I would not break or cut the bricks, someday you (or someone else) may want to move the TV and have a wall that is still aesthetically pleasing. Cut or chiseled bricks just won't look right.

Use wood (or some other material) blocks to "fur" the wall out. In other words, mount the TV off of the wall the same distance that the bricks protrude.


How can I repair/replace this swollen section of countertop?

Particle board and water are not good friends. Trying to "repair" water damaged particle board is not particularly feasible and the real solution is replacement.
In your case the particle board has been covered with a hard laminate product called Formica (or other similar product) that is bonded to the particle board substrate with contact cement. If you were to just want to focus on replacing the back splash it would entail removing all of the old back splash and replacing with new. Doing so does however impose a number of potential big problems. Here are some of the considerations:

The back splash of the countertop is likely built right into the top as an integral assembly of the substrates and then was covered with the Formica and trimmed in place with a laminate trimming router. Partial disassembly in this case would likely not be successful.
If there is any age to this countertop it is unlikely that you can find matching replacement laminate material in the same pattern. The manufacturers of this material come out with dozens of new patterns and colors every year to keep pace with current trends and tastes. In addition the material can change looks over time and even new material of the same pattern may look obviously different.
Even if the back splash can be individually removed it may become very difficult to install a new suitable substrate fastened to the wall and then having laminate installed in place. This would be due to how a laminate trimming router cannot be used on a narrow 1" top that is wedged up against the wall. If the replacement back splash was made up in the shop and then brought to the installation site there would be little choice but to try to glue it to the wall and the chances of getting a very good fit down to the existing counter top are highly unlikely. After all you would not want to see screws or nails through the back splash to hold it in place.

I can see two general repair strategies that may work for you. The first is to cut out the existing back splash and replace it with something contrasting and different. Tiles can be installed in a row across the back of the counter (in fact that is what my current 35 year old house has; laminate countertop with ceramic tile back splashes in the kitchen and laminate countertops in the bathrooms with red oak board back splash trimming).
The second strategy would be to remove all of the back splash and countertop materials and build in new replacements. A professional may very well suggest a replacement countertop material that comes pre-made with an integrated back splash and laminate that is continuous across the surface from the front edge all the way across and curved up and over the rounded edges of the back splash. If you want to retain the rectangular style like you currently have that can surely be built anew by a good craftsman but if you go that route consider using plywood as the substrate instead if particle board.
Covering a countertop with Formica laminate is a style that has really gone by the wayside in the recent decades in favor or other materials such as tile, stone, marble and other fake imitations of these. This may be a time to consider an upgrade to a more modern style.


What would be the cleanest way to wire a wyze security camera from a light switch in a staircase?

It looks like the white wire may be a neutral. This is good.
However, it looks like the switch is a 4 way switch (though I always though 3 way switches were used at the top of the stairs).  This is less good -- there's no consistent hot leg on it.
You can verify both of these with a multimeter.
So I don't think this box is going to help you much, as you need to have constant power and neutral to power an outlet.


is it ok to daisy-chain hot wire to multiple switches in same box?

There's no problem with the wiring methods you've described.  Using a single wire, reduces the number of wires in a slice. This can come in handy when trying to reduce the number of wires in a twist on wire connector.


New Smoke Detectors continually alarm when connected

I would recommend you use a step by step approach to connect these up.

I noticed you said each one the alarm sounds immediately. That sounded like you connected up the bases and then began stabbing in the detectors with the power on. I can tell you that electronic devices do not like that. So everything you need to do you should always do with the power off and then turn it on.

First turn the power off, then disconnect every base except for the first one, plug in the device and see if a single one works alone.

Then turn the power off and connect the next base, plug the device, turn the power on and see if they will work in tandem. If the device alarms then turn the power off and try using a different device, turn the power back on.

Keep repeating this procedure until you begin to isolated the problem. either a base is miswired or a device is defective. Or as the last resort a P12040 and a i4618ac are not compatible. That's why you need to contact the manufacturer.

Hopes this helps.


What should the difference of inner to outer diameter of two pipes be to ensure one fits snugly within another?

There are no set rules across materials, all the materials have different wall thickness (thus outside diameters) based on their use (strength and durability) and other reasons. The best you can do is pick your material and look at the size charts to find something that works for your needs


Leveling concrete for bathroom installation

I'd just use more thinset in this area for the tile floor.  10" isn't a huge area, 3/8" height isn't a huge height difference and assuming you start tiling somewhere else you'll need this extra thickness for the tile to sit level with the surrounding tiles.
You could use SLC first on that one area but it just adds another step for little value.  If you were to add an extra step I'd probably just use thinset to pull this area up first.  Most SLC needs a primer and you'd have to buy at minimum a bag so unless you have some other uses for the remainder easier to go with thinset.


You can get vinyl sheets really cheap especially if you don't care how they look.  I have picked up a decent sized sheet for $20 on craigslist.

Your other option is polyurethane.  2-3 coats will give you a decent barrier for the water.


What's a good entry-level text/video on residential plumbing?

Home Depot and Lowe's both sell pretty well illustrated, basic books on Plumbing.  I have one, "Plumbing 1-2-3" which is from one of those two (can't remember off hand which but I think it's HD) which covers all the basics, has clear pictures, easy to follow directions, and makes you think, 'Oh heck yeah that's obvious...'

As for videos - there's always the DIY network Plumbing section.


Is plunging a toilet without a plunger a good tip or a horrible idea?

Ok all dirty humor aside, that sounds like a terrible idea.  OMG, what a mess that could make.  First off, the idea is to never plunge the jam further down the pipe, instead the best solution is to suck the jam back up the pipe first, allow any vacuum to ease then send it down the pipe. How this is done is to submerge your plunger into the water allowing the cup to fill with water. GENTLY push it down over the drain opening slowly  forcing the water out and compressing the plunger cup. Now you will created a good seal and a vacuum. Quickly PULL the plunger out. repeat this process a few times before attempting to plunge down. The idea here is to pull the blockage back a bit and open a path.  Once you see the water receding a bit, vigorously plunge up and down. Trust me, this works in most cases and will be a lot less messy than High altitude bombing!


What's the best way to protect myself from a rental house?

You can find home inspection checklists online (e.g. http://www.clta.titlewizard.com/learning_center/documents/HomeInspectionCklist.pdf), but these are written for home buyers.

As a renter, I wouldn't accept a lease that holds you responsible for damage that you didn't create, and I also wouldn't accept a lease that doesn't exclude normal wear and tear.  In this market, there's no reason to deal with anyone that expects you to deal with these things.  If a toilet isn't working or the wiring is bad, it's the landlord's responsibility to fix.

The things I would lookout for are the obvious: are there spots in the carpeting or damage to the walls from the last tenant that haven't been repaired.  It is a good idea to make sure the appliances and utilities are all in good running condition, but more because that indicates how well the landlord maintains the property and gives you some idea of how much they will take care of things once you are renting.  Know your responsibilities with the landscaping in advance.  In my neighborhood, the rentals are typically the ones with small jungles growing in the backyard.

If you're paying for the utilities, look for energy saving devices, including an electronic thermostat that can adjust on a schedule when you're at work.  For water, low flow toilets and shower heads will save you money.

For safety, look for deadbolts on the doors and locks on the windows (and check the crime stats for the neighborhood).  Make sure there are smoke detectors in the bedrooms and GFCI outlets near any source of water.


how can i find electric short from room to fuse box?

My approach (not an electrician, just a guy with a meter) would be to start by mapping the circuit (find all of the outlets and fixtures that are on it), then unplugging EVERYTHING that's plugged into that circuit and see if that has an effect.

Next up, I'd kill the breaker and open up the switches and take a look. See if there's evidence of burning or arcing, or if one switch feels different than the other. I'd probably disconnect both switches (safely capping all wires), then turn the breaker back on and verify (using a meter) that the voltage is reasonable at all the outlets and other fixtures, and see what happens in the bedroom.

Basically if that tells you nothing, then I'd either start pulling outlets and fixtures off the circuit (kill breaker, remove outlet, capping wires, breaker back on) until I figured out what the heck was wrong, OR I'd just call an electrician.


Looking at your original picture, I can tell the moisture is coming in near (or at) the top of the floor joist not the bottom, because water won’t “wick” up that floor joist uniformly like it is showing. (In fact, it seems wetter along the top of joist than middle of joist.)

Therefore, I’d concentrate on the joint at the top of the 2x8 trim.

According to your drawing, it looks like you’re relying on caulking at the top of the 2x8 to keep moisture out. That means the caulking has to be perfectly installed and well maintained. Even then you can develop problems. (Look at at knot in the first row of logs and notice that moisture can penetrate into the knot and run down behind the caulking.)

We usually use a piece of counterflashing that laps over the 2x8 about 3” and extends into the wall void about 3” with a 1” hook in the up position. (Make sure the flashing is no more than 10’ long, for expansion, and each piece laps about 6” and is sealed with mastic where it laps.)

Also, I’d install that 2x8 on peel and stick  moisture barrier and extend it under the counterflashing and over the subfloor, if possible.

Also, we don’t like caulking at the bottom of the 2x8.  We like moisture to run out if it gets behind the 2x8 at the joints, corners, etc.


Is AFCI required for detached workshop subpanel?

I interpret the 2014 code requirement the same way. However the real question is how does the AHJ in you area interpret the code. You might check with him about what they require before making a decision.


Wiring garage ceiling light receptacle to gfci outlet

Although Harper is partly correct a GFCI receptacle must be readily accessible and code defines this as 6’7” max exhibit 100.1 in the 2020 code this is also the max height for a disconnecting /circuit breaker switch handle as specified in 404.8.A.
The receptacle will need to be moved down or a GFCI circuit breaker installed in the panel to be code compliant.
The problem you currently have is your tester (many on this site refer to them as magic 8 ball testers because you are only sure they are correct when the circuit works other than that it’s a guess).
Have you tried pressing the test and reset buttons on the GFCI many models require this to turn on the first time and some models require it after every power cycle.


