If you are talking about the part foremost in your image then a quality adjustable spanner (with parallel faces) is what I use, with an open end spanner on the flats on the shaft which will be below the cable device held on by that nut.


What could be causing the main breaker to continually trip?

This is a classic problem. The breaker connection to the buss is compromised/arcing/burned/etc. The fact that the breaker is getting hot and tripping under a load well below it's rating is clear evidence. This fact also says it is past the time when it should have been replaced.

Tell your "maintenance man" to get a real electrician in there NOW! This job is well beyond the scope of a maintenance man.
It is almost a certainty that the enclosure/guts will need to be replaced along with the breaker itself.

I have photos of this exact situation from some of the ones I have done.


Is this substance drywall joint compound?

I believe what I see is the paper for the drywall. There are adhesives but I see wrinkled paper if there is a filler in that point not the paper a clear photo of the tan material would be needed to make a guess. Over the years I have seen everything from sheetrock mud to modeling clay used to patch drywall with even mortar in a few cases.
Note sheetrock or drywall mud can discolor yo a brown or iron oxide color when metal corners are used and if there is moisture in the room other than the torn paper to the left of the nail I don’t see tan.


Ceiling fan requires fewer wires than available in box

In many homes, boxes wired for ceiling fans will have one wire that is always hot, and another that is connected to a switch.  In my experience, the black wire is switched and the red is always hot, but that may not be standard and you would need to test your wires.

If you want the fan to be "always on" and only controlled with the remote, then you want to use the always hot wire and cap the other.  If you'd rather have the fan turned on and off with the switch, and use the remote when the switch is on, you can use the switched wire and cap the other.

The wire color will have to be tested by you, and the choice of which to use is yours.


Should both ground and neutral in an electrical subpanel be bonded to the service ground?

This is an example of a 100 amp Sub-panel coming off of a 200 amp Main-panel.  Note the errors to current NEC code.  Since there was an upgrade to the system, this one needed to be upgraded to current standards.

The ground had been connected to the neutral lug and the ground stake had also been connected to same.  Also, note the horizontal bus connector bar.

(Believe it or not, the local electrical inspector missed this during remodeling with added circuits.)

This shows the corrected connections in the same panel.

This is the removed bar:


Can't do it

Here's the problem.  Your original installation only has the two wires, even though it controls both light and fan.  This means the original switch was not a plain switch.  It was a complex beast, which multiplexed both fan and light control onto those two wires.

It can be fairly guessed that it's having a conversation either with a smart fan, or with a fan control module sitting up there in the fan box.

As such, you cannot just slap any random switch in there.  You need to use a smart switch capable of speaking the lingua franca of whatever's up in the ceiling.  Most likely, that is a proprietary device made by the manufacturer of the fan: the information on the old switch will tell the tale.

Or, gut it and start over

Your other option is to completely gut the old control system, and install a new matched-set of fan control switch + control module (and fan too if the requisite smarts is built into the fan).

Since this appears to use the conduit wiring method, you can semi-easily add additional wires into the pipe if necessary; in principle you could even rollback to the old 3+ wire method of controlling fans + lights.

However, the very fact that you're groping in the dark wondering if a 3-way switch is what you need, tells me that you do not yet have the skills to accomplish such a redesign.  If you go this route, I'd either bring in help or skill up.

Otherwise just figure out how to get a compatible switch from the same manufacturer.


Why does my LED light flicker when turning it on using a dimmer switch?

Connect it electrically the same as before
Based on the pictures, the original connection was:

TWO black wires to one screw
A blue wire to another screw

In that case, the blacks are both hot. One is the incoming hot, the other is an outgoing hot to another location. That is a little odd because there is already a wire nut, so instead all those wires should have been connected using the wire nut with just one short wire (pigtail) to the screw. Under most circumstances, you should only have one wire per screw.
The blue wire is switched hot.
The new dimmer only needs two wires, unless it is used as part of a 3-way switch (i.e., 2nd switch elsewhere).
The instructions are not terribly clear in certain respects. However, it is pretty clear that for a single (not 3-way) switch, it does not matter which wire goes in which screw, as long as you put one wire on one color screw and another wire on a different color screw. Therefore, you put a black wire (just one, more below on that) on the screw that is a different color from the other two screws and the blue wire onto the screw opposite that screw (i.e., other side of switch rather than above it on the same side of the switch). That gets you hot and switched hot connected properly.
Now to the second black wire. The instructions actually say "Your wall switch may have two
wires attached to the same screw. Tape these two wires together before disconnecting." but then never (as far as I can tell) actually says what to do with the taped wires. Taping is not a valid way to permanently connect wires, and I don't think they actually meant "tape together electrically", but rather "tape together so you know where each of these wires that all look the same should go". In this particular situation, what you need to do is wire nut the two wires together and attach a pigtail (short piece of same colored wire) to the screw. Since your picture already shows a wire nut & pigtail, all you actually need to do is move the "extra" wire (the one that was originally on the screw and is not a pigtail) to the wire nut with everything else.
By connecting one black to one brass screw and the other black to the other brass screw, you effectively treated your hots (plural) as if they were travelers (used between 3-way switches). What that actually did (I think) is something like:

switched hot became "common"
hot (incoming) became "traveler 1"
hot (outgoing) became "traveler 2"

When switch is in "traveler 1 ON" mode:

common connects to traveler 1 == Light on
traveler 2 OFF == something elsewhere in the house isn't going to work

When switch is in "traveler 2 ON" mode (which is the same as "traveler 1 OFF" == "just flip the switch":

traveler 1 OFF == Light off
common connects to traveler 2 == everything else in the house works normally

As far as the blinking when turning on the light, I suspect that is simply the way the bulb is handling the initial signal form the dimmer. It is possible that other bulbs will work better, but hard to say. Dimming LEDs is a tricky business - almost amazing that any of them can dim at all when run on AC.


Garage door won't open unless I hold the wall button down

I checked again, the spring is broken. Need to call professional.


Span calculator using arbitrary spacing?

There are several issues: 1) true load on joists, 2) true existing joist size, 3) joist spacing, 4) joist bearing/ support,

1) The Code requires a minimum of 40 psf for usable loft/attic rooms. However, the equipment you describe could easily exceed that amount, but that load would be near the perimeter of the room probably. You have about 2’ of head room on the rave sides, but could be substantially higher on the rake sides. (“10’ stud nailed 8’ up.”) of course the sides with substantially more load will require substantially more support. So, a uniform joist installation will probably not be sufficient.

2) The existing joists appear to be 2x8’s not 2x6’s. However, I’ll use your notation.

3) Existing joist spacing appears to be 16” o.c. (To match stud spacing.)

4) Existing joist support is in shear (balloon framing) with 3-16d (I assume) at each existing joist. Additional load will require additional support.

So, in order for the new attic load to be transferred to the footing, the new joists will need to be secured to the existing studs, (because there is no double top plate).

Without knowing the actual load from the equipment, I’ll assume a minimum of 50 psf plus an additional 30 psf along the gable ends.

I’d sister 2-2x6’s to the existing 2x6’s (1 on each side of the existing 2x6). I’d add a 2x4 under each joist down to the sole plate.

Along the gable end, I’d add 2-2x6’s on each side of the existing 2x6 joists for the first 2 spaces (32” or 2 joists) with 1-2x4 under each added joist. (I’m assuming the first joist will be nailed to the studs on the gable end.)

Btw, with that much equipment, you’ll need to consider adding cooling equipment too.


What does the word "Post" mean written on this electrical box cover?

I believe that this perhaps was slated for the connection point between the UF cable going to a post/yard light and the indoor NM switch leg.


Do I need to upgrade other circuits if I only plan to change one?

The ultimate arbiter is your AHJ. Don't be afraid to ask.

My experience in the area (less City proper, more peninsula) is that you won't have to change untouched circuits.


What types of materials should I consider when designing a bench?

Take a look at these Standardized Work Table Plans as it might give you some ideas. Obviously you would not need the lower shelf, but otherwise it would be similiar (but scaled down), and this thing can hold a lot of weight!

(source: eaa1000.av.org)


Does anyone recognize what this kind of hinge is for?

Hinge?

I look at that and see a clamp to assemble two panels at right-angles which is designed for easy assembly or disassembly and flat-packing.


240 v 15 amp instant hot water heater no neutral

We went through this in a discussion about using North American GFCI breakers in Europlaces where power is 240V only.  Turns out the breaker itself needs neutral for its internal bits.  But actually, your connection advice is nothing more than the standard advice for hooking up any GFCI.

First, hook up the LINE side of the GFCI

On a breaker, the 240V GFCI gets its two "hots" when it clips in place and contacts the two bus bars.  That was easy.

Neutral, however, is a little trickier: you need to connect the neutral pigtail to the neutral bus. Aside from some plug-on-neutral panels that I don't much like, neutral is not available as a "rail" that the breaker can just clip onto.

Second, test for correct operation

Now that the GFCI is fully powered, you light it up and run it through its paces.  In this case that means hitting "Test" a few times and resetting it.

Third, hook up the LOAD side

Now with the GFCI checked out, you attach loads. On a GFCI breaker, the LOAD terminals basically are the ordinary output lugs every breaker has, except there's an extra one for the neutral.

Every conductor must attach to the GFCI, so if it was a split-phase load like a dryer, all 3 conductors would go to the GFCI.

However in your case, you only have the two hots, so those go to the two "hot" terminals on the breaker.  And you're done.

But I would talk to your AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction, or permit issuer/inspector) and see if a GFCI breaker is really necessary for a hard-wired, hard-plumbed heater. I don't think it is, but local codes vary.


Hurricane ties installed using joist hanger nails top AND bottom. Should I yank them out?

Nah - most of the strength is in shear, and joist hanger nails are nice and fat so they have good shear strength.

also, yanking them is likely to be harder than you think.

