Edit at the top:

OK I got a better look at your wiring and I see what they did (party foul!). And I'm going to 'upgrade' my... this isn't good.

The feeder circuit is on the left. Incoming hot and neutral. They didn't run a 3 wire run on the right, so they stole the white wire (neutral) and made it another hot runner. That makes the wires on the right going out 'runner 1' and 'runner 2'. One of them runs to your fan, and one of them runs to your light.

Unfortunately, there is no return path for the electricity. You said there's copper coming into the box- which I can't see from the wires- so my guess is they stole the bare copper wire to become your return path. Had they run a 3 wire (Black, Red, White, copper-ground) they'd only need one wire path.

I hacked together an image. I suck at mousing, laughter should help ease the pain.

On the left you can see a white wire coming off the switch and going up into the romex on the right (runner 1)- that is now carrying power. The party foul here is it should be labeled - either with a black sharpie (color the end) so people know it's hot, or wrapped with some black electrical tape. I mean, it is sort of obvious, but I believe code calls it out anyway.

On the right you can see a black wire coming off and traveling up into the romex on the right. That's also carrying power, so it's 'runner 2'.

So your switch box itself is being used to tie ground and neutral together.

Since you said this is in the bathroom... I'll be honest with you- this is REALLY dangerous. Like... get yourself or your family killed dangerous. Assuming it's within 6' (2 meters) of a sink with water, you could theoretically provide a very good path for electricity to make it to the water and electrify yourself IF something else goes wrong.

Reason being is that whole box is carrying power. It's hard to see from just the one photo but I don't think I'm missing something.

Now, what to do:

You can sort-of fix this. But maybe just not in the way you'd like. Simply put you don't have enough wires going out of the box to feed the fan and light. Now interestingly there are a couple of solutions that might work but that would entail fixing/modifying the fan.

I assume the fan and light are integrated into a single unit?

The easiest and safest thing to do to day without bringing in an electrician is to disconnect the switch/timer for the fan, and wire the fan and light together. That means when the switch comes on, the light and fan turn on at the same time. I know this is NOT what you want, but it would be a temporary fix until you can have someone come run a 14/3 wire up the wall and into the fixture.

If this is going to be OK, let me know, and I'll write up some more detailed instructions.

If you can take some more photos too showing copper lines I'll try and think of how else it might be wired.

So that's really not good to see. I tried to visually trace your grounding, and it appears that the ground comes from the metal box to the outlet on the right, then over to the one on the left. And at no point do I see it go anywhere else.

So with that, no, your box is not wired right, and more importantly... it's a hazard because your 'neutral' which is your 'return path' for electricity is hooked to the metal ground box. It goes hot, you go hot.

I also don't see any bare copper coming into the box from anywhere. If it is there and you take a photo that'll help.

So first things first, and I'm a bit uncomfortable saying this, you ought to find someone that can give that a good look and test things before you disconnect it.. but I'd get that bare copper wire and your neutral white broken apart.

Then you could use that neutral, assuming it's not wired even funnier than the box.

Can you describe more of what the switches do? I assume that one is an outlet, the other is a switch- thus power (and neutral) coming in are feeders, then the line going out is broken at the switch, and the neutral coming back from that is tied into the neutral going out with the feeder.


The metal appears to be copper. There are house hold cleaners for copper bottom pots that will help clean this. Wrights copper cream is a product my Mom uses. You may need a "car buffer" with a cloth bonnet to do a large area. After getting it bright and clean a spray with a clear lacquer will keep it looking nice for several years. Without sealing it will quickly tarnish again. I think lemon juice and baking soda will also work but may take more elbow grease than wrights.


Help me understand this power strip installation

Is it typical to find power strips of this kind directly wired into the mains?
Is a boiler and washing machine too heavy a load for the power strip?
Is there a better/safer way to wire this whole setup?

Somewhat unusual, but this has been done correctly, with a 13A fuse protecting the power strip and its cord, and the connections in/out of the fused connection unit (FCU) being glanded.
Not in terms of total load, but many power strips are of poor quality and shouldn't be used for high current appliances.
Yes, the FCU should be replaced with a switched FCU for the boiler and a good quality 13A socket for the washing machine.


Mounting a small mirror on frosted glass?

I would use a few dabs of silicone bathroom sealer at the corners and hold it in place until it sets.

It wouldn’t take much to hold and if you want to remove it later dental floss slid behind acts like a chainsaw on the silicone. I glue plastic name plates to equipment at work, sometimes the instructions change so a new plate is needed, a minute and a couple feet of dental floss removes the old nameplate, your mirror would work the same.


I am really not sure what you mean by depreciated. So moving on from that we can see if this question can be answered.

Many people get confused with different types of circuits. In your case a 240V circuit or a 120/240V circuit, and these are two different circuits. The 240V circuit (a nominal 220V) requires the use of 240V only. This requires 2 conductors that measure 240V across them and a grounding conductor. A 120/240V piece of equipment requires two different voltages to function. This one requires 2 conductors that measure 240V one conductor the neutral conductor (the white one or identified or grounded) and it measures 120V between the other 2 conductors and a grounding conductor.

The NEMA configuration 14-30 receptacle is a standard design for the 120/240V circuit. There is nothing wrong to use it for a 240V circuit.

That's a long way around to say that the receptacle itself and the circuit really doesn't have to have a neutral if it is a specific duty circuit for the band saw. Even though you might want to install a neutral conductor if you are ever thinking about using the circuit for something other than your band saw.

Stay safe and never work on circuits when they are alive.


If a breaker is tripping regularly, that's a serious problem you should look at.   That is not normal or acceptable.  It means something is wrong with your overcurrent protection, or a defective device actually drawing too much current.

It is normal for circuit breakers to allow overcurrent for a short amount of time.  This is needed by motors to start, incandescent bulbs to light, and many electronic power supplies to initially start up.  The term is called "inrush current".

Ultimately the purpose of breakers is to protect wiring and receptacles.  Overcurrent makes them excessively warm, but small overcurrent makes them warm slowly.  The breaker is designed to trip before this heat would endanger the wires.

Many breakers also have an instantaneous trip, where they will trip immediately for very high current (i.e. a dead short).  This is many times the nameplate rating of the breaker.

There is a chart for your breaker of how much overcurrent it will permit for how long.   Here is one example, there should be a vaguely similar chart for your breaker.   I'd get and see if it explains your breaker's tripping behavior.  If it doesn't, then either your measuring method is not precise enough, or you have a bad breaker.  I would be surprised at a breaker instantaneously tripping at 125% of rating.


Not sure how to fix this drywall with paper showing

That is paper drywall tape. It covers joints between sheets and prevents cracking. It's doing this because there wasn't enough joint compound ("mud") underneath to bond it.

Your best bet for fixing it is to cut back the paper to somewhere where it's well bonded; get some fiberglass mesh tape; apply tape and coat thinly with setting type compound (not premixed); apply another coat or two of setting type compound; sand flush; then use orange peel texture in a spray can to re-texture.


What could cause tiles to suddenly separate from a wall?

Tiles that were attached with a substandard, incorrect, or poorly prepared adhesive and/or were bonded to an improper surface or a surface that was not properly prepared, will tend to release over time. Especially in areas where water is present.


Toilet leaks into the wall after the flushing stops?

This sounds like the float valve inside the toilet might be allowing the water to drain down the overflow tube.  Normally, the float will stop the water before it gets to the top of the overflow, but if the float is leaking or out of adjustment, the water can spill over the top.

When water leaks into the overflow, it goes into the tank, and when it goes into the tank, it fills to the point that water will start to trickle down the drain.  When the water trickles down the drain, you may be able to hear it "running" down the sewer pipe in the wall.

Take the lid off the toilet tank and watch what happens after you flush.  Any draining issues should be apparent.  The same thing can happen if the flapper valve is leaking, but then you normally hear the toilet fill back up a little bit every few minutes.


Using new lumber in an old wall with larger lumber dimensions

You may have to rip a larger board, but you might be able to find "rough cut" lumber at some yards. I had a house built in 1910, I had the same problem. I was able to find rough cut lumber for interior framing work, but for anything exposed, I had to mill down larger boards.


My furnace has a vibration for about a second at the end of the heat cycle.

I agree with @nomind as far as removing the panel on the furnace and inspecting the the blower.

However, I am thinking the fan reaches a particular speed and the balance of it hits a resonant frequency as it slows back down through that speed.

I would suspect lint has built up on the fan and is affecting the balance of it. Remove the inspection panel and clean the fan thoroughly with a vacuum. If the vibration continues after that I would suspect a worn bearing but after only 6 years of use that would not speak very well of your brand of furnace.

Good luck!


Mitsubishi Mr. Slim is the most common example of such a system.  I have seen them in several places out west, but not so much in the eastern US.  They are very popular in Japan, and other Pacific countries (notice the band names of most of the systems), but they are just starting to become common in the US.

As I understand it, these systems became popular in urban settings because of high-rise buildings.  It is easier to route coolant lines down from the rooftop instead of massive central air ducts.

If you are retrofitting a house that doesn't have existing ductwork, these mini-split systems can be a preferable option.  As any HVAC contactor can tell you, designing ducts for proper airflow can be a difficult task, and it can be almost impossible to get right in existing construction.

If you get one of the multi-zone ductless systems, you have a thermostat at each indoor unit, which can allow for more flexibility in setting different rooms to different temperatures.

They generally have very high efficiency ratings.  In many cases, they have a higher SEER/EER than an equivalent centralized AC system.

The drawbacks to these systems are:

You have the indoor unit sticking out from the wall.
Since they are less popular, it can be harder to find a competant service company.
Fewer companies selling/servicing mean it can be more expensive to get work done.
The residental systems I have seen can support at most 3 indoor units.  So, if you want good airflow in every room of your house, you're not going to get it.
The residential systems I have seen max out at ~3.5 tons of total cooling.  So, a single system may be insufficient for a big (or poorly insulated) house.

I have a relative who converted his screened-in patio into a sun room.  He then added a Mr. Slim to provide A/C.  It's quiet and keeps the room cool.  And since it is independent from the main house HVAC, the whole house doesn't need the A/C running constantly.  This seems to be a really good fit.

