Easy/Cheap fix to insulating 2x4 exterior wall in Maryland

You can have blown-in insulation added after the fact. They will drill small, maybe 1-1/2" holes in the stucco, one above and one below the fire blocks in each section between the studs and blow in the chopped fiberglass material. then they patch the stucco and if you have some of the original leftover paint, they will repaint it. If not they try to match it, but the success of that varies.

Most HOAs will allow this by the way, so long as the contractor is licensed and in some cases pre-approved by the HOA.

This is what it looks like when they are done, pre-painting.


Does our main air intake need an electrostatic filter if our furnace already has one?

Question of whether you can do it depends on the static pressure load your furnace is already dealing with.  The nameplate on your furnace will specify the maximum static pressure allowance.  This is basically a measure of how much resistance the furnace blower feels when pushing air.

Whatever you do in whatever configuration of filters including allowances for dirty filters you need to stay below this limit at all times to prevent potentially serious problems including cracked heat exchangers and frosting over of AC coils.  The fancier pleated/electrostatic filters with high ratings for dust collection significantly increase overall static pressure v. cheap fiberglass.

If the guy has no clue what the static pressure of the system is and did not have a manometer to check it with both filters installed I wouldn't go there.  I know my system couldn't handle it.

On question of should you.. I suppose having filters would protect return ducts from new dust not already filtered out of the air by main filter.


Why is my furnace blower running at low speed?

Your furnace is shutting down on limit. There can be a number of causes for this.

Start by making sure you have a clean filter in the furnace. A dirty or restrictive filter can cause this issue. Alternatively you could also have a dirty or plugged up A/C evaporator coil which is located above your furnace. This can also cause a furnace to cycle off on high limit, however is uncommon unless you have run your furnace without a filter for prolonged periods of time. Also if you have a high efficiency furnace, there is more of a chance to have the secondary heat exchanger plug up rather than the A/C coil.

You can also have a blower motor issue. The motor can be faulty or seizing up causing it to not spin fast enough to move enough air through the furnace. Another cause may be that you have a faulty limit that is opening prematurely.

The major issue that can cause this problem is a heat exchanger issue. If your furnace is cycling off on high limit, and everything checks out, you may have an internal blockage of the heat exchanger. If this is the case either the heat exchanger or the furnace will need to be replaced. A combustion analysis of the furnace is required to prove this is the issue.

If you happen to have a 2 stage high efficiency furnace you could have a bad ventor motor gasket which is allowing air to be drawn in behind the motor. Big cracks in the condensate collector pan can also cause this but is very uncommon. You can also have the a two stage gas valve high fire solenoid stuck open, but this is also very uncommon and can only happen on 2 stage furnaces. Also if you have a bryant, payne, or carrier high efficiency, you could have a cold spot baffle leakage that is allowing air to be drawn in between the primary and secondary heat exchanger however this is also very uncommon.

If you think your blower is not spinning fast enough you may also have a bad blower motor, or if an ecm motor, the control board may be bad. If its a fixed speed motor and your getting power to it but its not spinning fast enough it could possibly be a bad blower motor. If you decide to change out the blower motor, make sure to get the appropriate replacement capacitor to go with it. I actually did have the same issue on an older carrier high efficiency furnace a few weeks back. It ended up being a bad blower motor, however the motor spun freely and had no indications of seizing or hard starting.


No - the breaker has to be sized for the conductor it protects.  Your 10 gauge conductors have to be treated as the separate conductors they are.  If one of the 10 gauge wires downstream was damaged, it could overheat without tripping the breaker.


Roofer or framer that installs a Velux Sun Tunnel?

A roofer can/could install the tunnel, but I would leave to a finish carpenter to trim out the ceiling unless it has a fool proof way for it to finish out that a DIY or roofer could complete.


What wire gauge do I need for a 100 Amp subpanel at the end of a 60' wire run?

When determining feeder conductor size, you'll want to consider the "lowest temperature rating of any connected termination, conductor, or device" as per National Electrical Code (NEC) Article 110.14(C).
While the cable/wire may be rated at 90°C, you'll likely find that the terminals are rated at 75°C, or not labeled at all. 110.14(C)(1)(a) tells us, that since we're working with 100 amperes or less. We should use the 60°C column of Table 310.15(B)(16) to determine the conductor size, unless the equipment is listed and labeled for a higher temperature.

National Electrical Code 2014
ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations
110.14(C)(1) Equipment Provisions. The determination of termination provisions of equipment shall be based on 110.14(C)(1)(a) or (C)(1)(b). Unless the equipment is listed and marked otherwise, conductor ampacities used in determining equipment termination provisions shall be based on Table 310.15(B)(16) (formerly 310.16) as appropriately modified by 310.15(B)(6).
(a) Termination provisions of equipment for circuits rated 100 amperes or less, or marked for 14 AWG through 1 AWG conductors, shall be used only for one of the following:
(1) Conductors rated 60°C (140°F).
(2) Conductors with higher temperature ratings, provided the ampacity of such conductors is determined based on the 60°C (140°F) ampacity of the conductor size used.
(3) Conductors with higher temperature ratings if the equipment is listed and identified for use with such conductors.
(4) For motors marked with design letters B, C, or D, conductors having an insulation rating of 75°C (167°F) or higher shall be permitted to be used, provided the ampacity of such conductors does not exceed the 75°C (167°F) ampacity.

Since the cable will run from a breaker in the main service panel, to either a breaker or lugs in a subpanel.  We have to consider the temperature rating of...

The conductors
The terminals in the main panel where the conductors will connect.
The terminals in the sub panel where the conductors will connect.

We'll then use the lowest value, or 60°C if any of the above are not labeled. Once we know the size of the overcurrent devices, and the lowest temperature rating, we can use Table 310.15(B)(16) to determine the conductor size and material we'll need.

This will give us the current carrying conductor size required for our feeder.
But wait...
If you're working in a one-, two-, or multi-family dwelling unit, is Article 310.15(B)(7) applicable?

National Electrical Code 2014
ARTICLE 310 Conductors for General Wiring
310.15 Ampacities for Conductors Rated 0–2000 Volts.
(B) Tables. Ampacities for conductors rated 0 to 2000 volts shall be as specified in the Allowable Ampacity Table 310.15(B)(16) through 310.15(B)(19), and Ampacity Table 310.15(B)(20) and Table 310.15(B)(21) as modified by (B)(1) through (B)(7).
The temperature correction and adjustment factors shall be permitted to be applied to the ampacity for the temperature rating of the conductor, provided the corrected and adjusted ampacity does not exceed the ampacity for the temperature rating of the termination in accordance with the provisions of 110.14(C).
(7) 120/240-Volt, 3-Wire, Single-Phase Dwelling Services and Feeders.
(a) For individual dwelling units of one-family, two-family, and multifamily dwellings, conductors, as listed in Table 310.15(B)(7), shall be permitted as 120/240-volt, single-phase service-entrance conductors and service lateral conductors.

NO.
Notice the codes says

"shall be permitted as 120/240-volt, single-phase service-entrance conductors and service lateral conductors".

After reading the definition of these terms, it's clear that this does not apply to the wire between the main panel and a subpanel.

Service-Entrance Conductors, Overhead System. The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and a point usually outside the building, clear of building walls, where joined by tap or splice to the service drop or overhead service conductors.
Service-Entrance Conductors, Underground System. The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and the point of connection to the service lateral or underground service conductors.
Service Lateral. The underground conductors between the utility distribution system and the service point.

tl;dr
Conductors and all terminals rated at or above 75°C.
Use 3 AWG copper or 1 AWG aluminium for the current carrying conductors.
Conductors rated at or above 75°C, terminals rated at 60°C or unlabeled.
Use 1 AWG copper or 1/0 AWG aluminium for the current carrying conductors.
Conductors and terminals rated at 60°C.
Use 1 AWG copper or 1/0 AWG aluminium for the current carrying conductors.
Conductors rated at 60°C, terminals rated higher than 60°C
Use 1 AWG copper or 1/0 AWG aluminium for the current carrying conductors.


Why do you double the bottom row of asphalt shingles

Because asphalt shingles are slottet and have gsaps at their ends. Those openings are covered by the solid top of the (offset)  next row down. At the bottom, tho cover those spaces, you need the coverage provided by the next row down.

Rather than sdpent time cutting up shingles or getting a separate product for that space, we just use an additional nrow of shingles, offset but not moved fsarther down the roof.

Mounting them upside down is a matter of "as long as they're hidden anyway, let's use the unslitted half for that purpose and get slightly better coverage."

If you were using traditional separate shingles, you would still need to fill the gaps between shingles but presumably reversing them would have little effect on that. It might affect the angle or appearance of the bottom edge... But I honestly don't know offhand what standard practice is in that regard.


Very interesting situation.  First off, replacing perfectly good vinyl windows is not going to help you from what I see on your pics. Simple weeping drains around windows is not going to help much with all the moisture I see on walls, ceilings and floor.

I would suggest you have someone come in with an infrared scanner and make a sweep of the building to determine areas where moisture may be coming from. If the water is coming in from outside through the roof, floor etc., infrared should be able to see it. knowing where the sources of moisture are will help you in making decisions on how to mitigate it.

If this problem is internal condensation, you may need to install some sort of ventilation system. Dehumidifiers certainly would help, but depending on the areas in the house creating the problem may be addressed with better ventilation.  Bathrooms, laundry are prime areas for excess moisture.

Since this condition is creating mildew and mold (seen in pics) , I think you should have some professional evaluation before the mold situation becomes a serious health issue.


Can a gas pipe/tube run under floor joists?

Piping run concealed in finished spaces has to be installed through the joists and protected from physical damage. Or be run in black or galvanized steel. Or you could box the pipe run and shield it. Also, a flexible appliance connector has a length limit of 6 feet.

