How do I insulate exterior basement wall?

Best place to go for this sort of information is buildingscience.com. This set of documents on basements will have lots of useful guidance.


Sometimes there is a reset button for the circuit near where the power cord comes out of the air conditioner. Usually a little black or red nub.  Is the outlet still hot? It's possible she tripped the circuit breaker for that outlet.


How can I control two ceiling fans and lights with one single pole switch?

The only product that I know of that will do what you want is the Lutron Maestro Light/Fan control.  This product consists of a switch and canopy module.  The switch will digitally talk to the canopy module over the single ungrounded wire and control lights/fan separately.  The kits are one switch and one module but the switch can talk to 4 modules at once.


Fixing a door hinge when the part of the board it was attached to is gone?

The wood next to the stone wall rotted.
You have a stone foundation.  Those are never perfectly sealed.  Moisture got thru and rotted the piece of wood next to the stone.  Maybe moisture came thru the wall or maybe up thru the ground.
Remove the door and set it aside.  Now you will be looking at the rotten piece of wood attached to the stone wall.  Get rid of it.  If you want a set up like you had, put a new piece there that is the same size.  When you get the old piece out you will see how it was attached to the stone.  Maybe there will be some holes in the stone you can use for the new piece.  Then put the door back where it was and attach the hinges to the new piece of wood.
It occurs to me that this would be a fine job for that fake plastic wood which will fill the space and receive the hinge from the door, but not rot.  Or at least use some wood full of preservatives!


How can I control my furnace blower independently from the furnace itself?

To accomplish this, you can use a 2-stage thermostat. You'd connect only the 2nd stage to your furnace. Both stages run the blower.

When the temperature drops to say 69, the first stage will start your blower. When the temperature drops to an even lower temperature, the furnace (stage 2) will be switched on just as you describe.

There are many thermostats which can accomplish this. Here's a great video I found
which demonstrates how a 2 stage thermostat works. You can see that the first stage is activated when the temperature is slightly lower than the set temperature and the second stage is activated when the room temperature is much lower than the set temperature. There are dials to set when the second stage is activated. He also shows the wiring for the stages. In your application, you'd leave w₁ unconnected and connect your furnace to w₂.


"Old Work" electrical box: should it be screwed into the stud?

Junction boxes are not to have additional holes drilled into them for securing them to studs. The box you have shown can be used and mounted fairly secure if you take the time to cut the opening as small as possible so the box tabs have more drywall to support it.
A better solution is to get a box similar to the one below with side screws already included to be mounted to the stud. This is the same size as the old work box but allows you to screw directly into the stud.

Southwire Smart Box 2-Gang Adjustable Depth Device Box #MSB2G


Can I add concrete from the old posts in the holes for the new posts and pour fast setting concrete on top?

It would be appropriate to substitute your old concrete for the gravel at the bottom of the hole (assuming you broke it small enough...), but I wouldn't mess with the concrete mix itself.

Think about it: you'd be upending the factory mix by adding more 'gravel'. Manufacturers have thought about the mix more than we can imagine, so I'd defer to them.

While I get that hauling more bags of concrete and more waste is a pain (maybe dribble the waste concrete out in 5# increments in your household waste, if permitted), you might take comfort in amortizing your work over the life of the posts.


Sump pump horizontal distance - Why do 90 deg angles put more load on the pump after a vertical drop?

As  Jimmy Fix-it says, it's a question of whether the pump sees those elbows, and the associated pipe friction, or "dynamic head," or not.
If you have (say) a 2" discharge from the pump, but you put 3 or 4" pipe in the ground, then it's likely that the pump will never "see" the rest of the pipe, if it's properly sloped and does not freeze or clog.
If it's 2 inch pipe all the way, then it will fill up when the pump is running, and the pump will be pumping against that pipe friction. Whether or not that's a problem would depend on the pump specifications. Gravity flow with low head is quite slow compared to typical pumping rates.


Anyone have an idea about unidentified constant noise/vibration in single-family house?

Throwing the main breaker on your electric panel is easy; you should try that. If cutting the power to the whole house stops the problem, then turn the power back on and start turning off circuits one-by-one. Hopefully they're labeled so you can identify the appliance or room, but this may take some trial-and-error.

Here are some other possibilities I can think of:

Pump for well water (if you have it).
Some other vibration coming in via municipal water line (although I can't imagine what would cause repetitive vibrations from a water main). If you do get water from your city/town, try to find the main service entrance and put your hand on it, to see if the pipe is vibrating.
An exhaust fan: maybe in your attic?
Radon mitigation fan (these typically run 24/7, drawing air out of your basement/crawlspace, through a duct).


The model number provided is an air handler. The "heat package" shown in your picture is a electric element heating which may or may not be installed(was not factory installed). The unit shipped with a evaporator coil installed as per the rating plate, but that didn't come charged with refrigerant. An air handler is capable of running a heat pump. The simplest way to tell if it's a heat pump is the model of the outdoor unit, without easy access to the condenser (if it's on a roof or something) check how many wires go to it from the air. Usually 2 wires go to a cooling only condenser. Sometimes 2 stage applications or onboard diagnostic require more wires. Never assume the color of the wire to correspond to any standard practice. I'm leaning towards no heat pump due to the TXV shipped with the coil. Heat pumps with TXV either need dual TXVs or a bypass check valve when reversed flow is happening. There may be some new methods being used in the southern states that I'm unaware of. I'm from Toronto and don't often deal with heat pumps as our electricity is very expensive.


How do I add window stools to my new windows?

Looks like you could "float" them level with the existing frame, but screw in from the window side (through the face away from the room, into the part you call a stool that I'd call a sill) which would firmly attach the stool to the windowframe so it could not pull away from the wall.

They are probably designed not to have one, yes - "picture-framing" windows is one more place to cut costs, and cats and plants don't have effective lobbying groups to prevent it.


What additional precautions should be taken with this plumbing repair?

That will not last long, source and use a proper pipe connector for that pipe.
The heating and cooling will cause the glued joints to fail, it may be that the glue will not adhere well to the outer pipe covering anyway.
Either there will be a repair version which is made long or you will need two end or butt connectors or joiners and a piece of spare pipe to join the gap between two connectors. This means you will have to make a larger hole in the wall.


Is a dedicated circuit to gas furnace always required?

Put a subpanel here

Provided there's enough clear working space out from that side of the furnace, you can replace that fusible mini-disconnect (switched fuse cover) with a small subpanel (a "spa panel" type of disconnect is large enough for this job, although GE makes? or at least made the TL510RT that is basically perfect for a 120V only application if you can get it, and SqD has the QO24L50TTS that will do the trick here as well), that has 2 15A breakers on the same leg, one for the furnace and one for the other circuit.  (You can also put the service receptacle for the space on this panel, if one is not already present.)

Or, if this is all in conduit...

If this circuit is run entirely in conduit, then there should be enough space for another 15A circuit (hot+neutral) in there for the remaining loads, allowing the furnace to be left alone on the existing circuit, or vice-versa, with the furnace moved to the new circuit and the other loads left on the existing circuit.


Installing Pendant light which came with 3 clear wires and 1 copper/bare wire

A pendant light needs 4 wires:

Hot
Neutral
Ground for the dangling lamp
Ground for the box cover

Two of them go to metal contact points in the bulb socket. If one of them is easier to touch than the other, that should be neutral.

Honestly, I'd say if the accompanying documentation or online docs do not tell how to hook it up, then it goes back to the store/into the trash.  I would question the UL or CE listing, as I doubt they'd list a fixture with no clear way to hook it up.  I can only imagine they expect a qualified electrician to beep it out.  Well, digital voltmeters are $10 at Sears if cost is a factor - for a world-class one, Fluke.


What is the best way to hang a heavy dynamic weight from a flat ceiling with joists?

Just because you can't see the joists doesn't mean you cannot use your beam approach for exposed rafters. The structure is essentially the same, except for a thin layer of sheetrock between the two, which has little impact on the forces involved. The best thing to do is distribute any concentrated load over multiple connections. Use a flat 2x4, or better yet 2x6 that's long enough to span 4 joists, about 4 to 6 feet. Place the chair connection at the center using a large through eye bolt, using an over sized washer to spread the load into the wood. The nut and bolt end will end up punching into the ceiling, but that's OK. Holes are easy to patch if the beam is ever removed, otherwise, it doesn't show anyway.

Attach the 2x beam to each joist with two 1/4" dia. lag screws. Use a screw long enough to penetrate 2 inches into the joist material, probably 4 inches. Drill a 5/32 inch pilot hole before placing each lag to prevent splitting the joist. The resulting 8 screws is more than adequate to support any adult and will not significantly weaken the joists.


If you have NO Voltage on Line In at the GFCI - and I am talking the PHYSICAL WIRE and not the receptacle plug - then given you have power at the preceding receptacle and not at the GFCI - you have an OPEN circuit.

That means the wire is not feeding power due to a open connection or broken connection on the preceding receptacle or on the 1st GFCI.

  Why you have the second GFCI I am not sure and ordinarily you would
  place the GFCI first in the line and all other circuits down line from
  the GFCI are protected no need for additional GFCI's in that circuit
  run.

I think there are also some issues with placing a secondary GFCI in line with an existing GFCI, either one or both GFCI's might not work properly.

If it is at the receptacle end where you are measuring no voltage - the GFCI has tripped. Given you have two at the end of the run - is the other one tripped ?


Rocket thrust washing machine drain hose

It is hard to actually answer your question without actually asking more questions (see comments section of original question). But despite that you may want to look into installing a drain hose restraint that helps to keep the hose from jetting its way out of the drain drop pipe. This is often a wire assembly that attaches to the hose and the drain pipe. Some ties a short piece of chain is included.

The restraint device can correct for extra high jet strength coming out of the hose but it will not be able to correct for any possible restriction in the down pipe.


How do I wire 3 way switches where the power comes in at the light?

Can't be done as described, you are short 1 wire between the two light fixtures. You need another wire between the two lights. You do have other options though, one being a "smart switch" which uses a signal instead of travelers. How far apart are the 3-ways?


How to turn off all power to the electric panel?

