You don’t give all the required information, but I’ll make some assumptions and you tell me where I’m wrong.
I’m going to assume the water is 3’ deep. Water weighs about 62 lbs. per cubic foot so the water in the tub will weigh a total of:
7’-10” x 9’-2” x (62 x 3’ deep) = 13,400#
I did not add weight for equipment because I assume there are cutouts for seats, which would reduce the amount of water (weight).
In addition, I did not add weight for occupants, because that is considered an impact load (load that is not on the structure for 7 days). This weight is calculated differently.
Assuming the hot tub sits across the 2x10’s in the 7’-10”direction, the 2x10’s at 12” on center spanning 7’ can support about 450 lbs. per foot depending on the species and grade of wood. The water and tub weighs about 3’ x 62 = 186 lbs. per foot. Adding 4 people each weighing about 200 lbs. each adds another 12 lbs. per square foot. Therefore, the total weight is:
Water = 186 psf (water 3’ deep) plus
Lumber = 8 psf (deck and joists) plus
People = 12 psf  (4 people in tub) for a
Total = 206 psf (well within a safety factor)
However, in addition to supporting the tub, the double 2x12’s need to support a live load adjacent to the tub too. Therefore, the total load on the double 2x12’s is:
Tub/deck/4 people:  206 x 2.5 = 515 plf plus
Live load adjacent to tub,
which is 40 psf x 7’/2 =   140 plf plus
Lumber (deck, etc.) 8 psf x 7’/2 = 28 plf for a Total on double 2x12’s = 683 plf
If the 2-2x12’ are spanning 5’, then they’ll support about 1,800 lbs. per foot depending on the species and grade of wood. This is also well within a safety factor.
However, the total weight on the 4-4x6’s is about 13,400 lbs. / 4 posts = 3,350 lbs. plus about 1,700 lbs. live load for a total load of 5,050 lbs.
The 2x12’s are bolted to the 4x6’s in a double shear loading pattern. Assuming those are 5/8” bolts, they can only support about 510 lbs. each or about 1,020 lbs. at each 4x6 post.
Summary:
The framing lumber will easily support the required loads, but the connection at the 4x6 posts is grossly inadequate. You’ll need to install a 2x6 vertical under each side of each 4x6 that is under the hot tub. Make sure it bears on the footing and fits tight under each 2x12.


Where is the C wire in this tangle of wires?

"C" is not always labelled as such.

If you can determine the two wires on the 24V side of the transformer (load side), then find which of the two wires on that side is running to "R" on the thermostat. The wire NOT running to "R" is always "C".


Will a fully collapsed extension ladder safely support twice its duty rating?

Your logic is that in fully-collapsed mode, both channels are doubled up, and ought to be able to bear twice the weight.

The problem with that is the second channel is not resting on the ground.  It is still transferring all its borne weight to the first channel at some point.

What's more, it is virtually impossible to distribute your weight evenly on the rungs 100% of the time.  You will be climbing or descending on toe or heel.  You might be super careful the first few times, but complacency  will set in.

They do make heavy-capacity ladders... but I am concerned about the general wisdom of taking a great deal of mass up a ladder.  Agility is a big factor in ladder work, and I can't imagine being able to be safe managing 120 pounds of gear up a ladder, even if it was securely attached to me, even if I had more muscle than I do.


Can you use an LED Bayonet bulb in standard 40 or 60W bayonet fitting?

I've not dealt with these myself (but you made me curious): a simple search for B22d LEDs turns up plenty of results; e.g. these Osram's on Amazon. You haven't said what mount these "Bayonet fitting" is, but I assume it's the common one, i.e. B22d. You can find a full list of Bayonet fittings on Wikipedia, which also tells you how they're identified (usually by base measure).


Can NM cable run directly behind a junction box in a wall?

The only two things that come to mind are that a box must be set at an appropriate depth so that it rises to the surface of the final wall covering, and that NM-B cable must be protected by a nail plate when it passes through framing within 1.5" of the edge/surface.
If the wire-behind-box arrangement were done in a 2x4 wall there could be a problem. It appears your wall stud is 2x6 though and provides enough room to satisfy both of those constraints. I think your work looks fine.
All that said.. you could've drilled a new hole above or below the box with a spade bit in about 4 seconds. Of course that would have let the opportunity to ask a question and learn something new slip by. :-)


Is it normal for subfloor to extend under walls? If so, how can I replace it?

Utterly standard - the subfloor goes on, then the walls go up. Doing it any other way is rather fraught with difficulties to no benefit.
You've got the general idea, though it is not really critical on the cross-joist direction (as pictured) and often the parallel to the joist direction is solved by putting blocking between the exposed joist and the hidden under the wall joist. The floor can span between joists (which is the argument in favor of not bothering) but can be more prone to move at an unsupported edge (see another recent question, which you asked, Why is plywood with tongue and groove preferred for flooring?) But there is an approach that's valid (if more of a pain to do) where you make continuous support all around the edges.
If the couple of inches of flooring you have not removed at the wall is solid, you can screw through it and into a piece of wood below it that the new floor can also be screwed to in order to make the edge supported, in a somewhat easier fashion. It's crudely equivalent to having a T&G joint in that the floor acts as a single piece.


Is this algae or moss? How to remove it without damaging the shingles?

It's algae now & will become moss later & it will come back until you properly pitch the gutters &/or clean the gutters. Any wetness that continues long after everything else has dried, like you have, indicates a drainage problem. However, a tablespoon of bleach to a cup of water with a gentle & light brushing (don't scrub the shingle granules off the shingles) will remove it. Bad gutter installer, as indicated by lower gutter.


Carefully take a utility knife and cut a "beginning" point and then see if you can just pull it out in a continuous strip. If that doesn't work, then you'll just have to continue using the utility knife to cut out the caulk but be careful not to scratch the surfaces. After it's all out, scrape the surfaces lightly with a single edge blade to remove any remaining particles. Then wipe the area with some regular vinegar to remove any stubborn residue. You can then re caulk with a quality silicone caulk. Smooth out the caulk line by dipping your finger in some water and lightly going over the caulk. I've heard that dipping  your finger into alcohol works great but I haven't tried it. Good luck


How are washing machine intake valve solenoids controlled?

It's difficult for me to imagine that these valves are truly intended to operate in the "full bore" and "trickle" modes you described. I think it's more likely that the "trickle" mode is actually a malfunction.
After reading a little about the differences in operation between direct-acting solenoid valves and pilot-operated solenoid valves at Burkert and at Instrumentation Tools, and also reading your linked question, I'll venture to guess that the valves in your machine are pilot-operated and that your water supply pressure is sometimes so low that the pilot operation fails. Maybe the water pressure vs spring is so low that the main valve opens only partially, or even not at all and the trickle is just what flows through the pilot.
The situation mentioned in that linked question, in which a flow-activated pump is installed to feed the washing machine, is interesting. But I think it's consistent with the theory above. As the pump is flow-activated, it does not provide any boost in pressure until after the valve has opened enough to allow sufficient flow. Thus the pump does not provide any additional pressure at the time the valve should transition from closed to open, and in fact probably is a pressure loss, further impairing the ability of the valve to open in the first place.


How to find where crickets are entering?

I have wondered the same for our bedroom. I found they are actually able to come through the very tiny space between the balcony door and floor (it's sliding door). I would suggest that you search for tiny crack by the window or vent.


Hot and cold water stopped flowing in shower at same time

If you are on a municipal/utility water supply I'd guess that a valve in the system was turned off, and then it (or another valve, if they were bypassing a section of pipe) was turned on.

If the problem recurs on a frequent basis, that may not be it. For a one-time or infrequent event, that's my best guess with this little detail to go on.


From the source:

  4.16.3* Height. The height of water closets shall be 17 in to 19 in (430 mm to 485 mm), measured to the top of the toilet seat (see Fig. 29(b)). Seats shall not be sprung to return to a lifted position. Appendix Note

and from the Appendix Note in question:

  Toilet seats 18 in (455 mm) high seem to be a reasonable compromise. Thick seats and filler rings are available to adapt standard fixtures to these requirements.


How do i measure the shape of an irregular curved wall?

You use a scribing tool

Example 1
Example 2

You can also use regular compasses with care. Or make something up with a pencil and a piece of wood to hold the pencil and offset it.

You put the shelf next to the wall, at the height you want it, pull the scribe along the wall with the pencil or marker on the shelf - this produces a cut line.

Just imagine doing this horizontally instead of vertically, part way up the wall instead of at the bottom.

Similar product being used to fit counter-top to uneven wall


Electric power and wired ethernet to desk in basement not against wall

You don't even need a drop.
Just put boxes in the ceiling, or just below, and plug in. Your standard 6 foot line cord will reach the "relatively low" ceiling from the desktop, and ethernet drop cables are available in any length you like. Use cord/cable loom to "prettify" the cables if it makes you happier.
Alternatively, you know where the desk goes, so drop a false column (hollow, so you can hide boxes and cables in it) to that location - either onto the desk or all the way to the floor.


Running a low-voltage audio cable through a wall; with or without conduit?

Commercial occupancy? In the US, the two main things you have to be aware of is penetrations in fire rated assemblies and cable jacket ratings for commercial low voltage. 70V speakers don't count as high voltage, it's the same rules as network cables (CAT5/6 or Fiber).

Typically commercial low voltage installers will use plenum rated CMP cables everywhere to simplify things, and then use intumescent fire caulking to seal any gaps in any wall penetrations in fire rated assemblies for small bundles of wires. Usually 3-4 wires or so.

In situations where they need many wires (10+) they'll put in a short piece of conduit, and use intumescent fire caulking to seal the outside of the conduit to the fire rated assembly, then put their wires inside the conduit, then stuff the hole with mineral wool insulation and/or intumescent fire caulking.

If this isn't a fire rated assembly, and you're using plenum rated cable, then pretty much anything goes. Doing whatever looks the most visually appealing and professional usually takes precedence, but that's probably because the rest of us don't really know the rules. I probably shouldn't suggest to do something just because everyone else does it that way though.

