The flooring or base below the tile is as important as the tile itself. If the floor flexes the tiles will break or pop loose the grout will crumble and come out. I like to add a cement backer board both glued and screwed to the decking. In the few cases I have used Plywood I also glue and screw it. This only takes a few minutes and it makes the base solid. With a solid base the tile will last longer. Not only by eliminating the cracking but when well laid tile over a solid base has something dropped on there is less chance the tile will break compared to a poor job. 1/4" is way thin even glued and screwed it would not hold up compared to 1/2".  5/8" would be better if using plywood. The best option in my opinion is 1/2" cement board the tile & grout will stick to this better than wood. If you have the floors redone Insist on a construction adhesive or thin set be used with screws to create a solid base the few extra dollars it cost up front will stop problems like you have now from happening in the future.


How to reattach the "head" of a ground wire?

A crimp on eyelet or forked spade connector should do. There's nothing particular about a turntable ground wire like there might be for an antenna wire. I'd probably cut off the damaged end, re-strip with the appropriate size tool, and crimp to fresh wire. A locking pliers (Vice-Grip) works will in a pinch. So to speak.

It's also possible that the wire never had a connector. Some grounding lugs are designed to take a bare wire. Simply wrap the wire once around the lug, under any washer that's present, and snug it down lightly.


There would certainly be no problem shortening the flexible pipe some so that it does not collect water at its low point. Before cutting though make sure you comprehend the type of fitting used to join that pipe to the right side sink drain basket. (There may be a need to have new parts if a portion is not re-usable).

It is not possible to tell from your picture if there is a properly installed P-trap in the main drain line. Note that the P-trap also keeps some water to seal the drain off so that sewer gas does not come up into the sink. If that trap is installed incorrectly or of there is not a properly installed vent pipe on the down flow side of the trap there is a possibility that the bad smell that you are experiencing may not come from the overflow pipe.

So I would first suggest to shorten the overflow pipe and then clean/sanitize the drain system, including the overflow pipe. Then you can re-evaluate to see if there is still a bad odor in the drains. If so you would then need to have the apartment folks come back and correct the possible trap problems.


How can I remove flaking (likely lead based) paint from very rough, exterior stucco?

What is mandatory for contractors is suggested for homeowners.

Lead dust is what you want to avoid:

Manual scraping is much better than power.
Hand sanding is much better than power sanders
Wet wipe down is much better sweeping dry
HEPA vacs are much safer than ordinary shop vacs

Common sense stuff: N95 (or better, EPA suggests N or P 100) dust masking, hand washing, clothing changing, sealing debris and plastic tarping in (appropriately tough, 3 mil ) plastic bags


Put long wood boards about 2-3" wide across the bend, and glue and screw the whiteboard to the 3" wide boards to force the whiteboard to be flat. Squish the bent whiteboard against the 3" boards. I prefer to add screws because glue often fails in damp environments, or just over time.

Example: Curved whiteboard is on the left, straightening board on the right.


According to the Planning Portal, you need planning if the deck is over 300mm high or covers more than 50% of the garden (along with other structures).

(see here)

It also states that if your deck needs planning, it probably also needs Building Regs approval.


It would be easy to change the half switched outlet to always on (by replacing it), but not trivial to make the switch control a different outlet. There is a dedicated wire running from the switch to the top half of your outlet (see red wire below). To control a different outlet, you'd need to run that wire to it.


Wood laminate floor wont snap together can I just nail it down

Without more specific brand information my definitive answer is likely not. The reason being that most prefinished lock together flooring is designed to float. By float it should be able to expand and contract independent of the base layer or sub floor. Since you have at least two different types it is likely they will expand and contract at different rates. This may result in buckles in the floor or splits.


Are there any special tools, materials or techniques required for building a staircase door?

From this picture it hardly looks like the stairs "cuts the room in half". In fact it looks like the stairs hug all the way to one side of the room.

I would strongly discourage you from proceeding with the idea that you propose. If the horizontal trap door were closed in the event of a fire it may very well be just that...a trap the prevents you from escaping in a timely manner, if at all.


What can I replace an 8-spline handle with?

If the antique handles are not prohibitively expensive and you don't want to update, you may need to accept they are the correct part and use them.  We don't take shopping questions, so I haven't attempted an exhaustive search for you, but I would note that some sites have search tools based on stem shape or number of splines and you should attempt to check out at the least the major manufacturers in your area and the brand of your parts if you can identify it, possibly including a search of whether that company was absorbed into another.
Be thorough in your searching.  I recently had to identify a very cheap (sub $100) 10-15 year old shower set to find a replacement valve, and found that the manufacturer's website is designed with a front end to look like a tool to help you find replacement parts for existing product, but for products old enough to require replacement parts, they just redirect you to look at the surface fixtures (handles, escutcheon, spout, etc. of their high end ($500-$1200) products from years too recent to require replacement parts.  I found the correct, common, cheap replacement valve by identifying the valve assembly part number by manual visual comparison of replacement parts on google images.  Once I knew the relevant part numbers, finding the referenced valve was easy, but it was obvious the manufacturer would prefer replacement of the entire assembly, preferably with an expensive model.
That said, you could indeed use a dremel to grind a flat spot or wedge on the existing stem that would fit well with a suitably sized set screw handle.  It is even likely that if you did this carefully it would remain compatible with 8 spline handles.
Goal is to produce a keyed mechanical shape that holds the handle in place based on the position of the set screw rather than the force it is done up with.
Oh and if your issue with the antique parts is the way they look and you're looking at saving hundreds of dollars by not tearing open the wall and replacing the valve assembly, you could even contact some local machinists and see what they'd charge.  Prototyping is expensive, but not that expensive, especially if you can provide the design.  You haven't provided any example pictures, but if you have artistic skills and tools you could also try your hand at making one from a suitable mating piece and a variety of well documented hobby manufacture techniques.


Should I be concerned about wearing out the clutch when driving screws with my drill/driver?

This isn't something I would worry about at all. If you are a typically householder you don't use your driver 8 hours a day 5 days a week year after year after year. If you do, you should be buying a tool designed for professional use (which the DCD790 appears to be, judging by it's price).

I'm just a householder and I find drills last me at least 10 years. I still have all the drills I ever bought and they all still work (to some extent). On one of them I can't turn off the hammer-action after trying brute force removal of chuck (I broke it by severe misuse), but the clutch is fine. I bought a pro-grade replacement drill/driver (Bosch blue) at a similar price I paid 10 years ago for the non-pro one I broke.

The clutch on the driver is essential, I always dial it down to the lowest setting, then turn it up as needed. I'm pretty sure it is designed to be used and shouldn't wear out any faster than the gearbox or motor.


I have no idea what you're looking at, but no, the NEC does not demand a pipe that fat for a 200A feeder
I have absolutely nary a clue what sources you are looking at, but according to Chapter 9, Table 5A of the 2017 NEC, a 4/0 Al XHHW-2 compact stranded conductor takes up 176.3mm2 of fill.  Multiplying that by four, which is quite conservative as you will see, gives us 705.2mm2 of fill used by the entire feeder, whereas a 2", Schedule 80 PVC conduit has 742mm2 of usable fill area in it as per Chapter 9, Table 4 of the 2017 NEC.  So, clearly, a 2" conduit will suffice according to the NEC; you can upsize to 2.5" if you wish for ease of pulling, but no, you don't need to faff with reducers just to get your conduit to mate to your box.
Note that in all likelihood, you will not be running 4 4/0 wires for this.  The largest Mobile Home Feeder (MHF) quadruplex available is a 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0, and there's also a 4/0-4/0-2/0-4 configuration available; while one could get 4/0-4/0-4/0-4/0 URD, there's no reason to given that Code permits a smaller ground wire and cables with the smaller ground wire are readily available in URD and MHF styles.  If you're actually pulling individual wires, a typical bundle would use 4/0 XHHW-2 Al wires for the hots and neutral, with a 6AWG bare or green (THHN) copper grounding wire in the conduit.


Water from toilet tank goes straight down the drain?

It's most likely a bad flap, probably not seating correctly on the bottom of your tank. this can cause the water to constantly flow straight into your bowl and as the bowl fills up it will automatically drain. Try cleaning it or replacing it.


Even when I turn off the manual valve to back yard sprinkler system few sprikler heads are showing small valter flow?

If the manual shutoff is a gate valve, sediment builds up inside and keeps the wedge shaped gate from bottoming in its slot. A slight leakage is normal in these type valves. Remove the top, use a piece of aluminum bar (soft metal) to disturb the sediment and flush it out. Reassemble. It should leak less now that the gate wedges against the seats instead of bottoming out.

Globe type shutoff valves have a rubber/plastic washer that contacts a seat inside the valve. This type shuts off completely when closed unless the rubber washer or the seat have been damaged. Remove the top, feel around for damage on the seat and inspect the washer for cracking. Replace as necessary.

Quarter turn ball valves usually don't have issues with leakage unless there's been some frost damage that's disrupted the valve internally. Replace the valve.

If you're using the manual function on rubber diaphragm control valves for the shutoff, any number of things have gone wrong, dirt, diaphragm damage. Dismantle and rebuild after obtaining a repair kit.


How do I add a level gauge for 100 lb propane tank?

Put it on a scale.
The only thing that a pressure gauge tells you about a propane tank is its temperature, or that it's completely empty. The tank should have a "tare weight" marked on it (the empty weight) and if it weighs 100 lbs more than that, it's full.
Propane is transported as a liquified gas under pressure. So long as there is any liquid in the tank, pressure indicates tank temperature.
Weight will tell you how much has been used.
The traditional solution is TWO tanks, an indicator, and a valve that switches which tank is "primary" (and raises the indicator when it becomes empty) and which tank is "reserve" (which the valve draws from when the primary is empty.) You remove and refill the empty tank, and switch the valve (which causes the indicator to lower) to make the other tank "primary" until it's empty and you repeat.
Much larger fixed tanks typically have an internal float gauge to sense the liquid level, which is not terribly accurate, but generally good enough to tell you to call the truck and get it filled up before you run out. I've never seen one for small tanks.


