I'll use this gif from my other answer, to try and describe how the system works. I'll focus only on the heating side, just to keep things simple.

When the thermostat is not calling for heat, the circuit is open and electricity cannot flow. Once the temperature in the room drops below the set point, the switch in the thermostat closes. When the switch is closed, electricity can flow through the control circuit.

Electricity flows from one side of the transformer, out to the thermostat on the R wire. It flows through the switch in the thermostat, and back out along the W wire. It then flows through the coil of the heating relay, and back to the other side of the transformer (C). When electricity flows through the relay coil, it moves the switch in the relay from the normally closed (NC) contact, to the normally open (NO) contact. When this happens, the furnace is signaled to turn on.

As you can see in the above animation, when the thermostat contact is open, electricity does not flow in the control circuit.  Once the thermostat closes, the heating relay is pulled closed signalling the furnace to turn on.

At the most basic level, a thermostat is just a switch. So it's not "sending" 24V, it's completing a circuit.


Is there an electrical problem if my voltage/metal detector alerts for the whole wall?

If you're using a metal detector maybe your wall is plaster on wire lath, there's such a thing as electric heat elements embedded in walls or maybe steel studding. You need to know what your wall construction is, and do you mean 3.5mm holes for screws?


Can I apply polyurethane to a new table?

(See my above comment) Unfinished or stained wood is best for a poly finish. Have you considered getting a clear glass top protector for your tables? 1/4" glass is pretty cheap and you can get it cut to size with a beveled edge. Affix it to table with clear adhesive pads--very cheap and easy to use. Going with glass will be MUCH LESS work and will last forever (pretty much).


Do I need to update the wiring in my bathroom to replace the gfci receptacle?

Bathrooms frequently have high wattage appliances such has high-wattage hair dryers or space heaters.  And just because YOU don't have one of these, you might eventually have a guest that brings their own.

Plan for success, and comply with the code.  And make sure and get a good name brand GFCI, as there are Chinese knockoff's out there that are known to be bad.  I was having problems with my GFCI's in a new home, and when I pilled one out chd looked up the UL listing code, I discovered that the UL number was fake, and my new home had a half dozen fake gfci's... replacing them with properly certified Leviton's solved my gfci issues...

Of course complying with the code could mean you have to run a new wire, if your existing wire isn't to code.

My rule of thumb is "things are in the code for /good/ reason, and electrical is one area never to skimp on..."  If you skimp, you can cause a fire or death...  Don't do it!

Sure, you may be grandfathered in, so what?  the code is for safety, and many many lives are lost to grandfathered old wiring.  Just having an old outlet can cause a fire.  I'm a firm beliver of periodically replacing outlets that are subjected to heavy loads.  A hair dryer, space heater, microwave, toaster, window unit, etc...  All of these draw maximum current through the plug.  As the plug ages resistance goes up.  The resistance generates heat under max loads.  That heat softend the metal contacts, so that they have less spring pressure, as well as more surface corrosion.  With time the contacts can become bad enough to start getting hot, and eventually starting a fire in the wall, a fire that may take some time to notice until it is too late.

The bathroom outlets are among the ones most subject to current related wear, the next are in the kitchen, and everywhere you plug in the vacuum cleaner, or potentially a space heater.  All of those outlets should be replaced every 10 years or so if they get routine use.  The fact you have old wiring under an old code set is your first clue that your wiring is old enough to need upgrade/replacement for safety.


How can I remove these windows for cleaning?

Raise the inner sash about 6"  and then firmly pull the top of the it toward yourself.  The spring-loaded tracks on either side will give slightly and the top will pivot inward.  You can then tilt it to the right or left and free it.

Similar process with the outer sash although there is a section of the track down lower where the ridge that keeps the sash in is missing.  Lower it to that point and pull inward from the top.

If the window doesn't come easily, you can press the track on one side or the other with your palm to make it a bit easier.

To re-install, reverse the process.  Put the outer sash in first at the bottom, press in the top.  Slide it up.  Then put the bottom of the inner sash in, tilt it upward and press the top into place.


Ways to Safely Repair 45 Degree Pitched Roof without Jacks?

You wear a harness attached to a rope that is thrown over the roof and tied to something solid such as a tree.

The harness kit may look like this:

The harness is most often used in a manner as shown here. A short connecting rope goes from the middle of the high back over to a D-Clip that then attaches to the main safety rope via a Robe Grab.

Rope grabs come in various styles (one shown below) but are basically designed to permit them to slide along the rope when they are directly pushed but will clamp tightly on the rope when pull tension is applied to the connecting ring from the D-Clip and short rope to the roofer.

This picture shows a harness in use on a roof....albeit not quite as steep as the OP has asked about.

Here is another in use application.


What is the difference between a Combination AFCI Breaker and a AFCI Breaker

From Wikipedia: (emphasis added)

  The AFCI is intended to prevent fire from arcs. AFCI circuit breakers are designed to meet one of two standards as specified by UL 1699: "branch" type or "combination" type (note: the Canadian Electrical Code uses different terminology but similar technical requirements). A branch type AFCI trips on 75 amperes of arcing current from the line wire to either the neutral or ground wire. A combination type adds series arcing detection to branch type performance. Combination type AFCIs trip on 5 amperes of series arcing.

and

  A combination AFCI breaker provides protection against parallel arcing (line to neutral), series arcing (a loose, broken, or otherwise high resistance segment in a single line), ground arcing (from line, or neutral, to ground), overload protection and short circuit protection.

So it appears that "combination AFCI" is a short way of saying "protect against more potential problems than the original AFCI devices protected."


How much heat is generated by a ceiling fan's remote control receiver?

It depends on what your remote does. Some remotes have a very low power dissipation but others with both speed and light dimming can get quite hot.
I would never use bubble wrap on an electronic circuit.
I might make a plastic umbrella above it. If water gets in the fan or lighting circuits this can be what caused the damage not only to the module itself.
I would remove the bubble wrap.


What gasket material to repair a pneumatic nail gun?

Yes, a sharp knife, cutting board, steady hand, good marking out, patience and of course suitable material.
Made gaskets for many things using paper, card, plastic etc
One source of plastic useful in the past was a milk container, but temperature is a consideration.


Alter the wiring to your left switch only slightly so it resembles this diagram:

Currently, your left switch has both the "power in" and "power to next switch" screwed to a common terminal. Add the "pig tail" and twist them together with a wire nut.

Now you can replace that switch with your timer where your "pigtail" is essentially your new power in. Your timer will likely need to be pigtailed to neutral as well.


GFCI with no loads attached and no downstream outlets trips with power restoration

I discussed this concern with the manufacturer (Pass & Seymour by Legrand) and they were able to provide me with a clear answer. The model number is 1595W3PKCC4 - and per design, upon being energized for the first time, these GFCIs are supposed to trip to test themselves. All subsequent cycling of power is not supposed to cause the GFCI to trip. It was my mistake to not validate my observation before posting my question. I have since cycled the power to these devices and they remain in the untripped state upon power restoration - so all is good. Thanks to you folks for your responses. Pass & Seymour was very helpful.


Advice on grouting wall tiles with gaps between wall and tile

I've had great results by packing string/twine into the cracks. It stays in place and gives the grout something to stick to.


What is that burning smell in transformer?

The burning smell is the insulation of the winding conductors burning and is generally indicative of irreparable damage. It may still function, for a while, but has been severely compromised. Further failure often results in flames...


What Household Items can be used to Clean Motherboards

...start with re-evaluating your perception that it "needs cleaned." Or stop smoking around your computer.

As a computer professional, I have pretty much never cleaned a motherboard. Occasionally vacuumed out dust bunnies, but I prefer to locate computers where dust bunnies are less likely to accumulate in them. I have occasionally replaced computers that users spilled things into, and if that (or smoking) is the problem, that is the path to take, not "cleaning" which will be a large time investment for unpredictable results.

What cleaners are suitable is dependent on what the factory that built it chose for a cleaning process, such that they made the components compatible with that solvent. In some modern low VOC processes soap and water and a through rinse / dry is entirely suitable. In the bad old days Freon was a common choice...


How to get proper support for a closet system from a firewall?

Two inches is an odd size for framing material. It might be a 2x4 set flat, which is actually 1 1/5 inches thick.

It is highly likely that this framing member is attached to the cinderblock at several points. If this is so, there is no issue with just attaching to the framing.

If the framing is not attached to the cinderblock, it would be significantly less sturdy than a conventional wall in which the 2x4s are set on edge. In standard framing you are attaching to an edge that runs 3 1/2 inches deep. That means your setup would be more prone to bowing, especially in the middle, under the weight of a heavy load.

There are many factors that go into whether or not that would pose a practical problem.  How heavy a load will be on the wall units? How far from the wall do the units extend? How many studs can you attach to for each mounting device or unit? How close to the ceiling and floor (the strongest areas) are the principle attachment points?

If you cannot determine whether the studs are attached to the cinderblocks, I would probably try to anchor into the cinderblocks, at least at several points, but not necessarily every point of attachment.

SUPPLEMENT

There are two forces at work in a wall hanging - downward and outward. Assuming the fastener is in a solid medium like framing wood, the downward force, shear force, is controlled mostly by the the ability of the fastener to resist being broken across its circumference. In general, standard screws and bolts are plenty strong.

The outward force is largely controlled by two things - the strength of the fastener in the support material and the rigidity of the support material. Again, standard screws or bolts in wood are up to it (these systems are designed for that). The problem, if any is the ability of the framing to stay in place.

The main support mechanism is near the top of the unit (that horizontal hanging strip), and the framing near the ceiling is fairly secure because the vertical studs are attached (hopefully) to some sort of top plate, spreading the load.

You are probably safe going into the wood. But if it were me, I would not rely on probably, and I would anchor into the blocks in at least three places along that top hanger. If they are hollow blocks, I would try to hit a hollow and use a toggle type anchor. If solid, an expanding masonry anchor.


