How can I turn on a vent fan over a gas range when gas flow is detected?

The switch linked in the question (Dwyer model V6EPB-B-S-1-B) won't work because its actuation requirements are too high. From its data sheet, actuation-deactuation flow rates for air in SCFM for the 1/2" pipe size valve are 6.50/5.00. (I'm presuming that they'll be similar for a non-air gas, ie fuel gas.)

An article at hunker.com asserts that "In most cases, all burners on the stove adjust down to about 1,000 BTUs" but also states "a low flame on the stove may only use 400 BTUs even though the burner might have an 18,000 BTU capacity." That's a little inconsistent but it's a place to start. There's no time unit specified but typically Btu is per hour.

The FAQs at eia.gov indicate that "In 2018, the U.S. annual average heat content of natural gas for the residential, commercial, industrial, and transportation sectors was about 1,036 Btu per cubic foot."

Combining these typical numbers, we estimate that a large gas burner of 18,000 Btu/hr will result in a flow of 18000/1036/60 = 0.29 cubic feet per minute. That's significantly below the V6EPB-B-S-1-B thresholds. The low-flow model V6EPB-B-S-LF actuates as low as 0.18, so it could detect the burner at high flow, but it wouldn't stand a chance if the burner were turned down to 400 Btu/hr.

Perhaps you could consider sensing something else such as heat or light from the flame. Or latch the fan on automatically when the gas igniter is energized, and use the more distant switch to turn the fan off when it is no longer wanted.


In my personal opinion, it is always worth it to remove wall paper.  Even if this one doesn't have a strange texture to it, it's always easier to patch holes or similar things later if you don't have an extra layer of vinyl to deal with.

Wall paper and glue can really vary-- some of it is a royal pain to remove, while others just peel right off the wall.  I've had both in the same house.  A spray bottle of warm water really helps.  You might need to poke holes in the paper to let the water through; this tool makes it really easy to do so by just rolling it around on the wall.

In my opinion, your painting will definitely go easier with less hassles if you aren't trying to paint over vinyl.  Of course, "the proof is in the pudding": if painting over the vinyl works for you, there is no overwhelming need to remove the wallpaper.  It really is a personal preference; whatever works for you will be good enough.


Why does shutting off cold water valve to the water heater shut down cold water in entire house?

If that is truly the case as you reported it, something is seriously wrong with the design of your plumbing system and you are mixing hot and cold water all of the time, which would be costing you a fortune in electricity bills.

Are you sure it was ALL of the cold water lines that were off? On things like showers, bath faucets and in some places, sinks, there is an anti-scalding / temperature balance valve used to mix cold and hot automatically. With no hot water at all, it may have interpreted that as there being too much cold water, so it kept reducing the cold water in an attempt to balance the temperature. But that would typically not be associated with your toilets. MAYBE, if you are in an extreme environment where the toilets might freeze, someone did that to put a little warm water into the toilets too, but I have never seen that.


Can a cheap angle grinder be used to cut concrete and ceramic tiles?

In most cases the cost is directly related to expected durability. In expensive commercial/professional grade tools, parts spin on ball bearings and motors are more powerful. They are designed to run allday every day at maximum speed where time is money. Home owner grade tools typically are designed to be used for brief periods of time and at less than maximum performance levels for the majority of their use. They contain less powerful motors and parts spin on bushings instead of bearings. In most cases they will last a long time as long as you respect the design limitations of the tool. If it starts to get warm while using it stop work and let it cool a while. Don't force the tool if it starts to bog down back off the pressure and let the tool do the work. I have a 10 year old $30 grinder that I cut over 100 slate floor tiles with and it is still running strong.


Maybe you need plastic plugs (screws alone in drywall aren't enough), but traditional framing will have wood structure above and a couple inches to the outside of a window opening. If you can keep your brackets close to the edge, you should hit wood.


Should I drill through the concrete garage wall to install a generator inlet switch inside?

Do the right thing not the easy thing. The question here is, how much longer will the feed line be? if its just a few feet then there is no problem. What you want to avoid is a long extension between the generator and the house.  Long line = voltage drop. And there is cosmetics. Think how a professional would do the install and act acordingly.


What is this thing in the entryway of some houses?

Yep. Just a key/purse/phone shelf. You'd rest your items there while you pull on your coat and galoshes.


Retrofit Fan box for horizontal 2x4 truss


Is it OK to use 1/4" concrete backer board over 1/2" plywood as a bathroom subfloor?

1/2" plywood is for temporary applications, exterior sheathing and used as gigantic shims. It does not belong as a floor or a roof; minimum 5/8" exterior grade.

HardieBacker:

  What subfloor should HardieBacker board be installed over?
  The minimum subfloor specified is 5/8" exterior grade plywood or 23/32'' exterior grade OSB subflooring. HardieBacker board must be installed in accordance with local building codes and the floor must be engineered not to exceed the L/360 deflection criteria, including live and dead design loads, for the specific joist spacing used. HardieBacker board is not designed for use over concrete.

Durock:

  Subfloor should be minimum 5/8" exterior-grade OSB or plywood.

Wonderboard:

  For the subfloor, securely glue and fasten minimum 5/8" (16 mm) exterior grade plywood or OSB panels (PRP-108) to the floor joists. Floor joists should be spaced a maximum of 16" (40 cm) o.c.; a 3/4" (19 mm) Exterior Grade Plywood or OSB subfloor with I-joists spaced a maximum of 19.2" (48 cm) o.c. is also acceptable.

For the threshold you don't want something that overlaps, like this:

For a Hardwood transition, you want the type that abuts the tile, like this one-sided beveled threshold: (I've had luck filling against them with grout; complementary colored caulk is also available for tile-to-wood transitions. Standard thresholds can be ripped down, length-wise, to remove one bevel and then the bottom sanded down for a custom fit. Endeavor for absolutely perfect cuts along the doorway.)

Since you are transitioning to Carpet, I'd use something like this or this: (an abrupt leading edge is more of a concern then a reasonably high threshold)


What is the difference between a rivet setter and rivet header?

The setter seats the rivet into the workpiece. The header rounds the rivet shank over to lock the workpiece in place.

Whether an anvil is required probably depends on the particular project.


I read the article you linked to.  Looks like it would work if you have the right soil conditions, a lot of time, a lot of help and the patience of Jobe. One concern I would have is if you ran into large rocks or wet soils.  We have excavated several buildings over the years using the railroad ties and jacking method followed by a mini excavator. Here in the glacial soils of the northeast, we often run into large boulders that would be impossible to remove without heavy equipment.  The other caution would be to pour concrete or an other stable footings for the new post supports. This would be tricky if they are done one at a time as you excavate deeper under the building, especially if building has already settled and is not level at the start.  Some level reference would have to be maintained throughout the process. This is not as easy as it may sound, and would require some jacking, sistering of floor joists, or a new set of carrier beams etc. along the way. This vacuum method may be OK for small buildings, but could be troublesome or dangerous for larger buildings or for inexperienced builders.  Be careful.


There is no required NEC color coding for 3 phase pumps or motors with the exception of a high leg or wild leg be on B phase and marked orange, there are industry standards like Brown orange yellow for 480 but they can all be black. The only other requirement the phasing be front to back, top to bottom or right to left when talking about phase numbering in the NEC. I should add the ground is bare or insulated green.
To update for edit:  black red blue is the normal 3 phase color code For most companies but not all.
I do have a concern that you may be confusing 3 phase and 3 wire pumps 2 very different things. If you have an inverter you may have a 3 phase pump but if only standard voltage 240 3 wire is not the same.


Is it safe to have 3-switch light-vent-heater on 20 amp circuit with another light switch and a GFCI outlet?

I am sure someone else can cite code, but generally speaking if the hardwired loads on a circuit are > 50% of the capacity of the circuit then you can't have ordinary receptacles on the same circuit. With a 20A circuit, that means if you have 10A of fixed load (1300 W on a 20A 120V circuit qualifies, plus you have some other lights as well).
The reason for this rule is that if you used a hair dryer (bathroom example) or toaster (kitchen example) or similar item that draws 1500 W and the heater was on at the same time, you would trip the circuit breaker very quickly. Nobody likes nuisance trips - this rule helps avoid them.
Bottom line: A heating fixture pulling 1300 W should be on a circuit by itself (which includes the light and fan that go with it) and possibly with other lighting, but should not be on the same circuit as any general use receptacles.
As far as why the heater was disconnected previously, that could be:

Nuisance trips!
Malfunction - easier to disconnect than to replace.


When is a variable-speed compressor HVAC unit worth the cost?

The test procedure for determining the SEER is quite elaborate, and involves measuring the efficiency at a variety of simulated outdoor temperatures. I'm not sure what the basis for the sales rep's statement was, but without more information (i.e. specific numbers) I wouldn't put too much stock in it. The SEER is not just calculated at a single fixed situation.

As for whether it makes sense, that depends on your climate, the size of the area being cooled, the local price of electricity, etc. I would just use one of those calculators like you've linked to to determine the value, but make sure you get accurate numbers for all the inputs. The cost of electricity varies widely throughout the US, so get a current number for your area in the summer and then maybe round up a bit to account for the gradual rise in prices.


Is a 35mm steel square tube frame strong enough to support 100kg without flexing?

My structural tables don’t go “down” that low, but assuming A36 grade steel, (which is the most common in the U.S.), a 2 1/2” tube with a 1/4” wall thickness will support about 1,000 lbs. on a 10 foot span. Therefore, I’d assume two 35 mm tubes with 2 mm thick walls will “support” 100 kg without failing. However, I see several issues, 1) it will have significant deflection (flex, as you call it), 2) the legs are too small to keep the top from rotating, 3) 50 kg in the center of the top will depend more on the top than the frame, and 4) the joints act as “pin” connections without diagonal braces, so they’ll easily rotate.

BTW, are you sure the floor can support that much weight?


Dating insulation or studs for determining when prior work was completed

Not for the lumber may have a grade stamp on it that does have various information but there is no date. The insulation might have a manufacturing date on it, it is worth checking. However, to my knowledge it is not at all required.