How do I diagnose voltage fluctuations that affect my receiver?

How do you know that it's voltage fluctuations causing the problems and not RFI?  Consider adding RF chokes to your setup to minimize that possiblity.


How do I fix interior and exterior doors that do not close properly?

In both cases there is no doubt that the structure around both walls and thus the corresponding floors and foundation are moving around. Besides the door top to frame fit another real visible proof shows by the opening of the trim miter joint on the bedroom door. The crack above the door frame corner of the same door shows this too.

If this has been a progressive problem that gets steadily worse despite shorter term better/worse behavior that follows the seasons then you will be eventually faced with having to do some serious repair of the building structure. An interesting question to ask is if these two doors are being affected by the same part of the building movement?

Bedroom Door

The shortest term fix for the bedroom door is to remove the door from its frame by pulling the hinge pins. Then lay the door down flat on some saw horses so you can easily work on it. The idea is to cut a wedge shaped amount off the top of the door starting at about 1/8 to 3/16 inch at the latch side of the door and going down to nothing at the hinge side. The best way to cut this is with a circular saw using a carbide tipped blade. To make the cut straight you need to clamp a guide board across the door in an appropriate position so that the base of the saw slides against the guide board and places the blade right at the cut line of the wedge shaped cut that needs to be made. Before you make the cut wrap the whole cut area all around the door with wide masking tape that sticks down good onto the door surface. This tape will help to minimize the surface chipping of the door paint as you cut. After the cut is completed you would remove the tape and guide board. Hit the top edges of the door with some sandpaper to slightly round the cut edges and then you would be ready to remount the door.

This fix for the bedroom door will just be temporary because if the house structure continues to move it may be necessary to make this cut again. In the more extreme case the door latch will start to be misaligned with the striker plate (much like you are seeing with the front door) and more serious work would have to be done. In the case that the building structure is restored back to its "as built" position it may then be necessary to replace the door with a new one because of the big crack that would appear above the door where it has been cut off.

Front Door

For the front door the pictures reveal that the door is likely a steel clad door. This type of door is more difficult to cut off because it takes different tools to cut the door if required. So far it seems as if there is still clearance at the top of the door to let the door open and close so cutting may not be necessary for now. A temporary fix for the deadbolt striker plate is to remove part of the wood at the top in the door frame hole. This can be done with a course round wood rasp tool using short strokes into the hole. (Another scheme may be to use a Dremel tool with a wood cutter bit to grind out the top side of the hole). Then you would enlarge the hole in the striker plate at the top side to allow the dead bolt to slide more freely. The Dremel tool with a metal grinding stone installed could be used for this operation after you have reinstalled the strike plate onto the door frame. This would allow iterative grinding and checking for dead bolt fit.

Note that if the house movement becomes more it will likely that deadbolt may start to bind even more again and eventually either the striker plate would have to be moved up on the door frame or the top of the door will start to bind against the frame just like the bedroom door. At this point much more serious work would have to be done on the front door and its frame. If the building movement is fixed and the original door fit is restored you may want to replace the ground out striker plate so that it looks better.

Long Term

In the long run if the building moves some more and then stops on its own or if you get some work done to stop the progression of the movement then it may be desirable to do some repairs of these doors to restore things to a proper installation instead of the short term hacks described above. For both doors this would involve removing the doors from the frames then removing the door trim pieces. The door frame itself would then be removed and reset so that it is square again. In some cases, based upon the types of material involved it may be more desirable to fully replace the door frame and/or trim instead of re-setting the old frame. Often the old doors can often be re-used if they are in decent shape and have not been wedge cut. Otherwise new doors would have to be installed into the reset frames which would involve cutting the new door to length and fitting the hinges and locksets accordingly.


How do you install a floating floor on stairs?

I don't recommend doing what you're attempting to do but...

If you're covering 2x12 carpet treads, the 2x12 treads will need to be pulled off and have most of the overhang ripped off so you don't end up with a 2-1/2" or better overhang. Then reinstall the treads with liquid nails and screws or 16d nails.

From here, starting at the bottom, working towards the top, you'll need to secure stair nosing to the tread, possibly adding a return or two if you don't have boxed in treads. Now fill in between the riser and the back of the stair nosing you just installed. What you're thinking of doing is going to involve some work.

I've not done this with floating floor material, but I have done it with engineered planks as well as solid 3/4" prefinished hardwood.

Not sure of your location, but I can buy 4' oak stair treads for $25 each in Tennessee ( Lowe's ). 4' pine treads are a little cheaper, but the material is also softer. There's more work involved going this route and expense, but less safety concerns.

The reason my first sentence is, "I don't recommend this..." is because most stair nosing for laminate flooring is only 5/16" to 7/16" thick. If you drop something heavy on a stair nose or misstep, the nosing will most likely break.


Two-speed hot tub motor hums but doesn't run

Many single phase motors use a start capacitor. If it fails the motor can hum without starting. Sometimes they puff up and are obviously broke. If it appears OK visually then you will need to test it.

To test a capacitor you will need to disconnect it from the motor. If not use a digital multimeter set on resistance connected across the terminals of the capacitor. Initially it should read extremely low and the resistance should climb as the capacitor charges. Reversing your leads should yield the same result. If you get these results, the capacitor is good.

Otherwise a failed capacitor will read zero or infinite resistance.

If it is not the capacitor, it could be the pump motor is seized or the piping is plugged.

Good luck!


How do I finish off a silicone sealant like a professional?

You will have to remove it and reapply.
The trick is soap. Have a bowl of water and a bar of soap. Dip your finger in the water then rub it on the soap before using it to smoothe the silicone.


Look around (usually physically nearby) for a tripped GFCI - that will be the one. If the circuit breaker is well-labeled (unlikely, IMPE, but in the ideal world they all are) you'll know what other rooms to check, as they would be the ones on that same circuit breaker.

Typically will be the other side of a wall, another bathroom nearby, out in the hallway, etc.


Is there a standard height and depth for stairs?

The general rule (in the US) is 7-11 (a 7 inch rise and 11 inch run) (17.78cm-27.94cm).  More exactly, no more than 7 3/4 inches (19.7cm) for the riser (vertical) and a minimum of 10 inches (25.4cm) for the tread (horizontal or step).  You can find some more information here as well on other stair-related dimensions.

To calculate if the steps will be within the Building Codes specs :  2 times the step riser height + 1 tread width equals between 24 and 25 in inches (60.96cm and 63.5cm).

example:  (2 x 7.5") + 10 = 25 (2 x 19.05cm + 10 = 48.1cm)


Build a nice looking wooden cover and line the inside with 1/2 rigid foam insulation. Place it over the baseboard to insulate it.   There is no fire danger because it's hydronic.


Dado (+glue) or just screws (+glue) for painted MDF bookcase

There's many variables, many choices. You could just slam some screws into the shelf edges and it may be adequate. Pocket screws are a big improvement because you are no longer screwing into the panel edges. They work really well in cabinet face frames because there is plenty of room for screw embedment. For a bookcase, embedment is limited, so you should plan on more screws to get adequate strength.

You can get more strength by providing support along the back, but the gain is marginal since the front will remain unsupported. The extra cost and weight of a structural back are typically not worth the gain in strength for bookcases.

Another problem with simple butt joints is the glue strength contributes to much less or even none of the overall strength, depending on the type of glue used. This is because butt joints move quite a bit under load, eventually breaking either the glue itself or the bond. Dados greatly restrict the joint movement, allowing glue to contribute a significant portion of the strength. Not to mention the huge strength from the continuous edge support.

But dados require a lot more work. A good compromise is the placement of cleats under the shelf ends, combined with the edge or pocket screws you would typically have used anyway. Nail or screw gluing cleats makes a very strong joint to the side support. The cleat does not move, so the glue bond is significant. The cleat does not need to be very thick, most of the strength is simply the continuous edge support. The height of the cleat should be a good amount to maximize the glue bond area. Use enough fasteners to fully clamp the cleat as the glue sets. Such a cleat reduces the number of edge or pocket screws you need from enough to support everything to enough to hold the shelf in place on the cleat.

Cleats provide much more strength than screws alone, getting you much closer to dado strength. Yet the extra amount of work is minimal, especially considering you'll need fewer edge or pocket screws.


Are you sure these aren't part of your HVAC? If I had to guess, these are natural draft returns to the boiler room. If your heat comes through a grate in the floor, you need these.

Ok, you have radiators, so these probably are just fresh air intakes. Covering them or not is your prerogative.

Temporary solution: tape some card stock over the opening.

Semi-permanently: use a can of spray foam to totally fill the duct. You may need to get the grate open to stuff something in there, so the foam doesn't just drop down into the duct.

Permanently: remove the grates, and if necessary, remove or bash the remaining duct work into the wall with a hammer so that you can plaster over it, after having stuffed a piece of batt insulation into the duct.

Magnetic duct covers are another option.


How can I hang a heavy frame without making holes in the walls?

This may be thinking outside the box, but there are other ways to display a picture rather than "hanging" them. Hopefully these inspire some solutions...

Have you considered using some sort of display easel like the one above instead?

Google Search: Photo Display Easel

Compression poles are also an interesting way to hang things without causing damage:

Or if you are more industrious, you can construct some sort of free standing (or leaning) panel to hang the picture from. A nicely framed section of painted drywall or other type of surface can make a nice accessory for the room. It can be made free standing or designed to lean up against the wall without causing any permanent damage.


Proper method to send wiring through the roof?

The best way is to go around the roof, not through it. As soon as you have a hole, you are providing a path for water. You can seal it, but it's always going to be a weak spot. Additionally, if you ever need to redo the roof, it will be a pain to deal with the wires that are now in the way.

Better to come out of wall, then go up to the roof. You still have to seal the hole to keep water out, but you don't have to deal with water pooling/sitting on it. Use outdoor caulk (which is UV resistant) to seal the hole. You can also use expanding foam if it's big or you really want to keep the insulation factor up, but even that should be covered in caulk on the outside (because it's not UV resistant).

