What is the correct wiring (including Ground) for two main load centers plus transfer switch?

Problem #1: Main Service Panel A is overloaded(!!!!!)
Unless, for some reason, you want to try to run a tankless hot water heater, brute that it is, from your generator when the power's out, or faff with load shed boxes for that matter, your tankless water heaters alone are sufficient to overload Main Service Panel A based on the information you've given, as 112A + 75A + 30A = 217A, which is greater than the 200A those busbars can handle, and the "noncoincident load" provision in NEC 220.60 doesn't really apply to a trio of water heaters (imagine having the dishwasher and the clothes washer running while everyone takes showers), nor can we apply NEC 220.82 alternate calculation procedures to the situation as that specific panel is not feeding a whole dwelling unit by itself.
One could upgrade Panel A and the associated wiring to 225A, but that leaves you a mere 8A of spare ampacity on those busbars, which does not admit any of the other large loads you'd want to keep off generator power.  Furthermore, neither your generator nor the Generac SMMs used for load shedding are designed for the sheer amount of brute amperage a tankless water heater requires; moving your 30A heater to the standby panel would be more feasible, but still would leave precious little ampacity on the non-standby panel for other loads.  (The 7000 series SMMs are limited to 50A of resistive load apiece, trying to run multiple modules at the same priority setting is unsupported due to the excessive load transients it could impose on the generator, and partial load shedding/restoration of a tankless HWH would likely create issues as well.)
Problem #2: Where's the service entrance?
Your second problem is that in your current setup, you've tricked yourself.  Normally, for a separate-meter-socket, 2x200A panel setup on a Class 320 service, both panels are indeed service panels with their own service disconnects, neutral-to-ground bonds, and grounding electrode system connections. (These can either be separate grounding electrode conductors to the grounding electrodes themselves, or  taps run from a single master grounding electrode conductor to the main panels; NEC 250.64(D) permits both approaches.)  Furthermore, both panels are installed next to each other in order to group the service disconnects together as per NEC 230.72(A).
However, where you've chosen to put the transfer switch in your current plan throws a wrench into all of this.  Now, the B-side service disconnect, N-G bond, and grounding electrode system connection all move out of the B-side panel into the transfer switch.  This means that your transfer switch needs to be a service entrance rated transfer switch, which adds a bit of cost, and more importantly, forces Panel A to be placed next to the transfer switch in order to comply with NEC 230.72(A).  This can constrain where your service entrance hardware is located, depending on what enclosure type the transfer switch is available in.  (Mounting an outdoor-rated electrical enclosure indoors is legal, but not nice-looking in the context of a finished stud wall.)
This also means that Panel B must be wired as a subpanel of the transfer switch, unless you are using a transfer switch/panel combination for Panel B, that is.  In other words, since the B-side service disconnect is now in the transfer switch, it takes all the other service disconnect trappings with it to the transfer switch, leaving neither bonding screw nor grounding electrode conductor connection in Panel B.  This also means that the connection from the transfer switch to Panel B needs to be a 4-wire feeder with separate neutral and ground wires in it.
Sidebar: Bonding miscellany...
The good news in all of this is that permanently installed light-duty standby generators are nearly always installed with a floating neutral.  While this is mostly a constraint of available transfer hardware, as light-duty fixed-installation automatic transfer switches aren't available with a third switching pole, it does mean your guess as to how the generator is supposed to be bonded and grounded is correct.
The bad news, though, is that if you do use a separate meter socket, you'll have to use PVC conduits from the meter socket to the service disconnect enclosures. This is because using metal conduit at that point in the system would create a parallel path for neutral current between the bonded service disconnect enclosure and the bonded meter socket, violating the NEC 250.6(A) objectionable-grounding-current requirements.
Problem #3: This setup may no longer be Code
The final problem with your proposal is that the current NEC (2020) requires one-family dwellings to have an externally accessible shutoff means for all utility power to the house for use by first responders (this is 230.85 in the 2020 NEC).  Depending on how you were planning on setting up your hardware, your proposed setup may or may not comply with this new requirement, as it forces your transfer switch and Panel A outside, unless you wish to add a 400A non-fused enclosed switch to the equation to serve as your emergency disconnect.
Given all of this, there are better ways to get what you're after
Given all of these issues, there are a couple of alternate solutions to your underlying issues (wanting infinite hot water as well as generator backup, mostly) that let us get around the problems above; it may even be possible to shrink your service from 400A down to 200A, depending on which alternative you choose.  They also let us get rid of load-shed controls in some cases, and may also permit the generator itself to be downsized due to having better control over what loads are and are not backed up.
Circulating hot water for fun and profit
The first alternative to your current setup I propose is to ditch the tankless electric water heating and forced-air gas furnaces in favor of a hydronic solution, using hydronic coils in the air conditioning air handlers for central heat and what's known as a reverse indirect hot water heater for water heating with a condensing gas boiler powering it all.  This provides you with infinite hot water, just like your tankless heaters, but with several advantages over electric tankless.  First and foremost, you can manage capacity much more effectively with these systems, as the design of a reverse-indirect hot water heater provides thermal storage as well as highly efficient heat transfer, without having to worry about recovery ratings.  Reverse-indirect hot water heaters also provide the handy function of hydraulic separation, something that allows for a superbly flexible hydronic system to be developed that can accommodate multiple, heterogenous heat sources (boiler in winter, solar thermal and/or desuperheat in summer) and loads (hot water, central air handlers, radiant floors, you name it).
More heat, less juice
If burning gas to make hot water is an absolute non-option for some reason (even though you're fine with having two gas furnaces and a gas range), there are a couple of alternatives that will still get us out of this jam.  First and foremost on my list is the use of a split-system heat-pump water heater to supply your hot water needs.  An 83-gallon Sanden EcoCute, while perhaps twice the cost of your tankless trio, can keep up with quite extreme hot water loads with its 100+ gallon first hour recovery rating, while using 2/3rds of the peak power and even less energy than a typical tanked heater.  (It also has a stainless steel tank, so unless you have water high in chlorides, you won't need to change out a rusty, leaky tank, or deal with the descaling issues that are common with tankless heaters for that matter.)
With either the reverse-indirect or split-system heat-pump water heaters, you get an added benefit in that you may no longer need that 400A service any longer, which will save you quite a bit of money on service hardware.  Furthermore, both of these options let you have hot water while on generator power, something that can't be said for your current approach.  Even with this, though, you'll still want to consider putting the standby loads on a separate subpanel, as discussed below.
Service consolidation
The final option that may be available to you, depending on what your utility thinks of customer-provided meter mounting hardware, would be to use a single-disconnect, 400A meter-loadcenter combination to supply the service disconnect, emergency disconnect, and bonding/grounding electrode connection point.  We then connect the transfer switch to a feeder from the 400A meter-main, and feed a subpanel of standby loads from the load terminals on the transfer switch.  This lets us use a smaller generator and perhaps a smaller transfer switch as well, and also dispense with fancy load shedding hardware, since loads you don't want backed up can simply go in the meter-main's loadcenter, where they'll get inherently shed during transfer.
In your case, the subpanel and transfer switch can be sized for the standby load (100 or 200A, but with plenty of breaker spaces in the subpanel either way), while the breakers for the tankless heaters, clothes dryer, and perhaps the air conditioners can go in the meter-main, along with the feeder breaker for the standby feeder.  This also provides a single, exterior main disconnect, which meets the NEC 230.85 requirement mentioned above, and simplifies things considerably otherwise, getting rid of some of the trickiness with grounding electrode taps and having to run PVC instead of metal conduit between meter and service disconnect for bonding reasons.


How do I hook this 18-bulb lamp together?

Wow that is a lot of connections for a light. I am surprised the MFG did not send something as that is too many for wire nuts unless you do several sets and connect them together.  I would use a terminal block maybe a little bigger than this but I use this in control panels that are tight on space. I use jumper wires on 1 side then use the other for the connections. They are finger safe but I would put a layer of tape over the screws in this case. 2 tan and red 3M wire nuts connected with a jumper would be safe if that is 14awg wire but that is really pushing the limits.


Installing Honeywell RTH9580WF on ICM280 Furnace Control Board

According to the Manufacturer's documentation, the common wire from the transformer connects to the board at pin 6 of the Molex connector.

According to the wiring diagram, there should be a junction off the transformer, where one wire goes to the Molex connector, and another goes to the ground (chassis).  This junction may be directly at the transformer terminals.  This would likely be the best place to connect your new C wire.

Make sure you use a voltmeter, to verify that those are indeed the correct pins.

If there's not an extra wire in the cable that runs up to the thermostat. Then you'll have to pull a new wire/cable.


They certainly look like "wind braces" which keep your truss from folding flat like dominoes when pushed.
Without seeing the erection drawings for your roof, I can say that for my truss roof there were both longitudinal and diagonal braces specified as part of the erection drawing for the trusses. Trusses have a lot of stability in the direction of the truss, and none (of themselves) across the trusses. That has to be built in.


The difference between cold and hot pressures is clear: the expansion tank is doing its work, but it only has a finite size, and so as it takes in the expanded water it raises the overall pressure. The tank has a diaphragm across its middle separating the air in the top from the water in the bottom. As the water expands, it pushes the diaphragm up, but that compresses the air and so increases the system pressure. The larger the tank the less the pressure will increase for a given amount of water displacement, but as this isn't a high-precision situation it doesn't really matter if the pressure changes somewhat, so nobody buys a 50 gallon expansion tank.

On the two pressure meters displaying different values, my guess is that they aren't very accurate, and so one is reading high and the other is reading low. Interesting note: your expansion tank meter displays a 25% increase in pressure from cold to hot, which is darn close to the 22% increase in pressure shown by the boiler meter. This implies that they're off by a scale factor, but they'll both read zero PSI when there's no pressure.


