how can I clean my linseed treated wooden doors?

Removing linseed oil from wood doors is not a difficult process. Simply apply turpentine to the doors with a rag in a circular motion until the linseed oil starts to dissolve. Let the turpentine sit for 10 to 20 minutes. then wash them down with warm, soapy water.


If your plywood floor is in good condition, I would drive screws to securely attach it to your floor beams.  When I did my floor, I saw they were attached with nails which was not ideal even though I had no squeeky issue.


My gas water heater's T&P relief valve is leaking. Can I safely close the heater's supply valve & leave the gas on?

It's likely best to turn off both the water and gas supply. Risking running your water heater dry is not worth it.


Can I check the wattage / amps of a pair of light fixtures using a multimeter

It sounds as if you want to measure wattage/amps of mains-powered lamps, which are probably powered from an AC source. Unfortunately the meter you mentioned cannot measure AC current; it does DC only.
Most (all?) lamps should be labeled as to their wattage. On the old incandescent bulbs it was printed right on the glass. Newer CFL and LED bulbs often have the wattage printed on the bulb base. If you can find the wattage marked on the lamps then you can add the wattages of all the lamps to figure the total load.


Ants are constantly seeking food and water to maintain the colony. When an ant locates either in your house it lays down a scent trail with pheromes that the rest of the worker ants use as a freeway into your home. The ideal way to ensure they never invade your home again is to wipe out the Queen and the worker ants. This is accomplished by tracing the ant trail back to the entrance tunnel. Next you set an ant bait along the ant trail. Some brand names are "Grants Ant Stakes" and "Raids Ant Blocks". These baits entice the ants to ingest the 'food' not realizing it is a poison. The ants, not reading the FDA's warning labels on the ant bait package, transport bits of the tainted food back to the nest to feed their fellow ant's. Eventually the toxic food is consumed by the Queen and most of the colony which ultimately collapses. I've used with great success glass cleaner to eradicate on contact scout ants and marching workers. It doesn't contain petroleum or harsh chemicals that are found in insecticidal sprays.


Residences have two 120 lines coming into the main box, for a total of 240Volts. Obviously something is wrong with with one of the lines, or even the neutral. You can make some voltage checks on the lines if you have a meter, to see if there is partial voltage on the outlets that aren't working(bad neutral). You can also check the main box, but realize you are dealing with 240Volts. If you have any 240V dryer outlets you can check those too if you have an AC meter.

Beyond inspecting the main box for anything obvious(loose screw terminals, etc), it is probably time to bite the bullet and call an electrician. Be sure to turn off the master breaker if you play with the panel. The main terminal where the wire comes in will always have voltage, so be careful.


Most sewage ejection pumps have two cords.  One is the power for the motor.  The other goes to the float switch.  The power cord is a regular plug.  The float switch cord has a plug on the end with female on one side and male on the other.  The power's plug is inserted into the female side of the float switch plug.  The male side of the float plug is then inserted into an electrical outlet.  When the water level trips the float, the float's plug "opens" to give power to the motor's cord.  If you want to test the pump manually, find the outlet the cords are plugged into, unplug the motor's plug from the float's and insert the motor's plug directly into the outlet, bypassing the float.  When you're satisfied, insert the motor's plug back into the float plug and insert the float plug back into the electrical outlet.


Should I tape/support drywall seam next to cabinet?

It's unfortunate that you didn't leave a bit of drywall below the cabinet. If you had, you could then either tape the new to the existing or float backing behind the joint, screwing through the upper and lower panels.

As it is, this is entirely a matter of opinion. Do you need backing? No. Your wall will not fall apart without it. However, it'll be much less rigid at the top edge, potentially allowing for problems with your tile. Movement cracks grout (and potentially the tile itself). If anything presses firmly or bumps between studs, damage could occur.

So the question becomes about how can you put backing in there without undue destruction of your vapor barrier and degradation of your insulation, should you deem it important. I don't have any brilliant ideas aside from toenailing one-by lumber in place behind the poly.

You could also use a rigid enough backer to avoid the whole issue. 5/8" plywood or 1/2" cement board might do the job.


New plaster over top of exposed horsehair plaster in Bathroom

Yep, you can plaster right onto everything. The Horsehair is in what's called the Brown Coat. The Brown Coat makes up almost all of the depth with the plaster just being the very minor finish. It's all quite moisture resistant too, like the rest below (no drywall can be trusted).

So, while the Brown coat's still moist where it meets the old plaster face, you'll need to scrape that down at the seam to leave room for the plaster. The Brown Coat stuff is cheap and leaving it low for more plaster is perfectly fine.

Though, for such a small room, I think you'd do much better by Tapconing (masonry screws) or Thin-Setting (Tiling compound) Cement-board (readily available in 1/4" thickness) to either fully bare walls or 2 Thin-setted layers of Cement-board where the wainscoting was.


Can I split a 120v outlet off a 240v air conditioner circuit?

No. The National Electrical Code does not allow line to neutral loads on a 240 volt line.

Besides that the line to the air conditioner will not have a neutral for the 120 volt line anyway. If you cheat and use the equipment ground that is another very dangerous code violation.

Just run a new wire. It is not worth you and your family's safety to save a few dollars.

Good luck and stay safe!


Can I put an Ethernet port in my brick wall?

Two issues - cable and port.
Cable through brick wall
If one end is on one side of a brick wall and the other end is on the other side of the brick wall, drill a hole with a hammer drill and a masonry bit and fish the wire through. A brick wall could be just a couple of layers of brick but often has cinderblock or (as I found when I replaced my oven years ago) all kinds of stone, concrete and junk inside. Ideally you want a bit long enough to go all the way through everything in one shot. Not an easy job, but usually not too hard with a decent drill and bit.
Cable on surface of brick wall
If you can't easily go through the wall, or you need to run the cable a distance along the wall for other reasons (e.g., the router is 20 feet down the wall on the same side) then use a surface raceway. Basically, a plastic or metal rectangular tube that you mount on the wall and stick the wire inside. Some people don't like the look, but running cable inside a brick wall is not practical so it is either on the surface in a raceway (better than just leaving the wire loose) or through to the other side. If you have a baseboard or molding on the bottom of the wall then you can, depending on the details, either mount a raceway to the baseboard/molding easier than mounting to the brick, or staple the cable directly to the baseboard/molding.
Depending on the type of wall (interior vs. exterior) and where you need to run the cable, and what is underneath the floor, you may be able to drill down through the floor instead and run the cable through the room or crawlspace underneath. However, that is sometimes tricky too depending on the ceiling of the lower level.
Port
Surface mount the port. Do NOT try to cut a hole for a box into the brick - it can be done but is absolutely not worth the effort. You can either use a standard box designed for mounting on the wall and put a regular Ethernet wall plate on the box, or use a smaller surface mount port. A standard box has the advantage of allowing for 2 or more ports - easily up to 6, for additional Ethernet or phone or cable TV.


How To Stop A Leak In A Refrigerator Water Line

There a countless ways that the fridge line could have been installed. A photo of under the sink would greatly help, in particular showing the connection to the water supply.

Can you see where the fridge line connects to the water supply? Is it connected to the same supply that feeds the sink? If so, even with the isolation valves shut under the sink, there will still be pressure in the fridge line. If you open the sink's faucet, you can confirm that water is off, additionally this will relieve the pressure in the fridge's line.

Sometimes a small valve is installed on the fridge line under the sink. It could have been bumped open.

You'll need to determine how it is connected before you can fix it.


Trial and error to choose glue for plastic handle on refrigerator?

A "decent surface area" would lead me to drill and pin it using some metal dowels as well as using glue.

That should help spread the stress caused by using it and make the repair last longer.


How do I uninstall a velux blackout blind?

Adding an update to Peter Mounce's answer from: https://zebbakes.com/2011/06/21/how-to-uninstall-a-velux-black-out-blind/

The Mr McDonald method at the end worked for me in a couple of seconds, and doesn't have the crazy screwdriver involvement.
The quote is:

  spoke with a very helpful chap at Velux (UK) and removed the blind quite easily. Method was this: 1) With the blind retracted fully, grasp the casing firmly at each end with your fingers at the back (between casing and glass) and thumbs on the front. 2) Now twist/rotate the case up and out (as if twisting case toward top of window frame) and listen for the ‘click’ of the catches releasing both sides. 3) When both catches released – blind should slide forward and out! Tried it and it worked a treat! Obviously no guarantee but was reassured by Velux that if the clips should break on attempting removal that they can supply a new set of brackets for re-installation.


Door open lightswitch for sliding closet doors

From a functional point of view, you want the two switches in parallel, normally-closed but held open when the door is in its closed position, so that if either door is open the switch closes and the light comes on. The switches may control the light directly or, if they are low-voltage switches, may control a relay which controls the light. (If you're using a relay, you can also potentially substitute a pair of normally-open switches in series; just use the inverted relay output.)

Mechanically... The switches I'd normally think of for this purpose either wouldn't be reliable or wouldn't be pretty. The best thought I've got is a low-voltage circuit, using alarm-style reed switches. These would involve switches mounted on the door frame with magnets mounted on the door edge nearest the frame. When the magnet is close enough, it pulls the reed in the switch out of its "normal" position. The advantage of these is that the magnets will tolerate a bit of gap rather than having to come directly in contact with the switches; how much gap depends on exactly which switch/magnet set you buy.

I could make it work... initially. Keeping it working, given how notorious these doors are for going out of alignment and slipping off their tracks, might be another matter.


How do I determine which outlets are on the same circuit without power?

I'd use one of these - a tone tracer. They're mainly used by telecoms engineers to trace pairs in large multipair cables and junction boxes but they'll do just as well for this application.

Though why you don't want to pay for electricity before you move in beats me. Surely you can get a plan where you just pay for what you actually use?

I'd have to advise against doing electrical work on the cheap though, it rarely ends well.


Pros and cons of pouring detergent directly onto clothes vs. into detergent dispenser?

