Added Outlet to a GFI Receptacle covered circuit

The fridge/freezer are a red herring.  Cable length is a red herring.  These are not the problem.

Here, simple logic applies.  It worked before; you changed it; and now it doesn't work.  I'm sorry, that's inescapable, and it tells us where to look.

Noting your credential, it may be a bit afield of mains wiring in buildings. Mains wiring is weird, that's the only way I can really describe it to an electrical professional.  Different things are done for their own set of reasons.  If you deep-dive into the gory details of the reasons, you eventually find they are well-founded - but until you do, they seem arbitrary and stupid, and it is tempting to ignore them and do what seems right.

In your case, first, go after the forehead-slappers.  Look in both your new box and the box you tapped from (which I assume is not the GFCI) -- and look for anything out of order, but even more, focus on that floppy-doppy bare ground wire touching any of the screws. If you're using backstabs, stop using backstabs, but make sure you haven't left any bare wire sticking out for a ground wire to snag and touch.  Contact between neutral and ground is super-bad.  Normally it's a "silent but deadly, but in the case of GFCI, it will result in instant trip.

One common tactic is, after attaching all the wires to screws, run all the other screws down and wrap tape around the receptacle so it covers all the screws.

Now if you did tap the GFCI device, you are using the LOAD terminals but not correctly.  You must use them for both hot and neutral.  Using LOAD hot and LINE neutral or vice versa is a guaranteed trip.  The nut of what's going on with GFCIs isn't that hard to understand:

Disregard the dashed lines, those are for extra phases on GFCIs equipped for extra phases.  Do note the fact that the GFCI device completely ignores ground.

A GFCI+receptacle combo device is extra hard to understand because it's doing 2 totally unrelated things at once, like a destroyer that's a fleet oiler, or an E-2 that also does Prowler-style SEAD.  What's actually happening is that it's exactly the black box with supply/LINE and protected-zone/LOAD -- except it also has 2 sockets hardwired to the LOAD terminals.  (it still doesn't use ground, but the sockets use ground.)

On the right side, both hot and neutral are in the "protected zone". Most of my work is in conduit, and I intentionally use a different color - brown and gray - for protected-zone hot and neutral. Every load must tap protected-zone hot and neutral together.

Now: you may have a wrong read on the issue with GFCIs and refrigerators and freezers.  It's not that they're "touchy" (by which I read: more likely to trip GFCIs all on their own).  It's that there's a very severe risk of a nuisance GFCI trip for any reason destroying valuable food.   A fridge is no more or less likely to trip a GFCI than any other motorized device.

However, Fridges/Freezers on a well-grounded circuit are not the use-case for GFCI, they are the exact opposite of the use-case.

GFCIs are there to protect humans from accidental shock. The grounded steel chassis of the fridge/freezer already does that.
GFCIs protect where humans are likely to come in contact with AC-energized parts.  All that stuff in a fridge is at the bottom rear, where you can't get within 6' of it if it's installed in kitchen counters
GFCIs protect humans from 2-prong ungrounded equipment. Fridges are well-grounded.

Simply put, Code does not call for protecting fridges with GFCI.  This discussion (uselessness of GFCI and cost of lost food) has been had within NFPA, and they chose to exclude fridges from GFCI requirements. The only way fridges get haled into GFCI is when they are placed in rooms where all receptacles have to be GFCI, and even then, only because you are choosing a cord-and-plug connection for your appliance.

Hardwire it, poof, GFCI requirement goes away.

So, because of the risk of food loss, having a fridge/freezer on GFCI is a bad idea. What's an even worse idea is having the fridge/freezer on a shared circuit with general receptacles.  So yes.  You should definitely run a separate dedicated circuit to power the fridge/freezer.

And since that might require pulling a permit, you should go have a talk with your AHJ (the guy who issues the permits) and ask him if GFCIs are really necessary on receptacles that serve only fridge/freezer.  He may say "That's fine, 1 circuit, 1 socket" -- Because usually these conversations assume ONE refrigerator OR freezer and so require a 1-socket receptacle so you can't plug anything else into that circuit.  So you'd have to have the "I have both" discussion and see whether he'll allow a duplex receptacle or want 2 dedicated circuits with 1-socket receptacles.  If you've got the panel space, Romex is cheap, so why not.

Plan Charlie, is hardwire the fridge-freezer, by having their cords enter a junction box with a quality strain relief, then splicing in the junction box. This means lopping off their sockets, or my preference, go to the electrical supply and get wet-rated cordage of appropriate rating and replace the whole cord, saving the old cord for when you sell it.


Imagine, if you will, that your whole plumbing system was threaded pipe. Which was common in many places for a certain time period...

With pipe fittings, you don't get a choice of orientation on threads. You just work with them as they come, and there is some practical leeway between "so loose it leaks" and "too tight" which is how you get things to align - proper use of decent pipe dope helps with this.

So, solder it in any which way. Tighten until the gauge faces the way you want, without leaks.

If you are super-fussy and like overly complex and expensive solutions, you can insert a union between the gauge and the rest of the system.

There are other options, such as using a compression fitting where the threads and the seal are separate functions, and the fitting does not turn as the nut is tightened. You could think of those as "fittings that act like a union."


Ice Maker Not Filling Fully or Dumping Ice - Supply Issue?

The solution to my problem was to "reset the fridge"...

So, apparently there was a power outage or something like that while the ice maker was making ice, so the fridge lost it's marbles.

The solution to this problem was the "reset" the fridge.

Go into the menu, find the "default settings" option, and hold "set" till it beeps.

I have no idea why this performs a reset, we are and always were using the factory default settings, and turning the "make ice" option off, and on again apparently can not cause this reset to happen.

The ice cubes are supposed to be tiny, and apparently even ice makers need to be "reset" every now and then.


Looking at the Milwaukee web site the chuck capacity refers to the largest solid bit (hole diameter) the drill is capable of drilling. They are referring to using a solid bit not a hole saw. If you notice, that diameter increases as the power of the drill increases along with the price. That is not to say that you can't drill a hole larger than the rated capacity but it will tax the motor and shorten tool life.


Can I have independent heating zones with a standard boiler?

Yes, it can be done.  It just needs to be plumbed (and wired) right.  Each thermostat should control a valve that admits hot water to its section of the house.
The boiler should be wired to fire up whenever either thermostat is calling for heat.
For example, if the basement is cold, but the rest of the house is warm, then the valve allowing water to the basement should be opened, and the boiler turned on.


Plumber's silicone grease.

Silicone Faucet Grease helps reduce friction and provides long-lasting lubrication. The grease is water resilient and oxidation resistant.  Resistant to most harsh chemicals
Retains its consistency in temperatures from 40 to 400 F.


Would like to add a 14-30 outlet in my garage

What you have here is called a "split bus panel".   There is no main breaker and as Limo Driver said, it follows the "rule of six" which means it must be possible to cut all power with 6 movements of your hand, you can cut all power with 4, so you're in good shape that way. But the panel is FULL! The 2 "unused" spaces are probably not available because there are connection lugs behind them. A picture of the innards of the panel would be helpful to get better advice.
Also, it's impossible to feed generator power to a panel like this safely unless you get one of those rinky dinky generac transfer switches with individual breakers. The master electricians here prefer a manual interlock on the main breaker so you can power the entire house from the generator, but that's not possible here.
Another consideration would be a sub-panel. You could upgrade the sub-main breaker from 60 to 100 amps, move some circuits to the sub-panel to make room for your 14-30 outlet.  But that's kind of a kludge.  Less expensive than a full panel replacement, but still a kludge.  If it were my house, I'd do a full panel replacement with a 40 space panel.  I also noticed you're in Washington State (me too), and we have our share of wind storms and power outages. So if you do this, you might want to consider  a breaker for the generator and a generator interlock between the generator breaker and the main breaker.


What's the best way to lay tile in a straight line

Use a laser level to project a level line across the wall. Something like this is self leveling.

This won't work if you need to line them up to a non-level reference. In that case you can use a simple laser line (which is much cheaper than the self leveling models).


How is this type of weather stripping replaced?

I have seen this type of weather stripping many times on sliding doors.  There is a flange on the weather stripping that fits into the mill work.  It is a bit difficult to remove, and even harder to replace.  They sell the replacements at most box stores.  It is important to remove the flange from a small dido (gap) in the frame. Putting the new one in is tedious and often frustrating, but can be done. It is truly a poor design.  Take your time, use a little wood glue as lube and a way to keep it in place, or use a surface mounted replacement. I have had some  success with self adhesive  pillow type weather stripping.  I feel your pain!  lol.


How do I keep old 1 pane glas from blowing out by high wind?

It takes an insane amount of wind to blow out glass. I've been through a couple dozen hurricanes, and haven't seen winds high enough to blow glass out.

Debris in the wind, however, will. Only real protection from flying debris is plywood on the outside, and some powerful prayer.

If you aren't capable of covering the windows in plywood, nail heavy blankets tightly over the inside of the window, right on the trim. It won't prevent glass breakage, but should slow down any debris that makes it through.

I strongly urge you, if you are senior and alone, to seek public shelter, or stay at church, or with friends. Let people too young and ignorant to know better ride the storms.

Let me tell you a quick story. Hurricane Isabel - I sent my family inland to be protected from the storm surge, I stayed at the house to make sure everything was okay. As the storm surge waters rose, I watched the waters lap up to the house. I decided to grab the hatchet, and thought if the water got too high I would go up in the attic, chop a hole in the roof, and sit up on the roof during the floods. As the waters rose up another foot, and my house was completely surrounded in flood waters, I thought, " What, are you stupid?! Get the heck outta here, you can't hold back the river!!" Jumped in the truck, hauled tail outta there. Barely made it. My house was destroyed, and I probably would not have survived.

Lesson: You can't hold back the storm. Get out.


How should I neutralize restored plaster walls?

This thread at Contractor Talk regarding priming/painting new lime plaster has multiple good tips:

Wait 2-3 mos (until plaster is fully white), neutralize (vinegar in water was mentioned) and prime with an alkyd primer.


