Do you have a furnace or central air or something similar? If so, I suggest adding filters to the system/getting better filters.

There are stand-alone filters that remove dust from the air; a cheaper way would be a box fan, furnace filter, and duct tape.


I've done more digging, and this is what I've found:

Paint

Sits on top of the wood and is capable of forming a sheen
Is good at keeping moisture out, but traps whatever moisture that does get in
Should be easier to clean food / drink spills off

Stain

Can't be applied over a previously painted surface (not a problem in my case).
Bonds to the wood more closely than paint because it actually soaks in
Allows moisture to leave the wood.
Does not form a sheen - leaves original texture of the wood exposed

In my application, I chose to go with paint. I applied two coats of exterior paint with "built in" primer.


How to increase the size of an existing metal hole in kitchen sink

You should be able to use a knockout punch.

These are inserted through a pre existing smaller hole, and can cut sheet metal including stainless steel. They come in a range of sizes.

Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Connect Network Expansion Board/Patch Panel to Router

I haven't reviewed all your options yet, but the "expansion board" is a non-starter. It's a TELEPHONE expansion board and will NOT work as you expect. You can't just connect computers in parallel like phones.   What need there is a LAN SWITCH and all the appropriate re-wiring in your LV panel.   Maybe I'll add to this later...just wanted to let you know now that what you have won't work.
EDIT:  I just added a pic of my LV panel showing 2 small patch panels on the right and an 8 port switch on the left.  It's a little sloppy,  but it works.
Given the few number of connections in your home, you may not even need a switch if your router has enough ports on it.  The benefits of a patch panel is flexibility.


Into the trash goes this 75 cent outlet

It was wrecked by removing the screws and soldering the tab.

Soldering like that to alter a device is not a proper wiring method and is not safe.  Solder does not conduct as well as copper, and melts much sooner.   Edit: Here's a link that shows solder has 9x the resistance: copper 0.0168, solder 0.145.  As soldered it has no chance of carrying the required current.  Keep the solder in the electronics lab.

If you hadn't also pulled the screws out, I would say just unsolder the tab (you're not allowed to modify devices like this) and put 2 pigtails on the 2 screws.  You join those with a wirenut to the two wires you would have otherwise attached to those two screws.

However since you've also torn the screws out, I would say toss the receptacle in the trash.  They cost 60 cents, or $3 for the really good ones.

Those screws are captive, meaning when they are most of the way out, they get really stiff.  You're supposed to stop turning at that point.  That is a detent designed to keep the screws attached for your installation convenience. Pulling them out damages their threads.  If the receptacle has features like screw-clamp, removing the screws "loses" the clamps and ruins the receptacle.

So now you know in the future: anytime you're loosening a screw and it gets weirdly stiff most of the way out, that is a mechanism trying to keep the screw captured.  Don't do a "gorilla act" on it.


Ho do I fix a cordless screwdriver locked in "over-torque" mode?

I suggest checking the battery anyway. 5 years on a rechargeable might need to be replaced. I have a small B&D like that that the battery is just gone far enough it will do light work, but nothing heavy anymore.


What type of Piping for Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventor for Irrigation System

Copper can have problems with high mineral content but even with that it will last decades if prevented from freezing and I think it is the best for exposed work it is easy to cut and sweat fittings and my top preference.
With PVC if doing exposed work I use schedule 80, I have not had problems with sunlight compared to PVC in exposed areas getting broken especially in winter.
Steel would be my last resort, it is harder to cut and thread but holds up quite well on exposed work. As far as rusting it will take many years, I have threading equipment but find both copper and PVC hold up quite well and the extra work of threaded pipe so not worth the time and extra work for me.


How do I install a range anti-tip kit into hardwood floor on concrete?

The anti-tip kit is a good idea, especially the first time you pull a 25 pound turkey out of the oven!  If you have a 1/2 inch engineered hardwood floor, yes, by all means, drill through the wood and use a masonry screw or anchor to attach the clip.  You will regret it if you don't install this safety clip. Thanksgiving dinner will be on the floor!!!!!!!!


Should I sand my traditional wood floor before staining?

If you sand it you'll eliminate the charming deep grain and rough-sawn artifacts. I wouldn't sand anything but what seems like an injury hazard. I'd also leave the gaps empty. A hard-floor vacuum will keep it clean enough.

To the second question, staining without sanding will give very dramatic color variation in the open grain and saw kerfs. You'll get a nice rustic look. If you prefer a more modern, uniform color, sand it well to an even smoothness after you fill the gaps.

Having said that, I'm voting to close the question as primarily opinion-based.


Size of circuit breakers for 220v circuit

They are the same thing and you don't have a choice.   Your breaker is going to be a 2-pole breaker rated 15A.  When you look closely, it will very much resemble two 15A breakers bolted together.  That's not far from the truth.

The breaker will mount in the service panel in two spaces, which could otherwise accommodate two 120V breakers.  What is happening is there are two 120V buses in the panel, and the 2-pole breaker is designed to tap both of them.  They are phased opposite (when one is -120V the other is +120V), so if you tap both, you get 240V.


How can I convert from an E11 socket to an E26 socket?

I'm pretty sure that no one makes such an adapter, it would be a risky proposition for a manufacturer for these reasons:

The mechanical stresses on the socket would be too great.  The adaptor would be too prone to breaking or to destroying the socket.  For an idea about why too much mass is not good for too small a socket, Pick up a full, 2-liter soda bottle only by the cap and try to hold it horizontally.
Many (but not all) E11 sockets are only rated for 50 watts or less.  The temptation to use a 60-watt, or larger bulb, in an E26 socket would be too great -- a big fire risk.

The largest E11 upsizing adapter I've seen is an E11 to E17.

The smart thing to do would be to replace the fixtures or continue to use only E11 bulbs.

But, if you really want to earn your spot on the Redneck Repairs Blog, you could use two adapters:  The E11 to E17 and then an E17 to E26 (NOT recommended).


What's this type of lamp light bulb socket called?

That is a 2-circuit medium base fixture socket. It is designed to accept a 3-way bulb, which is a dual filament bulb that provides 3 levels of brightness. It has a "turn knob" type switch (or maybe a push switch, it is hard to tell from the picture).

Your picture does not illustrate what type of socket holder it came from. There are various manufacturers and configurations and your picture shows the inner fixture components. You may have to buy a complete fixture socket rather than just those "guts" and be advised they are not all identical.


What do fractions mean when talking about electrical wiring

It is not a fraction. 18/5 means that there are five (5) conductors and each is 18 AWG (american wire gauge). The gauge relates to the current carrying capacity of each conductor.

It was all specified in the title of the amazon link that you provided:

Southwire 64169622 5 Conductor 18/5 Thermostat Wire, 18-Gauge Solid Copper Class 2 Power-Limited Circuit Cable, 50-Feet, Brown


Those pipes can usually stand to be buried pretty deep.  but either way There would be no harm in removing some of the sand and replacng it with crushed rock or pebbles.


Long (3") screws (3 or 4) through the jamb into the framing of the house should do it. Be careful not to drive them too tight; otherwise you'll warp the jamb and the door will fit loosely. In a perfect world, you'd predrill the jamb with a drill bit big enough that the screw goes through it readily (but not too loose). If you have the same problem on the hinge side, replace one screw per hinge with a long one. Same caution about overtightening applies (and it would be worse on this side if you did it wrong).


How do I stop lights from flashing when I turn on my table saw?

When an electric motor turns on, there is a thing called "inductive kick". What this means is that for a second at start up, the motor looks like a short circuit and draws more than the rated amperage. Voltage is dropped as well. This is corrected by huge capacitors in an industrial situation. In your case, the combination of large current drain and a resulting voltage drop causes the ballast for the florescent lights to fail to deliver proper voltage to the bulbs.  This is common.  I would move the plug for the lights to another circuit. The only other thing that will cure the problem is a motor starting capacitor.


How can we disable an unused smoke detector?

Put a battery in it. Why wouldn't you want an additional layer of fire protection?


Can a single pole (normal/regular) circuit breaker be used in spots designated for tandem?

Can a single pole (normal/regular) circuit can in spots designated for tandem?

I have to retract my earlier answer to this question.  I had bad information.  Yes, standard breakers can go in tandem permitted slots.

Almost like backward compatible; the circuit breaker can accept normal/regular or tandem. You typically use normal/regular until you need to upgrade to tandem?

You use tandem to save space and run extra circuits when you have no more room in the box.  It's faster and easier than setting up a sub-panel or putting in a larger box, but it might lead to you using more power than your box itself or main feed is rated for.

What does it mean that the circuit breaker was oversized?

That the breaker allowed more amperage than the wire could support.  If you run a 20A breaker over 15A wire you can end up causing a fire.

I probably frustrated you calling it a normal/regular circuit, what is it actually called?

A circuit breaker.  The language you used is fine.

Are there are other general rules I should know?

This is really too broad to answer...  we don't know what you DON'T know.


Turning and tacking carpet where it meets vinyl flooring

To turn and finish a carpet edge, you use a carpet "z bar" along with tack strip. It will be nice and straight if you lay the bar and tack strip straight and are careful when trimming and tucking the carpet.

After tacking, you tamp down the z bar to secure the carpet edge. There are other designs besides the one shown in this image. Choose a heavy commercial grade bar. If your intention is to run this up and over the wood plank you will have a hump, most installers would finish it to the edge. My preference is to use a wood transition bar instead of the "nasty metal" type you describe.


I installed a "decibel meter" app on my phone and it seems to show that the noise level generated is not abnormal, relative to others like it (it's still louder than I'd like).  I was able to have the furnace guys that installed it change the "fan speed" setting, apparently for heat there were two options "high high" or "med high" and the default was high high (apparently for cooling there is only "one" option "super high" but I don't have A/C so haven't experienced that).

Another work around is to just not walk "past the intake" and I'm OK (or not put a couch next to it), though I haven't experimented totally with these options yet.

