Why does my subpanel have 4 wires feeding into the lugs?

You have a 240V-only panel. It does not support neutral.

It provides hot-hot-ground, which is perfectly modern and legal.  It is adequate to power any 240V load.  It cannot power a 120V or 120V-240V split load.

It is not a 120/240 split phase panel that has been grandfathered. If it was, it would have neutral and not ground.

I gather the big flexible black cordage goes to a 240V pump.  It appears the wire colors have faded.  It would have been correctly tapped hot-hot-ground, and black, taped white and green are legit colors for that connection.

Looking at the updated photos, yes - this is an all-240 setup.  Note that only the black and ...?orange? Wires actually connect to anything.

Double-taps. NO.

It appears that power visits this panel, then travels onward to another subpanel or point-of-use.

Note how 2 wires are landed on each main lug.  Not allowed unless the lug's instructions specifically say double-tapping is OK. It's especially important to follow instructions when aluminum wire is in use!  So these should come off, and each pole should go to a 3-tap lug, with a short pigtail (in the larger wire size) to go up to these existing lugs.

Instead, if these wires are paralleled from the same supply wires, that is not allowed.  Remove the smaller wire and downbreaker to the ampacity limits of the larger wire.

That 120V doesn't belong there

This is very typical of 240V-only panels: along comes some clown who wants 120V, and doesn't care that it's a 240V-only panel.  (many are unable to conceptualize that there even is such a thing as a 240V-only panel, they want to install a 120V load, therefore every panel is 120V!)  And so they just "slap in a breaker" and go ahead and bootleg neutral off the ground wire.

This work should be torn out on sight.  There should never be current flowing on ground, except when a ground fault is occurring.

Edit: looking at your pix, that's plainly what happened, the 120V GFCI was an afterthought and he just bootlegged neutral because he didn't know any better.  Into the trash it goes.

Dealing with those 120V loads

They never should have been installed in the first place, and need to be replaced.

Lamps are easy: many modern LED fixtures and most fluorescent ballasts will work on a range of 110-277 volts.  Wire them up 240 and done.

For pumps and water handling bits, you can get 240V motors or 240V versions of the appliances. (no 120/240 split phase).

If all else fails, small 120V loads can be supplied by a 240V/120V isolation transformer.   Using a cheaper "step-up/step-down transformer" is very tricky and I don't recommend it.

Edit: That GFCI+receptacle - gone.  If you have a compelling reason to need a 120V convenience outlet there, you'll need to pull an entirely new 120V circuit from the main panel.  Or alternately, convert this subpanel to split-phase by pulling a neutral from the main panel and replacing this subpanel with a suitable one with a separate neutral and ground bus.

If you continue the light as a 240V light, you'll need to change the white wire to a color.  You are not allowed to tape white wires when the work is in conduit.

GFCI

I can't quite make what I'm seeing in this panel.  It looks like a 4-space GE Qline panel, and you have elected to install their half-width "double stuff" breakers, filling 1.5 of the 4 spaces.

There has to be GFCI protection in here somewhere.  It may be at the main panel on the 60A.  This is one thing you shouldn't try to "grandfather".

The problem is GFCIs are bulky breakers.  They don't come in double-stuff.  So you'll need 2 whole spaces (those occupied, plus the empty half-space to the left) just for the 30A pump 2-pole GFCI.

Since it's a 240V-only panel, all breakers must be 2-pole.  That will leave you 2 spaces for one more 2-pole GFCI, and that will have to power everything else.  I suppose you could use a 15A or 20A based on which wire sizes you have installed.  As far as outlets, the same rules apply to 240V/15A as 120V/15A; you can have as many outlets as you want shared on the circuit.  You'll have 3600W on a 15A circuit, so power won't be a problem.


How to Seal leaks on an air compressor system

Rubber (better, usually) or plastic tubing on a barbed joint is not a suitable place for any sort of sealant, and none should be required.

If the tubing is cracked, either cut off enough tubing to remove the cracked end (if it's just at the end) or replace it.

Otherwise, push the tubing fully onto the barbed fitting and tighten the clamp(s) - in some cases adding a second hose clamp with the clamping mechanism rotated from the first hose clamp (so if one has the clamp screw at 3 o'clock the other would have it at 9 o'clock) may help - often the barbed fitting is long, and clamp used is short.

Oversized clamps wound down too small may have excessive not-roundness near the clamping mechanism; a properly sized one will work better in that case.


Wiring requirements for garage and bedroom addition

As recommended by wallyk and yurly, add another circuit or two. There is usually no way to tell exactly how may outlet and switches etc., are on the same circuit. If there is no spare breakers in the breaker panel, use tandem breakers. This will allow two circuits to reside in the same space as one.

There are tandem breakers available by all manufacturers, I believe.


What Automatic Transfer Switch can switch between parallel sources without a priority setting so as to run a well pump from either of two homes?

A DPDT air conditioning relay should do the trick

House 2 is connected by default.  When House 1 calls for water, it "takes over" and powers the well itself.

Air conditioning relays are rated at 30A and are rated to start motors.  It's a 2-pole relay, and it switches both hots, but not ground.   This setup must not use neutral: if it does, get a 3-pole DPDT relay, which will be rarer and more expensive.  A relay normally connects its two Common  terminals to its two NC terminals (Normally Closed, or connected when not energized).  When energized, it disconnects NC and connects Common to the NO terminals (Normally Open, or connected when energized).

Each house has wires going to the well pump which are past the presure switch, i.e. They are energized only when that system is calling for water.  Those are the wires we will be working with today.

The two wires from the pump are connected to the relay's Common terminals.

The pump wires from house 1 are connected to the relay's coil.   That means when house 1 calls for water, the relay will snap over. The pump wires for house 1 also go to the NO (connected when energized) contacts on the relay.

The "common" wires on the relay go to the pump.  That will connect house 1’s power to the pump.

The relay's NC (connected when not energized) contacts are connected to the pump wires from house 2.  That means house 2 powers the pump whenever house 1 does not.

Note that NC and NO terminals never connect to each other.  That is VERY important!  For instance there is a scheme with simpler relays that is dead wrong and will short the two houses together. At best, it will trip the breakers. At worst, this will make both houses' meters spin rather faster than you want them to.

Phasing

Normally in mains electrical, nobody cares about phasing because loads don't care.  However in this case we may be switching "live" between two power supplies if both houses call for water.  If we switch phases when we switch power supplies, it will cause the motor to jerk rather hard, and that could wear out the motor.  The one at the bottom of the well.

We presume that the two houses are powered from reasonably close points on the power grid, that will be close to "in phase".  This may not be possible: if they are on different transformers they may be irreparably out of phase, in which case you may need something more sophisticated.

The way you phase them is by running two different color wires (e.g. red and black) starting at the pressure switches. When able, have both houses call for water, and measure voltage between the two blacks.  There should be near 0 volts between them. If there is near 240V between them, they are out of phase - swap red and black on one of the pressure switches and re-check. Later, if anybody has work done to their service panel, check phasing again.

From this point up to the relay, be careful to keep red and black matched.


Which home automation standards will work with Apple and/or Google's forthcoming sofware?

All that Google has, from what I know (and googled to double check), is that they own Nest.  They apparently had an "Android @ Home" project a few years ago, but I couldn't find any recent news on it.  Personally I'd bank on Apple moving in on your home before Google-- simply because they already have their framework public, so developers can already start creating apps

https://developer.apple.com/homekit/
http://9to5mac.com/2015/01/22/apple-details-homekit-compatibility-with-competing-home-automation-platforms/

Apple's HomeKit framework will only be compatible with "MFi" (made for iPhone) hardware.

Here is a nice article that recommends some hardware that will already be compatible with HomeKit apps, and claim they should also be "future-proof"

http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/future-proofing-smart-home-apple-homekit-compatibility/

Of course all of this also depends on what phone you have as well.


Is it safe to clear out a garbage disposal with a hand?

It would be up to you to decide the value of your hand.

I rather enjoy having my hands, so I use a stick when needed. Never felt the need to buy a specialized tool. Sometimes what's jamming the garbage disposal is, itself, sharp - a tin can lid or glass object, for instance. Naturally, those things are not supposed to be in there, but it does not mean they can't be in there, by accident. It's also a fairly nice place for growing things you probably don't want to get in a scratch, much less a full blown cut. So, even if the thing is unplugged or turned off at the circuit breaker, there's a hazard - if it's only turned off at the wall switch, there is always at least some potential for it to be turned on with your hand in there, and that would be rather unpleasant - but some folks don't want to bother making sure it can't be turned on, because they are sure it won't be...


I'd have to go with the ballast of the first light (that switch 1 runs to) has died and needs replacement. However, tube-fluorescents have terrible socket connections and I've seen earthquakes, rumbling trucks, direct impacts and power surges kick them askew.

If you have tubes, then start with number 1 in just giving the bulbs a little twist to see if they pop on...yours may work in pairs-only, so you get one to flicker and then twist the other to get them both solid.

If so, then just do the same to the other 2 fixtures. If not, then a new ballast should remedy the situation.


Asbestos has been banned in Europe for over a decade you will be fine.
Blue and brown asbestos was been banned since 1985 and white asbestos since 1999 (resolving and complete end by 2005) so 2008 (manufactured or sold) gypsum board could not legally have asbestos.

The only danger you'd face is the possibly older insulation behind it or you end up shaking an older ceiling.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos#United_Kingdom

http://ibasecretariat.org/lka_eu_ban.php


Replacement swivel for swing-top reading table

4" flat square lazy susan bearing will get you what you need.

Turntable bearing may also work without offending hardworking suzys.


