How do I attach a deck joist to a ledger at an inside corner of the house?

When I built my deck I used a the same joist hanger as the rest of the joists but moved it and the joist inward the thickness of the joist. Then nailed/screwed an additional joist to its face to even it up to the edge of the ledger. This worked well because it gave me twice the thickness to secure the planks and kept the nails/screws away from the edge. The additional piece could be raised to the height of the planks it you wanted to frame in the planks.


What is the maximum load for EACH of the standard US 120V electrical outlets?

No single plug-connected item is permitted to draw more than 80% of the rating of the circuit. That would be 12 amps for a 15 amp circuit and 16 amps for a 20 amp circuit. You will not find item sold with a 15 amp plug that draws more than 12 amps or an item with a 20 amp plug that draws more than 16 amps. However, there is nothing to prevent 15 or 20 amps of load from being connected through a power strip. Also, 15 amp outlets are permitted to be used on a 20 amp circuit. That would indicate that each individual 15 amp outlet or pair would need to be capable of 20 amps.

Edit:
What is permitted is stated in the National Electrical Code, article 210. The use of 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit covered by Table 210.21(B)(1) and the 80% limitation is covered by paragraph 210.23(A)(1).

Re answer by Bryce
The main answer is direct and to the point, but the last part is not true.


Can I direct wire a light with a fused plug?

You need to learn the marvelous world of low voltage LED strips

Seriously.  You get a common 12 volt UL-listed power supply, and a small junction box to splice, and the world is your oyster.

The strips price out at about $7 for 16 feet no kidding.  Not $7/foot, more like 43 cents a foot.

Since you're working entirely in low voltage, you're at basically nil risk of shocking anyone or setting anything on fire.  The installation rules are also VERY relaxed, and there's no problem doing what you want the way you plan to.

Which you cannot do with 120V stuff, by the way.


Poplar helicopter seeds stuck in deck gaps

Use a butter knife and push them through the gaps


How can I replace a ceiling fan light pull chain?

Since you didn't provide a picture, or a very helpful description of what you're looking at. I'll try answering your question by explaining how the switch itself works, which will hopefully help you understand the problem better.

Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Pull Chain Switch

The pull chain switch that controls the light(s), is a single pole single throw (SPST) switch. It has two positions ON (Closed), and OFF (Open). Drawn simply, it would look something like this.

Switch shown in ON (Closed) position.

When the switch is in the ON (Closed) position, current is allowed to flow through the switch, through the light(s), and back to the the source (via neutral).

When the chain is pulled and released, the internal contact rotates 90° (1/4 turn) into the OFF (Open) position.

When the switch is in this position, current is not allowed to flow through the switch, and the light is not lit.

This is why the pull chain switch that controls the light(s) only has two leads.

Single Pole Multiple Throw (SPnT) Pull Chain Switch

The pull chain switch that controls the fan, is a single pole multiple throw switch. It has multiple positions, which allows it to control the speed of the fan. Draw simply, it would look something like this.

Switch shown in OFF (Open) position.

When the chain is pulled and released on this switch, the internal contact rotates 45° (1/8 turn) to the next position.

Another pull, another turn.

Pull again, turn some more.

One final pull brings the switch 180° around, and again to the OFF (Open) position.

By manipulating the output of this switch, the fan is able to whirl around at various speeds depending on the switches position. The number of output leads, will depend on the switch. How those leads are connected to the fan motor, will depend on the fan manufacturer.  This simply illustrates the basic principle of how the switch works.

As always electrical work can be dangerous, never be afraid to contact a qualified Electrician


How can I fix this shower drain and eliminate its odor?

Here is what i did to remove the odor from my drain.
1)Use a screwdriver to remove the trap.
2) Put 1/4 cup of baking soda down the drain.
3)Follow it with one cup of white vinegar into the   drain.
4)Let that sit for 1-2 hours with the bathroom door closed.
5)Slowly pour a gallon of hot (just-off-the-stove-boiling) water down the drain.
6*)After fifteen minutes, run cold water for ten minutes to thoroughly rinse the vinegar down. This step (#6)is very important so don't skip it!
7)Pour 1/2 cup chlorine bleach into the drain and let it sit for another 1-2 hours.
8)Rinse with another gallon of boiling water poured slowly.
9)Turn on the shower’s water faucet, and let the water run for ten minutes. By now, ample water should be standing in the “U” curve of the p-trap.
10)The last step is to pour four ounces of mineral oil (plain cooking oil will work in a pinch) into the drain. The oil floats on the water in the trap and slows evaporation.
11)Replace the trap
     FYI** NEVER  mix BLEACH  and VINEGAR , or you will create toxic chlorine and chloramine gas. Step #6 is crucial to avoid this danger!.


What can I do about this gap between the sill/exterior board and the subfloor?

There should be no gap.  Looks like shoddy construction.

See figure 16 from this page for proper alignment:

Also I have never seen a "band" or "rim" joist that are configured in the fashion described by your image.  It can't be good that half of the wall is resting out in space.

You could rip a board to fit the gap so that the weight of the wall is transferred to the foundation evenly, but I would probably call a professional to see if that option is even structurally sound.  I would not fill it with spray foam.  Fix the structure first, then insulate.


How do I fix a leaking garden hose connection?

If it's leaking there, on a brand new hose with brand-new washer, I'm going to have to bet on the threads on the hose spigot being damaged. That should be evident if you look at them, and may be amenable to fixing with a triangular file.

The hose is not tightened, so the rubber seal is not sealing on the end of the spigot. If it's cross-threaded, or suffering thread damage, it may not be possible to tighten it until it's either put on correctly, or the damage is removed. If it's been cross-threaded with excessive force, the threads will also be damaged.


How do I darken new mortar in a brick wall to match the older mortar?

Universal dyes might do what you want.  The trick is having the patience to test them to final color at dryness  Here's one color brand (no association, haven't used them)

The source here (National Park Service) recommended against them (dyes), and they might diverge in color over time.  They suggested cleaning the surrounding area.

Diluted muratic acid brushing/power wash at a months's time would blend the old and new effectively (use protective gear/old cloths/gloves/goggles) hose down landscape plants beforehand)

Here's a tutorial for cleaning mortar off brick from Fine Homebuilding


Should I clean my boiler room duct (ventilation)?

I think you have a good handle on it.
"If correct, is it a big issue if it is blocked/clogged?"
Yes and no.   If blocked, air will be drawn into the house through chimneys, bathroom/kitchen/dryer vents, leaky windows, etc.  That air would be cold and uncomfortable.   But not dangerous.  It will eventually move to the furnace room.
Clean that screen and the air drawn in will be used by the furnace and water heater and not cool down the house.


Forced Hot Air temp out of vents seems too hot

Add inlet area with filter to the furnace. This permits more air to flow over the furnace tubes. The furnace will be putting out about the same amount of heat but it will have a larger amount of air so the air temperature will not be as high. And as commented, make certain all dampers are open; there may be dampers in the ducts not just at the outlet grills.


Can someone identify this fan switch (PHOTO)

It's a Progress Lighting in-wall remote.

It's designed for places that only have a single circuit between the switch and the fan/light combo. Constant power is fed directly thru the switch to the fan. There is stand-alone a receiver module in the fan canopy.  The "switch" send wireless remote signals just like a handheld remote would.


Is it safe to convert a shunted tombstone lamp socket to a non-shunted socket by cutting the shunt?

You can't hack a shunted lampholder to be a non-shunted unless it's designed to do that.  For one thing there is no place to attach the wires. Yes, there are two wire holes, but a non-shunted holder has four.

You have three options:

stay with instant-start fluorescent... I am because the CRI is better
change lampholders to non-shunted type
take care to select LED "tubes" which take power from opposite ends of the tube

You should certainly not be modifying the wiring before you have seen the wiring diagram which comes with your LED tubes.  You may find your tubes require a different wiring than what you did.


Branch circuit sizing for 5 HP 3-phase 230 V motor run on 208 V?

When selecting conductors for motors in the US, you do NOT use the motor nameplate FLA, you use values from a table in the NEC, in this case table 430.250. The value in that table for 5HP @208V is 16.7A, so you use 125%, ergo 20.9A. The 12ga 30A rating you quote is for 90C, you can only use that value when de-rating, so assuming you are correct on the de-rate factor (I'm not checking your work), you are still fine.

The only thing you use the nameplate FLA for is in selecting the Overload Protection.


How should coax cable enter the house in a harsh climate?

I don't think it matters all that much. I can't find a minimum operating temp for coax, but most wires tend to list -20C as their minimum, and that's mostly for bending reasons. So if it got hit in the middle of winter, maybe it might get damaged. Maybe...

As far as weatherproof... What you have in your picture is the grounding block. I have plenty of coax connections exposed to the elements. I've not seen them experience anything bad from it. More modern installs tend to put this inside a plastic box but I had a satellite dish with a block like that and it was fully exposed as well.

If I were you, however, I would check the wire going into the house. My bet is it's RG59. If you're looking to improve this you could

Replace the RG59 with RG6 (quad shield if you can get it). You'll get a better signal, which is important for things like cable modems.
Put it in conduit. PVC electrical conduit is cheap and if you can limit exposure to the elements it's worth the effort.


How can I level out this hanging light fixture?

To me it looks like the arms might have been bent/rotated slightly which causes the imbalance.

Try to see if the arms can be bent/rotated at the joint and try playing around with their positions.

It also looks like the chain can slide horizontally within the shackle, possibly you could balance it out a bit there as well.

Alternatively, if the metal is magnetic you could try buying some small magnets and try balancing them out like that.


Can I run my 40 Amp Range Stove partially on a 30 Amp generator

I'd take a third option here.  You clearly have a place to store fuel and someplace where you can run it so I would suggest a propane tank and stove.  Cheap, very long shelf life so long as it's stored shielded from water.  (The propane lasts forever, the tank can rust.  Note that the tank has a 12 year expiry date--you won't be able to refill it after that, but what you have in it will still work.)
You'll get a lot more cooking per pound of fuel and you very well might be able to use a smaller generator.


