What does the 16" in "16-Inch Full Ext Drawer" refer to?

It means the slide is 16" long and that you can pull your drawer out a full 16" relative to the slide.  If your cabinet space was 20" deep, and you mounted this all the way at the back then your drawer would not come out 16" but instead 16-4=12".


How to repair buckled duct work inside wall?

As has been well stated in the comments thread above, your solution may stem more from tuning the HVAC system and your home than repairing this minor obstruction. Chances are you won't see much benefit from a time-consuming repair.

The suggestions given are good:

Examine the overall airflow paths for the space. Close heat supplies and returns to force more heat to the cooler areas and draw more air from them.
Consider the passive effect of open doorways, etc., and make adjustments to how you use them.
Consider a duct booster fan to pull more return air through the existing upstairs return. This can probably be installed in an accessible location near the furnace.

Any home needs seasonal tuning. You may need to reverse these changes for the heating and cooling seasons.


Is it safe to hang a 39lb projector screen from a drywall ceiling without using the joists?

Absolutely not.

First, the drywall will almost certainly sag over time and leave a permanent bulge. That's if (IF) the drywall doesn't pull off the screws holding it to the ceiling. That is the risk of this scenario--not simply the projector coming down.

Here's how it could play out: You hang the projector, and all seems well. Over time the natural vibration in the home causes the single drywall screw nearest the projector to work through the thin paper top layer of the drywall. Because drywall is flexible, the sheet starts to sag. Now the force is on more screws, but the initial damage is done. If there are only a few nearby screws, the same thing happens there. If you're lucky, this stops movement, but now your projector is hanging on an inverted drywall bubble, bouncing around with every step on the floor above. It's not a pretty situation.

Use a decorative board of some sort to span between joists, and mount the projector to that.


Can I add return air vents to improve air conditioning in some rooms?

If you keep the doors to the other (warmer) bedrooms closed, try opening them. If this helps, then a return air duct, bypass vent around the door, or a door grille could help.

If opening the doors doesn't help the other rooms, you can try adjusting the vents (open more in the hot rooms, less in the cold rooms) to balance the air flow.

Also check the windows & blinds. If the warm rooms get more sun exposure, close their blinds or rotate them so hot air rises toward the glass. This can make several degrees difference during the day.


Kenmore glass-top oven range shorting out

The damage to the wiring in your third picture is the reason the stove is shorting out.  You can see the metal wire terminal has melted.  This is because it is much too close to the black metal frame that is surrounding it.

When using the stove, the movement and vibration cause the terminal to touch the frame and short out.  You will have to move this terminal away from the frame to solve this problem.

However, from the picture it looks like the terminal is compromised.  Due to parts of it being melted, and the carbon build up from the arc flashes, this could now be a poor electrical connection, which could lead to further issues/failures of this burner down the road.

You will likely have to crimp a new female sta-kon connector onto the wire connected to this terminal, and at a minimum clean the carbon off of the terminal itself.  If the terminal is damaged to a point where the wire does not attach snuggly, you may have to replace the element.


Laying Vinyl Flooring Over Uneven Poured Concrete

Spend $50 on a non contact moisture meter rated for concrete.  Make sure your system is ok with whatever level you have spring/fall..

Floor grinding with a diamond cup grinder, followed by SLC (self leveling compound) for the low spots would minimize the SLC needed.

Follow your vinyl flooring manufacturer for sealing/curing/dryness.


Two 3-way dimmers on 6 LED lights - lights blink when on

You should not use two 3-way dimmers on the same lights. A 3-way dimmer can be used in combination with a 3-way switch, to have on/off/dim at one location and on/off at the other.

But if you dim at two locations, rather than getting 0% to 100% dimming controllable from either end, you end up with a combination of the two dimmers' settings that may not make sense. The exact behavior depends on the particular electronics of the dimmers, but for LED lights and their compatible dimmers blinking is a possibility as the modulation timing of the two dimmers will not align perfectly.

Change one of the dimmers to a switch. If you must have dimming at both locations, look for a dimmer that offers a remote control option.


You believe the multiple neutrals are spare

It's real common for novices in electrical to see extra wires, and just assume they are spare wires waiting around for you.

That is not the case.  It is quite rare for electricians to install "extra" wires.  Every wire has a job.

Electricity flows in loops

Hot is available at the supply wire, and there's a second wire in the supply line - neutral.  Those ultimately go back to opposite sides of the supply transformer - that's half a loop.

Electricity flowed out the hot wire, went through the switch, out the fan cable and on to the fan where it did the work, and then where?  Not the ground, that's for safety.  It came back on the fan cable's neutral wire.  Then did it just end in the box capped off?  No, the neutrals were connected, so it went onto the supply neutral wire, completing the loop.

You attached the supply neutral to the switch so at least it would power up.

... or not

As for the fan, power goes to it, tries to come back on the neutral, and can't... which raises the voltage on the fan's neutral wire to 120V, as voltage is simply backing up with nowhere to go.   Tell me you insulated it and capped it off.

If you just left this "spare" neutral loose in the box, then it's a 120V time bomb. If the wire manages to short to either neutral or safety ground, the fan will power up momentarily, but the connection will be poor, causing a series arc fault.  If it shorts to ground, it also creates a ground fault, a particularly bad thing in a bathroom.

Double especially if there is another problem with the ground, because that ground fault could electrify all the grounds between here and the problem.

You wouldn't have expected a neutral to be hazardous (it's connected back to the panel, right? Oh wait...) Anyway, yeah. Electrical tends to be full of minefields.

So.  The right answer is to rejoin the neutrals, and add the smart switch's neutral to that bundle of neutrals, so all are connected.

Also, I would say that if you want to do any future electrical, I recommend getting a primer on the subject so you can get a well-rounded understanding of how things work.  A book on electrial that feels accessible to you is a good start.  You can't really google it; the subject is too broad.


How can I build a shed in two halves and join them without the roof leaking?

If the two halves of the shed are built to be structurally sound while separate, then there is no reason that each roof can't be built slightly asymmetrically so that one overlaps a portion of the other to provide weatherproof protection, like this:

Some tweaking of the interface would be needed to make it practical and convenient, but the basic idea would be to build it so there is at least 6 inches of overlap where the higher one covers the lower one.


I wonder if one is enough to light up the whole room with it being recessed and all. You might wanna consider doing more than one.


NEC code regarding grounding and conductor pass through

Don't mix up your EGCs and your GECs!

The EMT, provided it is made up properly and is not excessively exposed to physical damage, is a perfectly fine ground (equipment grounding conductor) by itself in this application -- 440.9 in the 2017 NEC only applies to runs on roofs, which get tread on repeatedly by clueless folks:

  440.9 Grounding and Bonding. Where metal raceway is run exposed on a roof for air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment, an equipment grounding conductor of the wire type must be installed within the outdoor portions of metal raceways using non-threaded fittings.

However, the ground rod needs to go, because it inadvertently violates 250.121 by trying to use the EMT as a grounding electrode conductor that ties a remote ground rod back to the main panel bond atop it serving as an equipment grounding conductor:

  250.121 Use of Equipment Grounding Conductors. An
  equipment grounding conductor shall not be used as a
  grounding electrode conductor.

  Exception: A wire-type equipment grounding conductor installed in compliance with 250.6(A) and the applicable requirements for both the equipment grounding conductor
  and the grounding electrode conductor in Parts II, III, and
  VI of this article shall be permitted to serve as both an
  equipment grounding conductor and a grounding electrode
  conductor.

So, just rip out the errant remote ground rod and whatever wire was hooking it up to the disconnect(s) or just the wire for that matter as the errant rod will do nothing if it isn't connected to anything, and all will be well when the electrical inspector comes around.


Do I need to install flashing for this replacement window?

The purpose of the flashing it to direct any water that manages to get behind the trim back to the outside surface of the house instead of letting it continue to worm its way inside where it can start to rot the framing.
The pieces of wood you've identified don't have direct paths to behind the siding, so they don't need to be flashed.
Keep in mind that the trim, framing, and windows themselves have been made of wood for many, many years. There is no need to apply flashing to these bits of exposed wood.
It sounds like you've got a good plan of attack for preparing and protecting the wood, just keep an eye on it (a yearly check would be good) and redo the scraping and paint job as necessary.
From the looks of it, you let it go too long since the last repaint, so don't let it get this far the next time. Don't worry, I'm not taking you to task for that - you window looks far better than mine did before we finally got them all replaced.


If it's an old A/C unit, replace it with new.  They are much more efficient (meaning: same BTU, much lower energy draw) and it'll pay for itself in energy savings.  I just saw a no-brand cheapie that was 8000 BTU for 5 amps.  The lower current draw means fewer or no breaker trips.

Even an old A/C is unlikely to trip the breaker alone.  Most likely it is the "last straw" on an already loaded circuit.  Next time it trips, thoroughly survey what else is on that breaker.  Research how much current or power each of those loads takes.  The best way is with a power meter like a $20 Kill-a-Watt.  Measure peak loads while the appliance is "on", e.g. A microwave while it's cooking, a laser printer while it's printing.

To be honest, most consumers have no clue how much energy appliances use.  This may be an eye opener.   The #1 surprise runs Microsoft Windows.  A lot of PCs are sold with 850 watt power supplies which can take as much as 1200 watts, though this depends on what the computer is doing.  The dead giveaway of a high-draw appliance is it makes a lot of heat.

And that especially matters if you are trying to air condition the space, it creates two electrical loads: first to run the appliance and make the heat, and then to run the A/C harder to remove the heat.  Reducing one reduces the other.


