I'm replacing my outlets and I have too many hot/neutral wires, what do I do?

There are multiple wires because that is how wires are connected to gather to get from the distribution box to the farthest outlet on the circuit.
Where there are not enough screws, you attach the outlets together with a connector with an additional short "pigtail" that goes to the device.
If there is not enough space, you change the box to a deeper one or a wider one. Where you are installing a larger device, that may be required by code. Code has formulas and tables that specify minimum box size. It is a bit difficult to follow and I don't recall how it applies when a different type of device is installed. I think different types of devices are assigned "fill factors" that may be marked on them. The box size may also be marked on it and be readable by looking inside closely with a good light.

Your photo appears to be a USA type device. If you are in the USA , the applicable code is based on the USA National Electrical Code (NEC). There may be local exceptions and additions, but there are usually not many. That and the NEC guide book are often available in public libraries. I believe putting two wires on one screw as suggested by @Tom_Carpenter is not allowed by NEC. Also NEC required any connection to be inside junction boxes that can be opened for inspection. Nothing like that is allowed to be hidden inside a wall.

State and local codes specify who is allowed to install or modify wiring, what permits are required for each job etc. You can get away without following codes, but you could run into trouble when you go to sell your house.

Also, ring wiring as shown by @Tom_Carpenter is not done in the USA.

The Leviton site makes it clear that the side screws are designed for a wire to be looped around in the shape of a shephards's hook. NEC requires terminals that are designed for more than one wire to be so marked. Those types of terminals generally have a groove for each wire or some other mechanism to hold two wires securely. NEC requires all devices to be used and installed in the way they are designed to be used and installed.


Can I add a pendant fixture to ceiling fan?

If you're looking to add a light to an existing ceiling fan, making it a combination fan/light, this will only work if (1) the fan is designed to accept an optional light add-on and (2) you use the light add-on appropriate to your fan. If you don't know what type of fan you have, this will be difficult to find, but you could start by turning off the power and seeing if you can detach a part on the bottom of the fan. If this reveals some wires or wiring terminals you may be in luck; measure any attachment points and look for an add-on from the same manufacturer that would fit.

If you're talking about just swapping out the whole fixture, you could relatively easily replace the existing ceiling fans or light fixtures with new fans or fixtures. Most fixtures are designed to attach to standard ceiling boxes. These sorts of changes can also be easily undone (remove your new fixture and reattach the old one) if needed, which may be useful in your situation. Note that if you're attaching a ceiling fan, you need to be sure the box you're attaching to is rated for fan use (i.e. has a stronger attachment to framing to support the weight/motion of the fan).


Go ahead and do that

A subpanel downstream from a transfer switch is generally an expected thing to have in a standby power system.  125A is a fine size for such (since you likely aren't going to be putting nearly that much load on the standby system), and a 24 or 30 space unit would be not at all out of place here, either.

As to neutrals? It's the transfer switch's job to deal with any neutral shenanigans that may be going on.  Since you are using your generator mainly for backup, I'd pull the neutral bond and put a clearly visible, indelible label on it saying that the bond was pulled and referring to the correct section of the manual to reinstall it if I were in your shoes, by the way -- this means you can have a solidly bonded neutral in your transfer switch, which makes life far easier when it comes to transfer switch selection.


How do I avoid condensation issues with an insulated garage roof?

Based on your comment I think what you will need to do is replace the insulation.

As I said in my comment condensation is caused when warm moist air hits a cold surface, be it a window or roof. If your insulation was sound then this would prevent this happening, but it sounds like it letting the air through to the roof.

I'm reluctant to suggest what to replace it with as I haven't seen the roof - so it might be worth getting someone in to quote for the job and ask them what they intend to do.

If you do decide to replace then putting a semi-permeable membrane up as well will help keep the moisture off the cold surfaces.


Will this shower set work as a replacement in my tub?

What you have purchased is a new shower valve that also comes with the "trim", a shower head and a tub spout.  Together, this is all commonly sold as a kit.  These are made for installing a new shower or a "down to the studs" remodel where you are going to cut the plumbing in the wall to remove the old shower valve and install a new one.

If this is what you intend on doing, then nothing has to match.  You are starting from scratch and you could use any shower valve.

Since you are concerned about "matching", what you probably wanted to purchase was a shower "trim kit" or "refresh kit".  These kits come with new handles and trim pieces but do not come with a valve.  There is no plumbing involved - you're just taking off the shower handle and putting on a new one (well I guess there is a little plumbing to install a new tub spout and shower head).

In this case, the kit must be made for your particular shower valve.  The control handles are the important parts because shower heads and tub spouts are universal (with a few exceptions).

Determining the brand of valve you have can be hard, but luckily you have a very well known valve known as "Mixet".  These were super common in the 80s (not totally sure on decade, but they were very popular).  With that brand name, you should be able to easily find a replacement handle or trim kit.


Judging by the thickness and location of the metal you detected it seems like you might have metal drywall corner bead, which is typically installed on the edges of drywall to reinforce the area and prevent chipping.
Assuming that is what you found, the corner bead shouldn't interfere with the installation of shelves. That doesn't mean there isn't anything else behind the drywall that the stud detector isn't picking up, so proceed with care.


Just bought a house, 70 years old, want to upgrade 2 prong outlets

I would not put a 3-socket outlet on a 2-socket system, even though a lot of electricians do it. The neutral and ground are not the same thing. Neutral is part of the circuit and has electricity flowing through it. Ground does not have electricity flowing through it, unless there is a short. There is already a topic on why you should not connect the ground and the neutral.

If you think you can guarantee an earth ground, then hook it up and test it like this:

(1) hot and neutral CORRECT VOLTAGE

(2) hot and ground CORRECT VOLTAGE

(3) neutral and ground NO CONTINUITY

The outlet should pass all three tests. In other words if you put a connectivity tester on the neutral and ground sockets it should NOT beep. If you put the continuity tester between the neutral and the ground and it throws a huge spark and melts, then you just found out you did something wrong.


Can I apply grout over grout to change the color?

The short answer is no, not without removing the grout that has already been applied, and that is a truly miserable exercise.

The link in the comment from Niall is your best bet.  Sealer/stain.


Shelving units anchored to drywall and metal studs - Load Bearing and Safety Concerns

You could hire a structural engineer to access.

However, you do have the 'test of time' test, they've been there and are working. However, they also appear to be lightly loaded.

Those shelves appear to be very strong and likely properly installed or they would have failed already, or show signs of failing.

You're right be concerned about the wall studs, with shelves like this, the failure point could be the studs themselves. If the stud flange is not braced then it will fail in bending, out of the wall at the top of the shelf bracket, into the wall at the bottom. The screw threads could also pull through the metal of the stud.

If you're concerned about it, than do as you suggest, it seems that you have nothing to lose by removing them. Or it's on the seller to prove that they are ok or at least provide maximum loading.


Sounds like an issue I recently faced. My wife was drying her hair in our bathroom. Two of my children were taking a shower (running the lights and fans). Circuit breaker popped and that half of the house went dark. Turns out someone had spliced into the light circuit inside the attic (the attic lights made it easy) to add these extra outlets to the bathroom. My wife, who had the misfortune of picking one of these outlets (she has an original outlet on a different circuit), put the circuit over amps.

My guess is your lonely outlet has some friends, and may be a "We need an outlet here" hack into a smaller circuit. Determine what is on this circuit first. If you're sharing your circuit with, say, a refrigerator, that could be a big problem.

One way to potentially solve this is, if it's an interior wall adjoining another room, to see if there's an outlet on the other side of the wall (on a different circuit, or you'll just exacerbate your single outlet problem). If you have this type of setup, measure to where the outlet will be along the living room side (make sure you figure out where the studs are as well). Then you can use an old work drywall box and fish a wire through the hole into the existing box and splice off of it. I've done this myself and it's a great way to add more outlets without having to do any extensive wire work.


Five Year Mystery - Unable to find source of burning smell from HVAC system

Do you maybe have a steam humidifier on the furnace?  If it was wired incorrectly or was damaged it could be trying to heat water when the furnace is not running, or when no water was present in the boiler.

How confident are you on the diagnosis of the electrical issues?  I've heard of underground feeders upstream of the breaker panel becoming damaged and heating the ground.

Defrost cycle on a freezer.  These will come on every few days, and they often use an electric heating element that may be damaged or running hot because of a bad thermostat.

If this is a new-ish building, do you have a heat recovery ventilator?  These are separate from the furnace, but are generally connected to the furnace ducting, and they will run all year round.  I think I remember seeing a recall for bad HRV fan motors burning up in at least one brand.

Has anyone else also detected the smell?  Noses are all different, and you might be sensitive or mis-sensing a smell.

I would make friends with a home inspector or someone else with a thermal imaging camera and inspect the area carefully.  If it is caused by something getting hot this is one of the best (only?) ways to find it.  Let us know if you solve the mystery.


How do i replace a 4x4 square box with a 4x4x21/8 box

Be selective about which deep box you use.   Many of them offset the knockouts toward the back, so you can use the same offset bends you're used to doing.


Is it possible to split electricity consumption of an appliance between apartments?

Besides switching which outlet it's plugged into you can instead put a meter on the washing machine while it's permanently plugged into the grid of one of the floors and then have the owner of the other floor pay half the cost every so often.


Why do grindstones produce a finer finish than sandpaper?