That's a big job.  I had to sort out a bunch of wiring in an old factory which had a lot of neutral problems.  I shut off service to the building and, at the panel,  "pulled off" one hot and neutral off each circuit and did a series of diagnostics, checking for resistance between it and the rest of the neutrals, and resistance between the hot and neutral, and hot and other neutrals - alternating whether night-lights were plugged in or not.  If anything seemed out of the ordinary I followed it to the next junction box and carefully troubleshot, and the next, and so on until it tested clean.  (this was a real mess as many circuits were MWBCs.)  I don't recommend this, but I also had a 120v extension cord coming from another building, and connected the pulled-off circuit to that, and sniffed for voltage being anywhere it should not.  I would not recommend doing that with 230v, that stuff bites hard.

It can help to install a GFCI breaker (UK: RCD) in your panel, as they will trip if there is any cross-neutral activity between circuits.  You can move it around from circuit to circuit. Likewise you can put GFCI outlets on any point in the branch circuit, which will protect everything downstream.  In fact, many service panels have an outlet right next to the panel, and you could install a GFCI in there, attach a hot and neutral wire to the "load" side, and use that to test each circuit in turn.  I wish I had thought of that in hindsight!


First, we should clarify terms. Hardwood is pretty clear...it refers to solid wood that is nailed and/or glued to a subfloor.

Laminate is a it fuzzier. It's sometimes used to refer to Pergo, which is a flooring that has a top surface that is actually printed paper. It's fine, but not as durable as engineered laminates, which are more like plywood...having a solid wood top surface.

For this discussions, we'll omit the Pergo option as that's usually reserved for cheap rentals and the like.

Between engineered laminate and hardwood, it's really impossible to say one is more or less durable than the other, as it will heavily depend on the quality of the manufacturing, the protective finishing and, of course, the actual species of wood being used.

As for the 'hollow' sound, yes, laminates will sound like that because they float on top of of the floor rather than being connected directly to the subfloor. But you can reduce that by choosing a quality underlayment. I've had success personally using cork as an underlayment.

Today, I usually choose engineered flooring because:

it's cheaper
quick to installe
more dimensionally stable in climates where you have swings of high/low humidity

However, hardwood flooring has one huge benefit over laminate:

it can be refinished.

The latter means a hardwood floor can last many, many decades.


Ask the developer to provide the "sound transmission class" rating that was specified ( and guaranteed if it was ) and how that was implemented.
I.E. what products or building techniques were used in the condo to achieve those spec's. Then cut the wall open to see if indeed that is true ???
Was there a guarantee in writing that you would not hear a certain decibel level of sound or the everyday living of the people in the adjoining units?
Attend the association meetings and Talk to other owners to see if they have the same issue.
Consult an attorney


I can't be certain from the image provided but it looks like an LED fixture. A lot of times those LED fixtures are made to not have a replaceable bulb (IE the bulb is built into the fixture itself). If that is the case, then the whole fixture would need to be replaced. If you don't have open access to the ceiling (in the case of an open attic above or the like) it appears you need to pry the metal plate off to access the rest of it. Before doing that maybe try turning the plate to see if it unscrews or detaches from a locking mechanism.


After what depth is a subsurface drain (e.g. French drain) no longer practical?

It sounds like you are using a pier foundation. Piers should be deep enough that they are hitting undisturbed, solid soil or bedrock. As such, there's likely little reason to have a french drain in that situation as the footings should be well below the depth that would be effected greatly by surface water.


The studs and nuts are galvanized.  The washers are not.   You just grabbed the wrong kind of washer.

You can get galvanized washers, or since the washers are only in compression, you can use stainless without having to think about tensile strength.

As far as the bases proper, normally those are sold as galvanized.  I've been to our local galvanizer and seen mountains of Simpson Strong-Tie parts waiting their turn. Instead, however, these parts are powder-coated, and it sounds like abrasion damaged the powder coat membrane.

You can use the usual surface preparation methods, from "nothing" to "hand wirebrush" clear up to "media blast to SSPC-SP10 near-white metal".

Then you can follow with any of the usual primers, from cheap "paint-primer Stops Rust, we swear!" to Rustoleum 7769 Rusty Metal Primer, clear on up to the 2-part strontium chromate mil-spec stuff (the green stuff seen on airplanes).

Then you can follow with a topcoat of your choice, I strongly prefer an alkyd such as Rustoleum topcoats, not that there's anything special about its rust fighting abilities, it's just readily available everywhere.  The top shelf option is a 2-pack LPU, but that's over the moon for homeowners who aren't pro or prosumer boat painters.  Although a quality powdercoat is very, very good (just requires removing the part and stripping it to bare metal, which is not possible).


What are good ways to deal with an area that needs temporary floor covering?

I'm going with paint.

Research elsewhere on the net found some interesting stories about people putting down a new floor after a P&S floor.  Getting the old tiles up, and removing the glue was a serious PITA, right up there with older style glue down floors.

So...

A "Temporary" floor should be done in such a way that it is easy to remove, or can be covered over when comes the time to replace it.  To that end I rate the following as reasonable temp floor solutions:

Do nothing

Very cheap and quick.

Downsides:

Chipboard isn't a good wear surface, nor is is good with water.
Tacky looking.  You see all the work stains paint drips, etc from the construction time of the house, plus whatever got through the previous floor covering.

Paint it.

It keeps the dust down
It gives a smoother finish.
Prep work done for painting would likely need to be done for a permanent floor too.
Gives some protection against wear and water damage.

Downsides:

Block access to floor while painting.
Needs at least two coats for any kind of durability.
Looks cheap.
Not easy to keep clean.

Paint could be augmented with some form of filler first to make it smoother.

If the floor is a the really cheap sawdust board, there is merit in using a non-waterbase primer.

Also:  If you can, use recycled paint.  No point in using expensive paint for this.

Carpet Runner / area carpets

Really quick to put in.
less tacky looking than paint.

Downsides

More expensive
Cheap area rugs may not stay flat.

A variation on a theme:  If you can access used carpet, cut a chunk to fit, and as a temp covering, staple it in place.

Another variation:  If your area run doesn't do the whole area, paint first, then the area run.

Laminate flooring & Vinyl Plank flooring.

This is close to a permanent solution, but for a temp solution you may want to use whatever is cheapest at The Orange Box, and take shortcuts in the installation, such as duct tape transition strips, and being less attentive to detailing.  May make sense if the temp area is small compared to the entire area you will be doing.

Loose lay vinyl.

Another more permanent temporary solution.  This is a form of vinyl flooring stiff enough to just lay on the floor.  I've used it in a bathroom 12 years ago, and it has worked well for me.  But even cheap vinyl can be stapled in place.

This is, I think, the best solution for a bathroom, especially if the existing subfloor is one that can be easily water damaged.


Leviton offers a color change kit for their switches. Legrand may offer the same, or you may simply be able to take a Graphite 3-way and a White (or other color) 4-way and pop the Graphite plastic cover off the 3-way and put it on the 4-way. It gets back to the "too many SKUs" problem I keep encountering - they don't sell enough 4-ways to justify producing/stocking 4-way versions of every color, but the mechanical/electronic parts are the same for all colors, so just switch the colorful parts.


How do I best tear down a small building?

OH, looks like fun!  Love to demo small buildings.   Basic tools will be great. Large rip claw hammers, pry bars, a good 4 foot demo bar,  a circular saw, and MOST IMPORTANT tool would be a good reciprocating saw with long bi-metal demo blades.

Be careful, start at the top, remove the roof panels. cut off the rafters one at a time. then either cut and knock down the walls and dismember, or take off the sheathing first, then disassemble or cut off the framing.

Wear good gloves, boots, and eye protection.  I dumpster is a good idea also.


I have spent a great deal of time scrapping popcorn off ceilings. I don't know if that is the type of coating you are planning on, but I would tend to leave the ceilings smooth. I think that looks better. Textures ceilings were big in the 70's and 80's, but not so much now.

Sorry, not an answer, just my opinion.


What is the recommended thinset when tiling over concrete?

I use this type of Flexbond for concrete applications - well most applications.  This will isolate cracks up to 1/16th of an inch.  Also this stuff really bonds well to concrete.  I know that you can buy that $10 bag but I wouldn't skimp on the thinset.  I can say I have done a lot of tiling and not a crack yet (knock on concrete).

Also want to mention that I end up doing a lot of glass mosaic patterns (even in floors) and this stuff (get the white for glass) works great.


Sounds like the ducting is flexing when the blower kicks on. You're going to have to find which section of duct is moving, and either brace it (reduce movement) or insulate it (dampen the sound).

To locate the source, you could have a partner turn the blower on/off at the thermostat (obviously when the system is not calling for heat/cool). Then try and narrow down where the sound is coming from. Try holding your hand against surfaces of the duct (make sure it's not hot first), to see if you can feel the movement.

Unfortunately, there's not much more help I can provide, without actually being there.


Is this a doorbell transformer? How to test if faulty?

Yes, your method is sound.

Another method is to momentarily touch the line 3 and 4 together, and if good will have a tiny arc. This can be done easily at the door bell button. Once you remove the button off the wall undo one of the lines and momentarily touch it to the other line.

Usually the button will go bad or the chime.  By bypassing the button as described above, you're one step closer.


Why does my neutral read 115v with respect to ground?

The dead wire was probably intended to tie into the live wire and head on down the line.
Someone probably had a “brilliant “ idea to use the neutral as power and the ground as neutral. While it will give you power it is of course very dangerous.  Look in the panel and see if there is a white wire going to a circuit breaker. Most likely the splice was made in a junction box somewhere.


Why are my three-way switches behaving differently than they were?

This kind of switch does not have "ON" and "OFF" positions, just "UP" and "DOWN".

There are two and only two ways to set up the action of a circuit with two "two-way" switches:

(1) ON when switches are in different positions
UP + UP = OFF
UP + DOWN = ON
DOWN + UP = ON
DOWN + DOWN = OFF

(2) ON when switches are in same position
UP + UP = ON
UP + DOWN = OFF
DOWN + UP = OFF
DOWN + DOWN = ON

I have no confidence at all that you correctly remember which way your switches worked before your power failure incident. This kind of switch is entirely mechanical with no electronic parts and cannot suddenly change its behavior in the way you imply.

