Ok to use Denatured Alcohol to clean wood before applying oil-based primer?

Denatured alcohol will be fine to use it will dry quickly and will be fine for any type of paint once dried.


Can I install two independent gfci outlets in one double-gang box?

Take the incoming hot (black) and wirenut it to black pigtails going to the brass LINE HOT screws on each GFCI.  Take the incoming neutral (white) and wirenut it to white pigtails going to the silver LINE NEUTRAL screws on each GFCI.  Take all the grounds and wirenut them to each other and to bare pigtails to the green ground screws on each GFCI -- if you're in metal conduit with metal boxes, simply get self-grounding GFCIs instead.

With a single 12-2 and two yokes, you'll be nowhere near box fill for a double gang box, by the way.


It all needs to be scraped out, the surface needs to be scrubbed clean and then rinsed and left to dry completely.
Then (and only then) should new caulk be applied.
As for learning, internet videos have many examples of how to do it properly but there is some skill gained by experience. Each application method (squeeze tube vs. caulking gun) also involves slightly different skill-set and both have advantages and disadvantages.
I recommend that you use silicone (for durability, adhesion, and water-resistance); that you use a squeeze tube applicator (easier control for novice); and that you have mineral spirits handy in a small bucket along with several sacrificial rags. Use a finger dipped in mineral spirits to carefully smooth the caulk after application, and use the rags to clean any "oops" and to clean up any smeared caulk that got anywhere you didn't want it to be.
Even if it's not perfect in the end, it will look better and be more water-protective than the old crap that is there now... and you will learn a bit and your next caulk job will be easier.


Running 120V is right out
First, your instincts about not running 120V mains power are correct.  For instance, extension cords and AC power cords are made out of a material called cordage.  It's made to flex and handle underfoot abuse, but it's illegal to use it as a substitute for the permanent wiring of a building.  So even if you could snake the power cord through voids in the cabinet, it's illegal to do so.
In order to bring 120V up there, you would need to search for a damage-resistant wiring method such as armored cable, EMT, Wiremold or FMC that would fit in the space available. Then you'd need to put an extension on an existing outlet (e.g. switch or sometimes, lamp) to allow you to side-exit that box with the armored cable or conduit. Then bring that into a surface mount junction box up there.  If this sounds like a bugbear of a job... yeah, you might as well install fish Romex into the walls at that point.
Low voltage rules are much gentler.  Which voltage doesn't matter.
Which voltage below about 30V, that is.
So the "perilous journey" should be made with low voltage wiring not with 120V AC wiring.  So the easier and "more legit" way to handle this would be to let the light's power block make 19V.
Essentially, extend the low-voltage side of the cord.  If you need to buy inline  barrel connector sockets and plugs, Radio Shack Mouser Electronics or Digi-key should be able to provide.


Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty is a great product. You can mix it as thick as you like using water. It sticks well, but can still be formed. Dries super hard relatively quick. Easy clean up and can be sanded and painted. The best part is that it doesn't shrink.


above ground pool on slightly sloped driveway

You won't be able to (economically) build a platform to set the pool on -- water weighs a lot! Supposing that pool is round and 20 feet diameter, when filled to 50" depth it would contain about 9800 gallons and weigh almost 82000 pounds. A truckload of sand leveled on top of the driveway is probably the only way you'd make a "platform" to support this weight.

Figure out just how out-of-level your driveway actually is by constructing a water level. You'll need a garden hose and a bucket. Using the hose, fill the bucket with water. When it is full, keeping the hose end immersed in the water at all times, disconnect the hose from the faucet and carry the bucket to the high end of the driveway. Carry the disconnected end of the hose to the low end of the driveway. Slowly move that end of the hose vertically, up and down until you see the water inside rise up to the mouth of the hose without spilling over. Finally, measure the height of the water in the bucket (above the driveway surface) and the height of the water in the mouth of the hose. The difference in these two figures is the difference in elevation across the driveway.

If the slope is only a few inches you can probably just set up the pool out of level and it'll be fine. One side of the pool just won't be as deep as the other. I'm not sure how steep is too steep, but I can tell you that I set up my own above ground pool maybe 2 inches out of level and everything worked out fine.

One other thing.. I don't mean to be a wet blanket, but consider safety. You don't want neighbor kids coming along, sneaking into the pool, and having an accident (drowning, for example). You may be taking a big risk in erecting a pool outside of a fenced yard.


You stated that your buffet is French Polished. French polishing is the technique of buffing in shellac mixed with alcohol and oil to a high gloss finish in many thin coats. If you attempt to sand down the differences in the slat matches, you will be in a situation to completely refinish the piece.  French polish can be easily touched up with a cloth pad and a mix of above ingredients, but refinishing from scratch using the French polish method is an art form and extremely time consuming. There is no way I know to even out the displacement of the planks without some precise sanding.   Good luck.


Grounding Requirements for same structure subpanel

Your ground path is through the EMT conduit. It needs a proper connection to the main panel ground and to the sub panel ground. You could use grounding bushings, but standard EMT connectors meet code.

The “connections” to the concrete reinforcing are not part of a normal grounding or bonding approach. This kind of bond is only used at the service entrance and uses more substantial wire.

One concern with your installation is that EMT conduit can corrode in buried or embedded installations. I have seen conduit rusted completely away after four or five decades of service. This can result in high ground impedance and non-tripping breakers. If you have this problem you should run a new feeder with a proper ground connection. Do not drive a separate ground rod at the subpanel. The ground connection belongs at the service to avoid ground loops and to ensure over current protective devices work properly.


Header question for newly created exterior basement door

When you make a window or door opening, you will remove one or more studs in the door opening in the wall.  The header has to carry the load that was previously carried by the studs you remove, transferring it to the king studs on either side of the door.

Since the door is stacked, aligned under a window above, the header for the window opening has already transferred  the load above the window to the studs on the sides;  the stud removed for the door probably wasn't carrying much load.  It was carrying the weight of the window and the cripple wall below the window, which isn't much.  Depending on the direction the floor joists, run, that stud was also the supporting the floor joists resting on the top plate above the stud.

I'd say if you have

A doubled top plate above  the door is in
Joists not supported by the wall with the door
Just one stud removed for door opening

Then it's not likely you'll see any problem there. But you'd normally put something there anyway, if only for a nailing surface for the trim etc., and to avoid debates about it.

In any event, I don't see how failing to install the header would lead to cracks under the door.  If the header is missing, the wall above the door opening may sag, the floor above the door opening may sag, but no additional load winds up on the floor around the door opening.  The door frame pretty much floats between the king studs.  If it was bearing any weight, it would probably deform and the door wouldn't open or shut properly.


Does electrical conduit in a cinderblock wall need to be covered before being plastered over?

NM can be in the hollow cavity’s of block walls but not embedded in a cutout.
When run in block walls, if exiting the wall conduit would be needed on the outside unless a surface covering is provided (a furring strip on either side with 1/2” plywood or Sheetrock) is another way to do it. Your actual work might provide more detail.


How to hide fasteners on a horizontal wood fence?

Take a look at the category known as 'hidden deck fasteners'. It's typically a biscuit slot with a metal or plastic fastener that keys into the slot and then attaches to a post. (Or in the case of a deck, the joist.)

Top tip if you want to save time and wear on the biscuit joiner: have your lumber supplier groove both sides of your planks full length.


Is it ok that the cable for my dryer circuit is suspended from the ceiling?

No, it's not.
It needs to be protected in conduit or a covered stud wall at least 8' up as measured from the floor. And, like others have said, it needs to be secured.


Does my ceiling fan's down rod need extra support?

Look in the parts for your fan and see what is the longest pipe that comes with the fan. You will probably find two pipes, but even the longer would be much shorter than 24".

Go online or to a "fan store" and get a 24" pipe specifically made for your fan. It will be installed in place of the shorter pipe that comes with the fan and will come painted to match your fan.

How tall is your ceiling? Be prepared to give that measurement to at the fan store and they might advise you to get a different length pipe--either shorter or longer than 24". As a rough guide I would say that a 24" support rod would be about right for a 10' ceiling, depending on how far down your light kit projects and what you preference is.

The wires that come on the fan are much longer than needed for short pipes and are probably long enough for a 24" pipe without having to add extra wire, but you will have to see what the instructions say.

EDIT

The modern cheaper fans (e.g., Hunter) can be installed at the location of a box which formerly held only a light fixture if there is a ceiling joist next to the ceiling box. The fan installation kit has a bracket with long screws which go into the ceiling joist which a box is nailed to.

But if the joist is not adjacent to the ceiling box, then the box may well be a light duty one which is on a light metal bar which would not support any fan. In that case the existing box and bar would have to be removed through the existing hole and a fan box with bar installed (through the existing hole).

EDIT2

For example see Down rods for Hunter fans

EDIT3

Note that if you need to substitute a fan support bar for the existing one, you need one which is designed for retrofit through the existing hole. There are some fan support bars which will only work if there is no drywall in place. These are much cheaper but they cannot be inserted through an existing 3.5" or 4" hole in ceiling drywall whereas the retrofit ones can be.

EDIT4

In case of failure of the primary fan suspension safety cables will provide a backup. Safety cables may be required in seismic zones, and in certain applications such as schools, daycare facilities, nursing homes, etc.
Panasonic info on safety in fan installations

None of the fans I have ever installed, or had installed for me, has a safety cable.


What type of aluminium to use for decorative trim?

1/2" by 1/2" by X (long) aluminum angle with an eased outside edge if you can find it, and countersunk by you or held in with adhesive.

If it's going to look exactly like that picture, you cannot use MDF there.

  ... combustible materials shall not be in contact with the masonry or concrete walls less than 12 inches (305 mm)from the inside surface of the nearest firebox lining. –What is a fireplace facing and what is it used for?

