Should all Federal Pacific panels be replaced?

Concurring mostly with Some Guy's answer here -- the reason why I take an aggressive tone in my other answers regarding FPE is because many of the OPs are coming to us because they want to do something to the breaker box, such as adding a new circuit or replacing a breaker that "died".  Note also that all of this advice applies to panels labeled "Federal Noark" or just "Noark", as well as Canadian panels labeled "Federal Pioneer".

Trouble Brews in the Panel

I will start by linking my main source here, the latest revision of Jesse Aronstein's paper on the topic.  In short, there are three main problems with the FPE Stab-Lok system:

All Stab-Lok breakers made since Federal Pacific Electric acquired the line (from Federal Electric Products circa 1960) are likely to be miscalibrated (high) -- this includes substitute types (the calibration means in the Stab-Lok design was extremely poorly thought out)
The FPE Stab-Lok common trip mechanism is a common no-trip mechanism that can jam the breaker closed if only one pole trips -- this also renders Stab-Lok GFCIs highly failure-prone.
Some Stab-Lok busbars use an undersized screw and post to connect the clip to the actual busbar, leading to overheating of the busbar system with its attendant fire dangers.  Stab-Lok breakers have also been said to be prone to coming loose from their busbar mounting due to their dependency on the front panel for retention.

and three follow-on problems that stem from the system's obsolescence:

The arc fault breakers that have been developed for FPE panels cannot be relied upon due to the common-trip jam issue, rendering it impossible for even a FPE panel with likely-good (pre-1960) breakers and a reliable busbar design to meet the current NEC.
Stab-Lok breakers cannot be safely replaced.  More on this in a bit when I talk about the history of this sordid affair.
Many Stab-Lok panels are "rule of six" or split bus, rendering a jammed two-pole branch breaker much more dangerous than it would be in a main breaker panel.

as well as one final problem that seems to be connected somehow to the common-trip jam defect:

Switching off a two-pole FPE breaker may fail to disconnect power from the circuit.  This is possibly linked to common-trip jamming, as it appears that two-pole FPE breakers lack handle ties, relying on the common trip mechanism to shut off the other pole when a pole is shut off manually.

Digging into the Past

Federal Pacific Electric started off making electrical switchgear, but in the 1950s some folks at a company called Federal Electric Products came up with a circuit-breaker and panel design to jump in on the building boom (and newfangled invention of residential circuit breakers) that was going on at the time.  Production started up in the 1950s, and went smoothly for a short while, at least.

Then, FPE acquired FEP in 1954, and proceeded to trademark the name Stab-Lok for their newly acquired circuit breaker, due to its unique design which used a "stab" terminal on the breaker that mated with a slot in the busbar; other panel designs use a tab on the busbar that mates with a spring-clip-type contact in the breaker.

However, for all its infelicities, the Stab-Lok would have not earned its infamy had it not been for the work of some even dimmer bulbs in the testing department at Federal Pacific Electric in building an elaborate testing apparatus for the sole purpose of fooling UL into allowing them to accept breakers that were actually outside of the UL standard criteria.  This hoodwink started about the time FPE acquired FEP and continued for many years, until FPE itself went bankrupt and went through multiple changes of ownership, first by a holding company known as UV Industries, and then being acquired by Reliance Electric.  Reliance began to sniff around, and what they found shocked them -- causing them to suspend FPE executives without pay, and UL to start delisting the FPE Stab-Lok line.  By 1982, the Stab-Lok line was well and truly out of production in the US, and Reliance was well on their way to suing FPE/UV for their deception.

At about the same time, the CPSC began to investigate this issue in earnest; however, in about 1983, Reagan-induced budgetary shortages and the negative precedents from the aluminum wiring case conspired to force the CPSC to abandon their investigation before they could come to a conclusion; all that came of it was a generic press release that neither exonerated nor found any definitive fault with the FPE breaker line.  As a result of this, no recall was actually ever issued for the FPE breaker line, and there may never be a recall of the product, lest the aluminum wiring court debacle repeat itself.

After this, FPE basically was broken up -- their US switchgear plant went one way (to Westinghouse to be converted for aftermarket breaker manufacture, then possibly to Cutler-Hammer and then closed down by C-H only to be reopened by its manager as an independent company), their US breaker line formally went another way (to Challenger Electric who proceeded to sell it off to a company that eventually became American Circuit Breaker Corporation), and their Canadian breaker line went a third direction (being absorbed into Schneider Canada).  This led to some infighting between the US and Canadian sides -- as part of this, in the early 90s, the two products were acknowledged as identical and interchangeable in the course of the ensuing court case, which was settled in 2005.  Schneider Canada, of course, is not forthcoming about any of this; however, there have been sporadic recalls of Stab-Lok-type breakers that appear to be of somewhat later designs than FPE's original type NA.

A class-action suit was filed against the remains of FPE in 2002 in New Jersey; however, the ensuing judgement and 2008 settlement, while finding that FPE did violate state consumer fraud statutes, provided very little right of recovery for New Jersey homeowners, and no help whatsoever outside of NJ.  Finally, in 2011, the CPSC issued a clarifying note to their original 1983 press release that more explicitly stated that the CPSC had to close their investigation before they could publish findings.

A Sorry State of Affairs

All of the preceding history aside, here is my guide to "I see a FPE panel, but it's otherwise apparently OK, I'm not trying to add anything to it, and this house isn't changing hands any time soon", in it, "as soon as feasible" means "as soon as you have the money to hire an electrician to come out", not "when I'll get around to it" or "oh, that'll happen when we remodel":

Are there any signs of busbar damage such as hot breakers or buzzing sounds?  If yes, then the panel is defective (trying to catch on fire) and should be replaced as soon as feasible -- continue to the next section.  If it is not, then continue to step 2.
Is this panel a main breaker panel, a "rule of six" main panel, or a subpanel?  If it is a main breaker panel, then go to step 3; a "rule of six" or "split bus" main panel, then go to step 5; and if it is a subpanel, then go to step 6.
Are there screw ends (not screw heads!) visible along the centerline of the panel (i.e. between the breakers) with the dead front removed?  (Follow all applicable safety precautions when removing the dead front.)  If so, this panel has the undersized screw-and-post busbar-to-clip connections and is likely to pose a fire hazard in the future, so it should be replaced as soon as feasible -- continue to the next section.  If not, continue to step 4.
The reliability of Stab-Lok main circuit breakers is suspect; there is some evidence available, mostly for smaller sizes (90A/100A), that implicates them as having the same flaws as their smaller brethren, although the reliability of Stab-Lok mains that use a larger frame size is unknown.  However, the main circuit breaker construction provides a minimal degree of redundancy should a branch breaker jam or otherwise fail to trip.  Panel replacement in this case need not be your first priority, but should be urgent nonetheless as there are issues with the main-breaker-to-busbar connections in some FPE panels being quite undersized -- schedule it alongside any other electrical overhaul work that needs to take place (such as aluminum wiring pigtailing, replacement of defective branch circuits, or any panel alterations that need to take place).  Continue to the next section for panel replacement options.
Unfortunately, the "rule-of-six" design, while otherwise Code-compliant, conspires with the common-trip Stab-Lok jam defect to create an extremely hazardous situation; a jammed two-pole breaker in a rule-of-six main panel is equivalent to wiring a 240VAC appliance directly to the service-entrance cable!  Replacing the "split-bus" or "rule-of-six" panel should be done as soon as feasible.
In the case of FPE subpanels, the main breaker panel should be examined -- if it is FPE as well, then go back to step 1 and examine the main panel.  If the main panel is not a FPE Stab-Lok type -- the feeder breaker in the main panel will provide limited protection against gross faults and jammed breakers until the subpanel can be replaced -- so you can replace it along with other electrical work.

Panel Replacement Options

There are two options available for the replacement of FPE Stab-Lok electrical panels; either the panel is replaced in its entirety with a modern panel, or gutted and retrofitted using an Eaton retrofit kit to convert it to a type BR or type CH panel.

Of the two, the retrofit kit is more costly parts-wise ($500 for a retrofit interior vs $200 for a new panel); however, if your panel is large enough to accommodate it (due to wire-bending space issues in older panels caused by the 1982 changes to the NEC), the retrofit kit can be installed in the existing enclosure, which is a significant labor savings over having to remove the enclosure entirely and install a complete new panel.  Another factor that complicates this is while BR retrofit interiors can take tandem/quadruplex type BR breakers, tandem GFCI, AFCI, and DFCI breakers don't exist due to the space required for the electronics -- this significantly restricts the utility of the retrofit kit when the wiring is not grounded, or a significant number of GFCIs, AFCIs, and/or DFCIs need to be installed to meet current Code circuit protection requirements.

Why Not Replace the Breakers?

Unfortunately, both NOS (new old stock) and newly-manufactured type NA breakers are available on the market these days.  Some may be tempted to go "hey, I'll just replace the crummy old breakers with new ones, and it'll be fine now!"  However, there are three problems with this approach:

While Schneider Canada does make a Stab-Lok AFCI breaker, it 1) is not certified for use in the US (only Canada) and 2) may still suffer from the same design flaw as the Stab-Lok GFCI (namely, common-trip jamming, as the Stab-Lok GFCI was a two-pole half-width Stab-Lok with GFCI electronics hung off it).
There is no evidence whatsoever that NOS or newly made Stab-Lok breakers are better than the crummy old ones -- no matter what the era, the Stab-Lok is fatally flawed, save for some extremely old (pre-60s) units that appear to have been calibrated correctly.
Circuit breaker replacement does not address the busbar defects, which are just as dangerous as the breaker defects, if not more so -- there have been field failures where FPE panels overheated and ignited internally due to busbar contacts coming loose.

I want to add another circuit!  My electrician was doing something else and said it needed to be replaced!  My lights are behaving weird and the electrician is blaming the panel!