Other options: use a furnace filter that prohibits air flow (but then they get dirtier more quickly), or add a piece of paper the intake so it can't get air in as quickly (just be careful to not block it too much because if the heat exchanger gets too hot, because it doesn't get cooled with as much air, the furnace will shut off so you'll have to test it out first and make sure this doesn't happen, suggest running it an hour straight to make sure).

If its too much air pressure in the bedroom, I found out that our door lacked a gap underneath it that was large enough to "let air out" as it were (so I could cut off some more from the bottom of the door to make it match the others in the house), and you could also close the vents in that room.

Other options: install variable or two stage furnace.  I'm not sure if two stage would actually be helpful since the furnace man says it just runs as "high high" and "high med" for low anyway, but it's possible he was mistaken.  Two stage might run "more often" as it were, as well, FWIW, so unclear there.  It seems from my research that "two stage" furnaces mostly refers to a "two stage" gas release valve (i.e. 2 stage burner).  The blower is separate, and might be "single stage" still, even on a "two stage burner" furnace (though frequently they're not).  The blower can be "1 stage" or "2 stage" or "variable speed" (the latter being the quietest).

Also double check for CO levels in the air, also have installer make sure the ducts are "big enough" for the size of furnace.


Do I just replace hot/neutral with hot/hot?

Absolutely not! You have a vital step to complete before you can do that.

Note that the bottom picture would have been a little better if you had pulled the cord up so we could see the numbers on the white plastic block.

In this motor, you are working with two sets of wires, the electrical cord and a pair of jumper wires that go to the motor windings. These are the white and brown wire that go from the spade terminals on the white block down inside the motor (designated by arrows below).

Referring to the label, for conversion to running on 220/240V power:

The brown motor winding wire needs to be disconnected altogether. It gets removed from spade terminal #2 and pushed into what they refer to as the #6 pocket.
The white motor winding wire gets pulled off the spade connector on connection #4 and moved over to the spade terminal #2
The 240V power then needs to have each hot connected to it's respective LINE terminal in the pressure switch. The factory wiring between the pressure switch MOTOR terminals and the white motor terminal block for terminals #1 and #4 should be left alone

Basically, you are taking a pair of windings that run in parallel for lower resistance at 120V and changing them to run in series so the coil winding has higher resistance for 240V.

Note: Amended point 3, power input connects to the pressure switch, not directly to the motor...


The green screw firmly grounds the lamp to the mounting bracket.  You are asking  "How does the mounting bracket ground itself to the steel junction box?  Does only metal-metal contact suffice, or does it need to be wired also?"

Yes, metal-metal contact between parts is acceptable grounding if all these are true:

the mounting bracket is bottomed out "hard" against the metal junction box (not dangling by the screws or floating on drywall ears, as is usually the case with receptacles and switches)
and both are clean bare metal (not contaminated with paint, rust etc.)
and there are no insulators in the way (those little squares that outlets use to capture screws).

Unless there are any of those little screw-capture squares that I can't see, both your old bracket and your new one look like valid grounding paths to me.


expect stains, smells, and possibly mastic/glue.

If you're looking for an 'industrial loft' feel, clean it up the best you can and then just cover it with some high-end concrete/floor paint...or epoxy. It'll be rough, but practical.

For a more finished looked, hire someone with a concrete grinder to grind off the bad top layer of glue, dog pee and what-have you. Come back and then apply an acid stain to the entire thing. When finished, give it a seal coat. That's what we did with our basement floor and, at least for me, I love the look.


What you're looking for is known as a window stay. They're mounted to the window sash and the opening and allow infinite position adjustment for awning windows such as yours.


NEVER connect neutral to ground!!

Yes, I know you know there's an equipotential bond in the panel which ties them together.  But I bet you didn't even know it was called that, or what it does.  And you often see slack installations where electricians just spam all neutrals and grounds onto the same bar. That's technically legal in a main panel, but bad form - when neutrals and grounds are rigidly separate, you can clamp a meter around the N-G equipotential bond, and that helps you troubleshoot all sorts of stuff.

The point is, neutral is not ground anywhere else. And ground should never be tied to neutral.  Not least, a neutral wire break means the chassis of the thing is energized.  This is the problem with 3-prong dryer and range connections, and why they are so needlessly dangerous.  If you have any 3-prong dryers or ranges, then do some research on "retrofitting grounds".  Or at least convert it to a 4-prong connection with ground disconnected and and fit a GFCI breaker (and label the socket "GFCI Protected / No Equipment Ground").

You are better off with ground disconnected than ground tied to neutral.  That's how I install lights in ungrounded locations.

The metal junction box might be grounded.  I tie lamp ground to the metal junction box.  If it's plastic, obviously, forget that :)

You are allowed to snip the plug off and direct connect

Flexible cords are specifically allowed for luminaires (lights) as long as the entire length of cord is visible/inspectable from the ground (or inside the junction box).  NEC 300.6 or 7 or 8, not sure.

However, you need a proper strain relief to enter the junction box with a cord. Big-box and hardware stores tend to do really badly with those; outdoors you need rubber ones that seal around the cord. So I go straight to my friendly neighborhood electrical supply house, with cord in hand, and they fit me up. Electrical supply is found in industrial neighborhoods, not consumer retail areas.

Cheap Cheese junk is no longer permitted in lighting

Everything attached to mains must be UL-listed, or CSA or ETL listed (those are equivalents).  CE is not one of those.  Code used to not have this requirement for lighting, so it was open season on cheap Chinese... but I believe in 2017 they required light fixtures to also be listed.

If there's any question of interpreting Code, you ask your local town inspector / permit issuer.  They are the final word.


How do I fix a loose brick on the corner of a tree well?

You could get rid of the mortar debris using a chisel or a good flat-bed screwdriver and a hammer. Just put the point of your chisel on the debris and hit on top of the chisel with your hammer (be careful of your chisel holding hand).

Note: you should put your brick on a hard surface or else you'd break your brick as well!

After being all done with the cleaning, mix your mortar with some water so that your mortar looks jellyish and apply mortar using your trowel following the same pattern like other bricks.

Oh, and the reason for it coming loose, maybe a shock, or temperature variations, rain/snow -> freezing -> unfreezing

Hope this helps :)


How can I join 20“x20”x1" panels into a one-end-open box?

Build a frame with tracks for the filters to slide into.
Use U channel for the tracks.
Get 4  60.75" pieces of 0.5x1x0.5 U channel and cut notches in the sides at 20.25" and 40.5"
Fold them into U shapes
then join them together to make a frame.
Something like this Picasso.

the U channels can be connected together using rivets or welding or whatever.


Download the installation manual for the machines you're getting and it should give you all the details.


How much Weight can a drywall ceiling hold

It is recommended to not hang anything just from the ceiling drywall by itself. Particularly anything you have concern that it could fall due to its weight or safety of people or things under the hanging object.

Instead you need to locate the structure that holds the drywall in place and screw the hooks / brackets / retainers into that structure. The type of things you screw in would be dependent upon whether the ceiling structure was wood, metal rails or concrete. But since we have no guidance from you yet as to what type of structure you have suggestions are limited.


Wrong adapter
Your problem is basically entirely that you have the wrong adapter.  Your transformer is a UK worksite transformer that outputs two 55V legs with an inaccessible center-tap for the grounded neutral, and thus uses IEC 60309 pin and sleeve (also known as "CEEform" or "Commando" in the UK) type connectors as they are rugged and weather-resistant.  These are not intended to mate with the Schuko plug on your current adapter, though, so you'll need to get or fabricate (using a short length of appropriate cordage as a go-between) an adapter from the appropriate pin-and-sleeve plug to a NEMA 5-15 cord cap and use that instead.


How can I make a diffuser for a 22 X 30 skylight shaft?

A standard recessed ceiling diffuser (for a 48" light) would work if you installed a divider to support the middle section for two.


Does the code inspector look at preexisting work, or only at recent work?

Under the NEC, electricians are held to a very high standard when upgrading systems in existing homes. In many areas, the last electrician to have worked on a system can be held responsible for the whole system.  For this reason, most electricians will be very careful to check for any visible or obvious problems and insist they be corrected before new work is done.
As for building inspectors, they come in all degrees of harshness. Older style electrical work that does not meet current codes, but was and still is safely operational is most always grandfathered and the code enforcement inspector cannot force you to upgrade them unless it effects the new work or presents an imminent hazard. However, if you have substandard or unsafe conditions, any good electrician or inspector are going to point it out and insist on repairing it properly. This is to fulfill their obligation to assure your safety.


The unit cycling on and off more would have a negligible effect on your usage. Now the air handler is a different store. If the installer upped the size of it than that's where your increase it. That would explain the higher air flow. Most air handlers have different speeds the blower will operate at. Maybe your old unit have a lower speed set and the new unit has a higher setting set. Those motors are usually 1/3 to 1/5 HP and they run all the time the compressor is running unless you have it set to run continually... make sure it's set to "auto". The plenum being rerouted would also help the airflow by eliminating the bend. If the installers replaced the thermostat the calibrations will probably be different and that would also affect the run time of the unit.


Dedicated circuit for **Sub Zero** refrigerator - any code requirement?

NEC 110.3(B)  Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

This is because the labeling and instructions are part of the UL listing. UL only tests and certifies the appliance if used according to labeling.  So UL has not tested what happens if the refrigerator shares a circuit, and their certification is void if it is used on a shared circuit.

Why they'd want that

Possibly the motor is high-draw when it runs, such that it consumes nearly 80% of a 15A circuit's output, particularly when initially chilling the refrigerator down from warm.    They definitely don't want their fridge on a GFCI; that produces special challenges for a fridge, especially one with a large motor that is built by a small volme producer. Though they can't give that as the primary reason, of course. .

Obviously the manufacturer would not place that requirement lightly, because it prevents them from selling fridges to people without dedicated fridge circuits.  They are pretty high-end, so maybe they expect their customers to ante up.  (Compare: appliance makers have fought tooth and nail to keep the old NEMA 10 groundless stove/dryer connections from being outlawed).