E.g., (even in this picture they're cutting corners)

"The decorative trim will not be particularly close to the fire." - don't care. The trim needs to be a certain distance away from the opening.

Keep combustibles (drywall, MDF, etc.) one foot from the opening in every direction. For applicable exceptions, see the linked question.

See also, How much clearance is needed on a gas fireplace?


Need to renovate kitchen in house, where to start?

There are a lot of variations between houses and kitchens. For example, gas and water plumbing can be trivial (if open space underneath or behind the kitchen) or very hard (some houses in my neighborhood have the original electric kitchen on a concrete slab so getting gas into the kitchen - even though they have gas heat & hot water - is very expensive). You may have a lot of electrical work to be done that was grandfathered in but now that you are renovating would have to be replaced (this is very common in the USA), etc.

Unless you are in a "no way I could possibly hire a professional to do the work" mode (in which case I think it would be dishonest to bring in a professional to do a free estimate), I would consider finding a construction company that does this type of work and see if they can either:

Give you a free rough estimate (i.e., not draw up plans, but take a look and give you a rough idea of 'x' for the plumbing, 'y' - 'z' for cabinets (will vary depending on style and quality), etc.
Do a formal assessment, including drawing up some plans, for an agreed price for a few hours of work.

One other possibility (I did this myself) is to go to a big-box store (Home Depot or Lowes in my area) and have the kitchen department draw up some plans. They will generally do that with no obligation, with the understanding that you will likely buy at least some of the project materials from that store. If you go this route, measure everything first: Dimensions of existing cabinets, location (old & new) of sinks, stove, etc., location of walls, etc.

As far as "flat-pack". That depends on what is available. When I renovated my kitchen (~ 19 years ago), the local Home Depot stocked a full flat-pack brand (Mills Pride) and I was able to get almost everything ready-to-assemble at a very good price. I only had to build two cabinets from scratch (and I was able to get materials to match the flat-pack cabinets). But now they don't stock it any more, so the same project would be a lot harder. So the specifics will really vary a lot depending on what is locally available in your area, your budget and other factors.


Stud sensor finds current on large wall area

How do stud sensors actually sense current,

Basic stud sensors are designed to detect the edges of wooden studs, they are not designed to detect live electric wiring in the wall. Electronic stud detectors are sensing changes in the dielectric constant of the wall.

Some stud sensors also incorporate a separate type of detector for detecting live electrical wiring.

These electricity detectors don't sense current at all. What they sense is voltage alternating at 50 or 60 cycles a second. There are separate devices for sensing current. This distinction is important because an alternating voltage of 110 (or 230) volts is detectable (and potentially dangerous) even if there is currently no detectable current.

non-contact voltage (NCV) detectors generally sense alternating voltage (an alternating electric field) using capacitive coupling. Which means they are very dependent on operating conditions.

Fluke have a description that you may find helpful.

  and should I be concerned?

No, false or non-localised detection is a common problem with this type of detector. You may be able to get a more useful indication by following the calibration instructions for the device, by adjusting the sensitivity control (where present), by being careful where you place your free hand or by adjusting the distance of the device from the surface of the wall.

See also

When doing electrical work, what do I use to check wires are safe?
Electric shock - was I stupid, unlucky, or a combination of both?
Wikipedia - Test Light


How to remove one step from a three step ladder?

Note the slots cut in the holes at which the supporting rods attach. The rods have a matching tang. It seems likely that you can fold the ladder in such a manner to allow the tang on the rod to align with the slot on the step which should then allow the rod to slip out..

It may be necessary to remove the other step to accomplish this, or you may be able to remove the desired step straight away.

Detail is missing for the main support rod.


Will adding a cool air return in the basement help with summer AC power usage?

Furnace installers and/or home owners will put a registers in the duct work to provide some heat or A/C to that area. The number of these supply and return registers is determined by the typical use and desired temperature of this area. I recommend that all basements should have at least 2 supply registers and 1 return register in the basement/equipment area just to keep that area slightly warm or cool and the air fresh. If you are going to finish that area to be used as living space, then more supply and returns will be needed. Also you may want to close the supply registers in the summer when using the A/C since cold air is heavy and will move to the lowest level in the house. Leave the returns (mounted at the floor level) open to circulate that air all the time.


How to tell if breaker box can handle another tandem breaker?

Your box predates the UL requirements for a feature known as Circuit Total Limitation (CTL).  This feature restricts where double-stuff/tandem breakers can be installed in the panel to prevent it from exceeding its designed circuit capacity, which was restricted to a maximum of 42 circuits by the NEC (i.e. nobody could make a panelboard for more than 42 circuits).  However, the 2008 NEC lifted the 42 circuit restriction on panelboards.

Practically speaking, I would go ahead and install the new double-stuff/tandem breaker provided that there is sufficient remaining wiring space in the panelboard gutters to accommodate the extra wire.  You'll need a QO2020 (not a QOT2020, which won't fit) breaker for this.


What are the consequences to laying continuous floating floor without using transitioning pieces?

The problem is expansion of the floating floor from seasonal moisture changes**. Transitions provide expansion joints. If you have excessively long continuous flooring, without large expansion joints at the ends, then when it gets humid your floor will expand, not be able to push outwards at the ends, so will push upwards in the middle instead.

** My thanks to DA01 for his comment on this. I'd always assumed it was thermal expansion.


If I use a waterproof membrane, do I have to use tile?

You cannot use redgard or aqua defense as the final coat.  (says this in their product info)  Over time standing on them, dropping things or whatever would cause weak points or holes.  They are meant to have some type of hard surface on top of them for protection - stone, tile, plastic, and so on.

Paint would not help at all.  Any type of paint that got wet would eventually lose binding to the material.  Also paint wouldn't help with the above issues.


The blower fan should not be running continuously. You must get that repaired. Is the switch on the thermostat set to auto or to run? The thermostat can be incorrected wired in a way that keeps the blower fan on continuously.

The filter below the fan may be too restrictive or the ducting leading to the filter is constricted. Put in a new filter of the proper type. Some filters are too restrictive for a given furnace.

But note that these fans must have a certain load on them supplied by suction on the back side and/or high pressure on the outlet side from the combined resistance of the heat exchanger, the evaporator coil, and the ducting. If they are run without sufficient load, the motor will over-speed and burn out.

The quieting when you open the access panel might be due to the fan speeding up and getting out of a resonance that is causing vibration. Also the bearings on the fan motor might be bad or need lubrication. Some of these fan motors used to  have bearings which required oiling through channels but most nowadays are permanently lubricated.


Yes, put some panels or diagonal  bracing behind those end shelves.
eg: bottom of left rear leg to top of left front leg, and the same on the right.


You will need to take off all the glue if you want a good finish.

The paint will lift the glue, but unevenly, and mix with the paint. This will cause the paint to clump and not cover properly and all in all it will look terrible.

I know because I did this in the first house I owned and had to wash the walls of the one room where I tried this several times to get as much glue off as possible. I don't think I got it completely off and you could still tell.

If you just want to paint the room, you would be better off hanging lining paper and then painting that. This has the added advantage (especially if you use 1000gsm paper) of covering any imperfections in the wall.


Personally, I'd cut the downspout back so it is even (level with the ground), with about an inch of pipe hanging down (or as much as can be saved). Get another piece of pipe, in which the inside diameter is the same as the outside diameter of the original downspout. This will be used to replace the piece you just cut off. Before you affix your new pipe to the old, you'll need to put something on what is left of old pipe to save it from deteriorating further. I'd use a rust converter, something like POR-15. Use it liberally on the inside and the outside of the pipe ... wherever you see deterioration. If the new pipe is a snug fit on the old pipe, you can actually use the POR-15 to bond the two pieces of metal together. You'll also want to put some type of screen up top to prevent the debris from getting stuck down in the pipe again, or you'll run into the same issue. You'll need to get some type of reducer which will allow you to transition from the new piece of pipe to the crimped piping which is there now.

This would be the "easy" fix, if you will. If the deterioration is too bad, you'll need to consider a complete replacement of the gutter system. This would cost some serious money, but would bet you are going to have to do it sooner or later anyway. Check any other downspout to ensure the same thing isn't happening there. Use the POR-15 to prolong your pocketbook agony for as long as possible.


The assembly instructions state:

  Recommended surfaces for installation include cement or treated wood deck style surfaces.

So it should be installed on a level platform of some kind that will support the weight of the shed and its contents.

It wouldn't be a good idea just to use level ground as you'll have problems with moisture, rodents etc (as Eric Petroelje points out in his comment). You may well also find that the shed will sink unevenly into the ground making it difficult, if not impossible to use.


The "article" you linked to is written by the manufacturer of STA-BIL, a brand of fuel stabilizer. So I would take the entire thing with an enormous grain of salt.

I don't see how you can go wrong following the advice of the lawn mower manufactorer. Personally for my small engines I switch to stabilized fuel sometime in the fall so that it works its way through all the hoses and into the engine, then when I'm done for the year I run it dry. That way virtually all the fuel is gone and whatever is left should have stabilizer in it.


I don’t know Florida but in Oregon you would , I believe if your water heater Is elevated your dryer would be covered by the same requirements because of possible flammable fumes from the garage, when the gas burner starts up. I recently raised my washer and dryer (both front loaders) 13-14” off the ground because of washer issues and my wife loves the height.
I would raise it even if not code after doing it.


convert 220v range outlet to 110v standard

Yes.  Due to the wire size you will likely need to pig tail (with appropriately sized wire nuts in both locations) to fit into the new breaker (20 amp) and outlet. Since you'll be removing a 2 pole breaker and replacing it with a single pole breaker, you'll have an exposed slot in your cover plate on the panel. Some ppl around here suggest putting in a "spare" breaker to fill the hole, but you can also buy an insert to "plug the slot".
EDIT:  Just saw "NoSparksPlease" comment and agree.  Let's get a peek at the boxes before we go too hog wild here.