In all of these three cases, or in any other case where an electrical panel alteration, such as:

adding breakers/branch circuits
removing breakers
replacing a breaker that is "dead"
replacing a breaker with one of a different amperage rating
upgrading the service
rewiring existing branch circuits with new "home runs"
or, any troubleshooting that casts fault at the breakers or panel

is called for, this is a sign that the Stab-Lok panel needs to be replaced; see above for replacement advice.

I'm buying/selling a house, and the inspector found a FPE panel!

First off, good on the home inspector -- not all of them keep up on such esoterica as faulty electrical service equipment!  The advice from here depends on if you're the buyer or the seller.

I'm buying a house with a FPE panel in it, what should I do?

In this case, making replacement of the panel a condition of sale is wise -- now would be a good time for a general electrical overhaul, as well, and the best part is that it may be possible to do a bit of creative financing on the seller's side to use the proceeds from the sale to finance the electrical work at the end of the day.

If that's absolutely impossible, the panel should be examined by an electrician for any sign of overheating or internal arcing that poses an immediate fire hazard, at a barest minimum.  "Exercising" or "testing" FPE breakers in situ is hazardous and should not be attempted under any circumstances.

My house has a FPE panel in it, and I want to sell it

Just replace the electrical panel, alright?  Electricity is different from many other household systems (such as HVAC, plumbing, or even structural) in that the system can appear to function normally (unlike a leaky pipe or a clearly bowed beam) while posing grave dangers to the house's occupants -- a shorted dryer drawing 1000A of current until the utility's fuses blow will catch on fire, despite everything appearing to be normal up until the moment the dryer shorted out.

I have a FPE panel and/or FPE breakers laying around, what should I do with them?

First off -- do not sell this stuff.  There is a "black market" for old FPE hardware, and given the out-and-out danger it poses, getting involved with said black market is beyond unwise, it is complicit in endangerment.  Throwing it away is also not ideal option either, as it represents evidence of FPE's failings, but if you must toss it in the can, taking steps (such as double-bagging) to thwart trash-pickers is a good idea.

A better idea than simply trashing evidence, though, is to send it to someone who can add it to the record.  Jesse Aronstein has been performing independent testing and research on residential circuit breakers, including FPE, for almost a decade now, and has published results not only in the reports I rely on here, but in a journal paper as well, and would be happy, I am certain, to receive more FPE hardware to add to his collection; so I would recommend contacting him through his website and offering to donate your FPE hardware to him.


They can usually be adjusted to close more slowly; fancier (and more expensive) ones (two stage) can close slowly, then faster at some point, but other than electrified/automated (think handicap access button and much more expensive) I don't think you'll find any that just wait, fully open.
Most basic closers include a stop to hold the door open, if you are carrying something into the house - that needs to be manually set and released. Some commercial (fancier and more expensive) closers include an easier "hold-open" where you just push the door a bit further than usual and a spring-loaded detent holds it until you pull it closed. In both cases you'll need to go back and close the door when you are done needing it open.


How can I stop 2 outlets being controlled by a switch?

The easiest way to do this is to disconnect the red and black wire from the switch and wire nut them together. Use a blank cover to cover the switch box. This allows you to go back to switched outlets in the future if you want. Make sure there will still be a light controlled by a switch by the door.
You can get more involved and disconnect the red wire from the switch and outlets. Get some new outlets and hook them up to the black wire and the white wire, and ground. The old outlets have tabs broken on the side with the brass screws that allow the outlet to be switched. Rather that try to use jumpers to "replace" the tabs, new outlets are advised. Cap the red wire at all locations. A light controlled by a switch by the door is still requires.


When installed properly, the life should be indefinite. The hot/cold should have little effect, unless those temperatures are extreme.


Best way to stop cold air coming in from fireplace

You can build an inexpensive "plug" for the front of the fireplace.  Get some thick plywood cut just barely smaller than the opening of your fireplace.  On the back of the plywood attach thick styrofoam or the foam insulation panels cut slightly bigger than the plywood.  Attach a handle to the front of the plywood and paint any color you want.  Stuff this into the front of the fireplace to keep drafts out.


Running the posts through the patio stones shouldn't cause any serious concerns. However, even though you won't have topsoil directly against the post (which could accelerate decay even with pressure-treated), ground water could still compromise the base of the post with your design. Ideally you want the base of the post above the surface with the surround sloping away. That may not be desirable from an aesthetic perspective but it will give the posts a longer life-span.
One other option might be to bring up the domed concrete footing to just below the brick and then coat the bottom few inches of each post with a water-proof sealant up to just the top of the bricks so it won't be visible. These sealants come in various colors and most work fine with wood.


Old home, is this asbestos in the attic?

I want to preface my answer with this, you cannot definitively say if there is or is not asbestos in a space through a picture, as it requires a microscope. My assumption is based on research and your initial statement about the age of your home as well as personal experience and research.

That said, chances are high that there would be asbestos in there. However, asbestos undisturbed, isn't dangerous on it's own. It becomes dangerous once you disturb it and it is now airborne. So depending on your plans - this may or may not be cause for worry.

At the end of the day - tests are cheap. I just had some testing done last month. In fact most places offer tests for samples you take yourself (they should provide suggestions for safe handling within the instructions). For my testing it was 50CAD for the first sample, and then an extra 25CAD for each additional sample. The turn around was less than 3 business days.

So if you are really concerned...just get it tested.


Making or obtaining replacement parts for a multi-point window locking mechanism

Espagnolettes

For reference, what I eventually discovered was that these parts are called espagnolettes (in the UK at least) and that you can buy generic replacements that can be cut to fit.

There are a limited range of common rail-widths and lock-backsets that you need to measure before ordering. Fashions change, so older style parts are harder to find.

  Dimension A - Backset
  Dimension B - Mushroom Height
  Dimension C - Rail Length
  Dimension D - Rail Width

A suitable search term might be "upvc window espagnolette"


Installing Motion Sensor Security Light Over My Garage

You definitely should have a on/off switch for your security light.  I would recommend opening up the wall outlet box and tapping off the 'hot' feed to that box.  The simplest way to go is to replace that box with a box large enough to hold the existing outlet and the switch for the security light.  Wire the hot feed and the neutral lines to the switch (and of course tie green grounds everywhere), then run a line from the output of the switch to the box (you need an electrical box behind the new light) holding the security light.

If you want that on/off switch to be somewhere else in the house, then of course a lot more wiring's going to have to be pulled.


What type of tape is used to seal vapor barrier seams?

I too, was in search of Tuck Tape at Home Depot / Lowe's and couldn't find it. When I asked a salesman about it, they didn't understand what I was looking for.

When I said I wanted to seal the edges of vapor barrier, they told me to use the Tyvek tape, the same one you found.

Duct tape won't cut it; it's too porous. We used the Tyvek and it's worked well so far.

Don't use it on hard wood floors as painter's tape; it'll rip the polyurethane right off of the floor (lesson learned).

  It is the opinion of the Canadian Construction Materials Centre (CCMC) that “Tuck® 205-02 Contractor's
  Sheathing Tape / DuPontTM Tyvek® Tape”, when used as a sheathing tape in accordance with the conditions and limitations stated in Section 3 of this Report, complies with the National Building Code 2005:

  PDF


How can I run light to light first, then switch, then continue the run to more circuits?

Run a /3 cable from the light to the switch

This is easy -- you just need to run a /3 cable from the light to the switch, then use the red wire in the cable as a switched hot from the switch back to the light.


Radon vent? Pop the cap off of it and see if it turns and goes under the slab.


Is this wall load-bearing (Blue prints included)?

Wall Questions

  This makes me think that we can remove the wall but not the post. Does that seem correct?

Wall:

The wall is not load bearing as it is parallel to the roof rafters which bear on the exterior and interior perpendicular walls

HOWEVER it may be part of the lateral system which resists horizontal from wind and earthquakes

Post

It must remain as it is the support for the two 4x14 beams

Annotations Questions

  "CC' CAP"

Column or post cap. This is a prefabricated post and beam connection. The specific type will be shown in another place on your plan, likely either the plan notes, or the general notes

  "2x8 PERIN"

A type of roof brace. Refer the picture below


How should I deal with an unused water line that's dripping?

That looks like a 1/4" copper tube with a kink in it. The kink may or may not be what's been holding the water back all this time.

A combination of fittings could be found to cap that tube. A 1/4" compression to male pipe thread adapter followed by a female threaded cap could get the job done, for example. It would be recommended to cut the tube upstream of the kink, though, because the tube is weakened at the kink and is more susceptible to failing.

The better approach is as Alaska Man wrote in a comment: there should be a valve at the other end of this tube. Likely locations for the valve include under the kitchen sink or somewhere near the water heater. The valve may need to be closed more tightly, repaired, or removed. If you can located the valve, or at least candidate(s) that might be the valve, post pictures of it/them and we may be able to advise further.


What type of adapter should I use to turn a cordless drill in to a corded drill?

No - aH (More commonly Ah since M. Ampere is a proper name, and hours are just hours) is Amperes*hours and is a quantity of charge. 1.2 Amperes for 1 hour, 2.4 amperes for 30 minutes, 0.6 Amperes for 2 hours - all = 1.2 Ah.

NiCads (when happy) are capable of providing very large currents - so you'll need a 12V adapter with a bit more current capability to be able to run your drill at full speed as a "corded" drill. Cut and try is the best I can suggest - i.e., find a 2.5A or 3A 12V DC supply and see if it will run the drill at full load or not - or else find a large 12VDC battery (such as a car battery) and a DC ammeter and see what the drill actually uses for current when under full load. A car battery charger is often the cheapest high current 12VDC supply available, unless you have an old computer power supply with a high current 12V section. The only trick there is that a 12V (nominal) lead acid battery (as from a car) actually operates at a slightly higher voltage than a 12V NiCad battery pack...


How to cut a rectangular notch out of a timber beam?

The third cut is the tricky one, you could plunge cut with an oscillating tool, that'd be one way.

However the old-school way is probably faster and easier just to make a few more cuts between the first two, and then break the fragments out and clean it up using a chisel.

if the first cuts were with a hand-held rotary saw, you already have the depth set, so make another three-to five cuts kind of parallel between the first two (precision is not needed) then snap off the upstands and scrape the bottom clean with the chisel.


