How can I measure lengths greater than 50' to a precision of less than 1/16"?

The laser measuring devices are in that range.  A 100' metal tape has temperature coefficient expansion issues.

There are surveyors metal (and fiberglass) tapes on reels.


Check out "togglers".  They work extremely well.  Two of them should be more than enough for a 20" TV.  Along the togglers you'll need a 1/2" drill bit.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php


Connected Garage door opener with a wall console controlling two doors

Those Chamberlain door openers are nice. There's a Chamberlain/Liftmaster 2-door wall control for the inside of your garage. I'm not aware of a 2-door keypad for the outside though.


Wiring a Heater, Vent Fan, Light for bathroom

Hard to tell from the pictures what you currently have. But here is (roughly) what you need.
Updating based on newly posted installation diagram
Assumptions

Installing 3 switches in one box Note: I do not know much about how much you can stuff in a box. There are some experts here who can speak to that - when I did this in my own house, my electrician dealt with those details (and many more). I got something like this Decora 15 Amp 3-Rocker Switch which can fit in a single gang box, but be warned that a single gang box is likely not big enough for all these wires (code or practically speaking).
Everything on one circuit - i.e., a single 15A or 20A circuit as appropriate based on the requirements of the fan/light/heater - primarily the heater is the determining factor

In the switch box:

Cable 1: From the main panel: Black (hot), white (neutral), ground. Hot goes to all three switches. Neutral will connect to neutral from all three devices.
Cables 2 & 3: To the devices: Typically 2 cables. One black/white/ground (this is the /2 - 2 wires + ground), one black/red/white/ground (this is the /3 - 3 wires + ground). (Technically this could be done with one bigger cable or with 3 black/white/ground cables or with a bunch of individual wires in conduit, but it looks like you have the typical 2 cables already, so that's good).
Connect all the neutral (white) wires together with a wire nut.
If your switches have three pairs of screws then connect three short black wires (same size, easiest to just strip a section of Romex and chop off 3 pieces of black wire) together with the black wire from the panel with a wire nut and connect each to one screw. If your switch has a common hot then you connect the hot from the panel directly to it.
Connect each colored wire from the cables 2 & 3 to a switch. Two switches get black, one gets red - these are all switched hots.
All grounds are connected together.

No white wires to the switch unless it is a smart switch that uses neutral
If your switch has backstab connections and screws always use the screws.
At the fan:

Connect the neutrals for the light & fan (whites that are paired with the blue & black wires) to the white in the /3 cable.
Connect the neutral for the heat (white that is paired with the red wire) to the white in the /2 cable.
Connect the black (fan) wire to the black wire in the /3 cable.
Connect the blue (light) wire to the red wire in the /3 cable.
Connect the red (heat) wire to the black wire in the /2 cable.
Connect all grounds together (as always)

Color-coding: Because the heat uses a lot more power than the light & fan, it gets the /2 cable. Harper recommends (and it is a good idea) marking both ends of the /2 black --> red and both ends of the /3 red --> blue. That will make all the wire colors match, which will help with any future troubleshooting. However, you must make sure that the whites go to the correct (/2 for heat, /3 for fan & light) whites - neutrals & hots must be matched together.
That should leave you with nothing extra hanging out. And you should have each switch operating a separate function in the fan/light/heater.
You also need to vent the fan properly. I had my electrician do that too (not a fun job in my attic). You definitely do NOT want the fan venting into the open area of your attic. If you had another fan before then you may be able to reuse the ductwork and the hole in the roof. If not, that may be the hardest part of the job.


How to tile over shower wall surround flange?

You just want a stable platform for your tile.  It depends on the size of the tile.. If you are cantilevering 10-15% of a larger tile, just fill the thinner areas with more mud and put backer where it will fit.

It looks like you needed some blocking behind the green board (where the rear curve comes in) to be able to fill in.  Perhaps some fiberglass mesh tape would let you land some thinset to bridge the gap.


Preventing a sink strainer from leaking?

Channellocks are great for replacing sink strainer drains. I've never had a sink drain where I needed something like a basin wrench because they are generally easily accessible.

As for the leak:

1)Make sure you don't have a faulty basket strainer. Make sure there are no cracks or other defects in it. You said it looks like condensation underneth so I'm guess that means water is actually on the outside of the plumbing and it's not just leaking past the strainer plug and into the drain.

2) Is it leaking from the sink drain or from one of the drain connections below? Be sure to check the drain connections closely to make sure it's not leaking from them. If you've used putty on top and a rubber gasket and paper gasket on the bottom (make sure the rubber gasket goes directly against the sink and the paper gasket between that and the nut), the likelyhood of it leaking is very slim. You can overtighten the nut (and other plumbing parts that have gaskets) and actually cause leaking issues so be sure not to go crazy on it. Tightness is realitive but it should be tight enough that once you're done you can't twist it by hand and it doesn't move when you tighten the drain pipe back on.

3) Be sure to check for any chips and/or cracks that water might be able to seep into and leak out. If there are chips and/or cracks, you can try repairing them with some special epoxy or using silicone instead of putty. Silicone will be much more of a pain to remove later but it does come off with some persuasion. If using expoxy, be sure to let it fully cure before putting the strainer back on.


The green wire coming out of the new fixture, should be connected to the bare copper wire from the ceiling.  There should also be a pigtail from that connection, that connects to the green grounding screw on the strap (metal bit attached to the box).

Then it should be black to black, and white to white. For future reference, you should take photos, draw a diagram, or simply list/label all the wires when you disconnect them from fixtures before you remove them. That way you'll know how it was wired, and can wire it back up the same way.


basement framing with metal Studs Best way to fasten them to the floor

The U-shaped metal track that goes along the concrete floor to hold the studs is typically fastened to the floor with the short concrete nails put in place with the ramset method. The vertical metal studs are then put in place and they are attached to the up turned sides of the metal track using sheet metal screws. The screws most often used are ones that self pierce the metal and thread themselves in to secure the studs.

Note that the metal track and the metal studs are rather thin and offer little or no resistance to the placement of the ramset concrete nails.


IKEA Loviken Faucet disassembly assistance requested

When the interior phillips is loosened,

You should remove it, not just loosen it.

Then the handle should lift off vertically.

This should allow you to remove the cover/washer part

Then you should be able to see the hexagonal top of the valve assembly
and remove it with the corresponding sized spanner wrench (or adjustable nut-rounder)

  My kitchen faucet drips a bit

I'd investigate if the valve unit can be tightened and whether everything is seating correctly / whether there is trapped debris or damage. There might be a rubber/plastic washer you can replace.

  I'm also unsure if part 118211 is easily replaced here in the US

It is easily replaced in the US, it might not be easily obtained in the US :-)

I'd

Ask IKEA about obtaining replacement part 118211.
Take part 118211 to the local hardware store / DIY-shed and show it to the oldest person there.
Send money to Sweden.


Split a single branch circuit into two runs?

Yes, that's fine, you can "tee" circuits.   I just did one that looks like a tree... starting with a 3-way split right in the service panel.  And two branches themselves have splits downstream.

Now let's talk about splicing.  USA receptacles provide two screws or backstabs per side.  That has several uses, but the most common use is an easy way to do a 3-way splice: one for the power source, one for the downstream feed to the next outlet, and of course the receptacle itself.  Here's the thing: people get hung up on this, and forget this is only one of several ways to do a splice.  You can use any listed method.

So with both screws full, how do you add a third wire?

you cannot use both screws and backstabs.   You must use one system or the other only, and don't use backstabs anyway becuase they fail a lot.
You can use a short pigtail to come off one screw, and then any of a variety of splices to join the pigtail and two of the wires.  One remains on the other screw (or not; you can just join all the wires at the splice, I do that when the receptacle is in a really awkward location.)
you can use special receptacles called screw-and-clamp which can accommodate four wires (plus the receptacle itself obviously).  You have to hunt these down, but they cost about $3 - not unbearable.

What kind of splices would you use? Any listed splice.  Some examples are wire nuts -- Alumiconns (they work fine on all copper wire) --  Euro type terminal blocks -- push-in (unreliable) -- snap-down splice connectors.  I use wire nuts myself.


Is it acceptable to frame and drywall just one exterior wall in a basement?

I would suggest that you plan out the entire basement before you frame the one wall. Figure out what you would like the entire space to become (eventually) and make sure that the one wall that you are framing will fit in with those plans, or at least is flexible with future plans. It's not fun down the road having to rip down sections of a new wall to accommodate new plans, ESPECIALLY if you were the one to frame the first wall.

While you are at it, make sure to run all the cables and future proofing items that you would want in the future in this one wall, or provide an easy way to have them installed. Install conduit (if possible) for power and another for telecommunications (Cat5e/Cat6, Telephone, etc). If you don't want to run conduit, at least pre-drill the holes, and leave a pull string in the holes to help with fishing wires. I wish I thought of this before finishing portions of our basement.


Are the sink and washer vented correctly?

Are you adding the piece that loops around your sink?  It's redundant.

You need a P-trap in your washer line to prevent gases from backing up into your washroom

Otherwise, what you have drawn out is fine.  No need for a clean-out.


Should I apply caulk before or after washing with TSP?

Complete all required sanding, then clean everything including your planned TSP wash of the walls. Then caulk, prime (if necessary), and paint.


Your #6 wire is good to 60A.  (Actually it's good to 55A, but they don't make 55A breakers, so you get to round up to the next available size).

As such, there is nothing wrong with fitting a 60A supply breaker inside your main panel.

The ruling question is whether your spa subpanel's internal buses are able to handle 60A.  Did they put a 50A breaker there to protect a spa they never bought? Or is it there to protect the subpanel itself?  Model numbers would help us research this.

Separately, if it is not attached to the house, it will need a main disconnect switch or shutoff.  Usually the cheapest way to get a shutoff is to use a sub-panel with a main breaker (just using the breaker as a switch, not a breaker).

So what's up with people telling you that you need to bump to #4 copper? (which you would never do by the way, you'd use #2 aluminum if you needed that, which you don't). They are probably up-in-arms about that because of the long distance, and voltage drop which results.