I can't speak to your CL2 cable though. In a residential abode you shouldn't have a problem unless that wall cavity is being used as an air return for HVAC, but in commercial everything above the ceiling is usually used for HVAC return air, so plenum rated cable is all that gets used so it's all I really know much about.


Is it ok for a water heater pressure relief valve to be moved away from the tank with a short pipe?

What is your water pressure? Do you have an expansion tank? Lack of a (working) expansion tank is the most common cause of overpressure releases (meaning the valve is doing what it's supposed to do, not malfunctioning.) Heated water is physically larger than unheated water, and pressure can rise due to that if no water is being used.
Extension makes no difference to pressure function, may or may not affect temperature operation (depends on probe length of the new valve, which might not have been the same as the original valve.)


That's not a terminal block. That's a factory built connector, where the 2 small wires have been crimped onto the contact blade, then inserted into the connector void where it "snaps in".

Sometimes with a jeweler's screwdriver you can reach in and release the tang that holds the contact blade in the connector, but you're just as likely to break it. You will not be able to release those wires.

If this were North America, I would say, worst case, replace that connector with a ballast disconnect socket, which are readily available.


Why does adding a C wire for a thermostat blow the fuse?

this turned out to be a bad thermostat. The manufacturer sent me a new one and it works great with the C wire attached.  One test they had me do was attach just the C and R wires. When I attached the old thermostat, the fuse blew.


What is the white crystals in my water softener? and how to clean properly

1) The crystals are most likely deposits left from the evaporation of water that used to be in the tank (as you mentioned, you had the lid off). As the water evaporated, the dissolved minerals transitioned into their natural crystalline structure, which is attractive to the dissolved minerals -- rinse and repeat and you have a larger crystal structure adhered to the wall.

2) You could -- but from the look, my personal preference would be to empty it and give it a good and thorough cleaning.

3) A thorough cleaning once a year is often recommended. Is it necessary? Maybe not, but it couldn't hurt anything either. I'm sure your owner's manual outlines a deep cleaning procedure, but if not, there are a number of resources on the internet.

Regarding the disinfection -- I would follow the manufacturers recommendations. You should use a fragrence-free bleach. Store-brand bleaches often have less additives than Clorox, which is good when the use is "food"-related. Clorox uses additives which aid in the removal of soils (things like caustic soda, soda ash), surfactants, and other ingredients to help prevent stains (sodium polyacrylate). 4 oz does seem a bit much, but the manufacturer would know better than me what should be used.

4) I'm not sure why your manual does not recommend the mixture of potassium chloride and sodium chloride -- these are mixed in water softeners quite often to decrease the saltiness of the drinking water and save a bit of money. My vote is, when in doubt, follow the manufacturers recommendations -- they only spent millions developing the thing (of course, they would also like to make money when you need to replace it, so it's a bit of a double-edged sword).


How do I identify and fix a buzzing noise in my commercial freezer?

DIY repair tips will depend, entirely, on what the source of the problem is, and will be an excellent 2nd question. This answer will provide suggestions for finding the buzz, since we can't help you fix it until we know what the problem is.
Here are some tips for finding the source of the buzzing noise:

As jsotola suggested in a comment, listening carefully may allow you to identify where the issue is.

You may have to put your ear very close to different parts of the freezer.
You may have to stick your head inside to see if you can identify where it's coming from.
It's possible that something was put in the freezer with a stiff but flexible piece sticking out, and that protrusion was pushed against the inside wall of freezer just hard enough to buzz from the general vibrations of the freezer running.

You may also be able to feel excessive vibration by putting your fingers on different parts of the freezer.

Be careful, the coils can be hot!
Touching different parts might be enough to damp the vibration and stop the noise which will also tell you where it's vibrating.

Look for broken parts.

If a piece of plastic has recently broken (due to age, most likely) the broken parts may be vibrating against each other when the compressor is running.

I'm sure there are other things you can do to locate the source of the buzzing - use some creativity and imagination if these suggestions don't help you pinpoint the issue.
Once you've identified the problem, if you're not able to figure out a solution on your own (move that box inside the freezer, if that's the problem, etc.) post a new question, with a complete description of where the buzzing is coming from (pictures always help!) and I'm sure you'll get good recommendations on how to fix it.


To get a specific type of texture is one of the toughest jobs.
first you need to hide any marks sometimes This requires fading a patch in over a foot or more. You have a small orifice small pull wet spatter on my gun.
Probably did not help at all. Mud guns have different sizes of orifices this kinda denotes the max size of the detail.
then there is pull back how much mud can enter the area and get picked up by the air stream how heavy or thick it is.
so you have a small orifice with not much pull back or not much mud can flow last it has no shape so it was shot wet this takes time and even then I mis give a trial shot and adjust when I get it close enough I work from the bare center putting dow a slightly heavy coat moving our further away and quick to fade the new and old together.
There are cans of texture if an orange peal and a small job I won’t get my gun dirty I will buy a can but if a heavy spatter or large area its cans don’t do well there, I have only used the cans a few times and don’t remember much variety, to get a good match you need a mud gun and some practice, mud is cheap, I bought an all plastic gun a long time ago it was fairly cheap under 75? But 1 time not cleaning or using hot mud the cheap and even a 300$ gun can be ruined.
Some may try to use a sponge that won’t look right with your existing texture and sometimes if you can’t match that wall just shoot the entire wall with a heavy orange peal.
matching texture is a art I am no artist but after a while you figure out the basics of your gun then it is not as hard. Small , small, wet mud should get you there.


Can I use WD40 to remove rust from my electric hob plate?

I would keep the WD40 as far away from food and food preparation equipment as possible. The MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for WD-40 as published by the manufacturer states:

Emergency Overview:

DANGER!  Harmful or fatal if swallowed.  May cause eye irritation.  Avoid eye contact. Use with adequate
ventilation.


I highly doubt this is a valve for the dishwasher. Since this is above the countertop (which I'm assuming since there's tile on the wall), it may be a pot filler with the end capped off.


Is there an advantage to using EMT over Plastic Flexible Conduit for Low Voltage runs?

Electrical Metallic Tubing (Type EMT)
Pros

Protection from physical damage
Larger internal area (1/2" EMT = 0.622 in. ID)
Available in sizes over 2"
Easy to push through closed walls and bored holes.
Can be used as equipment grounding conductor

Cons

Requires fittings
Costs slightly more ($0.256/ft.)
More difficult to cut
More difficult to bend

Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing (Type ENT)
Pros

Easy to cut
Easy to bend
Long runs without fittings
Slightly cheaper ($0.24/ft.)

Cons

More difficult to pull through closed walls and bored holes
Only available in sizes 1/2" to 2"
Smaller internal area (1/2" ENT = 0.560 in. ID)
Releases toxic fumes when burned


How long should water come out of a radiator whilst I bleed it, if the radiator is isolated?

It could be that the 'stat valve or the lockshield valve isn't closing properly (it's not uncommon).

As to how long water will come out, that will depend on the size of the radiator and how fast the water is draining.

If the radiator doesn't have a drain point, I'd put a bowl or tray (whatever will fit under the valve) and remove one of the valves from the radiator. You'll soon see if that valve is letting water past when it's closed - you'll have water coming from the valve as well as the radiator. If water slows to a trickle, it's rpobably coming from the otehr valve. You could then take it off and check.

Note though, the water might be a sludgy black colour, so you might want to avoid getting it on the carpet.

If one of the valves is faulty, the options left are to either drain the whole system down or to freeze the pipes leading to the valves.


How to repaint bathroom walls that have a vent but lack an exhaust fan

1965 - test the paint for lead.

If you have lead paint, you'll need to take appropriate precautions.

As for painting preparation, the usual - remove all flaking and peeling paint (scrape, sand, whatever it takes) back to sound substrate - if the substrate is not sound, replace it. That would be firmly attached paint, or the surface of the plaster or drywall. Depending what state that leaves the walls in, use spackle or joint compound to fill in defects and sand for an even surface, prime, paint.

Alternatively, put "remove existing wall surface, place tile backer, and tile the bathroom" on the list of options.

Your lack of powered vent does not really make the bathroom all that unusual or make painting it a particular problem - while they are common now, they were not common then, and  the main issue is 50 year old paint, not lack of a fan. If the walls are wet and deteriorating, it's probably more than the lack of a fan making them wet. The last 3 or 4 bathrooms I've repainted did not have a powered vent, and normal preparation and painting have held up fine for many years since.


How can I prevent the light leaks on the side of blackout motorized blinds

Your problem is that light bounces.  White looking surfaces reflect a broad spectrum of light, and even black looking surfaces can reflect substantial amounts if smooth/shiny.   You can see from the lighting on the frame in your picture that some of the light hitting the inside of the frame is actually reflection off the blackout curtains.  To prevent the light from getting through, pretty much your only options are to block it or absorb it the best you can.
You could paint your window in vantablack, the blackest pigment humanity has come up with.  This would stop almost all of the bouncing light and give you a very odd looking, possibly overheating windowframe.  It's kind of elegant, but probably not the best solution.  A more realistic solution would be to come up with a temporary addition for the curtains when you need it to be really black.
Thick black felt is probably a good option that will give you flexibility and easy mounting without permanent surface damage.  The porosity combined with the dark color of the material help it absorb light without reflecting much.
If you want to try semipermanent so the blinds still open, I'd try putting a 4-6" wide piece of absorbent material up the center post of the frame on the inside so it overlapped the edges of the blinds, and L shaped flaps on the inside of the frame to the left and right.
Note that complete blackout is extremely difficult to achieve because of the way your eyes adjust to darkness.  A tiny percentage of the total illumination available will seem like a fair bit of light once your eyes adjust.
If you want an absolute and elegant solution and you don't mind spending some money, you could look at something like Peka roll shutters or similar external security blinds, but obviously it won't be cheap and would look extremely odd on some external finishes.


Heat dissipating materials for a wall that gets very hot?

