Reduce risk of harm from electric storm in hot tub in covered area

As I read your question, you're looking for protection against a lightening strike during a very rare electrical storm. I'm going to assume you're looking for personal protection more than full on protection for your house/electronics/etc - things can be replaced, people, not so much, but that protection for the things would be a definite bonus.

I live in the Midwest US. 99.999% of the electrical storms we get (and we get a lot of 'em) come with rumbling thunder from distant lightening long before we get any strikes anywhere near us. When you hear the thunder, party's over - get out and move inside. NOW! Watch the show from a window if you want to watch. (I'll often watch distant lightening from our covered, generally dry front porch, it can be quite spectacular! But, once it starts getting close, I head inside.)

Some "pop-up thunderstorms" do happen. Those are the 0.001% not covered above. Just get out as quickly as possible and head inside.
If a strike really does come out of nowhere and hits your house/pergola/hot tub, there's really not much you can do about it.

Install a properly grounded/earthed lightning rod on the top of the house/highest point around. A proper lightning rod (system, more than one rod may be necessary) will most likely attract most of the strikes that come near your house and will properly dissipate the charge into the ground instead of you, your house and your electric devices.


How to stop cold air from coming into the house

For the bottom, you need to install a (or replace the existing) door bottom (Yeah, someone was really inventive with that name).  The thing goes on the bottom of the door and will fill the gap there.

There are 2 general types, ones with vinyl fins (like this) or ones with short brushes (like this).  I personally find the latter work better, though if you have a large gap, the brush type may not be long enough to fill the gap fully, though a gap that large likely means your threshold is improperly sized.


A 1" to 16" slope is huge.  that would mean a 10 " drop in apx 13 feet.  Did you mean 1" in 16 feet?  Regardless, the fact that you are asking the question indicates that you need a professional to take a look.  There are many possible reasons from maybe the cut center beam, collapsing or crushing support posts(top or bottom), settled footings, etc.  This is a common situation in very old houses, especially ones built on stone foundations. A simple answer would be to jack and support the offending beam(s) to restore a level floor, *however*several other factors need to be considered before jacking can be done. Factors like chimney/roof coupling, door and window reactions, tile floors, millwork/trim, plumbing connections........the list goes on. Find a competent general contractor that has experience  working on older homes. That person should be able to determine the root cause, then formulate a plan to fix the problem. To buy the house or not might be determined by the repair costs and advise this person gives you. I would also have a complete home inspection done before even considering making an offer to buy this house.


Over here in the Netherlands we have the same problem.
Simply connect the Neutral and switch wire to the armature and if no earth wire is available leave the one from the armature disconnected.

Most probably you have earth fault detection breakers in the switchboard.

That is the case if you find a small button on the breaker.
Most probably you can find also the remark of 0,03A or 30 mA.

In such cases the breaker trips if there is a defect resulting in more than 30 mA difference in current from the line to the neutral.


Can I use an extension cord for a mini fridge?

An extension cord

is usually lighter gauge than house wiring
introduces an additional connection, another opportunity for reduced voltage
the connection may be exposed to dust and/or liquids
the connection can easily be loosened exposing open, live conductors
the connection may be in a place more accessible to children, pets, falling metallic debris, vehicle tires, etc.

The lighter gauge wire may lower the life of the fridge's motor by not providing full voltage especially during motor starting.  In severe (though rare) cases, the light gauge wire could be a fire hazard if the fridge runs especially hard, like when an overabundance or lack of refrigerant oil causes the pump to work hard.

In commercial and industrial sites (at least around here), fire inspectors require immediate removal of extension cords from anything vaguely permanent looking.

If your kegerator is going to be in use for some time, why not install a real outlet in the right place for it?  In a garage or utility area, the wall doesn't (usually—depending on your wife) have to be perfectly patched.  The wire, outlet, box, nails, etc., won't set you back more than about $15.


I would consider doing the following:

Replace the damaged rail with a piece of wood of similar species and dimensions. Or, if the existing rail is solid wood, repair the rail using a shorter piece of new timber using a scarf joint. If the existing rail is some sort of composite/laminate/chipboard, it likely may not be feasible to repair in this way.

Your existing rail looks like it might be some sort of composite with a complex cross section - but the replacement or repair part only needs to look the same on the outside and make contact with the other parts supported by the original rail. If you are just repairing the end you may not need to make an exact match in areas that don't show and don't support anything.

Drill it to accept the bolt you have, or just screw on a sturdy L plate
    (sometimes sold as mending plates)

The metal bolt and nut you have are typical of flat-pack furniture. You just have to drill two suitable holes that meet and that start in the right places. This shouldn't be too hard.


Best way to fix excess stain on hard wood floor? Or just poly it?

Your picture reveals, to my eyes, an unfortunate situation. The areas where the sun is illuminating the finish reveals that you did not sand enough, the original finish remains and that is the cause of the uneven absorption of the stain. If you really want it to look right you will need to start over, this time spending more time with the sandpaper, particularly the initial coarse paper. For even staining you need to remove all of the existing surface treatment. Sorry... it might help if you rent a drum or vibrating floor sander from a reputable tool rental shop.


How can I repair a rusting dishwasher tray?

The racks in virtually all dishwashers are unique to the particular models from each manufacturer. In other words no standardization.

It is possible to imagine that it may be possible to clean up the rust and corrosion on the wires of the rack. Doing so would require removal of the plastic coating that covers the afflicted area. After you get it all cleaned up you would have to apply a new coating to the wires that would also bond to the rest of the existing wire coating.

It is possible to purchase the plastic coating material specifically for this type of repair.


Is there such thing as joint-compound primer? And, is there a need to prime before texturing a ceiling?

Do not prime the drywall before it is taped and sanded. Do all your drywall work first, then apply your textured coating. Normally there is no reason to prime the new drywall or joints before putting on a compound based textured top coat.  If you intend to use a textured paint instead of a compound based texture, then you would prime the entire surface with a PVA drywall sealer/primer before applying any paint coat.  Assuming the texture is compound based, then let it dry completely and prime this with PVA sealer/primer before painting.  Do not use a regular heavy based primer or paint/primer product on your texture. Use PVA. The reason is that PVA is very light and dries extremely fast and if applied properly won't re-hydrate or saturate you texture causing possible damage. Once the PVA is cured, (usually just an hour or so) you can paint over it with regular latex paint without fear of texture falling off.


New paint cracking on caulk bead along exterior trim and j-channel flashing

Maintenance-free siding materials are typically installed with a loose-fastener arrangement because they're floating and move a lot with temperature. It's not common to see caulk against the various components for this reason. What you're seeing is somewhat expected due to stretch in the caulk.

Your siding is a protective and aesthetic covering over a "drain plane", usually a layer of house wrap or similar. This provides the ultimate protection against water infiltration. The drain plane normally includes adhesive or metal flashing to door and window flanges.

By the way, the siding and channel are probably steel. Aluminum isn't often used for siding anymore, as it's fairly soft and more expensive.


How can I force hot air through this fireplace grate?

Best bet on the duct is that it's an outside air supply, so any air from it would go into the firebox, not out the front.

Applying fans to fuel-burning appliances in ways not intended by the manufacturer can cause problems, up to and including death by carbon monoxide, or burning down your house.


One possibility to consider is that it is the outlets themselves that have failed and that there is still live mains wiring in the electrical box behind the outlet. One scheme would be to attempt to see if a non-contact electrical tester probe can detect the live wire in the box. If so you can use a process of elimination to see which circuit breaker removes the live connection from the electrical box. You may need to do this process separately for each of the outlets as they may very well be on separate circuits.

The outlets may have failed for any number of reasons. The first likely candidate is that they were connected to the wiring using the back stab holes on the outlet. These are a known failure point and in your case the temperature cycling that occurs over time may have contributed to the back stab failure. When you replace such outlets it is highly recommended to not use the back stab style of connection and instead connect the wires using the screw terminals on side.

Another failure possibility could be similar to something I personally experienced. In my case an exterior outlet quit working and there was no detectable live wire in the electrical box. Obviously the process of elimination as described above did not work to determine the circuit breaker. It was not until months later that I discovered that the outlet was wired into the load side of a GFCI type outlet located in an obscure part of my garage. That GFCI had tripped for some unknown reason and resetting it restored operation to my external outlet!!


50AMP GFCI to Double Pole Switch with 6AWG

You can do A LOT of things, if your sub panel is actually "sized" for it. If your sub panel is 100 Amps, then yes, you can do that hot tub. But first things first.


Better, not Perfect way to Insulate Uninsulated Attic Space in older Home

Going from no insulation at all to some insulation is indeed going to pay back, and will pay back faster than more insulation - going from R1 to R10 saves you ~90% - going from R1 to R50 saves you ~98%, so the difference between R10 and R50 is only saving an additional 8% over the R1 case, even though it's saving ~80% over the R10 case.
...so some IS (much) better than none.
Get rid of the K&T.
What you insulate with after that is up to you. Batts are conceptually easy, but my looking into choices has shown a fair amount of issues with air leakage around the edges of batts, and things like the lap joint shown in the third picture cause issues, as will any other non-standard spacing. You can fuss with cutting batts to try and address those, or you can go with some form of loose insulation, such as cellulose blown in that easily accommodates irregularities in spacing and framing offsets. Foam (board or spray) tends to be relatively high priced, though it can fit more insulation (value) in a fixed space. Save it for where that matters to you. In the attic you can usually just pile more on unless you are trying to have a floor up there.
Opinions vary and are stridently held, but cellulose may also remove the need for a vapor barrier, according to some sources. If your climate is primarily heating, vapor barrier (if used) goes next to the ceiling. If primarily cooling, on top. "The warm side" on average.
For what you want to achieve (30% savings) you can probably ignore the small sections of dormer and avoid ripping plaster for now. Do the easy parts first. Come back to the rest later. And yes, do consider hiring the job out, it may not cost too much more.


