Safe/professional way to transport lumber with just a roof rack

Almost all of the Home Depots that I do business with have short term rental trucks available right in their parking lots for very reasonable rates. Call in and reserve one for a particular time. Drive to the Home Depot in your car and park it in the lot. Go inside and checkout the truck. Then drive it up and load all of your materials and head home with it to unload. Take back the truck, check in and head away in your own car.

This is a lot safer option than risking some accident resulting from wood items sliding or flying off the roof of your vehicle.


How do I attach a ledger board if I have no interior access?

DANGER DANGER DANGER....  As we speak, I am replacing an entire 5 foot knee wall 20 feet long, jacking the floor joists, new studs, mold remediation, new sills, new top plates, new insulation, floor joist sisters, a very expensive 6 foot slider is in jeopardy. This fix is gonna cost my customer over $3,000 minimum  Ants and rot everywhere, all the way to the concrete.  Why you ask?  The deck ledger was lag bolted to the the house through the vinyl siding!!!!   no flashing or Grace ice and water shield under the door or around the ledger, not to speak about invading the water tite integrity of the siding itself. Water seeped in the wall for the last 10 years.  everything in the wall was wet and mold was starting to show on the interior sheetrock. 24 inches is not high. Consider a plan where the deck is free standing and stands a 1/2 inch away from the building, and you will avoid all these potential problems. Seriously, if you don't know how to place a ledger and water proof it completely and then reinstall vinyl siding under the deck and adjacent to it etc., then seek a bit of professional advise or go to a self supporting deck.  simple cross bracing will make a very stable deck not attached to house.


This is a simple repair that should only take a bit of time. The repair shouldn't be rushed so that the result is a patch that is hard to detect. Here is what you should do:    CAUTION must be used when working near electric wires and devices. It would be wise to shut off the breaker at the panel before attempting this repair!  Remove loose plaster sections (right side of receptacle) and brush out dust and debris.  Cover receptacle with masking tape.  Mix about 2 cups of plaster patch according to instructions and with a putty knife push into wall opening. NOTE: Work with the knowledge that the plaster patch will set in a few minutes. Stay focused and don't delay. Start along the outside edge of the opening pressing the patch enough to adhere to the wooden lathe and existing plaster.   You will need to apply a second layer for a smooth finish. Mix the same amount but add a teaspoon more of water. This will delay the hardening of the patch to allow some extra time to work the compound smooth. Have a 4 inch putty knife ready after the second batch is applied so that you will only need a couple of passes with the 4 inch putty knife to smooth the patch.  When completed the still wet plaster will appear slightly darker than the existing plaster wall, but when it is fully cured will become a brighter white which can be painted if needed. It should match the surrounding wall in texture and thickness.


What material should I use for painted window jamb extensions?

For jamb extensions, I'll always use wood (pine/poplar) over mdf, as the tiniest bit of moisture on mdf will swell it like old cardboard. Be sure to prime every side of the wood (including cut ends) before installation.
You shouldn't try to have a gap between the extension and the window. Just butt it as close as you can and caulk with a paintable latex caulking. Avoid pure silicone, as it won't take paint.
In anticipation of casing the window, you want the jamb extension to be perfectly in-plane with the drywall. If the window is set slightly out of plumb, or there's something going on with the framing, that might mean putting a slight taper on the jamb extension before install. It's not a perfect solution, but if you find you need a taper, just mark the top/bottom of the jamb extension to where they'll be flush with the drywall and cut a straight line between the points. Rotate the jamb extension so that the cut edge is against the window and the factory edge meets casing. (You could go nuts trying to scribe the jamb extension exactly to the drywall, but your casing isn't going to conform to small wobbles and you'd have a cut edge that you'd have to tidy up a lot.) All that said, sometimes you just need to take a hammer and mash down a section of drywall that's sticking up. Stay within the boundaries of the casing and nobody but you will know what a terrible thing you did.
If you're fastening into a wood buck or framing, life is pretty easy -- just shims and nails. If it's into concrete, I'd try to build the entire unit with screws at the butt joints and then insert it into the window opening. You'll still need a few attachment points into the concrete, but it'll hold itself together without too much strain.
Be accurate, even, and square with the jamb extensions and the casing will go more easily. Having said that, I will occasionally intone the carpenter's creed: "Caulk and paint make you the carpenter you ain't."


Under what circumstances can aluminum be in contact with steel?

Unfortunately, you're correct:  the moisture in the air can and will affect both.

In reality, both of the scenarious you describe happen pretty often.  Sometimes it's terrible, sometimes not.

The ultimate choice for you is a balancing act based on practicality:  How easy/cheap to install vs. how meaningful/terrible are the consequences (and after how much time).

When it comes to flashing, I'd do it right, first time, no exceptions.  The consequences are just too dire for a poorly done job.

As for using an aluminum patch on a gavanized duct:  yes it'll corrode after a while.  But no big deal IMHO.


Some ideas:

Use a faster mortar (or an admix designed to speed cure time).
Finish the set in the evening to give it overnight to cure before foot traffic.
Lay down blankets and then plywood/OSB after the mortar has sufficiently set. It'll dramatically reduce the force on any particular tile and give you a good safety buffer.
Set one side of the area one day, and the other the next. (Grout it all together for color consistency.)


Is a roofing delivery truck likely to crack my driveway slab?

Unless your home is a 20 bedroom mansion I would simply tell them to keep that off your driveway period.   You can't tell what load it will take because it depends how packed it still is, what condition it is in and how thick it was poured (and if this was uniformly done).   Often these large trucks will crack driveways in the corners of their pours since the depth in the parts are tapered even by the most reputable companies and can get to 3-4" inches with poor contractors.

So just don't let them on driveway or make that a risk their insurance will pay for.   I have roofers at sites all the time.   I hardly ever let them on the driveway.   With a crew of 4-5 they can carry the stuff/wheelbarrow/whatever and it is done in 20 mins.   Stay off my driveways, don't break them, don't drop crap from your trucks, don't spit mud everywhere - not my problem.

If my front lawn is not in great condition and it is dry I tell them to use that.   That is all I offer.   If they have a regular truck then fine.   Even a bobcat I will not let them go up and down the driveway unless they are paying for repairs.

Bottom line is you paid for a new roof.   Their deal to get shingles to your house.   Not saying to be unreasonable - I try to make things easy for trades to get future discounts but you must use common sense.   There is a good chance that crew suggests pulling truck next to house and then if the owner came out he would yell at them (worried about being liable for damage).   Yes of course a truck that big could damage a good percentage of driveways.

Addition for dump truck: This depends on size.  I have never had a roofing company use a dump truck at my site.  These are less risk because of wheel sizes but still not letting a full size one on my driveway.   Most roofing companies for a residential house use dump trailers that are a lot less invasive and they are lower to the ground so you can get these really close to house so there isn't a ton of stuff in the gap.

(FYI this size truck is about the same size the big boxes use to deliver bulk drywall.   The operators of these trucks will not come on your driveway if you request that they do.   Simply they know the chance for damage is high and they would probably be liable and get fired.   That is why they use a forklift.   If there was no risk then these huge companies would be instructing their operators to save time by driving as close as possible - big companies micromanage these processes to make money.)


How to detach this faucet sprayer? Photos included

It doesn't just turn? If not, then I'd guess you depress that little tab with the circle and then turn it.

Righty tighty, lefty loosey.


Removing a keystone jack from the wall plate

Yes.  It is possible.

Keystone jacks almost always have two angled ledges.  One stationary upon which the keystone pivots (Red below), and the other spring loaded which 'snaps' into place (Green below).

Jam a straight blade in at the blue angle to push the green tab in, and pry it out.

In 3by1 and 3by2 outlet plates, it's normal that they are too close together to take out in any old order.  You have to start from one end and work to the other of the plate.


I presume you mean rubbing alcohol AKA Isopropyl Alcohol should be fine.

Also consider Hydrogen Peroxide - H2O2 the extra oxygen molecule wants to break off to stabilise and leave H2O (water) behind. That stray oxygen will attack organic matter, the stuff likely causing the smell by oxidizing it. When applied it will fiz and bubble, this is normal. It should remove any discolouration or stain caused by the mould too if present. Delicate wood could be bleached a bit though so I'd test under the table 1st.


How can I close gaps between curtains temporarily?

Clothespins
A package of clothespins:

will do the trick. Depending on the length of the curtains and how tightly you want them pulled together, you would probably use between 3 and 6. You can remove them totally when open or leave them clipped to one side.
No sewing! No gluing!


Bedrock - skip the basement, have the best foundation money can't buy. Remove the dirt, drill holes for pins to anchor your footings to the rock, build a house on it - or a skyscraper.

If you have more of a "fight with nature, rather than work with nature" approach, it's going to be harder, more expensive, and more tedious, and exactly what options you have and how dreadful they will be will depend on the rock - granite is rather more difficult than schist, for a couple typical NE USA bedrocks.


Do I need a ground for a 2-wire BX cable to a stove?

2014 NEC 250.118.10 all 3 examples of using Metal Clad include the use of a grounded conductor. In the 2014 NEC handbook 330.108 states. "the interlocked sheath cable construction is not recognized as an EGC." so it would not be lega. A discrete conductor is needed for the Equipment Grounding Conductor.


Sanity check mini split layout for old brick house

The way to go here is definitely the ductless mini splits. It sounds as though you have done your homework on this and you can always find what we call straight cooling units without heat. The mini splits are far more efficient than nearly any other system these days and you can choose which room you need to cool and how much it needs and when.You'll be glad you chose to go this way after its done.As far as stand by power, just unplug or turn off a breaker, but its not a lot of power loss either way. As far as over kill, you'll be glad if you add some overkill to an old home, they usually need it unless they are very well insulated and have great windows. Just speaking from experience.....good luck.


