How can I connect 2AWG cable to my 100A panel?

Wait. What?  You need two 120V circuits at 20A?   At 240V, that's only 20A. You don't double both of them.

Your small loads are your enemy

US Mains power has two opposing 120V "hot" wires on either side of a neutral wire.  All of them suffer voltage drop in proportion to amps actually flowed (which is what we measure). In a perfect world, you have two 120V loads almost equal.  In that case power comes down hot1, passes through appliance 1 via neutral to appliance 2 and returns on hot2.  You have voltage drop, but it occurs off of 240V, so it's not so bad.

However, if you only have 1 large load plugged in, you have a problem. Current comes from hot1, and returns on neutral, and the voltage drop hits you harder because it's a percentage of 120V instead of 240V.   This necessitates stupid-large wires.

I thought of using a multi-wire branch circuit and quickly realized the above is going to be a deal-killer.  Then I thought "A subpanel, then", but a subpanel doesn't fix it either.  A transformer does. If a transformer is involved, it will only pull off the 240V supply, and thus will distribute any 120V load evenly for the lower voltage drop.   Needless to say I prefer a transformer based solution especially since your power needs are right-sized for the 5KVA transformers often seen on Craigslist for $100ish.  However, there is also a 2-transformer solution that will greatly cut your wire costs (or alternately, give  you a solid expansion path on existing wire).

Multi-wire branch circuit

In this you run a single "super circuit" consisting of 2 hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground wire.  You do not need a subpanel or ground rod by Code, but a ground rod is a good idea, as ground differentials could be dangerous.

You wire one set of receptacles to hot1 and neutral.  You wire the other set of receptacles to hot2 and neutral.

Design for the load you expect to be normal, not the breaker rating, and spec voltage drop for that.  At the very least you shouldn't plan to load a breaker beyond 80%, so 16A is the largest number you should use.  Given the distance I'd be happy with 5-6% voltage drop.  If it starts proposing #8 or larger copper wire, switch to aluminum and price both ways.

What do you put for voltage? Because of the problem mentioned above, you really need to specify 120V, and that's where you get murdered.  16A/120V/400'/6% = 4AWG Aluminum @ 4.88%.  Jiminy Cricket!

Mind you, if you had two large loads going, that would halve the voltage drop to 2.44%, because the drop would be applying to 240V not 120V.

In a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit  you are breakering that for 20A because 20A sockets require a 20A breaker. That's all you'll get out of that. Ouch.

Subpanel

With only one large load, all the problematic math above still exists.  A subpanel is not a magic wand to fix that.

However, a subpanel will have you put a 20A breaker on each receptacle circuit. That complies with the breaker requirement. And that means the feeder breaker can be bumped to the wire capacity of 60A, because feeder breaker ampacity doesn't care about voltage drop.  That means you can put more circuits in it. For instance again, assuming 4AWG Aluminum, if you add a 31A/240V kiln (using a 40A breaker), you'll get 4.72% drop. That with a 12A/120V load running will cause 5.7% drop to the kiln and 4.2% drop to the blower.  I could live with that.

One Transformer

OK.  Let's say you fit a transformer at the gazebo.  Since you want two 20A@120V circuits, that being 4800W or 4.8 KVA, a 5KVA transformer will suffice.   It takes a 240V-only feed (you only need 3 wires; the wire savings helps) and provides 240V/120V to the subpanel-- hold on, that'd be a MAIN panel since it's transformer-fed, so you tie neutral and ground.

Now, your worst-case 16A/120V load gets turned into an 8A/240V load, and #10Cu feeder  (though it's about the same cost as #6Al, so why are we bothering?) would suffice for 2.8% drop.  However if you are heavily loading both 20A circuits, it's a wash - 16A each = 5.6% drop with #10Cu, unless we bumped to 8Cu or 6Al, for 3.68% drop.   And this won't leave you any headroom for anything else.

If you want to add a bigger 240V-only load later, don't feed it through the transformer. Have the house supply come to an additional 240V-only - well, it'll be a subpanel since it's directly wired from the house. That subpanel then serves your new big loads, and also the transformer that's right there.  The transformer carries on making 120V power for the 120V loads.

TWO transformers

We use two 120/240-240/480 transformers of the 5KVA variety ($100ish each) with the primaries jumpered to 480, and back to back. All this should be fully enclosed and locked down so nobody can get to the primary side of the transformers.    At the house, we jumper the transformer secondary for 240V, and feed it with a 240V/20A breaker. (4800W ~= limit of a 5000VA transformer). At the gazebo, we connect that transformer's secondary same as above, to a subpanel.

Now, a single 16A@120V load is transformed to 4A@480V.  Heavy use of both circuits, 16A@120V*2, loads it to 8A@480V.  Let's run that through the voltage drop calc: 400'/480V/8A/5% => 14AWG @ 3.57% or 2.31% @ 12 AWG.  That makes for rather cheap wire!

Also, we only need 2 wires - the 480V run is isolated from both ends, so there's no need to run a ground wire.

Did you catch the part where we just used two #14 wires to carry 3840W 400'.

Now, let's think toward expansion.  Let's say instead, we get two 15KVA transformers (pricey) and do the same thing, aiming to deliver 60A@240V to the gazebo.  How will that punch down? 60A breaker means realistically 48A max load, so 48A@240V becomes 24A@480V.  Voltage calc sez.... 4.20% @ 10AWG, or 2.76% @ 8Cu or 6Al.

ditto ditto 25 KVA transformer and 100A (practically 80A) - 40A@480V = 4.60%@ 8Cu/6Al, or 2.95%@ 6Cu/4Al.

So... 6-4 AWG Al is a solid choice that will last through almost anything you'd plan to do with it, and if you need to upgrade, you can just throw transformers at it instead of pulling wire.


What is the rated power of American central air-conditioning control circuit?

Many systems have a single transformer located in the furnace / fan coil unit.  That transformer should be stamped with a "VA" rating.  Typical sizes range around 40VA to 75VA.

Roughly speaking, for electronic loads one should assume a power factor of about 85% (electronic control board, nest thermostat, etc).

The total continuous current a 24 VAC control transformer can supply in a residential system is given by:

I = (VA Rating) x (Power Factor) / (Secondary Voltage)

Or in the case of a 40VA transformer:

I = (40 VA) x (0.85) / (24 V)

I = 1.4 amps

This amount includes the controls installed in the system, and there may not be much to spare for additional loads.  When in doubt, increase the VA rating of the transformer to allow for the additional load.

Many electronic loads are not continuous and in those applications a peak current of 30% - 50% higher may be acceptable as long as the sustained load does not exceed the rating.

More:

Q:  "how much power could Nest get [from the HVAC transformer]?"

A:  It varies wildly and in my thinking this is a secondary design consideration.  The 18 gauge thermostat wire has a resistance of about 0.6ohms/100ft, so roughly 3 amps is the maximum current that can be drawn before the supply voltage drops more than 10%.  Deduct several hundred mA for contactor loads, and the thermostat could use perhaps 2.5 amps, not accounting for the system transformer size.  If the thermostat is a really great product, people will upgrade their system transformers to install it. To improve market adoption, later revisions could be lower power units that would not require a system transformer upgrade.  In the case of the Nest, the manufacturer resorted to using what looks like a LiPo battery.  LiPo batteries are expen$ive, but the marketing guys must have felt it was worth it.


How do I insulate interior basement walls that are not against the exterior walls?

I think based on the comments I better understand your scenario now.

Building Science has a lot of great information on basement insulation and the suggested method is to use XPS foam against the walls, optionally bats between the studs and no vapor barrier (since the XPS foam is the vapor barrier).

I would suggest that you use 1 1/2 - 2" XPS foam against the walls, and then space your studs another inch or so away from the wall (to allow your water to drain). If you need higher R values then the XPS provides you can use bats between the studs and I would suggest something like Roxul insulation which is stone wool instead of fiberglass since it is not affected by moisture like fiberglass is.

It would also be advisable to use steel studs so that they don't rot should they come in contact with moisture. You might also opt to put the bottom plate on top of a piece of XPS foam so that there is a less likelihood of the metal studs rusting.


Why is my AC only blowing out Ice cold air and freezing over AC lines?

If the outdoor unit continues running while the indoor blower is stopped it would indeed start looking like a freezer. If there's been work done recently on the thermostat and related wiring then it could be that a mistake was made which causes the compressor to run continuously. If this problem has developed spontaneously, a likely cause could be that the contactor in the outdoor compressor unit has welded itself closed. That's the equivalent of the power switch being stuck in the on position.

An HVAC contractor or other person comfortable with a volt meter should be able to identify pretty quickly whether the call for cooling is stuck on, or whether it's the contactor itself that has failed. There should be a pair of small-gauge wires going into the compressor unit. If there's a voltage showing between those two wires (about 24 volts ac), or if disconnecting one of them causes the compressor to stop running, then the call for cooling is stuck on -- a thermostat failure or a wiring problem would be likely. If instead there's no significant voltage between the two wires then the contactor is stuck and should be replaced.


Can I put a window a/c through the wall?

Apparently window and wall a/c units are not interchangeable, although
I don't have the details of the difference.

EDIT Window units are designed to take advantage of the fact that a window is a thin partition; vents on the outside of the a/c case can be close to the inside part of the a/c unit, but still be outside (where they have to be). This may allow the window units to be cheaper. In contrast a wall can be 6" thick or more; wall units must have all vents close to the back of the unit. BTW I always thought that the vents in the side of a window unit were for intake of air at ambient temperature to then be directed through the condenser coil at the back plane of the unit to be exhausted out the back (now hotter than ambient), but in fact some of the side vent area may also be used for expelling air which cools motors. It could be that in a window unit the venting on one side is devoted to intake of air for the condenser coil and the venting on the other side is for exhaust. This would prevent the hot exhaust air being pulled in the intake for the condenser cooling air.

  Window ACs vs. Through-the-Wall ACs

  It's easy to compare window and thru-wall ACs, because they're similar
  in cooling capacity and size, but through-the-wall units tend to be
  slightly more efficient because they create an airtight seal in the
  room.

