Are there any cordless power tool systems that offer a corded option?

Believe it or not, they do make such things.  For example the Greenlee AC Adaptor for 18V Cordless Tools.

I have not heard of a "system" like that though.  I suspect that's related to the fact that I've never met a pro who used or even wanted one.  When battery-powered tools finally became usable, we all pledged our firstborns to whatever god made that possible and we never looked back.

Cameras, laptops, etc. can all stay in one spot for extended periods as they do their job.  Power tools (at least the kind that come in cordless varieties) are in constant motion.  Dealing with cords and sockets is a major time, safety, and infrastructure disadvantage.

If your tool stays in one spot enough to where you ponder an AC backup, you're often better off just buying an AC-powered tool for that job.  It will: be cheaper, have more power, and be more energy efficient than jacking AC to the cordless tool.

But, if you're really jonesing to do the 60 hertz shuffle ;) and you have some electronics skills, you can rig up your own AC system, a little like this guy did -- Except I would use a proper-sized DC supply and wire it to an old battery pack (¡with the battery cells removed!) instead of hard-wiring it to the tool.


Rubberized wood coatings for decks: Can they be pressure-washed to clean them?

Sure but understand two things: this product has had failures, meaning instances where it cracks and peels off. That has more to do with the contractor who put it on than the product, per se. Second, keep the tip head of the pressure washer "back" from the surface and begin in a section you can "test." Use a soap adapter with your pressure washer. The aggressiveness of the pressure washer is the psi but more so the distance to the surface. I have used pressure washing to both clean a deck and to strip off old coating by controlling the head distance to the surface.


Identifying live and neutral wire of an old lamp

Unscrew the bulbs and see which wire is connected to the side-contact that contacts the thread of the bulb using a continuity tester. That one is the wire you want to be the neutral.

That way the live contact is buried deep within the socket and harder to reach by inquisitive fingers.

The dark brown looks to be the ground connection. Check that it has continuity to the metal housing to verify.


A water expansion tank gives water a place to expand in a closed system (frequently found with boilers, or home water supplies with a check valve). Otherwise, heated water cannot expand and instead increases pressure until some component of the system leaks or explodes.
If the tank is on the hot water heating system, then it's there to relieve expansion from the water being heated. I can't tell from the photo if it's on the heating system or on the home water supply.
Leaks tend to travel down with gravity, if you see evidence of a leak above the tank, then it's likely at the top of that evidence, not the bottom. Shutoff the water, find the source of the leak, and replace the problem area. It may be as simple as needing to unscrew a threaded connection, clean the threads and apply pipe dope, then tighten everything back up. But with visible damage, you'll likely need to to replace the problem area with new pipes.


Why are the shingles blowing off my year-old home?

It's good that the roof is not leaking (you didn't mention that) but improper installation will create leaks in the future. So, verifying a few key items and then officially notifying your builder (by certified, return receipt mail) of incorrect installation will protect your rights. I'd check the following:

Number of nails in each shingle: Each roofing manufacturer requires a certain number of nails into each shingle, usually 4 minimum. Depending on your location, it could be 5 or 6, depending if you are located in a "high wind area". (Where I live, 65 mph winds would require 5 nails per shingle.) You'll find this info on each wrapper around each bundle of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can find it on the manufacturer's website. If you don't know the name of the manufacturer, call the builder.
Nail Placement: I see this wrong on a lot of jobs. If nails are placed too high, then the nail will not penetrate the top of the shingle on the layer directly below. Nails should be above the top of the cut out in the 3-tab shingle, but about 1" below the mastic strip. Most roofers want to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for two reasons: a) it misses the shingle directly below, so there are only 4 nails holding the shingle on the roof instead of 8 nails, and b) it creates a little dip in the shingle because it causes the shingle to bend down over the top edge of the lower shingle.
Lack of Hand-Tabbing: Most shingles do NOT require hand tabbing, unless you are in a "high wind area". Hand tabbing is placing a quarter size dab of roofing mastic "by hand" under each shingle. However, most roofing manufacturers require hand tabbing "if the shingles have not self-sealed in a sufficient time." This is a bit arbitrary, but "sufficient time" means "within the guarantee period." (You can get that confirmed by the roofing manufacturer.) So, the way to test this is to go up on the roof and try to lift a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up). I'd try about a third of the shingle tabs. The roofer will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That means they anticipate the sun heating the shingle up until it sticks to the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it may not get warm enough in your area or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip. (See #7, below.)
Too large of exposure: Three tab shingles should have only a 5  5/8" exposure. Most roofers will stretch that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That gives the opportunity for the wind to lift more of the shingle and creates improper nailing, (missing the top of the lower shingle, etc.)
Too short of nails: Nails should completely penetrate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic?
Roof sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I think. Check with manufacturer. Again, this info is on the wrapper.
Nails or staples are not set flush: That is to say the nails are held up slightly (maybe 1/8") which keeps the shingle from self-sealing.

These are the things that lead to blow off, but other typical bad roofing issues are: A) no starter course, B) shingle ends are not staggered, C) blown off shingles not repaired correctly and the holes in the paper underlayment not sealed correctly where nails have withdrawn from blow off.

One thing that seems odd is that various shingles are blowing off. Usually, one shingle blows off and it takes 10-12 more shingles above it in a "V" shape pattern. This indicates to me, that the nails are not in the correct position below the mastic strip, (see item #2, above.)

Also, where I live, by law, roofing has to be guaranteed for 2 years not 1 year. So, your guarantee period may go another year. You can verify that with your state's Construction Contractors Board (CCB). Also, check the roofing manufacturer's wrapper.


Right ok, whilst I'm still not an expert by any means... but... I think that it's fairly easy to diagnose problem.

First I checked out a few youtube videos on the problem, most people suggested the issue was the flush valve/cistern (couple of videos on fixing that here, link 1, link 2.

I actually bought and replaced the flush valve on my toilets except that wasn't the problem.

Part of what really helped me was trying to take my time to realise why it was still running after the flush. I turned my water pressure lower so it would fill up at a slower rate, then I flushed the toilet again and watched each part until I saw what wasn't working as it was meant to.

The first link above helps to describe the process, but in very simplistic terms for people in a similar situation, when you press the switch it presses a release on the valve to eject all the water in the tank, once it reaches it's 'empty' state (which you can change on your valve) the mechanism will close back up and create a container for the water to fill back up again, this is step one in trying to figure out the issue, it's why a lot of the problems are related to the seal on the valve.

That wasn't my issue, then, as the water is filling, the level rises until it reaches the float gauge (where the water is coming out) and the float is then intended to lift the lever on the gauge to close it when it reaches it's fill capacity (again, you can change this)

This was my problem, the float was being lifted, except the valve inside the float gauge was clogged or damaged and wasn't stopping the water entering the tank when it reached it's highest point, and then the water was just flowing through the overflow pipe and down the toilet.

So the simple fix was just to change the float gauge, they're all of about £10 at toolstation, and I fitted it with no problem

Hope this helps someone in the future


Are tankless water heaters worth it in cold climates?

Tankless heaters are rated by the amount they raise the temperature of the water at a specific flow rate (and as the flow goes higher, the amount they raise the temperature is lower), for example:

Rise in Temp:    50°F      75°F     100°F
Flow rate:    3.8 gpm   2.4 gpm   1.9 gpm

Basically, the lower your incoming water temperature, the larger a unit you need to get. Sizing is also dependent on the number and types of simultaneous consumers of hot water (eg, being able to run two showers at once requires a larger size than is needed for just a kitchen sink).

This manufacturer site shows incoming temperatures in North America, and helps provide sizing information based on their models.

Anecdotaly, I know virtually all new construction I've seen around Ontario for the past couple years (including Ottawa, Ontario) uses tankless heaters.

Resource: http://www.tanklesswaterheaterguide.com/


rainwater entering doorway below driveway

I would put the drain as close as is possible to the door jamb. Think about driven rain hitting the door and dripping down it. Where do you want that water to go, into the drain or back under the door?


Before resorting to demo you might hire a plumber to use a drain camera to scope upstream and downstream of the vertical cleanout, it might cost $60 - $100 but would be money well spent if it saves you some jack hammering and digging.

There are some pretty effective and long lasting methods of rehabilitating old sewer pipe by "shooting" a new internal pipe lining, the liners will even bridge cracks and small breaks. It involves high-pressure hydroblasting to clean the I.D., and opening up the line for access, but maybe that could be done from the exposed portion above the floor and 16" deep well. It may be a good alternative to extensive concrete demo and excavation.


How can I replace the bulb in this ceiling fan?

Has anybody seen a ceiling fan like this?

That looks like a Minka-Aire Acero F601-BS/BN 52-inch Brushed Nickel-Steel Indoor Ceiling Fan

  I'd like to either figure out how to change the bulb,

The manual is available from their website. The glass shade twists off.

  or figure out how to just get rid of it entirely

Turn the power off, cover the carpet and break out the Dremel :)


Techniques to wrap the innards of electrical switches and outlets with electrical tape?

There is no need for tape inside a device box except perhaps as a wire colour marker (phase taping, etc).  Outlets, switches, device boxes, cable, clamps, breakers - all of these devices have clear and specific installation methods that ensure they perform to the safety standards against which they are tested.  Hacks like this do not count themselves among those methods.
If you're tempted to put tape in a device box to stop electricity from going somewhere, it's because there is something else in the box that is done wrong, and tape is never the correct solution.

If the side screws are not screwed in, screw them in.  It takes ten seconds and costs nothing.

If the outlet isn't secure, secure it. It takes ten seconds and costs nothing.

If the box or outlet is damaged such that it can't be adequately secured, or is dented, or too narrow such that the side screws risk touching the box or is too small to accommodate the box fill - replace the box.  It takes fifteen minutes and costs two dollars.

If the wires inside are twisted like haywire, tidy them up.  It takes five minutes and costs nothing.

If the box needs an extender, add one. It takes five minutes and costs a few dollars.

