Why do my new door hinges prevent my door from shutting completely?

How do I go about fixing this? I guess I could take them off again, and chisel away a little on the door grooves or in the frame,

That's pretty much the only way - but take a good look and work out which side (door or frame) needs to move and in which direction. I've done this in the past and gone the wrong way at first which isn't good.

In some cases I've even had to resort to shaving a bit from the edge of the frame:

This shows the hinge side, but the same applies if the problem is occurring on the handle side. You only need to shave that part of the frame where the door and frame interfere. This might be the only solution if the door is warped or twisted at all as moving the entire door by repositioning the hinges would leave gaps between the door and the frame.


How can I conceal a gap between a wall and newly installed vinyl flooring that I cut too short?

You can use quarter round to extend your baseboards and cover small gaps.

(source: houserepairtalk.com)

If the gap is really large you can cut a new larger piece of the flooring and line it up with the current floor in order to create a hopefully invisible seam.  I think it generally looks better to have two large pieces with a seam instead of one large piece and one small piece.


Well... THAT's an expensive house to heat, what with Lake Effect and all!

I think it'd be fine to slip some styrene (pink) foam board into the gap. You could also use polyisocyanurate, but you wouldn't get the benefit of the foil facing because you wouldn't have any air gap.

If you add foamboard, or even if you DON'T, the vapor barrier should ALWAYS be on the HEATED side of the insulated wall in cold climates. That means on the LIVING SPACE side of those studs. Right now, your vapor barrier is gathering moisture (frost) between it and the fiberglass, and when it melts your fiberglass gets wet. On the CORRECT side, it stops any moisture from getting into the fiberglass in the first place, trapping it within the living space where it belongs.

Upstairs... I'd leave the existing fiberglass in place, but strip off the drywall. I'd span the "studs" with heavy (2" thick) horizontal furring strips, and I'd fill the gaps with 1-3/8" polyisocynanurate foam board (foil faced) snug against the existing "studs". I'd seal all joints with aluminum tape. Then new drywall can be added to the horizontal strapping, leaving a 5/8" air gap between the foil-faced foam and the drywall.

In fact, that's exactly what I DID in this house - it's a transitional-timberframe 5/4 cape in Vermont, and we now burn just over two tons of wood pellets (about $500US total) per year, just about 1/3 as much as we burned the first winter, before we did that foamboard job. It was interesting to get the switches & outlets out to the new surface, but I accomplished it by cutting pieces of plywood with box-shaped openings & stitching them into place across the studs. I screwed the boxes into the plywood carriers (mounting ears reversed), so the boxes are just less than flush with the new drywall.

Funny to run a studfinder on these walls, though - studfinder only finds HORIZONTAL studs.    8)


Can I vent a portable air conditioner inside?

It's possible but it will be creating a situation where your a/c is fighting against itself, because you'll simply be redistributing the heat inside your house, instead of putting it on the outside.

Why?  Because the warm air will creep back into the room you were cooling, so the a/c will be acting like a big do-nothing machine - to a degree anyway.

Mold isn't going to be too concerning, however, because you won't be taking moisture out of the one room and putting it into the other - the moisture in the air in the warm room may increase a little (because warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air, so if moisture is there, it'll get picked up) but not to the degree it would if you were, say, venting a dryer into that room, where you'd be introducing lots of NEW moisture.

All that said - I do not recommend this idea.  Better to create a vent/opening (properly, of course, but that's a different question) in the outside wall to allow the warm air to go where it is supposed to.


Switching electric boiler off for months -- any precautions?

Just switching it off should be fine. Depending on climate, you might also want to turn off and drain the whole water system (in which case you would want to be sure to refill the water system and get any air pockets out before switching the boiler back on).


Is this HVAC condensing unit platform acceptable/stable enough?

That upper pad is probably not concrete, it's more likely Styrofoam covered with a coating to make it LOOK like concrete. That Styrofoam is actually better in some ways because it doesn't degrade or crack as easily as concrete and it absorbs vibration, making the unit quieter. Some jurisdicions however do not allow the styrofoam pads to be in direct contact with earth, hence the bricks.


You may not have lathe, but compressed board under the plaster and scratch coat. Either way; if plaster is any way compromised you should tear out to studs and start over. Bring plumbing to code; add a diverter and shower line in the wall; cover with cement board, tape off. Follow manufacturer instructions to a tee. Or, flatten walls with a latex modified skim coat product. When dry, waterproof with Custom Building Products Red Guard or better, Schluter Kerdi. Do not use type 2 mastics with these products. Please follow instructions properly. Showers see more water than a rain forest. Showers are labor intensive. Do it right the first time. Hope this helps.


https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/service/replacement-parts/

Bosch may have a answer.

i have had lots of lock using PERMATEX Right Stuff. Silicone based, fast drying, strong and dependable.


15-20 degrees isn't cold enough, believe it or not :)  There needs to be a significant temperature difference to rapidly draw the heat out of the items you want to freeze.

For example, current Whirlpool refrigerator/freezer units come preset to 0-degrees (F, not C) for the freezer and 37-degrees (F) for the fridge.  According to this document, the freezer range is from -5 to 5 (F), and the fridge can be set from 33 to 41 (F).

Make it colder, and save your fish :)


Can I glue vinyl flooring to my bathtub's side panel?

You can glue what ever you want to the side of your bathroom tub.  Will it hurt anything?  No.  Will it look good?  Highly debatable.


Why is my front room ceiling fan switch setting off my smoke alarms

There are two types of smoke detectors, Ionization and photoelectric. If you have the latter, it might be that they have some particulate around the photocell and when the fan goes off it disturbs the dust enough to simulate smoke. If you know your type and manufacturer you can check your manual (many are online) and follow the cleaning procedures.

If you don't know the manufacturer sometimes you can bag the smoke detectors with a "shower cap" or a plastic bag and a rubber band and see if turning on the fans will set of the alarm.

After that it gets a little complicated and you might need to consult an alarm specialist in your area.

Good luck.


You can just blow out the pilot light and once it cools down (a few minutes at worst), the pilot light assembly will shut off the gas. A pilot light for a stove has a safety device called a thermocouple that is tied to a valve as a safety precaution against accidentally losing the pilot flame.

Relighting it will not be simple however. When you want to re-light it, you have to hold a reset button down while applying a flame to that device long enough to get it to open the valve again. That is not something for the faint of heart and is not something you want to do every time you want to use the oven...

Here's a video of the typical procedure (yours may vary slightly) if you want to assess your desire to go down this road.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glX70JM-aFY


Do I need to add studs to install a floating vanity in this layout?

I followed your link to the vendor site, and located a link to a PDF containing installation instructions. It was under Product Page > [Features & Specs] > Technical Specs.
The installation instructions appear to show the cabinet mounting using a "French Cleat" system, with 4 screws through the supporting cleat, and 2 screws through the cabinet after hanging it from the cleat.
In the instructions, the mounting was to plastic hangers, commonly referred to as "drywall anchors". However, the drawings were stylized, so this is not definite.
Since you have studs available, I would suggest that you visit your local home center (or "home centre", eh?) and pick up some hex-headed lag bolts, along with a similar number of matching washers. You can mark the position of your studs during the renovation process (or go back later with a stud finder), then drill larger holes in the mounting cleat to sink the lags into your studs.
Beware, though: my experience with big-box store lags is that many of them are made of "Chinesium." You want to go one or two sizes up from what you think will work. If you're thinking 1/4" (6mm), then go 3/8" instead (9mm).
Also beware: if you and your significant other are likely to "get frisky" on this surface, make sure you look at how it's engineered. I suspect it's probably just melamine (particle-board, MDF), which would contra-indicate friskiness unless you're both "heroin chic".


How much weight can a 3/4" x 8" lag bolt hold when drilled in half way?

It's not just about weight but where and how that weight is applied. In your case, it would seem that the how is purely vertical, that is, no tension and applied to the perpendicular grain of the tree. The where is still open. Where on the bolt is the load applied? The further it is away the less it can carry, and the design problem changes from purely shear to a moment (tension / compression) situation.

  What about other lengths and thickness, and percent drilled in?

There is far too much math and variables to answer this question yet. You need to lower the variables first, aka settle on a design and work out some of the details first

  Is there some sort of formula to calculate?

Yes, many of them but these are outside the scope of this website

The description and everything else aside, this all comes down to loads and resistance based on things like material properties and the specifics of your design. Since you yourself are not sure about the details then it's not possible to answer this question yet

In general, lag screws (they are -not- bolts) can be used in place of the tree house bolts as there is little fundamental difference between them and the tree house bolts other than dimensions and maybe steel properties (but that probably may not control design).

But to specifically answer your question, you'd have to hire an engineer, sorry


Three different well pumps not working but have power

Since you are measuring voltage it is a real possibility you have an open neutral, yes you can have an open neutral and measure 120v +- this is quite common in circuits that use backstabs an easy test put a table lamp on the circuit if no light measure the voltage 120v open neutral if you read zero volts it’s an open hot. And you were reading a phantom voltage to know which wire to trace it helps to put a load on the circuit verify the hot measurement under load.


Would a wall mounted TV count as an appliance for the purposes of tamper resistance outlet code requirements?

This could be a tricky one, as it depends on what you consider an "appliance", and how you define "dedicated space".

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 406 Receptacles, Cord Connectors, and Attachment Plugs (Caps)
406.12 Tamper Resistant Receptacles.
(A) Dwelling Units. In all areas specified in 210.52, all nonlocking-type 125-volt, 15-and 20-ampere receptacles shall be listed tamper-resistant receptacles.
Exception to (A), (B), and (C): Receptacles in the following locations shall not be required to be tamper-resistant:
(1) Receptacles located more than 1.7 m (5 1⁄2 ft) above the floor.
(3) A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that, in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another and that is cord-and-plug connected in accordance with 400.7(A)(6), (A)(7), or (A)(8).

Easy peasy if the receptacle is 5 1/2' above the floor.  A bit confusing otherwise.  First you have to decide if a TV meets the NEC definition of an appliance.

