How can I remove a beeswax finish from a wooden countertop?

Start with a wax stripper chemical such as you would use on floors. Use a "Scotch-brite" pad to assist with removal of old stubborn wax. Dry with rags then clean with mineral spirits. Follow that when dry with a thorough sanding with successively finer grit papers, ending with very fine (600). Then finish as desired.


Look for cut to fit foam filter for a window air conditioner.  It's roughly 1/4" thick very lightweight foam so it doesn't reduce airflow very much, but it'll catch most pet fur.


Should I isolate the ground and neutral in the 30A safety switch box or keep them bonded until the sub panel it is feeding (as service disconnect)?

Ground and neutral only meet at one place, and that place is the main panel

You must keep ground and neutral separate everywhere but the main panel -- this is the cardinal rule of how grounding works.  As a result:

Land the feeder grounds on the terminal block/bar in the safety switch, bonding it to the case with the green screw
And wirenut the neutrals to each other, but do not connect them to anything else in the switch

That way, the safety switch case is grounded, and the grounds and neutrals run through to the subpanel, but ground and neutral do not meet here.

You don't really need the safety switch -- there are cheaper ways to make this as safe as you desire

While the safety switch does provide a disconnecting means for the structure, it may be less costly to put a QOM2100 in the subpanel (all but the smallest QOs are convertible from main lugs to main breaker or vice versa) and use that as a disconnect instead.

In order to keep some dunderhead from turning the subpanel back on while you're working on it, what you can do is get a lockout device for your main panel and then use a thin-shackled padlock to lock out the breaker for the subpanel while you're working on it, keeping the key in your pocket while the work is taking place.  That way, any miscreant who wants to zap you will have to bust the lock first, which should be enough of a clue to someone who's not truly malign in intent that they shouldn't be doing that!


How can I take this kitchen faucet apart?

You can try one of those round rubber jar opener and if that doesn't work, go to your Harbor Tool store and purchase a rubber strap wrench.  At Harbor, it is sold as a set of three and relatively inexpensive.  Use the one that fits.  Also, try spraying some WD-40 penetrating oil at the base so it loosens the thread (don't get any on the upper part; only the base). The rubber strap wrench won't damage the finish.  This worked for me.


How many computer chargers can I put on 1 electrical outlet?

36 laptops,
or
144 tablets,
or
18 laptops and 72 tablets,
or
Any combination of laptop and tablet that is less than or equal to 1440 watts.

Since a 15 ampere 120 volt circuit can supply a maximum of 1800 watts, but a circuit should only be loaded at 80%.

15 amperes * 120 volts = 1800 watts

1800 watts * 0.80 = 1440 watts

This example assumes that this is a dedicated circuit, with no other loads on the circuit.


Allow enough space.

A cable is 2-5 wires inside a plastic sheath.

A #14 wire needs 2.0 cubic inches.
A #12 wire needs 2.25 cubic inches.
A #10 wire needs 2.5 cubic inches.
A #8 wire needs 3.0 cubic inches.
A #6 wire needs 5.0 cubic inches.
Beyond that, it gets complicated.

All grounds together count as 1 wire of the largest size.  So if you have a bunch of #14-#10 grounds, you get them all for 2.5 cubic inches total.

Suppose you're extending a 12/2 cable. That's two #12 wires from one cable, two #12 wires from the other cable (four so far).  That makes 2.25 x 4 = 9 cubic inches.

Now you know how big a box (or boxes) you need.

Get a taller panel

It's always a blessing to have more spaces anyway, so go for it. You are allowed to splice with wire-nuts inside a panel.

I prefer to have multiple junction boxes, connected with EMT metal conduit.

If your panel is surface mount, this can work great.  You run a 3/4" EMT conduit pipe some distance from the panel.  You fit either a 4" square deep box (31 cubic inches with a domed cover (10 cubic inches), or a 4-11/16" square box (42 cubic inches).   EMT metal conduit, properly fitted, is the ground path.  So you simply attach a pigtaled ground screw to the screw hole in the box, and tack up your grounds and push em back into the box.

Then, down the conduit, you extend the wires using THHN individual wires.  You can use all #12 wire, that'll be fine for extending #14 circuits, but mark the #12 with a flag saying "#14" or 15A, so somebody doesn't think it's good for 20A.

Either the 42 ci box or the 31+10 box+cover give enough room for 4 circuits to be extended.  And that's fine because 4 circuits is the thermal maximum for EMT conduit that is longer than 2 feet.

Hot-neutral grouping matters.  Wiring is NOT just "every neutral goes to the bar" - it matters which hot(s) it's with, for diagnostic and GFCI/AFCI reasons. Bundle the THHN hot-neutral groups. Wrap the pair with tape somewhere it won't be too intrusive.  I recommend multi-color tape. You can even have pairs of colors, out of 6 colors of tape you can get 21 combinations.  (blue-red and red-blue can't both be used, too confusing).

Don't catch your panel on fire again.

Do not use Zinsco or Federal Pacific panels, or continue them in use.

Do not use Brand X panel and put Brand Y breakers in them.  That's not mindless consumerism, the bus stabs actually are different shapes and won't mesh properly cross-brand, and that starts arcing fires.  If you just can't follow this rule, use Eaton CH or Square D QO. That will put you straight :)

Do not exceed stab limits. So putting the 50A/30A range-water heater quadplex across from the 100A subpanel breaker, is nope.

If a bus stab is roached, stop using it. Paint a breaker red and stick it there and use it for nothing.

Cover all unused knockouts to prevent animal entry.


The industrial way is both coating and cathodic protection ( sacrificial anodes/aluminum).The coating greatly reduces the amperage needed from the anodes. In your case it would be so easy and cheap to drive several inch lengths of aluminum angle into the ground that I would put in several ( each one attached with a wire to the steel frame). For a limited life item ,I would not bother with coating although that is best practice. In industry they would measure soil resistivity to decide how many anodes ,but,again, not necessary for your case. The aluminum could also be used to anchor the trampoline to the ground.


Limits to load connections for AFCI/GFCI Outlet

Your plan will work. Some AFCI's have length restrictions to the first outlet Branch circuit 50' for 14 awg wire and 70' for 12awg NEC 210.12.A.3.B & 210.12.A.4.B. using one installed at the first outlet and installed according to manufacturer instructions you can complete your plan within code.


Why is my indoor A/C Blower randomly turning on and off only with Nest?

The battery is likely depleted and it's pulling a small amount of power to charge the battery. This signal is causing the blower to turn on momentarily. The fix is probably to run a common wire, preferably to the A/C since that's where Nest expects it in a dual transformer configuration (which I assume you have since both Rh and Rc are connected).

Hopefully your A/C control board has a common terminal, and an unused wire. If not, you can use a Venstar Add-A-Wire.


What kind of screws/bolts do I need to mount a heavy TV mount?

You can use structural screws, which, while more expensive then lag bolts, are much easier to install - most do not require you to drill a pilot hole and take only seconds to install.


alternatives to >$120 replacement clock for old Magic Chef gas range

One way I have fixed things like this is to form new tabs out of metal parts. Have the new tabs bend down inside the back side of the plastic bezel piece where you use a good two part epoxy to glue the metal part in place.

For where the plastic tab may still be intact you can add a thinner metal piece and glue into place in the same manner to strengthen the remaining part.

I've had really the best luck using copper plate material for this because it is easy to work with and bends nice without cracking like aluminum does. Soft brass plate works too but is harder to work with. Use steel wool to clean away tarnish to allow the epoxy to stick better.


Where should I connect the ground wire in a 30amp enclosed switch?

Well everything but the 50 amp plug will be ok, putting a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp circuit Would violate code per table 210.21.B.3
When you connect in the box the ground attaches to the box also.
Normally a green 10-32 self forming screw fits right in one of those punched holes below the switch block. Some have a ground symbol above them.
There should be a flash guard and a cover over the contacts it is kinda important and should be replaced (the flash guard these switches are known to throw molten metal).


Why is noise coming from our hot water radiator even when it is off?

It depends partly on your location but many radiator systems have bypass pipes through which water passes to and from other radiators on the same circuit - even it that particular radiator has its valve turned off.

Air in the heating pipework can cause the sort of noises you describe and can be eliminated by bleeding the air from the system.

See answer(s) to similar question


Leveling off part of concrete slab for floating floor

If the goal is to install a subfloor, do the leveling in the supports for the subfloor. Once the subfloor is installed on leveled sleepers (joists but not spanning, since they sit on the concrete, whatever you want to call them) nobody needs to know or care what the concrete under them happens to be shaped like. And SLC is relatively expensive.


I’d remove the last two existing joists (joists furthest from the house) and reinstall them next to the third joists. I’d fasten them together with 1/2” thru bolts at 8” o.c. Staggered 16” o.c. Top and bottom. (Install them 3” from the top and bottom

Then I’d install a 4x12 across the end of the deck (extending it to the existing width at each end) and align the top with the top of the existing beam. I’d fasten it to the existing beams with Simpson GLTV beam hanger (installed upside-down) at each end. (Be sure to order it the correct depth based on your existing joist depth.)

Then I’d install the same size joists as the existing joists and cantilever them 2’ to gain the 24” you’re requiring. I’d install solid blocking between the new cantilevered joists and clip each joist to the top of the new beam with a Simpson A35. I’d use Simpson “U” Series for the connection to the 3-sistered joists.

Then, I’d reinstall the diagonal bracing.

Extend existing deck covering as required.


Should a concrete curb at a patio door be built on top of or inset into the slab?

Keil, if I understand your situation correctly it sounds like you're on the right path. I would set the precast on the existing concrete, but you'll want to seal all around with a silicone-based calk. I don't think you need to worry about any punch through, because it isn't load bearing. Good luck!


What is the danger of reversing the polarity while connecting a dishwasher to the electrical service?

Reversing "polarity"* (swapping the hot and grounded/neutral wires) presents no danger to the equipment on an AC circuit. In terms of electrical properties, the conductors are the same. The current switches direction 50 or 60 times each second, and the equipment simply cannot tell the difference between the two conductors. Here's an interesting article in the Electrical Engineering Times about neutral wire myths.

