How to repair solid wood cabinet finish after fire?

It depends on whether the wood is actually singed or just the finish.

You need to remove the finish on the door (and perhaps the whole cabinet unit), but begin with a test stripping of just the damaged area. This can be done with solvent strippers (harsh and smelly, but faster) or citrus based (a bit slower but more person/environment friendly).  The wood then needs to be lightly sanded.

Refinish
If the wood is not charred (black or severly discolored), you can strip the rest of the door, sand it, stain it to match the rest of the cabintet and finish it with a polyurethane finish with a sheen similar to the cabinet. Getting it all to match can be hard, so you may wish to do the entire cabinet.

Repair and Refinish
I the wood has a slight char or discolorization, you can try to sand these areas out or use a diluted wood bleach to match the rest of the wood. If this works, then proceed as with refinishing above.

Paint
If the damage is too deep, you need to cover it with an opaque finish, such as paint or a heavily pigmented stain. This will change the overall look so it needs to be done to the entire cabinet. Sand away the damaged finish and lightly sand the rest of the piece with 120 grade sandpaper. Then refinish according to the paint/stain directions.

Countertop
If the laminate is blistered, there is little that can be done except replace it.  If it has just lifted, you may be able to reglue it. This generally will not work unless the lifted section is near an edge and can easily be pushed flat. If you can lift the whole section at least 1/2 inch, contact cement works best. Spread glue on both faces to be joined and let dry separately before pressing together. If the gap is too small, you can force conventional glues under the area and weigh it down while the glue sets.


Furnace struggles to ignite after new inducer motor

First off, I am going to assume you replace the inducer motor and wheel with the proper replacement. They are sized exactly to provide enough flow through the heat exchanger while maintaining a negative pressure in the vent pipe.
That said, you are having a problem with flame proving. You cleaned the flame sensor but unless you have extremely dirty gas it is almost never dirty enough to cause a problem. Make sure the white wire is connected all the way from the flame sensor to the circuit board. If you have a multi meter with micro amps you could unplug the white wire at the flame sensor and plug a lead into each wire in series. You should get about 4-5 micro amps with the furnace running. If you don’t, it is either a bad ground or a bad circuit board. Usually a bad circuit board but I have seen all sorts of grounding problems from no ground to the furnace to a bad house ground allowing too much voltage into the ground circuit. I have also seen Payne (Carrier, Bryant, Day and Night) furnaces work for 15 years with a bad ground and then stop working. Once the ground was fixed the furnace continued working fine.


what kind of drill bits are these? Trying to drill through flat side of a fence T-Post

Yeah, newbies + metal drilling is usually a recipe for disaster.

Usually I'm a fan of having newbies use hand tools for a good while until they get the tactile feel of the tool and the material.  That's hard to do in drills, though, as proper, usable hand drills are practically unobtanium these days.   So I'd prefer newbs start with a drill press where parameters are easier to control. So let's talk about that.

To drill a metal, you start with what material it is, then you go off to a chart of feeds and speeds for what engineering and experience has shown is correct for that material.  I work a lot with mild steel and I prefer to start with 1/8" drills because they're dirt cheap and they break about when they get dull.

So feeds and speeds chart tells me that for tool steel speed wise I should be at about 60 surface feet per minute, or 720 inches per minute.  A 1/8" drill is about 0.4 inches circumference. So 720/0.4 gives me 1800 revolutions per minute.

Since we're not milling or lathing, and I don't have a drill press with an autofeeder, feeds must be dialed in "by feel".  "Feed" coarsely maps to "pressure" when in a drill press or a hand drill.

When you have feeds and speeds correct,

Cutting is efficient and makes good progress.
Chips are long - they are not chips but slivers/tendrils, and they are so long and consistent that they threaten to wrap themselves around the drill bit!  So you back off for a second which has the effect of breaking the tendril.
The drill bit does not get hot.

So if the above isn't happening, newbies tend to go "oh, that's normal" and continue with bad technique.  STOP.  Don't have any tolerance for bad drilling into metal, because that only work-hardens the surface, making it even harder to get restarted.

First, make sure your drills are sharp.

Then, recheck your speeds and make sure they're at least in the ballpark.  Like I said into hard steel you need 1800 RPM on a 1/8" drill.  (more like 3000 RPM into mild steel).  That can be a problem. Everybody these days has one of those studly drill-drivers which is mainly for driving drywall screws, and it maxes out at 400ish RPM.  That would be about right for a 1/2" drill bit into tool steel, but the tool doesn't have the torque for that.

A Dremel moto-tool (whose arbor is 1/8") only develops significant power around 7000 RPM.  Then there are the cheapie corded drill-NOT-drivers, which like to spin around 1500 RPM.  They're not a bad fit actually.

For Feeds, you have to dial that in with pressure.  And the usual mistake is to not use enough pressure and again, work-harden the material.  IME enough pressure requires pushing hard enough. And - this takes skill - you have to push straight down the drill bit, not partly to the side, otherwise you'll break the bit! Note that the handle is not in line with the bit.

You know when you have pressure right, because you start getting lovely, stringey chips and cutting proceeds at good pace.  Learn to do that again.


Replacing 3-way switch in 4-way circuit with an occupancy switch - not working correctly

You generally have 3 conductors in a 3/4-way switch loop, and you can't misuse ground as a conductor.    That leaves Only two ways to do it (short of a relay and low-voltage wiring):

Smart switches in the auxiliary locations

Obtain smart switches designed to be "remotes" for the main motion sensor and interact with it electronically, either using 1 wire as a data line, or wireless via power-line signaling or radio.

Very lucky topology

This can only work, if

supply power comes in to the light, the switches are all one spur, and the motion sensor is in the first box.
supply power comes into the same switch box as the spur to the light, and the sensor is in that box.
the essential interconnections are in conduit, and you can pull more wires.

Otherwise you'll have a spot where you need 4 wires, and you only have 3 in the walls.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's current return.  The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch.  It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch.   They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit.  The 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way.  Which you happen to have spare. However, if supply to the light also travels the switch wires, you'll need 4 wires in that segment:

always-hot for the smart switch
messenger 1
messenger 2
neutral to return current from the light

This is one more than a traditional n-way, installed with the usual 14/3, and you can't retrofit a consuctor.

This does work if your topology is just right: the two remaining physical switches are on a spur.  In that case you won't need to carry lighting power (i.e. The neutral) between switches and you'll have enough wires.


Why is my bathroom floor raised up very high?

In some older homes built between 1900-1930's it was common to set the ceramic tile in a bed of cement. The cement was poured over the subfloor. While this was a great stable base for the tile it did raise the floor. You may also have a case where the floor was damaged and during the repair or remodel they added additional layers of plywood or tilebacker to form a base for the new tile.


It looks like you're in luck.  There's a good selection of tools called mini cut-off saws.  They take a blade or wheel of the size you're talking about.  Tiny saw blades and abrasive cutting wheels are readily available supply items.  Diamond wheels ought to be easy enough to find.  For example:

MicroLux® Mini Miter / Cut-Off Saw from Micro-Mark

The picture shows it cutting wood, but it also cuts metal (and other stuff) using the appropriate wheels.

A Harbor Freight knock-off: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html

Here's one of many at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Speed-Cut-Off-2-Inch-colors/dp/B000VWHTUG.

Many offerings on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/bhp/mini-cut-off-saw


Code compliance of using UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) shims for deck leveling

I don’t think there will be any issues using UHMW. It will never rot and it can be drilled and screwed it wont break under impact so I only see advantages it is a vapor / moisture barrier also. I have used it for pool projects but not often because of cost, I live just south Benton , lane and Lynn counties and they would not have a problem with UHMW.


Help identifying shower valve and cartridge

Looks like an American Standard, hard to tell as your bottom photo is not that great.

https://www.supply.com/shop?nid=567051&d=1124-16385&wmh_cid=236648182&wmh_aid=14658639502&wmh_kid=69378820539&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_o7NBRDgARIsAKvAgt3kDpHmf2lHcIlhVOvT-_RT2EC3H95CkP3ieOXSRCL3rAhEJijbyEQaAhZmEALw_wcB


Make a hole deeper than the drill bit is long

A 1.5" hole (38mm) in concrete is beyond any conventional drill.  You might get away drilling empty block, but not a foundation.

I'd suggest renting a big rotary hammer drill driver for this job.  Most rental places are happy to rent you a suitable bit for the task as well, on the basis if you didn't have the tool you're unlikely to have the proper sized cutter.

It might also be a coring hole saw instead of a masonry twist drill, potentially with a water feed for keeping the dust down.    The bigger ones come with a base that you bolt to the wall or floor to maintain tracking and not risk bending your tool's shaft.

Either way this is going to be a heavy tool to hold that is enormously loud, and will have high vibrations to the user and the structure into which you're drilling.

More info at https://www.instructables.com/community/How-to-drill-a-4-inch-hole-in-concrete/

Also, consider that you risk running into reinforcing rod (rebar) in a foundation, so your cutter will have to deal with steel as well as concrete.

Once the hole is done, you will absolutely have to clear it of dust and then seal the fresh surface - cut steel will need rust protection and the concrete will need silicon of some sort.

Consider also what other concrete holes you might want to prepare while you have the drill in your hands.

There's no shame at all in getting a contractor to drill your hole too - they will have the gear and probably cost not a lot more than a rental.


If it is possible, use the ripped down 2X4. The built up shingles will work for a while, for I think they would compress over time since the asphalt or the derivative of it will move if given reason to.

If there is no room for sistering a full sized joist beside it, perhaps just a 2X4 glued and screwed to the side? Just in case the reason why it cannot be sistered otherwise is from utilities passing through the way. A notch here and there will get past issues too.


Mounting a TV wall mount to stud where A/C is detected

I agree with ppa about the wire running down the stud. Try to determine which side of the stud it is on by slowly moving your detector away until the light goes out. Probe for the stud with a 4d finish nail until you locate the exact ouline of it. Then follow bats advice and carefully drill the stud with a pilot bit for your lag bolt. You may want to be just a hair off center away from the cable but still in the meat of the stud. The pilot bit should be half the diameter of the screw or less. This should guide the screw and keep it from wandering off.

