Sink clogged completely when using NaOH drain cleaner

How to unclog it

!!! WARNING !!!
Put on gloves, and full face protection gear! NaOH can cause severe burns or even permanently blind you. You wouldn't want even a droplet on your eyes, since (unlike your skin) they have no protection at all.

(Before trying my method below, give a try to the other suggestion by @Jaroslav Voller. Try not to pierce the pipe if you use a screwdriver, though.)

Take 2-3 straws and insert each one into the holes. No I'm not joking.

Then pour hot water through them using your tap. The hotter the water the more soluble NaOH and the salts you created, will be. Which will make the whole process faster. Just let the water run until it is unclogged.

Be careful with this water since it contains large amounts of NaOH and is corrosive.

This will remove the NaOH layer, but your initial problem will probably not be solved so you will have to try using the drain cleaner again, but this time use less NaOH.

Why it happened

The grid at the entrance of the pipe reduces water flow. My assumption is that the excessive amount of NaOH you used, along with the reduced water flow right after, caused the NaOH to boil instantly the small amount of water that was already present and formed the solid NaOH layer which you described.

Pouring water doesn't work because the water already present, along with the grid, reduces the flow above the NaOH layer, meaning it will dissolve very slowly or perhaps not at all.

When you started throwing the citric acid, it dissolved in the water and reacted with the NaOH, increasing the temperature locally and also creating a sort of "salt", sodium citrate.

Initially it was soluble but as soon as it's concentration increased and the temperature dropped, it's solubility dropped as well, forming a layer of salt (blue color in the figure below), which actually separated your acid and base. This is why they stopped reacting.

Using the straws to guide the water flow directly on those layers will do the trick. The layers will be dissolved within a few minutes.

Note: Colors in the figures do not represent the actual colors of the substances used.


This is what I ended up using.  I got them at a store in the UK called ToolStation.

Here are the contents of the box.  The only thing  I needed was the light itself (lower left); all of the other stuff is waste.


How do I achieve required torque when using an impact driver?

"How do I achieve the same torque repeatedly for multiple nuts when using an impact driver?"

Short of manually using a torque wrench like woodchips recommends, you don't.  The point of an impact driver is not to apply a consistent torque.  It is to apply more torque than can be obtained from a traditional driver.  One of the more common uses is to loosen seized up, or over-tightened bolts/screws.  I also use mine quite a bit when driving screws into wood when the final torque doesn't matter (e.g.- I just need the screw head to be slightly below the surface of the wood..  rough work).

In other words, if your need is consistent torque, an impact driver is not the tool for the job.  A traditional clutched driver is going to be more appropriate.


Water has quit running thru my humidifier.

Novice
Check the humidity
The humidifier should only turn on if the humidity is below a set level.  Make sure the humidity is actually below this level.
Clean the inlet
Check the inlet (where the water comes in), and make sure it's not all gunked up.
Check the valve
If the humidifier supply line connects to the water supply via a saddle valve, close and reopen the valve (and consider replacing the valve, which will require shutting off the water since the valve pokes a hole in the pipe).
Set the humidistat
If a humidistat is used, make sure it's set properly.
Intermediate
Check for water at the solenoid
Close the valve supplying the humidifier, and remove the supply tube from the supply side of the solenoid. Open the valve just a bit, and make sure water is coming from the tube.
TIP: Wrap a rag/towel around the open end of the hose, and hold it tight when opening the valve.  The rag/towel will prevent the water from spraying out the end of the tube. Also, don't forget to hold the rag/towel wrapped tube over a bucket.
Check for power at the humidistat
Open up the humidistat, and use a multimeter/voltmeter to make sure the humidistat has power (most likely 24 volts).
NOTE: Depending on the installation, the humidistat may only have power when the furnace is running.
Check for power at the solenoid
With the humidistat open, and the furnace running. Set the humidistat to the highest setting, and check to see if you have voltage going to the solenoid.


You don't necessarily need to elevate it to protect it from the dirt.  They make a water heater drain pain http://www.homedepot.com/p/24-in-Plastic-Water-Heater-Drain-Pan-15021/204834496 for this purpose.  (I have no affiliation with home depot, they just have a conveniently searchable site).  They're 1) cheap 2) solve your problem and 3) have a hose fitting to attach a line to your sump pit or floor drain.


How can I attach things to the inside of a shipping container without compromising the water tightness?

You can do this without disturbing the walls or ceiling of the container.  Frame thin wall sections on opposite sides (use 2x3s instead of 2x4s to minimize the loss of width).  Run 2x3 joists between the two sides at the ceiling.  You will then have a free-standing, three-sided structure.

With it tight against the walls and ceiling, it can't go anywhere, so you don't need to worry about bracing it so that it doesn't tilt.

You can mount to it, hang lighting fixtures from it, etc., without having to secure it to the container.


Line tester reads power to 220V outlet when the breaker is off

I'm not clear how you traced the wire, unless it's exposed the whole way?

If you do have access to the wire, even if it's just when it enters the panel, you should use a non-contact voltage detector to check for power. When you flip the breaker, it should go off.

There's a possibility that there are two feeds to the outlet. I would start by going through all breakers one-by-one (or several at a time, to narrow it down) to see if the power shuts off.

Keep in mind that you can get 220 by bridging two 120V breakers, and so one single breaker may not turn off all power. This setup is not legal, but it sounds like it may not be wired correctly anyway - don't make any assumptions when it comes to bad wiring!

Worst case, shut off all breakers, and confirm the power goes out. Then start turning things back on (an assistant and/or non-contact detector that beeps will help you here).

I personally would not touch any of those wires while my meter still read voltage, and I recommend no one else does either.


Do powerline adaptors need to be plugged into outlets that are on the same leg

I did the unthinkable, and started to read the manual for the product you linked, and in the troubleshooting section there is a theme:

Try another wall socket and make sure all powerline devices are on the same electrical circuit.

If you search the PDF for "circuit" you find this phrase several times.  I didn't find where the manual lists using the same phase or circuit as a hard requirement, but you can infer from the troubleshooting that they fully expect you to use the same circuit, which I think is a "dumbed down" way of saying it should be the same phase/leg.
I also found this in their FAQ section:

Q3.5: Can Powerline adapters work if they are separated by different electric circuits?
A: No. If they can pair in the same room, but the powerline LED turns off when you move one powerline device to another area, this usually means they are plugged into separate electrical circuits, preventing them from communicating. Please try different locations.

I think they are being a little concervative, because I do have powerline adapters on different breakers, and they work reliably.
Netgear is more optimistic, which muddies the waters a bit because most of these devices are based on the same protocols and theorys:

Can powerline be used in homes across multiple phases?
Yes, but you will either suffer a noticeable loss in performance, or if the signal is too low the units will not be able to communicate.

Finally the Homeplug (standard the devices use) wiki page states:

One of the greatest technical challenges was finding a way to reduce sensitivity to the electrical noise present on power lines. HomePlug solved this problem by increasing the communication carrier frequencies so that the signal is conveyed by the neutral conductor, which is common to all phases.

In conclusion, the answer appears to be a big "Maybe".


First I would go with warm white lights not the cool white, I think it makes a softer look to the bedroom.

In terms of the switching, yes a push button switch would work fine, you just have to make sure that the switch is within spec for the lights used. I have rather opted for a dimmable solution with my childrens beds. since they like to have some light at night. a good option here is this:

Its rated up to 8 amps, so if you look at the strip in your post, it consumes 2.5amps per 5m section used. (provided that you buy a transformer that can supply up to the required amps (ie 2.5amps per meter) -- you can buy a smaller amp transformer, but the lights will not be optimally bright at the highest level.

Your switches are only rated 3 amps, which means you can run about 5 meters of your spec LED Strip.  -- Also to note, I would go with a stronger LED strip, generally 1 amp per meter is a nice powerful light (then you would only need a meter per child)

Another thing to consider, is the use of the 3color led's whereby you can have a color chooser.. but that may be getting too complicated.

Your series vs parallel question: You must definitely hook up the two lights in parallel, but just accomodate for the increased amps which will be required. The lights will draw the amps needed so you cannot really blow anything (its the volts which will blow the lights)

Finally: I find that the higher power led strips get a little warm, (meaning that the sticky tape sides start to get less effective over time). would be best to stick the strip to a metal surface if you could choose (it would act as a heat sync)

I actually ended up using a Chinese paper lantern to put the led strip in, it looked quite nice.


can I use a 10WATT LED BR30 on a recessed light trim that says MAX:9W BR30 LED?

I'm not sure anyone can give you a definitive answer on this.  You could ask the manufacturer whether 10 watts is close enough, but they came up with 9 watts as the maximum; if 10 watts was really the maximum, they would have labelled it 10 watts.  That said, I'll offer a guess.

I can't envision a 110V fixture where a 10 watt load would overheat the wiring or electrical elements, or damage the fixture.  My guess is that the rating relates to the LED bulb.  LED bulbs need to dissipate the heat they produce in order to keep the electronics in a working temperature range.  If you exceed the maximum temperature range for the bulb, the bulb will have a much shorter life.

Recessed fixtures trap heat.  The 9 watts probably reflects the amount of heat it can get rid of to keep up with what the bulb produces.  A higher wattage bulb will generate heat faster than the fixture can dissipate, so the temperature inside the fixture will continue to rise.  Eventually, it will exceed the maximum temperature the bulb is designed to operate in, and the bulb will have a short life.


How do I install this motion-sensing light switch?

You're required by law to follow the labeling and instructions.   This is not optional.

Fortunately, your box contains both real neutral and real ground, so you can provide whatever any smart switch will require.   The switched hot is a red wire, which makes it even more straightforward.  Unfortunately your drywaller or painter painted all your wires, very sloppy, so you'll need to scrape a bit to identify colors.

You can't put two wires on the same screw.   You would need to pull the solitary ground wire off the screw to the left, put a 6-8” pigtail ground wire n that same screw, then splice the pigtail, freed ground and smart switch grounds together.


