Rewiring for doorbell, is idea up to code?

Wow, now that I see your picture, this thing is a hatchet job.

No, no.  That transformer cannot just be stuffed loose in a plastic (!!) Box.  There is no separation between mains and low voltage.  What a fiasco.

I would extract the doorbell wiring from the box and bring it out to the wall through a hole outside the box.  Now, with only mains wiring in the box, I would install 2 standard receptacles (path of least challenge) with 2-gang cover plate, and fit up a plug-in "wall wart" transformer for the doorbell.  Use another socket for any bog standard USB supply from the local gas station.

It's all about separation

There should be a metal curtain between your mains and low-voltage wiring.  This is where we get into mains wiring methods.  This separation is easy with doorbell transformers; they make transformers that mount on a 1/2" knockout or a  junction box cover plate. The mains wiring is contained; the 24V comes out to open screw terminals.

This concept of "metal curtain" must be respected. The single best way to achieve that is to install a common receptacle and plug a quality USB power supply (Apple iPad is my pick) in the receptacle.

Install any common 1-gang deep "handy-box" steel junction box right next to the doorbell box.  That holds the receptacle.  Assuming the power supply cable going into the doorbell box is full-current-rated, reroute it into the handy-box instead, remembering minimum slack (6" of wires free inside the box).
Connect from the handy-box into the old doorbell box.  I'm a conduit person so I would go into a standard knockout via a steel conduit nipple to the handy-box, and use THHN wire between; this also carries ground to the metal doorbell box.  But you could use a few inches of appropriate Romex (most places sell it by the foot, remember 6" tail on each end).  Or alternately, just install a power cord (with strain relief) on the doorbell box.
Wire it up in the usual, Code-legal way, so both the receptacle and doorbell box get power.

In all things mains, hook up safety ground first always, and never disconnect it, not even for troubleshooting (it's never the problem).

Plug the USB power supply into one socket, and (if needed) the doorbell box's new line cord into the other.


My obligatory "get well-rounded knowledge" statement: the scenic way is to find an accessible-feeling book on the subject and read it through. Google is dangerous, that will leave you with swiss cheese knowledge. It only answers questions, and you need a well-rounded primer to know which questions to ask.

Anyway you are on the right track.  Your measurements at the switch are valuable, and normal.  The reason the readings surprise you (especially re: neutral) is that switches don't use neutral. That wire is not neutral.  They connect (or don't) two wire functions: always-hot, and switched-hot.  Neutral is not in play on a switch, unless it's a modern smart switch.

Voltage will always be zero (ish) across a switch with a broken lamp.  If the switch is on, the two terminals are both 120V.  If off, always-hot is 120V and switched-hot is unconnected/isolated becuse the lamp is broken, so no voltage between them.  If the lamp was working, it would pull the switched-hot line toward neutral, so you'd see 120V across the open (gapped) switch.

Powering back up to check the voltage across the bare wires outside is a reasonable next step, just be careful.  120V across them would indicate a fixture fault, 0V would reveal a wiring fault.

* most authorities think changing a light switch, receptacle or light fixture is too small a job to justify pulling a permit, so I interpret that as "too small to justify hiring an electrician", hence, handyman.


According to Hardhat Engineer, the correct term to use is stud bolt.  While a stud bolt frequently (most often?) is used where one end is screwed permanently into a fixed part, like the dictionary says (think of the stud bolts for a cylinder head), it can also apparently refer to a bolt with a nut on each end as shown below

I agree that this looks like threaded rod, but I do not think that threaded rod is necessarily designed for the stress encountered in a bolting application.


How do I connect 1/4" plastic tube to 3/8" plastic tube?

Watts connector described has a push-in connector for poly tubing. What size is the push-in connector for? You cut off the poly with a sharp knife and push it into the fitting if it's the proper size.

Other options, Universal Dishwasher drain coupler. Usually, they come with a new disposer. They look something like this. If you search online, all sorts of sizes are available.

Also, given that 1/4" tubing is a standard size, you can adapt it up in size to 3/8" by using an appropriate brass compression fitting. I'm assuming that it is hard poly and barb fittings won't work as it isn't flexible enough. The compression fitting ring will have bite into its surface enough to seal and hold. For Vinyl and Poly type tubing, they make a brass insert so the compressing fitting has better bite. Shown is a sample of a union coupler with inserts, what you need will have to be selected for your situation


What is the correct connections for a Murray MP215AFC breaker for a Split A/C unit

Use whatever terminals you need.  For instance if you were using this breaker on a 120V circuit, hook up neutral and one hot*, and leave the other hot empty. If using on a 240V only circuit, yes - simply hook up the hots and leave neutral empty.  0 current will flow, and the device will correctly compute differential currents (for its GFCI functionality).

There's one asterisk. The AFCI needs neutral to power itself.  So you need to hook up the neutral pigtail.  We figured this out when helping a Philippine resident set up GFCI protection for some bathroom circuits; they use North American style equipment but with neutral omitted. In that case we had to add a small transformer to synthesize a 120V center-point (quasi-neutral) to power the AFCIs.  We couldn't use ground because neutral is not ground.

It is good that you realize not to misuse ground to fill the empty terminal in the breaker.  If you had connected ground to both the ground bar and LOAD neutral, it would have tripped. If you had connected ground to ONLY the breaker, fault current would be misrouted through the AFCI causing too high an impedance for prompt breaker trip, and the GFCI section of this AFCI would see that fault current as normal current, breaking GFCI. So I'm glad you had the horse sense not to do that.

For reference, neutral is not ground, they have completely different jobs, and entangling/confusing them breaks their safety jobs. The confusion often arises because people see the neutral-ground equipotential bond in the main panel, and this bond is often done informally e.g. with grounds and neutrals going to the same bar. You'll never see that in a panel I do; I prefer bonds I can put a clamp meter around.

* wait what?  What?  Use this breaker on a 120V circuit!??  Yes, you can use a 240V breaker to power one or two independent 120V circuits.  In fact, when people have a need for a 30A/120V circuit, I recommend they use a 30A/2-pole breaker, because those have many other applications, and a 30A/1-pole has almost no practical use.


Easy way to tell 12awg from 14awg metal clad?

Take a piece of #12 scrap wire and compare it to what you have. If the wire is the same it is 12, If the wire is larger usually #10 if smaller #14 other than an electric range # 14,12 & 10 will be everything except  the range it will be much larger. These are the sizes used in a 1940’s era homes for the most part.


Bent Door Hinge & Partially Broken Frame

If the door slammed so hard that it squeezed past the door stop then the thing that you will have to do is to remove the door stop so that you can try to wedge the door back to it's correct side of the opening. Once that is achieved you can proceed to replace the hinges with new ones and then finally reinstall the door stop.

This picture shows what I refer to as the door stop molding:

(Picture Source: http://www.agnewtimber.com/12-x-44-pre-primed-whitewood-ogee-door-stop-door-set.php?cat=99)


How to fix a slightly raised stair nosing board

If the top step is slightly higher than the hardwood flooring it shouldn't be much of a problem to pull it up and plane down the underside to the thickness you're seeking. You just don't want to overdo it. Be patient in removing the stair slat to prevent splitting.
EDIT
If the stair is mortised into the stringer the only realistic solution is to carefully use a sanding block to bevel the back edge of the step to reduce the risk. If you can keep the bevel area narrow and not impact the flooring you might be able to apply a matching stain and seal to the bevel that will be acceptable visually.


When is the best period to fix a door frame?

Well the big thing you're going to notice is just humidity will change it a lot.  If you want a door that closes properly year round, then the best time would be when it is not too humid, or not too dry (i.e spring would be fine).  This way when it gets humid or dry, you minimize the amount of warping the frame goes through


Nema 14-50 40A outlet for electric car: one gang box (plastic or metal) and cable size ...code?

I'm betting this is a Tesla charger, which draws 40A. You cannot load a 40A breaker at 40A continuously (defined as 3 hours or more), you can only load it to 32A (80%) because technically, a 40A breaker is designed to protect 40A rated conductors, which by code must be sized at 125% of the continuous load. So you need conductors rated for 50A and a 50A breaker, it wasn't a suggestion on their part. If you ran #6 conductors and wanted to protect them with a 40A breaker, technically that would not violate Code, but you are likely to have nuisance tripping of that breaker. That's a nasty surprise to find out about in the morning when you want to drive to work...


Can bushes help keep driveway and patio gravel stable?

Since there is an area of direct contact between the patio and driveway, the bushes won't serve as a separator (between your "two distinct species of gravel") there. They will not, of themselves, "contain" the patio gravel, either - it can be kicked into them easily. For both of those reasons I would suggest some sort of "hardscape" (brick, paver, etc) edge completely encircling the patio to serve those functions. At minimum an edging strip.
Bushes will help to stabilize the slope and can certainly be planted on a slope. Choose the right (fruiting) bushes and they can also provide a snack at certain times of the year.


How can I determine the rating of an unmarked dual-pole circuit breaker?

I am assuming you mean there is no marking on the handle or front of the breaker (since that is all you see with the electric panel cover still on).

If that is the case, there should be at least a part number on the side of the breaker, which can be looked up online if the rating isn't part of the part number.

But you will have to turn off the power, unscrew the panel cover, and pull out the breaker to see it. Only do this if you are comfortable installing and removing breakers.  If you aren't sure you know how to do it safely, call an electrician.


Can I use these tree stumps for a table?

I would not let the bugs remain either, If it is cold outside where you are now as it is here in MD USA, the warm inside temps will make the bugs quite active again. I had that happen with a cherry burl I was turning, luckily I put it in a large clear plastic bag solely for the purpose of slowing moisture loss to reduce checking. After a few days I checked the bag and there were hundreds of carpenter ants crawling around inside.
The varnish, or any paint, even wax that seals the end grain will reduce the amount of rapid moisture loss, and there for reduce the amount of checking. Without the sealer, it will split more aggressively.


What is the best way to repair MDF furniture?

