Is storing hot water over 140F a regional requirement?

It's a new problem.

First, do anything you want. It's your health and there's no legal mandate, yet.

The legionella issue is actually quite new.  The disease itself wasn't even identifed until 1976 at the US Bicentennial in Philadelphia, when a bunch of people at a hotel got sick and died.  Only this mass-casualty event made anyone notice and start to look at microscope slides; the disease has no doubt been active for much longer.

It has taken them decades to figure out how it even operates.

Historically, the advice regarding water heaters has been to keep it cool enough that you can't scald people; particularly children or the elderly who may not have the wherewithal to escape/stop too-hot water.  (Consider an Alzheimers sufferer who is protesting anyway; you can't tell a bona-fide "too hot" protest from the rest.)

Only quite recently was it understood that it breeds in water heaters, and can enter your system by breathing atomized/evaporated water in a shower. And it took years more for the science to get solidified to where government agencies feel comfortable making it official messaging.  So "only in the last 5-6 years".

What also slowed the government proclamations is the scalding factor.  Stopping legionella meant a grisly compromise between scalding risk and legionella risk; however this is resolved either a) by tankless heaters, or b) blending/safety valves on all outlets  Only recently have those become commonplace (because the government incentivized these, because of this). So the government was very reluctant to start blasting the "140F/60C" message.

Part of the problem, any time you put out PSA messaging like that on a large scale, is you are speaking to a very, very, very stupid populace, and much of that stupidity comes from the "heard it on the grapevine" method by which information is repeated incorrect or incomplete. That makes the government even more reluctant to blast a message.

As a result, your confusion is understandable.

You cannot conquer the legionella problem without also thinking about the scald problem, otherwise you're merely "out of the frying pan, into the fire".
Legionella grows when water is at a certain midrange of temperature. Keeping water there as short a time as possible is key.
Fit blending valves on all outlets and crank it to 140F/60C; done.
fit a master blending valve at the water heater and crank it up.
Go with tankless heater(s); done.  This assures water doesn't dwell anywhere long enough at the right temperatures to breed legionella. Except if you just slap a tankless where the tank was, that can raise some annoyances and doesn't allow the best benefits of tankless to work in your favor. For that, a little more system design is called for.


What to do about a damaged stipple ceiling?

What I ended up doing was putting up batons on the ceiling and plasterboard over the top. We did this with the other wall which was questionable too.

Benefits here are that the finish is much better once finished, and it's decidedly less plastering than doing the entire wall.

The cost was likely higher than if we had plastered, but the end result was much better.

If we had decided to plaster over, the stipple paper would have come up relatively easily with a scraper and some elbow grease.


Is it ok to prime subfloor under engineered wood?

I will normally seal underlayment in bathrooms and kitchens. This helps to for protect from moisture problems that are normal for these locations. I have not had any negative problems with sealing and in some cases I think it has helped with vinyl.


How do I install a countertop with a large overhang without using a corbel or post?

I have gone through this on about 20 installs and have gotten better from my first ones.   The thicker the L-bracket the better.   A lot of time the big box doesn't sell ones that are made for countertop jobs.   This is something I usually order online because I get these cheaper and better quality.

I am going to give you pointers based on you making these as invisible as possible without the granite company scribing for them.   For the granite installer to do this you would have needed to be set up during their measurements.   They could have a "wide" scribe but I wouldn't go this way.

Steps:

Take current countertop off cabinet.
Take drawers or anything else out and out of the way.
On the top of your cabinets where the L bracket is coming out cut out a indentions so that your L bracket is level with the top of the cabinet.
Even with the bottom of the cutouts you are going to install a 2x4 (or 6) across the back inside of the cabinet.
Great to get screws on this but I have used liquid nails before.   (prop it up while glue dries if you go this way)
Test it out.  Make sure that L bracket is level and lines up (you can do this before glue dries if glueing) - you are installing the L bracket inside the cabinet.
Do not screw in L brackets!!!
When countertop guys arrive set the L brackets in place and let them install counter on top of them.   This will assure they are positioned to support the counter.   You could be microns off and will need to support that with a shim on the 2x side.
Use a rubber shim if needed (seen wood shims fall out), and screw it in.
Your installers may want you to epoxy the counters to the L bracket... don't.   This does nothing but make it harder to uninstall.

Note for your install you want it out about 10-12 inches - I will say 12 to be safe.   12 inches plus 1.5 inches for 2x plus .5 inch misc.... means you need a 14" L bracket.   I suggest you hit the side of the L bracket with an angle grinder on the corners facing the seated people to curve them out.

Also you want these about 6 inches from edges - can get away with 8 inches - you are really right on the edge of needing three brackets and someone doing a conservative install would use three.

Edit for one-off challenges:

  It is on the end of the island.

This should be installed the same way if possible.

  I have a sink that is going to take up a lot of room.

I have installed A LOT of undermount sinks...  If I install them the way I want to I brace them with 2x4s.   I could take a picture of my kitchen undermount in my home and I have a 2x4 on each side.   Why?   Usually you have about 2" of play on each side (I actually put the 2x4 after install/caulk - so about 2 days after).   For normal big double basin undermount you will get that 2 inches.   Given your sink is big if you put a lot of stuff in it (water) the caulk will not be able to hold it up.  Caulk is a really a lazy way for granite guys to hold sinks up anyway.  I actually first thought of doing this on one my installs after one of my sons was born the wife wanted to use sink to wash baby...

I calculated about 40-50 pounds in the sink.   So being paranoid I added the 2x4s.   I have done this is 20+ kitchens with zero failures when before I had people calling up about caulk failing and shaky sink.   So get these in there if you can, helping you brace your L bracket is just a plus.

  I really don't have room because of sink or drawers.

This is OK and have ran into this issue because of drawers.  Time to get your creative juices going.   What we have done in the past is router a 2x4 with beveled edges and some patterns and installed it as a decorative edging to the top outer part of the cabinet.   You won't even see it unless you bend down and look under the island and it is basically the exact same install as up above - albeit you will have to chisel out the top for brackets, you will need 1.5" less length on L bracket and your island actually isn't overhanging as much.   I would say the minimum depth here is 1" plus island backer if you don't want to go with 2x4 - the "deluxe island L brackets" might call for 1.5" though.

  Can I use a T bracket?

Yes yes yes.   T-brackets are better than L brackets because they do a better job innately at making sure the supported material is aligned to the bracket.   Like I mentioned above you will probably have to shim to get your L bracket aligned.   You would have to do the same thing with the T-bracket but it will force you to shim where the L-bracket will just move to whatever is pushing the most.   The reason it was not mentioned is that the question involved installing a sink, and you would not be able to use a T-bracket.   Also it is much harder to find a quality T-bracket for countertops, especially longer ones.


No loop to hang dish washer drain hose higher

I think you have the right idea. It can't go behind the dishwasher - there is normally no space at all between the dishwasher and the wall.

Typically a dishwasher will be mounted next to a sink. The hose should be long enough that you can loop it up on the side or behind the sink so that it goes up to the bottom of the counter, or at least a few inches higher than the sink drain.

If the hose won't stay up by itself, screw a piece of metal or plastic strapping to the side or back of the sink cabinet near the top and loop it loosely around the hose to hold it up. Just don't loop it so tight that it crimps the hose.


Can I change the color of the mortar in my brick wall?

If you really wanted to, you could rake out the mortar and re-point with a coloured mortar of your choice.

That does seem a little excessive though, as you say it was recently built.

I'd be wary about using a stain, personally, for fear of also staining parts of the bricks.


How should I lay ceramic tile in a room where one side slants?

If you have a floor that is sinking or sagging, I would seriously consider whether it is sufficiently able to handle tile. If the floor has a bounce to it, you're going to constantly be having grout breaking out no matter whether you level it or not. Tile requires more infrastructure than other flooring options, so, without knowing I'd at least say reconsider or have an expert at least look at it for you first.


Connect 1 power source to 2 sets of 2-light switch

Ascii, nice.  There's many ways to wire it depending but this is the most straightforward way to illustrate it:

Source ---blk--- Switch ---blk--- Light1 ---blk--- Light2 ---blk--- Light3 etc.
       ---wht---        ---wht---        ---wht---        ---wht---

The idea is that although the lights are electrically in parallel, the wiring "daisy chains" from one to the next.  The switch can tie into the chain at either end or in the middle, it doesn't matter.

Now with two switches, it gets a little more interesting - you want different kind of switches, and three wires plus ground between the switches.  (No more asccii, going to reuse someone elses drawing...)


Please help! I don’t know what to do on what to do about my frozen main water supply line to my toilet?

Oh. I just realised "the line is in the exterior wall" - you mean buried inside a wall itself, or that it comes in from the outside? How close to it can you get? Can you see any part of it to examine it? I've never seen any building with piping buried in exterior walls (just because of this precise winter scenario), so I'm a bit puzzled.
Late Edit
I might have to reduce this to "if you can see the pipe or get to it to see if it's cracked or may leak and you can switch off the water to this one run without affecting the rest of the house, then warm it now. If not, call the plumber."
What you don't want to end up with is a leak you can't get to & can't switch off without switching everything off, especially if you and a thousand other people are all queuing for the same plumber, who may not be able to make it til Wednesday.

Thawing the pipe is easy enough, a hairdryer or small fan heater & a bit of patience… however…
Ice is 'bigger' than water, so frozen pipes are swollen pipes. Swollen pipes can crack under pressure.
So, before considering your next action - to call a plumber or attempt to DIY - make certain you can see no evidence of swelling or cracking.
If all looks good, then you can gently heat it. If using a hairdryer etc don't get the pipes themselves too warm. Be patient & heat around the area, slow & sure.


Assuming that the problems you're trying to solve are 1) stripped hinge screws, and 2) splintered jamb veneer...

