What size Screw/Nail should I use for a 6 lb painting in drywall?

At 6 pounds, a simple picture hook will do.  Any box store or hardware store will have them and they will list their load rating on them.  Working from memory, I think the smallest size has a 10 pound rating.


You'd use a 10" duct that comes off of a plenum/metal box which is 16x16 to match the hole. You will find it... tricky... to try and attach a duct directly to an irregular surface like a ceiling, floor, wall, etc. (in other words, don't do that).

These are best answered by an HVAC technician running Manual S, T and D calculations after inspecting your system. The inch rows you ask about are static pressure  values based on your actual duct; you have to measure it with a manometer to get the location and value of static pressure, you will see these in inch values or inch WC values, typically.
Regarding which rows you read, I assume the PRN110 lets you choose which RPM setting to use, from 860 up to 1550 (the values you assigned to RPM in your question are actually the tip speed of the fan blades). Once you know what RPM you want to use, you know which row to read. Conversely, if you have an HVAC technician calculate the values on the right side of the table first, that will tell you what RPM you need to choose on the blower.


If this is drywall I would buy a small bucket of plaster and some drywall tape (the mesh kind), drywall knives and patch the smaller once that way. The bigger one I would cut a bigger square hole from stud to stud and cut a nicely fitting drywall piece to fit into the square. Fix it to the studs with drywall screws. Then use the same drywall compound and drywall tape to patch up the seems of the patch. All the stuff should be easy to get in the store. It takes some skills to get all of that smooth. Check out some drywall videos on youtube


Garage roller door motor not stopping when closed

I bought a new pair of straps and had another go...
Although I couldn't find any manufacturer's instructions for the door or motor, I did find some instructions for the remote control unit which mentions doors having screw limit switch adjusters. On my roller they look like the photo below.
With the door half open I decreased the travel for both up and down directions and slowly incremented them until the door stopped exactly at the top and exactly at the bottom.
I'm still scared to open and close my door without my finger hovering over the stop button, but so far it works and has saved me quite a bit of money.


ELCB tripping is multiple circuits at same time

Anytime a single fault trips two ground fault detectors, the cause is that the circuits are crossed.

Either the neutrals have been tied together somewhere; the hots have been tied together somewhere; or a particular load is drawing hot from one circuit and returning neutral to the other circuit.  This can and should trip both ground-fault detectors.

It should be completely OK to share or cross grounds.   Of course a neutral-ground fault will also cause a ground-fault detector trip.

I go into more detail in my answer over here.  Though the questions seem quite different, they are the same core issue.


GFI Breaker at Subpanel - Does it need a separate neutral to the main box

Hook up the GFCI in the usual way, entirely inside the sub-panel.

That is to say, hook the GFCI's pigtail to the neutral bus on the sub-panel, then wire hot and neutral from that circuit into the GFCI breaker.  Do not connect the GFCI's pigtail to the ground bus on the sub-panel (even if that's what you normally do in the main panel).  Do not run a separate neutral back to the main panel.


Small compressor and mini hvlp spray gun vs powered spray gun

As I'm sure you're expecting to hear, you get what you pay for. Likewise, there's tons of information online.
In my experience, I'd say you sound like you should stick with rattle cans and work on your technique. Rattle cans aren't the problem - over time you'll learn how to feather with them, how to anticipate when they will spatter, how to work upside down and in between, and you'll learn which products are able to achieve the quality you want for your finish.
If that's not what you want to hear, then the easy answer is: Sure, buy that off-brand gun and give it a whirl. See how it works, maybe it's fine and maybe it lasts long enough for you to feel like you got your money's worth. However, if you're spraying a bike with a finish you want to stand up to the road, you're probably using a thicker paint, and those types of sprayers tend to work poorly with all but the least viscous paints - the product data for the paint itself will determine whether it can be cut to reduce viscosity. If you intend on using paints that are too thick for the sprayer to handle and the manufacturer doesn't tell you how best to thin it, you might try an appropriate additive or cut it with whatever solvent it uses to improve the flow aka lower the viscosity, but then you're diluting the paint and can easily result in failing paint. In general, paint chemistry isn't meant to be diluted or reconstituted.
The other options are far more expensive.
Given the types of projects you describe wanting to work on, given that you are looking to make an investment in dedicated equipment, and given that money is a problem: the first thing beyond the options above that you should be looking for is a low pressure low volume sprayer and prepare to get deep in the weeds.
(If you're thinking of a hobby type gun, I guess that could work, but it's going to take a lifetime to paint anything as big as a bike with the coating thickness you'll likely want since they're meant for stuff on the order of a small damaged section on a window sash or miniature figurines. A bike is not a small object. A model bike is a small object in terms of spray equipment.)
Getting into dedicated spray equipment is a deep rabbit hole. Just keep in mind two things:

This site's rules prohibit product selection advice.

and, as mentioned, it doesn't matter the means - whether you go with rattle cans or powered spray equipment - the methods do the work. Technique and paint quality has the greatest impact on your outcome. Granted, like with most things, purpose built equipment will help a lot.

In all cases, you'll need to consider the equipment's cleaning process and required materials. For a rattle can, you just turn the can upside down and spray until all the pain left in the siphon is ejected. Whereas, dedicated equipment cleaning requirements are model specific.
Being on a budget, you're going to be looking for a LVLP gun - you'll need to do your own research on the position of the paint reservoir and the extraction process as they will have a big impact on number of setups and your ability to continuously spray 360 degrees and complicated shapes like a bike. This equipment is still far from being cheap. Your choice of compressor will need to be based on providing adequate volume in order to maintain a reasonable duration at the pressure your spray gun requires. You'll need means to extract moisture from the line. You'll need to know how to work with air hoses and fittings. You'll need to consider the impact of the noise of the compressor if that's an issue. Keep in mind that spraying with compressed air presents a number of challenges.
Dedicated staged airless sprayers: The thing to bear in mind is the more stages, the greater the ability to atomize thicker paints and the longer spray duration. These heat up as they spray as well, but with these it can damage the equipment. The fewer the stages, the lower the cost, but the faster it heats up.
A note on the pot sprayer on a compressor that your dad used to use when he was a carpenter: essentially the same setup as the LVLP recommendation above, but get ready for a mess and it's historically technically been an EPA violation.
Now all this is assuming you are aware of the overspray considerations once you move beyond rattle cans.
Good luck and have fun!

(Edit)
Read these links for an articles that flush out the upshot of the solution above:

'How to Set Up an Air Compressor for Spray Guns & Painting'.

'Paint Spray Gun - How To Pick A Paint Gun'.

'Which HVLP Spray Finishing System is Right for You'.

Read these for context (OSHA regulations, EPA regulations), and bear in mind that although personal small-scale spraying is not subject to federal air quality regulations, the improved transfer efficiency and material savings versus the HVLP makes the operational cost over the lifecycle of the LVLP equipment significantly less than HVLP finishing systems.

Essentially, if you go beyond the cheapo "finishing system" options (rattle can or an all-in-one sprayer) every piece of equipment will need to be evaluated for the impact of it's performance spec on your entire process ... for example, two things to keep in mind:

Remember, high volume means lots of paint. Make sure you prepare for the overspray and the

Remember, the cost-time-quality pyramid (if you don't have much money and you want quality, you better be ready to make up the difference with time investment).


A patch will be virtually undetectable if done properly. Professional plasterers do often skim the entire wall but there is no reason to texture the entire wall if you do not want to.

Using texture is an easy way to hide imperfections, so is a great idea if you (or your contractor) do not want to spend the time and effort (and $$; time = $$) to patch it properly. Call a different "drywall guy", preferably a reputable professional plaster company and one that doesn't leave unscrewed floating corners like in top pic.


How do I cut a new crawlspace access in a brick foundation?

I think this deserves to have an engineer take a look and give you an opinion. Removing a large portion of the foundation is not something you want to mess with without a plan. Plus if you're going to bother to do it, you might as well make it a real door so that you can actually get boxes in there or something.

As an alternative idea, it might be easier to put a trap door in your floor somewhere above the crawlspace at a convenient location. Obviously this has its own structural considerations, but it might be easier and would let you avoid messing with the foundation.


Can I use 8 AWG THHN in conduit for a 50A outlet in my garage?

First, you are required to use the 60 degree table for household wiring below 100A. That will call out #6 copper or #4 aluminum wirewhich is 55A but you are allowed to round up.  Yhis is a wobbler point where I wouldn't normally mention aluminum (it is cheaper) except for the asterisk below.

Your short 47A peaks don't inherently require a 125% (80%) derate for continuous load, but you didn't mention what your load was, and certain loads have a statutory requirement to be derated as a continuous load, e.g. Heaters.  The load's sly choice of 47A for its peak suggests the builder knows it is one. Regardless, it does not matter to wiring since 6Cu/4Al wire good for 50A is also good for 60A.

Using two blacks for two hots is fine.

Your plan to re-mark the wires has a problem: in THHN you are not allowed to re-mark to change a wire's function At all, not even whites to hots, unless the wire is 4 AWG or larger in which case you can mark anything you please.  And now you know why I mentioned aluminum.

#4 will just fit inside that 1" conduit, though it will be a challenging pull.

However, "bare" is a wire color.  You could strip all the insulation off a white to make it a bare wire.   Just don't get caught.   And be careful, if the wire is too finely stranded, it may go all rats-nest on you once out of the insulation, and that would not be acceptable.

You are not required to use a #6 ground wire. For 60A, #10 will suffice.


How can I cut cement sewer line to add cleanout?

Concrete chainsaws can be rented.  They would do all the cutting from above and simplify the excavation.  Industrial sized hydraulic ones cut open doorways in poured concrete walls.

Another option would be a flexible saddle tap..,which installs by drilling the concrete line with the proper coring bit.  Fernco makes a wide line of drain fittings


How to connect 2 lamps to one switch wirelessly

You must do your shopping for smart home devices.  Specific product recommendations are off-topic on this Stack Exchange (although I did give a specific example in a comment).

