer to it and then hook the cable up. If you don't get enough signal, you might need to do some work (or call the cable company and have them do it for you, although they might charge you for that).

If you need more signal, here's some tips

Find the main splitter. It might be in the attic, in the basement (if you have one), or is sometimes outside. All your coax will tie into it. With a multi-port setup they probably have a serial splitter. They should have labels saying things like -3.5dB. Your room might be connected to one that says something like -7dB. Make sure it's on one of the smallest dB loss ports. If not, replace it with either another multi-connector (one that has minimal loss) or just get a double-male and connect them together.
Make a new run with better shielding. You should be able to find RG-6 readily, and probably RG-6 quad shield as well. This would eliminate a lot of signal loss back to the cable connection point. You can buy non-compression ends for this as well, if you don't want to invest in a coax end tool.


Subfloor or partition walls first in a cottage attic?

You'll want to put in your floor joists, lay down the sub floor, then build partition walls on top of that.
It's unlikely that all your partition walls will fall exactly on a joist, so without subflooring you'll be going through all sorts of gymnastics to support the wall.  Since none of your partition walls will be load bearing, you won't have to worry about walls bearing on joists - just use standard dimensional lumber with stud spacing to match your national standards.
Also, I believe that "chipboard" means different things in different parts of the world. So long as the stuff you're using is rated for flooring use, you should be fine. (Here in the States, what I think of when I hear "chipboard" would not be suitable for flooring.)


Can you tell if a breaker can be double tapped by looking at the terminal?

In my opinion the particular breaker terminal you are showing, is legal for connection of two conductors. The only residential breaker that I know of that has this feature is a Square D Type QO. Maybe a Cutler Hammer Type CH, I think?

Regardless, it doesn't matter what my opinion is unless it is the AHJ agrees. I have had this discussion with local Inspectors many times and I can say that I have won about 50% of the time and lost 50% of the time.

In conclusion, check with your local authorities because what he allows and doesn't allow is really all that matters.


Can anybody tell me what is the dome shaped object in this picture?

That is a motion sensor.   It relates to either a burglar alarm or motion detector lighting.

The lighting isn't going to light up during the day, it also has a light sensor so it knows when it is not daylight.


How should this circuit be properly grounded?

I will do my best here.
I take it the reason you are asking about using NM wire is to save money?
Purchasing NM is much cheaper. You can still run NM inside the conduct if there is
room left. So if your conduit is  3/4 inch. you maybe able to pull 14/2 wire through with Lube.

Your subpanel would need a separate ground bus since the conduct is considered the (Ground)
By installing a Ground bus and using the NM 14/2 or 12/2 you must connect the Neutral and Ground separate as for the panel is not bonded. I believe the term is floating ground and neutral. Your Subpanel is connected to your Building since it is not Bonded. The question i have is why is your panel has only 1 bus bar? There should be 2 one for the Neutral and the other for the Ground. Your subpanel should have 1 Aluminum service line that contains 2 hots leads and 1 neutral and 1 ground. The other question i have is the service line coming from the Main Panel inside metal conduct as well?
The gang boxes are grounded by the Conduct, but I would recommend you put a Pig Tail in the box.


Should I purchase two lock cylinders to create a double-sided lock?

Assuming that you want to replace the deadbolt unit (as stated in the question), usually the most economical option is to remove the entire assembly including the faceplates, keyed cylinders, and the deadbolt itself (the part that inserts into the edge of the door) and replace all with a new unit.

Another option is to have the two cylinders rekeyed, if a new key is all that is desired.

Your picture, which looks like it was grabbed from the web rather than being an actual photo of your lock, shows a specialty commercial style lock cylinder. If it is a true representation of your hardware you should visit a locksmith or commercial door and lock supplier.


Sauna heater wiring from 3 prong to 4 prong

Connect the neutral to the plug if using 8/3 cord. Put a wirenut (and tape - this is one place where taping a wirenut is reasonable) on the unused wire at the heater end of the cord.

IMHO it's also perfectly reasonable to use an 8/2 cord and leave the neutral prong disconnected, since the appliance does not need neutral, but if you are using 8/3, connect it to the plug.


