What kind of window is this? And how to open it?

Yep, looks like you hit it with Preston type, it's a screw drive that pulls the window in like a hopper window. Behind the cross-shaped part with the screw (threaded section) should be a part that spins on the threads and walks the upper assembly out, pulling the window along the screw.

I'd get up there and remove the hardware and clean it up, since it's caked with paint and not gonna move easily, plus you'll find you need a long, looped cord/chain/bead chain to run the spinning part. Hard to describe, but start by pulling the assembly off, clean, and make sure the window is not painted shut (sealed with paint).

Personally, I'd make sure the window opens easily with the mechanism off before moving forward. That style opening is designed to keep the window in place if there is wind, and be easy to open from floor level. Other types of closures used on high windows were a lever with a loop in it that you would use a pole with a hook on to open the latch and pull the window in.

Here's another style shown: Transom Hardware, oldhouseonline.com


Can a cord and plug attached to a wallbox be used as a transfer means for fixed wiring downstream of the box?

In my area the inspectors require 156% wire size (125% x 125%) if a flexible cord is used as a non permanent connection. Something like a portable generator.
The other requirement is it needs to be 30amp or less. With that said there is usually a transfer switch to the specific circuits being powered.
Larger supplies are required to be in 6’ or less liquid tight. All parts must be listed for the use or type of power generated (like Solar, motor driven generator).
Some inspectors are easy some are real buggers. I have set a couple dozen of these up over the years and the biggest hassle is proving the grounding to show if it is a separately derived system. (I mentioned Solar since the comment about DC). Just another note the 156% wire size is on fabricated cords not the ones that come with the transfer switch that are molded.


CertainTeed DiamondBack- Waterproofing needed for tile?

According to the manufactures install specs, a separate vapor barrier is not required if you seal between panels with a waterproof sealant/caulk.  I found the complete install specs for you here:   http://www.certainteed.com/resources/CTG-2509_Diamondback_Install_Guide_Eng.pdf


Possible wiring configurations for isolated dishwasher location (satisfying 2014 NEC)

The "disconnecting means" rule doesn't apply to you

Keep in mind there's only one NEC which covers everything from homes to assembly plants to nuclear power stations, and a lot of the rules are actually intended for industrial settings.  The rule in 422.32 that says there must be a disconnecting means within sight of the appliance, and I have never seen that applicable to anything in a residence, wood shop notwithstanding.

First, the disconnecting means requirement is totally irrelevant to a cord-and-plug connected appliance.
Second, in a single-family home, your main breaker suffices as the disconnecting means (422.34c).
Third, good chance the dishwasher doesn't have a motor more than 1/8 horsepower, so would be exempted.

The rule is about planned maintenance in an industrial setting.  Maintainers are sloppy about doing LockOut/TagOut procedures, so Code now requires a shutoff within line-of-sight of the machine.  That way Bubba can turn his head and see the maintainer's cart and feet sticking out of the machine, and know not to turn it on; rather than guess at what's happening on the third floor. The rule also forces you (factory owner) to put local disconnects near machines, which makes LockOut/TagOut easier to do and more likely to be done.

A proper disconnecting means.  Note dual lock positions, lower to keep out curious fingers, upper for LockOut/TagOut.

NEC does not require GFCI Receptacles at all.

It's a common mistake to read NEC, see a requirement for GFCI protection, and interpret that in your mind as "a GFCI receptacle, you know, the ones with the TEST and RESET buttons".  There is no such requirement.  NEC does not care how or where your GFCI protection is derived - from a subpanel, breaker, deadface, the LOAD terminals off a GFCI receptacle elsewhere, they do not specify or care.

Likewise, it's common for people to get fixated on "You only have GFCI protection at a receptacle if I can see the TEST and RESET buttons", and likewise, totally untrue.

The reason this works is that almost any GFCI device has a set of terminals marked LOAD.  These are meant to accept a hot and neutral wire from other outlets, and it will provide GFCI protection for those outlets.

So you have wide choice here.

You can have a subpanel (with GFCI main breaker) for all your kitchen/bathroom/garage/basement loads.
You can put a GFCI breaker in the panel for that circuit.
You can put a GFCI deadface anywhere you please.  This is in the form-factor of a GFCI receptacle, but lacks any sockets.
You can put a GFCI receptacle anywhere you please, and feed this load off its LOAD terminals.  Many service panels have a receptacle just a couple inches from the panel, often installed as a convenience for the electrician while he wires the home or facility.  That is a great  place for a GFCI receptacle that feeds other loads.   Regardless of where you put it, you have to be realistic about how much other load your users will put into it.  A receptacle in the kitchen is at risk of having a microwave or panini grill plugged into it; most kitchen appliances which make heat use 1500W of power.  (that's in the US.)

Deadface GFCI.


Fill shower trap when it gets empty with water pressure

Here is a possibility but I'm not sure it would work in practice.

You'd need a container which could be sealed so that water will flow out the bottom when the end of the hose is uncovered, but when the cap on the container is secured a low pressure will develop on top of the water in the container. This is the principle used for animal water bowls which replenish a tray from an inverted container.

I can imagine a plastic jerrican with a hose coming from the bottom. Fill it and the water would fill the tube and start flowing. Then screw on the sealing cap and a 'partial vacuum' will develop above the water. When the pressure goes down to a certain level the water flow will stop.

When the trap is drained and the end of the hose exposed, bubbles of air may move up in the tube and increase the pressure above the water in the sealed container. The diameter of the hose is critical--it must be large enough for bubbles of air to move upward through the water in the tube all the way to the container.

You may  find that adding detergent to the water in the reservoir would enable bubbles to form and move up the tube when the end is uncovered. The detergent lowers the surface tension of the water and allows bubbles to move up the tube.


What is the reason and the fix for gaps between laminate planks?

According to this reference:
shrinking laminate floors, laminate floors float on the subfloor, and can slide lengthwise under the baseboards.

Their recommended solution was to glue the ends of the boards and push them together to close the gaps.


How to estimate the area required by first responders with a stretcher?

There is no code requirement for width of hallways in residences.

However, the minimum width for hospitals is 6’. This is primarily so gurneys can pass. (Btw, ER gurneys are much bigger than ambulance gurneys.)

The commercial code (not residential houses) require a doorway to be a minimum of 32” clear opening when the door is in the “open” position. If you add 2” for the door to project into the clear opening AND add 1/2” on each side of the doorway for the “stop”, then the minimum width door is 35” wide, but 36” is a standard width and makes it slightly easier for the wheelchair to pass through the doorway.

When we layout bedrooms, we leave about 2’ from the bed to the wall. This is for a nightstand and for ease of making the bed...which I think would be good for the caretaker too.

Also, remember that EMT’s get people out of bathrooms, etc. so they’ll get them in an emergency.


Is there a reason for an exterior vent not connected to anything?

No reason for such an opening.  You should stuff insulation into it and then cap it.  Or, if you have spare siding, remove it and patch the siding.


Is there a Grounding Electrode that can be buried less than 18"?

You need to talk to your AHJ

(Authority Having Jurisdiction, i.e. The guy who issues the permits).

This is provided for in the Electrical Code by giving AHJs latitude to set grounding standards to suit local conditions.  You are like the 10,000th person in their jurisdiction to have that problem.  They have compared notes with other AHJs nationally with similar geology.  They know how to solve it.


Should I scrape the paper backing from vinyl flooring off a concrete floor to prep for tiling?

I would not attempt to bond mortar to fuzzy paper. The resulting bond will only be as strong as the paper itself, which isn't good.

Use a combination of grinding tools, moisture, and scrapers to get the concrete reasonably clean before installing tile.


How to deal with a corroded copper water pipe?

Replacing it is the only viable option. You can buy a piece of pex and two push-on connectors for about $30 at your local home improvement store. The only tools you'll need are too cut the copper out and the pex to length - no tools needed for the connectors.


HEPA filter for GE portable air conditioner?

A HEPA filter would be far too restrictive for a portable air conditioner. Use only the filters that are specified for the a/c. If you want to HEPA filter the indoor air, then use a separate device designed to do that.


unauthorized usage of power, Locating source of excessive energy use

Without any additional equipment (a clamp-on ammeter), it's not possible to determine how much electricity was used from one specific outlet / fixture. And, even then, it won't be able to determine how much was used in the past, only what's used once the equipment is installed.

Even so, it's not likely the neighbors used a significant amount of electricity from a single receptacle. Assuming you're in the US, it's 120V 15A, which is 1800W max - run that for an hour, and that's only 1.8 kWh (anywhere from ~20 to ~50 cents, depending on your rates). 5 hours a night for 30 nights a month, and it's "only" ~$30 difference in your electric bill - probably rather insignificant with AC running during the summer. And that's a worst-case scenario; if they are actually using it it's likely not anywhere near the 15A limit and so cost is much less.

If your electric bill is unusually / unseasonably high, check your HVAC first, followed by your water heater (if electric).


Can I place ventilation ducting on top of joists if there is space?

I'm confused/surprised by the existence of the void, but if you've got the space, then go for it.

The only bit of mathematics to be concerned with is matching the cross section of the various sections of pipe.


No. It's all or nothing. Imagine a visually-impaired person (or someone in the dark) coming down your stairs and the rail ends. What's the assumption? That they've reached the bottom. That can end badly.


How to level out or grind down concrete basement floor?

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this but based on the statement:

  I had a french drain installed

it seems to me like if you paid someone (assumption here) to install a drain and they left it in a state where it is going to cause a puddle to form before water is able to drain into it, that it should be the company's responsibility at this point.  At the very least, you should be contacting them to get their explanation as to why it was done that way before attempting to undo what they did.


Band board in contact with ground- how to waterproof?

If it's properly treated for ground contact, "do nothing" works just fine. Entire foundations are made of properly pressure-treated wood.