What you’re looking for tho is a wall switch that acts as a controller for one lamp, and a plug in module for lamp 2.   You don’t need to sense voltage at all, you just need a smart switch that will turn on another device as well as itself.  In some cases you may or may not need a particular systems hub.  I would also watch out for systems where internet connection is required for the setup to operate correctly.


How do I attach both my washer and dryer to the same NEMA 14-30 receptacle?

You originally had an Asko washer/dryer matched set.  This wasn't just style. The Asko washer plugged into the Asko dryer, which provided a special NEMA 6-20 receptacle on the back, specifically for an Asko washer.  Why? The set is designed for high-density condos/apartments, to minimize utility hookups (no hot water, no dryer vent, no separate washer power).  See page 18 of this document.

My guess is, you live in a large housing complex which found it profitable to buy the exotic Asko units to spend less on hookups.  I'm also guessing you "own" rather than "rent" since a landlord would be more hands-on.

Was the electrical connection part of your buying decision?  I'm sure the appliance store has sold into your housing complex before.  Did they know about the peculiar Asko hookup and recommend the LG because it's compatible?  If so, it should have a 6-20 outlet on the back; done.

Otherwise, aside from consumer or legal recourse against the appliance store for selling you the wrong thing, let's talk about your technical options.

Obtain a dryer that is compatible with the Asko "plug washer into dryer" arrangement.  Your maintenance department may have suggestions.
Have maintenance pull a new wiring run to an additional NEMA 6-20 receptacle for the washer. This will be expensive (remember, this is why the complex spent extra on Asko units) but will give flexibility - letting you choose a wider selection of washer/dryers. (they still need to be water-heating/ventless).

Your dual-outlet solution is illegal and unsafe because the dryer could pull 30A while the washer pulls 15A. The Asko dryer was designed to share a 30A circuit with the washer it controls - the LG isn't.  I suppose it might be possible to get a very large switch to power EITHER the 14-30 dryer outlet OR the 6-20 washer outlet.  But insurance/liability/HOA won't let you homebrew that, you'd have to hire it done, and it'd cost as much as option 2.  Plus it'd be rather "hillbilly".

Don't get adapter cables and unplug the washer and plug in the dryer every load. These large outlets are not made for frequent unplugging.

I would just ditch the dryer and hang clothesline... in the kid's room... the one who broke the dryer!


You are correct in that marble should be sealed before installation because it can absorb color from the grout. Luckily, your marble and the grout are very similar in color. You need to seal the grout, and now the tile, after the grout has cured. The time for the grout to cure should be on the bag of grout, usually 24 to 48 hours. Pick a sealer for marble and follow directions, there are many to choose from.

I'm curious, didn't the contractor know to seal the marble first?


Yes, it's definitions possible that the black with white stripe is the same as blue.  Though you might find that the black is blue, and the black with white stripe is black.

In either case it won't matter, if you get it wrong you'll just have to switch them.


Main outdoor breaker is ONLY 100 AMP but total of Breakers AMP on internal panel is 165 AMPs.

Synopsis: The sum of all the branch circuit breakers is a meaningless number.

The main breaker will "trip", or "flip off" as you say, when the current (amperage) load well exceeds it's rating for a predetermined amount of time. Meaning a breaker does not trip when the load is 1 or 2 more than the rating. The "continuous load" on the panel should not exceed 80%. In a residential application this is a hard number to pin down though.

As to your sub-panel question, a load calculation is the only accurate way to tell if your service is adequate to support any new loads on the service.


Should I install drywall panels parallel or perpendicular to ceiling joists?

With option 2 you have twice as much seam length running down the center of ceiling joists. This can be a real pain to keep everything aligned, especially when you have roof braces, overhead door brackets, and other structures holding the truss members rigidly in place.

Also, some brands of drywall aren't designed to resist sag parallel to the mounting lines and should only be installed perpendicular to the framing.

For those reasons, along with what juicestain09 said, option 1 is far better.

One note... unless your wall is very straight, you may want to run the first row on a chalked line 24" off center, and cut both outer rows to fit. Cutting drywall is not difficult, and you may end up with a nicer fit. That said, you have 1/2" of coverage available from the wall panels, so maybe that's adequate.


I would remove the jumper from Y to G and use your yellow for Y.

On the thermostat and the furnace you should have
Y , yellow (cooling)
G, green (fan)
R, red (power 24v) jumper R to Rc, Rh
W, white (heat) no jumper, on thermostat use W1 (first stage heat). Leave W2 unused and set the thermostat to single stage heat, single stage cool, that way the thermostat knows that there is nothing connected to its W2 terminal.
C, blue (common/ground) this wire allows the thermostat to draw power from the HVAC system as opposed to using the batteries.


Replacing two bath fixtures on one switch

It sounds like you're not sure how this was wired up before, since the wire nuts came off when you pulled the fixture off.

There are a couple of different things that could be going on here.

You either have:

Power coming into the switch box, then going to the lights, with the switch cutting the hot wire to the lights (this is what I believe you have).
Power coming into one of the ceiling boxes with a "switch leg" running from one of the ceiling boxes to the switch box on the wall.

It looks to me as if you have power in the switch box, wired straight through the pictured ceiling box to the other ceiling box. Does the other ceiling box only 1 black, 1 white and 1 bare grounding wire in it?

If I'm right about the power coming into the switch box, then you want to:

Connect the black wire from your fixture to both black wires in the ceiling box.
Connect the white wire from your fixture to both white wires in the ceiling box.
Connect the ground wire from your fixture to both grounding wires in the ceiling box (there must be another one up inside the box, or they're pig-tailed into one wire) and connect the ground to the metal strap on that box, as well (the green ground screw). The metal parts on your fixture will be grounded when you screw the fixture to that metal strap to attach it to the ceiling.


Turning two switched outlets into a half switched outlet when only 2 wire is used.

No you won't be able to do this without a third wire since you need to be able to supply an unswitched hot to the outlet in addition to the switched .  You might want to look into some wireless remote options if pulling a new cable is out of the question.


Is polymeric sand necessary for paver joint?

I live in the Pacific Northwest also. I have done several paver walks, I have used regular sand and polymeric sand. What I have found is a good even base is the most important part of the job. Regular sand tends to need a new bag about every 3 years and polymeric is going on 5 but will need an add this year. For me both tend to grow grass because our horses kick up a lot of dust in the arena on hot days then things grow, not bad but it happens with both. Make sure your base is even and the pavers are uniform height for the best long term results. I used 1/2" crushed quarry 1-2" thick under my areas and compacted it drains well and the pavers don't move. Good luck on your project.


How to put carpet over hardwood in apartment, inexpensively, and removable without nails or screws?

You can get non-slip rug pads that are made to keep rugs from sliding around on floors, and cover your entire floor with those wherever you want this carpet. But without nailing it down at the edges, there is no way to do it. I've done what you are planning in bedrooms before, but I didn't bother putting the carpet/rug under the bed or furniture; no point in wasting the money. I only wanted it where feet would go.

Not an endorsement, but here are some examples; items 2, 3, 7, 8 and 9 on this page:
https://www.tenbestproduct.com/best-rug-pads/


Sizing up a battery bank for max continuous power draw

I spent way too long thinking I was going off-grid and then didn't, as the system cost to do what I needed and the grid connection cost crossed paths when the power company had a slow-down in new connections and got suddenly reasonable...

305 Ah battery is going to have a C/20 rate of 15 amps, for roughly 183 watts on a 12V system. C/20 is the discharge rate over a 20 hour period and is typically how the "305 Ah" is rated in the first place (you get more Ah capacity discharging slower and less discharging faster - and the Ah tends to drop from rated capacity as the system ages.)

A good "rule of thumb" on (lead/acid) battery bank size to support a certain draw is to stick at or below the C/20 rate. If your inverter supports multiple input voltages, I would strongly suggest going to a higher voltage (24, 36 or 48V) since maintaining a battery bank charged in parallel is much more prone to problems than a series string.

Or, get a different vacuum, or a non-electric sweeper. You don't provide details about your vacuum cleaner, but many are quite high Amperage draw at 120V (or 240V), which will be more than 10 times (or 20 times) as much draw at 12V (inverters are not 100% efficient.) That will result in a very significant increase in the size of the battery bank you need. Alternatively, you fire up a generator for 15 minutes once a week to meet your 10 minutes once a week of high power draw, and haul fuel for it, and maintain it.


Can you have many adjacent windows along the perimeter of the top of a wall?

This answer is pretty much the same as Jasens, I elaborated a little bit.
Each post, at the corners and between the windows are supporting a rafter, sized properly for the roof load. Set between those rafters are purlins which make up the rest of the support for the roofing. The roofing is attached to the purlins.

So to answer you first question, as long as you follow this post and rafter example, you could have as many as you prefer as long as you have enough wall space for racking resistance.

In other words, don't make the windows too tall.

I added a pic to show what is going on with the roof.


How to replace old ceiling fan-light with just a light fixture

I believe that you have a standard switch loop, coming off the black bundle as white and returning as black. That return black, which is connected to the red wire, is your switched hot.

So...

The white from your fixture goes to the white bundle (possibly without the jumper, which doesn't seem necessary).

The black from the fixture goes to the single black wire (to which the red is now connected).

The black from the fan that connects to the black bundle will simply be eliminated.

Make sure you have a good understanding of how to make safe connections with wire nuts, including the capacities of the different nut sizes.


Can I cover an electrical box with tile?

No.

In most countries/states it is not permissible to have a normal wiring join in an inaccessible location.

If you check local code, there may be specialised splices that can be used in inaccessible locations but usually you would have to replace the wiring with continuous wires.


Is this decorative trim or exterior bracing?