Stone veneer fireplace with TV mount and mantle

If you use actual cement board, actual mortar, and actual stone, it will hold together due to a chemical reaction that basically turns the stone, mortar, and rock into a single piece of rock.  Just make sure NOT to use too much water in the mortar.  It should be almost like playdough.  The biggest mistake people make with mortar (and other cement) is making it thin like vomit.  Make sure to wipe the cement board with a wet sponge before placing the rock on it.
Once everything is together and hardened you can drill into the rock facing and use concrete anchors if you want.  That is what I would do in case I ever wanted to remove the TV mount and replace it with a different one.
This job can be easier if you buy stone that has been rock-sawn in half (so that the "back side" going against the cement board is smooth)


You'll want to use glazing compound, which comes in both oil-based, and latex, and can be found in both cans or tubes.

Once you have the glass removed, and the frame cleaned up.

Run a bead of glazing compound around the frame (where the glass will sit).
Set the glass in the compound giving it a little wiggle to work out any air bubbles, and to make sure the glass is set in properly (don't worry about a little excess oozing out, you can trim it off later when it cures).
Using a putty knife push in glazing points every 6-8 in.

Install the interior trim, and wait for the glazing compound to cure.
Once the compound has cured enough (24-72 hours), using a utility knife carefully trim off any compound that has oozed out.
If you are not using interior trim, you will want to apply a bead of glazing compound to the interior side of the frame, and use a putty knife to smooth it to a nice finish.
After 7-10 days you can paint the glazing compound to match the frame.


Can I remove ceiling joists without risking the integrity of my roof system?

I believe that you're correct about the ceiling joists being entirely for cosmetic purposes. The rafter tie keeps the walls from spreading, and it appears to be adequately suspended by the roof structure as a whole.

You're probably doing the rafter tie a favor by eliminating the ceiling joists from its bearing, and unless you add substantial weight back onto it I don't have cause for concern.

All that said, I'm sitting here in Minnesota looking at your place in Washington through a peephole. You really do need to get a qualified professional on site to make a more reliable assessment of the situation.


Are large temperature variation in a water heater normal?

Such a variation is not normal unless you are using an abnormally high amount of water so that the water heater does not have enough time to recover.  Otherwise, since the heater worked properly when first installed, I would recommend calling the installer.


Wiring size for 75-foot run from 40 amp breakers to tankless water heater?

Put in big conduit.
The actual wire size for your 40A circuit is 8 AWG - see What Wire Should be Used for a 40A 240V Circuit? for details.
However:

You may later upgrade to a bigger heater requiring larger wires.
You may later upgrade to a much bigger heater that requires two circuits and twice as many wires.
You may later decide to run something else to the same location.

Put in 1/2" conduit and you'll be fine now but have very little room to grow.
Put in 3/4" conduit and you'll have some expansion room.
Put in 1" conduit and you'll have room for anything from 2 or 3 large circuits to a single circuit for a big subpanel.
At current pricing, 60 ft. (based on "50 - 55 feet from the panel", though title says "75") of 1" Schedule 40 conduit at Home Depot will cost you $13.92 more than 1/2". Plus a little extra on the fittings. $20 now will potentially save redoing everything in the future.
Don't run any wire in that conduit without checking with your electrician. He may be particular about how to do things - or he may say "Any #8 is fine, leave me a few feet on each end to work with."


How to repair cement/flowable-fill slab cracks

I mis-interpreted your picture.  So what we are seeing is a level concrete floor with carpet tack strips in the foreground area.  But I'm not fully understanding the foreground of the picture you provided.
It appears that we can see the edge of the concrete pad in the middle of the floor.

If you had no issue with the floor with carpet in the past, I would just leave it as it is if you are planning to recarpet.
The thickness would indicate it is cement. Repairing the bad spot like under your foot will not stop all the other fine cracks from continuing to crack further. It took 50 years to reach this point. If you took it out, you would almost have to do another concrete pour to bring it up to the level of the other rooms, i.e., bath rooms to the same level. Otherwise you would have to tear it out for all of the second floor to bring them all to the same level.
Unless you have some serious concerns, I would leave it as is.
Will you still be there in 10-15 years?

If repairs/sealing of the cracks is to be done, I would go with two types of products, liquid/self leveling for the thinner-fine cracks and a heavier product for the larger cracks.  For the liquid, look at products similar to Dap 37584 product and for the larger cracks, Dap Ready-Mixed Patch.


Extreme cold: Pipes seem ok, except hot water for bathtub which only trickles, despite being closest to water heater. Can it be frozen? Burst?

If it's frozen the water will not trickle.  It may be PARTIALLY frozen in which case running the water should eventually melt the ice and clear the line.  Run it slowly so that you don't dislodge the ice and have it block elsewhere.
Any water that is running in your pipes will be > 32F (0C) and should melt any ice it runs past.


What kind of filter do I need for well water?

Humus, or tannin, describes a quite large range of compounds. Unfortunately, this means it can be difficult to treat - any given treatment method may or may not work well for your particular water.

On the cheap end, activated carbon filters can sometimes be sufficiently effective at removing tannins.

The most effective methods are reverse osmosis and anion exchange resins (similar to water softeners), although these methods are also fairly expensive and high maintenance.

For your concerns about microorganisms, the most practical, effective treatment is chlorination. Chlorination can also break down tannins, if given sufficient time and adequate concentrations. After treating the water, the remaining chlorine can be removed with an activated charcoal filter.


Go for it

The terminal strips on HVAC control boards are designed to clamp two wires under the same screw, 1 on each side.  So, simply make sure the ends of the unused blue wire are stripped of insulation (and strip them if they aren't), tuck one end under the COMM screw on the furnace control board on the side opposite the existing red wire under that screw (you'll need to loosen the screw then tighten it back down to do this), and then you can install your Nest, using the blue wire as the C wire for the Nest.

As to the other wires in Y and C

The other wire in Y and the existing wire in C go off to your outdoor unit -- they carry the signal from the thermostat to the outdoor unit to turn the compressor on.  (In fact, one of the great hints for people with A/C who can't find their C wire is to look for where the air conditioner wires join in -- one of them will connect to the Y wire from the thermostat, and the other will always be connected to C.)


Blown Thermostat Twice and Dead Transformer

Pretty much can guarantee either you've wired up your thermostat wrong, or that you chose a thermostat whose current draw on the connection to the A/C unit  exceeds the A/C port's rated capability.
Consider checking the manuals.
Then see if you can power the thermostat off a different source, such as a local DC supply, rather than hanging it off the A/C block.


Why are British "shaver sockets" limited to using a single plug at at a time, and given this, how are you supposed to use two appliances?

Those shaver sockets are actually a small transformer with 1:1 windings. That provides mains voltage in, and the same voltage out. The only difference is the output voltage is "fully floating" with absolutely no ground return or reference. You could accidentally touch the voltage and the faucet with no current flow. The only way to get a shock would be to touch both sides of the output.


How to manage mold growing along the bottom vinyl window frame of every window in an R2000 home?

First, kill the mold with bleach and wipe down the whole area to try to get rid of as many spores as possible.

Next, identify and treat the root cause. Mold at the bottom of the inside would suggest that interior condensation is pooling there. Window condensation is caused by two factors:

Interior glass temperatures below the dew point
Humid enough interior air that there's enough moisture to condense on your cold windows

This suggests two potential solutions: decrease the interior humidity level, or get better windows that aren't as cold inside. Getting another dehumidifier or a bigger one is likely to be much cheaper than replacing all your windows with expensive, high-performance triple-pane units which are what you really need to stop condensation in the cold Canadian climate. Window technology has come a long way in the last 15-19 years, but it doesn't come cheap. I'd go with the dehumidifier now if the windows are otherwise in good condition, and start saving up for those better triple-pane windows. You'll feel the difference, and it will stop your condensation problems, too.


How do I stop water from wicking into the wall?

To answer both questions will require to have the concrete step removed entirely.
The water is somehow migrating up to the floor through capillary action I suppose.

To check it and fix it is still the same remedy. The step needs to be removed, downspout, as well as the siding and the corner boards. There are joints in the corner boards that will make it a bit easier to do so. No need to remove the complete corner board. Remove all the trim and siding below the door sill and in the corner that the concrete covered.

Since I have been in WA state, I have seen, typically how siding is installed under doors and steps, and this appears to be no different. In MD, it was never a good idea to place concrete directly against the wood siding, or any siding for that matter. This invited rot and insects due to harbored moisture by the concrete. I don't understand why it is done this way a lot over here, but it seems the norm. Perhaps it the condition of the trade everywhere, but i only seen it here.

Back at the matter. Under the siding there should some continuous barrier, galvanized metal is used a lot out this way, with a lot of nails holding it in place. which is the problem, holes in the face of the metal. This is what will need to be replaced. Even if it is not galvanized metal, this is the part that is failing, exacerbated by the steps.

The replacement should be a "peel and stick", self sealing membrane that covers the whole run of siding and trim that the stairs covered. It needs to go higher than the floor level on the inside, at least by a few inches, and around the corner to meet the siding under where the downspout goes back on and seal the end with caulk to the siding and place the corner board while the caulk is still wet, to bond it all together. The trick will be the door sill, sealing that. Typically the membrane is in place before the door is set and the bottom is sealed with caulk as the door is set in place. The steps can be re-poured, but they really should be kept away from the siding to keep the trapped water problem from reoccurring.


Not using graded lumber can get you in trouble. Or what I mean is using a lower grade than allowed for a residence. If you ever have an earthquake this could be an area that the insurance company says they won’t cover your loss. And you want to use material that is below grade 2 and specifically listed as not for structural.
I would not have this prior to my loss, don’t give them any reason for denying your claim.


Is there any advantage to waxing vinyl siding?

Yes, We use a cleaner/Wax, with a polyurethane base.  /  formulated from concentrate. We venture the material from the container through our power washer, using a wax/cleaner nozzle in our wand. its usually a one step cleaning, and the poly base fills the tiny pits in the siding caused by exposure to the elements. your finish is smoothened  with a poly-glow effect.  This protection prevents mold/as the surface is sealed. houses in worse than normal condition, gets 2 applications.  After treatment, the finish is much like a newly waxed vehicle, and the water beads, and runs off, with a dry shine. usually after proper application, it only needs spraying with garden hose to refresh luster.  Every 3-5 years, you can expect to re-apply.


