How do I reglaze my garage door windows?

Most likely you want to use window glaze more then caulking.  eHow has an 'ok' article on the differences, but is lacking some better detail.  However, there was a similar question on yesterdays contractor.com and the answer from Billy NY is excellent.  He covers the main reason to use glazing over caulking in certain situations, primarily when mixing substrates such as glass and wood.  He also mentions that silicon caulking can work well in some instances, but can't be painted where as window glaze can.

If you do re-glaze your window, popular mechanics has a great 'how-to' article with step by step directions.


The sprays are the official way to do it.  I don't really like the chemicals in them, but I do use them.

I've also used a candle, which I snuff out below the detector.  This is safer than the paper and produces more reliable smoke.


You might like "caster cups"

You can get them in a variety of colours, sizes and materials including transparent plastic.

For chairs that need to be slid in and out from under a table, you might need a type of caster cup specifically intended for that purpose

  The only castor cup where the wheels stay in the cup when furniture is moved

- From advertisement for "MagiGLIDE CASTOR CUP 4 PACK". I have not tried this and don't know if it is suitable for the intended use or whether the claims are justified.

Castor cups are usually cheap - it doesn't hurt to try them on one chair. You don't lose much if they turn out to be unsuitable.


Use the 10w-30.

If you store the blower in a warm place then you need do nothing further. If you store the blower in a cold place (around -20°C) then you should replace the 10w-30 with 5w-30 as soon as practicable. In the meanwhile, double or triple the warm-up period before engaging any load.

The first number is the viscosity as tested under cold conditions. The different oils are tested at cold temperatures particular to each viscosity. See the chart on this page. The second number is the viscosity at typical engine operating temperature (around 100°C).

If the first number is too high, the engine will not get enough oil flow when very cold. (Also it may be hard to start.) If the second number is too low, the oil will not protect the bearings enough when hot.

In your case, the 10w-30 may cause some excess wear for the first few minutes of operation if you store the blower outside, but the 5w-20 certainly won't provide enough protection once the engine is warmed up.


AC is dead, should we open the windows to release the heat and humidity?

I have no idea about the climate in Texas. Is it tropic/ rainforest-like? I live in Germany and we have such temperature days in summer, too. We do not have an air condition at all (not because of money, its not typical). Mode of operation is: during the day, lower the blind, to keep the sun out. At night, open windows (as soon as felt temperature outside gets lower than it is inside). We don’t have any problems with mold by this. If we have get mold, then it is typically in winter because walls are cool and humid air condenses, especially behind furniture positioned on walls to the outside.


Eliminating ticking noise of pipe in wall

Cut out the 1/2" drywall in the affected area & hot-patch in 1/4" drywall. A gap won't wear out over time, but any & all padding, greasing or spraying will. But yes, even a slight temperature increase will expand plastic plumbing.


Grounding a 2 gang metal box in a wet area

The fact that it's a wet location doesn't make a difference to how you make your wire connections (although it needs to be on a GFCI circuit because it's for a pool light). Connect a pig-tail ground wire the green screw on each of the switches and a 3rd one to the green screw on the box.  Wire nut all three of them together with the ground coming into the box.


Kitchen Physics: How to unstick metal pot lid from wooden salad bowl

Heat is the right thing here, even if it's steam. The lid will expand more than the wood will. I suggest putting a saucepan with water on the stove, and then placing the lidbowl on top of that. Heating the saucepan and water will directly heat the lid, and limit the amount of heat and steam on the bowl.


What kind of adhesive should be used to install marble tile?

Since it’s going to be in a “damp” area I would use thinset mortar. With tiles that large a large notch trowel will be needed.


Using buck/step up inverters for in-wall ovens

DO NOT USE 3-PHASE FOR THIS OVEN. You want a single/split-phase 100V/200V hookup.   The 200V open delta is absolutely incapable of providing essential voltages the oven needs.

Simple enough hookup

Japan is straight-up North American style split phase, and range/ovens are resistive devices, so this thing will work.  Voltage will be 17% less, amperage likewise... which means power will be 31% less.  It'll work, it'll be a little slower to heat up.

You'll need to use the same breaker size the instructions specify.  And make sure to connect it 4-wire, including a separate safety ground, and un-bond the neutral-ground strap on the range.

However, when in Rome, do like the Romans do

That said, I think a North American range in Japan is a mistake unless this is a standard/common appliance in Japanese homes. You are better off buying locally whatever Japanese tend to use.

The odd voltage and 69% performance is the least of the issues.  To start with, if it's weird, the next homeowner won't want it.   So you'll end up either scrapping it in place or taking it with you.

Japan is an island, and that means that beast will either need a ride in an airplane or containership.  Airplane means creating 10 times its weight in CO2 and more than its retail value in jet fuel.  It's an awful lot of cubic feet to use up in a valuable overseas container.

You're obviously a world traveler since  you have a sentiment for American goods and are now in Japan.  The idea of "taking it with you" is further corrupted by the fact that this unit will not work at all, anywhere else.  Not even the Philippines. Only North America, US possessions, and ... Japan.  Only.

Anywhere else, the answer would be "can't do it" or "hack it".

Ironically, the main reason ovens want 120V is so they can power oven lights, specifically so you can use readily available, indigenous oven lights.  So jumpering the oven light to run on 230V in a 230V country, is exactly what the manufacturer does. There may be some 120V electronics, but that could be handled with a tiny transformer.  Assuming the local power grid can provide 40A of single phase; many provide less of all 3 230V phases.


As guy that did this trade all his working life, I can DEFINITELY tell you that these proximity / non contact voltage detectors ARE NOT to be depended upon 100%.

They have their place and time, and they are to be treated as such. I have a Fluke™ Volt Alert 1AC-A II and while it's a great tester, it definitely is not the "End-All" of testers and it cannot ever be replaced by a wired / probe / lead tester.

I use these proximity testers for "quick and dirty" GENERAL testing purposes.

Get yourself a Fluke™ T5-1000 from Home Depot or Lowe's


Lowest height accepted for 30A Outdoor Fused Safety Switch for water well?

Read article 430.102 of the NEC for a description of why some well installations do not require a disconnect within sight of the motor. One of the examples used in describing the exception condition (a) is "submersible motors", which covers a lot of well pump motors. If you have a submersible, you don't need a disconnect at the top of the well, it can be elsewhere. If you have a jet pump or turbine pump where the motor is at the top, you do.

There is no general rule on minimum height, but there are several unrelated rules (mobile home and trailer pedestals, EV chargers, etc.) establishing 2ft from the ground as a minimum, so it's best to use that even though it doesn't apply. But if you are in a flood plain, you should pay attention to the "100 year event" level.


Circuit worked briefly after replacing GFCI, but stoppped

Non-contact voltage tester can be squirrely but assuming it's working I would do the following.
Make sure the GFCI is reset. With the faceplates removed start at the GFCI and carefully contact the hot lead on the line side of the GFCI. If it shows hot go to the load sign and do the same. If that is hot continue downstream checking each outlet until you isolate the problem area.
Once you do shut down the breaker and check the connections. Since you've had several issues with wires disconnecting make sure that you're not using backstabs - they are unreliable. Use the screws and always wrap the copper around the screw in a clockwise direction. I would also suggest that you pigtail your outlets. Don't through-wire them.
That should help you zero in on the problem It could be a bad outlet but it's probably a loose connection.


What size pipe to use when hooking up 2 dryers

Don't combine pipe, you may get back-flow if one dryer isn't in use.

Instead, run 2 separate lines.


Pressure drops are normal. That's just how it works.  Even with much larger pipe, there'll be pressure changes as the pump kicks in and out.

I would start with a pressure regulator.  Set the regulator for something like 35 PSI which the system can always provide.   It would work even better if both houses had a pressure regulator.   It goes without saying that this will reduce best-condition flow somewhat, in favor of more uniform flow all the time.

After you have a regulator (which implies a check valve), then a "pressure tank" will start to make sense.  This buffers further.   Although I have a concern with them in light of what we're learning about hot water heaters and legionella.  If it's not good for water to be stagnant in a hot water heater below 140F, one of those pressure tanks has the same basic problem.


Natural AC, Stream Powered heat exchange

I know that seems like a cheap easy hack.  However it's not going to work very well, and to get it to work at all you'll have to pour some fairly serious capital into it.

Given that, you would be better off using real heat pumping with freon.  But yes, use that creek water: it is an excellent heat-sink and will greatly increase the efficiency of the unit.  Heat pumps work best when they are pumping heat "downhill", i.e. the ultimate heat sink is colder than the space they are cooling.

There are several sources for water-sourced heat pump equipment, but the most obvious is a marine air conditioner/heat pump.  They use seawater as their ultimate heat sink.   Seawater is very corrosive; your creek water can't be nearly as bad.

Going with a proper heat pump instead of merely an air conditioner means you can set it for reverse mode, and get heat out of it also.  However that will stop working when ambient temp gets too cold.


How long should I wait before painting new lumber?

In my experience, treated 4x4s will check and twist like crazy over the span of a year as they slowly dry out. So, you're not likely going to get a pristine finish anyways. I'd build the fence, then paint later. If you have the money, I'd swap out the treated posts for cedar.


Convert switched out to always hot what to do with ground and neutral wires

First, turn off the breaker that controls the circuit you are working on. If there are any other circuits in the same box as the switch, turn off those breakers as well and verify that there is no electricity running through the box with a non-contact voltage tester and by flipping the switches (lights should remain off).

Hot/black wires: take the two hot wires connected to the terminals on the switch and cap them together.

Neutral/white/gray wire: if this is a smart switch (i.e. the switch itself consumes electricity) then either cap the neutral or if it is pigtailed from the other neutrals in the box, you can remove the pigtail and recap. If this is a "dumb" switch (99% of residential switches in the USA) it does not have a neutral and nothing needs to be done.