You almost certainly will stain the clothes if you do that. Concentrated detergent is very caustic, and you shouldn't put it on clothes directly. However, what you can do in place of the dispenser if you don't have a door safety switch, is pour the detergent into the cap and hold it under the water during the fill cycle.  By doing this, you dilute the detergent as intended.


Hose left on outside faucet over winter with no nozzle, should I replace the faucet before turning it on?

The question I would ask is, was the shutoff value in the basement off? If the valve in the basement is shutoff it does not matter if the hose had a nozzle or not. I do not know where you are located, but if the temperature is above 45, turn it on slowly and see if it leaks, but if the shutoff valve was turned off, I think you are in good shape.


The wood doesn't have holes

So I'd use something like a bradawl to mark the positions then drill a pilot hole if necessary (depends on wood, position of hole, diameter of screw etc)

See How can I drill to an exact depth with a hand drill?

  and I don't want the screw to go completely through the wood.

That's just a matter of buying the right sized screw.


What size wire and conduit do I need to run to a subpanel in a garage?

If you plan on replacing the 50 Amp breaker with a 100 Amp...

The minimum sized conductor is #3 THHN copper which includes the 2 hot legs and one neutral.
The minimum sized grounding conductor is #8 THHN insulated copper.
The minimum sized grounding electrode conductor (for ground rod) is #8 bare copper.
The minimum size conduit would be 1 1/2" using PVC schedule 80.

If you plan on keeping the 50 Amp breaker...

The minimum sized conductor is #8 THHN copper which includes the 2 hot legs and one neutral.
The minimum sized grounding conductor is #10 THHN insulated copper.
The minimum sized grounding electrode conductor (for ground rod) is #8 bare copper.
The minimum size conduit would be 1" using PVC schedule 80.

Notes

The above figures are based on a detached garage @ 100' or less distanced from the garage to the houses main panel. An additional ground rod is required for detached garages.  If the garage is not detached then an additional ground rod is not required.
If detached, the subpanel would require its own main breaker and the grounds and neutrals would need to be separated. Otherwise a main lug subpanel is fine but still need to separate the grounds from the neutrals.
The above examples are based off the National Electrical Code 2014.  Your jurisdiction may have other requirements.

References

Table 310.15(B)(16) Allowable Ampacities of Insulated Conductors.
Table 250.122 Minimum Sized Equipment Grounding Conductor.
Table 250.102 (C)(1) Main Bonding Jumper
Table C9 Conduit fill.


Converting existing 3-way switches to smart switches

Based on the diagram (with yellow => white), it looks pretty straightforward, but actual pictures instead of drawings would confirm the details:
Box A:

Cable 1 = 3-way. Red & Black = travelers. White = switched hot.
Cable 2 = Light fixture. Red = switched hot. Black = always hot for use in other stuff past the light fixture. White = neutral.
Cable 3 = Incoming power. Black = hot. White = neutral.
Cable 4 = Outside light. Black = switched hot. White = neutral.

Box B:

Red & Black = travelers. White = switched hot.

For your smart switch, install it in Box A. You will probably need a neutral - just add it to the bunch of existing neutrals.


What equipment is needed to drill into high carbon steel?

Drilling metal is not a hard problem, but it requires a little more finesse.  When you get your tools, feeds and speeds dialed in just right, it cuts like a dream. But do it ham-handed, and you can work-harden the steel. No fun!

They make combo bits for wood and steel meant for power drilling.  A drill bit intended for wood will not work. A drill bit will tend to be rough to control; it won't cut clean or neat.  Normally you punch holes in metal with a drill press or punch, e.g. a floor mounted Rotex or turret punch.

Doing it with hand tools is a challenge.  Your best bet is a punch, especially since you've already got a hole there.  Here's one punch for instance.  Drill a pilot hole, assemble it, tighten the bolt, and it cuts the hole. This particular one is for ~20mm holes, but they make them in many sizes.

If you can get a power drill, I would use a step drill bit to expand an existing hole.


is it safe to use a microwave with the outside glass missing?

DANGER, WILL ROBINSON
The glass doesn't stop the microwaves. The mesh does.
However, without that glass in place, the chance of something else going wrong - e.g., that foil coming off or some other part coming loose, is drastically increased.
As far as replacing with plastic, I definitely don't recommend it. I'm not against plastic for certain repairs - e.g., quick fix for a broken taillight cover. But for a microwave oven door where the risks are really high if something goes wrong, absolutely not.
This falls into the "what you don't know can really hurt you" category. Unlike a conventional oven (just "heat", which you can feel as it melts the plastic you put in there, producing toxic fumes, etc.), with a microwave oven you could undergo serious bodily injury and not know it is happening until it is too late.
No. Just no.


Yes, most likely a rough-in for a future bathroom. Based on the distances from the walls, the leftmost one is for a shower, middle is for a sink, and right would be a toilet.


Running non-metallic cable to an outdoor fixture

Running the NM cable at all outdoors would have me concerned about capillary action wicking moisture upcable and back inside, leading to premature failure of the NM.  I'd use a short length of /2 UF from an accessible box on the inside through the wall and then directly into a J-box on the outside for the GFCI.  You can then run UF through the nipple that connects the weatherproof J-box to the fixture in question.

Don't forget the "while in use" cover on the GFCI-box, and to make sure that there's a 1/8" drain hole in the bottom of that box.  (Elbowing up a conduit directly to the fixture from the inside isn't the greatest idea because then you have raceway arranged to drain...to the inside of your house. Oops!)


I would use drywall compound and fill in between the wall and the duct. And then I would tape using a UL181 tape (I like foil mastic) over the inside edge of the duct and the wall. Apply the tape flat and rub it smooth. The tape will be covered by the register.

Using UL181 tape to seal the duct to the ceiling membrane really should be standard.


Is a Heat pump / AC unit considered more or less effecient in hot states?

Warm climates are good candidates for heat pumps.

Heat pumps have more efficiency in heating mode when the ambient temperature is warmer, less efficiency when the ambient temperature is colder.

If the outside temp falls too low, the heat pump stops providing useful heat. This is why heat pumps are often supplemented by "emergency" electric heaters that kick in when the outside temp falls too low.

Heat pumps can be more efficient than electric resistance heaters because they only need to move heat energy around, rather than create heat. When the outside temp falls too low, however, it takes more energy to move around the very small amount of available outside heat than it would to just create the heat with an electrical resistance heater.

According to wikipedia:

  This typically occurs around −18 °C (0 °F) outdoor temperature for air
  source heat pumps. Also, as the heat pump takes heat out of the air,
  some moisture in the outdoor air may condense and possibly freeze on
  the outdoor heat exchanger. The system must periodically melt this
  ice. When it is extremely cold outside, it is simpler, and wears the
  machine less, to heat using an electric-resistance heater rather than
  to overload an air-source heat pump.


Will high efficiency furnace plumbing lead to cold air entering the house?

These vents are for a high efficiency furnace. One brings in fresh air for combustion, the other exhausts air after combustion. It's separate from the air you breath in your home, hence the high efficiency part. The biggest concerns with these are venting exhaust too close to a window, and having the exhaust sucked back into the intake, but this shouldn't be a problem with a properly installed system. There's no need to modify or cover these vents, doing so can damage your furnace.


Can I install windows into a concrete rough opening without wood buck?

Just get replacement windows instead of new construction and use tapcons to fasten the windows through the sides. Caulk outside good to keep out water. Foundation should also be graded away from the window to keep out water.


Drew there are panels that will do exactly what you want. They use the existing wiring and have a limited number of circuits. These manual transfer of 1/2 dozen or more circuits is really expensive. See generac, reliance 6 circuit transfer switches.
These systems cost in the range of 350.00-450.00 I have seen them used with a 2kw generator.
Old school lightbulbs that is 200 not just 1.
The house I am thinking of ran there gas furnace.
Lighting they needed and refrigerator.
When they wanted to run the well they turned off the refrigerator circuit and turned on the well pump.
So it can be done even using your existing wiring. I would suggest a generator interlock kit this locks out your main breaker while turning on the breaker to feed the home from another source whatever it is.
You turn off all the circuit breakers you don’t need or cannot power with the new source. A lot cheaper and works similarly for under 100$.


StackExchange is not for product recommendations.   However, any of the simple, mechanical $13 "mains wiring" 240V type thermostats should suffice, and a 1-pole unit will suffice.   (On 2-pole, only one one pole is switched thermostatically, the other is simply an off switch.   They mount in a standard junction box.

Do not use an incandescent bulb when you want a heater, it is cruel: incandescents burn out randomly and then the poor creature suffers until you notice to replace it. Use a heater.  Catalogs like McMaster-Carr and Grainger sell lots and lots of heating components.

You can either use a 120V heater of your desired wattage, or a 240V heater of four times the wattage.  For instance if you want 50W and you see a heater that is perfect except for being 240V and 200W, that will do exactly what you want: draw 50W if you connect it to 120V.


I have seen these at Home Depot and a few other home stores. They are not cheap, about $10. I would be more concerned about why your fuses are blowing. Are the circuits overloaded? You need to determine that first. Don't even think about increasing the fuse/breaker size until you or someone else checks the wire size for the circuits. Just get a few boxes of the standard fuses and don't complicate things.


Building home on slab foundation on lot above natural spring

Before the home was built, there should have been site and soil surveys done.  The builder use the results of this surveys, to determine how to properly construct the foundation for the building. Assuming these surveys were done, and the engineer designed an appropriate foundation. There should be no danger to the structure.

However, if the water was not taken into consideration, then it could pose a risk to the home.

You should verify that all the proper planning was done, and that the water was considered in the building planning.


Either because your dimmer is not rated for LEDs or your bulbs have a defect.

You have to understand that each LED now has in essence its own motherboard that controls how the LED bulbs are functioning, the dimmable ones being much more complex.  A lot manufacturers are still on their first generation of dimmables too.  They just aren't "programmed" to be used for all instances.  Whether it be the output the dimmer is giving, the way it gives it, other interference on the circuit, and so on.  Very good friend of mine manages at Lowe's and said that by far the #1 return in their store is dimmable LEDs.