At my office, we have one of these units installed in our server room at the office to provide cooling.  We've had several problems, but I think the unit was undersized for the application.  It's also a residental unit that wasn't made to cool a server room 24/7/365.  It's quiet though.

I don't have any first hand experience with the heat pump version of the unit, so I am not sure how well they do in a heating scenario.


What Size Heat Shrink Tubing for Splicing Lamp Wire (SPT-2 18-2 AWG)?

You should not be splicing lamp wires outside the fixture or lamp. If you need to splice in the middle of a run you should replace the cord.

Inside a fixture or lamp no heat shrink is required or needed.

Heat shrink tubing just needs to fit over the area to be covered before shrinking.

  Article 400 Flexible Cords and Cables

  400.9 Splices

  Flexible cord shall be used only in continuous lengths without splice
  or tap where initially installed in applications permitted by
  400.7(A). The repair of hard-service cord and junior hard-service cord (see Trade Name column in Table 400.4) 14 AWG and larger shall be
  permitted if conductors are spliced in accordance with 110.14(B) and
  the completed splice retains the insulation, outer sheath properties,
  and usage characteristics of the cord being spliced.


Clear Marine Vinyl Sheet On Bathtub Surround To Temporarily Waterproof Walls?

That sounds like a longer lasting solution than duck-taping a couple of shower curtains up. Remember that a shower curtain protects the floor outside the tub from getting wet, so I'd think this should work just fine as a one-year-or-so "temporary" solution.

Make sure that you overlap the sheeting onto the surface of the tub. It could be that there is an unsealed grout joint way down low and that the grout is wicking the water up and over the lip of the tub that's sitting behind the tile.
Make sure the adhesive you choose is suitable for the sheeting you're using. I'm not certain whether or not your particular choice is good or not, just giving you a reminder.

I put "temporary" in quotes because sometimes these things drag on... ;)


Why would the light be on when the switch is off?

A "short" as you call it seems unlikely since that should cause the breaker to trip.
As a next step, you should SHUT OFF THE BREAKER, and then check the switch since you already seem to believe that it may be bad.  Yes, switches do go bad and so your belief is reasonable at this point.  If you have a VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) checking the switch is simple enough.  If not, you really should get one but another approach is to simply change the switch (new ones are inexpensive) and see if that resolves the problem.
If that turns out to be the problem, then you should be able to replace the switch and move on.
Otherwise, more troubleshooting is in order.


Are there any wide-angle hinges that lift up while turning?

Yes, they are called “rising butt hinges”.

The “joint” is at an angle and as they rotate it gives vertical movement.

Here is a link to one such product: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rising-Butt-Door-Hinges-Stainless/dp/B00GK5QLY8


Just installed natural gas fire pit and now getting a whistling sound

I'm assuming when you say "flex tube", you're talking about a flexible gas connector like this.

If so, the whistle could be caused by this connector. You should be able to find "Whistle-free", or "non-whistle" gas connectors, if you search the internet.  The other option, is to use rigid plumbing the whole way.

As d.george points out, you'll want to check the manufacturers documentation for the fire pit burner, to determine if the gas plumbing is properly sized.  1/2" is usually only good for a single appliance. You'll likely have problems if you run the BBQ, and the fire pit at the same time.


Do cracks in my home's stucco indicate foundation issues?

The short answer to the question in your Heading is: Yes, the culprit for the stucco crack is probably footing/foundation settling. But it doesn't look serious.

Most building move, some more than others. Traditional stucco shows it; concrete foundations/basements show it; and even drywall shows cracks in buildings that move enough. Unfortunately, stucco seems to highlight the tell-tell signs of a building's nefarious activity for all to see. The work for many stucco contractors is primarily repairing cracks. Your stucco crack is very typical - at a window sill. Interior dry wall usually cracks at the wall board seams.
You can worry and spend lots of money trying to make a building hold still, but most people just fix the cracks.

Fortunately, developments in plaster/stucco/drywall have created materials that offer much more flexibility, to let the building do it thing without displaying cracks to prove it. Crack repairs tend to last longer now with the flexible materials. The art is in matching the original texture. A seasoned stucco contractor can make a long-lasting repair that blends in with its surroundings. If you want to do it yourself, there are plentiful youtube "How To" videos on the topic. Kirk Giordano has posted several good videos that apply directly the issue that you and numerous other homeowners are experiencing.


To answer your specific questions, you shouldn't assume spring angle is 45 degrees. Put a framing square on the flats of the crown and you'll know if it's symmetrical or 38/52.

To cut this flat, your bevel and miter angles are somewhere in the 30 degree range. See the link below to figure the actual numbers.

Since your saw doesn't flop both ways, you might consider building a mini sled that holds the crown upside down at its spring angle (45 or whatever). Then the only angle you need to worry about is the ~45 inside and outsides. See tutorial on crown angles

(I'm not saying you need to do this; it's just that only cutting crown with only one direction of bevel will force you to cut upside down occasionally, which is bad for tearout and relatively confusing sometimes.)

Mini sled... mine:

(Not shown: the upright of the sled is bolted to the fence of the saw so it won't move. Clamps might be an option, but they'll probably get in the way.

Terrible picture angle, but set the crown upside down with the flats aligned with the base and the fence:

Note the pencil line that indicates where the crown is supposed to sit on the base. Hole in the base so I can see my miter angles.

Finally, tack a straight bit of something onto the pencil line on the sled to keep the crown from slipping out of angle:

Last notes, if you're meeting up to an existing piece, they may have felt forced to tweak the spring angle just a teensy bit, which will make it hard to match perfectly. Do as much as you can to have extra length while you're whittling away at a perfect fit. Don't expect corners to be perfect 90 degrees, either. If it's paint grade, there's a lot of forgiveness to be found in sandpaper and spackle.


Can plants be planted over a drain field?

It really depends on what you want to plant, but generally you do not want to have anything but grass or something that has shallow roots and does not block out the sun.  Your leech field works in two ways, one is the water leeches through the soil, but the other way that it works is evaporation.  Evaporation accounts from 30 to 70% of what goes in your leech field, depending on how it is designed.

So I would avoid putting to much around it or over it.  Trees will love the water, but eventually clog up your field.  The worst, ficus trees, they should be called ficus weeds.


Water sprays out between handle and hose

The typical hose end (female) also includes a rubber washer that mates with the inside of the fitting and th end of the handle. They wear, they age, they get lost. (should I have used semicolons? That's another SE)

Easily determined to be missing. Look into the hose end. If you see the washer, replace it. If you don't see the washer, hop over to the hardware store of choice and ask for a hose end washer.

The washers are going to be varied in color and some may not have the tiny ears that allow them to listen to water flow. Not really, the ears keep them from falling out, as they will push beyond the threads and hold the washer in place. You probably have to buy three or four or five, use one and lose the rest in the clutter when you need them again. No, wait. That's me.


I usually sit the ring on the end of the tube or shaft and hold it there with my thumb, then use a small screwdriver to push it on completely, takes practise and luck.
Another method is to have a tube of a slightly larger diameter so it will slide over the other tube and use that to push the ring on squarely - then a vice can help.


Can I use this smart dimmer switch with these wires?

You do not need a three way dimmer. The dimmer you have will work fine. Your existing switch is a single toggle switch. It's confusing because you have a black wire connected to a screw terminal and a black wire shoved into a backstab,(which is the same connection as the screw terminal). With the breaker "off" take the two black wires from your existing switch and connect them to the line wire from your new dimmer. Connect the red wire from your existing switch to the load wire from your dimmer. Connect the white wire from your dimmer to the neutral group in the box and connect the ground wires.


Why is the conductor size 4mm2 and 10mm2 listed twice in this table of conductor sizes?

I received a reply by the VDE publisher. I will post it (although it is in German) and translate it below

Während die Strombelastbarkeiten der Referenzverlegearten B1, B2 und C für die Verlegung auf einer Holzwand (also dem thermisch ungünstigsten Fall) ermittelt wurden – und damit bei Verlegung auf Mauerwerk, Putz usw. auf der sicheren Seite liegen –, sind für die in der Installationspraxis wichtigen Leiterquerschnitte 4 mm2 Cu und 10 mm2 Cu zusätzlich Strombelastbarkeitswerte bei Verlegung auf Mauerwerk oder einer Wand mit mind. vergleichbarer Wärmeableitung aufgeführt.
Es wird also weiterhin bei diesen Leiterquerschnitten und Verlegearten eine wirtschaftlichere Zuordnung von Überstromschutzeinrichtungen ermöglicht. In der Tabelle 3 von DIN VDE 0298-4 sind die zusätzlichen Strombelastbarkeitsangaben durch separate Zeilen (jeweils doppelte Nennung des Leiterquerschnitts) zu erkennen. Die zusätzlich aufgeführten Strombelastbarkeitswerte gelten selbstverständlich nicht für die Verlegung auf einer Holzwand. Hier gelten die „normalen“ Strombelastbarkeitswerte der DIN VDE 0298-4, Tabelle 3. Umrechnungsfaktoren, z. B. bei abweichenden Umgebungstemperaturen oder Häufung, dürfen auf zusätzlichen Strombelastbarkeitsangaben gemäß Fußnote c auch nicht angewendet werden; will sagen, für die Anwendung von Umrechnungsfaktoren gelten ausschließlich die ursprünglichen Strombelastbarkeitswerte der Tabelle 3 aus DIN VDE 0298-4, so der Erklärungsansatz für die zusätzlichen Zeilen und die (bei uns im Buch unterschlagene) Fußnote c.

Translation:

The values in the original table are for the unfavorable condition, when the installation is done on wooden walls. But because the conductor size 4mm2 and 10mm2 are economically important other values are given, which are suited when the walls have similar thermal conductivity but are not made out of wood.
Conversion factors, such as for deviating ambient temperature or clustering cannot be applied to these additional values. They are only suitable for the original values. Normally, there is a subscript c) for these rows, but in this edition it has been left out.

TLDR:
If you install your conductors on walls made of materials other than wood, but which have similar thermal conductivity you can use these values. However you cannot correct these values for ambient temperature or clustering.
Because the values are only marginally higher than the corresponding values which give amperage for conductors installed on walls made out of wood, I find their usage questionable.