Leaky bathroom faucet - can't find screw on handle

grab the round base right below the handle that turns the water on and twist ccw to   unscrew the faucet. this is a moen faucet. however, I have the same faucet in my bathroom. I called moen for parts and they said that most parts are not available since they discontinued production of this faucet. iF YOU ARE THE ORIGINAL OWNER of the faucet and can prove it they will send you a new faucet at no charge if the parts needed are not available.


Can I use a 23 W CFL in a fixture that's rated for a 60 W incandescent?

As far as I know, the only risk at issue here is of overheating of the bulb. The heat comes from two sources: the output and waste heat of the bulb, and from resistive heating of the fixture wires and switch and socket contacts. CFL bulbs draw less current and produce less heat for a given light output; however, they are far less tolerant of high temperatures!

Therefore, the rationale of the warning label may well be to warn that the fixture is not sufficiently ventilated for a CFL bulb above that power, even if the fixture is itself capable of surviving that amount of heat.

However, it is also quite possible that someone converted the "equivalent wattage" (which is a statement of light output and therefore almost completely irrelevant to power/heating) without thinking about it. I recently (2016) saw a lamp which had a claimed limit like "60W incandescent, 13W CFL, 7W LED". That's clearly just converting, and it's not going to be accurate for the wide variety of LED bulb types available.


Strange looking garage beam support post

I would hire a structural engineer to give me a report on the existing conditions and include any needed support for that beam. Tell him your ideas and intentions so he can advise you what is needed or required.


My standard procedure for dealing with shallow angle bends when none of the prefab sizes are right, is two of them.

Obviously you can get the bend you want with two 90's; my point is this works with shallower angles too.  You simply have the bends in different planes, so they add up to the correct angle in a third plane.


I have pulled both switches out and at the end of the room with the three way switch I found that it has the standard setup for a three-way; one white, one black, and one traveller.

A standard three way setup has a hot feed or a switched leg to the load, and two traveler wires between the two switches. One switch gets a hot feed and the other gets the switched leg to the load.

The "two-way" switch you describe is a single pole switch and does not belong in a three-way switch loop. That is why the circuit does not work properly.

The problem with giving you a diagram is, there are several different ways to wire this circuit depending on where you feed the circuit. So, you need to determine where the circuit is fed from. The light or one of the switches are your choices.

Search the interwebs for "three-way switch circuit" and you should be able to find all of the several iterations of this circuit.

Good luck!


I was having the same problem...until I switched my multimeter to ACV!!!

I had purchased a fast stat common maker. I was measuring 12V across the thermostat terminals and R and C with my multimeter set to DCV, and wondering where I was going to get 24V from.  I found a 24V DC transformer and hooked that up to R and C thinking it would work but of course, no.  Honestly, I played with it for hours, then it dawned on me that I must be doing something wrong.

Nothing was working, ecobee wasn't happy.

Switched multimeter to ACV, and found that lo and behold, R and C on the boiler does give 24V.  rewired everything and from then on everything worked perfectly.

good luck!


You can use that 6/2 WITH Ground wire and run it down through the stud just like 14/2.

I am surprised that it requires 6 gauge wire - What voltage and how many amps ?
I know you mentioned a 60 AMP breaker but that does not tell unit amperage as there are codes and guidelines for proper CB ratings.

That has to be one serious Hot Water Heater - I would have expected #8 or #10.

As for your mention of 14/2 to the boiler unit:

Any chance your old unit was a gas unit ?

That would explain the 14/2 wiring 120VAC for control circuits and gas to do the heavy lifting.
Just an FYI they do make Gas Powered Instant Water Heaters as well.

A 60 AMP breaker might be fine in the same panel as long as your panel will support the additional load. Since you are calling an electrician get quotes an electrician will tell you if your panel will support the added load or if you need a sub panel. This is all dependent on what you already have - a panel model number with pictures of behind the face plate cover would be helpful.

Since your Instant Water Heater is 220V you will not need an AFCI breaker, I would recommend a GFCI breaker.


Sistering 2x8s to 2x4 truss system for vaulted ceiling?

This type of roof construction is what I call “stick built” That is to say individual boards are nailed together in the field in place. Another similar type is “beam and joist”.
The main difference between the two systems is the beam and joist can resist the spreading of the exterior walls when put in a vaulted design. Where as the stick built will “push” the exterior walls outward when the bottom chords are removed for a vaulted design.
I think you have two options:
OPTION #1: Install a “roof tie” from one side (2x8 joist) to the other side (2x8 joist) to keep the joists from spreading apart when you remove the horizontal 2x4’s to create the vaulted design. (If you like the ceiling vaulted up to the peak, the roof tie could remain exposed.)
OPTION #2: Install a ridge beam the length of the roof so the new 2x8 roof joists can rest on the beam. By installing the ridge beam, all of the vertical forces (Live Load and Dead Load) will act vertically on the ridge beam AND exterior walls...thus no need for the roof ties.
I like the idea of using rigid insulation so you can maintain a 1” or 2” air space between the insulation and the bottom of the roof sheathing for ventilation. However, remember the code says ventilation shall be “cross-ventilation”. In order to accomplish this you’ll need to either provide a ridge vent and cut the sheathing back so air can vent in each joist space...or cut holes through the ridge joist so air can circulate from side to side of building.
You are creating a “habitable space”. Therefore you’ll need to bring the entire structure up to code, including energy code (walls and slab on grade), structural code (wind and seismic shear resistance), exit/entrance door (3’ wide minimum), egress window (in sleeping room), bath and kitchen facilities, etc.
To answer your original question, yes 2x8’s at 24” on center sistered to the original rafters will work, but as described in Option 1 and 2, several conditions apply, (i.e.: add roof tie or add ridge beam).
**Update 1:
The new picture shows a several structural trusses with a ridge “beam” spanning from truss to truss. This is not what was described in the OP. Building structural trusses using 2x8 joists for the top chord is possible. Providing a horizontal lower chord with a vertical king post at the center could be similar to the new updated picture. However, the 2x8 joists would be buried in the roof structure in order to provide the air space required for venting.


Please yes!  I am literally 90% done doing a complete remodel of my house.  Other than the aluminum wiring that I have replaced the #1 biggest stupid thing I have dealt with is the 20 (no exaggeration) different types of wallpaper put on the house in 1967 during the custom build.  Out of the 20 only 3-4 types (2 specific rooms) had primer.  Those two rooms took like 20 mins a piece to get the wallpaper down with very little repairing.

In the rooms without primer, I often looked back and thought it might have been easier to rip drywall out and start over - it was that bad.  So please prime first.  If not for you in a few years, for the next home owners.


Painting an old metal gate with some corrosion

To me, it looks like you have a very old Zinc coated gate, which has many areas which have been touched up with a grey paint (I may be completely wrong)..

Typically the galvanization is done when the clean metal fence is dipped into molten zinc and effectively coated in a corrosive resistant zinc shell. if you would like to return the fence to original condition, your best bet would be to remove the entire gate and take the unit to a galvanizing plant for re-galvanizing. Unfortunately the fact that it may already be galvanized means that they need to acid remove the original coating which will cost double, and they would be worried that the acid burns into the mesh too much. (you would have to remove your lock and consult the galvanizing guys if the current hinges will be ok)

The other option is to simply remove all traces of the rust from the existing gate and re-apply a coating of paint. I would say if you choose to paint the gate do not remove, however if spraying is your intention, then i would recommend removal.

To prepare for painting. some sand paper and stainless steel brushes would do the trick, if you have some power tools you could really benefit from steel brush powertool accessories (drill, grinder or polisher)

Using some sand paper, and steel brushes (in the heavy rust areas) scrape away all rust. Once you are happy, I would apply a primer coating (zinc chromite metal primer) and then a final coat of good quality enamel paint.

The corrosion you are seeing are the zinc which has formed pots (are you near the coast?)  if so... painting your fence with enamel is not advised.. since corrosion is too excessive near the coast.

another option would be to prepare the fence (sanding where the rust areas are) and then re-applying the galvanized coating with a brush. this will add some life back to the gate (but does not compare to actually having the gate professionally galvanized)

a Google search for galvanizing paint or spray should get some results.

Lastly, if you are worried about painting on the wall, simply use some masking tape on the edges.


How do you remove a stuck glass door knob?

It is definitely a threaded connection. The threaded rod (spindle) looks something like this:

Now that the set screw is out, lean on it (especially if you don’t care if it breaks).

Image source


How to get a granite counter top with sink off a wooden bathroom vanity

Use a long sharp knife, like a carpet/flooring knife, to slice through the caulking or construction adhesive that was used on the top of the vanity when the sink was set onto it. Then yes, use a lifting/prying strategy that minimizes potential for damage to the cabinet. You may need to slice, lift a little, slice some more, lift a little more, slice...


Why do I have two blue and two red wires in my ceiling light fixture?

This appears to be a CFL can with an integral ballast
What you are looking at appears to be a type of recessed "can" downlight that was designed to use a 4-pin compact fluorescent bulb with the ballast for that bulb integrated into the fixture.  (Think of a "tube" style fluorescent fixture that's been zapped with a twisty shrink ray.)
As a result, if you want to do something other than put a CFL in it, you'll need to replace the fixture outright (or have the electrician put a replacement in for you).


Why is there a 2" step down into my bathroom?

Because when you pour water or want to wash bathroom, water will not leak to the dry part of home near the door.


Can I replace the permanent filter in my furnace?