How can I eliminate home shaking caused by vibration from heavy traffic/poor road condition?

since its very difficult to decouple a home from its surrounding substrates, and sound propagation would otherwise just continue, you probably wont be able to do it unless you lift the house and isolate it from the earth.  berms, walls, and other physical barriers would have to be carefully designed, and probably be massively heavy to have any effect - all costly and invasive.

however, you have another option but it might be expensive.  you can have a sound engineer design an active acoustical damper for your home.  basically it uses large subwoofers to blast sound waves through your foundation (or at least at your foundation from the interior of the home).  the subs are triggered by sensors on the foundation walls and out in the yard and are all controlled by a computer.  essentially when a vibration comes in, it blasts the opposite waveform and cancels it out.  the issue is going to be finding someone to do it.  i was part of a job fifteen years ago that had something like this designed and installed for a site for a large optical telescope, and it worked amazingly well.  but i have no idea where you would start to look for the right guys to do it.  maybe your local college physics or engineering department?


Is there a reason NOT to use a garden hose to hook up two faucets?

I can think of one (perhaps minor) reason.  Most hoses aren't designed to be pressurized all the time.  And when they do fail, they split and flow at full rate.  I flooded my neighbor's yard and gave myself a steep water bill for the month in this way a few years ago.


What should I do about my toilet flapper sticking open?

If you purchased one of the generic replacements, they usually come with both the slide on and hinge mounting rubber parts attached.  If your mounting is the two side pin type, then you must cut the connecting tabs of rubber that hold the slide on rubber ring, and discard it. If you slide the flapper on with the ring and also use the side hinges, it will not work properly.  You can only use one mount type..  slide on or side hinge.   Hope this is your situation, easy fix.


What amount of moisture is acceptable in a mostly dry concrete basement?

I have worked on homes that had a drain trench around the entire basement that drained into a sump and was pumped out, the walls were always wet and a dehumidifier was needed in the winter. With the levels you have listed I would not worry at all. If the 1 location that gets wet gets worse or larger some exterior work may be needed to get the water away from the wall. The dampness will not affect the concrete, think about all the bridge pilings that are in & under water. If you don't have a mold or mildew problem I don't see anything wrong with hanging clothes to dry. We have a large kettle on our wood stove to add moisture to the home probably not much different to the amount the clothes provide plus it saves energy.


Could be an internal switch failure that only manifests when the terminal screw is tightened? Try removing the switch and directly connecting the hot and "switched hot" (or using a jumper wire across the switch). If the receptacle functions then you have a bad switch.


Pitch. Dried tree sap. That appears to be a rather large "pitch pocket", and other than the size, is perfectly normal.
The other possibility (hard to be sure from this picture) is that it's more of a "bark inclusion" where a dent/scar that had scabbed over on the face of the tree was not removed in planing.
A higher grade of carpenter would probably have tossed that board in the scrap bin, but presumably it met grade for the class of wood required and your house builder was more into budget than "nice." #2 studs can be pretty awful looking and still work.


You can put it in the wall as long as you have an accessible cover that doesn’t damage the finish. For years I have done this and made “picture frames” that were held in with Velcro, an inspector mentioned that I could screw them in it would still be legal he thought my picture frame idea was a good one. So yes you can conceal things they just need to be accessible without damaging the building finish.


Silica microballoons work nicely for epoxy.

For ant bait, probably cornstarch.


Running LV conduit through attic - what do I need to know?

NEC Article 362

I've copied the NEC portions that cover corrugated HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) conduit for your reading pleasure. The NEC differentiates between corrugated and non corrugated HDPE conduits by referring to corrugated HDPE as ENT and non corrugated as just HDPE. Non corrugated HDPE is not allowed at all in any buildings, whereas corrugated is.

Also, the NEC doesn't specifically differentiate orange corrugated HDPE from blue corrugated HDPE but instead simply refers to Optical Fiber Cable conduit as "Innerduct".

770.12 Innerduct for Optical Fiber Cables.

  Listed plenum communications raceway, listed riser communications
  raceway, and listed general-purpose communications raceway selected
  in accordance with the provisions of Table 800.154(b) shall be
  permitted to be installed as innerduct in any type of listed raceway
  permitted in Chapter 3.

Also interesting is Carlon, the maker of Riser-gard refers to "Innerduct" when comparing their different Riser-gard products. See here.
I think it is safe, in general, to compare innerduct to the safety regulations required for ENT installations.

The most important parts for you will be 362.12 Uses Not Permitted, 362.30 Securing and Supporting A-B, and 362.26 Bends.

Notably Securing and Supporting(B) addresses your horizontal attic runs which permits the rafters to support the ENT if they are not greater than 3' apart and provided you secure the ENT within 3' of every pull/junction box.

Also interesting is 362.10 which only permits buildings not exceeding three floors for exposed work.

And anything over 122°F ambient temperature is not permitted unless listed otherwise.  This may be a problem for hot summer attics without proper ventilation.

As for drilling into attics that is more a building code issue.  This answer addresses the codes for that.

  II. Installation 362.10 Uses Permitted.

  The use of ENT and fittings shall be permitted in the following:

  (1) In any building not exceeding three floors above grade as follows:

  a. For exposed work, where not prohibited by 362.12

  b. Concealed within walls, floors, and ceilings

  (2) In any building exceeding three floors above grade, ENT shall be concealed within walls, floors, and ceilings where the walls, floors, and ceilings provide a thermal barrier of material that has at least a 15-minute finish rating as identified in listings of fire-rated assemblies. The 15-minute-finish-rated thermal barrier shall be permitted to be used for combustible or noncombustible walls, floors, and ceilings.

  Exception to (2): Where a fire sprinkler system(s) is in stalled in accordance with NFPA 13-2013, Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems, on all floors, ENT shall be permitted to be used within walls, floors, and ceilings, exposed or concealed, in buildings exceeding three floors above grade. Informational Note: A finish rating is established for assemblies containing combustible (wood) supports. The finish rating is defined as the time at which the wood stud or wood joist reaches an average temperature rise of 121°C (250°F) or an individual temperature of 16.3°C (325°F) as measured on the plane of the wood nearest the fire. A finish rating is not in tended to represent a rating for a membrane ceiling.

  (3) In locations subject to severe corrosive influences as covered in 300.6 and where subject to chemicals for which the materials are specifically approved.

  (4) In concealed, dry, and damp locations not prohibited by 362.12.

  (5) Above suspended ceilings where the suspended ceilings provide a thermal barrier of material that has at least a 15-minute finish rating as identified in listings of fire-rated assemblies, except as permitted in 362.10(1)(a).

  Exception to (5): ENT shall be permitted to be used above suspended ceilings in buildings exceeding three floors above grade where the building is protected throughout by a fire sprinkler system installed in accordance with NFPA 13-2013, Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems.

  (6) Encased in poured concrete, or embedded in a concrete slab on grade where ENT is placed on sand or ap proved screenings, provided fittings identified for this purpose are used for connections.

  (7) For wet locations indoors as permitted in this section or in a concrete slab on or belowgrade, with fittings listed for the purpose.

  (8) Metric designator 16 through 27 (trade size 1/2" through 1) as listed manufactured prewired assembly. Informational Note: Extreme cold may cause some types of nonmetallic conduits to become brittle and therefore more susceptible to damage from physical contact.

  (9) Conductors or cables rated at a temperature higher than the listed temperature rating of ENT shall be permitted to be installed in ENT, if the conductors or cables are not operated at a temperature higher than the listed temperature rating of the ENT.

  362.12 Uses Not Permitted.

  ENT shall not be used in the following:

  (1) In any hazardous (classified) location, except as permitted by other articles in this Code

  (2) For the support of luminaires and other equipment

  (3) Where subject to ambient temperatures in excess of 50°C (122°F) unless listed otherwise

  (4) For direct earth burial

  (5) Where the voltage is over 600 volts

  (6) In exposed locations, except as permitted by 362.10(1), 362.10(5), and 362.10(7)

  (7) In theaters and similar locations, except as provided in 518.4 and 520.5

  (8) Where exposed to the direct rays of the sun, unless identified as sunlight resistant

  (9) Where subject to physical damage

  362.20 Size.

  (A) Minimum. ENT smaller than metric designator 16 (trade size 1/2") shall not be used.

  (B) Maximum. ENT larger than metric designator 53 (trade size 2) shall not be used. Informational Note: See 300.1

  362.26 Bends – Number in One Run.
  There shall not be more than the equivalent of four quarter bends (360 degrees total) between pull points, for example, conduit bodies and boxes.

  362.28 Trimming.

  All cut ends shall be trimmed inside and outside to remove rough edges.

  362.30 Securing and Supporting.

  ENT shall be installed as a complete system in accordance with 300.18 and shall be securely fastened in place and supported in accordance with 362.30(A) and (B).

  (A) Securely Fastened.

  ENT shall be securely fastened at intervals not exceeding 900 mm (3 ft). In addition, ENT shall be securely fastened in place within 900 mm (3 ft) of each outlet box, device box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting where it terminates.

  Exception No. 1: Lengths not exceeding a distance of 1.8 m (6 ft) from a luminaire terminal connection for tap connections to lighting luminarie shall be permitted without being secured.

  Exception No. 2: Lengths not exceeding 1.8 m (6 ft) from the last point where the raceway is securely fastened for connections within an accessible ceiling to luminaire(s) or other equipment.

  Exception No. 3: For concealed work in finished buildings or prefinished wall panels where such securing is impracticable, unbroken lengths (without coupling) of ENT shall be permitted to be fished.

  (B) Supports.
  Horizontal runs of ENT supported by openings in framing members at intervals not exceeding 900 mm (3 ft) and securely fastened within 900 mm (3 ft) of termination points shall be permitted.

  362.46 Bushings. Where a tubing enters a box, fitting, or other enclosure, a bushing or adapter shall be provided to protect the wire from abrasion unless the box, fitting, or enclosure design provides equivalent protection.

  362.48 Joints.

  All joints between lengths of tubing and between tubing and couplings, fittings, and boxes shall be by an approved method.

  362.56 Splices and Taps.

  Splices and taps shall be made only in accordance with 300. 15. Informational Note: See Article 314 for rules on the installation and use of boxes and conduit bodies.