Code quotes are from the 2012 IRC

SECTION G2415 (404) PIPING SYSTEM INSTALLATION

  62415.7 (404.7) Protection against physical damage. In
  concealed locations, where piping other than black or galvanized steel is installed through holes or notches in wood studs, joists, rafters or similar members less than 1.5 inches (38 mm) from the nearest edge of the member, the pipe shall be protected by shield plates. Shield plates shall be a minimum of 1/16-inch-thick (1.6 mm) steel, shall cover the area of the pipe where the member is notched or bored and shall extend a minimum of 4 inches (102 mm) above sole plates, below top plates
  and to each side of a stud, joist or rafter.

SECTION G2422 (411) APPLIANCE CONNECTIONS

  62422.1.1 (411.1.1) Protection from damage. Connectors and tubing shall be installed so as to be protected against physical damage.

  62422.1.2.1 (411.1.3.1) Maximum length. Connectors shall not exceed 6 feet (1829rnm) in overall length. Measurement shall be made along the
  centerline of the connector. Only one connector shall be used for each appliance.

  Exception: Rigid metallic piping used to connect an appliance to the piping system shall be permitted to have a total length greater than 6 feet (1829 mm), provided that the connecting pipe is sized as part of the
  piping system in accordance with Section G2413 and the location of the equipment shutoff valve complies with Section G2420.5.

Have you considered a drop ceiling in this area?

Good luck with your project!


How do you finish a window installation?

google "trim interior window" =

video:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20046338,00.html

steps:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,218130,00.html

Assuming you have already:
1) insulated in the rough opening with low-expansion spray foam
2) sheetrocked to the rough opening


How can I insulate my basement on a budget?

You are in the same climate zone as me.  Your walls do not have to be insulated from top to bottom according to building science reports (please read their definition of basement which is totally below grade).   They only suggest floor to ceiling insulation in our region given spray foam or rigid foam - in "typical" home basements.

What I have been doing the past 6-7 years with great results - including my own house - is only insulating about 1 foot below grade, using BS advice.  I use rock wool.  I stuff any joist areas until they meet wall level.  A decent size house costs about $250.  The results can be felt right away.  My crews ask that this not be done until right before the drywall is put up because the basement instantly retains a ton of heat.

This is the exact reason why it is not necessary in our region to go floor to ceiling.  By over insulating you are not allowing for any cool air to come in during the warmer 6-8 months out of the year.  I for sure have noticed an increase in AC usage while a decrease in furnace usage in my own home.

Also by leaving your bottom half exposed you are creating a high volume area for air flow.  Meaning any moisture that gets in - and there is always some - will evaporate quickly.

So we simply stagger our scrap 2x4s about 1 foot below grade (sometimes this is just the top 1-2 feet of framing), stuff rock wool against wall and then above our framing into the joists all the way to the outer wall.  This is super cheap and super effective and all inspectors in our area were more than pleased with this.  Again this is not for cold climates but will work in the Midwest.


When installing new tile around a tub what items do I need to be sure and have done?

Are we to assume Tub Wall or Tub Floor ? You mention Bull Nose is why I am asking.

There are not many standards but too large will look odd - I would do a MAX of a 12 inch for the floor (I have this now and it is fine) - but I would also make it a Diagonal layout.
6 or 8 Inch tile would probably be best for that size.

3/16th Grout line - easier to lay 1/8 inch much harder ..as small height changes tile to tile are more noticeable..

Get a nice grout color that blends well.

Spend the extra $$ for the Water proof board.. you can also lay in the rubber seal mat . Especially if doing a shower wall ..

EDIT 9-2-2017

Shower / Tub wall:
For a wall you should use both the durorock and also the waterproof Tile Membrane  - while you can do this without the Tile Membrane - I suggest to use it.
The 3/16 inch grout line is really wide for a shower / tub wall 1/8 is better, personally I would do no more than 1/4 ..

As for tile size depends on how big your wall is and what look you want to achieve. Some people use subway tile (4 or 6 inch) b/c they 'love it' . I hate that stuff.

You can use 8 or 12 inch very nicely - measure out your wall make your design on paper - KNOW where it will start and end on the back wall, the sides and  and near the ceiling. So you will get the proper layout. Start in the center of the Back wall so you can split the size difference - in case you do not have a perfect fit of tiles plus grout.

REMEMBER TO MEASURE YOUR TILE

1: Your tile might not be exactly 12 Inches it might be 11 and 3/4 inch. That way you can use that as a measure number when determining how it will lay out on your wall. Tile Width + Grout Width .. / or Tile Height + Grout Width

2: If you are going to run the tile to the ceiling - remember that you will have difficulty with any crown molding that you might have in the bathroom .

3: If the tiles do not go to the ceiling - you will have a gap and might need to use bull nose around the top $$$$$ .. running all the way up might be cheaper.

4: Also if you want a soap tray for a shower in the wall - Plan for that in your design - it is not hard to do since you are making the wall .. just remember to put a slight downward slope towards the tub on the base tile  - use a small piece of extra Tile Membrane on the back side (1/4 inch strip) of the base area  to give you the required slope.


That is a little bit of you. And others in your house. You shed about 30,000 to 40,000 skin cells per MINUTE the vast majority of dust in a house is the dead skin cells of the occupants. Along with all the dead microscopic critters that inhabit our bodies.


First, thank you for adding the pictures. It helps a lot.

My best suggestion would be to remove the existing ~1.5" sill. (Properly speaking, it's a stool, with an apron below.) Put a new 4" or so one on. You'd probably have to remove the apron temporarily, as the thickness of the new stool might or might not be exactly the same as the old. Use long horizontal screws (1 per foot), well countersunk, that go at least 2" into the window frame. The worst case is that they glued the stool to the window jamb and you'll have a bit of splintery mess to clean up. It'll disappear with a bit of filler.

Otherwise, you have room to add a whole new ~6" or so on top of everything existing. Screw down at the window side into the window jamb. Caulk the joint between the new stool and the window trim so that condensation doesn't collect below. The downside to this plan is that the aesthetics of a stacked stool strike me as a bit odd, and you'd have to be a little bit fancy with cutting the new stool to fit. (There's lots of information about making templates to match irregular shapes out there.)

As I mentioned in the comments, use real wood for this, primed on all sides. Never MDF.

edit:
As requested from the OP in the comments, a critique of the second plan.

Structurally, it's better to have long screws horizontally into the wall and the add-on stool. That overcomes my initial concern that you were just going to break the original stool. Countersink and counterbore the new pieces so they don't bind when being screwed.

The crack can be filled with a two part wood filler (like Bondo), which will function fairly well. Paradoxically, you'd want a thin gap between the old and the new stools, as the filler will be able to flow below the roundover and thus lock itself in. You can force this crack by putting a metal washer on each horizontal screw. The trick with Bondo is to catch it as it hardens and cut it flush. (The best time is when it's like a firm jello. Poke the leftover filler to decide when you've hit that point.) Use a long sharp, slightly flexible blade (like an Olfa knife) to slice. If you cut too deep, you can add another layer. If you waited too long, you can sand, but that's work.

Prime and paint. You're done.

FWIW, removing the old stool wouldn't involve breaking the vertical casing. As I said, the biggest risk is that it was glued, which would mean a bit of chisel work to make a clean edge. It's absolutely true that a new stool would require a bit of fancy cutting, so I understand if you're reluctant.


It depends.   I don't think there is code for low voltage wiring (someone please correct me if there is code) junctioned out of reach/in a wall.   Main reasoning here is that I have seen many many phone and security lines installed and have seen these guys splice together lines everywhere.   I don't think their companies would train them to do this if it were against code.

However..........  I have also got permits in a lot of cities.   No inspector I have dealt with will let me bury a utility access point in a wall.   And given that there may be an older owner there next that may use the phone lines in good conscience I would put in a $2 rubber box and a plate on the wall - they do sell paintable blanks for stuff like this.

(Alternative is just note the EXACT location - picture with tape on the spot.   Know that if you need to access it you will need to cut open the wall there.   Know that you will disclose this if selling the home.)


Lifting mechanism for height adjustable sitting standing desk

The device you're describing, sounds like a four-bar linkage.

Not sure if you'll be able to find one available that suits your needs, or if you'll have to manufacture it yourself, or if it's even the best design for what you're trying to accomplish.  But hopefully that will help you find what you're looking for.


How to remove closet shelf clips and brackets without damaging the wall?

The wall is already damaged - nails do that to walls - so you're looking at fixing the wall no matter what.

With that in mind, you want a hammer, a small pry bar, a small quantity of joint compound or "wall repair spackle" (the latter is in the paint department), a sponge, a 1" putty knife, 1 pint or quart of primer and an equal quantity of interior paint matched to your existing paint as closely as possible, and a 1" trim paint brush.

Use the prybar and hammer to remove the clips and their nails.

Spread the joint compound smoothly over the damaged area with the putty knife, and allow to dry.

With the sponge DAMP NOT WET, smooth the compound even more.  Allow to dry again.

Apply primer with the brush to the dried joint compound.  Clean brush, allow it and the primer to dry.

Use same brush to paint the now dry white primer.


How should I stick acoustic foams on the walls?

Spray adhesive the panels on sheets of plywood and hang them like pictures
.
This is a great video, it's about home made sound absorption panels but there is a lot of useful information in it.

Watch "Anechoic Chamber - DIY Sound Absorption Panels" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/fqodnHxRJ7c


Electric range stove burned black hot wire

The #10 wire is too small coming from a 50 amp breaker. #10 or 10awg wire is only rated for 30 amps by code - this is why someone advised you to change to #6.