You can just order a new filter if that makes you feel better.  There is nothing wrong with replacing it.  However most of the permanent ones can be washed in the dishwasher.  I would look at the manufacturers guide and just clean it - as if something isn't broke why fix it.  I have found getting replacements can be off by a little and cause issues.  But you could always keep old one until you are sure what you ordered works.  I would not leave the furnace without a filter.


What's involved in moving a support post?

You would certainly need to consult a structural engineer and get all plans approved and permitted before beginning work. It will be expensive but since you indicate willingness here goes.... It is completely possible to relocate that post. The question will always be price and design. In my humble opinion the work isn't even all that difficult once you know exactly which material and sizes are required for the load.

That support post is compression support for the visible beam. In order to properly move it you would likely need to add two vertical support beams with a perpendicular cross member to take their place. This member would likely be steel.

That new beam could go below the existing beam (with the existing beam sitting atop it) but depending on the span and the load this would fill in significant headroom and break your clean ceiling line.

Alternatively, depending on the roof structure, you may be able to hang the new beam above the visible beam inside the attic space. This would have the added benefit of not eating interior headroom. You would probably place the vertical beams inside the wall where the bear painting is, and the wall to the left of the sink.

Either approach should work. Neither is significantly complex for a structural engineer. They will both likely be quite expensive to do.

EDIT: So how will they change it? What's involved? If you put the beam below the existing one, then temporary support posts will be constructed on both sides of the existing post. The post would then be removed and a replacement beam jacked in place beneath it.

If the beam is to be "hung" from a new crossmember then the existing post will stay in place while the new posts are built. The beam would be jacked up slightly from both sides, and a steel hanger bracket would be placed under it, fastening it to the new in-ceiling beam. Finally, the existing post is removed.

In both cases a support immediately below the beam, beneath the floor, should give support all the way to foundation which means that you may need to pour in the crawlspace and tie into the existing stem walls.


Will heat pump heat home faster than space heater?

The answer depends on size of the space heater vs heat pump. If they are set same size in BTU they will take the same amount of time and the heat pump will cost much less. If you double the size of the heat pump compared to the space heater the heat pump now will heat much faster at a similar cost to the space heater type system.


Replacing a sill, on a factory built Marvin window?

To answer the way the issue should be fixed is to replace the window. That way the rotted framing can be repaired too without the window in the way or have any fear of having the window drop from trying to undermine the old framing or, if the framing is still intact, if offers access to inspect it properly.

I can see though, it will be quite costly to do.

To repair the sill will be tedious, time consuming, and after all that, still may need to replace the window after all.

You will need to start by removing completely a small portion (12-16") of the window sill to see if the shims that support the window are under the window jamb behind the sill or if the window is supported by shims under the sill itself. It would be a huge help if you removed the trim from the inside too, and if needed, cut the drywall  to exposed the full rough opening to the top of the rough sill. This will be helpful on evaluating all the sill from the interior to the exterior.

If the shims are under the jamb and not the sill, (this is how it should have been set) then the fix may be simpler, and you can move on with removing the remainder of the sill. Please be vigilant on the removal process that it is complete, not a hiding splinter of wood is tucked away somewhere especially in the groove that the old sill tied into, and especially that the new sill will go there too. The screws, nails and any caulk that the old sill had holding it in place goes too. Do be certain that the window is shimmed a few spots in the middle and especially at the ends where the jambs meet in the corner.

Sometime along this process you will have a chance to inspect what you can see of the rough sill that the window sets on. If the sill is decayed, the window should really be pulled and repair the rough sill. My fear is the sill is shot since the window has been repaired before and from the looks of it now the soft decayed wood will let rainwater pass through to wet the framing below it and start rot there.. To have this intact is important in the replacement process.

A sketch will be good for me to issue on the reassembly. If you think you still want to tackle the repair I will try to figure out how to get a drawing to show up here. I am new here and I have yet to figure out how to do some things. The sketch will take time too, I am familiar with Sketch Up, which I have seen used in the forums before.
Just to let you know, this is just getting to the tedious part, what I mention so far is easy in comparison, but this is the type of stuff I enjoyed doing at work when I had the chance.

I added a edited pic that you posted earlier to show how the various parts will fit in their final position. The labeling on the pic should be self explanatory for the most part.

Some details that would not fit on the pic,
the recut of the rib on the new sill needs to make the rib narrower by 1/8 inch, to keep it the same size will make it nearly impossible to get it to engage to matching groove in the jamb. I tried to set a sill to a window on the jobsite before the window was set, I could not get it to go in without a recut. Any slight bow in the sill would drive anybody crazy to get it to set. The rib is important to act as a water stop, so it really so stay intact, just a little narrower

Before all this is set in place and while this cutting is being done, make sure you get enough sill to use as test pieces, say 4 ft. extra, to make a number of 1 ft. test pieces. If it doesn't work mock up another.

Once all is going together properly, set the screws too, but do not caulk it yet, you must get it to fit first completely before you add caulk. When caulk is added between the sill and jamb to bed the sill, that will change everything enough to make it tough to reset the screws. I don't know why, it just does. I have done this stuff before and it is easy without the caulk, but as soon as caulk is added it gets really tough.

To get the angle of the screws to come out of the sill in the exact spot you need, start the drilling from the side the screw will come OUT of. This spot is in front of the rib and just passing by the inside corner of the sill out of the bottom of the sill.  Where it comes out is not that important as long as it is outside of the stucco face.  The most important thing is the sill is tight to the jamb with caulk in place and the screws have the least angle possible to draw  the sill even tighter.


I am a bit confused by the question - I think you're saying there's a 40 amp panel with a 20 amp two pole breaker for an air conditioner you want to add a 30 amp breaker for a washer dryer unit, and you want to make sure the washer breaker and the air conditioner breaker don't go on at the same time.  (Also, are you thinking break before make, and have it reversed in the question's title?)

Would it work to use a 30 amp DPDT switch on a 30 amp breaker, one throw going to the washer dryer, the other going to a disconnect with a 20 amp breaker feeding the existing air conditioner?  For example this one

Hubbell 1388

looks at a glance like it would be adequate.

The AC and it's existing wiring probably has to be on a 20 amp breaker, so you couldn't just connect it to the switch. I think you could find a 20 amp disconnect to go between the AC throw of the switch and the existing wiring.

Is there another panel for the apartment?  With all this on 40 amp main I'd see a lot of trips.


My guess is that the C-shaped retainers at the ends of the arms rotate. You'd turn them to horizontal.


Ceiling vent right next to wall. Ideas for grille cover?

You could use the 10 x 14 and cut edge off that goes up against the wall and then drill two holes in each of the long edges of the register close to the wall. Use two plastic anchors and screws there and then one of the regular screws that came with the register on the far end. Stay cool man.


What's the best house wrap to use underneath hardiplank (fiber cement) sidings?

Make sure you install your siding according to ALL the manufacturers instructions, including the house wrap. See the Hardi specifications.
If you notice, the third item under “General Requirements” requires you to use a house wrap that is approved by the Building Department...which includes “HardiWrap”.
Using HardiWrap will assist in your sound control issue too. HardiWrap has small protrusions across the face of the moisture barrier which keeps the siding slightly away from the wall and allows moisture to “drain” down behind the siding. This “space”will help the STC rating of your wall...although I doubt the wall is the “weak link” in your sound control system. (I’d look at lack of operable window flashing, outlets on either side of the wall, etc. that create weak links in the sound control barrier.) There are some exceptions, like in very cold climates where the water can freeze and expand, so that’s why they say “approved by the Building Department”.
We know siding leaks, that’s why we use house wrap. We’ve now learned that water must escape too. So, the manufacturer now requires caulking at the jambs and sill, but not at the head of doors and windows. This allows water to run down the wall and escape and not get trapped at the head.


Should vents protruding through the roof be protected from weather?

Vent pipes no, the pipes are supposed to the set so any rain that enters, drains down the same as any water that enters the pipe from the sinks, tubs, toilets etc.

Intake pipes are only to take in air, not water and if there is a low spot in the pipe, water may eventually block the pipe like a water trap, so they need to be protected from the weather.


Plumbing utility sink into washing machine with no vent

Don't stack the san tee's on top of each other like in your second drawing. As the top fixture drains it can create a vacuum inside the Lower trap  arm and siphon the water from the trap allowing sewer gas into the room. What you want to do instead is use an upside down wye or "Y" fitting (so there is two openings on top and one on the bottom)  with a 45° elbow on the branch that isn't completely vertical.   You should end up with what looks like  a lower case h but flipped upside down. Now that you have two separate vertical lines you can add your san tees on top of each, then run your drain line to your sink,  and the other can serve the laundry.

And as for the vents.   On top of your san teesRun the pipe up higher than the flood rim of either fixture (the point where water will overflow), so either top of sink or washer whichever Is higher.  Put a 90° elbow on one and point it towards the other pipe.  Take one more san tee but flip it opposite direction (the middle hub/opening should curve upwards not down) put that on your other pipe pointed at your 90° , tie them together.   Add another small piece of pipe to the top and a AAV Or studor vent on that and your all set.

The condensate and air conditioner you can run to the corner of the sink,  or you could put another upside down wye & 45° on the laundry standpipe/drain ABOVE THE P TRAP and run them into that.

In that situation they will act as a sort of trap primer.  Not that you would need one there.   But the important thing about those two lines are that they must have a 2" air gap.  Meaning you can't tie them directly into a sanitary sewer line.  They have to be an indirect drain.

BUT*
This has all been with the assumption that your local authority having jurisdiction uses these Uniform Plumbing Code.  I can't speak for IPC however.

And for any of this to be true  you would need to know if the stand pipe has a p trap below the floor or not.     If it does you shouldn't be adding any fixtures to that stand pipe.