  The major differences between these ACs involve installation and
  venting. Window ACs fit through a window and don’t require permanent
  installation, while thru-wall ACs are actually built into the
  wall—making them popular in rooms without windows or for people who
  prefer to leave their windows alone.

  Wall air conditioners typically only vent warm air through the back of
  the unit, while window ACs vent from the sides and back. For this
  reason, window and thru-wall models are not interchangeable (even if
  they're the same size). In most cases, if a window unit vents out its
  side, the wall will block the vents and cause overheating. Select
  window AC models can be installed through a wall, but only if they
  have a slide-out chassis wall sleeve. Read more on wall sleeves.

https://www.sylvane.com/thru-wall-air-conditioner-buying-guide.html#vs
.


Get Local Building Dept. approval, they'll direct you on this as well. But, 4" of tamped sand only works if it's retained, it washes away. Tamped 3/4" jagged gravel at 4" deep is the best choice. The bigger issue is tying the building down from wind loft. This is where a concrete filled cinderblock & poured concrete foundation may be required. Don't mess with the Town, they'll fine you $1000's & also make you tear it down regardless of how right it's built.


How do I bring a recessed wall outlet flush with newly installed paneling?

There are box extenders which can be screwed onto the existing box.  They can be screwed directly on top of the old box.

Just do a search for "electrical box extenders" and you will find plenty.


How do I prevent shadowed areas when installing recessed lighting in a vaulted ceiling?

You need to locate the fixtures so that the cone of light lands where you want it.   The bulbs (or fixtures if it's an integrated unit) should mention the angle of the beam (for example 30 degrees), and may have a chart showing the diameter of the light at different distances.  Use this to determine your fixture locations.

In a flat-ceilinged kitchen, recessed lights would be located so the center of the beam is around the front edge of the counter and the light reaches to the back.   In your case, you'll want to make sure that the counter is lit, and the light isn't coming from behind the person at the counter, creating shadows.   You may need to get trim kits that allow the light to be angled to compensate for the angle of the ceiling.

When remodeling our kitchen, I used Google Sketchup to make a scale drawing of the kitchen layout, and checked our planned fixture layout by adding a circle showing the coverage of each fixture's pattern; this was very useful in visualizing where we might have coverage issues.

Be sure to plan for some overlap between the beams, especially in work areas, as the light is weaker toward the outside of the pattern.

Edit: In addition to your recessed lights, you may want to consider task lighting for key areas, such as a pendant or other fixture above the sink, under-cabinet lights for work areas on your counters, and possibly over any eat-in area (counter, table, etc).   In addition to extra light when you need it, they give you the option to turn the main lighting off when you're not using the area for food prep.    The downside is that you can end up with a lot of light switches.


Need ideas on putting drywall on old walls with plywood

It would be best to remove the paneling.  The plywood paneling is probably 1/4" thick.  You can buy drywall @ 3/8" thick, so not a huge change, just an extra 1/4".  In addition to your door jambs, you probably have electrical outlets to account for.  Unless they have exceptionally long screws, you'll run into some trouble there.

Removing the paneling isn't really hard work, or even too long a task.  As suggested in the comments, it might be helpful to see what is behind that paneling so you know where to be careful.  It might be quite insightful.  At a time like this, you also have the opportunity to lay in any structured cabling you may want (cat6, cable, etc).

The paneling may be behind your door jamb casing (the part on the same plane as the wall).  I've seen it both ways.  You'll know pretty quick once you start removing a panel next to a door.  The casing is removed by cutting both sides with a razor knife (cuts free paint and caulk), then using a small pry bar or flat head screw driver to move the casing away from the wall.  It breaks easily, so careful and listen for cracking sounds.  It may be required to shim out the casing when you reattach it.  You can cut strips from the paneling to do this.

Just a thought, and it may not apply to you, but if you're hesitant about removing the paneling based on time, the time it takes to remove the paneling is nothing, absolutely nothingm compared to the time to properly do those drywall joints (oh, and the mess!)

As for the seam where the brick is, some shoe molding should work.  Based on the picture, it will be fine at the ceiling, but I didn't see a picture of your baseboards.  If you're experienced with a coping saw, you should be OK with the baseboards too.

Good luck!


Is flexible gas pipe safe to use for main or long runs?

There are two types of tubing most people think of, when you say "flexible gas tubing".  The first and more common, are flexible gas connectors.

These guys are typically 3-6' long, and are used to connect appliances to the gas piping. They are only to be used as a short link between the fixed piping and the appliance, and so are considered a "connector" and not true piping.
The other product; that may not be as well known, is Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST).

This stuff is made up of semi-rigid corrugated stainless steel tubing surrounded by a polyethylene jacketing, and is designed and approved to be used as a gas piping method.  There may be problems caused by lightning strikes, but the solution is to simply have an Electrician install a bonding device.
The author of the linked article seems to be unaware of the differences between these two types of tubing, and is simply spreading misinformation.  While it's true that you wouldn't want to plumb your house using only flexible gas connectors, this is not what's being proposed.
If you smell gas, evacuate the building and call 911 (emergency services).


Temporarily Unmounting Garage Door Opener for Repair

I found the answer at http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/load/garages/msg0321575526348.html?38 - here it is:

First off you don't have to replace the worm gear. Second, you need to make sure that the bushings in the gear kit are not worn. You can tell by looking and the very top of the unit, you will see ground up metal, or on the top of your drive gear will have a bunch of ground up metal. If this is the case you will need to get a 41C4220A which is the complete gear kit.

Otherwise replacing the gear is a cinch.

Unplug the opener and pull the cover
off.
You will see two roll pins in the
shaft that the gear slides onto.
Position the gear so that you can
use a 5/32nd punch to drive out the
bottom roll pin. Your gear maybe
worn enough that you can grab it by
hand and position it, or you may
have to hit the opener button and
stop it so that it is in position.
At the bottom of that shaft you have
a smaller gear that drives the limit
assembly. Pull the triton shaped
keeper out and slide it off the
shaft.
Remove the limit switches. They snap
into the bottom of the motor
housing. You remove them by lightly
squeezing them together on the end
closest the gear you just removed.
Leave all the wires connected to the
limit switches. Unplug the RPM
Sensor. It is located to the left of
that big black cup on the back of
the motor shaft, it has a four pin
connector.
On the left and right side of the
motor housing you will see four
black bolts holding the motor
housing up. Use a 5/16th socket and
remove all four of them.
Slide the motor housing off the
shaft (you can let the motor hang)
and then the gear slides off.
Lube up the new gear with the
grease in the box and reverse the
above procedure.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE BLACK CUP ON THE BACK OF THE MOTOR SHAFT PRESSED ALL THE WAY ON AND THAT THE FOUR PIN CIRCUIT BOARD NEXT TO IT IS PLUGGED IN, OTHERWISE IT WON'T WORK PROPERLY.*

Check the bushing in the motor housing that the gear shaft slides through, sometimes this has to be replaced but, very rarely in my experiences.

Don't worry about using anything else in that box.


Refrigerator on GFCI is tripping other AFCI breakers in the house

Because it happens when you open the door, it is more than likely caused by the light.
There seems to be a known issue affecting your Whirlpool WRF736SDAM11 refrigerator.

Under limited, varying circumstances, the LED Driver Board may produce signal noise which can produce a false trip of an AFCI breaker.
Correction: After verifying the refrigerator is supplied by an AFCI breaker, order Service Kit #W10810444 and install in accordance with instructions supplied with kit. Note: AFCI breakers are different than GFCI breakers. GFCI breakers are not affected. AFCI breakers are typically labeled “Arc Fault” (Figure 1) or “AFCI” (Figure 2) on the breaker face and have a test button.

Service Pointer - W10806461 (Tripping of AFCI Breakers) (pdf)
As for the whereabouts of the mentioned Service Kit #W10810444  - I've not been able to find an image for what it actually is. It is described as CORD-POWER but it will need to be something more to actually solve your problem. (some ebay results are just a simple wire cord - don't buy that). here's a link to one for sale and another
Alternatively, you might be able to fix it by unplugging the LED in the fridge. This might not work - especially if the LED driver isn't actually on the same chip - but if it fixes your issue, you can be sure that your issue is related to the LED driver. If you are in a bind, you could just put a battery powered motion sensing light in the fridge to replace the built in one - not elegant but doable.
Noise from electronics tripping AFCI breakers is rather common. I visited the Square D (Schneider) facility ~6 years ago. They had a room full of household electrical loads (ceiling fans, sump pumps, TVs) to test their breakers with. They said they once went to a guy's house and bought the $5,000 TV from him that was tripping his breaker so they could fix the issue and test improvements to the breaker design.
That is to say one option is to replace the AFCI circuit breaker - they likely have a new and improved revision that won't be affected by the LED driver in your fridge. If you want, contact the manufacture of the breaker and inquire whether they can offer you a replacement, discount coupon or other resolution.


How to fix a poor plumbing installation resulting in severe odor problems?

On top of looking for a dried out trap I would check your vents. I had a squirrel build a nest in a vent pipe and plug it so when you flushed it pulled the water out of the other traps and let the smell in. I had to make a cap with vent holes to keep the little bugger out.


Replacing a wall outlet with three black and three white wires with a smart outlet with one white and one black wire

If your existing blacks were all on 1 side of the receptacle on the brass screw and the whites on the other side silver screw than yes you can tie them together.
Why 3 cables , possibly 1 feeder the one that supplies power , one going to the next receptacle and one feeding a light switch. This would be quite common.
I would say possibly every house I have wired has at least one or 2 of these configurations.


How to remove soft close drawer slide (no levers)?

Turns out all you need to do is lift the drawer up when it's at full extension. It takes a bit of force. To put it back in, you just slide it in. Here's a video I found:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B0Nym9vp0s


What size rubber grommet will a 3/4" PVC pipe fit (water tight) through?

In these situations, I use bulkhead fittings. It saves the annoyance to getting this stuff to seal properly, any slight leverage and there's now a leak. These are available in several sizes at most plumbing supply stores. If there's a gentle curve to the surface this has to penetrate, I've used a large O-ring instead of the supplied gasket. They're available as glue type fittings, or internally threaded.


