Red alert! The breaker in position 6 is wrong!

Looking at your photos, somebody slapped a 30A breaker on your LIV/BED circuit in position 6.  I guarantee you that connects to a 14 or 12AWG wire, and the person "upped the breaker" because they are having trip problems.  Somehow the house hasn't burned down yet, but it's a disaster in the making. Turn that breaker off NOW and leave it off until an electrician can fix all this.

Survey

Start with surveying which outlets are on which breakers, and label each of your outlets for circuit identity and ampacity (15A or 20A - it's on the breaker).

The breaker positions are numbered in the panel, but you may want to avoid using position numbers since you'll surely be moving them around.  You could call them A, B, C, Thor, Daisy, Yondu, etc. Whatever.

A circuit can handle:

A 120V/15A circuit can handle 1440 watts continuous, and 1800W total for short time (<3 hours with a long cooldown period between peak runs).

A 120V/20A circuit can handle 1920 watts continuous, and 2400W for short time.

You cannot use circuits larger than 20A.

If you have 10 sockets on a 20A circuit, that's like having 10 checks and $1920 in your account.  If you spend your first two checks on $1200 servers, you're overdrawn even though you have 8 more checks.  You know this.

240V circuits can carry double the above.  We'll come back to that, but for now, 240/15A = 2880 continuous and 3600W max.   240/20A is 3840 continuous and 4800 max.

Your equipment

First, I know that EVGA power supply is in vogue. But we deal with it from a power perspective, and it's super impractical.  You don't need 850 frickin' watts unless you're rendering or mining bitcoin with dual 1080's and a stack of server grade drives.  Seriously.  But the power-side draw of the pig is 10A requiring you provision 1200 watts (inefficient!) Dump that pig unless you have a critical-path business need for it.

Now survey each piece of your equipment, it will have a nameplate rating in either VA, watts or amps - VA is the best number to use, otherwise use the larger of either input watts, or amps x 120.  Like the "850 watt" PS is 10A therefore 1200W.

Don't forget your other non-computing loads - survey the whole house, it's common for multiple bedrooms to share a circuit.

You know what to do now.  Spreadsheet it all out, and figure how to dispatch the loads you have to the circuits you have.  Obviously you will have a shortfall, but now you know how much.

Don't forget air conditioning. Every watt you consume becomes that many watts of heat in the building, which you will need to air-condition to remove, and it costs 1 watt of A/C to remove 2-3 watts of heat.

Thinking about 240V circuits

Your idea of splitting 240V into two 120V half-circuits is called an MWBC and it's too difficult to do given current codes.  But it's just as easy to wire two full circuits. (you couldn't have used existing /2 cable for an MWBC, so you'd have to pull a /3; well then pull a /2/2 (4+ground) or dual /2's and done.

You can also bring real 240V into a bedroom, and that can run on /2 cable.  However there must still be 120V outlets in all the usual places (within 6' of any point along a wall), so you can't re-task a 120V line unless it's an extra that isn't needed to meet the minimum service.

A 240V-only line can be run with /2 cable, but if you're in the walls you might as well pull /2/2.  Most of your equipment will already work directly on 240V. Read the spec, most has multi-voltage power supplies.

All of this involves pulling new wire through the walls.

You never, ever connect a 240V circuit to a common standard NEMA 5 receptacle.  They make NEMA 6 receptacles specifically for 240V (without neutral).  They also make NEMA 14 for hot-hot-neutral 4-wire connections, but those do not exist in 15 or 20A, so they are irrelevant to you.

Upping the panel

Changing a main panel is a huge and very expensive project for an electrician. Avoid if feasible, especially since GE Qline is a fine panel.  You do have far too few spaces, however, and the way to fix that is a subpanel.  And please, get lots and lots and lots of spaces - 40 is not excessive.

Then you put a decent size breaker in the main panel (e.g. 70A) to power the subpanel.  The subpanel doesn't need its own "main" breaker, but if it has one, it just needs to be same or bigger. (e.g. 40-space panels tend to have 225A mains, fine.)

If you have no empty space in the existing main panel for a fat 2-pole breaker, pick some small circuits whose wire length is favorable to moving them to the new subpanel; do so; and use the freed space for the new main breaker.

I would assume to put the new main panel right next to the existing main panel.  Depending on what's possible with moving otehr circuits over, right in the server room may be a good place.

Load planning for the entire house

Anytime you make changes like this, you should also survey all the loads for the entire house and make sure that adding circuits is reasonable and legal.  There are plenty of Q&A here and articles elsewhere on that.

The presence of a subpanel has nothing to do with it.  The main and subpanel loads are counted together to determine if the main panel has the capacity for what you need.  It's much more involved than adding up all the numbers on the breakers.

Separate to that, you also do a load survey on just the subpanel to make sure it isn't being overloaded.

Wait. You are rendering or mining bitcoin!??

Hoo boy. Start by seeking PC power supplies that are more than 70% efficient.  1200W for 850W is terrible.

Do your load planning based on your actual loads, and then when you wire it, install 2 circuits where you would've installed one - running 2 cables instead of 1 costs next to nothing, and it's in the walls for future use. But that's just more of what I talk about above.

Fair chance you'll need more service, and have that conversation with the power company.  Again you don't want to replace that main panel.  So fit your LARGE subpanel where new service can easily reach it - and at that point, flip it so the new panel is the main and the old panel is the 'sub.  That'll work just fine.

Air conditioning is HUGE.  Every watt turns into heat, in the room and you must remove it or the room will overheat and the CPUs can't cool.  A/C is not optional here.  Your whole-house A/C is not designed to remove that much heat from a single room. I have told bitcoiners who had an empty house to scatter servers all over the house, for that reason (also power).  However there's a better way.

Use water cooling, and ship the hot water outside.  These guys here did exactly that, because they had the same problem: five max'd out rigs in one room and the house A/C couldn't deal.  It was very effective.  But they made blunders:

They did not insulation-wrap their supply and return pipes.
Being a "review site", they are obliged to use the free stuff manufacturers send them, that's why they spooged together their radiator. They should've gone to an auto junkyard and bought an SUV radiator, with electric cooling fans, thermostat and relay. Which is way more than they'll ever need, and is made to go outside.
They mounted the radiator in direct sun.

(and by "water" I mean 50/50 propylene glycol, a more rarely-made automotive antifreeze. You will have leaks, and propylene glycol, being basically a foodstuff, is nontoxic and no worse than a Mountain Dew spill. Common automotive ethylene glycol antifreeze is the wrong stuff, it's used because its cheeaper, but it is both toxic and sweet-tasting, so it will kill your pets.


I know this is late responding but a 100 watt light is just that, 100 watts so you can plug in 60 100 watt light bulbs or try a combination of easier things like a 1500 watt hair dryer and a 1500 watt toaster over etc.  Thinks that have heating elemets are the biggest and most accurate.


What kinds of contractors deal with basement/foundation flooding/leaks?

Just for future readers, I ended up bringing in structural engineers who found my basement wall was bowing from the stress of the soil outside the house (becomming water-logged, freezing, expanding, etc.). This was also the cause of the vertical crack/fissure that opened up, which was my chief complaint in the original question above.

The solution they sold me on was to bring in 5 heavy-duty steel I-beams and anchor them between the basement floor and the rafters above. $2700 after everything.


Do I need to use cripple studs if header is tight to the top plate?

No crippling required in cases where there is no room for them


How does a Thermal Release Device (TRD) work?

Either expansion/pop or fusible link melt are the two methods used. Fire sprinkler heads also use these devices.

The melting method is usually two pieces of metal joined by a calibrated alloy similar to solder that has a specific temperature where the pieces of metal debond allowing the safety mechanism to trip.

Expansion usually is a capsule filled with a liquid that's calibrated to burst at a set temperature allowing the safety mechanism to trip.

In fire sprinklers, the safety mechanism is allowing the seal to blow and water to flow. In furnaces, fuel flow cut, in this water heater, a damper to cut off air supply.

Here's a link to a safety bulletin (Rheem/Ruud)

Visually, it's pretty self-explanatory in the sequence below. Bulb pops, spring jumps out of the way and pin on spring loaded damper no longer is obstructed from allowing damper plate to seal combustion chamber.


Do I need to install cement backer board on the wall above a tile shower surround?

Alaska man's suggestion is a good one. However, it's not necessary to use anything other than drywall above your tile in my opinion.

Also, it's common to leave the drywall slightly below the top edge of the tile so that the joint between the backer board and drywall gets covered, saving finishing time.

Use high quality primer and paint. This assumes that you have adequate ventilation and are using it appropriately.


Installing GFCI into a box that feeds two other outlets

You are correct the number of wires for box fill is limited by code. I would be feeding the GFCI on the line side and pigtail the load with #12 wire. You are kind of stuck with what you have it’s going to be a tight fit hopefully it is a deep box. I have replaced boxes that were two small with old work boxes and in some cases used a 4 square box with a single device mud ring, this provides the most room but requires a bit of Sheetrock work to close it back up. Each box has the cubic inches allowed stamped on it. To calculate how much you need it’s 2.25 for #12 wire, we only count 1 ground the 3 hot,  the 3 neutrals is 7 a 2x for the the receptacle 9  plus if the box has clamps another for a grand total of 10 x 2.25  so the box would need to be 22.5 cu inches to meet code. Hope that helps I believe this is the reason they say no more because standard boxes are not that large and a GFCI device is larger than most receptacles but the same full calculation is used.


What is the easiest way to replace an existing backsplash?

Look on the right side of your picture.  You can tell the granite and fake stucco finish is layered on the drywall.

First you will not get drywall or backboard to adhere permanently to granite so it has to go or you have to use it.

Personally I would keep the granite.  Then I would scrape off all of the stucco.  It might sound like a pain in the ass but its not a HUGE project - 3 or 4 hours.  Then you might have to do some minor repairs to it.  If anything I would just take this stuff off in chunks and skimcoat the area afterwards.