What do I use to mount a heavy framed mirror to a stud wall?

You'll probably have an easier time using a picture hanger than a screw, and it will leave your wall in better shape when you remove it. Picture hangers transfer the downward force into pressure into the wall because the nail is mounted at an angle. The screw, on the other hand, is being bent because you're acting as a lever, where the stud is the fulcrum, the drywall is just empty space, and the wire is the force applied at the end. Even if you get a stronger screw, you're still placing a significant twisting force into the stud.

You can't use your typical picture hanger for a task like this. The small hangers that come in most kits are rated to only 20-30 lbs. However, you can find hangers like this one that is rated to 100 lbs (and I'd still use two of them, since it will make adjusting for level much easier and reduce the risk of failure).

The other option is called a french cleat which are two interlocking rails, one that attaches to the wall, and the other to what you're hanging. As long as you install them both straight and level, you don't need to adjust the mirror for level, and it distributes the weight across a larger area, reducing the risk of a failure.


Insulation over ceiling drywall nailers or scabs

no.no.no.  don't slit the paper.  its there as a vapour barrier.  having your insulation humped up over the backing is no issue, as long as your vapour barrier and insulation are complete and with full integrity.  just make sure that there are no gaps between the adjacent insulation and your humped piece of insulation (ie. where cold air can get down against the cold side of the drywall.  here in Ontario, nobody has used paper backed insulation for years.  we have the requirement of a seamless plastic barrier, taped, pocketed and sealed at all penetrations to make a giant air balloon out of every heated space.  the logic is the same for any place on earth, even if you are working with old materials or new materials that use old technologies.


Placement of evaporator unit on top of furnace (residential)

Your flue is going to be a metal flue screwed together at the joints so it should be fairly easy to remove. I don't know how the access panel is removed but it looks like just a few screws and it possibly can be slid out with the flue still in place. If that's the case then when you route the flue try not to block access to any of the panel screws. I would be more concerned about the routing of the refrigerant lines because those are somewhat permanent. If you have a concern as to how close the flue can to the refrigerant lines, the wall, the drain etc. then post that as a separate question.


Using rj45 connectors for home alarm wiring

There's no sensible application for RJ45s in a proper alarm system install, unless some alarm company comes out with control panels and sensors equipped with them. The alarm you mention is not...
The sensors and control panels don't work with them, being designed for screw connections to stripped wires, and your cables should run from each sensor to the alarm control panel unbroken. Adding connectors in the middle just adds points of failure that not having connectors removes.
You chose to make some splits. You didn't have to, and it's not a best practice, which is one complete cable to each sensor, and if you have extra wires you don't need right now, no big deal, as opposed to cutting cable jackets open midway and extracting a couple of pairs, which is a hack, and an additional potential point of failure. Or chopping off the cable and having a junction to two other cables, which is a worse hack.
I can't see any way that crimping RJ45s in the middle of a cable running between screw terminals at the control panel and screw terminals at the sensor "simplifies" anything. You'd need to connect jacks to the sensor and alarm panel, which is still "joining each wire individually" and more places to fail.


What maintenance does a cedar deck require?

Cedar is naturally rot-resistant, but not 100% rot proof. Keep it clean & dry.

Leaves are especially good at promoting rot. They are design to turn in to new soil to feed the tree they fall from, so they rot fast. If they clump up on your deck, they will hold moisture & invite fungus to break them down. That will hurt your deck, too.

In general, look for anything that will hold moisture against your deck. Yard debris, a door mat, etc.


Whole house fan - unexpected voltage at high/low switch

To me it sounds like your switch is failing or arcing and not providing power under load.
Can you spin the fan? It should not be hard to spin  Just verify prior to the next step.
General purpose snap switches need to be 2x the motor rating.
Turn the breaker off
I would pull your high & low connections from the switch and insulate 1 take the other directly to the power on the first switch . Turn the breaker on if the fan spins up get motor rated single pole single throw and single pole double throw switches.
The high voltage measured on low when the fan is on high is a “transformer type action “ from the different number of windings in high and low


What could cause a shower to give warm water for a few seconds, then only cold water?

Your water supplies may be pre-mixing. That is, mixing cold and hot water even when no faucet is on. This may happen if you have any fixture where hot and cold water handles/valves are left on but a third valve that is used to regulate flow and is shut off. You, or a previous owner, might have made this configuration so that the temperature never has to be adjusted at that fixture, for example. The hot and cold water may be mixing in the short length of pipe/faucet behind the third valve. This reservoir of mixed water then begins to extend out into the supply pipes. If so, you might get this pre-mixed, warmish water from a second fixture nearby, even when you only turn on the cold water at this second fixture. After a few seconds, the pre-mixed water is flushed out of the cold water supply pipe and pure cold water comes out the faucet. This may explain the initial burst of warm water from the shower.

Edit: To (hopefully) illustrate the above pre-mixing scenario, imagine this. You have hot and cold supply pipes leading to your bathroom. Each junction, one leg going to your tub+shower and one going to your sink (ignore the toilet for a minute). The sink's hot supply goes to the hot faucet handle. The sink's cold supply goes to the cold faucet handle. Nothing hinky there. Now imagine the hot and cold supply goes to a tub with its own hot and cold faucet handles. One old tub fixture I've seen had two additional valves (in addition to the two from the faucet handles). One to control the flow of the tub faucet and another to control the flow of a shower head. Now let's say both the tub and shower flow valves are turned off so no water is flowing but the cold and hot water faucet handles/valves are turned on and left in position so that the mix/temperature doesn't have to be adjusted. What may happen in this case is that the hot and cold water supplies become connected and open to one another in that little length of pipe that sits between the hot/cold faucet handles and the tub+shower valves. So the hot water slowly bleeds into the cold supply and vice versa. After some time the warmish water in the cold water supply spreads back to the supply's junction and then further down the pipes toward the sink faucet. Then when you turn on the sink's cold water the first burst is warm rather than cold, all because there is a wonky fixture configuration somewhere nearby that opens the cold and warm supplies to one another. Now this particular configuration is old and probably very rare (and poorly designed... and don't wrack your brain too much trying to visualize this faucet/valve figure, just the idea of pre-mixing) and it doesn't describe your configuration but I mention it just as a possible clue to follow. Check nearby fixtures and appliances (laundry?) that may be either misconfigured in such a way to broken and thus pre-mixing the hot and cold water even when the fixture/appliance is not on/running.

As for why the shower ultimately produces cold water when the handle is turned to hot, it almost sounds like the hot water supply is connected to the cold stem on the back of the shower flow/temp adjustment valve, and the cold supply connected to the hot stem. Try leaving the shower valve adjusted to cold for a while and see if the water gets warmer. Also verify that the connections at the back of the valve are not reversed.

Also, try to collect more details on when the hot water pipe gets warm and gets cold. If the hot water pipe between the shower faucet/valve and the nearest junction is ever getting hot that suggests that hot water is actually flowing through the faucet. If it gets cold when the faucet is on that suggests that the cold water pressure is overwhelming the hot and pushing its way through the shower mixer into the hot supply pipe.

Hope some of this helps.


How to find source of leak in heating pipes under concrete / glued floors?

Split the system into major parts:

disconnect the pipework that goes underfloor and test.

test the boiler...

One will show a slow or more rapid leak then you know at least which direction.
If its the floor, then you have to get to the pipes somehow...


Are expansion gaps required in between pine flooring for a shed?

There is no need to leave a expansion joint cause treated lumber has a tendency to shrink when it gets warm due to the moisture leaving the lumber.  In my experience nail everything tight cause when it does shrink you will have perfect joints.


Compression fit necessary for waste pipe

Your forth photo is not correct, the fitting in the photo is a sanitary tee and is not used in that location. there should be one in the wall and that is what the waste pipe is glued to.

Your third image is correct except you need a 1-1/2-in dia PVC Trap Adapter Fitting

to glue onto the waste pipe coming from the wall. It glues on to the waist pipe and has treads to accept the compression nut you have with your p trap kit. You will then slide the p trap pipe into the adapter and compress the washer to the adapter by tightening the compression nut to the adapter.

To account for an off center p trap alignment you can swing the p trap sideways ( if it is not to far off center ) and then adjust the length of the pipe going into the waste adapter. You may need an extension or to cut to length depending on how close you are. If you are to far off center you can use a flexible pipe, i do not like them and avoid them if i can. i prefer to use solid glued pipe and 45% fitting. ( Or a 90% elbow and come at from the side. )

If that is what is required then you need to extend the waste pipe out with a 1 1/2 inch coupling to the distance needed to come into it from the 45% angle, on the end of this pipe you put the 45% fitting then  another short section  1 1/2 pipe and the adapter glued on to that so you can run the p trap pipe into it.
( try to make this short section of pipe long enough so that if in the future you have to cut it to make changes you have enough to glue a new fitting to. )
 Dry fit everything, this will take some thought and planning, since the p trap is swing-able you have some leeway for the waste pipe extension. Make all your cuts and dry fit it all together BEFORE YOU GLUE. If the distance from the p trap to waste pipe extension is to great you can buy a slip joint extension to bridge the distance. It works on the same compression principle and you cut it to the proper length.

BE AWARE : when you dry fit you can not get as tight a fit as when you glue I.E. When you glue the distance will change slightly because the pipes and fittings will slide further onto/into one another. I try to account for this when i make my cuts but because the p trap swings you have some wiggle room.

There are many angles here and therefor more than one way to skin this cat. Try to keep the number of turns that the water has to make to a minimum to insure a better flow. I find it is better to buy all the fittings and pipe i might possible need and take back what i do not use to avoid multiple trips to the store.


How do I convert an old model propane fireplace to natural gas?