A grinding wheel is a fundamentally different tool and is self shaping.  Whereas sandpaper has protruding edges at the resolution of the grit that tend to be lost in whole pieces as the paper wears, the grinding stone instead has a more or less flat surface with voids at the correct resolution.  The other factor is that the grinding stone works at a much higher velocity, which allows it to remove less material per pass than the sand paper, averaging out whatever gouges it creates and functioning the way a higher grit would at a lower velocity.  Even with sandpaper, you will find you can get a finer finish with gentle sanding than with rough.  If you use a sanding wheel to compare, you'll likely have much more similar results, and it also helps to pre-wear the sandpaper before sanding something fine.  When particles come loose from sandpaper they also tend to gouge.  When I'm wet sanding opal, whatever grit I'm using, I abuse the sandpaper a bit first with a suitably soft but less expensive stone to get rid of loose bits and jaggies.  I also have a 4000 grit diamond stone and a 600 grit Arkansas dry stone.  If I wet grind with the Arkansas dry stone, I can actually get a finer finish than with the 4000 grit diamond stone by utilizing the slurry that builds up as I grind, which functions as a much finer than 600 grit polishing paste.
400 grit is about 22 microns big, but if you spin it fast enough, you may only be using the outer 5 or less microns for example.


Should I worry about this pipe insulation? (fiberglass vs asbestos)

Quick test: go outside with a mask and safety glasses, hold at arms length, fiberglass will melt and form tiny beads in a propane torch flame (or perhaps one from a butane lighter), asbestos will glow yellow or white hot without noticeable melting.

Pull a few strands out (while wearing a particle mask) and test them. Normally, I would not advise you going into a site with possible asbestos and disturbing it, but you already have entered it, and live there.


How to measure Voltage without disturbing the circuit?

Older security systems use normally closed switches on doors and windows. They use a magnet and a reed switch to keep the circuit closed.

Then the circuit has a small amount current continuously flowing to monitor the circuit. The resistor is to limit the amount of current flow.

If the door or window is opened, then the alarm goes off. If a burglar cuts a wire, the alarm goes off. If the circuit gets jumpered and current goes higher then it either alarms or goes into trouble mode.

When you measure the voltage in operation and get 5v you are measuring the voltage drop on the resistor. When the circuit is open you are only measuring static voltage and it may not be very accurate.

So, in order to use the circuit without interfering with it, you need a high impedance voltage sensor in parallel with the resistor so it does not significantly increase current flow in the circuit. Then you will need a separate 3.3 volt supply, or take power from the Arduino board. The Arduino may not have enough power for your application so that is when you add an external power supply.

Building a voltage divider in the circuit is problematic as you have already found out.

Good luck!


Termination point at main panel for a 4 wire feeder ground wire to sub-panel in detached structure

Definitely separate out that neutral and ground wire.

Don't bother replacing the aluminum wires

Yeah I know there's some ooga-booga out there about aluminum, but that has nothing to do with your heavy feeder, which is fine stuff and you should keep it. The problem related to very small wires in 15/20A branch circuits, specifically use of outlets and switches whose lugs were rated copper-only, and under political pressure, UL hastily cross-rated them for aluminum without proper testing.  Aluminum lugs are the universal donor, they cheerfully take Al or Cu wire. Hence many panels use Al lugs, correctly and without difficulty.

So all you need for the care and feeding of Al feeder is to keep it clean and use the anti-ox goop.  If you're splicing that somewhere, use insulated Polaris lug splices just big enough for the larger wire; much nicer than using bare splices and wrapping them with globs of electrical tape. The Polaris bars are made of aluminum.

Your #4 Al wire is capable of being fed from a 60A supply breaker.  That is also limited by other segments of cable/wire, as well as the subpanel's bus ampacity if it doesn't have a main breaker of its own.

An outbuilding requires a disconnect switch; 95% of the time you get that by choosing a panel with a main breaker.  That breaker size does not matter for its role as a disconnect switch. You can never count on the convenience of the local "main" tripping first, however, with a 40A "local main" and a 60A feed, it might just work!

Anyway, I'd hold onto that nice ampacity of the aluminum.  I know you've got your plans figured out, but honestly, the world is too full of surprises to ever say that for sure. Whoever guessed they'd work the bugs out of electric cars, for instance.

Retrofitting ground

So yeah. Just pull a #10 Cu ground wire through the conduit, add a separate ground bar to the panel, pull any N-G bonds, and you're all set.

It's a shame you didn't pull the ground wire in (or at least a pulling string) when you pulled the phone/intercom out.  Of course the phone and intercom were completely illegal; you can't put signal wires in the same pipe as mains power.

I wouldn't grab the Ufer ground, but I'd grab the copper wire going right to it.

Generally you can take a retrofit ground back to any of these:

The panel that serves the load
Metal conduit that goes back to that panel, if the metal conduit is rated for carrying grounds (all non-flexible and some flexible conduit is).
Any junction box visited by a branch circuit coming out of that panel, which has a sufficiently large ground wire (any >=30A circuit must have a #10 ground wire, so that would suffice).
Anywhere along the Grounding Electrode System; i.e. the run from the service panel to the grounding rods/pipe/Ufer.


Do fence pickets need to be totally dry before installing?

That depends partly on the fence design. If you're doing something edge-to-edge, installing water-swollen pickets will result in gaps once the wood dries out.

Otherwise, it's more likely that the pickets will warp if left to dry quickly in the sun. The side that dries out first contracts, causing curvature.

That said, pressure-treated lumber is extremely wet to begin with, so it may not matter much. If you get any severely warped pickets you might just have to change them out.

I'd buy an inexpensive tarp and keep it all dry until it's up. Why make the project more challenging than it already is?


Safe to use electrical tape on cracked microwave light socket?

Instead of the tape (or on top of the tape) add a couple of nylon cable ties. Speaking of microwave bulbs, years ago my Kenmore microwave had a burned-out small halogen bulb that was integral to a similar base as yours - no threads, just glued in. No replacement was avaiIable. I broke away the bad bulb and soldered in a standard small halogen. Has worked well for years.


OK, so you do have a security system with cellular notifications...  You are probably aware you can add freeze sensors and flood sensors to communicate alerts through that system.  That is at least some peace of mind if you're out of town and a pipe breaks or the furnace fails.  But I have yet to hear of outdoor sprinkler system alerts.  You might check with the sprinkler system company to ask if anything like that is being developed (if you haven't already asked them).  Another thing to consider is surveillance cameras.  Being able to take a peek using your smart phone now and then is some peace of mind until sprinkler systems can report malfunctions.


stainless steel water heater water quality

Austenitic stainless steel ( non-magnetic) is unlikely to crack with chloride less than 100 ppm. Ferritic stainless ( magnetic - most auto exhaust pipes) will not crack in chlorides. Typical potable water is not corrosive to stainless or copper so galvanic corrosion would only be a problem in you also have plain steel. Although I believe "regular" water heaters are the most practical.


(SOLVED) What is a whining, high pitch sound coming from my furnace when heat kicks in

It's unlikely that going from a larger pipe to a smaller pipe (which is essentially what the flex hose is) would cause that. However, the repair man may have meant that the flex hose was undersized for the gas line inside the furnace, which would make more sense. Expanding flow could certainly cause the noise, but to really figure out what's causing it you'll need a mechanic's stethoscope. They're pretty cheap, but you may even be able to get one as a loaner tool from an auto parts store.


How do I install stucco over an exterior painted stone wall?

Painted stone will not provide any adhesion for the stucco, and you'll get an uneven surface.  You will need to use some masonry nails and a firing hammer and peg up some expanded steel over the stone.  Aim for where the mortar is, assuming there is some.
 Important - Stone walls are not necessarily stable items.  If this is shared with a neighbor, make sure to talk with them about it first. It would not be difficult to crack the stones, and ruin what they think is a beautiful thing.    I'd consider doing a concrete pour - Put some rebar stubs into the wall, add some fencing for extra support, and fill it up.  Great way to add in benches or other features (potting areas, fountains) at the same time.


How to repair wood furniture surface from chemical blemish?

Stain markers are mostly felt pens. You can buy a kit of various colors. Surf the web using 'Stain Markers' as a search term and you will find plenty of suppliers. There is some art to this as each stained wood color needs a very close match to look real. Some of these stains also partially dissolve the existing stain so they merge together. Go slow and do small sections first and check the results. Adjust colors for best match possible. Move the pen or brush in strokes with the grain of the wood, starting with the lightest colors first, then move toward the darkest color. Do NOT coat with a clear lacquer until you are satisfied with the results, because you will need to lacquer the entire surface for it to look right. Use a thick coat so you do not have to do it twice. Doing so can cause ripples in the lacquer.


Brackets For Temporarily Connecting Wooden Frames Together?

Loose pin hinge has a removable pin so the hinge halves can be separated. Examples

https://shopmtn.eu/products/scenery-fixings-loose-pin-hinge
http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/cgi-bin/trolleyed_public.cgi?action=showprod_T61700

and

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/loose-pin-steel-hinge-100x67mm-brass-plated-pair-546135


Refrigerator should be away from LPG cylinder. Why?

If you are talking about a Refrigerator that runs on LP gas the tank needs to be away from the fridge because the fridge has an open flame inside, on a hot day it is possible that the LP tank can vent and release some gas, also when filling or changing tanks their is a small loss of gas, the open flame could ignite the gas and this is the reason the fridge should be separated.


level isn't as important as flat. ⅛" will not affect the appearance of the tile if you use thin set to install. just use a large tooth comb and feel the edges of your tile as you set them. settle high tile with gentle pressure and expect some clean up in the joints. the wood look is forgiving of small irregularities


What kind of glue (adhesive) is likely to be suitable for a heat-lamp surround?

