Regardless of who's responsible money wise, you should call your utility company's repair line now.  If it's before the meter, they need to be involved in disconnecting the service either way.

Generally they will send someone out to inspect it and let you know if it needs repairs.  They'll also tell you whether you need to pay for the repairs or not...but either way they need to look at it right away, so it makes no difference in what you need to do.

Different hydro companies have different rules, but generally the demarcation point (where it goes from being their problem to your problem) is either at the top of the service stack, or at the terminals on the house's side of the meter.  Everything before there is their job to fix.


Are you a condo owner or are you renting an apartment?  If you're renting, take good, clear photographs showing the location, extent, and appearance of any damage before you report it and keep dated records of all communications and changes in condition. Before doing any demolition to look into the walls or ceiling contact your landlord/HOA/POA first.

When I lived in an apartment, the landlord had some changes made to the deck above and beside my unit. It caused rainwater to run into the wall and ceiling of my unit, causing major mold and structural issues.  When I moved out he tried to say I damaged the unit and bill me for the repairs but I had dated copies of photographs and letters where I notified him in writing of the leaks, resulting damage, and requested repairs, showing it went on for over a year with no response from him.  I got my whole deposit back.

Can you post a picture to help us understand the extent and location of the damage?


We have fought this problem in our rentals before with success using the following techniques.

What doesn't work:  Foggers.  We treated the rental for MONTHS with weekly applications of foggers - 3 or 4 anti bedbug foggers per floor - hundreds of dollars spent - and the tenants had to leave the building for half a day every week and then deal with the stink and the toxic residues left behind.  Not fun, and didn't work at all because bedbugs DON'T hang out where the fumes can get to them.

So, what do you need to do?

First, buy insect resistant, zippered mattress covers.  These are usually some kind of plastic.  You wrap each mattress in its own cover and zip it shut tight, sealing the bedbugs within the mattress inside.  You must take care not to rip these covers or the bugs can get out again.  This is done during the treatment process and for some time beyond.

Second, and this is the big step -  Treat your entire house with diatomaceous earth (DE).  DE is a non toxic, non pesticide means of controlling pests.  It's a crushed silica product that is effective in killing not via poison, but by cutting the outer membrane of small insects.

Unlike most dust/powder which is smooth from erosion, DE has microscopic sized jagged edges.  Many types of insects have an external shell which is coated with a kind of mucous membrane which helps them retain water.  DE slices that membrane to shreds, and the bugs lose all of their moisture to evaporation, so they die of dehydration, NOT poison.

You can buy food grade DE online.  It's safe to use around the house, and you can even dust your pets with it (keep away from the face, of course).  We have three dogs and when fleas get in the house, we dust the animals and the areas they sleep with DE.

Now bedbugs are not jumpers, so the key with dealing with them is getting the DE where they live and where they travel.

Where they live:  Your furniture.  Those mattress covers?  Open em up and dust both sides of the mattress LIBERALLY with DE, then close it up again.  The bedbugs will get coated in it as they crawl around looking for an escape.

Your sofa/chairs - if you can, dust the INSIDES of larger pieces of furniture - heavily.  Also apply dust in all the cracks and crevices.

Remove the wall plates - use a dusting sprayer like this:

and spray that dust into all the electrical junction boxes - the idea is to force the dust into the walls where bedbugs travel.  (They don't like open areas, they prefer tight spaces and corners.

Also put a ring of dust down around your bed posts where they touch the floor, along the edges of the walls.   Dust your carpets with it to.

I personally bought my supplies at Dirtworks ( http://www.dirtworks.net/Diatomaceous-Earth.html ) - I bought 2 five pound bags of food grade DE (which was 1 bag too many, honestly), a few puffer bottles, the glimmer sprayer, and we did ONE heavy application all over the entire property (we even dusted the lawn with the sprayer) and never had a bedbug complaint again.


How long does it take to add 1 lb. of refrigerant to an air conditioning unit?

That sounds about right. It usually takes 5-15 minutes for me to fill 1 lb.


GFCI outlet trips when one one device is plugged in even when it is off

If it's tripping the GFCI it is almost certainly defective.  you could ask a second GFCI for a second opinion.


How do I troubleshoot an intermittent problem with a ceiling light/fan?

After 30 years as an electrician, most 95% of all electrical problems I've seen are caused by poor connections.

The best connection for outlets (receptacles) is to pigtail the wires by first twisting the white (neutrals) together and the blacks (hot) with a separate wire for each going to the terminal screws on the receptacle. Torque the connection sufficiently to avoid a high resistance connection, which will generate heat under load.

Many less skilled workmen insert wires into the back of a receptacle, and over time they work their way back out or open up because of high resistance.

Make sure the power is off or consult an electrician.


Is this an alternate vent connection for my clothes dryer or does it serve another purpose?

If it looks like dryer vent (location location location & size)
& it smells like dryer vent (gets hot and wet when using the dryer)
& quacks like dryer vent (you hear it, and its hot and wet, and it vibrates)

..... It is a dryer vent.

There are many posts on this forum and threads online where contractors have improperly used PVC for dryer vent. Just because PVC is used on high efficiency furnaces or water heaters does not make it safe for dryer use. It may not be PVC and most likely isn't.

The problem here is that the gasses the dryer produces are supposed to go through the pipe and then OUTSIDE. It is not safe for there to be holes or exit points for the exhaust INSIDE. While no one can say what levels are produced by your dryer, what can say is it will fluctuate. If the duct gets clogged, WHICH IT WILL! THEY ALL DO! (and this is why it is imperative you have it cleaned every 6-12 months or so on average; your mileage will vary), then the burn quality of the gas will be reduced, in addition, the clogged vent will force air wherever it can... Inside your home?

Next, the flexible ductwork - its best to have a rigid metal duct system in place but people use the flexible because its fast and simple. For short runs, its generally fine. If your run is long, it is not. If this system has a "T" unit in its line (it looks like it does) it really shouldn't, and this will "catch" lint as it blows past it. An odd plus here, is this gives you easy access to clean it out. (but its still a point gas can escape).

The one picture shows the dryer gas inlet as a straight 180 out of the dryer and they put the flexible gas line right to it, it (the dryer) is now pushed against the wall (by everyone that touches it), and the line is in danger of being kinked. This needs a 90 degree elbow to prevent this.

The dryer appears to be installed right where a beam in the wall is, so they went to the side quite a ways so there is now two bends, and the flexible duct may be getting compressed/squished in its compromised tight quarters.

They hacked the drywall and left it that way. Thus compromising the wall void. Completely avoidable. You can buy metal or plastic boxes to make this pretty and accessible:

Example website with pictures, (not promoting this company over any other)

This install was done poorly, sloppy, and wrong. You stated this is a new build house, I would have a home inspector, or family friend or relative take a walk through the home and make sure everything else is "right". They wont see everything, but they may find other issues you can get addressed under warranty perhaps.

Good luck.


Sealing OSB subfloor from moisture? Patching small gouges?

If you really want to stop moisture from getting to the subfloor then a membrane under your tile would be better than sealing the OSB. Better to stop it before it gets there than trying to seal the wood.

Tile and grout are not waterproof and if exposed to water regularly the water will work its way into the sub-flooring.

Good luck!


Does every deck stair with stringers longer than 6 feet need mid-span support?

It is not possible to use a solid stringer mid-tread, so where the code addresses increased span allowance for use of solid stringers, there is a presumption that the middle stringers (if any) are cut. Your 48" width will need two cut stringers, because anything exceeding 36" width need max stringer spacing of 18"OC. There is no support or span requirement that is dependent on stringer depth. Max span 13' 3" (or 16' 6" for southern pine). All stringers shall be minimum 2 x 12.
Your 4' wide 13' span stair will have plenty of support with the 4 required stringers...


Disassemble the fitting and try RTV silicone from an auto parts store. Allow the joint to set up overnight if possible. Brass fittings are hard to seal, and do not tighten too much. Brass is soft and will stretch. If you have tightened to where almost no thread is showing on the connection, you may have to  replace the fittings. No teflon or pipe dope, just RTV silicone.


How can I fill a large container in a shallow sink?

You could also get one of these items and use it to transfer water from the sink tap to the Brita water filter/pitcher.


How to protect sill plate from water when slab is bigger than the structure sitting on it?

Not sure if this is "correct", but one solution would be to lay one course of block underneath the sill plate. This would keep the plate plenty high above the concrete. You would probably still want to slightly taper the outer edge of the slab away from the building, to avoid water sitting there and seeping in through the block.


You have an old-style switch loop

A common wire-saving trick up until very recently was to use a /2 cable to run a switch loop, with one wire for the always-hot and the other for the switched-hot.  This means that a white is used for a hot, though, which is why the NEC specifies that the hot white is supposed to be tagged with a wrap of black (or some other color than white, green, or grey) electrical tape.  However, lazy installers often skipped that because it was "obvious", and the NEC gave them the latitude to do so up until recently.

So, grab some black (or better yet, red) electrical tape and wrap it around the solo white wire -- this connects to the fixture black wire, as it's the switched-hot.  The fixture white wire connects to the bundled white wires, which are the neutral.  Grounds connect together, of course (although you'll have to cut off the crimp used and replace it with a wirenut), and the existing bundle of black wires is not touched (as it's the always-hots -- your existing problem was caused by connecting the fixture black to the bundle of black wires).


Best way to avoid pipe freeze in exterior wall?

Bear in mind that even though precautions are made, it is still possible for the pipes to freeze in a particularly harsh winter.

You are going to want a shut off valve with a built in drain on it. This will allow you to winterize it. The shutoff should be located in an accessible place which is below where the tap will be. If you are on the first floor, then the shutoff should go in the basement/crawl space.