How can I tell if a contractor is trying to scam me by charging more after starting a job?

First, find out what the law is in your jurisdiction concerning hidden wires.  It may be that removal is not required. If removal is required, or if you want to have it done for safety reasons, option A is to call another contractor or handyman service and ask for a quote.  If the job can be done cheaper by someone else, it is ok to bring that person in for that purpose.

If you want the present contractor to do the job, option B is to say "I'll pay $300 after we sign a contract change document, and if you want to quit rather than do the job for my price, I can't stop you."

Option C is to pay the $600 provided that a contract change document is signed.  I wouldn't choose this option without knowing that the removal is legally required.

You can find out whether removal is required by law in several ways.  First, ask your contractor to tell you what law requires it, then look it up.  Or you can ask any other licensed contractor.  Or you can visit the county engineer (or whatever that department is called where you live) and ask.  Another good question for the engineering department would be whether it would be acceptable to leave the wire where it is if both ends are properly terminated.


Resilient Channel and Drywall Orientation

Perpendicular.

I found this

"Resilient channel should be installed on Cathedral Ceilings (single or double angled ceiling) with the center of the face of the channel 6 inches from the top to permit a floating angle wallboard installation. Resilient channel must be installed with mounting flange down."

at the following website.

https://www.wconline.com/articles/89218-preventing-ceiling-cracking-with-resilient-channels

And of coarse much info is available on YouTube such as this YouTube vid.


What is the recommended number of teeth for making finish cuts with a miter saw?

The difference between a 10" 60T and 80T saw blade is only slightly noticeable.  In practice, chip out with either isn't a huge concern, provided you go slow.  An 80T blade is naturally going to slow you down more, so that may be useful if your tendency is to yank the radial arm down and go.

Another consideration is the end grain of the piece, some trees are just flakier than others, in that case an 80T is a safer bet.

Teeth aren't the whole story.  If you throw a crosscut table blade on a miter saw it might have a tendency to feed faster than you want. If you get a miter blade then there's not a ton of difference. The miter saw blade teeth are back angled a bit to avoid pulling the arm in on you.

So the safe bet is the 80T miter blade, but I'd be surprised if a 60T gave you any trouble.


Basement partition wall sole plate - do I need sill plate gasket?

The primary function of the sill plate gasket is to keep undesirable stuff out, bugs, dust/dirt, outside air, etc., while at the same time keeping desirable stuff in, such as heated or cooled air.
While it can, and often is, used on interior walls in slab construction, it's generally optional there unless your local building codes require it.  You may want to check your local AHJ.


Can I run conduit in an open ceiling on top of the bottom part of the rafters in a commercial building?

You can run most any rigid, PVC and or EMT conduit as this is a dry location it will need to be secured within 3' of the box and depending on size anchored to the rafter every 10' feet. I just double checked the support for PVC in the smaller size is 3', I don't use PVC very often but it is very easy to install. Code may require this to be done by an electrician because it is commercial. A home owner can do all there own work but when it goes industrial or commercial depending on local code it may require a licensed electrician.


It's going to depend on the type of framing used. Balloon and platform framing are the two common methods.

Platform
If you're dealing with platform framing, you're going to have to drill through quite a bit to go between floors.  First you'll hit the bottom plate of the upper wall, followed by the decking (subfloor). Next you'll hit a double top plate, which once you're through you'll be in the lower wall.  Since it's a common wall, you'll also likely have to deal with blocking and insulation.
Balloon
If it's a balloon framed structure, you're lucky. You'll likely only encounter blocking, bracing, and insulation. However, these elements are a bit less predictable, so you'll have to take things as they come.
Fireblocking & Draftstopping
Any time you create a passageway for fire or gases to pass between floors, you'll have to provide adequate fireblocking and/or draftstopping. This could be as minimal as some fire resistant spray foam, but you'll have to check with your local government to determine what's required.


How to prevent router from grabbing board when doing face moulding?

Router bits have to be carefully checked against the type of cut being created. For the general cut there is a correct feed direction and there is an incorrect direction. For some bits used in a certain way there is no ideal cut direction.

The general principal is that the work piece should be fed into the router bit so that the incoming wood is pushing against the direction of bit rotation. If you feed the wood into the bit in the same direction as the rotation of the bit the cutting edges will most assuredly grab into the wood and try to pull it along.

The picture below shows the concept for the proper direction doing an "outside" cut on the wood piece when looking down from the top of your router table.

If you are trying to do some other type of cut then you should post some pictures so we can make additional suggestions.


How can I move a toilet sewer drain in a concrete floor?

If its on a solid slab you're looking at a jackhammer and some new fittings. If your fittings are cast iron you'll need to be especially careful because its brittle and any concrete removing action around it could cause it to crack. Once exposed you'll be able to see your options depending on which direction the down elbow runs.


Is this the source of my hot tub leak, or just a symptom?

I'm a bit confused how did you get to the conclusion that crack could appear after a bubble? I’m not saying you are wrong but not sure how you have concluded this. Anyway unless there are some other cracks this is 99% sure the reason why your tub is leaking. And if there is some more cracks or problems this is one of them for sure.


How do I share the same cold water pipe for both my dishwater and washing machine?

You could make a manifold by adding a T to the copper and 2 90's so they both come out where you would like It looks like there is enough room to do this.


Renovating interior stone basement walls

You can do it. Certainly.

There was a recent episode on this for "this old house". They basically suggested cleaning out the loose fill and then replacing the old mortar with fresh mortar. It looked tedious more than anything else - but doable by a homeowner. I've re-mortared and chinked stone foundations. It's a surprisingly high maintenance experience compared to poured walls.

The good news about stone foundations is that with proper bracing, you can fix up almost anything well enough to sell it to someone else who enjoys huffing dust, cobwebs, squirrel mummies and Radon Gas. But for the most part, it's like fight club - we just don't talk about it.

With improper bracing, you can experience the joy of being crushed to death, or lose an eye due to the magic of newtonian physics while you learn about shear loads and amateur metallurgy using those hydraulic jacks you bought at Harbour Freight. It's very educational.

A well built stone wall can always be repaired with less trouble than concrete foundations. The mortar and chinking is mostly for aesthetics, anyway.

Sealing the walls is fine, as long as you do it on the outside first, and then and only then do the inside. You'll have to dig down to the foundation to do this, and that bracing is an issue on the outside as well.

Now the part you won't like. I did this in high school for a relative who had a nearly 200 year old house with a sandstone & rock foundation, in a damp (flood plain) area. It looked great, but ultimately it was wasted effort. Exposed rock and mortar foundations will always breath, sweat and disappoint anyone expecting a modern basement experience. You can apply gallons of sealer, but it will simply create areas where it perforates.

These foundations were designed to keep out animals, hold up your house so it doesn't rot all that quickly and very little else.

They will always be home to spiders. You can seal it with gunnite or epoxy and it will still allow infiltration. It might look OK, in that "I love Halloween" fashion so popular with the gothic/serial killer/lonely artist set, but it will never be a comfortable space.

You might build a second wall that can be plumbed, framed and sheet rocked, but it won't solve much over the long run, even with substantial vapor barriers and ducting. The walls will still slowly shift, moisture will come and go, and you'll never be happy with the low ceilings.

So in summary: You can redo the walls. You can seal them. You can even box them in and add ducting, insulation, AC and lighting. It's still going to be a basement that weeps moisture due to temp and pressure differentials.


What kind of wiring/service are these wires for and how do I test them to find out?

They're almost certainly phone cables. Whether they're live or not is unclear from my chair. You can disconnect them one at a time and verify that you still have service.

Phone and cable TV companies don't come back and remove wiring when service is cancelled. I've resorted to coiling up cables and hanging them on the pole in the alley, and when they weren't removed after several months I cut it off at head height and threw it away.


The rafters form a plenum that runs over living space AND extends over the walls to the outside, outside the thermal envelope?  If so, I imagine that you are trying to extend the thermal break that the wall creates through this plenum?  If so, you can roll up fiberglass insulation, place in a plastic bag, then push into place right above the wall, where the rafters hang over to the outside.  Follow up with expanding foam to stop air flow.  I did this in my cape code with great results.

Something to be aware of though: Do you have soffit vents?  If so, air is supposed to be able to be pulled from these vents as air escapes from the attic ridge or gable vents.  In that case, you would need to preserve this air flow, which can be tough.  Some place small PVC pipes through this plenum, from the soffit area to the main attic above.  The trick it to move that air, while still maintaining good R-value on the interior ceiling.  PVC pipes usually require pulling off the fascia to push through, so I would insulate all the rafter bays but for one or two to allow air flow to the main attic.

Something I have learned dealing with an older house is that you can drastically improve things, without having to make them perfect.  I have lowered my electric bill from $230 to $160 per month in the last 7 years.


sent them some pictures over text... they said this is 99% asbestos...

Immediately throw away the phone number and email address of this company because what they told you is poppycock. Without a lab analysis nobody can say whether or not that plaster contains asbestos, and certainly not what percent/volume or weight.
I have met insulation specialists, who work with various legacy materials on a daily basis, who have correctly predicted materials that were ACM (asbestos containing materials) but they will never wager on it and they certainly can't analyze content percentage by sight/feel/touch/smell/taste... it requires lab analysis.
While I agree with a comment that advised minimizing exposure, I disagree with a comparison to radiation. Asbestos is never acutely hazardous (as some types of radiation exposure are), but rather a chronic issue. In fact, the chief concern with asbestos is with repeated occupational exposure.


What are these "GENTEX" things on my walls?

It is the Gentex GX90 Remote Audible Signal which can be used as a fire alarm.