I believe you're looking to repair the plastic trim piece. For that, I would suggest a model cement that would be available at your local big-box retailer (like Walmart, but, since you're in Aus - Bunnings is Aus only, right? - I would hope you don't have those there), or at a hobby shop.
The good model cements will actually slightly dissolve the plastic at the broken edges, then when the solvent evaporates (in a couple of seconds), the plastic will meld together into one solid piece. You're not actually gluing them together, you are, effectively, welding them together. You'll have a nice strong bond, and if done carefully, you won't even see the crack. If you use something like this, you may not even have to get the trim ring off the light, just squeeze the crack together tightly, apply the cement with a cheap, disposable, fine-point brush, and hold it for 5 seconds or so. This type of model cement is going to cost a bit more, but it will make a nearly invisible repair.
If you can't find that (or don't want to pop for the cost), a "regular" type of model cement (for example, Testors™ is the brand I'm most familiar with from my youth) will work as a glue. I'd suggest that you get the trim ring off the fixture and apply the glue from the back. Use it sparingly - it will take quite a bit less than you'd expect - applied to the crack from the hidden side because it can leave a bit of a mess.
Once you've got the repair made, you have, essentially, nothing but the original plastic trim ring, so there's really no need to worry about heat resistance. If the original plastic was sufficiently heat-resistant, the repaired plastic will be, too.
If, for some reason, either of these glues don't hold it, you'll have to track down the actual brand of your fan and look for docs online to see if they indicate exactly what kind of plastic it's made of so you can get a compatible adhesive. However, I really think that some model cement will do the job for you just fine.


what to cover blocked sticky paint on my deck

The paint didn't dry because it's complete junk.  Surprising to say that about Glidden.  Or, alternately, you insisted on painting wood while it was still wet.  Either wet from recent rain, or wet from initial manufacture - either was never dried out in the first place, or was treated.

Paint is only as good as the substrate (surface underneath).  Painting over a compromised surface is a lost cause, and the new paint will simply fail in the same manner as the failed paint.

All that paint has to go.  Good news, it's latex paint which is water-soluble and ridiculously easy to work with (as opposed to, say, aircraft LPU, the way you remove that from a fingernail is grow out the fingernail.)

Get yourself a decent scrub brush, e.g. the kind used to clean tubs. Keep the deck really wet and go to town.  If it's not even drying, it certainly won't survive an onslaught with solvent (that being water) and a stiff brush.    I would not use a wire-brush as that will dig into the wood.

If that doesn't work, or if that's actually oil paint, then you may need to go to a paint stripper.

In the future, don't use janky old paint you find in your garage.  To dispose of dodgy paint, leave the lid off until it all dries out and after a few months, huck it in the trash.  With oil paints (not nearly as likely to go bad), paint something you do not want, then throw it away.  If someone has a construction project nearby and a dumpster full of sheet refuse, go to town.

Walked-on surfaces are difficult.  DO NOT USE garage floor paint or any product called "Epoxy" where the sun's rays will touch it - UV light destroys epoxy unless you follow with an additional topcoat.  Sadly the only topcoat I've found that stands up stronger than epoxy (and protects it) is aircraft LPU.


Need to caulk between mount and exterior wall?

If the fence is plastic there should be no need to worry about water damaging any of it's pieces.
If the rail is removed and there's a chance of water getting through to the house it is a good idea to caulk the top and sides of the rail. Urethane caulk is durable and paintable, but very hard to tool (very sticky). 100% silicone is the most water proof, but not paintable. Latex will work get a 40 year-type for exterior use.
If the fence is attached to a section of the house that is constructed of wood or may allow water to enter the house, than yes caulk away.


Can you isolate the problem to any specific lights? Of course, obvious question, but if all the lights are off does it go away? Does the buzzing get louder as you turn more lights on?

It's possible that this is caused by older magnetic ballasts (which themselves typically buzz). You could try replacing just the ballasts with electronic ballasts, just be sure they are equivalent and pay attention to the difference in wiring. It may also mean that you need new bulbs, as you may not be able to find an electronic ballast with the same characteristics, but that's not maybe not terrible since T8 bulbs (1" diameter) are supposed to be better and more readily-available than T12 bulbs (1.5" diameter).


Can I split (1) 220 line with a 30 AMP breaker into (2) 110 15 AMP outlets using 14/2 wire?

There are a few different issues here:
220 vs. 110
Or more typically, 240 vs. 120, but it is really all the same, so don't worry about that.
220 can mean one of two somewhat different things:

hot/hot - i.e., only 220. If you have only 2 wires (plus ground) coming from the breaker to the destination, you can't get 110V from it, or at least not without additional hardware such as a transformer. However, you might be able to simply switch from a double-breaker (hot wire from each breaker) to using just one of the breakers and attaching the second wire to the neutral bar in the panel.

hot/hot/neutral - i.e., 110V & 220V in the same cable. If you have 3 wires (plus ground), then you are actually pretty well set. Then it becomes just a question of breaker size.

Breaker Size
You can't just "change" a circuit from 30A to 15A by using a lower-capacity receptacle and wire. You have to actually change the breaker, in this case from a double 30A breaker to a double 15A breaker. Though I would recommend switching to a double 20A breaker and using 12 AWG wire to be able to handle multiple loads better at minimal extra cost, while still maintaining full compatibility with devices designed to plug into a 15A circuit.
If you actually have 3 wires (hot/hot/neutral) and can change the breaker then you can install an MWBC. This shares the neutral between the two hots. But that can get a bit confusing. A better solution is a subpanel.
If you connect a small subpanel (it can be designed to handle a lot more than 30A as the existing 30A breaker will protect the existing wire), then you can easily support 4 15A 110V circuits instead of 2. The power comes in at 30A x 220V and the breakers in the panel go on one 110V or the other 110V 1/2 of the incoming circuit. You can even have a mix - e.g., a 220V circuit and multiple 110V circuits - in the subpanel. Each of the 110V circuits can be 20A using 12 AWG wire or 15A using 14 AWG wire.


What sort of store does one go to to buy stair parts?

The term you're looking for is millwork, which is a catch-all term for finished wood products, and includes the stair parts that you mentioned. From Wikipedia:

  Millwork building materials are historically any woodmill-produced building construction interior-finish or decorative components. Profiled and patterned millwork building components can usually be installed with minimal alteration. Today, millwork encompasses items that are made using alternatives to wood, such as synthetics, plastics, and wood-adhesive composites.

A lot of them will have the word "millwork" in their company names, and if not, should at least show up in a web search.

If they don't carry the exact pieces that you want, you may find some will be willing to mill items to your specification; this can be useful if you're trying to match hard-to-find trim.


Why is my two way dimmer switch not working?

The dimmer switch has some solid-state electronics in the path between the electrical mains and the light that it controls: definitely some form of transistor, and most likely one or more MOSFETs.  MOSFETs have very high resistance when they're off, well into the gigaohm range (or higher), and very low resistance when on, in the range of 1 ohm (or lower).  Other transistors types have a less extreme swing between on- and off-resistance.

The rest of the circuitry in the dimmer is designed to operate on AC mains voltages, so the small DC voltage that your multimeter drives through the dimmer isn't enough to turn on any of the transistors in the conduction path, so you're reading it as being open-circuit.


Have you checked the actual voltages feeding the fan motor ?

You should use a volt meter , measure both at the contactor(both in & out sides) and the motor. I would like to know L1 to Neutral , L2 to Neutral and L1 to L2 as there is a slight possibility your actual Circuit Breaker is "broken" on one leg where you might get a reduced connection and thus not enough current passing.
Have you cycled your Circuit Breaker Off/On in your service panel ?

Your breaker may have partial tripped, only half the breaker tripped and so it has partial connection (brown out voltage basically).

Also when you replaced the capacitor was it a dual fan/compressor
type ?
Or Start/Run type ?

What this looks like is that your fan has a start capacitor and that gets it going but your run capacitor is not working.

Please post your Model number, I know it is a carrier - inside the panel there should also be a wiring diagram - post a good picture of that if you will.


I'm going to risk posting my comment as an answer.  If the original outlet was truly a 240 volt outlet (probably a cable of 2 wire and a ground) and you didn't change the wiring in the main panel by moving the white wire (of the circuit) to the neutral bussbar making it a 120 volt circuit, your still going to get 240 v on your new outlet.   The outlet has no way of changing 240 to 120, that's the role of the breaker panel connections. That assumes, Ed's comments about a MWBC dont' apply Hope this helps.


Spray foam insulation against metal roofing

Questions:

Q1: Is this a reasonable/acceptable plan? Yes & no...more below.

Meets code? You'll need to run all of this by your local/city inspectors/building code enforcement folks to get the answer.

Energy efficient? Roofing-wise, I believe it is. Several inches of foam will be quite efficient--but that may be undone by what your other choices are for walls/floor and the open ceiling 'choice'.

Q2: Does this mean the insulation needs to be replaced if we ever need to re-roof? YES.
In other words, if we ever remove the metal, does the insulation come with it? YES.
Is it possible to re-roof over the metal without removing it? Possible I guess, but I have never seen this done in my locale. It could be problematic and costly.

Q3: Do we need to worry about issues with moisture/rot (e.g., is the strapping going to rot if moisture gets around a screw after the metal has expanded/contracted thousands of times)?
YES..for the exact reason you  mention.Those gaskets do wear out and relatively quickly.

Q4: Are there reasonable alternatives that we should consider? One thing for sure I would do differently--to mitigate future loss of the insulation investment--use plywood decking over the strapping onto which the metal can be fastened. OR you might consider using a standing seam metal roof with no exposed fasteners. This would be very costly, but would mitigate some of the concerns you mention (and would look GREAT). I assume your use of 'reasonable' is mostly from an economic point of view.  SS metal is most likely a bridge too far, but plywood decking is not in my opinion-- about $2200 material to protect probably $6-12K in insulation investment (depending on actual thickness and type). Exterior walls material and insulation choice will also determine the overall energy efficiency of the building. Personally, if I could not afford SS metal, I would use 3/4" plywood roof sheathing--not OSB. I hate OSB because of sagging potential and it rarely ever snows in my locale. I am certain that is a big concern in your neck of the woods. You should ask your insulation contractor about the install temperatures/etc. You may have to wait for spring or a very sunny stretch this winter. Good luck!


What are the pros and cons of frameless and faceframe cabinet designs?