So what can you do?

Make sure that your dimmer is rated for LEDs.
adjust the dimming settings on your dimmer
Try a different brand of LEDs.
Try a different style
Try a different wattage

I have track lighting above my stairs leading to basement.  Took me 4 different LED bulbs to find one that would appropriate dim without issues.  One never really dimmed (maybe got to 60-70%), one blinked like yours, and the other one only came on when the dimmer was turned at least halfway up - and when you got to 90% on the dimmer they turned off.

I would say that in almost all of these cases there is nothing wrong with your setup it is just that the technology isn't ready for the new energy consumption regulations.  Dimming bulbs became very en vogue 15-20 years ago to save energy.  Some states required dimmers for incandescent outlets...  When LEDs first came out the manufacturers weren't worried about dimmers/energy savings since their bulbs would beat out the most dimmed incandescent.


Adding an outlet in a water heater closet

For a load so small as < 50 watts, I wouldn't worry about what circuit I was adding it to.  I'd recommend using the closest one easily accessible.

Before spending the money to buy a GFCI outlet, I'd check to see if the location I'm tapping into was already GFCI protected.  There are GFCI testers out there, and I'd recommend using one if you have one.  If not, use a small incandescent lamp that you can switch on and off without touching any metalwork of the lamp; and a discarded grounded (3-prong) plug.  Turn the lamp off and temporarily connect the two prongs of the lamp to the ground and hot wires of the 3-prong plug.

Plug it in to the source outlet and briefly turn it on and off.  That will safely trip its GFCI protection if it has GFCI protection.  Probably quickly enough that you won't even see the lamp light up.  If the lamp lights up, then your source isn't gfci protected and it's worth the money to use a GFCI outlet.  I'd recommend adding that outlet in a position as near the circuit breaker panel as possible to get the best utilization of it though.  So replace the most upstream outlet and use the one you pulled out of the wall, in the new location.

Put the outlet at a height that is convenient and accessible.  The risk with a gas leak is if there is a spark and that spark occurs in an area of atmosphere with the proper mixture of gas and oxygen for ignition.  A plug in an outlet is't going to make sparks just sitting there.  It's only a risk when plugging and unplugging.


When doing the work did someone stick a rag in the drain to stop the gases from coming out? This is very common. Maybe it or a tool or debris got into the drain and stuck, maybe at the trap, maybe at a bend, and when you plunge the drain it is moved enough to drain the water but then settles back into place. Try snaking your drain to see if there is something in there


My light switch trips the breaker when its placed into the box

Sounds like you have skinned a hot wire that is touching the metal box or one of the ground wires. With the power off pull the switches and look for a burned spot. If the wire is still ok not damaged from shorting it can be taped with a quality electrical tape. If the wire is damaged you will want to cut it and pigtail a new piece. This happens even to professionals.


How to attach light with two ground wires to fixture with one ground wire?

Connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire on the lamp. Secure it with a wire nut sized for two conductors.
Connect the black wire from the ceiling to the black wire on the lamp. Secure it with a wire nut sized for two conductors.
Connect all the other wires to the green screw on the mounting plate. Use a pigtail construction with a wire nut sized for four conductors.
To make a pigtail, cut an extra piece of wire about six inches long and connect one end of it to the green screw. Wrap the end clockwise around the screw - in the direction that the screw tightens - so that when you clamp down on it with the screw it will be pulled in instead of being squished out.
This hookup wire can be insulated or bare (if insulated it should be green or green/yellow striped). The bare wire on the lamp is ridiculously long so you can cut it in half and use the excess as the hookup wire.
You now have four ground wires: one bare wire from the ceiling, one bare wire from the green screw, one bare wire from the lamp, and one green wire from the lamp. Twist the four ends together and secure with the wire nut.
Each wire nut has different kinds and sizes of wires in it so check carefully. Try to pull each wire out of its nut.
The reason for the pigtail construction is that wrapping three wires around the green screw would result in an unreliable connection.


Should I cut back drywall before installing a new wall?

Normally it's not necessary to remove drywall when adding new walls. You'd just install studs tight to the existing drywall and nail or screw through. For the ceiling, cut openings to add backing if the plate is parallel to and between joists, otherwise just fasten to the joists through the drywall.
An exception might be where you lack midpoint backing and want the studs mounted securely for reasons such as door openings right at the end. If you don't have backing you can use construction adhesive or toggle bolts to secure the middle of the stud, or just rely on the top and bottom connections and the tension of the drywall on the new wall.
So, no.


What could cause ceiling fan lights to flicker on with power and then go out immediately?

I've seen this happen before.  The vibration of the fan loosens connections to the bulbs.  The lighting portion of the fan should be removed and examined for flaky connections.

The fact that the lights come on and then off might indicate an issue with a partially-inhibited connection that is generating some heat and then separating somewhere in the light fixture.


Are grout lines or gaps required for expansion with ceramic tile?

An article I read by a tile master said grout is for two reasons:

The first is the tiles are not perfectly uniform so the grout helps equalize size mismatch. To check this, put nine tiles in a 3 x 3 pattern tight up against each other and see if there are differences in measurements horizontally, vertically, and diagonally.

The second reason was expansion and slight movement could cause the edges of the tiles to chip or crack the tiles if they are butted right up against each other.

I don't know if I am completely convinced of the second reason since I have seen quite a few tile installations that have no grout lines, especially marble. The first reason makes sense especially with tile with looser dimensions like stone tiles. Otherwise your lines could be uneven.

Here is a link to a really good book by an actual tile master:
http://www.amazon.com/Setting-Tile-Revised-Updated-Homebuilding/dp/1561580805/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1450267844&sr=1-1&keywords=setting+tile


Stop. Using. USB. Receptacles.

Seriously.

The things are far less reliable than a plain receptacle and a charging block from any reputable vendor.

For instance you may remember the epidemic of 2-socket (car, battery pack, etc.) USB chargers where one socket was 2.1A and the other was 1.0A, not interchangeable, you had to know which one to plug in. Why did this same exact heuristic appear on thousands of brands of the things?   All those devices are simply some commodity hardware wrapped around one specialty IC chip made by Texas Instruments.

Further, they are always way, way, way behind the times. Take the iPad, which is not a new product. It charges at a 2A rate.  I had not seen a 2A-rate receptacle until quite recently, and even it just trotted out that old TI chip with the 2A/1A deal. Why?

Remember our friend "Good. Fast. Cheap. Pick two"?

Not that... but that same sort of balance of limitations of

core competency at getting receptacles to clear UL listing
skill in low-voltage DC design
ability to rapidly innovate and take market risks

USB receptacles have to go through their very own UL listing process.  As such, they get built by people who are good at building receptacles.  That is not necessarily compatible with the other two.  Leviton is a blue-chip company that makes blue-chip items on commodity price margins. They are not out on the bleeding edge innovating like Apple, nor do they have the technology momentum or high profit margin to eat mistakes.

Since the company doesn't have a fortune to risk on this specialty product, they're not going to fast track it through UL listing.  So they'll plod through the process in the usual way, assuring they arrive late to the market.

Further, the company is not going to create anything cutting-edge because it's uncertain that new standard will actually adopt. That's why they were so skittish about 2A charge rate for so long - they didn't even start the development cycle until they were sure the iPad etc. would really take the market.  Now you're talking about some goofball protocol that I've not heard of, that I'm guessing may be proprietary to some brand of phone?

Oh yeah. Licensing.

Because they are retrofits onto the standard USB scheme, they need to be backward compatible. Which means there may be some fairly proprietary tech, not least in making sure you don't accidentally send 9V to an old Kindle and set it on fire. For that you need very good understanding of the advanced standard.

For that you either need direct support of a manufacturer with core competency in the field, or a rather stupendous engineering department of your own whose costs you could not possibly recover selling USB receptacles at a pricepoint that'll compete.

Noting that Very Few USB receptacle buyers even know the difference and your competitor will eat your lunch 95% of the time if his USB socket is $1 less (but only supports 1.0A).  The leading-edge-device USB snob market is just not big enough to support the risk and innovation needed to build what they want as soon as they want it. They are also the most likely to whine, return, and write blistering product reviews online.

Also, the more complex your product, the more returns you must accept because of the moron factor, people misapplying your product and blaming you.

Why don't the technology giants drive this?

Because building a receptacle is also hard.

Apple has never made a receptacle in their life, and would eat development time struggling through blunders like forgetting to make the passthru 20A instead of 15A.  Besides, Apple is a company that achieved greatness by saying "no".  They don't even make a display.

How about our clever friends to the east?

You certainly don't want Sum Ting Wong Import Co. Ltd. selling receptacles on AliBaba. Oh look, speak of the devil. Notice how that junkheap is "Sold by abbotech and fulfilled by Amazon"? That's the mark of Alibaba-tier junk that is dropshipped straight from Shenzhen to the Amazon Fulfillment warehouse, and has faked safety listings.  Amazon considers itself "only an agent" similar to eBay or AliExpress.

Why doesn't Amazon buy it direct and do "Sold By and Ships From Amazon" like this Leviton here? Because then, Amazon would  be the legal importer and would be legally responsible to assure its compliance with UL and all safety regulations.  Same as Home Depot and Target are obliged to assure their goods comply with all safety regs.  That is impossible given that the Cheese cheapie has no chance of ever passing muster at any reputable testing lab. That's why the company fakes it or just slaps on a CE and calls it good.


What type and size conduit should I use for my service entrance cable?

How deep do you go? You can give metal Rigid (/RMC) or IMC conduit only 6" of cover.    Other conduit needs 18" of cover.   If you want to direct bury, you need 24" of cover.

Since you are downstream of a main panel that presumably serves other loads, this is not service wire, this is feeder, and needs to be sized as feeder not service conductors.  You need to run separate neutral and ground wires, unless you are running in IMC or Rigid conduit, in which case you are allowed to use the conduit shell as the ground wire.

Don't run cable in conduit, that is the mark of the amateur.  It is also a very, very hard job.   Either direct bury at 24" or use THWN-2 wires instead of cable.