You need to call your utility company and have them come and disconnect the meter.

To re-install it, they will likely require the new panel has passed inspection, so be sure to check and coordinate that as well.


Option 1 is fine. There's nothing load-bearing about the rim and plate at that location. I'd bring the wye up at 22-1/2 from plumb to move away from the stud.


What is the best drill bit to use to drill a hole in a chainsaw bar?

I sincerely doubt that you should be custom hacking something onto your chainsaw bar. If this was a legitimate attachment that is provided by the chain saw manufacturer then there should already be mount points defined and instructions provided for installing such option.

Custom modifications to a tool, especially one that is already as dangerous as a chainsaw, should not be done because of the additional danger and risk to safety that can come into play.


One-way switch. Why is a separate pvc conduit used?

Because it's legal to use a continuous metallic conduit as the grounding conductor. If the conduit is not conductive, a wire must be pulled to act as the grounding conductor.


how better to cut laminate planks -- with saws or laminate cutter

I do not use a laminate cutter.  For some laminates I am able to score with a razor knife and a straight edge and then snap, for others I use a miter saw for cross cuts, a table saw for ripping lengthwise and a jigsaw to cut around closet openings and door openings.


Are existing non-tamper-resistant outlets grandfathered in NEC?

Yes. If you're not making changes, there's no requirement to swap them out. If you are changing out the receptacles for any reason, you'll have to install tamper resistant receptacles.  You cannot replace the receptacles with non-tamper resistant receptacles (technically).


How to fix unevenly stained maple wood vanity?

There are several stain-like finishes for wood:

Penetrating stain - can only be used on unfinished wood. Several coats can be used to even the tone and make it slightly darker. Once the wood has a finish coat, it will only sit on the surface, and usually looks bad. (Most are solvent based, but there are also water based stains)
Varnish/poly stain - this is stain mixed with a finish coat, such as varnish or polyurethane. It mostly sits on the surface and can be darkened somewhat by adding more coats.
Pigmented stains - these are mostly used outdoors on decks and outdoor furniture. They are more like thinned down paint than true stains. The penetrate slightly, but mostly sit on the surface. They are not especially well suited to indoor furniture.
Colored glazes - these are somewhere between paints and stains, with a thick body that can be brushed or wiped on, then partially removed to give a glaze, a partially transparent color and finish. Often used to give an antique look. Often they are rubbed off at edges to let contrasting under layers show through.

Your furniture looks like it may have been done with varnish/poly stain. If this is so, more stain will not penetrate. If you sand off the excess, there will still be some areas that are effectively sealed because of the finish part of the coating. You might be able to add more of the same and get a more even coating. However, you may need to sand most of it off and effectively start again.

Surface stains are more prone to have lighter edges because they do not penetrate, and as you brush them out, very little stain and color is left on the edge.

When you say see a little bit of the grain do you mean texture or color variations. If texture, you are talking about a thinned paint-like finish, a type of glaze, rather than a true stain. Your cabinets are made of wood that has very little surface texture. if you mean slight color variations, either penetrating stain or varnish/poly stain can do this if carefully applied.


Multitool attachment sets for quick release reciprocating saws

They are completely different types of tool.
The item you bought is a reciprocating saw commonly known as a Sawzall.  It vibrates in/out with great force.  It is designed to use saw blades which have the cutting teeth on the side of the blade.  It uses a semi-standard blade shape which looks like an "L" with a dot.
There's a totally different type of tool called an oscillating saw.  This head vibrates in 4 directions (sort of like "Wax on/wax off" if you are waxing a car).  When it has saw blades, the cutting teeth are on the end of the blade. However it supports a huge variety of other tool heads which can benefit form the oscillating motion. It has a quick-disconnect type that looks like a big asterisk with a side missing, to allow you to position the heads at a variety of angles.
Reciprocating saws are beasts that can cut through 1/2" thick steel with the right blade.  Oscillating saws are much more dainty, intended for finer work, and don't have nearly the same cutting force.  You don't worry about cutting your arm off with an oscillating saw.
The second set of tool heads you linked are for oscillating saws.  They won't work on a reciprocating saw any more than a band-saw blade would work on a chain-saw.

Note that everything you linked is cheap Chinese crud from third-party "eBay tier" sellers on Amazon's little flea market they call "Amazon Marketplace". Expect these tools to very quickly fail, and the tools may be dangerous, since they bypass all consumer-safety laws by selling direct through Amazon.  Unfortunately, Amazon mixes these junk products in with their regular search results with no ability to filter, and you often have to muck through pages of these to find a product actually worth buying.
Since Home Depot and Lowes also have online catalogs, and their stuff does not bypass the safety laws,  and they have "curbside" so I can get it same day, I buy there instead.


how do i mount this old Toyo Toki (Toto) sink?

The two top holes in the corners are there because the sink is hollow. They are from the making of the sink. You will not use those holes. Every wall mounted sink that I have installed uses a bracket that is mounted on the wall first into at least one stud, then the sink drops down onto the bracket. The two lower holes then would probably line up to two holes on the bracket so the sink cannot be accidentally moved or bumped off the bracket.

If you do not have the bracket, you may have to fabricate one (I would use wood). It should not get wet back there if you caulk along the top of the sink after installation, so the wood should not fall apart over time.


This is actually done quite often, especially with gas appliances. People don't want to disconnect the gas lines to move their stoves. Many times the gas company will disconnect/reconnect for you.

I have never floored around an appliance but I see it a lot. If you choose to do this, do yourself a favor and save a few lengths of the flooring in case you decide later to correct this.


In general, finish coats will not absorb any stain. The finish seals the pores of the wood preventing anything from penetrating.

True stain can only be put on wood that does not have a sealer on it. Where you sanded, you removed the sealing finish coat. That let the stain penetrate and darken the wood more than the surrounding areas.

The only real fix now is to sand off the finish from all of the visible surfaces, pre-condition, stain and refinish. You may have to do a little blending or feathering on the edges of the areas that have already been stained.

The only alternative is to use a poly-stain. This is really just a heavily tinted surface coat rather than a penetrating stain. You would need to make the color much darker to cover the variations you now have. Probably not the best idea.


Ok to paint Kilz on wooding flooring with faced insulation beneath?

If the batts have a paper facing, that's not actually a vapor barrier, it's vapor retarder, and you'll be fine.

If instead, the facer is plastic or aluminum, or there's a sheet of polyethylene sealing the floor, then yes those would be vapor barriers and you would have a problem. Solution: remove the vapor barrier.


I ran a screw through a wire at home, should I worry?

Shut the circuit off. Leave off til fixed.
You took a chunk out of the wire, if not severed the whole wire.  That means it's thinner, or out of contact entirely.
If it's thinner, that means current is squeezing through a narrow part.  This will make the wire hot there.  It could get hot enough to ignite a fire on the wrong side of the walls.
Of if the wire is cut entirely, or passing through the nail, it is bound to start arcing.  Arcing makes a tremendous amount of heat - it will heat up much, much faster than a nicked wire, and could start a fire going in less than a minute.
Drywall is a fire-stop.  That means, fires which start in between the walls are hard to detect. They can become "fully engaged" (turned into a pretty big fire) before you even detect it.
And then what?  It's almost impossible to fight a fire on the wrong side of the drywall, unless you are a pro fireman who hatchets drywall every day.   By the time they arrive, the fire will be so engaged that they'll have to wreck the place to save the structure at all.
Whose fault is this?
Depends on the length of the nail.  If it's 1-1/2" or less, not your fault.  The builder is required to either keep all wires more than that far back from the wall surface, or, put metal guard plates in front of the wires.
Your job is simply don't use overlong fasteners, and if you hit a hard metal thing, stop.


How to diagnose an electrified refrigerator frame?

An open ground is not in and of itself a problem.  Grounds are there to dump excess voltage in case something goes wrong. If all our appliances worked properly all the time, there'd be no need for ground.

So what you have is two problems:

Your fridge has a bare wire rubbing against the frame or other electrical short,
And, the safety device meant to mitigate such a fault (ground) is broken.

If I were you, I'd replace the outlet, preferably with a GFI, and make sure the ground is attached.  Then I'd have someone in to look at the fridge.


How do you determine the slope of a floor?

One way is to take a long level (the longer the better : 6 and 8' levels work well).

Hold one end of the level on the higher point, and then once the level is level, measure the gap between the other end and the floor using a measuring tape. This will give you your height over your run (length of level), for that particular spot in the floor anyways.


How to repair integrated window screens from a 1930s house?

I had windows with screens similar to yours in my first 1950's house. They were built by" Pella" window and doors. I would contact them 1st. to see if they are their window and ask if they have a solution. If they are not their windows they may be able to direct you to the actual manufacturer.


What is causing a two brand new fluorescent light to pulse?

Probably the old ballast and new bulbs are not exactly compatible. Aside from the 32/34 W difference, are the new tubes perhaps 1/2" smaller in diameter than the old tubes? That would likely be a T8 tube replacing a T12 tube, and usually a ballast change is also needed to keep everything happy...


Contractor cut joists short (followup to earlier question)

I think the joists cut short are fine because, 1) required bearing is satisfactory, 2) withdrawal out of hanger is not of concern.

1) Your 2x10’s at 16” on center spanning 12’ will support a maximum of between 100 per linear foot (plf) and 155 plf depending on the species and grade of the lumber. Therefore, the maximum load on each hanger is:

155 plf x 6’ = 930 lbs.

Lumber can withstand between 375 psi and 455 psi in compression perpendicular to grain before it starts to crush. Therefore, the MINIMUM bearing length required in each hanger is:

930 lbs. / 375 psi x 1.5” (width of joist) =
1.6” into hanger

The joists cut short at the top of the hanger is not important...there is no load on that portion of the joists, except to provide support for your subfloor.

2) Withdrawal out of the hanger is not supported by the side nails, but rather by the subfloor. That is to say, the joists cannot “move” out of the hangers because they are secured in place by the nailing of the subfloor into each joists.

Summary:
If the joists extend about 1 5/8” into the hangers, they can support the maximum load that a 2x10 joist at 16” on center spanning 12’ can support.