The conversion kit usually consists of a different sized orifice to handle the LP fuel. I had to do this on my outdoor grill when I converted from LP to NG.


How many vent stacks should a house have?

Most homes will merge the vent pipes as they go up the walls so that you only have one vent exiting the roof. All vents need to slope upwards, so the guest house couldn't run the vent underground to use the vent stack in your home.

That said, if you notice that drain lines are gurgling after the water goes down (indicating suction) or are slow to drain but have no clogs (indicating it's trying to overcome the air pressure in the lines) then there may be a blockage in the vent or it may not be properly installed.

Note that for some situations, you can also have an air admittance valve to provide a one way vent (fresh air can get sucked in, but sewer gases cannot escape), which allows you to vent plumbing in a kitchen island or other location that cannot go up and out the roof.

For the odd smell, it's difficult to diagnose over the internet, but it could be a dry trap, a failed wax seal under the toilet, or a dead animal in an exhaust vent or inside a wall.


Replacing a Honeywell Thermostat with a remote thermostat

Many thermostats make light(er) work

What you want isn't a single central thermostat.  On the contrary, a key principle of proper building control is that parameters in a zone should be controlled by a controller in that zone, reading sensors local to said zone, and driving devices that control nothing besides that zone.

This means that the devices you want to install are individual thermostats, but with networked supervisory capability -- i.e. the ability to set the temperature and scheduling over a local network from a central point.  This sort of use-case is where networked thermostats (there are several out there) excel; however, many of them are designed for more traditional 24VAC control systems used with furnaces and heat-pumps, not the line-voltage system used with electric wall and baseboard heaters like yours.

There are a couple of networkable line-voltage thermostats out there; most notably at the time of this post, Honeywell makes one for their proprietary RedLink wireless automation system (albeit without any type of API integration) and Casa makes the WiFi based Caleo.  In addition, existing low-voltage thermostats such as the Nest can be used with line-voltage systems using a relay transformer combo such as the Honeywell RC840T or equivalent, although the RC840T's transformer may not provide enough power for some networked thermostats (such as the Nest).

Whatever system you go with, though, make sure you secure it from outside network access!


Fast flickering LED kitchen light fixture

It's the electronic driver, no doubt of it.
I couldn't quite read the numbers on it.  But it's calling out a very exact current flow (I underlined in red).... and a general/wide working voltage range (underlined in blue).

If you can find a driver module that same size, you can swap 'em out.  Current is the critical factor; it must be exact.  If you find drivers that aren't quite in that voltage range, you can carefully scrape the insulation off the 2 wires where I point to in green, and measure the lamp's actual working voltage with a voltmeter (while it's lit normally).  Your driver needs to support that voltage and 3-5 volts on either side.
My usual source for drivers is Mouser.com, and they have a search engine to let you narrow by current and voltage.  However a quick look showed a quality Meanwell unit, but it wasn't that shape (form factor).  Alibaba/AliExpress.com is awash with driver circuits of that exact form factor, in the $1 to $3 range, and ePacket delivery from China is cheap.  The downside of course is you're getting cheap Cheese junk, and it won't last any longer than the last one.

Speaking of that... There are several Chinese dumpers who are absolutely flooding Amazon with junk.  The dumpers have certain patterns: Amazon Marketplace ("Sold by XXX and Fulfilled by Amazon" right under the "Buy" button), no UL Listing nor any other reliable testing lab (CE, ROHS, LVD and EMC are not a testing lab), the brand sounds weird and doesn't have a normal marketing/support/jobs website, the brand is fairly new, etc.
Their typical business model is they find super cheap stuff on Alibaba/AliExpress, have the manufacturer  put them in boxes labeled for Amazon fulfillment, ship them straight from China to the Amazon warehouse, create a listing with price just a little below quality units, then sell a few units to shills who then write the early fake reviews.  People get suckered in either because the product description is competent or they don't realize Amazon Marketplace is a flea market of junk.

At first I thought this was a dumper I call "Ikea Guy" (because he has hundreds of fake brands that sound like items in the Ikea catalog).  But now I'm not so sure, because I see non-Amazon sellers also selling them under that brand. They may just have a funny name and be fairly new.   Just be careful; products from those dumpers are the bottom of the barrel and simply will not last.  The 18 month experience is consistent with the dumped junk.
That's been my experience too.  I once bought a 10W LED security light for $10 from a dumper, and a $15 one from LEDWholesalers, who is an importer. Both Chinese of course but you could tell the latter was much better made.  The no-name one went out after a year. The other is still going after 6 years.


No C wire connection on old Goodman furnace

Yes, you'll connect to any of the blue wires coming from the transformer.

If there's an empty terminal on the transformer, connect there. If not, you might be able to use a piggyback spade connector.

Otherwise, connecting at the point of grounding would be the next easiest location.


Can I install tiles directly over a concrete floor in my basement?

I don't see why not.

It would be worth sealing the concrete to make it waterproof where you are going to tile, particularly as you are making a bathroom and laundry room where there'll be a high risk of water spillage.


New water heater and expansion tank - low pressure

The new tank may have been piped wrong, and restriction may have been introduced. Did the plumber reduce the pipe sizes in and out of the tank. The new tank will supply the same amount of hot water as the tank you re[laced. The expansion tank is not the problem. Something has changed, you have to find out what.


Extra powerful boiler short-cycling and overfilling

I have to ask, "who sized the replacement boiler". An oversized boiler will have numerous operating problems and you are witnessing a few of those problems.
The input of the boiler or as you say "powerful" has little to do with why the boiler water line falls when the boiler fires. The "near boiler piping", the system piping , the water quality and to a lesser degree the size of the boiler are causing the problems. Was this boiler installed by a licensed boiler installer? Did he flush out the boiler to get rid of the oils and debris that is in the boiler when installed? Is it piped as per the MFG installation booklet? What is the operating pressure on this system? If you have vents on each radiator then you should have a 1 pipe steam system. What controls are installed on the boiler? Has the gas input been set and checked?
Take a few pictures of the boiler and it's piping. Show the size of the piping leaving the boiler and how it is piped. Include pictures of a couple radiators. Oh yes, do not overfill the boiler and I will be interested to see the pictures of the system.
Adding to my answer; if you search for "Arco cast iron radiators (1959)" you should come up with a pamphlet on the size of Arco rads that you can utilize for the heat requirements for your radiators. Even if your rads are not American radiator company rads (arco) you can still utilize this chart since the output will only be a little more or less for another companies rads.
To check the boilers input, it can be done if the boiler will fire long enough to read your gas meter for 1 minute.  With the boiler firing it should use 2.3 cu ft of gas per minute. Your boilers input is 138,000 BTU/hour and natural gas has about 1000 btu/cu ft. So, 1000 btu/cu ft X 2.3 cu ft X 60  minutes  = 138,000 BTU/hour. If the input is too high then you need to get a boiler guy or an HVAC person to adjust the gas input.
Take a picture or 2 of a radiator and post it. Also, the boiler may be oversized but I believe that the boiler needs to be cleaned and skimmed by a professional boiler person. By the way, in what city are you located?


How good of a vapor barrier is OSB in a dirt crawlspace?

Moisture barriers are not a water tight seal kind of thing.

If you cover 75% of the dirt then you should reduce the mustiness by about that much.

Anything will probably be an improvement and if is not good enough you could paint the OSB floor to add some moisture barrier. However, this could possibly reduce the life of the OSB since it can't breath as well.

Good luck!


What is causing/caused these brown circular stains in my cabinetry?

I'm pretty sure this is bleed-through of knots from underneath the paint. They have the shape of knots, and it looks like what you get when that happens.

If you want to be dead positive (or don't believe me) the only real solution is a scraper. Yes, its a bit on the nuclear side, but it will prove the existence of a knot underneath. Scrape off the paint in that area of wood. Pick an obscure spot to do so. Bring it down to bare wood, and you should see a knot underneath. Since the answer is to use a product like Kilz anyway to intercept the stain from bleeding through again, having to repaint that small area is no real issue.

Why can't you just paint over it? Well, you can, and for a time it will look like it worked, but the stain will come through regular paint. So you need something that a stain can't bleed through. In the old days, one might have used shellac as a stain killer, in fact, I think some stain killer products were based on shellac.


There are only two issues that are required to be changed and are NOT covered by any “grandfathered clause”: 1) smoke detectors for sleeping rooms, and 2) safety glass within 18” of a floor (ICC R308.4.3) or 24” of a door (R308.4.2)

The Code says “safety glass”, not cover plate glass with film.

Look near the corners of the glass to see if there is an inscription indicating it’s tempered glass or laminated safety glass (like what’s in cars).  If none, then it’s not safety glass.


You can get pretty close.

"...looks like a wall switch but without wires behind..." Assuming here that your looking for the standard TOGGLE light switch, then you're not likely going to find the exact product.

If Decora or paddle style wall switch is acceptable, then replace both existing 3 way ends with this or this (the difference is the first is on/off only, the second also Dims- choose the dimmer if the hall light is dimming compatible).

For the middle location choose this wireless switch plus a mounting bracket and any standard Decora or paddle switch wall plate.

Initial set-up (specifically linking) is slightly confusing if you've never before used Insteon products, wiring is however straight-forward.  Insteon (also known as smarthome.com) does have good phone support (although their phone system produces horrible call quality-if that happens ask the support person to call you back as calls in that direction don't seem to be affected).

You also need a standard USB cable and perhaps an adapter to charge the wireless switch. (the middle switch will only need charging a few times a year). Honestly you likely already have this standard USB cable, it's pretty standard and the same used to connect most camera's and non-apple phones to a computer or charger.   (I put smarthome.com links for the last two because those two items appear to cost much more when purchased via amazon.)