Apparently from your second and fourth paragraphs, on three of your circuits, you currently have (1) but you want (2).

The standard way to switch between actions (1) and (2) is to pull out one of the switches and swap the travelers, which are the wires on the two terminals that are not marked "common".

In your case, however, I note that your switches are wired using the backstab terminals, which makes it hard to remove the wires without damaging something. So I recommend this method: in each circuit you want to change, unscrew one switch, don't change any wires, rotate it one half turn, and screw it back in. Replace the cover plates.


What are my options for replacing a rotted fence post that is slanted in a large concrete slab?

How many of these posts do you want to replace? Where I live most people are now using round tubular galvanized steel posts about 2-3/8" OD instead of 4x4" cedar or pressure treated. There are special brackets for the rails that clamp around the poles. These poles do come in different grades (wall thicknesses) and in your case I would think a better grade would be appropriate since removal from concrete in these 4x4" holes would be very difficult compared to poles in holes in the ground even set in concrete.

If you put those galvanized round poles in the 4x4 holes, there would be enough play to get them plumb and then pour in concrete. There is also a kind of polymer foam for posts which is touted to be secure, but more workable than concrete. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-33-fl-oz-Fence-Post-Mix-483503/205671519


How do I use both hard and soft water when I have a water softener installed?

Looking at your second photo, I'd say that the top spigot is soft and the bottom is hard. The bottom is directly connected to the water main, coming up through the concrete, through the pressure regulator (the bell-shaped object) and thus, is connected before the softener.

There is no way to tell from the photos what is coming from the back-yard spigot. Your best bet is to buy a water hardness tester or test kit. I just did a search and currently, you can buy a tester from Amazon for around US$16. If your tap water is hard enough to warrant a softener, it is easy to test if water is direct tap or softened. Try washing your hands with standard hand soap. You should be able to tell the difference after rinsing: if your hands feel slippery, the water is softened. Try this first in the front where you have both so you can tell the difference.

If you decide not to use the softener, there may be a bypass valve on the back of the head of the unit, where the pipes enter.


If you were to go to an online retailer such as Amazon looking for a replacement GU10 Porcelain socket you will quickly learn a few points:

They are not particularly expensive. Often batches of then are showing for 8 to 12 USD. Individual sockets for in the 3 to 4 USD range.
Virtually all of them come with two short pigtail wires that are crimp connected to the socket. (Unless the unit is a socket type adapter to regular Edison bulb base).
There are two general styles. One is the plain porcelain socket and the other has a metal bracket on the rear to attach it to a threaded tube type mount.

For your replacement get the appropriate type of unit with its pigtail leads. Then:

Demount the light fixture shroud from the ceiling and disconnect the old lamp wires from the permanent wiring in the electrical junction box. (These old wires would be connected with wire nuts or other type of wire coupling depending upon your region).
Clean up the fixture shroud and mount the new socket to the shroud with the pigtail wires sticking out the back.
Connect the new pigtail wires to the permanent wiring in the electrical box. Use new wiring couplers or wire nuts if needed.
Remount the light fixture shroud up to the ceiling.


Where can I find a replacement bathroom fan with this uncommon electrical plug?

You shouldn't be seeking out that connector.
The problem is, you have not removed the fan. You've removed only part of the fan assembly.  The thing that plugs into is more parts of the fan assembly. Remove it too.
That particular fan is designed to break into halves: there's the half that mounts in the ceiling (first) and then half that latches into it once it's installed.  The two halves interconnect using that "proprietary" connector (meaning: it's peculiar to that make/model of fan; fans generally do not use that connector; it's not a standard.)
Just take the rest of the fan out of the ceiling until you are looking at a Romex cable and/or a junction box.


bathroom pipe joint leakage behind the ceiling tiles

PVC pipe like that is relatively easy to repair. The general concept is that you cut out the bad section including any fittings and then install new pipe and the necessary fittings to join back to the part where you cut it out.

If these lines carry water under pressure then you will need to make sure to shut off the water supply and ensure that the area where you cement in new PVC fittings is completely dry. Wet pipes and fittings do not join correctly.

I have to comment that I question this strange slopped on yellow looking cement for the existing PVC joints. I have never seen that before and it makes me wonder if the original installer used the completely wrong type of cement for the fittings. By honest evaluation it looks a lot like contact cement which would have been less than marginally effective at joining PVC fittings that would be under pressure. I would investigate to determine if this yellow stuff is legitimate. If it is not you may want to consider replacing more than just the currently leaking part.

When repairing make sure to use the correct type of PVC materials for pressurized water service. There are various grades of PVC pipes and some are called CPVC.


Powervent Water Heater Has Cold Air coming into Vent

It's a bad & incomplete install & nothing at all to do with the equipment. Get that Contractor back to seal everything up, which is the law. You very likely could & would get exhaust gases with that cold air.

There's absolutely no reason at all that you should feel even the slightest draft. It needs to be fully sealed inside & especially outside. I'm sorry a "pro" left you with this shoddy work...they should've been upfront & scheduled to comeback the next day to finish-up.

If they refuse, then call the Building Inspector to report them & force them back out to do it right.


Are there any composite/plastic lumber brands that can be used indoor?

As long as your platform/base doesn't need to be structural, cellular PVC based decking/trim is acceptable for indoor use and that type of moisture exposure. Look at Azek's trim product line.


Inducer Fan Blowing Out Flames and Pilot Light on Carrier Furnace?

It would be very, very odd for an inducer motor to blow out the burners and pilot.  If it was the case, and since inducers come on before the burners are ignited, I'd expect it to blow out the pilot before the burners ever ignited.  That pilot is much easier to blow out than the burners.

My suspicion is this: Furnaces that use inducer motors often have pressure sensors that detect whether or not the furnace draft is properly in place.  If it is not, the gas to the burners is shut down (I wouldn't be surprised that the pilot is shut down, too, for safety purposes — nowadays most furnaces with inducer motors use electric ignition to avoid the issue).  This is actually a good thing.  An improper draft can cause big trouble in your house (like everybody-dying-from-carbon-monoxide-poisoning trouble).  So this is a behavior you want to have.

Many furnaces have an LED light that blinks an error code when this occurs (my light in in the main blower area, not the burner area, but there is a small transparent window so I can see it... in the dark... with my hands over the window...).

Something getting in the way of a proper draft is more likely your problem.  It could be caused by the new motor not having enough umph for the exhaust setup in your house or a pressure switch having become too sensitive over time.  It could also be caused by dirt/dust/spider-webs/buildup in your exhaust pipes or something partially obstructing the exit (most are on the roof, but if yours in on a side wall, are there plants grown up around it?)

What's important is to find that LED (I'm hoping you have one) and either getting out your furnace's manual or finding it online and checking out what the error code is.  The blink code would happen right after the burners are shut down.


Safe to install vinyl plank flooring over existing peel and stick

Floating floors like that were developed specifically to avoid the need to remove the flooring underneath in most cases. if your existing flooring is well bonded and flat, there's no need to take it up unless you have height transition issues with adjacent rooms.

To be absolutely sure, and to avoid compromising your warranty, read the product literature.


What is this vacuum tool in cleaning chairs of car?

I believe that this is the exact machine used in the video
Daimer Carpet Cleaning

This is obviously a professional tool which would be out of range of most consumers except for professional service companies. Here is an Amazon alternative. BISSELL Portable

But to answer your original question, the first link is the one used in the video (pretty darn sure)


Painted sample areas have different sheen than the rest of the wall

Did you just apply primer over the paint sample areas? If so, the primer left the wall in that area with a different surface preparation than the rest of the area where you applied the top coats. The different sheen that you see is probably mostly due to how light reflects off the wall in that area.

One fix that may be possible, particularly if you had painted with a egg shell or low luster type paint, is to repaint with a flat paint.


how deep must a range hood be to effectively clear cooking vapor?

The deeper the better; ideally, it should be as deep as the range. Closer to the burners is better too, as is a higher airflow, within reason. Beyond 300 CFM, you might need a makeup air system or to be diligent about opening a window when it's running.

More info: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-curmudgeon/why-range-hoods-don-t-work


Attach stone veneer evenly to irregularly shaped foundation

Answering this for others that may encounter a similar situation.
I spoke with contractors at the local contractor supply store, showing them the same info as I included in the question here.
Their recommendation was to attach the lathe directly to the tall side of the foundation, and make the scratch coat thick enough to make up the difference. Then, on the rear side (where the foundation is stepped down), affix the cement board (on top of any other required things like WRB) and then do a thinner scratch coat on that.
Whether this is perfect, I’m unsure. But, it seems reasonable and I don’t see many viable alternatives.


How do I vertically connect two 4x4s on a deck to build a roof?

Current accepted practice that meets code in NC and is hurricane wind rated - cut a rabbet 24 inches in each piece. Sandwich the rabbet joint between 2 - 18 inch steel plates (galv for coastline) thru bolted with 4 equally spaced bolts.
Old method - 12 inch rabbet with 2 - 24 inch steel plates. 2 bolts thru the rabbet and 1 bolt above and below the joint.
I think the old method is stronger esp. for sheer but code is code.


Why is my mixer tap/faucet slow to switch off?

This is not really an answer, but .... the problem started spontaneously, and has just as spontaneously resolved itself.

I didn't make any changes, as I re-used the original cartridge, but the tap now behaves normally a few months after the problem started.

Presumably the cause was external to the tap, perhaps related to the water pressure, etc.