For holes that are the right shape, but worn, add some wood glue, and screw it back in.
For a little extra friction, stick a little piece of one of those plastic coffee stirs in there too.

If chunks of mdf have broken off with your screw, you'll need to cut some more away,
and glue a replacement block in place.

It's important to use a clamp when gluing pieces together. Then lightly sand (just to rough the surface), clean, and prime, before repainting.


Do I need to worry about rain water getting into the open ground socket?

You would do well to pull some slack to that extension cord and arrange the plugs so that they at least face down. It is not just the GND terminal of the extension cord that is of concern. You also have the open prong holes on the stackable Christmas tree light string that is facing up.

Water that gets into the electrical plug contacts raises the most concern that it can and will lead to corrosion on the metal contacts.

I have found that a better overall solution is to arrange the Christmas light installation so that plugs and extension cords are terminated up under the roof overhang.


How can I light picture frames from the floor?

If you have the room on the floor, then you can get a floor mounted track style fixture.  These have a weighted base with the transformer in them to make them harder to knock over or move.

The only downside of using these are;

If they accidentally get moved into a couch or something like that it could become a fire issue.
If you cannot move it out from the wall because of restrictive space you might end up with a lighting technique called wall grazing.  This would cause the bottom of your frame (if it is a traditional wooden frame that stick out past the cloth itself) to cast a shadow across the painting.

The upsides are;

The lamps used have various beam spreads and wattages available for use.
LED's are made to be retrofitted into these by only changing the lamp.
If it works out you don't have to get on a ladder and hang track lighting.

I've seen renters (don't know if you are or not) hang track lighting and use something to hide the wire and just plug it into the wall and use a plug in dimmer to control the lights.  Then when they move they take it away.

The picture came from here.  Good Luck!


Can I put crushed stone on top of sand base for brick patio?

Sand only is acceptable if it’s “contained”.
Sand is an excellent bearing material, but it tends to get washed away by rain.  Sand has small particles that can be washed away allowing the base to settle (often at different amounts).
If the upper part of base is too high and could get washed away, you could put 3/4” minus crushed rock on top, compact it, and then put the bricks on top.
Using a 1” layer of sand on the top allows you to easily install the bricks level. But if you make the crushed rock level and you install directly on top of the sand...and the sand will be contained low enough not to be washed away...the base will remain intact.


I have a light dent in my wooden door, what is the best way to fix it?

You could try a steam iron over a linen cloth it works on dents on solid wood. I appears on the picture your dent might be a break in the wood. Give the steam a try.


What brand are these pex threaded T connectors?

These are actualy "Qest" (pronounced "quest") brand fittings that were more popular 10-15 years ago (maybe further back).  I remember in the early 2000's these were sold at Home Depot and Lowes back before they had very much PEX plumbing supplies.  They were common in mobile homes.

Here is a sample at a plumbing supply retailer:

https://www.ferguson.com/product/qest-plastic-compression-tee-assembly-qqat/_/A-ProdFamily-216224


Are there masks that will reduce polyurethane's VOCs?

Yes, their are things that help with polyurethane fumes, masks with volatile organic vapor cartridges, usually activated charcoal.

VOCs are not particles of "stuff" so a particulate filter (N95, P95, Etc) does not help with them.  This means a typical size in microns is also irrelevant because you are dealing with molecular size when it comes to vapors.

The particulate filters help with solids like dust and dirt, but not vapors.

Organic vapor cartridges absorb the vapors in the cartridge like a sponge absorbs water.  A sponge does not clog like a filter but gets saturated.  An organic cartridge also gets saturated by vapors and eventually needs replaced; but not because it is clogged.

You use a pre-filter with organic vapor cartridges to capture the particulates (solids) before the vapor cartridge.

I use a 3M half face mask with a 3M organic vapor cartriges and P95 prefilters for things with VOC's.  I can spray cabinets with laquer (lots of VOCs) inside and not smell a bit of the fumes where my wife walks in and almost gets knocked over by them.  Since paint has VOCs we also use the same organic cartridges when spraying the interior of a house.

The mask can also take particulate filters so we use those as well when in really dusty environments for prolonged periods of time such as during demo during a remodel.  Remodel dust does not have any dangerous vapors (they have already vaporized) so we do not need the bulkiness of the organic cartridges.


Is it beneficial to point a fan at the intake of a portable air conditioner?

In addition to Henry's sensible comments (what a clever little boy!), I would like to add for general public consumption that the accordion duct/hose is only 3-4 ft long for a very good reason. After running the AC for a few hours, put your hand on the exhaust hose and you will feel lots of HEAT. Stringing a longer hose extension in the room would be like rigging a hot stove pipe extension...You need to place your so-called 'portable' AC as close to the venting window as possible, never more than 3 ft between unit and window including angles (which should be as minimal as possible). The less the accordion unfolds, the less heat the hose will emit on its way to the window outlet.

Calling these units 'portable' is kind of deceptive; you can't really move them around the room at will once installed without disturbing the exhaust system, especially if you put insulation around the exhaust at the window end. They should really be called just 'floor' models as opposed to 'window' models...


How long do you wish this to last? A week? A year? 3 years? 10 years?

OSB will tend to absorb water. It will come apart when subjected to rain, sun, snow, (repeat). This will take less time to happen than you may like. It is simply not designed to resist the elements for any serious period of time.

But if all you want is something that will work for a few weeks or a couple of months one summer, it will suffice. Just don't expect it to be serviceable as a deck surface in a year or so. I suppose that a good coat of a high quality paint will slow things down, but a deck surface is flat. Snow and rain will collect on it and stay there. This will wet the wood, and keep it wet, a bad thing.

As for those 2x4s, are they treated? Again, if these will be in ground contact (something must touch the ground) then they won't last too many years either. Bugs like untreated wood. Water will get into it, so expect it to rot at some point.


Can I substitute halogen bulbs for incandescent bulbs?

Each socket (and the wire associated with it) is rated for its maximum wattage. While the overall wattage in the fixture may be less than the maximum allowed, the wattage in two of the sockets will be over, although only by about 8%. Most equipment is fairly conservatively rated, but it will not be compliant. And halogens do run hot.

Have you considered using LED bulbs instead. 60 watt equivalents use about 10 watts each. The price is dropping to less than $8 a bulb and they are rated to last for decades. Savings in electricity will probably pay for them in a little more than a year.


Bathroom exhaust fan and light wiring question

Yes.
Or, probably a better solution, you can simply join the fan, power, and light wires all together in a single wire nut (3 nuts: black, white, green/bare copper). To be clear: this will result in your light and your fan always being on or off together.
However, if you can possibly run another set of wires (typically a set of 12/2 or 14/2 "Romex" - a black, a white, and a bare copper wire bundled into a plastic sheath) from the switch to the junction box for the fan/light, I would encourage you to do so. They sell duplex switches that will put two switches into a one-gang box, so you can separately control the lights and the fan.


Why is the first shower of the day is colder than the second?

This manual for a State Select gas-fired water heater states "Due to the nature of the typical gas water heater, the
water temperature in certain situations may vary up to
30°F higher or lower at the point of use such as, bathtubs,
showers, sink, etc.
This means that when the temperature adjustment dial is
set at the mark approximating 120°F, the actual water
temperature at any hot water tap could be as high as
150°F or as low as 90°F." (page 16).

Given your low temperature setting, it seems pretty likely that you are experiencing the expected behavior for this unit.   You might consult a plumber to see if you could get a more consistent temperature by setting the thermostat higher and installing a mixing valve to regulate the temperature to your desired level.    This might also give you an option to have hotter water available to certain locations (i.e., dishwasher) that don't present a risk to your kids.


Your thermostat cable coming from the wall appears to have only 2 wires. Therefore the thermostat can only send one command: everything on, or everything off. (This is very common in older systems.)
In order to get separate fan control, you would need at least three wires, but at the other end of the cable, the furnace would also need to be wired for this option.
To determine whether this is possible, examine your furnace and update your question with photos of the wiring diagram (if you can find it) and how the thermostat wires are currently connected to the furnace's control board.


Why did my house lights flicker when I was using kitchen appliances?

It turned out not to be an overload, but a bad leg coming into the meter box. Apparently, with all the rain, water had seeped into the underground box (which eventually connects into the meter box), causing arcing. So one leg was 120, the other 20; half the house wasn’t getting power. Being a first-time homeowner, it never occurred to me to check the meter box. I unnecessarily hired an electrician to diagnose a problem that was the power company’s responsibility. The power company repairman told me that if the meter is blank or the numbers aren’t moving, then that’s the indicator it’s on the power company side. I feel the electrician should have noticed that before he opened up the meter and charged a diagnostic fee.


What direction should lever-style door handles be oriented?

Use your ADA manual fella's. The upward curve on the handle end could get hung up on a disabled person's cuff, clothing, wrist watch, hand bag, etc. Usually not much of a big deal, right? Unill the building is on fire or a natural disaster, earthquake. Anything can happen in race for life. ADA people need all the help they can get in a calamity, residential, institutional or commercial


Do I need gypsum with orange peel to do a reasonable color test?

You could paint cardboard with the Kilz first as well to seal it, then your paint. I wouldn't go to the extra trouble of buying gypsum and especially putting a texture on it first. That sounds like overkill.


Will I be able to replace the tub and shower fixtures in my apartment home myself?

Given that it's an apartment the plumbing would most likely have to be done by a licensed plumber, check with the landlord/building manager and local government.

In some places the work can be done by anybody, but must be inspected at different stages by a licensed professional and/or the local government.


Nope. It has to be done anyway or you'll have cracking. Some pro tapers prefill recessed joints anyway, then do their taping.

Put it on and skim out nice and wide to conceal the hump. Such a joint should end up around 24" wide, much like a typical end joint.


When, if at all, are Insulation Resistance (or Megger) tests on an electrical system useful?

I would be more worried about fused breaker contacts and damaged breakers from the lightning surge. I can't say whether or not lightning damaged your wire insulation but megging isn't a guarantee either. $150 per circuit is highway robbery. Sure there is labor involved but no more than a few hours at most.