You can mount the hinges in one of several ways:

Fill the holes firmly with wood slivers (or toothpicks) and wood glue. Allow to dry, and drill for standard hinge screws (commonly #9 or #10 by 1" flat-head). Use a pilot bit that's slightly smaller than the screw shank (not the thread diameter).
Purchase repair screws with a larger thread diameter.
Use longer screws that reach to the framing. 3" gold construction screws often work well and have a similar appearance. Be sure to not drive them so tight that you move the jamb. You might want to pilot with a 1/8" bit to prevent veering or splitting of the stud as you'll be fairly close to the edge with the outermost screws.

Since your jambs are painted you can use any common wood filler to skim the damage. Use a tool or nail to simulate wood grain with light scratches, them prime and paint.


You were right to be suspicious and it does sound like you have a problem. You should see 120V from hot to ground in your garage, just like in your house. The fact that you don't is an indicator that there is a problem with the ground to your garage.

The ground and neutral should not be bonded at the sub-panel, so the wiring there sounds correct.

Does the ground you see at the sub-panel actually run along with the feeder back to the main panel?

If not: Your installation is not compliant with the NEC1. A sub-panel needs to have a ground wire (separate from the neutral) which runs back to the main panel, as well as a local ground rod. See this Q&A: Is it ok to use a ground rod at a subpanel instead of a fourth wire?
If so: Then it sounds like you have a problem with the ground wire somewhere between the main panel and the sub-panel.

As ThreePhaseEel said:

  Turn off the feeder breaker for the sub in the main panel, then go to the subpanel and use your DMM to check for continuity between the neutral and the ground there, then report the results, please.

You should see ~0 ohms between neutral and ground, indicating that both conductors are good back to the main panel, and that they are properly bonded together (hopefully at only one point).

Based on your voltage readings, you will probably see ~∞ ohms. From there I would look in the main panel where the sub-panel feeders enter. You should see the neutral and ground enter and connect to their respective bus bars (or the same bus bar if that is the main bonding point).

I'm guessing that your sub-panel ground either doesn't go back to the main panel, or it isn't connected.

1 - The NEC used to allow the use of a single wire for neutral and ground, both for sub-panels and for 120/240V appliances, but this is not the case any more. All 120/240V circuits must now be four-wire.


Does painting over stylized wall tile in bathroom look good?

Will they look OK?
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If a buyer likes how it looks you are golden.

Here is a portion of an article from Sherwin Williams on painting tile.

  Most ceramic tiles can be painted, as long as it's not frequently subjected to water or heavy wear. For instance, you can paint tiles on a bathroom wall, but avoid painting tiles that line a bathtub, shower, or that is on the floor or a countertop. Frequent exposure to moisture could cause the newly applied paint to blister and peel. Heavy abrasion from foot traffic or countertop use could cause the paint to wear prematurely.
  Many experts have doubts about painting tile because the results can vary, depending on the type of tile, the products used to refinish them and the process followed.


Opening in dropped ceiling causes room to get warm

Without more information or a photo, my answer is to purchase a replacement ceiling tile, cut it to fill your gaps, put the original tile you removed in storage so you will have it if you move out of the space.


What is the mechanism of action of PVA glue?

The glue isn't curing

Because it has no exposure to air.

Effectively, you haven't applied it, just put it in a different bottle.

The moisture of the stuff is softening the pine wood around it.

You're lucky, too. If it had cured, you would not have gotten that screw out in a million years.  You're really playing with fire on this one.

Leave the screw out for a week, see if that helps.

And if you want to do that in the future, either a) drill it out and glue in a dowel of similar softwood, b) mix a thick slurry out of sawdust and glue, or c) if you suspect wood deterioration, hit it with an epoxy product called Git-Rot, which will soak into the wood.  But in all cases you wait for glue cure before putting any screws back in.  And if you want the glue to cure at a definite, positive rate, use epoxy glues.


Yellow droplets from ceilling after water heater leak

Water leaking through the wall may at first be filtered to some extent. As the leak continues and or the wall materials are saturated materials may add to the water creating the yellow color, rust is usually red. The yellow can be from an array of building materials, wood products & insulation are common ones that would have a yellowing affect on top of the rust if not severe to be red.


Best practice for filling a pit in a concrete slab?

I'd fill it part way of compacted gravel leaving enough space for the thickness of concrete slab you want.  The pour is going to be heavy enough that you really don't need to worry about adhesion.


How best can I discover what is up with my electrical bill?

For devices that plug into an electrical outlet, you can use Kill-a-Watt or equivalent to monitor how much electricity they're using.

If that doesn't give you a clear culprit, one low-tech method is to look at the electric meter as you turn off circuits at the service panel one at a time until you see a big change in speed at which the wheel is spinning (for older meters) or the digits are changing (newer meters).  If you can narrow down what's using a lot of electricity, you can look at devices one at a time on that circuit to see if one is using more than its fair share.


The green wire does need to connect to one of the two grounding screws in the box.

To completely comply with code practice, you would only place one wire under each grounding screw, but unfortunately the previous electrician has cut off the ground wires of the existing cables too short to pigtail a wire connector to them. You could try loosening the cable clamp and try to pull the cables far enough into the box to provide a minimal ground conductor length (if careful, you may only need 2-3 inches), wire nut them together, and connect one conductor to one of the grounding screws. (Don't forget to retighten the cable clamp.) Then connect the green wire from the dimmer to the other screw. This arrangement allows the dimmer to be removed without opening the grounding connection to the rest of the circuit.

If neither of the cables has enough slack outside the box to do that, then you should still run the green dimmer wire under one of the two grounding screws, but it's not a best practice.


How do you attach a wooden gate to fence with metal posts?

You have numerous choices to deal with the gate hinge issue. For a round post you can clamp on this type of hinge and then bolt its flat plate to the gate:

Alternatively you could drill a horizontal hole through the metal post and install the bolt type hinge pin to be mated with the type of bolt on hinge strap in the second following picture:

A third option is to use the following U-bolt type hinge point mounted on the post. Then use a lag bolt hinge pin screwed into the gate framing:


How do I seal a large gap between slabs to avoid freeze/thaw heaving?

Based on the pics and the amount of movement alone, I'm guessing that the foundation for this slab was not properly prepared.  I'd wager that someone simply dug a squareish hole a few inches deep, put in boards for forms and poured the concrete.  Looks great for a while, but doesn't do squat to avoid shifting in cold weather when the water freezes.

A proper concrete slab should be resting on footings that go fairly deep into the ground (the further north, the deeper).  Have a look at this image to see what I mean:

Note how the slab itself sits on a concrete wall?  We can't tell how deep it goes from the photo but it should go at least a foot.  This is done around the edges, usually, but alternatively, just like with a paver patio, you could dig out a much larger hole - a foot or more all the way down - and then fill with gravel, covered with cloth covered with sand (compacted at every layer) and the concrete poured on that.  The purpose of that type of foundation is to give adequate drainage underneath so that what little water remains beneath in a freeze/thaw/freeze cycle has room to expand around the gravel rather than heaving it out of the way.
So in short, there's no easy solution to your problem - and no amount of 'sealing' will fix it - water in the ground will get under that porch slab from all edges and continue to lift and move it as it freezes.

Sorry. :(


How to seal hardwood floor in preparation of self-leveling compound?

I used a self leveling compound to level my bathroom floor. It trowels on and was recommended to go over linoleum. Stuck like glue but had to be sanded a little to level properly. I think it would work on hardwood as well. Sorry can’t remember the name but bought it at Lowe’s. I think it was m 50 something in a green can.


What tool should I use to remove a screw from cramped spaces?

Assuming you are okay with the nut falling once removed, you could try an offset ratchet wrench similar to these

There are a wide variety of types, styles and price points.

 Images and links for reference only. Not an endorsement of any goods or sources.


This can also be a sign that you bought a dimmer that is designed for incandescent bulbs, but you have it controlling CFL or LED bulbs. This can absolutely make it buzz. If the dimmer was not explicitly for CFL and LED bulbs and those are what you are running, then you need to get new dimmers that are explicitly for those bulbs.


How do I work around a tree in my fence line?

Build a wrought iron ring either around the back or depending on how big the tree is or around the whole thing.

Make a half circle with two horizontal 1" strips and 1/2" iron posts. 1 post every 8 - 12" would be enough. The two outside posts can be longer and set in concrete. You can easily make the diameter of the ring big enough to leave 6-8" of space for future growth. If you want to still block it off more you can string it with vinyl straps used on balconies or something that fits your style. Tabs welded to the outside posts would allow you to connect the boards coming from the wood posts to support them.

It would be a fairly simple build for someone with a welder.


Go to your home store and pick up a package of dowel pins or just get one big dowel rod and a drill bit to match.They come in many sizes depending on the hole you're trying to repair.

Drill out the eroded wood, squirt some wood glue in the hole and tap in the dowel pin and let the glue dry.

If you are going to use one long rod and cut it to the size you need, cut a small grove length wise in your pin to allow excess glue to escape. This isn't needed if you buy a package of dowel pins because they are already grooved. After the glue dries, sand and paint the area and then you can reinstall the jab bracket.


When I run a device with a 15 amp motor, why doesn't the 15 amp breaker trip when I flip on a light on the same circuit?

The motor rating on the saw is the FLA (full load amperage). With the saw running without a load (cutting the material is the load) the saw will not be pulling the full load amperage. Many small motors are rated at peak draw (closed to locked rotor current) the motor never draws this amount until the motor is almost stalled. The "phony FLA" is used on air compressors, vacuum cleaners, table saws and many hand tools to get the buyer to pick that manufacturer If the actual current draw is measured you might find the saw is only drawing 1/2 the current listed on the name plate. A true 120v 1 HP motor FLA is listed as 16 amps This size motor would trip a 15 amp breaker (on start up even tripping a 20 amp breaker) because the starting current is usually 2-4 times the FLA for the time required to get to speed. I would doubt that your breaker is defective but the only way to tell with certainty is to measure the actual current on the branch circuit.