Disclaimer: I do NOT work for Insteon/Smarthome.com. I do work for a company that has a sales/installation agreement with Instean/Smarthome.


What kind of smart lock can I add to my door?

Yes it does seem that they are available.

That is a Mortise lock-set, I did a web search for "smart mortise lock" and found a couple, the question is weather they will fit your particular set up ( and can you afford one ).

You will need to do some research. Most of the ones i see are set up with the latch on the bottom and the bolt on the top but yours is opposite that.

Now go forth and conquer.

If you live in a big city find a dedicated locksmith/lock-set retailer.


How to re-attach kitchen cabinet laminate?

Many years ago, I worked for Formica.  I can give the advice that worked at the time.

Firstly, try to remove the set glue if at all possible.  This is easier said than done if only the edges are unstuck.  You will have to get something flat between the laminate and the wood.

Secondly, use an epoxy-based glue, like Evo-stik or Bostick.  Not the sort where you have to mix two components and not wood glue.  Smear this under the edges, getting as far in as possible.

Thirdly, apply pressure.  If you can place a protective piece of wood to either side of the door and use G-clamps to hold them in place then the pressure will help the glue to stick.  Leave the clamps on for about 24 hours.  Pressure is more effective than heat.


Since the problem does not happen with other appliances, it sounds like this is a problem with this one circuit. You have already swapped the breaker, so that leaves:

Wire
If this is 14AWG wire/15A circuit, try a 20A circuit (which should be 12AWG wire) if you have one available. That should help generally with voltage drop, but NOT with any fizzing and crackling.

Receptacle
The receptacle itself could be bad, and is easy to replace. But more commonly it isn't actually bad but rather has bad connections.

Connections
This is the most likely source of the problem. A bad connection (typically a back stab connection, but can also happen with a screw connection that is coming apart) can cause voltage drop (due to less wire connected than there should be, making that connection a limiting factor in the circuit) as well as other more serious problems (fizzing & crackling are not just noises).

Get this fixed before you have a fire!
This is a classic case for AFCI - Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters. They are required in many circuits now but not required in old circuits unless you change things. However, they are also typically not required in kitchens because there the emphasis is on GFCI. In any case, an AFCI "listens" for the type of problems you describe due to bad connections, frayed insulation and other problems.
I would start with the receptacle. I would put in a GFCI unless the circuit is already protected by a GFCI elsewhere (in which case I would install a new regular receptacle). Don't use the back stab connections. Strip a little (not too much - don't want to cut off too much of the wire) fresh wire if there is any sign of damage - pitting, burn marks, etc. - and connect the new receptacle. If that doesn't solve the problem, check and reconnect/replace any other receptacles on the same circuit. If that doesn't solve the problem then you may have a wiring problem inside your walls which would generally require professional help.


It probably has wings with framing nails in them, like this:

You can either try sliding a saw through the gap outside the box and cutting the wings off, or you can cut up and remove the box a piece at a time. That's more difficult with plastic than with fiber, so be prepared for a battle. A rotary tool with a spiral cutter would work well.

If you're patching the drywall anyway, just put a block of wood in the box and drive it upward with a hammer.


changed taps and now there's no hot water

Odds seem high that you didn't actually turn the water back on correctly, since the taps in the bath were what you worked on and the kitchen now doesn't get water which cannot be caused by the bath taps - but can be caused by not opening valves after closing them to work on the bath taps. Impossible to provide any more specific hint from afar, but follow the waterlines and recheck all the valves.

I suppose if the new taps were soldered on and you really went overboard with excess solder you might have plugged the pipes, but that's really reaching for a cause (i.e., seems not very likely .vs. just closing a valve you thought you were opening, or the like.)


Portable AC leaking water....how to locate problem?

Pull off the back. It serves as a grilled vent so critters don't crawl in there. The unit will work fine. Look for a pan right under the cooling coils and then look for some hole in the pan that would allow it to drain into the collection container. There could be a hose that disintegrated or maybe the hole just got plugged up. Don't forget, the unit has to be level for it to drain properly.


Freezer keeps icing all over everything!

I think you're on the right track: that ice is coming from the humidity in leaking air.  Check your gasket carefully.


Can a sink drain into a shower venting pipe?

I wanted a utility sink installed on the common wall of our garage and house. There was a vertical vent inside the wall near a bathroom and near the washer/dryer alcove. The plumber plumbed the drain into that vent saying that this was allowed by code if done in the right way. I didn't understand what would make it code compliant and would make it work properly, but he put it in and it has worked for 20 years.


How can I remove exhaust pipe cover that's sealed with silicone?

For starters, you should be able to unclip the inner square (with the louvres in it) from the surround. That should get you better access to the inside.

After that, I've found a knife works best.


Should I put a moisture barrier under tile on a basement floor?

There are waterproofing/isolation membranes that can be painted on such as RedGuard and Mapelastic. They're coatings you paint on.

Much cheaper and easier to use than sheet style barriers. The sheet membranes like ditra provide better waterproofing and isolation to prevent cracks which are important in areas with a lot of moisture like showers or slabs with cracks.

Years ago when I tiled my basement with porcelain tile I used a penetrating concrete sealer that you just spray on. Haven't had any problems.


How to maintain temp for always cold office in finished Basement

The room in question is fairly large and has several heat loss factors. Not withstanding the fact that the room sits on the cold basement floor, has large windows etc., the main problem is that the temp in the room is not thermostatically controlled properly. The only thermostat and heat zone is on the main floor and controls heat based on temps in the main living space. Your typically closed bedrooms and lower level rooms will never heat or cool at the same temps as the room the thermostat is monitoring. If you really want to have accurate temp control, it may be necessary to install zones. One zone for open living areas (kitchen, dining, living spaces) , a zone for bedrooms, and a separate zone for the office level. Without separate zones, you cannot monitor and adjust temps in the areas isolated from the living space.


Painting new boards installed on old front porch

In my humble opinion, I'd wait for the new wood to dry out and then pressure clean everything. There will be some seepage/residue from the pressure treated wood that you'll want to remove before painting, plus, it will get dirty while drying. Same with the floor, if you pressure clean it now, it will get dirty while the new wood is drying out. After pressure cleaning, wait until both woods are completely dry before painting.

Get your new and beautiful paint now and follow any additional instructions that are included with it.


20A GFCI questions regarding LOAD terminal

First, a GFCI outlet (or the GFCI portion of a GFCI breaker) does not limit current. That's the job of the breaker.

The functional portion of the receptacle itself is rated 15A (doesn't have the crossbar on the neutral blade slot), but the passthrough is rated for 20A. This is because you can actually use it on a 20A circuit since any device requiring 20A should have a plug that prevents it from being used in a 15A receptacle.

Here's a 20A receptacle:


Remove trim.
Remove door casing.
Remove drywall around jack studs (2x4 closest to door opening on each side) and pretty much all the way up to the ceiling.  Stop if you have roofing structure above your door - keep going if you don't.
Pull out jack studs (you could just extend them with a piece of 2x4 on non load bearing walls)
Push up header to desired height.  You will have to take out the cripples (small 2x4s) above the header.  I don't think the door in your picture is going up a foot with that trim.
Put in new longer jack studs on each side.
Install new, longer door.
Drywall, mud, tape, all that good stuff - this might take the longest.
Install new, longer trim.  You could use old trim if you could find some casing that will fit on the bottom corners and if door is same width.


Yes, what you say looks right. This work is competent.  The white wire was brought up to supply the fan, not for the neutral rule.

Get my secret weapon, a 5-pack of nulticolored electrical tape.  By happy accident, every wire is correctly color coded but one.

white is neutral
lower cable black is always hot
lower cable red is switched hot 1 (for the outlets)
upper cable black is switched hot 2 for the fan, mark it with blue tape
upper cable red is spare, tag it some other color e.g. Yellow

Of course you know the bare ground wire does not go to the same terminal as a hot...


What is the significance that "no blade is involved" in threading pipe?

When pipe is cut with a blade it can result in material debris and/or metal filings or oxides inside the pipe.

This is equivalent to dangerous sediments or solids in a gas line which can damage or clog equipment. Pipes cut  with a blade will likely need to be cleaned and/or flushed before use. Imagine PVC filings clogging a sprinkler head.

Using something like a wheel or die should not pollute the pipe interior.


We had this problem and it turned out to be the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse helps prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it gets too hot. If the clothes dryer will not start, examine this fuse. This is the most typical part to fail when the dryer won't work.


Drywall or cement board in gap between bathtub and corner

The spot next to the tub is a trouble area. I have found that the more robust the wall material is (i.e. less porous, harder) the longer it will last without water damage, that is why I tiled that area next to my tub.

"...should I use cement board or dry wall?"

I recommend cement board. Furthermore, I encourage you to use a harder plaster material (instead of joint compound) such as a "setting-type" plaster (e.g. water putty, "fixall", plaster of paris, etc.) as the base coat on top of the cement board and at the joint.
Setting-type plasters are a bit hard to work with because they have a short working time, they set hard, and are difficult to sand or smooth after they set. However, hard plaster as a substrate to normal joint compound should help prevent structural damage in case of water contact over time. NOTE- all plaster is porous, but hard plater is less porous. Use joint compound as the final coat so you can sand it flat and smooth, use a high quality paint with a gloss, and caulk well.


Should I replace bathroom OSB subfloor with plywood?

OSB was an idea introduced in the late 1970s and caught fire in the 1980s.  After a few decades of use, compared to plywood, OSB just does not hold up as well. You would have thought wood manufacturers would have learned from manufacturers of plastics, and moved toward fiber-mat combination for strength and durability... guess not.

I have observed plywood homes which have solid (but squeaky) sub floors which are several decades old and still in excellent shape.  On the other hand I have observed sub floors which are OSB and just a few years old and crumbling into their original configuration (saw dust).