Plugging compressor into 240v dryer plug (NEMA 10-30R)

First, a few things about this situation.

NEMA 30A and 50A receptacles are not built for frequent use.  If you are swapping plugs in and out regularly, the receptacle or plugs are bound to fail.
Dryers and ranges hooked up via NEMA 10 have a very dangerous failure mode. If there's any problem with the neutral wire between the appliance and the panel, the chassis becomes energized at 120V. This is legal because these large appliances are rarely moved and rarely plugged/unplugged.  As such these connections are not legal for new installations.
Despite much searching, we here have found nothing in Code which prohibits putting two receptacles on the same 30A circuit.
Retrofitting grounds is only legal at existing receptacle sites.  You cannot install a receptacle in a new location and retrofit ground to it.
Because you are renting, you need actual permission from the landlord. Failure to obtain it is grounds for eviction.
Electrical work on a rental property usually must be done by a licensed electrician.  That does not apply to power cords on appliances.
"Belt and suspenders" doesn't work with neutrals and grounds.  You must not have 2 places neutral ties to ground.
Hokey-dokey patchwork is absolutely out of the question.  It will create serious liability for both you and the landlord.  Further, the rules of this forum require code-compliant solutions. Don't violate Code - seriously.

So here's what that adds up to.

I know you don't want to change the receptacle, but NEMA 10 is so dangerous, especially with frequent plug changes, that it's really time.  So I'm going to ask you to make the big leap.

From discussion, it sounds like retrofitting a ground wire will be logistically easy to do, with nothing in the way.  This can be a simple bare #10 wire, installed using normal wiring methods.   The new NEMA 14-30 receptacle will replace the old 10-30 receptacle.  The hots and neutral will transfer over to their same terminals, and the ground pin gets the retrofit ground.

The retrofit ground wire then goes to one of these places:

The service panel's ground bar
To a proper junction point on any grounded circuit whose ground wire is 10 AWG or larger back to the panel
To a ground screw in any steel junction box which has all-metal conduit all the way back to the panel (metal conduit is a legal grounding path). Junction boxes have a threaded #10-32 hole for a similar machine screw.  You can also use a bolt and nut.  Don't use sheetmetal screws or nails.
To any part of the grounding electrode system, which is the bare wire(s), stranded or solid, which come out of the service panel and go to ground rods, water pipes, etc.  Do not cut these; clamp to them with a "split bolt".  Do not clamp to a water pipe.

Then you'll need to get the manual for the dryer and follow its instructions to change the dryer cord to a NEMA 14-30.   I was looking for a way to avoid this but I can't find one.  A neutral-ground jumper needs to be removed from the dryer; failing to do so creates a fire hazard.

You'll also need to change the compressor socket to a 14-30 also; obviously.  In its case you will not hook up the neutral wire.

Now if you really wanted to, you could install a second 14-30 receptacle right next to the dryer (or somewhere else), that would eliminate the frequent plug changes.

Now because you are in a rental unit, the landlord needs to approve it and most likely, because it is a rental unit, local code requires that an electrician needs to do the work.  There is absolutely no downside for the landlord; switching to a 14-30 receptacle makes the unit safer.

Electricians only need to hook up wires. They are not required to clear paths for wires, place ground wires, design the circuit or do other preparatory work that is beneath an electrician.  I am guessing this will be a quickie job.


How do I get my small portable generator started?

Step one would be to drop float bowl and clean float pin and bowl.  The amount of gummy residue there will direct how much more disassembly/cleaning is needed.

The needle valves may also be gummed up.  If you remove them, count revolutions very carefully, for replacement.


Can I glue instead of screw a 3/4” strip of cement backer board?

The solution I came up with was to predrill, just through the cement board, and then using roofing nails. The predrilling and the flat head of the nails kept the cement board from splitting.


My guess would be

I notice someone (you?) marked the switched-live wires with black dots (single and double). If you are especially lucky, whoever did this also similarly marked the wires in the light fitting and in or behind the smoke alarm.

So for example it might be something like

switched live 1 - light fitting
switched live 2 - smoke alarm
permanent live - unused?

The bottom red wire is most likely the live feed in from the fusebox/consumer-unit.

If there are two reds behind the smoke alarm, it may be that one is the upper permanent live and the other is one of the two switched lives. If so you can rearrange wiring at the alarm. Otherwise you need to move wires at the switch.

If all else fails I would turn off the breaker for that circuit, disconnect the three red wires that exit the top of the back box, open up the smoke alarm, remove the light bulb (in case the alarm piggy-backs from the light fitting) and then use a continuity tester (e.g. Cat II multimeter) to work out which wires go where.

  I have a cheap DT830B digital multimeter that I've never used.

Not ideal, but here's what I would do. Take great care as 240VAC is potentially lethal.

disconnect all the red wires (R1-R4)
plug black lead into bottom socket marked "COM"
plug red lead into middle socket labelled VΩmA
Set dial to V~ 750 range
prop the meter up somewhere you can see it which is near to the switch.
hold the probes keeping your fingers at least 1" away from the metal tips.
press the black probe tip firmly into the top of the black connector where there is a brass screw clamping the wires together.
press the tip of the red probe against each of R1 to R4 in turn and make a note of which ones show 230-250 VAC.

With luck that will identify which of the red wires is the live feed in. You can then try connecting the live wire to each of the other reds one at a time to see what turns on. That will identify what the other wires go to.

  Connecting R2+R3 puts the light on ...

Test results:

Connections            |switch |light  |alarm |other |conclusion
-----------------------|-------|-------|------|------|--------------------------
top=R1+R2+R4 bottom=R3 |off    |off    |ON    |-     |R3 is not live-in nor alarm
"                      |on     |ON     |ON    |-     |R3 to light
R1 + R2 + R3 + R4      |-      |ON     |ON    |-     |-
R2 + R3                |-      |ON     |-     |-     |R3 is light, R2 is live-in
R2 + R4                |-      |-      |ON    |-     |R4 is alarm, R2 is live-in
R1 not connected to R2 |-      |-      |-     |OFF   |R1 is other rooms

So in summary:

R1 is to other rooms.
R2 is live from fusebox/consumer-unit
R3 is light
R4 is alarm

Your Crabtree switch has a top connector, often this will be labelled COM, in your case at appears to be marked COMMON. I would connect R1, R2 and R4 here

It also has two lower connectors - it is a two-way switch (US nomenclature: three-way) used where you have two switches contolling one light (e.g hallway). In this case it is being used as a normal one-way switch. The two lower connections are usually labelled L1 and L2†. I would connect R3 to L1 here.

Summary

top (COMMON) = R1 + R2 + R4
bottom (L1) = R3

It doesn't matter if you swap the roles of the top COMMON and bottom L1 connectors if that makes it easier to fit the wiring in.

If the normal ON position of the switch has the lights off, just move all the wires that are in L1 over to L2.

†Other manufacturer's switches sometimes have the common position labelled as L1 and the other positions as L2 and L3.


The rust on your water heater and the cracking of the top surface is indicative of another problem.

Your thermostat might be broken, the heating element (where the gas is actually ignited to heat the pan) might be broken.

Just looking at the unit and the rust and given you have this other issue I will suggest you replace the unit, because if you are not a professional in the industry that can be very dangerous for you. Working with Gas is highly dangerous even for professionals.

That said the cost of a service person to come look at the issue and the cost of any part to repair the unit you might be looking at $200-$400. For that kind of money you can buy a unit have it installed.

You did not say where in the World you are located so if you are in the United States...

Many states have rebate and credit programs, some local municipalities have rebate and credit programs and lastly even your gas company might even rebate and credit programs, the gas company might even install the unit for free (after all they would not want you to use an electric Water heater for the next 20 years would they ?)

You might be able to end up with a brand new , highly efficient unit for the price of the servicing to fix your unit.


Replacing a switch with something that is always on

If you're trying to cover the whole box

Blank plate
Blank cover plate
Blank wall plate
Blank electrical box cover
Blank switch cover

If you're trying to cover one slot of a multi-gang box

Blank insert
Blank switch insert
Blank toggle insert
Blank Decora insert

If you just want to lock the switch in the ON/OFF position

Switch guard
Switch lockout
Switch shield


Does NEC apply to temporary structures, container homes, trailers, houseboats, etc.?

It does apply to temporary buildings!
The NEC indeed does apply to wiring that is a permanent fixture inside a mobile structure, such as a mobile/manufactured home, RV, or office trailer.  Which part of the NEC applies, though, depends on what you have.
Mobile and manufactured (distinct from modular homes and buildings, which are treated the same as site-built structures, save for a few notes found in Article 545) homes are governed by Article 550.  This also applies to other types of temporary buildings such as office or worksite trailers and portable classrooms as per NEC 550.4(A):

(A) Mobile Home Not Intended as a Dwelling Unit. A mobile
home not intended as a dwelling unit — for example, those
equipped for sleeping purposes only, contractor’s on-site offices, construction job dormitories, mobile studio dressing
rooms, banks, clinics, mobile stores, or intended for the display
or demonstration of merchandise or machinery — shall not be
required to meet the provisions of this article pertaining to the
number or capacity of circuits required. It shall, however, meet
all other applicable requirements of this article if provided with
an electrical installation intended to be energized from a
120-volt or 120/240-volt ac power supply system. Where different voltage is required by either design or available power
supply system, adjustment shall be made in accordance with
other articles and sections for the voltage used.

RVs, pop-ups, towed campers, and other things not intended to be set on a permanent foundation (this category includes tiny-homes-on-wheels), however, are governed instead by Article 551, which largely parallels Article 550 save for RV-specific things, such as generator handling and combination AC/DC power systems.  Note that 551.1 excludes circuits powered by the automotive DC system from Article 551's jurisdiction, though, so it's legal to use typical automotive wiring methods for 12VDC or 24VDC circuits powered from the trailer plug on a trailer camper or engine-alternator system on a RV.  Also, 551.4 parallels 550.4 in that RVs used for non-dwelling purposes are covered by Article 551 save for the number and capacity of 120V circuits provided.
Houseboats though, are a more interesting case...
When you get to things that float, though, the situation becomes murkier.  The NEC governs non-navigable, permanently moored floating buildings in Article 553, as long as they have a connection to an off-premises supply system (such as a utility, or some sort of shore-based "microgrid").  However, NEC 553.2 excludes a completely self-powered ("off grid") floating building from the definition of "floating building" used in NEC 553:

553.2 Definition.
Floating Building. A building unit, as defined in Article 100,
that floats on water, is moored in a permanent location, and
has a premises wiring system served through connection by
permanent wiring to an electrical supply system not located on
the premises.

