Old switch tripping breaker after a different one was replaced

If you have a switch that is tripping two breakers. Then chances are somewhere in your circuitry you have caused a phase to phase short. Re-examine the switch you replaced and see if you can find where you have crossed the phases. It wouldn't hurt to have a voltmeter with you so you can measure any wires where you are reading 240V between conductors. Or by turning your tripped breakers on and off you can see which conductors are crossing over.

Even if it's not at your switch, it's really just a matter of tracing out each tripped circuit and finding where they are intersecting. It's also very possible that the short is connected through a neutral.

Good luck

Also see Harpers comment on devices.


Completely remove nicotine stains and odors from walls?

For walls you definitely want to wash with HOT water and a hefty mix if tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). Make sure to wear good rubber work gloves that cover some of your arms as well. TSP exposure can be quite hard in the skin of your hands. It can also be helpful to rinse after the wash with a clear wash of warm water. This is necessary because the smoking deposits on the wall are not a good candidate for paint adhesion. TSP on the other hand actually will take some of the gloss on old paint layer making an improved surface to which to apply a primer.

I reclaimed a house from a very heavy smoker family and had to also remove all the popcorn textured ceiling material. It had to be scraped off to the bare ceiling drywall. Then the ceiling needed to be sealed with a clear sealer material to seal in stains and the odors that had worked their way up into the drywall.

In my case the smoking smell had even permeated up into the attic space and the insulation up there. I had to install a gable end attic fan that I let run continuously for months to reduce the smell of the insulation.


What are reasonable expectations about grout width accuracy in a professional tile installation?

There may or may not be an easy answer to your question. I would start by calling the grout and tile manufacturers to get their opinion. In general though... You should reasonably expect to get the quality of service you contracted and paid for.

Bottom line is do you think you're getting what you paid for. Not what you think you paid for. If you hire the best electrician in your area to paint your kitchen, don't expect to have the best painted kitchen in town. If you don't hire someone who specializes in tile installations, don't expect to have the best tile work either. If you hire the best tile setter you should expect to have an amazing tile job. You should always check references and try to see examples of their work from the people that you found them through so you have an expectation on the general quality of their work.

Looks like a 3x9" tile (or somewhere around there) which results in a lot of grout lines. On top of that you want thin grout lines. It all adds up to a difficult tile installation. At what point was the contractor aware of the tile you were using? Was it when you spec'd the job or the day he showed up to lay the tile? Usually there's a little bit of blame on both sides.

I'm just a DIY'er but I would have used more tile spacers than he appears to have used (based on the marks in the mortar not the spacers in the photo) and would have scooped out any excess mortar in the joints and off the faces of the tile before everything dried. There may however be other issues that affected the spacing that were outside his control or the budget for the project.

Things may look different (better or worse) once the grout is in. Maybe you want to put grout in a small section before the rest of the tile is laid to get a better idea. If you're not happy talk to your contractor to see what can be done. Depending on the situation it's probably fair that both parties eat some of the cost to redo (or not.) Or just get a different contractor.

Update

Found this info from the Tile Council of North America's FAQ There are also apparently some ANSI Standards on this.

  What is the standard for variations in grout joints?

  When evaluating grout joints, it is important to consider that the
  grout is used to adjust for differences in the following:

  Variations in the size of the tile Changes in the plane of the
  substrate Changes in the thickness of the tile (often this applies to
  hand-molded tile) Variations in the rustic profile of the tile The
  standards for the manufacture of tile allow for variation from tile to
  tile. While the standard details this exactly, it is not uncommon for
  some manufacturers to ship tile with about 3/32" difference between
  the largest and smallest tiles in a box.

  Grout must adjust for these differences between tiles so
  understandably there can be some variation in the width of a grout
  joint.

  Generally, it is advisable to use a grout joint at least two times the
  average difference between the largest tiles and the smallest tiles. A
  smaller joint will exacerbate the differences between tiles as the
  human eye can readily see very small differences as a percentage of
  the total grout joint. For example, while a difference of a 1/16" of
  an inch may seem small on a 12" tile, this is readily apparent
  compared to a 1/8" grout joint.

  As the plane of the tile changes, the grout joint allows for this
  change. Should tile go over a hump in the floor, the grout joint will
  open; when tile follows a depression in the floor, the grout joint
  will narrow.

  Clearly, grout joints also accommodate both changes in the thickness
  and profile of rustic, hand-molded tile.

  Perhaps due to these variables, there is not a numerical standard to
  which the tile grout joint must conform.

  ANSI A108.02, Section 4.3.8 of the ANSI A108 standard says, "Nominal
  centerline of all joints should be straight and of even width with due
  allowances for hand-molded or rustic tiles."

  ANSI A108.02, Section 4.3.10 addresses variations in the plane of the
  tilework. This section states, "Finish floor and wall areas level and
  plumb with no variations exceeding ¼" in 10 feet from the required
  plane."

  However, it should be noted, elsewhere in the standards the plane of
  the subfloor is required to be similarly flat.

  Tile installed by the thinset method is really a surface finish that
  will follow the plane of the substrate. As such, variations in the
  substrate will be reflected in the tile layer, unless additional
  leveling is performed.


How to install invisible pet fence in frozen ground?

First thing first, do NOT use a reciprocating saw for this as this is dangerous and you could end up seriously injured.

If looking for something to make this easy, what you need is a trencher - you can probably rent one from your local home improvement store.  It will look something like this (there are smaller models but I couldn't find a good picture).  If you can't rent one, maybe try contacting a sprinkler installer to see if they could come do it for you.

EDIT: Found a smaller one, looks like this:

(source: terrasaw.co.nz)

Alternatively, as others have mentioned, you could just lay it on top of the ground for the short-term.  And of course, some back-breaking labor would also accomplish the job.


When I did my shower, I lined it up so the Hardi/drywall seam was about 1" before the edge of my shower tiles. Then I just covered this seam with mesh tape and thinset. So when I laid tile, it overlaid onto the drywall by about 1". I then used a caulk matched to the grout color run along the outside edge of the tile where it met drywall.

The tile edge is a good 5" outside of the tub, so I wasn't too concerned with water getting through the grout onto the drywall.

This gave me a nice clean edge and avoided having to try to get tape/mud smooth on the hardibacker. I've never had any expansion issues with the different materials.


You won't get cheaper or easier than two layers of sheet lumber. Particle board is a common component in 30-minute fire doors (though they usually have a hardwood veneer).

I'd do just as you plan. Sand or route a bullnose all the way around and seal it with a couple coats of urethane, smoothing with steel wool between.


Code requirements for the proximity of Power outlets to wash machine water outlets?

Ok so after doing some searching I found two posts very similar to what I needed.

The only code requirement seems to be the distance with in 6 feet of the dryer or washer - other than that no other requirement.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/proximity-of-washer-dryer-outlets-to-washer-valves-tub.33541/


Replacing carbon block filters in deionization (Ion Exchange) system annual maintenance

According to a local expert, and the manual...

Both granulated carbon and carbon blocks should be rinsed down for ~5 bed depths (enough water to fill and empty the sump or tank 5 times).  This is to remove carbon fines which may otherwise make it through the filter and to rinse out any byproducts from the creation of the carbon that would otherwise be taken out by the resin and partially spend it’s capacity. If the tank is large enough*, larger than .25 cb. ft, there will not be any noticeable difference from a 10” carbon cartridge being rinsed into it. The rinsing time is just 5-10 minutes is all.  You may see some cloudiness or bubbles in the water for up to 1-2 weeks but that will rinse out with time.  The bubbles are just a product of how porous the carbon is and it takes some time to rinse all of it out.

*their base model is a .15 cuft


How can I increase deck board gap without removing the boards?

You could install three identical blades in your circular saw with the teeth staggered, then run that down the channel. The saw should follow the gap fairly well, but you'll want to brace the saw with a firm grip to prevent wobble and keep things looking very straight. This should get you about 5/16". Be sure to set the depth properly to avoid damaging your joists, and be aware of the increased tendency for kickback.

Find a roundover router bit with a small guide that just fits the gap, and run that down as well. If you're lucky you can just run once in each direction (this reduces fibrous texture with softwood). If the bit guide is too narrow you'll need to go both directions while in contact with each board.

I'd actually borrow or rent a random-orbit (plate style) floor sander and get things level beforehand. If the boards aren't perfectly flat with respect to each other your bullnose will vary quite a bit.


Any hidden disadvantage to lever-type door latches?

It‘s interesting how these things differ among cultures!

In Europe (Germany for sure, but I never observed a difference in other European countries) basically all doors have levers. Here you install a knob only when you need the feature that it becomes more difficult open a door for pets and toddlers.

However, in most of these cases you can already get away with putting the handle upright, so knobs are really rare.


I hope you don't have many rooms which are 4'x4'!:  That's worse than any college dorm room I ever saw.  :-)

The dimensions given for a room depend on the purpose of the measurement.  For example, for real estate advertising purposes each room is usually simplified into rectangles to the nearest foot.  Few would care that an "oval room" of 16' x 25' is exactly 314.15927 square feet, vs. a rectangular approximation of 15 x 20 which is 300 square feet.  However, measuring a room to install a carpet requires much greater precision, usually to the half inch (if not better).

For measuring a non-rectangular area, generally the best method is to break it into rectangles and add those together.

For example,

The area of this L-shaped room can be calculated in any of several ways:

Take the whole area and subtract the "hole":  22 x 24 - 12 x 14
Add the long top space and the little piece below it:  24 x 10 + 10 x 12
Add the tall space at left plus the piece at right:  10 x 22 + 10 x 14

These all evaluate to 360 square units.


Electric Garage heater contactor failure

You're overloading the contactor. 7500 watts at 240 volts is 30+ amps, and the contactor you're using is rated for 22 amps.

You have three choices:

Get a different contactor.
Follow the manufacturer instructions to change the wattage of the heater to 5000 watts or less.
Use the internal thermostat of the heater.


