Can I modify 3 ampere table lamps to work on 5 ampere round pin plugs?

3A lamp on 5A outlet

You should be OK to use a 3A appliance on a 5A circuit. The circuit is capable of supplying up to 5A but it is the individual appliance (lamp in this case) that determines how much current is drawn.

Round-pin plugs vs rectangular-pin plugs

Modern usage

I'm surprised a new home would have BS 546 round-pin plugs instead of the more usual BS 1363 rectangular-pin plugs.

Wikipedia says

  Although BS 546 plugs and sockets are still permitted in the U.K. and are used for special purposes, new installations since 1947 generally have used BS 1363 sockets and fused plugs.

Until now, I thought the only place where round-pin plugs were used was in theatrical stages, where I think they are used to prevent people plugging inappropriate devices into theatrical lighting circuits.

Safety

If the BS 546 plugs don't have built-in fuses, they don't provide any protection to the line-cord between the plug and the lamp.

BS 1363 plugs have additional safety features which may not be present in BS 546 plugs

fuse to prevent overload of appliance cord (& hence fire.)
shutter in socket opened by earth pin (safer sockets).
insulating sleeves around base of live and neutral pins.
high insertion force to reduce risk of partial removal.
designed so earth wire is last to break under cord strain.

For example a small child can poke their hands (or part of a metal toy) behind a loose BS 546 plug and be in contact with 230 V.


Your hunch is correct - the anchor bolt in the picture obviously isn't doing a whole lot. If the scabbed on 2x4 bothers you, just remove it, cut the existing anchor bolt off flush with the concrete, and put in a new anchor through the center of the base plate.


Can I hang a key hanger without attaching it to a stud?

Key racks tend to be fairly light, so you shouldn't have any problems using only drywall anchors.


What are some reasons that my 240V clothes dryer connection (outlet) suddently only has 18V per side?

History of that dangerous socket
When they started grounding things in the 1960s, the appliance industry asked for a "pass" on dryers and ranges connecting via NEMA 10 receps (hot-hot-neutral).  They were afraid a compulsory conversion to the modern NEMA 14 series (hot-hot-neutral-ground) would result in customer confusion and lost appliance sales.    So they haggled with the NFPA, saying "let us 'ground' the appliance chassis to the neutral wire. Yes, that will electrify the chassis in the event of a neutral wire failure, but those are rare, because that wiring is rarely disturbed". NFPA accepted that, provided the appliance makers start designing ranges and dryers to be able to connect to both NEMA 10 and NEMA 14.
Code historically required NEMA 10 dryer and range circuits either use /3 cable (which has a white insulated neutral) or SE cable (which has a bare meshed neutral wrapped around the other conductors).  /3 cable started being made with a ground wire, which was awesome, because even though many sockets were going in as NEMA 10, ground was present in the box and the homeowner could convert to NEMA 14 at leisure. However, some installers illegally used /2 cable, abusing the ground wire as neutral.  This bad work is not grandfathered because it was illegal at time of installation, and must be removed on sight.
In 1990-ish, NFPA finally outlawed NEMA 10, requiring NEMA 14 going forward.  By this time the appliance industry had gotten appliances "ready" for both styles of connections, either properly grounding, or doing the "sanctioned bootleg" as described in the installation instructions.
The problem
The symptom you describe is very typical of a neutral wire (that wire is neutral) that has been disconnected at both ends.  The dryer is unplugged, and either at the socket or the panel, the wire is loose and has "opened", possibly with some arcing and sparking first. Since it was heard locally at the dryer, it may be in the socket.  Ideally you should read 0 volts to that wire, however due to "capacitive coupling" you read a little bit of voltage.  And that phantom voltage sort of "follows the meter around", which is why you get 16V from hot L1 and 16V from hot L2 (which should be impossible, right?)
Very high impedance DVMs (read: most cheap meters) are particularly prone to picking up "phantom voltage". There is voltage there, but possible current is so tiny that it's incapable of even moving the meter movement on an analog meter.
That lines up with the fact that you had the panel changed.  A problem at the panel would make sense.
While you're in here, deal with that socket
Modern society isn't safe by accident. A lot of work was done to make society safer.  But that's only true if things have been modernized! NEMA 10 has not.
So, there are several paths to getting rid of the NEMA 10 socket and convert to NEMA 14.

If the wire is illegal (solid bare neutral), replace the entire cable run.

See if there's already a ground wire or metal conduit.  Often that is lurking unused behind the NEMA 10.

Retrofit a ground wire.  That ground wire needs to be #10 and needn't go back to the panel; it can go to any other junction box that has a #10 back to the panel (air conditioner; water heater), or to any box with metal conduit back to the panel, or to any part of the Grounding Electrode System (the bare copper wires going from panel to water pipe or ground rods).

Just don't hook up ground.  Mark the cover plate GFCI Protected. No Equipment Ground.  Then, fit a GFCI breaker in the panel.


It depends on what you plan on storing there.

I have lots of closets that have no air movement and they are just fine.

I wouldn't worry about it.


One of the SPT conductors will have ribs running along it's length, that is the neutral and will connect to the white.


Yes.  NM cable may be exposed in attic.

This is very common in modern dwellings.  Armored cable / MC is not necessary in your case.


Can I screw a ceiling fan electrical box directly to the joist?

Check the markings on different electrical boxes. According to the National Electrical Code (NEC) (which is not applicable in all areas, so check local codes), boxes that support ceiling fans should be listed for the purpose.

National Electrical Code 2008
ARTICLE 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures
314.27 Outlet Boxes.
(D) Boxes at Ceiling-Suspended (Paddle) Fan Outlets. Outlet boxes or outlet box systems used as the sole support of a ceiling-suspended (paddle) fan shall be listed, shall be marked by their manufacturer as suitable for this purpose, and shall not support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 32 kg (70 lb). For outlet boxes or outlet box systems designed to support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 16 kg (35 lb), the required marking shall include the maximum weight to be supported.

A box like this 4 in. Octagon Box, is rated to hold 50lbs, however, that's only when it's properly installed.  Since it sounds like you don't have much room to work, you'll probably have difficulty installing it properly.

You're obviously not going to want to use a box like this Ceiling Box, which only attaches to the drywall.

The best choice in this situation is a box supported by a brace.

I'm not sure what you meant when you said "The remodeling-type expander brace failed", but not all braces are created equal so it may be worth a second try.  With this Westinghouse Saf-T-Brace (and others), installation is fairly easy even when you're working through a small 4" hole.

Remove the electrical box and saddle from the brace (if it's not already).
Slip the brace up into the ceiling, and rest the "legs" on the drywall.

Using an adjustable spanner or open ended wrench, rotate the center part of the brace. This will cause the ends to expand outward toward the joists. Continue until the brace is firmly in place.

Slip the saddle back over the brace.
Affix the cable to the box, and mount the box to the saddle.


Do I get away with the wrong screws and holes on a deck if the paint will cover both?

I think a bigger issue than paint sealing moisture out of the screws is whether or not the screws in question are made of a material compatible with your deck framing.

Pressure treated lumber (which your deck is hopefully constructed with) has a tendency to corrode just about anything you put in it, unless the fasteners are stainless steel, or have a ceramic/heavy galvanized coating. Lumber sold after January of '04 (in the USA at least) is especially corrosive, as lumber mills moved to a different preservative.

If your deck was built with lumber sold in '04 or later, which I'm doubtful yours was, it's especially important that you use screws rated for use in pressure treated lumber.

I'd suggest looking at the box these screws came in, and seeing if they're approved for use in PT material.
If they aren't approved, I'm very doubtful paint is going to make any difference whatsoever.


Should I be concerned about ventilation in a small room?

Yeah, we drummers always have to worry about others complaining. We practiced in a storage building 20x20 for hours (4 guys) and we lived to play another gig. You should be okay. If you are terribly worried, just open the door or window every once in a while for a few seconds to let a bit of fresh air in.


Can an inspector require a specific grounding technique?

If you are taking training this can be found in the NEC section 90.4 "Enforcement" the second sentence states he is the legal jurisdiction having authority for the enforcement of the code and he has the responsibility for making interpretations of the rules, ...

So in answer to your question yes.

The only thing you could do is to appeal it to his employer (the city council or whomever) or try and reason with him. Personally I wouldn't try and tick him off.


Does a small bolt cutter exist which tensions with a wrench?

Bolt cutters come in many sizes, you may need to shop around to find some that can cut 10mm, simple mechanical bolt cutters for cutting 10mm steel will have handles about a metre long.

Hydraulic cutters are more compact and are operated by pumping the handle several times. each stroke closes the jaws slightly. hydraulic cutters with jaws intended for cutting steel bar are available, but seem much more expensive than the simple type of bolt cutter.


i want to install a ceiling fanlight without connecting it to the wall switch

Generally, installers assume that if you have a fan and light combo, you will want to control them separately.   That's what is happening when you see a cable coming from the light switch with red, black, white and bare.  Ground and neutral are shared, and the red and black give you 2 hots so you can control fan and light separately.

You can buy double switches which put 2 complete switches in the space normally taken by one.


There's a link to the applcation instructions on their website.
https://www.homaxproducts.com/kitchen-bath/sink-tile-refinishing/tough-as-tile-one-part-finish-spray-on-kit-white (this page is not the instructions but contains a non-transferrable link )

It says not to allow it to cure for more than 6 hourse before recoating, so you'll have to re-do the surface preparation around your repairs or on the whole tub and then re-coat.

I see no indications that it is not self-compatible - that is it can be applied over an existing tough-as-tiles finish if the preparation instructions are followed (again)


How can I determine the fire rating of my entry door?