You have some sort of plastic water line that works with a very specific type of stop valve that looks like the the one in the back of the last picture.  The plastic seats on the 1/4" valve body and the compression nut keeps it tight.
For some reason, it looks like you don't have the other side of that valve, and you are trying to connect it to a 1/2 x 3/8 valve with a 3/8 x 1/4 reducer.
If I had to do this myself, I'd either replace the stop valve with a 1/2 x 1/4, and see if you could get it to work with no brass ferrule,  or I'd cut the water line straight behind the compression nut, use a double end press-fit connector such as this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Guest-1-4-in-O-D-x-1-4-in-O-D-NPTF-Polypropylene-Push-to-Connect-Coupling-Fitting-803149/300753474
combined with a short piece of copper 1/4 tubing to your existing compression fitting.
Alternatively, they make metal inserts that stabilize the plastic water line, and you can just use the compression fitting that you have on that valve like you were trying to.
Edit:
Technique for using plastic compression fittings with brass reinforcement inserts is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=127&v=aFpZfr0YQ28&feature=emb_logo


Does your thermostat take batteries? The thermostat in my house takes a standard AA battery. When the battery got old, the thermostat went nuts. If it does take a battery, it's probably about due for a replacement.


Is it possible to have a reasonably soundproof sliding door to a bedroom?

If you have the money there are some fantastic barn door style sliding doors made of solid wood that should give you better sound deadening than a normal hollow core interior door.

Any door made of solid wood or even foam core doors will perform better than glass or hollow core doors as far as sound deadening is concerned. The thicker the better.

Pretty is one thing but practical is another. I think solid wood does both.


The only place tape is to be used is on threads, to be exact, tapered threads, the kind that are on pipe nipples, or the male threaded ends of valves for example. These are the kind that get tighter as you twist the parts together. If you look at the threaded end you can see the pipe is smaller at the end than farther down the length. Pipe dope can be used on these threads too. Pipe dope, otherwise can be used on the various types of compression fittings, the type that use a ferrule. When using metal pipe the type of pipe dope is not that critical, but if using plastic, be careful, there is pipe dope NOT for plastic.

In a nut shell, tape is for tapered threads only, dope can be used too. and either must be used or a leak will occur. Dope is to be used only on mating surfaces, flat, smooth or rounded. It is mainly insurance in my opinion, and I use it too, but the mating surfaces should make a tight fit on their own. I have had a many a leak before using dope, now the leaks are non-existent. Then again, maybe I just got better at it finally....


Should my stove's spark plugs all fire at once?

They all spark at once since there is only one spark module.


Your setup is "upside down"

Normally, 24VAC HVAC thermostats are set up to switch on the high side, connected between the ungrounded secondary terminal (R terminal) on the transformer and the actuator (gas valve, furnace control, zone valve, compressor contactor, fan relay, ...), with the other side of the actuator connected to the grounded secondary terminal (C terminal) on the transformer.

However, your system is set up the other way around -- R is routed to the actuators, which then are connected to the thermostat, which then connects back to C on the transformer.  (Think of it like a lightswitch in the neutral instead of the hot, just without the Code issues involved with that.)  This is fine for "dumb" mercury thermostats and "dumb" actuators like those in your existing system, but is not what today's programmable and "smart" thermostats expect, so our first order of business is straightening that out.

Rewiring this

As a result of the above, when you put in the new thermostats and thermostat wiring, you will need to connect the red wires in the new cables to the transformer R terminal, the white wires in the new cables to the wires from the zone valves that were nutted to the existing setup's W wires, and the blue wires in the new cables to the transformer C terminal, along with the wires from the zone valves that were originally connected to the transformer's R terminal (these move, as the zone valves don't care).  The green and yellow wires can simply be wrapped back along the cable jacket here, as they are not needed for this setup.

Once that's done, you should be able to get the zone valves to operate by jumpering the red and white wires at the thermostat ends of the new cables.  If that proves out, you can then remove the jumper and install the new thermostats as if they were connected to garden-variety HVAC systems, with the green and yellow wires left unconnected at the thermostat ends as well.


How high can I pour cement against my house

It depends on how the exterior foundation wall is constructed.

If it’s solid wythe brick and the brick extends down to the footing, I’d keep the top of the slab about one brick course below the interior floor surface.

If it’s solid wythe brick and extends down to a concrete stem wall, I’d keep the top of the slab about 1” below the top of the stem wall. The brick will be mortared to the top of the stem wall and it will crack and separate from the stem wall. This will allow moisture to enter your crawl space. The reason it’s not a problem now is because it’s a vertical joint and the ground is probably sloping away from the joint. As soon as you pour a slab against the wall, you’ll be “holding” water against the house and the crack, which will allow it to leak.

If it’s brick veneer, it should have weep holes and I’d keep the slab about 1” below the weep holes or about 1” below the concrete ledge on the stem wall that the veneer is sitting on...whichever is lower.

Remember, concrete is largest the day it’s poured. It will continue to shrink as it dries. (It may expand during freezing weather, but it’s minor compared to the drying process.) So, it will not put pressure (stress) on your exterior wall, unless you have a basement.


Software would be nice, but setting up your room diagram is probably more work than just trying your layout in reality. Plus, there's no substitute for actually seeing it in place.

I usually do this:

Lay a row of tiles down the center of the long axis of the room. Don't forget to space them as you intend to do with the final floor.
At key locations, run perpendicular rows of full tiles as far as they fit.
Fill in any other areas as needed to evaluate the layout.
If problems appear, shift the original row half a tile, so that the edge of the row aligns with the room's centerline instead. Also shift lengthwise as needed to reduce narrow tiles.
Analyze the layout again, and shift further as needed.

Once you find a satisfactory layout, be sure to look at it from adjacent rooms. If all is good, mark the key axis locations on the subfloor, and take dimension notes as a backup.


Trying to change regular outlets with GFCI in both bathrooms

It seems likely the breaker for the bathroom outlets has tripped.  Or possibly become disconnected somehow.

Start with the easiest first.  Inspect the breaker panel.  Most residential breakers do not visibly move the breaker handle when they trip.  To reset the breaker, turn it fully off and then back on.


Oak is famous for grain raise when varnished; you need to fine sand between coats.

Also important but under-advertised is the importance of applying coats that are appropriately thick when using water-based poly, too thin and the raised grain pokes right through.


Installed a dimmer and now it's controlling everything

How about we start by marking some wires with colored tape.

Wires that are supposed to be hot all the time get marked black.
Wires associated with the fan hot (that we switch) get red.
Wires associated with the lamp hot (that is dimmed) get blue.

Mark the appropriate hot wires amongst those five cables.

On the dimmer, you mark the supply wire black (is probably already that way) and mark the load wire blue (since it goes to the lamp) (it might supply as red, but we mustn't connect it to the fan!)

On the plain fan switch, you mark one terminal as black and the other as red.

Now, hook like colors together.

I don't understand how to hook colors together if the switch doesn't provide an on-board splice point for that many wires.

Then you use "Wire Nuts" generally, or you can use Wago style "lever connectors".   You probably want a red wire nut to connect as many blacks as you'll have to connect.

But one of the blacks is not a wire.  It's a switch terminal screw.

You need to use a technique called a pigtail. For this you need a few scraps of wire.  Buy 1 foot of 12/3 Romex, and cut it into two 6" sections and then peel the sheath off of it.  That'll give you a supply of pigtails in a variety of colors.

I use pigtails pretty much by default.  If I know my switch needs to go between black and red, I'll stick a black and red pigtail on the switch. This often makes for some redundant connections, but I don't care, and they work fine.


How do I wire up a shed for 60A service today with the ability to grow later?

Subpanel

I'm glad you got a decently large panel because you don't want to know what a CH duplex breaker costs.  CH products are great and sturdy, and I would use them everywhere, but the deal-killer is exotic breakers are wildly overpriced. Other people make great panels too.

You're making a classic blunder by worrying about the size of the main breaker in the subpanel.  It doesn't matter; it's nothing but an on-off switch.  Whatever practical reason you might imagine, isn't going to work the way you want.  Particularly, you can't get the local breaker to trip first, doesn't work.

So just go ahead and do what's cheapest, e.g. keep the 100 it's supplied with.  Its only purpose is a shut-off switch (and GFCI or AFCI if it does that, but you can't backfeed those.)

Gory details?  OK.  The breaker in the main service panel protects the wiring to the subpanel.  The main breaker in the subpanel protects the subpanel itself, but that is almost never an issue and won't be here.

Conduit and wire

You upsized the panel, good plan. You're going conduit, good plan.  Upsizing the conduit above minimums, also good plan: it makes pulling easier and lends future expansion.  Easy pulling is vital for DIY, so you can avoid hiring an electrician simply for his truck full of pulling tools. Electricians won't like doing just the pull and will want a bigger bite of the whole job.

Try to keep bends to a bare minimum, as they make pulling much more difficult. I aim for a maximum of one 90 degree bend between access points (boxes, conduit bodies etc.) but that is not possible in an outdoor run.

"Cable" describes a bundle which contains more than one wire.  You don't need to use cable in conduit; it's redundant and a waste of money (unless it's not, best to price it all ways).  You can use individual wires such as THWN-2.   You can use all-black if you want; wires 4 AWG or larger can be taped to indicate neutral and ground.  Wires are easier to pull than cable.

Aluminum wire is perfect for this.  You're absolutely welcome to oversize the wire (use a greater ampacity than you're breakered for).   If it won't fit on the breaker or lug, pigtail it with a screwdown splice.

As of NEC 2017 you will need to use a torque wrench/driver to set torque on screwdown connections.  So hurry :)


That would be paralleling. You can't do that.
Certainly, 120/240V split-phase can be confusing to the novice.  But when an amperage is stated, such as 60A, that always means exactly what it says -- you never halve or double it because of the split-phase.
Being a 240V breaker/circuit merely means it has 2 poles instead of 1.
"120V per pole" is actually how you think of it, but again, never multiply/divide.
So for instance it would have been acceptable to use two 120V 60A breakers and handle-tie them... (of course 60A 120V breakers are not made, but if they were; yes).
The only possible way to make two 2-pole 30A breakers work would be a cobbled-together version of paralleling... the paralleling rules are quite narrow and don't allow anything like that, for a variety of reasons.  Paralleling equipment is really special.