Can I install outlets in my window wells?

You wish to install a weatherproof outlet below-grade in a basement egress window well that is prone to flooding. Apply NEC Article 682 which instructs you to determine the electrical datum and install any non-submersible devices at least 2 ft above the datum plane.

For example, suppose a pump fails with the outlet energized. In that case your flood line could reach either the top of the egress window or the top of the egress window well. The electrical datum would be 2 ft above that line and your weatherproof outlet needs to be installed above this plane.

If the sump pump is submersible you will need to install a local disconnect This will need to be no more than 30" from the pump so probably a switch within the weatherproof box.

Consider whether the outlet and pump will impede egress from the basement in an emergency. Can the window be opened from inside? If the pump blocks a portion of the window or well reduce the effective size accordingly and then determine whether the window and well continue to meet local standards for egress. Not every window well must qualify as an egress window but there will need to be at least one that does. See section R310 of the International Residential Code and/or any applicable local codes.


Can I unwarp sliding pocket doors so that they move freely once more?

I had the same problem, and was able to resolve the problem by counter-bending the door.  You can try it in the frame, or you can remove the door and use some wood you might have laying around.  If you do it in the frame, you won't be able to operate the door while you're working on it, and it will probably take a few days. But the idea is to stick some wood or something to make the door bow the other way.  You'll need to be creative so you don't scrape-up the door. If you can figure a way to counter-bow the door by hand, then slip the scraps of wood in there, that would be good.  Maybe put the top and bottom scraps in there, then get someone to heave on the middle section while you slipped another scrap of wood in there.  Trying it in the jamb might take longer because you can't get that much of a counter bend in it, due to the frame only being so wide.  Taking it out of the jamb might be faster, since you can get more of a counter bend, but obviously removing pocket doors can be tricky.


Should I reroute my condensate line to prevent freezing?

With my furnace, I diverted the drain line into a 5 gallon bucket which I used to flush toilets.  You could install a wye and a valve or two to make the condensate drain into a bucket inside the house on the coldest days. This may be a little too high efficiency, Worked for me.  The tricky part is remembering to check the bucket.


Can you run an individual wire to link smoke detector together?

Even if the wire ends up only having a low voltage on it, it will be terminated and spliced in the same electrical boxes as the white and black high voltage wires, so it's going to come down to the same rules as any other wire in the circuit.

Using 14/3 is the only right way to do this, unfortunately.  There is an exception for running a ground wire along a different path than the rest of the circuit, but that wouldn't apply here.


How to lift the corner of a heavy stove with a bottle jack

In order of decreasing likelihood of success:

Wrangle a couple of friends, order pizza, have friends help lift the stove, have small child wriggle between the legs and put the floor protector disk in place. Feed everyone some pizza and possibly some adult beverages (if that's your thing) for the adults, and youth beverages for the youth.

Use a long "spud bar" (I have one that's 6' long) or a long pry bar (3' or so). Find something solid under the stove that will take weight (avoid trim, thin vertical side panels, etc). Use a block of wood as a fulcrum to lift the stove corner. Have a helper place the floor protector under the stove. Feed the helper some pizza & a beverage.

Weld together a steel frame to fit inside the oven. Put a steel plate on top of the frame. Weld a vertical framework that the platform will attach to at the door of the oven (with diagonal bracing reaching to the inside back of the oven). Place the bottle jack underneath the steel framework. Lift the stove (the framework will spread the weight across the flat plate against the roof of the oven, minimizing damage, unless there's an electric heating element there - remove if necessary). Insert floor protection disk. Lower the stove. Do something with all that extra steel. No pizza necessary for helpers because no helpers needed (except, perhaps, for moving the lifting framework into place - feed as desired).

Yes, that last one is somewhat facetious. However, I think that's the only reasonable way you'll be able to use the bottle jack to lift the stove without damaging the stove.


Reuse wire nut when adding electrical outlet?

Wire nuts have improved in leaps and bounds in the past 20 years, so if a wire nut is clunky or finicky, I toss it out immediately and replace with new.  I will only reuse one if it seems to be performing "tip top".

It isn't like you have to evaluate each nut individually.  There are probably only 1 or 2 types in use in your building, you soon learn which aren't very good.

Also, wire nuts are only expensive when buying them in small lots, and you're paying for packaging and the big-box store premium.  Once you are buying them in bulk, they're too cheap to care about.

There's also a question of size.  Wire nuts have a working range, and it's best to be sort-of in the middle of their range.  For instance I like yellow wire nuts for 2 wires, maybe 3; for 3 or more I  prefer red.  On the fringe of their working range, they will often give unreliable results.

Lastly, don't use wire nuts for aluminum, even if they're purple.  Use Alumiconns and an AFCI breaker.


Filling gap between Schluter transition strip and drywall

I just did something similar to your option 3. I used setting compound (Durabond 90) to fill the gap and smooth out it as best as a could.

After I got it pretty level I used a layer of paper tape to create a smooth surface, and finished with a small amount of premixed finishing compound then texture in my case.
You can use the Schluter as kind of screed surface after you cover with blue tape. I changed it between each layer to keep the build up of compound minimal.

Since drywall near water is always susceptible I did 2 coats of primer Zins BIN 123

Then 2 coats of a satin

I'll caulk the transition with a thin bead of clear silicone once I finish the floor. If you look closely you can see the wall bends in behind to the Schluter because its not flat but its not as noticeable from far away when finished.


What kind of skylight would allow the most light and heat into my home?

The bigger the skylight and the clearer the glazing, the more light. In your climate you are likely to lose more heat by conduction than you gain by radiation. You will need to get a skylight with insulating glazing of some sort. This reduces heat lost by conduction but still allows almost as much gain by radiation. The best solar gain is had by orienting the surface towards the winter sun, not the summer sun. At your latitude, this is closer to vertical than is practical for a skylight. A sort of "solar scoop" could be constructed, but you will likely lose more heat from the extra wall area than is gained by the increased angle.


How do I clean oil stains in yellow marble?

Marble can be easily stains because of its porous nature.
Try covering the area with corn starch for about 24 hours. It will absorb any excess oil. Then, wash the area with more hot water and detergent. If you still see the stain, dampen a paper towel with acetone. Leave the dampened paper towel on the stain for about an hour, and rinse with water. Repeat this process untill the stain is completely removed.


Add a GFCI Outlet to Existing Electrical Wire

This must be a 15A or 20A circuit.  If it is 25A or larger, you are not allowed to put the usual receptacles on it.

That funny thing is a conduit body.  It's made to ease pulling.  You cannot splice there.

First, pull the wires out of there. Find the ends of the wires (i.e. at the service panel or at the next junction box where they splice) whichever is closer.  Unsplice them and pull them back, all the way to the conduit body and a little past.  That way you don't have to cut the wires.

Then replace the conduit body with something else.  You can change it to a "Tee" conduit body, or to a junction box.  A junction box is a great deal more useful.  You'll need to work in the same kind of system you're already in, e.g. if PVC conduit, then either use PVC boxes, or use PVC threaded ends to go into any other kind of box.

Next, extend the conduit pipe system to your new receptacle.

Now put the original wires back and you're back up.  Now figure out how to add the additional wires.  Now let's review the rules:

You cannot make any splice in a conduit body, only junction boxes.
Each wire must have 6" from where it enters the box, and also stick out of the front of the box at least 3".  At both ends.

So if you added a conduit body "tee" you'll need to run wires from the new receptacle, through the "tee" to a junction box where you can splice. Watch out that you don't overstuff your conduit, the legal max is 9-12 wires depending on several factors.

If you added a new junction box and want to make the splice there, you'll have to see if they left you enough slack for the required lengths in all locations.  If not, you'll have to sacrifice one side or the other, and replace them with longer wires.  Take them into the electrical supply and ask for wires 2 feet longer.  They can help you match up the size and type.  Also get the new wires (same size and type) you'll need for your new branch, if you're branching.
If you know you'll have to sacrifice wire, you can save time at step 1 by doing that first.

You drew it with "wire nuts" or some other kind of splice tying all the wires, and a short pigtail to the receptacle.  That is correct.  You must pigtail the ground, always.  You must pigtail the neutral because this is a multi-wire branch circuit (which have many complicated rules).  You aren't required to pigtail the hot, but it can help especially if it's in a cramped location.  (you can attach the pigtails to the receptacle at your desk.)


How should I connect this HVAC replacement motor?

Is this  a belt drive or direct drive motor? If you look on the motor there should be a wiring schematic/diagram. If it is a direct drive, the colors  determine the shaft speed or the RPM. Usually, Black is high, Blue is medium high, Yellow is medium low, Red is low. Or Red and Yellow could be interchanged. White is the neutral. look on the motor or wiring cover plate. The unused wire is taped off  Yours is probably; black to black, blue to blue, furnace yellow to red or yellow, and white to white. Tape off the last wire. However check the wiring schematic just to be sure. If it a belt drive you will need a wiring schematic. Is the motor a single speed or multi speed? If you are not sure how to hook up the motor seek professional help.


I had a GFCI go bad in a bathroom. The only thing we could ever come up with is that it shared a circuit with the lights. All new wires, no ground faults. Hired an electrician to swap it for me (as I was deployed) and it hasn't faulted since.

Protection circuits do break- like they're supposed to.


Garbage disposal replacement: how much to replace?

I wouldn't rely on the old flange. While the flange itself might be fine, there's plumber's putty between it and the sink. That stuff doesn't last forever, and if you knock it loose replacing the disposal, you'll wind up pulling it off and adding it anyways. The good thing is it's not crazy hard to get off or put the new one on.
The dishwasher compression fitting depends a great deal on what they used and what condition it's in. I was able to keep the same one (rubber) when I replaced mine a few years back, but be sure to inspect it for cracks and leaks. It can't hurt to replace it either.