That is a switch loop, notice the white with the group of blacks, that white goes down to the switch and the switched power is on the single black wire (if you look close that white with the black will be in the same cable as the single black)  so your black on the light goes to the single black. The white on the light to the group of whites and grounds together if the lamp has one. (Plastic lamps may not have a ground, the white with the black wires should be marked usually black or with black tape but any color besides white, gray or green would meet code.) the marking of a switch loop is often overlooked/ not done.


How do I estimate BTU usage to properly size new gas line?

The size for the range goes back to your cooking style if you use 2 burners all the time or are like my wife uses 2 burners the griddle and one of the ovens at the same time you add all that up but remember you probably won’t be grilling at the same time or the furnace may not need to turn on as often while using the range. It won’t hurt to size everything for maximum flow but the pain may be in the check book when you find you need 1-1/2 lines to do this but only really need 1” for actual use. So if you use all the burners and oven at the same time add them in but then think will you be grilling outside? Or will the heater need to come on? And go from there.


The screws are likely rusted in place.

Drill the head completely off so you can remove the aluminum parts. Then try the following:

generous application of penetrating oil, followed by a 24 hour wait. Put vise grips on the shaft (pliers will not work) and use a hammer on the vise grips. You want a sudden movement here, not a steady turn
heat the part and then use the vise grips again. And by "heat" I mean glowing dull-red. Grab it with vise grips while still glowing.
the above may simply twist off the shaft, but that's step 3 anyway. Grind it flush with the rest of the metal, heat it up bright red, preferably orange, and let it cool completely. Do NOT quench - heating softens the metal, rapid cooling hardens it. Drill and tap a new hole. If there's too much corrosion in there, drill a bigger hole. If it's really nasty corrosion, go all the way through and use a bolt, and if it's bad enough that the bolt won't work, get a new grill.


How do I test the functionality of a sump pump?

There are typically "sliders" or some sort of adjustment that mark the "start" and "stop" (or "high" and "low") water levels.

Generally there's no minimum low-water level other than you want to make sure that there is always water covering the pump intake (so it doesn't suck air).

The "high" mark just needs to be low enough that water never gets out of the sump.  If you have a "high water" alarm (and you should), make sure the "high" mark is low enough that it doesn't trigger by accident.

Other than that, the further apart they are spaced, the less frequently it will turn on and the less wear on the pump (start-up is the most stressful time).  Too close together and any backwash down the output pipe could cause it to turn back on again in an endless cycle.

For testing, dumping buckets of water down is fine, as is using a hose to fill it.  You just want to make sure that it turns on and off within the limits described above.


Drilling: what's underneath my subfloor?

Sounds like there could be some self-leveling concrete somewhere under there.

Self-leveling concrete is typically used to create a flat and smooth surface with a compressive strength similar to or higher than that of traditional concrete prior to installing interior floor coverings. Self-leveling concrete has increased in popularity as the degree of flatness and smoothness required for floor covering products has increased, with vinyl goods becoming thinner and floor tiles becoming larger, for example

It's possible the concrete is only in the low spots of the floor, so might not be visible (or extremely thin) at the vent you checked.
Since there's a basement underneath, if you can get access to the floor joists from below that might be a better way to stop squeaks.


Is it ok that a hot wire connects to two separate switches?

That is a perfectly functional way of splitting a single hot (highlighted green in your sketch) to supply power to two separate switched fixtures. However, most smart switches require a neutral conductor in the switch box so there can be an always-on connection for the "smart" circuitry.

It's hard to tell whether or not you have this because all of your conductors have the same color insulation. It looks like knob and tube wiring, so there is a distinct possibility of the neutral not being present in the switch box. In older circuitry it wasn't uncommon for the installer to run hot to fixtures via one path and return the neutral to the fuse/breaker panel via a completely different route.


Mount Nissedal mirror away from the wall

If you insist on building the entire project, you should use standard lumber boards to construct a box around the shelves. Anything less than an enclosing box will not be strong enough to support and withstand the forces incident to opening and closing a hinged door.

To attach the box to the wall, use internal crosspieces at the back of the top and bottom. Screw through the crosspieces into the studs (you'll want to find those for hanging the shelves anyway).

If you want to skip most of the building, you'll find that medicine cabinets are rarely more than about 15cm deep. They're usually designed to fit into a wall between the studs.

Also, I don't know where you are, but around here in New England I have found in furniture outlets many shallow cabinets obviously intended as surface mounted medicine cabinets. Apparently sometimes builders do not want to cut into the bathroom wall.


If the hose fitting can not be removed by you then i would advise you to remove the arm itself.  Get a 6 or 8 inch long 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple
and a 1/2" cap.
Pre-Install the cap on the nipple with two pipe wrenches, use Teflon tape on the treads.
Remove the arm  and thread in the capped nipple into the fitting in the wall, Use Teflon tape on the threads, Tighten with a pipe wrench.
If   the  leak is significant you should turn off you main water supply valve first.


Wiring Diagram From a Wall Switch To Two Light Fixtures


Have you tried a strong magnet? Most of my drivers that use those small bits hold them in place with a magnet so the bit becomes magnetic. A strong magnet may take it right out where shaking won’t.


How to wire 3 hots / 3 neutrals into this new TR outlet with 2 screws?

Your two options here are to pigtail the hots and neutrals, or get a new "backwire" outlet.  A backwire outlet has small wire clamps on the sides of the outlet so the wire can be inserted straight in rather than looping around the screw.  This type of outlet might be sold as "heavy duty", but they are great for handling up to 4 conductors on each side.  The ground will still need to be pigtailed, but that's usually not a big deal.

Example outlet

If you look closely at that picture, you can see 4 holes in the back on each side.  Wire inserts straight into the holes and the screws on the side tighten the wire in clamps.  They are very similar to your old push-connect outlet, but they clamp tight on the wire.

Backwire outlets are great for smaller boxes because you don't need to worry about a couple 4-wire bundles of 12GA wire getting pushed into the box along with the outlet.

A pigtail is used where there are too many converging wires to be accommodated by a fixture, such as you describe here.  The converging wires, and another short length of similar wire (the pigtail), are twisted and secured by a wire nut.  This leaves you with a single lead to attach to the fixture.  (Added for completeness)


I would say yes you should be able to get rid of the pump if it is not needed . I have had homes with a similar setup and no pump. I would probably seal the sump so if the water starts smelling it is not stinking up the house. With natural drainage I believe the system would be safer with regards to possible flooding with natural drainage especially in an area prone to power outages. Natural drainage will also have less impact on the power bill so for me that would be a win win.


How do I remove this window sash to replace the glass pane?

Pretty sure the sash is stuck within the frame.

However, there might be glazing stops that you can gently pry off with a stiff putty knife. (This is hard, btw. Every one I've ever met has been thin and easy to mangle.)

If you get the stops off successfully, you can order a new thermal unit from a specialty place. (While you're there, show them the stops to see if they have new ones.) Install is pretty straightforward, though you'll be happier if you have a couple of suction cup grabbers.


When the magic smoke escaped from an electrical device, it's dead...

Seriously, smoke means something is dangerously overheating. To avoid doing further damage you should remove power from it and not attempt to use it until the problem has been found and fixed.


Does crown direction really matter when framing a wall?

Yes it is.  If all your studs are oriented the same way, you'll have a gentle bow to the wall (either in or out) that is more or less consistent across the width of a wall.

On the other hand, if you have them so that one stud curves in and the next curves out, you're going to have irregularities in your wall that are the twice the size of the curvature of the studs, and that will be much more noticeable.

Here's an article that explains it well.


Should a curtain drain be covered/back filled?

The usual purpose of a curtain drain is to divert (under)groundwater away from a structure. The only reason to not cover it with fabric and a few inches of soil is to capture surface drainage as well. If you need to capture surface drainage, then there must be a significant grading issue that is allowing surface water to stand near the structure.

Such a grading issue should be corrected, in which case the curtain drain could be covered. If for some reason it cannot be corrected, (or this is actually a gravel filled trench drain) then the gravel should be left exposed. It will also need to be maintained so that it does not get clogged with silt and other material carried in surface runoff.

In summary, the proper surface treatment depends on the intended purpose(s) of the drain.


How to determine tankless water heater requirements?

With a tankless water heater it's all about how many degrees the heater can raise a certain quantity of water.  In your situation, you will need a heater to raise the temperature of about 5 gallons per minute (two showers running at once or one shower and another hot water tap running).  If you live in the north, and the water out of the tap is be 40 degrees in the winter, then you will need the heater to raise that 5 gallons 70+ degrees.  If you live in Florida, you may only need it to raise 5 gpm 45 degrees.  Information about a water heater you are considering purchasing will include a chart that specifies temerature gain at various flow rates.  Choose the one that best meets your demands.


"I rather want to know, whether I need to worry and act immediately or can lay off the fixing for a while."
In answering this specific question it's obviously not going to get any better without remediation. However, it isn't an emergency situation as long as you can keep that area dry. If it's just you, that might be workable but if you have a wife and three kids using it- good luck. Even small amounts of moisture seeping under that tile may cause mold, mildew and possibly other issues.
So if it's a landlord issue - why put it off?


There are digital stud finders that you use with your phone and the hype from their advertising implies you can see anything through anything.  I can't vouch for them but it's worth a look.
There are wire tracers like the toneout boxes the phone company used to use.  There are cheap ones.  The receiver does not need electrical contact, it's meant to work through the wire insulation but I don't know how far through plaster it might work.   Maybe worth a try.
Many VESA mounts are horizontally adjustable on their mounting screws so perhaps you could just drill outside the 10cm band and still get the result you want.


Should I replace this fixture box or get creative with the mounting?

Ceiling fans, when properly mounted, are put on specialized mounting/junction boxes that are especially strong, have a very secure mount for the fan and are hard screwed into a beam or stud.

What you have there looks like a pancake style fan box. See this example:

Every junction box has threaded holes for mounting fixtues such as your track lighting base. The studs in your picture appear to be the bolt holders for the fan.  If they are stripped, it is not safe to hang things from them and oversized bolts are a risky work-around.