Why can't an encapsulated and dehumidified crawl space have vents sealed off?

The reality of code is that it is written by a group of people who are influenced by tradesmen, lobbyist groups, government organizations, etc. Is the international residential code always going to allow for all acceptable solutions to all scenarios in all locations where it applies? Not by a long shot. They pick and choose methods, sometimes get things right, sometimes wrong (and hopefully fixed in a future revision as has historically been the case with a lot of requirements for basement insulation techniques).
If some new doohicky comes along where a company stands to make a lot of money from a code change to allow the use of the doohickey, a company can lobby the council in charge of the code (or if it’s a large company, they may have a sitting member on the council) and possibly get their special interest addressed.
Without official published reasoning behind the code being the way it is, the best we can do is speculate.
So, right or wrong, here is my speculation:
I think this scenario is uncommon enough to date where the council has currently settled on an “all unfinished” or “all finished” approach to the treatment of crawl spaces. You could make a similar argument about requirements for attic spaces.
I think one of the primary reasons could be that a standalone dehumidifier like you are suggesting is a small appliance not usually installed by a builder as part of new builds where air conditioning equipment is (toaster vs oven kind of thing). Since the dehumidifier is not built in, you could move out and take your dehumidifier with you and then the next homeowner would be none the wiser that a dehumidifier is required. Therefore, I think the requirements are in place to ensure the space will be addressed passively by vents or addressed actively by something expected to be a permanent fixture of the home that you or a future homeowner will notice if it stops working (a homeowner would likely notice if the furnace or air conditioning fails).
It is what it is for now, but if you or the wifi dehumidifier lobbyist group wants to go to bat, you could see a change in the next revision of the code itself.
Another option, depending on your plans and locality, you could always request special dispensation from the Authority Having Jurisdiction (e.g. local building department) and they might grant you an exception.
Also, you didn’t quote code verbatim and I do think there might some wiggle room for using a zoned air conditioning approach where the crawl space could technically be a different air conditioning zone. Again, this is open to interpretation and the Authority Having Jurisdiction has final say.


Why doesn't my 3-way light circuit work in some configurations?

First, be clear on how 3-way circuits work.  Now it's really hard to be clear in a diagram or junction box full of Egyptian spaghetti (red white black green).  So we'll fix that -- thusly.

Here is a basic 3-way diagram.  Now this doesn't tell you anything that jsotola's diagram doesn't, except for one thing -- we are adding color to designate wire function.
Black and white are hot and neutral, of course.  Red is a traditional/common color for switched-hot.
The two travelers are different, but interchangeable, so they can be the same color without harm - in this case yellow.  Feel free to use purple or blue if you prefer, just as long as it's unlike anything else in the box.
You can't buy /3 cable in yellow-yellow-white. So we end up using the stock black white red.  And I say re-mark wires using colored tape to designate function.
Based on OP's description and comments, it sounds like there are two /3 cables and two /2 cables coming into a junction box like this:

Here I show the usual black-white-red cable colors, but I also "use tape" to re-mark them by function.  Boy, this makes a big difference in clarity.  This particular box didn't have a big problem with mixed colors, but some do.
Note that by OP's convention, the native-black wire is the one on the "common" (black screw) of the 3-way.
Now, if it's not working, it sounds like your travelers are not set up correctly.  I have a feeling you have them crossed with something else, e.g. At a 3-way for a wire meant for a common terminal.
Tip on 3-ways: look at screw colors.  The location of the common vs. other screws is completely random.  I have held two 3-ways from the same manufacturer in my hand and one of them, the common is upper left, the other, lower left.  WTH?  I've been tempted to try to collect all 12 combinations!


How do I drill a mortise and tenon joint so I can reinforce it with a dowel?

The simplest solution is to drill the dowel hole after you fit the joint together.

Fit the joint and make sure everything's square and true, then drill straight through the mortice and tenon in one go and insert the dowel. Chisel/plane and sand it flush and you should be good to go.

Making a mark on the outside of the mortice where you want to drill will ensure you get the location right.


LED light bulbs, RFI, and garage door opener

Chamberlain has a PDF guide listing LED bulb compatibility, which includes your unit.  More specifically, it lists:

|-----------|---------------------------------|--------------|
|           |                                 | Incandescent |
| Make      | Model                           | equivalent   |
|-----------|---------------------------------|--------------|
| Phillips  | 425256                          |      40w     |
| ECO SMART | ECS A19CW 60W E120              |      60W     |
| ECO SMART | ECS GP19 W27 40WE FR 120 DG 2PK |      40W     |
| CREE      | BA19-04527OMF-12DE26-2U100      |      40W     |
| 3M        | RRA19B4                         |      60W     |
| Sylvania  | 72554                           |      60W     |
| FEIT      | BPAG800DM-LED                   |      60W     |
| FEIT      | R20_DM_LED                      |      45W     |
|-----------|---------------------------------|--------------|

That guide is from January 2014, so more bulbs may be compatible, but it doesn't look like they've issued anything more recent.


shop vac operation - is the filter required if you bag?

The filter is going to provide a means for the bag to not get sucked into the vacuum motor inlet. I have nearly the same machine as shown in the video and when the filter is removed, there is enough open space that the bag would block the inlet. One might think that should not matter, as the bag is porous, but what will happen is that small diameter opening will collect all the debris, quickly clogging the machine.

A very effective alternative to clogged filters and consumable vacuum bags is a cyclone-type chamber prior to the vacuum. There are disadvantages to having a second assembly, of course, but it creates a separation suitable to keeping the filter clean.


Will a Broan 750 fit in the same cutout as a NuTone 8664RP?

I haven't worked with these exact units but they should have pretty similar requirements. I was able to find a diagram on the Broan website for the 750 that allowed me to extrapolate the size of the cutout.

Bear in mind there's a bit of margin for error in this trick but as you can see, the diameter of the cutout would be roughly 13 1/2". You may have to ream out your drywall a bit but that's better than having a hole that's too big. And remember your grill is 15" so you'll have aprx. 3/4" of fudge room all around. In all likelihood the drywall cutout won't be an issue, but you'll probably have to modify the blocking to accept the new unit, which (as long as your framing is as it should be) won't be too much hassle.


Best way to move/extend wall-mounted outlets when finishing basement?

This is so easy, you'll laugh.

unfish the cable out of the last segment of conduit
pull the conduit off the wall
use a conduit bender to put a slight S- curve in the conduit,  so it's out from the wall 4.5" more than it was.
put the conduit back on the wall
fish the cable back in. It will still reach! It is still the same length as the conduit.

Now, the junction box is 4.5" proud of the wall, and 1" or so higher up the wall.   Build your wall, make sure to include a hard point to mount the junction box.


Help with electrical plan. What's right, wrong, suggestions?

Assuming that the S's represent switches to control the lights, here are my thoughts...

Generally, you do not want your lighting on the same circuit as outlets in the same room. That way if you trip a breaker with a plugged in device, your lights don't go out. This is especially helpful when trying to do the wiring itself because if the outlets and lights are on separate circuits, then you can have the overhead lights on while you are wiring the outlets, and you can plug in lights while you are wiring the overhead lights.

If you don't have a nearby lighting circuit available, you will either have to add one to your breaker panel, or you will have to get approval from your electrical inspector or local code authority to use the existing outlet circuit.

The new best practice is that the power for lights enters the box with the switch, then it goes to the lights. (And in some places, this is code.) It's not clear from your diagram if that is what you intend to do.
From your diagram, it's not clear that you understand how 3-way and 4-way switched lighting circuits work. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiway_switching#More_than_two_locations or consult a professional.
For stairs, you must be able to turn on the ceiling lights from both the top and the bottom. I can't tell from your diagram if you plan on doing this, or if the existing lighting already does this. Since you're messing with the lighting in the area, the electrical inspector may insist on this, even if you aren't actually touching that lighting.


How many soil stacks should a house have?

The International Residential Code requires only one vent per building.

However, all plumbing internal to the building must be tied into the roof vent. This can be accomplished with PVC (depending on your local codes) running from one vertical stack to another at least 6" above the flood rim of any fixture. In this case the attic works fine.

They cannot be cutoff and capped. Then the fixtures being served would not have a vent.

The requirement for a fixture to be within a certain distance of a vent is a different subject than whether that vent goes all the way through the roof. All vertical vent stacks must be tied together and taken to the main building vent or taken through the roof separately. Sometimes it is easier to run another roof vent than to run all the way across the building to the main vent.

As always check with your local inspector to determine if they are using the IRC or the Uniform Plumbing Code which has different requirements.

Good luck!


This seems to be a well documented maintenance procedure. I don't know much about fire extinguishers, but a quick internet search presented the following information:

Six-Year Maintenance
Every six years, stored pressure fire extinguishers that require a
12-year hydrostatic test (e.g. dry chemical extinguishers) must be
emptied and proper maintenance procedures performed [see NFPA 10(98),
Sec. 4-4.3]. The exception to this rule is nonrechargeable
extinguishers, which are required to be removed from service 12 years
from the date of manufacture. Again, this maintenance must be
performed by an approved extinguisher servicing company.

So it seems if the extinguishers are of the type that require a 12 year hydrostatic test, this appears to be a legitimate maintenance requirement. I guess it would also depend on if your locale requires you to follow the above referenced NFPA standard document or not.


Any ideas on hiding a TV in a coffee table?

Something like this?
http://www.justlaine.com/2011/01/17365.html

It wouldn't be too difficult to make.  For a 50" TV, you'll have to build a big one.


renovating a bathroom to add wet room for tub & shower

The size sounds large enough for a shower. Have you thought about a ceiling mounted shower? The shower coming straight down there may be less splashing compared to a wall mounted shower. I usually install 2" shower drains but have installed 1-1/2". I find the size of the drain opening like a larger 4" square grate compared to a standard 2" round makes the biggest difference with a shallow pan or slope, more area less water back up.