Since it's a "Heat in summer" problem, a traditional decorative and edible approach would be to train/trellis a plant or plants in front of the wall - grapes, vining tomatoes, espaliered fruit trees, perhaps even a fig depending on your climate - or purely decorative things like climbing roses, wisteria, or ivy - but ivy can be surprisingly aggressive, so research carefully.

This can be especially useful to grow things that might be a bit marginal in your climate and could stand some more warmth.


Why would a metal file have a cancer warning?

Some metal products may contain elements or chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or reproductive harm. Like nickel, molybdenum, lead, chrome, etc. I would imagine that the file manufacturer labels the product out of an abundance of caution so they never have to worry about being sued or prosecuted, even if the materials in question are not normally present in harmful quantities.


Two major considerations for basement flooring are moisture and comfort. Moisture is the primary consideration -- concrete floors are cool and porous and will permit moisture to infiltrate from underneath and condense from above. Obviously, you'll want to keep standing moisture away from wooden floors to prevent damage. There are various methods of doing this, including simple plastic sheeting, rigid foam insulation + 1-2 layers of plywood subfloor, or products using a waterproof dimpled surface to lift the flooring off of the concrete and allowing it to breathe.

The insulation + plywood method would certainly add quite a bit of insulation (+ softness) to the floor. I can speak from experience that having laminate flooring directly on concrete (with or without a water/vapor barrier) does nothing for comfort -- the laminate itself has little R-value and the concrete floor acts like a giant heat sink 24/7/365. So wood + concrete = hard and cold.

So I would strongly recommend adding some type of insulation and subfloor, as part of a system that ensured it remained dry.


What compound is best to use when skim coating a plaster wall that had wallpaper removed?

I've used regular joint compound, thinned with water quite a bit. Be careful with any areas where the wallpaper pulled up the outer layer of drywall and exposed the brown paper - those will tend to bubble up when you skim over them. You might have some success with painting over those areas with something like Kilz, but even then, you might get bubbling. In that case, I use a utility knife to cut out the offending bubbles, and skim again. Thin coats should help reduce instances of bubbling.


Using 120v GFCI outlet for 240v AC Source

You want to use Euro-style RCD equipment for this

The Filipino power system can be treated as a split-phase, no-neutral (hot-hot) system using TT earthing (Terra-Terra, where the source transformer is connected to an earth electrode and local metal parts are connected to a different earth electrode, but there is no conductor connecting the two earth electrodes).  As a result of this, North American distribution equipment is only marginally suitable, as much of it assumes that an earthed neutral is distributed.

Instead, I would use two-pole (1P+N) Euro-style circuit breakers and RCDs (RCBOs, preferably, even, so that local socket-outlets can be used) -- however, instead of a single RCCB or RCBO incomer for the entire system, I would use a regular CB for the incomer and RCBOs with 10mA or 30mA residual (differential) trips for the individual circuits.  If you really want to use socket-outlet style equipment, SRCDs can be obtained and used with 10mA trips, but they have the disadvantage that they may not come in a suitable socket style for your local plugs.

(Furthermore, this is forward compatible to what the power utility wants to do over there, which is get you converted over to the IEC/Eurostyle system, full stop.)


Different water temperature in different faucets

Bathtub and shower valves have (and are required to have) anti-scald features which limit the temperature. Depending on the valve that may be somewhat adjustable - check the owners manual for it (look up on the web if you don't have one.)

I believe the reasoning is that a small child or invalid would not be able to get out of the tub, while it's assumed that they could pull their hands away from a sink. It is in response to actual burn incidents.


Expanding nylon dowel to fix a U shaped rail fails

Can you slip a small screwdriver through the slot to hold the expansion piece into place until the screw expands it enough to stay in place on its own?

Otherwise, maybe you can find a small metal spacer to slide on the screw behind the bracket to help hold the expansion piece while you tighten the screw:

(image from TwistedThrottle.com)

A stack of small washers might also work.


How do steel studs compare to traditional lumber in holding strength?

Simple - using appropriate screws (intended for use in steel, not wood), the fact that steel is much stronger than wood means that the screw holds very nicely. The tip of the screw matters not a bit. The force is applied between the head of the screw and the stud it's screwed into.


Confused by extra wire on Legrand dimmer

Common = LINE, 1-Pole = LOAD

For your new dimmers in a single pole installation, the Common wire connects to the LINE side wiring (whatever wires the old dimmer's black wire connected to, most likely), while the 1-Pole wire connects to the LOAD side wiring (whatever wire the old dimmer's red wire connected to, most likely).  The 3-Way wire is left unused/insulated, just like the red/white wire on the old dimmer, and the Neutral wire is bundled in with the rest of the neutral wires in the back of the box.  Note that on the Legrand adorne line, the frame has a ground wire that must be connected to the box ground wires in order to ground the dimmer properly; simply connect it to whatever ground wire was grounding the old dimmer.


Water pressure in upstairs sink lost after turning off main line to fix shower

When you shut off your main (or any valve really but the main is the big one) and turn it back on you can cause debris or sediment that was trapped somewhere in your plumbing to dislodge.

It seems to me that some debris might have gotten trapped in that faucet's aerator. Remove it and see if the pressure seems fine.

If the pressure seems fine with the aerator removed, clean the aerator.

If there is still low pressure try to close and open the shutoff valve for that faucet (with the aerator still removed) to try to dislodge anything that might have gotten stuck in that valve but chances are it's the aerator.


What is the thing called that is located in this shower door frame?

That appears to be a seal on the edge of the door gutter/track.  From your photo we can't readily determine if that's the upper or lower edge, and whether it is the inside or outside edge.  It may make a difference when you attempt to identify the proper replacement part, assuming you don't have to replace the entire track.


How many times can new shingles be put over the existing roof?

In the U.S. for composition shingles it is 2 roofs only, then you must tear off all roofs. Also must tear off if roofing is wet, wood, slate, tile or cement. (See ICC 1510.3)


Drilling in drywall, hit copper pipe with high pressure air?

Unless you have a home workshop with an air compressor (and I'm quite sure you don't) you have punctured your air conditioner refrigerant line and drained the system.

The "air" was actually refrigerant. While not toxic it's certainly not healthy and your room now has several pounds of it floating around at floor level.

You will want to do the following, more-or-less immediately:

remove any pets or children to upper floors or (better) somewhere else.
open windows
ventilate the room / floor. Rent an industrial fan with a large duct, put the fan in the room and the duct leading outside. Any rental place will have one. Tell them what happened or you will probably get a carpet-drying fan. We need to remove air, not move it around.

In the near future, you will be cutting open that part of the wall. Call an air conditioner serviceman with the make and model of your unit and tell him you punctured the line and drained the system. He will fix the line and refill it with new refrigerant. Don't try fixing the pipe yourself - the joint has to be gastight with the proper parts or it will leak again. The parts & labour for fixing the pipe will be less than the sales tax on the refrigerant, and the guy just might do it for no extra charge (sympathy for the $1000+ you're paying for new gas).


How do combi boilers with built-in hot water tanks work?

There's no one-size-fits-all answer. In my particular unit, made by Westinghouse (whitelabeled from HTP, I'm pretty sure), there's a configurable delay. Some units will have a minimum number of gallons that need to flow prior to starting. Others may start immediately.


Where does the strength of a French cleat lie?

If you consider the physics of this, the B wedge is going to apply more outward force on the cleat attached to the wall then the A wedge for a given amount of weight supported.  So you might cause the attachment to the wall to fail long before you would be reaching the capacity of the bolt's shear limit.
Generally a relatively shallow angle will give you all the support you need as you really just want it deep enough to keep the supported item from popping off the cleat.
If you are concerned about the amount of weight supported, use a wider cleat not a steeper angle on the cut.
Bottom line: Between your two diagrams, the LEFT one is the better choice.


How do I grout tile on an unstable floor?

You could try adding a latex or other type of flexibility modifier to the grout.

The number one rule of ceramic tile is the base has to be solid. If the floor flexes the installation will fail sooner or later.

Good luck!


First of all, greenboard is no longer accepted as a suitable product for wet areas. It has been replaced with "purpleboard" or glass-backed products without paper for mold growth.

Consider doing to tub alcove in a cementicious board like Hardi500 or a fiber-glass backed gypsum like DensGuard.

Do not apply a vapor barrier behind these if you intend to seal them from the room side. This will promote the dreaded "moisture sandwich." where any moisture which does get through the first barrier cannot escape the second.

From recently doing a similar project I am a supporter of the Kerdi membrane. You set the wall boards and seam them as usual (any board will do, but I like mold-resistant and water-resistant board)... then you "shingle" on the kerdi membrane with thinset.

EDIT: I changed where I said "blueboard" to "purpleboard" as some googling showed I was using the wrong slang....


How can I seal a below-grade window permanently?

Jeff, you didn't say what material the windows were in. poured concrete foundation wall, framed wall?? Is there siding around the windows? A concrete wall could be filled with bricks and mortar. If it is a framed wall, build a framed box, shiething, then some flashing, lots of silicon caulk and match the siding. A picture would be a great help on this one.


No hot water until another faucet is turned on

I would guess that you have a tankless water heater with a minimum flow rate.

If your faucets also have low-flow nozzles (now required by law in California) it's possible that a single sink wouldn't trigger tankless water heater to turn on.


Will closing vents in closet and bathrooms help cool other areas better?

Yes, this will work, but it could be hard on the furnace blower motor if you close too many vents.

I actually do this in my tri-level home - during the summer I close some of the vents on the lower levels so more cool air makes it upstairs, and in the winter I close vents on the upper levels so the lower levels aren't as cold.


It massively depends on the quality of the locks. I buy Home Depot cheapies, and I just replace locksets using the package codes on the lock-sets to get multiples of the same key.  (If you have 3 sets that all say "Key Code 12589”, they will all have the same key).

However I am transitioning to using Schlage Primus, a dual-keyway patented system which precludes unauthorized duplication, and warrants top-shelf hardware.

Go find the kind of locksmith who has a bricks-and-mortar presence with a showroom (and isn't all outbound).  Bring in a lock you want re-keyed, with the key that works in it, and the key you want to work in it.  Come up to their counter.  They will tell you whether it's worth re-keying.