If you take your time and are careful you should be able to avoid the electrical cable in the wall and still get the holding power of the stud. I would not trust #10 screws or drywall anchors for this job.

The best way would be to remove a part of the drywall, attach horizontal blocking between the studs and patch the wall back up. Then you have a really solid installation. But then, this will cost more time and money.

Good luck!


What are the possible ways to prevent heating pipes in an entryway from freezing?

Some different ideas:

Remove the baseboard water heater and replace with electric, thereby creating it's own zone. If the only pipes in this room were for the radiator, you wouldn't even need to set the heat, as there are no more pipes to worry about.
Add insulation to the mudroom
Keep mudroom door open when using wood heater
Splice your pipes and add the mudroom baseboard to one of the other circuits that will be running even when wood stove is on (basement, likely).


Is it acceptable to retrofit a new-work plastic electrical box by screwing through it into a stud?

Yes, as redlude97 mentions, they make boxes designed to mount this way.  They're often sold as old/new work boxes since they can be used just as easily either way.
Here's a picture of a typical example.  This one is made by Arlington and sold by Platt, (though this is not an endorsement of either of those companies; it just happened to be the first google result):

Edit in response to your question edit:
Since you're asking specifically about using a new work box not designed for this purpose, that would most likely not be allowable unless the manufacturer specifically allows it in their instructions.  One of the primary jobs of electrical boxes is keeping contained any fires that may try to start inside of them, and UL (or other testing labs) make sure they do -- provided they're unmodified.  Once you start adding holes in them that the manufacturer didn't put there, then they can no longer guarantee their fire performance, and their UL listing is technically no longer valid.  Now, an inspector might not notice, and just assumed you used one of the ones designed to be mounted this way, but it would still be a code violation.  This falls under Sec. 110.3(B) of the electrical code -- you must follow manufacturers instructions when installing listed equiptment.


How can I economically switch between two home power sources?

If you are OK with manual transfer operation, what you're after is called a "select circuit" manual transfer switch -- they're pretty readily available, for anywhere up to 12-16 circuits.  Reliance and Generac both make them.


Dishwasher - 3/8 inch 90° elbow leaks. How do I tighten it without overtighting it and it is pointing down?

Try tightening the elbow more. You don't usually have to worry about over tightening brass on brass, You can torque them pretty good. If the fitting doesn't point down, so be it, it needs to be tight.


is there a solar passive water condenser (from humid air) design anywhere?

Finely, i've found this product. the closest i came to... although i would like to find a diy design that generates water for adults trees.


Is it possible to convert a switched light into an unswitched outlet?

Yes, absolutely!.  You can do this by pulling out the switch, and splicing together the two wires that formerly went to the switch.  Then put a blank cover plate over that switch's electrical box.

You should know however, that you don't have to have a constant power outlet for a garage door opener.  You can have a garage door opener on a switched outlet just fine.  And you can use that switch as a lightweight form of security lockout.

I would recommend instead you put a switch guard like this over it, and just keep that switch on forever.  It's less work and easier to undo.  It also would let you cut power to your opener if you wanted to without getting up on a ladder.

Put a descriptive label on it "Garage door, do not turn off" if you want.

You can also get adapters that give you two outlets and a light socket with a pullchain, into which you can plug your garage door.

This way you can keep the light in place and also avoid having to do any wiring in the ceiling.  However, you should shop around and make sure it can supply the amperage you want.  Use LED bulbs to conserve amperage and stand up to the vibration of the opener better.

If you cant find a double-outlet-plus-pullchain-light adapter (above) that satisfies your amperage need, then consider one of the single-outlet adapters:

Lastly, if none of those do what you like, you should replace the light fixture with one that has its own built in outlet, so that you don't lose the overhead light capability.  This is rated for the full 15A of a normal outlet, and accepts a grounded plug without the cheater adapter you would otherwise need for the light-socket-to-outlet adapters above.

You can get all of these parts at any common home center.  Have fun!


How can I remove wax spilled on a painted wall?

Generally spilled wax can be wicked up with a brown paper bag or newspaper and a clothing iron or hair dryer. If it is on a painted surface, I would try that or even hot water. If it is on an unpainted surface, then it will need to be wicked up as much as possible and then repaired.


You are not going to be able to restretch it if it is as smashed as you say. What you will need to do is cut out the bad part and insert a new length of fencing. You attach the new piece (splice) by taking one piece of wire from the fence and winding it through the existing fence and the new fence. This wire stitches the two pieces of fencing together.

Once you get the smashed portion replaced with good fencing you can restretch the whole length and attach it to the posts as normal.

pic from fence-material.com


Wiring a four wire gfci with a ground wire

First you need to make sure the breaker for the circuit you are working on is turned off. If you are using a voltage tester and are properly trained test the circuit at the outlet to verify 120 vac. Next turn the breaker off and retest. Make sure the breaker stays off while you are working on the outlet. Other people in the house can make an honest mistake so you need to take precautions. You now should read no voltage or something low 12-16 volts depending on the quality of your tester. Next check your tester on a outlet that still has power and read 120 vac. This process will verify your tester is working properly and you will not get hurt or worse! It sounds like you have two black and two white wires along with the ground wires. Separate the wires so they stick out of the box straight and are paired up. Make sure no one goes near the exposed wires. Turn the breaker you turned off back on and check each pair testing the black to white so you can identify the feed. After you have tested both sets of wires and found the feed turn power back off and repeat the testing process. Make sure someone does not turn the breaker on when you are working on the exposed wires. To install the GFCI the black and white wires you had voltage on connect to the side marked line. Good tight connections are very important. Next connect the black and white that had no power to the load side of the GFCI outlet provided GFCI protection is required down stream. Turn power back on, test for power, push the trip button, verify no power, push the reset and test for good power, finally test the trip on the outlet every 30 days to insure safe operation.

Regards
John J Deery
Master Electrician


The windows in the top photo are actually doors. They are aluminum, probably a custom extrusion.

You will have a VERY heavy window. Your opening mechanism will need to account for that, as well as the structure which supports the hinges.

The windows in the lower photo are actually made of steel T-section.  Yes, they are welded.  The glass is glazed in using traditional putty glazing (on the outside of the building, very impressive!) However I would use a quality silicone, and a great deal less of it.

You get sealing by designing for gravity and using rubber gaskets. Trying to do it with steel fitting tightly is going to create windows which bind, get stuck, and are sensitive to tram problems.  You won't knock the window out of tram, but the window frame? You betcha.

I don't like the screw-in plywood.  You are dealing with heavy windows and it will not hold unless you use a lot of screws.  I would go with metal for that. Tolerances should be not too critical since you should glue in the windows with a quality silicone caulk.  Caulk has no shelf life, it is garbage after a year or so, so don't use old stock.

Designing windows well is an iterative design. The best aren't good because they're smart.  They're good because they've made mistakes, learned, made more, learned, repeat.


What is this small triangle on this screw head?

After reading up a bit on screws of various types I noticed this small snippet in the German Wikipedia:

Von 1967 bis 1992 konnte man die Schrauben anhand einer Körnung am Schraubenkopf erkennen. Seit 1992 wird der Schriftzug (SPAX) in den Schraubenkopf gepresst.
(Between 1967 and 1992 the screws could be distinguished by a punch mark on the head. Since 1992 the "SPAX" lettering is punched into the head.) — horrible translation by me.

It indeed seems to be a Spax screw and a bit worn. The cutting part of the thread is barely recognizable as such and the point is not quite pointed anymore. But other features are still there, such as the part of the head that creates its own counter-sink.
So I guess it came from some old wooden parts and I salvaged the screws. Or whoever. No idea where they came from, they were in my random screws drawers in the basement and just happened to be of the right size for what I needed.
When knowing what to search for one can also find images with that marking:

And it seems that some special-purpose screws still have the old marking:

Well, learned something new about screws, that not all wood screws are equal, and that I didn't even have to pre-drill holes for what I've been doing recently.


How do I go about determining how to wire a breaker box in a cargo trailer

If all you are planning to do is plug it into a standard 120V receptacle then you don't need a breaker box in the trailer at all. The plug and cord are your means of disconnect.


What is the best proportion mix cement, sand and aggregate to use in mosaics?

It sounds like a portland + sand mix (or bagged mortar mix) to mortar the tiles first might work. Fill the remaining form with concrete before the mortar sets so they can bond. A bit of vibration should help to fill in gaps. Not sure how well this would hold up to foot traffic over time.


Why won't my AC system turn off after I flipped the breaker?

You are missing something.  Either you have not found the correct breaker yet, or the breaker is not inside the breaker panel for your house.

Walk through each breaker in the breaker planel for your house.  You could have a mislabled breaker.  (The breaker you are looking for is likely a two-pole 240V breaker, maybe 30 amps or better.)

Since this is a central cooling unit, it might be powered from its own breaker box.  Follow the electrical supply wires (cable) back from the unit.  Where does it go?  You might find another breaker box dedicated to the cooling unit alone.  There might also be a breaker in your meter box protecting the unit in addition to the main breaker for your house.