Surge Protection for Line Voltage LED Fixtures

First, if you put a whole house surge suppressor on a single circuit, I won't tell :)

The biggest issue I see is where to put such a device. You can't stick it just anywhere. It would offend aesthetics to mount it on the wall surface, and you can't bury it inside the wall.

If you have a multi-gang light switch and you're willing to sacrifice a switch position, it might fit there.

It might also fit up in the "can" of the LED light.

When hooking up a 120/240V surge suppressor 120-only, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

With LED durability, it's all about the electronic driver.  The finest, most expensive light won't stand a chance if they went with a cheap Cheese driver off Alibaba.   On the other hand, drivers are commodities and are not that hard to replace.

When I want extreme durability from LEDs, I use 12V or 24V LEDs (which have no particular electronics on board, just a dropping resistor) and any expendable, swappable, commodity 12/24V power supply, which I expect to fail from time to time (unless it says GE).  This has the added advantage that it plays extremely well with DC backup power systems.


You should get yourself the counter sink drill bit for the screws. They are not expensive and will create a much nicer appearance as they can let you drill down into the molding so that the screw head is fully below the surface and much easier to conceal with the matching trim putty.

Another thing to consider is that when installing with the trim piece with construction adhesive this is the primary thing holding the trim in place. The main job of the screws is to hold the trim in place until the construction adhesive dries. For this reason it is not necessary to use screws with huge diameter heads. A smaller screw like a #6 or #8 that is the length specified by the trim manufacturer should be more than adequate.

If this were my application and only installing such molding at the head of the stairs I would consider using only construction adhesive and placing heavy weights on the molding for 24-36 hours. If you use something like concrete blocks for the weights protect the surface of the trim and floor using some rosin paper.

Another thing I notice from your picture is that it appears that you are installing this molding before you have dealt with baseboard moldings at the wall. This is the incorrect order to do this. Instead install the baseboard first and the fit the molding full length up to the baseboard. There is no real need for an expansion gap for the molding itself because it is relatively short.


How to remove block of concrete under old toilet

If the floor tile is going underneath it, it should come up pretty easy. do use a chisel and hammer and crack from the top only if possible. You may be able to separate it from the flooring in one piece by setting the chisel at the floor and wedging up the chunk, but you may dislodge tile while you are at it although it will not be likely, still possible. Best to try from the top only, the vibration may make the whole piece come loose anyway....


OK ..I Just found it by looking online at the instructions of the LED kits I have been buying.  The nut I was looking for is

  No. 8-32 Hex Nut


Trying to understand wiring to old heat lamp in bathroom

Since you are on breakers 10 & 12 it is probably a multiwire branch circuit sharing the neutral, today's code requires handle ties if this is the case. Verify the hot feeding the light and switch. A noncontact tester may show a hot line or a phantom induced voltage. Depending on the wiring it could be a switched neutral this would be a code violation and is common in home owners doing there own wiring. The correct way would be to take the black wire that feeds the light and connect it to the black that goes to the switch, in the switch box the white wire that comes in with the black needs to be marked with paint or electrical tape a color other than white or green. The white in the light on the same cable feeding the switch needs to me marked also. Heat lamps usually take special fixtures that have high temp wires and many of the heat lamp fixtures have a maximum wattage of 300w some much less. Excess wattage lamps can be the cause for the discoloration of the insulation. The wiring needs to be evaluated and possibly repaired with proper junction boxes added. It would be a good idea to add handle ties to breaker 10-12 if it is a multiwire branch circuit. They may not have been required when the home was wired but are a good safety feature now. This or replacing the 2 breakers with a double pole breaker with 1 handle.


The jury is still out on these types of products.  I was at a contractors day at my local Lowes and the rep from one of the manufactures of the epoxy style coverings was there demonstrating the product. The end result was a smooth, not sandy, but mottled non skid finish. the dried samples on display revealed about an 1/8" coating on the wood. I did spend a little time talking with the rep and he cautioned that the wood needs to be clean and free of any loose decay, oil or grease (like from a BBQ). Any loose nails should be replaced, better if the deck was screwed down so nails would not work up through the new finish.  He did not claim that this was a "fix" for rotting wood or a surface in very bad condition. This product seems to me to be an alternative to conventional sealers or stain. The claim to fame is that it will outlast regular sealers and stain for years. The previous points about spacing and the top of the joists are very valid. My biggest concern is the holding ability if used over bad wood. I think lots of people will try this hoping to stretch the lives of aging decks. Since this product is so new, there are few anecdotal cases with which to compare it. I might be tempted to try if if a customer insists on it, but think I'll wait until I get some feedback from other contractors or users. the cost is also a consideration, it is expensive.


Is it necessary to shut off the water in order to tighten a handle on a Moen faucet?

If all you're trying to do is tighten a loose handle - the answer is no - you don't have to shut off the water. The screw to the handle should be on top of the handle. Sometime it's under a cap which is usually just pressed in to the handle. Pry it off with a blade of some type and tighten the screw.
That should do it unless you have a setup that's totally different than most Moen faucet handles. In that case - send a picture.


Ceiling fan light went off completely and now it blinks one short blink and comes on okay

You are overloading it.  It is probably listed for 40W bulbs.  Switch some of the bulbs to LEDs.

It may be best to keep one incandescent; some electronic modules do not like it when they are all LEDs.

Since you just bought incandescents, I assume you have been put off by the ugly, dazzling blue of the early LED attempts. You and everyone else. They are much better now.  While it's always possible to buy cheap junk, any reasonable quality of LED allows your choice of color temperature from 5000K LED dazzle-blue, clear down to 2700K traditional incandescent.

What they're selling you now as "incandescents" are in fact halogens, which still incandescent but with a trick for efficiency (not much).  It is also bluer (not much) so its light is 3000K - keep that in mind if matching.

Cheapie LEDs tend to be 5000k because it's cheaper to make. Cheapies also tend to have terrible CRI, meaning the various colors are all lop-sided - too much blue, no green, etc.  If CRI is specified, aim for 80% or above. If it's not specified, lookout!   Actually 5000K does have its uses (it matches daylight) but nobody wants bad CRI.


Ethernet Cables and Coax Cables running outside house? How to Modify to Home Distribution Panel

If this were my house, I'd figure out where those cables are on the other side of that wall, and pull them back into the house, patch the holes, and arrange connections inside.

Your telephone runs are going to be terminated together, for whatever landline service you get. The telephone provider should provide a Network connection jack.
Your TV lines will get connected to your service provider's equipment (when you get one) or antenna/amplifier/splitter.
Your Ethernet drops will get connected to a switch or router connected to your Internet providers equipment. (perhaps that cell box you mention)

The only outside gear should be that provided by the service providers, and they will bring wires inside the house to your connections.

The electrical codes really don't say much about low voltage wiring, which this all is.  You can run wires in walls, provide connection plates, etc.  Do it safely and sensibly.

To figure out what goes where, look into signal tracers as mentioned in other comments.


Before attempting to replace the ballast, I'd check to make sure it wasn't the bulbs first. If they're blackened at the ends, then it's the bulbs.

Otherwise, it may be the ballast.

First, cut power to the light by flipping the breaker. I'd check to make sure you got the right circuit by flipping the light switch on and off afterwards.

Next, open up the fixture and remove the bulbs. There's usually a center section of the fixture that is held in place by several flanges. Squeeze the center section to remove it.

The ballast should be inside - it looks like a rectangular box. Unscrew the wire nuts attaching it to the fixture. (I replace them on the exposed wire ends afterward just for a little extra safety.) Un-bolt the ballast from the fixture.

Take the ballast to a hardware store and get a matching replacement.

Reverse and repeat.

If you want pictures, here's a tutorial with the same basic approach.

Also, here's another resource that suggests replacing the entire fixture may actually be cheaper.


it depends how far those holes go. if you can over-feed one end of the joist, you can then align the other end with with the other hole and
back it in.

ledgers, as you suggest are a legitimate solution too, also brackets, but on brick ledgers are easier.

ledgers both sides is probably the easiest to get right. you're then not relying on any unseen features of the building construction, and avoiding any potential unpleasant surprises.


Adding always hot outlet to switch controlling fan

No.  If the line wire goes to the light box first, the wires to the switch from there are used as a line wire and a switch leg.  To add a receptacle at that location you would need a line wire and a neutral wire, so you'd need a 3 wire cable.  One option you may have with modern products would be to switch the light to a wireless switch and use the wires as line and neutral, all though that may give you nuisance concerns.  If removing drywall or damaging finish is prohibitively expensive, you may need to hire a Master electrician to pull a wire to a new box for you using a concealed work permit.


Should I turn the water off to my home during a winter absence?

Wow, this got long but after 2 times replacing pipes and a toilet in a detached garage this is what I learned to do many years ago. After that we have not had problems, but we're in a warmer climate now....

If you turn the water off please turn the power off to the water heater or if gas turn it to pilot. If there will be no heat at all and your area gets below 27 to 28F it would be a good idea to drain the water heater. Turn the main water supply off, or if on a well drain the pressure tank first, then open the sinks, flush the toilets and last open the outside hose bibs or faucets. This will pull as much of the water out of the pipes possible and even if the water in the pipes freeze there won't be solid water to expand and break the pipes.

This is what I found on exterior water lines in out buildings that were not heated with -23F and a wind chill of -80+ or cold enough to toss a hot cup of coffee 5-6 feet and it hit the wall like a shlushie (don't do this with white walls because we thought it was fun did it maybe a dozen times on the detached garage the next spring I had to repaint that side of the garage from the big brown spots but it was fun).

So if unheated drain water turn power off flush toilets and you should be ok. It took me 2 years to get it right but no problems after that.


Ridge beam sizing for an 8'6" x 20' tiny house

Massive overkill.

If you are content to give up the vertical height this monster takes, simply extend the line of its bottom out to 1/2" from the top face of the rafter and cut a lot of (looks like 24) 1/2" plywood triangles.