Installing PEX pipes close to heating vents

Great questions! Yeah, I agree that the 1/4" AIN'T RIGHT. Have him replace those sections. A body-spray setup needs all it can get.

Being close to Ductwork is fine, the hot water is hotter than the ductwork will ever get. FYI, the Blue PEX is just coloring and is exactly the same as the Red PEX. However, PEX cannot withstand a furnace flue's/exhaust pipe's temperatures, ensure PEX is not touching nor even within 2' (my requirement) of that Ductwork.

Yes, there is a way to test the Plumber's crimping workmanship. It's a Go/No-Go gauge and he should be using one himself...likely molded/carved onto his crimper. See https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/plumbing-tools/pex-tools/nibco-reg-go-no-go-pex-crimp-gauge/px01382r1/p-1444449294533.htm

So many fittings? Yep, kind of kills the "PEX advantage", doesn't it...soldering ain't slow and only gets A LOT faster in your kind of shower setup. I'm not a fan of PEX. It's only good for 50-years and copper is good for OVER 100-years (in most areas)...which house would you buy...sell in 20-years or less.

By the way, while you have some access to duct joints, liberally wrap the joints with Aluminum Foil Tape...the real duct tape.


can someone disarm our ADT alarm system by removing the cable?

When an alarm trips, it can send out one or more of three types of alerts:

local - an audible alarm rings at the property
direct police connection - when the alarm rings, it goes off in the police station itself (rare)
central station - an alarm goes to the alarm monitoring company, which then alerts the police in certain circumstances (such as no one answers or fails to give a password following a callback to the house).

Some alarm setups are local only, some remote (police or central station) only, and some are both.

Two things control whether the alarm will go out:

is there power?
is there a connection to the monitor (if any)

Almost all serious alarms have battery backup to ensure that, even if the power is cut, the basic alarm system is still functional. If there is no battery backup, cutting power lines will nullify the alarm.

Local: Assuming power, AC or battery, a local alarm will ring upon intrusion, regardless of whether cables are cut.

Remote: Connections to police or central stations are most often handled through conventional telephone lines.  These may be landline connections or cable/internet connections (if phone service is via the cable system or other internet provider).

Even if power is cut, landline telephone service is often still active, since landlines have their own power feed. But if the telephone line is cut, the signal cannot go out.

Cable/internet phone, on the other hand, relies on modems that need AC power. If power is cut, cable phone does not work. If the cable line is cut, this would also prevent a signal going out.

Cellular remote: Some alarm systems offer a cellular connection. This is like having a dedicated cellphone built into the alarm system. These systems function even if the landline or cable line is cut. They will continue to function even if the AC power is cut (assuming a battery backup, which would be standard on a cellular type setup).

Whether your system would survive a wire attack depends on the type of system you have. Only a cellular based system with a battery backup can withstand all attacks on the wires that feed a property.  But many systems will detect a disruption of power or telephone connection, make a call to the owner to see if there is a problem, and alert authorities of the monitor does not get satisfactory assurances. The level of security is a function of how much you are willing to pay and how concerned you are about various levels of risk, and the particular protocols of the alarm monitoring service.


What may be happening is the padding under the carpet is not attached to the floor. Since the installer could not hammer staple the padding to the tile (ceramic?) floor it should have been glued with an adhesive made specifically for carpet padding. Glue is applied to the floor so that a continuous bead of glue will contact the edging of the pad. Also, a less likely cause maybe the carpet itself is loose. To check, at the center of the room that is producing the noise, pinch the carpet nap and pull upwards. The amount of carpet that is pulled away from the floor should be minute. If not it will need to be re-stretched and the tackles checked.


How do I fix this HORRIBLE drywall patch?

It's not as bad as you think.  Someone just skipped the last step in drywall repair, and proceeded to paint.  The wonderful thing about drywall is that when you screw up, you can generally fix it without starting over.
As another poster suggested, you just need to feather everything out, and sand.  I'm not a pro drywaller, but I'd think you could get away with just one application of mud+sanding.
Check out this guy on youtube, who gives pretty good advice on drywalling techniques.  I'd highly recommend youtube for something like this, as it's hard to describe drywall techniques in words or even pictures.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUcT5LHmA7w


Can I use dedicated pool heat pump for heating water in the house?

There's no free lunch. Really.
Saying a heat pump is an over-unity engine ignores why it works: It takes something from something else; i.e. it creates an externality. Ignoring those is a common error of over-unity believers.
Heat energy is the level of excitation of atoms.  It generally stores on a per-atom basis not a per-gram basis.  What's relevant there is that water is the densest thermal media known, because it has 3 fairly lightweight atoms in a small space.  Raising 1kg of water 1 degree requires reducing a great deal more than 1kg of other stuff 1 degree.  1kg of air is a lot of air.
Also heat pumps aren't always one particular efficiency.  Their efficiency varies based on conditions.  For instance if  you have 10C/50F pool water on a 35C/100F day, the heat pump is "pumping downhill" as I like to say, and it will be quite efficient there.  Raising 20C pool water to 23C/75F on a 11C/52F day is a great deal harder and less efficient.  The 6:1 efficiency you claim is only valid in certain test conditions.
"To keep the heat pump in its working range, I'm placing its condenser inside the utility room".
The heat pump will steal heat from the room and place it in the water.  That gives you 2 choices, neither one good:

allow it to chill the room, reducing the heat pump's efficiency badly, until it gets to 10C/50F, at which point the unit shuts off, or reaches 1.0 efficiency at which point it amounts to electrically heating the water "the hard way". Or
divert additional heat into the utility room, which you then have to pay for. Now if your regular hot water heater is gas, and your house's furnace is gas, then it's six of one, half dozen of the other.  Except you are paying the pumping costs also.  So it's a net lose.

"I'll just eject the chilled air outside, then. SOLVED!"
Except when you push air out of your house, you draw a vacuum (negative millibar) inside your house, and air simply leaks in somewhere else.  This "makeup air" now needs conditioning.  Now you have 2 problems.

You are "heating the great outdoors" by intaking -5C air and ejecting 10C air.
The makeup air is much drier than the air that went into the heat pump.  Here we must do a deep dive into latent heat of vaporization, but the upshot is that water vapor in the air stores a great deal of energy - 2,258 J/g or 1 megajoule per pound.  When your process has the effect of reducing humidity, it's throwing away this latent energy, which must be made up for real.  Effectively, "heating the great outdoors" and "humidifying the great outdoors" is the same thing.

Some of this latent energy goes into the water - the heat pump's evaporator (of freon) condenses water, and that 2,258 J/g went into the hot water, which at least isn't "humidifying the great outdoors", but still presents the same problems I discussed in the first part.  Your humidifier must make up for this lost humidity, by boiling water into the air, again at 2,258 J/g.  Even if it's a sparger humidifier (which sprays a fine mist which spontaneously evaporates, there's still no free lunch; that evaporation happened by stealing the 2,258 J/g out of the air, reducing its temperature and the heater must work harder to compensate.
If you want a heat pump water heater, just buy one.
They are readily available.  However they solve none of the above problems. They're not the panacea one might make them out to be.
However... if the heat pumps could be water sourced.... (i.e. their interchange fluid is water instead of air)... different deal.  Now you can pump water out of the aquifer and put the heated/cooled water back in (at a different height obviously, so you aren't trying to chill water you just chilled).
And if you're where I think you are, you have a second option, as long as you don't mind a house that is 7' or 13' wide (depending on if you're willing to limit yourself to broad canals).  You can interchange to canal water (uptake from one end of the boat, discharge to the other).  Or simply run a bunch of glycol loops before you pour floor insulation, and use the boat's entire steel bottom as your heatsink, without ever having to clean a clogged filter! Covering an entire boat roof and upper sides with walkable solar panels has not been done. So much opportunity for innovation!
Other complications
Placing the heat pump on the intake line to the water heater is a lost cause.  Water only moves through that pipe while hot water is being used. (cold water pushes out the hot water, that's how the pressurization works; the volume of actual water in the tank remains the same). Doing that would be like having a "tankless on-demand heat-pump water heater" and that would require a positively enormous freon engine and evaporator, we're talking 20,000 joules/second (aka watts).
Having the heat pump recirculate through the water heater (out the drain valve, in the cold) won't work either, because its maximum temp is below the  water heater's minimum temp.
"It will work at night when the water heater gets super cold"  Actually, any competent, modern tanked water heater will hold usable temperature for at least 12 hours after power loss; and if it doesn't because it's old, they make rockwool insulation kits for them.   Of course, hot water won't be replaced as it's used, but yeah, you can get a shower before the system turns the heat back on.
"Storing water around 100F, what could possibly go wrong?"  Actually it'll breed all sorts of bacteria, including legionella.  (you may not have heard this because it's relatively new science, partly arising from the fiasco in Flint, Michigan.  Tiny amounts of bacteria were in water pipes because of a botched water-supply changeover [from the regional lake-water system shared by most suburbs, to obsolete plant drawing from the Flint River]. That, plus the "petri dish" effects of water heaters kept at 40-55C, created a perfect storm.)


"Exterior grade" is confusing. The fact is that much of the plywood you encounter already is exterior grade, which (as you've stated) just refers to the adhesive used to bond the plies. It has nothing to do with wood preservation, for example. CDX is the rough grade I'd encounter in the U.S. for this purpose. The 'X' implies exterior adhesive.
Sealing plywood to achieve the same effect probably isn't a good approach. For one thing it'll change how your mortar bonds. For another, it isn't reliable as you'll be puncturing it with a hundred screws.


Do 90 degree shelf pins need to sit flush with wood?