Can plug an air-conditioner into a outlet with an adapter

The most important thing to consider is how much current the air conditioner requires and how much current the receptacle can supply. Most USA wall outlets can supply 15 amps. Kitchen counter and bathroom outlets have long been required to supply 20 amps, but probably not at the time before grounded outlets were required. You need to first check the current requirement marked on the AC. If it has a standard 15 amp plug, it should require no more than about 80% of 15 amps, 12 amps or 13 amps. Check the fuse or circuit breaker for the outlet you want to use to determine the maximum current it can supply. Also check what other outlets are on the same fuse or breaker. After plugging in the AC, there may not be much capacity for other things plugged into the same circuit. If the circuit has the capacity, you can connect the AC.

Rather than use an adapter to accommodate the grounded plug, it would be better to install a GFI outlet in place to the old ungrounded outlet. I believe that code still allows that, but the outlet must be marked as ungrounded using the label provided with the outlet. (I checked your profile to determine that we are talking about a USA location.) Better than that but more expensive would be to add a ground wire. An electrician would need to determine how that can be done in an acceptable way.

If the AC does not have a standard grounded plug, it must require more than 13 amps. If it requires no more than 15 amps, it could be connected to the proposed circuit, but code requires that there be no other outlets on the circuit. If it requires more than 15 amps, it requires a higher capacity circuit.


Does anyone know what this metal thing in the corner of my basement is?

It looks like you have a basement laundry room with cinder block walls.  The vertical structure doesn't look like metal to me, more like fiberboard put up to hide a soil stack and other plumbing.  With the shampoo and wash cloth hanging on the utility sink... Do you have a shower down there too?

Either the plumbing hidden behind the fiberboard wall may be leaking or the humidity from laundry or a shower may be condensing on the wall or whatever's behind the fiberboard, then soaking through from behind and puddling on the floor.

To figure out what's really happening you'll probably have to unscrew the fiberboard and look behind it.  If it's a leak, fix it.  If it's condensation, there are several ways to address it depending on how much effort and expense you're willing to go to.


How to reseal wiring coming through roof after adding an additional coax drop

before you go poking holes in that check what it looks like from the underside. there may be a solid barrier that you'll need to drill before you can feed the co-ax through.

I see the gray flexible conduit transitioning to a solid white conduit keep clear of the power wires, but being close to the thermostat/control  wire should not be a problem.

I'd go with a urethane caulk sealant, this stuff is really sticky, paintable weathwerproof, etc... And should be compatible with what you have there which appears to be some sort of urethane foam.  it costs a bit more than silicone caulk though.

squirt some in beside the co-ax and then work the co-ax up and down to spread it out, then add some more in a little cone aroun the top side of the co-ax

Clean up with white spirit (AKA mineral turpentine, Stoddard solvent) so have some handy (and a few rags) because a mess is pretty much guaranteed.


It's a 25W continuous-current model (260mW, 28-87V)

No it isn't. You need to be careful about the details.

constant-current not continuous-current
260 mA, not mW.

  is it more important to match on wattage, or current, or both (or neither)

All are important but the most important is that the current be close to 260 mA. LEDs need a constant-current. You could choose a lower current and the LEDs would produce less light (fewer lumens, less brightness). If you chose a higher current driver the LEDs would have a shorter life, in the worst case, seconds.

It would be prudent to choose a driver capable of at least 87V and at least 25W. It doesn't hurt to be higher (so long as it is a constant-current driver set to the correct current). It shouldn't be less (though the old driver should have been specified to run comfortably well-inside its limits).

If you have a similar light fitting that is still working, it might be useful to measure the output voltage while the light is on. Alternatively measure the forward voltage across one LED and multiply it by the number of LEDs in series in each ring (look at tracks on reverse, they might be several serial chains in parallel).

If there is one chain of 24 LEDS, each 3V, you need a driver capable of >= 72VDC.

If there are two parallel chains of 12 LEDs, each 2V, you need a driver capable of >= 24VDC.

  I'm unsure if this has implications for whether or not it would be possible to use two 12W drivers in parallel

You are right, the two rings of LEDs are independent. You could use two 250mA 12W drivers.

  What's the best approach for getting this thing illuminating again?

Google for "25W 250mA LED driver"

The usual electronics distributors have parametric search


How should I repair drywall seams that have developed cracks?

Depends on why its cracking..
Were trusses used for the roof construction?  Many problems are caused by wind and truss "uplift" The solution for this problem is a special, movable joint.  No nails or screws are used within 18" of interior wall's top plates.  Special clips are used that allow movement.
Building Sciences Corporation report on truss uplift
The expense and hassle of retrofitting "floating corners" might mean trying a number of fixes.
First might be be using a lightweight elastomeric patch, such as

Product Description:
DAP® ElastoPatch® Flexible Patching Compound is a high performance, elastomeric spackling compound
that eliminates recurring cracks by providing a permanently flexible fill. Will not crack, crumble or fall out
as the joint expands and contracts over time.  Superior paintability – won’t flash paint. Available in smooth grade and textured grade to provide the perfect finish.  Interior and exterior use.
Suggested Uses: Ideal for filling and repairing recurring cracks and holes in:
• Stucco
• Brick
Surface Preparation & Application:
• Clean surface removing all loose particles, plaster, wax, dust, dirt, peeling paint, old caulk, grease and oil.
• Using a caulking gun, brush, putty knife or trowel, fill crack with patching compound.  Tool patched surface to desired finish before product dries.

Product is not sandable.

• For some repairs, more than one application may be required. Use product to bridge gaps up to 1/4” wide and 1/2” deep.  Fill small cracks and surface defects to a minimum depth of 1/8”.
• Can be painted after 30 minutes with latex-based paints. Allow to dry at least 2 hours (longer in cool or humid conditions) before painting with oil-based paints.
• Wash tools immediately after use with water.


How can I calculate the power consumption of an A/C unit?

It will only draw that level of power when the compressor is running.  In normal circumstances it will cycle on and off to chill the cooling element as needed; the rest of the time only the fan will be running to blow air over them.

The amount of power consumed will vary depending primarily on how hot it is and what temperature you have the AC set to.

To find out how much power it's actually using, you'll need to use a power meter of some sort.  I'm partial to the Kill-a-Watt if they're available where you live.


Unless the door opens directly into a set of stairs, doors can generally be installed to open in either direction.

A lot of times bathroom doors are installed to swing outward because the bathroom is quite small, and this orientation allows for more options when placing the fixtures in the bathroom. It also gives the illusion of the room being bigger.

Another fairly popular option is to install a pocket door, where the door slides sideways into the wall, rather than swinging inward or outward. This requires some additional work, as you are essentially installing a door twice as wide as a normal door, and you need to ensure you have the proper structure for it.


Can I rest cement posts directly on the bedrock to build a structure for a large shed?

Piles to bedrock (essentially what you are proposing, albeit with really short piles) is an excellent foundation. I'd suggest drilling some holes in the rock so you can pin (with steel rebar) the base of the concrete post/pile into the bedrock.

I don't think you'll have any issues with the freezing - it will happen, but the bedrock isn't going anywhere, and the building set on piles set on bedrock won't, either.


How can I prevent my Mirra chair from creaking when reclining?

After some experimentation, I found that the underlying problem was from overtightening the bolts that connect the chair back to the seat assembly. Doing so puts excess pressure on the plastic shell and causes the creaking sounds. By loosening the bolts and refastening them without heavy torque, the problem is resolved and the chair reclines and moves silently.


What economical ways exist to dampen floor vibration on top floor apartment?

You need something to absorb the movement and vibrations.

I am not really sure about the layout but you need something along the adjoining wall that is very heavy and won't make noise.  I had the same situation when I was in college and I brought in a large concrete outdoor bench and put a rubber mat under it.  It weighed a good 400-500 pounds and I had energy to move these things back then.  It worked great.

So very heavy furniture plus padding... You could also talk to the landlord and see if he can secure the joists better underneath to see if that helps.


You were not very clear with your question.

I am assuming that you are looking for the fitting to which the sprayer head attaches, which then drops over the bracket peg in your first picture.

It is called a swivel connector. They are not "generic", they are specific to the manufacturer of your hand-held shower equipment. This one is from Alsons, a very common brand in the U.S.A. and the one I think you may have. Do an internet search for Alsons Swivel Connector.


Use water heater water when input supply has been shut off

Step one, very important. Shut off the heat (electric supply or gas) to the water heater before draining it. An empty or partially empty water heater can be very quickly destroyed if heat is applied while it's not full of water.

Then drain into a bucket from the drain valve, opening the highest hot water tap in the house  to let air in if the heater is below the rest of the plumbing.

If the heater is above other plumbing, you can open the highest hot water fixture and then fill from a lower hot water fixture, or possibly hot or cold water fixture depending on possible check valves, etc.

When water supply is restored, run the hot water taps until all air is purged from the water heater BEFORE restoring power or turning on & re-lighting gas supply to it.


What kind of wiring/switch to use for gas fireplace switch?

A couple of alternatives to a 120V light switch:

A good quality sealed gold plated electronic toggle switch.  There's a lot of different kinds.
A smart relay switch.  EG ZWave or whatever you want.  About $40, which is more than a bit of wire and a cheap light switch, but much less than a new fireplace remote and you would then have remote control from your phone and would not need to install a wall box as it would all go under the fireplace instead of the existing remote.   Not a regular smart light switch, that would zap your fireplace with 120V but a "relay" or also called "dry contact" switch.

And ... by FAR the best thing about Option 2 is that combined with a taught Alexa skill you could simulate The Clapper.   Instant romance!


Scotsman Ice Machine DCE33 will not eject ice

Your model has a harvest timer.  After a set freeze time, the timer should operate a hot gas reversing valve that will slightly warm the freeze surface and cause the cubes to eject by gravity.  The timer or coil on the hot gas valve can fail.  The harvest cycle will also drain water that wasn't used in the last cycle and refill.  It seems like waste but this is how Scotsman makes clear and not cloudy cubes, the water ejected will contain the minerals that didn't make it into the ice.

First thing to check tho, is whether ice is forming.  The cubes are made by spraying water into a form that's closed on top, open on the bottom.  (Like an upside down ice tray.) Water that doesn't freeze falls back down into a sump, where it is pumped and sprayed again continuously.  Shut the unit off and stick ur fingers upward behind the plastic curtain where the ice comes out, do you feel ice in the forms? Or empty ice forms?