It probably is a fire alarm because I could only find references that mention use as a fire alarm, but I presume it could be used for something else.  I say that because they also offer a "Fire Alarm Red" color which would imply the off-white version could be used for something other than a fire alarm, e.g. tornado siren.


200 AMP Service - Feeding 3 Sub-Panels - Wire Size and Set Up Help Needed

Stop.  You're making the classic novice mistake.

I'm referring to sizing the subpanels.

Ever bought tires? They come in different speed ratings.  Have you ever gone "My truck has never gone faster than 85 mph, therefore I can't use an HR rated tire"?  Of course not.  The fact that it's good for 112 mph, you see that as safety margin.  Am I right?

Well, panels work exactly the same way.  Even if you never plan to pull more than 60A, a 100A panel is better, and a 200A panel is better still.

Remember. The size of the subpanel does not decide the load. That's decided by the feed breaker in the main panel.  The "main breaker" in the subpanel is nothing but a disconnect switch.

  Your actual main panel has a 60A breaker feeding a 2-2-2-4.  This goes to a 200A subpanel.  Legit?  YES.  The subpanel has its own "main" breaker of 200A.  Legit? YES.  That breaker is nothing but a local disconnect switch. What is the rating of the subpanel? 60A. Because that's decided by the feed breaker.  Is the panel running at redline?  No, not nearly, it's well in its safety zone. And that's good, because it's outdoors.

Some people want the subpanel's local main breaker to be same size as the feed breaker.  Their dream is that this local breaker will trip first, and save them a walk.  Nope! That trick never works! But I'll come back to that.

And don't be chintzing out on panels anyway.

This one person thought the $20 6-space panel was a great bargain.  #1 guess what, you need a main disconnect. Boom 2 spaces gone that the person did not expect to lose.  Just for one each 120V and 240V utility sockets, the person now has 1 space left.  They wanted a hot tub, well that takes 2 spaces, and they're out of space.  Can't use double-stuffs because 2020 NEC pretty much outlaws them. That person is painted into a corner and must now install an 8-space, and will need to go 12-space for the next thing.  How many times are you going to replace panels?

I put the person into a 24-space panel with a main breaker and with $20 worth of bonus breakers, for $70.  So $30 more (net) and a vastly superior panel with plenty of expansion room.  $30?  That's a takeout pizza.

Spaces are cheap.  Redoing work is expensive.  Everytime you change a panel you risk damaging wire - and then you're really in trouble.

If it was hundreds of dollars of wire, sure.  But c'mon. A pizza?  Skip it and enjoy an installation with expansion room. You'll thank yourself later.

If I were paying for the panels - and I do pay for most of the panels I install - I would use a 12-space main-lug at the remote sites and a 30-space at the shop.  Space not circuit... circuits mean nothing anymore.

The wire size

The 2-2-2-4 Al is a perfectly fine wire size for the runs you have "60A".  Feel free to breaker those at 80A at the main, since that is allowed on 2-2-2-4 of any length (unless the length carries it into Canada, then no).  "Nanny breakers" (downbreakering to a 60A to protect yourself from "voltage drop" ooga-booga) are not required in the USA or El NEC countries.

For the 100A run, you can't breaker the 2-2-2-4 at 100A, I'm sorry.  You need to use at least #1 aluminum.  Now, if you actually needed 100A, you'd be required to breaker for 125% of that, or 125A obviously.  But let's say you actually need 80A, so you breaker for 100A.

Never calculate voltage drop on breaker trip.  Either calculate it on expected load, or on 80% of breaker trip since that is the max you're allowed to plan to load.   So that means we're calculating your workshop run at 80A.

#1 wire gives 4.44% drop at 80A
1/0 wire gives 3.82% drop
2/0 wire gives 2.98% drop

So pick your poison.

You do need a "main breaker" (well, disconnect switch) at EACH subpanel

"6-space guy" got blindsided by needing a "main" breaker as a disconnect switch.  In a 6-space panel, "main breakers" are placed in regular breaker positions and backfeed.  Suddenly 2 of 6 spaces are gone - whoops!

However, you can use that same backfeeding trick (hopefully with a larger panel, say a 12-space) -- fit a plain common breaker at the top left, label it "Main Disconnect", apply a Tie-Down Kit, and feed the panel there.

This means you're using the same kind of branch circuit breaker that is supplying the panel at the other end.  So that makes "trips locally first" at least a 50/50 proposition.  (if the other one always trips first, swap them; that's just manufacturing tolerances.)  You can help that even further by making the local breaker smaller.  Say you use an 80A feed breaker at the main panel, and a 60A or even 30A "main breaker" in the sub.  It's a "nanny breaker", sure, but it's helping you save a long walk.


Can I add outlets using #14 wire on a circuit with #12 wire and a 60 amp breaker?

Breakers have to protect the wiring. Normally that means:

14 AWG wire must be on 15A breakers (or smaller, but that's the normal size in the US)
12 AWG wire must be on 20A breakers (or smaller)

If you put 14 AWG or 12 AWG wire on a 60A breaker then you run the risk of an overload of the wire - e.g., 40A - having no chance of tripping the breaker before the wires overheat and your house burns down.

The minimal fix is to replace the 60A breaker with a 15A breaker. But that will severely limit your power usage. The better fix is to split the circuits onto multiple 15A (for circuits that include at least some 14 AWG wire) or 20A (for circuits that only have 12 AWG wire) breakers. If you have space in your panel then that's easy. But if you don't have space - which may be why everything was combined onto one 60A breaker in the first place, then the long-term solution is likely a new main panel. But the short-term solution may be to use the 60A breaker to feed a new subpanel. The subpanel can then split up the circuits among several 15A and/or 20A breakers. Depending on the condition of the main panel, it may make sense to install a panel that is large enough to become a new main panel. You can then move additional circuits from the main panel to the subpanel until everything is transferred and then move the service feed to the new panel, toss the original panel and bond neutral to ground in the new main panel (as a subpanel you would not bond neutral to ground).


Dishwasher mid-cycle manual fill - possible?

Most dishwashers have a "cancel" option to end the current cycle and start over. Consult the manual, perhaps? Unfortunately what I've been able to find for "online" manuals for this model appear to be from very sketchy sites that don't load, perhaps you have a paper version that's 12 years old?

If no luck there:

Try turning the circuit breaker feeding it off for a minute or more.


How would you attach an interior wooden wall to a metal building?

I would not choose the path in your first photo unless you verified with the company that engineered the steel building that the additional dead load from the wood framing, drywall and what ever you might use the wall to support is adequate.  I would think it was not engineered for the load and could cause problems later.

So, second photo, the wall dead load is supported by the floor.  Hopefully the slab is not really thin and poorly reinforced.  In that photo from the height of the building, I am guessing the floor was reinforced poured with the intent for light-industrial taking place in there.   If you are doing free standing walls, avoid powder actuated fasteners, they have very poor pull-out resistance.  Use a wedge anchor or a sleeve anchor.

To fasten the walls to the steel posts of the metal building use a #3 point, washer hex head, self-drilling screws. You can find them at Fastenal.  Space them 1-1/4" from the stud edges and in an alternating pattern every 15"-18".  I personally also like to use extra-thick fender washers, sometimes called heavy washers to increase the pull-through resistance.  A premium poly-urethane construction adhesive would increase the holding power considerably.

I would insulate the steel wall first with rigid foam insulation panels to fill the depth.  I would then use fiberglass batt in the studs. If this is commercial or industrial, your electrical might be required to be in conduit or MC cable, Codes are not the same everywhere. MC can be run though holes board in the studs similar to NM cable.


What are these connectors on UK plug socket internal wiring?

These are a type of splice that in your case was a safe way to terminate the wire in the bottom photo. In my area they are referred by there brand name Wago. I only use these types of splices or connectors in fluorescent fixtures but they are or can be used as they are a listed connector. Some contractors use them because they are quick to install and take up very little room in the box. I have had to replace many outlets and switches that have this same kind of connection called back stabs so I usually cut them off. If your wire is on the short side they can be crushed to release & save the wire.


What can I do about pocket doors that are blocked by floor tiles?

That looks tight.

First effort would be to get the adjusters into reach and see if the door can be raised sufficiently.  From the looks of things, that isn't going to be enough.

You could futz around and replace the roller mechanism with a more compact one to gain a little height, but I have found it difficult to obtain compatible parts and very difficult to find anyone who would know where to obtain them.

The surefire solution is to open the walls, take out the doors, cut them to be shorter, reinstall, and then restore the walls.  Easily said, but potentially a lot of work.  However, it is probably easier to get the walls to be restored and looking good than whatever you might do to the flooring.


Gas fireplace won't run/turns off when fan switch is in the ON position

So the batteries are only for when the house looses power. The "fan" switch actually cuts all power to the outlets under the fireplace. According to the manual, there is one for the fan, one for the pilot, and one for the REM/AUX.

According to the fan manual, it uses a temperature sensor to control the fan.

The reason the flame cut off when the "fan" switch was turned off, is that the batteries were dead despite having been new when installed last December. Since the batteries were dead, and power to the fireplace's control module was cut, it turned off the flame as a failsafe.


Is my surge protector really a surge protector?

Can the supplier give you a specification sheet showing what it protects against and what the component technology is inside of it? There are industry standards for Surge Protective Devices, (SPDs) administered by UL under standard number 1449 that separates them into different usage categories (hard wired, plug in, large, small etc. etc. If this thing is not UL 1449 listed, it is likely junk. If it is, then you would need to know which class it was and compare that to how you are using it.

https://www.ul.com/offerings/surge-protective-device-testing-and-certification-services

This UL site can direct you to a database they maintain on all of the different manufacturers and suppliers by plugging in the data you have on it and seeing if it is there.