The same shape shelf pins are available in the same size you need. The pin is measured at the part that goes into the hole, some are 5MM, some are 1/4" I have never seen 7/16" or 5/16"


WHirlpool Super capacity 465 I hear gas at burners but will not ignite even with a match. I hear no gas in oven area

WARNING  WARNING*****THIS IS NOT A JOB FOR AN AMATEUR****WARNING  WARNING
I'm going to make a guess here; hopefully it can help.  I wager that somehow a large bubble of air or very low concentrate gas has gotten into the line and is giving you trouble.  If this is true here is the fix.  First ventilate the area very well; open all windows and doors to allow lots of fresh air to the immediate area.  Keep them open.  Now find a point on the gas supply line to the appliance that is accessible and has a union type fitting.  Find the appliance gas shut-off valve. It should be in the area.  Turn it off.  On the down-stream side of the service valve, break this fitting; unscrew this fitting completely. This will allow you to dump a large amount of gas in a short period of time to clear the line effectively under very controlled conditions. Now open the gas valve all the way.  Allow this gas line to vent for 15 to 20-seconds.  The gas should smell like rotten eggs and the smell should get worse as the gas concentrates.  Close the service valve.  Now leave the gas valve in the off position turn and leave the area for a good 4-minutes.  Do not turn on or off any lights in the area.  Basically don't do anything but leave the area.  After the allotted time return and reconnect the gas line tightly.  Reopen the gas service valve.  Now again try to light the appliance.  Hopefully, the results will be different.

WARNING WARNING****THIS IN NOT A JOB FOR AN AMATEUR****WARNING   WARNING

Servicing of the gas lines and gas supply is constantly going on upstream to your gas service.  It is the nature of life.  In the process of doing this, air is a times unintentionally allowed into the system. You may be experiencing one of these times. Good Luck and happy cooking. P.


How to properly clean a rough concrete floor?

Mopping is great. It shouldn't be that dirty subsequent times, so it won't take as long from here out. Sweeping or vacuuming before mopping will help reduce the chance of needing more than one pass.
If you want a less manual mopping, you can get a mopping floor machine, steam floor machine, or a robotic mopper (like a roomba). Or you can get a big yellow rubbermade janitor-level mop and bucket for about $75 that will make mopping a lot quicker.
Adding a floor treatment like epoxy would also help reduce the permeability and increase the smoothness of the floor, which makes sweeping and mopping more effective. You can also just get cheap indoor/outdoor carpet for the flattest parts to cut down on what need scrubbed and mopped.


Take the blue wire from the cable to the thermostat, nut it with the two blue wires in the foreground, done

The two blue wires in the foreground of your first two wiring shots are both C wires -- the thick is the C wire coming from the furnace, while the thin one is the C wire returning from the air conditioner compressor (it's the one that goes into the cable where the yellow wire was the only other wire used).  So, you can simply strip the end of the blue wire in the cable to the thermostat and include it in the junction with the two existing blue wires up front.


Does a Split Central AC condenser circuit breaker need to be GFCI protected?

A standard breaker will do just fine

Since a condensing unit isn't a dishwasher or a boat hoist, and it does not plug into a 120V or 240V, 15 or 20A receptacle, it does not fall into any of the categories listed in 210.8 that apply to dwelling units.  This means that GFCI protection is not required, and you can safely use a standard circuit breaker of the appropriate type as a result.


Hang 3 flat-screen monitors from a tilted wooden beam

Is mounting a triangle shaped hardwood block to reduce or eliminate the 30 degree angle out of the question? I would lag-bolt it to the beam and then mount the ceiling mount to that in the usual manner.

There are plenty of long extension monitor/TV ceiling mounts available which with the appropriate length, put the monitors at eye-level, but as you've found, 20 degrees is as much as the ceiling end will compensate for.

Also, several of the multi-monitor mounts use a chrome tube and the brackets are movable up and down the tube by a thumb screw arrangement. Nothing prevents you from changing the chrome tube out for your own custom length one that would extend from a drilled hole in the beam down to a floor or desk mounting block.

Having it supported on both ends also means you're not sporting a really expensive pendulum that bounces around in air currents or from the garbage truck rolling down the street.


Light bulb keeps going out, but isn't burned out.

I'd try bending the hot contact in the socket out a little bit or a different bulb. If the problem persists I'd be inspecting the connections inside the junction box.

Try a different bulb (swap in a known working bulb, and swap this one out to a known working can light).
Try bending the contact out (the pin inside the socket).
Inspect the connections (remove the three screws holding the can light housing in. Pull it out of the ceiling and now you can access the junction box).

Rub the threads of new bulbs in your hair (to lubricate them) before you insert them.


How should I cover this drainage garden pit in my front yard?

Those typically act as temporary rain water water storage tanks. The idea being to limit the demand on the sewer system during storms. The water is allowed to back-up in those pits and drain more slowly to the sewer system. They may also be used in high water table areas to collect and drain the water table before the water enters your house during the rainy or snow melt season.

You have a few choices.

You could fill it with rocks, but that would take away a lot of volume and defeat the purpose of the pit so I do not recommend it. That may also be against code in your area.

You could cover it with a grating, perhaps made from metal fencing materials or a custom grating, but that wont look that wonderful and is a pain to clean out leaves, blown in trash, or someone's cigarette butts...grrr.

You could, put a fence around it to stop folks from falling in, but again, that's a bit of an eyesore and the cleaning issue.

Personally I'd cover it entirely, leaving an air hole in the side and access to the maintenance pipe cap shown in the image. Perhaps composite decking or some other material, then make a feature out of it with planters.

My personal, preferred solution would be to turn the "decking' into a box, that is make the entire decking one big attractive planter over the open box. Would be a fun project too :) I'd make the sides of the box match the cladding I see on the wall behind. I'd also extend the maintenance pipe up through the box so you can get at it without having to remove the planter. Maybe have it end just under planter soil level.


You are experiencing a fairly normal event for a well with pump and pressure tank, though if the behavior seems new & different the pressure tank may require maintenance or repair/replacement.

Most well pumps (there are exceptions, such as "constant pressure pumps") run on a simple differential pressure switch with a 20 PSI differential (often non-adjustable) and a somewhat adjustable setting (20/40, 30/50, 40/60 are probably the most common settings.) When no water is being used, the system holds pressure due to a pressure tank; when water is used, the pump is activated when the pressure tank falls below the lower setpoint, and the pressure rises as the pump runs, until it shuts off at the higher setpoint - water has been added to the pressure tank, which again supplies water until the lower set point is reached.

If the air cell (most typical these days is a "bladder" or "diaphragm" type of tank where are and water are separated by a membrane) has inadequate pressure (possibly due to a leak) the amount of water stored in the pressure tank becomes smaller, and the pump operates more frequently - this is both more noticeable to you, and worse for the pump's life expectancy.

If you turn off your pump and drain the water from the tank, the air pressure should be roughly 2 PSI below the lower setpoint (18, 28 or 38 PSI for the typical setpoints listed above.) If you can pump it up to that value and have it stay, that may be all you need to do - if you find the pump operating more frequently in a short time (and drain the tank again and find the air pressure is lower again), or you can't pump it up at all, you may need a new pressure tank or a new bladder (I have personally found replaceable bladders to be non-ecoomical .vs. just replacing the tank - shop and see what you find.)

It is also possible that your tank is fine, but could be larger (or could be two, which is effectively larger.)

Or, you could convert to a constant pressure pump system - but those have always seemed excessively expensive to solve a "problem" that isn't really a problem with a properly designed and functioning pressure tank system - to me. That's an opinion and budget call.


Why would my bathtub spout stop leaking after fixing a water pressure issue?

Its evidently a pressure balanced valve. Most single handle valves are today.


Basement Humidity Increases When Central A/C is Running

It's pulling air from outside

When the A/C starts, it's somehow pulling more humid air from outside into the basement. Hot air can hold a lot more humidity, so on a hot day, outside air that is below 50% relative humidity enters your cold basement and becomes air that is over 50% relative humidity.

Since the basement is cool already, decide whether you want the basement as part of your AC envelope, and if so, duct and seal accordingly. As you know, AC already dehumidifies, so running a dehumidifier alongside it makes no sense.


So, based on what I can see there, that's not an ethernet patch panel.  The cabling is CAT5, which can be used for ethernet, but those are all being used for phone lines.  It looks like there's also a coax splitter, and some unused CAT5 cable.

In general, if you wanted to, you could probably repurpose that CAT5 cable and use it for ethernet, but you'd need to get an ethernet switch or hub, and find a way to get the router to connect to that switch or hub.  You'd also need to turn some/all of your phone jacks into ethernet ports. And hope that the builder didn't do something that would preclude using the CAT5 cable for ethernet.  Depending on where the line from the ISP comes in, that could be easy or hard.

Optionally, you might be able to use those  existing CAT5 runs to pull more cabling, but again, that would depend on how the contractor ran the CAT5 cable (ie, conduit vs staples).

For much more information, I'd suggest reading through https://www.structuredhomewiring.com.


Why doesn't my water pressure change when I adjust the water pressure regulator?

Sounds like the rubber diaphragm inside he pressure regulator has torn, or something is in the way.
To fix be sure you have:
A pressure gauge
2 pipe wrenches able to open to about 1 1/2"
Large channel locks could substitute for one above pipe wrench
Water meter key
Crescent wrench

And the parts.  You need to find the metal tag on the regulator it will give you the model number and information about he valve.
You need to head to the local plumbing supply I'm not sure if you will be able to find the kit at a home inprovment wharehouse

You need a rebuild kit for a ####. Whatever model you have.   They may ask the size of the regulator.

Once you have the kit.  Shut the water off.  If you have a gate style valve use the meter key at the meter instead.

Use the pipe wrenches to loosen the front packing (where the adjustment screw is ). Then break loose the two unions
From there it's just a matter of replacing the diaphragm and spring. Then install.  Don't forget to use plumbing silicone grease on the rubber parts and the gaskets in the unions

Put the gauge on the hose bib and slowly turn the water on not all the way just about 1/4 open.  Check the pressure.  Most regulators come set around 55psi  this is recommended unless you have an RO system then I recommend upwards of 70 psi.


Well I'm from America living in North Carolina but I can take a stab at it because I have a similar problem with my home. It will overpower by using too many amps. So you need to find out how many amps are on your A and B switches. I went through my house and marked everything with a removable sticker for each switch and each outlet. Then by process of elimination I found out which on/off switches and which outlets were controlled by either the A or B fuses in the box. Then you need to know how many amps your A/ B fuse can handle. If you have a 15 amp fuse then you cannot use more than those 15 amps at any given time. I hope this helps.


