Should I leave a gap between flooring and shower for caulk?

If the floor is floating you need to leave a gap for expansion. Most floor manufacturers have a prescribed measurement, but I think 1/4-3/8 inch is the norm. That being said; caulk the gap with a 100% silicone caulking. You should be able to find one thats a close color to your floor.


Is it alright that I did not turn off the power while installing my thermostat?

Did you get shocked?

If it turns on, it's likely fine; modern electronics have fuses to prevent surge damage. Just...don't do that next time.


It looks like feeder wire, probably stranded aluminum—though it could be copper.  Judging by the scale of the breakers it looks to be AWG 6 or 4.   See this chart for ampacity ratings.

If you inspect the jacket of the wire for up to 18 inches, you should be able to find some writing which gives the exact wire size (gauge number), temperature rating, and voltage rating of the insulator.  Also, many cables have a distance number, usually in feet, from some origin (maybe the beginning of the 1000' spool the wire came from).


Older thermostats have a "Fan" switch that works independently of the system's On/Off switch.  That switch should be on Auto, not On or Circ or any other setting.
Newer thermostats have fan control too but some don't have a separate switch, just a setting somewhere.  Find it.  Make sure it's on Auto. Some newer thermostats have additional hidden "installer" settings that control the fan and limit what the user can do.  You can access those settings if you know how.
A thermostat can be wired incorrectly so the fan is always on.
The air handler can be wired incorrectly so the fan is always on.
Is it the thermostat?
If there is a fan switch, turn it to Auto (not On).  Did that fix it?  Good.
If it's on auto:  Turn off the breaker to the system.  Remove the thermostat from the wall.  Make note of how all the wires are connected to it.   Are any two wires connected to the same terminal?  That might be the problem.  Post a picture of that, and of the other end of this cable at the air handler.  If no two wires are on the same terminal, disconnect all the wires.  No wire should be touching the thermostat or any other wire or anything at all.  Turn the power back on.  Is the fan running?  If not, the thermostat is the problem.  If the fan is still running the problem is at the air handler.  Turn the breaker back off and put everything back. (You made note of where the wires were, right?)
Some thermostats are held to a base by plastic clips and can be yanked off the wall.  If you know you have one of these you can run the above test without turning off the power or disconnecting wires just by pulling the thermostat off the wall.  As long as you see that, on the base, no two wires are attached to the same terminal.


Millenco Lockmaster Mantis 3 lock - extra part after rebuilding

Per @Ecnerwal's comment, it appears to sit astride the spring just above the keyhole, with the ends of the horseshoe slotting into holes in both faceplates when they're re-assembled...:

I'm having trouble getting the other faceplate on without knocking all the parts around, but that's a different problem althogether...


What are the disadvantages of having electrical conduit penetrate my foundation below-grade?

My house has the main electrical come in below grade (built in 1967 before they knew better).  I would get some small leakage coming in around the conduit where it came through the concrete and later hydro-static pressure pushing water right up into the main breaker box which, though inside, was also below grade.

With a un-floored crawl space, some water leakage is probably not a problem but I'd recommend not taking the risk.  You can paint the conduit to match the house and it'll be basically unnoticeable.  Or plant a bush in front of it.  Or run the wire to the side somewhat and come out of the ground someplace less noticeable.

It's also much easier to run the conduit into the house if you can go through wood framing rather than a concrete foundation.


How to Disconnect these Electrical Connectors?

Two of the connectors have retaining clips.

Lift them up or push them down, whichever will disengage them. Then pull the connector out.

The other connectors might also have some type of retention device, though they're not visible in the photo.


Why did I need to switch several appliances in order to power my electric stove?

I'm assuming you are in the United States for this answer. A stove is normally on a dedicated circuit which means it alone is the only load wired to a particular circuit breaker. This means nothing else would have been affected if your stove's breaker tripped. The breaker for your stove will be larger than a normal 120V breaker in your panel so you would have had to reset this if the breaker indeed tripped. If your stove was still on, resetting the breaker may have been difficult; the switch may have been difficult or impossible to switch to the "ON" position.

I am assuming you unknowingly reset the breaker when you were switching things in your breaker panel. If you are certain you didn't, then you may have never actually tripped a breaker and have some other electrical problem.


"grout... starting to erode or crumble away under squeegee action"

Don't blame the sealer. Your grout was not prepared and/or applied properly. Applying a sealer now may help stabilize the grout but your best option would be to... re-regrout.


The company that I used to work for a few years ago had a saying about windows. There are 2 kinds of windows, windows that will leak, and windows that are leaking.

If you have the original windows to the house, some separation may have occurred at the sill level. whether it is at the corner where the side jamb meets the sill or where the sill meets the finished window sill or even someplace else.

Your problem is defiantly still water intrusion. Was before and still is. Since there is no pictures of the window itself, there is not a lot to go on. If the windows were replaced with new inserts. It may be where the new and old meet, or because of it. It is all still a guess with out more pictures. Need a few at the inside of the window jamb with the window open, at the inside corners and outside focused on the sill.


Will 12" studs work for a TV mount designed for 16" stud mounting?

You haven't told us what mount you're referring to, but most aren't designed for specific stud centers. Instead, they have a range of available mounting area (and many will accommodate 24" centers as well). It's very likely that your mount will work just fine on 12" centers.

You should be able to put a tape measure on the mount and verify. Can you position two bolts 12" apart? If so, the only question is whether you'll be able to mount the TV exactly where you want it, or if you'll have to shift to the side a bit.


It sounds like water dripping when heat runs

I suspect that you're hearing pinging from expansion and contraction of your ductwork. That often sounds like drops hitting the sheet metal. If you have access to the ducts, look for places where it's rubbing on the framing lumber between fasteners. Loosen the contact points or lubricate them.


Help translate terminology relating to flat roof construction

2 LAYERS ASPHALT TO CP144
with SOLAR REFLECTIVE PAINT
on [10?]mm PEARLDECK ([.025/.023])
ON @@@@@ SC3 Joists
AT #00 CENTRES

@@ RRING [PIECES?] [10?/TO?] @@@ 1-30

CP144 is a standards document describing roofing requirements. (It's been superseded.)

Based on some cursory research, it doesn't looks like Pearldeck comes in 10mm thicknesses, so I'm not sure what that number might be.

SC3 is a European strength rating for joists that has been replaced by a different rating system. (According to the link, SC3 is roughly equivalent to C16)

I'd bet that the last line is "100 CENTRES" with 100 being cm, which seems to be a common spacing for joists.

Pearldeck is hard to find, but based on these two sources:

http://www.woodgreentimber.com/Roofing-Materials-Wood-Green-Potters-Bar.php
http://www.euroken.net/supplies/products.html

It looks like it's an insulation board for roofing.

As to whether or not it's a good roof, cold, hot, or anything else, I have absolutely no idea, and it will largely depend on your local climate. Maybe an expert can add something to this answer, or maybe my translation will let you ask someone you know.

Lastly, not only am I not a professional, but I'm also American (I'm not familiar with common European building measurements/practices), so any or all of this might be completely wrong. This is all based on deduction and Google ;-) So feel free to edit whatever is obviously wrong.

I hope that helps!


Why would the input gas pressure fall when the central heating boiler calls for heat?

When the boiler is not heating, no gas is flowing, and you will measure the static input pressure of the gas supply line. The input pressure at the boiler drops when the boiler calls for heat because the gas is flowing during heating, and pressure drops occur in the gas piping upstream from your boiler due to the gas flow.

Without knowing the flowing gas input pressure before the annual service, it's not possible to say whether the present situation is abnormal or the service is the cause of less fierce flame. But an increased input pressure drop compared to before could be caused by increased obstruction in the upstream piping (flexible gas pipe being partially crushed, corrosion or debris and narrowing of rigid pipe, etc.) or decreased gas flow resistance in the boiler after servicing (removal of build-up from gas orifices and plenum in the boiler?). Another cause of could be a new gas leak in the boiler after the gas valve, however I would think you would smell gas if this were the case.


How can I cover a rounded window under a slanted ceiling?

Elegant and effective, high quality shutters block most light. They can be built with battery powered motors for remote control opening and closing. Must be custom made for most circumstances like yours, so not the cheapest option.

Blinds would be a nice option. Also must be custom made but a bit cheaper than shutters.


Condensation running down pipe connecting furnace thru ceiling to chimney

Sounds legit.  As you decrease the temperature of air inside the chimney you decrease the flow rate out of it causing the mixing with cooler air to happen in the chimeny rather than out of it.  It could be that this didn't happen in 2011 because of warmer outside air temperature, different humidity conditions, or that your exhaust was running hotter/faster then.  If you use the formula on wikipedia you can calculate your desired chimney cross section (just remember to use metric to stay consistent).  Also the damaged cap definitely could slow your flowrate which could contribute to this issue.


How do I dig a 3 foot deep narrow trench in soft clay

It's physically very difficult to dig a very narrow but deep trench. You may have better luck just renting a ditch digger/trencher, which is kind of like a big chainsaw for dirt. You can dig trenches that are very narrow, and the only thing that really slows you down with it is large rocks.

You should have utilities marked before you dig (whether using a trencher or not). In some areas, this is enforced by law (eg: in Ontario, Canada, it is law under the Ontario Occupational Health And Safety Act).


Reverse osmosis drain with a single basin sink when there is garbage disposal?

That video is confusing. The purpose of the drain saddle is to provide a channel for the RO system to drain excess water - this is pretty standard. The problem with the current drain configuration is that the disposal runs directly into the P trap. You actually want the drain saddle installed between the disposal and the P trap.
The proper setup for this is to rerun your 1.5 inch drain from the disposal running it horizontally far enough for you to attach the drain saddle and then into the P trap. You may be able to rotate the elbow coming out of the disposal to accomodate a horizontal run. If not you may have to rotate your disposal a few degrees to give you the room you'll need.
I'm not sure of the building codes in your area but I'm fairly certain that attaching it to the drain before the P trap would violate code.