Those Scotsmen models operate more efficiently when the bin has ice it, than completely empty.  The storage box is not refrigerated, just insulated.  Residual cold from ice already made helps.  Also a bad seal on the door gasket can significantly reduce ice production by letting heat in/cold out.

Have you cleaned the condenser coil?  A dirty coil can keep it from producing ice.


Hanging an antique clock on drywall (no studs available) using rope

That plan sounds a whole lot more complicated and difficult than is necessary. Simply use a single drywall anchor that is rated for more than the weight of the clock with a long screw that will extend far enough into the hole on the clock to be secure. These anchors are a perfect easy solution.


What can I do about a toilet flange that is 1/4" below the floor

I have used rise-a-ring in the past a plastic spacer that brings the flange up to the new floor level after adding tile.


The method you describe is the basic method used by electricians and data-techs to install low voltage cable.

Low voltage and data cable do not require conduit where it is exposed, or full boxes in the wall. It does need to be run through the floor joists in the basement and stapled to the tops of the ceiling joists in the attic.

Normally you would install it similar to how you have envisioned. If there is a basement, you would drill up from the basement into the wall cavity and cut a hole in the wall sized for a device box. Cut the hole at the same height as your receptacle boxes so they all look even. Make sure you don't hit a stud. Most data-techs use a long ¼" feeler bit with a slot in he end of it. Once you drill up where you can reach the drill bit you attach the wire to the drill bit by twisting some of the wires through the slot in the bit. Then pull the wire down into the basement and feed it to where you want to go. In the basement the cable needs to be run through the floor joists.

If there is no basement, or you think it would be easier in the attic, then drill down into the wall cavity as you already attempted. Make sure your drill bit is long enough to go through both of the top plates of the wall. (This can be a problem if you are near the perimeter of the house where the roof slopes close to the top of the wall) Then use a fish tape in the wall to reach the hole for the data-port. Pull your wire up from the main floor and feed it through the attic to where you want to go. Sometimes you can use a short length (10 feet) of small chain or solid wire fed through the hole into the wall cavity and use it to pull the wire down from the attic. (This is all much easier with two people.)

Either way you go you should read more about the design of wall construction similar to this article. Take accurate measurements to locate the wall cavity and make sure you don't drill into open floor or ceiling.

Good luck!


The bonding jumper should always occur at the first means of disconnect. Whether it is at the panel with a main breaker or a remote enclosed breaker. After that every panel or breaker should have an isolated neutral bus and a separate grounding bus. So you subpanel should be corrected.

The meter is covered under NEC Article 90.2(B)(5) a. Which basically states that the NEC does not cover property owned or leased from the electric utility and includes you meter and meter base. So they have there own codes and we simply do what they have requested.

Hope this helps.


Why are two load wires both energized when one is?

sounds like the circuit is making a complete circle. they ran wire around the room and came back to the same box again. go to the "last" box on the run. There should only be one wire. Wire in, no wire out.


Why can't you install a GFCI in a box that has more than 4 wires (not including ground)?

Instructions are obtuse because of UL

This has to do with the device's UL listing.  UL only approves devices for certain applications; i.e. you can't use an Alumiconn to splice 9600V wiring. Two things assure you stay within those applications:  First NEC 110.3(B) which requires you obey the labeling and instructions, and second, UL also approves the labeling and instructions as part of the listing.  That is because, generally, they only test for conditions described in the instructions (e.g. they don't test Alumiconn for 9600V splices).  Anyway, if you wonder why some instructions are so stilted and weird, that is why.

When a manufacturer writes instructions likely to be read by amateurs, UL gives it extra scrutiny.  It is UL who is imposing the "See electrician for >4 wires" issue.  You have to hook up the two LINE terminals or the device won't function.  With only 2 additional wires, UL feels comfortable with the instructions.  >4, there become several wrong/dangerous ways to hook it up.

Just use LINE.  Leave LOAD alone.

Anyway, for you, it is simplicity itself.  Everything goes onto LINE.  Don't even remove the warning tape from the LOAD terminals.  So you would just pigtail.

Do not use the LOAD terminals at all unless you have a specific reason to do so, and only for the pairs of wires where that reason exists.  The instructions will say something else; they want you to ignorantly protect parts of your circuit without realizing you are doing so, and because of the side-effects, that's something I do not agree with.

Why not use LOAD for everything? Well, you're perfectly allowed to; and you're advised to by the instructions.  That will place everything downline into the GFCI protected zone.  That seems oh, so clever: Free protection! And that is the purpose of having LOAD terminals!  However, this has a dark side, if those downline loads don't need GFCI protection.  Any trivial leakage from those things will stack i.e. cumulate, increasing your risk of nuisance trips.  Nuisance trips drive people crazy.  Do people do a laborious bug hunt on each leg of the downline that wasn't even part of the project in the first place, to suss out every last dirty contact or NM wire that's getting wet, or stick isolation transformers on their refrigerators?  No, they don't; they rip out the GFCI.

So "GFCI everything" is a grand theory, but not something you can really live with.  UL doesn't care about that. They say "you should do the bug hunt".  UL can come and do the bug hunt, IMO.

What is a good idea to not protect?

Grounded hardwired loads, esp. lighting where dangerous power tools operate (e.g. curling irons)
Any downline outlet which has its own GFCI protection
Refrigerators that are cord-and-plug connected (post NEC 2014 you'll need to get a variance if the fridge is in a location where all receps need GFCI)
Safety equipment of any kind (including refrigerators).  It won't do to have an emergency fire pump trip a GFCI the moment it starts; the purpose of the gadget is to protect from fire, not electrical shocks.


How do I fix window jams that are not even with drywall?

A buddy of mine does trim work for a living.  In the place we re-modeled, he did much of our trim work, and like the OP, we had many jams that were not parallel nor flush with the walls.  What he ended up doing is to extend the jam in order to split the difference (i.e.- at maximum the jam was 1/8" past the DW, at minimum, 1/8" behind).  Then he had a few tricks to get the trim installed-

For areas where the jam was slightly short, he would take a razor blade, and score the drywall about 1/4" in from the edge of where the trim would sit, then take a hammer, and punch down the DW even with the jam.  So the outside edge of the trim would be on intact DW, but under the bulk of the trim the DW was smashed down.

In areas where the jam was sticking out too far, he would do one of two things- in most of our rooms we were painting the trim, so he would use a paintable caulk behind the trim to seal it against the wall, then use a piece of square wood dipped in some soapy water to make the caulk flush with the trim.  After painting over it, you can't see where the trim stops and caulk starts.

For the one room with stained maple trim, he shimmed behind the trim when cutting the miters, and played with the thickness of shim until the trim would "rock back" against the drywall but still meet up with the trim it was mitered against.  This seemed much more an art than a science.

Overall, the process is not easy, and I doubt I would be able to duplicate the quality of his joints, for the exposed wood trim with jams extending past the drywall.


The pipe contains a component which I never saw before

Me too

  Is it some kind of filter?

It might be a filter, it might be some kind of device that lets water out but keeps smells in. Though there should be a normal U,S or P trap for that purpose. It could be a type of bottle trap known as an inline trap. It has some similarities to a straight-through pedestal basin trap

  what is the correct procedure to clean it?

No idea but it does look like there are parts which can be unscrewed.

Those collars have ribs which makes them look like they were designed to be rotated by hand. I would start by undoing the metal screw at the very top that holds the funnel to the wall.


Basically you need to remove the burned wood. Sanding or planing the tabletop would be the most common method of doing that, followed by refinishing. Cost is both off-topic and highly variable (which is part of why it's off-topic - see the help) - not much if you are doing it yourself, considerably higher and highly variable if you are engaging someone else to do the work.


The door bell transformer is mounted to a mains electrical box. Electrical code requires that all electrical boxes remain accessible. You cannot bury or hide an electrical box.

This translates to the fact that you cannot cover the electrical box + transformer behind drywall.


I need to fix a recess light in my kitchen?

Turn off the breaker to this circuit.
Near the bottom of the can light there are three screws. Remove them and the entire inner tin-can should pull down out of the ceiling. You can now rescue that screw and deal with whatever the problem is. This also provides you access to the junction box that is part of the lamp; where its connections are that you need to inspect.

A can light that seems to turn itself on and off either has too high of wattage bulb in it, causing the over-temp sensor to trip. Or the over temp switch has failed and needs to be replaced.

I am at a loss as to why one would burn out bulbs faster than others, unless it is somehow subject to more vibration. I'd check it against the others with a meter to make sure everything was kosher.


How can I fix my garage's existing wiring

Hold on.  Why is it 10 AWG?  You're always allowed to use bigger wire than is required, but why did they do it?  It's important.

By the way, a local breaker will not trip first.  In most cases, it's at least 50/50 that that the breaker in the house will trip first, closer to 100% if it's raining :)

Factoring for distance

For a long cable run, you need to examine your actual loads (not breaker trip rating) and the distance, and consider the voltage drop you would suffer on that circuit given those actual loads.  If you're a cable salesman, you want to keep it under 3%.  If you're a cable buyer, you want to keep it under 6%, and if there are other segments of wiring, make sure they all together don't exceed 8%.  8% isn't going to break anything.

Most people do not realize the above, and take the cable salesman's default of breaker trip value / 3%.  That calls for a bump in wire size every 58 feet @ 120V, or every 115' @ 240V, give or take 10 feet or so.

If your garage is >60' from the house, you need to consider your loads and recompute voltage drop for your loads and percent preference.

One option: change the circuit to 240V

Right off the bat, doing so cuts your voltage drop in half, and your power drop by 3/4.  After this refactoring,  you could definitely fuse the circuit for 20A -- and just like 120V, 20A is the cap for "normal" branch circuits.  You would need to use 240V lighting (which is easy, many lights are 120-240-277V multi-voltage these days).  And you would need to change all your receptacles to NEMA 6, and use 240V appliances obviously.  You could use an isolation transformer for 120V appliances.