Shower Valve / Diverter pipe thread size

(USA - likely different in places that use other thread forms, of course) The valve is usually 1/2" FIPT, so the PEX adapter you'd need would be a 1/2" MIPT (and at the showerhead end you'll want a PEX - 1/2" FIPT Drop Ear Elbow so you can affix the shower arm attachment to the framing.)

Of course, you could actually buy a particular shower valve and know for sure.


What are these called for tightening rope wire?

I used the terms "swaged wire rope end fittings" as it's reasonably clear that there's wire rope involved. The crimping on the fitting is called swaging and the rest was up to The Google.

Most of the returns were incorrect. Perhaps the terms aren't the best, but at least one manufacturer used them for their product.

Another term that came from expanding the search is wire rope threaded end or wire rope threaded stud, although that's somewhat redundant.

The images that return from the search show both rotary swaging and bolt-cutter-type swaging and some with none at all, as seen in the drawing above.

I would expect that to enable tightening of the wire rope, one would desire a left-hand thread at one end and a right-hand thread at the other, or else one would have to pre-wind the opposite direction, then insert the stud into the fitting.


How to use 30 AMP wire to make 120 outlet

yes You can turn this into a 15 or 20 amp receptacle possibly even 2 circuits depending on how many wires in the cable.
If there is Black, white and a ground you will need to move the wires around in the panel but a legal 15 or 20 amp 120v circuit can be set up.

If this is a main panel
Put the white on the neutral bus or the ground bus (if white and bare copper are on the same bus(es) either one, of your white wire is too short a splice of white wire long enough to reach the bus is ok. I don’t like changing wire size but if you use the 15 amp breaker you have 14 awg white is ok, if you go for a 20 amp breaker, 12 awg white will be needed.

Next you will need a receptacle, I prefer spec grade back and side they cost a bit more but as most 15 amp receptacles the number 10 wire should fit under the screws.

Wire the white to the silver screw, the black to the brass colored screw and the bare copper to the green screw.

If your cable happens to have 4 wires you could create a multi wire branch circuit (2 circuits) but most water heaters are wired with 3 wires.

Using larger wire is ok and in this case it should fit a receptacle (30 amp wire is normally 10 awg) but could be larger and in that case you would need to pigtail to smaller wire at the receptacle and possibly the breaker.

Update: the op said 25 amp breaker in comment while I was typing the breaker would need to be down sized to feed a standard receptacle. The max breaker is 20 amp and would require a 15 amp duplex receptacle. And 12 awg pig tail if needed.


Proper R-Value/insulation type for between living space and attic area above garage?

For purposes of insulation, a wall common to conditioned and unconditioned spaces should be treated as any exterior wall. Modern standards would be R-19 fiberglass batts (or R-13 for older 2x4 walls), or something modestly above that with spray foam.

Assuming a proper firewall (5/8" type X gypsum panels, joined over framing members), no special material is needed for the insulation.


You cannot really tell what is load bearing or not just from pictures of finished space. Your best bet would be if there were blue prints of the original build of the house to to analyze. Walls perpendicular to joists can very well be load bearing if there are joist that span to that partition and then overlap with another that extends to the next supporting wall.
There could be other factors to consider such as these for some examples:

Shorter joists were used in some instances so that they could take more load from the floor above.
The wall may be located directly under a partition wall on the floor above that is itself a supporting wall.


Can I season firewood over the woodstove?

Proper seasoning is going to take longer than that. Most experts recommend you buy green firewood in the spring, to let it season in the rack over the summer. A minimum of 6 months' drying time, leaving it exposed to the sun and protected from moisture, is needed to "cure' firewood.

DO NOT burn your green firewood. It will smoke, smoulder and not heat the chimney properly for good draft, so you'll get backdrafts into your home. I had this problem even with seasoned but dampened logs from my rack outside; the wood wouldn't burn properly even with a nice hot bed of coals under it, and we got a lot of smoke coming out the front of the fireplace (and up into the upper story of our house).


Can I run a toilet drain on the exterior of my house?

In Illinois this wouldn't be a problem provided it adheres to everything on this list and fits these numbers. Your concern may be that the stack is not a clear vertical run to the roof or that the toilet flange will be more than 24" from it.

My codes expect 4" stacks to begin with. A lot of people seem to get away with 3".

  b) Minimum Size of Building Drain, Horizontal Branches, Drainage Piping

  1) The minimum size of any gravity building drain shall be 4 inches in >diameter.
  -Code


Is insulation necessary under slab with hydronic radiant heat?

If you want to do radiant infloor heating you will need to insulate under the slab. If you don't you will constantly be rejecting heat to the ground underneath the slab, and it will suck excess heat out of the system.  If your not going to insulate beneath the slab, abandon the idea of radiant infloor.

Your also going to have to use HE Pex for radiant infloor. Standard waterline Pex is not allowed for hydronic heating systems.


How NOT to use a power drill. What are common mistakes that should be avoided?

Some other helpful hints (not from Heloise)

0) ALWAYS wear gloves and eye protection. (Note: if you're using one hand to hold down the material being drilled, a glove can reduce injury if the drill bit jams. On the other hand, you should never depend on body parts to hold things in place)

1) When drilling into soft material such as plastic or pine, withdraw the bit periodically to clear out shavings.

2) When drilling into metal or hard materials, use a center punch to give you a starting hole. This avoids "wander" when you start up, and reduces the need to push down hard in an attempt to avoid "wander."

3) Don't put a gigantic size bit (e.g. spade or Forstner types) in a drill not designed for one. The torque required will burn out the motor.

4) Not bad for the drill, but bad for the bits: when using really small diameter bits, be careful and gentle or they'll snap.  If you've got a 3-prong chuck, make sure the drill bit is properly centered before attempting to drill.

Note: it's fine to drill at an angle so long as the applied force is along the shaft of the drill bit.


What is the best way to drywall a basement staircase?

With concrete, the concern is moisture.  Any furring strips should be pressure treated, and I've also seen good suggestions to use the foam barrier that you would typically use under a sill plate as an extra defense, e.g. this stuff (click the photo for the product page):

For pressure treated, make sure any nails are galvanized to avoid the chemical reaction that would eat normal nails. If you're using foam panel insulation, then seal any gaps on the sides. I'd also use a vapor barrier on top of the furring strips, behind the drywall. And finally, for the drywall, use something mold and moisture resistant to avoid future problems. Moist environments are also a good place to use the fiberglass mesh tape, instead of the paper tape, to finish the joints.


Open Refreigerator door trips other breakers

They don't have to be adjacent to be a MWBC sharing a neutral, just on different legs and without handle ties. Handle ties were not always required. Fridge's have been known to trip GFCI breakers. Try switching it to a non GFCI. Why is the adjacent room on a GFCI?  If possible try a regular breaker on that room too.


You're essentially creating an inverted shelf over your microwave. Just adhere to all the principles of mounting a shelf:

Adequately strong brackets
Anchors of appropriate size and depth
Shelf material that's up to the task

I would not use brackets of that type. They don't seem robust enough to me. Heavy gauge steel with a diagonal brace would be your best bet. Two "max brackets" mounted upside down with a 2x6 or 2x8 screwed well to them would do nicely.


Will using a dimmer switch damage a transformer?

If they say they are not for use with a dimmer they mean it. Regardless if you set it at 50% and leave it or whatever. Yes, you will damage the transformers or electronics of the systems if you use them on an incompatible dimmer.

Don't forget, many low-voltage lighting systems can be used with magnetic or electronic low-voltage dimmers. You need to check the manufacturer's specs to be sure.

Lutron, a leader in dimmer technology, has a good explanation here: http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Education-Training/Pages/LCE/DimmingBasics.aspx


How to repair/replace toggle bolt that pulled out of drywall?

See any of the sheetrock/drywall repair questions for how to fix the hole in the sheetrock/drywall. Here's some:

first time drywall repair

How to fix a large hole in drywall

But you might first want to make a much bigger hole in the sheetrock (no worries, a big big hole is no more trouble to fix than a big small one - in fact the typical method to fix a fairly large small hole in the sheetrock is to cut a square that reaches to the framing on both sides of the hole) and insert some wood framing to take the screw, since you are clearly putting on a lot of force with these "not heavy" drapes and rod, if it keeps ripping out.


Should I use solid concrete or cement block for an egress window well?

Properly built cement-block walls are incredibly strong.  They're mortared for vertical stability and wire stretched between layers for horizontal stability.  As long as it's thick enough to hold the weight of the ground, then that's a fine solution.  Actually, I'd find the minimum required for support and then go one step thicker.

Water will collect in this depression.  Make sure it has some kind of sufficient drainage or you could end up with water coming in through your window.  12" of gravel at the base may be enough depending on the type of soil underneath -- check your local building codes.


First, you are right, you have to change the breaker to 15A.  The "last guy" may have bumped it to 20A to stop breaker trips, e.g. if it's a high-power dishwasher.  Check the dishwasher's documentation to see if it requires a 20A circuit.

Second, you have to check its docs anyway.  If the hardwired dishwasher requires more than 50% of the 15A circuit (that's 900W) then there can't be any receptacles at all on the circuit.

Third, dishwashers (today) need a disconnect switch.   Yours may be grandfathered.  The simplest disconnect switch is to cord-and-plug-connect the dishwasher.  At that point you're plugging into a power socket, and guess what! The 50% rule goes away!  Converting the dishwasher to cord-and-plug kills 2 birds with 1 stone.