If the wires or insulation are damaged they must be replaced.  Tape is not allowed. If I open a box and see a taped device, the very first thing I do is remove the tape and inspect the job hiding underneath because tape inside a device box does tell you one very important thing - that the person who put it there in the first place didn't even trust their own work.  And you shouldn't either.
Tape is a band-aid solution.  For applications where you would use it to repair insulation it is not allowed by code anyway. Neither code nor device manufacturers require or even recommend that you to wrap tape on outlets, switches, wire nuts, or any other part of anything inside a device box other than for identifying wires.
3M Super 33 is probably the best electrical tape you can buy, and it comes with a 5-year shelf life.  If 3M doesn't give it more than 5 years on the shelf, you can be guaranteed that it won't last that long in service.  Tape eventually fails - it is not a long term solution and it is not suitable for permanent installations.


Saggy around sistered floor joist, how to fix?

If the rest of the joists are sagging, the answer is pretty clear. They should be sistered also. Joists sagging badly enough to create a visible depression are in danger of failure (or at least must bounce with comical severity).

Post some photos if you'd like more specific advice.


Will water tank pressure vary by tank platform height?

If tank2 was open to the atmosphere and there was an open line connecting tank1 to tank2, then the contents of tank1 would flow without limit into the tank2 leading to overflow.

If tank2 were sealed off from the atmosphere, then tank2 would be pressurized at the level of tank1.

If tank2 was sealed from the atmosphere, to allow tank2 to fill you would need a valve on top to bleed air until full and then you would close the valve.

EDIT
You could have tank2 open to the atmosphere if you would have a "riser" tube that goes up above the top of tank1. In that case the pressure in tank1 would be the same as tank1.


Should carbon monoxide detectors be installed in rooms containing gas appliances?

No, you don't want to install CO detectors in the kitchen or garage, or too close to any gas-burning appliance.

You want CO detectors if you have gas appliances, but (somewhat ironically) you don't want to place the detectors close to those appliances. This is to reduce the number of false positives you get from the detector.

CO detectors should be placed on each level of the house, in each bedroom or just outside the doors if two or more bedrooms are close to each other.


How do I remove crumbling mortar from fieldstone foundation?

I've no experience of lime mortar, but I would work under the same assumptions as I use for plaster and normal mortar.

That is, when removing the loose material go a little way into the sound areas, but don't be too aggressive.

So in this case I'd start with a steel brush to get the really loose material out and then use a chisel (or an old long screwdriver) to scrape away a little bit further and test out the remaining mortar to see how loose and crumbly it is.

If you find that you are removing a lot of mortar then I'd start to get concerned, but if you only do a small area at a time you shouldn't affect the stability of the wall.

It might be useful to get a couple of people in to give you quotes for the work. They should explain what they would do and give you an indication of just how bad the mortar is. Ask them if there could be structural problems when repointing - it's a perfectly valid question.

Just don't tell them you intend to the work yourself :)


I will all but guaranty you the wires are not aluminum, but tinned copper. Look at the cut ends of the conductors, not the stripped part. Tell us what you find.


Splicing in a LB, is it allowed by the NEC code?

Absolutely not.  No splicing in a conduit body. They are only to help fish wires.

Now -- there is an utterly useless exception.  If the conduit body is stamped with a number of cubic inches, then you can apply the junction box fill rules instead. In any size of conduit that's reasonable for your wires, there aren't nearly enough cubic inches in the conduit bodies!

You are better off just swapping the conduit body for a junction box. Play with several sizes of box to see which one will line up without having to cut conduit. Been there done that.


The "rings" you mention are commonly called "washers".

It's hard to tell from the photo, but I believe the "incomplete ring" you mention is a "split" or "spring" lock washer:

If that's the case, then the are stacked as you have them in your second picture, the flat washer against the bracket, then the lock washer on top of that.

Note that this assumes that you don't have a nut that goes on the screw, if that's the case, then it's possible that the lock washer goes against the nut and the flat washer goes under the bolt head.

Based on the diagram you provided in the edit, it looks like the diagram wants you to put them in this order:

That looks like it's a wooden bedframe, so the flat washer is there to give a bigger surface for the bolt head when it screws down onto the soft wood.


Comfort and mold are two different things.  The comments you received are good advice for comfort, but mold has its own considerations, especially if you live in a hot, humid area where interior mold is a prevalent problem.

55% relative humidity is the maximum to avoid mildew; 50% is usually the recommended level.  Dehumidifiers are inefficient below about 40%, so you'll spend a lot on electricity without pulling much moisture from the air if the humidity is at that level.

Moisture gets absorbed into every porous surface, so if you start with enough moisture to promote mold, you will need to run the dehumidifier for days to dry things out. 40-45% can help initially, but once you get things under control, run it at 50%. It will cycle as needed to keep the humidity below the mildew threshold. Over 60% you'll get new mold blooms.

As others have indicated, where you live can be important to knowing whether you have a bigger problem.  If you live in a place like Florida, interior mold comes with the territory and you just need to deal with it.  Mildew caused by environmental humidity will bloom in a widespread pattern.

If you live in a cooler, drier climate, it would be unusual for interior humidity to get that high on its own, so interior mold could be a sign of a water problem (like a leaky water pipe or rain or ground water getting in somewhere).  If you get mold in that situation, it is likely to be concentrated in the problem location.

There's tons of information and advice online.  Here's a link that covers a lot of information in one place, and it's written for a non-technical audience: https://inspectapedia.com/sickhouse/Humidity_Level_Target.php

BTW, @Fizz makes a good point in a comment.  Drying things out doesn't kill the mold, it just controls it.  After a bloom, there will still be spores everywhere waiting to regrow.  You need to clean and disinfect all surfaces to get rid of it.  Vacuuming with a regular vacuum cleaner will just recycle it back into the air; use a HEPA vacuum cleaner (there are consumer models that aren't outrageously expensive).

If you live in an area where interior mold is endemic, consider getting a HEPA filter to capture the airborne spores, which will reduce what's available to bloom if conditions become favorable.  There are HEPA-grade filters for your HVAC system, or high-end pleated "allergy-rated" filters.


How can I fix a big crack on an old hutch?

It will be difficult to replace the whole side but it doesn't appear to be necessary anyway since the crack seems to be mainly cosmetic.  Since the piece looks like it is painted this is what I would do:

Use a bar clamp across the width of the case to snug up the crack as much as you can.  (If it will close all the way then also put glue in with a small brush.  Unfortunately if there is old glue then the new glue is unlikely to hold well.)  With the clamp holding the piece in place drill countersunk holes and secure it with a couple screws.

You can buy wood plugs or use short lengths cut from a wood dowel to cover the screws.  I would have the plugs on hand so you know what size you need to match when you are pre-drilling for the screws.  Or, you could also just use bondo or other filler to cover the screws instead of the plugs.  As long as the screws are holding the pieces fairly securely you can also fill a small remaining crack with the bondo / filler.  Sand the filler and repaint.


How do I wire a gcfi outlet in this situation?

If you can't use the interesting bundle of wires you found, there might be another approach. Assuming the 12-2 romex came from the disposal switch (probably above the counter) you might bypass the existing switch and make the current wire to the disposal unswitched. Then you can add a switch and receptacle in the cabinet (assuming it can be made easily accessible under the sink) for the disposal and a second one for the dishwasher.

btw - my house was built in 2004 and we had to install a switch for the dishwasher as well to cut power for maintenance. If you dishwasher plugs in a way it can be unplugged for servicing, then you probably don't need a switch. But if it connects directly to the circuit, you may also need a cutoff switch.

Also you would need to confirm the circuit has enough amps to service a disposal, dishwasher, and whatever else may be on it.


On the second level, is the stair closer to the bigger bedroom or the smaller bedroom? How can you tell from the drawing?

As you're going up the stairs, you're facing the 10x12 bedroom. The hatching on the left end of the stairs on the lower-level indicates that it's not really part of that level. It also wouldn't make sense for you to have to go through one bedroom to get to the rest of the upstairs.

  Is the "deck" on the back of the apartment?

Yes. The front is at the other end. See the next item.

  Is the front door between the kitchen and the closet?

Yes. It's shown in the open position in the floorplan. I've circled it here:

  Does "duplex" here mean that it has two levels?

A duplex usually means that there are two separate dwelling units in a building; there's probably another identical or mirror-image apartment on the other side of one of the long walls.


That is a sheet metal screw with a Phillips head.

It is very similar to a flange-head screw and somewhat similar to a pan-head screw.


Drain to a reservior when water height is higher then the drainage

The only feasible way to recycle the drainage water from the tray without an additional pump is to place the tray at a level above the top of the reservior and let the water flow by force of gravity back into the tank.


What types of tile require a wet tile saw?

For cutting porcelain or ceramic tile, standard practice is to use:

A wet saw with a diamond blade
A manual tile cutter (a carbide wheel slides along a rail to score the tile, then you snap on the line.
Tile nippers for complex shapes

You can use a diamond blade with a hacksaw to cut holes, but it won't be very efficient.

If you have mostly straight lines, you can get away with a decent manual cutter and perhaps a pair of nippers. A wet saw makes the job go faster, but is not necessary.


How should the green and bare wires be used when installing a new light fixture?

So you are removing a light and putting an outlet in?

Simply connect the ground to the ground screw on the plug. It is no different than how you connect the black or white wires.

If you are confused because there are two grounding wires but only one screw, then either use a grounding wire nut or twist the grounds together in such a way that you have one sticking out further then the other. Then you just put the tag end on the grounding screw.


Should I add a return air vent in a refinished basement?

Yes , add at least 1 return at or near the floor ( in the wall). All the cold air in the house heads to the basement since cold air is heavier than the warm air. In some installations a central return duct and grill is installed in a central location to reduce cost,( this has become the norm) but is only to save costs. Every room should have supply and return registers. you cannot push supply air into a room with out having a way for the air to get out, ( its like a balloon). If you have a central return grill you normally need to have the bottoms of the doors shaved to allow the extra supply air to flow out. If you do not do this then the room will not receive enough air to cool or heat depending on the time of the year


What you're trying to do isn't going to work

Judging by the extra Romex freshly brought into this box, it looks like you're trying to power an additional lamp or outlet from here, and specifically, from this here switch.