Normal toggle switches don't fit flush in metal electrical box cover

Those ears snap off
Those are called "plaster ears" and can be broken off using a pair of pliers.  Snapping them off will let you fit the new switch into the existing box.


Ideal approach to level a 6x8 ft bathroom?

Leveling compounds are a last resort. They're a pain to work with and make future work more difficult. The right way to fix this is now, while you have the framing accessible. In a room that small, an inch out of level is certainly significant. You'd feel it every time you walked in.

Either rip strips to stack onto your joists, or sister 2x4s to them with their top edges at level. The latter is simpler if you would need tapered strips. Set the outer ones first and use a straightedge or dryline to set the interior ones. Use heavy-duty construction adhesive and screws for everything, including the subfloor.

3" screws are probably overkill for your subfloor. 2" or 2-1/2" are fine if the joists are solid. If not you'll get thread stripping and need longer ones. You should be able to drive the heads slightly below flush.


I just want to clarify what you're asking.

You have a sub-panel in your garage.   How large is the breaker feeding this sub-panel? (located in your house)

This sub-panel in the garage, has two 15a breakers, one of which is connected to the red, one to the black wire in a run of 10-3 wire.

What does this circuit power?  I'd assume your 240v heater?  Is there anything else connected to this circuit?

Since it's 10 gauge wire (as I understand from your post), it can be used with a 30a breaker, but it will need to be a 240v 30a breaker, there can't be any branches off this circuit with smaller wire, and only if your heater is rated for 30a.

Now, do you need 30a?  What is the requirement for your heater?  There's nothing wrong with oversized wiring, and if you're not tripping any breakers, it might not need to be changed.  YOu WILL need to make sure both 15a breakers are tied together, but that's it.


Inheriting an alarm system in our first house

Speaking in general terms, the wired sensors are standard across manufacturers. If you call an alarm company to come out and hook you up for monitoring, they will either reuse the panel or just replace it. Often this cost is waived as part of signing a monitoring contract. Wireless sensors are not as compatible, but not out of the realm of possibility.

Monitoring does not require a land line. Cellular monitoring is available.

If you can find the model number of the main control board, often the programmer or installer manual is easily locatable on the internet. These manuals can have instructions on resetting passwords.

If you can't find the manual or you can't reset it, and you're feeling a bit more DIY, you can buy a new control board and install it yourself.


How can I wire this bathroom fan into the middle of an existing circuit?

how would I connect everything up at the light to allow the attic outlets to still have continuous power?

Wire neutrals #1, #2, and #5 together; there will be no neutral connection to Romex #2. Connect "black" #1, #2, & #3 together, to deliver power to the outlet in the attic and to the wall switch; #3 will connect to the "line" terminal on the switch (if it has a terminal labeled as such, most do not and it doesn't really matter).

The wire you have labeled as "neutral #3" in your diagram will actually become the "switched hot" that delivers switched power back up to the load (to black #5 and red #2), if it is a white wire then you must mark it as a switched hot by wrapping black or red tape around the visible insulated ends in each junction box, or marking those ends with a black or red marker, or labeling them somehow.


How do I know which wire is which is this old switch?

We have to go by what people say and show us, but it seems like you're really stretching the limits of your knowledge to do this safely.  That said, you have to start somewhere, so here goes.
First, the "old switch" is a 3-way switch.  You surely know this light is controlled from 2+ locations.  I suggest boning up on how these circuits work, so that you know what you're looking at and so you'll be able to reassign these wires to what the smart-switches need, since I have a feeling the other end will be involved too.

Traditional 3-ways have 2 travelers and 1 common.  The 2 travelers are always in the same cable, so it's that red and the black that is with it.  Clearly the other black is in a different cable since cables don't have 2 blacks.
They all have whites though, where are they?  No doubt pushed into the back of the box and nutted together, these are your neutrals - probably.  You'll need to pigtail off those to obtain your smart switch's neutral.
Traditional switches don't have neutral screws because they don't use neutral.
Note that wire color does not correspond to wire function.  3-way circuits especially. For instance your travelers are red-black; I prefer them yellow-yellow and will typically mark them that way with colored tape.
Hopefully armed with that knowledge you can fit what you have to the wiring diagrams in the instructions. You are required to obey the instructions when installing the product (that's in Code; NEC 110.3).
It may be worthwhile to go to the local library and get a book on wiring home electrical, and read a great bulk of it through.  This will give you a well-rounded primer on the subject.  Won't answer every question, but we're here.


15 Amp GFI breaker trips in main Breaker panel

No! The goal of a breaker is to trip before the wiring starts a fire. If you increase the breaker limit without changing the wiring, the fire may start before the breaker trips.  So, you would have to update wiring before you can think about changing that breaker.


Does such a door knob/handle exist that has the latch bolt installed on the outside of the door?

You might want to investigate rim locks. These are decorative/antique styles, but there may be more utilitarian ones if that is what you want.


Are concrete blocks a cost effective, modern and strong solution to building a house?

If you can get past the appearance, here are some other considerations: 1) cost of installation of blocks, 2) wall insulation, 3) paint, 4) electrical, 5) larger foundation, 6) seismic loading, 7) future changes, 8) thicker walls.

1) Material cost of blocks is just the beginning. You'll need special shapes, (i.e.: lintels, corners, etc.). You'll need mortar, have you ever laid a block? It's difficult and slow. You'll need reinforcing (horizontal and vertical). You'll need grout in the cells to "hold" the reinforcement.

2) You'll need special insulation on the interior or exterior of the wall and then you'll need to cover that insulation with something.

3) Concrete blocks are porous and you'll need to coat the wall with a block filler before painting.

4) Installing anything in the wall like electricity, will be difficult.

5) The weight of the wall is significantly more than a wood frame wall, so the foundation will need to be larger too.

6) Heavy construction is critical in seismic zones and light buildings are critical in high wind zones. Wood framing is easy to add extra reinforcing (plywood), but block construction gets expensive, especially at openings.

7) Any future changes, remodeling, etc is more difficult than wood.

8) Because the walls are thicker, the building needs to be larger to provide the same size rooms as with wood framed walls. So, you'll have a larger "footprint" and thus require more roofing, attic insulation, etc.

...But fire protection may be better...


The colors are mostly irrelevant - while there is a "standard", really what is important is that when changing the thermostat, you write down what terminals the wires are connected to and that you connect them to the same terminals on a new thermostat.

The "click" of your thermostat is a relay - it is possible that your thermostat is no longer functioning properly.

It is unlikely that two wires would be connected to the same terminal at the thermostat. I would suggest purchasing a new thermostat and ruling out whether the thermostat itself is the issue.  If a new thermostat also does not function, it is likely that there is an issue with the controller board in your furnace, or an issue with the wires running between the two.


Add a second layer of drywall with Green Glue for sound isolation; not shilling, just heard very good things about it and plan to use it to soundproof a den.


It appears in the photo that the pipe stub coming out of the wall has some extra length that could be removed, a new "Y" installed which would give you the needed space.

It's a little difficult to judge the length but it appears there is a good 2" there.


Attached garage wall with house - cabinets to the interior?

It all depends on the wall. An attached garage wall is an important firewall, with requirements far stricter than most other areas of the house. Actually, most of a house (with the exception of bathrooms) could be one big open space except for the garage.

This link has a good writeup based on the 2006 IRC. As I understand it, unless you have something stronger (e.g., a brick or cinderblock wall (common in older construction or where the garage was added after the house was built, but far less likely in new construction because it costs more), you need to have 1/2" drywall - with joints, edges, holes all sealed very well - on the garage wall as a firewall. There are also requirements for doors - your ordinary interior door won't do even though from the perspective of residents it is an interior door.

End result: You need to see what is inside your walls before knocking them down. If you have brick or block on the garage side then you can likely tear down drywall and (provided they are not load bearing, or with appropriate changes to take care of loads) even remove some studs in order to get more space for cabinets. If you have an ordinary wall with drywall on both sides and studs in between, you should be able to remove the inner drywall, but you need to be certain that the garage drywall remains intact (and/or is patched as needed) so that you still have a proper firewall. On the other hand, if you have drywall on the inside and open on the garage side (i.e., inside the garage you currently see studs and the back on the hallway drywall) then the inside wall is the firestop and you can't do anything to that wall without adding drywall on the garage side - with extreme attention to joints, edges and other gaps. As I understand the IRC, there should never be "drywall only on the house side" but I have seen that - maybe not to code, or maybe the code has changed.

You may also have an issue, particularly if you can't borrow space from the wall cavity, of hallway width. Hallways should normally be at least 3 feet wide. While there is likely some leeway for an unnecessary hallway - e.g., a hallway that leads only to a storage area - any hallway that goes between living areas and a functional entrance (which certainly includes a garage) should meet that minimum. So if your hallway is 4' wide that gives you 1' to play width. If it is less than 4' wide then this may not be doable at all.


Wiring a switch to an outlet to control Garbage disposal

NO. You CANNOT power a disposal from an existing kitchen counter receptacle circuit.

If the dishwasher is on a 20A circuit typically you can share that circuit, other than that usually they are on a dedicated circuit.


False wall that projects out beyond the header.  If the window is going to be surrounded by cabinets they won't even notice it.  A picture would help.


Your crimp ring looks good to me as well. It takes a lot of crooked to make a pex fitting leak. I've only managed a leaking pex fitting once, but I'd say if you're more than about 10 degrees off, you risk leaking.

However, for future reference, when I'm working in tight spaces where I'm concerned I might cause a leak, I use sharkbite fittings. While they are expensive, they are easy to add on and do not need a crimp tool. Sometimes it is difficult to get these large crimpers in small spaces and crimp straight. The cost of the fitting is well worth it if you prevent a leak.


Steel Threaded Pipe/Compression Fitting Replacement

It looks like you will need to replace the entire hose. I've never seen one quite like the one in your picture and I can't tell what the connection type is at the other end, but this site might help you determine what you have/need: Stainless Steel Corrugated Hose for Faucet.