Will having reversed hot and cold damage my faucet?

The biggest risk is someone being burned.  In North America, cold should always be on the right side and hot on the left.  If you are outside of this region you should check with local standards.

It sounds like you either bought a faucet from a different region, or maybe your original faucet was installed backwards.

With regards to the actual plumbing, it shouldn't make a difference which side you are hooked up to.


There is absolutely, positively, no practical way to ensure that:

  "no heat leaks through the interior walls into the adjoining rooms"

Even with "space-age" technology. If spacecraft did not have thermal control/management systems, the astronauts (and equipment) would suffer wild unsurvivable temperature swings due to radiated heat from the sun being conducted through the walls/body of the craft.


It has a larger jaw opening compared to the handle length - so it can be used in confined spaces ie under sinks baths etc

An "ordinary" adjustable with that jaw opening may have a handle of 18" to 24" or more...


I have a jcb corded drill that seems to have suddenly stopped working

Might be worn out brushes, which should be a $5 fix, but the actual price will depend on the specific drill and parts suppliers - as will how easy or difficult it is. Can be a 2-minute job (nice externally accessible brush caps), can take 30 when you have ot open the whole case up to get to them.

Might also be a bad switch, which is usually more money and more time to change out.

Third possibility is a loose wire connection.


Replacing subpanel in detached building - yet another ground/neutral question

Ok, just got off the phone with a guy from our regional building department.  The conductor that is buried with the gas line is NOT meant to electrically connect the metal pipe in the garage with the main service line (& therefore house, which has metal pipe from meter).  The conductor is a tracer and is only there to assist in locating the gas line.  It should not be connected to the pipe at either end.

So with a plastic pipe on the gas, there is no alternate conductive path back to the house, so I'm good on Requirement 2.  I just bond the neutral & ground at the sub-panel and put in two grounding rods (which should have been there for the old system as well).


Are there any new and/or innovative quality countertop products on the market?

If you can figure out your design precisely - length, width, any odd corners, sinks, etc. - then I suggest taking a look at "solid surface" such as "cultured marble". Essentially some sort of resin with color and "stuff" mixed in. Reasonably hard - but not as hard or as heavy as stone (granite, quartz, etc.) and can be ordered in any shape/size. Depending on your area, you may be best off ordering through a big box store or "kitchen/bath design" place (some overhead built in, but they know the process to order things the right way and you have recourse if there are problems) or order direct. For a variety of reasons, I wouldn't recommend this type of surface as much for a kitchen, but for a bathroom it can be ideal, and doesn't (at least when I got it) cost a fortune. If you are OK with integral sinks then it works even better (just add faucet & plumbing and you are done), which is not an option with real stone or many other materials.
To clarify a bit, this type of material is DIY in the sense of installation. It is most definitely not DIY in terms of fabrication. You don't order it in 4 or 6 or 8 foot lengths and cut to size - you order exactly the length you need. You don't order it and then cut a big hole for a sink and drill small holes for the faucet - you order it with all those holes (and possibly an integral sink) molded into it.


pond pump humming, but water keeps flowing

Pump motors usually spin fairly easily. My guess is the bearing seals have failed and the extra drag is causing the motor to buzz or hum.
It is possible you can disable and get to the bearings on the shaft. It is normally the output shaft bearing that fails.
A high quality double sealed bearing for a small pump like that will normally be only a few dollars, and you do want a type ZZ or 2RS with most brand  zz= double sealed 2RS is 2 rubber seal , so look for a number like 188zz or 608-2RS  these are examples of the 2 smallest motor bearings I have on the shelf that I use in motor applications both are well under 1$ each and I usually purchase 10 at a time because they are cheaper but you want the rubber sealed.
Be careful on disassembly as there may be a seal just like an oil seal on a car crank shaft that is usually able to be re used if careful.
But it’s well worth it to repair a nice motor for 2$  and an hours time that may save over 100$.


How Can I install a 4inch ceiling fan in a 3 inch hole?

I measured the “universal cross bar” so the flaps were at the right distance for my fan mount.
I then realized I could screw the universal cross bar into the smaller ceiling mount.

I then screwed the fan mount into the “flaps” of the crossbar (which is pretty flush with the ceiling) and into the ceiling.

Even though there is “nothing on the other side” of the flaps, when I screwed the fan mount into the “flaps” of the “universal cross bar” - it does not appear that the fan will rip out of the ceiling.

I think the reason the fan doesn’t rip out of the ceiling is because the screw that went into the flap is a pretty tight fit


If the lamp is properly wired, the shell of the socket is connected to neutral. This means that, under normal conditions, the voltage on the shell is minimal vs. ground and so this is generally safe. However, in case of an open neutral or a miss-wired socket with hot on the shell, this could expose lethal voltages.

If this a chandelier which is out of reach, I'd not hesitate to use this bulb. Otherwise, I'd prefer to use a better fitting bulb.


Did I install this motion detecting light switch correctly?

Looks good. If you were concerned about the "red" .vs. "black" on your load wiring, don't be. Generic instructions often don't do well in specific cases.


Can I move the expansion chamber to the side of the hot water heater?

Yes, but keep the can in the same orientation as it was (or research your particular model to confirm if it can be oriented differently).

Make sure the valves in the system are configured the same (e.g. the check valve).


Hard-wired smoke detector chirps when light switch flipped

I think I have figured it out. One of the guys in the comments suggested that it chirps every time it switches between current and battery. What I think was happening was not that the lines were directly connected to the  switches, but that they were getting EM interference from the current changes on the switched lines. I took apart the old detector and determined that it was too old to keep using. I installed a new one, and the problem disappeared. I would need an oscilloscope to confirm the interference theory, but it makes the most sense.


Can I use a nailer with a higher consumption than my compressor's SCFM rating?

You can use a smaller SCFM compressor than what your nailer requires the only drawback is you will need to nail at a slower pace or your nail set(how deep they are driven) will not be consistant.


How do I tell if a bag of concrete is OK?

Without opening...lift them, they should have some squeeze/give and feel soft. Hard as a rock, then most likely not good.


Anchoring shelves on hollow wall backed by brick

I ended up buying a half-inch masonry bit and drilling into the brick behind the holes far enough so that I had sufficient clearance to deploy the snap toggles.


What options exist for replacing or upgrading heater radiators?

Cleaning the existing radiator is a good idea.  Now, before replacing with baseboard units, a couple things to consider.  You want roughly the same heat output rating (BTU/hr or similar), which may be difficult to calculate for the existing piping.  (Any new basebord finstock will have its rating on the packaging). Most likely you'll need a long-ish baseboard run to match the existing radiator's output.
Unless you have cosmetic objections to the existing radiators -- and keep in mind you can probably buy different covers, or re-paint the ones you have -- you might as well stick with what you have rather than rerouting the feed&return pipes to fit a baseboard run.
BTW,  if the wall behind the radiator is not insulated and preferable covered with reflective metal foil (to maximize directing heat into the room), you should do that.
edit
I looked up a few vendors of replacement covers. You will have to check the desired dimensions, of course.
improvementscatalog    shuttershack  .


Open Compute Server needs 220v to run. Can I use voltage convertor to run it?

In the US, you have easy access to 240 volts. Look up a tutorial on how to add a circuit for a dryer or an electric stove.


Type of conduit box to use for a Ring doorbell + keyed entry

As requested : The type of box if only a ring type doorbell would be a Single gang Bell box. These can be found with 1" threaded holes and with the proper gasket and cover would be waterproof. If you have additional devices like the key switch a double gang Bell box would be my next choice. Make sure to plug any unused holes in the bell box, I use a little RTV or silicone sealer on the threads on the top of the box so water cannot get in if sitting level water will pool in the small depression and over time may get in to your electronics, this is why I take the extra step of sealing the threads


Measuring Incoming Gas Pressure to Stove

The standard gas pressure supplied to houses is 7" WC. Go to the website of your gas supplier and find out what they supply.

If you want to test this yourself, just connect the manometer to the tap and see what you have. This will be a static test and the pressure could drop when the gas is flowing, but probably it won't drop significantly. It is marginally better to use a Tee and test the pressure under flow, but for a minimal verification a static test is sufficient


Is there any way to figure out if your outdoor faucet is frost free?

When you turn the water off does it dribble for a few seconds like a 6 or 8" pipe back in the wall. The absolute way would be to pull the valve stem but this requires turning the water off.  Looking at your faucet it is a frost free. The valve seat is usually inside the wall with the supply pipe, this is how I have seen and plumbed them. Makes a hell of a mess when they break but if the home is heated that almost never happens. Some go into the crawl space these were put in by some sick puppies in my area they freeze under the house to fix swimming in ice mud. Note keep your valves open on that Y or the water gets stuck and will break the pipe with a good freeze.


If the steel legs are hollow, you could possibly drive some
steel rebar pieces vertically and get 4 people to help you set it down on the ground over the 4 exposed rebars.

Parts:
4 pieces of 6 foot long rebar's ( Home Depot /Lowe's sells 6ft length rebars.

Tools: Mini Sledge hammer

To do:
Drive  4ea 6 ft rebar's into the ground 3-4ft deep

Theory:
If this gazebo is sitting over 4 rebar's which are driven 3-4 ft. in the ground, and exposed 2-3 ft out of the ground, there's no way the wind is going to "knock it over.." And only you will know the secret.


Your ductless system will require 220-volts to operate.  Anything else will damage the unit.  The conventional receptacle near by is of no help.  Besides, even is it was a dedicated circuit and could be converted, you still need a 110-volt receptacle near by for service.   You will need to bring a new 12-Gauge 2-wire circuit to the location.  Good luck. You are gonna love the ductless system.


The thermolec is a make up air duct heater , the lightning strike may have damaged the control board is the occupency sensor causing the fan to run as long as there is power. I would turn the breaker off pull the controller (switch) and disconnect its power  if the fan stops you know where the problem is the switch. If the fan continues to run with the power restored and the switch disconnected the thermolec duct heater may be controlling it and that would be the next item to remove power from the controller (with the power off). I would guess the occupancy sensor part of the switch failed.