The style of finish with several narrow vertical boards placed on broader surfaces is called board and batten.  The battens are used to hides seams of the broader sections, and in more primitive construction, to fill cracks, block air, and improve insulation.

The battens are not meant to be structural, but when nailed, screwed, or glued into place, add some minor additional rigidity to the structure. The horizontal and angled strips are also primarily decorative, but fill roles similar to the battens.


How do I read the markings printed on the outside of electric wires?

TAIFULONG E204798 FU AWM 3321 VW-1 IBAWG 150°C 600V FENG TAI ELECTRONIC.

First, TAIFULONG is the cable brand.

E204798 I do not know.

The FU is actually “ЯU”, the symbol for the Underwriters Laboratories Recognized Component Mark:

  These are Marks consumers rarely see because they are specifically
  used on component parts that are part of a larger product or system.
  These components may have restrictions on their performance or may be
  incomplete in construction. The component recognition marking is found
  on a wide range of products, including some switches, power supplies,
  printed wiring boards, some kinds of industrial control equipment and
  thousands of other products.

AWM indicated Underwriters Lab Appliance Wiring Material:

  UL offers a broad and comprehensive certification program for
  appliance wiring material (AWM). This program enables manufacturers to
  demonstrate compliance in an objective and credible fashion, while
  enabling thousands of OEMs to source safer, compliant products.

3321 indicates a specific AWM rating.

  Appliance Wiring Material Style Number Designations: 3000–3999: Single
  conductor, thermosetting-insulated wire.

Thermoset wire insulation BURNS, compared to thermoplastic insulation, which melts and reforms. The specifics of the rating I do not have.

VW-1 indicates extra flame testing rating:

  Where a greater degree of flame retardancy is desired, over that
  required for all wire & cable, this Vertical Wire flame test can be
  imposed. This is an optional flame rating, and products meeting the
  test may carry the additional marking "VW-1."

The IBAWG is actually 18 AWG. This means 18 Gauge Wire, according to the American Wire Gauge standard (aka the Brown & Sharpe wire gauge). This is the wire Size. Typical house mains internal wiring is 12~14 AWG, depending on current needs. 16 and 18 AWG is often for appliance cord wire and low voltage wire systems.

150°C is the Insulation breakdown temperature. It will melt/burn at 150 degrees Celsius. Normal temperatures will not exceed this for household in-wall wiring.

600V is the Insulation breakdown voltage. Any voltage meeting or exceeding this will result in no insulation. That's bad.

Feng Tai Electronic is the Manufacturer.


There are drywall/plaster corner protectors that are available for retail purchase and for commercial use. Basically they accomplish the same thing you did with your aluminum angle, except they are usually made of plastic. Other than that: plaster patch, sand smooth, plaster patch, sand smooth, ad nauseum...


You need to be more specific, is the water overflowing the bowl and running onto the floor? If that is the case then the drain line somewhere below that toilet is plugged and waste water from above the toilet that drains into the same sewer line is the problem. You will need to call a plumber who can figure out where the blockage is and fix the problem


Plastic shower pan about to crack. Any preventive measures to take before it is too late?

This is happening to one of my tubs.  I discovered that the tub is sitting on a block of styrofoam, and apparently rats chewed holes in it and created unsupported areas that flex when stepped on.  I'm going to have to replace the whole thing sooner or later, but I temporarily fixed it by epoxying fiberglass patches over the weakened areas.

Update: the patches held up for two years before I sprung for a new tub.


Inline whole house filters and their effective filtration performance

No. If a filter allows a particle size to pass, more filters of the same porosity will pass the same particles down the line. As the first filter clogs, it may stop finer particles, but it will also impact the flow rate due to being clogged.

Multiple filters in line are typically either arranged coarser to finer, or are filtering for different things (i.e. physical and then chemical filtration.)

You can get more flow by using finer filters in parallel, or you can use a pressure tank after fine filters to provide a certain amount of filtered water at a high flow rate, before you hit the flow rate of the filter as the pressure tank empties.

Many high-volume water uses do not require superfine filtration - most notably in the average house, toilet flush water is an absurd thing to spend filtration effort/cost on.


How do I install a portable air conditioning unit in a large sliding window?

You could build a wood frame that fits in the window with an interior hole large enough to accommodate the AC unit.  This also has the advantage that you won't have to hold the window open, while juggling the unit into place.  You can install the light weight frame, then slide the unit into place.

I built one when I lived on the second floor of an apartment building, because I was always afraid I would drop the unit out the window while installing it. I used foam tape around the exterior and interior of the frame, to make sure I got a good seal around the window and AC unit.

For a unit that only vents through the window (not sits in it), you could build a smaller frame with a port to allow the vent to pass through.  Filling the interior of the frame with Lexan will reduce the amount of wasted window space.

(You could always use smaller lumber for your frame, if you want it to have a lower profile. The frame size in the image is just an example, to illustrate the idea).


Mount TV in stone facade or drill through to chimney block?

So I took the better-safe-than-sorry approach, used a combination of 12" wood and masonry bits to drill through the facade, plywood backing, and into the blocks of the chimney. I used 3 masonry anchors in the chimney blocks, because I couldn't get a 4th one through the stone where it needed to be. The 3 anchor points are drilled through the mortar. The TV has been hanging for well over a year now, and hasn't fallen yet!


How to clean water softer salt tank without disconnecting?

Try triggering several regeneration cycles. This may flush some of the material out. After that a wet vacuum to suck everything that is left. Added as an answer.


How to get building materials to a difficult to access site?

I suggest a temporary wooden track and a heavy cart, with a winch at one end and a pulley at the other.

You'll need to make about 525 to 530 meters of temporary track.

Build the track to accommodate the width of the cart wheels. This picture is only a suggestion; you should make the track out of material that can be re-used in your renovation if possible.

You'll need about 1050 meters of rope.

Build the track from the road end, and use the cart to transport track material to the unfinished end. Once the track is laid, the first load over it should be the winch. Depending on its design, the winch might be able to pull itself up the slope to the site.

The winch can be rented, probably at the same place where you get the cement mixer. They may be able to rent you the rope too.


What are some methods to get rid of and prevent pink mold in the bathroom?

The pink stuff is a bacterial biofilm. Cleaning agents containing bleach work well to kill the stuff.


Is there an easy way to re-attach the end part of a bathroom pull light switch?

Those are often held on by a knot, if you can open the doodad (assuming it is simply clipped shut) you will be able to thread the string through the hole and make a new knot. With a needle and thread or some glue you can stich/glue the knot to prevent it from undoing again.

There is no need to replace the string itself unless the string is what failed.


Genie SilentMax 1000 will not move up or down

After discussing this with the Doors Unlimited Sevice tech I opted to have the opener replaced. We agreed it could either be in the rpm sensor or the mother board but either way replacing it was the only sure way to fix it.

I will not ever buy another Genie door opener.


Checking my understanding - How to add C-wires for smart thermostat install x3

Your wiring plan looks good and you seem to have a correct understanding of the wiring and how it should work.  That bundle with the one green and 4 reds is the "C" wire.  The color makes it hard to follow in your diagram, but I guess you used real world colors, so that makes sense.

The 24v transformer will be AC power (alternating current), so it doesn't really matter which terminal is R and which is C.  One wire goes to the R terminal on the thermostat and the other one is C.

The W wire controlling the fan is sometimes done for safety to make it impossible to call for heat without the fan also being on.  That can also be done to get away with using one less wire, but either way that happens and I wouldn't worry about "fixing" that unless you have a strong need for turning the fan on by itself.

The transformer only powers a small coil in a relay to turn the devices on and off.  It might also supply a small amount of power to the control boards, and after the update it will supply power to the Nest.  These are all so low power that you shouldn't need to worry about it.  You can check the voltage of the transformer while the system is running to make sure it's not dropping low, but I don't see an issue with what you are planning.

Isolation relay is used if you want to power the thermostat with a different transformer than the equipment.  So, for instance if it was convenient for you to power the upstairs thermostat from the transformer that powers the basement unit, that would be a problem.  The thermostat must be powered by the same transformer as the equipment, which is what you plan on doing.  No addition relays should be needed.


Can I replace 3 switches with one 3 toggle switch

Don't do it! If the devices are on separate circuits, you cannot "tie" them together.

If you're in the USA and use single phase service,  you've likely turned a 120 Volt circuit into a 240 Volt short-circuit. You've directly connected the two legs of the service, causing a short-circuit.

The switch is intended to control three branches of a single circuit.


What type of flooring can be used on a concrete slab?

Tile floors can be installed with a radiant floor heating system such as this one

It is imbedded in the floor below the tiles and is controllable with a wall mounted thermostat. Unless there is significant structural damage to the floor, there is no risk based on dampness.  These are routinely used in bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms.


I have used the Ridgid snake, some similar snakes of other brands, chemicals, CO2 cartridges (after one time when a handyman used them - really amazing when they work!) and at times rented a BIG snake and (for the worst clogs - roots) - hired a handyman or plumber to do the job for me.

I have had every type of sewage backup - hair clogs in the bathtub drain, bathroom sink trap clogs (usually hair, but last one was a bandaid!), kitchen sink pipes (well past the trap, but accessible pipes in the basement below), laundry lint, grease, perler beads (they make quite a strong clog when mixed with lint & grease...) and of course roots. Based on my experience, I would say anything but roots is in the realm of a moderately handy homeowner willing to get his (or her) hands dirty. But the trick is figuring out what type of problem you are having so you can solve it correctly AND to (if possible) prevent it from happening again (e.g., perler bead projects are no longer allowed near the basement floor drain in my house; metal mesh lint trap on washing machine).

The first step is to determine where the problem is - e.g., if the problem only affects the kitchen sink then you know it is between the sink and where the pipes join with the bathroom pipes. Next is to determine what the problem is. If the problem is only the kitchen then is likely grease and/or food scraps - I have learned over the years to minimize what actually goes down the disposal. The Badger 5s are quite powerful, but they can't push food past a real clog, and trying can actually make the clog worse (in my case, the infamous chicken soup clog, but I digress).