As long as the shower head inside diameter is a standard size (which I imagine it is), you really should be able to find a washer with a built-in screen at your local hardware store (although I haven't tried myself so I could be wrong).

And still if you can't find one then you can just go with a standard washer without the screen.  (And maybe you could remove the screen from the broken washer and place it underneath the new standard washer that you just inserted.)

I think the screen in a shower head is not so much for aeration as to prevent contaminants from getting into the shower and interfering with the various spray patterns.


Can metal mesh furnace filters be replaced by paper filters?

If the filter you posted is a 1" wide filter then yes, you may be able to replace that filter with a strong paper filter . Make sure that the paper filter is not pulled into or too close to the metal of the electronic air cleaner cells when the blower fan is running.  If that filter that you show is less than 1" wide then no, you will have too keep the metal filter since a narrower filter will not have the strength to resist being flexed when the blower fan is running. If you have the desire to install a paper type filter upstream of an electronic air filter then you should call an HVAC company or a duct fabricator an have them install a filter rack in the duct work.
Wire mesh filters are among the least efficient filters on the market. If you are looking for a filter system that stops and collects the smallest dust and debris particles, are advertised to collect mold and bacteria, and works great for people with breathing problems like asthma, consider a correctly sized electronic air cleaner. I installed one in my home and one for my sister who suffered immensely from asthma and this gave her relief and provided her with a safe place to go when pollen counts were very high and her asthma was at it's worst. No other filter type could provide her with the same relief.


polystyrene insulation over dryloc basement walls

From a building science perspective, the polystyrene itself is a suitable vapor barrier, if you seal the seams and edges appropriately.


Much of the difficulty in stopping floor squeaks comes from the fact that people don't want to remove or damage their flooring to fix it.  There are special screws with heads that snap off and other gadgets to make it easy.

You have no flooring, so it makes it a lot easier.  Get some good, strong screws and go to town on the areas that squeak.  Screw the sub-floor solidly into the floor joists underneath until all movement and squeaking have stopped.  Also, walk around the area with heavy steps to try and see any additional movement that might not be squeaking yet.  Screw down anything that even feels like it might have moved.


Reinforced concrete drilling: wall plug won't fit

Measure the drill bit. Measure the wall plug. Adjust one or the other until they are the same size. If you drill a  6mm hole a 6mm plug will go into it, it's just physics! Make sure you blow out any dust in the hole and as mentioned above, make sure the hole is slightly deeper than your fastener length.


Pouring concrete countertops over lazy susan

You don't wish to retain the lazy susan/turntable?

Then it's fairly simple to turn that into storage space, some of which will be difficult to access (which is why people often accept the LS/T losses of potential space.)

If there's no side next to the stove, you'll need to make one. If there is, you just need to make some shelves, and screw supports for those shelves into the cabinet sides and the wall studs.

You can either paint the drywall or overlay it with plywood depending how much you care what the inside of the "cabinet" looks like.

As for supporting the concrete top, there's two stages to that - if you are pouring it in place, that's the tricky time and you need to provide adequate support (temporarily) to keep the heavy wet concrete from sagging on whatever you use as a bottom form, as well as enough reinforcing that it will support itself when cured. If you are pouring and curing it separately, then installing it, you only need to hold it up when cured, and that can be more cleats (robust ones) on the walls, and perhaps a diagonal brace across the corner.


Best way to install fixed bathroom shelves

I cannot imagine how any "glue" that would hold those. But then again, you may want to inquire your local big box or hardware store and ask. Gluing right directly to polished to polished ceramic / porcelain tiles doesn't seem feasible as a practice. I would imagine if that there WAS a way to glue these like this, the surface to surface would have to be unpolished and / or ROUGH ( with small peaks & valleys prepped) to get a good bond design for surface grip strength... The other route would be either porcelain / ceramic "L" brackets or of the stainless steel type.. In which case you're going to need a special drill bit to mount them...
Here's one type:

See below image / link
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dolle-FLAC-Stainless-Steel-Metal-Shelf-Bracket-for-1-4-in-5-16-in-H-Shelves-15750/204640318?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD59%7CMulti%7CNA%7CLIA%7CAll_Storage_LIA|71700000048022671|58700004795392476|92700041080510599&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjwkqPrBRA3EiwAKdtwk7j0A5TjHlsAAHyqs0uK06bJ6-HzDzd1PDt7Bi6BJtSYg_Ylrow0ZxoCTPAQAvD_BwE


Is it safe to use a water pump without a ground wire?

Alright.  Your first problem is the "cheap and unmarked" part -- two prong appliances can be safe, but only if they are "double insulated" or Class II.  Such an appliance will have a square-within-a-square symbol on its model number label, alongside any testing marks that may have been applied.

Since this pump of yours lacks any independent equipment testing, labeling, or listing, I wouldn't trust it to not shock you any further than I could kick it.  A dedicated residual current device/ground fault interrupter designed for personnel protection (i.e. 5mA trip threshold, nominal, with trip timing as per UL943 Class A or your country's equivalent standard) would be highly recommended in this application; even if the pump does try to zap you, the RCD/GFI would trip and cut off the current before a serious shock could take place.

Also, next time -- please don't get the cheapest pump you find at the bottom of the barrel!  Cheap, unlabeled crap is cheap, unlabeled crap because of the safety-compromising shortcuts that are taken during design and manufacture.


What is the principle behind "circuit total limitation" (CTL) for electrical panels?

It is to limit the total number of circuits, and so the total load on the bus etc.  It doesn't have anything to do with the neutrals.


How do you wire a 3 switch box in a bathroom?

1 white which is hot, and 2 greys which are hot...the switch is on 2 seperate breakers.

This means that:

  new switch it only has 1 common hook up, then 3 other connectors on the otherside.

The new switch will NOT work here.

You cannot feed from "2 separate breakers" to "1 common hookup" - you need a different switch that more closely matches the old switches (which look to be 3 separate switches, each with its own connections.)


Low water pressure after turning main water back on

Have you opened all the other water faucets in the home and flushed the toilets? There may be water in the line. The only other idea is that your water heater and water softener unit may be trying to fill up, causing low water pressure. Make sure there are no other water leaks.

I too am not a pro but can figure things out. I had to replace the on/off valve on my toilet not to long ago. I could not afford a new one at the moment. So I turned off the water main, and removed the valve. I soaked it in vinegar over night. (I did this at 10pm to 6 am.) I filled my bathtub with water and used a small bucket of water in the bathroom and filled with water and poured it in the toilet to flush. I then re-wrapped the threaded connection and reassembled the valve. It wasn't perfect but it lasted another couple days. Then I replace with a new one.

You may want to consider putting in an on/off valve under the toilet. I have had to install several in my home as none of the showers had any.


Isherwood's right & make sure you're actually getting the blowing air from the bath fan on the outside of the house. Also, after showers or baths get into the practice of letting the fan run for another 15 or 30-minutes.

You just want to fill, actually fill, that crack below the tile is all. Squirt caulk INTO the gap & then force more caulk into the crack with your finger or a putty knife & repeat until it's full. Your closed palm should be facing the wall & not down toward the tub.

There's no need nor benefit in trying to make a ramp for the water. Water sitting on the caulk rather than beside it is mold's friend. Your caulk should look largely like your grout lines, it should be thin, tight & flush with the tile face.


You can ask anything you want from the seller.  Replace the roof, add a garage, repaint, remove shrubbery, fix a sewer line, replace the fireplace, etc.

Typically the seller will either reject any involvement in such projects (considering them excessive or unnecessary for adequate living conditions), or agree to a lower price to offset your cost of doing it yourself (or by a contractor).

Around here (Oregon), wall hanging holes are considered part of the normal wear and tear of a home.  Usually, it isn't much work to spackle the holes, sand, and repaint to get a passably virgin-looking surface.

If there is a serious degradation of the wall surface—beyond normal wear (for example 10 years of missing a dartboard)— you could ask for sheetrock replacement but that would only seem sensible if the wall has widespread major damage evident by its very structure being weakened.


Is it wrong to connect multiple J-bends (traps) together?

Much too much up and down! You want a P trap with an additional angled connector toward the wall.

The first down and up from the sink drain is correct. That is the P trap. It should end with a horizontal leg pointing toward the wall (an L shaped piece).

This will not line up with the opening in the wall because the drain is offset.  Therefor that leg will run a distance and then will use an angle to bend it back toward the wall.

You could use a right angled slip joint connector (running horizontally).

A 45 degree angle would be better (the less sharp the bend, the less likely to stop up).  However it may be hard to fine a 45 degree slip joint elbow. You could use standard pipes and elbows, but these would require glued joints rather than slip joints.

Finally there should be a straight run from the angled connector to the wall connection.

You can rotate the P part of the trap so the L leg coming off the P is parallel to the wall (assuming you are using the 90 degree elbow; if not, adjust accordingly).  Then the elbow turns the drain toward the wall.  Another horizontal run carries the drain back to the wall.

You need to measure the length of the horizontal leg of the P and the length of the connecting run to the wall; be sure to allow for the sections embedded in the elbow and trim each accordingly. Assemble.

It is easier done than described.


maximum ceiling joist to beam span without joist hangers

There are two considerations, 1) vertical loads (including uplift), and 2) lateral loads.

1) 2x4’s at 24” o.c. are plenty strong enough to support a roof load of say 30 lbs. per square foot LIVE LOAD (snow load) plus a DEAD LOAD (framing, insulation, etc.) of 10-12 lbs psf for an 18.5” span. However, the connections at each end will be in the 140lbs. Range. So, 2-16d are required (each 16d will support about 80 lbs. each for toe-nailing,) but make sure you don’t split the joists.

If the 2x4’s extend over an exterior top plate, you’ll need to fasten them down by toe-nailing them to be he top plate, (if you don’t want to use clips).