Will a Tripped GFCI wired at the end of a circuit kill power to all receptacles in that circuit? (Panel Breaker not tripped)

No, it will not.
In fact, there’s probably nothing wrong with the GFCI.
What happened is you temporarily overloaded the circuit due to said munged extension cord, and this overload blew a fuse in one of the other receptacles.
OK, “fuse” is the wrong word, obviously receptacles do not have fuses... but it fails exactly the same way.  One of the receptacles has a poor connection.  The overload of the extension cord burned the connection out.
Find the bad connection
The most likely cause is “back-stab” connections - where the wire is jabbed into a hole in the back of the recep. (Mind you those should never be used on a 20A circuit).  It can also happen from a loose screw connection.
Go to each recep, identify any backstabs, forcibly pull and twist them out, and search them for burn or spalling marks.  If you find one, gotcha!  Move that wire to the side screw by stripping a little more insulation off and shaping it into a J-hook to go around the screw. Set it clockwise so the screw tightens not spreads the wire.
Then move the GFCI so it does protect the downline
The sockets on a GFCI are on the LOAD side of the GFCI - they are in the protected zone.  You can put other connections in the protected zone; just attach them to the LOAD terminals of the GFCI.  That is the only thing LOAD should ever be used for; all other connections should be to LINE.
So, relocate this GFCI recep to one of the indoor outlets.  That will get it out of the weather and make it last a lot longer.  The closer to the panel it is, the more it will  protect - but don’t allow a refrigerator or freezer, fire alarm, sump pump or radon pump to be on GFCI protection, as they are safety devices.  Other than that, garage outlets should be on GFCI if possible.


What is this gap above the fascia trim called and does it pose any ice-dam risk

It looks to me like a version of "continuous soffit vent" that is not in the soffit. Interesting placement. If ice damming does occur it will go into the inside of the soffit but it may not get to the wall and ceiling framing. If ice damming has occured before, there will be water stains as evidence.


Will nailing vinyl over my wall ruin the paint over time?

You need to know how fresh the paint on that wall is and what the sheen of the paint is (matte, satin, semigloss, etc).  Paint that is glossy and less that.. 6 months old will tend to still stick to things that are hung on the wall (I made up that time frame, but feels right to me).  Even matte paint can have this issue, but it's far less likely.

A good option might be to hang up builders paper (basically kraft paper like grocery bags are made of) to provide an intermediate layer between the paper and the vinyl.  The paper can still stick to very fresh paint, but it is less likely to do so.


Assuming the rocker on this switch doesn't say ON and OFF, this is most likely the middle switch in a "4-way" arrangement.  This is when three or more switches control a light.  The switches on the "end" of this setup will be the three-way switches you are used to.  The one(s) in the middle will be 4 way switches with 4 screws.  Rather than connecting travelers to a common screw like a 3-way, they flip the connections of the two travelers, so there are two travelers in and two out.

You might say that there are only two switches controlling the light, and in that case one of the three ways on the end could have been removed over the years.  You could try and diagnose that and figure out what all the wires do, but the simplest thing would be to get a new 4-way switch and use that.


If you really feel you need to sister the joist all the way over to the beam, then I would 1) remove some more of the floor, 2) remove the existing single joist hangar and 3) replace it with a double joist hangar that will accommodate both the
existing and the sister joist.


How can I make my electrical box dustproof?

Use a weatherproof box and a weatherproof extension ring (or rings if you need a lot of depth) if you cannot find a weatherproof box to suit.
Or, just seal up the box with duct seal (non-hardening electrical putty for sealing up conduits.)
Unless you use a weatherproof switch enclosure (which may not be compatible with whatever absurdly deep switch you have chosen if it's not like a normal toggle switch at the mounting end) the switch itself will be an entry for dust into exactly the places you most don't want it.
Depending on the nature/purpose of the switch, enclosing the entire switch behind a gasketed door might be appropriate - but not if it's something that requires immediate access, like an emergency stop (though most of those are dust-resistant and/or waterproof, or available that way, anyhow.)
Addressing dust collection/control is another approach. It's not good to breathe that stuff, so getting it out of the air ASAP is good for you AND your electrical items.


What are the dangers of operating a mini excavator?

OSHA has a search engine.  Many accidents are not reported to OSHA, in particular, amateur/homeowner operators like you don't have a reporting chain to OSHA.  But here are those OSHA knows about.
Obviously the vast majority involve the operator injuring others.  I omitted them since you say you'll be a lone worker (which has its own set of risks...)
The following contains descriptions of serious injury and death. Reader discretion is advised
Stuff they brought down on their own heads

At 11:00 a.m. on May 5, 2020, an employee was operating an excavator (KOMATSU Model PC240LC, mid-size hydraulic excavator) to jackhammer the base of a concrete silo so that two coworkers operating undescribed heavy machinery with one inch cables attached to the silo to pull it down once freed from its base. As the employee was jackhammering the base, the silo collapsed and fell onto the employee's excavator. The employee received unspecified fatal injuries from the falling silo material and was killed.

At 3:30 p.m. on August 2, 2019, Employee #1 was clearing trees and brush from a lot, using an excavator. One of the trees fell on the cab of the excavator and killed Employee #1.

At 4:00 p.m. on August 7, 2018, an employee was installing steel shoring in an excavation. The excavator inadvertently released the steel shoring plate which fell onto the employee. The employee was hospitalized with multiple rib fractures and a wrist facture.

Hit power lines

At 4:30 p.m. on April 13, 2020, Employee #1, employed by a pumping company, was working at a construction site. He was operating an excavator to drill a point well. The excavator became energized by an overhead power line. Employee #1 sustained an electric shock. He was transported to the hospital, where he died.

By the way, the machine chassis has a fair chance of protecting you while you remain in the cab, because the whole metal machine will tend to be one voltage (whatever it is touching).  There's no harm in being at one voltage, even if it is 21,000 volts.   The dumbest thing you can do is try to climb out of the machine at that point, because you'll be touching a) the energized machine and b) earth. Either stay put and call 911, or if able, move the machine to disengage from the wires.  But if the wire is downed, get hundreds of feet away from a downed wire before thinking of climbing down, as a voltage gradient can carry some distance.  And always report the strike to the power company; the strike may have broken insulators or weakened a wire that will drop later.
Lost stability due to terrain

At 3:15 p.m. on February 15, 2019, an employee was moving a Takeuchi Model TB007 Mini Excavator Serial # 1074544 down a ramp to the basement of a building to be stored. The equipment rolled over down the hill several times landing on the employee at the bottom of the ramp resulting in fatal injuries and bleeding. The equipment was not provided with roll over protection.

Self-inflicted tipping/rollover not caused by terrain
It's perfectly possible to rollover an excavator on flat ground without digging any holes.

At 11:00 a.m. on September 10, 2018, an employee was operating an excavator to move tree brush from the bottom of a hill to the top. While moving the load of brush up the hill, the employee moved the boom which cause the excavator to roll over onto its left side. The employee, who was seat belted into the cab of the excavator, hit his head on the roll over protection system frame as the roll over occurred. The employee was taken to a local hospital for treatment of a head laceration.

Pinned by ones own machine (not due to tipping/rollover)

At 3:30 p.m. on May 26, 2020, an employee was operating an excavator. At some point, the employee stuck their head out of the excavator cab while the cab rotated in close proximity to a tree. The employee's head was caught between the cab and the tree and crushed. The employee was killed by traumatic head injury.

At 11:15 a.m. on February 25, 2019, Employee #1 was operating a John Deere 225d excavator. The employee attempted to adjust the mirror on the excavator so that he could continue backing out of building to clear the doorway. He pulled the shut off lever and leaned out of the cab to fix the mirror. When he reengaged the safety shut off lever, he was inadvertently leaning against the joystick that rotates the cab. The employee was struck by and caught in between the excavator cab and the building's door opening. The employee used the joystick to rotate the cab back to the right, and freed himself. Employee #1 sustained three fractured vertebra and a broken collarbone. He was transported by ambulance to a nearby hospital and remained hospitalized for treatment.

Loading and unloading the excavator off the trailer
Needless to say, several accidents involved the operator trying to load or unload the excavator from the delivery trailer for highway transport.  Honestly, I forgot them because I was in the mentality of searching for accidents where the operator is in the cab.  But yeah, during load/unload, a lone worker can fall, get pinched e.g. have the unit shift on them, rollover while loading, or be tempted into "hold my beer" tricks of radical self-loading.

src
"What could possibly go wrong?"
(full disclosure, that last is actually a patented, engineered kit. The excavator has guide wings welded to frame and bucket. Once up top, it can move down the entire train of same-height cars, by expanding or contracting like a ... um... caterpillar.)


Well I took some time to try and find this fixture to see if it was listed and the voltage used and light source.
“Beautiful halo” appears to be at best a horrible company at worst a total scam company. So I would not do any mail order from them 620 reviews 565, 1 Star reviews and only 24, 5 star reviews.
Could this be done with a live growing plant? Yes this could be easily done with low voltage that is finger safe.  Voltages (you can touch the exposed conductors and not get shocked)  or line voltage with GFCI protection built in.
Today LED lamps could be in both options low voltage or GFCI protected. with only 6-9 watts of power consumed a fixture of that size may not feel much more than warm if that.
Wavelength of light 4500-7000K light spectrum would be good for vines or leaf growth. mix in some 2000-3000k LED’s and that would help with flowering so it is feasible it could be done safely and even get a listing.
As I mentioned swimming pools have wet niche light fixtures  and they are safe when properly installed plant light Fixture should be easy.
I would make sure it has a UL listing if being used in the US.
Not all stuff is safe or listed on the internet some just junk but if you purchase it at a brick and mortar store in the US you are usually safe as they can get in trouble for selling non listed equipment.


Can I vent a portable airco exhaust in the wall cavity?

Moist warm air  when it is exhausted behind enclosed walls (even slightly vented ones) have the potentially damaging effect of becoming condensate (water or moisture) if the temperature is cooler. Moisture is what mold spores need to thrive. Once they are established the colony can bloom and spread rampantly and unchecked out of sight. The health and safety hazards are well documented. A better solution for an exhaust for the portable air-conditioning unit to the outside is through the window. Open the window and measure the dimensions (L x W). Increase these numbers enough so that a piece of plywood overlaps  and fills the edges of the window opening. Cut a hole enough so that the exhaust vent can go through.


Why is my wiring a fire hazard when we have circuit breakers?

It's a lot like aviation.  "Little" code violations can stack up and interact to become big ones.   The electrical code is written in blood and ash, which is to say it's less about theory and more about actuarial analysis of accident patterns - pro and con.  For instance blown insulation around knob-and-tube wiring was banned, and is now being un-banned because better data showed it wasn't actually causing fires.