What should I do about ceiling tiles that potentially contain asbestos?

As a certified home inspector I will give you some more specific advice from a Buyer's point of view. If the inspector suspected asbestos, then this warning should be taken seriously. At this point in the house buying negotiations, it would be wise to insist the "Seller" have the material sampled by a licensed tech and tested by a certified lab with a copy of the results given to you before proceeding to a closing. If the tests do come back positive for asbestos, get a quote from a licensed asbestos remediator to remove it, and a quote to replace the ceiling with some safe material such as drywall. I would recommend asking that the total amount of both of these projects  be adjusted from the selling price.

Under no circumstances would I advise one of my customers to proceed further into the purchase until this issue is resolved. If positive for asbestos, this could be an expensive fix and definitely not a DIY project under any circumstances.


What type of arbor should I use to fix this holesaw?

For that type of setup, you usually use this type of bit.

The nut on the shank side screws off, then the bit slips into the hole saw and the nut is tightened back down to hold the saw in place.  I found this one at ACE Hardware. But they should be available at any hardware store.

Your best bet would be to take the hole saw with you to the store, and ask an associate to help you find what you need.  I found it online using the search term Vermont American #18303 Mandrel.


From GE knowledgebase

Refrigerator - Icemaker Leaking or Dripping Water
If your icemaker is leaking water into your ice bucket or onto your
floor, several things could be the source of the problem. Check the
following items:

Be sure the water line fittings are secure.
Check the water valve for leaks.
See if water is leaking from the fill tube extension.
See if the defrost water drain is cracked or overflowing.
Check for water on the exterior of the refrigerator case.
See if the refrigerator is leveled. How to Level a Refrigerator.

Note: If the icemaker is leaking water onto the floor of your home,
turn off the water supply to your icemaker. This line is usually
located under the kitchen sink. Locate the cold water line under the
sink, and look for a small 1/4" copper line attached to it. Where
these two lines meet, there will be a saddle valve. Sticking out from
this valve will be a post with a wire running through it. This is the
shut-off valve. Turn this valve in a clockwise manner until it stops.
This will shut off the water to the icemaker. If the water line is not
connected under the sink, it will be in the basement or crawl space.

I would check items 4 & 6.
For a clogged defrost drain GE says

Top freezer refrigerators:
Water under the vegetable pans is the usual evidence of a clogged
defrost drain tube. Most top freezer models require some disassembly
to access the defrost drain tube. We recommend that you contact
service. If you would like to schedule a service appointment, please
contact GE Consumer Service at 1-800-432-2737 or schedule a service
appointment
on-line.

Which isn't much help if you want to fix it yourself.
Here is an image of the cabinet assembly

And the unit parts (notice the drain tube is circled).

Images from Appliance Parts Pros.com
WARNING: If you are going to take the thing apart, make sure you unplug it first.


Wiring in a Dusk/Dawn sensor to my porch light

On the sensor black should be LINE, the ungrounded (hot) feed.  Red should be LOAD, the supply to the light. White should be neutral, and green is ground.

The black wire coming into the box, should be the ungrounded  (hot) feed (likely from a switch).  The white wire should be neutral, and green/bare is ground.

Connect all the grounds together, and to the box if it's metal.
Connect the white coming into the box, to the white from the light and sensor.
Connect the black coming into the box, to the black on the sensor.
Connect the red from the sensor, to the black from the light.


The way you have drawn the circuit is correct for an ungrounded circuit. However if that is your real configuration, slight illumination on lamp 5 is simply impossible.  There is no current path which would make this possible, unless through the grounds.

That tells me most likely, your drawing does not reflect reality. Inspect more closely.

You draw grounds like an electronics guy, just stick the symbol there and "armwave" it, but grounding cannot be armwaved.  It is a very big deal. Since the source is not grounded, grounds should not be interconnected amongst the new things you have added: This creates an "island of grounds" (see what I say here): Now touching a switch plate cover screw can kill you.

Grounds must start at the physical earth, go via the grounding electrode system to the panel, then from the panel to each grounded point in turn. Retrofitting is allowed, so the grounds don't need to follow the same route as the conductors, but grounding must spread from the panel. No islands.  All that said...