I also suspect UL would push back on them and discourage them from imposing that requirement if it wasn't necessary.


How to prep gypcrete bathroom subfloor that has wood around the toilet?

You've got a sticky wicket of a situation. However, being able to remove the pipe flange was a great benefit. You'll need to build-out the joist under the wall with layers of 2x6 scraps until the scraps protrude at least 3/4" beyond the wall plane for good support of the new subfloor & the ability to screw or nail.

To cut out the old subfloor, lay a bridge of plywood over the wood area, from Gypcrete to Gypcrete. Drill holes in the wood area, inside of the joist, to poke a tape measure down. Then, set your circular saw's blade depth to the measurement from the bridge's top & down to the bottom of the subfloor.

Then, you'll want to remove the nails & cut 3/4" over or on top of the joists (likely a line where the old nails were), so the new subfloor can rest on half of the old joist. Once the wood floor's out, you can use it as a template for a drop-in plywood replacement. You can do cement or cement board on top of the new subfloor patch.


Mounting a pull-up bar on drywall and metal studs?

My in-laws bought my son a pull-up bar last year and I found that, despite, their insistence on the box that we needed 16" studs, the fully assembled bar had holes 17" apart. With there being a major math problem there, I took to solving it by adding a 2x4 behind the top and bottom. I attached the bar with a 4" lag bolt on the top of both sides (to limit roll) and added 3" screws on the side I couldn't put their large lags into. It holds me up just fine. If you want to go the 2x4 route, I think it could work.

The bar you linked, however, has 6 lags on a track for lags (which is smarter). With 3 anchor points available for top and bottom, you shouldn't need 2x4s, unless you're worried about the top rolling and want to better anchor the 2x4s themselves (which shouldn't be necessary)

Your Option #2 won't work at all, because if it falls, it will roll off the top (the force is cantilevered so the top will come forward first), not fall straight down.


Why isn't the toilet water refilling from under the rim?

The water that comes from under the rim, but after the flush comes from a flexible tube that goes from the flush valve (typically on the left of the tank) to the top of the pipe in the center of the tank.  As the water refills the tank, the tube sprays water down the pipe which leads down to the rim and bowl.

This fill tube can come off or get kinked.


Adding a ceiling fan single switch in a box with 3 way switch in older house

You don't have a neutral at the switch. White is a traveler, and should be marked in some way to indicate that it is not a neutral (but is likely not marked). Red is the other traveler, and black is common (either attached to power or the light, depending on which switch it is). Multiway Switching can be confusing, and is the subject of many questions on this site.

This is likely what the circuit looks like

You're describing the wiring at switch 2, where the black wire is only "hot" when both switches are in the proper state (both up, or both down. Unless one is installed upside down). When the switches are toggled, one of the travelers between them will be energized.


I would pay a professional electrician to inspect and remake the grounding arrangements, check the voltage on the gas equipment and provide a certificate (depends on your part of the planet, where I am it would be an EICR for the whole electrical installation, but I'd get the electrician to provide a written report of some sort with his registration number and signature on it)


If it hums then it's getting power to it. A very common thing for them is when the bearings (or bushing) in the motor get dry and begin to stick. A friend of mine had his house catch on fire because of a stuck fan motor. Sometimes it can be lubed (fan turned off) by spraying something like WD40 around the motor shaft right behind the fan itself and then turning the fan by hand until it frees up. The other way is to replace the unit and be sure.


How do I eliminate the cold drafts coming from my air conditioning vents during winter?

The air in your duct work is cold because it is running through the attic which is not heated. There will be some air flow through the ducts because they are not a "sealed container" they are designed to move the air in your home.

As for the DIY project if your covers are metal I would suggest using a magnetic tape or adhesive sheets to attach them. Or they make covers:

For the ceiling registers you will want to make sure the magnets are strong enough to hold material tightly.


A humidifier works by drawing air through it, and removing the moisture from the air as it passes through. The air that's pushed through has to come from somewhere, and go somewhere else. If the floors are open to allow air to pass, then air certainly might pass between the floors.

If you believe the air currents are causing exhaust fumes to be drawn to you living space, you should have the air tested for byproducts of burning fuels.  This will prove definitively that there's a problem.


How to support a load bearing wall when no temporary wall can be constructed?

If the “old hip roof” sits on a double top plate, you can just support the double top plate with 2x4’s set at an angle from the floor up through the ceiling up to the bottom of the top plate.

About 8’ of an interior bearing wall supporting an old hip roof does not “carry” that much weight. I’m sure a couple of 2x4 angle braces can TEMPORARILY support the hip roof.

More important to me is: What do the trimmers sit on? Make sure they are supported all the way down to the foundation.


What could cause a tap to flow well, then spurt?

I presume you turned the water off to install the faucet.  This usually means that air is introduced into the piping, and can cause spurting as it bleeds out.  Leave the water running for a few minutes and see if it stops.

Also, ensure that you've turned any shut-offs all the way back on.


Those are anchors and they are installed backwards on the screws. Turn them around the other way, slip them into the holes, and they will spread and hold as the screws are tightened. I don't really like this type of anchor, but if it what is already there I would use it.


Could recent electrical work cause lights to dim when A/C turns on?

Find out what the A/C guy did.  I would guess he did something which improved the performance of the A/C system, so now, instead of the motor nearly freewheeling against little load, it's having to hunker down and really work.  The increased amperage is "bringing to the surface" a pre-existing problem with wiring, probably between the sub-panel and the supply.

I would now measure to see how serious the problem really is.  It may not be worth worrying about, it may just be over-sensitive bulbs.

You can mask the symptom by buying modern lamps.  Any multi-voltage rated LED (typically 100-240V) or fluorescent tube ballast (100-277V) will ride through voltage sags.  Avoid the cheapies (Feit, Utilitech, Lights of Amerchina, and CFLs of any make; you will not be satisfied with their long-term performance, and they will give LED a bad name.)


Are blocking diodes necessary for solar panels

They are required.  If the panel becomes shaded it is considered DARK. If the panel is Dirty it is Dark. What happens is your produced voltage has a PATH to the other panel. The Diodes block that action - allowing current to flow in only one direction.

  These blocking diodes, also called a series diode or isolation diode,
  ensure that the electrical current only flows in one direction “OUT”
  of the series array to the external load, controller or batteries.

  The reason for this is to prevent the current generated by the other
  parallel connected PV panels in the same array flowing back through a
  weaker (shaded) network and also to prevent the fully charged
  batteries from discharging or draining back through the array at
  night. So when multiple solar panels are connected in parallel,
  blocking diodes should be used in each parallel connected branch.

 Excerpt above from here ^

Connecting Solar Panels / Cells


Converting a Single-Bulb Light to a Dual-Bulb Light - Your Opinions Please?

Nothing too scary about your situation.  That is fiberglass insulation.  I still would avoid breathing it in.  One thing to start with is that light fixtures do not last forever, especially when they used incandescent bulbs.  They deal with so much heat that the metal parts start to break down.  I recommend that you replace the fixture.  That is a pancake box screwed to the ceiling joist.  Leave it be.  Get rid of everything else except the pancake box and the wires coming through the back of the box.  Purchase a new fixture, preferably with LED lights either integrated of bulb style. Follow the instructions with the new fixture for installation. You can do this! P.


What should I do about this possible mold I found under paint?

IMO you are making several leaps here that don't fit.  You've got mold below a window, spread out about 2 feet on either side, and you suspect condensation as the culprit.

You specify that the damage is old - years old by the look of it.  Condensation happens every year, every season.  Why would the damage be old, it should be fresh if it's condensation.

Finally - if condensation were the culprit, the condensation and thus the mold would be uniform. Water leakage through a window, however, is going to fan out below the window in both directions...

The answer is your window leaked at some point - years ago by the sound of it since the damage is old.

Solution?

Remove and replace ONLY the section of drywall that is damaged.  Do not add a partial vapor barrier as that's about as useful as putting in an aquarium with only 2 sides.  Mud and tape properly and repaint.


How to prevent blinking LED on a three way Lighted switch circuit with only one light fixture?

Most 3-way lighted switches work by adding a light between their line and load terminals:

This actually causes a small current to flow through the load (light) -- with incandescent or fluorescent bulbs, it's not enough to actually cause the light to go on. But with your LED blub, it's enough to at least start the bulb.

Your potential solutions:

Replace the 3-way switches with non-illuminated versions
Stick with an incandescent light
Get an illuminated 3-way switch that doesn't draw current over the load lines. A good sign is if it requires a neutral wire. Of course that also means you'd need a neutral in your switch box to be able to use it.


It's not the wiring.  It's the LEDs themselves.

LEDs have a characteristic delay when turning them on which may be more than you're used to from a lifetime of incandescent bulbs.

Swap the LEDs from one position to another, and the problem should move with the bulb.  Replace the LED with the equivalent incandescent (temporarily) and it should go away entirely.

Unfortunately, home LEDs are still relatively new and they suffer from both this characteristic delay --- which may vary from brand to brand -- and manufacturing variation --- where bulbs from the same manufacturer may vary, even within the same batch.

The only way to avoid these issues is to closely watch online and professional reviews (from trusted sources) to pick the better-performing brands; return any product to the store that is an "outlier" in the same room -- or, wait another few years for LEDs to mature (I'm serious) and just live with it for now.


Update and solution: it seems like the brown+blue pair have 2 wires, which means that they are connected to 2 switches: of which either is at least 16 amps. So I got my hob connected to 32 amps, completely ignoring the other 2 wires.


How often do these types of mountings cause problems like this?

There is no way to answer that. In my opinion there is no way to prove that your employee caused the crack.
The genesis of the crack is the opening that was cut in the mirror for the light fixture.
It may be that the crack  just happened without any outside influence, perhaps it was not a perfect cut,  the cut caused a weak spot.  Or the light fixture was tightened down a little to much and over time the opening in the mirror just failed. Or, Or.
If cleaning the mirror caused the crack to start then it would be because there was no proper support behind the opening, resulting in the glass flexing during cleaning, as opposed to not flexing because there was proper support behind the opening.
There is not much we can tell you,
Try to explain to the owner about where the crack started and why a hole in a mirror needs proper support behind it or how it there are inherent risks in cutting glass .
If it were me and  they want take legal action then i would tell them that   i would take my chance at having a court listen to both sides.