Cant I just use a 24v wall instead of a tranformer?

If it is a match - 24/vac and rated for the necessary amperage and duty cycle - it will run the controls.  However the furnace manufacturer's / local code requirements will probably demand a permanently wired unit.


Light switch with 3 sets of wires (not 3 way)

Yes, you're on the right track: the three neutrals should remain bundled together. Simply add the neutral from the wifi switch into that group.


Honestly, It can be a giant pain in the butt.

You start with covering it with a thick blanket or two and smashing it with a sledgehammer to bust it up into pieces (yeah, that's really how it's done).  The blanket is to prevent getting yourself cut up by flying pieces of cast iron and porcelain.  You might also have to bust out the tile/brickwork as well, depending on how things fit together.

To get the new tub in, you might just be able to get it in the door, but many bathroom doors in older houses are of the 24" variety and you can't fit a tub through them - especially if it's a one piece shower/tub system.  If that's the case you will probably need to take the door out, cut out a stud on one side and bust up the wall a bit to get the new unit in.  Then of course rebuild it all once you got the new tub in.

I would strongly consider re-glazing your existing tub.  It can really make a crappy old tub look like brand new.


This is how it is meant to be mounted.

The plastic cabinet does not support any weight.

If you put a large washer, or cardboard over the plastic cabinet without using a spacer, then you run a chance of crushing the plastic of the cabinet when you tighten the bolts.


Window AC unit LCDI tripping when powered by my solar inverter

The LDCI or air conditioner microcontroller may be checking for proper grounding.  You should have exactly one neutral-ground bond.  When on shore power, that bond is on the shore-side so the RV should have no bond. When on inverter, that must come from inverter, and be removed when on shore.

Other than that, I suspect the inverter is much too small for the cheap A/C's startup surge, which the Kill-a-Watt is dramatically under-reporting.

Keep in mind a residential grade air conditioner will be quickly destroyed by the vibration of a moving vehicle.

Hacking out the LDCI may not be practicable.  We have seen reports of the LDCI communicating with the onboard controller on the A/C, to the effect that the controller will refuse to start if it is unable to detect the LDCI.  Emulating this may be challenging.

Keep in mind also that lead-acid batteries are a "lie".  Using anywhere near their full claimed amp-hour capacity damages the battery - common wisdom is to only go down to 70-80% SOC in daily use (i.e. Only use 20-30% of the battery's capacity).  Consider your battery to have 20-30AH.

Lithium batteries are also a lie, but a much smaller one :) as 60-70% of the battery's range can be used daily without deterioration or fire.  Only allowing you to use part of the range (and giving you more battery to compensate) is how companies like Tesla and Apple get impressive reliability from their batteries.

Your A/C unit will draw 35 amps or so unassisted by the solar panels.  So not even 1 hour of runtime. Watch your draws and SoC carefully.

Preventing solar gain is a great deal more valuable than running A/C.  White paint, insulation, whole nine yards.

The Kill-a-Watt is not accurately reporting startup current of the A/C.  It is not fast enough, as the peak startup current comes and goes faster than Kill-a-Watt's sampling rate. Cheap A/C units use simple motors (i.e. Not VFD soft-start drives) and startup current will be "locked rotor amperage" which is typically 5-10x running amperage.

So I suspect the inverter is "browning out" and this is tripping the LDCI.

You can fix that with a much larger inverter (with correspondingly-larger idling and conversion losses) or an air conditioner with a VFD on the motor, with soft-start as the least of its features, which will be a more pricey model.  This will do nothing to rectify the vibration problem.

Another option is to go 12/24V A/C packs, but you would probably have to build this out of components intended for marine application, at nosebleed marine prices, but the vibration issue still might getcha.

Lastly, you might try a Thermo King style pack as used for standby power and HVAC on semi's.  They can often work multi-mode, off onboard gen, battery or utility. Search for a rebuildable one in a junkyard.


Primer Bulls Eye 123 is peeling off newly flattened walls with AG joint compound

It has been my experience that primer over drywall mud requires a looooooooog dry time. The primer is a water based product that will soften up drywall mud even over 1/8 inch thick. Your using the damp cloth to clean off dust instead of using a vacuum and tack cloths probably lent some to the softening as well. I had to wait a full week before I applied a second coat of the primer.

If you applied painters tape to primer when the underlying mud was even a slight amount damp the paint will come off.


Yes, this is a plunge router. Note in particular the second photo,which shows the adjustable depth stop rod and the turret beneath it which allows progressively stepping the bit deeper in successive passes until it reaches the intended depth.

The fact that the base is attached via two smooth rods that guide the plunge also makes this fairly obvious.


Are backflow preventers for irrigation required to be lead-free if the upstream source is a potable water system?

The interpretation of statutes and laws (which are often deliberately inexact and/or vague) happens in court when an entity protests a citation or complaint, or when the regulatory authority decides or is compelled to deliver an interpretation. Until one of these happens, it is up to you to interpret as well as you can. You should think of it this way: "how would a majority of average right-minded persons interpret this?"

My interpretation (whatever it is worth) is that the device is located on a line that is not "providing water for human consumption"; additionally, the device is specifically designed to prevent water from flowing back towards systems that are "providing water for human consumption". Also, this product is specifically designed for use in irrigation systems...


Ideas for making a backyard fort moveable

Make the base frame with locating points so you can fit axles underneath. Also make sure the frame will be limited in its flexing.
There are truck companies with special low trailers that may help, but will you like the price?
I would think around and design around the issue.


What's causing the popping noise from my speakers?

This could be a bunch of problems, from a missing ground to a voltage spike, to dying speakers, etc...

First of all, it would be helpful to rule in/out the computer as the source of the popping. It's possible your computer's sound card is not great and is sending those noises to the speaker, which is faithfully playing them. Try plugging the speakers into a different device (e.g. an iPod), AT THE SAME OUTLET. Then see if you get the popping noises.

If you still do, try moving the speakers to a different outlet somewhere else in the house. Event though the light switch doesn't control the computer's outlet, they could still be on the same circuit and causing some other kind of interference.

If moving the speakers to a different outlet solves the problem, there may be issue with the wiring. (Could be the switch is bad and is causing a ground fault or something. Or maybe the unused switched outlets are bad. Or something else.)

As @Tester101 says in his comment, problems with the ground can cause audio issues. Do the speakers have a ground pin (3rd prong), and if so, is the outlet properly grounded? You can also get so-called "ground loops" when different components have different grounds, which can cause a voltage difference—are the computer and speakers plugged into different outlets?

An outlet tester is an easy and safe way to do quick sanity checks on outlet wiring. You just plug it into an outlet and the lights will tell you if there are some common wiring problems. If I were you I would pick one up and test all of the outlets, including the unused switched ones.


How can I smooth out a poor drywall repair?

You will need to smooth it out by applying increasingly wide applications of drywall mud; depending on how rough it is it might take 2-3 coats.  You would then sand it smooth, prime and repaint the entire surface.

Unless the drywall is water damaged or has significant physical damage (doesn't look like the case), you will not have to cut out anything.

On the ceiling you might be able to get away with just repainting the entire ceiling (prime first!) as people are unlikely to get close enough to it to really notice a few imperfections. I suspect it is more noticeable in your case because of the color difference due to the paint fading at different rates.


Can you safely drill into the track/jamb of a vinyl window?

The inside of a typical vinyl window frame will have spaced out chambers separated by vinyl webbing as a thermal and drainage system. The sill track channel of the windows should always allow water to drain, if water enters into the track a small hole will direct water through the frame and out the exterior weeps.

If a screw is drilled through the entire frame of a drain chamber water could possibly leak into the framing below and possibly cause dry rot or moldy insulation. I would not recommend drilling anything through the entire frame of a window sill, I've seen it too many times cause damage in just a couple years. Hardware through the first layer of vinyl, probably nothing to worry about. Its common the first layer of vinyl is used to attach hardware even on the sill.


Hot water is not getting hot in kitchen sink only

It depends on how you get hot water. There may be a "tankless" water heater under the sink, or very close to it, that was turned off during countertop installation. This is likely, because the sink is getting water, but it does not get hot. If that's the case, just find the instructions for turning it on, and check circuit-breakers as well.

These heaters are popular where energy is costly, since they run only on demand.


Is it safe to store a wheel/tire set in my garage loft area?

I'm no expert, but I suspect that there won't be any harm in storing them there. I assume, they are just your seasonal tires? Someone had to be up there to install the shelving, which would have been more weight concentrated in a smaller area (a foot). So the distributed weight of the tires should have no effect. In my In-laws garage, they store all sorts of stuff up there, bins and boxes full of clothes and other things.


What are "backstab" receptacles/outlets?

If I understand correctly, "backstabbed" receptacles are such that:

Have holes in the wall-facing side,
into which you push a wire, and
the wire is held by the pressure of metal plate pushing against it - a bit like a spring.

You may also find them referred to as "back-wire" or "quick-wire" receptacles.
important: "backstabbed" receptables are notorious for low reliability, and specifically, the tendency to overheat, arc and melt. Many suggest avoiding or replacing them.
Illustration of how such holes may look like from the back:

and here is a comparison between a clamping-based (on the right) and a "back-stab" mechanism (on the left):

There's a longer treatment of back-stabbing on Quora.com:
What does it mean when an electrical outlet is backstabbed


What is the incremental benefit of AC canned outdoor coil cleaner?

I use concentrated liquid and will consider it the same as canned cleaner.

Condenser cleaner or coil cleaner is formulated to take grease and oil out on top of the dirt. I use Nu-Calgon , Nu-Brite this is a non acid cleaner that mixed with water cuts the grease and oil and actually removes dirt better because of its foaming action.