When you install the plumbing, you will want to keep the supply pipes as close to the inside wall as possible. In a 2 x 6 wall, you would want to bore the holes in the studs slightly off center, approx. 1" to 1 1/2" from the inside instead of dead center. You will also need to install a nail protection plate on the studs where the pipe passes through, so the pipe would not get pierced when the drywall is installed. It would also be a good idea to add a tile backsplash which completely covers the area where the pipe is, so someone won't drive a nail or a screw into the pipe later on.

This will allow you to add more insulation behind the pipe. The best insulation for this is closed cell foam, since it acts as a vapor barrier as well. You will want to eliminate any possible cold drafts that could hit the pipe. Also, when you insulate, you will want to leave the side of the pipe facing the inside uninsulated. This will allow more heat from the house to come in contact with the pipe.

If you can live without the pot filler during the winter months, the safest thing would be to winterize it. That way there is no chance that the pipes would freeze. You can also leave the water on a tiny bit and let it drip slowly on the coldest days to prevent it from freezing up. The good thing about PEX is that it can survive being frozen from time to time, but it is possible that the fittings themselves can fail.


Brick Wall separated from home and collapsed

I would want to repair the wall to the top of the window. It appears the window height is the same as the door. This would eliminate needing to call the power company to drop power to the house when you move the meter base and the need to re do the window and door casements. If you really want the brick gone, the bottom of the window would be the next best location to stop in my opinion.


adding 15 amp device to 50 amp circuit: is this wiring going to work and be safe?

Do you really need that large a unit?
Based on your friend's report, it sounds like, if anything, your unit will be too large.  You're doing it for medical reasons not comfort, so you say.
Given the ever-rising SEER numbers (efficiency) we're seeing from consumer tier units, you may be better off simply seeking a 120V unit.
Those SEER numbers reflect how much you will be paying for electricity so it's a very big deal.
Definitely do not take a "hand-me-down" unit without looking closely at SEER numbers.  Many "gift / side-of-road / hand-me-down" A/C units are older, and did not benefit from the very rapid gains in A/C efficiency made in recent years.  A typical 8000+ BTU unit these days only needs about 5 amps @ 120V. You'd have no trouble running 2 on a single 120V/20A circuit.
240V units are largely gone by the wayside; they don't need the energy anymore... the ones that remain mostly support 240V because they are needed for installations already wired for 240V.
Lastly, if you consider a "portable" air conditioner (the kind with a hose that goes out a window, it's very important that you consider a 2-hose one.  2 hoses seems like an anti-feature until you learn how they work.

From a comment in chat:

I know the whole thing is arithmetically wrong, I have 50 coming in, and I want 50+20 out, so that is why I don't want to run both devices at the same time, at least not at capacity

... and that's the biggest worry you have?  Not
the comical cavalcade of Code violations...
It seems like you want to "freestyle" safety based on your lay impressions of electrical safety.  The entire point of Code is to pass down the paid-for-in-blood experience of a century of electrical use, so you don't have to pay in blood for a lesson already learned.
That is especially relevant in a condo, when your electrical fire could kill innocents in other units.  I guarantee there's a city ordinance, or HOA rule, that says you must use a licensed electrician for work in the unit.  Weren't we just talking about new-air-conditioner finances, and "good money after bad"?
The use of a circuit breaker is a good sentiment, but you can't just use some random loose circuit breaker in some random enclosure.  You must use approved equipment and enclosures (NEC 110.2) and install it according to its instructions (NEC 110.3) in a neat and workmanlike manner (NEC 110.12) and with appropriate working space (NEC 110.26).  And this is just the first few pages of NEC.
The oven/range circuit must be dedicated to oven/range.  You are only allowed to have one load/outlet on a 50A breaker (NEC 210.23) unless it's one of the listed exceptions (ranges/ovens covered in NEC 210.23(C)).  An air conditioner is not cooking equipment and is not allowed under the NEC 210.23(C) exception.
Further, your range is already too large for a 50A circuit.  It's only on one because of a Code exception (NEC 220.55) which factors for the fact that not all burners are at 100% duty cycle all the time.  When you add non-range equipment to the circuit, you void that discount and now your circuit is way too small.
Your logic, "all my burners are not 100% all the time" is correct but Code has already factored for that - there's no headroom there.
A 50A circuit can only have 50A receptacles on it. NEC 210.21(B)(3).  So there's no such thing as tapping a 50A circuit to a 15/20A receptacle.
Even when you're in industrial spaces where you can use the tap rules to full effect, you're still talking about hardwired loads.
And I haven't even started into Article 440, which is the section applicable to air conditioners. I'm sure plenty of violations are there too, but no point beating a dead horse.
You're gonna spend more on Polaris connectors than a subpanel would cost!
So it's simple enough.  Use a subpanel.
You currently have a 50A branch circuit from main panel to range.  Route that to a subpanel, at which point it is a 50A feeder.  You then install 2 breakers on the subpanel, a 50A and a 15A.
Now we sidestep all the above Code violations, because we're no longer torturing a branch circuit.
We now have 2 individual branch circuits, each following its own rules - the range keeps its favorable derate, and the 15A A/C circuit is definitely allowed a 15A receptacle.
As far as the "50A+15A > 50A" concern you have, the 50A feeder supply breaker will take care of that.
Do you really need a 50A breaker in the panel when the panel is fed from a 50A breaker?  Yes.  The supply line is feeder.  You can't put loads on a feeder, and a breaker is ten bucks, so who cares?
Now we just need to work out the Article 110 issues about approved equipment and working space.  Use the smallest subpanel you can find - a 2-space panel will suffice with a 15/50 quadplex breaker in it. Run of the mill Eaton, Siemens etc. stuff from the hardware store will satisfy NEC 110.2.  Install it competently, and we tick off 110.3(B).
The real nut is the working space - you need 30" wide x 36" deep x 78" high working space in front of the panel.   Surely there are either kitchen cabinets next to this oven.  I would hack a kitchen cabinet's shelves so there is room for the subpanel to sit right at the front of the cabinet facing outward. It will block some of the cabinet's space, making it inconvenient to put things on the shelves, but this is the best we can do.  So you open the cabinet door and voilà, there is the face of the subpanel right there.  Presumably you walk around that area a lot, so there is 30x36 working space floor to ceiling, should be all set.
The panel might be inset maybe an inch from the face of the cabinet doors... an inspector might flag that, but I doubt it. Putting subpanels behind cabinet doors for aesthetics is perfectly common.


Bidet sprayer install and toilet leak at supply line

Probably what happened is the black plastic nut on the supply line cracked. It looks pretty old and might have been over-tightened when you hooked it up to the bidet. You said the supply line can't be replaced - but it can. The supply line looks like pex and runs straight out of the wall. Is there a shutoff for it? Or did you have to turn off the water at the main?
I don't know how handy you are but if it's pex or something similar and there's no shutoff you should install one at the wall. You can get a 1/4 turn shutoff with a pex connection at a home center store. Purchase a new flexible supply line for a toilet so it will have the correct size fitting to attach to either the tank or the bidet.


Could be an overload
This is a 240V (2-pole) breaker. Given the 20A size, it is perfectly legal for it to feed both 120V and 240V loads, and I suspect the pool pump is a 240V load.
A 20A 240V/2-pole breaker has two poles (legs) of 20A each.
A 120V load can draw off one leg and neutral, and it will draw the amps it says.
A 240V load will draw off both legs at once and will draw the amps it says.
So for instance, your pool pump draws 10A from L1 and 10A from L2.
Your washer draws 20A from L1.   Let's add em p.

L1:  10A pool pump.  20A washer.  Total 30A
L2:  10A pool pump.  Total 10A.

30A is more than 20A.  Whoops!
Or,  it could be a ground fault problem
That particular breaker is a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor) breaker.  It is looking out for ground faults, which is leakage from the places power is supposed to be, to places power is not supposed to be.
Such leakage is exceedingly common with electrical machines that handle water.
It can also happen in wiring, particularly outdoor wiring.
If you are getting trips when the washing machine is not running, this is likely the problem.
You would need to eliminate one appliance at a time by unhooking all of its wires (hot(s) AND neutral) from the system.  You must unhook neutral or the test will be invalid.   You don't need to unhook safety ground.     If you unhook an appliance and the problem goes away, that appliance is faulty.


Should I replace the plywood subfloor when replacing the ceramic tile?

No, unless the surface is so severely damaged (or you can't remove enough mortar) that installation of new tile would be difficult.

You might find that a commercial floor sander with a coarse grit works well to smooth the remaining mortar, which is not terribly dense.


What should I look for in a battery backup sump pump?

A battery backup sump pump is a device with a very limited scope of benefits - for a short power outage, the capacity of the sump itself will be adequate until power comes on again. For some particular scope of power outage and water flow a battery backup that's actually working well will keep you dry, and then for longer power outages or higher water flows the battery will expire before the power returns, and you get flooded anyway. Backup batteries eventually fail, and battery test routines are not always reliable, so you can never be quite sure exactly how long the battery will last in practice until you need it. Things to look for and/or ask about are the battery testing routine, the continuous run time or pumping volume from a battery charge at your required discharge lift (stats for 0 feet look great, but have no application to real life use) and whether an additional battery (preferably generic, such as golf-cart batteries) can be easily added, or if the pump is somehow dependent on a specialized and often expensive manufacturer-specific battery pack. At least check the cost of the replacement battery, and how often replacement is recommended, to get some idea of what you are getting into for ownership costs.

Are you on (city/town/some sort of public utility supplied) water? Does it provide water pressure when power is out? If so, a water-powered backup sump pump is going to be far more reliable than a battery-powered one. No batteries to fail, and few moving parts to fail, either.

If your water pressure vanishes with a power loss (ie, you have an electric well pump), that's not an option.

For possible failure of a normal electric-powered pump, having two pumps with different float settings can be sufficient, though it works better if you are the sort of person who will actually remember to change the float settings every year, so each one gets used as the "primary" pump. A smart pump controller that actually alternated pumps every time water needed to be pumped, and which ran both when one was not keeping up (or not working) would be nice, but I don't know if such a thing is actually made, other than having one custom-made. (Evidently they are made, though I have the impression that the market could stand a bit more competition to get the prices down to a more reasonable point.)