You don't need backerboard unless you want to put up a heavier stone.  Drywall is fine.  Just scratch it up good before hand.  Throw down some tile that fits in with the granite.  I would use thinset instead of mastic so that I can level out any wall issues as I go.

If you keep the stucco and put something over it you are going to have some really odd edges and it just won't look right.


Concrete. Does depend on the structure being able to support it. Quite common in commercial roofing, though.

I don't think fiberglass (which is glass fibers in a plastic matrix) nor plastic wood would qualify as non-combustible. Both burn quite well, with a horrible stench.


Heat tape/line is often used as a bandaid for improper installation of the pipes to begin with. There certainly are situations where it makes the most sense, but in general, if you're below the frost line and inside insulated areas, the pipe should be fine.

Think of it this way: if your power goes out for enough time, the pipe will freeze anyways, and if it bursts, you still have a major problem.

If the pipe is not buried deep enough, then you can either put it deeper, or add rigid foam on top and sides to help insulate it.

In a basement or crawlspace, it's better to insulate that space and make it suitable for running pipes, than to mask the problem with heat-tape (and get another thing that can fail).

In my experience, the heat line products that go inside the pipe seem to work much better. These work best when you also insulate around the pipe itself.

Often people put timers or thermostats on basic heat line due to the energy they use: these are both problematic. Timers don't regulate according to temperature, and thermostats measure the temperature of where the thermostat (or sensor) is, not the actual water. This is not so important with 6' tape, but definitely is with 10 or 100' runs.

There are products that are self-regulating: you give them constant power, and all throughout the line, if it's cold enough, the line (in the spot that's cold) will turn on and heat up. These use a lot less power, and are much more reliable (no timer/thermostat to fail).

As far as installation, it's fairly simple, but there are some important notes:

Install on a GFCI-protected circuit
Make sure the electrical receptacle, plugs, extension cords, etc are not in a place where they can be submerged in water (I have seem them in well pits outside)
Not all heat line cannot be cut: For these, you have to order it in exact length
Becareful not to damage the line during installation, as for many lines if they're cut or the contacts are broken the whole thing is garbage. This means: don't nick it, don't bend too sharply, don't crush/pinch it, etc.


Breakers are meant to be replaced.  Once it is pulled free from the rails inside the box there should be no electric power on those wires.  But it sounds like the box itself will still be live.

If there are no screws then most likely you will find a small slot right next to where the wires are pushed into the breaker.  Use a small screwdriver in there to push the internal retainer clip back to release the wires.  The wires themselves are probably cut and stripped correctly already.

Once the wires are inserted into the new breaker it should just click into place inside the panel.

btw, there definitely is a main breaker somewhere.  Usually the fire department will want to be able to cut off all power before they begin to spray water inside, so it is supposed to be in a location they can find quickly in an emergency.

If your incoming service is underground then the main breaker might be in a box at the sidewalk, in which case you may not have access to it - sometimes the boxes are green with a key-lock on them, and often they serve as main feeds to more than one home.

When working near the live rails, remember the electrician's left-hand rule:  Keep your left hand behind your back.   That way if there is an accidental discharge it will go through a limb and not through your heart.

If you have successfully gotten the breaker out without touching the rails then you should have no trouble getting the new one back in after the wires are transferred over.

--Edited based on your comment


2015 Samsung Refrigerator/Freezer keeps tripping circuit

With current code garages are required to have all 120v receptacles GFCI protected. This has been code for a few cycles. I have seen several things in fridges and freezers cause gfci’s to trip from fan motors to crankcase heaters and the motor winding insulation being etched from acidic refrigerant in the system ( moisture causes the oil to become acidic this eats the varnish off the motor windings causing leakage to ground thus causing a GFCI breaker to trip).
If it is a standard non GFCI or AFCI breaker the crank case heater  if it has one would be my first check, then I would use a meter called a megger a high voltage ohm meter on the compressor and fan motors to check their insulation. One additional part that can cause problems is the starting capacitor , it when bad will usually trip on start up of the compressor. If you look at the capacitor and it is bulging at the ends that are usually square could be the cause also. A bit more information would be helpful like the comments above ask for but there are problems including those I mention and a possible breaker going bad could be the issue.


What is the right way to extend a furnace intake pipe under a brick patio?

I do not think extending it under the patio is "the right way" to do it.

If rerouting it from the source up through the house is not an option then -

I would put a 90∘ elbow on it and run it up the  exterior wall a bit. Build a chase around it (box it in to keep it from getting crushed or damaged), similar to the one under patio.

The elbows have male and female ends, the male end should go into the existing pipe, but you will not be able to get screws in it so adhesive will have to do. Add another elbow and a screen.

Put a tilted cap on the new chase long enough for rainwater to drain off without getting sucked into the intake (similar to the the one in your photo of the final vent.) You could build a little removable wall shelve/table over it for your patio living space.

Putting it under the patio seems like an expensive way to ensure more expense and problems down the road.


What is the proper name for a solid French Door?

From http://architecturaltrust.org:

Double Doors
Two adjacent doors that share the same door frame, and between which there is no separating vertical member. Double doors are often referred to as “French doors”, due to their preponderance in French architecture.


Power everywhere after turning off the main circuit breaker

It's possible the panel you have illustrated is one of several such panels serving power into the unit, so you may need to do an exhaustive search for any others.

It complicates things if this building has more than one unit.   Wiring to the other units could be still energized obviously... And this could create false readings on test equipment (capacitive coupling) -- or there could be actual cross-connection between the units, so your unit might not be fully de-energized unless others are too.

Cross-connection could be a load in your unit served out of their circuit... Or even a neutral cross, where their load is served from their panel, but it uses the neutral on your panel, and if you sever that neutral wire which has current flowing through it, the upstream side will be energized to 230V.

A lot of testers are complete junk, or are not made for house wiring and need some skill to successfully apply.

A common night light is surprisingly useful.   It is simple, honest and  not particularly reliable, which means you must check and double-check it. I honestly find them more useful than 3-lamp testers, though those are OK for a final check for new outlets.

Plain old analog voltmeters with the moving needle are useful.

Digital voltmeters (DVM) are useful but a little tricky.  They are so sensitive they can pick up micro-currents from capacitive coupling, which happens when a dead wire runs physically parallel to a still-energized wire. So you have a DVM a reading of 109 volts on a 120V circuit that you thought was turned off - plug a night-light in, and the voltage mysteriously disappears.

If the electricity is powerful enough to illuminate any light, even an indicator light -- that's not capacitive coupling, that's genuine power.


Broken Hot Water Circulating Pump - Shouldn't I still have hot water in showers eventually?

Pressure from the cold side is higher than from the hot side, so cold water is backfeeding through the circulator and on to the hot side to the faucets in use.  Close the shutoffs you have for the circulator and the problem should go away.


A steam type humidifier is installed is this fashion.  The steam does not need the extra air flow.  The water type will only work marginally without the duct work.


Correct way to remove a red wire from a circuit

Cap each end with a wire nut and leave it in its junction box.

Do not trim away the ends of the wires. That could confuse a future maintainer, and someone might find a use for that wire someday.

If you maintain infrastructure documentation on your home, add a note describing the abandoned wire.

If you do not maintain infrastructure documentation on your home, start now. Begin with a note describing the abandoned wire.


After fixing the leak, you might want to try bleach.  I had luck with 25 percent bleach in water.  I put a sponge, saturated with the solution, in a plastic tray and pressed it up onto the ceiling.  The stain returned in a few months and so I did it again...it is now gone.  You could try a small test area to see if it will work.
Bleach is nasty stuff.  Take precautions.


If this is soldered copper slip joint fittings there really is no other choice other than cutting out the faulty parts and starting over.

Sometimes when undertaking a repair like this it can be advantageous to incorporate a UNION fitting into the line to permit the last connections to be joined together. A union fitting looks like this.

When assembling the union into the piping system do not forget to slide the brass nut part onto the pipe before soldering the unthreaded coupling part onto the pipe end.


Regardless of the wood species boards warp for several reasons. Primarily it's when a difference in moisture loss (or gain) occurs at different areas of the lumber. Grain direction also effects movement.
If your boards have been out of the elements for 8 years and have remained straight then they should remain so. I would be more concerned about the boards decaying at this point. Unless they are protected from rain and sunlight they will decay from fungus, termites and U.V damage.
Place them several inches off the ground with 2 x 4's (stickers ?) spaced about every 3 feet. Stack the boards tightly together (if dry) and than cover with an exterior tarp.
8 years is a lot of time for lumber to remain unscathed from the elements. They should be protected or used.


Should I staple faced insulation batts to the face of the stud or the side?

Attach to the stud face.  The vapor barrier is not as effective if stapled to the stud sides.  And as you say, the fill won't be ideal.  (are your external walls 2x4 or 2x6?)  The paper on the fiberglass is the vapor barrier.  And a barrier is definitely needed where you live.  Optionally, you can use unfaced insulation and a plastic sheet vapor barrier.  I've done lots of sheetrock over insulation and the insulation is not the problem with popped screws.  It can cover and hide forgotten screws/nails/bumps which will cause problems.  One bonus is when there is a couple layers of paper between the sheetrock and studs, it can cut down on noise/vibration conduction through the walls.


You're going to have to take a look inside the furnace, where you should find the control board where all these wires terminate. Each terminal on the control board should be labeled, so just make a list of letters and colors. Then go back to the thermostat, and use the list to connect the wires to the proper terminals.

If you post the make and model (model number would also help) of the furnace, or a quality picture of the furnace wiring diagram (should be printed on the inside of the access panel), somebody may be able to offer a better answer.


should i mount a tv on top of gas logs fireplace

I say no.  THat TV is full of PC boards.  Printed circuitry hates heat.  Good quality computers have a half dozen cooling fans.