How can I fix a large gap between wall and countertop caused by bowed walls?

Scribe it. Use a compass (or a stick with a pencil attached to it) set to the widest gap - run the compass or stick-with-pencil along the wall, marking the countertop a set distance out from the wall. Cut along the line - if done carefully, the wavy edge of the countertop should now fit the wavy wall precisely.


Tell if hardwood floor is oiled or laquered

Oil has no body so the wood grain is just a tiny layer of oil away if you pick an area out of view when you scratch oil it actually will damage the wood,

Lacquering or varnishes like varithane have body and a layer above the wood that can look like a magnifying glass to the grain and when scratched it usually turns color yellow / white this is the layer of “paint” to use your words. You may get a better idea by looking at photos online of oil finished verse varathane most times once you know it is easy to see.


Does a water heater consume more or less power if one element isn't working?

It depends on which element is bad.

Water is drawn off the top of the water heater, a dip tube brings cold water to near the bottom. This is done because heat rises, so as the water is heated the hot water works it's way down to the bottom.

An electric tank style water heater uses two elements that work in sequence. As hot water is used the top element kicks on, if a lot is used then the temperature falls lower and lower inside the tank. As the temp drops physically in the tank the upper thermostat flips down to turn on the lower thermostat turning on the lower element. Once the lower portion is satisfied then it flips back up to turn on the upper element. Once that is satisfied the unit turns off.

So...... if the usage is low, like one person and short showers, and the lower element is bad, you may never even know it since you may hardly ever use enough hot water to turn on the lower element. If the upper element is bad then you may never have enough properly hot water at all.

So it is really not a matter of losing one out of two elements will take twice as long. It is much more complicated than that.


How can I alter these wooden towel hooks so that the towels don't fall off?

Find more twine or rope (looks like a natural sisal) that matches the "laces" on the shoes. Wrap the twine around the posts in a spiral until they are completely covered. You will probably need to glue the twine occasionally, and perhaps rough up the paint so the glue sticks.

The twine in the picture looks like it is waxed. I would make sure to use non-waxed if you are going to wrap the posts, otherwise the towels would still probably slip right off.


What kind of pipe should I install between my water meter and my house plumbing?

You should be able to replace the flex pipe  with a 3/4" PVC pipe using a threaded 3/4" connector. For a easier installation use a 3/4" union fitting at the meter. You could also install a shutoff valve at the same time.


What is the generic term for kitchen counter laminate without particle board?

Try Formica (brand name) available in homedepot


Why is there two sets of black and white wires connected together in my wall?

It could be a switch loop, that box would be legal as a junction if a cover was installed. I would want to clean that up with wire nuts and tuck the wires in the box and add a cover.


Should I notch 4x4 post for 2x8 porch beams?

I understand you drawing. It is not using single point projection, as many of us learnd in drafting.  It is OK! IMHO (in my humble opinion) I would not use a 4x4 to sit a front & side rail 2x8 on top of, with no notch (not great) or a notch (worse). If this is for a porch, correct?  You are going from a burried concrete pier, or a precast concrete pier, going up 1-3 feet?  I would use no less than a 6x6 or 8x8 with no notch.  Go to the top of the 2x8's and use at least 3 - 5/8" diameter bolts. No counter sinking either, but use carriage bolts. They have the button top, with a square shank, then the bol. Get bolts 1" longer than you need, only drill to the bolt size.  That will require a spade bit with an extension. Using a 3/8 to 1/2" chuck drill. Notching a 4x4 only gives you 2x4 + 2x2 to hang your joists on. With a 2x2 vertical support.  I'm a MORE is never wrong, kind of builder.  I've been at for 50 years.


Should I use plumbers tape on tub drain or just plumbers putty?

You don't need tape for the seal (those drain to shoe threads are not where the water seal takes place in those parts) but since you are using metal drain parts teflon tape or pipe dope does greatly increase the odds that you or the next person will be able to get them apart, rather than finding them irrevocably corroded together. I'd actually prefer pipe dope for the purpose.
As for putty, that apparently depends on the tub material. I was looking up instructions for my new-ish tub and was very surprised to find that silicone caulking was the recommended material for my tub - apparently plumber's putty does not get along with acrylic tubs? I'm going to guess that your all metal drain probably goes with a cast iron tub where plumbers putty is the right material, but I offer that observation because it surprised me, and made my tub of plumber's putty feel sad and unwanted, poor thing.


how do I keep leaves and foreign objects out of the top of my a/c unit?

I used some 1/2" galvanized wire mesh to build a cover over my Mom's outdoor unit. I laid the wire on top and pushed it down all around the top of the unit. Then I cut it, leaving about 4" on the sides. It been there over 10 years, and keeps the leaves out.


Is it safe to use barn wood indoors for furniture, trim, walls and ceilings?

Working with reclaimed wood presents a few unique challenges and concerns. It sounds like you're going to be using your stock in its raw form so I won't get  into milling etc.

The first thing to watch out for is dust. Barn wood is impregnated with all sorts of nasty stuff including molds and animal dander (a carrier of tetanus). Dust masks are an absolute must and take special care to clean out any wounds and splinters you acquire because they will often get infected.

Another issue is imbedded foreign objects. Hitting an old bolt with a skill saw is as dangerous to you as it is to your blade. Pick up a metal detecting wand ($40) and go over your parts before you make any cuts, you'll be amazed at the variety of shrapnel you collect.

Finally, finishing reclaimed wood is its own bag of problems. Most protective finishes don't really like to be applied over top of dirt and contaminates so be sure to start by wire brushing out the worst of the gunk and then apply a good sealer coat before finishing, or better yet use a penetrating oil like Penofin for a more natural look. Note that any finish will change the color of your patina.

As far as insects are concerned, there is a spray that can be applied to the stock that can mitigate or eliminate the threat of transporting them into your house but it's probably best left to a professional to handle it. If you don't see any signs of activity (holes, larvae, etc. ) you might not have anything to worry about.


Encasing electrical outlet behind a panel above overhead microwave

The electrical outlet always needs to be accessible. Electrical code in regions that I know about do not permit an electrical box, then yet an outlet attached to it, to be buried behind permanent structure.

It sounds like your remodeling contractor does not know his way around an electrical issue.


I doubt that cable is carrying household voltage. It's probably DC voltage in the 12-24 volt range from a power supply brick.

Use your multimeter to figure out which part of the connector on the cable is positive and negative. Then you can desolder the socket from the board, cut the connector off the cord, use the multimeter to identify positive/negative in the cable and solder it to the circuit board.

If I had to guess, the two pins sharing a trace are probably positive, and the third pin looks to be attached to the ground plane and therefore probably negative.


Technique for driving hinge screws to minimize misalignment

As you are a perfectionist for installing hinge screws perfectly it turns out that there is a product made just for this purpose. It is a self centering pilot drill that aims the pilot drill bit right on center in the hinge hole.

There is a spring loaded sleeve around the drill bit that pushes back as the bit bores the hole. The tip of the sleeve centers in the counter sink of the hinge hole.

These are often sold in sets for the range of hinge screw sizes that you are likely to encounter.

Picture Source

Picture Source


Inserting a connecting threaded water plastic pipe between two fixed ends

You use a fitting called a union.

It allows you to thread a nipple into the elbow, and a nipple into the tee. Then you use the union to connect the two nipples.

photo courtesy of Wikipedia

They are available in many sizes and materials.


Replace one of the 3way switch to sensor switch in the hallway

After wrestling with 3way (i call them "two pole" but to each their own) switches I have learned that the only way out is patience and testing.  Don't trust the wire colors.  Unhook the switches from both sides (or just one switch if you are sure the other hasn't been altered since it was working), put wire nuts on the open wires, and power the circuit back on from the breaker/fuse.  Get a multimeter and look for where the hot/neutral is and try to work out the other wires (which ones run to the fixture and which run to the other switch).  If it's not obvious yet, check the fixture for voltage, you might find voltage there even with the switch off (second scenario below).

There are two types of 3 way switch wiring layouts.  One has the power running from the panel to switch A, then 3 wires running to switch B (two alternating hot depending on switch position, plus one neutral) and finally 2 wires running from switch B to the fixture.   The other option is similar but power runs to the fixture first and then to the switches to make/break the path.

You need to know which of these applies to you in order to know which terminals on your motion switch to use.  From the look of the switch you have the black (live) wires hooked in but it's not clear if there is a neutral in there too (most motion switches need a neutral to work in a 3way setup).  More details will be needed on your situation to provide a specific answer.

Edit, more info:
Came across this good discussion (in case you haven't seen it): How do I wire a 3-way motion sensor?

The crux of the problem is that in a normal 3-way switch set up, neither switch really "knows" if the light is on or off, flipping it just reverses the state (for example you can have two switches up and the light is still off) so with a motion sensor you really need it to be in total control of the light, otherwise it might just turn it off after sensing motion when the light is already on per the other switch (not what you want).  Most motion sensing switches have an accommodation for this but it is specific to the model.


Can I control a 20 amp outlet with a motion sensor?

You misunderstand these products. Yes, "tankless heaters" are quite popular. And this isn't one.

Tanked water heaters have a reservoir (tank).  The tank takes 10-30 minutes to heat up. Once you use the tankful, you are out of hot water for awhile.
Tankless water heaters have no tank, water streams through them and they flash heat it.  Water is endless.  But this takes a LOT of electricity (in the moment) and so you need fat, dedicated wires to the heater.

The tankless is a net win, because though it surges huge current during instants of hot-water use, the rest of the time it uses none at all, and that is a net win since it never heats water no-one is using.

You are talking about shutting off the heater when you're not using it to save energy, and only turning it on when you need it.  Let's think about that.

Tanked water heaters use energy all the time.  Once they initially heat the water, it cools (slowly due to the insulation) but nonetheless the heater must re-fire periodically 24x7 while on standby.  This is a fair amount of "vampire power".
Tankless water heaters don't heat water when not being used, so they don't use any appreciable amount of energy when on standby.