Furthermore, if what you are talking about is actually a navigable vessel that can reasonably be unmoored and towed or piloted around whatever body of water it sits on, the NEC's application becomes very murky indeed.  This is because while the NEC itself excludes watercraft, aside from Article 553 floating buildings, from its jurisdiction in 90.2(B):

(B) Not Covered. This Code does not cover the following:
(1) Installations in ships, watercraft other than floating buildings, railway rolling stock, aircraft, or automotive vehicles
other than mobile homes and recreational vehicles
Informational Note: Although the scope of this Code indicates
that the Code does not cover installations in ships, portions of
this Code are incorporated by reference into Title 46, Code of
Federal Regulations, Parts 110–113.

the Coast Guard electrical engineering regulations in 46 CFR Subchapter J include parts of the NEC by reference, as mentioned in the FPN above. However, 46 CFR Subchapter J itself does not apply to uninspected vessels governed by 46 CFR Subchapter C, and houseboats, by and large, are considered uninspected vessels, as they do not operate in any sort of trade service.  The main document that fills this gap is ABYC standard E-11, but this is a voluntary construction standard; 33 CFR Subpart I captures the most important requirements, but only applies to boats powered by inboard or inboard-outboard gasoline engines, not purely outboard gasoline engines, purely sail-powered vessels, or diesel-powered boats.


Can I substitute two wires for one heavier-gauge wire?

If the installation needs to comply with US NEC, 310.4 forbids paralleling conductors smaller than 1/0 (with some limited exceptions that do not apply to the described installation.)

  310.4 Conductors in Parallel

  Aluminum, copper-clad aluminum, or copper conductors of size 1/0 AWG
  and larger, comprising each phase, polarity, neutral, or grounded
  circuit conductor shall be permitted to be connected in parallel
  (electrically joined at both ends).


Light fixture measuring 120V for both hot and neutral

That's not neutral

Normally, wires cannot be re-tasked.  But there is an exception in Code which allows white wires to be used as hot.  The white wire must be marked with tape or paint.  Prior to that, marking wasn't required "if the usage is obvious".

This is most often seen in switch loops, which is the usage here.

On both sides, black is always hot.  One side's white is neutral back to supply. The other side's white is switched hot returning from the switch.  We don't know which is which, but also, don't really need to. If in doubt, connect the lamp to one black/white pair. If the lamp lights, that pair is supply and that white is true neutral.

Lamps connect to switched hot, and neutral.


How to properly extend the TPR Pipe on a water heater

You can buy a replacement TPR drain tube for about $5 at any home improvement store.  Simply unscrew the old drain line, measure and cut the new line, then screw the new line in place.  You'll need two wrenches, and some PTFE tape (or whatever your preferred pipe dope is).

Place one wrench on the TPR valve, to prevent the valve from moving (a pipe wrench works well).
Place the other wrench on the drain tube.
Use the first wrench to hold the TPR in place, when you use the other to unscrew the drain pipe.
Cut the new pipe to length.
Apply PTFE tape (or your preferred pipe dope) to the threads of the pipe.
Use the two wrenches to install the new pipe.

NOTE: This answer assumes a side discharge, threaded TPR valve.

Technically, you cannot use SharkBite® connectors on the temperature relief valve drain. Temperature relief valves can be set as high as 210°F, while SharkBite® connectors are only certified to 200°F. However, your local building department may allow it, so check with them to see if it's acceptable.


Should I replace my breaker box due to its age?

Don't listen to the guy at the store telling you to toss out a perfectly serviceable QO box.  Parts for the QO line are available through practically every supply house in North America, and most of the big-box stores too -- it's quite common to this day in both residential and light commercial work, and as far as I know, hasn't been altered in a backwards-incompatible way since its introduction in 1955.

As a general rule -- if the panelboard is of a type still in use today (i.e. QO, Homeline, CH, BR, QP, or THQL), has the ampacity and physical space (incl. tandem/double-stuff slots), and is in good condition inside and out (no hot spots, arcs, or burnt insulation), it's a keeper.  It's those pesky FPE, Zinsco, and to a lesser extent Pushmatic panels that need to be sent to the smelter....


Since you are running your lineset inside run your power along with the line set.
Conduit up the wall from the panel enter the house and change over to NM cable. Or run n conduit inside your choice.
Run to the back wall. Most Electrician’s will use an LB conduit body to enter the home (and or exit). Run down to your disconnect with conduit.
To me that sounds like the cleanest install but you can run your conduit at the foundation. There is less chance of the conduit getting damaged up and inside schedule 40 pvc conduit inside would not be that hard to put in. Schedule 80 will be needed at the foundation level of using pvc. EMT can be used in both locations also. I prefer emt over pvc I think it is easier for sizes under 1” but that’s just an opinion many people use pvc. Note; You will probably need an expansion joint with pvc outside along the foundation.


Confusion about main disconnect ampacity

It's not clear to me why they're limiting you to 120V @ 30A. Everything about this suggests that the transformer capacity available up at the pole is very limited, and they would be unable to supply 100A-200A @240V to each residence.

  Interestingly, they are instructing you to wire your meter with the neutral through the meter. Normally, the meter does not measure neutral, only the hots.  As such, this meter will be effectively recording double the current.  It is literally measuring current coming and going, akin to a theater charging your entry and your exit as two admissions.  As such its current readings should be divided in half.   If it's a smart-meter which measures voltage across the supply, then it should be able to accurately compute KWH, but watch out.

120V is very sensitive to voltage drop, hitting 3% drop at only 60 feet or so.  So you should upsize the wires as much as you can bear.  The two-#8 setup they are requiring is perfectly capable of supporting 240V with the voltage drop in mind, assuming you are forever stuck at 120V @ 30A.  However we certainly hope they will provide better service someday.  The max the 3/4" plastic conduit can hold is three 6 AWG THwN wires, which will support 60A @ 240V in the future.  For today, install two of them and add the third on that future happy day.

If you want to be cheap, still use #6, but use aluminum wire.  That is the equivalent of #8 copper, and is perfectly fine in service/feeder applications like this.  Make sure the 30A breaker is AL-rated, if not, stick 6" pigtails of #10Cu on it.

30A @ 120V is very, very small service.  I have it myself, in my US apartment (didn't even know this til just recently, and the master never tripped, but it is FPE so that is to be expected). 30A@120V provides 3600W, and will allow you to run no more than two heat-making appliances at once: hair dryer, microwave, portable heater, toaster oven, hot plate, laser printer, gaming PC, etc.

Don't let the very small service deter you from putting in a full and proper service panel with many circuits.  It doesn't matter how many circuits are in your panel; it matters how much actual load you draw on them.  For instance if I owned this place I'd slap in a 30-space (3PE, a 42-space won't fit lol) and probably put in 25 circuits, all 20A.  This wouldn't have any effect on the actual load, because we'll still use the same appliances the same ways. For us it would eliminate the "kitchen dance" where we can only run 1 heat-making appliance at once because the kitchen only has 1 20A circuit.

And then of course in the happy day they upgrade your service, you are ready to make the most of it.

Again, the draw on your service isn't decided by how many breakers are in your panel.  It's decided by what's plugged in and turned on.

Oh, speaking of that, your "main" panel inside your house does need to have a main breaker of its own, or some other obvious master shutoff switch nearby. That is because it's an outbuilding.  Since your "main panel" only has 6 spaces, you might slide by with the old "Rule of Six" (you must be able to de-energize the whole house with no more than 6 breaker throws), but I thought that rule was outlawed.

It does not matter if the 30A supply feeds a 60A, 100A, 200A or even 400A "main panel" in the house.  The important job is protecting the wire to the house, and the 30A breaker does that just fine.

As far as grounding, you definitely need grounding rods, water pipe ground or Ufer ground at the house.  Because of that, I am advising to treat the long conduit run like it's a service lateral, and ignore the fact that the meter and main breaker are back at the pole.  That will remove the need to run ground in the conduit (rather silly, IMO, a ground rod at the pole contributes nothing to safety, and you need the house ground rods in any case).


Bury water pipes, gas line, and electrical pipe

Materials selection

There are three materials that you can practically use for a buried potable water line: CPVC, PEX/PEX-AL-PEX, and copper.  Of these, PEX is the easiest to install, while copper is the most proven in-service, with CPVC being a middle ground.  While there is straight PVC that is used for utility water service lines, most PVC pipe readily available is DWV (drain-waste-vent) pipe that is not approved for potable water service.  (If you doubt me, Tables 605.3 & 605.4 in the 2015 IPC refer to different standards than tables 702.1 and 702.2 regarding PVC pipe.)

As to the propane gas line, you must contact your gas supplier for acceptable materials.  If you can't get a response from them, Schedule 40 or heavier black iron with joint compounds labeled as suitable for all gasses always works.  (The Code approval for copper in gas applications depends on the amount of sulfur in the gas, and using plastic for gas lines requires lots of special work that renders it infeasible for anyone but a gas utility.  See NFPA 58 and NFPA 54, as well as the 2015 IFGC, for details.)

Last but not least, you'll want to lay conduit for the electric lines instead of a direct bury cable.  In a co-trench situation like this, I would use a nonmetallic, physical damage rated conduit such as Schedule 80 PVC or RTRC-XW.  Direct burial of metallic conduits is also possible, but offers little advantage over PVC given the issues with corrosion a buried metal conduit faces, unless you use red brass that is, which is extremely costly compared to PVC.

If you must use a direct bury cable, PVC jacketed MC-HL is recommended as it provides enhanced damage protection and leakage current control compared to a standard MC cable's interlocked armor, although it can be harder to find.  Do not bury an unjacketed metal-armored cable, or NM for that matter!