Glue and screw to the face of the rafters (which you'll cut to meet in the middle.) You can cut a scrap of 2X to fill the bottom void, but it will make little difference for this scale.

You don't need a ridge beam at all. You just need to keep the ends of your rafters from spreading, and the gusset will do that nicely for a house this tiny. If you want to cut the points off and use a 1x4 ridge board on top, sure, fine, structurally irrelevant.

This is particularly important since you are putting it on a trailer, so excess, wasteful weight is a detriment.

Which might be a good reason to talk to a licensed engineer (I'm merely a vernacular builder, but I have sheds bigger than that with less roof structure that have taken snow loads for 20+ years) about how to minimize the structural overkill to suit the scale of the house. You've already given building codes for houses the brush-off by putting it on a trailer - perhaps you should learn more about how trailers are efficiently built before you give up a lot of interior volume and add a lot of weight for structure you don't actually need.

If time is not too much of the essence, you could potentially get some engineering class interested in taking it on as a class project.

If you are open to a change in roof style, the traditional mobile tiny house (the Gypsy caravan) features a stylish arched roof structure (you might need to consider altering the traditional exterior detailing in light of what speeds you'll tow at.)


First off, it is the draft inducer motor that is turning on then shutting off, not the blower. There is no possibility that it is the flame sensor or the pressure switch since neither items had been called for yet.
Order of operation:
1 thermostat calls for heat
2 inducer motor is called for and starts spinning
3 draft is proven via the pressure switch. If the pressure switch was bad the motor would just keep spinning with no ignition
4 igniter will ignite
5 gas valve will open and burners will ignite
6 flame sensor will complete circuit to ground via      flame rectification. If it doesn’t sense flame it will stay lit for about 3 seconds then go out.
7 blower will come on.
Your furnace only got to step 2 so the problem is before that. Check for voltage at the inducer motor.  Best to use alligator clips and see if voltage drops out when the motor disengages. If voltage stays constant the problem is in the motor. If voltage drops to 0 then your problem is elsewhere. Jumper the W and R thermostat terminals at the circuit board to eliminate the thermostat or thermostat wires as the problem. If it is still happening then the problem is either the circuit board or a loose wire between the circuit board and the inducer motor.


Underground electrical to garage - burying depth?

It depends. Mostly it depends on what's above the conduit - if there's at least 4" of concrete above the conduit, and it's at least 6" to either side, that's all you need. Combines well with a concrete walkway to the garage, say.

With 2" of concrete on top of it in the trench, it can be 12" deep (to the top of the conduit - 12" of cover.) If you hit solid rock before that, you can also concrete encase it 2" above, to the sides, and down to the rock.

Just dirt, you need at least 18" of cover. Technically you may also need to change to schedule 80 for any above-ground part that is deemed "subject to damage" (a vague part of the code, leaving it up to the inspector) - practically speaking it often makes sense just to use schedule 80 PVC for the entire run - it costs more, but usually not that much more, and it is more durable.


Can I vent a window air conditioner through a joist space for 30 feet?

I suspect the owner's manual for your AC would spell out the duct length capacity but I strongly suspect that 30' is much too long, especially with that vinyl duct which is, quite frankly, garbage.  Corrugated duct in general is not a great idea for long runs because it creates so much more air resistance but if you have to use it, look for the metal type which looks like a Slinky wrapped in tin foil.  Not to mention it will last much longer. Better still, if you can figure a way to route it, is rigid sheet metal duct which you can get at a big box store and perhaps fasten smaller sections together as you push it ahead in the overhead space, sealing the seams with foil duct tape.  That would give you the best chance at a satisfactory outcome but again, I think you will find 30' is too far for a small unit regardless...

BTW, do not under any circumstances vent into the ceiling space.  Utter disaster in the making ;)


That looks very much like a PC fan mounting screw. They typically go through the thin sheet metal of the computer case, then self-tap into the plastic mounting holes in the fan housing.
If you don't have any spares lying around (OK, I guess not everyone is a computer geek with piles of spare parts and mountains of spare screws - I'm on a 27-step program to cut back...), pull one out of your current desktop computer and compare it. If it is a match, either order some from someplace like Newegg or Amazon, or just order a replacement fan sized to fit your computer (they do die eventually, so having a spare won't hurt) and canabilize the screws from it. When your fan dies in the computer, you'll have the spare on hand and can reuse the screws to mount the new one.


This problem is likely caused by one of these things:

The wood roof sheathing under the sag area is rotted away eliminating the support for the shingles.
There is a gap between the sheathing edge and the rain gutter with no support for the shingles. Over time with heat and freezing cycles and winter ice build up the shingles has just sagged into the gap.
The rain gutter was installed too high on the rafter end fascia and it pushed up the tails on the lower course of shingles.

The fix needed to take care of the problem will require detailed analysis to determine the exact cause of the dished shingles. Once that is understood you can proceed with the proper fix.


Treehouse joists on beams or beside beams?

Joists crossing on top of beams is much stronger.
this is because when joists are butted up to beans they are flexible at the join.

I would try to avoid nail lamination in an outdoor location and instead use full-size beams and joists, if the beams must be laminated seal the top to keep rain out of the crack.


Should I protect a freshly sanded, untreated deck from the weather?

Water will raise the grain of your nice, smooth decking, requiring a re-sand. Also, rain will soak into the wood, requiring a significant dry-time delay before sealing.

Yes, you should tarp it.


What is the correct height of a toilet flange relative to the finished floor?

The original intent of the toilet flange is to screw down to the finished flooring, not below it, definitely not shimmed up above the finish floor, although there is a small bit of room if there is a small error in the install, say no more than 1/8"-1/4" Remodeling has made it a regular practice of setting the flange below a newly installed finish floor where the toilet was already in place. Larger (taller) wax rings or doubling get past that issue. And with that in new construction, setting the flange on the subfloor has become acceptable, also setting it below the finished floor.


Lights Dim on Electricity as well on Generator

Almost every time I had a service call where lights are dimming and don't seem to be related (such as they are not on the same circuit). I always found a broken neutral and I usually found it on the service drop. If you are replacing receptacles and switches because they need replacing then that's OK, but its not going to fix your problem. You need to look deeper into the wiring and start checking out neutrals and grounds and possibly where a ground is being used a neutral. This happens most frequently if the original wiring has been disturbed such as in a remodel area of the dwelling.

This can be a long and drawn out process. That's why I would start at the service drop and the grounding electrode system. Take a good look where the service drop neutral is connected at the bracket and see if that is where the conductor has broken by wind movement and such. Then inspect the entire triplex drop to see if some insulation is nicked or broken off of the hot conductors and see if it has shorted and burnt the neutral in half.

Good luck


Fix subflooring near wall with ventilation

Cut the opening around the old hole 2-3" larger than the hole that is there now, unless you can cut an edge in the middle of the joist. With that opening large enough away from the metal in the hole, set halfway under the newly cut edge, 2X4 placed flat so that approx. 1 3/4" is under the original floor and the rest is out in the opening. Glue this in place and draw in place with screws.

Cut a new piece of subfloor and screw and glue it in place too. The blocks you cut only need to be a few inches longer than the hole on either end. It will be stronger than the original.

On the side that is close to the wall you may not be able to cut 2 or more inches, if you can leave 1 1/2" of subfloor there, it may be tight to get the block in, but you will still be able to cut it with a circular saw. If you have a reciprocating saw or multimaster you could go as close as an inch, and still get screws in.


Should all charred wood be replaced in a home fire restoration?

You would need to have an independent inspector (someone who does not do fire renovation) come out and look at it. If the wood is solid, then the insurance company did indeed go above and beyond by painting it with the "paint" product to seal in the smoke smell and the potential carcinogens. Really, if there was no true structural damage, wood didn't need to be replaced.

Disclaimer: I'm just some guy on the internet. Consult a qualified professional or your lawyer. I am neither.


In order of increasing cost:

This website has a few good plans for simple garages available at no cost.

TodaysPlans looks like it has some good plans for free, but you have to get them through email.

Mybackyardplans has a few for free, but they look to be low quality.

This website has them starting around $70.

JustGaragePlans has a wide range to pick from, but they're going to run $100+ per plan.


How to remove rust and paint my barbecue?

Steel wool and a wire brush with a lot of elbow grease will get the rust off. Once cleaned you can apply a spray can of high heat black paint. The kind I find and buy doesn't have a gloss to it though so getting that shine might require a high heat enamel paint which I'm not aware of being in a spray can at my local stores.


What would cause a musty smell from my portable A/C unit?

What I have found is the drain has gotten plugged in tha back outside section, dust builds up and plugs the hole , the other thing I have found that causes portables to smell musty is when they are installed level. There is supposed to be a tilt to the back so the condensate will run to the back and drain outside. There are special cleaners for AC systems make sure to use non acid based cleaners and flush with clear water. Acid based cleaners are very hard on the cooling fins and can start corrosion that will shorten the units life. I would want to flush my unit if musty and make sure it is draining completely or the smell will come back after cleaning .


This should be a back flow-prevention measure, for flash flooding rains. I think your only good, but expensive ($1000), option would be to replace this setup with a Back-Flow Prevention Valve or Check Valve. Call the Builder or get a qualified Plumber...have them checkout your Water Supply Line too, that thing looks 100-years old. Otherwise, turn that corner into a closet or faux bookshelf.


It looks like there should be a bolt with a hex-head that you unscrew using a spanner (wrench) to replace the hinge mounting (the hinge itself appears to be integral to the seat).

It's a designer toilet, designers tend to prioritise visuals over practicality.

If you put some pulling force under part 4 (e.g. lever with a screwdriver using a small dowel as a fulcrum) it might create enough friction on the (presumed) captive nut or insert to hold it in place while you unscrew the bolt.


Apron sink available for or able to fit a regular 30" base?

Usually cabinets for apron sinks (farm sink) have a cabinet sized for the sink. Cabinet doors are shorter, for example. I would not expect any modifications on a standard sink base, or any other standard base cabinet would do what you need.