Based on comments, you want to install an unswitched outlet next to the switch. Since you have confirmed that you have neutral in the box, that should be straightforward:

Unless the circuit is already GFCI protected, you MUST use a GFCI receptacle. The following is based on a typical GFCI receptacle.
Add two pigtails on the incoming hot wire with a wire nut. Connect one to the switch (where the incoming hot was previously connected) and one to the hot screw on the LINE side of the receptacle.
Add a pigtail to the neutral bunch and connect it to the neutral screw on the LINE side of the receptacle.
Add a ground wire to the rest of grounds and connect it to the ground screw on the receptacle.

Nothing goes on the LOAD side. Those terminals are covered with tape, leave the tape on there, it will save you unlimited grief.


How to disconnect air conditioner lines from outdoor unit?

Absolutely not. These lines contain a refrigerant/lubricant mix under pressure. The lines also must have no dirt, water or air in them, i.e. they have to be bled, evacuated to fairly high vacuum and refilled that way. You'd need to invest in a lot of tools specific to refrigeration to do this, e.g. a pump.


Can I run power from inside cabinets to an externally mounted fixture?

Yes, when doing in-bench or in-cabinet work like that, I am very comfortable with EMT, provided it is anchored properly and not used as a hanger for other things.


AC Plugs, different types of plugs/receptacles

One strand has "like sized" prongs/slots (I'll call this Type A) and the other size has unlike sized prongs/slots (Type B).

Your 'Type B' is properly known as a polarized plug.

It is unsafe to connect an unpolarized plug to a polarized outlet. This is because the purpose of polarization is to reduce the chance of your touching dangerous line voltage such as on the threads of an empty bulb socket; North American power has a “hot” and “neutral” wire, and the “neutral” is generally closer (but not necessarily equal) to earth potential (voltage) than the “hot”, so it is less dangerous (but still unwise to touch).

You should not grind down a pin to make it fit. Would it work, electrically? Yes. But it is removing the designed safety features.

(From a strictly technical perspective, it would be safe to plug in such an altered plug to a GFCI outlet or portable GFCI — GFCIs provide better protection against the same hazard than polarized plugs. But then you would still have an unsafe plug configuration around in the future.)

Use extension cords (of the type designed for outdoor lights) instead. This also has the advantage of ensuring you are not overloading the pass-through outlets with more strings than intended.


What type of room divider should I use to convert a dining room into a bed room?

My personal perference would be to remove the trim and floor under the opening, frame with 2x4's and then drywall.  Paint and re-trim.

The pocket door will take a little more work depending on where the hinges will be.  If the hinges will be on the side where the door slides into the wall, you will need to open the wall and re-frame that section.  If the door handle will go on that side, you can get away with filling the old pocket with a 2x4, but the wall will be stronger if you re-frame where the pocket was.  Remove the trim, order a custom pre-hung door, install door, re-trim the new door.


Short answer: Yes, but don't.

Longer answer: You probably could lash up a light fixture there (although you would need to add a wire to those already running through the stationary shaft). The problem is that unless you use a kit made by the fan manufacturer, you are going to end up with something that you do not want hanging over the head of anyone you care about.

I was an electrical engineer for 45 years and I wouldn't do it, not without a design review committee and an extensive test program. You should install only standard equipment in your home using only approved methods.

It's not so much a matter of design and function as of testing and experience. The lighting fixtures, junction boxes, outlets, switches, etc. approved for sale in your local hardware outlet represent the cumulative experience of hundreds of thousands of skilled professionals cleaning up after millions of accidents, so that you won't have to.


What should I do about my concrete shower curb that I did not remove all the air bubbles from?

Next time, tamp the cement into the corners (using a putty knife, large screwdriver, gloved finger, etc.) after a couple inches is set down.  If you wait until the form is almost full, it forms stronger bubbles and they are harder to coax out.

Structurally, the curb is more than strong enough unless you anticipate automobiles driving over it.  The major issue is adequate structural support for the finishing material.

If you will be tiling the curb, the thinset is plenty strong enough to support the tile if worked into the gap and corner well.  So there would be nothing more to do.

If you will be putting vinyl, etc. over it, the mastic would not be strong enough, so the curb should be smoothed out with concrete filler.


Raising a sunken living room floor and concerned about moisture under new raised floor

Here's what my builder was supposed to do with a similar situation - new living space built over an existing concrete slab for a garage.

1) Fill with crushed, well draining stone

2) Lay down  6 mil vapor barrier on top of the stone

3) Pour 4" concrete slab up to 1-1/2" below the level of the existing concrete block.

4) Install 2x8 floor joists

5) Insulate between the floor joists

6) Install subfloor

7) Install final flooring


How can I reduce the vibration noise in new corrugated tubing connected to my sump pump?

You might try insulating a section of the pipe with foam insulation.Then try to mount that to something solid like a section of 2x4.


Leviton GFCIs constantly trip on shaded pole motors

Anytime you plug in any appliance and it trips a GFCI the odds are that the appliance is not working properly. The easy test is to find another GFCI in somewhere like the kitchen and plug in your unit and see if it trips the device. I really can't speculate why the waterpik is tripping the device but you might see if any moisture is getting into the electrical area of the device and open it up and try to dry it out. Otherwise I recommend that you just replace it or return it under warranty.

Good luck


Washing machine won't turn on - loose connector on PCB - how and where do I reattach it?

I think you are trying the wrong location entirely.
That appears to be an edge connector [ it clips over the edge of a PCB ], and at first I thought the spot where it goes is on the lower right of the 3rd picture and the lower left of the last picture. But I don't think that is correct, looking closer.
It only goes on one way - the slot cut between the connector pads matches a divider between pins - but the position of the slot [7 pins one side, 1 pin on the other, while the plug has 3 pins on one side, 5 on the other] does not add up, and the closed end of the plug (up in your second picture) requires either another slot or a set of pads at the edge of the board it clips to.

So, you're looking for a different 8-pin edge connector on the PCB, but it'll have a divider between pins 3 and 4.


Junction box for different unit's circuit

You can have a box and it may be required depending on number of bends. If it cannot be turned off at that location label it as such so the tenant won't try using it.


Calculating total energy savings for LED lighting

That is fundamentally correct for the time the lights are on, yes. It will depend on the specific LEDs and ballasts chosen (the ballast may or may not be part of the fixture, and some cheesy outfits try to give the lumens per watt INTO the LED itself, ignoring the watts wasted in the ballast converting from AC to DC.)

@Tester101's "wire heating" strawman (in comment) would still be affected in the desirable direction (less amperage draw for same light = less wire heating), and is insignificant for any properly sized and constructed wiring regardless of light fixture choice.

Lumens per watt of LED fixtures vary widely, still, and there are definitely still fixtures for sale which seem to be built on the belief that buyers will see "LED" and think "very efficient" without actually delivering good efficiency (inefficient LEDs presumably being cheaper than efficient ones).


What should I do with this broken toilet flange? Is it glued in?

Unless it leaks, or you have access below and want to gut the plumbing, don't touch it; just add a repair ring: (use solid 1/8" steel ones to save space, not the flimsy, flanged type which are overall larger in size; even with these you may have to shim the toilet. I find that grout fills the gap between the porcelain and tile nicely, whether or not the toilet is riding high)

Metal Toilet Flange, Quick Repair Ring (Amazon)


GFCI breaker trips, but GFCI outlet does not?

Figured it out. My mistake. The breaker has 3 slots and pig tail white wire. I assumed that I needed to run one more white wire and connect it to the middle slot and neutral bus, not just by the pig tail white wire. It turned out that I needed to connect only pig tail white wire to neutral bus. Unfortunately I misplaced the package for the breaker and did not read instructions prior to installing it.


What type of wood treatment does my garden office / summer house need?

Generally you want to treat exterior wood like this with a water-proofing treatment at least once a year. It helps to provide UV resistance and keep water out.
Water is your big enemy here. It looks like the wood was installed with some lacquer for waterproofing (hard to tell from the photo), but it's worn away. You've got a couple of options
Paint it
Paint will waterproof and make it look nice and uniform again. It sounds like you want the wood look, but as far as options go, this one is the easiest and had the fewest questions on maintenance. I mention it for completeness.
Stain and waterproof
I'm assuming you just want to work on the greyed spots. This is trickier because matching stain is difficult. Just like painting, your best bet is to stain the whole thing. The next best option is to find a stain that's close enough. Because you have a natural break in the soffit and wall, a close enough color might do the trick, and people will assume the wall just looks different due to lighting.
Then you'll want to waterproof it. This isn't a "one-and-done" either. Your wood will grey over time. The more often you waterproof it, the longer it will stay the same color. Waterproofing also helps prevent the boards from warping and splitting over time (water is your enemy there).


Do thermostats coordinate with each other in a multi-zone system?

Conventional multi-zone arrangements work independently. They don't know or care about each other. They're tuned individually to achieve the desired outcome. Sure, there's some minor inefficiency, but not usually enough to warrant extra equipment costs and complex control algorithms.

Also, such systems would be difficult for homeowners to manage and adjust on a seasonal basis. Heck, many don't even know to change their filters or how to manage humidity properly. How are they going to work sophisticated thermostatic equipment?


Preventing condensation on the inside of an exposed structural exterior brick wall

The only thing that will prevent condensation on the wall is insulating the wall (and you will need a vapour barrier inside the insulation).  Sorry.

(Technically, you can prevent condensation by reducing the moisture content of the room.  Note, by this I don't mean "relative humidity", I mean "amount of water vapour measured in e.g. g/m³".  This will either mean making the room unpleasantly arid, or unpleasantly cold, or both.)


Light fitting won't work with more than one bulb in place

Your fixture is made to use a set of 4 x 4W LED bulbs (for a total of 16W), but you're trying to use 50W halogen bulbs instead.
This is extremely unsafe, because the halogens give out orders of magnitude more heat than the LEDs do, and your fixture is not made to survive all that heat.
It's a good thing that it's "smart" enough to "see" that you're overloading it and shut down instead of just work for a while before catching fire.
You need to get some GU10 LED bulbs to use in that fixture.