Not gonna happen.  At least not the way you intend.

However, a new thing changes the picture: Smart switches.  There's good chance we can save this.

If you can pull the other switch out, and get us some photos of what's going on in the back of the box, we will be able to advise.

Why you can't just pull wire to any old place

In the future, don't buy anything or pull the wire until you've figured out the circuit :)

Your new branch needs "always-hot" and "neutral" if it's an outlet, or "switched-hot" and "neutral" if it's a lamp or fan.  You can't just assume those are going to exist in any given location.

That switch is a 3-way switch, as HP discusses.  In 3-way circuits, the downside is they almost never have the 2 wires you need in any given switch location.  The upside is, they have extra wires, and with smart switches, we can take advantage of that.


Let's look at the language offered.

Sheer

  This sheer blind allows light to flow into a room while offering privacy, so it's a great option for a window that is overlooked.

Daylight

  This daylight blind offers privacy, while still allowing some light into your room.

Comparing the two, it would seem that Sheer is designed to allow maximum light while concealing detail. I assume that shapes may be visible, as they would be in sheer clothing. Daylight apparently allows less light to pass, but probably conceals shapes for greater privacy.


Join two 2x4" so that screws are not visible?

There are a lot of ways you could go here.

Conceal The Screws

If you just make a simple butt joint like you have in your picture, you can do as @AlaskaMan says in the comments - countersink the screws and put a plug or putty over the screw head.  That will hide the screw;  the plug / putty will be visible but less noticeable than the screw.

Improved Screws

Pocket screws mentioned by @JimStewart in the comments are usually stronger than straight screws.  The pilot holes are drilled at an angle and the screw is countersunk; you cut an oval shaped plug if you want to conceal the screws.  You could insert the screws from the inside of the frame, depending on what you're making here, they may not be visible on that side, even without the plugs.

You could use corner brackets, which are very easy to use, and in some configurations pretty strong.  If you can put them on one side of the assembly that's out of sight, they may not be visible.

Join without Screws

One sure way to make sure you don't see the fasteners is to not use fasteners.  These methods are important enough that there's a name for it - the craft of joinery.  You could write a book about it, in fact many books have been written about it - here's one:

Woodwork Joints: How They Are Set Out, How Made and Where Used. by William Fairham

There are far more joints in that book than I have ever seen in actual use.  One of the simplest is a simple half lap corner joint.  This one just about anyone could make with just a hand saw, and with good glue used correctly, it will be stronger than a screwed joint.

But the half lap as shown will be stronger on a joint where the pieces are flat, you get more glue surface that way.  With the pieces standing, in the configuration in your photo, a slightly more difficult joint would be better, a bridle joint:

A mortise and tenon joint is similar, a little harder to make, but with less visible seam:

There are many other variations and possibilities - box joints, doweling, biscuits, etc. etc. but hopefully this gives you some ideas.


It looks like the mix was a bit dry and a heavy knock down, if there is not enough moisture in the mud or the wall was not prepped well this happens. It is hard to tell is this a patch? If doing an entire area after taping and sanding I usually wipe the wall with a damp towel to remove dust, when I have large jobs done my mud slinger says why wast the time just add water (he is way faster than I am and his work looks good) so I would guess your pre mix is a bit dry you might be able to flake it off with a putty knife but it will need to be removed. Pre mix separates when sitting on the shelf so it needs to be mixed in most cases and for texture I usually add a fair amount of water, for heavy knock down about a cup to a box, for spray knockdown 2 or more cups let it sit then knock down. So to get back on track remove the material that is cracking add some water to your mud and give it another try. Texture is a bit of an art and the amount of water varies with the conditions both humidity and temperature.


Depends on the valve, mostly, barring a very unlikely arrangement of no cold supply (perhaps fed by a tempering valve if nobody's been scalded, but really, no cold supply is unlikely, while a poor user interface on the valve is very likely, at least in USA plumbing)

i.e. one common USA style of shower valve has essentially no "amount" of water control, and starts "cold" where it's near the off position, on up to hot furthest away from the on position. So if you think you are turning it "fully on" you are really just turning it fully hot. So, cold is "just barely turned on" for that style of valve.

But, I have experienced a surprising number of that sort of shower control that appears to be plumbed exactly backwards to the labels, so it starts full hot near the off position, and goes to full cold. I do not trust the labeling on any new one I meet. I'm not really fond of those anyway, but they are common.

There are various other options, depending what you have for a shower control valve.


Use a knife to cut into the plaster at the base of the fixture. Then when you remove the fixture, it will come off at the cut line and not pull any ceiling plaster off with it.


You cannot use a water pump to pump air. A water pump is designed to move fluid with a viscosity and density that is 1000 times greater than air. The water pump needs the lubrication and cooling of the water passing through it to keep it from overheating. Running a water pump dry will ruin it in short order. Also it will not effectively pump air.


Tungsten wattage vs resistive wattage for Smart WiFi outlets?

Tungsten loads have inrush issues resistive loads don't

Tungsten (incandescent/filament) light bulbs have a positive temperature coefficient of resistance.  This means that as the bulb heats up during operation, its resistance increases, and thus the current drawn by the bulb decreases.  This inrush current when turning on a cold bulb can be a significant multiple above and beyond the steady-state load, and thus requires the relay contacts to be derated from their resistive load handling capabilities in order to avoid excessive arc wear/damage to the contacts.

Furthermore, air conditioners are a whole another animal

Your air conditioner is neither a tungsten nor a resistive load, though.  Since it uses an AC electric motor to run the internal compressor, it is a motor load with a very inductive characteristic.  This also means it's quite heavy on the inrush current as well, with a typical AC motor having a locked rotor starting current several times that of its full running current, and thus requires a different rating for the control switch as well.  This rating is usually given in terms of the horsepower of the largest motor that the device can safely control, so it is often called a horsepower rating as a result.

Furthermore, air conditioners have special properties that weigh against controlling them remotely by pulling their plug out.  In particular, this can defeat protection systems in the air conditioner that prevent it from short cycling, and for heat pumps, this can be a more serious issue yet due to loss of power to key accessories, such as crankcase heaters.

As a result, it's generally considered Not A Good Idea to use a switched outlet to control an air conditioner.  You are better off finding a way to hack the controls to do what you want, so that they can handle situations like short-cycling properly; furthermore, since your outlet lacks a horsepower rating, it's not rated to control any sort of motor load to begin with, which makes using it to control this an extra-bad idea.


Issues after capacitor replaced on AC unit

If the lights are dimming several times while the unit is running, the only thing you can check is listen to the outdoor unit to determine if the compressor is unexpectedly starting and stopping when it should be running continuously.  Set the thermostat to a low setting and listen outside to see if you can hear the compressor starting and stopping at about the same interval as you notice the lights dim.

If abnormal starts and stops are occurring, a competent technician is needed to evaluate and repair the problem.  Whether or not the compressor is cycling unexpectedly, installation of an appropriately sized 3 wire hard start kit can sometimes alleviate lights dimming on startup due to the electric service being marginally small for the unit.

You may want to try a better technician than the one who advised an entirely new system and then replaced a leaking capacitor.  Any technician worth his salt would use a capacitance meter and not an amp meter to legitimately investigate this problem.  Also, unless your 6 year old system was installed absolutely horridly, it should not need replacement so soon.


Which pipe do I need to link under sink trap and drain?

If you can’t get the tail out of the basin pop up /drain stopper you may need to replace the entire drain assembly.
Don’t panic only about 12.00$ at the big orange home store “pop up assembly” by easy flow is one inexpensive one that will work.
First remove the drain pop up lever unscrew the plastic and pull the rod out the back. the rod is held in place by a spring clip  now you can slid the rod off the clip
The basin nut at the bottom of the sink now needs to be unscrewed loosened.
Now comes a possible difference depending on type some the nut will come all the way off and the assembly can be pushed up.
The other way (most common) is the top section unscrews and when the flange is loose pull down and remove lift the top piece and stopper out and it is ready to be reassembled.
When you purchase the new piece if it doesn’t have a seal for the top (many come with a neoprene seal) you will need a small tub of plumbers putty.
Roll out a nice fat worm slightly longer than what it takes to wrap around the pipe at the top part (the flair that the stopper sits on) when snugged down plumbers putty squishes out and fills the voids creating a water tight seal of there is not a neoprene seal.
Other than that you can keep the existing piece to push and pull the stopper or remove and install the new one.
The stopper adjustment is the toughest part it may be slightly higher or lower than the original once adjusted I put the slip joint pipe to the P Trap and snug all the nuts. After doing this a few times it can be done in under 15 minutes, but the first time expect 30-45 minutes. A pair of plumbers players with the adjustable jaws that can open to 1-1/2” really makes the job much easier and is the only tool I usually use other than a screw driver to scrape any old plumbers putty away after removing the drain/ pop up assembly.
There may be some instructions make sure to look them over , if you have an over flow drain you will want to line up the holes with the drain.
I probably made it sound hard but really I have to pull mine apart several times a year because it gets plugged with long hair from the wife, daughters and all the granddaughters long hair they are not hard and if you can’t get the tail out or find a new one to screw in you will need to replace it.


Installing and connecting an outside generator power inlet box

I ignored the main power box as a typical portable can only produce a small fraction of the main supply. I put a receptical box inside near where the generator will be outside the house, conduit through the wall and out to the generator. The refrigerator is fortunately near . Then I use temporary extension cords as needed ; a bit of a hassle but but not bad for a couple days a year. I have used it a few times and it was satisfactory ( 2,000 watt portable). I supply a room AC, TV and some lights, phone and PC.


How could i remove this hardly accessible nut?