2) Lateral loading (earthquake and high wind resistance) is different. Here you want adequate transfer from roof sheathing to supports. Unless you live on an extreme earthquake zone or high wind area, 2x4 roof supports at 24” o.c. Will be fine.


What is this cable popping out of my lawn?

It appears to be COAX cable and it's almost certainly your (or your neighbors) CATV (i.e. Cable TV) line.  These are often placed near trees and they get pushed up as the tree grows.  That one is very exposed.  I'd put in a service call to my provider and request it be buried properly.


Allowing for the inherent mechanical weaknesses of a ratchet wrench and the limited lever arm provided by such a short handle, consider to purchase or borrow a 15 mm box end wrench. The handle may not be much longer than the ratchet wrench, but will more safely accept a lever extension.

A strong steel pipe of a meter length or better, with an inside diameter to accept the box end wrench will give you an incredible lever arm.

If you are confident that you are turning the bolt in the correct direction and that it is designed to be removed in this manner, you are likely to free it up easily. If not, it's also possible to snap the head right off, or worse, break something internally.

Your local mower shop may also accept the mower and have the necessary tools to pull the blade. You may have to pay a bit more for the first time, but it's also likely it won't be as difficult to remove the next time.


How do I use plumber's tape on a pool float?

You can clean it with a wire brush.
The number of wraps depends on the thickness of the teflon tape but
should be between 3 and 6.  Apply it tightly in the direction of the threads so that when you tighten it, the tape is not pushed in the opposite direction.
As for aligning when screwing it in, it will depend on how much tape
you have on it and what type of threads these are. I would go finger
tight and then one complete turn and then continue until aligned. Take
is easy as you don't want to break anything.


Parallelling existing UF wire to use as feeder

You're rationalizing.  You want to do it, and you are trivializing the many reasons why this is a bad idea, and trying to boil it down to one reason: that it's not allowed for wires smaller than 1/0. And then your logic is "well that's a silly rule, so I can just ignore it".

One of the wires breaks

The first problem is that if one of your wires (hot or neutral) has a simple wire break, now, ALL the current is flowing on the surviving wire.  That is why you do not just split wires like that.

"Oh, well, I'll just use two 30A breakers then, so every hot has a 30A breaker".  What about neutral? Neutrals don't have breakers.

Special equipment

Go read the paralleling rules.  There are a bunch of requirements, but one of them is that paralleling must use custom equipment specifically designed for paralleling.   I have such equipment in my shop.  I have six 1000 kcmil conductors going up to a busbar, 2 wires per bar.  The origin equipment is a disconnect switch with six 400A fuses. ONE PER WIRE.  See how that nicely solves the "broken wire" problem?

So you too would need "special equipment" at the origin of your paralleling rig, and that equipment would need to give neutral a breaker.  If I were out to violate code and wing-ding that, I'd use a 3-phase service panel, treating neutral as a phase, and fill it with 6 x 30A breakers. But I'd still respect the rest of the paralleling rules.

You'll be at least $120 into that.  Why did you say you wanted to do this? To save money?


You can try wrapping the male threads with Teflon tape, and then putting thread sealant on top of the Teflon tape and also a little on the female threads.

It's not the correct way to do it, but it's the only way that I was able to seal the NPT threads on my sister's water softener.


What are the best options to repair this kind of damage in my bathtub?

In my personal experience, you can paint it any way you like and it will peel off again, sooner or later. The tub is not well made in the first place if it's separating like that, and this may be aggravated by being installed without proper support, so it flexes. But at more than 10 years old you're not going to get satisfaction from the manufacturer, if they even admit who they are.

That pretty much leaves the tub overlay (an expensive in the cash sense, yet cheap in the quality sense, even thinner plastic liner) and the unpleasant but effective (and generally cheaper if you DIY than the overlay) replacing the tub, with all the joy that implies for the surrounding tilework. If you go that way, at least pour a plaster support bed under any fiberglass/plastic tub, or give some serious thought to a cast iron tub - no fun to move but hard to damage once installed.


When I flush my upstairs toilet, the downstairs toilet floods and then slowly drains. What's happening?

Tyson's response in comment is spot on. Without knowing your house layout, you can follow the drain from the downstairs toilet to where it meets the pipe for the drain from the upstairs toilet.

Once you identify the drains intersection, look for another drain from any sink anywhere in the home that is PAST the intersection of the two toilets pipes AND closer to the main sewer drain.

If there is a sink, run water in it full, drain it, time it. Do it again, but this time flush the toilet. See if the water drains slow. This is just a simple test if do-able to "guess" whether there is a plug/buildup in the pipe where the toilets meet. Problem areas often will be at bends, turns, or where pipes are joined together. If there is buildup on the outside of the pipe, it could be a sign of buildup inside too.

There is even a possibility your issue is tree roots or broken sewer out to the main - it can be a pricey job and will only get worse.

If you can snake it, and are alright with opening the clean outs, go for it. Otherwise call a plumber. And be aware - if you were to snake haphazardly, you can do more damage than may already exist, especially if the pipes are old/brittle.


How to install thermostat with plug in heater?

The controlled AC outlet you linked to in the comment above seems like overkill unless you were intending to run all of them from one thermostat.  I'd actually recommend putting all of them on individual thermostats so you can keep them in 3 different heating zones.  Not only would this be much cheaper (the relays don't even include the thermostat), but it would be a "plug and play" solution without having to wire all of the signal wires back to the relay.  I'd take a look at something like these.


How to arrest Cat6 cables from falling inside the wall?

Purchase ring-ended cable ties.
Put a short drywall screw (or other wood screw, assuming wooden studs) through the ring.
Reach in the hole and screw it to the stud that's closest.
Grab the cables and thread the cable tie around them (this can be a high-skill activity one handed in a hole in the wall.)
Pull cables up to have reasonable slack and cinch the cable tie to hold them in place.


What could cause poor drainage in the kitchen and baths?

You may want to check to see if the sewer line vent pipe(s) that go up through your roof are plugged up. A plugged vent line cap prevent proper sewage water flow in the drain lines.

The foul smell in and around the bedroom area could also be caused by a plugged vent pipe that is keeping sewer gasses from dispersing in the proper way.


Can I build a vanity, or am I in over my head?

It sounds like you have a very sensible and thorough approach to the project. Just a few suggestions:

Saw Blade

Most blades that come with table and miter saws are fairly low end. If you are cutting plywood for finish carpentry, you want a high tooth count blade for smooth cuts. Check out one of the blade manufacturers for the range and you will find some recommended for this type of work. The cost is worth it and it will last through many more projects.

Angle cuts

This is where your cut-twice idea is a good idea. You are just trying to replicate a given angle. Measure the angles either with a protractor, or, if the piece being matched is an angle cut across a short dimension (rather than a long bevel) lay it up against the angled saw blade to check.

Use scrap wood to make a try cut angle based on your best estimate. If it is off, adjust the blade or angle guide slightly and try again. When you have the exact angle, cut the good wood.

If you need to make an angle cut on a wide board on the table saw, consider an adjustable taper guide that runs along the fence.

Materials

It wasn't clear to me whether you were going to make the face frames out of pine or just make mock ups and then use oak. For the actual frames, use oak. It is both more rigid and much less prone to seasonal change. All woods shrink and swell somewhat, even when well sealed, but softwoods much more so. You could find shifting of doors and binding drawers if you use a wood that changes much.

Cutting on/next to marking lines

It doesn't matter. What does matter is consistency. You need to know where your mark is in relation to the exact measurement, and cut accordingly. And do the same thing every time.

For example, if you measure a board using a rigid rule, and you mark with a pencil, you can have the far edge of the pencil line at the exact distance. The thickness of the line is within the length you want. Then make a line across the board using a square at the exact spot.  Many woodworkers use a scribing tool instead of a pencil to get a finer marking. In this case, you would cut leaving the line behind, since it was within the length you wanted.

Also realize that when your finished cabinet meets other surfaces, such as the wall, it will almost never be an exact fit, due to slight irregularities in angle and levelness of the wall.  This is where trim strips come in. While there is a technique for scribing an exact contour to fit a cabinet to a wall, that is a bit more challenging. Unless you are going to do that type of trimming, leaving a cabinet a hair shallow or short is much better than too deep or too high. Shims and trim work wonders.


Adding a ground to a GFCI ungrounded outlet box

GFCI with no ground is OK, though it should be labelled as such. The GFCI provides better safety than the ground would have.

In fact, installing a GFCI is a common fix when better safety is needed but no ground is available; I have three installed for exactly that purpose.


Using a multimeter to check for problems in electric sockets

To check grounding and polarity a simple outlet tester like this would be a better tool for the DIY home owner. This type of tester will show if the outlets are grounded and can test GFCI breakers by pushing the button. With home wiring checking the resistance is not a very good test because there may be a low resistance with an unloaded circuit but under load the resistance can increase (ohm meters do not work on live circuits). you can also check the voltage on a circuit but if unloaded the same problem can arise with a circuit with no load you may see 120 volts but then a load the voltage can drop significantly. Making sure not to over load outlets (not adding power strips) and running circuits below 80% of there rated capacity is all that is needed in most homes.


transition between hardwood plank and molding on stairs

Maybe a stained or painted quarter round or some sort of small fancy, decorative moulding.


If you don't want to convert over a copper union to Pex (which would probably require a little pipe sweating), the Pex unions available are pretty cheesy pieces of junk.

Luckily for you, Pex will twist on it's own fitting. I wouldn't suggest doing it very often, but the once or twice you may have to remove that fitting from the check valve for "inspection", you'll be fine.


What size replacement fuse is required for this hot tub?

A quick google search lead me to this datasheet: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/product-datasheets-a/Bus_Ele_DS_2017_GMA_GMA-V_Series.pdf

There is one part (GMA-3.15-R) that matches your description and the current rating is indeed 3.15A.