Go big or go home. If you're going through all the trouble to pull wires through existing walls, don't pull just one. It's only slightly more work to pull two wires than to pull one. Doing the project a second time in a few years is twice as much work, though!

Think about everything you might want (IP networking, surveillance cameras, cable or satellite TV, telephone, speaker wires, home automation control signalling). Then add a bunch of extras. Cat-6 is a good choice, because it can carry most things you might want.

Consider a single conduit. During a major bathroom remodel & replumbing job, I had the plumber put conduit from the attic to the "wiring closet". He went a little nuts, putting two 4" conduits in - one for high voltage, one for low voltage. This makes it relatively easy to add a new service anywhere. Unfortunately, this was after I had finished running structured wiring.

Since a small part of your basement is unfinished, you might want to run conduit from there to your attic, and make that your "wiring closet". Then you can pull from each outlet to the attic, and easily run it down the conduit.

Star topology. Pull everything to a central location, and patch them together there. I used the space under the stairs.

How to pull up to an attic: In your attic, drill a large hole in the sill plate. It should be big enough to fit all the wires you want through it, but small enough to keep the strength of the sill plate. Avoid the wall studs below.

Cut a hole in the wall below, for the outlet.

Push a fish tape down from the attic. Have a helper watch the hole for the tape, and grab it with a bent coat hanger. They attach the wire bundle, and you pull it back up.

To push/pull from attic to basement, you can cut a hole on the floor in between, and do it in two steps. Or you can fish from both ends at the same time, using fish tapes that have hooks on the end. When they hook each other, pull the attic tape up to retrieve the basement tape. In the attic, tie on the wire bundle, then pull it down to the basement.

To pull between finished floors you need to cut a hole in the wall to drill a hole in the sill plate & fish between the floors.

See also my answer on how to pull wire to a basement or crawlspace: How do I run ethernet, speaker wire, and coax through a wall into a crawlspace?

The more holes you cut, the easier it is to pull wires, and the more fixup work you have to do.


Can I put plywood over Schluter radiant heat

As per a couple of suggestions, I did contact the manufacturer and got a prompt reply indicating that it would not be covered by warranty if installed that way. Thanks for the suggestion.


How to protect an outdoor electrical cable which can’t be buried?

Was this guy an actual licensed electrician?  Was there a permit pulled for this work?  Did the building inspector sign-off on the work?
Of these questions I suspect the answer is "no" to all of them!  Even if #1 is "yes" clearly he's incompetent and/or lazy.
Anyway, what you have is unacceptable and the wire should be protected from the elements and from damage.  Simply laying it on the ground, even with some type of warning tape is not going to change that.
The line needs to be buried but before doing that you need to determine if the wire used is rated for direct burial.  If should have a "UF" designation on it.  UF wire is more expensive than non-UF types and that's what concerns me regarding your "electrician".  He cut corners on the installation, he may have cut corners on the materials as well.
Also, this type of circuit (i.e. outdoor) needs to have a GFCI breaker installed.  Where did the hookup to existing power happen?  Did he run a new circuit from the panel or did he just splice into an existing circuit?
In my opinion a license professional electrician would NEVER do such shoddy and incomplete work.  Hopefully you didn't pay this clown yet.


HVAC vents - does wall or ceiling mount matter?

I think part of this depends on where you live, and whether this is primarily a cooling or a heating issue. I'll assume we are talking the high velocity vents, which are easy enough to move around. (A check of your profile says San Jose, so I also assume this is a cooling issue.)

Wall mounted vents used for cooling will push cool air across the ceiling, mixing with the warmer air up there. The cool air will now gradually settle down, because cool air is denser than warm air. What you won't feel so much is moving air.

Ceiling mounted vents, because they push the air DOWN, not horizontally, will arguably create more drafts in the volume that you actually inhabit. This is something my wife would not want. So if you do put them in the ceiling, place them where you will not feel the drafts.


Can I close my gable vents now that I have one solar fan?

If your solar fan is working, it's pulling air out of the attic. That air has to be getting into the attic from somewhere. If you seal off your gable end vents, where is the air coming in from?  Your soffit vents, if you have any. If you do, then fine, case closed, remove the gable vents, no problem. If you don't, then the air is probably coming from inside your house! If you air condition that air you are now air conditioning the attic too. That's one way to cool down the attic…

If you only have gable end vents, you have two options. The first is to seal them up and add soffit vents. The other is to replace them or fix them so that the louvers of the vent are much steeper and overlap each other more. See how easy the water can get in when it's blowing almost horizontally when the vent louvers are arranged like this:

Compare that to a vent with much steeper louvers that overlap more:


You have two valves you can access here:

The round knob on the bottom controls the flow of steam/water in/out of your radiator. This should typically remain fully open unless you are servicing the radiator.
The white, numbered knob attached to the air release valve is a thermostatic valve that allows you some control over how much heat this radiator receives. When the surrounding air temperature is below its set point, the valve opens. This allows hot steam rising through the pipe to enter your radiator, which then heats your room. When it's already warm enough around the radiator, the valve is closed and steam is blocked from entering your radiator.

Now let's look at the sources of noise and how they might be addressed. Unfortunately, these are not likely to be easy fixes.

Banging pipes when the heat comes on are caused by the thermal expansion of the pipes as they are rapidly heated from inside by steam, and later contraction as they cool. The banging usually is caused by the pipes rubbing against surrounding objects such as structural wood, pipe hangers, floor penetrations, etc. Use of proper supports and bushings that allow for expansion can help reduce this, but because the pipe itself conducts sounds it is important to do this along the full run of the pipe, not just in your apartment. It's possible you could make a small difference by widening the hole in the floor that your radiator pipes rises up through, as it looks like it might be in contact with the floor at the left, but it's hard to tell for sure.
Hissing from the air vent is unfortunately somewhat unavoidable in this type of system. However, blockage of the vent hole could increase the volume of noise (by forcing the vented air/steam through a tinier hole). You can clean the vent a bit with a cloth. If the air vent valve is blocked due to accumulated calcium deposits, you may have some success in quieting it down by removing it and soaking in vinegar as described here. (Remember to shut off the supply valve before you attempt that.) Your valve looks reasonably new, so I wouldn't expect this to make a huge difference -- either way your system depends on steam venting through that little valve.
The radiator itself clicking/knocking when the heat comes on is the same expansion issue as with pipes, just manifest with your particular radiator. You may be able to help this somewhat by repositioning the radiator somewhat, or perhaps sliding some cedar shims under its feet to allow it to move a bit without creating as much noise.

Assuming it's not possible to fix all the pipe supports/penetrations or replace the system, the likely most effective thing that is under your control is to simply not use your radiator. If you are not too cold, then you can turn your thermostatic valve to its coldest setting (probably marked 1). When your radiator is closed, it will not heat up significantly, and will not vent steam. This will eliminate the hissing noise and reduce clicking/knocking from the radiator itself. It will probably not make much difference in the banging pipes because the pipes are still being used to conduct steam to other nearby radiators.

Unfortunately, these noises are pretty common in steam-heated buildings. The advantages of steam heat are that it only requires one pipe to each radiator, and it provides some humidity for your space. But it's kind of inherently noisy, and newer steam systems are not as efficient as hot water hydronic heating. That's why you mainly see steam systems in older buildings where replacing the whole system is impractical. So... have you considered earplugs?


Is a plywood backer required for all breaker panels?

Plywood is usually used when mounting a panel to masonry walls for a few reasons.
Isolation
Masonry is not a great insulator, which can lead to problems especially where the wall is below grade.  The cabinet has to be bonded to the grounding electrode system. Because of this, if you mounted the cabinet directly to a below grade masonry wall, you could end up with a ground loop.
Moisture protection
Masonry walls are also not great at stopping moisture. If the cabinet was mounted directly to the wall, there's a possibility of moisture in or on the cabinet, which can lead to problems.
Insulation
Because masonry is not a great insulator, a ground-fault could cause the wall to be energized.
Ease of Installation
It's much easier to attach electrical devices, cables, and raceways to plywood than masonry.

As for the color of the plywood, I've never heard of a requirement to paint it black.


Can I paint plain particle board shelves?

If the shelves truly are unfinished, it will be fine to prime and then paint them. However, it is not common to have shelving with no surface protection at all (like varnish or veneer).

Put a few small drops of water on a back corner in an inconspicuous spot. If the water soaks right in, you are good to prime and paint. If the water beads up and sits there without soaking in... well then the wood is finished and should probably be well sanded (or stripped and sanded) prior to painting.


Is there any way I can reclaim this space and still safely support the front steps?

Couple possibilities I can think of (hard to tell without looking at a floor plan):

Floor was built over a larger area and then covered over.
Landing or base of the stairs was moved, possibly during early construction.
Floor or landing was intentionally extended to provide a shelf for storage.
Joists are continuing to a load bearing structure (wall of the house).

Without being physically there, or reviewing a building plan, it's difficult to say how you can move/remove this structure.


How can I tell if there is brick behind plaster on a fireplace?

Yes, you can cut a hole in the plaster and see if there is brick behind it.

Perhaps an easier way is if this is on an outside wall and the brick no the outside goes all the way up. If so, odds are that it goes all the way up on the inside, as this would likely have been a full masonry chimney when it was built (as opposed to modern fireplace inserts which typically just have a metal insulated flue rather than a full chimney).

Note that if your intention is to expose all that brick, you may be let down as often brick that was pre-determined to be covered is not the 'good' bricks and the mortar may not have been raked at all. Sometimes, they just plaster right on top of the brick as well, and that can be a long, tedious chore to remove (as plaster adheres wonderfully to brick).


Your drawing is showing a staggered pattern in the boards.  Is this your intent?  If so, you'll need something to screw down to at every butt joint.  I see one joist at the end but nothing else to hold it up.  Next, you won't find many mills who will "cut to length", so every 2x6 deck plank will be 6' or 8' long.  It's easier to put down the 8 footers, then snap a chalk line on your edge and trim them all down with a circular saw at one time - a good saw blade is required here.