Safety to humans is a different matter. In most of the world, common household current is single phase power, with a “hot” conductor carrying line current, and a grounded “neutral” conductor carrying the return current (120V in North America, 230V in Europe, 100V in Japan, etc.). In North America, the single phase is actually 240V split into two 120V legs, and there is no neutral if you use 240V, but let’s sort of ignore that for now.

The hot/line conductor is dangerous if you touch it, while the grounded neutral is normally safe.

If a device or appliance uses a single-pole on/off switch, so it only breaks one conductor, then it’s dangerous to switch the neutral. If you switch the hot conductor, it de-energizes all the wiring in the appliance. However; if you switch the neutral, it leaves all of the wiring in the appliance energized. If you touch it, or if there’s a fault and you touch the appliance housing, you could be electrocuted even if the appliance's power switch is off.

If an appliance has a two-pole on/off switch, then it will break both conductors at the same time. Consequently, no matter which order you connect  the wires in, throwing the switch off will completely de-energize the appliance.

* Polarity: this term is not terribly accurate. It's "polarity" in the sense that the hot conductor on a hot/neutral circuit is connected to one pole or the other of the smaller coil in the transformer outside (the neutral is connected to the center of the coil, not to either pole). But there's no such thing as a correct direction for current to flow on an AC circuit, since AC current changes direction constantly. So this is not like the positive/negative polarity of DC current from a battery.


What is the procedure for restarting a drilled well?

Pump it out for a while. If the pump controller does not have a "low pressure cutoff" pay attention so you don't leave the pump on if you manage to pump it dry.

Common to "shock treat" (chorinate, recirculate, let sit, then flush out) on general principles. If the cap has been in place these 15 years there really isn't anything that should have gotten in, but general principles...

Depending what you are doing (such as drinking the water) might also be advisable to test the water (generally after flushing out quite thorughly and over several days, if you did shock-treat it), to be sure there are no issues with water safety from bacteria or other contaminants.

If your state (or other local authority) has a registration program you may be able to find data about your well from them (as well as, or instead of your well driller) - check to see if there's a plate or something with a registration number for the well on it.


No, you can't because that's not an electrical box or cable but is rather a telecom cable and bracket.


Is it necessary to fill all the joints before install drywall tape on them?

It can be true depending on a few things. I would use a 20 min setting compound to fill all gaps/cracks/damaged areas. It will set by the time a room is done. Follow up with a tape and longer setting compound. For a DIY 20 min compound also acts as a warm up.


How far away must a woodstove be from walls?

In the US, there should be a 36" clearance between any point on the stove and any point on a combustible wall. Shielding should be mounted on non-combustible spacers which allow air circulation behind the shield. UL-listed stoves with attached heat shields may be installed with less clearance according to manufacturer's specifications (you should consult their documentation before purchase).

Reference


Add 2 downstream receptacles from a single outlet

I use the words "supply" and "onward" to refer to the two types of cables coming into an electrical box.  I don't use Line and Load, because those terms are special where GFCIs are concerned, and careless use of them leads to disaster.
LINE and LOAD: Just use LINE.
You say every receptacle you've ever dealt with has LINE and LOAD plainly marked.  That means you're only dealing with GFCI receptacles.
Virtually all GFCI receptacles have a feature that allows 2 wires on the LINE screws.   (If you need more, you can always pigtail).
GFCI devices have a very special feature called "Downline Protection".  It allows the GFCI device to confer GFCI protection to additional loads that are fed from it.  So for instance if you had a GFCI recep in a bathroom, it could protect a light inside the shower stall.  This Downline Protection feature should not be used casually or carelessly.  It should never, ever be used unless it is your specific intent to do that.
To protect a downline load, attach them to the LOAD terminals.  LOAD terminals should never be used for any other purpose.   That is why they put warning tape on them.
When you protect a downline load, there is more work to do.  The downline load must be troubleshot to assure there aren't pre-existing ground faults or miswiring.  Any receptacles must be labeled "GFCI Protected" (and also "No Equipment Ground" if that applies). These markings are mandatory, and are part of the act of protecting a downline load.  Ignoring this is a Code violation, and will get you written up at sale time.  Again, LOAD should never be used except for that purpose.
Of course you know what happens  :) Novices just slap the extra wires on LOAD and they don't even know what they are protecting, so they do not label those extra outlets.  They don't even know that they are protecting, so they are flummoxed when the socket just quits working.  Many call electricians only to be "led by the nose" to a GFCI they themselves installed. Whoops!
Part of my own "GFCI Protected" labeling is a statement of where the GFCI device can be found.
I'm fond of saying that warning tape says "Do Not Use. For Wizards Only". A wizard being someone who has learned to wield the downline-protection tech correctly.
...Or, do use LOAD. Deliberately.
Between what you already knew, and what you read between the lines above, I gather you have figured out the downline-protection stuff.  Congratulations, wizard!
Now... Use it when you want to, and when it makes sense.
If it best suits the situation, you can put one of them on LOAD and the other on LINE.  Or both on LOAD - this doesn't require a pigtail because the LOAD wires also can accept 2 wires under each screw (read the instructions to see how).
If you want to put both on LINE, given that there is already a wire on LINE, that would be three, so you'll need to pigtail.
Also revisit any past installations and move LOAD to LINE everywhere (except places where you specifically want downline protection).   In particular, eliminate any instance where LOAD of one GFCI feeds LINE of another.  That will cause major annoyances.
Watch out for box fill cubic inches
Now the box has finite size.  There'll be a practical issue fitting the wires and also a GFCI device, but there's also a statutory issue.  Given that your wire size is #12, you must allocate 2.25 cubic inches for each hot and neutral wire.

Pigtails are free.
All ground wires together count as one wire count.
A "yoke" (read: receptacle or switch) counts as 2 wire counts.   Yes, really; it counts the same whether it's a small 1-way switch or a fat GFCI.
If cable clamps intrude into the box, all of them together counts as 1 wire count.

So I count 6 for your hots and neutrals, 2 for your yoke, 1 for ground.  That's 9.
9 x 2.25 cubic inches = 20.25 cubic inches (or 22.5 with cable clamps).
Look around in the back of the box for a stamp indicating number of cubic inches in the box.
If you are beyond statutory maximums, or beyond practical maximums, you can get a box extension. One of my favorites is called the Legrand Wiremold Surface Conduit Starter Box.  It's made to give a 1" lift so you can run surface conduit off of the box, but if you just use it for the 1" lift, I won't tell ;)
If the breaker is 20A, then #12 wire. End of subject.
You can't come off a 20A circuit with #14 wire.  Not allowed.
If you're thinking "tap rule arcana" you need to read a lot more closely; that only applies to industrial applications in metal conduit etc. If you're in metal boxes, you're really in trouble on cubic inches lol.
If you're thinking the 15A GFCI device will somehow block >15A, no, it doesn't have any ability to do that.  As a matter of fact, it is specifically made to pass 20A.  UL requires every 15A rated receptacle be able to passthru 20A.  That matches a Code rule allowing 15A receptacles on 20A circuits.  That is so consumers and electricians only need to stock/buy one kind of receptacle for ordinary stuff.
Or, if the circuit is allowed to be 15A (kitchen, laundry and bathroom receps are not), then you can downgrade the breaker to 15A and run #14 as much as you please. This, however, invites some goober to see the #12 wire in the panel and think it's OK to up-breaker to 20A.


This is what the wiring should look like...

Notice the incoming ungrounded (hot) conductor is spliced, to supply power to each switch. The ungrounded (hot) conductors from the fixtures, are connected to the other side of the switches. The grounded (neutral) conductor is spliced with the grounded (neutral) conductors leading to the fixtures, and all the grounding conductors are tied together and to the box (if it's a metal box).


How to attach PEX pipe to plaster walls in laundry room?

If it were me, I would go with #4 but use 1X6 instead, placing both pipes on the single horizontal piece. If it is plaster and not sheetrock, use screws to hold everything in place. You could even use it as a shelf ledger in places where appropriate. Use the black plastic device for all of the holding, except use longer screws where there is pipe insulation. The clamps hold the pipe without the screws drawn tight and the longer screws act as a standoff.


EMT is okay for wet areas, in fact it's widely used in outdoor settings. If you're concerned about moisture, you could use compression fittings and metal boxes intended for wet settings. However, they'll likely be more expensive and may not be needed (others may confirm/deny).


What is this fixture on my external water faucet and how can I remove it?

Backflow preventer:      The fitting closest to the faucet MUST unscrew CCW.

Looking at your bib at the house siding, its not secured.  Use a second wrench on the faucet, torquing in the opposite direction to the wrench on the backflow adapter.  This will prevent you from busting the water pipe and REALLY making a mess.  Backflow article


Is it possible to create a drywall ceiling around pipes?

You could build a soffit out of 2x4s (or 2x2s) and screws. Once it is complete, you can wrap it in drywall like any other wall. The boards that touch the external wall may need to by pressure treated (check your local codes).


Proper way to join PVC pipes to brass ball valve

This is the standard method of attaching PVC pipe to threaded fittings. More turns and less tape. Pipe threads are tapered, in my experience 1-2 turns past hand tight is not nearly enough (and I generally only use 3 turns of Teflon tape).

Make sure that your brass ball valve is not cracked, brass is fairly soft and I have seen the threaded part of brass valves crack longitudinally due to over-tightening, especially with some of the cheap thin imported crap valves these days.

If you want to be able to unscrew it later without cutting the pipes, install a union.


Do I need a slope in drain lines under sink?

You do. You want at least 1/4" per foot to keep liquids flowing and carrying any sediment or waste into your drain line. It shouldn't be hard to accomplish given your setup.
Edit
To adjust height you need to loosen the nut on the right tailpiece and raise it up on the slip joint. You may have to trim a little off the tailpiece to do that. Do the same for the lower tailpiece on the left below the inlet and above the trap. Slip joints will typically have enough play to allow you to make these type of adjustments but sometimes they require trimming.
One tip - It's often easier to make this type of adjustment if you slightly loosen all of the plastic nuts first to give you a little play when setting the slope. Just don't forget to retighten afterward and check for leaks.