The actual nailing schedule seems to be here:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.asp

That suggests that 10d are one size larger than you should use in a model H1Z hanger (since that's the one you pictured and you did not give a model, I have to assume that's the model you have.) The specs call for 8dx1-1/2 (joist hanger) and 8d (standard 2-1/2") - if you are forcing 10d in there they might end up weaker due to surface damage.

The table appears to include a column for "uplift with 8dx1-1/2" implying that installing them with joist hanger nails everywhere is not unheard of. It changes the uplift from 585 to 455 pounds (per hanger) on the H1 size hanger (Z is a coating suffix) (those values are for "DF/SP" presuambly douglas fir and similar quality spruce - for "SPF/HF" the difference is only 400 lbs .vs. 370 lbs.


Is sanding the best option to remove peeling wall paint?

Lead paint was banned for residential use in 1978 in the United States and as late as 1992 in the UK, so any house that was painted previous to that date could be lead-based. If sand it becomes a dangerous air born particulate. If inhaled and absorbed into the blood stream.... Well, we all know it's bad for you. If you are unsure there are test kits for lead in paint: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Lead+paint+

After donning protective gear (respirator [filtered type], disposable suit, etc.) scrape as much of the offending paint from the wall as possible. Use a wide head scraper with a handle above the scraper head which will enable more force to be exerted onto the sharpened steel thusly removing more paint faster. Try to use sanding as a final, desperate act. If you do need to sand you will need to make safety accommodations for the dust: plastic tarps to enclose the area, window fans to exhaust wayward dust, vacuums attached to sander exhaust ports. And the tedious clean-up of the surrounding surfaces when sanding is done for the day. Place all paint chips  and any disposable gear in a plastic bag and tape it closed. Bring it to a local hazardous waste collection site.

Wash the newly exposed walls with a solution of TSP and warm water. Once the freshly washed walls have dried sand with 80-100 grit paper, wipe the walls with a damp rag. Prime and paint as usual.


Some of the low volume toilets manage to flush very quickly because of newer designs. Some of it has to do with coatings on the bowl, and the pathways inside of the toilet. But one change that makes a large difference is a larger flapper and opening that allows the water to drain much faster (the only downside is that you'll need special replacement parts in the future).

The last time I was shopping for toilets, they had a rating of how powerful the flush was in each toilet, which is much more useful than the gallons per flush. My newest toilet flushes much better than any of the older toilets, while using much less water.


The Makita XMT series of tools is marketed toward tradespeople and professionals while the DMT is for the mass market.  Little outward differences but generally there are significant differences in durability and reliability.  You'll find DMT at big box stores and the like.  Usually you'll only find XMT at professional supply outlets.

If you are just going to be using it for typical homeowner duties, the DMT is your best value.  If you expect to use the tool to make a living, then consider XMT.


What is the right way/tool to remove this tile and thinset from a concrete slab?

Hammer and chisel.  That area should take about 10-15 minutes.  If you pat the area with a hammer it will break the bond with the tile.  The chisel isn't used much accept to knock off build up of thinset.


You can write on glass with a dry-erase marker and it will come off with a paper towel. (Try it yourself if you don't believe me!)  I've never left it on glass long enough for it to need any sort of solvent to remove, but I'd think that normal ammonia-based window cleaner would work OK; if not, you could always use dry-erase cleaner as a last resort.

The reason this works is that dry-erase boards (the rigid kind at least) have a thin ceramic coating to prevent the ink from penetrating pores in the white plastic substrate, and glass is a ceramic.

If there are any stubborn dry erase marker smudges left over, a sharp #9 razor blade will easily remove them.


Since you said the breaker is AFCI and the breaker is now tripping I would guess the controls in the air purifier or the heater control contacts are getting dirty. When contacts get dirty or pitted they arc more than new and will trip AFCI circuits. I love square d but AFCI and GFCI breaker troubleshooting stinks as they don’t have the indicators that other brands have to show what the trip was caused from.

I agree that you probably were not overloading the circuit and that it has recently started tripping can show some arcing in the contacts.

AFCI protection is there to detect wiring problems, being right at the panel and in your garage I would eliminate the AFCI it is not required but the GFCI is required.
Some might say it is protecting the home but a UL listed air purifier and space heater may keep tripping the breaker (the breaker could also be going bad). I have had many problems with AFCI breakers tripping on circuits that have speed control or ballasts all electronics no contacts so my state allows them to be removed with problem equipment.


King wall heater - fan works but no heat

I finally heard back from King today (very helpful once you get a response).  It answers my questions.
also i verified it was the heating "element" by taking it out of a working one, so i only had to replace that!!!

response from King (manufacturer):

  Yes this is our W series https://www.king-electric.com/pdfs/W_WEB.pdf
  These have a 1 year warranty.

  Here is the element
  http://www.morelectricheating.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=KINGELECTRIC50303&catlist=1363&parent=7983

  Its best to go by our catalog for dimensions. Other sites are popular
  for getting the diminsions wrong. The dimensions have been the same
  since the unit came out in 1992

  Here is the unit you need
  http://www.morelectricheating.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=KINGELECTRIC12743&catlist=262&parent=1366


Is it safe to use a portable microwave in a confined shelfspace?

Microwave ovens do not generate heat themselves, but cause the food itself to heat up. As such there is not a lot of heat output from the unit, but there is expanding air as the food warms the air in the chamber.

Reputable manufacturers are fairly conservative about their venting requirements. If you meet those requirements, you should be OK.

Another consideration is clearance for the door swing and for moving dishes in and out of the unit. Make sure that its positioning does not cause you to be handling a hot dish at an awkward angle. Also high shelves are a bit risky since you would be handling hot food at head and face level. A singed hand pulled back could lead to a bad scalding.

Finally, you need to be sure that there is an outlet nearby of the proper amperage. A 900 watt microwave draws about 8 amps. A line with a number of other heavy duty appliances on it may pop circuit breakers.


T&P relief valve's probe size issue - can I use a shorter exposed probe to replace a long one

The T&P probe should be the same length as the original to make sure it has the same contact with the water. Longer should be OK as long as it fits properly but shorter is not.


Obviously it could also be the shower arm threads are bad. When you thread in the shower arm do you get resistance after a few turns or is it loose until it suddenly hits the end of the threads?

Some people use both pipe dope and Teflon tape.

Alternatively, you can use "plumber's hemp" and use it in conjunction with pipe dope. Hemp may work better with loose threads. Hemp is used in Europe for parallel threads. US tapered threads normally don't need hemp, but sometimes it does the trick. Google for a Youtube video on how to apply it.

I wonder if heavy duty sewing thread would serve as well as the plumber's hemp?


Could my wall have been damaged while the painters were painting?

The damaged area could have been the place the shower head pipe may have originally projected out of the wall. When the rain type show head was installed it may have been moved to a lower level.

If this is the case then the damage that you see is just a shoddy hole repair. Fixing it up so that it looks decent will involve scraping, sanding and repainting the area as a minimum. Worst case it may mean removing the old patch and filling in with a replacement patch that was done correctly. Patch technique will depend somewhat on the type of wall it is. You mentioned plaster - is it on lathe or plaster backer board of some type?


My overhead door sticks at very beginning of open cycle

If your weatherstripping was installed firmly to the door, the problem is probably simple static friction. In total, the seal creates a substantial drag on the door, which is enhanced by warm weather making the seal softer and stickier.

I'd try applying a drying, not-greasy lubricant to the weather stripping--silicone or Teflon. Alternatively, adjust the depth of the door rail brackets slightly to reduce the pressure of the door against the seal.


Popping sound from specific spot on floor

If your home warranty covers it, that would be the way to go - get the builder to get it right as it should have been the first time. It's even possible that trying a DIY fix may void part or all of your warranty. That's something you'll definitely want to check into for future reference, too.
If your warranty won't cover it or you want to tackle it on your own anyway, this article lists several causes for noisy floors and some suggested solutions:
Hardwood floors

If you already have hardwood flooring and your floors squeak and pop, you might try the old remedy…baby powder or powdered graphite.  Placing these powders down between the planks helps to eliminate the squeak in some cases but is typically not a long term fix.  You can also eliminate major squeaks by having a friend stand on the squeaky board while you drive a screw up from below (if you have access) through the subfloor and into the plank.  Make sure your screw is of the proper size…you don’t want it to come up through the floor (and potentially into your friends foot).  You can determine the depth of your hardwood by removing one of the floor registers.

Floor pops or oil-can noise

If your floors squeak only when you walk across them and sounds like an oil can (a metal flexing sound), you probably have an HVAC duct that is deflecting when the floor moves...
All ductwork in the basement should have a 1” gap between the sheet metal and the joists.  This allows the joists to deflect without rubbing on the metal.  If you don’t have access to the heat runs because the ceiling below is drywalled, you need to decide how bad you want the noise to go away.

Squeaking floors

This is typically either a nail rubbing or a loose subfloor panel.  If you have access from below, locate the squeaky area as someone steps on the floor from above.  Check to see if any nails missed the joist in the location of the noise.  Sometimes a nail that misses a joist will rub on the framing below as the floor deflects.
If you don’t have access and you know there are no plumbing or electric wires in the location of the squeak, you can try driving trim nails through the carpet into the joists below.  Use a trim nail with no head.  Be careful not to catch carpet fibers under the nail.  This type of repair works about half of the time from my experience.  If your flooring is something other than carpet, you are out of luck.

Squeak or tick at a wall

Sometimes a floor will deflect and the wall stays in place...
This can sometimes be repaired by removing the basemolding and driving 3” long screws through the base of the wall into the subfloor (make sure you don’t hit any mechanicals).  This secures the subfloor to the bottom of the wall preventing the nail rub and resulting floor squeak or tick when the floor deflects.


How to choose correct drill bit size for screw and wallplug?

The wall plug may have a size molded into it, or the packaging will say. At any rate, the right size is usually the diameter at the widest point of the plug's taper (if present), not counting a flange. It should not take a lot of force to set the bare plug.