As far as shutting off the water to the entire building; there’s typically a shutoff valve at the wall, or at minimum a separate water shutoff for just your condo unit. There should be no need to shut off the entire building.


Can you use a standard joist hanger connect lumber to an i-joist if I add stiffeners?

I would carefully fit notched blocks the height of the joist into the cavity so they make contact on all faces. I'd also put a backer block between the ribs on the back side. Then I'd use construction glue and screws to anchor everything. Mount the hanger to that.
                    ________ __
                   |     ---|--|* <--- screws
                   |________|  |_
                   |   ||      | \
       screws --> *|---||---   |  \
                   |   ||      |   |
                  *|---||---   |   |
       backer ---->|   ||      |   |<-- joist hanger
                  *|---||---   |   |
                   |___||___   |   |
                   |        |  |   \
                   |________|__|____|
                             ^----------filler block

I'm not sure that it meets code, but I'd have confidence in it. Heck, if your face-nailed boards held up this will.


One Big Power Supply vs Multiple Smaller Ones

I'd go for many smaller ones.

Cheaper.
Quieter (no fans)
Cheaper to replace in case of failure (you just replace one instead of all of them)
Better control over voltage drop (you can put each PSU closer to the load to extend efficient mains wires and shorten inefficient 12V wires)
Better control over cooling (you can put them farther apart to disperse heat production)
Ability to shut down (disconnect from mains) parts of the system to increase efficiency (underloaded PSUs are very inefficient)

Single large PSU is unavoidable for single large load - that's why they're more expensive.

As a side note, I am bit concerned about the "behind cabinets" part. A 240W PSU running at 80% efficiency will dissipate almost 50W on it's own - that requires pretty good access to fresh air. No problem if they are between cabinet and a wall and this space is open at the top and the bottom - they will create enough draft on their own. But if you close the space, they'll cook themselves, greatly shortening lifespan.


Does the box fill calculation account for a device like this differently?

No. The Code does not distinguish between particular devices.

If the device is yoke mounted it requires a double volume allowance of the largest conductor attached to it in the box.

Here is the pertinent 2014/2017 National Electrical Code Article:

  314.16(B)(4) Device or Equipment Fill.  For each yoke or strap containing one or more devices or equipment, a double volume allowance in accordance with Table 314.16(B) shall be made for each yoke or strap based on the largest conductor connected to a device(s) or equipment supported by that yoke or strap. A device or utilization equipment wider than a single 50 mm (2 in.) device box as described in Table 314.16(A) shall have double volume allowances provided for each gang required for mounting.

If the device was surface mounted (like the old bi-metallic style probably was) on the outside of the box, or is not technically "yoke mounted" then this requirement does not apply.

Your conductor count looks good. According to Table 314.16(A) the deepest 3" x 2" device box is only good for 18.0 cubic inches or 8-#12 wire count.

So, to be Code compliant, you would need to remove the pass-thru conductors and make those joints elsewhere, or change the box to a 4" x 1 1\2" square with a single gang plaster ring, or they make some single gang boxes with an expansion on the side that may have enough volume.


20' run of romex unsupported through confined-space basement finished ceiling?

This is fine
What you are describing falls under NEC 334.30(B) point 1:

(B) Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be
permitted to be unsupported where the cable:
(1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces
in finished buildings or structures and supporting is
impracticable.

So, go ahead and fish the cable through the ceiling as you plan to do.


Thermostat wiring: heat and fan of but AC not cooling & 2 disconnected wires!

It's fine that the orange and yellow are not connected; this assumes they are not connected to anything inside the furnace.
Running 7 wires for a thermostat is normal for future enhancement of either your HVAC system or the thermostat itself. The additional benefit of running too many wires is that if there is a faulty or broken wire like red then you can just repurpose a different color without running a brand new t-stat wire. If you only ran 5-wire and red turned out to be faulty then you need to run a whole new wire; hopefully 7-wire this time ;-)
Yes, there are generally accepted colors for stuff but there's nothing physically wrong with using "wrong" colors as long as they land in the correct terminals at both ends of the wire.
You'll notice there's some gray tape on the blue wire which is a standard wire color for cooling in an A/C unit. The yellow should have been used but whatever.
The only way to truly know which wires go where is to read the manuals: thermostat, furnace, and A/C unit. G needs to land on G at both ends of the wire regardless of wire color.
To me everything looks fine here. You need to add pictures of the wiring inside the furnace and in the A/C unit. If you're not able/willing to do this then you need to call a professional.


When is the best time to install solar tubes in relation to a new roof?

If your doing the work yourself its only your time you wasting but if your paying someone then its your money.  Flashing for solar tubes is not that bad just an oversized plumbing vent.  If your roof is in bad condition it could be a project because the shingles will break apart if they are too old a brittle. You May need to buy a bundle of shingles to replace the shingles you break.


Is galvanized steel totally incompatible with cedar, even when only touching on the surface?

Yes, to both. The cedar will last for decades and your hardware should too. Simply isolate the galvanized from the stainless and cedar, but definitely don't trade the cedar for some much lesser grade wood. Don't get talked into hot-dipped fasteners, stainless is the only way to go.

Buy thick fiber or plastic washers or even use cut-up pieces of tar-paper, rubber, roofing shingles, milk jugs or soda bottles. Of course, the more UV resistant the better, the exposed cheap stuff can be trimmed or spot painted after installation for UV protection.


How to demo a partially structural chimney?

It looks like the rafter is , or can be, supported by the house wall, if that is the case just ensure that it is well attached and begin demolition by removing bricks from the top.


Commissioned to build a row of lights, want to make sure I'm doing it right/ no easier way

Just a possible alternative, if I read you right the conduit bodies in the box are out of sight.  Mount a piece of unistrut on the back wall of your box, and clamp the rigid pipes to the unistrut with strut clamps.

Put a 5' wireway in the box fastened to the base or back of the box.  The pipes will come in the top of the wireway.

You should really consider using low voltage lights, this just makes everything safer and gives you much more flexibility.  You can find low voltage lamps that will fit the Edison base, or just use a different base.  You could do this without the wireway if you were so inclined - just splice the 12V wires in your wooden box.  You could epoxy the sockets in the black pipe if so inclined.  You could use actual black pipe with floor flanges.


Generally speaking, when is it necessary to install a sub-panel for providing electricity to an outside shed/office?

As far as I understand it, since the 2002 version of National Electrical Code, only a single branch circuit or feeder is allowed to supply a building (225.30). Though it's possible that your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) allows it under one of the exceptions, or there are local amendments.

There's also the consideration that the NEC requires a disconnect at the building (225.31), so installing a panel may make more sense.

It's possible that the Electrician is going to install a single 20 ampere multi-wire branch circuit, which would be allowed under 225.30. Though he's still going to have to install a disconnect at the building.

To answer your question. The first reason to install a second panel, is to allow for future expansion. Though this doesn't seem to be important in your situation.

The second reason is simplicity. You can only have one branch circuit or feeder, and you need a disconnect. It just may be easier to install the second panel.


How to extend a 2x6 joist to accommodate a hanger board for stairs?

I am going to assume the opening for the stairs is on the far side of the picture.

I'd skip the ties and use 2x12 hangers on the posts.  If you have this area open you might want to tie the 2x6 joists to the 4x4 posts using ties for seismic/wind though.

Why does the current board not work?


You should seek the advice from a recognized medical practitioner. You wouldn't place your health and well-being on the answers of people who drink beer and chew tobacco all day would you? If I had to offer an answer I would suggest that if you notice any type of petroleum or other noxious fumes it would be wise not to do aerobics there.


Even with your power factor shift it is not that large over all most motors have a power factor of 80 or better.  The vast majority of loads are resistive or inductive not only in residential but industrial also, yes there are some high capacitive loads but they are rare.
Harmonics actually are more of a concern for multiwire branch circuits on 3 phase systems as the harmonics can cause the neutral to become overloaded I have measured this but rarely found it to be at a hazard level.
An example of this would be 23 amps measured on a #12 neutral yes that is overloaded but there is a huge safety factor you can see this by seeing that a controls cabinet wiring 12 awg can handle 60 amps beyond the enclosure 120 amps inside (now that’s crazy) to see these values with your own eyes NEC table 430.72.B
We try and limit the harmonic overloading in many cases it is only at startup when it’s the worst then it drops down to normal levels.
I have never found a problem with multiwire branch circuits being overloaded on the neutral and prior to GFCI’s being required everywhere I used to use them all the time. So yes in theory you could overload the neutral but with the safety factors built into code reality is you won’t overload split phase. Harmonic overload is very possible on 3 phase but not normally a hazard on branch circuits.


Rewiring a switch controlled receptacle to a ceiling fan

Based on your description, it sounds like your wiring is this.

To wire the fan, you will need to remove the switched loop and convert it to a regular wire.  So in the outlet box, disconnect the neutrals and hots.  Wire cap all 3 neutrals together with a pig tail to reconnect the outlet, do the same for the hots.  At the switch, remove the neutral from the switch and wire cap that with the neutral to the light.  Then put the hot to the light where the neutral was on the switch.  Like so.

I did not add grounds in the picture but they should be wire capped together in each box with a ground wire to the outlet and switch.


What to use to seal around fixtures when tanking a drywall bathroom?

You probably want to start with tanking tape, and use caulk for the final seal.

https://youtu.be/IwR-vS4xc9g?t=9m15s


Why are sink-mounted garbage disposal units usually banned in Europe but allowed in the US?

Part One: valid reasons
Different communities will  have built different sewage treatment facilities, with different design load capacities. There are newer communities in various spots in the USA which actually require food waste to be Dispos-al-ed, as this cuts down on edible waste in dumps (reducing gas emission and vermin population). Their treatment facilities were built with capacity in mind. Other communities, or older regions, do not have such capacity and need to minimize the amount of solid waste in the sewer system.
Part Two  actual reasons
Sadly,  many laws and regulations get passed with the best of intentions, and 5or 10 or 50 years later the world has changed.  Getting a legislature to review and fix old laws is almost as difficult as getting quarks to exist as solo particles.