How to buy a land and build a cottage in the United States?

There are many different rules in various areas of the US, but here are some broad guidelines.

Build

Just because some piece of land is in a residential area, it doesn't mean you can build on it. First you must determine zoning.  This is a categorization that a locality places on land, regulating what can be put on land (one family houses, multiple family houses, commerce, farm buildings, dockage, etc.). It also regulates how big a plot of land is needed of a given type of structure or usage (1/8 acre, 2 acre, etc.). Finally, you need to check if there are restrictions on the land, such as not subdivision, farm only, open land requirements. There are many pieces of land in residential areas that you cannot build a house upon.

Next you may need planning authority approval. This controls where on a piece of land you place a building, how a house is accessed from a road, whether accessory buildings are allowed and where they can be placed, where sewage disposal units or fields need to b e placed, whether fencing or foliage screening is required. Some juriosdictions handle this as a separate process and some relegate this to the building department.

Finally, you must comply with building regulations, if the area has them. At very least, most jurisdictions have health regulations covering drinking water and waste water. Most have building standards covering foundtion, construction, electricity, and plumbing. You may have to submit plans in advance for approval and may have to have various inspections done during or after construction to ensure compliance with rules and standards.  While there are national guideline standards that many jurisdictions adopt as regulation, there are a lot of local variations based on local conditions (such as climate) and practice.

Connect

Many areas of the US have utilities present on or at the edge of a given piece of property.  Many do not.  Vast areas have no central water or sewer service. If not, there may be an option (or a requirement) to hook into existing water and sewer. If so, you probably have to pay to run the lines to your property and then to any dwelling you build. There are often restrictions on how large a house you can connect.

If there is no central water and/or sewer available, you will have to install a well and a septic system.  Each locale has rules about the type and positioning of these units. These usually require installation by a licensed practioner, and a certification of compliance.

Electricity similarly is available in many locations at property lines, but if not, you may have to pay to bring power to the site. Some locations have natural gas hookups for heat, but again, if it is not already at the proerty line, you may have to pay to run a branch line to your site. Otherwise, oil, electric, bottled gas, wood may be needed for heat.

Address

Most locals have pre-assigned addresses for each parcel of land, generally referred to by the name of the access road and a number that may be arbitrary or based on a measurement from some reference point. If a piece of land is being subdivided, a new address may need to be generated by the local authority. These are often done on tax maps controlled by the town or county.

In many areas, postal service is available to a mailbox at the roadside or to a front door (usually in city or dense suburban settings). Some areas have restrictions on mail boxes and do not allow street deliveries or require clustered boxes at the end of a road or other central location.  In many places, post office boxes (P.O. Boxes) located in a local post office are the more typical way of receiving mail.

As others have suggested, the range of issues may make it advisable to enlist the aid of a local builder to learn about and navigate the complexities of getting all the necessary pieces in place.


What could be causing a dripping sound inside the wall?

Often this isn' t a drip at all, but pipes moving due to thermal expansion and slipping in their supports. If it doesn't happen when you run COLD water, that's almost certain.


Sink overflow drain not cast all the way through

Probably not, unless it's just lightly plugged with a thin flash (eggshell thickness or so) you can break through without breaking the overflow channel (either out to the underside or in to the sink bowl.) If it's a plug of thickness similar to the channel walls, I doubt you'll get through it without going wrong in one of those directions.

This should have been inspected and found at the time of original installation when it would more easily have been resolved by return to the supplier for a correct one. If you have a really top-notch supplier that might still be possible.


My Hydro Air Heat started spraying hot water from some kind of vent or valve or nipple

It's a Bell & Gossett Air Separator.  If you run your system with the nipple closed then it does not do its job and air bubbles are trapped making your system less efficient and shorter lifespan.  But tightening down the nipple does not render the system unusable or in danger of immediate break-down.

It's a Bell & Gossett Model 11211x.  The reason for the 'x' at the end it that it seems like it has been discontinued from the Bell & Gossett website here.  At the site you see a picture of it in a group of other items, but if you click the picture you see the other items but not this one.

One suppler seems to still have some in stock here.  And maybe this one as well.  They seem to think it is SKU 112113 or 112112, but others seem to have a slightly different picture of the 112113 SKU.


How to I “set out” the holes for hinges?

If you're going to recess the hinges, you'll want to create a jig and use a router for the recess. I would recommend aligning the door and frame together and marking between the two at each hinge location as a reference point so that you don't install one at the wrong height.

When you're ready to screw in the hinge, place it on the door and frame to mark the locations of the screw holes and then drill pilot holes. Make sure your drill is level and square to the surface so you don't end up with crooked screws.

Finally, when you first attach the hinge to one side, don't tighten it all the way down, leave some play in it. Do the same when you screw it in to the other surface. Then tighten one screw on each side at a time, verifying that the door still swings freely as you go.


What can cause a blockage in an otherwise decent main sewer pipe?

You have a camera view and a Plummer that says the pipes are good . In this case "shit happens" the drains can be fine for years then you do some cleaning and a hair ball runs into a feminine hygiene product and the drain clogs. Since the Plummer is not trying to get you to replace the cast I would not worry because of the case I have listed seamed to happen with rentals after cleaning and new tenants.


It's probably carbon from burnt plastic (maybe from wire insulation... so charred cloth if the wires are 60 years old). A picture might be helpful.


Why doesn't my air conditioner fan come on when the condenser starts?

Mark and remove the wires from R and G. Add a jumper wire across R and G. You should hear a click (that's the relay on the board) and the motor should start. If not check your capacitor (little oval device attached to this blower housing) be very careful as capacitors can give you a massive shock even when powered down. They are essentially high capacity, quick charge/discharge batteries. The rating printed on it should be around 5-10 micro farads. The reading on your multimeter should be within 1 of the printed value. Also check for power output of 120v on the fan terminal (most likely low cool with G jumpered High cool with Y jumpered) on the board with your other lead to ground. No 120v on the high or low cool terminal with R jumpered to G, your board is fried. Yes 120v your capacitor or motor is fried if the cap is good and the motor is bad change the cap and motor together.

There are elements to this diagnostic that are potentially harmful and should not be done by the average DIYer. Hopefully it's the cap. Easy and cheap fix.


Can the internal part of a slip-on tub spout be removed to install it as a front-end threaded spout?

You could return it  for the correct one.

I guess my other option is to cut the pipe?

Clean off the pipe with emery cloth, cut the threaded male fitting off  and deburr  the end of the pipe so you do not damage the O ring in the spout.
Now you have pipe you can slip the spout onto.
I do not think trying to remove the threaded part of the spout is a good idea but if you can afford another one if it breaks then go for it.


Will my electrical sub panel handle a HVAC load

You'll need to swap that BR260 in your garage panel for a BR290 to do this

Right now, given that the house panel serves 1000 ft2 at 3VA/ft2, as well as three small appliance branch circuits for the kitchen at 1500VA apiece, and an 8kVA allowance for your range, we plug those numbers into the standard Article 220 load calculation procedure and get about 52-53A of load on this panel out of it.  Since your AC pulls 15A of nameplate current, we tack that on and get about 66-67A of load in the new configuration, too much for the existing 60A breaker.

However, the fact that your SER cable is 2AWG is the saving grace here.  A 2AWG aluminum SER cable running between two pieces of distribution equipment with 75°C rated lugs is good for 90A; I suspect it was breakered at 60A simply because the electrician didn't have any breakers between 60A and 100A (or even simply above 60A) on their truck when they did the electrical update.  So, we can free up some wiggle room here by swapping the BR260 in your garage panel for a BR290.

From there, you can fit a BR220 in the house panel (or a GFTCB220 if you want to be ready for the 2020 NEC's expanded GFCI requirements), and run 14/2 or 12/2 (your choice since the minimum circuit ampacity on your AC is 15A, and air conditioners use the Article 440 wire and breaker sizing rules, which say "follow the nameplate" for everything we're concerned with here) to the air conditioner disconnect box.  You'll need to transition to individual THHNs of the same gauge in liquidtight or a prefabricated flex whip for the disconnect box to air conditioner connection, by the way.


How can I convert switched receptacles to half switched receptacles?

This is what your circuit looks like now.

Click for larger view

Start by turning the power off at the breaker, and verify power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.

When you look at the side of the receptacles, you'll see a small tab between the screw terminals.

Using a pair of pliers, break the tab off of the ungrounded (hot) side of the receptacles (the brass screw terminals side).

So your circuit will now look like this.

Click for larger view

If you left it like this the top half of the first receptacle would work with the switch, but the bottom half and the second switch would never have power.  Using a small bit of black wire and a twist-on wire connector, remove the red wire from the screw terminal and connect it to the black wire and the top screw terminal.  So your circuit looks like this.

Click for larger view

With the circuit like this the top half of both receptacles will be controlled by the switch, but the bottom will never be powered.  To make the bottom half of the receptacles work, you'll have to use a bit of black wire to connect constant power to the lower screw terminal of each receptacle. When you're done, your circuit will look like this.

Click for larger view

Finish up by remounting all devices, installing trim plates, and turning the circuit breaker back on. At this point the bottom half of the receptacles should always have power, and the top should be controlled by the switches.

If at any time during this project you feel uncomfortable, do not hesitate to contact a local licensed Electrician.

I'm just a guy on the internet, not a licensed Electrician.  Assumptions may have been made on the current wiring, based on your descriptions. Without being there, there is no way to be sure these assumptions are correct.  Please proceed with caution, and at your own risk.


it will tap/slide apart. if it's stiff (as mine were) then a place a slotted screwdriver on the metal bracket on the left hand side in the photograph and give it a tab using a hammer. This will help to avoid stressing the 3 screws used to hold this part of the fixing into the wood.