The black wire from the /2 cable needs to be pigtailed to the LINE terminals on both devices

We know, from your testing, that the black wire from the /2 cable is the incoming always-hot wire; this means that the black and red wires from the /3 cable are the outgoing switched-hots for the two sets of lights this box controls.  Therefore, we wire the box as follows:

Black from the /2 gets nutted to a black jumper wire, or pigtail (12AWG THHN always works) that goes to the LINE screw on the smart switch and also to the LINE wire (or pigtailed to the LINE screw) from the dimmer
Black from the /3 goes to the LOAD screw on the smart switch
Red from the /3 gets nutted to the LOAD wire (or connected to the LOAD screw) on the dimmer
All the white wires get nutted to each other and to a white pigtail that heads off to the silver neutral screw on the smart-switch (if the dimmer has a silver neutral screw, it needs to be pigtailed to the neutral-junction as well)
And all the ground wires (green and bare) get nutted to each other and to a green or bare pigtail that heads off to the green ground screw on the smart-switch, and to the green ground screw on the smart-dimmer if it has a screw for ground, too

Then you can button the box up, turn the power back on, and enjoy your new smart switch!


Slow water drainage, then air bubbles from shower drain

There's a very good chance it's caused by a blockage from a lower unit. You could try running a snake down your shower drain to see if you could clear the obstruction. Other than that, since it's a rental let the landlord know about this as other units might be affected. He should be the one to call the professional, not you.


Use the circular saw.

Clamp a piece of scrap 1" by something down to guide the saw for a straight cut. This will take some time to lay out, but it will be worth it.

Get your saw up to speed before cutting the hardboard.

Additional Tips from the comments:

Put masking/painters tape on the cut line and cut down the middle of the tape.  This will reduce splintering of the edges.

If using a circular saw, cut with the finished side down.  Splintering, if any will occur on the back side, which is hidden.

Pro-tip: A table saw with the blade lowered makes a perfectly serviceable dining room table.  It also makes carving a roast a breeze.


"they would tear any lose areas, spackle the torn areas , and spackle the seams". Sadly, this never works. The fact that there are loose areas means that more can appear at any time. The painters should have done whatever was necessary to remove the wallpaper. Instead, they compounded the problem. The easiest solution and probably the least expensive would be to add new drywall over the entire wall. Good luck.


Name of metal tube for water shutoff access

I recently had a similar problem fixed; the city called this a curb stop valve.

Alternate reference (using the terms "curb valve" and "sidewalk valve"): http://www.harriswatermainandsewers.com/news/article/water-line-curb-valve-sidewalk-valve-how-they-function


What to use to fill holes in floor tile in kitchen

Are these screw holes? What material is the tile? A picture would be helpful too.

But generally speaking, you can use anything that won't look ridiculous. The tile should be well supported aside from the little hole, so there isn't a structural concern. There isn't a significant water infiltration concern on a kitchen floor. So it's really just about what will blend visually:

Grout will adhere well and cure hard. Probably the best choice for blending with a stone tile.
Caulk is easy to apply. Won't be as durable as grout but probably OK in the middle of a tile. If you're looking to match a glossy surface (like a white porcelain) this is a good choice. I'd recommend using a silicone or polyurethane based caulk here; latex/acrylic painter's caulk wouldn't stand up to much foot traffic.
For the most durable but most expensive and difficult fix, go for a color-matched epoxy. This is the sort of thing countertop installers use at joints, and can be gotten or mixed in a big range of colors.

If you are seeing a caulk that's a decent color match, I'd probably start there. It'll run you like $5-10 a tube and if it sucks you can scrape it out and try something else. I wouldn't worry about kitchen/bathroom/whatever type, as these differences mostly have to do with microbial resistance additives and other stuff that isn't really significant if you're not caulking around a shower or sink.


Is it normal to have a bulge along the seam between pieces of drywall?

A typical horiontal seam for drywall occurs at 4ft.  Usually its the best seam because the 2 long edges (of a 4'x8' sheet) are usually tapered, making a blended seam nearly perfectly flat.

Fixing this depends on how perfect you want it to be.

Nearly perfect: rough up paint 15" above and below bulge.
Using bulge as a guide, put down general purpose joint compound above and below with a 12" taping knife.  You are building a ramped area that will fool the eye, because it extends over 24"

When dry, lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper blocks. Shine light along wall from above. If no prominant shadows emerge, paint and enjoy.

If not, recoat and resand. I've never had to go beyond +/- 12" to hide a seam.

Is the wall flat? No. Is it not noticeable by casual inspection? Probably.

Perfect is a whole 'nother chapter.


Technique or tool to properly expose LED strip wires?

I have used weatherproof LED strips like in the picture below.  My technique was:

Cut the strip to length at one of the designated places with sharp scissors.
Using a not-to-sharp knife ( I used my pocket knife rather than a razor blade ), cut through the rubber coating perpendicular to the strip.  Cutting into the wires or plastic backing strip shouldn't be an issue with an old knife, but still be careful.  if soldering, you only need to cut back enough rubber to clear off the contacts.  If using the crimp connectors, use a connector to measure where the rubber should be stripped (about 1/2" back).
Bend the strip along the cut that you made.  You should only have to bend it about 90 degrees.  This will make the cut open up.  If you didn't cut all the way through the rubber, that will be obvious now, and it should be easier to cut the remaining material.
Using your fingernail or your old knife blade, try to get under the rubber layer and start peeling it off.  On my strips, once I was able to get it started, the whole chunk would peel cleanly off.
If the rubber shreds or does not come off, use the knife to continue peeling any residue off.  If necessary, lay the strip on a hard surface and use the knife to scrape residue by holding the knife blade perpendicular to the strip.  If you angle the knife, there is a greater chance of cutting the strip.

image taken from: http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/z-how-to-RGB-strip-wire-solder

I have not used their how-to, I have only used the non-solder connectors.  I was able to make my splices look much cleaner, but I couldn't find a better image.


can I use 1/4" J Channel to mount 3/16" thick mirror?

A mirror that big will have some flexibility if there is some room behind it. Especially when you press on the mirror such as when cleaning it.

I would recommend using a padding technique on the back of the mirror to give it a firm seating against the wall whilst at the same time causing it to flush out against the front inside edge of your J channels.

The technique I would use would be to get some 1" wide foam type tape that has glue on just one side. Stick short strips of this to the back side of the mirror near the edges and at various points in the middle area. If one layer of the tape is not thick enough then simply place additional strips directly on top of the first set to increase thickness.

The 1" wide foam tape should be available at most hardware and home supply outlets. Do select carefully as foam tape with glue on both sides is also common.


Water damage or bad patch job on the ceiling directly under the shower stall of master bath?

It is both.  Probably.
A section of drywall was removed to fix a leak.
Perhaps the leak has returned and now moisture has migrated into the seams of the resectioned area causing discoloration. However user DMoore has never seen such a thing and his reputation is beyond reproach.
So it could be that a section of drywall was left out during drywall install to leave access to the underside of a shower that had not yet been hooked up.
This was done in my house when the plumber was on vacation and the drywall installation had to proceed.
To be certain that it is active leak use a moisture meter to determine that this area is significantly higher in moisture content than other areas in the ceiling.
If it is wet  a similar cut out will need to be made so that whatever is leaking( most likely  the drain) can be fixed.  Then a new patch can be made.
Followed with a stain blocking primer and repaint the ceiling.


Why is it acceptable to interlay felt with cedar tapersawn shakes?

It's all about the headlap. The reason for the felt interlay on Tapersawn Shakes is so you can maintain the weather exposure at 10". 10" weather exposure on a 24" long shake only creates a 2-ply system. Once the felt interlay is added, it creates a 3-ply system, essentially adding 14" to the top of your course of shakes. Shingles are installed with a much shorter weather exposure, 7 1/2" max. on 24" long shingles. The felt interlay between shake courses allows you to increase the weather exposure, but maintain the appropriate amount of headlap needed for the shake roof installation. By doing this, you also decrease the amount of shakes needed to cover the roof area, as well as, lower your material cost.


If you are using thin-set, then damp is fine (as in, dry with a towel).  It is usually a good idea to damp the tile and substrate with a sponge anyway, (especially if tiling to wood/gypsum(drywall) etc.) so that the substrate doesn't soak up all the moisture from the thin-set.

If using mastic, you want the tiles to be dry.


What could this white substance on grout be?

That is calcium buildup from hard water. Do you have well or live in the city? Some cities also use well water mind you. Another thing can be if it is city water, high chlorinated water. Ultimately no way to resolve either other than cleaning it with baking soda, vinegar or CLR.


What is this wire nut-like cover called?

That is a rubber insulated open end crimp. They can be removed without cutting the wires.


Sonoff make several different products, if this is their "BASIC WiFi Wireless Smart Switch" it has N,L in and N,L out. It presumably connects L in to L out on receipt of a signal from a remote control.

You show the switches wired in parallel, which should work as you describe:

s1  s2  lamp
--- --- ----
on  on  on
on  off on
off on  on
off off off

It is doubtful the device is designed for use inside a ceiling rose. It may be hard to find space there. The device might be unable to dissipate heat in a confined space. Ideally you'd ask the manufacturer for advice.


How to install a replacement lock in a mailbox?

Remove the hex nut. Insert the lock. Replace the hex nut.

You'll probably need to use the key to hold the assembly while you loosen the nut, but it shouldn't be too tight. If it is for some reason, maybe use a large flat-blade screwdriver and just insert it a bit into the keyslot. In a worst-case scenario, put a wrench or pliers sideways on the lock latch and hold it that way.


Can a door bell be powered from a receptacle?

There are a small number of battery free doorbells such as these

They work on a signal generated by pressure (piezoelectric?). These are similar to the wireless battery-free switches now showing up for AC fixtures.

 Images and links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of any products or sources


These are copper press fit connectors. They have "o"rings installed at each end of the connector.

Once the connectors are in place, they are crimped with a special, and expensive, tool. They are supposed to be as good as sweating and Sharkbite connectors but they are not reusable.