As for the circuit breakers, depending on your panel box, it might be cheaper to replace them than bother testing them. Testing requires calibrated equipment which is expensive and not in a standard electricians tool box. They are only a few bucks each anyway.

The important question is how long ago was your last lightning strike? If it was years ago and everything has been working properly, I'd leave it alone.

I was the victim of a strike some years back. An old TV antenna on the chimney  was struck. The surge blew out my TV, PC and a few wall warts. Thankfully the devices that were blown were switching supplies with enough isolation that the surge blew the mains side. The TV and PC required new power supplies. The wall warts were cheap. Didn't bother megging anything as the current took the short path through my TV and computer. Did all the work myself.

My "forensic analysis" revealed the antenna wiring allowed the surge current to go through an antenna amplifier to the 120V outlet and on to other appliances. I had the antenna removed when the roof was redone that same year so its a non issue now. I also bought a bunch of quality name brand surge protectors for my more sensitive/expensive appliances.

How do you protect your home from lightning?
If you have/need an antenna, get a good lightning arrestor on the line with a very secure connection to ground. Same goes for coax cable for cable TV and the like. And by secure, I mean a wire ran right to a ground rod or water main. Not some jenky "wrap wire around the nearest pipe looking thing" I see a lot of cable techs make. It's also helpful to get a ground line from a rod ran to the antenna. Give the surge current the fastest, low impedance path to ground. Use green #10 gauge wire for the antenna/cable wires and #6 bare copper for the antenna mast. Next up is to ensure your electric service is properly grounded. You may need to hire an electrician for this. Ensure the panel is properly bonded and all ground wires are in fact connected. Next up is to make sure all of your pipes are also bonded and grounded. Things like jumpers for gas, heating and water pipes. And if you are in a very strike prone area, perhaps lightning rods on the roof would be a good idea. Buy quality surge arrestor outlet strips or wall adapters; no low price junk 99 cent store specials. And finally, a whole house arrestor isn't a bad idea either as long as it is a good name brand.


Absolutely. My 26 year old Minnesota home has full cedar treatment and looks great today.

That's not to say that you can simply leave it raw, or seal it once and forget it. Sun and rain constantly work at it, so plan on applying a high-quality penetrating oil product initially and every 3-5 years thereafter.


Chances are one of your breakers is in fact tripped, but the handle does not appear to be tripped.  Try turning them all off, then back on one by one.  Knowing which breaker really goes where is handy -- a breaker finder tool may be available at a local tool lending library.

If it's really the wire between outlets, then look in the "live" room.  One of those outlets will have a feed wire, another will have the daisy chain wire to your "dead" room.  Perhaps that backstab has failed.

A voltmeter is a good investment.


which part of shaded-pole motor is electrified?

A shaded pole motor is driven by the coil (all the copper windings on one side)  the laminated plates make the magenet and the EMF for the rotor to spin, but the rotor has potential, if a gfci is trips on a motor of this type it's a bad GFCI or a leakage of the windings to ground, in my experiance the gfci has problems because shaded pole motors that spin up have not been the problem,


The breaker is sized for the protection of the wire and device. The disconnect must be sized larger than the current flowing through so that it doesn't burn up, but is just a switch.

If the AC unit says that it's breaker should be a max of 20A, then use a 20A breaker.

However, just to be clear, you can't change out the breaker to match the unit if the wire sizes are still too small. Since it says to use a 20A, the wires should be 12 gauge or larger. Any smaller and they could burn up before the breaker would trip.


How should I transition between cement board floor and alcove tub?

I think you have a good plan except do not fill the gap with thinset, leave a small gap between the cement board and the tub and fill with caulk.
You could apply some of the Mapei on the first few inches of the cement board.


How should I insulate this basement wall?

Drylock is of questionable benefit, IMHO. It's definitely not a solution to a leaky basement...but it sounds like you've done some regrading already which should help with that.

The reason basements are often musty isn't so much from water from the outside but condensation. Basements are humid and cool, so the walls tend to be perpetually wet. The goal, then is to insulate the walls so help prevent that moist air from hitting the cool wall.

When using fiberglass, that's permeable to the air, so the solution is traditionally to put up a plastic vapor barrier. However, if water does leak in from outside, you've now trapped it.

As such, I strongly recommend going with the Building Sciences corporations recommendation of using XPS foam board against the wall and no additional vapor barrier. The XPS acts as a moisture retarder, yet will let moisture eventually dry through from one side to the other.

I went in to much more detail (including my recommendation to use metal framing rather than wood) with this answer here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/8644/1209

When finished, the other objective is to try and reduce the humidity in the basement. If you can bring the basement space into being part of the conditioned space, that's ideal. Alternatively, keep that dehumidifier running.

To answer the specific questions:

  Is drylock sufficient to use R-15 batt? Or should I skip it entirely?

In terms of creating an insulated finished space, Drylock is of no use. The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moist air from getting to a surface to condense on. The concrete wall will still be cool regardless of Drylock.

  If not then should I put in EPS/XPS? (again Drylock?)

Yes to the EPX/XPS (see my linked answer above).

  Would I really need more than that?

Code should dictate what is required. Check your local authorities regarding the amount of insulation you need. EPX/XPS will get you more R-value per inch than fiberglass.

In terms of comfort, the biggest culprits in a basement will be air infiltration, the upper exposed part of the foundation, and the space between the floor joists. Focus on those as well.


Well, turns out that repeated slamming of the front entry door isn't good for many things, electrical connections included.

I finally had a chance to open the outdoor sconce yesterday and saw that one of the neutral white wires had sort of slipped out of its wirenut, and wasn't holding on very well to the others. I don't know why this resulted in lower voltage going through instead of arcing, but that's probably a good thing.

Fixing this was a simple matter of winding the tip of this loose wire a bit deeper and screwing in the wirenut a little stronger than it already was. Did this to the hot black and bare ground wires too, and the light's as good as new now.

Lesson learnt? Electrical gremlins don't need to be caused by faulty installation, sometimes things that you don't expect to break (like immobile wirenuts) also loosen up due to mechanical vibrations.

Next step? Trying to convince the family that slamming doors isn't a good idea, but that's a battle I'm not going to win in any case.


trying to wire a light fixture in a 1923 house with knob and tube wiring

Do not trust the voltage pen to be accurate. I've seen them light up when I have had the entire house power turned off. I got out a real mulit-meter, and it showed that it was dead. Even though the voltage stick still lit up.  Verify with an actual meter. This very well might change the story.


First, you can only connect one wire to a screw. If you need to connect multiple, then you create a pigtail by cutting a short piece of wire and attaching one end to the screw, and the other end is connected to the other wires with a wire nut.

Second, you need to figure out which cable provides the power to the box. Most likely it is the cable without the red wire.

Once you know which cable provides the power, then any black or red wire you want powered all the time gets connected to this black wire with a wirenut. You should also pigtail this wire to one of the terminals on your switch. Any red or black wire that you want controlled by the switch should be connected to the other screw of the switch, with a pigtail if necessary.

In general, ceiling lights with black and red wires are wired so that the black wire is for a light and the red wire is for a ceiling fan. Similarly, the black wire to an outlet typically provides continuous power, while the red wire is connected to a switch. In either case, if the red wire is unused, then you should wirenut both ends.


Is it normal for a power strip/plugs to have a metallic smell?

Well, the second one has a UL stamp on the front, and usually the Chinese junk makers aren't brazen enough to put that.  But the proof of the pudding is in the File number - a 6 or 7 digit code that should be right under the UL mark either on the packaging, instructions or labeling.

The first one is on Amazon, and it isn't being sold so it's impossible to see if it's "Shipped from and sold by Amazon.com" or "Sold by XXXXX and fulfilled by Amazon".  The latter is the Amazon Marketplace, which is a cr*pstream of the cheapest junk off Alibaba, barcode stuck on it, and sent to the Amazon warehouse.  Needless to say, none of that stuff has a UL listing with file number.  Both this and stuff direct shipped from China seem to evade Customs.

Regardless, even a UL-listed item can fail. Exemplars of the item have been fully tested, but that does not mean every production unit is good.

Power strips should not "smell funny".  And, proof of the pudding, they should definitely not get warm, certainly not with 500W+50W+50W that you describe as your load.

Needless to say, mains electric is nothing to trifle with.  It is a common source of house fires via shabby appliances, hence the need for UL listings*.  I am very reluctant to use plastic power strips at all, and I hit garage sales and Goodwill looking for metal ones; even a damaged metal one can often be repaired.

* UL standing for "Underwriter's Laboratories", and "Underwriter" being another name for "insurer" such as the company providing your homeowner's fire insurance.


Two mysterious white thermostat wires in an unfinished wall outlet near the floor -- what?

These wires could be from any low voltage system. Some definite possibilities, besides a thermostat, include:

Doorbell
Security System (aka Burglar Alarm) - each sensor typically uses two wires
Telephone - unlikely because normally telephone wires will be in pairs (or groups of pairs) within a cable rather than individual wires

These may actually be cables containing multiple wires. I couldn't (easily) find an answer for this specific wire - plenty of people selling it but not with very clear descriptions. Strip the white covering off and see what the wires look like inside and post a picture. If there are multiple wires then the colors and/or type of wires may help narrow down the possibilities.

The trick is finding the other end. I would check around any breaker panels, telephone panel (aka Network Interface), security system (if you have one), doorbells (if you have any), etc. Look anywhere that has a lot of wires to see if there is a pair of unused wires/cables that match this pair.


How realistic is DIY sharpening of scissors on a stone?

Like all projects a certain amount of skill and the proper tools are needed to sharpen scissors correctly.

A 120 stone is not fine enough to put a fine edge on a pair of scissors. Something a lot finer would be needed.

Many knifes are sharpened on both sides of the blade. Normal scissors are sharpened on the angled side of the blade. Some scissors can be disassembled to make sharpening easier, others cannot.