Is CD 12R 12 gage stranded wire suitable for use in an electric oven?

Use a dual-rated (TFFN/AWM) wire suitable for 105°C

The bad news is you have the wrong wire (UL listed wires are marked, and your replacement wire isn't, so it's no good).  The good news is that we know two things here:

This wire is replacing wire within an appliance, so UL-listed Appliance Wiring Material (AWM) is the correct family of things to use
We have the old wire's temperature rating (105°C)

Thus, we can safely use a dual-rated 16AWG stranded wire (TFFN/AWM) that has a 105°C rating when used in an AWM application -- most TFFN sold today will be of the dual-rated type, but double-check the printing on the wire when you're buying it to make sure.


Installing Ceiling Fan, Weird Double Switch Install

What I ended up doing was completely disconnecting the left light switch and rewiring the right switch.  I took the ground wire from the ceiling and disconnected it from the neutral connection and grounded it to the box.  Then I took what should be the neutral wire from the ceiling and hooked it up where the ground wire was improperly wired.  I left the hot wire connected to the light switch.  Now all three wires in the ceiling are operating as they should and I just have a dead light switch that I didn't need anyways.  I would prefer to not have that there still but I don't think it is worth the effort to remove it entirely.


How to get rid of gophers in the back yard without poison?

I'll echo @shirlock homes and ask for clarification if you are dealing with gophers or moles.

I'm not sure about gophers, but critters like moles will often burrow and tunnel into a yard because the yard is infested with grubs. They're there to eat the grubs. To get rid of the moles you then treat the grub problem and the moles go away.

Check out your yard, look for grubs and other insect infestations.


Can a drywall screwdriver be used as a regular power screwdriver?

Yes, I've done it for several years.  However, drywall screwdrivers are considerably more expensive than regular power screwdrivers (battery or corded) because of the clutch that allows them to engage and disengage the torque upon press.  Once you get the hang of setting drywall screws and develop the sense of how deep to go without the guard (if you haven't already), you will be able to set them with a regular power drill and a Phillips bit.  It is not that hard.  Just in case you were contemplating a purchase of a drywall one, I would say you don't need it and should go for the simpler and cheaper solution of just using a regular power screwdriver or even just a drill with a Phillips bit.  I hope this makes sense.


Adding rebar to deck footings and piers?

Concrete does not have very good tensile strength. Rebar is laid in such a manner that it adds tensile strength in the concrete.

Depending on the size and weight load the pier/footer assembly is expected to support and the length of the pier, it could be reinforced in the following manner.

A rebar circle in the footer to prevent weight spread from cracking it
Vertical members in the pier with L bent ends that sit over the top of the circle bent piece in the footer to reinforce against bending forces in the column

For a bridge just built here, they spiral-wrapped the vertical rebar reinforcement with a long helical bent reinforcement as a seismic forces precaution to prevent the rebar from shedding the concrete (rebar doesn't have very good strength against compression and bending).


How do I install EMT conduit for an outdoor 6/4 power run?

It is definitely doable.  Like @Tester101 indicates, you need a conduit bender.  They are available at the big-box stores.  Will be a little more expensive than you might like.  So will wire.  A pipe cutter, like the plumbers use would be advantageous to make your cuts square.  And, of course, you need a drill suitable to make a hole through your house. Other than that, you need a screwdriver, tape measure and pencil.

Your biggest challenge will be maintaining your patience.  Bending conduit is not intuitive.  You should do a little study before you start, and recognize that you're going to make a couple of miss-bends.


Why would capping one sprinkler zone cause my toilets to whistle?

Whistling toilets after plumbing alterations which occurs continuously except when flushed most likely indicates that debris was dislodged and is now affecting proper seal of the fill valves.

Turn off the water to each toilet, disassemble each fill valve, and give them a thorough flush by cracking the supply valve and letting water flow through, rinsing the washers and internal components. Heck, now is as good a time as any to go ahead and rebuild them by replacing all internal gaskets/washers.


If the mold is recurring, there is still moisture in the drywall. Keep a fan on the area until it's completely dry, and clean the mold off one more time. Once that's done, you can prime and paint and the problem should not recur. You might use a primer that's marketed as a good stain blocker.


How feasible is a brick veneer fake wall?

I think you might have better results with construction adhesive rather than mortar for sticking the brick chips. Mortar would just be for the joints, for appearance sake.

In the US this was popular decades ago - and I have to say, I never saw one that looked convincingly like real bricks.


How do I staple faced insulation to ceiling joists if the flange has been cut off for narrower spaces?

Option 1
Cut the fiberglass but not the paper. You could do this by pulling the fiberglass off the paper, sliding a protective sheet under, then cutting the fiberglass.
Option 2
Cut the batt, then add adhesive tape as a flange. Use fiber-reinforced paper packing tape or something similar that won't easily tear when you staple it.
Option 3
Use unfaced batts there and then add poly sheeting. Reduce waste by cutting the batts to 19-1/2" in length (a bit more so they're snug) and running them crosswise.


Sounds like you want 3 and 4 way switches everywhere. That’s fine. Designing where you put switches always should come back to how people use a room and putting a switch where they expect it. When using a 3 or 4 gang box the switch closest to the door should be the main light, the one you use most often. Then the lesser switches are farther from the doorway. It’s all common sense stuff. The only trick is to have the imagination to know how you’ll use a room when all that’s around you are bare studs.

Bringing up motion sensors makes for an interesting twist. I am putting them in bathrooms more often now. My favorite use is to attach the undercabinet lights in a kitchen to the motion sensor. When someone walks in the undercabinets feel welcoming without overpowering. When walking in at night I don’t always want the overhead lights to come on at the brightness I cooked dinner at, but I’m always happy to have the undercabinets. If I went into the kitchen to cook I’m already trained to hit the switch for the overhead lights.
So one option would be to put 3-way switches everywhere you’ll want them then next to that switch put a motion sensor that controls coved lighting in each room (its hard to say without seeing your house, but mine is from 1917 and every room except the kitchen has hanging picture molding and sometimes coved ceilings). I’ve seen that done well.


Does this CMU block wall on pool need rebar?

Do you need rebar? Yes. Concrete and masonry do not withstand tension. Tension is absorbed by reinforcing. Think of a diving board. When you stand on it, it bends. Same with your wall. When there is a stress put on your wall, it bends. On one side it’s in compression, which is taken by the masonry. On the other side it is in tension and needs rebar.

There are many stresses on your wall, 1) A person (or persons) leaning against the wall, 2) seismic activity, 3) wind loads.

1) You’ve created a “Guard” as defined by the ICC Code. Guards are required to withstand 200 lbs. applied to the top of the wall.

Your wall is only 26” high and you’ve designed “an attractive nuisance “. Who doesn’t want to jump off the wall into the pool?  That force on the wall when you jump forward could push the wall over.

2) Arizona is seismically active. (Northern Arizona is really bad, but Phoenix is active.) Heavy materials are harder to control in earthquakes.

3) Wind is probably not the governing factor.

I wouldn’t have any beer parties where a bunch of drunken friends start jumping off the wall or where they could be “horsing around” and stumble into the wall, until it’s checked out.

Btw, not all walls need rebar. Mass or gravity walls resist stress by shear weight. That’s possible, but highly unlikely and are usually battered (thicker at the bottom than at the top).

You may need buttresses every 4’ to 6’ on center along the length of wall for added support.


What is the difference between a ball/pin detent and friction ring impact wrench?

The pin/ball detent system is the more secure socket retention method. However they can be a real bear to release. They are especially tight when new sockets are used on a new gun. This is compounded if your hands are wet or greasy. The friction ring is still secure but lends itself to easier socket changes. So if you are going to install one socket and use it all day, over your head where it is likely to fall off the detent system is your choice. If you are using different sockets frequently where easy removal is important go with the ring retention.


Usual solution for racoons, who are stronger and more massive, is to bungee-cord the lids closed, and bungee the cans themselves to something stable (or sometimes to each other) so they can't be knocked over.

Picking a different design of trash can may help too.


Rule of thumb for prefilling drywall vs. recutting a piece of new drywall

You raise a number of issues.

How to fill an irregularly shaped hole?

To cut drywall (or any panel) to an exact shape with non parallel sides is hard. So what we usually do is make the hole regular. You can trim away some of the remaining drywall, preferably so the edge runs along the middle of a stud, parallel to another stud or the corner. Then cut a rectangular patch to fill the hole, leaving about 1/8 inch gap.

How to make a patch sit in the same plane as the wall?

In general, we want the whole wall to be on the same plane (when you place a straightedge on the face of one section, it sits flat on the adjacent section, neither gapped or raised). If a patch will sit below the level of adjacent wall, you can put shims behind the patch just thick enough to raise the surface to flush. You can use trim boards or tapered shims to get the right thickness, tack them in place with brads, and drill through them when installing the drywall. If the patch sits above the surface, its usually best to use thinner material (but don't violate fire laws about minimum thickness).

In your second picture, the patch looks like it is about 1/2+ lower than the wall. You should shim it out. Even though you could use tape or drywall corners to cover this zigzag, it's a weak, thin joint and will look odd.

How big a gap is acceptable?

Between panels, 1/4 inch is fine. Taping compound and tape will cover it with little difficulty. Putting on a coat of compound before setting the tape will fill the gap. If you are using mesh self adhesive tape, forcing a bit of compound through the tape into the gap couldn't hurt.

If you have a gap that is approaching 1/2 inch or more, you can run into a problem with shrinkage and strength in the joint. Consider recutting the patch. You could use a thin sliver of drywall to partially fill the gap before taping, but it will be a bit more of a challenge to  get it level and smooth.


Can I use another grout sealer after using Grout Boost?

Well... since you used it...

If another sealer will penetrate, then it didn't work in the first place.

If it does not penetrate, then its working...

It hasn't gotten stellar reviews for performance.