If there is any way to fix your drainage to not depend on a sump pump, that will cost you less in the long run even if it's fairly expensive to begin with. When that's not possible, it's arguable that a design error was made in the placement or depth of your house, and your mitigation options are on the one hand to make and maintain a considerable investment in battery backup sump pumps (and replacement batteries over time) or some type of auto-start generator and regular sump pumps, or to decorate and furnish  (or simply use) the affected area in a manner that minimizes the impact of infrequent flooding when power outages and water ingress align (ceramic tile rather than carpet, etc.) You may also be able to increase your sump capacity (more, deeper, or larger sumps) to increase the amount of time between power loss and actual flooding at floor level.


Remove a light switch to an outlet - knob and tube

The best solution is to replace all old cloth insulated wiring.

If you can't replace a section of cloth insulated wiring the next best solution is to not touch it at all, because  deteriorating insulation will deteriorate much faster every time you touch it.

If you are forced to touch a cloth wired circuit, re-insulate with either heat shrink tubing or electrical tape everything exposed while working on it, and upgrade the breaker to AFCI. Given the likely age of any cloth wiring you encounter today, all circuits that you can't rewire should be upgraded to AFCI breakers. Unfortunately, if your circuits have any of their neutrals crossed or shared AFCI won't work and using the new breakers would still require a rewiring. As another response pointed out what you are doing is safe and legal as long as the insulation is in tact, which is always the question with this type of wire. Where the wire's only contact with anything else are the glass knobs, it is safe even without insulation unless something does come in contact with both wires for any reason.

I completely rewired my house, the original wiring was approximately 100 years old, most of the insulation was still in very good shape, but there were also places where it crumbled to dust the moment it was disturbed.


The order you have your filters is the correct order. You don't need to waste money on chlorine filters to have better tasting water in your toilets.

If you think you need additional sediment filtration I believe you can find a carbon filter with better sediment filtration to use at each sink. Those housings also take GE brand filters and other filters of that size so look around to see if there's something suitable.

If you can't find anything you may want to consider adding an additional housing at each sink so you can have an independent sediment filter as well as a carbon filter. You can also try replacing your current filter housing with a 2 or 3 stage under counter filtration system that includes a separate spout for filtered water so you don't waste your filter media for things like washing dishes.


Restoring an old fridge; should I add a ground wire?

I don't see the harm in adding the ground wire.  All neutral wires end up going to the neutral bar in the main panel that is mounted directly on the metal box just like ground wires are mounted directly a ground bar that is mounted to the box. Sub-panels are different having an isolated neutral bar but everything goes back to the main. House panels here in California have the neutrals and grounds going to the same bar.  In all actuality if you go from hot to neutral with a volt meter you will get 120v and when you go from hot to ground you will get 120v. Adding the ground to the frame of the refrigerator will just be a more direct route for the ground to take at the fridge.  You might want to ohm it out between the hot and ground before testing on a life circuit, making sure there is no continuity.


Help me figure out my wood shed foundation!

Digging a little deeper and setting the piers on gravel seems to help them heave less, but if you go below the frost line they should be pretty solid.
Digging to that depth by hand is slow work, the first foot is cake, the second foot a little slower, the third foot quite slow, the fourth foot is like digging with a table spoon.

You could support the five 4x4 rails with a post / pier at either end, and one in the middle;  that's 15 piers, a lot of work.  It will be practically like digging three 10' footers.

You could use six piers, four in the corners, plus one in the middle of the 12' sides, and build three 10' beams on 12' rim joists.  That's a manageable amount of digging and building piers but you have to frame the joists / beams and the shed's going to sit higher, you'll need to build a ramp.

I think because the shed was made to set on a level surface, you're going to be better off pouring a pad.


How to clean my jetted tub when commercial cleaners fail?

I have seen some horrible garden or jetted tubs growing stuff and that was one of the reasons I got 1 place at 1/4 market value on a short sale. Drain the tub ether purchase several gallons of liquid chlorine or a couple gallons of bleach.

First fill the tub with plain water as full as practical) and run the pump you want to get rid of any cleaning chemical residue drain, you may want to do this 2x if your last treatment is not removed. Fill the tub with water and add 2 full gallons of bleach or chlorine, turn the pump on and the exhaust fan. Let run for 1 hour, let sit for an hour (this allows the strong chlorine to get in the air passages for the bubbles and kill anything in there. Run the pump for another hour or longer.
Drain the tub and fill with cold water, run the pump for a couple of minutes and drain. Fill again run then drain again.

If this does not clear it up get 1/2 gallon of 25% hydrogen peroxide. Fill the tub with hot water and add the peroxide, the peroxide will increase the heat in the water, run , let sit like before for a few cycles drain and rinse.

I used this method on a home that had a sewer back up into the tub and stuff was growing on the surface yuk. I replaced the broken drain line and over night the tub was like new after polishing the surface. Total cost was approximately 30$ and about 6 hours filling and draining.


How can I get a reasonable plaster finish in an awkward recess?

I'd use joint compound, and smooth it in with a putty knife as smoothly as possible.  Then, when it's dry, use a damp sponge to smooth it over to a paintably smooth surface.


Toilet bubbles and gurgles after capping vent stack

The bubbling and gurgling sounds from the toilet(s) is an indication of poor venting or a plugging issue. Also, you should not have to "flush it a couples off times for things to go down" unless there is a special circumstance (like too much paper... or something).

Call a reputable licensed plumber and have your entire system assessed, including camera inspection. Then pay appropriately to have the root cause addressed.


wiring a ceiling fan with 2 wires and a ceiling having 3

The ceiling wiring of red, black, white, and gnd allows separate control of a ceiling fan and a light with ordinary wall switches. One wall switch controls the black (switched hot) and a separate wall switch controls the red (switched hot). The W is a neutral for both and is not switched. If your fan wiring has only a black, a white, and a ground, then cap off (electrical tape or a wire nut) one of the two switched hots (usu you'd cap the red) and connect the black house wire to the black wire of the fan, and the white house wire to the white of the fan.

The wiring of most fans is a black for the fan, a different color, blue, for the light, and white is a neutral common to both the fan and the light. There should also be either a ground wire or a ground contact screw which is to be connected to the gnd of the house wiring.

It is conceivable that in some newer fans the wiring allows separate control of a fan and a light using only one switched hot wire. And, of course, if the fan had a built in remote receiver (which I have yet to see) the fan and light could be controlled separately with only one hot, and no wall switch. I installed some of the new Hunter fans with remote receiver not built in, and those had black and blue (IIRC) wires for the fan and the light, respectively. A single hot (which could be switched or not) goes to the receiver. Buttons on the remote transmitter switch the fan and light separately.

Decades ago I installed some old Hunter fans without wall switches and we use the pull chains. I recently installed some new type Hunter fans without wall switches but with remotes. I think that the wall switches are useful and I wish I had them, but it is extra work to put in wall switches.


For increasing shower pressure, Mixer or thermostatic valve?

Neither of those should have a noticeable impact on water pressure, that's up to your bladder tank, or the line pressure from the utility.

You may consider using a more efficient showerhead, which typically reduce flow, but increase pressure. Unless you're trying to fill buckets in your shower, this will probably be your best bet.


I recommend that you first get to work with a spade or shovel and remove a lot of the soil in that area so you have room to work and better access to more of the piping that is shown.
THEN, shut off the water at the street meter and find a suitable place to cut out the old pipe and valve and replace with new material.
Then put a valve box around the repair instead of putting the soil back in the hole.


Location of manufacturer name on bifold doors

If it's identified, it's likely to be on the top or bottom, or on the outer edges (that face in toward the closet when the door is open). It's possible that there would be a sticker or stamp of some sort that would be visible on the inside of the closet.
You may need to clear out some closet space and close yourself in with a flashlight to find it.
Well, it seems this isn't a closet (the pics weren't there when I first wrote the answer). However, the labeling is still most likely going to be on one of the door edges. It might be on the top or bottom, but that makes it really hard to find, so I'd guess that's not going to be it. It may not be on the "lead door" that is open in the pics, so opening the other door(s) may be necessary to find the sticker.


How can I improve my ventilation throughout my house?

For heating, the supply vents should be low on the walls, so that's a point in favor of winter performance.

You might be well served to have the system checked, possibly cleaned, and flow-balanced by a HVAC professional.

Note that a common misconception/error is that "opening up all vents to the maximum" is a good thing and reduces the workload of the fan - more air does move, but in point of fact, because more air is being moved, the fan is doing more work, and that takes more power - it is possible to overload the motor by "opening up" too many things fully (though this is usually controlled by less-accessible balancing dampers on the ducts, rather than louvers on the grilles in the rooms.)

The other major thing you can do before winter is to caulk, seal and insulate (or at least check the state of those things, and correct any deficiencies.)


Why does my kitchen faucet cut out intermittently?

I may be way off base here but have you tried removing the aerator on the faucet and letting it run on both hot and cold fully open (separately)? It's possible that the aerator could be clogging up and causing pressure buildup.

If you do not have copper pipes then it's possible that the buildup would be caused by rusting or oxidization in the pipes. Full pressure should knock it loose I think.


What is the most efficient way to dig a hole in a slope?

Rent a small excavator, perhaps including a person to operate it. A machine can do in hours what you would spend days (or weeks!) doing with two hands and one shovel.


The central bolt and washers in the correct order are used to hold the blade to the mounting plate.  The pins on the mounting plate, some of which may be broken in your case, fit into the off center holes on the blade so that the bolt need only keep the blade pinned to the plate and the pins support the torque.  Inspect carefully.  If you have missing or broken pins, your mounting plate or mower need to be repaired or replaced.