A non-contact tester might give you a false-positive on the neutral in some cases.  Try testing the outlet with an outlet tester which will indicate if the hot/neutral are switched or open.  Alternatively you can use a multi-meter to test it.  If you are in the US, you should get ~120VAC between hot and neutral, but 0VAC between neutral and ground if the outlet is wired correctly.


Attaching shower head arm escutcheon to wall

Those are intended to be friction-fit--the wavy tabs you see from the back grab the shower nipple. You might be able to remove the shower head, slide the trim plate off the nipple, flex the tabs a bit with a pliers, and reinstall.
However, a dab of clear silicone caulk could help keep it in place. Put the caulk far enough back on the nipple that it won't ooze out the front of the joint.
One other thought... if the trim rings move because there's a lot of movement in the shower head pipe (in the wall), that's a problem. It should've been secured near the nipple connection. If that's the case, some low-expansion spray foam would really help.


Wiring a light switch that only has one cable when the new switch (with neon indicator) has live and neutral both in and out

you can use this kind of connection (called switch-finder) with neon light connected in parallel to the switch: neon is on when fixture is off, neon is off when fixture is on.


I don't get my electricity wiring - 3 black wires 1 red wire 2 white 1 gray

In some cases, you just have to use a wire tracing tool.  These may be available for borrowing if you have a local tool library.  They come in two main types: the easiest to get versions require power be off.


Why might a thermostat refuse to switch from Heat mode to Cool mode?

Based on the installation instructions for the model you listed, you have two AAA batteries. I recommend you begin by replacing them.


What type of centralized home control hardware is available?

What you're looking for is home automation. X10 is probably the most popular technology system for this, but that Wikipedia page lists a number of alternatives.

To address your specific areas of interest:

LED lighting

There may be pre-built solutions out there, but as you're already writing custom software, you may want to look into using something like the Arduino platform to control your lights. Done correctly, you should be able to get the effects you're after. I found a tutorial about how to do a simple LED system that may be useful.

Speaker Control

There are actually a number of systems out there for home media distribution, such as Linux MCE (it took awhile to load that page when I wrote this, but it did load without timing out). You may be able to use one of these, or work some of the code in from one to duplicate the functionality (MCE is open source). The most simple solution is to use small appliance computers that run a very lightweight Linux solution (like MCE) that stream from the base computer. There are actual streaming devices out there, but I'm not sure how well they would integrate into your automation/control software. If you literally just want to run speakers, you'll need multiple sound cards in the base computer to differentiate between the feeds.

Automagical Applicances

This is where the home automation tech comes in. Using something like X10, you have the ability to flip switches, monitor their status, etc. There are appliances out there that will talk some of these languages, allowing you to control them remotely. A quick search turns up an Engadget article pointing out LG Thinq devices that are accessible via WiFi and ZigBee. If you program your software to speak ZigBee, you should be able to integrate these appliances. Given the number of different protocols out there, you'll probably want to find your devices, try to settle on devices that use one protocol, and then write your code to speak that protocol, but you can also work with multiple protocols if you don't mind developing for each. I believe Linux MCE supports a few of those languages, and since it's open source, you can expand it to support whatever you'd like.


I have recently researched this for my granite foundation. There's quite a lot of info on the internet on this topic, but here's what I can answer based on my experience:

You will only need the most basic tools: a throwel, joint filler and somewhere to mix the mortar. I also recommend getting masonry hawk to hold the mortar while you are repointing

This can easily be a DIY project as there's nothing complicated or requiring expensive tools. It will definitely take a long time. I usually work on my foundation just a few hours a week and there's still quite a lot left. The process is pretty tedious but I find it relaxing. It is probably best to work in small sections so you do not destabilize the whole foundation. I typically remove crumbling old mortar with the joint filler, vacuum the cavity, spray with water and fill it with the new mortar.

I think fieldstone is pretty soft, so even type N mortar might be too hard.  You might want to look at type o or type k

If you decide to hire someone, I would make sure that they know and understand old masonry and techniques.


Mixing or blending diverse tile thinsets together

I'm hoping you haven't paid yet.

I don't think any manufacturer would consider this acceptable. (You could call their tech support just for laughs and see what they say.) At the end of the day, manufacturer's specifications are what matter.

So let's assume you have a sub-standard job. Off the top of my head, here's a few options:

1- tear it out and do over. (At the installer's expense.)

2- if they won't do over, on the premise that you didn't get what you paid for, pay them less. (Possibly a number approaching zero, given the risk of massive failure. If it went to court, I can't imagine that the installer would prevail.)

3- engage a different professional to fix everything and backcharge the first installer.

4- trust the installer when he insists that the job will be fine and functional. This approach requires that you actually believe you'll be able to find him in 6 months when the tiles fail.


What should I do about this fixture brace?

If the brace is loose, you're going to have problems with vibrations sooner or later.  The braces that I see these days look a lot sturdier, so I'd recommend replacing it.

If you have access to a Roto-Zip (or similar tool), a metal-cutting wheel should make short work of the original brace, just cut it off near the joists so there's less to worry about.

It looks like the original brace is bowing the drywall down a little at that spot, so look into a new-work brace that can adjust for different thicknesses of drywall: just break off that tabs that allow it to be installed with 5/8" drywall because they'll interfere with the pieces of the original brace, and mount it so the edge of the box is flush with the surface of the drywall.  Be careful to keep any wiring away from sharp edges you might have from cutting the old brace.

If that's not going to work, install an old-work brace in the spot; look for one with a larger junction box (the one I linked to has a 2 1/8" deep box) so that you can mount it above the original brace and still have the edge flush with the drywall.


Confused about 230V Air Compressor Wiring

You are in the wrong section, 440 is refer equipment, you need too roll back to section 430, Motors, Motor circuits, and Controllers.
Part III Motor and Branch circuit protection
Then look at label:
Continuous duty motor, Section 430.32.
More than 1 HP, Paragraph (A).
Thermally Protected, (2) A thermal protector integral with the motor, check, now we're looking at the right section: under 9A, shall not exceed 170%.
Table 430.248 FLA 1Ø AC, 5 hp, 28A, times 1.7, shall not exceed 47.6, so 45A from table 240.6(A). This is maximum, a 40A breaker would likely work fine and be acceptable by code.
Wire size, minimum 125% of 21.1 is 26.4, table 310.15 or 310.16 depending on year of code book, shows #10 wire, but with a **. So 240.4 says overcurrent protection for #10 conductors after any corrections can't exceed 30A, so you got to upsize to #8 AWG.


Replacing bath fan light heater - Existing Wire is (3) /2 cable

If you have 4 cables going into the switch box and the white wires are pigtailed together and there is a hot, black, connected to the common post,  then  connect your three white wires from the switch box to the three white wires from the fan unit. Then connect each switch wire to one of the wires from the fan unit. You can rearrange the switch locations in the switch box for your preference. Remember to shut off the power at the main panel before doing any work.

In the future, don't just try all different combinations to see what works. Sometimes things will work but can still kill you..... Take pictures and come back to this site for help before you start. There are some really smart people (not me) that will help you out.


Why is the joint compound cracking around a repaired patch in my ceiling?

Firstly, @Michael Karas answer addresses the "sagging"

Cracking:
Premixed Joint Compound (JC) hardens by drying out.  As such, it tends to shrink.  I only use it for final top coats, where the shrinkage is mitigated and application layers are about 1/8 or so.

Setting JC is dry and mixed with water to a similar consistency as Premixed JC, but it hardens chemically (due to plaster of paris).  It shrinks much less.

If your patch is dry and firm, you can continue to overcoat it with premix until you obtain a flat surface.

If it is not firm, remove offending parts until you have a firm base.  Replace with setting JC, adding fiberglass mesh tape or other backing as needed.  Bare JC shouldn't span more than 3/4 inch without a mechanical backing:  Refer to Jon Raynors answer here


If you don't have one, you need a grounding terminal.

Wiring a panel is not difficult, but definitely check your local code to make sure that panel wiring isn't required to be done by a licensed electrician.

All of your other questions can be answered with simple Google searches. You should really do research on your own before asking very broad questions.


Removing angled section from edge of board?

There are router bits designed to cut exactly that profile, at the standard angles needed to assemble polygonal tubes... the usual name seems to be "bird's mouth edge routing bit". Here is one example of a kit with the bit with the desired angles:

Or have I misunderstood your question?


Disconnecting pull chain from ceiling fan to install Lutron 'Maestro' fan/light switch

Step 15 of these instructions suggest disconnecting (removing) the pull chain extentions, meaning the extra length of chain hanging down for convenience.  It doesn't suggest disconnecting the switch itself (i.e. no internal fan re-wiring is needed).

FWIW - Lutrons instructions are very easy to misinterpret in this step, I can see how you arrived at this point.


Can this junction box wiring be used for a duplex receptacle?

This looks like phone wiring, so no

This appears to be telephone wiring, based on the thin gauge and the color coding.  There likely was a telephone jack here at some point, but it was removed by a prior owner, leaving what you see here, which does you no good whatsoever in your quest to add a receptacle.  Of course, it could be for some other low-voltage system, too, such as an intercom or alarm system.

So, you'll have to cut in an old work box somewhere nearby and run NM cable from that box to an existing receptacle, or some other junction where power can be tapped.  Sorry!


What are "termination points" and why do I need them on my electrical supply?

The termination points are where the utility attaches their wires to your system. You need 3 termination points because most US residences have 240/120 split phase service which is provided on three wires: two hots plus a neutral. The ground is of course provided by you via ground rods or (my favorite) a Ufer Ground (concrete enclosed grounding conductor).

Here is a photo of an overhead service termination.

Click for larger view


Metal object encountered when drilling into wall above radiator

Stop. You probably hit a metal plate protecting plumbing or wiring behind it. It's there specifically to prevent people like you from drilling through it and electrocuting yourself or causing a flood.

I recommend you stop whatever job you're doing and consult a professional, or at least a handyman.