The dryer circuit sounds like the bog-standard typical 120/240V 30A dedicated circuit: both poles of hot, neutral and (we hope) safety ground.  Safety ground can be retrofitted using any viable path back to a grounded location (not a water pipe).  All 3 (non-ground) conductors appropriate to 30A, that means 10 AWG (rules don't allow you to run the wire at 90C thermal rating, so #12 is right out).

The washing machine circuit must necessarily be a different circuit from the dryer (since the dryer uses almost 80% of circuit capacity, and also, it's a different voltage). A few washers are designed to plug into partner dryers; these are popular in large complexes because it means one less circuit to the washer/dryer area.

You're correct that a 15A breaker "should" protect you, because it's small enough to protect wire as small as #14, the smallest permitted in US mains wiring.  However, that assumes everyone behaves properly, and that frequent trips don't bait someone into doing something stupid.   Sort of like the way you can cause accidents by getting on a section with 20 miles of no-passing zone and driving 5 under the speed limit -- it incites stupid people to do stupid things to get around you.  There's no accounting for stupidity in accident statistics.

For instance, plain overloads cause breakers to trip in thermal mode.  The breaker heats up in theory about as fast as the wall wiring does.  In practice, they cool off a lot faster than in-wall wires - especially if you hit them with canned air.  So if a person  resets the breaker over and over; the breaker cools off during off times, but the wires just keep getting hotter and hotter.

Both washing machine and kitchen countertop circuits are required to be 20A and dedicated.   You have a 15A circuit serving both loads, so you're bound to have overloads -- most kitchen appliances having anything to do with heat are 1500W (12.5 amps) because UL imposes a 1500W limit on such appliances.  That means so much as making toast with the washing machine running makes a trip likely.  Two kitchen appliances also overloads a 20A circuit, but with only a 25% overload (25A vs 20A) you may have enough time to make toast.


How can I dehumidify the bathroom while I shower, without using the ceiling fan?

They are feeling cold because the elderly feel drafts like crazy. Turning on the fan conveys hot humid air outside and that air gets replaced with air from the house which feels cool compared to the hot humid bathroom air.

It also feels cold when water evaporates off your body and if you are removing the humidity from the bathroom moisture evaporation on your body increases thus making you loose heat.

One option is to install a heating lamp or a new school equivalent. Btw I'm from Toronto ;-p

Here's a heat lamp exhaust fan
www.amazon.ca

With this type of unit additional wiring may need to be added.


B-vent condensation in large attic space

You could add a fiberglass pipe insulation to the flue pipe to keep the flue gasses hot enough to prevent them from condensing. I had the same problem with the vent from my water heater so I covered the "B" vent with 1-1/2" thick fiberglass pipe insulation. The flue gasses no longer condense and the flue works great.


How to tell if water pipes are grounded?

My cold water piping is bonded to the panel at the cold supply of the clothes washer. The hot piping is presumably electrically connected to the cold through the brass mixing valves of the shower and tub. There is negligible resistance between the cold and hot pipes at the washer supply valves.

Following Tyson's link I see my kitchen and lavatory faucets are not bonded because they are connected with non-conducting flexible supply lines; an ohmmeter test confirms this. I tested this by plugging an extension cord into an outlet and measuring the resistance between the ground of the cord and the point under test.


Extending a narrow high kitchen table with lateral side-wings

I'd build your wings and attach slide-in bars, along the lines of what's shown here. You could use hoop brackets instead of the horizontal bar running between the legs in this example, or go ahead and mount a 1x3 maple or birch board permanently under your table on each side. You could wrap it around three sides so it appears more like a conventional skirt.

image source

This gives you good support, plus you can remove and stow the wings where they won't impeded table use when not deployed.

Regarding stability, table symmetry is just part of the equation. Table contents and the upper body weight of those resting elbows on the table are probably more significant. However, as long as your table is well attached to the wall at the far end it should remain stable.


Appearance of this crack has nothing to do with foundation; it is something that you can see in many bathrooms. First check if both wall and bathtub are vertical, if they are not this crack will most likely appear from time to time (every year or so).Now, you can do one of two things: You can use silicone to glue it together. Keep in mind that silicone (or similar material) should be replaced every 6-12 months you will know when to change because black dots will start to appear. Another thing you can do is that you can put a rubber band and just glue it to both sides. Now this solution is more permanent (you don't need to change it so often) but if you ask me it's not that pretty. Now, foundation....since you did all that work maybe (if possible) you should give your house couple of months or a year to settle before you start doing anything.


Pulling 8 Gauge Wire, 1/2" Inch Conduit, for 150 Feet Difficulty?

There are rules on how much you can stuff in a conduit. Part of it is based on heat, but part is simply based on basic physics - you can only squeeze so much stuff into a small space. The rule in Chicago (or anywhere that uses (required or not) conduit) is not 1/2" conduit, it is conduit that is big enough for the job. Here is a table (there are many available, Google is your friend):
Conduit Fill Table
It clearly shows you can get 3 or 4 #12 or #14 circuits into a 1/2" conduit. But you can only get 3 #8 wires into a 1/2" conduit, and that is if there is nothing else in the conduit.
The only practical options are:

Remove everything else and run just the #8 in the 1/2" conduit to a subpanel and connect everything that was connected directly instead to that subpanel. Note though that the #8 wires may not be big enough for a proper subpanel for both your heater and all the existing circuits, and according to the table I linked, you can't bump up to #6. But it does avoid new conduit.
Run a new conduit. To avoid being maxed out immediately, go up to at least 3/4", maybe even 1", so that you can add more circuits and/or upsize the wires later.

As noted in another answer, #8 wire isn't big enough. You could get 2 #6 in there to run a heater, but then you couldn't run a subpanel (because you wouldn't have a neutral). End result: New, larger, conduit.


Is it acceptable to use a lighted switch with a switched outlet?

I see no problem with installing an indicator type one pole switch to control a receptacle.


Can I plug a multi-outlet adapter into a GFCI outlet?

You can absolutely plug in an extension cord to the GFCI outlet, and as long as the GFCI outlet was wired correctly, the GFCI protection extends to all the devices plugged into it.

However, I would advise you to stay away from this kind of multi outlet adapter, since it might cover the GFCI buttons making it harder to test and reset:


Shower Handle Replacement: Pull-out to Lever-out

You won't be able to operate your existing cartridge in a lifting up or down, back and forth motion to start or stop the flow of water. Your cartridge's motion is strictly in and out on a straight plane. It will rotate clockwise and counter clockwise to adjust the temperature. If you did find a handle that fit, you'd have to pull the handle straight out to start the flow and push it straight in to stop the flow. You'd need a cartridge that has a stem that moves back and forth and also turns clockwise and counterclockwise. They don't make one that will fit in your faucet. You'll have to replace your faucet if this will keep you up at night thinking about it.


How do I prepare concrete walls before applying water-dispersion paint?

More coats of primer might have done the trick. Paints have different levels of coverage/opacity.

If you wanted to even out the texture, that is harder; maybe some sort of skim coat over the entire wall, to unify it? Or pre-paint/joint compound/etc. over just the areas that were chipped.

I don't know whether you can add additional layers over your existing paint; the can may give more info about overcoats.


What are pros and cons of magnetic and mechanical door latch?

The magnetic ones are simpler imho, and don’t have so much to catch a sleeve on. Also, the tongue on the mechanical one can deform over time.


Do these materials typically contain asbestos?

I've bricked a few steel heat treating furnaces with asbestos bricks but never heard of asbestos mortar so I'd guess your safe there. It's crumbling a bit because it wasn't finished off correctly because it was in the attic. As far as the plaster, doesn't hurt to have it checked.


How can I protect the soleplate when framing basement walls?

Any framing that directly contacts concrete should be pressure treated. So option 3. Sealing is an optimistic concept at best, .vs. ensuring that there is proper drainage outside the basement, but you could certainly put construction adhesive on the bottom of the soleplate, it won't hurt.


Do I need teflon tape (or something else) for a plastic shower head?

Most shower heads seal to the shower arm using a rubber washer. If that's the case with yours, the purpose of the threads is more to hold the washer tight, not provide a seal, and teflon tape or thread sealant compound are not useful.


What type of latch should I use for a sliding gate?

Could you just use a normal auto-closing latch (a la http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Black-Gate-Latch-15462/202042227?N=5yc1vZc2e2) and mount it so the gate slides the latch into place?


What is the best way to cut this PVC line in a hot tub?

I can see your predicament: cut it all or nothing. It is possible to remove PVC pipe that has been welded into a fitting. I've sawed out pipe sections from slip valves and re-glued the valve with no leaks. It's an extreme last ditch effort, but I don't see any other way other than cutting the entire manifold out . Hopefully some one else will see an easier way. Here's how I'd do it:   Looking at your first photo, the short length of pipe as it enters the 45, can be cut half-way up the hub  so that half of the connection is left (left on the 'Tee and short pipe stub). This will free one end of the housing. The amputated 45 sleeve attached to the pipe that is the inlet can be section with a saw and should peel off with pliers a segment at a time.  The outlet at the 45 and housing connection; the same can be done. This will free the housing. At the 45 you will have to cut segments into the still glued pipe. A hacksaw blade works well. Cut a minimum of 6-8 segments around the inside pipe and only cut the pipe not the fitting hub it is glued to. The more segments you cut the less chance of cracking the fitting when removing the pipe and the easier it is to remove. A quick blast with a heat gun to soften the PVC helps.   If you are successful you'll only have some minor saw marks after the pipe is removed. They won't affect the seal once new sections are glued. Use primer and "Hot" (blue) glue when installing new pipe.


Is there a way to remove the warp in plywood?

Most corespondents are right in that the warp is caused by an imbalance of moisture. The problem has little or nothing to do with the type of store from which it was bought because even if it was absolutely flat in the store if you store it incorrectly when you get it home it will warp. This is especially true if you stand it upright anywhere near a radiator or other heat source.