Ground/green/bare wire: you can leave the ground wire as-is (no need to cap it). Just tuck it behind the other wires. If the box is metallic and does not have a ground wire, you can (and should) ground the box. Metal boxes should have a screw hole in the back where you can attach a ground wire and secure it to the box. This ensures that if there is a wiring fault and a hot wire energizes the box, electricity will flow to ground and trip the breaker, alerting you to the problem rather than burning the house down or zapping you if you touch the box.


Is it safe to operate a kitchen stove without the original insulation installed?

No. Manufacturers don't spend money doing things like installing insulation if they're not important.

This is especially true where you have tenants who are less concerned with careful use of the appliances than you'd be, and where you are potentially liable for injury or death.

If by "my rental house" you actually meant "the house I rent", you'd need permission from the owner (but don't expect to get it, for the reasons I mentioned).


How can I install a light fixture in the ceiling of a finished room?

The easiest option would be to run a new cable directly from the switch, up to the ceiling fixture. You'll want to either install a larger box and a new switch, or a double switch, so the light can be controlled independently.

If you're working in a home constructed of solid wood framing, you should be able to run the new cable fairly easily. Since you didn't mention where the switch is, or which way the joist run, I'll cover a few scenarios.
Wall adjacent to joists
If the switch is in the middle(ish) of the wall, and the joists are adjacent to the wall. You might get lucky, and simply going up the wall will land you in the proper joist bay.

In this situation, you'll simply have to drill a hole through the top plate, then run your cable.

If you're not so lucky, and the switch box does not line up with the joist bay.

You'll have to bore some holes through the joists to reach the ceiling box.

In this case you'll want to consult local building codes, to figure out where and how to bore the holes.
Wall parallel to joists
If the wall runs parallel to the joists, there's no getting around it, you're going to have to bore through the joists.
In this case it doesn't matter if you're near the middle of the wall, or to one side or the other. The procedure will be the same.

Boring the holes
To get from the switch box to the ceiling box, you're going to have to drill through at least one structural member. However, if you have the proper tools, the damage can be minimized.  To do this with the least amount of damage possible, you're going to want a flexible drill bit, extensions, and an alignment tool.

Through the top plate
To drill through the top plate, you'll need to make a hole in the finished wall. Cut a hole in the wall above the switch box, near the ceiling. Cut the hole far enough from the ceiling, so you have room to position the flexible drill bit.
Use the alignment tool to position the bit, and drill up through the top plate. Depending on the construction style, this could be a double top plate.
Through the joists
To get through the joists, you can take advantage of the hole you've cut for the ceiling box. Again use the alignment tool to position the flexible drill bit, and start drilling in a straight(ish) line towards the wall with the switch box.  Add extensions as you go, to extend your reach.
Pulling the cable
Now that you have a clear path from the switch box to the ceiling fixture, you'll have to pull the cable through the wall/ceiling.  Depending on how things line up, you might have to cut a few hand holes in the finished wall/ceiling to help you maneuver the cable. A fish tape might come in handy.
Future proofing and other considerations
Ceiling fans are a common upgrade, so it might be worth a little added expense now. Installing a braced ceiling box, will allow you to install a ceiling fan in the future.

Ceiling fans often come with light kits, and it's common for folks to want to control the fan and light(s) independently. Instead of installing #/2 with ground cable, you might want to install #/3 with ground. This will allow you to install one switch for the fan, and one for the light kit.
Boring vs. Notching
While you may, or may not be able to notch the joists to run the cable. Boring holes can be done with less damage to the finished material, and won't make structural engineers cringe.

WARNINGS:
Consult your local government regarding any permits that might be required. And always follow all manufacturers installations instructions, and all local building codes.
If you're working in a home that does not have solid wood members, consult local building codes for appropriate course of action.
If you try to notch the joist, you could end up with your second floor on your first floor.


Can I install attic ladder perpendicular to joists?

Yes you can you will need to frame in the opening to the existing framework, I would suggest new work in this case to be larger or thicker as today’s wood is total crap compared to your construction. What I mean if you have 2x6 in that old wood I would go with 2x8 or 4x6 ,, sounds funny but count the rings on your boards and today’s boards will be 1/3 to 1/4 so a larger board is a good idea. but it can be done, I have added pull downs on a couple of Victorians but most had stairways although very narrow. If it is a registered home get approval first!!!!  You can loose your tax status in some locations if the structure is modified.


Sorry, the ONLY way to do this properly is to get the heater on a properly sized 240V circuit. This can be a 15A or 20A depending on what is shared on the circuit and what the distance is (less than a 150' or so circuit run this is not an issue).

If you don't want to do it right and find how the t-stat is wired you may be able to put an integral thermostat right on the unit and un-wire the wall t-stat. This depends on the age and brand of the heater if a t-stat is available for it. It's worth investigating thought. You may find the t-stat is wired right to the unit and has nothing to do with the receptacles.


Something that meets or slightly exceeds the 35 in-lb rating, and matches the 24V spec (though you could check if your system is using AC or DC, and just get one to match your system rather than an AC/DC version.)

I suppose the time should fall in the general range of this one's 80-110 seconds as well, so vents are not slamming open and closed, but I suspect that is somewhat less critical. The power draw should not be too much more than this one at 3VA or you may overload the system that's running it.


If the ballast is wired correctly make sure the connections to the bulbs aren't loose.  You could replace a pair of connectors as a test if your fixture allows.


How can I prevent mice from entering my house?

This is probably a futile exercise. Mice can squeeze through the smallest of gaps so you'd have to virtually hermetically seal your house to prevent any mouse coming in. Obviously you can block up the largest/most obvious holes and make it generally more difficult.

What you can do is make your house a less welcoming environment.

Make sure that you keep all food sealed in plastic containers etc. so that your house is not a source of food for them. They might still get in, but only for warmth.


Safe wrapping for fiberglass around pipes?

Yes, and much easier. Specially made foam insulation for pipes is readily available in many diameters and literally just snaps over the pipes via a slit in the tube.  Then there is plastic covering glue that you pull off once you have the insulation over the pipe.  Pull the plastic, squeeze it together and wa la you have an insulated pipe. I posted an image for 1/2" pipe, but it's available in many sizes.


How do I measure the discharge from a Sump Pump?

Time how long it takes to fill a 1 gallon bucket, then divide that time into a minute, that gives you GPM; Gallons Per Minute, a standardized flow rate. So for example if, while it is fully flowing, you put the bucket in the stream, someone else starts a stopwatch and you see that it takes 6 seconds to fill the bucket, 60 seconds / 6 seconds = 10 GPM.

Then if you want, get what's called an "elapsed time meter" that works on the same voltage as your pump, and wire it in parallel with the pump so that it records how long the pump runs. Multiply that run time (in minutes) during a time period by the flow rate to get a larger averaged flow over that time period, i.e. per hour or per day or per week to make it more useful for deciding what you want to do with it. So for example if, during a given week, the sump pump ran for 3.2 hours, that is 192 minutes, x 10GPM = 1920 gallons per week that you need to figure out how to safely dispose of.


Optimizing heating in a heat-pump + electric resistive system

No. You may risk damaging your unit by running it in cooling mode when it is too cold out (although some systems have safeties around this), but heating in low temperatures should not damage the system.
No. A correctly functioning heat pump should not ever drop below 100% efficiency.
This is dependent upon the specific heat pump model. Often, manufacturers provide charts/graphs describing the efficiency at different temperatures, but I do not see one available for yours. Two data points are specified; at 47f it is rated at a COP of 3.5 (or 350% electrical efficiency), and 17F a COP of 2.42.
No, but the heating capacity is often close, in mild weather. Yours is rated at 33,400 BTU/h at 47f and 21,400 BTU/h at 17f. Measuring this requires two temperature sensors (before and after the coil) and an accurate airflow measurement.
Your system defrosts on a timer, after 30/60/90 minutes of compressor run time, depending on a jumper setting. (this is less efficient than smarter systems that detect increased air pressure from from frost blocking air movement through the coils).
Protecting the unit from falling ice from eaves, and from accumulation of snow, is a good idea. However, make sure to leave ample space so that the airflow isn't restricted.
It says on the side that your blower draws up to 2.3 amps.


Sometimes when a flapper gets old and begins to fail (disintegrate) it can leave a piece behind stuck to the outflow pipe that it covers.  This piece/remnant then prevents the new flapper from getting a good seal.  You might want to clean out the tank and make sure there are no remnants of the old flapper stuck in there.


How can I route an unknown amount of wires through an outside wall?

You ask for a box, as long as 120V does not go thru, then you can use a low voltage cut-in ring.

These rings come in 1,2,3 and 4 gang or even round.  You can use a 1 gang weatherproof cover with either 1 1/2 hub or 3 hubs.  Or you can buy a blank plate and drill your own 7/8.

Weatherproof plate with 3 1/2 hubs

To make where your cable goes thru the cover you can use a strain relief connector.  You pick your connectors by the size of gland (grommet) you need to use and then there is a compression nut that tightens and the gland compresses to your cable.

You can probably get 2 holes drilled if you use a 1 gang blank plate or 4 holes if you use the 2 gang ring and plate.  You can always do one size and change the ring to a larger size if you want, but you can't go backwards.

You can buy all this at a DIY box store or at your local electrical distributor.


The #10, #12 type numbers refer to the diameter of the screw. Larger numbers are bigger/thicker screw. Screws are sized by this diameter designation and also a length.

You could take one or two out temporarily and carry them with you when you go to the store to buy the new screws. You can then easily compare to the new ones to find the correct size.


Will the drylok work?  Maybe with minimal water.  What you need to do though is get gutters on your house or regrade your landscape.  Or both.  If water is draining under your slab there is nothing you can do to keep it from coming up through the floors.


Lights won't go out with 4-way and 3-way switches in any position

Jumpered wires on 4-way to make 3-way circuit

Maybe thats where you went wrong?

There are four wires: two travellers in and two travellers out. If you connected them all together it would have the effect you describe.

The middle switch in one position connects straight across. In the other position it crosses (top left connected to bottom right and bottom left to top right).