  362.60 Grounding. Where equipment grounding is required, a separate equipment grounding conductor shall be installed in the raceway in compliance with Article 250, Part VI. III. Construction Specifications

  362.100 Construction. ENT shall be made of material that does not exceed the ignitibility, flammability, smoke gen eration, and toxicity characteristics of rigid (nonplasticized) polyvinyl chloride. ENT, as a prewired manufactured assembly, shall be provided in continuous lengths capable of being shipped in a coil, reel, or carton without damage.

  362.120 Marking. (This is usually done by the manufacturer)

  ENT shall be clearly and durably marked at least every 3 m (10 ft) as required in the first sentence of 110.21(A). The type of material shall also be included in the marking. Marking for limited smoke shall be permitted on the tubing that has limited smoke producing characteristics. The type, size, and quantity of conductors used in prewired manufactured assemblies shall be identified by means of a printed tag or label attached to each end of the manufactured assembly and either the carton, coil, or reel. The enclosed conductors shall be marked in accordance with 3.10.120.  (This is usually done by the manufacturer)


Should I insulate the garage in the home I'm having built?

I would insulate it unless the cost is exorbitant.

As you have discovered, it is basically impossible to heat an uninsulated structure with just a little space heater.

Also if you are going to be keeping cars in the garage as well, having an insulated garage will keep it warmer even if you don't heat it. My garage is insulated but unheated and it is usually a good 10 or 20 ºF warmer than outside temps in the winter. The difference between a car that is 20 ºF and one that is 40 ºF in the morning is considerable.

Mine also stays very cool in the summer, so I think the insulation will help you there, not hurt you. (I bet insulating the roof/attic probably makes the biggest difference there.)


(since most people answered in the comments.)

No, it won't.


Powering multiple switches from one switch

As usual, hate to say it, but "it depends".  There are essentially 2 popular ways to connect switches for fixtures:

Provide power to the fixture and run a "switch loop" to the switch.  If that's the case, no you'll have to get power for your outdoor switches elsewhere. (see last paragraph for exception).

If power is provided to the switch first and then a switched cable goes to the fixture, then yes, that can be done.

I ALWAYS run power to the switches first and NEVER use switch loops, there are just too many devices now (smart switches, timers, etc.) that need a bit of power and they don't work with an old school switch loop unless it was wired with 14/3 or 12/3, which is currently code for switch loop.


How can I unscrew this old bathtub faucet stem?

That part should move, try tapping it lightly with a small hammer, and maybe use a bigger wrench.

Also try tuning it the other direction the stem appears to have a left-hand thread so the valve body may also.


Replacing a toilet, when I turn the water valve off there is still water running into toilet?

It is very common for the "stop valve" (the local water supply shut-off valve for a plumbing fixture) to leak by. Over the years the rubber bibb washer either softens to the point that is disintegrates when tightened down against the valve seat, or calcium scale or/and mineral deposits prevent proper sealing. Try opening and closing it a few more times, then use pliers to actually force it closed. Any of the following scenarios could play out:

the water flow will stop*
the flow will not stop*
the handle will break or be crushed and the flow will not stop*

*these scenarios require you to shut off the main water supply to the house/area and repair or replace (most likely replace) the stop valve.


Roofing solution for "dead valley," where one plane goes into side wall?

Solution I ended up with:

I extended the shingles well over the edge (not shown) and also added some kick out flashing (not shown) to further divert water away from the side wall and to the roof plane below.


How do you connect tap lines to the water line?

Water supply lines are standardized now and connect to a shutoff or supply with a compression style fitting.

Are the supply lines coming out of the floor a bare copper pipe or PEX?  Or is there a shut off valve?  If there is a compression ring and nut on the water supply, then that needs to be removed.

If there is no shutoff valve, then you should install one on each supply line (hot and cold).  Unfortunately, builders stopped installing these some years ago to save $$ on the unseen costs of a house (which they perceive adds no value to the new home purchaser).

You can get the shutoff valves in straight (when coming out of the floor) or 90 degree - from the wall and for various supply line types (PEX, copper).

If you are not confident in your soldering skills, you can get a SharkBite valve that does not require soldering.

Assuming you have copper supply lines, and are not confident in your soldering skills, this is what you do:

Turn off the water to the house, and relieve the pressure by opening taps at or below the level of the supply line.
Have a bucket and some cloths handy.
Disconnect your current faucet.
Cut off the top of the water supply pipe with a  - to use this kind of cutter, position the cutting wheel where you want the pipe cut and tighten the knob.  Rotate the cutter twice, tighten a bit more, repeat until the pipe is cut through.
Install your new valve - like this
Make sure the valve is turned off, then turn the water back on in the house and check for any leaks.
Install your faucet, connect it and check for leaks.  Don't forget the teflon tape on the threads before you attach the nut.  Wrap the teflon tape around the threads in the same direction as you turn the nut to tighten it.

Use the cloths to mop up any water that comes out of the pipe as you cut it.  Put the wet cloths in the bucket to contain the water.


Installing a Nest thermostat without a C wire?

Try the terminal between G and Y on your control board

It looks like the C terminal on your control board is between the G and Y terminals, so I would try there as your first port of call, provided your thermostat cable has spare wires in it.  (It's labeled /C in the bottom row of labels, and has a wire from what likely is your air conditioner compressor running to it already.)


What code requirements exist for low-sill, upper-floor windows?

Windows above 72 inches from exterior grade are required to have a sill at least 24 inches off the floor to meet 2012 IRC requirements, which should be what you're required to comply with (IRC at least, it might not be 2012 but AFAIK it's been 24 inches for years). If you can limit the windows from opening more than 4 inches, or use a "Window Opening Control Device" that limits it to 4 inches, but releases with more pressure (no more than 15 pounds, however), then they are OK below the 24 inches. Here is a link to the code.

If you prevent the bottom sash from opening at all, and the top of the bottom sash is no less than 24 inches from the floor, then it meets the requirement. Your closet window needs to meet this requirement as well (meaning, allowing it to open freely from two inches above the floor is not OK). Or, you can install guards (I'm guessing that the guards would have to prevent a 4" sphere from passing as well).

Recommendations from my own experience would be to replace the glass with tempered if you are able (I'm surprised it's not required), just in case a window breaks there will be less of a chance to get cut. And, if you're expecting to have rambunctious kids (or dogs or whatever) in the house, I would install guards even if the windows don't open. Just in case.


Sliding Door Frame Slightly Bent Towards Center

All the suggestions in the comment section are valid. If adjusting the jamb screws doesn't solve the problem, you will need to remove the trim to inspect how the door frame was shimmed. A gap in the location you showed indicates a lack of back support or over tightened screws. You may need to add shims to eliminate the gap.


Can I run a kitchen sink drain 19' through a hollow stud wall with seven 90-degree turns?

Drilling holes in 17 feet of studs to accommodate a 1 1/2 inch drain line would not be recommended. The sheer number of studs impacted, including two corners, would definitely weaken the wall, especially if it is a exterior load bearing wall.

A second consideration with what is shown in your picture is that if it ever plugged it would be impossible to run a snake through such piping construction.

It is common to organize the house layout so that the plumbing routing is optimized and clustered into one particular area. This way you avoid much of what you are proposing. You may want to seriously consider just where you plan to put this kitchen sink and drains.


"Masonry sleeve anchors" are used by electricians to hang electrical boxes and other equipment on brick/block walls.  They are plenty strong for your need.

Or you could use Tapcons (for performance see shear strength), but I find the sleeve anchors to be more versatile and they are stronger.

Either of those solutions is way strong enough to handle your mirror.


Why does recommended door rough opening height add 2-1/2" to door height?

I might quibble about floor thickness (3/4 for wood strip flooring), jamb thickness (closer to 5/8) and you're missing a gap between jamb and header (1/2 to 3/4), so I would add 1/4 +1/4 +1/2 to 3/4 for a 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 RO


Does it cost more to run a refrigerator on an extension cord?

Yes, it does cost you money using the extension cord.

Grabbing a random number out of the air, let's say the fridge draws 2 amperes. If you have a 50 ft. 16 AWG cord, that's 1.996 watts. If the cord was 50 ft. 14 AWG, that'd be 1.256 watts.

Using the energy star standard of $0.12 per KWh. The 16 AWG cord costs you $0.00023952 per hour, while the 14 AWG cord would cost $0.00015072 per hour.

There's also the problem that the manufacturer's documentation likely tells you not to use an extension cord.

NOTES:
- I have no idea how much current a mini fridge draws, so I simply grabbed a number out of the air. If somebody wants to comment with a realistic number, I'll rerun the calculations.

Using @CarlWitthoft's calculation of 0.7 amperes, and resistance values from NEC chapter 9 table 8. The cost can be figured as follows.

18 AWG cord

VD = Length x 2 x current x ohms per foot
VD = 50' x 2 x 0.7 A x 0.00795 ohms
VD = 100 x 0.7 A x 0.00795 ohms
VD = 70 x 0.00795 ohms
VD = 0.5565 volts

Watts = Volts x Amperes
W = 0.5565 V x 0.7 A
W = 0.38955 watts
kW = 0.00038955

Cost = kW x $/kW
Cost = 0.00038955 x $0.12
Cost = $0.000046746

16 AWG cord

VD = 70 x 0.00499 ohms
VD = 0.3493 volts

W = 0.3493 V x 0.7 A
kW = 0.00024451

Cost = 0.0002445 kW x $0.12
Cost = $0.0000293412

14 AWG cord

VD = 70 x 0.00314 ohms
VD = 0.2198 volts

W = 0.2198 V x 0.7 A
kW = 0.00015386
Cost = 0.00015386 kW x $0.12
Cost = $0.0000184632

So for every hour the fridge is actually running, you'll pay the above amount extra because of the cord.

If you're using the 18 AWG cord, and the fridge runs constantly for a year. The power lost to the cord would only cost about $0.40.

$0.000046746 x 24 hours = $0.001121904
$0.001121904 x 365 days = $0.40949496

So basically, reading this ridiculous answer has likely cost you more than the cord will.


What to know before installing cabinet and drawer dampers?

The door dampers you link to look very similar to the ones I have installed in my kitchen.

They are very easy to install - they just screw to the cabinet as shown. In fact this item shows it even more clearly.

They work very well and I don't see why you should pay any more.