Even if it is listed, that doesn't mean it is good, it basically just means it was tested to some minimum standard and will not start a fire (which is really what UL is about anyway). But the general rule is that the cheaper it is, the less likely it is to be of any real value. Most cheap SPDs are just what's called an MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor), a device that only conducts when the voltage rises above a certain threshold.

So what happens is that a "spike" of voltage comes in from the utility line, it exceeds the threshold of the MOV and the MOV conducts to ground, protecting your downstream equipment. That does work, except that when it works, the MOV is often sacrificed in the task, meaning it only works once or maybe a few times (if the spikes are low), then it is vaporized and no longer there. But you can't tell from the outside, so you don't know. So in my opinion if you are going to buy one at all, buy one with some sort of indicator, usually an LED, that tells you when it has done it's job and is gone. That way you at least know you need to buy another one.


fissures in joist: natural or insect damge

The grooves in the second picture appear to be pitch pockets which are fairly common in softwoods and construction lumber.

The fact that the pockets contain a noticeable amount of resin may indicate that the lumber was not thoroughly dried (as is with most construction lumber). Fast or uneven drying is also likely to cause splits or cracks as wood shrinks and expands significantly depending on its moisture content. The possibility of these cracks, however, is usually accounted for in designs and most splits stop at the center of the beam. See here for details.


Type of Wood able to be Curved around Line Bent Acrylic

If you want something that's flexible, then you need the thinnest board you can find. Something like this might work since it's only 1/4" thick. If you need a thicker surface, then glue two or more pieces together in the bent position. I've also seen boards placed in a hot steam to make them more flexible. Get plenty of extra wood to be prepared for some trial and error.


What do I need to do to prepare this trunk for painting?

First you need to remove the masking tape and the label prior to painting, or they will show through on the finished surface. Use Goo Gone or Goof Off as BMitch and Tester suggest. (I've never used Goof Off, so I can't vouch for how well it works, but I have firsthand experience on how well Goo Gone works.)
Next you need to clean the surface, at least with a damp cloth. Let it dry.
If you really want a clean edge for the parts you're not going to paint, you can use blue painter's tape to mask it off.
Next, prime the surfaces that you are going to paint. This will help the paint adhere to the trunk and reduce the chance of the paint peeling on down the road.
Finally, paint. I use latex for most of my projects, since it's easy to clean up. Pay attention to what type of finish you want. A roller will give you a slight orange peel effect, while a brush may leave brush strokes. If you want a smoother finish, you can add some Floetrol to latex paint to minimize any brush strokes. Buying a high quality brush can also help. You may have to do several coats of paint, but I'd do a minimum of two.
If you used painter's tape, carefully pull it up. If you have problems with the paint sticking to the tape, gently score along the edge of the tape with a razor blade.

I wouldn't bother painting the bottom.


How to convert 2 3-way switches to one single pole switch with dimmer?

After much reading, and much trial and error... mostly error. I ended up using this service -> justanswer.com

They connected me to a electrician. I sent him a couple of picture and in return he gave me the following pictures with instructions. I am in no way trying to promote this service, but the instructions provided solved my issue.


What size wire and breaker should I use for a small one bedroom cottage?

If I were you, I'd go as follows (assuming US split 240v)

Run 8 gauge THHN from your main panel to your subpanel (in buried conduit) and use a 50A breaker in the main. Run 4 wires so you get 240v and ground. Should be more than sufficient for anything you can throw at it and you can always expand if needed. Be sure to ground your panel to a grounding rod while you're at it.
Run your lights on a single 15A breaker. Makes adding lights easier, it's cheaper (14 gauge wire and 15A switches, and don't forget to add neutrals to the switch boxes!) and you won't be in the dark if you blow a breaker in the subpanel
Run a 15A breaker to a single dedicated outlet for your AC. It's overkill, but I'm assuming you have a 5k-6k BTU window unit. That's 6-7 amps, which is a lot to share with other outlets, even on 20A (especially with 2-3A for a fridge). If you ever decide to upsize, you have no worries about rewiring it either.
Run the rest of your outlets on one 20A circuit (12 gauge wire). Don't skimp and run them on 15A because you have a lot of 14 gauge wire. You'll regret it the first time you pop that 15A breaker.


Most alarms are plugged into a transformer, which is plugged into the wall. Easiest way is to find that, and disconnect it.

If there is no transformer, and it is hard-wired directly to mains power, then you have a couple options:

If it's on its own circuit, turn off the breaker (or disconnect fuse)
Turn off the breaker to it. Open the panel, and then disconnect the mains wires, and cap them off with wire nuts, before turning the breaker back on. The wires should look like your regular house wiring (in contrast to the small cat3 wiring the alarm sensors use).

It could also be hardwired to an external transformer (like a doorbell is), though I've personally never seen an alarm installed that way. If so, same options as before:

If it's on its own circuit, turn off the breaker (or disconnect fuse)
Disconnect the wires from the transformer, or inside the panel. They should be black and red or black and white, and marked something like "Pwr in" or "12V DC" or "24V AC". In the pic below, the power wires are the thicker wires on the left side: two go to the battery, and two go to the transformer/mains.


What type of adhesive is recommended for a curved shower curtain rod on ceramic tile?

There are many tension rods on the market that are expandable to fit a regular shower. They don't require any screws or adhesive. A screw mechanism in the rod holds the rod in place after tightening. Just a thought.


There are some good questions here in the comments of your post.

One thing you did not mention was the 125V measurement how that was taken from what to what.

So lets assume you have a 3-Way or a 4-Way hookup, you should have L1, L2, Neutral and if you have a 4th wire it will be the Ground.

Measuring

L1 to Neutral  125 VAC
L2 to Neutral  125 VAC
L1 to L2       240 VAC
L1 to Ground   125 VAC
L2 to Ground   125 VAC

Neutral to Ground  ~0 to .5 VAC.

Now you do not mention what the installers did - replace wiring or Circuit Breaker or leave the old breaker?

You should measure your voltage at the Breaker there should be a single or a ganged breaker that is for L1 and L2 - you should measure your voltage on the breaker terminals to see if you have proper voltage right after the breaker (seeing as you did not have it at the oven ???? ).

1: if you have voltage - turn the oven on and measure the voltage - if the voltage drops you have a bad breaker.

2: if you don't have voltage - you have a bad breaker.

3: If you have voltage at the breaker and while the oven is on as well - verify your wiring connections at the breaker, that they are tight. Then verify the neutral and ground connections are also tight. After this you will need to go to your oven and check the connections at the oven to make sure they are properly connected in a manner appropriate for your ovens connections.

4: If after these steps you still have no voltage - you have a wire break between the service panel and the oven.


Can I fix heat regulator (burner switch) of electric range?

OK, what you're suggesting will probably work. I have similar repairs on "ON & OFF" switches..BUT... The contact at #1 looks like a limiting device to break the circuit in an overheat situation. I wouldn't be messing with that. The problem as I see it is the burners wouldn't turn off. So if your fix doesn't work, the problem will return when you lest expect it..... Is it worth it?  How old it the range?  I'd be, and have done many times, buying a new switch. Many times the internal designs of these switches are improved and you'd never know it by the outside appearance so the existing problem you have might never occur again. My advice is to think twice about messing with range/oven switches. Good luck.


Yes, the correct way to deal with this is to wirenut (or otherwise join in a listed manner) those two wires and a short pigtail together, then connect the pigtail to the new switch.


Anchor drywall edge to ceiling next to a wall running along joist?

You can purchase metal "corner backing"--essentially a sheet metal angle that you attach to your top plate. It's very similar to corner bead, which could probably serve as a substitute, but it doesn't have holes and it's slightly larger. The drywall then screws into that.

Obviously the screws will penetrate the air return, but I don't consider that a problem.

There are also clips like this that you'd slide the ceiling panels into. They'd be oriented opposite of what's shown here.


What to use to seal an exterior cable penetration in brick?

Duct seal. The stuff from the electrical aisle, not the stuff with a similar or identical name from the HVAC aisle.
A non-hardening putty for sealing electrical ducts (conduits, holes in the wall) against water and insects.
Usually gray. Removable and reusable. Comes as a "bar" or "brick" of putty in a plastic bag (at least when I've gotten it.)


Plan 2 (solid plywood) for the win. That kind of weight (with extra leverage) would be terrible in just drywall with a single stud. Speaking of leverage, if you can consider making the strip of ply a little taller (like, 2'), it should be a little more solid. (Admittedly, this might be overkill.)

In addition to getting the plywood into at least 2 studs, you'll probably hit something in the corner as well, which is good.

Where you have a stud behind, you might as well use a longer lag to catch both the ply and the stud. Where it's just drywall, I'd be comfortable using a stubby (like, 1-1/2") lag, but a sturdy toggle wouldn't be bad either. (Or you could put t-nuts on the back of the ply and use threaded bolts.)


How should I choose between a pegwall or slatwall as a tool storage solution?

This is just my preference/opinion on the subject.

Both types have their uses.  If you have space for more than a single board, I would advise a mixture with more peg boards then slat boards. If you only have space for a single board then I'd recommend a pegboard because I find them to be more versitile overall.

The slats are good for hanging bins while the pegboard can be used to hang just about anything on it, depending on the type of pegs you buy.

I have these metal boards.  They are rock solid feeling and I never have to worry about breaking them.  Relatively cheap too.  (I am not affiliated with this site, but have bought from them before).

I also have some old wood boards in my basement from the previous owner of the house but a lot of the holes are broken.  I doubt I will ever need to replace the metal boards.


Why do electricians prefer not to use the push-in connections on receptacles?

The sockets I've been using for the last 15 years have standard screw connection, holes behind that location where the screw pulls a plate against straight stripped wires and the push-in holes.