Option two is installing a cabinet organizer, which come in all sorts of configuration and materials and may be free-standing or attached to the interior of the cabinet. A web search for "pull-out cabinet organizer" stands a good chance of giving you some shopping direction.

Option one is consulting a local cabinet shop for suggestions and a quote. A custom solution is probably going to be price competitive with a high-end organizer while being exactly what you want rather than the inevitable compromises with premade solutions. At the same time you'll be able to explore all of your options, including replicating your current look on a cabinet with a drawer.


If you have it too long with too many bends you will be creating a fire hazzard.  You need to be able to clean out that dryer vent.  If you have it running 15' one way and 10' another with 90 degree turns, then you might run into fire safty issues.  If you can put it up against an outside wall, make your hole there on the second story.  This will save you money, reduce fire risk greatly, and you wont have to pay a small fortune to have someone run a 30' snake to clean it every year.


Why can't you use push connectors to extend a short wire when they are used like that when installing LED pot lights in parallel?

Use a NM splice kit
These sort of rework applications are precisely why Tyco and others make special NM splice kits designed to provide a reliable, secure, self-insulated connection between NM cables without the need for a junction box to enclose it. So, I would use one of those to whack an extra length of 14/2 NM onto the too-short wire (make sure to follow the instructions on the splice kit carefully!), and then proceed as normal.


Your pictures appear to show a steeply sloped section with erosion, a flat section, and another sloped section (without erosion.) If the flat section resulted from poor compaction of an original sloped profile that did not have the flat part, you may be able to simply fill that back in so the slope is not as steep. If you want to keep it in mown grass, that might be the best bet.

Otherwise, "rip-rap" or fairly large rocks are arguably the standard method of holding a steep drainage slope.


Installing a ceiling light and rewiring switch and outlet

1. Remove the existing switch box
This may require you to cut the nails/bracket attaching it to the stud.  You should be able to accomplish this using a hacksaw, oscillating multi-tool, or any other thin bladed saw.
2. Get a flexible drill bit
They can be a bit expensive, but you're going to need one if you don't want to remove the drywall. I recommend getting the whole kit, which includes the alignment tool. It will also come with a tool for pulling cable, which might come in handy later.

3. Cut the hole in the ceiling
Use a drywall circle cutter, hole saw, jab saw, utility knife, etc., to cut the hole for the ceiling box.
4. Drill up from the switch box
If you're lucky, there'll be no fire breaks in your way. If there are, you'll have to drill through them as well.  Use the alignment tool to get the flexible drill bit to the middle of the top plate, making sure the bit is straight and plumb (you want to go straight up through the top plate(s)). Keep in mind that it might be a double top plate, so it might take a bit longer than you'd think.
NOTE: The drill bit has a little screw on the tip, so it will basically pull itself through the wood. You're not going to have to apply much pressure, just let the bit do the work. If the bit gets bound up, you'll have to reverse the drill to get it to back out.
5. Bore through the joists
Position the flexible drill bit up through the hole in the ceiling, so that it hits the joist a couple inches up from the ceiling. If you're only drilling through a single joist, being perfectly straight isn't that important. However, if you have to drill through more than one joists, you'll want to make sure that the bit is positioned as straight and level as possible.
If you have to go through more joists than the single bit can reach, you'll have to buy extensions to lengthen the bit. Another option is to cut additional access holes along the route, so you can drill from multiple locations.
6. Fishing the cable
This is the most difficult task, and might require cutting strategically placed access holes through the drywall.  Basically, use any means necessary to fish the cable between the switch and the outlet. The flexible drill bit can double as a fishing rod, and can be used with the cable pulling tool to pull the cable.
You might want to consider buying a fish tape and/or fish rods, as they'll make the job more manageable.

NOTES:
If you want to control a light and fan separately, you'll want to pull three wire cable (hot, hot, neutral, ground), instead of two wire cable.
The current switch box is too full, so you'll have to install a double gang box to accommodate the new wires and switches.
To make the receptacle always hot, simply connect the line going to the receptacle to the feeder coming into the box (hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground).
Make sure you use the proper gauge wire.  If this is a 15 ampere circuit, use 14 AWG copper conductors. If it's a 20 ampere circuit, use 12 AWG conductors.  Check the breaker protecting the circuit, to determine the circuit ampere rating.
Make sure you turn the power off at the breaker, and verify that it's off, before beginning any work.
Make sure you install a ceiling box rated for ceiling fans, preferably one of the braced boxes.
Do your best to be sure there's no other utilities in the way, before drilling through joist.  You don't want to hit a pipe, other electrical line, etc.
If you have carpeting on the floor above, you might consider pulling back the carpet and opening up the floor.


Why is hot-ground reading a different voltage from neutral-ground?

It's strange how these forums meant for getting answers to Qs so rarely just. get. a. direct. answer.
your question:
"Is this a phantom voltage or is this indicative as a loose neutral?"
Answer: Most likely just a "phantom" voltage.
More info: There's a lot that could account for those few volts. Most consumer grade meters have some level of error, not much, but enough to contribute to reading a few volts. Most branch circuits deriving from a building power system in a condo complex will have a higher degree of "noise" for lack of [not really lack of, Just no point in getting technical or trying to "flex" as many do on these sites] a better word, moreso say than a single family home. Also branch circuits of long distance from their source of power have what is called voltage drop and this can develop a small usually harmless voltage between the neutral and ground.
TLDR: I would not worry about the readings you're getting at all.


1/4 turn shutoff valve doesn't completely turn water off

Get a pipe cap.

This is normal with shut-off valves that are not exercised for many years.

You only really need it to slow down flow enough to change and tighten the connecting piping.  Sometimes that's all you can hope for.  That said, we've been on a campaign to replace every one in the facility, but it's almost futile - we'll have the same problem again in 30 years.


How do I make one of four lights on a switched circuit permanently on?

You could convert the floods to dusk-to-dawn or motion detection lights. Then wire the circuit always-on and bypass the switch or jumper it.

Good luck!


How can I utilize a light switch for a specific outlet?

If it's an apartment, meaning you are renting, then this should be a request to the landlord, and they may or may not have it done for you.

I'd instead consider an alternative...namely the wireless switches they now sell. You plug it in-between your lamp and any outlet, and then you mount the switch (which is wireless) next to your regular wall switch with those 3M removable mounting strips.

As a bonus, you can take it with you when you move to your next apartment.


I would not give up repairing it.
The pump has a plastic shoulder that the rubber part mounts into.  Take some sandpaper and rough this area up.  Then go to the auto parts store and buy a foot of coolant hose that has an ID slightly larger than the shoulder and will slip over it and buy a hose clamp.  Also buy a tube of silicone high temp RTV get the stuff the stays soft.
Cover the rubber host with a liberal amount of the RTV and then slide the coolant hose over that so that the space between hoses is filled with the RTV.  The other end should be exposed just enough for space for it's hose clamp.  Clamp down the coolant hose on the pump side.  Jam in as much RTV as you can without collapsing the inner hose.  If the RTV tube has a plastic nozzle you can jam this down between hoses and squirt more in.
Reconnect everything and clamp it down around the other side (which I assume connects to the tub)  Let it cure and see if it holds.


Eliminate center stack to finish basement?

In theory yes the drain could take the long way around the room -- but there are several hurdles you'll have to clear to make it so.

The wye, the elbow, and the P trap all look to be below the level of the I-beam. They'll all need to be moved to the other side of the beam -- is there room enough to do that, both in the horizontal space between joists and also in the vertical space between subfloor and top of I-beam?

As the proposed pipe crosses the room toward that exterior wall it needs to maintain minimum slope. Can the arrangement of things by the beam be set high enough to allow the sloping, without requiring the pipe to drop below the bottom of the joists at the far end?

As noted in a comment by isherwood, the center stack transitions to larger pipe near the floor. It appears the pipe rising by the wall is not of this larger size. I think the plumbing code provides some math that dictates the sizing of a pipe based on the number and type of fixtures it serves. It's possible, then, that the portion of pipe crossing the room under the concrete floor might not be large enough to accommodate the combined drainage. It might be necessary to open the concrete floor to replace (up-size) that section of pipe.

Except for truly ill-conceived ideas, there's almost always a way to accomplish something and meet code. The way could turn out to be uneconomical, however.


You didn’t indicate where you’re from, but The ICC Code identifies “Decay Probability Map” in Figure R301.2(7) which includes a strip along the entire west coast and a wide strip from Iowa south to the tip of Texas and from Iowa east to Massachusetts and extending south through Florida.
Likewise, Section R319.1 requires pressure treated lumber “or decay resistant heartwood of redwood, black locust, or cedars.”
Also, decay resistant lumber is required for “buildings and structures constructed in flood hazard areas.”


Why cant my screws for the electrical box attached to the aluminum siding?

You need longer screws that will bite into the base siding or find a stud. Aluminum sideing is very thin and will not hold well even with larger screws. Since this is a garrage and you mention silver paper backing if that is the only thing behind the sideing you may need to add a nailer between 2 studs to support the box.


Connecting RING Video Doorbell to Friedland 454 chime unit

two options:
Connect 1 and 3: that will send power to the button location,  the chime will no longer work.
Connect 1 and 2: that will defeat the repeat mechanism, other than that the chime will continue to work the button location will see continuous current.  I don't know if that will be enough for the Ring.


Where should I connect a second slave phone box?

For simple telephone service it doesn't matter.  You can run them all to one point or chain from one to the next; whichever is easiest to run.