If I've misunderstood - please clarify the question. There are several ways of wiring this and practices vary from country to country or from place to place.

See Wikipedia


An eyeball down the string will tell the story, but a proper dryline (not kite string or other weak line) sufficiently taut (as you describe) is not going to have more than 1/4" sag in 30 feet. I'd think that would be suitable for a planter, and you could anticipate the sag when you set your heights and adjust slightly.


Why does my garbage disposal blow "swamp gas" up the other sink?

Swamp gas is pretty close actually. Most disposers have quite the bacteria culture growing inside it's mechanism. What you are seeing and smelling is an aerosolized portion of this culture ejected from the disposer by the spinning action. It can't go down the drain because it is blocked by the water in the trap. It doesn't normally come up through the disposer inlet because the air is cool and humid and dense. The typical rubber baffle also restricts passage.

Once the disposal is running without water, it is acting like a rather inefficient pump, pushing the smelly air and moisture down it's outlet. The easiest path for gas to follow from there is out the other drain.

Often, occasionally grinding up citrus fruit is adequate to keep odors in check.The acidity does slow down the bacteria, but the citrus is mainly masking the odor. Pouring a box of baking soda into the disposal will absorb some odor, and the basic (opposite of acid) environment also slows down bacteria. In addition, the powder can be left to sit for a while before it is washed away.

The only sure way to eliminate the bacteria colony is to block the outlet by removing a section of pipe and obstructing the opening with a secure plug. Fill the disposal with a strong chlorine bleach solution and let it soak for a few hours. Place a bucket under the plugged drain before removing the plug to catch the solution.

Even if you completely eliminate the colony with bleach, introducing more kitchen waste will cause another colony to establish itself eventually. It does help to only run the disposer when water is running. It helps prevent the bacteria from being aerosolized. You should do this anyway, running the disposal without water can cause it to overheat. This additional heat also enhances the smell that is emitted.


Can I use a 5 mil blue tarp as a moisture barrier over a dirt floor in a crawl space instead of poly sheeting?

Most blue tarps are usually some kind of coated fiber construction and first, I would question how vapor impermeable it really is, and second I think it would not be nearly as resilient and repairable as poly.  Once the tarp material starts to break down and/or tear, it seems to be impossible to repair in my experience.  Admittedly, that has always been in situations with UV exposure, but I personally still would have trouble trusting it to last as long or be as effective as 12 to 20 mil poly (which is likely overkill... I think most people say 6mil is a practical minimum).


Return Air Temperature is the temperature of the air just before the evaporator/heat exchanger.
Supply Air Temperature is the temperature of the air just after the evaporator/heat exchanger.
Discharge Air Temperature is the temperature of the air exiting the registers (vents).

Discharge air temperature should be as close to supply air temperature, otherwise you're gaining/losing heat as the air travels through the ducts.


fire door between garage and residential living space!

While the non-rated glazing panel may or may not be OK here, I would shy away from it myself
While 2016 CalRC R302.5.1 (similar to 2015 IRC R302.5.1) does not require a fire-rated door for house-to-garage doors, it does require a solid wood or honeycomb-core steel door in such an application if a fire-rated door is not used and the house is not sprinklered:

R302.5.1 Opening protection
Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing and self-latching device.
Exception: Where the residence and the private garage are protected by an automatic residential fire sprinkler system in accordance with Sections R309.6 and R313, other door openings between the private garage and the residence need only be self-closing and self-latching. This exception shall not apply to rooms used for sleeping purposes.

Given the situation, (a door that's otherwise OK, with factory fitted glazing), I would consult with your local AHJ about it, as it's a pretty...borderline call. Were I the AHJ, though, I would not permit non-rated glazing in a house-to-garage separation due to the rapid failure of ordinary glazing materials when exposed to fire.  The good news, though, is that if you know what to look for, fire rated doors are available with matching vision panels in this day and age.  And you don't have to settle for wired glass, either: a decent glazier should be able to hook you up with a fire-rated specialty tempered or specialty fire-rated/security laminated vision light in your door instead.


Dishwasher Drain Into Sink instead of Under?

When the dishwasher goes to pump out then the pressure will move the hose possibly blowing it all over your kitchen.

Think of a hose left on full without anyone holding it.

You will need to clamp it down somehow and even then expect some splashing.

Good luck!


New Door Handle wants larger main hole than is on there already

Figured it out using the Related postings prior, and removed the anti-pry plate by prying it off.  Oh, the irony.  Thx, SE et al.  Those lever type door handles are the bomb.


DeWalt nail gun leaks air when trigger is pulled

I had this issue on a Makita siding nailer. 1 week old, was working perfectly the day before. Checked that the piston wasn’t stuck, opened it to see if residue was affecting the o-ring; everything was fine. In frustration, I held the trigger down while pressing the nozzle against the material. After about 5 seconds the gun finally engaged. Working perfectly again.


How can I make trapezoid-shaped wood board (beveled edges)?

Sorry. My first answer mis-understoood the question. Based on the updated question, there are many ways to create a shape of the desired profile, based on what tools you have or can find/buy/etc.

Rip the edges with an angled tablesaw blade.
A handheld power (circular) saw, with the blade at an angle. A fence will help you get a straight edge.
A jointer.
A handheld power jointer.
A hand plane. A good craftsman with a sharp jointer plane can do this easily.
A router table.
A handheld router.
A millwork shop can easily turn this profile out, so you can always buy it ready made, for a price.
If you have a friend with any of the above power tools, I'll bet they can be bought off for the price of a pizza.

Very much depends on what tools you have, how much money you want to spend. You can use it to justify buying a specific tool, if you have a use for one of the tools I've mentioned. They are all useful.

A tablesaw or a router are both terribly useful tools, but if this is a one time job and you have no interest in woodworking, then I'd look for a friend who can help you out. If you insist on doing it yourself, and might have an occasional use for a hand held circular saw, then go that route. A circular saw will be often enough of use even to someone who is not an avid woodworker.

Attach your board to a straight piece of wood to use as a fence. Then angle the blade, and rip the edge as you want it. I'll argue this is the cheapest solution that will give you a good edge. (A hand held jointer plane might be even cheaper, since you can get them quite inexpensively from an antique shop. But a jointer plane will take some practice to do this job well.)


Your window type is "double hung" the corkscrew type rod is part of the mechanism called the ballast.
This link will show info on replacement part info.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bwtn4o80S-w


What is the simplest way to create custom decorative LED-lighting?

I'm not sure how you define elegant so I'll leave that parameter out.

You can buy LED power supply on ebay, the LED-strip or other LED-array on ebay and connect them. There is somewhat of a standard that doesn't require soldering for LED-strips.


Should storm windows be removed if AC will be on and windows rarely opened?

It's an intriguing question. On one hand, trapped air is heated through radiation. On the other, it acts as an insulator. Keep in mind that we aren't talking about airflow, but heat flow (by conduction, convection, and radiation).

The answer probably depends on how many of your windows are exposed to the sun, where extreme temperatures are generated between panes. In those cases, the insulation benefit of the second pane is probably outweighed by the efficiency lost due to greenhouse effect.

For those windows which are usually shaded, the second pane creates a trapped-air buffer, which dramatically reduces conduction loss.

I don't think a conclusion can be drawn with the information given. You might update your question to describe the building and property features in more detail. (Don't put it in a comment.)


Wiring a fluorescent T8 fixture to a standard plug

The extra holes in the connector are for wire chaining the fixture to the next fixture.  One pair goes to power, the other pair to the next fixture.

You can cut off the connector and strip the two wires (black and white) and connect them directly to the cord with wire twist connectors.  These are color coded for the total size of wires in them.  Yours plus a cord is likely to be the smallest (blue).

Black goes to black and white to white.
Be sure to use a three prong cord with a ground wire, like this:

Secure the green wire to the fixture's metal with a screw (maybe one already in place), or cut the end of the wire, strip it, and use a twist connector to tie it to a ground wire in the fixture.
The clamp is a great idea if the edge of the hole in the fixture is sharp.


My electric oven runs 200C too hot. What can I do?

I'd suggest searching the web for Amica maintenance instructions for your model. If there are recalibrations available at all, that's where you'll find the instructions.

Normally, a service tech would just swap out the electronics and/or sensor, since if it's drifted this far there's no guarantee that it won't do other Bad Things some time soon.


Can I manually switch off booster fans that are coupled with HVAC blower?

You'll need to add an extra fan relay to your system to accomplish this

Your existing setup controls the booster fans via the EAC terminals on the furnace control board, which appear to be energized whenever the furnace blower is running.  In order to change this, you'll need to stick a fan relay in line with the control wiring to the fans, so that the fan only comes on during the correct conditions (cooling, in your case).  For this, you'll need:

A SPST-NO HVAC relay (these have 24VAC coils, quick-connect terminals, and flange mounting means)
Two short lengths of 18/2 thermostat cable (enough to get from the control board to the relay, and another shorter length to serve as a pigtail)
A length of 14AWG stranded THHN wire (about the same length as the thermostat wire, can be any color save for white, grey, or green)
Four female quick-connect terminals (two red ones for 18AWG wire, two blue ones for the 14AWG wire), as well as two wirenuts suitable for 4x18AWG wires
A couple of self-drilling sheet metal screws, suitable for attaching the flanges on the relay to the inside of the furnace wiring compartment
And a screwdriver + wire-cutter/stripper (of course) and a ratchet-type crimper with an insulated terminal die (these are the way to go for crimping things, the cheap crimp pliers are not a good way to get uniformly reliable crimps)

The installation goes as follows (if you aren't comfortable with this, any HVAC tech or electrician should be able to do this on your behalf):

Turn power to the furnace off (the service switch will suffice), and open up the wiring compartment of the furnace
Find an empty spot near the control board to mount the control relay at, and use the mounting screws to attach it to the inside of the wiring compartment there
Crimp the red quick-connects onto the wires on one end after stripping the wires on both ends of the longer length of thermostat cable
Strip both ends of both wires on the shorter length of thermostat cable
Crimp the blue quick-connects onto the ends of the 14AWG wire after stripping them as well
Remove the black wire with the quick-connect terminal on it from the EAC-H terminal on the control board, and move it to one of the contact terminals on the new relay
Use the 14AWG jumper you made in step 5 to connect the other contact terminal on the relay to the EAC-H terminal on the control board
Remove both wires from the Y terminal on the control board, and connect one wire in the short length of thermostat cable to the Y terminal.  Take the matching wire in other end of the short length of thermostat cable, and nut it to the existing Y wires as well as to one wire in the long length of thermostat cable
Repeat the process of step 8 with the wires connected to the C terminal on the control board and the free wires in the two lengths of thermostat cable you added. If there's only one wire connected to C, that's no big deal -- this will set you up properly later if you need to run a C wire to a thermostat down the road.
Connect the quick-connects on the other end of the thermostat cable to the coil terminals on the new relay
Button the wiring compartment back up and turn the service-switch back on

Now, the booster fans should only work if the thermostat is calling for air conditioning.  If you want them to run during a call for fan, you'll need to rewire things so that the fan relay's coil is wired between G and C on the control board, instead of between Y and C as it is at the moment.