If your scissors are valuable, take them to a sharpening service. They should come back good as new.

If your scissors are not worth paying to have them sharpened, and are too dull to use, try sharpening them yourself. You will learn how well a 120 stone works for this task. You may find you have an interest in sharpening things. Or you may find you need to buy a new pair of scissors.

If you do try sharpening them yourself, be careful. Even dull scissors can cut your fingers.


How to fix a floating wall shelf on an uneven wall

Solar Mike provides one excellent option of cutting off the back edge of the shelf that sticks out.

If you don't have a saw (or the ability to cut a reasonably straight line) you could shim out the "short" shelf so it sticks out as far as the other one.

As an added bonus, it appears that there is some trim below the shelf that would hide the thickness of the shims so they wouldn't be obvious from below!

Based on the update to the OP that includes pictures of the mounting systems, I'd suggest that the best method would be to attach a wood shim to the wall behind the short shelf, then mount the shelf to that.

I'd guess that the gap is about 1/2" so adjust based on actual measurements.

Get/cut a strip of material 1/2" thick.

Many big-box hardware stores will cut lumber for you if you purchase it there.)

Attach this to the studs in the wall using screws of the same approximate size (bigger will never hurt!) as those that came with the shelf kit.

Note that these screws are an additional purchase, get them at the same time as the shims themselves.

Attach the mounting screws to this strip of wood
Attach the shelf to the mounting screws.

You might be able to get away with replacing the screws that came with the shelf with longer screws that are the same diameter. (For example, if those are 2" #8 wood screws, get 3" #8 wood screws. Take the screws to your local hardware store and compare them to what they have in stock to find out what size they are.) I say might because you're going to have the shelf hanging farther from the wall than it's intended to. This makes it a longer lever and amplifies the stress that the weight of items on the shelf will apply to the screws in the wall. For a couple of stuffed animals/figurines, you'll probably be fine - books, not so much.

Once you've got the longer screws in the wall, leave them sticking out far enough to accommodate the shims and the extra needed for mounting. This may take some fiddling to get them to just the right depth to accommodate the shims/mounting, but still be snug enough for a firm mount.

You could still scribe the back of the longer shelf to match the wall, but that's likely going to shorten the space for the long support rods for that shelf, so you'd need to trim a little bit off the length of those to match. If you don't have the proper wood cutting tools, you probably also don't have the proper metal cutting tools.

Note: I'm assuming you don't have the proper tools, please forgive me if that's an incorrect assumption.


It is in principle possible to run a 240V load off a 120V supply using a transformer.

However you must understand that transformers can trade off voltage for current but they can't magic power out of thin air. The feed supplying the transformer must cover both the power requirements of the load and the losses in the transformer. Power is proportional to voltage times current (if the power factor was 1 it would be equal to voltage times current).

In other words if a transformer is converting 120V to 240V then the input current will be more than double the output current.

The problem you will run into is if an air conditioner designed for the US market requires 240V then it probablly requires more power than can be supplied by a normal domestic socket.

  I am looking at this unit  https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-FFRH2522R2-Window-Mounted-Room-Conditioner/dp/B00VV2JORQ/ref=sr_1_10?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1525402023&sr=1-10&keywords=16000+btu
   https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Product-Support--Manuals/?productCode=FFRH2522R2

https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Product-Support--Manuals/?productCode=FFRH2522R2 claims that unit takes 11.3 amps, double that and add some overhead for the transformer and you would be looking at around 25 amps from your 120V supply. Regular domestic sockets in the USA are rated at at best 20A and more commonly 15A. Furthremore those are only intermittant ratings.

Sorry but you either need to find a smaller AC unit that will run off a normal doestic socket or you need to get an electrian in.


First, make sure the fixture is switched off.

Using a small piece of cloth, to protect your fingers in case the bulb breaks, grab the bulb firmly near the base, and rock it slightly back and forth (left to right), so that you are alternately pulling on one pin, then the other.   Once the pins start to move you will probably be able to pull it straight out.

If the bulb does break, you should be able to remove the remaining parts with a pair of needle-nose pliers; be sure to apply the force in the direction the pins are pointing so that you don't break them off.


How do I replace oven insulation that has been soiled by mice and smells bad?

I'm so sorry for your loss.  A Viking is a terrible thing to waste. Disassembling a Viking oven/range is not a job for a DIYer.  Look for a restaurant supplier in your area or a  Viking dealer to get a competent tech to do the work and bite the bullet and have it fixed right.  The insulation is not something you can buy at the local Home Depot. It uses a specialty high temp spun fabric insulation . If the job is not done properly, it will be a FIRE HAZARD!!!!  This is a  safety issue not worth saving a few bucks on. The Viking is worth saving if you can.


Do building codes enforce location with regard to plumbing rough-in?

There are really no code requirements to be met with respect to location other than meeting clearances and that sort of thing. For example, a toilet must be so far from walls to the side. Anything else is a matter of prerogative and your contract.

It sounds like you have a contract dispute here, and that's off-topic on this network. If you approved a plan, and if the plumbing was installed according to plan, you'll have to fix it yourself. Otherwise, I'd expect the builder to do it.


Antique Schlage Door Knob - Can't reassemble

This seems to be the solution, so far.  (I will know for sure, once it's on the door).  The little (moveable) tab that holds the finishing plate on bottom is holding the retaining clip, with gravity keeping it down.  Both finishing plate and door knob seem secure.  Somehow, I pictured this in a tighter area when I took it off a month ago.

Another lesson I learned.  Take photos when disassembling.  I had originally planned to replace the door knob so saw no need to.  It would've been too difficult of a project to replace. And I didn't want to end up getting an entire new door if I couldn't find an exact match or didn't measure a for new one's location properly.

Also, I was "almost 100% sure" the clip went on the front of that silver back plate with the finishing plate in front of it.  It looks like I was 100% wrong.


What size drain is required for a washing machine?

You're correct, the requirement for washing machine drain is 2".
To determine if you have enough drain capacity for an additional machine, you need to consult the Uniform Plumbing Code's Drainage Fixture Unit values and ensure the total fixtures don't exceed the capacity of the drain for your laundry room (or plan an upgrade.)
These tables should help get you started:

Fixture values https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/drainage-fixture-unit-values-d_1077.html
Drain capacity per pipe size in stacks & branches https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/drainage-fixture-units-piping-load-d_1078.html


Should a special type of paint be used on a forced air HVAC heat register?

If you mean the registers used in forced air HVAC then they are not really exposed to any extreme temperatures that would warrant a special paint.  I would imagine that the most common type of paint used is a matt or metallic spray paint.  Clean them well before painting and make sure to paint in a well ventilated area!


Repairing wall near shower and floor - drywall repair

The first question is, has the leak been addressed? It’s difficult to tell from the photo the cause of the leak. If you feel it has been adequately fixed, then continue with your repair. What you’ve done looks good. The previous work inside the wall is not pretty.

Next steps: Using fiberglass tiling tape, seal the seams between existing wallboard and new backerboard and between the two pieces you’ve installed. Apply mastic/mortar to match depth of existing wall board. Depending on the difference between the two surfaces, you may have to do two application of mortar to match depth.

While you can use the tile mastic, Thinset mortar mix is somewhat better for this application. The difference is the bond created. The mastic makes a chemical bond and the mortar makes a mechanical bond. Regardless, make sure to seal up all exposed area. Allow all new seams to dry completely before next steps.

Once dry, you can now reset the tiles. Be certain to use a notched trowel to apply mortar/mastic for proper setting and curing. The notches provide air into the joint to facilitate curing. After reset is dry, clean area with a tile sponge and plain water. Grout as normal, let dry. Use a premium grout sealer on new install, then a silicone caulking around all tile and to the shower, making certain any old caulking has been removed.

Use joint compound on area not covered by tile. Apply skimcoat of compound over the mortar/mastic you have previously applied, and texture to match existing wall. Sand, and paint as usual.

Finally, I recommend getting a hand steamer to throughly clean and restore the shower rails and existing grout. It really works well to rid all fungus stain and lime build-up without chemicals which will degrade new and existing grout. I use my steamer to clean multiple surfaces; best cleaning tool investment ever.


how to light up ten (10) led downlights with each having 14w power consumption?

One problem with this approach is that LEDs are not incandescent bulbs.

LEDs (stripped of the on-board driver circuit which normally handles that part) are "current mode" devices - that is, an LED driver closely controls the current through the LED, and the voltage may vary. When driving multiple LEDs, they either need to be in series and driven off a driver with enough voltage capacity to run the whole string at the desired current, or you need multiple current controlling circuits.

You cannot simply say that the average voltage they use is 3, 12, 23, or 42 volts and supply that voltage to them in parallel; you must control the current, and if you don't, you'll almost certainly destroy them. If they happen to be 42 volts, running 10 in series is a bit challenging as you'd need a driver capable of supplying 420 (or 400-450) VDC at the appropriate current , while for 3V or 12V modules it's much easier to find drivers that might run 10 in series.

I'm not aware of LED fixture manufacturers providing the information about the drive
requirements of the LED module - certainly none of the 3 fixture types I use has that information in the data sheets, as they are expected to be connected to mains voltage, and the manufacturer does not expect nor support modifying the fixture (including driver) as-built. As such you (or a good electrician who actually understands LEDs) would need to measure a "functioning" fixture to determine what the drive current and general voltage range are in order to choose a driver and wiring scheme sufficient to run 10 fixtures; Unless, of course, the driver modules you are replacing provide that information on themselves.

If you move back to the makers of the actual LED module, (or "light engine" as some call it) there's all sorts of drive data, but it's generally impossible to get a fixture maker to identify the module they use (and it may well change from time to time or batch to batch.)