Trenching

The minimum trench depth for a gas line is 12", and the same is true for water lines where freezing is not a concern.  The electrical, though, must be deeper (either 18" or 24" deep), so that sets your trench depth.  Width is not critical save for being able to properly install the piping with due concern for expansion (especially for CPVC pipe and rigid nonmetallic conduits).

As always, make sure to excavate safely -- call your local One-Call or equivalent utility marking facility before you dig!


How deep should liquidtight flex conduit be burried?

356.10 Uses Permitted. LFNC shall be permitted to be used in exposed or concealed locations for the following purposes:
Informational Note: Extreme cold may cause some types of nonmetallic conduits to become brittle and therefore more sus-ceptible to damage from physical contact.
(1) Where flexibility is required for installation, operation, or maintenance.
(2) Where protection of the contained conductors is required from vapors, liquids, or solids.
(3) For outdoor locations where listed and marked as suit-able for the purpose.
(4) For direct burial where listed and marked for the purpose.

Notice number 4.
Here is an excerpt from the UL Whitebook concerning LFNC

Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit, Liquid-tight (DXOQ) USE AND INSTALLATION
This category covers liquid-tight flexible nonmetallic conduit, in trade sizes 3/8 in. to 4 (metric designators 12 to 103) inclusive, for installation in accordance with Article 356 of ANSI/NFPA 70, ‘‘National Electrical Code'' (NEC).
This product may also be used for installation of conductors for electric signs and outline lighting in accordance with the NEC.
PRODUCT MARKINGS Liquid-tight flexible nonmetallic conduit suitable for direct burial and in poured concrete is marked ‘‘Direct Burial,'' ‘‘ Burial,'' ‘‘Dir Burial'' or ‘‘Dir Bur.'' Liquid-tight flexible nonmetallic conduit suitable for use outdoors is marked ‘‘Outdoor.''

According to Table 300.5 column 3 you would need 18" of cover. If you have a 120volt circuit that is GFCI protected you can reduce the cover to 12".
Notice the table reads "minimum cover requirements" NOT burial depth. With small raceways this is insignificant but larger raceway should be measured to the top of the raceway not the depth of the trench.
[Note: I had previously cited Article 350 which is LFMC not LFNC and referred to manufacturers information for burial depth which is actually covered by Table 300.5 of the code. Upon re-reading the Code I edited this answer accordingly adding the citation to the UL Whitebook. Hopefully this clarifies some things.]
Good luck and stay safe!


How do I measure for replacement screws?

I went to my local hardware store and worked with the clerk to find the right screw. I was able to measure the millimeters in depth and I already knew it was a machine screw type.

We went through about 12 different screws until we found what we were looking for.

In case anyone was wondering, I was looking for mounting screws to fit the riser of my recurve bow.


How do i turn off the hot water so i can fix a leaking hot tap

In an ideal world, there will be an isolating valve (see below) under the sink which you just turn.

Given you are asking the question, there probably isn't.

In that case you need to follow the pipework back until you find a valve.  Places to look:

If you have a hot water tank, there may be a valve to prevent any water coming out of it.  If there is, you can use that.
(If you have a hot water tank, and have to use any of the following valves, you may have to drain the hot water tank).  Check if there is a valve to stop water flowing in to the hot water tank.
Check if there is a valve before or after the boiler.
If you have a cold water tank, there may be a valve to stop water coming out of it.
Ultimately, you may have to turn off all water to the house (and if you have a cold water tank, you will have to drain it).  You do know where the main water stop-cock is don't you?  If not, now is a really good time to find it!  (Not when there is water pouring through a ceiling.)

Depending on how far back you have to go in order to cut off the water, you might want to consider taking this opportunity to add some additional isolating valves - it's very easy.


J Channel Looks Wrongly Installed And How To Fix (Water Leak)

EDIT, due to new info: Thank you very much for the further investigation! I assumed too much and should've asked if there were any other siding penetrations above.

Anyway yes, a quick and easy fix is to apply a liberal amount of almond color (whatever comes closest) caulk that's fingered or forced into any gap at just the top and sides...so any water gathered at the bottom can still drip out and breath to evaporate.

Don't fill the back of the vent with caulk. Instead use a Foam Backer Rod or even thick weather-stripping to give the caulk something to seal onto. And still, probably do 2 applications of caulk, to make sure the 3-sides are filled and adequately thick.

A proper permanent fix is at the end, but 2 materials in an optional non-removal of the vent is to either install the Drip Cap mentioned below/initially or a piece of Step-Flashing to the top of the vent, which tucks under the siding. Step-Flashing is much more customizable.

Your vent was installed with the row above as an overhang to keep water out. Unfortunately, this only works with correct J-channel picture frames (just like a window) or J-channeled penetration boxes and not with the entirely wrong vent that protrudes as much as the siding itself and has no top and sides flashing flanges.

However, you're lucky. You can just cut the siding's locking lip out of the row above the vent to get the Drip Cap or Step-Flashing flange behind the siding. You still want a tight Z-shape to your flashing, which is why I think the Step-Flashing will work out best with possibly just household scissors. You'd still caulk the sides as a wind precaution, but the top flashing would really do everything needed.

Finally, the best option is to remove the siding and old vent, which seems to be a 1-piece construction. You want a 2-piece construction that has an installation flange where the vent flaps snap onto and holds the siding to the wall...see Instructions/Assembly here, not Installation Guide here for what I'm saying https://www.homedepot.com/p/Builders-Edge-4-in-Hooded-Vent-117-Bright-White-140116774117/100673014

Further, there are also 1-piece penetration boxes that have seamless J-channel built-in (backed picture frame of J-channel to cut your own hole into for whatever accessory), but only roofing and siding suppliers have those and may not sell to an individual...definitely try online or in person though, if it's what you might want.

=====================================================

I do still think you should do the below. As, water may still be running on top of the "black stuff" and will find its way in, if it hasn't started to already.

You are very correct that it's very wrong. Ideally, you should have a Drip Cap under the top J-channel. But, many installers just use the J-channel itself as the Drip Cap, since it's a little more uniform looking and of course faster and cheaper..."experts" cutting corners (literally in your case) because they know what they can get away with.

However, you can correct the inherited problem fairly easily for each window and door within the siding (I put Drip Cap everywhere possible). By, buying Drip Cap and either installing it correctly and pulling the siding panel free for a complete re-do or by cutting the Drip Cap's back off to just slip it under the J-channel.

Either way means you cut a tab into each end of the Drip Cap's bottom back corner, which is then bent down into the side J-channels to direct water harmlessly away from the top corners. Here's a great video demonstrating the proper process of J-channeling, top piece starts at about 12-min. How To Install J Channel (Vinyl Siding) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmiN3BnOu3w


Is "14 AWG" NM-B allowed by the newest NEC for new residential construction?

There is nothing in the NEC that forbids 15A circuits with 14AWG wire in new work

There is nothing in the NEC (2014 or 2017) that forbids the use of 15A circuits wired with 14AWG NM-B for general lighting and receptacles (irrespective of occupancy).  Some localities do amend the Code to require the use of 20A branch circuits (with 12AWG wire, of course) for general lighting and receptacles in some or all occupancies, though, and there are also electricians who do not install 15A branch circuits, preferring to stick to 20A as a point of practice, but neither of these reflect on what the NEC actually says.


Is there space between plaster ceiling lath and joists?

No there is no space between your plaster/wall and the joist.  However, old house walls were sometimes constructed without a top plate or bottom plate so it would be no problem for a rodent in your wall to get to the attic and run around.


How can I pick a smoke detector that only detects smoke and not heat?

TL;DR Your older detector, statistically speaking, is likely ionization, so your newer detector, which is photoelectric (both because you said so and due to current market conditions as explained below) may do better because it is different or simply because it is newer. But either way, the problem is likely steam and not heat because standard $ 10 - $ 50 residential smoke detectors do not detect heat.

Most residential smoke detectors do not detect heat. That is one advantage of sprinklers (aside from the fact that sprinklers actively protect people & property, rather than just notifying you of a problem) - sprinklers have a fusible link that melts and lets the water through - no electronics involved. Sprinklers are required in many locations for new construction of all homes and/or for renovation of multi-family homes. But that is a separate topic. Back to smoke detectors. There are two basic types:

Ionization

Photoelectric

You can find a reasonably good explanation of the differences on Wikipedia.
But the short answer is that both types detect smoke, not heat, but they do it using different technology. Each one is better/faster at detecting different types of fires.
I just replaced one of my smoke detectors and the replacement is a photoelectric model. I found that unusual because for many years, ionization models have been the norm. In fact, my understanding is that the "10 year smoke detector rule" - instead of replaceable batteries, all residential battery powered smoke detectors now have a built-in maximum lifetime of 10 years - is based on two factors:

Practical - A lot of people take out the battery when the low battery chirps in the middle of the night and forget about replacing the battery until it is too late.

Technical - Ionization detectors are based on a teeny bit of radioactive material which, due to the laws of physics gradually becomes less effective. It doesn't matter whether there are any fires, ambient temperature & humidity (which affect electronics in general), or whether the unit has ever been turned on.

I am not sure how much of the current debate over ionization detectors is based on "Oh no, you want me to put a radioactive device in my house! The horror! We'll all become zombies/Godzilla! We're doomed!" - to which I can say "Let's ban bananas next!" and refer you to the obligatory XKCD (thank you @spikey_richie), vs. an actual scientific analysis of which detectors work best overall when it comes to saving lives and property. But the end result is that several US states have banned or restricted ionization detectors (or alternatively, required photoelectric detectors) and major manufacturers and retailers far prefer to manufacture and sell a single product line across the entire country, so ionization detectors are rapidly disappearing from store shelves.


Poly will wear faster than a standard floor urethane product. Stain color is your preference. Any stain will work on any wood. If you want to compare stains on wood, visit a store with stains, they should have a sample chart with different wood species and show how the stain absorbes into each one. You will need to sand the floor completely with a floor sander before attempting this work.

More info on hardwoods used for flooring


Why is newly applied asphalt not smooth?

That is terrible and totally unacceptable.