A crow’s foot wrench is a suitable tool for this or a plumber’s wrench which works left or right.
See basin wrench at Home Depot...


Installing recessed lighting using a switch that used to power on/off a duplex outlet

I would do it a little bit differently.

First I would tie all the ground wires together and push them into the back of the boxes.

On the new Romex cable, wrap both ends of the black wire with red tape to mark them.  Red will be the color-code of "Switched-Hot".

At the lamp, connect the lamp's white to white, the lamp's black or red to the red (switched-hot) wire, and the ground to ground.  Never mix white with ground.

At the switch, connect the "red" wire to one switch terminal, and a black pigtail to the other switch terminal (it may already be that way).

Then I would wire-nut all the black wires (which aren't marked red, obviously) in the switch box together - these are "always-hot". The pigtail to the switch, the supply, and the downline to the old socket.

Then I would wire-nut all the white wires together - these are neutral.  The supply, the wire to the lamp, and the wire to the old socket.

Voilà.  Now, the lamp works, and the old socket now is always-on.


How do I determine/control which heat source is used (heat pump, oil)

A heat pump thermostat prefers to operate the heat pump under "usual" conditions as that is expected to be less expensive.  It will invoke the back up (or "emergency heat") when any of several conditions occur:

The current indoor temperature is more than 4 °F/2 °C cooler than the temperature setpoint.  This is the blockhead approach taken by primitive thermostats and intelligent thermostats when "anticipator mode" is disabled.
The outdoor temperature is cold enough that the heatpump can not operate inexpensively.
The "emergency heat" switch is enabled on the thermostat.

Some (advanced) thermostats might have an adjustable delta temperature value, but it does not look like the TH8320 does.  According to the installer manual (see page 17), there is a deadband adjustment, option 0310.  Besides directly controlling the deadband, it might also be used as the temperature delta or half of it.  Try adjusting the deadband, save it, and then adjust the setpoint temperature above the current reading (which will drift up as your hot hand and body will warm the thermostat) and see if the delta is affected.


Advice on removing brick fireplace and gas fireplace

Typical fireplace construction.

The wood mantel above the masonry is usually added as the last part of the esthetics of the fireplace. Wood cannot be used as a structural element in a fireplace. This could possibly be removed with reckless abandon.

The area of the firebox, not the brick beyond the face of the wall where your insert is, usually that's where the structure is, both above and below. Don't mess with it unless you really know what you are into.

The red brick that is in front of it all TYPICALLY is just a veneer. It is USUALLY never built with the fireplace, always after, it is only for looks. It just as well be tile, natural stone or hardened mud pies.

As you expect to do, after you pop the wood off, no need to support it temporarily, then start to remove the brick with chisel and hammer, protect the floor if you are going to repair it, no need to repair more than you have to.

The biggest problem you should have is the hearth. It will be no more difficult to remove the brick than the rest of it, but the slab that supports may be in the way still. Then again maybe not, since you have a tile floor and it all looks like it is laid starting at the same level. You will need to figure out what to do the bare spot where the tile is cut around the hearth that is no longer there.

Do get a pro to remove the gas line before you take anything apart..


What size is the red pipe?  The trick here is the weir.  If your sink p trap arm can be on the same horizontal plane as the red pipe then you can wet vent otherwise where the trap arm hooks into a vertical it needs a connection to the vent above that can not have a horizontal run until it rises above the flood plane of the sink.

Probably the toilet is fine.  The sink you'd need a vertical pipe running up and hooking into a non horizontal run of the main stack or an aav (if allowed in your area) or an independent vent.

Hope that makes sense without a diagram.


How can I attach Velcro to a fly screen?

What about velcroing through the screen, then sticking another piece on the back, basically making a velcro frame around the screen? This is hard to explain, here's a diagram:

AAAAAAAAAA
LLLLLLLLLL
SSSSSSSSSS
HHHHHHHHHH
AAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAA
LLLLLLLLLL

HHHHHHHHHH
AAAAAAAAAA
FFFFFFFFFF

The first 2 rows (AL) are one piece of velcro, loop side, with the adhesive away from the screen (leave the backing on this adhesive).

Next row is the screen (S)

Next 2 rows (HA) are another piece of velcro, hook side, again with adhesive away from the screen (backing removed from this piece).

Next 2 rows (AL) are another piece, loop side, adhesive against the previous piece so they stick back-to-back

Everything above here is on the screen (removable). Everything below is fixed to the wall.

The next 2 rows (HA) are the velcro stuck to the frame, and finally the F is the frame.


galvanized or stainless turnbuckles for exterior wire rope fence?

The age-old question of whether or not to use alloy materials is subjective.

cost vs. longevity
consequence/cost of failure

Rest assured that the galvanized components will fail. You will then be unable to adjust the tension of the cables. If the consequences of the failure outweigh the initial investment for alloy materials, you should buy stainless (this includes the cable itself as well).

For decades and decades the oil industry resisted the use of alloys in piping and vessel construction due to cost; it was just easier and cheaper to replace carbon steel components at their earlier end-of-life. Now, the safety and environmental costs of failure are beginning to outweigh the cost of investment for alloy materials, hence they are now "alloying up".


Laminate flooring finishing around door jam

Do you still have any pieces of laminate and willing to some more work? You are supposed to undercut the door jamb with saw and slide the laminate under the jamb for a clean look


Can I replace a drop-in sink with a counter-top mounted sink?

Al long as it covers the old cutout and the original top is strong enough to carry the weight, there will be no problem. Vessel sinks are usually held in place by the drain to a degree and sealed at the base with a good grade of caulk. Yours is heavy enough, if it is the same bulk as the one pictured, its weight alone will keep it in place, but please seal it down with a good water based, mildew proof caulk.


alternative insuluation for stainless steel dishwasher?

This type of "blanket" is commonly used for sound insulation in dishwashers.  It could work for you if the tolerances allow it.  The insulation is there solely to insulate for temperature and sound.


Can a single 8" flex duct be split into a 5" flex and 7" flex?

The volume of a round duct can be generally estimated using its cross section. Pi * r^2
For an 8" it's 16Pi
7" is 12.25Pi
5" is 6.25 Pi.
18.5 > 16, so this is an oversized split.
However, using a 6" instead of a 7 gives you 9Pi.
9+6.25=15.25
So splitting an 8 into a 5+6 is a bit smaller, a 5+7 a bit bigger.
Given the choice I'd go 5+7 but if the rooms require 5+7 then it will be insufficient.
A 10" would be 25Pi, and that will happy split into 7+7 or 8+6.


Why is my water heater still running if I cut the main line due to water problem located in my house

Assuming it's a tank-style heater: The tank leaks heat, and eventually gets cool enough that the thermostat switches the heat on. If you don't want that happening you'll need to explicitly turn off the heater.


PIR/PUR laminated panels...sources? Similar products? (Interior insulated panels)

These type of insulated panels are popular in timber frame and log style houses.  There are several American sources and brands available.  A good example of these panels is from a company in Texas, check out this site:  http://www.arcat.com/arcatcos/cos33/arc33294.html  Good luck.


What is the weight limit on pergo flooring?

It can basically take any amount of weight.  Well I am sure there might be a theoretical limit but nothing you are going to possibly have will effect it.  The key is to allow for some minor expansion gaps on your out walls and to never nail/screw/whatever anything into the flooring.

You have to make sure that no cabinets, shelves, or anything else that is anchored to the floor.  Other than that you are good to go in a mobile home.  The only issues I have seen with Pergo is when people screw down an island on top of it or very large rooms - 20 feet plus squared.


NEMA 14-20 are intended for two phase power.  Of the four conductors, two are energized, one is neutral, and one is ground.

  (NEMA 14-20 diagram)

A NEMA L15 is specifically intended for 3 phase power including a ground (but no neutral).  The number after the hyphen is the current rating.  That is, NEMA L15-60 is for 60 ampere conductors.

  (NEMA L15-20 diagram)

As you can see, they look vitually identical.  See the full chart here.

I can see why one would make the substitution.  The NEMA 14 is like a $25 connector.  The L15-20 is closer to $60, each side.  They both accommodate four wires.  I am sure it would not pass muster to substitute one for the other, but in a private, non-commercial, non-permanent installation where there is no possibility of intermixing the connectors with other devices and outlets, it might be okay safety-wise with durable signage present.


How long should I recharge my drill's batteries?

I have found the original instructions on this page.

  After approx. 3 hours of charging, the battery will be sufficiently
  charged for use in regular applications. After approx. 8-10 hours of
  charging, the battery will be fully charged.

After a few lines, it says:

  After normal use, a charging time of 3 hours will provide sufficient
  power for most applications. However, further charging for up to 6 hours
  could significantly increase the use time, depending on the
  battery and charging conditions.


How do I paint old brass fireplace doors?

Yes you can paint them. You will need to use a heat resistant paint. Your options for paint will be limited at the Big Box Stores. I would look at either automotive engine paint at the local autoparts store or paint specifically for stoves from a wood/pellet stove dealer. My guess is that color choice will be limited. The glass need not be removed. You can mask it off with tape and remove the tape later. The results may be better if you remove the tape prior to the paint curing as the edges will be less likely to chip. You will get a better finish with the glass out but it may be difficult to remove. Some models hold the glass in with trim pieces held with screws. Other models crimp a metal lip to retain the glass. Recrimping the lip tight enough to get a good seal might be difficult to do at home.


Combination AFCI/GFCI breaker with GFCI receptacle

There is no advantage and it adds an annoyance factor. Both breaker and GFCI outlet will both trip on ground fault. But the user has to remember the breaker must be reset first.


Who is responsible to relocate cable TV line?

Like Chris says, you'll likely have to pay for this. If the line had become damaged through no fault of your own, they would pay to run a new line, and at that point you might get them to run it a different way.

That said, cable lines tend to be buried fairly shallow. You can dig it up yourself and rebury it a short distance away. Just be careful when digging it up since they are also easy to damage and they'd likely charge you for the repair. And when you rebury the line, try to get it deep enough so it can't be hit with an aerator or other routine yard maintenance.