Yes, it's fine to share the DC power supply, as long as it has enough capacity for the lights at absolute max power.

5050's take 1.2 amps per 60 LEDs (typically 1 metre), 0.4A per channel.
3528's take 0.4 amps per 60 LEDs (typically 1 metre).


10 AWG wire.

THWN type if in conduit.

NM type if using plastic sheathed multiconductor cable.   10 AWG is typically orange.  10/3 if it needs neutral, otherwise 10/2 and re-mark the white wire as a "hot" by wrapping it with black tape.

Many 240V heaters do not need a neutral. But if you include neutral, you may thank yourself later, because it'll give you the most versatility in terms of other things you might plug in there in the future.

You can also look at the plug for your heater and see what it requires.  Even if it doesn't require a neutral, you are perfectly welcome to run a neutral, and simply cap it off in the electrical box for future use.

You must choose. You are not allowed to put 2 receptacles on a 30A supply cable in this type of installation.  The NEMA 10-30 is bad news and should be avoided, anything that requires it, you should replace it with 14-30.


What do the color designations of wire mean?

Ungrounded "hot" conductors can be identified by any means that is not used to identify grounded "neutral", or grounding conductors. So basically if it's not white, gray, any color other than green with three continuous white or gray stripes, green, green with yellow stripes, bare, or any of the other identification methods below, it can be an ungrounded "hot" conductor.

Blue is an acceptable color for the insulation on an ungrounded "hot" conductor.

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection

  Article 200 Use and Identification of Grounded Conductors

  200.6 Means of Identifying Grounded Conductors.

  (A) Sizes 6 AWG or Smaller. An insulated grounded conductor
  of 6 AWG or smaller shall be identified by one of the following means:

  (1) A continuous white outer finish.

  (2) A continuous gray outer finish.

  (3) Three continuous white or gray stripes along the conductor's entire length on other than green insulation.

  (4) Wires that have their outer covering finished to show a white or gray color but have colored tracer threads in the braid identifying the source of manufacture shall be considered as meeting the provisions of this section.

  (5) The grounded conductor of a mineral-insulated, metal-sheathed
  cable shall be identified at the time of installation
  by distinctive marking at its terminations.

  (6) A single-conductor, sunlight-resistant, outdoor-rated
  cable used as a grounded conductor in photovoltaic
  power systems as permitted by 690.31 shall be identified
  at the time of installation by distinctive white
  marking at all terminations.

  (7) Fixture wire shall comply with the requirements for
  grounded conductor identification as specified in 402.8.

  (8) For aerial cable, the identification shall be as above, or
  by means of a ridge located on the exterior of the cable
  so as to identify it.

  Article 250 Grounding and Bonding

  250.119 Identification of Equipment Grounding Conductors. Unless required elsewhere in this Code, equipment grounding conductors shall be permitted to be bare, covered, or insulated. Individually covered or insulated equipment grounding conductors shall have a continuous outer finish that is either green or green with one or more yellow stripes except as permitted in this section. Conductors with insulation or individual covering that is green, green with one or more yellow stripes, or otherwise identified as permitted by this section shall not be used for ungrounded or grounded circuit conductors.


Can I use Type-S mortar and rock to set wood fence posts?

If that is what you have, Type S will work just fine, the trick is that the fill around the post is preferred to be harder than the dirt that the post and cement is in. If there is any "scrap" bags of cement, or concrete that even has lumps in it, that is a perfect spot to make use of it.


You only need 1 Grounding Electrode System no matter how many services, systems, or tenants you have in your building

All the grounding electrodes in a building are required to be bonded together to form a single grounding electrode system for the building, as per NEC 250.50:

  250.50 Grounding Electrode System. All grounding electrodes as described in 250.52(A)(1) through (A)(7) that are
  present at each building or structure served shall be bonded
  together to form the grounding electrode system. Where none
  of these grounding electrodes exist, one or more of the
  grounding electrodes specified in 250.52(A)(4) through
  (A)(8) shall be installed and used.

  Exception: Concrete-encased electrodes of existing buildings or structures
  shall not be required to be part of the grounding electrode system where
  the steel reinforcing bars or rods are not accessible for use without
  disturbing the concrete.

Furthermore, NEC 250.58 requires that all services feeding a structure use the same grounding electrode system:

  250.58 Common Grounding Electrode. Where an ac system is
  connected to a grounding electrode in or at a building or structure, the same electrode shall be used to ground conductor
  enclosures and equipment in or on that building or structure.
  Where separate services, feeders, or branch circuits supply a
  building and are required to be connected to a grounding electrode(s), the same grounding electrode(s) shall be used.

  Two or more grounding electrodes that are bonded together
  shall be considered as a single grounding electrode system in
  this sense.


Tying additional lights to entryway light -- does that violate any codes?

All is good safety wise and I would say common sense code wise you are good as well.  However, you have now altered that circuit and technically speaking the code says the you, because you have altered this circuit, now you have to bring the entire circuit up to code. Which means you have to replace the circuit breaker in the panel that feeds that circuit with an ark fault breaker; $40 to $50.


You need to use a backfed main with a THQLRK3 hold-down...
Your panel, unfortunately, is not compatible with the TQMH000 main breaker adapter kit you are contemplating.  This is denoted on the diagram by the box labeled "MAIN" taking up two branch breaker spaces, instead of being above the branch breaker "stack".
...or just get a larger panel
However, there's an easy way to forestall all this, and that's simply to take the panel back and get something chunkier.  Going up to a 24-space, 125A or even a 30- or 40-space panel isn't that much more expensive, and means you don't have to agonize over panel spaces nearly as much.  You won't need to replace the main breaker in the bigger panel, either, since you're fitting a subpanel.  (It's either an easy way to get the required shutoff means for a subpanel in an outbuilding, or can simply be replaced by main lugs if the subpanel is in the same building as the panel feeding it.)


Did I use my light fixture's ground wire correctly?

It sounds like this is what you're describing...

If this is indeed what you've encountered, you should remove the grounding conductor from the twist-on wire connector used to connect the white wires.

The only place grounded (neutral) conductors and grounding conductors should be bonded (connected), is at the main service disconnect.

If there are no grounding conductors in the house, it's not that big of a concern. As long as the wiring is done properly, you should have no problems at all.  If there truly are no grounding conductors in the house, connecting fixture grounding conductors will have no effect. If you're really concerned about the lack of grounding conductors, you can install combination ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) breakers in the service panel.

This sentence also has me concerned...

I cannot use the metal ceiling box that was being used with the ceiling fan. I can only use the bracket, which is currently screwed into place, right into the "hole" in the ceiling.

Are you saying that the new light fixture is not installed in an electrical box?

If this is the case, you should correct that issue as well.  All electrical connections must be made inside an approved, listed and labeled enclosure.


Upgrading 30 amp to 50 amp for RV service

What @Harper said. The problem we have have with a question like yours is that we could say "yes you could update it" but we really don't know is what kind of loads you are applying at the end of a circuit. We are guessing that it is greater than 30A because you want to upgrade. Also you give us a distance of 300' which is a substantial distance so voltage drop will surely come into play.

For example if your load is 40A at 240V which would be 9.2KVA then at a 3% Voltage Drop. Then you could run 333' with a #4. A #6 would only be good for 210'. If you load were 45A or 10.35KVA the distance with a #6 would be no longer than 186', A #4 would get you 296' so technically you would need a #3. Buy the way this is all in copper.

So you need to get distances and loads for the pump either in HP or KVA and voltage requirements and a demand load for the rv either in Amps or KVA and operating voltage. Then there could be a more complete and informed answer.


What can I use to lubricate CAT6 cables while installing them?

When someone says soap you have to take in consideration their experience. They may very well mean soap, as it is slippery and would probably work. If, however, they're from the electrical/low voltage field they more likely mean Yellow-77 - or a similar variation available today. A gel-ish type is what you'll likely find at a big-box store. Personally, I prefer the yellow stuff, but I'm old-school like that.

I doubt sex lube is what you want. It's probably expensive and not really the consistency you're looking for. But it might work well enough if you've got an abundance laying around.

Ideal : Yellow77

When applying a pulling lube don't fall into the trap of thinking the entire wire must be saturated with the stuff. You shouldn't need much more than an initial amount on the head. It will work to coat the path for the following wire. This is why using the proper lube is beneficial. It's consistency works for you.


New electrical service to detached ADU/garage

Normally, you wouldn't be able to do as you describe

Normally, a carriage-house ADU setup (with the ADU atop a garage space) is set up on the only garage on the property, with use of the (detached from the main house) garage shared between the main unit and the ADU. Were that the case in your situation, your proposal would be no good, even though your utility's metering rules are silent about separate metering vs. master metering, as it would involve serving what effectively can be treated as a common area of a two-family or multifamily dwelling (the garage, shared between both/all units on the property) from equipment that serves an individual dwelling unit (the ADU), which violates the intent of NEC 210.25(B), if not the letter:

  (B) Common Area Branch Circuits. Branch circuits installed
  for the purpose of lighting, central alarm, signal, communications, or other purposes for public or common areas of a two-family dwelling, a multifamily dwelling, or a multi-occupancy
  building shall not be supplied from equipment that supplies an
  individual dwelling unit or tenant space.

Since that's not your situation, though...

Thankfully, in your case, the main house has its own attached garage, separate from the ADU's garage, which eases things significantly, as it allows us to treat this in a fashion much closer to what you describe, which is basically a detached duplex configuration, with each dwelling-unit/garage combination being served and metered separately, but with the garages treated as part of their respective dwelling units.

This makes your existing plans for the ADU much more feasible.  Load-wise, your ADU comes out to a conservative 102A of load using the Article 220 procedures, given:

800 sf of ADU at 3VA/ft2
3 20A small appliance branch circuits (2 kitchen, 1 laundry)
an 8kVA range allowance (good for ranges up to 12kVA)
a 5kVA allowance for an electric dryer
a 4.5kVA allowance for an electric hot water heater
and a 1.5ton, 13 SEER air conditioner outdoor unit (9A @ 230VAC).