The particle board cabinets are cheap. If you ever have a leak in the sink they swell up and start falling apart in a very short time. The cabinets that are made out of particleboard usually do have the hinges screwed into the face when the particle board breaks there is no way to really fix it to look good (without repainting /or a new veneer- Cut the damaged area out put in new wood and a reinforcement on the back side).
The cheap particle board cabinets will look nice for a while but not last like plywood. Several weeks ago I was in a house that I helped remodel over 35 years ago with my father. These are solid plywood with birch or oak veneer, My aunt said they did have to replace the hinges (self closer) as they had worn out. They also sanded and added a new coat of varnish. the cabinets look great other than being "style dated". I know over the years I have removed quite a few bathrooms and kitchen cabinets that had gotten wet that were made out of particle board. There have been a few that the owners just wanted all new looks that were plywood (many of these I used in my shop & friends garages). If durability is a concern don't even think of particle board. if you have Pre-teens don't even think of particle board. If you are an older couple (no kids at home) and the budget is more of a concern Particle board may be ok. This is my opinion others may disagree but I rarely see 20+ year old bathroom cabinets out of particle board and many times the "sink area" in kitchens has been damaged in much less time.


First answer is that yes they will probably level out.

But whether this recurs depends on the source of the sludge.  Simply blowing out the lines once probably will not solve the original problem.

If you can figure out the source of the sludge there may be remedies like settlement filters (like used on swimming pools).

You might also consider a larger size tubing.

Without more information it is difficult to give you a precise answer.

Good luck!


Dual Purpose breaker (Eaton type BR Combination AFCI/GFCI) trips when starting blender or vacuum

I believe your dual function breakers (GFCI and AFCI protection) are thinking you have an arc fault, not a ground fault or excessive current.  A "Combination Breaker" is one that provides series and parallel arc fault protection and not GFCI protection. Some people confuse "Combination" with GFCI and AFCI, but those are properly called "Dual Function", as you did.

Is the bathroom outlet AFCI protected?  If not, you just ruled out over-current (inrush) and ground fault causing the trip, meaning the other breakers are thinking there is an arc fault.

Motors that have brushes are common causes of what you are experiencing. Unfortunately all this great new "protection" is interfering with day to day operation.


How to cut a concrete block without expensive tools?

A mason's chisel is the traditional hand-tool approach.
You might be able to find a "grit-edge" (tungsten carbide abrasive) blade for your sabre saw. You might get away with a tungsten carbide toothed blade for it, but that's more prone to get ruined than the grit-edge version.


Is this a properly done aggregate courtyard

I think they totally messed it up if the plan was to match that first picture. I've watch contractors install Chattahoochee patios, which are similar and they have to add the stone right after pouring and smoothing the slab. They might be able to do an acid wash to remove some of the concrete and give you what you paid for.


What tools to cut square post hole in composite decking board?

What are the common methods for this type of job?

The one you described, plus:


You could consider putting in french doors between the rooms. This would help with keeping more of the heat in where you want it and still allow light to enter.


Do I need special tools to run speaker wire vertically from about light switch heigh to the floor? No fireblocks.

There's probably no reason that it won't work. Just feed the wire in and let gravity do its thing. Use a thin wire to capture the cable at the bottom hole.

A wire puller is nothing more than a stiff wire itself, with a hook or eye at the end. I've pulled wires many times using a length of copper building wire or whatever I have on hand.


Is lateral offset in 3.25x10 inch duct allowed?

If I were doing that job, I would contact an HYAC company or if you can find one, a duct fabricator, and have them make what you need. Their offset would be smooth and without the flaws as compared to something you could make in your basement.
Another possibility would be to purchase a piece of 3 1/4" X 14"(this duct comes in 10", 12", and 14" widths) and use it in between the 2-10" ducts to produce the offset. It won't be a clean and pretty transition but it can be done. As far as any "code" there may be would be determined by where you live.


Folding garden chair assembly...putting a stud in the wood

The stud gets screwed into the wood piece by using a tool that grips onto the smooth cylindrical part of the stud. That could be any of the following types of tools:

(Pictures from Irwin Tools web site. Other brands of similar tools available too).

In some cases the stud will be relatively soft steel and the tool could mar the smooth surface of the stud. In this case you can try wrapping a strip of leather around the stud and then use the tool to grip the stud through the leather. A strip of rubber can also be used but I have found the strip of leather to work better for this. The right most type of tool shown above can be adjusted so that it can firmly clamp onto the stud and then be used to turn the stud into the wood piece. The other two will gain grip while you hold the handles together.


Is there a rule about minimum rise of a vent pipe before it can run horizontal?

Yes.  The vent can't run horizontal until you've reached the overflow height of the attached fixtures.   The idea is you don't want the water to backup into a horizontal section of venting and deposit debris in the event that the waste pipe clogs.  If the waste pipe clogs then the fixture should overflow before water runs into a horizontal section of vent pipe.


Does new panel needs to be up to new code?

I finally called the city and talked to an inspector. My city, Diamond Bar (California) said that I did not need to have AFCIs. The GFCIs were already in the outlets in the right locations so a new panel with regular breakers was ok.


How should I properly ground a separate building?

Congratulations, you've created an open (floating) neutral.

  "I omitted the neutral and ground from the main panel... I hammered a new ground rod and bonded the ground and neutral at the new building sub panel, which I figured would give me the same setup as a main panel..."

This is partially incorrect. The main panel should be supplied from the utility with two ungrounded (hot) conductors, and one grounded (neutral) conductor.  You'll then have an on-site grounding electrode (ground rod, etc.), which the equipment grounding conductor and grounded (neutral) conductors will be bonded to.

To feed your subpanel you'll have to provide at least two ungrounded (hot) conductors, and a grounded (neutral) conductor from the main panel.  Since this is a separate building, you are correct that a separate grounding electrode is required. However, you'll want to make sure it is an adequate ground before using it.  It's not likely you'll have the equipment to do this, so you'll probably have to call somebody in to verify a good ground.

If there are no other bonded metallic paths between the buildings (water pipe, gas pipe, coaxial cable, etc.) then you're allowed to simply run two ungrounded (hot) conductors and one grounded (neutral) conductor.  In this situation, the grounded (neutral) conductor should be bonded to the grounding electrode at the subpanel.

If there are other bonded metallic paths between the buildings then you should run two ungrounded (hot), one grounded (neutral), and one grounding conductor. In this case, the grounded (neutral) conductor will not be bonded to the grounding electrode at the subpanel.

See: National Electrical Code 2011 250.32(B)(1)


Will drywall mud adhere to semi-gloss paint?

I have roughed up the surface with red scotch brite pad or by sanding (scotch brite doesn’t make as big a mess).
Then wipe with a damp rag to remove the loose particles after that the mud will stick I have done this hundreds if not thousands of times on my own home and remodels, rewires where I had to patch holes used to drill and pull wire. + Jimmie fix it method may be a better way but takes time and I have not had failures.


Extending circuit from dead-end 3-way switch

Wow.  You actually have /4.

The answer is it can work, but you may need to flip it.   That is to say, right now, the black wire may be switched-hot going to the lamp, so the wires are

  switched-hot traveler traveler neutral.

If so, you will need to rearrange other parts of the circuit so the other 3-way is the one with switched-hot and the wires that come here are

  always-hot traveler traveler neutral.

Then you can simply tap always-hot and neutral.

Tell whoever fit the /4, well done.   Normally this question answers with a "nope, unless you like smart switches".


My dryer heating element broke in two: Can I just wrap the ends together?

Sorry to be the Nay Sayer here, but trying to repair a 240VAC heating coil element is just plain dangerous. You mentioned using aluminum wire, WRONG! That wire will melt in a heartbeat as soon as you turn it on. The heating element is probably made of tungsten or other hardened heat producing metals and trying to use copper or aluminum is no substitute.

Don't risk burning up other parts of your dryer or even your entire house. Order the correct part or go pick one up at a local appliance repair shop and do the job properly and safely.


Can I hook up a smart thermostat to a "high efficiency gas forced air heater"? Are there any caveats?

It will be perfectly fine. The internal control and safeties of the heater will prevent most bad™ things from happening.
A smart thermostat will come preprogrammed with reasonable defaults for hysteresis and min turn on.
One additional thing you should consider adding is a CO detector, which will alert in case the unit starts emitting the toxic odorless and colorless gas into your living space.


Should I use acoustical insulation or acoustical drywall for interior walls?

If you're only going with one or the other, my personal opinion would be to go with accoustical drywall and seal the perimiter with accoustical caulk.  Insulation goes between the studs, so you could still have vibrations traveling through the studs themselves and the top and bottom of the wall's frame.  If you use sound-deadening drywall like QuietRock or use a double layer of regular drywall with Green Glue in the middle, you can avoid that flanking much easier since you're covering the entire area of the wall's frame.  Of course, worst-case sound situations could still allow sound to flank through the floor or ceiling, under or over the frame, and through the floor or ceiling of the neighboring room, but I'd think that would be an extreme case.


Check for any "attractive nuisance" laws as well. Even if not specifically present, you could face legal liability if a kid came into your yard, climbed the fence into the ravine, and got hurt. If that happened, having the opposing side able to state that you replaced the existing fence with a shorter one isn't going to look good.

Not a lawyer, but for fencing surrounding something potentially deadly like a ravine, I'd suggest fencing that's tall and not very climbable. Wrought iron or similar could work to create a impassible barrier while not disrupting sight lines.

EDIT: looks like this law probably won't apply, because attractive nuisances have to be artificial in nature. That being said, reducing the chance for a neighbor's kid to die horribly in your yard could be motivation enough.


Is that normal? Yes.
Common? Yes. You'll find plumbing in a similar state in probably hundreds of thousands of homes in the united states.
It is a problem waiting to happen? Yes.
Is it dirty? No.
That bad boy right there is good and corroded. A good candidate for proactive replacement. In the future, whether you wait for a leak (which could be a blow out or could be a pinhead) or you go ahead with replacing now, find a valve with solid brass connections to play nice with the copper. whenever you go to replace, give that adjacent copper a good look over to see if any of it looks like you need to cut it back and replace with new.