Layering sheens: What kind of paint sheen should I use under a polyurethane semi gloss?

Flat, flat, flat, followed by  whatever you put on the surface. Flat gives you "tooth" for the next layer without you having to sand it (tooth) into a gloss finish.

Though given the described problem, I'd take a careful look at the "latex primer followed by urethane paint" W.R.T.  "weird cracking."


I think it is time to call a plumber for help. Your snake may not be big enough or long enough. The plumber I use has a snake with a camera so you can see what is in the piping.  By using the camera he can spot any problems that may be lurking underground and fix the problem you are having.


Shower diverter turns but doesn't divert

Over time calcification builds up on valves affecting their ability to function properly. Sometimes you can repair it by replacing the cartridge or possibly just cleaning it with a de-calcifying agent. Three or four-way valves seem to be more susceptible to this especially if they've been left in one position too long. It's always a good idea to occasionally rotate them through their different functions to keep them operable.
At this point I would replace the cartridge if there is one and if you can remove it. If you can remove it try to clean the inside of the valve body with a de-calc product and a stiff brush to remove any build-up. Be careful of any o-rings that might be there although they should come out with the cartridge.
If this doesn't work you might have to replace the diverter. Hopefully, you can get  access through the other side of the shower wall. You wouldn't want to mess up the attractive tile you have. Good luck.


Calculating the effectiveness of sunlight reduction solutions

The best is to block the sun from the outside. Options there would be:

plant a tree (pro: green; con: might take a few decades to get full effect)
awnings (pro: do great at blocking summer sun; con: costs a bit, takes some maintenance, can block views)

As for the windows themselves, are they high-efficiency? Ideally you'd have triple-pane glass with low-e coatings. If these are old windows, it might be time to invest in replacing them.

On the inside, blocking it with blinds is a good bet. A light, reflective or solar shade is a good bet.

Lots of commercial establishments will use shades such as these:

http://idahocanvas.com/roller_shades.htm

(Link is merely provided as an example product.)


Single phase power is just one (or two) poles of a 3 phase system, ALWAYS. So no, there is no "safety" issue, it is done all the time. The only issue is that it MIGHT be that the heating elements inside of the coffee brewer are configured to be connected Line-to-Line, instead of Line-to-Neutral. If so, then they will get 208V instead of 240V. Since the elements have a fixed resistance, the wattage output of the elements will drop to 75% of what they are rated for at 240V (P = V squared / R). That then will mean that it will just take longer for it to heat up the water.


How should I clean under the narrow toilet rim to restore full flush power?

Someone told me to drain the tank. Then put duck tape over the holes under the rim. Add your cleaner of choice to the tank, (I poured directly into the bowl filler part as I was "flushing"). I used CLR. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Opened up the holes pretty well. Did it again. Flushes like new. I have HORRIBLE water, rust, iron ect. Give it a try. This is not spam, nor do I want to spent hundreds to replace it.


Does unblocking power bar outlets through short extension cords increase fire risk?

Yes, but negligibly.

Any connection increases fire risk by increasing the chance of heat buildup due to resistance, sparks due to arcing, etc. The question is how much, and the answer is not much.

Since you already probably have dozens of such connections in your home (including such high-current things as a microwave and kitchen range), and since most of these are low-current devices, I see no reason to be concerned.

One caveat would be the potential for heat buildup around the transformers. They're normally held captive by wall outlets or power bars and not likely to end up in a heap on the carpet. In combination, many transformers without good cooling airflow could overheat. Don't let that situation arise.

Make sure all hardware is in good working order and be happy.


Going from 3 way switch to a regular switch

The right 3-way (center switch) has neither hot nor neutral.  The three wires present there are:

messenger 1
messenger 2
switched-hot.

Since you have neither hot nor neutral, that far 3-way is dead as far as feeding power off it.  You have to go back to the left 3-way.

You also have a problem there paralleling two 12-2's, despite what the illustration shows, you are not allowed to do that.

I would start the whole thing over with smart switches which use radio waves for 3-waying, and simply straight-line hot and neutral through all boxes.

Switch-1: Smart-switch master that supports radio comm with a powered (or battery) remote.
From switch 1 to lamp 1, black=always-hot, white=always-neutral, red=switched-hot.
Inside lamp 1: TOP 12-2 is passthru: black goes to always-hot, white goes to always-neutral.  BOTTOM 12-2: Black goes to switched-hot (red wire) and to lamp.  White goes to neutral and to lamp.
From lamp 1 to 2:  TOP 12-2: passthru hot and neutral.  BOTTOM 12-2: switched-hot and neutral for lamp 2 only.**
Inside lamp 2: TOP 12-2 passes through.  BOTTOM 12-2: black is switched-hot to lamp.  White is always-neutral to lamp only, do not parallel with top 12-2.
From lamp 2 to switch 2: black=always-hot, white=always-neutral, red=capped at both ends.
Switch 2: Appropriate smart-switch remote.
From switch 2 to switch 3: Black=always-hot, white=always-neutral.
Switch 3 and past: normal switch circuit.

** This arrangement is very important because it assures currents are equal in all cables.  You can't randomly parallel two 12-2's if you need 4 wires, the diagram you linked is wrong.


Should the gas be turned off before leaving on vacation?

Yes, turning off your gas will prevent issues if there is a gas leak. I never have but I do turn off my water in case of a leak and oil burner to prevent wasting fuel. Turning off gas will be a personal preference, just as turning off the water is.  You will need to consider what you have for appliances and how much hassle they will be to relight or if you need them to run (like a furnace during cold months to prevent pipe freezing) and whether turning it off will help you relax more while on vacation or not. Some people turn off everything, some don't do anything.  Like I said, it's a personal preference.


You need to look up your county's regulations for builder accountability/warranty.  In NW Washington the rule was 6 years for discovery and 6 years to get it fixed.  Simply there was a 12 year warranty unless the contractor was savvy enough to put in his contract 'In Lieu of Blah Blah Blah' warranty, putting in his own 1 year warranty.

Hire a Home Inspector...someone who works FOR YOU to go through your home to find PROBLEMS.  This should have been done before you signed anything to purchase this home.  They will go through your home WITH you and make sure you make them explain everything to you, mainly cause you are paying them for the information.  They are so reasonable, worth every cent.  I hired one 8 years ago and the bill was $150 for a huge, 4,000 sq. ft. log home with daylight basement.  He had his office in his van and any question at all was available via computer to include State, county and city warranties.

I used to build custom homes so I know the ins and outs.  If there is a shortcut MOST contractor's will take it to make money. Sad and wrong but so true.
Who can you trust?  A Home Inspector!!  Again, check the regulations.  It might be that the original owners only have that warranty but then that goes into the 'discovery' aspect to finally end up with the real estate agent in fault.  The roof is a big big deal.  Yours looks rather yucky.  Is any of the insulation wet?  Looks like they left the old rafters and ship lap.  Ugh job.  Do you have composite for the skin of this roof?  Do you have gutters?  Where is it leaking?

Go hire an inspector, they are your best bet to solve this issue, whatever it is. If you ever sell this home you'd better have your ducks in a row or this problem becomes yours to solve. Inspector, courthouse records..did you hire this contractor in 2010? Get records from them as well regardless.


You can add a water hammer arrestor on that line. They are not expensive approx  15$ . These devices have a spring loaded chamber that dampen the water hammer most plumbing and big box stores stock them.  This is the easiest diy method of fixing , if you have access to the pipes strapping them down can also solve the problem.


Should I move the furnace upstairs to help cool the 2nd story?

I would only place the unit in the attic if it was a second unit and it avoided ducts running up and down walls. With an attic unit, you have to worry about a clog in the condensate line causing a leak in your ceiling. Access is frequently more difficult and requires a trip through your entire home. As tabun mentioned, it's noisier. You'd also need to run power and refrigerant lines up there, which won't be cheap. You also need to worry about insulating the unit and all ducts since the HVAC will likely be in uninsulated space.

Replacing duct work will be a huge job without a lot of reward unless the ducts are easy to access. They will have to pull out drywall all over the place to access the lines.

The best solution would be a couple dampers that you can adjust each season to direct air either upstairs or downstairs. You'll need one installed on each outflow from the HVAC, but the line to the attic is frequently a single trunk going up the wall. You also need to make sure your return upstairs is working well. My personal solution has been to replace my return grilles with the hinged style that supports a filter, and then to leave the filter out of the return that needs more heating or cooling.

The air accelerator would help (make sure it only activates during the AC mode) and be a decent option if you can't use dampers on the vents to the first floor, but otherwise, it's one more thing that can break and I'm a fan of keeping things simple. You may also want to see if they have a system that supports two thermostats and electronically controlled dampers which would cut down on some of the extreme temperature swings you likely have upstairs.


Roofer would be the initial guess. One has to guess that because the leak is seen during a storm.

Even though the leak may be coming in around the vent stack pipe for the bathroom it is still a roofers skill to properly seal a leak like that.


Water being dumped into street from basement?

What is probably going on is that your neighbors' weeping tile systems are draining into their sumps, which are then pumped out because they're below grade and there isn't a storm sewer at a lower grade that can be drained into. The weeping tile exists to direct water that soaks into the ground away from your house, instead of letting it collect against your foundation walls and leach through, or worse, freeze and heave against your house in the winter. Depending on your soil type, rainwater can stick around for months in the soil, and you may also have an aquifer or water table nearby that provides a relatively steady source of groundwater into the soil.

So, what I'm saying is that depending on how much rain you've had recently (as in the past few months) it's perfectly normal for your neighbors' sumps to still be filling. Depending on the land grade, it may also be normal that your sump isn't yet filling while your neighbors' are (water will soak more into land that is downhill). Just make sure your sump pump is in good working order and don't worry about it any more, unless you start to see damp areas along the walls or floor of your basement; these would generally indicate blocked, crushed or missing weeping tile.


How to clean up spilled paint on carpet?