Furnace blower motor starts but then starts clicking and eventually stops with a loud buzz

The bearings need to be oil at least during your annual maintenance.....the what? Yep once a year your system needs a checkup, just like your car, it needs checked, tuned up and repaired as needed. A lot of people don't realize this. The bearings could be sealed and in that case, your motor might need professional help or replacement. If you pull the motor out, look for oiling holes that you drop oil drops into. Your furnace manual would tell or show where they are. The manual or a label on the furnace should also state the type of oil to use. I have a Carrier furace and a label on the blower housing had this info. Bryant, Payne, Carrier and Day And Night are all maufactured by Carrier Corp.


Rapid loud tapping in wall adjacent to radiator- when tenant above adjusts

It sounds like you have hot water (hydronic) baseboard radiators, something like this:

Tapping noises in these systems typically happen due to thermal expansion. The copper pipes expand as they heat up. If this expansion causes them to rub against floor/wall penetrations, or on parts within the baseboard radiator itself, you can hear a tapping or knocking noise.

Your video sounds similar to what I'd hear in a previous apartment that had noisy baseboard heat. Luckily, I've installed hydronic baseboard in my current home, and I'm happy to report that it can be completely silent if installed properly. You can also fix a noisy installation, but it will likely require access along the entire route to find and eliminate friction points.

If the noise only appeared recently, it's possible that (1) part of the system that was previously unused is getting used more and (2) changes to the system created a new friction point. Since you said there have been adjustments by a new tenant, it's quite possible both of these apply. For example, the system may have had an air pocket that prevented water flow in a part of the system. Bleeding that air would have started heat flowing and causing more thermal expansion. In addition, getting access to the right valves in order to bleed the radiator could have jostled the fin tube from its supports and created some new friction points.

How to fix it: check along the entire loop and eliminate friction points. The most likely friction points and solutions are:

Fin tube supports. The core of the radiator is a copper tube covered in square aluminum fins. The fins are supported from below, usually by a plastic glide -- part #7 in the example below (source: Haydon Corp.), also visible in the first photo as a piece of gray plastic on the bottom of the fins. If the fin tube has slipped off of one of these glides, it may be resting against one of the metal brackets, which could function like a drum during thermal expansion. To fix, remove the front cover of the baseboard and verify that a glide is in place between each vertical support bracket and the finned tube. The front cover is typically snapped onto vertical brackets at the top and bottom and can be removed by hand with gentle prying. (Note: be careful when handling baseboard radiators - they're full of sharp sheet metal! Gloves are recommended.)

Wall or floor penetrations. The radiator will  be supplied by pipes that usually need to go through walls or floors to reach your boiler and continue to service other parts of the building. When a pipe passes through a wall or floor it should be centered within a hole that provides around 1/4" of space around the pipe, so the pipe does not rub against the opening during thermal movement. If you see a pipe resting on an edge of an opening, you can (a) expand the opening or (b) add something soft to cushion the motion and eliminate the noise. Because expanding an opening is often difficult, a good choice for passing is a small section of pipe insulation, stuffed into the penetration around the pipe.
Very long runs. If you have a straight run of, say, 50 feet of finned tubing (perhaps going through some walls, but still pretty straight), the expansion may be significant enough that the plastic glides may not be reliable. In these cases, it's best to add a special expansion coupling to break up the long run. This is the most complex of these typical fixes, because the system will have to be drained, pipes cut, and a new fitting installed (typically soldered).

Most likely, your fix doesn't require opening up walls - just a thorough inspection and a few adjustments, and maybe a few inches of pipe insulation strategically placed. A plumber with experience in hydronic heating system should be able to help with this if needed. Good luck!


What could be causing my solid stained doors to make cracking noises?

One possibility is a slight cracking of the stain or finish coat on as sections of the doors as they expand and contract based on changes in temperature and/or humidity.

Many doors have inset panels that are not rigidly glued in, but sit in channels in the rails (cross members) and stiles (upright members). When these doors are finished, the stain and finish coat may create a weak bond where these panels are joined. As the doors shirink and swell, the panels shift, breaking these seals.  There also may be a slight edge of finish that remains, and as the doors continue to shift, that edge may make noises even after the seal is broken.

One way to reduce dimensional changes is to make sure all six (6) faces of a door are sealed or painted. Often neglected are the top and bottom edges, and moisture can be absorbed through those raw faces increasing dimensional shift.


Are buried footings required for a shed or other structure to withstand 90mph winds?

To resist wind forces, you don't necessarily need footings below frost line, but you do need a substantial mass to resist the overturning forces from wind. Buried footings work well because the the wind must also pick up a substantial amount of earth in addition to the foundation weight. The deeper the footing, the more earth being picked up, so it is a good solution that does not require excessive amounts of concrete or masonry to provide dead weight.

The structural portion of the IBC specifies how much pressure 90 mph wind exerts on various surfaces. While too complex to get into here, if you understand overturning moments, determining the required dead weight to resist the wind is not all that complicated.

There are too many unknowns to say for sure, but I doubt a course of blocks, even with the cells filled, will be adequate to resist wind forces. In order to not build more foundation than you need to, it's likely worth it to find someone who can calculate the minimum foundation to do the job. An engineer is an obvious choice, but since no permit is required, it's likely a licensed engineer is not required. You just need someone who understands the physics involved and can do the math.


Shower floods behind the wall. on pre-formed shower/bath and ONLY when the shower is turned on

The easiest and first thing to check is the trim pieces around your valve knob(s). These trim pieces usually come with a cheap foam gasket, which crumbles apart after a while. Then water runs down the wall, gets behind the trim, and goes into the wall.

When you take the trim pieces off, if the gaskets look bad, scrape them off and replace them with a bead of plumber's putty, which works much better than foam gaskets and lasts forever. Form the bead all the way around the trim, but leave a little opening at the bottom of the trim; that way, if some water does get behind the trim somehow, it will have a chance to escape, rather than accumulate behind the trim.


Grease isn't any more of a concern than it is now if the existing traps remain in place. If it was, the original fan would also be in jeopardy.

Airflow isn't really a concern, either. The original fan can probably be easily removed (and the new one connected to its power supply). Even if it can't, it won't reduce flow much, especially if it spins passively.

There's no need for a super-turbo-jet-fan. Anything that claims to move as much air as the original is suitable, and the fact that it's remote should significantly reduce noise.

I'm with you on the noise thing. I don't understand why remote fans aren't the default. My new "low sones" bath fan buzzes like a chainsaw half the time.

Go for it.


multi-wire branch circuit breaker question

You're correct that there are several problems here.

First of all, if indeed breakers #4 and #8 are sharing the same neutral wire in a 14/3 with ground cable, then you're at risk of overloading that neutral.  Correct MWBC wiring requires either a two pole breaker, or two adjacent breakers connected with a listed handle tie.  Whether AFCI is required will depend on your local code, but it isn't a bad idea in any case.  GFCI is required on the outdoor outlets, and it's not a bad idea to do that in the breaker, but using a GFCI outlet (preferably weather-resistant rated) is also fine.

Additionally, 20A breakers are not allowed on 14 AWG wire.  When you're replacing the breakers, get a 15A.

However, none of this should cause the outlet breaker to trip when something is plugged in (unless perhaps if it's already a GFCI breaker), so it's very possible that there's something else wrong in the wiring as well.  Since your family member made so many mistakes already, it would be wise to open up all the lights and outlet boxes they wired, and check their work (or hire an electrician to do so, if you don't feel confident doing so yourself).

Edit: since you mentioned breaker #4 is a GFCI breaker, the fact that its sharing a neutral with breaker #8 is why it's tripping.  GFCIs function by monitoring the current on both the hot and neutral and making sure they're equal, and if not, they trip.  Since the circuit shares its neutral with breaker #8, the currents will not be equal, so the GFCI is doing its job and tripping.  To have a GFCI breaker protect a shared-neutral MWBC like you have here, it must be a two-pole GFCI breaker, so that it can monitor both hots and their shared neutral, and make sure the current on all three wires sums to 0.


Builder used same brand for lights and fan in 3 different places

Changing the frequency IS the answer, regardless of the location of the fan. A remote with a new battery could easily work to a house next door.

Some remotes/receivers use DIP switches. They are tiny little switches in a row, usually four of them, and you change the combinations of on/off so that the receiver and the remote match.

Others use an RF signal where you typically press and hold a button 'till an LED lights up, then press another button so that the two are paired.

You really need the instructions to let you know what method your fans use to change the frequency.


Drywall is not meant to support weight.

If you want to "do it right", fix the damage to the drywall by replacing a large section extending from one stud to the next.  While the wall is open, you can install a horizontal 2×4 between the studs (known as "blocking").  When you're finished, screw the upper screw of your bicycle mount into this wood, and it will support the weight.
The lower screw can go into a drywall anchor to prevent twisting, but not supporting weight.

A much quicker, but uglier, fix is to simply attach a horizontal 2×4 to the surface of the wall, properly attaching it to two studs.  Then screw your mount into that wood.  In your case, it would work best with two horizontals to properly space the lower screw.

I used this latter approach to attach a large wall-mounted TV whose mount didn't line up with the wall studs.

And the idea can be extended to surface-mounting a long horizontal 2×4 along most of the length of the garage wall.  It makes a convenient and secure place to install hooks, etc. for hanging equipment, hoses, tools, etc.


I've done just that in a pinch, but I recommend centering your tabs on an inset section (the part along the bottom half with only one layer). This will allow much easier bending over the ridge, and your nailing will have more structure as well. You'll use more shingles, but they'll install easier.

Cut at the red line. Fold in the center.


How can I cut off the rusted closet bolts holding my toilet?

I would caution against using any bolt cutters on the toilet hold down bolts. The reason being that they typically will apply a significant pressure against the porcelain base of the stool and crack or break it.

Another thing to consider is that bolt cutters typically have a jaw profile as shown below. With this type of arrangement it is just not possible to get a grip in the small size of the bolt at or below the nut.

You will be far better off using a mini hand hacksaw as shown in another answer or a Dremel tool with a grinding wheel cutoff blade.

An alternative if you do not have a Dremel tool but do have an oscillating tool is to use a metal cutting blade in that. Note that it is my experience that the typical metal cutting blades for these saws do not last as long as you would hope and they are much more expensive than a few cutoff wheels for a Dremel tool.