Is this wiring dangerous? Smart Thermostat C-wire AC adapter twisted together

Well you are using low voltage infact finger safe voltages unless your adapter was a welder in a previous use I would not be concerned if everything is working, I have used adapters to power thermostats when it was cheaper than pulling new wire when RH & RC and fan were all good with my adapter (or transformer).


Outlet tester says "Correct", but there is no ground wire

Assuming you are in north america: In a home wired up with armored cable, otherwise known as BX or AC cable, the armor is the grounding conductor. It is always terminated to a metal box with a cable clamp that secures the cable and completes the connection between the box and armor. The metal mounting bracket(called the yolk), which is the frame of an outlet, is not only mechanical but also serves as a ground conductor for the outlets ground prong(s), the grounding terminal screw and the cover screw. The ground connection is made in one of two ways: via the ground screw or the mounting screws which secure the yolk to the box. The yolk method is acceptable in armored cable systems.

Newer MC or metal clad cable looks exactly like armored cable but has its own grounding conductor. In that wiring system, the armor is not listed for grounding and the wiring methods are similar to that of terminating non metallic cable (aka romex). Meaning, the ground wire must be connected to the metal box, the outlet, and any other grounding conductor.


I think I see what you want to do.  You want to run two joists 11' across your garage 42" apart, and use 42" x 46" pallet rack for the floor rather than the usual plywood, and you're trying to determine what size joist to use.

The usual span tables are not quite right to answer this question.  The span tables that are published are based on the length of the span, the size of the joist, the type of wood, the live and dead
(uniform) loads on the floor, the acceptable deflection, and the spacing between joists.

Right off the bat, the span tables won't list spans for 42" spacing.  They make tables for the commonly used values, 12", 16", and 24" on-centers spacing, but not for arbitrary values like 42".

You could take this to an engineer, they can do the calculations that are used to generate the span tables, so they can handle the oddball 42" spacing.

The span tables are also built around uniform live and dead loads per square foot, so that will work a little different.

You might be tempted to guess that since you're less-than-doubling the 24" spacing to 42", maybe if you doubled up the joists, you'd be OK.  So if the span tables say you're good at 24" spacing with 2x10 joists, maybe you'd be OK with doubled 2x10's at double that spacing.  It's a reasonable guess but it would be an experiment.

Of course you could just use three joists - the outer two spaced 42" and the third halfway between them - then you are at 21" OC and if you use the 24" span tables you should be OK.  The pallet rack wire grid would still fit over the joists.

It's still a bit of an experiment, I don't know if there's anything problematic about wire grid on wood joist supports that are not immediately apparent - it's not an accepted construction method and it's not anything the manufacturer intended.

I don't like the idea that the wire grids are not attached to the joists, but I couldn't point to a specific hazard where they would lift up either.

edit:  this very interesting link was posted in the comments

Wood Beam Calculator

That calculator does allow you to enter 42" spacing.  The only part that seemed a little wonky is the Grade selection, it was only with the Grade "misc" selected that doubled 2x10's came up as an acceptable beam:

Keep in mind that if you just use plywood and standard joist spacing, you can turn this experiment into a nice boring, safe, standard, business as usual construction project.  You'll save money, gain some peace of mind, and when it comes time to sell the house, you won't have to have a long discussion with the home inspector and prospective buyer.


Have you had the soil tested?  I think you can find places on the web that you can send samples to.


Replacing Carpet with Hardwood floor - contractor issues on base board cutting

If your baseboard goes down to the subfloor then I would be very surprised that the installer took the time to cut into it so that hardwood would go under it. If the contractor has a specialty tool for this which makes the endeavor take seconds instead of using an oscillating multi-tool then that would be cool.
Anyways, the baseboard was probably cut unevenly so brand new shoe molding is designed explicitly to hide the imperfections where your floor meets the baseboard; regardless of whether the floor goes under the baseboard or butts up right against it.
What exactly is the issue if hidden drywall was damaged a little bit?
In your mind what exactly would make things right or better? Based on your worries "making it right" is going to be expensive.
Overall, the install looks fairly proper. Patch the holes and add a fresh coat of paint on your baseboard and shoe molding and it will look great.


Will pressure-treated lumber shrink enough to cause failure of roof flashing around it?

Wood expands and contracts regardless. It shrinks when it's sunny and it expands when it rains. Any flashing should be able to accommodate that, and I assume whatever was there before did so.
That said, vinyl post sleeves aren't terribly expensive. Even if your railings are bare wood, white, beige, or brown posts could look very nice. They'd also eliminate your contractor's concerns. They're worth considering.


How much of this load bearing wall can I remove?

Substantial changes to a load-bearing wall really an engineer's review. The consequences of getting it wrong are unacceptable.

When it came time to take out a loadbearing wall in my place, I hired a contractor, who brought in an engineer to calculate exactly what size parallam beam would be needed to span the gap and how to provide the necessary support below the remaining stubs of wall  which were now taking the additional load.


Toliet flapper doesn't reseat properly on flush

If the problem keeps occurring after a new flapper has been installed then you should be sure that:

the chain from the flapper to the handle is not too short as to not allow the flapper to seat fully.

If the flapper continues to sit askew it may be installed wrong. make sure that the two openings on the flapper arms are sitting evenly on the overflow pipes attachment points. It should not bind.

Some flappers have a hollow bulbous cavity that sometimes get air trapped inside. This may prevent the flapper from closing properly. Remove air from cavity.

Some tank cleaners that contain chlorine or other chemicals will degrade the rubber flapper making it brittle and deformed. There are ones resistant to these cleaners.


First order of business: why irrigate?
The first order of business you have here is to determine what actual value irrigation brings beyond "green lawn".  If you're irrigating vegetables and other edible or otherwise useful things, presumably using a drip system, you can skip this section entirely; however, there is a strong case to be made for not planting your lawn in a way that requires irrigation once established.
Using grasses and plantings reflective of the North American shortgrass prarie ecosystem that you sit on the western fringe of, such as blue grama, buffalograss, purple prarie clover, and leadplant (another nitrogen fixer), as well as native shrubs and local wildflower types, in a xeriscaping scheme is a far cheaper (no irrigation installation, lower water bills, less chemicals, less mowing) way to handle your lawn in the long run.  This even can work with picky HOAs, as several turfgrass cultivars of buffalograss have been developed over the years due to its hardiness and drought-resistance.  Appendix C of the Denver Green Infrastructure Guidelines is a good starting point if you want to go beyond my suggestions here; there are other sources of guidance available as well.
If you insist...
If there's some bizarre reason you can't abide by not having lawn sprinklers, or need to irrigate for other reasons such as vegetable plantings, then we can address the installation issues.  First off, the 12" spacing behind the Pressure Vacuum Breaker is required so that the device can be tested and serviced on a regular basis, as PVBs have test cocks, unlike their non-testable Atmospheric Vacuum Breaker counterparts.
With that out of the way, your best bet for the drain port on your Stop and Waste valve is to route it to a floor drain via a drain line and air gap, if possible.  If that's not an option, you may be stuck routing said drain line to a sump or other internal drainage means instead; just take appropriate precautions to prevent stormwater from backing up into it!


How do I change out the light bulb in this fixture?

Take the photo to several lighting fixture stores and ask. The staff will often have wide knowledge of back catalog.


How do I install an exterior soffit vent?

It's just friction-fit, probably, if there are no fasteners present. The metal just presses outward with a little spring tension. You'd lift the new on up into the soffit cavity through the gap, then gently pull it down into position, maybe using a short wire hook.

I suppose you could install it upside-down on the surface, but you'd have to use some small screws. They'd need to be pre-drilled to avoid blowing out the edge of the gap. Won't look as nice, either.


Is it possible for a microwave to damage outlets and after a while cause a breaker to pop under load?

It’s funny, when a safety device like an AFCI trips, people are really reluctant to consider that it might be exactly what it says on the tin.
An AFCI breaker detects arc faults - that’s where a wire is either making poor contact and normal current is causing arcing across that poor contact; or; where a wire is partially shorting with another wire (but not flowing enough current to trip the breaker).
A wide variety of wire and device problems can cause arc faults, but top of the hit-list is Backstab connections. And since your house was done hit-and-miss, and very much NOT up to Code, I bet that’s exactly what is going on here.  The person used backstabs on the receptacles, and they are failing either because they are backstabs, or that + poor workmanship.
Since circuits are generally wired daisy-chain (breaker to point-of-use 1 to point-of-use 2 etc.), the core problem can be at any point in the daisy chain.  When the breaker in question trips, survey which sockets lose power - they all need to be checked.  Inspect where the wire attaches.  Obviously you can’t inspect where a backstab attaches (and you don’t want to use them anyway), so firmly twist and pull the wire out of the backstab and look for arcing marks/spots.  Then put them back on a side screw.
Lastly, if the work had been done by the seller of the house, and is substandard (and it certainly sounds substandard for reasons I’ll describe), then the seller owes you a pile of money.  Because the shoddy, obviously non-permitted non-inspected work definitely should have been on the disclosure statements, and was not.  I haven’t done enough real estate to know which of the various insurers covers this (title insurance???) but one of them should; they in turn will go after the seller.  If none do, then you go after the seller.  Shame on them!
Why it seems substandard:  Code requires a bunch of dedicated circuits your house doesn’t seem to have.

A dedicated 20A circuit for bathroom receptacles, that serves no other loads (except if it serves 1 bathroom it can serve other loads in that bathroom).
Two, count em two, circuits dedicated to kitchen countertops, which can power nothing else but a gas range, a clock, or other kitchen/dining area receps.
Dedicated circuits for dishwasher, disposal, built in microwave, and electric range obviously.
There is no requirement for a dedicated circuit for a fridge, but it’s a pretty good idea. Fridges should never be on GFCI/AFCI, for the same reason fire alarms shouldn’t.
Dedicated circuit for laundry room.


Possible to do full wall paneling in modern construction?

Yes, it can be , and is done all the time. We use to call this style "craftsman style." All the elements you describe are included in that style: hand made paneling, open beam construction, you say, "lattice type " ceiling (we call coffered ceiling), etc.