What is the minimum distance that should be maintained between parallel electric and data cables?

There are no code requirements for parallel spacing that I am aware of, but a friend of mine who runs network wiring in a commercial setting, says that with typical line voltage, he tries to keep parallel runs separated by at least 12", and shoots for 18".  (He is currently helping me with the exact same issue in our home office reno).


Any damage to Water heater when main water shut-off for a prolonged vacation in Texas

There should be no damage, but of course this would be non-freezing conditions. What setting would you leave the heater on? If electric, I would say switch off power to the heater. If gas, switch to vacation/pilot setting or even turn gas off at the heater.

Upon return I would turn the heater to hot (140 F) and let it come to temperature, then run hot through all delivery points.


Modern ceiling fans have a current limiter for the lights these regularly fail. I have replaced them and bypassed , but this is possibly the failure point since the new light kit did not work.


Replacing kitchen faucet hose in tight space with nonstandard plumbing?

At least the left two hoses are screw-on fittings.  The right one looks like it has a threaded fitting at the top, but may be a push and turn connection at the hose.  It's hard to tell from the picture.  The screw-on fittings should come apart by turning the nut.  However, it also looks like there may be some crud that could be locking things up, especially on the middle hose.

I wouldn't use the typical solvent-based products (like Liquid Wrench or WD-40), on water lines.  It might help to stick a few drops of CLR on the threads, wait awhile for it to soak in, and add more.  Give it some time to dissolve any corrosion and minerals.

Use a wrench on the faucet side of the pipe to keep that from twisting and a wrench on the nut to turn the nut.  Start with the most accessible hose and get that out of the way to make it easier to work on the next hose.  You can get some leverage by positioning the wrenches "one face" apart, wrapping your hands around both, and then squeezing them together.


What is the best way to build a box to elevate my bathroom fan above joists?

Great idea.

I would install 2x blocking to mimic how it would mount normally and then create a chute using rectangular duct.

Rectangular duct is available, pre bent with 1 bend, you buy 2 to assemble.  You can buy a slightly larger size and just tape the overlap to get a custom size.  Be sure to use a metallic tape and not ordinary "duct" tape.

Make your chute several inches longer (than needed) and cut down along the corner seams to be able to bend out 1" mounting flanges on each end.

You may need to make some mounting ears to attach the grille.  Perhaps a pair of screws left proud of the chute would catch the spring loaded bail (bale?).


Help me identify the hex-to-allen adapter in this image

This is a 1/4" x 1/4" hex adapter. Sizes will vary depending on the allen wrench used.

Instead of using this, you could get an offset screwdriver: slotted on one side, Phillips on the other.


What are the sheets typically found in the back of cheap MDF cabinets made of?

The backs if low cost shelf units like that are made of several different materials. If the shelf came as a put-together kit in a box it most likely had a back that had a fold or two. These are usually made of cardboard with one side printed with a fake wood grain image on it.

Other ones that came as a whole back piece will typically be a product made of pressed wood fiber (similar to a Masonite product or other pressed board). These will come with one side printed or colored to match the shelf if one side is exposed to view when the shelf is in use. In some cases where the the unit is more of a cabinet the back will just be a plain brown or tan color.

The back shown in your picture, being white in color, looks to be a melamine covered hardboard. This is still a pressed wood fiber product but is harder and more similar to a tempered Masonite type product. If you do not care if the back is white or not you could replace the back with the tempered type hardboard. It will usually be a dark brown color, typically comes in a 4'x8' sheet and is easily cut with a circular power saw or a hand saw.


Fridge keeps turning off and only back in when I flip the circuit breaker off and back on?

Is it possible that the breaker is tripped but hasn't completely flipped to the "off" position?  The breakers we have do this and it's hard to notice which one has flipped unless you look very carefully to see if one is ever so slightly dislodged from the "on" position.  If this is the case, switching it to the "off" position is required to be able to reset it to "on".  In my case, when I switch to "off" after it has tripped, the effort required to switch it to "off" feels different than if it was properly "on".

If all that is the case, then you probably want to look to see what appliances or devices on that circuit are new, or if you're operating more than you normally do.  If there's a new device on the circuit, then try relocating it to another circuit or just unplug it to see if the circuit behaves the same.

If there are no new devices on the circuit, then perhaps there's something wrong with the refrigerator, but that is outside my knowledge to troubleshoot.


Build shelves into wall, but is it load bearing?

The exterior wall above this indicates that it is almost certainly load bearing. To remove the studs in the wall, you'll need to remove the weight with a temporary support that runs to the foundation floor. Then with the weight off you can remove the studs and reroute any wiring and plumbing in the process. You'll need to construct an appropriately sized header for the load it needs to carry, and that will rest on jack studs that need a continuous path all the way to the foundation and footers inside the foundation. The sizing for all of this depends on how much load you're carrying, and for that, you'll need an engineer that can review the floor plans and give the proper advice.


Can I cut off the 2 fuse from the wire & connect a new one with normal soldering?

Those are thermal fuses if you mechanically twist the wire together prior to soldering you will probably be fine 142c is about 287f that is 1/2 the melting point of most solders but I would twist together or western Union splice prior to soldering and the new fuses should blow long before the solder melts. I have fixed coffee pots that have similar fuses same method / 60/40 Rosen core solder (its outside the cooking area if concerned about lead, or use lead free solder). I put heat sinks on the wires and a quick solder did it on more than 1 coffee pot.


Can I modernize old sliding doors with new frames

No, the aluminum door frames are designed for specifically sized panes that work with each manufacturer's proprietary glazing strategy. Finding a door frame that would fit your glass would be extremely unlikely; equally unlikely would be that a manufacturer would even supply a door frame by itself. Most aluminum door manufacturers will create custom size units, but trying to get them to fabricate a custom door frame only, to fit your glass, would be highly unlikely and more costly than a complete new unit with the glass.

Also, there is the problem of the surrounding aluminum framework and track, which are designed to work with the original door frame and rollers and would not likely work with a new "modern" door frame.

Also, I suspect that an entirely new unit would actually cost less than what you would end up paying, were you able to find a willing supplier.

Also, if your old glass is not tempered safety glass (older units often are not) it should not be used for a door at all.

An alternative might be to have a wood frame designed and built at a custom door and millwork shop; again, likely to be more $$ than an entire new aluminum unit.


You're asking for trouble if you try mounting a TV on wood paneling.  Even if it holds initially, the weight of the TV will be pulling constantly against the paneling.  Eventually it's going to buckle and you're going to have a pile of TV broken on the floor.

What is the paneling affixed to?  If there are studs behind it, put your anchors in the studs.  If it's against a masonry or concrete (block) wall, put some good masonry anchors into that, and do a pull test to make sure they're secure.


My house has steel "2x4s" in the walls, can I hang cabinets, a TV, or some other heavy item from them?

Metal studs are great for framing walls. They are super light, easy to work with, straight. But you've discovered one drawback...they don't have nearly the strength of a wooden 2x4 for mounting things to it.
Metal studs do come in different gauges though. The heavier, the better.  But it sounds like yours are fairly lightweight.
Some options:

take down the sheetrock, add some wood 2x4s, re-sheetrock
find toggle bolts suited for this (they may exist, though I doubt any are rated for hanging actual cabinets or HD TVs).
add your own mounting panel on the outside...such as some nice finished furniture grade plywood. Since the plywood can be attached to multiple studs in multiple locations, it can spread the load.
get an entertainment system designed with its own 'wall' panel. Ikea has several, for instance:


How do I put a recessed light in a wet location, where the can itself will get wet?

The cans themselves are not wet rated.

You should install a fixture that is. Such as a strip light that is sealed and gasketed. Something rated for outdoors.

Good luck!


Home receptacles measure from 24 to 96 volts

DVM's have a problem.  Unlike traditional voltmeters which use a tiny amount of current from the circuit to move the needle in the meter, DVM's are self-powered and draw essentially no current.

If you lay two wires in parallel and energize one, the floating, unattached wire will "pick up" a voltage by induction (well, capacitance).  This is useless and there's no force behind it (if it wasn't, everyone who lived near high-tension lines would pirate power by laying wires alongside).   You won't see that power on an analog meter, because there's not even enough current to move the gauge needle.

So when you measure a circuit with a DVM, you never know what you're looking at.  It might be real live power or it might be this phantom.

When this happens, put any load on the circuit such as a night-light or a 3-lamp circuit tester, and measure again.


I think the quick lime can react with water and then will prevent the sinkhole from extending


Can I swap out this 20A breaker for a 15A breaker?

That's fine.  The breaker protects the wire, and it's always allowed to use larger wire than you need, so bumping the breaker down to 15A is legal.  Based on your anticipated load, it sounds like you won't have a problem with the breaker tripping.

The one issue you may have is if you intend to run a space heater on one of the shed outlets sometimes -- they usually use a whole 15A circuit by themselves, so that wouldn't be compatible with also having the lights on the circuit.  However, that would just trip the breaker and wouldn't present a safety issue.

Note that since you have pool lights on this circuit, it'll need to be GFCI protected.  If your current 20A breaker is a GFCI breaker, replace it with a 15A GFCI breaker.  If it's a normal breaker currently, you probably have a GFCI somewhere downstream (though check this, and rectify if not), so replacing with another regular breaker is probably okay, but doubling up on the GFCI is allowed, so you're welcome to use a 15A GFCI breaker in either case.


Is this home electricity supply panel ready for a current-sensing energy monitor?