The National Electrical Code does not allow devices to sit back inside combustible material.
The pertinent article attention to the second paragraph:

314.20 Flush-Mounted Installations.  Installations within or behind a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, including boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate, shall be made so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1∕4 in.).
Installations within a surface of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall extend to the finished surface or project therefrom.

They make cheap box extensions that are basically a piece of stamped metal with a slit in one side that can be installed without de-terminating the device. Just remove the receptacle, slip the conductors through the slit in the side and reinstall it flush with the surface.
Good luck!


How does this 50 year old shower valve work?

In one hole, and if the seat is open, out the other.
If it doesn't seal well even though you have replace the 'washer' at the end of the stem, a seat grinder will smooth the seat out.  Go find a 75 year old plumber, he will have one.
An alternative valve stem packing was a rope like material - the neoprene washers you added are a substantial upgrade.
I haven't re-seated and repacked one of these in at least 15 years but your assembly looks good.


Why is there a drain trap high on a wall above an air gap?

Assuming that it's a condensate line for rooftop HVAC equipment, the trap is required to prevent contamination of the habitable space by exhaust gases. It's also possible that an inducer fan could draw air through an un-trapped drain.


Water leaking through exterior floor and wall base

Well, as you can see, there is a reason for building the foundation up, or the whole slab up.  You can put some kind of water barrier to stop, what you are experiencing. You know that, sorry.  My thought of a solution would require you to cut a set of paralell slots, up against your house, close to the sill as you can.  You'll have to remove the siding, a couple pieces up, all the way around... anyway I would. Make the slot at least 6" wide. You will need a Tiling spade, it has a long handle, and a long narrow spade!  You are not in a frost area, water is your problem. I'd still make the hole 18" deep, and the top up 12". If you taper the space wide, from top to bottom,  that's even better!  This will be one pour.  on the back side (wall side) you will need a strong  waterproof membrane. Overlap and seal at the bottom of the pour, the same on the front of this "kick wall" but have it long enough to go back up under the siding from the in and out side. You may have to glue it on the top of the cill. A piece of copper flashing or allumium, coming down over the membrame, under the siding. I'd get 12" wide flashing, so a Z bend can go all the way over the cill. Do this but for your doorways, and you will no more seeps into your slab, metal frame house.  It is a fair amount of work, the head guys on your contractors crew, should be able to cut the deck.  Then the younger boys dig the footings, and the older guys measure the total width of the membrame. They need to put up a frame to pour into. Make sure the "boyz" taper the cill OUT from the house! It will require a few screw or fewer bolt holes in your deck. After the cill is dry, lap up the membrane, seal it on top, and add the Z flashing, put the siding back on.  It is not a terrible solution, but it will work! See what others say, not something we see here up NORTH! :)


Can I have dimmable LEDs in a corded lamp?

I don't think you need to consider leading or trailing edge at all. Incandescent dimmers are leading edge and government energy regulations (e.g. Energy Star) lead to broad compatibility with them.

Speaking for US products, personally, I have a Cree bulb running on a Lutron C*L (designed for CFL/LED compatibility) plug-in dimmer just fine. You can see from this list that even CFL/LED dimmers are leading edge, yet they are compatible.

I suggest checking the compatibility lists, looking for a LED marketed plug-in dimmer, and trying it out.


Are there screws made of materials that should not be exposed to heat, smoke or propane?

Yes some metals are not safe for use with food and heat can make the issue worse.
Cadmium comes to mind as it is a byproduct of zinc and when getting inspections on food lockers this is one of the metals they check for (many screws that are galvanized contain cadmium) cadmium is a heavy metal and ends up in our blood like lead this is why lead free brass and solder are a big deal in our water systems. Would I be concerned about 1 screw I can’t say but there are metals that should not be used according to the FDA.


Sounds like your concrete slab is un-insulated around the perimeter and/or the bottom. The very conductive flooring material (tile) doesn't help; the combination of these two means that the floor has very little thermal resistance to heat flow, so you constantly lose heat through the slab.

If the heat you generate is quickly rising through the second floor, it sounds like you have a secondary problem of too little attic insulation, which is causing the rising heat to rise right through the attic rather than get stuck at the second floor ceiling due to all the insulation that should be there.

The second problem is easy to fix: go up into the attic and air-seal all the places on the attic floor that are open to the living space using caulk and canned spray foam, and then blow 15" or more of cellulose onto the floor, covering up any existing insulation up there.

The problem with the slab is harder to fix.  If you have bare dirt around your house rather than a concrete walkway, you can dig a trench around it to expose the perimeter and add rigid EPS or XPS foam insulation panels (not polyiso, it absorbs water). If you do this, take the time to add perimeter drains too; there'll never be a better time.

If that's not an option, and I assume you'd like to keep the tile flooring, you can always cover it up with rugs. It's surprisingly effective. Russians love their rugs.

Finally, it sounds like you have a poorly-designed heating system. Even in a badly-insulated house, heat isn't supposed to pool in the second floor like that. Old houses with ducted furnaces but lacking much insulation commonly had all the returns on the first floor to encourage air mixing. But without more details about your heating system, it's hard to say more.


Yes, but if there is a ground wire in the box, you should attach it to the ground screw on the switch.

If there is no ground wire, but the box is metal, you should connect a ground wire from the switch to a screw put into one of the threaded holes in the back of the box, or use a ground clip placed on the edge of the box.

If there is no ground wire and the box is plastic, you can ignore it.


Fan comes on but the air conditioner does not

There are a lot of possible reasons this could be happening, but here are some common ones:
1. Frozen coils
If too much moisture remains inside the indoor unit, it can freeze and form big blocks of ice around the refrigerant coils. Instead of cooling the air, the refrigerant just keeps making more ice.
There are several common reasons for icing, especially if the unit has been running for a long period of time:
1a. Icing due to clogged drain
If the condensate drain out of the unit is clogged, the backed up water causes elevated moisture levels in the air inside the unit which form ice on the coil. As more water sitting in the drain pan evaporates, the ice gets thicker.
Find the condensate drain from the indoor unit and check it. How to do this will vary depending on your unit.
1b. Icing due to poor airflow
This is most commonly seen on units with very dirty air filters. The airflow through the filter is restricted, meaning that not enough air is flowing through the coils. As above, the moisture condensed on the coils freezes. It can also happen if the return vents are blocked by items in the house.
2. Failing capacitor
Inside the outdoor unit of your air conditioner, there is a large capacitor that is used for starting the unit. If this capacitor fails, the outdoor unit won't run and the refrigerant won't circulate. Make sure the thermostat is calling for AC (turn it really low) and go outside and see if the fan and compressor are running. If they are not, listen closely to see if you hear a faint humming noise. If you hear the hum, you need a capacitor.
3. Low refrigerant
You probably need to get an HVAC professional to check this one - they have special tools to measure the refrigerant flow through the system.


Removing aluminum foil barrier/insulation backer in new hot roof

The purpose of the foil was as a radiate heat barrier and may have also held the original insulation in place. Now that you have insulated with close cell foam I do not see any problem with removing the foil. Like you mentioned you can get rid of the rodent leavings and reduce places where they can live and breed plus places where insects can also live. I would definitely fix the booby trap pitfall it sounds like a big safety concern.


What are important things to do when moving into a new home?

check your home warranty clauses so you are intimately familiar with them
ask your neighbors (assuming you have some, and after you give them a bottle of wine as a welcome) if they have had any flood / foundation / insect-pest / neighborhood problems
check city regulations for parking and other municipal restrictions
contact Homeowners' Association for rules and meeting times/locations
purchase and install a fireproof safe to store your deed and other documents
join the neighborhood watch / militia
if you have kids, walk to the nearest park and school
scope out the local pub
enjoy your new home

Oh, and also change the locks, ensure proper labeling of circuit breakers, clean the gutters, change furnace filters, change smoke detector batteries, etc.


How to protect stone masonry wall from weather

I visited my local paint shop and got a handful of paint cards to match against the current paint. I selected the paint and had it mixed up to good quality. It is a dark grey which is common in my area. I brushed off any loose sand from the stone before painting. Areas that were falling off in lumps I put PVA glue mixed with a small amount of water on it.

You can then paint over that area if need to. I will have to keep on top of painting the lower part of the wall. It will protect against rain and wind.

The problem was the stone was going soft and flaking off. I wanted to know how to protect the stone from the weather. This seems to work. It is worth paying for the paint because it is very expensive to have to outer wall rebuilt. The wall was down the side of the house with a walkway so you do not see it. It was the bottom that got the worst of it.


How do I clean the drain in my bathroom?

I use "Zep Crystal Heat" drain opener that I buy from Home Depot or Lowes. It contains sodium hydroxide so wear protective gloves, eye wear and do not breathe the vapors. Read the label and follow their directions. I usually double or triple the amount they say to use. First, remove the drain cover, then  run the hot water to get the standing drain water hot which makes the product more aggressive, open a window in the room, pour in the stuff, turn on the vent fan and get out of the room. To check on the progress, I hold my breathe, walk into the area, check and get back out. When the vapors stop, I re-enter the room, turn on the water to flush the drain and "shazam" the drain is clean. This works for me.


Took me a couple of minutes to figure out what you were asking, but think I know what your asking.  You need a molding to fit against the ridge beam at the top of a cathedral ceiling? Well my friend, you are not going to find one that is not 90 degrees at a box store. I'm afraid the only good solution is to find a friend with a decent table saw and cut a piece of trim to fit. Use a bevel square and a protractor to measure the angle exactly, then depending on the stock you use, either transfer the angle to the saw for a single triangle trim, or divide it in half and do a double back cut to preserve a front detail of the trim.  Sorry, not enough time or space to do a complete table saw angle cutting primer for ya, but I think you understand the concept.