If the problem affects kitchen + bathrooms then (a) I doubt the CO2 cartridges will be very effective (but worth a try) and (b) you might need more than the typical cheap 25' manual/power snake both for distance and for power; and then the problem may be roots.

Sorry if this doesn't give a specific definite answer, but basically you need to determine more about what is going wrong before deciding if a 25' snake will likely do the trick. I consider those snakes a good investment - one plumber visit avoided will pay for a snake - but they are definitely not the solution to every clog.


Garage Gym - Mounting Folding Squat Rack to Plasterboard Wall

I have mounted a lot of gym equipment, it's much more demanding that regular construction.  To make it safe, you have to really overbuild.

IMO the challenge here is pullout strength.  The posts of the squat rack are what will carry the weight, but when you rack the weight, it will want to rock significantly.  You have to make sure it does not pull out of the wall or you have a bad situation.

Plan of attack

The way that rack is made, you have four mounting bolts for each of the four points of attachment.  They are not likely to be positioned over studs.  So my thinking is, you want 2x boards on the wall - horizontally, so you can anchor into several studs.  Once they are up, attaching the equipment to the boards will be easy.

I'd say 2x6's will be adequate.  I want to attach them with one toggle bolt and one screw at each stud.

You are going to want boards that are a little over 4' minimum, about 52" is good to hit four studs at the standard 16" on-center spacing.  Depending where the studs fall in relation to the mounting brackets, you might want to go for five studs, so say 68" boards.  It really depends on where the studs are, how wide the rack is, and where you want to place it.

Layout

The first critical step is locating the studs.  Take your time here.  It may be best to make a horizontal cut with a jab saw into the drywall on either side of the stud until you find the studs.  If you make these exploratory cuts behind where the boards will be - at about bracket height - they will be covered up when you're done.

Mark the stud locations with a pencil line from above the top board all the way to the floor.  If you don't want to look at the pencil line when you're done, use masking tape.

Mark the stud lines with horizontal marks where the brackets will fall, then make marks for the top and bottom of the boards.  This is important.

The attachment can be a little tricky but if you do everything in the right order the layout is easy.

Put the boards on the floor and mark the stud locations with a speed square.  Drill two evenly spaced 3/16" pilot holes in the boards for each stud attachment.  If you make the holes 1-1/2" from the edge of the board, that ought to work.

Attaching the boards to the wall

This part can be tricky with steel studs, it may be obvious to you how to lay this out but in case it is not I'll go over the details.

The idea is to first mount the boards to the wall with sheet metal screws, two at each stud, then remove the boards, and replace half those screws with toggles.  This just makes locating the holes for the toggles easy.

You're going to need 16 (or 20) screws, #14 x 3" sheet metal screws, either flat head or hex-washer head.

Drill one pilot hole in the left-most stud for the top left screw.  Swap the drill for the driver and screw the board to the wall.

Use a level, level the board, and drill the next pilot hole through the pilot hole you already have in the board.  Put the level down, get a screw, swap the drill for the driver, screw the board to the wall.  Drill the rest of the pilot holes for that board and drive the screws.  Repeat for the other board.

At this point it's really pretty sturdy but not strong enough for gym equipment.  The toggles will make the difference.

Unscrew all the screws and remove the boards.  Now we install the snaptoggles / easytoggles pictured in the question.  You'll want the 1/4-20 ones, which need a 1/2" pilot hole.  I like the 1/2" stepless drill bits for this, but you can use a 1/2" titanium bit or other metal drilling bit.  Install these in place of the TOP screw at each stud attachment.

You will have to re-drill the top pilot holes on the boards to 1/4" of course.  Re-attach the boards to the wall with the 1/4" bolts included with the snaptoggles and a 1/4" fender washer between the wood and the bolt head.  Don't make them all the way snug yet.  First replace the screws in the bottom holes.  Then go back and snug down the 1/4-20 bolts good and tight, you'll should see the washer deform just slighty.

Now finally - Mount the Equipment

Now the easy part - carefully mount the equipment to the boards with 1/4" x 2" or 2-1/2" lag screws and washers, mark and drill pilot holes first of course.

All the real work is making a solid "foundation" for the equipment mounting.

Easy, right?


Can I use a 110 V GFCI outlet on a 220V service?

No, no, no. Ignoring legalities, there's circuitry inside a GFCI. If it's designed to run with 110VAC, and you apply 220VAC, you'll let the magic smoke out of the device (and perhaps out of your home and loved ones).


What you have is a plain switch, a dumb 12VAC transformer for the pool lights (finally, someone who takes pool safety seriously, yay!) and several "smart" LED lights with a trick.  They can change colors if power is interrupted for a moment.  And they can all do this in sync, which is usually the hard part.

You are now implementing a "connected home" platform, and you'd like to control these LEDs.  You're looking for some sort of glue/middleware device that will let Wink address the LEDs and change their colors.  Nope.

Not supported

You can put a smart-switch on their supply, sure.  You can have the Wink switch them on and off, sure.  Wink might even be able to turn them on and off quickly, as needed to switch their colors.  But Wink won't understand what it's doing or why it's doing it.

There won't be a way to tell Wink "make the pool orange" and have it tip-tap out the command to make those lights orange.  There may, but it would involve some special software coding; the question is whether Wink gives you the platform/language to do that.  Such a command series would not remember where the lamps are now, and certainly can't see them, so it would have to start the sequence from a cold reset-to-white, so it would take 10-15 seconds to reach any particular color.  On the other hand, Christmas light controllers do that kind of thing for breakfast, so maybe.

This is a hard problem, and it is unsupported: there's nobody to call for support to make this work, as you are discovering.

Though, given the cost of these things, it might be worth contacting the factory.  You can bet this has come up before.  They might even have a solution, or be motivated to develop one.  Their customer base are exactly the sort to do smart-home tech.

Or start over

One could go with LED lights designed to work with Wink -- or alternately, a controller designed to work with Wink.  I don't think you care if they're individually addressible, so that's a plus.  The big minus would be if this forces you to 120V lights - because you are quite correct to keep 120V away from your pool.  Electricity is much more lethal in water, because you can't pull your hand away, and it only needs to stun you to drown you.

The good news is if you can get a Lutron dimmer that plays with Wink, maybe you can find an RGB controller that works with Wink too.  I have started to see them from name-brand companies, so hopefully.  Those controllers are designed for LED strips, input 12 volts DC, and output 3 channels (4 wires, R G B and common) which go direct to simple LEDs. That would require you to run 4-wire cable down to each of your pool light locations (I sure hope they're in conduit).  And thermostat cable would suffice since you're at 12V.


How does a gas water heater thermostat and gas valve work?

There are three things with "thermo" that you need to be aware of. Thermistor, Thermocouple, and Thermopile.

You know what a thermistor is.  A Thermocouple generates voltage when its heated, and the voltage varies with the heat.  A Thermopile is a collection of thermocouples (in a single package) that generates more voltage.

So, the voltage to open the valves comes from thermocouples and the heat comes from a pilot light.

You know how when you light a water heater you have to hold down that button for a long time to get it to stay on?  Well the button manually opens the pilot light valve and you have to hold it on long enough for the thermopile to heat up and take over the job.  Once it's up to heat, it keeps the pilot light valve open and provides voltage for the other controls.  Also, if the pilot light goes out, voltage drops, and all the valves remain safely closed until it is re-lit.


How can I remotely control electrical devices?

There are a large number of ways to do this - lots of people DIY it, but there are very simple commercial solutions out there too.

X10 is probably the best known standard.

Have a look at the UK home automation site for lots of info.

A bit more fun if you are a gadget freak or a tinkerer is Electric Imp - started by a guy from google and the guy who designed most of the iPhone hardware (as well as designing the best car stereo ever - even now 15 years later) - this device lets you make any device in your house Internet controllable :-)


How do you insulate your pipes to protect against freezing?

Something like this foam pipe insulation should do the job:

Source - UK site, but you should be able to source this in the States.

It's split down the length so you can wrap it round existing pipes. It's flexible and easily cut so you can do corners and bends too. You might need to tape it a regular intervals to keep the insulation in place if there's not a lot of room between the pipes and any walls/beams.


What was pre-existing in that box was a switch loop, however, it was botched rather badly... if it were hooked up that way, the switch would switch neutral, which is wrong.

Wires enter a box in cables.  This implies a wire grouping, and the grouping is important.  For instance your box has 2 cables that each look like this.

(Yours probably doesn't have the red wire).

The cable with the "live" black is supply/always-hot. It has a partner "white wire" which is supply/neutral. (which, to belabor the point, is in the same cable as the black.

The dead cable is switch loop, and its white wire should be tagged with black electrical tape because it will be used as an always-hot wire.  This tag should be done on both ends, but at least do it here.

Now join the two always-hots (black and remarked white) and push those wires into the back of the box.

What remains is a black from the switch loop and a white from supply.  Hook this up exactly as you'd expect.

White is used for always-hot to make it more obvious it's been re-tasked as a hot.  If white were the switched-hot, it would appear cold with the switch off (while black would appear hot) and people would mistake it for neutral.  Also, re-marked white wires are required to be re-marked to indicate they are hots.  This is the only remarking allowed in electrical, and only in cables.


How can I prevent moisture from damaging my tools overnight?

As you said, until the tools warm up, you will have condensation problems. Cold tools and warm air will always give you condensation problems. The only option is to prevent your tools from getting that cold.

Using heat to protect expensive/precision tools is nothing new and is commonly done to preserve firearms. I use this GoldenRod heater type dehumidifier http://amzn.to/2utHyWQ to protect machine tools with exposed metal surfaces like lathes from the dangers of condensation corrosion.
I have even seen these heater bars used on pianos to protect the wooden structure.