Just to make sure we are talking about the same wire, there should be #6 or #8 coming from the breaker to the range. If the wire that burned off is inside the range going to let's say an element or burner, then stay with the same size wire (high temp fixture wire).  Since you are talking about #14 I am guessing it goes to an element. The important thing about connections at elements is that you use connectors rated for high temp, for example many oven elements are male spade disconnect type connectors. Using a standard female crimp connector will have you back in there because the standard ones can not handle the heat. The ones I use on ovens are rated for 900f. So when replacing the wire if crimp connectors are used at the element use high temp ones or splice a piece on the existing wire using a high temp wire nut.


What is a humane, safe and clean way to dispose of a live mouse caught in a glue trap?

Wear a thick glove, the gardening kind is preferred. Flip a Ziplock or similar plastic bag inside out and cover your glove with it. Firmly grab the mouse (and its associated trap) with your gloved, "plasticked" hand and with your free hand, roll the Ziplock back out so you can seal it completely, with the mouse trapped inside.

Lay it on the floor, preferably a driveway or garage. Whack the poor thing with a heavy magazine or a shoe; make sure you hit its head for near-instantaneous death. It has already suffered enough; this will help it pass on quicker.

After you do this, please make sure you remove all the glue traps your pest control folks installed.


You asked a basic question of how to set the humidity level on the humidistat itself.  The easy answer is a table that is printed right on the face of my humidistat.  It's easier to use than subtracting outside temp from inside temp.

The magic of not using an indoor temp is they just assume a comfortable indoor temp (probably around 68-72F) and build a table based on that and outdoor temps.

The humidistat is not the only control however. Most forced air systems use a "flow-thru" humidifier. The other control then is an Air Damper that controls the volume of air that is re-circulated during humidifier operation. (There are a few models in a another class this may not apply to, but virtually every humidifier I've actually seen installed is the "flow-thru" type.)

This pic is a typical "Flow-thru" type humidifier.  When in operation warm air is fed from the duct entering on the left.  The air is pushed thru a water panel, and back into the return air side of the furnace.

For the humidifier to work the air duct must be open. The knob on the left side of the second picture is fully open when the knob is on high. Low on the other hand is not "low" but essentially fully closed.

In the winter to add humidity to the air, both the humidistat must be set high enough where it's calling for humidity AND the air damper must be open.

In the summer, you want the opposite. Turn OFF the humidistat and CLOSE the air damper, so that the Air Conditioning will have maximum effect.  (Air conditioning by nature DE-humidies or removes water from the air-- so you don't want to be adding water to the air just before the air is cooled.)

Three more thoughts:

1) You're probably thinking, how inconvenient to be adjusting the humidistat's setting frequently based on the outdoor temp swings.  The bottom line... You don't really need to.  In practice, just setting it around 30 or 40 and leave it the whole winter works out just great.  The reason is that if you keep the fan (on the thermostat) on the "auto" setting, the humidifier itself will only run when the furnace comes on.  If the temp is warmer outside it doesn't run much and not much humidity is added, as its colder outside it gets a chance to run more and add humidity, at the same time doors are opening and closing and letting in cold dry air. In the end it all averages out.

2) There is a disposable part in humidifiers.  The water panel needs to be replaced every couple years.  A worn out water panel will waste more water than it will add humidity to the house.

3) The water must be on, and the system can't be plugged up. When you switch the humidifier on the first time each year, test it.  Let is run long enough that you know water is coming out the drain hose.  I've seen cases where the water valve is either shut off, or orifice is plugged with calcium deposit and water won't flow.  (The orifice location varies by make and model, sometimes it's part of the solenoid valve on the humidifier other times its a little plastic part with just a pin hole for water to flow thru--It's what regulates the water flow to a tiny trickle.)


It flips back to 60 because that is the humidity it is reading in the space where it is. If it runs and does not produce any water try removing and re-inserting the catch basin to make sure it is the right position. If it still does not produce any water it may be time to replace the unit. If you have to replace the unit, it is probably a good idea to purchase the extended warranty/ insurance policy. My experience with new units is that they do not hold up well. Most usually last only 2-3 years.


Gutters above Garage Door on slanted driveway - is it necessary?

Water pouring off the roof will be an annoyance when you're driving or walking in/out of the garage door.
Water pouring off the roof will damage the concrete (take a look at the Grand Canyon if you're not convinced what water can do).
Despite the slope, water will splash, puddle and eventually get its way into your garage.

Yes, you should go ahead and get the gutters installed above the garage door. For the small additional cost, it's well worth it, IMHO.


Is is possible to have "bad" electricity in your home?

It's definitely possible to have poor power quality, which can lead to shortened life of devices.  It's possible for this to be caused by poor wiring in the building, though it's more commonly a problem with the distribution system.

In areas where utilities are older, it's common for the distribution systems to be overloaded by higher consumer demand.  This can lead to voltage fluctuations, which can be rough on electrical devices.

An electrician can monitor the system, and diagnose power quality problems. However,  they may be limited in their ability to solve the problem. The building owner may not be willing to pay for the repair, or the problem may be outside the building.


If you are not going to be consuming it, then you just need to keep algae from growing in it.

Make sure the container is full to the top to eliminate air from the algae. Then store it in a dark place to prevent sunshine from feeding the algae.

The other problems to consider might be contaminants in the container to start with and leeching of anything from the plastic into the water.

Good luck!


Chemical reaction damaged finish on my dining table

Strip and refinish is likely the only way forward with an acceptable outcome.
The plastic cover is more of a no-no than aerosol dusting products, really. On the other hand, there's no particular need for aerosol dusting products, ever, so...
The combination of the two is obviously bad.


Installing solar should be one of the last things you do.  You should first concentrate on those things that will reduce the amount of energy you will be using.  "The Green Building Advisor" has a good article on The Energy Efficiency Pyramid.

I believe this article will help you make some wise decisions about where to start.


How to deal with halogen lights hurting your eyes?

Well... if they are halogens, they are bulbs.  Replaceable bulbs.

Replace them with something else.

You have to be cautious when selecting LEDs because some LEDs can be even harsher than halogens, depending on how they're diffused internally.  However, you can count on a CFL bulb being gentler light.


How to determine where the cold is coming from?

Checking first to eliminate gaps hidden behind the doors' trim or molding is the place to begin. Expanding foam or pieces of rolled insulation work well to stop drafts.   If your door is mostly wood (as most are) it could be that the cold outside air is being conducted through the door. Installing an exterior second "storm door" would provide an air space and a thermal break from the frigid exterior air. This should solve any drafts that are allowing cold air to penetrate through to the living space. here is a link to a door door


Suggestion for bedroom furniture for a small home?

You could get some ideas from Resource Furniture designs. I have a feeling they're a little pricey (you've got to request quotes), so you may just be able to look at some concepts they have and make a DIY version.

Specifically, if you're looking to have a desk and a bed in the same room, here's a good option:


Why does my hot cooktop indicator light stay on too long?

This indicator may be driven by some form of temperature sensor.  If the light is staying on too long; or indefinitely, there is likely something wrong with the sensor, the sensor wiring, or the control board that interprets the signal from the sensor.

Without knowing the make and model of the stove, it's impossible to tell you where the sensor is, what type it is, how exactly to troubleshoot it, how to replace it, or if it can be adjusted.

The basic idea is that when the stove top heats up, the temperature sensor sends a signal either directly to the light, or to a control board. This causes the light to come on, and stay on as long as the stove top is above a certain temperature.  When the stove top cools down, the signal is no longer sent, and the light goes out.


3rd white wire in electrical outlet with different power source?

Any idea why this outlet would be wired this way?

Because someone before you didn't follow basic electrical practices. Was this wire connected to anything when you opened the box?  Was this a standard duplex outlet? The only situation I would think of is if the outlet was wired with one half to one white wire, and one half to the other white and sharing the black - but that would be horrible.

Label the that wire with something obvious and the number of the odd breaker and put a wire nut on it.  Replace your outlet and secure the outlet (but don't fully button up the box yet)

Turn on the power to the outlet breakers and check to see everything works.  Then turn on power to the other line, and test everything in the house.  If something isn't working, you'll have to start investigating the rats nest of wire in the walls/ceiling/floor and try to determine how it should have been done originally.

Hopefully, everything works with it capped and you can secure the box and go on your happy way.  When you rip out the walls for some reason, plan to have someone rewire as needed.  Who knows what else is messed up.


This is called VCT, Vinyl Composition tile.  It's normally installed with adhesive and maintained with various cleaners and polishes.  It's very common in commercial installations.


Sounds like the anode rod in your water heater needs to be replaced.

Possibly with an aluminum/zinc alloy rod instead of magnesium or aluminum.
This is the chepest fix.

Many claim the an all plastic water heater (e.g Rheem's Marathon) cures this problem since it doesn't have the anode rod that metal water heaters have.


ON Electrical Code: 240V line from panel to exterior (fused / nonfused subpanel) for AC

12 gauge wire is sufficient up to 20 amps.
240v (except for stove and dryer) needs 2 conductors and a ground (no neutral), so 12/2 should do it. The black and white will be the two legs, then the ground.
You must have a disconnect at the unit. Run your line from the breaker box to the disconnect. If the line is inside an attic or wall or under the house it is considered “protected”. I ran mine under the house,stapled to the underside of the floor joists. At the disconnectI drilled a hole through the outer floor joists the outside. I drilled the hole large enough to accommodate 1/ inch rigid conduit through the hole to the outside, and rigid conduit up to the disconnect. I haven’t gotten past this point, but some sort of whip will run from the disconnect to the unit.


As Isherwood said super glue is a great option if you have the whole piece to put back in place. If the piece is lost or doesn't completely fit you may want to consider replacing a segment of the countertop.

When retailers make cuts from countertop materials there is often small pieces left over. Ask at your local hardware provider or better yet at the location you purchased your countertops. With a steady hand you can cut a straight line in the least visible area and replace the entire area.


Can I replace the main breaker in an electrical panel with a smaller one?