Copper pipe through cinder block wall: corrosion issue

Normally it is perfectly acceptable for copper piping to come into contact with (or even be embedded in) concrete. Pre-cast concrete block is often an exception. This is a quote from the Copper Development Assn.:

"copper should be protected when it comes in contact with concrete mixtures that contain components high in sulfur, such as cinders and fly-ash, which can create an acid that is highly corrosive to most metals including copper"

They don't call them cinder blocks for no reason, fly ash (a residue left when coal is burned) is used in their manufacture.

Check with your local code enforcement authority, but that pipe should have been protected, both against corrosion and against abrasion due to thermal expansion. You may eventually need to cut out that section and solder a new piece in. If you can disconnect it from the tank and plug the end, fill it with water to see if there are any pinholes or leaks. Solder a new piece in if you are worried (remember to disconnect and flush first, torches and oil residue/vapor do not go well together).


Do I need to screw down both sides of a composite deck board at each joist?

My experience with composite deck boards is that they flex more than similar sized solid lumber. I would not take the quick way out and instead fasten the deck boards in the manner recommended by the manufacturer. Most certainly the manufacturer directions will also have something to say about the joist spacing as well.

Overall my take is that the more points you secure the deck boards to the joists the less flex that will be felt in the floor as you walk around on it.


Converting a garage to a living space means applying all the features that you'd normally expect in a living space:

Remove the rollup door and frame in the opening (or frame a new wall with an offset to create an externally-accessible storage space, as Ed Beal suggests). Install an insulated service door or window if desired.
Insulate the walls and ceiling and apply vapor barrier.
Run supply and return ductwork from the new HVAC system.
Consider framing a floating, insulated floor over the slab

I think that you knew this was the answer but were looking for shortcuts. You've eliminated the shortcuts in your question by saying that window units don't do the job. I'm not surprised, and I'd be wary of the energy bills even if that was a workable solution.


Can two antennas in proximity interfere with each other if they're not amplified?

For the wavelengths you're trying to receive, keep everything else more than 1 wavelength away. So for VHF FM radio keep other antennas or metal that would act like an antenna 10 feet away if you're trying to pick up far away stations. Same with UHF TV, 2-3 feet away is good for a far away station.

In reality though, most signals/stations are so powerful that a little signal attenuation won't make a difference. With digital TV there is error correction as well, so you either get it or you don't unlike analog TV where you deal with all kinds of noise.

If you need to share a mast, then just do it. Ideally you'd have a 300 foot tower too, but most signals are so strong you don't have to. Worst case just get a higher dBi one to offset any losses.


Can hydrochloric acid vapors corrode nearby metal items?

Yes.  I used to keep my acid in a large container along with some paint thinners and removers.  Even with the acid bottle tightly sealed, the metal paint thinner containers rusted after a couple of weeks.  Will enough vapors get at your ducts to rust them?  Can't say, but it's worth the effort to wrap them.  Sounds like your major problems will be containing the acid so it doesn't reach the floor and neutralizing it without flooding the inside.


What grit sandpaper should I use to remove polyurethane from hardwood floors?

Start with a rougher grit sandpaper and work your way down to a smooth paper.  Generally I use three different papers.  Rough to remove the majority of the varnish, medium to get the rest of the finish and smooth any larger wood issues, then a third run with a fine paper to make it all smooth.


How to know if there is damp or mold behind wall?

The only 'test' the inside of the wall is to actual visually inspect it and to acquire access to do that would require 'damaging' the wall. The wall can be repaired but I'm assuming that you don't want to do that due to your lease and the cost.

There is a way that might be allowed under your lease and is relatively inexpensive and easy to repair. This is the use of an inspection camera which is a device that uses a skinny tube with a camera on the end, much like the doctor uses to look down a patients throat or for a colonoscopy. They can be rented for the day. To use, a small hole is drilled through the wall covering, and that hole might be smaller than the maximum allowed by your lease for general use like hanging pictures and shelves. Even if not, it is small enough that it could be repaired fairly easy though due to the many different types of wall coverings I consider that a different question and answer


What are guidelines for drilling into a top plate?

Don't overthink this.

A reasonably-sized hole for 14 or 12 Gauge 3 or 4 wire cable (i.e. 14-2 with ground up to 12-3 with ground) - or 1/2" EMT in the middle third of the plate will have essentially no effect on the bearing capacity.


You CAN bond tile directly to a plywood subfloor and expect it to last. HOWEVER, the floor must be properly reinforced to minimize flexing; the joists, if they're 2x8 (newer code) and not 2x10 (older code), must be braced every four feet with cross-braces, which minimizes independent flexing of each joist and the subfloor above. Then, in either case the subfloor should probably be about an inch thick (at least 3/4"), and if that's accomplished with more than one layer of plywood/OSB, the subfloor should be glued and screwed together such that they're as close to one piece of material as possible. If you have the vertical space for a floating underlayment like Ditra, that will further reduce grout and tile cracking by allowing the two dissimilar materials (wood and tile) to swell and shrink at their own differing rates with temperature and humidity.

I would not "glue" stone or ceramic tiles in any case; the tiles will likely not be properly supported under their entire area and WILL crack and lift. Use thinset, and since this is a bathroom I would use a waterproof membrane laid down over a first layer of thinset to protect the subfloor, as neither thinset nor grout are waterproof. A waterproof underlayment is flat-out required on the floor and up the walls in shower stalls and anywhere else you expect to have water sprayed or standing on a regular basis; the water will wick into the thinset by the gallon, and eventually contact the drywall, where it will eventually degrade and mold even water-resistant "green board".


I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat?

No. You shouldn't have to wet the first coat.


Can I use an 11 watt bulb in a desk lamp that says "CFL max 9 watts"?

The power consumption permitted by the fixture is 9 watts; the bulb that you've selected is 11 watts. You've exceeded the permitted wattage, even if it is by a very small margin.

Is it safe? Most of the max wattage specifications by manufacturers are conservative, so you would probably be fine. But why exceed a stated limit? I would suggest considering a smaller wattage bulb for that fixture, or a fixture that supports the bulb wattage that you've selected.


If this wall is parallel to the trusses, it is probably not load bearing. At least that would be typical.

Water infiltration

You must address the cause of the water infiltration, or this will only happen again.

You noted the lack of housewrap, and that may be contributing, but since its by the window I'd say correct window flashing is essential. Check with the  window manufacturer for instructions (they are all similar but for example: Andersen). The details really count, especially how to lap one layer over another, etc.

If you can do it from the exterior, I'd also air-seal the window to the framing while you have the chance. (e.g., Canned spray foam - low expansion).

You should add housewrap (or tar paper) wherever sheathing is exposed, and if you ever re-side tie into that later.

Framing

This is a reasonable repair to do yourself. It sounds like the rotted studs are possibly still adequate. i.e., if they are solid the remaining thickness and no water has reached the interior, you might be able to just live with them as long as the wall is closed up correctly.

You could also sister new wood side-by-side with the existing which would avoid tearing out material and damaging the interior finish. The key thing is that the header is still supported by the left stud. If you sister the king stud there you might run some long structural screws (like Headloks) just to ensure the new wood will support the header.

The thing that concerns me most if you want to leave the damaged wood in place is the sill plate. If that is rotted through it isn't doing its job (transferring the load of the wall, ensuring shear transfer through the sheathing, etc.) However you could probably just cut out that rotten piece and slip a new one in. This is unlikely to damage the interior since it is probably behind trimwork. You could also leave the rotted section if its small enough, and slip in 2 or more 2x4s on the horizontal over the top of it. This might spread out the load adequately.


Is it possible to detect from the power outlet if there would be current that needs grounding?

I'd pick up one of these at the hardware store:

If you're not in North America, I'm sure there's a local equivalent.
Based on the LED's that light up, you can tell if the circuit is wired correctly.  The only thing it can't detect is a ground/neutral swap.  But it can detect a missing ground.


Fixing a toilet deceptively complicated, where did I go wrong?

One problem (and not just with home cheapo) is that there are many models of toilet that all do the same thing, with somewhat different and not always compatible parts. Some have 2" flush valves, some have 3" flush valves - etc. Two problems with home cheapo and lowes and other things like them is that the help are often not particularly knowledgeable, and the selection is not comprehensive. Quality on many parts is "hope you live close to the store, because you may need to take it back for a replacement" but that is hardly limited to them, as many of the same poorly made parts are available elsewhere. A real plumbing supply will have a wider range of parts and possibly better quality as well, but they will come at a higher price, and some won't sell to the general public (being setup as wholesale only, they don't want to collect sales tax or compete with their regular, high-volume customers, who are plumbers. If they do sell to the public you will pay a lot more than your plumber does for the same item.)

In your case you probably would have been money ahead to simply buy a whole new toilet (all parts compatible), rather than call in the plumber. The cheapo near me has 18 in stock that cost less than $200 for the complete toilet. I'd personally avoid the cheapest of those, and I'd factor country of origin into my buying decision. It's not a thing I buy often, and having it break is annoying.

Brass is not inherently better than plastic. Either can be made well or poorly, and for some water supplies, plastic is a far better idea. No fill valve lasts "forever."


Why does one burner on my gas stove release no gas, but the rest work fine?

The control chip at the knob had burned out.


What do you call the pieces that are put underneath carport post that are on a slab and where do you get them?

Summary of key words: post base; Simpson; stand-off; embedded

They didn't know what it was, even after showing them the picture because Home Depot people are almost never experts and often not even that knowledgeable about construction.

What you are looking for is called a post base. In particular, it sounds like it's a stand-off type which means that there is a riser at the bottom. Also, that it is likely an embedded type, which means that it was cast into the concrete when the concrete was poured.

Since you can't place a cast-in into cured concrete, you'll need the type that uses bolts placed into holes pre-drilled into concrete.

Simpson brand hardware is the most common and there are other brands. They are lots of different options. To find knowledgeable people, I suggest going to your local lumberyard or building supply, not a home improvement box giant.


What could happen if I use 2 cycle fuel in a 4 cycle engine?