Note: I am not an engineer, and I haven't done any kind of load calculations on the recommendations below.  I did some somewhat related research on how to hang a 100LB heavy bag (punching bag) from a wall (just one wall).  Initially I was thinking about using pipe and a pipe floor flange, but I decided that a pipe attached to a wall was not going to be sufficient to deal with the forces exerted by a 100LB bag swinging. Most heavy bag hangers (aka wall mounts) use tube steel construction, with the tube fastened to the wall at multiple points, which is a lot stronger.

This question is a little different because you'll be able to support both ends of the pipe, so the pipe should be able to support more weight.

I think it would be helpful to break this down into parts:

A. Hardware/Mount to attach the pipe to

B. Fasteners for attaching the mount to the wall

A. Hardware / Mount

i) You could use different pipe fittings (like a 'pipe floor flange', google that to see what it looks like if you are not familiar) and threaded pipe to build a good, strong setup.

The problem with the flange is that the holes that they provide for fasteners/screws are pretty small.  More on this in part B because this is about fasteners

ii) You could just get a thick block of wood (e.g. 4x material, so 3.5" thick ), and drill 1.75" holes into it to accommodate the pipe, and then attach the block of wood to the wall with fasteners of some kind (see part B).  If you wanted to be able to remove the bar from the block, make one hole deeper than the other

iii) You could get 2x wood material, and create a channel for the pipe.  Imagine something in the shape of a U, so you would put the bar/pipe in from the top.  It wouldn't be secured but if you wanted it to be you could probably figure an easy way to secure the top of the U (e.g. a sliding block).  Similar to the above, you would make sure that the wood material is large enough that it gives you space to drill fasteners through it into the concrete/brick wall

B. Fasteners

For attaching things to concrete/brick, you can use things like:

i) Anchors
ii) Tapcon screws
iii) Threaded rods, bolts/nuts, epoxy, like the Simpson Adhesive Anchoring System:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/anchorsystems/adhesives/adhesive_anchoring_install.html

So I think the best thing to do is figure out:
a) how big a pipe you will use, making sure that they have a pipe floor flange in that size
b) how big the fasteners are that will fit in the pipe flange, and if you think they'll be strong enough
c) if you don't want to attach the flange directly to the concrete/brick wall, you could go with the wood mounting options, which would give you a lot more area to install whatever fastener you want

long answer, but hope it helps


Replacing Dimmable Halogen Spot light with LED dimmable or non Dimmable LED spotlights

I've replaced low voltage halogens with LED equivalent and had no issues with dimming.  But, this is not always the case.  I've had to take back a whole case because they had interference with radio signals.

Call the manufacturer and ask them.  That's what we all do when we don't know.


What's best to stick granite backsplash to granite countertop?

Clear, slow (ie, not 5 minute set time) epoxy is what I'd use. Apply masking tape on the countertop exactly at the seam line. Same for the backsplash. Glue and set the backsplash (clamp gently in place), and wipe the joint clean of the excess. (Disposable gloves will be your friend, here, as epoxy is hard to clean.) Pull the tape and wipe the joint one more time. Have whatever recommended solvent on hand for cleanup in case you get any epoxy where it shouldn't be.

My gut feeling is that this sort of setup is usually used against a wall, so they aren't expecting the backsplash to take a lot of abuse. Since you aren't against a wall, be careful in the future.

I don't think there's a need to rough up the mating surfaces, but it can't hurt.

And since you have a perfectly waterproof joint, I wouldn't bother with caulk.


Dealing with inaccessible carcass under pier and beam house

Quicklime is traditional, though a bit hazardous to handle. Time also does it. A hose end-sprayer with bleach or lysol (don't mix the two, pick one) might help at a lower hazard level and provide a way to apply the stuff where you cannot easily reach. The dead thing might also be in the walls rather than under the house.


Dry Rot (?) in Exterior Trim, patch or replace?

Don’t fiddle with epoxy. You’ll want to remove those boards and see what’s happening on the other side. You’ll want to replace the boards. As mentioned in the comments - you’ll need to assess why the wood rotted. First place to look is the flashing/trim right above the rotten boards - is water getting behind it and the rotten boards? Around it? Next time it rains go have a look at the situation - is water dripping off the edge of the flashing/trim to the ground, or is it working around the flashing/trim and running down the face of the rotten boards? Water is somehow collecting somewhere it’s not supposed to be.


Can I electrically isolate appliances by putting them on separate legs of a split phase supply?

If the outlets are on completely separate wire runs from the breaker panel OR sharing a neutral but on opposite legs (sharing on the same leg is illegal), then the wire resistance from the panel to the outlets will be isolated between them and the voltage drop will be minimized. (The current draw is low enough that there should be no noticeable drop at the panel).

So yes, even if they were on the same breaker, let alone phase, as long as the wire runs are separate, the server should not see a drop from the laser printer. Also good if a neutral is legally shared.

(The reason that the shared neutral is OK is that each circuit's return current will be 180 degrees out of phase. Therefore, the worst case current through the neutral will be one circuit's. In fact, when the laser turns on, the voltage may even rise slightly to the server as some of the server return current will actually flow through the laser, bypassing the neutral.)


Can I use an "impact driver for concrete" to drill or drive screws in wood?

I have seen people use the impact drill for screws, they tend to deform the screw heads so that you cannot remove the screws later. For drywall that's irrelevant, for assembling something with wood, it might be. But...
Drywall screws are not a good choice for wood anyway, the shafts are thinner and weaker, because for drywall, you don't need the screws to be any stronger than the paper on the drywall. It's a LOT easier to twist the heads off of drywall screws when installing them and for them to break off afterward.


Wow, that is a pretty old house....Really, mine was built in 1975, so it must be ancient! But your faucet should be pretty standard, however, the valves could be any of a few standard sizes. You would need to make sure you get the proper hoses to attach the faucet to the water valve.


Can my generator power my deep well water pump?

I had the very same question when I sized my generator to run my well-pump during power outages.  I purchased a clamp meter for under $100 and tested the pump on household current.  I simply attached the meter to the hot line and then turned on the pump.  My pump is 220 volt with two hot wires so I had to multiply the results by 2.  Unfortunately, I have moved-on from that home and don't remember how much power mine needed, but it was well under the 5500 watt stated capacity of my genset.

Also, it is important to note the starting current or use the "hold" feature on the clamp meter so you know the starting requirements and the running requirements.


How to unfix a pvc tube glued to another pvc tube?

The glue normally used is a pvc cement and « welds » the joint together.
I would cut that tee out and fit a new one with extensions to meet up with the existing pipes using couplers.
When you get the old part out, try separating a joint - they tend to « tear » the surface.


I think that your coils are frozen.
Ironically, I had the same issue with my HVAC system last week, although I am a few hundred miles south of you. Had an A/C man come out and he taught me about how units freeze up. Here are some things to check:

1) Are your air filters clean? Dirty air filters can suffocate the system and reduce the amount of efficiency. They could also cause the unit to freeze up (Which I will get to in a moment). If your system has been run without filters or with dirty filters for an extended period, the coils could also be very dirty and you will need a professional to clean them.

2) Is your thermostat set to a reasonable cool temperature? Do you have it on AUTO or ON? Sometimes leaving it set to "ON" 24/7 can be detrimental to your systems health.

3) Would you say that your vents feel under-powered? If so, this may be another sign of the coils freezing.

4) Is your A/C Drain line free? The drain line is a small 3/4" PVC pipe that comes out of your unit and drains outside. If it gets clogged, then the natural condensation that your A/C unit generates can't be drained, and could cause the system to operate incorrectly. You can try vacuuming it with a wet/dry vac. It will let out somewhere outside your home, which is where you want to connect the vacuum. Don't use a regular household vacuum!
On my unit (See picture below) there is a T joint and a cleanout, so I didn't have to cut my line. I was able to pour water through it with a funnel to verify that it was not clogged.

Touch the insulated refrigerant line. You should see it uncovered right next to the indoor unit). It should be very cool to the touch. If it is only slightly cool after several minutes of running the outdoor unit, then you are probably low on refrigerant.
Is the air sufficiently cooled? Get a thermometer and measure the temperature of the air as close to the unit as you can. In my case there is an intake a few feet from it, so I measured the temp in the duct. Then, measure the temperature in a outgoing vent. The difference should be about 20 degrees (F). If it's less (it was about 11 for me), then you may not have enough refrigerant in your lines.

So here is something to try:
Turn OFF your A/C, and run the fan only. So turn your thermostat to OFF and the fan to ON (not auto). This will help defrost the coils. After about 4 hours, cut on the air again. Does the air feel significantly cooler and at a better air flow rate? This may indicate that the coils did in fact freeze.

When your coils freeze, it reduces airflow. The outside unit keeps pumping cold refrigerant through the system, thus making the problem worse. Sometimes the ice will make the air feel very humid, but because only a small amount of air can go through, the house will not cool.

It's okay if your coils freeze up once in a blue moon, (once or twice a year). But, if you are having to defrost every day like I was, then you need to call a repairman. You likely have a refrigerant leak. This is nothing to panic over - it's not like Carbon Monoxide or anything, but, it means that your system is burning electricity like no tomorrow ($$$) and you are still cooking in your own castle.

The repairman will assess if you have a leak and what your pressure is and should be at. He will refill your lines (and replace them if he needs to). While the bill will be high, I ended up saving $200 a month on my power bill after he came out (House went from 4000kwh to 1200kwh).

Note: Don't try to recharge the A/C refrigerant with an OTC kit, there are multiple kinds of refrigerant, and you should never mix them. A professional can properly assess what kind of refrigerant you need, if there is a leak, and what your options are to fix it.

Good Luck!


How to plasterboard half hollow wall with gas pipe running up it

I must be missing something but why didn't the plasterers extend that wall 3 or 4 inches and then add the battens running horizontally across the wall? Then the valve would be recessed and you could build a small framed access panel.