I suggest you place them in or under your tool racks and leave it plugged in overnight. These simple resistance heaters can also be hooked up to a 12v line, though it would most likely only output 10% of the original amount of heat when done so.

Then again most of my hand tools and even the vast majority of my power tools seem to be unaffected by condensation/moisture/rain. The only things that get their own heater are the expensive precision tools and measuring devices.


Can I split the direct wire to dishwasher to handle a garbage disposal as well?

I only have 2005 NEC handy, but there's nothing there against using same circuit for both dishwasher and disposal.

210.23(A) Branch circuits, rated 20 or 15 amperes may feed lighting units, utilization equipment or combination of both. The rating of of any one cord and plug connected utilization equipment shall not exceed 80% of the branch circuit ampere rating.

Your local code could be different, of course.
Also note, that your garbage disposal needs a disconnect switch


Where to locate p trap and venting in complicated washing machine installation? See sketch

To do this right, you'll likely have to install a whole drain system for the washer.  You'll install a new vent (according to local codes), and a new drain line that attaches to the existing drainage system (in a code compliant way). Then you'll install a standpipe with a trap, that the washer can discharge to.


Is this an acceptable way to fix garage roof condensation?

That material looks very similar to what I used to cure a condensation problem with my air ducts.  I live in a humid area and the attic is not insulated from the outside. So using the a/c would cause condensation to form on the ductwork and drip on the drywall below.  Your situation sounds similar.  If you line the metal roof with that material, it should reduce the amount of moist, inside air coming into contact with the cold roofing (where it sounds like it is condensing).

I'm not sure how easy it'll be to apply a flexible material like that to the underside of a corrugated roof, however.  You might want to look for a hard foam instead.  As for the mold concern, if you seal all the edges of the insulation with tape (use the silver metallic kind used for HVAC), that should prevent air exchange.  The temperature between the underside of the roof and the roof-side of the insulation will be less extreme than the inside of the garage or the exterior of the roof and less likely to produce condensation.  That said, it might still be a good idea to inspect it occassional.  And all of this is assuming that you really do have a condensation problem and not just a leaky roof.  - Good luck.


How to hang a projector screen (cloth) with a few inches away from the wall?

I would fasten a "furring strip" (a piece of perhaps 2x2) to the wall at the top of the screen. Make it the same width as the screen, but screw it into the studs inside the wall (NOT just into the drywall sheet-rock)  Then hang the screen from that.

I would paint the strip black before installation to minimize visual interference. Depending on what kind of screen you are talking about (not disclosed?) you could put another identical strip at the bottom and actually STRETCH the screen fabric between the top "rail" and the bottom "rail". That would keep it nice and tight and wrinkle-free.


Converting two three-way switches to a single dimmer

Never gonna work.  Take the dimmer back and get the right thing.  It won't be the first one the shop has taken back for that reason.

But, know this -- a dimmer switch that works with an old-style 3-way** is a hard problem.  The device that can solve it is sophisticated.  Basically it has to be able to power itself off either of the two travelers, supply the light from the traveler that is hot, and treat a change in traveler as a command to "invert" its on/off state, while remembering its dim setting.   All this to support a very obsolete way of doing that thing.

In this day-and-age, you are far better off going with a dimming smart switch and a matching "remote".  Make sure it's a model that plays well with your LEDs.  The remote can also dim, so you don't have to cross the room to set light level.  You could set it from your phone depending on the model you get.

Think about a going with a standardized system like Z-wave or Zigbee, so everything in your house could talk to each other and your phones.

** 3-way is the American term.  The British term is 2-way.


Increase size of ceiling joist compromise roof strength?

You don't have joists or rafters. You have engineered roof trusses. The bottom chords are 2x4 because that's all that's required for your scenario. They don't span the ceiling themselves. They're part of a rigid structure that's supported by both the top chords and the diagonal truss members. This is typical and has been standard practice since the 1970s with virtually no static failures on record.

Some trusses, in the case of very large spans or girders (which are sometimes doubled or tripled), are designed with 2x6 or 2x8 bottom chords. But for common trusses in modestly-sized homes 2x4 is standard.

The blocking was probably added to support a particular ceiling finish--tiles or wood panels, for example. Unless you have a particular need for more weight-bearing capacity, leave things alone. If you do, consult a licensed engineer who will examine things much more closely than we're able to from one shady photo.


running low voltage wire from outside to inside

I'd seal around the cable with duct seal, instead of silicone.

It stays pliable, and will not interact with the cable jacket.


How can I put a picture frame on the floor

I would get a roll of self adhesive Velcro. Put a horizontal stripe on the wall and then a small piece on the back of the picture. When you want to move pull out slide over and restick.


What do volts and amps imply for angle grinders?

Electric angle grinders are very useful tools, they can also be extremely dangerous. First and foremost, select a tool with as many of the latest safety features as you can afford:

an integral clutch that disengages the drive-line upon wheel bind
a "slow-start" or "soft-start" feature
NO "lock-on" button
a "deadman" trigger or lever feature (shuts off if you let go)
an easily adjustable guard (no tools required)
auto-braking

Buy gloves, goggles and dust mask when you buy the tool

Amps indicate the power that the motor draws during use and generally indicates the size and power of the motor (higher is "better"). I personally think a well built tool with the features I want and which is comfortable for me to hold and use is more important than the amp rating. If you are routinely grinding and cutting thick heavy hard metal materials you might consider a bigger/more powerful machine.

Voltage should be whatever your household current is (220-240vt angle grinder would not be practical for home or general shop use, pretty much industrial only)


Should I fill in 15-20 nail holes in my roof underlayment? If so, how?

Yes, I would repair it with the same, or similar underlayment if I could. I would create small round patches, about 4 - 5  inches in diameter and then glue them down with a caulk that can stand up to those temperatures. Most roofing caulks would work well. Just be sure to make the job as smooth as possible; wipe away any excess caulk.


What is this sanding disc and where could I find one?

That looks exactly like a Porter Cable paint remover disk, at a glance. 24, 36 or 48 grit, $20 bucks or so.

The tool it's made for: the Porter-cable 7403 abrasive paint remover. There probably is a backing pad that supports the disc.

Here's the pad:

Not affiliated, don't own one, do own some other Porter-Cable tools, happened to notice these discs when looking for some sanding supplies once.


Peel back the side of the carpet just enough so you can see if the tread has been dadoed (sits in a trough) into the stringer.  If not, the tread is likely just nailed onto the riser and can be gradually popped off using a hammer and a block of wood under under the tread lip.  If the next riser is on top of the tread rear, the nails holding the two parts may have to be cut with reciprocating saw or sabre saw (if you're good!)  Can't say where the nails will be, locations vary.

If the tread is in a dado on both sides, a piece will have to be cut from the middle front to back and the three pieces pulled out.  Your stairs look like typical stairs intended for carpeting.  Often, what looks like a stringer is a trim plate slid between stairs and the true stringer and disassembly is easy.  The outside has an identical trim plate running top to bottom.


Can I replace a standard outlet that's protected with an upstream GFCI to prevent nuisance trips?

If I were you, I'd remove the GFCI from the circuit (nut the wires together and make it separate, as in don't use the LOAD screws) and then put a separate GFCI in the other bathroom in the same way. It's expensive (and unnecessary) but you avoid having a bathroom outlet inexplicably going dead (trip the GFCI bathroom outlet directly and your normal outlet goes out). This way, each GFCI can trip independently of the other.

As to nuisance trips, assuming you have no wiring issues, the GFCI might be going bad. Replacing it isn't a bad idea.


What to seal new butcher block type counter top

Mineral oil if you intend to actually use it as a food prep surface; tung (or linseed, or danish, or other) oil if you are truly wasting a butcher block for use as a work bench...


Do washing-machines provide a AC connector which is live when the machine is working?

No, they don't generally have such an outlet.

Perhaps you are looking for an Automatic Washing Machine Shutoff Valve? These devices sense when the washing machine is using electricity and open the water supply valves. Once the machine stops using electricity (i.e., the cycle is done) then the valves shut. Many models also include additional features such as water sensors for the floor, and timers that close the valve after x minutes even if the washing machine is still pulling current.


These are security screws and are designed to not be removed.

Common methods are:

Drill the screw head out
Cut a new slot
Use extractor tools (these are of questionable utility)
Grasp the sides of the head (hard, it was designed to resist this kind of removal)
Get behind the screw and cut it off. This is a good option if you're going to tear out the wood on the wall anyway.

In your case, could you consider leaving it in place? Even if you do not have the small arms it was originally designed to secure, having a solid, secure mounting point can secure things like valuables, bikes, strongboxes, or safes.


Where is the best place to store firewood outdoors relative to your house?

Storing your firewood on an elevated rack should alleviate most insect problems.  The wood should not be in direct contact with the ground or with a structure.  Leave enough of a gap to promote air flow around the stack.

Rotate your firewood from season to season (do not stack new firewood on top of old).

If you live in a termite prone area (the southeast or California), you may want to keep your stack further away from buildings, in case they do get a hold of the wood.


2 wire thermostat wire want to be able to select fan only

Your furnace has fan terminals, thankfully
The good news is that your furnace has a fan (G) terminal and corresponding Rc and C terminals, found on the relay module depicted in your second photo.  The bad news is that the combustion controller is totally separate from the fan relay in your setup, so you'll need to wire this a bit differently from a standard furnace.  First off, your thermostat will need to be set up for two-transformer operation by moving a slider, removing a jumper link, or flipping a switch; the instructions should document how this is done.  Once that is done, you can wire yellow to Rc, green to G, and blue to C at each end, with the white wire going to W/W1 on the thermostat and one T terminal on the combustion controller, and the red wire going to Rh on the thermostat and the other T terminal on the combustion controller.
Note that while a 5-wire cable will get the job done here, it may be a better choice to put a fatter thermostat cable, such as an 8-wire or even a 10-wire, in now so that the wires are available for a future HVAC upgrade, such as fitting a heat pump.  Also note that if you're having trouble getting the heat to work, you may need to swap the red and white wires at the combustion control end (one of them is Rh and the other W, but your combustion controller doesn't differentiate between the two, while your thermostat just might).