By that I mean there are 3 kinds of locksmiths:

Virtual locksmiths, who only exist on Google, and harvest the identities of people who need locksmiths, so they can "generate leads" (sell you as a sales lead to a locksmith), or engage in criminal behavior toward you, such as casing your home whilst getting a copy of your key.
Truck locksmiths, whose business is a van, and who mainly do emergency work.  They only do outbound work, always charge a hefty service call fee, and have gotcha pricing on everything else.
Showroom locksmiths, who do outbound but also have a retail premises you can visit with a halfway respectable showroom. They will do amazing stuff for you very cheaply.


Is it possible to tell if the current floor is solid or engineered hardwood?

You need to find an area where you can inspect the side of the boards.  If there are floor registers, remove one and inspect.  If you don't have those, look for areas around doors other areas where you might be able to easily remove a trim to inspect.  Worst case, you will need to remove a floor molding to inspect.

Also height will give you a clue.  1/2 to 5/8 is the typical heights of engineered.  5/8 to 7/8 is the typical height for solid.

And some engineered floors can be sanded once or twice depending on the thickness of the finish wood.


Is it within code to branch an exterior outlet off an interior outlet in the middle of a circuit?

The outdoor receptacle will have to be GFCI protected.

  NEC 210.8 At dwellings, ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI)
  protection  shall be provided for all receptacle outlets installed in
  bathrooms, garages, grade-level  portions of unfinished accessory
  buildings, crawl spaces, unfinished basements, kitchen  countertops,
  wet-bar sinks, boathouses and outdoors. Receptacles that are not
  readily  accessible may be exempt from the GFCI requirement

The receptacle will also have to be contained in a weatherproof enclosure, and if something will be plugged in for extended periods (Christmas lights for example) the enclosure should be labeled as "watertight while in use".

  NEC 406.8 15 and 20 amp, 125 and 250 volt receptacles installed
  outdoors in a wet location shall have an enclosure that is
  weatherproof whether or not the attachment  plug is inserted

It should not be a problem branching from an interior circuit, but you'll want to seal the hole where the cable enters the house to prevent moisture from entering.


Why do some table saws have a direct and a reverse ruler on the fence?

You have a "reversible" fence.  One set of measurements are for when the fence is on the right side of the blade, and the other set of measurements are for when the fence is on the left side of the blade.

Remove those 2 red knobs on the right side of the fence and remove the bolts/fence.  Now put the bolts through the other side (where the red knobs are) and put the fence on and the knobs.  Remove the fence assembly from the track, move to the other side of the blade, put fence back onto track, now you can measure/cut from the other side of the blade.


Unfortunately, no. That red wire is the key. Half-switched outlets need an always hot wire and a switched hot wire. Outlet 1 has that (black and red), but outlet 2 does not. You would need to run another cable to Outlet 2.


How to even out the colour on wooden stair treads

On the risers (the vertical part between treads) you can see a faint shadow of the same pattern. It looks like maybe there was once a "stair runner"; a strip of carpet or other material that ran down the middle of the stairway. Sand more, try wood bleach (oxalic acid) as suggested, then use a darker stain to blend. Finish off with varnish.


This isn't typically calculated, but here are a couple of gross estimates of the heat loss.

Method 1:

Air requires in the ballpark of 0.24 BTU per pound to raise it 1 degree F.
1 CF of air weighs about 0.0807 lb, so it takes roughly 0.0194 BTU per cf per degree.
A typical small bathroom fan exhausts about 70 CFM or 4,200 CF per hour.  That would take roughly 81.5 BTU per hour to change it 1 degree.
The exhausted air will be replaced by outside air infiltrating through leakage.  Say you're in an area where the outdoor temperature is 40 degrees colder than indoor temperature in the winter.  That would require roughly 3,260 BTU per hour to make it the same temperature as the indoor air.
If you're heating with electricity, 1 watt = 3.412 BTU/hr, so this example would be roughly equivalent to a load of 1 KW.  Running it continuously would  add about 700 KWH per month to your electric bill in the winter if that temperature difference was an average (roughly $100), not including the electricity to power the fan.

Method 2:

There are online BTU calculators, like this one.  They're used to estimate HVAC requirements, which is slightly different.  In the calculation above, I just looked at the heat (or cooling) required for the replacement air.  HVAC sizing considers maintaining a temperature difference inside insulated walls, HVAC duty cycling, and other factors.  But it's another crude estimation.
For HVAC purposes, turning over room air 8 times per hour is a rough rule of thumb.  So 4,200 CF per hour would represent a 525 CF room.
Using assumptions of "normal" insulation and the same 40 degree temperature difference, the calculator comes up with a 5,840 BTU/Hr HVAC unit.

These are very crude estimates, but you can play with the assumptions to get a ballpark idea of the heating and cooling load created by running the fan continuously.


What should I use to frame walls inside a concrete structure?

There aren't many options for framing cheaper than basic 2x4 lumber.  You could go down to 2x3 which is sometimes cheaper but you'll find that interior doors and insulation are generally sized for 2x4 walls with 1/2" drywall.

You could also consider metal studs.  These are available down to 1.5 inches in thickness (fine if all you want to do is hide the concrete.)  The cost is often slightly higher than wood, but you won't get mold if the space is still a little damp.  They are also usually available in longer lengths (owing to their primary use in commercial spaces) and they are always dimensionally straight.  Installing metal studs goes really fast once you get a hang of it, but again doors can be difficult.


Is it safe for a CFL bulb in a ceiling fixture to touch the glass of the fixture itself?

Yes, it's safe. The CFL touching the glass probably heats it less than the incandescent did an inch or two away.


Can non-metallic cables pass through one large opening at top of electrical panel?

No, the NEC did not eliminate the need to secure. Each cable must be secured at each box or cabinet. Accordingly each connector or cable clamp will be listed with its capacity. One large connector is not listed for many small cables.


The rules for notching and boring joists allow you to

bore holes of diameter up to 1/3 the height of the joist, a minimum of 2" from the top or bottom of the joist
make notches in the outer thirds of the joist, width of notch up to 1/3 height of joist, height of notch up to 1/6 height of joist

The question and comments seem to say there is as little as 4" of overlap between the sistered joists, making it impossible to make bored holes that are 2" away from the top and bottom edges of both joists.

However if a bored hole is less than the 1/6 max height for a notch, it stands to reason  the bored hole can be in that 2" zone;  certainly a bored hole removes less wood than a notch.

Note that the height of a 2x6 is 5-1/2" and a 7/8" bored hole is less than 1/6th the height of a 2x6.

Therefore, as long as you

make holes no larger than 7/8"  (5/8" or 3/4" should be adequate)
keep them close to the walls / beams, in the outer thirds of the joists

you satisfy the rules and run your wires without significantly weakening the joists.  I'd aim for the approximate center of the overlap if possible, that should be the strongest spot to drill through.


Home light switch circuit with 5 switches

You say that, when you release the button, the contact opens again (resistance goes to infinity). But the light stays on, right? That means there must be some device which has a "memory" of the last action: you push a button, the light goes on and stays on, until you press the button again (or another button). I'm sure there is a device in the cabinet (Dutch: "schakelkast") which toggles its output on every pulse it receives, and which in this way controls the lamp.
The wire on the top right of the switch also hints in this direction; it's a signal wire, it's too thin to be a power wire. My hunch is that it carries the pulses to the actual switching device (I don't know what it's called).


Safe to put old white paper-backed fiberglass insulation on metal ductwork?

All fiberglass insulation is white and dyed a colour (so there's no functional distinction among colours).  The melting point of fiberglass is about 1,300 F. But the paper backing is, obviously, not so flame retardant.  Yes, foil-backed insulation is better in every respect but batt insulation (minus the paper backing) will function.  BTW, foil-backed bubble wrap should never be used (and for the cost and claims, is a pseudo-fake product) ...if it's still on the market.

Fiberglass batt insulation works best if not compacted (ie, by being taped tightly with duct tape...which begins to melt at 200 F w/ toxic smoke).  There's also a safer product specifically for taping ductwork and duct insulation that is made of metal foil.


Go buy a new wax seal (well, ideally step aside as the plumber hired by the responsible parent comes and sorts this out, but I guess that's asking for too much.)

Swab out all the water you can, unbolt and remove the toilet; plug the open pipe with something you won't forget to remove before you replace the toilet - typically a rag and a plastic bag, to contain the sewer gas.

Most toilet outlets are sufficiently restrictive that the ball is probably stuck in the toilet, presuming you mean the size of ball that would not represent a choking hazard to a small child. A small ball would flow through a toilet and the rest of the plumbing without causing problems until it got to the sewer treatment plant, in most cases. While you could try to hook it with a drain auger, removal is more likely with the toilet dismounted so that gravity isn't working against you and you can work from both ends, and if for some reason the ball got out (and then stuck), it might be lurking just below.

Or, if it's throughly jammed and you can't get it loose, you buy a new toilet (...or the responsible parent does...)


Wiring up a light fitting made for the US market to a UK power supply

Start with the UL listing (UL is America's CE, our authority which tests and lists fixtures.)   Is the fixture listed for 240V?  We do have 240V in America, but it's not commonly used for luminaires.  277V is, but not for E26/E27 Edison bases.

Our trade agreements require we honor each other's listings, but that does not mean the fixture is listed for 240V.

It's possible. Insulation is the easy part, and most insulation in America is 250V if not 600V.  Higher current adds real cost, but since you are doubling voltage, you are halving current, so that's not a factor here. Besides, most of our stuff comes from China, and much of that is also sold in other 240V countries.

One option is to get a mega-ohmmeter and "meg out" the wires at 400-500V.  It's likely to pass.  That won't make it legal, but it would speak to safety.

Another option is rewire the lamp with UK-listed or 250V-listed sockets and wires, assuming they are physically-compatible, i.e. the apocryphal '3/8"' threaded rod used to tie most lamps together.

Also, tungsten bulbs? Really, check out LEDs - they have gotten quite good of late (if you disregard cheap junk, which is still junk.)