You will also likely need to replace the cable with larger gauge wires, though without knowing what's there right now it's impossible to say for sure.  Also, whenever you replace old electrical equipment, you are generally required to adhere to the latest code, so it's possible there are other changes you will need to make too.  This might include AFCI breakers.

If you are unsure, always best to check with a licensed electrician.


Is Behr primer compatible with Sherwin Williams paint?

The brand name on the can doesn't really matter, as long as the products are compatible. Read the labels, if your paint says that it cleans up with soap and water you should be able to use it over any type of primer.


How would I go about adding more receptacles to a garage?

Step one - determine (or tell us) if these are all one circuit (and are there garage lights other than the opener and your bench lights, and are those on the same circuit as any/all the outlets, or not?)

Step two - there are rules of thumb, though they can be adapted to actual use-cases, such as your low-draw LED lights. Following them won't keep things happy if too many heavy-duty things are all running at once. Exceeding them won't make the circuit blow if 27 outlets each have a 10 watt LED light plugged in. 8 (duplex) receptacles on a 15 amp and 10 on a 20 amp circuit is one such RoT - I've also seen 7 suggested. As such your plan to add 4 duplex would fit within nearly every RoT on a 20 amp circuit with 3 outlets now. Also, you are running the same stuff now on the same circuit without trouble, which is a good sign, until you add more stuff running at the same time, or open the garage door while running a power saw and sprinkling the lawn.

If you have a panel/sub-panel in the garage, running a new circuit is probably worthwhile - if it needs to come from the house main panel, that may be more work and expense than you want to go to for a setup that works now from extension cords.

The wires for your outlets would run from the LOAD side of the GFCI (there may already be wires connected there if it's all one circuit in the garage) and then run to the first outlet, from the first to the second, etc.


how to attach framing to this window in concrete?

Using treated lumber, you can attach the framing using a combination of suitable adhesive and concrete anchors like tapcons.

Consider, though, whether you'll have moisture issues between your plywood (or finished surface) and the concrete. How do you plan to seal and insulate, or do you?


How can I trim out the gap along a new exterior door with a smaller rough opening?

I agree with S Rura.  The only way to do this without messing with the siding is to install a nice trim or brickmold.  You will need to install a plywood filler to match the depth from your rough framing to the siding level.  Caulk all the seams. Then install some ripped(if necessary) brickmold or other flat trim like painted pine, MDF, or PVC. Then caulk the seams around the door and J-channel again.  It will look great. On the inside, just extend the drywall, tape and mud, then install the trim of your choice.


Staying electric code compliant while cleaning up in-wall network box

That power strip in there won't do.  Power strips are intended for temporary wiring, not as a substitute for the permanent wiring of a structure.  Behind your TV for 20 years is one thing, inside a cabinet like this - no go.

Also, blue masking tape is not a legal cover for box holes.

If it's what I think it is, that blue-tape area has cutouts for another duplex receptacle... you can lick both problems by fitting a receptacle there.


How to fix a self-turning handle on a Price-Pfister single handled faucet

Pfister is so aware of this problem they have a video on the problem http://www.pfisterfaucets.com/about/falling_handle.aspx

Turns out they made a faucets with heavy metal handles but cheap plastic internal parts... after a few years they fail.  I called up customer service, identified myself as an original owner, gave an approximate date of purchase, and was sent new parts.

They sent me a new metal nut, Pfister part 941-7110 . Then, they sent a new chromed plastic handle that has less mass.


How do I cut Semi-Rigid Aluminium Ducting?

Leather gloves and safety glasses.
Wide rubber band wrapped around the duct at the position you want to cut (a wide band stays in position better than a narrow one).  Leave a little extra to allow for smoothing out any irregularities at the end.
Permanent marker to mark the line you'll be cutting along.
Hacksaw to start the cut.  With the line marked, it's easier to keep the cut square, but you could also use a pair of tin snips to complete the cut.
File to smooth out the cut end and make it square if you've got any irregularities.


Is it safe to pull CAT6 via old POTS line?

Those POTS line look like CAT-5   Look on the cable jacket.  If so you can re-terminate the ends and be fine with them.  The whole thing looks too new to be the original old-style CAT-3 "voice line" or the even older 4 wire bellcore CAT-nothing wire.


Dishwasher causes terrible smell in disposal - why?

For some reason when the dishwasher pumps into the disposer, it is foiling the water table in the p-trap allowing odors to pass.  If you haven't already replace the mechanical vent.  My money is on that.


Recommendations for drilling a lot of small holes in various plastics (ABS/PVC/Acryl)

The scope of your project requires an equally large scope of preparation. Swap out the ladder for a scaffold system. Replace the hand drill with, at a minimum, a drill jig to keep alignment while you drill. Use drill bits designed for drilling plastic to prevent cracking. Your emphasis on avoiding splintering/cracking increases the importance of proper drill bits. Using such a small diameter drill bit also increases the chance of snapping a bit in the hole. With a combination of scaffolds, a drill jig and proper bits, you may be able to accomplish your goal.

You suggest that the holes need not be perfectly straight, but a jig will enable you to drill in a safe manner to avoid snapping a bit.

A quote from a plastics web site:

  Plexiglass, Lexan, Plastic Drill Bits These are the bits you need for drilling Plexiglass, Lexan polycarbonate, PETG, and other clear
  plastics. The special tip design carves through the plastic (not for
  use with wood or metal).

  It takes a special drill bit to properly drill through Plexiglas,
  Lucite, Acrylite, or Perspex acrylic sheet. Ideal for Lexan, Tuffak or
  Makrolon polycarbonate sheet. Special 60 degree angle. Not recommended
  for wood or metal.

  These are specially ground flukes with a 90° point for drilling holes
  in acrylic plastics including, Plexiglas®, Lucite® and Acrylite®
  materials. Metal drill bits will not work as they are made to bite
  into the metal as they are pushed into it. If they are used on
  acrylics they will chip and cause other damage to the plastic.

  When drilling holes for screws, you must make the hole larger than the
  screw itself to allow for expansion and contraction of the material.
  If not you will cause stress cracks at the hole and they will spread!
  Always have a backer board behind the plastic sheet - most problems
  happen when you punch through the back side. The design of these bits
  helps prevent that!

Bits for cutting plastic have a shallower angle to the tip as well as less aggressive cutting edges. The one in the photo below shows it is nearly a scraping edge rather than a cutting edge:


Should window well for basement window be attached to the house?

According to 2012 International Residential Code (IRC), there should be adequate drainage in the bottom of the well. So if it's installed to meet this code, then you shouldn't have any problems with the well flooding. The 2009 version of IRC didn't seem to have this bit of code (at least not that I found), so if your area hasn't adopted 2012 IRC you might have a problem.

International Residential Code 2012
Chapter 3 Building and Planning
Section 310 Emergency Escape and Rescue Openings
R310.2 Window wells.
R310.2.2 Drainage. Window wells shall be designed for proper drainage by connecting to the building’s foundation drainage system required by Section R405.1 or by an approved alternative method.

If they didn't install proper drainage, I'm not sure how it passed inspection (other than not being inspected). I might contact the company that installed the wells, and try to get them to install proper drainage, or figure out if they installed an alternative drainage method.
Aside from that, you could install drainage yourself, or keep a submersible pump on hand and at the ready.


No, this is not normal and dangerous. I suggest that you hire an electrician or least favorable option (ground is like crazy science to regular person and there are a lot of gotcha ya), do your own research. It looks like there is insufficient grounding and your heater or some other appliance has a ground fault. All of the electrical circuits and appliances must be grounded and all metallic piping must be bonded.


Can I use a junction box where a sub-panel feeder will exit my house?

Even better don't run ANY wire yet.
Just run the conduit now. Add the wire later, once you figure out exactly what you need. Just make sure the conduit is big enough. You'll need 3 wires if you use metal conduit (hot/hot/neutral), 4 wires (hot/hot/neutral/ground) if you use PVC. There is some downsizing permitted for ground and possibly neutral. If you go with 1" EMT then you are OK for 3 x 3 AWG copper for 100A. If you go with 1-1/4" EMT then you could use 3 x 1 AWG aluminum for 100A.
As far the actual junction box question: You can certainly have junction boxes in between sections of conduit, and switch between wire types. You can also have (but probably doesn't make sense here) cable inside without conduit and transition to wires inside conduit for the outside run, or conduit inside with wires and transition to direct-bury for the outside.


I'll tell you what I did with my deck and it worked great... The product name is Copper Green-Brown

Copper-Green    1 gal. Wood Preservative
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Copper-Green-1-gal-Wood-Preservative-221832/300502828

I just retreat it every 3 years ( no stripping needed ) and it looks fantastic. Very simple solution


How can I repair a flexible hot water supply hose that is leaking at the nut?

In this case, a gasket in the hose is likely degraded. Replace the entire hose with a new one. For this particular fitting, PTFE (plumbing) tape should not be used, and perhaps could be causing the leaking if it is preventing the hose from seating properly.


What happens if you wire a four-prong dryer cord backwards?

Assuming you are asking about US residential biphase 240 volt wiring (or equivelant), then there is nothing wrong with reversing the black and red wires.


What bit should I use to drill a two inch hole in a solid concrete wall?

Hire a core driller.   Trust me and do it.  You will regret doing this yourself and the cost will seem like nothing in comparison to your struggles with drilling a hole that size in solid concrete.

probably cost you 200 bucks.

You can rent one from a tool rental company, or even from home depot....  https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Small-Core-Drill/3510639/index.html

But trust me, as someone who has do this five or six times a year, just hire someone for this job.  By the time I calculate all the time and cost of renting a drill rig and diamond bit and figuring out how to use it and then returning it .... its never cheaper.


If you are on a city or town water supply, ask the water authority as to why your pressure is that low and what steps they can take to increase the pressure.Has the water supply pressure always been this low? A 12 volt pump probably will not supply enough volume from the existing supply line for a residence unless you were to add a storage tank to pump fron.