One of the first things you might want to do is look into the building codes in your area to make sure that the work performed meets code. In Montgomery County, Ohio planked sheathing is considered spaced sheathing. Therefore as roofing contractors, due to code, we have to install 3/8 or 7/16 OSB over-top of the existing planks to meet building code. Many contractors in my area do not know this code, or if they do they just ignore and continue to violate. Hope this helps and best of luck with your situation.

http://www.mcohio.org/services/building/docs/Roofing_Issues_Policy_13RCO.pdf

Can I use the existing roof sheathing?
Section 905.2.1 states “Asphalt shingles shall be fastened to solidly sheathed decks.”
Therefore, if the existing sheathing is in structurally sound, it can be used for the new
installation.
Exception: If the existing roof sheathing is spaced lumber or damaged such that it
will not hold a nail, it must be covered or replaced.


Problem with warped jack stud while converting from door frame to drywalled rough opening

Replacing the jack stud/trimmer isn't terribly difficult. I've done it many times when lengthening headers to increase opening widths. That might be the simplest fix if the king isn't also warped.

Cut the nails penetrating each end with a reciprocating saw - don't cut deeper than 1-1/2" so trim covers the cuts in the drywall
Remove any nails in the face of the stud
Find and remove drywall screws penetrating the stud
Run a pair of longer screws into the stud near one end, leaving them 3/4" proud
Pry the stud out with a bar or large hammer on the screw heads

Otherwise, run some 3" screws in to tighten and straighten the jack as much as it'll go, then rely on your corner bead, which can easily take care of a 1/2" twist (1/4" at each end), for example:

Install your drywall as normal
Set the innermost (opposite) ends of both corner beads
Use a framing square to set the opposite ends square with the previous set opposing ends
Check the bead on the wall face with the square to be sure the bead is slightly proud of the drywall plane. It's easy to pull it in too far, essentially creating a curve in the wall.

Be aware that the second approach might reduce your finished opening width that 1/4".


I would call a bunch of heating guys and scrap dealers in your neighbor hood and see if you can buy another small cast iron radiator. Pipe the two in series and add a thermostatic valve (Danfoss or Honeywell) to the first radiator. It can replace the shut off valve if you have one. Then you would have automatic operation and would not have to rig up any thing else. Hot water is piped in at the top out at the bottom. The rad does not have to match the other rad ,just make sure it has connection nipples on the top and bottom just like the existing rads


Can I use a split tab switch for mains voltage and low voltage?

This is OK provided that the wires to the fan control switch are treated as 120VAC wires as per 725.46:

  Class 1 Circuit Wiring Methods. Class I circuits shall be installed in
  accordance with Part I of Article 300 and with the wiring methods from the
  appropriate articles in Chapter 3.

(i.e. run using NM and not communications-type cable/wire) and as per 725.48(B)(1):

  (B) Class 1 Circuits with Power-Supply Circuits. Class 1 circuits shall be
  permitted to be installed with power-supply conductors as specified in
  725.48(B)(1) through (B)(4).

  (1) In a Cable, Enclosure, or Raceway. Class 1 circuits and power-supply
  circuits shall be permitted to occupy the same cable, enclosure, or raceway only
  where the equipment powered is functionally associated.

since the control wires are with the fan's power wires, and we can safely treat them as a Class 1 control circuit using the provisions of 725.130, Exception 2:

  Exception No.2: Class 2 and Class 3 circuits shall be permitted to be
  reclassified and installed as Class 1 circuits if the Class 2 and Class 3
  markings required in 725.124 are eliminated and the entire circuit is
  installed using the wiring methods and materials in accordance with Part II,
  Class 1 circuits.


How can I figure out why my garage door opener won't close the door?

The sensors (the "eyes" that are on both sides of the door opening) are probably "out of whack".  If the sensors are not aligned properly, the doors won't operate.   They could of been kicked by accident.


Protecting engineered hardwood from water

I suggest you back out now, before the problem gets worse.  Most hardwood floors will tolerate quick spill cleanups.  That yours didn't implies some combination of badly made flooring or improper installation.
You can try refinishing that chunk, but if the veneer is wrinkling, it's not going to work.
When using laminates in a wet area, one recommendation is to glue the individual planks together.  This is fussy, as you need enough glue to squeeze out, but not enough to glue the plank to subfloor/underlay, nor to make a mess cleaning the top.  But it does make your floor more water resistant.  This reduces both the edge exposure of the plank, and the amount of water than penetrates into the subfloor.
Wood based flooring (hardwood, engineered plank, laminate) is getting better about water.  Despite Manufacturers Claims of their use in bath, laundry, kitchen, I'm not yet sold.
Vinyl sheet flooring is close to waterproof.  Good stuff lasts for decades.  Cutting and laying it is an art form. Because it has few seams, the subfloor is protected too.
Vinyl tile is an option, but while it wears well, it, um... lacks artistic appeal.
Ceramic tile is the ultimate floor for wet rooms, and if you have good knees is well within the capability of a DIYer.  You'll just take 6 times as long as a pro. I've now done a shower, a laundry room, a slate wood stove surround, and a kitchen back splash.  Youtube is your friend. Some water will penetrate the grout, the mortar and into the subfloor.  This is where membrane systems like Ditra are a win -- one more barrier keeping the subfloor dry.  A sealer on the grout helps a lot.  A sealer on the subfloor helps a lot.  Having the subfloor vented on the bottom side will help some.
One thing to remember about 'waterproof flooring'  While the floor may be waterproof, it does not form a waterproof membrane.  (Sheet vinyl comes close) You cannot put a 'waterproof  floor over porridge board (sawdust/small chip board) and expect the subfloor to remain intact.


Leaking basement caused by poorly graded sidewalk

you should be able to get the slab mudjacked (its a process where a series of holes are drilled in the slab on the low side, concrete is injected in under the slab and the hydraulic pressure lifts the slab up.  when the concrete sets, the slab is permanently lifted the way you want it to be.  just do a search for mudjacking in your area.


Why are two breakers connected across a third breaker?

This is a quadplex breaker. Basically, in order to squeeze more stuff into breaker panels, many manufacturers came up with a way to squeeze two breakers into one space. The problem is that for 240V loads that doesn't work - you end up with 0V between the pair of breakers instead of 240V! So then they came up with quadplex - 4 breakers in 2 spaces. The inner 2 and the outer 2 are each 240V pairs, just like traditional double breakers.
I am not a breaker expert, but that looks to me like it may be "handle tie" rather than a true functional double breaker. Actually, the "All poles have no common trip" reinforces that the breakers are independent of each other, electrically speaking.
That is OK for some situations (MWBC), but if I am correct then that was never actually correct for a 240V circuit such as an oven. That being said, it doesn't matter if you are changing things anyway.
There are two possibilities here for your current (yes, pun intended) situation. You may be able to swap individual breakers, or you may have to deal with them as a set of 4 (quadplex). If they are individuals then you can pick one of the two 40A breakers and replace it with a 20A breaker. Based on the latest picture, the circuit is using neutral, so you can swap either breaker and leave the white neutral as-is. If the new gas range is hardwired, then you should be all set. If it has a plug and you are installing a 20A receptacle, you will likely need to pigtail the 8 AWG wires to 10 or 12 AWG wire to connect to the receptacle, as many can't handle 8 AWG wire.
Make sure the breakers are correct for the panel. There are a lot of similar breakers from different brands. The wrong ones might fit but won't fit correctly.
Also, in case it wasn't clear already, you can't replace a quadplex with two pairs of duplex breakers if even one of the pairs still needs 240V.


Can I Replace the motor on a 450w impact drill with a 400w motor from my other drill.?

Unless the motors have identical sizes, identical mounting means, identical output shafting and identical wiring connections then there is no chance of this even being feasible. You already mention that various aspects of the two drills including the cases and attachment options are slightly different sizes so it is highly likely that there are internal differences as well. Take note of how much the case of modern drills (and other tools as well) is integral to holding all internal components including the motor, gear train, brushes if applicable, wiring and switches and it becomes clear that the motors are likely to be different as well.

It also seems foolish to cannibalize a working tool to repair a broken tool. It is far better to realize that tools have a lifetime, especially if they are used a lot in a trade or have been subjected to a lot of hours of use, and that they will require replacement from time to time. Higher end tools can sometimes be cost effectively be repaired by purchasing replacement parts but it is often the case that it is almost better to just replace broken tools with new ones.


Is it possible to use a router to cut a slot in aluminum?

I have used wood tools (mitre saws, circular saws) to cut aluminum with no ill effects to either the equipment or the work piece. Just don't try to take too big of a bite with the router. You don't mention the depth of your cut. Make multiple passes if it's more than 1/4 inch.

Proceed slowly and wear your safety equipment.


Tankless water heater and inconsistent water temperature

I found the source of the problem, and thought I'd post the answer in case anyone is having the same issue.

I needed to turn up the temperature on the hot water tank. For some reason, when I have the temperature set to 108, the kitchen faucet doesn't trigger the tank to kick on. When I set the temperature to 120, the problem was resolved.


Does the electricity meter move at a different speed depending on how many appliances are being used?

The meter's speed is determined by current flow, so it moves faster or slower depending on electrical consumption.

What may change at different times of the day is the price per unit of electricity. So don't worry about meter speed, check with your utility supplier to determine what time of day would be most economical to consume the most.


Jack and Jill bathroom light sensing door locks

I think I understand all the requirements:

The natural action when leaving the bathroom is to turn one of the doorknobs and open the door. For safety reasons this action, without any other required motions, must allow egress from the room under any and all conditions. (Thanks Wolf Harper)
Also, to solve the specified problem, opening the door this way, without any other required motions, must normally (ie. absent failure or emergency) unlock both doors. Requiring additional motions to unlock both doors would obviate the prupose of the project; you might as well put up a sign and be done.
Locking both doors must be easy and natural, preferably with a control near the doorknob. I'm not going to try for an automatic solution, such as connecting the locks to the light, because I can't devise a reliable way to tell if the room is occupied.
The house occupants must be able to override the locks from outside the bathtoom (eg. to prevent someone from locking herself in). Having a key or pin hanging nearby is probably acceptable in most households.