What is causing these water heater pipes to rust/corrode?

Looks like minor leaks, compounded by mixing galvanized pipe and copper/bronze valve without using dielectric couplings between dissimilar metals.
Honestly, any plumber installing NEW galvanized pipes (rather than just making repairs to existing) in the past 5 years is doubtful. If you really want threaded pipe, stainless is available and lead-free, which galvanized iron pipe is not.


How to correct possible subfloor l/360 deflection under live load, when basement below is finished

Typical requirement for US building codes is l/360 live load deflection limit. So it is not quite accurate to classify this as a correction if the design deflection is l/337.

If the finish material requires a stiffer floor, then a structural change is required for aesthetics and or performance, but not for structural safety. Structural modifications will normally require selective demolition of finishes whenever structure is not exposed.

The options are:

install the tiles with l/337 deflection and live with the possibility of aesthetic and or performance issues.
expand the project scope to modify the structure.
select a different floor finish.


Why do decks and porches have cracks between the boards?

The main reason for the gaps is to give wood room to expand and contract as moisture levels in the wood changes due to it being exposed to the weather. Without that spacing, the wood may expand and buckle, damaging the deck, and requiring repairs beyond the simple popped nail.


Do I need separate expansion tanks for my boiler and hot water heater?

I cannot see why an expansion tank would be required with a tankless waterheater. The heater only comes on when a valve is opened and water is flowing through the tankless heater and the pipes. When all the valves are shut the tankless heater turns off. The hot water trapped (marooned in the hot water lines) cools and contracts. The heated water pipes also contract and there would only be an increase in pressure if the volume of the pipes decreased more than the decrease in volume of the trapped water. I don't believe it does and anyway the volume in the pipes is so small that any pressure increase in the pipes would be negligible.

Pressure increase in the water system of a residence with a hot water tank occurs because when hot water is used the water in the tank is replaced with cold water which continues to be heated after the valves are turned off. This large volume of cold water expands significantly as it is heated from cold to about 140 F. If the residence has a backflow prevent valve, then the increased volume of the now trapped water leads to an increase in pressure to the point that pipes or fixtures can be damaged. But if the residence does not have a backflow prevent valve, then the pressure in the house will not rise but will simply stay at the pressure of the water main.

Addition in editing

In another thread on this site someone made the statement that most or all city water meter "yokes" have a simple check valve to prevent backflow. I have not tried to confirm this for Dallas TX where I live. This would mean that all residences with a hot water tank could benefit from having an expansion tank, but AFIK expansion tanks are not used in Dallas. We had tank water heaters for 30 years and noticed no sign of pressure build-up. However, water pressure at the meter here in Dallas is relatively low, I think about 50 psi.


12/3 cable coming from box, is this correct?

Red is carrying switched-hot off to another location where a light might have been fed from.  It's not going straight back to the panel.  If you follow it you'll probably come to a good place to fork off more light fixtures.
Red is the preferred color for switched-hot.
Now there are a few issues with this box. It's extremely over-full.  You have 11 wires in there + ground + cable clamps, so I see 13 wire counts... at #12 that's 29.25 cubic inches required for that box.  Those octagon boxes are about half that, so you'll need to get an octagon "extension box" to put on top of this box.  Or you could change the box to a 4-11/16" square box (42 cubic inches).
As far as the aluminum to copper splices, purple wire-nuts may be Code but they sure like to start fires. You'd be wise to consider Alumiconns for up to 3 wire connections, and MAC Block connectors for 4+ wires.  The MAC Block has 2 voids and allows up to 4 wires per void (though the 4 must be the same metal).


The wire that is connected to the Y wire, and runs out to the condensing unit, should be in a cable with another wire.  That other wire should attach to the "common" side of the transformer. Find that wire, and attach your new C wire to it.


If I want to expose the beams of my ceiling, is it sufficient to just install roofing insulation?

Your climate is similar to mine...never too cold and never too hot. That’s why not having insulation in your attic to date, isn’t critical.  However, any insulation is a plus, but you’ll have several issues to overcome: 1) fastening vapor barrier to roof, 2) fastening of “roofing” on insulation board, 3) added structure height at eave and rake, 4) finishing of interior beams and ceiling material, 5) added weight to roof structure, 6) cost, and 7) Environmental issues.

1) A “hot roof” could mean a built-up roofing system. This means you have a low-pitch roof and you don’t have roof shingles. If so, tearing off the old roofing membrane and installing a new membrane on rigid insulation is easy and the vapor barrier is part of the system, including how the vapor barrier is secured to the roof. If not, it becomes a bit more complicated because you’ll need to add the proper vapor barrier on the old deck and secure it to the roof, then add rigid insulation, then add plywood on the insulation to hold the shingles, without any fasteners extending through the ceiling material.

2) The easiest method to fasten shingles to roof is with plywood. However, you may need wood stripping if you live in a “high wind climate.”

3) If you raise the height of the roof by a few inches, you’ll need new edge metal. Also, if it’s a historic district, like the mission district, you’ll need Planning Department approval for increased height.

4) After the ceiling is removed you’ll need to finish the beams and ceiling. All those nails / holes / etc. will need to be addressed.

5) You’ll need to calculate the weight of what is being removed and subtract the weight of what is being removed. Then, verify the structure is adequate.

6) $$$$$$$$ vrs. Potential savings from heating and cooling. Check with you local power company to see if they have rebates for adding insulation. They have people who can calculate the savings for 2” thick or 4” thick insulation and various kinds of rigid board.

7) That 1930’s plaster ceiling could have asbestos or those 900 coats of paint could have lead. You’ll need to have it tested.

Sounds simple...oh, and you are getting a Building Permit, right?


How do I do a minor grout repair properly?

When I've done grout repair I've cleaned out the old grout, did some slight prodding to see if anything else was loose, made sure the area was bone dry and then got a small batch of grout from the local hardware store. You can probably buy a small tub of the premixed grout (unless you have colored grout then you're stuck buying a larger tub usually).

I just put it on as normal grout, slap it on, push it in, smooth it out a bit, let it dry and wipe off the excess. It'll take a little while to fade in but now it looks like it was part of the original tile job.


what would cause a bathroom sink connector hose to pop off

Since those flex connectors are pretty cheap, I'd just buy a new one rather than figure out whether the existing one has lost tension at the spring connection or just got dirty/greasy enough to lose hold.

Of course, make sure the end of the source pipe is clean, and if it looks worn or damaged, cut a half-inch or so off before reconnecting.


Why does a single switch on the wall control only the fan on my ceiling fan?

Answer:. Now fixed. Tan and white were neutral wires ( hooked together correctly) The blue wire (light hot wire)  from fan was not hooked to hot wire coming out of box. Just disconnected small black wire from blue (capped it off) then connected blue wire to the black coming from ceiling. Now light and fan can be controlled by switch or pull chains!!!


What is this grey fungus/insect, and is it damaging the woodwork?

My dad removed them this morning, and they are a fungus.  A lot of dark spores came out when he pierced one (see photo).

The fungus didn't damage the paintwork, as can be seen in the photos; it just left a mess of spores behind.


Paint is scraping and wiping off too easily

It looks like other people have had similar problems with this paint. It could be a bad batch of paint, or a strange interaction between the old paint and the new, but I think it's more likely that the wall just needed a little more preparation than is normal.

Most modern latex paints will stick to glossy undercoats pretty well, but it never hurts to rough up the underlying surface with a 100-150 grit sand paper. I've also heard several painters say that the best prep they ever did was wiping everything down with a 1:10 solution of Clorox Bleach and water. Anytime I paint anything, I will run over the whole surface with a scraper just to get anything that comes up easily.

I hope that helps!


I have voltage leaking between two wires!

Any time I measure an undervoltage like that I immediately suspect a broken or floating neutral wire. This is potentially hazardous because it means other outlets and devices in the same house may be seeing an overvoltage.

If you are confident that you have measured those voltages accurately, then all the electrical service in your house may be dangerous. The safest thing to do is turn off the main circuit breaker and call a licensed electrician.


What size knee braces should I install on my Pergola?

That's a beautiful pergola, and to preserve its style I would use the same timbers as you used for your posts. I'd make the vertical and horizontal legs of the triangle 1/3 of the post height, unless that causes serious headroom interference, then reduce a bit to no less than 1/4 of post height. Much less than that and you won't see much benefit.
I'd make all the knee braces the same length, so that they interface with the posts at different heights due to the rafter height.
The connection between the rafters is fairly straight-forward. The connection at the post is less so. Large lag screws, countersunk and level, or carriage bolts all the way through would be good. That connection will have the most tendency to slip, reducing the effectiveness of your effort.
Here's a similar example courtesy of StrongTie. In this case the knee braces connect to the post at the same height, but I pictured yours being vertically offset (to match the height of the rafters). I would also deviate from this photo by running the bolts in horizontally. You'll need shorter bolts and I think you'll end up with a better connection.


Custom device mounted in electrical receptacle box?

That would not be code-compliant. The NEC requires that all installed equipment be listed by a recognized testing laboratory (i.e. Underwriters' Laboratories, "UL", in the US) who has performed safety testing.
One way to deal with this is to outsource the switching job to a listed relay that mounts in or to a junction box, so that the mains voltage is completely contained in the junction box. Outside, the relay gives you terminals (for either closing a circuit or providing a voltage) to control the relay. Your custom IoT gadget can control the mains circuit without needing to be listed itself, because it is isolated from the mains power.
Random example relay


Studs 16 inches on center, but extra one between two of the studs with electrical outlet?

I never waste a stud for a receptacle. You may commonly find extra studs in on or close to corners or where walls join but To put a stud in for a receptacle unlikely, receptacles have spacing requirements 12’ between them or no point more than 6’ from a receptacle with continual walls (no door ways etc). But there is no minimum spacing they can be next to each other.


How can I fill gaps in wall plates on an uneven backsplash?

There are insulating gaskets for switches and outlets like these

They would help seal against air leaks, but they might not visually fill the gaps at the edge of a switch plate.