Will walls need re-plastering after removal of painted wallpaper?

You won't need to re-plaster regardless. If anything, a light skim coat will flatten things out after paper removal.
My approach would be to peel and scrape away as much of the paper as is practical using common techniques--putty knives, steam, paper adhesive solvent. Once that's done and the wall has dried, seal it with a good primer to lock down all the paper fibers. Now skim with joint compound and texture if desired. Prime again and paint.
I would not add wallboard. That creates problems with drim, door jambs, etc.


I think it is a safe bet that it is one of the fixtures. You seem to have ruled out everything else. Start with the fixtures that have been burning out lamps.

If you feel confident, turn off the breaker and remove one of the fixtures. It may or may not be obvious if it is the culprit. Cap off the wires coming out of the wall, turn on the breaker and try the switch. Repeat if the problem persists.

Edit: Upon re-reading, when you say "trips the breakers", do you mean the reset button pops out on the GFIs, or the circuit breaker trips??
A GFI is NOT a circuit breaker.


It would be called a "replacement triple tap" and you might try asking an electrical supply shop if they have any.  Seems like they used to be made, but not anymore for compliance reasons.

Otherwise, a "triple tap adapter" is the solution Tyson is suggesting.


It's possible, especially on outdoor circuits, that someone decided to add Alumox paste. It helps prevent corrosion in general. Kind of a belt-and-suspenders approach.

Could someone have replaced only SOME of the old wiring? Sure, anything is possible. But if you are going to go to the expense, why stop 90% of the way there?


Holes drilled in parallam beam: is this a structural problem?

I'm going to be contrary.  Looking at the Weyerhaeuser documentation ( https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/woodproducts/document-library/document_library_detail/tj-9000/ ) PG 26 shows you the allowable hole locations.

For parallam beams, it's in the center third of the depth and center third of the span.  Your holes violate both of those conditions.  They don't even mention drilling from the bottom or top, but that's probably a no-go as well.  From the same page:

I think you need to have your engineer look at this.  The fix might be as simple as the engineer writing a letter accepting it as is.


How to fix gaps between laminate flooring and a door

Are those sliding doors or regular hinged doors? The "friend" actually did a fairly good job of installing the flooring. There usually has to be a gap between the wall and flooring because the flooring will expand and contract if it's a floating floor. The gap is usually covered by molding fastened to the wall, not the floor. You can find different molding and trim at your home stores. They usually come in different colors or you can stain them to match.


Move the run over a few feet, which would it stick it beside the air duct (I think there's about 1/2" between the duct and the adjacent stud. Is it safe for them to be so close?)

There is nothing I see in the NEC that puts restrictions on running electrical line near HVAC as long as it meets other code requirements.  It must be properly anchored to the structure, meaning that when it is run it should be anchored or stapled to the wall studs.  HVAC does not count.  In absolutely NO circumstances should you ever run electric line INSIDE of HVAC!

  Leave the run as is, move Lord Duckington from his throne, cut away the plaster between the two hole, drill holes in the studs and feed said wire through it, fix mess (I think this wall is load bearing, so this might be a bad idea).

A small hole for electrical line in the middle of the stud will not affect the load bearing capacity of the wall by any meaningful amount.  This is safe and probably the best option.

  Re-wire so that this run is getting its power from the circuit on the wall behind it. They don't have much on them, so I think combining them is probably safe. In this case, would it be safe to have a few inches of romex going from one box to the next and just connect everything with wire nuts?

This is another option and would probably involve less plaster patching when you are done.  The only thing you should make sure of is if the lead line is coming to the switch box.  If the power is coming to the receptacle or luminaire rather than the switch then this will not work.  Make sure to wire everything properly in parallel if you do this.

  Pull off the baseboards, drill a new hole in the floor, and move the box a 6 inches to the left (not sure if the lath is behind the baseboards or not).

If you feel that there is enough room there not taken up by the HVAC system then sure, you could rerun it this way from the basement.  In fact, with your tall baseboard you can hide the plaster damage and fishtape it up to the new outlet location.  Again, please make sure that there isn't a vent running up that wall stud going to upstairs, which seems likely from your photo.

  Move

Lord Duckington I am sure doesn't approve.


how to change furnace filter (bottom return) for Lennox G43UF

The air filter should slide in the slot between the return air duct, and the furnace.

The filter should have some markings on it, to indicate which way the air should flow through it. Make sure when you install it, you install it in the proper direction.
Supporting Documentation
The installation instructions shows the location of an optional external side air filter kit, which is the slot in the photos you've provided. It also shows where, and what size the return air opening should be (14" x 23").

When you slide the filter into the slot, it should completely cover the return air opening. This is why the documentation calls for a 16" x 25" filter.

This model also allows for a bottom return, which you do not have. If it was installed to use the bottom return, the return ducting would attach to the bottom of the furnace (basically the furnace would sit on top of the duct). You'd then install the air filter on the bottom of the furnace.


Should I pull triplex 4/0 though conduit before laying it in the trench?

Assemble and bury the conduit. THEN pull wire.
You have to fully assemble the conduit, have it inspected if your inspector requires that, backfill it and - important - tamp it, especially the corners.  All BEFORE you start pulling any wires into it.
First-time conduit novices always think it will be "easier" to lay all the wire out and thread the conduit sticks over the wire.  I do a ton of conduit, and that doesn't sound "easier" at all, it sounds like the most difficult possible way to do it!  It really works much better to pull!  Of course, if that skill isn't in your repertoire yet, I can understand that -- I myself am terrified of drywall work.
What tends to coexist with the "assemble the conduit around the wires" way of thinking, is also a dastardly plan to build conduit in a way it would be impossible to pull.  For instance, using a plumbing elbow instead of a proper sweep, facing the LB against the wall so the access door can't be opened later, etc.   That's not allowed, and realistically, you'll hate yourself later if you do it.
Now, if you are using cable that is certified to be used alone (in walls or underground), then it is allowed to use conduit selectively, solely as a damage shield to protect certain segments of the cable run.  An example is when you do direct burial, and you are required to use a stick and a sweep of conduit simply to protect the wires on the "Stub-up".  In that case yeah, you thread conduit over cable, but it's only a stick or two.  If you have used conduit like that before, then I can understand that thinking.   And if you want to do that, then simply trench to 26" instead of 21" and just do direct burial.  Easy peasy. (however you will never be able to change or upgrade the wire, and that may be a huge problem because...)
Generally, when running conduit the entire route, you want to run THWN or XHHW individual wires.  Cables are much stiffer (the same way a ream of copier paper is stiff until you take the wrapper off, then, it's a noodle).  This also lets you select exactly the sizes you want, as selection is better in individual wires.
Why are you running triplex anyway?
In almost all cases, triplex is the wrong stuff. Triplex is only allowed between the weatherhead, through the meter, and to the very first breaker or disconnect.  Beyond that, everything must be quadplex - separate neutral and ground.
Now some say "But the meter is out at a pole, and this is the run between meter and house".  Sure, except didn't the power company/inspector require you to have a main disconnect out at the pole?  I bet they did.  Then it needs to be 4-wire.


What is the difference between building sand and plaster sand

It's all about particle size, which is classified using the Wentworth scale or The Krumbein phi (φ) scale.
Sharp Sand
Sharp Sand, also known as Concrete Sand is a coarse sand with larger particles. This type of sand is typically used in concrete.

φ scale - 1 to 0
Size range - 1/2 to 1 mm (0.020–0.039 in)
Builder's Sand
Builder's Sand, also known as Plasterer's, Mason, or Bricklayer's Sand is a finer grade sand with smaller particles. It's often mixed with water and cement to make mortar for laying bricks/blocks.

φ scale - 3 to 2
Size range - 125–250 µm (0.0049–0.010 in)
Jointing Sand
Jointing Sand, also known as Beach Sand is very fine sand with very small particles. This type of sand is used for grouting joints in paving or patio slabs.

φ scale - 4 to 3
Size range - 62.5–125 µm (0.0025–0.0049 in)


Have I correctly identified this part on my air compressor?

That is indeed a check valve and it prevents pressure in the tank from leaking out through the compressor when it's not running.  This is nothing specific to the model of compressor you have and you can likely find a suitable replacement for the whole thing at a dealer that sells parts for compressors.  The key thing will be get one that has the correct threads to mate up with your tank and the input hose.
Remove this one and take it with you when shopping for a replacement.


Does 5V DC power supply require Ground wire?

Ground connection is a safety feature, and should be connected.

If something breaks internally in the power supply or wiring which causes the case to be energized, the ground connection means it'll blow the breaker/fuse and power will be shut off.

Without it, the case can become energized with no indication anything is wrong until someone touches it (at which point they can be electrocuted).


Do new wire runs in an existing ceiling need to be stapled down?

If you are not removing more drywall than needed for the new recessed lights, then no per 334.30(B)(1) (assuming you are using NM cable). There are similar clauses for other flexible cable assemblies (e.g. AC/MC).
However, if you are removing drywall as part of the remodel and have access to the studs, then you do need to secure and support according the remainder of 334.30 (or similar clauses for other cable types).

From NFPA-70:2014 (a.k.a. 2014 NEC):
334.30 Securing and Supporting Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar ﬁttings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 1⁄2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every outlet box. junction box, cabinet, or ﬁtting. Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge. Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway.
(A) Horizontal Runs Through Holes and Notches. In other than vertical runs, cables installed in accordance with 300.4 shall be considered to be supported and secured where such support does not exceed 1.4-m (4 1⁄2-ft) intervals and the nonmetallic-sheathed cable is securely fastened in place by an approved means within 300 mm (12 in.) of each box, cabinet, conduit body, or other nonmetallicsheathed cable termination.
FPN: See 314.17(C) for support where nonmetallic boxes are used
334.30(B) Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable:
(1) Is ﬁshed between access points through concealed spaces in ﬁnished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable.
(2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4 1 ⁄2 ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece > of electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are > within an accessible ceiling


It'll work well as long as your mini split unit isn't conditioning the area near the thermostat for the forced hot air unit. If they're too close together, the mini split will make the forced air thermostat think it's always the perfect temperature, so it will never call for heat, and the rest of your rooms will never be comfortable.