If you're wondering why the current rating is such a weird number, it's because it is a preferred number (Renard series):

  R10: 1.00  1.25  1.60  2.00  2.50  3.15  4.00  5.00  6.30  8.00


Vertical direction of PVC tee used for vent only

If you are using a sanitary tee to go from a horizontal vent pipe into a vertical vent the correct orientation is "upside down" from its normal usage.  The curve of the tee should go from the horizontal direction curving up toward the roof.  Air flows into the vent from outside to replace air pushed downstream by the falling waste, so the vent is oriented to allow smooth airflow from the roof side into the horizontal vent.


I have gone through this too.  If it sinking black particles then that is charcoal/carbon.  That is from your filter.  You can drink/digest it just fine but if that makes you squirmy then take the filter back.  Honestly there seems to be something a little off about your filter but at the same time the particles aren't necessarily harmful.


Just that a long vertical can result in more cold air injection--the weight of a column creates more downforce. The same is true in reverse for hot-attic days. Also, as you can plainly see, dryers emit lint. You might consider a soffit vent to keep the lint off your roof.
Nope. Pack it snug to the vent pipe.
Nope. Fire is not a concern here.


Running 20 AMP switches to shed that is 100ft away from main panel

One circuit too far for your idea
You are only allowed to effectively run two circuits (one multiwire branch circuit, really) to an outbuilding, given single phase power, or else you'll fall afoul of NEC 225.30 (quote snipped as the rest of it doesn't apply to you):

225.30 Number of Supplies. A building or other structure
that is served by a branch circuit or feeder on the load side of a
service disconnecting means shall be supplied by only one
feeder or branch circuit unless permitted in 225.30(A)
through (E). For the purpose of this section, a multiwire
branch circuit shall be considered a single circuit.

There is a silver lining though
The silver lining to your thinking though is that 1" PVC conduit is useful for more than just branch circuits; instead, you can run a feeder in it to provide power to a subpanel at your shed, allowing you to have more power and more branch circuits than your proposal would provide.
In particular, if your inspector permits Schedule 40 PVC for stubups, you can pull 3 2AWG Al XHHW-2 wires and a bare 8AWG stranded copper ground through that 1" Schedule 40 PVC (it uses just over 205mm² of the 214mm² of usable fill your 1" conduit provides), providing a 90A(!) feeder to your subpanel for less money than all that 10AWG copper would have cost you!  Even if they require Schedule 80 where the conduit emerges from the ground, you still can run 3 6AWG THHN wires and a bare 10AWG ground in your conduit, giving you a healthy 60A feeder.
With that feeder squared away, we can then fit a 100 or 125A, 24 or 30 space, main breaker panel at the shed to provide the local disconnecting means, with matching 20A breakers and 12/2 NM for the branch-circuit wiring.  You'll need GFCI protection for the receptacles, by the way, although it's best to keep the lights off GFCI, and put them on a separate circuit for that matter, even, so tripping a breaker or GFCI with a tool doesn't plunge you into the dark.
Don't forget to buy and install the appropriate grounding bar for your panel if it doesn't come with one fitted! You also need to ensure that the green bonding screw or strap is removed from it so that it can be safely used as a subpanel with a 4-wire feeder as per the NEC; once that's squared away, you can run more of that 8AWG bare copper from the subpanel's grounding bar to a pair of 8' ground rods driven 6-8' apart, so that your shed has a grounding electrode system that can return wayward natural electricity directly to Mother Nature.
With that and an appropriate 80 or 90A breaker for your existing main panel, you can enjoy all your shop tools and more without having to worry about Code issues or running out of power.


Is it possible to splice on to one of the hots of a base board heater for a plug?

You cannot and must not take a phase from one cable/circuit and a neutral from another.

Amongst other issues, this:

Poses a threat to any maintenance worker who disconnects the neutral or earth of the original circuit, assuming that because they have isolated the hot, the neutral is not carrying current.
Can overload the neutral, which does not directly have overcurrent protection.
Can cause issues and heating in surrounding steel as the magnetic fields do not cancel.
Will cause immediate tripping if either circuit is converted to GFCI in future.
Violates the NEC/CEC/any other sensible rules.


How to replace cartridge for this tub valve?

The valve cartridge is threaded into the valve body. The valve body stops at the top of those visible threads in your photo. That is also where the valve cartridge begins.

Get a wrench on the flats of the valve cartridge and turn CCW. Don't use an adjustable wrench if you can help it. Use a fixed box wrench if you have the right size. Brass is soft!

I would really try and remove the valve body from the jacuzzi first to eliminate any risk of damaging the jacuzzi. By leaving it in place and turning CCW on the valve cartridge you'll be tightening the valve body against the tub and things could break... There has to be a way to get it out - how was it installed? If you can get it out hold the valve body with a pipe wrench and unthread the valve cartridge from it as described.


garage light with two hots and one neutral

It's not a live wire at all.  It's a neutral.  This part of the circuit doesn't just serve the light.  It also carries power (hot and neutral) onward to other loads.

The always-hot is carried from wherever (switch, perhaps?) on the black wires tucked in the back there.

The switched-hot is carried on the red wire, obviously you want the lamp to take its hot from the switch, so it isn't on 24x7.

The neutral wires brought

Neutral from supply
Neutral onward to other points of use
Neutral to the lamp

You only connected neutral from supply to the lamp, so neutral was severed to the  onward points.

Electrical current flows in loops.  Power is going out the hot wire to those onward points of use, but then is unable to return via the neutral you severed.

You see "hot" because electrons are queued up there waiting to return via neutral. This is normal when a neutral is disconnected; it's one reason neutrals need to be treated as hot wires from a safety POV.


Need advice on connecting 100 amp sub-panel to 200 amp main panel

Does the sub-panel seem over loaded? If so, I could keep the water-heater in the main panel and free up space in the panel another way.

Seems reasonable to me. Most of the equipment won't draw anywhere near the overcurrent rating, at least not during normal operation. Motor loads will draw a higher current on start, but you shouldn't have a problem.

  I know I need four-strand wire to run to the sub-panel (2 hot, neutral, ground) but copper or aluminum and what gauge?

You can use either copper or aluminum, though I recommend copper for DIYers. Copper is quite a bit more expensive, but it's easier to work with (in my opinion). If you feel confident working with aluminum conductors, you can save some money using it.

I've covered the topic of feeder sizing here, so I won't go into detail. If you're using copper, you'll want to use 3 AWG conductors. If you choose to use aluminum, you'll need 1 AWG conductors.

If you want to run a single cable, instead of individual conductors in conduit. You can buy what's called 3-3-3-5 SER cable (1-1-1-3 for aluminum), which will contain three 3 AWG conductors (hot,hot,neutral) and a 5 AWG grounding conductor.

  When I run the wire along the floor joist, does it need to be secured to the joist or can it just hang there and rest on the drop ceiling? Seems like it should be secured to the joist with wire hanger or something.

You'll have to attach the cable to the joists, using 1 - 1 1/4" staples or other approved means. Check the packaging, to make sure they are rated for the size cable you're using.

  What are the things about this project that I don't know that I don't know. :) These are the scary things IMO...i.e. the questions I don't know enough to ask.

The cable you'll be working with is thick and heavy, and it's not going to be fun pulling it. You'll probably want a couple helpers, to help you wrangle it.

Make sure all your connections are tightened to the manufacturer's specified torque.

If you choose aluminum conductors, make doubly sure you tighten the connections. And don't forget the anti-oxidant.

Come back a day or two after the panel has been put into service, and tighten any connections that need it.

Don't forget to remove the bonding jumper between the grounded and grounding bus bars.

You'll need clamps big enough for the cable, to secure it to the panels.

  should I put a 100 amp breaker in the sub-panel to act as the "main" for the sub-panel? Or is the 100 amp breaker in the main panel sufficient?

You can usually pick up a main breaker panel, for about the same price as a main lug only (MLO) panel. In my opinion, unless the secondary panel is next to; or within sight of, the main panel. You're better served to install a main breaker panel.  It simply offers better protection during maintenance, or other work within the panel.

For example. If you turn off the feeder breaker in the main panel, and start working in the secondary panel. Somebody could easily come along, and flip on the feeder breaker. Since you can't keep an eye on the breaker, you can never be sure the panel will be dead. (unless of course you're using a lockout like you should).

If the secondary panel is in a separate building or structure, then you either need a main breaker, a main disconnect, or the ability to disconnect all ungrounded conductors within 6 or less hand moves.


how much bearing surface is required to support a beam

The answer for bearing length is a little more complicated than most people would assume it would be. I'm going to assume it is supporting uniform loads and no point loads.

1.5" of bearing length is all you need for this douglas-fir beam, but that's not the limiting factor here. Beam bearing lengths don't take into account the supporting member's ability to carry the loads. So as long as your wall is less than 10' tall, give the beam 3" of bearing with a 2 ply 2x4 built-up column under it. Nail the two plies together following NDS standards. If your supporting member was a steel beam, then that's when 1.5" bearing length would be enough.

It seems counter intuitive, but with dimensional lumber the longer the span the less bearing length you typically need because the end reactions are lower.

For example, your 16' long 4x12 can support a max uniform load of 150 PLF which means you have 1200 lbs at each end. If the same beam was only 5' long, it could support a max uniform load of 1900 PLF which means you have 4750 lbs at each end.

I don't know the answer to your end gap question. I have a feeling that 1/4" is fine on either end, but I don't know for sure.


Stabilize metal legs attached to wood table top

Sometimes, attaching the X-frame legs so that the back plates are closer together than the front plates will allow the front legs to act as stabilizers vs sideward movement.  This solution assumes that the plates are not rocking; that the screws threads are gripping tightly and the screw heads don't permit any rocking of the plate, either (ie. use of washers keep plate firmly against underside of table).


Can I install a GFCI outlet next to my fuse panel, and run the circuit i need from it?

There's nothing inherently wrong with this plan

The NEC just says that GFCI protection is required for such-and-such circuits.  It doesn't specify whether a receptacle, breaker, or deadfront device is used for that job; in your case, since you are dealing with a fused panelboard (aka fuse box), you can't use GFCI breakers, so you need to use a receptacle or deadfront device instead, wired as a feed-through.  Deadfront GFCIs may be preferable to receptacles in this application (to avoid a profusion of receptacles of confusing provenance near your fusebox).