So you see, the very idea of putting one on a motion sensor is pointless.

For a tanked water heater, it won't even start to warm up by the time the user wants to use the hot water.   The user will need to do jumping jacks in front of the motion sensor for 10-20 minutes to get hot water.
For a tankless water heater, it will make no difference whatsoever, because the tankless isn't using energy while in standby.  It's a waste of a perfectly good motion sensor.

A fair solution is to fit a 1500-1800 watt tankless in that location, with a valve to limit flow so you get respectable heat.  But it won't be much flow.

An excellent solution is to run a new #12 or #10 homerun and install a 4000-6000W tankless.


How can I make a sturdy lightweight box?

Your idea is very similar to how hollow core doors are made.

If you feel a hollow core door is lightweight and sturdy enough for you, then I would say this approach will work for you.


Why does my smoke detector chirp when my bathroom lights are turned on?

I don't think I've seen a smoke detector that only chirps when it's light out, but I'd love to get one if that's the case. Mine always seem to chirp at night (typically because it's colder and batteries fail in the cold).

I have seen smoke detectors with a light sensor used in place of a test button, but this typically requires a flashlight shined directly on it.

My guess is that you don't have a battery in there at all and when the lights come on the smoke detector is getting reset and doing an activation chirp. Replacing or installing a battery would fix this. But I would double check that the smoke detector is working when the lights are off, on the off chance someone screwed up and wired it into the switch.

My second guess is that the voltage drop from the lights turning on, combined with a borderline low battery, is enough to cause the low battery chirp to trigger. But this would get worse as the battery dies until it's constantly chirping.


How do I repair damage to the plaster on my bedroom ceiling?

If the ceiling feels spongy anywhere at all, some sort of deterioration has occurred.  The most common cause is moisture seepage—whether from leaky plumbing, roofing, or pets—but plaster deterioration can also occur from sustained high temperature (120 °F/49 °C) as is common above an enclosed light fixture or electrical junction box carrying a heavy electrical load.

Decay could also be caused by certain pests like cockroaches, fleas, or larger critter's waste.

The first step to fixing it is to stop whatever is causing the problem.  Then assess what needs to be done.

Wall and ceiling work is somewhat expensive if you hire someone to do it, but it is quite inexpensive if you do it yourself.  Even if you don't know what you are doing and have to (re)do it four times, that will still be less expensive than hiring a pro.  For a head start, visit your local Home Depot the next time they have a sheetrock demo.  Or search for "sheetrock repair" on Youtube.

If investigation or repair require tearing down the ceiling, the price can escalate if you see something else you want to do:   rewire, insulate, reroute plumbing, redo siding, etc.  Frankly, the add-ons are the most difficult (financially and emotionally) aspects of such projects.


When refinishing a hardwood floor do you need to strip off all of the old varnish?

You can test to be sure, but patchy leftover finish is likely to affect the uniformity of your new finish. It's generally considered best practice to completely remove the old finish.


Using radiant barrier to keep a room warm

Does it matter what kind of foil I use? Is anything better than the "normal" foil used for food storage?

Foil reflects heat by reflecting light that would normally be absorbed by the surface (or what's behind the surface, in the case of glass). By bouncing that light back into the room the energy is retained. Obviously this means that the more reflective (shiny) the surface, the more effective it will be.

Does it matter whether the cavity between the foil and the window is not completely sealed?

Not with respect to radiant heat reflection. Obviously it would help with insulation and heat loss in general.

Does foil work significantly better than any white opaque surface?

Yes. It better reflects all of the light spectrum (visible and not). A very glossy white surface could come close, I suppose.

Are there common conditions that I might not think of where this would not work?

Not really, assuming typical household circumstances. All matter emits heat energy, so the more heat and light in the room the more there is to contain through reflection.

Can foil also prevent radiative heat loss if I use it to cover a wall/ceiling? If so, is is partially effective if the wall/ceiling is only partially covered?

Sure. This is why foil-faced insulation panels exist. It's not usually practical for an interior surface, though, for reasons of aesthetics and durability.

Will I need to make sure that any pipes running through the covered walls do not require heat from my living space to prevent freezing?

That is a concern which varies with climate, existing insulation, etc.

Are there any special precautions I should take in a room heated by baseboard heat?

Not really. You'll still need to maintain safe clearance to combustibles, of course.

Can I also use foil on my walls/ceiling to increase solar heat gain when condition are appropriate?

This would probably be counter-productive. You want your interior surfaces to absorb light and heat in winter, not reflect it.

Is this a giant waste of time?

The benefits are unlikely to outweigh the detriments (cost, effort, loss of visibility and natural light) unless you're facing a severe energy crisis. For that reason it's rarely done. There are films that reflect some heat while maintaining partial visibility, but they would obviously cost more than basic foil.


A ladder can be difficult to manage on a slope.  I'd use some scaffolding.  You can get extensions to level the structure so that it can handle a slope.  It's relatively inexpensive to rent.  Talk to your local equipment rental dealer about some specific recommendations for your situation.


I think a bolt with an expansion nut (or coupling nut) would kind of give you the "expansion clamp" behavior you're looking for
Alternatively you could try "hardwall hangers", they nail into concrete fairly easy.When you're done you can pop them off with a screwdriver and the holes are small enough that I don't think it would cause any issues with your apartment complex


This shower valve doesn't seem to have a set screw and i need to take it off

One of those holes in the lever is clearly for attachment (probably the one closest to the wall). Originally there was a hex set screw inside the hole, tightened to hold the lever onto the valve shaft:

So, your first step is to see if there is still a set screw in there, and if you can loosen it with a hex wrench.

If there really is nothing inside the hole, then the set screw is gone and the lever is being held on by friction and/or corrosion. This means that you'll have to use persuasion to get the lever to come off. Tapping (lightly) on the hub of the lever with a metal hammer might loosen things; using a screwdriver as a lever might also work. If you can get the bezel off by taking off that Phillips-head screw (and its likely partner on the other side) it could help.

Warning: too much pressure and you'll bend or break the valve, possibly causing a flood. How much is "too much" is a tough question; you might want to turn off the house water before you do this, and have a plumber on speed dial Just In Case.


What type of bracket to use between furnace and evaporator coil unit?

it is normal to have a flex fitting between the furnace and ductwork.
I say normal because that’s how I was taught and what I usually see.
This really reduces ductwork noise.
I use a vinyl coated fabric reenforced material clamped to the duct create a flex bulge and clamp to the furnace.
I would use caution creating a solid connection to the furnace if you have metal trunks think of a base drum that’s what the ductwork may sound like especially on startup and stop as the fan motor spins up and down there is usually a speed where it is out of balance and the noise can be irritating.
You can use metal straps to connect them but I would recommend a flexable one. (Not tape) use caution where you use screws make sure you won’t go through and hit wires, refrigerant lines, exhaust. You get the idea use caution if you strap.


What is this white powder on the walls and around the plumbing?

Efflorescence!  Efflorescence is a crystaline deposit of water-soluble salts on surfaces of masonry, stucco or concrete.  Water brings these salts to/toward the surface and then the water evaporates leaving behind the crystaline deposit.

Note: If one has efflorescence on the surface, one can count on having similar deposits just below the surface, too.  These sub-surface deposits tend to cause crumbling of the masonry, stucco, or concrete structure.

The presence of mineral deposits on water pipes indicates one of three things:

1) there's a pin-hole in the pipe through which water is penetrating and evaporating to leave behind calcium (and other minerals) behind,

2) water is leaking from a fitting and leaving behind deposits, at the lowest point of moisture travel, before dripping or evaporating,

3) water is carrying minerals from an adjacent wall, ceiling, etc.; which runs down the pipe and leaves behind deposits, from the lowest point of moisture travel, before dripping or evaporating


Like Mike said, you need a special wrench to get that "nut" off your faucet. You will need something like this:

You can get them pretty cheap at home stores or plumbing supply stores.  Trace out the nut on paper and bring it with you to the store so you can get a match.

It looks like someone already tried to remove it by tapping a screwdriver placed in one of the slots. This can work sometimes if the nut is not too tight but you always have to be careful not to damage the threads because some sleeves screw down on them. Good luck.


What she probably meant was that, over time, a small leak might seal itself due to build-up of "salts" at the leak site. Minerals will precipitate out of the water as it evaporates and build up, salt might be a term used casually to describe the various minerals. I would not rely on this idea, the pipe needs proper repair.


Can I run an underground wire to a shed on blocks?

Yes, the national electric code allows wiring in structures like your shed.
If you plan on using UF wire for the run buried 24” deep you need to bring the wire up in conduit so the wire is protected.
If you run conduit, the conduit only has to be buried 18” for PVC.
If you run rigid or intermediate metal it can be buried 6”.
Burial depths are listed in the NEC 300.5.
With the conduit option, we normally pull thhn as it is dual rated as thwn. (Conduit in ground is considered a wet location.) You would not want to pull UF wire in conduit, and Romex or NMB is not allowed.
You might consider aluminum wire at that distance for the feeder depending on what your load is.
Anything more than a 20 amp multiwire branch circuit will require a panel in the shed. There are very small panels that will provide 4-6 circuits but these may be undersized: if you want lights on 1 circuit, outlets a second circuit, possibly a welder or air compressor a double pole circuit... and you are out of room for breakers. So it ends up being better to go with a larger panel (100 amp 20+ circuits). The cost will be close to the same as the smaller panel but you can feed it with 60 or 40; that is fine.
Remember your receptacles in your shed require GFCI protection--even light circuits in the ceiling--if plugs are used. However, lighting circuits that are hard-wired do not require GFCI protection.
With more information, we can help with the wire size or provide additional information.