After you've encountered a few burnt sockets from using the push-in connection in the first couple outlets in a daisy chain, you start to realize something.

The straight connections behind the screw are mechanically sound and require only a wire stripper and a screwdriver. You don't really save much time using the push-in.
Hoping and wishing that brass retains its spring pressure to maintain a tight, low resistance connection on the push-in connector after many heat cycles anneal it, doesn't make the connection mechanically sound. When the spring pressure relaxes as the metal loses its work hardening, you are left with a loose connection which heats, further anneals the brass spring and then proceeds to get hot enough to melt the supporting plastic shell.

Afraid to burn a house down during its lifetime? --OR-- Proud of sturdy craftsmanship that only takes a wire stripper and a screwdriver to make a solid, permanent connection?

Take your pick on how you word it, I'd rather err on the side of wearing the socket out from use, not having to replace it due to burning and melting from a loose connection.

Further observations:

On the mechanical connections: Brass has a similar coefficient of expansion as copper so is slower to loosen if tightened properly. This is one of the reasons why the old copper wire only sockets would fail with aluminum wire.
Due to daisy-chain failure, I once sectioned the side out of a new socket to verify "spring-loading" in the push-in contact. As copper wire is flexed, it work hardens. This allows the wire to put side pressure against the spring contact as the socket is pushed back into the box for mounting which can slightly unseat the connection. The lessened contact pressure causes resistance. Heat eventually anneals the spring causing it to lose its "tightening" ability leading to enough heat to melt the plastic supporting the contact. That observation is from disassembling a failed socket and the closeness that the hot conductor came to the others after burning/melting the support plastic was not good.
If you look up the receptacle specifications, the push-in is rated for 14 gauge wire. If your circuit breaker is 20 amp, you will be using 12 gauge wire and have to use screw head or straight in mechanical connections.


Putting an oversized register on the vent was probably done for aesthetic purposes.  It should have no impact on the heating system.  If the register were to reduce flow it would be a concern but going from smaller opening to larger register won't do a thing to heat distribution.


Should light fixture with outlet be grounded to metal box?

You should ground to the box, the light, and the outlet if they are metal and you are able, i.e. it has a ground wire or ground screw.

There is no harm in pigtailing off a short piece of wire to ground everything you can; it'd be worth it if anything were to ever short out.

And since I'm unsure by your post, I'll clarify this.. just because an outlet has 3 prongs does that mean that it is grounded. You still have to run a ground wire to it to make it grounded. Same concept as that the receptacle wouldn't be powered until a hot wire were ran to it.


Replacing wall plate with load bearing studs

I would pull the window, support the top plate with temp supports floor to plate (cut ½" long and tap the bottoms in until you see a slight  lift in the top plate) cut between the  siding and bad studs with a 12 " metal sawsall blade, remove all wood with any rot or deep fungus and reframe the whole thing. send the  studs through a table saw to make them match the adjoining studs to avoid broken drywall when reinstalling


I would disconnect and check it with an ohm meter it should show open for a dc test, if that is good short the end and make sure it shows shorted at the other end. It could be a nail or screw causing the problem or totally cut in half so both tests would give a basic idea on a gross failure.


Under Nec 2011, I need neutral to every switch box; can I just use 2 14/2's instead of paying extra for 14-2-2?

The Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) might call you on 300.3(B), since not all the conductors are in the same cable.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 300 Wiring Methods
300.3 Conductors.
(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of
the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor
and all equipment grounding conductors and bonding conductors
shall be contained within the same raceway, auxiliary
gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or
cord, unless otherwise permitted in accordance with
300.3(B)(1) through (B)(4).

You might want to contact the local electrical inspector, or redesign the circuit to avoid the situation altogether.


Do Not put BR breakers in a Murray/Siemens panel.

Breakers must match the panels.  Those will not fit properly.

You can either use Murray (Siemens) breakers in this panel...

... or take it back and get an Eaton BR 2-space panel of same type.

If you are married to this panel and have an Eaton gift card to use up, then get Eaton CL breakers, which are specifically made by Eaton for Siemens panels, and have been UL-listed (classified) for that purpose.

But you're on the right track

Just work it one step at a time. Your first drawing shows a correct hookup for a panel, with the accessory grounding bar you added, and with a special jumper between the two "poles" since you are using this as a 120V panel.

Now, there's one gotcha here.  As drawn, it has 2 wires on 1 lug.  That's not allowed.  Split the incoming hot onto two pigtails at a wire nut.

As for the branch circuits, you are connecting them correctly, in the manner which is "bog standard".

The neutral-ground bond

Now, this is a bit complicated.  Neutral and ground are separate.  Ground is only a safety shield, and neutral is the normal current return.   However, what stops neutral from floating at dozens or thousands of volts from ground?  The answer is a neutral-ground bond in exactly one place.  It must not be in 2 places, or it will destroy the grounding system's ability to protect you.

When you are on hotel power, (i.e. off a house), the one neutral-ground bond is in the house's main panel.

When you are on local power, the one neutral-ground bond needs to be somewhere.    Most consumer-tier sources of electricity, e.g. a portable generator or inverter, have a built-in neutral-ground bond.  Check it; if so that means your panel must have another.

Switching between inverter and hotel power

When you are docked, you want to be able to run on terrestrial utility power.  The "hard way" is with a transfer switch, and a service-panel/transfer switch combo is the cheapest way to do that, but still expensive because you need to switch neutral.  You can either use CDN$300 Canadian-style generator interlock panels, which have a 3-pole interlocked breaker that also switches neutral; or since your service is 120V, you can use a normal 2-pole panel with transfer switch kit, and make neutral one of the two poles. This makes the interlocked panel cheaper, but the breakers more expensive. For 2 circuits, an 8-space Square D "QO" panel will git-r-done in a compact package for about USA$130 - cheaper than the Canadian panels but still a lot.

However, the easiest way by far for a 30A supply is simply to use a loopback cord.

You bring the inverter's output to a junction box, and the panel's input to a junction box right next to it.  The inverter's output goes to a 120V/30A receptacle, either a NEMA L5-30, or a TT30.  The panel's input just has a 1 foot long cord coming out of it. Normally it's plugged into the inverter output.

For shore power, you unplug from that socket, and plug into an extension cord to the house.

The neutral switching gets magically handled by the plug/socket!


What are the pros and cons of installing a roof heating cable?

I'm a contractor in Maine and we certainly have a lot of experience with ice dams. An ice dam can be the quickest way to force water under the roof shingles even on a roof in good shape.

I have had mixed results with heat tapes. When they are used properly, they can be somewhat effective. Most folks expect to see a nice bare zig zag pattern along the edge of the roof with the ice gone around the tape. Not how it works!

If you carefully read all the directions on many of the competing brand heat tapes out there, you will see that they do not claim to remove ice dams. They are designed only to create a small open tunnel under the ice dam to allow water that is trapped above the dam to drain off the roof. This is great in theory but here is where the reality sets in.  If the tape does not extend slightly beyond or below the drip edge of the roof, it won't work. If the top edge of the tape does not extend above the ice dam, they will not work. If the gutters fill with ice and bridge the ice to the roof, they won't work.

Many of the tapes instruct you to only operate them when outdoor temps are 30 degrees and above. I have found that they are ineffective in temps much below 20 degrees. They also caution not to let them run continuously.

Running them in the bottom of a gutter is almost a complete waste of time and money. Since they only are capable of melting a small area around the tape, a gutter full of ice will stay full of ice! If the downspout is blocked with ice, forget it!

What I have also found is that folks get a false sense of security when they have them installed and neglect to remove the snow from the bottom 3 to 6 feet of their roofs, figuring the tape is a substitute for roof shoveling. Obviously, when they are installed, shoveling or using a roof rake gets a little tricky, so as not to rip the tape right off the roof.

I guess you can tell I am not a fan of these heat tapes. One method I have found to be extremely effective with dealing with an ice damn are nylon stockings or pantyhose (cut into two sections) filled with salt, calcium chloride or potassium chloride placed over the dam. They last several days and melt slowly and make a nice wide valley in the ice. I have seen hundreds of gallons of water pour off from behind an ice dam using them. Chopping the ice dam can damage the shingles and can be dangerous, but the filled stockings are fairly quick and easy.

If you have plants below or are concerned about salt staining your roof or  siding etc, I highly recommend Potassium Chloride which will not harm plants, grass etc. You can usually find potassium chloride at your local hardware store.

I can't take credit for discovering this method, but thankfully I learned it from a tip on This Old House many years ago.  I usually make up dozens of them in advance, so I am ready for all the calls from folks who wait too long and call to see if I can come fix the water leaking through their ceilings!


turning shower off before turning water faucet off

Welcome to DIY StackExchange!

I never heard of that. I always turn off the shower and let the spigot diverter fall when it's ready, if it ever does. I don't see how it would cause any extra wear.


Can Closetmaid wall clips be reinstalled after painting?

It depends on the clips used for the install. I already am sure the large clips for the forward edge of the shelves have the wall inserts as part of the clip, and when you pull the pin and remove the clip the drywall will never be the same. With care, you can reuse the clip. The clips for the back wall, if they have the inserts as part of the clip, the situation will be the same as the larger clips, the drywall will not take well to having the insert withdrawn. If the back wall clips have separate drywall inserts and can stay in thew wall while removing the support clips, have at it and paint away.


How do I wire a 3 gang switch in my new bath?

The following diagram should help you to visualize how to wire up the three switches. In your case you may have 12 AWG wire due to the 20A circuit. Also you will substitute one of the lights with the blower fan motor connection.

Picture Credit: Taken from this web page.