My home air conditioner that's inside the house, seems to be sputtering when coming on. What could this be?

If it sounds like liquid than I'd guess that the pump that circulates the coolant isn't being submerged properly when in its sleep state, and only once it gets a good vacuum and liquid pouring into its reservoir does it quiet down. I'd have someone check the fluid levels as you may need more of whatever coolant (Freon?) it uses.


Will an inline tankless heater help my 50 gallon water heater fill my 70 gallon tub?

I believe you are over estimating how much hot water is needed to fill the tub. It will be filled below the overflow drain that should be built into the tub. You can reduce the total by the size of the person getting into the tub. And most importantly you can reduce the amount of hot water by any cold water you include to regulate the temperature, perhaps you are only using 2/3 hot water to 1/3 cold water.

The important question you'll want to determine is how quickly the water heater can regenerate a full 50 gallons of hot water because you may want to heat the bath back up after a while, or use hot water for some other purpose after taking a bath. If you find yourself near the threshold of available hot water, you may find it easier and cheaper to increase the temperature of the hot water in the existing tank, rather than adding a tankless water heater.


How can I replace this corroded metal P-Trap with a new PVC trap?

If you notice at the top, there is a handy dandy nut (if you will) that you can unscrew. Take that off, and you're half way to removing it.

After that, you can unscrew the bottom of the p trap from the rest of the pipe.

Next you will need a PVC P trap kit. Make sure you bring your old pipe to the hardware store and check that you get the correct size (Most kitchen sinks are 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 in.)

Figure out the correct orientation of your p trap. The long pipe included should fit inside of the existing metal pipe nicely. If not, shorten it a little bit with a hack saw. Careful though, the pvc is fragile and easy to crack!

You should be able to save the original section of pipe you unscrewed first if you disconnect it from the sink. (See red arrow) The PVC part of the p trap should screw nicely into the green arrow part of the pipe. You may need to use the original nut, but if that doesn't fit, use the pvc one included in the kit. Make sure it's tight!

Have fun!


What is the advantage of PEX pinch clamp vs. crimp rings?

The benefits of the clamps are exactly as you say - the biggest one being that they're sometimes the only option in a cramped area. They used to be over 5x the price of the rings, which adds up very quickly -- but I see now they are only slightly more expensive.
I don't think they're any less reliable than regular pex crimps, I know of some (at my cottage) that have been fine for 5+ 10+15+ years now.


Wiring of jacuzzi bath tub (replacing normal tub)

You can't put a GFCI receptacle inside the "trap access opening" because it has to be accessible so you can reset it.  But that's alright; GFCIs can sit anywhere and protect a load "down the line" from it.

A good reason to do that is if the GFCI is too close, its protection is not total.  If the GFCI's Line terminals get wet, that can still carry an electric shock to you even if the GFCI trips.You're actually better off installing a GFCI far away from the thing you're protecting.

One possible place is right in the service panel using a GFCI breaker.  If it's a dedicated circuit that goes only to the hot tub, that makes a lot of sense.

12/2 cable is fine for the 20A motor circuit.   You didn't say what current the heater is; if it's 20A then #12 is fine.  If it's 30A you need #10.

If the heater is 120V-only or 240V-only, then /2 cable will suffice.  If it is 240/120 with neutral (which would surprise me), you need /3.   You also need a GFCI on the heater. If it's a 240V heater, that is only possible as a GFCI breaker.

You definitely want the GFCI protection before the timer.  First to protect you while you're operating it, and second because cutting power to a GFCI is bad for the GFCI and will cause nuisance trips.

The installation instructions for the jacuzzi will tell you officially what cable and breaker sizes to use.  Those instructions are approved by Underwriter's Labratories as part of its UL Listing.  You must follow them because the validity of the UL listing depends on following the instructions.  (Code, NEC 110.3B).


How would you build a well cover for a dug well?

First and foremost, "sturdy" matters more than "light" - in fact, a "standard design goal" for a standard well cover is that you should need at least two people to remove it - helps prevent Timmy from popping it off so Lassie can go get someone to rescue the idiot boy again when he falls in the well, again. That poor dog...
Likewise, if a fat person or whatever your largest local wildlife is (so if your bears are Grizzlies rather than Black Bears you need to plan for more weight) decides to climb up on the cover for a look around, it needs not to collapse and dump them in the well. Nothing like rotting meat to spoil your water supply.
So, if going for a "flat" roof (please actually give it at least 1/4" per foot slope) you want something like a small deck. It's only 4 foot span (or perhaps 2 foot 8 inches if 4 feet is the outside dimension and it's 8" block) and "it's not a deck, so it doesn't have to meet actual deck codes" but it does have to hold up a person, bear, whatever. So you can use 2x4 framing, or perhaps skip framing if it's only a 32" square hole, but at least choose thick enough exterior or marine-grade plywood to unquestionably support your largest load with some safety factor.
An alternative is to use a "non-flat roof" as they are easier to waterproof effectively, and may be less attractive as a climbing surface. If 4 feet is the outside dimension, a "5/12 pitch roof" only needs to be raised 10 inches in the middle (2 feet of run each way), and will shed water far more effectively than a flat roof.
You can also go all the way to a "well house" built on top using the well as a foundation, but I suspect that's not a direction you are interested in.
Any well cover, particularly if it's "tight" (as it should be to keep critters out) is normally vented (with screened vents to keep critters out) so that air can get in as you pump water out.


Smart switch; change one cable

The cable from the existing lamp to the nearer switch (upstairs?)... you need to change that to a /3 cable (red white black).

You can extend the cable to your new lamp from any switch box.  When you do, use colored tape to re-tag the black wire as a red wire.

Now we're going to fit smart switches that allow wireless connection of remotes.  These smart switches cannot require a wire for comms between them, as we lack any spare wires.

Now we're going to change the color codes.  As it happens, the existing color codes will suffice in all locations:

black = always-hot
white = neutral
red = switched-hot

Your master smartswitch attaches to black, white and red.

Your remote smartswitch attaches to black and white only.

Your original lamp connects to red and white.

Your new lamp attaches to red and white in the box nearest it.


Why does the breaker trip occasionally after I installed a new light fixture?

I'm going to take a wild guess that the previous home owner put the blanks up because they had the same problem and didn't want to fix it. You likely have a short circuit and need to track down where the short is occurring. I'd remove the bulb from the fixture, unhook each of the wires that you connected before, and use a multimeter to test for "continuity" between the wires on each run (e.g. hot to neutral, hot to ground, neutral to ground for the line to the switch, for the light fixture without a bulb, and anywhere else that was previously disconnected). If you don't have continuity with a simple low voltage tester, then the problem could be arcing that only occurs when 120V is applied. Either way, get this fixed before turning the breaker back on with this fixture wired.


There are really only two likely possibilities here:

Broken GFCI

Repeated trips, dirt, water damage, insects, loose connections leading to arcing - there are a ton of reasons why a complex electronic device like a GFCI can fail. They are designed to fail safe when possible - i.e., off rather than on. If the GFCI has truly failed, the only fix is to replace it.
If you have to replace it, you may want to consider an inside location so that the outside receptacle is a simple receptacle and therefore less likely to fail due to weather and other "outside" problems. One possibility is to replace the switch with a GFCI switch like this one:

and then you can use a simple weather-resistant receptacle outside. Whatever you do, make sure you have a good in-use cover over the receptacle.

Water

It is quite possible that water got into the GFCI/receptacle in a way that it causes a ground-fault (which is why the GFCI won't reset) and doesn't quickly dry out. If that's the case, you can either remove it to dry it out or just wait a day or two. If after it dries out, everything works properly (TEST/RESET work and power only when the GFCI is not tested or tripped) then you are fine. In other words, the GFCI may simply be doing exactly what it is supposed to be doing.


Water under the vapour barrier in the attic

Just the fact that you mention a vapor barrier in your attic is the problem. Attics should never have vapor barriers.

Only walls. Next time your at your local home improvement store look at the insulation. You'll see insulation for attics is unfaced and wall insulation has a kraft face, though you can install an unfaced wall insulation if planning on adding a vapor barrier.

Homes will always have moisture and it's through the attic that that moisture needs to escape. That is why your finding the moisture UNDER the barrier.


Should building a new house include considerations about radon?

You should consider, but not invest now. Wait and test, before treating. Small design changes now, can make implementing a fix later, easier.

Radon is everywhere, to some level. If you have higher levels of radon, then you need to be concerned with the rate that fresh air is exchanged in your home. Houses are much tighter today, so be more aware with a new house.

Many factors affect where radon collects. Do you heat with wood? That moves air around your woods stove. Do you have leaky windows? That exchanges small amounts of air all over the house.

To get a general sense, ask a few neighbors if they have tested for radon. On the other hand, I have rock under my house, while my neighbor has sand, so things can vary quickly. You could call a few local excavators, or well drillers, as they are likely to have a guess. Fill (the dirt and stone under your lawn) gets moved around so much, that you can't rely on historical or nearby testing.

Your local building inspector is probably going to be your best resource. And since you're going to be seeing that person alot anyway, you might as well make contact.

Let's say you have a concrete slab, with stone under it. Whether or not this is a basement doesn't matter. Your builder will put a layer of plastic under that, to keep out the "rising damp", and it may help limit radon. It would be a simple thing to ask for 8 feet or so, of perforated pipe, capped, to be placed under the slab. In the middle, have a 90 with a pipe come up through the concrete into your house. Cap it for now. $20. When you test later, it may be enough to stick a bath fan on it, and pipe the air outside. Cold ground air is simply piped outside, and radon may not collect.

If you are putting in ducts for heating/cooling, ask about how an HRV could be attached. I think this is the ventilation you were thinking of (heat recovery ventilator). The HRV is about $1k, and could be bought later. The ductwork is hard to do later.

In addition to air quality, you may also want to check on radon levels in your water, if you have a well.