However, voltage drop is the victim of an "old wives' tale", cheerfully amplified by the sales departments at wire manufacturers.  The wrong info is to calculate voltage drop on breaker trip current, and that 3% is condemning.  Wrong and wrong.

Actually, calculate voltage drop on what the load actually is (if you are at breaker trip current, you have bigger problems).  And 3% is a rosy ideal; depending on application, 6%, 8% (Code starts objecting at 8%) or much more are perfectly acceptable.  And this is one of those applications where you have a lot of slack.

So you don't even need to think about voltage drop for this spa below 250 feet of run.  (That's not universal. On some circuits it's a concern in as little as 100'). Even above 250', I'm only saying find a piece of paper to run some numbers.


Removing bathroom tile from cement backerboard

If the backer board is attached with screws, the easiest solution would be to find them, remove them and take the floor out in chunks. However, that's not gonna happen since there isn't a good way to find the screws and you'd have to chip up the tile to get at them.

I removed almost 600 sqft with a rotary hammer from Harbor Freight. I bought the mid-range sds model. I don't usually buy power tools form HF, but this is one that you will probably destroy during the process, so buy accordingly. I went through two of them (replaced under warranty) to finish the job.

Regarding the cement board. You won't know for sure that you have to replace it until you get the tile off and it cleaned up. depending on how much you beat it up and how much grout and mortar is left, it may be easier to replace it. You may need to pull it to level the floor anyway, you just don't have enough information to make that decision yet. Good Luck! Oh and get good knee pads, they are a life saver when chipping up tile.


Expanding a window downwards in a brick face

Removing bricks is easy.  It's putting them back up, properly, that takes some skill & experience to do right.  It's been my experience that anytime you have someone do brickwork for you it gets expensive.
But in your case, if it were me, I would use a circular saw with a concrete cutting blade on it and just cut the bricks below the window vertically along the edge of the new opening, like this:

Then just chisel out/break the bricks off along mortar joint and remove as many rows pf bricks as needed.
Frame in for the new window with appropriate attention to weather proofing.  It looks like that might be a load bearing wall, so there's probably a header above that window that needs to be handled properly.  This post was mainly addressing the brick removal question.  There are a fair number of videos out there that walk you through the details of replacing a window.


Shower head on exterior wall - Insulation R-30 Rock Wool

I don’t know why you would need rock wool any r30 should work. As far as adding length and bends to the shower it should not matter. All shower heads have flow restriction built in so your limiting factor is the head itself


Hollow core doors are actually not totally hollow, they typically have cardboard glued inside which just serves to stop the panels from warping.

Sound moves through both air and structure.

Your main concern should be air - are the doors totally sealed, especially the gap at the bottom? The door should shut tight, and ideally be air-tight.

You should also consider vents joining the rooms, as sound can travel there as well. On the flip-side, you do need vents in the room (both a way in and out), or the air will get stale, it won't be heated/cooled, and worst case can actually lead to mold growth. It is only fairly recently that they started building homes with return vents in most rooms -- in older homes, the gap under the door is actually the only way air circulates when the door is closed, and usually there is just one return vent per floor.

You can only minimize sound travelling through structure. Using a foam core door or an interior door designed for soundproofing would be a good option. A solid door should also transmit less sound than a hollow one. An exterior door may also be an option.

There are of course other concerns like sound travelling through walls and other structure, but that's beyond the scope of this question and also fairly well covered by other questions.


If the heads of screws are in good condition(clean) a drill/driver probably best bet to remove. Dirty or damaged heads, a hammer is useful, either pull them up or hammer them down.  If hammering them down, make sure nothing underneath them, gas or water lines/pipes, electrical cables, someones head.


The fan in the fridge probably doesn't have anything to do with the frost-free features (or the compressor, for that matter). Most fridges only have chilling components in the freezer and then circulate cold air into the fridge portion with a fan, according to a thermostat in the fridge.

If your freezer is frosting up I would look at the defrost heater first. It should be located behind a panel at the back of the freezer, near the evaporator coils.

It's also possible you have a defective thermostat that is not calling for the fan to circulate air into the fridge as it should.


Can a neutral be shared beween the line and load side of a GFCI if it's on the same circuit?

This is a common issue that arises from the previous meaning of the word LOAD.

You're used to talking about the cables in a box as "Line" meaning the supply cable from the service panel, and "Load" referring to the cable(s) that go onward to other points-of-use.

With GFCI, you have to throw that definition out.  In fact, I use the word "Onward" to refer to those onward cable(s).

GFCI has hijacked the word "LOAD" to mean extending GFCI protection to also protect certain specific onward outlets or points-of-use. You should never, ever use the LOAD terminals on a GFCI unless you mean to do precisely that.

Usually people go after the LOAD terminals merely because their old receptacle had wires on 4 screws and they don't know where else to put the extra 2 wires.  This results in protecting downline loads inadvertently - they have no idea what effect that has, and have no idea how to fix it when it starts tripping.  Don't do that.

When you actually, really do want to protect a downline, you must take that particular downline's hot and neutral wires both, and put both of them on LOAD.  You would never put just one on LOAD.

So you say you have a kitchen circuit that feeds aquarium, gas stove, vent and fridge.  Let's go through those loads.

Aquarium - oh yes, you want that on GFCI!
Gas stove - Is it grounded? A steel box that is grounded is vanishingly unlikely to have the kind of problem GFCIs help with.  It might be a source of nuisance trips though.
Vent - is hardwired and does not need to be on GFCI. Again if grounded, GFCI is of little use here.
Refrigerator -- is a human-safety nightmare for GFCI.  It's a steel box, grounded, all the mains electric is in the bottom back where it's totally inaccessable, and you're really not likely to drop it in the sink.   So it's simply not a use case for GFCI at all. GFCI does not help fridges. However, a GFCI nuisance trip can take out a fridge, and now you have a huge human safety problem in food spoilage.  Fridges do not need to be on GFCI. Further, fridges are notorious for tripping GFCIs themselves.  Putting this on GFCI is a bad idea.

But if you have any other loads, evaluate them on a case by case basis and decide whether to attach their hot + neutral to GFCI LINE or LOAD.


Do shower doors for tiled openings have to fit the width exactly?

Almost any such door has a range of adjustment or applicability, often in the form of panel lap. Tiled openings just aren't that precise. Look at the installation manuals for any models you like. They'll tell you what the range is.

For example, this one specifically lists 56-60".

  Up to 4 in. of adjustment for width, if needed


Honeywell temperature attained but app says heating

There is a dead band set point in the thermostat
This set point may heat for several degrees above the set point and not turn on until several degrees below.
The dead band saves you $ because starting a furnace and heating / or cooling the duct work takes energy, so fewer starts and stops an hour end up saving $. where more on off cycles costing much more.
Many times they come +- 2 degrees so the furnace will not shut down until it is 2 degrees over the set point and it won’t restart until it is -2 or below the set point by 2 degrees.
That 4 degree swing is a larger than I like.
In the summer I do not let my system get above the set point so it is +0,-2 or -3. In the winter I don’t want it colder than the set point so I have it +2 or +3, -0 .
You can set it so it kicks on all the time by reducing the span the effect this has on your power bill is BIG. I wouldn’t go below 2 degree differential and 3 is better for energy efficiency. On the flip side a swing of 5 really starts to make no difference and people notice the cold or heat as not comfortable, with a span of 5 or larger swings.
So your thermostat is functioning the way I would expect.


Replacement capacitor for my ceiling fan. 5μF300v

I do not know why hunter has chosen a 300v for one leg when most other CBB61 5 wires are 250v on all three legs.  Inductive surge/kickback on one speed versus the other two is all I can suspect.
I did notice that for hunter fans they sell a two piece unit for replacement listings.  The photo looks like one cap is 300v value and the other is dual 250v.

hunter replacement


The answers are all in the manual
An ordinary 3-way switch uses two travelers. A smart switch doesn't necessarily need two travelers, and this one doesn't. There is an accessory switch available to let you dim at both locations. But assuming you are replacing one 3-way switch with the dimmer and the other one is staying the same, you wire according to Two Location Control Using a 3-Way Switch.

Top Left = Neutral (white, connected to the existing white bundle)
Top Right = Hot (note, this must be true hot, not "switched hot")
Bottom Right = Load, also known as "switched hot".
Bottom Left = Traveler. Yes, just one traveler.

This is almost certainly doable, since you have the sometimes elusive neutral available in the box. But it may get tricky. Specifically, typical configuration is that one of the 3-way switches will connect to two travelers and hot, and the other to two travelers and switched hot. But this smart switch needs to connect to both hot and switched hot, and the ordinary 3-way switch needs to connect to hot.
Note: Major changes to original answer, now that OP posted a second picture.
It looks now like this is either:

Power -> switch 2 -> switch 1 -> fixture

or

Power -> switch 1 -> switch 2 -> fixture

(My original answer had power and fixture both connecting in the switch 1 box.)
Basic answer will still be along the lines of:

Use one traveler as a "signal"
Use the other (former) traveler as a way to get hot (not switched) between the boxes

But the specifics will vary depending on exactly what is going on. In particular, determination of which switch connects to power and which switch connects to the fixture.


Why does this receptacle have the ground tied to the neutral?

Yikes, good find! This is most definitely the reason.  The ground and neutral are only supposed to be tied together at the main panel.  In this case, instead of only the neutral carrying current, both the ground and neutral will carry it.

There is no legit reason that I know of to do this at an outlet.  I wonder if perhaps the neutral was open and the previous person was trying to cheat to make the outlet work?  Do disconnect this. I would check other outlets in the house. An outlet tester may help speed this up but they don't detect all conditions.

Grounding is an important safety aspect of your house. If you suspect there is a more systemic problem with the houses grounding, get an electrician to take a look. Better safe than sorry.


How do I caulk shower edges with the same color as my grout?

Answer comes really late for the original poster, but may help others. Siliconized caulk is acrylic plus silicone, not suitable for constant water exposure (but fine and easy to use in mostly dry areas). A shower should be caulked with 100% silicone, NOT siliconized caulk.