For more advanced use of the phone wiring like DSL, having the shortest total path of wire to the demarc point is preferable, with as few splices as possible, which usually means running a cable from each jack to near the demarc point, usually in an electrical room or basement.

Running them all to that point also means if a wire breaks it only takes out that jack, not all the ones downstream of it.


Two ducts Blowing hot air, 4 ducts blowing cold air

Could you add some pictures of the furnace and connected duct work. Are The duct sizes you list round ducts? How long are the ducts from the furnace to the register connections?  Are the ducts insulated? Where are you located since a 4 ton A/C unit is quite large for  a 3 bedroom 1 bathroom house. I would have guessed a 2 to 2 1/2 ton unit would be large enough.


What is this and can dryer work without it?

It looks like the moisture sensor. It detects damp clothes and keeps the dryer running.  They are normally attached on the back of the drum. I have replaced the control boards in the past that have failed but never had the sensor come out. I know the dryers I have repaired worked on timer but not auto. I would look to see if it snaps in place with spade connections, if the electrical connections are fixed in place it would probably be ok to use but if there are any loose / flopping wires I would get it fixed prior to using it or other electrical problems may be caused.


Can I add a single pole switch to an existing thee way switch with same power source

It is simple and straightforward in this case. From the switch on the left take the hot neutral and ground to the new switch location. Then feed the hot (black) to the switch.
Now take the black to the other side of the switch with the neutral and ground to the new light location.
Install the switch and the black at the light will be the switched hot from the new switch you added.
This is the only location you can add with the diagram you referenced. If the hot and neutral are at the light, not the switched position, it will take 12-3 or 14-3 wire to do it, but it can not be done from the switch on the right.


Identify fuse that is off/bad but not tripped

To verify you have the correct one, turn off every other breaker one at a time and confirm that it controls whatever it says it does. By process of elimination, you can be fairly certain which breaker controls your garage because there should be one breaker that doesn't seem to control anything.

Thoroughly check your garage for a tripped GFCI outlet. It used to be common for an outlet in the garage to be a GFCI outlet that would protect all the bathroom and kitchen outlets, or all of the exterior outlets. The overhead lighting should not be protected by the GFCI, but I've seen stranger things.


Thanks to comments posted here, I looked at the list of washers that are on the class-action lawsuit lists of affected units and mine is. So I guess it's time for a new washing machine.


The black screw on a 3-way switch is the common, and the brass screws are the travelers.  It sounds like you wired up the switch incorrectly.


By manually impacting and cooling drill bit in water may one slowly drill concrete and bricks without impact function?

Impact drills are used in concrete and stone, with the appropriate drill bits, because they drill faster by causing micro fractures of the material surface and thus easier removal. The drill bits can get rather hot in the process.
It is still possible to drill holes in concrete with a regular plain rotary drill with the proper carbide tipped drill bits. It takes a lot longer to drill this way and the hole often ends up larger than intended because of the tendency of drill bit tip to wander around when pressure is applied it. The drill bit can indeed get hot but I've never actually seen the drill bit get so hot as to melt. Far more likely the end of the drill bit is going to wear away due to abrasion.
There would be nothing to stop you from repeatedly removing the drill bit from the in process hole drilling operation and cooling it with water when using either the impact driver or the regular electric drill. In fact you could even have a small stream of water running at the hole being drilled to help cool the bit.


How do you change baseboard heater to cast iron radiator

I presume this is a forced-hot-water system?

The question is going to be whether the room was originally set up with a radiator, or if the plumbing was redone for the baseboard.

If you're lucky it was the former, and  the hot and return pipes come out relatively near to each other (with a return running the whole length of the baseboard to connect back to that area). In that case you drain and disconnect the baseboard loop, install whatever plumbing and valves are needed to connect the pipe ends to the two ends of your radiator, refill the system (including venting the air out of the radiator), and it should basically Just Work. The main challenge, outside of hauling the radiator up there, will be making the connections; if the new radiator isn't exactly the same size as the one that was originally there you'll need some additional pipe, creatively arranged, to make at least one of the connections work out properly. (My library was retrofit that way at some point; the radiator there now is clearly wider than the original and both ends are connected via some additional copper tubing.)

If you're unlucky, and the baseboard's return is at the far end from its supply... I don't think there's an easy fix for that case. You could run pipe all the way across that wall, but that may not save you much over just leaving the baseboard in place. You could re-plumb the return, but unless there's some other nearby part of the return to hook into, easily accessed, that starts turning into a much larger renovation project. I suppose you could leave most of the baseboard in place and use it as the connection to the return, giving you both radiator AND baseboard active in that room... though a good radiator might release most of the heat before it ever got to the baseboard.

I presume you've already checked this plumbing detail, and that you're happy with where the radiator would wind up.

(I periodically think about replacing the radiator in my living room with one of the sculptural radiators a few companies are making. That'd be a relatively easy retrofit since it's ground floor and I'd have easy access to the pipes. It might mean losing some of the period charm of the place, but having a piece of "functional artwork" appeals to my engineering instincts.)


Do I need to cover an unused punched out hole in a junction box? If so, how?

A "knockout fill plug" - costs a few cents (depending on supplier - some are over a buck, I'd keep shopping), snaps into the hole (take the clamp out first.)


How can I tell what kind of baseboard heater I have installed?

That's most likely hot water (hydronic) - the heat source might well be gas (and will be a lot cheaper than electric if so, in most places). The breaker probably shuts off the power to the boiler.

As for "how do I tell for sure?" ask your landlord.

There is a fairly small possibility that it could be steam.


You may want to be a bit more specific with your question. But, in general, the tools would be various masonry trowels...specifically one for tuckpointing, a joint striker (to strike the mortar if you want to indent it) and a wire brush.

How to do it? Well, a quick Google should show you plenty of tutorials, but basically you:

Chisel/grind out as much loose mortar as you can
Mix new mortar (ideally mortar rated for the particular brick you are using)
Insert mortar (either via the tuckpointing trowel, or you can use the 'icing bag' technique)
let dry a little bit, strike the joints
let dry a little bit more, run a wire brush over the brick to clean up an extra


The system you describe is a "monoflo" system. They work pretty well when installed correctly. It sounds as though yours is installed correctly. If you want individual control in each piece of radiation you could add rad valves to each radiator piece. If you are not well versed in this, I would seek professional help so you don't change something that is very costly to fix. Add to your original question so that we all have an idea just what you are trying to accomplish. There are any number of changes and improvements you can do. None are easy or cheap or quick. Please indicate what you are trying to do.


Is there a way to trace water pipes through walls?

I was lucky and had limited access to the ceiling space that the pipe was running through by opening air ducts and pushing the vents up and out of the way. Using a webcam, a long usb cable and flashlight I managed to scope out the pipe in the space and trace it back to where it joined up to the main water line. Eventually I found the valve through pure chance. It was located inside of a wall stud and underneath a crossbeam rendering it all but invisible.


Are there insulated covers available for attic fans?

Answer: Yes, there are covers available for 'whole house fans' but there is not a huge selection out there.

You might consider making something yourself.


Could a "missing phase" result in damage to electrical household equipment=

If you do have 3 phase power loss of 1 phase cause what is called "single phasing". Sometimes a motor can run with the loss of 1 leg but it may start in the wrong direction and another time start in the correct direction. The motor will draw more than normal current on the working legs and usually overheats. With a heat pump single phasing can damage the compressor by starting in the wrong direction.


Meaning of small patches of shallow water on the basement floor

Concrete is pretty hygroscopic, meaning it attracts water - to a degree in my experience.  Capillary action is the classic way concrete attracts water, but if it is cooler than the air it can and will condense moisture from the air. And concrete holds water in and under pretty well: if you were to dig under it, probably not dry.

If accumulation only happens in some spots, are they depressions, or lower than other adjacent areas? That would be why it accumulates there.  Another thing to check is whether those specific spots are cooler than other areas so you have local action going on (sounds crazy, but you've exhausted a lot of other ideas, now it's time for outta the box thinking.) Use a pretty sensitive digital thermometer (measuring portions of a degree) to check.

Which brings up another point: is the air in your basement somehow a bit moist? Have you checked the humidity level, esp. in various places (dry here, moister there).  Is there any possible air-current that could move air over specific spots, or around them so they don't dry?


I installed my cedar fence 2 months ago. Can I stain it next year?

Yep, you can stain it whenever. It will catch up to the other areas that were stained already. Usually, you want Cedar to season for at least 6-months.


First off, have you considered that the fridge manufacturer might be silly and lazy in not making their appliance GFCI-compatible? Although the shock risk from a properly grounded fridge is low, I'd consider returning the fridge for one that doesn't have this caveat in the manual.

That aside, this is not much different from any other breaker changeout.

Before doing this, I'd ask the power company to kill the power to your house while you work on it (modern smart meters can be disconnected remotely, even) -- that way, you don't have to worry about working around live parts at all.  I'm mildly paranoid about live parts though; if you're not that way, you can simply turn the main breaker off and avoid the main breaker supply lugs while you're working, as they'll still be quite hot.

Also, the new code (2017) requires the use of torque tools to torque terminal screws to specification (this avoids loose or overtightened connections, both of which can fail over time) -- there should be a torque spec on the panel's labeling, and you can pick up a cheap torque screwdriver for oh, $50 or so at one of the big box stores.

Once everything's dead and you can safely pull the deadfront, remove the GFCI breaker from the busbar, tag the hot and neutral wires, and disconnect the hot and neutral wires for the circuit from it -- you'll have to unscrew the terminals to do this.  You can then remove the neutral pigtail on the breaker from the neutral bar and land the tagged neutral in its place.  Take the new regular breaker and install it in the open slot left behind by the GFCI breaker, then attach the tagged hot to the new breaker and plug it onto the busbar (again, you need to torque the terminal screw to spec here).  Put the deadfront back on, and have the power company turn the power back on.