Wiring 2-way connected switch in 2-gang configuration

The black coming in to the double loaded screw is the always hot. It is then jumpered over to the other switch. Each then has a switched how leaving to the lights.

you can make this proper by using another short black wire and wirenutting it along with the existing jumper wire and the always hot. Then every screw in the switch will have exactly 1 wire connecting it as is proper.

As for the neutral you can add a white wire to the wirenut to jump it over to the smart switch (though you may need to get a larger size nut).


First, Take a probe type thermometer and check the temperature drop across the cooling coil. The temperature drop should be 15-20 degrees F., and preferably closer to the 15 degree temp. Next, check to see how many return registers are located in the basement. They should be located near the floor. Remember that multi-story houses like yours all have similar problems since cold air is heavier than warm air and tends to fall to the lowest areas. Look to see if every room has it's own supply pipe and not have a common pipe supplying a lower and a higher room. Count the number of supply and return registers on each floor. Every room should have at least one of each unless this is a newer house, then any thing is possible. The returns for the top floor should have returns located near the ceiling to take the hot air off the ceiling. Measure the sizes of the supply and return ducts include the duct that drops down to the furnace. Also list the model and serial number of the furnace or air handler and the size of your house and it's location, type of windows etc. The more info provided the better. (There are a lot of smart guys that monitor this site that can provide possible solutions if given enough information). Hope this helps


How can I prevent these steel poles from rusting?

Oil-based enamels "key" well to metal (better than latex) and are the go-to for protecting metal from oxidation. You will first need to remove all oxidation using some wet-dry sandpaper (or in extreme cases an angle grinder). There are products that will turn rust into primer; these can SOMETIMES help but really they're usually just a "quick fix", and in all cases you'll want something more than the layer these will give you.

As far as a more permanent fix, consider replacing these steel poles with galvanized metal. The galvanizing basically forms a protective layer of oxidation that is physically tough, and shields the metal from further destructive oxidation. Anything you'd use as a structural member exposed to the elements should have SOME form of protective coating already on it (or be made of an alloy that resists oxidation; stainless steel however is uncommon for major structural members).

In an oceanside climate, you can protect exposed metal by building a weather-tight box around the exposed part. This will prevent rain and saltwater mist from contacting the metal directly. You still will want to put a protective finish on the metal itself as a final barrier.


You may have tried this already but your first step is to use a circuit tester to make sure you have power coming to the white and black wires.

If not, your next step is to walk backwards from the light to troubleshoot. If you made the correct connections at the light then go to the switch and verify that the switch is indeed wired to the line the light is on assuming you know the correct switch to that pendant.

Turn off the breaker to that circuit and unscrew the cover, you may have to also unscrew the switch to move it out of the way in order to see if the pendent wire is connected or not.

Chances are that the electrician has the wire in place but not actually wired to the switch. If it is wired to the switch. The next step would be to check the electrical panel to see if the breaker for this circuit is tripped and/or wired.

If all checks out then you can try to trace the circuit and hope to find the fault.


Are there such things that allow quick changing which circuit powers outlets/lights

You're over-thinking this. Get a replacement plug from the hardware store. Disconnect the "downstream" lights and put the plug on to that wire. Then use an extension cord.


Caulk would be my least preferred. (One can't sand it.) Joint compound is probably okay if you're willing to do a few coats (it'll shrink). Best would be bondo -- the car body filler. (Note that you can catch bondo at a point in its curing cycle when it's firm but pliable and easily cut flush with a sharp chisel/blade. Practice makes perfect on that one.) Texture of any filling you use versus the texture of the billy will be an issue, so you might consider rollering paint on to get an orange peel effect. I'm pretty sure Billy shelves are covered in melamine, so would strongly suggest a melamine primer. (It bonds better than normal primer.)


@CactusCake has the right idea but you don't have to go to the bathroom. Per the NEC all dwellings built in the US have to have at least 2 small appliance circuits in the Kitchen/Dining/Breakfast Nook areas and they will all be GFCI protected in the kitchen. So try the other circuit and see if you get a trip.

I will say that some GFCI's do go bad, usually due to over tripping. The bad news is that it is usually not the case.

Good luck and stay safe.


This is how a typical receptacle/switch combo is wired.

A combination GFCI/switch, is going to have a different terminal layout.  First, the switch terminals are no longer on the device. Instead they're a couple wires shooting out of the device.

Next you'll notice a set of terminals labeled LINE, with a brass terminal on one side, and a silver on the other.  There will be another set of brass/silver terminals, but these will be labeled LOAD (these are typically covered by a sticker).

When wiring the GFCI/switch combo, it will look something like this.

The challenge you'll face, is determining which black wire is "hot", and which is "switched".


How do I cut an access panel in an inside wall?

Most access panels have a lip that covers a good half inch around the perimeter of the opening, so you don't have to make the hole perfect. Pick up your desired panel from the store so you have a reference. It should include a door and a separate part for mounting on the wall:

Start by cutting your hole slightly smaller with a drywall keyhole saw.

Check for any obstructions with this hole and adjust the position accordingly to make your final hole. Use the panel on the wall as a template to mark out the position of the final hole, and then cut that out with either the same saw, a sharp utility knife, and/or a rasp:


How can I install a ceiling fan with an extension kit that doesn't have a ground wire?

Code doesn't require grounding for the fan because you're not really installing permanently in the structure, you're using it as a removable appliance.

If you want to ground it anyway, buy high quality aesthetically pleasing braided copper grounding wire, and weave it through the chain along with the original cable.

Connect it normally at the fan box, and at the outlet, either cut the plug off and add a replacement plug, or terminate the ground wire with a spade connector and use the outlet's cover plate screw to secure it in place.

You could improve the situation by replacing the outlet with GFCI or using an inline GFCI protector.  Both overkill if you ask me.


Does the window open? Or is it a fixed pane? If it opens (or if you can find one the same size that opens) you could install a window exhaust fan like this one that mounts in the window frame. That way you don't have to mess with cutting a hole in the glass.

Another option would bet to place a dehumidifier in the bathroom.


The installation manual for HardieBacker suggests to embed it in thin-set and it should be installed over plywood.

Thus I would suggest removing the current wood planks flooring, install a 3/4" outdoor grade plywood, thinset and then your HardieBacker (screwed down).

All of this is to prevent as much movement in your substrate and avoid cracks in your tiles and in your grout.

Here is the link to the installation guide: http://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/installation/hardiebacker-us-en.pdf


What could cause lights to come on full strength then dim?

I determined that my power source was no good. I don't know exactly what is going on, but it seems to be coming from a switched outlet system in another part of the house.

Easiest solution, tie up the old power source and find a different one that is cleaner. I found another circuit nearby that was barely used and is actually more spatially related to where these lights were being installed. Other than that the wiring was correct and works great.


How do I remove this shower handle so I can adjust the water temp?

Your tub/shower valve is definitely a Delta unit. On their older valves with the "Scald Guard" feature that set screw is the only thing that holds the handle on. As suggested in the comments, spraying with penetrating oil and tapping around the edge of the knob will usually break it loose such that you can pull it off. It is not uncommon (or unwise)for plumbers to use a handle puller made exactly for this task to increase the chances of saving the knob/handle:

These are $12 - $20, maybe less for a cheaply made version. Readily available at the plumbing shop, which you should become familiar with for when the knob breaks during removal...
The temp control limit stop should be a plastic widget with teeth on the underside, just behind the knob, which limits the CCW knob travel. You should be able to pull it away and rotate it CW to give the knob more CCW travel toward the hot inlet port.


The gas home heater turns off after some time and wont turn on again unless I lower the thermostat and raise it back up

What I would try since it is a single stage gas and not sure if it may be a Tri state relay in the thermostat. Pull the thermostat  and connect the wires together and let the furnace / home get to temp so let it run for at least a normal time or longer. Then separate the 2 wires and wait at least 20 minutes. Reconnect the wires and if the heater starts properly it is the thermostat, even though the battery indicator states ok try new. The set point may be off because of a span or dead-band  setting.  I scanned the users manual and did not see a dead-band and this is unusual for a system that can heat and cool.
If things work just connecting the wires removing and connecting and the battery doesn't fix it I would look for a master reset there may be a programmed hold that is causing the issue.


How do I know if my gfci is self-testing?

All the gfci I have come across have a button labelled “push to test”.
This puts a “fault” across the output and if it fails to react then the unit needs to be replaced.
The proper testing machine will measure the response time and report if it is still within the acceptable range.
There may be some that don’t have test buttons but I have not seen any.
Edit: Just for those who confuse the reset button with the "push to test" button here is an image showing one with both... I assume that that clears up the issue:


Is this an acceptable way to support an undermount sink?

I have to say that those scrap pieces of wood look like rather shabby workmanship to me. I would definitely have the installers come back out and clean up that mess.

If you have any chance to hold up any due payments you should do so until this is corrected.

I cannot say whether this is an overall acceptable way to support the sink but if it is expected that some support piece is to be attached to the cabinet there are surely neater ways to achieve this than a couple of splitting 1x2's stuck in there with drywall screws.


What kind of wall material should be used in wet areas in a bathroom?

Greenboard (or any paper faced drywall) is an unacceptable substrate for any wet application (shower or tub stalls).  Regardless of tub stall surface (tile, fiberglass, etc) you will get some moisture penetration through the shower liner and this will eventually create bigger problems.

You need to install Hardibacker or Durock (or any cementitious board) as the substrate for your tub/shower stall.  Matter of fact, in many municipalities it is required by building code.  It only needs to be installed in the area of the tub/shower, though no need to extend further out.

The rest of the bathroom can be done in greenboard though (and that isn't a bad idea).


What tool should be used to mud the inside corners of a diagonal ceiling?

I've had decent luck not taping inside corners at all. Instead I've use a sanded caulk. The key is to have a nice sharp edge to work with where the two pieces of sheetrock meet.