What is a good reference book for cabinetmaking and/or other millwork?

There are libraries of reference material out there so I'll just give you three that are suitable for beginner, intermediate, and advanced. When I say "advanced" I don't mean that you are an advanced woodworker, but that you have a desire to get a little deeper into the theory and underlying concepts than someone that's just trying to bang together some cabinets.

Beginner: Building Kitchen Cabinets (Taunton Press)

Taunton Press has released dozens of reference manuals covering everything from traditional joinery to building your own work bench and even one specific to cabinet making. They have great full color pictures and illustrations and cover a pretty solid base of information in clear simple language, but anyone with carpentry experience and a desire to get to the heart of things will feel like their only getting a skim coat.
Intermediate: The Encyclopedia of Furniture Making (Ernest Joyce)

This is the "Codex Gigas" of woodworking. It will teach you everything you want to know about furniture and cabinet making you ever wanted to know (and probably more) but it is entirely focused on techniques, methods, and mathematics in the dry delivery of a scientific text book. Also it was written in 1970 so some of the tools and techniques are less than cutting edge.
Advanced: Anything by James Krenov (specifically The Fine Art of Cabinet Making or The Impractical Cabinet Maker)

James Krenov's books are probably the finest written material on the subject of woodworking (and craftsmanship in general) ever committed to paper. They not only cover a myriad of great techniques and practices, procedures and processes, methods and methodologies, but also delve into the softer side of cabinet and furniture. He discusses design, stock selection, the soul of the work in a way that's approachable even to people that wouldn't consider themselves artistic or creative. And at least for me personally, his words on how to think like a craftsman were nothing short of inspirational.

Now, these are all good reads and worth owning for anyone into woodworking. But honestly the best way to learn a trade is to watch someone doing it. Youtube, surprisingly, has a great wealth of videos with everything from garage jockeys talking about their latest successes and failures to the entire library of This Old House and The New Yankee Workshop. Some of the content is more...accurate.. than others but it's actually a pretty effective learning tool. And if you like the Stack Exchange format, there's a Woodworking Community in the commitment phase as we speak so please consider signing up!!


Here's another post with good tips: Any words of advice on dealing with termites?

In terms of prevention, you can pickup a package of traps at the local hardware store and install them yourself. You should also avoid the ground coming into contact with surfaces that termites can infest.  That means you should keep mulch well below any siding and fences, keep wood piles away from the building, and make sure that bushes and trees are trimmed back.


What kind of lock do I need to lock this sliding door from the outside?

http://www.prioritydoorwindow.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Aluminum_Products.pdf suggests that keyed locks are only an option on the Fleetwood 3000/3000-T line, not the 1000 line (which is the only one that is not named "luxury").
I don't know how to tell the model, but it looks like the 1000 series doesn't have keyed locks as a manufacturer option.  If you do have 3000/3000-T, could see if they offer it as as a replacement SKU.
I've not heard of third-party locks for this kind of equipment, but maybe someone else will have some other ideas.


Can I use alternative materials to insulate my roof?

Have been looking into shredded newspaper, pillow or mattress stuffing, polyfiber fill for quilts as I can get stuff like that cheap enough

That was the insulation of yesteryear. You can still tear apart some very old homes and find them lined with newspaper. So why did we stop using stuff like that?

Fire resistance. Newspaper burns like... well, newspaper. Standard polyfill stuffing will burn almost as readily. Fiberglass and cellulose insulation (which is ironically made from sources like newspaper) is designed to have some fire resistance.
Thermal resistance ("R value") - Newspaper is better than nothing, but it's thin paper. It's not designed to resist thermal change. Neither is polyfill. Polyfill has a slight edge because it can trap air (which is what most insulation does since air is a good thermal resistor) but it's still not designed to do that.
Pests - Most insulation is treated with something to make it somewhat resistant to pests. It won't stop a squirrel or rat from making a nest, but they won't be looking at cellulose insulation as a food source either.

I would save up to buy the insulation you need instead of trying to do this on the cheap.


Do I need an ADSL faceplate if I am not using my phone line?

DSL filters are used to prevent voice communications from affecting the DSL (data) signal and vice versa. Typical home phone wiring is a combination of tree (each jack connecting separately back to the network interface (that's phone company terminology for the "main connection", NOT necessarily anything to do with your computer network per se) and daisy-chain (cable from network interface to one jack and then another cable from that jack to the next jack). Bottom line: DSL handles open jacks (no devices connected) just fine and only needs filters on the jacks connected to telephones, answering machines, fax machines, etc. Never put a filter on the DSL modem  itself - the DSL modem includes a different type of filter internally.

I typically wire up a filter at the network interface, after splitting to a separate cable for the DSL modem, but most people don't do that. End result: put filters where you need them and not where you don't. If you ever connect a phone again at that location then you can either put the DSL wall-plate/jack back in or use a regular inline DSL filter. If you were to ever connect a phone without (re)installing a filter, there would be no damage, but your DSL connection would be degraded (slower or not work at all) until you install a filter or disconnect the phone.


How do I remove the connector covers on thermostat wires?

Those aren't covers. They are permanently crimped connectors, like wire nuts but cheaper and faster. To do work on those wires you'd normally just cut them off and strip the wires fresh.

I'd take Harper's advice though and proceed with extreme caution. It sounds like you're not familiar with thermostat wiring and you can get yourself into real trouble.


How little space is possible between the stove and the hood

I'd be more concerned about maximum distance to get enough effective airflow. For minimum I'd recommend tallest pot plus 6"-8" so that you can take the lid off and stir without the hood getting in the way.


Install Honeywell RPLS740B with three-way switches (disable three-way?)

Can I install the timer in place of this switch and tie the load side
  of the timer with both travelers leaving the box?

Yes (probably) and no. Unless the timer pulls an amount of current that would put the circuit over 80% of the 15 A supplied by the breaker (12 A) you can install the timer on the original circuit but don't tap the travelers together.

You can't run 14 AWG wire in parallel, which would be the case if you tapped them together. This is done when dealing with larger wires where the cost factor compared to additional ampacity isn't economical.

  NEC 310.10(H) Conductors in Parrallel (1) General
  Aluminum, copper-clad aluminum, or copper conductors, for each phase,
  polarity, neutral, or grounded circuit shall be permitted to be
  connected in parallel (electrically joined at both ends) only in sized
  1/0 AWG and larger where installed in accordance with 310.10(H)(2)
  though (H)(6).

Note: You can actually run conductors smaller than that in parallel. Those exceptions don't seem to apply here.

  Is an alternative to cap the red traveler, install the timer in place
  of the first line-side three-way, and use the black wires throughout
  the circuit? This would leave the second load-side three way as a
  dummy?

Yes, this is the correct thing to do based on the above information. However, I wouldn't leave a dummy switch there. Just remove the switch and replace its cover with a blank plate.

  Is there another option?

Well, there's a couple additional options depending on current and future plans for operation.

If the device is capable and there's a need, you can use the red as a second timed leg. This would give you the ability to use it for some future fixtures. Obviously, additional work would be done.
You could use the black for a constant hot and the red for the switch leg and use the black to feed a single-pole switch as sort of an override. The timer would turn them on whether the switch is on or not, and the switch could turn them on without manually switching the timer circuit any time you need.


Do I need a breaker in main pannel for sub pannel?

I'll tell you with 100% certainty that you CANNOT do this. Period.

It is a serious code violation and safety issue to have the new 100A feeder be unfused.


How do I calculate the concrete needed for a fence post?

Well, I always use fast setting fence post concrete and you put 2" of gravel on the bottom of the hole, then fill the hole 1/3 of the way up with water, dump one bag of fence post concrete and level the post, then hold it that way for 2 minutes and let dry overnight. The reason fence post concrete is different is that it is packaged to be one bag per post based on a 12-18" hole diameter and a 4x4 post, no pre-mixing, fast setting.


Bolts, concrete fixing bolts, recessed, optionally plugged.
Strong glue
All the above


Is it permissible to cover over an ethernet (or other low voltage) wall plate

You can block it. However, you should consider one of three other options:

Disconnect - Find the other end. Disconnect it. Label it ("living room bookcase"). That way if someone (including yourself) years from now looks at the tangle of wiring and wonders "Hmmm, maybe this wire might go where I need it" or "What does this do, can I remove it?", you won't have to go hunting all over the place to figure it out.

WiFi Hotspot - Depending on your house, adding WiFi hotspots may be a useful thing. Since you have an Ethernet connection sitting unused, you could use this as a connection for a WiFi hotspot. If you use a hotspot that gets power over Ethernet then you don't have to worry about electric power here, so it is very safe. You can even route a patch cable (if you don't feel like running the wire farther inside the wall) behind the bookcase and stick the hotspot on top for better coverage.

Convenience Outlet - Depending on location, either right where it is now (cut a hole in the back panel of the bookcase) or higher up (use this as a junction to run to another box installed at a more useful height and cut a hole in the back panel of the bookcase there) or on the side (use this as a junction to run through the bookcase, coming out with a jack installed in one of the side panels). This provides a convenient way to temporarily connect either a non-WiFi device or a WiFi device where you want a more stable connection.


When using a Hand Saw (or Hack saw), Dust hides line

Painter here.  I stock quality throwaway brushes (Redtree Fooler) and I find them all the time in the wood shop next to saws.

The woodshop guys use paint brushes to dust off woodwork.

A chip brush is a "cheapie" natural bristle paint brush. They are ideal for chasing chips.  The 2" width is the most popular amongst the woodworkers and metalworkers.  Expect to pay $1-1.50 retail for generic cheapies.

Being natural bristle, they hate latex paint. They work fine for alkyds, and are ideal for 2-part coatings (LPU) where cleaning the brush is out of the question.  We win awards with em.