You're right on the money

Yes, you have indeed found your main fuse in that clear plastic fuseholder.    I wouldn't make any guesses about the wire colors, but that's OK, because either side will work for clamping the CT onto it.  If you want to double check, simply detach the fuse-section from the fuseholder -- that should kill all power to the house if our theory here is correct.


motion sensor lights constantly on, motion only, or off

The problem with a regular "3-way" switch it that it doesn't have an 'off' position where neither of the sides is connected. For that you'd need a 'center-off' switch like this Leviton 5685-2W.

Then, as others have commented, it may not be a good idea to cut power to the sensor as it could take some time to get itself restarted and operational.

So, how about this instead:

This way, the sensor is always powered, but you're switching the light between the sensor's output and the always-hot line (with the off position in the middle).
The down-side is that you'll need an extra wire in the cable so that you can bring the sensor output back to the switch.


Should a copper central-heating water pipe be mortar-ed in when passing through an internal wall?

That could definitely be causing a ticking sound if the pipe is moving it will clink against the mortar and possibly loud enough to hear.

There is nothing wrong with having mortar around it other than a PITA if you need to replace it.  What you need to do is make sure that the pipe is secure as possible (tie-downs, clamps, whatever) on each side.  You could also try wrapping the pipe in cloth to reduce sound or if you have a gap to hit it with spray foam.


One Furnace, Dual Zones -- Install Sensi on each?

The most common way that two thermostats work with one HVAC system is through the use of a zone controller like one of these.  They can be installed near the air handler, but it could also be in a nearby closet so it can be monitored or adjusted without going in the attic.

The zone controller makes all the decisions about controlling dampers and calling for heat or cool, so the thermostats don't have to know they are not controlling their own independent system.  The thermostats are "standard" and don't need any extra features or wire connections, so you should be able to easily replace them with a smart thermostat and follow the normal installation instructions.

You can verify this by finding the zone controller, or just look at the wiring on your current thermostats.  If they have the typical R, G, Y, W, C wires and nothing extra then its a safe bet they are standard thermostats.  If they have some additional wires (and you don't have a heat pump or multistage heat/cool) then it might take some more research.  Also look up the model numbers of the current thermostats.


Most jurisdictions allow a homeowner to do their own work as long as it is done up to local Code standards. Check with your local inspection office on Long Island to determine your rights as a homeowner and the process of making alterations to your home according to local Code.

There are many ways to acquire skill in electrical construction.

get a full time job as an Apprentice Electrician
offer to job shadow an Electrician that does residential work to help in order to learn, like an internship, for a short period.
enroll in classes at a community college
read books in the DIY section at your library or buy them for your own library
research your subject online and watch videos on the subject

If you have taken college classes then you know the basic routine of learning a new subject. There is a lot of terminology, theory, and tool and material familiarization to achieve the skills necessary to perform the work. You don't have to have that much skill to add a few receptacles and it is a great place to start. You may decide to make a career of it.

Good luck!


Simplest way to carbonate a kitchen faucet

I don't believe this is going to work very well with the set up you have described.  Carbonation of water requires that the CO2 dissolve into the water.  Assuming you get the pressure all worked out, the surface area between the gas and the water is going to be tiny.  If it worked at all, it would dissolve into the water line itself.  My guess is only a few ounces would be carbonated at most when you open the tap.

Another thing to consider is that the colder the water, the more CO2 it can dissolve.  This is why a hot beer is more likely to foam out and create too much head than a cold beer.  Here's a graph of that relationship:

source

I think you might be able to manage this with a tank, though.  Basically it would be a keg but you would need to have a water supply as well as CO2 for the water to refill through.  I'm not sure there's something off the shelf for this but reverse-osmosis systems have a tank so there might be a way to cobble together parts for to make it happen.  I'm not exactly sure how you would make it automatically refill.

You'd want to have some sort of check valve on the water line to prevent it from flowing back into the water supply.  The CO2 tank should have some sort of pressure control valve just like it would on a keg system.

This wikipedia page has some good info on this.  If 70 PSI is the right number for the water line, you would probably need to release the pressure from the CO2 in order to refill the tank.  The amount of carbonation could be tweaked by the pressure from the CO2 tank.  The higher the pressure, the more CO2 will dissolve.

One other consideration is that it the pressure is much higher than typical water pressure, the faucet might not be designed for that and/or it could shoot out too fast.


Do products like Ditra make tile removal more complicated?

Tile is generally installed as a permanent fixture.  Removal is intended to be difficult - in fact easy removal is a clear indicator that the installation wasn't done well.  The sub-material is often destroyed in the removal process because of the force necessary for removal of the product.

DITRA, being textured, would hold onto the mortar used to mount the tile.  The only thing more complicated about demo where DITRA is involved is it's one more layer to be removed.


Can I use the T terminal in my furnace as the C for a Wifi Thermostat?

Note: the solution here is the querent's -- I'm simply writing it up in a CW answer to get this off our plate as the querent has not returned to migrate it from his question-edits to an answer himself.

SOLVED (01/04/15): I decided that the T terminal was exactly what I needed so gave it a try and everything is working perfectly. I also pulled in some 18-5 thermostat wire. Here is my setup, in case it might help someone else:

Furnace: Lennox G14Q3-60-13

Thermostat: Honeywell RTH6500WF

I've attached pictures of my connections.


what should we do at the chipped tub rim lip

Option two is the way to go. You don't want any angle space between the studs and the cement board. Secure the cement board firmly to the studs flush with the edge of the tub lip and seal the seam with caulk. Then install your tile over the cement board and face of the tub lip. Then grout and then seal the bottom row of tile where it meets the tub with caulk.


Can a clear tube added on the outside of a water tank be used to read the water level?

There should be no fundamental problem with this, provided that the indicator tube is not closed at the top. You can either install a vented cap to keep debris out, or connect the top of the tube to the top of the tank.

As a callow youth I assisted in the construction of a water tank indicator like that. I have also operated a steam boiler with similar indicators. If common experience is any guide, your most likely problems will be:

Discoloration of the inside of the tube, from scaling or even from
algae, that makes it difficult to read the level.
Hidden blockage that prevents the free flow of water to and from the tube.
Damage or fracture of the indicator tube leading to a serious leak.

Against (1) you should make the tube dismountable so you can clean or replace it. This will require a shutoff valve and a threaded joint or union.

Against (2) you can rely on dismounting the tube and briefly opening the shutoff valve, or you can install a drain valve that you can open briefly, thus restoring your confidence that the flow is unrestricted.

Against (3) you must install a shutoff valve.

Note that the combination of the shutoff valve and a drain valve can also serve to drain the tank when necessary. If your tank presently has a drain valve, this might be a place to install the indicator without boring any more holes in your tank.

Here is a sketch to show the order of the valves and fittings for a couple of possible tank drain positions:

The order of the fittings must be: Tank Tap -- Shutoff -- Sight Glass Connection -- Drain Spigot.

You will have to shop for the transparent tube and the compression fitting together. Don't bother with a big-box home supply store, go to a plumbing supply shop and talk to the oldest guy there.


Most washers will flex somewhat, so unless it's a really small pipe, or you're installing in really cold temperatures, you shouldn't worry ... but I'd be more concerned with being able to hold the nut still while you're trying to bolt to it in a smaller diameter pipe.  (I don't know if the 1.5" is ID or OD, but if it's outer diameter, and it's got any significant wall thickness, it's going to be tight)

If you're really concerned, you should be able to find a rubber gasket to put in there to take up some of the gap; you could also cut down a rubber grommet or bushing to fit in there.  You could also use multiple thinner washers which will flex more easily than a single thick one.

Another option would be to take a hole saw that's got a similar inner diameter to the pipe, cut a plug of wood, then slice a chunk off to make the flat-on-one-side-curved-on-the-other piece you're looking for.  (and then use a fender washer or similar so the nut doesn't dig into the wood).


Material Identification: Bath tub front cover

It "could" be asbestos, but most likely it's Zementgebundene Holzwolle (cement-bound wood wool).  It was used as a cheap, lightweight cover material.  Heraklith was a popular brand across the German-speaking countries until well into the late 90s.


Based on your last comment, it sounds like you are trying to make the following bend by doing the 90-degree bend followed by the bump-out and you are unable complete the bend for the bump-out.

This basically comes down to finding a way to get more leverage.

One way to accomplish this is to plan out the order of the bends better so you are not pulling on short lengths of conduit or in ways that the conduit will want to rotate on you. In this case, I would suggest one of the following workflows:

Reverse the order of the bends: Do the bump out followed by the 90 degree bend.
Depending on the length of conduit required after the 90 degree bend on the side opposite of the bump-out, start by making the bends further toward the middle of the conduit so that you have a long piece of conduit to work with on the side with the bump-out. Then, you cut off the excess length you do not need:


Can I reduce draft in an elevated floor with house wrap below the insulation?

Yes it would. I've built a number of "four season porches" in Minnesota (for high-end clients who would've certainly complained if their floor was cold). They're essentially rooms on posts. Our standard approach is as you describe--fiberglass batts with house wrap below, then treated plywood. As long as the house wrap is securely pinned to the floor framing you'll effectively block wind.
Section view:
================================== <-- floor sheathing
~~| |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |~~~~~~~~
~~| |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |~~~~~~~~
~~| |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |~~~~~~~~ <-- fiberglass insulation
~~| |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |~~~~~~~~
~~| |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |~~~~~~~~
~~| |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |~~~~~~~~
---------------------------------- <-- house wrap
================================== <-- treated plywood

Since you're reversing the order of the outer two layers, I'd maybe use 1x2 battens and screws around the edges to really pin down the house wrap and create a seal.


Fire hazard of exhaust fan with heating bulbs in bathroom?

Aside from the kitchen, I would say the bathroom is one of the most likely places for things to catch fire.  You have:

Water and electricity (never a great combination).
Curling irons and hair dryers (often cheaply made & get very hot)
Lots of flammable things (paint, wallpaper, drywall, cabinets, towels, etc.)
Things that go boom (hair spray, air fresheners, other aerosols)


Do vinyl planks need an expansion joint between rooms?