In the case of masonry (and most other materials) you can err on the small side and work larger until you get a good result.


why do i get cold water during the shower every time the pump kicks on

I would check the piping to the new hot water tank to make sure that the installer did not switch the cold inlet and hot outlet. What you explain suggests that the installer moved the cold water inlet to the hot water side so that when the well pump kicks on the cold water is being delivered into the hot supply piping from  the tank and not into the cold inlet supply. If you could, post pictures of the tanks piping and label the pipes.


Can I safely use a 9w LED bulb in place of a 40w incandescent?

Yes.  The fixture is concerned with heat.  Your LED light bulb makes about 9 watts of heat.   Your fixture is rated for a bulb that makes 40 watts of heat.

With an incandescent bulb, 98-99% of its wattage turns directly into heat.  Even LEDs, 90% of their wattage turns into heat. For thermal planning, it's not worth pulling out the calculator. You're "close enough" just pretending it all becomes heat.

On the LED bulb, when it says "75 watt equivalent" it's trying to give ordinary consumers a general sense of how bright the bulb is - i.e. about as bright as an old style 75 watt incandescent.  The more proper way to say that is "950 lumens", which is a unit of measure for describing brightness to human eyes.


Well normally all plumbing has a TRAP - there are a couple reasons for this - the P-TRAP fills with water and provides a barrier between the inside of the house and the outside of the house. This can prevent critters from entering (not completely but less likely), it also prevents sewer gases from entering into your home. Since yours happens to be when it is raining the sewer systems are loaded with additional water - and perhaps based on how that system is - your house is unduly affected. That said I would be investigating your plumbing for  the proper installation of TRAPS.

You stated in a Bathroom and also in a living room. Where is this living  room in proximity to that bathroom or other drains in the house ?

I suspect you have a missing TRAP somewhere or a blocked Vent Stack - and most probably related to that specific bathroom. Your plumber should run a camera down the drains in that bathroom and the Toilet itself, and also the VENT Stack for that bathroom - plumber should check for clogs of the vent stack or a covering - as when it rains is your vent stack becoming blocked.

Seeing as it is new construction sometimes things are blocked off during construction or debris can fall into it thereby creating a blockage. Have the plumber check it thoroughly with a camera system - snake the thing does not tell you much unless you run into something. The camera will spill the beans.


Should I use a subfloor for a finished basement's floor?

I just recently finished my basement project.  I spent a lot of time scouring the web and grilling friends and co-workers about their basements to gather information to try to make an informed decision on this very subject.

Here are the options I considered:

Carpet tiles directly over concrete

PROS

cheap

CONS

cold feet
hard, unforgiving floors
Potential for condensation/mildew, even if floor is mostly dry

VERDICT

I couldn't find a tile with a padding thick enough to make the floor even close to comfortable in a midwestern US winter

Traditional carpet and pad directly over concrete

PROS

Pretty cheap
Many choices of carpet and padding thicknesses available

CONS

Floor is still much harder than wood subfloor
Even thick padding can still leave the floor a bit chilly
Potential for condensation/mildew, even if floor is mostly dry

VERDICT

Thick padding can help the floor feel less cold, and less hard, but it's no match for wood, especially if you have a kid's playroom or a workout room in the basement
It seems like asking for moisture/mildew trouble to not allow air circulation between concrete and carpet

Rigid foam insulation under 5/16" plywood subfloor

PROS

Cheap
Good R-value to provide insulation from cold
Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor

CONS

Opinions vary about how long the foam will last before breaking down
Installation instructions vary wildly (some anchor directly to floor, others anchor through wood bracing, etc.)
Opinions vary about how much air circulation the foam would allow

VERDICT

Although it doesn't seem like a terrible idea, there just wasn't enough information about this approach to make me feel comfortable trying it

DRIcore-style subfloor tiles

PROS

Dimpled underside allows excellent air circulation over concrete
Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor
Most come in 2'x2' tiles so there are no 4'x8' sheets to lug around
Easy install, much like a "floating" hardwood floor
Nothing anchored into the concrete

CONS

By far the most expensive option
Each 4 sq foot panel is about $5.50 [as of 2016]
USD

VERDICT

I had a fairly large amount of floor to cover, and this was just too expensive.  It would have approached 20% of the total budget for the project.

Dimpled underlayment under 5/16" plywood subfloor

UPDATED March 2019

The Platon underlayment I used years ago seems to be hard to find these days. Home Depot currently offers what appears to be a similar underlayment product called DMX 1-STEP, and others may be available from other manufacturers.

PROS

Dimpled underside allows excellent air circulation over concrete
Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor
Much cheaper than the DRIcore tiles, because the Platon is purchased separately in large rolls

CONS

More difficult to install than probably any other option
4'x8' plywood subfloor is no fun to lug around
Requires the subfloor to be anchored to the concrete

VERDICT

Although it required more manual labor, the cost was less than 10% of what it would have cost to use the DRIcore tiles
I still got it done in just a few days, with some help moving the plywood
I used a hammer drill and Tapcon concrete screws to secure the floor
My basement floor is as warm and soft as any other floor in my house, and it didn't cost an arm and a leg


Overhead door doesn't close with one sensor not lit

Both sensors will show a light if they're 1) connected correctly, and 2) sending and receiving the beam because they're in alignment. The lights may be different colors. This is normal.

If one is out, first check alignment. There are often wingnut adjusters allowing you to swivel and tilt the sensors. They don't have to be perfectly aligned, but they need to be close.

Then, check wiring for damage and connection. Typically the whites connect to one screw, and the blacks another. The whites may share a screw with the white from the opener button.


Schlage single cylinder lockset won't release from the door

If you have an identical lockset, then you know exactly how many fastening screws there are. If removing them all doesn't loosen the cover plates, they must be held in place by adhesion to the door's finish.

Using your sharpest knife, carefully cut the paint or varnish adjacent to the cover plates. Score it all the way round, the gently work the knife point under the edge of the cover. Be very patient and pry only a little bit at a time.

You will improve with practice, so work on the inside cover plate first, leading to less damage around the outside cover to attract the attention of the HOA snoops.


Trying to finish a full basement but footers arent deep enough?

Yes, you have to underpin your foundation with new footers. This is not an easy--or likely cheap fix, however.


What lubricant should I use for an outside garage door lock?

You'll want to use a dry silicone lubricant like this.

Or a graphite lubricant like this.

The liquid part of these lubricants evaporates quickly, leaving behind a protective coating that will keep the lock functioning properly for quite some time.

You don't want to use a lubricant like WD-40, because it will not evaporate completely and will collect dirt and debris and eventually freeze the lock again.

For an exterior lock exposed to the elements, you'll want to reapply the lubricant occasionally (about once every year or two depending on the weather), or anytime the lock seems sticky.


There are products which claim to hide cracks on windshields by injecting an adhesive with similar refractive index. I have no idea whether they work in that application, and your glass objects may have different optical properties, so there is no promise that this won't make matters worse rather than better.


What's a good general purpose light-use drill?

I've had pretty good luck with Ryobi tools in the past, and the drill you are looking at will certainly do what you want it to.

Normally I'd recommend a cordless drill to just about anybody, but if you find that you will hardly ever use it, a corded drill might be better.  No point in having a cordless drill if the battery is always dead when you need it because it sat around for 6 months without being used or charged.


Is aluminum Underground Service Entrance cable safe for a 200 ampere service?

Yes. For service conductors aluminum is perfectly acceptable and typical in many/most places. AL conductors of today are not the same as they were 40 years ago, and the problems associated with AL were typically with smaller conductors, #12 & #10 solid.


What is this kind of security bolt head called, and how can I remove it?

It's called a spanner slotted (or slotted spanner) head. Useful site here. Hard to find in the UK, why the owner used one I cannot imagine. Screwfix doesn't have them. This site may do, although it is international. You'll need to figure out the correct size before you order.

Alternatively get a real cheap flat-head screwdriver the right width and file down the middle until you get the right notch.

If you can grip it with a pliers try a pair of locking pliers and unscrewing it that way I keep a mini vise-grips handy for that sort of thing.


Battery Backup for 240V (USA) Water Well

If you have not yet bought the pump, you may want to reconsider. If you buy a 3 phase pump, you can use a VFD to power it. Use a VFD that will accept a DC input directly, then you don't need the inverter (it IS an inverter). That will avoid the starting current surge of the motor, because  VFD controls that. The down sides: Your DC voltage for a 230V pump will need to be around 330VDC, so that's 28 12 volt batteries in series (I'd go 30 to give you some head room as the batteries get old). It's also going to be expensive.
Alternative #2; get a solar powered well pump, basically a Permanent Magnet DC pump motor, no inverter needed at all. Also expensive, but MUCH simpler.


Why would a portable heater set off a carbon monoxide alarm?

If your carbon monoxide alarm is going off, you need to assume that there's actually carbon monoxide in dangerous levels in that area. If the heater is electric it probably shouldn't be emitting CO but maybe there's a manufacturing defect that's causing the heating element or plastic to burn.

CO is lethal and totally undetectable by people, so if the alarm goes off you need to leave the building and open the windows. The absence of smoke does not mean that you are safe.

(CO detectors have a limited lifespan: 2-10 years, depending on the model. There should be a date stamped on it somewhere. If it's at "retirement" age you should probably replace it anyway, and then you can see if the new one still goes off.)

Revision based on question update:

You must not ignore the CO detector. People can and do die in their own homes of CO poisoning, oblivious to the problem. Unlike smoke/fire, there's no way for you to tell the source of the problem or evaluate its severity, and no way to tell if the problem has been resolved. You probably have a sub-standard or defective heater — I would not use it anymore.


Why does standing water collect along the bottom edge of my roof?

As Jimmy said, apparently the area in question effectively has no pitch. It's a low spot possibly due to poor workmanship on the drip edge. Some roofers install it incorrectly, creating a "ski jump" at the eave.

As you have a glass roof, I'm really not sure what your situation is. A photo would help us offer more specific advice.


Why would two regular outlets stop working after I replaced GFCI outlets?

There are a couple of possibilities for how this could happen, but the simplest theory is that you failed to reconnect the wire feeding those outlets to the LOAD side terminals on the GFCIs.  Turn the power off to the kitchen circuits and check in the GFCI-containing boxes for loose/unconnected wires.