There are also deep beveled switch plates, such as those found here. You could custom grind these down with a dremel-type tool to fit the highs and lows of the surface, but that would be a pretty time consuming task.

While you probably could caulk the gaps, you should be careful to avoid getting any into the box and wiring itself. Also, caulking will make removal of the cover plate a bit more difficult.


Question on Furnace/EIM Wiring and Splice

Your system is not really hooked up wrong, just odd. It looks like the installer read the directions from Honeywell and it looked like he needed to take power directly from the transformer. Honeywell doesn’t know what equipment you will be hooking up to so their directions are generic. Those two wires from the transformer do not need to be there. The R from the furnace should go to the R on the receiver and then jumper to Rc and Rh. The C from the furnace should be hooked to the C on the receiver. The extra wires are not hurting anything since they are coming from the same 24 volt transformer.
If you were to install a new thermostat you would need to remove the old thermostat and receiver since the receiver will only work with either the Focus Pro and Vision Pro wireless thermostats. You would then either run a new  5 wire cable from the furnace to the new thermostat or run a cable from the new thermostat to where the receiver used to be and splice into the wires there.
I would use the blue wire to hook to the C on the furnace and the C on the receiver and loose the extra cable if you were to change thermostats or just leave it since it isn’t hurting anything.


Should I install bracing behind drywall for upper cabinets?

Absolutely, install backers.  I prefer 2X6 backers. This will make your life so much easier when you install your cabinets.


What type of wire should I use to feed a 70 ampere subpanel?

The wiring will have to be in some form of raceway the entire run. If you're using Non-metallic sheathed cable, the jacket fulfills this requirement. If you're running individual conductors, you'll have to use conduit or some other approved raceway.

As for conductor size. If you can meet all the requirements for using the 90°C column, you'll be able to use 6 AWG copper for the run. However, since you're less than 100 amperes, you're likely going to be using the 60°C column. This means whether you use single conductors or a cable assembly, you're still going to have to use 4 AWG conductors.

NOTES:
 - More information can be found in my answer to this question: What wire gauge do I need for a 100 Amp subpanel at the end of a 60' wire run?

 - After further research, it appears 75°C is common for load center terminals (check your specific equipment to be sure).


Installing a Remote Control Ceiling Fan with Light & Different Wire Configuration

First, check that you have the batteries installed in the correct direction in the remote. Some use both positive buttons up, some down, and some one of each.

Second, check that the remote and fan do not have a channel switch. These are usually mounted horizontally on the fan and are frequently labeled A/B or 1/2. If there is one, the fan and the remote must be set to the same value. It doesn't matter which one, use the one that works best in your home. Make sure the fan is turned off at the wall before changing this setting.

If that doesn't work, remove the lighting assembly and verify that the controls are connected in the space behind it. There are generally three screws around the edge of the plate where the lights attach to the fan. It may be helpful to have a second person safely assisting you. The colors there are generally white, black, and green that match the connections above. Red and/or blue may be used for the control wires in there as well.


How should I repair a hole in an attached garage?

The vapor barrier goes on the heated side of the insulation, or in your case, the side facing the bathroom. If the garage itself is conditioned space, there may only be a vapor barrier on the exterior walls and the insulation behind the bathroom would be for sound. Note that the craft paper backing on insulation is considered a vapor barrier.


What are my options for tiling over an uneven concrete floor?

One option would to roughly fill the deep depressions with a relatively inexpensive mortar mix, and only then pull out the self-levelling stuff so you can use less of it.


Loss of power when I remove item from the outlet

Defective receptacle.

Kill it with fire, before it kills you with fire.

And if it has backstab connections (wires jabbed in back holes that auto-grab them) this is a good time to  get rid of em.  Because they cause this kind of mischief too.


Is my garage safe with a 30amp breaker and some odd wiring

Good diagnostic post!  You have a number of safety issues, chief of which is all those receptacles and 12/14awg wiring should not be fed by a 30A circuit breaker.  How fast you decide to fix them is up to you, but you're right that it is a fire hazard.
For example, a 14awg NM-B cable can carry 15A without exceeding a 60C design temperature (someone will surly correct me if I'm remembering the values wrong.)  The requirements for installing this type of cable (no conduit needed, okay to be in contact with insulation, etc.) are specified with that 15A in mind.  When you exceed it by using a 30A breaker, some person could plug two big space heaters into a receptacle, cause the 14awg cable to overheat, and it could start a fire, all without tripping the circuit breaker.
My suggestion is to start by replacing the 30A breaker.  If you change it to 15A the wiring you have currently (aside from the improper splices) is basically safe.  If you change to a 20A breaker you will need to upgrade the 14awg wire to 12awg.
Book recommendation
By the way, you may want a book to help you get started.  As @ThreePhase explains, there are plenty of other things you want to do to make all this safe and up to code; and it's hard to cover them all in Q&A form.  I like the Black & Decker Complete Guide to Wiring, which is available at home improvement stores and many libraries.  It's heavily-illustrated and aimed right at DIY homeowners.


How can I efficiently dig small footing holes?

For that size hole, I'd probably go with a Post Hole Digger.  If it's sharp and there aren't too many rocks or roots, you just shove it into the ground, pull the handles apart, and lift.

However, for the number you're going to be digging, it might be better to visit your local tool rental shop, and rent a gas powered auger.  If you can get a second person, the two person models are a lot easier to control ... you can then square it off with a shovel, and either get the last bit out by hand, or with a post hole digger.


If you unscrew the metal ring, it will expose three or four screws - check those screws are tight. If necessary, replace the screws with slightly thicker ones and/or pack the screwholes using something like matchsticks.

own work CC BY-SA 3.0 redgrittybrick

Those screws tend to work loose - I just went and tightened up mine! In my case the original fitter was a bit  parsimonious with the screws - I might add more screws in the unpopulated hole positions later.

The set-screw/grub-screw on the underside of the handle, secures the handle to the spindle -- an unseen brass or steel bar of square cross section that passes through the door and thus through the mortice-latch mechanism. Tightening this set-screw is insufficient to make the handle feel firm and properly secured.

If the transverse grip of your handle is loose on the visible shaft, you may need to replace the whole handle. Dismantling the whole thing and taking it apart may reveal a fixable cause of the problem.


Power company's neutral cause surges and brownouts?

The best way to explain this is to take a look at some circuit diagrams, and do some math.

We know that in a parallel circuit, the voltage across all loads is the same. So we know the voltage across each resistor is 120V, so we can easily calculate the amperage at each resistor.

I=E/R = 120V/1000 ohms = 0.12 amps

Now that we know the current at each resistor, we can find the total current using the following formula.

It = I1 + I2 = 0.12A + 0.12A = 0.24A

We find total resistance in a parallel circuit like this.

Rt = R1 x R2 / (R1 + R2) = 1000ohms x 1000ohms / (1000ohms + 1000ohms) = 1000000 / 2000 = 500 ohms

So Voltage = 120V, Current = 0.24A, and Resistance = 500 ohms on each leg A and B of the of the circuit.

Now if we break (open) the neutral, we have changed the circuit from two 120V parallel circuits to one 240V series circuit.  Now we have to change our values, and do some new calculations.

We can use our total resistance calculations from before, to determine the resistance values for each parallel section of the circuit. We can now say we have a 240V series circuit with two 500ohm resistors, so we'll calculate total resistance by adding the resistances. Lets simplify our diagram.

Rt = R1 + R2 = 500ohms + 500ohms = 1000ohms

Next lets calculate the total current.

It = Et / Rt = 240V / 1000ohms =  0.24A

Now we can find the voltage at each combined load.

V1 = It x R1 = 0.24A x 500 ohms = 120V

We can see with a balanced load, we'll still see 120V like normal.  But what happens when we have an open nuetral, and an unbalanced load?

Rt1 = 1 / (1/1000 + 1/1000 + 1/1000) = 1 / 0.003 = 333.33ohms

Rt2 = 1 / (1/1000 + 1/1000) = 500ohms

Rt = Rt1 + Rt2 = 333.33ohms + 500 ohms = 833.33ohms

It = 240V / 833.33 = 0.29A

VRt1 = 0.29A x 333.33ohms = 96.6657V

VRt2 = 0.29A X 500 ohms = 145V

As you can see, if you measure hot to neutral on leg A you'll read 96.6657V, while leg B will measure 145V.

What you're seeing is the different characteristics of parallel vs series circuits.  In a parallel circuit voltage is constant and amperage varies, however, in a series circuit amperage is constant and voltage varies.


Either way you go here there's drywall and paint involved.

If it's not load bearing, just move the stud until you can fit the larger door. Barring miracles this will involve removed, replacement and refinishng of drywall.

If it's load bearing, add a stud on one side to make the new opening and drywall it in, since you can't cover it (or one on each side) with trim.


Assuming both existing concrete pads are stable, I see no problem adding whatever bit of a pad you need for an AC unit. Do you ever see them move independently during the spring thaw? Just leave an 1/8 to 1/4 inch expansion joint between the new concrete and the pad you are trying to match level with. Simply frame up a form with plywood cut to proper height, support the sides with a few blocks so they will stay straight, pour some sacrete and screed it smooth.  Float it after it starts to set up if you want a smoother finish.  I'm quite sure you will be fine.


Can't put a receptacle here

Receptacles are not allowed on a circuit if more than half its capacity is provisioned to hardwired loads.  A built-in air conditioner circuit will be 22A or so.

Can't put 15/20A receptacles on a 30A circuit

The circuit is breakered for 30A.  That means you can't have a 15A or 20A recep on it, in any case.

The wall-wart doesn't lend itself to hardwiring... Unless it does

All the Dyson power supplies I turned up in a search were "hang off a socket" type wall-warts, and had a built-in plug matched to local power.  Presumably yours is NEMA 1-15 or 5-15.  If instead of a plug there were a pair of wires, we could make a case for "hard-wiring" the load, dodging the "no receptacles" and "no 15/20A receptacles" rules.  However, I don't see a way to attach wires to that which I could defend to the inspector with a straight face.