I did find a thread that suggests resealing with solvent based sealers rather than water based sealers.


Will an in line water regulator fix my tankless water heater trade off between pressure and hot water?

You need a water heater unit with a higher flow rate to bring the water temperature from 40 degrees to 120 degrees. Here in the Pacific Northwest, with year round water temps of around 45 degrees, it is advised to buy a MINIMUM of 7.4 gallons per minute flow rate in a tankless, whole house unit. At 2 or 3 GPM, your purchases are incapable of doing the job. (A 75° F shower is too cold for most of us at 98.6° body temps).
Flow rates out of showers and faucets have little to do with this. They are regulated by the government to save water from, for example, around 1.0 GPM at faucets to 2.2 GPM for a shower. I am referring to the flow rate of water through the tankless heater.
Many people think they can buy and install what is essentially a point-of-use tankless water heater (serving 1 shower or sink, for example) for whole house use to save money and get into trouble.
Is your fixture intended for whole house usage? (Serves all water heating needs in house, showers, sinks, dishwasher etc.) The answer to this question will guide my additional advice.


How do I properly lay a tongue and groove plywood subfloor in a remodel?

You defiantly need to support the subfloor around the perimeter.
Let's say this is your floor without plywood.

You want to put plywood down, but the edge of the sheet has nothing under it for support.

If you don't support the plywood, you'll end up with a "soft" spot around the perimeter.  Stepping, or adding weight to this area will cause the plywood to flex. This flexing will cause the area to feel spongy, and could damage the flooring (depending on the type of flooring). To solve this problem, you have a couple options.
Blocking.
Installing blocking perpendicular to the joists will support the edge of the sheet.

The size and spacing of the blocking will be determined by local codes, so consult your local government for these requirements.
Additional Joist
Another option, is to install an additional joist to support the edge of the sheet.

This extra joist may not have to span the entire length, and may be able to be supported by blocking between the existing joists. Again, check with local building codes to determine what is required.


Standard EMT tool for tempered glass car windows (after taping - packing tape preferred over duct tape) is an automatic center punch. A hammer and nail will work the same, it's mostly being a one-handed tool that's easy to carry that makes the ACP the preferred tool among EMTs.

If you're "smashing the whatever" out of it, you're doing it wrong. It just takes subtle application of force to a fine point. If you get lots of long shards, it wasn't tempered, and you'd need to be careful handling the shards (movie reference and graphic explanation of the desirability of tempered glass - the non-tempered glass in "Christine")


What is the best way to light a Lexan (Polycarbonate) sheet?

Cool question.  I have to dig back into my military (Air Force) experience to answer this one. We often used home made light boards to display equipment status and operational sortie info. We built a wooden frame that held the plexi apx 2 to 3 inches away from the wall with a black background panel. We then mounted 8 ft single florescent tube fixtures directly over the plexi, centered on the edge of the sheet, then covered the tube and fixture with a shadow board. This worked great. It illuminated the writing on the board, but blocked the light from coming into the room, creating the effect of neon light writing.  We used colored grease pencils. Red, yellow, green and orange really Pops out!!! I'm sure you can find LED strips that would do the same thing, perhaps a lot more expensive than florescent however. Today I bet you can use a polish, wax or treatment on the plexi that will allow you to use dry erase markers in place of the old fashion grease pencils. Sounds like a fun project, good luck.


HVAC / Furnace Evaporator unit in attic leaking cold air

I would pack a chunk of insulation in there , I usually use a soft putty that stays soft incase the unit requires servicing but air leaks in an I heated space add up to $ quickly. I bet you can find a chunk or 2 in an attic.


How to fix leaking basement window in foundation

All basement windows will leak given that you have standing water in the area.  This issue is about the drainage of water on this section of your house and not about the shape of the concrete.

Probably the easiest thing to do is to dig out around this area, add some rock and a drain pipe going out.  I can't see in the picture a "well" or cover either.

If this is not "standing water" for sure and you are getting direct rain, then silicone caulk will be far more effective than more concrete.


How accurate does a door rough-in need to be?

The reason for a rough opening is so that it CAN be rough in dimensions. Your opening should be no problem. Rough openings are made larger to accommodate headers and floors than out of level, adjacent studs that may be out of plumb, framing lumber that has thickness variations, openings that are slightly out of square and maybe some other things I've not thought of.

BTW, the jack studs are vertical so the proper term to describe their closeness to vertical is "plumb" and not level. The term "level" is used to describe things that are properly horizontal.


How can I remove brush marks from a wall painted with metallic paint?

Once dry, brush marks will not go away without sanding...sorry.

Once that is done though:

When you paint any given space you should move precisely and quickly.  So in this case when you cut out the space in your kitchen (brushing the edges) you should immediately (before the cut work dries) go over it with the roller and get the roller as close to the edge as is reasonable.

Even with good brushes (I agree with the poster who mentions using quality applicators, I was a painter for 10 years or so and they make a ton of difference) you will still see a difference between the sheen on the portions that are brushed and the portions that are rolled but this can be minimized if you roll over the cut portions before they dry as it makes the sheen/texture match.

Edit:  Also, if you are using the same paint again there is absolutely no reason to prime after you sand down the brush marks.


I had inspector come and looked into this issue.
He was also not sure why it was happened like that way.
He suggested to replace those two studs with new 2 studs. those two studs are just a waste right now as those are not attached to the top plate, also one of the stud is pretty old.
thanks


Will a fan cause pendant lights to move?

Assuming a ceiling fan, probably not at all. Ceiling fans push air down or up. If you had a fan mounted on the wall pushing against the side of the lamps, you would probably get movement. But not with a ceiling fan.


How do I seal a garden hose against a nipple?

Just last month I was attaching new hose ends to repair some hoses at my daughter's house. I was using hose ends like these equipped with barbed ends and die cast clamps as shown:

I found that the hoses being repaired had molded in ridges inside the hose that interfered with the sealing of the barbed fittings. The drawing below shows what a cross section view of the end of the two types of hoses had inside:

I found it necessary to use a narrow very sharp blade to trim away the extra material on the inside of the hose. Without doing that the hose ends would leak no matter how hard I screwed down the clamps around the hose.

It makes me wonder if the hose manufacturers are putting those ridges inside the hose to discourage DIY repair and force more new hoses to be purchased.


How do I install an occupancy sensor at a switch with only two wires?

If you mean there are only two wires at the switch then you cannot use a typical occupancy sensor at this location.

This type of switching is called a switch loop. The hot is brought down on the white and the switched black goes up to turn on the light. There is NO neutral wire in a two-wire switch loop.

This is why new codes require a neutral wire at a switch box location, even with a switch loop.

The ground should be connected to the ground wires in the box. If none exist, or the box is metallic and grounded, then just fold the ground wire into the box behind the switch.
You should definitely check the instructions to see if the ground is absolutely required. Switches in existing applications that are non-grounding can be replaced with new, but some electronic switches require a valid grounding conductor.


Is using the light switch screw OK to ground a wire?

If there's no grounding means in the switch box, and no neutral wire present, then the switch you have simply won't work. Get a different switch that's designed to run its
tiny control current through the attached light bulb filiment. Not an incandescent lamp, you say? Well, then, just rewire your house!


Is it okay to remove metal joints on the subfloor?

That is a strap tie and is meant to distribute a load over a distance (usually across boards, joists, studs, etc.)  I see it a lot in attics in Florida (ie hurricane straps) but not on floors.  Placing one on a seam, such as the long strap, really doesn't distribute a load but it could be one of those "contractor" quick fixes (ie, I only have 2 straps when I need 4 and I'll just put it down quick and nobody will ever be the wiser ... until I'm long gone).  The shorter strap actually looks like it may have been cut back as if someone noticed a bulge or tripped on it and decided to "remove it" without realizing it was a strap tie between two sheets of flooring.

Another thing I noticed is that the flooring appears to be OSB.  Although OSB and even particle board get used on flooring, I personally don't like the results when either of these get wet.  If it's not in a wet area (it appears to be an exterior entrance such as a mud room) and you don't live in a humid area of the country then you'll probably be fine BUT if you spill a lot of liquid on it or it gets damp over time and bulges and buckles then you'll know why (and have to replace that entire section of your floor).  I've seen some people seal OSB and particle board flooring and that might be an option too as well as using marine plywood for wet areas.

As to the fix, I'd leave the straps in place and depending on the flooring you're going to use there are a variety of possible solutions.  Carpeting, a nice thick padding should work okay.  Laminate or hard wood flooring, notch out an area in the padding or wood itself just as deep as the strap is thick.  Vinyl flooring, self leveling compound with a lauan plywood (1/8" thick plywood) to provide a clean smooth surface to attach vinyl or laminate).  Tile, if it's level enough then your mortar/thin set will cover it as long as you're already level.

Here's where I found the straps in your picture (www.dhcsupplies.com/store/p/3804-ST9-Strap-Tie-1-1/4-X-9.html):


TLDR: Don't use dodgy or bad paint, it will cost you way too much in your time to fix the result.

The foul-smelling water is part of the paint, and you just wrecked the paint. It is foul-smelling because it contains things other than water, which perform a necessary function to curing the paint.  It won't work without it.  It is normal for paint components to separate out, leaving watery stuff at the top and solids at the bottom.  So your reflex should never be to "dump it off".

Although realistically, if you had a crack in the lid, the essential volatile chemicals in that paint will have dried out regardless, even if they were replaced by rainwater -- it is now no longer functional paint.

Also, do not leave paint where it will freeze or get hot from the sun, and if you did, throw it out because it will not be reliable.

Alternately, you have low-VOC latex paint which has turned moldy (the VOCs, now outlawed, did a pretty good job of arresting mold).  Anytime you get stinky paint, Do Not Use It because the stink will not go away.  We have plenty of questions like "I painted my house with stinky paint, now my house smells disgusting and it won't go away, I've tried everything, what do I do?"  The solutions are not easy.  In most cases, their motivation was to save money.

People forget the big cost of a paint job is not the paint.