Replacing 5 gang light switches that have 3 of them daisy chained together

The leftmost switch is completely separate, and its wires (including neutrals) need to be kept completely separate.  In this case, power comes into the box on one cable, and onward to the lamp on the other cable. Hook that up as you found it, and maintain a "hard wall" (virtual or physical; they make physical partitions for boxes) between those two cables and all the other wires in the box.  It is probably on a different circuit.

On the right side, the red wire from the wall is being split to serve the hot side of all 4 switches.  The mechanical method being used is to "daisy-chain" jumpers from one switch to the next, since the switch appears to support 2 wires per input. This is functionally the same as pigtailing; do either one as you please.

If in doubt, I recommend pigtailing, because it's easier for novices to understand.

Oh, that switch on the right in the photo.  That is a 3-way switch.  Black screw is common, and when replacing them, which wires go to which color screws is a huge deal. Position is useless since every switch model randomizes the positions.  If you are using it as a plain 1-way switch, use black and only 1 brass. If it's up when it should be down, use the other brass, or just flip the switch over.


We like it for bathrooms and other wet environments. It nails perfectly normally with an air nailer (usually 18g).

The only thing is that you can't cut it slowly, as it'll melt and you'll end up with a blobby mess at your cut. Cut briskly and all is fine.


Safe to mix wire gauges when installing dimmer switch?

The wire that comes on the switch / dimmer is UL listed for use on 15 & 20 amp circuits. They have a wattage limit many around 600W for incandescent / halogen type lights and 150W for the led type this is the limiting factor with dimmers put two many lights on the dimmer and they get hot and usually will shutdown if they don't have thermal limiterss the electronics in the switch fail before the wire is damaged so you are ok in this case joining the smaller factory installed wires from the switch to your 12 AWG wire.


How to splice into existing underground rigid metal conduit below ground and hide junction box?

314.29 exception allows listed boxes and handhole enclosures shall be permitted where covered by gravel, light aggregate or noncohesive granulated soil if there location is identified and accessible for excavation.  I have used landscape border at the ground level to identify the buried location. This has passed inspection just make sure to use a quality listed splice kit as this will be in water at times. Also get some thwn (most thhn is dual listed thhn / thwn)  and put it in conduit 1 stick of pipe will get you there.


Replacing grounded outlets with grounded metal junction box

The ground screws do not make contact with the box. They're intended to secure a pigtail from the ground wire bundle (or a passthrough loop). On modern outlets they'll be green.

Some outlets are self-grounding. They have small tabs or wire springs behind the screw mount ears that make a positive connection.

You can either replace your outlets with self-grounding ones, or simply attach the grounding conductor with the screws. The ground wires should still connect to the box if it's metal. That does appear to be a grounding screw hole in your photo. Be sure to use the proper screw (often 10-32 with self-cutting threads) to be legal.


Bathroom vent pipe going down instead of up? Is it OK?

It's not ideal but will probably work.

Hot air rises so the fan would be more efficient if it were in the ceiling or high up on the wall, but even if it's lower down the wall it should be able to remove most of the moist air satisfactorily.


House with some cracks on the exterior wall

If you haven't already, engage a home inspector who understands buildings and local conditions (especially with regard to soil). He or she will be able to offer a useful opinion on root causes, side effects and mediation strategy. (Depending on market conditions, the last part can form an important part of your price negotiation strategies, or convince you to walk away.)


Typically there is a valve opened by the lever pressing on the top center of the chair cylinder.  Maybe you need to push instead of pull, or maybe the lever needs to be pulled out before you use it.  They all have a different design.


Old oak stairs nail squeak - removing nails

Remove the nail and replace with a long deck screw and then patch over the hole to match the oak.


how to calculate sub breakers from the main breaker

The only "calculation" is "how many circuits are expected to draw how much, at the same time" - and if it's more than 200 amps, you'll need a bigger main, or two 200A panels, or something like that.

It's quite normal to have far more than 200A of breakers attached to a panel with a 200A main. Whether that ever becomes a problem of tripping the main is a matter of use patterns. As an example, it's rare for an electric range to have all burners and the oven on full power, at the same time.

Likewise, many 15 and 20 amp lighting and outlet circuits are rarely fully loaded.

Breakers (and wire) for "continuous" circuits are derated, so they only draw (at most) 80% of the rated breaker amps (breaker is sized for 125% of load - the math works out) if correctly sized.

Most appliances that get a dedicated circuit call for a breaker considerably larger than the actual running current. Starting currents may be much higher, but are rarely if ever applied to all circuits at the same time.

On the other hand, if you had 10 20-ampere electric resistance heating circuits (drawing 16 amps per derating) that would be all you could put on one 200 amp main (as the entire load is continuous) other than some load that would not turn on at the same time (say a big honking air conditioner, if the control systems are sane and don't run heat and A/C at the same time).


Is it safe to put a microwave in a walk-in closet?

There should be no problem assuming that you leave adequate clearance around the unit. Any appliance becomes a fire risk if there's flammable junk piled against it.

Also be diligent about vacuuming up lint and dust. The microwave's cooling fan will draw in more debris in a clothes closet than it probably would in a kitchen. You might blow it out periodically with compressed air.


Calculating time constant for storage-tank water heater

Best I can tell, your math is right. I've never done thermal R-C calculations before, but what I got agrees with your numbers. Here's a plot of the temperature over 10 days if it started at 140°F and ambient temperature is 70°F:

Basically what this is saying is there is a lot of energy in water. It takes about 8 BTU to heat a gallon of water only one degree F. It only takes about 0.2 BTU to heat the same volume of air one degree F. It takes about 400 times more energy to heat water than air per unit volume. Since the heat is so concentrated in the water's volume, it's easier to insulate and keep warm because there is less surface area.

Here's the thing though, this model assumes a sphere of liquid completely separated by insulation from the environment. In reality, you're going to have pipes, other components and the water itself which will also dissipate heat into the environment affecting the final temperature.

Here's a related discussion on a Thermos bottle


Should I use an iron angle or an iron plate to support brick above window?

A 3/8" plate may be a little too thick to fit without fattening up the brick joint. A 3 1/2"X 3 1/2"X 1/4" is a little overkill but would keep from creating a fatter joint. With all the brick I laid, for that size window that is what has ever been used. Although structurally the 3/8" plate would work too, I would still use the angle. Otherwise you may notice the joint grow in the area over the window. Also, as a side note, don't let any mason tell you he can't match the color of the existing mortar because of sand color or other BS like that. Sand does play in the color of the mortar, You can pick out whether it is orange or white or yellow with a close look, but the mortar mix itself is the main influence here for color. They are available custom color at masonry supply houses for just a few bucks more a bag. If the mason uses a "just add water" type mix, it WILL be gray... really gray. For 10 bucks in sand and 20 bucks for a bag of custom color if need be, it will cure the distraction.


Eliminating an outlet with 2 white 1 green and no black wires

In response to your question: DO NOT connect the two conductors together.

Two things you need to pay attention to. First make sure that the conductors have not been painted over. In many cases the conductors appear to be the same color, but by scratching and scrapping the true color will become apparent.

Second, because general house wiring is in NM and it's usually a black and white conductor, it is not against the NEC to have white conductors as current carrying conductors. It should be marked as a non-neutral. For example it is wrapped with black tape which may have fallen off or just not done. The only problem I see is if it has two white conductors, it generally indicates that that receptacle is on a switch or the branch circuit is tapped somewhere.

If you need to find which white wire is hot. You can do this by using a multi-meter and find which conductor has nominal voltage between that conductor and the ground (the bare or green wire). You might be able to use a non-contact voltage detector, but they can be a little unreliable. If you do find the hot conductor then you can mark it, then reconnect it and it wouldn't be a bad idea to find the tap and see what the "tinker" was up to.

Hope this helps and good luck.


Can I use horizontal 90 degree elbows to run a p trap along a wall?

The specifics of this largely depend on your local plumbing code, and so what is acceptable during an inspection depends on that. Your inspector will be able to tell you for sure.
Elbows
My reading of Ontario build code section 7.5.6.3 says this would not be allowed:

(c) the trap arm does not have a cumulative change in direction of more than 135°.

90+90 = 180°, so that's too much.
Trap Arm Length
The other factor is trap arm length, and that depends on pipe size. Since this is a vanity I'll assume 1 1/4". To make that work, you need:

1.5m (5 ft) maximum length
1:50 slope (eg, 1/4" drop for every 1')

Fix
One option, if there's space, is to use a 90+45 (135° total) to route the pipe out:

Or you could also do it the other way around, though that would require opening the wall and cutting into the vent stack:

And if you're going to cut into the wall anyway, another option is re-route the pipe to use a single 90:

Which one makes more sense is going to depend on space available and where the studs are.


Check the last receptacle before the switch, anyway

This sounds like a failed connection at the load-side neutral of the last receptacle, given the voltage readings observed.  My bet is that the receptacles were wired using backstabs, too, so if you pull out the last receptacle in the chain and find it back-stabbed, I'd change it over to pigtails to the side-screws, and then repeat for all the other receptacles in the house even, one circuit at a time, as builder-grade backstabs have a habit of stabbing folks in the back in the way you see here.

The other place I would check would be the junction box.  A wirenut is less likely to fail than a backstab, and the lights aren't going to be nearly as susceptible to brownout as a ceiling fan is (the ceiling fan starting current is probably causing enough voltage drop across the bad connection that the fan simply does not turn, while the bulb's simply going to be a bit dim at most), but it's worth checking while you are in there.


How do I fix my double tapped outside electric panel?

To simply look at this situation and immediately call it a violation, is incorrect.  While it may indeed be a violation, more investigation is required.
At the end of section 110.14(A) in the National Electrical Code (NEC), there is this short paragraph.

NEC 2008
110.14 Electrical Connections.
(A) Terminals. ...Terminals for more than one conductor and terminals used to connect aluminum shall be so identified.

Which means if the terminal allows multiple conductors, it should be labeled somewhere either on the terminal itself or in the documentation inside the panelboard.  So make sure you read all of the labels inside the panelboard, before marking this situation as a violation.
However, Section 408.41 of the NEC, clearly says that the grounded (neutral) terminal block is a violation.