Anytime a dead wire runs parallel to a hot one, it will pick up phantom voltage.   You can see it with a rather sensitive voltmeter like a modern DVM, but it won't do any useful work.   In other words this is an issue with your voltmeter.  Stick a dollar-store nightlight in each outlet and that will eliminate the phantoms.

The bigger problem is this shared neutral.   Neutrals do not have circuit breakers.  Two hots on the same neutral can overload the neutral, and I notice some scorch marks and heat damage on that neutral wire.

The only way "sharing a neutral" can work is a special arrangement called a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC).  Each hot is on a different "leg" of 240V, and the neutral only carries the difference in currents.   Becuase of numerous mishaps relating to shared neutrals, Code now requires you install MWBCs in a way that guarantees they are wired to opposite poles.  Such as using either a 2-pole 240V breaker or two adjacent breakers with listed, approved handle ties.  I can tell you are not to modern Code on that, because you can turn each side off individually.

The most common mistake with MWBCs is using duplex/tandem breakers, or half-width breaker arrangements which put both breakers on the same pole. This guarantees a neutral overload situation.


"power buffer" in front of generator for peak power shaving?

Buy a (petrol-fired) air compressor and pneumatic tools, or go for a bigger generator. (Good) Inverter can cost nearly as much as a generator, also remember that an inverter rated for 2kW has a substained rate of about half. I found on Amazon this 3kW inexpensive inverter, check if it may be good for you. Anyway, with an inverter it's important that the battery can provide all the instantaneous power needed, and also that the wires are thick enough: 3000W@12V -> 250A it needs really big wires (60mm^2). Also remember that motors may require a start-up current that can be more than 7 times the 'rated'.


Can’t shut off power to heat-only (hydronic baseboard) thermostat

The reason you need to cut off power when replacing a thermostat is to prevent the wires from touching each other in the process of disconnecting and reconnecting all of them.  Assuming it is using 24VAC control (you need to measure it to make sure it's not high voltage), you are not in danger of getting shocked, but if the wrong wires touch each other, it could blow a fuse or damage the equipment.

If you can't turn off the power (lets just assume you can't) then just be very careful and don't let the bare wires touch anything.  The best way to do this is tape up each wire as it is disconnected and never have more than one wire un-taped at a time.  Treat the wires like live voltage that could shock you to make sure you are being careful enough. A small touch of wires or touching the wrong screw could cause damage to the system.

If the thermostat has a separate mounting plate that the wires connect to, it makes it easier (most common these days).  If the wires connect directly to the thermostat, you need to make sure the thermostat is completely off until all wires are disconnected and reconnected.


Would a drain 28 inches high be too tall for a sink?

It all depends on the use of the sink. Typical counter height ranges from ~ 30 inches to 36 inches. In bathrooms it is typically lower - 30 - 32 inches, but 36 inches is standard for kitchens in the US (dishwashers and slide-in ranges are sized based on a 36 inch high counter). A sink can even be a little higher, though above 36 inches a sink can be harder to use for shorter people. A lot also depends on the use - washing hands is different from washing big pots & pans.

Figuring on a bar sink with a depth of 10" (from a quick search, but I think that is typical), and adding a few inches for sink drain, coupling to trap, etc., my guess is your counter height (top of sink) should be somewhere in the 42" - 46" range. A quick search shows typical wet bar height at 42". That is really for the part between the bartender and the customers. The sink area behind the bar can be lower, but at least that gives a basis for a 42" height. A shallower sink (~ 8" instead of 10") would definitely help too.

If you are getting a plumber to do the work, I suggest you have them review the design before you purchase cabinets, counters & sink. If you are doing the plumbing yourself then come back with more specifics once you have a planned design and one of the experts (I'm not a plumbing expert) can review in more detail.


If your power washer is anything like mine, I wouldn't use it for fascia washing - you'll definitely be able to take the paint off, but you do run the risk of damaging roof tiles or shingles as well as forcing water into places it will not normally get to.

While it may seem a lot of effort, a ladder and a set of scrapers and sanding blocks will be your best bet. This will also leave them ready to paint straight away, rather than waterlogged.


How do I tie a new roof in to an existing roof with a pitch transition?

The new felt should go under the old felt.
The new flashing should go under the old felt and over the new felt and new roll roofing.
Depends on the slope of the new roof. The lower the slope the further it should extend.
Roofing nails to the existing structural sheathing.

The big idea is that layers of the lower roof should sit below corresponding layers of the upper roof. That is:

Everything should lap just like shingles.
Nothing should back-lap.
The flashing should double lap the roll roofing.
Even though the higher roof was installed first, the end result must be the same as if you started at the eave and worked all the way to the ridge.


How can I insulate my attic conversion, without pulling down the plasterboard?

The most common method would be to blow in high density cellulose between the rafters. This method requires that a small hole (1 to 2 inches each) be drilled in sheetrock, at the top and bottom of each bay. After the insulation is blown in, repair the holes or use plugs to cover the holes. Foam can also be used, but is about 4X the cost of cellulose and very tricky to install without bowing or damaging the rock.

Regardless if you use cellulose or foam, this is not typically a DIY project. Many insulation contractors offer this service and have the right tools to assure a good fill.


What kind of electrical outlet is this, and how do I replace it?

The holes in the back accept straight wire and are electrically connected directly to the screws on the side.  The holes are a newer connection method while the screws are more traditional.  Tightening the screws presses contacts against the wires in the holes and holds them in place.

In this case, you have a feed wire going to one and then continuing on to another place from the second.  By the electrical code (at least in Ontario), you're not allowed to do this.  You must connect the feed to the branch and to a short "stub" wire with a marette and then connect that stub wire to your outlet (either at the screw or through the hole in the back).  Some people take short-cuts, however, and connect it this way to avoid the marettes.

Aside from that, I'll note that you have a "split circuit" outlet here.  The top and bottom outlets are on different circuits, perhaps because it's a kitchen outlet and thus they must be split circuit (by the electrical code of Ontario, anyway -- your mileage may vary) or because one outlet (with the red wire) is "switched" by some wall switch.  Make sure you break off the connector tabs between the two sockets on the new outlet so you don't accidentally short the two circuits together.

EDIT: As pointed out by @MichaelKaras, some outlets don't bind the straight-in wires with the screws but have spring-loaded clips that hold the wire and are released by inserting a small screwdriver into the square opening just above the hole.

EDIT: @MPelletier makes a great comment: US multi-wire circuits like that require either a double breaker or that the two breakers be yoked together so that you can't only turn off one. You might consider fixing the breaker box wiring for safety purposes.  That's true in Canada as well.


Apart from a thermostat, where else can a C-Wire go?

Air conditioners need a C wire, too!

That separate cable that is connected to your Y and C wires goes out to your air conditioner's outdoor unit.  It connects to the coil of a contactor inside the outdoor unit that turns the compressor and condenser fan motors on when you want air conditioning and off when the air conditioning demand has been satisfied.

Heat pumps require a fatter cable as they have more wires going to them, and some modern units substitute a control board for the simple contactor found in an older air conditioner as they have a multispeed or modulating compressor and/or multispeed condenser fan.


Is my thermostat transformer voltage too low?

Is there a C wire at the thermostat?  You should measure between R and C for a proper voltage reading.

Y connects back to the other side of the transformer through the coil of the contactor, in the condensing unit.  G connects back to the other side of the transformer through the coil in the fan relay, in the air handler.  C connects directly back to the other side of the transformer.

The only way to get an accurate measurement of the transformer voltage, is to measure between R and C.


Do I need a lead-free water hammer arrestor for washing machine?

If you are concerned about saving money, get the "not lead safe" one as this is a non-potable water installation.

If you are paranoid about lead and the remote possibility that a significant amount of lead could backflow from the cheaper arrester installation into your drinking water then spend the extra money on the lead-free certified product.

This is, in my opinion, an example of warnings gone awry where the actual danger is so remote as to be implausible.  I doubt that the less expensive product contains any lead at all but if you feel the need to be 100% certified then why are you quibbling about a few dollars?


It looks like the existing cast iron nub is the problem more than the pvc.  If you are covering in tile you can cut out a hole in your sheetrock or wonderboard this will save you 1/2 inch.  Then you can tile right over the area.  You may have to build the wall out some to do this but there is no other way.  End result will be your tile will be only a tile thickness past the nub on your finish wall.


No water to toilet after the city purged hydrants

If the first comment doesn't work and there is a speedy valve below the toilet;
with two people-

first turn off main water valve.
Open cold water faucet in the affected bath to release the water pressure then close it gently.
With a small bucket at hand, remove the bonnet (valve handle has to be neither all open nor all closed) off the toilet speedy valve
then have the 2nd person open the main valve slightly to purge the toilet line while catching the water in the bucket.
Reassemble bonnet onto valve,
open main valve slowly and test for flow at toilet. Make sure you left the toilet valve in the open position.

Speedy valve:


Although you can nearly always use something from a normal toolbox, a hook spanner is ideal. One of the top two in this image would work (the third is a pin spanner):


Home Theater projector re-searches for input when power surges (light/ac/fridge turning on or off)

Something is sensitive to fluctuations in voltage. My first guess would be the receiver.

Instead of buying a new projector or receiver, buy a power conditioner. This will ensure that your cable box, receiver and projector all receive a constant voltage.


That is not at all how a toilet should connect to the floor. You'll need to remove the toilet, clean away all the caulk, and set it anew.

In my part of the world we use a ring of waxy material, sometimes with an embedded rubber flange, to make the seal between the toilet and the floor. This is a one-time use product and must be replaced if the toilet is re-set.

Anytime you encounter caulk in plumbing you can assume that something is very wrong. If it hasn't failed already, it soon will.


Guidelines for running tv cables behind walls for an HD TV

The placement of the hole is not critical so long as it will be behind the tv panel. Obviously a hole immediately under a structural component of the mount might be a problem.