But, it doesn't scale as well to that other interrupter device

However, the situation changes slightly when you start considering AFCI protection.  Receptacle-type AFCIs are available; however, they fall into a different class of devices than their breaker-type brethren.  In particular, receptacle-type AFCIs are universally Outlet Branch Circuit (OBC) AFCIs.  These are limited in their protection capabilities compared to breaker-type Branch/Feeder or Combination AFCIs; however, Code allows them to be used as the sole arc-fault protection means in retrofit situations, or if the "home run" to the first outlet is in a metal-clad wiring means (such as metal conduit or armored cable).

Also, receptacle-type devices are available that combine a GFCI with an Outlet Branch Circuit AFCI.  These may be worth considering in your retrofit situation, as AFCI protection is required on most dwelling unit circuits under current NEC rules.


there is only one wire going to a light fixture

I think you answered your own question if there is only one wire to the fixture then the metal box must be completing the circuit through a ground wire attached to the box possibly fastened under the internal clamp. Highly illegal according to any version of the code in modern times.

It is impossible to have a circuit without a completed path. Either through a second conductor or some conductive material such as the earth.


You definitely want to turn off the water supply at the demarcation point where your responsibility begins during times that you do not need the water service.

Last thing that you would want to be surprised at would be to receive a water bill notice for $940 when you have been away for three months. I had that experience once when I knowingly had a cabin side shutoff gate valve that would not shut off completely due to sediment deposits in the pipe/valve. I had taken to turning off the water supply at the street by the water meter when we left this mountain property for a long period of time.

Also it was always advised to leave certain valves open at the back of the cabin during cold weather to drain the water lines to prevent freezing of the water lines under the cabin. Well it turned out that an industrious water meter reader turned the valve back on at the street when they found it off. Needless to say this caused a huge amount of water to flow until a couple months later when I received a gigantic water bill in the mail.

In the end I had to take to installing a padlock on the main shut off valve to prevent a repeat of the problem until I was able to flush the water lines to get rid of the sediment in the gate valve by the cabin.


I'm guessing the pine is being installed on the interior of the garage? Although it can (and commonly is) used as an exterior wall. Either location Board and Battan walls are rustic and natural.
If used as interior walls they can be left unsealed. Rough Pine will eventually become less bright with age. This can be prevented by applying a sealer to protect the wood. A urethane will work, but if used on rough lumber it may not look aesthetically appealing with any sheen, but matte or flat (this is a personal call).
A water based floor sealer will be he easiest to work with. There are also deck sealers that can be applied (Flod brand gives good results as does Thompson). All will dry clear to leave wood grain viewable, but protected.
It will be easiest to apply whatever you ultimately choose before installing the B+B pine. Several coats all sides is ideal.
The same principals should be used if boards will go on exterior wall. Only you must install a moisture barrier (30 # felt paper or Tyvek) under the boars first.


Poured door transition - Safe to dig around?

If, as it appears from your pictures, this is a solid block poured in place of the blocks that are not there in the door opening, on top of the poured foundation wall, 6-8" overhang that thick is not a particular concern for digging away underneath - it's not going to fall off if you're not taking a sledgehammer to it, even if it is unreinforced.

If it stuck out more, or if it was thinner, there might be a cause for concern. Here, no worries. Or, if I'm seeing things wrong and it's really just scabbed onto the face of blocks (can you see the backside of this in the crawlspace?) but in that case I'd expect it to fall off anyway, so it seems unlikely.

Compact the drainage rock well when filling this area would be the only special attention I'd pay to that.


What is the danger of a bootleg ground on a 110 outlet wired from a 3 wire 240 circuit?

Neutral is not ground.  Neutral is the desired current return, ground is a safety device only.

Let's look at some fault conditions, and we'll lead up to the problem with the bootleg ground.  First, consider a broken neutral wire (near the service panel) with no loads on the circuit whatsoever.

Nothing is connected to the neutral; it's floating.  That's not the same as being at zero.  Nothing pulls it down to zero (neutral) but nothing pulls it up to hot either.

But what if something did?

This is concerning.  You see the broken neutral is being pulled up to 120V.  Not toward 120V - all the way, because absolutely nothing pulls it down to real neutral.  This is deadly if you have a NEMA 10 dryer or stove circuit, where they intentionally attach chassis to neutral as a substitute for ground.  But other than that, this situation is not that hazardous if everything is perfect and to code, and probably wouldn't even trip a breaker.  And since neutrals stay with their mated hots, this problem is contained to a single circuit.

Now to your hypothetical: a bootleg ground.  Same, but substitute ground for neutral.

Holy smokes!  We've now lit up every ground downstream of the break.  Unlike neutrals, grounds may be cross-connected, so it can affect every circuit.  Every screw in every outlet cover, any metal conduit, any appliance which properly grounds its chassis (particularly NEMA 14 connected dryers and stoves), the exterior of your metal power strips, maybe even the chassis of your PC.

In fact a single point of failure - the ground-neutral bond in your main panel - combined with a bootleg ground, will create the worst case scenario: energizing every ground in your house including the service panel itself.

Other than that, I see ground breaks all the time - especially in EMT conduit, where those flimsy zinc couplers can snap off.

Here's why the grounding rod won't help.  Dirt is a lousy conductor, except when it's not.  Grounding is done to force the house's ground system (and neutral) to be near earth, to reduce shock hazard.  It's not meant as a current return, and it works so badly as one, that using it that way creates the hazard!

Power wants to get back to neutral, not ground.  The only place ground can reach neutral is back at the transformer pole, and that current path goes through unreliable dirt. Code says a single ground rod must be 25 ohms (but if you have two, you don't even have to test!  This is because of the practical difficulty of getting good earth connections in some places.)  Run the math:  E=IR, 120V=4.8A*25Ω.  In other words a dead short would flow 4.8 amps.  That's not going to trip a breaker, and can't be counted on to reduce shock hazard from that bootleg ground.  The bootleg load could be considerably less than 25 ohms, so it's going to pull ground up toward 120V better than earth may pull it down.

I know it's a busy drawing, click to zoom. Here's what else is going on there: High voltage 3-phase delta (yellow orange brown) feeds a single-phase neighborhood transformer, whose secondary is 240 volts center-tap. The center tap is Neutral, and it's bonded to a grounding rod at the transformer. Those 3 wires, hot-neutral-hot, are bundled together and carried to each house via its meter.  Each house has a grounding rod bonded to ground, which is also bonded to neutral in the main panel.


Grounding with conduit and cast aluminum weatherproof box

You'll need to make sure your EMT fittings are rated for being threaded into a hub

The thing with weatherproof cast boxes (Bell boxes) is that they have cast-in threaded hubs in them instead of ordinary knockouts, so that water can be kept out reliably.  However, UL historically did not test EMT fittings for use with threaded hubs, only locknuts, and as a result, many of them have a straight thread that won't mate properly with the tapered thread of the hub in all cases.

Fortunately, there are (weatherproof, even) EMT connectors that are rated for threading into hubs; the Bridgeport 290-RTNPT is an example in ½", and it appears your connector was also tested for hub applications based on what the manufacturer is saying.  Note that the Bridgeport version is somewhat longer than a typical compression EMT connector due to having a short pipe nipple, essentially, as part of the fitting, as shown below (photo for illustration only):

Once that's done, you're good to go

Once the EMT has been made up using the correct fittings, though, you'll be good to go when it comes to using it as a grounding path.  Note that I'd probably be using weatherproof push-on couplings (SIMPush™, Mighty-Bite™) or equivalent for joining EMT pieces together; these are the least dependent on workmanship, and couplings are a common source of issues when using EMT as a grounding path.


Is there a standard height for wall mounting flatscreen TVs?

Eye level

The center of the TV should optimally be lined up to your eyes. This will change based on the purpose of the TV. In the kitchen, our TV is about 6 feet off the floor over the counter top because we do a lot of cooking / baking; so we're standing when watching TV.

In the family room, take this measurement when you're sitting on the couch.

Same thing with speakers: place surround sound speakers at roughly the height of when you're sitting down from the floor to your shoulders (for a 6' individual, that's about about 26").


That sounds like a 3 way switch but I don’t think I have seen one labeled that way.  Other than the copper you only had 2 wires I think , I would connect 1 to L1 and the other to L  , I believe l is the common  for a 3 way and L1& L2 are for the travelers , but for a single switch we just don’t use L2 . The switch won’t have on and off embossed on it if this is the case.
A photo would clear things up or the model # of the switch but I believe using L & L1 will get it working.


advice on grounding lamp and ballast required

Normally the cord attaches to the fixture or to a multiwire splice that connects to the housing and to the ballast if the ballast has a grounding wire or terminal. If the ballast doesn't have a ground wire or terminal the ballast is just grounded to the fixture housing by it's mounting screws.

The ground wire on the cord usually attaches to a designated (green) screw on the fixture frame. If the ballast has no direct ground connection then you can use a blue (for #14 and #16 wire) stake-on fork on the stranded wire from the cord and attach it directly under the ground screw or you can wrap a short piece of solid green or bare #14 wire around the screw and attach it to the cord by a wire connector.

If the ballast has a ground terminal or wire that connection is not adequate to ground the whole fixture by that ground connection. Normally you would connect a short piece of bare or green #12 or #14 wire to the fixture ground screw, then use a wire connector it to the ground wire on the cord and the wire grounding to the ballast.


Removing counter sunk metal security Torx head screws

You are looking for Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) and some versions should be able to work at the size you need.