This can be done but the solution may cost more than the average homeowner would be willing to spend. You will need:

2 "storeroom" locksets
2 electric strike plates, "fail safe" type
2 micro switches or magnetic switches that can detect if a door is closed
2 illuminated pushbuttons, the kind with the illuminator on a separate circuit
1 stepdown transformer to power the strike plates
1 latching relay matching the voltage of the transformer and strike plates
a roll of low voltage wire, amount depending on size of bathroom etc.

A storeroom lockset always opens from the inside by turning the handle, and is always locked and operated only with a key from the outside. (Usually the outside handle doesn't even turn.) A door with this fitting can be opened from the inside even in a panic and regardless of the state of the strike plate.

The storeroom lockset satisfies requirements 1 and 4.

A "fail safe" electric strike plate will hold the door locked from the outside when energized, and release it when the current is off. The plan is to maintain the strike plate current with a latching relay.

The micro switches or magnetic switches will unlatch the relay when either door is opened.

The required latching relay can be made from a single-pole single-throw normally-open relay, since the relay coil power can be made to flow through the micro switches.

The electric strike plates, micro switches, and latching relay satisfy requirement 2.

The pushbuttons should be mounted inside the bathroom near the doorknobs. I think the best place is on the door, just above the knob, with a tasteful plaque reading "LOCK BOTH DOORS". I have shopped for lock sets and strike plates with built-in switches but have found nothing, hence the pushbuttons.

I like to put pilot lights on everything so I would buy pushbuttons with built-in lamps wired independently from the switch contacts. Failing this I would use doorbell buttons and separate pilot lights. The purpose of the pilots is to reassure the bathroom occupant that both doors are locked. The voltage of the illuminators must match the voltage of the strike plates.

The pushbuttons satisfy requirement 3. This is the weakest part of the design because you are forced to use something made for a different purpose.

This is the kind of project I like to build just for fun. And the part I enjoy most, I might say the reason for undertaking the rest of the project, is the wiring diagram:


Is it safe to run a USB cable inside a wall?

If you are going in-wall over 16 feet, you need an active extender as many have pointed out. One alternative to this is to use a Cat5 extender: this allows you to run Cat5e/6 in-wall (riser or plenum cable is rated for in-wall use), then convert to USB at both ends as needed. One I found at Monoprice is rated for 150ft.


You need a strain relief clamp

or cable gland

(images for example, not an endorsement)

Since it's NM-B, the top one. The bottom one is for round cordage.


Why is my refrigerator's water dispenser so slow?

After replacing the water inlet valve and the water filter in my refrigerator, the water flow was still very slow with no improvement.  So, I took out the water filter, shined a flash light into where the water filter goes, and found some plastic wrapping (trash)...apparently from the nozzle at the end of the water filter that inadvertently didn't get removed before inserting a filter. After "fishing out" the plastic with a wire, I inserted my water filter and bingo...the problem solved.


How can I repair leaks in an underground home's roof?

Uncovering it is the only way that will work. Given the expense and hassle involved, budget for a whole new waterproof membrane (EDPM rubber is one typical product - the expansion of "green roofs" in the past 30+ years means you'll find a bit more applicable knowledge and material than was around in the 1980's...) rather than trying to locate a leak. Root barriers are sometimes added as a separate layer to protect the actual membrane.

But...

This place claims to have a leak detection/mapping system (electrical- based) that MIGHT let you actually find the leak (without digging first) and dig a smaller hole - I have no direct knowledge of it and remind you to treat all words from sales-people with due caution. But the principle seems legit.


You should be able to move the trap to directly under and between the sinks. In place of the tee going into the horizontal grey pipe install a tee that goes straight down and attach your P trap. Then run your grey pipe horizontally (1/4" per foot slope required) into the top of the drain with a 90 degree elbow.
I don't believe there are any code issues with connecting to the drain with a 90 degree elbow but if so one of the pros here will catch it.


Should I install wood flooring under the closet door track?

Really the only concern is clearance for the door. I'd say it's almost always going to be a better result to remove the track and install the floor. It'll most likely look better, be easier to clean, and be easier if you ever have to replace the door/track (eg: if new track is narrower or wider).

When you say "wood vinyl flooring" everyone seems to be assuming you meant laminate or hardwood flooring, but I suspect you actually mean vinyl flooring with a wood print, which might be either click-together style or come in a sheet:

This adds a minimal amount of height, and depending on the doors it might work or you might be able to adjust the doors (there are usually ways to adjust the positioning of rollers). If you're not sure, it would be worthwhile to "dry fit" part of the new floor in with the doors on the track before you fully commit to this.

If the door can't fit, you have a few options:

Leave a gap in the flooring, leaving the track in place
See if it's possible to adjust the top part of the track to raise it up by the amount the flooring adds. I did something similar to this that might give you an idea.
Replace the door with a shorter one or without a track (only makes sense if you were thinking of replacing it anyway)


Kitchen sink drain occasionally clogs at junction 40 feet downstream from disposal

If you want to find out whether there is anything special about the point where the clogs seem to happen, hire a plumber with the capability to run a special viewing camera through the drain.  If a repair was judged to be necessary it is possible that it could be done by tunneling under the slab rather than breaking a hole in the slab.

But the easiest thing to do would be to dispense with the disposer. We did away with our disposer more than 25 years ago. We collect food scraps in a bag in a can (10 in diameter x 10 inch deep) on the counter top and put them in the garbage. Many people do this nowadays. The waste water treatment authorities discourage the use of disposers.


Can anyone identify this device, attached to roof in living room corner?

My best guess is a controller unit for a HVAC system with an (optional) humidifier.
AGA is a well-known manufacturer of heating systems and ovens, but they used to make HVAC systems as well in the past.
The salinity sensor solder-pads (unused on this PCB) lead me to the humidifier part guess. (Salinity only makes sense of you have a connected water-supply somewhere.)
The KDU (Keyboard Display Unit ?) connectors most likely were hookups to a controlling keypad/thermostat.
The wires on the bottom-left probably go to the actual HVAC unit in the attic. (Or go were that unit used to be.) And this controller would get its operating power from the HVAC via those wires as well.
Having a 9V battery clip inside such a unit wouldn't be unusual either. Typically so it retains its settings during a power-cut.


What size wire gauge for 1000ft service run?

Traditional, aka "nobody ever got fired for recommending this"

1000 feet underground, split phase 120/240V service, 3 wires, this is the main service to the house (so we get a favorable 83% derate on NEC 310.15b7, so calculating for 83 amps).   Your choices are

  250 kcmil aluminum at 6.84% voltage drop,  $3,300
  400 kcmil aluminum at 4.88% voltage drop,  $5,400
 1000 kcmil aluminum at 2.80% voltage drop, $11,000
   3/0 AWG  copper   at 6.06% voltage drop,  $9,000
  250 kcmil copper   at 4.48% voltage drop, $12,000
  500 kcmil copper   at 2.86% voltage drop, $24,000

Some people are really hung up on 3% voltage drop.  Other people are really hung up on using aluminum nowhere ever, and ignoring the actual facts.  Start a Kickstarter and let those people pay the cost differential!

All these wires will also accept 200A service.  However voltage drop will be higher.  Voltage drop is proportional to actual current being flowed at the moment and has nothing to do with nameplate ratings.

Transform the problem

Now, we can ease the pain by stepping up the voltage for the long haul.  We will use two transformers back to back.  These transformers are about $1,000 each for ones ample to your current draw.

In between the transformers, voltage is stepped up, which means current steps down by the same proportion, so volts x amps still yields the same.  If we double from 240V to 480V, current halves from 100A to 50A.  240V to 600V (the max for common wires) drops current to 40A. We still get to derate 83%, giving 32.75 amps.  So...

   4 AWG aluminum at 5.05% voltage drop, $  500
   6 AWG copper   at 4.89% voltage drop, $1,100
   1 AWG aluminum at 2.68% voltage drop, $1,000
   3 AWG copper   at 2.60% voltage drop, $2,000

WOW, that savings on wire is huge, and way more than pays for the transformers in all cases.  Here, it seems like the winner is #1 aluminum if you intend to fit 200A service in the future, otherwise #4 Al.

I wasn't able to find any wires in the 6-7% voltage drop range, because the next smaller wire was giving 8-10% voltage drop.

This is priced based on only 2 wires.  There is no point running a ground wire 1000 feet, even if this wasn't a double-isolated, doubly separately derived service, which it certainly is.   There is no value whatsoever to grounding your house to a point 1000 feet away.  This will be its own full and proper service, and it will absolutely depend on local grounding at the house, but that was already required.

Theft

There are two ways to go: direct burial, or conduit.  Direct burial must be trenched 27" to allow 24" cover.  Conduit can be covered 18" (plastic or EMT) or merely 6" (rigid or IMC conduit).

If you work in conduit, it is a foregone conclusion that some hick will break into your remote service panel, cut your leads, tie 'em to his truck's ball hitch, drive away with your 1000’, and spend the month trading chunks of it for meth.  Or worse, just cut the wire in a failed attempt to do that, and leave you 6 inches short on a 1000' run.

For this reason, I would definitely bring the conduit to a wiring trunk a short distance from the house and remote site, bind the wire in some way so it can't be pulled out (or so the short bit pulls out), and then bury and hide the trunk.  This also helps you if your distance proves to be a little more than 1000', position the trunks a little less than 1000' apart so you can just buy full spools.


Why is my kitchen ceiling light not turning on with the light switch?

Agreed that you need to verify the light is not working first by switching the light bulb with a known working light bulb. If that doesn't work is there another 3 way switch that is off now that you didn't know you had?
That was switched off by somebody else since you didn't know it existed.

Can this light only be turned on and off from the one location (i am trying to figure out if this is a single pole or 3 way light switch your testing.)

If its a single pole switch (only two screws with wires under them) than when you put your light up probe on the contacts on the switch it should light either full on or full off. (depending what position you have the switch in , up or down) So if its half on than something is going on.

If its a 3 way switch than maybe your putting the probe on the wrong contacts to get a full light. A three way switch has 3 wires under three different screws.