....I really don't see how grounds can have anything to do with it, unless you have done something really dumb like bootleg grounds off neutral, or several of your LED lights have neutral-ground faults and they're wired backward or something.  I assume you are checking for that and fixing it.

Anyway, look closer at your wiring and I believe you will find there's a mismatch between the drawing and what you actually have.  If you want to shoot some pix of the junction boxes, particularly the box where the two subcircuits diverge, we'd be happy to have a look.


How difficult is it to repair or replace a preserved wood foundation?

I am in Maine where climate is similar. There are very few Preserved or pressure treated foundations here. I have seen them on out buildings, barns and some summer camps. They are rarely used for dwellings, with good reason. Wood and water do not mix, regardless how well they have been treated. Even though some have been in used for over 50 years, every one I have seen during inspections has some degree of deterioration. Typical posts are 8X8 or larger and usually show a fair amount of decay at the ground line. Many have already been replaced with concrete sauna posts. Depending on the water and soil conditions, all wood in the ground is going to rot in time unless you are in the desert with no vermin eating away at it. To be honest, there is no way to accurately predict how long something like this will last.

As far as replacing them, the process is straight forward. The structure will need to be jacked up a bit and supported. The new foundation will need to be excavated and poured. How much you will need to raise the building depends on how large it is and how many points of support you need. The major factor is getting enough room to work under the structure. If only outside supports around the parameter, then you may only need to raise the building a few inches for a shallow block foundation, however if you are going to put in a frost wall, full foundation or 4 foot sauna tubes, you may need to raise and crib the building much higher to accommodate forms and machinery. This is really not a DIY project and should be tackled by a house rigger that has the tools and experience to do the work without destroying the house, windows, doors floors etc.   The basic utilities such as water, septic or sewer and electrical service usually have to be disconnected and modified as well. This can be a very expensive project.

If I were in you position and had the choice between two buildings, one on a solid concrete foundation and one on wood, the choice is easy. In your case, I would advise having a structural engineer inspect the property and render a specific opinion and possible replacement scenarios.


What are my compact CNC milling machine options for stone carving?

There are a bunch site like hobbycnc that sell plans and parts to build your own hobby cnc.  Here's a site that sells a kit.  Looks pretty neat actually...now I know what I want for Christmas!

Update:
Just found the Torchmate series.  They have a Torchmate 2x2 version starting at $3000.


Water heater noises when my neighbor's sprinklers are active

Oops tried to edit and deleted.
To me it sounds like you are hearing the pressure changes when his system kicks on your main pressure may drop, as you said no tank you hear more and it could even be the controls in the tankless that tanked water heaters do not have. You might want to add a regulator or pressure reducing valve on your main incoming line and reduce your pressure 5-10 psi this should be enough to prevent noise caused from main pressure fluctuations, if you think he has tapped your line when his sprinklers start go out and shut off your main to the house at the meter. If his sprinklers keep going it is just the pressure change. I doubt you need an expansion tank with a tankless as all the ones I have installed require a flow to heat, a regulator set at 70psi should eliminate the noise caused by pressure shift since the pressure is 75 when he is running the sprinklers.

Added because comment was two long , have you ever had the water temp in the shower change when someone flushed or turned on the water? A regulator on the supply lines to the shower valve(s) can eliminate this it’s the same principal the regulator set below the minimum pressure eliminates the change. I think a flow in your main supply is causing a pressure fluctuation that you can hear because of the type of water heater you now have has controls that are pressure sensitive flow or static. Eliminate the changing pressure and no more noise.


If this happens "end of wash cycle, just as it should be starting to spin/drain" then it is very likely the lid switch. See # 14 in this parts diagram

If this is the problem then, depending on how exactly it failed, you can temporarily bypass it (either via wire or - according to some references from the linked page - possibly using magnets) to make sure that this is really the problem. But I can tell you from personal experience with older models that this is a very common problem, with an easy fix.


Need help to ID and remove electric outlet cover

Loosen the center screw and then pull (or pry if it's stuck) around the edges.  These plug into both outlets and can be fairly tight.