There's also a question of whether the power supply is a factor in the battery charging.  Batteries - especially the popular lithium batteries - absolutely require circuitry to prevent overcharging.   If the vacuum simply wants a generic DC voltage such as 12 volts, and has that charge-controller circuitry onboard, then we can substitute any generic DC power supply of the coarsely correct voltage, and that can include supplies that lend themselves to hard-wiring.  However, if the "keep the lithium battery from exploding" charge control circuitry is in the Dyson wall-wart, then we ned a Dyson branded supply involved somehow.

See if Dyson makes a car charger (cigarette lighter) for it.  If they do, then any 12 volt DC power supply will do that supports hardwiring. It can be brought out to a cigarette lighter socket if it doesn't have one built-in. Then, use the Dyson car charger.

Don't trust that neutral

It's probably not even connected in the panel. By the way, the way you test it is measuring 120V between each hot and neutral.  Regardless, I would just wire up the load 240V, as that dodges multi-wire branch circuit complications.  Do not under any circumstance put a NEMA 5 socket on 240V.


What should I do with an old, unused septic tank in my yard?

You'll have to check codes, but I believe the usual procedure is to fill them with something like sand - since it's a septic tank, and since (I presume) you had it emptied before leaving it to rot, you probably don't need to clean it, just get it filled.

You can NOT just leave it there - eventually it will rot away and collapse, presenting a hazard at some unknown future time.

You might call around to the local septic companies and ask them what the usual procedure is in your area, they should know who can handle the fill-in of the tank properly.


It's OK (desirable, actually) if the new transformer's VA is higher. The transformer VA rating indicates how much load the transformer can safely support. The doorbell VA rating indicates how large the doorbell load may be. It's important for the voltages to match and for the VA rating of the transformer to be higher than the VA rating of the loads (the sum of the chime and the Ring device). This is analagous to payload capacity of a vehicle: the actual load should not exceed the carrying capacity.

Since tracing the low-voltage doorbell wire back to the transformer isn't working, maybe you can work the other direction. Turn off all circuits in the building except the one that powers the doorbell. If the circuit isn't marked, turn off circuits one at a time until the doorbell doesn't work anymore.

With the supply circuit identified, and with only that circuit powered, you could trace that circuit with a the tone pickup tool you've been using, a non-contact voltage tester, the live wire warning in a stud finder tool, etc. "In theory" by inspecting every connection along that circuit's path you'd eventually find a pair of light-gauge stranded wires spliced into the circuit somewhere. Those would be the leads of the existing bell transformer.

Even if the transformer is mounted somewhere awful, like on the back side of a steel outlet or light junction box behind a finished wall or ceiling, at least its mains power junction should be accessible and therefore disconnectable.


I would say that the snap toggles are a lousy way to hang a shelving unit like that if only mounting into drywall by itself. If you had any hope of using the shelving unit any where near its load capacity the drywall only solution is a total non-starter.

I see two possible solutions to this situation:

Install a horizontal strip of wood across the studs aligned with the mount point on each bracket. These are secured with screws into the studs. Other screws then secure the shelf rails to the wood strips.
Apply a plywood backer against the wall behind where the shelf will be installed. The plywood is screwed to the studs using numerous screws. The shelf rails are then mounted onto the plywood using suitable wood screws.

In both cases the wood/plywood can be painted to match the wall color so they do not stand out. Of course in the case of the plywood it could be finished in a way to look like a back for the shelves if it's size matched the full width and height of the shelf unit.


Why do the wires to my dryer's thermostat keep burning off?

Since I my last edit, which has been a few years, I have replaced various components in the dryer, including thermostats, wires, etc. I discovered there were burn marks on the wire terminals and the component it lead to. The failure was fairly consistent and wondered why it keeps happening. Lo and behold, the terminals I was using were insulated crimp terminals and it was increasing the resistance of the wire causing it to burn out. I never suspected it because there was no apparent melting of the plastic insulator. I wanted to use non-insulated terminals, but they were very difficult to find and removing the insulation from the terminal connector made an unreliable connection.


Kitchen Fan extraction not working as intended

buy yourself an endoscope and send it up the vent so you can see what is going on. probably clogged


Getting melted Tupperware and Play-Doh out of an oven

Most household plastic will become more brittle the colder it is; Tupperware is likely the same.

You could try putting ice cubes on one of the thinner parts and see if it becomes brittle enough to snap.  If it does, you could try freezing the whole pile with dry ice.  Other freezing techniques include squirting a can of compressed-air dusting spray held upside down.  See for example dusting spray.  Or if you need more volume, a CO2 fire extinguisher.  Spending $30 on an extinguisher is still cheaper than a new oven.

Wear thick leather gloves when trying any of the freezing techniques.


Can I vent a microwave vent / range hood through wall?

There is no standard mounting or vent hole dimensions for these type of microwaves. Although most of them adapt to 4inch vent hose, there is no standard to where on the back of the microwave the vent is attached, and this can effect where you need to cut your hole in the wall, especially in 2X4 walls where you won't have a lot of room to offset the vent.


Water seeping through stained concrete in slab foundation - during heavy rain only

You may want to take a look at your roof vents (stacks). There's a plastic boot around the vent that cracks over time. Rain water can leak through & travel down the pipe to the slab. If this seems likely, there's something called a Perma-boot (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) that you can install yourself. It fits over the existing roof vent boot. Good luck!


I feel like an idiot but it turned out to be the subwoofer in the living room that apparently died while I was working on that dimmer. This is after checking the attic today, checking out the alarm system's control unit and lowering the water pressure last week. Since the sound seemed to come from the wall I just decided to unplug everything one by one and that's how I found out it's the subwoofer. Since it's against the wall the sound travels up and is amplified by the wall.

Yes I'm an idiot, but I'm glad it's solved at least. thanks for all the help and suggestions.


Trying to wire a water heater to a breaker box

Call an electrician, if you're asking these questions you don't have the basic knowledge required to complete this safely and properly.

Without additional details it's literally impossible to provide guidance to you. There's many variables here such as if this is a standard main panel vs a sub panel and the type of water heater you're installing. You also didn't include the wiring gauge you're using or the input voltage from the utility (120V , 230V, 240V).

Dangerous and improper wiring kills over 500 people every year in the US, don't be one of them.


Is it a problem that my toilet flange is 3/8" below the surrounding tile?

A double wax ring will probably work but IMO the better option is a toilet flange extender.  It is just another flange ring that sits on top of the original flange to get it up to the correct height.  Then you install the wax ring and toilet as usual.

I don't have any experience with this particular kit but something like this Toilet Flange Extender Kit.


I'm having trouble visualizing the whole layout. That said I also have knee walls and sloped ceilings. I was able to force attic baffle vents between the insulation and roof by taping them together, then pushing them up with 1x2 sticks. It's not perfect I'm sure, but does allow some ventilation from behind the kneewall to the main attic. Of course, I have soffit vents at the top plate behind the kneewall and a standard ridge vents at the top of the roof.

If you really can't add soffit or ridge vents maybe consider making it a hot roof and add more insulation on the actual slope ceiling/roof, either interior or exterior (if a new roof is in order anytime soon)


Before National Electrical Code 2014, this was not allowed.  However, if your area has adopted the 2014 version of the code, this is now legal as long as both circuits originate from the same panel (250.130(C)(4)).

See this answer for more detail.


What could cause a heat pumps line sets to be the same temperature when running?

If the lines are the same temperature, that means they're at the same pressure.  Which is normal when the system is not running.  Once the system starts, the pressure in one line should go up, while the other goes down.

Since the pressures in your system are basically equal, I'd say the refrigerant is low.  You can verify this be connecting a set of gages to the system, or having a local HVAC technician do it for you.  If the refrigerant is low, it's likely you have a leak. The HVAC technician should be able to find and repair the leak, and recharge the system.


Is low voltage resulting in overcharging me for electricity?

A standard kWh meter measures both current and voltage directly, so no, don't worry about it -- it will compute correct usage no matter what the mains voltage does.


How can I wire this three-way circuit between two buildings with only 3 conductors?

Have you considered a remote for the house end of the garage hookup? I'm thinking a z-wave controllable light switch or something in the garage, and a remote control in the house. That way you can ignore the 12/3 romex and weird wiring (of that part of the circuit) and get on with your day.

I'm unclear whether it's allowed by code (especially with the colors you have), but with 3 wires, you've got enough for a single 30 amp circuit - ground, neutral and hot. Is that enough for the garage? That would at least be safe.


Your reason given (the wall stops - plenty of bearing walls do that) is not sound, but by cursory examination you appear to have a clearspan roof supported by beams that would have no reason to depend on this wall for support, so you are likely good to go. I'm guessing 1960's or early 1970's era based on the style (or when the style was popular in my area, anyway.)

As Ed notes, turn off the power first...


Gravel under vinyl fence post in clay soil?

The clay, as you state, will trap water with nowhere to go as well.  By digging the whole deeper and lining the bottom with gravel, what you do is provide a place for extra water to drain to until it can dissipate/drain.

Without that extra space for water to drain, it can fill up the hole above the frost line and cause lateral displacement.


The ball valve can, I assume, shut off the flow where you need to attach the adapter. In that case just close the valve, attach your adapter, and proceed.


Is PVC an acceptable pipe for a vent stack through the roof

National (international) plumbing codes identify vent pipe size, length above the roof, flashing and caps.  But does not specify material.  PVC, ABS and galvanized have all been used.
You are right PVC is not the best in sun, for my area in desert south west I do not know why builders use it but they do.  But same issue occurs on solar water heating systems and pool pumping/filter systems.  So I like to coat them with at least paint, but like to use white elastomeric roof coating if I have some handy.


First I will answer the question. Remove the window and reinstall it. You may need to adjust the lower sill or cut a little out of the header at the top to get it to set level. It is a non bearing wall so a 1/2" off the header will not matter. The sill will not have any extra material to cut out. Or you could simply resquare the window and let it run downhill like it already is.