With this, we add 3600VA for the currently proposed RV receptacle and another ~800VA (2400VA at 35%) for lighting in the garage, which puts us just shy of 125A, well within what your 200A service can handle.

Equipment-wise, I would use a 200A meter-main on the outside of the ADU/garage that is configured with a single main disconnect feeding a small (8 spaces is common) panel.  This provides enough room for a separate shutoff for the ADU feeder by itself, as well as shutoffs for the garage and RV-bay feeders, while allowing a 200A feeder to the ADU, if so desired.  Since your utility's metering rules are silent on whether to use ring-style vs. ringless metering hardware, and the approved meter socket list specifies both ring-style and ringless sockets, I would speak with the utility for details.

If you insist on separate metering of the RV bay, then we can use a WEP2212EV with the 200A portion feeding a tap (in a 2" RMC nipple) to a 125A panel for the garage as well as providing the main 200A feeder to the ADU, and the 50A portion providing a separate feed to a RV-panel box in the RV bay.

As to the subpanels: GO BIG OR GO HOME

The key number with panels more often than not is not how many amps a panel can handle (a 125A panel is more than adequate for anything you're doing in the garage, for instance), but how many spaces the panel has.  Considering that putting a large panel in now is far cheaper than upsizing the panel later, I would use a 200A, 40- or 42-space panel for the ADU and a 125A, 24- or 30-space panel for the garage.  Both of these can be main lug or main breaker panels at your leisure (unless the garage is on a feeder tap; in that case, the garage panel must be main breaker in order to protect the feeder tap and busbars properly), since they are being fed with feeders from the meter-main/meter-pack hardware outside, and can be of whatever current make and model you wish.

Your plan to run a fat PVC conduit for the feeder to the ADU is wise; however, you'll need to LB it from the wall into the back of the meter-pack/meter-main box, and perhaps use a reducer to narrow it down to 2.5" or even 2" for the nipple connecting the LB to the meter-pack, depending on the size of the knockouts available on the meter-pack/meter-main you are using.  (This isn't an issue from a fill standpoint since nipples <24" long are permitted to use 60% of the available conduit space, vs. 40% for longer runs.)

ADU panel placement

The ADU subpanel needs to be accessible at all times to the ADU occupants, as per NEC 240.24(B)(2):

  (2) Branch-Circuit Overcurrent Devices. Where electric service and electrical maintenance are provided by the building
  management and where these are under continuous building
  management supervision, the branch-circuit overcurrent devices supplying any guest rooms or guest suites without permanent provisions for cooking shall be permitted to be accessible
  only to authorized management personnel.

Given that the garage is effectively being treated as part of the ADU here, putting the panel for the ADU in its attached garage is not an issue; however, there can be merit to having it in a space which is less likely to be blocked by storage or other items, as such blockages violate NEC 110.26(B):

  (B) Clear Spaces. Working space required by this section shall
  not be used for storage. When normally enclosed live parts are
  exposed for inspection or servicing, the working space, if in a
  passageway or general open space, shall be suitably guarded.

This brings us to your plan to locate the panel at a stairway landing; this is acceptable, as 240.24(F) only prohibits locating a panel over steps of a stairway, but does require the landing to be large enough to fit the entire clear floor space required by 110.26(A).

RV provisions

While it's certainly possible to simply have a TT-30 receptacle in a regular junction box wired to a 30A, 1-pole breaker in the meter-main or the garage panel to serve the RV, I would instead run a 50A feeder from the meter-main to a dedicated, surface-mounted RV box.  This provides enough room for upgrading to a 50A RV receptacle later, and just enough room to tuck a 60VA(W) lighting load into the picture, even with the RV receptacle maxed out (we're exploiting the 220.5(B) rounding rule here, but you probably aren't going to be maxing out the RV load in the bay with the lights in the bay on, no?).

That RV box, at the moment, will need to have at minimum a TT-30 receptacle (for your current RV) and a spare space that can accept an appropriately typed 15A AFCI breaker (for the RV bay lights); a Talon TL37US with a Q115AF for the lights will do the trick here, and provide a 20A duplex GFCI for general use within the RV bay as well.


It is normal for there to be a gap between the brick veneer and the base wall.  For the situation you describe, I recommend you consult and insulation specialists/contractor. That is their business.  With proper insulation and sealing you could save thousands of dollars and live far more comfortably in the years to come.


Have you checked to make sure you don't have a hole in your ductwork that is pulling moist air into your home?  If you A/C is a "package unit" especially, you must determine the integrity of the ductwork, especially the large diameter hoses that connect the unit to the house.  If there's a breach, you could be pulling in too much humid air from outside which can cause the evaporator coils to freeze up.  Many units sense that the coils are still cold and will automatically run the fan until the temperature comes up.  In this case, the evaporator fan will tend to cycle on and off or simply run continuously in an attempt to disperse the cold air.


Is it possible to have a pond that doesn't require a pump for circulation?

A google search for "solar powered fish pond filters" shows many sources. Since you didn't mention the size of your pond or geographic area I didn't make any specific suggestions. But there is a wealth of info and products out there.


Mounting a Projector on a joist - Is Joint Integrity still ok?

You have not weakened the joist in any meaningful way. Even if you had run half inch lag screws into it, the remaining material is more than adequate.


Either build in, or build out.

Out will cause less disruption, normally. Exterior Insulation and Finish System (EIFS) is a generic term for the typical approach, which consists of applying insulation (typically foam board) and a protective finish (typically stucco.) This is quite common in commercial construction.

Building in will reduce the size of your rooms and require all rooms with an exterior wall to become construction sites as the work progresses. Additional work will be needed to extend any electrical (switches, receptacles), plumbing fixtures or HVAC vents from the old walls to the new walls. It will probably cost more, as well.

If the house is "historic" you may have additional considerations/restrictions.


What kind of crimping tool do I need for these bullet-style cable connectors?

tl;dr: Get a pair of HS-40J -type crimping pliers.
(This answer partially relies on information in @JACK's and @ThreePhaseEel's answers.)
Here's the kind of plier jaws which should work for you:

this type of jaws, and pliers, is named HS-40J. You'll notice the color-coding - but also the cross-section area, in square millimeters, listed:

0.25-1.0 mm^2 - Green
1-1.5 mm^2 - Red
2.5 mm^2 - Blue
4-6 mm^2 - Yellow

It is customary to have wire connectors obey this color coding, e.g.:

Other jaw sets - even from the long list you posted - may also work, depending on the cross-section area, but sometimes they have weird target shapes.
You will need to figure out the cross-section of your wire - not your connector - and crimp around the wire, accordingly. Specifically, the 4mm connector diameter is not the number you need to use. Please follow the rule: "Measure twice, cut^H^H^Hcrimp once"...
Here's how a full pair of pliers looks, with typical dimension and weight:


You can get the smaller refrigerator, and use the extra space to create shelves for bootles. this way you could have refrigerated wine and not refrigerator next to each other.

The shelves would be made to hold individual bottles.

Like this:


Should additional bed slats fit over or around the existing spacer blocks?

Option 1 looks good - you could screw them into position or fit spacers between.
Consider spacing the slats so they match the pocket springs...
Another possibility is to put a board over the slats then there would be no gaps.


Grout has gone hard and I have not finished can I add something to it to soften grout to finish the job

No.  Grout is basically a form of concrete.  If this technology existed then when the government needed to redo roads they would just add this magical potion and road would be redone.  A small batch of grout mixed properly only has a usable time of a few hours.  Once it even gets even a little stiff it is done.


TriangleTube Smart 30 digital thermostat

Depending on your boiler, you can at least see the DHW called temperature on your boiler display. I have the Smart 30 water heater coupled with a Triangle Tube Prestige Solo boiler, and on its display, under the various info items, I can see the DHW temperature. I'm guessing that will be the closest you can get with this specific setup.


What is the most reliable way to install transitions and molding for laminate flooring on concrete flooring?

Most of them come with steel channels that you'd fasten with plastic anchors or other concrete fasteners. The moldings press into the channels.

A technique for moldings without channels is to drill 1/2" holes in the concrete, plug them with treated wood dowels, and simply nail down the molding.


You'll need an onsite review by a structural engineer to determine the answer.

Old houses can and are framed in many different ways and there are no rules (unless this house has been updated with pre-manufactured trusses). Often ceiling joists bear on walls when the roof rafters do not. Also, there are often intermediate framing members for bracing of the roof rafters that bear on walls, and there is no pattern and at times can be almost random. Further, the roof members will not 'calc out' meaning that they surely will be considered undersized when using current material strengths, properties and codes, and you do not want to do anything that increase the load or decreases the strength.

A structural engineer will review all the available information and give you the answer. I suggest hiring a smaller firm for better fee rates.


GFIC outlet indicator light is green but no power in the circuit

If you don't have a non-contact voltage tester you should buy one to help solve this problem.
Start at the breaker and make sure it is on for the problem circuit. Remove the faceplate of the GFCI and carefully check for voltage on the "Line" side of the GFCI. Assuming there is voltage on that side now check the "Load" side of the outlet. If the green light is on you should have voltage there as well. If you do, continue downstream carefully checking each outlet as you go. Remember the circuit is live.
The problem will probably be in the first outlet with no power or possibly in the cable between the last outlet with power and the one with no power. Once you find it, shut down the power back at the breaker. Check the GFCI to make sure you have turned off the correct breaker and there is no power in the circuit. Then  check the connections to the outlet particularly the pigtail. A loose pigtail at that point would be the prime suspect. In these cases the problem is typically something basic like a loose connection. If this is the outlet where the hair dryer was plugged in and the connections on the outlet and the pigtail are all tight, I would replace the outlet. They are inexpensive and not worth fooling with.
Turn on the breaker and test for power again. My guess is you will have power at this point. If not, the problem, unfortunately, is going to be in the cable between the GFCI and the first non-working outlet. In which case it might be time for an electrician.
Edit
Forgot to mention backstabs. Check for them. They are notorious for arcing and failing. Alaways better to attach wires securely with the contact screws.