If you're using a bare wire, then you should also use a drip loop: this keeps water from running down the wire and driving into the hole.

If you use conduit, be sure to keep it all glued and sealed to keep water out. You can use a cable gland at the end where the cable comes out to keep it sealed.


My water softener has a setting for KCl (Potassium) / NaCl (Sodium), what does it do exactly?

It controls the weight of the salt that is used.  Potassium has a higher atomic weight than sodium, but they play the same role in the ion exchange reaction in the softener, so you need a greater weight of KCl to achieve the same level of softening.

Potassium chloride has a molecular weight of 74.55, whereas Sodium chloride has one of 58.44, so in theory you should need about 27% more KCl.  In practice, this article cites a study that suggests that less is needed:

  To achieve the exact equivalent capacity of an NaCl softener, the weight of KCl used would need to be increased by 13 percent at the 4 lb./ft.3 dosage level, but by only 2 percent at the 15 lb./ft.3 level.

If your softener is set to use NaCl, but you've added KCl, it'll be less effective than it should be.


How many times is mostly dependent on the quality of the paint and the particular color.

You want to do it enough times so that it matches the rolled-on areas.

There is no 'one way' to do this, but typically I cut in first, then roll, then touch up as needed.

I don't bother with tape. It's much faster, less messy, and (over time) more accurate to get the hang of using a good brush and cutting in manually. The tape rarely works as well as you want and adds a whole lot of time to the project.


No water pressure after new installation

If the sink sprayer has pressure, water is getting to the sink, through the sink valves, and to the redirection valve... so the question would be why it isn't getting to the main tap. Presumably something is blocking/plugging that path. If removing the aerator doesn't solve the problem (in which case you need to replace that aerator), and you're sure the tap has in fact been hooked up (check underneath; some snap-on connection systems may be self-sealing if left unconnected), the only thought I've got would be to disassemble and see if you can find the blockage.

Shower head: Is there also a tub spout, and does it work? What happens when you remove the head again and just try to run water through the pipe? Are you sure you haven't thrown the "stop water while I soap" valve?


The breakers should be specifically marked as to what wire types and sizes the terminals are compatible with; they also should be aluminum wiring compatible if the house is wired with aluminum wire. But it's always good to check.

You may need to remove the breakers to read the markings on them.

You should be aware (before you buy) that Tyco "COPALUM" is the other approved repair/remediation method. The CPSC website seems to be out of order today - when it comes back up, look for "Publication 516" from them.

http://www.te.com/catalog/cinf/en/c/10914/968

http://www.alcopstore.com/cpsc-approves-alumiconn/


Your problem isn't at all what you think it is

A GFI receptacle has "line" and "load" terminals -- power comes in on the "line" hot and neutral and is fed through the GFI's internal 'switch' (it's really closer to a circuit breaker, just set up to trip on current differential between hot and neutral instead of overcurrent) both to the outlets on the front and to the "load" terminals, which allows you to daisychain lights, outlets, etal off of the "load" terminals of a single GFI and have them all protected that way.

Furthermore, your friend is wrong when he says that two GFI's in series "cancel each other out" -- the configuration of two GFI's in series is legitimate and will not cause a hazard or damage them; it's simply indeterminate which one trips on a ground fault downstream of the second GFI.  Think of it as a game of quick-draw, just with tripping GFIs -- whichever one "wins" trips first and "shoots the circuit dead" so to speak.  (A similar problem arises with regular breakers and short circuits, as well.)

But there is a problem here

However, the configuration you describe is simply impossible without violating other parts of the electrical code -- the kitchen/dining room outlets must be on dedicated small-appliance branch circuits, and the bathroom and laundry room are required to be on their own circuits as well, yet the kitchen counter outlets, bathroom outlets, and laundry room outlets (new for 2014 it appears) all must be GFCI protected.  Point your property manager and electrician at sections 210.8 and 210.11(C) of the 2014 NEC...


How to remove old A/C piping in my house?

If the refrigerant has been removed, this is an easy task.  I'd assume the refrigerant was recovered when the old condensing unit was removed, but I only know what you've told us.

If there's no refrigerant in the lines, simply cut them out any way you like. Take the copper to the local scrap yard, and you can pay yourself for the work.

If the refrigerant is still in the lines, you'll have to have it recovered by an HVAC technician.


Can a hot tub be installed in a utility room?

Expensive homes have indoor pools all the time, however they also have rather sophisticated air ventilation systems.  Without it you would have uncontrolled mold accumulation. No matter how tight the lid is on the hot tub you are still going to introduce a lot of moisture into the house that other wise would not be there. I would recommend full exterior grade paint on in this newly and entirely finished utility room. Weatherproof exterior grade doors should be included in the room with no open air space shared by the main part of the house and this utility room. All adjoining spaces will need to be weatherproofed and caulked. No shared HVAC system components or duct work.  And last but not least you will want a fully controllable and robust air ventilation system that is sensitive to temperature and humidity levels.


How do I level a concrete basement floor with a 1" dip?

I have used Ardex K-15`to level floors. This product allows the addition of pea gravel for filling areas over 1/2" deep. use it with the pea gravel to fill the first 3/4" to 1/2" then use the Ardex K-15 without the pea gravel to top it off.
I guess I got to throw in the obligatory remark, I do not own stock in Ardex, nor do I work for the company. This is a product that I have used before that works supremely when used, following the directions. There is a primer that is used with it.

Edit 2-26-14

When using the primer, lay out how far the Ardex will need to go with a pencil mark to get your floor leveled. read the directions on the primer container for dilution. Spread the primer at least 1-2ft OVER the marks, when feathering, as you will see this will come in handy. This stuff feathers out to zero. Be patient with this. It settles flat over a period of time, 5-10 minutes, you may notice a "ledge" forming at the edge if too much is used. That is where the extra primer comes in.

I forgot to add, you will need to layout two marks, one for the pea gravel added as well. DO NOT get this one too high, 1/8" to 1/4" low so the regular mix will flow over the gravel mix, and not get "hung up". Let it set for 2 hours, then move on with the next step with out the gravel.

Get a container that will allow 2 bags to be mixed at a time. I have gotten it from a big box store, the kind with the rope handles the are about 20 gals +/-. You need it this big to keep the mixing from slinging it out all over the place. Cover the floor where you mix about an 8X8' area aside from where you will pour. The drips from the mixer will be difficult to scrape off after a time

Do not worry about using their mixing paddle, there are paddles that will work.

The first one is my preferred one to use, it works with a little in the bucket or 10 inches deep. the third one is second, but it is a glorified whisk, no angles on the blades to "pick up" mix off the bottom. The middle one is an excellent mixer, but only effective when mixing large amounts. The top hoop needs to be covered for this one to work well.

More later if you need it.


What is the best way to calculate the angle at which crown moulding should be cut?

Most crown molding is going to have to be cut flat on the table.  the angles are going to be 52 degrees on the angle, and 38 degrees on the bevel.  For your corners, you are going to want to cope them instead of trying to fit these angles.  Coping is the proper way of installing any type of trim (crown mold, base, shoe molding, cherry rail ect.)

How you would cope your corners is by getting your measurement to the wall.  You will be running the coped end into another piece that is cut square into the wall.  Your wall measurement for your coped piece is going to be the long point of your 52 degree angle, and the long point of your 38 degree bevel.  You will then take a coping saw and cut back into the piece cutting along the short edge of your bevel cut.  Following the pattern of your molding.  A good technique to installing to ensure a tight fit is to:

First make sure your corner fits well into the other piece.
After you have to corner matched nail the molding about 4-5 feet back from the corner to hold the piece up for you.  Also, leave your square cut loose as well.  This way you can manuver both pieces to fit right incase the corner is out of square.
Match your corner and nail where it fits snug.
Nail in the middle of you first nail and the corner. If there is any slack, push the middle in and nail.  This will help seat your corners and give you a nice fluid look.

If you choose to try to angle you corners you are going to spend all day trying to get them right.  It will not look good, and you will waste a lot of time.  With coping you can get away with being a degree or two off without it opening up at the base or top of your corners.

I have done trim carpentry for 8 years and this is the best way to put up your molding.  It will look great, and you will not have to worry as much about the expansion/contraction of your molding due to season changes.  Also another tip.  On your long runs, make sure you bevel the ends together when joining two pieces in the middle.  Do not ever but up square ends when installing any type of trim.  Happy DIY 


Installed Ceiling Fan With a Remote And Think I Made a Mistake

It sounds like you figured everything out.  I agree their documents should be better (MUCH better) and identify the antenna somehow, use pink or purple for the antenna wire, not strip the end.

Now the part I think you already know but were hoping not to hear:

You should disconnect the antenna from the neutrals.


The math says that you should replace the water heater - especially if you can install yourself.

In my opinion the water heater should be sized for the house - how many faucets/bathrooms?, not how many people are currently living in it.

If you are looking to downsize, save money, be green... I would go tankless.  Here is an example.  Also Tester makes a good point going natural gas.  If you have gas chances are it runs by your current heater so it might be worth looking into.

Tankless water heater calculator

Sizing a water heater


If you find out that the yellow cable is hot and switched only by a breaker, you can feed the light from it. Just disconnect the existing light and switch wire from the hot and neutral at the light fixture box. Cap them and tuck them away. Remove any black tape from the switch white wire and connect it to the white wire from the light fixture. Connect the black switch wire to the black light fixture wire. At the switch location, connect the feed neutral to the white wire from the light fixture box and remove any black tape, connect the feed black to the line side on the switch and the remaining black to the load side. With this setup, you can install your smart switch. Connect all grounds.

You have to verify the yellow cable source and voltage before doing any of this.


You  can do mud jacking, or poly jacking underneath the low side - it will raise it a little might cost you about $1K could be less but I doubt it. You can call for a free estimate from a local contractor. Maybe they only charge you $500.