Method of running Romex across roof joists to recessed cans

More information details would be needed to work out a definitive answer but in general the answer is yes if you keep the hole in the middle 1/3 of the joist depth. The worst thing to do is cut the bottom 1/3 where the joists are in tension and cutting it there will severally reduced the strength and create stress concentrations that will most likely cause cracking over time.


Can I set a 2 3/8 metal post into a 4x4 hole?

You'll have a hard time getting concrete into a 1" gap. You'll want to either enlarge the hole slightly or use a loose sand mix concrete, which will likely crack up, but should retain the post adequately.


No great answer for a temp fix. Clean existing seal and surrounding area with a non-abrasive cleaner such as Comet Classic spray-on.  Be sure to remove any loose bits of rubber or other material around damaged seal before applying caulk.

Apply a generous bead of clear GE Silicone all around existing seal. Using a finger and gentle pressure, smooth the bead of caulk, pressing it into any gap or crevice around the seal.
Make certain you have complete coverage of any and all gaps. One you have applied this silicone, you cannot do a second application, as it will not bond. Remove excess with paper towel and allow 60 minutes minimum before checking efficacy. Be certain to used a new, unexpired tube of silicone caulk. Expired caulk will not cure.

Run water, check for leaking. After the caulk has cured, you may want to tape a short length of toweling all the way around the pipe. An old, clean rag will do. Check and replace toweling if it gets wet.

This won’t be pretty but it should keep the floor dry until you replace the sink and plumbing in January. Good luck.


Installing permanent support column in the basement

It's not bad at all actually, the drywall chunk above the column's cover isn't even crushed. For as new as your lumber is this is just for stability to guard against sag & not a truly critical component. The floor isn't cracked so it's still hitting the footer, I'd just check for plumb to see if a new concrete filled column could or should land back in the circle.

Otherwise, it's really not a huge deal. Check for a sag in the beam, then see if you can get the screw up another 1/4" or more without cracking ceilings or walls upstairs. You don't really want to lift anything too much (wait 10 to 20-minutes after every 1/4" for the house to catch up, there will be creaking & moaning, but you do want to be able to back the column down after the beam's supported at straight or level.

You'll want a 4x4 (2-1 on each side) or 2-2x4's screwed together on each side of the column at that new height or higher if it goes up without growing or any problems. Cap the 2x4's with 2-2x6 chunks (screwed together & criss-crossed grain to avoid splitting) to make sure you're supporting the entire beam. Do the same at the bottom of the 2x4's with TWO 3-foot or longer 2x8's (10's or 12's, the wider the better) to spread any load & avoid cracking outside of the footer zone. Get the 2x4's close to the support to stay within the footer zone as much as you can while still being able to spin the column down with a bar through the pole holes & go get a new concrete filled column (adjustable is best) as well as a 1/4" or better steel plates for the column top & bottom at a metal (wrought or ornamental iron) shop as layers of thin metal won't do anything.

The metal shop might offer a welded-on cup or ring for the post's top & bottom, but not really needed once the column's loaded. If you're not happy with house sounds while raising, then do a 1/4" per day until you're level & doors are back to beautifully even gaps & floor squeaks are gone...no reason to rush this with all of the other work you can do down there while the house rejuvenates itself.


I want create some hanging shelves using zinc E-Z Drywall Anchors & Sisal rope. How much weight could this method bear?

There are ceiling mounts available for most projectors that let you attach right to the ceiling, that might be easier.

However, there is an adjustment that lets you use most projectors at an oblique angle to the wall, look for a "keystoning" adjustment in your projector's manual.  This would allow you to get a perfect rectangular image with the projector in it's current spot.


Exposed metal rod in the wall. What is it? What should I do?

Before electricity, gas lighting was common in homes and commercial buildings.  When electric lighting began replacing gas lighting, sometimes gas piping was disconnected from gas and used for electric lighting.  There are even some reports that for a time, gas piping was installed new for electric lighting - the idea was that just in case electricity turned out to be a novelty or fad, the piping would be in place for gas lights.

The picture is not very clear but it appears to be a very corroded pipe with a gray flat cable in it.

The bend in the pipe is sharp, unlike electrical conduit, which is usually bent with a gentle sweep.  Judging from the brickwork, the plaster, the stair stringer, and the advanced deterioration of the pipe, it could be 100+ years old.

I believe it is most likely old gas / plumbing pipe being used for electrical.  The gray flat cable in the pipe might be UF - nonmetallic cable rated for wet locations - that's typically the only flat gray cable you see in recent years.  However the current conventions for color coding the jackets of nonmetallic cables have not been around nearly as long as this structure, so it may be something else.


Can I move the kitchen to the living room?

There is practically nothing that money can't solve, so the answer to your question "can I move the kitchen" is "sure". But it could get very expensive.

In particular, looking at the floor plan it looks like almost all of your plumbing is on the east side of the apartment. Water pipes are pressurized and could be rerouted almost anywhere (e.g. under the floor, in the ceiling) but the sewer lines could get a little more tricky, since they need to slope down to the exit. Also, you will need a vertical vent going up from your new kitchen and to the exterior, either through a wall or the roof.

Much of the difficulty will be determined by what kind of access you have above and below your unit (if any).


How can I disconnect power to an ADT alarm system?

Well, I ended up going into the attic and tracing the wires.  Hot and sweaty work, but I believe I found the power lines.  They ended up terminating to a powerbrick that was run through the ceiling of my garage, next to the garage door motor plug.


How accurate does corner angle measurement on crown moulding need to be?

Cannot really answer your question because everything depends on you no matter what tool you use. Here are the four main factors:

How crafty you with the tool when taking the measurement. Holding, sighting and marking are all part of this.
What type of saw and saw fixturing you use to make the molding cuts.
How you handle and use the saw tool.
And to a lesser degree the type of molding materal used.


when conduit or plumbing is  covered in concrete it must be insulated from the cements high alkalinity, otherwise the metal will corrode and eventually fail. I don't believe the circulating pump has any detrimental effect on your copper pipe. Although it should be on a thermostat so it only works when needed. What I've noticed alot more in recent years is the quality of copper pipe (most imported from overseas) has become much lower. This and a high pH level could be why the copper is failing. If you are going to replace any damaged pipes it would be wise to re-route the pipes in the concrete to be safe. PEX when installed properly is the better alternative than copper.


It's a Braeburn 5400 thermostat, or a knock off of a Braeburn 5400.

5300-5400%20Tri-Fold.pdf

5400%20User%20Manual_0.pdf


Can I use my oven without a light bulb cover?

The bulb, if it is rated to be used in an oven, will function without a glass cover. The reason for the tempered glass cover is to protect the bulb from damage due to pans and trays and also it keeps it clean from hot liquids. To save yourself the hassle and expense for replacing the bulbs it would be wise to order a replacement cover.


The 5 amp fuse on my AC/Heater control board blows when I put the setting to heat

On the furnace control board again jumper the red to the white.  Everything OK?  Now, on the new stat wire, disconnect the Stat completely.  Now at the stat location twist together the red and the white. Does the fuse now hold.  The furnace should start.  If this is the case, you are doing something wrong when you are connecting the stat. Happy hunting and Good Luck.


Will it affect the water pressure if a 3/4" meter is installed on a 1 1/2" water line?

Putting any obstruction or turn in a water line will affect the flow and hence the water pressure. Not only will narrowing the line cut the pressure, but all the meter-related crap inside the device will cause massive turbulence and other flow-restricting effects.

As far as legal issues are concerned, read whatever agreement you may have signed with the district.

Note that state laws always trump any bullshit local regulations, so read state law carefully. In my experience, local administrators often do things that are ridiculously illegal under state law. Often you can coerce such pint-sized local despots by finding some violation of state law they are making and threatening to complain about to the AG or to sue them outright for it.

Water is always very political. In many cases your best course of action is to gather a large group of people (like all your neighbors) and storm city hall. This will often frighten the local gauleiters into stop doing whatever it is they are doing.


During a lightning storm, what causes the lights to temporary cut off and on?

Like your house, the electrical distribution grid has circuit breakers to protect components from overloading.

Unlike your house, the circuit breakers used on distribution equipment don't just pop open and stay there. Instead, "automatic reclosers" are used.

The idea behind a recloser is that most fault conditions that happen outside to distribution equipment are transient in nature: lightning strikes, falling branches, exploding squirrels, and the like. Once the lightning dissipates, or the branch hits the ground, or the animal combusts, the fault condition is cleared. So reclosers will open the circuit when a fault is detected, then attempt to close it again a few seconds later. If the fault persists, the circuit will open again and the recloser will try again after a longer wait (perhaps 20 seconds.) If the third time isn't a charm, then the fault probably requires a human to come repair it, so the circuit will stay open and alert the utility company to send someone to fix it. However, reclosers can be programmed for pretty much any sequence of tries until they give up.

Here's a wikipedia article on reclosers.


Is there any reason not to use radiant barrier sheathing in walls of attic room

Yes, if you don't have a way for the heat to escape rapidly. Radiant Barriers aren't insulation. So, if the reflected heat can't get away quickly, like in a wall, the Radiant Barrier won't do anything of benefit in your location since you would want it facing the exterior to repel heat.

It really would only be useful if it were installed as your exterior sheathing, like the roof, to reflect heat back out through your siding or finished surface. Up North it's used on insulation, not sheathing, to reflect escaping heat back into the living space during the heating season.


How can I prevent pets from passing through an open window?

I wouldn't trust a typical bug screen to keep a pet in (or out). But Google window pet mesh and you can find plenty of similar looking products specifically designed to stand up to pets, such as: Super Screen - Pet & Weather Resistant.


Why are my new roof shingles showing these lighter patches in cool weather?