Darker areas on paint where I previously applied filler

I would wait for a couple of days to see if the filler (which maybe absorbed water from the paint) dries completely and then the color matches.  But since you didn't prime the filler (or maybe it didn't dry completely), possibly where it was thick, it has modified the color of the paint.  If the area is still darker after a couple of days of letting the paint/filler dry, then I would apply primer to those areas and repaint.  Hopefully you can use the same roller nap and get a good match on texture so you will not have to repaint the entire wall.


Starting at the last working outlet, pull the outlet out, after turning off the power, and check the connections, If the backstabs are used, remove them and use the screw terminals with a shepherd's hook on the wires. Then work your way down doing the same to the remaining outlets


3/4 way switch systems have a 3-way on each end and 4-ways in the middle.  As long as the smart switch is on a end (a 3-way position), it cannot possibly know there are 4-ways involved. So a simple mechanical 4-way inline is not a factor and can be disregarded.

When using dimmers, motion sensors, lighted switch, or any sort of powered switch, those absolutely do not support LEDs ... unless they do.  And when they do, there are conditions and rules.   So when chasing this kind of problem, it's best to divide and conquer: go  back to incandescents until the problem is sorted out, then handle the "making LEDs work here" problem.


How do I improve the insulation in a vaulted ceiling?

You're really better off with external solutions: some form of cool roof.  Presumably your three neighbors face the same unwanted heat gain, and perhaps could be roped into a common project.  Solid foil faced rigid foam is used in cases like this.


How can I remove this screw from a ps4 system?

For that top picture's stripped screw-head you can first try a drill bit turned very slowly to hopefully catch the head and loosen it. Or, you can cut a slot in it with a Dremel cutting wheel to get a flat-head screwdriver in to remove it.

If neither of those work or are available, then you'll need the a Screw-Out kit, most hardware stores have them from Craftsman or another brand. They're basically a special drill bit designed to remove damaged screws...they do actually work.


If your heating system is anything vaguely like a Honeywell S-plan, It is possible that you have a zone valve stuck open.

I would check the zone valve. Older ones had a small lever whose position indicates if they are closed or open.

If necessary, you can replace the motorized part without undoing the plumbing joints.


Storing comsumable dry goods in your car in the summer?

I'm going to treat this question as "how do I keep my home cool when it's a tiny home (often vehicles) and solar gain is my enemy"? Because that would be on-topic here.

Solar gain is your enemy

And to be clear, it is an order of magnitude worse than any other source of heat, even ambient temperature.

From the sun's perspective, it casts 100 watts on every square foot - from its perspective - and that includes the top and sides of your van.  This is then reduced by your vehicle's albedo, or its reflectivity.  Black vehicles have low albedo, and a pure white can have as high as 92%.  Also some of the surface heating transfers to the air near the skin of your van,   But with 100 w/sf, there's plenty left to heat up your van.  Windows absorb almost all of it, and cause the sun to heat up things in the interior of your van, where the heat can't leave.

Get it in the shade

Top of the list is place your vehicle in shade. What am I saying? Top of the list is get out of Florida... Mark Twain once said "the coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco" and he's referring to the coast effect.  Santa Cruz, Eureka, Portland, Seattle... Seattle still has to deal with solar gain, but only 3 days a year ;) But I digress....

In shade... I'm saying that there's a huge difference between attaching something to the surface of your vehicle and stood off above your vehicle.  The difference is airflow beneath it that carries the heat away, which is what makes it shade instead of attempted insulation. Solar panels are a great plan, but you need to stand them off significantly.  That will reduce your high speed fuel economy somewhat, because you are also increasing the aerodynamic "wetted area".

You might also consider deployable shades or solar panels on the sunny side - I assume you can select which side of the street to be on.  Again don't forget the objective is shade and to create easy rising airflow for the hot air the shades collect, so a series of angled surfaces with gaps between them is just fine.  Figure out the sun's angle etc.

Increase albedo

After your shading options are exhausted, you want to make sure everything is lily white, and have the albedo/reflectivity conversation with your coating supplier.

Windows have basically 0 albedo, so you really need to address those - the best option is place them in shade.

Insulate like crazy

Metal is a good conductor of heat, so the car's body will carry heat some distance beyond the area actually in sunlight.  Also, even shaded areas are subject to ambient air temperature.

Of course you don't have 24" to give up for a deep layer of fiberglass batt, so you need to go for the most efficient insulation you can obtain, and you need as much as you can possibly have.

Storing temperature-sensitive dry goods

As for storing dry goods, once you've done your best to make your space temperate, your best bet is to put it in some sort of heavily insulated box.  We'd also put as much "thermal mass" in there as possible.  The best thermal mass known is water (coincidentally). So freeze-friendly water-based things, like commercial ice packs, are a good choice for "thermal mass".

As a bonus, water also has a phase transition (freezing/thawing) at a semi-convenient temperature, and that gives it a huge amount of additional thermal mass if you're willing to cross the zero degree C line, however if you do that, you have to worry about condensation/sweating on your dry goods.

In a perfect world, your well-insulated box would have a small Freon-cycle machine to chill the box furth-- wait a minute.  Did you say you have a freezer and you just don't run it?  Run it!  You have a solar panel  for Pete's sake, I bet that panel is "dumping" lots of excess energy you can't store.  Use it for this.

If you don't run your freezer much because you have to run your van's engine to power it, then your solar system needs a lot of work.  Let's have a conversation about that.


Wall on subfloor is load bearing or not?

The link that BMitch left in the comments is a good guideline. The top 2 answers cover a lot of stuff to check.

All in all the best way to check, since the ceiling will need repair anyway, is to remove enough drywall to see the top plate, which is still not a sure thing even if it is a double top plate. I have seen many homes built where non bearing walls had a double top plate. The ceiling needs to be opened up all along the length you plan to remove to see if there is anything bearing on it in the way of headers supporting something on the second floor. Stranger things have happened. It does not have to be a wide opening, just up the  nearest joist that runs parallel to the wall is ample. This will also let you see ductwork or plumbing and electrical that will need to be rerouted as well.

As a mention, even non bearing walls should have a joist or two under them since the subfloor usually will dip under the load of the non bearing wall. Then yes, if it is non bearing, you will be doing the first floor a favor...


I suspect you have an air admittance valve. Based on your description perhaps it is under the sink or even (improperly) in the wall.

An air admittance valve is commonly used for venting things like islands where alternatives are complex and there is no stack. They often leak sewer gas, though, and are often prohibited for use.

On the bright side if you're going to replumb anyway you should be able to add a more reliable vent fairly easily (though perhaps a little tedious)


Is it safe to convert a candelabra base in my ceiling fan to a medium base for use with larger CFL's?

You will be OK as far as not overloading electrically. You need to adhere to the most restrictive labeling, the 40wx3. Since you are using 27wx3, you are OK. The 75w limit is for the socket base only. It can handle 75w, but the rest of the fixture cannot. Be aware that 81 watts of fluorescent light is WAY more than the 120 watts of incandescent. If 120 watts was adequate, this could be overkill. There are various CFLs available in a range of light output, so you should be able to find an appropriate output.

Another consideration is weight. Some CFLs are rather heavy, and that weight cantilevered out by the adapter adds significant leverage on a socket only intended to support a small candelabra lamp. Multiplied by the fan vibrations, this could be an issue. Carefully evaluate how sturdy the sockets are mounted before proceeding with this change over.

And of course there is no way the bowl will fit over this sort of configuration. You will have the joy of everyone being able to see your handiwork :)


Should I be using the little copper bit inside this 3/8 water connection?

That looks like an olive for use with a copper pipe.
The pex fittings I use have a split collar as they are designed with the water seal internally onto the brass spigot and the nut/collar is to secure the pipe into place.


From the video you provided, it looks like a recessed light fixture that is missing the trim.

You should try to find some identifying marks on the inside of the fixture and then find a compatible outdoor trim.


How do I fill drilled holes on a concrete floor and won't make it look fresh and blend it with existing floor?

If you're using epoxy or a urethane based putty to fill the holes, scrape some of the nearby cement with sandpaper or a wire brush and brush that over the filler while it's still "tacky". It should help to hide it a little.


How do I chain edison bulbs together with a junction box?-

I see three questions to answer:

1) How do I wire the lights?

You need to wire them in parallel. Assuming you are in the United States, your wires will likely be white and black. This diagram shows how the lights should be wired together.

2) How do I connect the light to the box in the ceiling?

Electrically speaking (and assuming that the wires in the box match the standard color-coding), you connect the black wire from your lights to the black wire in the box, white with white, all with appropriately sized wire nuts. If your fixture has a ground wire or screw, that should be connected to the green wire or bare copper wire in the ceiling box.

To physically attach your light fixture to the box, you use the metal strap attached to the ceiling box. (The one with the hole in the middle that the wire is sticking out of.) You can remove the screws on either end and the strap will come off. Mount the strap on to your light fixture, then put the strap back in position and screw it in.

3) How I use the white junction box?

Read the directions. It will likely say that you can not put multiple wires in to a single hole. Therefore, this junction box will not help you "split" the incoming wires to each of your lights. Find a different solution. Alternatives would be wire nuts or push-in wire connectors. Just make sure you use the correct nut or connector based on the conductor size of your wire. Wire nuts are appropriate for stranded wire. I've had mixed success with push-in connectors and stranded wire so I would stay away from that combination.


Remove the bolts and inspect the threads of both the bolt and the tapped (threaded) hole in the frame.

You have three possibilities here:
Either A) the frame threads are damaged, B) the bolt threads are damaged, or C) both threads are damaged.

If A) or C), you're unfortunately out of luck without drilling and tapping a new hole as Tyler has said (this won't work if the frame is plastic with threaded inserts). This is the most likely because your bolts are probably steel and your frame is probably aluminum, or plastic with inserts.

If B), take the bolts to a hardware store (Ace Hardware usually has a great selection of individual bolts and are usually more helpful, but a place like Home Depot or Lowe's will also work) and find new ones that match. Then take care not to over-tighten them!