LED light bulb flickering in socket, incandescent works fine

Are these the the type of motion sensors which use the neutral wire?   A motion sensor needs power to work.  Ideally it gets always-hot, and neutral, and then provides a switched-hot to the target bulb. Such a unit should work fine, I use them widely.

However some motion sensors are designed like old school dimmers - they are designed to work in old-style "switch loop" wiring which did not provide a neutral.  They get power by placing themselves in series with the incandescent bulb - they allow a small amount of current to leak through, not enough for the bulb to light.

This totally falls apart with CFLs or LEDs because their switch mode power supplies do not play nice with that scheme.  My suspicion is you have one of these.

You can get new sensor heads that do have neutral wires and attach in the same way (screw into a 1/2" knockout).  I use them widely and they play nice with everything.

Or you can get entirely new sensor/lamp combos which are sealed, since the LED emitter is going to outlive us all.  Some of those are 12V internally, i.e. the sensor runs on 12V as does the LED emitter head.  12V detector heads are much more economical than 120V ones.

Or you can slap an incandescent into one of the lamp positions.  Or a resistor of appropriate size which has the same effect.


Replacing two pronged outlet with GFCI not grounded...is it adequate for electronic devices?

You can get a 3-prong plugin at locations that only have  2 wires by installing a GFCI.  There should be a label in the box with the GFCI that says "No Equipment Ground" which must be applied to the face of all 3-prong outlets protected by the GFCI including those downstream.

It's perfectly safe for your power tools, plug your drill, etc in as much as you want.

A surge suppressor plugged in at that location will NOT work. The wiring fault light on the unit will be on, because the is no actual ground which it need to suppress a surge.

Your smart phone probably isn't 3-prong.

Edit: (thanks to @craig in comments) Laptops with a ground pin should not be used in a GFCI labeled as "No Equipment Ground".  There are varieties that may need Equipment Ground for effective static discharge. I can also find examples where I don't believe that's the case, but it's better to say laptops should not omit the equipment ground.

"Other" electronics may vary by what and why it's a 3 prong plug. The consideration is that the human safety from electric shock is covered by the GFCI, if however the device needs ground to dissipate static charge, or has built in surge suppression, it should not be used in an outlet marked "No Equipment Ground".


If you are  not intending to use the downspout for anything but the one purpose than just eliminate the bottom portion all together otherwise you will end up with water just filling up and stagnating in the capped off portion.

Just divert the downspout with bends, 45 or 90 degree bends, to the to point your are collecting the water so there is not a bottom portion to cap off and collect water.


Is there a term for this carriage door stay?

If you can't find a pre-made set, I'd imagine you could build one.

Use a heavy duty wheel mount (i.e. get rid of the wheel) for the portion on the door.

Find a piece of "C" channel for the piece on the door header. Cut a slot in it with a grinding wheel.

Pick another, smaller piece of "C" channel for the slider between them. Cut a notch for the catch.

Attach a piece of chain.


How much can I safely suspend from ceiling joist? Which screws?

These floor trusses can handle a lot of weight.  Nothing to worry about regarding the projector.  They could probably handle a couple of hundred pounds each.  I would recommend that you drill that bottom cord and use 1/4" bolts.  They will last indefinitely.  P.


How should I level the concrete foundations for my fence's CMU block pillars?

First off, your last question, which is most answerable:

  how to you level discontiguous pads of concrete 10 feet away from one another?

Homeowner, these days, a laser level is easiest unless you happen to accumulate old survey equipment (guilty.) But you use the same techniques that work with a dumpy level or a transit - shoot a level line, and measure how far below it your surface is. Two things that are 42" below a level line are at the same level. If one is 44" below, it's 2 inches lower. 41-3/8" it's 5/8" higher. With CMU, adjust to the nearest 8 inches if using mortar, or the actual height of a block (no mortar) if using blockbond. Nails on the inside of the form is the usual level mark before pouring concrete in.

Whether you set the fence "level" or follow the grade is, well, up to you, people do it both ways, matter of opinion, also tends to vary in a practical sense with how far out the grade is (a level fence might be 4 feet high at one end and 20 at the other, which gets a little impractical and suggests following the slope more.)

You can use the level and measuring stick to determine exactly how far off level your grade actually is, if that would help you come to a conclusion.


What should I look for when diagnosing electrical circuit gremlins where load is much less than capacity?

Replace Capacitors in LCD TV Power Supply

I would suspect that the problem is within the LCD TV. The power supplies inside LCD TVs and LCD monitors use cheap electrolytic capacitors that go bad and cause problems with the device. Your symptoms are representative of the TV power supply just starting to go bad. Small amounts of transient noise on the AC power line caused by switching other loads on and off, particularly the fan speed controller, gets into the TV power supply and causes a disturbance such that the various DC voltages inside are momentarily going unstable. When the TV was new the capacitors in the TV power supply were able to filter out the noise and power line disturbance but as they start to go bad the TV acts up.

It is highly likely that you will continue to see degradation in the performance of the TV over time. A common set of symptoms to look for include:

The TV may become difficult to turn on wherein you have to press its ON button multiple times to get it to stay on.
In the failure progression you may observe a point where when you go to turn on the TV it will blip on for 1 - 2 seconds and then go back off.
Eventually it may get to the point that the TV will just simply fail to turn on at all.

I have personally experienced this problem with two of my own LCD monitors and got them back to perfect working order by replacing the power supply capacitors. In this case the monitors were about 3 years old. At my place of work I have been reclaiming failed monitors, ranging in age from 2 to 6 years, that were set for scrapping simply by replacing their power supply capacitors. So far I've reclaimed over a dozen monitors that are now keeping their owners happy as 2nd or 3rd monitors off their company issued laptops. Most recently a colleague came to me with his LCD TV with the problem that it was failing to turn on. I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on his LCD TV power supply board and he reported over the Christmas break that his TV is now working perfectly.


THHN to NM-B wiring, Transition from External Piping Conduit to in wall junction box

The problem with a project like this is that the code doesn't really want you to get creative with line voltage power.  That's for good reasons:  there are a lot of potential hazards if you go afoul of the code.

The unprotected splice from THHN stranded to NM in the wall is a no-go.  You might be able to work something out with a box and cover that work with the pipe floor flange but you probably won't like the way it looks.

If the piping is seen as a home made non-listed light fixture, that's frowned upon.  If you look at the piping as a protective sleeve for NM cable - and run NM with jacket in the piping - it might fly, but it would still be in a gray area at best.  Then again considering the piping as part of the home's structure - that might fly, but you'll still probably need a box at the fixture.

If an inspector doesn't see it the way you do, you have a headache.

Grounding / bonding the piping is a real issue and screwing that up could create some pretty scary hazards.

There is a simple alternative.  If you're going to get creative, get creative with low voltage lighting, the hazards are drastically reduced, and the code requirements reflect this.  It goes from fuzzy gray area pain in the butt hurt somebody / start a fire worries, to do just about whatever you want and nobody cares.


Would Replacing an Existing 3/4" Water Main Line with 1" Improve Overall Volume/Flow to House (GPM)

I would assume there's a pressure regulator somewhere after the meter mounted on your house ?

Loosening the locknut(s) and turning the adjustment clockwise will increase that flow.. You might not have to go thru all this, if your place has a pressure regulator.


From the photo you posted I can see you have a different problem from what you may think. The reason the vent pipe is damaged is because a "critter" has ben gnawing it away!  The most likely suspects in the animal world (in N.A.) would be in the rodent species: squirrel, rat, chipmunks, porcupines to name just a few. You can see the small serration grooves cut by their continually growing front and lower teeth.  What is extremely astounding is that the material is lead. A soft metal! You have a very determined and serious critter wanting 'in' to your house! Normally I would suggest en-circling the pipe with a wire mesh, but I would think it could rip through it and come back for seconds!    Repair or replace the vent as easiest and best you can. To stop the chewing apply a coating of roof patch to the pipe, covering it completely. I would try to catch the pest to prevent it from future damage elsewhere and from infiltrating your home.


How does 4-quadrant metering of 3-phase electricity work?

As you already know, 4-quadrant electricity meter just means it can measure the flow of power to the customer even if it is a reverse flow.

Your concern is whether generation and demand is recorded separately, or if the meter only records the net power flow. The key is that your meter is a "multi-phase" meter. Because your generator is connected to a different phase than your load, your ACE6000 can record the flows for each phase separately and independently.

You can see that each phase is measured and recorded on page 7 of this manual for the ACE SL7000, a brother to the ACE6000.

http://jocuccok.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/itron-ace-sl7000-tb-gb-0903.pdf


Could running two 15 amp circuits of NM wire in parallel cause interference?

Interference usually happens with cheap electronic dimmers and fan controls are on the same circuit, with the light flickering when the fan control is activated.  Other than that, nothing much I know of in my 20+ years of electrical.


Sounds a lot like my house before I redid my kitchen. Current code requires at least two 20A circuits in the kitchen, for exactly the reasons you stated. My kitchen used to be almost all on one circuit (except the oven & cooktop).  I also have one 15A circuit that powers: kitchen lights, cooktop hood fan/light, 1/2 the bedroom lights & receptacles and 1/2 the main basement room lights & receptacles. Not unusual at all for the 1950s.
But why, you ask, if so much is crammed on each 15A circuit, is there a 20A circuit with just the one receptacle at the panel? Very simple: Your house, like mine, originally had a fuse box rather than breakers. Or even multiple boxes, using the Rule of Six. I still have mostly fuses, except for a small breaker panel added when I redid my kitchen.
In your case, my hunch is that a previous owner decided to replace the fuse box(es) with a nice big panel. When they did that, the electrician added, at very low cost, a convenience receptacle next to the panel. It is quite likely the electrician added some new circuits somewhere, but didn't bother (because it wasn't a problem at the time) to replace the existing circuits. Any of those old 15A circuits that included 14 AWG wire couldn't be changed to 20A, so even though that would be useful, especially in the kitchen, the existing circuits had to get 15A breakers.
If you have room in the panel, you can wire up new circuits to the kitchen. If you do that, they should be 20A and they must have GFCI, either in the breaker or at the first receptacle in each series.