The mount is more critical than the hole. Buy the type of mount you need and see where it lands in relation to the hole. There may be no conflict. If there is, covering the old hole and making a new one is not hard.

A bigger issue is how you terminate the wires and cables.  Are you bringing power to an outlet immediately behind the tv? If so, you need an appropriately mounted electrical outlet box. Additionally, a hole may slightly compromise insulation and allow a draft, so it is a good idea to have a box and a cover plate for the cables even if the are not power cables.

There are specialty outlet boxes with low voltage media connectors or access holes. You should determine the placement of this after the mount is in place on the wall.


Is a water pressure booster pump with an induction motor suitable for kitchen tap use?

I don't see induction motors as being particularly slow to start, so the answer is yes, it should be suitable.

There is no reason from a plumbing point of view why the booster pump has to be under the sink.  It can be anywhere on the supply line to the kitchen sink.  This may allow you to put the pump where it's noise is less of a problem.  Oh, wait:  If you are boosting the mixed water, it would need to be near.  And if you aren't, you are going to pump water in circles through the mixing valve.

I dont see why an induction motor would be any quieter either.  Noise may be due to resonance between the pump and the plumbing.  This can be markedly reduced if you can use rubber hoses for the linkage instead of metal pipe.  Mounting the motor on a resiliant pad can help too.

In general a more massive motor tends to be quieter, better bearings tend to be quieter.  Induction motors may have better bearings.

Can the pressure in the whole house use a boost?  Would a house sized booster pump and a pressure tank for the entire house be appropriate?


Rigid board installed after framing in Interior Basement Walls - Should I be concerned about trapped moisture?

Air layers in insulated walls could help to carry the condensed water out (if the air can circulate) - otherwise it could accumulate moisture.

It depends on the sequence of layers. In this wall here the insulation layer is at the inside of the concrete layer, which could be a problem.

To get precise information, this web site may help:

Ubakus.de

By inputting the layers, possible problems will be shown in a second.

Experimenting/researching is easy by switching on/off of layers.

R-value can be shown by clicking on the spanner/tool icon next to the U-value.

It is free for private use.

Fastest way is to choose an adequate example (menu) and to edit the layers.


What kind of material do I need above the tile line in my shower?

Given your requirements, and in the shower area only, I would put up a cementitious backer board like Hardibacker or Kerdi-board and use drywall mud to smooth it as necessary. Elsewhere in the bathroom I use normal sheetrock.


Low water pressure at reverse osmosis tap after running fridge dispenser

Reverse osmosis systems have a holding tank containing treated water. If you run it for an extended period and drain the holding tank the pressure will often drop until it's replenished. I'm guessing your refrigerator water is sourced from the RO system. If so, it should replenish but sometimes with slow flow systems it takes a while..


can I put 3 new light fixtures and switches on the same breaker

There should be no problem running 3 ceiling fans on a single 15 ampere circuit, though it will depend on what else is on the circuit.

Say a 52" fan is 90-100 watts (at high speed), plus three 60 watt bulbs. That puts each fixture at 280 watts or so. Which means three of them, would be 840 watts.

A 120 volt 15 ampere circuit, can supply 1880 watts (120 volts x 15 amperes = 1880 watts). Some folks will argue that you should only load the circuit to 80%, so that would be 1440 watts for a 120 volt 15 ampere circuit. Which even so, is still enough to supply the fixtures.

Note: the values used in the answer are an estimate, for example purposes only.  Check the listed wattage for the devices you'll actually be using.


Round junction box - new light has square mounting plate

Generally it's either no problem at all - there are mounting holes that match, and the box will be covered, or you need some sort of adapter to go from the holes you have to the holes you need - which MOSTLY only works if the holes in the box are further apart than the holes in the device.


How to install deck railing post sleeves on these posts?

Making some dangerous assumptions here...
You'll be removing everything between the posts so that you can slip the sleeve over the top, then reattach everything, right?
While you've got it all apart, take 2 of your post covers and cut one complete side off so that you've got a U shape and slip it on by pressing toward the house. You will likely have to cut each remaining side individually to fit exactly against the house to have a nice, flush finished look.
On the post in the 2nd picture, you can probably slip the sleeve between the wood and the vinyl siding so it won't have to be a perfect cut, just long enough to cover the gap.
On the post in the 1st picture, you'll want to scrape the paint off so you've got a nice surface on that (currently) white trim, then scribe the post cover to fit nice and snug up against it.
Once you've got each of the modified post covers fitting the way you want, run a bead of construction adhesive (like Liquid Nails™ - check the label to ensure it's compatible with wood and your cover material) on each inside edge of your cover, then slip it on and probably apply a couple of clamps until the adhesive is set.
Finish by reinstalling all the railing between the newly covered posts.


How can I stop a dishwasher water supply from causing the tap water to smell?

A check valve will surely prevent water from flowing backwards, as that's exactly what it's designed to do.

In case you're not familiar with them, the arrow points in the direction of flow. So whichever way you want the water to flow, point the arrow in that direction.


The usual approach is to cut a thin strip of the same jamb and moldings and glue into place.

You can also fill in small spots with an epoxy based product like Bondo or other paste-like filler (would not use it for thicker vertical surfaces since it may slump). It can be carved and sanded like a hard wood.

A combination of these techniques should give you a pretty unnoticeable surface once painted.


Should I refinish hardwood floor with scratches?

If the scratches are all in the finish rather than gouging the wood, then (depending on what finish is already there) a "screen and re-coat" pass might be another option. That approach just roughs and somewhat levels the surface of the existing finish, then lays down a fresh coat on top of it. Faster and cheaper, can yield good results if the floor's basically in good condition, doesn't cut into the "wear layer" of laminate flooring as much as a full refinish would... but won't take out any deeper damage and may not be applicable for all finishes, especially if they've had polishes/waxes applied on top of them.

(I just know it's an option, can't advise on details. Personally, I sorta like the fact that some of my floors have clearly been in use as long as the house has stood here; as long as there's enough finish to protect the wood and it's clear enough to let me see the wood, I'm happy.)

Unless you want to darken the wood, I wouldn't consider staining unless necessary to match color in a damaged area... especially since you have to strip ALL the varnish off first or the stain will go down unevenly. Remember that wood looks different dry than it does either wet or under a varnish (try wiping it with denatured alcohol to get a better sense of what it will look like when varnished). Also remember that the varnish may add some color of its own, depending on what you use.


How to electrically ground a gas furnace connected with an armoured cable

Someone forgot a fitting

Normally, armored cables (like yours) are brought into a box using a fitting designed to clamp the the cable armor, grounding it to the box and also providing a strain relief for the cable inside.  Your furnace installer didn't have that fitting on hand, though, so they simply shoved the cable through the hole and shoved a "redhead" bushing into the end of the cable to protect the wires inside, leading to the mess that you see here.

So, with the breaker off, I would undo that armored cable (including taking the "redhead" out), get the correct fitting, insert the fitting into the KO and hold it on with a locknut, cut the bonding strip off at the end of the cable armor and insert the cable into the fitting, insert the "redhead" into the armored cable again, and reconnect the hot and neutral wires.  Then, you'll at least have this furnace properly grounded.


Pass CATV and ethernet over single ethernet wire

Based on this AVforum thread (from 2018), forwarding a coax-delivered TV/satellite signal over Ethernet isn't possible and if it were, it would probably be a bad idea anyway. Some relevant quotes in case the link dies:

Unlike say a HDMI signal you had previously which is just one signal albeit high bandwidth satellite signals are lots of different ones on the cable. Hence you use a satellite tuner to tune into the relevant frequency.
Sky Q uses a wideband LNB which has a frequency range of 230MHz to 2359MHz so not feasible to send all these signals this cables in a different manner down a CAT cable.I'm not certain what TV carrier the OP is using, but I believe the concept is similar no matter who the carrier is. --Ed

A good friend of mine is an aerial/satellite specialist and says it's not even a good idea to extend coax with more coax! Whenever there is a break in the copper joined by couplers or whatever, the impedance can change massively affecting signal quality. He doesn't even terminate to sockets and runs cable from LMB to Sky box because of these issues; he's been burned by this too many times.

Since it seems you have conduit in your walls, your best bet would be to pull a good quality coax cable (I believe RJ56 (or is it RJ59?) is the current "best") from the entry point in your house to as close to your use point as possible.
Both high-grade coax and Cat6 cables are well insulated against RF interference, and the Cat6 cables design even allows it to run next to power lines without picking up significant interference. (Note: it's still recommended to keep Ethernet cables away from power, but it's not critical in most use cases, and it's only a few inches.)


Would my fridge be causing the 20amp gfci to trip

The fridge is most likely tripping the GFCI. Most folks recommend not plugging refrigerators into GFCI circuits, for this exact reason.

Refrigerator manufacturer's still have trouble controlling current leakage, and most of them are basically ignoring the problem. One day the manufacturer's will be forced to address the problem, but until then they'll likely keep tripping GFCIs.

Either run a non-GFCI circuit to plug the fridge in, or find a manufacturer that doesn't have the problem, and by a fridge from them.


Can I run a gas hot water heater on propane?

I have done the conversion many times, in fact if you have the paperwork your water heater came with the orifice to change it over may be in there. On the water heaters, furnaces and ovens/ stove tops I have done all that was needed was a small brass orifice . The orifice is a brass disk with a tiny hole and usually a number or letter stamped on it. The orifice is on the output side of the regulator and changes the amount of gas the pressure was the same with both propane and natural gas. If your’s did not come with the orifice your local plumbing and electric specialty store may have them that’s where I got them several times. I would check with the manufacturer to make sure your water heater can be run on propane but all it has taken in the dozens I have done was the larger orifice.


Just make sure the cement board is out from the outer part of the tub.  It being uneven underneath is not consequential.  You just need your cement board to be able to lay flat and I usually place mine about 1/8" from tub.


Will coaxial cable installed in the 1970s be fast enough for internet speeds 400 Mb/s+?