Is there a name for right angle braces / brackets that have enlarged holes for adjustments?

It's called an angle shrinkage. Or at least, the particular type which allows expansion in two directions is.

Products may also be called angle stretcher plates.


The Polypipe parts with red and blue taps look like heating manifolds (do you have underfloor heating?) and are not likely to be the stop tap.

You'll have to follow the two pipes to the right in the under-sink photo. One of those (the one that feeds the cold tap) will be fed from the stop tap. It will probably also connect a cold feed to the boiler and to any other sinks, bath, or shower too.

Do you have a bath? (It could be under there).

Is your flat on the ground floor or an upper floor?

Edit to add (one of your photos wasn't loading initially)... The stop tap is the one that has been painted white, next to the earth bonding (green and yellow wire) connection.

Also...For future reference, the black taps are on the filling loop for your boiler. If the pressure gauge shows too low pressure in the system, you'll need to let more water in to the required operating pressure.


Why is my hardwood splitting apart and how do I fix it?

They say that wood never sleeps.

Seasonal fluctuations in relative humidity cause wood to expand and contract. Winter is traditionally the dry season, which causes wood to shrink. Similarly, summer is typically more humid, which causes expansion.

This is absolutely positively not an infestation of any type.

Not sure why this wouldn't have happened last year, but local weather or changes to your humidifier may have been related.

Short version: don't worry about it.


Problem solved! If you notice there is a little copper wire on the other side of the yellow terminal that I thought was the yellow wire wrapping around but nope, that's the broken off part of red so to solve my issue I had to connect red to Y next to that yellow wire.

Just wanted to post an answer in case anyone else makes this mistake, apparently red wires can connect to non-red things... I was naive and ignorant.


What kind of Extruded Aluminum sections to replace main wooden frame on this DIY project?

Edit: You are looking for a 2x6 aluminum tube. This should be pretty much have the same physical properties as a pine 2x6 (which looks like what you have in the lower picture). In the upper picture, it looks like two 2x2s that are sandwiched together. I would think that a single 2x4 tube would be fine to replace that, unless it needs that sandwich arrangement.

Edit2: I bars are much more commonly used in metal working (for providing load bearing support). So, I found some load calculations for I beams, and did a little physics (maybe I should have pursued a physics career). It looks like the beams need to support about 425 lbs. See the pic below.

Edit- After some debate, I have added the calculation for torque, using 80kgs (only 176.4 lbs) for the weight. The torque is most simply and accurately found by adding the two forces (pulling hands and pushing feet) which would be separated by about 1 ft from a hypothetical pivot point (necessary for torque calculations). The formula for torque (mentioned in comments/discussion below) is T=FxLxSinA. The image below provides a clear description of the calculation. Please note that rounding errors involved with multiple calculations are never better than an elegant approach. The elegant approach is to realize that the hands and feet are 2 ft apart, so the length to the pivot is 1 ft, and the total torque (force) is (120kg+120kg)∙ft. Torque is (pretty much always) expressed in either english (529.2ft∙lb) or metric (717N∙M)... not met-lish (240kg∙ft); but it really doesn't matter, because it's the same number. Nobody can disagree with math. Whether or not torque is relevant to your search for aluminum beams is more of an opinion... but I'm pretty sure that most engineers would agree that the load bearing specifications for aluminum beams are the most suitable criterion for your project because the torque-force will necessarly be converted to the push and pull (the perpendicular, load bearing) force. So the force on the beams (for a 200 lb person) would be about 300 lbs through the narrowest part (the most important consideration for beam failure)... but the force on the bars (important, in my humbe opinion) could be a bit more (like 424 lbs).


How to access Honeywell wireless door/window sensor data?

use the honeywell receiver perhaps?

https://www.security.honeywell.com/product-repository/5881enhc


How do I wire up a 4-wire dimmer switch when I only have two 2 wires from the wall?

Not sure what make and model dimmer you're trying to install, so I'll describe a common installation. Wire colors could vary, depending on manufacturer.

Black is the common terminal, and is attached to the ungrounded (hot) conductor feeding the switch.
Red is the switched lead (or a traveler in a 3-way installation), and is attached to the switched hot going to the light.
Red with white is a traveler, used for 3-way installations. In your situation, you'll just cap this one off.
Green is ground,  and is attached to the grounding conductor.

From Lutron Luméa® Installation Guide

If you don't have grounding conductors in your home, you could install a GFCI breaker and you'll be code compliant.

Lutron devices typically have a red and a red/white stripped wire, whereas Leviton has two red wires.


Do I need an electrician to install a whole house surge protector?

It partially depends on your competency with electrical work, and what kind of surge protector you get. There are two basic models I know about:

Square-D makes a module that mounts the same way as a standard QO breaker in the panel: http://surgelogic.com/residential/surgebreaker-secondary-surge-arresters/. It is very easy to hook up, you plug it in just like a breaker, and simply run the one line to ground. (This is a "Type 2" device). There are other companies that make these as well, be sure to get one that can fit in your panel (each company does it differently).
There are also several types of external boxes which go beside the main panel, and hook up to a 220V circuit. These are possibly a bit harder to install (you need to run conduit typically), but may offer better protection and sometimes also have surge protection for phone lines and cable. These come in both Type 1 and Type 2.

If you're comfortable opening the panel and installing a new breaker, then really either of these methods is okay, though the first is definitely easier.

The "type" I referenced above boils down to (and this is new to me, correct me if I get it wrong):

Type 1 are designed for direct lightning strikes, though you may need a lighting protection system (rod) to take advantage of it.
Type 2 are designed for indirect lightning strikes.

Note, having this doesn't mean you don't need surge protection on individual devices. It certainly takes a way a lot of the risk, but it doesn't eliminate it. For expensive items or things that are very sensitive (eg, computer, home entertainment system) it's worthwhile to put a powerbar-style surge protector right at the equipment).


Do I need an expansion gap around concrete laid inside a building

Concrete has about the same expansion rate due to temperature as steel [this is why reinforced concrete does not break apart from thermal stress]. A stone walls are likely have another coefficient of thermal expansion (and perhaps some other constraints).

It is sound practice to isolate  slabs from existing structures absent a compelling reason to tie them together. A compelling reason would be structural necessity. Apathy is at the other end of the scale. Other reasons, may fall in between but generally toward the non-compelling end.


What size is the fuse on a watermaster/orbit sprinkler timer box? Blinking red

OK I tried some out from home depot and "5mm by 20mm 1A fast burn" was the closest they stock and seemed to work OK for me.
Appears the canonical replacement is "orbit 57003" but they're sometimes tricky to find/more expensive.  Might be able to find some equivalents online as well.


How do I bleed a noisy radiant heat system?

I ended up not having drain or replace anything. Just loosening the shrader valve cap a little let all the air out and the system is working normally again. Thanks for your help.


How can I increase the height of a driveway edge at the gutter?

Rubber coating won't provide enough height to be effective. You need at least an inch or two to change the course of a stream.
I think I'd look at a bolt-down speed bump, and I'd put foam "sill seal" underneath it to be sure to get a good seal against the driveway.


How can I rebuild/repair/replace this garden faucet

Check at a hardware store. They often sell a bag of faucet washers of a mix of sizes that can be used to repair your faucet. You pick out the one from the kit that suits your faucet.

Sometimes the hardware store will have a whole section of individual faucet repair parts. Take the faucet washer and stem seal with you to match them up with new parts.

On the other hand the garden faucets probably are available in only so many styles. You could take a picture of your existing leaky faucet and take it along with you to the hardware store or other big box type store and purchase a new one of the same or very similar style. Then take it apart to redeploy the rubber parts from it for use in your old faucet.

Added Information:

I have actually repaired a faucet that was an outdoor spigot type in a unique way. It's valve stem piece was very corroded and logically led to the conclusion to replace the whole faucet. Unfortunately I found that the faucet was soldered onto a pipe inside the wall behind a stucco exterior and no direct access from the inside of the wall either. I took a sharp focused picture of the faucet and traveled off to the big box store and happened to find a full new faucet that was identical in every way to the old faucet. I was able to re-use the stem, top portion of the faucet body and the packing nut from the new faucet on the old lower portion faucet body and restore to like new performance without having to break any stucco or tear down a blind inside wall.


From what you are describing you are using the wrong drill bit or not applying sufficient pressure.

Make sure you have the right # drill bit for the screws. The wrong bit will strip the heads making it difficult to extract or to drive the screws further in.

If you are using the right drill bit, stand directly over the screw and apply sufficient pressure when drilling.

I would find it hard to believe that all the heads are stripped, but if the majority are stripped, my advise would be to get a screw extractor and remove the troublesome screws.

Work with a friend or family member, 1 with a drill bit, the other with the extractor, systematically go down the deck and you'll be done in no time.


Can new construction recessed lights be installed in inaccessible ceilings?

Yes -- the junction box of the recessed light must be accessible after installation per the design of the recessed light. The typical design I have seen to accomplish this is that the recessed light's "can" is attached to the recessed light's junction box by flexible cable. The "can" may then be pulled down after installation through the opening in the drywall to allow access to the junction box.

Here are some before and after pictures of a new construction recessed light I have left over from my remodel.


Will a window insulation kit help with heat loss in the winter?

It's tough to say if it will help you in your specific situation, and if so how much. Without getting into that specific kit you linked, those types of products can't hurt anything, so you don't lose much by trying it out. But whether it will make an impact on your heat loss depends on a few factors - the quality of the product, how well it's applied, and most importantly, where you are losing heat.

If all your heat loss is through an under-insulated attic, shoring up the window insulation won't do anything to affect it. On the other hand, if the windows are the main source of heat loss, attempting to insulate them better should improve things, at least a little bit.

Looking for light around windows will only show the most egregious drafts, which should be obvious anyway. Most drafts are due to poor insulation behind the trim, which won't show light around the windows. You can take a lit candle and move it slowly around the windows, looking for any deflection in the flame indicating a draft (this works best on windy days). If you see some indications of drafts, then those window insulation kits should help, although pulling off the trim and spraying expanding foam insulation is the best fix.