While on the joists subject, I am NOT a small guy, and 6' between joists seems quite far apart for a 2x6, at least for my size (6'4" 326 lbs.)  Go to the lumber store, pull a 2x6 beam and a pair of 4x4s to lay it across, and measure how much it deflects when you stand on it, and then have someone else step on it momentarily.... (Again, I am not the guy to stand on a 2' cantilever edge of a deck, but that's up to you and code enforcement for your location.)

You may want to consider having your lumber run the other direction, and put some joist spans every 4 feet on center, reducing your cutoffs, and simplifying the process.  Draw in where you expect the tails of the boards to fall, and get an idea as to what the deck will look like when you're done.  If you don't need it to run away from the house, then I'd go with rotating boards by 90 and drop in joists at the appropriate lengths.

The general rule of spacing between boards is a screw/nail thickness - mostly because they're handy.  Boards shrink and swell with the weather, so they need a bit of gap in them, plus you don't want water sitting down in those gaps, or you'll have rot in no time.  I would use the "actual" wood dimensions and forgo the gap in the math (2x6 == 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" in reality) - it'll only be one to two boards difference at best for a deck this size, and it's not like you will not make a bad cut, find a warped board, etc.

Boards come in 6' and 8' and up.  The longer, the more expensive per foot, as it's harder to cut a 16' straight board than an 8' one.

Let's say you want to do north/south, in your drawing.
For your short section (using 8' beams cut down to 7'):
182" / 5.625" (I put in 1/8" for gap) = 32.33, aka 33 boards minimum.

Long section 168" / 5.625" = 29.86 or 30 boards, assuming you by 16' ones.
If you assume you will use a combo of 6' and 8', you'd need 30 of each.
and if you want to go all 8' and cut down, it'd be 60 boards.

Existing plan recap:
8' - qty 63 plus spares.
6' - qty 30 plus spares.

If you go east/west, you can stagger by 4 feet, adding some look to the deck, but you will have to add some joists, plus move your "main joists" out to the edges, or build trimmer boxes along the entire edge to hold up the tails.  It looks like you are after the simplest method, so to do this one, move the posts.

84" / 5.625" = 15 boards running the length of 350" (just under 30 feet.) If you use 4' on center joists, with 8' planks, you'd use 4 boards per run or 60 boards, for the short deck to run the whole length across.
96" / 5.625" = 17.06 = rounds up to 18 boards, by less than 3/8ths of an inch, so I'd just mask it by gapping just a teeny bit wider on the last few boards.  Put in the end board and lay the other 3 or 4 down without mounting, take a tape and calculate out the gaps needed. The 14' feet width is a bit awkward so you'll use both 6' and 8' (18 of each flavor) and you'll have to add at least one extra joist, on one side, to continue the stagger neatly.

East/West recap:
8' - qty 78 plus spares
6' - qty 18 plus spares
Additional span joists:
6' - qty 12
8' - qty 6

So, a lot more wood, but a lot more look too.


How to seal hole from bundle of ethernet cables running through wall/floor?

Conduit & Patch Panel

If you're patch panel is embedded in the wall, you might need some additional structural support around it. I would make 2 runs of 2" conduit down to your crawl out of the patch panel. The reason for using conduit rather than just plain wires is that it makes a more finished result and will be easier to add new wires/remove  wires in the future. It'll also be easier to seal it with fire resistant caulk. Once you get into your crawl, you can just put a bushing on the end to terminate the conduit and run your Ethernet freely. Ethernet is low voltage which allows you to run it how you see fit. However, my recommendation would be to use zip-tie tags to group the cables together by room and use the label to notate which room the cables lead to. You can keep the cables up off the ground with zip-ties with screw mounts. However, it's critical not to over tighten the zip ties as it can damage the cable.

Fire Block

Most places require that all holes between levels of a building be sealed with some fire block. There are several different methods for this, but probably the easiest with fire-resistant caulk. Basically, the job of the caulk is to seal off the cavity so that the fire in one area cannot use the small holes in the cavity to pull air from to fuel itself. When the caulk is heated up, it expands in the hole working to keep a consistent seal. Another purpose is to prevent the fire from spreading up the wire.


Is it frequent to use two Ethernet cables for one phone line?

Probably you have two or more phone jacks daisy-chained together.  One cable goes to wherever the phone line enters the house and the other runs to another phone jack somewhere else in the house.

This is a common practice. I did some pricing online, and it seems that Cat 5e is comparable in price to 4-conductor phone cable, so the builders may simply have used it because they had it to hand.


Your wiring diagram appears to be correct, assuming that only one switch controls each light.

All neutral wires (white) should be joined together. However, it is possible to have a poor connection when trying to twist four wires together for a wirenut. You might try one of the push-in connectors that grabs each wire separately.

Similarly, all hot leads can be connected. In the case of Insteon, the black wire is hot. The red is load and each of them needs to be seprately connected to the hot lead to the fixture it controls.

The following is the diagram Insteon provides

Double check your connections and consider different connectors.

Finally, check your bulbs to make sure they are compatible with Insteon, especially if you are using dimmer switches. Some bulbs do not dim or need special types of dimmers.


Can I hang two inch blinds with only one inch of available window sill overhang?

I have 2" blinds from Lowes, probably the same one. Our windows had enough over hang though.  If I recall, there are little metal rectangle boxes that get mounted / screwed into the top of the window, and then the the blinds slide into the little metal box to hold it in place.  These little metal brackets have numerous holes in them on both the side, and on the top.  I think there were four screw holes, one in each corner on the top, and two on the side.  If this is indeed the type of bracket your blinds come with, then you would most likely be able to get three screws in place (1 side and 2 in the top).  Then repeat that with the other side of the blind.

This should be more than sufficient to hold it in place.  I think it would look a little funny though, I would probably go with a 1.5" for looks.  But you could use a valance to cover it up and no one would even know.


Are all ceiling fan switches interchangeable?

Yes, this is fairly standard.  I wouldn't worry about the precise part number.

Your man at Home Depot should be able to help you find a replacement.

Any switch that will fit the hole will work.


How do I determine where lead paint was used?

They make lead testing kits for this purpose.

You should ensure that you understand the correct process and procedures for painting over lead paint and that you take the proper safety precautions.  The EPA has a website with lots of information on this.


I have a 120V / 20A baseboard stat that goes that low and would like to use it to over ride the T5 even if it is turned off. My concern is that if it is turned off or on and the second one over rides it will the voltage spike damage the T5? Any ideas on protecting the T5?

You don't say whether the T5 is controlling the electric baseboard heat or some other heat system.

If it's controlling some other heat system, there's no issue at all letting the baseboard thermostat switch separate baseboard heat on and off.  This is a pretty common setup.

If the T5 is controlling a relay / contactor that's switching the baseboard heat, I can't see any issue that could damage the T5, but I could see it simply not working.

If the baseboard thermostat is in series with the contacts controlled by the T5, both the T5 and the baseboard thermostat need to call for heat to turn on the baseboard.

It's unlikely that the baseboard thermostat is in parallel with the contacts controlled by the T5 - that would be a bit of work to wire - but if that's the case, it would work as you want and it wouldn't damage the T5, or the relay / contactor.

  I just wish the T5 would go down low enough.

This is the real solution - swap out the T5 with a thermostat that works the way you want it to.


Can I glue the float back onto linkage to my toilet fill valve?

That whole assembly is the toilet tank fill valve. The float assembly below rises as the tank fills and pushes up the tab that broke. That in turn pushes up the linkage rod and then the lever to turn the water off. I am not sure what made the tab on the float break but possibly the plastic just got super brittle after being exposed to chlorine in the water over a long period of time.

I do not think that a simple gluing of that tab is going to last. The types of plastic used for these do not lend well to being glued. And if you did get some glue to hold initially the exposure to water could make it fail.

Replace the whole toilet fill valve. They are not that expensive [mostly due to being made of all plastic parts  :-) ] at your big box home improvement store. The last one I purchased was between 10-12USD.


How many amps can this breakers box provide?

is this setup safe?

A fault in your garage lighting might start a fire in the 8A wiring before the 16A fuse blows. Don't replace your fluorescent tubes with a huge bank of film-studio incandescent lighting.

I see nothing else to suggest it is unsafe.

  How much amps can I pull from each power point

From any one power point, you can pull the maximum current  that point is rated for (e.g. on a UK ring circuit I can pull 13A from any single power point)

However the total load on the circuit is determined by the circuit breaker rating for the circuit. It is perfectly normal to have ten 13A power points on a 32A circuit. Obviously you can't boil ten kettles at once.

You might have radial circuits (I'm not sure what is normal in Oz) and different numbers - but the same principles apply.

  Does it means I'm pulling 160 Amps from a 80 Amps main switch?

No, it means that the design used in all household electrical installations assumes that you wont fit every light socket with the most powerful bulb you can buy, plug a full kettle into every power point and turn them all on while simultaneously having a power-shower, roasting a turkey, frying four pancakes, mowing the lawn, drilling and sawing 2x4s, running AC at full, with TV, DVD, Blu-Ray, VHS, HiFi, bedside radio, and all lights on full blast. It might seem like your suburban neighbours do this but they don't really.

  On the garage "panel" ...

I would try switching them to see what happens. Inspect them first, maybe the fuse wire used doesn't match the number on the outside.

  90 extra amps

You say your main panel has a main switch rated for 80 Amps. It sounds like you need a 200A supply.

I'd

Buy a power meter - the sort that clamps around your main power cable and tells you how many amps you are pulling. My electric co gave me one free.
Get whoever's installing the AC to specify total current that is needed at
any one time.
Contact your electricity supply company / utility to get supply to house uprated accordingly.
Hire an electrician to replace your existing main panel with a new main panel with capacity for another 8 circuits (if that is really what is needed).
Get an extra job to pay for the electricity bills.


Sanding and spackling?

You could probably make it look OK with spackling followed by sanding.