I recommend you shut off power at the service panel before trying this for safety.


What is this pipe beneath my tankless water heater?

That is what we call a "pop off", or pressure relief valve. If the water pressure gets too high, that valve will open and drain into your waste water system. Its there so your tank, or hot water system, does not blow up due to getting too hot.


Is it normal for my boiler transformer to show intermittent drops in voltage?

The voltage drop I saw was due to the triggering of the low water cut off system. When the LWCO kicked on it dropped power to the thermostat. Thank you for the tip @ThreePhaseEel !

Gotta get some of those leaky radiators fixed.

As a side-note, the Ecobee handles the power drop better than the Nest. I tried two different Nest-E units and they both read 5-6 degree lower ambient temps while recovering from the power drop. The Ecobee stayed constant.


Looks like it's a Delta shower valve. Matches the one in this link.
http://www.nononsenselandlord.com/2016/01/how-to-fix-a-delta-shower-faucet-leak/


Should Water Sediment Filters Come Before or After Water Softener?

I'd prefilter (based on your other question calling this "ridiculously rusty water") ahead of your replaceable cartridge filters with a cleanable/dumpable screen filter (a vortex with a permanent screen in the middle and a catch chamber and dump valve on the bottom) between the pump and the pressure tank. That type of filter works best with fast flow.

In fact, I do on my own system. Put a bucket under the valve and it removes what's caught in the chamber and blows the screen clear (since the pressure tank is on the "clean" side of it.)

The cartridge filters will be better on the upstream side of the pressure tank (where they are now) since faster flow does not help them work better.

As for the plumber, sounds like "future plumbing work guaranteed" to me. So the plumber might like it that way - having fought a water softener with valves that got funky in a "rusty water house" I'm not in favor of dumping rusty water into one unfiltered.

Edit - if you WANT to rearrange your filters you could make some small argument for putting the activated carbon (taste and odor) after the softener, but it's a small argument and probably not worth the hassle. You might want to take off the "watering gardens" water before it and the softener, though.

This is the type of filter I use - "spin-down" or "vortex" or "sediment trapper" with a sediment trap below the actual filter screen. water enters and is spun around the outside at high speed, then drawn through the screen - a fair bit of the junk slides down the walls where it's thrown & falls into the trap and thus is not clogging the screen.

I use the 200 mesh (finest) stainless steel element, as I'm dubious about the longevity of polyester screen elements, which go finer. And I very specifically put it between the pump and pressure tank, which is not where the manufacturer suggests, but it makes the best engineering sense (since having the tank upstream means that dumping the sediment trap automatically backwashes the filter, & it does not have to be opened in normal circumstances.) If the water shed is not dark you might want to give it a box or a black bag over it to keep it from growing algae. Look occasionally and dump what it's caught.


Transition from KERDI membrane backed, to not backed

I like to use Denshield for tiling bathroom surrounds. It is the same thickness as the drywall and it comes with a waterproof membrane already installed on it.  This means that there is no transition disparity between the drywall and the DenShield.

You can run the final row of tile over the joint between the Denshield  and of the drywall.  You need to use a fiber mesh tape and a liquid waterproof membrane over the seams and  corners any of the screwheads but the rest of the field is already waterproof and textured to except tile.

You would remove the existing sheet rock where you are going to tile and replace it with the denshield.


What is this pipe component in my gas range connection?

The part in blue is just a nipple from the valve to a reducer for the corrugated pipe connection which is where you want to disconnect the line. Naturally, make sure your gas valve is in the off position, the handle perpendicular to the pipe.

Many jurisdictions do not allow homeowners to connect/disconnect gas appliances. Check with your gas company for compliance. they may come out and do it for free. They would also check the lines/valves for any leaks.


Laying conduit in preparation for electrical work? UK

Call around to local electricians to see if doing this would cause any problem. Since they don't know your skills, they will likely recommend not doing it, but you never know.

Some of it might be acceptable, while some others would be too risky.

I don't know about the codes where you live, but I believe I've read that in some places the walls and wiring would need to be exposed in order to have an inspector look at them. Since this is just a garage, not sure if you're going the whole "permit" route.

