Not to big of a concern.

You could take a 12" sono tube, slice it length wise and then pull it open enough to get it around the post. Then just overlap the slice and glue it with outdoor construction adhesive.

Once the glue sets you can back fill around the outside of the tube with soil, keeping it plumb and straight, and then you are ready to fill with concrete.


How do I remove a brick patio embedded in concrete?

If you have plenty of time, and don't want to hire power tools, you can do it a bit at a time over several weeks (months?). It will be hard work but anyone can do it.

That's a brick bolster and a club hammer, which is what I had to hand when I needed to break up some brickwork. You could try some other type of cold chisel or hammer. It depends what you can borrow or what advice you can get from the local store.

The brickwork I was attacking was set with mortar. If your concrete turns out to be too tough you may have to try power tools instead.

It so happens I have an old cheap Chinese-made SDS hammer drill that had been used to break up a large heap of set asphalt (you can buy these very cheaply, they won't be very durable but OK for occasional light use). These things usually have a rotation-stop lever and come with a chisel. I'd probably escalate to that before considering hiring a jackhammer.

A tool-hire shop should be able to advise.


You can share ground, but I believe you'll get into code issues if you share the neutral, so you'll need 5 wires (Hot 30 Neutral 30 Hot 20 Neutral 20 Ground 20&30) even though the neutrals probably could be shared from a purely electrical point of view.

Ah, wait - you're saying you'd put a 30A 220V sub-panel on the post, so you'd just need the 4 conductors (L1, L2, N, G) to feed that, and then you'd run the receptacles from that sub-panel. Should work and pass code, don't know that it will be cheaper given the need for an exterior-rated sub-panel and a breaker to feed it. Wire is expensive, but maybe not THAT expensive.

Personally, I'd run 1" schedule 80 conduit and pull individual wet-rated wires rather than run a cable. But that's an opinion


The 17v is normally a phantom voltage, a bad connection or broken wire is normally the root cause  verify the connections are good and back stabs are not used at both points also check the other side of the wall for a receptacle if a common wall the problem can be there.


That needs to be closed up. Use a round to rectangle box adapter.

Image from amazon, no endorsement implied, it was just the first one to come up and I'm being lazy.


What is the proper setback from the curb for a mailbox?

6-8 inches from the curb according to the official USPS website.

Of course, this refers to the location of the door relative to the front face of the curb. If the plow is taking out the post, rather than the box itself, you could install a post that is angled, rather than vertical. My dad would cement a 6-foot steel fence post 5 feet into the ground in front of the mailbox post. "That'll show 'em!"


How can I find replacement dishwasher parts?

I agree with @BrownRedHawk: find the manual online and then look for the exploded parts view.  You'll find a part number and use that to search.  I actually find most common parts like wheels and stuff on Amazon but for this part you're looking for you may have to look harder.  I have had a lot of success with http://www.searspartsdirect.com/


Enclosing utility room (furnace / water heater) basement

You really do need the fresh air make up when venting to another room. When in training the reason for the 1 vent up high and 1 low was to circulate the the air in the room. So if you have the total square inches needed for the open combustion systems it would be safe but just into another room that may not have access to the same area that this room has may be un-safe


Securely attaching a 4-ft 4"x4" lumber to concrete?

If a picture is worth a thousand words
Here is a 4K word answer


Adding an outlet on a separate circuit in garage?

Your panel is Circuit Total Limiting, apparently, so you'll want a BQC220230
From the labeling on your panel having references to rejection-type bus stabs, we can tell that your panel is what's known as a Circuit Total Limiting (CTL) electrical panel.  These were developed in the 70s to enforce the old NEC prohibition on having more than 42 circuits coming out of a single panel.  However, since that restriction was lifted in the 2008 NEC, the current Eaton panels have dropped the CTL feature, as they are listed and labeled to be double-stuffed to the gills.
The good news is that while they're no longer needed for new panels, Eaton still makes CTL tandem and quadruplex breakers in order to support existing BR CTL panels.  You'll want a BQC220230 for your situation; this provides a 2-pole 30A common trip breaker on the inner poles for your dryer circuit, while providing a common-trip on the outer two 20A poles as well.  This latter feature not only lets you run a 12/3 out to the garage for your new tools circuit, but also permits you to put 240V receptacles (NEMA 6-20R) on the circuit in addition to the 120V receptacles, with the small caveat that under NEC 2020, you'll need a "spa box" GFCI at the garage to provide GFCI protection for the mixed circuit.


What should I do about a receptacle with 2 circuits going through it where white wires are hot?

Is it OK? No. Aside from the dangerous confusion you experienced there is an ongoing safety problem here. You have hots from two circuits going into one receptacle, but you only have one neutral. By placing load from two circuits onto one neutral wire, you have the risk of overloading that wire without tripping the circuit breakers for either circuit.

It's possible to safely have two circuits feeding one receptacle, if you have a hot/neutral pair for each segment. Additionally, current code requires dipole breakers in this case, so overload on either circuit shuts off both.

To fix this, you need to determine which hot is associated with the same cable back to your circuit breaker as your effective neutral, and disconnect the other hot. (One of the black wires may be feeding another receptacle; make sure that receptacle has a correct neutral.) You should also trace the cables to adjacent receptacles/junctions and check those -- this isn't a good sign about the quality of electrical work in your home. If you're lucky, the fix is just a matter of a few changes in receptacle boxes. If you're unlucky... well, it's better to find out through inspection than through a fire.

You'll want to get a non-contact voltage tester. Be safe!


How to repair broken off wood from a chair?

An easy way to test out stains is to apply an ample amount of the filler you are using to a scrap piece of wood. It is unlikely you will be able to match the wood. But judging by the amount of filler you have, I assume matching the filer is the biggest concern. Sand the filler on the chair and the scrap using the same tools( sandpaper etc ). Then test out the stains you pick on the scrap piece and hold it up to your chair. This way, you don't have to commit to a stain until you are fairly sure it will match.

Also, sometimes a paint supplier, Porter, Sherwin Williams, etc. has some professionals who actually still mix tints/stains. They can usually do a decent job of getting close to the stain match. Bring a good picture of the chair stain and the sample piece you made and they may be able to help. Otherwise, just get a bunch of small stain cans from your local big box and test away!

Happy hunting!!!


Can you put a small breaker panel after a 30 amp breaker from main panel in the house?

It sounds like what you want is a sub-panel (http://www.wikihow.com/Add-a-Subpanel). You will need to check for local regulations pertaining to exactly what you need to install, but all of the materials should be available at the local big box store. Also, make sure that you size the breaker at the main panel correctly (you mention 2-4 15 amp breakers, anything more than 2 with a 30 amp breaker would be a no go.)


Dishwasher was tripping the fuse box, but now appears to be working?

First it is NOT safe to use. You're GFCI, AFCI, and overcurrent protections (Breaker) are in place to protect you from shock and burn hazards. If they are tripping it means something is wrong and could be dangerous. So turn off the breaker and do not use the dishwasher.

An intermittent trip means you dishwasher is not safe under certain circumstance. In this case I would guess that during a cycle something is leaking water and shorting out. So when you allow it to dry out you can reset the breaker. Understand electrical problems do not fix themselves. It was smart of you to call out a skilled person to investigate the problem.


How to cover exposed attic wall insulation

Plastic isn't recommended in this situation because it would create a second vapor barrier that can trap moisture and result in condensation and mold. Craft paper would have the same problem, this is what is most likely on the other side of the insulation for the vapor barrier you want.

The good solution for this is a house wrap material (often referred to by the popular commercial brand Tyvek) which allows vapor to pass through while blocking water itself on the outside of the home.

You can also put up a thin board, plywood, or even drywall, if the goal is simply to prevent accidental contact. If you already installed plastic, then cutting some slits to vent air both high and low in each wall cavity may prevent any condensation issues.


Is there any advantage to pouring a thicker concrete slab for the basement?

Before I'd add more concrete I'd add reinforcing - reinforcing is cheap and the benefit of it is huge, .vs. unreinforced concrete.

After that it's a matter of use. Will you have a machine shop in the basement? You might want a bit more thickness, too. Will you be playing ping-pong and/or putting in a 1970's basement bar? No benefit. Woodworking machinery? 4 inches is probably plenty. Storing random junk you probably should throw out? Your wine collection? Minimum thickness is fine.

An additional consideration (has not much to do with thickness) is whether you might ever want heat in the basement - in which case, installing radiant heat tubing in the floor, and insulation under the floor and around the outside of the foundation walls is another low cost upgrade with major benefits, if you get it done in the planning phase.

Yet another consideration: Installing exterior drains at footing level is trivial when the hole is open (just the cost of the pipe and placing it - perhaps one more trench to take it away from the house) but terribly expensive if you discover a need for them later on and have to excavate...


Why does only the hot water have low Water Pressure from my 2 handle kitchen faucet?

Your kitchen hot water faucet probably requires replacement (or possibly repair). From your description it sounds like the hot water side has clogged up to the point that it is restricting the water flow. Most likely cause is heavy calcium deposit inside the faucet and/or the hot water piping leading to the kitchen sink.


standing seam metal roof: length of the clip-strip fastener

It depends. There’s several issues: 1) deck thickness, 2) metal panel width, 3) wind loading, 4) slope of roof

You’ll want to follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions, but here are generally acceptable standards.

1) Most manufacturers recommend penetrating the roof deck, unless it’s 2x material (1 1/2” thick). Therefore, 1/2” plywood deck could use a smaller (shorter) fastener than 3/4” thick deck. However, most manufacturers recommend 1” long fasteners. (If you install over an old shingle roof, you’ll need to add sufficient length to go through the shingles.)

2) Depending on the panel width, and thus spacing, a shorter screw could be used for narrower spacing and still develop the same holding power.

3) If you’re located in a high wind area, screw lengths will be longer and spacing is less.

4) Roofs with steep slopes are more susceptible to wind loads (uplift) and size and spacing needs to be adjusted accordingly.