If you don't find anything in there, there are three possibilities:

You knocked the wires feeding the outlets out of the boxes during the GFCI replacement.  Unfortunately, you'll probably need an electrician to come in and fix your divot for you in this case.
The outlets weren't GFCI protected, and you somehow managed to miss their HOT wire in the box -- perhaps your kitchen is on a multi-wire branch circuit, and the receptacle HOT wires never were connected back in when the GFCIs are replaced?
You interchanged the LOAD and LINE terminals when installing the new GFCIs -- the outlet itself will still function, but not as a GFCI, and it will not pass power "backwards".  What happens when you press the TEST button on the GFCI?  It should trip if and only if it's wired a semblance of correctly -- and will not trip if reverse-wired as there's no power on the LINE side for it to trip with.
The GFCI itself isn't passing power -- try tripping it manually with the TEST button then resetting it.  If everything is indeed wired correctly and it still doesn't pass power when tripped and reset, you have a pair of dud GFCIs on your hands, and it's time to replace 'em.


How can I attach an overflow cover in a bathtub with no access panel?

You don't need access from the back.

Usually the overflow tube is accessed from the bottom. If you can get to the trap then you can get to the overflow.

The trap and overflow tube come as an assembly and the overflow tube usually has two threaded bosses to mount your overflow drain cover and a rubber gasket that goes up against the back of the tub to seal it. You don't need to drill any holes in the tub itself.

Look for a new tub trap assembly with the drain and overflow included to suit your bathroom trim design (polished chrome, brushed nickel, etc.).

Good luck!


Are an outlet and a light bulb at the main electrical panel required?

No
There's nothing in the NEC that demands a power outlet or switched light be installed by the panel. Indeed, some outdoor installations would make that impractical.
The caveat here is that a panel might be located somewhere that needs a GFCI outlet because of the location, not the presence of the panel. For instance, if your panel is in your basement (sometimes considered a wet zone), and you need an outlet in that room, it might be most economical to put an outlet like that next to the panel. Local codes might demand a light for the room as well.


If you try to do this with a circular saw, your "straight line" will look straight only to Salvatore Dali. A heavy duty street cutter is required.

Of course, what objective there could be in cutting a driveway we can only guess at.


Why does using a dimmer with this ceiling fan and lights cause energy saving bulbs to flicker?

TL;DR: the dimmers aren't switching off completely: they're allowing some current to leak through, which is why you're seeing a voltage across the CFL.  A different make of bulb may behave better with the leakage current that you're getting.  Or perhaps a different brand of fan (if you haven't installed them all already).

I do know that operating CFLs in those sort of conditions will shorten their lives considerably, so you might actually be cheaper for you to use incandescents instead (a quick calculation says about 12 kWh per year for a 60 W bulb).

Read on for the technical explanation...

This is a circuit diagram of the innards of your fans:

The voltage across the bulbs, Vb is determined by the formula:

Vb = Vin * Rbulb / (Rdimmer + Rbulb)

where:

Vin is the mains voltage (120Vac or 240Vac depending on country).
Rbulb is the resistance across the bulb or bulbs.
Rdimmer is the resistance across the dimmer.

The dimmer is a solid-state electronic circuit, so it has a very high effective resistance -- 10s of megohms is not unreasonable.  Ditto for the control circuitry in the CFL.  An incandescent bulb is a simple piece of resistive wire; a 60 W / 120 V bulb will have a resistance of 240 ohms.

Now, suppose the dimmer has a resistance of 50 MOhms and the CFL has a resistance of 10 MOhms; plugging the numbers into the equation above gives you 20 V across the bulb.  OTOH, the voltage across a 60 W incandescent bulb will be about 600 microVolts, nowhere near enough to make the bulb glow.

If you have two bulbs in the light fixture, the resistance, R, of the two in parallel is given by:

R = R1*R2/(R1 + R2)

So if you have a CFL and an incandescent installed, the effective resistance is going to be very close to that of the incandescent alone:

R = 10,000,000 * 240 / (10,000,000 + 240) = 239.99 Ohms

Again, not enough to turn on either bulb.

With two incandescent bulbs, the effective resistance is half that of a single incandescent, so you have half the voltage across them.

The flickering you see with two CFLs is because the light you see is basically a high-voltage spark through the tube.  The CFL contains circuitry to amplify the incoming voltage up to the point where the spark can occur.  Under normal circumstances, the input voltage is enough to cause this spark 100 or 120 times per second (depending on mains frequency), which is far too frequent for the human eye to notice.  With the reduced input voltage, it takes longer to reach the required voltage, so you notice the flicker.  No two bulbs will be exactly identical, so they'll flicker at different rates and take different times to recover between discharges.


Is there a benefit to painting concrete floors?

It's a cosmetic finish that can be removed without consequence. Makes a lot more sense to pretty up concrete with something other than paint if longevity is a concern. Acid stain, sheet vinyl, engineered hardwood, tile, stone…


Adding dimmers to two LED circuits, which have dimmable bulbs - each circuit has three switches

What you have is two three-way switches with a four-way in the middle. What you need to do here, for each switch set, is

Identify which are your three-ways (one black + 2 brass screws), and which is your four-way (four brass screws). Put the four-way back together, as you're not going to mess with it.
Pick which of the three-way switches you want to replace with a dimmer. It doesn't matter which one you pick
Wire your dimmer up to the three-way, making sure to note which wire was connected to the black screw

Your dimmer will work with the existing switches without any other changes but you can generally only have one dimmer per circuit (unless you buy something specialized)


Can anyone recommend colored 100% silicone caulk for use in a shower?

My take; the newer siliconized calks are excellent products.  I think you will be impressed with their performance. Regarding the above selection, I wouldn't let the 'commercial' labeling impede your choice.  This product will also work.


How can I filter iron out of kiddie pool water?

I have this exact same problem. The only option I have found is to use a chemical additive to precipitate out the the iron and then do lots of filter cartridge changes. Luckily, the cartridges don't seem to be deteriorated by the orange stuff, and you can just swap two of them every 12 hours and wash them off with the garden hose. If you have a full size filter, you will just need to do a backwash every day or two.

It also helps to get in the pool and stir up all the precipitate off the bottom so that it can be captured by the filter...there's nothing in there that will harm you, it's just orange.


Which M3 screw / bolt material can be used in dishwasher?

You want stainless steel

That should be readily available in any hardware store that sells metric.  Stainless + metric both can be a little bit specialty, so you need that community hardware store that's been around for 100 years, or McMaster-Carr or equivalent in your territory.


pilot light does not stay on on gas burner after vacation

Is the flame hitting the Thermocouple (little pipe to the right of the burner)? This is your safety if it is not hitting that the gas will turn off. These do go bad also and are not very expensive or difficult to change out. After long periods of  not being used I have had to light and hold the pilot then quickly turn on with the controls turned to hot and let the burner run for a few minutes then the system ran OK. This was on a tank less water heater in my shop but similar gas safety (thermocouple). I have also replaced a few TC's only ~$10.


Can I cover a high efficiency HVAC vent?

The appliance typically comes with a screen, that should be installed in the end of the exhaust pipe. The screens are commonly made from Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC), or Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), but could be any heat and corrosion resistant material.

I'm not sure you'd be able to pick one of these up at the local home center or hardware store, but you could always check.  Through a quick google search, I was able to locate a product that should fit your needs...

Diamond Vent Screens

  Our patent-pending Diamond Vent Screens are specially designed from robust, long lasting ABS plastic to let these varmints know homeowners aren’t interested in having them over for a visit. Designed with furnace and water heater exhaust pipes in mind, our screens keep birds, squirrels, chipmunks where they belong – outside.

I've never used, and don't recommend, or endorse this specific product. It's simply the first product I came across when searching.

A screen like this will prevent birds, leaves, and rodents from entering (or leaving if they already live in the pipe/furnace). Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do to prevent insects. Anything that would block small things like insects, would also restrict the air flow and cause more problems than it solves.


Does this thermostat/furnace wiring make sense?

Many thermostats can figure it out on their own these days

Modern "smart" thermostats such as Nests and ecobees have electronics inside them that figures out if they're being powered from Rh, Rc, or both, and handles the situation accordingly (usually giving preference to Rc if power is present both places), which means that they don't need a Rh-Rc jumper.

If your new 'stat does need the jumper, it will come with it

If your new thermostat isn't that smart (i.e. needs a Rh/Rc jumper), it will come with one, similar to the one on your current thermostat.  This jumper is needed because the thermostat doesn't have the electronics to figure out which terminal to draw power from on its own, and some situations (such as boilers, wall furnaces, and the likes) require the thermostat to keep the heating side power (Rh/W) rigorously separated from the cooling side power (Rc/G/Y).


Drilling in the wall, encountered metal too soon

Use a magnet to identify the outline of the metal.

It could easily be a nail plate:

The purpose of which is to protect wires and pipes, from you.


What should I do with the extra grounding wire in my ceiling fan box?

The bare copper wire and any green insulated wires are meant to be connected together, making it a "party of three" as you stated in your question. That said there is another consideration to take into account as well. These safety ground wires are also meant to be connected to a common ground point of the electrical box as well.

If one of these wires (green or bare copper) coming out of your box already attaches to a safety ground point in the box then you have no more to do than the "party of three" connections.

If neither of these two wires are connected to the electrical box safety ground then it will be necessary to add an additional pigtail green or bare copper wire to the box safety ground and join it with the other three making a "party of four" connection.


Need 12' ladder on second floor but staircase is too tight

I'd look at renting a tall-ish scaffold set - something like:

When I'm standing that far off the floor in the middle of a room and wanting to be able to use both of my hands (as I would do when replacing a ceiling fan), I'd like a wide, firm base to stand on.
As long as you can get the individual pieces into the room you want to use it, you assemble it there.


Why is my shower head pipe very loose when the company installed a new tub and surround?