The roof area that has the lighter color is insulated closer to the roof than the other areas. Insulation is keeping the frost from melting in the lighter areas. The stripes you see between the patches are the location of the rafters, which do not insulate as well.


Why are my bathroom outlets and light not working?

I suspect it's somewhere on the supply side in one of the switches.  This is the side that connects to each switch. Search for any "back stab" connections (wires jabbed into a hole which auto-grips the wire, instead of attaching to the side screw).  If you see one, ideally move it to the screw terminals, but only if you can competently a) torque them, and b) know what to do with "2 wires 1 screw" situations.  Otherwise grab the wire firmly, give the wire about a 1/4 turn twist out and back, and see if that brings it back to life.  Do this with the power turned off at the breaker.  If you can't find the breaker, turn off the main breaker and confirm nothing works.

The second place to check is neutral - surely where there is a wire nut full of neutral wires. If there's tape holding the nut on, that's a sure source of trouble - people tend to tape wire-nuts when they have bad technique (or bad nuts) and the nuts won't stay together on their own. Such a flimsy connection is also a bad connection that will do this, or worse!

Also, 2 GFCIs tripping together is a sure sign that somebody didn't understand about downline protection. Move all their wires to the LINE terminals (GFCIs have a way to put 2 wires under 1 screw) and don't use LOAD at all.  It's only for downline protection.

If my description revealed some possible knowledge gaps, don't worry, you'll gain it soon enough.


Is a junction box required in my situation?

Yes, you must use a junction box to make a splice and also remember that you cannot "bury" that box.  Its cover must be accessible.


bedroom door will not close after hinges werre changed

Make sure the hinge plates are sitting in the recessed hinge seats & are flush to the door jamb & the door edge. Another cause could be that 1 or more hinges are upside down. Make sure the removable pin is on top or the hinges won't close. Also, you may need longer or thicker screws as the screw holes may not be holding tightly any longer.


Firm plaster should be reattached with plaster washers and drywall screws. Fix damage areas with patching for use on plaster and apply an oil-based or shellac primer to seal out moisture. Follow with a top-quality latex paint to give your old plaster a new look.


How do I repair cracks in thincoat plaster?

That crack is most likely directly inline with a seam between two sections of the underlying drywall. Environmental effects or settling of the building structure over years can lead to cracks like this opening up.

Probably the best fix for this is to sand to roughen up the area for six to eight inches or so on either side of the crack. Then apply some good quality mesh style drywall joint tape:

(I would actually install in two overlapping layers).

Then use a drywall mud knife to embed the tape into a layer of drywall mud that is feathered out over a wide area on either side of the mesh tape. If the drywall mud is installed carefully over multiple applications you can minimize the amount of sanding required.


How should I mount a 10 ft 2x6 as a wall shelf?

So, the good news is that you almost certainly have solid wood all above the window to fasten to. This makes it a good candidate for blind shelf supports. (Google, but rockler sells them...)

Alternately (and cheaper), you could have inverted L brackets. Paint the top legs wall color and you'll stop noticing them. Only your fussiest visitors would notice. It's up to you to decide how sturdy you need, but if you find that you haven't got enough to be comfortable, simply add a few more.


take the bulbs out of the fixture, if the fixture shows a short it is bad, there is a possibility that one of the lamps is arcing and causing the short, if the fisture wiring shows open with the lamps put them in one at a time untill you find the problem, Yes I know lamps usually burn open but on occasion the filliment post short and can cause this issue,,,


Plumbing Manifold Use With a Tankless Hot Water Heater

Yes, it still works. Unless a faucet or fixture is open, there is no water leaving the manifold. The heater is thus not running. When a faucet is in use, water flows through the manifold, causing water to flow through the heater and be heated.

A similar thing occurs with a tank heater. When no fixtures are on, the tank is full of water and it is heated. When a faucet is in use, water from the tank flows through the manifold to the faucet, and that water is replaced by cold water from the manifold. At some point, the thermostat turns on the heater in the tank.


Prefereable air intake temperature for condensor-typed tumble dryer

From the way I understand them, condenser type dryers recycle the air rather than using a continuous supply of ambient air.

The air in the drum is passed across the heat exchanger to dehumidify it, then it is routed back into the drum. The heat exchanger is not used as an intake air pre-heater, it is solely for the purpose of dehumidification. Heat is transferred from the recycled hot air to the atmosphere, moisture is collected or drained.

If your's works differently and uses ambient air as a continuous source of "drying air", and the dehumidified exhaust is directed to the outside space (your living quarters), then the benefit of cooling it to provide for more efficient dehumidification would likely be outweighed by the need to heat it more for effective drying, since you did not complain about excess humidity conditions in your living space.

Either way, it is likely that significant engineering was involved in the design of the unit and the operating manual likely gives parameters for optimal performance conditions. I would say that unless directed to otherwise in the manual, any endeavours to alter the temperature of ambient air would provide minimal if any tangible benefit.


What are the pros and cons of engineered hardwood?

Generally speaking, the only downside is that you can typically only refinish (sand down and re-stain) engineered hardwood two or three times, because there is usually between 1/32" to 3/16" (0.6 to 4.5mm) of the actual hardwood layer, and the rest is plywood, fiberboard, or another hardwood.

You'll typically pay more for a thicker top layer, which means you're more likely to be able to refinish it more times, and more importantly, it will last longer.

Like most things though, you get what you pay for. With cheap engineered hardwood there are likely to be other problems (just like with cheap laminate or even real hardwood) including not using a good quality base, which will warp or absorb moisture, poor manufacturing quality causing the top layer to come off at the ends, or the tongue-and-groove not to fit together nicely.


Open hot is expected if that outlet is controlled by a switch (while the switch is off), which is typical of garbage disposals.

You say that in one receptacle "the disposal works" and in the other "it starts running", so I will assume "works" means "is controlled by the switch as expected", and that your question is just why this is so.

Here's what this circuit typically looks like:

  Note the white neutral wire is connected (by the "tab") to both top and bottom of the outlet. Also, for simplicity, this diagram doesn't show ground wires, or a neutral wire going to the switch (which is required since NEC 2011).

When the switch is open, there is no hot connected on the top outlet, hence the tester seeing 'open hot'. If you turn the switch on, you should see a normal working circuit (same on both top and bottom).


The generator manufacturer should publish specific curves relating load to fuel consumption.

It seems like there would be some sort of Y value just for running, with an added consumption as load increases.


Can I use #10 wire for a 30A, 240V pump circuit?

10 gauge is larger than 12 gauge.  If you meant "can I use the smaller one coz it's cheaper", the answer to that is pretty universally no, but you don't need us to tell you that.

The distance might be a factor that might call for going with a larger wire (that would be #8 or #6). But if your pump is recommending the 30A breaker, its draw is certainly somewhat less due to the 125% derating requirement -- its draw is probably 19-23A. (still, too much for #12 wire). You don't need to care about voltage drop at the 30A breaker trip.  You need to worry about it for actual working current of worst-case 23A.  At that particular distance and #10 wire, your voltage drop will certainly be around 3%, which will even make the wire salesman happy.

Wire salesmen want you to be around 3% voltage drop on any wiring run.  But Code doesn't require anything like that, so they're just saying it to push wire.  Code gets concerned when drop gets around 8%. I bet this is a homerun, so all the voltage drop will be in this cable. This drop may be something like 3.17%, and voltage drop calculators online will say "that is over 3% therefore unacceptable" but that's silly.


Cutting down blinds (Specifically metal frame - not the blind itself)

The hand tool for cutting metal is called a hacksaw. For neater cuts, select a blade with fine (narrowly spaced) teeth.

There are many kinds of hacksaws available, but for this use you'd want a traditional one. There are mini hacksaws which might be cheaper but a larger one will make the work faster and the cuts smoother.

After you cut, you can smooth the edges using some sandpaper or a medium/fine sanding sponge. Be careful as you handle the piece because cut metal edges can be sharp.


Try loosening the chrome nut at the wall and then reset the trap and tighten it up. I know "they" say to hand tighten but if the two pieces don't line up perfectly, then a little help is needed. Give it an extra eighth of a turn with a pair of Chanellocks, making sure you're not cross threaded and then tighten the chrome nut at the wall.


You need to use a suction cup. It will allow you to push it in and twist. I've always just used one from around the house. I only have two gu10s in my house. I'm sure you could order one on Amazon that would be designed for the job.


How can I block or fill out a letterbox hole in my door?

I don't think that there'll be something you can buy off the shelf for this.

As it might be tricky to find a block of wood the right depth it could be easier to insert a piece of plywood on the each side of the hole so it fits snugly. Fill the gap around the edge, sand and paint. You may find it easier to make the hole a little larger to create a lip to give the plywood something to sit against. If you make it flush and arrange the grain of the plywood to go the same way as the wood of the door it won't be very noticeable. You can fill the void with some insulation.

If you have a block of wood roughly the right size then use that. Any gaps can be filled with wood glue mixed with sawdust to give a "woody" texture.


Hanging pictures/mirrors to drywalls without leaving big holes

you can use a monkey hook.  they work really well for items that are heavy.  just use multiple hooks for heavier items

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=52367&cat=3,40914,50630,52367


What is an estimated paint to primer ratio on exterior bare wood?

300-400 sq feet per gallon coverage with kilz primer
250-400 sq feet per gallon coverage with your behr exterior paint.
With such a good primer base I would expect 325-350 sq feet per gallon on each of your 2 finish coats.


What substances should you avoid contact with your bare hands?

Expanding foam.

It seems like every time I grab a can of it, I somehow convince myself that I will be very careful and not touch any of it until after it has dried.  I always end up with it on my hands/clothes.  I spend the next 15 minutes with a bottle of acetone promising myself that I will wear disposable gloves next time.


Would a concrete grinder remove a pebble overlay from the concrete base?