I understand your desire to get things done while you're off work, but don't rush into something that'll cost you more in the long run.


Is there a quick cure for refrigerator drip tray stink?

If it's a recurrent problem, I'd go with Copper sulfate over bleach.
The stuff is used as a herbicide, fungicide and pesticide, and 25 grams or so dissolved should render the tray lifeless. You can get copper sulfate at greenhouse supply stores and some hardware stores. If you can't find CuSO4-6H20, Bordeaux mixture should work as well.

Bleach and its breakdown products are strong oxidizers, and will corrode your metal tray.
Copper sulfate isn't an oxidizer, and won't do that.


I recently had the opportunity to do this on an out-room on the other side of the garage. It just had wood veneer and no insulation, so the gut was pretty pain free.

I'm a forward thinker, but dropping RG6 or Cat 5e/6 into the wall would have been too expensive (and I have no idea where to run it to). What I opted to do was add a low voltage gang and then drill through the top plate. Then I added a screw terminal to the box end (to hold the conduit in place) and pushed 3/4" PVC conduit out of the top. So I have 3/4" conduit in the wall, running into a box. If/when I need any low voltage wiring, I can easily put it into that box without any wall fishing.

A single 10' section of conduit, the screw terminal, the low voltage box, and a blank plate cover, was maybe $5-7. I had to buy a spade large enough to go through the top plate as well.


These may be "insert" window replacements/upgrades.  An existing window has the jambs and parting bead removed.  Then this unit is inserted and the original stop bead on the outside and inside holds this unit in place.

You can use the same idea.. trim the rough opening out so this window fits snugly.  (Trim it like you would a door, with jambs and trim inside and, as needed, outside).  Add stop bead on both sides of the window to cover the gap and hold it in place.


The Code requires the stair width to be 36” ABOVE the handrail and 27” width at the handrails and lower. (See IRC R311.7.1)

Only one handrail is required. (See IRC R311.7.8) (In commercial projects, a center handrail is required every 88” width of stair, except at historic structures.) Also, handrails are required when you have 4 or more RISERS. (See IRC R311.7.8)

Handrails can project 4 1/2” and should be between 30” and 38” above the nosing of the tread. (See IRC R311.7.8.1)

BTW, in olden days, the handrail was required on the right side descending. This is no longer required.

I agree with @JimStewart and I’d install a handrail on the sides and leave the center open to allow you to have that new barbecue easily delivered up on that upper deck.


Why would I run out of water for a few seconds and then get full pressure back

If you have well water, you almost certainly have a pressure tank. The well pump runs until the pressure in the tank (and the overall system) is up to a predesignated level, then shuts off. The tank pressure then pushes water through the system until the pressure drops to a lower predetermined level. Then the pump motor kicks in again. This is supposed to maintain a relatively even pressure at the faucets.

If your pressure tank is not functioning (there is an air valve and an internal separator between water and the air in the tank and the water, either of which can cease to work correctly) this can interfere with maintaining satisfactory pressure and can cause the pump motor to run too frequently. There is also a pressure guage/valve/relay setup, usually a short pipe stem off the main water line near the pressure tank.  If that pipe or valve get clogegd or optherwise stop working properly, the relay doesn't trip at the right time and the pressure can drop very low (even to zero) before pump kicks in again, raising the pressure.

You need someone to determine whether it is the tank or the pressure guage setup that is not functioning and act accordingly.  Tanks are several hundreds of dollars, but a pressure valve fix is much less.


How can I repair the damage to this wood floor?

It doesnt look too bad. I think when you sand the floor will take care of 95% of it. The clipping may need to be filled in with a little wood filler.
If it was me.. A nice runner or area rug in the entry would look nice.


Framing is typically build on top of the subfloor.  The finish flooring runs to within about 1/2" of the framing, then the gap is covered by baseboard.  The gap is supposed to allow for expansion and contraction of the flooring with changes in temperature and humidity; without the gap, if the wood swells, the only way for it to go is up, i.e. pulling away from the subfloor.

I think if you build your frame on top of the finish flooring, you also run the risk of having the weight of the frame press down on one end, causing lifting at the other, or pressing in the middle causing lifting at both ends.