My front door frame doesn't support installing a storm door

install a brick mold on either side of the door frame and paint to the color of your choice. the brick mold must be flush at the top of the door jam to accept the drip edge from the storm door


water flow difference between 1/4 turn and multi turn shut off valve

It depends on the make and model of the valve. If you look at the size of the water passage (sometimes referred to as the "port") you will get an idea of the size of the restriction. I have found that cheap imported 1/4 turn stop valves frequently have a small port. Whereas higher quality valves (more $$) may have a larger port or may even be "full port".


Can multiple pieces of crown molding be stacked / combined?

Yes, if you apply a plywood backer that's about 3/4 the width of the assembly. Crown mold takes a lot of stress and strain during installation, from fitment, mitering, coping, and nailing. Those thin joints are likely to crack apart during the process.

I'd back it up with either 3/8" BC plywood, or 1/4" birch underlayment (Tecply).


Clamp DC current measurements with AmazonCommercial 600A AC/DC Clamp Meter

You're not using it correctly.
You can only have a single wire running though the clamp - in all the cases you show here you have 2 wires - even the 1st pics with the adapter plugged in to the outlet powering the clip-on LED lamp has 2 wires inside that single round cable.
If you use it to measure current from your automotive 12V battery you'll probably be fine since you're only likely to clamp the meter over either the positive or the negative wire at any one point in time.


When there is a power outage the wine cooler GFCI outlet stays off after power returns and need s to reset, what is the cause?

This whole thing is a hot mess.

That breaker MUST be changed to 15 amps immediately.

First, you have 14 AWG wire in the curcuit, yet the breaker is 20A.  That's not allowed.  Since the smallest wire in the circuit is 14 AWG, the breaker can be no larger than 15A.   The fact that it's downstream of a 12AWG section makes no difference at all.  The GFCI does not provide overcurrent protection to the downstream 14AWG.  The only way this would be legal is if you added fuse protection somehow.

Daisy-chaining GFCI's is pointless

At best, it causes weird interactions, such as your situation where the GFCI trips after power failures.  (Mind you, this also may be a downstream device ground faulting on startup or power loss).

At worst, you are leaving another circuit unprotected which you could protect, if you would make better use of your 2 GFCIs.  Move the downstream GFCI somewhere useful.

Refrigerators with grounds should not have GFCIs

For this reason.  A GFCI trip knocks out the fridge, someone finds it tripped and resets it unaware that it shut off the fridge so he does not Mention it to the cook.  Fridge cools back down, cook arrives and discovers cold food in fridge as expected, is unaware it's spoiled, serves it, sick family.

Power failures can already cause this, but this GFCI trip problem turns short outages into long ones.

Fire your electrician

This whole setup is awful.  It was carelessly put together by throwing random parts together without concept nor care for the rules and best practices.

Since you seem smart enough to describe what's there with impressive precision, it may fall on you to school up and put this house right.  Hit a library or home improvement store's book section, find a book that speaks to you (feels accessible) and devour it eagerly... want to learn much more than is strictly required for the job at hand, so you know what you're seeing when you see the unexpected.

I have to say, taking broken wiring and making it tight and right, is a lot of fun and a cheap hobby to boot.

More on the refrigerator-GFCI issue

The "no GFCI on refrigerators" advice has caused some interest.  GFCI treatment is different in the US than in Europe, and I'm not calling Europeans wrong for having whole-house RCD (GFCI).  That is driven by different sensibilities: Europe is interested in protecting older homes from many faults including electrocution, and the whole-house units have a gentler detection threshold so they don't have nearly as many nuisance trips (also adequate, but not as jumpy, at stopping fatal electrocutions.)

America is motivated (as always) by cost, but also by an American nightmare of pool, lake and tub electrocutions, where smaller current barely stuns a person, and they drown.  As such, our thresholds are so low that nuisance trips happen a lot.  And that's fine on most circuits where you just reset it.

A grounded, metal-outside, plastic-inside, HV electrical gear at the bottom, refrigerator is vanishingly unlikely to fail in a way where a GFCI would protect a human.  And so the nuisance trips are bad news.

Issues only arise in two places: if the refrigerator is ungrounded (want that GFCI), or the refrigerator outlet is a duplex outlet (2 sockets) and in a location where a consumer might plug in other kitchen appliances which ought to be GFCI protected.   In that case, the duplex should be replaced by a simplex to stop that from happening, or by moving the receptacle.

NEC specifically allows refrigerators to be non-GFCI-protected.  It even swerves way out of its way to specifically allow non-GFCI fridges and freezers in locations where everything else needs GFCI, such as garages and unfinished basements.  Again, a grounded refrigerator is simply not going to present a situation where GFCI would help.

Code allows you to put GFCI protection on a fridge, if you really want to.  But since many newly made fridges state flat-out in their instructions "Do not use GFCI protection"... Oh, hold on.   Yes, if you disregard those instructions, you are using an electrical product contrary to its labeling -- which is, in fact, a violation of the electrical code.  Sorry.

Also, regarding the "cook oughta know it's spoiled" argument.  Very often, at least here in America, the "cook" simply grabs prepared food out of the fridge and hands it unexamined, untested to another human unable to raid the fridge themselves, owing to youth, age, or infirmity. These are the very folks most vulnerable to fatal consequences from food poisoning, and least able to detect or successfully signal an unusual problem.


What would cause a hardwired smoke alarm to give one short beep when appliances are turned on?

The detector beeps because the momentary drop in voltage (or aberration in waveform) at the detector is sufficient for the detector to pick up, perhaps interpreting drop/aberration as a sign that it is about to lose power.

Might be a:

hardware/software bug in the device
feature for letting the owner know that the detector is functioning properly
feature that warns of a low battery (the battery that powers the detector during black outs, etc ...)
feature to indicate that the detector's service life or warranty has ended
sign that the circuit is excessively overloaded
sign that the detectors are wired improperly


What should I do about a huge gap under the drywall and baseboard when installing luxury vinyl tile?

Take the baseboard off and install your floor.  Cut your vinyl tile even with the sheetrock, less 1/4 inch -- this will allow space for you to lift your tile and lock it in place; after you have installed your floor, you can reinstall your baseboard to sit flush to the floor, leaving a finished look. The 1/2 inch thickness of the sheetrock will give you plenty of expansion  room. There is very little expansion  in vinyl. Trust me, I spent 29 years installing flooring.


A sump pump is used to expel excess water that would otherwise flood your basement. It is seated in a well (sump) lower than the finished floor so that it can begin removing ground water before it reaches the floor. It usually has a ball float attached to a switch so that as the water level rises so does the float. The float activates the switch, at the set level, and the pump motor starts pumping. The water is normally lead to the exterior through an window by a corrugated (flexible) hose which is connected to the pump by a hose clamp. The water should be allowed to drain on the low side of the building so that it will not return. From what can be seen in your photo the wooden structure is what appears to be (I'm guessing) a brace or a stabilizer for the pump when it is running. Probably to keep it upright. I can see the white ball float in the well that connects by a rod to the switch. You may want to install a dedicated receptacle (GFCI) close to the pump or use a heavy extension cord to power it.


The method shown in the This Old Hose picture fairly involved, you're basically letting a flat area into the siding, then letting an electrical box into that flat.  It has to be done just right, especially if it's added on after the siding is finished.  It allows you to use matching cedar or other aesthetically pleasing material for the flat.

The Arlington box is simple and easy to use, it installs without really disturbing the siding, less chance for a mistake or failure that will cause a leak, and fully code compliant when installed properly.  I don't think you could call it inferior in any way.


How can I install an exterior porch light where there is no junction box?

At the hardware store, ask for an "old work" box, sometimes also called a "cut-in box", they are made to be added to existing walls / ceilings and have little clips on the side that allow you to anchor them into the hole. You will need to make the proper size hole as well, typically with what's called a "keyhole saw" if you are OK with a manual operation, otherwise you would use a "reciprocating saw" or now, a "roto-zip" saw. If you don't have one, you can often rent them.


What are the pros/cons of Ondura for roofing?

As a shingle replacement, the main attraction seems to be the distinctive appearance of the product.

Since they define lifetime as "as long as you own the structure", the warranty could be less than the standard 20 year of shingles ... something to think about.

Most of the other benefits that I've read about are marketing... if this product is being compared to a metal roof, it certainly has some more interesting points.

Some of the stuff they try to sell it on, isn't really that relevant... such as:

Can be applied over a shingle roof ... so can new shingles.
Only to 2 layers though ... if you have 3 layers up there already then the benefit of not stripping the roof disappears.
Generally less expensive than high grade shingles ... fair enough, if you're considering high grade in the first place.
Easy to install ... so are shingles really ... the hardest part of roofing is generally getting on, and staying on the roof.

I think for the residential market, especially if you will have to strip the roof anyway, that the real selling point has to be the appearance the product will give your roof... if you love the installed look (and I agree, it can look very sharp) then it's probably not a bad idea.


concrete ceiling anchor: how much weight can it support?

It would be very difficult to say without knowing the exact company and part number. I found reference to something that might be similar here:

https://www.ccinetwork.com/p-39-38-sanko-shorty-drop-in-anchor-box-of-100.aspx

The info sheet says 2,200 to 5,500 pounds, but again, I wouldn't mount anything expensive or dangerous in them without a lot of stress testing. It would probably be worth bringing in a contractor to take a look and give you some kind of idea.

Drop ceilings don't weigh that much and it sounds like the weight was distributed over a lot of these anchors so that would suggest to me that they are not designed for heavy loads.


What is the practical difference between cement board and greenboard?

Greenboard is water resistant, but should not be used in areas that are going to stay damp, such as tub surrounds.

Once water gets into it (especially if it's not sealed correctly, and there's not the requisite gap between the tub and the wallboard), it will slowly deteriorate and/or mold -- it's water resistant, not water proof.

Yes, cement board is a pain to work with, it's better than having to tear out the whole wall because something was off in the installation of the greenboard.

...

All that being said, I believe I've seen some home improvement shows that used greenboard and then waterproof membrane over everything to add an extra layer of water protection when they were doing a shower install (tiling the walls and floor; and there was no tub they were joining up to).