Also, some of those devices probably need GFCI.  You may hit an installation issue where you need both a GFCI and a switch (which is not the GFCI itself).  They actually make that in a combo device, it provides those + a single receptacle also!   (that single recep is useless, because you aren't going to pull your dishwasher cord up through your kitchen countertop, now are you?  But you can use it for coffeemaker, toaster, or other countertop appliances).

That lets you split the feed to the under-cabinet receptacle(s) for dishwasher and disposal, and further, to provide GFCI protection to either or both as required.  That way, the dishwasher recep is unswitched (you can always unplug it), and the disposal recep is switched.


Does voltage play any role in choosing the appropriate wire gauge?

The simple answer is you use the wire that your local code and the device manufacturer specifies for the situation.

But I think you are asking about how wire sizes are chosen for a particular application/current/voltage combination:

When choosing wire, current dictates the size of the conductor and voltage dictates the insulation.

Current causes the wire to heat up due to resistance. Metal expands and contracts when heated and cooled. This expansion and contraction, if too large, can loosen connections. Loose connections increase resistance, cause more heating, and will eventually allow a gap large enough to cause an arc or a high enough temperature to ignite surrounding materials or melt the insulation and cause an arc. A larger conductor reduces the resistance, which reduces these temperature changes. Therefore, using a large enough conductor keeps the expansion and contraction under the level that electrical fittings can tolerate without failing.

Similarly, voltage causes arcing so the covering (insulation) has to be designed to prevent arcing at the rated voltage. Usually you'll see common electrical wiring rated for 600 volts.

Another reason to use larger gauge wiring is to prevent voltage drop on long runs. This is generally not a problem when running wire in a house, but detached structures are a common place to see larger wire used.


Is it possible to wire switch outlet combo on switch loop?

Your switch on the left has the HOT Wire coming in to it. The two blacks - one of those blacks is a jumper to the other switch.

The White wires are not neutrals otherwise when you flip the switch you would have a dead short between hot and neutral and your CB should trip!

The wiring violates code!

The box looks like a DIY'er installed it - and that would explain the wiring.

Normally - your hot run would come into the box (3-wires black, white and copper in a jacket :  Romex wire) from the Circuit breaker panel or as part of a loop.  You would then have 2 sets of Romex (jacketed wire - 3 wires in a  jacket)  going out from that box to each light.

Inside your box the whites would be tied together with a wire nut and the grounds would be tied together with a wire nut.

You would have the hots (black wires) Black from CB panel on bottom screw of switch - with the black jumper to the bottom screw of the other switch, and a black from your outside light 1 to the top screw of switch 1, and a black from your outside light 2 to the top screw of switch 2.

What this means is those outside lights are wired wrong as well - just looking at the wiring - as sharp minded Harper pointed out current is probably carried by the ground! - I would say he is right on point too - because a DIY'er went cheap with the wire runs - that is why those whites are being used as hots! Now I will bring up something else - the hot coming in to this box might be fed from another nearby circuit - near to the outside light or near to the switches there - either way probably SCREWY!

Now to add an additional outlet to that box as part of a combo - First FIX your wiring to be correct according to proper practices and CODE. Then you can put a combo switch/outlet in the place of one of those switches. You should be able to do this with 3 Romex cables - 1 From box to Light 1, 1 From box to Light 2, 1 From CB panel (or from a loop) to Box.


Can Wet and Forget be used in a basement?

No. From their FAQ:

  Can I use Wet & Forget indoors?

  Wet & Forget is specially formulated for outdoor use and requires
  exposure to the weather to work properly. For indoor use, we recommend
  Wet & Forget Indoor Mold+Mildew Disinfectant Cleaner.

See:  Wet and Forget FAQ


To follow up, I did use a sledge hammer to pound them into place. I placed a small cut piece of the 6x6 on top to prevent the post from getting messed up. It wedged it in there quite well.


Is there a splice in your T'stat wiring? Your color scheme is not matching up. Also you've landed a wire in your t'stat on your "Y" terminal but it is not landed on your power source and the "C" is landed on you power source and is not mounted on you T'stat.

I would suggest you run a completely new thermostat wire and reconnect matching color and code.


Can I tap into my hot water heater circuit for an exhaust fan and a extra plug?

No.

The water heater needs a dedicated circuit, and most likely uses a higher amperage fuse or breaker which can't be used for normal 120v outlets.


How to Rewire Powered Switch Controlling Half Hot Switched Outlet to Power Outlet as Always On and Control/Power Recessed Lighting

Simply cap off the red wire at the receptacle and the switch, using a twist-on wire connector. Then replace the receptacle with a new one, that doesn't have the tab broken between the ungrounded (hot) terminals. On the new receptacle, connect only the black, white, and ground wires.

Now the receptacle will always be hot, and the switch will be unused. This will allow you to use the switch for your new lights instead. Just connect the black wire going to your lights to the switch, and the white to the other white wires in the box.


Tilt and turn door brushes against the reveal

After you've turned the adjuster more than a small number of times, consider to grasp firmly the door and attempt to move it up and down. If there is paint or rust on the moving parts, they may have become bonded and require outside force (you) to move in the manner desired.


It was easier than I expected. It is held by magnets, you just have to pull down on it and it will come off. Twisting it is a bad idea as it rotates the entire lamp block and wires.


How to make a reverse bend in a sheet metal box

Unless you have a brake that has fingers or the clamping bar has removable plates you are still going to have a problem folding the third fold of the other three.

If you are able to do normal four sided box folds then for the reverse flap you would have the option to make a normal box and then attach a separate plate to one side to create the riser flap. This could be attached with welding, spot welding, rivets or sheet metal screws.


Welcome to the Magic 8-ball:

Harper calls these the Magic 8-Ball because they sometimes produce meaningless, seemingly random, results. But for straightforward wire swaps they are exactly the tool to use.
These testers make what you found out the hard way a bit easier - i.e., you can plug them into each 120V receptacle to very quickly find out what is going on. What you have would be described by one of these testers as Hot/Ground reverse.
The normal setup is:

A (wide slot) = Neutral
B (narrow slot) = Hot
C (hole) = Ground

You normally have:

A-B = Neutral to Hot = 120V
A-C = Neutral to Ground = 0V
B-C = Hot to Ground = 120V

There are a lot of different things that can go wrong. The most common things are simply wires connected in the wrong places. If Hot and Ground are reversed then you will get:

A-B = 0V (Neutral to Ground)
A-C = 120V (Neutral to Hot)
B-C = 120V (Ground to Hot).

With this specific combination, 2-prong devices will not work but at least will be safe (no voltage, so no current) and 3-prong devices will not work and will not be safe.
To fix:

Turn off breaker
Check color of wires going to breaker, neutral, ground (they will all be "together" either in one cable (Black = hot/White = neutral/bare = ground) or in conduit (color = hot, white/grey = neutral, bare or green = ground or no ground if metal conduit). If the colors don't seem right here (white to the breaker or any color other than white to the neutral or anything other than green or bare to the ground bar) then stop and upload pictures before continuing.
If the breaker seems OK, next step is to open up each receptacle on this circuit and check the wiring. In each case, black or other color (not white or green) should be to the brass screws, white to the silver screws and green or bare to the ground screw.

You will likely find at least one receptacle wired incorrectly. Fix it and then test with a multimeter, though in this case using a Magic 8-Ball tester will speed up the process as this is right on target for that type of tester.


What material should a year-round green house in high elevation be made of?

Wood will likely rot over time exposed to the higher humidity of a greenhouse.  I'd also stay away from treated lumber, I'd be afraid of it leaching unwanted chemicals into the soil, especially is you are eating products planted in it.  It might be OK if you keep away from direct ground contact, e.g. with a concrete apron, but it's not what I'd use.

Ideally you'd want to use a vinyl-coated metal or PVC framing.  Bare aluminum framing will work, but will conduct heat like crazy in a way you don't want.  Basically anything that's corrosion resistant, decay resistant, and insulates reasonably well.  There's no way you're going to have a greenhouse that is insulated anywhere near as well as a framed structure, but doing what you can to mitigate unwanted thermal transfer will help keep heating costs down.

While glass is pretty, it doesn't insulate well and exposes plants to direct sunlight that, without significant airflow, can create hotspots and scorch plants.  Diffuse lighting is better, though you get reduced light transmission and can't see outside you'll provide a more consistent quality of light to your plants over the course of the day.  You'll want to consider carefully whether your are more concerned with aesthetics (transparent materials) or functionality (diffuse, translucent materials)

I'd recommend polycarbonate multiwall sheeting for your exterior cladding.  It comes in a wide variety of styles and can provide the best R-values (insulating factors) of any transparent or translucent greenhouse material.  You can likely find some variety that will meet your needs in terms of light transmission, R-value, and cost.

Greenwall Solutions Inc. offers a variety of polycarbonate multiwall sheeting.

This isn't an endorsement one way or the other of this company, I really don't know anything about them, but it is a good example of what you can find.

Search on Google for "Polycarbonate multiwall panels" and you'll find a variety of vendors.


Square D QOC 12 125: Is it possible to bring this subpanel up to code?

New subpanel time

The reason is, there are several structural issues with how this panel is mounted, so it has to come out anyway.   So you might as well put a proper panel in here. And believe me, it'll be a relief!

The structural issues are:

Sheath not extending far enough into panel for most Romex circuits.
The panel doesn't even have a ground bar, and it's a subpanel
insanely overfull neutral bar, even before the green grounds were added
cables entering without clamps at all
Box setback from wall surface; it's ok with switches but you're seriously not allowed to do that with service panels what were they thinking?

Separately from that, the panel is way too darn small, and I know this has been impacting your project, in ways that you've just been working around up til now.  Like the insanity with the bathroom outlet feeding a lot of other stuff, I'm sure there's a lot of that going on.  I mean the subpanel got put in in the first place because the main panel was full;  and it's full too. Not good.   You should always have loads of extra space.