Reach up and tap the opaque lens cover. If it seems like it's not integrated into the rest of the housing, then you should be able to move it out of the way.

If it looks like it's one piece, then try lightly tugging on the whole thing, see if there's a spring loaded catch or retaining spring.


Framing long walls in sections and keeping 16" OC Layout

I think it may help to know why 16" OC is so important and the main reason is that drywall and other sheathing comes in 4x8 sheets.  For you to properly hang drywall, you must have a stud where ever two sheets will join up.  So, as long as you have at least 3/4" of stud on either side of every 16" space, you'll be ok.

Say you make 16' wall sections... The first stud after the edge should be centered 16" from the edge of the wall - not the center of the edge stud.  This means that where the two wall sections join, the space between the two edge studs will fall directly on a 16" boundary and that's fine for joining sheathing or drywall.  Note that you should probably plan to have the sheathing joints not line up with the wall joints, but that can be handled pretty easily.

||           ||         ||||         ||          ||
||           ||         ||||         ||          ||
||           ||         ||||         ||          ||
-------------------------- --------------------------
    14.5"        13.75"       13.75"      14.5"
    (Gap)

Added better diagram - you can see that if you follow this pattern, the 16" OC will continue from wall to wall.  The only issue is that where the walls join, you will have a joint between two studs that falls exactly on the 16" mark, but this is fine for drywall and sheathing.  As the other answer mentions, these doubled-up studs might cause issues for insulation batts or other items that assume a 14.5" gap, but if you want doubled studs to make "complete" wall sections, that's what you have to do.


If you believe everything you read on the innerwebs (which you shouldn't!!!), yes:

https://partsdr.com/part/w10381562-door-boot-seal/#model-WFW9151YW00


Turn off all power before starting any work. OK switch B can remain in place but you have to determine which of the two orange travelers is hot when switch B is in the top (ON) position, then disconnect and tape the other orange wire. Remove switch A and wire nut the yellow wire to the hot orange that you did not disconnect from the other switch. Tape the other orange. You'll need to get the correct cover plate for switch A to cover up the unused gang.
It's always a good idea to put a note in each of the two boxes you worked in describing what you did for future reference. It might just help you, or a new owner, in the future.


about the saying "neutral does not carry current"

That saying is wrong.  It's dead wrong.  The people saying it are idiots. Or you misunderstood.

Imagine if you found an SE post that started out "People often say 'humans do not contain blood'. I think that's a false statement."  It's like that.

Neutral certainly does carry current.  In a single-phase, 2-wire circuit with neutral, neutral carries exactly the same amount of current as the hot.   Neutral is the normal current return.

Now in split-phase or 3-phase where 2+ hots and neutral are brought along, it's likely most of the load will be phase to phase, with neutral carrying only imbalance current.  In multi-wire branch circuits, all loads are phase-neutral and neutral acts as a broker to try to return current via another load rather than bringing it back to the panel itself. But neutral is still a normal and legitimate carrier of current, and it counts.

A great deal of work is done to assure that Equipment Safety Ground is at roughly the same voltage as the dirt surrounding your house.  That way if you are touching a grounded receptacle while standing on your wet grass in your bare feet, nothing happens.

We also make very strong effort to make neutral reasonably close to ground potential.  Nobody cares if neutral is 7.3 volts away from the dirt in your lawn. We just want it to be close enough to be safe.

It's true if you are standing barefoot on your lawn and you touch neutral, you shouldn't be shocked. But that's not the main reason to do it.  The main reason is to assure that your "hot" wires are only 120V from the dirt in your lawn.  Consider the alternative.  Imagine some leakage in the transformer caused your supply to float 2400V above where it should be: Hot 1 would be 2160V from earth, neutral would be 2400V from earth and hot 2 would be 2640V from earth.  Now suddenly, touching any wire with your bare feet would be instantly lethal.

By providing a firm neutral-ground bond, in one place, we assure that neutral will be near 0V from earth, and the hots won't be terribly far away either.

Picking any supply wire and bonding it to earth in this way defines that wire as neutral.  Neutral need not be "in the middle".


I have CITY water. When I turn on my garden hose I have plenty of pressure, but after a few seconds the pressure drops substantially only outside

There is a substantial restriction somewhere - partly-closed valve, over-soldered fitting, something like that. Your 15 seconds or so of good pressure is probably from the hose itself storing water - the slow trickle past the restriction gradually pressurizes the hose to full line pressure - as soon as you start using water, the hose contracts, and when fully contracted you are back to the flow past the restriction.

Check any valves on the line to the hose fitting, first. If it is an over-soldered fitting, those are somewhat of a pain to find, as you basically have to disassemble the pipe to look for them.


Do I need to repair this hole in the bottom flange of my I-joist?

Yes some repair is probably needed, contact the supplier for guidance.


Simply put, you have a true short in the cabling someplace. To solve your problem:  First of all be sure you are working with the affected outlets and fixtures and don't accidentally pull something out that is still powered up.  Then you should pull out all the affected outlets and fixtures and look for any shorts. If none found, take pictures of each one BEFORE. Then disconnect everything including the connection to the breaker.  Be sure that you aren't testing anything live by testing for voltage first.  Then start testing with a DMM on the ohm setting.  You should have near infinite resistance across the white and black in every case. If you find a short (very little resistance), you should be able to find the "other end" of the cable because there should be another pair with low resistance.   Then, hooray, you found the cable with the short. What you do from there depends completely on where that cable runs, hopefully not to difficult a replacement.   It would be good though, to identify the cause of the short. It's very unusual for the cable itself to be compromised.
But rodent damage can do it:  I had a similar situation in my previous house.  Some outlets and lights stopped working and another circuit started tripping breakers with nothing plugged into it. The affected outlets were on a wall shared with an attached garage. So I started pulling off sheetrock and this is what I found!


It took me a wile to find one but it is a double loop locked. This will do what you want, cannot be locked and can be opened from both sides.


How to polish a metal flooring like the one in this image?

The product is known as Aluminum Diamond Plate.

Sadly it is going to take some work and if you can, rent a commercial floor buffer, or expect to spend a lot of hours and your hands and knees. Which would still require at least a hand held buffer. (Choice of hand held or commercial floor buffer should be based on square footage and accessibility.)

Taking Care of Aluminum Diamond Plate
Like any other type of high-use metal, it is important to take good care of your aluminum diamond plate to help keeping it looking and working great. Because it is used for such demanding purposes, chances are good that it will get quite dirty on a regular basis. Below is a basic guide on how to clean aluminum diamond plate.

Step One: Cleansers
Do not ever use harsh detergents or floor soap to clean diamond plate. Don’t allow water or cleaning products to sit on the surface for a long period of time. Harsh chemicals will eventually destroy the finish, as will acid-based cleansers, detergents and compounds, when used improperly. Non-detergent car wash soaps are your best choice. Wash and then rinse thoroughly right away to prevent staining, water spots, blemishes or etching on the surface.

Step Two: Protection
A protective coat of wax will help to keep your diamond plate looking new, regardless of whether it is aluminum, steel or stainless steel. Regular waxing will help to preserve the diamond plate and reduce the amount of time required to clean it on a regular basis. Start with clean diamond plate and evaluate the condition of the aluminum diamond plate to see how much wax and correction needs to be done to get it looking shiny and new.

Step Three: Correction
In some cases, it takes more than clean diamond plate and some wax to get your metal looking new. You might need to use specialized metal cleaners or polishes, as well as a buffer to get it back to its original shine. Buffing and polishing will take a lot of time and effort, so make sure you set aside enough time to get the job done. You don’t want to leave any cleaners or polish on the metal longer than the manufacturer’s recommendations suggest.

Preventative Maintenance for Aluminum, Steel and Stainless Steel Diamond Plate
Sometimes the best way to clean diamond plate is to never really let it get out of hand in the first place. The next part of our guide to proper care and maintenance of diamond plate is a series of tips that you can take that will help to reduce the amount of time required to clean and care for the metal on a regular basis. Establishing good habits like these will help you to take even better care of your aluminum diamond plate than ever before.

More can be read here: http://midcitysteel.com/proper-care-maintenance-of-aluminum-diamond-plate/

Here is a link to a product called Marine 31. It has good reviews and great results. https://www.amazon.com/Marine-31-Heavy-Cut-Oxidation-Cleaner/dp/B00CMHJMVM

Before:

After:


Tap into an Electrical Wire Under a Raised Cottage

Several issues at play here:

First off, everything will depend on the type of wire you are talking
about. If it is UF (Underground Feeder) cable, it might be perfectly
legal. If it is indoor rated NM (Non-Metallic) cable, a.k.a. "Romex",
it is already not to code, so any connection you decide on will not
bring it up to code anyway. To be "proper" in that case means redoing
the entire run.
"Splice" by the way implies it has been cut in two and you want to
re-join the cut ends. Did you mean you want to TAP into it and have 3
wires now?
Assuming it is stapled to the joist the chances that you have enough
slack to be able to cut into it and add a tap line are slim, because
you need extra wire to make the connections with anything like "wire
nuts". What you could do (if you have the right tools) is to put
"ring-tongue crimp lugs" on the ends of each wire then use screws,
nuts and lock washers to attach the rings together, then tape over
them with a layer of varnished cambric tape, then electrical tape
over that.
All of this should be done in a weather tight electrical box with a
gasketed cover. The thing is, the threaded holes into and out of that
box where the cables need to pass through would also need to be
sealed. Here's where the type of wire makes a difference. If it is UF
cable, they make "UF Cable Seals" (search that term) that you can buy at supply houses.
They are a fitting that will thread into the box openings, then the
cable is run through a rubber grommet that is then squeezed down to
seal around the cable to make a watertight seal. But nobody makes a
seal fitting to fit around NM, because, again, this is not something
that would be done legally, so they don't make parts to do it. If you
want to rig up something non-code compliant anyway, you could try using the UF cable seals anyway, then to make sure, seal around the
wires with silicone sealer.