How To Cut/Shave Existing Drop In Sink To Fit New Faucets

What is the material of the drop-in sinks? If it is porcelain on cast iron grinding would expose cast iron which would rust. I suppose you could paint it, but this probably would rust through. If the sinks are solid ceramic you might be able to grind it away with a diamond wheel on an angle grinder or diamond bit on a high speed rotary tool.

I think it would be easier to cut off parts of the flanges on the new faucets. Would you have to cut off parts on both sides of the flanges? If you could confine the cutting to one side (the back), then it would be against the back-splash and would not visible. Of course you want to leave enough flange to seal.


How to modify and redirect the tankless water heater steam exhaust away from the house?

The fact that this is PVC (type IV ducting) tells me this should already be a condensing unit, so the amount of steam should already be minimal.

There's nothing stopping you from projecting that pipe further away from your house as long as it doesn't get withing 3 feet of your neighbor.

Based on your interior pictures, I'd recommend just drilling another hole in he side of your house closer to where your unit (which is generally the preferred way to vent the unit), which should move the steam far enough from your house vent based on the pictures you provided.

Else, if you think you are still likely to have issues with the exhaust, you really should move it up to the roof / chimney.

However, as long as you don't obstruct the airflow, you could minimize the steam of the current outside vent by running it into something like a dryer vent bucket:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Indoor-Dryer-Vent-Kit-TDIDVKHD6/203626526

Be aware, that the exhaust from high efficiency water heaters is acidic and will eat away at any metals that might be part of your pail setup.


Explain different type of fire detector?

Two alarm systems don't make for twice the protection

What you have here is a smoke/heat combination detector for a central station fire alarm system.  Note that it cannot alarm by itself -- it requires the "brain" of a compatible central station fire alarm control panel as well as a notification appliance such as a horn or a strobe connected to the panel in order for the system to work and sound the alarm when smoke or excessive heat is detected.

So, in your case, this smoke detector is the detector for your alarm system.  The rest of the hardwired alarms will set each other off when they detect smoke, but only this detector will alert the alarm system when it detects smoke, provoking the alarm system into dialing the monitoring service as well as setting off whatever horns, strobes, or whatnot that have been connected to the alarm system.

In general, buildings only use one type of fire alarm system (multiple-station or central station), not the mix of both you see in your house.  Multiple-station systems are easier and cheaper to maintain and also more familiar to home owners; however, a properly configured central station system can automatically notify the FD if there's a fire, and can also supervise the fire alarm wiring so that the alarm panel will tell you there's trouble if a wire breaks or alert the monitoring company that someone is tampering with your house's fire protection systems.  A properly installed central station fire alarm system with monitoring also may give you a discount on homeowner's insurance; however, monitoring itself is a monthly expense, and central station systems can be more costly and difficult for an individual homeowner to maintain.


Tile pattern with two different tile thickness

5mm Easymat (or similar product) is the better solution. You don't want to build the thinset up too much.


How do I patch a hole in concrete sidewalk over open tunnel?

Immediately, and until you are done patching it, put an orange traffic cone over the hole.

Slip a flat stick tied to a wire in the middle through the hole. Pull the wire up to make the stick cover at least part of the bottom of the hole - you can perhaps twist the wire on the rusty rebar to hold it in place. Push the remaining ends of the wire down below sidewalk level.

Wet the sides of the hole.

Mix a VERY stiff (relatively dry) mortar or cement patch mix and place in the hole. For best results, don't try to fill it level at first - some will drip out the remaining hole at the bottom unless your stick is a very close fit. The aim of the first batch is to really plug the hole. When that has set up a bit, but before very long (a couple of hours) come back and use a slightly wetter mix to fill to sidewalk level.

Alternatively (depending on the size of this tunnel and the expense of "collapsing it next year") call up a company that "pumps grout" and have them show up with  truck, poke a nozzle in the hole, and fill the tunnel with "grout" (more or less low-grade concrete, though there's probably other technical differences.) Depending who does what in your area, "cellular concrete" might be another option (effectively "foam cement.")

If it's your tunnel (I presume if you plan to collapse it next year), I'd be just as concerned about the vehicles parked on top of it breaking through (given the obviously deteriorated condition of the sidewalk, and something parked right on top of it in your picture) as of people tripping, liability-wise.


How to support existing above garage-door storage platform?

Can you get a laminated beam up under the rafters like a purlin and sit it on 90 degree brackets on the wall either side?


How to repair chair pocket joints with limited tools

Spread the joint apart and scrape off any excess,loose glue. Spread your wood glue over all the surfaces of the joint, in any dowel rod holes and around dowels. Make sure there's a groove in the dowel rod so excess glue can escape. Press the joint together firmly, tapping it with the hammer. Take your rope and wrap it around the seat frame of the chair and tie a knot leaving enough slack so you can loop the hammer or other object in the rope and twist it to tighten the rope around the frame, clamping the joint tight,like tightening a tourniquet. Let the glue dry 24 hours and you should be good to go.


limit detection angle of a motion sensor light switch

I did the same thing for a motion sensor in my alarm system. A window in the corner of the view was causing false alarms.

I am assuming that your sensor is similar, it has a semicircular translucent cover over the IR sensor. I disassembled mine and put black electrical tape on the back side of the translucent cover to block part of the view.

You could also put tape on the front, but it won't look as nice.


How do I replace the cartridge on this tap?

Unfortunately that seems to be a discount "unbranded" faucet; in other words it is likely mass produced in the far east or is an unlabeled version from a more common manufacturer. As such, finding parts diagrams to help with disassembly will probably be just as difficult as finding any actual parts.

I will say that the cartridge for this style is commonly accessed by removing the chrome "button" at the top of the handle, then removing a screw underneath that holds the handle on. Once the handle is unfastened and removed (which may require a handle puller tool if it's stuck), then the threaded chrome collar is unscrewed anti-clockwise (when looking from the top). Then the cartridge can be pulled directly out.


How close can light be to exposed insulation?

You are good.  Even with normal bulbs this is fine.


First check to make sure that your coils are all clean.  Make sure the condenser fan is running.  Check temperature of condenser coil.  It should be hot.


Is it ok to use a frame hardboard siding as a tennis wall?

Hitting a tennis ball hard against "hardboard" siding would be expected at the very least to damage the paint and perhaps breakdown the siding over time.


Cracks in Garage Floor Causes Cracks in Polyaspartic Garage Floor Coating

The type of coating like this should need extra work for preparing it.
The cracks :

Mainly the cause of cracks comes from moisture (Water) and oil spilled on your floor. This moisture if you just spray the coating on it it will make your coating have microbubbles and leaving you with cracks.
Or the concrete/floor is not porous as stated in the product application manual.

In the product application manual :

SURFACE PREPARATION
Proper surface preparation is critical to achieving the best results. Scrub heavily soiled areas with RockSolid Heavy Duty Degreaser or Rust-Oleum Cleaner & Degreaser (sold separately). Scrub thoroughly, then rinse. Repeat as needed. Use the supplied RockSolid concrete etch per the instructions to provide the proper surface condition to ensure proper adhesion. Rinse the floor thoroughly and allow it to dry completely.

You should let it clean first hand before you apply any coating.
This user manual for your product from Amazon link you provide
If you didn't want to see a long PDF content, the summary of the solution:

Scrap back all coating first. (paint or coating dust is dangerous, use proper equipment for your health)
Clean your floor from oil.
Let it completely dry.
Check the porous or just sanding the floor would help the adhesion.
Apply the coating (Refer to the PDF how to apply the coating, the instruction is too long in the summary answer)

I hope this will help you


Is this grounding configuration correct?

You have two service disconnects, so this is mostly fine
Your situation where you have a splitter box or trough as part of the service hardware is not at all unheard-of.  Since the two panels each have their own service disconnect, they have their own bonding means to go with it. This isn't much different from a duplex with two meters/panels fed from a single service entrance via a similar splitter box/trough, and likewise, that trough needs to be bonded to the service neutral, just like a meter pan.  This is also a legal place for the grounding electrode conductor connection to be made, as NEC 250.24(A)(1) permits that connection to be made anywhere from the load end of the service drop/lateral to the neutral bus on the service disconnecting means.
However, there is one issue, and that's the excess of bonding jumpering going on here, as that effectively parallels the neutral going from the meter out to the panels.  Utility and local Code standards permitting, I would have the rigid nipples between the splitter box and panels replaced with PVC, or at least fitted with insulating couplings, so that service neutral current can't stray onto parallel bonding paths, and the extraneous bonding wires from the trough to the panels removed.  This corrects a NEC 250.6(A) violation due to the parallel paths and also eliminates the need for bonding bushings + their associated jumpers.


What is the easiest way to stop a door from catching on the floor?

If the condition has developed over time, you can try tightening all of the screws on the hinges.  If any of the screws keep turning then you can replace them with longer screws so that they grip the stud behind the frame and pull the door up.

If you recently installed carpet or a new floor then you will need to plane the bottom of the door with either a hand planer or by sanding.  There is also a planer attachment for the dremels which works pretty well for light jobs, and in some cases you can even do it without removing the door.


Extremely porous concrete to act as water drain?

There is a concrete that I have used, and it is regular concrete, and perhaps it can have gravel in it, but the type I have installed did not use any gravel/aggregate. Dry pack is what I have learned to know it by, and stone setters use it for building walls and laying flagstone sidewalks. I have used it for shower bases over PVC liner and coated it with Redguard for waterproofing. That is where I learned that it took on water real fast. I was to dampen the dry pack slab I set 2 days before. What water I poured on to move around just fell into the concrete, did not stand at all. I even had a decent troweled surface.

The mix is the same, just add enough water to get the concrete to form a ball when compressed in your hand, and I mean just enough, too much will screw it up.

This may be worth a shot, but be careful, this may clog too from atmospheric dirt, decayed debris settling in etc.