Other than the pesky but unknown question of "exactly which type is it" coaxial cable has not really changed much in 50 years. If it's not defective, it will probably work. Otherwise, it's 50 feet, replace it, or let the provider replace it. Most providers will allow you to try a new service speed and decline if it does not work for you at the claimed speed.
Cable length (new or old) adds to loss of signal strength, and at some point that will affect what service you can get. More expensive, fatter, harder to bend cable can have less loss for the same distance at the same frequency. But it's rarely an issue in normal home-scale cable plants serviced by decent cable-company infrastructure (where they deal with providing enough signal strength to service most of their customers houses without extreme measures being required.) If your current modem permts you to view the signal strength it's getting, you might get some insight - otherwise the cable tech has a fancier meter that will let them know if it can work when they hook it up.
Why you "upgraded" from "perfectly happy to do gigabit" Cat5e to Cat6 for the prospect of possibly having 400 Mbit or even 1 gigabit is beyond me, though.


You may have a shorted element that will cause water to over heat which in turn will cause the T&P to open regularly/occasionally.


Tankless hot water heater cycles on without any water running

Tankless water heaters have a flow switch and temperature sensors.  Flow switch activates the water heater when water is flowing and the temperature sensors control the amount of heat delivered.  Perhaps the flow switch is stuck on.


Mains wires aren't paired, is this a problem?

You should not need to select a pair from the four live and neutral wires.

In a ring main the incoming live is always connected to the outgoing live, the incoming neutral is always connected to the outgoing neutral.

To add a second socket on the opposite wall you connect a new cable to all the existing cables - so you get three reds connected, three blacks connected and three greens connected.

With the new colours, a newly purchased piece of twin&earth would have brown for live (connect to both existing reds), blue for neutral (connect to both existing blacks) and bare for ground (cover with green/yellow sleeve and connect to both existing greens). Any connectors you use need to be rated at 32A.

At no point do you separate out one red and one black as a pair. Separating them from the others would split the ring and could cause overheating and fire in one leg of the broken ring.

Diagram by Ali@gwc.org.uk - used under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic license.


What wire size do I need for a 200A residential service?

If the load is feeding the entire home it can be de rated to 83% as long as the calculated load Is below this 166A  310.15.B.7.1 (& .2)
AND
The ampacity of the feeder can not be below 83% so 4/0 rated at 180 amps is the minimum
The 75 degree table is used. Per NEC 110.14.C.1.b
@Jack had it I provided the code references.
Yes if overhead run some think that table can be used but only if the feed has less than 24” of conduit.


Full Structural Survey for Listed, Managed Building

This depends on how old the flat itself is, and what it's built of.

If it were actually in an 18th Century listed building, then you should definately have a full structural survey and also a specialist asbestos report as there could easily be asbestos remaining in the structure.

If it's a new development in the grounds, then treat as any other flat of the same age and structure. Management companies are not always well-run, they may not always be assertive enough at getting money to pay for maintenance, and the building may have been under-maintained for years.

Also check exactly what the listing encompasses and your responsibility for contributing to maintenance of the 18th Century building as listed building work can be very expensive - and a criminal offence if a listed building is altered or damaged without permission.


Toilet is running but the flapper is clean and intact

There are a few places where the flap valve/overflow tube assembly could be leaking. Check for loose parts, but don't over-tighten or you'll crack plastic parts or, worse, the porcelain!

There are bolts holding the tank to the bowl, with rubber washers to prevent leakage. Make sure the bolts and nuts are tight -- sometimes, the tank will shift, loosening the bolts.
The flap valve seat (often part of the overflow tube assembly) also has a rubber washer underneath, and a foam rubber collar. If the valve seat is loose, the tank must be removed to tighten the large-diameter nut.
Check that the overflow tube is not cracked.
Check that the flap valve and seat are clean and have no splits or cracks.

See the City of Denver's tips on fixing leaks.


Matching wood stain to paintable plastic

The best way to match it is to remove a small piece of the siding and take it to any paint store that offers computerized color match. I/E: A piece of window trim, a loose knot hole, or use a painters 5-way tool to chisel out a very small piece from the bottom of a corner board or other inconspicuous place. Also, you might try calling a local paint distributor like Sherwin-Williams. Tell them you are considering some paint upgrades and you would like them to come out and match up the color with a fan-deck so you can weigh your options. If they think there will be a big future paint sale at stake, they will send out one of their road reps to speak with you and match the color. Remember to use a primer on that plastic before you paint it.


There are certainly switches available, like this Leviton:

or if you don't like Decora style, here is another one suggested by @Alaska Man also from Leviton:

The key phrase is momentary contact. Make sure you get something properly designed for 120V use. There are tons of switches from Digikey and similar places for use in building electronic stuff. But for a disposal you need something UL-listed (or equivalent).
Make sure the switch can handle the disposal. Lights are easy on a switch (especially with today's low-power LEDs). Motors like disposals are not. These two examples are rated for up 1/2 HP @ 120V, which is enough for a standard (in my area) Badger 5 but not for some bigger models.


How to install reclaimed stone pathway without plastic edging?

You can dig down an inch or so and "plant" the stones without using a container as such. If you dig a 3 foot wide area and place the stone pieces in the excavated area, the pristine earth/grass surrounding them will pretty much hold them in place.
Your success will vary based on the soil type and amount of water involved, etc. Sandy soil that gets a lot of rain, for example may not work as well as other conditions.


Should I cancel our appointment with the repair tech for our washing machine?

The first (and easiest) two things to check are:

Drainage hose  - Inspect for kinks or other obstructions.  Measure the max height of the pipe and verify via the manual that it is within acceptable limits.
Machine Level - With a long level, check the machine front-to-back and side-to-side for level.  Adjust the feet to correct as necessary.  Even if level, ensure all of the feet are making solid contact with the floor.


How should the transition from tile to carpet be done?

If you would like wood transitions here is an example that HD has. I think wood looks better than the metal ones but metal is a little easier to install aluminum transition. I have had the carpet guys install the transitions they usually have the good ones that lock the edge of the carpet in place I did not see that style when I was looking at the aluminum.


Why mate two boards instead of using one thicker board?

It has to do more with the quality of the the 2x6s vs the 4x6.  A 4x6 x 12 board would have to be clear all the way through, with no cracks or knots. Most softwood logs won't produce this board, and if it cracks, it is likely to break more easily vs the 2x6.

On the other hand, drilling a bunch of holes in a 2x6 does it no favors, though because the two boards are tied together, weak spots in one board are often compensated by its partner.

So, if you could find a really good 4x6, go with it, but otherwise use the 2x6.  In most cases, the 4x6 will be more expensive due to its rarity.

In colonial times, they would have gone with the 4x6, as they had lots of hardwood timber and each individual cut took a long time.


Connecting downspout to first floor gutter

Do not put holes into roof.

Two screws into the outflow.  If you are in a hurricane area or someplace with crazy winds you could put another 90 into the gutter which will keep the section on the roof from moving around too much.  If you still feel that isn't adequate you could secure the lower gutter 90 to the lower gutter.


Fluorescent light requires twist to start

The tombstones are defective and this is why you need to twist the bulb.

The tombstones are the bulb connector mounting - I am guessing you have a Bi-Pin although single pins can have the issue they are less susceptible .

You can replace the tombstones, however the price you will pay for the replacement parts and the time to replace them might not make it feasible.

I have had this situation and just replaced the unit with a $24 LED unit.


So I put some penetrating oil in as suggested by @EdBeal, and then proceeded to pry the crap out of it to get it open. Took a little work but it did happen.

Unfortunately, the previous owner leaving it out all winter didn't do it much good, and the motor is beyond the amount of money and time I want to put into it.

Fortunately I was able to get a hold of another one that's in much better shape, so the pool is happy again!


What type of screw do I need for this faucet handle?

Different brands and types use different screw sizes and threads. A "variety pack" probably would be your best bet under the circumstances you describe.
I will say that if you get 6-32, 8-32, and 10-24 x 3/8" and 1/2" long round head brass machine screws you have a pretty good chance of one of them fitting.


How would I replace this light bulb in the pic

That whole plastic base pulls directly out. That is a compact fluorescent bulb, be careful not to breathe any powder/dust that comes out of the broken tube(s), not good for you.


What is a good finish for a table made from a solid door?

You can probably use a good food grade mineral oil. I used to use it on my butcher block counter top.


You say this house "has a truss roof".  If the house truly has a truss roof, the only load bearing wall is at each end of the truss.  But you contradict yourself when you say “the ceiling joists meet about 12 inches to one side of the wall”.  The bottom cord of a truss (what the ceiling dry wall attaches to on truss construction) would be either one piece or spliced.  They also would likely be 2x4 construction on a house that small.  When you say the ceiling joists meet about 12 inches from the wall, I assume you mean that they overlap each other at that point.  I would dearly hope that both ceiling joists reach all the way to the top plate of the wall in question.  If not, and the fact that you say the wall is not directly supported to the building foundation, it looks like poor construction practice and not meeting whatever code is in place at your location.

I just finished removing a wall very similar to what you have described.  But my wall was directly in the center of the house, parallel with the roof peak, and directly over the center beam of the house.  My wife wanted a smooth ceiling, (no header), so the support had to be done in the attic.  I ran the calculations for a 22’ span and found out that a span that long is totally impractical.  So I put a column at 13’ from one end, which I used as a pipe chase for the kitchen sink vent.  With only a 13' span, I was able to use two, 1¾” by 11¼ “ LVLs in each direction from the new column that I shimmed so they were a little more than ¾” apart.  Each other end was in a wall so I was able to add 2x4s as a support and block the space between the basement beam and the subfloor so that the load was transferred down to the foundation.  I also had to check that the resulting point load from these new columns did not overload the basement beam.  I then fabricated some steel “hangers” from 4” channel and ¾” threaded rod to catch the two ceiling joists that overlapped the old wall.  The two lapped ceiling joists nested perfectly in the 4" channel, and the threaded rod slipped between the two LVLs to above a top ¼” plate that spanned the twin LVLs allowed a firm bolted connection.  The ceiling joists were shimmed as required to keep the ceiling level.