It may be that other screw holes in the bottom are properly threaded for standard fixture mounting. Check them using the bolts that came with the fixture.  If they are not (and there are usually several unthreaded holes in junction boxes), you should probably replace the box with a new one with intact mounting tabs/holes.


Black and white wires crossed in the ceiling

It looks like an inline switch to me, which is usually indicated by a mark on the wire. Are there any black markings (Eg sharpie or electrical tape) on the white wire? You should be able to wire in your fixture to the old wires exactly as is.


Do I need a special receptacle when more than the standard number of wires need to be connected?

If this is, in fact, a split outlet, you should be fine wire nutting the blacks and a black pigtail, the reds and a red pigtail, and you can connect the whites directly or wirenut them and a pigtail, as you prefer. You will need to break the tab connecting the receptacles on the hot side, at least (my guess is that they broke the hot tab and left the neutral tab connected, looking at the picture we're starting with.)

Connect that grounding wire to the new receptacle, as well...


Any wood thread with adequate penetration will do, but I'd avoid black oxide (drywall) screws--they're quite brittle. No need to pilot unless the beam framing is extremely hard (or you hit a knot).

Get at least 1-1/4" into the framing (not a beam wrapper) and be happy.


How to cover the metal showing in recessed lighting?

You could cover the bare metal with paint. If you paint it the same color as the baffle (white), it should be less noticeable.


Foul smell in bathroom, ONLY when air conditioning is NOT blowing/running

To me it sounds like the vent from the bathroom to the outside must have moisture in it and growing something. I say this because many HVAC systems have a small percentage of fresh air added when they are running and this keeps the air moving out of the bathroom. When the System is off the smell wafts back into the room.
You may be able to use a spray disinfectant, Remove the cover, turn the fan on and direct the spray into the fan (not the motor) and spray for a few seconds,,, or minutes. put the cover back on and see if the smell is still there in a day or so.
I am guessing you have a fan since there are no windows and this has been code for decades.


What kind of wood is around this fireplace?

It is called Casing and is mainly used around doors and windows.


I think at this point, you should call in a plumber with a snake & camera to determine the problem with the drain pipe. Instead of cutting, flushing and making a big mess a plumber with a camera on his snake could quickly determine the problem and the fix needed. If you call in a professional tell him/her the size and type of the piping you are dealing with.
my 2 cents


No.    Your safety is worth more than you feeling anxiety.  You have smoke alarms for your apartment but this one looks like it is hooked up to the building.  Meaning if there were a fire somewhere else in the building you would be notified via this alarm.

You may think that this alarm is extremely loud if you are standing next to it but what if you are in the shower with a radio on?  In college I had a similar alarm and showered right through a drill and had no idea.  Also these alarms should go off maybe a couple of times a year so your anxiety should be only messed with for a few minutes a year at most.

If this doesn't convince you, then maybe saying that tampering with fire alarms is illegal and could be grounds to have you evicted.


Can I feed two circuits from one breaker?

Yes, it's fine to combine circuits onto one breaker, at which point they become one circuit.  Provided, of course, that there is not a Code prohibition on that due to certain particular circuits needing to be dedicated, i.e. You can't add anything to a furnace circuit, and cannot add non-bathroom loads to a bathroom receptacle circuit.

Mechanically, you must use breakers listed for your panel by UL.  Your breakers might allow 2 wires on a terminal, if not just pigtail them. Wire nuts are allowed in panels.


What causes an open ground on a wall outlet when I turn on the light switch to the ceiling lights?

Ok John this probably not the answer you want to hear but, using a tester as you describe is fine for checking for problems, now is the time to call a electrician to identify and resolve the wiring issue.... most not all homes built around your homes era did not have grounded outlets. Please get a referral and try to avoid fixed price franchise electricians. God Bless Big Jim


Tile Around bathtub. Over drywall vs. vapor shield & backerboard

Will it be used as a shower as well? If so, sheetrock is the wrong material for the surround. It's going to act as a sponge if water ever finds its way to it.

What you could do is put backer board on top of the sheetrock, then coat the backer board with a waterproof membrane (I like the Redgard product for that) then tile. Be sure that the backer overlaps the lip of the tub to the inside.

Personally, I'd pull out the sheetrock completely, then shim out the studs and apply the backerboard to that.


Electrical Bonding for an exterior building

You need a ground wire and ground rods at both structures

You are correct that you only bond neutral to ground at the service entrance.  However, current Code not only calls for a grounding wire between the structures (which you have provided), but for a grounding electrode system at both buildings.  This can be a concrete-encased electrode (if provided), or the old saw of two 8' ground rods driven 8' apart and connected with an appropriate-gauge wire if no better electrode (such as a concrete-encased electrode, foundation steel of some other sort, or a well casing) exists.

Each grounding electrode system gets a grounding electrode conductor back to the ground bar in the panel/disconnect for the associated structure, and the feeder equipment grounding conductor in the inter-building feeder connects the two together, from ground bar to ground bar.

You are also correct that the radio tower needs a ground rod, and that its ground needs to be bonded to the mains grounding system at the structure where the radio device (transmitter or receiver) is located.  This ground wire goes to a tap on the structure's grounding electrode conductor, made using an intersystem bonding termination device or suitable tap connector.


Replacing 3-way switches with C by GE smart switches

All the neutrals go together

Your problem is that you're splitting up the existing bundle of neutrals, leaving no way for power to return back to the utility from the light.  Instead, you need to add the switch's neutral wire to the existing bundle of neutrals; this is also true of the grounds, as well.


I use an airless sprayer and all I do is thin out my paint with either water for latex or paint thinner for oil base. I use Glidden paint and have sprayed them all, Oil base, Latex, Acrylic Enamel, and every sheen as well, and really the only difference I have seen is using oil base, I use the thinner because it helps the sprayer not work as hard. I have a Magnum sprayer also and been using it for over 3 years now. Make certain you tear the gun down and clean it thoroughly every time after spraying paint. You'll thank me for this if you keep it clean clean clean......and strain your paint.. that's a must. this will help the internal filter on your sprayer. those things get expensive if you have to keep replacing.


I need to know if this is load bearing. Removing old tub and new tub is larger. Need to cut studs out to make room

I doubt if it’s load bearing because: 1) spaced double stud, 2) no header across opening,

1) Load bearing POSTS tend to be solid posts or built up solid posts...not spaced apart studs.

2) Load bearing WALLS tend to be continuous and would require a header across the opening.

If you can remove some ceiling gypsum board and look above the wall, you can easily determine if it’s load bearing. Just make sure no studs or posts rest on top of the wall.

Also, if you can check under the wall and see if there is a wall, beam, post, etc. directly under the wall, then it probably is load bearing...if not, you’re good to go.


I hook up a hose to the lower valve ; the other hose end is outside. I put a ball cock / 90 degree shut-off valve on the hose. Open the heater valve then open and close the ball cock at roughly 30 second intervals , the intent is to stir up sediment. Several cycles. Leave the gas and the inlet valves open. The burner will come on and the heat will help move sediment. It does waste hot water but should significantly extend heater life depending on your water. The objective is to remove sediment ; you change water every time you open a faucet. If you are limited to only a bucket , don't bother. Assuming a typical US domestic water heater; the inlet and outlets are at the top , fortunately the inlet has a pipe going to the bottom of the tank . This inlet and the burner coming on will tend to stir the sediment. Don't turn on any faucets while flushing, as you could mess them up with sediment. You could put the outside end of the hose in a bucket, it will catch some of the sediment and indicate progress.


Should I use a roll or spray method to paint my textured ceiling?

Spray and roll, more commonly called spray and backroll around me is when you spray the paint on and then another person follows behind you with a roller to roll the freshly spread paint. One of the reasons to do it is to get more even coverage in textured ceilings.

It's easier to do with two people so if it's just you might just want to skip the sprayer to keep things simple.

If you've never used spray equipment before it can take some time to get used to. Chances are you're going to mess up the first go (drips, sags, missed spots, etc) so at least practice on some cardboard or something.

I own and have used sprayers but I also own a Wagner Power Roller. It's a system that feeds paint through a tube into a roller so I don't have to keep a tray of paint. I eventually got good with the sprayers but with the power roller there was very little learning curve, no need to tape as much and cover everything. In almost every way I found it easier than the sprayer.

They make roller arms that attach to airless sprayers that do the same thing. There called pressure rollers. If you have access to the airless sprayer maybe you can find one to borrow or rent.


How do I divert rain water that collects between two shed structures?

i would wedge a length of plastic gutter on a slight slope between the 2 sheds , making a small gap and encouraging the water to run into the gutter and into a down pipe directing it away from both sheds. You may have to experiment a little for the height of this


Washing vinyl siding -- hard to reach high up places?

I use a brush and pole for washing RV's. The pole is a telescoping one usef for painting. I stand on a tall stepladder and the combination can reach pretty high. Lowes had the RV brush. So I spray on some soap, brush, and then rinse.


Wire carries current, insulation prevents leakage of voltage.

Any wire can carry any voltage up to the working voltage of the insulation. Category 5 phone cable is rated for 125wV and commonly carries 12-57VDC for Power Over Ethernet, 48VDC for phone and 90VAC for phone ringer operation.

Wire size determines the ampacity (amount of current) the wire can carry. As long as your device pulls 600mA or less, 22 gauge wire should be sufficient. If it needs current in the 2 amp range, you'll need 18 gauge wire. Excessive current heats the wire and can melt the insulation.

Another thing to think about is voltage drop and that is affected by the size of the wire (resistance). You will have a 2V drop in available voltage at the end of a 100ft 22ga cable at 24V/600mA. 1V drop for 50ft at 24V/600mA.

Their specs aren't technical enough to tell you what the current draw is on the device.


How often is this happening? If it is happening frequently enough, I'd turn off some of the circuit breakers and see if something on one of them is causing the issue.