When I plug in a dimmable lamp on the other side of the house, a GFCI outlet in my kitchen starts humming. What gives?

Since the GFI's test button does not make it trip, the GFI should be replaced pronto.  Until that can be done, unplug everything from it and from downstream outlets.

The test button is not an accessory feature.  It uses simple electronics to produce a slightly unbalanced current so as to directly test the protection logic.  If that doesn't work, the protective circuitry has failed.  That, plus any buzzing (especially under bizarre circumstances) is a screaming cry to fix it.


Household receptacle - For a 2-wire, can I tap the adjacent bond for grounding?

They changed the rules in 2014 to greatly liberalize the rules for Retrofitting Grounds.

They did NOT include using water and gas pipes as a substitute for electrical wires.

However, they did allow pulling ground off the Grounding Electrode System, which does include bonds to a water pipe.  So you can bond to the wire, not the pipe.  A split-bolt connector is an easy way to tap a fat bare ground wire.


Seperating bathroom light and exhaust fan on single switch

It is possible that the two black wires (other than that going to the switch) are going separately to the fan and light. If so, the change is easy.

To test this do the following:

turn off the breaker
separate the three black wires nutted together
wirenut the black to the switch with one of the others and insulate the other in a separate wirenut
turn the breaker back on test the switch. Hopefully, the switch will operate only one of the fan or light.
turn the breaker back off
switch the black wires so the other one is connected to the wire to the switch
turn the breaker back on and test the switch. Hopefully, it will only control the other of the light or fan
Turn the breaker back off and optionally restore the original wiring

If the test results followed what I marked "hopefully", you are in business. Remove the other wire to the switch and wirenut it to two wires to run to one side of the dual switch (if one side of the switch has a removable bridge, just connect the single wire to that side). Connect the two blacks originally wirenutted together to the other side of the switches (if that side has a removable bridge, remove it).

For the pigtail wires, you should use the same guage wire as the rest. Examine the wires for printing on the insulation (look for an AWG number).

I'd also recommend against using the back push-in connectors. It's better to use the screw terminals.


What is the concept behind drywall studs?

There is a ton of information and history out there.

Studs are strong pieces that are the internal structure of your walls.  They are covered by some type of material (the "skin") that is what you see when you look at a wall.  If you imagine your wall without any type of skin material, there are probably two studs at the left and right edges and definitely two framing members  (similar material as studs, but the term studs explicitly refers to the vertical members) going horizontally at the floor and ceiling forming a rectangle.  This rectangle has many vertical studs inside of it, usually space at 16" or 24".

A term you'll see sometimes is 16" O.C. which means On Center; it just means the center-line between two studs is 16" apart and there is about 15.25" of air in between them.

Your studs are covered on both sides by something.  These days it is typically drywall (sheetrock) which is cheaper and easier to install than most alternatives.  Your surface could also be plaster, paneling, tile, etc.

You need to use a stud finder to locate where your studs are because you need to attach heavy objects to studs.  Drywall can only support very little weight.  To use a stud finder:

Put masking tape horizontally on your wall.
Place the stud finder against the wall, holding it vertical.
Press and hold the button.

Hold it still for the first half second so it can calibrate itself.

Move the stud finder horizontally across the wall and mark on the tape where the signal is strong.

If the signal acts weird, make sure you slide the stud finder sideways at the same height.

Take a tape measure and try to find a pattern between your marks that is 16" or 24" apart.
Now you can measure multiples of 16" or 24" and know where other studs are.

You need to determine if your stud are wood or steel because the type of fasteners (screws) you use depend on it.

There are other methods of determining this, but here's one:  Figure out where your fasteners are going to go and drill a small pilot hole (smaller than the size of the fastener).  If you get about a 1/2" deep and hear a terrible screeching noise followed by your drill bit sliding and having no resistance, you have steel studs.  If you get 1" in and you start to see saw dust coming out of your pilot hole and your drill still feels like it's biting at something, you have wood studs.

If you have wood studs, you can use general construction screws (NOT drywall screws).  If they are steel, you probably have to use toggle bolts.  Toggle bolts are a pain to use, so you can try using self-tapping machine screws with a fine thread first.  Make sure your fasteners are long enough.

There are many other types of walls out there so if things don't seem right, maybe they're not typical stud walls.


What other materials besides grout and caulk may have been used in my shower?

My guess is that you have some sanded, color-matched caulk there. It may be latex or urethane-based.


Why is one baseboard heating hotter, and not controlled by thermostat

Being a 3 unit house you would have to verify the hydronic piping and which zones are which, going to which baseboards, controlled by which thermostats.  And then verify how the piping is zoned off, that all zone valves and check valves are functioning.  From the sound of it it could be ghost flow.

you would get a good answer asking this on The Wall at heatinghelp.com. They will know all the correct terminology and tell u what specifically to look for.


How can I mount an electrical box to exterior foam board?

That is called fan-fold insulation. Typical for under vinyl siding in older homes.

Very surprising that there is no sheathing, but not unheard of. What I would do is get a round cut-in style fixture box and mount it directly to the vinyl block. This seems like your only option, apart from removing some siding and replacing the vinyl block with a fixture box style piece from Arlington Industries.

or

http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/siding-mounting-blocks/siding-mounting-block/


Exterior to Interior Wiring and Code Deficiencies?

I'd scrap this whole plan and start over (save for the existing buried conduit)

You started off on the right foot by burying a conduit from the house to the shed, and you are also correct that NM is nogoodnik in a wet environment, so we'll be replacing that as you indicate.  However, you were only familiar with the cables (NM and UF) used for building wiring, so you figured that was what was used inside conduits as well, and then discovered to your dismay why that isn't so: they are stiff, chunky, and generally utterly miserable to pull down conduit.

As it turns out, what you need to be pulling down these conduits are individual THHN/THWN wires, not the cables you're used to.  These take up far less fill than a fat, stiff, miserable cable, and are also far easier to pull down conduit, with their slick nylon outer coating and stranded cores giving them superior flexibility and slipperiness.

Going cable-free across your attic

One other faulty assumption you made was that you must transition from conduit to cables when you head inside.  In fact, that's not the case; there's even a handy form of conduit that is basically purpose-made for light-duty indoor work.  The Code calls it Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing, or ENT for short; however, it's much more commonly known as "smurf tube" for its bright blue color.  It is made from thin PVC plastic, corrugated for strength and flexibility, and is legal for mains wiring within houses, although it's most commonly used for communications/low-voltage work.

With this, we can make the run (save for the dryer) entirely in conduit, allowing us to take a junction box entirely out of the picture, and giving us much more flexibility in locating the remaining box for where the dryer circuit exits the conduit.

As far what goes inside said conduit...

Your other issue with your plan for powering up the shed is the idea of running two separate branch circuits there, instead of simply fitting a subpanel at the shed and running a feeder to it.  Given that your 1.25" Schedule 40 PVC can handle 374mm2 of wire fill, we can fit 3 1/0 Al XHHW-2 or THHN/THWN wires alongside an 8AWG bare copper ground down it with room to spare for 3 10AWG THHNs and a 10AWG bare copper ground for the dryer.  However, that's overkill for the initial portion of the homerun, and 1.25" ENT is rather scarce on the ground for that matter.

This means we're better off running 3 2AWG Al XHHW-2 wires alongside that bare 8 AWG copper ground, giving us the ability to provide 90A (or 100A with some pigtailing trickery at each end) to the shed, while still being able to use 1" ENT for the run across the attic.  The 4 10AWG THHNs for the dryer run out from the panel wil easily fit into the 1.25" PVC alongside the proposed feeder, and you can simply use a T-body, a reducer, and some 1/2" ENT for the rest of the dryer run.  (If you wish to transition the dryer circuit to NM at a box in-line with the 1" ENT run, you could do that as well; I simply suggested using the ENT for the dryer run because it means you don't have splices or boxes to worry about.)

Once you get to the shed...

Once our wire run reaches the shed, we then land it on the line lugs of a 100A, 24-space, main breaker subpanel.  This provides us with a convenient main disconnect for the shed, and also plenty of space for future expansion.  In the subpanel, then, we can fit the breakers for the sauna heater and lights/outlets there as well.  Note that you'll have to pull the bonding screw/strap (or make sure it's not fitted) and fit separate ground bars if the panel does not come with ground bars factory fitted.  You'll also need to torque all the breaker and panel lugs/screws to spec using an inch-pound torque screwdriver or torque wrench, by the way; this is the new 110.14(D) requirement in the 2017 NEC, and is also a good idea anyway, lest your panel get a case of the loose lugnuts.

As to replacing that NM...

What I would do to replace the NM is fit a junction box at where the conduit terminates, then run individual 14AWG THHN hots and neutrals + a 14AWG bare ground down the existing conduit, and then continue the runs from the inside junction box with NM.  Note that you may have to replace some of the NM inside due to water wicking up the paper separator in the cable.