Sagging Floor Joist in House Built in 1925

It's not unusual to see sagging floor joists on houses that are nearly 100 years old. Sagging joists can be adjusted with jacks, then permanently supported with a wall in the basement (or knee wall in a crawl space). This sort of thing is often best done by professionals though, because if done on your own too quickly you can cause other damage, or if done without permits, it can become a liability to a future sale of the property.

Black plastic may have been added as a vapor barrier over under-floor insulation, the 1" holes may have been part of a radon remediation effort. In other words don't jump to conclusions about fraud.


When should I worry about icicles on my gutters?

The icicles are caused by heat escaping from your house, into the attic. This melts the snow on your roof causing icicles. It has nothing to do with your gutters.

If you want to reduce or eliminate the icicles, the best thing you can do is add insulation to your attic and seal other means of air escaping (non-sealed recessed lights leak a lot of air).

If you would rather just tackle the ice dams then you might want to consider electric heating wires on the roof which will melt the ice and prevent it from freezing on the roof and gutters.


Can I drill holes in septic tank risers to off-gas hydrogen sulfide?

Both tanks (in fact, the whole system) should be designed to vent gases back through the house vent stack. Drilling holes in the "riser" (are you calling the inspection port/manhole the riser?) will release the gas there and cause odor at that area. It could also expose an innocent passer-by to poisonous H2S gas.

I would be careful following this guy's advice. If the system required additional venting it would have been designed and installed to provide that.


Paint left on electrical wires in switches and outlets?

This is a nuisance caused by sloppy drywalling and painting, and is utterly harmless.


2-wire switch loop controlling 2 outlets - replacing with 3-wire to fix?

The reference to a switch loop in the related question describes a pair of wires that are both hot or live. The white wire is serving as a black and should have a black marking or tape on it. The switch is serving as a break in the hot line.

Every operating device (like a fan or lamp) in standard wiring needs a hot line and a neutral line, and usually a ground, although that is not strictly necessary in all circumstances. In the wiring described in the other question, there was no neutral running through the switch box, but there had to be a neutral connected to the device itself, in the box that the fixture was attached to. The neutral wire is never switched, so only the hot lead was routed to the switch loop. Modern code requires that new switch circuits also have a neutral present, since some newer switch devices need a neutral to function.

Your situation may be different. On your circuit, one of the three boxes is closest (electrically) to the main panel. There is a live circuit line running either to one of the outlets or to the switch box. In either case the outlets you describe must have a neutral wire present as well as a hot wire.

If you want the fan to be switched on and off by the same switch as the outlets, you can simply add a wire from either outlet box to the fan location and connect all wires in parallel (black/white/ground).

If you want a separate switch for the fan, you need to tap into the power where the live circuit comes in to the room. It may be either of the outlets or it may be the switch box (if there is a neutral in that box). You need to tap into the unswitched hot, run that hot to a new switch and connect the neutral and ground in parallel. Then run the full cable from the new switch to the fan.

If you want to use separate hard wired switches for fan and light, run 14/3 from a switch box fed by the always hot line, using the two hots separately for the two features.

An alternative if you want separate switching is to run a full cable (14/2 or 12/2) directly to the fan from the box that has an unswitched hot. Use a fan that has a hand-held or wall mounted remote and wire the fan as always hot (no line switch). Then the remote controls whether power is going to the fan. This also simplifies installing a fan/light combination.

As to your other outlets, white wires are generally not hot unless used to connect to switches and should be so marked. Most white wires are neutral. You can test your outlets for correct wiring with a plug-in tester like this one.
.

If the tester reveals miswiring, you should consider calling in a pro. It also sounds as if you are not too familiar with wiring in general, so you may want to enlist the help of someone with a bit more experience until you become more confident. In any event be sure to turn of the circuit breakers before opening any box and confirm wire are not live with a non-contact tester like this one

 images and links are for illustration only, and not an endorsement of goods or sources


How to physically disable the "large load" option on a washing machine?

somewhere in the back there is a pin which limits the rotation of the shaft. move the pin and the number of options will be reduced. (some unknown amount of dissasembly will be required)

or you could add a pin to the back of the knob and cut an arc in the panel to accomodate it.


What is the proper way to measure the cut-out for the kitchen range?

Typically a "drop-in" range will rest on the adjoining counter top surfaces.
That the actual cabinet is narrower, gives you the wiggle room you need to drop in the unit to install it.

If you want to change to a cooktop installation, that is something that is only supported by the counter top, then you'll need to build a cabinet, and provide a counter top with cutout to fill that space.

In any case, as others have suggested, check the exact measurements of any product that you select.  In this age of the internet, most manufacturers have their Installation Guides online, you can pull a copy in spite of the retail staff.


Can I remove the insulation from flex duct

Technically I suppose you could remove the insulation around flex. Why would you want to though? I understand that it fits tight through there but in my installation of commercial duct work (on the side) we have just compressed the insulation. It is after all flexible. One thing that insulation around duct work does is prevent condensation on your ducts when you run the air conditioning in the summer. You may think no big deal but that slight bit of moisture and a couple of drops can start other issues. It's good to keep your ducts insulated. I would say either pipe it through the (and insulate the pipe) joists and put flex on after that or just squish the flex with the understanding that it may affect the airflow to that room (depending on the squish factor)


Why would a water fountain pump make a lot of noise before it is submerged in water?

The magnet rotates with the incoming mains frequency .When there is no water there is no lubrication of the plastic coated magnet and the plastic housing .Water is a good lubricant for plastic parts .Also the water muffles some of the remaining sound .


How do I keep my outdoor trash cans from blowing away in the wind?

I've seen some houses near me have a sort of cage for them -- looks like a little fenced-off area on the side of the house, with the trash cans in there, and can swing open in front to get the trash cans out.

If it's really windy, you might need to add a top to it, so the trash cans can't lift out in high winds.


Can I run the wires from a cable into a panel through separate knockouts?

No never; you can never split a cable like that.

What you can do is transition to EMT conduit and individual THHN wires, which will pack nicely in EMT conduit.

I would start by heading to a proper electrical supply house for a cable clamp that is a proper fit for your large cable.  You need a proper electrical supply because they have both the depth of stock and knowledge.  Home Depot etc. will sell you the wrong thing with a smile.

Next, I would buy a large steel box, say 4-11/16" square deep, or 6" square, with knockouts that will fit that cable clamp.

I would use EMT metal conduit to plumb out of a knockout on the service panel, to a convenient location. This can be just a foot or two.  There, install the box. Use the largest size EMT the panel knockout can accept (3/4", surely)  and correct fittings. If the junction box hole is too large, they make special washers to solve that, but then,  you can't use the EMT as ground path, so run a #10 ground wire.

There should be a #10-32 tapped hole in the back of the box for a grounding screw. If you are wiring a ground wire through the EMT, pigtail off this.

Then, you terminate your cable in the large junction box in the normal way (give yourself 12" of wire length).  Terminate the ground wire to the box chassis or other grounds.

For each of the hot and neutral wires, obtain the appropriate gauge copper THHN/THWN-2 wires with enough length to reach the breaker, run through the EMT and give 12" spare length in the box.  You need one white or gray for the neutral, and two of any other color but green.  Black and black is fine.

Run the three individual THHN wires through the EMT conduit, terminate one end at the breaker or neutral bar.  Inside the box tie the individual wires to the wires of the cable.

Three THHN copper wires of #6 will certainly fit in a 3/4" EMT conduit, and are good for 70A. This is more than #6 cable.

If the wires are small enough, you can use large wire nuts for the splice, otherwise use right-sized Polaris style connectors. If your cable is aluminum, that is fine but you must use Polaris.


After doing more work with the drill pump, I've decided that it's actually pretty good.  It takes roughly 2 minutes to pump 6 gallons @ 15 ft of head, so I supposed that'll work.  I'll just have to make sure my Makita's battery has a good charge on it before I start pumping.


Open front and top panels on Whirlpool Cabrio gas dryer

Is this correct
I am almost certain that is the same model I have if so I have opened mine a year or so back.  I installed the LP gas conversion and reversed the door.
I will search my archives and see if I can find how I opened up the front.  I know it was found when I searched by looking for installing LP conversion.  The link shows door change in the pdfs but not much more.

Something in back of my head tells me I had to pop the top up to lift the face.  And I am fairly sure I removed a couple of screws.   Again I will search my old computer archives for info I saved on this (a few terra bites of files to look through).  But do look at videos on LP conversion for more light on subject.

Install instruction video


What is the best way to protect a burnished concrete floor during construction?

Plywood. Lay down some sheets and connect them together to stop them shifting if you want to keep them there for a significant period.


Why does my fireplace pilot light go out when I turn on the flame?

Is the new log set the same btu? If your new assembly is using the original gas valve with a larger btu burner there may not be enough back pressure to maintain the pressure needed for the pilot. I have seen the supply line being two small for the size burner have this same problem.
That case a 1/2” supply line to a burner that was 10000 btu larger.  the owner wanted the larger burner for heat when power was lost ,  To solve the problem we tried a new regulator before he told me he had increased the burner size. Upsizing the supply line to 3/4 and it worked fine. The original gas valve was large enough but the smaller supply line caused the problem.
If your new log set is larger you may have the same issue, reducing the jets size or increasing the supply size may solve your issue.


2 switch to one - Similar but not the same

The black wire going into the groups of black wires with the red wire nut is your feed. The solo black and red wires were your travelers to the other switch. Connect your feed to one of the travelers. Try your other switch. If the switch position is correct, toggle up is on, toggle down is off, you're good to go, cap the unused traveler. If not, then connect the feed to the other traveler and cap the unused one.
Put a blank box cover over the box without the switch. It has to remain accessible and can't be drywalled over.