How to determine if hardwoods are under cabinets?

If it is an older house with existing hardwood floors, there is a terrific chance of the floor going under the cabs, If there is laminate flooring, The chances are nil it goes under.

On older homes, with hardwood floors if the cabinets are removed, they may need to be refinished anyway since the floors usually are never sanded and stained under the cabinets, but it beats a tie in and refinish. On newer homes, I have seen cabinets placed on the subfloor or on plywood to raise them up, and the flooring run to the cabinets.

With laminate floors, if you can find the flooring still, you will need to pull a piece to match it up by. This will have to be done anyway to some degree to tie in the new with the old, if that is what you have. You could try to patch the immediate area, which I do not recommend. I would pull up the flooring to the affected area and relay the new to recover the cabinet's foot print.


Why is my fridge causing my lights to dim?

I agree with Aviator, the electrician is the safest bet. From your description though, it sounds like the Compressor motor on the fridge is either seizing up or has a short in the motor winding. Why it is not tripping breakers or blowing fuses is a concern worth looking into. A qualified electrician will be able to put an amp meter on the Fridge and measure how much current draw there is and determine if it is pulling too much.
Only two general possibilities really exist. either the Fridge is pulling too much, or your panel is not providing enough. or the two combined (okay, 3 possibilities)...


Are there any advantages to using s-clips for attaching a table top instead of a right angle bracket?

The clips that are used in the nightstand in the video are so the solid wood top can move. If the top is secured too tightly and when seasonal movement occurs it will crack. The slots in the apron that the video shows allows for the movement. The slots don't have to be all the way through, it just as easy while machining the wood.

There are other ways to fasten tops and still allow movement, slotted screw holes and there are washers that look like there are two together and look like a figure 8. One side attaches to the apron, the other to the table top. The clips in the video are available online, as are the ones illustrated below.


Why won't the fan run independently of the air conditioner?

I would first try touching the R and G together at the thermostat board (the wires coming out of the wall) and seeing if the fan turns on.  If it does, then all the wiring is correct.  If it doesn't, then I would try to do the same thing with two short wires that have been attached to the thermostat control board R and G terminals.  If it still doesn't, then the problem is in the furnace.  If it does, then you have a loss of continuity somewhere between your thermostat and your furnace on the G wire (because the heat and A/C work, so the R works).  I don't have a Nest myself, but I know that not all thermostat systems make it obvious how to run the fan without cooling or heating.


Can you wire a T12 fluorescent Strip light and a T8 fluorescent strip light together?

Those aren't strip lights; that's something else.

If you like your old fixtures, or don't want to deal with the ugliness of a swap, keep them.  Every part of a fluorescent fixture is serviceable.  If the ballasts are fried, you can just do a ballast swap.  You can also convert to LED.  All within the old fixture.

The fixture is the expensive part, so swapping ballast or going LED will be the cheapest repair, and lets you keep the quality fixture instead of dealing with the absolute junk fixtures I see in big-box these days at the $20-30 price point.

If you want to switch to T8, the T12 and T8 tubes are physically compatible, so T8 tubes will fit in a T12 fixture. They are not electrically compatible, so you must change the ballast to T8.

You can also get LED "tubes" that snap into T12 or T8 sockets.  Get ballast-bypass (direct wire) types which are fed from opposite ends of the tube.  Then rewire your fixture to bypass the ballast.

The 4' and 2' fixtures will be compatible, they share only 120v mains power and have separate ballasts.


Duraslate will get you a roofing system, so stick to Duroslate if you want chalkboards.

[walmart, amazon and staples all claim to have those; others do as well.]

Adjusting light positioning, type (possibly adding diffusers) and camera angle on the whiteboard might be simpler/cheaper/faster. Not to mention less dusty.

The paint works fine if done right and can be applied to a piece of hardboard or plywood or even one side of your melamine board (might need to scuff sand first) rather than to the wall. Use a roller for best results.

Surplus chalkboards are dirt-common at every school remodeling project and presumably would be found in at least some architectural reuse (or salvage) facilities.


The "click" is the exact same behavior that I had last month - caused by a blown heating element. It was difficult for me to remove and replace, but easy enough to find both ends (and I'm sure this varies based on your model) and do a continuity test on it. Mine didn't conduct, so it was clear that was the problem.


Wiring for 30amp RV plug from 50amp (14-50R) outlet

Sophie's choice: One way, you fry half the appliances in the RV... The other way, you electrify the chassis of the RV.  Whoops!    The only other possibility with a 6/2 cable is to hook up neutral and ground properly, then not hook up one of the hot wires, but this too is bad (just less destructively).
The only way to support a 14-50 with 6/2 is to add a 12 KVA transformer to the mix.
But why bother? You don't benefit from a 14-50. You benefit from a TT30, which is the plug your RV actually does have.
That's a much simpler matter.

Change the 50A 2-pole breaker to a 30A 2-pole* breaker.

Move the white wire from the breaker to the neutral bar.   Very important!

Throw the NEMA 14-50 recep on the shelf. You will not be using it today.

Install a TT30 receptacle.

Enjoy your RV.

Now, you may find the breaker or recep will not accept a #6 wire.  In that case you'll need to pigtail a #10 wire onto it. The big blue wire nuts should suffice. Crank Hard.  No... HARD!

* Mind you, you don't actually need a 2-pole breaker, but you do need to fill the empty space, so a 2-pole breaker takes care of that.  Also, 30A 1-pole breakers are essentially useless for any purpose but TT30 RV outlets. 30A 2-pole breakers are used for all sorts of things.


Should my outdoor spigot be attached to the foundation?

No. It isn't necessarily supposed to be attached to or bored through the foundation. Most spigots mount adjacent to where the plumbing travels through the joist cavity. It's simpler from a construction standpoint and puts the spigot at a more usable level. If that isn't an option due to the structure's layout, it could pass through the foundation but should be insulated with a foam sleeve and kept out of contact with the concrete.

That said, you sometimes see a trim block behind the faucet instead of just squished siding. With vinyl siding, though, economy often wins the day.


How to safely route a wide groove in 2x2?

I highly recommend using a pusher and gloves for this project. There are lots of "brands" you can choose from, or you can use another board to do it. You only have one set of fingers though, and keeping them safe is more important than any project.

If you will note in the above picture, the board is being pushed forward and into the fence. This is an excellent way to get an even cut and retain control of the board.
If you don't have a fence, you can clamp another board to the table and that will work almost as well
Once you have lined up and completed your first cut, move your fence back from the cutter 1/8th of an inch, and cut again. Then rotate your board 180° and cut again.

Hope this helps!


Mesh tape between wall and concrete substrate

Nope. Don't tape the floor to the wall anywhere.

Install the floor first and then install the wall tile.


Removing attic fan thermostat - how to terminate 3-wire

Everything on the left side of the box is wrong, this isn't a simple matter of what to connect together. I don't know if it was the roofers that messed it up of if it was wrong to start with. However all conductors must be inside sheathing [or conduit or a box] at all times, meaning that the cable sheathing must come slightly inside the box and the cable clamped at the entrance or within 6 inches of the entrance.
Second there aren't enough conductors on the left to do anything.
Keep them all disconnected and capped separately.

To solve the lamp issue start with the lamp fixture and switch, test the wires for voltage, if it has power change the bulb if no power trace it back until you find power. This requires a meter of course, no practical way around that.


Floors and walls in unheated garage/workshop

If the concrete brick block floor is dry you might be able to put a floating floor on it a nice thick pad for insulation the floor needs to be flat. There are many different brands and many snap together, one of the first of these I did back in 2000 is still in good shape and we have had 3 dogs.
The walls could be covered with furring strips and Sheetrock attached to the strips, then finished and painted. You said no heat so I would not waste $ on insulation. Both projects are DIY for even a new person and a garage is a good space to start and build your skills.


Is it acceptable to use a cut edge against a tapered edge at a drywall joint?

Almost any larger drywall job will have a few odd cases like that. Good tapers run their butt joints 18" wide or more as a rule. Hiding a tape overlay in that width is not difficult. Use a wide knife or trowel, but keep things thin. Remember that sanding is really only intended to knock down tiny imperfections, not shape the wall.


I would try a construction glue in a caulking-gun

Random example from Internet, any product with same characteristics will do

  Waterproof: Can be used in interior or exterior applications
  Versatile: For use on wood, metal, plastic, foam, mirror, concrete and brick

I've used a similar sort of adhesive to attach small plastic signs to rough granite, with mixed success. Some lessons -

You need the surfaces to be clean, dry and free from dust or loose debris.
If the back of the sign is very smooth, it might be worth experimenting with roughening it with sandpaper. This may depend on the specifiic adhesive.
When fixing signs on a vertical surface, I found it best to support the sign until the adhesive sets. I fabricated a temporary support using scrap wood and other materials.


How can I run an additional electrical circuit to a wall mounted TV?

See my previous answer to a similar question.  (It's kind of funny.  I even mention that that same kit you found seems a bit pricey.)

I used a single, recessed, dual-voltage wall plate that lets you do your media and power cables all in one plate.  You just buy an "old work" electrical box, wire it up, and attach it to this plate instead of to the drywall.

I used 6-port keystone plates for the media ports, so I could put just the ports that I wanted back there, and even customize it easily later, if needed.


If apiece of wood furniture is varnished, can i just paint right over it?

The sheen of the varnish needs to come off first.  That can be done best in my opinion with sand paper, 175-grit would be good.


There are multiple options here:

Bypass the switch

Use Tester101's instructions :)

Use the switch as an override-ON

In this case, turning the switch on overrides the timer and turns the light ON until the switch is turned back off, giving control back to the timer.

This can be accomplished by nutting all the blacks together and all the reds together in the timer box, along with all the whites and all the grounds.  If you wish, you can also replace the switch with a single pole one -- join the incoming red with the outgoing black and a pigtail to one switch terminal and connect the incoming black to the other switch terminal.