Possibly Asbestos Contaminated Washer! What do I do?

I wouldn't worry so much about it. Wipe it down as best you can and then run a few empty cycles to flush the machine. The wastewater goes... well assuming you are in a relatively modern area with relatively modern infrastructure... to a treatment plant along with myriad other nasty stuff.
While it is true that any exposure to friable asbestos should be avoided, data shows that the real risk is chronic (i.e. prolonged) exposure as would occur in industrial or job-specific exposure scenarios.


How do I ensure my wood screws have a minimum of 120 lbs pull out or shear strength?

The pull-out strength of a wood screw is going to be more dependent on the wood into which it is installed than on the material of the screw. The geometry of the screw thread also plays a role. "Cheap" screws therefore aren't what you need to worry about, instead, focus on the screw size.

Pull-out happens when you have a shear failure of the wood. A couple of formulas have been proposed to make an estimate of holding power

The Forest Products Lab of the US Department of Agriculture proposes the following:

p=15700*G^2*D*L

where p is the pull out force in pounds; G is the specific gravity of the wood (density of the wood divided by the density of water, see table 5-3 here); D is the shank diameter of the screw in inches; L is the penetration of the threaded part of the screw in inches. (Assumes reasonable pilot hole, screw into side-grain, etc...I haven't communicated all the nuance here. If your application is important enough to be calculating the pullout load, read the whole relevant section of the source document.)

Others have proposed a simple formula (stated incorrectly after the link, corrected here by me) related directly to the shear strength of the wood:

p=pi*D*L*S

where p is again the pullout strength; pi=3.14; D is the diameter of the screw, L is the length of engaged threads, and S is the shear strength of the wood. (make sure your shear strength is in units compatible with your length, e.g. if your length is in inches, your shear strength should be in PSI).

This simpler formula idealizes things and assumes that all the load is carried by a cylindrical region of the wood that is the diameter and length of the embedded screw threads (the pi*D*L above is the area of this surface). If you use this formula, be sure to reduce the actual load by a generous safety factor of 2 or more.

Personally, I'd read the FPL report and use the first formula.


Large vertical crack at end of concrete block wall

Concrete cracks. The fact that the crack reappeared after a cosmetic repair attempt is no surprise. If the wall was reinforced properly when built I wouldn’t be too concerned but you definitely want to get a structural engineer’s opinion. The only part about it that causes me pause is that it’s so close to an outside corner with a potentially heavy bearing load on it.


Is 150 CFM ventilation fan right choice for bathroom in my older condo?

Calculate the CFM Needed.   (Length X Width X Height)/7.5  (7 x 5 x 8)/7.5 = 37.3 CFM   Did the 7x5 include a Shower/tub area too? If so, the 50 CFM should be fine.

That Fan is a bit overkill for your bathroom, that said Mine is a 190CFM for the same size.  The issue you are going to run into is that the fan you chose has a 6" Duct coming from it.

Typically fans from a Bathroom are 3" or 4" for something that size. It would be Similar to your Dryer Vent where it Exits the house, so that should give you an Idea.   If you can get the Part number of the Existing Fan and look it up you should be able to google it to determine its Duct Size.   There are Downsize collars that would downsize the 6" to 3 or 4" though that is not recommended as you will cause back pressure on the Fan as it can't push the required CFM out the smaller hole. If your Duct run was less than 2' you might get away with it, but if not you would probably void the fan warranty.

Find the Duct you have and then get a Fan that Supports its.


How do I effectively fill gaps with between window mesh and window frame?

The foam weatherstripping you linked is 1.5 inches (38 mm) wide. Just turn it sideways and attach it to the face of the bottom of the screen instead of to the top of the sill. If you had 0.5 inches (12.5 mm) of material hanging off the bottom of the window you'd still have 1 inch (25 mm) of material stuck to the frame. I'd put some staples in it just to make sure it doesn't fall off, but you're not looking for a super tight seal here, just something to stop bugs from crawling in.
:EDIT: - Like this:


Need a way to rotate a chandelier *without* rotating its mounting point

You probably can use a universal mounting plate (sometimes called a crossbar)

These come in various configurations.

You can usually thread bolts downward and hold them in place with nuts. These will be used to hold the chandelier. Then mount the plate to the box, rotate to adjust the angle you want. Then mount the fixture to the plate.

This works with fixtures up to a moderate weight. It should not be used with very heavy fixtures and definitely not with a fan.


If you've had problems with water damage in your basement before, there is a really good chance that you have mold. The downside is, it can be hard to detect mold on your own since it can grown within the walls or under carpet. You can buy a mold test kit from somewhere like Home Depot to check on your own. I would probably start there if I were you and if you see you have a problem, then I would probably call a professional. Especially if you've noticed a decrease in air quality in your basement.


How can I prevent my washing machine's drain hose from detaching from the pipe?

It's possible that it just fell out.  Repeated heat/cool cycles plus the force of the water exiting the hose could have broken the bond to the duct tape.

The duct tape could be serving two purposes.

To hold the hose into the drain pipe.  Judging by the amount of tape this may not be the first time it has happened.
If there is no trap in the drain line, the duct tape could be a DIY attempt to block sewer gas from escaping.


Repair a popped up brick in an otherwise level brick patio

This is a far easier job than you may think.

First, pry out the brick. An old screwdriver will help. Stick it in one end to pry up, then the other end. Before long you will work it out. Once it is high enough, you can grab it with your hand, pulling straight up. You will want to remove a couple of bricks in that area, since there is a root to deal with. Of course, once the first brick is out, its neighbors will come out easily.

Once removed, deal with the root. Cut/shave it back with an old hatchet perhaps. (Yes, it will dull the blade, digging in the dirt. I did say to use an old hatchet.) And, don't worry, the parent tree will survive this bit of surgery.

Now, pack the area with stone dust. You can buy this by the bagful from your local home center for only a few dollars. (In a pinch, sand is ok, but it does not pack as well.) Bring this back to a perfect level. As you put a bit of the dust in, I'd tamp it down using the end of one of the bricks you just removed. You want this underlayment fully packed in, with no voids. Later settling is something you don't want. So I might lay down a half inch of dust, then tamp it in, then another layer of dust. Finally, smooth it out using a small trowel if you have one, or just the edge of one of those bricks. Get the level of the underlayment just right, so that when you replace the brick it will be perfect.

Now lay down the bricks in place again. A rubber mallet is good here as a tool of "persuasion", in case any are too high. Tap on all of the bricks to make sure they are settled in. If a brick is too low, pull it out, and add some more stone dust. You want the final surface to be as smooth as a babies bottom. Trip points are to be avoided here.

When the bricks are back in place, lay down some more of the stone dust on top, and sweep back and forth with a push broom. Work the dust into the cracks between the bricks. This locks them in place. It may require another pass with the push broom and more stone dust in a few days to fill in the cracks, or after the first good rain.

In all, expect this to be an easy job though, taking perhaps 30 minutes to do the complete repair.


If you put a current meter one leg, it reads 10A; if you put it on the other leg, it also reads 10A. But that does NOT mean there is "20A" in the circuit. The current in the two wires is not additive. Current flows from one point to another through the CIRCUIT, and the circuit consists of those two wires.


What might be causing our cistern to fill very slowly?

Some dirt or sediment is probably in the valve within the toilet itself. Here's a video of the repair on two types of valves. The important part is to get the valve opened up, clean off the washers, run a little water through the system, and reassemble.


Thermostat C Wire (Possibly Unconnected)

You need to open the air handler and confirm the wiring. Never trust the color of the wires. If I had to guess in a hurry in a panic situation I would try the blue connection. But you are right in front of it. You are two screws away from confirmation.

Shut the power off at the switch first.

  How to tell if your B wire is really a common wire in disguise:

  Read through the manual for your old thermostat.
  If you have the manual for your thermostat (or can find it online), it may describe the function associated with the B connector and help you determine if it’s meant for a heat pump wire or a common wire.

  Does your thermostat have a connector labeled C?
  Whether or not there is a wire attached to it, if your thermostat has a separate connector labeled C in addition to a connector labeled B, then the wire labeled B should be connected to the O/B connector when installing the Nest Learning Thermostat or to the /OB connector when installing the Nest Thermostat E.

  Do you have a heat pump?
  It helps to know what kind of system you have. If you have a heat pump and you don’t have a separate wire labeled O, then the wire labeled B should be connected to the Nest Learning Thermostat's O/B connector or to the Nest Thermostat E’s /OB connector.

  What color is the wire labeled B?
  While the color of the wires connected to a thermostat often don’t adhere to industry standards, they can provide a clue in situations where you’re still uncertain about the function of a wire labeled B. If your thermostat doesn’t have a separate connector labeled C, and you’re not sure what type of system you have, make a note of the wire color connected to B. A brown wire is mostly likely a heat pump wire and should be connected to the O/B connector on the Nest Learning Thermostat or the /OB connector on the Nest Thermostat E. But if the B wire is blue, it should most likely be connected to the C connector.

That's from Nests website

I don't work with heat pumps enough to say "yes connect to B"

I would look at how the system is wired up and determine if it's suitable as a common.

There is one terminal in the image that is not visible, is it a C terminal?

EDIT

To conclude,

This is as far as I know, unique to Trane heat pumps. Trane only employs the O terminal for the reverseing valve and do not mark or identify a C terminal and substitute it with the B terminal. Seems odd to me but Trane does do some weird things.

Anyway you should be good to go on the air handler B terminal.


As a commercial electrician I feel confident in a few things about this. Contact and electrician. You have several variables that need to be evaluated by someone with experience and the proper equipment.

Don't force the situation. It could be something simple like a failed breaker, or something more complex that could mean replacing pump parts, wiring, and so on.

Don't take the chance, bring in a professional.


I'm not sure where you got the idea that your furnace will self-destruct if you don't run it as much, but it's not going to.