So I agree with Jimmy Fix-it on the inadequacy of a 4"x8" for a 13’ span.  You don’t say where you are, north or south.  If you are south, you don’t have a huge snow load to worry about.  But I would spend the money and engage an engineer to evaluate the current design situation, as any changes you do could exasperate the problem.


Actually, they do.

Look at the packages for "Key Numbers"

Every lock package will have a prominent 3-5 digit "Key Number" somewhere on the outside of the package, typically the back. All packages with the same key number use the same key.

So if you have 3 knobs and 2 deadbolts you all want keyed alike, buy 3 knob+deadbolt sets of the same number.

Generally there are 3-8 lock packages in a carton (all with the same style/color/SKU).  Every package in the carton will have the same key number.  Search the packages with the same SKU until you find your matches.  If not enough match, see if they have an unopened carton on the racks, or hit another big-box store.  (This is the one time I'll recommend big-box; they buy whole cartons).

This only works within the same SKU (barcode number). Do not turn the store upside down looking for the same key number on a different SKU, you won't find it.  So if you need 3 knobs + 2 deadbolts, you must buy 3 knob+deadbolt sets, not 2 and a loose knob.

Speaking of security...  Buy your lock-sets far away, at places you don't normally shop. Once we demoted someone in a club and changed the knob/lock to his office.  He drilled out ours and fit his own knob-lock. I noted the model, went to the local hardware store and bought one of each key number.  Voilà. He could never figure out how I did it!

Some brands of locks are self-rekeyable. But they're cheap.

Certain low-midline brands of lock allow you to "re-key" the lock to any arbitrary key.  You unlock it, insert a special tool, and then insert the new desired key.  These are compatible with certain keyways.   I'm not a fan, honestly; the mechanism seems flimsy given the price point.

Your friendly neighborhood locksmith can do anything

They can make anything you want. But the price will be nosebleed compared to the other options.   They can cheerfully build any lock-set (even a padlock!) to match your key.

First, there are 3 kinds of locksmiths:

Scammers who flood Google. They collect your contact info and sell it to shady "outbound only" locksmiths who come to you, overcharge you, and/or case your house for a later break-in.
Outbound-only.  They have a truck, not a shop, and their business is the urgent call and collecting that service charge for coming to you.
Shop-based locksmiths (it need not be neat). They are happy for you to come to them, and can make anything since they have a well-equipped shop. They cheerfully handle routine requirements at sensible cost (for locksmiths).

So when calling around, if they pressure you to come to you, hang up the phone: that's a fly-by-night with a truck.  Going to their well-worn location assures they're the real deal.  You can also find them in 10-year-old phone books.


In San Francisco, I’m building stairs with a top landing. How big should the landing be?

You need a 36" minimum deep landing, regardless of the door size. The width of the landing should be at least 36", but no narrower than the stair. Also, if your deck door is an egress door, the landing can't be more than 1 1/2" below the interior floor elevation.


Is it safe to seal the seams/gaps on washer and dryer units?

Yes, it is safe to seal the housing seams with silicone caulk. You aren't going to cause fire or electrical problems doing so (within reason). Use a fine tip and press it in firmly so as to not make a goopy mess of your appliance.
However, I don't think this will accomplish your goal. If the unit is shaking around so much that it's squeaking and buzzing it needs other repair. If not, the sound will make its way out underneath or elsewhere anyway. Adding foam insulation inside could cause heat problems. There's a rather large motor in there, along with heating elements, and the system is designed to manage heat as it is through air convection and metal conduction.


What is this component that connects to the garbage disposal?

This is an air gap fitting for your dishwasher drain. You still need it. Its job is to ensure that waste water in your drain cannot backup into your dishwasher. Since the dishwasher isn't really water tight above a certain level, this eliminates the risk of raw sewage from ending up on your floor via the dishwasher. The air gap needs to be above the flood level of the sink and should be pointed into the sink in case the air gap clogs when the dishwasher is draining.

For your soap dispenser, you'll either need to move the air gap to another side of the sink or move the soap dispenser, but you can not get rid of the air gap or try to hide it under the sink.


You need to restrict the flow through that duct, either by installing a damper like this in the duct, or by installing an adjustable register at the duct outlet, and closing it off until you get similar flow out of all three ducts.


How can I prevent an exterior GFCI outlet from tripping so often?

Do not connect the ground wire to a ground rod at the pole! This is against the code and is very dangerous.

For underground wiring, you want to use UF-B cable. This is rated for direct burial or use in conduit. You should have used scehdule 80 for the conduit as it is thicker and stronger. Schedule 40 PVC conduit can break easier and may be what happened. Depending on how deep you buried it, the conduit could have broke and damaged the cable.

If you used standard romex cable underground, that could be causing a ground fault because the paper insulation in the cable can wick water. Although the paper is not touching the copper of the line and neutral in romex, if water is in the conduit, the cable could have deteriorated and could be shorting to ground slightly.

A big clue is that everything was working for a while and then it started to trip. Look for what has changed since it started to trip. Did you drive something heavy over the area the conduit is buried? Was there recent flooding?

But to reiterate my first comment, DO NOT GROUND THE GFCI TO A SEPARATE GROUND ROD! The circuit breakers will not properly trip during a short circuit condition in this situation.


Is it a bad idea to cool a room on the second floor by pumping air from the basement?

I've had that idea before too... it seems very tempting to get "free" cooling by simply moving air from the cooler basement to the hot upper floors.

I've never tried it, but some problems with this idea might be:

It takes energy to move air, which will turn into extra heat in the cold air. Since you have to raise the cold air several meters, you'll be pushing against natural convection. The temperature coming out of the top of the stack will be somewhat warmer than the temperature in your basement.
Since the temperature difference between the hot and cold sides isn't that great (think about how cold the output of an air conditioner can be), you'll have to move a lot of air to make any sort of noticeable difference. This will make problem #1 worse - moving more air means more energy.
Any air you remove from the basement will have to be replaced by air coming in from somewhere. This air will be warmer, and depending on your climate, may have significant humidity. When the warm air comes into the basement and cools off, its percent relative humidity increases. This process happens naturally all the time, but you'll be accelerating it with your fan. If you already have basement moisture problems, this will make them worse - and it might make moisture problems happen if you don't already have them.

Oh, and one other important thing just in case it applies to your particular situation: in the very unlikely event of a fire in your basement, this air duct could easily become a chimney that pipes hot combustion gases straight up to the upper floors. As those hot gases leave, fresh cold air will tend to rush in and feed the fire, making the fire worse. This is why building codes typically require firestop protection in basement ceilings around fire-prone areas (such as your furnace). Definitely don't do this if the inlet for your duct is near your furnace or any other possible source of fire!


I agree, let it dry out as long as you dare.  When you do have to cover it up, get a tarp that is plenty large enough to cover the damaged area. A pic would be helpful. Get enough 1X3 cheap strapping and use it as a large washer with your tarps.  i'd try to go over the peak, roll the  edges of the tarp around the strapping and pull it as tight as possible and nail it down with 4 or 6d double headed nails.  Then take more strapping and install it perpendicular to the ridge line on 4 ft intervals.  This will help prevent wind from getting under the tarps but let water flow easily down the roof.

Sorry to hear of you misfortune, glad to hear you and yours are OK. A lot of people we not so lucky in the last couple of days.


Is it possible to plug an AC into a kitchen stove hood exhaust?

It sounds like you are attempting to make your own version of a space air conditioner.  These are an air condition broken into two parts.  The first part is an outdoor box that is the size of a brief case and then the other part is the fan that blows the cool air.  The two pieces are connected by about 10 feet of semi-flexible tubing.  They plug into a standard outlet and are meant to only cool small areas such as a room or office.  We used them all the time in Afghanistan.  We could retrofit anything to hold one - tents, conex boxes, sheds...  You would not need to cut holes in the walls for the tubes.  Should be able to run them through the stove hood as long as you don't turn the fan on.  I think it was called a chuga or something.  Works create and they were not too expensive.


Cannot undo tap/Faucet to replace washer

Clean off mineral deposits with a brass or steel brush and a lime dissolver such as CLR or Limewaway. Towel dry as much as possible.  Dry further with hair dryer in an attempt to evaporate as much moisture as possible; this, to leave room for penetrating oil to penetrate.

Aply penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.  Tap, tap, tap the the valve to set up vibrations to encourage the penetrant. A vibrator can be useful to assist, such as an electric tooth brush or electric engraving tool. Allow penetrant to sit for hours and tap some more after that.

Use a tight fitting wrench or possibly a pipe wrench to turn it anti-clockwise.


Does Age of Home need to be considered when encapsulating crawl space?

Encapsulated? I assume you had rigid insulation boards added to the interior side of the foundation walls. If there were foundation vents, did you have them sealed? If not, water could blow in and get trapped between the inside of the foundation wall and the new rigid insulation. It could then freeze and expand. I doubt if it could "move" the foundation wall, unless it could run down and get under the footing. (Some footings are "L" shaped not "T" shaped.) Water may have blown in the crawl space in the past, but it was dried out with the crawl space vents.

By the way, we always design walls so that the bricks are stronger than the mortar. That way, when the wall settles, the mortar cracks, not the bricks. The mortar can be repointed (scraped back a bit and refilled with mortar.)


Should we use A\C in the unused second story of our home?

Almost certainly you should shut off the upstairs AC completely. Ideally you would also seal off the second floor as much as by shutting a door at the top or bottom of the stairs (or installing a curtain across it or something).

The only reasons I can think of to leave it on would be:

If you have any valuable artwork or antique / fragile wood furniture upstairs. Excess heat and humidity could be a problem, especially if the temperatures get really high.
If you don't have a good thermal separation between the upstairs and downstairs it's possible that by leaving the upstairs unconditioned you'll create uncomfortable hot areas downstairs. E.g. if you have a flight of stairs between the floors, the bottom of the stairs might get warm.
If you have separate AC units for upstairs and downstairs and the downstairs one is very inefficient, you'll be making it do more work.