Can I put wallpaper on top of wallpaper on the ceiling?

I would not paper over paper. In your case there is already a big chance that you have compromised the adhesion of the existing paper to the subsurface when the ceiling was exposed to the steam. Also to be considered is that the existing paper may not be a good surface to hold wall paper glue.

So I suggest getting the steamer back and removing the old ceiling paper too. Before putting on new paper make sure to seal the wall surface properly. The staining of the previous ceiling paper due to the steam could be an indicator that previous sealing was never done or has failed with age.


It sounds like you want to keep using the existing holes, which by now are quite stripped and loose.

As mentioned in the comments, for a shelf you almost certainly want to fasten it to studs.  However it is possible (though not advisable) to have a shallow, light shelf supported by drywall.

So if you are unwilling to mount to studs, consider using heavier-duty Toggle bolts as they stronger are not affected by a warn-out drywall hole.  The bolts you linked are one of the weaker kinds and seem to rely on a snug fit.  There are even more advanced versions, like the Snaptoggle that boast impressive strength, but most people remain skeptical about those claims.

No matter what fastener you are using, you are ultimately limited by the strength of your drywall.  Thicker drywall is stronger, but all drywall will age and weaken over time.  A shelf that feels sturdy to begin with may weigh on the drywall and cause it to sag over 10 - 20 years.  Environmental factors such as the amount of vibration (from minor Earthquakes or from heavy truck or train traffic near by) will affect the rate of deterioration.


Can a wood-router be used to cut a shallow groove in concrete?

This method or running wire is common or standard in parts of Europe/UK.
But the specialized tools to do it are saws, not routers. There are stone-cutting router bits seen in countertop work that might work, but likely far less efficient than using a saw.
There's an older post here someplace that showed a saw for the exact job from Germany...


What can cause 3-way switches to go bad? 3 quit working in about 2 months

Were all three of those switches installed with poke in wire terminations?

If so then that is likely the root cause of the problem. Move the wires to the screw terminals on the new replacement switches. In the cases where there are more than one wire in the set of poke in holes for a given connection those poke in connections should be replaced with a twist on wire connector to join the wires and an added pigtail that then goes to the switch screw.

Another possibility is that the builder used the absolutely cheapest possible switches. With high usage such cheap switches do not last forever.


That's the way it has been done for centuries, if not close to it...Adaptations of using wood forms help in waterproofing issues or if there is no concern of freezing, and an over dig, (digging a larger area out, beyond the foundation line for certain purposes) that may aid in waterproofing, drainage or what-have-you.


Is wiring a motion sensor switch with 18 AWG wire on a 20 amp circuit innapprorpiate?

You are good to go. The NEC does not regulate manufactured equipment. In the US they are regulated primarily by UL, NEMA, and NFPA.  In you case the motion sensor is what will regulate your connected load. In other words, it will probably burn up before the wiring is damaged.

Good luck and stay safe.


Best way to air seal, vapor seal, and insulate exterior wall in old house?

Provided you don't have knob-and-tube wiring, this one is easy. Remove the vinyl siding, cut holes through the EPS foam and the sheathing at the top of each stud bay, and inject dense-packed cellulose into the empty stud bays. Should be pretty cheap and help a ton. I wouldn't use retrofit-style non-expanding foam. It'll be more expensive, highly flammable, and some people have allergic reactions to it once it's installed. Then add as much additional EPS foam over the existing stuff as you want. XPS foam, Polyiso foam, or rigid mineral wool will also do fine. Then install 3/4" thick vertical furring strips (usually 1x3s) over that exterior insulation to form a drainage channel (important since you're in a rainy climate), and then nail your new siding of choice to the furring strips.

If you do have knob-and-tube wiring, you need to keep the stud bays empty until you have it entirely replaced with modern cable.


Toilet bowl fills very slowly unless the shut off valve is turned off and then on again

Some fill valves turn the water down if they detect a leak, sounds like yours is malfunctioning, that or scale, rust, gravel sticking in the valve. Some can be cleaned by turning the water off removing the top of the valve and turning the water on just a little. Putting a cup on top of the valve allows a higher water pressure. If the fill doesn't improve a replacement will be needed. Not all fill valves can be cleaned.


How is garbage disposal installation different in a sink without an existing disposal?

Most installation kits will come with the replacement sink basket that the disposer will mount to.  You'll need plumber's putty to seal the basket as you install it.  Typically it is just a nut or snap ring.

Some of the drain pipes will need to be rearranged to connect to the offset outlet on the disposer.  This is basic plumbing, and with patience an a few trips to a hardware store can generally be done.  Do not permanently remove the waste trap.  The work can difficult without experience, consult a good book on plumbing or hire a licensed plumber.  You will also need electrical power and a switch for the unit, which may require a licensed electrician.

Also sewer districts have been making rulings about the use of disposers in their jurisdictions.  Some encourage their use, most are starting to discourage or ban units.


Investigate the push tite replacement flange

It may be that the rubber gasket will form a seal below the damaged portion of your waste pipe. If it slides into the pipe and seats against the floor you can anchor it to the subfloor and you're back in business.

To see a variety of parts made for your kind of trouble look here


Is the feed cable a metal-sheathed (aka BX) cable? If so, the metal sheathing is likely providing a ground even if there are only two wires (hot and neutral) inside the cable.

It's also possible that the metal ductwork attached to your furnace is grounded at some point. This might be done in a reliable, intentional way, or it may just be that it comes into contact with some metal pipes somewhere.

I think it's unlikely that the concrete floor is providing such a reliable ground, and it's definitely not the way you want to do it -- the whole point of having a ground conductor is to provide a lower-resistance path to ground than the one that goes through your fingers to the floor you're standing on.

In any case, there ought to be a ground conductor to the metal housing of your furnace. The best way to achieve this would be through any cables feeding electricity to your furnace, but you may also be able to add a dedicated ground wire. I'd recommend checking your local building code to ensure any change you make is compliant -- things get complicated when you're dealing with HVAC and basements. Good luck!


Juicer's food pusher's bottom just sliced off, now it's an empty cylinder

If buying the new one is not a viable option for you, then without knowing the exact type of plastic used in the old one, the only "food safe" multi-purpose adhesives will be either a silicone seal type, which is soft and flexible, so may not work under force, or a two part epoxy type hard bond material. That will take longer to cure, but will likely do the job and is what I would recommend.

This is just an example, not an endorsement, although Permabond is a well known company with a decent reputation.
https://www.permabond.com/2015/03/02/food-grade-adhesives-permabond/

It's worth noting however that the likelihood of your finding the Food Safe versions in a local hardware store are low, and the cost is going to be roughly the same as buying the new pusher on-line. So were it me, I would just replace it.


Can you paint Dow THERMAX WHITE FINISH INSULATION?

Thermax is rated for fire exposure and those particular boards are intended for interior finished space, so yes, you can paint the boards instead of covering them in drywall. However, I'm not sure the result will be very aesthetically pleasing or durable if this is going to be a finished residential space, which, based on your previous question, I'm guessing it is. But it should work.


Circuit breakers trip on overcurrent, including too many devices. A low level fault to ground may not pass enough current to trip a regular circuit breaker.
A GFCI device compares the current on the hot and neutral, if not equal it breaks the circuit. It does this by running both wires through the same current transformer (donut), if the current is equal the magnetic fields cancel each other, and no current is detected by the current transformer. Current flowing a 150% of circuit breaker rating should trip the circuit breaker, but if the outgoing and returning current were the same no magnetic field would be detected by the current transformer and the GFCI would not trip.


possible cause for the water heater being unable to be lighted

There are one user failure and 2 equipment fails that usually contribute to non lighting water heaters"

User

Not pressing down the pilot button long enough.  After lighting the pilot flame initially, you must hold down the pilot button long enough (30 seconds) to allow the thermocouple (a detector of heat, which sents its signal to the main gas valve) to heat up enough.

Equipment

Thermocouple is broken or misadjusted so that the pilot flame dosen't heat it.
Main gas valve broken.  This must be replaced as there are no 'user serviceable parts' inside.


How can I extend this outdoor signal cable with waterproof?

They make weatherproof aluminum junction boxes such as a Bell or Red Dot, with matching blank lid.  To avoid box penetrations, their mounting screws attach to "ears" that attach to the outside of the box.   The holes are threaded, as for pipe.

To enter a cable into such a box, take a specimen of your cable (or its measurements) to a proper electrical supply house (which is not anything like an electronics supply house), and get a weatherproof strain-relief cord connector for it.  This has a rubber grommet that will compress to seal.

Now if you have cut back your cables too much to fit the junction boxes available, you may need to use two junction boxes, and splice some additional wire between them.  You can optionally connect them with threaded pipe instead of having to buy two more strain reliefs.


Wallpaper on the ceiling, damage to the drywall, what now?

Stubborn wallpaper is almost always easier fixed by either rip and replace drywall (allows you to fix anything else while you have access) or drywall over (have to extend or move any penetrations of the ceiling.
8-10 hours already spent for a 25 foot square patch - could have been done already if you ripped and replaced, IME.


special primer to use after skim coasting horsehair plaster

In my opinion, you did not need to concern yourself with the priming the wall before skimming the whole wall. Priming a wall before pointing up (touching up) a wall is typically done so when the wall is sanded, the pointing up is the only thing that gets sanded. The primer will endure a bit of sanding, so care is used on that step. That was for informational purposes, does not apply to what you are doing here. I am going on the premise that the whole wall was skim coated. BUT, if your wall was simply pointed up to cover cracks in the plaster, since it is plaster and another assumption will be made that it has a "white coat" finish, the white coat is already strong enough to withstand a bit of sanding too. At least what it would take to smooth the skim coat of drywall mud.

On to the answer, finally.