You didn't specify the Lutron Model number of the switch but most of the Lutron Maestro switches are not like conventional 3-way/4-way switches. They require a Lutron companion switch at the other 3-way location in order to operate properly. Check the instructions for multiple location installations. Make sure the circuits off when you change the other one,  hooking them up live can kill them, and they're not cheap.


How to wire ceiling fan motor to supply but light kit to switch?

Your wiring should look something like this.

The incoming "hot" connects to the black motor lead of the fan, and the white wire of the switch loop.  This white wire will be marked at both ends, with black tape, marker, or paint.
Connect the neutral from the feed to the neutral of the fan.
Connect the blue light kit wire, to the black wire coming back from the switch.
Connect all grounds.

This will allow the fan motor to always have power, so it will be controlled by the built in pull switch. The light, on the other hand, will be controlled by the wall switch.

Technically, this is no longer a code approved installation, since there's no neutral at the switch.  However, since you're simply installing a lighting fixture, you're not required to bring the wiring up to current code.


Can I use bisphenol resin to bond plastic?

Epoxy is not a bonding agent; it is a filler. Use something that is called plastic cement, or melt the pieces together. Epoxy only works well for bonding if the surfaces are rough such that the epoxy can fill the voids on each side of the bond. Epoxy's internal strength is high, but it does not attach well to anything, so it can generally be pulled right off its host surface. The only way to attach something to a smooth surface with epoxy is to drill through the surface and let the epoxy ooze through those holes and spread out on the other side; like a molly bolt.


The picture shows a copper pipe with a compression-fit valve attached. The copper pipe is presumably just a straight section of pipe going into your wall box, and the silver-colored thing with a shutoff knob is a valve attached to the pipe. Are you trying to replace the valve or use the threaded output on the valve itself?

If the existing valve simply has the wrong size output to attach your icemaker line, then the adapter you need is one that takes this valve's male end and adapts it to 1/4" male. If the existing output is a little too wide, then most likely your existing valve is 3/8" (typical for faucet supplies). So you'd need a 3/8" Female to 1/4" Male fitting like this one.

(Note that the linked fitting includes a compression nut that you would simply unscrew and discard for your application - you'd just screw the adapter to your existing valve, and then screw the line to the adapter.)

Another options would be to replace the valve with a similar one that attaches to your copper pipe but has the desired 1/4" male output. You'd buy a new valve with a similar compression fitting designed for 1/2" OD pipe. This would attach to your existing copper pipe, but you may need to cut it and polish it with emery cloth to ensure it is smooth and circular, so that the compression fitting can attach properly.


Time Frame For Dealing With Flooded Carpet

Depends on a lot of unknowns; temperature, humidity, carpet material, how dirty it is etc. etc. Could be as short as hours though, days at best, but not weeks.

You need to dry out that carpet immediately. I would call a "starving student" moving company or someone like that and have them move the "collection" somewhere like a storage site or one of those temporary containers they put in your driveway (PODS is one company I see, stands for Portable On Demand Storage), that way your relatives can pick through it at their convenience.


plastic interlock screw ? this screw with no head

Those hammer in, so will be hard to remove in a way that makes them re-usable. You could try getting a putty knife or slot screwdriver under the head and prying, but you'll probably make a mess of it.

I've found that the nice people at the Ikea parts counter are pretty good about providing replacements if you show up with the old part (and, as you have, the part number).


What should I use to patch this gap between brick siding and top of foundation

Take and angle grinder and cut out the metal as much as you can.   The part sticking out isn't doing anything.
Use an epoxy concrete kit to fill in the gap.
Skim on a layer of concrete patch - to even out the corner and cover epoxy.

I would not just fill this with a concrete patch.   It will even pop out of that gap.  The skim layer may eventually fail too but it will have no bearing on water getting in and can be repaired in minutes.


How do I know if I can run power to a garage from my breaker box?

No need to worry, a 200 amp supply box has more than enough reserve to power your garage.  If there ever was an exess draw - anywhere in the system - your circuit breakers would react by tripping.

You could run a sub panel to the garage, in case you ever wanted to use more powerful tools in the garage.

Install a 50 amp duael breaker in the panel, run #6 three-wire line to the garage in a plastic conduit line and connect it to a sub panel circuit box in the garage.  Then you can run individual 20 amp circuits from the sub panel to power outlets in the walls and another circiut to your workbench, etc.  you could run 3 or 4 20 amp circuits in the garage.  This would leave you in good stead for any future needs in the garage.


The wire size depends on the breaker. Since you did not provide the size of the heater I would suggest 20 amp breaker with #12 wire. #14 with a 15 amp breaker may be large enough if the heater is a small one under 1000w. You should use a GFCI outlet or breaker.


My dad solved this problem by drilling many holes into one edge of a 1x2 that did not go all the way through. Rows of these were nailed up across the wall studs near the drill press. It was easy to find drill bits even if there was no particular order. Multiples of one size could be placed into one larger hole.

Keeping a digital caliper on a hook nearby allowed quick diameter measure if needed. Also helpful was the printed drill size and thread chart taped up on the wall.


What type of glue should I use to repair my hardwood floor?

We only use Titebond III waterproof wood glue on Hardwood flooring.  You can clean up excess with water before it cures. This stuff works great and allows some flexibility for expansion and contraction.


Look for the "H" & "L" carb adjustment screws. Get a small screwdriver that will fit those screws. Crank it up, keep it running with the trigger. Adjust the "L" screw one way or the other, in quarter turn incriments, until it idles how you want. Keep track of the turns, in case that doesn't work.

Wind it up again, H screw may need a little tweak to get back up to the rpms you're looking for. Again, count your turns.

If that doesn't work, you may just have dryrotted gaslines, leaking too much air into the jets. $30 fix at most shops.


I'm surprised your inspector is willing to sign off on a rather clear Code violation
Putting a breaker panel, meter-breaker, or any sort of overcurrent device over the steps of a stairway, as you are proposing to do, violates NEC 240.24(F):

(F) Not Located over Steps. Overcurrent devices shall not be
located over steps of a stairway.

So, if you want to use a meter-main for this job, you'll need to move the service mast to a place where the clear working area in front of is on flat ground; while around the corner to the right didn't work, placing it where you describe off to the left side would provided the service drop can reach there.  Amazingly enough, though, your utility's service requirements for overhead service do not expressly prohibit mounting metering over stairs, so if the service mast can't be moved, that'd be a good reason to have a separate meter base and main panel instead of a single combination unit.
If you are going to go with a combo unit, don't pick one that limits your options for getting power out of it
If you do go with a combination meter-main, your biggest issue will be finding one that does not limit your breaker options excessively.  For instance, most center-fed/single-column-width meter-loadcenters (such as the SC2040M200C you are proposing) cannot handle a 200A branch breaker due to wire-bending limits. You could go with a unit with a set of 200A feed-through lugs in it instead, such as the GE TSM820CSCU in a ringstyle, single-column-width form factor or the Eaton MB816B200BTSCU in a ringless, over/under form factor, but that comes at the cost of having fewer breaker spaces in the meter-main.  Over-under units with more spaces, such as the (ringless) Milbank U5268-XTL-200, are also available and provide space for a 200A feeder breaker or subfeed lug block in lieu of the feed-through lugs, but that does lead to somewhat more difficult wiring bending-wise.
The side-by-side, full-width meter-loadcenter you proposed, namely the SC3042M200PS, does not suffer so much from these infelicities, but this design is not as common in 200A equipment, especially for feed-through-lug configurations.  However, with 30 full-size breaker spaces, sacrificing four of them to a feeder breaker or subfeed lug block is generally a more acceptable tradeoff given that the outdoor panel doesn't need to do all the work.  Do note that some side-by-side, full-width meter-loadcenters (mostly Siemens units) suffer from severe stab ampacity limits that keep them from being useful in applications such as yours, although the Siemens MC3040B1200SECW is a useful alternative to the Square-D part you suggested.
Note also that with the coming of the 2020 NEC, you will need to provide a firefighter's disconnect on the outside of the structure; while a meter-main is the simplest way to do this, it does not prohibit you from going down the road of a separate meter socket and main panel, either.


Is it common to not find water when digging a sump pit in a basement?

It is very common to not hit water in the dry season. Some homes have sump pits because the walls allow water in through cracks and there is not a true high water problem, this is common with block walls. I have poured several basements and sealed them from the outside and installed drains and backfilled with rock; no leaks no pit needed.


Changing old bathroom receptacle to gfci

Most GFCI devices will take 2 wires underneath one screw.  You loosen the screw, then insert the 2 wires in 2 back-connect holes that are under /next to the screw.  Then, you tighten the screw firmly to clamp the wires.

If I had one that didn't t have the feature, I would either take it back and exchange for one that did, or use a different technique called a pigtail.  However, a pigtail requires that you have spare wires and wirenuts and a stripper.

You may note that there is a warning label on the GFCI that says, "Do not use. For wizards only." or words to that effect.  There are in fact screws under that sticker, but it's a big mistake to use them here.  So leave that sticker be.


How to retrofit existing kitchen exhaust fan

That whole fan assembly will need to be replaced unless you want to do some work hand-making a bracket that will accept a modern exhaust fan motor.  Even then, the fan motors and blades for a modern install probably wouldn't move air efficiently in that size of enclosure.

Your main concern will be finding a new fan that is easy to connect to your 3x10 vent.  They are probably available, but most ceiling exhaust fans that I have seen are made for a round rigid or flex duct.


Can anyone help me identify this old audio cable?

Those are 5-pin male DIN connectors.  Same as used in the original IBM-PC keyboard cables.

From the photo this is obviously a patch cable of some kind for an audio application.

Here are some typical wiring schemes:

(Shields are connected to pin 2)

5 pin Male cord Mt. 180 degree, Din Connector (Amazon)


Should I hire a mason to repair wall damage with incorrect brick?