This is a picture of one example of a rough shower plumbing install:

As you can see, at the top there is a cross brace, and there is a 90 degree angle that's been mounted into that brace secured, preferably with screws but possibly with nails.
My guess?  Your shower head was braced with nails, some idiot hit your shower head pipe pretty hard and pulled the nails loose, and the sound you heard was one of the nails falling out.
It's not serious - as long as you don't put any weight on the shower head - and the fix will involve opening up the walls.  Technically you can fix it from behind, so you won't have to destroy tile in the process, but that's a harder way to do it.  Basically you have to pull the wall behind the shower, cut the pipe to the shower head, pull the brace, re-secure the shower head, replace the brace, and then fix the feed to the shower head w/ a connector.


How to remove harden screws and try preserve the two metals that the screw bind together

There is a product called an 'Ezy-out' (or some variation) and other brands of similar products which are basically a reverse thread, tapered, coarse pitch tap or drill-bit. You can use these by hand or in a drill - in reverse-, once it bites into the screw it will begin driving itself in further or unscrewing the stuck screw.

What size and material is the stuck screw?

Liverally coating the screw in a penetrating lubricant like WD-40, applying heat to the screw to make it expand or tapping it with a hammer while trying to remove it will all help to some dregree.


Do I need more than just Drylok to insulate concrete basement walls before framing out some walls?

The right way to do it is to have the outside entrenched and have any cracks patched with hydraulic concrete, drylock and delta board, as well as having new weeping tile put in below the footings.  Unfortunately, this will cost you about $100 - $150 a linear foot.

Then I'd go with closed cell spray foam on the inside.  Metal studs are fine in this case, as you're going to stud out an inch or two away from the wall so they can spray in behind.  (Note: wiring and plumbing go in before the foam.)

Like I said, this is a very expensive process, but it will be done right, and it will last for a very long time.


Yes you do need a vapor barrier. Replace the sheetrock with cement board and use Redgard waterproofer over cement board following instructions. Install tile and seal grout.


Possible to have wire mesh fencing plus a couple live wires for wild animals?

There are standard electric fence insulators for T-posts.

Some only go on one side of the post - others have more options.

If you cannot get adequate spacing from the T-posts to prevent shorting, or cannot find insulators that fit with the mesh, you can run a separate electric fence a short distance outside the mesh, on T-posts or on fiberglass posts. With a tightly tensioned mesh and electric fence wire/string/tape little spacing is needed - but if the current mesh fence is loose, it's probably going to be easier to run a second fence, which can generally get away with fewer posts.

Electric fences in the woods require regular inspections to be effective. Branches and trees fall on them and short them out, break them, or hold them to the ground.


I'd seriously consider a Byōbu, more commonly known as a "Japanese folding screen wall". Something like this:
The first decent example picture I found happened to be from etsy
You don't have to purchase one (finding one for your 9-foot ceilings may be difficult). However the "folding" aspect - i.e. the zig-zag footprint will allow it to stand on its own.
You can cover the "panels" with drywall, fabric, paneling, or whatever suits your mood. The advantage is that you don't have to attach it to the floor or ceiling and, therefore, won't cause damage to the rental that will need to be repaired before you move out or risk losing your damage deposit.
Since you're willing to spend the money on lumber & drywall and dispose of it when you move out, there won't be any significant additional "disposable" cost in building the wall this way instead.


Larry, a white wire can be used as a hot and if so is supposed to be marked with black tape or otherwise marked black. You are calling it a neutral, but, if I understand your explanation, when you connect it to true neutrals and turn on the breaker it immediately trips. This means it is a hot.

Stop connecting it to neutrals. The black marked white must be feeding something. This is what I think, but I am not an experienced electrician and have never worked on anything but my own housen and it is wired in NM. Unless someone here can help you, I fully agree that it is time for you to call an electrician.

The only thing in my limited knowledge that I can imagine is that this black marked white is or was connected to a switch. This switch controlled a receptacle or half of the duplex receptacle. If the latter, the tab would have been broken and the other half powered directly. Do you have a switch near this box which seemingly doesn't do anything? Is it on? Even if the switch is off it may have been disconnected and the two wires connected together and the switch replaced. This would be contrary to code, but could have been done.

Does everything work if you just cap this black marked white wire? If so, just leave it capped and accept that you have an abandoned wire in the wall. If my suggestion is right, then one of the black wires goes to the same switch and it could also be disconnected with no loss of function.


Basement framing and insulation question

I'm no expert but sharing what I am doing. Using rigid foam r13 along studs exterior wall which is concrete. I used drylok extreme paint to water proof the porous concrete in my basement. It typically brings moisture in slowly but this should deter it. The 2" foam will act as my moisture and vapor barrier as well. The basement is typically controlled and should maintain fair temperatures. I am using drywall right on top with a 1.5" space between foam and drywall for breathing.


What's this ceiling mounting system called?

Thank you for the clarification. I wasn't sure if the "equipment" was additional to the access points or if the access points were the equipment. Being just very lightweight access points, the off-the-shelf most everywhere anchoring solutions are quite broad. I'll just present a few options to help you visualize & build upon.

If you'd prefer a single attack & homogeneous look & procedure in only using the ceiling's channels, since they're everywhere. Then, I'd suggest Little L-Brackets Masonry Screwed or Masonry Bolted into the channels with a drilled hole. Due to the small amount of weight we're talking the L-Bracket's one side can be cut or slit to slip in your Loop Cable.

Drilling the holes too big or sloppy can be remedied by bigger Masonry Screws or going to the longer & drill deeper Sleeve Anchor pictured on the far right, these combinations would very closely match the method used for the Unistrut's anchoring.

The I-Beam anchors can be as simple as a Metal Rod bent around the I-Beam Ledges. Or, a Picture Frame Wire (possible scraps from your Loop Cables) tensioned between 2 of the L-brackets above, you'd just close the "L" down with pliers to a "V". Or, a variation of the below concepts.

The Unistrut's c-bar usage can of course be their nut option. Or, just a simple Plastic or Metal Wire Tie (always trim that tail off) or more Picture Hanging Wire (possible scraps from your Loop Cables) or a Bolt, Nut & Washer assembly.

But, I think those options will get it done in overly securing your Loop Hangers. If this is more than a single in-house installation you might invest in a system like this for future installations.


What size fasteners should I use to mount fence bases to concrete?

A steel plate like you describe will presumably have some type of post or support attached to it. That attachment will be able to place a whole bunch of torque on the plate and the last thing you want is for the plate to start pulling loose when some chincey and cheap anchor screw starts to pull out of the concrete.

I would recommend the larger size if you are indeed going to be using the direct screw in type of concrete anchor. Be aware that the screw in concrete anchor does require an accurate hole diameter and deeper penetration into the concrete and larger diameter lead to better holding power. Follow instructions carefully on how this type of anchor is installed.

If you have a situation where:

You have a hard time drilling holes into concrete and keeping the hole diameter from getting enlarged too much.
You do not need to be close to the edge of the concrete.

...then you may want to consider some quality expansion type anchors instead. Good ones will set you back cost wise even more than the larger screw in anchors that you linked to.


The kind or brand of primer does not matter much.  Most products perform equally well or equally poor.  The biggest payoff is in the prep-work.  Even the "best" primer cannot adhere well to a wall that is covered with sanding dust or loose texture.  Wipe and vacuum everything.  Otherwise your nicely painted work might easily peel off with just the tip of your thumb.

If you have visited the paint section recently, you have probably seen that the price of primer and other paint products vary a lot.  Usually that's just marketing at work.  The exception however is Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) content.  These are the things that the State of California has found to cause harmful health effects.  So-called "low" VOC products have less than 50 g/L, whereas "Green" products typically have zero.

Unless you are painting  specialized work (nautical, plastics, automotive), or if you have a particular health concern (pregnant mothers), there is really no need to go with anything other than the cheap stuff.


add a temp gauge or "dimmer" to cabinet fan

They make much quieter fans for this. There are many how-to guides out there on how to do entertainment center exhaust fan systems. You can google Entertainment center exhaust fan and see some pretty slick designs. There were a couple that were 'automated'

If you are using 120v you could always get a Attic Fan Thermostat and connect it inline with the Fan Power. something like this unit. It is settable from 50 degrees to 120 Degrees. Or something like this if you want it to look nice outside of the cabinet.


How to plan for the future when installing a new roof?

The three things that I ask people to consider when they're replacing a roof is if they're in a wind or hail damage region, and if they're in a region with high solar gain (such as Texas) or an area prone to ice damming (such as New England or the upper midwest.)

If you're in an area that is prone to wind or hail damage (thunderstorms or hurricanes), you might want to look into a more resilient form of roofing material. Stone-coated steel shingles (which look just like standard asphalt shingles) are a great product that will resist most forms of damage that can be dished out. Your insurance may give you a discount on them because they have a longer lifetime.

If you're in a high solar gain area, look into some of the energy-star rated shingles. They again look just like stone coated asphalt shingles, but they'll help keep your attic cool in the summertime.

If you're in an area that gets a decent amount of snow, make sure that they install an ice & water barrier around any roof penetrations (like skylights or places where they replace a vent) and along the edge of the roof where you could develop ice damming problems. This material is a sticky membrane that self-sticks to the roof deck and basically keeps water from seeping through at all. Common brand name for this product are "Grace Ice & Water Shield" ... I also personally use it in roof valleys, gable crotches, and several other places where water tends to get blown up inside something and you really don't want it to soak through.

You definitely want to get your insulation up to the max, but that's something that you can do at any time using blown-in insulation. If you are replacing roof decking and have it open, you should make sure that you have plenty of soffit vents and that your soffit vents are baffled properly. (I like the Berger Accuvent, personally...)

You want to make sure that any damaged or rusted flashing is replaced, and that tar paper is replaced. Look into what kind of tar paper they're using (heavier the weight, the better...), because that's actually your roof. Make sure you know what kind of valleys you're getting. For standard asphalt shingles, I prefer woven valleys, but they're harder to do and therefore are more expensive.