BTW: a non-GFCI breaker here is Code-legal as 210.8 point 6 only requires GFCI protection for kitchen countertop receptacles.  A dedicated fridge circuit's receptacle serves no countertops, so it does not require GFCI protection.


Why doesn't my fan work unless plugged into GFCI standard outlet or surge protector?

What your are saying is that you have a broken neutral and its shorting across the ground. That's why it won't work unless you have a path through the ground prong. This is potentially a dangerous situation. So get rid of the fan or have it repaired, but whatever you decide. Don't use this fan in this condition.


PPE that can withstand molten slag from arc flash

Go to a welding supply, buy leathers. They will stand more abuse than most other things, but they are also a consumable, meaning you need to replace them as they become damaged in use (upside - welding leathers are usually not terribly expensive, as leather goods go.) The "cape sleeve and bib" is a good combo if you only need protection from the front, in warmer weather.

Be careful what sort / style of footwear you choose - a common error which tends to become a learning experience when cutting steel (lots of molten slag) is having footwear which does not shed incoming slag onto the floor - either because you've tucked the pants into it (don't) or because the tongue of a lace-up boot is arranged in a way that allows slag to collect and slip into the boot, following which the occupant of the boot has a strong interest in removing it as fast as possible, and different boots. Or the old "wearing fabric boots that melt" problem (or sneakers for the more foolish) or low-top shoes rather than boots.


Is it possible to buy just the fins or the copper pipe with fins for baseboard radiator?

You might try a scrapyard. There are probably old radiators kicking around from people who scavenge worksites. Maybe not, though--they may have been sold off when the price of copper jumped.


How to wire an outdoor GFCI with two pairs, both hot?

If this truly was a split receptacle, where each receptacle was fed by a separate circuit. Then you'll have to either install two GFCI breakers/receptacles, or cap off one of the feeds.

To my knowledge, there are no multi-circuit GFCI receptacle devices available on the market.


Should you remove sonotubes when possible?

https://www.sonotube.com/resources/faq.aspx

"Does the Sonotube form have to be stripped from the column after the concrete has cured?

Removal of the form is general practice for exposed column surfaces. In applications below grade, there is no specific need to strip the form unless it is required by local building code. The Sonotube Round form contains no hazardous chemicals and is biodegradable except for the 1-2 mil thick plastic liner on the inside of the form."

So, no. The reason to remove it is aesthetics, nothing more.


What's a better option: Half Rounded or k-style gutters?

I'm sure you can get extremely specific to how much water each holds, if that is a concern, but that also brings the size of the gutter into play, which can be changed to accommodate your needs.

They're both installed similar ways, easy to work with, so neither is better in any way, it is certainly only a matter of what you think looks better for your application.


No studs for glass shower door - Can I hollow wall anchor?

Yes you can install it.   I would use a very rigid highly rated (100 lbs plus) toggle anchor and epoxy anchor to tile.

Honestly these screws aren't doing much.   Your side bar is sitting on shower pan, the top bar should not be loose, therefore pushing side bars, the screws literally just need to make sure the side bar stays on the wall/tile.   There may be some slight force against during shower door openings but nothing significant.   No issues at all with this install.


How can I heat river water for skating rink construction without access to power?

Something like it does exist!
Wood fired hot tub stoves, commonly known as "snorkel stoves" for reasons that seem obvious to me (or it might be is a brand name, too.)


Installing 7 exterior lights on my new garage, motion or photo electric eye?

Yes, you can crossover motion detectors if you set it up properly.  You would use discrete motion sensors and lights, not combo light-sensor units.  If you're married to the idea of combo units, you will need to "hack" them, which is off-topic here.

All motion sensors have day/night detection, and will not activate in daylight.

However, motion sensors's light level detectors read absolute lux (the human eye cannot see absolute lux; the eye auto-adjusts to ambient light; sensors can't/don't/don't need to).  Light sensors are programmed with defaults for the lux of day vs night.  In very shady locations, or locations with a high level of artificial light (e.g. in the bask of a street light), those default values will fool the sensor. However after it experiences a couple of day-night cycles, it will calibrate to the appropriate lux levels.  Thus, do not angrily think "what is wrong with this thing!?" until day 3. However, if you cut power to the sensor, you wipe its memory and it must start over so having it downstream of a light switch etc. is a bad idea.

So to wire this, you must

bus a white wire from supply to every sensor AND lamp (netural)
bus a red wire between every sensor and lamp, but no need to go to supply (switched-hot)
bus a black wire from supply to every sensor (no need to take it to the lamps), this is supply hot.
Do not put a light switch on a black wire.
At the lamps, connect their black wires to the red wire.

You can use /3 cable for this.


You may have a compromised seal between the toilet and the flange (where the toilet connects to your drain piping). This seal is usually done with a wax ring and can deform due to aggressive plunger-ing or movement of the toilet relative to the flange, such as when the bolts are loose and the toilet wobbles.

When your drain is working normally, that seal does not need to do much - the drain pipe is wide open and the easiest place for water to flow is down that drain like we want.

However if the drain pipe is clogged, then liquid may build up against the seal until the clog is removed. This is where you'll see a leak along the floor and/or on the ceiling below. That would be consistent with your story.

You should replace the wax ring. You will have to remove and reattach a toilet, so you're right that if you want to change the toilet this would be a good time to do so. Also, tile usually extends to just around the flange, so you usually don't need to match your existing toilet's footprint.


How can I close a gap between my fence and my neighbor's that's on his side of the property line?

If you are worried about access around your pool you should be extending your fence as necessary (beginning at right angles to the end showing in the picture) so that it encloses the area of concern. That can all be done on your property with no quibbles from the neighbor.


Should I use non-shrink grout to help with support posts?

I just finished the project - the grout turned out be a great solution - I intend to do it again for the other side of the house.  Precision work in that part of the crawlspace was quite difficult, and simple letting the grout find it's own level made things much, much easier.


Why is woodwork relatively meager in modern homes?

Getting rid of the kids would be fairly simple if you put them to work as indentured carpentry apprentices making all those beautiful banisters.

Honestly the answer is several fold:

1) stately homes like that require immense upkeep and refurbishment which means money that most people don't have;

2) wear, tear, termites, and age don't mix well;

3) design and taste changes as quickly as a new magazine is printed;

4) many of these homes were built prior to current electrical and fire codes often making them deathtraps; and

5) given the previous four, demand has driven the experience necessary to turn these pieces out of economic reality. Supply and demand.

I'm sure there are other reasons, but I'm betting these five rank in the top ten.

I am all ears for more!


What painting equipment is needed to restore a derelict wooden house?

You will need:

Carbide scrapers of different sizes
Paint spray gun (will save you TONS of time)
Several good quality brushes -- edging and flat shapes
Wood hardener for any isolated rotted spots of wood
Wood filler or bondo to spot-patch rotted areas
Extra replacement siding
Saw(s) -- circular, oscillating multitool, etc
Hammer, nails (galvanized)
Aluminum flashing if needed
GOOD quality caulk (I like to use Quad, sold at Lowe's)
Primer (Zinnser or BIN)
Paint

TBH, I've seen siding in much worse shape.  DO be concerned about lead exposure if that is lead paint.  Some clearer pictures of the worst problem-spots would allow us to give you an idea of other special considerations to take.


Which latch would work with this screen door?

I found it!  It's an Acorn Latch Kit.  Thanks for the replies.


What Type of Caulking will adhere to Composite Decking for water proofing?

Typically you need those gaps for expansion of the boards in hot weather- if they're tight to each other they can get damaged as they expand from heat.
They make under-deck panels that catch the water and direct it out a side that work very well. That would be a better solution than caulking, which would most likely need to be re-done every year or two anyway.


Seal gap between bathtub faucet and cracking tile

That is too large of a gap to seal with caulk. If you are looking for a (very) temporary solution you would be better off with plumber's putty. Get a tub of putty (it is not expensive) and knead it well until it is warm and soft, then pack the void with it. It should do a fair job of keeping the water out for awhile, until a proper repair can be completed.
Proper repair would be removing the tub spout and properly sizing the pipe so the spout was close to the tile, then caulk.


The odor is a function of the drying process. Some moisture is chemically bound to the cement, but some remains. The dryer and breezier the area is the quicker it'll disperse. We can't really say.
It is odd that the cement is so smelly that you notice it. A new basement slab smells like fresh concrete for weeks or years, but that small patch shouldn't really be noticeable if there's any ventilation at all.
You could coat it with a sealing primer, then paint it to help block the odor.


Is there any way to stop the air leak through my furnace without compromising its operation?

Judging from the previous picture, I thought it returned from the lower floor through the bottom of the furnace. If it looks just like that new pic; a side tap with plenty of room, you could put a low-leak damper there that the blower will pull open all by itself when it runs (I'm having trouble finding the kind with a small weight attached...). This will block most of the flow in the ductwork, which is exchanging heat and causing a draft (half of the problem) where it's run in unconditioned space.

How is the ductwork insulated that I assume runs through the attic?  Your plenum chamber should have self-stick insulation on it, if it's in an unconditioned space as should any ductwork.
There is also a noticeable lack of sealant on the system allowing unconditioned air into it (the other half of the problem). My new best friend is duct sealant mastic in a bucket; tape needs the proper surface prep and can does eventually fail.
Steps one and two for addressing rigid ductwork in unconditioned space:

Another possible problem is that you have not truly sealed the mechanical room from the rest of the house including, however small, the return area.

Things to consider:

Installing a new system may require a completely different plenum; you should seal it for now but maybe wait on insulating it.

Jacket loss on equipment is horrendous, even on a well sealed and buttoned-up install; I prefer it in conditioned space. It's more efficient and less considerations need be taken: freezing temperatures; insulation is necessary.