Cold patch asphalt repair can be packed into holes and stands up well for standard car/truck use. If the hole is really deep you can pack crushed rock to fill the hole and save some $. I would not use pea gravel to fill the deeper holes as it never locks together like crushed rock. After filling and adding the patch material I like to run over it with my truck to pack it then if needed add a little more until the patch is even with the original level.


My first question is why are you planning on spraying trim in a completed house? (windows, door trim, base boards, crowns) I could understand maybe spraying out trim in new construction before the  finished floors are installed and walls are not painted yet. You are going to have to cover everything including the furniture! Every edge is going to have to be taped and all hardware has to come off or get masked The second item that comes to mind is that you will have to use a bunch of Flowtrol to shoot a semi-gloss paint thru a 211 tip. You may also want to back brush to get an even finish and avoid "orange peel".  I really think it would be faster and easier to use a good Purdy sash brush and paint your trim the old fashion way, one stroke at a time.


Is it reasonable to create a 30amp branch circuit for the purpose of feeding the panel from a generator?

NO.

What you are describing could potentially kill the folks that are trying to help restore power to your home.  You're also creating a situation where you could easily overload your generator.

To do this the right way, you'll need to install a transfer switch. Transfer switches allow you to switch between two source of electricity, while mitigating any hazards associated with using a secondary source of power.

The transfer switch will be wired in such a way, that backfeeding and/or overloading the generator will be prevented (without a lengthy start up procedure). Once the transfer switch is installed, you'll simply have to...

Connect the generator to the inlet in the garage.
Start the generator.
Flip the switch(es) at the transfer to the GEN position.


No, and the dead giveaway is the colors of wire on the former compressor.
Red and black are colors used for low voltage wiring on vehicles.  Black is the normal current return path.  And because vehicle 12V/24V is not particularly dangerous, they just use the vehicle chassis as the current return path.   There is no safety ground on vehicle wiring. The thing you call "ground" is in fact the current return (negative usually).
Black and white are colors used in AC "mains" 120V power.  Black is "hot" and white is "neutral".  Neutral is a concept new to you: It is the normal current return path, but it is separately wired, insulated, and treated same as a hot conductor. Because 120V is dangerous.
Then there's a totally separate safety ground, which handles ONLY fault currents.  Nothing should ever be electrically connected to this; it only handles current during emergencies.
So because of the way the term "ground" is used in different environments, you got different things confused.
However, the big mistake was connecting a 12V or 24V compressor to 120V and expecting the electricity elves to take care of making that work.
That compressor is fried.  It's a goner.


What options are available to hide a TV in the bedroom?

This is how I solved exactly the same problem in my bedroom:


A light fixture with 2 white, 2 black wires, 1 copper. How do I connect this light fixture to a ceiling junction box? (See drawn diagram)

The easy answer is "Hook it up just like the previous light was hooked up", but I'm assuming that you didn't keep track of the original configuration.

To make it work again, connect both of the lamp white wires to the white wire coming from the circuit breaker panel.

Then connect the black wire from the panel to the black wire leading to the switch.

Then connect the white wire from the switch to both black wires of the lamp.

Then, make sure you mark both ends of that white wire with black (tape, pen, paint, etc) to show that it's a switched hot so someone doesn't confuse it with a neutral some day.


What is the name of the metallic part in this image? (some sort of a brace for vertically connecting wooden blocks around the corner?)

The "Big Blue Store" calls it a Double 90-degree angle.


Pull up the old toilet, finish the tiling job, and drop in the new toilet. Anything else is going to leave you with a hack job that will eat away at your satisfaction in having your own home every time you turn around to flush.

Finishing the tiling job may turn out to be dead simple if matching tile is available. This is not likely, though, as anyone too lazy to pull the toilet when tiling a bathroom was probably also too cheap to buy tile from a reputable open stock.

So -- find some tile that co-ordinates with the existing floor. For example, if your tile has a pattern, pick up one of the pattern colors with a solid color. Or, you might like the effect of a solid color matching the new toilet.

Pull the old toilet. Enlarge the hole in the tile to a neat shape and fill it in with new tile. Make the replacement area just large enough to look like an expensive decorating consultant did it on purpose. Of course you might need a flange extender when installing the new toilet.

Now, to really finish off the look, find some other feature in the bathroom that can be highlighted in the same way. For example, you might re-color the area where you stand at the sink. Or, you could call out the door sweep area.

Save the removed tiles as well as any unused new tiles for future repair needs.

Is anyone in your family artistic and crafty? Use a combination of removed tiles and new tiles to decorate a tissue box.


How might I discharge a sump pump, furnace condensate line, and water softener to a single floor drain?

Is it possible to run the softener hose and furnace hose over to the sump pump? I am assuming you have a furnace distillate pup already.

If it is, perhaps you can discharge them there into the sump pump pipe itself, or BETTER snake another pipe down inside that pipe to the drain.

You may have to get creative drilling a hole into the end cap so the smaller pipe is a tight fit and glue it together so it is water tight.

You do not have to go all the way with the concentric pipe though if there is a decent slope on the existing pipe, but since the outlet is so close to the top of the floor drain, I doubt there is.


Does PEX leach BPA when used for hot water plumbing?

If it's labeled for potable water, then it (technically) meets all regulations. Whether those regulations allow for a certain amount of BPA is what you'd want to check.

That said, one should not be ingesting hot water out of the tap. I'm less worried about the pipes and more worried about who-knows-what leaching/growing in the hot water tank. Hot water is for cleaning. Use cold water for all drinking and cooking.


Having larger wire is ok by changing to a smaller breaker you are protecting the coffee maker, this is fine in code just make sure the new outlet is rated for aluminum wire.


Can I install 125 AMP rated sub-panel when the need is 60 AMPS

Please install a bigger box!!!

Your box definitely should exceed minimums in this area: Number of spaces.   Listen, there's always a future project, there's always another load.   The out-of-pocket cost for a larger panel is very small (especially when you consider other factors, as we're about to).  But the regrets and unnecessary expense when you run out of spaces is a rather expensive affair.

As such we very strongly recommend you wildly oversize your panels.  You need 8 spaces? Consider nothing less than 24 spaces.  All of our panels here have plenty of extra space (except an 8-space Pushmatic that's a nightmare) and that's the way we like it.  I myself would go 30-space.

I mean "space" not "circuit" - you see a lot of 20 space/40 circuit panels - that's only a 20-space.

You wouldn't drive 85 mph on 85 mph-rated tires, would you?

Suppose you lived in Nevada where posted limits are 80 mph. Yeah, you'll want the 115 or 130 mph tires I think :)

The same applies to service panel amp ratings.  You wouldn't run 60A on a 60A box, would you?  Of course not, you want some safety headroom.  So 125A or even 200A is perfectly reasonable.  It's a "limit" thing, not a "mandatory match" thing.

This also ties into the "spaces" problem because I gather you were feeling stifled with only 8 spaces.  As well you should!  You are at liberty to get as large a panel as you want.

You need a main breaker there!

To be more precise, you need a main disconnect switch.  But the cheapest most practical way to get that is to use a box with a main breaker.

Now I happen to know none of the 8-space panels on the market include a main breaker. So setting up one of those "straight" would be a code violation.  If there are 6 or fewer throws, "no main breaker" can be legal, but never with 8.

You might skate by the "Rule of Six" if two of your breakers are 2-pole. However that "paints you into a corner" of being unable to add a seventh throw in the future.  And you know you will!

Voltage drop - yikes

Obviously, voltage drop will be a big problem.  At 2 AWG wire and 48A draw (figuring for 80% of your 60A breaker that you seem happy with), your voltage drop will be 7.04%, which is high even by my standards.

That would not be acceptable in Canada or in a Tim Horton's restaurant.  In Canada you'd be required to use 4/0 AL wire, which is ridiculous in my opinion, eh?

I haven't priced 600' of that stuff but I'm sure I will not like the price.

By the way, if you aren't in Canada, you are allowed to breaker the feed breaker for whatever the wire limits are, e.g. 90A for #2 aluminum.

Transformers!

Like I say, I haven't priced the fat wire, but it may be worth looking at transformers for the long haul.   The wire is good for 600V (and 600V transformers are readily available in Canada), but around the States 480V is more likely to be findable cheap used.  If you're buying new transformers then price 600V.

In this case, you use 2 transformers back to back, 480V-jumpered primaries facing each other.  This steps up the transmission voltage to 480V.  Now, the wire gets a lot thinner (for the same voltage drop).

If you do it Canada-style, holding voltage drop to a firm 3% at 80% of rated current, then #4 aluminum will suffice, eh? From 4/0 down to #4, that's the power of transformers for 'ya!  If you don't mind that 7% drop from your original proposal, are you sitting down?  #8 aluminum or #10 copper gets it home.

So transformers let you drop 6-8 numerical sizes. More if they are 600V transformers.

However, I would recommend #6 aluminum at that point, giving a very acceptable 4.29% drop at 48A practical draw (80% of breaker trip).

You probably won't push the wire to its thermal limits.  The reason is the transformers are a limiting factor also.  I'm imagining you get 15 KVA transformers which will limit you to 60A@240V total throughput and you'd have to breaker for that at the supply side to protect the transformer.  You might get a better deal on used 25 KVA transformers, which would let you got 100A @ 240V.  If that's the plan, a bump to #4 Al wire might be called for.

Obviously transformers are not free, but they make the wire a lot thinner, so you have to crunch the numbers and see what you get.


ceiling fan install red wire /white wire

Red is usually used for "switched hot". Black is typically for the hot side, and white is for neutral. I would expect you to wire black to black, white to white, and bare/green to bare/green. Then you'd control the ceiling fan with the remote, NOT the switch.


Best way to remove anchors from concrete?