So I bought some cheap carpet cleaner from the local grocery store and started dabbing.  With a rag soaked in cold water (my roommate also used a sponge, which may actually work better), I made sure to keep the carpet area wet.  I spent about 2 hours dabbing at the carpet, spraying the carpet cleaner every so often.  After a couple of dabs, I could tell the rag wouldn't pick up any more of the wet paint, so I would carry it to the sink, wring it out, and start dabbing again.

This seemed to work, for the most part!  The stain is hardly noticeable, and is still getting better as I continue to spray and dab when I have time.  It may be a little more work than expected, but it's better than replacing the carpet.

Some tips:

Make sure the paint stays wet in the beginning.  You want the rag to soak it up, and it won't absorb the paint if the paint is dry.
Try not to scrub too hard.  When I tried scrubbing, the paint would spread outside of the original drop zone.  Dabbing is better.
Don't leave a paint can on the carpet.  Ever.


How to drain water from a plastic sandbox?

I'd keep it simple. Cut some 2" by 2" holes that wrap from the floor around to the sidewall at the bottom corner, either with a hole saw or jig saw or similar. Use latex-based construction glue or another plastic-friendly adhesive to bond one or more layers of aluminum insect screen over the drain hole from the inside, using a bead around the opening. You could also use pop rivets and washers to secure the screen.

A small amount of sand will work though the screen over time, but it'll mostly stay put. The sand will retain enough water for the kids to play for the short term, but it will drain slowly and keep the box fairly dry.


Cutting Wall Tile with Oscillating tool?

That should cut through the tile fairly well (assuming ceramic and not porcelain), but it may not leave a clean edge against the cabinet. In particular, you'll have trouble getting through the surface glazing.

I'd set the cabinet in place, trace it on the tile with a permanent marker, pop the tile off the wall, and take it to a big box or tile shop and ask them to cut it with their wet saw.


How thick should the seam coat of thinset be for Hardiebacker boards in a tiled flooring application?

I think you will be fine.  As you pointed out, the thinset under the tile will offset any uneven bump in your subfloor.  An even comb of thinset isnt required.  whenever you press down the tile and level it, the thinset will move under the tile to compensate for any bump.

Usually i only put just a little between the hardiboards just to fill the gaps.  Having a perfectly flat subfloor is not necessary.


Can I install a dimmer switch on a 2 way circuit?

Yes, you just have to buy the right dimmer. Here in the USA, most dimmers are compatible with 3-way circuits. I'm not sure if that's true in your area, so you'll have to verify when buying the dimmer.

NOTE: In the USA we would call this type of circuit a 3-way, while other countries (yours included) refer to it as a 2-way circuit.


Best way to reattach this molding to the drywall?

For that type of heavy softwood trim on drywall, I'd use 2-1/2" 16 gauge gun nails, or get some 2-1/2" hardened trim/casing nails (which are significantly narrower then regular wire nails) and pre-drill through just the trim with a 1/16" bit. You want an inch of penetration into the framing, at least.

Where it contacts the door jamb, 1-1/2" or 2" nails are adequate, but you could use the longer nails as well.

You can also use a few dabs of construction adhesive or silicone against the drywall for better stability.


Is it necessary to shut off the water supply to a radiator in order to replace a radiator valve?

You need to drain the water from the heating system, effect the remove and replace, then refill the heating system.

Some circulating-water heating systems are filled with tap water from the home's water supply, while others are isolated from the water supply plumbing and are filled with some other liquid. My experience is entirely with the most common tap water type, so I cannot tell you how to empty and refill an isolated system.

If you have a tap water connected system, you need to find three connections on your heating system, one where the water is admitted, one where it can be drained, and one where air can bled from the system.

The water will be admitted into your heating system from your home's cold water pipes, at a connection with a valve, pressure regulator, and probably a backflow preventer. Look for a pipe from the house plumbing into the furnace or into the pipes near the furnace. Look for a pipe interrupted by a valve and one or two other fittings.

The water can be drained from your heating system via a faucet or similar valve near the bottom of your furnace. It will have threads on its spout to accept a garden hose. Attach a hose to this faucet and place the other end of the hose outside your house, at a point lower than the bottom of the furnace.

The air bleed valve is usually found at the top of each radiator. These rarely have a handle attached; you are supposed to open it with a small spanner or a special key.

To empty the heating system: turn the furnace off, close the admitting valve, open the drain faucet, and open the highest air bleed valve in the house. Wait until water stops flowing from the end of the hose.

Use two spanners to remove the broken thermostat valve, and to install the new one.

To refill the heating system: close the drain faucet, open the admitting valve, and wait by the air bleed valve with a pan or bucket until water comes out, then close the air bleed valve. Now visit every radiator in the house, open its air bleed valve, wait with your bucket to catch the water that comes out, and close the valve.

If you have trouble confidently locating these places on your heating system, take some photos and post them here. Include a picture of one of your radiators, so you can get specific pointers from someone who has experience with your make and model.


How do I fill a gap between my hearth and the hardwood frame around it?

Buy a small bag of concrete floor patch: it mixes like pancake batter and sets a light gray. This is what you fill that gap with. It gets hard as concrete and will adhere to the existing stone. If you don't want it to stick to the wood then mask off the wood before. It also helps to protect the top of the wood with masking tape. If you need more of a curb effect form at the edge of the hardwood with the propped height wood strip and remove when patch is dry. I have a picture of something like it:


Control 12V LED circuit and 120V power supply from one switch

LED's are run by drivers (ballast by another name), but they are electronic. Electronic drivers and ballasts are not damaged even if they are running in no load. You are referring to the old axiom about magnetic ballasts which were a type of autotransformer. And an electronic ballast can sense load and turn off unlike a magnetic.

Part 2, you can have 12V and 120V or any other voltage combination in an enclosure so long as the insulation has the same voltage rating, otherwise there must be a partition. I would assume by looking at the driver that it was made to go into an enclosure with no partition.

Now to your question. I would assume that if the driver was able to carry two separate switched loads, it would tell you it could and provide a drawing on how to do it. Try going to their website and see if they have a specification and/or installation paperwork. Even though the NEC wiring methods usually apply to voltages over 50V. I would not switch the return wire. The first reason is because if another electrician was to work on this he would assume that it was connected under standard methods causing confusion. The other reason would be that everything up to the switch would be hot even though it appears to be off leaving a chance for a shock or burn hazard.

Stay safe.


What can I use for a very small access panel?

Why not use a simple blank electrical box cover?

They also come in round versions (about 5 inches) to cover electrical ceiling boxes.

You could hold it up using thin bolts through the eyelets with nuts locking on a small offset piece of plastic on each end that could rotate outward above the drywall to hold it in place.


How best to remove and replace this gasket on swivelling spigot

If using a tool at all, a plastic credit/id/rewards card (use the corner) is the best bet. Tools (such as steel ones) that are harder than the (probably brass) o-ring groove/seat can scratch that surface and cause a leak.

In most cases you should not need a tool at all. Clean the outer surface of the o-ring with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove any grease on the surface, so you can get a grip on it. Pinch it between your thumb and a finger (on opposite sides of the central metal part), and then move your pinching thumb and finger to one side - this should raise a loop of o-ring out of the groove on that side, which you can grab. You are stretching the other side and pushing up slack material on the side you are moving towards.

The latter method has the advantage of not damaging the o-ring, either - which does not matter when you are replacing it, but does matter when you would prefer to re-use it.

Clean the whole metal thing above and including the groove very carefully, then lightly lubricate the new o-ring and check that there is no dirt/sand/hair adhering to it, and roll/slide it down into the groove. Clean the inside of the part that goes over this as well, before reinstalling it.


How do I change the time on a Potterton EP 3000 clock?

Having just asked my own question about an EP3000, I think I know the answer to this one. The current time (and all your programmed on/off times) are preserved during a power outage by a little rechargeable battery that's kept topped up by the mains. But like any rechargeable battery, it's got a finite life. Yours may have died some time ago - you just didn't notice until you switched the power off.

I didn't bother trying to prise the battery out of mine (which is also dead), but based on this discussion it's almost certainly a Varta 250DK. It's an oval about 30x40, 70mm long, containing 8 x 1.2 NiCad cells (9.6 volt total).

You need a bit of confidence (and brute force!) to prise the programmer off its back-plate which is screwed to the wall. It's "half-hinged" on the top, but there's a moulded "retaining latch" on the bottom right. Look from underneath and you'll see a 5mm "slot" about 5cm in from the bottom right. Push a screwdriver hard up there to free the latch, and simultaneously pull/prise the bottom edge of the programmer outward and upward.

I can't say exactly where you'll get a replacement (I doubt Varta still make them). The important thing is it should be an 8-cell 9.6v NiCad (don't use Li-ion or whatever). If you take the old one in to Maplin or similar they might be able to supply something compatible.

Other options are: Expensive - pay an electrician/gasman to come and deal with it; Cheap - just live with it and get used to reprogramming the thing whenever you've had a power cut or turned it off for some reason.


What is my circuit breaker capacity load

This is a 63A, C-curve breaker
On IEC-style miniature circuit breakers (MCBs), the primary characteristic designation consists of a letter followed by one or two digits.  The letter indicates the trip curve of the breaker, or more precisely its magnetic trip setting. A B curve would be used for sensitive loads with little inrush, while a C curve breaker like yours provides a good general purpose compromise, and a D curve is used for very high inrush loads like some motors, transformers, or very large banks of lighting.
The numbers, then, give In, the nominal rated current of the breaker.  Pulling more than In for a significant period of time will eventually trip the breaker; loads less than In are permitted, although the wiring regulations in your country may require a derate (say, 80%) of the load if it's to be left on continuously (say, more than 3 hours at a time).  The wiring protected by the breaker, therefore, needs to be able to handle In without heating excessively as a result of that current, so that the breaker can act as a "weak link" and trip to protect the wiring from an overcurrent before the heat from that overcurrent event can start a fire somewhere in a wall.
In your case, your breaker is 63A; this is a common size for a distribution board main breaker/switch in a housing unit (house or flat) in European countries; if more power is required, the unit generally will be connected to two or three phases of electricity instead of a single phase.
As to those other markings...
The other markings on your breaker are meaningful, but not as relevant to most folks.  The 400V is the maximum nominal AC voltage the breaker can safely switch or interrupt; applying the breaker to a higher-voltage circuit will cause the breaker to get blown up by the higher-energy arcs produced by the higher voltages involved.  The "6000A" number you see on the breaker is a similar rating, only for the amount of current that could potentially flow in the event of a bolted short on the protected side of the breaker. If the wiring resistance of your house's and electric utility's wiring wasn't sufficient to limit the short circuit current to less than 6000A , then the breaker would be be considered underspecified as it'd be liable to blow up if a sufficiently large short was presented.  Again, this is due to arc energy issues; however, only your utility can tell you if that interrupting rating on your breaker (especially your main breaker) is sufficient for the service they are providing, as the maximum short circuit current the utility can provide depends on the size and length of their wires.