What happens is the side nearest the heat source drys out too quickly causing the wood to shrink on that side resulting in a 'bow' or 'warp'

Now the thing is to rebalance the moisture content. This is accomplished by wetting the CONCAVE side (hot water works best) then laying the board CONCAVE side down and applying weights to flatten the board. The 'wetted' side will expand as moisture is absorbed on that side and the board will flatten. Some people like to apply heat to the CONVEX side. This will certainly speed up the process but you have to be careful not to cause the warp to reverse. Check the process from time to time. As soon as the flatness you want is achieved store the board flat. It is usual to 'condition' newly purchased material for at least 48-hours in the environment in which it is going to be used, before cutting and fixing. Hope this makes sense.
Albatross


Hot water in showers gets very hot when other hot water is turned on

Pure speculation ahead...

Lets say you have low water pressure or a flow restriction.  Normally, when you turn on the hot water, there's plenty of excess pressure to still provide the same amount of cold water.

If turning on two hot water valves is using almost all of your pressure/flow, the pressure might not be enough to provide the same amount of cold water. If you have two hot valves open wide, and one cold valve only 1/3 open or so, the water's going to take the path of least resistance, and cold flow will reduce.  In fact, pressure/flow is reduced everywhere, but is more noticeable on the cold.

So what do you do with that?  Check your water pressure.  Make sure the valve on your water meter is open all the way.  Compare flow from different faucets and see how they compare, etc.


Does turning circuit breakers off cause wear?

As ChrisF mentions, any mechanical device causes some wear when it operates. With that said, let us start by checking with the National Electrical Code (NEC).

  NEC 2011
  404.11 Circuit Breakers as Switches. A hand-operable circuit breaker equipped with a lever or handle, or a power-operated circuit
  breaker capable of being opened by hand in the event of a power
  failure, shall be permitted to serve as a switch if it has the
  required number of poles.

  Informational Note: See the provisions contained in 240.81 and 240.83.

So according to the NEC, circuit breakers can be used as switches with some provisions.

  240.81 Indicating. Circuit breakers shall clearly indicate whether they are in the open “off” or closed “on” position. Where circuit
  breaker handles are operated vertically rather than rotationally or
  horizontally, the “up” position of the handle shall be the “on”
  position.

  240.83 Marking. (D) Used as Switches. Circuit breakers used as switches in 120-volt and 277-volt fluorescent lighting circuits shall
  be listed and shall be marked SWD or HID. Circuit breakers used as
  switches in high-intensity discharge lighting circuits shall be listed
  and shall be marked as HID.

If the circuit breaker clearly indicates the "on" and "off" position ("on" being up in vertically oriented situations), and the breaker is labeled "SWD" and/or "HID". Then the circuit breaker can be used as a switch, as far as NEC is concerned.

As for whether or not using a circuit breaker in this way causes damage to the circuit breaker, we'll look to the NEC's definition of a circuit breaker.

  Circuit Breaker. A device designed to open and close a circuit by nonautomatic means and to open the circuit automatically on a
  predetermined overcurrent without damage to itself when properly
  applied within its rating.

Notice it specifically mentions "without damage to itself". So in the eyes of the NEC. A device used manually or automatically to open a circuit that causes damage to itself, can not be used as a circuit breaker.

More evidence is provided in this pdf document from Schneider Electric describing the markings on a circuit breaker.

  4.) SWD – 15- or 20-A circuit breakers rated 347 V or less may be marked “SWD,” meaning that they are suitable for switching fluorescent
  lighting loads on a regular basis (NEC 240.83(D)). These circuit
  breakers are evaluated for high endurance use, since they will be used
  similar to a light switch.

  5.) HID – 50 A or less circuit breakers rated 480 V or less may be marked “HID,” meaning they are suitable for switching high intensity
  discharge or fluorescent lighting loads on a regular basis. These
  circuit breakers may employ a different construction than a standard
  SWD circuit breaker in order to address the high inrush current
  resulting from the lower power factor created by the HID lighting (NEC
  240.83(D)). These circuit breakers also undergo additional endurance evaluation to demonstrate their ability to perform the switching duty.

While the information presented here, is based on information that may only pertain to the United States.  Other countries will have similar rule and markings, to indicate which devices can be used safely in different situations.  Circuit breakers rated for this use are tested for durability similarly to switches, and can safely be used to manually open and close a circuit without too much wear and tear.


Hardwood Flooring Direction on Older Subfloor

From a purely structural point of view, it doesn't matter. As long as the subfloor is properly designed and installed, it is carrying the load, so you can install the hardwood planks in any direction you choose.


The safety valve on boiler is really noisy

Sounds like calcium buildup on the valve gates. You might be able to clean it adequately, if you already have the ability to replace it.

If the springs were bad, I think you'd notice backflow leakage.


Sounds like you have modern wiring so it should be pretty straightforward.  The /3 cable is delivering neutral, always-hot and switched-hot (presumably red) to the switch.

You come off the switch with /2, white to the white in the switch box, and black to the switch terminal which now has red.  (if you want the receptacle to remain switched, you could pigtail the red, new black and the switch together.)

Then up to your light.  You're pretty much done at that point.

If you do not want the receptacle to be switched anymore, then pull the red wire off both ends and cap it with a yellow wire nut, add tape otherwise the wire nut will fall off.  Push it into the back of the box in case the next homeowner finds a use for it.  Then change the receptacle to a new one.  The old one had a tab broken off between hot terminals, you need that tab restored.  Or you could pigtail both hot terminals if you want to.  Whichever is easier.


Generac Generator with Carrier Infinity Heat Pumps

I worry your service might be much larger than your generator

Since I hear you are in the snowbelt, and have oil for heat only (never heard of an oil fired water heater or range), and 2 x 50A circuits just for the emergency heat (24kw right there) -- I'm worried that your house may be set up as an "All Electric Home".  What's often done in the snowbelt is to supply the house 400A service (aka 320A service) - commonly as two 200A panels side by side.  One panel entirely for the heat pump and emergency heat, and the other panel for "everything else".

If so, a 23KW whole house generator will be totally inadequate to cover the entire house.  Even the transfer switch will be expensive at 400A. I don't know what you have or what your loads are, but straight-up, 400A is 100kw. Even after removing the emergency heat from the picture, your other electric appliances can also overwhelm the generator.   You will need a lot of load-shed circuits, or a much bigger generator.  A 23kw generator is appropriate for a 100A house.

If my theory is correct, and you haven't said, then I'd say that one of us is missing something fairly significant about the discussion with the generator salesman. Perhaps the salesman has sold you something that hits your price point, and is indifferent to the actual usability of what results.... it may take months or years to uncover any deficiencies, by which time they gotcher money.

Load shed is the same basic tech

Regardless of utility or generator, the mechanics of shedding load are the same - either a big contactor that disconnects the load, or say, heat or A/C can be shed by manipulating the 24V thermostat lines; intercepting the thermostat's "call for heat" or "call for A/C".  That also allows the furnace and A/C to sequence itself normally if that matters to the unit, such as preventing short cycles.

So what's the business about A/C being sheddable and not heat? That's the power company talking, and they have a different business agenda than you.  The fact is, power demand goes up and down, and the grid must cope with this by spinning up and shutting down very large 50+ megawatt generators. 200MW coal plants and 1000MW nukes Do Not Like to be idled, so it falls to more expensive generators to be "peaking units", typically gas turbines or diesel engines.  Solar just happens to be a fabulous peaker.  Because the highest peaks all year are in summer afternoons, and the main component is air conditioning caused by solar load.

The power company wants to shave peaks any way they can, so they can build fewer peaking stations. (they're expensive; it's not just the $ per W, it's that the mortgage must be paid everyday even though they only run 27 afternoons a year!) Therefore they are interested in shedding peak loads - air conditioning!   They couldn't care less about shedding heating load, because that doesn't occur at peak times.

So the switching hardware that the power company uses can work for your generator, but the decisions of when to shed load need to be switched when you switch power source.  When on utility, the power company should decide when to shed A/C.   When on generator, the generator's control  system should decide when to shed A/C, water heater, range, electric heat, etc.

ThreePhaseEel says there are some implementation challenges in designing load sheds that work for all modes.  Ok.  However most thermostats are very simple creatures, and it should be possible somehow.  However this may be a "bridge too far" for a COTS (commercial off the shelf) system.  Mind you a thermostat interrupt may not shed load instantly on demand, if the furnace controller wants to run awhile longer to avoid a short-cycle etc.

Elegant design goes far

You may have gathered that simply brute-force attaching a generator to an all-electric home is a hard undertaking.  It helps quite a lot if the house can be "designed to be off-grid" by elegant choices in design and appliances.

A great example of this (requires propane or methane, not oil) is the "Empire style" wall furnace.  This unit requires no electricity whatsoever so it licks the problem of pipes freezing, without even needing to start a generator. The double-wall version is a 50,000 BTU brute, which is the equivalent of about 15,000 watts (60A) of emergency heat.  This machine is only sold in places like California, and is unobtanium anywhere in the rust belt, which makes no sense whatsoever.

This is an "Achilles' Heel" of almost every heating system in rust-belt homes: they all are designed to require active pumping to circulate heat or cool around the house.  They must pump fluid to radiators or mini-split heads, or forced air. This requires far too much non-thermal power, and makes "your pipes not freezing" totally dependent on large amounts of electricity.  (it's even a bit much for solar, especially in winter when you really need it, since you may not be there to broom snow off the collectors).

They come in other form factors, including direct-vent through-the-sidewall types.  They completely work on passive convection, so smart placement of the furnaces is essential so heat will be circulated around the house.  They use external "millivolt" thermostats, but can also be operated with a relay from a 24V thermostat, and can use both methods at once.  So for instance one might set the millivolt thermostat for 50 degrees F, so it only calls for heat if the 24V thermostat system has totally failed due to power out and the house has chilled. Now your generator has less load, and is not as critical.