Appliance. Utilization equipment, generally other than industrial, that is normally built in standardized sizes or types and is installed or connected as a unit to perform one or more functions such as clothes washing, air conditioning, food mixing, deep frying, and so forth.

Sure, I guess.
Next, you have to determine if the receptacle is located within the dedicated space for the TV. This is made difficult, as NEC doesn't define "dedicated space" well.

110.27(E)(1)(a) Dedicated Electrical Space. The space equal to the width and depth of the equipment and extending from the floor to a height of 1.8 m (6 ft) above the equipment or to the structural ceiling, whichever is lower...
110.27(E)(2)(b) Dedicated Equipment Space. The space equal to the width and depth of the equipment and extending from grade to a height of 1.8 m (6 ft) above the equipment, shall be dedicated to the electrical installation.

Based on these definitions, I'd say the receptacle is likely not within the dedicated space for the appliance.
tl;dr
Unless there's a local ammendment to the code that makes it more clear, I'd say this is a judgement call for the Authority Having Jurisdiction. For the price difference between a TR receptacle and non TR receptacle, I'd probably just install a TR receptacle.


Is there a tool designed for holding multiple electrical wires together to keep them in place for wire nut?

Yes. It's called Lineman's Pliers.

To use:

Strip the wires a bit longer than required (1" - 1 1/2").
Hold the wires at the insulation between your thumb and forefinger.
Pinch the tip of all the wires in the lineman's pliers.
Twist the wires together using the pliers.
Trim the end of the wires to the proper length.
Twist on the twist-on wire connector.

You could also try using crimp connectors, with insulated caps.

But then you'll need a crimp tool

Or as auujay points out, you can use push-in wire connectors. Which you can read about on the blog


I would use mastic this type of glue sticks to plywood quite well, if you have any of the grout mix left fill the gap (you want a small gap even if you use Calking to fill the bottom gap.) I use mastic adhesive on verticle walls like this because it sticks well. It looks like your tiles are not two large and although mastic is not really for wet locations mopping won't get it saturated enough to release the tile. After grouting the tile seal it and it will probably out last you. Regular grout will stop some moisture I have seen tile on sheetrock put up this way in shower surrounds last 25-35 years before enough moisture got through from not maintaing the grout that the sheetrock failed.


How do I determine the correct rise of a step for a concrete footing on a slope?

Finally found an obscure article that confirmed my calculation is correct. The Concrete Masonry Unit (CMU) defines the various sizes of blocks used in US construction. They are each given a nominal size but the actual size is slightly smaller and accounts for 3/8" mortar joints. So when building lets say a retaining wall out of 16x8x8" "cinder" blocks your step rise should be 8" which is the nominal height of the "cinder" block but the blocks actual height is 7 5/8" to allow for a standard 3/8 mortar joint.


What should I do if my house is leaning up off the foundation?

Being bolted down, or not, is an era-dependendent thing - modern houses generally are, many older ones are not.

Usually, the house has not lifted, despite appearing that way - what has happened is that the foundation has sunk - in this case, in a manner that moves the actual support of the house back to the points where the sill is still touching the foundation.

Mitigation ranges from the low-cost approach of shimming the gap to the high-cost one of a new foundation. If considering the latter, it may make sense (if you have space) to build a new foundation and move the house onto it, or to move the house off the foundation, build a new one, and move the house back onto it, rather than rebuilding it "in place." It's certainly posible to support the house where it is and build a new foundation under it, but it adds enough complexity to the job that paying to have the house moved once or twice is often the less expensive route.

Beyond shimming this is not a great project to DIY, for the most part.


Fixing a poor measurement of drywall toggle anchors

The structure of the wall is gone in the direct vicinity, so moving the anchors you have will not work, and spackle is more a replacement for the paper on the drywall, than the gypsum itself.

Most useful, I think:

Plan A: How to wire a picture, using 2 hooks. The hooks do not have to be level

https://www.flickr.com/photos/some_guy/16751622487/

Other Options:

mount a small piece of sturdy lumber, oak 1x2 molding (predrilled) would be fine  as parallel to the floor using the studs.

Drill for the screws to catch the d-ring on the mirror.

A low profile hook/bracket that you can screw into the anchor and 'swing' far enough to catch the d-ring on the mirror. A 45 degree angle on the hook will double the holding force on the anchor, so no more than that.

A loop of piece of picture hanging wire, quick link, modified simpson strong tie or the like is also valid here.

3.Get the anchors you have out of the wall

Cut (drywall saw, hacksaw blade, steak knife, ginsu or similar) the 1/8 over to where you need.

Get a couple of 'real' spring loaded toggle bolts, with the longest arms possible. You can get shorter screws if needed.

Build a washer 'sandwich' with the largest fender washer possible to go against the wall, as many normal size washers as needed to hook the d-ring, and then a larger washer against the toggle screw that will keep the d-ring from bumping/sliding off the front of the bolt.

With the exception of the washer closest to the screw head, they do not need to have the 'right' size hole in them, just enough to not fall through each other.

Expand, by cutting the hole in the wall just large to fit the toggle through.

Tighten as needed, and then get the mirror on the wall to prevent anyone from seeing the mess (I have this final activity down to a fine art.)


Why would an electric baseboard heater burn the wire connector off the black wires?

The wire nut burned because the connection was not sound. May have been the nut was loose or the wires not paired/lined up cleanly and properly. Either way, this creates a very high resistance connection that can create a LOT of heat under load, and an 8' heater is a pretty good load, typically 250 watts per foot. This resistance is not seen as any extra amperage by the circuit so the breaker does not know anything is wrong.

This problem was not the fault of the heater, it was the poor connection.

The ticking can be typical with baseboard heaters. It's the metal expanding and contracting.


Furnace blower motor runs briefly then turns off

Sounds like the capacitor in the AC blower motor is failing.

The electrolytic material dries out over time, leaving the motor unable to spin.

Replace capacitor with one of the same rating.


Why is my outdoor GFCI outlet failing so often?

Based on your description, it sounds like the GFCI is with an outdoor receptacle. That makes it susceptible to weather, and in this case also to spray from the waterfall.

As noted by Ed Beal, a high-quality Weather Resistant GFCI receptacle should do just fine. If you are replacing each year with an ordinary GFCI receptacle then an upgrade to WR should provide much longer life. The extra $10 for a top-quality WR instead of a regular non-WR really isn't very much. Add a few $ for an in-use cover and it gets even better.

But if you already have WR and it hasn't solved the problem, or if you want a little more peace of mind, switch the receptacle for an ordinary weather resistant receptacle. Install GFCI either at an upstream receptacle or in the breaker panel. That will provide the same protection but move the electronics to a safe dry location. Everything else (except the pump of course) is passive and not as affected by water unless there is an actual fault - which the GFCI protects.


It's pressure-treated just under a different process that is "greener". See the PDF here. If it's treated, then there are preservatives in the wood to prevent rot and as an insect-repellant.


newly installed picture window bends under pressure

Each window manufacturer has an engineering department that can help you calculate the maximum size for your particular location.

Each region in the U.S. has a wind load requirement. Based on that wind load, each brand of window and each series (style of window) can only support a maximum window size.

Here’s their customer service info:

https://www.alside.com/support/contact-us/

I’d call and ask for their engineering department and be prepared to give them the overall size, style (brand series, like 1700 Series, etc.) and number of panes. They can quickly tell you the maximum size allowed in your geographical location.

Remember, it’s important to get this right or you’ll void the warranty. BTW, if it’s oversized, I’d ask for a refund from the installer. The engineering department can email you the maximum size in order to not void the warranty that you can show the installer.


IKEA furniture is pretty well engineered, and by that I mean, they make it just about strong enough to be used as intended by the manufacturer.  There isn't a lot of overstrength to accommodate weird uses.  If the manufacturer intended that to be done, Both these would be true:

An explanation on how to do it would be included in the instructions for the bed.  And
A testing lab such as UL, TUV, CSA, etc. will have tested the design, and certified it to be safe.

If either of those things is not true, then either a) do not do it, or b) build a cantilevered or ceiling-hung platform to carry the weight of the upper bed even if the lower one is removed.


I have seen this hundreds of times. The problem is almost always in the first non-working outlet or the last working one! The very few that this has not been the case it has been in a junction box or breaker panel very rare!

Go to the last working outlet--it may be a bad back stab feeding to the next outlet (quite common) or a broken wire usually because of a nick where the wire was stripped. Again, rare, but a possibility.


How do I move this light box over a few inches in the wall?

The cable comes in from below, and it appears to be running up the right side of the stud, so I'd bet you can swing it over by releasing some staples below the box.
Since you're overlaying paneling or boards, just cut out a couple horizontal slots in the drywall--one at the box level and one a couple feet lower. These could be 4" high by the width of the stud bay.
Now find and pull the staples. Swing the box over and re-mount it to a new framing block, which could be horizontal between studs.
Whether you replace the drywall cutouts is up to you. It would be easy to float some scrap plywood or 1x2 in there and screw them back into place.


Recommendation for cutting corner of tile?

Score it to half depth with an angle grinder to make the corner.  Note that you do not need to score it so the two lines meet as this might bleed over.   Tap with hammer.

If no angle grinder you can use a sharp chisel and basically scratch through it with about the same method.   The cut does have to be perfect since you will have a plate over it, although you do not want too much coming out.


How to split an existing circuit breaker?

Yes, you can run a new cable directly from the panel to a junction box and split it there. Getting the new cable to that box might be a problem, but you can figure that out.


Most vices have a handle scaled to match the force they can apply. Never do them up with extra leverage in other words.

I've broken an old but good quality vice before, but by pulling against it with leverage rather than using its own handle.

If it's new and you used it as designed, take it back. I did when I snapped a G-clamp using its own handle and got a refund on that and the identical one I bought at the same time and wouldn't trust.


When to use electrical tape rather than wire nuts?

I tend to agree with the comments

This is an inline splice
Whomever did this was covering solder

So, having said that...