Unless the second unit is insulated, you'll probably just end up heating it anyways.


How do I wire a GFCI combination light switch when power enters at the light?

Unfortunately, you can't.  For a GFCI outlet to protect other devices they have to come after the GFCI outlet in the circuit.  The power (hot and neutral wires) have to enter the outlet on the terminals labeled "line," and leave the outlet on the terminals labeled "load." This way the GFCI outlet can measure the power running to your light on the black wire and returning from your light on the white wire, which is the whole purpose of the GFCI.  If those two measurements aren't the same, it turns off.   Putting a jumper (what you're calling a "pigtail") between the Line and Load terminals on the device end would effectively bypass the GFCI functions inside the outlet altogether. Connecting the neutral wire coming from your breaker box in the same wire nut with the neutral feeding your light AND feeding the GFCI device will give the electrons leaving your light a direct path back to your breaker box, meaning that they never flow back through the GFCI.  It will trip and refuse to reset as long as the light is on, assuming it works at all.

If you want that light to be GFCI protected, you will have to re-run the wire from your breaker box so that it enters the box for the GFCI first.  Alternatively, you could splice a second cable to the line in your light box and run it over to the device and then use the black and white from the existing 3 conductor wire to take the power back from the device to the light (with the black wire connected to one pole of the switch and a black jumper from the gold "load" terminal on the outlet to the other terminal on the switch).  Either way, you have to run additional wiring.  It just depends whether it's easier to add a new cable between the device and the light or to run a new cable from the breaker box to the device.

Put another way, if you want to protect things "downstream" using a GFCI outlet, you have to have at least 4 conductors present in the box, and you only have 3.


What is the purpose of this grounding screw in a plastic electrical box?

The bare ground wire in the electrical box is supposed to connect to the green screw on that short metal bar. The body of the light fixture is meant to be grounded through the mounting screw that goes into that metal bar. Do be aware that this technique of grounding the light fixture would have been the technique used in older installations. These days a light fixture will have a separate green or bare grounding wire that can be connected directly to the bare copper wire in the electrical box.

You may want to inspect that old light fixture and see if there is an existing screw or mounting hole to which you can add a separate grounding wire. You would then connect this added wire to the bare ground wire in the electrical box.


Should I put a surge protector on the 110v to my Trane furnace

I would recommend a whole house surge suppressor. They can be attached to your existing panel. If you have extra space in the panel and depending on the type of panel, you can get them that plug right into 2 side by side poles. Otherwise they can be attached to a double pole breaker. They come in various types and protection ratings. Of course the greater the protection, the greater the price.

With as much electronic devices and coprocessors that are now in a residence. It doesn't hurt to have a little protection that could save you thousands of dollars. Even if you house is insured, consider the deductible and the hassle of replacing everything after a major surge and damage.

Good luck.


Why does US Code not allow a 15A single receptacle on a 20A circuit?

Let me give some framework around what ThreePhaseEel said.
I can understand wondering that, since UK appliances all have fuses in their plugs, and I bet the fuses are sized to protect the appliance.
The US doesn't have those. It depends on reasonably close matching between receptacle and fuse/breaker protection. Thus, the general rule is that receptacles must match breakers: 15A must be 15A, 30A must be 30A, and 50A must be 50A.
Now there are 2 exceptions.  To brush aside the other one, NEMA stubbornly refuses* to define a standard for a 40A receptacle, so 40A circuits must out of sheer necessity use 50A receps.
The other is allowing 15A receps on 20A circuits.  (the reverse is out of the question).   Note that it's already the case that 15A appliances with 15A plugs are allowed on 20A circuits; just take a look at the socket keying.

NEMA 6 is our standard for 240V appliances; the same rules apply.  See how 20A sockets are keyed to accept 15A plugs.  Even on a 1-socket dedicated 20A circuit, 15A appliances are allowed.
Really, we have two separate use-cases here.
General-use branch circuits.  As you know, the ubiquitous American recep is the NEMA 5-15.  Most of the time, those are made as duplex (two socket) receps, and are on circuits that have many sockets - typically 3 to 12 yokes (a yoke is the physical chassis that fits in a standard 1-gang box) so 6-24 sockets.  And most things plugged into them are low current - fans, cell phone chargers, TVs, etc.  In this "general use appliance" application, long experience is that 20A is "close enough" to 15A that such appliances are unlikely to find useful protection by being fused at 15A rather than 20A.  UL wouldn't approve an appliance that senstitive, anyway, or would require it to have internal fusing.  (note that US Christmas light strings have fuses in the plug - yes, our dainty little plugs).

Dedicated circuits.  Some appliances (think: built-in microwaves; air conditioners) are such heavy draw that they cannot share a circuit - i.e. they are running near circuit limits, or if continuous, near 80% of circuit limit  Yet it is reasonable not to hardwire them and have them cord-and-plug connected. (e.g. a window air conditioner that might be removed every winter, back when they were inefficient).  UL requires such circuits state in their instructions that they require a dedicated circuit.  That is where simplex (1-socket) receptacles are typically used.  When an appliance has such heavy draw, it makes more sense to require a close match between receptacle and breaker.  So effectively UL is dictating the circuit protection.
It's a bit of a tag-team operation: our Electrical Code requires you used approved equipment (110.2), approvers defer to UL, UL writes the appliance design rules, UL certifies the appliances as safe, UL certifies the instructions and labeling, and Code requires that you obey them (110.3b).

*The reason they won't is:  (rewind: in Europe, they standardized on 416V "wye"  or 240V leg-neutral - while it makes for a more dangerous residential power, it allows easy 3-phase distribution and is strong enough for industrial needs; this means you only need one power system)  Whereas Thomas Edison married the US to this lower-voltage split-phase thing.  To work around its limitations, we went to a wide variety of schemes: 208/120V "wye" 3-phase, 240V "wild-leg" delta, and 480V delta (277V leg-neutral), just to name a few. As a result we have a huge variety of socket families, and they must ALL reject each other. So finding a new pin arrangement is like trying to find a .COM domain name lol.


How to tell if clothes dryer temperature control is working?

I cannot find the temps but the part number 1370 gas valve has multiple parts 1371 thru 1376, there are 2 solenoid valves parts of the gas valve I am not sure if each solenoid has a separate orifice to control the gas flow one large 1 small but this looks to be the only control I could find,  The only sensor I can find in the assembly is 1379 but it looks like an over temp sensor .


I usually approach this (by throwing some light on the subject :)  ) by deciding the activity and necessary light level in the areas concerned.

See:

https://www.archdaily.com/897277/how-to-determine-how-many-led-lumens-youll-need-to-properly-light-your-space

(https://www.noao.edu/education/QLTkit/ACTIVITY_Documents/Safety/LightLevels_outdoor+indoor.pdf  - this is more for a professional situation roads, offices etc)

Then once you have that, you can take the output of the light(s) you intend to use and divide light level by lamp output. This gives you the number of lights.

If they don't fit nicely into the space available then find a light with a higher (or lower) output to get a neat number & spacing.

Of course, you can get away with some margin of error on the numbers but do remember that darker walls tend to need more light.

Also consider that if some need to do fine work (needlework etc) in their comfy chairs then the light level needs to be higher - but you can get that with extra lamps.


How can I store a paint roller for a second coat?

Wrap the roller in aluminium foil. Or in cling film. I've stored rollers this way for 2 weeks, though you do risk it getting a bit dry and crusty at the edges for that sort of longer period. For 2 hours you'll be fine.

The point of wrapping it is to stop air getting to (or getting away from) the paint that's on the roller. Solvent paint (i.e. most paint) dries by evaporating the solvent into the air - if there's no air it can't easily evaporate.

(If you're in the US, feel free to use aluminum foil or saran wrap instead...)


Can I rest floor joists on a ledger lying under the beams?

No. Your joists must bear on the beam directly, using hangers or actually resting on it. Even if you'd bolt the ledger up to the bottom of the beam you'd be relying on cross-grain strength. Not a good situation.

As to your beam sizing question, that's for an engineer to answer (with drawings in hand). We don't have enough information about the structure as a whole to properly answer that. I can speculate, since 2x8 lumber isn't used for floor systems anymore, that even tripled you wouldn't meet most codes.


Should Rabbet Widths be relative to the width of a Frame or are absolute values adequate?

Shifts in humidity will cause the frame to expand and contract across its width; the wider the frame the more it will expand. i.e. The wood total movement will be a small percentage the piece's overall size. So a four inch frame with a two inch rabbet will be much more likely to separate at the corners than a 2.375 inch frame with a 3/8" rabbet, despite them looking identical if the rabbet is covered by the frame contents.

Apropos larger cuts, shapers are larger than routers and spin knives rather than bits which allows them to do most of what can be done on a router table on a larger scale or in fewer passes. Large rabbets in a home shop would usually be done on the table saw or jointer though.

Using a dado stack on table saw you can take off just under an inch at a time. By moving the fence after each pass you can make a rabbet up to saw's ripping capacity. For shallower, wider rabbets you can cut them on most jointers up to the width of the cutter head. (6" at the smallest) So there are a variety of options for cutting rabbets beyond what your router does. [Technically you could hog off a huge on with multiple router passes, with sufficient time and patience.]


Dealing with non square wall and non-planable vanity cabinet

Ideally when you set a stand-alone cabinet you have a scribe on both of the ends that contact the wall like so (dimensions are exaggerated for clarity):

Not often are you going to find integral scribes on a store bought vanity but you can add your own after the fact and that gives you the chances to set the piece to the median square of the corner and conform to any hinkyness relative to plum as well. Note the L-shape of the scribe, this gives you a place to run screws and still be able to plane or sand the scribe edge.

Once you've scribed in your cabinet you can set your top, splitting the difference from square so as to maintain the 1" (usually) over hang on the cab.