Definitely check with Trafficmaster for their suggestions, they're really the only ones that know. But, I'd suggest back-beveling your cuts in the middle (or more places) of the full run to avoid any transitions. Back-beveling is just a 1 or 2-degree pie slice cut to the bottom...the top is tight but the bottom has a minor gap.

This way, if there is movement just the top would buckle & can be re-cut or trimmed in place, to fully remove the 1-time buckle permanently.


It sounds like you're not talking about the actual key lock itself or the pins & tumblers, and I think you only mean the steel D bar & latch, very similar to car door hinges & latches, so a similar solution should work.

The owner's manuals for cars I've had recommended using one of these two, re-applied every few months or whenever it seems harder to open:

Grease -  white lithium grease (often used on car door hinges & latches), or even any grease, wheel bearing/axle grease, even cooking grease for a short while, just about any type that won't wash away easily.
Oil - plain motor oil, or a 3-in-1 type

You could probably still use regular WD-40, it is very good at preventing rust, but it does go dry & a little sticky pretty quickly, so you'd have to re-apply it much more often, maybe every month or so.

Or, you could use a specialty corrosion inhibitor spray like:

WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor Spray - The company website advertises a comparison against some other methods with this image
but Amazon might have some less biased reviews.

Or a firearms product like Birchwood Casey RIG Universal gun Grease that has reviews like "I have used this product since 1951... and never had any problems with rust."

I've also read that petroleum jelly or anything wax-like, even beeswax can be effective too. Probably anything that coats the metal and keeps water & air away should work, it just depends on what you've got handy & how often you want to re-apply it.


What should I consider when designing a simple bookcase that will be built without power tools?

The solution when I was in college was to use cinder blocks as the uprights. No tools at all required. This is a long time ago granted, but I believe gravity has not changed much. Cheap and common, cinder blocks are about 8 inches square by 16 long. Two stacked for each end of a shelf makes room for common book sizes. We would call 22 mm 3/4inch here and I would comfortably make a four foot shelf for books without worrying about bracing provided it is solid wood, which it sounds like it is. The advantage of the cinder block approach is ready availability and quick installation. It is not pretty, though, you would have to call it utilitarian, which went well with the wire spool table and orange crate record storage. This is, or was, a common approach to furnishing your first apartment in the States. They do make cinder blocks in 8 inch cubes also if your shelves are narrower.


Looking at your sub it was done correctly , the white neutral bond was not connected so you can connect the 14-50 , you will need to remove one of the double pole breakers and yes you use all 4 wires 2 from your new 50 amp breaker 1 ground and 1 neutral. , great question and good photos.
Make sure to get the correct brand and type of breaker for the sub I can’t quite make out the brand but the main is a Murray , but the tandem breaker is Bryant this is something I have seen many times and usually not code compliant for 2 reasons , Bryant breakers were not listed for a Murray panel even though they fit. Item 2 is early panels were limited on the total number of spaces so manufacturers came up with “cheaters” early tandem breakers that did not have a rejection feature allowing the buss to be overloaded, these breakers usually have a sticker stating they are Non Current limiting. (Just want you to know).
If you can find the proper double pole breaker for the sub all may be fine but I would want the main panel updated so there is not a problem if there is a fire later even though everything on the sub is correct there could be problems because of the alien breakers in the main.


How to release tombstone wire without cutting? And why won't it turn?

Grab the wire quite firmly and twist and pull.  It will come out.
That type of tombstone, with the rotating guard, can be unnervingly stiff sometimes.  If you want to replace them with passive types, feel free - there are many styles of tombstone (how the base interacts with the fixture, but one type is dominant, and that looks like it.


Thermostatic Valve in Shower Not Adjusting Water Temperature

This was the cartridge that needed replacing and it did the trick in case anyone searches this
Moen 130156
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Moen-Cartridge-Repair-Kit/1002967992


Very low pressure at the end of natural gas pipe

Your 2# regulator is likely dropping the pressure down to about 1/4 psi which is what most appliances need. By putting the tee after the regulator and running a 80ft line isn't going to be sufficient. Longer runs generally need larger piping. Your 1/2in line wont be able to keep up. You probably should have ran the 2psi line (i.e. a tee before the regulator) and installed a 2nd regulator up there.

Here in the United States, most houses are fed 1/4psi after the meter and if there is problems with piping or a need for large appliances, generally pressure can be increased to 2PSI.  Since you have 1/2" gas piping, that might explain why you have 2 PSI of gas. On my house, the line coming in is 1-1/4".


Is that normal?

NO, It should not be full of water. It's purpose is to drain water that flows into it so water does not spill over the top of the sink and on the floor.
There is channel that the overflow water flows through to an opening in the drain. (If the proper drain with an opening was installed, some are not designed for an overflow).  If the installer used plumbers putty it is possible that the openings got clogged.
If you take the stopper out you should be able see the opening on the side of drain hole and possibly see if the hole is obstructed.


Roof mount a schedule 40 PVC pipe, looking for angled/adjustable roof flange

I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out the terms. It seems that when you write "roof mount flange .. meant for exhaust ductwork" you might be referring to a roof flashing like this: (image from oatey.com)

Those flashings aren't intended to support a pipe at all; they merely keep water out of the roof. I don't think they'd be of any use for mounting your pipe.
When you write of "supports from an old satellite dish" I think of an antenna mount like this one made by Laird: (image from streakwave.com)

I can see the foot of that mount working well to anchor the bottom of your mast. I use those alone for mounting small (14 inch diameter) antennas, but for your taller mast, a brace like this one used for satellite dish mounts might be useful: (image from summitsource.com)


Are most contractors capable of building any home?

Although David Moore is somewhat correct, there are a lot of varied explanations to your question depending on where you live, the market etc.  In large markets, there are large corporate home builders that have multiple crews covering all trades and do a turn key package. Many do custom homes from your plans. Many however will only build your home on land they have and sell you. Mega builders are not as flexible as smaller builders.

In more rural areas, or areas where development is not large, the contractor pool is much smaller. In my area around Portland Maine and most of New England, custom home builders are mostly general contractors. They have preferred sub-contractors for foundations, framing, electrical, etc, etc, etc.  There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a general contractor, in fact, they often are very competitive and build a great product.

The key to getting what you want is picking the right contractor based on research, referrals, and interviews with existing customers. Check with your local BBB, State licensing bureau or similar to see if the contractor is in good standing and financially sound.

When you sit with you contractor, the devil is in the details. Know exactly what you want. Don't fall for the "allowance" quotes.  Be specific on what type, brand, model of everything you can think of, or pick from what the contractor has to offer.  Example: lighting fixtures can be $15 or $80 each, plumbing fixtures can range from $50 for a bath faucet to over $300, counter tops go for $20/square foot to over $100/square foot. The same goes for windows, doors flooring, cabinets, counter tops, wiring devices, tile, the list goes on and on. Quality costs money, but spec grade materials can be very cheaply made.  Insist on a full check list, specify all options, materials and grade/models of appliances etc.  This is a big job, but if you want to be happy with the finish product, know what will be going into it.

A good general contractor is going to spend the time and help educate you and assist you in making these important decisions. The more specific you are up front, the more accurate your quote will be and less $$$ overruns. Change orders are very expensive.

Always be proactive, inspect materials before they are installed. Be sure the right stuff is being used and your specifications are being followed. Having an open line of communication with the GC is the key to assure a smooth job and catch problems before they happen.   Good luck


If you don't mind having a glass screen in front of it, you could do that to prevent some of the heat from reaching the wood. Also cleaning the chimney and flume might help some more smoke escape


You don't need to crown the driveway, just make sure that the runoff slopes away from the house at to one and a half inches per ten feet; so if your driveway is 20ft long, the bottom should be 3inches lower than the top. If possible, pitch in two directions, so water runs to the bottom and to the side. (the recommended minimum is 1" to 10', but I like to play safe)

You don't set granite blocks in a mortar bed - it's too rigid and brittle. Use blocks designed for a vehicle driveway (they're thicker than the normal pavers you can buy). Put a good base below that - 8 to 12 inches, compacted. Anything less will not take the weight of the cars for too long. Spend a lot of money and time getting the base right, and the block part of it will be fun.

The internet has a lot of help on how to build and install driveways. My advice is only as follows;

Prepare your base such that it extends sideways 50% of the depth. So if you're working on a 12" base, you want to prepare an area 6" extra all round (so a 10'x20' drive needs an 11' x 21' base)
Rent, or buy, a vibrating plate compactor. It's worth it for the speed and quality of finish.
Don't think that you can get away with a thinner base because you have hard ground. You may get away with it, but it's better to be absolutely sure that the base you've built is to your specifications, not Mother Natures.


I use a plastic putty knife.  Some of my guys even use plastic knives (yes the kind you use at bar-b-ques).

The whole purpose is to scrape it off without damaging what is underneath.  The plastic knives add a serrated cutting tool and the shape is better for cracks/smaller areas.

Some things life (others) has taught me:

WD-40 helps for some reason.  If I give the area a quick spray, wait 10 mins, it cleans up easy 80-90% of the time.  No idea the science behind this.
Razors/metal knives aren't worth it.  Yes they are faster.  But all it takes is one chip and that ends up taking longer to repair than the total removal of the caulk.  I have learned my lesson 5-6 times.
Hair dryer is a mixed bag too.  Unless you are 110% sure it is silicone, I wouldn't be aiming a hair dryer at it as it may make your mess bigger.
On tough jobs I go back to my fix for 90% of cleanup.  Bucket of steaming hot water, Dawn, and bleach.  Sponge some of the hot water to the problem area - I use a kitchen pad which is a sponge on one side and a mild scrubber on the other.  Wait about 30 seconds and repeat until caulk residue is broken down enough to remove with a light scrub.


New residential service installation 200 amp california

The trench is not 18" deep.  The trench is 22" deep.  The cover over top of the conduit is 18" per Code.

I would bump to Sched 80 conduit for the curves and entrances and exits, because it can stand some physical abuse.