Electrical tape is good for insulating wire. It cannot hold wires together. In this case, the solder is holding the wires, but I really wouldn't trust solder for electrical wires. Wires can get warmer when in use, which could weaken or break the solder.

Wire nuts involves twisting the wires together, meaning the wires hold themselves in position, The nut insulates the top and helps (somewhat) stop movement.

I would only use electrical tape on a wire that has had its insulation damaged.


can a 240 dryer outlet be moved using a junction box?

The answer is yes if the conductors meet code.you already turned off,  Remove The receptacle install a clamp in the old box for the new wire to feed the new the receptacle If Romex the putter insulation 1/4” inside the clamp and 6” wire minimum. Use appropriate sized wire-nuts and install a blank cover, put the new box where you want it , bring the wire in make sure to have at least 6” and the putter covering or insulation inside the box by 1/4” reconnect your receptacle and you are ready to plug in.
Electric driers are usually #10 wire on a 30 amp breaker. Can be larger but that is normal.
I usually use 4 square metal boxes with a 30 amp 1/2” raised cover .  The receptacle should be a 4 wire by today’s code well and the last few cycles.
Good luck.


Help with lights flickering at weird regular interval

I had strange flickering in the past (but not quite with the strange periodicity you are), and this is how I found the device(s) that was dirtying up the power for my whole house:

Go to the breaker and shutoff all but one of the flickering circuits

Did the flickering stop?

if yes:

One by one turn each circuit back on until the flickering returns
Once flicking returns you now know which circuit contains the device causing the problem (the last one you turned on). One by one, unplug/unscrew each device/bulb from the circuit until the flickering stops

if no:

Turn off the circuit, and switch on a different one that you had noticed flickering on

If the flickering is gone, it was due to a device in your home, proceed to step 3 to isolate the device.
If you are still experiencing flickering, it is likely due to a problem your electrical carriers equipment.  Call them and let them know you've isolated the problem to something on their end.


What is the best removable insulation material?

You can use Backer Rod to fill in the crack if it is not too wide.  Backer rod is an easy to compress rope-like celled foam and should be easy to remove at a later date.  It is mainly used to fill deep cracks before caulking to give support to the caulk.

Backer rod comes in a variety of diameters and should be able to be found at your local building supply store.


What is this white sheet behind the insulation?

It's a vapor barrier, but a poorly installed one... maybe just because of the window. This room looks like it's going to be a bathroom of some sort.


Why are Two Electric Range Burners Not Working?

It could be the controller, but it could also be a burner or a wire to a burner.

Have a look underneath the two right burners—with power shut off to the range.  I expect the cause will be readily apparent with a look.


How can I avoid dust and bubbles when installing window film?

From my days installing car film, I have two basic suggestions.

Get off the floor. You can't work down there without dust being blown into your workpiece every time you move. Get up on a table in a room without a lot of human or pet traffic, where the air remains still. Most installations are on the window in a wall anyway.
Use plenty of solution. You don't want things drying out before you have a chance to squeeze out all the air bubbles. They shouldn't be difficult to move if you have things wet enough. Using more will also tend to flush out dust. Per one comment on the product page: "1/4 tsp of tear free no conditioner added baby shampoo per 1qt of water works better than the $3.97 per bottle of Gila spray."


What is causing extremely high water usage?

You could install flow meters on each unit and bill them separately.


How can I make an enamel-on-steel bathtub feel/sound more substantial?

Bed it in plaster (which is very likely what the tub manufacturer recommends - most do.) Foam can work but is not preferred (easier when you have an already installed tub, though.)

Bedding on plaster is literally get ready to go, test fit, dump a pile of plaster on the floor under the middle of where the tub goes, set the tub. Tub ends up solid, you don't have anything that's going to rot in there, and the plaster is easily broken out when the tub eventually needs to be replaced.

As for your cockamaimie scheme, the diving weights alone will cost more than the bag of plaster; and it's an ugly mess and waste of effort .vs. doing it right with plaster.


Window air conditioner between living room and enclosed porch

If you have a forced air furnace for heating, you could install the window unit in another window and run the furnace fan to circulate the conditioned air throughout the house. My son did this in his first house. As for using the window you mentioned, you could do it your way if you can insure good air flow in and out of the porch area to keep that area the same temperature as the outside. Window fan/fans, may be needed. If the porch area heats and has  high humidity that will affect the operation of the A/C unit and could ruin the porch area. All window A/C units produce lots of heat and humidity when operating. So you will have to make sure you address these issues. A split system or other type of cooling unit would be preferred. Depending on where you live a 12,000 BTU unit may be a little undersized.


Here's the Sears Help for your washer if it "Won’t agitate or spin."

It says it could be:

The lid lock switch
The washer drive motor
The washer timer

They also have blown-up diagrams of each assembly.  You can buy the replacement parts there.  (Or get the part number and search online.)

You can find the wiring diagram and user manual (not the repair manual) here.

Here is the service manual.  It is $9.95.  I haven't verified the helpfulness of this.


The diagram above is nearly correct and when I wired it that way the light AND connected the ground to the ground on the switch (rather than capping it) it worked and when I tested the GFI the light went out.. thanks.


1920 UK London House - How should I internal insulate?

That 9cm of material will be a form of plaster. However, I highly suggest you get an asbestos sample taken of it and sent away for testing. Some of these old plasters did contain asbestos previously but not all of them. You can do this fairly cheaply. Do not underestimate the danger of asbestos if you know nothing about it. Research it please. Any damage to asbestos containing material should be sprayed with water to stop particles forming in the air and do not use a vacuum cleaner as it will spread them around. You shouldn't touch it period if it has asbestos in it as it is a notifiable substance.
If you are tight for space in the rooms then yes remove the plaster and frame the wall out with stud work and put PIR/PUR insulation boards in and leave a small cavity gap at the back of the boards. If you aren't tight for room or you find asbestos, frame directly on top of the plaster. Again installing PIR/PUR boards. In an ideal scenario you would want the insulation boards to be 100mm thick but you can get insulation boards in varying thickness. Its all about how much space you want to sacrifice for insulation gains.


Cleaning larger sediment out of electric water heater

One thing to try to get the sediment stirred up and moving out would be:

Turn off the heat supply (caution, mostly)

Shut off the cold water supply to the heater. Open a hot water faucet, or more than one. Remove the aerator screens...crud may come out here.

Attach a hose to the drain and to a cold hose bibb. Open the drain, and open the hose bibb. Allow water to flow from the hot faucet for a while, then shut off the cold hose bibb and remove the hose from the bibb and route it to a drain/sump.

The idea, which may or may not work depending how firmly clogged your heater is, is to backflush and loosen the sediment with the water coming in from the drain before trying to drain it out the drain.


Your roof system is not appropriate for several reasons: 1) required slope, 2) structurally inadequate

The IRC Building Code requires a minimum slope of 2.5:12 for tile roofs. Your roof appears to be about 1:12. The tiles will need to be installed in what is called a “low slope application”, which includes plywood with a double layer of underlayment, which adds to the weight.

The loading your roof must support is tiles = 6 to 10 lbs. per square foot (psf) depending on the tile + 2 layers underlayment = 1 psf + plywood = 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 psf depending on the thickness + joists = 1 1/2 to 2 psf + drywall on ceiling = 2 1/2 psf for a total dead load of 11 1/2 psf to 15 psf PLUS a live load of 20 psf to 30 psf for a total load of 31 1/2 psf to 45 psf. That is extremely high for a roof.

The current structure could only support a total load of about 5 psf based on my experience. (I don’t have calculations to prove my statement.)
In addition, the structure must support a wind load and an uplift force, which depending where you are , that structure is not adequate.
Get a Building Permit and the inspector will reject it for you.


Can I screw a US garden hose into any standard threaded pipe?

No, a US garden hose thread is its own thing.

This table has a useful comparison:

Note that the hose thread (called "GHT" in plumbing circles) clearly does not match ANY of the other thread specifications in this table of common sizes. I circled some table entries with the closest dimensions to GHT just for emphasis.

Though it's "3/4" diameter is nearly the same as several others, the threads-per-inch are quite different.

I suppose that the designer wanted it to screw on with fewer turns, hence the low TPI count for the common 3/4 size. Maybe this makes manufacturing tolerances easier also.

So the only way to make a screwed-together attachment is to use an appropriate spigot, bibb, or adapter.


Found mismatched breaker and wiring while replacing kitchen outlet in older house

I'd add a new 12AWG homerun from the panel to the junction box

What I'd do here is put a new 12/2 homerun in from the existing 20A breaker on the circuit to the junction box where the 14 and 12AWG wires are split, then connect the wires in the junction box by size as well as color (12AWG black to 12AWG black, 12AWG white to 12AWG white, 14AWG black to 14AWG black, and 14AWG white to 14AWG white), save for the grounds which all connect together.

At that point, you can take the existing 14/2 homerun off the existing 20A breaker in the panel and land it on a new 15A breaker fitted in one of the open slots on the bottom left -- Eaton CH breakers are widely carried by big-box stores and supply houses across North America.  (If you need to splice some extra 14AWG onto the end of the homerun to make it reach, go ahead and do so with a wirenut -- splicing in a panel is safe and Code-compliant, even though some ignorami misinterpret the Code that covers this to say otherwise.)

You can then fit a 20A GFCI to the 12AWG (20A) circuit to protect the dishwasher and receptacle.


Based upon the discussion in comments and the recently added pictures I see no provision to index the handle cap to the brass shaft by any means other than the set screw action of the screw in handle. For this reason I think there may be value to consider adding a deeper V groove to the end of the shaft to better capture the set screw action of the handle.

I see two possible problems with the handle. One is the tendancy for it to work loose when grasping it to change the valve position. The other possibility is that the design of the handle may put a limit on how far it can be screwed into  the cap piece. That could be due to a shouldered step or a length of the threaded section of the handle. Either of these could limit the ability of the V groove ide to work very well. You could work around this by finding a separate Allen head set screw that you would install first into the threaded hole and then install the handle on top in the same threaded hole. It may be necessary to cut off part of the threaded end of the handle as long as too much is not removed.