Strange suction in toilet and sink, like a vacuum in the sewer pulling the water out

Even if someone was "working on the sewer lines with a vacuum" properly sized and functional vents would keep the traps from siphoning.
So, you have vents which are not functioning as they should, whether from being built improperly in the "new addition" (since the problem is limited to there) or from some sort of blockage (animal nest in the vent pipe or the like.)
You, or, if that's not your thing, someone you hire should get up on the roof and check the vent pipe there, perhaps with a snake in hand to try cleaning it. Dumping a bucket of water down, or running water from a hose down can also sometimes be helpful in identifying a blockage (and can sometimes help to clear it.)
After that you (or someone you hire if it's not your thing) would get to checking and using all the cleanouts down inside the house, if the problem persists. For a typical venting setup with a single toilet, the fact that the toilet is affected points to the main vent (for this section of the house) being blocked, not just some tributary branch vent.


Can the floor framing in my 1930s bathroom support my tub and shower?

If I assume you have 2x12 joists, then it's all good. If you want it better you can add full depth joist blocking perpendicular to the joists to try and help the floor out a little, but you don't have to.

If I assume you have 2x10 joists, then it's all good except for that joist under the shower/tub. It probably wouldn't catastrophically fail, but add a second joist next to it if possible. It'll also help prevent your new tile job from cracking by decreasing the live load deflection you'll get when filling the tub. If you absolutely can't add another joist there, you can add full depth joist blocking perpendicular to the joists to try and help the floor out a little.

If I assume you have 2x8 joists, that's bad. I hope you don't have 2x8 joists!


Attaching a heavy item to a 'powdery' external wall

Here's what I did (probably a little over-engineered but it worked well)

Filled current holes and the surrounding mess
Got 135mm long, 7mm screws with wall plugs, and drilled 10mm holes for them
Located the holes 50mm above the current holes, 50mm being approximately half a course of bricks

Whilst drilling I think the problem might have been that I'd gone between two brick courses, but this was probably compounded by the fact the plaster was thicker than I thought (it might have been 60-70mm before it hit the brick by the noise of the drill), so the ridiculously long far too heavy duty screws probably did the trick.

Each of the screws is apparently rated to hold 90kg, though I doubt either the wall or the coat-hook thing itself would be anywhere near that.


Why is there insulation in the common wall between housing units?

The first 3 comments are all correct answers.
Comment #1 by ThreePhaseEel regarding a code required fire wall is correct, but it’s for fire rated draftstops between living units.
Comment #2 by Isherwood regarding sound control is also correct. The code requires a minimum STC rating between units and insulation can fill the voids and help with that requirement.
Comment #3 by whatsisname regarding a thermal barrier is also a code requirement. The requirement is for the envelope around a unit...there is no exception for common party walls.
Do not remove the insulation just to extend some cables from your attic to the other floors.


What is the purpose of a "framed" switch?

I think it means the case of the switch is molded around the bezel of the switch. Levitron seems to use this language to describe its "commercial-quality" switches.


How to attach plastic (vapor barrier) to the studs?

Just doing some repairs on my (Canadian) house and it uses black foam glue (the tube said "acoustic foam") around the edges and nails with an L shaped right angle head along the studs


Can you do a dual flush conversion on a pull chain toilet?

We just had a "dual" flush device fitted to our toilet that works based on how long you hold the lever down. For a short flush just pull and let go, for a "full" flush pull and hold.

It was one of these which seem to be designed for UK toilets so I don't know whether you'd be able to get one in the States.


Hot water comes out once toilet is flushed

Alex here (some reason I'm locked out of the original account). It happen to be the 1 of my shower's valves. I noticed that the hot and cold water inlets were connected to the valve's sides labeled "shower" and "tub". I had to detach and weld the valve back to where the "shower" points up and "tub" points down. I also replaced the plastic cartridge where the shower handle would be placed just in case. With that, I now get hot water 24/7 without having to flush a toilet beforehand. Thank you all for the help!


You can definitely put tiles right on the concrete wall. However, if you're building a shower, it's critically important that you have a waterproof membrane separating the finish materials (tile) from the structure (concrete walls and cement backboard on any framed walls you build). I suggest painting the walls with Redgard, a sort of paintable rubber. You paint the floor, too. Then you tile over that.


Why are some of my circuits not working?

It looks like you lost one of the hot legs to your service. It could be a bad connection on your main breaker, a bad connection in the meter base (had this exact same thing happen at my church's parsonage...an old house with very old electrical), or a bad connection at the transformer, or the overhead (assuming you have an overhead feed) connections to the triplex from the transformer to the wires at the weather head.
Loose connections can be very confounding...when they heat up, they lose connection or provide a very poor connection. Then they cool down and make a somewhat better connection...for a while!
You should get the power company involved to at least see if there are no issues with the supply.   If not, then proceed to trace down the problem using a multi meter, starting with the main breaker.   Be careful!  You'll be dealing with REAL POWER there. PPE and rubber gloves that are certified for electrical work would make you pretty safe, but still....PPE is needed, esp. goggles.


What could cause faucets to spit and sputter only in the fall/winter?

If the pump does not short cycle, that means the bladder in the tank is OK, assuming you have seldom needed to refill it with air.

A shallow well could be the root of your problem. Especially if summer coincides with your rainy season. At the beginning of last winter, along with most of the rest of it, the Northeast USA was in a drought:

Upgrading our summer home, we sunk two additional well-points (with a jackhammer), as the pump we got to handle our four new bathrooms was to powerful for the existing single well-point. Evening being located five feet above, and 200' away from a lake we had supply problems; it would cavitate/aerate.

Does your faucet spit and sputter? -JohnDee.com, people suggesting low water table or bad pump seals. Possibly yours fail with a drop in incoming temperature.


DIY Tetherball Pole. Screw in or sink it into the ground

1" pipe is too small. I'd go 2 3/8" or 2 1/2" OD galvanized steel pipe (galvanized so it doesn't rust) if you can find it.

I like the idea of the threaded pipe. The only negative that comes to mind is that it could be a tripping hazard or a hazard if somebody falls on it.

But what if you attach the coupler to the short pipe and set it in concrete so that the threads are in the ground (the top of the coupler is level with the concrete). Fill the coupler with something before pouring the concrete so you keep the threads clean. I'd probably pack some kind of heavy grease into the threads, as well, to protect them from corrosion and to make it easier to get the big pipe in and out (that could be really difficult to do if the threads rust together while the pipe is installed).

Then when you remove the pipe for storage you can pack a little more protective grease in there and cover the hole with a mat, or put some kind of stopper in it to protect it, and you have usable outdoor space without a pipe sticking out of the ground.

EDIT: @Tester101 has a good point of caution about the potential for the threads to wear and/or deform over time, especially as the pipe is removed and put back over and over, and probably has plenty of stories to tell about things that fell apart. On the other hand, this sort of thing isn't totally unprecedented. You can certainly use components like the galvanized flange pictured just below and get pretty good structural strength.

There's also the old standby portable concrete-filled-tire tetherball pole which works okay and can be moved. So two things come to mind about that. One is that it's a third option. The other is that if it actually works without falling over or making the game no fun (and I'm pretty sure it does), then the forces transmitted from the swinging tether ball may not be severe enough to damage a threaded connection like we're discussing.

On the other hand, don't underestimate the ability of a dedicated rough-houser to break things. And if the threaded solution did get broken, then you'd have to dig it up and re-do it.

Finally, you definitely can get at least 2" galvanized pipe from one of your local box stores without getting a second mortgage (not that it's cheap): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-2-in-x-10-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Pipe-568-1200HC/100565809

You might also check local hardware and plumbing supply stores and other sources online to see if you can get the bigger pipe.


Dryer Outlet Splitter - Buy or Make? 10-30

Let's start with the fact that the 10-30R is an obsolete receptacle that only exists because the NEC 250.140 says it can if it is existing   (the grandfather clause). To try and use for any other appliance or machine would violate the NEC. The cord and plug splitter is an attempt at an end-run around the NEC but since the equipment isn't existing then you cannot use the neutral as a ground. You really need a plug and cord with a NEMA 6-30 configuration on any equipment whose voltage rating is 240V with a ground and no neutral.

Also NEC 210.21(B)(2) says you cannot connect multiple cord and plug loads totaling more that 24A on any 30A circuit. I can almost guarantee that your dryer pulls 4500W which is 18.75A so your saw, jointer, whatever can only pull 5.25A or a 1/2 or less HP motor. The fact that you say "I am not going to use them at the same time" doesn't really apply in the NEC.

Conclusion You cannot use your neutral as a ground on any equipment other than your dryer without an up grade of that circuit, and your loads are probably in violation of the NEC.

Best advice - Tell your father that you and your wife are moving in with him until the new circuits are installed. I know that would get me down to my sons house the next day.

Hope this helps.


Determine highest "carbon reduced per dollar spent" option for reducing pollution generated by home?

Pick the low-hanging fruit.
For the vast majority of homes, improving insulation and airsealing (caulking cracks, foaming gaps, etc.) will make the largest impact on both operating cost and pollution produced, by reducing the amount of whatever energy source you use to heat and cool your home.
Maintaining the appliances you have to ensure that they operate as efficiently as possible also reduces wasted energy and excess pollution and your bills. Have you flushed the water heater this year? Is the vent/chimney clean, have the burners been adjusted or maintained to burn clean?
In many (not all) cases, replacing a functioning appliance before it becomes non-economical to repair is contributing to pollution, since large parts of the appliance are not actually recycled and end up as trash.
If you improve the airsealing enough that you need one, a Heat or Energy recovery ventilator will save additional energy on heating or cooling fresh air, while also keeping your house healthy to live in.


Where to start laying hardwood floor in "T" shaped room

Say you start with your piece running parallel to A.  You take it from the bottom left corner all the way up to the F wall.  Solid piece, all the way up.

Now you backfill to the left of the piece, working towards D.  When you reach D, you will probably need to do a rip cut for the last piece to go in D.

You'll cross the room from A to B also putting in full pieces until you hit B at which point you'll probably need to do some kind of rip there as well.

Here's the only really tricky bit - where B meets the wall that links to C you'll have to do a partial rip cut.  Your rip should let you fit the piece in at B but where the space to C is, you want the full piece.


What are the different parts of a toilet seat called?