Well as a Waterproofer and Restoration worker I would call a local waterproofing company and ask if they have any guys that can do this type of work.  Personally if the brick is in a noticeable location I would pull a brick off a inconspicuous area and use it for the patchwork and replace it with substandard brick.


Possible New Cracks in basement of 18 year old house

Cracks in walls mean movement due to external forces. Noises are usually from settlement of the structure (from lumber drying out and shrinking).
The narrow vertical cracks in the block wall are probably caused by foundation settlement or sol movement. Unless water is leaking through them they shouldn't be a serious problem. It would be wise to monitor them to ensure they don't increase in size.
This is probably the noise your mom hears in the still of the night. Creaks and groans are common with a house trying to get situated.
Fill the cracks with a urethane caulking. If cracks are active you will see new gaps along the caulk.


How to fix condensation between layers of insulation in unfinished wall?

The water is coming from the air inside the room, not from outside.  It is condensing on the colder surfaces on the exterior walls (even if they don't feel cold).  What you are doing is fine, it will block any air seepage and add some insulation value, but won't stop the problem you are having.  What you need is a vapor barrier on the interior surface of the insulation to prevent the moisture in the room air from coming into contact with the colder layers of insulation inside the wall and condensing.


Should I hang drywall up to the ceiling (using steel studs)?

Drywall is part of the fire retardation system in many types of construction. The thickness is specifically designated to provide a certain timing before a fire can spread to an adjoining area.

Failing to have the drywall fully enclose the wall defeats this. It also compromises the insulation of the room, both with regard to temperature and sound. It may also increase the likelihood of air infiltration (drafts and temperature issues).

If this is just temporary (as @TheEvilGreebo queries), you may be fine so long as an inspection is not done and you will seal up the space soon.

If this is a permanent approach, you have a problem.


Can I run only hots to outdoor safety switch

You have two choices

You either can run all the wires to the switch and then run all the wires from the switch to the appliance (using wire nuts or setscrew splice lugs for the neutral and ground if the switch does not provide neutral and ground bars), or you can run the hots, neutral, and ground to the appliance and then run a 240V switch loop out to the switch where the unswitched hots go out and the switched hots come back.

Given that this is likely larger than a 20A or 30A circuit, and /4 NM isn't available in larger than 10AWG, the better choice is to run all four wires to the switch.  Using bars vs. nuts or setscrew splices is up to you -- just make sure the switch enclosure is properly grounded via a pigtail if you do the latter, though.


why is my generator running but you cant plug in anything

Did you check to verify the circuit breakers haven't tripped. I attempted to find a manual on line and was unable to download the file from the SmartTool web site. I was checking to see if the unit came with replaceable brushes in the generator. Brush failure is pretty common issue with discount generators. If you can get replacement parts they are usually easy to replace. It can be as simple as unscrewing the cap, pull out the spring and carbon brush and install the new one. If you remove the old ones a local small engine shop may be able to match them up with a generic part.


How can I achieve the correct garden tap orientation when threading it in?

The threads are not all exactly the same. Using some Teflon tape on the threads will allow for some adjustment without leaking. Pipe threads are tapered and will seal prior to not being able to turn further. I put a few wraps on the pipe and when it starts to get stiff to turn I will leave the faucet in the proper position. (With most fittings I could go at least 1 more full turn or sometimes even 2 so it will end up in the correct position without leaking.


The round hole/port where the conduit fitting is located is actually a threaded port.
If you unscrew the locking nut on the fitting, you will then be able to unscrew the threaded conduit fitting from the threaded port.

Threaded port:

Seal-tite conduit connector:


Can a green wire be used as hot if it's reidentified?

Absolutely not, for 2 reasons.

You need the ground for ground!  That metallic jacket is NOT a suitable ground, that's why there's a ground wire.

You are not allowed to re-mark wires that are smaller than 4 AWG (which is huge) with the solitary exception of "marking white to a hot if it's in cable".

What you should do is instead, run flexible metallic conduit (FMC) and run the individual THHN wires that you need for your application.


How do I extend an Ethernet cable at a wall socket?

Correct solution - replace the wire with a long enough wire. This plays to "why network & telephone wires should always be run in conduit, always."

Kludge that will still be difficult with only an inch inside a box - put a plug on it and use a dual-jack extender.

Kludge that will work fine if you are OK with drywall and paint repairs - move the box 4" up the wall.


How do I remove concrete that has splattered on my brick pavers?

Use a pressure washer with the widest angle nozzle held about 2 ft or more away from the pavers will take off the residue. Don't get too close or the intense water pressure will also take away the smooth finish of the pavers..


A humidifier is made for this exact purpose.

However

I personally do not care for any form of a humidifier, and I tend to like my environment on the drier side (<30% humidity).

Only by using a humidity, and some common sense can you monitor the actual moisture content of the room. Most humidifiers belong to two groups, heat and ultrasonic. The first group simply heats water from a resevoir and allows the steam/vapor to enter the room. The second uses ultrasonic motion to disturb the water from the liquid into the atmosphere, without greatly affecting the temperature.

Most of these are meant to be temporary and mostly intended for those ill with respiratory infections or similar (unless they are part of a central heat/air system).

A better solution would be to identify the reason your room is cold, rather than run a space heater. These are notorious for causing fires, drying out the air, etc.

Any time the humidity starts to creep above 50% and/or a mist/vapor is deposited/concentrated there is a chance for mold/mildew.

Electronics generally do not like any form of moisture, but again, so long as you keep the humidity under 50% and prevent any misting or precipitation, there should not be any issues.

Prior to getting a humidifier or putting out a bowl of water anywhere, I would purchase an inexpensive humidistat to try and figure out what the moisture level is. Watch it for a day or so, then decide how to proceed.

Also, please be safe with your space heater. Many a desk, office and home have been lost to these things.


Yes, this can be renewed over time with sanding etc.  I am unsure of how much of the stain you can remove by sanding (it will definitely soak into the wood and remain visible longer than polyurethane).  I've removed loads of lacquer and polyurethane for refinishing wood, but have yet to try removing stain.
Yes, you can fill old screw holes by drilling them out and gluing a dowel rod into the hole (use a good wood glue for this, my preference is Tightbond).  This is probably as good of a fill as you can get.  Sand the dowel down until even with the desk.
Regarding tools, that really depends on what how you want to build this and how good you want it to look.  Are you using rough-cut wood, or something that is already pre-sanded and ready to go (something you buy at the big-box stores)?  If you start from rough-cut then you really need a joiner, planer, good table saw, possibly a router, and ideally a drum sander.  That's unrealistic for a single project.
On the other hand, if you're going to buy a solid piece of oak that is already cut and joined (e.g. something that is already 4' x 6') and you don't really care how it looks then you just need something to cut it (a circular saw or even a hand saw).
The point I'm getting to with the tools is that we need more information regarding how you plan to build this before we can help you build it (this probably fits better under woodworking than home improvement anyway).  How you plan to build this will dictate what tools you need to do the job.  Best of luck, this might be a fun project!


hanging multiple picture frames of different sizes in line and with equal spacing

Forget the sawtooths. Buy some picture wire and small screws. I like short #6 panheads for most pictures. Maybe #8 for large pictures.
Attach the screws about 1/3 from the top on each side. Drill pilot holes so you don't split the wood. Don't screw them all the way in, leave room to wrap the wire.
Attach the picture wire so the hook will be inside the frame recess. Wrap around each screw and twist the wire on itself.
Buy or make a picture hanging tool. To make one, start with a stick about a foot long. Put a hook on one end and a cabinet knob on the other end. You can substitute many things for the knob, you just need something that will allow you to hold the stick while the picture is attached. The hook will be down and the knob will be up. Measure up 8 inches from the hook and put a mark.
https://www.amazon.com/Picture-Hanging-Level-Hanger-Yellow/dp/B083J75P7F
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/picture-hanging-tips/ (see tip number 4)
Hang the picture on the tool and position it on the wall. Put a small mark on the wall at the mark on the stick.
Measure 8 inches down from the mark on the wall and nail in the hook to the wall.


Is it possible to make an "energy harvester" that drains old batteries?

Is this possible? Of course it is. But is it practical? Not at all.
The comparison is not to the cost of batteries. Batteries are expensive. The comparison has to be to the cost of electricity. Using some very rough numbers:
Cost of electricity per kWh: US average is around 13 cents. Let's round up a bit to make the math simple and call it 20 cents per kWh.
How much does power does a battery hold? That varies a lot, depending on size. A few examples:

LR20 = "D" = 2.5 Wh (that's Wh, not kWh) - 27 Wh
A typical 12V car battery = 48 Amp-hours = 576 Wh
A large 12V car (or marine) battery = 100 Amp-hours = 1,200 Wh
A large Tesla battery pack = 100 kWh

Let's assume that each battery starts out filled to 50% capacity (unlikely), and that the magic energy harvester can get every last drop of electricity out of the battery (pretty much impossible) and can do that with 100% perfect efficiency (also impossible). The $ value is:

LR20 = "D" = 0.0135 x 0.2 = $ 0.003 (less than a penny)
A typical 12V car battery = 0.288 x 0.2 = $ 0.058 (less than a dime)
A large 12V car battery = 0.6 x 0.2 = $ 0.12 (less than a quarter)
A large Tesla battery pack = 50 x 0.2 = $ 10.00

In the case of the small batteries, toss 'em (in an environmentally friendly way - there are plenty of commercial and government locations that accept used batteries for recycling).
In the case of the large batteries - the safety precautions needed to properly process the batteries will likely cost far more than the potential value of the stored electricity.
In general, subject to local laws, you can usually toss small batteries, especially non-rechargeable batteries (e.g., alkaline). However, if you do that, be extra careful with 9V batteries. 9V batteries have a potentially dangerous design flaw - the + and - terminals are right next to each other. If you take a 9V battery, even mostly dead, and short circuit the terminals, you can start a fire. With most other battery types the danger is incredibly small. But a 9V battery tossed in a trash bag that landed on a piece of aluminum foil or other conductive material could actually start a fire. A piece of electrical tape across the terminals before tossing the battery eliminates the danger. Video about 9-volt batteries.