What is an efficient way of moving home?

The #1 asset of any frequent mover is a private mail box or PMB such as the UPS Store.  It means you always get your mail.  I know many people who don't use PMBs and have nasty tax bills, credit burns and even arrest warrants (on failure to appear)  because a trivial problem festered into a bad one.  The DMV, the IRS, banks, creditors, all exclusively use postal mail for anything timely or urgent.

It is simply impossible to contact everyone every time you move - seriously, who remembers the IRS or the SSA?

PMBs are pricey but they work. Everyone accepts PMBs.  The PMB can receive UPS or FedEx and even sign for you.  You can reach a human, give credit card # and they'll forward your mail anywhere in the world. Sometimes I just have them mail mine if I don't have time to go over there. They'll call you if you get a certified letter.

Even at-the-house utilities like the gas company, always tell them to send your mail to the PMB, which they will cheerfully do. That means you get your last statement.

Life just works so much better with a PMB.

Granted, I just spent a lot of time on your second question.

On your first question, it's real simple: hoard quality knockdown boxes, like Bankers Boxes or better.  Those are for your stuff.  If it's easy and you have the space, sure, why not save original boxes.  I don't work that hard at it, unless the appliance is delicate and likely to take damage in shipping (NOT a microwave).

That said, the custom shipping foam blocks are the only thing that makes the box worth saving. I often see people with a coffeemaker set in the bottom of its original box, with the foams missing or thrown away. That defeats the purpose of saving the box; the coffeemaker won't be protected from damage anymore than in any other box.  So why keep a weird box around?

Moving is just a lot of packing and 1000 trips to the car.  That's just what it is.  If you are sick of it, hire out the "1000 trips to the car" job to some "two guys and a truck" type operation, that's not so expensive, you don't have to go full Mayflower.


What is pile foundation? Where we need of this type of foundation?

Welcome to Stack Exchange. We could spend an hour writing a lengthy description of Piling Foundations or you could just do some research online.  The answers are there for you, you just have to look.

Wikipedia

Pile Foundations

Search engine results

This site is for answers to specific questions and your question is really just asking for a broad overview of pile foundations. If after you have done your research and you need something clarified then you can post a SPECIFIC and DETAILED question.


Using hanging pendant with heavy glass bottle?

I agree with your concern.  This is a lightly built pendant, and you're talking about adding a significant amount of weight to it. The pendant's electrical cord (presuming it passed UL testing)* is only made to carry what's part of it now.

The normal way to support a heavy luminaire is to use a chain (as part of the design aesthetic) or thin steel cable (if aiming to conceal) to carry the physical weight.  The electrical cord is not load-bearing at all, and simply runs through the chain/alongside the cable.  It may be possible to buy lamp cordage with the steel cable integrated.  A steel cable can serve as a grounding wire; a chain cannot.  Neutral must be an actual wire.

A third way is to use steel tubing and run the cable down the tubing.  The tubing size is limited by the minimum size for luminaire wire: 18AWG.

It may also be possible to devise a harness which supports the wine bottle only, e.g. by supporting a ring on the inside of the wine bottle -- and then, thread the luminaire through all that, so the luminaire does not bear any weight.

You can hang up to 4 pounds of weight from any junction box without having to do anything special, and I don't see this exceeding that weight.

As far as undesired lumpy switches on cords, that's irrelevant since you'll have to snip off the plug anyway. A wine bottle neck is too narrow to pass even a NEMA 1 connector through. Installing a replacement plug is Code legal, or you can hardwire straight up into a junction box.

Now there's yet another option to make this work: low voltage lighting. Low voltage devices less than 55 watts are subject to a more relaxed set of rules. This practically requires LED, but LED is very good now.

* Amazon is an "open access platform".  Amazon allows third party sellers to sell via their website and use their warehouses, which has become a superhighway for cheap Cheese junk that can't pass our safety laws (e.g. UL listing).  Brick-and-mortar retail stores like Target or Lowes generally stock legal products.  So does Amazon proper, which you can identify by This item is Sold by and ships from amazon.com in the listing.  This product is fine.

UL is one of several Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories. Also acceptable: CSA, TUV, ETL and a few others. CE is not one.


Can I remove 2 GFCI breakers and install a tandem if the box accepts a tandem?

I don't see any GFCI's. Your cheapest route is to replace the blue handled 15A shed breaker with a BR1515 and add the wires from the unmamrked 15A circuit on the left to the additional termination you just added to the shed space. That's a lot cheaper than buying any quadplex.


You didn't mention your location, which would be very helpful, as things like frost heave and drainage matter where foundations are concerned.

But, in general, floors are likely to be uneven because of the foundation. Here's where it gets hard, though: the foundation could have gently settled over the last almost-century and be totally fine, or it could be in varying states of disrepair that need fixing. Homes of that vintage may or may not have adequately constructed foundations. (A typical modern foundation includes a wide footer below the frost line; the foundation wall sits on top of this. Old places sometimes omit the footer.)

If it was, for instance, a corner that went bad, fixing isn't terribly hard. You jack up the house, dig down a bit, install solid support, then fix all the cracks and doors/windows you've upset by the jacking.

Alternately, it could be that the entire foundation is bad, which would require jacking the entire house, heavy excavation, new foundation, dropping the house back down, then fixing all the interior work.

Local settling could also be caused by framing rot, though that's usually caught in a home inspection.

I hope you've gotten the impression that there's a broad range of $$$ possibilities here. Get a licensed general contractor that does a lot of foundation work to consult on the job. Not to be biased against young'uns, but if you find somebody that's been in business for many years, they're more likely to have seen similar homes in your neighborhood. (Expect to pay a modest fee for their time. This isn't one of those 'free estimates' kind of tasks.)

If time is of the essence and you have to get an offer in, have your lawyer write massive contingencies into the contract that will allow you to explore the problem and walk away if needed.


That is the accepted practice for dead ending a wire. The wire nut and tape. Sounds like you insulated it well enough if everything is working without sparks or tripped breakers now. Just keep your eye on it for a while.


Why do some light fixtures use multiple bulbs?

We use artificial light to light up things.  The brightness of a thing depends on how many photons are falling on it.  Doubling the number of bulbs actually does double the number of photons.  That makes the thing visibly brighter.

One basic method of dimming a room is to have 2 switches, each of which controls some lights.

More bulbs will not throw the light any farther.  What will happen, however, is that faraway things will get more light with more bulbs.  For instance with a single bulb, it might get 5 lux... with 4 bulbs it will get 20 lux and thus be more visible.


Is re-sanding needed after primer is applied to wood cabinets?

should I RE-SAND all the cabinet doors again before I apply the final
coat?

I would. As cabinet doors they will be quite visible and I'm sure you want the best finish possible.  A light sanding after the primer ensures that the primer is smooth which will help you get a good finish coat.

Also...is there any tricks to making sure I get all the dust off
before I apply the final coat?

"tack cloth"


Why do our windows collect condensation?

In a nutshell, the cause is excess humidity indoors when it is cold outside. Your windows are not defective, but they are not the kind of super-high-performance windows that would be warm enough not to attract condensation. You should investigate sources of moisture indoors. Usually houses are dry in the winter, not wet, so this is a bit unusual. Do you use a humidifier? If so, turn it down.


Paneling (at least what is usually meant in the current era by paneling) will give it that retro 1970's basement conversion feel. So I would advise avoiding that like the plague.

But it skates rather close to being an off-topic decorating question.

You might just leave it where it's at - someone who wants a workshop down there would want a different wall than someone thinking home theater.


What is the advantage to hiring someone with a license?

It varies from place to place, but in general, there's a few things you can expect from licensed tradespeople.

they've shown a commitment to their business, so have a higher probability of being competent.
they probably have liability insurance (for if they burn your house down) and worker's comp (for if they injure themselves). As a homeowner, you're encouraged to check for proof of both of these things, btw. If an uninsured trade has an accident, it might roll downhill to you or your insurance.
there's a greater likelihood that they'll be around in the future if a warranty concern comes up.
depending on jurisdiction, a licensed trade will be able to give you an enforceable contract.
a licensed trade will be able to pull building permits to ensure that work is done to code.


That is a molex connector, often used in low voltage DC applications. I've seen them in auto/marine lighting applications but never in residential (but that doesn't necessarily mean it's wrong).

Though I question their use in high voltage receptacles the parts are tooling for them are readily available at any electronics retailer.


Can a foundation be reused after fire damage?

The answer cannot be determined from a photo.  Please consult a structural engineer who can inspect the foundation and determine if it's still suitable for building.
Yes, this will cost something but it's going to be far less expensive than building on a unsuitable foundation.  It's also likely that the AHJ is going to require that anyway before issuing a building permit.


It really doesn't matter from a technical standpoint which choice you make, assuming all installations are done properly. Do whatever is easiest for your situation. "Proper installation" is key though, only use proper drainage ells to make turns, not vent ells, and do not add additional bends to get around obstacles that can be relocated. Also note that ground rods can be bent out of the way (or driven deeper as longneck suggests) without diminishing their effectiveness, just be careful to not damage the wire connection.


What type of sealer/stain to use on untreated cedar 4x4 lumber glued together

I'd go to the manufacturer of the wood glue you want to use before you get too far along.  Titebond is popular and I've had great luck with it, in their FAQ they have specific instructions for gluing up cedar, before you finish it, due to the oil in cedar.

I think most of them are pretty oil resistant once they cure, especially polyurethane, which is pretty much impervious to everything, which is why it's awful to get on your hands.  Cleans off like a tattoo.  But polyurethane is a mess to work with, and where it gets on the work surface, you're going to have to sand it off, and it may soak in a ways.  No stain or sealer will get past the polyurethane.

Tung oil is very good stuff. I worked for a contractor years ago that did a lot of cedar decks.  He liked a mix of turpentine and boiled linseed oil, which was considered old school even back then.  Tung oil seems to harden a lot better than linseed oil.  I'd prefer it over polyurethane for a work bench.  I wouldn't stain a work bench.