The pipe since it is covered with concrete can be black corrugated drain tile or perforated sch 35 set in a gravel bed. Holes in the pipe are slits in the black drain tile and gravel size will not matter. In the Sch 35 the holes are larger so you do not want to use a small gravel there, #57 crushed stone or something larger than 3/4" washed gravel depending on your area. You may want to consider using a different type of area drain. The way you describe "shower drain", sound like it get clogged pretty easily. Replacing the drain you have with something that has a much larger grate or trap included that allows debris to collect, but not clog, may do you well too.


What could cause a battery hedge trimmer to have white smoke come out of it?

Your hedge trimmer sounds like it has died or is in the process of dying.
A quick google search confirms that this can occur with Black & Decker hedge trimmers, although it does not appear to be wide spread. Because you didn't provide the model it isn't possible to give you a more specific reason why it has failed. My opinion is that when you were having difficulty cutting larger stems, the motor was overworked and this is what led to the failure.
Random reviews about white smoke coming from a electric Black & Decker hedge trimmer

unfortunately, mine is broken. I just purchase it from walmart and while using it a smoke started coming out. I took it back to walmart for replacement but they told me to contact black and decker for a replacement.
It seemed to be working great initially and trimmed small forsythia bushes great. However within a short period it started to clatter. I never cut anything larger than about 1/8" and only recharged the batter once. After 10 minutes of use after the second battery charge dense white smoke poured out of the motor compartment, and that was that.

The smoke you are seeing is from the electric motor.

Is it safe to use this trimmer again?

Yes it is safe to continue using the hedge trimmer, however the electric motor will continue to fail until it doesn't work anymore if it is even working now at all.
As noted by Wayfaring Stranger, the electric motor may survive a little over heating, but from what I've read specifically about this issue with B&D electric hedge trimmers is that it's finished or will be very soon.
If it ceases to function, unfortunately you will have to return the product or purchase a new one.


Lutron LED/CFL Dimmer switch turns lights off the wrong way, up is down and down is up. What's the problem?

You've probably connected one of the 2 power wires to the incorrect traveler terminal on the switch.

This switch can be used as both a standard two-way switch as well as a three-way switch.  (A three-way switch is used when there are 2 switches controlling the same device.)

In standard two-way arrangement, one of the power wires should be attached to the common terminal (this screw is a darker color than the others) and the other power wire should be connected to the terminal on the opposite side of the switch (according to this switch's wiring diagram).  These two terminals are connected when the switch is flipped "up".

The third terminal (on the same side as the common terminal) is used only in three-way configuration.  If you've connected your second power wire here instead, then the device will receive power when the switch is flipped "down" because this is when that terminal is connected to the common terminal.


You almost certainly need a new tank (or bladder if you have a tank with replaceable bladder, though when I had one of those I was not thrilled to find a that a new bladder (no warranty, have fun swapping them) was almost equal to a new tank with new warranty, which made "replaceable bladder" much less of a "feature" in my mind.)
Your pressure switch may be adjustable - look up the instructions for it, as presumably they are not carefully stored nearby given the rest of your system problems.
Beware of simply getting what you have when replacing parts - if it was done wrong once, do it right the next time, don't repeat past mistakes like the sideways pressure tank.


Why is my electric circuit breaker tripping?

Based on your confirmation that the main breaker is tripping, and your description here:

  I have switched the individual fuses that are labeled emersion switch (as we don't have one) cooker unit (this only works the clock on the gas cooker) and down stairs lights off , the power so far is staying on but if I put any off these on the whole breaker trips.

This tells me that you do not have an overload situation.  There is a short, and/or one or more faulty breakers possibly including the main breaker.

Even an experienced DIY'er with electrical knowledge would probably contact an electrician at this point.  If there is a potential problem with the main breaker then it is best to get professional help.


Still reading open neutral after restoring power to lights and outlets

You found a classic case of why backstabs are considered  bad news by many electricians.
When you pulled the receptacles out the connection was temporarily reconnected and the lighting is working again. As we don’t know if everything was proper to start with but is functioning now I can tell you this will normally happen again and eventually burn the wire off at the weak point.
I would suggest checking each receptacle working back towards the supply or service and if one shows properly connected and the next one away shows wrong the problem is one of those 2 points and a device can be connecting ground and neutral down stream making them work or many other reasons.
If you plan to continue using a space heater I would suggest moving to the screw connectors or pigtails as this usually happens again with a heavy load.
The point of failure is at the last working or first non working receptacle or splice.
If this bedroom has a common wall with another don’t forget there could be a receptacle on the other side of the wall in that circuit.


Is soldering copper to aluminum wire allowed under NEC?

You mean like a rattail or Western Union splice, Al-Cu?
Your first problem is that soldering in general is so alien that an AHJ is likely to reject it out of hand, even if it were all Cu.  The ruling would likely be "You can solder if you can show how every other splicing method is impracticable".
But when it comes to Cu-Al splicing...

NEC 110.14 Electrical Connections. Because of different characteristics of dissimilar metals, devices such as pressure terminal or pressure splicing connectors and soldering lugs shall be identified for the material of the conductor and shall be properly installed and used. Conductors of dissimilar metals shall not be intermixed in a terminal or splicing connector where physical contact occurs between dissimilar conductors (such as copper and aluminum, copper and copper-clad aluminum, or aluminum and copper-clad aluminum), unless the device is identified for the purpose and conditions of use.
(B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use; or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered.

The sections I put in bold are in contradiction with each other.   110.14(B) requires direct contact between the Cu and Al wires, yet 110.14 forbids it.
The path to soldering is plainly identified in 110.14 with "soldering lugs".


Is there any harm in caulking the bottom of this electrical conduit plate or should it be left unsealed?

Yes, the gap is improper, and the conduit is not anchored,
Further it may need  to be a different type of conduit if it is subject to physical damage at that location (it didn't pull itself out). For instance, replacing the sharp elbow with a LB conduit body for schedule 80 PVC would be a step in the right direction.
The white cable we can see in the conduit is NM-B type, which is not allowed outside, underground or in wet locations, even if it is in conduit.
Even if it was allowed, it is too large for that size of conduit.  The conduit ID must be 138% of the widest dimension of the cable (which means UF cable won't work here either).
The right thing for running in conduit is THWN individual wires (i.e. loose wires, no sheath. Don't need a sheath in conduit.


First off, I'd be discussing this with the plumber, not his wife.
Since the final line being replaced is the cold supply, any one of the three could be used. Since it's being installed in the attic and probably running down walls, I think the PEX is your best bet. You can run it from point to point without any joints. We've all seen PVC leak from time to time and running it in an attic could expose it to cracking if anyone's up there moving around; they'd be less likely to damage the PEX. This might be considered to be an opinion based question so it could get bounced.


My rubber roof has developed a leak. Can it be fixed?

I found that the best way (in my case) was to make a small incision to get a patch behind or underneath the sheet glued on with plenty of rubber cement, and then put a larger patch over the top with a generous amount of rubber cement, smoothing the edges with glue as well.


Given the burn through we can see on the air duct, it is time to retire this baby. I would say that this baby has dried all the clothes it should be required to dry.


upgrade to a 200 amp service, cable wiring sizes

For a 200A residential service in the US or Cananda typical would be 4/0-4/0-2/0AL or 2/0-2/0-1/0CU conductors. Either combination would normally be run in 2" conduit.

This is only scratching the surface of what you need to know to do this project. Are you aware and knowledgeable of all the other requirements/codes/etc???


I'm really fascinated by your question and suggested solutions. I am glad to hear that you question the wisdom of some of the suggestions. There are a few factors that are important to consider before picking a solution.

What type of hardwood flooring are you thinking of using?  Nail down, staple down, glue down or floating?  With any type but a floating floor, SLC is definately the wrong product to use underneath, as it will shatter when nailed, and the thinner areas will probably separate from the underlayment when glued to. I also expect SLC will not adhear well to the old vinyl flooring or even the plywood subfloor. Any flex of the plywood subfloor will result in cracks and broken chunks of concrete.

I would explore the possibility of jacking the lower end up one inch. This would of course depend on what type of foundation it is resting on, the roof structure, if the existing ceiling is now level, or does it also slope the same one inch, and finally, if there are any windows in the side walls, as it would effect the level of those as well if jacked.

Assuming jacking is not an option, the next easiest way would be to install "purlins" or surface shim boards every 12 to 16 inches on center across the floor in decreasing thickness and install a new 3/4 inch subfloor over these, screwing it down all the way into the old floor.

The most work, but successful method would be to remove the old floor completely and sister the original floor joists. Using full size sister joists would not be necessary.  2X4s or 2X6's would be fine as long as a good bond was maintained to the existing 2X8's.  The custom wedge idea would work fine, but potentially difficult to rip long lengths for each joist and have them all consistent without a good ripping template, but could be done with a little forethought and clever rip guide.


How can I build pull-down shelving for kitchen appliances?

I've always wanted to do something with a shelf attached with cables to pulley blocks with counterweights.  Kind of old school, but would do the job for you.  Using counterweights is good in your situation, because the weight of the empty appliance (microwave with no food) is constant. The downside is you must spent a good deal of time designing the system to the fit and finish of your kitchen. It looks like you can get the cable and pulley blocks from amazonsupply.com.


Range Hood has plug, no outlet on the wall

It's common enough for range hoods to be supplied with a cord and plug.  It's also common for range hood connections to be made via BX.

The range hood should be designed so the cord-and-plug connection can be removed, presumably exposing a standard 1/2" trade size knockout (more like 3/4"), and then the BX can be fit up to that with a BX fitting. There'll be a compartment that opens up to hook up the wires.


Bagging is fine: the lack of oxygen will keep it from spontanously combusting.

Mineral spirit will clean it.


Laying bricks over old concrete sidewalks

If the old slab is still “sinking”, then it will continue sinking after the new bricks are installed on top of it. In fact, the additional weight from the bricks may accelerate the movement.