You can use a regular primer, or you can use a special primer if you want. Also in my humble opinion there are places primer should be used, painting metal or wood for example. That is critical for adhesion of the final protective coat. For walls it is more important to get the dust off the walls from sanding than using a primer. I heard a long time ago that latex paint was self priming. In my experience, when it comes to new work, I usually apply a primer coat. On existing walls that were already painted I did not prime, just painted the color coat, two if needed to cover, giving thought to the self primer notion. On my remodel of my home, I had a lot of paint from other projects left over and used regular paint that was close to the color of the finish I wanted as a primer, although it was not primer paint.

This was probably more than you wanted to know but I was on the subject anyway....


Replacing cabinet hinges but plates don't have matching screws

Well, I have used two solutions in this situation:

open up the holes in the metal hinge as you suggest - quick and easy,

I have, with time available and planning, filled the larger holes in the wood with pegs or matchsticks that are glued in. Once dry re-drill the pilot holes and works well.


What is the correct tool to unscrew this mixer tap nut?

There are a number of spanner wrenches that you can use. If you're replacing the cartridge, you can probably pick up a cheap wrench where you purchased the cartridge or at a plumbing supply store.

I usually just get a piece of bar stock and place the end in the groove and gently tap it with a hammer ccw.


The only reading you need to do is NEC Article 210. Specifically Article 210.21(B) (1) which states that if there is only one receptacle on a 20A circuit it must be 20A. Also 210.21(B)(3) and Table 210.21(B)(2) which tell you you can use 15A receptacles on multiple outlet 20A circuits.

Hope this helps.


Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.

In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.

Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.

In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.

Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."


Do I need to retrofit a junction box when replacing a vanity light?

The question depends entirely on whether the fixture acts as its own junction box, with full containment and a strain relief clamp. If it includes a UL listed enclosure, all good. The instructions should make this fairly clear.

If not, grab an old work (remodeler) box and pop it in. Be sure you'll clear your studs before you start cutting drywall.


Regrouting countertop/backspash joint - masking tape to simplify cleanup?

Actually, I think that's a great idea, and I'd tape both faces. I'd then apply a very small bead and tool (finger) it out once. Then I'd pull the tape and tool it again. You're likely to have a few spots where you apply too much caulk, and it'll come off with the tape. Your second tooling will remove the tape lines.


1) Higher is better than lower--BUT you do not want to go too much higher. Given the relatively tight (and odd) 6% tolerance on the original, you would not want to exceed 58uF with the replacement cap. The ESR on the replacement cap should be very close to the spec of the original. (56uF is a std value, 55uF is not).

The following is a good reference: https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Motor_Capacitor_Selection.php

I have never seen a tolerance of +/- 6% before.

However, the identical replacement cap you seek is available here for ~$26.

https://www.amazon.com/Capacitor-Round-volt-Z97F9042-97F9042/dp/B005DST0V4

It is spec'd at 42-55uF-- which is ~47uF +/-20%. You may find cheaper sources elsewhere.

2) Tolerance and uF values are completely independent. You can obtain std cap values with Typical tolerances are +/- 1, 5, 10, 20%.


How do I wire a switch to a fixture that is served by wires in an iron pipe?

Do not cut the pipe. It may not be electric but water or gas (it looks like it may be black which is standard for gas).

A much simple approach is to drop a new line from the box behind the current sconce. This box obviously has one always on circuit. You can tap into this to run another circuit down the wall to a new outlet.  You also can add a pair of wires between the hot lead to the current light and a switch mid wall.

This requires using wiring that meets both local code and any restrictions your building may impose. In many jurisdictions this is non-metalic cable, but check.

If there are no hollows in the concrete (there would be if it were concrete block rather than solid concrete), you will need to cut a channel in the concrete to do this.

An alternative is to use surface mounted metal raceways and boxes, such as these.

Your inquiry suggests that you have very little experience with this type of project. Working alongside someone with more experience is highly desirable whn learing to work with electricty. I would urge an experienced helper, or turn to a pro.


Engineered hardwood over uneven basement subfloor?

I would be looking at getting some self leveling mortar/ concrete mix and at the very least, filling in those voids. Your sub floor needs to be securely fastened to the concrete floor which means it will "sink" in where the voids are and that will show when the new wood floor is installed. If you avoid fastening the sub floor into the voids hoping to just go over them, you'll feel the depression and hear a squishing sound every time you walk over it. The smoother and leveler your floor is, the better your new flooring will look and hold up. Good luck.


Start from a corner. Studs are usually placed 16" or 24" apart, so measure 16", look for a stud there, then try again at 24" if you fail.

Alternately, look for an outlet. These are generally attached directly to a stud, so there should be a line of nails directly to one side or the other. If you have an outlet near a corner, you can measure the distance to see what stud spacing you have.

Once you know exactly where to look, the magnet technique works better, though you really need a rare-earth magnet for that to work well. (If you have a good ear for sound, you can also try knocking on the wall. A stud will sound different than a wall cavity.)

EDIT: two more points:

1) I just tried this with a refrigerator magnet, and it doesn't work at all. You really need a real magnet.

2) There's usually a nail a bit over 4' off the ground, because that's a comfortable height for a standard-height adult to aim for.


Why aren't Geothermal heat pumps more common?

The technology is relatively young, and not as well known to consumers as traditional heating and cooling methods.  The upfront costs of a geothermal system are also higher, and there are fewer companies around with the knowledge and tools to install the systems.

In the US most homes are not built by the home owners, they are built by development companies who buy large plots of land and build as many homes as cheaply as they can on them.  When they build these homes most of the products they use are "Contractor grade" (meaning cheap), so that the companies can make the maximum profit.  Because of this, the builders typically will not choose a geothermal system over a more common HVAC system if the cost of the geothermal system is higher.

As for municipalities controlling a geothermal system, again this comes down to dollars and cents.  If you were building a new city from the ground up this might make sense, but to retrofit a system like this would cost billions of dollars.

Hopefully as the "Green" movement marches on, geothermal and other "alternative" power sources will become more popular.  And as they become more popular they will become cheaper, and the cheaper they get the more attractive they will look to average home owners and home builders.


Drywall installation when ceiling joists lower at the edge

No. That's in no way going to yield a satisfactory result for the reason you mentioned.
By now you realize that you should've examined the framing before you began hanging drywall. You have two options:

Pull down part of the drywall and install shims on the joists approaching the beam to blend into it, creating a downslope in the ceiling. You could reduce the amount of the slope by using some 1/4" drywall under the beam itself and setting your other drywall flush with that.
Pull down all the drywall and shim the entire area down flush with the beam.


How low should I drill holes in my sump pump basin? Should I drill them at the bottom?

Generally you want the holes at the bottom.  This allows you to remove the maximum amount of water from under your slab or foundation.  You will not pump out the entire ground water supply as it takes a finite amount of time for ground water to move toward a low-pressure area.
So your sump pump will create a "dip" in the ground water level around the sump but that's what you want to happen.


Cheap LED bulbs use a capacitor dropper circuit to step down the AC mains voltage to something more suitable for running LEDs -- the dropper capacitor used in them is often not a fully mains-rated type and thus vulnerable to being damaged by surges and spikes -- the resulting damage causes a loss of capacitance and would explain why your LED bulbs only glow dimly.


How can I best physically box in my internet router

You also need to make sure the device(s) get convection air for cooling.

I have one of those Ikea bookshelves that has a lot of squares and open backs.  The router is on one shelf, all the cables behind, boxed in by self-contained trays (so they don't lean in and block its airflow).  It's not trivial but not hard to pull the router out to get to the cables.  No one would play there by accident.

Wood, paper and plastic attenuate the signal only a little.


It's normal for floorboards to have cuts in them as getting boards long enough for the entire span is impractical or would be more costly.  Shorter boards are commonly used so you will have joints.

However, the joints are normally level and both sides of the board should be supported.  A joint should only be made on top of a joist so that both sides are properly supported.  In your case it seems like the top half doesn't have the proper support.  Perhaps the joint missed the underlying joist and the builder was too lazy to fix it properly or maybe some extra bracing has come loose.

The fix is going to be to remove the board on top and add some bracing underneath it.  It should be pretty straightforward to screw a block of bracing to the nearby joist.  If the joist is more than 1" away, you may just want to remove the top and bottom board and trim them properly do the joint is centered on the joist or replace the boards if trimming them would make them too short.


How to insulate sloped top of concrete block foundation?

I've had an almost exact scenario.

you basically have 3 options
1) spray foam the entire system. Expensive for small areas.
2) 1-2 inch foam board that's cut out exactly. tuck tape the seams to the joists/ceiling. This would be a pain to mitre. (I don't think they're meant for this)
3) batt insulation with 6ml vapor barrier over, then tuck tape the seams to joists/ceiling.

Each have pro's cons. spray will be best seal. Batt insulation would be easiest to cut/work with and seal.


Is there a way to know if my garage door is open remotely?

If you're into DIY;
you could easily create a setup with arduino, you can check if the door is open with infrared distance sensor or a magnetic switch.
Or you could just create a circuit that is closed when the door is closed and feed that information into an arduino?

http://www.robotshop.com/blog/en/arduino-5-minute-tutorials-lesson-4-ir-distance-sensor-push-button-2-3637
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/13769/how-can-i-detect-if-a-garage-door-is-opened-or-closed#13771


As far as using the existing feeds to power a sub panel, no you can't. You can't parallel cables that small. The good news is, depending on the size of your conduit, you could pull some THHN in it, after removing the 2-12/2 cables. This could feed a sub panel and then you could reroute your two 120 Volt circuits into the sub panel and also add your 240 Volt outlet.


What is the best way to dissolve tape that won't peel off?


What is best product for stripping paint from wood?