I have not removed a overlay but I have put a few down. If the epoxy was dry in that area it might come up easy with a pressure sprayer but a section that has plenty of epoxy will be a bugger to grind. A commercial tile chipper is like a heavy pole blade that cycles back and forth and will probably do a better job.


Is there a functional electrical difference in a wire splice vs a second line

In an ideal world -- these would be identical, and from a purely electrical standpoint, they basically are.  But, we live in the real world, where connections have parasitic resistance and badly made connections can do naughty things while in the process of falling apart due to vibrations etal.

The heatshrunk-over splice can be very good or very bad -- a properly made linesman's splice (also called a Western Union splice) is a robust creature, but is best used with solid wire as it does not work nearly as well with stranded wire.  However, a poorly made splice has a habit of well, disintegrating over time -- and the ensuing arcing is quite the problem-causer.

The stacking of multiple ring terminals on a nut and bolt is standard practice when terminal blocks of that type are used -- it is a solid connection when performed correctly using a locking washer or nut.  It does seem that that is absent from the terminal block in question; however, in the context of an appliance, I would leave it in the as-manufactured configuration (clearly, the maker isn't concerned enough about vibration shaking the bolted joint loose to put the lockwasher in).

The final termination -- a double crimp into a female tab crimp terminal -- is also standard practice in chassis wiring.  When made using a proper crimp tool capable of ensuring a gas-tight, cold welded crimp -- crimped terminations are as reliable as any termination scheme out there, and do not care about solid vs stranded wire.  In fact, they have a long history of reliable service in aviation and other such mission-critical applications.  And considering the factory floor isn't going to use a $10 set of crimp pliers, this is the most reliable termination of the three.


How do I identify the common wire when both wires are red?

If by "common" you mean what North Americans (and I thought UK also) call neutral (blue, black deprecated, white North America)... A switch doesn't necessarily have neutral/common.

A switch connects two wires: a supply wire that is "always hot", and a "switched hot" wire to the lamp which is hot when the switch is on (lamp is intended to be on).

All the switch is doing is connecting those two wires, or not, depending on how you've thrown the switch.  Since it is only connecting, it doesn't care which is which.

Since both wires are hot at least some of the time, it is correct to use a "hot" wire color like red for both.

Where youm may have seen a neutral/common colored wire on a switch is this oddity. Much house wiring is done with twin-and-earth cable, and usually twin-and-earth comes in only one color pair (brown/blue, deprecated red/black, North America black/white). Neutral isn't used in a switch loop, but you're stuck with the wire colors available, so one ends up being black/blue/white even though it's not neutral.  However I have heard of twin-and-earth being made red/red for exactly this application.  Maybe this was required previously.

In a similar vein they might have required (or chosen) metal conduit. Then they would use individual wires of appropriate colors, and the wires could be newer than the conduit.

Up at the lamp, the lamp connects to switched-hot and neutral.  That is the only place neutral enters the picture.


You can first try removing the wire spring clip from the stem and then try to turn the bonnet nut assembly. If the whole unit still turns then keep the unit from turning by using channel lock pliers or vise grip to hold the unit in place. Make sure to use a towel to protect the threads. Once the bonnet nut is remove then twist out the valve stem.


How can I fix flickering and continuous-clicking with a UPS on an inverter-supplied circuit?

What type of inverter is it? If it's a MSW (modified square wave) it's very unlikely that any UPS is going to be happy eating what it provides, since UPSes (even ones that generate MSW themselves) expect a real sine wave (or True Sine Wave - TSW) on the input side.

On the other and more relevant hand, you really don't need any sort of purity to feed most modern computers, many of which (check yours) are happy to take 100-250V at 50-60 Hz, (and don't care about TSW or MSW) since their own power supply is just converting that to DC with a switching converter. Only older linear-type power supplies are all that fussy about voltage and frequency. So viewing the  inverter as a huge UPS is probably a valid approach, and removes a complication. I would suggest a good surge supressor power strip for the computer.

If you really need (for some reason) the cost (initally and in replacing overpriced batteries) and hassle of a separate UPS, or equivalent, consider using an adequately sized "high quality inverter" that runs on batteries all the time, and a battery charger that can handle whatever your whole-house inverter throws at it to maintain charge on that battery all the time - essentially your own "dual-conversion" UPS (most actual Dual-conversion UPSes would have the same complaints about a low-quality inverter input as a normal UPS does.)

The other obvious solution is to plug the UPS directly into the Mains supply, so that the UPS works off its batteries when the Mains go out, and the inverter works from the inverter's batteries (or whatever powers it) separately.

If it is a MSW inverter, the likely reason you can make the UPS happy with other loads is that the other loads (particularly ones with inductance and capacitance) will tend to take the "sharp edges" off the waveform and make it better approximate a sine-wave.


Save your money and buy the cheap cables. They're the same. The "premium cable" game is nothing more than a big scam.


Why does the main circuit breaker trip but not the smaller branch circuit breakers?

The two branch circuit breakers will trip if the load on their protected circuit is greater than 32 amperes, and 25 amperes respectively. However, since the main breaker trips at 40 amperes. If both branch circuits are pulling a full load the branch circuit breakers will not trip, but the combination of the loads will trip the main breaker (32 + 25 = 57 > 40 as you have said).

It's a very common situation to have the branch circuit breakers total more than the main breaker, but this is almost never a problem since the circuits usually don't pull a full load. Remember, circuit breakers are there to protect the wires. They shut off the power if you are drawing enough power to damage the wire, so installing a larger main breaker is likely not an option (unless you contact your power company and have the service upgraded, which will include upgrading the feeder cable).

Contact your local power company, and speak to them about a service upgrade.  Other than plugging less stuff in, or cycling loads, there is not much you can do yourself in this situation.


How do I keep indoor air quailty high without letting in the outdoor air?

Consider sources of volatile and off-gassing materials, pet type, amount of people and pets, what you cook and the kitchens exhaust design, use of candles, how often cleaning is done, and anything that combusts. You then design around that with the suggestions mentioned. Also consider the air quality in your neighborhood and how airtight your house is.


What's up with the PEX on this shower valve?

That is for PEX-A (Wirsbo/ProPEX/Expansion).  Its the expansion type, not the crimp type that is PEX-B, cheaper, and available at big box hardware stores.  PEX-A is slightly better for strength and leaching, and is available from supply houses but costs a bit more.

The way that PEX-A is, it tries to return to form when expanded, so with a special tool it is stretched out with an expansion ring over it, slipped over that fitting, then it shrinks back down in about 10 seconds and holds on.  No crimp rings or anything other than the PEX itself holding the connection together:

While you probably could put PEX-B crimp style on this fitting, its not supported by the manufactures and probably isn't worth the worry of it slipping off someday.  The ProPEX fitting lacks the barbs that the crimp type fitting has.


Dye laminate which lost its color because of detergent

most of the blue dyes in toilet cleaners are copper sulphate pentahydrate.  flushing the stain with dilute muriatic acid should re-dissolve it.  be gentle, wear gloves and a respirator, and keep the area small.  flush with water and baking soda immediately after you notice the stain is gone to stop the reaction from progressing too far.  seal afterwards with wax, acrylic, urethane, etc.


You are right to be concerned about safety. Attempting to use the sockets as they are is a  hazard, the exposed conductors are an electrical and safety concern. What you have is a replacement part for repairing a damaged fixture.


New Thermostat Ecobee3 to Old Galaxy GG-75 boiler - Needs common wire

From the pic, I'm guessing the transformer is the black device under the junction box. Looks yellow and purple coming off of that, you're connecting to the yellow, so the purple would be the common. To be sure, you'd want to connect a multimeter and verify the voltages to ground. It would also be helpful to find the wiring diagram for your boiler to be sure you're interpreting these wires correctly.

Assuming purple is the common, you'd run your wire to that, preferably through that wiring block where the other thermostat wires are connected on the left. There's no issue connecting the common to multiple places.


Hung sinks typically have brackets that connect high up on the sink. (This makes sense, because that's where you'd want to resist leverage.)

If you could somehow fashion a 2 piece bracket, it's likely** (see below) that you could drill into the porcelain (without breaking it), and attach it using sturdy toggles.

Unfortunately, it looks like you have a wall that's already tiled, so you don't have any depth into which to set this bracket. So unless you want to bust up your wall, I'd suggest you stick with the pedestal. Or get a deliberately designed sink that'll have the recess for the bracket built into the sink.

Porcelain is an inconsistent product, so failure is always an option. But, a diamond hole saw, used according to instructions (speed, spraying with water while drilling) will usually drill a successful hole. Plus, in this setting, a major blowout would probably be limited to the invisible back surface, which would mean that the sink is back to being used as a pedestal, which doesn't seem like such a great loss to me.


Leaking outdoor faucet - stop gap solution?

Brass Hose Cap (~$1.50 @ Home Depot and Lowes).

You may also be able to find some with tethers (for those of us that constantly lose things like this) .


What is this single pole switch to empty ceiling box blows breaker when switched on

Something is wrong with the wiring to the ceiling fan or with the connections to the switch.

Possibly in between the last succesful test and the first unsuccessful use of that switch something has damaged the wiring (e.g. a nail into the wall? strain on the wires?)

I would isolate the circuit at the breaker box, test for voltage at the switch and then test the wires attached to the fan switch for unexpected continuity between live & neutral, live & earth. I'd then detach the switch from all wiring and test for continuity across it's contacts with the switch in each state.


why won't a sump pump help? If water is trying to get into the
  basement wouldn't pumping it out alleviate the problem?

A sump pump is designed to be located in a low area, usually a basin or pit, and is for removing water that is actually in the room.

The hydrostatic pressure that you are talking about is the pressure of the entire water table in the earth surrounding your home. There is no way you could effectively lower the entire water table (and subsequently reduce the hydrostatic pressure on your basement walls and floor) with a single sump pump.