Additional Vapor Barrier with Faced Insulation?

not 100% certain on this, but a double vapor barrier will actually cause harm as the moisture will have no where to escape to.  Especially if you place it on the non-faced side.  If you place it on the already faced side, it probably wont hurt, but is pointless as you already have the barrier .


Is digging with a shovel near gas lines dangerous?

I speak as a former engineer for a utility that provides both gas and electricity.
Gas lines are typically metal or plastic. If plastic, they're very likely thick enough to withstand most hand digging with a shovel. Laws typically require hand digging within some distance (18" in my state) of a marked line. If you do find a gas line with your shovel and notice any damage beyond, perhaps, very minor scraping, call the gas company back. They'll evaluate and will almost certainly be responsible for any costs of repairs since there were no markings.
It is also possible that there are underground lines that are not owned by a utility company and will not be marked.
Just dig reasonably. Age, manufacturing defects, and other factors can create all sorts of variations in the strengths of the lines, whether plastic or metal. Hand digging, though, is unlikely to create a spark that would ignite the gas, even in the very unlikely event your shovel does penetrate the line (still evacuate, call 911 AND the gas company, and get your neighbors away, too). Just don't smoke while you're digging!
Finally, while there may be warning tape or other devices, there are no guarantees! These things are installed by humans who don't always do everything perfectly, nor were they used in the oldest installations. Easements are a good indication; just be aware that an easement on a map may not reflect the actual location of a line, and a "blanket" easement gives NO indication of where the line might be.
Please also know that utility lines are almost always buried at proper depths; however, there is no guarantee that someone did not change the grading of the property after a line was installed. When people would ask me how deep our lines are buried, I'd answer "all the way to the bottom of the trench".
Update:
In response to comments discounting risk of gas-related fires:

Not something to take less than seriously (the hose aimed upward keeps the fireball from curling around and burning the firefighters from above and behind). The fire continues until the gas is shut off, despite the water.
The tank in the photo is probably the most common size for residential propane customers. Buried lines are likely big enough to eliminate any claims of a "small" fire... and how much damage will be done, even if the shutoff is not engulfed, in the time it would take to shut it off? Sure, there are always rare exceptions. Do you care to place a financial wager with me that has a 99% probability of your losing? Stakes are even higher here.


How can I improve air flow in my basement?

If it's a really old house, that might actually work to your benefit as old houses usually are not well sealed when compared to new homes which are practically air tight.

There's a couple components to what you are trying to accomplish:

Air circulation - A ceiling fan will probably do the trick for a single room.  If the house is conditioned via forced air, another option might be setting the furnace fan to be always on instead of only on when heating/cooling.  This will help keep the air circulating throughout the house (and through the furnaces filter).
Humidity - If its really bad, a dehumidifier will likely be required.
Fresh air - In all likelihood, you are probably getting a decent amount of fresh air through the cracks in the walls and elsewhere already (seeing as it's an old house).  If you are not, the simplest solution is to open a window ocasionally. If this is not an option (ie: winter) then the furnace fan trick I mentioned in (1) migtht help too.

Some other options are:

Some household plants might also help with the air quality - talk to your local garden center to see if they have any ideas
Air ioniser (or negative ion generator) - I can't backup any claims made by these devices, but some people claim they work well.
Install a small HEPA filter


Grade slopes toward foundation under sloping deck

You did not say what kind of the wood the deck is made of and the condition (other than old).
I have completely rebuilt some 30+ year old redwood decks in the past that were nailed with a nail jack like this. The boards bay be able to be turned over and an almost new surface is possible after a little sanding. if the surface has been well maintained and the nails are pulled without damaging the surface of the wood screws could be used to replace the boards in the original positions. this will take more time than replacing the decking but can save thousands.
You will also find material cost has dramatically increased and the quality of the lumber is lower today than it was 20+ years ago. it all depends on if there is any rotten ares with the decking if it can be reused redwood and cedar have very long lives compared to other soft woods.


Steps to finding out what part of my fridge is tripping its GFCI outlet?

Installing a GFCI on a refrigerator basically disregards the use-case for GFCI.   It's a well-grounded, all-metal box, with all the mains electric gear in the very bottom back of the machine, totally inaccessible in the vast majority of people's installations... and you are unlikely to drop it in the sink.

As such, there is no practical safety benefit to putting a fridge on GFCI, unless the branch to the fridge is totally ungrounded.

What the "Take your shoes off at the airport" gang cannot wrap their minds around, is the concept that dueling safety systems makes safety worse.  Consider a remote warehouse with a big Cat diesel fire pump.  Some epsilon-minus decides that every diesel on the property needs a low-oil-level shutoff, to keep people from running forklifts etc. a quart low.  Well, there's a fire. The fire pump trips out on low oil, and the warehouse burns down.  That's dueling safety systems, and you don't want that.

The fridge has One Job: keep food safe. It's not a big shock risk, so GFCI won't save any lives.  GFCI gets in the way of its One Job. It's bad enough with a dedicated GFCI, but with a shared GFCI, the GFCI could trip, someone could reset it to get a different appliance back up, the fridge would re-chill after bacteria had its way with the food, and nobody would be the wiser.

The above receptacle is legal in any kitchen.  It is also legal in any garage, basement or other place you might put a refrigerator that normally requires GFCI, if you get a waiver from your AHJ: the local inspector.  This is a perfectly sensible setup, and there's no good reason not to grant it.

Why is it tripping? Because like lots of fridges, it has some small leakage between hot and earth, perhaps when a compressor cycles off: there's a big inductive spike because inductors are trying to keep current constant, and they spike voltage until insulation breaks down somewhere to sink it.  It really is a ground fault, but it's a trivial and unavoidable one.  Fridges do this.

In the DC world you'd put a freewheeling diode on that inductor. In AC a VBO (Voltage Breakover) would the job, being "insulation" that breaks down at a specific voltage e.g. 200V before regular insulation fails. MOVs can do that too. That would be placed between hot and neutral, arresting the spike to neutral instead of to safety ground; as a result currents would be equal and the GFCI would ignore it.   A capacitor might also help, being able to absorb some current from the inductor.


LED lighting fixture driver busted - what can I replace it with?

Based on the input voltage in the picture being 200-240V, I'm guessing you're not in the US, but I could be wrong. Be aware of different rules that may apply based on where in the world you are.
When looking for a replacement LED driver, what is important?
A replacement driver should have a similar voltage input and output range, but what is more critical to match is the current supplied to the LEDs, as over current and over temperature tend to be what kills LEDs. If a direct replacement is not available, look for a driver with an adjustable current limit that you can change to match to the old value, by using a multimeter with a current measurement.
Where can I find a suitable driver to purchase, and how can I make sure it's safe?
Constant-current LED drivers are available from many electronics suppliers like DigiKey or Mouser (US examples, no affiliation). Be sure to select a reputable supplier that sells drivers with the relevant certifications (UL, CE, ETL, etc) and be wary of online marketplaces that may not have the same safety guarantees for what they sell.


As you discuss, the unit is fried and will not be usable, ever. Your question is whether it will start a fire if you defer replacement.

Windex is entirely made of solvent/volatile - it tends to entirely evaporate. It has to, otherwise it would leave streaks.

You can rely on the Windex being pretty much completely gone, and I wouldn't expect it to give you any trouble in terms of further deteriorating the device.   Ant carcasses, no promises, but they'll be desiccated soon enough, and dry ant carcasses don't conduct electricity better than wet ones.

I think if it hasn't yet to burst into flames, it's not gonna.  But out of an abundance of caution, if you are able to remove the failed device, do so - there's no reason to leave it in place.  Do a good job taping over the wires (you don't want the tape sliding off, wire nuts alone won't do IME) and cover the works with a blank cover plate (50 cents).  Electrical tape is about $4.  Both are good things to have anyway.

The not tripping any other receptacles is a surprise.  But lots of people wire up GFCIs so they do not feed downline receptacles at all.   This gives them two benefits, first it allows them to comply with the piece of tape over the LOAD terminals which says do not mess with these terminals unless you really know what you're doing.  Second, it gives them a TEST and RESET button on every outlet, which means even very dull real estate agents and inspectors can affirm they are GFCI protected.  If your house is wired this way, then it would explain why there are no downline receptacles that are dead.


How do I remove toggle bolt from under the sink?

Not toggle bolts. Just nuts with bushings and a crossbars under them (one of which has fallen into the sink bore, giving it the appearance of a toggler). Remove them in that order.


How can I determine if the mildew on the bathroom ceiling comes from the upper floor?

Is the mold concentrated is a small area or cover most of the ceiling? Do you notice water condensation on any surfaces after using the shower? If the morror fogs or the tiles feel wet  your shower is the most likely cause. If it were from a leak upstairs you should see ceiling discoloration in an area ajacent to the leak. If your bathroom has a vent fan or window use it. Leave the door open to allow air to circulate after showering. If you can paint the ceiling with bathroom specific paint as it contains a mildewcide. The fix is to control the moisture so that the mold can't start.


First off please be aware that the non-contact voltage tester will test for voltage present not current. When you have only the feed wire connected to the switch there is NO current flow at all.
The non-contact voltage tester can be triggered by adjacent conductor coupling where one conductor has a voltage present whilst the other is open. Inside your switch one position clearly puts internal metal parts in closer proximity that in the other position. The closer connections are allowing the coupling to the unconnected terminal making it appear that it has voltage present. This is one reason you need to take careful analysis of what a non-contact voltage tester will detect or not detect. To be honest it is better that the tester shows a voltage coupling than not so you have to pay close attention to what is going on.
Any conductor that is tied back via the neutral or safety ground connection will not be detected by the non-contact voltage detector because the wire is not open (i.e. has a low resistance path to the circuit return) and thus is not going to be subject to any possible coupling from a hot circuit conductor.
A non-contact voltage tester can be a good first level detection method. And it is normally recommended that before committing to its use each session to use the detector on a known powered circuit and one that is not just to make sure the thing is operating correctly. Beyond the first level detection there are other pieces of equipment that can give a more concrete circuit state determination. One of these is to use a digital meter. Note that a digital meter may still read a voltage on coupled conductors but normally a much lower level voltage than a conductor with a real voltage connection.