I think you have 4 options: 1) keep the slabs and do not add brick pavers, 2) remove existing concrete slab and install new slab or brick pavers, 3) mortar new bricks to existing slab, or 4) dry-set bricks over existing slab.

1) If you keep the slabs, you’ll need to find the cause of the settlement...sooner or later. It doesn’t sound like it’s a big deal now, but could become unsightly soon. Finding the cause could be difficult, unless it’s obvious, like drainage swale eroding, etc.

2) Wow, removing all that concrete is a lot of work and it sounds like most of it is just fine. (One plus for this option is that you’ll look like Charles Atlas when you’re done.) This is the most expensive option too, because you’ll need to replace it with something.

3) Mortaring bricks to the existing slab is least desirable, because you’ll need to fix the low spots, adjust the layout and install all the joints in the bricks so they align with the joints and cracks in the slab. Otherwise, the new bricks will crack randomly.

4) This seems the most reasonable. Installing dry-set brick pavers on the existing slab, you’ll first install a layer of sand for the base. This base can be adjusted for low spots. Also, in the future, if the slab settles more, the pavers can be removed and additional sand can be installed and then the pavers reinstalled. HOWEVER, the sand base must be contained. That is to say, the sand under the pavers and between the pavers will wash away if it’s not contained.


Is there a trick to make an electric screw driver with adjustable torque from a nonadjustable drill?

You could use a drywall screw adapter:

This one is for drywall. It does not limit torque, instead there is a clutch inside which disengages when the metal "tube" around the screwdriver bit in the center hits the workpiece, and that prevents screwing all the way through the drywall. It works pretty well, with reasonable accuracy. You can also change the drill bit, so it is not limited to drywall screws.

If you have a zillion drywall screws to install, rent one of these.

I think you can also buy torque limiters for your drill. That will probably be expensive.

Note standard AC mains powered electric drills aren't well suited as electric screwdrivers, because they generally use triac phase angle dimmers which have about zero control at low speed, also they're way too powerful and have lots of rotational inertia which means it's almost impossible to stop when needed. Battery powered drills are much better, the trigger has much better torque control usually.

EDIT Here's a neat video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R7klA7Cc80

Cheaper models don't have a clutch so they just make the bit cam out of the screw, which works with Philips (drywall) bits which are designed for this, but destroys other bits (PZ, Square) pretty quick... that's inconvenient. The one in the video has a clutch, that's what makes a "bbrtttt" noise when it disengages. So it would work with PZ bit wood screws, which is quite convenient for OSB floor panels...


Yes, the new plan really helps. Let’s call North going up. So, I see the basement bearing walls/beams run East-West and is on the South side of the stairs.

So, 2x10 joists at 16” on center will support say live load (people and furniture) of 40 lbs. per square foot plus a dead load (framing, ducts, etc.) of 10 - 14 lbs. per square foot, depending on the species and grade of lumber. This is perfect for current Code compliance.

However, the joists in the 2nd floor sitting room appears to span much further than that if you remove the wall between the kitchen and dining room.

The risk to removing this wall is that the floor will sag and crack the ceiling in the kitchen and dining room...or worse, the 2x10’s are spliced over this wall and they will fail.

So, you’ll need to do a little more investigation. On the 2nd floor, what is the distance from the South wall of the stair to the South exterior wall?


How to know whether fuse is sufficient for electrical device?

1500 W/ 230 V = 6.5 A

800 W / 230 V = 3.5 A

Now, a fused circuit should normally be loaded to 80% capacity.  So on a dedicated circuit, you would need an 8 A or 4.5 A fuse.

But, usually circuits feed more than one outlet.  So you need to find out what else is being fed by the same fuse.  Most devices will have a sticker declaring the draw.  Add up the amps, add in your pump, and stay withing the 80% capacity limit.  If you go over, add another breaker/fuse and make it a dedicated circuit.  If amps aren't posted,   W/230 will give you the current draw.


Why cordless hammer drill possess such few markets in Europe?What's the difference between hammer drill and impact drill?

I can't tell you why a market does or doesn't adopt a tool, but I can tell you the difference:

A hammer drill has a device in it that provides lateral motion down the tool as if you had a regular drill and somebody was hitting the back of it with a hammer.

An impact driver is like having a that you smack with a hammer in the direction you want it turn.

A good link for this with a few more words: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/drills-vs-hammer-drills-vs-impact-drivers/


What type of air conditioner can bring in outside air?

What you're after is an HVAC system.  Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.

Excerpt from HVAC Wikipedia article:

  The three central functions of heating, ventilating, and
  air-conditioning are interrelated, especially with the need to provide
  thermal comfort and acceptable indoor air quality within reasonable
  installation, operation, and maintenance costs. HVAC systems can
  provide ventilation, reduce air infiltration, and maintain pressure
  relationships between spaces. The means of air delivery and removal
  from spaces is known as room air distribution.


Will batt insulation ignite if it is laying against my steam pipes?

Maximum temperature of a household steam system is all of 250F, so not even paper will ignite from contact with steam pipes in a house (15PSI) boiler system. High pressure steam is not found in houses (in modern times - early systems were very dangerous) unless they are in major violation of a lot of codes and safety standards that would be of far more concern than the insulation used.

"Batt" insulation is typically either fiberglass or mineral wool and thus not flammable anyway. Even cellulose (paper fibers) insulation is treated to reduce the threat of fire, and again, 250F will not ignite it anyway.


How far can I run a DC line to some LEDs

At 25A (300W @ 12V), the wiring is going to have to be fairly hefty.

Since the power supply does not have remote sensing, you'll just have to manually crank it up to compensate for the voltage drop in the wiring.

According to the datasheet, it can be set up to 13.2 V, which gives you 1.2 V of "headroom" for the wiring.

1.2V/25A = 48 mΩ total resistance.

2 strands of 40' = 80' total wire, so the wire can have a maximum of
48 mΩ/80' = 0.6 mΩ/ft of resistance.

Using copper wire, you'd have to use AWG8 to get to this level and deliver 12V to the fixture.


Even if you only use it at on/off extremes, it's still a dimmer switch.

Early "smart devices" like dimmer switches, motion sensors, etc. have a problem.  They need power to function themselves.  Normally that's gotten from the hot and neutral wires.  However these "smart devices" are meant to replace plain old switches, which are not powered (except by you) and do not need a neutral.   So to power themselves, they leak a small amount of power through the light bulb, even when they're off.  This works with old incandescent bulbs. It doesn't work with the power supply/driver circuits inside CFLs and LEDs, unless the drivers have some extra circuitry to allow for it.

The early dimmers work by pulsing the power to the lamp. Again this works great on incandescents.  But the switching power supply/drivers in CFL/LEDs see this as a power defect and automatically "correct for it", defeating dimming.  This is hard on the LED and hard on the dimmer. Dimming LEDs need special circuits to "reverse engineer" what the dimmer is doing and set an appropriate dim level on the LED.

One way to correct this is to stick one incandescent in among the LEDs. This will become the "preferred" path for that stray power the dimmer is leaking.  You might get away with the same trick using one dimmable LED.

So you have a dimmer, whether you like it or not.  It is leaking power through the bulbs and the non-dimmable LED bulbs do not like that.  You need to figure out what you want to do about either changing the dimmer switch to an on/off switch, or fitting it with compatible bulb(s).


Could this nothch in my sash been made by termites?

It is not termites, it is not carpenter bees. It has been there for some time since it has paint in the gouge. It looks like somebody cut on it while it was open, but can't tell for sure, the picture gets too fuzzy when it gets enlarged enough to show small details. Nevertheless, it has been there for sometime.


How do you accomplish equipotential bonding for an above ground polyester/PVC pool if the filter pump provided is not compatible?

The pump is a red herring
The pump has nothing to do with the equipotential bonding requirement.  So looking at the pump to help you is dead-end.
Your bonding effort should ignore the pump altogether.
Equipotential bonding is generally done to panels.
Equipotential bonding is just another phrase for the normal “grounding electrodes” that your house already has.  The requirement is that the pool have a separate set of grounding electrodes all its own, and those attach to the house’s grounding electrode system.
So that goes back to your main panel, or if you have a pool subpanel that is connected 4-wire (separate neutral and ground) to the main panel, then it goes there.
The purpose is to keep the earth around your pool from floating at a voltage above safety ground, as this would break/defeat the GFCI devices that protect your family.


Why has my ceiling fan's speed become slower?

Late response, but posting this for people that happen to google the problem... was probably a bad fan motor capacitor.  You can find a replacement for a few bucks on amazon.


Gravel inside concrete form or form on top of gravel?

The problem with just pouring a flat slab is the rock can migrate out if above grade. If this pad base will be at grade or below so the rock can not migrate it will be fine to leave it flat. If you are adding the rock on top of grade make it a monolith pour so the outside edge goes down to grade this also creates the footing I usually add.
If I think a Gazebo or a roof may be added I will create a small footing trench (an additional 4x4” deep/wide ) so the pad edge could support a small structure on the perimeter.
As a patio you are going well beyond what would be needed at 5” thick reenforced but I would still add a thicker perimeter edge just in case.
You don’t have to make the pad wider to do this just don’t fill the gravel all the way to the form to make the footing.


Can you skin over an existing roof deck that is breaking down?

It hard to say without seeing the structure but it sounds like the decking was under engineered for the weight of asphalt shingles to begin with. You could put the OSB overtop but by the time, you clean that surface up (pull nails, etc) and adhere the new surfaces together, you might as well strip it.

You're also leaving extra weight on the roof and if you are already feeling degradation between the rafters, you may ultimately end up with the same problem just thicker.

If you are going to go with asphalt, you might want to upgrade to at least 7/16th OSB depending on your rafter spacing.


What is the ideal fitting to reduce gas line diameter from 3/4" to 3/8"?

I would run 3/4 black pipe close to the dryer location (within 4 feet).  Then assemble a Tee with fittings to make a sediment trap, a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer,

a cutoff valve, and then this appliance connector.