It will smoke badly and may indeed foul the plug(s). It will be less of a problem if you only use a SMALL amount of mix fuel in each tank, so the oil is more diluted.

IMHO, IME, if you use THAT little fuel in your weed whacker, you probably should sell it and buy an electric one, either corded or rechargeable.

If you don't want to do that, then you should invest in some good liquid measures that you will NOT use for anything else, and mix only a pint or quart of mixed fuel at one time - or purchase "canned pre-mix" fuel which typically comes in sealed metal quart cans - available in many places.

Edit WRT comments: I would personally choose an inexpensive graduated cylinder (or two) for the mixing - far less likely to be repurposed to food use by someone that does not know better than a tablespoon - also very easy to get a direct ratio in small quantity. But...2 Tbs in an ounce, 16 per cup, 32 per pint, 128 per half-gallon. So a pint of 32:1 mix is easy, but all my stuff is 50:1 mix. 256 tablespoons per gallon at 50:1 works back to one Tbs per 0.195 gallon (on a modern digital pump readout.) 40:1 is 0.156 and 32:1 is 0.125


I know nothing about that product so i do  not know if it is necessary to have the concrete sealed when using the product. Have you read the installation instruction regarding installation on concrete ?

Concrete sealer. (there are many)

Depends on the type of sealer you are using, read the instruction concerning flammability.

Depends on the type of sealer you are using, read the instruction concerning safety precautions and ventilation.

If you have a more specific question then please update.


A proper tool for removing a PEX pipe from a fitting barb

I would use a utility knife to score the pipe. Or a pair of wire cutter pliers. Leave a little extra pipe on the end so you can grab it with the pliers and peel the pipe off.


What options are available to align door's knob and lock to door frame

Easy enough to move the strike plates to algn. You may have to increase the size of the mortise with a wood chisel. Fill the old holes using toothpicks or a small dowel and wood glue. Then reset the strike plates.
It's about as cost effective as you can get.
Another option I've used is to install a hinge spacer on the bottom hinge to raise the door up slightly. You can get them at most home stores. Obviously, you need enough play around the door to accomodate the movement.


Is "servo-drive" a generic term when applied to kitchen cabinets/drawers?

To my mind, servos are typically used in control-gear, not the sort of thing I'd associate with cabinets.

Personally, I'd use something like:

  The cabinets are electrically driven ...

or

  The cabinets have motor drive ...


What kind of screw is it this with two different intertwining threads?

That type of threading is called hi-lo, or sometimes high-low.

From MutualScrew.com:

  High-low screws -- or hi lo screws, as they are often called -- have double-lead threads (where two grooves have been cut around the shaft). This kind of screw includes a high thread and a low thread. The unique qualities of hi-lo thread specifications help minimize the amount of material displaced as the screw is driven into the material, while also serving to create a stronger grip than would otherwise be possible.


What can fiberglass insulation NOT touch?

This is pretty late for the op, but for anyone else that comes across this threat.

Resilient channel is extremely easy to short circuit, and there are numerous examples for installs gone wrong with sheetrock falling.  You want hat channel with the appropriate amount of clips to actually hold the weight of the sheetrock.

Just a home theatre enthusiast here, but I have used their products in our first house.  Check out the soundproofing company website for general guidelines.

Pink or yellow fluffy will keep the the joist bays from becoming a drum.
Using 5/8 type x sheetrock will give weight.
"Hat channel" with the basic clips is all that's needed to break the connection.
Double sheetrock with green glue works as a dampener

I like the idea of rockwool instead of fluffy for moisture in our situation, but in a dry space it does virtually nothing better than pink/yellown fluffy insulation to stop the drum situation.

Hope this helps.


Polymeric sand or replace original paver sand?

I agree with Matthew; this looks like a pretty good paver job. Pressure washing probably did a good enough job, depending on how long it has gone from either being built or from the last time it was cleaned, til the next time it needs cleaning.
However, if you've got weeds coming up (the moss, by contrast, is probably growing downward from transplanted seeds rather than growing up from underneath the pavers), it could be that there wasn't a proper base layer or weed barrier put down. Or, this could just be an old patio; no weed barrier lasts forever,
I would recommend polymeric sand over normal leveling sand simply because polymeric sand is designed to go between the cracks of the pavers and then harden, which has two benefits:

makes the pavers move less under your feet

makes it more difficult for weeds to grow

When applying the polymeric sand, it is important to use a tamper or vibrating compactor so that the polymeric sand settles down fully into the cracks; you don't want air pockets in it when it is setting. After that, be sure to wet the sand per any provided instructions and let it set before walking around on it.
Also note that polymeric sand is recommended to be reapplied in a touch-up capacity every year or so.


Will grid-lines in textured ceilings show through paint?

Paint will only cover up VERY minor imperfections, like pinholes in a wall (and even then, if it's a big pinhole, it may still show through). If texturing didn't cover it, paint (which is MUCH thinner) definitely won't.


What tool is used to tighten a short pipe nipple?

A coupling and another piece of pipe can be used to tighten a close nipple.  You can't grip the threads with a wrench without damaging them.  Some nipple extractors only work in one direction, but if the tool is called an "internal pipe wrench" it can work in both directions to tighten or remove a nipple.

Sample internal pipe wrench


Two countdown timers connected to one inline fan — Does it work?

This is the classic "DC electronics guy thinking schematic.  Here, you need to think wiring diagram due to NEC 300.3(B) and the eddy currents induced by AC EMF. So wiring routes must be a "tree" topology; no loops or bubbles.
All wiring throws EMFs. For steady-state DC power, it's like a refrigerator magnet. Not for AC power; its constant changing causes powerful EMF effects.
As long as all related conductors are tight-packed in the same cable, these EMF effects cancel each other out. Say there's 6A on hot1 and 4A on hot2 both returning 10A on neutral.  That's 10A of EMF that are equal and opposite, and cancel each other out, and that is fine.
Anytime AC power goes out one path and back another, that encircled area becomes the core of a transformer.  So if hot2 took a different path, now you have 4 ampere-turns being induced into the encirclement, which will cause vibration (leading to wire cracking leading to overheat), eddy current heating in anything ferrous or nonferrous, etc. That's why we don't do that thing.
However, what happens inside a junction box is something we are resigned to.  And it helps for EMFs to use a metal box. I don't know why people are so in love with plastic boxes, SMH.
So here's the plan
Wire it with a /2 cable from supply to timer1, then /3 to timer2, then /2 to the fan.  This is "tree" topology and complies with 300.3(B).
Supply to time1 carries always-hot (black), neutral (white) and of course safety earthing.
Timer1 to time2 contains always-hot (black), switched-hot (red), neutral (white), and earth.
Timer2 to fan contains switched-hot (black remarked red), neutral (white) and earth.
The remarking of black to red is not a Code requirement but it makes the circuit easier to understand by making colors match wire function.
At timer1, the timer connects to always-hot (black) and switched-hot (red).
At timer2, ditto.
Wow, that was easy.


Turn of the valve under the sink, remove the hose from the valve to the faucet and check for water flow by opening the valve (use another hose and bucket.) Good flow? Then you have something plugging the waterway from the valve, in the hose or the faucet itself.


Why don't my appliances work when my tester shows voltage at the outlets?

Most commonly if you are getting power to the receptacles is a loose neutral. Especially if you are only using a non contact voltage tester. It will show power but there is no return.

Good luck


How to add a new cable box to an existing stud wall

If you have access to the top plate of the wall and the wall has no insulation, that's super easy:

Get a low-voltage, existing work rough-in box from the hardware store.
Cut a hole in the wall for your box. Make sure you are at least a couple inches away from a stud, although dead center between to adjacent studs makes the process easier.
Drill a 1/2" hole in the exact middle of the top plate.
Drop the cable down through the top plate.
Stick your hand in to the wall through the hole you cut through the drywall and grab cable.
Done!

If the wall is insulated, the procedure differs based on what kind of insulation you have. If the insulation is soft, such as blown-in cellulose or batting, then instead of just dropping the wire in you need to use something stiff to push through the insulation. The proper tool would be a fish tape or similar, but if the distance isn't too long you could use a hanger or similar.

If the insulation is rigid foam or sprayed in foam then you will need to carve a channel through the insulation. The easiest way to do that is with a long drill bit designed for drilling through cross-members inside a wall. The only difficult part is knowing where the drill bit ends up because they don't always travel straight. I've had success drilling the initial hole through the top plate almost adjacent to a stud, and aiming the long drill bit towards the stud. (Not at the stud; towards and long the stud.) The drill bit can then follow the stud down the wall. That should make it easier to locate the cavity you've drilled out.

And don't forget that repairing drywall is pretty easy in the grand scheme of things. If you need an extra hole(s) then don't worry about it.

When you're all done, make sure to fill the hole you drilled in the top plate with fire stop caulk or foam.


Air conditioning fan not turning, motor very hot

Your idea that the capacitor is bad is probably correct.  With a bad capacitor, the fan can't kick off and start turning, but there is still electricity running through it.  No fan turning means no cooling so that heat builds up.  Having a capacitor go bad unnoticed can actually damage the fan as well because of this heat.

You tried turning the fan, which is a good troubleshooting step.  Since it does turn, replace the (inexpensive) capacitor.  If the motor doesn't come on after that, it could be damaged.  You could try to check the resistance of the motor coils, but you'd need to find a reference for your fan motor to know what "good" was.


How an I retrofit smart bulbs in a LED fixture?

Option 1 - Replace Fixtures
Loosen the two screws in the slots. Rotate the fixture so that the screws end up in the larger holes at the ends of the slots. Pull the fixture down. You should find wires from the fixture connected to either individual wires or a cable coming from the electric supply. There may be multiple cables/wire sets - supply, switch, feed to other fixtures. Take pictures before disconnecting anything. Generally speaking, there will be 3 connections (hot, neutral, ground) to remove/replace in order to replace the fixture.
Advantages: Individual fixture control, multi-color control (with some LEDs).
Option 2 - Replace Switches
Similar to above (easier, because you don't need to climb up to the ceiling), but at the switch instead of the fixture.
Advantages: 1 switch might control several fixtures, no need to figure out the right size for each fixture (both physically and amount of light), safer as switch can always manually override "smart" controls.