Cutting laminate countertop with minimal waste

They do make edging strip (glues on, at least that's the one I used) to close the open sides and they also do aluminum edging strip or chromed ones.

If I find a link...

Oh, and measure twice and cut once : definitely don't want to go wrong...


How to frame a wall around existing exterior door

Thanks for the picture & diagram updates, your initial question was a little unclear to me. You'll have to move the door in order for it to open more than 90-degrees & to flat upon the wall.

Move the door, its jamb & threshold inside to be flush with the new stud wall's drywall finished surface elevation for a full door swing. Then, extend the door jamb (sides & top) out to the exterior wall & re-apply the exterior trim. This provides a good exterior recess & overhang to protect the door & threshold from weather & spiders will love it.

Additionally, since your door will now be mounted to your interior stud wall instead of the very & completely solid foundation wall. You'll want to solidify the stud wall & attach it to the door's existing framing with a toe-nailed or toe-screwed 2x4 bridging connector. This will also assist greatly with the jamb extensions & their seamless alignment.


Why does the breaker keep tripping on a circuit with two rooms' lights and a sewer pump?

Sewer pump should be hooked up to GFCI.  So that is the first step - change out the outlet to a GFCI.  The reason this will help you is first it is code in some places and second if the pump is the culprit then it will pop the GFCI outlet.

Also is this a 20 or 15 amp circuit.  Some sewer pumps are rated for 20 amps and above.  I actually have almost the exact same situation in my basement.  And the pump does flip the breaker every once in a while.  You are lucky to have lights on them.  We had a couple outlets and one powered our deep freezer.

So get a GFCI.  You could have a short - so look at the connections for everything.  Then the last thing is look at the panel.  If it is 15 Amp you might need to take the pump off the circuit and run a 20 amp line for it with 12 gauge wire...


How to keep Structolite from cracking as it dries

The Structolite is drying out too fast, because the bare brick is wicking out all of the moisture.

You need to use a bonding agent and possibly add some sand to your base coat, as well as scarify it, for any successive coats.

If this project is going to have any substantial thickness, it probably wouldn't hurt to also add some kind of structural support, like wood and/or metal lathe.

I use the latter all of the time, when doing repairs where the plaster has fallen completely off sections of wood lathe.


Do outlets in damp locations require GFCI protection?

NEC GFCI requirements
Underwater pool lighting since 1968

On Receptacles:

Outdoors (since 1973)
Bathrooms (since 1975)
Garages (since 1978)
Kitchens (since 1987)
Crawl spaces and unfinished basements (since 1990)
Wet bar sinks (since 1993)
Laundry and utility sinks (since 2005)

Looking for any further wiggle room?

Feeling that light tingle in damp conditions might be the last thing you remember.


New Pressure Treated boards are wider than existing ones

That is because the new boards are still "wet" with the pressure treatment and are new. Once they dry out, in a few months, they will be the same size or close to it. Lay out the deck with the boards but don't screw them down yet. Let them dry out, flipping them over often. I let mine dry out for 12 weeks. Don't seal them yet either.


What are these two Sewer Pipes Coming up Out the Ground?

They are probably additional clean-out-points - my local inspector wants one every 50 feet (15 meters) along the line. But my comment that you should ask the people who put them in, who would know, stands as the correct way to figure that out.

If so, they should remain accessible, but be protected from sunlight, as they appear to be PVC. You can paint them for basic sun protection, or my preferred approach is to build a small rock or brick wall around and put a large flat rock or patio block on top of it - easy to find, easy to access, but out of sight and out of sunlight.

Should not affect your planned garden particularly, though you should beware of the possibility that they MAY not be vertical all the way to the buried line - they might angle towards the street before the connection to the line, so when digging near them, dig slowly and carefully. Non-perforated PVC pipes are far less "root infiltratable" than clay pipes were.


Professional flooring installers would flood from the high point to the low point with self level.  They typically charge per bag and I've seen this kind of job cost 15k when done for more than one level of a house.  You can do as you suggest a hybrid approach.  Installers won't typically go that route because it is a lot more labor and requires a lot more expertise and judgement calls.  They want a fool proof and easy way to get the floor flat and there is more room to go wrong when making judgement calls.
Note you are going for flat not level.  Typically your finished floor material will say 1/8" over 10' or something like that.  To see how bad your floor is you take a 10' straight edge and move it around the room, then I sometimes use horseshoe shims (these come in 1/16 - 1" thick) and see which size will fit under any gaps that are visible under the straight edge.
Some things to keep in mind.  You can go outside the 1/8" over 10' if you can tolerate being able to detect bounce in your floor - I am assuming you are going for floating install.  It is worth also thinking about what section of the floors are being used for.  You'll notice out of flat more if this is a walking area than if this is under furniture.
I've done the hybrid method before.  If you put plywood down first to build up the 1" and then try to use SLC to feather out to the plywood you end up having a join between the edge of the plywood and the SLC and this edge is likely to crack.  If you just pour the SLC then there is no sharp edge transition.  You can mitigate the transition with different techniques.  This is why SLC is typically the one stop solution.
I hadn't heard of Henry 549 - it is interesting that it is a cement based SLC but doesn't require a primer over plywood.  Mapei and Sika both require a primer.
If you are doing the work yourself at $20-30 a bag you probably aren't much ahead using the plywood - labor is probably worse for the plywood with the cutting screwing and gluing but if you aren't investing in the SLC tools (spiked roller, squeegee, trowels, spike shoes, etc) then might be easier if you already have the carpentry tools.
If you are going the plywood layer method then filling in the large dip with SLC first makes a lot of sense.  The issue you run into is how do you adhere the plywood over the SLC.  I've screwed through it before and it can crack.  If it cracks and the pieces are able to move around then you can end up with noise when you walk on it.  Probably the best approach is to use construction adhesive on that section but you'll need to put a substantial weight on the plywood to ensure it pushed out any air.  Construction adhesive also can tend to be thick so it can end up pushing the plywood out of level especially if you aren't screwing it down (this is harder the thicker the plywood is.  You could trowel the adhesive onto the plywood much the way tiles are trowels do the ridges collapse and the air is able to escape.   Probably better to go with a glue used for glue down installs and use that to bond the plywood to the SLC over the area.  Hopefully the dip isn't huge - hard to tell how large the area of the dip is.
I'd expect any settlement to be finished.  If your joists are undersized and you have crazy amounts of movement in the floor it is possible the SLC would delaminate from the plywood overtime.  If you are installing with an underlay then I wouldn't expect a problem if it cracks but the floor is flat then any cracked piece won't have anywhere to move.  The underlay would further suppress noise of it between the finished floor and either the intact SLC or the subfloor.  Professional floor installers use SLC on super high end homes, if there were a tendency for it to breakdown overtime they wouldn't use it or there would be crazy amounts of lawsuits.  The henry 549 has a max lift of 1/2" so you'll need two lifts.  The other thing to watch is that this product doesn't require a primer and the plywood is going to suck the moisture out of it.  Sika and Mapei require primers (on plywood it is a latex primer) which prevent moisture from being sucked out of the mix.  I'd go for cold water for extra work time and you probably want to prewet your plywood.   Both mapei and sika have SLCs that can be feathered.


Plasterboard on roof rafters. Is this okay?

There is nothing wrong with installing drywall on the rafters. You mentioned it's pretty dusty up there, keep in mind the that dust is coming from the soffit vents and will continue to do so after the drywall is installed. You don't want to block off the soffit vents. Not sure where you live but if it's in a hot climate, do yourself a favor and wait until October to do the work. Good luck.


Is the White color good for wall paint for rooms that are not exposed to the sun?

All modern residential paint is white or an off-white.

I know the colorist is talking about blues, yellows, greens, pinks etc. -- but it's all pretty much white.  You can't go wrong.

If you really wanted OSHA safety orange, they do sell that in paint, but nobody wants that in a house.  Or on a house.  If you painted a house that, you'd hear from the HOA or city manager.

If you want the brightest white that ever was, ask the paint company about the highest reflectivity paint they make, typically a "snow white"... whatever... all those names are made up.


How to find this particular hot water heat pump?

If that loop is unused then it would probably be just as easy to replace the pump with another brand that fits the gap. If you can find a local shop that has a new Grundfos or Taco pump that has the same size fittings and gap between them you could swap a new one in. You could easily find one with the same GPM rating.


VT1001 talking thermostat has started saying “two sixty four”

Replace the unit.   I inferred that the spoken numbers were likely the firmware version and conveyed no additional information.  There are newer units on the market which are trivial to install and which have the same or better features that cost (2018) in the range of $50-$75CAD ($35-$55USD).


What are the key differences between a step drill bit and a knockout punch?

A knockout punch is typically capable of going through thicker metal - at the very least, it will do it faster. A quick search easily finds knock-out punches that can do 10 gauge steel, where most step bits don't seem like they'd do well beyond 16 gauge (though I can't find anything that really says the limit).

For thin metal though, the step drill bit is probably faster, if for no other reason than the setup/tear-down time of the punch (eg, after you punch the hole, you still have to unscrew the punch).

Knockout punch:

Step drill:


Can dielectric grease be used in coax connections?

Living and working as a cable television technician in a beachside region, I can attest to the value of the silicone dielectric grease for improving the lifespan of these connections. Salt air eats everything in time, yet the grease prevented corrosion after five years. The fittings were assembled with "boots," rubber covers which resemble spark plug wiring ends. The grease was applied liberally, inside and out, and the boots then slid over the fittings.

Sun, salt, sand and wind would eventually deteriorate the rubber, but even then, the fitting within the mass of grease held up quite well.