DIY way to wash sand/clay out of driveway gravel?

The clay/sand/finds help bind the gravel and create a macadamized and tough surface.  Removing the fines will loosen the gravel, and unless you have  a vibrating tamper/grader, your road will be in far worse condition when you are done.

Traditionally, people simply watered the roads to keep the dust down, but you can also put some lime on it.


Diagnostic Display

According to the Installation Instructions, your model is equipped with a diagnostic display.

To review the any error codes:

  Press the diagnostic push button and hold it to cycle through a menu of options. Every five seconds a new item will be displayed. Release the button when the desired mode is displayed.

  When a solid "P" is displayed, the furnace capacity/size is programmed.

  When a solid "E" is displayed, the control enters the Error Code Recall mode.

  Error Code Recall mode menu options:

  No change (displaying error history) remains in Error Code Recall mode.
  solid "b" exits Error Code Recall mode.
  solid "c" clears the error history. Must press button while flashing "c" is displayed to clear error codes.

  When the solid "-" is displayed, the control enters the Field Test mode.

  Field Test mode menu options:

  Solid "C" starts pressure switch calibration.
  blinking "-" exits Field Test mode.

Firing Sequence

If you don't want to get into all that, you can simply use the firing sequence to try and troubleshoot the problem. Start by turning the breaker, and any serviceman switch on. Next turn the thermostat up, until it calls for heat.

First, you should hear a small click, ping, ding, or some other sound, to indicate the gas valve opened (may be too quiet to hear on some valves).  Next you'll be able to hear a quiet hiss, as the gas starts to flow. The ignitor; either a spark gap or hot surface, will turn on. You'll either hear a rhythmic click-click-click, or see a small bit of metal turn red. At the same time, the draft inducer should turn on. This may be quite noisy, and could make diagnosing problems by sound difficult.

No Flame

If a flame is not sensed within a few seconds (may be variable depending on model), The gas valve will close, the ignitor will turn off, and the draft inducer will purge the system for 15 seconds (may be variable depending on model).  The sequence should repeat again, for up to 5 tries (may be variable depending on model). If after the 5th try, there is still no flame. The system will purge for 20 seconds, then shut down and display and error code.

Flame

If a flame is sensed, the furnace will wait for the flame to stabilize.  Once a good flame is detected, the indoor blower should start, and warm air will be blown throughout the house.


Do I need vents to devices in the primary waste line?

I'm answering my own question since I changed the design based those comments here and on some other research (code and recommendation).

Sink C now has it's own pathway to the "junction box". The vent on Sink C joins the main vent stack above all and acts as a wet vent to the junction box too.

Toilet B doesn't need a vent due to distance to the main stack.

Toilet C is of a little concern because it is "wet vented" by the main stack, but since the piping there is 4 in I doubt that it could create enough back pressure to break the Toilet C trap.


In what situation could a fish tape potentially touch live wires?

When fishing into an electrical panel

In most cases, there will be live terminals (at a minimum, the service connections on the main breaker) in a panel you are fishing wires into.  While new panels have what are known as IP20 terminal shields that make the service terminals finger-safe (i.e the live parts are no longer poke-able with a finger), these shields are not complete protection, and are only found on very recent panels anyway.  In addition, many times when you are fishing into a panel, branch circuits not proximate to the rest of the work are left live, for obvious nuisance reasons.


Concrete floor "too thin" for bolt and sleeve anchor

First - what kind of construction uses a 2" slab for a floor? Trying to get more concrete down there is unlikely without breaking out part of the floor because it needs something to displace in order to do what you want. Even if you got some down there it's very unlikely to hold. Why not go to a 3/8 x 2 1/4 expansion bolt. I know you're rightfully concerned with the 2" slab holding but it should be okay unless that door is a real behemoth.

Another option is to improvise an extra large (i.e. 6"x 6") block that you can molly-bolt onto the 2" slab. What this does is take advantage of the shear strength of the molly by exerting force laterally when the door strikes the block or stop as opposed to a narrow stop that will want to tilt when it's struck exerting diagonal forces (up and down) on the 2" slab. If you go with an over-sized stop you could also strengthen it by using more than one anchor spreading out the load.


Beautiful tin ceiling!

It's hard to tell from the pic, but I'd imagine that the rods hanging down from the gold-colored mounting plate are threaded and that they go through the holes on the canopy. If that's the case, then the acorn nuts being tightened against the canopy should be sufficient to hold this up.

Even if the center threaded rod was long enough to thread through the center of the mounting plate, all the weight of the chandelier would be on that gold plate.
With the canopy mounting screws taking the weight, the weight is still borne by that plate, but it is taken in two places instead of one, and the two spots are closer to the edge of the plate instead of in the center. This gives the weight a much shorter lever arm to attempt to bend things, thus making it more difficult.

About the only change I'd make would be to rotate the mounting plate clockwise a bit so that the support bolts are as close as reasonably possible to the screws that hold the plate to the box (i.e. you still have to get a screwdriver on there to tighten the plate to the box).


How should I weather strip a door in an outside building?

You could try one of these Twin draft guards for the bottom of the door.

Some Weather strip tape might work for the top.


Should I replace a water heater preemptively?

The average life of a water heater is about ten years. Newer models are a lot more energy efficient as well. Given the age of your water heater, it has more than done it's duty. You don't have to replace it, but if it's in your budget I would recommend replacing it. You don't want to get in an emergency situation. I would also consider adding a concrete pad  or at the very least, a drain pan underneath your new one. That flooring situation is definitely not ideal.

Inspect your water heater:

Flush the water to remove any sediment.
Have a certified plumber take a look at the igniter and burner to make certain everything is safe.
Check for signs of rust around the bottom of the tank and at all of the fittings. If you spot rust around the water inlet or pressure relief valve on the heater, it’s likely that rust is also inside the tank.

You can find out the exact age of your water heater by looking at the serial number on the  manufacturers sticker:


How can I repair a particle-board dresser after sanding part of it?

Use wood filler to fill and smooth the damaged area.  Then buy a veneer material in the finish you'd like (I think you can find it in the counter department at Lowe's or Home Depot - I saw some there the other day) and apply that to the entire dresser with the manufacturer recommended adhesive.


Solar load (which heats the building to 95 on a 68 degree day) is a real problem.  Insulation will make things better, not worse.

The #1 thing you can do is paint the roof white.  Yes, I know that's hard and weird, but it really does work.

Soffit and roof vents, obviously, make it a lot harder to heat a shed.  Maybe the architect was concerned with condensation inside your shed, and want to make sure moist warm air from the daytime is cycled out by nightfall.

If you're going to hang a ceiling and have a void between ceiling and roof, it helps get rid of solar heat if you move a lot of air through there.  That will carry away the heat that comes through the roof before it reaches the ceiling.  Of course this would be unhelpful if you are trying to heat below the ceiling.


I am putting just a start of an answer here since I needed to post a picture.

To get anywhere in making progress it is necessary to understand where the end of the wire highlighted in the picture below actually goes. From the picture it looks like it may just poke out through the bottom side of the electrical box.

The shadows inside the box in the picture also make it hard to see all the existing connections.

So where does that lone white wire go?

Update:

If @Joe is correct and the white wire that I highlighted does join in with the two black wires in the right most wire nut then it would be highly likely that wires a hot connection to the switch on the wire that exits at the top right of the picture.

Then in that case the black wire that extends off to the right in the picture is the switched hot that would go the the hot wire of the light fixture. The GND of the fixture would be joined into the other safety grounds on the center wire nut. The neutral of the fixture would be joined in with the two white wires on the left most wire nut in the picture.

Note this would be a good time to mark that white wire by painting or taping black to indicate that it is being used as a hot wire. Do in this box and at the switch to bring that connection to modern recommendations to alert future folks about the non standard wire color usage.

Update 2: Dead Wire?

You should put some attention to where that black and white wire that exit from the upper right corner of the picture go to. There are a number of things that could be going on here as follows:

Wire goes to a different switch box than you think.
Someone may have drilled a hole someplace and severed the wire before it gets to the switch box.
In the proper switch box the switch may be faulty.
In the switch box the wire may have been disconnected for some reason.
There may be an intermittent wire connection in the switch box.

In any case, now understanding how that white wire is interconnected in with the other two black wires, it is clear that that upper right wire pair is meant to be a switch loop. Any one of the reasons I listed above raises serious safety concerns unless it is 100% understood. Consider that there could be a combination of issues such as (2) happened followed by (4). If you or your father in law are not able to ascertain what the issue is then you should call in a professional electrician. To be honest, knowing what we do now, the idea of just using a pull chain fixture is as bad as just sweeping a problem under the rug.


How can I mitigate copper naphthenate (copper green) smell indoors?

A thick four coats of floor paint that is meant to be impermeable to damp and impervious to floor traffic helped seal in this stuff where someone used it to treat a bathroom stall against rot.

Yes, the stuff just smells horrible. It's essentially copper contaminated moth balls with a little extra phenol for sniffy goodness and not for interior use at all.


How do I convert an existing electrical panel to a subpanel?

Main breaker

There's no problem with having a main breaker in a subpanel. It's required if your panel is in a separate building and has more than six breakers, but there's nothing prohibiting it in any other case.

Wire size

You need to ensure the wire between the panels is sufficient size. See What wire gauge do I need for a 100 Amp subpanel at the end of a 60' wire run?

Neutral-ground bond

You need to ensure the only bond between ground and neutral is in the main panel. The subpanel must have separate ground and neutral bus bars. Since your panel is used a main panel now, it will currently have a bond between ground and neutral, so that'll have to be removed.