...

You might also want to check with your local government -- it's possible that there might be codes that dictate what you're allowed (or required) to use in shower/tub areas.


Unfortunately if it was glued properly and has fully dried it may be almost impossible to get the tread up. Wood glue is extremely strong (it can actually be even stronger than the bond between the wood fibers).

I don't know what to suggest other than going at it with a demo pry bar. If you are able to get most of it up you can clean up the plywood with a chisel and/or a belt sander.


What type of security sensors should be used in a three bedroom house?

Alarms like the SimpliSafe support "away" mode and "home" mode. In home mode the motion sensors are inactive.  The need for window sensors has a lot to do with how hard it is to reach the window from outside.


Hanging picture on a very hard concrete wall

Try using some 3M Command strips. For hooks, you can use something like these (it uses the same adhesive. I have hung pictures larger than 22 inches with the command strips and hang my (very large) on the 3M command hooks every day. These are available at Target, Walmart and most similar retail outlets.

These come off the walls easily if/when you move and instead of leaving behind a bunch of large holes, they leave the walls clean which will help you get any security deposit back. It sounds like these will be convenient in your case too. The hooks come in a variety of colors including white, clear and brushed nickel.


Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. Such opening shall open directly into a public street, public alley, yard or court.
IRC R310.1

Egress must be available through a window to the outdoors, such that an adult can be reasonably expected to pass through to escape or to provide rescue. Down a hall, up some stairs, and through a garage or other part of the structure doesn't meet that requirement under most applicable codes, nor is it the kind of "escape route" you'd really want for your loved ones.


As the good commenters mentioned you cannot bury the junction box, it must remain accessible.  A hinged bench seat sounds like a great workaround.  That space under the bench could be considered part of habitable space though, so the cable would need to be protected in a raceway or conduit.  It would be acceptable to build a short raceway out of 2x4s.
But if you're going to have a hinged bench anyway, would it be so bad to just leave the receptacles as-is, and when you need them open the bench?  You could leave a little notch in the back of the bench so you could close it after plugging in the vacuum or whatever you'll be plugging in. Or run a power strip out of it.
[EDIT: A cable coming out the blue box and into the void behind the wall could route into a raceway that terminates into the same wall void, adjacent to the blank cover.  The reason you cannot have a cable run out of a hole in the blank cover itself is that would be unprotected.  Protecting that cable coming out the coverplate makes the junction box inaccessible.  What you could do instead is use an extension box that you could screw conduit into:   The box extension comes with some plugs to plug one of the holes, and the other hole would be your plastic or metal threaded conduit terminal adapter (must connected ground to it if its metal).]


Is this an appropriate way to add a single-pole switch (without a gang box) to a circuit with an existing single-pole switch?

Not only is it possible, but you seem to have it figured out already and even have a nifty wiring diagram to follow to accomplish it.

Good luck with your project!


You could, but it strikes me as a bad idea for a few reasons.  First, you'll have to replace it every year (or at least every 2-3 years).  Second, you'll get much better traction on gravel, especially when wet or snowy.  Finally, mulch is much more likely to wash out in the rain, especially if it's only a shallow layer.


Water heater flush yielded almost no sediment

In addition to the answers above, I have backflushed mine by hooking up a washing machine hose (double female) and turning the water on and off.  I am on a well and I have a good filter system, so I rarely have much-unsuspended junk in my water.  Home Depot has a scope (Ryobi?) that allows you to look into the water tank through the lower element hole.  It has many uses, like you can do your own colonoscopy!  Lol!


Do all sliding glass patio doors come pre-assembled in one piece?

A swinging door would be very convenient in this case since you can very easily find a thick door, seal any gaps and install sound insulation. However, if you really won't be able to install a swinging door you might find this helpful:

Door:

You could install a soundproofing sliding door, with roughly the same money. I suggest installing above the door entry a slider. Now you can find a really cheap wooden sliding door that fits around the turn. You don't need to go for a glass door, it is more expensive and will be more difficult to soundproof. A swinging door will do just as fine if you tweak it and add some rollers on top of it. This is what requires the most effort because you need to be very precise with the measurements, in order to leave as small gaps as possible. (In fact, we did the same on a door we couldn't replace because it was too old, and we weren't able to find doors with those dimensions).

Soundproofing:

If the door is really cheap, then it is also probably hollow and that won't block the sound. You can install soundproofing material of your choice (you can find really good deals for old foam mattresses which do the job) on the side of the door that is always shown whether it is open or closed. Lastly, however good the measurements are, there will always be gaps on the sides. To eliminate this, you can glue some sort of soundproofing strips on the 2 walls on the side, the ledge above and on the bottom part of the door, so that they are a tight fit for the door.

I hope this helps!


Not from what I've seen. From the dozen of so slate roofs I've seen and had, they were all applied directly to flat tight seamed planking. Typically, only wood or other types of roofing that aren't waterproof and need to dry-out have a furring-strip or stepped off underlayment.

You'll just want to replace any rotted areas with new planking (best) or thickness matching plywood (i.e. 3/4" or 2-layers of 1/2"). Tar paper would go on top of that on a problem-free roof. If the eave decking is all rotted and therefore has been leaking, then you'll want Ice and Water underlayment over the eaves.


Yes, just replace the wires. Even if you reverse the connections, the light will work. For safety's sake, make every effort to connect the wires properly. The silver screw should be connected to the neutral house wiring, white in US and Canada and blue or black nearly everywhere else. Try to confirm the silver screw connects to the outer metal sheath of the socket, the part with the threads. The yellow colored screw connects to the switched power of the house wiring and the center contact in the socket. The switched power house wire color is usually black or red in US and Canada and brown or some other color everywhere else. Just do not attempt to connect any wire with green (may be striped with yellow) or no insulation to either of these screws. Green or bare is for equipment grounding purposes and should be bonded to any metal components that do not carry current.

Strip the insulation from the wire ends no longer than necessary. Try to arrange the wire under the screw head to wrap almost full circle with no overlap. Wrap it in the direction of tightening the screw so the wrap is drawn tighter when tightening the screw. This only applies to binding post screws. If there is a separate hole for the wire and the screw acts like a set screw, then disregard this part. Replicate the connection methods used previously in the junction box, typically either wire nuts or set screw strips.

But please - whatever you do, turn the power off first!


How do I cover up small holes in plaster ceiling?

Half a centimeter? In that case, spackle, sand, and paint. They make color changing spackle (pink to white) so you know when it's dry. Apply with a flat edge (e.g. a putty knife). Don't oversand, just enough to knock any rough edges off. And since the paint has an orange peel look, use a small roller for the touch-up.


Filling big horizontal gaps in bathroom tile

Grey, sanded. 'black' is easy: #60 charcoal.

I'd grout it first though. I've had luck with a grout line that wide, and it was a wood-to-tile threshold nonetheless. A 1/2"-plus deep and ~2" wide? I'd go for it; that will seal the gap better too. Then base and quarter round.

I'm an all-or-nothing type of guy, but that's way too much all to get excited about what will end up being a slightly too wide grout line along the trim, of an otherwise serviceable tile job. - When you gut the bathroom though....


What are the code regulations for stairs off an exterior french door?

If the door can be opened, it must have a landing on the outside, minimally 36"X36", but in your case, it must be the width of the doors X 36" deep from the house. You can put a guard rail in front of the inactive one, then have a smaller landing. That will look a little odd in my opinion though.


Running NM-B in PVC SCH 40 Conduit from Outdoor Breaker Panel

TLDR: Putting many wires in a conduit requires you vastly oversize the wire.  Better to use many conduits, limiting each to four 14-12 AWG circuits or three 10AWG circuits.

Wire count de-rate

In one box, you propose twelve 12/2 cables in a single conduit.  That is 24 conductors (grounds don't count).  Because you have so many, NEC rule 310.15(B)3 requires you de-rate the conductors at 45% (per table 310.15B3A)

and per whatever type of cable you are in fact using on table 310.15B16:

For instance if  you aim to run 20A, and use THWN-2 or USE-2, 10 AWG wire is 40A x 45% = 18A -- not enough, you must go to 8 AWG wire.

If you're asking "why haven't I heard of this before", it's because the way the numbers work out on 310.15B, the de-rate rules generally don't bother 15-20A circuits with 9 or fewer conductors.  It may be a factor for 30A circuits or larger.  Grounds are not conductors, and neutrals are not counted in 120/240V or MWBC circuits, since they only carry imbalance current.  So any circuit in single-phase or split-phase tends to count as 2 conductors, allowing 4 circuits.

Conduit fill

Now that these wires are getting burly, you'll need to re-visit the normal conduit fill calculations appropriate to the type of cable you use (jacketed cable like USE-2 takes a lot more space than single wire THWN-2).

Wet location

Since your boxes are outdoors, everything needs to be listed for wet locations.  You cannot use NM cable. You would need cable listed for outdoor use, e.g. USE-2.  If you use UF or USE cable, go back to 310.15B16 because there's an additional derate, for instance necessitating 6 AWG if using UF.

Transition to smaller wire

Since you can't stick 8 AWG cable on a receptacle terminal, you will need to transition to 12 AWG wire somewhere.  It could happen in the receptacle box, but it'll take a lot less overall wire wrestling if you do it before that.  However this must be a place where you've split to less than 4 circuits per conduit, bundle, or hole.  Also, it must be inside an electrical box which remains accessible.  You can't put an electrical box anywhere that disassembly of the building is required to access it.  Behind a little door is fine; a panel screwed down is not.

Better way to do it

The best way to avoid that derating is numerous conduits, so you are not exceeding the nine practical limit for #12 and #14, and the six practical limit for #10.  For instance, five conduits will barely get you by: Two conduits for the four 10/3 and two 12/3 - and three more for the twelve 12/2. You will be full-up at that point, and would need to run more conduit to add anything.  I would consider 8 conduits.  Since you're already doing six, doing two more is no trouble.  You're already there, have all the right tools and supplies, and by #5 you're getting pretty good at it.