How to caulking a bathtub with various size edge between wall and tub

Just my thoughts on this:

I see mold everywhere, even by the faucet
the first thing you need to do is figure out what is behind the tile.  If it is drywall you are absolutely wasting your money doing anything.
if it is not drywall the first thing I would do is give it a heavy heavy spray of anti-mold cleaner.  Maybe 2-3 doses.  Scrub away mold using as little water as you can (this is a whole different question and will take a lot of man power).  I would then either not use the tub for a couple weeks or put up plastic sheets around tub.  You can get some painters plastic and tape it 5 feet high and your walls will stay dry.
if after a couple of weeks (at minimum) you still don't see the mold come back then we can talk about grout and caulk.  If the mold grows back either take down tile or keep plastic sheets up.  Either your mold is out of control or you have a leak behind wall.
if no mold you can grout and caulk.  Let's start with the gap by the tub.  This is too big to caulk for sure.  There is nothing wrong with grout here.  Do not install trim or other tiles at the bottom, that introduces more problems.  What happens if water gets in this first grout line?  It sits on tub, no big deal.  Your mold is coming from above.  After the mold is gone simply add more grout over this.
for the rest you are are going to have to scrape out caulk and grout, regrout, then caulk and quite possibly put some sort of waterproofing on the whole area.  The water could also be entering through the tiles themselves.  If they are old ceramic these will let water through.
my final thought is just I would never worry about doing anything more than hitting it with some mold spray.  All the other time/money is a waste.  You can buy cheap tile for $100 and another $50 for grout/thinset.  Add another $50 for backer and you are at $200.  Thinking about the time and money you are going to spend I would just wait and do it right.


What type of hinges do I need for this cupboard?

It sounds like you need a "concealed door hinge" This will let you close the doors flush with the surface and the hinge will not be visible when the doors are closed.

Here is a link to a hinge page with a few possibilities.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cabinet-hinges/=onl7hs

We order from McMaster Carr regularly. They are a reputable company.

They also have magnetic push to open latches, so you don't have to have any hardware at all like handles showing either.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#magnetic-latches/=onlapj

Good luck on your project!


You're not going to be able to reasonably cut the square out with your hand saw. You'd have to scrape through the wood instead of cutting it.
Pick up or rent a coping saw and a hand drill (See saw below). Drill a hole in the four corners, remove the blade from the saw and run it through a hole, hook it back up and saw away.


Replace Attic Fan Without Going on the Roof

When I've replaced motors in the past I replace with the exact part if you went with that approach you shouldn't have to worry about clearances but it would be painful to work within that constrained space.

It doesn't look like this fan is designed for serviceability from the inside but there are a lot of things like that so it doesn't surprise me that you can only remove from the roof.

A couple other thoughts.

It looks like you could pull the whole fan into the attic (minus the exterior wall cap portion).  Depending on how the exterior portion is attached you might be able to somehow secure the exterior portion from falling out and then detach the whole fan assembly from the inside and pull it through.  This might save you a trip onto the roof but you'd still probably need one trip to resecure the wall cap portion.

You could also cut the vertical supports 1/2 way and then scab a new piece of metal that is drilled and bolted to the original overlapping the cut.  This would give you future serviceability.

I am not sure what approach I'd take.  Depends on if you plan to keep the house, your kids will inherit it, how hard the roof access is, your siding details, cost of a full new unit, availability of parts for the current unit.  This won't be the last time the fan motor dies.


Should I use 12/3 NM cable for a 240 volt 40 amp electric cooktop?

Not even remotely close. You need 8 gauge copper or 6 gauge aluminum wire.

A 20 amp dual pole breaker supplies 20 amps at 240 volts (line to line), or 20 amps at 120 volts twice (line to neutral and line to neutral). You need a 40 amp at 240 volt breaker.

...and these two questions in combination strongly suggest that you get professional help before you cause yourself an expensive problem. Like the price of a new house expensive.


Can one hinge allow for a flat 180° without a gap and an offset at 90° (see drawing)?

You could go down to your local woodworking shop and ask for a full overlay hinge for thin materials. They should point you toward a beast like this:

Looks like this closed:

Picture courtesy of https://tddhardware.com/


Wiring L14-20 Receptacle on generator to a 6-20 Plug

Correct.  The 6-20 plug has no neutral. It needs no neutral.

You don't even need to use /4 flexible cord**.  You can use /3, hot-hot-ground or hot-(taped white)-ground, and there won't be a neutral wire to connect.

** In flexible cord, grounds are counted in the number, unlike Romex/NM cable.


2a modified crushed stone vs minus gravel

Generally anything that is "modified" means it has some limestone dust mixed with it, the idea is that once it is compacted, over time as rainwater falls on it, the water works down through it and causes it to harden into a unified piece of rock like concrete.  Sometimes they call it "treated" instead of "modified"   The "minus" stuff is just whatever comes out of the crusher.  For example 3/4 minus is gravel that has rocks no larger than 3/4" but has rocks that can go down to the size of sand grains.
As for what goes into it, "minus" can be anything from broken chunks of concrete, to actual rocks, to a mix of bricks, rocks and concrete all fed into a crusher and sifted to keep rocks out of it that are larger than the rating.
The minus stuff is generally what you put down when you are planning on putting asphalt or concrete on top of it.
The modified is what you put down when you aren't going to cover it but want a surface that will eventually firm up so you can park cars on it, etc.  It can take a year for that to happen, though.


How can I replace a NEMA 6-30 cord & plug with a NEMA 14-30 cord & plug?

NEMA 14-30 is 120/240V, with neutral to provide 120V from either hot to neutral. Hots are normally black and red and neutral is white.

NEMA 6-30 is 240V only with no neutral. Presumably in the old cord, black and white were the hots.

You need to cap off the new white wire (neutral) and connect the red (hot2) in its place to L2.


The black with the 117 ish and the white from that same cable go to the line side then the black with 30 and that white go to the load. Make sure to get the correct black and white wires coming from the same cable on each side this configuration will provide GFCI protection to everything down from the GFCI connect the bare copper to the green ground screw.
The 30 ish in almost every case phantom voltage it has no real potential and is induced voltage because the line wires are running with the load , nothing to worry about. This is how transformers work but they have lots of wire in close contact so you get the current there but not here.
Edited ;
I misread the voltages thanks to doxylover, the white wire that appeared grounded and the black in cable that it is with is probably the line side   The black and white on the load showing a voltage is still phantom, if we want to verify this the safest way is to tie the 2 whites together then with the blacks not connected plug in a load down stream the whites instantly go to ground when connected and since the 1 phantom black is now connected to a load the voltage will dive. If a hair dryer or other large resistive device is used the voltage on the load black will be close to zero but maybe a few volts. The line side black won’t change still 117 and the white that that black comes in with is the proper neutral for the line side.


What's a good way to support a freestanding chimney?

My first inclination would be to install a concrete footing 3 or 4 feet deep by maybe 1 1/2 to 2 feet square. Put a concrete block or paver in the bottom of the hole to support the pipe. Plumb the pipe (2 or 3 inch galv should work well) with some temp 2X4 braces, then pour concrete into your hole.  Be sure to crown the top of the footing a little so water will drain off and not pool around the pipe. The reason I like a large footing is to supply good ballast and avoid any frost heaves.(if you get ground freeze in WA.) Also, don't forget to put a cap on the top of the pipe so water will not fill the pipe. You may also want to paint the pipe with Rustoleum before attaching the stainless straps to the flue. This will help avoid any reaction from dislike metals in contact with each other.


Least invasive way to find foundation footings under basement slab?

There’s several issues you’ll need to determine to “dig-out basement” 1) location and type of all existing footings, 2) load on existing footings, 3) angle of repose of soil, 4) water table.

1) In order to not undermine the existing footings, you’ll need to not only locate the extent of all footings, but insure you understand what type of footings are under your house. Just because you see a continuous spread footing, it doesn’t mean that it doesn’t have piers or piles under it.

2) you’ll need to determine the existing load on the footings so you know what kind of load is being transferred to the soil. (This May help you determine what type of footing is installed. If it’s too unreasonable for the soil conditions, then you can be sure other systems are included, like piles, etc.)

3) If the footing is bearing directly on the undisturbed soil, then the footing is relying on the soil that falls within the angle of repose for that soil to resist that load. You cannot dig straight down next to the footing without undermining its support.

4) you’ll need to determine the water table depth for all seasons in order to protect the basement from moisture.

Now, to answer your question: you can try a snake camera (as someone has suggested) but that will only work if there’s a void under your slab. I doubt that’s the case, because you’d need a structural slab for a basement floor, or you could use an x-ray machine (we use these to find rebar in concrete), or try Building Codes for old blueprints, or trial and error with a small drill...however, you could allow water to flow in, weaken the slab or footing,etc., or you could ask architects, contractors, cement finishers, cement yards, etc. to see if there is a standard type of footing used for your type of house in your neighborhood.


Confusing result on three-light outlet tester

I would suspect a switched neutral here.  Turn off the breaker for the circuit, then measure continuity between the neutral and ground holes on the receptacle with the switch in each position.  If you get continuity with the switch ON but not OFF, there's your culprit -- only fix for that is to rewire the switch so it switches the hot.


Submersible Well Pump Quits Under High Demand

On a submersible pump, the motor is cooled by the water.  If the pump starts sucking air, water is no longer flowing around the motor, the motor overheats.

A well in operation produces a cone of depression in the surface of the water level in the aquifer.  If the aquifer is very permiable, the cone is shallow.  If you have a restricted aquifer the cone is deep.  Pump long enough, and you have a say 30 foot diameter zone that the entire aquifer is drained out, with a few inches at the bottom streaming into the well.  Stop pumping and the aquifer levels out.

I suspect that what is happening is this:

You start to pump.
After a while, the pump is exposed.
It warms up, and it's thermal protection shuts off.
You reset it.
The aquifer starts to fill.
Repeat.

That the 5 minute break is enough for normal operations to resume means that the aquiver is almost capable of keeping up with the pump.

If I'm right, there is nothing wrong with your pump other than it's too big for your well.

Test for this:

Start with having ALL the water in the house shut off.  Someone taking a shower or flushing a toilet will mess up your numbers.

A:  When you run a garden hose wide open, how long does it take for the pump to cut out.  This is going to be a murky number because of the pressure tank.  If you can isolate the pressure tank it will be easier.  Lets call this time Wi  for wide open isolated tank.