How can I turn off the power to an outlet if a water alarm is triggered?

I just recently paired a leak detector with a power relay for an upstairs laundry.

The leak detector has an output contact that is sensed by the power relay.

Floodstop detector, leak sensor and single valve for dishwasher

Furman power relay

I bought an extra sensor (they connect easily in parallel), so that I had one in the pan and one just outside at the base of the wall.

No extra wiring is necessary, except for converting your DW to a plug and outlet, all other wiring is supplied

You don't have to connect the valve if you don't want to, but its extra insurance if a hose leaks.


What kind of material can I use to cover a window to keep the cold out?

I'd first check for leaks.  Even a tiny crack can let a lot of cold air in over time.  Caulking would be the proper solution, but since you're renting, foam weatherstripping tape may be a quicker/cheaper solution.

Next, if the window is single-paned or otherwise just poor quality, the cold could be coming straight through the glass.  (This is probably more likely.)  If you don't need the window at all and don't mind blocking its lighting/venting, you can get insulation sheathing for around $10 and cut it to size.

If you do need the light from the window, there are various window insulation kits available on the market for $5-10.  Essentially it's shrink wrap taped around the window.  Then use a blow dryer to even out any wrinkles.


A 125A "main breaker" in the subpanel is fine.
However, the breaker feeding this, which is in the main panel, must be 80A or 90A depending on the insulation of your wire.
Actually, I'd recommend a "larger" subpanel than 125A.   The thing you really want is spaces, because a 90A subpanel can support a whole lot more circuits than you think it can.   A whole lot more!   A 30-space sub would not be excessive, and ones with that many spaces will tend to be 200A.
The old "16 spaces 32 circuits" trick doesn't work anymore, since almost all circuits these days require AFCI or GFCI breakers. NEC 2020 now requires it for 240V loads.
If you thought "125A breaker in the main panel is OK", then the source of your information is extremely poor - that's a hard mistake to make since every internet source will tell you otherwise.  Revisit every one of your decisions which came from that data source.
Other than that, everything sounds OK, but 125A on #2Al is such a blunder that you should really go through the rest with a fine-tooth comb.  Feel free to make full use of us!


Finding and installing a carbon monoxide/natural gas detector

Here's at least one for you:
http://firstalert.com/component/flexicontent/82-explosive-gas-co/929-plug-in-combination-explosive-gas-carbon-monoxide-alarm

I don't know why combination alarms are not more common. Maybe because natural gas has an odor added so it's readily apparent, unlike CO? There also aren't any dual smoke detector (ionizing and photoelectric) and CO combo alarms.

Note that CO alarms are usually mounted on the walls, not the ceiling, since CO is heavier than air and tends to sink a little [not true, as @Ecnerwal points out below]. I don't know if it's a big deal to mount it on the ceiling or not. I also don't know anything about optimal placement of methane detectors.


Fireplace, identification and removal component

I'm guessing it's 100% decorative. And that looks to be a new-ish insert (or recently repainted and rebricked).

You'll have to get into the fireplace and see with a scope or mirrors where they go, but I'm guessing it's just drilled into the facade brick and screwed in under those flower heads.

It does look pretty cool though. My wife would kill me however if I put it in.


Can I use a floor patch over this small area of slightly damaged subfloor?

I think you will be ok patching if it is still solid underfoot, as you say it is.
I would use a hard-setting plaster patch (sometimes called by trade names like Fixall, Fix-It All or Water Putty) after removing all crumbly unsound material. It can be difficult to get setting plaster smooth and level, so what I would do is use it as a base for regular floor-leveler, which can be troweled perfectly level and smooth for blend with surrounding floor. Then install your LVT on top.


Is it OK to hang drywall in a free-standing workshop WITHOUT taping or mudding?

Insulation does not require anything over the top of it to be effective. I'm not sure where you read that, but I don't believe it's true. Obviously you need to stop air movement, but the paper does that.

The usual reason to cover it is for fire protection. If your local code doesn't require that you cover the kraft paper, you don't need to. However, unprotected insulation tends to get damaged very easily in a workshop environment. You will have shredded paper and tufts of fiberglass blowing around. I would consider covering it with OSB, which also serves as a very nice backer for mounting equipment and whatever.


Can a 120v pool timer be used on a two-wire 240v circuit?

This timer can be hooked up to your 220V, 20 AMP, 2 wire plus ground circuit from the panel. Since you don't have a neutral you won't be able to ever run any 120V equipment unless you change your wiring. This timer have the ability to switch both hots on a single 220V load but not on three separate equipment items. You'll only be able to switch one hot on each piece of equipment. The other hot will always be connected to a load wire.

With your 220V circuit, the two hot legs from the panel will be your line 1 and line 2.  Your wires from your three pieces of equipment will be your load 1 and load 2  for each piece.


What side mounting screws for old electrical box

Most likely 8-32, possibly 6-32.   Watch out, 8-32 is fine thread.

The -32 is intentional as it assures enough thread engagement.

Make sure you are hanging your fan by more than just a couple #8 screws!


One option would be to install quarter round next to the baseboards. If the edge has barely started curling up, this would hold it down.

Otherwise, yes you will have to peel the vinyl back to apply adhesive to it. One method to make the floor a bit more pliable is to use a hairdryer to heat it up. Just make sure you don't overheat it too much.

Before applying the new adhesive, you may have to scrape off some of the old adhesive, and clean off any resulting debris.

Here's a good article with more details: Link


Can I install lights on a 20 amp circuit that has receptacles already wired?

According to 2011 National Electrical Code, there is no problem mixing lighting and receptacles on a 15 or 20 ampere circuit.

2011 National Electrical Code
Article 210 Branch Circuits
210.23 Permissible Loads.
(A) 15- and 20-Ampere Branch Circuits. A 15- or 20-ampere branch circuit shall be permitted to supply lighting units or other
utilization equipment, or a combination of both, and shall comply with
210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).

For some reasons why folks tend to avoid this in practice, take a look at my answer to this other question.


The easiest way is water (distilled) and microfiber cloth.  There are tons of screen cleaners on the market that you can order though that are a little easiest to work with than water.


Using tarpaulin to stop soil absorbing to rain, trying to prevent foundation damage

The slope has to go the other direction

The slope must be away from your house for some reasonable distance.  Otherwise tarpaulins will do nothing at all.

If the slope is away from the house, then yes, the tarps will help a lot.

Water flows downhill. If you think otherwise, that might explain why they are calling you a nutter ;) Every building code requires you take that into account when grading around your home, and you are required to grade so water naturally wants to back away from your house as it seeks the lowest level.

So have at least the first six feet slope away from your house.  If this creates a "low spot" or impoundment where water would pool, then you need to re-grade to give water an ultimate outlet.

This outlet can be underground; if you have somewhere on your property low enough, you can install a French or Buckeye drain to carry water from the would-be 'pound to the low outlet.  Don't spare the geotextile; you want to keep silt out of it.


Can i use air filter that is one inch smaller

Filters only work if the air has to go through them. The filter has air resistance and a gap doesn't, so if you leave a 1" gap, a disproportionate amount of air will flow through the hole, effectively making the situation even worse.

If it is a choice of a smaller filter or nothing, at least do something like glue or tape a cardboard filler piece to the filter to make up the right size. The smaller filter area will behave like a filter that is already partially dirty, but you could use it temporarily.


Should I use thread-seal tape for steam pipe?

My favorite pipe thread sealer is RectorSeal #5. Here's a link. I see according to its datasheet that its rated for steam pipes. You might have to let it dry a little while before pressuring, but after that its good for 2600 psi.


Is a stack of steel plate as strong as a single plate of the sum thickness?

Not unless you can bond them together into a single piece so they won't flex independently.  Otherwise it will act like a leaf spring.  But bonding them together defeats the goal of trying to reduce the weight of a 1/2" piece because they would just become one 1/2" piece.


How can I tile over a floor where hardwood is attached directly to joists?

Not doable at all.

Old houses have 3/4'' thick wood planks as subfloor, not 8x4 sheets of plywood like today's houses, so I would say that it's ok to consider your hardwood floor the subfloor. That's if you're putting another wood floor on top.

However, for the purpose of tiling you need an additional layer of plywood to reduce deflection that will cause the grout to crack eventually. And on top of that you would install your cement board. The cement board itself provides no structural support and is only used as a decoupling between a wood subfloor and the tiles, so the lateral movement of the wood is not going to cause the tiles to pull up. You can always use a durock membrane to reduce thickness, but you still need a floor that will not deflect.

If you really want to do this right you would take out the old floor down to the joist and install some OSB and then do what you want...


Plumbing fixture for draining spa shower lines when off?

Unless your talking a country mile of "standing" water in those pipes you can install ball valves above the faucet.


What could that red splatter have been under my toilet seat?

One possibility is an iron bacteria stain. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_bacteria


That appears to be a central vacuum system. The LV wire is to turn the vacuum on via a relay. Hard to tell from the picture if the end of the wire has simply been tucked into the pipe awaiting the final cover-plate install that it will be pulled out and wired to (correct) or if some genius ran the wire inside the vacuum tubing (incorrect.) I would bet on the correct case, though.

The 14 gauge wire would provide AC power for a beater-brush or similar accessory on the vacuum-hose.


What's the best material to patch gaps between moulding and the wall?

This is a simple job for caulk.  Just get a tube, run a bead, and smooth with your finger.  Allow to dry, and paint it the same color as the baseboard.  If the space is wide enough, first try to close the gap by nailing the moulding into the closest stud.  If the caulk shrinks too much, after it dries you can run another bead on top.

Note that spackle would crack when the baseboard moves.


Can I paint the exterior of a meter socket?

If you are asking about electrical code, no.  In most places, you own (and are responsible for) the meter box.  As long as the electric company is able to read the meter, there's no problem with painting it.  How to paint it is another question.