Of course anything you can do to make a big electric appliance "not electric" also helps ease generator load.  At extremes, a house could be engineered so onsite solar panels could keep the house entirely livable and fully functional with grid power lost.  But in your case, I would focus on that very, very hungry emergency heat.   Two big Empire furnaces (or several smaller ones) would go far to assure your house can't freeze.


I screwed up with my Kwikset lock during rekeying

There is a way to fix it.  You need to essentially disassemble the lock and line the pins up.  Here's a video explaining how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQjXl78DdUA


Can i use butyl caulk on a shower drain?

I can't locate the installation instructions for that particular model, but it does appear that the gasket is intended to go underneath the pan. If the manufacturer has a recommendation, I'd obviously use that. If that's the case, I'd go with plumbers putty as opposed to butyl caulk for a couple reasons.

First, butyl caulk isn't particularly dimensionally stable - that is, it will have a tendency to shrink over time. Second, it is incredibly difficult to clean up. That means if lay you down a bead of butyl and then clamp the the flange over it you will force some out onto the floor of the pan (and if you don't, you didn't put enough on).

What you'd likely end up with is a mess that you might not be able to clean up without damaging the finish on pan itself with the solvents you'd need to get the stuff off.  Silicone, on the other hand, will generally just peel away or come off with light friction (like rubbing it really hard with your thumb), and plumber's putty doesn't really "stick" so it's the easiest to clean up after.

Finally, the last reason I'd steer away from butyl is that it usually takes a long time to fully cure (the last one I used was labelled as 7 days to a full set).  This is fine in a gutter where you don't have people walking on it, but probably less so in a shower unless you're willing to sit it out.

Plumber's putty is specifically made for this type of application, and it's so cheap that it really doesn't make a lot of sense to go through the potential hassle to avoid spending a dollar or two just to use up a tube of butyl that you have lying around. The gasket on bottom is doing the majority of the work anyway - about all the seal on the top does is stop water from standing inside the cutout on top of the gasket.


Will a French Drain on the outside of a house keep water out of a crawlspace?

Cinder blocks are quite porous. To keep a basement or crawl space dry means keeping subterranean water (water table) and surface water off the foundation wall.

Where I live we have a water table at about -24". The only way we can keep basements or crawl spaces dry is to: 1) install a 4"-6" perf pipe about 6"-8" BELOW the basement slab or crawl space, 2) encapsulate the pipe in drainrock (round 3" minus rock without fines), 3) extending the drainrock to within 6" or so of the ground surface so any water trying to "build-up" against the wall, will be drained down to the perp pipe and carried away, and 4) waterproof (coat) the foundation wall to keep surface water from penetrating the wall.

Sometimes we'll wrap the drainrock with filter fabric, depending on the soil. Make sure the perf pipe extends to a drainage swale and we don't connect roof drains into the perf pipe...we extend the roof drains (in a solid pipe) to a drainage swale too. We also add a 1/2" protection board (inert cement board) on top of the wall coating, so when the drainrocks are dumped in, they don't damage the coating.

This system works, unless you are located next to a large hill where the water table "up the mountain" can "push" pressure on the water table under your house. Then, it will cause the water table to rise UNDER the house. To fix this, we run french drains about 10' on center under the house...very expensive.


What is the best plastic to make a see through 'whiteboard' with?

Markee Dry-Erase Paint is clear, so it won't even look like you've got a dry erase surface at all. You may want to put up an outline though, since I could see running off the edge of the painted surface being a problem. It's also a bit pricey, at $59/quart or $127/gal. (I haven't used this product myself, so no guarantees on how well it works.)

Another option is Opti-White dry erase film, also in clear. It's $26/ft for a 5' wide sheet. (So a 3'x5' sheet will run you $78 - it would be cheaper to go with the paint-on option, unless you don't want to deal with the mess.)

If you want to go the 'board' route instead of a wall covering, you could try Lexan. It's fairly lightweight and you should be able to get it at most home improvement stores. Lowes has it for about $70 for a 3'x4' sheet.


How can I determine if it's safe to remove this beam in my garage?

From studying your picture it appears to me that the timber is intended to tie one wall to the other. If so, I would be asking why. A couple of clues I would look for are:

Is the height of the placement of the timber, on each end, possibly where the top plates of the framed wall are, behind the drywall?  ( As opposed to the studs inside the wall running from the floor plate all the way up to the roof rafters.) If so, this connection between lower studs and upper studs could be a weak area for lateral wind loads to cause some unwanted flexing of one of the walls.
You mentioned your front door was on the other side. Is it possible that the front door wall, beyond, is located in a sturdier wall that has sufficient bracing and the timber in your garage is using the strength of that wall to tie the opposite garage wall into something more stable. If that opposite garage wall is an exterior wall subject to wind I would think that might be the case.

There are some DIY things you can do to experiment with it a little bit. Try flexing the timber back and forth to see if one wall stays rigid but the other moves just a tiny bit. If so, that would indicate that the wall that moved needs that timber.

A good framing carpenter ( think This Old House) could probably access your situation adequately. Maybe for free if it is easily apparent to them what is going on and they can give you an estimate for any modifications that would enable you to remove the timber.

Hope this helps. Good luck!


How to attach a blind to a wall when I need extra clearance?

This may be barely more than a suggestion but I'll post it as an answer.
Rather than make little 1cm blocks, I'd use a strip of wood about 1cm x 2cm the same length as the blind's width.  You could buy a piece of molding or trim that's right, or rip a strip off a scrap of wood, or etc.
This way you can attach that strip to the frame at spots that aren't right behind the mounting brackets for the blind, and the screws won't interfere with one another.  Plus it will be quite a bit stronger and probably a better finished appearance.


Gap between sash frame and pane of single-hung window sash - DIY-able?

Is it DIYable? Yes. No. Maybe?

You may find that you start the job, everything works out just right, and you complete the work in record time and under budget.  More likely, you'll run into a bunch of unforeseen problems, take 5 times as long as you'd expect, and end up way over budget.

The best way to tackle DIY work that you are not sure about, is to have the resources available to quickly fix mistakes.  In your situation, it might be a good idea to purchase a replacement window before you begin. If you damage the old window beyond repair, you'll simply have to install the new one. On the other hand, if the repair works out, you can return the new window you purchased.

It also never hurts to have somebody with knowledge in the type of work you're doing, so if you run into trouble they can offer guidance.

If you come across something you are really not comfortable with, there are always professionals available to do the work for you. You might also be surprised that they charge less than you might think (not always the case, but does happen).


Why is this switch box wired like a 3-way when there's no other switch?

Your switch only has 2 wires going to it. The black is most likely the hot and the red is the switched hot.this is not unusual. The box looks to be metal so it is probably acting as the ground through the conduit. I am not sure why you think it is a 3 way.


Nope, no good.
The right thing to do in this situation is not to just omit the equipment ground wire from the four-wire receptacle as if it was optional.  It will operate, but it will not be code compliant, and it won't be as safe as it could or should be.  That wire is after all the safety ground.
If you aren't prepared to run a ground wire for the circuit, the right thing to do in this situation is use the three-wire receptacle, and change the appliance cord to a three-wire, making the connections inside according to the manufacturer's instructions for a three-wire cord.  It's a simple fix, easy, inexpensive, code compliant, and reasonably safe.  There are literally millions of ranges and dryers installed this way in older homes in the US.
With most ranges and dryers, the instructions will show how to connect your cord if you're using a receptacle without an equipment ground.  The connection generally bonds the neutral to the frame of the appliance.  While this is not quite as safe as a four-wire circuit wired with an equipment ground, it does provide protection / fault clearing in case of an internal ground fault in the appliance.  Here's an example:

from a power company handout.
If you have a four wire cord with the usual four-wire connections inside the appliance, but the equipment ground goes nowhere in that receptacle, you have no fault clearing for those internal ground faults, which is potentially dangerous.
If someone knew what they were doing, I suppose they could use a four-wire cord with a four-wire receptacle that has no equipment ground, but bond neutral to ground inside the appliance like you would with a three-wire cord.  You would have the same fault-clearing you'd have with a three wire cord.  But that's still a bad idea.  For one thing, if anyone ever corrects the wiring of the receptacle, but assumes the appliance is wired normally - a reasonable assumption - they will not remove the bond / jumper inside, and it will create a dangerous configuration where you have unwanted current on the equipment ground.  But if they know what they're doing, wouldn't they just do it the right way?
In addition, since the instructions for the four-wire receptacle don't make that equipment ground optional, it's a code violation to install the receptacle without the ground.  Even if it was not a code violation, it's a common sense violation.  When someone sees a NEMA 14-50R it's reasonable for them to assume there's an equipment ground, and if they plug in equipment wired for that equipment ground, they will unknowingly create an unsafe situation.


What it is this thing above the ceiling?

Looks like a plenum return to me, especially since you said there's a ceiling grill into this area. Basically the false ceiling is acting as part of the ductwork. Very common in commercial buildings, less so in residential... but not at all unreasonable.


Samsung induction slide in oven makes whining and whistling noise

You say when on Bake - is it a convection oven ?

I have a slide in Samsung Induction Stove / Oven.

So I want to be sure of what you are describing - only when the oven is operating or are you using the cook top at the same time ?

Depending on your answer I will give you a couple possibilities.

1: The induction cooktops can make a noise while cooking - you will
notice this when it gets hot you can hear a whine and a whir (like a
zzzzzrr) sound .

2: The Fan in the rear of the oven (its the circulation fan) the
bearings fail! I know I replaced mine after 1 year - many others
have also.

  Will it hurt anything is it dangerous not to fix it right away:

  Depends on if you like your cake and your foods thoroughly cooked or
  on the raw side. And also on How Long you want it to take to preheat
  to the right temperature.

How this oven works: During preheat all fans run to circulate the air, all elements are on to heat up quickly - upon reaching temperature the oven converts to the mode of operation you have selected whether that is bake or convection etc..

Now if the fan is failing - the oven will start to take longer and longer to get up to temperature - also opening the door the temperature will drop and not recover quickly.