How do I connect a 1/2" PVC slip joint to a 3/8" compression fitting on a sink faucet?

Glue a 1/2" slip x FIP adapter into the PVC fitting (this requires a short piece of PVC pipe also).
Thread a 1/2" MIP x 3/8" comp. adapter into the FIP fitting (use teflon tape on the threads.

NOTE- pictures are for reference of fitting type and may not link to the size(s) you need.


upgrade circulator pump in closed hot water heating system?

The Maximum head of the pump is not to push the water up to the radiators, it is to overcome the friction loss of the flow of the water in the system. The installed pump should be large enough for your heating system. The water in the system is held up to the highest radiator by the water pressure in the system (look at the pressure gauge mounted somewhere on the boiler) A rule of thumb is 12 psig for a 1 story house, 15 psig. for a 2 story house and 20 psig for a 3 story house. Turn the boiler system off, go to the highest rad and open the vent. If you get water out then the pressure on the boiler is okay.If you can't get the temperature high enough check for water in the rads or baseboard units, vent all the air that may be in the heating elements. If all this fails call a boiler co. to fix the problem. One more thing, if you screw up and install too large of a pump you will get noise in the piping or radiation.


Circuit Not on Any Breaker, but Off with Main Breaker

It's not necessarily the cause of your problem, but I saw a situation just like it once:

Plug a light into the socket and see that it is "on".
One by one, turn off and on each breaker in the panel.
Go through the entire set of breakers, and the light never goes off.

Eventually discovered cause:  one circuit had been wired in a loop, with a separate breaker at each end (fortunately on the same side of the line).  Cutting off power at either end had no effect on the light; both breakers had to be turned off to shut off the power to the circuit.  (This also meant that each outlet on the circuit was providing twice the normally allowed current.)

If this is what you have, try this to find the two breakers:

Plug in the light.
One by one, turn off (but not back on) each breaker in the panel.
If the light never goes off, this isn't your problem.
When the light goes off, mark that breaker as special.
One by one, turn on the breakers that you had turned off.
When the light appears again, mark that breaker as special.

Turn everything back on again, and confirm that the light goes off only when both of the marked breakers are off.

If you are sure that this really is the cause of your problem, arbitrarily choose somewhere in the circuit that has two adjacent outlets (both should behave the same way with respect to the two breakers).

Both outlets should have a pair of wires coming in and a pair of wires going out.  Determine which pair of wires goes between the two outlets, and disconnect it at each end.

Verify that one outlet is now controlled by one breaker, and the other by the other.

Make sure that when both breakers are on, no other outlet or light is without power.

Verify that the disconnected wire has no power when all the breakers are on (I'm assuming you know how to work safely with electricity and won't be testing it with your tongue.)

If you can, remove the redundant wire.  More likely though, you will have to cut it short, and/or put marrette caps on the end of each wire.

Alternatively, rather than breaking the loop back into two separate circuits, you could disconnect the line from one of the circuit breakers, and remove or cap that line (attach a note to it saying it is the end of whichever the other breaker is).


Weird orange rust spots appearing in holes on freshly painted basement cinder blocks

The orange stain is likely an iron ochre infiltration due to high levels of iron in the soil or pre-existing iron in the cinder block. More info

The paint is simply making the orange much more visible than it was on bare cinder block.

I highly advise reading this article on basement finishing before continuing to paint your basement. You will likely have to re-paint next year because moisture is merciless and you might even cause mold issues for yourself which weren't present before.

If you really want to make the cinder block look nicer then you can try staining it. More info

Below is a picture of my basement wall which was Drylok'd about 4 years ago by the previous owner. Note: it looked like new when we moved in and it quickly went to crap.


What type of light bulb connector is this?

It looks like a G9 base for a halogen lamp.


Behind the plasterboard (drywall) it looks like it could be the metal of either  an RSJ or a Catnic. Either could have been used to support the brickwork over the window aperature. If it's a Catnic, it'll be possible to drill through, and use self-tappers to secure the blinds. If it's an RSJ, the steel will be quite thick, and will take a long while to drill holes for screws.
A drilled Catnic could have a larger hole through which you could push a drywall fitting - a longer one, so it expanded on the other side of the thin steel.
If it's an RSJ, there's also the possibility of drilling and tapping, so a bolt can be threaded into it. A very strong fixing, but maybe beyond diy.
You may be better off trying to fix into the sides of the reveal - at the very top, which may just be drywall - but needs a different blind fixture.


Is this hinged collapsible clothesline design stable enough?

Suggested construction:

This spreads the torsional load over the entire banister railing instead of stressing only the cap or top rail.
If there's any bending at the hinge, or other distortion, it will be confined to the added pieces and will leave your existing railing unaffected.


Water is coming out from shower hose every time I use water in any part of my house

Your shower valve is supposed to be able to be turned off completely. If you have a pressure balancing shower valve that will not turn off, then I suppose that lowering the pressure in one or the other of the hot or the cold line (which is what would happen if you open a valve elsewhere) could cause water to flow through the shower valve. Is the flow from the shower hot or cold water? Does the flow from the shower happen if you draw cold water elsewhere or hot water or either?

The solution would be to disassemble the shower valve and see if you can find a fault and if necessary check the adjustment of the pressure balancing.

EDIT

However, since it is some trouble to disassemble these valves you should thoroughly investigate the matter before taking that step. It has been reported that some "washerless" faucets actually use the pressure to seal and so leak when the pressure gets low. If this is what is happening with this shower valve, then you don't want to disassemble it. You need to do some testing to better define the conditions under which the shower delivers water when it is "off".


Cast iron clawfoot tub diverter faucet riser stem question: what is this called?

http://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/tub-faucets/tub-wall-mounted-faucets/randolph-morris-clawfoot-tub-faucet-with-handshower-and-porcelain-lever-handles-rm155bn-s.html
http://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/tub-faucets/strom-plumbing-tub-faucet-with-diverter-for-riser-connection-p0006c-s.html
http://www.clawfootalley.com/handshower3.html

It is your Diverter valve, and the "neck" is your male (IPS?) shower riser interface.

Out of curiosity, if this valve is supposed to mount to a slanted wall of a tub, you might be able to find some hardware parts to allow you to adapt the "standard 90" units you are finding to mount to the tub with a tapered/slanted washer type of hardware to work with the 90.

Also, you could use an intermediate riser or custom  riser with a bend in it to meet your shower head (assuming you aren't on board with using flex tubing).

From what I read, it does seem like identifying the current faucet make is a good approach since apparently there is no standard defined for what angle the tub manufacturer used, so you will have to special order something, or order what you want and pay a shop to customize it to your needs.


WiFi Thermostat, No C Terminal on Furnace

Wirenut A is where you should tap C at

Since you have air conditioning, we can pull a little trick here.  We start with the yellow Y wire from the thermostat, noting that it is connected to one wire going off to the outdoor unit (condenser) via wirenut E.  Since we know that the thermostat is putting 24VAC from R onto Y to call for compressor, we know that the other wire coming back from the outdoor unit must be a C wire to complete the circuit.  Following it, we come to wirenut A, which just so happens to be quite a convenient place to make the thermostat C-wire connection at.


How can I make a 240 volt 4 wire to 3 wire extension/adapter cord?

To do this properly, You'll likely have to run a new circuit.  Since you haven't posted the make, model, or nameplates of the equipment, it's impossible to say for sure if these two devices can be on the same circuit. If they can, the solution is to extend the circuit using approved methods and materials. If they can't, the solution is to run a new circuit.
As for making an extension cord, that's not the best option.  Extension cords are for temporary use only, and should not be used in place of permanent wiring.

WARNING:
Using an extension/adapter cord like this is dangerous, and can lead to loss of property and/or life. This is a theoretical device, that should never exist.  DO NOT make, use, or even think about a device like this.

 If you're dead set on making and extension/adapter, you'll want to use proper sized conductors and protect the cable from physical damage.

 Since you're plugging it into a 50 ampere circuit, you'll have to size the conductors to be able to carry 50 amperes. This is not typically the way it's done, but this is not a typical solution.  If the A/C overloads, you don't want the cord bursting into flames. So since the overcurrent device is set to 50 amperes, you'll have to have appropriately sized conductors.

 A safer option would be to build a smaller overcurrent device in to the adapter, to protect the cord and A/C unit. In this case you'd have 50 ampere conductors attached to a NEMA 14-50 plug, with the other end of the conductors connected to some form of 30 ampere overcurrent protection. Then from the 30 ampere overcurrent protection, you'd run 30 ampere conductors to a NEMA 6-15 receptacle. Then you could plug the A/C into the 6-15 receptacle.

WARNING:
Using an extension/adapter cord like this is dangerous, and can lead to loss of property and/or life. This is a theoretical device, that should never exist.  DO NOT make, use, or even think about a device like this.
The safest option would be to install a new panel, and have it being fed by the conductors that are currently feeding the 14-50 receptacle.  Then you can branch to each of the devices from the panel, using proper methods and materials.


Why is my toilet tank filling too slowly?

With a new fill valve, the slower filling could be a result of either:

a different fill valve itself
blockage in or a failing cutoff valve outside the toilet
debris in the fill valve from not purging water through the valve during the install

New styles may fill slower to reduce the effect of large pressure swings when flushing the toilet (no more screaming from the shower after every flush). If this is your problem, then it's "working as designed."

When operating any cutoff valve, there's always the possibility that it will fail, particularly with the old gate valves. Many have been moving to the quarter turn ball valves for the shutoffs within the home due to their increased reliability.

The most likely cause of a slow fill is not completely purging the fill valve during installation. After all the internals have been connected, there is usually a step to open the top of the fill valve with the water turned off. On one of the more common fill valve styles, this requires the float to the lifted up while pressing down on the top of the fill valve and then give it a quarter turn like you would a medicine bottle. With the cap off, you clean and set aside any small parts, put a cup over top of the fill valve, and turn on the water supply for 15 seconds. The cup is to keep the geyser from shooting all over the bathroom and stay inside the toilet. You then reassemble the valve with the above procedure in reverse.