Since this is still one circuit, you don't need to install local grounding rods.

Another option: Multi-wire branch circuit

If the existing wire is conduit, this will be easy, but you will need to replace the 10/2 cable with individual wires.  You get to do your voltage drop calculations based on 240V if both legs are loaded at least halfway - so if you have 6A of lighting on one leg, and 12A of tool on the other, you're golden.

This is still a single circuit, so you still don't need grounding rods.

120V Subpanel

This is the solution you are thinking of.  Without running an additional neutral, you can wire the subpanel as a 120V subpanel.  Pick a tiny panel (e.g. 18 spaces)* that has a main breaker (mandatory), and just split the 120V hot wire to both sides of the main breaker.

Technically, you don't need a main breaker only a shutoff switch, but the cheapest way to get large-amperage shutoff switches is main breakers in panels.  Also, it's morally important that the shutoff switch be readily obvious, and a larger "main breaker" set above the other breakers does the job.  Code technically allows a back-fed breaker with a label, but I think that's too confusing to someone in a panic, in a hurry, in the dark.

Since its' a subpanel, it will need 2 ground rods set at least 6' apart - yes, in addition to the ground wire going back to the house.  It only needs one ground rod if it passes the ground impedance test, but that test is not DIYable, and ground rods are.

120/240V subpanel

If it's in conduit, and you can run 3 wires + ground, you can make it a 120/240V subpanel, in the normal way subpanels are done. For least voltage drop, try to have loads balanced (or at least 50% balanced). Other than that, see above.

Transformer-fed panel

Lastly I'll mention the option of using the /2 cable to feed a 240/480--120/240 transformer.  You get to keep the same cable, but you are able to deliver 120V/240V, and voltage drop on 120V loads is reduced by 3/4.

In this case you obtain a 5 KVA transformer (Craigslist sometimes has them in the $100-ish range) and feed the primary with 240V from the house. The secondary feeds the garage panel, which is a "main panel" (because it's transformer-derived) so we need ground rods again.  The transformer automagically converts your 120V draws into 240V at half the amperage, which means 1/4 the voltage drop.  You can also jumper the transformer to give you a few volts "bump" to compensate for voltage drop.


How can I figure out why my electric bill is so high?

By FAR the best bet for billing questions and complaints is to call your POCO (power company).
In my area they take high bill complaints very seriously and will send a representative out quickly.

Also, things like this are absolutely NOT grounding/earthing issues. It is possible that it is a neutral problem and the grounding has become part of the issue that way, but grounding has nothing to do with the day to day operation of the electrical system.


Can my remote-controlled ceiling fan be connected to a wall switch?

Probably. The receiver is usually just a box that can be removed, and the wires from the ceiling connected directly to the wires for the fan/light.


Is this small stepped crack under window a worry?

That doesn't look like a problem.  Mortar cracks like this in brick facing are not uncommon as a home ages and settles slightly.  A problem would be when the crack is opening up and showing significant movement.
I would, however, re-point or caulk this mortar to prevent water from infiltrating and then freezing and possibly opening this up wider.


Should I install a sub-panel or add a second service drop?

Regardless of how much work it takes, if you are considering adding a large number of tools and a large load then a sub-panel would be the way to go.

With more information we could give you better advice.

Good luck!


How and can you increase the flow volume for a tub faucet?

You clearly have a problem.  I am going to venture a guess that some debris got into the faucet on install. This can raise havoc with water delivery.  Can you disconnect the supplies going to the tub faucet and check the pressure at that point?


Is this type of under-sink connection appropriate?

Yes this seems faulty, not just a poor alternative. Installer needs to come back and fix it, at their cost, with proper seal rings ...etc. This is very straightforward and easy work that should and easily could have been done right.
In the interim, try to slide a bucket, a container or a lid (inside facing up) under the P trap to collect water and prevent damage to the cabinet.
Should it be hard to slide something underneath as-is, you can open the P-trap rings, remove it to place a bucket underneath and close again. Have a cloth handy (like you seem to have) to collect any run off.
You can also fix this yourself. No glue is needed. Take measurements of the length and diameter of the pipe, and take the picture to a hardware store. They will be able to tell you what parts you need and how to assemble it all. If you can disassemble the parts, take them with you.
If the installer is irresponsive, the DIY route is viable even for a beginner. You can always come back to this site for more questions.


Mounting Full Motion Mount on a Single Stud

Toggles and other heavy weight drywall anchors can be suitable for TV mounts when the mount is flush. Or toggles in to metal studs. Since the load is mostly shear and not pull-out, this is fairly safe. (Provided the drywall is thick enough, the anchors are installed correctly, the wall is properly supported, and lots of other considerations too numerous to go in to here.)

However, adjustable, articulating or arm mounts should never be used on just drywall or metal studs. No matter what anchor you use, drywall and metal studs can not handle the pull out force applied when a TV is extended or tilted away from the wall.

So either get a flush mount, or open the drywall and install appropriate wooden studs.


You could enlarge your wdv piping.  If you put a 4" abs trap under your sink (it would look crazy but you could do it), the 4" trap would hold (pie*4*4)* length of pipe = ~ 608 cubic inches * 0.0043 gallons per cubic inch = 2.59 gallons.  Dishwasher uses 4-6 gallons.  It would take quite a bit of work to upsize your venting and stack if not already at 4" at the tie in.

Make sure you don't have PVC pipe in your wdv as the max temperature it handles is 140.  180 is the limit for abs.

The other thing that might help is to put a watercycles heat recovery stack on the vertical portion of your stack that the dishwasher is eventually draining into.  These units pull cold water from your supply through a copper pipe around another copper pipe that is absorbing heat from your drain.

http://www.watercycles.ca/index.php/watercycle-products-2

Converting some of your wdv to metal would allow a large portion of the heat to dissipate, choose the portions of pipe where the water moves slowest.

I'd do some real world measurements of the temperature at the junction to the septic to see how hot the water is once it reaches that point.  82C water that is traveling through wdv at ambient say 20C pipe depending on the length of the pipe is going to loose a fair amount of heat to the trap contents and the surrounding materials.

There is of course manual intervention of running some cold water at the same time your dishwasher drains.  Super manual would be to have it drain into a 6 gallon bucket and manually dump the bucket later once the water has cooled.

A grease trap would probably work, they are large boxes that would have the effect of tempering the water coming out of the dishwasher with existing water and they have a fairly large capacity.


Can a Sonoff Basic Switch be connected between a wall switch and a light?

There's no reason that wouldn't work unless the manufacturer advises against it. It's a possibility that frequent on/off cycling isn't good for it, but that's unlikely. It's somewhat likely that there will be a wifi reconnect lag, however, so take that into consideration.

Really, this is no different than a typical motion detector on a switch loop.


Possible to attach an external electrical box to an old work box?

Consider surface mount boxes.

These are designed for line current, but are fine for low voltage. Just swap out your connectors and faceplates. They can mount over an existing old work box and have side access for raceways. Usually they require the same brand raceway to align properly.

Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Should a vent cap be installed under all the layers of shingles, or just the top most layer?

First off, three layers of shingles indicates that you need to redo the roof completely soon.  You're at your max, and frankly I think even two layers is a sign of lazy roofers.

That said, vent caps are most effective when installed so that the water runs onto them from the upper shingles and then back ONTO the lower shingles, as such:

So, you should definitely put the cap under ALL layers of shingles above, and over ALL layers of shingles below.


What height/ distance from ceiling or above surfaces would be good for uplighting/ scone wall lamp?

You're first consideration should be glare. Typically we try and set the best lighting above,slightly behind and on the right hand side of the head. This gives best lighting for reading or using a computer screen (for a right hander anyway). I have never seen a height requirement for a sconce from a reference source like the AIA. other than keep it away from head banging or a shoulder breaker. A fire egress would keep it above 7'4". In this case its not an egress so I would say use your best discretion.

Hope this helps


Should the tester start flickering when I touch my chandelier's top wiring cover?

The type of proximity  tester you are using is fine for quick checks on conductors and surfaces, but not always reliable. Since they will detect voltage at a short distance, it often gives false positives due to the fact that a hot conductor is close to some other part, such as your canopy. Often an AC voltage will induce a phantom voltage on adjacent metal conductors that your tester will detect.

The only certain way to tell, if in fact you have voltage on your canopy, is to use a Volt meter. Since voltage on a grounded part such as your canopy indicates a short to ground, it should trip your breaker. Regardless, use a meter and test the canopy to the actual ground conductor for any voltage. Also test hot to neutral and neutral to ground.

Another test you can try with your proximity tester is to drop the canopy and move it away from the hot wire. I bet the positive reading will disappear. Try this with the light on and off. If you still get a positive reading with the light off, you may in fact have a short to the casing of the fixture. If the positive is only when the light is on, then check to assure the neutral is not attached directly to the fixture case, as this will cause a positive reading.

Caution is always advised with working with electricity. If you continue to get positive readings or really don't understand the theory of what I have described, then get some help from an electrician to be safe.  Good Luck.


Typically, GFIs with a red or orange indicator light signal a tripped GFI. In fact, yours definitely looks tripped as the "reset" button looks popped out. In this case the receptacles definitely should NOT be working.

First things first, push the "test" button. If nothing happens and the light is on and the receptacles still work, replace the device immediately. It is not likely with a newer GFI receptacle, but it is possible for it to fail in the on position.

If the test button pushes in and the reset button pops out more, and the receptacles stop working that signals a proper test. If you can press the reset button back in, and the receptacles then work, you should be fine.

I am leaning towards the former being the case though, especially considering the electronic smell you are experiencing.


If a roll is 6′ wide with a total area of 84 square yards, what is the length?