Most anchors don't come out of concrete.  You have two choices.  If you need to keep the look (little chipping) hit it with an angle grinder plus diamond blade.  If you are putting something over these, hammer and sharp chisel works really fast.


How to stop water seaping inbetween concrete slabs

Yes, most likely that is water pressure causing it. Ideally, you'd install a drain tile system with sump pump to pump the water elsewhere, essentially redirecting the water. That is a very labor intensive and expensive task to complete, due to the labor involved. It does work very well, though.

I've seen people get away with sealing the joint well with something like Sikaflex. The issue there is you're simply impeding the pressure being relieved. It will either find another spot to relieve pressure (and hopefully not inside your office), or will push it's way through whatever sealant you use.


Can I have a washer, electric dryer, oil tank, and oil burner all in the same room?

Unless you have a written local amendment disallowing it there is no reason this would be unsafe or prohibited. I have seen and worked on many, many basements that fit this exact description.

My only concern would be keeping the area clear of lint from the dryer.


If the fan doesn't have a pull string to control the speed, you can replace the switch on the wall with a fan speed control.  This is just like a dimmer switch, but the electronics are slightly different to work with a fan motor rather than a light bulb.


How long does concrete need to cure before applying self leveling compound?

You still need to follow the instructions for the SLC - most (IIRC) say 30 days minimum cure (for the underlying concrete.)
Be sure to keep it damp so it can actually cure. If it dries out, it stops curing, and that's a very likely thing with a thin pour over an existing slab that will want to suck water out of it.


What should I do about my rendering & damp-proof course?

A drop of 150mm would work best if you did it in the summer so that the bricks below the DPC could dry out a bit.  If you did it mid winter and another big freeze happened then these bricks could be subject to freezing and surface cracking / erosion.  In general - if you do drop the garden by 150mm the bricks below the DPC would benefit from some form of localized rain and wind protection because of the age of the building.

If the garden slopes toward the building or the water table is quite high in your area it would be essential to make sure that any moisture in the garden is diverted away from the building via good drainage such as a French Drain.

There are one or two ways in my experience to tidy up the brickwork below the DPC :

1 : brick slips (slices of new brick) on a fascia with an inch or so of breathing space behind it could be painted to match the building without permanently affecting or altering the original bricks below the DPC.  This would still need a bit of venting.

2 : wooden skirting, a bit like an external skirting board (in period with the building) painted to match might be cheaper and easier to install.


Can I cut up sheets of cement board and use it as wall shingles?

Cement board and fibercement siding (such as that from GAF or Hardie) are very different things. I'd never have considered cement board as an exterior product, especially in a climate with severe freeze/thaw cycles. I'd expect it to simply disintegrate as it'll absorb moisture readily.

Also, to cut that into siding shingles would be a monumental task, generating huge amounts of carcinogenic dust and burning through a good heap of blades.


Kenmore washer spin cycle drains but doesn't rotate

I fix my own stuff, but don't know about your washer. However, a quick search revealed this to be a common problem & I ran across an old blog that matched your symptoms perfectly. Kenmore washer won't spin out all water from clothes.

Although, the parts involved in resolving the multiple problems, appear to total more than $300 for the parts alone. You can call a local Appliance Repairer for their estimate for the typical course of action for this common problem. But, based on just parts cost I'd suggest getting a new washer with a new warranty.


Heating basement floor with water heater

Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.

This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com

The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.

Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.

The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.

Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com

This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.


Fan switch not working ever since my husband fell against the wall/switches- should I replace the 3 gang box?

It's highly unlikely that the box itself is broken and causing this problem.

What you should do next is remove everything from the box (label the wires first). Also remove each wire nut and put it back on, one at a time. In doing this, you may find a loose connection or wire nut. If not, then inspect each wire to make sure the plastic covering is intact. If you find anything broken, you might be able to shorten the wire past the break. Now put everything back together.

If it still doesn't work, it's time to call a professional.


How to open a door that has the insides of a door handle inside without a door knob

See the lock insides? That's a metal sleeve, with an inside sliding piece. That inside sliding piece is connected to the latch bolt. Push it to the left, and voila!

Some additional details. This is what you see when you remove the knobs, shaft and escutcheons from a knob set. The central shaft, which is has a flat, vertical cross-section, goes through that D-shaped hole. Turn a knob either way, and the top or bottom edge of the bar pushes against that sliding piece to open the latch. (Hence bib's suggestion of using a large screwdriver to act as that shaft.)

I believe the smaller hole on the right is for a lock. Push a button on the (interior?) escutcheon and a round shaft is pushed into that hole, preventing the sliding piece from sliding. Low-tech, but quite functional.


If your base is solid the bricks will be fine in both places. With that said I have done this and after several years of parking my heavy work van in the same area there was a noticeable indent along the tire path. I had ~4" of crushed rock or shale and then maybe 1/2" of sand, I put the holes up and seeded with drought resistant grass in them (I saw the idea in a magazine for more green spaces). I thought it looked nice but in the summer I had to water my driveway to keep it green.


Why does electricity turn on and off in one part of my house?

If you can find a breaker that controls all the same lights and outlets this would be helpful. If it is just 1 breaker most likely it is a bad hot connection. usually in a junction box at an outlet or light switch but it could be the hot wire that connects to the breaker, very unusual for a breaker to do this but it could be the problem also. Find the breaker and see if some areas turn off that were on when the power goes away that will help narrow down where the problem is.
It could be the neutral wire also but I have less problems with these and am not sure why as they normally carry the same current. If you find 1 breaker and additional lights or outlets turn off when you turn the breaker off go to the last working outlet and check the connections there (with the power off) if those are good go to the first non working outlet and check there.
If everything is the same when turning the breaker off as the power fail, you will need to remove the dead face of the breaker panel and verify the wire on the breaker is tight, follow the wire back to where it enters the box with a white wire and follow that to the neutral buss and make sure that is tight.
the last thing would be to try and replace the breaker looking at the tab to make sure it has not arced and burned the tab the breaker connects to.


Okay to remove light switch and cap wires?

There is nothing unsafe but may be a local fire code issue. I recently checked on my areas local code as I was asked to remove 4 bedroom switches and a living room area, similar to what you want.

The person I talked to said if the remote is not over the switch they can toggle the switch for a couple seconds and the lights respond. Although it is not a law yet the person I talked to said they are trying to get the required switch mandated to be hardwired and the “legal issue” will be based on the date the house was built.
Low voltage remote switches will be allowed as long as hardwired.

There justification is the person in need of care had the remote and first responders could not activate the lights. She said responders getting injured on several occasions and the possibility that some patients have died because of delays due to darkness and tripping in the dark while responding.

She said today a switch is not fully defined for safety reasons and they are working on making hardwired a law. But at this time they recommend the type that located the new remote over the switch in the on position that if the remote is out the switch handle can be toggled.

After talking to the owner they decided to not remove the switches, however today it would not be in violation of former or electrical code.


Max amperage for “neutral tie strap” in daisy chained Siemens panel

The bonding strap will be fine for as long as the breaker on the live side feeding the current needs to trip (unless otherwise specified in the documentation of the panel).
To connect higher gauge wires that are too large for the neutral bar holes you can use a neutral lug which is a little metal block that screws into one of the neutral bar screw holes and provides a place to land the larger wire. And yes it's better to put that block on the same bar that the neutral lands on.
Also when installing a subpanel always go for more spaces than you think you will need. The small premium you are paying now will be much less than the cost of yet another subpanel in the future. As long as the wires feeding the subpanel are appropriately fused the rating of the main breaker in the subpanel doesn't matter.


How do I get rid of the sulphur smell from cold water only in one sink?

To further diagnose this, get a glass and fill it with cold water, then smell it away from the sink, if it stinks, you most likely have an anaerobic bacteria colony in the piping near that particular sink. It smells like sulfur.  I've had that problem in my house (well water) repeatedly.  I finally think I got it all and haven't had the problem in a few years now.
The fix is bleach.  It doesn't need to be full strength, about 20% solution (1 part bleach 4 parts water). I bought a small pump and a new trash can for the purpose.   Fill the clean, new trash can about 1/3 full and put in a gallon of bleach. Then turn off the water to the house. connect the pump to an outdoor hose bib, You'll likely need a female-female hose adapter.  Then turn on the pump and run cold water until you can smell bleach. Then turn the pump off and let the bleach solution set for a few hours. Since you have only one sink affected, I wouldn't bother with other fixtures, but that's up to you.
After a few hours, turn the water back on for the house and run the cold water. Don't be surprised if you see a bunch of heavily discolored, even black, water come out of the tap. In extreme cases you might have to remove and clean the aerator. If you get heavily discolored water, that's confirmation that you had anaerobic bacteria colony.
Let the water run until it clears up and you don't smell bleach anymore.   You might get a bit of bleach smell for a few days, but it will go away.
Don't run any hot water when doing this because you'll pull the bleach solution in the HW tank and it takes forever for it to flush out (don't ask me how I know this).
A few caveats:  If your hose bib has any sort of backflow prevention this setup won't work and you'll have to find some other way of introducing the bleach solution into your plumbing.
When turning on the water again, just to be safe, run all the cold water taps at some time in case the bleach solution went to some of the branch lines.
Again, don't run any hot water taps during this process.
If you have a hot water recirc pump, turn it off.  They don't like being without pressure.
Also, this is just a guess on my part on what's causing your problem, but it sure sounds a lot like what I experienced. If you aren't comfortable doing the above procedure, you should probably get a plumber to help.


Should the hammer function "feel" different from normal drilling function on a hammer drill?

Combination Drill Motors
In most combination drill motors, the hammer mechanism works similarly to this.