Could be the defrost timer, the heating element, the defrost thermostat, or a combination of those. My previous fridge did this same thing...Old Kenmore. I replaced the defrost thermostat and the timer and it's been working fine for almost a year.


The capacitor is the most likely culprit . They are easy to change out (with the power off). They are usually silver cans with several connections on 1 end. You need to find the size it will be something like 15mfd then the voltage. It may be a dual element then there will be 2 numbers like 15 - 28 mfd.
Make sure to write down the terminals the diferent wires go to so you get them correct on the new one. The caps can be found on line for the best price.


How do i reduce and split hvac duct from 8" round into two rooms

There are split systems and mini split systems these are different creatures.
A split system with an air handler/ plenum in your case is a small split.
A mini split has all the controls in the head unit and are not designed to be in a plenum.
If you have a small split you can divert some of the air flow to another zone but remember there also needs to be a way for the air to return to the handler or that room will pressurize and then have no real flow.
As for voices being to be heard at vents this flaw is in all central heating or air systems the type of ducting or baffles can reduce the sound transmission but this is an art all its own because baffles cause resistance. And without a diagram of the existing plenum it would be hard to guess at the best method.


Can I switch the hot and cold water supply to improve the pressure of hot?

Your question boils down to "please validate my wonky idea" and I will absolutely NOT.
Yes, you can do it but you shouldn't. At best your proposal is something that would be done in a super emergency situation.

You can switch the hot and cold lines at the tank but that would really be quite an obtuse solution. So now your cold valve gives hot water and the hot valve gives cold water? Good luck getting the proper temperature from your shower if you have an anti-scald valve installed.
Sounds like a surefire way to deter the average buyers and lower your home's value.
I think you will find that by the time you've acquired the right tools to perform a wonky cutover then the cost of materials to just do things properly is insignificant.
PEX has made plumbing so easy that it's almost hard to screw up.


I'm going to go with... It's a smoke/heat/CO alarm relay. There are many different types and they all look different. This is quote from the Kiddie website "This module is only activated by a smoke alarm interconnect signal. The relay portion of this module can be used to activate auxiliary warning devices such as external bells and sirens, hallway or stairwell lighting. It provides isolated, (no internal connection to 120 volts AC) normally open, and normally closed contacts"


Fixing minor tape blemishes/bubbling after a fresh paint job

Unless the tape is badly torn up or loose, just sand high spots and then put one or two coats of drywall compound over it. I have no experience using DAP spackle as joint compound - mostly because I'm a professional and just use joint compound for joints. Spackle is more expensive when you're dealing with large quantities.

It would make a better job to go two coats - one feathered out eight inches each way and about 1/16" thick in the middle, and then the second coat feathered out 10-12 inches. But you could get away with one coat feathered out 10-12 inches, and flattened off at 1/16" thick for the middle 4 inches or so.


Is using a single hanger plus a framing angle on a double member sufficient

No, it is lazy. A double joist hanger should be used for a double joist with few exceptions. Whether it is legal or not depends on how your state and local community have developed, adopted, and interpret building codes. From a structural standpoint it may be insignificant under certain conditions.
Is it worrisome: an engineer would be your best source but generally no if the structure is maintained and you inspect it regularly. Joist hangers are a component of a system and their absence or improper installation don't mean catastrophic failure by themselves. It is not uncommon in older structures to see double joists tied into single joists to avoid an obstacle. All without hangers.


What to do with metal frame for clothesline?

Some might not like the looks; if they're not being used just dig them up. They may have a chunk of concrete that may be as deep as 2 feet.

At my last house I ran a steel wire on both ends then planted string beans with twine from the ground up. Way two many beans but it was fun.


What could be causing water pressure drop with sprinklers?

Water pressure drops come from two sources:

1) A constriction in the line upstream, limiting the maximum inflow you can get.

2) More demand on the line, producing more outflow than the inflow can fully pressurize.

If a sprinkler zone is larger (serves too many heads), or if more zones are active at once, it will demand more water. Dividing the zone could be one solution.

If a sprinkler zone's pipe is kinked or otherwise obstructed, it may not be able to deliver as much water as is needed to fully pressurize the line.

If running the sprinklers reduces pressure at the sink, the point limiting that is going to be upstream of both, and you're probably also seeing pressure drops at the sink when you flush a toilet or run a bath. You can check for restrictions working back toward the source (valves not fully open, for example), but if the shared flow limit is what's coming into the foundation...


What would be the potential pitfalls in pouring a concrete patio over deck footings and then securing the posts to the slab?

I think your approach is right on target. Follow FreeMan's suggestion to embed bolts in the footings to attach your base plate for each post. It's unlikely that you'll have serious frost issues as long as you:

Make sure your support piers are below frostline - in my area it's 36".
Be certain to properly lay the patio base with a solid, self-draining material such as sand or fine granite.

If you're particularly concerned about frost heave you might want to consider going to 6" depth on the patio.


How do I replace and insert what kind of missing pin - bolt in a home fused disconnect box?

Contact the manufacturer.  These things are not listed for unit repair using random hardware store parts.  Expect Hydro to disapprove any funny looking repairs.

That is not simply a lever.  There's a mechanism in there, that is important to the ability to "break" high current flows.

Do not attempt any repair without consulting with the manufacturer. If this is a common thing with an easy and proper fix, they will have it.

Regardless, this job is a big problem because this equipment is hot at all times.  If it's before the meter, even pulling the meter will not de-energize it; which makes working on it a dicey affair even for an electrician.  This is an unfused load that could pull as much as 25,000 amps straight off the transformer.  At this scale, arc-flash gets serious.

It is excessively rare for me to say "this should not be DIYed", but if pulling the meter won't de-energize it, I so say.  In that case, to de-energize it, they would need to get in a bucket and go unhook it from the pole line.  Once thus de-energized, have a field day, but again don't do any repairs the manufacturer doesn't endorse. I would sooner just replace the box with one that will be reliable.


How do I use a floor nailer near the wall?

Usually you can hand toenail all but the last two rows, thus hiding the nails. Pre-drill pilot holes just above the tongue (same angle and placement as nailer would have done) and set the nails. You can use a wedge and blocks to tighten and hold the slats for nailing.  The last couple of rows should be glued and face nailed. Counter sink the nails and fill with a matching filler. If the floor is prefinished, then the manufactured probably offers a matching filler.  If it is unfinished, be sure to use a stain-able filler.


Why do screws have lower shear strength than nails?

Answering the question asked, without reference to video posted:

Posit a nail and a screw made from exactly the same material.

Observe the shape. One is a smooth cylinder, one has many sharp deformations arranged in a helical manner.

Even if the screw is sized such that the unthreaded core is the same size as the nail (which would make a much larger screw than nail) the sharp discontinuities of the threads concentrate stresses applied perpendicular (in shear) to the axis of the screw, while the smooth surface of the nail does not concentrate those stresses. Google "Stress riser" for more insight...

In short, the shape makes the screw weaker in that direction.


The two leads going into the gas valve should read 24 volts for about half a second just before it shuts off again if that's the case then your gas valve is no good. If you don't get 24 volts for half a second or so just before the igniter shuts off then the problem is Upstream. Possibly a pressure sensing device attached to the gas pipe doesn't allow the gas valve to open if the propane pressure is too low I don't think Goodman and uses that set up for propane conversions) you may have an issue with your circuit board. Often grounding will be the first thing people jump to, but in most cases a grounding issue causes trouble with sensing the flame. What would happen is the flame would light and then go out that's not the case here.


How to prepare my floor to install engineered hardwood?

After calling around, I found a shop in my area that sells plywood underlayment that is 5mm thick, which is close enough to 3/16" for me to use to raise my kitchen floor.

As for installing engineered hardwood on top of existing solid hardwood, I've been advised it's okay when nailing since the material just needs to be void free and substantial enough to take the nails.

If I were floating or gluing my flooring, but not nailing, I could raise the kitchen area with self-leveling compound, but no idea if that'd be any cheaper, easier to do or overall better. The underlayment plywood I found is $14 for a 4' x 8' sheet, so it's cheap, easy to fix to the floor, and should work well for nailing, floating or gluing flooring on top of. Seems like the plywood wins in all areas.


The National Electrical Code defines a Multi-wire branch circuit as follows.

Branch Circuit, Multiwire. A branch circuit that consists of two or more ungrounded conductors that have a voltage between them, and a grounded conductor that has equal voltage between it and each ungrounded conductor of the circuit and that is connected to the neutral or grounded conductor of the system

Background
In the US, residential dwellings are often supplied using a 120/240V single split-phase system.  This system consists of two ungrounded (hot) conductors, and a grounded (neutral) conductor (which is a center tap on the transformer).
Multi-wire branch circuits
A Multi-wire branch circuit takes advantage of this, by extending both ungrounded conductors and sharing a single grounded (neutral) conductor. So instead of having two circuits requiring four conductors, you can have two circuits with only three conductors.
How to recognize them
Multi-wire branch circuits will typically be supplied by two adjacent breakers in a panel, and will often be fed using 3-wire plus ground cable.
If the circuit was installed properly, the breakers handles should be tied together or a double pole breaker will be used.
What to worry about

If you're working on the circuit, you'll want to make sure both breakers are off.
You should never disconnect the grounded (neutral) conductor, while the breakers are on.
You'll have to take care installing GFCI devices, as it can be a bit tricky.
You'll have to make sure the ungrounded conductors come from separate legs of the service.


How can I find the centre of a round table?

I think this technique using chords with 90 degree lines is probably the easiest to do because it involves standard construction tools and can compensate for inprecise measurements.