100 Amp Sub-Panel in Detached Garage - Which Wire and Breakers for Code Compliance?

You need to use wiring methods compatible with the wire.  For instance XHHW wires aren't  allowed outside conduit, so you either extend the conduit the full run, or transition to a type of cable that is rated for direct use.  They do make individual wires rated for direct use, check with your supplier (who I hope isn't a big-box store).

You cannot splice in an LB. *  Put that right out of your head.  You'd need an appropriately sized junction box, and since we're dealing with large size wire, you need to follow the wire-radius rules, not just the cubic-inch rules.  So you'd want a gutter, specifically.

1/0 may be larger than you need.  1 AWG Al should be legal for 100A (you are allowed to work out of the 75C column for >=100A feeders) and your distance isn't enough to warrant a voltage bump (put your distance, 40A for the charger, 240V and 6% into the voltage drop calc and see what it says).

The feeder run must be protected.  The main breaker in the subpanel is in the wrong place to do that, so you need a 100A breaker in the main panel  A normal breaker is fine.

The subpanel doesn't need a main breaker. However since it is an outbuilding, it needs a shutoff switch.  Using a panel with a main breaker is an overkill, but cheap, way to do that.

When used as a shutoff switch, as in here, the size of the subpanel's main breaker does not matter. If you're getting a small-ish panel to obtain a panel with a 100A main breaker, don't do that!  Spaces are rather valuable (super cheap to add now, super expensive to add later) and you don't want to have to have a future project compromised because you refused to spend a few latte's on a bigger panel today.

Also you want to avoid the necessity to go to "double-stuff" (twin, duplex) breakers simply to achieve needed density; most breakers today need AFCI,GFCI or both and that is they don't make those in double-stuff.

You need 1 ground rod if proper testing proves it to be <25 ohm to earth (this is specialized testing, not a pocket VOM) - otherwise you need two.

* Ever buy a product with 10 warning labels because some people need disclaimers to not eat things they shouldn't?  Well, here's one.  If the LB is excessively large for the wires that are in it, e.g. if you used a 6" LB, then you get to treat it under the junction-box/gutter rules, and count the dimensions to determine whether a splice here is legal.  But normal people don't do that, because it's an expensive way to get a junction box.


Garage door only closes if you hold the button down even with the safety sensors disconnected

I have had this happen twice, and it was due to the safety sensors being disconnected. Once I reconnected them and adjusted them to face each other, it fixed it.


What should the water main connect to first: carbon filter or water softener?

The filter can help keep the softener from getting dirty while the filter doesn't care if it gets hard or soft water. So I'd have the filter first.


Hi i have had my stove isolator moved but having some problem now. the circuit breaker stays up for a while then trips

[I did X and bad things happened - what can be the cause of the bad things?]

X!

  [and what should I do about it?]

I'd check that stove isolator very carefully, particularly the wiring, which wires connect where, the quality of all connections in its vicinity, the amount of room in the box, the possibility of exposed metal or wires coming into contact with each other as the box cover is closed and the quality of any reused or replacement parts.

If you paid someone to move the isolator, that person/business should be fixing your problem for free.


What breaker configuration should I use for a 240v shed circuit?

Since this would be a sub-panel install, ground and neutral are NOT connected - they are isolated. There is but one bond between them per code, and that one already exists in the system that the power is coming from.

I'd tend to agree with S.P. that your prior experience is either too long ago or too unrelated to what you are doing for it to seem a great idea for you to dive into this, unless you'd care to prove me (us) wrong by actually doing some research and modifying your question. Going into it half-cocked and not actually understanding things like why there are 4 wires and the neutral (grounded) and ground (grounding) conductors are isolated seems a recipe for disaster I'd rather not encourage.


This answer is for North America, with U. S. wiring colors.

Do not attempt this unless you are confident you can learn the path and purpose of every wire. You should use both a continuity tester and a voltage detector, such as a small light bulb, that draws some actual power from the circuit under test.

You are looking at a ceiling junction box with three cables, each with a ground (bare, green, or green/yellow), white, and black wire. Most likely BUT TEST TO MAKE SURE one cable is the power source, one goes to the switch, and one continues on to deliver to another junction box.

You need to figure out which cable is which.

First -- with the power on, carefully test each black & white pair for the presence of line voltage. One of these pairs will light your lamp; the other two will not. If you get any other result, stop and call an electrician. Remember which pair has power. Turn off the circuit breaker again.

Next -- use your continuity tester to find which cable goes to the switch. You don't need to disconnect the switch for this, but it's easier if you turn it off.

The remaining cable continues to the next junction box and provides power to another part of your house. You should have noticed by now that some of your outlets and lights stopped working when you ripped these wires apart. If you do not see this condition, stop and call an electrician. Use your continuity checker to prove that this cable is connected to the dead outlets and lights.

When you are very confident that you know what loads are powered by this cable, connect it to the power cable, white to white and black to black, and flip on the circuit breaker. Check that the dead outlets and lights are now working. If you get any other result, stop and call an electrician.

Turn off the circuit breaker.

Now connect all the grounds together. I like to include a connection to the junction box, if it is metal.

Connect the white wire from the switch to the black wire from the fixture. Mark both ends of this white wire with colored paint or tape.

Connect all the remaining white wires together.

Connect all the remaining black wires together.

You should end up wired like this:


Bathroom Wiring - Existing light - Add Bath fan - Add gfci outlet

If we are talking recent code, NEC requires a 20A circuit dedicated to bathroom receptacles. This circuit cannot service lighting in other rooms but there is an exception for what you contemplate: to service a 10A or less load for fan and lights in the one bathroom. The point of this requirement is so that your blow dryer doesn't pop the circuit.

When you modify this circuit you need to bring it up to code and that may prove difficult if the branch servicing that light switch is only 15A and/or services other light switches (as I suspect it does). Getting this up to code would then require you to run a new 20A branch circuit from the service panel.

Having said that, either of your proposed configurations works fine. There is no problem pigtailing off the line in the switch box to install an unswitched outlet box elsewhere. Just do this on the line side of the switch.

  [210.11(C)(3)] One 20A, 120V branch circuit must be provided for the receptacle outlets required by 210.52(D) for all dwelling unit
  bathrooms. This 20A bathroom receptacle circuit must not serve any
  other outlet, such as bathroom lighting outlets or receptacle outlets
  in other rooms (Fig. 1). A 15A, 125V receptacle is rated for 20A
  feed-through, so it can be used for this purpose [210.21(B)(3)].

  [210.11(C)(3), Exception] A single 20A, 120V branch circuit is permitted to supply all of the outlets (including outlets for lighting
  and equipment) in a single bathroom, as long as no single load
  fastened in place is rated more than 10A [210.23(A)] (Fig. 2).


a) Grind concrete until it is flat, then grout the remaining cracks.  You'll have an even thinner but flat floor, problem will likely re-occur.

or

b) Pour thicker new concrete over the top, with steel mesh, to make a more resilient replacement floor.  Might still crack, as base is suspect.

or

c) Cut out & remove the failed floor, inspect the base to determine true cause, remove failed layers, install proper bedding, insulation layer & damp proof membrane, re-pour concrete.


Do I need to add a circuit breaker to the outdoor panel that powers my RV?

Yes, you'll want a 30A breaker just to protect the RV.

Breakers protect wires.   In the case of an RV, the internal wiring system is built to withstand onboard loads demanding 30A.  But if an onboard load has a problem, or if the wiring has a problem, and it suddenly starts pulling 100A, the RV depends on that external breaker to trip.  Otherwise you could have an RV fire.

Even if the RV has a little subpanel on board, most likely the subpanel is "oversubscribed" and it'd be possible for all circuits to run at max, trip no RV breakers and pull considerably more through the internal wiring between the panel and the shore power connection.


Light Switch Tripping Adjacent GFCI circuits

I found disconnecting one of the fluorescent lights solved my issue. The light is hanging on the ceiling with a metal chain, then to a metal hook through the metal ceiling panel. Maybe some ground current is leaking into the metal panels of the building causing the GFCI to trip on other circuits, or maybe something with the emi. Either way I’ll be replacing the light and the issue is resolved.


I would not remove any of the cement, except for vacuuming and brushing to make sure the surfaces are clean so the stone can be glued back in place with construction adhesive. Keep the glue far from the edges so it does not show, should any try to squeeze out. Prop it in place until the glue dries, a day or two will do and it will stay.


Why can't some light bulbs be used with timers?

Timers come in two varieties:

Timers with a neutral wire.  These are connected between the hot and neutral wires of the circuit, parallel to the load.  They're powered like any other device, and work by switching the hot (and possibly neutral) wires of the controlled circuit.  These timers can control any device, but require a location with access to both the hot and neutral wires.
Timers without a neutral wire.  These are connected in series with the load, and work by restricting the current through the hot wire of the controlled circuit.  Because they use the load as part of their own power circuit, they can only control resistive loads (essentially, light bulbs and some electric heaters), but can be installed anywhere (in particular, as a drop-in replacement for a light switch where only the hot wire passes through the switch box).

LED and fluorescent bulbs (and motors, and...) don't work properly with the second type of timer, either because they require a sufficient current to let any electricity flow, or because too low a current will damage them.


How close can I bury circuits to each other?

If this run is going to an  outbuilding and will be inspected, you can't have more than 2 circuits without a sub-panel. If an outbuilding, you need to run a 4 wire (2 hots, neutral and ground) to a sub-panel, add ground rods at the structure, and insure the grounds are isolated from the neutral. Running fewer wires (the 4 wire feed) feeding a sub-panel might actually be less expensive than running 3 separate circuits (which isn't code legal for that long a run anyway) and give  you a much more flexible/expandable setup going forward.


Wiring 240v where 12/2 wire using a 20 amp circuit breaker is present

You would need to change out all the receptacles from NEMA 5-20 or 5-15 (125V) to NEMA 6-20 or 6-15 (250V) - it is a gigantic violation and hazard to supply 240V on a 120V outlet.