It's usually a metal bar or connector that screws between the two bus bars, or between the cabinet and neutral bar.
If you currently have neutrals and grounds mixed on both bus bars, you'll have to separate them out
If you have only a single bus bar (with grounds and neutrals mixed) you'll have to add a neutral bar (which is not bonded to the cabinet). Check with manufacturer first to see if they have a documented way of doing this. If not, I'd suggest you check with your AHJ (inspector) first to be sure whatever you do will be acceptable.


You could try clamping something rigid and relatively straight (like a T-square or 1x4) to the beam and then using that to ensure it's perpendicular. Then measure your holes and drill with, say, your knuckles making contact on the rigid surface

If I were you, I'd just buy a longer bit tho. Sounds like a waste, but when you need the right tool, you need the right tool. And it makes life easier. Your regular bit may not penetrate enough to connect the holes (I've had that one happen).


Double glazed windows reduce only part of noise. What could I do next?

You could add operable shutters outside, and heavy sound deadening blackout shades inside.

Even hanging heavy curtains would help.


Can I share a stack between two toilets?

It depends on the plumbing code in your area. Where I live you'd need a permit to do something like this. Every fixture requires a minimum waste and vent pipe size, and adding more fixtures to a branch or stack could call for an increase in the diameter of those pipes. If you are determined to DIY you should at least refer to the local plumbing code to keep it legal. Good luck.


The ring goes where you have it and you're over-tightening. These things need barely more than what you can do with your hands. (There's really no pressure to contain with a sink drain.) The ring should stay inside the nut and seal the pipe to the nut. The nut seals against the bowl threads.


Using just power from ethernet cable for security camera?

I don't believe you need to spend the big bucks for POE, as your requirements are straightforward. If you would install CATx cable for POE, you can easily enough install a pair of wires and add a micro usb pigtail at the camera end. Even though you are running only 5V, to reduce voltage drop, consider to run something as large as 16 gauge wire to the pigtail. Ensure that you provide correct polarity on the added wiring, of course.


How can I convert my home's phone lines to internet lines?

Cat5e cable is capable of running a gigabit ethernet home network. For the telephone jacks you've posted in the photos only wire continuity is important; telephone is on a different level than ethernet, as far as wire consistency and specifications go. You'll have to make sure as you re-terminate each cable that proper pairs are used and are untwisted only as much as necessary.
Each cable should be a "home run" to a central point. Your punchdown panel in photo 2 looks like it may already be a suitable location, but you will likely have issues with cable length there unless there is some slack in the walls. A lot of that unjacketed cable should be cut off. If you have room, it would be good to put a small patch panel in that location - if not you can use modular ethernet jacks. You can probably fit 6 keystone ethernet jacks into a wall plate there.
On each other end at the individual jacks like shown in photo 1, a modular ethernet jack can be used with a wall plate (keystone again would allow you to keep the coaxial in the same plate as shown) and it looks like you have a little slack to work with there.
Once the jacks are in place you can connect a router or switch to each jack in the central "hub" location (photo 2) using patch cables (cat5e would be fine, as another commenter said your network connection will only be as good as your worst cable so cat7 is overkill here) and another patch cable at the wall plate ends to connect the devices.
The Cat3 you have outside the house doesn't matter, ignore that. You can remove it or leave it (but if you remove it, be sure to seal up the holes in the exterior siding).


How can I remove a non-load bearing wall in my basement?

You really need to be careful about removing that wall. I hope there are three rooms in the basement because this sounds load bearing. Is the wall bisecting the basement? If it is a normal non-load bearing wall, my advice is to just go for it.

Find the circuit connected to the wires in the wall, turn it off at the breaker, and cut them out of they way. After you cut them, cap each of the wires keeping them separate and put them into a temporary junction box.

For the Studs, the easiest way to remove them is cutting the nails at the bottom of each one with a reciprocating saw. If you don't have one, beat them out of the way. My guess is that it is old lumber and you have plenty of heavy nails to deal with so "beating them" may be back breaking. Find a friend who has one or pay the neighbor kid a few dollars an hour.

Good luck with the carpet...too many options here.

And save that old lumber. That is good stuff. You just cant use it with new lumber because it is too thick.


Is translucent fiberglass roof cooler or hotter than opaque roof

Technically speaking, the coolest thing to do is to have an opaque roofing surface that's a perfect mirror.  Short of that, it should be painted somewhere in the red spectrum, reflecting the infra-red range.
Beyond that, lighter colors are better.

Personally, I'd avoid the translucent, since I don't know whether long-term exposure to UV rays will damage the OSB.


Caulk.   Something that matches your floor grout is preferred so go with a regular or even sanded colored silicone caulk (I have used this).   I did notice that some of the tile is butted on the other tile and some with a good 1/8-1/4" gap.   I would lay a layer of caulk down on the large gaps flat to tile.   Let it dry two days then put a layer that is beveled throughout so that you have about 1/8" bead on the "top" of each tile piece.


Can I add a 'service entrance barrier' to a QOC electrical panel?

PKSB1HA will definitely not fit a QOC 40MW225 panel, and probably not any QOC series panel.
They have an FAQ which says:

Does Schneider Electric offer repair parts for the Old(25+years) QO
Load centers? (For example old QO--MG200_ _ , QO--MW200_ _ or
QOBW3150-1)
No, the older 25+ years or so QO load centers are all obsolete, with no repair parts available. Consider replacing the complete load center
with a current design

That was discouraging but still a bit vague, since I wasn't looking for "repair parts".  I emailed SD to ask about the barrier specifically and they replied basically just citing the same FAQ. I decided to just try the PKSB1HA and see.
It absolutely does not fit. With the panel open (*) a visual inspection made this clear - the main issue is that the two lugs are much too close together so that the two legs of the barrier overlap considerably. There may be some other dimensions that also would prevent a fit even if that were not the case.
This still leaves open the very slight possibility that some other product could exist, but that seems to be very unlikely.

(*) I had taken precautions with the cover off including wearing 1000V rubber gloves with protective leather outers, and of course having the main breaker off to limit potential 'hot' contact points.


Need help with attaching wood to cinder block

Use a hammer drill with a 5/32" masonry drill bit to install 3/16" Tapcon phillips concrete anchors that are 1-3/4" long. The phillips head should countersink itself flush as you drive it into the furring strip. You may need to use a countersink drill bit before driving the Tapcon to help it sit flush depending on the hardness of the furring strip.


How much tolerance is there for a frameless glass shower door?

The maker of the door will give you the max and minimum opening it will fit in.
Off the shelf shower doors, so they will fit varying sizes of showers will make up the difference by the lap/overhang of the glass on the hinge side of the door. This will only allow the door to open out, which is code. If the door is custom made, it would be possible to have it swing in and out.
Typically the biggest concern is the plumb of the walls and level of the curb. The caulk that seals the glass can only fill up so big a gap.


Bubbles in toilet, gurgling sound coming from kitchen sink

I know a house that has this all the time because there is no vent stack. Any excess gas in the drain lines bubbles through the sinks. It's possible the snow has effectively blocked the vent pipe on the roof, causing this bubbling.


If the mirror is not over 50 lbs or more you can use picture hooks that are rated for 75 lbs that go only into the drywall.

Drywall will hold it, it is not like the wall vibrates or anything like that to make them loose. Besides the nails are set at an angle so it keeps hanging, not able to slide out.


Goodman gas furnace limit switch opening, blower only runs with a/c

Some of the older Goodman furnaces  was equipped with a flame sensor it was just a solid metal probe with one attached wire and when it heated up it caused a small millivolts in the probe if this sensor fails your furnace will not light or will go out after a few seconds, only maintenance required is cleaning the metal probe with steel wool or sand paper and check for a loose terminal due to heat stress its cheap and inexpensive to replace so it should be replaced every 5 years most problems with these probes were burned wires and connections as they are directly in contact with the burner (NOTE) Goodman furnaces were designed to run a few seconds in order to give the flame sensor time to heat up and produce the electrical current to activate the switch if no activity is sensed the burner will  shut off, a flame sensor works  on the same principal as an expansion thermo coupling except there is no movement on a flame sensor it works on millivolts of current generated by heating metal where as a thermo coupling has a mechanical rod in the housing that moves with heat expansion and stays as long as the pilot is burning,