Keep in mind conduits must have a certain spacing in order to count as separate conduits. That is for air circulation, as the name of the game is to cool the wires and conduit.


what would be the highest temp limit switch i can run on a colman 3800a816 furnace

NO.
You should only replace the high limit switch with an identical replacement. If the limit is opening, there's a problem that needs to be addressed.  Figure out why the furnace is overheating, and fix that problem.
Dirty filters, or restricted air flow, are the most common problems.


Purpose of septic vents both in the yard and also through the roof?

These are different things.  The vent stack inside the house is there to prevent sewer gas from pushing back into the traps (as well as providing overall pressure relief).  The vent in the yard is there to handle gas generated inside the septic tank.  Whether that is required by local code, or as part of your specific design, or just because some people think it lengthens the tank and leaching field's life expectancy, I cannot say for sure. I have lived in towns where some people have added a tank vent, others have not, and there's no apparent rhyme or reason.


Can I use sliding barn door hardware on a hollow panel door?

Depending on the exact sliding hardware you are using, it should be possible. Hollow core doors usually have a solid wood frame along the edges, though how far into the core this frame extends may vary.

If you are using hardware like that shown below, you would need to make sure that the brackets attached to the wheels are anchored into the solid wood frame at the edges of the door.


How do I derate for 2 dryer circuits in one conduit?

Your neutrals don't count
NEC 310.15(B)(5)(a) governs this situation:

(5) Neutral Conductor.
(a) A neutral conductor that carries only the unbalanced
current from other conductors of the same circuit shall not be
required to be counted when applying the provisions of
310.15(B)(3)(a).

You'll be fine with the 10AWG
This brings you down to 4 current carrying wires, so you will be using an 80% derate off the 90°C column in the ampacity table as you mention in your question.  10AWG copper can carry 40A at 90°C, and 80% of 40A is 32A, which is greater than the 30A you're asking it to carry (and the 30A maximum it's allowed to carry by 240.4(D) small conductor rules), so you'll be fine.
Conduit fill will be fine too
You are using 14mm2 per 10AWG wire, and 6 wires, so 84mm2 in total.  This is well below the 137mm2 usable fill in a 3/4" EMT, so you're fine on that front as well.
And continuous loads aren't a problem either.
220.54 allows one to use a 5kVA assumed load for dryers that do not have a larger nameplate load rating -- given that 24A at 240V is 5.76kVA, you should be fine on the continuous-load-derate front for most clothes dryers.


Effervescence of concrete of your type is a reaction of the added concrete.  It is generally found in acidic compounds.  I recommend using some ammonia over the entire concrete surface with no added water.  Use a mask please!  The ammonia will neutralize the acid and in many cases solve the issues.  I see this on my acid stain projects and that Is how we mitigate it.  Now if the ammonia comes in contact with any metal surface it will cause rust so avoid electrical and metal surface...AND WEAR A MASK!


Can I close the garage vent on my furnace?

It's not necessary, they probably just put it in because it was easy to do and gives you the option of heating the garage if you want.

I would keep the vent closed, and if you want an even better seal, the make magnetic pads that you can put over the vent as well


Is it really such a terrible idea to have original pine floorboards in a bathroom?

If the wood is in good condition and you refinish it properly I see no reason not to keep that flooring. Most oil based flooring vanishes will work fine but if you want to get really serious have a professional flooring company come in and finish it with an aluminum oxide based finished or one of the catalyzed varnishes.


Can you add another stove to an existing circuit?

Nope

NEC 210.23(C) limits 40A and 50A multioutlet branch circuits in dwelling units to powering fastened in place (i.e. built-in) cooking appliances, not freestanding ones.  (A regular range circuit only has a single outlet, so it is governed by NEC 210.22 instead.)

Your 40A branch circuit could power either range, though, as a 13kW nameplate range comes out as 8.4kW of demand-factored load when you apply Table 220.55, note 1 to it, and NEC 422.10(A), paragraph 4 expressly permits the table 220.55 branch factors to be applied to household cooking appliance circuits.


Why does my shower's water temperature fluctuate several times per minute?

The small tank is a thermal expansion tank, there should be two of them. You must have a check valve if you have expansion tanks. If you have two matching water heaters, they should have been plumbed in parallel and not in series. Also, the piping associated with each heater needs to be the same length or it will cause one heater to do more work than the other. This could possibly cause a fluctuation in the water temperature. Also, make sure that both heaters are set to the same output temperature. Everything must be "balanced" in a parallel setup. Here is a diagram of what two water heaters in parallel should look like:

Here is a diagram of two heaters connected in series:

Images are from a Rheem/Ruud technical service department pdf I have on file.


Can I use a water based undercoat between solvent-based primer and top coat?

I would not mix types of paint like that.
Most paint systems I have worked with are designed so that the successive coats work together. Rust Oleum etc


We live in a condo with a shared wall. When the neighbor turn on their water it's loud. What can be done about this

Small diameter pipes can be noisy, but fitting larger pipes while the « solution » now can be difficult and expensive.
Usually happens when a small pipe feed an area which then has a change of use and the water demand increases which increases the speed in the small pipe.
Usually on domestic pipes the speed should be kept below 2 m/s while hydraulic systems can be up to 7m/s.


Will the current drywall look better after I texture it?

That's not exactly a quality finish - by texturing it you're just hiding a bad job.
If time permits, I'd rip off the old tape and most of that plaster/mud, and re-finish this wall in the same way you've done the other new walls.  That way your texturing has the same base to sit on, and more likely to age the same way as the new walls.


Do I need to remove mould from plywood before treating?

Yes, you should remove the mold. It seeps into the wood and would prevent your sealers from doing their job to the fullest. Bleach is good for surface mold but it doesn't penetrate the surface. I've used white vinegar, one cup to 3 quarts water. Scrub the mixture on the wood and then spray off with water. Let the wood totally dry and follow the directions for your preservative. Good luck and stay safe out there.


I wouldn't be bolting the supports over the drywall. You will get movement back and forth from the bag and that movement will start to compact the drywall and eventually loosed the supports.

Think about installing a 4x4 between two joists with joist hangers. Then drill a hole through the 4x4 and install a 1/2" eye bolt and hold it in place with nuts and washers.


Should I repair floor joists that have cracks or holes?

Nail holes in a joist wouldn't concern me unless it affected a significant proportion of the joist. You can safely drill a hole 1/3 of the width of the joist in the middle for running wiring.

Cracking or sagging that is allowing the home to go out of level/plumb is a concern. It's best to get a structural engineer to evaluate this problem. The standard solution is to sister a second joist next to the failing one, and possibly add some support columns to a footing in the floor. You would first remove any blocking that's interfering with the new joist, jack up any low points on the old joist until things are level, install the new joist so each end is supported, glue and bolt the new joist to the original joist, install new blocking, and remove the jacks.


HO fluorescents not working after switching with power on

Depending on the ballast type the lamps need to go through a “start cycle”.
Live swap is not the best thing for a ballast and although not usually dangerous it’s never a good idea to change out lamps live.
What is the start cycle, when a ballast is first fired the voltage spikes depending on the type well over 300v until the gas in the tube ionizes and starts to glow, at this point the voltage is quickly reduced to control the current this is why you need to use the correct lamp type for the ballast, wrong lamp type and the lamp life is drastically reduced or the light output is reduced.
Many times the lamps will light on install on mag ballast but solid state need to go through the cycle and may have turned that lamp channel off because of the bad lamp or open socket. The next power bump the ballast goes through the start cycle sees a good lamp and it works.
With electronic ballast I pull the power to that fixture prior to relamping why most ballast I have are electronic and the channel or lamp may be shut down, if not overheated Chanel’s need to cool before they will try a restart or strike.
If the lamps don’t light up I know the ballast is bad this is quite common with electronic ballast that have been trying to light a bad lamp for months.
Today I convert all my fluorescent lamps to LED and have been doing this for years. My opinion the universal led retrofit lamps are the best light color is up to you but if you want bright work area lighting go 5000k or higher light color 6500k at 1/2 the wattage of a fluorescent will appear 2x the amount of light. If in a area like a living room you want a lower color in most cases 3000k -4000k is usually preferred but you still get the same light feel fro 1/2 the wattage.


What should I keep in mind when extending downspouts?

45 degree bends make the pipe easier to snake out if it becomes clogged. This can definitely save you a headache in the future.

Some suggest using a catchbasin with a grate below each downspout rather than connecting the downspouts directly to the underground pipe. This gives one last chance to keep leaves and dirt out of the underground piping.

Slope is definitely important for proper drainage.

As far as distance from the foundation, if you choose to  use non-perforated pipe, I suppose you could run them closer to your foundation, but I'd avoid it if possible.


Order in size for fixture drains to enter the main stack

I'm not sure if your stack is coming off of the sink or the water closet. Does this help?


Should I dig a separate trench for CAT5e wire to shed?

Same trench is fine. Use conduit, you may want to upgrade it later without re-trenching. Keep some space between the conduits, vertically, horizontally, or both.
Interference between 60 Hz power and 100+MHz ethernet is wildly overestimated by numerous people. Ethernet encoding is designed to ignore noise, and ethernet cabling is deign to reject noise so it does not get picked up, and the "noise" of a powerline is very, very much slower than what goes on in ethernet.
Still, the better bet for "what goes in your conduit" is fiber optics, but that's mostly because it provides total electrical isolation for your network equipment at both ends. It also happens to be immune to any electrical noise along the way, but that's far less likely to be a practical problem than you imagine, while side effects of thunderstorms are far more likely to be a practical problem with a wired connection.
Whatever cable you place should be "wet-rated" - for whatever reason, direct burial cable seems to be the most common wet-rated variant seen in ethernet, but put it in a conduit anyway. Outdoor conduits are defined as (and usually are) wet locations.