That doesn't make sense, but I guess it doesn't have to make sense to be a problem.  If you're sure that you didn't drop anything down the drain, I'd try a plunger.  The way to use it is not to ram it down hard, trying to power any obstruction through.  Rather make many small strokes up and down to break the obstruction up with oscillations.  If you think you did drop something in the drain take the trap apart and get it out.


When to change Cutler-Hammer electrical panel and breakers?

Not in your lifetime.
Nah, it's cool. Eaton has owned Cutler Hammer since 1978.
Alien breakers require immediate attention!
BRLAFGF115 and BRLAFGF120 are fine.

This looks like a Cutler Hammer "BR" 40-space panel that is full.

The panel is perfect.

Mergers & acquisitions are normal in that business. Eaton just chose to acquire Cutler-Hammer, instead of develop their own line of electrical equipment from scratch with zero experience and blundering into every possible mistake.  It's the same model numbers, same tooling, same factories, same everything. The only real difference is Eaton's logo is cooler.

This kind of panel lineage is normal; your panel actually harkens back to Westinghouse, Challenger, Bryant (hence BR), Cutler Hammer and now Eaton. Indeed, your correct BR breakers are UL cross-listed type C for Challenger.

I am a CH fanboy, but I will concede a couple of advantages to BR.  First, BR breakers are better supported, like their line of remote-control breakers nobody else has; like the BRRP and BRRSP (for BR panels) and nothing for CH. Second, anything Eaton does in their CH line, they can also do in their BR line, because BR breakers are wider; they can just put CH guts in BR bodies.

Eaton is also a specialist in making UL-Classified breakers for competitor panels; these require a tortuous UL-approval process to prove compatibility with the shape of the bus stabs on competitor panels, and Cutler Hammer mastered that to the satisfaction of UL, with their CL line, which is listed for several competitor panels.  You'll soon see why I mention this.

However, it's full of alien breakers

Which means you'll have a lot of Siemens/Murray QP, and Square D HOMeline breakers to sell on Craigslist.  None of those are UL-classified for this panel.

There's a myth, believed by some handymen, that any 1" breaker is compatible with any other.  I wrote that last paragraph to explain why that's a lie.  Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if a couple of your bus stabs are burned, because that's what happens. That makes the space unusable.  Fill the hole with any breaker painted red. (I don't like using factory hole-filler kits because I find them flimsy).

A few breakers in there are so old that they can't be identified by front markings.  If they're BRyant or Cutler-Hammer, they are fine.  However if they are Challenger or Westinghouse, into the trash they go. Westinghouse is just too old. Challenger was swept up in the scandal with FPE and Zinsco breaker safety, but unlike them, that only affected Challenger breakers; Challenger panels are safe as houses if you change the breakers to C/BR.

The right breakers for your panel

Absolutely nothing on Amazon is the right breaker for your panel. Amazon is inundated by third-party sellers, who sell counterfeits or straight junk off Alibaba.  Most people buying from Amazon don't even realize they're buying from the Amazon Marketplace flea market, which is the same quality tier as eBay.

Further, mail order generally for electrical equipment is a terrible idea, because equipment is generally of low cost and high weight, and that means shipping is prohibitive - and yeah, you pay for shipping one way or the other.  Price-check both local big-box stores and 2-3 local Electrical Supply Houses; big-box usually tries to be lowest on endcap high-mover items like 14/2 cable, but on most other things, a good electrical supply is the best price.  I just stopped buying at Home Depot after finding they are too expensive on most things.  Keep in mind not every Electrical Supply is actually an Eaton dealer.

All that said, the only breaker type listed or classified for your panel is Eaton Type BR (which is cross-listed Type C).  Eaton keeps prices low, which is why there are no classified options.  You're looking at $4.50 a breaker, unless you get up into AFCI or GFCI.

You have one CAFCI (Combination Arc Fault Circuit Interruptor) breaker in there right now.  A CAFCI means it looks for two types of arc faults: series (bad connection) and shorting (wire sparking to ground). The latter provides a weak GFCI protection - too weak for human safety.  I assume the choice of  CAFCI for a jacuzzi was made by the same mouth-breather who specced all those alien breakers.  That's OK, it can be moved to a bedroom.

For places likely to be wet, dual-mode AFCI+GFCI breakers are ideal, so they confer GFCI protection to the wiring as well as the appliances.  However for receptacles that have no risk of being inundated with water, it's perfectly fine to use an AFCI-only breaker like that one, and then a GFCI receptacle at the first outlet, feeding the rest of the circuit from its LOAD terminals.

However, it's full.

Well, I see a few breakers that seem to go to nothing. I also see a whole-house surge suppressor that could easily be combined with something else on a 30A breaker, the A/C at the top right would be an ideal candidate since its position and sizing are correct.

So before you run out of space for normal sized breakers (note GFCI/AFCI don't come in double-stuff), start thinking about where a subpanel would make sense.  BR, of course, unless you want a generator interlock on that subpanel, then Siemens/Murray because they make a suitable $23 interlock kit (Eaton doesn't, and can't use QP breakers in BR).  One thing we learned about generator interlocks is you really, really want GFCI and AFCI breakers to be after the interlock.


Basement cinder block looks damp after rain storms

You can see from the second picture that the water originates at ground level.  It permeates into the hollow cores and then follows the cores down.

It could be a grading problem, where the soil doesn't slope enough away from the house (initial settlement of the backfill), and/or downspouts that discharge too close to the house.

Make sure the rain gutter system isn't clogged and use downspout extensions to discharge the water 10' away from the foundation.

The backfill settles, so you may have to improve the grade for the first 6 to 10 feet around the foundation.  Put heavy plastic sheeting against the foundation up to the height that additional fill will be added, and extending over the current soil going out 6-8 feet.  Then put new soil on top of it to create a good grade away from the house.


How do I replace 4 GFCI receptacles on the same circuit?

This configuration is a bit odd.  The reason why a GFCI outlet has a line and load side is that a single GFCI outlet can offer GFCI protection to any downstream outlets (load).

If I were in your situation, I would install a new GFCI outlet in the first location, and then new standard outlets (your region might require tamper-resistant outlets) in all the downstream locations.  This should make troubleshooting simpler, plus you only have 1 GFCI to deal with.

Alternatively, if you do wish to install a GFCI in each location, they should not be wired to the previous outlets load side, rather they should be wired in parallel like standard outlets (either a pig-tail or using the second screw on the same side of the outlet).

If after correcting the installation it is still tripping, then you have a current leak somewhere.  A GFCI compares the current on hot and the current on neutral, and if the two are different by a certain threshold, the breaker trips.  It could be a device plugged in somewhere else on the circuit, a nicked wire, etc.  Start by unplugging everything on the breaker.  Plug something into the GFCI outlet - it shouldn't trip, if it does, it's a wiring problem or the outlet itself is bad (if you just replaced it, this shouldn't be the case).  One-by-one, start plugging in other devices upstream and downstream of the outlet. When/if it trips, you have found your problematic device or outlet.


How do I replace the bulb in this enclosed bathroom ceiling light?

These fixtures usually have a "bayonet" mount, requiring a partial turn, perhaps just a few degrees, and then pulling straight down on the plastic cover. After years, it may require a wiggle or two to break it loose.


How to open this fluorescent light fixture?

On the fixtures like this I have repaired the bezel comes out. Pressing on the bezel down flex in then pull out , did that make sense ?
There are normally 2 clips evenly spaced from the end, normally on the short side of the bezel or plastic lamp cover a light pressure to flex the plastic towards the fixture push like you are putting it on (not all need this but some won’t release with the removal of tension) then while still pressing pull out.  I hope I explained it better. These fixtures are very common most often in a 24” model but I have seen 48” ones. The lamp is normally a standard T8 or t12 bulb I would guess at A T8 and they do go bad.

If you go to a big box store they will probably have one as these are common but today they may have an led lamp. Ask to look at it and to look at the bulb or what type of bulb you need to purchase.


I'm betting that whomever installed it last used an adhesive to secure and seal the toilet to the closet flange and/or the floor. It sounds as if you are renovating so unless the toilet has value (or fond memories) break it out with long handled sledge hammers (use eye protection). The time saved by not solving a mad scientist monstrosity might be worth the cost of a mid-priced new toilet.


Are uninsulated steam pipes behind walls and touching beams a fire hazard?

Do you know the temperature of steam pipes? Do you know the ignition point of wood?

Some say the "ignition" point of wood is 451 deg F. Most say around 570 deg F. Either way, the surface temperature of steam pipes will NEVER even get close to that. Typically upwards of 250 deg F. I think you can trust your plumber on this one.


Install an occupancy sensor, old switch has 3 black wires

WARNING: This procedure requires working on live wiring. If you're not comfortable with that, contact a local licensed Electrician.

Turn the light switch off, then use a multimeter/voltmeter to check for voltage between the ground and the terminals on the switch. One terminal will read line voltage (120 volts), while the other should read 0 volts.

Once you know what's what, turn off power to the circuit and verify that it's off.

The terminal that reads line voltage, is the line side terminal.  If that's the terminal with one wire, attach the single wire to the black wire of the new switch. If it's the terminal with two wires, attach both of those wires to the black wire of the new switch.

Attach the wire(s) from the other terminal (the 0 volt terminal), to the red (load) wire of the new switch.

Connect the white wire from the new switch, in with the other white wires in the box. Connect the green wire from the new switch, in with the other grounds in the box.

Use twist-on wire connectors, or other approved means to make the connections. Make sure you use connectors rated for the number, and size of wires you're connecting.