The added expense of adding a mini split to multiple units is probably going to be a lot more than having someone fix the problem of the forced air unit constantly turning off and on. Running the circulation fan for 35%-100% of the time in the heating season might be a good and much more inexpensive solution without looking into it further.


Can I repurpose existing cat5 telephone line for Ethernet networking?

I think you may be suspecting that the existing telephone wiring is CAT5 cable when in fact it may not be CAT5 at all. Four pair telephone wire can look a lot like CAT5 cable when in fact it is constructed in a different manner. The wire gauge may be different and the characteristic impedance of the cable may be different. Also note that cable specified for data comm such as Ethernet have special twist specifications for each pair in the cable that are different from one another.

Very short run Ethernet over improper cable can be made to work but when you start talking about trying to send the signals over a respectable distance then factors such as wire gauge, characteristic impedance and elimination of impedance discontinuity on the wire run can play a huge role in the success of the connection. I can say with pretty good assurance that the use of the twisted splices that you described making are certain to represent a nasty impedance discontinuity in the cable run. These can cause signal reflections in the cable can result in significant loss of signal strength and quality at the receiving end of the cable. Remember that 100 MBit Ethernet is an RF signal and the attributes that I mention for the transmission line need to be good quality and to design specifications for it to work properly.


I have seen more than a few homes that the systems don’t work properly with the doors closed.
With as many registers in that “suite” there should be a return I would consider blocking the duct at the trunk and moving it to the return. This will change the flow to the room ant you may find adjusting dampers or registers is needed.
Having a dedicated return sounds like it was designed that way and the installers blew it.


What to do about water in ceiling from leak?

Chances are you can claim from upstairs, if they have insurance you have nothing to loose from getting a professional plasterer to fix it. if they don't and you want to do them a favour then the D.I.Y. approach will save them money. Seeing as you're asking here instead of in "law"
Make a hole, or holes to let the water out.
Wait until it's dry. (possibly weeks)
Patch any weak parts and the holes
Sand flat, seal with a shellac based primer, and repaint.


Is a single ductless HVAC system more efficient than two smaller ductless systems?

I can't say anything about the efficiency difference between single unit or minisplit systems for a single room, but for 809 sq ft, 24000 btu (2 tons of refrigeration) seems like a high estimate based on the information here:

http://www.energystar.gov/?c=roomac.pr_properly_sized

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/calculating-cooling-loads

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ton_of_refrigeration

Assuming that your concrete block walls are uninsulated and allow air to move through them (true unless there's insulation and an air barrier you didn't mention), the high estimate is probably reasonable. You will save money and energy in the long run, however, if you insulate and seal the walls and ceiling with advice from an energy efficiency/home performance professional, then install an appropriately-sized system.


Using two 30amp circuits to supply one range

Bottom line is NO, you definitely cannot do what you propose. You CANNOT parallel a circuit like this of this size. It is expressly forbidden in the NEC, and could very well be a safety hazard.

If the appliance takes two separate circuits like your old one that is a different story. Do you know what size and type of wire is feeding the old 30A circuits?

Also, all "new ranges" definitely do not use a 40A circuit. Many can, but many also have too great a draw for a 40A circuit.

The NEC allows any household cooking appliance 12kW or under to be served by a 40A circuit, but I see more and more basic units over 12kW.


Best method to use carpet samples squares to create a Rug?

One method, like in this YouTube video, would be to use  heat bond carpet seaming tape.  Pro carpet installers use it with a special iron to seam carpet together, but you can use a clothes iron since you will be working on the back side. This would give a strong bond but you will still need a rug pad to keep it from sliding around. (The heat seal tape has a paper backing that is not removable and will be slippery on smooth flooring)
You could use double sided carpet tape in conjunction with a cheap non-slip rug pad. (or not so cheap alternative Pad)
Lay out your samples in the pattern you want, then flip each over so the back side it up. Use the tape to tape all of the seams and put a border of tape all around the perimeter. Place the tape just in from the outside of the outer borders, about   a 1/4 inch in. Put two tape strips across, perpendicular, to each seam for added strength in holding them together.
When dispensing and cutting your tape, leave the protective backing on and put the sticky side down, then press all of the tape down firmly. (Use a rolling pin or a can of tomatoes as a roller to help press it down.)
Unfold the rug pad and then roll it up like a big roll of carpet and place it on one end of the taped together samples so that it will roll out and over the samples as you unroll it. (You can trim it down to just bigger then your rug you are making, Dont worry about cutting it exactly to fit, you can do that after it is taped in place.) Position it and roll it out over the rug to make sure it cover the whole rug with little hanging over all four sides then roll it back being careful not to move it side to side.
Now peel of the protective backing on ALL of the tape and start to unroll the pad onto the Taped rug. Use your roller to  press all of the seams and edges.
Now you can trim the pad just inside the outer border, That is why we left that 1/4 inch gap. You can use small scissors or carefully cut with a utility knife so the pad is not visible.


Dishwasher still running cold despite heating element and thermostat replacement

You need to continue troubleshooting the problem.

If the dishwasher still has power, and assuming that the parts you used for the replacements are actually functional and not defective, and assuming that they were installed correctly, then the issue has been narrowed down to be between the replaced parts and the incoming power.


Definitely check into this. I've found many times that the timer for the pump is at fault. It's supposed to run about 8 hours a day and I've found them running around the clock. The timer motor can also run sporadically, sometimes turning off as it should, other times not doing so.  If the timer is set for multiple on/off sessions, one of the off tabs could be missing. A clogged or dirty filter can also affect operation but not doubling it.


What is this burnt cement floor treatment called?

Correct, dry shake. Or more specifically dry shake color hardener. As you say, it is essentially cement and colorant. You might just search video sites for application instructions, such as http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dry+shake+color+hardener+application. Incidentally, techniques that achieve similar effects to cured concrete are concrete dyes and concrete acid stains.


What type of knot would allow the length of the standing part of the rope to be adjusted?


How many lighting circuits are needed in the LED era...? (US - NEC)

As far as the NEC is concerned, there is no limit to the number of outlets (lighting outlets in this case) that are allowed on a single circuit assuming that the attached fixtures don't exceed the rated capacity of the circuit.

However, @Edwin raises exactly the correct point in the comment - what matters is what the fixtures are rated for, not what they are currently being used for. The general rule of thumb that electrical inspectors tend to use is around 8 boxes for a 15A circuit and 10-12 for a 20A circuit.  Keep in mind that they are counting boxes, not what gets put into them.  The idea is that you can put in a receptical rated at 5W, decide you don't like it, and throw something with a 150W load in the same receptical.  The only thing that makes something a "light" in the eye of the inspector is that it is on the ceiling and has a switch running to it.

Outside of the load consideration you actually bring up a good point in the question, which is safety.  While the NEC doesn't specify a minimum number of lighted branches (other than the panel lighting requirement), your local authority very well could.  I know my jurisdiction only allows 2 rooms to share the same branch for lighting purposes, precisely for the reason you mention - you pop a breaker, you're in the dark.


How to prevent fridge freezer drain from freezing over?

There should be a rubber drain line that goes from the bottom of the condensate tray in the back of the freezer (probably behind an access panel), out the bottom of the refig, to the drain pan that's under the refrig.  That drain line can get clogged with dust/dirt or spider webs.  When this happens, the water can't flow out of the freezer, backs up into the freezer, and freezes.
You need to get to that rubber drain tube and clear it out.  But first you have to get rid of the ice that's blocking it.
There should be information on line as to how to do this for your particular model refrigerator.  On some you can access this from the freezer comparment.  But on others you need to in through the back of the refrig to get to the drain line.
Added Picture
Here is picture from https://www.applianceblog.com, that shows the condensate pan on a typical Samsung freezer, showing the ice buildup that results from a clogged drain tube.  The drain tube comes out in the center (usually) of the pan that's covered in ice in that picture.


To close this out, I had a friendly, professional, licensed plumber come out and make the change and it set me back all of $110 + a $20 tip. In retrospect, there was no reason to be concerned about cost and every reason to pay a professional. Sharing this in case it's helpful for someone else facing a similar situation.
Editing to add details: The plumber used all existing lines. He added a few inches of slack by connecting to one of the manifold fittings that was just a tad closer. I'm not certain, but he may have also swapped out the "short" line with an existing line that was just a tad longer.


What is a good temporary seal for 1-2 inch gap between window pane and door frame?

I would suggest a plastic window insulation kit available for around $10 or so at your local big-box home improvement store. Probably also available at your local 800 pound gorilla general store.
It will have double sided tape to adhere to the door around the opening, then the plastic is stuck to the other side of the tape. A hair dryer is used to shrink the plastic until it's taught so you can see through it and that it doesn't flap in the breeze.
The tape probably won't stick very well to that bare, rough wood. At a minimum, you'll also want some sandpaper and some sort of a block to smooth down the wood around the pane so that there's a smooth surface for the tape to stick to. When the door is refurbished, that will need to be sanded anyway, so this is just a head start.
Depending on what's outside, you may consider adding a second layer to the outside of the door, as well. However, the plastic is rather thin and doesn't take well to physical abuse. People, packages, tree limbs, possibly even leaves blowing by, and the wind itself may be enough to tear the plastic or rip it off the wood. But, if you've got plastic left over from doing the inside, it won't hurt to put a layer outside.


Does the rubber washer on an outdoor conduit whip go inside the box or outside?

The first:

Whip -> Washer -> Hole in Box -> Nut (rubber washer outside box)

not

Whip -> Hole in Box -> Washer -> Nut (rubber washer inside box)

You want the plastic washer on the outside for a watertight seal, and the nut on the box for mechanical strength and with a metal box, to bond the fitting to the box electrically.


How many outlets can 1/2" copper pipe support?