408.41 Grounded Conductor Terminations. Each grounded conductor shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that
is not also used for another conductor.

There is an exception to this section, but it does not apply in this situation.
But wait, there's more...  Section 90.4 of the NEC, allows the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) to waive requirements or permit alternative methods.

90.4 Enforcement. ...The authority having jurisdiction for enforcement of the Code has the responsibility for making
interpretations of the rules, for deciding on the approval of
equipment and materials, and for granting the special permission
contemplated in a number of the rules.
By special permission, the authority having jurisdiction may waive
specific requirements in this Code or permit alternative methods where
it is assured that equivalent objectives can be achieved by
establishing and maintaining effective safety.

There is also 90.2(C), which may fit your situation better.

90.2(C) Special Permission. The authority having jurisdiction for enforcing this Code may grant exception for the installation of
conductors and equipment that are not under the exclusive control of
the electric utilities and are used to connect the electric utility
supply system to the service entrance conductors of the premises
served, provided such installations are outside a building or
terminate immediately inside a building wall.

It may also be important to note, that the installation is only subject to be compliant with the currently adopted code.  Which means if this was installed before these codes were adopted, this could be a legitimate installation.
The best thing for you to do, would be to contact a local licensed Electrician. Ask them to take a look, and make recommendations as to how this situation should be handled.  If you contact the local electrical inspectors office. They should be able to tell you when the work was completed and approved, and by whom. They should also be able to find any special notes supplied by the inspector, that would indicate if the inspector gave special permission in this situation.  If the work was completed by an unlicensed Electrician, the homeowner may be responsible for the repairs. But this would completely depend on your location, as well as many other legal factors that I will not discuss here.
Fixing this is not a DIY task.


Need Help Adding Another Switch to Lighting Circuit

You need 3 conductors (+ ground) between the old switch and your new switch. That's your biggest issue. Once you have that, there's inevitably a way to wire up two new 3-way switches to work.

If you are thinking about using 2 existing switches, there's a very low probability that you have the necessary third wire ("the traveller") available. (In the question you linked, the traveller is drawn in red.)

((edit to say that this answer is useless... I'll delete after the dust settles because the OPs comment is relevant.))


Material lighter than concrete for planters?

Concrete is a mix of four things:

Water
Portland cement
Sand
Gravel

The magic happens between the first two.  When the portland cement gets wet, it has a chemical reaction (which makes heat) that turns it from a powder into stone.

The last two are just filler materials. It improves strength, reduces cost, and greatly reduces the heat of curing, since sand and gravel don't get hot. Without this, the heat would be unmanageable.

Nowhere is it written you must use sand and gravel.  They make a variety of alternate filler materials where weight matters. First on my mind: crushed polystyrene.

Obviously if you are replacing sand and gravel with something else, that means you can't use pre-mix concrete.  Pre-mix concrete is a bag with the portland cement, sand and gravel pre-mixed.  Since you don't want the sand and gravel, this won't do.

For that matter, nowhere is it written you must use Portland cement.  For instance you can also use epoxy or a variety of other plastics (see TAP Plastics' website for quite the variety) -- either thick with a variety of fillers.

Or you can work "thin", with fiberglass as a very thin but structural material. You can also do "thick" fiberglass, where you do a skin of fiberglass over a polystyrene block "core" - the styrene provides form and compressive strength, and the fiberglass provides tensile strength and a strong skin.  Fiberglass boats are built this way.

No matter what you do, you'll need a form and a release agent to get the form to let go of the finished work.


All we can see is QP and hom breakers  we need to see the texts printed on the panel to provide help. The breakers need to be listed for the panel. , since this information is lacking a code compliant recommendation is impossible. Square D panel has Non CTL breakers and double stuff breakers but we need to know the type of panel to suggest a code compliant breaker.

Added with the panel photo;
 that is a 40-40 panel so you can not use double stuff or cheaters. The proper path forward would to be to add a sub panel to the side. Remove 2 breakers from that panel and use those slots to install a feeder breaker to your sub. The wires for those 2 breakers including the neutrals and ground can be pigtailed or spliced and pulled into the sub then hooked back up. You will need a 4 wire feeder 2 hot 1 neutral and 1 ground to the new sub panel. The ground and neutral need to be isolated so if your new panel has a bonding screw or copper jumper that would need to be removed. This is the only code compliant way to proceed with that panel.


Maybe I'm just sloppy, but I've never bothered to caulk the seam on a doubled up joist with treated wood.

There was one time I felt I needed to worry about that, but that was with a cantilevered deck using untreated wood.  In that case I just used aluminum flashing over the top of the joists.

I suppose if I were going to caulk it though, I would use a silicone caulk over a latex caulk since they generally adhere and hold up to water better (cleanup is messier, but it's a deck, so it probably doesn't matter).


Hairline crack below window, mostly vertical with a short horizontal segment

These type of cracks are common and certainly not major. IMO the size of the crack doesn't warrant taping. I would just spackle over it with a putty knife. Smooth it flat and let it dry. Work the spackle into the crack as much as you can. This will help prevent further cracking. After drying just use a damp sponge or cloth to wipe the excess off the surface along the crack. Touch up with paint if needed.
"Is there any downside to leaving the crack as is behind baseboard heater?"
There is no evidence that there are any structural issues from what you describe and show in the pic. I wouldn't be concerned about the crack behind the baseboard. This appears to be strictly a cosmetic issue.


Need help on how to remove dresser drawers!

Left side up, right side down; tug reasonably hard. The drawer should pop right out.


What is the name for a drill bit that makes conical holes?

That is a countersink. I would not call it a drill bit, as it's intended to open and shape a hole. Typically a through-hole of the smallest diameter is drilled, then the countersink is performed as a secondary operation. It is typically not advisable to try and "drill" a hole with a countersink.


Do retrofit ground wires need to be run in conduit?

Conduit or armor is only needed in certain cases

Retrofitted equipment grounding conductors (i.e. grounding conductors not run alongside the circuit conductors) only need the protection of conduit or cable armor if they are smaller than 6AWG and run exposed or otherwise subject to physical damage.   This is laid out in NEC 250.120(C):

  (C) Equipment Grounding Conductors Smaller Than 6 AWG.
  Where not routed with circuit conductors as permitted in
  250.130(C) and 250.134(B) Exception No. 2, equipment
  grounding conductors smaller than 6 AWG shall be protected
  from physical damage by an identified raceway or cable armor
  unless installed within hollow spaces of the framing members
  of buildings or structures and where not subject to physical
  damage.

Normally, unless you're dealing with particularly egregrious physical damage exposures, the armor on a Bare Armored Ground cable should suffice; upsizing the wire to 6AWG is also a suitable approach in many cases.


Is it okay to put 3/4" plywood over 1/2" wood subfloor?

There are no structural issues with putting extra subfloor on existing subfloor.  The only issue this would cause would be matching of the floor heights and possibly your first stair height.

(and trim - subfloor could make you reinstall/cut all trim)

(and make sure the old subfloor is even/flat or patch it first)


How do I diagnose and fix a toilet blockage

You have a blockage that is in the main pipe downstream of where toilet and the bathroom drain collect, so it is backing up both of them. Since the chemicals are not doing it, it looks like it has to be augered.


What are the advantages and disadvantages of elastomeric coatings versus shingles?

If what you are asking is if you should coat old shingles with a elastomeric coat instead of tearing off the old and replace with new, I think the answer is no. Such rubberized compounds are normally used for short term repairs (2 to 5 years) on damaged shingles on a pitched roof, and as a seam sealer on rolled roofing for flatter pitches.
If your shingles are failing, coming loose or have cupped or distorted with age, coating them most likely would be a very short term fix. The underside of the shingles will continue to fail, making an expensive coating project a waste of money in my opinion.

If I have missed the point of the question, I'm sorry. If the situation is different, the answer may change a bit. But normally, i'd never use an eleastomer coat over old worn out shingles.


Is it code to have a concrete floor in a bedroom?

A concrete floor is not necessarily a sub-floor, it is may be considered a finished floor material. From Ground floor construction: "A ground-level floor can be an earthen floor made of soil, or be solid ground floors made of concrete slab.   Ground level slab floors are uncommon in northern latitudes where freezing provides significant structural problems, except in heated interior spaces such as basements or for outdoor unheated structures such as a gazebo or shed where unitary temperatures are not creating pockets of troublesome meltwaters. Ground-level slab floors are prepared for pouring by grading the site, which usually also involves removing topsoil and other organic materials well away from the slab site. Once the site has reached a suitable firm inorganic base material that is graded further so that it is flat and level, and then topped by spreading a layer-cake of force dispersing sand and gravel. Deeper channels may be dug, especially the slab ends and across the slab width at regular intervals in which a continuous run of rebar is bent and wired to sit at two heights within forming a sub-slab 'concrete girder'. Above the targeted bottom height (coplanar with the compacted sand and gravel topping) a separate grid of rebar or welded wire mesh is usually added to reinforce the concrete, and will be tied to the under slab 'girder' rebar at intervals. The under slab cast girders are used especially if it the slab be used structurally, i.e., to support part of the building."

From the Subfloor construction section: "Floors may be built on beams or joists or use structures like prefabricated hollow core slabs. The subfloor builds on those and attaches by various means particular to the support structure but the support and subfloor together always provides the strength of a floor one can sense underfoot. Nowadays, subfloors are generally made from at least two layers of moisture resistant ('AC' grade, one side finished and sanded flat) plywood or composite sheeting, jointly also termed Underlayments on floor joists of 2x8, 2x10, or 2x12's (dimensional lumber) spaced generally on 16-inch (40.6 cm) centers, in the United States and Canada."

Concrete slabs "may" be used as a sub-floor, but they also are of adequate quality to be considered a finished floor.

To really answer your specific question, you could check out the 1,244 page Ohio Building Code yourself.

I searched through it and see no specific provision saying that concrete is unsatisfactory as a finished floor... The only subfloor requirements I saw had to do with fire resistance, load bearing capabilities, and they all appeared to be related to wooden subfloors from my brief look over.


What is the best way to drive the hard-cut nail into wooden baseboards to prevent splitting?

Definitely pre-drill the wood.  By removing the material, the nail doesn't have an opportunity to wedge open a crack.