But if you want to mud and tape, there are tools for that:

They come in various angles, but most can adjust the angle merely by angling the handle yourself.


Cracked rafter fix and loose truss plates

The split top cord should be repaired. Lay a 6 or 8 ft long 2x4 or 2x6 across 3 or 4 of the bottom cords, then use a length of 2x4 to push up to close the  split. When it is aligned properly, nail it in place with numerous nails that are the type that do not causing splitting.  Then sister on 3 or 4 ft (or more) of 2x4 on one side of the repaired section. If protruding roofing nails prevent sistering on either side, then you might have to use a 2x3 on the side and on the bottom edge.

(You might squirt wood glue into the crack before pressing the crack closed.)


I have seen this a bunch , heavy irrigation is part of the problem but don’t stop. My well guy a very old friend has always told me if it is dirty pump it hard, wait for a few hours and pump it hard again. When you pump hard yes you stress the well but if you never pump it hard it will silt up and be a bigger problem. A string filter is his preferred method to filter the sand. You may have to change these every month or so but the few dollars spent on filters will save your water heater and every valve in your house. Keep the sand out of the house and I put filters prior to the water tank in most cases, some require the filter after? A valve prior to the filter is all that is needed in most cases, a valve after can even be better, I can change my filter in less than 1 minute. I turn 2 valves 1 prior and after the filter then spin the housing off, dump the old filter and water then put a new filter in and spin it back on, open both valves and I am done from start to finish in 1 minute a month on a 12” string filter in a shallow well (less than 100’ total depth). In a river bed that has a lot of fine sand & silt.
Note I have had a jet pump in the past but switched to a submersible a short while back and don’t notice much of a difference in needed filter changes but it has been less than a year since I made the change but I started using the new pump 3x the old one as submersible pumps are much cheaper to run than jets.


If I was going to do a high-risk drill job like this (and I would try it before I'd pay for a new tank), here's what I'd do:

Pad the tank with towels, foam, or whatever you have on hand to dampen vibration. That's what will shatter the porcelain. Use some squeeze clamps or stuff the tank full and snug to apply pressure against the tank wall.
Use a carbide masonry drill bit with a high-rate hammerdrill. I mean what you find in a cordless drill, and not a dedicated industrial hammerdrill. The smaller and faster the hammer action, the less likely you are to shatter the tank. Start with a small bit and work up: Maybe 3/16" initially, and 1/6" increments.
Use a sharp hardened punch to chip the surface where you intend to drill. Even a hammerdrill will walk away once you apply pressure. That will be frustrating and damaging to nearby objects.
Spin fast, press slow. Use your drill's highest speed, but press very lightly. The smaller the bites, the better.  The outward pressure of the bit when enlarging a hole is a concern, so go even easier after the first hole.
Watch for heat. I don't expect a lot of heat with this method, but if it gets very hot you'll possibly scorch the finish. You could also melt the bit or wreck its temper.
Back off even more as you get through to the inner face of the tank wall. If you're pressing too hard you'll blow out the back side. Brace your hands and make sure the drill doesn't plunge through after penetration.

More information from a previous question

That's all I got. I'm not an expert with ultra-hard materials, but I've done my share of experimenting with tile, countertops, etc. Good luck.


Can I replace a single breaker with a double in the space above where broken tab is

Here is a few things to consider. First a QO double pole breaker usually has only one connection point to the tabs. So make sure it's on the correct side.

Second, and I know this might be nitpicking but NEC Article 110.12(B) Integrity of Electrical Equipment and Connections states there shall be no damaged parts that may adversely affect the safe operation or mechanical strength of the equipment such as parts that are broken; bent; cut; or deteriorated by corrosion, chemical action, or overheating.

So the question is: Does that fit this situation? Which I cannot answer because I am not there. What I will tell you that is I if I were still running a service company, I would have a liability to my customer and my state license. I would replace it.

I am not sure of the age of the panel but you might be able to find a comparable box where the guts match and just replace the guts rather than the whole panel.

Whatever you decide use good judgement and be safe.


How to fit 4" rigid aluminum duct vent in between walls when there is an angle brace?

I wouldn't build it that way in the first place. Hiding a dryer duct within a wall and venting it through the roof (I'm guessing here, but that's what it looks like to me) is just begging for nobody to clean it until it eventually catches fire and burns the house down.

I recently re-did my utility room and discovered an in-wall rigid steel duct just like the one in your picture which vented through the roof. Clearly nobody ever cleaned it due to the annoyance of having to get up on the roof, and as a result it was entirely blocked by lint and dust, with a bunch of creepy-crawlies living in it due to disuse and abundant organic material during an unoccupied period. Not only that, but a section of the ducting had gotten open and was depositing moist air right into the wall cavity, which eventually invited termites into that wall:

Do the world a favor and don't hide your dryer ductwork inside a framed wall and vent it through the roof!


Do I need a hydraulic jack to do main beam jacking?

The hydraulic jack is an excellent way to be sure you have enough leverage, but more importantly, a high degree of control.  Jackscrews are not as good at lifting by rotating the leadscrew due to high friction, which is overcome with a cheater bar so there is not as much feel developed.  The jackscrew is excellent for holding a load securely, whereas a hydraulic jack might slide if the actuator is not secure.

If you are worried about cost, you can probably get by with a much smaller jack, like 5 or 10 ton.  Harbor Freight has a 20 ton jack for $100.  My local tool rental has them for $8 per day.


How to make cold lay asphalt less porous?

I would use a sealer and sand, first I would pour the sealer on just enough to almost fill the area, then with clean dry sand sprinkle it on top and work it in so it looks black, when it drys it will be much smother and will not hold water like the porous surface will and the sand provides a binder and helps to reduce the “slick” or slippery texture. I have done this with hot tar and latex sealing blends.


Replace the battery. Depending on who's responsibility maintaining the battery is, that's either you get a new battery or you call Verizon and have them replace it (which will be the easy way if it's their responsibility, and the expensive way if it's yours.)

If the system is looking for a good battery, neither a dying/dead one nor no battery at all is going to make it happy.


Why is the caulk cracking and the toilet rocking?

You don't have a caulking problem, you have a structural one. The walls and floor shouldn't be moving so much that caulk cracks. And caulk isn't an adhesive for holding up the soap dish or towel bar. Finally, a rocking toilet indicates the floor either wasn't properly leveled or that it's not structurally sound. If these are the issues you are noticing, then you can be sure that there are a lot more serious problems you aren't seeing.

You don't want that contractor back in your house to fix these problems. You want to sue them for gross negligence and to get someone that knows what they are doing to come in and fix it. To fix it right likely requires gutting your bathroom all over again and starting over from scratch.


Are pre-drilled holes in pvc french drain pipe enough holes?

The holes in the pipe are enough; drilling more would weaken the pipe. The important thing with French drains is to have a good bed of gravel around the pipe for several inches. I like using a sock on my pipes to prevent the fine gravel from falling into the holes. No need to drill more holes the ones that are there are more than enough.


Does a (non-splitting) cable splitter degrade the signal?

I believe it is splitting the signal, each output will have a specific loss associated. Some splitters will unevenly split the signal (commonly called a tap), which is handy to give a better signal to a longer run or to the cable modem. You can get a straight through connector at any HI store. That said, even these will have some loss of signal, just no where near as much as from a splitter.

Note: Common Insertion Loss per output leg on passive splitters:

2-way - 3dB
3-way - 4.8dB
4-way - 6dB

3dB is 1/2 the signal strength, basically on a two way splitter, full power goes in, 1/2 comes out each leg as long as there is termination impedance on all (cable or terminator cap) ports.


What is the weird wiring on these old light switches?

Without putting a meter on it. Yellow wire is a jumper to share power. The feed into the switch looks like one of the green wires but I cannot tell u which one is coming in and which one would be going out. Each of the reds look like your switched legs that are going to two separate lighting situations.


When you change the filter next, have a look at the internal paths for the inlet and outlet - they are designed to control the flow through the filter, normally flow is outside to middle.


Question About Fluorescent Ballast Substitution

Many ballast can be connected to 1 or 2 lamps some different lengths. The wiring may be different than your original (colors) look at the picture on the front of the ballast if it only shows connections for 2 lamps it probably will not work with just 1 lamp. This ballast should work found on line 13$.  Fulham Fluorescent Electronic Ballast 120V for for (1-2) F32T8 (2) F25T8, F32T8, F25T12, F30T12, F3... by Fulham


Bathroom exhaust fan and light switch separation

It looks like you have a switch leg but they should have used x3 with ground cable. The black mark on the white cable I would guess is your hot the black is the switched hot that is working. I normally would have the 2nd switch on the red wire with the 14-3 or 12-3 wire from the fixture. with the white marked black always hot jumped to both switches With the extra cable this may violate code depending on how it is wired. We would need a photo of the wiring connections at the fixture or box where this is fed from. If the 2nd cable is connected as a switch leg white always hot then the black to the fan  it would be ok. On an older home that did not require a neutral in the box.


Aluminum shower stalls like that often have a pair of channels that mount to the wall, then the panels slip into them. A small screw or other retainer holds them in place. Look for some way to release the panels. You may need to cut a bead of caulk.

The base is probably nailed or screwed through the top flange. You'll see it when you peel the wall panels off the drywall behind it. You'll also need to cut caulk against the floor and elsewhere for the base.


I know exactly that model and it's a cheapie!   Yes, that middle panel pops off easily, just get into the slot where the middle panel touches the edges and start prying.   It will pop right out.

This type doesn't have a ballast proper, just some discrete components placed in the end caps and the gutter you're about to expose.  Very hokey.  I do not believe it would play well with a plug-n-play LED tube.

You can of course gut that stuff and rewire it for direct wire LED tubes.  I recommend the kind of direct-wire that takes hot and neutral on opposite ends.   Those endcaps with the integral tombstones are pretty cheap, and I would not want to have 120V between the adjacent pins.


What are some tips for installing a small shed?