I've had better luck with strppers if you cover it with plastic food wrap after applying it. Be aware that some strippers will disolve the plastic so test a sample first,if it disolves the plastic try it with wax paper. The idea is to keep the solvents from evaporating before the paint has softened. Any latex paint should peel off easily. If you have oil based under it scuff it with some sandpaper and reapply the stripper.The sanding seems to break the "shell" and allow the stripper to penetrate. As DAO1 mentioned be cautious of lead. Avoid using a heat gun and allow for plenty of vetilation.


Is this half mask suitable for spray painting?

The 3M half mask, as long as it fits well (and you don't have a beard or other impediments) should be fine. My rough translation of the German link indicates that the filter is for organic vapors, so those are perfect for spraying. You can usually find pre-filters that go on the OV cartridges that'll slow the clogging process.

Caveat: there are probably some harmful solvents that aren't adequately covered by the OV mask. If you are using something non-typical, check with the manufacturer.

edit to reflect new information:

Beards are a problem, as a poor seal isn't protecting you. You might need to shave, or look at 'positive pressure respirator' masks.

A useful guide to various chemicals can be found on 3Ms website: respirator selection guide (Chemicals start at page 15. It's noteworthy that many of your listed chemicals cause short filter life, and propane won't be filtered by the OV unit.)


How can I waterproof my mail box (post catcher)?

Screw the mail slot shut and mount a conventional key locking weather tight mail box to the door.


Can I use plastic as moisture barrier under fiber cement siding?

The moisture barrier would generally go between the furring strips and the concrete and would be attached to the wall simply by attaching the furring strips to the concrete. If you wanted to really seal the area you could run a bead of adhesive sealant between the moisture barrier and the wood.

6mil plastic is a "vapor" barrier, not a "moisture" barrier. The difference is that a moisture barrier allows air to permeate it but prevents liquid water from going through. A vapor barrier prevents water AND air being transmitted through it. Moisture barrier is used between porous materials like concrete and wood to allow the various materials to acclimate to changing temperature and humidity without exchanging liquid water (the concrete will absorb a lot of liquid water from the ground, and then pass it into the wood which is a sponge for water, which will cause the wood to rot). If vapor barrier is used, moisture will be trapped on either side of the barrier, which can cause puddles of condensation on the moister and/or warmer side of the barrier.

So, to answer your question, you should probably use a product like Tyvek or TyPar, or an older material like roofing felt, between the furring strips and the concrete. For an installation like this, you can just cut strips of the barrier to prevent direct contact between the materials, and then simply place them behind the furring strips as you attach the strips to the wall.


PEX Pipes running along Ceiling on Inside Wall

As long as it's oxygen-barrier PEX (red often is) then it should be just fine for baseboard heating. The reddish hue on your ceiling is odd, but I have a hunch it's just light reflecting off of the red pipe.

Not putting it inside the walls is being a bit cheap, but, then again, there's some argument for making pipes easily accessible too. If you want to cover them, one option may be to get some crown moulding to put over it.

As for insulation, there's no need for that as long as the pipe is on the conditioned side of the wall (as yours is).


Sanded Grout in Stone Tile Floor Keeps Disintegrating

I suppose another way to determine subfloor setup, is if you have a transition to another floor. You could look there. But I suspect the subfloor is not thick enough, allowing the tile to move, causing the grout to crumble. You could try a non-sanded grout, or a siliconized grout.


What are your recommendations for bedroom recessed lights in a step ceiling?

In general I think you are better off having too much light versus too little. If you plan using 50w bulbs, and it turns out to be too much, you can always use lower wattage bulbs or a dimmer.

Be sure to take into account the reflector type of the bulb as this will dictate how much the light spreads.

I disagree with Justin K because if you have too few lights, you start to get shadows and dark spots and assuming you're already at the max wattage, there is nothing you can do to improve the situation other than install more cans.


Sounds like you should just get a transformer to transform your 240v main to whatever the LED drivers are looking for.  Without more detail, I'm not sure what the LED's are designed to take in.

It sounds like your LED drivers are going to convert a less-then-240 voltage AC feed down to the couple of volts DC that the LEDs are going to use.  Since you are putting these under cabinets, you could mount the transformer up and out of the way where you couldn't see it.

I'd look at one of the online electronic parts suppliers (like DigiKey or Jameco) to find the transformer you will need.  You shouldn't have to get to big of one since you are only powering LEDs.


How to effectively fire a contractor and avoid liens or other legal issues

If you're concerned perhaps you could draw up a fairly tight contract which included quality metrics and a schedule of work.

Then if things aren't up to standard you could terminate due to breach of contract.

The big drawback with this is getting someone to sign up to such a document in the first place.


You've already started in the right direction by testing the outlets and the breaker. You have verified that there is power, you just need to continue to isolate the problem. There are two common things that might be wrong. First test the outlets not working if you haven't already hot to neutral and hot to ground. You may have a loose neutral also.

Next you need to find the other outlets and junction boxes on that same circuit. You can do this by turning off the breaker and finding all of the outlets not working under this scenario. Try and mentally visualize the outlet closest to the outlets not working. You are looking for a loose, burnt or broken connection in the boxes prior to the outage. See picture for clarification.

Do you see what I am trying to get at? If you do find the problem and while you have the boxes open you might as well go ahead and pigtail the outlets. That way you only have one outlet stop working and that will make it easier to locate. See picture.

Good Luck.


How complicated is it to convert a hinged two door closet to a sliding doors?

There is a wide range of standard mounting kits for sliding doors, many of which can be purchased in home centers such as one of these:

The sets come with a track, trolleys for the doors and attaching hardware.  Some come with trim strips that may or not work in your configuration. Stock trim cam be used instead.

These systems are designed to be attached to standard doors.  There is no reason you could not use the existing doors unless they are way beyond standard weight (unlikely). You will likely need to cut 3/4 to 1+ inch from the doors, preferably from the bottom. You also will need to remove the handle and hinge hardware and fill the gaps left behind.

You can choose from a variety of options, depending on how heavy duty a setup you want (pick commercial grade if you want stronger), and how you want to place and face the track. It can easily be hidden behind your own trim work once the track is hung and the doors are in place.

It isn't hard to do, but requires some care in leveling, and an extra pair of hands helps in mounting the doors.


What is the working load limit of a 18-foot 4x6 pine beam?

Assuming it’s “Lodgepole Pine” (Idaho Pine and Ponderosa Pine is slightly less) and it’s grade is a No. 2 and better (no loose or missing knotholes), then a 4x6 spanning 18’ will support about 105 lbs. loaded at the mid-span (slightly higher if it’s loaded at third points or further from the center point).


Is it possible to run an Antminer S9 on a 250v NEMA 10-30?

There are only 2 ways to hook this power supply up.

120V line (either line) to neutral.  This would use the standard, common  NEMA 5-15 connector, you know the one.
240V line to line. (akin to using only +12 and -12 for a 24V load).  Neutral is not used on this configuration, it doesn't even need to be wired to the receptacle. The proper connector is NEMA 6. This power supply will give 1600W of power on this config.

Equipment safety ground is not comparable to electronics GND. Code requires it today, and it does two things for you: helps fight ESD, and helps prevent electrocutions.  A GFCI/RCD actually does a better job of the latter, but does nothing for ESD.

Getting a ground

This is such a super good idea I assume you'll find a way.   Open up the box and look at the cable.

If the neutral is a bare wire or bunch of bare strands surrounding the conductors, permanently reassign it to be ground instead of neutral.  Neutral and ground are tied in the main panel... but if it's a sub-panel, move the bare wire from the neutral bus to the ground bus.  This is one-way; converting it back to neutral violates code.

If the neutral is a white wire, look and see if there's not already a ground wire in there. In 1993, maybe.  Otherwise Code now permits you to retrofit a ground wire, minimum #10 size, green or bare, via any workable route back to the panel.  Enter via a knockout and use a proper cable clamp.  #10 to be compatible with future dryer use, so you don't fail inspection when you sell the home.

You can never retrofit neutral.

Wiring it up if only this plugs in here

Keeping in mind it will hurt your resale value if you can't roll it back to a dryer outlet.

Get a NEMA 6-15 dual receptacle, correct box lid and cover plate.  Attach hot1, hot2 and ground to it. The dual sockets are for code compliance or a second server.

You must also change the 30A breaker to a 20A breaker.  Normally socket amperage must match the breaker (hence not 30A) but there is a special exception for 15A sockets that makes multiples of them legal on a 20A breaker.

Yup, same form-factor.  This a dual 6-15.

If the dryer needs to function too

You must have neutral and ground.  Change the receptacle and dryer cord to NEMA 14-30, which will make your family safer too.   Remember to remove the neutral-ground tie on the dryer.

Several options.

Ask the Code geeks on diy.se whether you can really put a 30A plug on a 1600W server.  I don't think you can.  If you can't...
Install a subpanel.  Get at least an 8-space subpanel rated 30A or more, no "main" breaker required.  One 30A 2-pole breaker goes to a NEMA 14-30 for the dryer, wired with #10 wire.  A 20A 2-pole goes to the NEMA 6-15 dual as described above, wired with #12. The rest are for expansion, as you can put up to 24A continuous on this panel.  (Continuous loads count as 125% of their actual measured draw.)
connect a UL-listed PDU that is rated for 30A or more.  It must be installed according to its instructions, but fit a NEMA 6-30 or 14-30 plug if that is allowed.

If you want to use an L6-30, same deal as 6-30, the "L" means twist-lock.   Ditto L14-30.


Assuming you are in the USA:

1: First you need to find out if your Dryer Outlet is a 3 Wire type or a 4 wire type!

If it has 3 wires - you will have a hot a neutral and a Hot - that is it. Check inside the box to be sure - DO NOT GO BY THE OUTLET BOX TYPE. People do crazy things - VERIFY IT PHYSICALLY (open it up and look at it) and ELECTRICALLY - measure it.