Now we use these elements in our designs for upper end projects, (just like they did in the craftsman style, which most people don't realize). When we are trying to do something special, we'll often add wood details.  However, this is only economically feasible for the most custom and most expensive construction.

Yes, as others have stated, the cost is too prohibitive for most homes...both labor and material costs. Our housing market has changed.


Can I add a porcelain bathroom fixture to existing tile?

I would say it is too late to add these. Another alternative is to use a shower caddy. They are fairly common, and can hold soaps, shampoos, etc.

If you really wanted to go this route, you may end up having to re-tile the entire shower.


Not sure.  We get our flush bits sharpened which takes down the blades which doesn't cut flush anymore.

What you can do is change the bearing to a different diameter.


Ran into a weird setup at home, trying to replace switches with smartswitches

The 2 blacks at the bottom will be the live from the breaker and the live to the outlets. There will be another place where the wire continues to the other outlet.

The red and black are going to the fan/light. The reason for 2 wires being switched is to allow easy upgrade from single switch to a combo switch that controls the light and fan separately.

The whites are the neutral.

So the smart switch will take line in from the bottom black which will need to be wirenutted and pigtailed if the switch doesn't allow 2 wires per connection. The neutral will be an addition white in the bundle of neutrals. And the switched out will be the red/black combo (again wirenut as needed).


Algae build up from pond is clogging sewer drain

That looks like the type of algae that is floating IN the water (as opposed to ON it). That means it might be controllable via aeration, either a redesign to add more falling water to get more oxygen into it, (i.e. a small dam and waterfall) or by adding a small pond pump and sprayer.
Secondary to keeping it under control is to take a look at whether you are causing it to over bloom in the first place. Looking at your yard, you might be over feeding your lawn and plants, so the nutrient runoff is getting into that stream and feeding the algae too.


Condenser, (heat pump) covered in pollen - does it need to be vacuumed - pic attached

Yes, you should clean it. Or better, have a professional clean it. Watch how they do it, and take notes.  Then next time, you can clean it yourself. The technician may take the cover off the unit, and spray from the inside out.

If you're going to do it yourself, check the manufacturer's documentation for the approved cleaning method.  It usually involves gently rinsing it with a garden hose, though may recommend a cleaning spray. There are loads of videos on YouTube, that describe how to properly clean the unit.

Whatever you do, be gentle, and DO NOT scrub, brush, or in any way touch the fins.  They are very delicate, and can be bent and damaged with the lightest touch. Even spraying them with a high pressure nozzle on your hose can cause damage, so be careful when cleaning the unit.

Warning: Don't forget to turn the power off using the disconnect, before performing this, or any other maintenance on the unit.


Do you have an automatic fill valve? Is there a manual valve in line with it? Try closing the manual valve if there is one. If that solves your problem, adjust and/or replace the automatic fill valve.

If you have a (domestic/potable) hot water coil, that could be leaking into the boiler, too. Shut off the domestic hot water supply on the cold side of the boiler to diagnose that possibility.


How to connect wifi thermostat with a boiler after cable upgrade?

Difficult to guess but here's what it looks like:

The top left post 1, Thick yellow wire is boiler
The top middle post 2, labeled G activates both the fan (thin black wire) and the boiler (thin red wire jumping 1 and 2)
The bottom left post 4, Thick white wire is neutral C
The bottom right post 5, Thick black wire is hot R

There is no fan delay control so when the thermostat shorts the red and white, it energises both fan and boiler.

With 18/5 wire you'll connect

White to top center post: Call for heat W
Red to bottom right post: Hot R
Blue to bottom left post: Neutral C
Green unconnected: fan control G
Yellow unconnected: call for cool Y

Important: The RTH8580WF is made for 24VAC systems.  If the boiler is using line voltage (120V) it will destroy the thermostat.


Dealing with water on a bad garage slope

I have a similar situation, though due to poor masonry work rather than settling. Meltwater runs to the side of the garage near the house entry door, soaking the stair base and a shelving unit, along with any objects sitting there, with saltwater.

I intend to cut several channel drains into the slab at key locations using a rented diamond saw. Normally this type of drain would connect to a pipe running to the exterior (a "daylight" drain), or would have a deep drain pail below. For our purposes, this probably isn't necessary. I may excavate a small area below the drain unit and add pea gravel to increase capacity, though.

The idea is to catch the bulk of the water flow as it leaves the parking area. Water will settle into the soil below the slab. I don't believe that it'll be enough to cause further settling or other issues. We're talking about a few gallons per week at the most, and only during winter.


Do under-cabinet outlets need to be provided above a window?

Not an inspector or electrician, but I was a supervisor of a job that had the same issue. With prior approval from the inspector since there is a requirement/restriction for countertop mounted outlets, the inspector allowed a pop up outlet in the countertop.
Here is a pic of the countertop with the window, sorry I can only tell you the outlet is near the red box on the counter. Wall framing did not allow it to go anywhere else to get it close enough to the sink...
As mentioned, it was pre-approved by the inspector. This was about 3 years ago.


Installing house surge protector in full panel?

I'd pick two of those 20s and swap them for a 20-50-50-20 triplex breaker
Since your panel is listed and labeled to accept tandem/"double stuff" breakers in all positions, and looks to be uniformly configured with 20A breakers, we can take two adjacent 20A breakers in the panel and switch them out for a MP22050CT (if you can find it) or Q22050CT (if you can't find the Murray part) triplex breaker, then land the two existing 20A circuits you replaced on the two outer poles.  You can then install your Type 2 SPD, landing the hots on the two 50A inner poles of the triplex breaker, the neutral on the right-hand neutral bar, and the ground on the left-hand ground bar.  (Note that you'll need to use a SPD that has separate neutral and ground wires coming out; some SPDs only provide two hots and a neutral and thus can't be used on a subpanel.)
And I'd clean up those double taps while I was at it
While I was in here, I'd clean up those two double taps on the bottom-left and bottom-right breakers, as all that takes is a couple of pigtails of 12AWG wire and wirenuts suited for 3 12AWG wires.  Take each double-tap out of the breaker terminal screw, nut a pigtail to the twisted ends of the two wires, and land that pigtail on the breaker terminal screw the double-tapped wires once went to.  Repeat for the other breaker, and once that and the SPD install are done, you can button things up, turn the main breaker back on, and call it a day!


I'll post this here although I haven't actually read it, I currently have it on order as I plan on doing some built in bookshelves for my media equipment. A friend I know who makes his own furniture suggested it:
Illustrated Cabinetmaking


Using Patch Panel for CAT6a wiring from attic to closet

My standard procedure:

Put a big piece of plywood on the wall - in this case, the wall shared between the closet and the attic. Make sure you get screws through the plywood into two studs.
Mount patch panel(s) on the plywood.
Feel free to mount other small things, as appropriate, directly on the plywood.
Bring all your cables around one side (top, bottom, left or right - whatever works for your particular setup) of the plywood and into the patch panel(s).


Possible water hammer under kitchen sink

A loose washer on the hot water shutoff can also cause a hammer..


Electrical outlet arcs only for non polarized grounded plug

When you "bumped" the grounded cord, you bent up the grounding clamp of the outlet and made momentary contact with the neutral side of the outlet causing the arcing. When you removed the grounded plug and just used a two prong plug the ground inside the outlet didn't make contact because no ground plug was inserted.... Those outlets are very close quarters inside and can arc over with little pressure when damaged. I'd turn off the breaker for that outlet until it gets replaced.


How do I measure the thickness of something with a lip or frame?

There are special forms of Vernier caliper such as these known as neck calipers.

  These neck calipers enable measurements in hard to reach places.
  They offer you the following benefits:

  You can measure wall thickness inside bores and recesses.

Obviously, the machinists calipers in A.I.Breveleri's answer will be cheaper and will probably work for a much wider range of situations.

Another type is the Curre-jaw caliper - again with a vernier scale - though both these jaw types are available on calipers with electronic digital readout

There are also a very wide range of external dial calipers, as kris and pcdev identified.


The light bulbs suggested by the salesman will operate at full intensity, as you've indicated that the fixture does not include dimming features. At full intensity and 6.5 watts per bulb, you are well under the safe maximum noted in your first line.

You are safe by a substantial factor.


Replacing the track and the rollers for a sliding glass door (kitchen to patio)

The only thing "standard" about sliding doors is that they have rollers and tracks. Beyond that there is no such thing as standard. If you start to look around for replacement rollers themselves you will find out that there are literally dozens of sizes and styles. Check out this web site to see what I mean. They show 114 types that they have available!!

So to replace rollers alone entails having the part you are replacing in hand and very carefully compare it to the size description and pictures at the place you hope to find the replacements.

As far as track replacement, if your track is not too far gone, sometimes it is possible to purchase a clip on stainless steel strip that fits over the worn track and provides a new true edge for the rollers to run on. Not all tracks are compatible with these strips though and that leaves you with a huge decision of whether you just replace the whole door assembly. That is likely the only real choice because for as many styles of rollers that exist there an equal number of models of aluminum extrusions that the door manufacturers have used for the track and lower threshold of the door.

There is the additional factor regarding the replacement itself. If you look closely at most sliding door track pieces you will note that they are assembled to the side parts of the door frame using screws up from the bottom side. In the case that you did somehow get lucky and found the exact replacement track piece you would have to completely remove the door frame unit from the rough opening to be able to install the new piece. At that point you are half way toward what it would take to install a new door assembly.

If your house is old there may be some good arguments to install a new door. There have been many advances in these doors over the years including more energy efficient glass pane stacks and vinyl frames.


Is it common practice to combine room and dryer vent ducts?

Absolutely not. Bringing two exhaust vents together that likely have very different pressures is a recipe for failure (and potentially dangerous backflow). They must be vented separately.


What's best to use in a sawzall to cut steel pipe?

It will probably be 3 to 6 hours of non-skilled labor (neighborhood kids?) to dig up the concrete and remove the whole assembly.  Don't cut the post off:  it will help wiggle out the base.