If the gap when split is less than an 1/8" it's probably acceptable to caulk it and then tile around it if you so choose. If the gap is bigger than 1/4" (between an 1/8 and a 1/4 is debatable) you can consider scribing the c-top into place but it will require a diamond grinding wheel and nerves of steel. You may want to consult a professional stone mason on that one. The biggest problem is you're adding scribe to the cabinet and loosing depth and width on your top which is subtracting from your overhang so you'll have to be judicious. Anything less than say a 1/2" of overhang will look odd. It should be noted that this kind of problem would require your wall to be out of square by 1/2" over 30"-36"? depending on your vanity. That's a lot. If that's the case, you might want to consider fixing your walls before you begin setting cabinets. If the problem is just an acute build up of compound in the corner, you may be able to scrape off the mud where needed but if you have to start cutting in to the drywall below the paper, its not worth it. Best of luck!


I have a wood stove in the lower floor of my house. I cut a vent size opening and installed a temperature activated fan that blew the heat into the intake duct. I started out with just the opening but found the fan made a big difference. When I ran my stove I turned the furnace fan on and the wood stove kept the house warm. On really cold days or if I was too lazy to start a fire the furnace took over. I did add smoke detectors in each bedroom just in case smoke got into the intake, that never happened and it cut my heating bill over 250/month.


Outlets are half voltage and/or don't work

A picture of the main panel would be helpful. But it sounds like at some level - either in the panel or possibly before the panel you "lost a leg" - that would result in 240 --> 120 and 1/2 of your 120 --> 0. If that is really the case, CALL YOUR UTILITY COMPANY as it can be a very serious problem. The big question is whether the problem is caused by something inside your house (for your electrician to fix) or outside (which the utility will fix, usually quickly and for free).


Well you better return it because it is designed to be run off 3 phase not single phase.  You can contact the manufacturer and ask if it can be run off single phase using different wiring they may support that but I seriously doubt it.


Wet blocks AFTER French drain and weep holes

It sounds like your water table is very close to the floor level. It's not necessarily damaging to the concrete, after all hydration is what actually cures concrete and concrete peirs are largely unaffected even after hundreds of years sitting in water. Lumber and your possessions in the house are of a concern. I would suspect that you would benift from at least a sump pump and even better, a weeping system tied into the sump pump.


What advantages does bending copper pipes have over joining many parts without brazing?

Fewer points of failure
Bending results in fewer high risk failure points.
A continuously bent pipe has 2 high risk failure points. Whereas a similar length of pipe made with a bunch of fittings, has 2 high risk failure points per fitting.
Quieter
Bending a radius will provide less resistance within the pipe, so water will flow smoother. In a pressurized system, this means water flow is quieter.
Thanks @kavisiegel


Painting hinges is not a question of being better or worse. Depending on the motif, hinge finishes are often selected to complement the door or trim color.  For example: brass metal finish often used with tan trim/doors or natural wood finishes.  Chrome or brushed nickel hardware is popular with white trim/doors.  Hinges and passage sets come in a lot of different metal and colored finishes.

If you do decide to paint the hinges, resist the temptation to simply paint them in place. It is difficult to evenly paint all the surfaces of a hinge and not fill the slots of the screws. When painted in place, the paint will often chip if it dries and bridges the joints of the hinge. It tends to chip when you first open/close the door. I really try to avoid painting hinges, but when I paint new, previously unpainted hinges, I remove them, clean them well, spray paint them, screws included.


I'd have to say get an HVAC guy or firm. My first thought is that they could relocate this one under the stairs & have it suck through the side wall of the stair's stud bay. My 2nd thought is to add the stair stud wall as a 2nd smaller return, but then also move & shrink the floor one away from the stairs if there's another 4 or 6' away it could be.

The idea is that there should be a large sound reduction by getting that return out of the direct line of the HVAC fan's draw. You'd be getting rid of the direct sound path of the fan motor & fan, but also adding distance between you & the fan noise & splitting the suction whoosh in half. Definitely, see what they say. I don't see any of the other options doing anything, just like what you've tried & determined already.


You need a 12/3+ground cable as a minimum to support this oven. However it would be a nice future-proofing trick to run 10/3+ground.

You can also run individual wires in conduit if you prefer, for the ultimate future-proofing. I would run 3/4" conduit, or 1" if able, as that will support any foreseeable future oven/range.

You must run neutral and ground separately.

Since this oven has a conduit whip, you will need to use a conduit connector and hardwire the oven to the junction box.

The breaker must be 20A.

There needs to be a junction box in the wall or mounted to the wall.  I recommend a 4-11/16" steel square  box because it has lots of room for future expansion, but a 4" square by 2-1/8" deep box will also suffice.  This is high current stuff that will arc spectaularly, so it's no time to be fooling with plastic boxes.  Metal boxes conduct heat well, spread heat instead of burning through, and will forestall a fire.

You can get a variety of front faceplates for either box to accommodate  whatever you need - e.g. A NEMA 14-20 socket, or a blank cover plate with a knockout hole for mounting that wire whip.

Wire nuts are perfectly fine if they are properly done - use Ideal brand as they are electricians' favorites, this is the one time that "gorilla tight" is OK, and give the nuts a firm pull test (hold nut, yank each wire in turn).  If you need tape to make it pass a pull test, that is bad technique, fix the technique.

I have never seen a disconnect switch for an oven.


Grounding tails are available (thanks @batsplatsterson), but you could also buy some copper wire; either on a reel or by the foot, and make your own.

As a quick rule of thumb, you should use the same size grounding conductor, as the largest ungrounded (hot) conductor used in that circuit. So you're probably looking at using 14, or 12 AWG wire for switches.

You'll want to use either bare copper, or green insulated wire. Solid or stranded makes no difference, as long as it's the proper size. Some will argue one way or the other about connecting solid to stranded, stranded to stranded, solid to solid, stranded to screw terminals, solid to screw terminals, etc.  In reality, if done properly, it really makes no difference.   Follow the manufacturer's documentation on all the equipment you're using, and you should have no problems.

As for the actual procedure of grounding the switches and box.

Connect a short length of grounding wire to the ground terminal of each switch/device in the box.
Connect a short length of grounding wire to the metal box, using a screw in the threaded hole in the back of the box.
Using an adequate connector, connect together the grounding wire from the box, the switches/devices, and all other grounding conductors in the box.


How to block out light though a sliding glass door

I would just treat it like a sliding glass door to the outside and hang the blinds of choice or some sort of black out curtain as mentioned above. A more long term solution would be to change from a slider to french doors that have the blinds or louvers built into the window portion of the door.


Each new light bulb for my oven doesn't last long

I appreciated everyone's comments and wanted to follow up with what seems to be the answer.

My latest bulb has not burned out, and it has been 10+ months.

Apparently I'd simply had a streak of bad luck with the bulbs I'd bought.

My hypothesis that my usage or lack of usage of air conditioning in various seasons affected the electricity of the oven seems to be incorrect.

Thanks for all the tips you posted, though.


For ordinary casual woodworking and household maintenance, almost any drill bit is sufficient. Fancy coatings make little difference for light-duty use. "Split points" can make drilling in exactly the right place easier on difficult materials; I haven't noticed much difference when drilling wood.

The kind of bit, in larger sizes, will make more difference -- above half an inch you start having to choose between spade bits (inexpensive), hole saws (mid priced, cleaner cuts), and Forstner-and-similar (more expensive, clean holes, can do some things neither of the others can,  but drill sliwer than hole saws; they're more often used on drill presses), or a few other less-common variations in the theme. (I own bits in all three of those categories, for different tasks).

I haven't used impact drivers enough to have opinions on those yet.


How to build canted riser for queen mattress?

"My wife has found that sleeping on an incline helps. I'm trying to test this." To confirm her findings, or that you can sleep on it? --Two cinder-blocks and one brick makes for 20 inches to test it. Confirm this and then proceed. Personally, I'd build it like a deck:

The structure using 2x6's or larger, joist hangers, blocking, and on 16" centers. With 3/4" cabinet grade plywood as the 'deck' and sides, finished with poly. Keep in mind that unless you own a table saw or (even) a very nice circular saw, the angled 'faces' will be hard to cleanly cut. Try to keep the factory edge at the top, where it will show the most. Ripping the angles on the joists isn't going to be fun without one, either.

Kind of like this (not exactly built the way I mentioned), but the pitch makes it angled, it doesn't 'account' for it, like in the picture:


Unfortunately there is no way to fix this issue from the inside.  Any product you apply will only temporarily fix the problem of water infiltration through the wall.  The only fix that will work is to excavate around the perimeter, install a drain to carry the excess water away, and apply a product to the outside of the wall that will seal it and another to provide a path for any water that reaches the barrier to flow down to the drain.

I see that you are concerned about excavating your driveway but there is no other choice.


Yes, the terminal labeled C on the transformer is where you want to connect the C wire to the thermostat.  However, you'll want to make sure that the transformer is large enough to also supply power to the thermostat.  If the thermostat draws too much power, you could end up burning out your transformer.  It might also be a good idea to put an appropriately sized fuse in line with the R wire.


Can I run a new ground wire from junction box in attic down the wall to replace 2 prong outlet

This is fine, provided you're under a new enough Code

The 2014 NEC added a new point 4 in 250.130(C):

  (C) Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch
  Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor
  of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension
  shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following:

  (1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50

  (2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor

  (3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or
  branch circuit originates

  (4) An equipment grounding conductor that is part of another branch circuit that originates from the enclosure
  where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch
  circuit originates

  (5) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor
  within the service equipment enclosure

  (6) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar
  within the service equipment enclosure

that, along with 250.134(B) exception 1:

  Exception No. 1: As provided in 250.130(C), the equipment grounding conductor shall be permitted to be run
  separately from the circuit conductors.

lets you do precisely what you are describing (running a separate ground wire to an existing point on the equipment grounding system originating from the same panel).

The minimum wire needed for this is a 14AWG bare or green (THHN) wire, but I would use a Bare Armored Ground cable instead (to make it clear to future remodelers that this isn't something they can just cut through willy-nilly).  You will also need the Bare Armored Ground cable if it's exposed to physical damage to comply with the protection requirements of 250.120(C).