Here is an article that explains it better. Go to page 4 for a typical spacing chart and page 8 for length and general installation recommendations.

https://www.centralstatesmfg.com/wp-content/uploads/GUID_INSTL_HorizonLoc.pdf

Btw, don’t forget to install on an isolation sheet.


Sump pumps normally have some type of water level monitoring sensor. Very typical is that this is some type of float mechanism that activates one or two switches. The idea behind this sensor system is to turn on the sump pump when the water rises to a certain level. Then the pump should run until the water level falls to some lower level. The better units will have two switches in the sensing mechanism, one which monitors the upper turn on level and another that monitors the lower level. Other cheaper units only have one switch to turn on the pump at the upper level and then use some other scheme to decide when to shut off the pump. That other scheme could be a flapper device, a timed cycle or just hysteresis built into the single sensor switch itself.

If your sump pump is turning on and off in rapid short bursts is probably means one of three things:

The upper and lower level sensor points are adjusted too close together. As soon as the pump goes on it expels enough water to reach the lower level in a rather short period of time.
Another possibility is that the sump pit is too small for the water inflow rate and the pump is able to expel all the water in short order even if the sensor points are adjusted properly.
Then there is the possibility that the sump pump is seriously oversized for the size of the pit and can empty in a short period of time.

From your question details it sounds like the most likely scenario in your situation is the item 1) above.


Freeview retunes can change the frequency, power and other technical characteristics of the digital signal. This can cause problems for some receivers and not others due to differences in software, sensitivity and the quality of the signal on that cable.

Historically many TV aerials were designed to favour a narrow frequency band specific to each region. This is called a grouped aerial. If you have one of these then the retune might have pushed some channels outside of this band and the TV might be getting a weak signal for the new frequencies.

Ultimately you might need to consult a local aerial fitter who will be familiar with local issues and their solutions. This might mean changing your aerial type or adding an amplifier or filters.

Bear in mind that the problem might be temporary. Some retunes are done in two phases. You might be in an interim period with less than ideal conditions and will have another retune in a few weeks or months to implement the longer term configuration.

I suggest:

Check the antenna cable is not kinked or damaged for the best signal strength.
Check the antenna cable coax connector is wired correctly for the best signal strength. Look on the web for guides.
Perform a software update on your TV, either over the air or from the internet. In the past I fixed a severe tuning problem for someone with a receiver software update.
Some TVs let you manually enter the frequency for each channel multiplex. Check your TV's user guide and use Google to look up the frequencies you need to input for your region. After this, you might need to disable auto-retune.
You might be able to find a pattern to the channels that are missing. Look at the following website and half way down the page choose the link for your region. You should be able to find a list of frequency number changes, recommended aerial types and affected multiplexes (e.g. PSB2). Use Google to find the channels that are in each multiplex.  https://www.freeview.co.uk/corporate/platform-management/700mhz-clearance/clearance-events-2020
Check if your area is at risk of interference from mobile phone cells: https://at800.tv/im-sure-received-postcard/
Contact Samsung support.
Replace your home's TV aerial with a wideband model if your region requires it. This can be done DIY, but I would ask a professional to specify and fit it, especially if the aerial is high up on the house as is the norm in the UK.


How can I connect a receptacle to a two wire extension cord?

If your extension cord breaks, they make replacement ends for them. I'd only do this with a high priced outdoor extension cord, the cheaper cords should just be replaced completely.


Water dripping from basement ceiling during heavy rain

I know you say the guttering is fine, but my advice to all homeowners is: "never check the gutters when they are dry". Always check them when it's pouring with rain, the harder the better. There is no better way of seeing exactly where the water is going.

My thoughts are that if the roof or chimney were leaking, you'd see evidence long before the water hits the basement ceiling, no?

The fact the water leak is above the ground level means the water is likely getting past the cladding. The fact it only does it during extreme rain points to the gutter system overflowing (IMHO).

The problem may then be twofold; the gutter (as it is) can't cope with heavy rain, and second, there is a breach in the cladding and/ or membrane behind the cladding.


What was the purpose of this diagonal 2x2 along wall?

It was probably temporary bracing used during construction. It can be safely removed once the roof structure is complete and the walls have structural sheathing properly installed.


Can I move the opening of my screen door from the middle to the left?

Your post says "screen door" but it sounds like you want to change the sliding glass door and the screen along with it. Most glass door units are modular, the glass sections (stationary and sliding) are separate pieces and the track runs the whole width of the unit. If this is the case it may be possible to switch things around.

Take a good look at the unit, the sliding door should lift up and inwards for removal. Once removed you may be able to see whether or not the stationary units can be removed. Look for screws on the inside and outside that are holding the units in place. The stationary units can usually be lifted up and removed as well. If we represent the original arrangement as A-B-C (with "B" being the sliding door) you might be able to replace them in this configuration:
 B-C-A.

The panels are heavy, don't try it alone. Prepare a flat area to lay down the sliding door so you can refurbish/lubricate the wheels while you have it off (I use sawhorses). Some old glass units are NOT tempered safety glass and could hurt you terribly if broken, be careful. The weatherstripping scheme, as well as the latch, may require some ingenuity as the setup will not be the same.

Not all glass door assemblies are made to take apart like described, especially custom stuff.


Will outlet tests downstream of a GFCI outlet show open ground?

The stickers are mandatory.  If you don't like the aesthetic of the ones that come in the GFCI box, feel free to "brew your own". They only need to say the words.  And while you're at it, have them state where the reset is located.
If you properly install 3-prong receptacles without ground after a GFCI device, you should expect that a 3-light tester will read up 1 yellow light only (no second yellow). If you read the sticker that interprets "1 yellow", that will suggest "open ground'... but all those interpretations are useless, misleading and a waste of your time. Ignore them.
If you push the "GFCI test" button, it will be normal for it to fail to trip the GFCI.
Keep in mind that novices are poorly equipped to recognize two exceptional situations:

No ground wires, but there is metal conduit or metal jacketed cable which is an approved grounding path.  It is normal not to see ground wires in this case.
There is flex metal conduit or metal jacketed cable which is not an approved grounding path, but does connect ground well enough to operate the 2nd yellow light, to trip the GFCI, and provide transient ESD protection to equipment.

An example of unapproved grounding paths is BX cable, which has a spiral shield with poor electrical conductivity across the spirals. So it isn't like a wire of its width, more like a much longer spiral ribbon resistor.  Good enough for ESD and GFCI... but if a dead hot-ground short occurs, a common condition, it will not flow the 100-200A needed to get an instant trip from the breaker.  Instead it will "glow cherry red", potentially starting a fire.


What type of sealant/caulk is this used on inside corner of shower frame rail?

In wet locations you use 100% silicone caulk. Get the kind specifically for bathrooms with 10 year mold and mildew resistance.

If you are not experienced in caulking you should use painters tape to mask off around the area you are caulking, ( I.E. a line of tape running along both sides parallel to the gap you are caulking. ) Have a roll of paper towels and Water or can of denatured alcohol ready.

Apply the caulk so that you have enough to fill the void, it is ok to put a little to much because you used the tape.  Use your finger to smooth out the caulk by starting at one end and swiping the length of the run, this pushes the caulk into the void and the extra out onto the tape and your finger, do this once and wipe your finger clean then dip your finger in denatured alcohol  and do it again.

Now carefully pull the tape up, it will have caulk on it so do not let it swing into the walls or you will be cleaning up the walls. Now dip your finger in the denatured alcohol and smooth it one last time with light pressure, this smooths out any ridges left behind by the tape.

informative video here

I bet your caulking job will look much better then the previous persons attempt.


Not possible to build into cathedral ceiling?

Generally nothing's really impossible, but a lot of things are impractical, usually due to expense.

Depending on the size of the room, changing a two story room into two stacked one-story rooms is a big job and will require an engineer's stamp, but nothing magic.

Essentially all you're doing is inserting a floor at ceiling height.  You'll have to provide for a means of access to the new space - might be as simple as a set of stairs up, or cutting a door into an upstairs hallway.

The extra load of the structure (and the contents and the occupants) will have to be taken into consideration.  For example it's possible that two opposite existing walls are strong enough to carry the additional load to the foundation, and the distance can be spanned by trusses.

There will probably be many possible ways to do it and doing a careful comparison of costs could save you a bundle.

There will be a million details to deal with - maybe redoing forced hot air ductwork, electrical, moving windows, etc. - etc.

It may be that it's not impossible at all, but an addition gives you much more for your money.


Why am I not getting power to outside outlet?

An outside outlet either is a GFCI receptacle or it's protected by an upstream GFCI receptacle.  For instance, the outlets on the outside of my house are protected by a GFCI outlet in my garage, so they're not even near each other.  Find, test and reset all the GFCI outlets in the house and see if that restores power.


What type of cable should I run to future-proof an outlet for an air conditioner?

If you truly want to future proof, install conduit instead of cable.  This will allow you to pull whatever wire you need, once you've decided what you want.

3/4" conduit should work fine, and would give you the option to install up to four 8 AWG condcutors (Schedule 80 PVC). If you think you'd ever upgrade to a whole house unit, this might be a good option. If you only ever plan to have a single mini-split unit, you'll probably be alright installing 1/2" conduit. Though upgrading to 3/4", would make pulling easier.


The important thing when reusing holes for lag bolts (or screws in general) in a material that the screw will cut threads in (i.e. wood, but also applies more generally to any material much softer than the screw being driven) is to turn the bolt backwards (counterclockwise for a normal right hand thread) until you feel it "drop in" to the existing thread - then start turning forwards. That way you are following the existing thread in the wood to reinstall the screw, not starting to cut a new thread just a bit off from that one and reducing the strength & holding power of the wood.


How to cover an open/exposed wire fast and safe for a long period?