For the overfill pipe, the only position inside the toilet that matters for this is the height. It needs to be below any openings inside the toilet tank (e.g. a gap in the back or an opening for the flush handle), and then you adjust the float to stop below the overflow. I tend to give myself between 1/2" to a 1" margin of safety for each of these heights. Then the refill hose goes into the overflow tube. The fill valve sends water two directions, most out of it's base into the tank, and the rest out the refill tube to refill the toilet bowl itself. If you remove this refill hose, the bowl will not refill and you'd get sewer gasses coming out the toilet when the water level drops the slightest bit.


Horizontal Electrical Outlet - How to Rough?

Sideways mud rings
I'm fairly sure that what your installers did to get the horizontal receptacle effect was to take a 4S (4" square) box (or another square box) and then mount a matching 1-gang mud ring on the square box so the 1-gang opening in the mud ring is horizontal, not vertical.


Where can I find replacement stops for a shower faucet?

I'd say Screw It. That is, I haven't found any glue to be permanent & have had fantastic results only with screws. Screws for plastic that are coarse threaded are the best. Find tiny screws, coarse or fine thread, & pre-drill homes for them slightly tinier than the screw's threads, you'll need a precision or eyeglasses screw driver to seat them...I'd do both the crack & the split. And, still crazy glue it just before your screws re-join everything for a good as or better than new stop. Then, you'll also have a solid part to even make a joint compound mold & make your own new stop...it's just plastic & any PVC or ABS would do. I'd even bet you could quite easily make your own out of a thick metal washer with some very careful jig-sawing & drilling, it ain't gotta be pretty it just needs to last.


Connecting 240 volt generator to Main Panel

The floating neutral is good news, but you don't need a ground rod for this

The fact that your generator has a floating neutral is actually quite fortunate for you, as breaker-interlock-based transfer setups are largely incompatible with generators that have bonded neutrals (the more common case).  However, since you're plugging your generator into your house, which already has a grounding electrode system (ground rods, etc), you don't need to add a ground rod at the generator, as the house supplies both the grounding electrodes and the neutral-to-ground bond point.

As to the inlet, since it's your main panel, you can land both wires on the same bar

A common "shortcut" in main panels (esp. in residential work) is to slobber all the neutrals and grounds onto the same bar, since that's where neutral and ground meet.  Since most panels where this is done don't have separate ground bars fitted to begin with, you're left with little choice but to continue this practice, unless you wish to buy a ground bar kit for your specific make and model of panel and add a separate ground bar.


What can I do about a gas pipe that is in my way?

As Tester101 mentioned, a flexible hose is not suitable for concealing in the wall.

Similar to plumbing that is in the way, the pipe needs to be re-routed and moved.  Depending on your location, this might be something that is permitted by the home owner or it might require a licensed technician to complete.

Unlike water where a small leak is unlikely to kill anyone, an incorrectly plumbed gas line can be deadly and as a result, unless you have experience working with gas lines, it is best and safest to call someone in to complete this for you.


Need help designing a circuit layout and wiring diagram for a garage

Breaker

Be certain you are using a double-pole 20A or two handle-tied 20A breakers for your 12/3 multiwire circuit.

Share the load, Frodo!

What I have drawn can essentially share your potential loads equally between your two branches if you wire half the garage receptacles to the LOAD side of one GFCI and the other half to the LOAD side of the second GFCI. I would focus on splitting up the two workbench receptacles between the two branches since they're likely to see the most load with power tools, etc.

Lighting

You can opt out of splitting your lighting if you'd like because your lighting load should be minimal. I drew it as split just for further example.

I also drew both light switches in a single junction box. This obviously will be determined more by where you want to physically locate the switches. However, the two gang box works well to handle the wire and wirenut fill that I drew. Again, this can be distributed depending on where you locate your switches.

Diagram

It's no work of art, but I hope I made it understandable.

Neutrals are dashed lines.
Grounds are implied. (don't forget them!)


How strong are bolts compared to welding and what qualities to look for in foundations?

Unless your holes match the bolt size very precisely (like, you have to hammer the bolts home), you will get racking, which will weaken the joint over time. Likewise, the bolts will loosen up (use lock washers and check it frequently). It's something you'll have to watch for; as the holes get stretched, you'll need to figure out what to do. Think about how thin the piece of metal between the holes and the edge of the piece is; that's the weak point, strain-wise.

Also, a freestanding wall is going to be a tremendous strain on the footings, especially with someone (or a pack of neighborhood kids) scrabbling around at the top of it. A person can throw their weight around to the tune of 5x actual weight. At a distance of 10'-15' that is tens of thousands of ft-lbs on the bolts, and any weakening in the joint will make things worse and worse.

If you can arrange it, build it as an A-frame (climb the sides of the 'A') with at least four footings to reduce the mechanical advantage the climber has over the footings; think of a playground swing. Otherwise, it doesn't matter how strong the wall is, the whole thing may tip over or may be yanked down or ripped off its moorings.

Given that people's safety is at risk, you probably should consider consulting with a professional structural engineer. The strain strength of steel under sudden load is much smaller than you'd expect.


Slight sewage smell in basement and sump pump

I am Guessing this a sewage pit/ sump Based on the size and that there are 2 pipes and in that case it should be sealed and there should be a gasket under the lid. I have seen pits with a float and a stick that were not a tight seal and when a toilet flush or running water there was a smell until the pump kicked in. I installed a internal sensor that measured the distance to the water level where the stick was and eliminated the smell totally by sealing but they still had a high level indicator.


You are not supposed to secure a floating floor in any fashion, and caulking an edge may just do that. If it is a small section of floor, like a small 3X5 ft. powder room, you may get by, (not that I would put a floating floor in a powder room, this is just for example) but a larger floor, you need to use the transition or cap strip made for the laminate floor.


If you can identify that the basement dampness comes principally from the wall on that side of the house, then you may find dampness abated by creating a water/moisture barrier between the wall and ground; or at ground level, preventing run-off from entering the fissure.

If you have a dirt floor in the basement, chances are that the moisture comes up all-over, and thus sealing the wall (where you mention) will have little effect.

If the moisture is not apparently from any one wall, then all the walls maybe permeated with groundwater — or the floor could be the bigger culprit.

If basement walls show sign of moisture penetrating, then you could use DriLoc to seal them.  DriLoc must be applied to dry walls, so if the walls are always moist (not just when it rains) then you would need to bring in a heater + fan + dehumidifier to 'bake' the moisture out of a given section of wall, DriLoc it, and keep moving your 'dryer' setup to prepare and DriLoc all the walls this way.

If the floor is dirt, you will need to cover it with a moisture barrier nd then pour concrete (or similar) to seal the floor.

If you do all this, remember to leave the basement this way for a year or so before doing any further finishing down there — to be sure the fix worked completely, and/or to check for imperfections in the application of the fixes.


Is it worth it to insulate hot water PEX tubing?

It's definitely worth it if you are running new pipes or the existing pipes are easily accessible, but if you have to lift boards etc. to gain access probably not.

PEX is a very good conductor. One of it's uses is for under floor heating systems, so if you are using it for delivering hot water the it's definitely worth insulating it. This is true of copper pipe as well.


What could cause clothes to come out of the dryer with tiny burn or scorch marks?

Pop open the front panel under the door and vacuum out the lint. It collects inside the housing and pieces get drawn into the air heating elements and blown into the drum. Having nothing to do with the lint trap, this stuff accumulates because it slowly migrates through the felt drum seal.

You may have a potentially dangerous situation here. Any other type of materials that get into the cabinet will also get vacuumed up and blown through the heating elements (glowing coils) which essentially turns them into glowing embers.

The air heater has a thermal limit switch that is supposed to break power to the elements if they're overheating. This kind of overheating will brown large areas, not pinpoints.

Make this cleaning task a six month or yearly scheduled event.


How do I seal an electrical box for a ceiling fan?

I believe that insulation falling in is less of a fire hazard than air escaping through the holes during a fire.  The intent is to prevent air from flowing out into the attic space during a fire, which would create a chimney effect and continue to feed the fire oxygen.
But good news, you can achieve both with the same approach.
You want to use a fire-rated expanding foam or caulk. In the gaps within and around a ceiling box, I’d use the intumescent style of either which will expand further when exposed to heat.
Be sure to clean out any foam or caulk that works its way into the electrical box. From a code perspective, it is important to keep the volume of the box the same.
While using electrical tape to seal the holes in an electrical box is likely better than nothing, I don't suspect it will survive the heat of a fire for very long given that it is not "attached" to anything over the void of the hole.  An intumescent caulk or foam will provide a much more durable blockage to prevent not only insulation from falling in, but from air escaping during a fire (which is the bigger concern IMHO).


4 neutral wires bundled, two smart switches, how to pair neutrals

Bundled together sounds like the USA so you can run a neutral from each switch and connect them to the existing four neutrals with a red wire nut,if it's 14 AWG. A better way would be to install a neutral, white, wire from the first switch to the second switch and then from the second switch to the bundle of neutrals since you have an in and out for neutrals on each switch, provided that in and out are not backstabs but back screw clamps.


New washer overflows from the stand pipe

This situation indicates that there is a plumbing drain problem. The easiest thing to try is adding some height to the stand pipe with a coupling and a pipe section.
If you can add some detail and maybe a picture we can advise you further.


Storing ladder below subfloor in kitchen

Wow, +1 for originality, but -1 for practicality.

Usually big things (like 12’ ladders) are stored outside or in a garage. Storing it indoors will create some issues: 1) creating a solid lid that doesn’t move/warp, 2) insulation around the storage space, 3) flooring that doesn’t break when trap door flexes upon opening, 4) sealing the space when you drop the milk bottle,

Btw, when you lean a 12’ ladder up on a wall, you’ll need a ceiling height of more than 9’ or it will be too much of a angle to lean properly around counters, etc.


How do I replace a single pole light switch with a programmable timer switch?

Based on what you've shown, you should be able to wire it up like this...