I think this is really a math problem and not DIY. But if this is referring to buying carpet or other roll products for a house then it could by DIY:

Area = Width x Length which is the same as Length = Area / Width
1 yard = 3 feet

Total area = 84 square yards = 84 x (3 feet/yard) x (3 feet/yard) = 756 square feet

Width = (756 square feet) / (6 feet) = 126 feet

42 is the Answer to the Ultimate Question of Life, the Universe, and Everything but it is not the correct answer to this math problem.

I suspect that somewhere you multiplied or divided by 3 (== feet per yard) instead of 9 (== square feet per square yard), as 126 / 3 = 42.


Will the concrete slab in a partially heated shed conduct a lot of heat to the unconditioned area?

I'd have no concerns about doing what you describe. I've seen it done many times here in frigid Minnesota. Build your walls (using treated lumber and suitable nails where it contacts the slab), insulate the walls and ceiling, and line the entire thing with 4 mil poly sheeting.

Yes, you'll lose a bit of heat through the floor, but since your heat source is above the floor it won't absorb much anyway. The cost inefficiency is negligible unless you're extrapolating out a few decades. The primary sink isn't the connection to the unheated slab area anyway--it's the ground. The old barn slab almost certainly doesn't have insulation under it.

You could always overlay the floor between the walls with foam and plywood or one of the ready-made subfloor products if you wanted maximum energy savings.

Have fun with your project space. I'm envious. Just don't asphyxiate yourself with homebrew heating equipment.


Q:  Is this possible?  How could I do it?

A:  Certainly possible, but there are some obvious issues:

The open circuit voltage for T8 instant start ballasts is up to 600v.
Most ballasts require installation on a metal enclosure for heat dissipation and RF shielding.
Most ballasts require fairly short wire separation distances between the ballast and the lamp (perhaps 6'-- some specialty sign ballasts will go longer distances).
Most T8 fluorescent lamps supplied by an electronic ballast are electrically very noisy.  Moving the lamp away from a grounded metal enclosure makes noise containment worse.  In a residential environment, one might be very unhappy with the RF interference.

Have you considered an LED lookalike for the T8 fluorescent?  There are units available that run directly on 120v line voltage. The initial lamp cost on these is high, but if you are building a custom piece of light fixture art, that may not be an issue.  One example is model 1920WH-L (I am not endorsing this particular unit):


Comment by "NitroxDM": I was actually just looking at something like this, "Condar ASV", and Air King AK300LS on a timer to run for a few hours in the night.

I honestly don't know anything about those products, as I have no first-hand experience with them, but they look like they would work well in bringing in clean air & removing stale air...

I do know from using trickle vents in the UK and from their wide use in the domestic building market there in the UK:

They are cheap.
Easy to install, definitely a DIY project.
Do a surprisingly good job at providing natural "background" ventilation to an indoor room (space).


Can I step over pink wool like insulation in the attic?

The only place I would step is on the ceiling joist. The only thing that holds the insulation is the drywall. If you step on it you will probably end up back in the room below. A foot print on the insulation that covers the joist will not hurt anything. Before I would remove the old dry wall, I would mark the location of the ceiling joist on the existing drywall and install 1/4 inch drywall over the old. I have done this several times and it works fine.


Your proposed solution is perfect. I'd suggest using pressure treated wood in contact with the concrete. Adhesive probably won't work terribly well, but if you get a couple of screws in on an angle on the right (connecting to the old plate) plus lots of screws elsewhere, everything should hold together well enough to carry drywall.


Want to retile my bathroom, but found masonry filling under old tile

You need to get rid of everything under the tile.  The bed at one time was probably really firm but as it gets  water it will start to break down and those sand bases really don't dry out well once they get wet.

If you need to add height just add plywood but top layer should be cement board.


Dead electrical outlets after replacement

It sounds like you've reversed the line and load connections. Modern GFCIs ship in a tripped state and will not reset unless the connections are proper

Line - This connects to the previous line in the circuit. In other words, with the circuit breaker on, this will be your live wires
Load - This connects to the next outlets in the series. Anything on this end will be protected by the GFCI

Also, make sure you've not reversed the hot and neutral.


As an alternative, requiring rather less work, how about this:

get some sheets of rigid insulation such as is used in places like ceiling over a furnace (also fireproof but you don't care). Attach these in an unobtrusive way to the back of the sofa.
place some wooden blocks between the radiator (or wall) and the feet of the sofa to act as standoffs.

This way the radiator has plenty of room for convection and the sofa is fully protected.


Is a ground required when replacing an old single pole single throw switch?

Because you are replacing the switch, not installing a new switch, you can get away without a ground. You should install a nonconducting, noncombustible faceplate though.

NEC 2008
404.9 (B) Exception.  Where no means exists within the snapswitch enclosure for connecting to the equipment grounding
conductor or where the wiring method does not include or provide an
equipment grounding conductor, a snap switch without a connection to
an equipment grounding conductor shall be permitted for replacement
purposes only. A snap switch wired under the provisions of this
exception and located within reach of earth, grade, conducting floors,
or other conducting surfaces shall be provided with a faceplate of
nonconducting, noncombustible material or shall be protected by a
ground-fault circuit interrupter.

If you were installing a new switch, you would be required to provide an equipment grounding conductor at the outlet. And the switch would have to be properly grounded, in accordance with the National Electrical Code (NEC).
There was a time when an equipment grounding conductor was not required at each outlet, so it's fairly common to come across this situation (especially when working in older homes).  You'll often see exceptions like this written into codes, so as not to require a full rewire just to replace a switch.
New info, Better answer
If you are replacing a switch a ground is not required, as per the above exception. However, if you're installing a switch; replacement or otherwise, into a metal box that is grounded. The switch will be ground via the devices yoke and mounting screws. So if the metal box is grounded, the switch is also grounded.
If the box is nonmetallic, and there are other grounded devices within the same enclosure. You can ground the new switch using a jumper between the switches grounding screw, and the other devices grounding screw.  Just keep in mind, that you can't terminate two conductors under a single screw terminal. So if you do this, you'll have to use pigtails to make the connection between the devices.


The drain valve could be sticking. There is usually a solenoid that opens the drain valve at the end of the cycle and the water is pumped out instead of circulating.

If the solenoid or the valve is malfunctioning then water could be left after the cycle or the dishwasher doesn't fill as far as it should.

Experiment some more but it sounds like a repair is in your future.

Good luck!


Is building regulations approval needed for replacing gas fire with log burner

Is building regulations approval needed for replacing gas fire ... ?

Permanently removing a gas fire involves capping off or removing the gas pipework and testing it to ensure it is safe.

  80 Gas work should only be undertaken:
  (a) by a person who has successfully completed an industry-recognised
  training course followed by assessment of competence. Training that
  leads to assessment of competence in safe gas work should be
  recognised by the industry’s standards setting body; or
  (b) in the case of a currently or previously registered person, where they
  have proved competence through a certification scheme; or
  (c) for those working at premises that fall outside the scope of the
  Regulations (see regulation 2(4) and associated guidance), by a person
  who has successfully completed an appropriate full training course
  followed by assessment of competence.

Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 Approved Code of Practice and guidance

Unless you are a landlord, there is no legal requirement for a certificate for the gas installation.

My guess is that the buyer wants evidence from a qualified engineer that any remaining gas pipes and equipment are safe and that the chimney flue was properly adapted for the change in use.

Whether you pay someone qualified to inspect and report on the work depends on how much you want to appease this particular potential buyer. I guess it is something that is likely to come up again though.


Does it matter where is live and where is neutral when wiring an electronic ballast?

Are you in the USA? If so, then you won't have a neutral because it requires 230 volts.


Installing drain saddle for Reverse Osmosis (RO) system in brass metal pipes

Yes, it's fine to install it on a metal pipe.

Drill the hole on the top of the horizontal drain between the garbage disposal and main sink.

If you have problems for some reason, or are still worried about it not being plastic, then replace that one metal pipe with a plastic one.


How to ground a kitchen exhaust blower fan?

If it's bolted to a grounded metal case, it's grounded.


What are things i can do myself to keep mobile home from falling apart until i can get money to repair

Post an add on craigslist in  the barter section,  just ask if if there are any kind souls who may have time to assist you in doing some upkeep.
There are people in the world that are kind and willing to help. I see posts on craigslist occasionally from folks offering to help the more money challenged of us.
Since money is tight is there anything such as skills, talents, things or space you can offer in trade to a handyman?
Maybe reach out to local civic groups or church's.
Your question is very broad and we can not really give specific advise on each thing with out a very detailed description of the problem. If you have   questions  about specific issues you can post  about each of them  to ask   if it is something you can do yourself with a minimal investment of materials.


Why do some multi-zone heating systems have multiple circulators?

Systems engineering tradeoffs.
In general, one pump per zone will cost more, but can (in theory) be matched more perfectly to the zone (but there are only a few typical sizes of pump, so that may not be all that perfect, after all.)
One pump to feed them all will be the right sized pump as some set of zones, and more or less than ideal with other sets open or closed - however, there's a functional range, and if properly designed either method can be operated in safe ranges.
In general, most heating system designers are not too concerned with how much power the pumps use, (they don't pay for it, and it's not generally obvious to the end-user) which can be another downside (for the end-user) of a particularly inappropriate choice of pump(s) for the job. Designers are concerned with not running the pumps into cavitation which can destroy them, and the fluid velocity in the pipes. In some cases more pumps may mean less wasted power, but without working that out the greater initial expense of more pumps tends to be what's controlling.


2 wires going into one terminal on a single pole switch?

The 2 wires are normally your hot coming in and then going on to another device the single wire is usually the switched hot to the light. I do not like back stabs; they usually hold up on lighting only circuits, but when the other wire is to a chain of outlets, all the power is going through that stab, a very tiny contact area. The stabs get hot and quit working and even melt switches but more often receptacles. I like to use a short piece of wire with a wirenut connecting the hot coming in and out and the short wire, or pigtail, to the switch.  A lighting circuit for a room is usually fine if one must use backstabs, but I prefer the screw terminals even though they take longer to install myself and the electricians I work with use pigtails.