Is it ok for my doors rough opening to not be square if I'm installing a prehung door?

It's quite common for a rough in to be slightly off square.  As long as you shim it properly and anchor it securely, there won't be a problem.


Leaving the extra wire from a 12-3 run un-connected

There's nothing in the code that says you can't pull unused wire.  In fact, since it's not technically connected to the electrical system, NEC probably doesn't apply at all.

Just keep in mind that garage receptacles will require GFCI protection, while a receptacle in a pantry would not.


What is the sheet metal behind the drywall in my condo ceiling?

The drywall does appear to be screwed to the raised channels such as can be seen at the bottom of the hole.

Jim is correct that this is a structure for supporting a concrete floor, which reduces vibration and noise in apartments. You're going to need to figure out how to run wiring to your fan, and you'll need a surface-mount box of some sort.


What kind of wall do I have, and do I need anchors?

For a 30 pound mirror i would not use just screws into plaster and lath.

If your wall is as you state in the comments then i would use My favorite Toggle anchors

They are very strong and have a beefy machine screw.

You will need a 1/2 inch drill bit. You drill the hole, collapse the anchor, slide it into the hole, snug up the wall tab and break off the excessive part of the tabs, then just thread in the machine screw.

There needs to be enough room in the cavity of the wall for the anchor to go in and make its turn.

If your wall is plaster and lath there is a possibility that the back side where the toggle will be sitting against is not flat, this would cause the toggle to not be straight and aligning the screw to thread in may be problematic.

Here is short but informative video on how to install.


Sure you can do that, as long as the total number of outlets on that circuit doesn't exceed the maximum allowed (In Canada we are allowed 12 on a 15A circuit) Since you're adding a light, you will be increasing the number of outlets on that circuit by 1, so you should count all the receptacles (each duplex receptacle counts as 1 outlet even if you're not presently using them) and lights on that circuit.


Can’t do it
The unusual wire colors mean one thing: this house has conduit for its wiring. That would only happen if your jurisdiction requires it.
It’s rather unfortunate.  If you had spent hours watching Youtube videos on extending circuits with metal conduit, you’d be eager to get into what happens next.  Sadly you watched videos on extending circuits with “Romex” (NM-B cable), so you have a strongly held expectation that you’ll be doing that next.
You can’t.  It’s illegal.  At the time you’re selling your house, the inspector will flag it, and you’ll have to pull a permit to tear it out, tear it out, pull another permit to put it back in, then put it back in right.
You’ll need to run up to the lamp location with conduit, using proper conduit laying methods.  At that point you can get some THHN wire, a white wire for neutral and red for switched-hot, from the switch to the lamp inside the conduit.
The wires.
Neutral is the white one, and probably does not go to the switch.  A voltage tester will show one is always-hot; that goes to the switch.  The other one will be hot when the switch is on; that one goes to the switch and lamp.


Can I use steel framing in a shower enclosure

I've used steel studs in bathrooms many times. The temperature never seemed to be a determining factor.
I personally would hesitate using green board and would use one of the many cement board, wonder boards, that are out there. Structurally, they are much better than the green board and will last longer. Also think about using a water proof coating like Red Guard in the shower areas. There's no problem with adding sheet rock over sheet rock. Just go wall to wall for appearances. You'll need longer screws and will need junction box extenders for any fixtures.


how critical are distances between studs?

Not critical at all.  There are best practices.  Like making sure corners have stud surface on both sides, making all studs 16 on center, make all studs plumb.  Does it matter?  No.  Do inspectors care?  No.  Now I wouldn't suggest making your studs further than 16 inches but back in the day they were generally 24 for basements.  I have seen people do them at 12.  The only concern that you should have is when you drill the drywall in, is the stud in question going to cause issues...

But if it were me I would just whack it back in place.

Note: That my answer here is given that it is a non-loadbearing basement wall.  If the wall was a loadbearing wall or attached to a loadbearing wall it would differ a bit.  In a basement the framing is just space to put insulation, wires, pipes, and an attachment point for drywall.


Please help me understand my HVAC wiring

Your air handlers don't need those connections (and aren't even equipped to use them)

The explanation for what's going on here goes back into the mists of history, back to when forced-air, fuel-fired furnaces and fan-coil air handlers were first developed.

Back in the bad old days

Early gas furnaces had only two thermostat wires, R and W.  A call for heat from the thermostat closed the gas valve and fed gas to the burner, which the pilot then ignited, producing heat.  (Oil burners are roughly similar save for having more combustion control complexity.)  This was fine in gravity duct systems, but when forced air came to pass, something had to turn the fan on and off at the right time.  You can't have the fan turn on with the burner or else you'll get a bunch of cold air out until the heat exchanger in the furnace warms up; likewise, turning the fan off immediately when the call for heat goes away isn't always wise either.  So, a fan thermostat (often combined with the high-limit in more modern furnaces) mounted in the furnace plenum is used to switch the fan on and off autonomously.

This means that when a G wire is added to such a system, it is a request for the blower to come on.  The blower can come on without a call for it from the thermostat, and in modern furnaces, it is possible for the furnace control to override the thermostat's blower call (say if a call for heat comes during a call for fan, to allow the heat exchanger to come up to temp as it should).  Adding A/C means that the furnace needs to know to turn the fan on during a cooling call, so the Y wire is also routed to the furnace control in these systems so that the fan can be run at the correct speed during a call for cooling.

Enter electric, stage right

However, some people didn't want to mess with gas in their house, and other folks wanted to get rid of messy oil tanks or expensive propane, and its attendant delivery hassles.  For them, the first alternative that developed was what is called an "electric furnace" -- this is a fan-based air handler with resistance heating elements in the airstream.  While not as economical as piped fuels, electric heat was seen as safer as it couldn't leak and/or explode, and also is cheaper than trucked-in propane or heating oil.

When the early electric central heating furnaces were designed, though, the designers had a decision to make: who should control the fan?  Unlike fuel-fired systems, with electric heat the full heating power is available instantly and the peak temperatures are happening inside the duct.  This means that the fan needs to come on basically instantly to keep temperatures within the air handler acceptable.  As a result, either the air handler or the thermostat could get delegated the job, and to save some money on a fan relay in the air handler, the job got left to the thermostat.

Hydronic fan coils like yours and direct-expansion heat pump air handlers are the same way -- hydronic heat is available whenever the boiler and circulator are going, and likewise with a heat pump where heat's on whenever the reversing valve is set for heat, the compressor is going, and the outdoor ambient isn't too cold.  In this scheme, the G wire is a demand for fan from the thermostat -- if the thermostat calls for heat but not blower, then the air handler will shut down on high-limit after a little while to protect itself from damage.  Likewise, the Y wire is not needed by the air handler since the thermostat will call for blower along with a call for cooling.

Fast-forward

Since HVAC supply houses don't want to stock 57 flavors of thermostat, nor do HVAC people want to have to sort through thermostats on their truck just to find a compatible one, modern thermostats are compatible with a wide variety of systems: gas or oil forced-air furnaces, electric forced-air furnaces, hydronic zone valves or circulators controlling fan coils, heat pumps, or even mixed systems.  Hence, all modern thermostats have a setting for fan control -- older ones used a jumper or switch inside the thermostat, while newer 'stats like yours set this mode using a software option.  In the "gas/oil" or "fossil" position or mode, the thermostat only calls for blower if the fan switch is set to ON.  In the "electric" position or mode, the thermostat calls for blower if the fan switch is set to ON, or if the fan switch is set to AUTO and a call for heating or cooling is taking place.

In your case

Your fan coils are designed along the paradigm of an electric furnace; namely, that the thermostat is in charge of the G wire.  In fact, neither Y nor W are even connected to any circuitry within your air handlers -- the terminals are provided there to serve as convenient wire-landing-points, that's all.

So, both your thermostats are set up correctly, and the 0180 setting should not be changed or else you'll get quite poor performance out of your system unless you select the fan ON all the time (albeit not a high-limit trip since hydronic fan coil units can't meltdown due to lack of airflow, unlike their electric or fuel-fired counterparts which need high-limit protection for safety's sake).

As to the C wires going back to the zone valves? That's just a return path for electricity so that you have a closed circuit from the air handler transformer, to the thermostat, to the zone valves, and back to the transformer.  (It's also where the C wires coming back from the air conditioner compressor contactors join in.)


How to remove shiny black coating from a textured window?

Use a paint remover with methylene chloride. It will effectively soften and/or liquify common household paints.

Follow directions exactly when using it, especially safety stuff like good ventilation, proper gloves, eye protection, etc.


Laser printer on same circuit interferes with lights and LCD monitors

Since you've posted a lot more info, I'm editing my answer to suit your need and those who might have a similar issue in the future.

TLDR: You have good electrical, you just overloaded it.  It happens.

The crux of the problem is you were overloading a single branch circuit.  You've got continuous loads of 6-10 amps (computer), three 0.5-1 amp (A) monitors, at least 2A of lighting, so 9.5-15A.  So far, within the range of a single 20A branch circuit.

The printer, however, pushed your good wiring past design limits. The printer claims 10A draw while underway, which means drawing up to 25A on a 20A circuit.  But fusers often have a fraction-of-a-second inrush current of 20A or more.  This guaranteed a brownout on any single 20A circuit, and risked a breaker trip.

When you revised your question, you showed us pictures and diagram of the site.  There's an outlet right next to the service panel.  Electricians typically install those to power their own tools while wiring the house, and they put them on a separate circuit. Moving the printer there is a good permanent solution.

Now, how do you catch this in the future? Get a $20 Kill-a-Watt power monitor.  It lets you measure each load (in turn) so you can definitely know the current each appliance draws, and plan circuit balance.  It will also show voltage sags, which combined with the known current draws make it easy to distinguish a true overload from a too-long wire run.

When you simply need to draw more power than a circuit can handle, there is no gadget which will let you do that.