What is the best way to remove and reuse wooden fence boards?

Flat prybar:

(Almost self explanatory, but...)

Just reach over the top, get a flat prybar between the top rail and the board, pry the top off, then pull the top down - the board may pull the nails out of the rail, or you may have to use the prybar again on the bottom.  This will leave the nails with the boards, drive them back out by hitting the points from the back, and pull them out with pliers or a nail puller.

After the first one, you'll be able to easily get between the rail and the board top and bottom and it should go pretty fast.

If the wood's rotten or very soft, the heads may tear through.  The first one is probably the one most likely to get mangled so pick an ugly one.  This isn't exactly restoration architect technique, but it should work.

Another gentler way is to get a small hole saw just bigger than the nail head, and cut around each nail.  With a good hole saw and cordless drill this will actually go pretty fast.  This will leave holes in the boards but they will be perfectly round and easy to plug if need be.


A Radiant Barrier would be an alternative to insulation in terms of reducing heat flow. It does not depend on the thickness of material, just the barrier facing an airspace. If the interior and exterior surfaces of the dormer are not thermally coupled, this would help to reduce heat conduction and also improve efficiency.


Are magnetic bit holders interchangable?

I have bits from Bosch, Makita and DeWalt but also many cheap ones.
They all fit into various holders from the above names as well as some no-name ones.
The magnetic hold is different on all holders - some are strong and will hold suitable screws while others “just” manage to hold the bit.


Troubleshooting electric pump that triggers GFCI

It's not about a short.  It's about insulation leakage.  Tear it down and look for any place where electricity is able to contact where it should not, or places where debris is able to form a conductive path where it should not.   You can paint it with insulating paint, or epoxy.


What is the purpose of this Y shaped bit?

It's a bit for screwing in eye bolts, or hooks.

Attach the bit to your driver handle or power driver.
Fit the eye bolt into the groove.
Screw the bolt in/out, without hurting your fingers.

The list of bits in this set, lists it as a "Y-shape hook driver".


What submersible adhesive is watertight and durable?

I would think a marine grade epoxy should do the trick for you. It would definitely be waterproof and it's made to hold up under the stresses of a moving boat, and to hold up to salt water which is much harsher than the fresh water in your rain barrel


Is my plan to safely remove asbestos siding sound?

WHAT...??? You can do this. You’re working on the outside of the house so you don’t need a tent or fans. (They have the fans going the wrong way anyway.  If you were working inside the house, you want negative pressure not positive pressure. This is obviously not their forte.)

Keep it wet and try to do it without breaking it.

Stop by an asbestos abatement company and pick up a few disposal bags and find out how much it will cost you to have them dispose of your pieces of siding.


Why isn't the hot water in my shower hot enough?

The troubleshooting section in the installation guide would indicate 2 things.  First, you've likely backed the limit screw out too far - assuming the water pressure on the hot and cold sides are similar between the two showers, they should be set in the same range.  Second (and more directly related to your issue), you should pull the spindle assembly and make sure it is clear of debris and calcium deposits.


How do I identify make / model of this kitchen faucet?

It is an American Standard "Cadet" MODEL NUMBER: 6425
http://www.americanstandard-us.com/kitchen-faucets/Cadet-Two-Handle-Kitchen-Faucet-2197/


Proper way to hang valance over kitchen window between cabinets

Valances usually sit on a couple of beefy L-brackets that are double screwed into the wall (preferably at wall studs or window header). Once the L-brackets are solid you literally just slide the valance with installed curtain or drape assembly onto them to then install a single screw through the top of the 'L'... so the valance can't slide off.

As far as width of the valance goes, it's up to you. I prefer the curtains/drapes to dictate the width and have them withdraw into their own pockets to pull back to the trim (maybe 2-inches in your case, depending upon hardware stacking). So, you don't have to fight them for tilt-in glass cleaning.


Why is the circuit breaker for my furnace stuck in the off position?

If you physically cannot flip it either to off or on (try off first), then it's broken and needs to be replaced.


The Chromagen Eternity 26 is an on-demand hot water heater. Since it does not store water, it does not normally run except when you use water. If everything is connected properly, it also won't run in normal use in your case as long as the storage tank below it has sufficient solar-heated water to meet your needs. If the storage tank water is too cold (either because the solar is just not heating the water enough, or if you have used up the hot water and now the tank has cold water), then the Chromagen will provide additional heat as needed.

The Chromagen has electronic ignition. There is no pilot light wasting gas when you aren't using it. The control board uses a little bit of electricity to monitor the temperature & water flow, even if the system is not currently being asked to heat water. The manual specifically advises against disconnecting electricity & gas because if you do so and there is a freeze then the unit may be damaged, and that damage would not be covered by the warranty. Even if the warranty has expired, I think this is very good advice. If the temperature stays above freezing then you do not save any gas and only save a little bit of electricity by leaving the unit running normally. On the other hand, if there is a freeze then the little bit of gas needed to run the system periodically will far outweigh the cost of fixing the unit after pipes crack.

Leave it connected normally. You can turn any relevant thermostats down to the minimum, but otherwise leave it alone.

If you turn off electricity & gas for the entire house, the unit will be OK, as long as you don't have a freeze. In my area (Maryland, USA) it is normal practice to leave the furnace & water heater on at their lowest settings when going away in the winter, just in case.


Why is the spigot on my oil heater dripping?

Is it the spigot, or is there leakage from a corroded boiler?
If you determined it's the valve that's leaking, you'll need to:

Shut the electricity to the heating system to prevent it running while dry.
Shut the cold-water feed to the boiler.
Drain the whole heating system through that valve... you could run a garden hose to the fitting once it's cooled.
Replace the washer in the valve, just like you would a faucet valve.
Close the repaired valve.
Open the valve to the cold-water feed slowly.
Check for leaks.
Once the system is filled at bottom, purge air from baseboard convectors or radiators. This is a bit of a nuisance, since each valve at each heater must be opened until air stops hissing, and water starts to drip. Failure to do so will restrict heat to some areas of the house. Purging may need to be repeated after the system runs for a while!
Turn the electricity on again.
Turn up the temperature at the room thermostat and check that heat is coming out of all the convectors/radiators.

Yep, what a pain it is to replace one washer.


You could install a direct vent, wall mounted, sealed combustion, heater that requires no electricity and can be fired with your existing natural gas service or a separate propane source fuel. They are readily available through a myriad of supply houses like Home Depot, Lowes, Graingers, E'bay, Amazon and local contractors. They come in almost any size you would want. For more information just use your computer search engine. This of course would not be portable but would give you heat in an emergency and would not need any electricity unless you added an optional blower fan.


Can a grounding issue with newly installed light fixtures cause a short circuit/blown fuse?

Unless you connected a hot to ground, it probably is not related to the ground.  Without seeing some pictures or diagrams, my best guess is that one of your white wires is actually a hot (and someone didn't mark it as so), so by connecting the whites (which are supposed to be neutral) together, you've created a short.

Sometimes with switches, when the power comes into the ceiling box first, there will be one cable to the switch from the ceiling box. In this configuration you will find a black and white wire, but both are actually hot since the switch only interrupts the hot wire.  Take a look at the switch wiring - are both wires black, or is one black and one white? If one black and one white, then one of your white wires is actually hot and should not be connected to the rest of the white (neutral) wires.

I would start by disconnecting your work, verifying the fuse doesn't blow in this configuration and then start connecting the lights back up at one at a time.

Remember that electricity is dangerous and there's nothing wrong with calling an electrician if you are in over your head!


Tile over 2x6x1.5 T&G subfloor, spanning 48" beams

Yes add the blocking as you have in your diagram.

You should also laminate your 2x6 tng flooring with plywood.

Are you doing large format tile?

The typical requirement for tile is 1 1/4" thick plywood subfloor.  If you have less than this you can have problems with defelection.  A 2x6 is usually 1.5" nominal thickness though older material was actual dimensions so thickness wise you seem ok.

In your scenario, I'd add the blocking, laminate the floor with 3/8" plywood using construction adhesive and screws, and use a decoupling membrane if you can tolerate the increase in height in the bathroom.

If you can't tolerate that much floor height, add the blocking, see if you have any detectable deflection ( I have 5/8" plywood on 16" centers and bouncing on my floor a friend can see it move @~180 pounds ).  If you still have deflection, I'd go with the 3/8 plywood lamination and a reducer in the door.

Good luck.


How are vapor barriers, moisture barriers, and house wrap different?

Vapor Barriers
Vapor barriers prevent moisture in the air from moving between locations. This is important when considering the building envelope in a home.
Since humans produce a lot of moisture through daily activity and bodily functions, humidity tends to be higher indoors than out during the heating season. If this moisture migrates out through the walls and ceiling when it's cold outside, it will condense into liquid water or frost where it encounters the dew point temperature. This is bad for some obvious reasons. Rot, mold, and pests can result.
To prevent these problems, vapor barrier is usually installed toward the conditioned space in a home--typically over framing and just behind drywall. This keeps airborne moisture inside the heated space where it's less likely to condense.
Vapor barrier installed in homes is most commonly polyethylene sheeting in 4 mil thickness, though thicker sheet may be used where fire retardance is needed, for example, or where higher durability is important.
Moisture Barriers
This term is often synonymous with vapor barrier but is sometimes used to contrast the permeable traits of house wrap with the water-blocking nature of impermeable sheeting. Common uses for moisture barriers are shower walls, roofs, and backyard ponds. EPDM and PVC are materials used in these cases.
House Wrap
House wrap, such as Tyvek™, is air-permeable membrane used under siding to reduce airflow, thus saving energy otherwise used to heat or cool a home while allowing moisture in the air to escape. It also prevents liquid moisture from passing into the wall due to leaks in siding.
House wrap is not a vapor barrier. In fact, serious problems can arise from using solid material like polyethylene sheeting as house wrap when a similar vapor barrier is installed to the interior. Moisture can become trapped between those barriers, leading to mold, decay, and other damage.