What you want to do is terminate the wires in the junction box using Wire Nuts.  Simply thread them on to the end of the exposed wire, and you need not worry about live wires touching, kids getting zapped, etc.  You should turn off the branch circuit in question (via a circuit breaker or removing a fuse) while removing the outlet and putting on the wire nuts.

If you need to have the box open for a more extended period of time, get a flat cover plate for the junction box (put on the wire nuts, tuck the wire back in the box, attach the cover plate).


Can an incandescent light dimmer be used to dim LED lights?

I got my son a good brand of LED A lamps that says dimmable.  When we use a regular dimmer they dim, but not like a regular lamp.  When you dim them with a regular dimmer you might not get the same dim from time to time, and on ours the dimming is through but you have have the slide to go. We put these LED's in his fan lights at home and he keeps the full bright.

I know dealers of some of the retrofit LED trims and most of them say use the regular dimmer, but the main reason for that is so you don't have to buy new dimmers when replacing the lamps with LEd's.

Lutron makes a dimmer in the C.L family line that dims LED's and CFL's.  These dimmers have a little trim screw dial that you can adjust to lengthen the dimming portion of the dimmer and you set it to be a full range dim on the dimmer.

Older electricians will probably remember the trim setting from older ceiling fans and adjusting them to the full range to tell you if it is on or off.  the fan motor would still turn the blades until it is clicked off.

The picture tells you what they look like and what you can dim with them. The 3 way version of this is the same price as a plain incandescent dimmer, so that is what we use for both 3 way incandescent and 1p or 3way LED or CFL dimming.


Toe nailing should provide sufficient strength. A method I often apply in such situations is to not only nail it both through the header and into the king stud but to also toe nail it from the king stud into the header. You can also put some nails up through the jacks and into the header. If you lack confidence in your nails, a few well placed screws should do the trick as well.


You need to either shorten the pipe or caulk the gap; neither would require shutting the water off (just don't open the valve while working on it).
I would just caulk it, it's not that big of a gap. Use silicone caulk labeled for use in the tub/shower/bath environment.


What is a good strategy to support this deck?

Blue Dashed Line: Your 3-2x12 Beam

RED X: 6x6 Posts

D.Fir 2x10 @ 16" O.C. spanning 14' + 2' overhang past beam: 16' joists
Solid 2x10 Blocking mid-span
6x6 posts @ 12' O.C.

**post edited to match additional info from comments.*


Microwave not heating - replaced magnetron; now what?

"Don't do that"

I'm not saying that you should not repair your microwave, but as a general rule, I would not recommend it:

  Careless troubleshooting of a microwave oven can result in death or
  worse. Experienced technicians have met their maker as a result of a
  momentary lapse of judgement while testing an oven with the cover
  removed. Microwave ovens are without a doubt, the most deadly type of
  consumer electronic equipment in wide spread use.

  The power supplies for even the smallest microwave ovens operate at
  extremely lethal voltage and current levels. Do not attempt to
  troubleshoot, repair, or modify such equipment without understanding
  and following ALL of the relevant safety guidelines for high voltage
  and/or line connected electrical and electronic systems.

  We will not be responsible for damage to equipment, your ego, county
  wide power outages, spontaneously generated mini (or larger) black
  holes, planetary disruptions, or personal injury or worse that may
  result from the use of this material. -- http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/micfaq.htm

"Try this instead"

For most people, replacing the unit or professional repair is a more reasonable risk.


What do you call the piece that holds a router bit's guide wheel in place?

Often called Stop collar or shaft collar.


Have you de-nailed the molding yet? If not, pull the nails through from the backside. It will leave the finish intact.

If you marked the crown so it goes back up in the same place as before, you may be able to use the old nail locations to re-nail it to the framing. If the holes are not visible since the nails may have been pulled from the backside of the trim, use blue tape to locate them on the face to see where to nail. Piloting is a good idea too.

I have even used a larger nail pushed through the original nail hole so the larger finish nail head grabs the wood still. For example if the trim is nailed with 2 1/2" nails (8D) re-nail it with a 3" (10D) or 12D nail (3 1/4").


I would still not trust the thermocouple. I encourage you to just take the new thermocouple back out, and re-install it. I had this exact same problem and unfortunately paid a contractor to come out and do just that, and somehow it fixed it. I guess the things are just finicky.

There should also be a way to adjust the pilot light's flame, typically a screw.


How do I replace my faucet with these connectors?

Well, while we wait for the question to be completed... those things pictured are plumbing tees on your water lines, presumably in your basement.  The technology is this "new" plastic called PEX.

But that is all besides the point - Normally your supply lines run up into your cabinet and to a local shutoff valve.  The sink faucet normally connects to the shutoff valve.  If your laundry sink is in the open, then you should trace the line to the faucet.  Looking for some valve.  If you don't find one, curse at the plumber, and plan on cutting one into this line close to the sink, after you shutoff your main.

Plumbers that do PEX often have specialized tools which are more that homeowners want to invest in.  Ask at the store for simpler connectors.


Washing machine hot water leaking. Is it ok to use with the hot water shut off?

It's fine to wash without hot water. Just set the setting on the machine for cold wash so it doesn't try an use hot water.


What spacing difference is acceptable with a contracted tile job?

When a professional installs a tile floor there should be no visible difference in the thickness of grout lines.  I'm not sure what a hard measurement of percentage would be, but lets just say you should be within 15%.  Thicker grout lines will give you more room for error, which is why I would use the "visible difference" standard.

Also, the level of the tiles should also be consistent.  There should not be any sides or corners that are obviously higher than the others.  The "bare foot test" is a good (and again, subjective) way to tell if the tiles are level.  They should just feel level.

Those first two are pretty basic and even a DIY person should get that mostly right on their first floor.  Another mark of a professional job is the overall layout of the floor.  Is there a really skinny tile left on the edge of the room that could be avoided?  Was a scrap tile cut to fill in behind a vent when they could have just notched a tile?  I would be more forgiving on this last category, but it is still grounds for a complaint.

You have a lot of issues here, and you also appear to have grout splotches all over the floor as well which is so basic I didn't even list that as something to look for...  You should complain.  No installer in their right mind would argue that they did a good job.  Even a "customer relationship manager" with no technical experience would see the obvious flaws here.

The only fix is to rip out and redo the floor.  Don't worry about how much that costs and how you are being "mean" to make them do the work.  You could have done a better job than this.  You paid them for a professional level job, and they make enough money (Lowes) that they can afford to eat a job here and there to fix mistakes.


What order do I do projects on my kitchen remodel

Floors, cabinets, counters, backsplash, appliances. Cabinets could also be done first, especially if you're not refinishing them in place.

The idea is to do projects earlier which do not depend on anything else, or when those dependencies have already been completed. Backsplash depends on the counters, so the counters must be done first. Counters depend on having cabinets in place on which to install the counter, so the cabinets must be done first. Appliances are finishes, so are done last.


What I would actually do:

For sale: two twin beds.

Want to buy or trade: one (double, queen, king) bed.

It's the simple solution, it's the right solution, it gets rid of the fundamental problem at a fundamental level.

Your pictures do not inform about the bedframes very well. Standard iron frames could be easily conjoined with hose clamps, or bolts, or u-bolts. Wooden frames can be screwed or bolted if you don't mind putting some holes in them.

At the upper level, I vaguely recall some sort of T-pad being sold for the center joint, and it helps immensely if you put on a mattress pad that fits over both beds, as well as sheets that do the same.


Regulations 2015 NEC regarding 12/24 volts DC, New DC wiring Light/+in my old." I'm Scared "

Jon,

First of all, I want to make a couple of points,

A home owner can do any wiring or electrical on his own home so long as he is not actually tying it into the power grid and he does it up to code.
Most of the codes are common sense so it is really easy if you step back and use your head.
There is no reason to be scared, a system like you are talking about is not too hard and if you have any questions, pretend like you are working with 120vac and you will be fine.
I know that this post looks long but take it chunk by chunk and if anything is unclear then please comment and let me know, I'll be happy too edit it and help you out.

I want to start off by making one distinction. There are many kinds of "current limited circuits" that have very little regulation. These can include communication wires, signaling wires, and equipment like that. It can cause some confusion because these circuits are entirely different than what you are talking about. If you have enough power availability to run lights, then it doesn't qualify as being intrinsically safe.

Articles 720 and 411 of the NEC are the main sections that have the rules specific to these systems but there are a lot of regulation that still applies (I mention some of it below). Article 411 (found here - freenec.com/T254.html) deals specifically with lighting at 30 volts or less. Article 720 found here - freenec.com/T590.html) deals with everything at 50 volts or less.

One interesting thing to consider if you are using batteries is that a 24V bank will normally reach a maximum of 26-28V during a normal charge but during a special charge called an "equalize" charge, it can reach up to 32V.

I am when you are working with any low voltage ( ≤ 30V and ≤ 50V) it falls under the same regulations as high voltage in regard to circuit and wire protection. For example, you need current regulation (breakers, fuses, or advanced circuit protection) because even a "harmless" 12v car battery can provide enough amperage (current) to become a hazard if it gets shorted.

It also falls under many of the same regulations in regard to grounding. You don't have to ground either leg in DC systems, however, you do need to have a ground wire whenever you string the DC wires. If you don't ground either leg (ie positive and negative), you need too use a DC fuse (or DC breaker) on BOTH legs wherever you need circuit protection. However, if you do ground one leg (you can ground either the positive or the negative) then you MUST NOT use a fuse or breaker on the "grounded conductor" which is the fancy way of saying the grounded leg. Again, you can ground either the positive or the negative but it is much more common to ground the negative line and some DC electronics assume that the negative is grounded and are designed around that assumption. One common mistake that many people do when installing DC systems is that they think that the wiring practices from the automotive industry apply to household DC systems. If unless the negative is not grounded, it is illegal to use a black wire for the negative. This is because the negative is a grounded conductor so the code sees it as the same as the neutral on a normal 120/240 system. A grounded conductor must be white. Also, unless the positive is grounded, it is illegal to use a white wire for the positive.