Use the switch as an override-OFF

In this case, turning the switch ON allows the timer to control the light, while turning the switch OFF forces the light off.  Connect the black wire from the incoming cable to the black wire on the timer, connect the red wire from the outgoing cable to the red wire on the timer, nut the black wire on the outgoing cable off, and connect all the whites together and the grounds together.

Get a 3-way timer instead of your existing one

In that case, the timer will have 5 connections instead of 4, or be able to operate without a neutral in the box.  Keep in mind the latter timers have limitations on what loads they can control due to needing to send a "trickle" of operating power through the load in order to maintain memory.

Install a SPDT Relay to adapt your existing timer to the 3-way configuration

You'll need to use a UL listed relay like the Functional Devices RIBU1C for this job.

The White/Yellow wire on the relay goes to the White wire on the timer and the White wires in the incoming and outgoing cables.
The White/Blue wire on the relay can be nutted off as it's not used here.
The White/Black wire on the relay goes to the Red wire on the timer.
The Yellow wire on the relay goes to the Black wire on the timer and the incoming Black wire from the power source.
The Blue and Orange wires on the relay go to the Red and Black wires on the outgoing cable.
Finally, the Green wire on the timer goes to the bare ground wires on the incoming and outgoing cables.

(You also may need a mudring or extension box in order to fit all the wires inside it -- run the box fill computations please!)

Note that with this configuration, the outside switch will invert the sense of the timer's operation -- flipping the switch will convert timer ON times into timer OFF times and vice versa.


What is the most effective way to get rid of silverfish?

Silverfish like cool, damp locations and feed on paper and other starchy materials.  If the source of your silverfish problem is a crawlspace you might improve things by laying down heavy plastic sheeting over the ground and making sure it's properly vented to reduce moisture a little.  Otherwise, silverfish are very annoying but basically harmless (except to your valuable books/documents- keep them sealed up).


Is a water plumbing shut-off valve needed for every room?

Each water dispensing device should have its own valve. That means one valve for every hot and one for every cold for each fixture or appliance.

If there is a problem (a leak, a malfunctioning unit) this allows you to cut off the problem device without losing functionality of other devices in the system.

For example, if you had a leaking toilet filling valve (inside the tank), you could turn the toilet supply off without losing the cold water in the sink and the tub in that same bathroom. If you had a delay in getting a part or doing a repair, this could be very important.

Having a separate cutoff valve near the dispensing device also allows a fast response to cut off the flow if there is a sudden leak. No running to the basement while the upstairs bathroom floor fills with water.


Does this picture look like a burnt out LED lighting or is something wrong with the fixture itself?

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

According to the answers provided in the comments, the burnout looks normal (@agentp) and the damaged board of LEDs can simply be replaced. The one LED is probably causing the whole fixture to go out like Christmas lights.

According to other comments, LEDs vary by quality and the most crucial part is the driver/capacitor whose job is to convert the electricity correctly (@Harper and @Machavity). This burnout may be a result of that component.

I'll replace the board and see if it goes again.

As a side note, we had a similar LED fixture in the other room that went dim like this a year ago. I didn't take care of that one because the house was new and the building owner had an electrician take care of it.


Is it safe to mix and match light bulb wattages and sizes in same fixture?

Yes, you certainly can use bulbs of different wattages in your fixture. The fact that one socket pulls more current is not important.
Bulb size is mostly a matter of light distribution and heat management. It's not relevant here as long as you don't have them up against something flammable or enclosed too tightly.
As you said, follow max wattage restrictions (though they're largely moot with modern LED bulbs).


How do I tighten this adapter so it stops leaking?

Under that brass nut is a copper or plastic ferrule (sometimes called an olive) if the inside of it is scratched it will not seal.They are cheap so replace it.
Make sure the end of the pipe is smooth and has no spurs that could scratch the new ferrule. If the pipe has shrunk from the pressure of the old ferrule cut that part of pipe off clean up the cut edge and fit a new ferrule.

Plan B: Is if that upper hose is long enough replace the short copper pipe with a connector, seal the connector to the valve and the hose with thread tape.


What Kind of Hardwood Flooring Do I Have - Chicago Home Mid50's

What you have appears to be a red oak 2 1/4" strip floor. It will be 3/4" thick. The plywood you see will perhaps be 5/8" thick, and hopefully on a subfloor as well as the red oak. You will need to confirm all this, and can be easily done if you have an unfinished basement. Looking up from the basement on a 1950's era home you should see diagonal subfloor with the nails holding the finished floor poking through. If you see the underside of the oak flooring, then there is no subfloor and the task of replacing the floor gets a lot more dicey since the joists will be the only thing to walk on after the tile and plywood is pulled up. The subfloor should be there, if this was on the second floor, there would certainly be a bigger chance of no subfloor.


Are these steps for refreshing a patio floor correct?

Tightening the screws is really important you might want to replace some with slightly longer as the holes over time will not hold well (if they hold you are golden). sanding with a coarse grit to get the paint off is a good idea to help reduce the high spots also the heavy weathering After sanding you will wand to clean the deck to remove the dust from the grain and screw heads. I have used a product that home depot sells called Restore. this looks nice but I think it comes in brown and Tan. Restore will help hide the heavy weathering and you really don't need to finish sand only rough sand or pressure wash to get rid of the loose paint. I have refinished horribly weathered decks with Restore that came out looking really nice. The first one was 6-8 years ago and it still looks close to the way it did when I put it down. No matter what you use the boards are "dry" other than minor water penetration and you should have no problems with cupping or warping. Exposed boards really warp and or cup much faster than sealed boards.


Identifying and fixing leak sources, relevant cracks and water flow on a flat concrete roof?

I mostly agree with Ed Beal. Small or hairline Cracks like C1 & C2 can be simply Caulked for a 10-plus year repair & yes you want to address all of those types of cracks whether they're on the wall or roof, so they don't become bigger cracks. You've got hundreds & ALL cracks are potential leaks.

Break-outs & fully open large splits & spalls like D1 & D3 need to be cleaned of all loose debris & forcibly filled with Hydraulic Cement, it slightly expands within & behind as it cures to make the best water-tightness & backing of the surrounding cement.

Areas like P1 that are in the field of the roof need to be leveled to each side of the low spot's high spots, pitched. Meaning, the P1 outside edge further from H1 will & must be slightly higher than P1's inner closer edge to H2. The entire roof should be shaped like 2 bath tub bottoms with H1 & H2 being the drains.

P2 is quite a bit different since it's blocked by a wall. P2 must be pitched into the roof field with the area at the back of the wall being significantly higher than the area at the front end of the wall. At the front end of the wall P2 then needs to be pitched inward or toward H2.

Your roof must tilt from the front to the back & must also be bellied down from the center & outside walls while always maintaining that front to back pitch in order for H1 & H2 to remove all water & have no puddling. Then, everything can be re-painted & the roof can be sealed.


Actual efficiency of an old oil furnace?

There is no way to determine with any certainty what the AFUE was for the boiler in the past. A service technician can check the flue gasses with a flue gas analyzer and determine what the AFUE currently is.

A boiler can keep operating near its original efficiency as long as it is properly maintained. On an annual basis, at minimum the following things should be done: replace the oil filter, clean out the boiler and chimney, and replace the nozzle.

Basically everything on a boiler is replaceable. If you have the knowledge, you could theoretically keep a boiler going indefinitely. You can even replace the lining on the firebox if it wears out. The kits to do this are relatively inexpensive and can increase the life of the burner for many years.

If the boiler is still running well, there most likely is not a need to go out and replace it right away. Even the new high efficiency oil burners are only rated between 86 and 87 AFUE. It would take many years to make up the cost difference.


What size conduit (EMT) do I need for 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 cable (SER) for a subpanel?

If you're just using the conduit as a protective sleeve, and it's not a complete conduit system, I believe you can use the 100% fill volume of the conduit.  When putting cables in conduit, you calculate the fill based on the major diameter of the cable. This value can be found in the manufacturer's documentation, or by measuring the cable.  For Southwire 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 AL SER cable, the manufacturer lists the O.D. as 1168 mils (1.168"). To find the area of the cable, you'll just plug that value in to the following formula:

A = pi * (0.5 * O.D.)^2
A = pi * (0.584)^2
A = pi * 0.341056
A = 1.071

For EMT at 100% fill, 1 1/4" has a volume of 1.496 in.², which is large enough for the cable. However, if you don't have pulling equipment and lube, you may want to use a bit larger conduit.

If it's considered a complete conduit system, you'll have to use the 53% fill volume. Which means you'll have to use at least 1 1/2" EMT (1.079 in.²).  Again, you'll likely want to use a size larger to make the pull easier.

NOTES:
- Conduit dimensions and percent area values can be found in Chapter 9 Table 4 of the National Electrical Code


Splitting maul handle cracked... is it still usable?

First of all, that is a splitting maul, not an axe.

Secondly, the handle consists of a tough layer of plastic over a core layer of fiberglass. The plastic cushions the fiberglass, and, more importantly, keeps your hands from getting nasty splinters.

Because the strength comes from the core fiberglass center piece, you can still use the maul, but I'd wrap the broken section with a few wraps of duct tape. It will eventually break (depending on how often you miss), but that could take years.

Should you want to remove it, the best way is to cut off the handle with a saw and then use a drill to drill out the epoxy, and get replacement handle kit. This is time consuming, hence my recommendation to use the handle until it actually breaks, as it often becomes easier to remove then.


Can I move the main electrical panel to the unattached garage?

There's a few ways to do this, though service conductors cannot pass through another building, so all the methods will have to avoid that.

One option would be to install a service disconnect, and then branch from that to the panels.

With this method, you'll handle all the grounding and bonding of the neutral in the disconnect.  So you'll install 4 wire feeders from the disconnect to each panel, and keep the neutral isolated in each panel.

Another option is to use the first panel as the service disconnect, and feed the second panel from the first.