I am just trying to think out loud because I don't know what to think.

Maybe its a bad ballast (in a fluorescent light fixture) giving off funny voltages which I am not even sure makes sense. What kind of a light is it?

Maybe the neutral in the panel is loose (i know I have had half voltages on plugs when the neutral was loose in the panel even though I wasn't in the panel recently).

Let me know how it goes.


How can I fix a door that is leaning into my bathroom?

If it's a wooden door, the door leaf could have warped/twisted. Quite often you can (if you have the space e.g. a workbench) cramp the door up so that it is twisted the opposite way, leave it for a few days and then when you release the cramps the door will spring back to a position where it is (substantially) flat.

If the door is already flat, then it may be that it has been hung incorrectly and you would need to recut the hinges most likely.


Can I share a 220v circuit between an AC compressor and baseboard heat?

The NEC allows one or the other to be used for calculated values, I have installed both on the same circuit but with larger electric heat there may be 2/ 3 circuits required. With both being smaller choose the larger for the over current protection and you should be fine depending on your county and state local requirements.


Water coming in around foundation when it rains

Have you checked your gutters. Every time I end up with water in my basement it is the result of some issue with my gutters. I have a lot of old trees around my house and during certain times of the year it is impossible to keep them clean (I know I need guards). If they back up the water pours over the sides and then builds up near the basement walls and eventually seeps inside.

Also, make sure the downspouts are all still attached and if needed get some extensions to send the water further away from the house.

Also, check the grade of the area surrounding the foundation. Make sure that there is a least a small slope away from the house. If the rock bed is too high - or if you have some kind or plastic underneath to prevent weeds it might be preventing the water from draining properly.


How to run Romex cable to Enphase Combiner box 3?

What you can do is run your Romex as planned to a junction box on the inside wall and run conduit from the junction box through the wall to your combiner box. Splice your 10/2 Romex to #10 AWG THHN single conductors with wire nuts and run the THHN in the conduit to your combiner box. That should keep everyone happy.


Non-contact tester shows voltage in house circuit while three-lamp tester shows none

Non contact testers work by identifying an electrical field. The wiring normally is run in close proximity and the live wires induce a voltage that can be detected by the non contact tester but there is no potential or current available so the lighted tester will not light. This is normal and quite common I have more expensive Fluke testers and very cheap ones and they all work the same. You can duplicate this with 2 extension cords plug 1 in and put another one not plugged in next to the first. The larger the load on the plugged in cord the larger the field will be on the cord that is not plugged in but many times no load is needed to induce the field in just a few feet. (this is how transformers work but they have many wraps of wire to develop the potential).
Have you checked your circuit breakers? if the handle is partially tripped it needs to be moved to the off position then back to the on position to reset it. it is also possible that the circuit is protected by A GFCI device that has tripped other than a failed electrical connection.


Drywall installation vertical or horizontal?

I've always been told horizontal, and it makes sense in that it makes taping easier and and reduces joints.

The main reason I've been told is that you want to avoid having a continuous seam from floor to ceiling. When the house settles, these are more likely to form a crack.

Also you don't want to place drywall seams at the corners of doors or windows. Previous owners (or whoever) put seams at the bottom of my windows and I've got nice cracks from the corner of the windows to the floor. As long as the horizontal seams are screwed very close to the edge at each student, I'm not sure how a horizontal crack could form.


Can't drill deep enough into the wall nor the ceiling; what am I doing wrong?

Are you sure your not using a masonry drill bit?  It will drill through the drywall, but you will have a tough time if you hit wood behind it.


Turning off two switches at same time trips breaker

Tom - we need to know where on the Planet you are as Electrical Codes vary and so does the wiring.

In the USA .. simplistic description: normally your electric panel would be wired Power Line, to Main Panel ( you might have a main breaker in the panel or on the outside of the house ) your lights would be wired through a separate circuit breaker after the main breaker in that panel.  Lets be clear this is NOT a Main Breaker.

So if you have a MAIN breaker that is tripping - Your circuit protection for those lights (the light circuit) is not working or it is Sized completely Wrong - hint it is probably not working - welded in the on position.

What you refer to as a double light switch is what is known as a 3-way switch arrangement. You do not specify if this is a new installation, has ever worked or if a switch has been recently replaced.

If a switch was recently replaced (my guess is yes):

I suspect the Switch;
someone purchased and installed a normal light switch instead of the 3-way switch.


What do I need to do to ensure the longevity of my Welsh dresser?

No. Keep it in a house (i.e. a dry, somewhat climate controlled environment) and it will become an antique, or more antique, in the old fashioned way, by existing.

Waxing/polishing are purely cosmetic, and should be done before your Mum visits to keep her happy.

The basic construction of wooden furniture dictates its odds of becoming antique / more antique. Once it's gotten to antique status, short of wood eating pests it's generally good to become more antique until some external event ends it. So make sure your smoke detectors are working, etc...


How do I install a wood stove as an auxiliary heat source?

For modulating heat in a wood stove in general, you probably have air controls that should control the fire. You should be able to get some good coals going, put on a fresh log or two, and damp down the air flow considerably. Then it should burn relatively slowly, and not release so much heat.


The size of a standard parking spot depends on where you live. For example, in the US the width will usually be between 8 and 10 feet, and 18 to 20 feet long. But in a European country where the average vehicle is smaller, the average parking spot will also be smaller.

Something to consider when designing your parking area: space outside the "lines". You need to have room to open your door and get out without causing damage to the car or whatever is next to it. Make sure to account for that.

Additionally, you need to think about turning room. If the alley is narrow, you may not be able to turn in to your parking spot if the spot is too narrow, especially with another car in the next spot.


They are apparently considering the attic accessible although it is not readily accessible. Most furnaces in basements have NM cable protected with EMT conduit and that is probably where they are equating that situation to this one. However, in a normal basement the cable would be readily accessible, meaning you can walk right up to it without any tools or ladders.
So, it doesn't need protection since it is not readily accessible being that it is in an attic that needs a ladder for access. However, it does need to be secured and supported according to the code. Meaning within 12" of of the switch box in your picture and every 4 1/2 feet thereafter.
From the 2014 National Electrical Code:

334.30 Securing and Supporting.
Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (41⁄2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting. Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge.

It is up to the HVAC technician and electrician to agree on a method and location of securing it to the AC cabinet.
Good luck!


What are the risks of sending low-current neutral through the ground wire?

Yes there are risks to safety.

If anything interupts the ground conductor that leads back to the service entrance, suddenly your switch is energizing the ground on that circuit, so anything connected to it is also going to be energized (i.e. a printer that has a grounded metal chassis suddenly has a live metal chassis).

You guess that this is only a few milliamps, but do you know under all operating conditions that this is the case? Just 10mA is enough current to cause muscular paralysis -- and 100mA is fatal.

You may think that "well yeah, but it would take multiple bad things to happen for this to be a safety hazard"... but you're already doing one of the bad things it would take, so you're one conductor away from a very unsafe situation.

There are some smart switches rated for use without a neutral (but they generally only work with incandescent lamps).

Since you're just controlling a receptacle, the easiest thing to do is use a plug-in lamp or appliance module.

But if you were controlling a ceiling light fixture, you could use an in-line switch module that wires in at the lamp fixture itself instead of at the switch:

You could keep the switch on all the time to supply "line" to the lamp fixture, and use the existing neutral at that fixture, then let the switch module control power to the lamp. Then you can use a batttery operated wall switch to control the lamp module.


Sticky faucet handle of unrecognized faucet

It looks much like this one--wow ... not cheap--found by doing a web image search for "antique brass faucet".

This is the install document. Item 16 is a setscrew that you loosen so that you can remove the handle, and expose the cartridge assembly. Then I guess that you would loosen a retaining ring and pull up on the cartridge assembly.

Do not forget to shut off the water before doing this.

Here is the manufacturer. You could email them.

Here is a search for info.


1 - Many people call many metal shapes "drip edge". First of all, there is "drip edge" there. I don't know if that's just a quick drawing you drew, but you should have an overhang out of the roof on a drip edge.
Examples:

The hanger normally goes through the back of the gutter anyway, but not the drip edge. With an actual drip edge, even if installed the same way as shown, the overhang would help out with the water dripping, and you wouldn't have an issue. That being said, it doesn't mean that you will.

2 - It could.

3 - Good for protection.

4 - If the flange was part of the gutter, made from one piece, you cold have a roof mounted hanger, that's best case scenario, but just replacing that edge metal with a drip edge may be the ticket, that is IF you have issues.


Can a flat and level roof be waterproof?

EPDM rubber roofing might work for you. It can be installed without any heat or fancy tools; I'm planning to use it for my flat-roofed concreted detached garage. It should withstand ponding water, and because your project is small and your playhouse probably doesn't have plumbing, you should be able to avoid seams, complex flashing, and pipe penetrations. You can install the rubber using an adhesive directly over clean plywood.

It can accommodate a floating deck. I have the book Roofing, Flashing & Waterproofing (For Pros By Pros), which includes a nicely illustrated article on installing EPDM with a floating deck. The method they recommend is to use a non-adhered strip of EPDM underneath the decking sleepers, so that any motion in the decking doesn't stress the roof membrane much. You'll still want some slope in the roof for better drainage, but you can compensate for that in the sleepers, allowing you to have a level walking deck.


Inspection suggested to replace vents between laundry and garage

The inspector is likely correct, depending on what codes you follow.

If make up air is required for the water heater, it should come from outside, not a habitable space. If make up air is required for the dryer, that too should come from outside.

If the vents compromise the firewall between the garage and habitable space, they must be sealed in an approved manner.  It's also not a good idea (and likely a code violation), to have open airflow between the garage and habitable space.


Existing GFCI outlet wiring to a new switch

While it's possible that the receptacle is split and fed by two sources, it looks like the tab between the terminals is still in place.  This means that one of the cables is likely the supply (from the panel), while the other feeds devices further along the circuit.