The difference is that ~30V is the threshold where below that there is virtually no shock hazard and even 50V has very little shock hazard. Notice, shock hazard is very different from arc, short, and fire hazards. So as long as the battery voltage stays below 30V you don't have to worry about making your connections "touch safe" but you do need to make them so that they wont short out. Here is an interesting thread on shock danger. — electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/19103/how-much-voltage-is-dangerous

I don't know where a lot of these codes are or what the specific verbiage is but I studied solar, off grid solar (battery based), and advanced NEC compliance at SEI (Solar Energy International). I am now a "NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional". I love these kinds of projects so keep me posted!

I hope this helps,

Maxfield Solar


Well, it is either a whole house power problem or something specific to the range.

Incandescent lights won't show a quick power flicker, but LEDs will.  Look carefully if you know when the range might "PF".

As for the range, it could be internal or it could be the range circuit.  It is worth (since it is a very low cost experiment) shutting off the circuit breaker and turning it back on.  There is like a 20% chance this might fix the problem if the breaker is marginal or the range needed an external power reset.

If the problem persists, do these steps from easiest to hardest:

Slide the range out from wall, (with breaker off) pull out plug from socket and reinsert.  If anything is loose or wonky, tighten or replace.
Open breaker box, shut off range breaker and tighten the wire connectors.  Especially the ground and neutral wires.  Inspect the wire near the connectors:  if any wire is not bright and shiny, cut it off, strip, and reinstall.
With the range pulled out and unplugged, inspect the "pigtail" (cord) connection inside the range.  Tighten screws and look for signs of overheating and sparking.  A replacement pigtail goes for $12–25.
Open the top where the control board is.  Inspect for melting, soot, smoke, loose connections, etc.  If all other causes are eliminated, it is probably a controller fault.


Why does it take longer for the water in my kitchen to come on after the city worked on drains near my home?

Because air has been introduced into the water supply system. This is caused by the pipes being drained because they were cut and mended. So when they turn the water supply on again air pressure stop water from filling the pipes. (Because pipes are airtight and so are your taps)

To remedy this you need to open cold water tap and let it run. Don't runt your hot water tap because you might introduce dirt into your heating system.  You will hear hissing and spewing noise. Once water starts to run let it run for another minute. You might notice muddy water. If you do let it run for another minute or two until the water is clear.

Sometimes taps have filters (aerators) on them and they can get clogged up causing pressure issues. Also if you did run warm water during priming then it is likely that other filters are blocked. You need to find out which ones, clean or replace them now. Most likely a plumber will be needed to find the problem.


A typical "Magic 8-Ball" tester like the one you are using will activate with a broad range of voltages. The exact voltage will vary depending on the technology used, but I'd say it is a reasonable bet that anything between 70V and 250V (which would allow for some really messed up wiring without zapping the device or the user) will light up.

The multimeter is a more reliable device when it comes to specifics. It would be very unusual, though not impossible, for a modern multimeter to be 20% off - reading 125V as 150V. As it turns out, the problem was the multimeter battery, but keeping this answer as it could be relevant to others in the future. I would do the following:

Test against a different voltage source. Simplest would be mains voltage in a different building. If that is not an option, try a battery powered device, though AC and DC could be "off" by different amounts. You can also try the output of a device that takes a broad range of inputs and produces one stable output - e.g., a laptop charger will typically take 90V - 250V and output 18V or some other very specific value. Assuming the multimeter checks out OK on other stuff...
Determine whether you have "all high" or "half high, half low". The easiest way to do this is to check a "240V with neutral" receptacle - e.g., for a dryer or oven. You should measure nominally 240V hot-hot and 120V for both hot-neutral measurements. If you get 300V hot-hot and 150V for both hot-neutral measurements then you are "all high" (which I would find very unusual). If you have 240V hot-hot, 150V for one hot-neutral and 90V for the other hot-neutral then you likely have a lost neutral.

If the end result is either "all high" or "lost neutral", CONTACT YOUR ELECTRIC UTILITY IMMEDIATELY. Either one would be a very dangerous situation. "All high" will zap anything that is finely tuned for the standard 110V-120V or 220V-240V ranges. But potentially even worse is a lost neutral - it will zap 1/2 your devices by being too high, 1/2 by being too low ("brownout" type problems) and it can vary unpredictably as devices get turned on and off and pose a real human safety hazard.


I believe you should contact a licensed exterminator.
My experience with hard to reach burrowing insects or worms  was  dealt with by  an exterminator who has access to products we do not.
For example we have had problems with carpenter bees which travelled long distances through the beams.
With a puff of  some powder"  which the creature carries back to the queen,
they were eliminated.
(we had also tried many things ourselves with no luck)


Should a metal box be grounded if there's no conduit connected to it?

You must never connect neutral to ground!!!

The situation of white and bare connected to the ground pin is a serious problem.  It means your electrical system now has two neutral-ground bonds, and that causes all manner of mischief.

I get it. If you've seen the inside of a main panel, you notice that neutral bar and ground bar are bonded to each other - or often, they are one and the same bar.  This can draw a novice to the conclusion that "neutral is ground".  Neutral is not ground.  That bond is a very particular thing, an equipotential bond, even if you see the lazy approach of using the same bar for both.  (I am no fan of this; I like it when I can clamp an ammeter around the neutral-ground equipotential bond. That is useful for detecting ground faults.)

When an electrical system has two equipotential bonds, it creates a number of fairly serious "gremlins" in the system.

The correct way is to cap off the neutral wire so it touches nothing -- and ideally, do this at both ends.

Don't put 2 wires on a lug

...unless it says you can. I am assuming a NEMA 6-20 receptacle is not listed for 2 wires per lug, least of all a ground lug, since there is almost never a reason to need that.  (remember you are not allowed to use a device to daisy-chain a ground connection; doing so means if you remove the device, you sever ground for downline devices).

Ground to the metal box first

The metal box should always be grounded.  If you need to ground 2 or more wires, then use a pigtail and wire nut.

The receptacle may not need a ground wire

The receptacle has a metal frame or yoke that the screws go through.  If the yoke is clean bare metal, and it is attached to a box that is also clean bare metal, and the mounting screws are run down all the way (giving hard flush metal-metal contact from yoke to box).., with nothing in the way like a screw-capturing square of paper,... then you can ground the receptacle through the yoke.  There is no need for a ground wire.


How can I achieve a randomized cedar shake shingle placement?

Either shingling a wall or a roof, there is no magic formula, just practice and experience. I will give you a couple of hints. (trade secrets so don't say I told you!) Since you are working on a roof, this can be a little tricky but doable.

First, separate your shingles into piles by size. You can usually make 4 or 5 different piles. Open 3 or more bundles at a time so you have lots of shingles in the sorted piles. You will notice that there will be lots of the medium sized ones, smaller ones and less of the largest and very small ones. Until you get the feeling, you can lay out maybe 15 to 20 shingles on the row, take a look to see if that is the random effect you like, adjust a bit, etc. Be sure to work in more of the sizes you have the most of so you won't end up with a bunch of small or medium ones left after all the largest and smallest are gone. Now you can go ahead and nail down that row. Repeat this process, keeping a good supply of sorted shingles to chose from. Be absolutely sure to bridge all the joints of each row with the row above.  I think that after you have done a few rows, you will start getting a better feel for what you are doing and the process will go faster.

If you have someone to work with, having one person laying out shingles and playing a bit with the sizing, and another nailing also makes the job easier.

Be careful up there as well.  Good luck


Curtain drain in the crawl space - Part 3

I had to think about this one for a bit.  The real reasons for a porous backfill are to easily track water, give depth to protect drain tile from freezing, and keep it in place so it won't float in the water. As long as those goals are met you should be fine.


There are three types of fire sprinkler systems: 1) Illegal and uncertified , 2) legal and certified, 3) Approved residential.

Fire sprinklers are not installed randomly. They are based on number of occupants, size of facility, etc. You can install sprinklers, but if they’re not certified (installed with certain size head, proper distance from wall, proper size pipe, etc.,) then they are just dead weight that will require larger roof joists AND will not help insurance rates, etc.

Fire Sprinkler systems properly designed provide a safe exit for tenants and can protect the building in case of an emergency. However, the hidden costs is upsizing the entire roof structure, providing a larger waterline to the building (usually a 4” minimum) and extending it back to the nearest 4” branch line, (which is usually located at a fire hydrant.) If you add future walls, then it needs to be redesigned because the walls could block sprinkler heads.

Fire Sprinkler systems are now required in all residential buildings with 3 or more units. However, that can be modified with the installation of fire walls (2 layers of drywall on both sides of the party wall). In addition, Residential Fire Sprinkler systems can be extended from nearby waterlines WITHIN the building, like kitchens, bathrooms, etc.

In addition, sprinklers are required if you don’t have openings every 50’ on two sides of the building. (Firemen like to squirt water in those openings.)
Most people don’t realize there is little to no cost savings on insurance. Whatever you save, they’ll charge you extra for water damage. Be careful.
Also, remember that Fire Sprinkler systems protect PROPERTY while additional egress doors protect LIVES.
If you want to do both, I’d suggest smoke detectors with extra alarms. They’re easy to install and easy to relocate when remodeling. They provide an EARLY warning system so both the tenants and building can be saved.


Wiring a double oven on a wall opposing the wiring?

No this is not safe nor to code. Extension cords cannot be concealed. A new circuit should be run to the new location and the old circuit decommissioned and/or removed.  Depending on if the oven is hardwired or corded will dictate how it should be terminated (either a plug or an electrical box).

It sounds like you are unfamiliar with this, so the "best" way is to contact a licensed electrician to completely this.