You need to make the call on size, but we beat the drum hard for Big Big Big.  I for one like to see around 48 spaces between both panels. Absent better information I would call for a 30-space.  Space not circuit; a 20-space/40-circuit panel only counts as a 20.

A main-lug panel will suffice, and you can mount it inverted if the existing wires will not reach.  Bus amperage doesn't matter.   You can stay with Square D "QO" if you want to reuse your breakers and pay 60% above market for any new breakers.  One advantage of QO and Eaton CH is the breakers are only 3/4" tall, so panels are shorter for the same number of breakers. Either get a panel with included ground bars, or add them.

Retrofit a ground wire between the main panel and subpanel.  The old cable is fine unless you want to up-size it; if you do, go aluminum.

If you keep it

First, keep in mind that work is not necessarily grandfathered merely because it is old.  It's only grandfathered if it was correct at the time it was installed.  Many a dryer and range circuit is run with /2 w/gnd NM cable, which was never legal.

If you look at the list at the top, that's pretty much your punchlist.  First and foremost the panel must be de-installed to move it outward so it 1/16" proud of the wall so the cover can bottom out on the panel body. If you want to have little hatches above and below it for access to the wires, that is fine.  Then it either needs to be repositioned so the sheath of each cable can enter the box by at least 1/4", or you need to terminate those cable runs in a junction box above or below, then bring it on into the panel with a jumper. I prefer to connect the junction box with an EMT conduit nipple (short pipe) of about 2" and bring the wires into the panel proper via the EMT.  You might even be able to do it with existing wire length.

Further, the neutral bar must be addressed.  You can't finish the job with 2 wires in any slot.  Some panel makers allow 3 on ground wires, but nobody allows double-lugging neutrals. I can't see how you can need more than 12 neutrals in a 12-breaker panel, though.  All the grounds need to go, for that and separation reasons.  Quite likely a common Square D ground bar will bolt up to this panel into existing holes, but your Square D dealer will know for sure.

A Square D dealer means a real electrical supply house.  The big box stores don't even own the correct catalogs, let alone have any experience interpreting them.


Energy Monitor Install load center phase connection

This explanation is sufficient, the second breaker is on a separate phase.


After reading the question and all the comments, I have to add a few things.

If in fact what you have are trusses not joists, then you need to know if they are load rated for a floor. Even if the space is only for storage, a rating of 60 to 80 pounds per sq ft is required. Storage can often become a heavier load that a person just walking on the floor.  Also if they are trusses, then the horizontal 2X4 or whatever is used is called a collar tie, not a joist. The key here is find the load bearing surface and size the new joists for the span. In this application with a limited support area will involve the height of the joist end supported. Often a ledger and post may be needed to bear the weight of the joist end. What is needed to really answer the question are accurate dimensions of vertical angle area above the supporting wall, span of the proposed floor etc.  The trusses in this question are probably designed to carry a roof load only, not a live load from a floor. Practically speaking, often sistered joists to collars will carry substantial loads, but the real question is how much and will they meet your local codes. A real concern is the fact that you have an existing ceiling, and any flex from weight above will effect it.

My advice is to get your facts, measurements, and a professional opinion together before you do anything. Photos would help, but without doing the span math etc., no one can give you a viable solution from the info we have.


I suggest you build a well insulated box around the pipe from the ground to the floor of the cabin, then open the box to the cabin interior by replacing the floor over the box with a grille.

The box should be made of masonry or other rot-resistant material. The bottom of the box should be set about a foot or so below ground level for a better seal. I'm picturing a box that is about as wide as it is high.

The top of the box should not be strongly attached to the cabin floor because seasonal freezing and thawing may cause the box to move slightly. Instead, the top of the box should be sealed to the cabin floor with flexible insulating material. For example, a flexible gasket can be made with chicken wire, polyethylene sheet, and fiberglass batting.

Now, cold air is heavier than warm, so you have to keep the box from just filling up with freezing air. How you do this will depend on how the cabin is heated, how airtight the cabin usually is, whether the cabin is kept above freezing at night, etc.

If you can construct a chimney-like structure inside the cabin that is either warmer than the room (because it is near the stove) or colder than the room (because it is against an outside wall) and connect its bottom to the pipe box, that should provide sufficient draft to displace the frigid air.

Of course this solution depends on the cabin being heated in winter. If the cabin is allowed to freeze then you already have the best plan in place with that remote valve.


How to fill a large exterior settlement gap between wall and courtyard

Here's the solution I settled on:

Vacuum out the gap to remove debris.
Stick backer rod in the larger gap areas.
Fill the gap with matching grout.

That closes the gap and mates with the settled flagstone.  If there is future settlement, it shouldn't be as much and any new gap will be small.  That can be filled with clear silicone, which will have some stretch if there is more settlement.  The exposed surface can be dusted with the matching grout before it cures to look like the other grout.


Please help me with temperature alarm system

If the modem is the only problem, replacing it might well solve the problem. As for finding a particular model of old modem at a non-outrageous price - ebay; sometime patience is needed for a very specific model or to get it at a non-absurd price, but generally modems are pretty cheap there.

Where the number is programmed - to be certain, you'd need a serial cable splitter so you can see what's going to the modem (connecting a computer so you can view the traffic between the modem and the controller.) Most likley it's in the controller, and a dialing command is being sent to the modem, but some fancier models of modem did have number-storage abilities, if I dimly recall the state of 15 years ago correctly.

You might very well find that you will be better able to solve the problem with a complete replacement using newer (and currently documented) hardware (telephone dialing temperature alarm or similar for a product search) rather than patching together old equipment - these things become obsolete, and one way to detect that is the absurdly high charge to even look at it.


How do I wire a 240 Volt 500 Watt baseboard heater?

It is safe to assume you mean 500 watt and not 500 amp.

Yes, you should run 12/2 cable from a double-pole 20A breaker to the thermostat and then from there to the heater. This is the easiest way to run this circuit.
Be sure to re-mark the white wire to a "hot" color with tape or easier yet a permanent marker. Use a color like red, blue or black.

Be sure to use a double-pole line-voltage thermostat.


Cable TV, Antenna, Coaxial - what is this thing?

It's an antenna / satellite combiner. Appears to be an aftermarket add-on.

It takes both LNB feeds from the dish, along with the antenna signal, and combines them onto one wire. In this case, it looks like it fed four boxes. Apparently this unit could combine them without a splitter on TV end.

Either way, I wouldn't use it without a satellite dish. A regular signal splitter would suffice.


Multi-circuit transients without breaker trip

Get a different electrician and/or make your power company come back.  It sounds like your losing one leg of your service.

The reason your cooktop control sends it into remission now is that it starts by backfeeding the bad side of your service which heats up the connector that is burning.  The heat (or arc) acts as a temporary weld that makes it work again. For awhile.

The next thing to happen will be that the heat control on your cooktop just acts like a really big dimmer switch for all the circuits that go off when your issue occurs.

Yes, fire is a possibility but it will likely be contained to your meter can or breaker box (possibly a pole or underground connection).


Can a gas dryer be converted into an electric dryer?

In general, no you can't do this.

I suppose it's possible that the manufacturer uses many of the same parts between their gas and electric models and you could buy enough parts to do a conversion, but this would likely cost more than just buying an electric dryer in the first place.

But I've never seen a supported conversion kit - my advice: sell the gas dryer  and buy an electric.


How can I seal the openings for the armrest of this chair nicely?

You could use scissors to cut an oval plastic shape just bigger than the hole, use an old milk carton or soda bottle. Paint it black and set it on the white socket, than slide the plastic cover down over to hold it.

Or... remove the arm assemblies entirely.


Dual HVAC System with Dual UV lights - looking to power UV lights when HVAC runs

The wiring diagram for the Amana unit appears to show a connection for an optional mains-powered electronic air cleaner. This might be just right for your use. You'll have to find literature from the furnace to confirm how much power that connection can support, confirm that terminals you can use are available on the circuit board, and confirm that the power requirement of the UV lamps is compatible with what the furnace control can provide.
The Carrier unit is a little more clear about its support for an electronic air cleaner. The legend printed under the wiring diagram shows terminals EAC-1 and EAC-2 are for powering an air cleaner at 115 V with current up to 1.5 A. I'd guess those terminals are going to be 1/4" blade quick-connect type.
For both systems you'd have to check the manuals, or simply experiment, to discover when the control turns on the EAC output.


Would insulation on my attic walls make it easier to keep my home cool?

Yes, attic insulation will definitely help you. it has to work to reduce the transfer of heat from the roof into the attic spaces and down into the home. Proper attic insulation can reduce this heat transfer by up to 25% or more. attic insulation with an R-factor of at least 19 will help keep the hot attic air from heating your living space. Good luck :)


Floor standing U wood frame built at home - what to use for a 90 degree joint?

As described, there will be huge issues with racking - the tendency for this to want to collapse onto one leg or the other, no matter what fasteners are used.
If you'll take a look at any flat pack furniture, you'll see that they come with a back, often nothing more than cardboard. One might think that the back is provided to keep things from being pushed off the back of the shelves and falling behind the cabinet, but the back is really to prevent the whole thing from collapsing sideways. The fact that it keeps you from pushing your shirts behind the wardrobe is just a bonus.
If you were able to find flat angle brackets:
Image courtesy of walmart.com. First somewhat small image I found for what I was after.
that were long (I'd suggest 12" legs or more), with legs that were only 3/4" wide so that they would hide against the edge of the particle board, then attach them with screws designed for particle board, you might have enough rack resistance to get this to stay upright for a while, but it will still want to sag and warp eventually.
You're going to need serious corner bracing (straight pieces or triangles that connect the top to the legs at about 1/3 the length of the top - roughly 20" across and 20" down) or something like a shelf support bracket or a full on back in order to keep this from collapsing.


Is it code-compliant to attach a patio to the roof like this?