What can I do to solve the moisture problem in my bathroom?

Condensation happens whenever hot air meets cold surfaces, and the air after a shower is hot and very humid.

You'll always get some condensation, but there are a few things done to mitigate this:

Normal interior walls and well-insulated exterior walls are usually not a lot colder than the air temperature. (The colder the walls are, the more condensation will happen.)
An exhaust fan will remove some of the humid, hot air (and since hot air rises, the exhaust fan is on or near the ceiling which has the greatest effect), and regular (room temperature, and regular humidity) air will be drawn in from HVAC vents or under the bottom of the door. Opening the door will help even more.
A semi-gloss or high-gloss paint is used (usually these are labelled Kitchen and Bath) which holds up better to high humidity, condensation and regular cleaning.

If your walls are actually solid concrete or concrete blocks, then they definitely are going to be colder as concrete is a poor insulator. This is why in the same room concrete will feel cooler to the touch than drywall, which will feel cooler to the touch than a towel.


Did I break my door lock by locking it from the inside before exiting?

Door latches (door handle you're referring to) are made to close while locked, they're a spring-loaded device that does not care that the door knob won't turn or lever actuate as the latch bolt gets pushed back against its spring by the striker plate before dropping into the pocket. It works this way whether the lock is engaged or not. Nothing in the lock mechanism is connected to this portion of the latch.

He might be onto something if he's talking about the deadbolt  but the reason why would be obvious to you. I only mention it because I flipped the deadbolt lever in the dark in one of those bu'duh moments and left a nice permanent dent in the casement molding beside my front door.

I've locked the latch from the inside all my life as well. Took apart my first mortise type lock with the old ward keys somewhere around 10 and managed to get it back together and in working condition. Did the same with the Kwikset dual door set of the day. The latch part hasn't changed much in its operation over the ensuing four decades and the latch was made to spring actuate then as it does now.

Tell him it saves wear and tear on the pin tumblers in the lock and the key for the door latch as they only get used half as much as the deadbolt key.

How old is this lockset? Normal wear and tear kill them.


Why would I have to continually reset my hot tubs heater?

We inherited a a hot tub with a house purchase, it was probably 10 years old. After a few months of use, it would sometimes trip the GFCI breaker during use.

I opened the access panel on the hot tub and opened up the control box and the heater unit itself had some corrosion hear the pressure switch.

I removed the corroded heater and replaced it with an aftermarket heater, like the one below. This solved my GFCI problem.  FYI, you'd need to buy the pressure switch separately, heavy gauge wire, and be comfortable installing such a device yourself. Or, buy it and hire an electrician to install it.


What decibel range would be considered a "quiet" range hood?

From Lowes.com:

"Range Hood Sound Levels

The sound that a range hood makes is measured in sone. One sone is roughly equal to the sound of a refrigerator running. Normal conversations take place at about 4 sones, and light traffic rates up to around 8. Use sones to compare units, but be aware that the higher the CFM, the higher the sone rating is likely to be. Look for normal sone ratings to find the quietest hood at normal operation levels."

Not all online sources publish sone specifications, but you'll often find that number on the actual packaging.


Honeywell T6360 wiring - follow installation wiring guide positions or numbers?

Use the numbers.
The position of the terminals in the wiring diagram is likely just for ease of drawing, and may not exactly model the actual device.


Where in the span of a floor joist can I drill holes to run wiring?

The rules that I know for holes (not notches) are to keep your hole in the center of the joist when possible (top to bottom) or at least 2" from an edge, round, with a diameter less than 1/3 of height of the joist. Once you follow those, I don't believe there's a restriction on how close or far from the end of the joist you can install the holes. Personally I would keep the hole at least the length of one hole diameter (or 2" for small holes) away from the end of the joist, but there isn't anything in the building code I see requiring that.


Is it safe to combine Christmas miniature light sets of different amperage?

If they are set up with a plug at one end and a socket at the other, should be fine - though I'd certainly suggest plugging the 2A string into the 5A string, rather than the other way around.


It is reasonable to expect a contractor to replace the last foot of HVAC duct work, the connection between the insulated duct and the register?

I believe it's called a "boot", and yes, they're generally pre-fabricated.

However, if the existing ones are in good shape, they shouldn't need replacing.  If they're damaged, then the reasonableness depends on what your contract says.


Please post a picture of the item.

If you're talking about Nylock style nuts where the element is to prevent the nut from vibrating loose:

The metal thread goes on first.

If you're talking about a nut with a built in fluid seal, due to its design, a Seal Nut will need to go on with the rubber element on the inside.
The rubber must be compressed to seal against the surface it abuts, it's not going to seal if assembled with the rubber element on the outside.

How the seal works


installing a french drain around a basement wall

So moisture can either come in from below (a rising water table) or come in from surrounding ground water (rain) in the saturated soil.

If it comes up from a rising water table, it will enter the living space from below through cracks between the foundation wall and slab.

If it comes from the surrounding ground water, it COULD enter the living space through the wall, especially if the exterior side of the foundation wall is not sealed properly or through the crack between the foundation wall and slab.
Either way the moisture enters the living space, it will need to be collected and disposed.

I think the best way to collect it is on the exterior side of the foundation wall by installing a 6” perf pipe in drainrock and laid 6”-8” BELOW the interior basement slab. (Some use “filter fabric” around the drainrock to keep “fine” soil particles out of the rock and pipe.)

To keep the subsurface water from seeping through the wall, I recommend installing a moisture barrier on the exterior side of the foundation wall and install a 2” thick plastic mesh on the wall to allow water to flow down to the perf pipe. If dirt is allowed to be backfilled against the wall, the dirt could hold the moisture giving it a chance to seep through the wall.

Once collected it needs to be disposed by extending a solid pipe over an embankment or in a collection well and pumped away.


How do you reduce floor sound transmission?

Here's what we've done so far. I'm curious whether there may be better techniques...

R-19 batts between joists to reduce noise transmission through air
liquid nails on top of joists to reduce squeeking subfloor
first layer of 1/2 inch plywood
"green glue", a gummy substance to reduce foot fall noise transmission
second layer of 1/2 inch plywood
rosin paper
hardwood planks

Actually we haven't installed the hardwood floor yet but we tried walking around on the subfloor and talking in fairly loud voices and neither could be heard in the floor below. Adding another layer of wood should only help.

One option that we skipped is to use joist isolators which are pads that go between the joists and the subfloor.

I've been told that there are three principles at play when trying to reduce sound transmission:

the denser the floor the better (ie concrete is better than wood)
the thicker the floor the better (ie 3 inches of wood is better than 1)
the fewer (and softer?) the points of contact between floor and ceiling the better (eg green glue and joist isolators)

The first two are pretty clear. One example of the third is if the ceiling below is dropped and does not use the joists above for support. Instead the ceiling uses only the walls on either side, and ideally the wall studs aren't connected to the joists either.


Safe materials to come in contact with copper plumbing

Copper is corrosion resistant to most materials found around a home ; EXCEPT ammonia and urine( urea) . Some household cleaners contain ammonia. When moist they cause corrosion of copper. Ammonia and related materials can cause stress corrosion cracking of brasses.That is why brass flex tubes have not been used for decades to connect gas appliances.


If you are fairly certain that it is coming from under the toilet... you need to pull it up and don't wait.
The leak you can see is less important than what you can't see. If the seal (wax or other) is compromised, it could cause (of could have already caused) damage that will make a simple wax ring install something else entirely...


Caulk between the segments of this modular shower surround?

You probably don't need to, as the lap in the surround design will drain water effectively. However, those are traps for mildew and grime.

I'd clean them as deeply as you reasonably can with rubbing alcohol, then put in a bead of 100% white silicone. If you trim your tip carefully you can inject caulk to a depth of about 1/2" for good grab.

The tube tip will tool the caulk to some extent if you size and shape it correctly. Use caulk flow rate and movement speed to prevent squeeze-out of caulk around the tip. You should then be able to use a damp finger to apply a final cove surface without squeezing caulk out onto the shoulders of the panels. Use firm pressure and wipe your finger immediately if caulk starts to pile up under it. The result will be a nicely coved joint that's nearly identical to the factory inside corner joints.


What length bracket is required to hold 1.25" thick wood shelving with 11" depth?

The problem isn't weight capacity (that is important, but usually not the problem). The problem is balancing. If you have a bracket goes the full depth of the shelf then it supports the entire shelf. If it only goes halfway (e.g., 6" on an 11" shelf) then if the center of gravity is anywhere in the front half of the shelf, you will have big problems. In addition, a shelf supported under its entire depth (or the majority of the depth) does not necessarily have to be securely fastened to supports, it can just rest on top of the supports. But if the last support is near the center then even just a little weight could easily tip the shelf unless it is securely fastened to the supports.
I would not trust short supports for dishes or books.


Can I use packing popcorn (peanuts) instead of gravel for filling a french drain?

I don't think packing popcorn will work. I'd think it would compress and leave at best a spongy spot in your yard. Most likely you'll end up with it collapsing as soon as any weight is applied over it. The material shown in the two products you listed is a polystyrene aggregate. I don't think packing peanuts are the same exact material.


Can I store unused hardwood floor and base trim in a shed (or garage)?

I store flooring in my shed/garage all the time. However, the humidity isn't very high where I live.

You should find out the  max humidty recommended by manufacturer and verify that it won't exceed that.

Also make sure not to store directly in contact with concrete floors as they could absorb moisture through the concrete.

For engineered flooring I would not be very concerned about warping/distortion if you store it flat and even.

You should be more concerned with adhesive breaking down, wood finish failing, and fungus/rot. All of which would most likely be cause by too high moisture content.


deadbolt pins fell out when i try to take my broken key out

This little picture shows how you have to get the pins installed so that the key will allow the lock cylinder to rotate properly.


Why is there a continuous dripping sound coming from my toilet?

My intuition tells me this is the fill valve, it stopped when the fill line / valve were de-pressured overnight.