You've used the word pascals, which means you know more about it than I do, however I'd of been quite satisfied blocking the air intake and installing a louvered door to include the room into the 'house'. If it is completely spray foamed (hermetically sealed) I'd be concerned, otherwise...meh. (Provided return air is not taken from the mechanical room.)

702.1 All air from indoors.
Combustion and dilution air shall be permitted to be obtained entirely from the indoors in buildings that are not of unusually tight construction. In buildings of unusually tight construction, combustion air shall be obtained from the outdoors in accordance with Section 703, 705, 706 or 707. -iccsafe.org

This intake will disappear (along with most of the problem) once you put in a HE system. Decide when and what you're going to spend money on. Recommended order: 1. duct sealant 2. HE furnace 3. spray foam insulation.

Having to install a damper is not a common solution. Attack the root of the problem; air infiltration and heat exchange.


What's wrong with an electrical outlet that will power a lamp but not a space heater?

The outlet contacts may be too dirty to carry a heavy load.  Or they may be loose.  Or the wires to the outlet may be loose either at the outlet or the in the breaker/fuse panel.  I would recommend not using this outlet for anything until the point of cause is determined and corrected.


Can I paint over latex with oil-based enamel to repair a peeling situation?

Painting over paint is never a good idea especially on something like kitchen cabinets that will experience a lot of wear and tear. If you're looking for long term results, strip off the layers of paint with a good paint remover and repaint with a quality wood paint.

There are many paint removers on the market that are very easy to use and you can complete a project fairly quick. One that I have used often and can be used safely indoors is Citristrip. Brush it on, wait 20 minutes and wipe it off.


Why would a gas fireplace have tiny flame and fog up the glass?

I'd suggest having a fireplace person come on out and take a look. Sounds like you're getting a bad burn with excess moisture. It could be due to a variety of things:

air intake (or exhaust) is plugged. Birds in the chimney?
problem with fuel intake (leak? Kink in the line?)
dirty burner element


More than 20 feet of flex pipe is a problem - 20 feet of flex pipe, uninsulated, sloped so it drains back into the fan is a huge problem.

Flex pipe has VERY high resistance to airflow compared with smooth duct. It should be avoided, or if its absolutely unavoidable it should only be used for very short sections where regular fittings will not work. I don't recall for sure but I believe that the stuff is normally forbidden on a range vent since it cannot be cleaned very well, and grease buildup is an issue. If the "flex pipe" in question is dryer vent hose it's VERY not suitable for range hood venting.

Long duct runs from fans venting moisture should be avoided, and if they cannot be avoided, the duct should turn to slope consistently towards the exit as soon as possible so that condensate runs out the exhaust. You may also need to increase the size of the duct to lower resistance.

Ducts carrying moisture should be insulated to reduce the condensation of moisture inside the duct.

Sure, you can slap a bigger fan on, but without solving the rest of your issues it may not help much.


Sealing Terminals on 150w Garden Transformer

If you look at the specs on the link in the question, you'll see they claim that the power supply is rated for outdoors, but not for wet locations.  It will have to be installed indoors or in a suitable enclosure.


Retiling a tub surround, not sure how to shim it

I see that the floor tile (and possibly the plumbing, a cement bed, or whatever) prevent you from moving the tub. That was going to be my first suggestion. If it's a possibility, do that. Move it only as far as necessary toward the long wall to make it flush with the cement board.

Otherwise, I also see that you have the drywall cut back some distance on the flat wall. I'd cut it back further if you can, then intall the shims as you describe above the tub. Taper shims out on the studs outside the tub. Use a 4' or 6' level or other straightedge horizontally to find the best compromise between flat wall and parallel to the tub. (You may need to continue the taper over the tub, toward the corner, to maintain a flat wall.) Take the taper all the way to the next corner if you need to and can, or as far as possible.

It appears that you only need to gain about 1/4" (I'd eyeball the gap plus the thickness of the tub flange to be about 3/4".) That should be no trouble to taper out.

Carpentry, especially in remodel situations, is often about finding the best compromise from an aesthetic standpoint. Here, because your floor tile is diagonal, you can afford to fudge the wall a bit to make all this work together.


Why are there so many 220v circuits/breakers in my house's electrical panel?

By "220 breakers", I'm going to assume you mean double pole breakers.  It's also difficult to speculate without actually seeing the panel, or being on site. But here are some thoughts.

Just because a double pole breaker is used, doesn't necessarily mean it's feeding a 240 volt circuit.  In some areas, it's common to use double pole breaker to feed multiwire branch circuits. Which means the double pole breakers could be feeding two 120 volt circuits, instead of a single 240 volt circuit. This is likely the case if you see a bunch of 15, and/or 20 ampere double pole breakers.

It could also be that electricity, is the common fuel source in your area. For example you might have electric dryer, electric range, electric heat, electric hot water, electric A/C, water treatment equipment, secondary panel(s), etc.  Having all electric appliances, can make the double pole breaker total jump quite a bit.


The quick solution is a mending plate, or mending rings, which cover the damaged area with something decorative. Or pick a lockset whose decorative rose is large enough to cover that area.


Brand New 2 Stories House vibrates when it's windy

Complain to your builder (try to have them visit on a windy day) and ask what they can or will do about it.

The next step is probably:

Plant trees to provide a windbreak. Without knowing where you are, a general suggestion would be something fast-growing but not, perhaps, the tree you'd love to have mixed with trees that grow slower and have more desirable properties - hybrid poplars being a prime example of the first type - they grow fast, and you probably won't mind cutting them down when the other trees grow more and fill in - but they do grow fast.

If you have a high budget I suppose you could try building a fence high enough to impact the wind on the second story, but that's an expensive proposition. Fencing for windbreak should be about 25-50% open, not solid; a solid fence diverts it up, and the air currents downwind can be worse than without a fence - a partially-open fence (or tree branches) slows it down more effectively.

Farm-oriented but fairly understandable wind mitigation info from Purdue.

An example of a large commercial wind fence.


There isn't any way to identify this exact valve but they are pretty much available in home stores. Turn off the water to that spigot and remove the top nut and take out the valve stem. Bring it to your home store or to a plumbing supply store and look for a replacement. This doesn't appear to be a regular gate valve so you have that going for you. It looks like you'd be able to remove that spigot and just replace it. You'd probably have to secure the pipe on the other side of the wall while removing the spigot.


Apartment's Hallway Lights Controlled By My Unit's Circuit Breaker

Yes, a lamp is on one circuit.  A circuit is powered by one circuit breaker (hopefully!!)  In North American practice (and most others), a circuit breaker sits in a service panel.   Any service panel is fed by only one electric meter, because of billing and safety/Code*.

Modern building and landlord codes require either a) a separate meter for the Commons Areas separate from any tenant meters, b) everything on one meter and the landlord pays the electricity, or c) the landlord uses sub-metering to divide the complex as in a).  However, these are fairly recent Code changes, and old buildings are grandfathered (do not need to be upgraded simply because Code changes).

However, this may not mean you're paying for the hall light.  Lights which are on at certain specific times use a known amount of power.  For instance, look at any town's street lights.  They do not have meters. Nor does the city have its own power distribution system; they are simply clipped onto the utility's 120/240V/277V/480V distribution.  How are they billed, then?  Easy: it's known how much energy the light fixture draws, and most parts of the world, night averages 12 hours a day.

So in similar vein, you could compute the lights' draw and ask the landlord for a rent concession for that amount; however most likely, he'll tell you that's already been done and is already factored into the rent.  So, there you are.

* If someone really, really, really wanted to power a panel from 2 meters, one could use a generator-style interlock to isolate them but allow the meter to power from one or the other.  It would be sheer madness to wire it to draw from 2 meters at once.


Is it cost effective to close some heating vents?

Given that the return air vent in the storage room is the only one, I'm fairly confident that closing vents and doors to unused areas will reduce the cost to maintain the used areas at a comfortable temperature.


Even if the 150A breaker existed (and it seems like it doesn't), that's unfortunately just the start. You would almost certainly need to upgrade the conductors to and from the 150A breakers for the higher ampacity, and quite possibly the conduit in which they travel as well, which would involve significant expense. And then the main panel to which they connect may not be rated for more than 100A per meter anyway.

So I'm guessing your decision is likely to be upgrade everyone to 200A potential or nothing.

I'd be curious how this actually turned out...


How can I stop my basement from filling with water?

In many ways this is an easier problem to solve on a sloped area than a flat one.

First - waterproofing products applied to the inside of the basement are almost never an effective solution. The pressure of exterior water eventually pops them off the inside wall. On the outside they can work.

So, the solution is in two general forms - one is directing surface water away from the house (this involves making sure that the ground on the upslope side (actually, on all sides, including the upslope side) of the house slopes AWAY from the house for at least 10 feet/3 meters) so that water running on the surface of the ground is carried away from and around the house, not into it.

The other is to provide a drain to carry water away from the basement and out to a lower portion of the slope below basement level. The BEST (but most involved, generally) place to put such a drain is around the outside of the basement, below basement floor level. That involves digging up all around the house to place the drain (and anyone building a new house should remember that "when the foundation is being placed, this will only cost you the price of the pipe, since the hole is dug anyway.") Obviously a large project, also obviously the most effective solution. Water cannot get into the basement if it's carried away by a pipe before it can build up against the basement walls. You can also add a waterproofing membrane to the outside of the walls if you go this route, since the walls will be exposed, and you can additionally add a "drainage sheet" outside the waterproofing membrane to help get water down to the drain pipe. In most cases simply having the drain pipe and backfilling with stone or gravel should be adequate, since the stone or gravel provides the drainage path to the pipe, and the pipe means theres no way for water to build up against the side of the foundation.