Running 6/2 cable to garage for NEMA 6-50 outlet

In turn here:

For your case b), conduit is not required -- NM is routinely run through bored holes in structural members without conduit.
For d), again, conduit is not required -- you can get away without guards if you run the cable along the side of the joist and at least 1.25" away from its edges. (320.23(B) and 300.4(D))
As to your protective runs in c) and e) -- 3/4" Schedule 80 PVC conduit has 138mm^2 of usable room in it for a single cable or conductor, and a 6/2 W/G NM-B cable, according to your specs, takes up only 70mm^2, so you have ample space.  This might be a tight pull, though, so you may wish to go with 1" instead.
There are two other things you need to address with your conduit runs:

The conduit you linked is Schedule 40, which isn't sturdy enough to protect wires from physical damage -- the code requires the thicker, sturdier Schedule 80 instead.
Make sure to put expansion fittings in your PVC runs lest they do the snake on you mid-summer, or pull apart mid-winter!  Easy rule of thumb for conduit that is operating within oh, 24degC of room temp -- put them in every 4m/12'.  (You might be able to get away without it for isolated runs like yours provided the supports are set up so they don't provide excessive longitudinal restraint to the conduit.)


Attaching video doorbell to stucco over rigid foam insulation

It would be important to find out if the entire column is rigid foam, or if it has a wood/steel/concrete/plastic core. If it has a core, you can use whatever type of fastener is ideal for that material (and long enough to penetrate the foam layer).
If it is truly rigid foam all the way through, you might consider drilling a hole and then using a molly fastener which when engaged would push hard outward from the hole against the rigid foam. Some kind of slow-drying glue or epoxy may help enhance that effect.
Otherwise, you're probably looking at some other kind of preparation. If you can engage a block of wood large enough (2x4 or 1x4) to mount the doorbell bracket, you may be able to embed it with glue and repair the stucco around it so it looks somewhat natural.


Is Nonmetallic Sheathed Cable Safe to Touch?

Yes, it is safe to touch the insulating jacket of an undamaged NM cable.

However, in the state of California, it may cause cancer to lick the cables.


The green light typically indicates that a GFCI receptacle is working properly. You can press the TEST button and the green light should go off, and then go back to green when you press RESET. But the GFCI function is electrical, not mechanical, so it has no effect on being able to push a plug into the socket.

If you have a TAMPER RESISTANT receptacle then it is designed so that you can only use it by pushing the prongs of the plug in at the same time and straight in. The mechanism to do this is mechanical and springs that control it can break or a piece of the shutter can get moved out of place or stuck. Those types of problems are often technically fixable, but probably not worth the effort.

If you do NOT have a tamper resistant receptacle and you can't plug something in then I would consider it broken beyond repair as that is simply not a normal situation. Something got bent out of shape or stuck and messing it with it is not worth the risk. 120V can kill quite easily. The GFCI will protect against current passing through a person, but it won't protect against a physical malfunction that could result in a fire.


Understanding how to read bevel cuts in woodworking plan?

Hope this helps

The easiest way to find/cut the angle is with a speed square.
Here is how to use the speed square to layout an angle:
How to Set an Angle with a Speed Square


What's special about ceiling paint that makes it particularly suitable for ceilings?

Ceilings are typically painted with a flat sheen paint, as it's good at hiding (or at least not highlighting) imperfections, nor does it need to be particularly durable. Those two qualities tend to lead to a less expensive paint, and if you can save money where you can, why not. If you've already got some leftover (non-glossy) paint, there's no real reason not to use it. I wouldn't use gloss or semi-gloss on the ceiling, but eggshell should be OK.


Should I install an inline water heater for my bathroom?

If you lag the hot water pipes you can help reduce the time it takes for the water to heat up as the water in the pipes will stay warmer for longer. Obviously this won't help first thing in the morning when the water's cold.

Installing a heater is certainly an option as it will reduce the 3-4 minute "lead time" - especially if you site it as near to the shower as possible. However you have to consider the following:

Is the cost of installing and running the heater less than the cost of heating the water that remains in the pipes and left to go cold.
If you pay for the amount of water you use then will the reduction in your water bill pay for the heater?
Can your shower be connected to an instant hot water feed? If you have a pumped shower then you probably can't do this.


You said, "The warranty is almost up." First, I'd get their contractor's license number (CCB number) and notify your state's Construction Contractors Board. (If they won't give it to you or you can't find it, call your local building code office.) The CCB can help you file a claim against the contractor and attach his bond, if necessary. They've had at least one chance to fix the problem and I'm not sure you want them back to try again and again... (By the way, that feeble attempt to fix the problem by caulking the interior face of the framing, is also warranted. So, technically, you have a warranty period for that work too, but I'd make sure all the paperwork was turned in before the original warranty expires.) Also, you need "the repair" fixed now too, because they have created a moisture problem by trapping moisture in the wall (between the sill plates) which will lead to mold and dryrot.

Now the leak: 1) water on concrete mudsill means water is either splashing UP from surface water on exterior, or running DOWN from the window. I doubt if it's splashing up, because the leak occurs at just the window location. If water was splashing up, you'd see wet spots all along the mudsill. 2) water seems pretty evenly distributed under the window...maybe even a little more in the middle of the sill. Usually, when water gets in at the head or jambs, we find water has run down the jambs and is concentrated at the bottom of the jambs on each side of the window. 3) windows are made with grooves along the sill for window panels to slide in. These grooves have "weep holes" that allow water to escape. If the weeps are plugged (or damaged) the sill could leak. OR, if the contractor screwed or nailed down through the vinyl window sill it could leak around the screw hole. Also, there are "stops" (small notches) cut into the window frame that allow the sliding pane to lock into a partial open position. If that notch is cut wrong, water could leak through the frame. Also, check the window frame joint where the jamb meets the sill. It is suppose to be "welded" closed, but sometimes the window is dropped and it could crack loose. You're looking for a "hairline" crack.

I recommend you do a water test. Turn your water hose on and hold it in one place for about 10-15 minutes. See if it leaks, if not, move to a new spot. Start with bottom and work up. So, start with sill, then center of fixed pane, then center of sliding pane, then jambs, then head. (Just because some siding is removed doesn't mean you can't do the hose test.)

So here's some bad news...if this window leaks, others probably do too.  Just because you don't have water running down the inside of your house under other windows don't mean they aren't leaking. Is there another window with the same wind exposure that you could "pop" the interior sill trim off and check for moisture?

By the way, why did he caulk between all the sill plates? Was there water coming out from between each sill plate, or did he return on a sunny day and didn't see any standing water so he tried to seal everything?


As always, the answer is 'it depends' and 'do a proper load calc'.

It will depend on how large a unit you're installing, but I wouldn't expect to have issues, especially as you'd be removing existing aircon and (presumably electric) heating. The new unit would likely be significantly more efficient.


Normal use of neutrals/ground.
Line @ front door, re-task red to traveler.
Red as traveler in downstairs 1-gang. Tie both blacks together as "load" from main box.
Red as traveler in upstairs 2-gang. Tie both blacks together as "load" from main box.

Shout out to @hHarper - Reinstate Monica and @ThreePhaseEel for the assistance.


Pitting / bleach staining on bathroom taps

That Looks like lime scale or soap scum. try white vinegar, or a similar proprietary lime remover.


Better screws to mount shelving standards

The factory screws look like #10 sheet metal screws with a flat head, just eyeballing it.  You will want screws the same size so that the head fits just-right in the hole, too big and they won't sit flush.  Sheet metal screws will be stronger than drywall screws, but wood screws or construction screws will be stronger than sheet metal screws.


It looks like you have an issue with the mixing valve which looks like this -

More specifically it is probably due to an issue in the cartridge which is the front part of the mixing valve and is usually a white plastic cylinder that look like this -

These are in the wall right behind the shower handle.   It is likely that something is either jammed up (sediment) or broken in the cartridge.   If you open things up and take pictures we can help more.


Cleaning grout under caulk line (between tile and tub) before re-caulking?

There isn't anything wrong with grouting between tub and tile given that you do it right.  I fill up tub full of water (weight) and grout.  I feel grout is just easier to deal with.  My grout has lasted 6-7 years now in one bathroom without any sort of cracking or separation.  If there was separation I would caulk it.

It does get mildew and mold and I probably spray it with cleaner once every 4-5 months.   That is about it.

From what I can tell from your pictures, that doesn't seem like grout.  And if it was grouted it was done very poorly.  That looks like a mastic or even a white thinset to me.  And then caulked over.  It also looks like too big of an area to caulk.  I would suggest trying to break out some of that area and then going over it with grout.  (Also it looks like crappy caulk.  I would use silicone here)


Grounding subpanels located ~100ft from main breaker

After calling my city's building inspectors, I was told the buried EMT can serve as the grounding conductor between a main breaker panel and a subpanel if the conduit also uses grounding strap fittings to bond the conduit directly to a busbar. The panel knockout to conduit/locknut physical contact is not sufficient.


Why does hot water only run for 30 seconds in bathtub?

You are pretty hardy if you can take a cold shower in NY in the winter or spring . . . or even summer. We have the exact same old fashioned tub/shower with old Price Pfister separate hot and cold valves with a diverter in the wall on a line between the hot and cold handles. I have taken this type of tub/shower valve apart and they are pretty simple. I do not see how any problem with the diverter could cause cold water to come from the hot water line. What do you get if you turn on the cold water valve and leave the hot valve shut?

Are the cold and hot pipes connected by an anti-scald device?

Some models of anti-scald mixing valve are designed to be placed at the output of the boiler, but others could be just upstream of the shower. The fact that the lavatory delivers hot water continuously as expected but the shower does not, could be due to the presence of a hidden mixing valve in the wall behind the shower. The scenario would be that the hot water is so hot that it drives the valve to the cold stop.

Try turning on the shower cold water valve first to a moderate or high flow and then metering in increasingly larger amounts of hot water to get to warm. Maybe a relatively high flow rate of cold water from the beginning will prevent the thermostatic mixing valve (if there is one) from being over heated and over driven to the cold stop.


Mount glass shower wall with adhesive to avoid drilling holes in the bathroom tiles

Thank you for the answers guys but I actually asked the manufacturer if they have any suggestions and they came with the best solution ever :D

Apparently there is a kit available. I am not sure how one would search for this as the manufacturer sells this "glue kit" especially for this type of situations. I am not sure if this is something you can find anywhere but for reference here is the actual product.

I have not mounted it yet but once it arrives and I do the work I will try to provide more details about it.