What you have pictured is a typical hip detail. As long as you use proper sized lumber for the span and center dimensions it looks fine. The only thing I see is a lack of metal rafter hangers, bird's mouths and collar ties over the open span. Collar ties are not absolutely necessary if a cathedral design is wanted. basically, it looks OK.  Check your local codes in case they have special requirements in hurricane prone or heavy snow load areas.


What's the best way to shave off 1/8 of an inch from hardie board?

You can use one of those cheese grater looking rasps most people use for drywall. They're called serrated contour planes.

Something like the Stanley Surform Pocket Plane or Stanley Surform Plane-Type

Those tools will be quicker/easier and make less of a mess than using a power saw. Or at least a more controlled mess. You can also use a utility knife with a sharp blade but the rasps are easier to use and safer.


You can run from one can to another in any way that makes sense. Typically this would be done to minimize the cable length. It is easier to run parallel to the trusses and minimize truss crossings (this depends somewhat on your insulation). If you have a single line of recessed can lights this should be an easy run from switch to end, but if you have a grid like I did you should plan the cable route in an S or U shaped pattern.

You can run Romex through fiberglass insulation but you should minimize the runs "through" insulation if possible i.e. don't cut a slot in the insulation and wrap it around the Romex. Poke holes if necessary, insert through it, run over the top or around the side of the insulation. More than Romex interacting with insulation though, be aware of installation safety instructions with the can lights, most of which require minimum clearance between the can and any insulation in the ceiling. LEDs which don't heat up the metal housing quite as much have lower clearance requirements, but be sure to check.

Ecnerwal answered succinctly in a comment:

You don't have to staple when retrofitting in existing construction
where it would be onerously destructive to tear things up so you can
attach cables. NEC 300.4, D, Exception 2


Few thoughts...

I don't recognize it, so can't be directly helpful.

Pa6 is usually just a reference to the plastic; not sure about the ge30 part.

You might get lucky by pulling the existing brush/holder and going to a good repair place to see if they have something you can work with.

Have you checked the switch? Failure there would make this a write-off, even with a positive identification.

I'm not a fan of throwing stuff away, but realistically, grinders are a dime a dozen. You can get a name brand used one for about triple what a set of brushes would cost you. You can get a bargain bin (ie, will only work for a little while) one for about the same as a set of brushes.


Should I use staples or attachment for 6/2 cable?

You can use metal staples, which give you a bit more size flexibility. Just be sure to go forth gently and not crimp the cable jacket at all.

There are staples with plastic caps for that size cable, though.

  Secure ... 8/3 - 6/3 non-metallic sheathed cable... to wood framing


Will the existing supply wire for my 60A subpanel be adequate for a 100A subpanel?

To identify the wire gauge, the best way might be to take the cover off of the breaker box (advise to do this with power off for safety, but power can be left on - proceed at your own risk) and see if there are any indications on the wire sheathing.  If there isn't, use a guide like to identify the gauge of wire.

As for copper vs. aluminum wire, aluminum might be cheaper in larger sizes. However, aluminum requires some special anti-oxident joint compound when you make connections with aluminum wire (see Ideal no-alox for an example of this stuff).  If you don't use the compound, its possible that the connections will fail over time.

EDIT: Using the info you provided in the comments, and the wire voltage drop calculator at http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm, assuming:
 - Single Phase 240V
 - Direct Burial
 - no more than 3% voltage drop
 - 2 AWG aluminum wire
Your wire gauge will allow you to maximum run somewhere in the 75-80 amp range.  I wouldn't go all the way to 100 amps, but 60 amp service should work.  You'll need 1 AWG wire to run 100 amps safely that distance.


Seems very unlikely. Consider that lots of harmful industrial chemicals are used in the production of electronics to begin with.

Usually most people's concerns with VOC's associated with painting have to do with human health, especially the young and old. It's generally best to minimize any contact with these by ensuring lots of ventation and if possible, using a low VOC product. Latex based paints are preferable to oil based paints in this regard.


In a three way switch, why would the "open" traveler wire test at 17VAC

It's capacitively picking up some stray voltage from the hot wire that parallels it.  Your DMM has a high-impedance input so there is no place for that induced voltage to go.  If you were to place a load on the wire, the voltage would go to near 0V as you would expect.

Bottom line: It's normal and this is a case where the sensitivity of the instrument you're using (i.e. the DMM) is fooling you.


Are these remains of electricity meter's anti-tampering seal?

"Sure" - "You can assume yes" - However this does NOT mean someone tampered with it.

Someone has not secured the meter with a new identifying marker that gives a power company or service person indication that no one has touched it since it was last secured.

This doesn't mean it was tampered with, it means as I've noted, someone did not re-secure it.


The wet spot in your street could be from 1) broken waterline, 2) broken storm sewer line, or 3) natural well.

Obviously it’s a rising watertable and appears wet in that location because of the type of “fill” in that location.


Why don't I see more progress when sanding my stair treads?

A vibrating or oscillating sander isn't going to be aggressive enough for that job. It's really only suitable for light finish sanding. You need something that spins, or at least something with a random orbit (more movement).
80 grit is probably a good choice for working through the varnish on your steps but you need the moves only a different type of sander provides or you'll grow old waiting. Part of the problem is that varnish clogs paper grit quickly--it doesn't let go like clean sawdust does.
You might also consider chemically stripping the varnish to hurry the restoration process. Sanding through it can be a real chore.
All that said, if you have the option of temporarily removing your treads, that's what I'd be doing. You'll have a difficult time getting satisfactory results around the edges with them installed. You'll have visible lines from the existing varnish and stain, and you may have visible surface level variation as well. If you can gently pop them out, pull the nails out the back side, and sand or strip fully in a workshop area, that's the ticket.


20A Bathroom Circuit including lights/fan, add outlet for 1300w(max) bidet

Both items are not continual use and even if using a hair dryer while the bidet is heating it may not trip inverse time breakers will handle a brief overload without tripping, it would be similar to my granddaughters using a curling iron and a hair dryer at the same time, every now and then it trips but not enough for me to run another circuit.


How do I install plastic window insulation without damaging the trim?

Cleaners like "Goo Gone" seem to work quite well on adhesive residues. I keep some around just for those occasions.


Need to know the extra boxes connected to exterior outlet

There are few "simple" moves with buried conduit.

Can it be moved? - Almost certainly.

How much work will that be? - Nobody can tell you until you figure out what goes where, and that will almost certainly involve excavating the 3 buried conduits if you have no plan indicating where they run to/from - unless you get lucky and find that when you open the box, two of them are empty. Don't bet on that being the case.

Note: moved may really mean "partially reconstructed anew in a different location to effect "moving" the outlet and junction box (if the junction box is still needed in the new configuration") rather than reusing much or any of what you have there.

The non-outlet "boxes" shown are apparently a junction box (the big thing up higher) and a Tee down lower which is not really a box, at least with small conduit. You may not need them in the new configuration, it depends what they are doing or were doing for the Hot tub functions you are not replicating after the move.


code approved way to cut 5"x30" out of a 8" x 10" support beam

If you really have an 8"x10" beam in your basement it is probably supporting a huge amount of weight. Please do not even consider cutting into it without getting an engineer to determine what kind of supporting columns are required. (Cutting away 50% of the depth will reduce the strength by 75%.) I am guessing that in addition to the columns you will need to add footings to avoid punching through the floor, but those kinds of questions depend on exactly how your foundation is built. ("Code requirements" would depend on your location but major structural work like this would almost certainly require a permit and inspection. But frankly the safety ramifications of undermining the house's structure are probably more important.)

In short, this is an enormous project. Is there nowhere else to put the door?


He put it in the wrong place by mistake. I would make him  move it. You should not have to rig something to correct his mistake. You may not need the vent if there are other vents in  the kitchen. I would still have it changed since you paid for a correct job.


When can insulation against external walls be done for new construction?

If you pulled a permit for this work, you should not proceed until you have your framing, rough electrical, and rough plumbing inspections signed off. Depending on the work, there may be more inspections you should wait for (i.e. rafter tie-down straps, rough mechanical...) your building permit likely has these listed in order on the signoff card, or just call and ask the building official.

If you did not pull a permit, I'm sure you would prefer to get it in ASAP before the temps drop.


Hunter 99123 remote control dimming feature stopped working

I found an Amazon Review that might solve your problem.  The important part is towards the end of the review:

My guess was that having the CFL bulbs installed when the remote receiver initially powered up caused it to automatically disable the dimmer feature, as explained in the instructions. I suspected this meant some manual operation was needed to restore that feature after replacing the CFLs, but the instructions and Hunter website were both mute on the subject.
Then I remembered a section in the instructions that explained how to deal with "flashing CFL bulbs", and that mine flashed when first powered up. The instructions said to use the remote to turn the lights off, then on, then hold down the "fan off" button while pressing and releasing the light button twice. I wondered if this might be the "dimmer reset" feature I was looking for, so I tried it. No joy, but the instructions said to do this repeatedly until the CFL flashing stopped so I tried it again. Viola! The dimmer suddenly worked.
If you have the same problem, don't waste your time with the Hunter support zombies, their inadequate instructions or website. Just do this instead.

This review comes from the Amazon Product that the OP linked, and was from user "Sapient Hetero".  It is currently the "top ranked" review, but that could obviously change.
Also, it's possible that the dimmer wasn't made to support LED lights or support the particular lights you have installed even if it does support other LED lighs.