Environmentalist may very well like OSB but for wet applications, its not desirable.  In wet applications mold, mildew and rot are the constant battle. Bathrooms in homes are just not configured to deal with these issues, Bathrooms in residential construction don't disperse water/humidity from the air, and usually have very little air movement, most being tied to only one register outlet of the central air system.  It helps if one keeps their central air system fan in constant "on" mode as opposed to allowing it to cycle off.


You could paint it white without covering the walls, and solve both the dark and potential permitting issues with the other approach. Paint is generally free of permitting needs (so long as you source it locally so it's VOC legal for California/LA air pollution issues, I suppose from afar.)

Permit/code issues would better be addressed by a local - as an interior low-cost project that doesn't change any doorways/windows, or add a structure to the property, it would probably be fine without a permit here. Cities tend to be a bit more irritating and/or want more pounds of flesh, so I'd guess you might well be in need of a permit given that you are in a big one. When in doubt, ask, as the consequences for doing without are usually a lot harsher than the hoops to jump through to get one. And you might actually find that you don't need one - but that's a local jurisdiction having authority issue, not something the internet can reliably answer for you.

Material-wise will depend on your local bug population and why the INSIDE of your carport (with walls, so presumably not a "roof-only, classic" carport, thus creeping closer to a garage) is subject to moisture damage. You might want to use something like tile backer board (Durock, Hardibacker, etc.) for the bottom 3 feet (it comes in 3x5 sheets) as being pretty much immune to bug and water damage. If it gets wet higher than that, either stick with the same product or choose an exterior-rated plywood. Tile backer is also nicely fire-resistant. If it's dry inside, drywall should be fine, as it is in many garages. A picture might help.


How can I figure out why my undersink water filter system is clogged?

If the filters are the twist-lock type (o-ring that tightens with a 1/4-turn)  they may not be fully seated into the filter port. Remove the filters and re-install them making sure to apply enough upward pressure to fully seat the filter. BTW: the Aqua-Pure web page will have this filter. Here is the link:  http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Aqua-Pure-Under-Sink-Water-Filtration-System-Model-AP-DWS1000-1-per-case-5583101?N=5002385+8709316+8709366+8710655+8710937+8711017+8711350+3294748997&rt=rud


What bathroom vents/ceiling/roof vents and fans are most recommended?

You can get a powered attic vent that would install directly into the roof.

But, It might be cheaper to get a bathroom vent, suspend it from the ceiling (like a garage door opener) and run a 3 or 4 inch pipe out under the eaves.

What are you using the cabin for the rest of the year?


Short circuited an AC outlet. After resetting breaker, outlets wires have no current

Case 1

If you had a short circuit that popped the circuit breaker and then when reset there is no power I would begin to suspect that a wire connection has become unreliable due to the current surge of the short circuit.

The most likely thing that could be a problem here is if one or more of the wire connections in the circuit consists of the the poke in style terminations. This type of connection is notoriously unreliable. When the wire is inserted a spring tension of a bent piece of metal is all the holds the wire in place.

Over time the string can get weak due to temperature cycling that happens when the contact is asked to deliver relatively high current alternately with relatively low or no current. It is possible that the very high current surge of the short circuit has led to a failure of an already marginal contact.

So I suggest that you check all the outlets on that circuit and see if they are using the poke in style terminations. If so replace all of those with the better quality outlets that have screw terminal terminations for the wires. Some of these will use a wire bent in a loop under the screw head and others may have a clamp device that you insert a straight wire into and then tighten with the screw.

Case 2

Another possibility is that the outlet in question is wired down wind of a GFCI unit that has tripped due to the circuit imbalance in the HOT and NEUTRAL wires when the short of the HOT to the electrical box occurred.

In this case you will have to study the circuit layout to see if there is a GFCI in the circuit someplace.


120V on hot and neutral wires… just started happening

Current flows in loops

Remember, current flows in loops. It's not like air, where you have the "hot" compressed air lines coming off the compressor, and there is no air return, it just dumps air wherever.  With electricity there must be 2 wires to complete the loop, and both are equally important!  We make all the fuss about the hot wire, but neutral is an equal partner in the deal.  Just an often-overlooked one!

So if your hot wire had broken, you'd have sussed that out in a minute.  Now you must "think upside-down" and look for the neutral wire break.

Part of your confusion is "phantom voltage". An isolated wire (disconnected at both ends) will pick up stray electrons due to capacitive coupling from hot wires nearby (i.e. in the same cable).  A hi-impedance (any cheap digital) voltmeter will see those electrons as an actual measurable voltage, even though they're not.  You've been spending way too many brain cells chasing that phantom, so let's nip it in the bud by removing the high impedance.

Kill the phantom

Start by plugging a load into a dead outlet and turn it on - preferably something tiny; an incandescent night-light is perfect.  This will connect hot to neutral (through the medium resistance of the load), and if neutral is disconnected, that will instantly yank it up to 120V. Goodbye phantom voltage.  You were seeing that earlier, until you unplugged your (I'll guess) toothbrush charger.  Plug something back in.  This will suppress phantom voltage.

Now you can troubleshoot upside-down: if you measure neutral and it rings out "hot", that means you're afield of the wire break.  If you measure neutral and it rings out 0V, that means you're on the panel side of the wire break.

I suspect the problem may be -- are you sitting down? -- at the neutral bar of the panel.

Speaking of "Panel"

That is the dreaded Rule of Six panel.  It also looks VERY full. All such panels are a serious hazard, because as you may notice, the 6 breakers sum up to way more than your service, and there's no master disconnect.

Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, it's Square D QO, which is absolutely top shelf. Great panel. If only there was a way to keep it!

A year ago, I would have walked you through converting it to a "Rule of One" :) panel by adding a subpanel.  But then, NEC 2020 dropped.  NEC 2020 requires an outside disconnect switch on every new service, reasonably near the meter.  So now, my advice is to wait and see what this requirement does to equipment prices, and then, as soon as feasible, either add an outside disconnect which is also a breaker at service amperage (e.g. 100A if that's your service)... or replace your meter box with a meter-main which combines both.  That permanently cures the problem with Rule of Six panels, and it may continue in service forever with no concern.  And your QO panel is very high quality stuff, so you keep benefiting from that.


Does low voltage cables cause interference against parallel cat5/6 ethernet cables

What bothers electronic signals is oscillating magnetic fields.  DC power cables create an unchanging magnetic field like a refrigerator magnet.

However, if you are hauling 5 volts DC across a house, that's probably a mistake unless you are using huge wire.  Voltage drop will kill you...


Mystery pipes in basement - where do they go?

Thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! Turns out I was able to get a clear answer by calling the sewer company:

1) They looked at their recent scopes and confirmed that our property does indeed have two sewer laterals. They also observed some corrosion and decided to come out and take a look.

2) They brought a truck out to our house and performed a sewer scope - entering from the manhole immediately downstream and running upstream to where our laterals connects to the main line.

3) They then had me run water from every fixture in the house, one after the other. Turns out that all fixtures run to one lateral, confirming that our basement pipes do indeed tie into it somewhere out in the yard. The sewer guys theorized that what the inspector mistook for an exterior cleanout was actually the basement pipes tying in! Our second lateral is "inactive," but is likely an old stormwater drain for our back patio...which may or may not be legal.

Thanks again for the suggestions. Glad we got this mystery figured out! Now to determine how old this place is (we have aerial photos proving the home was there prior to the build date on tax records)...


How would the filament tube of a typical incandescent lightbulb shatter without the filament burning out?

The only thing that would fracture glass other than a defect would be a severe or extreme temperature change that would change the expansion of the glass unevenly. Look for dripping water or oil or something making contact with the lamp in a single area.

Good luck


Absolutely add a vent above the door's HEIGHT (explained at the end) instead or on the ceiling. If the hallway connects to other rooms, then add vents to them too. This would turn the entire hallway into a return duct of negative pressure & should've been done PROPERLY from the start.

Meaning, the vent should NOT be a hole straight through both sides of the wall. The vent on either side of the wall should be offset from each other by a minimum of 4-feet, for soundproofing or privacy. YOU (being the one stuck with the dilemma) would drill holes through wall studs or the wall's top-plate stud to "connect" the inner & outer vents.


What should I use to transition from tiles to hard wood floor?

You want to look for pieces called hardwood flooring transitions. They can either be "T" pieces, reducers, or threshold pieces. Here are some examples:


Installing cardboard deflectors (baffles) in attic

The baffles should go in between the rafters against the inside of the roof boards. They should extend from the lower soffit end, centered between the rafters, as far up as you expect the insulation to fill in.

Your description about the existing fiberglass insulation batts seems to imply that these are installed between the attic rafters. If that is indeed the case I guess you would have to remove those before installing the baffles. If those batts are currently installed all the way up to the top of the rafters then you should remove some of that so that the upper end of your baffles are open to the cold air space where the air above the added cellulose insulation can circulate and travel out through your roof vents, gable vents and/or ridge vents.

The whole idea of the baffles is to allow for there to be a free path for air to pass from the soffit (which should have adequate vents itself) up along under the roof material and pass out through the upper area vents as described above.


What are the advantages and disadvantages of nails and dowel pins?

If you are looking for strong, long lasting, high quality work that looks professionally done, then nails are not the solution I'd ever choose for joinery of this sort.

Nails work well between a pair of 2x4s when you are framing a wall, but that is where I stop using them. If you are expecting finishing nails to hold any serious load, don't. That does not say that finishing nails have no purpose. They can work nicely to hold together a joint while the glue dries - no clamps need apply! But even so, butt joints with glue (and a few light nails) are simply not very strong. It won't hold up over a few years. (Yes, I'll admit that I have never UNDER-engineered my work.)