As such, running a new dedicated wire for the heater (if even needed) would appear to make the most sense, as you probably don't have many things with 240V plugs to plug in.


By "drywall screws", I think you are meaning 1 5/8" blued screws. I do not think that they would be a good choice. We usually shoot down plywood subflooring with 2 1/2" to 3" ring shank nails, however 2" to 2 1/2" decking screws work well, but just a lot more work. I would encourage you to use a little adhesive on top of the floor joists or strips of felt paper or Grace ice/water shield to avoid any squeaks later on.


How do I install a GFCI in a box with two 2-wire cables and one 3-wire cable?

Easy peasy.  Most GFCI receptacles have a method to attach 2 wires to each LINE screw.
That is exactly what you do.  The two black wires go on the brass LINE screw.  The 1 white wire goes on the silver LINE screw.  And you're done.


Why would a 240v line voltage thermostat have a blank display?

Sounds like a dead thermostat.

When it was working before, it hadn't died yet.

Why it died is likely to remain a mystery. Things don't live forever (neither do people - dragons might, per one song.)

Replace it.


How do I get the Nest Thermostat to warm up my house prior to arrival

You can use an application like Stringify on your phone to do this.

The application can be configured with a geofence around your home.  As the phone is detected entering the fenced zone, i.e. you are approaching home, it can switch your Nest to home mode.  Alternatively, set a fence around work and have it set Nest to home mode as you leave work.

There is a "Flow" to do this on their website.  You can play with this to adapt it to your needs.

Alternative such phone apps include IFTTT and Zapier.

(Of course, you could also replace Nest with one of the competitor smart thermostats that do all this GPS phone integration automatically anyway.)


How can I remove an electrical junction box that is attached to a stud, without damaging the surrounding wall?

Have you tried going to Home Depot and playing with the boxes there? If you find one that matches, you can hold the box in your hands and try to wiggle it out of the bracket. That might help you figure out the right way to extract the box in your wall from its bracket. Even bring a screwdriver to take out the screw.

I always figure that it would be entirely within store policy to buy the box, take it outside and examine it like this without damaging it and then return it so why not just avoid the extra paperwork and do it inside.


Adding a bathroom fan (and speaker) to end line switch

To me it looks like you probably have a  switch leg going from the light to the switch (1 cable with a black and white possibly a ground. That cable the whit should be connected to the hot and the black to the hot for the light when the switch is turned on the black provides the power to the light. If I were making the change I would use “smurf tube” flexible nonmetallic conduit and make the following changes.

All the wires for the circuit have to be in the same cable or to have 3 switches you would need 3 cables , run conduit “smurf tube” and all the wires can be in that conduit.  You said 14 awg wire so I will assume you verified this is a 15 amp circuit. If it is a 20 amp circuit you would need 12 awg.

I would pull 1 black conductor for the feed to the 3 switches, 1 white conductor for the neutral (code requires the neutral even if not needed for future smart switches).
A ground wire only 1 is needed.
Last I would pull 3 red wires (you can use black just label them so you know 1,2,3).
Cap the neutral it’s not needed, put the light on 1, fan on 2 and usb on 3 , connecting the devices in the attic with neutral.

Depending on what code version there may be a way to have a 2nd double switch leg using 14-3 but you need to bring the hot down in this cable also, and return the 2 switched hots and would not have the neutral , there are a few states on older code the only question would they allow this to 1 yoke (3 switches on 1 device it was ok with multi gang boxes and devices and how we did it sometimes prior to needing the neutral.

The first way is modern code the 2nd may be depending on your jurisdiction.


How can I remove material from this wood beam?

What about trimming the roller shade?  Most shades are meant to be trimmed, since manufacturers can't make every single size.  See if you can pop off one of the ends, and then cut the rolled-up shade with a utility knife or something similar.


GFCI won't reset even though circuit is ok

First, GFCI trips are a fairly quiet snap. The big loud "pop" might actually be a terminal screw arcing against the steel box.

Second, backstab connections (which you jab in and it grabs the wire) are well known to be unreliable, and you're not allowed to use them twice, because the spring is sprung and now they're even more unreliable.  How do you keep it straight? Easy, never use backstabs ever.

As far as neutrals and grounds, some folks treat them as if they are mixable and interchangeable.  Both amongst each other, and amongst other circuits that may be in the vicinity.  It's OK for grounds to intermingle with other grounds, since their one job is safety.  However neutrals must not mix with grounds or neutrals from other circuits, because their one job is returning normal current from their partner "hot" wire.  They are not fused so they depend on that not to overload.  Also, GFCIs depend on this for how they work.

This problem can also show up as a neutral screw rubbing against a ground wire or metal box.

And what can really getcha is an MWBC, two hots sharing a neutral by design.  If there's an extra hot in any of your cables, that's what that is. MWBCs are safe if wired corrctly, but do not play nice with GFCIs.

Now I don't know exactly what "as instructed" told you to do. GFCI's have a set of terminals called LOAD, and a novice thinks "sure, they're the second set of terminals like most sockets have".  Nuh-uh.  They are covered with a piece of tape that says "do not use unless you know what you're doing" in as many words.  The LOAD terminals confer GFCI protection to all of the circuit downstream.  But if that circuit's wiring has any defects like I discuss above, that will result in instant trip.

The short answer is don't use the LOAD terminals at all. 90% of homeowner use of the LOAD terminals is because their old socket had an extra set of hots and neutrals going to it, and they didn't know what else to do with those wires.  That doesn't count as "knowing what you are doing".  Not using the LOAD terminals requires a new skill: the pigtail and a few extra supplies.

The long answer is take your wiring all apart and figure out how each cable connects to different boxes.  Then come off the LOAD terminals to the next receptacle only, unhooking any wires that go beyond that.  Power up and test.  If it passes, power down and add the next segment.  One at a time.  Eventually, adding sometimg will cause it to trip.  That is the problem item.

If everything hooks up, then fit everything back in the junction box one device at a time.  Power up and test again.  This is where you detect screws contacting metal boxes and stuff like that.  If you put them all back together at once, and it trips, you'll have no idea why.

Divide and conquer.

If you caught the bolded text above, you now realize that a socket downline of the load terminals of a GFCI is protected by that GFCI.  Putting another GFCI there is wasted, it's playing a "yo dawg" joke on yourself.  You may also want to rethink whether you want lights GFCI protected, since a GFCI trip will plunge you into the dark with hands inches from a spinning saw blade.


I need to switch between two 240V 30A loads

You need the right switch.

Poles are the number of independent channels the switch has - single-pole, double-pole, triple-pole, or n-pole.  You need double-pole but triple would be nice as I consider it elegant to also switch neutral, it being a conductor.

Throw is the number of output options.  "Single-throw" means it can only connect Common to output 1, or not. "Double" means it connects Common to outputs 1 or 2. You need double-throw.

The 3032-2x and MS302-DS are double-pole single-throw (DPST) switches.
The 1286 is SPDT, i.e. a common 3-way switch.
The MS303 is 3PST since it's for 3-phase power.
The 1288 is DPDT.  Bingo!

The different prices reflect different ratings (MS=Motor Start, tungesten, ballast etc.) or the varying difficulty of cramming all that into the small 1-gang form-factor.  The 1288 works pretty hard, hence the price.

If you don't like paying $60 for a switch that crams this functionality into a 1-gang yoke, then visit your local electrical supply house and ask them for other options which may trade form-factor for price. A big-box store is not an electrical supply house.

Better, a subpanel with a "generator interlock"

If you spend time around here, you'll hear us preach a lot about getting panels with lots of extra spaces.  That's because a full panel is intolerable.  It cripples you and forces you into bad or expensive compromises.   So with an eye toward that and future expansion...

... fit a subpanel somewhere appropriate.  Feed it normally, from the current 30A dryer circuit.  Then "mis"use a generator interlock kit (such as this sensibly priced Siemens one for Siemens panels) to interlock your dryer's and other load's breaker so they can't be on at once.  Voila.  (Normally with these interlocks, you backfeed the panel with one of two power sources. In this case you're normal-feeding two loads, and interlocking the loads.)

At some later happy day, you retrofit larger cable and turn this panel into a more useful subpanel.

Automatic knock-off

Ironically this may break out as the cheapest option.  The idea is to power both receptacles all the time unless the dryer is drawing power, then shut off the other one with a normally-closed relay.   You'll need a large steel box to put this in (a 5" square deep box is not excessive), and then a listed relay+transformer combo device, in which a transformer makes just enough 24V to operate the integral relay. That way you will be using low voltage with oddball parts, and Code is greatly relaxed.

The relay needs to be DPST-NC (normally closed) (meaning 2-pole, normally on). Typically these mount in a 1/2" knockout hole.  It will provide 2 low-voltage wires, and when they are shunted (shorted), the relay operates.  This means it'll have at least 8 wires: 4 for the DPST contacts, 2 to supply lineside power to the transformer, and 2 for the aforementioned 24V wires.

The two 24V wires go to both sides of a magnetic reed switch.  These typically throw at 10 ampere-turns. Since a dryer draws 23 amperes on full, that's plenty. It's simply a matter of finding the right geometry that the reed switch likes.   Generally, in wiring, it is mandatory to lay all hots and neutrals tightly parallel to each other so their EMF fields cancel each other out.  In this case we do the exact opposite on purpose.  Experiment with laying the reed switch crossing at 90 degrees, or parallel to the wire.  All of this must happen inside the steel box.

On a dryer, 80% of current flow will be on the two "hots".  The neutral can be kept out of it.  Also feel free to calibrate it so the dryer doesn't trip on "fluff/no-heat".

Retrofit grounds

The only thing that scares me about this advice is a lot of dryer circuits have 3-wire (ungrounded) service.  This is a Very Bad Idea, because the switching/interlocking scheme creates so many new and unimagined ways for "the NEMA 10 problem" to emerge -- in which all grounded surfaces of your appliances are energized at 120V.

The safe answer here is to retrofit a ground. I know, I know, long and difficult wire run -- fortunately the ground can be retrofitted as a separate #10 wire, and it can follow a separate route, and it only needs to reach any grounded location that has #10 wire back to the same panel, or anywhere on the grounding electrode system.