There are several issues: 1) insufficient asphalt to bind the aggregates, 2) no compaction, 3) improper aggregate mix,

1) Asphalt (liquid) should be a thick soupy consistency that completely coats the aggregates throughout the top 2” minimum layer.

2) With loose rocks laying on the top, this is an indication that it was not compacted. Rocks should not be able to be kicked off your driveway.

3) The aggregate mix is very specific for good performance. There needs to be a certain amount of fines (sand), 1/4” minus (small crushed rocks), and 3/4” minus crushed rocks. This is important so that the rocks “bind” together when compacted. (There should NOT be any smooth edged rocks anywhere in the mix. Smooth rocks are not crushed rocks and will not bind together with other rocks.)

I’d dig up a couple of random spots and check the depth of the asphalt and the base. The minimum asphalt depth is 2” and minimum base is 4”...good practices require a minimum of 8” base.

I’d also notify the local Building Official and the local Construction Contractor’s Board (CCB).  Get their CCB license number and file a complaint. (They can help to resolve the issue.) I’d also contact a local civil engineer to review the project.

It’s the worst I’ve ever seen.


1x2 furring strips will work but should be pressure treated. I'd also go the extra "mile" and use green or other moisture resistant drywall.


Can I use a 20 amp and a 15 amp breaker on one 12-3 wire split into 2 circuits with a common ground

I believe that it would be against the NEC to have these two seperate circuits with a shared neutral and not have them on a double pole breaker (or at the very least a handle tie between a 15A and a 20A breaker).

Branch Circuit, Multiwire. A branch circuit that consists of two or more ungrounded conductors that have a voltage between them, and a grounded conductor that has equal voltage between it and each ungrounded conductor of the circuit and that is connected to the neutral or grounded conductor of the system
210.4 Multiwire Branch Circuits.
(B) Disconnecting Means. Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates.

A double pole breaker will simultaneously disconnect both circuits and satisfy the code requirement.
20A breaker is required and 12 gauge copper 10 gauge aluminum is the minimum depending on how long the circuit run is.
Furthermore even if it is on a 20A circuit, you are not required to upgrade your 15A outlets to 20A outlets.  This is only required if there exists a single receptacle on the circuit.  One can only plug in 15A max devices into a 15A outlet, therefore the 20A load circuit load would not be achieved on a single device.
It might also be a code requirement now for a detached building to have its own grounded sub-panel as well but that I will have to look into.


Constantly running toilet with floatless fill valve

The internal gasket/diaphragm needs replacing, check out this link.

It does appear that you could extend the flush valve overflow tube as the height appears to be below the water level mark on your tank. That mark is actually the right level for optimal flush performance for your toilet. If the valve is worn out it may not help though, although the weight of the additional water may get it to stop. You might try opening the valve up and gently rinsing the gasket, in case there is debris or build-up interfering with proper operation (turn the water supply off first!)


How to run conduit from external wall into basement cellar

The "unused chimney flue as electrical chase" seems like an ideal solution to both "historical appearance issues" and roof to basement access.

I can't see a code issue with that, if done properly.


Insinkerator Instant Hot SSRV-1 Spitting Air -- Need Ball Valve

I believe you can add one one way check valve to the vent line going out to the dispenser (red circled line in your photo) oriented to allow air to exit if the expansion tank fills but will not allow it to suck air in when operating the dispenser.


How does the smart switch learns my wifi settings?

It is not possible to give you an answer to your question that covers the exact details because there are a range of different technologies in use for smart devices. I will list a few of them here:

1) Some smart devices use proprietary wireless RF connections to a hub device that then in turn connects to your network. The hub knows how to search for devices to establish pairing via the RF connection. Often the pairing requires placing the smart device in a pairing mode so it announces itself to the hub. Setting up the hub on the local network will typically use a wired connection and get an IP address via DHCP.

2) Some smart devices use a proprietary communications protocol over the power line to a hub device that then in turn connects to your local network. Operation is similar to as described in (1) above.

3) Other smart devices have a full WiFi end point built right in. These devices are most often configured by using an App in a smart phone that talks to the smart device using a separate protocol from the phone over Blue Tooth. The smart device is typically initially placed into a Blue Tooth pairing mode and the App on the phone automates the pairing. Information about the WiFi connection is passed from the App to the smart device via the paired Blue Tooth connection.

4) There are smart devices that have a full WiFi end point built in but also have a display and buttons or a touch screen. WiFi connection information for these is entered directly into the device via this user interface. This is often seen with smart thermostat units.

5) There are a class of smart devices that have the WiFi end point but also have a USB connection. The USB connection is attached to a  laptop or PC and used in a setup mode with an App on the laptop or PC to configure the WiFi connection information in the smart device  through this USB interface. This type of setup has been common with some types of WiFi access routers.

6) Yet another class of smart devices that have a WiFi interface can be placed into a setup mode by pressing a button or switch. Often an LED will blink to show it is in the setup mode. In this mode the smart device acts as a WiFi access point and advertises a specific SSID. An app on a smart phone makes the phone search for that SSID and will temporarily connect the phone to that access point. Once connected the App can configure the smart device according to the SSID and password for the local network. An example of this scheme can be found in the more recent models of the Sonoff Wi-Fi smart switches.


Nest thermostat wiring to First Co air handler

You want the brown wire
Based on the diagrams in the manual, the brown wire is the C wire you're after, so connect the blue wire in your thermostat cable to the existing bundle there.  We can also tell it's your C wire from the fact the cable off to your air conditioner's outdoor unit connects to that wire in addition to the yellow Y wire from your thermostat.


Do HVAC technicians need to be registered or licensed?

I see 2 different trains of thought on this, if I was called to do an emergency repair that is a call that can be charged for even if the unit was not repairable. But if called for a quote on updating a system that would be different some do charge for quotes but take it off when they get the job, most don't charge for quotes. But it sounds like an emergency call was made so there could be a charge without a contract. But yes contractors need to be licensed and for hvac also need an EPA license called 608 1, 2 or 3 if they have all 3 it is called a universal license, but a 609 license is also required for motor vehicles to be able to do everything.


Assuming that this is a locking tongue-and-groove product... Rip the strip and install it as normal. There's no reason at all not to, and it happens on almost every flooring install in one place or another. Your shoe will help secure it and it won't look like some sort of hack.


Do I need a wooden frame for my plexiglas shelf door?

Plexiglas can be fairly flexible, unless you get thicker (more expensive)  sheets. If you're happy with how it looks/feels, then you could mount it directly... but glass is more commonly used "bare" this way due to its greater rigidity.


230 volts on receptacle box when it should be 120 volts

CALL YOUR UTILITY -- YOUR POWER MIGHT AS WELL BE OUT

Your neutral finally went kablooie.  Call your utility NOW on their emergency/power outage number as this situation has already damaged appliances and could start an electrical fire.  In the meantime, turn off your main breaker to prevent further damage to appliances.


What do I level a 2" slope in my concrete basement floor?

I am currently finishing a basement and it almost seems like you are describing mine!  Slope, dimensions, and all.

If money is no object then have this section leveled.  Easy as that.  Will it drain properly.  No.

But if you are working on a budget and want it to look nice then you need to look at what options fit.  So ceramic flooring is out.  Hardwoods, even floating, is out.  So either carpet the floor or put down some rubber backed laminate (completely waterproof).  We are doing a combo of the waterproof laminate (they sell it in-stock at HD - Lowe's doesn't have it) and carpet in mine.  The waterproof laminate comes in like 30 different patterns, looks nice and costs about $3 a sq/f.  If your basement has potentially a lot of water issues I would go with the laminate.

Also a note on laminates... Water-resistant is not waterproof.  I let the HD stuff sit in a bucket of water and it didn't change for three days.  I also got some water-resistant samples (and even some cork-backed "water-proof") samples.  All of the others were mushy or expanded a lot after three days.  I have to think what would happen if I went on vacation and water got in.  Make sure the water-proof stuff is made out of pure "rubber".


A block plane might work but you're going to have a very tough time taking down 1cm of wood over such a long length. If you do use a plane, go in small increments and make sure you keep your blade as sharp as possible.

A belt sander will work better, provided you use 40 or 60 grit sandpaper. Anything higher (smoother) and it will take you an eternity. My biggest caution with a belt sander is to be careful to work evenly. It's easy to get distracted and create a divot where you've sanded too much.

If the sanding is daunting or you want something with more precision, I would recommend using a handheld router with a flush trim router bit. This will get you a nice clean edge. I would try to get the board trimmed down to less than 1/4" overhang or so first if possible, with a jigsaw or something. Then clamp a long straight piece of wood along the line you want to keep.

If there's enough of an overhang to get enough stability for a circular saw and a guide, that would also work. But it sounds like the overhang is too small for that.


Asbestos was identified in the 70’s as a health concern by the late 80’s it had strict regulations for inspecting and removal although the EPA ban in the US & many other countries also banned asbestos. Asbestos was still legal into the early 90’s in some areas if you are concerned have the material tested. Color of a material is not an indication if it has asbestos.

With all that said most contractors quit using asbestos based products prior to the mid 80’s due to lawsuits, but testing is the only way to know with certainty.


If you can tolerate appearing as if you are breaking and entering, you can use Daniel Gricom's solution with a bit of mechanical ingenuity. Many garage doors will have a small gap at the top, where the door meets the framing. If not, a wedge can be forced into the area near the center of the top.
This will allow you to drop a sturdy line from the top of the door, past the cylinder lock hole. The next tool required is an expandable noose or other gripper tool, but it has to fit either under the door or through the cylinder lock hole. The former is more likely but will also require a wedge in that location.
A quick search of the 'net leads me to believe that there is no off-the-shelf tool of this nature. This leaves a section of garden hose or similar tubing of sufficient length to reach from under the door to the internal manual door release. A section of braided cable, perhaps 1/16- 1/8" diameter would be threaded into the hose with both ends free at the outside end of the hose. Stiffer is better as will be seen later.
The first line from the top is used to lift the hose to snare the handle. You'll have to have enough of a loop to extend from the inside surface of the door to the release handle, perhaps 24-30".
Twisting the hose from below the door will swing the loop until the snare can be effected.
The difficult portion of this requires one to see the snare and the handle. Two telephones with facetime or similar video capability is one method, again using the gap created by the wedge. The typical home colonoscopy kit, also known as a digital inspection camera will not have the focal length necessary, although the flexibility aspect is a boon.
Once the snare is around the handle, one should be able to pull the two loose ends and release the door.
One of the related answers in the margin suggests also a YouTube video using only a coat hanger. That particular garage has windows at precisely the level required for an easy open.