According to Uniform Plumbing Code Table 6-5 (610.3), the Water Supply Fixture Units (wsfu) per fixture in a private residence are as follows:

Dishwasher = 1.5
Kitchen sink = 1.5
Washup sink = 0

So you're supplying 3 wsfu.

According to Table 6-6 (610.4), at 30-45 psi you can supply 3 wsfu with ½" pipe with a developed length of up to 100'.  46-60 psi you can have a developed length of up to 200', and greater that 60 psi can go up to 300'.

At 40' or less with 30 psi, ½" pipe can supply 6 wsfu.  So with a short run, you should have no problem using ½" pipe.


Removing the vibration from a loud motor

It looks like the motor bracket isn't fastened down properly, which allows it to move. Or maybe it's the point where the motor attaches to the bracket. Turn off the fan, take off the grate, and examine it - maybe you just need to tighten some bolts (if you tighten them, and they work loose again, try putting Lock-Tite on the threads.)

If that doesn't fix it, just leave the piece of wood in place. But if you leave it in there long-term, you'll want to fasten it somehow so it doesn't slide down.


Is it expected for an empty house to use 14 kWh per day?

That does seem high for an unoccupied building, but not imposssible.  It works out to about 5 amps drawn 24 hours a day.

These are plenty of things that might be adding up.  The biggest ones would be:

Electric hot water. Even if you dont use it, it keeps getting reheated
AC or electric heat, if they were left on or there is a faulty thermostat turning them on
Lights left on.
Fridge running non stop - an empty fridge with a small leak in the door seal might do that.
Small appliances like keurig coffee makers that preheat the water all day

Easiest thing to do is watch the hydro meter.  It is easier if you still have an old non-smart meter with a spinning disk, but you can just write down the numbers.  Unplug the fridge and turn everything else off, check what the electric meter says and check again in half an hour.

If it has moved something is still using power.  If you can't figure out what, narrow it down by turning circuit breakers off one by one or a group at a time until it stops.


What's causing the sewage smell in my laundry room?

Well, I'm not sure which of the following actions fixed it, but the smell seems to be dissipating after letting the room sit overnight afterwards:

I cut the vent pipe off in the attic right above where it came out of the ceiling. Then I drained any stagnant water due to the "U-bend" in it.
I snaked down from the roof to the cut location, with no obstructions found.
(Due to more luck than planning, the run was within a few inches of the 25' length of my auger!)
I snaked from the vent cut location in the attic down as far as my auger would reach, and don't think there was anything there, since it came back clean again.
I rerouted the vent pipe in the attic so that any horizontal runs had at least a 1/4" per foot slope upwards so any sewer gasses wouldn't be trapped.
I snaked from the laundry room drain pipe as far as I could reach, once again no obstructions detected.
I borescoped the drain pipe and saw that the trap was full of water as it should be. I added a gallon or so of water anyway, then maybe a cup of vinegar to help with any smell that might be in the pipe itself.

After all that, the smell dissipated overnight. Unfortunately, I didn't find any obstructions, and discovered the trap was full of water. The only thing I really "fixed" was the vent pipe slope, but that's been in that configuration for 7+ years without any trouble, so I still don't know what actually worked!


Many times I have found the center conductor in the light socket has flattened out, lifting that tab away from the base with the power off will usually solve the problem. I have found some “electronic” lamps (not incandescent) do not have threads that are as long or a shoulder stops the lamp from being screwed in far enough. Lifting the tab will fix this also in many cases. Give lifting the tab a try.


Using ent conduit “smurf tube” for 4 4awg wires

ENT is A-OK for residential mains wiring

Actual UL listed ENT ("smurf tube") is a perfectly fine mains wiring method in 99% of the work we see around here, allowed basically everywhere NM can be used.  This is spelled out in NEC 362.10, with point 1 applying to us:

  (1) In any building not exceeding three floors above grade as
  follows:

  a. For exposed work, where not prohibited by 362.12

  b. Concealed within walls, floors, and ceilings

Note that ENT uses PVC fittings and conduit bodies, by and large, although special "snap lock" fittings can be used for ENT if cementing is undesirable for some reason.  This also makes it easy to transition to PVC for the outdoor section of the run, as well.

Fill wise: you're good to go, but not by much

Your 4 4AWG THWN wires take up 212.64mm² of fill, while your 1" ENT has 215mm² of usable space, making your proposed pull quite a tight fit.  I would downsize the ground wire to 8AWG if I were in your shoes; that's the minimum size required by the NEC for all circuits up to 100A, and will save you 29.55mm² of fill.

Garage panel selection and grounding

Since this is a feeder to a detached building, we know we will need to put a subpanel in at the garage.  Furthermore, this subpanel will need to be a main breaker type, as that's the cheapest way to provide a local shutoff means at the garage, and have separate ground bars fitted so that neutral and ground are separated properly at the subpanel.  Finally, we'll want it to be of ample size so that you don't need to go back and replace it later because it filled up: a 24- or 30-space, 100A or 125A panel will do the trick here, and isn't much costlier than a smaller panel would be.  Don't forget to ensure the bonding screw or strap is pulled when the panel is installed!

Since this is a detached building, we also need to make sure that the garage has a proper grounding electrode system fitted.  At its simplest, we can use two 8' deep ground rods, driven 8' apart, and connected to each other and to the garage subpanel's ground bar with 8AWG copper wire to handle that in this case.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

When fitting the new wires and panel, you will need to use an inch-pound torque screwdriver or torque wrench to torque all breaker and panel lugs to the torques printed on the labeling.  This is required by 110.14(D) in the 2017 NEC, and also a good idea even if your AHJ doesn't require it, lest your electrical system lose you the race!


Why do the outlets in my solar-powered cottage read "open ground"?

You have faithfully built out your grounding system and kept it separate from the neutral system, which is better than a lot of people do.  It sounds like you've done this work to Code.  But what you never did is fit the neutral-ground bond in your main panel.

A house has exactly one neutral-ground bond

And the problem is, your generator already has one of them.

Neutral is not ground. Neutral carries the ordinary return current that the circuit needs.  Ground carries only fault current during problems.

However, neutral is tied to ground in exactly one location.  That's a very big deal.  The point of the N-G bond is to assure that your electrical system isn't floating at thousands of volts compared to actual earth.  Because the insulation in appliances isn't rated for thousands of volts.

But if you have two of them, that is very bad.  The ordinary current flowing on neutral will then "split" at one of the bonds, and some of it will travel over the ground wires to the other bond.  That means safety ground isn't safety ground anymore, it's a working neutral wire.  Certain failures can then cause grounds to be energized at mains voltage - which is the last thing you want.

And the neutral-ground bond (1) is always at a grounding rod point.  You don't tie ground to earth at junction 1 then have a neutral-ground bond at junction 2.

Right now, your neutral-ground bond only happens through the generator.  That means it's not at the same place as the grounding electrode.  That's bad.

Put the neutral-ground bond where it belongs - in the main panel  where the grounding electrode comes in - but then you'll have two of them when you connect the generator, and that won't do.

The cheap, but at least Code, answer is to remove the neutral-ground bonding in the generator, and then put it back when you unhook the generator to use it as a portable generator (where it needs to ground its outlets).
The cheap, non-Code answer is to remove the ground wire from the NEMA 14 inlet where you plug in your generator.


How does the float on the toilet chain affect the amount of tank water used per flush?

Pushing the float down the chain makes the distance between the float and the flapper less, therefore the same is true of the distance between the water level and the flapper.  That means more water is released before the flapper is lowered into its sealing position.


Changing blower motors with different wiring schemes

On the wiring diagram the purple wire from the capacitor is shown completing a circuit with the black wire.

No, that's not what the diagram says.  If they required you to jumper that, they would give instructions to that effect and the diagram would be clearer.

The graphic is indicating which two wires are the LINE (supply) wires.  They are saying "This one is... and that one is". That's why the lines are dotted.


Can a vent hood designed for 12" deep cabinets be installed under IKEA's 15"-deep cabinets?

Find a decent hvac fabricator and they can bend you a 24" x 3" sheet of stainless steel.

The simplest way to make that work would be to put framing lumber against the back wall (2-2x4 upright for 3" width) and slap the steel against it. That has the advantage of being solid and offering an extra spot to attach the hood.

Depending on your cabinetry, you might be able to vent through the back, which will give you more space in the overhead cabinet. (This might lead you to a 3-1/2" spacer to give a bit of room for the typical 10x3-1/4 duct.)


How can I calculate if switching power strip on and off is safe

None of the items you have listed would have much of an increase in starting currents. That usually applies to motor loads. You're fine switching your power strip on and off.
Did you consider the fact that maybe the power supply failed, shorted out, and that's why the power strip went poof when it tripped?


You can coat it with a satin clear finish. or even a matte finish. Both are available at most paint stores and big box stores.


Your local fire department should take them off your hands and dispose of them properly (in an environmentally safe manner) and safely.

I say the above, as I recently wanted to dispose of some old engine coolant in a responsible manner and didn't know where I could take it for disposal, so I went to our local fire station to ask them, they pointed me in the right direction and additionally informed me for future reference they take and dispose of petrol (gas).


Water pressure inside house drops to zero when sprinklers are on

I don't think you have a leak, what I believe is your pressure regulator is set at a high enough pressure that when the zone turns on and has a high surge until the pressure builds this is causing the no flow in the house for a few seconds. Once the flow stabilizes the pressure builds back up and you have pressure in the house again. To keep this from happening install a regulator on your sprinkler system and set it to a slightly lower pressure than what you want in the house. This will make set sprinkler lines take slightly longer to fill and if 2 psi lower will slightly reduce the water spray distance but your pressure would not drop as it is doing now.


Would a single section of 3 LED's from a LED strip still need the required 12V?

Yes, you can cut an LED strip anywhere it says "cut here".

That section will happily run on 12V, as long as it's a 12V strip.


This is going to be slow, but see if you can affix a strong neodymium magnet to the end of your fish tape, and detect it with a well balanced compass.

Even better, use magnetic viewing paper, and have someone reciprocate the fish tape while you watch through the paper for a vibrating field.

I'd personally try a toner tracer first, but a magnetic field will be harder to block than a toner.