Why would a dryer receptacle trigger another receptacle to quit working

CALL YOUR UTILITY. NOW!
I'll bet you have either lost neutral or a lost leg. Either one can produce nasty results. My best guess is a lost leg - that would result in 1/2 your 120V circuits getting 120V, 1/2 your 120V circuits getting nothing at all unless a 240V appliance like a dryer is turned on and your dryer getting 120V instead of 240V (and therefore you get motor and controls but either no heat or minimal heat).
This can be an internal problem - e.g., loose wire in your main panel. But it is quite likely that it is a problem with the power getting from the street into your house. Call your utility. Tell them you think you have a lost leg or lost neutral. If they have no idea what you are talking about, just tell them you have an intermittent power outage and are concerned about safety.
In (almost all) places, they will check it for free and if the problem is outside they will fix it for free. If they determine it is a problem inside your house then they will tell you to call an electrician. If you start with an electrician then (unless it is a close friend or relative) you will most likely have to pay the electrician for a visit and still end up calling the utility to fix it. So start with the utility company.
Meanwhile, unplug any sensitive electronics or expensive appliances, as the problem may result in varying voltage which can really ruin things pretty quickly.


How do I properly nail two 2x4's at a 90 degree angle?

Nails are generally put in at 90 degrees to the wood (i.e. straight in), unless you are "toe-nailing". (see picture)

It all really depends on the application. As opposed to just nailing straight in, like if you were nailing together a built-up beam (face nailing) - Toe nailing the wood is usually not bearing much or any weight on the nails, they are holding wood in place.

If the wood is going to be horizontal and bearing weight, face-nailing parallel members is good. However, for perpendicular members, I would want structural hardware in end nailed or toe-nailed pieces (joist hangers, angle brackets, etc.).

  I've read though, that the pros like nail at a 45 degree angle, so that the nail doesn't go through the end piece of the horizontal 2x4, but through the top part. Is this correct? I don't like having the end part of the nail stick out.. even if I hammer the sharp point towards the wood.

If the nail sticks out the other end, you should use shorter nails.


GFCI not triggered after installing AFCI / GFCI breaker

GFCI plug in testers with a trip button won't work without some ground connection.  When the test button is depressed it is basically a high resistance leak to the ground pin, with no ground wire connected the test fails.

Specifically this type of device:

Additionally: If the outlet is GFCI protected but has no ground it should be marked "GFCI protected No Equipment Ground" with the stickers that came with the device.


Possible explanations for a hissing toilet

There should be a tube coming from the ballcock valve (Korky unit) going to the overflow pipe with a clip holding it onto the edge of the pipe. The purpose of that is to run some water down directly to the bowl after the flapper closes in order to refill the bowl (and help take care of "Klingons" on the side). I have found Korky fill valves to be especially susceptible to leaking through to that bowl refill tube continuously. The water runs along the side of the overflow pipe, so it's hard to see. You don't see anything going over the top of the overflow pipe and if you put dye in the tank you don't see it leaking. But if you pull that bowl refill tube off of the clip, you will see a small stream or drip of water coming out.


How should I connect a new outlet cable to a box with two existing cables?

Assuming that one cable is the incoming power and one goes out to more outlets or lights, just keep everything connected by color--blacks together and whites together.

I'm a little concerned that you're doing electrical work without the skills to trace a simple circuit, though. Please be sure that you have an understanding of proper connection techniques, wire size requirements, and other best practices. A little reading of a house wiring guide would be wise. You don't want to burn your house down.


Relocate central air conditioners to roof

I like it! On the roof isn't enough, let's put it on the roof of the roof's bump-out room. NICE!

Then, you'll need to add a tiny access bump-out on that roof...just a cherry on top of my thinking, instead of hauling out a ladder.

Yep, you're good to go and any structural issues could be fairly cheap and quick for their few hundred pounds by just doubling-up the rafters...pretty doubtful it would be needed.

It's definitely pricey and quite involved, but can absolutely be fully accomplished. You could even do a pretty little widow's walk style fence up there to beautify it. Not impeding air-flow is important, but shading the sides from the Sun is a performance and efficiency booster.


Gas range top burner - fuel line blocked between valve and burner orifice

I was able to clear the blockage.  I considered a number of different cleaners to see what I might use.  All of them said don't use on aluminum.  The gas line is aluminum.  I settled on dawn dish detergent in water.  Soaked it overnight from the burner side.  Applied compressed air to the valve side of the gas line and it eventually blew out the obstruction.


Will a shade sail have too much pull on 4x4x12' posts?

It isn't a question of post size. Well, it is, but you have bigger concerns: The brackets will not serve your purpose. They're mostly designed to anchor the base of the post, and to keep it off the concrete. They don't provide nearly enough stability to keep a post standing under load.

Your posts must be embedded a substantial distance into the concrete. 1:3 is a good rule of thumb for anything carrying lateral loads. (Heck, the concrete does nothing at all for you in your scenario.) Or they must be supported with rigid crossbars or diagonals of adequate length.

If your posts will actually be 12' above ground, and they're not supported with any sort of diagonal bracing, you will want 6x6s (or at least 4x6s). 4x4s will flex and bounce substantially at that height.


Adding sockets to a ring circuit in the UK

Before you do any adding of sockets, you should check the size of the cable used for the ring main.
If it is 2.5mm^2 and still in good condition then extending the ring is not a problem, but don't just add spurs to the ring. It is  better to increase the ring loop to encompass the new sockets and, while you are at it, add more than you need ie be generous - it is very annoying to have to come back yet again...
Also check the breaker supplying the ring, if as you state the consumer unit has been recently changed then all should be fine.


When an AFCI or GFCI breaker is tripped or turned off does it break the neutral line also?

GFCI's must break neutral
GFCIs (of all types) are required to break hot and neutral, unlike regular fuses, switches, or breakers.  This is not spelled out in UL 943, but is implied by the requirement in UL 943 6.7.2.2 that a GFCI must still trip and disconnect the load circuit from power if the line-hot and line-neutral connections are interchanged.
Some AFCIs also break neutral, although they are not always required to
Because early AFCI designs were derived from GFCIs, they inherited the property of breaking the neutral (as well as being sensitive to gross ground faults).  However, some more modern designs (Mod 3 THQL AFCIs, most notably) dispense with the ground-fault detection, and thus may or may not break the neutral wire.  (As to the standards: UL 1699 13.3 requires receptacle-type AFCIs to break neutral, whereas circuit-breaker/loadcenter-type AFCIs have the option to not do so.)


Mounting a 1-gang alarm panel over a 2-gang hole

Well, it seems unlikely to be easily solved with a 2-1 gang reducer, or at least
I've not met one that also turns the single gang 90 degrees. With a 4 or 4-11/16 square box you just use a one-gang and it could be mounted either way, but that's not what you have.

Three options:

Hot-glue (or epoxy) the nuts to the back of the faceplate.
Place the alarm panel slightly above or below center so that you can
drill holes in the alarm back to access one set of mounting screws
through it, and access the other set directly above or below the
alarm panel.
If the LV ring is square, (they are pretty close to square, but sometimes just a bit off) unscrew, remove, rotate, screw in, and then use a 2-gang to 1 gang "centering" trim plate, which are commonly available.


How can I repair a plastic dowel in a cabinet

Use an appropriately sized plastic wall anchor, cut down to match the depth of the hole:

Instead of the large fastener designed for the original plastic plug, use a short self-tapping sheet metal screw, as large as will fit the hole in the hinge base. Put wood glue in the hole prior to inserting the anchor and screwing it all together.


Drywall anchors or wood studs when securing a TV?

Hit the studs, do not trust drywall anchors to hold up a TV.


There are various wood treatment products that will help prevent termites from chewing on it and setting up a homestead. Many contain copper napthenate, which soaks into the wood when brushed or sprayed on. You asked how to "repel" them, and this works on wood. If you are looking to repel them some other way, can't really comment unless you more fully describe what it is that you want to do.


How do I keep drywall around a patch from crumbling?

Sounds like a bad spot in the drywall, maybe caused by water damage, or physical abuse. You're probably best to keep cutting until you find a good section, though you may get away with simply taping and mudding the joint. The tape should hold the section together, so even if the plaster is crumbling it will be held in place. If you opt to just tape and mud, there is no guarantee you won't develop a crack in the future.

If it were me, I would keep cutting (at least to the next joist). If you're lucky the bad section will not extend that far, or at the very least won't extend farther than a full sheet of drywall. You could try to patch it with compound, but it's not likely you'll be happy with the results.


Can I add a wye fitting to this cast-iron drain stack?

Once you verify all is working, go for it...shower drains are usually 2"...looks like you can cut a 3 x 2 - Y  or tee on vertical...not sure where shower is going to be installed? Tank looks vented, be sure to throw a trap on shower drain...
Good luck


Where can I find a key for my old locks?

We bought a home built in the 1870s which was updated in the 1930s. None of the interior doors had keys. Went to a local locksmith and explained the problem. They actually sell a set of common skeleton keys - it was around 5 if my memory serves and under $20. You just keep trying until one works.

Lot cheaper than a house call.


Why are there 2 wires taped together? 2 white and 2 black

That's known as a pigtail. A black and white wire come in to feed the box, a black and white wire leave the box to feed something else. They are connected together with that short piece to feed the outlet. It's easier than messing with 4 wires in and out of the outlet and replacing outlets is easier.
Those connections should be redone with wire nuts and the connections to the outlets should be on the screws, not the backstabs. Shepherd hook the Black wire to brass screw, white wire to silver screw. If those wires are aluminum you'll need special outlets and block connectors.


Does anybody know what this mini vise-like tool is?

It's a Wrench Force Mini Chain Tool. You rivet and break bike chains with it.


Why doesn't my light stay on unless I wiggle the switch?