Home heating fuel comparison (wood and heat pumps)

You're right, but only because oil is the worst, most expensive way to heat a home. Pretty much anything beats it, except maybe electric resistance in places with high electricity prices. Wood, gas, and heat pump electric will all beat the pants off oil. That said, even 80% efficiency may be optimistic for a modern high efficiency wood stove. But even if that's overstated, as you can see, it's still a pretty good deal.

Additionally, your calculations may even be understating the advantages of a heat pump. 1.4 as the coefficient of performance is very conservative. I'd use 2, especially given how they not have high-efficiency units on the market than can deliver their rated performance at -15f. Some can go as high as 3 or 4 during periods of non-frigid outdoor temperatures and less than peak internal load.

Edit: you said, "Does that calculation make sense? Are heat pumps and wood inserts really that much better than oil? Can I really save 178 dollars a month by going with a 16 SEER heat pump?"

Yes indeed. But again, only because oil is such an awful fuel. Anywhere in the USA, one therm of oil heat is several times four times as expensive as one therm of natural gas heat, simply because of the relatives prices of oil vs natural gas. If you were comparing a wood stove and an electric heap pump to natural gas, it would get a whole lot more complicated--especially in the cases of a 95% efficient gas furnace, or a state with low gas prices or high electric prices.

No matter what you choose, do your wallet and the planet a favor and heat with something other than oil! It's expensive, it's dirty, and (IMHO) it contributes to awful foreign policy. Just Say No!

Edit 2: Some gov't verification of your numbers: http://www.eia.doe.gov/neic/experts/heatcalc.xls


How do I attach a flat/gable verandah to an existing house?

I'd build out from your existing roof, in line with the peak on the new verandah. (Call this a dormer.) Fill in the gable end of the new dormer on the existing roof (just as in the picture you provided), and you won't have problems with leakage in the door area. (Nor would you need a gutter.) The only faintly tricky part of this is that you'd need to tie the new roof into your existing tiles, but that's what roofers do all the time.
If this isn't clear, ping back and I'll post a picture.

Edit one: a picture, so we're on the same page... (and some massaging of the text above in hopes of clarity).

- red is your existing roof
- green is the wall of the existing house
- blue is the top of the dormer that would be added onto your roof
- yellow is the gable end of the new dormer
- the wireframe is the rest of your new verandah

So, filling in the yellow bit is very straightforward, because you've got structure behind in the new blue dormer (that I've suggested you build). Because you have that new dormer, no rain will end up near your door. (You will need to do a little bit of work making sure there's enough slope to drain water off the flatter bits of the verandah, though.)

Clear as mud? If not, ping back.


Change a NEMA 6-15 plug to fit an NEMA 14-50 receptacle

You can't do that.  You can't put at 50A plug on a 15A appliance.

What you can do is change the NEMA 14-50 to a NEMA 6-15.  You will also need to change the breaker in the panel, and will need to pigtail the wires because #6 wires will not fit on either a 15A or 20A breaker or a NEMA 6-15 recep.

Now, if you need both sockets to be active, you can install a small subpanel at the NEMA 14-50 site.  That subpanel will have 2 breakers: a 2-pole 50A and a 2-pole 15A or 20A.  The 50A will supply the NEMA 14-50 recep.  The 15A/20A will supply the dual NEMA 6-15.


Vented soffit below the window will allow air in, and will reduce the effectiveness of insulation. Other than that, it wouldn't cause a problem, but you're already concerned about the cold near the window.

You should focus on how the water gets in, and prevent that from happening in the first place. It should be fairly easy for your contractor to tell what's been happening once the siding is off. It's hard to tell how things were flashed around the window from your pictures, but it doesn't look like how I'd have done it.

When you have an ice dam, the real concern is water being pushed back up under the shingles. If that's happening, water could be dripping down the internal structure, and vented soffit below the window wouldn't help anyhow. Again, it should hopefully be easy to tell once the siding is off. If you haven't already, mention the water in the house to your contractor, and show them where you've seen it.


Which colored layer is the orignal brass and what is the other colored layer?

Copper is "red", adding zinc to it makes it brass and the more zinc the more yellow/gold.  However , there is always an exception. Yellow brass is usually 70 Cu; 30 Zn, but a cheaper yellow brass is ( muntz metal ) 60 Cu ;40 Zn and is a little reddish compared to 70;30. For these two alloys the color trend reverses. So it looks like the knobs are 70;30 and the plates are 60;40 ; both are brass.

These consumer items are very unlikely to be bronze ( Cu + tin ) which is more red than brass.

Well over 100 years ago some consumer items were bronze instead of brass. Plumbing materials are a little different as the better properties of bronze make bronze a little more likely to be used for plumbing.

Very long ago I worked at a secondary copper smelter; they melted copper alloys into standard composition ingots. It was important to separate copper scrap into about 10 categories. Experienced people could sort tons of these alloys by color and form,  not counting the pure copper wire and tubing/pipe.


If there is power to the sockets and the bulbs are good, then it is a "bulb-to-socket" problem.

Are you sure the bulbs are inserted such that they are making proper contact? Sometimes fixture housings prevent some bulbs from inserting all the way. In fact, I have some fixtures that require special 'long neck" bulbs...


Do electricians often/frequently interchange the color on the grounded leg when wiring switches?

Not all grounded conductors are white, and not all white conductors are grounded conductors.

There's no problem using a white or gray wire as an ungrounded conductor, as long as the conductor is permanently reidentified.

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection

  Article 200 Use and Identification of Grounded Conductors

  200.7 Use of Insulation of a White or Gray Color or
  with Three Continuous White Stripes.

  (C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More. The use of insulation
  that is white or gray or that has three continuous white or gray
  stripes for other than a grounded conductor for circuits
  of 50 volts or more shall be permitted only as in (1)
  and (2).

  (1) If part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently
  reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded
  conductor by marking tape, painting, or other
  effective means at its termination and at each location
  where the conductor is visible and accessible. Identification
  shall encircle the insulation and shall be a color
  other than white, gray, or green. If used for single-pole,
  3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor
  with white or gray insulation or three continuous
  white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply
  to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the
  switch to the outlet.

There is a problem with switching the grounded conductor, but no problem switching a white conductor (as long as it's reidentified).

  Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use

  Article 404 Switches

  404.2 Switch Connections.

  (B) Grounded Conductors. Switches or circuit breakers
  shall not disconnect the grounded conductor of a circuit.

  Exception: A switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted
  to disconnect a grounded circuit conductor where all circuit
  conductors are disconnected simultaneously, or where
  the device is arranged so that the grounded conductor cannot
  be disconnected until all the ungrounded conductors of
  the circuit have been disconnected.

Before the introduction of 404.2(C), two wire switch loops were common. Since a two wire cable only has a black and white wire (and ground sometimes), the white wire had to be reidentified and used as an ungrounded conductor.


How should I eliminate gaps in wood-grain miter joints?

I would probably use the same stuff you use to fill gaps in other laminate products.  I don't know how well it will hold up on the edge of a stair (in terms of working its way out of the gaps over time), but it'll at least blend in with the floor.  That stuff is made by a few companies in many colors to match a variety of laminates.  Should be available at your local big box hardware store.

For anyone in the dark about the Cap-A-Tread product, it's a laminate product designed to go over existing stair treads.  Kind of like the granite countertop systems that just lay on top of existing laminate countertops.  Looks like this:

It can also be ordered with a mitered edge piece that covers up the exposed stair end in the case of an open stair end, as OP is describing.  Basically a one-piece alternative to plank-and-bullnose for laminate on stairs.


How can I build a subpanel off a 3 prong 220V dryer outlet?

Depends how much work you want to do. The simplest approach given: " I don't expect any more than a couple hundred watts of intermittent load per circuit."

Is to convert it to a single 120V circuit at 20 amps, 2400W capacity; (or 15A, depending what the total expected wattage actually is) that happens to have vastly oversized wires. Replace the dual-pole 30A breaker with a single pole 20A breaker, use one of the hots (retagged green) to ground, [or retagged white to neutral if the current "neutral" wire is already at the main panel ground/neutral buss and it's more convenient to make THAT one the "green/ground" wire] change the receptacle, perhaps add a few boxes connected with at least 12Ga copper to house some additional outlets, away you go.

Now, if it's easy to run a ground wire, (or by some miracle the cable actually has one already, unused) you can do that and convert to a 4-prong, and then my answer in the "near duplicate" linked above applies. Several other options were provided that ignored that poster's desire not to do anything in the panel - if you are OK doing things in the panel, they also apply if you like them better. You could replace the receptacle with a sub-panel, for instance.


Wiring Options for 14/3 NM-B Cable and Two Single Pole 15 Amp Circuit Breakers

(NB: All quotes here are from the 2014 NEC, but I know of no significant changes to these passages between 2014 and 2017.)

Methods 1 and 3 are fine...

For a 15A MWBC, both wiring method 1 and wiring method 3 will work and are Code-compliant as described, insofar as the receptacle wiring goes.

but Method 2 isnt...

Method 2, however, violates NEC 300.13(B) as described:

  (B) Device Removal. In multi wire branch circuits, the
  continuity of a grounded conductor shall not depend on
  device connections such as lampholders, receptacles, and
  so forth, where the removal of such devices would interrupt
  the continuity.

as removing the first receptacle of the circuit leaves the second receptacle sans neutral.  Fortunately, this mistake won't fry any equipment, but that's only because the second receptacle only gets the second leg's hot.

And all three of these need handle tying to be compliant

In any case, identified handle ties need to be used in order to provide the "common disconnecting means" required by 210.4(B):

  (B) Disconnecting Means. Each multiwire branch circuit
  shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously
  disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where
  the branch circuit originates.

  Informational Note: See 240.15(B) for information on the
  use of single-pole circuit breakers as the disconnecting means.

and 240.15(B) (specifically, 240.15(B)(1)):

  (B) Circuit Breaker as Overcurrent Device. Circuit
  breakers shall open all ungrounded conductors of the circuit
  both manually and automatically unless otherwise permitted in 240.15(B)(1), (B)(2), (B)(3), and (B)(4).

  (1) Multiwire Branch Circuits. Individual single-pole circuit breakers, with identified handle ties, shall be permitted
  as the protection for each ungrounded conductor of multi-wire branch circuits that serve only single-phase line-to-neutral loads.