In my early days I used to use a surfactant this breaks the water surface tension and cleans the dust out better but you have to mix the surfactant and water (I use a 2 gallon pump sprayer)

Over the years I noticed that some brands coils really collected dust compared to other brands, it turns out it is oil left over from the manufacturing process. Cleaning with a non acid cleaner will provide superior results (even simple green is better than water) I found the Nu-Brite and it works better ,

I proved the cleaners worked better by flushing with simple green, rinsing well then spraying with Nu-Brite as the foam pushed out the remaining dust I was quite surprised how much was left. A quick rinse and for grins I repeated , the foam was coming out clean. This is why I switched to “canned cleaner”  I also noticed after treating with the Nu-brite the coils were not as dirty the next time. I know part of this was cutting the oil and believe simple green did that but it did not push all the debris and residue out like the foaming cleaner.

This provides several reasons that cleaner is better than water, cutting oils, breaking surface tension and a foaming action.


How to make switched Outlet control on Switched Outlet on opposite side of room

You're looking for a product that works just like industry standard, connected smart switches, but is not industry standard, not connected, and uses a proprietary radio frequency.

That wouldn't have much of a market, would it?  From what you're saying, it sounds like you see the market as "it's cheaper", and you hope that incompatibility and low feature set would make it cheaper.  That would certainly make it worth less ... but as far as "cheaper", nah, that's just not how production economics work.


Is white vinegar as effective against black mold as rice or apple vinegar?

The rationale for using vinegar in treating mold is that the acidity disrupts the pH balance that it needs for growth.  Black mold's growth range runs between a pH of 4 and 7.  Different vinegars will have different pH values that run between 2.4 and 3.4, so the vinegar with the lowest pH would presumably be the most effective (although lemon juice or a citric acid solution would be even better).  However - the other consideration is that upsetting the pH balance only slows (albeit pretty dramatically) fungal growth, so I'd actually go with a distilled vinegar personally - cider vinegars contain some solids and unconverted sugars that would potentially provide a food source.

Note that you can go the other way with pH and use a base instead of an acid. A saturated solution of baking soda in water will have a pH of somewhere around 8.1, so it should be effective via the same mechanism.

Finally, you can mix baking soda and vinegar and use that on molds instead, although this would not be using a pH vector - it would be using an oxidizer to disrupt growth.


Why does my roof heater consistently trip the circuit breaker?

The breaker stays on before you switch it on, so the fault is in the heater.

These things can be damaged in a number of ways - squirrels may snack on them, ice may drag them around and cut them on a gutter, old age and sunshine may damage the insulation. I suspect the only reliable cure will be replacement, but you could (after snowmageddon 2017 is over - or what we used to call a nice normal snowstorm) look for any obvious faults (with the breaker off, please) if you are comfortable getting up to the roof, when you can do so safely.


I would not use this for anything other than grounds. It's not insulated. It's also not specified for any other use which means they are not code complaint. You're asking for trouble.

If you don't like wire nuts, try something like these Wago connectors. You just insert the stripped wires and close the lever for positive locking. UL approved and everything.


Effects of changing pipe size on a water pressure regulator?

An active regulator mechanism is going to go for the target pressure no matter what the pipe size is.

The only way pipe size will enter the picture is if you're flowing so much water that the input pressure is below  target pressure and the regulator can't function.  In that case a smaller pipe on the outlet is a win.


Foam board should never be exposed, it should always covered with a fire retardant layer like drywall. So if it is installed correctly, your breaker box would never come in direct contact with the XPS and you don't have a problem.  If it is exposed, then you have a larger problem then just the breaker box making contact with it.


What can I use to hold an iron rod Torchiere lamp section to the pre-wired lower iron rod threaded bolt that won't tighten securely?

I solved this by using a pipe repair clamp from the plumbing department. It is meant to seal pinhole leaks in pipe. It looks like a 3-4" long bracket that clamps to the pipe --not in this case the floor lamp tubing-- and has a rubber, inner liner. Get one in the 1" or greater size. It has two parallel bolts that tighten to clamp it all together.
It's not the prettiest solution but it works. I salvaged a perfectly good floor lamp with bad threads this way.


How do I go about fixing this window that won't pull shut, either temporarily or permanently? So much cold air is leaking in

Look closely at another window. Move the lever to get an idea what should be happening. From the outside, with the window open, look for a removable plate that covers the mechanism. Open a good one to see how it works, then open the bad one to see what is not working. If it can't be fixed easily, remove the whole mechanism and go to local window suppliers. It should be removeable. Good luck!


I am a residential builder, but I would suspect this "air flow" is best explained through psychrometrics and the concept of "natural draft".

The air inside the drain tile system will likely be much cooler than the temperature in the basement.  That temperature difference begets a pressure difference, with the cooler air being more dense than warm air. Nature, forever seeking homeostasis, tries to reconcile the pressure difference between the two areas..... and a draft is formed.

This phenomenon can also be known as the "stack effect" when dealing with building construction, and is one of the causes of thermally inefficient homes.  Improperly sized HVAC systems and things such as ventilation fans in bathrooms and range hoods will also serve to depressurize the house.

From a building inspector's point of view there is absolutely nothing to be worried about.


Does an activated carbon filter in a kitchen hood dry the air?

All the moisture will head right back around if you are (as seems to be the case) talking about one of those useless hood-shaped objects that don't actually vent outside. Carbon does not trap water, and if it did, or you put in something that did, you'd have to change it very, very frequently.

Indeed, the "filtration" provided by such hood-shaped objects is fairly ineffective, period. Burn something on the stove and the smoke will hang around for a long time.


I made a locker in my shop using atlas energy shield foil covered foam panels, it was a little larger 6x6 it worked ok the second time I set it up I doubled the insulation because it was in the high 90' s . I used a 8k BTU unit and changed the thermostat to a cheep refrigerator one. The only problem I found is it takes almost 24 hours to get the temp to 36f. And I really need a fan to pull the hot air away from the corner. I used the panels to make the door also. I collapse my room down when not in use. One change for the next time is a track (trolley) down the center so I can run the animal in as it is tough to hang a whole cow in this small area even using a tractor. A deer would be much easier, I did install a 2 tube fluorescent fixture that I converted to LED. Running a window AC unit colder like this can lead to icing but I have not seen this but do check every morning that I have it running. It is a very old R12 unit with a simple stat (not electronic). Note getting the room down to 36 and putting the animal in there the temp did raise up I hang at 38f. But try to get everything pre cooled with the lights off to get it to temp as quickly as possible.


Can 14/3 wire, with all three conductors hot, be the only cable in a switch box?

It's better (and to code for new construction) to run a 14/4 wire to get a neutral to the switch. In case you want to upgrade it to a smart switch or timer that needs that neutral.

You could leave the 14/2 in place as the unswitched feed and run a new 14/3 in parallel to carry the switched lives. However when you do so you must ensure that the neutral goes back to the through that 14/3 and that the lamp/fan is connected to that neutral and not the one feeding the 14/2.


Oven burner not lighting normally - strange behavior

Could be a cracked ignitor element, letting through enough current to open the gas valve until it gets even hotter, then the crack widens and the gas valve closes.

Could be a faulty valve, and the valve throat is blocked by debris or broken part (as opposed to valve coil is broken).

You can distinguish between those cases by reading the voltage across the valve terminals while the oven tries to start. A steady rise in voltage with no spikes or dropouts means the ignitor is OK.

Sometimes you can detect a cracked ignitor element by direct inspection -- it will have an obvious hot spot, which often looks like the element is burning.

If you can't see the ignitor or measure the voltage, you could try replacing the ignitor. It's the cheapest part, and any replacement is cheaper than calling a licensed repairman.


Electric baseboard heaters stuck on with digital thermostat

It sounds like the relay contacts are fused, this is not uncommon with loads that are constantly switched, the fact that the controlls are saying the relay is not being commanded on but it is heating points to the relay. (It could also be a solid state relay these usually short when they fail, then if there is enough current blow the junction open). The fix is a DIY get a replacement thermostat, turn the circuit breaker off, install the new stat and turn the power back on. I try to get thermostats that have a much larger rating than I need, make sure to add the ampacity of both heaters and get a thermostat that has at minimum this value (I will pay more for a 2x thermostat so it will last longer).


I can't speak to the code issues and/or real-world safety of running a 220V 15A device on a 30A circuit.

However, keep in mind that dryer (and range) receptacles are NOT designed for frequent usage. They are designed to sit untouched for years at a time. Where a regular plug & receptacle might get used a few times a day (and with cell phone chargers and other devices sometimes more often than that), the dryer cord/plug and receptacle may not do well being plugged/unplugged on a regular basis.

In addition, you need to make sure the dryer receptacle is a newer 4-wire receptacle - hot/hot/neutral/ground NEMA 14-30. Older dryers (or rather, older houses never upgraded) use a NEMA 10-30. It is code-compliant to continue using a NEMA 10-30 for a dryer. But you should definitely not use it for a new device. So if you have a NEMA 10-30 then, in addition to any other issues of 15A vs. 30A, etc., you should be upgrading first to a NEMA 14-30 receptacle and change the dryer cord to match and remove the neutral-ground jumper inside the dryer.

Also see: What's a simple solution to have 2 NEMA 14-30 receptacles and switch power between them? for a discussion of using a switch between 2 receptacles.


How do I know what LED bulbs are safe to use in fixtures that are part of construction?

For interior recessed lighting, I don't think I've ever seen a can that wasn't rated for 60W or higher.  You can remove the bulb and the trim and look at the inside of the can for a sticker that lists the bulb wattage.  They normally do have labels.

That said, you have two options to update these.  You can get LED bulbs that are shaped like a standard light bulb if you want to keep your existing black trim.  You can also get LED bulbs that have an integrated trim (almost always a white trim).  To use these, you remove the current bulb and trim and replace with the LED module. They have a light bulb screw connector (Edison base) that screws into the existing housing to power the module.

Both the bulbs and the LED trim modules are made to work inside recessed cans, so the "MAX WATTAGE" label issue shouldn't matter here.

Random example light from SuperBrightLEDs


3 wire outlet.i know white goes with silver and black with copper. Does the order they go matter?