Installing an electric toe kick heater "old work"-style

I suggest you install a junction box in the wall, and hardwire the appropriate gauge wire through the cabinet bottom, to your heater.

The cabinet is made of wood, you can drill through obstacles to thread your wires.

You need to leave enough slack so you can easily pull the heater for maintenance and cleaning. I recommend a metal flex pigtail with individual wires. On a GFCI circuit.

Which amperage is your heater? Internal thermostat or wall mounted switch/thermostat?


Why do my stove elements heat on high regardless of the knob setting?

If the elements come on and get hot, they are fine.  There is no circuitry or "smarts" to the element.  It's basically just a thick wire that gets hot.

The knobs in the stove connect to controls that set the amount of current that flows through the elements.  If they only go on high and can't be adjusted there is a problem inside the stove that's probably beyond the scope of this answer (so many different types of stoves and several things that can go wrong with each).


What should I do about the floor for a outside metal shed / ventilation

The plastic is good to prevent growth from taking over the shed floor. You're now paying the price for not taking the time to do proper ground prep. This is going to be some additional work, but think about adding more sand to the top of the plastic, level it and put down some of those 16" x 16" concrete pavers. Those are easy to keep level and any water dripping down for any reason would fall into the cracks of the pavers and be absorbed by the sand. Just a thought.


Yes, if they were grouped like this, then it's certainly the case that the other cable is onward to the other light.  That's a perfectly reasonable way to do it.
The cable insulation  has serious thermal damage.  I would get some red and white heat-shrink tubing of appropriate size, slide them over the wires and shrink them down.  A long time ago, old Edison style light bulbs were used and they made a LOT of heat.  Sometimes people even used bigger bulbs than the fixture was rated for, and that caused excessive damage.
I do not like what looks like a weird lumpy splice buried in electrical tape.
Do not cut the wires shorter than they are; try to save the insulation. Wires need to be at least 6" long from the base of the box, and stick at least 3" beyond the ceiling.
Since the whites were together, they are almost certainly neutral.  The other black wires would be switched-hot.  I like to mark switched-hot wires with red color, but it's best to mark a wire the same on bot hends.
No.  Those wires are not meant to go down the little pipe.  The lamp fixture's wires are meant to come up the little pipe.  If that is not possible, then you'll need to acquire some wires capable of the task, such as #16 lamp cord (containing 2 conductors or some #14 stranded THHN.
Given the deteriorated condition of the insulation, I would not energize this.


Installing a sill plate on a crawlspace for a manufactured home. Does it matter if I use spf white wood or treated?

For wood in contact with masonry or concrete, the Code requires the use of an approved species and grade of wood such as decay resistant heartwood of Redwood, Black Locust, or Cedar or pressure treated in accordance with AWPA (See ICC R319.1) in areas subject to decay damage according to Table R301.2(1).
In the U.S., all but the very very most southern portion of the continental U.S. and Hawaii show as “severe” or “moderate”. The remainder shows as “negligible”. I’d consult with your local Building Department if your within that area.
The Code also allows the use of untreated lumber if separated by an approved moisture barrier. (Technically I guess the wood is not “in contact” with masonry or concrete with a moisture barrier.)


Reinforcing a shelf supported only by pins

Cleats.

Well, If I didn't simply add up what this expletive redacted liquor cabinet just cost me (not counting husky-containment and mopping time) and shoot it into the sun to be wholly replaced with a decently made hunk of furniture, which I'd be fairly inclined to do after what you just went through.

I would glue and screw 1x2 wooden cleats (non-adjustable) to the sidewalls where you want the shelves to be. Depending how flimsy the shelves themselves are, I might also put a couple long 1x2 on the bottom of each shelf for reinforcement.

Alternatively, look for an adjustable steel wire rack shelf unit that fits in the cabinet - there being doors, you don't have to look at it except when getting bottles out.

On the positive side, at least the marble-topped table wasn't a fishtank ;-)


Hanging paintable wallpaper over paneling?

I have successfully done this with rental units. I may have gone overboard but this is what I did. Skimmed the grooves with DuraBond, scuffed the panels with a polesander while feathering the edges of the joint compound. Applied a coat of primer on the panels and joint compound. Read the directions for the wallpaper paste and if they recommend the use of "sizing" (basically a primer for the paste to improve adhesion) use it. Hang the wallpaper, when dry apply primer to the paper (two coats on the seams) the apply the color coat.


How should I insulate my concrete ceiling in a safe room under a concrete porch?

Given it's 10 feet tall a dropped ceiling and insulation batts would be the "most obvious" approach (to me) if you deal with the leaks from above by sealing them above. Come down to 8 feet with a grid and place batts on top of the panels.
If you let it leak, then you need to come up with a way to redirect the leaking before you hit the insulation, or use insulation that doesn't care (and costs more.) Something like a set of sloped 2x4 "rafters" to support a piece of plastic attached at the high side and directed into a gutter on the low side, then hang ceiling below them and insulate between.
If the concrete walls to the porch floor are partially above-grade and uninsulated inside or out, then they are also contributing to the cold, since concrete is a terrible insulator, at roughly R1 for 15 inch thickness. Concrete below grade transitions to seeing less extreme temperatures on the outside, but still generally below "comfortable" for people for much time.


How can I add wall panels to file cabinet drawers?

Ten years ago, I temporarily took some old corrugated cardboard from a cardboard box and cut it to fit with a fold over the top rail. It is still there doing the job.

different Ikea product, same problem

If you have access to a pair of scissors, an old cardboard box and maybe some adhesive tape (optional) - you too can be the envy of your neighbours and friends.


I suggest following a set of plans.

https://www.construct101.com/porch-swing-stand-plan/


Should concrete footers be separated from a concrete slab?

I am not going to comment on the sonotube piers, since I don't know where the project is located, and the loadings the structure is subjected to. But I do want you to make sure the bottom is set below the local frost depth, and the soil bearing is adequate with applicable safety factor.
The next important thing is the subgrade preparation. The subgrade shall have a layer of well-graded, compacted, coarse gravelly material. In humid and wet locations, a layer of sand can be added to form the bedding for the vapor barrier, or retarder.
Now to the slab. I suggest the second approach with a 6" thick slab. The first approach is undesirable because it is prone to having an uneven settlement problem, as the piers and the slab will settle at a different rate. The third approach is simple and cheap but the most problematic. Your structure will experience horizontal force from the wind, which can cause lateral movement of the unsupported slab, and tilting due to the overturning effect. The remedy will be costly.
For strength and durability, I suggest the piers and the slab shall be reinforced. Also, unless you want to use post-installed anchors to fasten the columns, don't forget to set the anchor bolts securely before pouring the concrete.
Your project involves quite a few engineering uncertainties - loadings (dead, live, seismic, and environmental loads), soil strength and capacity (that affects pier sizing and length), and the building structure; also the permitting requirement. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to consult with a structural engineer, so you won't have any regret later. Good luck.
Another approach you may consider is to have a slab-on-grade with turndowns at the perimeter. But it may not be cheaper than the pier approach though.


How can I repair a radiator bleed valve that fell out?

Yes, that is snapped off. You're OK until you need to bleed again. Then you will need to gain enough access to drill a small hole into the broken screw. Once a screw extractor is inserted into the hole, the rest of the screw should come out and you can place a new vent screw in it's place. These screws do not need to be super tight, firmly snugged should do it. At least now you know how much is too much.


A combination oven/cooktop will have separate ignition methods for the burners (cooktop) and the oven.

The burners usually have a simple spark ignition. If your cooktop "clicks" when you turn on a burner, that is the spark ignition, which is totally normal.

The oven may use spark ignition but will often use a a glow bar. If the insulation is wearing out (can happen over time in the heat of an oven) or there is a loose connection, then there may be leakage to ground in the oven igniter/glow bar, tripping the GFCI.

The key is that the oven & cooktop are independent. This is different from the old days where a single pilot light would be used to ignite both the cooktop and the oven. Modern ovens don't use pilot lights because they burn gas - and your money - all the time.

If you can find instructions online for your specific oven, you may be able to remove the igniter/glow bar/etc. and replace it. The catch is that damage may not be obvious, and it is also possible the problem is in the controls and not the igniter or glow bar. But the problem is pretty definitely somewhere in the oven.


Load bearing capacity of Spur Steel-lok shelf standards with MDF shelves

Pressed wood shelves should never span more than 32". Beyond that even their own weight will result in unsightly sag.

As for maximum load, you'll probably be unhappy with sag long before they collapse. For anything heaver than a row of paperback books, go every 16".


Should I sealcoat new (few months) asphalt before winter?

In my experience, new asphalt in a residential application doesn't begin to show surface degradation for at least a few years. By that time, a coat that you apply now will need to be redone anyway.

I'd wait two years. If it still looks brand new, wait two more. There's something to be said for preventative care, but only if it actually extends the life of the product.


How to replace soldered valve with push in connect?

Well since you want to use a shark bite you may not like my solution.
I would cut both sides make a U shape. This is how I would sweat in a new valve on the left with a standard sleeve on right , you could do it with shark bites but this is how some plumbers would do it without kinking the copper.
Measure everything so when you push them together they both slip on.
Using copper sweat fittings they can be adjusted before sweating.


Installing timer switch with jumper wire into possibly old wiring

You got the wrong switch.

A spring wound timer switch, like the GE unit you're taking out, is you-powered.  It doesn't need energy from another source to do what it does. Like any passive switch, it is simply a gate between "always-hot" and "switched-hot".

However, your push button timer switch needs power to do its little thing.  And it needs power at all times. In electricity, you get power between hot and neutral.

So the switch needs neutral.  Your switch is on a switch loop, and historically they never provided neutral on switch loops. Now they're starting to do it... but if you don't have neutral, you can't use this switch.


Should wood be treated or sealed before tiling?

The wood should be pressure-treated or naturally rot-resistant.

Sealing the surface may reduce warpage, but will have limited effect on long-term rot issues.


Why would there be an additional cable in double gang box for 2 light switches?