Call your utility company. A few years ago I was having a power quality issue in an apartment that would cause my computer and network UPS's to click on and back off momentarily every 20-60 minutes. Since it was a new issue and nothing had changed in the apartment, I called the utility company. They suggested LED lighting could be affecting the power but I said I hadn't installed any recently. They ended up attaching a power quality analyzer to diagnose the issue and they were able to fix it. I never heard what the issue ended up being, but it wasn't just my apartment. It was just such a subtle one that no one else had detected it and reported it.


How do I determine rough opening sizes for common closet door sizes?

Bifold rough openings:  to the hinge (pivot ) side add 3/4", to the other other side, 1/4"

So for single 24" wide door, a 25" RO (which is really a finished opening for bifolds) is needed.

You need a bit more clearance on the pivot side, because the pivot is inboard a bit and it needs clearance to swing through (pivot around) the thickness of the door.  Similarly, any baseboard trim  will need to be held back from the inside (of the closet) for door clearance.


What is causing my circuit breaker to trip instantly and trip the next breaker too? Update - Video Added

Somewhere in the circuit there is likely a low resistance connection between the two legs. The most likely culprit would be a split duplex receptacle that was replaced, and the tab between the upper and lower sections were not removed. Another likely cause would be a staple, nail, screw, etc., that penetrates both cables.

With both breakers off, check continuity between the ungrounded (hot) conductors of each circuit.

Turn off both breakers.
Set your multimeter to continuity mode, or the lowest resistance setting.
Touch one probe to the lug of one breaker, and the other probe to the lug of the other breaker.

With the breakers in the off position, you should read infinity (or open).   If you get a reading, it means that these two conductors are connected somewhere.  If the reading in not close to 0, there could be a 240 volt load connected between the legs. If the reading is near 0, you have a low resistance short between the legs.


Stud finding for window curtains -- what does it mean that the whole side of the window frame is magnetic?

There's metal corner bead under the finished surface. It will be more difficult to screw into than drywall alone. Put the screw more than an inch away from the corner and you should be fine. As a renter, just make sure you remove the curtain and patch and paint the holes you made when you need to leave.


Could placing hot food in the fridge (as opposed to letting it cool first), cause significant reduction in appliance lifetime

The answer, as mentioned by +MonkeyZeus, is here: https://cooking.stackexchange.com/a/29857

It can be summarized as:

  This is a myth left over from the days of iceboxes. Go to any official food safety resource online (including USDA, FDA, etc.), and you will find they are all in agreement: it's perfectly safe to put hot food in your refrigerator. In fact, unless you are using some more direct cooling method (like putting your food in an ice bath), waiting to refrigerate your food is often a health hazard.


OK, i can identify it.
It is That ugly texture for the 70's that the neighbor lady talked my mom into letter her put on my bedroom ceiling.
She also did one on the living room ceiling that was like a swirl, she would dip a brush in mud, stick it on the ceiling (poke the ceiling)  and turn it before pulling straight away from the ceiling.
I think she had stock in the mud company because it uses a lot of mud.
I also had red white and blue shag carpet in 1976. And you wonder where i get my warped sense of humor.

Which stipple brush will match my pattern?

One possibility is they used a straight brush, loaded it with mud and poked the ceiling, pulled straight back and then turned the brush and poke and turned the brush and poked and tur- - - ked.


Fridgidaire Gallery Powers off for several hours and sometimes days

Well, I finally solved the issue.
There was a pinch ground wire from the power cord. The ground was pinched between the frame and housing.
I also found 2 ground wires that were grounded to the compressor. These wires were screwed to the compressor mounting frame, but there was a piece of green tape between the metal and the eye loops of the grounds. Basically, the grounds were not grounded.

Since un-pinching the power line ground wire and removing the tape to allow the other 2 grounds to have a good ground, fridge is working non-stop for 30 days now.
Regards,


Is there any problem using brass screws to fit zinc hinges?

If it gets wet at all, you will run into problems with galvanic corrosion that will eat away at the hinges.  Your best bet is to use materials of similar anodic index (near the bottom of this page on galvanic corrosion).  If you absolutely must pair brass and zinc, either ensure that the connection between the two will never get wet (using grease or some sort of coating) or that the two metals never actually come into contact with one another (using, say, a nonmetallic washer).


How can I recreate this wall bed with a desk?

Lee Valley -- Hiddenbed™ Bed/Desk Hardware Kit -- http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=72053&cat=53&ap=1 might be suitable. (And not $5K.)


Can I split the feed to a duplex 20 amp receptacle from different capacity circuits?

No, you can't feed a split receptacle from circuits with differently-sized breakers. Here's why:
You can, but you have to meet certain conditions:

The National Electrical Code now requires that the two hot wires in a split receptacle must be connected to a double-pole circuit breaker, so that when the breaker is shut off, the action will automatically disconnect both receptacles. That way, the outlet will be safe to work on.
source: The Spruce

To my knowledge, handle-tied double breakers with different current ratings don't exist. However, as ThreePhaseEeel points out, you may be able to find UL listed handle-ties for your breaker brand. This would require that they be mounted adjacent. Or you could reduce the 20A circuit to 15 Amps and use the same wire.


Is there a 1/2 Female copper to 3/4 Pex barb adapter?

Yes, it's called a "1/2 in. Brass Female Sweat Copper Adapter x 3/4 in. Pex Barb Pipe Fitting"
Home Depot | Amazon

Sidenote: it took me quite some time to become efficient for searching these kinds of parts.

Per your comment this part is unavailable to you so you can do this:

Get a 1/2" female sweat to 1/2" barbed adapter

If available then do a 1/2" push-to-connect coupling instead since it will help to avoid soldering

Attach a short (6-12 inches) piece of 1/2" pex
Get a 3/4" to 1/2" barbed transition

Not sure about your pipe layout but a 3/4" to 1/2" barbed elbow could be a better choice
3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" reducing tee could also be used depending on where this transition is


How do I repair a small nick in motor windings?

As long as the conductor in the motor winding is undamaged, you can probably repair the insulating varnish with a product that is made for that purpose.

Here is the tech sheet to one such product, MG Red Insulating Varnish 4228:

http://www.mgchemicals.com/downloads/tds/tds-4228-l.pdf

Amazon stocks and sells 55ml bottles of this for about $10.


How do I remove a rust stain on my bathroom vanity counter?

I presume the sink is faux marble.  Try Lime Away.  Or C.L.R. - they should remove it without hurting the surface.

Comet bathroom cleaner (The squirt kind) works good on light rust spots, but would take a while on really severe spots.


How can I remove residual adhesive that may contain asbestos from wood?

First, I agree with diceless, it is probably perfectly legal for the homeowner, to deal with this problem himself (assuming no part of the house is rented to a third party).

On the other hand, I agree with Mazura, you may be opening a huge can of worms here.  Since we are only talking about 2 bedrooms, I have to question the cost and time effectiveness of trying to rehabilitate the wood if the cutback contains asbestos.  I realize there may be problems matching the height of the bedrooms to the hallways or other areas, but if there is asbestos (and the floors are flat enough as is), just nail down new 3/4" hardwood or good quality 1/2" engineered hardwood over top of the existing floor.  Just use a heat gun to remove the excess cutback to ensure the floor is flat enough.

If the cutback does not contain asbestos, remove excess cutback and then go at it with a drum sander (rent it at Home Depot or wherever).

If a home sale is in your future, I realize you may not really want to know whether the cutback has asbestos since if you do, you'd be obliged to disclose such on sale. But until you know, you can't really plan the right course.  You should be able to scrape up a sample of cutback, mail it to a lab and get results in less than a week.  e.g. http://www.asbestos-test.com/


Is there a way to know if the photocell is a switch or a dimmer?

There are certain photocells that are only rated for incandescent bulbs and there are also photocells that are rated for L.E.D and flourescent bulbs. You would have to make sure if yours will allow L.E.D.s The same goes with dimmer switches. A dimmer that is only rated with incandescent bulbs, if hooked up to a led or flourescent (cfl) bulb will eventually burn out. Again you have to make sure u find the correct photo cell. also to you will install the photocell between the switch and the 1st light in the series of light. It will be

Power comming into the switch > power from the switch to the photo cell > power from the photo cell to the light and so on....


Can I Use this fitting to connect CPVC tubing to a new shower valve

From what I can gather, both fittings are acceptable.  I ended up getting the second style, and after installation, there was a very small leak at the NPT thread.  I could not tighten it, since the CPVC does not rotate relative to the copper.  So, I had to cut the line tighten the fitting and then install a CPVC coupling.  Not a big deal, but had I installed the first type of fitting, I could have loosened the nut, tightened up the NPT joint and then tightened the nut.  Which I suspect is exactly the problem these fittings are meant to address.


Wood glue versus epoxy for doweling stripped screw holes

Wood glue, hands down. Wood glue is designed to penetrate the wood for a tighter bond. Properly done, wood glue is stronger than the surrounding wood. I have chairs I've wood glued and clamped and they're still fine years later.

Epoxy is OK, but you have to make sure you get the right epoxy too. Many are exothermic (they get hot) and might eat your wood. Just be sure to read labels for supported materials.


Garage roller shutter door opening by itself

I was not fully aware what happened when I tried to code an incompatible remote key bought for spare from Ebay..

What I did is changed the existing code and that seems fixed the issue. I have to copy this new code to all the existing keys, but that was easy.

This video also helped..


White Mortar-like material oozing out of Chimney's brickwork (pictured)

It is efflorescence. Water picks up minerals in the mortar and transports them until the water evaporates, leaving the minerals behind. Other than cosmetic issues, this is normally harmless, though if the process continues for a long period, enough minerals can be removed that the mortar sort of rots.

Only close inspection will indicate if the mortar is compromised. If it is, it's likely superficial and can be corrected by repointing. The deposits can be removed with muriatic acid. The mortar can be protected from more water incursion by applying any of various sealing products available.