To make it trouble-free long-term, make the drilled hole just a little smaller than the nail shaft for a tight fit.


How to fill void under bathroom vanity before installing laminate flooring and legged vanity

A few ideas to raise that area ~1/8":

Use a second layer of your flooring underlayment.
Cut cereal boxes to fit and staple in place.
Skim with a floor leveling product.
Purchase an inexpensive roll of vinyl flooring and cut it to fit. Staple it in place.


LED Flat panel wiring — Type NM/Romex or Lamp Cord

I gather that you're hanging the lights from cables or chains, and as such, it's possible for them to move or swing.  As such, you must use cordage for the connection from light to fixed ceiling box.

Cordage is - well, it's the type of electrical wiring you've been handling all your life.  Almost every appliance has a cord.  It's designed to flex.  It also costs a little more. It's not allowed as permanent wiring, except for a certain few exceptions.

Use of cordage to luminaires in open spaces is explicitly allowed by NEC 400.7 (now 400.10), and I make full use of it.  Further, nothing says you can't make them cord-and-plug-connected. They make cover plates that take receptacles, for 4" (across the corners) octagon boxes.

Don't let price tempt you into using a 2-prong cord.  The cable/chain hangers are NOT grounds. For 3-prong cords-with-plug, my favorite is Target's $5 8' extension cord, lop off the socket end and you're all set. It's stiff, though; McMaster-Carr has more flexible ones cheap, but the shipping!  If you're hardwiring both ends, your local electrical supply will have a variety of cordage, use at least 16 AWG.

However, cordage is not allowed above a drop ceiling or in any kind of plenum space: NEC 400.7 (now 400.12).  In that case you need to use one of the Chapter 3 wiring methods, typically a flexible metal conduit or prefabricated wire whip.

Lastly, ballast disconnects. Code requires any hardwired luminaire to connect via disconnect plugs. LEDs might be exempt because they're not technically fluorescents.  However, the principle is the same: the power supply/ballast is likely to fail at some point, and you need a way to de-energize with certainty.  Since you have to make a connection betweeen house wiring and driver anyway, make it through one of these.   These cost less than $1 each.


As Levi mentioned in a comment, a can of spray foam (urethane) will do the job quickly and easily. It'll last months, at least. I'd use the minimal expansion "window and door" variety to avoid a mess. If you do a careful job that doesn't require shaving lumps later, it'll have a reasonably smooth skin that would probably take paint, too.

Note that urethane foam, caulk, and glue are crazy sticky. They will remain on skin for days and clothing forever. Prepare accordingly.


How to seal swamp cooler ducting into house siding?

Stick closed-cell backer rod into the larger gaps. Then caulk over everything (small gaps as well as the backer rod) with a good exterior-grade caulk that looks good color-wise when connecting them.


Can you charge Bosch 18V batteries from your car?

Here's a/the bosch version - no idea if it fits your particular version of bosch 18V battery, which come in many incompatible versions, but it's the only one I can find.

Just making an "answer" to get the picture in...


Toilet float adjustment screw is stuck - how can I fix this?

If you opened the screw two far or unscrewed it lift up on the ball and tighten the screw. To me it sounds and looks like you backed the screw out of the actuator.
Fill valve kits that replace the valve and float in my area or only 12-12$ fill master and they come with the needed seals and instructions.
I would lift on the ball and try to tighten the screw to see if you can get it to go back into the plastic actuator.


Why do I measure voltage on a breaker that's off?

Almost certainly an induced voltage. Is this part of a Multi Wire Branch Circuit (MWBC)?  If you have black, red & white wires in the cable it's probably a MWBC. Common to have induced voltages in them.


How do I seal around an outdoor rated wall mounted luminary?

What's the proper way to seal a exterior wall mounted luminary from water entry?

Caulk it with a high-quality, paintable silicone caulk like this. I have been using this caulk for 8 - 10 years and have never had to re-caulk after applying it.


Smoothing OSB subfloor after hardwood and glue removal

If there are just a few patches here and there where it ripped out parts of the subfloor, something like FeatherFinish may be acceptable.

Personally, I have seen and have used 1/8" Lauan underlayment on rough surfaces or where the subfloor has been damaged. It is easy to install and creates an extremely smooth surface for adhesive tiles, laminated flooring, or engineered / hardwood floors.


Not likely.  The cabling it almost certainly secured with staples within the walls, ceilings, and floors.  Which will make it impossible to use the existing wiring to fish the new cables.


How do I convert an old Satchwell/Sunvic TLX2203 thermostat wiring to line voltage wiring?

Step one would be to confirm the function of the wires -- that might involve looking into the circuit breaker panel and the wiring compartment on the heaters. You might use a volt meter and/or a non-contact voltage detector to confirm which is the hot/live wire and which is the switched live/load wire going to the heater.
Based on the diagram you showed for the Sinope this device does not require a neutral connection. The neutral could be left capped so that it's safe but available for future use if needed. Then the live/supply wire would connect to one wire of the Sinope device as shown by the L1 connection; the switched live/load wire would connect to the other thermostat terminal. It appears this thermostat doesn't care which of its wires is the live and which is the switched output.
It looks as if the cable directly enters the old thermostat without any wiring box inside the wall. The Sinope appears to use pigtails for its connection -- it might not have a built-in junction box as the old thermostat did. In this case you may need to cut in an "old work" junction box to provide wiring space inside the wall. Pictured below is an old work box made by Carlon (photo from Gordon Electric Supply).


Why should I use advanced nails instead of wood screws for strength?

It is all about time. In this case, the time required to drive a screw, instead of the time to drive a nail with a loaded nail gun. Drive 10 screws, and who cares if it takes a few seconds longer to drive each screw. Drive 10,000 screws, and it starts to matter.


Can I cap old, live wiring to remove the switch?

That's a good start, but you will still have live wires running around in your walls for no constructive purpose.

Find the breaker that controls the circuit, and turn it off.  Check all your other installed loads (sump pump, etc.) to make sure everything else still works - the several heaters should be the only thing on the breaker, but sometimes people do odd things.  Once you're sure of that...

Turn off the main, take off the panel front (be warned that if your main breaker is inside the panel, some metal parts inside the panel are still energized!!)  Then pull the breaker off the panel if it unclips (as it's easier to work with this way), remove the wires from the breaker, cap the wires in the service panel, put the breaker back with a N/C label on it, and put the panel front back on.


What adapter do I need to connect Mr. Heater F273704 to a LP gas tank that has

The left-side connector on the upper hose is called POL. The connector on the lower hose is called ACME or type 1.

Have you tried the POL hose yet? I have not yet met a propane tank that accepts the ACME/type 1, but was not also compatible with the POL. Look into the valve on your tank. If it's threaded on the inside then the POL will work. Don't forget: the ACME uses a right-hand thread (rightie-tightie) but the POL uses a left hand thread. In other words POL must be turned in the "loosen" direction to tighten it.


How to repair a door with patches of stripped-off finish?

Remove the door knob and latch mechanism.
Sand the damaged area, focusing on feathering down the edge between the old finish and the now unfinished areas. Start with an 80 grit and work in steps up to 120G or even 150G depending on how much you love this door. Be careful not to get too aggressive, this looks like a veneered hollow-core door and you want to leave some wood on there.
Clean the dust off the area. You can use a dry lint-free rag or tack cloth but don't get the unfinished part wet.
Get ready to refinish. I'd choose a water-borne polyurethane in a sheen that matched the existing finish, probably satin. Lay on a light coat with a good brush. Let it dry/cure. Lightly sand with a very fine grit sandpaper, clean and apply a second coat. Let it dry.
Re-install your latch and knob. Don't tell anyone about it and they'll never know.

PS: If you used regular masking (cream colored) or some other tape, try using blue masking next time. Also in hindsight you could have clamped wood on both sides and drilled a pilot hole through both so you could come at each side of the big hole from the finish side.


You probably don't need to add the fourth vent. If the fan is rated for 100cfm then 4 inlets will pull roughly 25cfm, 3 about 33cfm and so on. As long as the ducting for the 3 vents are of sufficient size and length to handle 33 cfm it should be just fine. I don't have my chart with me at the moment but a 4" pipe pulling 33 cfm should be good up to 25'. A larger outlet pipe will cut back on noise.


The best solution is to actually change the single gang box to a double gang box and install a second unswitched duplex outlet.  This is not actually difficult for an experienced electrician, the DIY skill level is moderate.  The total draw is only near max, if both dishwasher is on dry and hot water gets used, but insta-hots actually only run for a very short cycle if used.  It shouldn’t trip if there’s nothing else on the circuit.

That said, I used this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-6-Outlet-Grounded-In-Wall-Adapter-White-54947/203742151 or equivalent... specifically a model tho with a center screw, that’s critical for this application.  If it’s the typical garbage disposal/dishwasher under sink plug that is a half switched duplex outlet, then the other two plugs on the switched row of the adapter are pretty useless.  Regarding 15 vs 20 amp ratings, I think you won’t find 20 because it’s a NEMA 5-15 pin configuration.

(Footnote: I plan to change this when we remodel the kitchen and the cabinets are out to the 2-gang 2 duplex outlets described at the beginning, due to the location of the stud and the side they chose to nail the original to—mine was not the simple case of make a 1 gang into a 2 gang, mine actually has to change to the other side of the stud as well, I opted to use the adapter and have not had any problem.)


What is the name of the fastener that looks sort of like a screw and sort of like a nail?

It's called spiral shank nail or screw nail.


Is is safe to deal with wiring after only shutting off the room's fuse, but not the main switch?

And here is why you check it before hand, even though you have turned off that room.  People get into Junction boxes and re-wire - joining two separate circuits into one - in that case one circuit in the house can be fed from two breakers (as long as they are on the same phase).  Always check with testor - and NOT JUST  a proximity induction testor - but an actual touch the wires testor.  OK.  Be safe.


What is the most common length for stair nosing to overhang?

1" to 1-1/4" is fairly standard regardless of location, but it's mostly personal preference. You don't normally consider the nosing when working out rise and run, as they typically only apply to the stringers (which have no nosing).

Even if the nosing was considered, the rise and run don't change since you'd measure from one nose to the next.


Can a GFCI outlet intentionally and explicitly be used as a switch without violating code?