How to fix a racked/sagging exterior wood entry door?

The quick fix is to install a diagonal cable/turnbuckle assembly from the swinging lower corner (where the vertical lock stile meets the lower cross-rail) up to the opposite corner (where the hinge stile meets the top cross-rail) and tighten the turnbuckle until the door is more square.

The other fix it to rebuild the door and tighten, glue up and clamp all of the stile to rail joints.


Do new Air conditioning units require new pads?

If the existing pad is large enough and in good shape it should be fine. The only time I put something around the condenser (outside unit) is if there are dogs, dogs love to pee on these and the urine destroys the fins fairly quickly reducing the efficiency and causing leaks in extreme cases.


Better method for installing in-window air conditioner?

Take two pieces of 1/2" plywood, that have been cut to fit the width of the window and are 1-1/2"-2" taller than the A/C unit.

Cut out the outline of the A/C unit from the center of the plywood pcs. so that you've got a "collar" that can be slid down, like a yoke, or otherwise fit around the A/C unit.

Cut out "windows", in both pieces of plywood, on either side of the area where the A/C unit will be; maintaining at least 1" between the window jamb and the area the A/C unit will be and these "window" cutouts (so the plywood won't break).  At this point, both pieces of plywood should be identical where the cutouts were made.

Cut two pieces of Lexan (or similar) that is 3/4"+ larger than the "window" cutouts in the plywood (another reason to leave a 1" space between areas cut-out).  Glue (with something that isn't too permanent) into place and sandwich between the two pieces of plywood using carriage bolts to secure the plywood together.  Or, glue, if you're confident all is lining up perfectly and will fit properly.

Using (black) foam pipe insulation, wrap the plywood edges and staple into place (staples on the side that will be outside...to prevent water from getting inside the tubing); including the edges that will abut the A/C unit. And give it a trial fitting around the A/C unit that is already in the window, to be sure the pipe insulation compresses enough for a proper fit.  Shave the plywood where it's too tight a fit.

Note: a thin (half-width) strip of duct tape along the seam of the pipe insulation and plywood cutout will create a sort of "drip edge" or seal to divert rain water better than the staples alone.

Note: if the A/C unit tapers or has indentations at the bottom; such that the plywood would leave gaps if slide down like a yoke, first try cutting the shape of the A/C unit so it will slide into the plywood frame.  If this won't work fitted pieces of insulation board (or piggy-backed pipe insulation), duct taped into position, will do (these will be what gets replaced each year).


How to fix a (bathroom) door that keeps swinging closed?

You described two problems. One, the door not latching closed easily; two, the door swinging closed by itself. These may or may not be related. ...

1) If the latch and latch hole in the frame do not line up horizontally, then you may need to adjust the position of the latch hole and/or file the hole in the metal latch guide to enlarge it slightly. A Dremmel or similar tool is very handy for this repair.

2) If the latch and latch hole in the frame do not line up vertically, then the two problems can likely be fixed with shims behind the middle and the upper or lower hinges, depending on whether the door latch needs to move up or down.

2a) If you shim to where the latch works but the door is still moving by itself you can put a hammer to the hinge pins to give them a slight bend - they can handle a pretty good blow and the bend is barely noticeable. This will put a small amount of resistance in the hinges to keep the door open.


How to taper a flat roof for a slight fall

It goes without saying that the full weight of the roof bears on the firring strips, and they are far too thin (in places) to carry that weight across any gap. They can only run along and atop joists.

You do not want a roof to puddle or otherwise impound or store water.  The slope of the "flat" roof must be steep enough to assure this doesn't happen, even with the normal build tolerances and settling which will occur. With that in mind...

Close your eyes and imagine your perfect roof line.  Now imagine the existing joists are tall enough to reach your perfect roof line.  That gap is what you need to fill with firring strips.   I would not worry about the crosswise slope of the firring strips, that won't matter much.  Just get the longitudal slope correct.

And each firring strip will be custom.  That's how it is.

How on earth do you lay that out?  Computers are no help.  Computers only help you automate what you already know how to do.  They don't solve problems for you.  So close Google Sketchup and grab a piece of graph paper.  Old-school! Let's revisit how you slope a roof the simple way: suppose our code requires 2 in 100 slope.

OK, so we want to fold the roof so it tends (tends!) to dump in a corner.  It's not as simple as simply having two 2% planes intersect, because the intersection will be less than 2% (whoops).  But let's divide and conquer.  To make sure we keep our Code required 2/100 slope, let's strike out at the diagonal first.  A 45 degree diagonal is 1.414 times longer (Pythagorean theorem) so at 2% rise and 100 square, we must rise 2.88 on the diagonal (3 is good).  So let's strike that first.

The rest of the roof needs the same minimum slope.

Next, since the roof is basically two planes intersecting, we are able to interpolate (fill in gap numbers) within each plane.  That is a matter of 0 x 6 y 12 z "fill in the missing numbers".  Don't interpolate across a plane boundary.

The math gets a little more complicated if you're not on 45 degree angles.  You may need to roll out Pythagorus's theorem again.

Now follow the lines of the joists. That reveals the shape your firring strips must be.  It's funny, even though this started complicated, it ended simple.  That happens.  You can do any design or complexity of roof this way.  The key is knowing where your planes are, so you know where to transition.

It's up to you whether you cut the firring strips custom, or composite them out of pre-made layers (e.g. a 3% taper on top of a piece 6 thick).

From your roof and your materials, you will have to figure out whether to try to bend your plywood/OSB around the bend(s), or cut.  If you cut, consider reinforcing it so you don't have weak edges unsupported.


15A breaker, 14/2 is fine. Likely would be fine the whole way, but 12/2 is also fine, perhaps someone was overly concerned with voltage drop. Voltage drop is much less of an issue if you are using modern lightbulbs that draw much less power. If you love paying the power company to run your big-ol incandescent bulbs, voltage drop would be SLIGHTLY less with 12Ga than with 14Ga over that sort of distance.
So, if you had 1,440W of lights (12A, as much as you should have on a 15A lighting circuit since lights are a continuous load) all at the far end of one 65 foot cable, in the 14Ga case you have 115.9 Volts and in the 12Ga case you have 117.4 Volts, assuming you started with 120V at the breaker. A volt and a half difference - pretty much irrelevant.
In the actual case you probably have of smaller lighting loads supplied by different cables carrying less current, the differences would be even less.


How to supply 12 volt DC to all the windows in a new house build

You just answered your own question, “how do I splice 30 connections” / “breaker box for DC”.  However only one breaker box/service panel/load center on the market is capable of supporting DC, and that is Square D’s “QO” type (the one with the 3/4” breakers; NOT the cheapie Homeline!)
The trick is voltage drop.  The much lower voltage is also much more sensitive to resistance loss through the wires. That forces you into larger wires.  The good news is, economics of scale make #12 or #14 wire intended for AC mains barely more expensive than the #18 or #22 one normally associates with low voltage DC.  There’s no substitute for figuring out your current draws and doing the load calculations based on your distance. This must be done.
Note that 24-volt systems are 4 times better for voltage drop. Crunch the numbers and you’ll see.  If it’s feasible to go 24V, consider it.
A shame to only use it for blinds
12V or 24V DC systems can be an incredibly verstaile addition to a home, and can even allow it to weather long power outages with high functionality, much moreso if the house is smartly designed around that idea.
For instance, a variety of LED lighting is made for 12/24V, including the popular LED strips, which dim very effectively, and even permit RGB color.  Motion sensors are cheaper in 12/24V.
If you make this auxiliary lighting, you could have it during power outages by adding a battery to the system.  Many Internet modems/routers work on 12V, as do many TVs, and a typical Roku box or other smart-box attachment will also like 12V power.  So there you are watching Netflix in the power outage.
12/24V house-sized refrigerators aren’t worth buying, but you can run an inverter for the times the fridge needs to run.
The batteries need to be sized for the run-time you want to have, but them with some solar panels to top them up can be a lot cheaper than an installed generator system with changeover switch, yadayada.  Heck a modest battery system is cheaper than those hokey 10-circuit switches alone.
Or very small generator can be used simply to top up the batteries during period of low sun (or for that matter, your car’s alternator).
It could build out into quite a system if you wanted to.


Is it okay to install a sediment filter backward in a reverse osmosis system?

It's hard to say conclusively without knowing what brand or type filter it is, but chances are it's just a fine screen. The concern would be that the cavity intended to collect sediment may not exist on the downstream side. If that's the case it will clog sooner. Otherwise it should serve the function just fine.

Post brand and model information or a photo in your question if you'd like more specific advice.


Improve weatherworn, stained rubber saddle on outdoor playground toy

Did you try using some Armor All or other silicone based treatment, typically sold to dress up tires and car dashboards? It will eventually rub off, but the silicone is relatively inert and harmless. There is a petroleum based vehicle suspension with it to make it spray-able that will evaporate relatively fast, so just keep the kids off of it for an hour or so. You will also have to re-apply it periodically.


The pushbutton is an N.O. (normally open) switch.  When you press it, the circuit is closed and the opener starts its cycle.  It's easy to add a 2nd pushbutton by wiring it in PARALLEL to the first one.  That way EITHER one, acting alone can control the door.

For a diagram of this see the 'Switches in Parallel' diagram at:

Switches In Parallel


Tool to help precision drill 4 holes in a wall?

I make a template with a piece of paper or cardboard (like the box the item came in).  This makes drilling holes in a precise pattern a bit easier.  In some situations, you might transfer the pattern from your paper onto the wall using pencil / marker / spray-paint.
For the size mirror you're talking about, you might want to read about another mounting option, called a French cleat.  It involves attaching a piece of wood to the wall, and another to the item being hung up.  The two pieces fit together with a slant.  This not only makes it easier to hang the item, but also, to remove it later if you need to paint or otherwise access the wall behind it.