You just need a square, a measuring tape and a straight edge. (A large enough carpenter's square is all of these in one tool)

Draw two arbitrary chords (lines across) anywhere on the circle. Note the chords don't have to be the same length or lined up to each other in any way.
Find the exact center of each line
Use a square to project a second line towards the center of the circle at exactly a 90 degree angle to the chord
Where the projected lines overlap is the center

You can repeat with additional chords get the center more accurately (which can compensate for any deviation in finding the chord center or getting an exact 90 degree angle)


Is there a way to diagnose ceiling fan 3 speed switch wires?

Go looking for a circuit diagram for your exact model of fan (probably findable on the manufacturer's website) that will tell you how the old switch was connected, which will provide the info needed to connect the new switch. We've discussed this before, but the Android app makes searching for and linking to the previous answer somewhat annoying so I'll leave it o others to provide that link.


Here is the site I used just two months ago for a part. Most Moen faucets are guaranteed for life. Let us know what happens. Good luck.

https://www.moen.com/parts


Oven pilot making high pitched noise (when off)

I had the same situation a number of years ago with the pilot on a gas furnace. Since the furnace was next to a bedroom it was very irritating at night.
The solution: The gas pressure to the pilot needs to be reduced slightly. Locate the gas shutoff valve for the stove. Lower the pressure of the gas to the pilot by slightly closing the valve. You shouldn't have to turn it very much. I'm betting that will solve your problem.


one gang wall plate with three toggle switches

You may need to replace your existing triple-pole triple-throw switch with a more modern version that takes a standard Decora front plate.

Eaton makes such a switch, it's available from Home Depot model number 7729W-SP, and looks like this:

Then you just need a Decora front plate like this:


How to prepare vertical brick surface so Portland cement based mixtures (concrete, mortar) will adhere properly?

Make sure that they are neither bone-dry nor dripping wet, either of which interferes with getting a proper bond. Damp is good. Recall (or learn) that mortar and concrete do not, as commonly misnomered, "dry" to set, they hydrate to cure, in a chemical reaction where crystals grow throughout the mass, and that needs water to work. A common problem with casual brickwork is excessively dry bricks that suck the water out of the mortar and prevent it from curing properly.
There is also a matter of technique to get mortar to stick to a vertical surface - it wants to be thrown or slapped on and spread out, not applied in a tentative manner.


It sounds like a possibility that the valve may not be open completely, or a small debris plug. Make sure the valves under the sink are open completely. If no change, turn them off, disconnect them and look for an online water filter and make sure it is clean. If no filter, or it is clean, then check the faucet valve. Again disassemble the valve (handle assembly) and look for debris. 1 or both of these could be your issue. Do the same on the other faucet. If after these checks and cleanings, thing don't improve, then your shut off valve under the sink could be blocked with debris. Same check applies here except you need to make sure the water is shut off to the house first. Make sure all your joints you disconnect are tightened completely before restoring water.


Mixing White Paint into Ceiling Knockdown Mud

I have added paint to mud with mixed results. The mud dilutes the paint color making it hard to match areas that are not sprayed. I have had good luck adding primer to mudd that appeared to reduce the ussage of primer before painting but probably the total amount of primer was about the same. 1 note of caution. With straight mud overspray is really easy to clean when paint is added now cleanup of overspray is a bear. Calculating the amount of mud is hard to guess because we don't know if you want orange peal (a light texture) or a heavy plaster knock down look (heavy texture). Drywall mud usually drys chalk white, much like the center between the paper.


how to make a half circle tunnel through a cement slab?

Rather than try to shape the slab so it conforms to the pipe, cut the slab slightly wider and deeper than the pipe. Mix a loose batch of cement, pour into slab cut, and embed pipe into concrete.


Can I use sewer cleanout as washing machine water outlet

Not a 100% definite answer (I am not a plumber or a code expert), but I would be concerned about a trap. Or rather, a lack thereof. A plumbing fixture - sink, shower, bathtub, dishwasher, laundry drain, etc. normally has a trap that fills with water and keeps sewer gas from getting into the building. A cleanout, by its nature, will likely have a straight shot down the drain pipe - i.e., you would not want to have a trap in a cleanout because it would make it much harder to clean out.


Wall switch no longer used, how to cover it

You need a "switch dummy". Also commonly called a "switch blank", "blank insert" and "blank filler".

The big box stores may not carry this item, if not, electrical supply house should have available.


Is there an online way to check my appliance power usage?

Make sure the appliance is Energy Star qualified. If it is, it should have a yellow Energy Guidance label that lists annual energy consumption.


Trying to install Kasa smart switch but having trouble with ground wire

Edit: switches (not receptacles) are allowed to make a ground connection via the mounting screws, even if the switch body doesn't rest hard against the metal  junction box.  So that solves that.

Ground wires are always green, green/yellow, or bare copper, except in old installations in Russia.  Ground wires usually go onto green screws.  Use of stab connections for grounds is prohibited because of their unreliability.


What kind of screws are used for the door knob of an interior door?

Thanks for all of the answers.  After bringing the door knob to Home Depot, I ended up buying #8-32 x 1" brass round-head machine screws, which worked perfectly.


How to fix BBQ: re-insert metal cylinder that came off partially

Don't fix it; get it replaced or return it:

If you can wait a couple weeks, then don't repair it (it likely will just happen again now that it's loose), rather call the manufacturer and tell them what happened and ask if you should return it to the store.  For large items that can be purchased at a home store 99 times out of 100, they'll send you a new one in less than a week.

If they tell you they can't help, then do everyone else a favor and return it. Usually, this kind of thing goes back upstream to the manufacturer to fix (and pay the associated shipping fees to the big box store). Stores that don't have this kind of agreement in place with their supplier will quickly learn to stop buying this model/brand.

As a last resort, buy the same one from a big box store and return this one.  Think of it as your civic duty so the rest of us don't end up with this same sub-par product.

Note: Try not to do this with Amazon unless the item is "sold and shipped by amazon.com" as many things on Amazon are sold by 3rd parties that don't have the buying power to negotiate with the manufacturer.

If you really want to try to fix it - CLEAN IT:

Clean it, apply WD-40 to the outside and inside, then cool it don't heat it.

Heat expands the metal in both directions effectively making your cylinder larger and cap smaller. Try the freezer, if that doesn't work, use dry ice.

Further, if you can rotate the cylinder such that the seam is inside the cap, that should help a lot as well.


How can I prevent water from flowing into my carport under the wall plate?

I would consiter putting in a temporary wall a foot back. Remove the existing wall Or at least the rotted  wood cut it off at the bottom and pour a new stem wall that is taller. With the best method being to dig a new footing and put some perf pipe in a sock at the edge of the footing for drainage (Basicly a French drain). With a new stem wall the water won't be able to rot out the sill plate, with drainage the wall should not weep.


What is proper ratio of sand to portland cement to use for repairing a 30 yr old stone wall

Since you asked it's 6 parts sand/1 part cement/1 part hydrated lime; it won't stick without the lime. Unless you absolutely need to use a specific sand you're much better off buying a bag of premixed mortar. You can take a piece of the existing mortar to a masonry yard and get a color matched dye if you need an invisible repair.

A helpful pneumonic device for mortar is "MaSoN wOrK." The capital letters represent the standard mixes in decreasing order of compressive strength.

Type M has the most cement and is used almost exclusively below grade.
Type S has the highest tensile strength and is used for outdoor load-bearing work such as retaining walls.
Type N, the 6:1:1 mix above, is used indoors and out for soft stone and brick work.
Type O is limited to non-bearing use indoors.
Type K isn't a thing anymore, outside of restorations. As you get to this end of the spectrum there's less cement and more lime so things are a sticky mess.

You'll find bags of Type S and Type N in the home center. You can use the same mixture all over the wall. I'd suggest N based on your description.


What is my power company referring to as the "electrical stack on pole"?

service entrance power drop; the point past which you're responsible for.

(source)


OK - Either this is a huge optical illusion or my eyes tell me that the window looks like it is being squeezed at the bottom.

It is simple - windows should never crack like this unless something hits it or it goes through a major earthquake.   Let's remove the issues with your house.   It looks like there is movement and it looks like this may be seasonal/temp related.   This is completely out of scope for the window issue.   You may have a huge foundation issue, maybe it is no big deal - doesn't matter.

You need a new window.  It needs to be sized correctly.   There should be space on at least one of the sides and either top or bottom.   Windows are not packed into an opening.   They are put into an opening and screwed into place using shims.   This is to give the window the ability to move and to get a more plumb install.

The other option that you have it is use the same window but shave off room on the outside - I do not recommend this though because it could decrease the integrity of the unit which seems to already have issues.   But if you keep putting glass panes in there they will certainly keep breaking.


AFAIR, asbestos mastic is much more likely with tile (which may itself contain asbestos) - I would not expect it under carpet, other than as a remnant of a prior tile job (no sign of that here.) And, as you have noted, it doesn't look like it.

While you could engage full paranoia (as the folks that make money from it like) and have it tested, you can probably remove it without too much concern, and if it's "gummy" you might want to take a "solvent and wipe up" approach anyway, which would minimize anything getting in the air.


How do I unclog underground downspout pipes?

I ran into the same situation on two of my own houses.  I knew where the exits were, but they were long runs, with extended, packed blockage (probably never cleared).  Initial attempts at clearing them with plumbing snakes and special hose nozzles didn't make much of a dent.

You've got nothing to lose trying to clear the pipes.  But if they have many years of build-up that has turned into a giant solid plug, and efforts to clear them don't seem to get anywhere, it may not be worth the time to clear them. That's especially true if you don't own serious pipe cleanout equipment.  You can get them professionally reamed out, but that isn't cheap.

At one house, I just dug up the buried pipe and replaced it.  If you're careful, you can put the dirt and sod back.  That took about the same amount of time that I had already spent trying to clear them, and was cheaper than getting them professionally cleared.