How to detect where water is coming from on external wall

I have used a flir camera to find leaks in roofs the water trails show up as cold areas and the thermal image even works to some extent through the wall. In 1 case the water was coming in more than 20' from the wall running down a rafter then down the wall I could not see it with my eyes but the camera made it quite easy to pinpoint. I use the camera for other things like finding bad electrical connections and leaks in ductwork so they can be a handy tool for a home owner there are quite a few models on the market for 200-400$ that work with some smart phones.


Replacing Fencing with Gaps Because of Erosion

Go ahead and purchase the longer fence boards but do not bury the lower ends in the ground. The boards will just rot faster if you poke then into the soil.  Instead cut each board to length as the fence is being built.

You can stretch a string between the posts for each section to be used to guide the top of the boards for that section. Then when you are ready for each board set it in place just resting on the ground and mark its length with a carpenter pencil at the string. (Note that if the fence boards are the dog eared style turn it upside down for marking so that you are cutting off the bottom).


What's the best way to attach a hook to the back of my metal gutters?

They sell clips like this

at the Home Depot, which can either clip under your singles or to the gutters.

Not sure how well they work yet, I picked up a box and plan on giving them a try this year.


Best way to make a hole in concrete wall

Menards and other places rent core drills for large holes in concrete.

Easiest way is to call Diamond Drilling or a similar company and have them come out and drill all your holes for a few hundred dollars.

Unless you want to buy a Hilti DD100 and the bits which will cost you way more than hundreds.

Edit: Sorry I just re-read your post. If you want to cut bigger holes then you need diamond concrete saw blades for a standard circular saw. They will wear down so you could start with 1 or 2 and see how far that gets you. Depends on how many holes you want to make. Hopefully they are available in Ecuador.

Or you could order one like this.

Then you will need a sledgehammer, wedges, chisels, and lots of muscle.

Good luck!


I would add a fourth cabinet to support the long run of the top pieces but at about 27" from the end that is in the corner. This would put two cabinet faces at right angles to each other and preclude opening drawers from both at the same time but should be of the most minor inconvenience.

The extra cabinet idea would eliminate any need to attach things to the walls.

My take is that I would set the cabinet faces an inch from the front edge of the top. That will make it look a lot better.

The top is attached to the cabinets by placing screws up through the top of the cabinet from inside the cabinet and into the bottom of the top pieces.

Joining the two top pieces together can be as simple as using several flat metal strap pieces placed across the joint and screwed into each piece up from the bottom. You can get these strap pieces at a hardware store in the same area where angle and corner brackets are found. Here is an example:

(Picture captured from Home Depot web site)


Given that it won't be walked on, I'd say spread a very thin layer of thinset, give it 24 hours to set, then just do a regular tile job with thinset and tiles followed by grout. The hardest part of this job will be cutting the rearmost row of tiles so your bullnose is even with the edge.


Wiring a house to prevent light flickers and overloaded breakers

The problem is that when the fridge turns on and draws a lot of power, causing the voltage on that circuit to dip. Anything else on the same circuit (lights, etc) may be affected by the voltage drop. In addition, as you say, the high initial electrical draw from the fridge combined with anything else that's running may cause your breaker to trip.

The solution is to put major appliances on dedicated circuits and then have separate circuits for outlets (making sure not to overload those either). The fridge should be on its own circuit for exactly this reason.

Any new building or old one that is up-to-code should not have this problem.


Does the air temperature outside at the time of spring inspection matter when the tech comes to inspect and clean the inside and outside units?

Yes, condensing units cannot be run when it's cold outside. The temperature at which the unit cannot be run will vary depending on the manufacturer's recommendation, and the company doing the inspection.


Placing a good surge protector on our Fleck 4650 Control Valve (used as well water softener)

It's probably very low power, but you can be sure its less than 15 amps since it runs off a normal 120VAC 3 prong plug. So, get a normal (but quality) plug-in surge suppressor (single port if this is the only thing you are trying to protect) and plug it in - don't overcomplicate the process. While you are at it, buy a spare so that when the surge suppressor gives up the ghost you can replace it quickly. The manufacturers of quality suppressors often claim to cover damage to connected equipment, though it's probably a pain to get them to pay up in practice.

You might also want to go over the grounding connections of the power to the well shed, and check for basic details like "if the well casing is steel (or other metal, which would be uncommon) is it tied into the grounding electrode system properly"


Natural Gas Furnace Installation Shut off valve Direction

Put the side tap on the furnace side. This will make it much more convenient to connect and remove the measuring gauge because you can shut the valve so that gas won't be pouring out. The reading will be just as useful as having the gauge on the supply side because there will not be any pressure drop across this valve.

If you are worried about air getting into the supply pipe and making a combustible mixture, you could leave the valve open a little so that there is a small flow of gas out the sidetap which will keep air from getting in


Do I need to remove old adhesive residue before installing new self-adhesive flooring?

Check the "surface prep" instructions as it will likely instruct you to remove all previous residue, grease, dust, etc... or else they won't warrant their product.

FYI, removing all of the residue is damn near impossible as you are finding out and if you lay down new peel-n-stick then take a wild guess at what will happen to your new flooring in a few years.

I would probably choose to lay down the thinnest underlayment I can find such as 1/4 inch common plywood so that the project doesn't go to sh1t after a few years.


How to fit kitchen cabinets to corners that are not 90 degrees

Not all corner cabinets make up both sides of a corner. You can get a cabinet for example that is 42" long but with only a 18" door. Another standard cabinet will butt against it to form a corner. Normally a 3" spacer is used to make clearance for drawers and doors to open.  You may need more on your smaller angled corner. I believe they're called blind corner cabinets.  They normally leave an hard to access space but slide outs like in the picture below will help.


What do you mount an outdoor electric box to when it's not near your house?

My 240v stuff is all nailed to a flammable box, which I live in. - A 4"x4" should be fine. Use any visually acceptable piece of painted wood, vinyl, or painted metal; you don't need a bespoke "240v box post". Use a large radius bend between the horizontal underground run and the vertical, attach the vertical conduit to the post, and pour concrete around both post and conduit. This will constitute a permanent installation.


5hp 230v single phase motor popping 30amp breaker

NEC Table 430.245 states to size 5HP motor for 28A at 230V. Add 25% for start up and the circuit should be sized for 35 amps minimum. That would be #8 copper conductors with a 40A or 45A breaker.

The only way you could verify it is to check the amperage with an ammeter at start up and see if it is over 30A. That's probably is what is tripping your breaker.


Motion sensor ground connection won’t work?

I see your problem.
Those aren’t “spares”
This happens all the time as people gain experience.  They come upon a box with more wires than they need, as you have here.  Mentally, they perceive the wires as “The wire I need, plus a bunch of spares”.
What they do not realize is electricians are cheap, and don’t install spare wires.  Every wire has a job to do, it’s just a job unrelated to the novice’s project.    Usually we see this as someone splitting up a neutral group to grab 1 neutral for a smart switch - which breaks neutral for everything. In this case, you did the same thing, but with ground.
Usually novices do this because the instructions require attaching a neutral wire, and they haven’t accumulated the array of “kit” that an experienced person has - scraps of NM cable for pigtails, variety of wire nuts, etc.
In your case, ditto but ground wire.  The grounds you separated need to go back the way you found them. Then, you will need to pigtail off them.
To fix it
Anyway, you are at the horns of a decision to stay with this neutral-less device (that needs ground) or sidestep into a neutral-required device, since you do in fact have neutral here.  Either way:

The switched-hot wire (typ. Red on device, back on cable) going to the lamp will attach to the 1 wire it’s already attached to.
The always-hot wire (typ. Black) will pigtail into a group of black wires, as it probably already does.
The neutral if present will also pigtail, being added to the existing group of neutral wires, so all currently-connected wires are still connected.
The ground if needed will also pigtail, becoming another ground wire, with ALL ground wires connected to each other.

If you connect all the grounds together with your new ground, then your grounding will be restored, and your device will work as intended.
“All grounds always connect to all other grounds” is a rule.  The same is not true for neutral.  Sometimes you find boxes with 2 separate circuits in them.  Neutral cannot cross between different circuits (grounds can).
Bare AND green wire
Now, a few smart switches have both a green and a bare wire.  Read the instructions closely and follow them.  In these cases, typically the bare wire is true ground.   The green wire is a “neutral if possible, otherwise ground”.  These units are designed in a way satisfactory to UL to safely “bootleg neutral” off ground if neutral is not available.  Make sure such a setup is approved by an NRTL; this is the last place you want cheap Cheese junk.


Splicing wall plates at doors and windows?

You mentioned the obvious solution in your question. Just build the wall in different segment lengths to avoid windows and doors.

Another option is to simply set the head er after the two wall segments are stood up.

Don't overthink it. Just do what seems convenient at the time. All the pieces end up in the same places anyway.


Can XPS foam support the weight of a bath?

It depends on what you mean by "support". It will hold the tub up but it will flex. The movement of the flexing may loosen plumbing connections ; not the first time , but movement over an extended time could work things loose. It may even cause leaks at what ever caulk or trim is used on the top edge of the tub.The weigt of 6" water in a 5' tub is roughly 300 lb. plus occupant(s).