EDIT: I've thought of another couple of reasons not to build your frame on top of the flooring:

2x4 lumber for framing comes in a few standard lengths: for example, 96" or 92 5/8" for 8" walls.  If you put the flooring underneath it, you're going to have to cut the 2x4's down by the thickness of the flooring so that your new walls match the height of the existing walls.
hardwood flooring is expensive! Why install it somewhere that you won't ever see it?


Shower runs cold, then hot, then cold. Faucet in same bathroom runs hot after shower

Besides clogged pipes as described by Programmer66, thermostatic shower valves are known for this problem. The cold and hot water side is mixed upstream of the closing valve. In normal faucets, the mixing is downstream of the valves. To avoid cold water to be pushed into the hot water pipes (and vice versa), thermostatic valves have special pressure balancing or one-way valves that could be made with diaphragmas, which are not reliable in the long run being  a rubber-like thin material, especially the element in contact with the hot water. A Google search "thermostatic shower valve temperature problem" will present many Infos including DIY videos.


"Floor tiles can be beautiful and stylish, adding color and interesting patterns to a room."
I think you answered your own question.
Edit
Responding to your rephrased question.
Most floor tiles are very functional and can take a lot of abuse which is one reason they are used in commercial settings. Same in homes. In playrooms, kitchens, etc. that get a lot of hard use they will wear better than linoleum or carpeting.
I think in many applications it's functionality/durability over beauty. Again, they can also be very attractive but beauty is and always will be subjective and personal. Flooring is always a balance of durability, beauty and cost.


Can a new water heater cause a Aquatherm heating system to fail?

You should have four lines hooked to the heater one coming in from the water supply one that goes out to the faucets there should be two other hookups one that sends the hot water to the heating system and one that returns it if you take the heater hose that returns to the heater and disconnect it first shut off the water to the heater and sometimes they'll put stops on the return line and the main line to heater line that you can open and close. If they have these shut offs on them shut the water off to both lines also turn off the cold water supply that fills the heater then disconnect the hose that Returns the water to the heater is a good idea to open the t&p which is the pressure release valve before you disconnect the hose then open the line that goes to your heater and open the water that fills the heater itself put a bucket under the line that I told you to disconnect open the valve to the water heater slowly until water comes out without any air in it this will usually release any air that's in the system once the air is out turn the line back off hook the hose back to the heater and then try and see if your heater works make sure you reopen the line that returns from the heater you do not need to open that line to drain the heater and get the air out just leave it closed if there are no valves to shut them off then just turn out the main line to the water heater open the t&p valve usually has a metal lift on it that lifts up to release the pressure then you can disconnect the hose that comes back from the heater and then open the valve from the heater and that will do the same thing to release the air


Having multiple circuits in one box as fine, as long as you don't cross the streams!
What you propose (i.e. having a 15A circuit share a box with a 20A circuit) is entirely fine and normal.  There is one thing you'll want to be careful about though, and that's not crossing the streams; while you'll need to connect all the grounding conductors together, you need to keep not only the hots, but their partner neutrals rigorously separate to avoid overloading neutral wires, tripping GFCIs and AFCIs, and spewing stray magnetic fields everywhere.
You'll also want to mark the wires as to which circuit they come from; they make labels designed for this purpose, even, if you want a professional-looking solution for that.


If you want good paint performance, it's less about the paint and more about the surface preparation.  You have to remove dirts and oils from the old surface, and scuff up the surface so there is some microscopic roughness for the new paint to adhere to.

Scuff-sand with a Scotchbrite style kitchen sponge lightly passed.  If you're galling up clumps of paint you are doing it too hard. There's no significant risk of lead dust, but if you're worried about that, keep the sponge wet instead of moist.

I hear "can't sand".  The paint doesn't care.  If you don't roughen the surface, it won't stick and will fall off in a few years.

Clean with Tri Sodium Phosphate or equivalent product, but thoroughly rinse it off.

If you're looking for a "product in a can" that will do this prep for you, there's no such thing.

As far as thickness, emulsion/latex paints are supposed to be very thick.  Most come out of the can ready for application by roller, brush or airless sprayer.  If you must reduce, follow the can's instructions.