Batteries Not Included
Actually, maybe batteries are included, I actually don't know. But I do know it is battery powered.
That is very, very good from a safety standpoint - electricity and water don't mix, so any mains-powered device in a bathroom has to be built properly, and installed properly, to be safe. Battery powered devices (or at least, devices like this powered by AA batteries) are pretty safe.
However, as crazy as it sounds, that may be really bad from a usefulness standpoint. Specifically, the batteries will wear out. I would guess they will last somewhere between a week and a couple of months. Once they wear out, they will need to be replaced, probably several times a year.
Do you think your in-laws will change the batteries? If they will, great. If they won't, then you have overpaid for a grab bar to get a temporary gimmick.
A more expensive (because you'll need professional installation - my understanding is that in Australia homeowners can't do much electrical work themselves) solution is a ceiling light with a motion sensor. These are quite common in public bathrooms, but there is no reason you couldn't have one in a residential bathroom. Then if one of your in-laws wanders into the bathroom in the middle of the night, they will get the full bathroom light instead of (essentially) a small flashlight.


Proper wiring for GFCI given switched circuit

Just wire the GFCI between the wiring and the disposal so that it's on the switch (often, you would daisy chain the switch off of the GFCI and have the switched device hardwired, but that doesn't solve your problem).  So, in your diagram, the load side is where the current is coming in, the line side goes to the switch, and the disposal is obvious.  What you'll have is:

              Switch (I'm guessing this is "line?" in your diagram)
               | | |
Line           W G B           GFCI   Plug  Disposal
Black ---------+ | +--B------- Black  =----B
Green -----------+----G------- Green  =----G
White ----------------W------- White  =----W

In the switch, the input is the white, even though it's hot in the wiring, and the output of the switch is black, since that's what becomes hot to the next device.  When possible, I like to have my switch connected to a black and red wire, black always being hot, and red being switched.  But that's usually not convenient, so this is the best an electrician can do.


What primer should we use on a previously painted concrete wall?

You do not need to prime a previously painted concrete surface. The oil residue will cause adhesion problems with any surface coating, including "problem surface" primers. You need to use a detergent (or TSP) and warm water solution with a scrub brush and wash the oil residue off of the walls, then rinse clean. Then apply a high quality paint with top of the line applicators.


Is there any reason why I should have a contractor get a permit himself instead of getting it on my own?

It is just filing paperwork and maybe drawing up schematics.  In my town they like the home owners getting the permits.  For a panel replacement there isn't much to draw.  You probably have to label what you have and what you are putting in.  Just go down to city hall, tell them what you are doing, and they will tell you what they want from you.  Get the permit, save money, and make sure your electrician signs off on it at the end.

Also if you do the permit yourself you will be sure that the electrician is truly doing what you are paying him to do.  He could submit one with 80% of the work detailed and the inspector will not be looking for the other 20%.

And side note:  It is often easier in smaller towns to bundle permits.  Always ask yourself, "Do I have any other work I need to get done?"

And money saving note:  Permits are often based on the cost of the work done.  If the electrician charges you a lot to get the permit then the permit costs more.


Wiring a PigTail off a GFI outlet for 60Watt light bulb

Your lighting circuit should be pigtailed off the LINE side of things (essentially upstream of the outlet). This keeps the wiring a bit simpler and lights aren't typically GFCI protected anyway.

Basically the black coming into the LINE terminals should be connected to the black leading to your new switch box, and they should also connect to a pigtail leading to the outlet. Same with the whites, and the grounds all bundle together (green in the diagram below).

Source


How much linseed oil is needed to treat a beechwood counter top?

The oil that you use (or are thinking of buying) will typically list the coverage on the package or instructions as BMitch suggested in the comments.

For instance, on the website you linked to for the instructions, they sell this (randomly chosen by me, no endorsement) counter top oil, and in the description it says:

  One litre covers approximately 13 square metres per coat. It is touch dry within one hour and can be recoated within three hours depending on temperature and humidity.

So this 500ml can will cover 6.5 square meters, or give your 1 square meter surface about 3 coats.  You mention the depth of the counter top, but that shouldn't matter.  The oil is largely a surface treatment, and the coverage will not change based on the thickness of the wood.

It's been my experience that the first coat might "soak in" more than the additional coats, so the coverage won't be as high as advertised.  In the case of this oil, I would worry that a 250ml can wouldn't be quite enough, so I'd get a 500ml and feel good about having some extra for later.

Of course, look at the coverage on the oil that you want to buy and do the calculations for yourself.


Intermittent sewage smell from air ducts

Drain pipes have P-traps in them that hold water to seal the drain from sewer gasses that would otherwise waft up out of the drain.

Check your drains (sink and floor) to see if they have water in the traps.

(the smell is probably being moved around by the fan in the heater)


What is the name of this pool or irrigation part?

It is a zone indexing valve. They are commonly found on sprinkler systems to route the water to different areas. the design changes a lot so if you can find a brand name, it will help getting parts. Worse case scenario, you will have to replace the valve with a new one. good luck and stay safe out there.


What is the usual maximum load for drywall?

How much the drywall will withstand will depend largely upon its thickness.  1/8" drywall is pretty flimsy while 7/8" can take quite a tug.

If you're talking any more than just a few pounds, then seriously I wouldn't rely on drywall anchors - if necessary cut out some drywall and install a backer board.


My first thought is a dowel, glued in place. This will stiffen it some, but leave the crack. And epoxy can be on the brittle side.

So next, I thought, why not use a metal dowel? It adds more stiffness, more strength, but you still have the crack.

Another idea was a piece of all thread rod. Screw it right into the hole. This will give a great deal of holding power, preventing the crack from widening. But still you have that crack to fill.

Finally, I realized the perfect solution. McFeeleys sells it, in the form of a LONG screw, that is threaded only on the bottom half. Pre-drill a hole to get it started, and countersink it, so you can put a plug in afterwards to hide it completely. Then use the threads to draw the crack together as the screw tightens down. Add some glue (or epoxy if you prefer) into the crack before this operation, and the board will stay solid forever.

You can buy these screws in various lengths as needed.

https://www.mcfeelys.com/1-4-in-x-6-1-2-fastenmaster-headlok-screws-w-spider-drive-bit-qty-250.html


Is there a way to get hot water without altering plumbing or electrical wiring too much?

Check out the 1 or 2 gallon point of use heaters that install under the sink. They run on 120VAC and are fairly easy to install with minimal plumbing changes. There are also above sink mounted hot taps that mount into the sprayer hole in the sink. These are usually used for hot water for coffee/tea etc. Both of these type products are available at your local home improvement centers.

Here are several examples:  http://www.lowes.com/Plumbing/Water-Heaters/Point-of-Use-Water-Heaters/_/N-1z11qho/pl#!


Filling gap between pipe and wall- creating a fire stop

Home improvement stores generally carry the correct caulking for a fire stop. It is Fire-Barrier caulk or Fire-Stop, it is usually color coded so the inspector will know you used the correct one.

Check building codes in your area to know which one to use most are rated for 4 hours. Be careful if you order it off the internet because if the color is wrong you fail, even if it meets the local code.

For the gap there is also expanded foam that you can use, just make sure its rated and meets local codes.


Why is there a copper wire attached to this water pipe?

In the UK, current regulations require all metallic pipework be connected electrically, this is called equipotential bonding.

(images from electrician2hire)

By law, the connections must be labelled (typically with an embossed metal label)

I believe current regulations require this equipotential bonding in every room that has metal pipework. This helps guard against loss of earth bonding when a small section of copper pipe in between locations is replaced by plastic pipe. The clamps must be in a place where they can be inspected - which rules out hiding them under the floor or behind plasterboard (drywall.)


Should frameless glass shower door hinges be screwed into the wall at an angle?

Any of you know if this is normal?

I would say not normal.
Looking closely at the photos i would say that if the manufacturer had wanted the screws to be at an angle then they would have set the countersinks in the brackets at that specified angle so the heads did not stick out proud of the bracket, They did not. The countersinks are straight so therefore one can assume that the screws SHOULD go in straight.
I would surmise that  the installer is feeding you a line to cover his mistake.


recessed lights not working after outage, and problems removing housing clips

If the joints were made up properly in the junction box then there is nothing much to do by removing the fixture. If the fixtures have been working for years is not very likely a wire joint has suddenly failed.

More likely you have a bad connection on the switch or need to recheck your wiring coming to the switch.

Check for power coming to and leaving the switch and power at the light.


are those mold? and are these dangerous?

It looks like mold / mildew yes it can be killed with a bleach & water solution or a hydrogen peroxide and water mixture. Is it the “bad stuff” only testing will reveal that but to tell the truth that doesn’t look that bad. But killing it and keeping the area dry, making sure the vent fan is on when using the shower / bath will help get the moisture out that is allowing the mold to grow. I prefer 3% hydrogen peroxide and water AAA (always add acid to water to prevent an exothermic reaction.


You have two problems here:  one, hacking a two way switch where you ought to have a three way switch, and two, using a ground as a current carrying conductor.  You should put back the original three way switch immediately to be safe, and come up with a plan B.

Resolving the first problem is simple:  buy a smart switch made to replace a three way switch.

Resolving the ground wire issue is a little more difficult.  Your smart switch requires a neutral, but the box it's going in doesn't have a neutral.  (At least not that I can see in the photo.)  This is common when switches were wired with a switch loop, which is what it looks like you have here.

You have used a ground wire in place of a neutral.  Using a ground wire in place of the neutral works, but it isn't safe.  The ground wire should only conduct current in the event of a ground fault.  So you shouldn't have bootlegged the neutral, it's a code violation and a safety issue.

To rectify this, you could bring a neutral to the box by rewiring, that may be a small job, may be a big job, but it will work with just about any smart switch.

You could also choose a different smart switch.  There are smart switches that work without a neutral.  Most of these actually bootleg the neutral internally.  This seems like a terrible idea, but UL will only list a switch that bootlegs the neutral if it is tested and only passes a very small amount of current on the neutral - small enough that it isn't a safety issue.  So if a UL listed switch does it, it doesn't count as bootlegging.