Could I shut off the refrigerator for awhile?

Block the door open!

The reason is the cold refrigerator and freezer will tend to collect water inside.

It has to do with relative humidity - air holds water.  Warm air can hold more water... when that warm air gets inside the fridge (when you open the door), it cools and can no longer hold the water that is in it. This causes condensation within the fridge. The condensation occurs anywhere air can get to, which is many places you can't see, like the backsides of all those panels.

When you unplug a fridge, it warms. That water evaporates, humidity goes to 100% inside, and it becomes a mold and mildew factory.  Open it up 3 days later and the entire inside will be horribly splotched with mold - and it will be on the backsides too.  It's impossible to clean it without taking the fridge all apart, and you can't get it all.

We had a genius "watt miser" who went around the lodge unplugging unused fridges.  He did this no less than 3 times and wrecked the interior the fridge in every case.  That's why we have a procedure now.

Now if you can block the door open, air will circulate in and out of the fridge, preventing 100% humidity from happening inside the fridge.  People say you can close it after a few days, it's up to you whether to chance that.  I use something (possibly taped in place) to force it to stay open 1/2" or so.


What is this circuit board and how to I replace it?

Of course it is impossible to tell for sure without looking at the circuit in more detail but it looks like a 120V AC to low voltage DC power supply.
A way to troubleshoot it would be the following:

look up the voltage rating on the lights. Using a multimeter, check if this voltage is present at the output of the board. If it is, the problem is with the lights/contacts, etc.
check for a blown fuse on the board (if present). If you find a blown fuse, get a couple of new ones and replace it. It might have been blown in some sort of a fluke but if it keeps breaking there is a problem with a circuit. If no fuse:
Switch the meter to AC Voltage measurement and measure the output of the transformer (large part with green core). If there is no voltage, the transformer is bad. If there is, you would have to redraw the schematic and troubleshoot every component (caps are usually the suspect). At this point it might be cheaper to get a new unit.

As with any high voltage board be very careful when troubleshooting a powered board!

PS: I believe Monso is wrong here - the voltages after step down transformer are typically 5-24 V which is not enough to cause harm (after the board is powered down).


How do I remove excess wood stain that dried before I could wipe it off?

The Minwax website says to apply another coat of stain on top of that and then once it softens
up the dried stain just wipe it off like you normally would. I'm currently having the exact same problem. But I think this makes sense so thats what I'm going to try.


What could be wrong with my air conditioner?

Besides checking the fuses/breakers, the fan, and any connections on the controller, there's not a lot of user serviceable parts on an HVAC system. This is because the refrigerant lines require specialized equipment to test for refrigerant levels, a license to buy more refrigerant, and even more equipment to remove the refrigerant so you can work on the compressor.

When the outside unit doesn't turn on, checking the refrigerant is typically the first step because there's a safety switch in the system that prevents the compressor from turning on without enough pressure in the lines. Without that, the compressor would turn on and burn itself out since the refrigerant also includes the lubricant for the compressor.

Do what you can to get the warranty coverage from the manufacturer, but realize that this is a situation that will almost certainly require a professional to come out and repair for you.


How do I determine if adding an air conditioner will overload a circuit?

The only way to know what load a device draws is to put the device in to service and measure the load. The rating on the back is interesting, but many factors affect actual loads. An easy way to measure real loads is with a Kill-A-Watt.

Expect breakers to trip at 80% of rating, under continuous load. So 12A in your case.


I'm not familiar with that particular bar, so can't tell you anything about that spot. However, if you intend to drill anywhere on the bar a normal drill bit is not only going to fail, it's going to get damaged trying.

If a drill is your only option you need to get a masonry bit and regrind the point to about the same shape and angle as a regular bit. Use an Aluminium Oxide wheel for that. Drill at a slow speed without applying too much force, preferable using plenty of cutting oil because otherwise the tip can easily get hot enough to melt the brazing.

An alternative to drilling is to use a carbide burr in a pencil grinder.


I use de solve it it is good stuff, I have not had it affect any surface I have used it on but I am usually working on removing adhesive from painted metal.

I would try an area out of site first and rub a little to see if it affects the paint, it will definitely help clean the adhesive off but the only way to know for sure on your paint is to try it in a area that would not be noticed.


Which flat roofing system requires the least maintenance?

I am not an expert in this type of roofing, I do however have some questions and recommendations that may help you get the right answers.

First the questions.  Is this roof drained with an internal system or scuppers along the edges? How large (square footage) is this roof?  What part of the country are you in? Have you consulted an industrial/commercial roofing specialist?

Here in the north country, most flat roofs on larger buildings are treated in a bonded/welded rubber, neoprene membrane. All the edges, sidewalls, plumbing vents, chimneys etc must be properly flashed and sealed with bitchethane and bonded to the flat covering. It is also very important to know that a flat roof is actually not perfectly flat. They must have some designed pitch to a drain point/s. Any area that allows standing water is potential source for leaks. Proper drainage is essential and will prevent the majority of future leaks.

Since access to the roof seems to be an issue for you and the contractors you have consulted so far, consider the following:

Only deal with a contractor that owns or regularly uses a bucket truck or man-lift and is used to working on taller buildings, and has the proper safety equipment and trained personnel to safely handle the job and materials.

Look at options to install a dog house access  on the roof. If there is no common area where one can be installed, explore the possibilities of an external attached caged ladder. Some method of easy access will allow safe, quick inspection of the roof.

Solving your problem should be fairly evident to a competent industrial/commercial roofing contractor. You may not like the answers you get, or the costs to fix the situation, but if you do it right this time, you will save money in the long run, minimize potential interior damage, and protect the value of your property.    Good luck.


Are there tools available to facilitate stripping of oak baseboards for refinishing?

I have had good luck using CitriStrip.  It's environmentally friendly and probably safe for your expecting wife.   Get the majority of the work done with CitriStrip and then light sanding. It takes some time to do it's work, but it's surprisingly effective.  Smells like oranges!   If you are interested in this approach I can post additional tips and hints using this.


Hand build wood transition strip two different height floors

Yes, you can make a transition strip from wood. Without a more detailed picture and look into the area affected, it's hard to offer much more of an idea - cut wood to fit hole, mark floor level on each side, cut/plane/trim/rasp/beltsand to the marked line on each side, stain, fail to match the flooring color and either "not quite match" or go for "deliberately accentuate it since it won't match anyway." Not matching may reduce the tripping hazard (But I can't tell how much elevation difference from that picture, either)
Depending on the flooring material, you might be able to attach a chunk to a wood strip cut lower by the thickness of the floor for a better match.


How can I cut through brick to add a window?

I won’t say I'm an expert; I've worked with someone doing something similar in the past and may at least give you some guidance.

Personally, I would use a concrete saw (larger blade than an angle grinder) and/or a chisel to cut the opening. Make sure you have help as you DO NOT want to drop the removed section(s). You can use these bricks later (see below).

Don't forget the header. I know I'm using the wrong term, but I'm referring to the steel plate that holds up the brick over the window.

I would then use a chisel to remove the halved bricks and either turn them around or replace them with good ones from the removed section.

I would also recommend that you at least talk with a mason. They may be able to replicate the detail work around the window with the bricks from the removed section.


Does the smell of paint linger or penetrate other materials?

No - the smell of new paint fades away over time.  It won't stick to clothes any longer than it emanates from the painted surface.

I hope you're using latex paint and not oil - as the smell fades away much faster.


How to repaint lacquered baseboard, trim, doors and stair rail with latex paint

Spraying would probably give the most "flat, stroke-free" finish, but requires special tools and materials and a considerable amount of skill/experience for success.

With brushes (I omit rollers for a reason as I never use a roller on trim, baseboards, doors, stair rails, spindles) you can probably get acceptable results with skills you already possess to some degree. The key things are:

preparation- thoroughly de-gloss and clean the existing surface of all dust. Mask off and tarp over adjacent areas in case of drips/spills.
brushes- you can get a smooth stroke-free finish if you commit to using only the very best quality brushes. Yes they are expensive, yes it will be worth it (clean them religiously and store them properly and they will last for years).
paint- use quality paint.
technique- don't be stingy with the paint and always maintain a wet edge. Start with less conspicuous areas and your skills will be honed by the time you get to the important stuff.
patience- the final appearance is directly proportional to the time you spend making it perfect.


Replacing receptacle wallplate with nightlight, but terminals are not exposed

This is a cheap outlet that only uses backstabs for connections, no screw terminals. You will need to replace the outlet with one that has screws.
Turn off the power and unscrew the outlet and pull it out of the box. Get a small screwdriver and insert it in the slots in the back of the outlet by each wire while pulling at the wire. The wires should come out. Shepard hook the wires and screw them into the new outlet, black wires to brass screws and white wires to silver screws. You can also pigtail the wires if you have some extra wire and some wire nuts.


Where could the water be coming from found in this hole my dogs dug?

My guess is this is just normal groundwater, either a natural spring or a high water table at that spot. (Other possibilities would be a leak, rainwater, or proximity to a septic system field.)

The water table height may be higher or lower depending on the season and amount of rain / snow. The water table may well be higher than the lake surface... they do not need to be the same height. The water table may be very irregular, depending on the underground position of rock, different types of soil, sources of water, etc, so just because there was no water somewhere else on your property doesn't preclude the possibility.

(The presence of water for only a brief time after digging is interesting, and I can't easily explain it. It's possible that by disturbing the soil your dogs were compacting it a bit, forcing water out, much like squeezing a wet sponge. This can be a problem in large-scale soil compaction projects, like preparing a lot for a new foundation. I would be surprised if dogs could have the same effect, but maybe if you have soft soil with a high water content it's possible.)