Better results could probably be had by using joint compound followed by sanding, using progressively larger drywall knives. This method (which is the same used for joints in new plaster-board/drywall application) will result in a wider repair band, feather sanded smooth, which should be less noticeable.

Either way you will be left with an area that has a different texture than the rest of the wall. Depending on your need for perfection this can be remedied to some degree by using a thick nap paint roller and painting the whole wall, or even texturing the whole wall. Visibility of texture differences can be affected by things (oblique lighting and glossy paint tend to make it more visible).


what do i use to attach an ikea table top to storage facilities. links attached

There's no single best method - it depends on your subjective opinion and your personal criteria for best (price, durability, aesthetic, ease of cleaning, ...)

Pipe clips


Coating a Perforated Hard board for use as Pegboard above a desk?

Pretty much any paint that's suitable for wood will work fine, though it will absorb a bit more readily. You'll get some raised grain with the first coat, so plan on hitting it with a sanding sponge or similar after, then let it dry well before you recoat to prevent excessive swelling. A sanding sealer might be a good idea to start if you don't mind buying multiple products.

Overlaying adhesive sheet isn't a great idea. It won't bond well and you'd have to punch out all the holes. They do make a white melamine-coated pegboard, though it sounds like it might not be available to you.


Can I get 240 volts to a hard-wired baseboard heater by plugging into a nearby outlet?

You can run a 240V heater on 120V if you really want to, but it'll be weak tea, operating at 1/4 of power.

You could attempt what you hope, but it will require completely redoing the circuit wiring, to have 2 hots and a neutral in the same cable, at least up to the point where a 120V-only subcircuit branches off. All the conductors must be in the same cable. You cannot grab one hot from this cable and another hot from another cable.

Also, the fixed loads on each half of the circuit must account for less than 50% of circuit capacity.  Otherwise you can't have any receptacles on it at all.  This is per pole, so if you have a 6 amp heater on both poles obviously, and a 5A sump pump on one pole, that pole can't have any receptacles.

You must use a 2-pole breaker with 240V between the poles, otherwise you create a serious overload hazard (and also the heater won't work). An example of a bad breaker to use is a double-stuff that fits in one space.

Doing this type of wiring correctly is hard, and easy to get wrong.  It's harder than using punctuation, for instance.


A properly running brushed motor should have a chocolate brown appearance this is a oxide that forms from moisture and brush wear. I do extensive work on brush based motors there is always arcing but it should be uniform and not very large. If the saw was in a damp location the windings may be saturated causing the higher than normal arcing. Using an ohm meter on the power plug with the trigger pulled you should see a low value of resistance, rotate the blade a little at a time you should have a similar resistance value through a full 360 reveloition of the commuminator. If you don't have any dead spots and the saw was in a damp location you may be able to bake it out in a oven at approx 150 deg F. I have to do this to motors that have been sitting on the shelf in an unheated warehouse when they are an open drip frame style.
If you have a electrician friend ask to meg the motor, this is a high voltage ohm meter that checks for leakage in the windings to the frame while turning to the different field windings with the trigger pulled these values should be at least 10meg at 250 v higher is better.
Checking the continuity blade to blade on the plug with the trigger pulled is usually less than 10 ohms and on some motors less than 1 ohm. If no continuity verify there is nothing stuck under the brushes and they are making contact, I have never seen a brush base motor With more than a couple fried coils if no continuity through 360 degrees rotation of the com a brush contact wire may have burned off or the wire at the switch since you said there was voltage at the switch.


Does it make sense to add an upstairs dormer in two phases?

The two phase may cost you more, unless you are doing some portions yourself.
The reason is time.  The general contractors major contribution is scheduling. He gets his best prices from subs by giving them consistent work of known quantities.

A two phase plan is really 2 unique jobs, from the general contractors' perspective.

What you are proposing is not unique.  Interview the GCs and be upfront about the need to budget.  Ask if there is a discount for a complete job vs 2 phases.

Having a larger "attic" has energy pluses, especially if you can insulate and add HVAC in the 1st phase.  You see major benefits when doing interior finishes in later phases (especially drywall) if the interior humidity has stabilized.
This means the framing will have finished moving BEFORE you add onto it.


What caused my toilet's flapper valve to become spongy and disintegrate (see pictures)?

Flapper valves in my bathrooms typically last about 2 1/2 years of so. Depending upon the type of material they either get mushy like the ones that you show or they start to get hard and no longer make a good seal. Since I do not add anything to the toilet water tank like a disinfectant or fragrant additive I have to attribute the degradation of the flappers to the water chemistry and the chlorine that the city adds to the water.

Flapper valves are relatively inexpensive and the type you show in your pictures only take a few minutes to replace.


Can I add thin brick veneer directly to interior plaster

The keys are the "key". When real plaster is applied over wood lath, the base coat oozes through the gaps in the lath and sags or expands a bit forming "keys" that, when dry, hold the plaster layer to the lath.

This is a strong structure unless a substantial amount of the keys have been broken (from temperature or humidity swings, structural shifting, physical damage). When this happens in a specific area, that section of plaster is basically unsupported and is prone to cracking and buckling inward.

If the plaster is generally sound, you should have no problem. While drywall is more flexible and less prone to pulling away from the framing, sound plaster should be strong enough to hold the weight of a thin veneer.

If, however, significant sections of the plaster are bulging outward, or if there is a large amount of the surface coat pulling away from the base coat (a sign that the plaster is in poor condition overall), this is not a good basis for a top coat beyond paint or paper. In that case, you may need a more significant redo.

If the weak areas are just a few and not too large, there are specialized plaster washers that are used to screw the weakened section to the lath to prevent further damage. That may be sufficient if the areas are few and far between.


Is it okay to apply silicone sealant on damaged silicone?

What a crappy contractor, I have never heard of a contractor doing installs that did not correctly seal. I would contact the better business bureau, and the contractors licensing board and lodge complaints. With both you will need copies of the contract and better photos also any copies of corespondance after reporting the leak.


Extend sidewall hot water tank vent outside?

I do not know of any code that would be breaking. Check with the installation instructions for the water heater to make sure that you do not exceed the maximum length for the discharge piping.


How can I check for possible damage after water leaking into loft chimney?

The best way I've found to check for damage isn't the way you want to hear: pull everything out, open it all up, and expose any areas that could have been damaged.  Faced with that, most of us ignore the problem until there is a visible sign (rotting wood or water damaged drywall).  But that's not to say this is the right choice, since mold and mildew will spread and make the problem worse.

If the problem is behind a few sheets of drywall, the best option may be to simply pull them down and replace them with a mold and mildew proof board.  Do a thorough inspection for damage while the drywall is out.

The probe sounds like a wood moister tester.  A high reading is bad, but a low reading doesn't mean you're ok (the water could have gone somewhere else).  If you can't access the affected area from the attic or crawl space, then you may want to see if you can rent a borescope, drill some holes near where you think the water could have gotten in, and see what you can find.


I was quite skeptical about the paint and primer combo's, but Valspar gave me a couple of gals to try out.  I was surprised how well it covered over dark colors.  The down side was that it is not as smooth as regular premium grade paints. It seemed a bit dry going on, but that is because it is very high in clay content.  I decided the best combo was to use it for the first coat and then use regular paint treated with Flowtrol for my finish coat.  The application that I would never use it on is covering new drywall. I still prefer quick drying PVA drywall sealer. The paint/primer combo is too heavy and stays wet too long for new drywall, and is about twice the price of PVA primer.


Replacing hardwired dishwasher with existing wire

The green wire is the same as the bare copper.
The green or bare copper is the equipment grounding conductor and it should be tied to the frame.
Connect the green wire to the bare copper in the box should be connected to the frame by a green grounding screw.  Tried to phrase it both ways but green or bare from the supply to the machine doesn't matter the connection to the system ground and to the frame is the important part.


Can I run a sub-panel with only 3 conductors?

Plan A is NO.  An open neutral will put 120V on every grounded surface (i.e. light switch cover screws).

Plan B is NO.  A ground fault will put 120V on every grounded surface.

Also, plan B will fail to trip breakers in the event of a high current ground fault.  It is a terrible plan.

If you want to do it with 3 wires, you have two options, one bad.

Install 120V-only service.

Your 3 wires are L1 Hot, Neutral and Ground.

Install 240V-only service.

Your 3 wires are L1 Hot, L2 Hot and Ground.   Use exclusively 240V loads (easier than it sounds) and install NEMA 6 outlets exclusively.   It is not legal to do this in residential space or other domicile (hotel rooms etc.)

The problem with this strategy is keeping it pure. Some yutz will want to install a 120V load later, and he'll bootleg neutral which will render it unsafe the same as Plan A.

Transformer

This only requires 2 wires, but it requires a transformer.  In this case you make the outbuilding its own main panel, with its own local grounding system.   It is electrically isolated from the supply by the transformer, so neutral is locally derived and you don't (and shouldn't) connect it to the main building's neutral/ground in any way.

Costwise, there's a "tipping point" depending on distance, whether the cost of wire justifies the transformer.  For very long runs, there's another tipping point where "step-up" transformers make sense.   This is why Tesla won the war of the currents.


Are there 2 ways to wire a ceiling light?

Assuming you are speaking of the neutral (grounded) conductor, until relatively recently it was not common for it to be routed through a switch box.

Switches (and timed switches) control associated loads by connecting/disconnecting the hot wire, so running the neutral wire through a switch box was unnecessary. Modern switches including digital timers often require a neutral, making it difficult to use those in older buildings.


This is probably the circuit for the fridge outlet

The label says "REFERDIGE"(sic) -- whoever wrote it left their spelling at home that day, but their heart was in the correct place.  The use of a dedicated branch circuit for the fridge outlet (vs. plugging it into a receptacle on a kitchen small appliance branch circuit) falls under the (recently expanded) NEC 210.52(B)(1) Exception 2:

  Exception No. 2: In addition to the required receptacles specified by
  210.52, a receptacle outlet to serve a specific appliance shall be permit‐
  ted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes
  or greater.