This is a great question.

Of course the answer is no, but the NEC does not say you can't verbatim. You have to consider the intent of the code. To do that we have to look at Article 100 Definitions and what is a definition of a switch and what is the definition of a GFCI and what is the definition of a receptacle. Then you also have to reference NEC Articles 404 Switches and 406 Receptacles.

The point is switches and receptacles are two separate types of devices and it never states otherwise. You might argue that "it doesn't say I can't". But you have to look at Article 404.11 Circuit Breakers as Switches. It identifies that you can use a circuit breaker as a switch if it meets certain parameters.

So the "intent of the code" is that if it isn't defined in 404 that it can be used as a switch, then it can't be used as a switch. We could probably get this written into the code if we submitted it to the committee. Then it would get it written in within the next 6 to 9 years if they found it relevent.

If this answer doesn't convince you then consider this question. If I have and incandescent lamp inline with some other devices can I use it as a switch by screwing and unscrewing it. The NEC doesn't say I can't.


I would second the comments recommending a second opinion.  A sump is in the basement to allow water to be drained away if it accumulates around the footings.  If there's no water there it quite probably means that your water table is low enough that there's not seepage.  It also would indicate that you have decent drainage around the house and rain water is running away and not down along the foundation walls.

Even if there is a blockage in your sump I would expect there to be some water in the bottom if you currently have a water problem.  Blockages often involve crushed weeping tile or other drainage pipes.  However, it would not usually be a complete blockage and if you have a have water on the outside trying to get in at least some of it should be seeping into your sump even through damaged draining lines.


Is it okay to have AC/Furnace intake suck air from wall cavities?

I don't think it's illegal if done right. The problem is that it seems to have been done wrong. If you have construction debris in the intake that's lazy and sloppy at best. Eventually some of that junk is going to end up in your AC unit with predictably bad results. Let's hope your filter is a good one.

I have seen (shudder) old houses where the intake went along cavities but the builder or owner had neglected to ensure that every last hold along the joist run had been sealed. In the next cavity over was fiberglass insulation. You don't want to be breathing that stuff.


Sanding between coats of water-based finish

sanding between coats should just be a light rub, usually it's less effort to use a hand block, or a sanding sponge than to lift a power tool,  you only need to remove the sheen, when the paint looks mostly dull that's enough rubbing.

Water based finishes can take considerable time to set, especially during cold or humid weather.  If you ignored the makers advice for suitable painting conditions you will have to wait longer than the label suggests for the paint to be hard enough to sand.


I need help identifying hot and neutral feed wires for sub panel installation

Voltage
If the wires are hooked up in the main panel, then all you'll need is a multimeter/voltmeter.

Carefully position the wires so that there's no chance of them touching each other, or anything else.
Turn on the breaker in the main panel.
Carefully measure the voltage between each set of wires.
Turn the breaker back off.

When measuring voltage between the two ungrounded (hot) conductors, you'll measure about 240 volts. When measuring between either ungrounded (hot) conductor and the grounded (neutral), you'll measure about 120 volts.
Continuity
Alternatively, if you're not comfortable working with live wires (and really, who is).

Make sure the breaker in the main panel is OFF.
Using a multimeter set to measure resistance or continuity, check for resistance/continuity between the grounding conductor and the other wires.

You'll measure infinite resistance (or open) between the grounding and ungrounded (hot) conductors, but you'll measure a small resistance (or closed) when measuring between the grounding and grounded (neutral) conductor.
Visual inspection
Examine the wires carefully. If they are part of a cable assembly, one of the wires may have stripes on the insulation or some other markings. If these are individual wires, there's likely no markings unless the installer marked them with paint or tape.

Once you find the grounded (neutral), mark it with white paint or white electrical tape.


How to tighten big wires into circuit breaker holes?

No guessing is allowed.

The breaker's labeling or specification sheet will call out a specific torque you must use.  Torque it to that spec.  And no other.  If you lack the equipment to do so, get it.

I would say look closely inside there while you turn the screw on an empty one, so you have a clear understanding of how the mechanism works.  The wire flaring out like that suggests it may be missing the mechanism.

Also, as Programmer66 suggests, make sure that particular hole isn't broken; try another hole.


Should I bond pipes to ground in detached building subpanel?

You need to bond the subpanel ground bus to the plumbing

You will need to run a bonding conductor from the subpanel ground bus to a grounding clamp on the plumbing, as per NEC 250.104(A)(3):

  (3) Multiple Buildings or Structures Supplied by a Feeder(s) or
  Branch Circuit(s). The metal water piping system(s) installed
  in or attached to a building or structure shall be bonded to any
  of the following:

  (1) Building or structure disconnecting means enclosure
  where located at the building or structure

  (2) Equipment grounding conductor run with the supply
  conductors

  (3) One or more grounding electrodes used

  The bonding jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with
  Table 250.102(C)(1), based on the size of the feeder or branch-circuit conductors that supply the building or structure. The
  bonding jumper shall not be required to be larger than the
  largest ungrounded feeder or branch-circuit conductor supplying the building or structure.

This ensures that if the plumbing somehow became energized, the breaker would trip and disconnect the fault, instead of leaving the plumbing floating off to shocking voltages.

Don't worry about parallel paths here

As long as you have one and only one neutral-ground bond, located at the main service entrance, you are safe from parallel-path problems.  Since ground wires don't normally carry current, they are free to run in parallel with each other, metal plumbing systems, metallic structural elements, and so on.


How do I get power into my kitchen cabinet?

I'd use the range hood box as a junction box.  It meets the code definition of accessible:

Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building.

And in most places should pass just fine.  I'd use BX because that MDF hood cover is rather easily removable, and treat the wiring to the new outlet as 'exposed'.


Should I have a 15 amp breaker instead of a 20 due to aluminum wire?

There's a decent discussion about making aluminum wire connections over here: What's the best way of replacing a plug or switch in a house with aluminum wiring?

If there is #12 Al wire on the circuit, the breaker should be 15A. #10 aluminum wire can have a 20A breaker, and you shouldn't normally see anything like #14 aluminum. Or you could just pull new copper wire and permanently disconnect the aluminum. Your home insurance company might not even cover you if they discover that you have aluminum wiring on your branch circuits. Aluminum is still common for the big feeders into your main panel, though, and that's fine because it's terminated appropriately by the electrician.

Any device that aluminum wire is connected to should be approved for connecting to aluminum wire, and any connections between aluminum and copper wire have to be made with special connectors. There are different types. Some are crimps that compress the wires very tightly to "cold weld" them together, some are special wire nuts, and you must use aluminum oxide inhibitor. The oxide inhibitor is included in the special purple wire nuts that are rated to connect aluminum and copper.

One of the issues is that aluminum and copper have different rates of thermal expansion and contraction. Combine that with the tendency for corrosion when aluminum and copper are in constant contact, and the fact that aluminum oxidizes (rusts) very rapidly if oxide inhibitor isn't used. All the inconsistent expansion and contraction and corrosion helps to loosen connections. Add the fact that aluminum oxide is an effective electrical insulator and you have a lot of potential for connections to go bad over time, leading to overheating and fires. Loose electrical connections get hot (and might also produce sparks), and heat starts fires (as do sparks, since they're hot), etc.

If you're going to leave the aluminum wire in place, though, maybe you want to avoid the twist-on connectors (wire nuts) and use the cold-weld crimp-on connectors, then seal the connections up really well with something like lineman's rubber splicing tape.

You don't want this in your walls:


Can a buried electric line cross a buried sewer line?

Here it's not an issue:  Sewer lines have to be below frost line, so they are put at 8 feet.  Electrical lines are, I think 3 feet, and can be less if protected.  This of course makes it difficult to run a sewer line after the electrical is in.

I would try very hard to keep buried lines from crossing.  SOMETIME one is going to be dug up for maintenance.


Should porch roof pitch always match house roof pitch?

I think a lower pitch would look fine, and is in fact seems to be a common design choice for a porch. I think the grey metal roof would work better on a low slope roof than asphalt shingles, but won't be cheap.

We have a 3-in-12 pitch roof and have used good quality asphalt shingles. Perhaps I didn't demand the proper underlayment treatment and our house does have inferior roof decking at 3/8" thick plywood, but we have had problems with leaks.  The slightest dip or discontinuity in the roof decking has led to leaks.


There are some types of spackle out there that claim they do not need primer over it, you may be safe with that, it is always recommended to primer under wall paper, it aids in the removal process later. If you have no paint on hand at all, get primer, if you have any latex paint around at all, that will suffice for a spot on the wall here and there.


Will I see any performance gains if I reconfigure my thermostat to control the second stage of my 2 stage furnace?

Without the thermostat telling it, the furnace has to guess how much heat you need, and those guesses may not always be right. The thermostat will know how far you from your target temperature and know which stage you need to be using. That means a thermostat wired up for both stages will heat up faster when you get back from vacation, and the temperature stays more constant all other times.


I've usually had good luck with a decent quality wire stripper with NM sheathing cutters.  After you clamp down on the cable you just have to pull a lot harder than on NM to break the last bits of sheathing that go around the ground.  I have something similar to this:

Image from Home Depot, does not constitute a recommendation for the vendor, the manufacturer, or the model pictured.


Can I make a RH inswing exterior door into a Left hand reverse outward swing

a Right Hand Reverse door is the same as a Left Hand (push) door.  You will have to flip the frame around or re-prep it for the strike and hinges though.


Using something like this you better be willing to practice and make sure you have the best tool.   You can score and snap and it can be clean.   But it can go the other way too and you can have tail pieces, cracks or flaky edges.
We have a tile guy that uses one of these from the 1960s and he sharpens the cutting wheel daily.   His lines are great and it saves time.   However I have seen many many people use these and I have had to tell them that "hey that cut is crap, don't use it on my floor".
So if you are going this way, you better practice and make sure it is worth it.   Those are some big @ss tiles and imperfections will be noticeable.
If I were you I would keep the saw where I was laying down the main floor (not the shower).   Honestly if you are making that many cuts in your shower area for that large of tile you have not planned well.
Also know that if you want to snap the tiles - them being porcelain - you will have to score the crap out of them.   You will have to make sure the scoring wheel is sharp and is digging deep and you will have to practice putting pressure on the entire mechanism.   Putting pressure equally and holding the tile at 24" is really a two person job.
So can you snap tiles and have them look great?   Yes - for sure.   Seen it done.   Is it probably the most reliable method?   Probably not.   Would I prefer a wet saw?   Yes.   Can wet saws chip porcelain?   For sure.
The answer you want has to do with the quality of the tool you will buy and the amount of time you will invest (or money for scrap tiles) to use it correctly.   The guy I hire for high end tiling jobs uses a snapper...  At the same time I hire a lot of other guys that do a great job and none of them do.