Need to cut copper pipe after removing push pull valve and replacing with sharkbite?

It sounds like do to the nature of your faucet that when the water shuts off it shuts off so abruptly that it creates a serious amount of pressure against your valve. While in theory your sharkbite should hold up to that pressure  i would be worried that over time it may get weaker.

For piece of mind i would install quarter turn compression valves, they are not hard to install and do not require soldering. Either way you should make sure that your copper is in good condition, no burrs or scars. Use some emery cloth to burnish/clean it up to see if it in good condition and not deformed.

You do not want anything that can damage the rubber o-ring in the sharkbite when you slide it onto the copper.

If you decide to go with the sharkbite you may want to install water hammer arrestor's to absorb the shock when the water shuts off.


Are portable electrical outlets permitted in a basement?

You will need to have to provide proper strain relief of the flexible cord that drops down:

(from the NEC)

  *368.56(B) Cord and Cable Assemblies. Suitable cord and cable assemblies approved for extra-hard usage or hard usage and listed bus drop cable shall be permitted as branches from busways for the connection of portable equipment or the connection of stationary equipment to facilitate their interchange in accordance with 400.7 and 400.8 and the following conditions:
  (1) The cord or cable shall be attached to the building by an approved means.
  (2) The length of the cord or cable from a busway plug-in device to a suitable tension take-up support device shall not exceed 1.8 m (6 ft).
  (3) The cord and cable shall be installed as a vertical riser from the tension take-up support device to the equipment served.
  (4) Strain relief cable grips shall be provided for the cord or cable at the busway plug-in device and equipment terminations.

Strain relief solutions are generally in the form of a metal finger-trap cages that tightens when the cable is pulled. for example:


How to identify which common terminal of the 3-way switch is connected the hot wire

Turn off breaker. Disconnect wires. Connect appropriate meter (safely). Turn on breaker, look at meter. If no voltage, turn off breaker, move to other switch, connect meter, repeat.
Or use a test lamp, if you are old-fangled. The folks around here are fond of "non-contact voltage testers" but they appear to be prone to confusing results. I'm old-fangled enough to prefer a meter, but not old-fangled enough to prefer a test lamp.
If your switches were actually wired "that way" you'd have a neutral connection in one box, and none in the other box. But things are often less clear-cut than that in practice - can't hurt to look for it, though.


Can I pull this low voltage mounting bracket out?

Mine are screwed into a stud. It looks like there are coax cables in there and this plate is the access point. There some other cables in there too, might be alarm cables. I'd put a cover over this and mount your powerbridge somewhere else.


Is a raised floor viable and safe in a basement bathroom?

Why does he need to move the plumbing in the first place? My guess is that its simply because the drain in the concrete is in the incorrect place? I finish basements professionally for a living. Very rarely do you have the luxury of the base plumbing being in the exact right location. In almost every job that I do we move the tub/shower drain.  If you are using an experienced, professional plumber, this is a no brainer. Unless, of course their is a grade issue where he can't get the proper fall. However, if there is an existing drain under the concrete, this is a very unlikely situation. If we are moving plumbing less than 3' we use a jack hammer. if it's more than that, we saw cut. The previous reply is correct about the dust and mess of concrete saws... and it's more expensive (typically). If you are tiling the floor, just ensure that your concrete patch is very level (or just below the concrete grade) and then level quick the patch after the concrete is done. The fact that a jackhammer makes a 'jagged edge' hole is ok if you are installing flooring over it, as long as the patch is level.

For time and costs... my plumber charges $75 per hr for jackhammering (usually doesn't take more than an hour). Labor and time to rebase the drain into the correct location - $200-$350. Concrete patch - Less than $100.

To me its a no brainer... do it the right way, move it and repair the concrete. If your contractor has an issue with that, he may not be a contractor you want to finish this project for you.


Seal crack between brick wall and drywall

You don't fill in the gap between drywall in brick.  Caulk, mud, plaster, whatever will not keep this area from having problems.  I have done tons of drywall to brick and there is simply a small gap there.  Anything else doesn't look right.

I have also seen small t-molding placed there and it looks... OK but not right.

I have seen caulk and it just looks bad because the brick isn't a flat edge against the drywall.  It has valleys for mortar and these take a lot of extra caulk.

Then you can plaster over the entire brick or backer board to get rid of gap but you are losing the brick.

I have brick fireplace right next to custom shelving in my house and really glad I didn't caulk it.  The key for your situation is a nice straight thin drywall line.


What type of copper pipe do I need for a typical LP gas range?

I'm not sure exactly where this pipe is, or how far back the pipe runs. Though most codes now call for a shutoff valve be installed for each appliance, in the same room and within 6' of the appliance.  I'm going to assume that the piece of pipe you're looking to replace, runs from the shutoff valve to the appliance (this might be a terrible assumption, but you didn't supply much detail about your situation).  If this is the case, you could use a piece of flexible copper pipe exactly the same size as the one you're replacing. Or you could use a corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST).

As you've seen, flexible copper is prone to kinking, especially if you're moving the stove often.  The CSST is more resilient to movement, and is typically easier for DIYers and homeowners to work with.  If you do switch to CSST, you might find that you need an adapter to connect it to the valve.  You should be able to find CSST fittings in various lengths, at your local hardware store.

If you choose to replace the pipe with flexible copper, you should shut off the gas and take the pipe with you to the store. With the pipe in hand, it should be no problem finding replacement pipe.  You might also find that the end(s) of your copper pipe are flared. If they are, you'll also need to flare the ends of the new pipe. Some stores can do this for you. If they can't, you'll need a special tool to do it.

Without actually seeing the installation, it's difficult to provide any more specific information.


Is there a minimum, NEC-compliant distance that an electrical outlet can be off the floor in my home?

I wasn't able to find anything that limited the height of receptacles, in fact, they can even be in the floor.

  210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets.

  (3) Floor Receptacles. Receptacle outlets in ﬂoors shall not be counted as part of the required number of receptacle outlets unless
  located within 450 mm (18 in.) of the wall.

I think typically they're between 16 - 18", but it doesn't look like there are any hard set rules on this for general purpose receptacles (at least as far as NEC is concerned).

Mike Holt says...

  No. There is no NEC requirement on the height of wall-mounted
  receptacles in residential, commercial, or industrial facilities,
  but….

Source

He then goes on to talk about the American Disabilities Act (ADA) and other building code organizations rules.


Are barrier terminal blocks or bus bars inside a junction or weather-proof box up to NEC code?

Looks good.

Well thought out and well designed.

I can't think of anything that would be a code violation. Make sure the terminal strips are identified for use with the system voltage and identified for the current of the circuit. Is the Photon board identified for the voltage?

If it is in a garage you don't need a weatherproof enclosure. A simple screw cover junction box will do but would have to be bonded to the equipment ground conductor. If you like the plastic enclosure though then that works too.

Good luck!


You should try to loosen/remove the piece still in there.
it should just unscrew. The cover you removed doesn't appear to be part of the original drain. If you can remove the remaining piece, you can get a whole new piece to screw back in and no water will be pooling around.


Leveling options for an uneven concrete floor in basement?

Too long for a comment:
I like to reduce high spots because I have found with moisture most self leveling compounds just don’t last , a 4” angle grinder is a handy home tool and can be used to cut a trench or with painstaking work grind it all down, inexpensive grinders start at ~30$ and pro versions can be close to 200 for a 4” , going up to a 9”angle grinder with a carbide surfacing blade/ bit will cost around 300 but can do a large amount in a short time this tool is used to cut the high spots down faster than masonry disks without dust.
I use water so a GFCI protected receptacle or extension cord is a must with my setup if no water is used the blade or bit doesn’t last long this eliminates the need for a dust mask but a shop vac and a large rubber floor squeegee is helpful.


Are there any standards/certifications for TV wall mount quality?

The answer would seem to be "Yes."  In short, you'll want to look for VESA and UL certifications for monitor/TV mounting brackets.
There are VESA Flat Display Mounting Interface (FDMI) specifications for wall mounts but those seem to be mostly constrained to the "geometry" of the mount and its usefulness for fitting VESA-compliant monitors and televisions. The VESA standards do seem to set weight specifications that must be met in order for the mounting system to be considered VESA Certified though.
UL certifies TV/monitor mounts, and "mounts that are UL-approved have undergone an additional level of testing that only adds to our peace of mind while hanging a TV off the wall. To attain UL certification, a mount is tested to at least four times the advertised weight rating. Most of the mounts we researched have an advertised weight rating of 130 to 175 pounds, which is already excessive, given the relatively light weight of today’s TVs."
NY Times, The Best TV Wall Mount", OCTOBER 2, 2020


Does polybutylene plumbing require lower pressure?

Check your pressure before the regulator and after the regulator goes to the home and you will have your answer.


Need help designing an oversized pergola

Hire an engineer.

This is a non-trivial structure that could kill people if it collapsed. It may require trusses rather than simple beams to cover that span. Arched (bowstring) trusses are a possible "stock" solution depending what you want to do for an "arch", but in any case this is not something where off-the-cuff design seems at all advisable....


Can a load on the line side ever trip a GFI?

Although in theory a device on the line side of the GFCI will not trip the device, it can in practice.

In theory, a GFCI will only trip when it detects the current is not balanced on its load terminals. Unfortunately, the design of a GFCI makes them susceptible to interference. They can pick up electromagnetic signals, and also may also trip with wild swings of line voltage. There was a recent presentation at DEFCON that demonstrated how a (strong) radio transmission can cause the GFCI to trip, and even self-destruct.

I have personally experienced unwanted GFCI tripping from motors in my home: an exhaust fan and a garbage disposal. The GFCI tripped as the motor was turned off. In these instances, they were older motors and the circuit did not carry a safety ground (two-conductor NM cable).


The two open slots at the top right-hand side of the breakers looks from the photos as though it can handle a double breaker needed for 230V.
So from what you've shown the answer appears to be yes.


Why is my main water supply shut off valve leaking even while closed?