What are the pros and cons of rolled-on wall/ceiling texture paint?

Rolled on texture is easy for anyone who can paint. However, do not get that pre-mixed stuff. It's nearly impossible to get it to a good consistency. Go with the texture additive that you mix in yourself. Just wear some old clothes because tiny bits of the texture are going to shoot off the roller and get on you (more so for a ceiling job).

All you need to do is pay attention to the texture coverage. Rolling vertical and coming back over on a horizontal to get uniform coverage. I'll do the texture in the first coat then do another coat without the texture to cover up any unpainted texture bits that are barely stuck to the wall.


I'm not sure "thickness" really matters as much as the overall design of the ramp. U-Haul trucks come with 12' long aluminum ramps that one person can lift and they are made of pretty thin aluminum.  They are rated at over 500lbs because of the overall design of the ramp.

Thickness really only matters when talking about one single unsupported span, and that is dependent on overall design.  You could have a 24" unsupported span with 1/4" steel or a 6" span with 1/8" aluminum (all made up numbers).

A better approach would be to find an affordable metal that is suitable for the purpose of a walkway, then decide what design would allow you to use that based on its weight and flexibility.  Once that is done, you can look at the cost of a more typical surface (wood decking), compare costs, and see if metal really makes sense.


What type of lumber should I use for narrowing a recessed hole in my bathroom wall, to be used for a new cabinet?

You could use almost any wood that happens to be the right thickness. Multiple pieces even - e.g., multiple layers of plywood.
However, I would definitely use screws rather than nails. Nails will hold just fine, but I find that screws with a decent battery-powered drill/driver are a lot easier than nails, especially when working in relatively small spaces.


Why did I lose power to half the house when the breakers did not trip?

First, do the easy-to-check steps:  does a device that should be on still work?  Is the "on" switch on?  Is it plugged in?  (Children are often noted for unexpectedly changing these.)  If the device is plugged in somewhere else, does it work?  Does a portable device known to work properly suddenly not work in the alleged "failed" outlet?

Next, are you sure the breakers have not tripped?  Many manufacturers build them so that they do not visibly change when tripped.  To be sure, turn the lever all the way off and then back on.

Three circuits!  There is very little in common such that only three circuits with three separate breakers are all affected.  Maybe there are more?  Are there any other circuits which are on the same bus in the breaker panel also not working?  That would indicate a bus being disconnected, probably by a loose wire inside the panel.  A visual inspection with the panel cover off might be helpful.

Also possible—maybe probable—is that some neutral wires have come loose in the panel.  Turn off the main breaker and give all the wires a wiggle, being very careful not to touch near the service wires or where they connect to the main breaker.

Maybe something changed recently?:  Electrical work, ground work, utility work.


Somewhat up to you, but standard practice (IMPE) is to cover the pipe with some rock, then fold the fabric over to "box" the pipe (overlapping the fabric, unless you want to get fanatical and seam it), then cover with more rock to keep it in place.


Problems Using Stud Finder on a Textured Wall - Due to Finder or Texture?

I haven't tried it on a textured wall, but have similar issues with uneven plaster and lath. Try maintaining a steady speed and pressure on the stud finder as you sweep across the wall.  (I'm much more steady with my right hand than my left.)  Try going both directions - left to right, and right to left - at several different heights. Most walls have light switch or outlet boxes attached to studs. Once you find a stud, try searching 16" or 24" to the side.  (Most walls in the US are framed 16" on center.)  It helps to put a strip of painter's tape 8-12" long where you think a stud is, then make repeated passes back and forth, marking the edges each time with a pencil. With some practice (and a bit of luck) you'll find your marks in clusters on each stud edge.  Once you find a couple studs on that wall you can measure and put another piece of tape to use as a starting point for finding others.


How do I remove carpet adhesive from concrete?

The glue used by the floor covering industry to adhere carpet to a floor is one of the most tenacious, and laborious bonds to break. If you want to burn some calories grab some knee pads and a 6 inch floor scraper (and some extra blades). Use a sweeping arch to slice the residual adhesive from the floor. Or, if possible, rent a 17 inch floor scrubber/buffer machine and ask for a couple of 36 grit sanding disc's. The sanding discs will eventually clog with glue. I've found that some handfuls of silica sand broadcast on the floor speeds the glue removal and lessens the amount of glue clogging the disc. Wear a respirator if using silica. Breathing it can cause silicosis to the lungs.


If I understand correctly, it is probably just a pressure fit. You should be able to pry it so it comes straight out the edge of the door from where the cylinder sits. This picture is just of a normal doorknob, but same principle applies.


Hanging a heavy edgeless mirror so that it tilts down

Not sure about how well it is for earthquakes, but for better security, I'd go with hinges at the bottom, instead of cleats. That would provide less chance of mirror jumping from its position during a minor earthquake, and also wouldn't bruise the wall during angle change, if the hinge is hanged at the very bottom of frame.

For top I would go with with D-ring free-angled bolt anchors in the wall, something on these lines:

, with D-rings at the top of the mirror frame (as you said), and appropriate thickness chains linking the two. This would also provide for easy change of mirror angle -- just control the angle by inserting pins or similar fasteners in appropriate links of the chains.

As a bonus, nothing should be visible from front of the mirror.


What metal is along the top of a plaster wall in a 1930s house?

It is likely to be "drywall bead " used to make joins between plasterboard at internal an external corners. It makes it easier for builders or renovators to produce a clean sharp corner.


How to seal PVC-U and copper pipes together

I too have struggled with gluing copper and PVC for certain experiments. Silicone is an ok choice, depending on the pressure, but white silicone just happens to be less effective for sticking to stuff than clear silicone... I don't really know why, I just know that it is.

It's kind of too late to use anything else now that you put silicone on it (actually PVC cement seems to stick to silicone, but it's a poor glue overall); but chances are the white silicone will separate or peel off after a while. If (or, after) that happens, you will have another chance to use another glue. The main thing to be concerned with is gluing to copper. I think that Just for Copper epoxy would be a better choice. I have not used this before, but based on round-about experience, I think it would be good to try. In general, copper oxidation (patina) is a problem for glue on copper (in the long run). Gluing to PVC is probably not going to be as much of a problem... at least for most kinds of glue, silicone, and/or epoxy. Maybe the the answer is to use something like a copper putty to adhere to the copper, then use silcone or another epoxy to join the PVC to the copper epoxy.

Something else that might help would be to use a piece/sheet of plastic or rubber over the area (like a shield). Use something, in which you can cut tight, accurate holes to help seal the deal. Some plastics don't stick to some epoxies. So if you decide to try this, test the plastic for compatability first.

Edit- See where I think a weak spot could be; unless maybe another pipe is inserted which helps support this area.


Does anyone know where I can find this sort of l-screw hollow wall anchor combo?

Limo is correct, you can replace the machine bolt with an L bolt/hook that has the proper threads.
I prefer Toggler anchors for superior weight holding ability. (Limos advice would work for those as well.)
BUT,  positioning both hooks level and spaced precisely for the keyhole hangers is a challenge.
If the back of the painting will allow it then i would use  the French cleat method. If i do not construct one myself from wood then i  use the Hangman Picture Hanging system.
It may bridge two studs or at least one, and the picture can slide side to side somewhat if you need.


Do I need to glue down linoleum flooring?

There is a whole new generation of fiberglass, not vinyl, flooring that is self laying. The various manufacturers say wit will lay flat, not curl or bubble without adhesive. I have my doubts, but admit I have not used it without adhesive. The manufacturer does says that when adhesive is used, it can only be "Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive", never standard vinyl sheet goods adhesive.

In a small room like you have, I'd test the no glue theory. If it doesn't work well, it's easy enough to go back and glue it down with pressure sensitive adhesive.


Under UK Building Codes are you allowed to add an additional stopcock?

I don't why you couldn't install a new stop cock after the current one but in a more accessible location. We've installed shut off valves at various points so we can work on each sink/bath/toilet/shower without having to turn off the whole supply. This is just an extension of that principle.

The main argument against more than one actual stop cock is (I assume) the potential confusion it could cause.

However, you would have to turn the water off to do this - which would entail finding the existing stop cock (and we're back where we started).

Theoretically you could turn the water off outside - but, as Mike says, you're not really supposed to touch those.


Why is my gas furnace vibrating when blowing hot air but not when blowing cold air?

The blower very likely does spin at different speeds when heating vs. cooling. This is not uncommon at all. In heating mode they typically are on a low speed, while in cooling or fan mode they are typically on high speed.

As such, it could certainly be the case that there is some imbalance in your blower that excites a harmonic frequency of your furnace at low speed, but when the blower is turning faster at high speed, no sympathetic vibrations are excited; hence vibrations with heat, but not with A/C.

As others have said, it may also be the case that you have an induced draft blower for your gas furnace that is causing the vibration, but these are typically much smaller blowers than the "main" blower.


Filling deep gaps at corners of maple flooring

Patching with the scrap flooring where you have a big enough gaps seems the best idea.

You also could use small shoe or stop molding around the base of the door jamb and casing (assuming the casing is not too complex). Paint it to match the trim. It will largely disappear.


How can I fix a sink drain stop which won't hold water?

Sounds like a bad O-Ring on the stopper.

Here is a good picture for reference.

To remove the stopper, you'll have to remove the retaining nut at the back of the drain body.  Once that's removed you'll pull the pivot rod out, this will allow you to remove the stopper.

Now that you have the stopper out, visually inspect the rubber gasket around the bottom of the plug (just under the chrome part).  If the gasket is worn or cracked, you'll have to either replace it, or the entire stopper.

If you take the stopper with you to the hardware store, somebody there should be able to help you find what you need.

To put it all back together, put the stopper in the drain, insert the pivot rod (so it interacts with the stopper), then tighten the retaining nut back down.  You can make minor adjustments by loosening the set screw that holds the lift rod to the clevis, and adjusting how deep the lift rod goes into the clevis.