You will not be able to trim any of the window sash to get it to fit back in without destroying the vinyl cladding, so it has to be reset.

Now for the real issue. The picture does not reveal any other symptoms but I will tell you what I see going on with the window

The wall to the left has settled for some reason, if it was originally a porch and not a living space, it may have not been structured the way a living space is needed. Either the footings where not sized properly and the footer settled down some or perhaps termites or carpenter ants got in there and caused some settling.

I would consider doing something with that, and it may not crack the window on it way back up, but when the window is corrected it will stay.


A water heater pressure relief valve/pipe is guided to release hot water outside of the pan (see picture). Is this installation correct?

I'd cut it off just above the first elbow. If there's a drain in the back of the pan it can empty out there. Not perfect, but better than what you got now.

The end of the relief pipe is supposed to come down to within 6" of the floor, but it looks like that's about where it would be.


Portable Indoor Airconditioner not cooling -- let's discuss possible reasons (and solutions)

If it's not an obvious mechanical failure, it could be (a) a problem with the controls or (b) a refrigerant leak.

Symptoms of control problems would be the compressor not turning on or not staying on. You should be able to hear it turn on/off distinct from the fan; if you aren't hearing that, then it may be repairable by replacement of a thermostat or the unit's control board.

A refrigerant leak would be likely if the compressor and fans are running fine, but it's not cooling. One sign of this would be constant running of the compressor. In a partial leak, you may find that a section of the coil is freezing over. Maybe you saw that last year?

If it's a refrigerant problem, the system could potentially be recharged. This is not a DIY job as the refrigerant chemicals are environmentally and personally dangerous, and require special equipment to recharge. You could try calling some appliance repair shops to see if they would do this repair.


How can I reduce whistling due to wind across a gas fireplace vent?

The first thing I would check, is to make sure there are no blockages in the vent. If there is debris restricting the flow of air, it could produce noise.

Another cause of this could be that the wind is blowing just rught across the top of the pipe causing it to vibrate, similar to blowing across the top of a bottle to produce sound.  To prevent this, you could try cutting small V shaped notches around the perimeter of the end of the pipe.

Cutting the end of the pipe at a slight angle (2-5° < 90°), may also prevent the wind from crossing the end of the pipe in a way that produces noise.


Why not consider putting down a sheet of vinyl similar to what might be used on a kitchen or bathroom floor.

You would have to ensure that the underlying OSB flooring material was fairly solid and all joints supported. If it is just one layer of OSB you may want to start with a second layer of OSB that has the sheets installed in a manner that no joints in the first and second layer are in the same places.


How much overlap should bypass doors have?

You want the doors to overlap a bit. You also want the two doors to be the same width so when they are slid all the way to one side or the other that they are even.

A one inch overlap is about ideal so for a 48" finished opening each door would be 24.5 inches wide.

Two 24" doors would not overlap at all and would not stay fully engaged into the center guide on the floor.

Doors wider than 24.5" would work just fine but you loose access width when the doors are open.

My suggestion is that you may want to look at bi-fold doors. These would take four ~12" wide door panels. They work with one track at the top and eliminate the center guide on the floor. When open you get much much easier access to the closet than with bypass doors. Plus when closed the whole surface is flat. The only time I consider bypass doors is when mirrored doors are used to give a smaller room a more expansive look.


Kitchen faucet has low water pressure but can't identify the faucet

Whilst this may not be the cause of your loss of water pressure you really should also look into replacing this shut off valve. The corrosion that shows here indicates that this has been leaking some and eating away at the metal of the pipe and fittings. Left long enough this can lead to very serious leak.


Why is one radiator TRV in the house missing the control?

I think on some systems at least one radiator should remain open to provide some circulation - maybe for the sake of the pump. This valve wouldn't have a TRV or the setting would be very high so it wouldn't ever close fully. Would that be why it's covered up?

The tiny radiator would be a good choice as it would dissipate and waste least heat.


Approximately never.

If you notice things growing in there or bugs breeding, a bit of soap (liquid dish detergent would be my first choice) will usually do in the bugs by altering the surface tension, and chlorine bleach will kill off bacterial slimes if there's not too much water flow (so it stays put for a while.) If there is water flow it should never get too nasty.

If you are not experiencing problems/smells, leave it alone - or perhaps put a cover over it if it lacks one, which will keep things from going into it and causing problems (small animals drowning, for instance - or the bugs that might want to breed in there.) If it also serves as a floor drain, put a screened section in the cover to allow water to flow in.


Can a flexible flue liner be installed in an old central heating flue for modern HVAC systems?

Yes, a flexible metal flue liner can often be installed in an old masonry flue. In fact, I had one done last year, where we had an old (wood-burning) fireplace and installed a gas-fired log fireplace insert. The contractor threaded the two flexible pipes down from the top -- one for combustion air and one for venting the exhaust.  Many modern boilers also have the option to use a sidewall power-vent, which doesn't need any flue at all -- just some PVC pipes.

There are numerous suppliers of flexible metal chimney-liners.


Temporary removal of one load bearing stud

One missing common stud is unlikely to cause problems, but the best answer is to observe what happens when you remove it. Is it very tight between the plates? Do you hear any creaking or popping from above? Does anything settle visibly or by careful measurement?

One other approach would be to install a small header (a 2x4 U would do) between the adjacent studs and tight to the top plate, and support it with trimmers tight to those studs. That would leave you with a 28-1/2" space in which to work and more confidence in a successful result. When you no longer need access, simply install a stud below the header in the original location.


Should I nail, and glue my hardwood flooring?

You said the subfloor is particle board, so if there's some kind of isolation under that you don't need more barriers.

Attaching your floor to the subfloor depends on what kind of floor that is. If it's floating floor, it needs to float, so no gluing at all, and you need some kind of padding to level out the floor. Generally floating floors are tongue/groove or click install.

And if it's kind of parquet you have to glue it to the subfloor, because the grip of nails to particle board is very weak.


What are my options for refinishing these cabinets?

The word "refinish" and the word "easy" do not belong in the same sentence.
Options:

If the doors, face frames, and boxes are real wood (as opposed to plasticized printed laminate) you could strip them, restain then, and varnish them. While not really "hard" per se, labor intensive when done correctly.
Sand and paint them. While not really "hard" per se, labor intensive when done correctly.
wash them, clean stuff like grease, dirt, and tape residue off, lightly sand with fine paper, re-varnish. While not really "hard" per se, labor intensive when done correctly.


How do I replace a sink drain body when there isn't a trap?

If there were a trap there, it would have the same type of threaded fitting that your existing drain assembly has.

cut the tailpiece a bit shorter
install a 1 1/2" slip-joint nut and 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" reducing slip-joint washer onto the tailpiece
insert the assembly all the way up through the hole in the sink
screw the upper drain assembly flange, packed with plumber's putty, onto the top of the drain assembly
lower the assembly such that the tailpiece enters the top of the drain pipe (it looks like it will line up)
tighten the lower lock-nut, such that it pushes the tapered gasket up against and centered on the hole in the sink, from below. This will tighten the drain assembly to the sink, effecting a seal at the top with the plumber's putty under the upper drain assembly flange. Wipe off excess putty that squeezes out.
slide the slip-joint washer and nut down to the threaded drain pipe fitting and tighten firmly (but carefully) with a wrench. P.S. hand tight is not good enough

picture from Google Images

p.s.s.- I am dubious of your presumption that a trap exists someplace downstream


An outside mount with no sill would at least give you a drip edge there. It's just installation step one: rest on sill. So be careful trying to mount an exterior one. For an inside mount, remove and measure the screen. Have them replicated as storms and hold them in with clips to promote annual use. Caulk it shut if you must. And the rest of your trim while you're at it (the other half of your problem). You may need to install backstops for the new window as your screen is held in place by butterfly latches.

I highly suggest dropping that cash on completely new windows which would be operable and more efficient; inherently greener. (saves you money)


How to deal with broken compact fluorescent (and its mercury) without breaking the bank?

The $3000 cleanup was never a thing.  It's an urban myth created from a political slander.  The goal of the slander was to resist CFLs at any cost, both to resist government regulation generally, and efficiency due to its association with climate change.  This also tied into 50 years of activism to reduce mercury in the environment.  The fact is, if the mercury in a broken CFL were any danger, or any problem in the waste stream, they would never have gotten government or UL approval in the first place.

So this was not a surprise; the mercury "problem" was contemplated and resolved long before it became a spiral shaped political football.   EPA and various state DEQ's have collectively rolled their eyes and said "allriiiight... Since you insisted on bringing this up, here are some best practices for cleaning up a CFL" and they involve stuff like mopping it up with the sticky side of duct tape.

You would be best following that advice.

(if you called enough remediation companies, eventually someone would take your $3000, but don't.)

If CFL recycling facilities exist at a nearby city or big box store, use them.

Otherwise just put it in the normal waste stream, not commingled or encased with recyclables. Don't put in a steel can.  You may not be aware of it, but they don't just tip the truck at the dump anymore, now it goes through a complicated screening to find recyclables. Some of it is automatic (magnets to pull out steel, magnetic-field tricks to flip out nonferrous metals etc.) and and hand inspection for bundles of newspaper and the like.

Using a steel can as a jacket for something nasty will only get the nasty thing into the steel recycling stream.


Is there a low cost way of reducing humidity?

I think the comment about finding the source is very important - there is a reason it is humid, and unless this is solved, you will never solve the problem only band-aid it, which will cost more in the long run going against the "low-cost" part of this question.

The definition of low cost varies person-to-person.  Under $100 is low cost to me, but maybe not to you.  In any event, your best bet is a dehumidifier.  A quick search on Amazon found some small used ones for under $50.  You don't mention how large the area is so it's difficult to say if this will suffice, however it will most likely pull more water out faster than any plant or of silica packets will (I imagine you'd need thousands of these for even a small room).

You will likely require a humidifer that can be hooked up to a drain so you don't have to constantly empty it manually (hidden opportunity cost), which probably means a larger more expensive unit (still only a couple hundred dollars).