Pigtail
You have 3 sets of wires in cables. One comes from the main panel (or from a previous device in the circuit). The others go to 2 other locations. But they are all effectively the same.
As far as I can tell, the old setup (and what you are trying to do now) includes two wires on a single screw. You can't do that. Or alternatively, one set of wires in backstabs and the others on screws, which is legal but not recommended. Instead, use pigtails:

Connect all 3 blacks together with a wire nut and an additional short length of black wire. Connect the pigtail to the top brass screw.
Connect all 3 whites together with a wire nut and an additional short length of white wire. Connect the pigtail to the top silver screw.

If you don't have any extra wire around to use for pigtails, get some. You may want to get Romex, aka NM, aka cable. In any case, you must make sure the wire is the same size or larger than the existing wire. That means using either 12 AWG (which will work for 15A or 20A circuits) or, if you are sure the circuit is a 15A circuit, 14 AWG.
In addition to avoiding the backstabs, using pigtails will allow this receptacle to be removed (provided you cap the pigtails with wire nuts) and still have the other devices on the circuit function properly.


No.  12 AWG wire is only rated for 20 amperes, and so cannot be protected by a 30 ampere breaker.

The switch also has to be rated 30 amperes. Which should solve your problem, as the 30 amp switch should accept the larger wire.


Is my circuit breaker box grounded? If not, can it be?

It's unlikely that your service panel ("circuit breaker / fuse box") is not grounded.  That could lead to all sorts of weird problems, not to mention that it would be tantamount to malpractice for an inspector and an electrician to walk away from an electric service in that condition.  Furthermore you said that some outlets are grounded.  If they passed inspection then you have grounded service.

(Technical clarification: usually the ground and neutral buses are connected in the main panel, and the service is grounded upstream.  By code such a connection can only be made in the main panel.  In this case the main panel is still "grounded" even though one might pedantically argue that the ground connection is not at the main panel.)

It sounds like you've gotten confused, so here's the simple situation: Most of the outlets inside your house are ungrounded.  They're the ones with only two holes, that can't accept a three-prong plug without an adaptor.  That's it, and it's very common in construction of that vintage or older.

The only way to provide grounded outlets is to run new wires from the service panel and replace the receptacles.  It's usually quite a pain/expense to do that, and apparently it's not required by your local ordinances.  (NB: See @wallyk's comment: You may have 3-conductor wiring to outlet boxes, in which case switching to grounded receptacles is a relatively easy project you can do yourself with the power off.)

One tip: If you do opt to pull new wires so you can ground outlets use 12-gauge wire, not 14-gauge.  That way you can support 20-amp circuits, which I have found comes in handy quite often, and the marginal cost shouldn't be that significant.


Solar? Lots of room for panels, so should I ditch oil?

OK, here's what you DON'T do.  "straight substitution".   Going "oh hey I don't like change so I'll just use all technology exactly as I'm accustomed to, except change this one thing and expect all that to work like magic".
In fact, we see anti-solar people take that attitude on purpose, to show how the new tech can't possibly work.
So you wouldn't just bolt-up solar to "old tech" electric resistance toaster heating.  20 years ago someone said to me "using solar to run a resistance heater isn't even stupid".  Of course solar is much more efficient and cheap today, so maybe... but yeah lol... no.
NOT energy storage
One problem is that the solar doesn't run 24x7.  To "time-shift" energy to when you need it, you need a storage method.
The prevalent storage method in use today is to sell your power to the electric company when the solar is running, then buy power back for your evening needs.   Of course, that depends on the grid being up, doesn't it?
Here's the thing.  At this point, solar is just a "bolt-on".
In fact, really, "selling power to the PoCo from your solar" is really a separate transaction from "buying power from the PoCo for household use". (except they may punish you on rates if you generate more power than you use, since rates like "net metering" are more of a courtesy).
So you don't really need to optimize anything else. If you have inefficient appliances, you don't need to care.
So you can separate it more.  For instance, those panels would work much better in the Mojave Desert due to more solar hours... and electricity is worth more there.  So yeah.  You could actually stick the panels there, sell the power to PG&E, and use the dollars to buy power from Mass Electric.
Energy storage (grid-down capability)
The other storage option is, y'know, actual storage.  The advantage here is it can stay up even with the grid down.  Since most people don't have the facilities for pumped storage, "batteries" are usually it.  That costs about $200 per kilowatt hour, using used Tesla Model S batteries, and that will usually end up costing more than the solar panels.
When trying to make a  house work on batteries, i.e. being grid-down-impervious, the #1 goal is to reduce energy usage. It's much cheaper to invest in efficient appliances than to invest in additional battery and solar needed to sustain inefficient ones.
Now we get out the sharp pencil and start crunching on efficiency tech.
Empowering tech: Heat pump
Where electric really excels for heating is the use of heat pumps.  They take 1 unit of energy to pump 4-5 units.  So they're just stupidly efficient.
You can see where that's a nice multiplier with solar heat.
Now, they do have a problem running in the very cold.  Older ones just shut off, but newer ones at least can "do a defrost cycle" and keep running at all temps (at much reduced efficiency).   You can end up in "coffin corner" as the aviation people call it: as air temperature drops, you need more heat, but you have less available due to lowering efficiency interchanging with -20F air.
So don't.  Interchange with deep ground water that is 50-60F.  This "ground sourced" heat pump is quite efficient and stays that way in the bitterest cold, because it doesn't feel the cold.
Empowering tech: Passive solar
This, unfortunately, requires a house built from the ground up for that.  However a great deal of HVAC load can be removed altogether by designing the house to catch full effect from the winter sun, and have a great deal of thermal "energy storage" built into its bones.  So now the bulk of your heating comes from solar gain, and you only need the heat pump for small adjustments.
There are many more, but that's just a few.


What would cause this bad flame pattern in my boiler?

You don't need to do anything, the burner configuration, while a bit crude, is as it is intended. This kind of burner configuration is notoriously loud. I have a small portable camp stove with this configuration that is named "Pocket Rocket" due to it's loud roar when burning.

The pipe you often see that appears to be missing will always have large air inlet holes to meter the mix air. Without this, the mix air is metered by the size of the lower plate's center hole, which is not very accurate, evidenced by the orange in the flame. You will notice burners with more sophisticated mix air metering will burn pure blue.

The glowing red is not unusual either, it's simply a lot of heat in a small area.


No. The rust is inconsequential and those pipes will likely outlive the gas meter equipment itself. The reason that the rust is at the threads is because the threads are not painted well on purpose; it prevents a good seal when they're putting the gas meter together.

Depending on your gas company's policies, painting the gas meter could be a violation of your customer agreement with them.

Using evaporust, CLR, TSP, or some other cleaning agent on the threads could dissolve the pipe dope and cause a leak. I would leave it alone.


Yes. That's how it's supposed to be.
You have water coming out by the tube which has the on/off mechanism and a small flexible pipe that is expected to send water inside the overflow tube to refill the bowl. Without that, the bowl is not likely to refill much, actually.
I uploaded a video on YouTube to show it in action.


The switch location is not an outlet according to NEC, unless you're installing a switch/ receptacle combo device.

  Outlet. A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.

I doubt an inspector would require the circuit to be AFCI protected, but ultimately that's who'll make the final decision.  To be sure, contact your local electrical inspector.

That being said... AFCI protection is designed to help protect you and your home, so it's not a bad idea to protect the circuit even if it's not required.


My house was built in 1940 and we are gradually rewiring the whole house.  Here are the reasons why:

aluminum wires: most of the original wiring was aluminum which is not as safe as copper.  A particular problem is that there are many devices (outlets, lights, etc) that are rated for copper but connected to aluminum wires.  This is dangerous.
equipment ground: most outlets are not grounded while many electronics require a ground (i.e. three pronged plugs).  New circuits are all grounded.
buried junction boxes: in doing other renovations we discovered junction boxes (boxes in which wires are connected) buried under plaster or otherwise inaccessible.  Maybe 80 years ago that was OK but it is not up to code today.
other safety concerns: We've noticed unprotected wires, NM cables running outside (no conduit), etc.
high draw devices: we are installing air conditioners in each of the rooms and these require dedicated circuits.  I wouldn't have used hair dryer in the bathroom with the old wiring (safety concern).

When determining the order of rewiring, we have two criteria:

address the most urgent safety issues first: having a usable, GFCI outlet in the bathroom, for example.
address the wiring that can be done together: we have our kitchen ceiling down at the moment so we've used the opportunity to run some wiring for second floor outlets.

You might want to have an inspection / evaluation completed and then assess what parts of the system should be rewired and in what order.


The wood will change color eventually no matter what you do. However, you can do two things to slow down that process.

Use a water-based polyurethane finish. All other finishes are either slightly yellow going on, or themselves yellow with age.
Keep the sun off the wood. Sunlight hastens the darkening process.
A dark stain will mask the effect. The darker the better.


The Code Does not stipulate the height of doors in bathrooms. Yes, you are correct that the Code does indicate that ONE  3'-0" wide x 6'-8" high door is required for "habitable spaces". However, only living, sleeping, eating and cooking spaces are defined as "habitable spaces". "Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, storage rooms, utility rooms, halls and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces." (R 202 of Code)

By the way, the Code does stipulate the ceiling height of 7' for, "habitable rooms, hallways, corridors, bathrooms, laundry rooms and portions of basements containing these spaces." Now, there are four exceptions for sloped ceilings, beams that hang down below 7', etc. (R 305.1).


Should I peel off the top layer of vinyl in preparation for tiling?