WARNING:

Don't over tighten the retaining nut, or you could find that you won't be able to move the lift rod.


What's the purpose of this bundle of small wires in my closet?

That's twisted pair communications cable. Could be used for phone or data and sometimes used (or misused) for other things.

More pictures would be helpful. Like the cables above the photo and some different angles. One thing that's confusing is those black stripes on that gray cable. Are those other wires within the cable or something else?

A pair is a colored cable with a white striped cable. Blue and white blue striped for example.

Telephones need one pair. A 4 pair cable can contain 4 telephone lines. Blue and white blue is typically line 1. Orange pair is line 2 then green and brown are lines 3 and 4 respectively. People don't always follow conventions though.

Older computer networks require 2 pairs. More recent networking requires 4 pairs. The mess of wires you have is more indicative of telephone (or something else) rather than data.

I see a blue pair that is connected to 3 or 4 other blue pairs by splitting the blue and blue white, bundling them and wire nutting them. I've never seen that done before. The single blue pair would be my best guess for the incoming main phone line.

You have some orange and brown pairs going to a keystone Jack which I have no idea why someone would do that from just this photo. If those orange and brown pairs come from that same cable that the blue pair came form it may be a second and third line. Home office and fax maybe.  If from a different cable... Who knows. Can't really tell from picture. Maybe from cable modem for voice, maybe from VoIP adapter maybe something completely else. Hopefully not speaker wire since that's not the type of speaker wire you want to be running through your walls.

It would be helpful to know what Jack's you see upstairs and if the number of Jack's you find correspond to the number of wires in the photo.

There are better ways to distribute these types of cables.

The simplest is to use a phone distribution board. It has a 110 wiring block that you punch down the 4 pairs from your incoming cable and then additional blocks for each cable that runs to a wall Jack. On one of my websites I have an article on organizing home phone lines that shows more detail that you might find useful.

I eventually ran new cables and decided to use a 110 block, which is another wiring device. It's more complicated but also more flexible. Being more complicated made the project more enjoyable for me and for some reason I find it very satisfying to use a punch down tool I got to use a lot with the 110 block. I have an article on how to wire a 110 block.

A 66 block is another type of wiring device that is used for phones. It's an older style but still frequently preferred for phones.

My guess as to what's going on.

Since you provide more pictures and details this is what I think is going on. I left out the unused wires and only draw one line to represent a pair of wires for simplicity. Let me know if this diagram corresponds to what you see.

The three blue cables lead up to the phone jacks where you plug in your phones.

The grey wire is the incoming phone line from the telephone provider. It has the dial tone.

Line 1 is the blue pair and the main phone line used. All 3 blue cables have their blue pair tied to the incoming blue pair. There's also a grey flat cable with RJ11 connector connected to line 1 (I'll discuss this later) and another blue pair that runs down the left side of the photo and I can't see where that goes.

Also from the same grey cable (as far as I can tell) the green and brown pairs are punched down to the keystone jack. Then the green and brown pairs of the blue cable to the right are connected to this keystone with a modular plug. This might be a business line and fax line for a home office or something similar. The other end of the blue cable might be split off so that the blue pair goes to one jack and the green and brown go to another.

The reason for the flat cable RJ11 plug might be just to have a quick way to test the phone line at the source if there's a problem. It might also be that the person wanted to be able to have a way to quickly send line 1 to the jack that is fed by the green/black pairs in case they disconnected that phone service. All they would need to do is disconnect the green/brown wire plug from the keystone and insert the RJ11 that is connected to the blue wirenutted wires.


I'm looking for a drywall finish that will hold a magnet

If you really want to securely hold objects that heavy to the wall using magnets, I think you need to be working with sheet metal on top of the drywall (or in place of the drywall).

The magnetic force will fall off very quickly with distance away from the plate, so even skim-coating with plaster will dramatically reduce the holding power of the magnet.

If you want the surface to blend in with the surrounding walls (you didn't actually state the finish on the walls, but I'm assuming it's painted sheetrock or plaster), try simply painting the steel sheet to match. The texture of the finish might be slightly different, but I'd imagine it wouldn't take away from the feeling that it "blends in" with the surrounding walls.

As others have stated, I'd also consider a polycarbonate mirror rather than glass.


Best practice varies with the climate.

If you open up venting between the basement and the dirt crawl, cover the dirt crawl with a moisture barrier.
Consider instead sealing the crawl entrance from the finished basement air, and opening a vent to the outdoors.
In SOME areas you may be allowed to put a fan to the outdoors. Mechanically controlled by humidity, it would offer the best of both cold and warm weather performance.

For research on this topic see,

Moisture Solution Becomes Efficiency Bonanza in Southeastern United States, PDF by Bruce Davis and Cyrus Dastur, AdvancedEnergy.org -Crawl Spaces


That's pretty normal for a ground fault in the early point of developing.  It's only going to get worse.

You troubeshoot it in the normal way, unplug the suspect pump and see if the trips stop happening.  If it does, there's your answer.


The neutral wire is sparking because it is loose and carries a load.  Technically this is referred to as a non-linear load, or a unbalanced load.

Most folks just refer to it as the return load, or neutral load.

Solution

A qualified technician should tighten the loose screw and give a slight tug on the wire to carefully make sure it is secured and not damaged from the arching.  Also while the panel cover is open, the qualified tech should make sure all the other terminal connections are secured and not loose.

I personally would not recommend this as DIY job.


Wiring ethernet cable from AT&T fiber Modem to a specific room

Your basic plan is just fine. The key problem you are having is figuring out which cable is which. The secondary problem you may be having is making sure the jacks are wired correctly. There are tools designed specifically for both of these tasks. Pros get the good stuff. For a once-in-a-while use you can probably make do with the cheaper versions. A couple of specific examples:
Toner
That's "generate a tone and detect it", not "powder that goes in a laser printer" :-)
While you can buy a tone generator and a tone detector as separate items, normally you buy them together. Here is one I purchased recently, which I like because it is relatively inexpensive (so I don't get too upset if someone borrows it and breaks it) and it has "ends" for Ethernet, coax, phone, etc. so I can use it for any type of wiring job.

Cable Tester
There are plenty of these around. When I started in the network business, similar devices cost a few hundred dollars - and were worth every penny. I currently have a Klein Tools VDV LAN Scout Jr. Tester:

which includes one adapter for the remote end and gives very quick readings of the status of all 8 pins. There are plenty of others - e.g., some on Amazon for < $10, though some cheapies will last a long time, some will list a reasonable amount of time (1/5 the cost, 1/5 the lifetime and if you only need it once in a while that works great) and some hardly work at all. YMMV.


Changing adjustable fixture light bulb when socket and housing are loose

It looks like the lampholder part of the fixture had a threaded boss, which the swivel post screwed into, and that has broken.

You might be able to repair by disassembling and using washers, lockwashers and a matching threaded nut on the inside of the lampholder part. It would take significant effort so it might be easier/better to just replace the fixture. You should definitely not use it like it is.


Multi Wire Branch Circuit
You have an MWBC. It provides 2x the power with 1.5x the wires (3 wires instead of 4). The catch is:

If wired to a typical double-receptacle, you need to remove the tab for it to work properly
Neutral (white) must be wired in a way that removing a device from the circuit won't affect other devices
Must have a double-breaker or handle-tied breaker

Your old setup has all of that. What it doesn't have is GFCI protection. While with an ordinary single circuit, you can install GFCI at the point of use (a combination GFCI/receptacle) or in the panel, with an MWBC the usual solution is in the panel. You do actually have an alternative, but it is more work and only makes sense if you also want to have more receptacles:

Replace this receptacle with a combination GFCI/receptacle. Do not remove the tab. Connect black to hot, white to a pigtail to neutral.
Add a new combination GFCI/receptacle in another location (could be another box right next to this one or could be on the other side of the garage, whatever you want). Do not remove the tab. Run a new cable 14/2 (or 12/2 is OK) and connect the existing red wire to the black wire of the new cable and connect the white wire of the new cable to the old white/pigtail (i.e., don't chain it through the receptacle). Then wire up the new receptacle standard black/hot, white/neutral.

That will essentially split the MWBC into two separate circuits, each of which can handle a full 15A load. If you want to use two large tools in one place and nothing else, then the existing receptacles (plus GFCI in the panel for safety) makes sense. But having 4 receptacles (2 on each of 2 circuits) can be very useful.


How much weight can a piece of 5/8" drywall hold on a hinge?

From what you describe it should work but better would be to also glue those wood strips to the face of the drywall pieces using some construction adhesive.

I think it will look a but hokey and crude, especially with the open raw edges of the drywall all around.


It is perfectly within reason to have #12 wire protected by a 30A breaker when the circuit feeds an A/C unit. Depends on the specs of the unit. I would not expect the average home inspector to know this.

A/C units, welders and electric motors have different rules than the "standard" breaker sizing rules. Things are NOT always as simple as a chart at the home center or a simple electrical book.

For an air con unit you would typically size the conductors to the minimum circuit ampacity (MCA), and size the breaker to the maximum overcurrent protection (MOP). This is not a hard and fast rule, but it is typical and works for most installations.

It's kind of complicated, but it's all in the NEC, Art.440, Section III.

Here is an excellent overview on Art440 by one of the most respected names in the electrical business, Mike Holt: http://www.dantespeakheatingcooling.com/upload/Mike_Holt_NEC.pdf
See Figure 440-5 and 440-6 in this .pdf for a clear explanation.


How can I use the existing structured wiring panel to get internet throughout my house?

It looks like this was originally intended for telephone service distribution.

There's a few ways to go about it depending on how neat and tidy you want the job to look.

You can pull those blue wires free from the termination block, crimp them with rj-45 heads, and plug them into your switch. Quicker, Easier, Cheapest.
You can replace the punchdown block in the picture with a mini patch panel. More work, cost, but nicer finished look.  You will then need to also buy a handfull of 6 inch patch cables to connect it up from your switch.

You should trace and label those cables as well so you know where they go.