A step up in appliance connectors is this one

which automatically cuts the flow (to a tiny trickle) if there is grossly excess gas flow as when the hose is disconnected or the appliance fails in some dramatic way.

Some might omit the sediment trap.


What adhesive or glue should I use to attach velcro to PVC pipe?

I don't have an adhesive suggestion for you, but you could use hose clamps. Put one on the top and one on the bottom of a rectangular section of velcro and clamp it onto the pipe. (Make sure to not over-tighten it.)

Actually, if you could work up a way to attach the fabric to the hose clamps and skip the velcro altogether, that would cut your hose clamp needs by half. They'd be around a buck at the hardware store.


Just my opinion: circular saw first (and build/buy yourself a guide fence for super-straight cuts); cordless jigsaw for rough parking lot work (can be a relatively low-end/cheap unit); tablesaw eventually.

There are cordless circular saws on the market now that are pretty darn powerful (look for anything 'brushless'), but they are stupid pricey and if you aren't using them regularly, you won't get good value out of an expensive battery that will die over time.


I suggest you look around the perimeter of the house paying special attention to areas where the foundation meets the sill.

Those nasty wasps or hornets will find a way in a small crack or joint of the sill and build nests under the floor joists, especially if you have ceilings in the basement level.  They will also get into the attic under an eave or vent.  During the day you will see them coming in and out if you watch carefully.

I encountered a massive nest in a flip house I was working on. Every morning there were a couple of dozen wasps flying around the kitchen and living room.  They were actually entering the living space around heat pipes in the floor and around wall electrical outlets. (If they were in the attic, they could enter the house through light fixtures.)  I used a stethoscope on the floor to track down the nest, hands and knees crawling across the floor, listening for the "BUZZ". After I isolated the area they were in, it took me days and multiple attacks of grenade type bombs (6 or 8) into the cavity between the ceiling and first floor and several cans (10) of foaming wasp spray shot directly into the outdoor entry point to finally get rid of them.

The piles of dead wasps just outside the entry point got bigger every day.  Thousands of them.  I eventually sprayed insulation foam in the entry point, sealed it and that seemed to end the problem.  Not sure if your infestation can be DIY treated, but if you look around, I bet you can find where they are coming and going in your house.


Do I need to re-sheath, wrap and side an old house just insulate it?

Ahhh...the good ‘ol days. We didn’t worry about much: 1) single top plate, 2) top plates not lapped at corners, 3) no headers in non-bearing walls, 4) no hold downs, 5) is that a floor above those ceiling joists? 6) that beam on the left with just a single stud under it probably doesn’t mean anything either.

If you live in a high wind area or a high seismic zone, you may want to put some clips on those ceiling/roof joists, add a hold down or two, check your anchor bolt sizes, etc.

You can’t follow the “prescriptive path” for energy compliance requirements with those 2x4’s. You’ll need 2x6’s or add some rigid wall insulation, extra ceiling insulation or install a super efficient heating system...all of which requires a ton of calculations.

BTW, do not install plastic sheeting vapor barrier on the inside of the walls, unless you live at the North Pole.

You’ll need to Solve some of these issues to get a Building Permit. You are getting a Building Permit, right?


Adding poly will be adding a second vapor barrier. The kraft paper is the first and the only one you need.

This is not part of your question but I  would be concerned about possible condensation on the metal siding, and controlling that, if you are in a climate where that occurs. In Maryland I never seen that as a problem with my shop that had a metal roof, but now I am in WA state and the condensation is so heavy, it is like it is raining inside our metal barn. The metal siding has it as bad, but it just runs down to the gravel floor, the framing is galvanized metal so that will not trouble me. The dripping sure does though. Learned something there.


Alternatives to adjusting strikeplate height?

Your instincts are right. Bumping out the lower hinge just a bit should raise the lock mechanism a bit and may allow it to properly engage the strikeplate. You also get the risk of messing with well functioning hinges. It may cause the door to self-swing (or even bind at the top or sides).

But the test is easy. Slightly loosen the lower hinge screws on the door. Slip a piece of cardboard or two between the hinge plate and the door. Tighten the screws. If all is well, you can leave the shims or replace them with a thin piece of wooden shim. If it doesn't work or causes other problems, reverse the fix.

If that doesn't solve the problem, you may be able to file down just enough of the lower edge of the strikeplate hole to allow the lock to engage. Newer strikeplates are fairly thin material and can be filed fairly easily.


Router table: bit positioning and guard?

Number 1 and 2 are one in the same, adjust the fence to achieve the final product look. Example: total round over is 1/2" then move your fence to 1/2" from the bit. You start with the bit setup to cut 1/8" and pass your stock through. Raise it another 1/8" and repeat, continue until you achieve the desired end look. If you are doing a dado in a piece of stock, then you adjust your fence to accommodate the spacing for the dado slot, again adjusting the bit up 1/8" each pass and running the stock through until desired depth.

Number 3, well that is a safety guard, some people remove it if it interferes with the thickness of stock being routed. Others remove it just to have it out of the way. However, it is designed to pop up as you push your stock through the table and over the bit. This will keep most of the dust and debris in that part of the table instead of all over you, in your face, eyes, nose, etc....

Now that that is said. Most people don't bother with the 1/8" cut per pass, rather they set it to the depth of the final pass and just go for it, especially when you are doing multiple pieces of stock and want them to match. Imagine just being a 1/16" off from one to another, may not be noticeable at first glance, but up close...you will notice.


What is the stainless steel baseboard in a walk-in cooler/freezer?

It looks like galvanized steel to me. It  probably came with the walk-in panels from the manufacturer.

You can get small pieces of galvanize steel at your home center,  I don’t know what application you are going to use it for but you could try looking in the roofing flashing department of the store for longer pieces.

Or  you can get any size  and Gauge you like at a steel supply house.


The switches common on the doors of microwaves are called "micro switches". Probably due to there small size. They are made to function so that when the switch is activated current flows (normally open 'N.O') or when switched no current flows (normally closed 'N.C'). The group that rates and test these switches is the Underwriters Laboratories. They establish how much voltage each switch is able to safely tolerate. These are the numbers you should try to match to the new switch. They are embossed on the switch in very minute detail. Usually something like: 5A 125-250V AC.


Is there a way to fix a polyurethane mistake?

There are almost no finishes that are totally colorless (although poly does have a slight yellow tinge, more than some other finishes). Also, most wood changes color over time with exposure to light and oxygen (typically getting darker).

Frankly 2 coats of polyurethane is only the bare minimum. Particularly if this is a kitchen or dining room table that will get a lot of wear, you will want it to be durable. (Maybe for a side table 2 coats would be OK). If this were my table I would say put a 3rd coat on it and leave it for a few months to see how you feel about it. It's not going to be any easier to strip & sand it now, so you might as well see how it ages.

If you do refinish, maybe try a water-based acrylic, that will be almost colorless. There are many sites online that compare the various types of wood finishes, e.g.: http://www.diynetwork.com/home-improvement/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer/index.html


How can I fix a bathtub refinishing debacle?

Acetone.  Acetone breaks it down into a consistency of Elmer's glue but very gooey.  Then I took a paint scraper razor blade and it peels similiar to latex paint but a little tougher. I'm not quit finished because I ran out of acetone.  Once off, I will have to see if I can get the tub to its original state. If not, I'll order Rustoleum online. I used it years ago, and it came out great! Homax should be called Homewreck.


Identifying the conductors in a light fixture

Generally, one of the three wires should be ground, one hot, and one neutral. You should be able to tell which is which by measuring the resistance from each to different parts of the chandelier using a voltmeter with a resistance scale. I'll assume that this chandelier uses standard screw-in bulbs.

First, a sanity check: none of the three wires should be connected to any other (i.e. there should be infinite resistance between any two of the wires).

The ground wire should be connected to the metal body of the chandelier. The hot wire should be connected to the button on the bottom of each lamp socket. The neutral wire should be connected to the threaded sleeve at the side of each lamp socket. (Here's an explanation of hot versus neutral in lamp sockets.)

Note: The chandelier may instead be wired with two hots and a neutral, with one hot going to a third of the bulbs and the other hot to the other two-thirds, giving an easy way to adjust brightness with a pair of switches. If you can't find a ground wire, you might check for this.

Having said all that, get the wiring wrong and you'll have a nice, suspended electrocution hazard. So, if you aren't confident you can figure this out correctly, and in particular if your test results don't make sense to you, do not let it slide; binning may be the way to go.


Any alternative to tar paper for roof damage from hurricane?

a product named tyvec woven paper and plastic sometimes used prior to shingles and siding. works well and not to expensive find at most lumber yards, the tar paper is mainly a vapor barrier as far as a small repair as yours i see no reason that a small plastic tarp wouldnt work as long as it is seal to the existing tarp using calking or liquid nails


Individually addressable LED Strip lights

OK, that site has really misled you in terms of wire sizes.  Wires have capacity based on amperes not watts.  That means a 14AWG cable can carry 3600W in a 240V circuit, but only 75W in a 5V circuit.   Both are 15A, which is the statutory maximum for 14AWG wire.  Similarly 12AWG maxes at 20A, and 10AWG maxes at 10A.  8AWG is 40A.

However, your limiting factor will actually be voltage drop.  Because there are microcontrollers in the strip, you need to - if I recall my TTL spec, it's +/- 5%, so 4.75-5.25V. That means you can only have 0.25V voltage drop combining all the voltage drops together, including the voltage drop along the strip itself.   Your drawings show feeding the strip in a lot of places.  That's the right idea.  With these cheap strips, assuming 0.10V drop down a 1m length of strip is hopeful, so you can tolerate 0.15V of additional drop in the distribution wires. And that's where you'll get nailed.

You need to carry 18A from the power supply to the first strip, 16 feet (except it's round-trip, so 32.)  Let's run the math a bit.