Lid/cover,seat, hinge,mounting stud or bolt, retaining nuts, you could also include the bumpers if they aren't molded into the seat and lid.


24 Electrical outlets replaced, only 12 work

It sounds like either there's something seriously wrong with a) the products he is using; or b) his methods in doing the work.

"Back stab" connections are a common source of problems.  These are a little hole you jab the wire into, on cheap outlets. It's easy to mess up and hard to realize it.  Electricians use them because they are cheap and they can work fast and make more money.  The quality is terrible and they tend to fail (which may relate to the question of why the old outlets need replacing).  I never use them.  I buy better outlets, such as the $3-4 ones, and use screw terminals or the "clamp-and-screw" method the better outlets allow. Here's a page comparing "cheap" and "better".
 https://www.handymanhowto.com/electrical-outlets-side-wire-versus-back-wire/

Another mistake is blindly replacing a bunch of outlets without testing each step of the way.  Power comes in from the panel and goes to the first receptacle in the chain, then from there to later outlets, typically by "passing through" the outlet. Understand the layout of the wiring, and work one outlet at a time.

There's also the mistake of breaking off the "tab" between the outlet screws, or using used outlets where you do not realize the tab is broken off. These separate the two outlets into separate circuits, so for instance one outlet can be always-on and the other can be switched with a light switch.  If you're trying to use both terminals or backstabs to pass-through an outlet with broken tabs, the pass-through won't work and that will kill downstream outlets.


Can I install data wiring in a clothes closet?

The current solution being installed in new homes is a "structured media enclosure" that you can install between the studs in a closet wall. Since it's between the studs, you need to make sure nothing is currently running in that space today (although an outlet that's wired from below servicing the other side of the wall would be very convenient). You want this on an interior wall so that you're not dealing with insulation. The outlet is installed as part of the enclosure and the enclosure is covered to reduce the risk of clothing blocking vents and starting a fire.

Here's a sample enclosure:

See this question for photos and a discussion about typical wiring in one of these enclosures. Your patch panel for networking, phone splitter, cable splitter, router/modem are all installed inside the panel. Typically, electrical is wired from below and all the data wiring goes through access holes in the top. When closed, no wires come out the front of the panel, everything stays inside the wall and panel.

I'd also recommend installing an access panel in the ceiling of your closet to make it easier to fish new wiring, unless there is access from above. If you're going to open up a lot of walls/ceilings to fish the wiring, then you may also want to install some conduit to each of your drops in case you want to change this network in the future without opening everything up again.


Why isn't my thermostat clicking on/off automatically?

If they have replaced it twice, it is likely that the fault lies elsewhere or the thermostat is miswired.

I replaced mine with one that incorporates an indicator lamp to show if it is on (signalling heating system to provide heat)

This type of thermostat incorporates a "heat anticipator" that receives power when the thermostat is "on". If miswired, the heat anticipator can be on all the time and cause the thermostat to think the temperature is always high - and so never switch on the heating.

This particular thermostat operates at high voltage, so unless you are comfortable working with voltages that can easily kill you, you should get an electrician to do any investigation or other work.

There are a huge variety of thermostat designs, so what applies in my part of the world may not apply in yours.


If possible it is better to bury it to avoid exposure to the elements and damage from miscellaneous things. Having it above ground is no problem though as long as it is firmly supported. You don't say where you are, so without knowing the climate, there is no way to know how to support it.

One simple way to support it over soft ground is to drive a long metal rod into the ground, like a grounding rod, weld a split ring hanger to the rod, then fasten the pipe in the hanger.


Does this TV cabinet need the screws or can it rest on the frame?

Depending on the material and the screws you may not need pilot holes; just a little force to get them started.
The shelf will provide additional lateral stability. Whether or not you need it is an engineering question. I would definitely want that added stability.
Sometime in the future, when you decide to slide the TV on the table top, e.g., for dusting or adjusting cables, you will be glad the screws are there. You or someone else will likely have forgotten the screws aren't there and when the top slides off enough to drop the TV you will rue the day you said no to the screws. (Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.)


How can I install this programmable switch where a neutral is not present?

The naked wire is the ground (sometimes colored green) and is not the same as the neutral.

Your particular installation requires a neutral so that the switch can be powered without sending power to the load.  If there is no neutral in your electrical box it means that the power source (line) does not come into that box and instead you are just switching the hot from another source.  A traditional single-pole single-throw switch only switches the hot so it does not need the neutral.  There might be one behind the switch, it will have a wire nut on it and be connected to all the other neutral wires coming into the box. If present you should use this and not the ground.

If there is no neutral then unfortunately, you cannot install this type of switch in this location without running a new cable.


In the U.S., the tank (cistern) and bowl are sold together and are unique between manufacturers and models. You generally can't put one brand of tank on another brand bowl, just like you can't put Fiat parts on an Austin. The only likely way would be to purchase a cistern of the same manufacture which is also compatible with the model you have.


Be very careful with the grinder. It is only used to establish the original critical angle and to take out nicks in the cutting edge. If you use too heavy a pass and the metal changes color (metal temper color - extremely light straw, you've started to mess up - blue or dull metal color, you've really messed up), you soften the metal and it won't keep an edge till retempered or ground past the area where the coloration occurred.

Once the angle is established, you use standard sharpening stones to keep the edge, they are much finer grit and establish a really sharp edge. On a properly maintained tool with an established angle, this part is a touch-up process, not a laborious grind, and may be done several times during a turning session if maintaining a really sharp edge is necessary.

After fine stone work, you can use a strop charged with buffing compound to remove the burr (wire edge) that results from a good sharpening session. I also just used the buffing wheel on the other grinder (always use the portion of the wheel where the surface is passing away from you so the point doesn't catch and throw the tool at you).


What's the best option to repair a long asphalt driveway with heavily cracked portions?

Not sure about GemSeal or similiar stuff, but if You live in hard climate area, won't last for long, to be sure.
That will crack in next year or so.
Possible, but depends on how long these cracks are and what kind of these are (what forces cause this problem). I wouldn't recomend that.
Good idea, especially in harsh climate, where ground freezes in winter, and - if underbed of Your current layer is rather badly done. It may be done with other material than asphalt. There are some materials like brick paving. You could do this Yourself probably. Don't forget to make good substructure.

If You are short on money, try 1.(not sure) or 3.(You will need some devices and helping hands).  If You got some savings and want to to this really nice and good-looking, choose 4. (which I strongly prefer).


What is a good solution for hiding insulation in an unfinished basement?

I have seen it covered with fiberglash screen mesh. It will let it breath, but still keep it off of you if you accidentally brush up against it. A whole basement covered in it would not be that inexpensive though. Maybe some 1/4 inch paneling.


Help replacing fluorescent light fixture - 2 sets of black and 2 sets of white

If you originally have (2) black wires and (2) white wires coming into the existing light fixture ,that had been working before, than these are connected to the new fixture.
The black wire from the new fixture connects to the (2) incoming black wires and the white connects to the (2) white wires.
It might be wise to replace both fluorescent fixtures rather than keep one and replace the other with an LED.


How to clarify and remove green tint to an in ground pool

Green is most likely algae, but it could be metals.  You have to get your water tested for metals and phosphates (most pool stores will do this for free if you bring in a water sample), and then get rid of any measurable amounts using products designed for the purpose.

Cloudiness is also consistent with both of those problems, but could be independent:  If after you resolve any algae and/or metal problem it's still cloudy then add a clarifier.  If that doesn't solve cloudiness then you would most likely have a filter problem – e.g., tear or leak in the filter.


A 50hz motor will spin approximately 20% faster and draw approximately 20% more than the rated power. Increasing frequency can cause over heating and if the motor is pushing a substantial load the core is not large enough to prevent a cascade failure before you see the magic smoke being released. Many motors are dual rated and can handle the difference but if it is a true 50Hz 220V motor you will be connecting to 60Hz 240V so keep an eye on the tempature. I just thought you should also listen to see if it can change from the start/run to the run winding if it has a centrifugal starter.


Studio apartment only has 2 prong outlets, I need to plug my PC into a 3 prong one

There is some cause for concern if you're getting a shock from the case of your computer.  There should normally be no voltage between the earth and the case.  Adding a green wire will bond the case to the earth and you won't feel that shock any more, but there may be current on that equipment ground wire, which is a problem.  So while grounding the receptacle is a good idea and a safety improvement, it may only mask a problem with your computer, not fix that problem.
Running a green wire (at least #14) for the ground terminal of that receptacle to your breaker panel is electrically sound, and even code compliant by the recent revisions of the NEC, IF and only if the case of your breaker panel is  bonded to an equipment grounding / safety ground system.
This is not a perfect test, but you could run an extension cord from that receptacle to your panel, and test for continuity / resistance between the neutral slot on the extension cord and the panel metal case.  You want to see continuity and very low (practically zero) resistance.


These usually come apart by first removing the handle. Look for a set screw or cap at the end of the handle base and remove it. Now the cartridge will be exposed. There's usually a large nut or threaded collar that holds it in place. Remove the nut/collar and you should be able to remove the cartridge. You should then be able to see the bottom of the swivel and locate some sort or locking ring. Once removed, you should be able to pull the swivel out, exposing some "o"rings. You would want to replace them.

Even if everything comes apart, there's a good chance the new "o"rings won't solve the leak. If you look closely at the top where the swivel meets the base, you'll see a lot of pitting/corrosion. If that corrosion goes down to where the "o"rings sit, you could be out of luck. It might be time to decide if you really like that faucet or if there's another type you'd like more and replace it.


Help diagnosing source of basement moisture

Can downspout be the issue?

For sure. You definitely don't want the downspout dumping at the foundation line. Ideally you'd have it exit several feet away from your foundation (via an elbow or a splash block or what have you).

Ultimately, the water has to be carried away from that corner of your property. Does your property slope away from that corner or is that a possible place where water is collecting from other parts of the property?

You may need to put in some surface drains to migrate that water to a lower part of the property. I'd also check to see if you can find out how high the water table is on your property. Alas, you can't do much about high water tables.