Are you considering passing a constant current through the clamp in a wet environment?

BTW, these have been the standard "go to" clamp for this purpose for more years than I know of, and I have not seen one where galvanic corrosion has made a hole in the copper pipe.

In the UK, all copper pipes have to be bonded including gas pipe supply as well. The clamps are as you describe, with an aluminum label about 2" by 1" with an embossed warning that it is for earth bonding - can't remember the actual text but probably easy to find : google...

Fit it, making sure the copper is clean, free from paint etc otherwise the paint is an insulator.


There are plastic fittings with a rectangular opening on the downspout end and are round on the other end.

downspout to pvc pipe


How can I get a brick out of my drain pipe?

First, do not attempt to break the brick into any more pieces, should you succeed these pieces may get lodged further down the pipe making it that much more complicated (and expensive) to resolve.

Unfortunately the only solution will be to cut the section of pipe that the brick is stuck in and remove it.

Call a plumber: it already sounds like you are in over your head; a qualified professional will be able to resolve the situation for you without further compromising the drainage system.


How should I evaluate my central A/C to see if it's working properly?

When the person you spoke to said to measure the "temperature difference between the return and supply sides". What they were talking about, is what's known as Delta T (of the evaporator).  It sounds like you took the first measurement in the proper place (or close to it), but not the second measurement.  The "supply side" refers to the air just after it passes through the evaporator, while "the return" is referring to the air going in to the evaporator.
You could also measure the Delta T of the condenser, but I'm not sure how useful that is. Simply measure the ambient air around the condensing unit, then measure the temperature of the air exiting the condensing unit.  The difference in these values is the Delta T of the condenser.
There are three values HVAC technicians typically use to evaluate a system. Superheat, subcooling, and the Delta T (of the evaporator).
Superheat
This is the number of degrees a vapor is above its saturation temperature (boiling point), at a particular pressure.
Calculate Superheat
To determine the superheat of a system:

Using a gauge, measure the pressure on the low side (suction) line.
Using a chart for the type of refrigerant, convert pressure to temperature [Saturation Temperature].
Using a thermometer, measure the temperature of the low side (suction) line [Line Temperature].
Calculate superheat [Line Temperature] - [Saturation Temperature]

At 75°F - 85°F ambient temperature, superheat should be 12-15°. Above 85°F ambient, superheat should be 8-12°. Check manufacturer documentation for recommended superheat values.
Superheat too high
If superheat is too high, it means that not enough coolant is entering the evaporator. This leads to poor refrigeration, and wasted energy.
Superheat too low
If superheat is too low, it means the evaporator is being flooded with coolant. This could lead to liquid refrigerant getting back to the compressor, which can be really bad.
Subcooling
This is when the liquid refrigerant is colder than the minimum temperature required to keep it from boiling.
Calculate Subcooling
To determine the subcooling of a system:

Using a gauge, measure the pressure on the high side (liquid) line.
Using a chart for the type of refrigerant, convert pressure to temperature [Saturation Temperature].
Using a thermometer, measure the temperature of the high side (liquid) line [Line Temperature].
Calculate subcooling [Saturation Temperature] - [Line Temperature]

Subcooling should typically be around 12-15°. Check manufacturers documentation for recommended subcooling.
Subcooling too high
If subcooling is too high, it means the condenser is flooded. This could lead to the compressor working too hard, and possibly being flooded with liquid refrigerant (which is really bad).
Subcooling too low
If subcooling is too low, the refrigerant can "flash" or boil before it reaches the evaporator. This will lead to the metering device not being able to properly meter the refrigerant, which leads to poor refrigeration.
Delta T
Knowing the change in temperature of the air moving through the evaporator can also be useful.
Calculate Delta T
To determine Delta T:

Measure the plenum air temperature about 12" from the evaporator.
Measure the return air temperature close to the unit.
Take the difference.

Typically, Delta T should be 15-18°F. Check manufacturers documentation for recommended Delta T range.
Delta T too low
This is usually caused by return air bypassing the coil. Make sure the evaporator is properly sealed to the unit. It can also be a symptom of low refrigerant, bad compressor valves, or a leaking reversing valve.
Delta T too high
This is commonly caused by low air flow across the coil. Make sure the filter is clean, and the fan is set to the proper speed (on multi-speed units).
Diagnosis using superheat and subcooling
Knowing only superheat, or subcooling is not enough. To figure out what's going on, you'll have to use both values.
High Superheat, Low Subcooling
This usually means the system is undercharged.
High Superheat, High Subcooling
This likely means there is a blockage in the system.
Low Superheat, High Subcooling
This usually means the system is overcharged.
Low Superheat, Low Subcooling
This usually means too much liquid is being fed to the evaporator. Likely a problem with the metering device.
All values are based on my current R22 system. Values may vary from system to system, always check manufacturer documentation.


Why did the fill valve in my toilet pop up?

These fill valves are adjustable in height for various toilets
Ther is a simple way to lock it at the appropriate  height this video will help


Basement floors are not level if they are made right.   Throw in larger tiles and there will definitely be some ridges.   There is nothing to do to actually fix this permanently, you don't want to because the slope flows to a drain.
I would suggest that you use a trick that old carpenters used to level off subfloors for wood floors - rooftiles (asphalt shingles).   The are bigger on one end and the hold well - don't slide.   It will be painful to get this just right but I can't think of anything else I would use on something like this other than shingles.   Also you can usually pick these up cheap - find an open bag at big box or go to a resale material store and might run you $15.
You will need some heavy duty scissors to cut them and after you get things flat... if your green is still sliding you may still need some weight on it meaning you might have to lay some plywood down first before doing the green.


Removing washing paint stains from clothes

It's over.

They are beyond saving.  There was a chance when it was very fresh and wet, and if you started with the right thing (paint thinner) as mentioned on the paint can's label.  But once it dries, or you set it with the wrong chemical, it's all over but the shouting.

Why were you in fresh paint areas anyway? Stay away.


How do I plumb LP gas lines for multiple things? Tiki torches, grill, smoker

You are really asking a flow question.
How many CFM (cubic feet per minute) does a given size pipe supply.  The upper limit will be the meter capacity/ pipe size from the street.

Each device has a max flow rating.  Add them up and compare to the size piping you are planning to use.  Increase the pipe diameter as necessary (up to the size coming in to the meter.


How can I drill a straight hole without a drill press?

If you are set on using a hand-drill, there are jigs available that will keep the drill perpendicular to the object being drilled.  Alternatively, holding a level against the drill will help you keep it aligned.

I would suggest using a Forstner bit instead of a spade bit.  Spade bits can jump around a bit, tear out and are not that precise. They are good for rough work, but a Forstner bit will give you a much cleaner cut.

That being said, a drill press is the best tool for this, and they can be purchased relatively inexpensively.  You could also find a  "maker" workshop in your area, or a college with a shop where often you can rent time and use their tools.


how to find circuit breaker for exterior light

Turn off half the panel

And go see if the light is still on.  You now know which half of the panel it is.

Turn off half those breakers.   You now know which quarter of the panel it is.

Note that you do not need to see the light go out.  If it remains on, that tells you it's in the "unturned off" half of the breakers you are testing.

Now turn off half of the quarter.  Still on? That means it's in the half of the quarter (1/8)  you did not turn off.  Divide that in two (1/16) and go again.

You should be able to get there in five, maybe six on a big panel.


Is 10/2 cable appropriate for a 240V, 30A garage heater outlet?

These heaters need what the UL-approved instructions say they need.  However this heater is rated for a 20.8A draw.

For heaters, we must provision 125% of that, or 26 amps.  That is too much for a 20A circuit, and appropriate for 30A.

10/2 will get the job done for this one task.  But it'll do more for your resale if you use 10/3, because that will allow you to fit a dryer or subpanel here in the future. (a subpanel is an easy solution to the old saw + dust collector problem and many other problems you get as you develop your wood or machine shop). You can go ahead and use a NEMA 6-30 receptacle, and just cap off the neutral.

Speaking of over-wiring, there is certainly no harm in using 8/3 or even 6/3 cable, which would allow larger heaters or full development of that subpanel.  The ultimate "future expansion" option is to fit 3/4" conduit instead of cable, and simply throw the wires into the pipe that suit your needs at the moment.


Loads are based on use...not all loads are the same.

Floor loads are considered permanent loads (100%), while snow loads are considered short term loads (periodically loaded).  Snow in some areas are rated very short term, less than 7 days (125% stress). Some snow loads are rated short term, less than 1 month (115% stress).

What this means is that you’re allowed to increase the allowable stress by a factor of 15% or 25%, respectively.

Little known fact: when a single joist/beam is calculated, allowable stress values are less than if they are repetitive. That is to say, joists or beams installed repetitive (say 16” o.c.) can use a higher allowable stress value than a single joist/beam.


Changing 240 tankless water heater to 120v tank heater

As far as wire size, you're always allowed to use bigger wire than is required.  Stay under 50A and that #8 will be fine.

As far as breakering that 18A heater at 30A, let's look at that.  You must derate a heater by 125% of its nameplate rating. 18A x 125% = 22.5A.  So you need at least a 22.5A breaker.  You can round up.  30A looks okay to me, unless your AHJ insists on you using 25A.

Powering a 120V load off half a 30A breaker is fine.  In fact I recommend using a 2-pole breaker for a 1-pole/30A load, because 2-pole 30A breakers are commonly used, and 1-pole 30A breakers are unlikely to have another use.


How do I remove these fence post spikes?

I'd say to use a farm jack.

Use a pry-bar or a 2x4 and a block of wood till you can fit a farm jack under it.
happy jacking.


How would one plumb two bathrooms from one rough-in?