Unfortunately, you NEED to remove or cover the old vinyl. If you attempt to tile over an unsecure base, you are wasting yout time and money because the tile will not stay down. In your case, if you go over the splitting vinyl, the vinyl will continue to separate and up will come the tiles.  If you go over the paper layer, the mortar/quickset will not stick properly. If you don't want to strip everything, which is a very thankless job, and your subfloor may not be the greatest either,  then screw down a layer of Hardi-backer. Hardy-backer or concrete board is the perfect base for your new tile.  Good Luck


High water pressure issue from hot water heater

If you get a burst of water flow which seems like an over-pressure, it may be time to replace the pressure reducing valve in the water supply line.I would put a pressure gauge on the cold water. Then run the water for a few seconds until the pressure stabilizes in the line. Stop running water and see if the pressure gauge rises as I suspect it will. You can buy a pressure gauge that will screw onto any outlet that will accept a garden hose. Buy at a hardware store like Ace or Home Depot, or Lowes.


what allows some cold water to enter house and some to enter water heater?

I know I am going to be a bit long winded at first before making the point - for a reason so hang on.

Well consider the entire system as a closed system nothing is flowing anywhere at all. When these systems are put together there is also no water at all in the lines so when a valve is opened the water is allowed to flow into the lines or not so much because there is air in those lines. So when the home plumbing is newly turned on at a faucet for example the air is forced out of the lines and you can see this happening. With the water heater the same event must occur - you open a hot water faucet and the water can then flow - previously all of that air pressure kept it back to some extent. Now all of that air is forced out of the water heater and the plumbing lines until you have a system that is filled with  water only.

So now the pressure at any given point is kept in the system by the closed faucet. When you open the facet the water will flow (because it is pressurized by the city) , so that water flows at a certain pressure rating (USA about 80PSi is normal for a residential household).

When you open the hot water faucet you have removed the resistance to the flow of water , because of the pressure of the water and the lack of resistance to it's flow via the hot water tank and the house pipes the water can now flow freely through the path of least resistance - your hot water system.

Now all of that said here is another bit that I know you did not ask for but think can add some real value to your question.

Remember I said when the system was new how all of that air was in the lines , well the same thing will happen when a water heater is replaced - Air will be in it. With a new hot water heater the air must be purged from the system (displaced by water) before you turn the hot water heater on or you will burn up your brand new water heater. This is why it is very important to purge the lines of air after replacing a water heater.


Should I keep attic gable windows open for ventilation?

Attics should remain ventilated, even in winter. Your gable windows should add important circulation to the airflow path. Ideally air is scavenged from all parts of the attic.

Typically there are louvered vents on gables, not windows. You'll need to look into some sort of add-on louver or awning, or replace the windows with something more appropriate.


It there a easy way to handle floor cupping?

Wait it out. If this was your place, you might ponder dealing with the root cause (probably, as noted in the comment above, that they're too tight), but this will return to reasonably flat in the dry season. Delay is not a problem.


installing ecobee SmartThermostat with Voice Control on older home

Based on that picture, you will not need a PEK, but you'll have to check on the furnace/AC as @ThreePhaseEel has pointed out.
You have:

Power (Red) (R)
Heat Call (Black) (W)
Fan (Green) (G)
Cooling (Blue) (Y)
Common (White) (C)

Matching those up to the ecobee labels should be pretty easy.


Yes, it matters a great deal.

Cutting off extra strands will create a big safety hazard, yes. Yes, it will affect the resistance of the connection.  It will cause a voltage drop and localized heating, which may melt the plug.  It could also cause arc faulting, which could ignite grease or flour residues.

But also, the plug has a built-in strain relief.  It is designed to clamp #6 cable, not #2.  It won't be able to clamp #2, which in practice means the strain relief just won't be used, and any pulls on the cable will yank on the connections directly.  That would be bad even if the terminations were proper!

The NFPA and UL don't make these rules to be a pain.  They do it because experience has proven things blow up if they don't.

There are some other problems. Plugs/sockets larger than 60A are very unusual, which means cordage larger than 6 AWG is very unusual.  I have a strong suspicion this is not cordage, but in fact is building wiring. Don't use building wire intended for in-walls or underground, in an application where a flexible cord is normally used. Building wiring can't handle the flexing  and motion of cords.

Trying to use #2 here is wrong.  Anyone with an experienced eye will spot a #2 cable going to a plug.  They could get written up on a walk-through.  If this shows up in an investigation of an injury or fire, you could really be in the soup, because the boss will swear he didn't tell you to do that.

I know you have something "on order", but the correct cable is readily available.  It's simply 6/4 or 6/5 cordage (3-phase+ground with or without neutral; number of wires = number of plug pins) and they cheerfully sell it by the foot.  Most likely there's an electrical supply house within 2 miles who stocks it.

And it's cheaper to boot. Significantly cheaper than #2.

Super easy to do it right, so do it right.


Can a clogged toilet drain cause a tank overflow?

No, a clogged drain won't cause your toilet tank to overflow. Sometimes dirt can get into the fill valve and cause it not to function properly. You could try turning off the water, removing the top  black cover on the fill valve and removing guts and then turning the water back on and flush some water through it ( be sure to put something over the fill valve to prevent water from  shooting out the top) but it's normally much easier to just replace the entire valve.

As for the water level, in your case you can remove the cover on the over flow tube and cut it down so that it's lower than the flush handle hole.

Of course all of this shouldn't be done by you since it's a apartment but that would be the way to resolve the issue.


Can I use pressure-treated 2x2 posts as a base for an aluminum arbor?

Wood that thin doesn't offer much in the way of strength or stiffness. Even if you built your arbor as a completely self-supporting structure and only needed the posts to anchor it, 2x2s would offer relatively little in the way of storm resistance, for example.

A better approach is to design your arbor so that it's self-supporting and rigid, and mount stainless steel brackets to the slab using suitable anchors. Your arbor's legs would attach to the brackets. They won't offer torsional stiffness, but they'll keep the arbor in place.

You could also embed pipes in the slab, into which you'd insert your aluminum legs. These could be PVC. You'd then use shims to secure the legs of your arbor into them. The pipes should be open at the bottom with a drainage basin of sand or washed rock.


fix broken water pipe in garage (burst in winter)

You'll need to open the wall to figure out where it's broken and try to see if it's in multiple spots. Depending on the piping you have and exactly where it's busted, you might be able to fix it yourself with some SharkBite fittings and new pipe. Either way, you'll need to start by opening the wall and locating the break(s).

As for preventing this issue in the future, you'll need a way to drain the pipe. The normal way is to put a shutoff value and drain valve in the warm area (your house) on the pipe that goes to your garage and use that to blow out the pipes with air. In the warm area, you'll want the drain value on the side of the shutoff value that is closer to your garage. Then once your garage line is blown out, you can leave the drain valve open until you're ready to recharge the line. Be sure to blow out each fixture in the garage and put anti-feeze in the drains, toilet trap and some in the toilet tank as well.


Normally on the rear of the sliding portion of the door is a flap that engages at the last moment as the door closes.  That may cover your gap.  If you don't have one, you can add it (search for "sliding door draft stopper").

But looks like you could cut a block of wood to fit the gap (or, fancy, 3D print it).  The strip insulation is available at most hardware stores.

But really, this looks like a manufacturing defect, not even an install defect.


I would get rid of it now, because they'll only be harder to get rid of when they're larger and more aggressive. You won't want to use any poisons, obviously, because then you'd be hurting your good bugs.

You can do a couple of things. One is to just take a trash bag and put it over the whole thing and pull it tight. Maybe even tape the top shut. They'll eventually die.

If you want to be more human or get rid of them more quickly in general, do the same thing, but put them in your freezer for a day. Then you can safely clean out the nest.

If you're not worried about being stung, just knock the nest out that they're building. They may come back and even start to rebuild, but if you do it again, they'll move on.

If you want to go the chemical route, just don't spray the bug hotel. Spray them while they're in the air.


Adding a vanity light to a switched knob and tube ceiling light

I rechecked all of the wire nuts and found a wire slipped out of a pigtail. I now can see the light!


Trying to replace my old kitchen gas stove, how to find a replacement?

MAybe you can try with a marine one like one. Or maybe some vintage/antique seller like this one could have one, try asking.

However, I believe that if you want to modernize your kitchen, you'll need a new shape. All that you will find in this shape will likely be vintage.

Alternatively, what would happen if you just put a square/rectangle one on top of the hole?

Hole:

New square fitting:

Added on top:

Finally add some (fake) marble to hide the space below the corners:


Broken ground prong on a three-prong extension cord

The ground prong on an electric cord is there to protect you in case something goes wrong with the tool or appliance while you are handling or touching it. You will not die immediately without the ground prong, but you will no longer be protected from shock, burns, or electrocution by a faulty device.

There are several things that can happen to energize the casing of an electric device. The most likely is that the insulation on the hot wire could fail, causing the hot to touch the casing. This will cause the circuit breaker to pop open and protect you -- but only if the device is properly fault grounded. The ground prong is an essential part of this fault grounding.

I once heard my neighbor's kid complaining about the rules imposed by his mother. His exact words were "She's so dumb. I played in the street hundred of times and I never got hit by no bus." Operating without the ground prong is playing in the street and hoping there's no bus.


Electric water heater thermostat keeps tripping and needing reset

Water heaters have replaceable parts in them:

The anti-corrosion anode rods (what a boater calls a "zinc")
The heating elements proper
The dip tube which is an internal baffle which brings the cold water down to the bottom of the tank

The dip tube needs further explaining. In stagnant water, hot water will rise to the top.  However if it were actively stirred, the temperature of the water quickly becomes the average of all the water in the tank.  As you use hot water, cold water comes in. If stirring were happening, the heater's water would continuously decline in temperature as you used it.  That would be no good!

So the hot water tank is optimized to work more like a toothpaste tube - the entering cold water pushes the hot water upward -- so it doesn't stir or mix, but the hot water moves up like a piston until it is used up.

The dip tube's job is to carry cold water to the bottom of the tank, so it can do the piston thing. Otherwise, cold water would just "take the shortcut" from the cold inlet to the hot outlet just 9" away.

Your dip tube is broken, hence the flashes of hot and cold.  Cold water is shortcutting.  Fair chance it broke because it corroded off. As such, it's worth looking at the anode, whose one job is to corrode first.  If it's used up, corrosion spreads to other components; good heater design calls for it to be easily replaced components.