2: Find out if you are running 208VAC or 230VAC to that DRYER. Depending on if you are in an Apartment or in a House - determines this.
While this should not be a pop issue - it will change the performance of the dryer although running a 208V dryer on a 230 Volt circuit can present some problems (your dryer manual should specify). When Vice versa - there is no real issue.

3: Given that you have a tingling on your washing machine - is it when you touch between washer and dryer or just touching the washing machine?

4: When I used my multimeter to test ground-to-hot [G-H of WHAT ?? and where the OUTLET or on the washer / dryer ??] I was only getting 8v. [ You have something not right - G-H = 110/120VAC, ] [ Ground to Neutral - if this reads 8V - something is not right here because that should be less than 1 vac], Neutral - Hot = 110/120VAC.

While the below images show how to connect a range they go for dryers as well - just refer to your owners manual for correct details.
You will notice the Ground to Neutral Strap on the 3 Wire Hook up - it is not there in a 4 wire connection scenario.

[This is why the case can become powered in a 3 wire arrangement -  and why they moved away from this to a 4 wire arrangement a real ground.]


Is it safe to mix LEDs and incandescents in a chandelier?

The flicker is likely because your dimmer is indeed incompatible with LEDs -- it was designed to drive electronic low-voltage "transformers" used with 12V (typically halogen or low-voltage LED) lighting systems.  Switching to a dimmer made for CFL/LED or incandescent/halogen service should cure it.


2-way switches and LED Light glowing faintly when both switches turned 'on'

Possibility #1:  These are not normal switches.  These have some sort of active (powered) function, such as glowing handle, dimmer, motion sensor, smart switch of some kind, etc.  They power themselves via the old "leak a little current through the incandescent bulb, it won't care" strategy, which does not play well with any modern bulb.   The solution is visit the electrical supply and get two basic switches.

Possibility #2 (less likely IMO): There is something broken in how the circuit is wired.  There are right ways and wrong ways to wire 2-ways (or as we call them in the US, 3-ways). You may want to pop covers off lamp and switches and double check everything against the "proper" diagrams you'll find on the web. In doing this, pay attention to function moreso than wire color.  It doesn't matter which color you use for which function, as long as the functions are hooked up correctly.


Bad idea overall to mount a TV up high over a fireplace. Just do a search here and you will find many answers discouraging this for a multitude of reasons. Key among the reasons is based upon the fact the best viewing of a TV is pretty much straight onto its screen. In addition, for your physical health the best viewing position is sitting and looking straight ahead rather than trying to stare up at an angle.
I have heard folks say that they have regretted ever having hung a TV up over a fireplace. Do yourself a favor and get a TV console with an inbuilt mount post at the back to which you can attach your tilt TV bracket. Enjoy the convenience of being able to move the whole thing around when a decision is made to reorganize the room layout, change furniture or you are sick of the TV location. You will also be glad you did not do a big disfigurement of the faux veneer around your fireplace unit.


Elbow grease™ can be found in the Shake a Leg store.


Cut 3/4 inches over each stud. (Oscillating multitool is the best for this, but patience and a utility knife will suffice.)

Screw new drywall on. You could use a thin bit of plywood at the top horizontal seam to stiffen it up. Screw the old drywall as well. (Be careful about the power wires.) Tape and skim the seams. Caulk the joint between the baseboard and drywall. (Texture? I can't tell from the pic.) Paint.


Pigtail off before kitchen 20A GFCI for Cabinet Lighting?

No.  A circuit which supplies kitchen countertop receptacles can ONLY serve:

Receptacles located in the kitchen or dining area
A clock on the wall (remember those)
Auxiliary electrical loads in a gas powered oven/range

Even if your installation is grandfathered, you're not allowed to make a grandfathered installation worse than it already is.

However, kitchen receptacle circuits can certainly serve receptacles in the kitchen under or near a cabinet.  Are you sure that low-voltage LED lighting doesn't come with some sort of power supply that plugs in?


How to permanently secure shelves for built-ins

I took a quick look at the assembly instructions. If you wanted the shelves permanently attached the time to do this was while assembling the cabinet. Instead of using the shelf pins you would use wooden dowels as you did with the non-adjustable shelves.

One issue is that the adjustable shelves are going to be slightly shorter than the permanent shelves because they have to leave room to be inserted as well as room to accommodate the thickness of the shelf pins so you'd need to fill in the gap as well.

At this point I think your best bet is to just use the included shelf pins. Particleboard doesn't hold screws well. If you want to immobilize the shelves you can add a couple of pocket screws on either side of the shelf to lock it in place. A Kreg mini pocket hole jig is affordable and easy to use. I've found multiple uses for mine. If you do a lot of DIY projects you might want to look at some of their more versatile projects because pocket screw joinery helps with a lot of things. Check out my post of which Kreg Jig to buy. They also make plugs to fill in the pocket holes that can be sanded and painted.

I wouldn't recommend just using pocket screws because as I said particle board doesn't hold screws well. The shelf pins should give you better support but the screws will prevent someone lifting off the shelf.

Personally though, I would just use the pins and let gravity do it's job keeping the shelves in place. If the weight of items on the shelves causes the particleboard to break or you want to replace them at a later point because the particleboard has started to bow under the weight it's easier if their just on the pins.


Your roof is much to shallow (about 2/12) for asphalt shingles which need about a 4/12 pitch.  You need to tear those off and replace with with a membrane or "torch down" roof surface, or possible standing seam steel.

If it's been leaking for any length of time, expect to replace decking, and possibly rafters as well due to rot.


What is this wire clamped between my cold and hot water pipes?

It is a ground cable. It completes the ground between the hot and cold water pipes.

The ground path through the water heater might not be complete. This cable will make sure there is a ground path between hot and cold water pipes.


These are normally glued in position. I have seen silicon sealer work when held in place until fully cured , I have seen epoxy used and any leaks fixes with sealer. The toughest part cleaning any and all residue prior to glueing back in place. The next hardest part is holding in place long enough to fully cure.


You may be able to rent an ozone generator, or hire an odor remediation contractor with one. Those are used to nullify various odors by generating highly reactive ozone (O3 rather than O2) which aggressively oxidizes whatever it encounters before naturally decaying (if it can't find anything else to react with, 2 O3 can get together to make 3 O2.)
Ozone is not healthy for people to breathe, so follow all safety precautions if using an ozone generator, but they are a highly effective way of neutralizing odors.


How difficult would it be to convert a regular US-style shower faucet into a thermostat faucet?

It already is that.

That's what that handle is.  Depending on the type of valve, it is either

a thermostatic control that you rotate left/right to the desired set temperature (no choice of flow), or
a joystick, in which left/right is thermostatic control, and in/out are flow control.  Rather like a Delta faucet.

Build like a Victorian

The knotty problem of backside access to a tub faucet is one the Victorian-era builders were well familiar with.  It was "on their watch" that indoor plumbing leapt to popularity.  They had a clever solution: Put a cabinet door on the backside of the faucet.  In my house I can trivially access the tub-faucet backside.  It's trimmed like a perfectly civilized cabinet door, and provides full access to valve backside, trap, and supply plumbing.  Changing the tub faucet, drain lever or trap is a 20 minute job, and yer done.

A more cunning installation might put a bookcase there with a removable back, for instance.


Without a photo I am guessing that the switches are stacked in a single gang box in this case there are 2 witches on 1 yoke, of side by side they would be in a double gang box and be 2 separate switches. It is possible the switch or the wire connection failed, I usually check by spinning the fan and turning the switch on if it keeps going it is usually the fan start capacitor that has failed.


Should I cover area where ceiling once was?

There is no reason to be demoing this more than a day before it needs to be done.  Demoing the ceiling is a 1 hour job.  If they plan on running new electric and you will be demoing it is normal to cut out parts of the ceiling to make your runs - even big parts.  We would simply screw the drywall back in where we cut it out with 4-5 screws - doesn't need to be perfect.

Also you should cut out a 2'x2' hole, dump drywall and insulation in large trash bag.  Then get in attic and throw all of the insulation in the area in that hole - with a helper this is 20 mins.  This will give electrician room and view to do what they need to do.  Or you could just move insulation to other parts of attic.  But get it out of the way either way before starting to cut drywall as cleaning that up out of everywhere is a waste of time - and if your house is finished it gets everywhere.

So you can in effect have the bathroom cut into 4-5 small sections - effectively demoing it while leaving just the drywall up - just pop out the drywall over the screws using something flat and strong.  Yes it will have holes in it and not be optimal but you can still get it back up there.  You don't need to buy some special tarp for this.  Or you can just take it down an hour before they get there.

Notes:

There is nothing wrong with putting a TV antenna in attic like that.  If it works it works.  There is absolutely nothing ghetto about this.
From your picture there doesn't look to be any significant "shoddy wiring" going on.  If you are paying for "shoddy wiring" to be fixed I hope it is a real issue, not just electrician telling you it could be better.  But I have seen plenty of attics with "shoddy wiring", this looks pretty tame/clean.
There is no indication that the insulation in the picture contains asbestos.  It looks like your run of the mill fiberglass blown in insulation from the 60s/early 70s.
However while you are at it I would beef up your insulation.  Right now you probably are below minimum for your area.