General rule: if there isn't a torque specification on a bolt, run it down "snug" (until you start to feel resistance, then give it another quarter to half turn). "Snug" is subjective but it should get you pretty close. And it'll help when assembling cheaply-made parts.


Previous home owner had hole drilled for shower drain through the metal web joist in the floor. Is this structurally ok?

Um.. NO. That is a HUGE hole in the width of that strut. and those nail plates are not strong enough to handle compression like that.

They should have added a couple of 2x4s  (Narrow side up) , nailed frequently to the top strut, across and on either side of that join, preferably to the next web, to replace the material lost.

They should also have fired the plumber or the architect...

It does look like you can add the 2x4s yourself fairly easily, though swinging the hammer on the rear side may be a challenge.


What sort of transformers are needed for LED spotlights (MR16)?

My questions are... Is it normal to have one transformer per bulb?

Yes, though not always. Track fittings in particular use many bulbs (usually 12V MR16) off a single transformer/driver.

  My assumption is that the LED bulbs flash because the transformer is not the right one, is this correct and which one should I get?

  I also assume the other fitting do not light, either due to faulty wiring or more likey the transformer has blown?

The transformer may have a minimum load, below which it won't switch on or will oscillate between on and off. Have you tried putting the old halogens back in? If they work, the transformer is OK.

  Do the transformers have to be dimmable, considering we don't have a dimmer switch.

Nope.

If you want LED bulbs (and don't mind about dimmability), it may be easiest to replace the MR16 downlights with mains-voltage GU10 ones, and use GU10 bulbs. No transformer/driver required.


Can I direct wire an under the counter light into the LOAD terminals of a kitchen GFCI outlet?

Nope -- kitchen receptacle circuits need to stick to kitchen receptacles

You'll have to run the lights on a different circuit to meet Code, as putting lighting on a kitchen small appliance branch circuit violates NEC 210.52(B) (in particular, 210.52(B)(2)).  Note that "outlet" by itself in the NEC means any place where power is supplied to a device (whether it's a luminaire, a receptacle, or a piece of hardwired equipment), not just receptacles.

  (B) Small Appliances.

  (1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry,
  breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling
  unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch
  circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and
  floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all counter-top outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for
  refrigeration equipment.

  Exception No.1: In addition to the required receptacles
  specified by 210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a
  general-purpose branch circuit as defined in 210.70(A)(1),
  Exception No.1, shall be permitted.

  Exception No.2: The receptacle outlet for refrigeration
  equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater.

  (2) No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance
  branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no
  other outlets.

  Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to and support of an electric clock in any of
  the rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1).

  Exception No.2: Receptacles installed to provide power
  for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired
  ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.


Kitchen sink/garbage disposal waste draining into backyard

In California where I live, gray water systems are allowed by some localities, but generally only for showers, laundry, and lavatory sinks. Kitchen sinks tend to have grease that is too hard to break down.


What's the spanner called for these "four side notch" collars/bolts?

A hook wrench (as used on bicycles)

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16291/what-tool-is-needed-to-adjust-this-headset-on-a-childrens-bike


Any reason not to put a structured wiring enclosure directly next to the house main breaker box?

Wire access space. When you plant something near the breaker box, you can't then enter the breaker box from the area blocked by that something.
You are going to be blocking off (what sounds like) a whole side of your breaker box from access. That can come back to bite when you need to add something later, and really wish that the other box was in the next stud bay leaving an open stud bay, rather than sharing a stud with the electrical box.


Can I use old abandoned iron pipe as electrical conduit?

Your biggest concern here is going to be the condition of the interior.  If they are at all corroded or otherwise rough on the inside they run the risk of damaging the insulation, which can lead to an eventual short and/or electrification of the pipes.  Protecting the wire where it enters and exits the pipe is also a concern.

Basically I think you could do it, but I wouldn't recommend it.  My gut feeling is that it's  too risky.

Since you've got a perfectly straight run - can you possibly remove them and replace them with proper conduit?


220 outlet burnt caused other outlets to go out breaker didn't trip

You wrapped those burnt wires in electrical tape and turned it back on?  Please turn off that breaker and get an electrician in.  And check that your smoke detectors have working batteries.  At the very least all the wire in that box probably needs replacing.

The outlet likely caught fire from a loose connection.  The other outlets affected are probably downstream from this one - power for them flows through that outlet, which is why it has 2 sets of wires.  It is possible for this to happen without tripping the breaker.  The loose connection acts more like a heating element, using lots of power but not enough to trip the breaker.  An AFCI breaker might have tripped, but even then might not.

The wiring needs to be checked properly and any damaged sections replaced.


Is there any reason not to use the trap door ash receptacle in my fireplace?

The benefit is that (with the door below closed as per normal practice) you don't need to wait for anything to cool (it's going into a nice masonry chamber, nothing to burn) and you don't need to carry ash through the house. You dump the ash (hot or cold) down the hole all winter, and when spring comes you shovel it out from the basement and go spread it on your garden (unless you are in an alkali soil area. In acidic soil areas wood ash is quite beneficial to gardens.)
@jstola's nightmare scenario is frankly a bit far-fetched. Those cast iron doors don't just fall open by themselves, and any smoldering combustion byproducts would be filtering up by the trapdoor, into the chimney, and out of the house.


How to cut already installed fiberglass insulation to add new recessed lights

If the basement is conditioned space, and what's above is conditioned space, the insulation is not doing much other than some possible sound reduction. (though if you don't cover it with drywall the paper may well play the role of fire hazard...)

If the fixtures ARE IC (insulation contact) rated, you can cut a hole that just fits. If they are NOT IC rated,you need to cut  considerably larger hole in the insulation and remove it, not "backfill" it. You can also do that just to simplify your life if there's no significant temperature difference between the basement and the space above it.


How do I rewire this circuit controlling several lights and receptacles?

You have an aged system that is seriously compromised.  Based on the question, you seem to have little experience with eletrical work. It is usually better for a novice to begin with straighforward tasks on a healthy system.

I would strongly urge you to bring in a professional. As other have suggested, a full upgrade to the service panel and the wiring is highly desirable. While it may be possible to cure the current problem without a full ovehaul, you need someone very knowledgable with the right equipment to ensure that the repair is sound and safe.


What are the dimensions of US outlet holes?

Let me introduce you to the wonderful world of Google Image search:

nema 5-15 dimensions

It's a great way to find drawings and other visual information.

Here's a drawing pulled from the search results:

Powercord CN

Dimiensions are millimeters with a comma used instead of a decimal point.

NEMA Website

Following some image searches and regular searches I also came across the official NEMA Website

This NEMA WD 6 - Non-Locking Plugs and Receptacles - Excerpt PDF should have the information you want.


What adhesive can I use to reattach and seal these fractured tile pieces to my fireplace?

I've had a similar situation and I found Liquid Nails for Marble and granite to work very well. It's also rated for use on metal. You can purchase it in single tubes and it's great for spot repairs on tile and granite. Just make sure the surface is cleaned and follow directions. Be sure to secure the tile in place until it dries.
I couldn't tell if there is grout between your tiles. Grout is prone to crack with vibration but I'm sure you'll want to match whatever is there. If you change what's between the tiles it may not match. If there is a gap, be sure to use spacers for a uniform gap on each side before you grout. Then all you do is match the grout color.
You can also use the Liquid Nails to join the pieces of tile before you mount them but if they are large pieces and the surface you're mounting it to is even you may not have to do that. Good luck.


Matching stain is very difficult. Seriously, I heard of one guy who markets himself as the "Wood Whisperer". When guys start calling themselves a wood whisperer, you know you are getting into the black arts.

Typically the average floor installer will use a wood wheel from his manufacturer and pray.

That said, you will not know how good the match is until it ages a little bit and fades, so you have to give it some time. Basically, what this means is that in 3 months if it still doesn't match you can call the guy up and yell insults at him.

You cannot "fix" a stain. You can try re-finishing, but you are rolling the dice even more on that one, because then the wood wheel will not work anymore. The wood wheel is only for fresh installs. Refinishing requires a "wood whisperer". Also, refinishing is expensive because it involves sanding.

Note that finishes can vary under different lighting conditions, so that a finish that matches in daylight, could look totally different at night under incandescent or fluorescent light.


How do I determine the fill rating of a conduit?

All conduit has a fill rating (which equates to 40 % of the free area full of wire, unless there are only 1 or two wires - in practice, less fill is better - the full-rated fill is VERY hard to pull into conduit. That is slightly different for different type conduits due to the different actual size of the hole in the different types of conduit. There are charts in the NEC, and there are also a LOT of on-line conduit fill calculators (and some charts.)


How well does a single A\C unit provide 2 zone cooling?

Using a single HVAC unit with zone dampers is pretty well-established and can save the trouble of having multiple separate units.
Some things to discuss with your salesman (and if s/he doesn't have detailed answers, ask for someone with detailed knowledge):

If your cooling needs will often only require one zone or the other (i.e., daytime downstairs, nighttime upstairs), will the system cool that single zone too rapidly to allow proper dehumidification?
will it have the capacity to cool both zones effectively when needed? (balancing this with the first point may require careful sizing of the system)
if the system fails, you have no cooling.   With two separate systems, you're likely to have some cooling in the house with one system running.
this might give you the option for a third zone, if your current ductwork allows (i.e., split one of the zones into two).   This could be a cost savings if you are currently cooling space that's not used full-time.

We've been in a house with three zones on one system for 13 years  and it's served us quite well.

I can't comment on that specific unit or the Nest.


If your sauna heater is a 240 volt heater, you don't need the grounded (neutral) conductor. You can simply cap it off using a twist-on wire connector, or other approved means.