Just make sure the switch is UL listed, and stick to a reputable brand - there are tons of products on the market from sketchy brands that are putting the UL logo on products that are not really UL listed.


Which furnace thermostats support variable swing/deadband?

Looks like many Honeywell thermostats have a "cycles per hour" setting instead of a deadband setting. Not exactly the same thing but roughly analogous. If your thermostat has that setting you could try changing it.

But if the cycle time is 10 seconds, I'm not sure the deadband is really the problem... even 1º should take longer than that. Do you have a hot air vent blowing directly on the thermostat or something? Or possibly some other problem with the furnace not lighting?


Shower valve: connecting 1/2 inch pipe to 1 inch shower valve (threaded)

That looks like one side of a union. The threads on the union nut engage with threads on the valve body to make a flat metal-to-metal seal.  Alternatively a special seal, now missing, might have fit in a groove and pipe dope was used to try to make it seal.

Pipe dope is to be used to seal threads. A union seals with two clean flat surfaces clamped together by threads, or with a special seal (not pipe dope). You might get it to seal by cleaning down to bare metal without gouging the surface, but it could be that a seal is needed.

EDIT

If you reinstall this part or a new one you will have to use a slip coupling, e.g., a Shark Bite 1/2" "slip" coupling. That way you won't have to use a torch inside the wall.


How to isolate heat from oven towards refrigerator?

A metal sheet, suspended between the surface of the stove and the fridge, would be safest, simplest and cheapest. Consider, though, how long the payback would be to the investment ROI): how often does the oven run, how much does it raise the temperature of the side of the 'fridge, and how much does electricity cost?

From the environmental standpoint, consider the energy used in fabricating a sheet of aluminum, and how much energy is saved.

For safety, do not apply insulation in a manner that would cause more heat to accumulate on a wall behind or next to the oven.


Isn't supplying three phase power to regular retail customers UNSTABLE?

In the USA, a small block shares a 240V split-phase transformer.  The primary of that transformer is on typically 2400 volt 3-phase delta, one leg obviously.   The next block over is tapped off different phases.
In Europe, a neighborhood gets a 415V 3-phase wye transformer, and the first house is connected to phase A and neutral, next house to B and neutral, next house to C and neutral, etc.  Some houses get 2 or 3 phases, particularly if they are load-heavy.  It's as simple as delivering one more wire.  They can then connect appliances to 415V, but that is rare except for serious tradesmen or hobbyists with industrial tools.
In Manhattan, a block gets 208V 3-phase wye, house 1 gets phase A and B and neutral, house 2 gets B, C and neutral, house 3 gets A and C etc.
Distant rural America often sees ~10kv single-phase with a transformer at each farmhouse. However this is one side of 3-phase delta, the next farm road will be tapped on the next phase.
Australia sometimes distributes at high voltage with a single wire and earth as neutral, literally one solitary wire on the pole.  It is 3-phase "wye" with the other 2 phases going down other distribution lines.

All distribution is 3-phase - if not to the pole, at least to the neighborhood.

So what choice do you have? Nobody is seriously going to run a big single-phase distribution system**, and do a large conversion from 3-phase to 1-phase, simply over imbalance.

It averages out

Imbalances aren't as big a deal as you might think.  With a sufficiently large number of houses to average over, eventually load per phase averages out.

If for some reason it doesn't, the power company can change which phase a particular flat or block is tapping.

Now if the town's large industry decides to heavily load one phase and create an imbalance, then they might get a serious talking-to by the power company.  Because they are big enough to create an imbalance too big to average out.

** Except the railroad.  Look on Amtrak's Northeast Corridor, see the even number of power lines?  Single phase.  They have to solve the "how do you put an enormous single-phase load on 3-phase" problem.


How much seam allowance should I have for drywall joints?

When hanging drywall material it is not necessary to leave a seam allowance between sheets. The main concern is to make sure that pieces fit up together without forcing into place. Forcing can cause edges to breakout and create an uneven surface when you come to do the taping.

I just also checked a SheetRock brand installation guide from USG for their gypsum wall board materials and they also are not recommending a "seam allowance".

On the other side of the fence you want to avoid leaving large gaps between sheets as well. These can be really problematic to get good results trying to bridge large gaps with tape and joint compound. My recommendation is to have no gaps larger than about 1/4 inch (5mm).

An exception can be made for certain types of joints that are to be trimmed over with edging. For example on an outside corner or in a banded door opening it can actually be an advantage to hold one corner of the drywall from the overlapping side as shown below. The space left makes it easier to line up the edging material on the corner when the walls and/or framing are not nice and true.


Does placing electrical cables in a fence between two structures meet electrical code?

Given that the horizontal studs are 1.5 inches deep plus the depth of the vertical planks being .5 inch ( guessing ) total depth is 2".  This is a good thing but, and I am going to have to emphasize the but, ..... this is not normal and given the amount and size of wires in there I am not comfortable saying this is okay.  But what do I know, I'm only a licensed master electrician who runs his own insured company. ;-)


Neutral is required at the celing light box. You can't wire up a celing light with just the hot and ground from the switch. It will work, but is dangerous and violates electrical code.
Your best bet here is to fish a new /2 cable from the box with the switched outlet up to the celing since this box has the required neutral, (switched) hot, and ground. If you don't want half of the recepticle to be switched also, you will need to replace it with one without the broken tab or pigtail the unswiched hot wire to both halves of the recepticle.
You still won't have neutral in the switch box, but this should be ok since you are not changing that part of the circuit and it can still be grandfathered.


Is there any code for running Ethernet cable (through attics)?

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 8 Communications Systems
Article 800 Communications Circuits
I. General
800.24 Mechanical Execution of Work. Communications circuits and equipment shall be installed in a neat and workmanlike manner. Cables installed exposed on the surface of ceilings and sidewalls shall be supported by the building structure in such a manner that the cable will not be damaged by normal building use. Such cables shall be secured by hardware, including straps, staples, cable ties, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable. The installation shall also conform to 300.4(D) and 300.11.
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 300 Wiring Methods
I. General Requirements
300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage.
(D) Cables and Raceways Parallel to Framing Members and Furring Strips. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed parallel to framing members, such as joists, rafters, or studs, or is installed parallel to furring strips, the cable or raceway shall be installed and supported so that the nearest outside surface of the cable or raceway is not less than 32 mm (11⁄4 in.) from the nearest edge of the framing member or furring strips where nails or screws are likely to penetrate. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by nails or screws by a steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent at least 1.6 mm (1⁄16 in.) thick.
300.11 Securing and Supporting.
Please see NEC for full text

So basically, you're going to want to protect and support the cables in a similar manner to any other cables.  Curiously, the code didn't mention 300.4(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.. Though I'd likely still follow that section if I had to run communication cables through wood members.
If you run the cable through conduit, you'll have to follow the code for protection and support (fill requirements do not need to be met, per 800.110(B).
If you run through a drop ceiling, you'll have to install support wires for the cable, or support it in another approved manner. You can't support the cable using the ceiling grid, or support wires.
Here's a great document from Mike Holt that explains Article 800 (with images).
Introduction to Article 800 - Communication Circuits (PDF)


Charging Irrigation System, Can I Do This Myself?

Does someone come out and "close" your sprinkler system for the winter?  I don't know much about lawn sprinkler systems, but "charging" sounds similar to opening a swimming pool.  Every fall, I drain all the water out of the lines for the pool and plug them so the water doesn't freeze and crack the lines.  In the spring, I then remove the plugs and prime the pump to get water back in the lines.  I would expect a similar procedure for a sprinkler system in a climate where freezing is a probability.


Sand evenly across the entire board to make it smooth.  Clean and remove all dust from sanding.  Respray as evenly as possible.  If you can get away with doing it indoors (a garage for example) that is recommended to reduce the number of airborne particles that land in the paint before it can dry.

To ensure an even coat my personal method is to gauge the coverage by sheen rather than color.  Meaning that if you view it at an angle the wet portions will be shinier than the less covered portions.  Color can be deceiving, look at the sheen, if the sheen matches (as you spray) across the piece, the final product will be more even as well.

Keep in mind that with spray paint it takes less time to do extra coats of paint than it does to put on too much and fix a poor result...tempting though it may be to try.


Are missed nails and gaps between members a concern in new construction framing?

That's not good. However, before you complain, grab the stud and see if it will move. It could be that the carpenter quickly fired 3 nails then realized he missed and got it right with a 2nd set of nails in which case there's nothing to worry about. Since there's a 2nd top plate (as there should be) you can't look to see if there's a 2nd set of nails, you can only try to move the stud. You may have to bang on it a bit, though with no weight on it, it should move reasonably easily if it's not actually nailed.
You could bring it up politely with the foreman, "Hey, that doesn't look quite right... Can you confirm that this was renailed?" Then wait for him to prove to you that it won't move.
I'd be more concerned, however, that the top plate joint isn't directly above the stud, but I'll leave it to the actual working carpenters here before panicking about that. I wouldn't have done that, but I don't know if it meets code or not.


how much can i have on a 20 amp breaker?

Add up the wattage on the lights, the stereo gear, the fan, and the TV, then divide by 120 and see if it's more than 20 -- although unless you have a monster amp on your stereo, I doubt you'll run into trouble there.

As to the receptacle itself, it's fine -- Code only apportions 180VA per receptacle yoke or lighting outlet.


The 1 lb tank will not supply the flow needed. you used the equivalent of a small hand torch with that bottle adapter to the 1 lb tank. There is a smaller than 5 gallon 20 lb tank I think it is 10 lb and will supply the proper flow of propane if you don’t have or want the standard size tank but need a few minutes of high flow. This is the most likely cause but the low temp and wind added or even compounded the problem. Hot tar can be an art but it’s easy to learn.
Getting the surface to be bonded hot enough to “wet” or turn the material surface to liquid then start sticking it down and continuing working it until sealed. With small patches I usually will add tar around the hole or in the area. I have seen guys step on the hot tar to smush it together but I was taught to use a roller so the tar is not smushed out in one spot next to a spot that is not smushed the roller helps for an even pressure, for a small patch the back of a garden rake works. And at last resort light pressure from the ball of your foot not full pressure and make sure to overlap but remember you only have 10-30 seconds depending on how warm you got everything. If you don’t have 10 seconds you are not heating the original surface enough.