You must lay the conduit in the ground, all complete, before pulling any wires into it. Assembling the conduit around the wires is illegal. It will be a very formidable pull.

Before committing to conduit, consider theft.  Any goober could chain your wires to a bumper hitch and drive away, dragging all 500' out of the conduit.  Whereas pulling it from 24" direct burial, the cable would snap.

Aluminum is the ONLY wire to consider for this. It is an excellent conductor, and in service and feeder wires, it performs just fine.  Honestly if you went to the distributor and asked for this in copper, it'd be fun to see that on hidden camera! Their eyes would light up with dollar signs, and then they'd need to special order it.

Make triple darn sure it's 490 feet. 500' is a standard wire spool size, and you really, really don't want to buy wire and find out it's 501'.  Count your conduit sticks carefully and measure three times.  On the upside, you get the whole-spool discount, so there's that.

Voltage drop is serious business. On a very long run like that, you lose a bit of voltage.  You can compensate by making the wires larger.  But we shouldn't do that lightly.  Let's go through it step by step.

The absolute minimum wire size which is mandatory

You are provisioning 200A service.  Thanks to 310.15(B)(7), we get a favorable "derate" on the wire size - we only need wire good for 83% of the 200A, or 166A.  In conduit, we get to size wires off the 75C column of the chart, so that brings us to 4/0 aluminum wire, at naturally 180 amps.

The "I was told" person has downsized your neutral. That's really decided by the provisioning of your particular loads, but I believe downsizing neutral to 2/0 is not unreasonable if  you have a lot of 240V loads.

So the minimum size, if we completely ignore voltage drop, is two 4/0 and one 2/0.  (as usual, the "I was told" person gets the facts wrong.)  Boy, I'm glad  you didn't buy the wire yet.

Now we need to think about voltage drop.

Look. I'll be the first person to roll my eyes and say "pshaw" when someone rants about big wire upsizing and 3%.  3% is not a rule, it's a wire salesman's dream.  And my rule of thumb is don't worry about it until you're at about 200'.  However, yeah. You need to worry about it.

So go to any handy-dandy voltage drop calculator, and first, change that 3% to 5% limit.  Or 6% if you're not overly fond of your tenants :)

Now, consider the current you'll actually be drawing on a regular basis.  For God's sake don't put 200A in there.  You're required to derate your loads to 125%, so the most you could ever plan on putting on a 200A service is 160A.  But realistically, you have to look at the actual nameplate numbers on the large appliances you expect to use simultaneously (e.g. NOT A/C and heater; and if you're running an electric oven, the house heater will be working less).

So you have to "play". And see what the chart tells you.

My usual calc is broken, but I tried it on another calc.  If you're running the service to the wall at continuous absolute limit (160 amps) and don't bump the wire and stay with 4/0, then your voltage drop is 5.05%.   If you bump wire one size to "250 kcmil" that cuts it down to 4.27%.  But again, that's at redline, so that better be uncommon.

Crunch with a somewhat more realistic 100A, and we get 3.16% drop, which nobody would have a problem with (except wire salesmen)... if we do 1 wire size bump to 250 kcmil, then you're at 2.67% drop.

Mind you, pulling 100A@240V, your electric bill will roll by at $3 per hour.

So I would do either

4/0, 4/0, 2/0, 4   -- or--
250kcmil, 250kcmil, 3/0, 2

with the last number being an aluminum ground wire.  If  you install receptacles at the meter point, or tap power in any way at the meter point (e.g. to an outbuilding), I would direct-bury the ground wire also, because you'll need it if you do those things.  If you stay in conduit, you could always add it later, though fishing an extra wire into such a very long run can be challenging.  Price it and decide.


How would I mount a laundry drying rack that doesn't line up with the studs?

A picture would be helpful, but here's my recommendation.

Attach a long piece of wood to both of the studs and then attach the drying rack to that piece of wood. Could be a fun project to add a nice finish to the wood too.

Use a french cleat. These come pre-made in all sorts of different sizes. However, you can make one from 3/4" plywood (birch would look best, but is pricier), or a nice 1x3 piece of pine. just cut it lengthwise with a table saw or circular saw at a 45 degree angle.

The french cleat can span the entire length between two studs (where you can add more for different designs), or just on that single stud. These things are incredibly strong. I have a 8" french cleat holding my bike on the wall.

I would choose the prior two before drywall screws, but those are an option too. You may want to invest in some better drywall screws that have a higher load capacity than the ones that came with it.


Installed fixtures must be correct

Any receptacle which is installed as part of the building must be exactly what it says on the tin.  If you are provisioning 240V hot hot ground to the receptacle, and breakering it for 15A, it must be a NEMA 6-15.  Period.

The simple fact is, if you provision 240V to a NEMA 5, it will be a matter of time before someone plugs a 120V appliance into it. You know the feeling, you're trying to get something done, you have a 5-15 plug in your hands and you search for the nearest receptacle your cord will reach.  Everyone else does the same thing. And that's the problem. Your rush to an immediate goal is no excuse.    A reasonable person will foresee that a miswired NEMA 5 will find a victim, just a matter of time.  An exacerbating factor is that you're intentionally refusing to pull a permit and get inspected because you know you'll flunk.

Just don't do it.  Seriously.  Not meaning to be a nag here, just there's a better way to do that thing.

The cheater is the way to go

None of this is legal.  But since it's not part of the building, the AHJ (building inspector) doesn't have nearly as much to say about it.

A 6" long homemade extension cord will send signals that makes it far less likely for an innocent person to have an accident.  First, there's no logical reason for a 6" extension cord to exist.  Second, it's obvious that the plug is weird, *presuming that you use a NEMA L6-15 locking type.  Also, label it clearly, and attach it securely to the charger with a cord coupler.


How can I temporarily fix a leaky faucet?

Other than turning the water off at a location before the faucet, there is no real temporary fix - you either fix it, or you don't.

The problem with really old faucets is finding replacement parts.  I had one from the '70s with a similar issue and I couldn't even get replacement parts. I opted to just replace it.

That being said, replacing it should not be a huge job.  I was able to replace an old 3 handle faucet with a single handle faucet in a couple hours (my first real plmbing project). They make special remodel wall plates specifically for this that allow you to cut a large enough hole in the wall to replace the faucet, and then cover it up with the plate:

If you are able to access the wall behind the shower then it is even easier since you can easily cut and repair a large drywall hole.

If you are handy you can definitely do it yourself, or call in a plumber to do it for you.  I imagine a plumber would make quick work of this.


Install Smart Switch - Neutral wire from adjacent switch?

Looks like your switch is at the end of the line loop. That is why you have neutral and black joining in the switch. This is a case where power goes into light first, and then the switch.
Possible case: https://www.buildmyowncabin.com/electrical/wiring-switch-power-into-light.html

For multiple switches, the neutrals are joined together, and that is what you see in the other 3-way using a "marrette" (I had to look this word up)
https://www.buildmyowncabin.com/electrical/wiring-diagram-multiple-lights-multiple-switches.html

I think you can control by joining with the neutral from other switch (As long as you are sure that it is indeed the neutral).
Put the white of current switch into your smart switch live. The black wire going into old switch into smart switch load. Neutral from other switch will go into neutral of smart switch too.

There should have been a black tape on the old switch's white wire. Not sure, it might be just the code requirement in some states (maybe also in Canada). You can add it now anyway.


Tankless Water Heater and turning off main water supply

There are flow sensors in tankless units so if you are simply shutting down the valve on the water supply and then reopening it I wouldn't be too concerned. That being said shutting down the water supply can change the pressure in the system as temperatures of the water change. I don't think it would cause any trouble. But, anytime you close the valve the water is in a closed system. It's a good idea to install a potable water expansion tank.

This is a potable water expansion tank

www.amazon.ca

They are almost exclusively 3/4" NPT. You would need to measure your static pressure(pressure with the taps closed and the main open) with a gauge. Then pump air into the air nipple (bottom of the tank pictured above) with a bicycle pump or preferably air compressor to match the static pressure before installing it. It's a good idea to install a service valve as well.


Adding recessed lighting to ceiling fan switch

Yes, you can do this. The easiest way would be to extend the wiring from the ceiling fan box to the new recessed lighting cans and connect them the way you listed.
You could also run additional wire from the switch box to the recessed light location but running new wire down a wall would probably be harder than tapping into the ceiling fan box. From your description, it appears the feed source is into the switch box so you'd be OK, just cap of the the unused wire from the 14/3 (red from your description) to the ceiling box at both locations.


Can I add a framing block along a cable to meet stapling code requirements?

I am not very familiar with the term sister, but if it means you're adding a piece of stud to another stud to get closer to your NM for stapling. Then I would say no one would have a problem with that form a code standpoint. Just make sure you're in the center of the wall or at least 1 1/2" from the drywall.


How to level a tilted free-standing closet

Unless you want to drill holes in it and anchor it to the wall,  using wood shims (very thin pieces of wood) would be the best thing.  That is about all you are going to be able to do.  You can buy shims at any hardware store, and they are thin enough that you will be able to go up about 1/8 inch at a time until you get it level.  they do the same thing with pool tables in your home too, so I think that this would be the easiest solution.


How to level bathroom plywood subfloor before tiling?

You could do either:

level the floor or
level the individual parts (shower enclosure, vanity, toilet)

Which you choose will depend on the degree of out-of-level

Self Leveler:
self leveler does not need to stay intact after the backer board install.  It can fracture and still completely support the backer board.. its got nowhere to go and it doesn't migrate or degrade.

My personal preference is to use self leveler and then use a crack isolation membrane.
(Ditra is my preference, comes in 1/8, 1/4 and heating wire support styles)


I would not even suggest taking the chance that it could hold you up to stand on it. Think of the possible serious injury that could result if it were to break and give way when you were standing on it.

You would do well to just move the desk out away from the wall and use a step ladder or stool of some sort to get up to the area where you intend to hang the pictures.


Is it safe to drill in this sliding door frame?