Dig a hole immediately to one side of the concrete base of a convenient size.  (There is no need to dig all around it.)  A post hole digger works great.  Make the hole at least as wide (front to back) as the concrete so you can tip the concrete into the hole.  The hole need not be as wide (left to right) as the concrete; only enough to detach it from the surrounding soil.  The concrete depth should be at least 36 inches below the frost depth, but that is hard work and most people would go 24–30 inches and call it good.  (Also note that link says a standard parallel-sided hole is not desirable, but most installers use an auger or post hole digger so it is unlikely to be pyramid shaped.)

The block of concrete will weigh up to 250 pounds, so no need to be polite and dainty when trying to move it.  Roping it to a heavy vehicle, tree, boulder, etc. and jumping on the line would not be overkill to gain sufficient force.

Once it is out, use a sledgehammer or blunt end of a splitting maul on the concrete to break it off the pipe and into easy-to-carry and easy-to-use pieces for trimming a garden, driveway fill, etc.  Then you'll also have a sturdy pipe to build a fountain, chime, etc. too.


How to find/identify bad connections in house wiring?

The only way I would know how to do it is to go and buy an inexpensive Infrared Thermometer. You can buy them anywhere for less than $60.00. Then you can walk through and "site" any device that appear to be warmer than normal. Start with you panel and survey every breaker. Then you can go to every device and check it. Did I mention you should make sure the circuit is on a load for at least an hour. I would use a small 1500W heater for a load source on receptacles. This is something you can do over time. If you are just shooting a receptacle head or an AC disconnect the temperature should rise to at least 5 - 10 degrees above normal temp. Really loose connections will rise much more than that.


USA Mains black to device black & Mains red to device white

Mains guy here.

Nope. To be precise, Ms. Nope.

We often see people take a bog-standard NEMA 5-15 socket and intentionally miswire it so the (tall) neutral pin is actually connected to the opposing hot pole.  That seems to work, when you plug in a computer via the common cord  (NEMA 5-15P to IEC C13).  But like many things that seem to work, it will kill you.

Anyway, it's rather silly to do, since there's a right way to do that very thing.

You use the 3rd or 4th gal, officially called Ms. Nope or Ms. Winky-Nope.  (they are female, after all).  The NEMA 6 connector is precisely for that, and as you can see, it's the same form-factor (except for the pins, of course; those are keyed.) And that's it; done.  Get a NEMA 6-15P to ICE C13 power cord, and you're good to go.

Hardwiring, yeah, that's OK

If you make the electrical connection hardwired, inside a junction box, then yes, you can attach appliance white/black to the two 240V hot wires (black/black, black/red, etc.)

You do not need to use 3-wire supply cable (black-white-red) if you only want 240V.  You can use 2-wire cable (black-white) but you need to re-mark the white wires near each splice point to designate them as hot wires, typically with black tape.  If your wiring is in conduit with individual wires, you can't use white for a hot; use the correct wire color.

Your wire color codes are green, yellow-green or bare = safety earthing (which is called "ground" in mains; not to be confused with electronics GND/Vss).   In North America, gray and white = neutral, and all else = hot.

Don't eliminate your minimum required 120V outlets

Most houses are built with only the bare minimum number of 120V circuits and outlets - 1 circuit to a bedroom with outlets every 12', 2 20A circuits to the kitchen countertop receps.  This means, if you re-wire one of those circuits to 240V, you will now fall short of the minimum number of 120V outlets.  Can't do that.  So unless your house was over-wired by a genius electrician, it probably means you'll need to run new circuits in the walls for the 240V.

Multi-wire branch circuits are a 120V alternative

If you are running /3 (black white red) cable anyway, this can be wired as a multi-wire branch circuit.  It is capable of supporting 2 circuit's worth of power on one cable, as well as  both 120V and 240V loads. However, this makes GFCI and AFCI protection more complicated, which are now required on most circuits that support 120V.


Appliances are supposed to be approved by a competent testing agency.  This might be TUV or CSA, and the EU has a scheme where EU manufacturers can self-certify.

Part of the certification is confirming that the appliance is insulated sufficiently for reverse polarization, assuming it comes with a plug capable of being plugged in backwards. (A non-issue on UK and US plugs which are polarized).

This, however, is only as good as the testing agency.  This is where the sea of cheap foreign junk enters the picture.  A lot of mail ordered items bypass product safety laws and customs, and have never seen the inside of a testing lab.  For those items, your concerns are very much warranted.


Are entry door systems with lock release secure?

If I am inferring correctly what you are describing, it sounds like the "brains" of the system are installed outside with one screw access. That, of course, is an abysmal design. The only thing that should be outside accessible would be the wires to the call button and speaker - all other wiring should be inside-access only.

If you are otherwise happy with the system, you could probably move the components that should not be outside inside, leaving only the wiring needed for the outside components running to the outside box.


Should I replace an existing gas fireplace with electric?

This is a pretty subjective question, so it will probably get closed.  However, generally speaking, gas is cheaper than electricity for heating purposes, i.e., it takes less $ worth of gas than electric to heat "whatever", so the cost will most likely be lower for the gas one.  Heating is not a particularly efficient use of electricity.


How can I remove a stud from a load bearing wall?

Instead of using king studs on either side of the header, use jack studs.

The jack studs take the load from the cripple and transfer it vertically to the floor.  You could attach to king studs as you showed, but the problem is you now have to worry about sheer strength as well.


Depends on what the manufacturers specifications say.

For the particular doublewall insulated chimney (not "stovepipe" which is singlewall) I last had to work with, clearance to combustables was 2" from the pipe wall. The deformations at the joint appear to be consistent with what you have being double or triple wall insulated chimney, not stovepipe.

Stovepipe (singlewall) typically needs at least 18" clearance to combustibles, as it may get red-hot in the event of an excessive fire in the stove, or a chimney fire in the pipe.

Since the part shown is intended for framing support it's typically safe to have wood where the sheet screws in for support.

But the manufacturers specs (for the exact pipe and accessories you are actually working with) is what rules. You can almost certainly find out who that is by carefully examining the pipes (the info will be stamped into every piece, in my experience.) Then you should be able to look up the installation manual for the pipe and support piece.


How can I add a bathroom fan to the existing end line light switch?

The answer to your only stated question is YES. To independently switch 2 different things you need to have 2 switched hot wires, you would have to run an additional wire from the wall switch location to the ceiling location.

The statement that "the light only has 14/2 running to the switch" tells us that one of those wires is a hot lead to the switch, the other is the switched hot that runs back up to the light (unless there are other/more wires that you did not mention).


Running a jumper ground wire from panel to non grounded outlet

What you have done was recently made legal under NEC 2014.

The only hitch is that a 20A circuit requires 12 AWG ground wire.  So if the circuits were 20A, they are now 15A.

A ground is nothing but a safety shield.  No appliance should be flowing current to ground, not even the GFCI.

You may have already had a ground fault

If a device flows current to ground and the ground is not hooked up, it will "float" the ground to a potentially hazardous voltage, energizing whatever part of your grounding system does exist, e.g. Chassis of equipment, coverplate screws on outlets, etc.    However no current will flow unless there's a path back to source.

Suppose you already a GFCI in such a situation?  Since no current is flowing, it would not trip a GFCI.  This is safe because if you did get shocked, then current would be flowing and the GFCI would trip.

By adding the ground, you created the path back to source, which is assuring that the GFCI trips.

This is laying bare the fact that you have an appliance with a ground fault.  You did before, just your lack of ground was concealing it.

Since this is a hot-ground or neutral-ground fault, it is unlikely to be the wiring, which has never been near a ground.  I would look hard at appliances.


How do you get spray paint drips off wooden desk

You'll likely have to shoot the spots with new paint. But first, scrape them off. Preferably a square edge of stiff plastic, the square edge is your scraper or hopefully popper...the plastic will do no or little damage to the area. If that doesn't do it then carefully scrape them flush & invisible with a razor blade. Then, just shoot these areas again to re-matte or re-gloss them. Sanding will affect a larger area & will result in absolutely having to re-paint most of the panel.


Sudden drop in water pressure at sink furthest from entry of main water line

This is normally caused by rust, scale or other debris clogging the aerator on the faucet, remove it and see if you have normal flow, note without the aeration the water stream will shoot like a garden hose so be prepared. If the flow is still reduced the orifices in the valve may be plugged by the rust, scale  or other debris. Washer less faucets tend to have this problem more often than standard valves.

To fix a washer less turn the supply lines off remove the handle and cartridge , I put a bowl over the fitting and turn the cold on for a few seconds then the hot to purge anything in the lines out. Sometimes it is easy to clean the cartridge or plate other times a replacement is needed, if you just clean it is a good idea to change out the o rings with new ones many times they are color coded but if not they are standard sized and can be replaced with generic buna o rings.

These are the 2 places I have found problems that cause low flow on many occasions both with city water and well water systems.


Best way to make wiring to outbuilding legal

Oh my gosh! It sounds like you have a 120volt sub-panel if both the hot leads are jumpered.  That's an OK practice for ppl that don't need a lot of power or 240 in the sub-panel.

Did you really say the "other black" is really the neutral and "capped off"?   That means the ground is being used for the neutral, very dangerous and very illegal.

The good news is this isn't hard to fix.  You should:

1)  Turn off power to the sub-panel NOW.

2)  remove from the neutral and connect the bare, unshielded ground to the ground bar.

3)  Connect the neutral to the neutral buss bar (be sure to code-tape it with white tape), make sure the neutral is indeed connected to your neutral buss bar in your main panel.

4)  Make sure the neutral and ground are isolated.

Assumptions:  that your 30-amp breaker is a single pole breaker, or that only one pole is connected.

Alternative:  If you want 240 in your shop, you'll need to run another wire for the neutral, remove the jumper between the 2 hots in the sub-panel and connect the wires properly, You may also have to swap out the 30 amp breaker for a double pole one, depending upon what you have now.

Your "handyman" missed a typical issue with sub-panels, you are required to have a neutral back to the main panel.  You won't have that if you go 240v unless you add another wire from the house to the shed.   You would have a separate neutral and ground if you stayed at 120 and made the other changes.

You are right, this is monkeyed up and congrats for realizing it and fixing it.


How do you deal with the cut edges of window trim?