So, the next step up might be rabbet joints, glued and nailed. Again, with nails or not, they simply won't offer strong, long lasting joints. In the right place, a rabbet can be the right joint.

Dado joints (a groove that fully encases the matching wood) will be strong, and will support a serious amount of weight. These offer a good solution, IF you have the tools to cut one, so either a router or a dado blade for a table saw. But a dado joint is not always an option.

Butt joints with dowels can work, but it will be somewhat slow to do. You need to be accurate in lining up the holes, so a good jig will be important, and know how to use it.

Personally, I like biscuit joinery. It helps to have a biscuit joiner to cut the slots, but a router could do the job in a pinch. It is strong, works well enough with plywood, easy enough to do. Biscuits will be far easier to use and install compared to dowels, because they allow for a bit of slop in the slots.

The last option I'll throw out is pocket screw joinery. It creates quite a strong joint, even with plywood. They are easy to line up, since you drill the holes with the wood mated together. The screws draw the mating pieces together tightly, resulting in a good looking joint. You can build very high quality case work with these joints, however, you generally want to be careful to keep the screw heads hidden. The cost is not too high for a screw jig, and then all it takes is an electric drill.

Either of these latter two options would be my preference. They will be significantly faster to do than dowels, but dowels (if done well) can offer a strong, serviceable joint.

The point of all this is it depends on how strong, how professional a job you want to do here. Are you willing to invest a few dollars into a piece of equipment (i.e., dowel jig, biscuit joiner, pocket screw jig?)


What material can I put along a sharp, thin metal edge?

I second Nate's comment that folding the edges is your best bet - it'll give you a small, slightly rounded edge, instead of a sharp edge, and it will stiffen your panel. The drawback is that you probably need a sheet-metal brake to make this happen in anything resembling a neat, time efficient fashion, especially for 200 copies.
This is a small portable brake, bigger counter top & freestanding models are also available:
Image courtesy of HarborFreight.com. No endorsement implied. However, for your one-time use, this one may be right up your alley, so the endorsement is, basically, intended.
If, for whatever reason, you cannot get your hands on a small brake and can't find a local shop that'll do it for you, I'd suggest some clear rubber hose, something like refrigerator line. You can buy whatever diameter best suits your needs, then "just" run a slit down the length of the tube and slide your sheet metal in.
I say "just" because this will be time consuming, but it shouldn't be difficult. A sharp utility knife will easily cut the tubing to length, then will also allow you to slit it. It shouldn't matter too much if your cut wanders a bit (i.e. doesn't go straight down the length of the tube), as the tube itself will happily twist to line up the slit with the edge of the sheet metal.
The tubing is cheap enough that you can buy enough for a couple of trials to see if it will work for you, and you won't be out much if it doesn't.


I'm guessing the valve assembly inside the toilet is finding a resonance when it's just about to close. You can replace it, and it's not too difficult of a DIY job. They sell just the valves:

But if you're going to take it apart to replace the valve, I tend to buy the full kit and replace all the guts.

Note that when my toilets started to leak, it was because of high pressure in the water lines. So it wouldn't hurt to pickup a pressure gauge that screws onto a hose faucet to make sure you don't have a bigger issue. After I fixed one, another would start leaking next as the pressure got a little higher.


How to remove smell from exposed plywood Bathroom cabinets

The best option if you're going with paint is a synthetic shellac primer, which provides an odor barrier without the cost of natural shellac. Shellac is widely used in refinishing furniture to prevent nasty odors like pets and cigarette smoke.


Convert pair of 3-way switches to a one single-pole with neutral

I can't vouch for code, but that's certainly something I would expect would meet code -- you're just using the first switchbox as an unswitched junction box (which should be legitimate), and Red is being used correctly as second/switched hot.

Then of course your smart switch in the other box connects between black and red, with white used as the neutral for its electronics and otherwise not going anywhere.

Assuming you make the connections properly, and unless I'm missing something....

Quick point: Remember that junction boxes must be accessible for service, so you can't plaster over that repurposed switchbox. You can cover it with a blank plate painted/papered to match the wall, hang art over it, put freestanding furniture in front of it, or a combination of these... but an electrician has to be able to find it and open it up without having to break into the wall.

(Thanks for making me think this through, by the way. I have several two-way circuits, and I too have plans for home automation eventually. Unfortunately I think I have to wait until most of these non-dimmable CFLs burn out and I can replace them with dimmable LEDs.)


How to bring up cable for an electrical outlet from floor to wall without access to the inside of the wall?

I would use conduit for the run up from the floor

I would run a piece of EMT conduit myself, with a surface mount "handy box" to house the receptacle and a metal old work box with the conduit extending out a KO in its back for holding the junction between the 12AWG stranded THHNs in the conduit and the solid wires of the 12/2 NM-B that is the homerun for this circuit.  You'll need a strain-relief cable-clamp in the KO the NM enters the old work box at; inside the box, it's a simple matter of hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and ground to the box ground screw.  The receptacle wires up normally (hot to brass, neutral to silver), save for being grounded via its yoke instead of a ground wire as it's in a metal box attached to grounded metal conduit.  Drywall anchors can be used for mounting the conduit straps and handy box in this case, by the way.


IKEA recessed lights: extreme clearance requirements?

I personally would abandon them for something with better requirements - there's a reason that IKEA stuff is low in price, and that reason is compromises. For instance, the GORM shelving units are strong and flexible, but take a while to assemble and are kinda ugly.

In this case it looks like the compromise is the required spacing. My guess is that the heat load they produce (especially the temperature of the fixture itself) is high enough that they need the extra space to cool (a different, more expensive, fixture might have some other way to ditch the heat that would require less space).

That said, any engineer worth his salt (and his lawyer) isn't going to skimp on the required spacing. It's very likely that you could get away with shaving a few inches off of it, but there are no guarantees if you start violating the spacing requirements.

The biggest worry in my mind would be that if something went wrong (even if it had nothing to do with these fixtures), the insurance company would balk because these fixtures were installed 'improperly'.


Are turnbuckles required for cable railing?

When installing that way you will not be able to get maximal tension because you need some space to apply the crimps.

Also over time the cable will stretch. This means that you will need to retighten the cable a few times. That is impossible if you crimped the ends.


Alternative for one-way sheet metal screw?

Round-head wood screw

OR

Truss- or pan-head sheet metal screw

Either one will work fine. The stresses on that screw would likely be minimal and would be tensile rather than shear, so use whichever one is easiest to find in a 3/16" (#10) diameter with a head that fits through the outer hole.


What is this rotating pipe adapter called

The fitting on the right side of the assembly in your picture is a union, it lets you make a threaded connection without spinning the whole assembly.  It's not just handy, it's essential because it lets you make a threaded connection where you cut into an existing system or when you're making complex assemblies that can't be built by spinning the pieces on sequentially one by one.


How much of a shed can be framed using 2x4 lumber?

You can frame a whole house with nothing but 2x4, but it's easier to do a shed, as you won't need engineering, probably.

The secret word is truss. You can use them for roof, floor and even wall framing, but few sheds will need trusses for walls. While you certainly could get the whole thing engineered, you can probably just copy a standard truss design and come out strong enough, if you pay attention to things like which side is up. It's a shed, so the world won't end if you get it wrong, but it's not hard to get right enough at the usual scale that's called shed. You can also build up to a certain size/loading (those interact) without making trusses, unless you have an overbearing local jurisdiction. Storing a push mower and some garden tools is different than parking a big riding mower and 15 tool boxes of wrenches...

A table in a farm construction book I happen to have ( Mechanics in Agriculture, by Lloyd Phipps) lists rafter spans for dressed 2x4's in various species ranging from 5 feet 9 inches in the weakest species group (being basswood and cottonwood, unlikely) on 24" centers to 10 feet 11 inches in the strongest species group on 12" centers.

The admittedly engineered and not home-built trusses on my shop span 24 feet on 2 foot centers and are entirely made of 2x4's.


What kind of bulb should I use for a recessed can?

I have those exact cans and they are adjustable. Take out the bulb and remove the trim.  Inside you will see two or three wing nuts. Loosen these and raise the level of base to the desired location.  If the base is raised all the way up, then indeed your bulbs are too long for the trim you have selected.

Also note that every trim adds a different depth as well.  Trims like eyeball sockets are much deeper and may solve your problem.  I suspect yours is a flush mount one, and thus the distance to the base is shorter.


Do nice water pump pressure switches exist?

If you look around online, you'll find a huge array of products for pump control but I think you're right, there's really just the Flowtrol / Square D or very similar products available at low cost for home use.

(By the way, good for you insisting on a UL listed product from a trustworthy, reputable source.)

If I understand your question, your problem is you occasionally have to use the tiny little override switch to get the pump to start after pressure drops below the low threshold, probably after a power outage.

You could wire a manual override switch to bypass the pressure switch, but I'd hesitate to do this.  This would ideally be a double pole, single throw switch, horsepower rated for the pump's voltage and load, in a standard switch form factor so you could mount it in a regular electrical box.  That's definitely not an easy to find hardware store / big box item, but the major manufacturers make this kind of switch in their industrial product lines.  I'd want a momentary switch so that you can't accidentally leave it on, which could overpressurize the system, run the pump dry and burn it up, etc.

The reason I'd hesitate is because I don't know if this would override some other protection that is built into that simple looking Flowtrol switch.  For example, it might limit the override action so that it stops the pump when you reach the upper pressure limit, preventing the pump from over-pressurizing the system.

If you shop the industrial pump / control products, I am sure you can get what you want, or at worst build it, but for a suitable product UL listed and approved for potable water, the cost would probably be prohibitive.  That's how pumps are controlled in industry, but it's EXPENSIVE.