  ...will installing a sump pump cause the water to overflow the hole
  and flood the basement...?

Yes, if I am understanding what you are proposing. If you cut a hole through your basement floor and dig a pit, the surrounding water that is exerting hydrostatic pressure on your basement walls and floor would come inside, it would be a bad day for you.


How to estimate the load bearing of MDF plates on a wood/beam construction?

Residential floors in Europe are designed to cope with (by default) either 2.0kN/m2 or a 2kN point load. [Reference: EN 1991-1-1 2002 Tables 6.1 and 6.2].

You are proposing 600kg (= 6kN) over 2m by 1.4m, giving 2.15kN/m2. Considering a normal bed sits on a floor, I'd say we don't need to design for higher loads than a normal floor.

18mm thick MDF floorboards are allowed to span 450mm; 22mm thick MDF floorboards are allowed to span 610mm. [Reference: southern-timber.co.uk] These spans are limited by deflection criteria rather than capacity criteria.

The deflection limit gives a proportional relationship between depth3 and span2. (I'll spare you the engineering equations unless you really care.) Assuming that 15mm MDF is still deflection-governed, and strength doesn't start to dominate, this gives a limiting span of 340mm.


First thing is close the saddle valves you mention in the other room. The cold on IS on right? Maybe someone shut if off because it was leaking? Open the faucets to relieve pressure and leave them partially open to facilitate unscrewing the shafts once the handles are removed.

The handles should pull straight up once the screws are removed. If they do not come off relatively easily try prying them up with a big screwdriver and some kind of fulcrum. If they still don't budge they are likely very corroded onto the knurled shaft. In that case try soaking them in CLR, a readily available cleaning solution for removing calcium, lime and rust. It's a mild acid solution. If they still don't come off you may have to replace the whole assembly. I just went thru this with my old shower faucets. I couldn't even get them off with a gear puller and ended up destroying the handles just to get the assembly out of the wall. In your case I actually would recommend replacing the assembly anyway as they're relatively cheap and the newer cartridge style faucets work much better and require less maintenance. But if you want to persist....

Once you get the handles off remove the bonnet (big nut and you circled) and you should be able to unscrew the knurled shaft and washers in the direction that you would tun on the faucet. You should also find either graphite 'packing" or maybe some other kind of replaceable rubber seal in the bonnet. The graphite packing string can be found at a good hardware store, (i.e. NOT a big box retailer) and if it's a real good hardware store there will even be an old guy there who can tell you how to repack the faucet. There should be instructions on the package too. Also replace the rubber washers to seal in the off position.

Looks like some pretty hard water from the looks of that cold supply. First thing I'd do is disassemble the cold faucet and slowly and carefully crack the shutoff open on the cold supply and see if you're getting water thru that plastic supply. It will obviously come out thru the whole left when unscrewing the shaft so go easy. If no water then you have a blockage somewhere further back and you'll have to go backwards thru connections until you find a blockage. If you do get water there and still none once the faucet is reassembled then there's a blockage somewhere within the faucet and again just replacing the whole assembly would be the easiest solution.


Is it really energy economy to use movement sensor for turn lights on?

Can't find that one. Another company's model that gives numbers (after looking more - MANY don't, which seems sketchy) claims 10mA @ 24v, or 0.01A x24V = 0.24W - less than 15, yes; Quite a bit more than 0.002, though. Whether it's actually worth buying (since you mention that it's expensive) would depend on how much you pay for power and how many hours it would save you 14.75W (or so) - it might take many years to pay for itself, unless your power is also very expensive.

This link has a rather more pessimistic assumption about the sensor at ~3W or so.

And this link has some specific numbers from another brand, ranging from 0.06W to 1.04W (1.04W is a dual-sensor/ ultra-sonic/PIR - highest is 0.18W for PIR only)


GFCI (panel) breaker trips on neutral connection

A GFCI uses a current transformer (CT) to detect differences in current between the ungrounded (hot), and the grounded (neutral) conductors. Since the GFCI is tripping with only the grounded (neutral) conductor connected, that means that there's current on the grounded (neutral) conductor.  This would lead me to believe, that this neutral is tied to the neutral of another circuit somewhere.

You'll want to make sure this isn't part of a multi-wire branch circuit. If the neutral in question enters a cable with two hot conductors, it's likely a multi-wire branch circuit.

If not, you'll want to look for places where this circuit might be in close proximity to other circuits. A multi-gang box with two or more devices, would be a prime suspect. If you find such a location, you'll want to open it up and make sure the grounded (neutral) conductors are separated properly. It's common; especially with DIYers, to simply connect all the grounded (neutral) conductors in a box together.  However, this can lead to the exact problem you're describing.


How to extend brass pipe/conduit that is buried?

You can connect the brass pipe to another brass pipe with a coupling, brass around a pool is the best option as it will not rust. If you would not have said an electrician verified it was brass I would have suggested it was rigid conduit as it looks galvanized to me in the photo. Maintaining the brass will prevent any galvanic corrosion issues , 680.11 allows for rigid pvc but you mentioned pool light. If a wet-niche type light this would explain the comment if they did it right the extra wire. And the use of brass 680.23.8.b.   I would continue the brass for the additional safety it provides for grounding.


How do you plan capacity for electrical circuits?

Minimum receptacle spacing.
NEC Article 210.52(A)-(H) tells us that, the maximum distance (measured horizontally along the wall) to a receptacle should be no more than 6'.  There are two important exceptions to this rule. doors, fire places, and other openings do not count as wall space. Also any wall less than 2' wide, does not count as wall space.  The idea here is that if you have a lamp with a 6' cord, no matter where you put it (along the wall) you should always be able to plug it in.
Lets take this 20x20 room for example.

We'll need a minimum of 6 receptacles, in this room to meet code.  You'll notice the wall with the door and closet, only has 1 receptacle.  This is because the doors, and the 1' 11" wall between them do not count as wall space.
Keep in mind, however, this is a minimum code. You can always install more receptacles, if you want to.
Calculating loads
Once you've determined where your lights and receptacles will be placed, you'll have to determine how many and what size circuits you'll need. For this, we can reference NEC Article 220.
Lights
For dwelling units, we'll use 3 Volt-Amperes/ft² to figure out how much lighting we might want.  When measuring area we must measure from outside to outside, so we'll have to include the wall thickness in our calculations.
So if we have a 20'x20' room, with 2x4 walls and 5/8" drywall on each side we'll get.
3 1/2" + 5/8" + 5/8" = 4 3/4"
20' + 4 3/4" = 244 3/4" = 20.4'
20.4' * 20.4' = 416.16 ft².
416.16 ft². * 3VA = 1248.48VA
We know that a 15A circuit will be 1800VA (15A * 120V = 1800VA), so we can see we'll only need one 15A circuit for lights.
Receptacles
When calculating loads for receptacles, we'll use 180VA per receptacle. Using this value, we can determine that we can have 10 receptacles on a 15A circuit.
15A * 120V = 1800VA
1800VA / 180VA = 10
For each 20A circuit, we can have 13 receptacles.
20A * 120 = 2400VA
2400VA / 180VA = 13.3333333333

It's a good idea when wiring up a new room, to keep the lights and receptacles on different circuits.  This is not required, but it does make practical sense to do so if you can.  As an example, lets say you have the lights and receptacles on the same circuit. Every time you vacuum the lights dim, then the breaker finally trips. Now you're left standing in a dark room, trying to get to the door without stubbing your toe.  If the lights were on a separate circuit, you wouldn't stub your toe.
∴ lights + receptacles on same circuit = stubbed toes.
Now I'm not saying you should have a bunch of circuits with a single light on them, just that it's a good idea to have receptacles and lights on different circuits.  You could always share a light circuit across a few rooms, to decrease the number of circuits required.
The best way to figure out how many, and what size circuits you need for a room. Is to plan out how many consumers you'll have first.  Decide how many lights and receptacles you want, then determine what size/type of wiring you'll need.


What determines which heat energy meter is mine in a duplex?

Turn all of your heat / AC devices off then go out and verify one is moving and one that is not. Many utilities have the tag number from the meter or seal on the bill. With smart meters ID tags are much more common.


The most common reason for not being able to reset a GFCI after performing work on the circuits is miswiring the GFCI. Verify both your source or line side circuit neutral and hot conductor are connected to the Line side of the GFCI and the Load side circuit neutral and hot conductor is connected to the correct terminal. The neutral must be separated and fed though GFCI device also. So no pigtails. This is a common mistake and has happened to many professionals myself included.

I can't definitely say this is the problem but it is a good start. Good luck.


Any leak can rot the building, ruin insulation, cause electrical shorts, and cause mold. Water and any part of houses other than the inside of the plumbing don't mix, in general.

Since this is the bathroom fan vent, you have immediate potential for electrical/water interaction.


Can I use a swamp cooler to cool an AC unit's condenser?

Using a water cooled condensing units for refrigeration is not a new idea - large chiller units have been doing this for many years, but it's not as simple as hooking up a hose and letting er rip...  there's a lot of additional maintenance involved with all the cooling water infrastructure - even a simple spray evaporation cooling system requires nozzle cleanings, pump maintenance and such pretty regularly.

Home AC units don't really need the efficiency boost from evaporative cooling because the air cooled condensing unit(s) are efficient enough without introducing the complexities of water lines, spray bars and a drainage system for a small direct expansion system.  If the condenser is not giving you the proper heat rejection - just upsize the heat exchanger... far cheaper and more reliable right?

That being said, I have a window unit AC that takes the condensate and splashes it back on the condenser fins to boost efficiency, and I know there is a model of RV air conditioner which does the same thing.  It is possible this feature has been added to DX condensing units - but I have been out of the HVAC world for some years now.