Any place that sells pre-built sheds in your area would likely have advice on site preparation for delivery.

I don't know what the soil's like in your area, but if you're going to hit bedrock before 42", it'd likely be easier to put in a slab;  If you're likely to hit lots of tree-roots, the slab might be a better choice (so you don't kill a tree, and have it fall on your new shed)  For most other times, I'd personally go with footings, but I live in an area that's clay and easy to dig.  (other than tree roots).

Some pre-built sheds are made to sit on a slab, as they have no floor; this can make it easier to get things in/out of the shed, as you don't have the step-up.

... also, rather than buying from Home Depot or similar, look to see if there are Amish or Menonite areas near you -- they often have businesses that do this sort of pre-built structure construction.  It might be a little more expensive, but you can get them customized to a specific size, material, etc ... it's what I'd do if I wasn't going to build it myself.


It looks like there is a layer of foam between the siding and the house this was quite common.
I would not seal below the siding, this could trap moisture and since there is a layer of foam attached to the sheeting there really shouldn’t be any air movement and this is outside the structure, the stud bays them selves are another air space beyond that.

I might consider adding some insulation in the air chase and use spray foam to seal it in place , remember whatever you add for insulation will limit your flow but I can’t believe you need 2 bays for flow and if one is a supply and one is a return,,, well I hope their is some kind of duct work we cannot see to rout them away from each other.
The reason I would not seal the bottom is it can trap moisture, most of the siding I installed had weep holes as it did condense moisture into water at times.


Is it safe to use screws in subfloor-to-joist connection to eliminate floor squeak

Yes, that is perfectly fine and recommended.  Instead of Phillips-head stainless steel screws, I would actually recommend Deckmate decking screws that have torx heads (six-pronged star) so the driver bit has more grip. I have very bad experience with stripping Phillips heads.


Finished basement outlets, GFCI or AFCI?

If it's officially considered "habitable space", then it's a finished basement and GFCI is not required.

AFCI protection is required.  An AFCI breaker, is probably the cheapest and easiest way to provide the protection.


NEMA 14-50 outlet installation - uninsulated ground ok to use?

Grounding
Actually, the ground wire needs to go to the metal box first.
The 14-50 receptacle will pick up its ground via hard-flush bare-metal face contact between the yoke of the receptacle and the metal box.
Just make sure the surfaces are clean of paint or rust, and any of those little square "screw keepers" are removed.
You can hardwire a ground from the 14-30 recep to a pigtail coming up from the metal box if you really want to, but it's unnecessary.
Aluminum (don't panic)
Oh, one other thing.  That ground wire may be tinned copper wire, but it might also be aluminum.  There's nothing wrong with aluminum at these large sizes, but you do need to use special splice techniques that are safe for it.  Look closely at the writing on the other wires.  If they say "Copper" or "Cu" that settles it.  If it says "Aluminum" or "AL" that also settles it.   If you can't find any such markings, look end-on to the wires - you'll see copper in the middle of the strands if it's tinned copper.  If not, it's aluminum.
If it is aluminum, look at your NEMA 14-50 recep labeling and instructions. Is it UL-Listed for aluminum?  Then the wires can attach directly.  If not, search for another 14-50 recep, or alternately, pigtail to some #8 copper.  The best splice I know of for #6Al to #8Cu is the "MAC Block Connector". They're tough to search for thanks to Apple, but they're similar to large Alumiconns or small Polaris. Get your torques right and make use of  the goop provided in the holes.


How do I fix these gaps where the socket plates don't cover?

The best approach is to fix the plaster and paint. Some other ideas:

Install oversize device plates. Since you have nice stainless-steel plates now, this will be more expensive, but it would be quick and easy.
You may be able to find or make backing plates that fit around the devices, behind the existing plates, and extend outward a small distance.
As a last resort, fill with spackle or painter's caulk, then touch up the paint.


Upright Freezer won’t come back on once it shuts off

The door switch probably has a problem. That switch not only controls the light, it is also used to turn off the fans and compressor if the door is open. If you banged it and it worked again, there is a wire or connection to it that is loose, or the contacts of the switch have corroded.


Water heater not filled with water before being turned onto hot setting

Inside of a gas water heater there is a plate on the bottom and a flue tube for the flames / hot gasses to run up and heat the water. By having the flame on with no water, all that happened was that the plate and flue tube get very hot, likely red hot. It's highly unlikely they were damaged permanently though, there are safety cutoffs that would have turned off the gas way before that happens.

As to the T-P valve, when you finally turned on the hot water, it likely immediately flashed into steam. A hot water heater tank is NOT a steam vessel, hence the T-P valve. the T-P valve is SUPPOSED to open and vent the steam, so it was actually doing exactly what it was designed for. Once it had cooled down it would have probably re-sealed, but changing it out is not a problem. It's doubtful that Sears would pay for it without having first given it a chance to cool and seal though.

Dents on the outside of a hot water heater would be strictly cosmetic. The dent you can see is just on the "skin" of sheet metal that is covering the insulation inside, between the actual tank and that cosmetic skin. I usually buy the dented ones to get the discount.

Don't call that plumber again though, that was a bonehead move on his part...


Means of adjusting fan speed on Bryant gas furnace

When you look at the motor there are 7 wires. 2 brown for the capacitor, a White common wire, Black for high, orange for medium high, blue for medium low and red for low. It comes from the factory with the black plugged into cool and the orange plugged into heat. Blue and red are hooked to M1 and M2 which are just place holders. To reduce speed swap the orange wire with either the blue or red wires on the circuit board. I have to warn you however that low air flow can damage the furnace and actually be less efficient. You should take the temperature at the outlet of the furnace and at the inlet of the furnace. Subtract the two, this will give you your split. Compare that to the required split on the nameplate of the furnace. If it is too high you need more air. I have seen cases where the furnace is too large for the ducts and was overheating even on high speed.


That looks to be a porcelain tub painted over with an epoxy paint that was not done correctly.  An epoxy paint over porcelain requires proper preparation of the surface.  This does not appear to have sanding done prior to application.  So best recommendation on a low budget is to buff with a tiger disc all the existing epoxy.  Then clean extensively to remove soap scum and contaminants on the porcelain surface.  Then call a qualified porcelain re-finisher to do a professional job.  If this is a fiberglass tub,  do the same as above and call a fiberglass re-finisher to do it correctly.  Or replace the tub.  Mold and rust are not something you want in your home or in your body...


radiator starts banging seconds after turning on the valve

That's thermal expansion of the pipes as the hot water starts to move through them.  This is reinforced by the fact that it starts to slow down once they approach a temperature equilibrium.  It's the same effect as when you turn off your car after driving somewhere and you can hear the "pinging" from the engine bay and exhaust system; that's the same thing only in reverse (as the metal starts to cool, it contracts, causing that noise).


Best way to add p-trap under my kitchen sink when drain goes down into slab

If there is already a trap underground, you won't need a trap under the sink - indeed if you added one, you will have major problems with draining with a double-trapped setup.


How can I cut metal roofing and siding into pieces during demolition?

Circular saw (e.g. Skilsaw) with a carbide-toothed framing or demolition blade (or two, or five). Good eye, ear, and skin protection. Reciprocating saw (e.g. Sawzall) for the tight spots.


Central heating pipe to split into 2 runs

If this piping is for a forced water heating system (a pump moves the water), then either piping diagram will work. If however it is for a parallel connection for pairing 2 or more water heaters and you need the same exact amount of flow to each unit then the right hand diagram is the only choice. In a heating system with a pump, The difference in the length of time for each branch to get hot will not be affected by either piping diagram but by the total length of each run of pipe and the total amount of radiation in each branch. I would recommend that if you are installing a new heating system in a building "zoning" would produce the best results. It would allow each zone or room to be controlled by it's own thermostat.


How can I remove mold from the underside of garage roof sheathing?

Sounds like you’re the “seller” and the “buyer’s” inspector found the problem.

In real estate sales, I think it is better for the seller to reduce the asking price and let the buyer “fix” the problem. If you try to fix the problem, I can guarantee you that it won’t be good enough and you’ll be re-negotiating the cost and repair later.


If your EV charger has worked so far with a 6-50, or is shipped with a 6-50 adapter, then it probably doesn't need neutral to function.  That's no surprise, honestly.

There is nothing wrong with changing the plug to 14-50.  In that case, you simply do not connect neutral in the plug.

You certainly do connect safety ground!  In all cases!

In cordage such as SOOW type, the /3 designator means it has 3 wires: black white and ground.  (/2 is groundless, /4 includes a red wire).

Use the white wire as one of the "hot" wires.  The usage will be obvious in this case, but bonus points if you color the wire with a sharpie to indicate it is not neutral.


Dimmer switch with ceiling fan instead of remote

A brief taxonomy of fan controllers

Ceiling fan speed controllers come in a variety of flavors, but there are only a few general types in the market that provide more than On/Off control:

Receiverless wallbox -- your garden variety "Fan speed controller" that only controls fan speed.  All the control logic is found in the controller in the wallbox, and it expects to be wired to a fan only.  Controlling a light kit is done using a separate wire from the wallbox to the fan.
Receiver Wallbox -- high-end fan or fan/light controllers such as the Lutron Maestro.  These use a wallbox controller that communicates with a canopy-mounted receiver via the powerline between the wallbox and the fan.  They are in some ways the most flexible as they support multi-way control of both the fan and the light and also may support home automation, but handheld remotes are rare here.
Receiver Wireless -- your cheap "fan remote" that comes with a fan.  These also use a canopy-mounted receiver module, but it is purely RF-based using a proprietary RF protocol to communicate with the battery powered transmitter-remote.  Their cheapness means they don't support any fancy home automation functions or multi-way controls, and some only provide limited fan speed or light control compared to wallbox controllers.