Of course you also need to consider electrical costs in this - at some point, it will be cheaper to properly solve the problem then to run the dehumidifier indefinitely.


How does low freon cause the compressor suction line to freeze up

Chlorodifluoromethane, also known as R22 refrigerant has a boiling point of -40°F at 0 psi.  As you increase the pressure of the refrigerant, the boiling point also increases. At 68.5 psi, the boiling point of R22 is 40°F.

In a normally functioning system, the refrigerant is sent into the evaporator at about 55-65 psi. Which means that the boiling point will be above the freezing temperature of water. The refrigerant absorbs heat from the air passing through the evaporator, boils, and flows on down the line at a temperature above the freezing point of water.  The refrigerant will likely be below the dew point, however, so there will be condensation on the line.

If the pressure in the system drops, the R22 might be entering the evaporator a bit lower than the typical pressure. In this case, the boiling point of the R22 will be below the freezing temperature of water. As the warm moist air moves over the evaporator, the moisture condenses and freezes on the coils. Ice will start to form at the beginning of the evaporator coils, and slowly creep along its length.

The ice will act as an insulator, so the refrigerant in the line will not be able to absorb the heat it needs to boil. This causes the refrigerant to boil off further along in the evaporator, which forms more ice further down the line.  This process continues all the way along the line, until the entire evaporator and suction line are covered in ice.

Once the refrigerant levels get too low, there's not enough refrigerant in the system to freeze the line. So eventually if the system has a leak, this behavior will stop and you'll simply get no cooling at all from the system.

NOTE: I could be completely wrong here. This is based on my limited knowledge of air conditioning systems. I am not an expert in thermodynamics, fluid dynamics, chemistry, or HVAC.


Can I install false LED light bulbs in a chandelier to reduce the total light output?

I'm not sure "hollowing out" makes any sense. Start by just not completely screwing in the bulbs you don't want lit (or leaving them out entirely). As bulbs burn out, you can switch to using the dead bulbs as your placeholders.


Where do I caulk on the outside of leaky windows?

[I] noticed there were gaps in the caulk between the board trim (see image below) and the window, so I re-caulked all the windows

Gaps between the board and trim are normal. The standard way this is done is you have your siding in layers

Siding board (OSB)
House wrap (plastic or tar paper)
Window tar flashing (bottom)
Window
Tar flashing (sides and top, hopefully nested just under the wrap)
Siding

Caulk can improve on this some, but properly installed windows like this should not need much, if any, caulk. Any water that gets behind your siding should be channeled down to the ground.

My bet is the window was installed incorrectly. A common area builders like to cheat on is wrapping the house wrap over the edges of the sill. That can create a pathway for water to penetrate the house. Caulk can't fix that either, since water is getting behind your siding.

Your best bet is to pull the siding off next to the window and make sure it's layered properly. Check the bottom corners if you can, since you typically need extra wrap there.


Flickering lights when appliances turn on

I agree that it is a good idea to start with the power company in this matter.

Places I have seen this problem start from is higher resistance connections for the mains in the panel box, and higher resistance connections in the meter box, on the mains.

Most of the time, in my limited experience, it has been the mains into the power box.  You will want electrical gloves and appropriate tools.

Some of the time it is connections in the meter box.  Most frequently the fingers which grip contacts on the meter.

If you are not comfortable hunting this down, I suggest getting someone who is and has the right tools.  But if you power company investigates first, you will at least have assurance that the power available to you is stable.


What is a 'Yoke' in NEC / electrician parlance?

The 'Yoke' is the structural frame of a receptacle or switch:

It is often metal, with holes for two captive mounting screws, and should almost certainly be grounded if a grounding conductor is present.

Examples:

A light switch in a single-gang junction box has a single yoke.
Receptacles (in North America) are often manufactured in a pair of two outlets on a single 'yoke', which can be installed into one single-gang junction box.


It certainly is acceptable to do a tile job in phases. There's no structural reason that tiles need to have their supporting mortar connected mechanically. The critical bond is to the substrate, not adjacent tiles or mortar. Large residential and commercial tile jobs are done in stages every day, and with no special procedures or materials.

One caveat might be the grouting. Ideally you'll complete grout work for a room in one step using grout from a single mix batch for visual consistency.


Somehow the wiring has gotten mixed up.  That receptacle is now being switched along with the bathroom light. The receptacle needs full time power ahead of this switch. However, this receptacle should not even be on the same circuit as these lights.  The receptacle should be on a 20-Amp circuit, 12-guage wire.  Bathroom lighting is usually on a 15-Amp circuit, 14-guage wire. Hair blow dryers, use in bath rooms require too much power for a 15-Amp circuit.  Hope this helps some. P.


Is my shower drain leaking under the slab?

It's possible the water is getting around your shower, possibly where the tile meets the tub or pan (if you have one), or behind the fixtures, or even around the door (if any).

I would check all of these and recaulk where appropriate before going in for wholesale destruction. Try splashing water by hand/bucket on areas you might suspect and see if that leads to leaks.

Or maybe you even have leaky plumbing in the wall. Do you have access to see in there?


Is there a type of bulb other than incandescent that works from -50 to +40C?

-50 degrees is unrealistic. Even mil-spec components won't work that cold.  It sounds like you just tossed that out there, so I'll assume you mean something more practical.

Fluorescent revisited

Your experience with fluorescent lights has been disappointing because you're using J random cheapie fluorescent lights, with no regard to their cold performance.

What you need is a programmed start ballast.  Those work a different way.  You know fluorescent tubes have preheat filaments (not unlike an incandescent filament) in the ends.  Those can "warm up" the tube so it takes a much lower strike voltage.  That also means less spallation on startup (the thing that leads to black rings on the tubes), which greatly increase tube life.   The colder the bulb is, the higher a voltage it needs to strike.

Instant-start ballasts, the stock-in-trade of cheapie fixtures, don't even bother using the preheats.  They just apply a very high strike voltage.  But even that is not high enough to strike an ice cold tube.
Rapid-start ballasts use the preheats, but after ~0.8 second they just slam on a high strike voltage to "force" it to start.
Programmed-start ballasts run the preheats for as long as it takes, which isn't real long with 700C filaments warming the gases in the tube!   Meanwhile they apply a very low strike voltage (only enough to strike a warmed tube) which is easy on the tube.

Programmed-start ballasts are readily available for $20-ish.  Since they use the filaments, they need 2-wire non-shorting tombstones, so if you currently have instant-start ballasts, you'll need to change the tombstones.

LED, if it's well-built

A competently built LED will also work just fine in the very cold, assuming the driver and LED can handle the temperature. It will come on instantly and reach full brightness quickly as the chip itself warms up.  Actually, it will run slightly more efficiently in the cold.

If you really must operate at -50, preheat the fixture

Add some resistive heaters on thermostats, so they preheat the fluorescent ballast, LED driver and LEDs proper.  They should shut off once the device they're heating reaches 32F.  You don't need to preheat the fluorescent tubes; the programmed-start sequence will do that.


How can I safely bury unused speaker wires in my wall?

There is an important difference between low-voltage (speaker, network, phone, alarm, etc.) and mains voltage ("mains" is more of an outside-the-USA term but is to make it clear as "120V" is "low" in certain categorizations).

A junction box containing mains voltage should never be plastered over. The problem is that if you don't know what is on the other end then it could become live someday and then you would have a potential hazard. If all wiring were single point-to-point then that would never be an issue, but if, for example, a cable from the main electric panel went to multiple unused locations, one of which was covered up, and the cable was disconnected (but not clearly marked) then you could have a future situation where someone toned out the wire to find the other end and reconnected it to the panel, only to find out the hard way that it was also connected to a hidden location. So you can't do this with mains wiring.

However, you can do this with low voltage (e.g., speaker) wiring. That being said, if you can find the other end and remove the wire altogether, that would be preferable. Or at least tag the other end so that a future user will know what is going on. "Living room back wall, removed plate/covered" would let some future user know what is going on and not leave them wondering "where could this wire possibly go". You might think the wires would never be useful again, and that is likely to be the case, but there are always exceptions.

Since you have two locations, this should be easy. Either they both go to one place (perhaps a patch panel in the basement) or they may actually connect to each other as a way to have a stereo system on one side of the room with speakers on the other side of the room. It should be simple enough to test with a multimeter, though with a toner it would be even easier.


It is made to glue to 3" or 4" drain pipe. I can't tell for sure but it looks like it glues over 3" or into 4".

You need to make sure the flange and glue are compatible with your pipe. If the pipe is white it is probably PVC, make sure you have the PVC flange and glue. If your pipe is black it is ABS, make sure you have...blah, blah, blah.

The flange may be set to rest on top of the finished floor or flush with the finished floor. It needs to be secured to the floor as well (note the screw holes). It might be easiest to glue it on and fasten it to the sub-floor with stainless screws, then tile up to it. The tile won't need to be perfect because the toilet should hide the immediate area.


Looking at the Installation Instructions, if you bought the 3-way version then you either miswired it, or tried to install it in place of one of the 4-way switches previously in the circuit.  The 3-way dimmer must be at one end or the other of the circuit.  (if you bought a single pole aka 2-way, then it'll never work).

This little pic shows the layout.  The solid red bars are for one position of each 4-way; the dashed bars are for the other. So long as this particular 3-way dimmer is in one of the 3-way locations, it always passes the "dimmed" voltage to its live leg.


Should loft insulation cover wall cavities?

Your insulation should cover the top plate of the wall.  This gives you a complete thermal envelope.  Covering the wall cavities will help keep cold air from coming up to the upper areas.


How can flood water come in through a toilet?

The trap on a toilet (or any plumbing fixture) prevents sewer gas from escaping. It's a very low-pressure thing, consisting solely of a small amount of standing water filling a low spot in the drain. Any force capable of moving a little water can overcome it, including air vacuum if it's not properly vented.

In the case of this flooding phenomenon, there must be a break in the city sewer line somewhere, and water standing above it. This obviously creates pressure that will escape at any point below its surface level.