Metering a 240V 40A circuit with an Efergy Engage meter

The manual is absolutely nuts! There is absolutely no explanation of the wires to be monitored except a series of simplified diagrams of different panel types. And what color do they use to indicate the wires to be monitored? Black? Red? No! Green! I'm sure they picked green to match their logo and because "environmental", but green is ground, the world round. If someone decided to actually put a monitor on their ground wire they would (hopefully) measure nothing. Argh!!!!
That being said, it is clear enough that you need to monitor 1 wire if there are 2 (the second would either be neutral or a second hot, and either way the same current as the first wire) or 2 wires if there are 3 (i.e., the 2 hots but not the neutral). Your red, black, beige is really red, black, white, with red & black being the hot wires and white the neutral wire.
Put clamps on the red & black.
In reality, since this is a car charger, you should have nearly all usage at 240V. The only thing running at 120V (if anything) would be some minimal electronics controlling the charging. But if there were anything significant on white, which there normally would be if these three wires were going into a breaker panel rather than into a single receptacle, the current on white (neutral) would be the difference between the black & red (hots) and the monitoring system would handle it all correctly.
The last step is that the monitoring system needs to "know" what type of circuit you are using. If the system is smart enough (can't tell from the minimalist manual) then it should actually be able to figure out that the two clamp sensors are two halves of a 240V circuit. But I would suggest seeing what the system shows when you are actually charging. There will be some minor differences, but if you charge up your car 50 kWh, you should see very close to that amount (slightly higher due to conversion losses) recorded on the monitoring system.
From a deleted-answer-that-should-have-been-a-comment:
I'm curious why the HOA is asking this. What business is it of theirs?
That is actually pretty straightforward to me. If the charger is powered from a shared garage or parking lot, the power is paid for as part of the condo. fee (or equivalent - terminology varies). Everyone needs the lights and the access system, so the electric bill for the shared areas gets split evenly across all the units served, or by square footage of individual units or some other reasonable method.
A car charger, used by one unit out of many, drastically changes things. While an electric car should cost less in the long run than a gasoline powered car, the energy isn't free. Tesla started with free supercharging to get people to buy their cars. Once sales picked up, they dropped the free supercharging because people would buy cars anyway, knowing that a stop at a supercharger would be comparable to buying a tank of gas. A 50 kWh charge (1/2 to 2/3 of a typical Tesla battery capacity) typically costs $0.10 to $0.20 per kWh = $5.00 to $10.00. Not a big deal if it is once in a while, but if someone charges that much 3 times a week, it could be as much as the entire rest of the electric bill for lights, security system, etc. The HOA is right to be concerned and to want to manage the costs equitably.
If there is only one car charger then it is actually still pretty simple - subtract last year's usage from this year's usage (seasonally adjusted by matching the month) and you have a reasonable approximation. But once a second car charger is added - and one user charges daily for 100 mile round trip, but the other charges less frequently because they have a short commute, etc. - it becomes impossible to guess.
However, in addition to the complications that OP has found trying to DIY an electric meter, there are potentially regulatory issues involved in submetering. That becomes a legal issue for the HOA. I am sure we'll be hearing more of such things over the coming years as car chargers become more common.
A fantastic technical solution would be for the charger itself to monitor usage and report it. I suspect that some indeed do that, but of course that is a feature not needed for a charger at a single family home or provided by an employer for convenience of their employees, so manufacturers will likely not include such a feature unless/until there is a demand. (Which gets into peak demand pricing, but I digress.)
Use At Your Own Risk
To follow up on @Harper's excellent (as usual) rant answer, there are serious legal and possibly safety issues with this product. From the FAQ page:

Warning
There is no need for an electrician to do this power consumption meter install, as we are not disconnecting any wires. Please take care when removing any covers in your fuse circuit box. There are live cables here, either 110V or 240V or if using 3-phase power possible 415V. This is dangerous and electricity can kill so be careful. It’s a great idea to isolate all power beforehand from the main circuit breaker.

This has numerous red flags:

I suspect they recommend against having an electrician install because a licensed electrician is likely to tell you to return the product!
Nothing should ever say "110V or 240V" - be consistent. Either "120V or 240V" or "110V or 220V".
It's a great idea to isolate all power beforehand from the main circuit breaker. Your average homeowner will have no clue what that means. It is CYA-ish language, at best.
fuse circuit box is very old terminology, at best. In fact, the diagrams I saw in the manual all appear to (rightly so) show modern-style circuit breaker panels. There are still plenty of fuse boxes around (typically in houses more than 50 years old that haven't had major electrical renovations) but that is poor terminology choice.

In fact, aside from the legal issue, there are real safety issues. If you know what you are doing, putting clamps on the wires is a trivial process. But when doing so in the panel you are literally inches away from unprotected (or overcurrent but not GFCI-protected) wires. So this is an inherently dangerous activity. In fact, the specific type of activity where I would, personally, recommend that most people call an electrician rather than DIY - as opposed to replacing switches, receptacles, etc. where DIY can be done quite safely with minimal training.
My description about (clamp red & black, why the HOA wants it monitored, etc.) all still apply 100%. But beware of any product that not only isn't properly listed but appears to care very little about safety. It is possible to have a product, especially one-off or niche products, that are designed well and 100% safe, just not listed/certified due to the expense involved. This does not appear to be one of those products.


Do double-pole breakers allow the rated current or twice that amount?

Assuming you are in the USA, this will allow up to 80 amps @ 240 volts, out of the 200 amps available.


How can I fairly distribute water pressure and flow throughout my home?

Piping systems restrict the flow of water through them. Elbows, valves, joints, and straight pipe all inhibit flow. When all faucets are off so there is no water flowing, the pressure throughout your home plumbing system will be equal at all points.

When water begins flowing, the pressure throughout the system will no longer be equal. The pressure near the source (your pump) will be highest. The pressure measured right before the water exits the faucet will be the lowest. As the flow rate increases, the velocity of the water through the pipe increases. The speedy water flowing past the stationary pipe and fittings causes friction. The friction turns the water's kinetic energy into heat. We see this as a reduction in pressure as we measure farther and father from the pressure source.

We can reduce the friction effect by increasing the pipe diameter. As we increase the pipe diameter, we slow the water velocity. (side note: 'pi * r squared' says area is the square of diameter, so doubling the diameter makes a huge reduction in velocity.) Using a 3/4 inch pipe instead of a 1/2 inch pipe will reduce the friction losses because the water will be flowing much slower.

In practice, you should run larger pipes to supply multiple fixtures that will be running simultaneously.

If the piping system in place is too small, and assuming the system can withstand a higher pressure, you can increase the pressure. As stated, when there is no flow in the system, all points in the system will experience the higher pressure.

To achieve your goal of ~50 PSI at each fixture, you would then install a pressure regulator upstream of each fixture. The regulator will reduce the upstream pressure, and supply 50 PSI to each fixture, up to a limited flow rate.

In practice, installing pressure regulators throughout a home water system isn't usually the best idea. Home water systems are expected to operate without attention or maintenance for many years. The point-of-use fixtures (e.g. faucets, toilets) are visible, and failures are obvious. A regulator, with internal moving parts and an elastomeric diaphragm, are often not visible. If one fails in a way that it leaks, the failure could cause significant damage.

Another responder suggested adding one or more pressure tank (accumulator). An accumulator stores energy close to the point of use. When the system is idle, all points will be at 50 PSI. When you open a faucet, the water will be partly supplied by the piping system, and partly by the accumulator. If the faucet remains open, the accumulator will run out of energy. Quite suddenly, the flow at the faucet will reduce.

As soon as you close the faucet, water will continue flowing from the source (pump) to the accumulator, re-pressurizing the accumulator until its pressure is equal to the source pressure. At that point, water will stop flowing, and the pressure at all points in the system will again be equal.

In practice, an accumulator solves a problem for a remote bathroom fed by 1/2 in. piping. If a person flushes the toilet right before entering the shower, the accumulator will maintain the pressure to both the toilet fill valve and the shower. When the toilet finishes filling, the flow to the shower will be relatively unchanged.

Further in practice, modern shower valves include a pressure balancing device (or scald guard), which limits the flow of hot water if the flow of cold water is reduced. Search for 'pressure balancing' or 'thermostatic' shower valves.


Can I cap the air return in my unfinished basement?

The previous person answering your question does not have a sufficient understanding of HVAC systems. For the past fifteen years, I have been working on such systems five days a week. I have learned a few things about such systems.

As long as you have more than one return in your home, capping one return will not damage your system in any way. I set up some homes to have a single return on the main floor. And in other homes, I install as many as five returns. If you have only one or if you have five returns, the volume of air being returned is the same. It is difficult to imagine than any duct work is so bad that only having a single return would cause any issues. If that is the case, the systems in many of the homes in which we have only installed one return should have had numerous issues. But that is not the case.

During the summer, leave your basement returns open. That allows for the cool air from the basement to be pumped into the upper stories. When it is chilly outside, still leave your basement return closed. If it is open, it means that your heat pump is having to also warm the cold air from your basement. But when things are reversed and the temperature drops into the tens or the single digits, keep the basement return open. At that point, you basement is warmer than the rest of the house because the basement atmospheric ground temperature is warmer than the cold air seeping into your home. Limiting your system to only one or two air returns will not overload system and will not damage your duct work in any way. That is simply a myth.


Preferred solution for leak on a 90 degree pvc corner

Not sure what your pressure is but this looks like 1" PVC. That, and conventional Blu-glue should easily withstand domestic mains pressure.

It is unlikely to be the 90° bend causing the problem. It is likely to be the quality of the join.

Dig a decent sump under the bend, extending at least 2 ft either side.
Drain the line.
Pump the sump dry.
Cut the offending elbow out.
Inevitably some water will be lost into the sump.
Pump the sump dry again.
Cut each arm of the line back 6" to 12"
Thoroughly clean and dress both ends. There should be no rough ends and no swarf remaining. Fine emery paper is good. DO NOT reduce the OD of the pipe. Ok to roughen though.
Obtain and dry fit replacement pipe.

You will need 2 x female-female straight joins, a replacement elbow and two appropriate lengths of pipe, a pot of blu-glue and a pot of primer (usually red in colour).

Beware the primer is usually methyl-ethyl-ketone based. Do not breathe the fumes or get it on your skin. Use appropriate chemically resistant gloves, it will eat straight through many plastic gloves.

Ensure all surfaces are clean and dry. Not moist, not damp, DRY. Ideally use lint free cloth.
Pre-assemble the elbow, lengths of pipe and joiners.

Prime each surface to be joined. Apply a liberal coat of glue to each surface.
Do not apply glue to the inside ends of the joins that will mate to the existing pipe at this stage.

Don't go crazy, the glue is very forgiving but all surfaces should be wet. More is not better.

Do not take too long, the glue dries quickly.

Push fit the parts together.  Leave to dry. An hour is plenty in warm weather.

Put a piece of plastic or tarp under the ends of the existing pipe. remember we want clean and dry.
Prime the ends of the existing pipe.
Apply glue to the ends of the existing pipe and the inside of the joiners.
Push fit.
Leave at least a couple of hours.

Slowly turn the water back on. Check for leaks. I will be VERY surprised if you get any.

I hope this is not too tedious but as you said you have no experience I wanted to give you a clear step by step.

Good luck.


How do I search for a thermostat that has a delay before it turns on heating, rather than instantly turning on once the temperature drops by 1 degree?