Your assessment would be correct as it sounds like a bad switch to me. Age is really no factor. I cannot begin to tell you the number of new products I've bought and/or installed over the years that we're bad straight out of the box.

$2.00 and 5 minutes and you should be switching right again!!!


How can I prevent post support brackets from creaking under foot traffic?

Like Ed Beal suggested in a comment, you mostly need to drive your shims in more assertively. However, I'd use plenty of construction adhesive as well.

Remove the shims now in place if they'll come out with a little effort.
Blow or vacuum out all dust and debris.
Inject plenty of heavy-duty construction adhesive into all gaps.
Firmly drive pressure-treated wood or synthetic shims into any gap, above or below the metal brackets.
Add more adhesive around the shims to lock them in place.

24 hours later everything should be really well stabilized and silent.


How do I remove window sill stop block on double-hung vinyl window?

Got the window all broken down, cleaned up, new screws, new caulk, new weather stripping, cleaned out all weep holes and will put it all back together tomorrow as the plastic pieces are drying now. Thanks again. *Now I wait...Next 10 days is straight rain, so we will see if water leaks on wood or gets in somehow. I will not put the wall back together until I know it is no longer getting wet.
Rusted Corner Screw
Poor caulking job allowed water to seep in
Caulked and sealed new screws
Snapped all stop sills and cleaned up pieces back in


1) Is there any purpose for this valve other than for removing the pressure gauge?

NO, the valve is only there for isolation of the gauge.
Gauges like that have a high failure rate (for various reasons) and often need to be replaced "on the run"; that is, while the boiler is still in operation.

  2) Is this a huge/expensive/messy accident waiting to happen if I don't do something about it?

The construction of that type of gauge uses a Bourdon Tube, in which the process fluid (e.g. hot water, steam) is actually present inside the gauge. Failure of the gauge could indeed be messy and expensive, if you could not isolate it.

For both cases, the valve is an important system component.

  is this something better left to an expert?

It is a simple job, but depending on application and your locality (plumbing/boiler code) it may not be legal for someone other than a pro to do it. Check with the local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ).


How far apart should nails be when installing baseboards?

We usually tack the baseboard in place with one nail at each side, and then find the studs with a stud sensor, marking on the baseboard as we go.

Alternately, I would think that every 12 inches would be sufficient. We also caulk the top of the baseboards with paintable latex caulk (which helps with dusting later), and that helps hold the baseboard to the wall too.

With shoe moulding (which I seriously recommend, especially on 2nd stories and pier on beam structures), it doesn't matter since the nails go into the baseboard first.


Why is the water from my cold water taps warm?

If the cold tap is warm for a while and then cools back to normal, it is a real possibility that you have leak in the hot water line, under the slab. Overnight the hot water leak will beat up the area which includes (usally) the cold water pipe. Depending on where the leak is at, the cold water tap will be cold and then warm when first turned on and then cold again. This is called a slab leak. I have had three. It's almost always the hot line that leaks.


Sauna heater conduit from heater to sauna wall

Every electric supply house I have been to sells LFMC by the foot, it's about $2/foot. Call it "metallic liquidtight", if you call it LFMC they often look at you funny and don't know what you are asking for.  I wouldn't even try a big box store and chance getting something imported that doesn't satisfy UL360 and NEC 501 as specified in your document.

I would stop the NM before entering the sauna, NM is not allowed in "damp" locations, and I'm sure the sauna would qualify as such. Being in a junction box that opens inside a damp location is normally interpreted as in the damp location, and I wouldn't attempt to argue that with an inspector.


Is it OK to use gray PVC electrical conduit for low voltage wiring?

Your method is legit and there’s no need for additional markings. All our phone and Ethernet are in EMT   I paint it blue to distinguish.
You can spray paint it if you really like overspray, but it seems to me like a recipe for a hatchet job unless you use a LOT of paint. Hatchet jobs are a code violation, NEC 110.12.
I would brush/roll it after dragging the PVC through some green Scotchbrite to mar the surface so the paint has something to grab.


Running wire into a shed some distance away

Yes, you will either need a subpanel for the shed, or you will need to serve only one circuit of each voltage.

All the receptacles attached to a 30A breaker must be 30A.  You cannot hang a bunch of 15 and 20A receptacles off a 30A circuit, except by having the 30A circuit feed a subpanel.

So for instance you could run a single 120V 20A circuit, say, on two 12 or 10 AWG wires. Then a single 240V 30A circuit on 10 or 8 AWG wires, plus one ground wire for all.  Those will fit in a 1-1/4 conduit just fine, and be easy to pull.  I've pulled 12 12/10AWG wires 100 feet in a 1" conduit and that was easy.

Or you could run four 10 or 8 AWG wires and serve off the 30A breaker to a subpanel. The subpanel can be any size (larger then 30A obviously). It will need to have a main breaker in it, because you need a local shutoff switch and that's the easiest way to do it.   You will need to keep ground and neutral separate inside the subpanel, and add a local grounding rod at the shed.  I myself would run 4 AWG Aluminum because it will leave lots of headroom to 50A, and the lugs on the panels are aluminum anyway.

Also I'd get a fairly big panel.  Panel space is cheap, I'd go at least 20.  Some of them even throw in free breakers.

Adding an Image of Sub Panel Service Diagram with notes..
Borrowed from here > Link


Non-metallic conduit support on horizontal surface in inaccessible space

You might want to check with the inspector first, but I'm going to say they'll allow it.  NEC allows PVC to be supported by passing through framing members, so I'm guessing they'd allow it to be supported where running over framing members (especially in inaccessible areas).

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring and Protection
Article 352 Rigid Polyvinyl Chloride Conduit: Type PVC
352.30 Securing and Supporting. PVC conduit shall be installed as a complete system as provided in 300.18 and shall be fastened so that movement from thermal expansion or contraction is permitted. PVC conduit shall be securely fastened and supported in accordance with 352.30(A) and (B).
(B) Supports. ...Horizontal runs of
PVC conduit supported by openings through framing members
at intervals not exceeding those in Table 352.30 and
securely fastened within 900 mm (3 ft) of termination
points shall be permitted.


The only real solution here is to actually measure the amount of current being drawn by the circuit.

This could be done by any number of jury-rigged methods using a multi-meter. But the safest, most effective would be to use a "clamp-amp" or "amprobe" style meter:

If the meter shows a load around the rating of the breaker (15 A), then you need to remove some of the loads on the circuit, and or have the rooms split into two circuits.

If the meter shows a load far below 15 A, then it's likely that the breaker is faulty and needs to be replaced.


How do I smooth out where painted wallpaper meets wall?

I would clean the area really well, then use normal drywall mud with an 8" knife.  Mix in a little plaster of paris and feather like you would a normal taped joint.  The plaster will make the drywall compound really hard and less likely to crack on the seam.


What to do with metal fascia wrap when attaching ledger board for a pergola?

You should probably leave all weatherproofing in place. The key is to prevent water from draining into unwanted areas, which means that you may want to add flashing to move the drip edge outward and over the ledger. Whether and how you'd do that depends on your pergola design.

You may also opt to simply seal all penetrations through the fascia cover by sandwiching a rubber or foam layer. Moisture will have a tendency to soak into that joint and through nail or screw holes.


Material that lets air and sunlight in & keeps rain out?

Sunlight, no. "Breathable", yes. That's what "Gore-tex" fabric is famous for. They were the first / biggest, but now many other suppliers have released similar breathable waterproof fabrics made from PTFE (a.k.a. "teflon") fibers. I don't think however that Gore-tex makes anything clear or even opaque.

And go get a second mortgage on your house if you want a large tarp made of it; the cost is very very high.


How can I mend my metal tables broken arm?

A photo would help us visualize the broken part, but provided there's enough surface area, JB Weld should work. It's an epoxy that can join metals.


Do I need to do anything to protect my pool during a rare freeze?

I honestly doubt that it will freeze over in that time, as the water will take some time to get anywhere near freezing temps.

If you are worried anyway, a good idea is to leave the filter pump running. Water that is still will more easily freeze over.

Of course, if you were truly worried, you could make it into a salt water pool, dropping the freezing temperature by a few degrees more.


Is it possible that we are releasing fibers?

Anything is possible, but it is highly unlikely that incidental contact would release fibers. It is also highly unlikely that there is any appreciable amount of asbestos there (if any at all).
There is a ZERO percent chance, assuming there is asbestos there, that the scenario you are describing would in any way release enough asbestos fibers for you to worry about a health concern.


Use some sheet metal, rats can and will chew through wood, plastic and foam very easily. Especially if they are already established in the shed. You can bend the sheet metal over and fasten it from both sides.


Should I seal a brick chimney breast on party wall

Usually the main purpose of a sealer is to protect against moisture. However, in your case the weather is not the issue, but rather appearance.

Silicones were developed to penetrate the brick and provide a coating to protect the brick. Those sealers were rated by how much silicon was in the sealer...2%, 3%, etc. The more, then the more expensive.

Clear sealers come in 3 types: 1) acrylic, 2) polyurethane, and 3) epoxy.

1) Acrylic is the cheapest and probably best for your use. It not too thick so it doesn’t look like a coating, but still gives the finish and protection against dust, etc.

2) Polyurethane will be too thick and give a thick appearance.

3)Epoxy is used primarily indoors because it does not have any UV protection AND you can select a finish: gloss, flat, etc., but is a heavy coating that does not allow the wall to “breathe”. If you use an epoxy sealer, make sure the wall is extremely dry.

Here’s an article that explains it better:

https://www.masonrymagazine.com/blog/2018/09/01/coatings-sealants-and-graffiti-protection/