If you have a very challenging surface, you need first tip-top prep, and if you must hire it, do so.  And then you need an oil primer. Fooling around with water based primers is a risk.

Once the prep is done, if I must use a water based primer, it's Kilz 2 simply because it's available everywhere.  For bare metal I insist on at least oil based Rustoleum 7769 Rusty Metal Primer (which still needs prep to SSPC-SP2 bare minimum, pref. SSPC-SP3).


How do I replace a non-removable hose connection vacuum breaker?

You do know the meaning of non-removable, right? That being said, you'll need to replace the spigot. Those fittings have a brake-away threading system that allows you to tighten them for installation but breaks away the sleeve from the threads if you try to turn it counterclockwise. Something like the safety caps on pill bottles. Now, I have removed them with a Dremel drill with a cutoff wheel and carefully cut the breaker off of the spigot but it was a slow process so I wouldn't damage the threads on the spigot. the next time I came across one that had to be removed, i just replaced the spigot and added a new breaker.


How can I repair laminate floor boards with damaged edges?

You can use a very thin blade like that on a multi-tool to cut out the damaged piece, then drop in a replacement piece to fit, gluing it down solidly underneath.


Can I replace a fan timer with one having duration options beyond one hour?

If this is a standard fan (i.e. no smart switch), Intermatic does make a 12-hour mechanical timer (no neutral required). If you want a programmable switch, you'll need a neutral wire in your switch box.


How can I reconnect a compression joint without replacing the olive?

It's important to make sure that the olive fits exactly square on to the fitting and is completely clean. Any trace of dirt and you're likely to prevent a proper seal.

I'd not advise using PTFE thread-sealing tape over the olive itself, rather over the thread to which the nut is connecting.


I would repair the valve assembly less than a dollar for the seat and some valve packing.
If you want to replace it it is a sweated fitting standard 1/2 nipple goes on the inside of the fitting for 1/2” and 3/4 goes on the outside of the fitting or that is the style I purchase under 10$
Edit
I looked up the style I use 1/2”. 3/4” brass SWT x mHT no kink hose bib $7.97 at home desperate.


Wire in two lights to a switch plus a fan to a switch when power is coming in between the lights without using 14-3 wire

They make products specifically for that problem.  You wire hot, neutral and ground to every location (i.e. 14/2 wire) and the switch, lamp controller and fan controller uses digital signaling to send the on/off command over the 14/2 or wirelessly.  Some can also be controlled by your smartphone etc.


What things to watch for when installing sewer line in the basement under 15" concrete slab

Use 4" - don't cheap out and use 3" because you can technically get away with it. That will instantly limit likely problems, and costs very little to do up front. Small lines (sink drain, vents, buried traps) are required to be at least 2" diameter under concrete IIRC.
Unless you have some absurdly torturous path in mind, a cleanout every 50 feet is generally adequate. If you are going to make absurd corners, more cleanouts may be advisable, but not making absurd corners is more advisable. You certainly don't need one every 10 feet, and providing the required access to them every 10 feet might screw up your basement plans anyway.
Remember to allow for future finish when roughing in your powder room access - we've had a few questions come by where the fixture rough-in was spaced from the unfinished wall, and there wasn't enough space when the wall was finished and a few inches were lost in the finishing. Also remember that vents are needed as well as drains. Much easier to put them in from the start than to try and retrofit after concrete is poured.


Can Schedule 40 PVC refer to non-Rigid and Rigid or uPVC pipe (for food safety)?

Schedule 40 is a thickness standard.
Schedule 40 is thinner than schedule 80 and they are considered rigid with pipe.
When you are discussing food grade it actually can be affected by the type of food. I know in some cases plastics were not allowed only stainless (years ago there may be modern plastics that can handle high acid then base ph levels other than stainless )
You would not want to use schedule 40 conduit or soil pipe for example.
Knowing the type needed would help. Provide a better answer but schedule 40 is basically a pipe thickness.