Perhaps you could use coaxial cable as your push wire.  Attach the toner to the core on one end, strip back an inch of jacket on the other so most of the toner'e RF energy makes it down the cable to a point emanator on the far end.  Then carefully follow that point as you push the coax down the conduit.


trying to identify these bracket for removal for single post, kitchen faucet

Looks like it was a Costco faucet, and once I realized that the hex screw was covered up by mineral deposits, I cleaned it off and I was able to use the link below to get it off easily.

Both images from TerryLove.com


Stacking two 6x6 posts for two story deck

You’re right, vertical splices in posts need special attention, especially 1) when the posts are 20-22’ long, 2) when they support decks or spaces where people can gather, 3) where cars can impose “extra” load on old existing footings, and 4) lateral displacement depending on seismic activity or seasonal ground movement, 5) how square the two cuts are made at the splice.

1) When posts are 20-22’ long they tend to buckle when over loaded. This is called the “slenderness ratio” and depends on the species and grade of wood. (AND because it’s outdoors I suspect it’s pressure treated.) A typical 20’ 6x6 of spruce-Pine-fir (SPF) can support about 8,000 lbs. depending on its grade. (I’m assuming a middle grade of No. 1 and better, but not a “Select” or a “Dense Select”.) Likewise, a 22’ 6x6 of the same species and grade will support about 7,000 lbs. I’m also assuming the posts are braced in BOTH directions at the 20’ or 22’ splice. If not, it’s a hinge a a bigger problem develops because it becomes a 30’ post...or whatever the existing post adds onto its length.

2) When a post supports decks and other “living” spaces we take extra precautions. Depending on the size of your deck, you could easily overload the post at your next birthday party when the gang starts singing Happy Birthday and jumping up and down. We use 100 lbs. per square foot to calculate the load, but the Code allows 40 PSF. The Code allows an increase in stress (strength) for impact loads, which your party would qualify for, but there’s a reduction for pressure treated posts too.

3) We also worry about adding additional loads to existing footings that have “always been just fine”. You now have a carport and the weight of that car on the soil can make the existing footing settle or tip (lean).

4) If you live in a seismically active area there are special considerations that must be met. I doubt you do, because you say there are independent footings. If you lived in S. California or another active area you wouldn’t have independent footings. (If I’m wrong, I’d get that looked at immediately.) Remember, the post needs to be braced in both directions.

5) Finally, to answer your original question: “can posts be stacked and how should they be connected “. Yes, they can be connected and they should have an adequate connection. The Code does not stipulate how they’re connected, but says it needs to be adequate. If the two ends are not cut perfectly “square” and there is jumping on the post, it could “slide” past the other post, especially if it’s a little wet. (When I cut a 6x6 with my skillsaw I have to turn it a couple of times to cut all the way through. It’s never a perfect cut. Did you have skilled workmen you trust?)

That “sliding” load can be calculated if we know the load on the post. Short of that I would not trust wood 2x6 side blocks nailed into the 6x6’s for a connection. (Someone said blocks on two sides would be ok. I think not because the nailing could be in withdrawal. That’s bad. At a minimum I’d use blocks on 4 sides.)

Without knowing your exact circumstances, I’d prefer a steel connection with braces in both directions at the splice points. You could use something like Simpson ECCLQ. It’s not perfect, but it allows braces in both directions.

https://www.mudsupply.com/Simpson-ECCLRQ666SDS-p/909200801.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rIXNWlhsWWIz4wEdUUQ_3SGkclQJnV6f7cRuEyGWCSqWmELi9uIOnRoCRVMQAvD_BwE

Remember, you just created a HINGE. You need to brace it so it doesn’t move.


How can I calculate the load capacity of a platform?

Here would be my basic approach (Mechanical Engineer here, Statics TA for 4 semesters):

For starters, you could figure out the weight of the mattress and box spring plus the weight of two people lying on it (W). Add in a safety factor (at a minimum 2, ideally a bit more) - remember, an uneven or dynamic loading will apply significantly higher stresses to your frame.
If you assume the weight will be evenly distributed it makes things a whole lot easier.
Figure out which supports your box spring will be resting on. Does it come in contact with the outer skirt on the sides? If not, divide up the weight of the box spring/mattress/people by the number of cross supports (n) the entire thing rests on, less 1 (W/(n-1)). For the end cross supports, use half of this loading.
Use the distributed load (or half of it) that you just calculated over the span of each cross support in conjunction with a fixed-fixed cantilever beam equation explained in Figure 23 here.
Calculate maximum beam stress at the center with σ=M*c/I (where M=moment,c=distance from neutral axis, and I=area moment of inertia) and compare to your material (pine? oak? maple?) maximum compressive and tensile strengths.
Apply the reaction forces for the cross piece ends to the sides of the supports running the length of the bed as point loadings. (If you want to get fancy, you can include the moment as well and add a torsional stress to the beam, but I don't think I can explain how to do that very well over the internet.) Use superposition (multiple P forces) and Figure 25 for this one. Repeat calculating maximum stress.

If you end up with not enough of a safety factor for your chosen design, increase the width (vertically) of the side beams. For the center, you could just add another support and recalculate. I don't think fasteners will be the limiting factor here, and calculating/estimating the stress concentration factors in an anisotropic material such as wood is a bear.

Edit: So that's how an engineer would approach this. However, @rachet freak has a very good point that you could save a lot of time by using a proven design. In that case, take a look at Ana White's website. It's got dozens of plans that people have already built with basically just a circular saw and a drill.


Providing general wind break in the area will help. Regarding flow, you don't necessarily have to block where flow enters; you can also block the escape.

I don't think it would hurt to plant some evergreen shrubs along the side of the wall and perhaps some trees around other areas of the (north) yard. A small fence around this area immediately in front of the vent/intake would certainly work better than nothing.

Could you use wind resistant wall vent?

Since the air is blowing down from above, the wall vent pictured above should work to shelter the immediate venting area. In the moderate range a fence should work pretty well. And general wind breaks in the yard will be effective on the larger scale.


How to handle vanity replacement when finish materials do not continue behind existing unit?

I ended up replacing the vanity with a slightly larger one and cutting the tile a bit with an angle grinder to make enough room.


Lights are typically put on a separate circuit from the receptacles, especially in places where GFCIs are required (kitchens, baths, and garages). This gives the benefit that when a breaker trips, you are not left in the dark. In many cases, #14 wire is used for lighting circuits whereas #12 wire is used for receptacle circuits. Keeping them on separate circuits allows you to use different size wires for each.

In addition, circuits are generally laid out by room, but it's not always the case that each circuit is one room. Adjacent rooms, or similar rooms, may be combined on one circuit, depending on the sizes of the rooms and how many receptacles each will contain. If your living room and dining room are adjacent, for instance, receptacles from both rooms may be on the same circuit, and lights from both rooms may be on the same circuit. Two adjacent bedrooms may share the same (AFCI-protected) circuit (this cuts down on the number of AFCI breakers needed, saving some expense). A great room that's very large may have it's own circuit for receptacles, but share a circuit for lights.

You may want to run additional dedicated circuits for unique equipment you plan to run, like computers in a home office (especially high-end machines), woodworking equipment, etc. There is nothing wrong with having a single receptacle be on a separate circuit in a room, or have half the room be on one circuit and half on another. Since you're doing the work now, when you've already lived there, you know better how you use the space, so set it up so it works best for you (while maintaining code).

Keep in mind any special-use circuits (oven, dryer, water heater, etc) will be their own circuit by definition, as these are usually 240V. Also keep in mind that the kitchen requires 2 separate small-appliance circuits, and the portion of those circuits in the kitchen need to be GFCI protected.

When you do get everything laid out and run, make sure to clearly label the panel. Perhaps even a separate diagram or spreadsheet showing which breaker every single receptacle, light, and switch is connected to. I might even go so far as to diagram where each wire is run through walls and ceilings. Digital files are cheap, and you never know when that info might come in handy. Along the same lines, consider installing conduit and/or low-voltage cable (networking / TV) at the same time; the best time to run new cable is when the walls are already open.


Your panel already has the knockout for a lock.  It is immediately above the latch.
See graphic.

Read the label, it calls out the Siemens part number for a lock kit.
Or you can bring the deadfront to your locksmith and I'm sure they can figure something out.
Remember, it is illegal to deny a tenant access to their circuit breakers.  A locksmith may be able to build a lock that operates on a tenant's key.


Can I be certain that there is a stud here?

The window that you depict is set into a rough opening that was then banded on with drywall material. In order for that corner to be finished nice and straight the raw edges of the drywall is usually covered with corner bead strip made of metal or plastic. Then drywall mud fills in the corner from both sides and is sanded to a nice corner finish.
In your case you were probably drilling through one flange of a metal corner beading. Typical flange width from the wall corner may be from 1" to 1.5" (25mm to 40mm). Metal ones are made of thin soft steel material. Here is what a common metal corner beading looks like:

Picture Source


Are wall anchors necessary for hanging a small speaker?

I agree with @user263983. Use plastic drywall anchors that go with the size of flathead screw that fits properly into receivers on the backs of the speakers. The heads of the screws must be small enough to fit inside the bottoms of the slots and large enough to be retained in the smaller tops of the slots.
Drill square to the wall so the screws are perpendicular to the wall. Drive the screws in so that the bracket just barely slip fits between the underside of the screw head and the plastic anchor or the wall.
If you don't have a drill or don't want to drill, there are anchors with a sharp end that you force into the drywall and then twist with a screwdriver to pull into the wall. Get the right size, and use two for each speaker. Self drilling drywall anchors


So Help Please With Driveway Ditch and French Drain

You're going to need an outlet for that water regardless of whether you have a ditch or a french drain (and in your case, I think you are describing not so much a french drain as a "diversion trench").

Digging a very deep ditch, as you have done, is not nearly as effective as digging a very shallow ditch that actually has an outlet of some kind.  Eventually the ditch fills up, as you have seen, and if it is four feet deep, you need to outlet somewhere that is even deeper than four feet.