Electricians have debated this for a long time with no decisive winner, so it's a safe bet there's no right or wrong answer, both ways have merit.  But the layout you propose is fine.
Some decide based on cost considerations.  Some like the additional power available per room.
Some think it's bad for the lights to go out when someone trips a breaker with a plug in device, since they may have to navigate in the dark to go reset the breaker.
Some like the idea that you can put the smoke detectors on the lighting circuit and if that circuit trips the breaker for any reason, you'll know because the lights won't work.
I prefer the arrangement you propose, a 20A circuit per room for lights and receptacles, with 15A receptacles.  My favorite reason is space heaters, in my opinion that's what settles it.
Very few homes have heating that separates every room on its own thermostat.  There are not many families where everyone is comfortable at the same temperature.  Therefore, sometimes people use space heaters.
Electricians hate space heaters, and tell homeowners they should not use them, because they mess up their plans to put a lot of space on a single circuit.  In my opinion, this is the tail wagging the dog, the homeowner isn't supposed to worry about what the electrician would want in their home.  The electrician's design should anticipate the homeowner's demand.
One other suggestion along these lines.  Even if you're not going to install a ceiling fan right now, provide for it with your wiring.  It's a difficult retrofit but it's only a little extra effort and expense now to set up for a ceiling fan later.  Electricians also hate ceiling fans, but some homeowners love them.


Heat is an option, just note that if the valve seats with any kind of polymer/rubber seals you'll likely destroy them.  In my experience, heat is never gentle if it's going to be effective.

I'd go for heat first (like acetylene-hot, not that weak propane/mapp hot), but be VERY ready to have to go out and replace the whole valve.

From looking at your picture, I'd cut above the 90 degree bend and sweat in a new bend and valve. After all, you're going to want to open and shut the valve at some point in the future, if you deal with it now, you'll be thankful later.


If you are correct about where power is coming in at (a bit more likely than not, but you'll need to test it or open up the box the middle cable goes to if you want to be sure), then the black wire in the middle cable carries power onward to some other thing that is not switched (like another set of light switches, or some receptacle or outlet somewhere, maybe a smoke detector?).  If power is indeed coming in on the black wire in the middle cable (somewhat less likely), then the left cable is going off to another non-switched thing.


Why would turning on/off hot water when the toilet is flushing cause the tankless pressure relief valve to release water?

Whenever a valve opens and closes, it causes a pressure spike.  This is because water is incompressible, so it tends to telegraph pressure spikes a long distance.

Water has mass.  When you open a valve, the water has to start to move.  That causes a local low pressure area which of course is what makes the water move.

When you close a valve, a significant mass of water (in the pipe) is moving toward the open valve. The water at the valve must stop, but the water behind it is still moving toward it.  So it is compressed. All the water's kinetic energy is converted to pressure, in a millisecond. The water moving toward the open valve seeks any possible outlet for the kinetic energy.

It finds the pressure relief valve in the water heater.

If it hadn't found that, it could break a pipe.

A related problem is when it finds an expansion tank on the other side of the water heater, or some comparable "place for the pressure to go". Thus the pressure is relieved by water moving through the water heater.   The tankless sees this water movement, and turns on.

In a city water system, the obvious place this pressure can go is back out to the street - where it can be absorbed by the massive city water piping.  This is rendered impossible if a check valve (aka backflow preventer) is added to the system.

An expansion tank is designed to create an outlet for such energy.


Is my doorknob handleset installed correctly?

There is always a little difference where the strike catches and the deadbolt hits the edge of the keeper. If there wasn't, the deadbolt would be difficult to latch. The weatherstripping needs to be compressed when the latch sets into the strike allowing the room needed to let the deadbolt engage easily. When the latch is depressed, and the door releases the little bit that it does, the weatherstripping should still be compressed enough to do its job.

FWIW, the odds of a limb hitting the thumb latch and creating a problem by doing so is very improbable, in my opinion.


Why would the cold feed be backfeeding hot on a hot water heater?

It is possible that the 1 water heater is pressurizing the line and using the other water heater like an expansion tank. I have seen homes that did not have check valves or pressure regulators have this problem when the water heater heated it pushed the excess pressure back so the inlet would get warm. I believe there was also a post where this cost the home owner because the water meter doesent count back flow but with the water heater heating and cooling and no other water usage the post said it increased there water bill until a regulator or check valve was installed.


What should be done about this concrete retaining wall?

You have several issues: 1) Diagonal cracks, 2) Deadman movement, 3) Tree root stress, 4) Fence movement, 5) Water buildup behind wall.

1) Diagonal cracks are an indication of wall stress load failure. That is to say, the wall is failing because of an excessive load on the wall and a lack of reinforcement in the concrete wall to resist the load. (Vertical cracks are an indication of temperature or expansion failure...which is much easier to fix.)

2) Most alarming is the fact that the steel plates with the steel rod and bolt is called a deadman and it’s failing too. Evidently a deadman was installed in at least two locations (that I can see) to help hold the top of the wall from tipping over. If you look close, you can see a gap (space) between the steel plate and the concrete wall. This is an indication that the deadman has failed. Perhaps the rod has come loose from the deadman. The deadman is doing nothing.

3) Yes, probably most of the “load” on the wall is from the tree.  Of course as the tree grows it spreads out and “pushes” on the wall. However, as the tree sways from the wind, the tree roots “push” on the wall too. The tree needs to go...

4) Any movement from the fence will add stress to the wall too...similar to the tree in Item 3) , above.

5) water is heavy and puts tremendous stress on a wall if it’s not collected and drained away...especially in a climate like where you live. When you have many inches of rain in a short period time the subterranean water doesn’t have a chance to dissipate. When it builds up against the wall, that’s a lot of stress.

I don’t know of a way to save the wall. It will continue moving until it falls. You could slow the failure by removing and killing the tree. However, be careful when the tree falls, it could put a huge thrust on the wall.

BTW, I wish I had a Bronco to go 4-wheeling...


This is a total hack job.

It's super cheap, but not even that; there are places money was spent unnecessarily.  But the workmanship is a punch-drunk disaster.  No one did any research nor asked for any help.  The installation is actually dangerous, and could set the tiny-home on fire from an unrelated electrical problem in the facility it's plugged into, even.

Just to breeze you through what's wrong with the panel: #12 on a 30A circuit, no ground bar, lugs double-tapped, missing entry clamp, double-stuff breaker where AFCI may be required, no provision for solar, way too small panel (cannot meet NEC minimums for circuit count).  And if it's outdoors: indoor box outdoors, NM cable outdoors,  outdoor clamp needed (they don't allow 2 cables), entering a box from the top unnecessarily.

Multi-sourcing and solar

My first thought was that there are four kinds of RV hookups: common 120V/15A (you know the one), trailer TT30 120V/30A, NEMA 14-30 (240V/30A) and NEMA 14-50 (240V/50A) which you see on the big RVs built on bus frames. And then you've got solar on top of that.

And first I thought, "let's get you a line/gen transfer switch".  But then I realized those are quite large. Even one that's integral to the panel (like Siemens') does not switch neutral, which is an absolute requirement here!

So what I want instead is to mount a 14-50 inlet (or 14-30 if you are sure you'll never need more than 30A). Right next to that, a tiny compartment where you can stow a short cable with a 14-50 socket on the end.  To run in solar mode, you unplug from shorepower, open this compartment, and plug the socket into the inlet.  If you're super sharp, you recess all this so you can leave it in while towing.

If your shore power isn't 14-50, you stock a variety of adapters. Most are readily available at RV shops, or a steady hand can make them.

The service panel

That thing actually is a service panel, it's so tiny that it's hard to recognize as one.   It won't do.   It's a $19.99 Home Depot cheapie, and the worst brand they sell (I think).  We're going to spend more like $100 on a proper panel.  Panel size is a factor, so we prefer dense panels in smaller sizes.  That makes Eaton CH or Square D QO contenders (yes, Square D again, but this time their industrial line) since they pack full breaker functionality in 3/4 the space.  (GE Qline goes too far, their 1/2 height breakers can't perform essential functions, other than that it's a fine panel if you use their fullsize breakers.)

As far as spaces, what worries me is that an inspector could come by and require you to have the NEC minimum number of circuits - and also, a few circuits are just a good idea.  The former builder used a "double-stuff" breaker to cram 2 circuits into 1 breaker space. Don't count on that, because that inspector may require you use AFCI or GFCI breakers - and those do not exist in double-stuff.

Using the service panel to separate solar loads

You may want to automatically disconnect non-essential loads while on solar.   And now is the time to be thinking about it, because there's a clever way to do this for free, right now while we are designing the panel.    You see, North American power comes in two 120V "legs".  The legs are normally just for more power.  They aren't normally assigned different tasks, but they could be.   Read my Q&A on double-stuffs, which talks a great deal about how panels are separated into two poles.

So layout your panel so the L1 pole serves loads you do want on solar, and the L2 pole serves loads you don't want on solar.  It's important you don't install any 240V loads at all, and avoid using an archaic wiring method called MWBC aka shared-neutral.

After that, the cable I mentioned? You wire up the inverter as 120V, and only connect L1 in the socket.


PLC-Lighting Control-Plug n Play Operation with Relay

That wiring diagram looks fine.

The system was already designed with your requirements in mind. The relay controls the light but it also listens to the input from the old switch, which is on the bottom left in your diagram.

It appears the best place to put this module is in the ceiling rose, given that all the wires it needs are already there.


A few options, in no particular order:

Drill pilot hole first

Take the batten off the wall, drill pilot hole, replace. Then you can use whatever size screw is necessary.

Use a flexible drill shaft

These plug into an existing drill and let you get into tight places.

Use double-sided tape or adhesive

Not as strong, but depending on the application may be an easy way to accomplish the goal of preventing shelves from coming out

Use an angle bracket

Use a couple small angle brackets to drill into the bottom of the shelf.


Why do many construction projects leave so many nails behind?

Yes it is typical, but a conscientious contractor will pick them up with a magnet or not let them drop to begin with. Sadly, from my experience, not many workers do. Cost of the nails versus the time needed to pick them up, it is cheaper to leave them.

I would call and let the contractor know you are not content with the nails everywhere, see if any action is taken.


How can I prepare this natural gas line so I can connect a grill?

You would first turn off the gas at the meter. Then, if this pipe extending from the wall is indeed a gas line, you would take off the cap, clean the threads well, install suitable thread sealer made specifically for gas lines and install an appropriate gas shutoff valve. Install the grill gas connection down flow from this new valve using adapter fittings if necessary.