I changed the ignitor and that resolved the issue.

I took it out, and the side of the ignitor facing the gas was dull,. The other side sparkled, like the new one I got. I wonder if I could have just flipped it over exposing the sparkled side to the gas -- the design was symmetrical. I considered it, but had already purchased the replacement.


Help reconnecting light to existing ceiling box wiring

Copied from my comment as an answer: I took off the working closet light and it is a black/white wire going to the fixture. I traced this wire back to the ceiling box and the black wire goes to #4, white goes to #1. Red wire in #1 is always hot, black wires in #4 are hot when the light is on. Wired my fixture the same as the wire to the closet light - black to #4 and white to #1 bundle and it works now. Thanks!


Duplex Circuit Breaker Still Providing Power

I believe you've accidentally discovered a pressing and immediate safety problem you need to fix ASAP. You have a miswired MWBC (multi-wire branch circuit) which overloads the neutral wire.

It is very common to wire the disposal and dishwasher as an MWBC - each gets an opposing pole of "hot" and they share the neutral.  Since they are opposite poles, if both loads are at max, they "cancel each other out" and the neutral handles nothing at all.  Very slick.  But if they're on the same pole, the neutral handles twice its capacity - danger!

As ArchonOSX points out, that residual voltage is just induced from parallel wires.  The 1.45 volts is from being parallel to other wires for a short distance. The 40V indicates a much longer distance - suggesting it's an MWBC run in the same Romex.

How do I know the danger condition exists?  Look at your breakers.  You have a Square D "Homelite" (HOM) panel - it's the consumer-grade Square D product.  You have oddball breakers and this confused your electrician.  Let's start at the beginning.

Here is what a normal 1-pole breaker looks like. Note it has 1 switch and operates 1 circuit.  It is bulky and takes a lot of space.  Actually it takes one space in the panel.

Now here's what a 2-pole breaker looks like.  It's twice the width - and that's very important! As you know, USA electricity is 240V across its 2 poles, with "neutral" in the middle - 120V from pole to neutral.  Panels are designed with a "zigzag" so every other space is on an opposite pole.  A 2-pole breaker like this is guaranteed to be on opposite poles, so 240v across them.  Works for stoves and dryers, and it's exactly what you need for an MWBC.

OK, but with big houses, panels fill up fast.  As a workaround to that problem, they make "tandem" circuit breakers like this which cram 2 circuits into one space.  You have a panel full of these.  This is legit, but since it occupies one space, it only has access to one pole. Both circuits are on the same pole.

Now look at your photo, with the dishwasher and disposal turned off.  They are on a tandem, both on the same pole.  If they are an MWBC sharing a neutral, that's the bad thing!

How to fix this?  First find out if they are an MWBC.  Look and see if they share a neutral - check either in the kitchen (one hot being red and the other black is a major clue) or pull the panel cover off and see if there's a red, black, white and bare heading into the same Romex. You can also measure voltage between the dishwasher "hot" and the disposal "hot" - if the difference is 240 volts, the MWBC is wired correctly, if it's 0 volts, it is dangerous.

If it is defective, you have a bigger problem still.  Your electrician may have made this mistake more than once.  I would search the panel for any other mistakes, particularly with MWBCs.

To fix it, the cheap way is to simply rearrange wires so the MWBC hots are on opposite poles (breakers in adjacent spaces).  The right way is to follow th National Electrical Code, which as of 2008 requires** a 2-pole breaker for MWBCs, which also assures the two hots are on opposite poles, preventing this common mistake. On a busy panel like this, how do you find the room?   Like this.

Here's the product link for that.   Notice it takes 2 spaces, assuring opposite poles, and gives a tied 2-pole circuit (for your MWBC) in the center, and two single circuits on the outside (for whatever else you displaced.)  Like all these breakers, you can get them in a variety of amperages to suit.


Attaching a motorized flip down tv mount to my apartment ceiling

I like that mount.
It appears your soffit housing the duct work is made of steel studs covered in drywall.
This is a challenge for the weight of large TV, especially a hanging one that moves.
I would mount a Thick, long, wide board to the drywall spanning  3  studs. The board or boards need to be wider than the depth or length of the mounting plate of the the TV mount.
I would use Toggler anchors to attach the board to the studs, the toggle would/must go through the wall of the metal studs, at least 2 if not 3 anchors per stud.
You need to know exactly how the soffit is constructed, I.E. where the studs are and make sure you are mounting to them and not just drywall.
Here is good YouTube video of how to install the toggler toggle anchors.
Once you have a good solid board installed you have something strong enough to mount you TV too.
Before you install your board you should determining where the TV mount will be located and mark the location of the plate and the holes for the mounting bolts on the board.
Since it is a hanging mount i would not use lags or screws but instead i would use machine bolts into T-nuts.  Pre-drill your holes and mount the T-nut on the back side of the board. You will need to size the bolts, washers and T-nuts to work with your TV mount holes.
Here is a good YouTube video on T-nuts.


Rust on bathtub feet. Any way to provide support to bathtub without disassembling bath unit?

Instead of carpet or fabric, consider using 1-2" thick pink foam insulation. It's available at most construction type stores, withstands enough weight to support concrete floors without crushing, can be easily cut and carved to shape, and doesn't rust.


No Hot water to Shower and Taps furthest away from hot water tank

1) The red line that is teed into the blue line after the check valve could be used as a recirculating line to provide almost instant hot water to all the hot faucets. Make sure that you add a check valve in that line so you do not get reverse water flow when a faucet is turned on. 2) The supply line to the heat pump should come from the bottom of the storage tank so it utilizes the coldest water to be heated,  and not come off the hot supply from the storage tank.  3)The hot discharge from the heat pump should go to a separate tap near the middle of the tank if one is available. If a separate tapping  connection point is not available I would then tee it into the cold blue line at the tank supply but after the check valve. 4) I believe that a circulation pump is required in the heat pump line sized as per the heat pump's instruction sheet. 5) One last thing, if the red line I mentioned in item #1 is for a  recirculating line to insure almost instant hot water at each faucet it can stay as is and you will need to install a pump  on that line to circulate the water (buy the smallest pump you can) Mine is a B&G NBF-8S  103257LF 39 watts. 6) you said that you did not show the cold supply (mistake).


You'll end up getting different answers from different people.  Some folks actually will tell you to notch the bottom of the joist to let it sag back down before sistering the joist.  But IMHO, it would be best to know the cause and effect before making any permanent structural changes like this.

I had a similar problem (high joists in poorly constructed house, not bowed) and ended up just raising the other joists to be level with the high ones.  No structural changes, just shims on top of low joists.  Resulting subfloor was dead flat when all was said and done.  If your joists are truly bowed up in the middle, it will be more work since you won't be able to use uniform thickness shims.  Shims on the outside will have to be thicker than in the middle....


High temperature aluminum to copper connection

Parts for that model are still available.  Instead of trying to fabricate your own solution you can buy a new cord with connector for under $30. GE P/N AP4412100.

I'd also inspect the mating connector and replace that component too if it shows damage.


How to determine the sizes/arrangements of supply pipes?

Usually if you have multiple users from the same line, that line should be bigger in order to avoid unbalancing

EG: you have a toilet a sink and a shower, you should run 3/4 pipe across all and connect each user with a 1/2 manifold

Another solution, if you can't replace existing with bigger pipes, is to use 'automatic pressure balancer' on the lines serving all, so if a big pressure drop is found on cold water, the same pressure drop will be applied to cold water so, at each end, the pressure isn't different.


How to safely connect a gas insert to flexible steel?

Is there another safe way to make a connection the this hose?

NO there is not a SAFE way to use the damaged line in your photo.
A gas supply line has fittings pressed onto to it that are engineered for Flammable, dangerous, gas under pressure.
You need a new supply line.

To replace this part would require disassembling the fireplace,
opening up the wall, removing the baseboard and making an access whole
in a recently installed hardwood floor.

WHY? There has to be access to the other end where the the line is connected to a shut off valve, NO?


Wall mounting to 300 (w) x 200 (h) VESA specifications

I contacted the company directly - for anyone who has this issue in future it requires this configuration:


Holding plywood between bars for shelves?

If it doesn't need to hold much weight a cheap way would be to use a U bolt and U bracket.

Attach the U bolt to the vertical pipe, with the U bracket held behind it and screwed to the sheet.
A bit stronger, and probably not much more money, would be a shelf bracket held on by two hose clamps. This would allow several screws into the wood.

If you want to get fancier there are special clamps of all sorts for fastening things to metal tubes.  Search for example for temporary handrail hardware.
Here's an example of one that is very expensive.


What is the purpose of power going into a Phone Receptacle?

From your back side picture it is apparent that no small gauge low voltage wiring goes to the box with the four prong plug. So unlikely that the plug was used for wired phone service at any time in the near history.

It is almost sure that someone at one time wanted to power some ill conceived device with power through a four prong plug. If you open up that box you will undoubtedly find that some pins on that plug are wired into the power circuit that passes through that electrical box.

Sometimes it is just hard to understand some of the schemes that folks will dream up and cobble together, whether it is safe or not.


Outdoor outlet tripping all other outlets when used

If rain is getting into the box from outside, you could put a new rain resistant cover on the outlet which might solve the problem.

If there is a leak into the box that you cannot immediately stop, then you can remove the receptacle and wire the circuit through with wire nuts. This will prevent this one spot from tripping a GFCI breaker or receptacle. Wire nut connections are much more resistant to moisture than a receptacle.

I had to do this for a receptacle on an outside wall which was getting wet from a roof leak into the wall and tripping an essential circuit protected by a GFCI breaker. I used regular Scotchlok (red size) wire nuts, filled them with antioxidant paste, and turned the nuts upward so they would shed water. I attached a blank cover plate over the box.


How to reinforce a joist with plumbing running through it?