If you cannot manage to dig a drain all the way around the house, you should at least run one from the low side, below basement floor level, out to a lower point on the slope where it can drain by gravity. You can knock a hole in the basement floor and install a sump for this to connect to, or not, depending on the water flow pattern in the basement. While there are plenty of people (such as the ones on a flat site who have little choice in the matter) who simply put in a sump and a sump pump, and pump the water out, if you have a slope available I'd strongly suggest the use of a naturally-sloped drain pipe to remove the water by gravity, without power or anything mechanical involved.


Yes, per anchor unless otherwise specified (and sometimes it is, e.g. in pairs).

Accurate? This is advertising we're talking about, and assumes perfect conditions. I'd halve the number given.

Regarding your car example, obviously at some point the load will overcome either the structural integrity of the entire drywall sheet (as opposed to the local structure immediately around the anchor) or the holding power of the sheet's fasteners.

Hollow wall anchors should be used as a last resort and with a grain of salt. Use common sense, and never use them for things that move. Since shelves don't move, but the contents do, I'd not rely heavily on anchors except in rare cases where studs aren't available for one part of the shelf.


Handling electrical inside a galvanized pipe gazebo

It is not legal to use standard pipe as a wireway.
Standard pipe has a ridge that can cut the insulation.
If another code compliant wire way like flex is run inside the larger pipe that is code compliant (I use metal clad or MC cables in cases like this).
Any metal parts that may become energized require grounding so yes this framework with power will require grounding.


When pouring concrete, is it safe to add large rocks to increase volume?

Concrete is a mix of large aggregate, small aggregate, and cement (a 4:2:1 ratio is a good approximation - though designed mixes will be more calculated than that).

The size of the large aggregate isn't particularly important, unless you are working in very tight spaces or around reinforcement, in which case you want suitably small aggregate.

In this case there won't be a problem at all using softball-sized rocks. Just make sure that they are clean (ie don't have soil stuck to them).

(I remember seeing a section cut through a piece of concrete at the Hoover Dam Visitor Centre, and some of the large aggregate in that was rocks up to perhaps about 8 inch / 200mm or more).


Installing pull chain ceiling fan w/ light fixture. Two brown wires, two black wires, one red at the ceiling junction

I'm guessing you will want the fan to operate by the pull chain and the light to operate by the switch. For clarity, those are black wires and white wires out of the ceiling. The black wire from the fan will get wire nutted to the two black wires from the ceiling. The white wire from the fan will get wire nutted to the two white wires from the ceiling and the red wire from the ceiling gets wire nutted to the blue wire from the fan.

Now the bad news. The pancake box in the ceiling is not rated for a ceiling fan. You will have to replace it with a ceiling fan rated pancake box. you can get them at many home stores or electrical supply stores.


Electrolux EOB51001 oven making loud vibration noise when switched on

If it is only associated with heating, it is likely that one of your heating elements has cracked and is arcing. This is only going to get worse and is dangerous, you need to get it serviced ASAP.


AFCI/GFCI Combo Breaker Trips Daily Under No Load

I have had tons of problems with dishwashers & garbage disposal units in the past. Motor loads eat these "protection devices" regularly. My state has exempted from protection because of this issue. Make sure to check local code and if required replace the AFCI / GFCI unit and complain to the state electrical board! This is the only way the rules will be changed or manufacturers be held to standards that "normal motor loads or mandated CFL lighting can handle without tripping"!


Why am I getting water scaling even with a softener installed?

As a guess, the pipes got layered internally in scale, that will come out over some time (dissolving into the now softer water). Some large chunks may require filter screens, shower heads and valves to be soaked in your vinegar or CLR (containing lactic and gluconic acids).

I know boilers get descaling treatment, but I've not heard of the same with standard pipes. If they were quickly descaled, there might be a large amount of debris, which would necessitate disassembly (washer inlet filters, refrigerator water connections, shower valves, toilet valves). Perhaps all the hose hookup devices could be disconnected for the treatment


Where is this wall water damage coming from?

It appears to be a leak - where the leak is could be anywhere from near the damage (but it's usually not) to the roof, and it may not be directly above, depending on the path the water is taking. While I suppose it could be repointing in a brick or stone wall, I'd probably start looking at the roof, unless looking at the outside of the building while it was raining indicated something obvious lower down (a broken or clogged gutter spraying water on the wall, for an example.)


What is the best way to insulate a room with glass window for winter?

You can build a 2"x2" frame that's 1/2" smaller than the inside window opening, apply shrink insulation film to that and then use 3/8-1/2" foam backer rod to hold it in place in the window opening during winter.

This makes a shrink-film internal storm window that's easily removed and if you're careful, just needs a touch-up with the heat gun next winter to re-tauten the insulation film. The backer rod is usually a better product than rubber foam insulation tape for sealing around the outside of this storm window as the backer rod isn't quite so likely to bond to latex paint and saves you from the double-sided tape mess that's involved by applying to the window frame to hold the insulation film.

We used these for years till I broke down and did a rip'n replace on the single pane aluminum frame condensation/draft magnets misnamed "Window" that were originally installed.


CAT6, even "unshielded", is very resistant to electrical interference, just as it can carry very high-speed data while emitting little or no interference. Plus, your power cables have pairs of conductors carrying current in opposite directions, so any interference they emit is going to rapidly diminish with distance.

(For fun, here is an explanation of how CatX cables reduce crosstalk and increase EMI resistance.)

In real terms, 4" is plenty of spacing, even if you ran the two lines parallel for much longer distances.


LED lamp keeps glowing when dimmer is turned off

First and foremost, absolutely required: this has to be inside a steel box.  No plastic boxes.  The metal box needs to be grounded. This will keep containment on a variety of problems.

Thermal calcs can be quite complicated so I like to shortcut them by leaning conservative.  Everything in modern mains wiring is rated at 60C.  I assume ambient is about 30C.  So I'm looking for a solution that will give about a 20-25C rise.

Power resistors are real fond of giving 180C or even 350C rise at full rating.  Going "I'll derate by 30% and that'll be good" is a noob mistake. I've had to use a 1000W resistor to get an acceptable rise at 230W.

Also using a resistor like the anodized aluminum types which require a heat sink, is inappropriate unless you attach it to a heat sink.  They have favorable thermal ratings, but only with the heat sink. Junction boxes are not listed to be heat sinks.

Experience led me to an Ohmite L25 series with lugs. The data says we'll have just shy of a 20C rise at 1.44W and that will be fine.  The lugs will allow crimp lug attachment with #6-32 or 8-32 screws.


This isn't a recent post but I thought my experience might help someone. I had a similar situation where the knobs were off but the latch wouldn't release. It seems the transmission plate came unattached from the latch somewhere inside the mechanism, so sliding it back with a screwdriver did nothing.

I tried to take the door off the hinges but it wouldn't budge even with significant force. I have an older door with a 5 inch backset so the latch was very long and perhaps helped to hold the door tight even with the hinge pins out.

Ultimately I got out my Dremel multi max with a wood/metal blade attachment, slotted it between the door and jamb at the face plate and sawed through the bolt. I really didn't think that would work, but the cheap Kwikset bolt was partially hollow and didn't provide a lot of resistance. If you go this route you'll want to dig the cut piece out of the bolt hole with a screwdriver and not your finger, as it will be quite hot from cutting through.


Does it make sense to use a nipple to connect a tub spout to copper?

Typically you would use a copper sweat by FIP 90° elbow (often called a wing back elbow, as it has tabs on it to allow for securing to backing). Then screw in a test nipple (or use a nipple and cap) while the tile is being done. Once tile is done, use a brass nipple of the correct length (best to buy a few of different lengths and just return the ones that were the wrong length).


Why might we have 3 twin wires in our doorbell chime?

Three pairs are most likely connected to the three other components in the doorbell system, the transformer, the "front door" pushbutton and the "back door" pushbutton.
The circuit diagram is something like this.


Can someone unlock a locked door and lock it back again without the key?

Yes, locks can be picked, or bump keys can be used. There's no difference in using these tools to unlock vs re-lock a lock.


What are these small flies in my apartment?

Fly-like insects that are persistent, smaller, with slower reactions sound like drain flies.

Have you tried disassembling and cleaning out your kitchen sink trap? The congealed food waste there is one of the most common sources of origin for these pests.


How do I install a new exterior GFI outlet?

You have a fairly simple project.  Assuming you intend to tap the interior outlet for power, here are the steps and materials:

First, check that you have enough room in the interior outlet box to introduce one new piece of 14/2 or 12/2 NM, whichever is the same size as in the box now. I will assume you know how to make a parallel electrical junction in the interior box.
Next, run that short piece of wire
through a clamp in that box,
across/through the wall cavity and
out of a 1/2 to 3/4 inch hole in the
exterior wall close by. I don't know
what kind of siding you have, so I
can't tell you exactly how to make
the hole, but a spade type wood bit
works well on many types of
material.   Minor fishing of the
cable will be required, but not
difficult, especially if the
interior box can be removed
partially to improve
visibility.
Once you have fished the wire from inside the interior box to the exterior, made your interior electrical connections and secured the cable inside, caulk the  exterior hole around the wire with silicon.
Feed the wire into an exterior surface mounted box using the proper grommeted fitting. Caulk around the back edges of the exterior box with silicone (to make the back water tight) and fasten it to the wall.
Now you can connect your new GFIC outlet and install your weatherproof cover.

Of course, use proper safety procedures: turn off power at breaker panel before working in the interior box and doing any wire connections.  BTW, if you have vinyl siding, there are special exterior boxes that will fit nicely. These are available anywhere.  I know this is a long answer and maybe a bit confusing, but it is really a simple task.  Good Luck


If the evaporator will ice up depends on the type of control if it is orifice or capillary tube control it may Ice up but if a thermal expansion valve called TXV this regulates the flow and it should not but I have seen TXV controlled system ice up a few times.
As far as your system not shutting off when the temp is reached this is to keep the system from short cycling there is a setting sometimes called “dead band” usually around 3 degrees and is set in your thermostat it may be a setting like +2 -2 this would be a 4 degree dead band or the thermostat won’t turn the heat on until 2 degrees below set point and won’t shut off until 2 over set point same with the ac, you can usually change these I change mine based on season +0 -2 is my summer setting and +2 -0 is my winter setting. If it takes 10 minutes to change 1 degree a 2 degree dead band is ok but if you reduce it two far your energy cost will go up and the life of your system may be reduced from the repeated startups.