Having some trouble with Sanding hardwood floors

It's hard to tell without pictures or exact model number, but based on your comment you've probably rented a buffing (finishing) floor sander not unlike this one. For very uneven floors you should have indeed started with a (flooring) belt (or drum) sander. Belt/drum sanders (flooring or otherwise) can remove a lot material quickly.

Even Home Despot's own video recommends you get a drum/betl sander for solid wood (as a start). The orbital sander they rent is for finishing. They say nothing about their random orbital, and I suspect it will work by itself, but slowly; you'll probably have to change discs 4-6 times (in each pass) for the entire surface you have to make steady progress. I can't tell from the pictures how uneven your slats are or how much extra time (and sanding discs) that might take.

Dealing with the height differences is a little tricky even with a drum/belt sander: you'll probably want to sand at 45 degrees initially so the sander never rests on a single slat (or entirely misses the adjacent one), then go with the grain for the subsequent passes. I'm guessing you can achieve the same effect as 45-degree drum sanding with a random orbital by hovering long enough in an area until it levels itself. YMMV.

A NYT article on the topic also has this interesting titbid:

  Some online sources recommended the U-Sand sander [which seems to be a random orbit sander with four discs -- my note], which theoretically eliminates the need for a drum sander and a buffer. The manager of my local rental agency tried to talk me out of it, saying seven out of 10 people trade it in for a more powerful drum sander.

And the reporter also had issues with the U-Sand: even after using it for four hours he couldn't get to all the "valleys" in his floor. So unless you have oodles of time at your disposal, a random orbit sander is probably not the best idea for a floor that's pretty uneven at the start.

Clarke has quite a bit to say about their multi-purpose random orbital  (which just as the U-Sand is intended to replace both the belt and edger) but what I read into that marketing (especially if you compare to what they say about their drum and edger) is that it's a gentle machine wiht low risk of wrecking floors in the hands of the untrained, but in the subtext that also says it's rather slow in removing material or making progress with uneven floors. The same user experience with respect to dips/valleys has been reported for the Clarke random orbital as well.


Cold Water Line frozen, should I leave cold water faucet open?

It makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to the freezing condition if you leave the faucet open or not.

If a faucet is left open BEFORE it freezes, it can prevent freezing because running water does not freeze.

The only way to thaw it is to find the area that is frozen and heat it with a warming strip or a hair dryer or a propane torch or whatever. Try not to start a fire. If you use a hair dryer it can take HOURS to thaw a water line, even if it is blowing at high right at the frozen spot. Also, a hair dryer will only work if the line is frozen in one specific spot. If, say, 3 feet or 4 feet of piping are frozen, there is no way a hair dryer will do anything (at least in a day or two).


What is this red powder under my carpets?

I am just viewing a picture but I have pulled up carpet pads on concrete in many a house and it looks like caulked adhesive used to secure the pads to concrete.  Sometimes the colors in the pads bleed into the adhesive (the spots in my house were green) and things definitely break down or turn to powder after a while.  You should be able to scrape it up - wear some gloves and a mask if you are worried.  I will say I had way more green powder on my floor than that.


240v pool timer with 120v outlet, proper usage?

That is a 120v 15 amp receptacle. I hope you have a neutral feed to the pool or a transformer that is creating the 120v.
If this has been installed in the last 20 years, it should have a proper neutral and should be safe to use.
If it is an older system that had an added 120v circuit, then there may be some safety risks because the neutral for the light might be going back on the ground for the pool.
When skin is wet, the resistance of the skin is reduced and shocks affect us at lower voltages, this combined with muscle convulsions can cause drowning at low levels, so I always like to know the system prior to saying it is safe.
If your pool has a 4 wire feed and everything is properly wired and grounded, then it should be fine to plug in to that receptacle with a 120v device.


Where to attach the "C" wire to my furnace?

It's labeled in the diagram.

You should see a cable that leads to the A/C compressor,which contains 2 wires. One will be connected to the Y wire from the thermostat, the other is connected to the C wire.  You didn't include the make and model of the furnace, so I'm not sure if there's a terminal block or if the terminals are labeled.

You'll want to make sure the transformer can supply the additional load of the thermostat, or you'll burn out the transformer. It's usually not a problem, but it's something to be aware of.

For more information, please see this answer.


Well if you are asking if it can be done the answer is yes. To have the best chance of success move  ~1-1/2 inch away from the wall left or right so you don’t hit a rafter or joist and close to the exterior siding. When I do this I drill at an angle , it hits the top plate the way I drill but makes the pull easier and not as sharp of a bend on the cable coming out and following the wall to soffit can look like fat calking after painted if trying to hide the cable.


That old 3-prong receptacle is dangerous.  Upgrade to a 4-prong receptacle, by adding a ground wire.

That dangerous socket

The old 3-prong NEMA 10 receptacle doesn't have a ground wire.  It bootlegs ground using the neutral pin - which is a terrible idea because any problem with the neutral wire will energize the chassis of your range.  Appliance makers lobbied NFPA to allow this for "grandfathered" work, on the rationalization that these plugs are rarely disturbed.

The new 4-prong NEMA 14 receptacle includes a proper ground wire.  If neutral fails, the oven light simply goes out.  If neutral and ground fail, the chassis still will not be energized.  Much safer.

Retrofit a ground

The NEC rules allow you to retrofit a ground wire separately, any way you can.  It does not need to follow the same route as the power cables.  It does need to go back to the the same breaker box, however.

You don't need to go all the way to the breaker box if you can reach another circuit which has a ground wire that's thick enough (and is also served out of that same box). Your minimum ground wire size is 10 AWG, and a water heater, dryer or built-in A/C will have that if it has a ground.  Metal conduit is also a valid grounding path (make sure it isn't corroded, damaged or loosened).  If the wiring is already in metal conduit, you're done :)

The cheapest way to buy 10 AWG ground wire is to actually buy 8 AWG bare copper wire, readily available at most hardware stores.

After that, you buy a matching NEMA 14 receptacle (probably 14-50) and connect

The two hots to the two hots obviously.
The grandfathered neutral to neutral (it may be bare; if so, wrap it with electrical tape so it doesn't contact the ground wire; bonus points for style if you use white electrical tape).
The proper ground wire to the ground terminal.  You don't want it touching neutral because that would defeat the safety benefit.

Check the range to make sure it's jumpered correctly for 4-wire and not 3-wire, plug it in, turn the breaker back on and enjoy!

(by the way, once you have retrofit the ground wire, you can also use that to ground other ungrounded circuits served out of that same panel.)


Should switches in a kitchen area have GFCI protection?

As Paul points out, there are no requirements in the National Electrical Code (NEC) for Ground Fault Circuit Interruption (GFCI) protection on switches.  If you understand the purpose of GFCI devices, and think about the differences between switches and other electrical devices you'll see why.
What is a ground fault?
In a normally functioning 120V single phase system, current flows out to devices on an ungrounded (hot) conductor (wire).  The current does some work, and then flows to ground through the grounded (neutral) conductor.  If for any reason (short, improperly functioning device, etc.) some or all of the current finds a lower resistance path to ground, a ground fault exists.
Why is ground fault protection needed?
Electricity flows from source to ground, and will always take the path of least resistance.  In the case of your house, we always want the electricity to flow to the grounding electrode at the service entrance.
Lets say your refrigerator has developed a ground fault.  In modern electrical systems, the chassis of the refrigerator will be bonded to the equipment grounding conductor, which in turn is connected all the way back to the systems grounding electrode (or should be). This gives the wayward electricity a safe, low resistance path back to ground.  Everything seems fine and dandy. The electricity is flowing into the refrigerator , through its case, down the equipment grounding conductor, and safely to ground.
Along comes somebody who wants some food. Unaware there's anything wrong, they reach out and touch the refrigerator .  The electricity now flows into the refrigerator , and through its case. This time though, instead of flowing to the equipment grounding conductor. It takes a lower resistance path, right through the person that touched the refrigerator and into the ground. ZAP!
If there was a GFCI device properly installed, the hungry person might still be alive.
How does a GFCI device work?
Ground fault circuit interrupters work by making sure that all the current that passes through on the ungrounded (hot) conductor, returns through the grounded (neutral) conductor.  If the GFCI detects a difference as small as 0.05-0.06A, it will open the circuit and prevent the flow of electricity.  These devices are designed to work fairly quickly, usually fast enough to prevent a fatal dose of electricity (though not always fast enough to prevent minor injury).
Great, but why don't I need this protection on switches?
Cord and plug devices (refrigerators, radios, hair dryers, toasters, etc.) allow you to extend the electrical system, hold it in your hand, and may put you at risk of becoming part of it.  A receptacle is an open port to electricity, which allows anything to be connected to it.  Devices can break, wear out, and are not always properly built/designed.  Because of this, there is no way to guarantee every device will be safe.
In the case of a switch, which is designed to meet certain standards, and cannot be installed/sold if it does not meet these standards.  It's far less likely; even if the device develops a fault, that a user of the switch will be put in harms way.  Switches are designed and built; unless they are installed improperly, to mitigate the chances of users coming into contact with electrified parts.
tl;dr

Ground fault circuit interrupters prevent you from being killed in the event of a ground fault.
Receptacles offer a better chance of being exposed to ground faults.
Switches are designed to prevent you from being exposed to a ground fault, even if one exists.

Semi-related Information
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters
An important (or maybe just interesting) thing to pay attention to here, is the wording in the NEC.

NEC 2008
210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel.
(A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in (1) through (8)
shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
210.12 Arc-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection.
(B) Dwelling Units. All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit
family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens,
bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar
rooms or areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit
interrupter, combination-type, installed to provide protection of the
branch circuit.

Notice, GFCI protection is only required for receptacles. Whereas AFCI protection, is required for all outlets in the mentioned areas.  So while the light switch doesn't have to be GFCI protected, it does have to be AFCI protected.