Sand end grain as smooth as you can, then apply two coats of primer before final coat with paint.


Which is better: UPS or Voltage stablizer in terms of power fluctuations

As far as I know a UPS is a voltage stabilizer but with a backup battery and a voltage stabilizer is a UPS without a backup battery. As such their ability to handle voltage fluctuation depends more on their specific design than whether or not they have battery backup.


Slack on hose and venting for washer and dryer

Yes.  There are even products made for this.  Its important to have locking wheels (even if you only ever lock the front two that you can access)
As to adding some slack for the hose, remember that this will effect drying efficiency and add additional spaces for lint/socks to accumulate which can become a safety/fire issue.  Is it possible to rig a quick disconnect for the hose?  this would also allow for annual cleaning of the hose:


If my new faucet hoses don't fit on the shutoff valve should I replace the valve or use an adapter?

In this case it would be a lot better to just replace the shut off valves, by adding an adapter you are just adding one more thing to break or go wrong and cause leaks!   -7 years plumbing experience and red seal certified (Canada)


What is this welding tool I found in my attic?

According to an ozzie web site, it's a non-flint electronic spark lighter.


1948 fabric sheathed outlet wires, can I ground to box?

A wire from the receptacle to the box is still no ground at all - the box isnt grounded.

You need to either replace the wire all the way back to the electrical panel to make a properly grounded outlet, or replace the outlet with a GFCI, which provides the protection a ground wire would.  You are also supposed to label the outlet with a "No Equipment Ground" sticker.


That model can produce 18.4 gallons of purified water per 24hrs or about 1.3 hours per gallon. So in seven hours, a 5 gallon tank should be filled. There may be other factors that affect this. If it is still running after 10 hours, you've certainly got a problem. Note that every time you use the filtered water, there will be additional draining.


Sub panel supplied by two different lines from main panel

Either it's 120V subpanel and he's plain paralleling... which is rather bad.

Or it's a 240V panel, and he's supplying hot/neutral/ground with one cable and the other hot with the other cable.  That's a different kind of bad.

Both are unacceptable.  You should replace both cables with a single /3 cable:

4/3 Aluminum or 6/3 Copper if you want 60A in this subpanel
8/3 Copper if you want 40A
10/3 if you want 30A
12/3 if you want 20A
14/3 if you want 15A, but this is fairly pointless.

And, both hot wires need to land on a 2-pole breaker which has common trip, meaning both legs trip together, and, move either handle, the other goes too.

Note that a duplex/tandem/twin/double-stuff has independent handles and must not be used, as it will create a dangerous situation if you do.


How many recesses of a '5-pin' socket should light a voltage tester?

Assuming you mean an IEC 60309 Plug that delivers 3-phase 230/400V power (usually a red connector), there should be power on three pins.
The largest hole is for the earth pin, and the next hole counter-clockwise is the neutral. The remaining holes should have line voltage - 230v measured to neutral or 400v measured to another line hole.
Here is a good reference for you: https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/IEC60309_1.html
Also, as mentioned in the comments, get yourself a proper tester for this or call an electrician to test it.


Feasibility of replacing cracked AC condenser fan blades

This type of failure is fairly common, and usually doesn't cause too much collateral damage, if caught quickly.
If you want to attempt the work yourself, it is fairly straightforward as you describe. You'll likely have to source the replacement blade from a local HVAC company, or the internet. You'll also have to balance the blade, so that it doesn't destroy itself again.
Once you open the unit, you'll want to inspect it closely for damage. Specifically, look for deep cuts and dents in the coil. There may be  some superficial damage to the fins, which likely isn't too big of a deal. If there's  lots of damage to the fins, or damage severe enough to penetrate the refrigerant lines. You will need to repair or replace the coil.
Also look for damaged wiring, as that could require replacement of the motor.
When purchasing a replacement blade, make sure you get a blade designed to spin in the appropriate direction.
You shouldn't need any specialized tools, other than possibly a pair of retaining ring pliers.
If there are screw/bolts used to retain the blade. Depending on the rotation direction of the motor, you may encounter some left handed threads. So watch out for that.
If you get the unit running again, but notice it's not cooling.  First check that the blade is moving air through the unit in the proper direction, then call an HVAC tech to check the refrigerant charge.
WARNING:
Before beginning any work, make sure you remove power to the unit, and have verified that it's off. It's also recommended to discharge the capacitor(s) in a safe way, before poking around.


Why does my house heat up, even when it's cool outside?

Meet solar gain

For the most vivid example of solar gain, sit in your car with everything off - A/C off, blower off, windows rolled up tight, doors shut tight.  You can't. Your body will force you to open a door or something because it will become unbearably hot within minutes.

If it were always night, or if your house were entirely in shade, this would not be an issue.  However, your house is in sun,  and that means it is being actively heated by about 100 watts (300 BTU/hr) per square foot (around 1 KW/m²).

That's really a square foot directly facing the sun, so it'll be less if you're not at the equator at noon... but walls count too, so that's kind of a wash. The reflectivity of the roof and walls help.  So let's say all in all, 50% gets through.

This is why a car with 48 square feet (4.5 m²) of cabin gets so hot so fast - it's intaking 2400 watts/8000 BTU/hr of heat.   That's the heating power of an oven.  This is why leaving a baby in a car is so serious. I'm not equating a house to a car, just pointing out that solar gain is not to be armwaved or ignored, and is definitely your #1 load by a wide margin, maybe even by an order of magnitude.

So, your 1000sf (93 m²) house, is absorbing 50,000 watts of heat, or about 150,000 BTU/hr, from solar gain.

Yes, this is a stupidly large amount of energy.  Too bad we can't harness it for something, eh? :)

Insulation slows it down. But only slows it.  Given enough time, it still gets through.

Thermal "mass" works both for and against you.  The thermal mass inside the insulation envelope helps your house resist changes in temperature.  However the thermal mass outside the insulation envelope (roof, joists etc.) has been warmed by the sun all day, has reached 120-140F (50–60°C), and holds that heat for a few hours after sunset.  That means its high heat is still trying to push through the insulation even after the sun has gone down.  Conversely in the morning, even with full sun, you get some relief before the roof and joists heat up.

At least it's more efficient...

Your A/C unit interchanges with air, and in your case, you are saying the ultimate heat sink is cooler than the thing it's cooling.  That gives a heat pump an advantage; it is pushing heat "downhill".  You can check it with a load monitor (if the cycle length doesn't make it obvious), but you probably aren't using near as much power as on a hot-air day.

It's even better, of course, to interchange heat with groundwater. But that is a more specialty unit.


What can I use as caulk that a cat won't destroy?

Rub a little Tabasco™ sauce or other hot sauce of your choosing on the caulked joint. That will cure most critters of chewing on things they shouldn't.
Granted, it's a bit odd that the cat chooses to gnaw on silicone caulk, but usually a good hot sauce will kill the desire to eat the object.


Need help with wiring of in-line ventilation fan

Since you are running the wires back to the control unit anyway - I would run 4 wires back to the unit and connect them all including the ground in that location.

This should prevent any issue with ground loops.


I'd have no concerns at all in doing this, assuming a well-ventilated attic. Be sure you have a functioning backflow preventer to keep cold air out in winter. Being more dense, it'll have a tendency to fall into the room.


How do I extend electrical boxes 3 inches or more?

Old work electrical boxes are designed to mount directly to the drywall.  They have a flange that rotates out to grip the drywall from behind, pulling the box forward and tight against it:

When installing them, it's best to cut the opening with a knife (as opposed to a drywall router, say) so that the box fits snugly in the hole.


There are many possible causes but some of the more common ones are:

Clogged drain
Dirty filter
Excess humidity in the house
Blocked air return or outlet duct

Get it thawed out and make sure that the drain is flowing properly.  Check the filter, check the blower for any obstructions.


How much should I tighten the gauge on my heating oil tank?

Pipe thread differs from the type used on nuts and bolts. The threads on bolts are the same diameter from top to bottom. Pipe fittings have a smaller diameter at the bottom than at the top. Because of this the threads don't bottom out they just get tight. Based on the number of exposed threads I would say the fitting is tight enough. Oil tanks are vented to the atmosphere so there no issue of pressure buildup causing a leak.


Using a Radiator Space Heater to Support HVAC system

Will using an electric space heater improve the efficiency of a heat pump?

No. When the temperature drops below the operational range of the heat pump, resistive heaters are used to provide heat. This would be the same as a space heater. However when the heat pump is running the heat pump is far more efficient at heating than a space heater. Depending on the model, some heat pumps can operate into the low teens, and a few models into single digits, but the efficiency will be the same when on electric heat (called auxiliary or emergency heat). The one difference is you can chose to heat only one room instead of the whole house with a space heater and that could save $.


Can re-closing a circuit-breaker be dangerous?

When it first trips, you should first eliminate any causes for it to trip before resetting it.

A standard circuit breaker (not a GFCI or AFCI) will trip because too many amps are pulled. If this is powering outlets, then unplug everything on the circuit. If it still trips, then either you didn't notice the fork stuck in one of your outlets (I had an exciting childhood), the problem is with a hardwired appliance, or there's a short, and you should get an electrician out to diagnose.

If it doesn't trip with everything unplugged, then it could be an overloaded circuit, which would still require an electrician to run a new circuit. However, overloaded circuits often take a short time to trip, and it would more likely be a faulty device that you can detect by plugging things in one at a time until the breaker trips again. Note that if any wires or extension cords are worn or frayed, then they are a fire and electrocution hazard and should not be used.

If the breaker is a GFCI (typically seen with outdoor or bathroom/kitchen outlets), then in addition to triggering on amps, it can also trigger when current is going to a ground. You can try the same diagnosis as above, but realize that this is a significant risk of electrocution if you become a better ground than the path the current has already found.

If the breaker is an AFCI (typically seen in newer homes to bedroom outlets), then it can also be tripping because of a an arcing current, either from a short in the wiring, a frayed wire, etc. This is an immediate fire risk rather than the slightly slower fire risk you expose yourself to by overloading the wiring with too many amps.