Everyone seems to be answering a question that was not asked by the OP.  He is asking if using the bonding screws without also pigtailing the bonding conductors will suffice for bonding.

Yes, the picture you have shown is an appropriate way to bond the devices.

Edit:  Additionally, there is no requirement to bond the switches in the CEC with a separate bonding conductor, unless doing so is stated in the manufacturer's instructions.  The screws used to mount the switch to the box suffice as the bond.


California also requires battery backup for hardwired detectors.  So you could separate that circuit from the generator safely.

Most consumer level power generators do not produce the same quality of power as the power company.  Total harmonic distortion (THD) may be much higher.  Generac is a good company, but they don't specify a THD on the data sheet for  their 11/10kW Guardian Series generators.

I find that regular loss of power sets off hardwired detectors.  I just consider it a power failure alarm and move on.  The switchover from the power company to the backup generator will never be 100% smooth at this price level.


Adhesive tape: in the direction of expected stress or perpendicular to it?

Best solution I have seen is to make a recess and drop the mat in the recess.

Allows the mat to be taken out and cleaned, also no sticky residue.

source : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Matwell-Entrance-Surround-Insert/dp/B00PK4LNKM


how to t-type splice power wires to add a new outlets?

The usual solution is not "t-type connections". You normally can't do that inside walls. Assuming you don't have ~ 2 feet of slack in the wires, the way to do this is with two boxes a few feet apart. The key is that each box has to have several inches of wire inside the box. Hopefully you can do this without making three holes, but conceptually:
Note: You should actually cut all the holes at one time, otherwise you may "lose" the cable when you cut it. Also, be really, really sure, that power is off before you cut the cable, or you may be in for a shocking experience.

Hole # 1

Cut the cable.

Hole # 2 - at least a foot to the left of hole # 1.

Route the left section of the cut wires into a new box.
Add a new 3-foot section of cable and connect that as well (pigtail or in on one side, out on the other).

Hole # 3 - at least a foot to the right of hole # 1.

Route the right section of the cut wires into a new box.
Connect the new 3-foot section of cable as well (pigtail or in on one side, out on the other).
If having 3 receptacle boxes is OK then you could put a receptacle into hole # 1 as well, with one new section of cable from # 2 to # 1 and one from # 1 to # 3. If you don't like patching drywall, that may be less work than patching hole # 1.


How should a new brick wall tie into an existing wall?

If the new wall joins in the middle of the existing wall (eg making a T shape), you can use either wall starters (eg such as these ) fixed to the existing wall to accept both the inner and outer leaf of the wall or you can use frame cramps (eg such as these ) fixed individually for both leaves of the wall.

If the new wall continues along the same line as the old wall (ie it joins it at what is presently a corner), you would typically cut out the "half" bricks (ie every other course) to allow the extension wall to tie into the existing wall such that the bonding pattern matches and continues in the new wall. You would then use wall ties or starters for the inner leaf.

In both cases you should cut right though the outer leaf of the brickwork in the line of the cavity and insert a damp course (DPC) to prevent mositure tracking across and appearing as damp in the corner of the new extension. Ideally, you would cut out sufficient to allow an insualted DPC to be used to also prevent a "cold bridge" along the existing wall.

As you have correctly identified, you will also need cavity ties in the new wall.


Siliconed round windows before repainting jambs - should have done it after?

If you're okay with spending some more money to avoid labor then you can buy a shellac primer to paint over the silicone and then apply regular paint. Before painting clean the silicone with denatured alcohol for best adhesion. It is said that oil-based paints will stick to silicone as well.
If not then scrape off the new silicone and apply paintable silicone or the cheaper painter's caulk.


Wall switch connections for a ceiling fan and light

This, thankfully, is simple.  The black wire in that outgoing cable to the fan connects to the fan and the red wire connects to the light -- so you simply have to pigtail the black and red wires together with a wirenut and a short length of wire, and connect the pigtail to the switch terminal.  That will give you simultaneous control over the light and fan from that switch, while leaving your options open to install a double switch or fan controller later.


adding a ground wire to a 2-wire breaker panel

Since this is your main panel, you can land the ground wires on the same bar as the neutral, as this is the point where they come together anyway.  However, I don't believe you can "extend" the grounding bar using the cutoff bare wire from the panel, as it doesn't fall under anything in 250.130(C) -- if it were connected to a grounding electrode, it'd work though as it'd be a grounding electrode conductor then.


Is it safe to add shelving to truss members in my attic?

Trusses are engineered to support loads that are applied in certain ways.  It would often not be practical to make a truss support all of its required loads without it also being able to support some additional load applied in other places, but it's generally unwise to expect trusses to support much additional loading beyond their own weight.  For example, a truss which intended only to hold up a roof above it (and not a ceiling below) might well use a thinner bottom board than would be required to support a ceiling, and one which is intended only to support a ceiling might use a thinner board than one which is designed to support both a ceiling and a storage area.

Adding loads to a truss which are small relative to the weight of the truss itself (e.g. an attic light fixture) should be safe, but adding loads beyond that could be dangerous.  Note that applying a load in the middle of a truss member will create stress on that member proportional to the ratio of its length to its thickness.  If a truss has an 8' long 2x4 board with nothing attached to the middle of it, each pound of loading to the middle may increase the stress on some parts of the board by more than twenty pounds.  It's not hard to design trusses to withstand interior loading, but such trusses would cost more than those that aren't designed for such use.


How do I remove water marks / stains from a marble countertop?

The water 'stains' on the surface of marble are often etching from acidic chemical reactions. There are special marble polishing compounds that you can buff the surface with to restore it.


off grid solar connecting mixed panels best options

10 VOC for the 5 Watt panel means there is a problem with it.
Clean the panel, test again.
If still under 12 V it will not help your system anyway.


I don't think that gadget does that.  It certainly will allow you to override with an actual key.

Anyway, the thing you are looking for is a gadget that secures your door absolutely from the inside so nobody can unlock it.  That is not what a deadbolt does.  Deadbolts are designed to do that and also let people with keys through - that is the entire point of a "key-based" security system.

Now, either you have a seriously misplaced expectation of how door locks are supposed to work... or you have some sort of unique, special security problem that makes keys ineffective.  The answer to the second problem is "Try not to allow that to happen, and fix it immediately when it does."

That means if you lose control of your keys, change the keys ASAP so that the random or hostile person's keys no longer work.

Now you say you have a landlord.  It really sounds like you're trying to homebrew this without getting the landlord involved.  That's a mistake.  First, you have a legal obligation to tell him you lost control of a key.  Second, he is just as interested in the apartment's security as you are, because someone hostile to you is a direct threat to the apartment - the landlord fears kicked out drywall, smashed pipes to cause flooding, stolen appliances -- an angry guy can do a lot of damage to an apartment, way more than your deposit will ever cover. And that's on the landlord! (Well the bully will do it because it's on you legally, but landlords generally assume you'll be uncollectable.)

So get your landlord "in the loop" here.


I looked up the specs for your pump and it's a high volume irrigation pump, not a pressure pump.  It's not designed to build pressure. And why even bother with a 20 gal pressure tank? It might be able to build enough pressure for the pressure switch to shut it off if you lower it enough.
Your last sentence in your OP is correct.   If you are using it with an irrigation system and a controller, many can support a "master relay dry contact" to turn on the pump.
Edit:  Just re-read your question. What are you using the pump for on a boat dock?  To hose down the deck, hull, etc? Fill tanks for domestic water use? Hose down the dock?   Given the pump you have, you may have to install a simple disconnect to shut off the pump completely when not needed.


Is this a floor framing system? what is the difference between joist splices and floor joists?

Joists are just that, members that carry the sub-flooring or ceiling. A joist splicing occurs where the length of span of the floor is longer than the joists are capable of supporting so a beam or "girder" is placed under the ends of the joists. Joists from either side of the support beam overhang the beam some and overlap with their companion coming from the other side. This picture shows the concept:

Picture Source


How can I patch 1"- 2" gaps between coved plaster ceilings and new sheetrock walls?

one to two inches? How thick were the original plaster walls!?

A picture would probably help. What I'd suggest is bridge the transition from the coving to the wall with some crown moulding.


The holes are typically the same size as the dowel. Dowels are usually compressed wood, compressed in such a way that it leave lengthwise grooves in the sides all around. These grooves serve as a relief for the glue when the dowels are inserted, both dowel and hole should be coated. When the glue soaks in the dowel, the dowel will swell the dowel the little bit it was compressed, so it fits even tighter.


Can an escutcheon be mounted without the valve body plate?

You could get a pressure sensitive double stick tape to hold it in place while the clear caulk that is used to fix it in place cures.

The tape I refer to has a foam layer in the middle, so multiple layers can be used to hold it in place if needed.


Is torque important when drilling hole in ceramic tile?

I'm not a professional, but have drilled a lot of holes in masonry.  For a tile, I don't think that the torque will matter much, just chuck it, set it to high speed and drill.  Drill a test hole in a piece of scrap first, so you will know what to expect.  I think your toughest problem will be trying to get the hole started on your center accurately. Nicking the tile with a punch may help.

Drilling an 8" x 3/4 inch hole into 10 year old concrete will require a bit more torque.


Airbrush-size airless sprayer for painting interior trim?

You can switch out the tip on an airless to do smaller areas. The first digit is one half the fan size so a 211 has a .011" opening and sprays a 4" fan, that should be acceptable if a spray can works. It does presuppose you rented an airless sprayer. You may also need to change the filter and use a small amount of flow additive. Ask the rental place for advice and what the smallest tip they have is.