How to cut hole larger than 1/3 of joist?

I have seen these before. https://www.metwood.com/joist-reinforcers/ . I do not know if they are code approved, but it looks like a good start.

This pic is from their website

It looks like they are not graduated lower to account for the fall of the pipe unless they over sized the hole to allow for some slope.


Can copper pipe support minor bends and creases?

copper is fairly soft stuff and a single crease-uncrease operation won't cause a leak by itself. but that piece is now weaker than the rest of the pipe so it may  be the first part to fail is the system is over-stressed.


That's an interesting floor. Is it cold to the touch? I ask because it looks rather quite a lot like actual sliced stones with grout instead of like any sort of resilient flooring with stone-appearance surface; the breakage all seems to have happened AROUND the "stones". I've seen sliced stone available attached to fiberglass mesh to make mortaring & grouting easy; it's laid similarly to ceramic tile.

If that's the case - that it's actual slices of natural stone, it may be really difficult (or at least impractical) to polish the surface with any sort of abrasives. Paste wax might add more shine, but at the cost of making the surface more slippery underfoot. Another possible option would be to pour a layer of acrylic resin (possibly "bartop finish") or decoupage over it, just deep enough to fully encapsulate all the stones. If you did that, you could even patch the damaged areas first with sliced stone (stones CAN be sliced with a diamond-rim wet tile saw) and grout.


Previous Expansion Encroaches on Property Line

How can I get a set of plans to submit my project to the city?

You either draw them yourself or hire someone else to do it.  I'm not aware of any "magic" solution that will get you what you need any other way.


Automatic garage door opener opens when it hits the floor

This is most likely due to the auto reversing function.   This is where the door will reverse open if it hits an obstacle when closing.

One possible cause is that there is an obstruction on the floor where the door meets the floor.  Look for any irregularities on the floor and on the bottom of the garage door.  You might find something stuck to the bottom garage door seal.

Another possible cause is that the door got out of adjustment.  Most door I have seen have four adjustments; 1) Open force; 2) close force; 3) open travel distance; and 4) close travel distance.  I would look at making adjustments to the close travel distance.


What type of lighting is used in this picture?

Well, if we trust google's reverse image lookup, that's a picture of 3528 led light strips in action.

The problem is, those light strips have emitters every 5/8", so it's my opinion that you're looking at a bit of photo trickery or a diffuser that isn't ordinarily a part of those kits.


Is it possible to remove fluoride from drinking water?

Yes, RO can remove most of the fuoride (according to the mfg specs on my system).  Distillation will also remove just about everything -- in either case, you should weigh the benefits of these systems (costly!) vs using a water cooler for drinking water.

Deionizers and activated alumina are more obscure filtration systems that you can look into as well.


Wood between slab allowing ground water seepage

Where I live, we have ground water issues year around. This is obviously subterranean water, (i.e.:  you say, not roof, no water leak, etc.  I also assume no window leaks, because you say it's in the recessed room...only.)

Your first paragraph is powerful. Because the ground seems to "go down towards the foundation," I suspect there is a subterranean water problem caused by: 1) shallow water table, and/or 2) subterranean water pressure.

1) Shallow water table: if the "area" around your home is generally flat, rain will greatly affect the water table. You say, "have not had a heavy rain in over a week, maybe two," makes me think you get "heavy rain" from time to time. If so, that water will make the water table rise and put water "pressure" on the bottom of your slab...especially the lowest slab.

Where I live, we'll install French drains under slabs to make sure the water from the water table is diverted away.  Btw, those roof drains that you connected, did you extend them to a stormwater system, or just run them to a ditch where they can seep back down in the ground?

2) Subterranean water pressure: if you live near a hill, the water table will generally follow the  slope of the hill. If your homesite was cleared off along that slope, (or especially if you live near the base of a hill,) the pressure from the water table above your home will push on the water table at the base of the hill and cause the water table to rise. This is called Subterranean Water Pressure AND it will put water pressure on the bottom of your slab.

The only way to relieve this pressure is to install French drains around your house. The size and depth depends on your site, (slope,etc.) and soil conditions. Remember, you are trying to lower the water table. So, after you gather the water in the French drain, make sure it is discharged off site. Don't let it seep back in the ground. This may take a pump.


It is a little small, but yes you can support a 6x6 post on a 10" diameter concrete pedestal. However, any steel hardware you embed in the concrete to attach to the post needs to have proper clearance from the edge of the concrete.  Code requires 2" clearance. Something like a Simpson PBS66 would work.  Make sure you consolidate the concrete well, so you don't get voids around the top of your pedestal. Also, slope the top of the concrete slightly away from the base of the post.
Not sure what the "BigFoot System" is, but to determine your footing capacity determine the area at the bottom of the footing (in square feet) and multiple that by your allowable bearing pressure. You stated you are using 2000psf allowable bearing, which seems reasonable for a footing bearing 48" below grade on sandy soil. If your footing is 25" by 25" your allowable bearing capacity would be 8,680 pounds. You then calculate your post load, which must be less than your capacity. To calculate your post load, first determine the tributary area to the post. This is simply 1/2 the joist length on each side of the post times 1/2 the beam length on each side of the post. Since at your maximum loaded post the joists and the beam span the same amount on each side of the post, the maximum tributary area is 7' times 4.6', or 32.2 sq. ft. The uniform load on your deck is the dead load plus the live load, or the dead load plus the snow load. The dead load is the weight of the lumber, and 10psf is a conservative value. The code required live load for a residential deck is 40 psf. I don't know where your live or what your snow load is, but you could call your local building department to find out. Considering dead plus live load, your maximum post load is (10psf + 40psf) x 32.2 sq. ft. = 1,610 pounds.

My suggestion would be to only have five footings in each row. They would be spaced 5'-9" apart. Not sure what kind of wood you are using, but your double 2x8's should be strong enough.

The code also requires special attention for the attachment of guardrails to the deck and for the attachment of the deck to the house. Check out Simpson's DTT2Z and DPTZ.

This is actually a fairly complicated problem, so consider having somebody review your final plan.


Air conditioning by nature produces water.  As air is cooled it can’t hold as much water, the result is condensation.  It’s the same thing that happens on the outside of a glass of icy cold beverage on a hot day.  Air conditioners make a lot of condensation,  depending on the size of the unit and humidity in your area it could be a gallon an hour.

Normally this water leaves the air conditioner through a drain hose, that drain into your houses normal drain/sewer pipes. When the drain hose gets plugged the air conditioner will literally overflow.  If is an attic mounted unit the whole air conditioner will be installed in a secondary drain pan so that when the unit itself overflows the pan will catch the water to prevent it from damaging the ceiling in the room below the air conditioner.   The secondary drain usually goes outside so that the homeowner will realize something is wrong.

However, should that secondary drain run slowly, because it to is plugged up, then the drain pan will fill with water and overflow (damaging the ceiling in the room below).  So as final protection they add a float switch to the drain pan so that when it fills with water it will shut down the cooling (stopping the unit from pulling water out of the air) to prevent water damage.

What plugs up these drains? Dirt, gunk, algae, attic insulation all combine over time and create a plug that keeps the water from flowing.

The shorter story is your air conditioner needs maintenance and cleaning.


Which home improvement projects produce the highest return on investment when selling?

Having sold a home last year, I can say based on recommendations from our Realtor and the feedback we got from showings...

The BEST thing you can do is to declutter your house.

First, scout out a local storage unit. Get a 10'x10' unit or bigger (we had two). You'll use lots more space than you'd think.

Then, start filling it:

Pack up all clothing you won't be wearing during the time you're selling (out of season clothes, stuff that doesn't currently fit, out of style, etc.). Even things hanging in closets; people will see all the unused space (where you removed things) and see it as much bigger when empty. If your closet is packed with stuff, it'll look tiny.
Pack up your linen closet (except for a couple extra sheets, towels, and blankets). Most people accumulate way more than they'll use. Leave an item or two on each shelf, max.
Pack up most/all knick-knacky things from counters, shelves, etc. that are in normal view around the house. Many Realtors will tell you to remove photos of your family/friends as well -- it helps potential buyers to visualize THEIR family there instead of yours.
Pack up kitchen utensils, pots, pans, etc. that you don't use often.
Pack up all the holiday decorations (from garage, basement, attic, etc.) you won't be using this spring.
Within reason, try to remove a piece of furniture from each room. Especially things like that extra lamp, chair, couch, or end table you couldn't part with and just found somewhere to keep it.

Feel free to donate or sell items instead of storing them.

Also use the occasion as a chance to get rid of any expired food from the back of your pantry shelves or fridge. If you have storage shelves in your garage or basement, getting rid of old paint cans, yard chemicals, scrap lumber, etc. is also a good idea (do NOT put them in a storage unit).

If you're still motivated to do a project or two, continue with these cheap projects that make a big impact:

Paint rooms. Tend to go for an off-white neutral color. Also, use the same color on all the walls; don't use an accent color on one wall. Bold colors or accent walls can be extremely polarizing as people either love them or hate them and typically have a hard time envisioning a room in a different color. As @Tester101 mentioned in a comment (and other answer), you may want to avoid bright white.
Get any stains out of existing carpeting.
Make sure all window blinds are in good condition. If they're bent, broken, or extremely faded then replace them.
Wash your windows (inside and out).
Repair any screens that have holes.
Remove any hard water deposits from your sinks and tubs (CLR works great for this).


Electric box for kitchen island cabinets

The box in your picture is called an "old work box". They still manufacture similar boxes, and they also make old work boxes with even more robust attachment methods. link to one of the many manufacturers. Link to old work bracket.


Yes, it was allowed to have MWBC on separate breakers. My house was built in 1981 and I had my refrig and two outlets on one MWBC and my dishwasher and disposal on another. They were not handle tied and not even next to each other in the panel but they were on different phases so the neutral wouldn't be overloaded. The whole subdivision was built like that and many panels that I've been in have had them wired the same way.