In all cases, if you can't isolate it to a bad device that you can unplug, get an electrician out to diagnose and repair. The risk of fire or electrocution is too great.


How to remove hoses that are clamped to a water manifold in a hot-tub

Probably you should just replace all the hoses as well as the manifold, if the hoses are so set/stiff with age that they cannot be moved. That tends to be a step on the path to cracking and leaking. One big repair .vs. lots of smaller repairs over time.

You could try dunking the whole mess in hot water or using a hair dryer/heat gun to warm them up and make them more pliable.


How should I terminate a black plastic drain pipe?

You didn't mention if the drain pipe is accessible from under the floor. Assuming it does not pass directly through a concrete slab, the only safe way to terminate and seal the pipe from backwash and septic gas is to cut it off and glue the proper sized cap on with primer and PVC cement.  If and when you need to reinstall the drain, simply cut off the pipe again below the cap and use a coupling to continue the pipe run back to a new closet flange. Do not use a screw cap. They are for temp use or pressure testing only. The hardware can rust, loosen and leak.


If the construction adhesive is one of the type specified for metal usage then it should work just fine. Working just fine is also assuming that the plaster is solid and not a crumbly surface.

One issue with construction adhesive is that you would need to devise a way to hold the metal beading in place till the adhesive sets up. On the other hand contact cement, provided you find one that can work on the metal part, (I have used a 3M product that sprayed on to a stainless steel backer sheet behind a stove) is applied to both parts and set to dry for a short while. Then the metal piece could simply be pressed into place without need for clamping. With the contact cement you need to be sure to get your piece lined up right and press gradually into place from one end. Usually once it is stuck on it is there to stay so you do not get 2nd and 3rd chances to line things up.


At what Lead levels are respirators and hazmat suits required?

The magic words you want are "RRP", the EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting rules.  For a simple residential demolition that's all you need.  For details see http://www2.epa.gov/lead/renovation-repair-and-painting-program

Homeowners can take the RRP certification course (I did), but in most cases you'll want to ask the contractor for their RRP certification number, and ensure that the certified renovator is on site during the work. Every certified renovator is also a certified trainer, authorized to train and supervise the workers at a particular job site.

The level of lead in the paint does not matter at all under RRP rules.  And the hazard depends not on the level of lead, but rather the work practices used.  Sanding without a HEPA vacuum, for example, can put a huge amount of lead in the air even if the paint is relatively benign.

Note the gold standard for lead testing is not paint chip analysis, but rather XRF testing.  By investing in XRF testing you'll identify areas of the demolition that don't have lead at all, and thus don't need all that plastic, tape and other waste generated.


Best method for fixing chips in laminate flooring

The boards near the wall should be replaced before you install trim, if possible. No repair will completely hide the damage.
Most manufacturers provide a means of replacing interior boards. Consider that for a professional result.
Otherwise, the boards in the field could be touched up with some enamel paint. You'll have to experiment with a base color and accent/grain colors. A matte varnish (urethane) might help match sheen, which is a big part of the challenge.


Articulated arm wall-mount (13lb. LCD monitor), 25 gauge metal stud, 3/4" drywall

Point focused loads going into metal studs are not a good idea. You would be much better advised to install a piece of good quality 3/4" plywood to the wall that is big enough to span across two or three studs and have a height of about one stud spacing. Use multiple sheet metal stud screws to secure this plywood to the wall. Then you can install the bracket to this plywood with short large sized screws. If you drill proper sized pilot holes for the screws into the plywood they will have remarkable holding power. (You would not use those lag bolts that came with that bracket).

Note that the surface of the plywood will be a far better bearing surface for the bracket as well. If you installed the bracket directly against drywall there is a good chance that over time the stresses on the bracket back and forth will dig into the drywall and cause degradation of the wall surface and let the bracket get loose.

If good quality plywood is used it can be nicely sanded and painted to match the wall. It will be hardly noticeable behind the monitor.

If you have concern with the bracket screws just into 3/4" plywood you can always use the toggler bolts to hold the bracket to the plywood.


Installing thin slate (chalkboards) as countertops: proper method?

I would handle this as a tile countertop.  Instead of small 4x4 tiles you will be working with the larger slate sheets.  This means, 3/4 plywood down as a base.  Cement board on top of that and then thin set to attach the tiles.

You can then trim the outsides in whatever you want.  It can be wood, tile or metal.  You can also use the slate cut into smaller pieces to trim as well.

Once everything is set, you should then use grout to fill the gaps between the slate sheets.

Remember, just like tile you need a good solid base; so skip the MDF and use plywood.


Two words: clear silicone.

You can match any toilet to any floor effortlessly if you use the clear stuff. It transmits the colors of the toilet and the floor and doesn't create an ugly, wavy visual line.

I usually use a finger if I'm dealing with a larger gap. Silicone wipes off skin cleanly enough that it's not a problem. Try to fill the void fairly flatly so you're not pulling a lot of caulk along as you tool it out. Err on the side of too little.

Note: While I don't agree that toilets should be left completely uncaulked to show failure of the wax ring seal, I do think it's wise to leave the back portion open for that reason. It's often difficult to reach that area with a caulking gun anyway.


How much ventilation space does a refrigerator need?

This entirely depends on the refrigerator and where the coils and fans are.
Older refrigerators were cooled with fins on the back, and depended on convection (heat rising).  The heat of the coils would draw air through the lower grille, up the back, and over the top.  A modern unit might do all it's cooling with a fan pushing heat out at the front bottom plate.

Samsung's current models require 1" on top, half inch each side.  See : http://www.samsung.com/us/support/faq/FAQ00021650/21818/Y/RB197ABPN/XAA

Keep in mind your cabinet is now built to fit just one size refrigerator: just hope that size is available in fifteen years when your current model is no longer repairable due to planned obsolescence.  Front venting units are also somewhat less efficient, all other factors held constant.

It's common to have the cabinet above the fridge a bit less deep than the others, to allow for airflow.


My successful electrical weekend project ended with a 3-way from hell! Help

Back stabing = fire waiting to happen or paying someone like me to fix it!

1 screw 1 wire same reason!
Must pigtail the wires properly with proper means
Loose connections burn down building!

3way switch line goes to dark screw of one switch, load goes to dark screw of other switch. The other 2wires between the two switches go to the 2 light colored screws,  either or, doesn't matter

If you remove a 3way switch, and tie the 3 wires together the load will be energized

No breakers tripped, still no power, device or wire burnt in half


Dedicated Hot Water Recirculating System Woes

This is quite the puzzle.

Things I noticed...

*** "Turned off the recirculating pump (and ball valve before and after pump). Endless hot water but hot water pressure throughout the house is dramatically reduced"

If you don't have a hot water circulating pump (not the recirc pump in your pictures), the hot water pressure comes from the cold water input to the water heater.  This says you have a restriction in either your cold water line to the heater, after it splits off the cold water supply, or the hot water line coming out of the heater; I suspect in the hot water line or water heater itself.

*** "I have turned the pump off (electrically) and left all valves open (recirculating and public water valves open). I get full pressure and hot water goes cold after 30 seconds."

I suspect, like @jwh20, the cold water is going backwards through the recirc pump.  I think the brass fitting with the white ring on the outlet side of the pump is a check valve.  It should prevent the higher pressure cold water from going back through the pump, but it's either leaking or failed altogether.

It seems that the hot water line puts out enough for the recirc pump to get hot water up to the fixture, but when you turn on the fixture it draws more water than the hot side can provide.  Because the cold water supply is closer to the recirc pump connection than the hot water tank is, it overpowers the hot water coming out the bottom of the tank and sends cold back through the (bad check valve and) recirc line straight to the fixture's hot side.  The combination of cold water from the recirc'd "hot" line and the cold water line gives you full pressure at the fixture.

*** "Turning pump on and recirculating line valves on, but close the public water valve at the tank, the water pressure slowly reduces as does the temperature (turning the shower faucet valve to cold does not increase the pressure ...just above a trickle)."

It sounds like you have a single lever shower valve that's trying to compensate for the cold water by reducing the cold and increasing the hot but, because the supply into the water heater is shut off there's no pressure in the hot water lines.

The reason the water pressure slowly reduces is the hot water tank and the expansion tank (the large bottle-looking thing in your pictures) have air in them under pressure.  As the water drains out of the water heater, the pressure drops until it's too low to push the water to the faucet.

To help isolate what's going on...

As @Fresh Codemonger suggested, put a pressure guage on the hose bib (faucet) under the water heater gas valve.  With the recirc pump off, recirc pump valves closed, and fixtures all off it will show you what the supply pressure is to the water heater.  I would expect around 60-90 psi.
Turn a fixture on full cold.  From what you've described, you should get sustained full pressure at the fixture.  How much does the cold supply pressure drop?  I'd expect not more than about 10 psi for a shower or faucet with an aererator, more for a hose bib like an outside faucet or clothes washer.  I'd still expect 40-60 psi at the water heater inlet.
Have a helper switch the fixture to full hot.  From what you've described, you'll get low flow but constant hot water.  What is the pressure into the water heater at this point?
Turn on the recirc pump valves, but not the pump, still running full hot, and I think you'll see the pressure at the fixture go up and the temperature go down as cold water flows back through the recirc line.  The pressure into the water heater should be very close to what it was on #3 above, maybe a couple psi lower.
Turn off the fixture.  With the supply line to the heater, and both recirc pump valves, open check the pressure into the heater.  Now turn on the recirc pump.  The pressure should rise only slightly.  That pump puts out a max of about 7.5 psi (15 ft head).  If the pressure rises anywhere near this, you have a noticable restriction between the pump outlet and the fixture, probably between the water heater outlet and where it splits to the house.  If the pressure drops more than a fraction of a psi you may have a blockage between the recirc pump outlet and the water heater, which I don't expect.
If you have a way to check the flow coming out of the water heater, before it gets to a fixture, that would help narrow down where the restriction is.  If you can't check it before the first fixture, start testing fixtures closer and closer to the heater to see if you find a point that one has full flow but the next one doesn't.

My suspicions...