It's likely that one does not end in your apartment, but is going to the street or a patch panel elsewhere intended to provide phone service.  To prevent damage, do not connect this one to your network equipment.


Here is the code references per 2014 NEC: 110.14.C- Conductors with temperature ratings higher than specified terminations shall be permitted to be used for ampacity adjustments corrections or both.
215.15.A-  where a feeder supplies a combination of continuous loads or any combination of continuous and non continuous loads the minimum feeder size shall have an ampacity not less than the non continuous loads plus 125% of the continuous loads.
Table 310.15.B.3.A- adjustment factors for more than 3 current carrying conductors.
4-6= 80%
original comment:
I don't have my code book handy so I will post this as a comment. You can use the ampacity of the wire at 90 for derating but you can not exceede the 75 deg table for a final value. Also if your planned loads are continuous (+3 hour loads) that portion of the load needs to be at 125%. Unless I am setting up a sub for a dedicated non continuous load I use 125% of the feeder breaker size. But using the specs for 90 deg and derating is legal.


How can I transition a square duct to round of the same outer size?

They do exist. Best bet is probably to contact a local sheet metal shop, if they don't have one they can build one. Expect this to cost in the tens of dollars range.

You could potentially cap the end, and then use a round duct takeoff. The downside is it will restrict flow to the vent because of the abrupt end and sharp angles internally.

There's another type of side takeoff that is rectangular, and if you can find one you could potentially modify it yourself using a couple strategic cuts and copious amounts of foil tape.


How can I hang a large mirror on an uneven (warped?) wall?

I'd simply install washers behind the clips to act as standoffs. Be sure your screws are long and stout enough. Use washers as needed to create a small gap behind the mirrors at all mounting points, allowing alignment between mirrors.

This could create a visual bounce/jiggle effect if the mirrors aren't stiff enough. Use balls of poster putty or other flexible material at several places across the backs of the mirrors to act as anchor supports. This will also provide structural support in the event of an accidental collision.


How do I make skirting boards removable?

You could do the following:

Cut skirting board to size
Attached it to the wall with glue-on hook and loop tape (often called by the brand name Velcro®)
Cut and place a thinner quarter round or ogee molding along the top edge of the skirting, conforming it to the curves in the wall
Attach top molding with glue and brads, only to the skirting, being carefull not to get any glue on walls (masking tape or waxed paper can be used)
After glue dries, remove skirting/moulding unit
Paint skirting/moulding unit
Reinstall.


Do-It garage door opener will not close without holding down the button

Having to hold down the button is a classic "something has interrupted the beam" symptom. Simply disconnecting the sensors will not bypass this behavior. If it did, then a sensor failure would cause the door to work anyway, creating a safety issue.


Your picture suggests that they are different truss types. The fact that one doesn't have the vertical member in the middle doesn't mean that it isn't needed. I could design a roof without any bracing members - that doesn't mean that you can go and take out bracing members from a different roof. My design would need chunkier members and connections to take the different loads, whereas the roof with bracing members would have smaller members, as it will have been designed assuming those bracing members were there.

More than likely the reason it is there is because it is needed. But there's no problem with employing a structural engineer to confirm this.


Replaced 4-way electrical switch with new one with ground. Will it work without the ground?

I hooked up the 4 wires in the same position

That's your problem right there.  Common blunder with 3/4 way switches.
Manufacturers completely randomize screw positions on the switches.  Every switch is different.  You cannot rely on positions at all.
You must use screw colors.
Fortunately, this is not too bad to clean up: simply group your 4 wires by the cables they come in on, so you have cable 1/wire 1-2...... and cable 2/wire 1-2.
Now, on cable 1, put its 2 wires on the black screws.
On cable 2, put its 2 wires on the brass screws.
And you're done.
On your switch grounding, if the junction box is metal, your work is done.  Switches ground though the 2 mounting screws.   Otherwise if you see ground wires in the back of the box, you can pigtail a ground wire off of them and bring it to the switch.  Note that adding a pigtail can entail a number of supplies and tools you don't necessarily have!
Lastly, a 1-second delay in a light starting cannot be caused by any plain switch.  Unless your existing switch(es) have some sort of smart-switch/dimmer feature, it ain't them.
A 1-second delay is typical of certain fluorescent and LED lights, however.   In the case of fluorescents, it is the tube being pre-heated for a soft start that extends the life of the tube (which is VERY long).  In LED, there's really no reason for it.


Old bathroom gas heater - how to cap it off?

While in theory gas fitting isn't very different from other kinds of plumbing, the consequences getting it wrong are obviously much worse. If you care about safety enough to want to disable this heater, I strongly suggest that you also care enough to want a pro to deal with disconnection and capping of the pipe.

If there's a valve in the line as well as in the appliance, closing that is an alternative. More easily reversible, and possible to DIY ... though me being paranoid, I'd be inclined to carefully check for signs of leakage after mucking with that. (Soapy water test at least, preferably a gas leakage alarm)

Quick thought: if you ever turn that heater back on, might be worth having a carbon monoxide check done, and tuning it to minimize that.


Hot Tub Disconnect Box 220V with a neutral and ground/No neutral in main panel

Connect the white wire to the bar the other white wires are connected to -- it is not rare for a main service panel to have a combined neutral and ground busbar, as that is the (only!) point where neutral and ground connect.


Descaling a top loading washing machine without a built in heater

I think using a bucket of hot water would be fine, just don't use water over 60 C (140 F). In my experience descaling a tea kettle with white vinegar length of time is a factor. You might pour in the descaling solution and let it sit for an hour or two before you start the cycle.

I do not think you need hot water for the rinse.


I recently repainted mine after aging 5 years.  They are maintenance free, but the color will fade.  Sherwin Williams sells paint specifically for shutters and they had an exact match for my shutter color.  You just wash and paint.  They'll look as good as new!


Why does my toilet make a high pitched whine when it refills?

Depending on the age of the toilet mechanism, you may have an easy fix. If it is a partially clogged valve (as suggested in the comment by ratchet freak) and if it is one of the newer type units, the upper part of the valve can be easily accessed.

Many toilet filler valves look something like this one

The top cap comes off these valves, usually by pressing down slightly with your palm and rotating counterclockwise. Immediately below the cap is usually a strainer filter that can get clogged. Cleaning this out usually solves the problem. Then just reinstall the cap.

If you have a different type of valve, you need to ascertain whether that is where the noise is coming from. With the lid off the tank, you may be able to confirm the source of the sound. If it is the valve, you may be able to determine what part of the mechanism is causing the obstruction.

If the cause is the valve, but the cure is not readily apparent, it probably is worth changing the mechanism, which is cheap and fairly easily done. The repair kits have complete instructions and basically involve

turning off the water supply
draining the tank
uncoupling the supply line from the bottom of the mechanism
unscrewing the nut that holds the mechanism on (from the outside bottom of the tank)
inserting the new mechanism in the hole and attaching the nut
reattaching the supply line
turning on the water supply
adjusting the max fill level

Not too hard for even an amateur DIYer. Just be ready to quickly turn off the shutoff valve if there are any leaks (even a drop), and patiently redo any joints that are not absolutely watertight (the instructions will explain about teflon tape, etc.)


This hole in a concrete porch needs fixing

Knowing that the earth has subsided from underneath the porch (and it's all cracked, anyway), I'd ask for a discount along the lines of what it would cost to bust it up, throw it away and re-pour it.

I bet I could sink that porch into the basement with a hammer. Move on to the next house, unless you both want to play the discount game.

If you're going to call out a truck to pour 12+ yards of concrete, you might as well have a nice, entirely new pour. If we really want to get into how to 'fix' this, we'd need a lot more pictures and knowledge of the substrate in this particular situation.


Can Someone Help Me Identify This Switch?

Hey for anyone who hits with with an actual switch problem.
I've fixed many a switch, by taking it apart, buffing and cleaning the contacts and adding a bit of dialectic grease.
This might not make a switch new, but it sure gets 'em working for a good long time.


Curtains for a non-air-conditioned apartment in the tropics

I grew up in the 1940s and 1950s in hot, humid south Louisiana and hot, less humid Dallas, Texas. We had no a/c in Louisiana and starting in about 1954 in Dallas we had window units in some rooms, but not in the bedroom I shared with my brother. In 1960 we moved to a new house in Dallas, Texas with central a/c. The improvement in comfort was astounding.

After leaving home I sometimes lived in downscale student digs without a/c and it was sub-optimal, but obviously tolerable. One place was cooled with an "evaporative cooler" or water fan. Mumbai is presumably too humid for those to be effective. For two years in my mid twenties I lived comfortably without a/c in Fiji near Suva, but Fiji's summer high temperatures are low compared to Dallas or Mumbai.

If you can afford it, I do not think you should deny yourself a/c in Mumbai on the grounds of damage to the environment.

But as far as other interventions on your existing house, outside louvers over the windows would be better than curtains inside. Louvers would reduce solar gain while still allowing airflow into the room. The sun will heat the louvers but much of the heat will stay outside.


Is it safe to cut a bit into a "Double Header(?)" over a closet door that supports ceiling beams?

From International Residential Code, your local planning department is the final authority on what may or may not be done after inspecting what modifications you are intending to do. This is a job that requires a permit and consultation with an experienced contractor.

R802.7.1 Sawn lumber. Notches in solid lumber joists, rafters, blocking and beams shall not exceed one-sixth of the depth of the member, shall not be longer than one-third of the depth of the member and shall not be located in the middle one-third of the span. Notches at the ends of the member shall not exceed one-fourth the depth of the member. The tension side of members 4 inches (102 mm) or greater in nominal thickness shall not be notched except at the ends of the members. The diameter of the holes bored or cut into members shall not exceed one-third the depth of the member. Holes shall not be closer than 2 inches (51 mm) to the top or bottom of the member, or to any other hole located in the member. Where the member is also notched, the hole shall not be closer than 2 inches (51 mm) to the notch.

The tension side of members: In normal gravity loading, this is the bottom of the beam, in cantilever, the top of the beam.