Why is my third floor hot water pressure so low?

If the cold water pressure is good, then you are right about the shower head not being the problem.

Check the hot water shut off valve feeding the tub to assure it is opened fully.

Also if you have good hot water pressure at the vanity and are sure shut off valve is fully open, the problem may be in the mixing valve that feeds the shower head. It's not uncommon for deposits to form over a number of years in this valve and restrict flow, especially on the hot side. Could also be a broken or stuck washer in the mixer.  You can shut off the water to the valve, hot and cold, remove and inspect the cartridge from the front. Remove the handle(s), the bezel trim and the valve cartridge should come out with a wrench. If any of the internal parts look suspect, take it to your hardware store and they can help you select new soft parts to rebuild it. Replace it in opposite order that you disassembled it,  and don't forget to put some plumbers putty under the top and sides (not very bottom) of the bezel, so water won't leak in behind it and down your wall.

Good luck.


Sealing foundation blocks and gap between drywall

For the exact reason you touched upon you don't want to bring those two components together. The drywall will leach water from the concrete, breaking it down and creating stains.

Instead, finish each separately with appropriate paint and use a plastic T-molding or other transition to cover the seam. I'd consider using the epoxy that I see on your slab to do the block.


If you don't want to chip out the floor & there's a trap beneath so everything's good that way. Then, you can try an Offset Shower Drain. If that doesn't do it then I think your only option would be to use a black rubber flexible (hub-less) coupling.


How do I refill a fire extinguisher or should I just buy a new one?

I used to be a fire extinguisher repair tech.  This unit should not be refilled even though it is possible with the right equipment.  The plastic/nylon heads will develop cracks and leaks over time.  Buy a new unit with a metal head.  Those can be refilled and will last you a long time. Amerex, Badger, General, Ansul are all decent brands.


It's a bit wider than a typical US 2x4, but likely equivalent.  A 2x4 that you get for building is 3.5"x1.5" so that would equate to 89x38mm.


Should I use caulk or wood putty and paint to fill nail holes on trim?

The key criteria for me is the size of the holes.  If you used brads, then I have no problem with using caulk, especially on baseboards.  The only possible downside is if you leave a fingerprint in it.  You have to have eagle eyes to pick out a small hole like that.

With crown molding though, I'd plan on a lightweight spackle.  Mostly because of the cost and effort you already put in installing it, might as well finish it nicely.  Vinyl spackle works great, but again if the holes are small, just about anything made by DAP works fine.  If you find yourself with a large hole, bondo (auto filler) does amazing things.  Or you can use painter's putty, glazing, just about anything can be made to look really good.  Sand and touch-up as needed.


It depends on what loads the stud carry and the spacing. by code you can notch out 25% of a structural member or drill a hole in the center 40% for a bearing wall and 60% for non load bearing. But to be safe you can add  a plywood plate to the edge of the studs and put in about 15 wood screws. This will help carry bending and compression loads.

Inspector Jeff

ICC/FL/SC licensed combination building inspector and building designer


What is this amber substance on the wood in my attic?

"it's sap crystals that have been extruded from the wood due to high attic temperatures. We see more of this sap staining when the wood used for framing was not kiln dried before construction." Inspectapedia

Sap in painted wood will cause staining but it is ok in the attic.


Installing a "key cylinder" to open and close the garage door

Assuming your opener has the terminals for doing so, to hardwire this you would want either a double-momentary keyswitch, or a housing that takes a lock cylinder and uses its tailpiece to actuate a pair of momentary switches, plus appropriate mounting hardware and wires. The latter gives you more flexibility in picking a cylinder that matches, e.g., your house keys.

I agree that if the battery is good, and is appropriate for that weather, and there isn't an unreasonable amount of radio frequency interference (RFI) with the signal, a decent quality numeric pad should work. You may want to spend more time checking why it doesn't before investing in the wired switch.


How to fix capillary action on anti-condensation coating on box profile steel roofing sheets?

PREPARATION & FITTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR ANTI-CONDENSATION ROOFING SHEETS
INSTALLATION
Note! This product is designed for use on roofs with a pitch of 10 degrees or greater.

And that's pretty typical of all steel roofs, and yours is the reason why.
The only way you can make a steel roof work on installations like this is if one piece of metal can span the entire roof.  Not half to a peak. (because you can't make the peak seam work either, same reason).  You can't have seams.
The simple fact is, you have a flat roof.  1-3 degrees is pretty much the minimum slope required to keep a flat roof from becoming a swimming pool, and is required by most roofing systems.  You need to use products appropriate to flat roofs, such as EPDM rubber.


Oxalic acid will remove the stain. Here is a link to the product. It is for showing you the container. It has very easy to use instructions on the container


You need to have a graspable (grippable) handrail... in other words something that you can get your hand around and hold onto if you fall off the steps.  The 2x6 is too big for your hand to grab around and does not qualify.

Standard handrail brackets usually look something like this:

Also see this article (Deck Stair Handrails) for a picture of a handrail that is a one-piece design:


Deeply notched deck post also supporting a roof

I don't know if this is to code or not. But what appears to be happening is something like - view from looking down on the top:

Original post:

XXXX
XXXX
XXXX
XXXX

Notched as follows:

----
----
||XX
||XX

Where one beam - currently in place - goes across at the || section and another in the other (perpendicular) direction goes across at the -- section.

The results is nominally the same as using an ordinary post to support those two beams and then adding another post on top to support the roof.

If everything is actually tied together properly (i.e., bolted together + metal brackets - not just a few nails or small screws) then this may actually be stronger than two separate posts would be. Instead of looking at it as "3/4 notched post" instead look at it as ONE post instead of two.

There are numerous instances - the Hyatt walkway collapse is an extreme case that comes to mind - where structures can, to the non-engineer, appear to be just as strong with 2 pieces as with 1 but in reality one piece is actually much stronger. In your situation, a single, though notched, post should not affect the support of the deck but should increase stability of the roof.

All that being said, my theory could be totally wrong. I recommend asking your builder and, if they can't provide a satisfactory answer (e.g., plans showing approval by a structural engineer) then speaking to your local building inspector may be a good idea.


Your roofers are correct in adding plywood or osb board I order to maintain the roofing warranty. If there is a “blow off” the manufacturer will not honor the warranty if the nails are not installed correctly, including the minimum required thickness of the roof sheathing, which is 1/2”. (1x6 boards is not acceptable because of the number of gaps between boards means the nails could miss the lumber and be installed in the gaps, and thus no withdrawal holding power.)

We design for the exceptional not the standard. So, your occasional 24” deep snow will translate to 30 - 35 lbs. per square foot Live Load plus about 15 lbs. per square foot Dead Load (roof sheathing, roofing, etc.).

Your 2x4 roof joists (even the older larger ones like you have) will only span about 9’, depending on the species and grade. However, the occasional diagonal 2x4 brace will help, but your roof joists are over stressed.

I’d also be alarmed about the connection at the ridge. High winds could “suck” the joists off the roof with just nailing. I’d use Simpson joist clips to hold the roof together.


Prevent air leaking from couplings on an air compressor hose

You are correct that it is a good idea to use teflon tape on the threaded fittings, however no sealant is required or advised on the quick-connect part itself. These are designed to seal using internal o-rings.

There are multiple types of quick-connect air line fittings that at first glance appear similar, but are not necessarily compatible. It is very likely that you have connected two incompatible types, resulting in a leak. This is very common.

The two "main" types are often referred to as "automotive" and "industrial", though each can have sub-types that are typically letter designations, e.g. Industrial can be M, H or G. There's also a type called ARO, and one called Lincoln, but these are somewhat less common (at least in the US consumer market).

(image from Legacy Manufacturing)

The documentation for your air compressor may specify exactly which type of fitting you have. Otherwise head to the local big box store with your male coupling that leaks, and look for a similar-while-slightly-different male coupler to try.

Legacy manufacturing has published a very informative guide on the evolution of the various types of quick-connect fittings that lists the common types in use, with some images of each.

Milton Industries has also published a document that may help identify the type of plug you have, though their letter designations may not exactly match those of other manufacturers.


Is there any danger in pulling a washing machine forward?

A washing machine should have

One detachable flexible cold water feed of indeterminate length.
One detachable flexible hot water feed of indeterminate length.
One possibly detachable flexible drain line of indeterminate length.
One permanently attached electrical cord of indeterminate length.

So the problem you have now is figuring out how long each of these are,and how to disconnect them. It sounds like you don't have much access to the back of the machine to get a good look, so a mirror attached to a telescoping handle might come in handy here.

Once you get a better idea of what's behind the machine, you'll have a better understanding of how to move it.


How do you install blocking in a straight line?

Toe nailing is usually the easiest (provided you're using an nail gun).

If you want to get fancy, you could end-nail every other one, then use L-brackets for the ones in between (nail the bracket to the blocking so that and then nail the bracket into the studs):

                     |  |
                    +|  |
                    ||  |
                    ||  |
               +----+|  |
    +---------------+|  |
    |               ||  |
    +---------------+|  |
                     |  |
                     |  |


perimeter wiring LED lights thru pipe fence

Depending entirely on what the LED you insert is, the BEST way to do long runs of LEDs is to put them in series and run the required DC current through the system at whatever voltage that requires (the LED supply will be controlling the current closely in that case, the voltage will be what's needed to run the current.) But that requires that you use LEDs that are "bare" in the sense of having no attached/built in power supply.

If you are using 120/240VAC LEDS (which are low-voltage DC LEDs attached to a power supply which uses 120/240VAC and does the conversion locally) then you will perforce be wiring in parallel at 120/240V.

16 9 watt LEDS, assume pessimistically that they are quoting LED power use and ignoring losses in the power supply, say 80% to be pessimistic about power supply efficiency, comes to about 180 watts, should run 5.5 hours on a kilo-Watt-hour (for your pricing) and draw 0.75A on 240V or 1.5A on 120V. At 12 hours per night (average across the year) and 15 cents a kilowatt hour, about $120/year.