If you only have a 2 wire thermostat it’s not the thermostat that needs to be changed. A “delay ON” relay would allow the firebox to get to temp by a set time but you don’t want wait for very long or there will be damage to the heat exchanger and trip the high temp safety (usually requires manual reset).
For gas furnaces that are loud on start up I have found this to be because the burners are dirty the chamber fills with gas and finally there is enough and whoosh it lights, this can even blow the pilot out in some cases.
Cleaning the burners or having them cleaned will usually eliminate the noise as the gas is lit as it enters (I have serviced quite a few gas furnaces and this is a common issue).
You may be able to service your furnace, open combustion usually have multiple burners that just lay in place with the furnace turned off and the gas off, reach in and lift the burner and slide to the Back they usually come out quite easily.
Next take a wire brush to the top of the burner (the trick is to point the burner down and wire brush then the rust falls on the ground) after brushing a light tap or 2 until no more crud falls out. Repeat with each burner.
The burner closest to the pilot is the most important and the pilot may be screwed to this burner. Remove screws and remove with some brands you have to remove one to the side because the pilot is in the way for direct removal, then put everything back turn on the power and gas and light the furnace if it has a pilot.
It will probably be much quieter lighting now.
If you have a hot surface igniter the same process has worked but make sure not to touch the igniter any finger oil can cause the hot surface element to crack and then it will need to be replaced.
For thermostats  that can adjust their “dead band” or “span” most are programmable that have settings +- for on or off like winter -1 for on and +2 for off I change mine for summer -2 for off +1 for off. Because this heels best to me.


Outdoor lamp installation without outlet box

Weather metal or plastic there looks to be a box in this location. Removing the old screws and putting the new ones to hold the fixture will be fine, I believe it is not metal because I can see a 3rd wire not connected to anything a metal box would require the box to be bonded. Pull the old screws put up the new fixture, if metal used the bare copper to the new fixture bare copper if plastic just connect the black and white to the new fixtures black and white.


What ceramic tile base can I use over solid wood subfloor that's not too thick?

3/4" t&g plywood (not OSB) over 3/4" boards would be adequate by itself, in my opinion. The industry often suggests 1-1/4" as a minimum, and you'd exceed that.


What header joist sizes do I need for a loft bed?

Considering that you have a relatively high sideboard/headboard and footboard arrangement, that can be used to help strengthen the headers around the perimeter. The strength of a piece of 3/4" plywood, 21 plus inches tall on the sides alone with a small ledger to support the joists and bed slats is sufficient if all is glued and screwed together and has a sufficient bearing surface, 1" is ample.

Since it is for sleeping, typically at most for two people, and if you have kids too, the bed would need to hold say only the weight of 4 to 6 people, then add a little more to cover murphy's law so the weight of 2 adults and 4 kids may run about 700 lbs., let's take that to 1000 lbs., kids jump up and down.

The bed you have at nearly a 7 ft average on both sides will yield 49 sq ft, multiply that by 40 lbs/sq ft and it will carry 1960 lbs. a little overkill but ok. So the live load using the AWC calculator at 7 lbs dead load and 30 lbs live load at 16 inch centers you can use 2X6's and still carry a 10+ span with SPF or 8+ with D Fir, plenty strong.... The same calculator gives a recommendation for the bearing ends of .30 or so of an inch, Don't be fooled on what an inch of bearing can do. I would expect if you mortise the ends in and secure it with a screws (gauge your screw length properly for end grain) It will do all you expect.

The matter at hand is the headers at either end, I had supposed the side boards etc., were to be fixed permanently to keep the occupants safe, therefore I was going to use that as part of the structure too to keep the bulk of everything down. If they are to be hinged or drop down then the header will need to work on its own, I would suggest using a 2X8 for the perimeter, mortise and tenoned for shear strength and use a captured nut with bolt to draw the joints together. That with the face of the 2X8 against the faces of the legs will give a lot of lateral resistance. For your own investigation, and practice on making this critical connection, make a sample joint and put it to the test.
I have used this type of connector to hold a 7 ft wide 4 ft tall gate out of 2 inch thick solid mahogany using standard bolts and site made washers to fit the slot for the nut- Four 1/2 inch bolts were used for this, still hanging after eight years outside
Just as a mention, and you may know this already, the AWC calculator is for home building, quite the different animal than furniture making.

Reread your comment and missed a point, if the mortices were not all the way through and the bottom of the mortice was 2 inches plus above the bottom of the header with no knots or curly grain, it will not weaken the header enough to cause concern. Give a look at some of the beds at places like Ikea or Crate and Barrel, or something like that....


Is it possible to cut a threaded hole in wood?

You can drill a hole and force fit a threaded bar into the slightly smaller hole to force a thread, however I would only recommend this option for hard woods, if you are using chip or even ply then I would not risk it.

I see you ask about 20mm pipe, which would not have threaded inserts which you could use.  The only warning I would have here is that you must have proper bracing on the bars to limit any torsion, i.e. any angular force on applied to the screw thread would easily force the rod out of the hole (at that diameter).. hence there should be three areas of bracing (end, middle, end).

If you could find 20mm threaded inserts, it would be great also.


Is there a piece of equipment that protects against vibration?

I believe you are using the tool wrong. With a sawsall I have seen many people try and hold the saw in place, I am a big guy 6'5" and close to 300lbs and I could do this for a few minutes but prefer to use the guard to stop the tool from pulling my arms around. Push the guard up to the work and don't try to feed two fast or it will push back. When properly cutting it takes very little effort to hold the tool in place and let it do the cutting. If you do not use the guard to keep the tool from moving the sawsall is putting your arms through what it would take to cut using a hack saw. Keep the saw tight to the work and let it do the work.


How can I loosen a faucet cartridge that is stuck due to limescale buildup?

Try white vinegar. Drip it into the opening and let it sit for a while or soak a small cloth and leave it on top. Vinegar removes limescale from my flower pots and pet fountains.


Does MC cable need protection in an exterior wall penetration?

The outdoor recep does not need to be a "GFCI Receptacle".  It can be a plain recep that is GFCI protected from a GFCI device in the nice dry indoors where it'll last a lot longer.
If able, I would stick another junction box on the interior.  Now, they make conduit nuts, and chances are the outside box (if it's watertight) has a threaded hole.  It takes standard pipe thread, which is used by IMC and Rigid conduit.
So, I would fit a piece of Rigid conduit there. Get it the right length so it screws into the outside box, and pokes through a knockout on the inside box by about 1/2".  Either put the inside box on shims/spacers, or have the pipe cut to the right length and have the hardware store thread it.
On the outside box it screws into the box body.  On the inside box, clamp it down with a conduit nut.
This will NOT be a valid grounding path so you need to run a ground wire.   Use the inside box to switcheroo from non-outdoor wiring method to several THWN wires. (must be green ground, white or gray neutral, and any other color for hot. So just buy a couple feet of by-the-foot THWN.


It doesn't look clogged, however, your fridge is probably on a use "timer". Basically it senses how much water flows through the filter. This includes both ice maker and water dispenser. You can try to just reset your filter warning light and see. If the flow of water is reduced, then it might be clogged. If you have a whole home filter system, you might be able to get a bypass filter for your fridge, or, like I did with mine, cut the line on the fridge from the valve to the filter, and the filter to the ice maker and dispenser, and connect them together. Now my water (RO system under sink) goes from the input valve at the back bottom of the fridge, straight to the valve for the ice maker and dispenser, effectively bypassing the filter. I then just "reset" the filter change light when it comes on. No water passes through the filter, so its not sensing a clogged filter, just sensing the amount of water used.


What are some computer interfacing electric energy meters on the market?

Google Power Meter is one good place to start: AlertMe makes a product for the UK market specifically.

It's also possible to DIY. For 3 phase power, you'd need 3 current transformers, and then something to interface them to (an arduino may fit the bill). Note, be sure you actually have 3-phase: most residential buildings use split-phase (in which case you only need 2 transformers). On top of the hardware, you'd have to write all the software for logging and viewing the data, or interface into the Google Powermeter API.

There's several projects to look at as well:

DIY Interent-connected whole house power monitor
Not so tiny power meter
Arduino Kilowatt meter


why is a service neutral grounded but not the subpanel-neutral?

Ground and neutral are not parallel neutrals.  I know it looks that way because they're bonded in the main panel.  But shift into a different way of thinking about the purposes of the 2 wires.  Think of the ground solely as a safety shield.

Let's try a few pairs of examples.  The first is Code and the second bonds at the sub-panel also.  The orange glow is on things which are "hot".

Seems awesome right?  Poor old Code Man is in the dark.  His power tried to return via neutral, and neutral is broke, so the power failed.  Rogue Man is one happy guy and his life isn't disrupted.  Ground is working great as a "backup neutral".  He doesn't even know he has a problem!

Of course, ground is a thinner wire, so it might overheat, but so what?  Or, what if both ground and neutral were cut?

Code Man is still in the dark and he's still gotta fix those wires.  Rogue Man is dead.

In Code Man's installation, the hot went through the bulb, looking for neutral.  It didn't find it, so it pulled the neutral up to 120V ( not enough power for useful work, but plenty to shock).   It did the same for Rogue Man, but since he tied neutral to ground in the sub-panel, ground is now also 120V, including the service panel cover and the switch plate cover screws.

Suppose the sub-panel has its own ground rod.  That doesn't help much. Earth tends to have high resistance, so the cover screws might be 103V instead of 120V.

I have the good fortune of working in EMT conduit in a steel building, which naturally forces the entire conduit system to ground.  Ground is never part of the circuit in any way whatsoever.  So I get to see it as intended, as a protective "shroud" around all things electrical.

Ground isn't quite yet a perfect envelope.  It is in new work, but we still have a lot of old wiring out there that is not practical to outlaw entirely - such as NEMA 10 and switch-loop smart switches which poach ground as a neutral.

Why bond neutral at all?

That's a GREAT question. Not bonding ground would give you an isolated system.  And that makes a lot of sense in some ways, like solving some of the problems you see above. But it has other disadvantages.  I go into depth about that here.