What is this hinged metal hardware with an eyelet?

It's a "fangs" style fastener- I use similar styles to hang junk in my cubicle. The teeth latch on to the foam board in my cubicle walls, or it could also be used to grab the foam backing of a picture frame. Found it on amazon by googling "Eye Fastener for Foam Board"

Drytac Push/Pull Hinged Hanger


Attaching closet door divider to laminate

Drill oversize holes (3/8" to 1/2" or so) just through the flooring that are still concealed by the divider's base plate, and mount the divider directly to the subfloor. You may want to use nylon or metal bushings to hold the divider at the same level as the floor (to avoid pinching the flooring), and you may need to purchase longer screws.

Use a sharp bit, ideally a "pilot point", and a high bit speed with low force. If you don't have a pilot point bit, start with about a 1/8" bit and progress up in size.


Ground to neutral bus/connector on receptacle

No, but if you do make SURE the wiring is correct and the neutral is valid. Personally I'd trace the cable back to the previous device and ensure the integrity of the neutral.

I suspect someone may have done a serious and dangerous hack job wiring that receptacle because of a problem with the neutral.


As further discussed in your post here:
Is my dishwasher air gap manufactured incorrectly?

It's not that you cant have loops in the line, its more about having a proper run per manufacturers guidelines. The dishwasher has a pump, it is going to pump as much water as it can through the line to it's endpoint. Too long of a run will leave dirty water in the line, do not exceed the length or height the dishwasher tell you to.

For the disposal side of it, there is NO PUMP, so the air gap is that, all gravity.

From your other post, as water is going into the air gap, it runs to the disposal. However, in your run here, the grey line has a few feet of water sitting below the disposal, thus, you are going to need ~3'*5/8"ID worth of water weight to move water into the disposal. Shorten the grey line run, make it direct, and both problems in both questions should be resolved unless your disposal or trap has a clog or slow moving drain due to an impending clog or water flow etc.


can you immediately apply a coat of joint compound over the tape?

It should be done separately, set tape first let it dry, then the build up coat, let that dry, then final skim. If you do the build up coat immediately after setting the tape, the shrinkage will be enough where the skim coat will not fill the depression left by the excessive shrinkage of the 2 coats applied together.

I have gotten past this by using a fast setting joint compound that is dry in the package and mixed with water. Not only can you do tape and do the buld up coat, shrinkage is less than regular ready mixed joint compound.


What is this clunking noise in my water pipe?

I had this exact scenario in my home and the culprit turned out to be a failing pressure regulator valve.  It's typically installed after the shutoff valve where the line enters the home and will probably have a bolt going into the side of the device that would be used to adjust the pressure.

To see if this is the case, go over to the home improvement store and pickup a water pressure gauge that screws onto a garden faucet.  Attach the device to any fixture, open the valve and leave it, then go inside and turn on the cold water for 5 seconds, back off, and go back to the gauge to see if it starts climbing as the pipes bang.

You may also notice toilets or other valves leaking in the house if you have an overpressure situation.  I ended up replacing several leaking toilet valves and a sink valve because of pressure issues.

Replacing this can be a DIY job if you're comfortable cutting and soldering pipes.

Edit: here's a sample picture


How does a temperature regulator with a single wire work?

It's almost certainly capillary tubing with a fluid inside it.


Well I used a jack to punch through the mess and it turns out it was indeed just blockage. There was a bunch of crud randomly piled on top. I have no idea how it three stoogered into looking intentional.


15A breaker tripping when Air Conditioning comes on

Could the motor failing be the cause of the overload?

Normally, there is an overload fuse or breaker on the air handler / evaporator that protects the motor at more like 3 amps. This is supposed trip if the motor is overloaded. The 15 amp breaker is supposed to protect the conductors to the air handler / evaporator.

  What is the likelihood that both the blower and the thermostat are on the same circuit?

Yes. The thermostat is actually 24volt on the secondary side of a 120volt to 24 volt transformer fed by the 15 amp circuit.

If the breaker keeps tripping that is telling you something is broke.

Call a reputable HVAC or electrical contractor to take a look at it.

Good luck!


Cheapest way to heat and cool a converted garage?

If your current AC is not adequate to extend to the garage area, then a ductless mini-split wall mounted AC unit is probably ideal for your situation. Once installed, you'll likely exceed the $1500 budget, but I think it's the best of the options. You wall mount half of the unit inside the home and run the cooling lines through the wall and out to an exterior coil. They also have a condensation drain line that you run outside to help with the humidity.


Replacing attic light switch with Leviton combo

Romex 1 and 2 are using backstabs, which is not a good idea for other reasons.

The backstab is simply connected to the screw nearest it, internal to the device.  It's supposed to be an "either-or", but some people like to use it to splice the 2 wires together.

It would be the same as if the two wires were joined at a wire nut, with a pigtail from there to the device screw.  That is exactly what you should change that to.

On a switch

One side is always-hot, and the other is switched hot to the lamp.  There would be no reason to have 2 cables feeding switched-hot.  Unless you had 2 lights.

It would be very common, however, to have multiple always-hot wires in a box; the second one would be going onward to other loads.

The grounds are nutted together ordinarily.  The neutrals likewise, you may be adding a wire to this neutral bundle to power the smart switch.

How I would hook it up.

First I would get some red electrical tape and mark the wire to the lamp with red tape.

A switch-outlet hooks up exactly like a smart switch, but without the convenient pigtails.   So I would make pigtails.

Get about 7" of 12/3 cable.  14/3 will work if you are sure all the wires in the box are #14. Tear off the sheath to salvage the wires.  Then:

bare wire to the green screw
white wire to the silver screw
red wire to the brass screw right next to the silver screw
black wire to one of the black screws on the other side

Then I'd join all the wires color to color, remembering you marked the lamp black wire red.  Normally you can't count on wire color codes, but I made it work here.

There are more efficient ways to do this, but they are not as clear.


"Wire", eh?  Romex NM/UF/SE/MH/whatever multiconductor building cable is out of the question. It's not flexible, and is made for immobile use in protected locations, like behind walls, rafters, underground or in conduit. You can't use building cable for flexible cord at all.

Even if you have proper cordage, you're not allowed to homebrew extension cords with a handi-box and some cord.  Specifically, 400.8 disallows any flexible cords

  Used as substitutes for the fixed wiring of a structure.
  Run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended or dropped ceilings, or floors.
  Run through doorways, windows, or similar openings.
  Attached to building surfaces.
  Concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings — or located above suspended or dropped ceilings.
  Installed in raceways, except as permitted elsewhere in the NEC.
  Used or installed in a manner that unduly exposes them to physical damage.

400.7 carves out exceptions where you are allowed to use flexible cords:

  Pendants [210.50(A) and 314.23(H)] if the cords are identified for pendant use in Table 400.4.
  Wiring of luminaires as allowed by 410.24(A) and 410.62(B).
  Connection of portable luminaires, portable and mobile signs, or appliances as allowed in 422.16 [400.7(A)(3), but when used with attachment plugs [400.7(B)].
  Elevator cables.
  Wiring of cranes and hoists.
  Connection of utilization equipment to facilitate frequent interchange [422.16], but only when used with attachment plugs [400.7(B)].
  Prevention of the transmission of noise or vibration [422.16].
  Appliances where the fastening means and mechanical connections are specifically designed to permit ready removal for maintenance and repair, and the appliance is intended or identified for flexible cord connections [422.16], but only when used with attachment plugs [400.7(B)].
  Connection of moving parts.
  Where specifically permitted elsewhere in the NEC.


How many holes can a masonry drill bit make?

I can't give an exhaustive scientific answer, but I have plenty of hammerdrilling experience, both with SDS bits and smooth shank bits. I have a Bosch Bulldog and seeing that you'll be drilling for hours into concrete, would strongly encourage you to be using this or some other SDS handling tool:

It depends on the diameter of your bit and how deep each hole is - I have drilled hundreds of holes with my half inch SDS bit without any sign of weakening (though moderate wear on the tip is apparent). But whether SDS or smooth shank, a 3/16" bit such as is used for drilling for 1/4" masonry lags can be expected to drill, oh, my best guess is maybe 200 3-inch holes before becoming significantly dull (breaking is almost always user error). This is assuming concrete without foreign objects.

Perhaps due to your remote location, you are stuck with a non-SDS battery hammerdrill. Those Irwin bits should work okay in that case, just at least twice as slow as the SDS system (which is why I would really encourage you to get your hands on the SDS drill).

In the final analysis, I would calculate one bit per hundred holes if you're using 3/16" bits. You will probably break some.


My three way lamp is suddenly just one way. Is this an electrical problem or fire hazard?

The most likely explanation is that one of the two filaments inside 3 way bulb burnt out or broke.

If it was already close to burning out before you moved the lamp, the mechanical shock of moving may have broken it the rest of the way -- perhaps it broke completely so you didn't see the characteristic "flash" of a filament burning out when you turned on the lamp for the first time after moving it.

You could test the lamp contacts in the socket with a continuity tester at each switch position to verify that this is the case, but a much easier (and definitive) test would be to replace the bulb with a new 3-way bulb and see if it works.


When installing tile, use Flexbond mortar and admix instead of water. This mortar with the admix creates a very strong chemical bond in the mortar and then equally strong mechanical bond to the hardibacker board.

This combo is designed to install tile over wood or other flooring that might have "flex." Very effective installation wherever mild instability is a concern.


I would hang the frames on nails or screws with suitable heads, and then secure the frames at the bottom using double stick tape or poster putty. This will prevent them from being inadvertently lifted or bumped off the anchors.

I have found that drywall nails have the right combination of size and a wide thin head for this purpose. if you need to use hollow wall anchors, some drywall screws have a head with enough of a flange that they might work well.


How to remove broken threaded water pipe

There is a tool that will remove the pipe. It works on the inside of the pipe so it needs none of the pipe to grab onto. This one set may work, but this is the type I think is more reliable.


In our house the toilets are directly on the porcelain tile with no pad. One toilet rocked and required plastic wedges to stop the rocking. These wedges are made specifically for toilets.