The heating elements can also be swapped, and that is likely to take care of the tripping. You know the tripping is a safety device.  It's like a circuit breaker; when a breaker trips, the breaker isn't bad, the circuit is being overloaded.


How to get rid of pigeons under an air conditioner outdoor unit, on the high floor of an apartment?

If they have a nest with eggs or chicks, you will pretty much need to remove the nest to get rid of them because they will be very persistent in protecting the nest.  If you don't care about being humane, you could make an "L" shaped tool to reach under the unit and knock the nest out.  Use a mirror on a long pole to see what you're doing.

If they are just congregating under the unit, you can use repellent foil.  It's a Mylar ribbon imprinted with an irridescent holographic pattern.  You can find it at places like Amazon or big hardware chains.  Here's an example:

The patterns vary.  Apparently, birds can't focus on the pattern and it scares them away from landing.  Just hanging it in the vicinity keeps birds away:

In the picture above, there is some hung vertically and some horizontally to protect different areas.  In the picture below, they just have some ribbons of it that flap in the wind:

For your problem under the unit, you would make a big loop of it, drop the loop under the unit from the window (assuming it's under a window), and fasten the ends in a reachable spot.  If there is nothing good to fasten them to, and you can reach the top of the unit, staple the ends to a board that sits on top of the unit.  You might want several loops of different lengths if there's a big area underneath.  If you use a board, secure the board with adhesive, or double-sided mounting tape, so wind doesn't blow it off and cause damage or injury below.


How to install door security guard on metal door jamb?

Before I start - this is a simple task but it's not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

I would mount this with flat head machine screws.  I would take that lock to the hardware store and see what size fits right in the countersinks (the tapered part).  It might be say a size 8 machine screw.  Most of are threaded with so that there are 32 threads per inch (the thread pitch).

You'll need to drill a hole the exact right size for the screw, and cut or form or "tap" matching threads in the hole so the threads bite.  The easy way to do this is buy a combination drill bit and tap for the size screw you selected, for example this 8-32 drill-tap:

You can probably see how this works, you drill the hole through the metal first, then you keep going and tap the threads with the same bit.

I would advise buying two of these drill-taps because they break easily, and practice on some thin scrap metal before you try it on your door frame.

The fine points of drilling and tapping are way beyond this answer but I'll say you want to drill slow with firm pressure, then tap with a little less pressure and the minimum torque to cut the threads.

It's always good to lubricate the drill bit when drilling metal but it's especially important with a tap.  There is special tapping lubricant made just for this job but a dab of petroleum jelly on the bit will work fine.

When you put the hardware on the door frame to mark the holes, be sure to hold it steady and make sure it's in the right spot.  It's also important to make a small dimple in the metal so the tip of the drill bit stays in the exact right spot.  The usual tool for this is a center punch but a large nail will work in a pinch.  Just place the point carefully and rap it with a hammer.  Be as precise as possible!

Again, this can be very quick and easy if all goes well, but it's very possible it won't.  If the tap breaks off in the hole on the door, you're going to have a headache.

I'd also mount the bracket on the metal first, THEN mount the part that goes on the door.  I say this because if anything goes wrong mounting it on the door, you may have to move it up or down a bit.


Can I use the same junction box for two appliances?

Get a mm and check the voltage between the wires (phases).

Ignore the green/yellow for this.

If the black is neutral (likely) then the voltage between any of the other 3 and the neutral should be around 380V.

Between any 2 phases (brown, gray, blue) should give you 230V.

So, as the load on phases should be balanced, I suggest you get a competent electrician to check and connect this for you. That way (s)he can check which appliances are on which phase.

I had an issue with my hob.. puled the oven out to clean it and a wire popped out for the hob. Not thinking I put it back (blue to blue)... Massive bang and off to buy another hob :) happy days... Made sure of the voltages before connecting the new one...


How can I safely get power strip to desk in center of room?

Appliance and extension cords are called cordage.
Use the right stuff
The issue with cordage as a substitute for permanent wiring of the structure is not a “don’t do it” issue: it’s a “use the right stuff” issue.
“The right stuff” is appropriate wires designed for permanent use in structures, including appropriate physical protection.  For instance instead of stapling cordage to a wall, you should use surface conduit with THHN wires inside.
Of course, that requires a transition from the THHN to the cordage at some point.  That happens at a junction box, e.g. with a receptacle in it; the easiest way to transition from hardwiring to cordage.
Consider a pendant for center-of-room power
A pendant is a piece of special cordage with high quality strain relief on both ends (think the Chinese finger puzzle webbing) that drops straight down from a box on the ceiling down to a junction box suspended in midair by the cordage.  You then plug into that recep.
Probably best to use a fan-rated ceiling box.  This can be a surface-mount box (you’ll need to find the studs) which in turn can be supplied via surface conduit such as Legrand Wiremold.
The suspended box would probably be a metal box rated for a fan, since they are tough and built to endure tugs on the pendant.
If you want to be very fancy, you can have the pendant lock into a locking connector like a NEMA L5-15.
That PC power supply is a terror
That “1200 watt” PC power supply is a gigantic beast made for gaming.  The “1200 watt” figure is the actually useful DC output of the supply; it is NOT the AC mains input — that is affected first by the efficiency of the unit and by the power factor.
   X (actual power drawn) x efficiency% x PF% = useful power out.

The “850 watt” power supplies actually draw 10 amps. So I could see a 1200 watt supply drawing 16A or 17A.
I would revisit the necessity of such an ostentatiously large power supply.


bathroom aerator doesn't want to screw tightly into place

Take a rag soaked in lemon juice, vinegar or CLR and shove it up into the faucet against the internal threads for a few hours. Keep re-soaking the rag. Then brush the threads with a toothbrush and reinstall the aerator. Remember to use the washer that came with the aerator. Oh, don't use the toothbrush on your teeth...


breakers all putting out power but outlet not working

Are there any other receptacles or lights with no power? Presumably there are other receptacles on this same circuit.

You say no power at the incoming line to this receptacle--presumably meaning no hot. So a connection of a hot upstream has gone bad. Do you have spring "backstab" connections to the receptacles? If so, change them to the side screw. (If you have backwire connections secured by the screw that is fine.)

In any case, check each receptacle in the circuit from the non-working one going back towards the panel. Use a plug-in circuit tester or a multimeter. It will tell whether there is no hot or no neural at each receptacle.


Miscalculated Subway tile spacing What should I do?

Pity the tiles are laid: I'd have run full tiles down from the ceiling, and got rid of the cuts you put to line up with the top of the window architrave. You could have packed out the top of the architrave almost invisibly with timber and paint.
As it is, fit a small timber trim/coving, call it what you will and paint it as if it's part of the ceiling. Only you will notice it.


Can I use OSB or plywood instead of 1x6 boards to hang metal panels?

Yes, OSB or plywood would be a suitable substructure. It will distribute the load and create a stable mounting surface for your assembly. OSB is similarly strong to plywood and can be  more uniform, depending on the grade of plywood. Its drawback is its susceptibility to swelling and flaking due to repeated moisture exposure.

Individual boards are less solid as a system and you may end up with concentrated loads. That said, if they're mounted solidly, they could carry substantial weight as well.

The key is that the anchors you use in the substructure need to be adequate to grab sufficiently in only 1/2" of material. Larger diameter screws substantially increase pullout strength.


It basically depends on how long the steps have been there for one. You can stain fresh new pressure treated wood, but if its still wet, it doesn't take well. If it has been seasoned and is dry, as it looks like it is, you can stain it.

They make stain, for pressure treated wood even, which helps prolong it. Between that and keeping water from pooling on it, it should last quite a while.


How does a copper water pipe disintegrate?

That is corrosion due to flux residue from the soldered joints not being wiped from the outside or flushed from the inside.
There are several grades of flux and some are more aggressive than others - I use a very "soft" one for all tasks but make sure to clean both the pipe and the fitting, reserving the aggressive one for the very few joints that don't take.
Timeline is also about right - I had one go on me a few years ago. it weeped into a concrete floor for about 6 months until the evidence became visible.
Based on the evidence, there may be other joints being affected - check the ones that are visible. Note that some may have been cleaned on the outside as part of normal house cleaning, so find some under floor or behind cupboards etc to check.


If I were you, I'd prime them first. Understand that paint + primer doesn't actually mean you're doing 2 coats of work. They do sell some (the top end expensive stuff) that says it works in one coat, but the dirty little secret of paint is you can generally use one coat as a primer for the next. My bet is you purchased the base grade, which has less of the primer in it than the mid and top tiers.

I would probably go with an oil-base primer here just to be safe. Wallpaper glue can sometimes cause bonding issues with your paint. All oil-base primers should help prevent that issue.


With antennas there are a lot of check boxes to tick. First it has to be installed and adjusted properly. Most TV antennas are directional and need to be pointed toward the TV station. If they are not pointed in the correct direction the signal will degrade.

Next the connection from the antenna to the house is important. The two common methods are ladder line or coaxial cable (75ohm). Ladder line was all the rage back in the day. Ladder line is a flat cable, about a 1/2 in across, with the two conductors on the outside. Ladder line is very prone to interference. If your house has ladder line then an upgrade to coaxial is needed. If the house already has coaxial cable, then how old is it? Old cable can degrade the signal.

Once inside the house, how long is the run to the TV? The longer the run the more signal you will lose. Are there any splitters? Splitters degrade the signal, particularly if nothing is connected to the second output (this is called unterminated). Replace any splitters with unions, or even better run a new uninterrupted cable.

Interference can be an issue. Does the antenna cable run next to anything in the house like a sump pump or a furnace. It's possible that when something kicks on it is interfering with the signal. Does any event coincide with the lower signal? Re route the cable away from any such device.

If everything else fails an amplifier could do the trick. When choosing an amplifier make sure it is rated for the frequencies that you are interested in you area. An amplifier right next to the antenna is best but difficult to install because it necessitates running power wires up to the roof. An amplifier in the house right where the wire comes in is the next best option.