However, those red Wing-Nut® twist-on wire connectors are only rated for a maximum of 6 #14 conductors. So you'll have to split up the neutrals in to two groups, and connect the groups with a pigtail between them.


How do I correctly install ceramic floor tile?

Disclaimer: I am not an expert. I have worked on about a half dozen seperate tile floors, though! These instructions are not meant for a shower wall or floor, just every day use floors like bathroom, kitchen, mudroom, etc. You should also have a decent bit of knowledge on how to use all the tools safely, and a lot of patience/time. This is not as simple as it sounds!

1) You need to lay down a layer of plywood. A half inch is good, but 3/4 in is better. IIRC, modern building code calls for 3/4 in. plywood. Screw it down and make sure there are minimal gaps. In the picture below, I had to replace a lot of plywood because some of it rotted through due to improper tiles laid before.

If you plan on any drains, toilet connections, or any other holes in the floor, try to figure out where they will be and make a approximate hole. If it's a little larger than it needs to be, it's not a big deal. Your plywood should be close but doesn't have to perfectly 100% nanometer precision fit your floor area.

Make sure your plywood doesn't move, creak, or slide around. If it does, rip it up and do it again so it doesn't. Bad subfloor = bad tile job = you fix it now, or you fix it in a few months/years.

Note: I took this picture part way through replacing the plywood.

2) Now your plywood is down. nice work! Next you will need to install something called "Hardie Board" or Cement backer board. This serves two purposes;

It is an extra layer of firm surface between plywood and tiles. Since plywood tends to have slight give (Which would cause tiles to crack), cement board goes in between and stops the slight give. By itself however, the cement board is too brittle and may not be strong enough to stretch between your joists.
It acts as a moisture barrier. For some reason if your tiles "leaked", the cement board would stop the water before it rots your plywood (Or in my case, the builders didn't use it, and I had to replace a lot of plywood).

Hardie board typically comes in two thicknesses, 1/2 in and 1/4 in. If you have only 1/2 in of plywood, I highly recommend 1/2 in hardie board. (You don't want someone to fall through the floor!). If you have 3/4 in (or two layers of plywood), the decision is yours. Try to match as close as possible with your surrounding floors.

You will need to cut your hardie board to fit as close as possible your entire floor. It is easier to cut strait lines with a masonry circular saw blade. You can use a masonry blade on a handheld jigsaw to do more precise cuts. You can also score and snap cement board. Be careful though, cement board is brittle and it can snap easily, sometimes too much! (That means start over). Also, you don't want to line up the seams on your cement board with the seams on your plywood. Try to overlap them by at least a few inches if possible, and try to use large pieces of cement board, not 1,000 tiny pieces.

IMPORTANT!!!!
Cement board cutting makes a lot of dust. It goes everywhere. I recommend cutting OUTSIDE!

  Many tile makers suggest/require a layer of thinset between the plywood and the cement board. It's not for bonding, it's to fill any spaces - it will also give you a tiny bit of practice before you get to doing it for the tiles. –  Ecnerwal

Once you have your boards all cut out, screw them down using cememt board screws (There is almost always a display case of them next to the cement board.

These are not drywall screws. They are not made of metal, so they cannot rust. They are self drilling (So you don't have to make 1,000 holes).

Put a screw every 6-12 inches, so that you have a nicely dotted floor. Extra screws won't hurt, but be gentle when putting them in near the edge of boards!

RULE OF THUMB: If your subfloor is not rock solid, your floor will break. If it bounces or moves, redo it now.

Take a break and go get some lunch! (Or sleep). You're half way there!

3) Now get your tiles! If you plan on doing a tile sealer (Like for expensive marble tiles) you should apply it before continuing. Decide your grout lines and pick up your spacers and tiles from the store!

Find the longest, strait line in the room. This will be your "strait line" for reference.

Although I have seen professionals who have teams lay tiles as they cement them (Using lines drawn on the cement board to keep them true) lay a bunch of tiles, I recommend dry-laying out and cutting all your tiles. Trying to cement nicely and cut tiles at the same time is frustrating if you do it all yourself.

Cut your strait cuts using a wet saw (Or tile score and snap machine). I won't get in depth here, but be sure if you use a wet saw not to ever turn the tile mid cut. (Blade will shatter into a million pieces.)

If you need to do a weird shape, you can do a lot of strait cuts and then use a tile nipper or pliers to get it just right. Don't be afraid to start over- tiles are only a dollar each!

3.5) Plan your transitions. Do you want to butt the tile up to the carpet or hardwood next to it, or use a marble transition piece? (Transition pieces are easier!)

4) After you cut your tiles and are satisfied with how they are laid out, it is time to mix up the tile morter. You want it thick enough that your trowel can make shapes in it, but not so thick that it sets up before you pour it.
Wear clothes you don't care about. They will get all cement-y

This step is critical, and very hard to get right. Your first floor or two may be a little wavy. Try not to get too perfectionistic though. I promise it will look good if you use your spacers!

When you are sure you are ready to begin, scoop out cement on the floor, then make nice arcing shapes in it like below:

If you have a really tiny or awkward shaped tile (Or not enough room to fit the trowel) you can put the morter right on the back of the tile. The morter should hold the shape of the trowel. Don't pour too much at once or it will dry before you get to it.

Remember to put down your tile spacers as soon as you finish placing the tile. You should also be sure to put some weight (Don't stand on it if you can avoid it) on each tile, to make sure it gets a good connection with the morter. Try to level and evenly space your tiles (You cannot change it later). If a tile doesn't stick or slides around really easily, rip it up and do it again, or risk a compromised floor.
If you take a break, clean up any cement along the tile edge and then you can come back later!

If all goes well, you can pull up your tile spacers and the floor should look like it's coming together!

Once you finish laying all the tiles, let it dry for 24 hours. Don't walk on it for at least 16, and avoid any heavy traffic.

5) Time to grout! Get your grout float, some more junky clothes, and mix up your grout.

Get some grout out and mush it into the cracks. Make sure you really push it down, not just "graze" it over them. You want to then use your grout float to remove the excess grout sitting on top of the tiles. Don't worry if your grout lines aren't perfect. Our goal in this step is to lay the grout, not perfect it YET.

Done with grout? Great! DON'T TAKE A BREAK YET! (The grout will set up, and it's game over. I made this mistake once, and it took me 8 hours strait to scrape the mostly dried grout.)
You need to get out a clean bucket of water and a sponge, and "wash" the tiles. You will wipe off ALL excess grout, and use the sponge to make your "perfect grout lines". Don't press to hard or you will ruin the grout lines. Try to push even and make it look nice!

All done? Nice work! Go back and make sure you didn't miss anything ;)

6) After the grout has dried for two to four hours, it will get cloudy. Use a DRY cheese cloth to wipe away the haze. (Repeat after 1 more hour)

7) Congratulations! You can now seal your floor using one of those spray on seals (Then wipe up excess with a rag). Let it dry, and you're done!

Good job :D


This happened to me numerous years ago - my bill went from $135 one month to $300 or so the next month. Just by pure luck in trying to determine what was wrong, I went into my attic and found that a air vent had come loose and was happily streaming cold air straight into the 100+ degree attic. I fixed that, and the next bill was back to normal.


for all you fully armed and operational weapons out there, remember there are wires and pipes inside walls.  usually the min. setback is 1 1/4 from the stud face.  so if you put a 3" "finish" nail through a 1" casing and 1/2" drywall, you are well within the realm of punching a hole through something wet or something sparky.

we have been using nothing but 18ga brads for 20 years to do everything from trimwork to cabinetry.  never had a warranty callback for any of it.

remember its not the size of the nail, but how you use it.


Do channels overlap in multiple remote controls for outlets?

From the manufacturers manual that you provided, individual receivers can be "linked" to 1 of the 4 buttons on the transmitter.  This gives you the option to assign multiple receivers to a single button.  The Master button turns on/off all linked devices.

Linking is how the transmitter stores unique IDs in the EEPROM which maps the transmitters buttons to the corresponding receiver(s).

You should not have any problems with cross-communication with your dad's remote or receivers.

You may have a rare problem with signal collision if both transmitters are being used at the same time and are within close proximity.  This might result in neither working at all until one or the other has stop transmitting.


4 Way Switching Wiring Diagram Nightmare

First of all, I think someone just did the coloring nonstandard; they simply used red to the fixture for whatever reason. Also, your diagram doesn't show a red between the 4-way and 3-way switches. I'll assume that's an oversight and it's actually there, because if not, you have bigger problems...
That said, there are a couple of things possibly at play. First, the black hot in the big box could be a separate circuit, not intended for the light fixture in question. Outside lights are often on a different circuit. Second, the black line in question could indeed be the power for the fixture, and you have a three-way setup where the power and fixture are in the same box. You'll need to look at the other three-way switch to know:
Three-way switches have two brass screws and a black screw. The brass screws are the travelers and the black screw is the common. In an ideal world, one three-way box would have the power coming in, and the other would have the power out to the fixture. You'd connect the incoming power to the common on one switch, and the fixture's hot wire to the common on the other switch. You then run the red/black traveler in between, connected to the brass screws on both switches, and you're done. The neutrals and ground simply connect to each other all the way across.
In the more-complicated situation of the power and fixture hots being at the same box, the typical method is to use the white of the traveler wire to carry the switched hot:

The incoming power goes to the common screw of the switch in that box
The traveler red and black connect to the brass screws of that switch
The white neutral of the incoming power line connects to the neutral of the fixture
The white of the traveler connects to the hot of the fixture

At the other end:

The red and black again attach to the brass screws
The white attaches to the common (black) screw

So what you need to do is look at the other three-way switch. You should find one of two things: a) a single red-black-white-ground coming in with the white attached to the black screw, or b) two lines, one black-white-ground and the other red-black-white-ground, with the single black wire on the black screw, and the whites attached together.
In the former case, use a continuity tester to check and see if the white coming in with the travelers (the red-black-white-ground from the 4-way switch) gets connected and disconnected by operating the switches. If so, that needs to go to your fixture hot (red), and the hot black line needs to go to the black screw on the 3-way in the big box.
In the latter case, the hot you've found in the big box is unrelated; as I said, likely another circuit. The fixture hot (red) should be on the black screw of the 3-way in the big box, and everything should operate correctly.