One thing to do is use a manual oven thermometer and place it inside your oven - watch what temperature it gets to - it might claim it is hot enough in the beginning because the temp probe is right next to the Broiler Element up top. NICE - it measures the radiated heat from that burner, not the oven temp - so you get a claim it is at temp. Open the door and the temp will drop - since the broiler element does not come back on at that moment - well long time heating back up.

The Fan is simple to replace - get an after market one - my after market one has been in for 2 years now and so far the thing works - but we also do not run the self cleaning or broiler - high temperatures might damage the fan bearings or the lube in those bearings. Personally this oven is the worst I have ever owned. I love the induction stuff - but other manufacturers have more flexibility and are not as finnicky about the pans. We have Caphalon Stainless Steel. Not clad bottoms.


First identify your switch leg. Turn off the power and disconnect the red and black wires and put wirenuts on the ends of them. Then turn the power back on using a non conducting power indicator, test the black and red for the wire that is permanently on. Then turning the switch off and on, identify the switch leg. Once you have done that then you know your wiring is connected properly to the box.

Now turn the power back off and reconnect the permanently hot conductor back to the receptacle. Check to see if only one part of the receptacle is working. If only one is working, kill power and connect the switch leg to the other side of the receptacle and verify it is correct.

Point being, you have isolated the problem to either the wiring or the receptacle and either one or the other is incorrect. If it's the receptacle then I would just replace it. If it's the wiring you may have to start tracing backwards to the switch.

Good luck


How to stack a portable countertop / tabletop Dishwasher on top of a front load washing machine?

This can definitely be done, although the way I did it was to create a countertop over the washing machine, boxing in the washing machine, (the same as any countertop you would normally sit the tabletop dishwasher) thereby making them separate entities.
All that needed to be done was to drill a fair sized hole for the pipes and cables to fit through the countertop behind the dishwasher, not visible, and the dishwasher can come forward to be flush with the countertop. It is never going to topple over, why would it, it's only the door that will venture out  and that won't topple it. (I have a Bosch countertop dishwasher, and it has never ever unbalanced) I'm even considering boxing in the dishwasher so that the microwave can sit on top. (I don't have any cabinets above, to get in the way.) and I can reach it quite easily, like an eye level oven.
The only thing that may be a safety issue is if all appliances are sharing one outlet. I would make sure they each had their own  so as not to overload it. Overall, it has worked for me and it's all next to the kitchen sink so the plumbing is all in one place, nice and tidy.


Almost perfectly flat Chair Lug Terminal

I understand that the StackExchange is not a product recommendation service, which sort of invalidates your question for a specific brand.

A quick search of ground lugs returns many results of rectangular shaped lugs identical to the one in the photo you've provided as well as a few variations. If the one in the photo does not have a perfect flat bottom, one might expect that it would flatten under the force applied by the bolt through the hole in the tab.

Alternatively, one might expect that the application for which this product is designed takes the non-flat aspect into consideration and allows that the surface area which will make contact is sufficient for the level of current expected for this product.

If your application is non-compliant with these factors, consider that you may not wish to use this specific product.

If it is necessary to absolute flatness, filing, sanding, grinding or machining may provide the results to match your requirements.


Has anyone here ever rented a trencher? What was your experience?

A power trencher, or Ditch Witch, is a fairly easy machine to use. Most are self propelled. You may check some local rental stores as well as HD, as you will probably need a trailer to transport the machine and most rental stores include it in the price.

Before you attempt to use one of these monsters, be absolutely sure to call DIG SAFE @ 1800-digsafe. You must have the utility companies come and certify that there are no buried lines, wires, gas etc.  It is the law, so don't forget to get it done. There is no charge for this service. If you don't and hit something, you can be liable for huge costs and fines.

A Ditch Witch usually only digs a narrow path for laying wire or pipe. The path width would be a bit shy for a good drainage system as you will not have enough width to add the proper crushed stone base and surrounding gravel bed etc.

Assuming you are installing wire or pipe, be sure to get some warning tape to install a few inches below the ground grade to warn future excavations that utilities are buried benieth.  Good Luck.


Length of insulated copper line set for a central air conditioner

It depends on the specific unit. Some mini-splits I've looked at can do 50 feet (tube length), and 30 feet of elevation difference. What your specific unit can have depends on your specific unit.


Will a 6x6x16 pressure treated lumber be okay for a play structure with a single super swing

A swing frame  must be very rigid or the energy put into the swing gets sapped, causing it to quickly lose momentum. This is why you rarely see swings on posts. I'd stick with a proven design, the A frame. If you really must use vertical posts, go at least 3 feet down. With 10 feet above ground the torque will be quite strong.

Interior diagonal braces effectively reduce your beam span. You could easily cut 3 feet from each side, leaving 10. I'd trust a select 6x6 to span that just fine. The braces must be securely fastened, though. I'd consider mortising them into the beam and posts.


In the UK, how do I run wiring from indoors onto a balcony for a light?

The Building Regulations (which determine whether work is notifiable or not) vary according to England, Wales, Scotland or Northern Ireland. Notifiable work must be notified to the local authority, either by a Building Regulations application or an electrician who is a member of a scheme which allows members to self-certify and register their work. Anyone can carry out electrical work; it is only a requirement to notify the work that may apply.

The latest version of Part P for England and Wales was introduced on 6 April 2013, the range of works requiring notification has been reduced.

  Notifiable works are:

  The installation of a new circuit
  The replacement of a consumer unit
  Any addition or alteration to an existing circuit in a special location (bathroom, swimming pool or sauna)

  All other work is considered non-notifiable, namely additions and
  alterations to existing installations outside special locations,
  maintenance, replacement and repair work.

Part P England and Wales - Frequently Asked Questions

See also Approved Document P: Electrical safety - Dwellings (2013 edition) (PDF 2.33 Mb)

Other Building Regulations also apply, including Energy Efficiency - you may not be able to install a high-power halogen light.

You should use a fused connection unit adjacent to the power socket. It is your choice whether to include a switch or not, but it would probably be advisable.
You should use an appropriate cable for external use, such as NYY-J or "Hituff" cable. This can be run on the outside on the wall without conduit, provided it is not going to be subject to physical damage (so if it is running near ground level it may require a protective conduit or cover). It is available per metre from some electrical suppliers, including TLC

You may require a weatherproof junction box and glands on the outside to connect between the light fitting and the circuit wiring.

Note that the latest Amendment to the Wiring Regulations now requires all wiring to have sufficient metallic fixings that the wiring remains sufficiently supported in the event of a fire. This does not mean that every fixing must be metallic, and short lengths of wiring may not need any.

You do not require a switch on the outside.
The Ip rating depends on whether the light may be exposed to any form of jet washing.

  The minimum IP rating you should look for in a garden light is IPX3
  (normally IP43), which protects against rain or spraying water at a
  60° angle from vertical. Choose an IPX4 (normally IP44) rating for
  exposed areas.

IP Ratings – A brief guide to Waterproof Lighting

This answer is not a complete guide to how to install an outside light. Good workmanship is required.


These are constant current LED luminaires which must be matched to a specific driver circuit, which is the thing you call a "transformer" which was bundled with them.  It has the capacity to drive one LED luminaire. That gives you no choice in the matter.  Each luminaire must be used with a matching driver module.

It's as simple as that.

The good news is these luminaires appear to be "dumb" with no electronic components onboard, that's why they need such a particular driver.   Electronics tend to fail not LEDs proper, so you won't have to replace the luminaire, only the driver.

18 AWG intercom/thermostat wire should suffice if you need a longer run between luminaire and driver.  Thinner wire isn't really any cheaper, as this size benefits from economies of scale.

Now, what about using a different LED driver so you don't have 10 driver modules?

Being dumb LED emitters without onboard electronics, their spec is very clear that they must be driven constant-current.   The only sane way to drive multiple loads constant-current is with series wiring.

In series wiring, current is exactly the same through each device, but voltages add.  Current will be 320ma, or 0-320ma if you want to dim them without PWM.   Voltage will be 20-30V x 10, or 200-300V.

Here's the problem. As a practical thing, that's a really goofy spec for a driver. I don't think you'll find one on the market.  I could be wrong.

Also you're dealing with rather high voltages.  THWN or NM cable will suffice, but they no longer qualify as "low voltage" under NEC rules.  You'll need to follow all the formalities of proper Code wiring, and may run afoul of rules pertaining to voltages over 250V.

Also, DC voltage that high is one nasty piece of work.  It is as aggressive as AC power 10 times its voltage, indeed, many switch and relay makers derate 80-90% for DC.   You will not find a switch which will interrupt it without arcing, short of the spring-action "snap switches" used in very old homes (being vestiges of the DC age).  Once it starts to arc, it will not know pity or remorse or fear and will not stop unless killed.  The driver would contain it to 320ma, but you'd want arc fault detection in the driver.   I would at least want to run that in steel conduit.


First time ceiling fan installation wiring issue

This is conduit. Everything's different.

All the literature you have read on the Internet talks about cables in the walls installations. In that case, you are married to the standard wire colors in cables - Black Red White Bare.

Here, you have a network of piping called "conduit" and individual wires in the pipes.  This is a highly competent job.  The house was supplied with no fixture, but they left you enough length on the "neutral" to add one.

The wires are able to be any sensible color instead of being married to the colors built into cable.  Here you have

White as neutral (neutrals must be white or gray).
Red is surely your "always-hot", but it doesn't come to the ceiling. If you need always-hot here, then add a wire to that pipe from the switch, and grab it at the switch.
Orange is another half of a multi-wire branch circuit.  Do not mess with it.
Yellow is your "switched-hot" from the switch to the lamp.

It's easy to add wires to a pipe.

Where did ground go?

This installation uses non-flexible metal conduit, and that is allowed to be your ground path.  I have 4 buildings that look exactly like this; this is normal.