It could be a single hot going out to 2 different lights, also, but the first scenario is the most common.


From the description provided for the existing old switch it sounds like that was wired as a simple switch loop. As such there is no NEUTRAL in the switch box. The HOT black lead is bringing the line into the box and the other black wire is connecting out to the load (light). That load black wire may actually be a white wire that has been sleeved with a black tubing, painted black or taped with black electrical tape.

From the installation sheet for the DW1KD the switch is a smart switch and will require a NEUTRAL in order for it to function.

You will not be able to get this to work with the existing wiring. Since the HOT is clearly off in the electrical box at the light you will have to work out running a new cable from the light box to the switch box that has a four conductors (HOT - Black; NEUTRAL - White; LOAD - Red; GND - bare wire).

From the above diagram note that the Red wire of the new switch goes to the load. The Black wire on the switch goes to the HOT entering your switch box. The White wire from your new switch has to be connected to the new NEUTRAL that will be provided by the new cable that you need to run.


Are Sonoff smart switches actually UL listed?

No listing for UL, ETL or CSA listing just the meaningless CE , I also did not see an FCC certification when trying to look up their noise emission / bandwidth certification, these things should not be any place other than China.


Why is my kitchen island sink gurgling when my dishwasher is draining?

There's a blockage in the venting where the island ties-in. The 2 locations are commonly vented together, due to that loop under the island sink. A T-fitting instead of a Wye may have been used to tie-in the island and this is why only a Wye or directional fitting should only ever be used.


What can be done about unusual toilet noise?

It may be possible to clean the fill valve. Some models have a removable cap with the water to the toilet turned off remove the cap. then put a cup or jar over the valve and turn the water on water rocks & rust scale will usually flush out with a cycle of the float fully opening. Then turn off the water and replace the cap. If your cap is not removable replacement is the next option.


A wet dry shop vac pushed into the toilet trap while turned on may grab the cars I have actually done this several times some times they get stuck in the vacuum hose sometimes hanging on at the opening. Try putting the hose in several times until no cars come out, if you come up empty they may be in the pipe below.


I had the same thing happen with my furnace and I had to have the blower replaced. A very expensive lesson to learn about changing filters often.

The tech told me that if it tried to start and did not pick up on any air movement it would automatically shut off the furnace.

The lack of full air flow first burned out the blower and then I lack of the blower operating kept the furnace from firing.


Fill in the holes with broken-off toothpicks and wood glue, then drill new holes a little farther away and re-install the hinges.


How to best insulate an exposed waterpipe during the cold season

Insulation only helps keep in heat, but if there is no source of heat (ie: cold water or standing hot water), it will eventually cool and freeze.  Your options are:

Burry it below the frost line (take advantage of geothermal heating)
Install heat tape (electronic pipe heater)
Keep it running (or have it intermittently run; running water won't freeze easily, but this is a huge waste)


Wiring a 3 way Leviton VPT24-1PZ Vizia 24-Hour Programmable Light Switch

To use this system at all, two things must be true.

Power must enter the 3-way complex at one of the switches, not the lamp. AND
You must use one of the two available models of matching smart remotes, not a plain 3-way.

If either of those is false, you bought the wrong family of smart switch. Try one that uses wireless or powerline communication.  This is the end of the answer for you.

Now, this family of switches has a master (4 wire + ground) and a remote (3 wire + ground). You must use both and You get no choice of which goes where.

Both 3-way switch boxes will have one cable that is /3; that is the colors are black white red.  We will totally redefine how its colors are used, to accommodate the needs of the new smart switch.  I need you to mark the red wires with alternating bands of yellow tape, so its color is red-yellow.

One of the boxes has the /2 cable going up to the lamp.  It will be black and white.  Mark the black wire solid red.  This box is the one that must take the master smart switch.   This box now has a red wire, a red/yellow wire, some number of blacks, and some number of whites.   The master switch has those same exact colors, thanks to the magic of colored tape. Match 'em up.  All blacks together under a wirenut, etc.

Now the remote.  If you are using Leviton's "Coordinating Remote Switch", with 4 wires + ground, then you need to cap off and tuck back the red and black wires. You will not be using them and do not connect them in this next step.  If it is Leviton's "Matching Remote Switch" (why are there two kinds??) then do not cap any wires, you will use them all.

The other box will now have a red/yellow, some number of blacks, and some number of whites. The smart switch remote goes here.  Same deal.


How should I wire 2 switches that control 1 light and 1 receptacle?

You forgot to break the tab off on the outlet.

You want the red line to control one half the duplex?   And the Black to feed the other continuously?   There's a little copper tab between the hot screws that you remove to do this.


Water heater requiring 30A breaker running on 20A

The standard 240V water heater only has one speed (choice of amp draw): 23A.  That is how all such hot water heaters are sized.  The reason is they want it as fast as possible while falling within a statutory 24A limit.

Edit: ThreePhaseEel brings up an interesting point.  A 30A hot water heater implies that it is 240V, because it's cheaper to bump volts to 240 before amps to 30. However, you didn't tell us the old service was 240V (meaning a 2-pole "double" breaker in the panel).  If this is in fact a 120V heater, that changes things.  I'll describe this difference inside this box.
First, make sure this is a "plain old resistive heater" and not a hybrid or heat-pump heater. The trick I'm about to describe won't work with a hybrid.
Now I said "resistive" - the heating element is a resistor, which is the simplest electronic device on earth, and it follows simple rules, starting with Ohm's Law: Voltage = Current x Resistance.  Resistance is defined by how the heater is built.   So what happens if we run it on 120V?
Well, since Resistance is fixed -- if Voltage drops by 50%, so must Current.  That means on 120V, this same water heater will draw 11.5 amps, and will be within safety limits of a 15A/120V circuit, and will not trip breakers.  However since useful power = voltage x current, and both those are halved, useful power is 1/4.
What does that mean for heater performance?  Assuming it's Energy Star, the insulation is tip top.  It will reach target temperature ........... eventually. And it will take 4 times longer to get there.   You'll want to follow the conservation tips in my last paragraph.
This use on 120V is safe, and it's safe indefinitely.

Now back to the 240V scenario.
All of the advice to follow violates Code. The only Code-correct solution is correct cable and breaker, but you knew that.
So expect a lot of breaker trips.
Wait 1 hour before resetting it.  That is because of this particular situation - we know exactly why it is tripping, so the consequences of resetting it too soon are also known.
If you upgrade the cable to #10 copper (10/2 will suffice), then you can reset it as often as you please.  I am assuming perhaps it is hard to obtain the right breaker due to obsolescence (PushMatic) or complexity (quadplex).
If you have a Federal Pacific, Zinsco or Challenger panel, those panels are dangerous and you are already playing with fire, so don't push your luck with those panels.
You will have fewer trips if you take great pains to use hot water VERY sparingly - follow California drought or boondocking-in-RV rules. Get wet, shut the water off, lather up, then do a quick rinse... Select cold water in dishwasher and washing machine... Let the soap do the cleaning not the heat... Etc.


Is there a temporary solution to alleviate wet carpet stench in the basement?

Most critical to removing the smell is to dry the carpet quickly.  I dealt with a flooded basement last fall and had good luck with the following.

Close off any a/c intake vents in the basement to keep from sucking mold & mildew into the rest of the house.
Use a wet/ dry shop vac or carpet cleaner to vacuum out as much water as possible. If you go slow you can suck it almost completely dry.
Place several fans to circulate air around the room and directly over the wet spot.
If you can, arrange fans to circulate fresh outside air in and wet stale air out of the basement.
The faster you can dry everything, the less smell you'll have.
The restoration company may need to run fans and dehumidifiers for a few days, then spray a fungicide to prevent future growth.


Change a outside 220v line from hard wire to a irrigation motor to add plug and receptacle

First -- you just need a solid place to attach the box to.  A 4x4 post cemented into the ground in the correct place certainly qualifies! (It also means you won't have one of those disasters where someone nails a conduit-supported outdoor receptacle with a piece of lawn equipment and the conduit breaks, leaving exposed wiring around)

Second, you'll want a weatherproof box (they all have conduit knockouts) and a "while in use" bubble cover as this is a wet location.  (You may need a reducer, though, if your conduit is too big for the weatherproof box to fit onto it.)  Use the same material for the box as the existing conduit -- metal boxes for metal conduit, PVC boxes for plastic conduit.  The box should have holes on it which can be screwed to the 4x4 -- if the hole spacing is too wide for the post, simply use a piece of scrap 2x6 as a mounting-bracket.

Third, you'll be putting a single 6-30R receptacle in this weatherproof box, and using a matching 6-30P plug on the motor's cord.  (NEMA 6 is a 3-wire HOT/HOT/GROUND receptacle -- this is correct for a 240VAC only circuit.)  You may wish to use a L6-30 instead of a straight blade 6-30 here, as well, considering how infrequently this device is being plugged and unplugged.

Finally, make sure there's a small hole in the bottom of the box so that water that does enter can leave promptly (no bigger than a quarter inch).


Why is one bedroom colder than the rest of the house?

In my experience as a Home performance contractor, situations like you describe are almost always a problem of air sealing. There is likely something about the way the room was constructed that allows more air infiltration. Possible causes would be an attic stairs located in the room, one of the exterior walls having an overhang, the room is connected to a cantilevered porch or maybe it's over a garage. It's highly unlikely that 8 feet of properly insulated wall would cause the temperature differences you're describing.


Is there a specific NEC code specifying the distance between water heaters and electrical panels?

This is a VERY misinterpreted section of the code, especially by lay people and home inspectors. Most homeowners and likewise simply think a water heater cannot be near a panel, for what reason I don't know.

Basically, the panel can be anywhere in the 30" width working space. There is no mention of center of the panel or otherwise. Meaning, the panel can be at the extreme side of the 30" space as long as the space is clear for 30".

Here is a clear graphic from ©Mike Holt: