Why does my humidifier not come on when heat is on?

I found the problem while getting the wiring diagram. I'm posting my answer in case someone else comes across a similar problem.
Why it didn't work right
The humidifier was wired into the EAC terminal. This terminal only becomes active over a certain RPM and so the humidifier was only coming on when activating the fan manually, or when the heat hits stage 2. During testing the heat didn't hit stage two, so I didn't realize this.
Where it should be connected
I solved it by wiring the humidifier through the appropriate humidifier terminals on the circuit board. They were located immediately next to the EAC, and they looked the same, but the HVAC installation instructions pointed out that (in contrast to the EAC terminals) these are "dry contacts". So it didn't work just switching over switching the single wire that was in the EAC terminal.
"Dry contacts"
I was unfamiliar with "dry contacts" and online descriptions were confusing to me. As far as I understand it now, it basically means it's not a hot/neutral pair of terminals. It helped me to simply think of it as an on/off switch operated by the circuit board, which is why I had to split one of the wires to the humidifier and insert the terminals in series.
My installation manual's wiring diagram

Now it's working the way I want to: the humidistat gets voltage whenever the heat and the fan are on.


Could be a voltage issue, but you'd notice it in other places as well if it was.

Your ONLY recourse is to call the landlord and have them have someone check it. You CANNOT and should not do ANY electrical work in a place that you are renting.


It looks like the jamb is pulling away from the jamb extension at the top of the door.
I don't think this is water related.  You have a decent overhang and you have a metal jamb flashing header.
If I had to guess I'd say your jamb wasn't secured at the top and someone kicked/bumped/rammed it and the jamb was pushed inside displacing the interior trim and detaching from the weakly attached jamb extension.


How can I improve the insulation in the lower attic space?

I own a cape with two finished bedrooms upstairs. We have knee-walls like you, as well as a cap space above the rooms (your upper attic).

We had both the crawl spaces (lower attic) and cap insulated. At the time, we were told there are two types of attic insulation: hot roof and cold roof. In a hot roof, the insulation is attached against the roof between the rafters and the air in the attic is considered warm. On a cold roof, the floor of the attic is insulated, making a warm ceiling, and ventilation and circulation occur in the attic itself (air comes in through the soffit and rises to a ridge vent or other ventilation device).

Ventilation is important for your attic and roof, so you'll want to be careful what you block up.

In my house, we used blow in insulation on the floor of the cap, and we used batting and foam board in the crawl space. You'll want to setup a ripping station outside, and you'll cut the foam board into lengths that fir through your crawlspace door. You carry them in in pieces, nail them to the rafters with special nails, and then use insulating/foil tape to seal the seams.


What could cause the garage door overhead light to not stay on while the door is opening?

The doorbell switch is not equivalent to the garage door switch it replaced, in some manner that upsets the opener.

If your unasked question is "how to make the light stay on when the door is opening" you need to remove the doorbell switch and replace it with a garage door switch compatible with your opener.


AC "Dirty Sock Syndrome" smell went away, is it actually fine?

It is a simple case of dirt in your evaporator getting wet.
You now know more than either of the idiots you had come out and check your system. This should have been done on the first call!!!
You can go to most home stores and get aerosol cans of coil cleaner to spray on the coils (the ones inside close to the air handler. The coil usually has a access panel just for this reason.
While you are at the store pick up some condensate pan sanitizer tablets or strips to put in the pan these also help to prevent mold in the pan.
The smell comes from dust and mold collecting on the coils and fins. When the ac is running these get cold and condense moisture out of the air , dirt, mold and water with air blowing over it. Very commonly said to smell like dirty socks. Search this site and you will find a few additional references.
Get new HVAC guys and if you decide to fix it and have success call the company and complain then the BBB as this is really simple.


Ed Beal is right. Assuming something like #10 or #12 screws (as opposed to 3/8" lag screws, for example), even if they collide the second will merely glance off the first. It's not an issue.

To avoid the situation altogether, simply offset by 1/4" or so.


You can do it a bit at a time.
Of course, any bits that are leaking that you don't replace will continue to leak until you replace them.
You can (or could when I was shopping, it was some years back) beat the price of a manifold with a handful of Tees and Valves. Pex does not require the use of a manifold, though the idea of using individual home runs of relatively inexpensive tubing rather than branch lines  splitting up to feed various fixtures may still have merit.
Where possible, try to treat PEX as PEX, not as rigid pipe. For very tight bends where you have no other way, you might need an elbow. Anywhere you have space, just bend the tube - it's cheaper and it flows better and it's one less spot to leak. Know and respect the minimum bend radius of the tubing you use (look up the manufacturer's specifications.)
In my local area, the piping within 3 (linear pipe) feet of the water heater has to be metallic (one of the changes they make to the IPC code which they base the local code off of.) You may not have that or a similar requirement - if you do, and if your water is eating copper, you might want to use stainless steel, which seems to be easy and affordable on the internet but gets the blank stare response at the hardware store. I would not suggest using galvanized iron pipe, based on every galvanized iron water pipe I have ever disassembled.


How do I deal with a joist in the way of where I need to run a pipe?

My answer is to cut your two inch hole as close to your drywall as possible.  In the picture you went right down the middle and barely hit the joist.  Methinks that you could drill right along the side and have to barely notch out the joist below.  Might not even have to notch all the way through it.  No reason for vac lines to have to be centered in your wall.  Use the notch guidelines I found to help further.

Notches in floor joists may occur in the top or bottom of the member but may not be located in the middle third of the span.
A notch may not exceed one-sixth of the depth of the joist except at the very end where it may be one-fourth of the joist depth.
The length of joist notches cannot exceed one-third of the depth of the member.
Holes bored in joists must not be larger than one-third the depth of the joists.
Holes cannot be located within two inches of the top or bottom edge of the member, or to any other hole located in the member.
Holes cannot be located within 2" of any notch.

Below is a helpful chart that provides actual notch and hole size limitations for 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12 joists. It should be noted that limitations on the allowable notching and boring of wood joist are meant to retain the structural and functional integrity of the member.


Trying to wire 240 disconnect panel from 3 wire from main panel to 3 wire spa (2 hots and ground on both sides)

When hooking up hot tubs, don't fool around

It can hurt people.  It can also ruin hot tubs.

The lack of neutral at the hot tub box might be a problem

Your application doesn't need neutral at all.  (According to what you've said).

However, a couple weeks ago, we had a question about using American GFCI breakers in the Philippines, where some houses are wired exactly like your circuit there: two hots, no neutral, and a ground, theoretically in the middle between the two hots.   It turns out that some GFCI breakers actually need neutral on their input side - to power the GFCI mechanism itself.

It would not be legal in the US to "bootleg" that input neutral wire to the ground.  Bootlegging also wreaks havoc on any GFCIs that would be upstream, not that you would need any. That may be why TPE is asking about your panel breaker.  In his case, we counseled him to install a tiny autotransformer to create neutral from the two hots.  It worked.

Honestly, if it were me, I would take back that GFCI spa panel you bought, buy the correct Siemens GFCI 2-pole breaker for your main panel, and then get a simple/cheap non-GFCI subpanel or shutoff switch for this location.  That keeps the GFCI in the dry, warm inside, where it will last a lot longer.

But if you can't do that, you could try hooking it up without any neutral connected on the input side.  Maybe the GFCI will function correctly.  It is a spa panel after all, having no neutral on the input side is perfectly foreseeable since spas don't need neutral.  If it still doesn't function correctly, I would go talk to your AHJ, and see if they'll sign off on bootlegging netural just for that GFCI device.


Could using an orifice for the wrong gas type damage a water heater?

Nat gas orifice is significantly larger than propane orifice , so the heaters have been exposed to more heat /flame than design ; that could be a problem. I learned this the hard way;  hooked up a nat gas grill to a propane bottle. On the lowest burner setting flame came out around the space between the top and bottom of the grill. In round numbers the gas molecules take up the same volume ( Ideal gas law) . In the nat gas molecule you have one C and 4 H to burn , in a propane molecule you have three C and eight H to burn. So the nat gas orifice is larger to let more molecules through , it lets the same larger number of propane molecules through producing more heat/flame.


Wiring a light fixture in bathroom attached to a switch and GFCI

When wiring with cable, and the feed is coming to the light, the standard is to feed a single pole with the white wire (the code requires this) and return with the black wire.

If you connect the white wire to the other white wires at the light fixture you create a dead short when the switch is closed this would trip the GFCI if you are downstream from it. Check that the conductors for the switch are not dead shorting the circuit.

A picture or diagram of your particular situation might help if the previous tip doesn't.

Good luck!


How to fit clothing rails into plasterboard to hold adequate weight?

Find your studs (a studfinder can be useful, else you can drill test holes). Mark your studs. Once you find one they should be about 16" or 24" apart from center to center (this is the typical US measure, internationally YMMV).

Mount your clothes rails by drilling your mounting screws into the studs. (make sure your screws are long enough to penetrate your clothes rail, the plaster and into the studs)

From Evil Greebo: "If the studs are too near the front/back of the closet, you can mount a cross brace on the wall of the closet. Firmly connect it to the studs, then attach your closet rails to the cross brace."


Best way to install Emporia Vue Gen2 energy monitor OUTSIDE load center?

The machine and all wiring MUST be inside a Class I wiring methods!
That machine must be inside a NEMA enclosure listed for housing AC mains equipment.  Every part of the system must be inside Class I wiring methods.  You cannot have loosy-goosy wires "merely because you can't figure a better way to install it". No "science projects" allowed in AC mains electrical!  Code or go home.
Given that I'm basically cheap, my view is that the best listed NEMA enclosure is the one you already own - one of the service panels. Power is also conveniently found right there.  Now we must tackle the "problem" of the interconnects.
I say "problem" because it ain't one in my world. 99% of what I do is inside EMT metal conduit, and boy, oh boy! Does that make life easier.
I have plenty of panels in various buildings.  All of them are interconnected with EMT metal conduit.  When they are right next to each other, there are at least 3: One fattie for potential feeder and at least 2 smalls (near top and near bottom) for convenient routing of anything that needs to cross over.
When the panels are right next to each other, this is simply "nipples" (short pipes and fittings) of EMT conduit.  However, the panels need to  be pulled apart by about 1/2" to install these, so it's best done when the 2nd panel is initially installed.  Harder to do after the fact, you can partially detach and  shift one panel if you really want to, but I would just establish a different route.
So my advice is to route EMT conduit between all the panels, if it's not there already.  3/4" EMT is a good compromise between "biggest stuff every box will accept" and "still easy to work with" once you get the hang of it. If you are more comfortable with PVC conduit, that's not a deal-breaker, but I just can't imagine gluing a connection when I could bolt it and easily disassemble it and adjust if I needed to.
Run the CT wires through the conduit. (along with certain other things)
Locate your device in the panel that will result in the least or shortest routing of CT sensors, then run your CT wires through that conduit.
All conduit must be assembled and anchored totally complete before any wires are placed in the conduit. You cannot assemble the conduit around the wires. That means the conduit must be pullable - you must put appropriate sweeps or "conduit bodies" (corners or Tees with access covers) where they'll be needed.  I recommend no more than 90 degrees of sweep between pulling points for ease of installation (honestly 90% of the time I just push my wires through).
The CT wires do not count for 310.15(B)(3)(a) conduit thermal derate. However a power cable to the equipment does count as 1 - you can have 4 if they're all 15-28 amps. 3 if none are over 40A.  Otherwise you need to break out the sharp pencil and do derate calcs.  The CT cables do count for conduit fill calculations, but #18 TFFN is small.
For extending the CT sensors I would use #18 TFFN wire (the stuff used inside fluorescent light fixtures) as it is 600V rated.  However heed manufacturer advice as far as length of the CT cables.
You cannot go smaller than #18 per NEC.
Normally you cannot put data cables inside a power conduit. However these wires are a special case since the entire system, soup to nuts, is contained inside Class I wiring methods. What you cannot do is bring an Ethernet cable out to a wall plate, for instance.
If you want to use cables instead of conduit to extend the CTs, you still have to use Class I rated cables - you can't use thermostat cable or loose individual wires.  The smallest readily available cable will be 14/2 NM-B cable. One cable per CT unless you use 14/2/2 and then you could get 2 CTs per cable. What a bulky, awkward and wasteful way to do that - and no way to twist it either.
An EMT conduit route is simpler, far neater, and will be useful in the future if you want to extend a power circuit.  Again, nothing wrong with CTs in the same conduit as circuits or feeder even, so if you had a mind to a future feeder upgrade, maybe lay conduit big enough for that!
The factory recommends multiple monitors for multiple panels
Honestly, I recommend the same, however I don't see any problems with the conduit method when the panels are near each other.
They report extending 30 feet has been done with no decrease in accuracy. They simply have no info on extending farther than that.


How do I handle ground wires in 2-gang box with circuits coming from separate breaker boxes

Good question, but pause to think: What if all your wiring was in EMT metal conduit? (In which the conduit is the ground).  There'd be no choice to bond the grounds, and thus, it is OK.

This question is even easier since you are working out of a sub-panel, which already has its ground bonded to the main panel; that is, one ground rod for the whole house.  I have a facility where the 120/240v is served out of two main panels, each with its own supply transformer and its own ground.  Circuits from both main panels go into a spiderweb of EMT, and while the neutrals never cross, the EMT certainly does, which means the ground does.  What's more, the EMT is attached to an all steel building via girder clamps that are entirely made of metal. It would be impractical to separate the grounds.  All this to say: If I am allowed to mix grounds, you certainly are.


One of the Commenters says: "it's made to stick bare wire in hole then screw down to clamp wire in place. 18-22 guage wire is about the largest size you can fit."

18-22 Gauge is not rated for lighting circuits.

Also its Momentary, so you would need some Latching relay to keep the circuit on.


What is the minimum width of an egress/entrance door?

Here is a table from the International Building Code (modified for Florida).

Source

According to this the only egress doors that are required to be wider than 32", are Group I Occupancies.

  Institutional (Group I) occupancies include buildings with occupants
  that are under supervised care, live in a controlled environment where
  they’re limited physically by either age or health, or they have
  personal liberties restricted by detention for penal or correctional
  purposes.  Group I-3, which includes prisons, jails and correctional facilities, is further subdivided into “conditions.” However, unlike the
  occupancy subgroups, the 5 conditions are numbered with increasing risk to the higher numbers.

However, building codes can vary from location to location, and can be adapted by state, city, and town.  To be sure what is used in your area, you'll have to contact your local government.

keep in mind that the 32" is the Minimum Clear Opening, so a 32" door may or may not be adequate.

Note:

More information on how to measure egress openings is available in section 1003.2 Measurement of means of egress, in the document linked above.

Here's the section on doorways.

  1003.2 Measurement of means of egress

  1003.2.3 Doorways

  1003.2.3.1 The clear opening at swinging doors shall be measured between the face of the door and the stop, with the door open 90
  degrees.

  1003.2.3.2 There shall be no projections into the required clear opening lower than 34 inches (864 mm) above the floor or ground.
  Projections into the clear opening between 34 inches (864 mm) and 80
  inches (2032 mm) above the floor or ground shall not exceed 4 inches
  (102 mm) measured horizontally. Door stops at the head of the door
  frame are allowed to project into the clear opening according to
  1003.2.5.


How to repair fallen tile near kitchen floor?

To be honest, I'd probably be lazy here, and stick it back on with a thin film of a good commercial adhesive, thinly buttered on the back of the tile. Leave the old adhesive as it is. The old tile will fit perfectly. This is NOT something for superglue, but perhaps for something like liquid nails in a tube. Buy it in your local home center or a decent hardware store.

Use some tape (the handyman's secret weapon is duct tape, so says Red Green) to hold it in place, but any decent adhesive will have enough tack to keep a tile there while it dries.

Really the hardest part to do is to re-grout around the replaced tile. I'd not be at all surprised to find that available in a squeeze tube too. So I checked, and indeed it is, here, for example.


To answer your question , yes it is unsafe. This design is dependent on a human to ensure the main breaker is in the off position when powering the panel from the generator.  Humans make mistakes. Mistakes like this can kill.


Name for a partially-circular metal clasp that fits into an indentation in a tube

The clips that you are referring to are called snap rings in North America.


Mix a bag of 25KG self-leveling concrete with 6L of water?

Lacking a specific brand from your question, I went and looked at

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-ultraplan-self-levelling-compound-grey-25kg/4959f

Which states that it will cover (mixed) 6 square meters at 3mm thick.

I make that 100cm x 600 cm x 0.3 cm or 18,000 cubic centimeters. Last I checked, 1000 CCs was a liter, so you have 6 liters of free space.


Mice that are eating through the boards under kitchen cabinets

Get Professional help.
@TheEvilGreebo is correct. I have my own mice stories which I won't bore you all with. But the bottom line is that a good exterminator can do a combination of:

traps
poisoned bait (they eat and (hopefully) die elsewhere
figure out where/how the mice are getting in and either block them or tell you how to block them

The last item is particularly important. Mice can get in through a surprisingly small hole. It could be you have holes from rotting wood or recent construction and when one mouse gets in and finds food, he tells his friends...
There are plenty of "home remedies" but once you are infested, I highly recommend professional help to get the problem under control. Once it is under control, the home remedies may be sufficient.
Or (seriously) get a cat.


How do weather conditions affect pouring a concrete foundation?

If it's too wet and water starts to accumulate in the foundation, you can end up with weakened concrete.

One of the key metrics for a concrete mix is the free water to cement ratio. If the water content is too low, you struggle to get it to compact properly , resulting in air voids, and weak concrete. If the water content is too high, the water can leave pores in the concrete, which also reduces the strength of the concrete.

If the temperature is low, the hydration reaction slows down. Further, if the temperature is too low, the water can freeze, which means that it is not available to hydrate the cement, again affecting the strength of the concrete.


Yes you can.

You will just need to remove the bolts that are at the bottom of the bowl and then raise the toilet up.  I recommend flushing it first as it'll be lighter.
ALso have a trash bag handy. Although you have flushed the toilet, there's usually still some water in it. I recommend one person lift the toilet up and another person put the bag under the bowl to catch any water that may run out.

Then you'll need to scrap the wax ring off of the pipe in the floor.

Then install a new wax ring in the same location as the previous one. Do not press on it.

Then install your new toilet over the bolts and tighten them.


furnace high limit switch measure 74-96 ohm, is it bad?

The limit switch should show a resistance of very near zero ohms when it is in the closed state. Sometimes your meter may show one or two ohms of resistance due to the meter leads if it has not been calibrated to null out the wire resistance. This would be more noticeable with a digital meter.

Make sure that you test the limit switch with the wiring removed from the switch. Sometimes if you try to measure a switch that is still connected into the circuit you may see an ohms reading that is above zero when the switch contacts are actually open. This reading coming from the attached circuitry. Under such condition you could incorrectly conclude that the switch was faulty by not noting the other state of the switch.


In the Pacific Northwest you do want an exterior vapor barrier we get enough wind driven rain that this is a big deal.
The original insulation sounds like a cellulose type, I have never used on new construction, by 79 fiberglass was the common type for new construction in this area.
I have always used heavy plastic behind my backer so I don’t have any experience with flexstone. as I have always used a membrane behind backer because I don’t want the constant moisture that can penetrate grout and backer or even tile depending on the type a non permeable surface there but still a vapor barrier on the exterior wall. Try to overlap and make sure to go up to the eves so water can not easily get behind it and damage the sheathing.


Voltage drop is caused by the current you are actually pulling, not breaker trip rating.  Many people compute voltage drop based on trip, but that's silly - if you're actually pulling breaker trip current, you've got other problems.   And many people consider 3% a hard limit (a bit silly since the only number Code speaks of is 8%, but I think they are worried about installations where there might be three such drops consecutively).

Anyway, if one were being silly like that, you are just within limits on that cable.

Otherwise, you have loads of headroom and shouldn't give it any further thoght.

You cannot up-breaker to 30A because you have 15A or 20A outlets on that cable, and those need 20A breaker protection.  However, if you fit a subpanel in this location with 15-20A breakers for the outlets,  you can then re-breaker the supply to 30A.  Assuming 24A draw (the sensible max), you would have 0-5.25% voltage drop, which is concerning, but not serious.

If you are willing to fit a 10KVA transformer at the outbuilding, the circuit can deliver 7200W of 120/240V split-phase at 0-3.25% drop. That is 60A@120V or 30A@240V.  Nobody's gonna worry about 3.25%.

If you fit two commonly available 15KVA transformers, you could deliver 14,400 watts, or double the above, at 0-1.64% drop  With two less-commonly-available 20KVA transformers, you could deliver 18,000 watts at 0-1.31% drop. This is most of a standard 100A (24KW) house service.


Can a curved shed roof design use corrugated metal roof panels lengthwise horizontally?

Make one side wall slightly lower than the other. Water will flow off the low side.


Best insulation system below a wood floor exposed to nature

You can use foam boards (XPS or EPS). Cut these to the appropriate width, place in the joist bays, glue/screw as needed and fill in the gaps with canned spray foam. Those are fairly resistant to exposure within a crawlspace.

Consider sealing off access into the crawlspace if possible. You'll never keep all the insects out, but covering access holes with chicken wire or mesh will help keep raccoon or other scratching/digging animals out.


What tool should I use to cut metal roofing?

I used to use a 7 1/4" metal cutting wheel on a circular saw. Works good, but wheel wears down fairly fast.  There are also some good shear attachments that mount on drills.  I'd advise you to make the cuts on the end going to the top, not the exposed bottom. Definitely have some spray paint or primer to treat the cut end, because it will rust. If you put the cut ends at the top under your ridge cap, you will be fine.  The other alternative is to buy your panels cut to length before they land on the job. Several manufactures cut to order such as Everlast Metal Roofing.


How to remove masking tape residue from linoleum?

What you seek is a non polar organic solvent.  WD-40 is a good stand in, but even better would be xylenes which are usually available at hardware stores (that's basically what goof off is).  Really though, any non-polar solvent will work, mineral spirits, turpentine, brake cleaner, gasoline, diesel, tiki touch fuel, ether, THF, or melted lard.  The more volatile the solvent the less residue it will leave and the less child/pregnancy-friendly it is.  Brake cleaner would be very volatile and easy to clean up and is very awful to breathe.    Lard would be at the opposite end.

Polar solvent, like alcohol, won't work as well.

As others have said, be sure to test that it won't damage the floor.


Which way to unscrew the behind part of the v pipe?

You can often determine the whether the threading is right or left handed by looking closely at the first thread between the edge of the fitting. Your picture is not clear enough to tell this from the photo but this shows where to look.

That said it is a pretty good guess that you would turn as shown below to remove. This is the conventional direction for the most often used right hand threads.


What kind of paint should be used on old plaster and lathe walls?

On a home this old there will be layers of oil based paint and possibly additional layers of Latex paint. The biggest concern is good prep work (cleaning removing loose material) and a Quality paint. I have used both oil and latex on Victorian era homes with excellent results. It is really an opinion question today.


Furnace + boiler in a closet with top open to the attic

You need to make sure they can get enough makeup air for combustion, so that they don't backdraft, but yes, you can and should cover the top, that is absolutely awful for any sort of energy efficiency.


How can I straighten out a bent threaded rod?

I've been able to manually straighten Acme leadscrew stock in the past by bending it down against a rigid surface, and checking its straightness by rolling it along a piece of scrap window glass (guaranteed to be flat). Rinse and repeat until you either bend it to within an acceptable tolerance, or you ruin it and have to buy a new one--which in this case is no big deal, since the one you've already got is already useless for your project.


What sort of device plugs in to this outlet?

That appears to be a NEMA-6 30 receptacle. According to the National Electric Code, it must be used only for a 30 amp circuit. Look for a 30 amp, 240 volt circuit breaker in you box. Unless you find another receptacle like that in the house that is connected to the same breaker, the entire 30 amps is available for use by whatever is plugged in there.


What kind of siding and install type is this?

Your siding is shiplap, you can see that the grain pattern continues from the face of the board onto the lapped edge. Normally the boards are milled so that the faces fit close together, so it could be called "lap and gap" for clarity. I've no idea if that's a regional term or not.

If it had actually been made of two layers it would be board and batten, which may offer you some visually similar style products in your search. Traditionally though the batts are much smaller than the boards, and the siding is installed vertically to shed water.


How do I replace a 3-way switch on 2-wire cable with a programmable timer switch?

You'll have to purchase a timer that is specifically designed to work as a 3-way switch. Or you'll have to rewire the other 3-way switch in such a way that it will no longer control anything.

Since I can't see the wiring at the second switch, I'm guessing the wiring currently looks something like this...

Which is sketchy, since there's no grounded (neutral) conductor running with the travelers. It's not clear where the grounded (neutral) conductor that the light is connected to comes from, so you'll want to look into that.

To get this timer working, you'll have to bypass the other 3-way switch like this.

Again, I don't know what the whole circuit looks like, since you've only offered a partial look. So I'm guessing at the wiring when it comes to the second switch.


Blomberg refrigerator making intermittent loud knocking sounds coming from the ice maker

Icemakers work by freezing the ice, then thawing the outside, rotating the ice out of the tray, and eventually dumping it in the bucket.

If the ice fails to release from the tray, the gears will make loud gridnging noise until you remove the ice from the tray.

Easiest way I've found to do this is to run a hair dryer pointed at the icemaker until the ice releases.  Longer term, it seems that something is out of adjustment on your icemaker.  You can also shut it off by pushing the bail up.


If you can, I would recommend cutting down the joint with a thin bandsaw blade & then machining both pieces with a jointer to get the super tight fit that you really should have between your boards.  The reason I suggest this is that cutting boards can give up particles when sliced/chopped on that would end up on the food that is processed on the cutting board (especially meat)--which I doubt you or anyone else would want to eat, due to the toxicity of adhesives.

If, on the other hand, you can find a non-toxic bonding adhesive then the above suggestion could be avoided.

hth
best regards!


Do I need a 3 wire cable between light fixtures?

You only need three wire between the fixtures if the switch is on a branch off from the lamps

supply =2+e= lamp =3+e= lamp =2+e= switch

but new requirements for smart switches require 3 wires to the switch in that setup now

supply =2+e= lamp =3+e= lamp =3+e= switch

That setup is frowned upon these days because CFLs can blink when the switch is off.

You have the supply going direct to the switch (which is the preferred setup) so you only need 2+earth going from the switch
to the lamps

If any of those boxes are metal the earth wire should connect to the box. if not just join it with a wire nut as you show.


fireplace door and stone veneer over brick fireplace

For those who came here from web search, I've done this and I can share my experience.

You install doors before.
There will be gaps between firebox bricks and door frame - cover them with cement.
Remember to raise doors high enough over existing opening to allow for the thickness of the new hearth stones (if you plan to put them) so that these little vents in the bottom of the doors have unobstructed air flow
If you plan to install stone veneer with corners build up a wood frame over bricks deep enough to accommodate these corner returns
Cover all the gaps with cement
If you built the wooden frame, you don't have any metal to put cement on. It's all covered with plywood and wire and cement layers.
If you had a mantle shelf you might need to redo/rethink how you want to secure it after the stone is laid, but before actually laying the stone.
Instructions call for cement type S ($7 per 40lb), but my experience shows that you need  much more experience with stonework to use it than I had, so just use polymer modified tile thinset ($25 per 40lb)
Use cement type S + cement colorant for grouting
Forget finding the perfect stone, cut and cut and cut
Get yourself a vac enabled cover for angle grinder and use shop vac


Should I rebuild or just replace worn out cordless tool batteries?

Rebuilding NiCd battery cell packs can be a good alternative to buying new packs. There are really only a few manufactures of these  type of cells, but the quality can differ as the prices may indicate. The majority of the price of a new pack is the pack package itself, which is specific to each tool, even though the cells inside are pretty similar. The amp hour rating and number of recharges it will take are the most important thing.  I have noticed that the Porter Cable battery packs are a lot less expensive than most of the other brands. To be honest, I haven't researched the brand of cells they use as an OEM, but you can get info online about cell manufacturers and ratings on the quality levels. I would look closely at the warranty the rebuilder is offering, which cells they are using and avoid a bargain basement price with a poor warranty or hidden costs such as a "recycling fee". A supper low price on a rebuild or a complete replacement may indicate a clearance of old stock. NiCd's hate to sit around for long periods uncharged, which can really affect performance and charging ability. Check the date codes and don't accept any that may be much over 6 to 9 months old.


Why does my furnace have different startup sounds after maintenance?

Disclaimer: I am not a HVAC technician, and this is speculation on very little information.

I am guessing that what you describe as “like an amplified version of burners flames on a stove” is mostly the sound of the gas flowing through the piping and burners, not the combustion itself.

The “big whoosh”, then, is when the not-yet-burning gas reaches the igniter, and a bunch of gas ignites all at once (causing a noise as the gas and air becomes very much hotter and expands).

If there is less “big whoosh” but the furnace is doing its heating job, that suggests that the gas is igniting more promptly with less accumulation of unburned gas, which is, all else being equal, a good thing.

I would suggest that to further settle your mind you should look at the flames. They should be blue (with perhaps occasional orange flickers but not continuous ones) and in a neat row, and when they ignite they should not spill back out of the burner and heat exchanger area even for an instant. Don't remove anything other than the usual outer access panels to get a look, as it might change the airflow away from normal.


Lacking any details (feel free to edit your question and add them) about your well pump type (suction, jet, submersible) or location, this mostly sounds like an improperly pre-pressurized accumulator (pressure tank.) If the pump kicks on at 30 PSI and the air side of the tank is not set at 27 or 28 PSI, the water in the tank may run out before the pump gets going, producing symptoms as you see.

If you turn the pump power off and drain water from the system, the pressure on the air side of the accumulator should be 2-3 PSI below the cut-in pressure. That 2-3 PSI allows for water to be supplied while the pump gets going. If your pump is submersible this is an easy check. If your pump requires priming to restart, it's a more involved check, as you'll have to prime the pump.


How to keep water away from house from new concrete pad?

Your key design element for the concrete pad will be the slope that you plan for the surface away from the house. This allows water to run down slope rather than gathering at the house. Another detail will be the attention paid to getting a flat surface without dips and pockets of unevenness where water could collect.


What is this Lead (Pb, metal) cable called and why is it used?

It is lead clad electrical cable.  It was generally used for underground wiring back in the day, however I've occasionally seen it used indoors.  Likely a case of "Well, we already have this so might as well use it."

I've also seen something similar that contained telephone pairs, but I doubt a home would need that many phone lines.


Is Flex Duct Safe To Use In A Crawl Space?

I would not use flexible duct in a crawl space.  It is like a 4 lane freeway for animals and bugs.  Rigid duct is very easy to piece together.  Even long runs might take you an extra few minutes.


Is it ok to store a table saw outdoors in a crate?

Table saw tables are often made of cast iron, which is very susceptible to rust. I keep a plywood cover on mine at all times because a humid day can cause an orange film to form. There are products that help with that, but they need to be applied after each use.
I suggest that you try and cover or seal moisture out of the table, if not the motor and other metal components. Desiccant material can help absorb moisture in the air, but you won't reduce humidity if not in a contained space. Any exchange of outdoor air will render it ineffective.


Even though someone is using it as a closet, that is an "alcove", so it was not built to have a door. So you will have fitment issue no matter what you do; the crown molding at the top is a problem, the baseboard on the left side it another, where a sliding door would slide to is a problem, etc. etc. etc.
Were it me, I would make a new top header extending down just below that crown molding and add some right side trim to give a straight edge for it to close against, then use a "barn door" external track system on the wall to the right. Ignore the color and style of this door, but here is an example of the type of slide system.


What materials should be used to seal a square sump pit

I would install a frame built out of treated lumber to support the lid. Anchor it to the concrete with construction adhesive and concrete screws (Tapcon). It appears that your pit is very shallow, so you may need to build the frame above the pit and surrounding it to gain height for the pump, etc. I'm thinking 2x4s against the walls and 2x10s oposite, flush on top.

Then, buy or build a polycarbonate lid using appropriate grommets for the penetrations. This company offers a great selection of parts (and a ton of good information). If you want to use one of their round covers, put a 3/4" treated plywood deck on your frame and cut a circular hole to match. Screw the lid on with a strip of foam tape underneath.

On a related note, Radon mitigation systems don't rely solely on barriers to Radon gas, per se, but airflow management. By venting underslab air, Radon is diluted and dissipated to a safe location. Simply sealing a foundation is unlikely to be successful. I'm assuming here that a fan or static suction mechanism will be installed.


It's hard to be certain exactly how your existing wiring is working.  It looks like the upstairs switch is just switching the hot feed to the downstairs switch.  (But looking at the white wires, it appears to be switching something else too.  Very odd.  Does the upstairs switch turn off more than one thing?)

However, I think I can answer the question, "Can I make the switches operate independently without running new wires?" :  Probably not. What you want is a 3-way switch setup between the two switches, and it appears you only have a single conductor connecting the two switches.  You'd need additional conductors between the switches in order to install a three way configuration.  Sorry.


Why isn't my electric hot water tank producing hot water?

Hot water will depend on the recovery time of the heater. Being off, it will take longer than normal since there is no residual heat. Does this water heater have any adjustable settings, an off, vacation or hold, or adjustable thermostat? I suggest waiting about half a day and see what it does. If it still is cold water temp, you have a wiring or element issue. If it is warm, wait until the next day and test again. If it's hot, you're good, still warm? Check elements or settings (if it has any).

As for pressure, have the water off, and I assume drained from the plumbing, you may have sediment washed into the aerator or valves. Pull your aerator of each sink, if it can be, and check for sediment. Clean and reinstall. If that doesn't help, try to open and close the valves under the sink a few times, check the aerator again.


Can I wire-nut together and cut a switch out of my overhead fan?

With all the new technology it seems the NEC and local codes are having a hard time keeping up. This may be one example.
I'm probably over my head here but it seems logical that securely wire-nutting them would certainly be safe. They are in an accessible, approved box. There is still a  switch control which has UL approval although it's technically in the fan/light assembly. I'm not suggesting you do this without checking your local and NEC codes. If they haven't dealt with this yet I would think it will be happening soon.


Do I need a hammer drill to install brackets for drapes on a brick wall?

Petty much going to need a hammer drill for brick. You could try going into the mortar, but it sounds like you already dulled your bit. Try a fresh bit going into the mortar joint but don't expect superior pull-out strength.


It doesn't matter where the lines connect to the manifold. Also I extend the lines and loop them so they are easier to work with.
I have had to replace hundreds of manafolds


One way is to drill out, re-tap and fit a helicoil to the required thread. Do make sure that this will be strong enough for the purpose.

Of course, it may be possible to find the correct pitch bolts for the original.


Hot Water stopped working in Kitchen Faucet

Chances are either the valve seal has disintegrated and clogged the line, or other sediment has broken free and done the same.

Disassembling a faucet is usually fairly simple. Remove the set screw retaining the handle, then start removing the exposed nut, washers, and valve components. Lay them out in order for correct reassembly. Check for damage and debris.

If your valves are not soldered in (if they're installed using compression fittings), replacement is fairly simple. It's a good opportunity for even an occasional DIYer to get his hands dirty. Post a photo or accurate description for more assistance.


Have 1/2 switched wall outlet. Adding ceiling fan using existing wiring

most direct way to do this would be to add 2 junction boxes in the attic.
the 14-3 from the switch to the outlet cut that with enough length to make it to the ceiling fan.
now you have a wire from the switch to the ceiling fan.
add a 14-2 from the ceiling fan to the rest of the 14-3 that goes to the outlet. add a junction box at that location. connect the red wire to the black ones. white to white. bare to bare.
in the ceiling fan connect the red to the ceiling fan and the black to the 14-2 black. connect all whites together
this way you won't have to cut sheetrock. and you won't have to rewire the devices.
the other way to do this is to fish a new wire from the switch to the ceiling fan recommend 14-3 so you can switch the fan separate from the light.
the only reason i don't recommend this is puling the switch box out of the wall and replacing it can be a pain. but ill walk you threw that if you want.


Only 1.5’ down for a 6’ fence is unacceptable. The first wind will cause the fence to lean...then eventually fail.

Adding soil to the top is pointless. You want the posts in undisturbed soil.

I’d remove it and start again...minimum 30” down.


Pouring concrete for fence posts in heavy rain

All concrete sets up under water.  http://www.cement.org/cement-concrete-basics/faqs

The only thing that will be impacted is the finish.  If the top was not covered then the concrete will take on a bumpy appearance as the finer material may wash away and expose the aggregate.


Using 15A light switches to switch <15A on a 20A branch circuit is OK, unless you're switching receptacles!
As it turns out, NEC 404.14(A) permits the use of a snap switch (general light switch) to control any hardwired, non-motor load up to its rating, or motor loads under specific conditions (informational notes omitted):

404.14 Rating and Use of Switches. Switches shall be used
within their ratings and as indicated in 404.14(A) through (F).

(A) Alternating-Current General-Use Snap Switch. A form of
general-use snap switch suitable only for use on ac circuits for
controlling the following:

(1) Resistive and inductive loads not exceeding the ampere
rating of the switch at the voltage applied

(2) Tungsten-filament lamp loads not exceeding the ampere
rating of the switch at 120 volts

(3) Motor loads not exceeding 80 percent of the ampere
rating of the switch at its rated voltage

Note, though, this doesn't hold true when you're switching receptacles, as someone could plug say, a space heater into the receptacle(s) and exceed the rating of the switch as a result (informational note omitted again):

(F) Cord- and Plug-Connected Loads. Where a snap switch or
control device is used to control cord- and plug-connected
equipment on a general-purpose branch circuit, each snap
switch or control device controlling receptacle outlets or cord
connectors that are supplied by permanently connected cord
pendants shall be rated at not less than the rating of the maximum permitted ampere rating or setting of the overcurrent
device protecting the receptacles or cord connectors, as provided in 210.21(B).

Exception: Where a snap switch or control device is used to control not
more than one receptacle on a branch circuit, the switch or control
device shall be permitted to be rated at not less than the rating of the
receptacle.

The reason why is in your hypothetical case, the wall switches are not in the path of the current the vacuum draws, basically.  (Keep in mind that current flows in loops and that loads connected are in parallel.)


You don't need to insulate this shed. Also, it's a bad idea to have the compressor in a shed in the first place. Compressors are designed to be outdoors because they need to reject heat. In sunny 95f summer weather, your "insulated shed" is really an oven. In winter, insulating a building will not actually raise interior temperatures unless there is a source of heat on the inside (insulation slows heat movement, but it does not generate heat where none exists). High deserts are sunny, but you mentioned that your shed has no windows to allow sunlight in. So insulating the shed will not actually meaningfully raise the temperatures that the compressor is exposed to.

Next, you will not be able to prevent condensation in -20f weather. However at that temperature the moisture-holding capacity of the air is incredibly low--especially in a high-altitude desert (I live in one too; I know what it's like). Despite this, if there is a source of moisture, it will condense somewhere; the only way around that is to keep all condensation-forming surfaces above the dew point which is impossible in the winter without a source of heat, irrespective of how much insulation you have.

Finally, your concern about mold is misplaced. Mold won't grow in -20f weather. The time to worry is during the summer and the swing seasons, but during those times of year, the problem won't be condensation because you generally won't have interior surfaces below the dew point. The real cause of mold is not condensation but rather water leaks from a faulty roof or bad flashing somewhere. Monsoon rains can be brutal so the roof especially needs to be leak-proof. The intense sun in your climate will do a great job of killing mold if you let it!

Here's what I would do: remove the shed's walls and make your shed essentially just a roof to protect the compressor from rain and snow. This will ensure enough airflow around the unit in summer to do its job and allow the sun to warm it in winter and kill any mold that grows as a result of monsoon rains.


Electrical question on floating neutral generator for emergency use

Lets start with your premise that you must buy a 'floating neutral generator'.  That is simply not true, you can buy code compliant transfer switches with neutral-grounding disconnects built in as described in this video.

Next, you seem to be worried about a possible 'transient voltage;' created by double bonding your generator.  This will only occur if the generator is already self-bonded (bonded-neutral), and wouldn't be a concern in the scenario you described.

However, your concern about trying to power a water heater with a floating generator via extension cord isn't misplaced as water heaters often will not run if they detect a lack and unbounded neutral. Thus if you were to ever try to run the generator to power your water heater without it also being connected to the electrical panel for your furnace (such as having having your  your transfer switch turned off), you may experience an error.

To fully wrap you head around this, I found this video explained exactly what bonded-nutural is and the type of power a floating-neutral generator produces


It looks like there is more damage likely hidden under the plaster and the wood members there would be structural. You should remove the plaster to get to and repair this damage or verify that there is none.

I suggest removing all the plaster of the relatively small area that is the ceiling of the bay window and replace with drywall after the repair work is done.


How can I prevent my furnace vent from icing up and shutting off the furnace?

One thing you can do is insulate the exhaust vent all the way to the outlet. The warmer the air is when it gets to the opening, the more likely it won't freeze. Does it pass through any unconditioned spaces on the way to its outlet? If so insulate it the whole way from the furnace as best as you can.. Keep that 85f degree exhaust air as warm as possible on its journey to the freezing cold..


How do you count the number of wires in a fill capacity of an outlet box?

I use a shorthand version of the full NEC treatment. Start with this table that says how much space for each wire size.

Pick  your largest ground wire and look it up and add it once. All other grounds are free.  If you have four #14 grounds and one #8, that's 3.00 cubic inches.
Any cable clamps? Pick the largest wire clamped, ditto. Covers all clamps.
Any support brackets? Pick the largest wire associated with the supported item, look it up. it counts once.
Pigtails are free.
Other than that, every wire passing through entering and terminating in the box in a cap, splice or device, costs what the table says.  e.g. if you have two 12/2 cables into the box, grounds are already accounted for leaving 4 wires, x 2.25 cubic inches = 9.00.
2 wires nutted together don't count as one, sorry.
Any wires over 12" length, look it up, that per extra foot.
For each yoke, what's the largest wire going onto that yoke?  Look it up and count it twice.  So if you have a 10AWG wire in there for some reason, that yoke counts as 5.00 c.i.

There should be a stamping on the box saying how many cubic inches it is.  Common box sizes have official sizes, and the sales literature for those boxes will also say.

What's a yoke? A switch, receptacle, GFCI etc.  Yes I know they are dramatically different sizes. I don't write the rules.

So as an exercise.  Box in EMT conduit.  You have four #6 THHN wires (hot hot neutral ground) passing through the back of the box on their way to a subpanel.  You also have #14 hot and neutral THHN coming in, going to a receptacle at this box.  Then 14/2 Romex going out to some other location, with a clamp, and its ground goes to the steel box case.   You have:

1 ground, largest is #6 so 5.00.
3 #6 wires, so 15.00. Its ground was counted earlier.
4 wires #14 (the Romex ground was counted earlier) so 8.00.
1 receptacle, largest wire involved is #14, x2 so 4.00.
1 cable clamp, largest clamped is #14 so 2.00.

You need 34 cubic inches total.  It's a 120mm x 1.5" box, that's 29 cubic inches, so you get a raised receptacle cover that gives 5 more cubes and you're done.


What type of insulation is needed for exterior walls on a brick house?

If you wish to preserve the brick exterior, you have the following options, depending on the wall construction:

If you have a structural brick wall (e.g. multiple-wythe brick or brick veneer on block) then you will have to insulate the wall from the inside. This will entail applying rigid insulation board--either foam or mineral wool--over the inside of the wall, and then covering that up with drywall.
If you have a brick cavity wall (e.g. brick veneer on the outside and structural brick or block on the inside) then you can blow water-permeable insulation like perlite into the cavity. You could additionally insulate this wall from the inside as per above.
If you have a brick veneer on wood framed wall, then you'll need to insulate the stud cavities normally. You can use fiberglass batts, mineral wool batts, closed-cell spray foam, or dense-packed cellulose. All will be effective. One advantage to dense-packed cellulose is that you don't actually need to take down the drywall; you just drill holes in the top and blow in the cellulose. This could save you a ton of money if you haven't already removed the drywall. If you have to or plan to remove and replace the drywall anyway, my personal recommendation would be installing either mineral wool batts or dense-packed cellulose in the stud bays, covering the open stud bays with an additional layer of rigid mineral wool board, and then applying the drywall over that. An added bonus is that this will all but completely soundproof the house.


Did my home's builder not properly protect the outside molding from water?

Yes there should be flashing but that isn't the main issue.

This is the architect's problem.  The top of your molding is flat.  Where do you think water will go on a flat surface?  It will sit on it.  It will then seep into the wood and to the wood underneath it, slowly water logging and rotting all of it.  If someone showed me your new molding I would imagine this in 3-4 years.   You are lucky for it to last that long.

You need to replace the wood.  Then add flashing but more importantly add a triangular piece to the top that slopes out.  If all of the water slopes off of this at the top and you paint it every 5-8 years you will be fine.


How to make a 8 inch hole through a brick wall for venting

1 Roto hammer (rent from local tool rental company)

1+ Chisel bit(s)

1 8" circle drawn on the surface you wish to cut through

1+ hour of tedious, annoying, possibly painful labor

After you get your hole and ensure the vent fits, be prepared to seal any gaps with concrete caulk, or exterior vinyl caulk, or whatever suits your fancy.


I wouldn't mess with your kings. The biggest weakness in a wall of windows like this is stiffness. You want as much lumber going full-height as possible.

Also, that's not a header. It doesn't carry any load and merely offers window flange mounting and horizontal stiffness.

Pull the jacks, double the "header" (mullion, really) and toenail it in well, and carry on.


Why did my GFCI by my kitchen sink burn up?

First, if you replace breakers as a precaution, be VERY careful to get the correct breaker for your panel (even if the last guy didn't).  I am concerned that a non-necessary breaker swap could result in a correct (say: Murray) breaker being swapped for an incorrect (say: HOMeline) breaker, which would then cause other bus arcing problems later.
Also it's vital to use factory provided handle ties, not a sawn off nail, because the proper ties force the phases to be opposite.
Now you have a multi-wire branch circuit in which someone did a big naughty.  They used the neutral terminals on the device as a way to splice the supply neutral to the onward-power neutral (and also supply the device obviously).  That's not allowed; the neutral must always be pigtailed anywhere both hots are present.  That is so a device can be removed without knocking out power to the other half of the circuit.
Since you're supposed to pigtail anyway, and you need a GFCI there, and the screw terminal looks serviceable in traditional mode... you should pigtail this neutral and attach the pigtail to the old GFCI "the old fashioned way" so you have GFCI protection again.
Now, there are 2 possible failure modes here.
Improper torquing of the screw-and-clamp connection
In this arrangement, the screw clamps the one or two wires placed under the screw.  If the screw is not tightened to the correct torque, a poor connection will result in overheating, possible arcing, and exactly the damage you see.
Because of this, Code was amended in 2014? 2017? to require use of a torque screwdriver to set all torques.
Where was the current coming from to do this damage?  One of the various devices or outlets that flows onward from this location - note that all the MWBC's neutral current comes right through here.
Current travels in loops, so any current going out a "hot" must come back a "neutral".  Now if the MWBC is properly phased, some of the A-leg's current will travel down neutral to a B-leg load, and then return via that B-leg (so a bigger loop, with 2 loads in it).   The neutral in a proper MWBC never carries more current than a hot.
Misplacement of the breakers, resulting in overload of the neutral
This is the problem with individual (or duplex) breakers used for an MWBC.  If both breakers are on the same "leg" of power, the neutral handles all the return current for both hots, added together - so up to 40A of current.  Now, 15-20A receptacles are required to have 20A internal through-busing, but obviously not 40A - so this is likely to burn up the internal busing that connects the two terminals that you're not supposed to use as a splice.
If both breakers are on opposite legs, then neutral only handles difference current - if one hot is 17A and the other hot is 15A, neutral only handles 2A.  It's impossible for neutral to carry more than the breaker trip, so that works out great.
This is why MWBCs require at the least, two breakers with a factory handle-tie (which forces them to be on opposite legs) -- and at the most, a 2-pole 240V breaker.
This is especially vexing in GE panels, where it is very easy to mis-phase their double-stuffed 1/2" wide breakers. In a GE panel, consider it mandatory to use a 2-pole breaker, and don't force it into a space it doesn't want to go into!


Can I remove an interior wall which supports a post under the roof ridge?

It is highly highly likely that not only is that wall load bearing but it is a crucial loading bearing wall in the house.

Without a lot more pictures and plans I can give you a best guess:

Do not remove the 2x4 in the attic.  I doubt there is much load (there shouldn't be) on it but I bet it was added to strengthen the horizontal forces.
It looks like the two kitchen walls next to the living room are fulfilling the load across the house.  The gap looks like what a decent size doorway would be.  Also the fact that one is a few feet in just looks like a design element.  I would think that those few feet are still within the base for holding the load across the path of the "red" beam.
Which means most likely an architect will suggest running a header across bottom wall all the way across the house - on the same plane not the current plane a few feet away.  This is a considerable distance (from the looks of it) so it will be a big big piece of wood or an i-beam.
You can certainly hide the whole header, but this install will cost you a lot more in either work or money or both.  Or you can integrate part with existing wall and maybe have a post on the outside wall side.  Throw a faux wood cap over the ibeam and the install might be just 2-3k.

Just understand there is a very very small chance you could just knock the wall down.  There is a great chance that if you did you would see issues almost immediately as there is nothing close to this wall and it hold the perpendicular run on it.   This is something that you will have to have an architect look at.  Even if you DIY you will need plans for permits signed off by someone the city inspector trusts.  You knock down this wall and put up a header... don't plan on selling your house without an inspector noticing it and don't plan on your insurance company helping if there are problems.


Where is the ground wire on this light fixture controlled by a motion detector?

It looks like the fixture is plastic, so it's not likely you'll have to ground it.  The fixture strap (the brass color metal bits in the bag below the fixture in the photo) should have a threaded hole, where a green grounding screw can thread in.

Install a grounding screw in the threaded hole of the fixture strap, and attach the house grounding conductor to it.

I'm guessing the instructions included with the fixture are boilerplate documents, and are included with a variety of models.


Hot water turning cold in pipe at branch line

Failing back flow preventers in a shower or kitchen thermostat faucet could be the reason. At that faucet, the cold water could be pushed into the hot water pipes, since the cold water normally has a slightly higher pressure.
The back flow preventers are upstream of the mixing area which is upstream of the opening valve, i.e. this effect is significant even if the faucet is not in use. In a normal non - thermostat faucet, the mixing area is downstream of the opening valves.
The hot water back flow preventer is usually the first to fail due to higher temperature.


Sink P-Trap doesn't line up with Drain pipe

OK as a temp fix you could:

cut the existing metal tube, leave at least a couple inches from the blobbed up old connection.
clean the outside of the tube as well as you can, I would probably use steel wool.
use an 1 1/2" slip-joint coupler:

connect the new trap with the arm it came with, into the coupler.


Tree root coming through concrete under shed

You are going to have to dig under that slab, find the root and cut it off. Repair the slab with extra thickness. Pray it goes somewhere else next. She is going to appreciate your effort.  Happy Digging.  P.


Bathroom vanity tail piece doesn't align with P-trap inlet

Worst case cut the glued mess off and use a trap with compression rings a pvcckit at big box store 8-9$ . You will need a longer pice to the right 1-2$ more then everything is adjusted to the drain without pressure on it. They even make fancy chrome plated plastic for ~20 since you are upgrading if you want to. I would not use those flex tail pieces I usually find those after they have leaked and ruined the cabinet. Then put in the correct slip joint type of trap.


FAU is likely a "forced air unit" (e.g. a heater or air conditioner).
If it's two breaker switches tied together, that's a 240V volt circuit (if there's no tie between the two switches, that's an immediate hazard and must be fixed).


Can I set bricks with mortar on a new concrete stoop before it cures?

You can, as long as the concrete will support the weight. A few hours in it'll still be very fragile, especially if your weather is cool. You'll have to feel it out and make a judgement call. Plenty of times we've built basement walls on a new slab the next morning. If we're talking about a single row of brick it should be fine.

Concrete shrinks very slightly as it cures, but I doubt that'll be an issue for you here.


How do I install transition molding between my new hardwood and existing tile floors?

In your situation, I'd use reducer molding instead of T molding:


Why would my ceiling light only work half the time?

If it is a recessed Fixture there can be a thermal overload protector in it. It is towards the top of the fixture and looks something like this. It could be that the Fixture is too hot and the inrush current through the protector is too much and its tripping the protector.   Is it an Incandescent Bulb?    Swap it out with a LED and see if it does the same thing.   You can buy replacement protectors too.


How do I put together an Avid Outdoor Gazebo / Sun Shade

These are for a 9x13 Canopy #1083.  They may be similar to their many other models.

Inside the package, you will find these poles:

4x #1
4x #1b
3x #2
6x #2a
4x #3
4x #3a
4x #4

Connect the #1 & #1b poles together to form 4x4' poles
Connect the #2 & #2a poles together to form 3x6'8" poles (2 - 2a - 2)
Connect the #3 $ #3a & #4 poles together to form 4x6'5" poles

The shorter ones are for the 'Gable'... the canopy.  The #2 poles are the cross-bars for the canopy, and the #3/4 poles are the legs.

Here is what I've found easiest:

Assemble the gable completely upside down.
Flip it over
Add two legs to one of the 9' sides of the gable.
Drape the fabric over top
Fastening Velcro straps
Attach final two legs
Attach metal hooks at the bottom of the legs. This is the most difficult part.  Patience is required, or you may bend the poles.
Apply stakes to the rings near the bottom of the legs
Apply stakes to the extra nylon-rope stabilizers.


Proper order of operations for re-doing windows, stucco, and footing insulation

I think I've answered my own question:

I'm going to do the footing insulation first. This will increase the effective thickness of the footings and result in a metal flashing plate over the footing foam at the bottom of the existing walls (for drainage and termite control/visibility).

I can use that for the wall project by resting the wall's new foam insulation on top of it. I haven't decided whether to screw the foam directly over the stucco or remove it first (see Adding insulation to exterior wall; remove stucco cladding, or add on top of it?), but regardless,during that time I'll remove the windows, build plywood bucks to put in new ones over foam and flush with the new stucco cladding, and flash them like so:

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-067-stuck-on-you


Could excess water in the boiler cause overflowing radiators?

Two common causes of overfilled boilers are a defective auto fill valve (if equipped) and the tankless coil. You can test the auto fill valve by shutting off the supply line to the boiler. If the overfill condition ceases the auto fill is the culprit. If you have a tankless water heater (a coil inside the boiler that makes your hot water) it may be leaking. The leak allows uncontrolled domestic  water to enter the boiler causing the overfill condition.


Surface prep is one of the most important factors of painting, it takes most of the time. If the surfaces are clean of environmental contaminates, fireplace and cigarette smoke for example or hand prints around door knobs, then you could forego wiping down the trim or places were heavy deposits of "stuff" build up.

There are "liquid sanding" compounds that dull a surface to eliminate sanding, But I can't vouch for those. Hand sanding at best for detail areas, use a pole sander for larger wall surfaces, use 120-180 grit if you plan on priming the wall again. This will be needed if you plan on changing the color to something that may not cover on one coat. Use 220 to de-gloss the surface, if the finish paint can be done in one coat. Otherwise you can see the scratch marks through the finish coat (with heavier grit), if you use gloss paint. This effort over the old paint will also remove other debris that inevitably gets in the wet paint as it is applied or while it dries, such as lint, hair and fuzz, paint runs, you name it.

Use the what may be now the not-so-reflectiveness of the once was glossy paint to determine how well the scratch pattern is on the wall.

With a pole sander, it may only take an overlapping pass in each direction (left to right, top to bottom) to accomplish this. This will help keep track of what you done already. Better than waving around all over and hoping you caught all the area.

No sanding job will be 100%, the idea is that the new paint will have enough to bite into to hold up over time.

The visual amount to look for? Picture what a comb or brush for your hair would look like if it left marks on the wall after one or two passes. Of course, what you will be doing in reality will not be uniform as my word picture suggests, but the idea is to have more scratched wall surface than glossy, with no large spots that are still glossy like it was never sanded.


Normally turning the pipe anti clockwise will unscrew the pipe from the threaded elbow in the wall. Looking at your top photo I would bet that is the correct advice but the 2nd photo looks like the valve, you will need to remove the cover it may be held in place with a set screw or grub screw if it doesn’t unscrew. then you should be able to remove the surround or back splash I would make that corner is sealed with your new work as that is a place where a lot of water can enter the wall and cause rot.


Condenser fan motor overheats and then shuts off

Is this condenser fan motor for a split system with the condensing unit  outside? Can you check the running amperage of the new motor to make sure it is not running in an overloaded state? Are you sure that the new motor is the same H.P. as the old motor? Did you check the old and new motors to make sure that the input voltage and RPM  are the same? There has to be a good reason for the new motor to overheat.


Restoring my deck: is washing necessary if I sand?

No washing will not really help and will slow the process,
to get things to match a fair amount of sanding may be needed to remove the weathered surface. In cases where I have a mix I usually paint but some stains will work ok.


I have to question this.....Why do you even want to mess around with this? There are a few really good reasons that show that this makes no sense.

1) When you go to buy paint at your supplier (hardware store, big box or paint store) there is generally little or no difference in price of the paint whether you buy the straight white in the can or have it colorized to your choice. You can even bring in a sample at most outlets these days and they will mix to match.

2) If you want to use your machine you have to pay separately for any tints / colorizers that you would use.

3) These machines can be a real mess if things leak or break.

4) I believe that these machines require regular maintenance that becomes even more important if there is not a minimal amount of usage of each colorizer dispenser.

Based upon these factors I would have to suggest that it makes no economic sense even start with this.


PROBLEM RESOLVED! #5 was a switch connection from the timer. #1 was porch lights. #2 was main feed. #3 was living room outlets and #4 was no longer used


How can I run power from an end-of-run light switch to a second switch?

Can't be done, without installing more wires.

What you have is known as a "switch loop".  An ungrounded (hot) conductor goes to the switch, and a switched ungrounded (hot) conductor comes back from the switch. There's no grounded (neutral), so no way to extend the circuit.


What fastener should I use to attach an aluminium bracket to a wall?

Should be fine, especially for indoor use, where there is little moisture and salt. Zinc and aluminum are pretty close galvanically, so the zinc coating should help. In fact, most bolts used on aluminum-structure airplanes are made of steel plated with zinc or cadmium (source).


Clamps for cutting PVC or other circular objects

There are an array of things that will clamp a PVC pipe.

The best thing for a bench is probably a vice clamp - probably need to put a thin rag on each side.   They also make circle clamps but you will need one for various sizes.

Probably the most used plumbing tool is a chain vice.   Coupled with some rubber matting or rags you can clamp PVC tight.

I have cut a lot of PVC in my life and I have never felt the need to clamp it.  You should be using a mitre saw or you should just buy a PVC pipe cutter - I use both ways.


The Code requires all bathrooms with bathing facilities to provide mechanical ventilation and it shall exhaust directly to the exterior. (See ICC M1506.4)
The capacity shall be 50 cfm intermittently and 20 cfm continuously. (See a ICC Table M1506.3)
Note: I remember the old code allowed an operable window in lieu of a mechanical vent.


Will cutting PVC pipe with a miter saw dull the blade?

Absolutely not!!  Go for it, but hang on tight to the pipe, it has a tenancy to roll in a chop saw.


NEC 2017, which is the most adopted version currently, requires at least one dedicated 20A circuit to at least one or all receptacles in the laundry room and all require GFCI protection -- 210.8(A)(10) and they should be accessible where they can be tested and reset as per the manufacturer instructions.  This means not stuffed behind the washer at the bottom where you can't reach it without having to remove the washer.

Also worth noting is the laundry room lights are NOT allowed to be on the laundry circuit.  I know a lot of people have their washer and dryer in the most odd places so this is a often overlooked code for older homes.

For your current situation I'd recommend getting a different model washing machine as safety from GFCI protection can be the difference of life and death.


I use a charcoal filter ahead of the regular filter. My wife has a nose that can smell anything even a football field away. They work great, I buy mine at Home Depot or lowes for around $10.00. Look for the WEB Absorber, ask an attendant in the heating/ ac section. It is a cut to size and comes in  20x25 size. I only had to cut the plastic piece once and reuse with each change. Mine last 6 months.


How can I eliminate an odor in an unvented bathroom?

Install a fan vented to the outside
Install a fan with a carbon filter that recirculates air
Spray a deordorizer/fragrance
Put a clothes-pin over your nose
Eat foods that result to less foul smelling bowel movements
Close the door and hope for the best


Try pushing the door closed as hard as you can and maybe this will take pressure off the latch mechanism allowing the door to be unlatched. I know of one case where someone took too much slack out of the the door by threading in the screw in the jamb too far. They then latched the door and it was stuck.

After you get the door to unlatch and get it open, adjust the latching to introduce a little slack in the latch. If it is a case of in-and-out alignment, you might have to bend or file one side of the hook, but I would suppose there is some sort of adjustment.


How to repair garage interior back wall damage hit lightly by my car

It is almost certainly drywall (also called wallboard or plasterboard), which usually consists of a gypsum based core with paper faces on each side.

The damage looks only cosmetic. You could cut out the damaged section and replace it with a patch and then tape and mud it. However, it looks shallow and intact enough to just fill in over it.

You need drywall tape, preferably the self stick mesh type, and drywall compound (also called mud), a filling material.

Cut pieces of tape longer than the hole and cover it horizontally, overlapping pieces of tape so the hole is covered and the tape extends at least 1/2 to 1" on each side.
With a taping knife, apply the taping compound, gently pushing it through the tape. Perfect filling it not essential. Overlap the compound on to the sound area of the wall for at least an inch or two. Do not apply too much mud on the first coat.
Allow to dry. Wipe down the compound with a damp sponge (a form of wet sanding) to remove high spots and any lines.
Reapply another coat of compound, covering a slightly wider area. Again allow to dry.
Wet sand again. If even and smooth enough, allow to dry and repaint. If not, you may want a third coat or additional smoothing.

Note that any painting, even with the exact same paint originally used, will not fully blend with the existing coat due to fading/aging. If an invisible patch is desired (probably not necessary in a garage), you may need to repaint the whole wall or area.


why does my toilet have two overflow tubes and a refill line that tees?

It's a line to fill other traps that may run dry when not used. Every time you flush some water is diverted to top up the traps and prevent a sudden stink of sewage.

These traps that need topping up would be for example the floordrain in the basement or the drain for a water heater safety valve.


Building a Mezzanine Office 2x10s or 2x122

Assuming ordinary loads on the floor and etc. you can look this up on a span table, such as this one.

This shows that for a 16' span, 2x10's spaced 12" on center are adequate even with the Eastern spruce number for a 40#/ft-ft live load.

You could get by with 2x8's if you use #1 grade yellow pine and only need to support a 30#/ft-ft live load, but I'd much rather leave some room for error than try to squeak by.

With 2x12's, you can actually get by with 24" spacing, although that's going to be a springy floor, it's probably a significant savings.  Spruce will make it, but you could probably upgrade from spruce to #1 or #2 yellow pine for some room for error and still come out ahead.


What is the proper way to run ethernet cable along walls and doors

I have used those cord covers.  They are pretty easy to use and fairly stiff so they protect the cable.  The adhesive they come with sticks pretty well.  I'd try to keep them on the baseboards and moldings rather than the drywall so you can clean up any adhesive residue when you remove them.

I don't think they have the fittings you need for corners, angles, etc.  They don't help at all if you have to cross a floor.  For your application you'd be just as well tucking them in by the baseboard as suggested.

It's really unusual that you can't cover an apartment with one wireless router.  It may be as simple as repositioning the router up high on the wall.  I'd see if you can fix the wireless before bothering with the raceway and all.


What tools and techniques are available for sanding without machinery?

Hand-plane before you sand. A good sharp plane and good technique produces a very nice finish. Only light sanding required after that.

Don't plane after sanding, the leftover grit will dull your blade.

Other than that, it's about elbow grease.


How do I know when my water heater should be replaced?

Your other question implies that it's gas. Yes, there are more efficent gas units (as well as more efficient electric heat-pump units) available now. (Electric resistance units are really about the same since they started using a reasonable amount of insulation on them.)

Waiting for the one you have to fail may mean water damage and replacing it in a hurry, which can negatively impact your ability to shop around and get exactly what you want. You are certainly past the usual "lifetime" of a water heater already, though that can vary with water quality/chemistry.

In some areas significant rebates are available on heat pump water heaters, which are otherwise expensive, but which can (compare YOUR local rates for each) actually be cheaper than gas to run, especially if the "moderate A/C effect" is beneficial in your climate.


No, it is not a bearing wall, but there is a "double stud" (post) required in the wall line to support the "beam that supports the roof" that is in the second floor exterior wall. Very unusual.

This post (double stud) is important because it's noted on the second floor plan too. So, the double stud is to extend up to the roof level and align with the double stud on the first floor level. We don't create a separate structural system (like this double stud system / beam system) we just "up-size" the floor joists to support the second floor loading and the second floor exterior wall load and whatever roof loads too.

First, you'll notice there are parallel walls on each side of the kitchen and dining that align with the second floor (although the second floor is slightly narrower.) This allows all the framing to span from wall to wall and transfer the loads to the foundation. The wall between the kitchen / dining runs perpendicular to the floor joists and roof trusses so it will not be a bearing wall, but has a "double stud" note in it. So, you can remove the WALL but not the POST (double stud).

Second, if you look close, you'll see notes and arrows on the drawings that refer to, "300 x 50 joists". This refers to the size of the joists and the direction the joists are to span. (We Americans never learned the metric system.) As you can see, the floor joists rests on the walls perpendicular to the kitchen / dining wall. So, again, it's not a bearing wall.

Also, it is not a "shear wall". A shear wall is used to keep the building "stiff" and not allow the structure to sway or turn into a parallelogram. I live in a high wind area, as I suspect you do too, and I'm very interested in horizontal thrusts on buildings as well as vertical loads.

You can remove this wall (but not the double stud) and sleep well at nights or not worry when you're out windsurfing.

Note: If you look close at the North East elevation, you'll notice there is no double studs required on the left side of the drawing, only on the right side. Yet, it has the same identical roof structure. (Hmmm...unless there is a vaulted ceiling on the right side.   Is there?)


How can I remove a coffee stain from carpet?

If the pros couldn't do much, It sounds like the stain is there for good. Some suggestions:

small throw rug/welcome mat. Just cover it up!
bring in a pro to swap that bit of carpet with maybe something in a closet, or just a far corner.  A good carpet pro should be able to seam it all back together.
dye the entire carpet a shade or two darker. I know such services exist, though I have not used them and can't vouch for them.


How to balance thermostat settings between zones to maximize efficiency?

I think you are saying that you have two zones on one boiler, each fed by its own pump and thermostat (i.e. the radiators have been converted to hot water).  My answer is based on this assumption.

Since they're both on the same boiler, the water is heated with equal fuel efficiency.

The two loops probably are different in how efficiently they transfer that heat to the room.  Low efficiency in transferring heat to the room will decrease the heating capacity of your boiler, which is a problem if you can't get the house warm enough on a cold night.  But as long as you're keeping up with heat demand, efficiency in transferring heat doesn't make a difference with fuel usage.  (You can tell how efficient they are in transferring heat to the room by feeling the temperature at the end of the loop -- if it's pretty cold, the heat was transferred to the room very well)

So, the answer is that you should set the thermostats to the lowest temperature where you're comfortable.  Your addition from 2000 likely has a lot more insulation than the original 1939 house (in 2000 the building code required a lot of insulation, 1939 not so much), so if you want to pick the more efficient one to heat, heat the addition not the main house.  It will be more efficient because you'll lose less heat because of the greater insulation.


Stop pipe from banging without removing floorboards

You can control the depth of cut very accurately with a circular saw.

However, banging pipes are usually caused by water-hammer, and securing the pipes doesn't completely cure the problem. You (or a plumber) can install a shock arrestor (various types are available) near the valve that is causing the problem.


Thats right.   You need air in the tank.   OR  the bladder has ruptured.   Either way you need air in the tank, and likely need to put more air in about twice a year until you replace the P tank.


What do i need to stop my computer from rebooting in electricity fluctuations

Not wishing to state the obvious, but really, the first thing to do is resolve the power fluctuations if at all possible.

Assuming that's out of your control, then a decent UPS should be able to handle this by itself. You shouldn't need external inverters or stabilisers.

To be honest, at first glance, it sounds like your initial UPS may be faulty or simply not up to the job. Can you be more specific about the nature of the fluctuations and how long they last?


I would call the support line to verify the length. The unit is precharged with refrigerant and too short a line set will cause an overcharge condition.
Overcharge can cause icing of the system and shorten the service life.
Worst case, make a loop close to the compressor. A loop helps reduce vibrations transmitted through the line set when the length is short.


What's the best way to insulate a floor over a crawl space?

The 'best' option is full encapsulation and insulation. This is the recommended method today. The primary arguments are:

humidity levels in an encapsulated space are much lower than vented spaces
due to it being encapsulated, it's much cleaner which can improve indoor air temperature (no pest droppings, dust, mold, pollen, etc. migrating up through the floor)

However, if you don't want to go that route, there are recommendations for insulating just the underside using rigid or spray foam. Building Science Corporation has recommendations.


How to secure shoe moulding against metal frame

The only option is to nail it to the floor. If you attach it to the door frame, it will be too flimsy.

You could try an epoxy sealant, but water will get in anyway. Preventing water ingress requires a structure that is designed for it.

I wouldn't worry about condensation. Normally, its only when you have a steady flow of water that there is a problem.

Caulk will not do anything. Sometimes at the marina I see funny boats where the owner thinks they can keep out water with caulk. They get a leaky window because they have a sucky boat, so they get the idea in their head that all they have to do is seal the window with caulk. The leak continues. So, they reason they need to use more caulk. You can guess where this is headed. Soon, the boat looks like it should be renamed "Count Caulkula".


Faulty wire on ring main tripping fuse identified, but what could cause it? (UK)

You have taken the right steps to trace and identify the area of the problem, and the nature of the fault, but you still cannot know the source of the fault without further inspection.

Many things, including those you have identified, can cause faults like this. Yes, burying a junction box in the ceiling is inconvenient and inappropriate if it is not accessible for servicing, but it is still very common. If there is a junction box between the two sockets you have disconnected, the fault could be with or within it. If not, the fault is certainly in the cable.

Examples of what could cause continuity between live and earth wires in a multi-core cable are mechanical damage, insulation breakdown, insertion of a conductive item into the cable such as a nail or screw, loose, poor or incorrect connections at a junction or other accessory, presence of conductive liquid, etc.

The simplest off the cuff remark would be replace the run between the two sockets, but if this means removing tiles, chasing brick or plaster work, redecorating, lifting floorboards - it can become anything but simple.

If you can observe the cable within the ceiling, such as by removing a spotlight and looking in the hole (with a mobile phone camera, for example), or lifting floor boards above, you will be able to see whether there is any other damage or signs of damage (such as scorching, water marks) to the cable in question or the area nearby. If the fault is in that area, you have a chance of fixing it.

If however it's a nail through the cable on a wall, and it's installed in capping and clipped beneath the plaster, the only solution will be to remove it destructively, for which I recommend you contract a suitable electrician.


What kind of dimmer switch and ceiling fan are needed to correctly wire and control a ceiling fan?

You're on the right track with running separate switched hots for the fan and light
First off, you're definitely on the correct track with running separate switched hots for the fan and light; having only one switched-hot at the fan location limits your options quite severely.  To go along with this, you'll also want to have two switch gangs available at all control locations you plan to operate the light and fan from; that way, you can use separate devices for light and fan control, instead of limiting yourself to combination controllers.  Finally, you'll want to arrange your wiring so that neutral is available at the primary control location, if not all control locations; this is important as smart switches generally require neutral to power themselves properly.
Be careful when you shop for fans, though!
The other issue you'll run into is that you will need to be somewhat careful when you shop for fans.  Some newer fan designs use a DC fan motor, driven by an integral speed controller; as a result, they don't play nicely with third-party controls.  While some of these fans may be available with "smart" features out of the box, they don't lend themselves to integration with any sort of broader ecosystem of smart devices.
However, most fan controllers aren't too picky otherwise, and will work with any fan where you have to wire the light kit and fan motor to separate wires on the remote, or fans that ship without a remote for that matter, just pull chains.  Don't forget to make sure the chains are set to HIGH when you install the smart switch!
As to fan controls...
As the comments allude to, a fan requires a special fan speed controller instead of an ordinary dimmer; regular dimmers may burn out prematurely, cause the fan to hum most annoyingly, or even damage the fan itself due to overheating.  The two primary options for "smart" fan control are the Lutron Caseta fan controller, which is a good option when paired with the rest of the Caseta line or if you are interested in "spot" wireless control without any "smart" features for that matter as it can be swapped out for something else relatively easily due to being a wallbox device, and the Insteon FanLinc, which is a canopy module device that doesn't require the extra hot wire, and thus is a good option in retrofit scenarios where separate hots are unavailable, or if sophisticated scene-based control is necessary.
There are a couple of other wall-switch or canopy module options: GE/Jasco makes a Z-Wave wallbox fan controller, while there's a ceiling fan module in the Wink ecosystem if you're in Zigbee world.  There are also products that can work with an existing ceiling fan receiver/remote setup to give it Wi-Fi capability, but that's again more of a retrofit option.


Is it safe to put a clothes washer outdoors?

I have a friend who has a washer and dryer on his screened-in porch. He's mentioned that he's had his clothes frozen solid in the washer before, and the pipes have frozen on him as well. If you live in a cold climate, that could be a major factor.


Concrete vs crushed gravel for fence posts in clay soil?

In clay soil, the water just sits in the hole, especially where the water table is close to the surface.  Gravel lets the water get right up against the post, which will rot it out fast.  Using concrete will help the post to last longer, if you create a dome of concrete above soil level and make sure it is smooth and tight against the post.  This will ensure that no water gets down into the post.  Also, make sure the bottom of the post is not below the concrete level or the post will soak water up from the bottom (pour a little concrete in the hole, then set the post, then fill the rest of the way)


This is a ring shank nail they have very good pullout strength , Added for those that don't have 35+ years experience. The Ring shank nails I used in the 70's were 100% except for the tip. No matter how many groves are on the nail it is a Ring Shank nail!. We used them on sub flooring to reduce squeaking and on some kinds of siding where there were big temperature changes that allowed glued sinkers and galvanized to pull out. Added 5/16/16- I did double check with my step dad (retired contractor) and he said they were called ring shank or step shank and there were 2 types but both had the head pulling off issue because of the way they were made. Both of the types 1/2 and double were not legal for long because of the head failure. This is probably why there is not much information on these nails. I remember them because they were so hard to drive straight even with a waffle hammer.


Process of removing mold from behind shower tile

Start out by using a pry bar and snapping the tiles off the drywall. This way you'll avoid cracking and breaking them up. Then remove the drywall by just pulling it off the studs. Then you'll have to go back and pull out all the screws and nails. Hopefully the framing studs will not have to be removed and you can just treat them with some vinegar to kill the mold and mildew. Notice that I said vinegar and not bleach. Bleach kills surface mold but does not sink in to kill the roots whereas vinegar does. If the studs are rotten, best to remove them plate to plate and replace the whole stud. Remember to wear good work gloves because the tile and debris will cut you to shreds. Wear eye protection too along with a dust mask.


Is it okay to drill a ground rod through pavement?

It is fine to drill a hole in pavement to drive the rod.

How do you attach clamps and wire if it is driven flush? My city inspector wanted to be able to see the manufacturer's stampings on the end of the rod to prove that I had not cut it off short (providing less than required soil contact), I was specifically required to leave several inches exposed.


Handy Box Extension on a Plastic wall box

There are extension rings that fit over a standard single gang ring

Like any metal box, you'd have to bond the box to the EGC (green / bare wire) with a grounding screw or clip.

It will work just as shown in the photo for a single gang ring.  I learned in a comment below, you can rotate the box 90* and the four holes in the back of the box will line up for a double gang ring.


How can I add a 3-way switch to my light? (confused about existing wiring)

Assuming this is the setup you have described:

You will need to pull a new 12/3 cable to your new 3-way switch. You will also have to replace your existing switch with a 3-way switch. Your wiring setup will look like this:

Because your lighting circuit's power is supplied by a conductor in a 12/3 cable, the figures above were modified as follows:

POWER SOURCE / 2-Wire Romex with Ground (i.e. 12-2) - I modified these to show your 12/3 wire with your RED supplying the power to your lighting circuit (since you described the BLACK in your 12/3 as being spliced into a bunch of other black conductors). From here, everything else should be one-to-one.


This looks like a sewer "cleanout". This would connect about 4 ft below ground to your sewer line from your house to the city sewer. If you are lucky it is only the top that is damaged, but it could be the thrust damaged it at the bottom. In the latter case you will have a more involved repair.
You could carefully dig out around it, remove the damaged part and look in using a flashlight. Probably you should get a plumber to send TV camera down and get a good look.


There is no one appropriate humidity level. In the dry, cold north household humidity must be below 20% during certain weather to prevent massive condensation on windows, which can result in damage. Here's a chart showing approximate levels for different outside temperatures:

Read more

I agree with the comments above indicating that you likely have an allergen issue. Moisture alone doesn't typically result in respiratory distress. Lack of moisture can certainly be irritating, however.


What happens when using a GFCI Tester on a non-GFCI outlet?

If the outlet, does not have test and reset buttons, it is clearly not a GFCI itself. However, it is possible that another outlet or circuit-breaker in the line before it has been wired to protect that outlet, as well. No harm will be done testing a non-GFCI outlet using the GFCI tester, but if it does trigger an interrupter elsewhere, you'll need to locate that to reset it.

That said, an outdoor outlet definitely should have GFCI protection, whether 'upstream' or intrinsic. If the GFCI tester does not trigger a protection device, a GFCI outlet should be installed ASAP!