Those diagrams on the Internet (especially the annoyingly obsolete ones from that site) assume you only have one source cable.

In reality, you often have two source cables, with their blacks going to the same place, their whites going to the same place, and their grounds going to the same place.

And if you want to get technical, they aren't actually two source cables; one is really source and the other one is onward power to other points of use.   However, we don't need to care which particular one is source vs onward, as it will be wired exactly the same either way.

I have seen boxes used as splices for 3-4 "source/onward" cables, and that is fine too (provided the box is not overfilled).

The only time we care about source vs onward is when we a) are installing a GFCI device, and b) we have a knowing, affirmative plan to use the GFCI to protect the onward part of the circuit.

On the ground wires, the applicable Code is NEC 110.3(B), which says you must install according to the labeling and instructions. If it says to ground it, ground it.  Typically you splice all grounds to each other and to any metal boxes, however switches (not receptacles) can take their grounds via the mounting screws if the box is metal.

(note that the "splice em all together" rule does not apply to neutrals.)


How Do I Take This Old P Trap Off Cast Iron T?

I'm coming in a little late to help the OP, but wanted to add some clarification in case anyone else runs into this situation. I used the procedure outlined below dozens of times when I was a repair plumber in the 80's.
The trap arm going to the wall is 1 1/2" OD tubular drawn brass (usually chrome plated). It's going into a cast iron "sanitary tee" in the wall, with an inlet that has 1 1/2" female IPS (iron pipe size) threads. The original connection was made with a so-called Marvel Adapter, which is a brass ring with 1 1/2" IPS male threads on the outside, and a smooth 1 1/2 ID inner surface that was soldered to the tubular brass trap arm. It does tend to look like some kind of leaded joint because all that's visible is the edge of the ring/adapter and the excess solder from when it was sweated on.
To remove it, first break out the old trap arm (as the OP said he accidentally did) - often a few hammer blows is all it takes, but sometimes you need to cut it off flush with a Sawzall or hacksaw. The OP's 3rd picture above shows it in this state.
Next, insert your Sawzall blade (with fine metal-cutting teeth) or the end of a hacksaw blade into the opening, preferably near the top, and make a small cut going outward. You'll be cutting through the relatively soft brass, but you should stop cutting when the sound and feel changes once the blade starts to hit the cast iron threads. Now move your saw blade over about 1/2" and make a second cut just like the first one. Then use a flat-bladed screwdriver or small chisel and tap out the 1/2" section of the brass ring you just cut. Then use the same tool to drive the rest of the ring loose - drive the screwdriver tip under one end of the remaining ring until it bends inward sufficiently far that you can grip it with a pair of pliers. Then you should be able to easily un-thread it the rest of the way out.
Now you'll have some nicely intact threads in the cast iron tee you can use. I like to use an old 1 1/2" galvanized nipple with a few axial grooves cut through the threads as a "thread-chaser" to clean out as much old rust and gunk out as I can - the first 3 or 4 threads that were in contact with the brass ring should be fine but it's a good idea to try to clean up the deeper threads too.
Now you should be able to thread an ABS or PVC male adapter into the cast iron threads (using some Rectorseal #5 thread sealant or equivalent). If you can't get a good "bite" with the plastic male adapter, you can thread a short galvanized nipple in there instead, then thread a plastic female adapter onto that. Glue in whatever length of plastic (ABS/PVC) pipe you need, and then a regular compression-ring trap adapter or whatever else you need to connect your trap.
Here's what that Marvel Adapter looks like new. These were real common 50+ years ago:
https://www.ferguson.com/product/sioux-chief-marvel-brass-marvel-thread-adapter-ring-s274/_/A-ProdFamily-216152


How would I connect multiple ground wires in this case (replacing ceiling pendant lights)?

Yes, those three loose ends would be connected. That creates continuity to all involved circuits and fixtures. You really can't goof up grounds if everything is linked in a proper manner.

Green wire from the pendant
Bare wire from the mounting bracket
Bare wire from the supply cable


How to run electrical wires in an exterior wall with a low-pitched roof?

I've run into this often and have become very successful at getting into corners of the attic I never thought I'd be able to. Sometimes you have to flat crawl on the joists.
What has also worked is cutting out a square in the wall inside the room at the ceiling height and using that as a pull station. You will probably have to drill through a sill plate but then shove the wire up into  the attic, lots of it. Then go into the attic with your snake or a 10' piece of EMT with a 90 degree bend at the end and snag the wire and pull it toward you. Feed more from the inside  room or pull out the slack. Use the same hole in the wall to drop the wire down to the switch location. When finished, repair the drywall using the piece you cut out. At times, you might have to cut the square into the ceiling too.


Closing the main valve could have dislodged some rust / scale that is now stuck in the cold water valve. Since your hot is running ok turn the water off again and pull the valve apart.
You may have to slightly turn the water back on to fully flush the line out. Reassemble and see if you have full flow again.
Did you purge the air using the cold valves? this is when the gunk gets pushed into the valves.


How to extend wiring for extra high current sockets/appliances in Utility room

Qu 1: What is the best way to extend the existing double socket to add 3 extra sockets.

You want to increase the total load from 15A to >27A.

You probably don't want the breaker tripping if you, for example, run the washer and dryer at the same time.

If the existing circuit is really a radial circuit with a dedicated breaker in the CU you will need to check

The breaker rating
The wire diameter.

If the wire diameter is small, you cannot increase the breaker rating without first replacing the wiring with a suitably sized new circuit. Under UK regs I believe you should get an electrician to do this work.

  I can't use a spur from existing socket as this will pull too much current.

It depends what you plug in. The breaker should protect the circuit.

  It sounds better to continue this as a ring main rather than a radial circuit.

Ring mains are typically 32A but I don't see creating a ring main as easier than upgrading a radial circuit.

  Using a double socket for washer/dryer isn't great as they don't deal well with 20A+.

So long as the circuit is properly constructed, you should be fine. I certainly run those two appliances from a double socket.

  Qu 2: Can I just connect the 3 x 13A switches in parallel from the existing wires coming from the consumer unit?

You should draw a diagram of your intended circuit. You don't wire switches in parallel. I guess you mean something different but you need to be clear.

You may be over-complicating things here. You can use normal switched sockets (even though inaccessible with appliances in place) and when necessary, just isolate the whole circuit using the switch on the breaker.

  Qu 3: I presume if I want a normal double plug/switch (above the worktop), I can add this in parallel as well.

Yes.

  Qu 4: Presume makes these changes will need me to get an electrician to certify it (even if I do the work myself)

As I understand part P, You can extend an existing circuit but you need an electrician to certify it if you create a new circuit. It might be no cheaper than paying an electrician to do the work themselves.


Log homes are designed to distribute the weight of the house fairly evenly around the perimeter and with the logs being about 16” wide it could easily support about 3,500 lbs. per linear foot, depending on soil conditions in your area.

However, the reason footings (or as @isherwood indicated, thickened slabs at edges) are used is 1) to be installed below frost lines, which could be from 12” down to 48” below ground level, depending where you live, 2) help span across soft spots in the soil, and 3) removes loose topsoil which is easily compressed. Your slab does not do any of those.

In addition, if you have any posts in the middle of your house, that is a “concentrated “ load and will require an extra large footing with extra reinforcement.  A 6” slab will fail, even with rebar installed, as you indicated.


What is this metal rail in the basement ceiling

This is a load-bearing I-beam. This beam is holding up your house, so as long as it's well secured, you should be able to add an extra 80 lbs to it. They make mounting brackets specifically for hanging heavy bags onto these: http://amzn.to/2iXojjG


Electrical help: wired new Z-wave wall switches (fan and lighting), old switches were jumpered and I don't understand the reason

If your gang-box is fed from two separate radial circuits, my understanding is that the neutrals should not be combined but should be kept separate.

You don't want the possibility that the current from two 20A hots can return via one 20A neutral when there is a fault in the other neutral.
You don't want a path by which a circuit can become energised even when the breaker for that circuit is off.
You don't want to trip a future GFCI (or equivalent) installed upstream.


The common tool to do this is a level. One that is 4 feet long is better because it can check the floor over a wider area for flatness and level. You really only need to check the area where you intend to set the book shelf and not the whole room.

A level like this would not be considered an advanced tool as they are rather simple devices. If you find the longer sized levels too expensive you can instead find cheap short ones that you can use on the top edge of a 4 foot long, straight and even pine board.

If you want to avoid buying any tool at all you could consider the idea to use pine board like the above example but substitute the cheap level with a Smart Phone running an app that simulates the bubble style level. For example there are many apps like this in the Google Play store for Android phones. (Similar apps on iPhone at the iTunes store site).

The smart phone apps require you to calibrate your phone on a known level surface. Some folks may consider this idea a gimmick but it may be just what you need for a quick and simple check. The quality and repeatability of the cell phone type of app can vary from app to app and be affected by the quality of sensors in the phone. So if you go this direction I encourage you to download three or four of the free apps and find the one that best suits your needs.


I am assuming you have quite a divot that needs some filling.  I recommend using lightweight Spackle. It is very easy to apply, and you can smooth it with fine sandpaper and a damp sponge about 15 mins after you apply it and paint it within an hour.


Connecting PVC to a 4.5 inch ID cast iron hub

There seems to be a 3/16" thick layer of crud on the inside surface of the hub. Scrape that out and then try the 4" "donut"


I am not absolutely sure, but I think that model may use a mechanical limit switch that is mounted on the trolley rail. The upper and lower limit switches are mounted on  brackets that are adjustable on the rail to fine tune the travel of the door. It is not uncommon for these brackets to get loose and move. If this switch moves too far, then your door will strike the floor or top end of travel and stop, but the switch will not activate stopping the motor. Result is motor continues to run, but chain will not move, so there goes your gear drives. Check the location of these limit switches, test the switches themselves to assure they are working. (Turn off power, unplug and test switch with an OHM meter.)


As a beginner woodworker, should I buy a table saw or a band saw?