That doesn't look like asphalt or what you called macadam, it looks like what we call "modified" which is progressively smaller stone chips usually slag or limestone containing a top coating of a fine layer of the same material. After the modified stuff is compacted and weathered and run over with machinery the material resembles an asphalt or loose concrete product that is great for driveways and walkways but will become somewhat loose with age and use.


Ideas to hang five polycarbonate squares to ceiling

Neodymium, Rare earth magnets.

Very strong, one on each corner will be enough to hold 1.5 lbs.

Use the silicone that you have tested on the panels to attach a magnet to each corner of the panels and let cure for a day. Take the other magnets for the ceiling and turn them so they stick or attract the magnets on the panels and place them on the magnets already adhered to the panels so that they're holding together (one side attracts and one side repels).

Now you can use a clear instant-grip adhesive like loctite  to attach the magnets to the ceiling.

While the ceiling magnets are being held onto the panel magnets, place a little dab of adhesive on each magnet and then place the panel in position on the ceiling.

You may need to take a long strip of tape and tape the panel up to the ceiling until the adhesive sets.

When it's time to remove them, a putty knife or painters scraper should pop the magnets off.


Can I wire a Pump Start Relay to an outdoor GFCI outlet?

This is why GFCIs have LOAD terminals

A receptacle-type GFCI has two sets of terminals: LINE and LOAD.  The use of the LINE terminals is simple -- these are where power is applied to the GFCI.  The LOAD terminals, though, are interesting -- they are effectively a third receptacle on the back of the GFCI, only implemented using screw terminals or backstabs instead of normal NEMA receptacle contacts.  In other words, they extend GFCI protection to whatever is connected to them.

So, you can connect the wires feeding power to your pump start relay box (hot + neutral) to the LOAD terminals on the existing GFCI.  This way, you don't need to put in another GFCI, just a standard receptacle, and you don't have to worry about oddities that might be caused by the second GFCI having power cut to it on a regular basis.  Just remember to put one of those "GFCI PROTECTED" stickers on the regular outlet that you're wiring up to the pump start box if you do this!


End-line switches for new overhead lighting and new ceiling fan

Since it's all on the same circuit, this works

Since the receptacle being fed from the switch box is on the same circuit as the light, we know that we have a neutral at the switch box already (a Code requirement now, see NEC 404.2(C) for details), so we don't have to worry about that with our new runs of wire from the ends of the light run down to the switch boxes, called switch loops by electricians.  You'll still want a length of 12/3 for the run from the fan down to the switch box though; this gives you the flexibility to have the ceiling fan and its light kit controlled by separate switches, or to use any ceiling fan controller you wish instead of being locked into one of only a few options.


Is this too many items on a 20 AMP Breaker?

Whether or not that's too much depends on what is plugged into the outlets, how often each item is used, and how many items are used together.

That seems like far too many things on one breaker to me. If I was wiring that, I would not have done it that way. Now that it's already like that, fixing it is most likely a big chore. If, and that's a big, unlikely if, you're lucky, you may have more than one wire run coming into the electrical panel to that breaker. In that case, one or more of the runs could be moved to a new breaker (assuming there's room in the panel, and I find it hard to believe there isn't). Working in an electrical panel is dangerous and must be done by an individual that understands what they're doing, be it you or an electrician. Please be careful.

If you're not lucky, there will be one main run coming off of the breaker, and it's split somewhere in an electrical box in your home. If you're so motivated, you can chase this down and find the splits. Then you could fish new wire runs from a new breaker to one of the splits.

Good luck with whichever method you chose.


Very interesting question.  My first thought is that dropping 6 inches in 3 weeks is not really normal in a sealed system, but not a condition to be alarmed about.  The goal of any inground leaching system is to exit solid free water to a sandy bed to filter and absorb into the grounds.
It is very difficult to determine if you have a crack or breach in your tank without inspecting it when empty and cleaned. Usually my septic subs will drain the tank, clean the bottom enough to look for a displacement crack or root infiltration. It is rare that we go to that extent unless there is evidence of effluent waste water surfacing on the ground. This is evident by soggy ground and a foul smell.

If you do have a minor leak towards the bottom of your tank, it really isn't causing any real harm as the waste water is just taking a short cut. As long as you don't have the symptoms of failure, I wouldn't worry to much right now.  Many old systems actually used just a leaky tank without a leach field. This was common on small lots in areas of sandy soils that drained well.

As long as your septic tank is far enough away from a well used for potable water, contamination should not be a problem.  If you do use a well, a water test might be a good idea if the tank is in closer proximity than the leach field.


Looking for a chimney enclosure solution before insulating attic

From the photos, the stack is class B venting.  You local big box store should be able to supply you with a part called "attic insulation shield".  It's just another pipe 2" larger in diameter than your stack & the top gets sealed with a storm collar to fit.  Seal with hi-temp silicone and insulation to your hearts content.  Stacks that service a zero clearance appliances are not zero clearance as well - only the appliance is.


How can I safely remove stick-on tiles that are on top of asbestos tiles?

There is no Do-It-Yourself asbestos abatement process that meets US construction industry standards for safety and the protection of air quality.

The only proper methods for renovating structures containing asbestos bearing building materials require removal and/or encapsulation by professionals experienced in the area.

There is no silver bullet in a can. Organic solvents are not that selective.


Fan coil wiring problem with new thermostat

Not sure what model equipment you're using, but it seems like the new thermostat requires a neutral connection.   If this is the case, you'll want to make the connections as follows:
At the Thermostat

Connect the black wire to the B terminal in your diagram.
Connect the white wire to the N or neutral terminal.
Connect the red wire to the Heat (and Cool if that's how it was on the old thermostat) terminal(s).

At the Junction Box

Connect the white wire from the cable going to the thermostat,  together with the other white wires in the box.


Easy way to find out if this wall is load bearing? (double top plate, but parallel with trusses) with pictures

I see rafters in your pics, not trusses.  Regardless, in general, you are right that bearing walls don't normally run parallel to the rafters. If it were load bearing, there should be a kneewall (2X4's) built from the rafters or a header down to the double plate you spoke off.  Also, in the basement level, you would see a beam with posts to the footers directly under the subject wall.  The only unanswered question I have is, if the addition roof is being supported to that wall? I do see in your pic a small knee wall from the rafters to something below, but not sure if that is part of the wall you want to remove.  Summary, if there are not structural supports going from the rafters to the double plate of the wall you want to remove, it most likely is not a supporting wall.


Is there a functional difference between a $200 freestanding grill and a $2000 built-in grill?

There MAY be some real differences. Using the microwave oven as an example, which I actually have some experience with. A typical countertop (i.e., not built-in) microwave oven is typically designed NOT to be fixed in pretty much any way. If a switch, fuse, motor, etc. fails then generally it is both hard to fix, if it is at all possible to safely do so. A built-in microwave oven is designed like a conventional oven - serviceable, wiring diagram usually included, parts available from traditional supply houses or online. Fire (don't ask...) in a built-in microwave oven - find the thermal fuses and replace them. Fire in a countertop microwave oven - throw it away and get another one. Bad heating element in a conventional built-in oven - replace the element. Bad heating element in a countertop toaster oven - replace the appliance. There are also sometimes other differences as well.

I can't say for sure what the differences are with BBQ grills. I suspect there are some differences in terms of serviceability, quality of construction, durability, etc. Whether they are worth 5x the price is another story. Part of the difference in price is of course due to mass production - if you can produce 100,000 grills instead of 10,000, you can definitely amortize the design, tooling and other production costs and get the grills out the door for a lot less.


Insulating Existing Walls with Lathe & Plaster, Wood Siding, and Stucco

To me, a moisture barrier is on the exterior of the building and a vapor barrier is on the interior of the building. Vapor barriers should not have a perm rating of 1 or less because trapped vapor in the stud space needs a way to escape back towards the heated side (or air conditioned side in the summer.) Moisture barriers should have a perm rating much better (lower number). Moisture from inside the building will migrate towards the exterior. After you install wall insulation, moisture will turn from vapor to water at the dew point and end up in the wall cavity. That's why it is important to completely fill the wall cavity, giving less air (vapor) to turn to water.

So, on the interior face of the wall, it's ok not to have a vapor barrier, because any moisture that does get in the wall will need a way to escape. On the exterior side of the wall a moisture barrier is a must, because you want to keep water out. (this isn't just a little vapor trying to enter the wall.)

The exterior stucco could be an EFIS System if it's 2" thick and it should have a vapor barrier. If it's stucco, then it should have a vapor barrier too, but needs to be verified. (Probably 2 layers of building paper.) if the "exterior stucco" you call it is helping keep your house cool in the summer, then it's probably EFIS because it has a layer of insulation board in the system.

I don't think you can use anything other than foam insulation in the wall, because you need to make the insulation go "up" due to the diagonal bracing. However, remember the entire stud space must be filled. You'll need to drill holes at the top and bottom of the wall due to the diagonal bracing, which brings me to the most difficult issue: drilling through the stucco or EFIS system.

Patching stucco or EFIS is difficult. Stucco probably has a metal fabric layer that will be difficult to cut through without ripping the stucco apart. Stucco and EFIS should be patched by a professional. If you mess up patching these systems it will leak and you'll have a mess. Don't try it yourself.

The plaster in the lathe and plaster system may have asbestos. You can get a kit and send a sample off for testing. If positive, be sure to protect you and your helpers. (By the way the asbestos fibers will linger for days and land on everything in the room. Clean up involves cleaning everything. Use plastic drop cloths and toss when done. Asbestos companies use fans in windows to create a negative air pressure so you're not blowing asbestos around the neighborhood. ) I recommend a licensed abatement company if you have much to remove. Plaster can be patched, but you may develop cracks again. I'd add a layer of 1/2" gypsum board if the studs are 16" oc.

By the way, don't forget to vent the attic when you add attic insulation.


Board on top of joists in attic. Is it structural?