I think what is leaking is the drain. Does it look like the object sticking out to the side in the below picture?  If so, this is used to drain water from the house side of the supply when the valve is off.

It sounds like you over tightened it in the first place which started the leaking.  If you've broken only the cap, you might be able to find a replacement.  If the stem and threads are damaged, long-term you will need to replace the entire valve.  As a short-term fix, you just need to block it some how.  Marine epoxy is handy for emergency plumbing repairs.


Bulbs for dusk to dawn outdoor light fixtures

2-wire photocontrols vs 3-wire

A perfect photo-control has 3 functioning wires:  Always-hot (black), neutral (white), and "switched-hot" (red).  The photo-control powers itself 24x7 via the black and white wires.  It switches power to the lamp via the red wire.

Incandescent bulbs have an interesting property: when they're not burning, they have very low resistance, and will flow current freely (this is called "inrush current"),  That means if you're designing a photo-control, it's possible to skip the neutral wire, and have the photo-control power itself by leaking power through the bulb when it's off.  This won't have any effect on an incandescent bulb.   This is a 2-wire photo-control.

A raw fluorescent bulb is infinite resistance until the lamp strikes its arc.  LEDs are high resistance until they light. (this is also true of any arc discharge light, including LPS, HPS, mercury, MH, or neon). All need a special control circuit to keep current from being excessive.  These control circuits may, or may not play well with 2-wire photo-controls, and may be designed specifically to do so.

The same issue exists with dimmers, so "dimmable" can help.

Another option is to rewire your fixture to use a 3-wire type.

The types of photo control

 source

This "puck type" is a replaceable photo control which sits typically on top of the light.  It's commonly found on street lights, HPS, mercury or MH barn lights, and their LED replacements.  They are universally 3-wire.  The socket rotates, and the detector window should be aimed to the north.

 source

If you look at most of the consumer grade photo-lights, you'll see a component that looks like this.  This is a "stalk type" photo-control, and they are commodity items.  It is replaceable, in the sense that it can be unscrewed from the fixture and replaced.   They thread into a 1/2" trade size hole widely used in electrical boxes.  These are available in 2-wire or 3-wire.

So if your fixtures have this type of 2-wire photo-detector, you can pull down the unit, unscrew the old sensor, and screw in a 3-wire type.  Wire black to supply, red to the lamp's hot, and white with the lamp neutrals.

You can put the sensor anywhere

Nothing says you need the photo-sensor to be at the lamp.  Since the stalk-type can screw into any 1/2" knockout, such as that on the side of a junction box... you can install it where convenient - as long as it has a good view of an area whose lighting changes dramatically day to night.  For instance, you could install it in an electrical box inside near a window.

Let the sensor "train"

Modern photo sensors have a memory, and "Learn" the day-vs-night brightness in their location, over several days and nights.   I've installed a sensor on a north-side porch, so sheltered I needed a flashlight to work.  I wasn't surprised when the sensor turned the lights on in broad daylight.  However, by the second day, it had "gotten the rhythm" of what "light" and "dark" is in that location, and it worked properly.    What does this mean?

If you are adding a photo-control near a switch -- if possible put the switch downstream of the photo-control (i.e. switch the red wire).  That way the photo-control continues to get power 24x7, and it keeps its "memory".

Interchangeable for motion sensors

They also make motion sensors in the "stalk" format.  So you could potentially alter the lamp to be a motion sensor instead of dusk-to-dawn.


How can I hang a shelf with no visible fasteners?

You could use a keyhole router bit to cut keyhole slots in the back to hang it.

Another option would be to use a french cleat. Either buy a metal one that could attach to the back of the shelf or integrate one into the wood back.  Here is a discussion of french cleat techniques.


What can i do to up electrical amps in my house via fuse breaker

Call an electrician!
Given how little information you've posted, and given the additional complexities / loads introduced with an income suite (additional fridge, microwave, stove, etc), this is best handled by a professional.
Do not, under any circumstance, replace a fuse with a bigger fuse (i.e., one with a larger current rating).
Doing that is an extreme hazard and fire risk.
A fuse or circuit breaker is sized to be the smaller of the following: the current rating of the smallest wire in the circuit and the rating of the receptacles or fixtures in the circuit. In order to increase the size of the fuse, you need to re-run all of the wire in the circuit with bigger wire, or run all new (bigger) wire to all of the receptacles / fixtures and properly disable the old wiring.


What is the Best Practice for finishing the walls of a Bathroom?

You'll need to fill in the depressions left by the bits of plaster that have fallen off in order to get the wall smooth again. You can get ready-mix plaster compound at any hardware store; just add water and follow the directions. Once it's hardened, paint away.


What's the difference between Rust-oleum and Rust-oleum Professional?

I dont know what the technical differences are but Ive used both for painting parts on my Jeep and have noticed that the Professional version gives a much smoother finish and self levels a lot better.  If you have the patience get the Professional version in the can and brush it on.  Looks a million times better than the spray can.

Prep work for both versions has been about the same, wire wheel, clean with mineral spirits, prime, sand, clean, final coats.


Are there refrigerators with a remote compressor?

Commercial refrigeration units are available which place the compressor in a remote location. There's a good summary of the pros and cons of such a setup at Katom Restaurant Supply which is rather comprehensive.
One thing to consider is that a typical home air conditioner is about the equivalent of a refrigerator with a remote compressor.
A post two years ago on Houzz website has about 20 comments with nothing conclusive with respect to residential systems, but the expected reference of commercial/restaurant sources.
I'd expect that you'd have to pay the premium for a commercial unit.


there's a little button on the underside of the stem on the insecure side. press it in with a nail or similar pointed tool and pull on the handle.


A pile of gravel will be easy to move (read: Scoop into something). If you have any larger rocks then it gets hard to shovel. I would just request they send a truck with a dump bed that you can adjust the end gate. Then if you have free range (no trees or power lines) they can slowly drive forward and do a thin spread for you. Much easier to move where you need it this way and no wheelbarrow involved.


AFCI breaker tripping when any load attached

Proper wiring
The first step, is to inspect the breaker installation. Make sure it's installed properly, and all connections are tight.
For an AFCI breaker, the grounded (neutral) and ungrounded (hot) circuit conductors should connect to their respective terminals on the breaker. The coiled grounded (neutral) wire from the breaker, should connect to the grounded (neutral) bar in the panel.

If the circuit neutral is connected directly to the neutral bar in the panel, the breaker will trip as soon as current is drawn through the circuit.
Short-circuit
Next you'll want to check the wiring for a short. Disconnect the ungrounded (hot), and grounded (neutral) conductors from the breaker. Use a multimeter to test continuity between the ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductors, ungrounded (hot) and grounding conductors, and grounded (neutral) and grounding conductors.  You should have no continuity between any of the wires (assuming there's no load connected).
Test the breaker
If you have a spare bit of cable left over, you could rig up an example test circuit.  Connect a short bit of cable to the breaker, and wire the load at the other end. Carefully turn the breaker on, and see if the problem persists.  If the breaker trips, try replacing the breaker (they are known to be/go bad from time to time). If the breaker holds, the problem is likely with the wiring.
Visual inspection
The last test would be to visually inspect the wiring, which I'm assuming is impossible (or quite difficult).


How to cut 45 angles in quarter round shoe molding with circular saw?

Really too dangerous cutting small base shoe molding with a circular saw.

It is so easy to cut that you should just buy one of those cheap wooden miter boxes that you use with a fine toothed back saw.

Sometimes these even come with the saw as a kit.


Questions concerning dual flush converters

We put a dual flush converter on my parents toilet a year ago.  It was pretty crappy (pun intended).  The problem we found, was that the half flush didn't always clear everything out, and much of the time you had to double flush the half flush.  When we called the manufacturer, they stated that with some old toilets, the converters don't work so well.  Luckily HD was willing to take the kit back, so we returned it after a couple of weeks of trying to get it to work.

Granted, this was one of the first dual flush conversion kits, and they may be better by now, but YMMV, as it seems to depend both on the kit you get, and the toilet it is going on.

As for special considerations for septic- the less water you can use the better, so in theory converting to a dual flush should be of benefit.  After our experience with my parents, for our new house (on a septic system as well) I just went with a high efficiency 1.28GPF toilet.


damaged drywall: Repair with spackle or replace drywall?

Spackle's just fine. The real trick is replicating the texture!


How to confirm coaxial wall plate is connected correctly?

Your tester probably uses direct current (DC) which will be blocked by the capacitor.

The capacitor should pass the high frequency AC signal from the aerial.

Mind you, those are horrible cheap unscreened sockets. You'd be much better using the screened type with the metal cage which were shown in the rest of the video.


To answer correctly, you would need to show or say the dimensions of the tub and the distance from the existing 4x4 supports. Don't forget the additional weight of 2 people. If it is near a support post, you will be fine. I would play it safe and add a post, secured to a 2x6 directly under the tub.


Based on your picture:

Copper pipe in concrete; a problem.
Copper pipe connected to galvanized iron pipe (evidently) without a dielectric union; a problem.
Electrical ground connected to the galvanized iron pipe, not the copper pipe; likely also a problem, and would be a problem for the grounding if there was a dielectric union.

It is just possible that the union there is dielectric, in which case the copper above it and the ground wire above it are the main issues, but it's unlikely. A dielectric union is correctly used where the pipe material changes from copper to iron.

You could certainly start with a dielectric union and moving the ground wire (or having it moved by an electrician that knows what he or she is doing, unlike the one that put it there.)


Lamp between switches in multiway-switching

I'm guessing your are using a proximity type tester. Some are very sensitive to any electrical current even static charge. So if you have a wire next to a hot wire yet is disconnected from the circuit, mutual induction will cause some trace voltage with very small (milliamp) current and yes it will register on your sensor. Thes type of sensors will tell you current is present but they don't do much more than that.

If you are concerned, try using an ammeter it has settings that will give you voltage and current strength.


Just mix in the same ratio as the original instructions. If the instructions say to mix 2.7L water to 20kg mortar, that's 0.135L per 1kg. So if you only want 5kg mortar, you'd mix 5 * 0.135 = 0.675L water. Same applies if you're mixing with sand or lime.