If you own an airbrush there's a chance you may be able to run a detail HVLP gun off your existing compressor. They require quite a bit less air than full sized guns do, and you might be able to squeak by with a pancake compressor if you're not spraying continuously.


How to fix gap between carpet and wall to prevent rodent?

When the management company sent a pest control specialist out to our apartment to deal with mice, he stuffed coarse steel wool or wire mesh into any little crevasses like that he could find. He claimed the mice couldn't chew through it, didn't like the feel of it. Not a great permanent solution, but maybe a good first try?


Option 1: You are going to need a roofing specialist to come and replace the flashing so the pipe has a snug fit around the pipe.  This is a pretty easy job if you have asphalt shingles.

Option 2: I had the same issue and fixed it by getting some roofing caulk and sealing the gaps around the pipe

Good Luck!


Water not reaching the overhead tank from mains pipe- flow ground to top to the overhead tank

Water pressure at the ground level is the issue here as your pipes go up you lose pressure at .445 pounds per foot 5 stories up ~50’ your pressure would be ~22 psi less this may not be enough pressure to open the valve to the tank. If you are on a well you can increase the cut out pressure on your pump. If on a city water system contact them about the low pressure. Other than that a booster pump to increase pressure may be needed to provide enough pressure for the tank to fill.


No.  You can not 'adapt' a dryer outlet to a stove.

Dryer outlets are typically 30A, and stoves 40 or 50.  You would need not only to change the outlet, but all wiring between it and the breaker panel, and the breaker itself.


There are stucco crack patch products out there. For lack of a better explanation, they are essentially sanded caulk:

Use that to fill in the cracks, then paint over with proper stucco paint (breathable latex).


You need to raise the returns to near the ceiling and possibly add more supplies and returns. A picture of the return and supply registers would help determine just how hard it will be to raise the  returns. Also, can this room be isolated from the lower level or is just an open stairway. In some of the condos near where I live it is not possible to maintain a comfortable temperature in these upper rooms without a 2nd dedicated unit due to the homes construction.


Most cost and time efficient way to sound dampen exterior wall with drywall

Better insulation between the studs helps a lot. You've probably got or your builder is spec'ing fiberglass, which isn't great for sound dampening. Upgrade to mineral wool. Also, a layer of rigid foam or preferably mineral wool on the outside of the wall--covering the plywood or OSB sheathing--will help a lot too.

Better windows also help, if you haven't bought them yet. Triple pane makes a difference vs double-pane.

If everything is already built, then obviously all of those options are fairly disruptive, and increasing the thickness of the drywall on the interior side is a decent approach.


It is really difficult to remove adhesive from plastics as they bind. You may have luck with the blade.

For the blade, Heat and friction is probably your best bet.

Heat up the cutting blade with a blow torch, then use a chisel or scraper to remove the softened adhesive.

If that doesn't work you can use alcohol and scrape it off, but that could take a while.

Just remember to be safe. Heated metal can leave nasty burns, and slipping whilst scraping can cause damage to your skin.


Can there be too many seams in a dryer vent pipe?

The number of seams is really not the issue.  The length is, but this is probably a better solution than alternatives.

When you put the pieces together, you should arrange that the downstream sections fit over the upstream, so the interior transition doesn't have an edge that lint catches on.

Another subtle thing, would be to try to put a slope down from the elbow to the exit, so any condensation runs out.  Avoid any dips.
I put aluminum tape on mine to seal the joints and keep it together.


Powering 12V LED strip thru European hinges

Yes, it's been done. For instance some GM cars supplied power to their rear hatch defogger through the hatchback lift springs (you know, that look like shock absorbers and help you lift the hatch).

However hinges are not made or listed to carry current, so you may run into trouble with poor contact and arcing at the hinge.

The right way to do that thing is to put a jumper strap across the hinge, made of a highly flexible braided wire made for thousands of flex cycles.


How do I connect a light to a switch when the light receives power first?

In general, a light switch breaks the hot wire lead when it is off and connects the hot wire lead when it is on.  The neutral lead and the ground lead are never broken (that is, they are connected, either continuously, or through a permanent attchment, such as a wire nut).

Power source through switch box -
When power comes through a box containing a light switch and continues on to the light, the switch is attached on one terminal to the black (or sometimes red) line from the power source and on the other terminal to the black (or red) line going on to the light.  The white neutral from the source and the white neutral to the light are connected directly. The bare or green ground lines are also connected (but are not show).

Power source directly to fixture -
When you want to add a switch to a light that is "hot" at the fixture, you can run a new 3 wire cable from the fixture to a box containing the new switch.  The black caries the "hot" to the switch, the red carries the hot back to the fixture. Both will be "hot" when the switch is on.

Most basic switches do not use or need the neutral line, but one is included for more complex switches that need to be powered.  The ground line (green or bare) should be attached to the ground screw on the switch (but is not shown).

At the fixture, you connect the black "hot" coming in from the source to the new black wire running from the switch, and the red switch wire is connected to the black "hot input of the fixture.

These descriptions of wire color are US conventions. In other countries, the color pattern may vary, but the principles are the same.

THIS ANSWER HAS BEEN UPDATED: Thanks to mfarver for the correction about neutrals to switches.


There are many steel building hardware options. Simple joist hangers would do if you don't mind adding studs on the other side of each joist. I'd probably sister 2x10 or other suitable joists and use double hangers.

One other option might be to bolt a ledger to the wall under the joists, giving them bearing. You'd have to box it out or fur out the entire wall to conceal it.

I'd just have a conversation with your local inspector and see what (s)he'll be expecting and what options are available.


What is the fully burdened hourly rate for an HVAC installer?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the underlying question you're asking is, "how do I determine a fair price for HVAC work?"

Unfortunately, answering that does not involve forensic accounting, as the four things that go into a price (labor, materials, overhead and profit) are all exceptionally (and surprisingly) variable. I wrote a small diatribe on that subject here: Is is appropriate to negotiate price with contractor

So, the same advice I gave on that other question applies here. Get quotes. Try to compare apples to apples. Find a contractor whose sensibilities match yours. If all the quotes come in too high, ask about what you might cut from the quote to get a better price. (Or maybe there's seasonality that can be used to your advantage.)


Electrical - 50 amp abandoned wiring from hot tub connected to breaker (outside)

If you're going to leave the breaker, you could just shut it off and/or disconnect the wires connected to it. Installing a lockout on the breaker, would prevent anybody from turning it on.  You should be able to buy a lockout in the electrical department of your local big box home improvement store for less than $10, though you may have to supply your own padlock.

If you want to install a box to terminate the wires in, you'll want to get a weatherproof box. If the wires are in conduit, get a box with an appropriately sized knockout. If the wires are in a cable, get a weatherproof bushing.  Mount the box in a convenient place, and feed the wires into it. If the wires are in a cable, don't forget to secure the cable near the box.

Once the wires are in the box, install a twist-on wire connector on the end of each wire. Then push the wires back into the box, and install a weatherproof cover on the box.


Where do I add window casing with a replacement window

Casing should almost always lap onto the current window jamb. It's the final edge for the wall finish. In your case, you have a slight level variation, which is usually handled with an extension jamb. You can also create a rabbet in your casing, which would result in an extension integrated into the casing.

In any case, the gap between the jambs should be insulated with fiberglass or low-expansion spray foam, and the casing should lap over the gap and onto the new jamb.

Ideally no joints are left flush. Each step should have a "reveal", creating a multi-level appearance. Flush joints are odd looking and difficult to get perfect.


How do I determine what size Generator I need?

You'll have to decide what you want to run (Refrigerator, furnace, TV, air conditioning, etc.). Then you'll have to determine how much power each item requires.

To determine how much power each item uses, you can use an estimate like this one provided by Energy.gov

  TYPICAL WATTAGES OF VARIOUS APPLIANCES

  Aquarium = 50–1210 Watts
  Clock radio = 10
  Coffee maker = 900–1200
  Clothes washer = 350–500
  Clothes dryer = 1800–5000
  Dishwasher = 1200–2400 (using the drying feature greatly increases energy consumption)
  Dehumidifier = 785
  Electric blanket (Single/Double) = 60 / 100
  Fans
  Ceiling = 65–175
  Window = 55–250
  Furnace = 750
  Whole house = 240–750
  Hair dryer = 1200–1875
  Heater (portable) = 750–1500
  Clothes iron = 1000–1800
  Microwave oven = 750–1100
  Personal computer
  CPU - awake / asleep = 120 / 30 or less
  Monitor - awake / asleep = 150 / 30 or less
  Laptop = 50
  Radio (stereo) = 70–400
  Refrigerator (frost-free, 16 cubic feet) = 725
  Televisions (color)

  19" = 65–110
  27" = 113
  36" = 133
  53" - 61" Projection = 170
  Flat screen = 120

  Toaster = 800–1400
  Toaster oven = 1225
  VCR/DVD = 17–21 / 20–25
  Vacuum cleaner = 1000–1440
  Water heater (40 gallon) = 4500–5500
  Water pump (deep well) = 250–1100
  Water bed (with heater, no cover) = 120–380

You could also check the nameplate of each device, which should either list wattage directly or provide enough information for you to calculate it. If you have to calculate wattage from the nameplate, Ohm's law will be your friend.

Watts (P) = Volts (V or E) x current (A or I)


A thermostat is basically a few contact closures that are controlled by a temperature switch and a schedule (on programmable models).  You can split the wires going to your single thermostat and run them in parallel to more than one thermostat.  Your plan will work and with the cost of 7-day programmable thermostats, it's probably the cheapest option.

However, as others have noted, WiFi thermostats are the future, and if you have a C-wire available (search this site for tons of info on C-wires), they can be great.  Nest is not the only "smart" thermostat available, and I for one do not like the way it claims to "learn" my schedule.  I use a cheaper WiFi thermostat that can be programmed just like traditional models to very specific times and temperatures without any guesswork.