B:  While this is happening, time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket.  With a typical garden hose it will be about 25-50 seconds.  This is Ti

C:  The pump cuts off, and the water flow stops.  This is Pi the time from when you turned on.

Give the well a rest.

D: Start it up again, but close the garden hose tap enough to increase Ti by about 20%  So if it was 25 seconds before, it now takes 30 seconds.

If my theory is correct, your well may be happy with this new value and will pump all day.  Record the new time it takes for pump shut off.

Repeat the rest, and check, adjusting the flow to increase the time by roughly 20% increments until the pump keeps running/

Let's suppose your final  time was 75 seconds.  75 seconds/5 gallons = 15 s/gal.  Invert that to get 4 gal/minute.

Go to your local well supply store and ask for a 4 gpm flow restrictor.

Install that somewhere between the pump and the pressure tank.  Do it in a way that you can take it apart later.  You may have to swap it for a 3.5 or a 3.

If you can't isolate the pressure tank, it gets a bit messier.

Start by waiting for the tank to reach full pressure and for the pump to shut off.
Turn off power to the well.
Go outside, and open your tap, timing how long it takes to empty the pressure tank.  You can use any arbitrary cut off point.  You just want to be consistent.

You want to be able to recognize when the pump goes off.  This time is subtracted from the running time of the pump in all the tests above.

Whenever you start a new test, let the pump come up to equilibrium with the tank before you do any timing.  If it takes 3 minutes for the tank to drain, then wait three minutes after you turn the pump on to time your 5 gallon fill.  You may want to do several 5 gallon fills to see if you are getting consistent timing.

In operation you won't notice the flow restrictor.  The pressure tank will still hold a shower or two of water at normal pressure.  (Assuming you don't have one of these tiny ones) If you use water long enough the well will cut in, and you will get only the 4 gpm from the well, instead of the 6-8 gpm from the pressure tank.  Note that most showers now are 3 gpm.  A toilet may be 3-5 gpm for a minute depending on how old it is.

You will notice it watering the lawn.  You will get several minutes of high pressure watering, the tank will drop to some lower value that 4 gpm can keep up with.  This will mean you have to adjust your sprinkler after a few minutes, or use lower flow sprinklers.


Is it practical to install a second water heater near my kitchen?

In the US the code requires the water heater to be a safety listed device (e.g UL listed).  Modifications of the device void the safety listing. So it would not be in compliance to do this.


What should I use to secure/organize data cable runs?

It's not real critical. When wiring phone centers we used metal raceways (or a thrown-together wood one) in the ceiling, but for my house I used pipe clamps like the one you posted at about 4' spacing. I like to add a wrap of double-sided velcro around bundles going to the same box, also about every 4'. Near the demarcation point I might use a few screw-in hooks like those used to hang bicycles if there are a lot of cables going out in one direction.

Don't fasten the cables to anything too securely. That way you can use the old cables to pull a new one if it becomes necessary.

One important detail: do not use zip ties. They can constrict over time and damage the cables they're wrapped around. (They're also tougher to pull new cables through than velcro loops.)

You didn't ask about routing them, but I guess it's relevant to explain the assumptions my recommendations are based on. I always do horizontal runs in the floor/ceiling and then run vertically within the bay where the junction box is located. (Rather than meandering through the wall as shown in one of pumpkin's photos.) This means less holes to drill and usually less resistance when pulling the cables. I also leave an empty bay (two studs) between mains and network cables, so I don't need to worry about securing the drops (recommended distance is at least 1' apart when running parallel to mains).

If you wanted to make pulling new cables even easier without doing a full PVC conduit setup, you can just install PVC fittings such as 90° elbows where the cables pass through the top plate or sole plate. That's were all the friction is going to come from when pulling, so some nice smooth PVC lining the holes can smooth things out nicely. (This of course assumes you'll use one of the existing cables to pull the new ones. Obviously you won't be able to run a fish tape without the sections of PVC connecting the fittings.) The fittings would also ensure that you don't go under the cable's minimum bend radius of 1 inch.

One other thing that I'll mention just in case is heat. Large, tightly-wrapped bundles of cable (think 50+ cables) that are being heavily utilized have the potential to trap heat in the center which can eventually degrade the insulation and cause shorts. Unless you're running a grid computing cluster at your house that's not likely to be a problem though. A more likely scenario for the average home owner is the use of Power over Ethernet, which will generate more heat. If you're planning to use PoE I'd limit bundles to 7 or 8 cables, just for good measure, even though I think the odds of a problem are still very low.


Rebar cutter and bender's and the relative grade range of steel

The International Residential Code (IRC) requires a minimum of 40,000 psi (Grade 40). (See ICC IRC R404.4.6.1)
I think most architects and engineers design for Grade 40 or 50, because they are readily available.
If your working in a high seismic zone or high wind area, they may use a higher grade. Also, commercial work is often Grade 80.


How do I cap off a pipe below by hot water heater's cutoff valve?

Absent the presence of any valves...go to hardware store plumbing dept. And get a 3/4" sharkbite or tectite end stop. You just shove this on to the end of the (cut or removed)  blue pex pipe. Get a 1/2" one in case I'm wrong judging size from the pic...be sure to buy the same size removal tool as well. It is cheap.
I keep these in my emergency preparedness kit...
If you post a pic of the top of this valve, we can help with temporary plumbing. Good luck with your recovery!


I'd suggest you chuck the door. Chipboard won't hold hinge screws well, nor will it make an attractive surface for the strike side.

If you were desperate to use this door, you could cut a channel in the chipboard edge and insert/glue a 2" piece of solid wood. Getting a really clean surface inside the channel would be hard.

At 31-1/4, you're pretty close to a 32" door, so you shouldn't have a hard time finding something appropriate.

For what it's worth, many in the door industry call this kind of door "solid core". I'd give volunteers at the Restore a little leeway for getting the description wrong.


Looks like there's something causing damp on the walls - which is most likely why the old paint was peeling in the first place.

Ideally you need to track down what's causing this in the first place (take it from me these things don't just get better on their own!) - if you can't track this down though or the issue isn't something that is going to get worse or cause other problems you could try coating the wall with some damp sealant paint and re-painting over that.


The waste hose on washing machine sits on floor/low

Yes there will be a little stagnant water but there always is the pump is in the bottom of the machine and it can only push water out as long as there is water to push when the pump stops the pipe is still full any extra pipe on the ground will add to that amount but a couple of inches won’t be more than a cup or 2 added to what is there no washer that I know of empty’s that last quart or so of water.


Paint-stripping purgatory - stuck in the middle - what should we do?

Given the high likelihood of lead based paint, I would not under your current circumstances attack this with a grinder or a sander. You'll create lead-contaminated dust which will haunt you for a long time. Doubly so if any children come into contact with your house. EPA pamphlet here: EPA RRP

So, it would seem that you can either remove and replace the painted wood with new, or continue stripping safely.

New casing and baseboard is pretty easy. Windowsills less so. Door jambs way less so, though that would also get rid of the pesky issue of stripping the door.

Stripping-wise, you might need to let the stripper work longer, or change to a more noxious product. (I'd still go for the noxious stripper over the lead dust any day of the week.)

(edit: forgot to mention heat guns... If you can find a heat gun with a regulated output and know for a fact that it isn't over 1100 degrees F, a heat gun might help.)

Good luck! And by the way, there's no shame in starting a project and discovering surprising obstacles.


It’s called a “wicket”. It’s used when the window screen is on the inside and the window has an operator (crank, etc.) that opens the window “out”.


do 18" perfections and 18" tapersawn shakes have the same recommended maximum exposure

There is a maximum exposure for wood shingles. 18" shingles will have the same amount, whether tapered sawn handsplits or perfections. Maximum exposure is based on the remainder of the exposed part of the shingle to extend up under 2 more courses that way, where the nails are that hold the shingle in place, which by the way is always 2 nails regardless of how wide the shingle is. That way the water passing around the edges of the shingle onto the shingle under it has another shingle to get around before it causes a leak. The other guide line is that the shingle gaps are to be no closer than 2" apart from the shingle above or below.

On a 4/12 pitch, the rule may change there you may need to tighten up the exposure where the shingle top is covered by 3 shingles and not 2.

For example, maximum exposure for an 18" shingle will be 8" for a roof with a higher pitch than 4/12. On a 4/12 pitch the exposure would need to drop to 5 1/2".

With a lower pitched roof the rain water will not move off fast and would have a chance to migrate deeper around the shingles, therefore more chance of a leak.

The butt thickness only adds to the longevity of the shingle.


Why did my coat of spray paint crack along a profile line?

Might be caused by the second layer shrinking beneath the third layer because it hadn't fully dried.
In high humidity conditions, I generally increase the recommended drying time between recoats by 25%, just to be safe.

Alternatively, if the backside of the door has been stripped and hasn't been resealed, the door itself may be expanding slightly due to the humidity.

I haven't actually had this happen before on something like a cabinet door, so these are just guesses based on experience with painting outdoors.


How common is it for new homes to have gas-only dryer hookups?

Around here (Pacific Northwest), electricity is inexpensive and gas is reasonable too.  However, over the last five years, gas prices have declined and will continue to do so and electric has crept up slowly and probably will forever.  Almost all houses here have electric dryers and every single rental (house, apartment, condo) is only electric, even those with gas fireplaces, water heaters, and ranges.

Personally, I like the option of using either gas or electric.  It would not increase the price I'd pay for the house, but it would be one less barrier to moving in.  And that might sway a non-buyer into a buyer.

If it were me, I'd relocate the abandoned wire to be near the new location.  If an unused breaker is actually a problem, just run the wire into the panel full length (so it can be connected anywhere when the time comes) and tuck it out of the way, and secure it, maybe all wires into the neutral strip.  Install the outlet and mark it "not connected".  Place the heavy duty outlet to be semi-accessible so that it could be used by some future high power appliance, like a big air compressor, welder, hot tub, sauna, etc.