Horizontal fire blocking when using rigid foam in basement?

You don't need to interrupt the foam insulation with fireblocking, but if there's a gap between the foam insulation and your framed wall, then you'll need fireblocking across the gap every 10 feet.

IBC 2015, 718.2:

  In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be installed to cut off concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and shall form an effective barrier between floors, between a top story and a roof or attic space. Fireblocking shall be installed in the locations specified in Sections 718.2.2 through 718.2.7.

While 718.2.2 designates a "concealed wall space" as requiring fireblocking, 718.2 (quoted above) prescribes the nature of this fireblocking: It interrupts "concealed draft openings." Building your framed wall tight to the foam will avoid any draft openings, but if you've got a gap between the framed wall and your foam, then that's a draft opening that will need a fireblock every 10 feet.


Is my bathroom project prohibited due to a low ceiling height?

It may be possible to be granted an exception regardless of what code states depending on the flexibility of the Authority Having Jurisdiction.

Ask the Authority Having Jurisdiction. In other words, ask your local building department or whomever has authority to approve permits where you live to see what they require and whether they would permit such an exception.

For example: When I was finishing my basement, I have a point that goes below minimum required ceiling height for my state's building code. My local building department follows my state's building code. My state's building code is generally based on the International Residential Code, but has a few exceptions (one noted difference in my state is the required minimum height for finished ceiling heights and protrusions when finishing pre-existing unfinished basements). My building department granted me the exception I listed in the submitted plans. This example also shows exactly how locale-specific this question is.


What size of ceiling joists should I use

The 2X4's you are looking at are collar ties attached to the end of the rafters and span wall to wall.  They are really only strong enough to support ceiling materials, not a live load. The new floor joists will need to rest on the upper wall plate (load bearing) adjacent to a rafter, and cross supported.

The items you need to determine are span, joist spacing and material to be used as floor joists.  This link shows a chart in feet and inches for you application: http://www.the-house-plans-guide.com/joist-span-tables.html. Even on short spans, I would never go any smaller than 2X8's to assure a flex free floor.

The second issue you will face is insulating the roof.  The size of your rafters are going to dictate how much insulation you can install. If they are less that say, 2X10, you will not be able to get a good R-value. You may have to consider maxing out the cavities with blanket insulation, then also adding some 2 inch rigid foam sheets over the entire field to increase the total R value. You could then install strapping (purlins), with long screws, to mount drywall to. In this kind of roof design, there would be no venting required. This is a very common type of construction on cathedral type ceilings.  Good luck.


Dimmer burned and the breaker tripping on an existing LED circuit

The LED "circuits" that landed on the same breaker may have been interconnected at a switch box, who knows why, but maybe somebody else didn't know what they were doing.  At any rate, when you re-arranged the breakers, you probably moved one to the opposite phase of a 240 v circuit, resulting in supplying 240 volts to a 120 volt device. They don't like that!
BTW, why change it? Power consumption by LEDS is so very low that you can practically run an entire house's lighting on one circuit. I prefer at least 2, but I don't think you had a problem initially. What was the problem you were trying to fix?


Suddenly spongy/creaky floorboard patch. What's going on?

Most obvious are dry rot, termites, and moisture damage. It could be a very slow leak because even if the pipe is further away--water often goes mysteries ways.

Or maybe as simple as a fastener settling.

I would just keep an eye on it and see what happens next.


Which varnish to choose for a first time job (desk)?

Since you'll be finishing the pieces in the building, lacquer is out.  It stinks to high Heaven and unless you use a pre-catalized lacquer, it is prone to water stains such as condensation from a cold glass of water.
I used to prefer oil based Polyurethane but that can have a strong odor too and that odor can last a while.  For simple, tough, (not fancy) finishes I now prefer a water based Polyurethane such as MINWAX (I know, not supposed to do product recommendations).  It's envrionmentally friendly, easy to clean up brushes, etc. after applying.  It does have some odor, but it usually goes away pretty quick.  It also dries quickly.  It will "raise the grain" a bit on the first coat, so you'll need to sand lightly to knock that back down. Second coat should dry very smooth.  Since this will probably get fairly heavy use I'd go three coats.   No sanding needed between 2nd and 3rd coats unless there are rough spots.
Edit:  Adding that you can use a high quality brush and it will level out pretty well.  Again, don't worry if the first coat ends up a bit rough, that's normal.  Just sand lightly and remove all the dust before 2nd coat.


Does anyone have the name of a liquid that bonds to rust and produces a hard black finish?

I found it by searching. It is more than a primer. It actually bonds to the rust. It somehow chemically...does something...I read about it years ago.

A user must be extremely careful working with it. You don't want it on your skin. You don't want to drop a bit of rust into the jar. You don't want to double-dip a brush into the jar. The whole container could react and harden. You pour out or scoop out some into a separate container to use what you think you will need.

Oh...Duh...The name of the product...

It is called Permatex Rust Treatment. I used it years ago on my car. It worked well. You just have to follow the instructions and heed the warnings. I remember that it worked very well. It was much better than sanding, priming and painting. It reacts and somehow bonds to the rust itself.


How do I get a low voltage thermostat to control a 240v heater?

Not with that contactor

The contactor in your illustration is internal to the heater.  It is a 240V contactor and should never be connected to a 24V thermostat.

You are seeing 120V because your electronics training is in automotive or hobbyist DC electronics and you are stuck in the notion of a GND/common from which all voltages are measured.  You have permanently clipped your black voltmeter lead to the machine's chassis.  If you want that to work with mains power, try moving to the UK.  Here, everything is relative, there is no common, and you must measure between opposing terminals and leave safety ground out of it.

That contactor coil is 240V.

Switch the T-STAT line instead.

The T-STAT circuit is a pilot signal for the contactor whoch carries 240V but at very little current (limited by the contactor coil).  We can use that.  Note that it goes through a couple of safety interlocks, those should not be defeated.

I would put a much smaller contactor (i.e. Relay) to replace (or in series or parallel with) the "T-STAT" switch shown on the diagram.  That would be a relay with a 24V coil, 240V contacts and insulated for 240V.

Get a 24V supply transformer (they are $12 and attach to any junction box).  The transformer supplies R and C.   Run R, C and W to the thermostat, run C and W to the coil of the aforementioned relay, and you should be all good.

If you put this relay in series with the factory Thermostat, the heater will fire only when both thermostats call for heat, so set the factory 'stat to 90F setting so it is always calling for heat.

If you put this relay in parallel with the factory thermostat, the heater will fire when either thermostat asks, this can be a great way to make the thermostats be backups for each other.  Set the latter to 40F (or whatever you consider your don't-freeze-pipes minimums) so it is rarely calling for heat.


Should I leave NiCad rechargeable batteries charging when not in use for long periods?

The "memory effect" is not typically a problem with modern batteries.  The effect is generally "broken through" by large discharges, too, so if it's a battery for a power-tool, then it's a self-correcting problem.

Modern chargers won't over charge so you shouldn't have a problem.  Power consumption for continuous "trickle charge" is tiny.  Opening your refrigerator an extra time will probably amount to a year's worth of such charging.

Battery longevity may be reduced by it remaining warm for an extended period but it also degrades just sitting around.

Bottom line:  If it'll be a problem for you when you need to use your electric whatever and there is no charged battery, then leave a battery in the charger.

http://batteryuniversity.com/ has some of the best information about batteries.  I'm especially fond of this article on the maintenance of Li-Ion batteries: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries


Should I reinforce the floor over my basment to tile bathrooms?

Floor joists can bend (deflect) without breaking. However, certain kinds of flooring cannot deflect much or they’ll crack (or the grout joints between them will crack).

Each material is rated for maximum deflection. Ceramic tile happens to be one of those materials that cannot deflect much without cracking.

At a 12’-0” span, most lumber species will deflect too much. However, here are a few things to consider:

1) at 11’-0” most lumber species with a “standard” grade (No. 2 & better) will work.

2) span distance is measured from face of support to face of support. That is to say, it’s the “clear span”.

3) calculations are an average. That is to say, they use 40 lbs. per square foot for Live Load AND 10 lbs. per square foot for Dead Load. I suspect your live load will be less (take your weight plus your wife’s weight and divide by the room area), but your dead load is greater (weight of tile, mortar base, underlayment, subfloor, joists, ceiling below (if any), etc. )

If your span is 11’-8” or so and you do not weigh 350 lbs. each, I suspect you’re fine.  I’d go look at each joist and see if there are any large knots (especially loose knots). If not, the grade could be No. 1 or select structural and you’re probably ok.

As an alternative to adding a beam in the basement (happy wife, happy life) you could sister a joist to each of the 5-6 joists in the immediate area.


White stuff coming out of my wall when dry

That would be efflorescence on a concrete wall. Efflorescence is when water passes through the wall and evaporates on the surface. The minerals contained within the water can't evaporate, so they stick around, usually looking like a fine white powder on the surface. You can see the same thing with hard water that evaporates from a kitchen sink. It's not harmful to the wall, but it is ugly and will eventually ruin the paint, because the paint is likely impermeable to moisture (if it is acrylic, latex, alkyd, or oil-based), so it will bubble and peel over time as the water in the wall tries to escape.

The root cause is moisture movement through the wall, or, simply put, the wall getting wet. To prevent this, keep the wall from getting wet. Typically this is the job of the roof, but the wall itself can have its own protections. If the wall is simply a monolithic concrete slab with no finishing on the outside, that would contribute to the problem too. Broadly, what you want to do is to keep water out of the wall's core while letting water already there escape to the exterior side.

The cheapest solution would be to paint the exterior side of the wall with a breathable, vapor-permeable paint (e.g. a silicate mineral paint--NOT a typical paint!). The more complete and permanent solution would be to cover the exterior side of the wall with some type of breathable, vapor-permeable weather barrier substance (e.g. liquid-applied water-resistive barrier material, housewrap, asphalt-soaked paper) and then put up bricks or some other decorative covering.