I had an electrician notch the top 5" of a 2x10 (9" old growth Douglas fir) in the middle of an 18' span.
I brought in a structural engineer and he said the 18' 2x10 was already over current span code limits without the 5" notch.  He specified 3/4" continuous ply gussets nailed to each side of the joist extending 18" past each side of the notch.  He allowed the gussets to only be the 4" height and fit under the notch.
In your case, you are not in the middle span, I assume this is the start of the joist?
The toilet rough in appears to have completely cut through the joist so there is no connection and it has been blocked to the side joist with a single 2x4 and a single nail.
You likely want to get a structural engineer to specify a prescriptive fix for this.  A site visit and prescription is likely to cost less than $1,000 and be well worth it.
You might be able to sister with steel that is shallow and could sit above and below the plumbing penetrations and not need to be sistered the full length of the joist.


You can probably just wipe it off with a bathroom cleaner or some diluted bleach. You should also determine the cause of it, otherwise it will just return. Often in bathrooms it is from a lack of ventilation.


Why is my bath hot water not so hot now that I have new taps?

In general (which is all we can do without specifics of "what new taps") bath and shower controls in the current era include an "anti-scald" feature which deliberately limits how hot the water coming out can be (by some means, which vary, and with more or less effectiveness...)

If replacing older taps, this may well reduce the maximum temperature you can get by a noticeable degree (pun works but not actually intended...)


Large gap between foundation wall and patio

Use wood to cover the end of the gap, mix cement and pour it in.


What should be the thickness of a glass table top

1/4" tempered glass should be fine. It's considerably stronger than the same thickness of normal glass, and also much safer in the event that you do manage to break it.

LED (or any other light source) into a glass sheet is normally injected at the edges (the LEDs being built into the table frame) - but it may not be all that exciting on a clear glass sheet (the ones you linked to were heavily textured - it needs to at least be frosted on one side for much light to get out.)


I'll give you the same advice I give everybody about saddle valves... Replace it with a proper tee.

Turn off the water.
Drain the line.
Cut the line so the tee will fit in.
Install the tee.
Install a shutoff on the leg of the tee feeding the humidifier.
Install the pipe that feeds humidifier.


What is a good plan for building cube bookcases with basic tools?

Congratulations on building your own book case. Here are a few tips.

Get a good large framing square. This tool will help you scribe square guide lines and also can be used as a guide for your circular saw to cut nice straight and square pieces of wood.

Use tiny head, counter sunk finish screws and wood glue to secure the pieces.

Make the bottom and top horizontal pieces full width. Fit the vertical upright pieces between them. Fit the shelves between the upright pieces.

Carefully measure and scribe the bottom edge location of your horizontal shelves on the vertical uprights.

Clamp a straight guide to these lines to help align the shelves to your lines before securing them to the sides.

Drill and countersink pilot holes for your screws so you won't split your wood.

Use glue on all joints.

Install a back or at least small 90 degree triangle pieces of wood or thin plywood on the back four or any parameter corners to assure your case doesn't rack or lean sideways when loaded.

Measure twice or three times, then cut once!!!

Fill your screw holes with lightweight spackle, sand smooth, prime, paint and enjoy.

Good luck


Well, from the name plate the max breaker size is 35 so that is the size breaker it should be on.

It is possible the breaker is going bad. Especially if it only trips occasionally and not immediately every time the compressor starts.

It is also possible the unit is going bad and only occasionally draws more than its rating. When the technician was there it just happened to be acting normally.

The cheapest fix is to try a new 35 amp breaker. If it continues to trip then you need to call the HVAC contractor back out for a more thorough examination.

Good luck!


Yes, 70% RH is too high for a 36 degree attic. And your advice is on the money: stop humidity from entering, and remove humidity from the space.
First, add vapor barrier caps to the lights, seal the hatch opening, and use duct seal or tape on all the ducting.
Second step, get some air changes happening. You could install an attic exhaust fan towards one end of the space, and put an intake grille at the opposite end.  The fan can exit air through a soffit vent, a gable vent, or a roof jack. Wire the fan with a line-voltage dehumidistat mounted in the attic not too close to the hatch.


Can I replace the aluminum cable of a single circuit with romex?

I want to use cable with copper conductors instead of aluminum if at all possible.

You really can't buy aluminum branch cable anymore, so copper is your only route here.
I would suggest going the extra mile here and buying some Alumiconns and converting to copper (they can be bought in 2-packs if you don't want to buy more than you need right now). Contrary to batplatsterson, I've actually found them decently easy to work with AND you permanently fix the problem so you can use copper wiring and fixtures anytime afterward. What he's likely thinking of are the Noalox-filled wiring nuts (they're purple), and those don't prevent the arcing risk of twisting the wires together.
That having been said, I did have one outdoor project where I did use a CO/ALR outlet to convert to copper, and I've not had any issues with it since. Still, I want to go back sometime and put Alumiconns there so I can get a proper GFCI in (no GFCI outlets are rated for aluminum).


Attractively anchor a wire cable into drywall

I'd find mounding hardware with a wide base, then use the 't-bolts' to anchor them (it's a bolt with spring-loaded 'wings' that expand inside the wall to grab the back-side of the sheetrock). The wider the base, the better, as it will distribute the load over a larger area of sheetrock.

As for tensioning, you really do want the turnbuckle, as the cable could stretch a bit over time.

Ikea has some decent systems we've used for curtains.

Oh, and just my own opinion, but I'd find a cable coming straight out of the sheetrock odd, visually. I'd embrace the mounting hardware as part of the look.


How much extra carpet do installers need?

Carpet isn't paint.  You can't infinitely cut and splice carpet and put a bunch of seams in it, and expect to have a surface that will wear well.

So you can't understand the problem until you know the dimensions of each space and also the dimensions of the supplied carpet.

It's just like if you buy cloth to make a pair of pants, and your waist is 44 inches, so each panel of the pants need to be about 13" wide, except the cloth you like comes in 40 inch wide bolts. You will end up wasting almost half the cloth. That's just how cutting and fitting works.

The installers are probably planning to run the carpet linearly down the hall so there are no seams in the hall, then do the side rooms with remnants if they are not able to fit it direct.


How do I paint stripes on a wall correctly?

I hate to tell you this, but you will have to either start over or make the stripes wider when you redo them. Unless you are some "gifted" artist, you aren't going to be able to free-hand those lines.

The hardest part about your dilemma is the fact that the wall has a rough surface. It's going to be pretty hard to achieve a "perfectly" straight line. However, the smudges can be prevented.

First of all, you can't use just any painter's tape. I used 3M Safe-Release tape for years until I found a few better tapes. Frog Tape works very well and they have different types depending on your surface. I recommend using Frog Tape Multi-Surface for your project.

Taping is not the only thing to keep in mind. When you paint your stripe you need to do what is called "feathering". Dip your brush and then wipe it nearly dry on the edge of the paint can. Apply the paint "away" from the edge of the tape. If you paint toward the tape edge you increase the chances of pushing the paint underneath the tape. Fill in the stripe by feathering it as well. The stripe will not cover the paint underneath yet. It should appear streaky and light. This is intentional, as you are creating a "tack coat" for the finish coat to better adhere to.

After you feather the stripe, wait about 30 minutes for the paint to dry about halfway (for latex paint). Afterwards, go back and feather the edges once more and fill in the stripe again. The stripe will be much richer and will cover better. Sometimes you might need to do a third coat. If you know that the color of your stripe isn't going to cover well (e.g., Pink over Yellow), you might need to use a stain blocker on the first coat. However, you will need to apply it very lightly and allow to completely dry before applying any finish paint.

I like to remove the tape while the paint is still wet. It prevents issues with the paint possibly sticking to the tape.


You done good.
It's doing its job and no risk of damage; sounds like you set it up perfect. The reason for more frequent kicks is for every increment you go deeper, you add that much more water spilling into the bucket but a sump float has a fixed height it kicks on. Your flow rate went up; the good news us you're draining more water from your basement than before which can add a nice bit of buffer relieving water further back from your sump pit than before.


Can I add a second disconnect main breaker load panel from the meter trough?

Years ago 3 wire was ok but since the 99 code if memory serves, 4 wire is required, no additional ground rod is required on a connected structure but a separate structure requires an additional ground rod. I have wired quite a few connected and separate buildings including my personal residences since this time.

Removing the meter will protect from back feeding but would not be a normal code compliant method of using a generator
A 10-3 feeder will only provide 30 amps of power no mater what size the sub panel is.

The best plan is to have a code compliant transfer switch or interlock kit. I know several people that have been back charged for years because of new wiring and a cut seal. They went back to the date on the wire and said the owner modified the meter that was out of calibration. I was only able to help the 1 home owner that I had cut the seal and made a new connection. Back then I had seals but they did not match the electric company’s data so they went back to the date on the wires + 10 years prior, I just replaced the panel with a better quality , permitted, the other 2 had to pay thousands, so don’t think you are getting away with anything and any changes if not permitted and done by a electrician. In the old days I had several sets of seals given to me by the power companies, I put the tag numbers on receipts and permit cards that I did.
I would not want to make a change without making sure my customer is protected, it used to never be questioned, but after having seen several people get thousands of dollars back charges for changes (and I doubt they messed with the meter) were charged because the seal was broken and the date they could prove a change was made. Hope this helps but after seeing this I would be careful and not try and cheat because someone may cheat you in the long run.


Can I add a non-GFCI receptacle in the garage for a freezer?

Lets start with a little history. Before 2014 the NEC did not require GFCI protections to outlets that were not readily accessible.  After 2014 all receptacles in the garage shall be GFCI protected. for reference that would be NEC Article 210.8(A)(2). The NEC Handbook also notes, there are no exceptions because, Appliance leakage currents permitted by today's product standard are far less than the operational threshold of a GFCI, so nuisance tripping is unlikely. That's verbatim.