In this case, the lower jagged bit is fixed, and the upper portion rotates with the shaft. As the shaft rotates, the two plates slide against each other. The jagged edges cause the upper portion to tension a spring, storing potential energy.  As they slide further, the energy in the spring is released, and the weighted shaft is driven forward (down in this illustration).  This allows the tool to deliver many beats per minute, but reduces the force delivered in each beat.
This system allows the hammer mechanism to take up less space, but the limited hammer travel and weight, reduce the force delivered to the shaft.  Which is why a combination drill motor will likely never fully replace hammer drills.
Hammer Drills
In a hammer drill, the hammer mechanism is almost always separate from the rotation mechanism. This allows the weight; or hammer, to be driven independently of the rotating shaft.  As the shaft rotates, the weight will be driven into the end of the shaft, producing a linear force along the shaft.
This system will produce less beats per minute than a combination device, but will exert much more force per beat.
Feel the Beat
Because the hammer mechanism in a combination drill motor may have a very high frequency (beats per minute), and lower force per beat, the hammering action may be less noticeable.  You'll also find that while the drill is spinning freely (not pressed against a surface), the hammer action is not engaged at all.
So to answer your question directly. Yes, it is possible to not really notice a difference between the hammer and non-hammer settings when using a combination drill motor.  However, if you can't feel the hammering, the surface you're drilling probably won't either. Not all hammer mechanisms are created equal. Higher quality tools will almost always, have higher quality hammering mechanisms.


How do I connect a chandelier to this ceiling wiring?

You would need to test to verify, but it looks like the black is a constant hot  with the red being the switch leg.

So to connect a chandelier you'd use the red (hot), white (neutral) and ground.


What materials do we need to run gas line to laundry room?

My last house had gas plumbing where the homeowner ran a new line from the water heater line to the laundry room. It was red-tagged as unsafe.

I strongly recommend that you hire out this job; it's one of those "if you have to ask, you shouldn't be doing it" situations. Gas plumbing isn't one of those things that you can mess up and then fix later without any danger or problems.


First, your question

  how do I calculate what that new beam has to be given the existing joists and the desired post options?

This is a bit long winded, but it is how we figure it out accurately.

Figure out a design load per square foot (PSF), we typically use 40 PSF live load and 10 PSF dead load for floors and decks. In a simple span, the beam carries the load halfway to the next support or tributary width; in this case 5'.  Multiply the PSF x the tributary width to get the pounds per lineal foot (PLF) on the beam, in this case 50 PSF x 5 Ft = 250 PLF.  Then, using software or load tables find a beam that can carry that load based on the span of the beam; allowable loads reduce as the span increases.  In your case this requires (3) 2x10 DF #2.

I typically use Forte for beam sizing instead of load tables.

For the post sizes, calculate the tributary load which, in simple spans, is the load halfway between supports.  In your case, this would be half the beam length between post multiplied by PLF.  For your center post that is 250 PLF x 11.5 FT = 2875 LB.  Then, using load tables or calculations find a post that can support that load based on height and bracing of the column.  Take into account bearing area of the 2x10 at about 625 PSI perpendicular to the grain for a required bearing area of 4.6 Sq. In.  In your case a 4x4 is plenty.

Try a column load calculator here

For multiple span beams, cantilevers, and anything outside of "simple span" things are a little different.  For this reason I typically use the beam sizing program.

If this is too intense, maybe just be guided by the following.

If I read correctly, you have deck joist spanning about 10' and on one end a single 2x10 "beam" or rim joist that the joist hang into that spans approximately 11'-6" between (3) 4x4 post.

Based on this, your deck joist are structurally OK although maxed out at a 40/10 load, but are deflecting (bending) a good amount giving part of the bouncy feel.  You can add 2x6 or larger joist down the middle of the existing joist to firm things up, or just live with a safe bouncy deck.

The 2x10 is definitely undersized and should be addressed.  It also contributes to the bounciness.  The simplest solution to this is to add (2) intermediate post mid span reducing the span of the 2x10 to below 6'.  OR beef up the 2x10 by adding (2) more 2x10's to it nailing 3 16D nails per foot per beam lamination would easily transfer the load between beams.

Finally, the 4x4 post are more than adequate to support a load of 2,875lb.  An 8'-0" length of 4x4 can support over 6,000 lb in wet service.

We applied over 10,000lb to a 7' 4x4 in jacking up a floor with no indication of possible buckling; we were compression limited on the member being jacked.


Need LED lighting suggestions for a hobby spray booth

Here's a good document that briefly explains how LEDs are rated vs other lights like flourescent and incandescent. And here's a website which has high powered LED strips.  You'll have to be the judge as to whether they provide the amount of light you're looking for since LEDs concentrate the light on an area, whereas incandescent shoots it out in a sphere.


How to repair walls which have two layers of wallboard?

I don't believe you have two layers there. I think that's what I had in my previous home, which is what I called hybrid drywall--a layer of 3/8" gypsum panels covered with about the same thickness of conventional plaster. The system was used in the 1950s as a transition between conventional lath-and-plaster and modern drywall.

In my case the gypsum panels were 18" high and had heavily rounded, fully wrapped edges. I really liked it since it was extremely tough from a daily living standpoint but still easy to cut with a keyhole saw, say for new electrical boxes.

I'd fur out your framing and install 1/2" drywall (or 5/8" for better stiffness, or cement board) flush with the original surface. I often used 1/8" hardboard or other furring and 5/8" drywall with good results, since the original wall was about 3/4" thick. It did vary somewhat, as plaster does, so check your thickness carefully. It's better to start slightly behind the original wall than to protrude beyond it and create a bump.

It's a good opportunity to flatten any wonky framing, so use a long straightedge horizontally on your furring to check plane before you install the drywall.


Are my plans for adding a 240 volt circuit reasonable?

The sales info I looked at showed it with a 3 wire plug so it should be ok. Some electronic controlled devices require a neutral and then a 4 wire would be needed but it looks to be straight 240 so your plan should work.  As far as GFCI code specifies 15 & 20 amp circuits so it would not be required but gfci’s around liquid are a good idea.


How to repair leaking blower / air exchanger in attic?

Yes, you can fix it.  First, fix the support for the unit.

The white stuff is a duct sealant.  You can find it at pretty much any big box store in the furnace aisle.  However, rather than messing with that - after you fix the support of the duct work and get it re-aligned, you can seal the gap with aluminum tape.  Not "duct" or "duck" tape - that's not actually meant for ducts.  You want the aluminum foil tape.  Simply apply to completely cover the gap and press down on the tape everywhere with a rubbing motion in order to ensure a good seal.


How can I continue a circuit from a light switch through a light using 12/3 cable?

Looks like posting it here was all I needed to sort this out in my head.

The wiring is a similar idea to wiring two switches to a ceiling fan with a light, using a 12/3 cable. Only here, I've got one switch for the light, and the other hot leg is tied in so that it's always on, not switched.

I pulled a 12/3 cable from the flood light box (wired the same as first picture) to the light switch, and wired it as shown in the second picture, which I'll post again below:

In case my drawing isn't clear, the yellow boxes are wire nuts, and the terminal at the lower left on the switch is the ground. The red wire (hot) is connected to the light.


Switched outlet in my attic - requried by code to not always be hot?

No, there is no requirement that an outlet in the attic be switched.

If there is an attic fan, there is a requirement there be a switch for that, in case someone gets caught in it.  Local code could interpret the fan switch requirement in such a way that if an outlet is placed so that a fan could be plugged into it, then the outlet must be switched.

Naturally for lights, most homeowners would want to be able to turn them off, so there should be a switch for those.

If I were you, I would rewire it so the outlet is always live and the switch only turns on/off the lights.  Who could possibly object to that?


Must the ground wire be continuous from the panel box, through the meter to the grounding rod?

In most circumstances it isn't necessary (or advisable) to go "through the meter", but your exact installation would need to be addressed. The wire should be continuous.
NEC 250.64 Grounding Electrode Conductor Installation (C) Continuous...shall be continuous...If necessary, splices shall be...(1)..irreversible compression-type connectors listed as grounding and bonding equipment or by the exothermic welding process.


Wiggle, wiggle, wiggle wires on Furnace Pressure Switch makes it work -- should I replace Switch?

It could be the connection or the sensor.

If those connectors move a lot when you wiggle them, they may just be loose, and vibrations from the furnace affecting them.  So the first thing I would try is pulling the connectors off and squeezing them a little bit with a pair of pliers, so they dig in a little tighter when you put them back on.  That costs nothing, so its worth a try.


Bandsaw, but still tricky.
Reliable solution would be to throw away half the board (not get two usable pieces from each board) and use a router sled to plane off the wood not used. Router sleds are an amazing tool to have in your list of options, and produce great work.
Traditional blended approach and probably good enough for framing is to cut both sides with a tablesaw as far as it reaches (which might be more than halfway for a 10" belt-driven saw, and you are done) and then finish with a handsaw guided by the tablesaw kerfs to complete the cut.
If attempting this with a hand-held circular saw: A: Don't B: check your insurance coverage and have someone looking on to call 911. That is a bad cut to try and do with a hand-held circular saw, in my experienced opinion.
I also agree with the commenters that there is no way you need a full width beveled top plate. Normal rectangular top plate and (easily made) wedges under each joist will be done before you are done setting up to make the thing you don't need but think you do.


Should fence post height be adjusted to accommodate panel height when on a slope?

When building a fence you need to decide which strategy you'll go with when it comes to slopes:

Skew the panels into parallelograms so they follow the slope ("racking" in this image)
Step the panels down to ground level at the high point for each segment

source
In either case, post height depends on the height of the panel top at the low end. You want the same extension above the higher panel for each post.
My $.02: I find the step-down approach comically goofy-looking for anything more than a mild slope. They end up looking like sails in the wind and quite inelegant. The steps look wrong and the gaps under the low ends can be very large, reducing the intended benefit of having a fence. I'd skew the panels if possible. A smooth line along the top is much nicer.


can you use a pvc pipe cutter to cut waste pipe

Conduit is PVC. You can cut DWV pipe the same way. Be aware that that tool has a maximum diameter of 42 mm. Your shower drain may be larger than that.