Switches and lamps can be grounded right through the mounting screws.   Receptacles cannot; search for a question on "how to ground a receptacle in metal conduit" as it's complicated.

Simple installation

Cut the white wire at the halfway point.  Splice it to the neutral from the fan/lamp.

Splice the yellow to the hot(s) from the fan/lamp.

Now the switch turns the fan/lamp on/off.  Presumably speed control and lamp vs fan select is on the fan itself?

Complex installation

Open up the switch box.  You will see a pipe leaving it with a red, yellow and white wire.  Tug on the white wire and see if it moves in the ceiling box.  That's the pipe!

Shoot us a picture of what's going on inside that box, and get back to us.


What is the standard 120V light bulb screw base in the US?

The US 120 volt screw base is an E26. The 'E' indicates an Edison screw base and 26 is the diameter in millimeters.

Source: Wikipedia (footnote 3)

  In 120-volt North America and 100-volt Japan, the standard size for general-purpose lamps is E26


AFCI breaker trips when GFCI receptable's test button is pressed

I will post an answer as I believe others will run into similar problem.

The issue is that the wiring has neutral wires from multiple circuits connected together. While this works with older breakers. It will not work with newer AFCI breaker. The solution is to clean up the wiring such that the hot and neutral pairs are isolated to individual breakers and not mixed with other breakers.


In residential interior wiring, voltage irregularities generally are only a concern when over-voltages are seen and not under-voltages.  Incidentally however, when there is an under-voltage, there is usually an over-voltage on the opposite phase somewhere else to balance it out.

113V is fine. Light bulbs, except for the LEDs, are pure resistive loads and will not burn up from under-voltages. Now 130V would be a problem if the bulb is not rated for 130V.

I would also consider hiring a different electrician as what he suggested is nonsense.


If the blower is running nonstop, then there's likely a open limit (probably high limit).

If this is a high efficiency unit, and the draft inducer is running continuously before the unit shuts down (lockout). It's likely a problem with the exhaust piping, or a bad pressure switch.

Without knowing exactly what's happening, it's difficult to explain how to troubleshoot.


Fixing suitable for corrugated conduit inside a chased masonary wall and suitable clips?

The 2017 NEC article 362.10.1.B allows flexible non metallic conduit (smurf tube) concealed in walls floors and ceilings.
362.30.A securely fastened every 3 feet.
Zip tie anchors are even allowed code added a statement that the zip tie had to be listed for securing and supporting (my state deletes this because this is what a zip tie is for). I usually purchase a bag of plastic clamps that are held in with a nail or screws if 1 hole at the start and end of a run I will use 2 one on each side so when fishing the wire through it it won’t pull lose from the clamps and on the inside radius of any unsupported turn when the wires pull tight if the clamp is on the outside it can pull out on occasion if the wall is closed you may not even notice it.


Why is the upstairs a lot hotter in a 2 story duplex?

Since hot rises, upper stories will tend to be warmer unless the design of your air conditioning system properly compensates for it.    An energy audit, as mentioned in the comments by @mikes will tell you if you have any reasons for heat gain that may be correctable.

Assuming you have a single thermostat that controls a unit that supplies both levels, here are some other factors to consider:

Make sure you have a clean filter.   A dirty filter will lower the overall efficiency of the unit.
Make sure that supply and return ducts are open on the upper floor; it's possible that supply ducts were closed during heating season due to excess heat in that area; return ducts may be blocked by furniture.
Check for dampers in the ductwork that leads to the upstairs.   It's possible that flow to the upper level was restricted to balance the system for heating system.    If you change a damper, note the position beforehand, you may wan to return to that setting for heating season (manually operated dampers usually have a small lever on the outside of the duct -- parallel to the airflow is "open", perpendicular is "closed")
Running the system fan full-time (rather than just when the compressor is running) may help to even out the distribution of cool air.
If you have rooms downstairs that are too cool, you might close or partially close a small number of supply ducts to improve air flow to the upstairs.   Note that you should not close many ducts without consulting with a knowledgeable HVAC person, as you could restrict airflow too much, making the unit run less efficiently.
If your stairway has a door, leaving it open may help to allow air to circulate more freely between levels (especially if you don't have adequate return ductwork to the upper floor)
Last, consider having a qualified HVAC specialist evaluate your system  to ensure the ductwork is adequate.


How does Red Guard / waterproof relate to floating for tile?

You use Redguard after the floor is prepped. You can do minor floating as in a thin layer of thinset to fill in an area that may have been overlooked while floating the bath floor the first time.

Being its a condo and the floor is concrete, the floor is either poured in place or precast panels set in place. That in mind, I can't see the floors being much out of whack that would make the floors difficult to get right. Worst case with a precast floor, you may have a joint where two precast slabs meet, that would be the most problematic. If there is two distinct levels then there is not enough grinding that will fix it, better to use a self leveling underlayment with their approved primer, the add the Redguard. You can still touch it up a bit with thinset if you feel it is needed.

The larger tile will take a LARGE notched trowel (1/2"X1/2")to set the floor. This itself will automatically build in some give and take. A level floor is good, but you can work with a floor that is all on the same plane. In other words, flat, no high spots, maybe just a little out of level, not much though.


How is the Air Conditioning wiring supposed to connect to my furnace?

Wire colors with HVAC wiring are non-standardized, so the colors themselves don't help much.

Your furance/air handler should have a control board with terminals labelled R, W, Y, G and C. There should be an existing wire that connects to all of these (though maybe not C) that goes to your thermostat.

If anything is different in your setup, please update your question with a picture explaining, don't just wire it as I described or you may damage something.

The A/C unit wires connects to Y and C (usually white on C, but it doesn't really matter).

For reference:

R = power (24VAC)
Y = cooling
W = heating
G = fan
C = common power (24VAC with R)

Since this happens a lot, I'd also highly recommend putting some mechanical protection on this wire. Since it's already disconnected, it should be easy to fish through now.

Some flexible ENT tubing might be the easiest option:

1/2" rigid PVC conduit could also work, you can get elbows and other connectors.

All of this should be available at your local electrical / big-box hardware store.


If you're a little computer saavy, give Google Sketchup a try. It's a free basic (but powerful) 3-D design program. What's nice about it is that it's connecting to the Google object library where you can download all sorts of already pre-built objects that people have already made.

http://sketchup.google.com/


How to separate the outlets in garage from other outlets in the house

First step is to shut off the breaker for that circuit.

Remove the outlet and GFCI and use wire nuts to make sure the original circuit is complete to the other inside outlets.

Then cover it with a blank plate to make a junction-only box out of it.

Then you are finished with the inside outlets.  Turn the breaker back on and use an outlet tester on each one to verify your work.

Highly recommended:  Always use an outlet tester to ensure that the wiring is correct for each outlet.  It can detect all sorts of faults and, even better, it can confirm that you have done the work correctly.

This is a great tool to have around when doing any kind of electrical work, and they are inexpensive.  Might not hurt to use one to check all the outlets in your home.

Here is an example:  Home Depot Outlet Tester

(Aside:  I snipped this image from the Home Depot website, and it appears to be indicating an open ground - just the center light is lit.  On the top of it is a chart showing how to interpret the light patterns.)

Install another outlet box against a stud for the GFCI.

In that box you will prepare your connections to the GFCI.

GFCIs have an input side that will come from the breaker, and they provide output terminals for connection of additional outlets.

From the breaker box, feed Romex down to your crawlspace.

SAFETY FIRST - DE-ENERGIZE THE BREAKER BOX WHILE DOING THIS

Feed it down then up to the GFCI.  Attach the Romex Ground, Neutral and Hot leads to the input side of the GFCI but leave the GFCI hanging out slightly so you can attach the outlet string to it..

Cut off the Romex at the breaker box with a little excess and tie it off - it is not yet time to connect the new breaker.

You can then re-energize the box while you work on the GFCI and outlets.

From the output side of the GFCI you will run Romex to other outlets.  Use a mounting box for each.

You can go laterally to the outlets - just drill a hole in the middle of the studs for the cable to pass through - there is no requirement to use the crawlspace for them.  That might be easier than making new penetrations to the crawlspace for each outlet.  Totally your choice.

  Each outlet has 4 connections plus ground: one pair for input then the other for output.  Use that to daisy-chain multiple outlets in a string.

  Make sure you include ground in the daisy-chaining.

By doing it this way they all will be protected against ground faults, and all of the garage outlets will be on the new circuit.

To finish up, screw in the GFCI and the outlets into the boxes then put on nice attractive cover plates

In the crawlspace, secure the Romex to your floor beams or wherever with something like this:

Last step:  Make your supply connection to Ground, Neutral and the new breaker inside the breaker box.

SAFETY FIRST - DE-ENERGIZE THE BOX WHILE DOING THIS

Pull the Romex up tight and cut off the excess, strip the ends and do the final connections.

It helps to leave a little extra length to make the work easier.  I sometimes add a small loop of Romex inside breaker boxes, depending on how full they are.

Make sure all connections are secure and that there is no mechanical stress on the cable.

When finished, put the metal cover back on the breaker box, re-energize it and use the outlet tester to verify power (and proper wiring) to each outlet.

Test the GFCI with the outlet tester plugged into one of the other outlets.

Voila, a whole new 15 Amp circuit in the garage, all protected via the GFCI.


Fixing window condensation on vinyl windows

Condensation appears to be on the inside of the window.

After 10 years, the seals have failed. They are no longer "gas-filled" - they just have air in there, and the air in there has water in it, which condensed when they are cold. The only way to fix this is to replace the double-pane unit. It's remotely possible that if your window manufacturer was optimistic this MIGHT be a covered failure (they would pay for or supply the replacement panes under warranty), but it often is not.


Is a gasless MIG welder a contradiction in terms?

It is a "MIG" (Metal-Inert-Gas) welder in the sense that it does have a shielding gas for the weld - but the shielding gas comes form the flux core in the wire being vaporized during the welding process and not from a separate gas supply.
You'll note in the product listing "Requires flux cored wire " - because without the flux core there's no shielding gas.