If you attempt to clear the pipe with a snake or hose attachment, can locate the plug and determine how long it is, it might save a little work to cut out and replace that section if it is at one end of the pipe.

At the other house, I abandoned it in place and just used downspout extenders.


What type of hurricane protection offers the best ease of deployment?

Speed of deployment in the event of a storm - permanently installed sliding/folding metal hurricane shutters, hands down. Always ready, 30 seconds or less per opening to pull them and lock them in place. Not too much of an eyesore if in an area where they are ever needed. They also don't need to be stored, found, and installed when needed, as they are there, always.


Is there a standard hole diameter for corner braces?

There are no standard sizes.

Braces of the type you are considering most commonly have holes that are less than 1/4" and more than 1/8", somewhere around 3/16".  They are usually intended for #6, #8 or #10 screws. You could probably use 1/8" bolts, or maybe 3/16" depending on the brace. 1/4" bolts probably won't fit unless you ream out the holes.

Which bolts will be sufficient depends on how much strain will be on them and how many braces you are using.


110v Gas Range to existing 220v NEMA 10-50 outlet

There is no way to do this with adapters.

I take it there's no ground wire in your receptacle junction box.

Neutrals are white or gray.  Grounds are green or bare.  Any other color is a "hot" and there's no standard.  Your two  "hots" might both be black, might both be red, might be red and black, who knows.

In every case you'll tear out the NEMA 10-50 receptacle and throw it in the trash.  That is a dangerous and obsolete outlet, you'll never use it again.

In every case you'll need to change the 40A or 50A breaker in the service panel to a 15A or 20A breaker.   If you know what you're doing, you can make it a single-pole breaker and cap off the unused "hot" and install a cover or spare breaker in the now-empty hole.

You may run into wires that won't fit on outlet terminals.  In that case, get a short length of the smaller wire, wire-nut the fat wire to one end, and put the other end into the screw terminal of the outlet.  Done.

Option 1: Replace with GFCI

Get a GFCI outlet.   Make all your connections to the "LINE" side.

Hot (brass terminal) goes to one of the "hot" wires. Neutral (silver terminal) goes to neutral obviously.  Button it up; done.   Put the "No Equipment Ground" sticker on the GFCI outlet.

This provides no grounding whatsoever to the stove, but gives protection by sensing current leakage.  If you get shocked, it'll turn the power off very quickly.

Option 2: Normal outlet, steal a ground.

Illegal until your town adopts NEC 2014.

Hot (brass terminal) goes to one of the "hot" wires. Neutral (silver terminal) goes to neutral obviously.   Bring a ground wire over from wherever you can using any route that works and is legal.  The ground wire can go to any other grounded circuit whose breaker is in the same panel.  It doesn't need to follow the same route as the original wires, but it'll help the next guy understand if you do.

This answer also applies if, by luck, there's already a ground wire or solid metal conduit back to the panel.  You get the ground right there.

Option 3: Re-task wires (illegal)

Illegal because it's illegal to re-mark a "hot" wire to be a neutral or a neutral to be a ground.  It's not dangerous to users (if wired right) but it could create a problem if another person later works on the wiring and makes a misconnection because he didn't understand what was done.  NFPA's logic is "thinner wires are cheap, just use the right colors, darn it."

You must tear out the 2-pole breaker and replace it with a 1-pole breaker.   Mark one of the "hot" wires with white tape - this is now neutral.  Tear all the insulation off the neutral wire - this is now ground.  Move the new-ground wire to the ground bus (may be the same) and the new-neutral wire to the neutral bus.

Now, up at the receptacle, figure out which "hot" is still hot and which was re-tasked to neutral.  There should be 0 ohms between neutral and ground, and infinity between hot and the neutral/ground if the breaker is off.  Mark the wires up there the same way.

Now install a 120V receptacle in the conventional way.

This solution is illegal since you're not allowed to re-mark colored wires as neutral, nor white wires as ground.

Option 4: do something lame with ground - illegal, dangerous and stupid.

I'm not even going to discuss this.


How can I get the 2-part epoxy smell out of concrete?

The easiest and most cost effective way of dealing with it is to paint over it with something like drylok.  You can't really do anything about the smell itself other than removing the epoxy but you can put up a good barrier.


Why won't my Kenmore front load washing machine start?

It's possible the door switch has gone bad. Next possible is a bad panel. My money is on the door switch. Occasionally slamming the door will make it work once or twice. If this works, it's definitely the door switch. There are videos to show how to replace the switch. Be sure to unplug the machine before attempting any repairs !


What can I do with a buried copper gas line?

In our neighborhood of 1970 built tract houses some homeowners added copper lines to a grill in back and a gas light front. The copper lines are invariably  connected to a saddle valve on the black iron gas service line above ground just before it enters the structure. (Fortunately no previous owner of our house added this.)

Some years back I helped a neighbor whose grill was non functional, dilapidated and whose gas light rusted out at the bottom and fell over. I made sure the saddle valve was off at the supply and I removed both the grill and the gas light. I cut off the copper lines below ground and flattened the copper tubing for 6" or so to seal it, then buried it. So there is 100 ft or more of abandoned copper tubing in the ground still connected to the gas service line.


Multiconductor UF can go wherever NM goes...

While single-conductor UF is a thing for certain applications, the UF one sees in residential work is almost universally the multiconductor version, and that is permitted to be used anywhere NM can be used by NEC 340.10 point 4:

  (4) Installed as nonmetallic-sheathed cable. Where so installed, the installation and conductor requirements shall
  comply with Parts II and III of Article 334 and shall be of
  the multiconductor type.

However, UF isn't available in all the configurations NM is

According to Encore Wire's specsheet for NM-B, they make NM in /2 in 14 through 6AWG, /3 in 14 through 2AWG, /4 in 14 through 10AWG, and /2/2 in 14 and 12AWG.  If you look at their specsheet for UF though, there is no such thing as /3 UF fatter than 6AWG (you're expected to use a different direct bury cable type, such as URD or MHF, for applications upwards of 50A), nor are there any /2/2 or /4 configurations available (you're expected to use conduit if you need more than 3 wires + ground).


Is it possible to anchor a cabinet to a wall without damaging it?

This is a tall unit and if it were fully loaded, it could really hurt someone (especially a child) should it fall.  Products like the 3M command strips are designed for hooks where the force on them is acting downwards.  Your cabinet on the other hand, should it tip, would be pulling away from the wall and I really don't think those strips would hold.  If it were my house and my kids, I would not trust them and would opt for a bracket.

As for glueing it, in all liklihood, it would just pull the paper layer of your drywall off with it. Even if it held, it would likely damage your walls more than a couple of holes for a bracket when it comes time to remove it.

For a solution to this, what I often see come with tall bookcases is a short strap (webbbing) with a screw and washer on both sides.  One side screws into the back of the bookcase, and the other should be screwed into a drywall anchor - ideally a toggle bolt since they don't easily pull out.  The washer is important to prevent the screw from pulling through the webbing.  This particular one below uses velcro, but I'd personally screw it into the back of the bookcase.

(source: themanlyhousekeeper.com)

Alternatively a L bracket will work, but they tend to look ugly and depending how much clearance you have, can be really tight to install and/or remove.


From your description, I would say they are Coaxial cable for cable or satellite tv. Some installers will put them next to an electrical outlet from the outside of the home because you will generally need to power a set-top box. If you look inside the house next to an electrical outlet, where this black wire seems to go into the house from outside, and have this or something similar:

then it is coaxial cable. Sometimes you will find just a short wire hanging out of the wall here. It is all up to the installer.


After binding the three live (brown) wires together, remaining ceiling lights won't turn off

One of the brown wires will bring power to this point, another will go to the switch, and the final brown wire continues on to the next light.  The markered blue wire brings power back from the switch, when the switch is in the ON position.
You need to connect the brown that has constant power, to the brown that goes to the switch. Next connect the markered blue to the light, and to the brown wire that leads to the other lights on the circuit.
The green/yellow, and blue wires in your image are connected properly.
As you currently have it wired, you have the wire that feeds the other lights connected to constant power. So they will always be on.
Locating the hot
WARNING:
This procedure should only be carried out by persons with the proper tools and knowledge. And should be carried out with extreme caution.

Turn off the power to the circuit at the breaker/fuse box.
Disconnect all brown wires, and position them so that they are not, and will not come into contact with any other wire or metal object.
Turn the power back on at the breaker.
Using a multi-/voltage meter, touch one probe to the "neutral" wire block (where the blue neutral wires are connected).
Touch the other probe to each brown wire in turn.
If you get a voltage reading, mark that wire in some way.
Turn the power back off at the breaker/fuse box.

You should have gotten a voltage reading on only one of the brown wires.
WARNING:
If you got a voltage reading on more than one wire, STOP, do not follow the rest of these instructions. contact a local Electrician.
Now that you know which wire is the power wire, it's time to locate the switch wire.
Locating the switch wire

Find the blue wire that is marked as a switched hot wire.
Follow the wire back to where it exits the cable sheath.
Mark the brown wire that comes from the same cable sheath.

The brown wire that is part of the same cable as the marked wire is the switch wire.
Making the connections

Connect the brown hot wire to the brown switch wire.
Connect the blue markered wire to the remaining brown wire, and to the light.


Is armoured/metallic BX cable required for exposed wire in basement ceiling?

They have more flexibility in how the AC is installed than if they'd used NM.
For example, in most areas, the NM-B cable you have stapled to the bottom of your joists is not allowed; it should be running through the joists like the other one.  I wouldn't suggest changing it; it just doesn't meet today's standard.
But if that NM-B on the bottom of the joists were AC, it would pass an inspection.
The HVAC contractor would probably rather carry one box of AC than several different materials to minimize material costs but taking up more room in their van, or causing more trips to the supply house and running up miles & hours.