It depends on what you're cutting, why you're cutting it, and what type of cuts you're making.
Long Straight Cuts
When it comes to long straight cuts, a table saw is the best in the business.  Set the fence, turn it on, and it'll cut the same width pieces forever. With a band saw (or most other saws), you'll be looking at using some type of jig for long straight cuts.  Though even with a jig, you can end up with a bit of wobble in the cut since the blade may be a bit flexible.
Scrolling Cuts
If you're scrolling, you're not using a table saw. A band saw is going to allow you to make tighter radius curves, and do more accurate scrolling work.
Depth of Cut
In some cases you'll not want to cut clean through a board. Maybe you're cutting a dado, a groove, a tongue, etc. In these cases, the height adjustable blade on a table saw can be quite handy. You're not making these cuts on a band saw, though you could always use a router.
Beveling
Some table saws also allow you to tilt the blade, which allows you to make long straight bevel cuts.  You can do bevel cuts on a band saw, but you're going to have to tilt the work piece instead of the saw blade.
Materials
If you're working with more than just wood, a band saw will be your friend.  You'll be able to cut metal, wood, plastics, and even meat, simply by installing an appropriate blade.  A table saw is simply not going to offer the same versatility.
Kerf
Kerf, is the amount of material removed by the saw blade. Since a band saws blades are thinner, they'll have a smaller kerf than a table saw.  Whether that's a pro or con is up to you, but there you go.
Noise
In almost all cases, a band saw is going to be much quieter than a table saw.
Safety
Some people feel safer around a band saw. Maybe because it's quieter, or doesn't look as ominous. I'm not sure what the reason, that's just how it is.  Don't be fooled, a band saw will take your finger off just the same as a table saw.

In the end, it depends what types of cuts you'll be making most, what materials you'll be using, and your own personal preference.  I say, get both!


Extending Length of Air Conditioning Drain Pipe

the first picture appears to be dish or clothes washer drain hoses. But to answer your questions: if the hoses are pliable or soft enough any short length of (PVC?) pipe similar to the inside diameter of the hose should suffice as a coupler to join two sections. Secure with hose clamps. Regarding splicing into an irrigation system; if it is not under pressure it might work correctly (or with a check valve installed). Most irrigation systems do function using water from a pressurized line although it is usually reduced by a valve.


How do I replace this smart switch to this exisiting light switch

what seem to have installed is a manual dimmer then one end of a 2-way switching setup,  the cable with red and white carries the selection made at this switch to the other light switch. or possibly it receives the selection from the other switch.

The three terminals on that switch have embossed labels, but the colour rings carry the same message.

black is neutral
red is active
white is the output to the lamp.

as for wiring this end those two blacks go in the black hole (labeled N for neutral)
the red from the 3-wire cable goes to red (labeled A for active) and the red from the red-white cable goes to white. (labeled A1) use the joiner taken from the neutral wires to join cap the end of the white wire.

At the other end  the red-white wires will go to a switch and there'll be another red witre, join those two red wires and put another cap on the white wire. fit a blind face plate attache the remote control.

once you figure out when end of that setup the power comes in from that goes to the red,  switch the switch on and off, the wire that stays live all the time is the input, it goes to red.

the one that goes live when the light is on that goes to white.

the other one gets a cap, and the two neutrals can go in the black hole.

the other switches for this light on this circuit will have to be disabled that means removing them and joining the wires permanently.

or maybe you should get a smart switch that has a wired remote.


Where can I find load ratings for two-by lumber laid flat?

The reason you can't find tabulated information on dimension lumbar laid flat (usually called "weak axis bending") is because the strength is so small that there is virtually no structural application. The only time you would use 2x lumber like that is something like flooring where the boards are almost continuously supported and are carrying very little weight.

However if you want to get a sense of the strength you can compare the moment of inertia of the various cross-sections and orientations. Bending strength is proportional to that value.

I have done that math for you:

a flat 2x4 has about 20% the strength as a standing one
a flat 2x6 has about 7% the strength as a standing one
a flat 2x8 has about 4% the strength as a standing one

You can see that especially for the deeper joists you lose practically all of the strength.


What could cause bubbling toilet when the shower or sink is running?

It sounds like the toilet, shower and sink share a vent. This is pretty normal; no plumber in his right mind would run separate vented stacks for each drain in the house. The drains are instead tied into one vent stack, and then stacks are combined as they flow into the main sanitary drain. However, the shower or sink may be upstream of the toilet, and are pushing air in front of water which might be finding relief by bubbling up the toilet's drain. The plumbing can still pass code, but the intent of the applicable plumbing code is to prevent a drain being too far from its vent, which causes air to get trapped "downstream" of water in the line, resulting in problems like this (and slow drains).

The design of the toilet may have something to do with it. Toilets, like other drains, have U-bends; for a toilet this has the dual purpose of keeping water in the bowl, and also keeping sewer gases from pushing out into the room (similar to J-traps on sink'shower drains). However, "low-flow" toilets which use 1.6GPF or less are often designed with a shallower U-bend, so that it doesn't take as much water flow to induce the siphon that makes the contents of the bowl go away. Depending on other aspects of the design, like the relative order of the sink, toilet and shower in the drain line, water pushing past the tee to the toilet may be enough to force some air through the toilet's U-bend.

You may also have some issues with tee junctions in the plumbing. Specifically, I'm thinking of a tee joint being installed backwards. Drain tees are not true T-shapes; the perpendicular end instead curves into the straight section. The curve should direct water from the tee joint "downstream" towards the main stack, but if installed backwards it will force drain water (and air) towards "upstream" drains before gravity then pulls it back down the main line. This causes a backwash that slows drains, and yes it can force air in the drain lines past traps like the toilet U-bend. If the bathroom was ever renovated and the plumbing changed, and the work was not inspected (or the inspector missed the problem), this is plausible.


what type of insulation for un conditioned attic

Vapor barrier, if any, on the warm side of the insulation.
Type of insulation is your choice. More is better, within reason. Costs vary - if you have space for it, cellulose is usually the best bang for the buck. The insulations that perform better in thinner sections also cost more per applied R-value. With a wall application, cellulose would need a net, or a second (non-structural) wall to hold it in place.


The manufacturer decided that rather than develop a 200 ampere double pole breaker, they'd parallel 100 ampere breakers to create the breaker instead.
Each leg of the service is connected to a pair of 100 ampere single pole breakers in parallel. This configuration allows the current to be divided equally between the breakers, as long as it can be guaranteed that the resistance across each breaker is nearly identical.
Basically the manufacturer created a double pole 200 ampere breaker, using four 100 ampere breakers.
Before you get the idea to try this at home, 240.8 of the National Electrical Code (NEC) prohibits it.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection
Article 240 Overcurrent Protection
240.8 Fuses or Circuit Breakers in Parallel. Fuses and circuit breakers shall be permitted to be connected in parallel where they are factory assembled in parallel and listed as a unit. Individual fuses, circuit breakers, or combinations thereof shall not otherwise be connected in parallel


Should a entire bathroom circuit run from a GFCI outlet

That very typically happens when Goober wires it. (I don't know who Goober's Canadian cousin is, maybe Joe Gongshow?)

Joe hooks it up, and goes "hey, what do I do with these extra wires?  Oh look, 2 more screws under this warning tape I did not read".

Things should only be put on the LOAD screws if you really want to provide GFCI protection to them.  Otherwise, the LINE screws usually are able to accept 2 wires via screw-and-clamp.

Lights and fans do not need to be on GFCI unless they are inside the shower.


How do I diagnose fluorescent light flicker?

Flickering and buzzing where bigger problems with magnetic ballasts and cheaper type T12 Fluorescents. These are becoming obsolete, if you have these types of lamps and ballasts you can retrofit them out to the newer High Power Factor electronic ballasts and type T8 lamps, or LED tubes.

T8 fluorescent lamps are about $3.00 each and A ballast is about $17.00. LED tubes are about $8.00 a tube but you still have to retrofit the fixture.

Good luck.


Can I clean out a GE dishwasher drain pump?

GE dishwasher won’t drain.
Washer is washing, but doesn’t drain.
During drain cycle you hear a hum, but no water is flowing into the garbage disposal.

Troubleshooting:
Two common problems:  1. Drain hose is blocked at the garbage disposal or anti-siphon air gap connection.  2.  Something is stuck in the drain pump so that the impeller blades can't turn.  That is why you hear a hum, but no water flows.  The drain pump has a magnetic AC induction motor of about 45 watts and is unlikely to burn out.

Unplug dishwasher power.
Get a large pan.  A plastic pan that you use to drain your motor oil into is about the right size.
Place the pan on the floor in front of your sink cabinet.
The pan should be lower than the bottom of the inside of dishwasher.
Disconnect the drain hose that goes to the air gap or garbage disposal.
If your line is not plugged up, water will flow out of the dishwasher into the pan.
If water flows out of the dishwasher into the pan your drain pump is not working.

Pull the dishwasher out far enough to turn it on it's side.
In many installations you will be able to slide the dishwasher out far enough to turn it on it's side without disconnecting the hot water inlet hose.  Be sure to turn the hot water valve under the sink off.

Fixing the drain pump:

The drain pump is basically dangling from a wire hanger.
Disconnect the hoses and AC wires and remove the pump.
The impeller housing cover is held on by three torx type screws.
Remove the cover and check the impeller blades.  Often you will find a foreign
 object such as piece of glass or china chip that is stopping the impeller blade.  Remove the object and reassemble the pump.

Put everything back together.  Plug in the dishwasher and turn the hot water back on.
Select the “Rinse Only" mode.  Press Start/Reset button.  Wait until you hear the dishwasher washing.  The press the Start/Reset button again.  The dishwasher will stop after a few seconds and hopefully start draining.

Thousands of dishwasher drain pumps have been unnecessarily replaced because a small piece of junk was stuck in the impeller blades.
(Note:  If you don't have a Torx bit go to your local Harbor Freight or hardware store and buy a small set of bits.  Much cheaper than a pump and you will have them for future projects.)