Cost reduction is good. Basements are often incorrectly drained, so can be damp and harbor mold. On the other hand, if you put in good drainage, basements are cheap square footage. You might consider reducing closets and rooms and keeping the basement.


How to get rid of water stain on concrete?

I had a similar problem recently and I successfully used a solution of muriatic acid. I wouldn't use full strength because of its potency. You can purchase a mild muriatic solution in most hardware stores.
Make sure you wear protective gloves and eyewear. Pour it on according to directions, lightly scrub the area with a brush being careful not to splatter the solution. After the time indicated on the bottle rinse the area thoroughly.


Why won't my new refrigerator water line valve turn?

That "plumber" did you no service by leaving you with old fully rotating valves that are likely to break if you force them open! They break easily without force! He's just waiting for you to break it, flood the place and call him back. I'd call him back and first ask him why he didn't install "quarter turn" valves. Get him to install quarter turn valves which are much easier to turn on and off and don't break as easily as the older, fully rotating handle kind that you have now. Was there no access to the water main to turn off the water and so he couldn't/wouldn't do this?


The air in a properly sized heating supply system should only reach somewhere between 100 and 150 deg if all is well.  That temp is too low to catch anything on fire.  Not only that, most flex ducting comes with insulation already integrated in it.


How do I mitigate large outgoing inductive spikes from home appliance?

You can try a large capacitor at the proper rated voltage, at least 250 if your device operates at 120 volts. Connect it across the line ahead of the device.

The other option is an isolation transformer between the device and the main line which can help absorb spikes.

Good luck!


This is one of those questions that elicits much gnashing of teeth, along with oil change interval and 87 octane vs. "premium". It comes down to opinion and the various factors:

Length of storage (weeks, months, longer)
Engine type (two-stroke vs. four, cylinder wall linings, carb type, etc.)
Climate (humidity, temperature)
Oil and fuel types

Running a two-stroke engine dry means depriving it of lubrication, if only for a few seconds. I'm not sure how effective residual lubrication is, and that probably depends on the oil type.

So, I personally like a hybrid program of sorts. I stabilize my fuel, and I run my machines every month or 6 weeks to normal operating temperature. This way they stay lubricated, the carburetor circuits don't dry out, and I don't run them without lubricant.


What is the proper installation of a dimmer switch?

After a comment I think I understand your question more clearly.

Firstly, if there is 18 gauge wiring in your house then this is likely not to code and you might consider having an electrician take a look.  Too small of a conductor can be a fire hazard!  Lets hope you are referring to the fixture wiring.

With regards to cabel labeling, the -2 just refers to how many conductors are in the cable (14-2 actually has 3 - a hot, neutral and ground.  A 14-3 has 2 hots, neutral and ground).

Assuming the dimmer is rated for the load of the light, you can use the dimmer with the smaller conductor.  Just be sure to use the screw terminals and not the push-in terminals (if it has these) as they will not hold the smaller conductor.

If the breaker is tripping it means you miswired it; likely you have shorted the hot to the neutral. You want the dimmer to be in-line with the hot and not across both wires. If you are in North America, the hot side of the plug is the smaller of the holes.

Some electronic dimmers also have a neutral on them so they can be powered independently of the light.


Fire safety for room on interior of home

Swap the lower-left office and the center "bedroom"
The easiest fix for this will likely be to swap the office space in the lower-left of your picture with the "bedroom" in the middle, as the former is large enough to be used as a bedroom and conforms otherwise as well.
As to other approaches...
The problem with the alternative you've floated of using sprinklers to make up for the deficiency you have noted is that the governing Codes that are in use in various jurisdictions disagree about their validity.  In your case, your jurisdiction uses a code (an amended version of the California Residential Code) that is based off the International Residential Code (IRC), which in R310, requires that basements, habitable attics, and sleeping rooms have an operable "emergency escape and rescue opening", normally implemented as an operable window of a specified minimum size, and only exempts sprinklered dwellings from that requirement if you're talking about a basement bedroom in a basement that either overall has such an opening in addition to a standard egress means, or two full means of egress (the latter would come into play in a walkout basement, for instance).
However, not all jurisdictions adopt the IRC or a code based on it.  Instead, they adopt the NFPA's Life Safety Code alongside a local or national building code; it is even possible for a jurisdiction to adopt both the IRC and the LSC, although such a jurisdiction will likely use local amendments to cross-correlate the two.  Under the LSC (NFPA 101) regime, what you describe would be permitted, as while the LSC requires a secondary "means of escape" (again, an operable window or door of a certain minimum size) from all living and sleeping spaces in 24.2.2.1.1 (which'd include your office), it exempts sprinklered dwellings from that provision altogether in 24.2.2.1.2, provided the sprinklers conform with NFPA standards.
Nonetheless, I have no qualms about recommending a fire sprinkler retrofit anyway; California has required fire sprinklers in new residential construction for years now, so you don't have to worry about dealing with daft water utilities or contractors who won't give you the time of day.  Your primary challenge will be the probable need to upsize your water service line from the street to provide 15-30GPM at sufficient residual pressure for the system to operate properly, as many residential water services are only 5/8" or 3/4" in diameter and thus lose too much pressure if you try to make them flow that much water; a more practical minimum is 1", with 1.25" preferred, although this does not mean your meter has to be that large, as fire sprinkler water is not metered in most jurisdictions.


I'll flesh out my comment into an answer.  If this is a newer furnace, no gas will flow if the pilot light is out.  I don't have much experience with furnaces, so for all I know, they were always made like this.

I do have experience with water heaters.  When you light the pilot on your furnace, do you have to hold a button down for a long time while lighting to get the pilot to stay lit?  Or do you just have to turn on the gas and light it?

If you have to hold down a button, then the appliance has the safety feature that will cut off the gas when the pilot goes out.  Holding down the button bypasses the safety valve so some gas will come out and allow you to light the pilot.  Once lit the safety is disengaged.


Electrical hum noise from shower fan electrics box

Electrical hum like that can be a symptom of a loose connection in the wiring.  It's possible that something came loose when the wires were pushed up into the junction box.  If so, the worst case would be an electrical fire, so it's definitely something to have looked at.  Less terribly, you could lose power to the fan, where you'd probably have the electrician out again anyway.

If you're comfortable looking into it yourself, turn off power to that circuit at the service panel, open the cover and look at each of the connections.  Your profile doesn't say where you are, but in the US, wires are usually connected using electrical nuts.  Tug gently on each wire going into the nut -- there shouldn't be any give.  If there is, remove the nut, arrange the wires so that they're parallel, use a pliers to twist them together, then screw the nut back on.  People often wrap electrical tape around the open end of the nut, but it isn't required.


Any lock can be opened.  The questions are:

How long will it take?
How much skill is required?
What tools are needed?

Depending on the particular deadbolt, it will be somewhere between trivial and moderately difficult. At some point, anyone who wants to get in will just move to the windows or other weak points.


Is there quick setting “gap filling” adhesive?

This can depend on the size of the gap and the materials being joined.  Two options come to mind that differ extremely.

First there is '5 minute' epoxy.  Mix the two parts, hold for approx five minutes and its pretty set.

Second, for very small gaps, there is gap filling Cyanoacrylate glue.  Then to get it to set  fast you can use an accelerator that you spray on to it once its where you want.  I doubt this is what you are looking for though.  Its common to use this approach for filling voids in wood before finish sanding.


How to seal seams between wooden deck rails?

Miter joints are almost always susceptible to expansion issues like this. It's worse when exposed to direct moisture and heat. Caulking isn't going to entirely stop that from happening--may make it worse if it clogs the joint and leads to worse separation.

Some ideas:

Fabricate a metal wrap and drip ledge for the corner, if not the whole rail.
Rebuild with a different wood that's more stable.
Rebuild out of a composite material that'll never move.
Rebuild with a different joint maybe a simple butt or lap. In either case, consider sealing the end grain with epoxy or spar varnish to inhibit moisture wicking up the grain.


Should I install drywall or plywood above a drop ceiling to increase the insulation value?

If your in a cold weather area a layer of poly creates a vapor barrier, otherwise Drywall and plywood have no insulation value. Notes for the insulation between roof trusses:

4" cavity space: R-13 or R-15 batts,
6" cavity space: R-19 or R-21 batts,
if it's a wide open attic, use an R-30 or R-38 batt.


Another trick, actually a variation of that of @agentp, is to use wire mesh (also called hardware cloth) instead of a wood strip.  Choose one with small holes, 1/8" if you can find it, 1/4" is real common in the building stores. It is particularly useful when the thickness of the material is thin (as in the case of interior hollow-core doors 1/8" luan or mahogany plywood is typical)resulting in a patch that would be thin and prone to cracking out.  The holes in the mesh allow for more of the filler to pass into it and lock the patch in place, much like wire lath in traditional plaster work.  The down side is it is harder to glue in place and needs a more viscous product like liquid nails. The basic procedure is the same.

Cut a strip of wire mesh that will just fit into the hole width-wise but is several inches longer.
Apply ample Liquid Nails or similar viscous/thick general purpose construction adhesive to the ends of the mesh strip.
Tie string on the mesh such that they will be near the edges of the hole.
Thread the mesh into the hole, holding the strings so not to lose
the strip in the door cavity.
Tie the strings to a wood slat that spans the hole, paint stirring
sticks work great and can be picked up for free.
Give the construction adhesive plenty of time to dry.
Patch the hole with a quality wood filler. Plan on doing it in a
couple coats since the fist coat will want to press though the mesh
and be nearly impossible to get smooth.

Sand, prime and paint.

Much more involved way but potentially more sturdy repair.
Another way to go about fixing holes in paint-grade thin panels is to fill them with with a plug.  But it assumes that you have a number of tools at your disposal and it if you don't it would probably be cheaper to pick up a new door blank and just replace the entire door.  This suggesting may not work on yours if the wood between the holes is too damaged.  In the pictures, it looks like it could be split.