Ceiling fan and light work with pull chain only, not light switch

It looks like you have a switch loop so you need to take your always hot black wire and connect it to the white wire with the black markings (can you read the markings). Put some black tape on that white wire to show it's always hot. Hook your fan up to the remaining two wires. Put some black tape on the white wire at the switch box too. Leave the ground from the fan unhooked since you don't have  ground there.
Now for the bad news. I doubt that that ceiling box it rated for a ceiling fan and it needs to be changed out. While the box could be firmly mounted to the joists, the threads and screws you use to attach the fan to the box are not strong enough. If you have attic access, changing out the box won't be too bad but if you don't, You might have to remove some of the ceiling to replace the box.


Yes and no. It can be removed but not without doing some damage to your drywall.

The trick is to get the nut at the rear to go back again. To do that you need to get under the front flange and be able to hold it and the screw-head together while you screw it back.

Once it's free enough to get some sort of substantial plate behind the flange you can remove the screw almost as far as it comes and hammer it back in. It should them pull out with a little bit of persuasion.

However, since you will ultimately end up having to repair the wall anyway, it's simpler just to push it through. Use your screwdriver as a centre-punch and hammer the screwdriver till the anchor falls inside the wall. If it is really  stubborn, do not be tempted to just hit it harder. Cut or drill some small holes around it.


is it okay to flatten a slightly curved 2x4 against the wall with lag screws?

I'd like a pic but if it's typical construction-garbage grade then I think so.  If you just force it flat with your hand then how much pressure does it take?  If you can do that and it goes flat then once you bolt it down (how thick is your drywall and how long are the lags?) after a year of exposure to the environment in the house it will "warp flat"


Can a NEMA 6-15p plug into a NEMA 6-30r?

No.  The backwards compatability of 20A sockets with 15A plugs is a "one-off" because of a very special exception in Code.

It does not apply to any other combination of ampacities at any level.

Generally you want the breaker to be a reasonable near match to the appliance, so if the appliance has an internal problem, the breaker will trip before the appliance's line cord starts a fire.   30A is just too large to protect a common appliance cord.


Dangers of connecting Neutral to case of blower?

The fact of the matter is that 99.9% of all electric clothes dryers and electric cook stoves in USA operated under these very conditions from the time of the WWII until the very late 20th century. At that point America was ready for another layer of safety.  Does the 4th wire make it safer? YES. As long as the neutral wire never comes loose from the neutral bus bar and all other connections remain clean, tight and dry you are relatively safe. Would I do this in my own shop? Probably.  Would I do it around children or family conditions? NEVER!


Looks like the small diameter nipple screws into the shorter, larger diameter 'nipple', and the second nut is acting as a locknut. Once the locknut is loosened, the inner nipple ought to unscrew with finger pressure from inside the larger, shorter threaded 'nipple'.

Once the locknut is off, you might be able to screw in the nipple deeper. Or you could cut it off without risking damaging the wires, or you could replace it with a shorter nipple (available at local hardware store, Home Depot, Lowes, etc)


How can I stop mortar plugs from popping out of slab holes?

If you do it your self (not endorsing, and see comment by The Evil Greebo) you could put a more secure plug in by using hydraulic cement.

To ensure that it does not come out, holes or cracks are usually back cut (the hole is made wider below the opening so that its diameter is greater than the diameter of the opening). This can be done with a small masonry chisel and a small sledge hammer. Start chiseling about 1/2 to 1 inch below the opening and go down about 3/4 to 1 inch deep.  You just need to get it a bit wider (1/4 inch greater all around) than the hole.

The hydraulic cement is used like a putty and it expands slightly as it dries to lock it in.  Follow the instructions, especially about moistening.

If you are doing this yourself, use a good mask and gloves because there have been harsh chemicals in that hole. Let the chips and dust fall in the hole. Do not vacuum them out!


Acceptable voltage between earth, Line,Neutral - Single Phase

Normal case:

Live-neutral: around 240v

Live-earth: around 240v

Earth-neutral: around 0v

With neutral and live swapped:

Live-neutral: around 240v

Live-earth: around 0v

Earth-neutral: around 240v

So maybe you have a setup were neutral and live got swapped. That's not a safe setup. But to be sure, please check the difference in voltage for all 3 cases.