Assuming that your wire is rated for use in conduit/wet locations, likely won't be a problem, though it will obviously be better on 240V (less current for the same power, so less voltage drop.) If you have 12/2 UF wire that will be true, if you have 12/2 NM wire it is absolutely not true, and a code violation. I'm not going to bother sorting out the actual voltage drop from distributed lights (which will be less), but treated as a lump load at the end of the wire, 0.75A at 240V on 1000 feet of 12Ga results in 3% drop, so you would be fine. If dividing into two 8 light circuits, you'll be fine on either voltage.

How much you'll annoy your neighbors (especially if any of them like to look at the stars) is a whole other question.


Honeywell RTH6500 WiFi Thermostat wiring questions for a heat pump

It looks like y1 on old one is Rc on the new one,unsure of this so satisfy yourself before trying connection based on this observation.Also have you noticed the link between R and Rc,I would question this.Try asking manufacturer of after market part for advice.STeve uk Engineer.The instuctions are poor and the terminal markings maybe wrong.with thermostat.com are mentioned for help.Sorry I   do not understand the istructions.I will sleep on it. Had another look,Must say may not be compatible. Honeywell surprise me,Action to take,do not know.I have not given up,but hold little hope for success.I am now checking my suggested connections before posting them.good question,too many combinations.Einstein had it easier. Respect STeve uk.L?Wire missing. Steve has been called many things,genius is not one of them.Steve uk.You are missing,Internal diagrams for the controller,and external diagrams for equipment to be connected to it,also cable overal diagrams. All factors to carry out  this project. I have touched on subjects relating to  this before and now have little to add.pn,System may have lv electronic control as well,consider this.Do not mix wiring.All parts of the system may need to be wifi compatible to use wifi controller.


How are Clopay Intellicore garage door R-values so high?

Note the fine print in the chart: "Calculated door R-Value is in accordance with DSAMA TDS-163".  Here is DSAMA TDS-163.

From the PDF:

  Refer to Figure 1. A typical insulated door has an exterior surface, interior surface, and an insulating core
  material. Also present is the insulating effect of air on a vertical surface, termed “air film”. Each of these
  elements has a unique R-value that added together create the door section R-Value.
  Rsection = Rair films + Routside surface + Rinsulation +Rinside surface

So the 20.4 value includes not only the 2" of foam, but the R values from the outside surface, inside surface, and some air films that are assumed not to be moving.  I expect you're correct that the foam alone would provide a value more in line with the typical 6-7 R/inch you're used to.


Can a bathroom fan be mounted on one of the interior walls instead of the ceiling?

You can install a wall mount fan in a bathroom and meet code in all places I have done work.  I have used them a few times (going straight out an exterior wall).  In cold regions I would never go straight out because of the backdraft but since you are on an interior wall its not a big issue.

Now if your city needs to pass this I would call your inspector and make sure what they want out of this.  Every inspector I have had wants these within a foot of the ceiling - so if you aren't needing to pass inspection use that guideline.  I am not sure where that is written in any building code (please add it if anyone can find it) but I have gotten that answer in a few places.  Here is an example of a fan you can use.

Note that using a wall mount isn't as efficient as a ceiling mount for the obvious reasons, the warm moist air can rise above your wall mount opening.  But if it is impossible or very hard to go ceiling mount they work.


Is it a good idea to pass a oven range hood exit duct in the roofs' ventilator?

Seems like a bad idea. If it is sealed so that only air from the range hood goes through it you have eliminated an attic vent.
If it is just kinda pointed at the attic vent you will be introducing moist greasy air into the attic space.
Also the chance of a kitchen fire getting into the attic greatly increases with any option other than a termination cap designed for and exclusively used for range hood.
Use a smooth hard metal duct to connect the hood to the termination cap.


How can I waterproof walls that are not shower or basement walls?

Remember that concrete is porous so even if you have a floor drain some of the moisture will seep into the concrete. Seal the floor with a penetrating sealer or an epoxy floor paint. Maybe even an elastomeric membrane you paint on before applying tile on concrete slab floors. RedGuard is one type of product.

Your best solution would be to build the entire room like a shower like you mentioned. Moisture barrier on walls that extends a few inches on the floor and is sealed to it. Cement board or hardibacker covered in tiles. If you look around you can find cheap tiles. There are tiles stores around me in industrial areas that advertise $1/sq ft tiles. Home Depot has a 4x4" tile going for $0.16 each.

If the tiles are too much money...

If appearance isn't a concern maybe you can just paint over cementboard walls with the elastometric membrane?

Also Quikrete has a waterproof cement product called QuickWall Surface Bonding Cement. It's main purpose was to parge over dry stacked concrete block walls but it's also used for cisterns. You spread it on with a trowel like stucco 1/8" thick. At 50 sq ft per bag it comes out to about $0.32/sqft.

I've used it and it really is waterproof. I painted over it with DryLock waterproof paint for a nicer finish. I spoke with Quikrete and they said the DryLock wasn't necessary but already had it and I wanted a smoother surface on the wall. You could probably just use a regular, mildew resistant, glossy paint instead. Call Quikrete and see what they have to say because it's been a while since I used it. You'll want to let it cure a bit before

I mixed it up I think 1/2 bag at a time in a 5 gallon bucket with their acrylic fortifier using a drill and paddle mixer. Spread it on using a cement trowel.


The crossbar and the cut yellow wire suggest that a lamp was previously installed there.

It is OK to install a lamp yourself but to comply with code you must call a licensed electrician to inspect your work. I can see from the picture that the ground (green bundle) is being used as a neutral connection (white wires) and the end of the yellow wire is just floating, so even if you do nothing you will need an electrician to make it safe.


Do you know what the part pointed to by the red arrow is for?

I am not familiar with this unit but the indicated item seems like it could be a catch to allow the control panel unit to be removed from the wall mount.

It is also possible that this could be a manual override switch although this seems more unlikely from looking at the pictures.


Start out by soaking the hoses in hot water and blue Dawn dish soap. It's the best for dissolving grease and I'm not affiliated with them in any way. Then you'll want to thread a heavy string or rope through the hose and wrap one end around a big rag and pull the other end so the rag gets pulled through the hose. You'll have to do this a few times to get rid of all the residue. If your rope is long enough, tie the rag in the middle of the rope and you can just pull it back and forth without re threading it through the hole each time. Replace the rag if it gets too oily.


1 outlet / 2 switches: want to replace old outlet with GFCI

Both the black wires currently on the receptacle, need to be connected together with a pigtail. The pigtail will then connect to the brass colored LINE terminal on the new GFCI.

The white wire from the old receptacle, will attach to the silver colored LINE terminal of the new GFCI.

The grounding conductors should also be pigtailed, and a pigtail terminated at each devices grounding terminal.

The wiring seems a bit strange in that box, but I'll have to think about it a bit more before I decide if it's dangerous.

In the meantime, you should use a black marker or tape, to mark both ends of the white wire that's attached to the switch.


How can I prevent my HVAC condensate drain line from freezing?

Any or all of your ideas will help, it largely depends on your climate and how long of a below freezing stretch you can expect. The drain outlet is supposed to be within some distance of the ground, 18" I believe, which is why it was configured that way. In areas subject to freezing, all piping carrying water should be run as far as practical inside the heated envelope, so the drop to within some distance of ground should have been done inside. If possible, rerouting the run inside, with only a very short run outside should solve the problem.

As BMitch suggests, routing the drain through trap would comply with plumbing codes and is the best solution.

Shortening the pipe could fix the problem entirely since the water may not have time to freeze. In frigid climates though, any water outside will freeze. The high outlet could damage you outside wall finish and be an annoyance to passers by.

Widening the pipe will require more build up before blockage, so if the freeze periods are not too long, this could work. In frigid climates, it will still block up eventually.

Insulating the pipe would probably be all that's needed, it has the same effect as shortening the pipe, without wall damage. Actively heating the pipe would certainly work, but is probably only needed in extreme cases. Heat tape that wraps around the pipe and is plugged in to an outlet, with a thermostat to turn off the current above freezing is a common hardware store item in cold climates.

You only have to worry about the attic if it gets below freezing in there. Attics, though ventilated with outside air, tend to stay a fair bit warmer than the outside. I would guess that unless you have good runs of outside temperatures consistently below 0F(-18C), you shouldn't have a freezing problem in your attic.

I'm not sure, but I suspect there is not an override. A blocked drain can cause significant problems if the furnace continues to run. By shutting off the heat, it is good incentive for the owner to solve the problem.


I need "silver" colored wire to run through chain for hanging lamp to connect to ground where it mounts to ceiling

You could get tinned (thus, silver-colored) bare copper wire of the proper gauge from an electronics supply house. This is commonly available.
Evidently there is also nickel-plated copper wire available, but it's far less common.
I think you could also use twice as much of the "lamp wire" in the color you like, using the extra "lamp wire" as a grounding wire, but there might be some subtle reason that would not be OK I haven't thought of.


How many receptacles can I place on a 20 ampere 120 volt breaker?

There's no limit to the number of receptacles that can be on a circuit in a residential dwelling.  Code does specify a minimum number of receptacles required in a room (NEC 210.52(A)), based on the length of the walls. The code does not, however, limit the number of receptacles per circuit.

In industrial/commercial spaces, 180 Volt-Amperes (VA) is used when calculating receptacle loads.  This value is often used as a guideline in residential applications as well.  For example, given a 15 ampere 120 volt circuit, you could have 10 receptacles @ 180 VA.

15 A * 120 V = 1800 VA
1800 VA / 180 VA = 10

So a 20 ampere 120 volt circuit, could have 13 receptacles @ 180 VA.

20 A * 120 V = 2400 VA
2400 VA / 180 VA = 13.333

These numbers are simply a guideline, and have no real meaning in residential dwelling units.

You will have to keep the bathroom and bedroom circuits separate, and the bathroom receptacles will have to be supplied by at least one 20 ampere branch circuit (NEC 210.11(C)(3)). So you'll need at least two, 20 ampere branch circuits. One for the bathroom receptacles, and one for the bedroom receptacles.