How old is that water heater?  Per https://www.familyhandyman.com%2Fplumbing%2Fwater-heater%2Fhow-to-repair-or-replace-defective-water-heater-dip-tubes%2F&usg=AOvVaw3z5n36r511mBdXmdLJeIMa , some water heaters, particularly those made between 1993 and 1997 may have a dip tube failure.  The plastic tubes crumble and little bits of plastic get washed through the hot water lines, clogging up valves and faucets.  "Often, the first four numbers on the serial number are the month and year of manufacture. If the third and fourth numbers are 93, 94, 95, 96 or 97, it could be affected."

I suspect something like this has clogged your line between the water heater and the house, and that little bits have been washed into the check valve between your recirc pump and the water heater, allowing cold water to flow backwards through it.

One way to check for this is to stop all hot water use for about 24 hours, at least overnight, then drain 5 gallons or more out of the bottom of the tank (your hose bib will do nicely) into a bucket.  Let the water settle for 10-30 minutes or more and check for any plastic bits.  They may be floating or on the bottom, and most any size from a grain of sand to 1/2".  You may also empty the bucket through a strainer with some nylon hose to help look for them.  If your heater is old and you see any of these bits, seriously look into replacing the heater.  You may also have to work at flushing your hot water system and cleaning or replacing that check valve after the recirc pump.

I've run across this once with one made around 1995.  It was maddening trying to backflush all the hot water lines in the house without letting the debris also flow back into the cold supply.


What could be wrong with gas fireplace that turns off when I turn it on?

My first guess would be the thermocouple is bad, or going bad.  The thermocouple is a small device that generates electricity from heat, they are used in gas furnaces and such to shut off the gas in case the pilot goes out (so gas doesn't continue to flow and fill the room).

I admit I'm no expert when it comes to gas fire places, but I had an old gas heater that displayed similar issues and it turned out replacing the thermocouple fixed the problem.  Besides they are usually fairly cheap (a couple dollars maybe), so it's a good place to start trouble shooting.


Relay requirements for Heatpump Thermostat

Don't forget the reversing valve!

While a normal air conditioner outdoor unit only needs a single control signal to it to turn the compressor (and condenser fan) on and off, a heat pump needs a minimum of two control signals: one for turning the compressor on and off, and a second for the reversing valve that selects whether the heat pump is heating or cooling.  Furthermore, there's no set standard for which "way" the reversing valve signal works.  Most heat pumps use an "O" signal, often keyed to an orange wire, that is energized to put the heat pump in cooling mode; however, Rheem/Ruud units use a "B" signal, often keyed to a blue wire (with a different color used for C), that is energized to put the heat pump in heating mode, instead.


Is it OK to use powdered graphite to lubricate a garage door opener?

Powered graphite will be very messy.  I still recommend spray on white lithium grease or garage door lube from PB Blaster.  Both products are great for the chain, rollers, and roller channels.  Never use WD 40 or any type of oils.


How to frame steel studs parallel to concrete ceiling "joists"

Without a picture, I am guessing you want to frame a wall out of steel studs and you are asking how to fasten the track between the concrete beams. The only way to do this is to either run your wall all the way up to the slab, or to span the concrete beams perpendicular with a piece of track or stud. Just cut tongues on either side of the track and install it legs up with a shutgun or rotohammer every four feet. Once you have these up you can secure your top track to this. You won't need to do this at either end of the track since the end stud, which should be attached to the wall will hold the track.


How do I make my room stop smelling so bad?

Smells don't just appear out of nowhere.  Something in your room is the source of the smell (dirty laundry, rotten food, etc).  Find the source and remove it.  If you can't identify it (too used to it?), then ask your parents to look for it.

If the smell seems to be everywhere in the room, consider deep-cleaning the carpets.  (Buy/Rent a cleaner, or have a cleaning service come in.)

If you can't remove the source, all you can do is mitigate.

Leave the door to your room open to avoid stagnant air.  Even if something is only mildly stinky, if you leave it in a sealed off room, the smell will permeate the room.

Consider getting an Air Purifier, which will churn the air in your room and filter it a bit.  Make sure you stay on top of cleaning/replacing the filter in the unit.

If the smell is a musty/humid smell, consider a Dehumidifier.  You will need to empty the drain pan periodically, or attach a drain line to your plumbing.  You can also use Damp Rid.

Also, consider that the source of the smell may be you.  Your parents may be trying to politely tell you something.  Do you bathe every day?  Do you wash your hair regularly (at least once every 2-3 days)?  Do you put on a fresh change of clothes every day?  Do you wear antiperspirant/deodorant?  If you answer "no" to any of the above, it may be time to re-visit your hygiene.


If you are sure you will not need the sump fill and pack it with dirt until ~4” from the top then a few bags of sackcrete can be mixed up and poured so the floor is usable. Finishing a small area like his would not be hard and that would cover the hole.


How can I raise the level of an existing paved patio?

You could probably add another layer of pavers right over that old patio, it can support the weight. The other option would be to removed all the slabs, then add and compact down an inch or two layer of stone dust to raise the area.


Replacing Outlet with Switch Middle of Run

This will work fine. Switch loops are for when the power comes in at the fixture, its not applicable here.
One word of caution, you can't just go around removing outlets, the old 6 foot rule. You could install a two gang box and keep the outlet there or just install another one right below the exiting one, easy to just drop down the /2 cable.


Should I remove old wood glue before reinstalling a board on a table, and how?

If you want to use wood glue again, I'd remove the old glue. You'll get a stronger bond if you apply glue to clean wood. A belt sander would do a nice job.

If you're ok using urethane glue or project adhesive, the only concern is whether the replaced board will sit above the others. Otherwise I'd have no problem bonding to the old glue if it appears solid.

You could also run some countersunk flat-head screws of appropriate length in from underneath to assure the security of the boards.


What can I do if my water cannot be turned off?

The main cause of valves becoming stuck is when they are opened fully and left there. The correct way is to open them fully and then close them half a turn or so.

This enables a little 'wiggle' room for the valve when it slowly becomes stuck again over the years. A valve stuck hard against the stops is very difficult to persuade to move again.

On stuck valves I always use a penetrating lube the day before, WD40 or such like. Try a little gentle tapping around the valve with a timber stick at the same time as trying to 'rock' the valve back and forth.

Some valve designs have a nut which can be slightly loosened to relieve pressure on the seal/washer etc. Be prepared for some small weeping/leaking when the valve finally moves.

Use extra leverage like wrenches at your peril, you might get away with it or it could go horribly wrong...


What size air conditioner for a ~230 square foot room with 10 foot ceilings?

The EPA has room size to BTU chart with some caveats for certain situations:

https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=roomac.pr_properly_sized

  Room size            A/C size
  ---------------     ------------
  100 up to   150 ->  5,000 BTU/hr
  150 up to   250 ->  6,000 BTU/hr
  250 up to   300 ->  7,000 BTU/hr
  300 up to   350 ->  8,000 BTU/hr
  350 up to   400 ->  9,000 BTU/hr
  400 up to   450 -> 10,000 BTU/hr
  450 up to   550 -> 12,000 BTU/hr
  550 up to   700 -> 14,000 BTU/hr
  700 up to 1,000 -> 18,000 BTU/hr
1,000 up to 1,200 -> 21,000 BTU/hr
1,200 up to 1,400 -> 23,000 BTU/hr
1,400 up to 1,500 -> 24,000 BTU/hr
1,500 up to 2,000 -> 30,000 BTU/hr
2,000 up to 2,500 -> 34,000 BTU/hr

  Make any adjustments for the following circumstances:

  If the room is heavily shaded, reduce capacity by 10 percent.
  If the room is very sunny, increase capacity by 10 percent.
  If more than two people regularly occupy the room, add 600 BTUs for each additional person.
  If the unit is used in a kitchen, increase capacity by 4,000    BTUs.
  Consider where you install the unit. If you are mounting an air    conditioner near the corner of a room, look for a unit that can send
  the airflow in the right direction.

If you fall into any of those special situations, that may help you with sizing. Otherwise, since you're between sizes of available units, unless your climate is particularly mild, I'd go up a size to allow a bit extra cooling capacity for hot days.


How do I mount a 70" TV to wall when the studs are in the wrong place?

Most every mount I've seen has several holes through which it can be secured to studs. This is to account for different stud spacing, as well as allow for several lateral positions so that the TV is not off center.

Double check your mount instructions, to ensure it will not accommodate your stud spacing. I'm very suspicious that the mount says it must be mounted between studs, as you want that kind of load directly into at least one stud.

If it won't, then attaching 3/4" plywood to the studs, and the mount to the plywood, is indeed the way to go.


What would cause my filtered water to have a thin transparent film suspended in it?

Are you on a city water system, or a well?  Do you get the film from your tap?  If not, then it's something in the water line to the fridge, or in the filter.  In my whirlpool fridge, the "reservoir" for the chilled water is simply a coiled up roll of the plastic tubing.  Clean out the fridge, and take a look at that to see if you can see any obvious discoloration or contamination - it should be clear.  You could try replacing the tubing if you're suspicious.

If there nothing else obvious, then I'd try changing the filter, and run water through the new filter for a bit to clean everything out of the lines.  The filter, after all, is designed to collect gunk from the water, and if it's been a while, it could simply be full.


How does an external tower style bathtub drain work?

It's called a "standing waste".  It works just like you say.  The cone at the base of the inner tube seals against a flange and the water must fill the outer tube (attached to your floor) before (over)flowing down the inner tube.  Here's a pic since words are useless for describing this kind of thing.

Here's some in-depth discussion on resolving a clog on one of these.

if you see water in the tube at the same height as in the tub, you should snake down the tube.  If not, the blockage is between the drain and the standing waste and you should snake down the tub drain.

I suspect the blockage is downstream of the standing waste since the plunger was ineffective.  Try sealing the top of the standing waste tube while plunging before resorting to the snake.


What size wire do I need to run for 10 100 amp Rv hookup with individual breakers off a 400 amp service at 420 feet to the last pole?

You should aim to keep voltage drop under 5% or close to it.