Recommendation - Replace the Switch
A light switch is a very simple, but also inexpensive, item. So (a) they shouldn't go bad very often, but (b) replacement is pretty simple.
It is actually quite possible that the problem is not the inside of the switch but rather one of the wires. The wires may be connected via screws (preferred) or through "back-stab" connections. Back-stabs are faster (by a few seconds) than screw terminals, but more prone to bad connections.
If it were me, I would buy a new matching switch - either regular or Decora - matching the existing style & color of your current switch. Make sure it is a regular switch, not a 3-way switch, unless you actually have a 3-way switch (2 switches in different locations that control one set of lights).
SAFETY FIRST:
Turn off the breaker (you mention "fuse", but on an 11 year old house you should have breakers). WARNING: If the box with the switch also has other switches (e.g., fan) or receptacles, there may be more than one live circuit in the box. So after turning off the circuit for the light, make sure than any other devices (e.g., fan, receptacles) that relate to that box also do not have power. In particular, you may have receptacles on a different circuit from the lights so that a GFCI breaker trip from a bad appliance won't turn out the lights. So make sure there is NO POWER going to the box when you have it open. The pros (and serious amateurs...) may not be as particular about that, but if you are new to this, better safe than sorry.
Remove the cover plate. Unscrew and remove the switch. If you have other switches or receptacles in the same junction box, don't mess with them! One thing at a time so you don't get your wires confused.
For an ordinary single switch, you should have 2 regular wires (hot & switched hot) plus a ground wire. There is no functional difference on an ordinary (not dimmer, not timer, not "smart") single switch between the hot & switched hot connectors.
For a 3-way switch, you should have 3 regular wires (hot or switched hot, 2 travelers), plus a ground wire. In this case, it is absolutely critical that you wire things up correctly based on first figuring out which wires are the travelers and connecting to the appropriate screws based on the switch installation instructions. Screw positions may vary between brands/models of switches - e.g., travelers could be on the same side on one switch and on opposite sides (e.g., both top or both bottom) on another switch.
End result - if this is a single switch the whole process should only take a few minutes. If it is a 3-way switch, you may want to read up on that a bit first as it can be confusing.


Two HVAC units on one condensate drain line

I would never use the same line for units on separate levels for this very reason, it sounds like the line is undersized since it was having trouble and now the load is doubled. What brand are the units? I believe it would violate the install instructions to T 2 lines with standard size drain lines and may even void the warranty, this should be mentioned to the land lord.


Will this 3 way switch wiring plan work?

Don't waste your time.  Have a /3 cable bypass the lamps.
This is a rather straightforward problem if you aren't trying to snake the travelers through the bulb sockets.  I know you imagine some great cost savings in wire by doing that... forget it.
Besides... running travelers through the bulb sockets is pointless, and takes up a LOT of splice space inside the box.  The common octagon box doesn't have the cubic inches to spare for those splices.  (you need 2.25 cubic inches per wire entering the box, so passing the travelers through just wastes 9 cubic inches, leaving precious few for the task at hand.
Unless you want to do this with smart switches. Then your "/3 for everything" plan is fine.
The drawings above don't work anyway
The upper drawing, I can't believe it was drawn out in "pro grade" quality, since it's utterly incompetent.  (Here's a paid JustAnswer this was told to a customer; comedy follows.)  With the left switch down, all bulbs are dead (no power enters the system). With the left switch up, your choices are either L2 lit, or both wired in series. "What were they thinking?"
The lower drawing is a is a hillbilly hack to avoid paying for the proper /4 cable, and violates NEC 300.3.
Again, no reason on earth to drag travelers through octagon boxes.  Just have a /3 cable fly from switch to switch, bypassing the lamps.  Then make the lamp string a "spur" off ONE of the switch boxes, all with /2.  And you're done.
Or use smart switches. You need /3 between the smart switch master and all lamps.  (black=always-hot, red=switched-hot, white=neutral).


Turned out the belt fell off!
Removed the front panel, put the belt back on, still works fine.


Is it safe to use old wood lath from demolition as firewood?

There might also be asbestos in the plaster and contaminating the lath.

Did you have the wall tested prior to demolition?  (I'm guessing no)  You may have to be very careful with this material and possibly apply a complex and detailed cleaning of the site to render it safe, sorry to say.

Here's to hoping that it doesn't have asbestos...  In USA the use of asbestos in plaster walls is uncommon prior to 1920, however the wall may have been re-plastered after the house was built.

If you do decide to burn it and it has asbestos or lead in it you may be violating health or pollution laws in your area, but at least make sure that everyone is a long ways away from the fire. (It may be better, eg. safer and more law-abiding, just to hire the appropriate disposal experts and have them clean the site and dispose of the waste)


How to connect a 3 wire plug to a 2 wire outlet?

Disclosure: I'm not an electrician, but I know a few and do my own electrical work to be inspected by more qualified people.

Generally in the manual for such appliances they advise grounding the green wire to the electrical box you would be installing the fan in.

This doesn't really gain much of the benefit of having a ground wire available, as it most likely will not be running to a proper ground.  Regardless, in older houses where ground wiring isn't available most of the time (mine is like this) that's the best you can do.

That said, you may want to consider if possible replacing an upstream outlet near this device with a gfci outlet.  It doesn't require a ground wire, but you can set up ground fault protection for this device without it.  I've been told that is one way to get grounded (eg. 3 prong) outlets in a house with older wiring.   You would have a circuitbreaker -> gfci -> 3 prong outlet configuration.   Then the 3 prong outlet is protected by the gfci.

This might be useful reading as well:
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/replacing-two-prong-receptacles


How to clean the LCD screen of the television?

A slightly damp cloth is good.  You don't want any water to drip into the screen, so "slightly damp" is important.  Many chemicals will damage coatings on the screen, so don't use anything that isn't explicitly designed for electronics.


protecting electrical wires below 8' in open framing garage

Code allows wires in the stud bays below 8'  to be protected with 1/2" sheetrock or plywood. Since you are talking a horizontal run I am not sure if 6" strip would be legal because you could still access the wire, I usually cover the entire wall.


It looks to me like that is just the top layer of paint. Assuming that is the case - i.e., the drywall underneath is not damaged beyond small scratches - you don't need to use any spackle. In fact, doing so would be a lot of work because you don't have any real holes to fill - you'd be sanding nearly all of it off.
However, you can't just paint over the existing paint. You need to sand it down so that you don't have real edges from the old paint. Primer wouldn't hurt. If you are going to repaint the same (or very similar) color & finish then you may be able to get away with primer just over the damaged & sanded areas, but that might result in an inconsistent topcoat.
The most important thing though is that you should repaint the whole wall. Otherwise, even with a near-match on the color, the difference between old & new will be quite obvious. If you use a close-enough color, you can get away with painting just one wall and not the rest of the room.


options for new floor over concrete slab

Visit your local tool rental store. They will have something that will make this much easier. There is pneumatic scrapers and concrete grinders

For the hardwood laminate you dont not need to even remove the old tile but to lay ceramic tile you should


Is my water pressure reducing valve faulty?

Yes, that sounds defective.

A pressure regulator (which is what a PRV is) should stop flow when the pressure exceeds the setting. This sounds like you may have a small leak, which could be from debris trapped in the valve, a scratched valve seat or something like that.

Before spending money on it, determine if the PRV is your responsibility or the water company's responsibility. If it's theirs, they may just come swap it out for you.

Your described behavior (particularly the speed of it) would seem to be a leaky PRV. A slightly different case arises when there is a PRV (which also acts like a one-way or check valve) and a hot water heater, with no expansion tank - then the water pressure can rise when cold water is heated and no valves are open.


How important is EZSteer feature in a Snow Thrower?

A big snowblower can be a lot to horse around in the snow, with slippery conditions underfoot. Remember, you will be turning the thing around at the end of each pass. So much depends on how strong are you, and how heavy is the snowblower.

Even with my little 24 inch Toro, at times it can take some effort to drag it around after I've done 150 feet of driveway, plus a turn around area, plus my neighbor's driveway. Admittedly, I only use the snowblower when the snow is too deep/heavy for the tractor to push, so when I do need to use the snowblower, it is a heavy day for snow.

Is it worth the extra money? That depends on you, the depth of your pockets, etc. I definitely suggest trying it out. Can you turn it easily enough? Don't forget that you will need to do so outside in the blowing snow, multiple times. A little exercise is a good thing of course.


Based on your wiring color and photo, I'm going to assume this is an older house in the US.

First a few things.  Sometimes there are wires in a box that just pass through and go somewhere else, so all the wires might not be used by the switches or outlets in a given box.  It's not unusual to have 5 wires in a switch box.

Also, the ground wire is there for safety.  Lights and appliances don't really "use" the ground, and ideally it should never carry any current.  All ground wires in boxes and fixtures just get connected to each other like a safety net that catches and stray electricity and makes sure it gets back to the main breaker box (to hopefully trip a breaker in a dangerous situation).  Older wiring practices didn't always use the ground, but now almost everything is connected to ground including light switches.

So, for the new switch, hook up the same two wires that go to the old switch and then you will need to "pigtail" the ground and connect it as well.  A pigtail is a short wire that runs from a bundle of wires and connects to a device.  So, it's not a matter of "which" ground wire - it's both.


I spoke with someone at Home Depot, and they made a good point - You're screwing it down on top of the thinset, and therefore you're already on top of the board. The more important part is to let the thinset on the seams (along with the tape) set up for a while (a few hours) before tiling. We did just that, and so far so good - the tiles went down fairly smoothly, though I still need to grout.


So here is the end of the story.   After a week of hot dry weather the breaker didn't trip anymore.  On Friday morning I tired to turn it on and it stayed on.  So wherever the moisture was......was gone.  At this point not sure of this is a temporary fix or log term.  I put some electrical tape around a few of the areas that should already be water tight.  I guess I will find out if temp or perm fix next time we have a bad rain storm.  Cancelled the warrantee repair because I am sure they will fix something this is t broken when they arrive.  Thanks for all the help and advice.


Can I paint and polyurethane my plyfloor or does it have to be covered?

Pro: cheap, and nothing prevents you from putting a real surface on if you find the look does not really appeal after a while.

Cons: Potential for nasty splinters; plywood splinters are miserable. Relatively loud (both to walk on, and acting as a reflector of sound - also loud to the level below if there is living space there).