Installing Porcelain tile over linoleum floor

I agree with keshlam. All you need to do is screw it down. On a normal tile install you seal the the subfloor and screw down the backer-board so this would be no different, the linoleum is just sandwiched between the sub and the hardy. The only down fall is you cant really seal it.


Is a dryer vent tube being compressed like this up to code?

I can't answer whether it complies with code or not since that depends on where you are, but I doubt it would matter.

It's compressed some, but the volume is the same; it's just a different shape, and only slightly at that. Codes regarding airflow (and water flow) issues are mostly concerned with turns. A 90 degree angle will limit airflow whereas a larger radius bend would not, but the straight runs are rarely if ever a problem.


Replace and old outlet with GFCI where the GFCI won't fit in the existing box

Several ways to solve this.

First, actual GFCI protection does not require a ground wire. It's better to have both GFCI and ground.  But GFCI alone is still highly useful. For instance, GFCI is much better at stopping electrocutions, which is what the requirement is all about.

Extend the box

I don't like removing the box. It's delicate "dental" work and if you aren't experienced at it, you risk goring up the drywall, or worse, the old wires (and then you're really in trouble!) The original box was nailed at the joist before the drywall went up, and may be steel (and might even be grounded!) "After-drywall" retrofit boxes are plastic, hokey, weak, and clamp to the drywall... likely it'll flop around, or tear out of the wall when trying to pull a stubborn plug.  No thanks.  On the other hand, if you're a drywall god, then properly fit new-work boxes, but honestly I still prefer metal boxes.

So how do you make a box bigger?  Here's an unrelated question.  How do you attach surface conduit like Wiremold to an existing flush-mount box?  With an extension adapter box that brings it out an inch or two and has side ports for the Wiremold.  We only care about the first part.  It's not the normal parts source, but it works.

Put the GFCI protection elsewhere

GFCI, after all, is not a socket.  It is a system of protection that can protect any part of a circuit, including many sockets.   You only know it from the convenient GFCI + receptacle "combo" that you're used to seeing.  It comes in other forms also, such as a separate "box" or a breaker.

This will protect all of the circuit that is downstream from the GFCI.  However, this itself may be a problem.  If other parts of the circuit have any defects -- such as  crossed neutrals with other circuits, or a hard-wired device which in fact does have a ground fault -- the device will trip and refuse to reset.  Then a time-consuming search for defects will be necessary.

At the circuit breaker

The breaker version replaces the circuit breaker on that circuit, with a combo unit that is both a circuit breaker and a GFCI.  It provides GFCI protection for the entire circuit.  This can be expensive or impossible, depending on the model of service panel (breaker box) your home has.  For instance, GFCI breakers for Pushmatic are hard to get.

This requires opening up the breaker panel and replacing the breaker.  This is short work for an electrician.

Somewhere along the cable

It is possible to fit a junction box just outside the breaker panel, run the circuit's cable to this junction box, and fit a GFCI device at that location - then run a short cable to the breaker panel so the GFCI can get supply.   That allows you to use a GFCI module like a deadface (which you notice looks a lot like a GFCI+receptacle combo) -- or simply use the normal combo device (if Code allows; there are new rules about bathroom and kitchen receptacles not supplying sockets anywhere else.)

Since US circuits are generally wired as a chain, another option is to find a receptacle location upstream of the bathroom, and locate the GFCI device there, wiring it it protect the downstream parts of the circuit including the bathroom.

Labeling and Testing

If you GFCI protect another receptacle, you put a sticker on the receptacle that says GFCI Protected Outlet.  Receptacles that are GFCI protected are allowed to be 3-prong even if they're not grounded.

If that receptacle does not have a genuine ground, also label the receptacle No Equipment Ground.

The stickers are what the electrical inspector is looking for. They are not special, you can print them on a printer.

How do you do a serious test of a socket that is GFCI protected? With an external tester.  An external tester won't work on a socket with "no equipment ground" and that's not a defect, that's expected.  Plug it into a three prong adapter (cheater) and run a long length of wire from the grounding tab on the adapter, to somewhere you can get a solid ground.  E.G. the ground bonding wire exiting your service panel.


A quick search for "gabion retaining walls" can find you lots of information.

It found me this useful site:
https://www.gabion1.com/gabion-retaining-wall-designs/

As to your questions:

3 feet is pretty short for a retaining wall, the site recommends a simple 2:1 ratio, so a 3' wall would need to be at least 18 inches thick.  They also recommend slanting the wall slightly into the slope (~10 degrees).
Drainage is important, but depends a lot on location, you can run perforated drain pipe behind the wall to collection points and backfill above and around the pipe with gravel.
The back of the wall should be lined with geotextile fabric, this should also cover your drainage gravel to prevent clogging the drain pipe.
Gauge size is going to depend on how wide your mesh spacing is.  Larger spacing is going to need thicker wires.  looking at premade gabion boxes selling for 3 foot walls looks like wire size varies from 9 gauge to 4 gauge.


Pilot won't stay lit after replacing thermocouple

If their is a good flame on the thermocouple then it is a bad gas valve. Sometimes if the gas valve is just barely bad a hotter thermocouple will work for a short time but finding a hotter thermocouple is just hit and miss. I have seen people try 4 thermocouples and the fifth one worked then they claimed the other four were bad. The furnace of course stopped working a few months later after the thermocouple mellowed a little.


Should I use a hammer or a mallet when driving a chisel?

A purest would say to use a mallet made of wood or rolled hardened rawhide, but not rubber. I have a couple of sets and even my expensive ones have held up well using a regular 16 oz hammer.

But remember my motto: Every tool in my box is a hammer, except for the screwdrivers which are also chisels"


Can I cap off a gas line and leave it inside a closed joist space?

Either of the solutions you mention will work, but I recommend, if you have enough room, completely removing the elbow and installing a cap on the horizontal line in the floor. This way there are fewer connections, therefore fewer leak points. Of course, make sure you leak test any joints you move or work on.
There is nothing wrong with a gas line terminating in a floor, other than the difficulty of trying to use it for something in the future. But it's no more dangerous than having any other gas joint in the floor.
The ideal solution would be to find where that branch line begins, and cap it there. That way you remove all potential leaks after the origin point. However, I'm not sure that would be easy for you, as you stated that the basement is drywall-finished.
For your reference, here's a link to Minnesota's gas code. It says nothing about gas line terminations. It mentions that gas valves must be accessible, but that doesn't apply to your situation, as you will be removing the valve.
https://up.codes/viewer/minnesota/mn-fuel-gas-code-2015/chapter/4/gas-piping-installations#4


Can't reset Craftsman garage door opener

The most common cause of the door reopening is that one of the door limit switches is dirty or misadjusted. There are different switches to detect door travel and to sense the torque applied by the motor. The example below shows the switch that closes just before that door reaches the bottom of travel.

The two limit switches are at the end of the support rail. Try cleaning switch contacts, which get greasy from the rail lubricant.  This is easy to do since contacts are exposed on many Craftsman door openers (not a hazard, since only 24 VAC at low current is used). Use automobile brake spray cleaner or other nonflammable, non-toxic (or only mildly toxic), solvent. The contacts are just below the end of the wire. If the door is open, you can clean between the leaves of the contacts with a cotton applicator -- being sure to remove any lint.

If that doesn't resolve the issue, loosen the switch from the rail and adjust forward or backward until the door closes properly and stays shut.

The purpose of the bottom switch is to sense the last few cm of door travel. The torque-sensing switch in the motor housing reverses door-travel direction if an obstacle is encountered, such as a child's foot on the door sill. However, the door must close with enough force to make a tight seal, preventing bugs and drafts from entering, so the bottom limit switch disables motor reversal as the door touches the sill. If that switch fails to close, the door reacts as if an obstacle caused it to reverse... sometimes, after a delay of a few seconds.


Is there a trick to getting round HVAC duct pieces to fit together

You need a duct crimper like this to reduce the diameter of the end of one piece of duct:

Run the tool around the end of the duct so that you have multiple parallel crimps. That piece should slide right into the uncrimped piece, giving you a secure connection to tape.

If you don't want to spring for a dedicated tool, I've seen where people use needle-nosed pliers to do the crimping.


There are instance where this is possible and legal, such as bathroom vanity bar type lights with an integral and complete back plate. Other than that a box is absolutely mandatory.

Here is a good example. Imagine these fixtures flush against the wall.


Cannot remove the Delta kitchen faucet spigot from the base

Looks like all I needed to do was wait a little longer. The WD-40 did its job and there was lots of corrosion in the spigot at the bottom where the spigot ring met the spigot.


Found the answer to my own question, this seems like a great solution:

http://energy.gov/energysaver/cooling-whole-house-fan


This type of pipe and fitting is meant for burial and is not made to seal. The pop-together fittings just ensure the pipe stays together, not leak free.

If you want water tight sealing on the joints, you need to use PVC thinwall sewer/gutter drain pipe. It will have the same adapters so you can get a proper water-tight seal for the sump pump drain, a nice rectangular adapter for the downspout and glue-together slip fittings that can be cement welded for permanent leak-free operation.

Barring that, you could try popping the connection back apart, get some poly-foam backer rod, tack it into the corrugation that will be inside the connector with some silicone and see if you can make a water seal with that. It will only have to cover 2/3 of the circumference on the bottom side of the joint.


The kitchen sink is not vented well enough.

Does the sink have an air admittance valve? It could be clogged.

Otherwise it is just poor venting design. My bathroom sink does the same thing every time the dishwasher dumps.

It is not a major issue as long as you use the sink frequently it will refill the trap with water.

Good luck!


U.S. NEC on adding wires in a finished ceiling

I guess the first question would be if you have a engineered truss system or ceiling joists; they aren't the same thing (as I've learned).

Is there livable area on top of the garage or an attic/loft?

If they are just ceiling joists you can drill a hole right through the middle of the joists (don't cut out notches). I've done 3/4 inch holes with an auger bit; it would fit two 12/2 wires nicely. Try to keep the holes near the middle.