This has always been a sticky wicket since some people have appliances that were manufactured before 2014. I have found most AHJ are sympathetic since they are there to serve the community. What I have found in discussing this with them is that many times they will allow you to use a non GFCI receptacle so long as the circuit is dedicated to that one inaccessible location.

That's about the best I have good luck.


Are there pet friendly insecticides that kill only spiders?

Perhaps you could use spider traps?  Basically a triangular or rectangular pasteboard tube covered with adhesive inside.  Probably safe for pets if they don't chew it.


it was the contactor after all. I replaced it and everything turned on just fine. After inspecting the old contactor, I saw it looked like a bug caused the burn. New contactor has a protective cover so bugs won't get in easy.


How can I use bulk electrical wire to make a subfloor heating system?

Just don't. This is clearly the best answer.

If you really want to cheap out perhaps you could buy a complete kit with just one square foot mat, analyze the wire used, and try to source a designated radiant wire of similar dimension and resistance.  Then fold and spindle that in a similar way to the mat squares.

Remember your fire insurance likely excludes work done in flagrant violation of the building codes.  Use of regular copper wire, while possible, is just not advised.


What nail size for 1/2" bevel cedar siding?

Since it is cedar It needs to be fastened with stainless steel nails or otherwise you will  have issues with the tannins in the cedar. It will bleed gray if galvanized nails are used.

I would do this by hand to keep from cracking the siding, but if you want to use a nail gun, you will need a siding nail gun. The framing gun you have pictured will not be nice to the siding, it will set the nails way too deep. 2" nails will hold what you need as long as you have OSB or plywood subsiding. If your house is older and has 3/4" 1X laid diagonally it will work too. In any case nail into the studs. Set all your joints on the studs as well. Some folk set a piece of flashing under the joint, over the lower piece to redirect any water from getting too far into the joints. Tar paper strips have worked in the past as well but it was a very heavy grade of paper, 30lb felt at least.

To minimize splitting keep the nails about 1" up from the bottom, the lap of siding should be about 1 1/4", do not nail above the top of the lower piece for it will readily crack the siding. At least with hand nailing it is prone to, perhaps not so much with a nail gun.

Again I always nailed this by hand and if a piece cracked, it was cut shorter to eliminate the crack, which is a PITA, so that's why the hand nailing, for once a nail gun's trigger is pulled, what's done is done. Good or bad....


Removing Seized Anode Rod From Water Heater

You have certainly given it the effort to remove that stubborn anode rod. More intensive effort could very well damage the unit.

With a water heater that sounds like it is over 20 years old it might make sense to simply replace it. You have gone to all the trouble to remove it from its hiding place now would be a good time to place a new one with higher efficiency ratings in place instead of the old one.

Another thing to consider is that if the anode rod is that corroded there may well be other parts that are similarly corroded. There could even be corrosion pitting of the tank itself that may soon penetrate the tank and create a leak.


Those are RJ45s not RJ11s. RJ11's only have 4 pins. An RJ11 fits into the center 4 pins of this jack though.

Q1 Whether one is left or right I can't tell but the top is definitely for one jack and the bottom is for the other jack.

Q2 leave your white on 5 and blue on 4 like all the diagrams below. You can use 568A and the orange pair for the second line connected to 3 and 6 that would be the traditional second line color. The phone doesn't care which color you use as long as they go to the other end.

Hopefully it is obvious that you will not be able to use these jacks for data even though they will accept a data plug.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/T568A/B#Wiring


Clarification: I think that there was a miscommunication in the post that you are referencing. It would be illegal for a neutral wire to be shut off (disengaging a light or device by breaking the neutral conductor). brhans didn't mean the fixture was hot (breaking neutral). brhans was saying the hot passes through the BOX and goes to the switch, and CarlWitthoft was confused, saying that a hot wire connected to the fixture would be illegal (meaning the switch was breaking neutral).

It is legal for (hot) wires to pass through a junction box. NEC Chart 314.16.A says how many wires (sizes) are allowed in various (sized) boxes.


pigtailed aluminum replacing regular receptacle to GFI

Almost everything in mains is done in hot-neutral pairs.  GFCIs are no exception. LINE has 2 terminals, brass and silver, and is used by a hot/neutral pair - both black and white wires go to it. These would be your two pigtails.

LOAD is used not at all, unless you intend to use the particular feature it supports, and you know exactly what you're doing.  That's why it has warning tape on it.   You do not seem to know what that feature is, which is fine; simply don't use it.

Use an AFCI+GFCI breaker instead

Some people say install a GFCI breaker which protects the whole circuit.  It's true, it'll be cheaper than GFCI receptacles at every socket or 4 alumiconns for doing it in this box.  but think bigger.

Arc Fault protection (AFCI) is absolutely perfect for protecting aluminum wiring.  It detects the thing that is most worrisome.  AFCI has to be installed at the breaker because it protects the wires.

They make combination AFCI+GFCI breakers that cost only $10 more than a GFCI breaker.  That is the thing to use.


Can I use spackling paste to "rebuild" part of the wall?

Joint compound (not "spacking paste") is designed for exactly that purpose. Your repair isn't that different from a typical taping job. One doesn't normally sand that much from a wall.

Use a large knife or trowel (12" or bigger) and taper it out at least that far.


Yes.   They can be however far apart the builder wants them.   I have used 3-4 studs within 16" when doing bathrooms, high traffic corner, in bathrooms for showers... and have installed an extra stud because of a previous mistake.
I only use magnetic stud finder (finds your screws).
If you use a method and you just aren't 100% sure the best thing to do is a test with a monkeyhook.   These take literally 10 seconds to test with no equipment and only leave a tiny pinhole.   If you hit something... boom got a stud.   If you don't no one will notice (you can cover the pinholes with similar colored toothpaste!).   Also monkeyhooks are great for holding smaller picture frames.
Also adding based on comments on plumbing:

Paramagnetic metals are weakly attracted to magnets, and include
platinum, tungsten, aluminum and magnesium. Ferrimagnetic metals like
magnetite are also attracted to magnets, while diamagnetic metals like
silver and copper are repelled by them.

Your magnet will slightly repel (and have tested) on copper (obviously stud finder or magnetic stud finder will not find pex).
To add specifically to mounting:  You can remove drywall and add cross bracing.   You are basically ruining that small section anyway.   If you want to beef it up - it takes 30 mins.


Can a 20 amp GFCI outlet be daisy chained to 15 amp outlets

Yes, this is specifically allowed by code (NEC).

A 20A general use circuit can supply 15A or 20A receptacles.


Substance to help cold patch adhere better?

FWIW: I like to use the liquid crack filler for that purpose.  Pour/smear it around on the joining surfaces.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Latex-ite-1-Gal-2X-Premium-Blacktop-Crack-Filler-2XCFC/100080909


Panel breakers are alternately 90 V and 140 V

Call the power company NOW and report a power outage

The fact that you've worked on your panel is unrelated.  Given the testing you just did and the results you got -- you have a power outage at the meter pan or before.  It could be where the neutral service wire connects to your neutral bar, but that's the only place it could be on your side, and super easy to check.

To be more precise, the type of outage is a "Lost Neutral".

Loss of a supply wire at or before the meter pan is a power outage.

If the dead supply wire is a hot, half your panel will work.  If the dead supply wire is a neutral, your 240V loads will work and your 120V loads will have scary weird voltages on them.

It's still a power outage and should be treated as such.

As long as you are confident in the quality of the connection between your neutral service wire and your neutral bus, you should button up the panel and there's no reason to show it to the power company.  Everything they'll care about will be at the meter pan or their side of it.

DON'T procrastinate this or try to work around it by balancing loads etc.

Seriously, unless you plan to shimmy up a pole with a set of Allen sockets, every possible path ends with you calling the power company and them fixing their service-drop issue.  Which they will do for free, same-day and probably 10 minutes up on the pole.  And then you'll be like "darn it Harper, why didn't you lead with 'Call the power company', why send me in circles doing all that other stuff first?"


Programmable light switch failing or acting oddly?

Your switch is wired up wrong
The RPLS530 does not require neutral, according to its instructions; however, yours appears to be incorrectly wired.  According to the instructions, C and 2 need to be connected to the incoming hot in a single-pole setup like yours, while 1 connects to the switched-hot off to the fixture.  I would expect the switch to function incorrectly in your current wiring (with 1 and 2 to always-hot and C to switched-hot); however, it does not explain your current behavior, so I would suspect the switch has failed, based on the troubleshooting you've done so far.
It appears that you have no neutral at the box
Furthermore, it appears that you have no neutral at your switch box, since I see no wires spliced through in the back of the box in your picture.  This means that you'll want to go with another RPLS530A, or a similar type that does not require neutral, as your replacement switch.  You'll need to obey the device's minimum load rating when you do, though; for the RPLS530A, you need to provide at least 40W of load for the switch to power up properly.


Aluminum Service Entrance Cable path alongside exterior wall

Handsome marine plywood cabinet

built to keep the telephone splicebox out of the weather.   It is on the same wall as the meter, and its bottom is just above the point where the SE cable enters the building.  The diagonal run of SE cable is fastened to its bottom.  Good thing that cabinet was there, otherwise the SE cable would be dangling in space!

The conduit method

You come through the wall with the minimum size conduit able to handle your wires.  Then you have an upsize fitting up to 3" conduit at least, so pulling is easier.  Picture a clock projected on the slat wall where the hole is.   You can't go out toward 9:00 because a 3" conduit body won't fit.   So you go out at 11:00.  Where are you aiming for? Note the unused knockout on the left side bottom of the meter housing. There's one on the other side.  Imagine a conduit going straight out from that toward the wall.   You can try a 90 bend, or just use another conduit body where they meet.

Don't wrestle that SE cable, now that you're in conduit, go back to the store and get some THWN-2. Stay with Al if you can, but if you feel you just can't bend it, then go Cu.  Install one wire at a time, so the workload is easier.  That's why the conduit is oversize!

You'll need to either lower the phone PNI, or add some spacers for it to sit on, as the conduit will go right through its space.