You are "f'ing" crazy if you think that raising part of your floor is easier than doing some very very minor concrete work.   There are all these gotchas for raising a floor and then finishing it so it doesn't look ghetto.
Now for doing it right there is breaking concrete, creating a bed for pipe, laying pipe, backfilling, and then adding in quickmix concrete.   It is 8 hours of work.   You will spend days trying to figure out how to put a toilet on an elevated box that looks OK.
Just do it right.   The elevated floors should be a last case emergency thing.   I have finished hmmmmm maybe 50+ basements never have I raised the floor to tie into the stack.
Also from a DIYer perspective, when you are breaking the concrete and filling... there is nothing anyone can see.   You can mess something up or have a half assed finish and no one sees it.   You raise floors and every carpentry thing sticks out like a sore thumb, every edge, every finish.    You may be scared to break the sledgehammer out on the floor but in reality you are creating 5-10 times the work for yourself AND IT WILL LOOK WORSE EVEN IF YOU FINISH IT GOOD.
Note:  The hardest part of breaking up a basement floor is carrying buckets of concrete out (assume 20) and disposing them.   Everything else is really easy.  I did want to mention this because it is a workout.


How to combine flat and split lock washers on a bolt

They gave you four lock washers instead of 4 locking nuts. No problem. Install the bolts as shown in the instructions. Then install a flat washer on each bolt followed by a lock washer and then the nut. Tighten as specified.

Picture Source


If any of the wires are closer than 1-1/4" from the surface of the stud it requires a steel plate to protect the wire. If the hole is 1-1/4" from the face of the stud it is 100% code legal.


How can I install a water inlet for a dishwasher?

Where does the hose in that image currently go? Is that an existing dishwasher inlet or does it go somewhere else like a laundry closet or to a sprayer/sink?

Also, we need to know what type of fitting the dishwasher inlet will be. Most that I know of are threaded flex hose.

The part you show does not look like what you want, if you just want to screw it into your existing fitting. This part designed to be inserted into the middle of an ordinary copper pipe using compression fittings that join to an unthreaded copper or nylon pipe end, providing a ball-valve connection in the middle of that pipe suitable for a washing machine. You CAN use this, especially since you have a shutoff valve (which appears to have been installed in much the same way), but you must permanently alter your plumbing by cutting some part of the pipe in half to put this fitting in.

What you probably want is a male-male-female NPT equal tee or Y fitting, allowing you to screw in a second hose exactly like the one you have now. Something like this (from the same site) may fit the bill:

If you can find it in nickel-steel, it'll last a little longer, but this plastic fitting should be perfectly fine. Simple, near tool-less (just a pair of slip-joint pliers or a small strap wrench to tighten down the hoses), and undoable.


I live in Colorado, where it can go from 70F and sunny to 20F and snowing in a day. I have metal-clad wood windows in my house--not a problem.
Wood window manufacturers try to use wood that minimizes movement. Aluminum has a larger linear coefficient of thermal expansion than wood (12.3 versus 3.0), so I don't believe aluminum would handle temperature variation any better than wood. Perhaps the contractor is worried about other climate effects. I wouldn't do wood that isn't clad in Colorado, for instance, because you would have to refinish it every year--our sun is brutal to wood products.
Good windows are built in a manner to handle temperature fluctuations. Perhaps your climate is very extreme and I just don't know your local building requirements, but the contractor's reasoning sounds a little strange to me.


Overhead lights don't work but voltage meter shows sockets have power

Voltage testers can sometimes be tricky because they can show "phantom voltage" induced (well, capacitively coupled) from other wires.

However, the more likely problem is -- remember, current flows in loops -- and the safety ground wire is not a player.  So somewhere the loop is broken; if you're measuring voltage (hot to ground) then it's likely that side of the loop is OK. Check the neutral side.

The neutral side is trickier to test, because it's supposed to be near 0 volts.  However if it is broken, and a load is connected and turned on, then a disconnected neutral will float near 120V, and will give a voltage reading.


When is it necessary to do two coats of paint over a primer?

You should add another coat if you don't think it looks good enough. If you think it looks good with one coat, don't put on a second.

In more concrete terms, you generally add another coat if the color or finish is not even. That may come with one coat, or it may take two, three, or even more. It depends on the surface, the primer, the paint, any existing finish, technique, thickness of the coat of paint,  etc.

Covering up dark colors with light colors generally requires more coats, but a good primer can reduce the number of coats of paint needed. Using a tinted primer generally means fewer coats are needed.


What is the side load bearing capacity of wood screws?

If you used a set of simple pulleys similar to these:

And then used 5/16" type screw eyes that were inserted into studs or ceiling joists using the proper sized pilot holes:

This should lead to strong and robust bike hoist system.

Open the loop of the screw eye with the aid of a vice to hook the pulley on. Then squeeze the eye shut again using the vice. For pulleys that do not have swivel tops you can set the right direction for rope travel by how you orient the eye when screwing it into the stud.


How could I attach a face plate to a broken Appleby dry lining box?

The yellow lugs might not be officially removable.

In practice they are.

Whether you will be able to get the existing ones out, and replacement ones in, without causing damage to the rest of the box in situ (causing the mechanism to become inoperable) I woudln't like to say... but you have nothing to lose by trying.


How to remove the flush mount ceiling fixture

I don't think the "bulb" can be replaced as it doesn't contain a bulb. This fixture is only 1" deep. It most likely has a hardwired LEDs. I looked at the specs for this fixture at the link you provided and also downloaded and viewed the PDF specs. There's nothing mentioned about bulb replacement. I installed a similar fixture several weeks ago. The diffuser "globe" is what you should be trying to remove, not the trim ring.


One of the three clips will be spring loaded.
Pull straight out on it, while supporting the glass, and then the glass will be able to swing down and out of the other two.
Once the glass is removed you can access the fasteners, two screws or nuts, that are holding the fixture to the box in the ceiling.
Turn the breaker off that is supplying power to the light before you do anything with the wiring.


How do i disassemble this toe touch drain stopper?

Normally drain assemblies unscrew the entire flange. There is special wrench with pins that protrude and catch the cross bars just below the focus level. I have called them a basin wrench but looking online they were called a drain removal wrench. This unscrews the flange and the stopper comes out with it (or the ones I have had came apart this way)
Some of these drains are O ring sealed and some use plumbers putty to seal the flange to the tub. If it uses plumbers putty roll it out and coil it under the flange when the flange pulls tight it will squish out the excess wipe up with finger and it should be sealed.
If the drain uses an o ring clean the oring if in good shape reuse if not replace or use plumbers putty to seal.
I have used 3 screwdrivers in the past putting 2 in the drain and Holding them with 1 hand and the 3rd horizontally between the 2 and twist , I prefer the wrench as I have broken the cross metal piece 1 time so use caution if you try this method over a 10$ drain removal wrench.


advice on sealing crawlspace vents to outside air

If you seal the crawl space the humidity can rot wood and cause corrosion of metals. I had a similar house in northern IL, I guess it may have had more humidity. When I bought it in the 70's I added vents because the joists were black in places. There was also corrosion in the galvanized electric boxes in the house. My crawl space "floor" was just soil.


Which wood dimension to run on top of fence?

That's a 2x4.   It would look better on both sides of the fence if it were a 2x6 or 1x6, because then it would fully cover the posts.  Nail them down from the top, into the 4x4 post.


How to turn off a light sensor LED light?

The white "screws", are knockout plugs. A knockout is simply a hole where conduit, cable, wire, or a device can attach/enter the box. A knockout plug, is used to fill unused knockouts.
Here is a similar box cover with the knockouts unplugged.

This allows you to attach devices, like lamp holders and motion sensors.

Any extra holes would be filled with a plug.

Professional Help
You should be able to hire an Electrician to install a switch as you mention, but it would depend on if you have the legal right to (own vs. rent, etc.)


Will Kitchen Backsplash Update Trigger 2ft/4ft Rules of Receptacles above Countertop?

Even though you are replacing a backsplash you are not really remodeling or upgrading your electrical. I can't speak for every inspector but most would say it is alright to leave your receptacles as is under the grandfather clause.

One important note, even though you are being allowed to leave the receptacles in place I would recommend you add GFCI protection if it is not present, and it may be a required upgrade by your inspector. Since removing existing receptacle is a modification.


Patio Roofing Question - Transparent corrugated pvc covering

It will be (or had better be) polycarbonate or acrylic, not PVC, or it will die in the sun.

If you find it too clear to begin with, greenhouse suppliers have "paint on shade" and/or shadecloth, both come in white and in colors.

If all you want is shade, shadecloth might be a better choice than roofing, but of course it does not block rain. Shadecloth suspended above the glazing would likely do a slight better job of blocking heat than either paint or shadecloth laid right on the roofing.

Metal will be simply broiling hot.


How do I dig a fence post hole in a cramped corner?

I don't think there is any clever way to accomplish this that is going to make it any less unpleasant. It's a tight space and it doesn't sound like there's any hope of getting an auger in there. I'd get a nice sharp (yes, sharp) post hole digger and a spade, plus a wheelbarrow to haul the dirt out, and have at it. Really, digging a 3-4' hole there isn't going to be that awful.

Only thing I can think of that might make it easier is to try and convince your neighbors to temporarily take down part of their fences to clear the area and give you more area to work in. You might be able to grease the skids a bit if you pitch the new post as something that all of the fences could then attach to for improved support. Normal people aren't going to turn down your offer to improve their property for free, and the less work they have to do, the more true that becomes.

I'd actually like to see a photo of the current situation. 4 fences meeting like that with no solid support sounds really janky. I can't imagine anyone is particularly happy with it as-is.


Samsung automatic washing machine going off and on automatically!

This sounds like you could be having problems with the power mains that feed the washer going on and off. This could be caused by the power delivered to the dwelling going on and off due to poor power delivery system (highly dependent on your country location). Alternatively it could be caused by intermittent wiring from where the mains power enters the dwelling and then distributed to the washer location.

It there is poor power delivery then it should also be visible via blinking or flashing lights.

The latter case of the intermittent wiring can be a very dangerous situation as it can produce high heat and cause a dwelling fire. If you do not have the capabilities or confidence to investigate that then it is highly advised to call in a professional. In the mean time unplug the washer and stop using it until the electrical problem is fixed.