Why not use Roxul ComfortBoard instead of the polystyrene? It is fire proof.
Alternatively you could make a sandwich with the comfortboard on the roomside and the foil faced EPS on the other.
Are you trying to achieve the highest r-value? what r-value per inch is the foil faced EPS you are considering?  How many inches do you want this removable insulation panel to be?
I'd just go with a pure comfortboard solution and not have any EPS.


Wiring a new pendant light to an existing ceiling box

It absolutely makes a difference.  If you attach the hot from the mains to the ground on the fixture, it will most likely energize the entire fixture body (extremely dangerous). Assuming that you're in the United States (or another 120v country), there should be a faint green stripe visible through the insulation on the ground wire.  If you can't make it out, use a multimeter or continuity tester to check for continuity between the base of the socket and each wire.  The one that gives a continuity reading is the hot.  Then double check your result by testing continuity between any metal part of the fixture outside of the socket with the other wire. A ground wire should give a continuity reading to pretty much any other part of the fixture outside the socket that is conductive.


Help me make this rabbet cut in the top edge of a cabinet wall

I'd start by making the job easier - Give your router a wider flat surface to slide on, not just the top of the cabinet sides.  Screw two sacrificial pieces of scrap on either side such the screw holes won't be seen.
Perhaps lay a thin flat piece of smooth scrap on top, with a slot in that top piece so your cutter can reach the work.
Lastly, screw or clamp two or more guides on the sides of your top-scrap piece, to act as a fence for the router.
You can cut some amount per pass, and extend the bit then repeat. Slow and steady does this better.

If space doesn't allow that, you could essentially do the same from the side, but then you're fighting gravity too.  Best to use it instead.
As for a cutter, perhaps something more like an endmill would work here.  There is risk of chipping the laminate surface though so you may choose to pre-cut it on the line with a series of strokes of a sharp knife.
Don't be afraid to use a sharp chisel to finish the ends - no round cutter will get in there perfectly.


Is insulating basement ceiling or first-floor walls more effective?

If your walls are not insulated, then the walls need to be.  If the walls of your basement are insulated then no insulation in the floor joists should be installed.  If your basement is not insulated, then you should have insulation with Kraft Faced paper installed with the paper side against the floor of the upstairs.  Or have closed cell spray foam installed in the floor joists.  You can have someone come in and foam the walls to ensure a complete fill of the wall cavities.  That would be the most efficient way of insulating your room.


For planning purposes I am trying to figure out my plumbing under the slab. Can I safely assume that this is the right setup?

That should work if your wishful thinking is correct, though you might find it more practical to leave the stack alone and re-route the yellow vent around to where the red pipe is, rather than tearing up the stack to put the vent connection on the opposite side. Messing with the bottom of a stack is not trivial.
IF the pipes to the sink are big enough (and probably not if they were not intended for this) you could also route an above-the-slab dry vent from the sink and the sink drain line would wet-vent the rest, but if it's not big enough that won't fly.
Unclear from your comment, but if the place you "need to move" the yellow pipe is the upper floor, you can run it (properly sloped back to the drain) "horizontal" once it is 6" above the flood level of the highest fixture in the floor it serves (the basement.) Not the highest fixture it serves, the highest fixture on the floor it serves. So you could make the move (if the upper floor is the area of concern) without getting into the concrete.


Buzzing on laptop, stove and other electrical devices in Canary Islands

I am in the Canaries at the moment and their attitude to electricity supply and grounding is cavalier to say the least. There is no clear standard as to what is live and what is neutral. The plugs and sockets (Spanish) do normally have a connection for ground but what it is connected to is usually a mystery.

If she is there for a while I would suggest getting a long piece of rebar (2m+) and hammering it into the ground close to the building (diagonally will do if there is rock below). Make the earth connection to this.


if a GU16 bulb, then you have to push -in- and turn. This is due to the little 'nubs' on the end of the connectors


Do I need to seal / moisture-proof an outdoor plug?

I don't think I'd worry about it.  I don't know much about UK electrical hardware but it looks like your outdoor plug / receptacles look a lot sturdier than the US equivalents.  (Apologies if I confuse any terms translating electrical terminology to English.)

It looks like you have RCD / GFCI protection on outdoor receptacles / outlets, which is probably more important than the plug.

The BS 1363/A plug is made so the cord exits down rather than straight out of the wall in most US cords.  This makes your outdoor cover a lot more low profile and probably a lot more secure than the US versions.

The seam on the rewirable plug is probably less susceptible to water than the mating between the plug and the socket.  So you're really relying on the waterproof cover even with a molded plug.

The only alternative I can think of would be to splice on a molded cord.  I am sure you can make a very secure waterproof splice.  But I personally would worry more about the splice than the rewirable plug.

I will admit that sometimes I still add a wrap of Scotch 88 tape on things like this, even though it probably isn't needed, just because it can't hurt.  (The US electrical components may not be as robust as the UKs but we make the best tape in the world, hands down!)


How do I seal this grating when it rains?

If you have no glass to keep rain out and the window is open all year except when you put plastic over it. If you prefer to have no glass, I am sure there is a producer of automatic louvers that have a rain sensor to sense when they need to close. They may shade the window more than the grate does now, but it will keep the rain out.I am sure the shade will be custom made for each window.


How do I install a pre-hung door in a rough opening that's too wide?

From you description, it sounds like you have a hair over 1 1/2 inches of extra space to make up. If this is correct consider this method. Place a full 1x4 (or whatever the depth of the wall may be) on both sides, as long as the new door frame will still fit comfortably in the new opening. When ever possible, I like to mount the hinge side to a solid petition without excessive shims. This makes it more solid without having to bridge a large gap with your finish nails, and makes it a lot easier to perfectly plumb the hinge jam.  I often replace the center hinge screw on the jam side with a longer matching screw that will attach to the jam. This does a few things for you. One, you don't need as many nails, gives a much more solid  feeling and sounding door, and gives you a tool to fine adjust the plumb if necessary.(especially on heavier solid wood doors. Just like with security screws on an entry door. After you are sure you are happy with the plumb on the hinge side, simply use visual to get an even gap on the top and latch side, in that order. You can then use shims on the latch side and shoot your finish nail just below your shims. this keeps the shims from dropping as you work down the jam. i don't usually shoot through the shims because they often split and I may want to slightly adjust them before the trim casings are installed.


How to prevent water coming off the edge of a roof with no gutter?

That edge of your roof is called the “rake” edge.

Water is probably running off it because 1) it’s slightly lower than the main roof, or 2) heavy rain and wind pushes it off that edge.

To keep the water from coming off the rake edge, is recommend a “standing seam” edge. The height will depend on how much rain you get and the length of the rake edge.

Here, we get a lot of rain all at once and we use a 3/4” to 1” high standing ridge at the edge, depending on the length of run.


No. The wall insulation is presumably inside the framed wall, behind the asphalt felt we see here. The brick is outside the building "envelope". It has no involvement with insulation.


How can I make 5 lights work with 2 switches and one light common to both?

You'll need two double-pole switches. Those are front and center in my illustraton.  There are no relays.

Since you are using separate circuits you must maintain separate neutrals and keep them rigidly separated.  You cannot cluster the neutrals. (Grounds you can, neutral is not ground).  This applies even if they are the same phase.

In the U.S., gray is an allowable neutral color and this is why: so you can distinguish differently sourced neutrals in close proximity. I am using purple for the "hot" associated with the gray neutral, and red for the other hot.  This is for illustration; if you are in conduit you can use those colors straight up, otherwise you will be stuck with black and white as found in Romex.  You can use tape to mark conductors as different, though, best to use gray tape since black tape on a neutral is usually assumed to be a hot.  You could also tape the wire bundle.

The center box is your junction box with the 2 switches.  The bottom box is your circuit breaker panel.


How should I wire this 2-way light switch?

Managed to solve this myself with a live wire detector:

I believe the red/black on the far right of the diagram are wired incorrectly, as the black is live and the red neutral.

I believe this set up is described here, which states that it's not recommended for new installations for many reasons, but can be found in old homes.


Will an electronic air filter harm my furnace?

You'll have to find a unit that can match the required intake air flow of the furnace.

Estimating required air flow.

To estimate the required amount of air the furnace needs, you'll have to know what type of furnace you have, and how many BTUs the furnace is rated for.  Once you have this information, you'll divide the furnaces rated BTU value by 10,000.

100,000 BTU / 10,000 = 10

Next you'll multiply that value by the CFM/10,000 BTU value for your type of furnace.

Natural Draft Furnace = 100 CFM/10,000 BTU.
Induced Draft Furnace = 130 CFM/10,000 BTU.
Condensing Furnace = 150 CFM/10,000 BTU.

130 * 10 = 1300 CFM (Cubit feet per minute)

So if you had a 100,000 BTU induced draft furnace, you'd need a filter with at least an output of 1300 CFM.

As the filter gets dirty, air flow will naturally be restricted. Because of this, you'll want to choose a filter system with a higher CFM rating than you need. In our example above we wouldn't want to get a unit that is rated at 1300 CFM, we'd want one rated somewhere closer to 1400 or 1500 CFM.

Measuring Air Flow

You can determine the actual air flow using a handheld Anemometer, like this one

Start by measuring the area of the duct (Length * Width). Next measure the air speed using the anemometer (ft/min). Finally multiply the area of the duct by the air speed.

(20" * 25" = 500 sqin.) / 144) = 3.47 sqft.
3.47 sqft. * 375 ft/min = 1301.25 CFM

To determine if the air filter is restricting air flow, calculate the CFM both with and without the filter connected.

Watching for signs of reduced flow.

If you notice any of the following problems after installation, you likely have restricted the air flow too much.

Furnace has trouble producing a flame, or flame is small.
Furnace constantly overheats.
Furnace struggles to keep up with heating demand.
Output air flow is weak and/or cold.