Low water pressure in one part of the house

Without knowing anything about the plumbing, and simply going by the fact that you said the bathroom was an add on. I'd have to guess that there are low flow fixtures installed, which are restricting the flow.


How many lights do I need for my basement?

11' x 50' is a rather odd shape but lighting it is done like any other space, first and foremost consider what you will be doing and where you will be doing it.  Is it one big entertainment space?  Is it a combination media area (tv on one side) and play area?   Is part of it an office that will need task lighting? Before even considering how many or how bright the fixtures are, imagine yourself using the space.

One common rule of thumb is 1.5x the square footage in incandescent watts, i.e. if you are lighting up all 550 sq feet you will need about 825 equivalent watts, or 14 60 watt fixtures.  If part of it is just a media area that won't need a great deal of light you can reduce the fixtures in that section and focus on the other areas.

Edit for future-proofing: to consider this in lumens, a living space is best lit with 20 lumens per square foot and LEDs that range from 750-850 lumens per fixture would therefore require 14-15 fixtures to fully light the area.


Increasing Range of Night Vision Cameras

Night vision, the type most sold to the public, relies on some low level lighting to enhance and produce objects. Infra red light does this or any light with a red output (or any red colored lens in front of a standard bulb). The heat lamp spot bulb will allow you to view objects in a larger area(or field of view) and see them brighter, but unless your camera or scope has a lens that can focus you will not be able to see any further than what the lens is set at.


A wiring diagram would be helpful. In leu of that , the transformer has 4 terminals. Two on the high voltage side and two on the low voltage side. It looks like the black and yellow wires on the transformer are the high voltage wires. The other side has a red with an inline fuse and a brown and green in the same terminal. The green goes to ground. The brown should be the common. There is likely a convenient place somewhere along this wire to hook to. The pictures aren’t too clear however so this should be verified with a wiring diagram.


Replace fan/light/nightlight and go from 3 separate switches to 2 - 1 for night light and 1 combined for light /fan

Success! I pulled the junction box switches and found there were 5 black wires tied together and 4 white ones tied together. I left the white ones alone and when I explored the 3 switches, I had the normal hot into the switch and switched hot leading up to the ceiling. One switch was wired the opposite way (switched hot in) and hot out - I cannot explain this. After I disconnected all the black wires, I found only 1 of the 5 was hot (one was for another circuit (not switched at the box)). To go to two switches, I eliminated one of the black wires and the middle switch. The nightlight was wired correctly (hot in; switched hot out), so I left it as is. For the combined fan/light switch, I used the last of the 4 black wires (hot) into the switch and then combined the fan/light wires out the other side of the switch, up to the ceiling and the fan unit. I also added the ground from the removed middle switch to the fan/light switch. At the fan, I left it wired as it had been in the photos I shared. Circuit testing verified that I could use the switches as intended and the correct response occurred at the fan.


What to do with ground wire in light fixture?

If it's a metal box with EMT, then the box is probably grounded and you could attach the ground from the light to a 10-32 ground screw into the box. If it old style NM cable with no ground, then just tuck the ground wire into the box away from the other wires. You can fold it and tape with electrical tape if it helps you sleep at night. There is no way then to ground your fixture.


I suppose in the US for a normal concrete job, filling around the outside of where the forms were is not part of the concrete contractor's scope of work. This would be done by the home owner who, if he's flush, might hire a landscaping contractor. Where I live people would fill and sod with turfgrass.

I am not a fan of French drains, but prefer surface flow. In Dallas TX I see some people spending a lot on "French drains" to redirect water around slab foundations when in my view the surface should be contoured to do this.

If you sod along the driveway, be sure to avoid over filling. I think you want the level of the soil to be about an inch or so below the surface of the driveway. This includes the soil that comes with the sod. This prevents soil eroding onto the driveway.


Your problem is the sewer, not the "fresh" water.

Activity on another floor is almost certainly sucking water out of the sewer trap at your laundry and/or bathroom sink.  The dry trap then has no resistance to rising sewer gas.  Doing laundry fills the trap back up.  Here's what it might look like in the wall behind your laundry machine.  For proper operation the U shaped part must be full of water at all times:

We're talking China, so shoddy design or construction are a possibility.  If the sewer trap is not vented, or is S shaped rather than P shaped ,it is vulnerable to siphoning dry.  See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trap_(plumbing)

Test this next time you have the smell.  Slowly pour about 1 liter of fresh clean water down into the drains near the laundry, and see if the smell starts to dissipate.

You can fix this by crudely mounting a second waste trap between the washer and the building's trap.  This could even include an "automatic air admittance valve" just to act as a vent without the need to penetrate the roof or reach a window.


Crack in joint between molding and ceiling

I really don't want to remove and replace all the molding. Any suggestions on fixing?

If the crack has stopped growing and the wall is stable, you could just remove any loose plaster/filler, apply new filler and repaint. You'd need a "deep crack" filler.

If the crack is still growing and is as large as it looks, you have a more urgent and more important problem needing professional help.


Could a layman build a house from plans?

I used to have a teacher that said

  Anyone can do anything given enough time and instruction.

That being said every trade has a learning curve to acquire the skills and required tools to accomplish the task.

I am a Master Electrician and have been in the construction industry for over 30 years. I am just finishing building a new house and here is what it have learned so far.

Some things are just not worth trying to do yourself.

So, here is what I hired out:

Excavation
water well
septic
poured walls
concrete flatwork
windows and exterior doors
siding
brickwork
garage doors
interior wall framing
basement stairway
drywall
air conditioning
ceramic tile
kitchen counters.

Here is what I have done / am doing myself or mostly myself with paid people to help me:

Framing
insulating
roofing
painting
concrete stain and seal
electrical
data
cableTV
security
smoke detectors
hot water heating
geothermal heat pump
solar water heater
photovoltaics
plumbing
interior doors
hardware
trim carpentry
kitchen cabinets.

I have been working in my spare time and paying out of pocket to avoid a large mortgage. It has taken me 6 years so far with about two more to go.

Sometimes I wish I had started this when I was much younger like yourself. On the other hand, I have acquired many more skills and patience in the last 20+ years that have helped me make this a great house.

Whatever you decide to do, understand that building even a small house is a complicated project and will require perseverance and patience. If you have ever spent a weekend doing a project then just multiply that by 1000 times or more, depending on the size of your house, and imagine how big a job this will be.

If you are still interested, then working in the construction industry for a few years first, will give you invaluable experience toward your goal.

Good luck!


What should I do if a new cabinet is smaller than the old one?

Some generic pieces of advice here:

Buy cabinets with a bigger footprint.
If a smaller footprint it can work out if there is an equal distance around the bottom.  You can lay down mosaics to make a border.  It really depends and we would need to see a picture for more help.
Anytime you tile a bathroom, tile the whole thing.  Cabinets should sit on the tile.


How should I deal with a cable found underground on my property?

The images show a cable similar to a spool I have of "cable-in-conduit" which is used for cable television service. Typical cable television cable drops, from the service point (tap) to the house can be 6 mm diameter, but the c-in-c will be slightly larger. It's hard to tell from the image, but even if it's direct-bury drop cable, it's not dangerous.
Are you able to view a service point for local cable tv service in either direction?
Cable television drops are buried less than 30 cm deep in many cases and are easily cut by accident. Cable in conduit ostensibly protects the cable, but a sharp shovel and a determined gardener can certainly cause damage.
Consider to contact your local cable television provider with the same query you've posed to the power company.
Allowing for your edit, determining that it is a power cable of some sort, you can check for active current with an ordinary compass, the magnetic type, not the circle drawing type. According to one web site, for alternating current, the needle will vibrate at the frequency of the electricity, likely 50 Hz in your country. If it is direct current, the needle will point in one direction as you move it about the wire.
A more expensive method is to use a clamp-on ammeter, if one is available. That is sometimes inconclusive as it often requires to separate the conductors to ensure an accurate reading.


When painting a house exterior, do you need to scrape and sand the entire house or just the peeling parts?

In my experience in painting my own house over 50 years I only sand when necessary, that is when the paint is loose, or, the surface is glossy. I just repainted some trim on my house that has Semi-Gloss paint. And, I sanded it first. I did this to improve the adhesion of the new paint. But, most of my house has flat paint, and I never sand it unless I'm blending an area where I had to remove some loose paint.

Update, 11/14/13: I re-read this today, including all the posts. It's interesting to see the different opinions about this subject. No wonder you had a question after searching the net.

My take on this is that if you are a perfectionist, you'll decide to remove it all. If you're just painting to resell, you'll scrape the loose off and paint. If you're going to keep it and use common sense, you'll scrape, sand where you need to feather edges for aesthetics, and paint. That's assuming its flat paint. For glossy finishes, you really better sand it to ensure the new paint sticks permanently. Incidentally, I always clean before scraping with Tide and bleach solution and brush hooked to expandable pole, and sometimes with a power washer to quickly knock off loose paint. Also, after sanding, I blow off the sanded surfaces with a blower, or brush it with a big paintbrush, or wipe it with rubbing alcohol or water.

Recently I used the tool below to "sand" the loose paint off my deck before repainting and was very impressed with it's efficiency. I like how it gets down into the cracks between the paint and wood and smooths out the ridges, as well as how quickly its use is. You might want to pick one of these up and give it a try.

Finally, one last tip. You can always do a test by painting a small area, waiting several days, then trying to scrape it off. That's how I learned how important sanding is for glossy paint.