You need to have sharp holes saws, and not the one or two tooth varieties for fast wood boring, they will tear thin plywood.  You need to have a size that is just a little larger than the hole and then another that will cut a piece that is just barely under the size of the hole cut by the other hole saw. Or you could use the same and just use more filler to make up the 1/8" or so difference.  You will need plywood the same thickness as the door panel, typically 1/8".  You will need at least one piece of plywood 1/2" to 3/4" thick and nearly as wide as the door that will become a hole-saw guide.  You will need two scraps of plywood several inches square and two clamps that will open wide enough to accept the hole-saw guide thickness, the door thickness and the scraps thickness. Polyurethane wood glue, like gorilla glue for example. Wood filler.  Minwax make a "High performance" wood filler that is a two-part system that works well and is very similar to Bondo, just not red. Putty knife, sanding block (can wrap sandpaper around block of wood is fine), sandpaper, window scraper, and wood slats like paint stir sticks.

Hole saws are guided by a pilot bit, but that means there has to be material for the pilot bit to bore into.  You take the piece of plywood that will be the hole saw guide and set it across the door width next to a hole and mark on it were the hole is and then position it carefully so the mark is the center of the hole, clamps it to the door using the scraps to protect the other side of the door.  You then use the hole saw to drill a hole through the guide plywood and into the door panel, do not drill into the opposite door panel with the pilot bit or hole saw. This takes careful control and the door should be taken down and put on saw horses by the way. Also, the pilot bit can be adjusted so that only a 1/2" or so is past the hole saw.  You do this for all the holes in the door.

Then you use glue the slats into the holes as you would in @agentp advice above.  While that glue is drying, cut enough plugs from the 1/8" plywood with the larger hole saw.  Use a scrap of plywood as back and clamp them together and onto a study work surface.  Use some sandpaper to clean up the splinted edges and make sure the back is flat.  Glue the plugs to the wooden slats in the door.  Spread the glue thin so you don't have the plug higher than the surface of the door.  Place a weight in the center of each plug and let it all dry.

The polyurethane glue will expand out around the plug.  When it is dry you can slice it off with a sharp window scraper, the kind with a single edge razor blade in it.  The mix the filler in small batches very well but not too long (follow the instructions on it) and fill the hole in the center of the plug and the around its edges.  Work quickly and don't try to go back over the same place too much.  Better to have to do more coats than deal with a mess from dragging the patch that is curing out.  Leave as little patch on the surface of the door as you can.  More careful coats are better than few sloppy coats.  Clean your putty knife with the window scraper and some acetone or MEK in between mixing batches. Also clean the mixing container well too. Partially cured patch will cause new batches to cure too fast.

Let the patch dry until all the tackiness is gone and then sand.  100 grit, 150 grit then 220 grit should give a nice smooth surface.  You will have to smooth into the existing paint films when sanding to make the patch invisible.

This will be a lot of work but will make a better patch. When done very carefully it can even work with non-paint grade doors and wood paneling patches but can be hard to match grain and pattern and is never really invisible, in which case you would cut the plugs on a drill press with a circle cutter and use a forstner bit on the door panel if possible (depends on size of hole). But with that many holes that close together, it may really be a new door blank is the better way to go.  If you have a Habitat for Humanity ReStore in your area you may be able to get a door blank or even a pre-hung and just give them back the frame, for less or equal that it would be to buy supplies and maybe tools if you don't have them to try and patch the door.


How can I temporarily remedy the rotten, leaky roof on a mobile home?

Purchase a roll of reinforced (fiber-embedded) polyethylene sheeting of a size adequate to cover your entire roof. Also purchase enough 2x4 lumber to ring the entire roof, minus 10% or so. Procure a hammer or squeeze stapler and staples, 3" construction screws, and a good cordless drill and bit.

Roll the tarp out over the roof. Trim it so that the tarp extends past the roof about 18" on all sides. Staple the lumber to the edge of the tarp, then roll it in the tarp until the lumber is inside the edge of the roof. Screw through the tarp and lumber into framing below.

Do this all the way around, leaving gaps of 6-10" between each board. Now cut drain holes in the gaps between the lumber along the eaves (as opposed to the "rakes", or the sloped roof edges).

If you have penetrations (plumbing and furnace vents, for example), you'll need to find a way to waterproof them as well. You may be able to sandwich an open cap down on them to pinch the tarp, sealing it to the vent opening.

Finally, lay sand bags or other stable, heavy materials on the tarp as needed to prevent billowing in the wind, which will eventually tear the tarp.


How do I install hanging cabinets with a flimsy backing?

I was just looking at the site you mentioned in your question. Definitely  factful, but not the best DIY tutorial, and leaves out many alternative methods. I have always preferred to mount cabinets through the backer above the top panel of the cabinet so the mounting screws do not show inside the cabinet. Even cabinets with a thin flimsy back panel can be successfully hung to the studs if you interlock the jams with cabinet screws( clamp the cabinets together and install a 1 1/4 inch counter sunk cabinet screw through the jam to secure it to adjacent jam) and then use a screw that has a washer mounded right to it, Yes, a special cabinet mounting screw, to secure cabinet to the wall at each stud. There is usually about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of some sort of frame or panel extending above and below the box area of the cabinet. This area top and bottom is the best place to install the screws.  Another method is to install a good looking ledger level under the cabinets for them to rest on, taking most of the load away from the screws holding the cabinets to the wall.  There are some great how to videos on the "This Old House" web site, check them out.


Latex paint to magnet non-toxic adhesive

Automotive trim mounting tape: this is very strong double sided tape, I hope you're not renting.


Assuming by "fail" you just mean crack, deteriorate, or otherwise fall apart, just caulking will be fine. The gasket was probably a time-saver that came with the sink, but typical undermount installations just use caulk to seal the gap.

Trying to remove and replace the whole sink is a real project -- they're glued and clipped to the counter. I replaced my undermount sink, which looked much like yours, with a single-basin granite undermount... it took a full day and plenty of cursing.


How to determine how many gallons of oil your oval tank holds?

Your tank is in fact not oval, but stadium in profile. (Yes, that's where the sports facilities got their name.)

In the case of a tank measuring 60" × 40" × 27", your volume is (nominally) that of a box measuring 60 × (40-27) × 27 plus a cylinder of diameter 27 (radius 13.5) and length 60.

60 × 13 × 27 = 21,060 cubic inches (91.17 gallons)

π × 13.52 × 60 = 34,353 cubic inches (148.71 gallons)

Add those together and you get 239.88 gallons. 240 gallons is a reasonably common size for a residential oil tank.


Is adhering EPDM foil directly onto a slightly porous layer of bitumen to fix a leaking flat roof a good idea?

Your new roof needs to “move” independently from the old roof. In order for your new single ply membrane to be separated from the old roof, you need to add a “slip sheet”.

I’d use a geotextile fabric and fasten it down “mechanically”. That is to say, use a special fastener to screw it down. It’s about 45 mil thick and the single ply membrane can be attached to it.

The slip sheet can be extended up a parapet wall, around vents, over curbs, etc., so the new single ply roofing can completely seal the roof.

How the single ply membrane is attached to the slip sheet, depends on the type of single ply roofing you use.

BTW, you can take this opportunity to add rigid insulation down before you install the single ply membrane too. However, make sure vapor barriers, venting (or eliminating it), etc. is proper before choosing this installation.


Transition piece first or baseboard first?

I would imagine it's a matter of preference, but IMO the transition is part of the floor and the baseboard is part of the wall.  Given that the transition will blend in with the floor, I'd be inclined to put the baseboards on first and then cut the transition to fit.  It's also generally simpler to cut something to length than it is to notch something cleanly and precisely.

Ultimately I don't think there are any severe consequences for doing it one way rather than another.


How to tell if an air-separator is working

The maintenance and operation documentation, for what I think is your model, provides the following steps if service is required.

  WARNING! System fluid under pressure can be very hazardous. Before removing the vent head for inspection, reduce system pressure to zero,
  or isolate the Spirovent from the system. Allow the system to cool to
  below 100°F. Failure to follow these instructions may cause serious
  bodily injury or property damage.

  Using two strap wrenches, hold the body in place in the piping while
  removing the vent head, taking care not to damage the O-ring. Pipe
  wrenches may be used, but they can leave marks in the brass.
  To clean the vent head, use a mild detergent and water or vinegar
  and water solution. For extremely dirty conditions, soak the head in
  mineral spirits for several hours and then clean thoroughly. The
  vent head is available as a replacement part if necessary. Use part
  number PJR000HA. Assembly includes the O-ring.
  While the vent head is removed, remove the coalescing medium from
  the body and rinse thoroughly with mild detergent and water or
  vinegar and water to remove any system contaminants.
  Examine O-ring before installing on the Spirovent and replace if
  necessary. Use part number PJR000RG.
  Reassemble the Spirovent.
  Return system to operating condition.

It's a bit of work, but I think it will be the most complete way to ensure the vent is in good condition.


Is it possible that no water running to one toilet could be from frozen pipes?

It could very well be a frozen pipe, it could also be that the valve has become clogged somehow.

The only way to tell for sure if its a frozen pipe is either find the frozen pipe, or wait for it to thaw. If water starts flowing when the temperature warms up then you know it was frozen.

If you have copper pipes, the worst case would be that when it thaws you discover a leak from a burst pipe. With this in mind, it is probably worth opening up the wall to find out for sure - way easier to replace a cleanly cut section of drywall then it is to fix extensive water damage.  Once you find the section you need to determine why it froze - is there no insulation in there? Can you remedy that?


This is pretty easy with a relay:

Just be sure to size the relay appropriately for your load (I used a light but it could be anything).


Why isn't my Genie keypad communicating with my Genie garage door opener?

Your best bet is to call Genie customer service. They will be able to confirm if the keypad is truly compatible with your exact model opener. They can walk you through all possible troubleshooting steps while on the phone, and what the next step would be if they can't resolve your problem. The one time I called them the time on hold was minimal and I was not endlessly transferred around to find the right person.