If there are wooden 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s behind the metal door frame, then you will not need anchors. I would use 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" wood screws. With a small enough drill for a pilot hole only for the screws you are going to use, drill a hole in the metal and continue to a depth of 2" from the surface of the metal. If there is wood behind, you should get wood shavings out the hole or clinging to the drill bit.

If drilling this pilot hole reveals substantial wood members behind the metal, enlarge the hole in the metal with a larger bit to allow free passage of the screws through the metal. You do not want the screw threads to engage both the metal and the wood (if there is an air gap between the metal and wood behind) because this could deform the metal.

When tightening down the screw to secure the bracket, do not tighten past snug (do NOT over-tighten) because this could deform the metal, if there is an air gap between the metal and a wood member behind.


Why does my electric furnace sometimes blow cold air?

When the thermostat stops calling for heat, the furnace will turn the electric heating coils off, but allow the fan to continue blowing air until the coils cool down. Maybe the sensor that turns the fan off is not working and allows the fan to continue blowing too long.


What could I use as a metal body for my DIY wind turbine?

Looks to me like a standard 5 gallon plastic bucket, with lid could be cut with a hole for the fan shaft in the bottom and a slot for your mounting pipe on the side. Once mounted, cover the slot w plastic and screw or pop-rivet in place. Wiring will need another hole.
Sun might make the bucket brittle in 5 years, but even with thin metal, you're going to need to do occasional maintenance.


What prevents rain or snow from going down a concentric vent?

My tankless water heater (80% efficient, with stainless steel style vent) does indeed use a condensate drain in its venting system.  This was required to comply with local codes and the follow the installation instructions for my particular unit.  There is a “condensate drain tee” fitting which has a small hose nipple on the side, to which a condensate drain system is attached.

The higher efficiency tankless water heaters, e.g., the 95%+ efficiency units, are condensing units and also cool down their exhausts enough to be able to use plastic vent material (such as PVC) will have condensate drains built in to them.  I would guess rainwater that falls down into the vent, much like condensate, would safely exit the unit through the condensate drain.
I would recommend reading your water heater installation instructions, and checking with local installation codes to make sure you are installing yours correctly.  The instructions and codes may indeed call for condensate drain, which would collect rain water.
I’ve seen elbows installed on the end of some plastic vents - presumably to make it tougher for rain water, birds, or small vermon to get in.  Follow whatever the installation instructions and local codes say, and you’ll be fine.  No need to reinvent the wheel.


What to look at first when when circuit breaker that fridge is on is tripping?

The simplest, cheapest, and fastest test would be to swap the wire into the fridge breaker with another one of the same rating.  (Turn off both breakers first.)  This would test if the breaker has "de-rated" itself.  That sometimes happens as they age.  If the swapped arrangement doesn't trip, replace the (original) refrigerator breaker.

The next easiest step is probably to measure the current used by the circuit.  The easiest place to do that is in the breaker box with a clamp on current meter.  This would reveal whether the refrigerator is consuming more power than it is rated for—if you compare the reading with the ratings plate on the fridge.  If it is too high, first make sure someone hasn't violated the prime rule of a fridge circuit:  it should be the only device on the circuit.


Paint peeled on fascia board, how to get paint to stick?

Paint will not stick to silicone.
You will need to sand it all off, be sure you do not leave any silicon on the board.
If you need to do more patching use an exterior Vinyl patching compound
Patch, sand , prime   and paint.


What type of screws would work best for hanging a projector from the ceiling?

I'm assuming your projector isn't terribly heavy, so...

2 1/2" gold construction screws should work fine to hold the board to the joists. I also like to use decking screws because of their strength and color.  They both have small enough heads that shouldn't stick out once they are tightened.  I think that larger fasteners like lag bolts just aren't warranted for this project.

The 2 1/2" screws should end up going into the joist about 1 1/4".  If you use a thicker board for support, you might want to bump up to 3" screws.  Try to get more than an 1" into the joist.

Since this is interior, and not a large span to tremendous weight, pine or MDF should be fine.  MDF will be easier to work with because it will not be warped or twisted.  I used it to mount my TV to the wall.

Any wood screw that goes into the full thickness of the mounting board should be fine to hold up the projector mount. Even if the screws are a little long, they will just poke into the drywall a bit, which will be fine. Use a screw as thick as possible based on the holes in the mount, and use as many screws as you have holes for.


Let's make a few assumptions to be clear about the situation.

A 300 lb. person stepping down at a conservative maximum of 2 g's (600 lbs. of force)
Load split between at least two supporting members
No more than 80% load on any one member
No additional load from other persons

This means that any one member should be able to handle a load of 480 lbs. plus a safety factor.

In my experience* with SPF lumber, screws of fair quality pull out before they break, except when experiencing repeated bending stress due to displacement of the joined members. This means that in the case of a well-fastened framing member, no significant movement should occur.

In my estimation, a member fastened into SPF lumber using four 3" screws (where penetration into the supporting member is at least 1-1/2"), and which is supported against rotation through being fastened to an overlaying member, will carry around 500 lbs. without undue risk of failure.

This is too close for comfort with your requirements. I'd go to six screws, recognizing that this may be challenging with your stair cleats. I'd also look for a heavier screw, say in a #12--pullout strength increases exponentially with screw diameter/thread area. Piloting to prevent cracks is key, and vertical staggering is also important.

So for our 450 lb. load, 12 screws or more would be adequate to support each plane. Again, it's not the strength of the screw that's our weak link, but pullout in fairly soft lumber. With that in mind, consider going with three or four 5/16" or 3/8" lag screws per member instead. You'll need fewer and have more peace of mind.

* As a guy who's built a whole lot of stuff over the last four decades but done little engineering calculation


Remove shower enclosure for tiling but keep shower base only

Your picture from the internet is nice large shower with a square inside corner. Your existing shower is much smaller with a round inside corner, a real trick to set backer and tile for a novice tile setter. To minimize the round corner, you could go to "seat height" then set backer into the corner, but you will not be getting any larger shower, it will still be the same size as before, no way to enlarge it, the pan sets the size for the shower.

If you do wish to proceed, the base is typically a separate piece from the sides. It might come loose easily if the sealant does not grip too tightly.


Floor heat cables under linoleum flooring?

What you're referring to as Linoleum is probably vinyl.  At room temperature, it's fairly solid and the good stuff will bridge minor variations in the surface without it showing through.  By minor, I mean shallow embossed texture in the surface of the layer below, or thin grout lines between tiles.  Even at room temperature, heat ribbon is likely to eventually show through because the vinyl slowly conforms to the surface.

When you warm it, the vinyl softens and becomes flexible and stretchy.  In fact, warming the vinyl is a trick for getting it to conform in a problem area during installation, or for getting vinyl planks to stay together when some irregularity underneath pushes them apart.  If you lay heat ribbon directly under the vinyl rather than embedding it in a smooth surface, the vinyl will conform around it and the ribbon will show on the surface.

If you don't want to embed the heat ribbon in another layer, you may be able to accomplish the result with radiant heating film.

There are a number of versions.  In general, it comes in rolls of fairly wide, thin, flat plastic film.  Sandwiched inside the film is a resistive layer.  You make the electrical connections at the wall and hide it with molding.

Doing this under the floor adds a lot of delay from the time you turn it on until the heat gets through the floor and starts warming the room.  An alternative with much faster heating is to use the film on the ceiling and paint over it to hide it.  The sensation of using it that way is a little like having a heat lamp in the ceiling; your head will feel a lot warmer than your feet.


How do you store a magnetic base and a dial indicator to prolong their life and retain accuracy?

Storing the mag base "off" is equivalent to storing it "on" attached to a thick ferrous item - "off" is "magnetically attached to itself internally." Either is fine. This serves the same function as a "keeper" bar for a plain permanent magnet. A thin surface (sheet metal) is not as good, and "on" but not attached to anything risks weakening the magnet over time.

Orientation during storage does not matter.

Leaving the dial indicator out is going to vary with local hazards - are you likely to knock into it if it's just sitting there? - Then put it away. Putting it away is standard in a multiperson shop, but your home shop practices can vary with your level of care.


How do I improve hot water pressure from a gas combination boiler?

I'm in the UK, we got a new recently due to the rebate recently offered on really old boilers.

If you get a decent boiler it provides savings because it is more efficient. They are called "condensing" combination boilers - the condensing action reclaims lost heat, I think.

We got a Vaillant, who also make the glow-worms.  Never heard of Ferroli.  And yes we get decent hot water pressure. I would check with a few plumbers/gas engineers, just get a few quotes, and also check the boiler specification for max flow rate.

Couple of tips if you do get a new boiler be sure to specify exactly where the pipes go (if you change location), get one of the remote controls (very handy, and allows you to put boiler in loft), and also specify exactly how you want the magnaclean device fitted (collects sludge from central heating). Ours is unfortunately very prominent - we need to move it.

Also, we went for a really big powerful boiler, so more than enough water but tbh probably a bit too big for our house: bigger may not necessarily always be better.

I'd only get vaillant, glowworm, or worcester-bosch, btw.


What do I do with a lighter that doesn't light?

Throw it away and get a new one.
This is a "default" answer, also given by Tyler Durden as a comment, but other answers (including those discussing safe/environmentally responsible disposal) are welcome.


Hardware recommendations for heavy beam mounted to wall

I think your choice of 5/16" size lag screws, 2-1/2" long, is fine.  I would say 3/8" is overkill but if you just like the look of the bigger fastener, it would be fine.
I'd actually use something a little smaller, but longer - 1/4" size, and 3" long. (And washers, whatever size you use, I'd use washers.)  One of those is adequate to support 90#.  I'd also drill a pilot hole, 3/16" bit works well for 1/4" fasteners in most wood.


How do I interpret the type of steel used in a tool?

There are many types of standards which provide Steel Grades. The one you mentioned seems to be of SAE Steel Grades.

  400  --> is a 400 series steel

  C    --> has Carbon

  C    --> has Chromium

All steels of 4xx are usually Molybdenum steels and have Ni and Cr apart from Carbon