Dealing with incline from back door to fence

I assume this is going to be a slab on grade house.
I assume the plan is for rain drains which feed into a perimeter drain which goes out to the city storm drain.
A 1m tall retaining wall is nothing.  A nice flat backyard is good.
Unless your lot is down slope from many other lots and there is a natural tendency for water to run into your yard and your neighbors don't have good drainage I like your general plan.  Even if there was a drainage issue, as long as your house is protected with perimeter drains, you could cheaply add more drainage and hook into your perimeter drain.  Leave a 1' wide area over your perimeter drain in the backyard to serve as drain rock and easy drainage should the backyard get more water than is desired.
Cost to excavate 1m should be pretty minimal ( assumes that isn't 1m of bedrock and there aren't truck sized bolders in that 1m ).
The biggest expense is likely to be the larger retaining wall and the extra coordination with the neighbors depending on how you site the wall and how you site the fence with relation to the wall.


Do I need a junction box for a hardwired stove?

You will need to refer to the documentation that came with your new appliance.  Is it rated to be connected with a cord an plug or directly wired?

To start with you will need to run a new cable of 10 gauge wire and replace the circuit breaker in your panel.  Operating the appliance with 12 gauge wire when it is rated more than 20 amps and requires 10 gauge wire violates the manufacturers instructions as well as overloading the circuit.


GA is short for gauge.

The approved gauge for electrical conductors in the US is American Wire Gauge.

There are other methods to gauge wire.


Dripping sound emanating from interior wall space

You could have an HVAC condensate drain that is dripping into a vent stack pipe for your waste plumbing. They (HVAC installers) are not supposed to do that, the condensate drain is supposed to run to the outside of the house in a dedicated line. But I've seen several cases where that was not done and the lazy HVAC contractors just put a Y fitting on a nearby vent stack and run their condensate drain into it. There are potentially serious problems with that because sewer gasses can get sucked into the HVAC system. That's why waste vent pipes extend all the way up to the roof.


Dryer venting options on second floor with gambrel roof

I think Option 1 is your best option, but could you explain what you meant when you said that, "roof vent dampers won't operate at this steep of a pitch."

Are you concerned that they won't open, won't close, or both? A straight 10' run of 150 CFM dryer exhaust won't have any problem opening the damper, if anything you'll have a problem with it staying completely closed when the dryer off.

If you have a problem with it staying closed, then take a galvanized zinc nut and glue it to the vent to hold it down when the dryer is off and to prevent gusts of wind from lifting it. These vents are usually installed around 35 degrees, but yours is at 75 degrees, so you'll want to vent flap to be heavier to stay closed as it will be almost vertical.

Don't forget to remove the screen mesh from the vent if you're using it for a dryer!


Plant roots will do damage to even brickwork, compromising the mortar or even cracking bricks. That looks to be stucco and it would not be as tough.
I would not want anything growing out of my walls.
I used to like the way ivy looked until purchasing a house with an ivy covered wall. The brickwork was in such bad shape we removed the brick and resided.
I would get a woody plant herbicide and spray the plant before permanent damage to the siding and possibly roofing is done.


Is it ok to have mixed grounds and neutrals on bars in a breaker box?

The wiring issue is not a matter of pride, neatness or whatever... it's a safety issue. :)

At the service panel (ONLY AT THE SERVICE PANEL - HUGELY IMPORTANT) the neutral bus bar is bonded to ground.  You should see the ground lead and neutral tied to the same bus (the neutral bus bar).  Based on your description, it sounds like your panels are wired correctly. It just doesn't "look right" based on how the other panel is made up.  I can completely understand how this can seem incorrect from a common sense perspective.

However, any sub-panel after the primary service from there MUST have an isolated neutral.  DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT bond neutral to ground in a sub-panel.

Why is this?  When you tie neutral to earth ground in a subpanel, you create a potential parallel path for current to return via earth (ground). In the event of a fault, your ground conductor has assumed the role of the return path for current and now everything that you've grounded (sub-panel, appliances, metal fixtures, etc) to that sub-panel is now hot.

All it takes is a preexisting fault, one rainstorm, or wet feet, whatever... and you touching something energized - and you're doing the 60 cycle shuffle.


Controlling multiple rgb led strips in different zones with remote simultaneously

What you're looking for is an amplifier.   It works like a controller, slaves off another controller.   You send the power output of the controller as a signal to the amplifier.  The wires can be quite thin since they take no appreciable current.

Trying to sync using wireless remotes is hopeless.  Controllers don't always get the signal even when you are aiming directly at them.  Two distant controllers, no chance they'll stay in sync.


It’s difficult to see, but I suspect your gable end wall is not ballooned framed, but rather has a double top plate. This creates a “hinge” in the wall.
The diagonal braces keep the end wall from bending like a hinge during a wind storm or seismic activity. (I know, you’re going to tell me the ceiling will keep everything square and plumb. However, ceilings can’t give you a load resistance value to maintain the wall.)


Can an electric dryer be next to the gas furnace?

As far as I know, as long as the electric and gas lines don't actually touch, there's no more reason to be concerned about the gas and electric being 2 feet apart as there is 20 feet.

If you have a gas leak from the furnace, the furnaces own ignition system (pilot light or electronic sparker) has as much chance of setting off a blast as the dryer.


How do I pump up water pressure in my shower?

I would start with new Shower head. You make have a low pressure model or it may just be clogged/hardwater build up.  If that doesn't work check your water filter it may be clogged and needs to be replaced. Many have a bypass so you can see if there is any difference. It is possible you have partially clogged pipes or your shower cartridge/valve  could be blocked with dirt in the screen.  You can replace the Pressure Switch with a 40/60 psi.


How much room does a fridge coil need to dissipate heat?

I can't say for sure whether your installation will work, but heat dissipation could be a problem. The fridge innards you plan to use were meant for a refrigerator that has free air exchange with the rest of the house. Sealing it up under a counter with no free air movement will hinder its performance. Refrigerators that are built for under-counter installation have the coils mounted on the bottom (with a grate in front of the coils) for this reason. You could try mounting the coils on the side or bottom of the cold box, closer to the open air of the kitchen, with a vent panel as Steven suggests.


I would consider adding a positive pressure to your living space with the fresh air being pulled from a wall on the opposite side of the house. I have installed this type of fan in several multi-family dwellings to keep smoke stink out. The ones I have used are quite small squirrel-cage blowers that operate with a pressure switch; I think it was based on 2 or 3” water column.

The slight positive pressure pushes air out through light fixtures, switches and outlets.  The only downside I remember: because these are small, if you open a window or door for long you lose the advantage of the positive pressure. I did a handful and put each one in a wall next to an existing outlet so no new circuits needed to be run.

I don’t know if you can really seal things but the positive pressure fan worked. I had 1 customer have me install them in 3 different houses; the last one was a single-family home but she said she liked the fresh air (that house had no make up air electric baseboards) and it made her feel better, so those little positive-pressure fans do work.


Electricity consumption of a disconnected electricity socket

First, understand that this "radiation meter" is a piece of junk that has no scientific basis for the numbers it is reporting. It is a device designed to scare you into buying "protective" equipment you do not need, and it is deliberately miscalibrated and  exaggerating wildly

There is certainly an electromagnetic field around any live wire, and a small amount of power is indeed lost when that field induces eddy currents in nearby conductors. That's so far below the amount of power used by anything you would actually plug in that it's effectively zero on the scale of what you're paying for, even when you consider the whole house rather than one outlet. But it is possible to pick it up with suitable equipment -- noncontact testers of several types are a standard tool in an electrician's kit -- and your meter is apparently picking up that signal but lying to you about how strong it is.


What is the cheapest way to stiffen a tube/pipe?

You could truss the tubes as shown in the picture below. The center block helps to support the tube when the truss member is placed in tension.

The truss could be constructed from heavy wire or threaded steel rod. The concept here would be similar to the scheme used on the wider steps of a wooden step ladder.

I would have suggested the possibility to place the truss wire / rod inside the tube but I suspect that the 18mm diameter of the tube is too small to let the center support in such scheme be large enough to make a significant impact.


Connecting a P-trap to a female drain connector in the wall

A 1 1/4" female FIP adapter worked perfectly. As soon as I saw it, I was embarassed for not having thought of it earlier.

I used some teflon tape, screwed the FIP adapter onto the adapter coming out of the wall, then just glued my 1 1/4" pipe directly into it. No reduction in pipe sizes, and 100% ABS parts.


Any experience installing wall-hung toilets?

The main difference between this bowl and the "standard" one is that the waste goes out the back and then down rather than straight down:

(the red arrow I've added to this cross section).

In the UK all toilets (wall or floor mounted) tend to have this arrangement.

As far as everyday operation is concerned they're the same as the "standard" as it's the action of the water rather than gravity on the waste that flushes it away.


AC disconnect box flush with clapboard siding

I would buy a high grade exterior caulk and caulk the box after you've screwed it in. That should prevent any water or insect intrusion.

As for the connection in the box, a standard NM clamp should do. Conduit is more or less for exposed wire and this wire would be solely inside the wall. Be sure to run conduit or UF cable from the box to whatever you're connecting to outside.


Best advice on Frayed, exposed wires on air purifier cord

It's hard to say how bad the wire is damaged but it could be dangerous so it's good you found out about it. Make sure you unplug it before wrapping electrical tape around the cord.

Replacing the cord is a necessity. I replaced a cord on a Sharper Image air filter and I had to just about disassemble the entire unit to get to where the cord was attached to the unit. Unless you're very handy I wouldn't advise you doing this. Take it to an appliance repair shop or check with the manufacturer about having them fix it. I know this is a DIY site but sometimes we just have to bit the bullet and recommend getting a pro involved.


r 30 insulation in my downstairs basement

Matthew,

The auto-ignition temperature of paper (the moisture barrier on fiberglass batt insulation) tends to be between about 425-455 degrees F (depending humidity, altitude, etc.).  The auto-ignition temp. of other substances will vary.  Hot water heaters are capable of being set above the 120 degrees F max. but 425F is far above that.

Condensation will happen.  There is no practical, absolute preventative (though many will argue there is but these measures tend to conceal the condensation rather than prevent it).