This list of stuff is just scratching the surface but enough to get you started.


Can Romex (NM-B) cable be run through conduit?

Yes, NM cable can be in conduit. In fact. NEC calls for it to be in conduit, when protection from physical damage is required.

  National Electrical Code 2011

  ARTICLE 334 Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC, and NMS

  II. Installation

  334.15 Exposed Work. In exposed work, except as provided in 300.11(A), cable shall be installed as specified in 334.15(A) through (C).

  (B) Protection from Physical Damage. Cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary by rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, electrical metallic tubing, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, Type RTRC marked with the suffix -XW, or other approved means. Where passing through a floor, the cable shall be enclosed in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, electrical metallic tubing, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, Type RTRC marked with the suffix -XW, or other approved means extending at least 150 mm (6 in.) above the floor. [ROP 7-94] Type NMC cable installed in shallow chases or grooves in masonry, concrete, or adobe shall be protected in accordance with the requirements in 300.4(F) and covered with plaster, adobe, or similar finish.

There's also some notes in Chapter 9, dealing with how to figure for cables when calculating conduit fill.

  Chapter 9 Tables

  Notes to Tables

  (5) For conductors not included in Chapter 9, such as
  multiconductor cables and optical fiber cables, the actual
  dimensions shall be used.

  (9) A multiconductor cable, optical fiber cable or flexible cord of two or more
  conductors shall be treated as a single conductor for
  calculating percentage conduit fill area. For cables that
  have elliptical cross sections, the cross-sectional area
  calculation shall be based on using the major diameter
  of the ellipse as a circle diameter.

However, it depends on where the conduit is.  If the conduit is underground (or any other damp or wet location), then NM cable is not allowed.

  National Electrical Code 2011

  ARTICLE 300 Wiring Methods

  I. General Requirements

  300.5 Underground Installations.
  (B) Wet Locations. The interior of enclosures or raceways installed underground shall be considered to be a wet location. Insulated conductors and cables installed in these enclosures or raceways in underground installations shall be listed for use in wet locations and shall comply with 310.10(C). Any connections or splices in an underground installation shall be approved for wet locations.

  300.9 Raceways in Wet Locations Above Grade. Where raceways are installed in wet locations above grade, the interior of these raceways shall be considered to be a wet location. Insulated conductors and cables installed in raceways in wet locations above grade shall comply with 310.10(C).

  ARTICLE 334 Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC, and NMS

  II. Installation

  334.12 Uses Not Permitted.
  (B) Types NM and NMS. Types NM and NMS cables shall not be used under the following conditions or in the following locations:

  (4) In wet or damp locations


Can a single cable type do the following

You don't want cable at all here, but individual wires instead

Pulling cable down a conduit is a waste of time/effort (as it's a pain in the rear to pull by all accounts I have heard) and fill space (as the cable's treated as round instead of oval/flat for conduit fill purposes).

Instead, what you want to be using are individual conductors -- the 200A-sized run can be made using 3 4/0 Al XHHW-2 wires for the phases and neutral -- this consumes much less fill than a 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 SER cable (529mm2 for the individual wires vs 1135mm2 for the cable) and is cheaper than the cable too, as you can use the EMT as an equipment grounding conductor here.  Given that you can remark wires 4AWG and larger freely to neutrals with a wrap of white electrical tape at the terminals as per NEC 200.6(B), a single 250' spool of 4/0 Al XHHW-2 will get the job done here.

As to that Al to Cu splice...

The Al to Cu splice, by the way, should be made up using 2-port, Al9Cu rated mechanical splice connectors ("Polaris", "Unitap", or equivalent).  These provide a reliable and rugged connection when torqued to specification with a torque wrench, which is a requirement in the NEC nowadays (as per 110.14(D)) in addition to being good installation practice anyway, and are simple to install (compared to split bolts).  You'll also want to use an inch-pound torque wrench on the breaker and panel lugs as well.


Drafty gap found in drywall corner during bathroom remodel

Assuming you have little to no batt insulation at that corner (and there's nothing snug that would hold-up a strip of the same if stuffed into the crack with a putty knife):

Get a 4"-8" wide strip of metal screen (as used in a screen door) and fold it in half.  Insert it into the crack.  Tape it open, to the left and right sides of the gap, respectively, thus creating something onto which an insulating spray foam will attach without falling to the floor of the stud bay. Spray foam using the straw-like attachment, let cure, and trim any protruding excess and in such a way that one forms a proper inside corner for the drywall tape. Note: this stuff expands greatly so go easy with it.

Then, using self-adhesive fiberglass drywall mesh, repair as one would normally do for a small hole.


Countertops are custom cut for the space and the sink.  The space on the left where you currently have a drain pan will either be cut out (no countertop underneath) or ruined by glue and mismatching discoloration.
You will need a new countertop.  Go to a kitchen design store, which could be a hardware superstore with a kitchen department.   Choose a countertop and a sink.  They'll come measure your kitchen, cut the counter to fit the space and cut the opening for your chosen sink.  They will install it too, if you want.


Stripped hole in furnace fan housing assembly

I would solder a nut with the matching thread to the thin piece of metal, more than sufficient to hold the nut in place.


Is it okay to flush water heater onto the drip pan with drain hole?

The drip pan's drain tube may not be large enough to handle the flow if you drain the entire water heater through it, leading to an overflow of the drip pan. I would be safe and use a hose to connect the outlet to the drain.


Adding a ceiling fan to circuit of light fixtures

You can do this because the standard fans draw only ~< 1 A of current. This is an easy way to install a fan but of course the lights must be on for the fan to be powered.

You could switch the fan off and change speeds with a remote controller. Receiver in the fan shroud and battery powered remote controller.

If you don't want to bother with a remote, you could control the fan with pull chain switch. I have had some trouble with the remote that came with the new Hunter fans. Or the problem may be with the fan itself. It won't run on high.


Why does my first floor thermostat also make my third floor baseboards turn on?

There's a chance that a backflow-preventer valve is stuck open, allowing hot water from Zone-One piping to flow "backwards" into Zone-3 piping.  See if you can find these valves- they likely are close to your furnace. They are probably green, with a directional arrow printed into the metal housing (and have only one inlet and one outlet).
Also,  test by "feel" : when the circulator pump for Zone-1 comes on, does the circulator for Zone 3 turn on? .   Or, simply close that valve (knob just above the circulator) for Zone3 and see if that stops the warming. If so, it's almost certainly a jammed backflow preventer.
I have successfully "tapped and tweaked" backflow preventers to unstick them.  All that's inside one is a weighted plunger which, under reverse pressure, drops down and seals the valve opening (under positive pressure, it slides upwards to let water flow in the desire direction).


Need help wiring a new double pole line voltage thermostat

OK, quick terminology issue: Single-pole and double-pole.  The poles are channels, which could have any purpose.  A single-pole switches one channel; a double-pole switches two.  (ignore the "st").  (source)

For a thermostat, one pole is sufficient to turn the heaters on and off.  For the other pole, you'd simply bind the wires together - and I think that's what's been done with the white wires.

You say this powers 2 heaters, and that's the dead giveaway.  The power supply would be one group of wires, and the outputs would be two groups.  Now look at what's going on with that switch: you have one wire spliced into the red thermostat wire (that must be the power supply) and two wires spliced into the black wires (those must be the heaters).

Follow the one wire and it goes to the Romex on the right.  That Romex goes to the power source, clearly, and its wires should be considered "LINE" (always-on).  Which means the white wire in that bundle is the other pole.

The other Romex cables go to the heaters, and they are "LOAD" (switched).

This wire is /2 Romex since there's no red wire. (ground is not counted, so /2 means black and white).  The yellow sheath suggests 12/ since some manufacturers recently adopted that as a color code.  The markings on the sheath say for sure.

Are the white wires hot (240V) or neutral (120V)?   We can't tell.  It would be wired the same either way.  240V heaters don't need neutral, so they use 12/2 or 10/2 wire, and re-designate and supposedly, re-mark the white as another "hot".  Somebody went to a lot of trouble to put red tape on the Romex cables... shrug.  In the old days, marking wasn't required if the use was obvious.

So we must go down to the breaker panel.  Looking at the layout, it should be obvious that there's a unit of "space".  If the breaker takes 2 spaces, it is a 240V circuit. There won't be many of those.

Simply, turn off one at a time and see what it knocks out. Generally there is one thing on each 240V circuit (well, oven and stove may share a circuit).  This is a good time to mark those breakers once you figure what they control. Not least it helps you eliminate; heaters are very annoying to test because they take a long time to make noticeable heat.

If it's a 240V breaker, obviously, these are 240V heaters.

Although the smart thermostat may not care if it's 120V or 240V.  It needs to power itself, but it may be inherently multi-voltage.  Many things are nowadays.

It goes without saying that you have to find the breaker in order to change the thermostat.  If you don't realize that, you should not be doing electrical work.


Can i run an AC/DC adapter cable behind a wall?

Since your 22v would behind the wall yes this part could be run inside the wall and back out if the wire is listed.
I would get a recessed receptacle and mount the brick behind the monitor , or even a flush monitor and put the brick on the wall behind the monitor.
The only question would be is the wire rated for use inside the wall yes the cable would have to be listed for this, even speaker wire has to be listed to run it inside the walls I have been called several times on new DIY builds where a inspector failed a job because the large clear coated speaker wire was pulled for use in the walls.
There are plastic wire chases that stick to walls(wire mold being 1 brand) These have a snap on cover this would be another choice to consider that would be better than routing the cable in the wall.


Traditionally, those were made of lead. They didn't so much expand as squish outward against the concrete, engaging with it on a micro level.

These newer pot metal ones can be a pain. They aren't really intended to expand much either, but because they're so hard it's difficult to drive the screw in. You just have to get rowdy with your wrench. It may also help to run the drill bit in and out a few times to make sure you have a fully round hole with no debris left inside.

If you find that you're breaking screws off you may want to try another brand or type of anchor.