Given the voltage drop and statutory requirements, you'd be best to run at least 750 or 800 kcmil aluminum wire.  At 320A actual flow, you'll have 3.7% voltage drop for the 240' from the supply to the first RV stand.

Using copper wire for such a large run is a waste of money, aluminum is fine for feeder.

You would not be able to splice such large wire to an RV stand directly, so you should come into a distribution panel there, or a little past there.  From there, branch to the various stands.  Each 50A stand must have at least #6 copper or #4 aluminum wire, and I would bump 2 sizes for every 100'.  If you want 2 stands back to back for 100A, try #1 aluminum.   You can run it through a voltage drop calculator to see What wire to use for a particular voltage drop.   The calculator I linked doesn't do very well with 400A circuits, but it's fine in the numbered cable ranges.


Likelihood of asbestos under newer ceiling texture?

The only way to tell if a ceiling contains asbestos is to take a sample and have it tested.  There is lots of "popcorn texture" (Artex in the UK) which doesn't have asbestos and some that does.


How should I drain water from a basement dehumidifier?

The simplist solution to dehumidifying in an area with no drain is to use a dehimidifier with a built in pump such as this one:

It has a long thin tube that can be routed to an area with a drain (such as a washing machine drainpipe) or to the outside (through a window frame or a very small hole drilled through the wall).  If to the outside, you need to direct it away from the foundation.

There are a few versions available and they tend to cost a good bit more than a simple tank type, but the convenience may make it worthwhile.

If you already have a good dehumidifier and don't want the expense of replacing it, you may be able to use an add-on dehumidifier pump such as this one

It is hooked up to the demidifier and then uses a thin tube to move the water in the same manner as a pumping dehumidifier.


Can I run PEX directly into my clothes washer?

Aside from the fact that I don’t think it would be allowed by code it would be inconvenient and if there was ever a problem with the mechanics inside your machine and water started spewing out all over your floor you wouldn’t have a way to shut it off or disconnected easily.

Trying to save money now may cost you more money in the long run.

Buy stainless steel braided hoses and if you’re still worried get an auto shut off water detection system.

Do it right once or do it wrong once and then do it right the second time.


We have the same issue.  There is a pilot light. Runs on LP.  Pilot does not go out but the flames go out and then in a little bit it comes back on.  No other light switches are being turned on/off and there is no battery in the unit.  We found that when it is turned at a lower setting it happens far more often.  But it will go from flames 8 inches high to off in 1 second and then after about 2-3 minutes it comes back on.
If we turn it to a higher setting the problem goes away and the fireplace stays lit.  Because the pilot doesn't go out we know it's not air in the lines or a main regulator issue.


Wiring bath lights that have two power sources

No to Q1, switching both lights, unless you get the same power that the existing light switches to be in parallel with the fan light.  That would mean running the same gauge 12 or 14 -2 (hot, neutral and ground ) to the fan light from the overhead light.

Combining circuits risks having 240 VAC across your fixtures.  It can be done, if neutrals and ungrounded (hots) are kept separate (from each other and not connected through a device section to another.

Maybe to question 2, if you mean using the one (original power source) to switch fan, light, fanlight together.  (this assumes the added device wattage doesn't exceed the wire capacity.

You would be better served by biting-the-bullet and put in a new switch box and use the separate power available and get all 3 functions separately   Am I guessing correctly that the bath outlet is on the same circuit as the light and they are 14 gauge??  One hairdryer-light-fan-fan light will likely overdraw a 15A breaker


What types of flooring can be used with electric radiant heat?

Some electric radiant systems can be used with laminate floors, e.g. http://www.suntouch.com/mats/, or even floating/engineered wood floors according to http://www.thermosoft.com/radiant-floor-heat/ .

Laminate might be a good option as it can flex and is easy to install. Check with the radiant heating manufacturer to ensure you're using a flooring and adhesive that are compatible with the floor heat, but I doubt the temperature will be a problem -- radiant floor heat probably doesn't get much hotter than your floor would naturally get on a hot summer's day with the windows open.


click lock floor install with hot water baseboard heat

Molding is mostly for aesthetic purposes, so you can do whatever you think looks acceptable. With a floating floor, the baseboard hides the edge since generally there's a gap. Presumably you'll have to reattach all your baseboard molding after putting the new floor down.

I'd say if you can see underneath the radiator when you are standing in the room, you should probably install baseboard.

If the issue is the molding no longer fits, then trim the top edge off (assuming you can't see that unless you put your head down level with the radiator), or install a different type of molding there (such as just quarter-round).

If you can't really see underneath the radiator from any standing/sitting positions in the room, then you can get away without installing it, but I'd at least put some quarter-round up to keep dirt and dust from collecting in the expansion gap.


Small red brick wall area to hold L brackets

To support loads at the edge of the table, your brackets apply a torque to the wall. Let's say you're using two brackets, and 3/4 of the 50kg is on the edge of the 25" deep table (maybe it isn't, but someday someone's going to lean on it...)

The top anchor bolt in the bracket pulls out from the wall, and the bottom edge of the bracket pushes in, generating the needed torque. The brackets are 4" tall, so let's say the distance from the top bolt to the bottom edge is 3". That means the 50kg weight at the table edge will be multiplied by (25" / 3"), or about a factor of 8, meaning the brackets will be pulling on those top bolts with a force of about 400kg. Yes, there are two brackets, but that's still 200kg per bolt, pulling straight out. Even if the brackets could hold that, the bolts won't.

You need to increase the distance between that top and bottom support points. You could do this by making the bracket taller, by having the bracket extend above the table somehow, or just by hanging the front edge of the table from cables extending up to the sides of the windows. Otherwise, it may be pretty, but it will be pretty breakable as well.


Your 200 amp service can supply your 150 amp water heater. But will anything else in your house require power at the same time? Such as a microwave, room or house heater, room or house air conditioner, stove or oven? Have you considered using the 24 instead of the 36?


Is adding a Time Delay/Dual Element Fuse a good idea for pump motor install

There is no real need to put a 10A fuse on it in addition to the breaker. The 20A breaker will be enough protection regarding overload and short circuits.

The only recommendation I would give is to put it on a GFCI because it's for a pump in a presumably wet location.


You likely need a new pump.

Submersible pumps are often filled with a non-conductive mineral oil.  If the oil is no longer in the pump, the pump is probably dead.


Can I fish electrical down to the basement to add a new outlet?

Electricity doesn't care much whether it runs vertically or horizontally (it really only cares how far it runs).

Often the easiest way to add an outlet or switch is to run it down through a basement or up through an attic. So long as the cable is properly buried in the wall cavities and you don't unreasonably compromise structural members, there should be no problem.

This assumes, of course, that you are not overloading a circuit, that you are using the proper gauge of wire, and that any exposed cabling is in a permitted area (usually an unfinished basement or attic is okay under most local codes).  You also need to make sure cables are properly tacked down and not subject to damage, and that as you drill, you are not hitting other cables, pipes, or leaving hidden cables too close to a surface where they might get damaged in the future.


What's wrong with my thermostat (fan / limit control)?

Looking at your thermostat specs etc, I assume it is a basic bimetallic rotary spring operated mechanism with manual SPST switching. since you can operate it to "on" and you know the contacts close in manual mode, and when physically turned/twisted, I suggest a couple of tests to verify operation of the bi metal spring. Disconnect the electrical power. Use an air heat gun to blow on the sensor unit and watch to see if actuator moves in the switch housing as you would expect.  Connect an Ohm meter across the load/fan terminals. As the temp rises, the ohms should change from infinite/open to 0 ohms/closed when contacts close at the set limit. Although this is not a calibrated test, it will verify that the spring is responding to temp changes. If this test works properly and you are satisfied the unit is working, I may suggest you look at where you are trying to sense the heat from the wood stove. It may be that the area you have selected to mount the thermostat is not seeing enough heat from the stove. you may have to monitor the temp closer to the flue or at an area that radiates heat better. You may also have to fabricate some type of small plenum directly on the surface of the stove for the sensor to mount into. In that I mean just the spring/temp sensor assembly, not the actual electrical switch assembly.  Good luck.


Realistically, could you build a useful built in closet in a space that is 77.5in x 9.4in?

That is a very shallow space. I think you'd need at least a couple of inches for your doors / front wall, so you're looking at less than 8" deep for the final closet.

You might be better off just installing built-in shelving and/or hooks on that part of the wall to serve as storage space. You could make the shelves 8" deep and then put a sheer curtain over it, if you want to avoid looking at it.


best way to install a flat wall fixture on a sightly curved wall

Maybe you can fix some adhesive felt pads ( like you would use under furniture legs) to the back outside edges of your rack to compensate for the curve. These would act like wedges to bridge the bow and not scratch the plaster wall.


How to connect Dryer outlet to a power distribution unit?

The cost of a properly protected temporary power distribution unit would significantly exceed that of installing a proper circuit.
Can it be done by code? Yes it can. (I have not looked into 2020 code as it is not yet adopted but believe the same requirements apply + the 240gfci).
I have built one for a young man that wanted the same thing in a rental house.
The 120v laundry circuit is dedicated.
I did not think this would be code compliant so I checked with one of my inspectors.
He reminded me that my portable power outlets used for building houses are basically the same thing.
They have breakers on the unit and each receptacle is GFCI protected. Everything connected to it is cord connected and not built in. So I built one based on 30 amps he was able to run 4 of his servers / OR the dryer. I believe we were on the 2014 code today that would require a GFCI on the dryer also even if the dryer is an older install without GFCI because this as a temporary install it could only be used for 90 days.  He stressed the 90 days and said who doesn't rearrange things every quarter anyway.
As a temporary installation for equipment that is cord connected it could be done but the cost was well over 3x that of an installed set of branch circuits.
I used a Hoffman box to house the 50a DPDT switch I used for the transfer and 5 receptacles inside the box was a small breaker panel fed on 1 side of the switch to the GFCI protected receptacles, the other side went to the dryer receptacle.
The only change I know of would be the requirement for the 240v receptacle to have GFCI protection but as a temporary setup I don’t see why it could not be done.  Note temporary is defined as 90 days and that would be the only way it would be legal.