...and why you shouldn't use a light dimmer to control a fan

Light dimmers are built to switch lights -- a lightbulb is a relatively benign load compared to a fan, at least as far as a dimmer's switching element (triac) is concerned.  This means that cheap dimmers are built using cheap triacs and minimal external snubbing, leaving them unprotected against accidental (premature) turn-on or worse due to what are called dI/dt and dV/dt effects.

Furthermore, a dimmer starts the lights at low coming from the off state.  This is fine for incandescent (or even CFL/LED) lightbulbs, as they don't care.  But, a motor that's managed through variable voltage needs to be brought up to speed after starting then slowed.

Fan speed controllers use more rugged triacs and extra snubber circuits to survive the dI/dt and dV/dt abuses imposed by driving a fan, and they also start the fan motor at maximum speed, then let you turn it down.


Concrete Floor for 400 Gallon Water Tank

My typical answer to these questions is talk to a Licensed Engineer because there are a lot of considerations that are needed. I firmly stand behind that.

On this project make sure you're using the correct information.

Water ~3,300 pounds

Tank ~ 180 pounds,

Concrete (4in thick without reinforcement) ~2,400 pounds

Piping ? other accessories?

Thats only part of the weight that the ground below your tank will support; how sure are you that the ground will hold that? Typically those tanks don't overflow at their rated capacity, they have 5-15% excess capacity, this needs to be designed to passively let the excess overflow or designed for the tank to be filled the overflow level.


Adding Light to Existing 3-Way Switch Configuration

The right hand side has the 2 travelers and a return this was the old way of wiring a 3 way , the left box the neutral goes to the light. The only legal way would be to tag the existing light or bring the power from the left hand switch. It would not be code compliant to tap another neutral in a separate cable even if on the same circuit. This is based on your drawing.


Can a 220V US circuit have more than one 220V outlet, by code?

The code doesn't care if you say you're not going to use stuff at the same time, it assumes you will.

I don't think it would be a code violation to have multiple outlets on a 240 volt circuit (though I could be wrong). The number of outlets is not restricted (at least not that I've seen), based on voltage.

However, the conductors have to be sized for the load, and the overcurrent protection sized to protect the conductors.  So in an existing install, you'll be limited by the size of the conductors that are installed.

My advice would be to remove the dryer receptacle, or run a new circuit for the workshop. If you remove the dryer receptacle, you can extend the circuit to the shop from the junction box.  Then you have the option to go back to a dryer hookup.


How can I lift a sunken paver in the middle of my driveway / patio / walkway / sidewalk?

I've done it two ways. Take a coat hanger and bend a 1" 90 degree at the end of a straightened out hanger. Insert the bent edge down into the seem and twist the hanger so the 1" piece turns under the paver you want to pull up. work it back and forth with a screwdriver in the opposite edge while pulling the paver up.
My other trick was to drill a hole in the paver I wanted to remove and stick in a plastic anchor. Insert the screw, screw it in a bit  and lift up. Save the dust from drilling and when you reset the paver mix it with a little silicone, clear, caulk and stuff it into the hole.


You can use your existing box but you would need a lockout device on the breaker so it can be locked in the off position. Because of cost many just put a disconnect at the heater. Just a note, in my area electric water heaters are much more expensive than gas to operate even compared to the electric heat pump style.


Building a small garden wall and unsure which technique to use

Your use of metric measurements leads me to believe you're not in the US. That aside, most US big-box home improvement stores carry retaining wall blocks that are designed to interlock. I'm sure there is something similar where you live.

This website (hosted by a US-based big-box store (no endorsement expressed or implied) has a short tutorial on how to build a block retaining wall roughly .4m tall. Similar techniques could be used to build one a bit higher. Depending on the block you use, you may be able to build taller.

These are instructions for using a block that has a lip on the back so that each one locks against the one below it to prevent them from sliding forward. Blocks similar to this:

Image sourced from article above

Basically:

Layout your line (yours is a simple straight line)
Trench about 1/2 a block deep
Tamp the ground
Fill with "paver base" (crushed rock that compacts well) and tamp that
Carefully set the first row of block checking each one for level side-to-side and front-to-back, and checking several blocks for level
Start the 2nd row with a 1/2 block (preferably cut with a power saw & masonry blade, though you could chip it in half with a sledge and cold chisel).
Continue to build the wall up, checking for level.
Lay down some landscape fabric and crushed stone to allow for drainage
Use cement adhesive for the top two rows to help them stay put.
Put some sort of cap stone on as the top layer, if desired, or just let the block run to the top.

Of course, this type of wall may not meed code for your locale, so you'd have to check on that, but this is a simpler and less expensive method than the "pyramid wall" shown in your drawing, and is quite acceptable in most US jurisdictions.


If your basement is even somewhat functional then I would try to wire to the attic.  I think a good rule of thumb would be would you let your out of work cousin stay in your basement a few days?  If it is even that nice I would go for the attic, given that you can reasonably get to almost all areas of your attic.  Remember for bedrooms with outer walls that you will have to drill your holes probably from the bedroom and be in a very very tight space in the attic pushing them down.  Also know that if you choose basement because the attic sounds like less fun that basically you can't go back to a better solution without starting over.

I have rewired 20+ houses in my life.  I think I am pretty good with electricity (passed local NEC tests on multiple occasions).  I wouldn't even think about doing a whole house myself.  At the very least I would work with a local electrician.  It is very well that you could do all of the labor and have the electrician OK the planning and make final connections.  I have paid less than 1K after substantial prepping for a small 3 bedroom.

How do you normally wire?  Well if it is attic or basement I normally do a runway for each side of the house and try to keep all of my runs on two lines.  So in the attic, I go up and choose right or left based on first room location.  Then I go down that side's runway (next run will be about 2 inches away) and down as fast as I can - if I need to go out then I like to do so at 90 degrees.  This isn't rocket science but inspect and think about it before you get in your attic.  Good planning will put runways on inside walls of rooms going down that path.

The baseboard thing... I don't even know what to tell you about that.  It's not safe.  Electrical outlets are fine in baseboards - not the wiring running behind them.  Why would you possibly think about doing this when you have to redo your house?  Why redo your house if you are going to do this bad of a job?  If I bought your house with baseboard wiring I would be buying it knowing it is a rewire plus major drywall work. If your local inspectors aren't setting you straight on this please get some advice from a local electrician or even real estate agent.

And that bring me to the next point... The rewiring of a house is about half the work (the thinking half).  The other half is fixing all the walls you had to tear apart.  I will tell you if you have stud framing and drywall you will need to rip out a vertical section of each room to get to outlet level and possibly a couple squares for light switch.  For the rest of the room my team cuts two feet off the bottom all the way around the room, about 6 inches above trim.  Hopefully we don't have to pull the trim.  This allows us to cut our sheets in half and install.  Gives enough room to work and drill holes.  Also the 6 inches is enough to smooth out the mud.

If you aren't planning on doing that in each room... don't rewire your house.  Also make sure that each room has a light switch on it by the door connected to something on the ceiling... and that light should not be on the same circuit as rest of room if you can help it.

Not trying to rant but this is a big job and if you are living in the house almost impossible.  At the very least have the others spend a long weekend somewhere and get the bedrooms wired/drywalled/first coat of mud.


Razor Socket to GFCI Conversion Kit.. Load terminals vs Pigtail

I'd go with your "Pigtailed" plan
Since everything in this box should be on the same circuit based on the existing diagram having the switched-hot and always-hot sharing the same neutral in the outgoing /3 cable and on the fact that there's only one neutral bundle in the box, we can safely assume that neutral bundle can be pigtailed into to get neutral for our GFCI.  To go with that, we pigtail off the always-hot as in your appropriately labeled "pigtailed GFCI" plan, as we don't know what else that always-hot feeds, and putting lighting on a bathroom GFCI has the downside that a GFCI trip will plunge you into the dark, which is bad news if you're holding a curling iron, for instance.


Which kind of roof coating to use to treat low pitch mod bit roof?

Through other channels, I have found that the solution I need is non-fibrous aluminum coating available at most specialty roofing stores.  I believe it has the viscosity of tar and is best applied using a stick brush.


Except you are pumping hot air out of the room.  You are trying to create a vacuum in the room, and nature abhors a vacuum.  It will push an equivalent amount of air back into the room via every possible path, in proportion to their air resistance.

Most likely it is simply going to push air down your skylight, handing your hot air right back to you.

Most of those portable air conditioners that put a hose on the condenser output, also have options to also put a hose on the condenser input. You'll want to figure that out.

keep in mind you only drew the two air conditioner outputs.  There are also two air inputs - one to the condenser, and one to the evaporator (which outputs cold air).  On most units they are separate, or at least separable.

Since only the condenser output leaves the room, only the condenser input needs to be drawn from outside the room.  The evaporator outputs into the room, so the evaporator input can also be inside the room.


Light switch setup using only white wire. Will it work?

Aside from being a code violation of outrageous proportions, if this is 120VAC you would have the delightful condition that the light sockets were always hot/live - this can make changing a lightbulb into a shocking experience, and under the right conditions, also your last.

You may also get some interesting magnetic effects from the loop wiring.

Don't do this. The only level it "works" at is the Dr. Frankenstein's Laboratory level, and most people are not as tough as Igor. If it's actually something you found (or even, nay, especially, if it's something you are responsible for creating), rip it the heck out and do it right.


Well it looks like a « 3 in 1 » to locate or align the holes in workpieces, then tap a thread and finally install a bolt with a square head.

Square head bolts tend to be for older things but not sure what industry that was designed for.


Is it OK to drain sump water into a pond?

Unless you have reason to believe that the sump output is contaminated, and assuming that you have legal access to the pond, this is a perfectly viable solution. In fact, even if the pond does eventually (or occasionally) drain into a stream, the natural filtering effect of the process should remain somewhat intact.

As Tester101 points out, local and state laws may apply. In my experience there's no problem ejecting groundwater into a wetland in a non-destructive manner. We've run open-loop geothermal systems into adjacent wetlands, and in Minnesota wetlands are strictly protected.