Then in case you ever need to disconnect the grill for winter, cleaning, replacement, moving or whatever else you can shut off this added valve without having to turn off all the gas in the house.

If you ever do disconnect the grill from the valve it would be necessary to cap off the open valve end for safety sake --- just in case someone comes along and accidentally turns on the valve.


Can I turn the water off at the street to work on my plumbing?

I shut mine off at the entrance to the house, rather than the street.  The hot water tank has some elasticity to it, so it will hold a little "pressure" but that will bleed off with a faucet open.  If you wish and are able, you can drain down the system by opening a faucet that is lower in elevation than the one you are going to repair.  This is usually not necessary.

A couple of tips.  Slowly reapply pressure, not just in case what you fixed is leaking, but also so that the hot water tank doesn't get a rapid change in pressure.  Also you might want to put the hot water tank on pilot, rather than ON, while doing your work.  You do not need to drain the tank.  If it is above the faucet you are going to repair, it may be necessary to turn the water off on the tank. Usually this is not necessary. (Example of when it is: You are fixing a faucet in the basement, and it is located below the top of the hot water tank.  In that case, you need to close the valve out of the tank.  But you do not have to drain it.)

Slowly open the faucet after you apply water pressure, so that any air is bled out without hard slugs of water causing hydraulic banging in your pipes. If you leave a faucet open, you may end up with splatter on walls and floors from water and air coming out of the faucet when you first turn on the water.

Good luck with your repair.


Two switches in same box, on different circuits

Yes, it is.

As long as other requirements for wiring at met, there is no problem with two circuits (or 3, or 4!) in a box.

Consider, in fact, that code requires this for dishwasher and disposal installs today: Split the bridge on a receptacle and wire each outlet to a different circuit.


How can I make it easier to get to the sprinkler valves in the future?

I would definitely go with the bigger valve box. Also, think about using the compression repair sleeves. It makes the repairs and replacements so much easier and you can use them over and over. Good luck./


What lubricant, if any, should be used for clothes dryer rollers?

Grease or nothing would better here. Oil and grease will attract lint and dust and seize sooner. I have used a spray Teflon and graphite as the lube on my dryers with graphite lasting longer.
The black film is probably the lube with some added dust. When you replace this try some powdered graphite or molybdenum dry lube, it lasts a long time and the black film that it produces is a lubricant.


Is there a 3-way occupancy switch with one sensor being external?

There are more choices than you might think

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/SectionDisplay.jsp?section=38557&minisite=10251

I am thinking you might want a 3-way, manual on, auto off.

But whatever Pattern, Coverage, Time delay, or Switch type, you will likely find it here.

You can get leviton stuff anywhere, it is likely one of these would be a special order, or buy it online.

Do not worry about bad amazon reviews on these things, they are usually a case of the switch being more clever than the installer.


Washer in front or behind cabinet panel mounted with lag screws?

Washers are almost always to 1) spread the load of the screw head to a larger area, and 2) to prevent damage to the face of the component being fastened. They can also be used as spacers, but I don't see a need for that here.

In your case, the washers go under the screw head and over the cabinet mount.


Is it ok to insulate external cantilever floor joists with foam board to fix cold floor?

Any kind of insulation will help us would consider boxing by in the space also, if in an elevated area we used to have trouble with swallows building their mud nests in areas like that so boxing them was a must, (I don’t see that issue here but we had it just north of you). But insulation will help.


Why are lights on 15 amp circuits and receptacles on 20 amp?

Breakers protect wiring and connections. Most lighting circuits are done with #14 wire, which is adequate for the duty it performs. To prevent overheating (fire risk), 15A breakers are required by code for most circuits using #14 AWG wire. Lighter wire and other components are less expensive and easier to work with.

Many power tools, appliances, and other devices draw at or above 15A at startup or under load. It's often desirable to have more current capacity there than you'd need in a lighting circuit. 20A circuits are typically wired with #12 AWG wire to handle the additional current safely.

Simply put, each circuit has a different purpose. It's not just about short circuit protection, but available current load.


You'll use a 3" x 3" x 1-1/2" PVC DWV Sanitary Tee. It's important that you use a sanitary tee, and that you fit it in the proper orientation.

Or a 3" x 1-1/2" PVC DWV Reducer Coupling

Venting island fixtures can be difficult, since you obviously can't simply install a vertical vent pipe.  The Family Handyman has a good article on How to Plumb an Island Sink

You'll notice the article provides two methods, either you provide a separate vent line, or you use an air admittance device (AAV). The AAV method is only going to be accepted in some areas, so check with your building department before going that route.

As for which way to install a tee.  If you're installing a straight tee, there's no wrong way.  If you're installing a sanitary tee, you'll have to pay attention to the direction of water flow.

Let's say you have a sanitary tee like this

If the flow is down like this...

You can have water flow in like this...

If you have the tee like this...

It's upside down, and you can't have water flow in like this...


Toilet valve black rubber seal disintegrating

It's unclear exactly where this seal is without pictures, but in general they are all replaceable, ease of replacement varies (sometimes you have to take the tank off the toilet to replace seals), and you had better try to find one made for your specific brand/model of toilet, as between manufacturers there are often incompatibilities. An actual plumbing supply may have a better selection of parts than a big box store.

Some replacement seals are offered in a "chlorine resistant" rubber formulation (often red) but in general, rubber at 30-50 years old does simply tend to fail from old age. If you are one of those people that puts an extra-chlorine "toilet cleaner" in your tank, you might expect to have faster aging of rubber and plastic parts as a result. Even if you do not add extra chlorine, they do not last forever.


Will water vapour travel through lime and feed mould?

When you say "lime" I assume that you mean some sort of mortar or plaster.
I see the brick or stone in the wall and some kind of material that has been troweled in around the drain pipe.
To answer your questions :

Gasses could move through unsealed mortar very slowly, but mold spores would not.

Water vapor would not travel through the mortar by osmosis, but it could wick standing water farther up into the wall. Seal the patch if it does.

If you don't introduce moisture through your patch, there's no problem with it being the most permeable spot in your wall. A mortar based patch is probably ideal.


How can I stop water from coming in through a crack near the top of my bulkhead wall?

Best bet here (given that it's shallow) would be [in the spring/summer] to dig up around the outside, and waterproof it from there. Waterproofing the inside only is doomed to fail, as the water will still be in the wall, and in this arrangement it will freeze and move, breaking any inside-only treatment. Dig down a foot or so, clean the wall well, patch any holes or cracks, and then coat the whole thing with waterproofing.

Your stairs are almost an exact match for the circa 1964 house I worked on for a while ;-) A center runner was evidently not popular then.


Clay has been used for a long time for sewer pipes - and for transporting water in general (google "clay sewer pipe California").  It could also be a drain tile installation - like a french drain.  The simplest way to tell would be by having someone flush the toilet, or take a shower (something that will generate flow in the sewer) and look inside the pipe to see if there is more flow.  You could also  call 811 (Digsafe) or look up building records with your local town hall to see where the sewer line is on your property.


Mystery circuit breaker discovered in QO panel

I have both styles of these breakers. If you look on the left side you will see the square D logo embossed in the case.
The ones I have came out of an older panel. They work fine but I needed to upgrade from the 15,20 to 20,20 like you have. So the answer is yes square D made these or this style.


What brand is a kitchen sink with this logo?

A google search brought up a similar logo for Artisan sinks. A fleur de lys with the two extra stems.


Can I use a USA GFCI Intex Pool pump in New Zealand

For future readers:

NO: US motors are 60Hz, while NZ are 50Hz (your new pump will run 27% slower). Even if you transform the voltage, that will not ensure that other electronics work as designed.


Sand-blaster or angle-grinder to remove rust?

No contest

Sandblaster doesn't just beat, it positively trounces any other rust removal method.

That's not me talking.  It's NASA.  Their location at Cape Canaveral ("Who picked this place? Nikita Khrushchev?") ... has a huge problem with rust due to being tidal and subject to sea spray.  What a lovely place for millions of tons of steel latticework gantry structure, in their dozens of launchpads.  So they have a rather significant division dedicated to rust control, and they have a web site: http://corrosion.ksc.nasa.gov which you can read yourself.

NASA, naturally, "did the research".  They have, for years, prepared samples using various techniques (not to mention their experience maintaining their own structures).  Media blast to SSPC-SP10 (near white metal) is head and shoulders above the second and third, which roughly tie: needle scaling and grinding.

Once you've media blasted to near white metal, the quality of your paint is the deciding factor.  We had somebody media blast a metal structure, then paint some of the first "non-lead" primer that I procured for $11 a gallon ($25/gal inflation adjusted) at a local paint manufacturer, then topped with their same brand black alkyd topcoat. 20 years gone, the black started chipping and peeling, but the primer is still going strong. Less than 0.5% of the area has any detectable rust activity.  On the other hand I've used excellent $90/gal primers on power-wirebrush prep, and had it fail within 7-8 years.


You have hot and switched mixed up (or hot feed and hot out) if you have constant power where you want switched, and switching the switch turns off the outlet in the hallway.
i.e. you THINK the outlet in the hallway powers the lights, when it appears that the lights power the outlet in the hallway. So the lights come first, then the hot (used to) run on to the hallway, and now the wire to the hallway is passing through a switch, so the hallway is switched, and the thing you want switched has constant power.


How to run Ethernet cable along a brick wall?

There are cable clamps available that have nails suitable for masonry walls


how to remove ALKCO flourescent L40 bulb

The bulbs pull straight out, there are spring clips on the back sides at each end making the connections. If you grab the bulb at the ends and pull straight out from the fixture, it will come out. Sometimes, because these were often used as vanity lights in bathrooms, the spring clips and connectors on the bulb will corrode, making it tough to remove them.