With this method, you'll handle all the grounding and bonding of the neutral in the first panel.  So you'll feed the second panel with a 4 wire feeder, and isolate the neutral in the second panel.

With is approach, the first panel will have to be rated to handle the total current of both panels.

In all cases, you're going to need properly sized feeders, and a grounding electrode system for each building.

The scope of this project is far too vast for a short answer format site, such as this.  I've given a high-level overview of how you might approach the project.  For a more detailed plan, please contact a local licensed Electrician.


safe distance for re-drilling nail holes

Putting another hole even 1/4" away would work at 1/2" I would not worry at all. So I would say it's safe.


Help to remove handles from leaky bathroom faucet

Usually with that type you pry off the cap on the top and find a screw underneath which holds the handle to the stem of the valve. Probably you pry off the entire cap but it could be only the white center.


control multiple lighting contactors from multiple sources without turning everything on

Your third point binds you to one solution

Because they want phone or internet control of this system (and that is a reasonable request these days), you are absolutely married to a home-automation scheme like Wemo or HomeKit.

That means you have two choices: you can build the other controls so they are locked in mortal combat with the automation... Or you can integrate the other controls into the automation using recommended methods.  Given that it's for a customer, you're pretty much forced into the second choice. If you are not willing to "skill up" in this area, get a subcontractor.


Hot water heater thermostat contacts burned - how to repair?

So the first step is to find out why this terminal started burning in the first place.  Chances are you have a failed or failing element that is drawing too much power, but not quite enough to trip the breaker or you have a failed thermostat.

It looks like the main damage is the insulation of the wire that I assume goes to the supply.  You will need to replace or, if possible, repair the wire's insulation.  If the conductors are also burned you will need to replace.  Some heat-shrink tubing that has the same heat rating at the original wire, which is probably at least 90C could be used.  But check that as it should be marked on the undamaged wire.

A water heater element is a 240V connection that has no connection to ground.  Often these fail internally and one of the conductors will connect to the steel tube that contains the element itself.  So if you measure one with a VOM (that's a Volt-Ohm-Meter) with the POWER OFF!!! and the wires disconnected from the element, you should get a reasonable resistance (in OHMS mode) between the two terminals and a very high or infinite resistance from either terminal to ground.

What is reasonable?  Well you need to check the label on the unit where the element power outputs are listed.  Often they are in the range of 4-5 KW (that's kilo-Watts).  Ohm's Law and the Power Equation will give you the expected resistance:

P (in Watts) = V (in Volts) * I (in Amps)

So 4000 = 240 * I => I = 16.6 Amps, at 5000 W you have I = 20.8 A

Ohm's Law: V = IR which can be re-written as:

R = V/I

Again at 4000 we have R = 240/16.6 = ~14.5 Ohms and at 5000 we have 240/20.8 = 11.5 Ohms.  So you should see an R value on your VOM between the two terminals of the element in that range of 11.5 to 14.5 Ohms.  Much different than that (again assuming you have one that is 4000-5000 W) and you have a problem.


How would I connect rigid pvc to a flexible hose for a drain

I had a similar situation with my condensate drain. Original setup was around the walls to the laundry tub - low slope pipe (not PVC - some sort of lesser plastic) that really didn't work very well (probably worked better 60 years ago when it was originally installed). I replaced it with PVC in a more direct route, ending on top of the floor drain.
Why do you need flexible hose? If the pipes are essentially stable, get/cut (very easy with PVC) pipe and connectors so that you end with an output down into the floor drain. Flexible hose may be a bit easier initially but is more likely to get messed up - moved to the wrong location, pinched, etc.


Why is Schedule 80 conduit not available at home improvement stores?

The big home improvement stores have elaborate systems in place to determine what sells in each store and figure out what products will bring the best return with the finite space they have for inventory.
There are lots of products that are very good or necessary that won't get a spot just because they are slow sellers.  Other retailers / wholesalers / distributors are set up to inventory more variety in specific categories.  So a local electrical supply will have things that are not as big of a seller.


Several wires in a sheath is called a cable.  The difference gets important fast.

Traveler wires

First, it's time to stop the dizziness and confusion with the travelers.  You should not have to play musical chairs with travelers.  (It's not hazardous so as long as you are only exchanging the wires which belong on the 3-way, but it's a stupid waste of time).  And to save us trouble later, let's mark the travelers; I recommend yellow tape, but if that color is already assigned, just use blue.  Mark both travelers the same color, there is no need to distinguish them from each other.

This will always be true about travelers:

There is no wire-color standard. Really. That's why we mark them!
Both traveler wires are in the same /3 cable
Both traveler wires go to the 3-way switch
In the same /3 cable, travelers stay the same color. We don't have "crossover cables" in mains electrical.
However if the /3 cable is spliced somewhere, all bets are off.

So. In box 2, all 3 wires go to the switch, so that's no help at all.  However in box 1's left /3 cable, red and white go to the switch.  Gotcha!

Red and white get marked yellow (or blue if you prefer).  In switch #1 box, and also switch #2 box, unless you have reason to believe the cable is spliced somewhere else.

Identifying the common screw terminal

You've talked a lot about screw positions and never about screw colors.  On 3-ways, screw positions are meaningless. Screw colors matter.  The common screw is black, the traveler screws are brass/yellow.

Now we've identified the traveler positions by logic, and identified the traveler screws by color.  There is only one way this can possibly connect, and it must work. Unless:

A third 3-way (4-way), or splice in a lamp box?

Remember the part where I said "if the /3 cable is spliced in another box, all bets are off"?   That could happen in a lamp box, or the site of a current or former 4-way switch. There's no substitute but to search every possible box for this.  You'll recognize it when 2 wires from a /3 cable are spliced to 2 wires from another /3 cable. (Not counting grounds).

In that case, the traveler principles still apply, but you have to figure out which cable is which amongst several white /3 cables coming into that intermediate box.  ...and this, this is why I advocate marking travelers with colored tape.

There's one more possibility.  Here, we presume the left /3 cable connects to box 2.  What if it's actually the right /3 cable??? That would make this whole thing a bodge job of considerable proportion, but it would explain a lot. The troubleshooting here might be beyond you, and it might be time to bring in a handyman.


How can I remove one switch in a three-way circuit and maintain switch function?

More information would be helpful, but here's what I think you have going.

It sounds like you're outside the U.S., probably in the UK or India where red, yellow and blue are used for hot wires and black for neutral?

What we call a 3-Way switch here in the U.S. (because it has 3 terminals on it) is called a 2-Way switch in the U.K. and areas using the same terminology, because it controls the lighting from 2 different locations.

So the 2-Way switch is the switch with 3 terminals on it, labeled L or C (common), L1 and L2, plus possibly a 4th terminal for the "earth" wire.

In the "double switch box" (it's a double-gang box with two switches), you have 1 single pole switch, and 1 "2-way" switch.

The single pole switch controls a light by itself, simple. That's connected to the cable with 3 wires (red, black, earth), which is a "switch leg." The red and black are both hot wires in this case, one bringing power to the switch, and the other taking power back to the light.

The 2-Way switch (called 3-Way switch in the U.S.) is the one connected to the cable with 4 wires (red, blue, yellow and earth). The "common" is the incoming hot wire, and both L1 and L2 are hot, depending on the position of the switch, feeding power through to another 2-Way switch (then out the common wire on that other switch).

Your "single switch" on the other end should have also been a 2-Way switch. So there should be a cable with red, blue, yellow and earth wires in that box.

The 2-Way switches work as a pair, bringing power in the common wire on one switch, and out the common wire on the other switch. The other two wires are "travelers" and carry electricity between the switches.

So... you could try this:

Leave the wires alone on the 2-Way switch that's still connected. Note which colors are connected to the common and L1 terminals.
In the "single switch box" on the other end, connect the common and L1 wires with a wirenut. Cap off the other wire with a wirenut.
Try the switch, it should switch your light on and off.


What are these thin boards resting on interior wall top plate for?

You're correct. They're just drywall backing where the span from the adjacent truss is too great to let it float.

The drywall will not fall. You can remove the backing and the wall. When you complete your re-framing you'll need to add backing back in where appropriate.

If you're simply removing that wall, do the demolition, then float boards on each edge of the drywall (half inch plywood or one-by lumber work well), screw them in place through the drywall, then add your 3-1/2" drywall filler strip.


What would cause my LED tape to flash when plugged in?

CFLs and LEDs can be very sensitive to leakage currents, especially when 'turned off'.  It doesn't take much leakage to make them flash.  Lutron has a line of dimmers that are adjustable that should help.


Kitchen sink: what is the difference between left and right section?

(A) is to save you from composting. It's a Garbage Disposal, it's just for food & food scraps & you only turn it on when the water is running down its hole. It grinds everything up into little bits, so never put your hand in it or leave any utensils or other hard objects in there, they can damage it & be damaged. Turn the Water on, turn the Disposer on, drop in your waste & wait until it sounds & looks like it's done grinding & everything's washed away & clear.

There should be a light switch to activate (A)'s device very close to the sink on the wall. (C) is to cover (A) when it's not in use as a regular sink or as a Disposer. (C) keeps things from dropping in & also seals out odors from its ground-up residue.

(B) is our typical kitchen sink with a built-in Strainer that makes sure large items can't get down & clog-up the plumbing. (D) is rarely used by most people & just gets tossed under sink into that cabinet. It acts as a finer Strainer & as a Stopper so the sink can be filled up with water. The slot in the center (B) corresponds the bottom peg of (D). Turn (D)'s peg to fit into (B)'s slot & it's a Stopper. Turn (D)'s peg perpendicular to (B)'s slot & it's a Strainer.


REPAIR - Bathtub caulking or grouting between acrylic bathtub and tile

OK, grout should never have been used there in the first place because it will crack. I can see more cracking from your pictures. Your best bet is get as much of that grout out of there as you can as it will continue to crack and fall out. Once you get the grout out, get some quality silicone caulk and run a good bead of caulk around the tub. Make sure everything is dry before caulking.