Is there a sure way to know a PVC joint is glued right?

I'm not sure I completely understand what you mean by "twist."  You mention a 45 degree bend.  Is that the bend of the elbow?  Why was a "twist" required?

At any rate, if it is holding, it will probably be fine under static loads even if installation was not perfect.  However, a bad joint will typically only reveal itself under more extreme dynamic loads.  Pressure spikes typically occur due to air in the line or water hammer.  An acceptance test generally requires applying 150% of design pressure to the line and checking for leaks (that is, hyrdostatic water pressure, not air pressure....  applying compressed air to the line could be quite dangerous if anything fails).  I assume you have no way to do that.

So, the best you can hope for is that your installation was adequate and followed correct procedure.  At a minimum that would involve, deburring and beveling the pipe edge, applying sufficient amounts of cement to the pipe and fitting, ensuring the pipe is seated completely and uniformly in the fitting (fusion of the pipe and fitting typically only occurs right at the tightest portion of the fitting....  elsewhere, there is simply a mechanical bond that is weaker).


Do the house plans contain the info about the material?

Will depend on what your local building code requires.  Some jurisdictions will require that you hire an architect or have the plan engineered in order to meet building/renovation requirements.  Your best bet is to reach out to a building official in your area that can direct you to what your building plan will require.

Most plans you find on the internet are designed to utilize wood platform framing.  I haven't come across many 'canned' plan sites that are designed for ICF or or AAC blocks.  This is where you may need to reach out to a building designer  or architect that is familiar with those building materials.

If you're really ambitious, study the latest International Residential Code, and that can guide you on what you will need to provide on your construction documents.

Also, some building departments may not care the form or method the plan is developed in or on.  As long as they know what you're going to build, with what materials, dimensions, etc.


Light wiring is no different than outlet wiring in terms of capacity. The breaker should already be sized appropriately.
Could be that the switch and/or home run (source) wires come into that box, and that two pairs go out to the other light boxes. Some tracing or testing would be necessary.
If the source comes into the box, you're golden. You can connect the new outlet to that and leave the rest of the circuit as-is. If not, You'd probably need to find a way to make changes elsewhere in the circuit to isolate that box. You probably can't bring additional cabling into that box as it's very full already.


Are Florida, USA, roofing contractors required to have permission from everyone listed on the deed

I believe @brhans is right.  You don't need to have anyone on the deed of a house involved in the work of said house by any state law.  However some states may require some documentation for a contractor to possess a lien on the house.

For instance if your dad's roof started leaking and he needed to fix it ASAP, no one would require your mom's signature on it.  To take it a step further you could legally hire a company to give your mom and dad a present of a new roof (however they could tell company not to do work or sue you if it caused them financial harm.)

The contractor needing a lien may not be warranted.  Tell your dad to speak to the crew and work out a schedule of payment that they find acceptable.  For instance he could pay for materials and pay for 1/3 labor up front and then pay incrementally.  If it is a well trusted roofing company I would then pay 1/3 the first day they show up and then 1/3 upon completion - this could be held in an escrow account or some companies will accept credit card.


Install backsplash before upgrading countertops

Sure, but it leaves you open to a less perfect fit. Backsplashes have much more flexibility of position than a granite top, so the latter should really be installed first. You don't want anyone trying to cut tile after it's installed. That sounds like a risky proposition with respect to quality.

I'd prime and paint your drywall and wait.


Real simple.  2 of the fluorescent lights are on the 3-way switches.

Separate from that, 2 of the fluorescent lights are on the 2-way switch.

The reason is to give a "low-high" setting.

The wire going from the 3-way switch to the 2-way switch is always-hot supply power.  The other 3-way switch is the "remote".


The QNR type will fit but have the handle reversed.  You would choose the QN or QNR depending on how the panel will be oriented when you mount it.


How to make an uneven, damaged 'rustic' tile floor even for tile & parquet laying

Unless you are concerned about an asbestos material under the tile (such as old linoleum squares), I would remove any old material and start clean.  If you keep building on top of the old materials, you might need to rip all your doors down to make them fit with the new floor.  Conversely, you need to consider how high to make the new floor in relationship to the old floor.  Last, while you may still need floor leveler, a better bet is to install a nice new clean level underlayment board such as concrete board, durarock, hardibacker, or other tile board for tile or a nice clean 1/4" sheet of plywood and paper for hardwood.


Can I convert a 3-way switch that switches half duplex outlets into an outlet?

Yes, you can, and the general idea is:

If the power feed comes first to the switchbox you want to keep:

Convert your 3 + ground to 2 + ground by capping off the red wire with wire nuts at both ends.  (see Correct way to remove a red wire from a circuit)
Replace switch with outlet, wire up.
Replace remaining 3-way switch with a 2 way, and pigtail some new connections as such:

Bundled with feed black - Black from converted cable, black to hot outlet, pigtail to new two-way switch (This is 4 blacks - use the right size nut!)
Red to switched outlet to other terminal on switch.
All whites bundled. (3 wires)
All grounds to box grounding screw.

The major issue might be fitting everything into that one box.
As always, turn off the breaker before doing any work.


Spray bottle w/ vinegar solution...eventually makes spray bottle not work...why?

Vinegar is an acid. It's a mild acid, but it's an acid nonetheless. You might want to find a different brand of spray bottle that is chemical resistant... mine seem to keep working, but I buy them from a janitorial supply store. I know the one time I put a vinegar and water solution in one of my girlfriend's spray bottles, which were artsy and came from a beauty supply store, they suffered random gumming-ups and failures...


How to Repair Laminate Countertop Wear Near Sink

Find and examine an exposed edge on your laminate somewhere -- most easy to find is where the front edge abuts with a wood trim strip (in custom countertop designs) or where it wraps around the front of the countertop (more common with the manufactured type with integrated backsplash). You'll be able to see the dark color of the laminate substrate and also its thickness.

If the sink had completely worn through the laminate then you'd see not only particle board, but also a cross-section of the laminate subtrate. It would look similar to that edge examined earlier -- it would be kind of like looking at the layers in a sedimentary rock formation. But I don't see any depth or cut-away layers in your photo; instead it looks like surface discoloration caused by water deposits, food/dirt/dust, or even a little mold. (Molds can exhibit a rainbow of colors.)

Try detailed cleaning around the edge of the sink. Rub it with a cloth or a green abrasive/scouring pad. Scrub with a toothbrush or scrape gently with a razor blade, etc. (Your laminate looks like it has a strong surface texture to it so scraping may not work well.) You could try letting it soak a bit with a mild acid like vinegar before doing the mechanical cleaning.


both wires are white how can i determine the hot wire?

You need to pay attention to the comment by @Hari Ganti. The only way I know to make sure you are connecting the right wire to the right place with confidence. Would be to open up and inspect the connection point of the power supply. Then you could ring each wire with your ohmmeter, mark and install them correctly. But if you could get to your connection point, why wouldn't you install a manufacturer approved cord and avoid any complications?


Will a tarp over the deck allow me to paint the deck during a Seattle winter?

I have made temp tarp roofs over several work sites when building a deck in winter. (Vancouver, BC here, so similar winters).

You should use a new tarp, have a slope for drainage and make sure it is tight and secure.

If any leaks or drips get on the wood it takes longer to dry out in the winter (when it's wet out in general).

I have never painted a deck though, only stains.

The most critical reason for using a tarp roof was keeping plywood dry when we were doing a waterproof vinyl membrane. Most other times they weren't crucial and just for keeping work site relatively dry.


What is your house heat? If it's some sort of hot air furnace, you might be able to tap it?
Otherwise there are "construction heaters" you can rent which include indirect fire (no fumes) hot air units, with ducts and blowers. But probably more than you want to spend...
Thirdly, unless firstly, as it's simplest and least expensive and most portable:  insulated coveralls and rechargeable heated underwear (if needed. Decent polypropylene thermal underwear will get you a long ways without batteries, particularly with "major brand workwear" thermal coveralls on top.)


Depending on how closely you're going to try to match the original finish (or if close enough is close enough) you could use wood filler.  This product is basically saw dust and glue.  Most of them are stainable, so you could fuss with it to match your desk's finish.

This is an example, I am not affiliated in any way with any company in the link, just the first thing on google.


Looks like a J-type halogen bulb.

Compare with this: http://www.amazon.com/Type-120v-Halogen-Anyray-brand/dp/B00520MXKS


What to do with old connections when moving outlet to dedicated circuit?

Of the three options you mention, the first is fine; leave the wires in the box, spliced.

The second, no good at all. Splices must be in an accessible box.

Third, also fine. You can certainly blank up the existing box and run new.

I prefer a fourth option; Leave the existing receptacle alone and run a new circuit to a new box. WHY do you need the existing one removed?


How can I repair a pinhole leak in a washing machine drain hose?

For a short-term solution you can try self-amalgamating tape, it is specifically made to be water-resistant and it forms a good seal. But with a leak like that I'd only recommend it as a stopgap until you can notify the landlord or hire a plumber. A hose like that should not be inside a wall so i'd recommend replacing it with rigid PVC when you can.


Why is hot water coming out of the faucet but the shower is ice cold? (Diverter not on spout)

If you get warm water out of the spout and cold water out of the shower head, then I sounds like you've isolated the potential problem to the diverter (only other thing that comes to mind is some kind of water pressure based issue, but I can't think of where that would happen on the hot water side only since you have separate hot/cold knobs).

Since this is after the hot/cold knobs, you can probably fix this problem without even shutting off the water, just place something over the drain (don't want to lose a screw), disassemble the diverter, see if it's just an o-ring or dirt, and if not, replace the entire part (take the old one to the hardware store to find an exact match).


Attaching wiring hangars to an I-beam is simplicity itself.  You need these, which run about a buck each.

This clamps to the flange of the I-beam.  Note the 1/4”-20 holes, which let you attach whatever you need.


My guess is that this is a Clutch type screw. (First row, sixth column)