If the tabs between the terminals are in place, then it's not fed by two sources.  You can connect the blacks to blacks, the whites to whites, and the grounds to grounds.

From there, I'd suggest installing a combination switch/receptacle. Running a cable up to where you want the new receptacle, and hooking up the new receptacle so it is controlled by the switch.

That way you don't completely lose the existing receptacle, but you still get your switch controlled lighting.

Depending on the device used, the wiring would look something like this.

NOTES:

Since this is a countertop receptacle, it has to be GFCI protected.  If it's not already protected, you'll have to install a combination switch/GFCI receptacle.  In which case, the wiring will be slightly different.


How to hang a TV on a drywall with no studs and no room for toggle bolts?

As Joe points out, if this wall is original, then it's not drywall, but plaster. You can't easily detect studs behind plaster walls with a stud detector. You likely have to use test holes. One option is to drill a largish hole in the center(ish) of where you will mount the TV. Then use a coat hanger to fish it into the hole to see if you can locate the studs on each side.

If it's a solid wall (brick, likely) then that gets trickier, Old brick and mortar isn't that strong in terms of ability to hold screws. But you can try it by drilling into the mortar and using masonry screws.

Finally, if this is a shared wall with the neighbor, first check your tenant agreement to see if you are even allowed to mount a TV to it. Lots of apartments will have restrictions on what you can hang on shared walls--both for fire code issues (they don't like holes in party walls) but also for common courtesy of trying to avoid noise transference.


Which of these is a suitable material for waterproofing interior walls?

A bathroom should have water resistant materials in the places likely to be splashed with water. Stanard drywall is not used in those locations, but rather hardboard or cement board should have been used. If the proper materials were used in the first place, then you can just prime and paint over them.

What @Ecnerwal is saying in his comment applies more to a situation like basement wall waterproofing. In @Faheem's situation, the water would be coming from the interior, so it would not cause the waterproofing to peel. However, in a properly constructed bathroom, no additional waterproofing coating is required. You may wish to use a "kitchen and bath" paint, but beyond that there's nothing more needed.


With bathrooms, Code now gives you two forks in the road.

One 20A circuit can power only bathroom receptacles in any number of bathrooms, but absolutely nothing other than bathroom receptacles. Hardwired loads in the bathrooms (lighting, fan) must be powered by other household circuits.
One 20A circuit must power one bathroom only, but can power receptacles and hardwired loads in that same bathroom only. This circuit cannot power anything in any other room.  However, hardwired loads in that bathroom could be powered by other household circuits.

Rewire time is a great time to address problems like, as Jim Stewart says, breakers tripping when Mom and daughter try to run hair dryers at once.   Honestly, I wouldn't even consider it excessive to supply two 20A receptacle circuits, so the occupant of that bathroom can run a curler and hair dryer at once.  This could even be done with a single 12/3 cable using our old friend the MWBC.

As far as extending the bedroom circuit outside, that is fine.  However I learned not to leave expensive electronic things outdoors. That includes GFCIs.  I would fit a cheaper indoor-rated GFCI+receptacle inside the bedroom at whichever location you tap for the outside extension.  Hang the cable to the outdoor receptacle off the LOAD terminals of that GFCI.  Then, fit a plain receptacle outdoors.  It won't deteriorate nearly as fast, and when it does, it's $2.


A properly sized floor joist should never deflect. Is your bed a water bed?. Joists are supposed to be sized to handle a minimum of 60 to 80 pounds per square foot, which is actually a lot, since loads are distributed across the entire span.  If you are seeing ridges, cracks, or movement under load, you have a problem.  I have seen joists wain, crack or even fracture at a fault in the wood grain.  If this situation has gotten worse, or happened suddenly, I would seek a pro to take a look. Don't want to scare you, but this is not normal and warrants further investigation. This is not a job for an amateur.


Polyurethane finish over stained wood - can I combine brush and rub on techniques?

I wouldn't recommend using a bristle brush at all. Use either a foam brush or a lambskin applicator. I don't really see a reason to switch between the two, but it should be ok.  Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations.  You do not want to begin sanding until the solvents have evaporated and it begins curing.  Also, time between coats has an upper limit.  See the manufacturers website.

Two additional thoughts:

You can use a thinner such as mineral spirits to thin out the polyurethane.  You will need more coats, but it will help eliminate stroke marks.

If you really think a small application like a coffee table will take that much abuse, you could use "Glaze coat". It is a two part that goes on extremely thick and works very well.  Commercial bar tops and table tops often use it. It's not cheap.  Last time I used it I paid $25 for 9SF of coverage, but it goes on smooth and when you are done you could practically weld on it ("slight exaggeration")


Roughly, your (logical, barring a desire to make a huge change) options are:

Gas-fired steam boiler - least change to the system, given usual gas and oil prices should be cheaper to run.

If you have "two-pipe" rather than "one-pipe" steam, conversion to a hot water boiler using the same radiators (possibly with some additions) and most of the piping might be possible/economical. Otherwise retrofitting hot water baseboards or radiators is far easier than retrofitting ductwork.

Depending where you are in the state and your relative cost of electricity and gas, cold-climate air-air split-system heat pumps can be economical. The "cold climate" versions stand the previous assumptions about air-air heat pumps (when the weather gets cold) on end.

For a lot more money up front, geothermal heat pumps work nicely and don't care about outside temperature. You'd probably want a water-to-water version to make hot water to pump around a hydronic delivery system (which as above, might or might not include your old steam radiators repurposed as hot water radiators.)

Finally - insulate, seal, insulate, seal, insulate, seal.


Does ambient temperature impact gas pipe sizing?

The child's balloon is a great analogy for the gas piping system in a house. But rather than having been tied off with a knot, the neck of the balloon is still pressed to the lips of a parent with infinitely large lung capacity. (The gas piping is not a closed vessel, but is connected through the gas meter to a vast reserve of natural gas in the supplier's distribution system.) If the parent steps outdoors into a cold ambient, using their diaphragm to maintain steady air pressure inside the balloon, the balloon won't shrink. It's true the air inside the balloon will contract -- it'll become more dense as it cools -- but some of the infinite supply of air in the lungs will flow in to make up the difference and maintain the volume or size of the balloon.
What would happen if the child's balloon were not a round globe, but instead a very long tubular balloon used for making art? If just the end of the balloon were put out through the window, would the outdoor part shrink while the indoor part remained unchanged?
Pressure in a closed gas pipe system, ie where the meter is hooked up but at the moment there's no flow, will be equal at every point in the system regardless of the temperatures of various sections. The density of the gas will vary with temperature but its pressure will not.
But static pressure is not the factor that causes us to use varying sizes of pipe.
When the appliance valve at the end of the pipe opens and gas starts flowing, then yes, the strict engineering answer is that ambient temperature affects the pressure drop. Engineer's Edge provides the following equation for calculating pressure drop of a fluid flowing in a circular pipe:

The relevant piece here is rho, the density of the fluid. The density of natural gas is inversely proportional to temperature; as the gas gets colder its density increases. Because rho is in the numerator, an increase of density caused by low temperature leads to increased pressure drop in the pipe. That could make necessary an increase of pipe size.
Fortunately, for small buildings matters like lumber, wire, and pipe sizing are often handled by following prescriptive tables rather than by developing site-specific engineered solutions. Though the pipe sizing tables don't explicitly state it, I believe we are to assume that the prescriptive tables include allowances for worst-case conditions of cold temperatures, rough and rusty pipe walls, and so on.


Will my roof construction allow attic flooring?

This is "Ridge board and rafters":

These are roof Trusses:

From your pictures, you clearly have ridge boards with rafters coming off of them.

The reason trusses shouldn't hold the weight of flooring or heavy boxes is because they are typically made from relatively small boards (2x4's in some cases) and the bottom board is already carrying a significant roof load because of the design of the angled elements.


What does the inspector mean by "Hot and Neutral are not separated"?

I'm guessing from the image that this is a sub-panel, in which case the inspector is correct.  The National Electrical Code (NEC) says:

National Electrical Code 2008
250.24 Grounding Service-Supplied Alternating-Current Systems.
(A) System Grounding Connections.
(5) Load-Side Grounding Connections. A grounded conductor shall not be connected to normally non–currentcarrying metal parts of
equipment, to equipment grounding conductor(s), or be reconnected to
ground on the load side of the service disconnecting means except as
otherwise permitted in this article.

Which means the only place the "neutral" (grounded conductor) is bonded, is in the main service panel.  If the grounded (neutral) and equipment grounding conductors (EGC) are bonded anywhere else, you can end up with neutral currents on the EGC and metal parts of equipment which is a violation of 250.6(A).

250.6 Objectionable Current.
(A) Arrangement to Prevent Objectionable Current. The grounding of electrical systems, circuit conductors, surge arresters,
surge-protective devices, and conductive normally non–current-carrying
metal parts of equipment shall be installed and arranged in a manner
that will prevent objectionable current.

A second look
After taking another look at this, he could mean that the white insulated wires are not marked appropriately.  When you use a wire with white (gray, or with three continuous white stripes) insulation as an ungrounded (hot) conductor, you have to mark the wire in some way to indicate that it is not used as a grounded (neutral) conductor.

200.7 Use of Insulation of a White or Gray Color or with Three Continuous White Stripes.
(C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More. The use of insulation that is white or gray or that has three continuous white stripes for other
than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or more shall be
permitted only as in (1) through (3).
(1) If part of a cable assembly and where the insulation is
permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded
conductor, by painting or other effective means at its termination,
and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible.
Identification shall encircle the insulation and shall be a color
other than white, gray, or green.

Since the white wires connected to the breakers are not marked, it looks (to the untrained eye) as if the grounded (neutral) conductors are connected to the hot bus. The most common way to mark the wires, is to wrap a bit of black electrical tape around a small section of the wire.


how to attach furring strips to drywall (for pegboard installation)

That's large enough that there's no excuse for trying to hang it from the drywall. Find the studs and drive screws into them.