Try 12AWG wire. 0.0016 ohms per foot.  x 32 = 0.051 ohms = R.  I is 18.   E=IR  E (voltage drop) = 18A * 0.051 ohm = 0.92 V.  Good grief! That won't do!

OK, well suppose we do a 12AWG homerun from each strip to the supply.  I is 3.6.  E=IR 3.6A * 0.051 ohm = 0.184 V drop. gahhh, close enough.  You can bump it to 10AWG if you really want to.

How about busing with fatter wire?  Rather than iterate, let's work backwards, E is our max tolerable (0.15V), I is 18A. R becomes 0.00833 ohms. The most resistance we can accept is 0.00026 ohms per foot. You don't want to know what wire size that is, but its last name is "KCMil".

... and you thought you were going to use 16AWG... SMH the things you read on the Internet...  and this is why I said the 5V makes it much harder.  If this was 12V, you would not have learned the term "KCMil" today.

So

Q1:  Neither one.  Trying to run 18A or 36A down a single bus is doomed to failure, since power loss due to voltage drop is a second order of amperage.  The only thing that is not insane is a separate 12AWG homerun from each 1m strip back to the power supply.
Q2: 10 or 12 AWG depending on how voltage-drop-tolerant you are.  LOL 16 AWG LOL... I wish you had tried it, I would love to hear how it turned out.
Q3: In case you haven't figured this out by now, use the number of power supplies that lets you move the power supply as close as possible to the point of use.
Q3B: You are linking cheap Cheese power supplies, and it's a big mistake to try to run those anywhere near their nameplate rating. They're just not that well built.  If you were using GE supplies, different deal.
Q4: The control circuit looks reasonable though I might try branching that instead of a big long end-to-end. Don't make it a loop.
Q5: I would not parallel the power supplies.  That shouldn't be a problem if you do a separate homerun for each 1m strip.
Q6: If you don't parallel the power supplies, that should make backfeeding impossible, but in any case, don't allow it.
Q7: unless there's a signal propagation problem, I would want one central control unit, so one Arduino.  You might try having the Arduino on its own supply, or at least power it with a separate homerun.


Ground wire size for meter pedestal to subpanel

The grounding conductor is sized based on the largest ungrounded (hot) conductor. So if you have to use a larger ungrounded conductor due to distance, the grounding conductor will scale up as well.

8 AWG CU ground is good for up to 2 AWG CU ungrounded (hot) conductors (If I'm not mistaken).

250.122 is for sizing equipment grounding conductors. The ground wire running from the meter to the panel is not actually an equipment grounding conductor, it's actually serving as a grounding electrode conductor. Which means it should be sized based on 250.66.

You might want to ask your local building department, as they might allow you to use 8 AWG.  After all, I'm not a professional, so I could be interpreting the code incorrectly.


Is there such a thing as a vice on a stand?

There are stands that can be purchased off the shelf. A heavy duty grinder stand would work those are easy to find online an come in different strengths , I used some square tube steel for my large vice , purchased from a metal scrap yard at a big savings compared to purchasing a premade one or new steel cut to length.


Is the neutral outside of the plug dangerous while carrying current?

First of all, you cannot be sure that the stem is connected to the neutral wire and not to the live one unless you test it with a testing screwdriver, since alternating current is bidirectional.

Even if we consider it to be the neutral one you cannot trust that it is safe to touch. In ideal circumstances, where the neutral wire is very well grounded, it shouldn't have an electric potential. However, if there is any problem with the wiring or grounding, now or in the future, it could be dangerous, if touched.

I would suggest to cover it with some insulating tape.


What is the most important thing to look for when buying a used trailer frame?

You need to consider  how much it will weigh. When built. Will you need just one axle? Or more.  Look for rust, cracks along the frame.  Look for  anything that might be bent.


Why is there an arc when I pull a plug out of an outlet?

Whenever you have an appliance that is drawing current, and you pull the plug while it is in operation, you are going to draw an electrical arc. The voltage is high enough that current still wants to flow through the air to power the item.  This is not a good situation. Items that draw high amounts of current, ie; high wattage, should have an on/off switch in them to prevent this situation.  To some degree, it happens when you plug them in as well.

The effect is that you are burning the metal contacts in the outlets and the prongs of the plug.  As they become pitted and blackened, they do not conduct electricity as well, become highly resistive, thus creating heat and eventually will fail or burn up.  This is an unsafe condition.

The solution:  Make sure appliances are off before you plug them in or unplug them.  If you own an iron, then always set its temperature dial to 0 (zero) or "Off" before you plug it in or unplug it.  (Source:  Panasonic's "Important Safety Instructions" page).


How can I repair a large hole in an interior door?

To be honest, I would seriously consider replacing the door. Sometimes the "big" fix turns out to be the cheapest & easiest, particularly if the door is a typical indoor door and a standard size (or close enough that you can get a standard size door and trim it to fit).
However, one possibility that might work is a door reinforcer:

But (a) it will look a little out of place on a bedroom door and (b) I am a bit concerned about whether the lock will work effectively (and not just fall apart, or even worse, jam) because it is barely hanging on right now.


Removing clip that's securing rubber hose in washing machine

The existing clip has been crimped on with a crimping tool from the factory. To remove the clamp grip the end of the strap just below the notches and lift it up and back. The notches should bend up as you lift. If they don't pry them up with a slotted screwdriver.
replace with a common hose clamp of nominal size.


What's the best kind of caulk that doesn't dry out or become tacky enough to gather dirt?

You must first look inside yourself, Grasshopper.

When is the time that which is still soft no longer welcomes the new into its grasp.

Come to me when you have the answer, and we will find peace within you.

Others have found the answer in GE Silicone II or similar.

Look to the  enormous orange beast to find samples on those backed with cardstock.

All in a family are similar. Yet families have the great range in size and color.

Seek, and you will find that which can satisfy your emptiness.


You are quite correct about the thermodynamics. The heat involved in a phase change of water is so significant that professional HVAC guys specify the performance requirements for cooling as two different parameters: sensible and latent heat to be removed. The latter is the heat involved in phase change of water and is often more demanding than removing sensible heat.

"For example, in 1 kg of waste air at 20 °C with a relative humidity (RH) of 60%, the total energy is 42.5 kJ, more than half of which (22.5 kJ) is latent heat."

You can analyze your situation with a psychrometric chart like this:
http://www.truetex.com/psychrometric_chart.gif

Just pick your desired temperature and relative humidity and you can find out how much water exists as vapor under those conditions.


Why don't some LED lights work in my ceiling fan?

Because of the way LED lamps function they are often incompatible with incandescent lamps in the same fixture.  LEDs are small electronic components that work off of 3-5VDC, but are usually in series strings that take 12-24VDC. So in the base of each LED lamp, you have a printed circuit board called a "driver" that is basically an AC to DC power supply for the LEDs. Depending on the design of the LED string inside of the bulb, some types of drivers can be affected by being on the same circuit as incandescent lamps because the LED driver has a higher impedance than the incandescent filament.
So although I have seen several websites saying it's fine to mix them, that is incorrect, you should go all one way or all the other. In fact even if you have all LEDs, the drivers in each different brand are different and can be affected by each other, so it's best to use all of the same brand on a fixture.


I would say there is a clog in your line.  Is there anything stuck in the hole that jets out water (in the front, below waterline.


What is the difference between the filter on my furnace and an Air Exchanger?

Do you mean HRV/ERV? They won't help with allergens. In fact they are likely to make the situation worse. Their job is to bring in fresh air and pre condition it with the outgoing air. They do have filters but they are just to protect the exchange core. If your allergic reactions are due to pollen and the like an HRV will make it worse as the equipped filter is not a MERV rated filter. You would be better off installing a whole house HEPA unit.

Duct mount HEPA

Elecro-Air Five Seasons

I've installed lots of these. You would leave the furnace fan running constantly as well as the HEPA filter fan. There are much better options available from IQAir but they are very expensive.


Board on top of computer desk drawers blocking 2 cam locks because incorrectly installed upside down. Smashing and removing board cause instability?

Just rotating the cam locks should allow you to remove the top, they don't have to be pulled out to release the cam-lock post on the top.. You could use a thin slotted screwdriver to rotate them even though they are blocked from removal. Then take off the top and when you put it back together make sure you do not make the same mistake.


How do I get my fluorescent 4-tube under-cabinet lights to come on reliably?

It sounds like you may need to replace the ballast.  They do age and eventually do need to be replaced, though not nearly as frequently as the tubes themselves.


Since this is a foundation type S is a good choice. I think type M may also work but you need the high strength mix,  is the repair above grade or below?


What materials do I need to install pantry shelving?

Unsupported 1x12 over a 5' span will sag (even under its own weight).  As an alternative you could get some of these shelf tracks (~$2.25/track)

and some 12" brackets (~$1.30/brace)

and then lay your 1x12's on top to make the shelves.  This option also allows you to easily adjust the shelves up and down, to suit your needs.
If you want to make the shelves completely from wood (as you suggest), you'll need to beef up the design and add additional supports.


Electrician connected new water well to house panel, but confused about wire size in generator transfer switch?

If the 12AWG submersible pump wire is fine, then the 10AWG in the transfer switch is certainly fine too

A circuit's ampacity is set by the thinnest wire in the circuit.  As a result, since we know that there's 12AWG wire in the circuit (going downhole to the pump), the 10AWG wire between the house panel and the transfer switch is fine.


At least in the US, wood framing is far more common than metal in residential construction. And, I think, a lot easier for DIY construction. Certainly much easier when it comes to hanging cabinets and a lot of other little (and not-so-little) details.

If water is a problem with your wood frame construction then you have much more serious problems as your walls will be rotting, mold growing, etc. long before your wood frame gets damaged.


If you can run a small hose out the window, get one of these Little Giant pumps.

I have my AC in my basement and it dumps the condensate in there and then gets pumped out via small hose.  Works great.