Bathroom exhaust fan/light combo only fan works

You will have a light ground and a fan ground...so read the directions that came with the purchase as it will tell you where to attach the additional ground.  In many cases its a metal strip that the other ground also is attached to... otherwise try contacting the company that manufactured the unit and they have help desks.  But you also may want to hire a qualified person to install that for you...


How can I enclose and cover a well in a driveway?

Those concrete pipes are surprisingly inexpensive.  Get one that they have a man-hole cover to match.


I have an unused C wire hooked up to thermostat and have no idea where to connect it to the furnace for power

Based off the first picture, it looks like the blue wire fell out from the wirenut next to it with the black and white wires going into it.

That should be the common side of the 24 volt transformer used for the AC, which is what you probably want to be using for C.

Test to see if that all makes sense first rather than just connecting it. I'd rather not make your problem worse!

I don't know what to tell you about the second picture though, so determine if adding the blue wire to that wirenut makes sense, and if it doesn't just down vote this answer.


Problem solved. It was indeed a cross-threaded screw as the comments said. I was afraid to get too enthusiastic about using pliers to unscrew it, in case it got utterly and entirely jammed halfway through. The local hardware shop said that in that case I could just take a hammer to the cylinder (after turning the key to where the pieces line up) to break the screw off and tap the cylinder out. So with that as a backup option, I used more elbow grease with the pliers and was able to unscrew it. No hammering required.


Grounded outlet with load for ungrounded outlet

If you install a GFCI the load side of the GFCI can power 3 prong Ungrounded outlets just use one of the stickers in the box the GFCI comes with that says “GFCI protected no equipment ground” this is a legal way to update to 3 prong ungrounded outlets.

The home having 2 wire no ground points to pre 60’s era fwiw.
It is possible that it had some level of requiring or to just prior to 3 wire requirements.

The current code allows you to run a ground wire (not a new cable as past code required) to any convenient location as long as the circuit comes from the same panel. So if you only have 1 main panel you can tie into another circuit’s ground to provide a true grounded outlet instead of GFCI only protection. Note a plug in outlet tester that has a GFCI test function won’t work on a no ground socket but the test button on the outlet will work.


I would aim to pry out the top to see how the box is fixed in place, then disassemble the box and, if necessary, rebuild a new one from new wood.

Even replacing cut/damaged 240VAC wires is not an insurmountable obstacle.

Deciding that you are fully prepared to deal with the worst possible outcome is, for me, an important step in raising the necessary motivation to start on a difficult job.

Turn off the main electrical panel first. Take whatever other precautions seem appropriate.

There's a limit to how much damage you can do here. So long as you take some basic precautions. The sky won't fall.


How can I fix a shower faucet valve where hot and cold suddenly reversed?

if it is a MOEN Faucet just remove the handle from the stem & turn the stem 180deg. & re-install the handle & all should be back to normal again ... Hope this cures it!


Does lengthy refrigerant line between indoor and outdoor unit affect AC performance and result in higher utility bill?

Each manufacturer has installation recommendations for their equipment, including distance, vertical height difference, size of line, etc. I’d follow their directions.
30’ does not seem unreasonable for total length, including distance plus height. See Trane’s installation guide starting on page 18-21.
https://www.trane.com/content/dam/Trane/Commercial/global/products-systems/equipment/unitary/split-systems/odyssey-6-to-25-tons/SSP-SVX14J-EN_07112018.pdf
Obviously when you push the limits of their recommendations, the efficiency will go down.


What is the official definition of first-hour delivery of hot water tanks?

From the energy.gov page on sizing water heaters:

To properly size a storage water heater for your home -- including a heat pump water heater with a tank -- use the water heater's first hour rating. The first hour rating is the number of gallons of hot water the heater can supply per hour (starting with a tank full of hot water). It depends on the tank capacity, source of heat (burner or element), and the size of the burner or element.
The EnergyGuide label lists the first hour rating in the top left corner as "Capacity (first hour rating)." The Federal Trade Commission requires an EnergyGuide label on all new conventional storage water heaters but not on heat pump water heaters. Product literature from a manufacturer may also provide the first hour rating. Look for water heater models with a first hour rating that matches within 1 or 2 gallons of your peak hour demand -- the daily peak 1-hour hot water demand for your home.

If you want the gory details (such as the outlet temperature of 125°F used in the tests), by the way, you can find them in 10 CFR 430, Subpart B, Appendix E, section 5.3.


What is the white paneling under the vinyl on my house, and how can I fix it?

Given that someone put a gash in it with a string trimmer, its likely stucco over rigid foam insulation panels.

If there's wire mesh in there as well, it's likely a traditional multi-coat stucco finish that can be repaired using stucco repair techniques.

If there's no wire mesh, you may have an EIFS wall (exterior insulation finishing system), which is kind of insulation and finish in one. This should be repaired using products and techniques specific to EIFS.


That rule doesn't apply to the return air side. Return air is often overlooked and undersized because the effects of a properly installed return system seem similar to a very poorly installed system. It's great that you want to add a return! Most customers ask me to remove the big ugly register that nothing comes out of. That being said, the standards for return air are so relaxed that the logic is, as long as the furnace gets enough, it's good enough. Adding or removing anything to the duct system will change its dynamics. A return off the end of a duct plenum will draw more relative to a top cut or side cut return. It's almost impossible to predict the flow characteristics until the system is completed and even then you need a good velometer and accurate measurement methods to get a proper reading. So in general yes, outside of very critical circumstances, you can take a return off the end of the duct.

side note

You can technically take a supply run off the end of the duct but a 2" diameter hole can equal the output of a 5" take off. So if you cut a 5" side take off in the end of supply you can loose much of your static pressure and dump many hundreds of cfm into the take off. I have used this phenomenon to supply rooms that were previously neglected and/or extremely long distances away. Whenever doing this a volume damper is recommended at the take off as well as at the boot.


Your heater is 7500W, which is 31.25 amps, and because it's a heater, it must be derated to 125% or 9375W or 38.8 amps.

That is too much for a 30A wire and breaker, but is "just right" for 40A wire and breaker.  That is designed that way on purpose.

So you need to use #8 cable, e.g. 8/2 Romex.  And a 40A breaker.  The 30A/10AWG wires are not suitable for this heater.

If you want a heater able to exploit the #10 cable and 30A breaker, pick one whose output is 5300-5500 watts (22-23 amps).  That, multiplied by 125%, will fall just under 30A.

If you are connecting it via cord-and-plug, Code requires you use a 50A receptacle.  You can either use a NEMA 6-50, which does not include neutral, or a NEMA 14-50  receptacle (but then you need to run 8/3 cable).

If you also want to plug in actual 50A loads, such as an RV or electric vehicle charger, then run 6/3 cable to a NEMA 14-50 and use a 50A breaker.


That trap is prone to siphoning.  Against code.

The critical trap arm length prevents the air path from the vent to the trap from being blocked.  If the air path is blocked then the trap can siphon.  The air path from the stack to your trap can be blocked given the weird 90s you have in that configuration.

See image B:

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/fixture_arm-jpg.12270/


For a multi-stage system, which stage is for what fan speed?

Not sure you are giving enough information here to know where to begin to help answer. But I'm going to make some assumptions as I think I know where you are going.

Are we talking about a forced air furnace? I'm assuming so.

Are you meaning to ask "with a variable speed" or "2 speed" or "multi speed" blower motor what is the trigger for the speeds to kick in? Assuming so:

This is going to depend on furnace manufacturer, thermostat model, and the system installer. For example, furnace Control boards and smart/programmable thermostats are programmed to react *(in some cases as a smart-learning mode) to what speeds affect the temperature stability in the home and will self regulate. Large swings in temperature can trigger high speed regardless of program.

Some systems also allow you to set it static, either high, or low. Also, some installations have external temp switches and will only use high speed when the delta temp outside is below or above a set point.

So there are many things that can control fan speed. When it comes to multistage, this can be referring to dual heating units, or different set points for BTU generation.


Though it's not quite the answer you're looking for, the Ecobee3 might be worth considering. It has remote sensors, and you can control which sensors are active as part of the schedule.

I mainly bought this to keep the upstairs (and baby's room, in particular) at a better temperature at night, which works extremely well. It's also helped keep a better balance between the front and back side of the house, which has large south-facing windows -- though I think that's actually more due to the ability to run the fan for a minimum number of minutes per hour.

I have no affiliation with this product or company, I'm just a satisfied customer.


The number of circuits isn't really the issue. You could run as many as the panel will allow, number of breaker positions. The issue is amps to the panel. You've got 40 amps to use and as long as you don't exceed that for any length of time (you'd trip your 40 amp breaker)' you'll be fine. I'd say three would be fine Think of your house panel; you've got a 200 amp service but if you total up the breaker amps, you could get 450. This is OK because you don't run everything at the same time and the circuits aren't fully loaded.


Can an HRV replace the air exhausted by a range hood?

Are you going to run your kitchen hood exhaust through your HRV? I don't think that is an approved configuration because of the grease in the exhaust. Let's assume you don't for the 2nd part of this answer.

An HRV tries to recover heat from air exhausted through the HRV and use it to warm incoming air. When running your kitchen hood, no air will be exhausted through the HRV so the HRV will be acting like an open window: fresh air will come in through it but it will not be warmed.

During a cold winter, I assume you would find this situation (cold outside air distributed through your house) to be uncomfortable and undesirable.

All the literature I have seen assumes you want to take the cold outside air, hundreds of CFM, and heat it up to 70F so that you can turn around and blow it outside. Equipment capable of doing this is expensive and it seems wasteful of energy.

In my house, I have two windows right next to the hood and I just open the windows when I use the hood. Outside air comes in, mixes with the cooking fumes and goes right out. Standing in front of the range is a little colder than the rest of the house but at the same time, you have the heat from the range so it's not a big deal in my experience.

The bottom line is to consider if you want to heat your makeup air and if not, bring it in as close to the hood as possible, but in a way that helps capture the cooking fumes and doesn't just bypass the range.