The two most effective (imo) measures are:

1) pipe insulation (to create an "as effective as possible" barrier between hot and cold water to the surrounding air temperature) and,

2) air flow (to allow for evaporation of any condensation that will occur...though "air flow" can also introduce air temperatures that can further encourage condensation).

"Excessive" insulation at the rim joists of a basement (between the concrete foundation wall and the floor joists) is where people can control outside temperatures from infiltrating a finished basement.  I say, "excessive", because this is where most people don't use enough or don't install it correctly.  It is in this area where joist cavities get temperature fluctuations (not to be confused with "air flow") between the basement's finished ceiling and first floor.

Most condensation, from pipes, is most notable in ceilings directly below a vertical run of the pipe...condensation from the pipe runs down its vertical length onto one spot of the ceiling.  For this (and reason of "access") there's no legitimate reason to not provide a removable access panel in the ceiling.  We camouflaged ours to appear as an audio speaker panel though it's just a drywall cut-out.


The drywall mud is just as likely to stick to the aluminum flashing as it is to the board. Just observe how well dried mud sticks to your drywall mud taping knives. It may be possible to put a light coat of mineral oil or silicon lubricant spray on the metal beforehand to minimize the mud adhesion. But you would definitely want to experiment with some small samples before committing to the whole corner.

I believe that you would be way better off trimming out that edge with an appropriate style of drywall edging and then applying the drywall mud up to and over the fin of the edging.

(Image borrowed from ClarkDietrich)

The reason for this is due to the fact that if you try to build up a large thickness of drywall mud it will always be subject to damage and crumbling out when it gets hit from the corner.

Stability of the L-Stop Bead edge will likely require that you install a backer strip of wood along the edge of the corner to fill in the space.


The NEC now allows a single ground wire to be pulled, since you would be putting in this single ground your neutrals would need to be isolated from ground. A simple isolated buss would do the trick for the neutrals and use the grounded buss for the grounds.


Drilling hole for latch bolt with regular tools?

For that you will want the right bit. Using the wrong size, and trying to ream it out the full depth you need, can easily ruin the door. Even with experience, it would be difficult. An installer would know not to try what you are asking. Get the right size bit. A cheap spade/paddle bit will do fine.


Was it ok to add an outlet on a home run in the attic?

What you did is just fine. That is what any experienced electrician would have done.

If all of the wire in the entire circuit is #12 you could change your breaker to a 20 amp breaker for more capacity. If any of it is #14 you have to stick with the 15 amp breaker.

The previous setup is a waste of wire. They could have put one junction box in the middle of the room and dropped to each box OR they could have hit one box and then daisy chain to the other three boxes through the studs if the room only had one door.

There are many ways to get the job done and sometimes it is just a personal preference.

Your setup is fine though.
Good luck!


What fixture would give the best light in this high-ceiling room?

Non-trivial solution, but I would look at running a wire up the wall to the ceiling and over to the beam and either hang a chandelier from the middle of the beam, or install track lighting on the beam. You can use moulding along the beam to cover up a wire there so nobody will notice it (I did that for my living room which is now my dining room). If you do it right, you will only need to cut & patch two small sections of the wall/ceiling - one directly above the existing box and one next to the beam.


How feasible is it to reuse the bricks when rebuilding a wall?

When someone says something isn't feasible, they usually mean "I don't have the skills", or "I can't do this cost effectively", or simply "the job looks unpleasant. Of course bricks can be reused if they're not disintegrating. It's simply a matter of whether you really want to pay for that outcome.

That said, it's probably not cheaper to reuse the bricks. Bricks are cheap. Time spent disassembling and cleaning bricks isn't (if you're paying someone else to do it). The reason you'd reuse them isn't cost, but outcome. New bricks obviously don't look the same as old ones.

The answer to your question, at its essence, is yes. You can reuse bricks. Humans have done it for centuries.

P.S. I love that you posted the damage to the wall and the car.


Leak between plastic elbow joint and copper pipe

The slow type of leak that you are experiencing can have been caused by one of the following:

If the end of the copper pipe had some surface scratches, denting or had been squashed out of round. It would be recommended to inspect the copper pipe surface to ensure that it is clean, round and scratch free. This is really important because the special O-ring seal in the fitting has to seal on the outer surface of the pipe.
If the copper pipe had not been fully inserted inside the fitting. The pipe must slide in fully past both the grab ring and the O-ring seal. I would expect that if this was the nature of your fault that the leak would be more than a weep.
If the fitting was installed where there may have been dust or other debris contamination that got into the fitting under the O-ring seal this can leave channel for water to weep through the seal. It may require disassembly of the joint to visually inspect for this cause.
If the O-ring seal was damaged in the installation it could lead to a weep leak. Common causes are due to sharp ends on the copper pipe that may have been caused by the pipe being cut via a hack saw or other similar means. Visual inspection would be needed to check for this but if damaged you may need to replace the fitting.

Some guidelines to be aware of.

The installation guide for these fittings recommends that these fittings not be used in areas where they are exposed to direct or continuous sunlight.
These fittings are susceptable to cracking in freeze conditions, particularly in the presence of a metal fitting joint.
If you are replacing this fitting due to a previous freeze condition the integrity of the copper pipe in terms of roundness or bulging is in question. This should be checked before reassembly.
Copper pipe needs to be cut with a wheel cutter and then a proper chamfer filed around the end to ensure proper use with the fitting.
If your old copper pipe had any age oxidation, mineral deposit due to previous leak, or surface abrasion it may be necessary to replace the pipe with new. Although it may be possible to suitably shine it up with extra fine steel wool.
You provided a link to an insert sleeve that was used inside the end of the copper pipe. The specification shown at the link indicate that this is a sleeve meant to be used with the plastic pipe. The manufacturer's installation guide indicated that special inserts would be available for copper pipe usage at a future date.  You should check to make sure that you get the copper pipe insert for use (if they are now available).
If you de-mount the fitting that is weeping and then try to re-use it then you should probably re-lubricate the O-ring seals with the proper spray compound. The manufacturer says to make sure to use their spray. They have big cautions to avoid any application or exposure to any oils or petroleum distillates.

You may want to access the manufacturer installation guide here. It contains a plethora of information regarding your pipe system. Almost all of the above information came from this guide.


Why am I getting no satellite signal after running electrical cable alongside the satellite cable?

In order to rule out that you didn't somehow damage the coax, cut power to the circuit and see if this restores the signal. If it does, then yes you've introduced enough interference to prevent reception.  If it doesn't, then you might have damaged the coax.

RG6 Quad Shield might help but generally it should be 8-12" away.

As an aside, tying electric cable to a Telco cable doesn't sound like a safe installation. You might want to contact a licensed electrician.


How can I clear out limescale from inside a bath's pipes?

If the problem is scale sufficient to seriously reduce flow, you need a major solution and vinegar won't do.

There are acid treatments and reduced lime treatments, both very caustic chemicals that need to be handled by a pro. They are flushed through the whole system to dissolve the lime.

There is an electronic device being advertised that claims to break up the scale and put it back into solution to flush it out of the system. I have no experience with it and heard nothing about it, but it is a major installation.

The solution usually used for badly scaled pipes is replacement.  Ferrous pipes seem to build up much faster than non ferrous, but there are problems mixing metals in a system. If you plan a partial replacement, you probably want to consider plastic piping such as PEX.

Most of the solutions offered on various sites focus on reducing buildup by softening water rather than curing the problem after it occurs.  The added benefit of softened water is taste and easier rinsing of dishes and clothing.


Redgard dries to a plastic rubber-like consistency and once dry doesn't dissolve in water (or what would be the point in using it for waterproofing?), so I very much doubt it's doing any staining. My initial guess is you've got something metal under the grout that's getting wet and the red stain is rust. Any chance you can show some pictures?


Does the NEC allow electrical wiring to run next to a ventilation duct?

There are a few things I can find in the NEC that may apply here. NEC Article 300.8 states that no raceway or cable tray can have elements of any other system besides electrical in it; no plumbing, no fuel gas, no ductwork. This implies that using the vent line itself, or any of its mounting hardware, to support the cable is a no-no; if the wire and the duct go in the same direction for a while, each system needs its own supports connected to the structural members, independent of any other support for any other subsystem in the building.

NEC 300.22 specifically covers wiring within spaces that handle exhaust or environmental air. Basically, an exhaust vent line cannot have any electrical wiring installed within it. Not nonmetallic, not MC, not rigid conduit, nothing. So, you can't drill a hole and fish the cable through your range hood vent. This is because the vent line carries exhaust gases and particulate matter that may be flammable (in the case of a range hood, that would mainly be grease particles suspended in the hot air from frying, and also uncombusted natural gas), and having a wire that could, in some imaginable case, cause a spark would be an extremely bad thing to have in a line with flammable gases or particulates.

As an aside, for environmental air (as in your HVAC system), the NEC just states that the cable must be plenum-rated in order to be legal in an open space used for air handling, and must be armored in some way when installed inside a metal air-handling duct.

Additionally, NEC 300.4 covers basic protection of nonmetallic wire against damage. These include things like minimum depth of installation in a wall, properly anchoring electrical wire to structural members etc etc, but also covers protecting the wire from sharp metal edges. Ductwork can have quite a lot of sharp metal edges; extra protection, such as bushings and rigid conduit, are recommended and/or required for any run of cable that passes close enough to ductwork etc for contact to be a concern.

Given that you follow those three articles' guidelines, I cannot find anything saying that Romex can't be in close proximity to ductwork. I would just avoid having the conduit actually contact the ductwork by securing it to the nearest structural member, and I would protect it with plastic or metal rigid conduit if contact with the metal duct is unavoidable at any point.


The fridge will add more heat to your room.

You're much better off getting an air-conditioner, and keeping the fridge outside of the room.