Unknown wiring schematic deduction for outlet

You should be just fine as far black/hot vs. white/neutral.
However, you may or may not realize how the GFCI is wired. With an ordinary receptacle, it doesn't matter whether a wire goes to top screw, top backstab, bottom screw or bottom backstab. With GFCI, there are two totally different sets of screws - LINE and LOAD. To avoid problems, the LOAD screws are normally covered with tape to prevent accidental use.
By pigtailing everything together, you have everything on LINE. That is perfectly OK, but it means that any downstream receptacles are not protected. If you expect (or want) downstream receptacles to be protected, then a little more work is needed.


I see where you took the 2 blacks that had been on the same terminal of the old switch, and joined them with a wire nut.   Good instincts.

Now, as you observed, the cables coming into the box had exactly the same color scheme- 1 black 1 white 1 bare.  That is how cables are made. The colors indicate nothing about the purpose/function of the wire, however white must be used for neutral if neutral is present.  So there's that.   If you want color coding by function, you must re-mark the wires e.g. With colored tape.  That is exactly what I want you to do.

Take the remaining solo wire and mark it with red electrical tape.  I like red for switched-hot, and so does everyone else including your switch.

As it happens, the blacks and whites are color coded correctly (black=always-hot).

Now, they're color coded.  Match 'em up EXCEPT STOP.  DO NOT HOOK UP RED.

Now, see if the switch will power up.  If it does, then shut off power again and hook up red; you're done.

Now, we are all assuming the usual situation, where supply comes in on one cable, and always-on power is carried onward down another cable.   Given you have at least 5 lights here, it's possible that 2 strings of lights branch from the switch, and we have it all backwards.  In that case, the solo black is supply, and the two blacks together are to-the-lamp and ought to be red.  In that case, hooking the switch black to the solo black will make it power up.  Then mark the other two blacks red and onward!


What should I keep in mind for attic storage solutions for a small home with 14" rafter spacing?

The attic needs to be able to breath to reduce the heat buildup during the summer and prevent condensation and ice dams in the winter. So don't do anything that would block the air flow from the soffit to ridge vent, and don't place anything in direct contact with the roof. The result is that the rafters shouldn't have any storage items installed between them.

The next concern is floor load. If the attic wasn't originally installed with a floor, it's very possible it's not designed to support the load from a lot of storage. If you ignore this concern, I would make an effort to find any load bearing walls below and build the shelves directly on top of those.

For lighting, my preference is for a single bulb to light the attic space and then use a headlamp to look into the various crevices. But then I'm not up there often enough to make a more permanent solution worthwhile.

One last note, make sure any items you do store up there are capable of enduring the temperature and humidity swings, don't have batteries in them, etc.


Run a new cable with more wires.  Then at the air handler connect them as follows:

Red to Rc
Yellow to Y
Green to G
Blue to C

If there's already a wire attached to the C terminal, don't worry.  Just attach the blue wire from your thermostat cable there as well.  The other wire is likely from the condensing unit outside.  There may also be a wire on the Y terminal, which also likely goes out to the condensing unit.

At the thermostat, connect then wires as follows:

Red to Rc
Yellow to Y
Green to G
Blue to C

You should be all set.


What are the best materials for non-toxic wooden blocks?

I'd recommend something like maple. I've seen wooden toy making demonstrations at craft fairs and they almost all used maple.

As for coloring I'd do a test with some food grade dyes or colorants. You can buy gel and paste colorants from a cake decorating store and they're very vibrant and (obviously) safe to eat.


I'm not sure of the exact formulas as I'm sure they're fairly complex but the John Bridge Deflect-o-meter is a good place to start: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl


How can I warm up my new LED recessed lighting

LED (and other) light bulbs are available in a variety of different color temperatures. Look at the packaging for the bulbs you bought. Are they labelled as "cool white" or "daylight" with a color temperature around 4000K? Just return them and get something labelled "warm white" or "soft white", with a color temperature around 2700-3000K.

While you could potentially alter the light with a gel, there are a couple of potential downsides. First, the added filter will limit air circulation around the bulb, potentially causing it to overheat and fail prematurely. Second, it won't look as good as a stock light. Since the change you're looking for is likely available by simply using a different bulb, I'd suggest you shop around instead.


Wiring lights to a Garbage disposal circuit

EDIT: Since I answered this question, R. Gunas edited the wording to more clearly state that they want to wire lights to the garbage disposal, and not the other way around like I thought. My answer is still applicable though. The garbage disposal still should have its own breaker (as discussed below in my original answer).

It's best to wire the garbage disposal to it's own dedicated circuit. It can be shared with the lights, but the load needs to be calculated to make sure that it can handle the disposal plus the lights. The garbage disposal isn't a constant load, but when it's on you may notice your lights dim. I would recommend not wiring it from the recess lights.

Although not directly required by the NEC, you will probably want the garbage disposal on a GFCI circuit. This can be done with a GFCI breaker, or by installing a GFCI receptacle under the sink and plugging the garbage disposal to it.

The real answer is you need to read the manufacturer's installation instructions and see what they recommend.


Are you sure that the brownish color is not due to some contact grease? It may have come originally from the breaker(s). Try to see if it will wash off with a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol.

Be careful to not scrape the bus bar with any sharp metal tool because the silver colored plating on them is quite thin and you risk exposing the underlying copper.


Extension cord requirement for outdoor string lights

I'd venture it is poor wording by a low cost bottom feeder supplier in China that has no clue what they are talking about...

Assuming by your use of the term "GFCI" that you are in the US or Canada (you didn't identify), to be able to use electrical equipment with 2 wire plugs, they must be "double insulated" and the plug itself must have a tag on it or a moulding in the body of the it that displays this symbol:

If it doesn't have that somewhere on the product, it is undoubtedly not UL listed, so what they tell you about safety is kind of pointless anyway.

All that said, if it IS double insulated and UL listed, then you can plug it into any outlet, whether the outlet is 2 prong or 3 prong, but of course any outdoor outlet must be GFCI protected now and will be 3 prong anyway.


Can primer cover up a smoke smell inside house?

I would scrub the walls with TSP first. Smoker residue can bleed through even Kilz in my experience.


How do I bend EMT conduit to a broader radius?

Using the same hand-bending tools you already have, you can approximate a larger bend radius by leaving short sections of straight conduit in between multiple bends. Below is a picture showing the minimum radius bend you currently achieve with your hand tool (picture on top) and then using three segments of bending coupled with two straight lengths to approximate a larger radius (picture on bottom).

My example in the second picture only shows 5 segments since the picture was made relatively quickly in paint, but the more interspersed bent/straight segments you have, the closer you will get to approximating a true circular radius. However, maybe you don't truly need a semicircle in all cases and just a few segments would do the trick.

Other alternatives I can think of include:

Trying to create your own hand tool for achieving common bends (if you're bending the same larger radius often -- perhaps something like an 18" car rim would work)
Investing thousands in a pipe bender that can handle conduit and do very smooth arbitrary bends.


How to fill and paint over chip in powder coated aluminum chair

This looks like a stress fracture in the powdercoat. So covering it may only temporally fix the problem. Zinc chromate is the best primer for aluminum I would chip the section that is loose and prime (there are some paints that are for aluminum that etch as they are applied so no primer is needed) I would then paint with a matching color, it is possible the crack was from a small area that did not get fully cleaned prior to the powdercoat. You may be able to get a replacement since it is new. I would at least ask and if not prime and paint.


Wintertime and AC line frosted & dripping water in basement?

Temporarily turn off the power to the condensing unit to be certain it's not running at times. You should have a breaker for it in your electrical panel, or a local disconnect box mounted near the condenser itself.

If it's a heat pump the insulated line may freeze for short times normally or if the switchover valve is stuck for longer times.


You could buy 1x5 MDF, its about $2 per foot at the big box store.  It's a similar material as a hollow 6 panel modern door, and is about the same width as the trim in your stock photo.  Then you can replace your classic turn of the century solid old growth timber doors and trim with modern manufactured products.  Another option is repair and paint, give the hinges some oil, and be proud of your home's original style that can no longer be bought!


Controlling 110v swamp cooler using Nest thermostat

Yes, it is easy to control a swamp cooler with any thermostat. The problem is that in order to use a swamp cooler effectively, you need strategic openings (typically open windows) to let the air out. This is the part which is hard to automate. The best way to use a swamp cooler is to open windows in the rooms that need the cooling the most. You want as much windowspace opened as possible without any outdoor air coming back in through the windows. There are some automated devices I've seen (such as UP-DUX that vent into the attic but they cause additional resistance so they are much less effective.

Your drawing has a couple of problems...

You need to use the Rc terminal
The coil on your R8222B1062 needs to connect to the Y2 and the C (not the R)
I don't think you want to connect to the C terminal on the nest because your heating system is already providing the C to power the thermostat.
I think you're right about this one but I wouldn't rely on the thermostat powering Y1 and Y2 simultaneously when it called for high. I would rather to design it so that if the Y1 is not powered but the Y2 was, it would still run on high. This gives you a little more redundancy in case of a relay or wire failure.

Below is a drawing that would fix these problems but it is much more generic, the only specific part is that Packard contact delay because I am unfamiliar with a generic part name for that. If you fix 1 - 3, your design should work flawlessly. Again, the exhaust ventilation is your biggest problem.

I would put a nice 24v DPDT relay and a nice 24v 3PDT relay on the appropriate mounting sockets and mount them to a DIN rail. This will make it easy and clean. Put it all in a box with the transformer and the Packard and voila.


Measure and mark your stud placement on both plates and make sure the studs are on the marks when you nail them.

Generally, I lay the plates next to each other with the ends aligned.  Then mark and strike the line across both simultaneously.  Don't forget to mark which side of the line the stud goes on.