Not Surge suppressors.  They limit voltage surges, not voltage dips.
Not automatic voltage regulators or line-interactive UPS's.  They make things even worse, by drawing more current still to compensate for lost voltage. They are intended for cases where the utility company cannot provide full voltage to your house, and your branch circuit has extra amp capacity.  They should never be used to correct voltage sag in an overloaded branch circuit.
Not UPS's.  You might think a UPS could store power to help bridge across short-term overloads, but as a practical thing, no.  That's not what they're made for.

The tech that works is plain old copper wire.  Installing wire is a very learnable skill for tech types, and it's shockingly cheap.  The cost is in the labor, which can be considerable if it's behind finished walls.

If you have no other option, there's a bold trick that lets you double a circuit's capacity: Re-designate the circuit to be 240V.  Keep the wire, change all outlets, the breaker, and any fixed appliances like lights.  Some of your gadgets are already multi-voltage (120-240V).  For the rest, use a transformer. For wired-in lighting, disconnect or make sure the fixture is rated for 240V, and use multi-voltage or 240V bulbs. For fluorescent lights, most new ballasts are already multi-voltage 120-277V, check yours and replace ballast if needed.  While complicated, this is a solid and safe solution to a hard problem.


What is this thing that looks like a light socket but isn't

It looks like the outer shell broke off that the lamp screws into. These are simple 2 wire fixtures with a pull chain on off switch. You can still purchase ceramic ones just like the one you have and there are some plastic ones that can be found for less than 5$. Make sure to turn the power off Remove the 2 screws and lower the fixture. Some of these have screws that the wires are attached to some pig tails. Make sure to note the wires they should be white on the shell and black on the switch and then to the center conductor. A real easy fix.


How should I reconnect my light fixture?

Your specific wiring is not entirely clear from your picture but here is the number one mistake novices make:

In most older homes the switch loop comes down from the light fixture to the switch and then back up to feed the light. At the time your house was built the switch location did not require a neutral. So you probably only have a 2 wire cable going to the switch and as the Electrical Code requires, the white wire feeds the switch hot and the return from the switch back to the light is a black wire. The white wire to the switch is supposed to be re-identified a different color. Usually it just gets black tape put on it but often it was not properly re-identified at all. (Probably the case at your place)

So, what this means is that you have reconnected your light to the hot black from the panel and the neutral white back to the panel. So your light is on all the time as long as the breaker is on. If you connected the white and black from the switch to these bundles then when you flip the switch it should trip the breaker.

You need to identify which cable goes to the switch. The white wire in that cable should be taped black and connected to the black bundle. Then the black wire coming back from the switch goes to the black on the light. The white on the light goes to the white of the cable feeding the box from the panel.

Good luck!


No. That would be like sealing the bottom side of a sponge--moisture will travel through it to emerge in other areas.

You can probably accomplish the repair even in winter. A water hose will quickly melt snow and ice from the areas you need to access, or use scaffolding and other hardware to work over it.


They are old ladder jacks.
Here is a picture in use:

And they can go under as well:


Paint blisters and bubbles right after professional paint job, then rain

I'm not an expert in the chemistry of paint so I did a little research and found this.

As the paint dries at different rates, it begins to pull and contract on one side, and stretch on the other, causing a bubble to form. The other way this can happen is if it rains on paint before it has dried completely.

Bubbles that occur on paint after it rains almost always happen very soon after the paint has been applied, and before it has had a chance to dry properly – often within the first 24 hours, although it could happen up to a week or more after the application.

Ref: https://www.homelogic.co.uk/exterior-paint-bubbling-after-rain-heres-what-to-do

Not sure if this helps but it seems to fit your description.


Are you getting ANY cool air coming out of your vents or condensation drainage from the A/C drain pipe by your inside A/C unit?  A good rule of thumb I've used for residential A/C is to have about a 15-20 degree drop between room temperature and air coming from the A/C.

A few suggestions to check before calling an trustworthy A/C repair service person:

Check to make sure you don't have a utility mizer device hooked up to your A/C that cycles the power based on a signal from your utility company.  If you do, you can contact them to make sure you don't have a problem that's causing the outside unit to cut in and out based on a faulty signal from your electric utility.
Check/change your inside air filter to make sure it's not blocked with dust/debris that's limiting airflow.
Check your outside unit to make sure the coils are clean and aren't being blocked.  If your coils look quite dusty/dirty, take a hose and spray out the dust and dirt.  DO NOT use a pressure washer as that puts too much force onto the aluminum fins and will cause them to bend and become less efficient in transferring heat away.

But, as others have suggested based on your comment about the outside compressor turning on and off every 3-5 minutes or so, it sounds like something that needs a professional to look at as the most likely scenario would be a coolant leak, which requires a professional to diagnose and repair.


Its hard to view the pictures on my phone, but two possibilities I can see:

The ceiling drywall may be unsupported at the edge.  Usually you put the ceiling up first, so the wall drywall supports the edges of it.  You can't do this (easily) if at some point only the ceiling was repaired.  This could make it flex down a bit between the joists it is screwed to.

Poor taping and mudding.  Between sheets of drywall you use tape (basically strips of paper) and mud to smooth out the edges.  Some of those look like the tape started to pull away from the ceiling before the mud hardened.

If it hasn't changed, its nothing to worry about - just a cosmetic annoyance.

Edit:  Looking closer from a computer, I'm almost certain that's just a poor taping job.  You can clearly see the inch or so line across the seam where the tape is.


Mule Tape Size for Pulling 4/0 4/0 2/0 180ft in 2 1/2" conduit

I only use 1” mule tape and poly string for the most part if I am pulling in a larger service using a tugger I will use double braided rope.
I would suggest rope for a diy pull as I have not seen “small spools” of mule tape or poly pull string.
If this is a long pull you would be better off with some pull lube, in the old days we used dawn dish soap but it drys out and if you ever need to get it out of the pipe it can be a pain, today I use poly water,  And other lubes.
A straight pull some one pushing and someone pulling you should not need much strength, the reason I use wider tape is to keep from cutting through gloves and hands AND through conduit I have had small tape cut through a sweep with pvc even with lube.
a rope may be your most cost effective method unless a big box store has smaller spools I buy pull string in buckets that are over a mile and I believe the mule tape 1000’ is a small spool but there may be smaller ones out there. But you can buy 3/8 rope much cheaper.


How to reduce heating of cold water pipes in the ceiling space?

If you dont want to run a new pipe you will need specific insulation

Notice that this insulation has a shiny outside layer. This acts as a reflection for heat, and usually has a black/dark side on the inside.

The foam/glass wool used to wrap the pipe needs not be anything special, but I am sure there are special ones that locks out heat better.. instead of the conventional one that keeps heat in.. is there a difference? I am not sure.

Look at this insulation- They wrap silver around the pipe and then insulate it. You DONT want to do this.. because this keeps the heat INSIDE the pipe, and the insualtion slows down absorption of coldness form the earth

As commented- it has no difference--inside or outside- it will deflect the heat in both cases... This is open to debate though.

So you are looking for Glass Wool Pipe Insulation with reflective outer shield


Replacing the toilet fill valve is an easy DIY project.  You can buy a new one for less then $20.00.

I found this YouTube video that is a good tutorial.

I am not affiliated with them.

You only need minimal tools and to know how to turn off water supply valve.

There is a valve just under your toilet on the side with the flush lever. Turn the valve handle clockwise until it stops. Flush the toilet to drain the water out, there should not be any water coming out of the tube if the valve is shut completely.
I like to take a big sponge and soak up the remaining water in the tank but you can use a bucket to catch the extra water that comes out when you remove the fill valve.

Use a pair of adjustable pliers to loosen the nut of the top of the supply hose that connects to the fill valve on the bottom of the tank (basin). Once the supply line is disconnected  there is a plastic nut that holds the fill valve in place on the bottom of the tank, use the pliers to loosen this and then remove by hand, remove the rubber gasket as well. Now you can pull the valve out of the tank. ( if there is any extra water in the tank it will run out of the hole so have your bucket under the hole. )

Now you just reverse the process with the new valve and follow the instructions to adjust the fill level, ( the shut off point that tells the valve when to stop filling )

Yes even you can do it. ;).


The first means of disconnect is considered the service. In your case the one on the pole.

Any panels fed from that would be considered sub-panels and should keep the grounds and neutrals separate and leave the bonding screw out.

The conductors between the service and sub-panel are considered feeders even if they are protected by an overcurrent device and should be run accordingly.

Good luck and stay safe!


Should insulation batts in my attic be lifted off the ceiling, leaving a gap?

Sounds like a sloppy install to me, and as a result the insulation that's not in continuous contact with the ceiling panels is doing nothing. If air can circulate around the insulation, virtually no heat is retained or blocked (in winter and summer, respectively). If this was some sort of intentional air gap there would also be an air barrier over the insulation (out of necessity).

I would do my best to lay and fit the batts that are there, then I'd consider overlaying blown cellulose (an easy DIY job) to fill voids and bring your R-value up to modern standards.


Should anode rod avoid touching bottom of Water Heater?

I am sure that the anode rod should not contact the inside of the tank. This would surely damage the inside layer of the tank.


Can I steal a neutral wire from another circuit?

The other answer and the comments are of course correct, but there is a second aspect to it: it won't work.

Actually, it may appear to work, until you try to install a GFCI just about anywhere on either of the two circuits involved.

A GFCI works by comparing the current through the hot wire and the corresponding neutral wire. If those two currents don't match, the GFCI will trip. When you "steal" the neutral from another circuit, the current will go out through one hot wire, but come back through a different neutral.

I actually had an older home where the dishwasher and some kitchen outlet were wired on two different circuits with a shared neutral (that was probably grandfathered in from an earlier era). Trying to bring the kitchen up to code, I was going crazy trying to figure out why the GFCI would trip every time I turned on the dishwasher!


Yes, you can purchase "masonry sanding disks" or sheets for common sanders. Just watch out for the dust.

Here the wall has a lot of irregularities.  Consider a chisel to get the bad stuff knocked down, then a professional skim coat of plaster over the top.