What could cause polyurethane to dry with excess gloss?

The gloss in clear finishes is reduced by flatting agents which are suspended in the clear finish.  Flatting agents are tiny particles that reflect some of the light back, thereby reducing the sheen of the finish.  If they settle out or are not mixed well, then the finish will be more glossy, so it's possible you did not mix the finish as well the second time.

Finishers often start with full gloss for the first coats, and then finish with the lower-gloss levels desired, so you may be able to fix the problem simply by applying properly mixed finish over the existing finish.

Another way to reduce the gloss level is to essentially scuffing the surface with fine scratches.  This is sometimes called 'rubbing out' the finish.  You can do it using various powdered abrasives, fine sandpaper, or scotch-brite pads and sanding with the grain of the wood.  The advantage to the mechanical scuffing is that it gives you complete control over the degree you reduce the gloss.  However this treatment can be much more time consuming and this would be more typical for fine furniture rather than for trim.

You can read more on adjusting sheen of a finish in this article written by Bob Flexner, a very well known wood finishing expert.


How can I seal this dryrot spot to prevent it from getting worse?

Remove the entire shower door and frame and scrub door opening tile and door/frame assembly completely clean and let dry. Re-install shower door properly and completely seal all areas where frame and tile meet with high-grade silicone caulk. Most swinging shower doors are supposed to have a vinyl flap at the bottom to prevent water spray from escaping under the door, make sure yours has one.

Cut back the floor covering to expose all damaged and soft wood. Gouge and chisel out all damaged and soft wood. You may have extensive additional damage, this answer does not address that. Use a high quality 2-part wood repair epoxy (it's kind of like auto body filler) to fill all damaged areas. Plane/sand smooth. Cover with entire new vinyl floor or make a patch somehow. This should help until the remodel. In future you need to address water issues immediately to prevent similar damage.


50 amp breaker being replaced by a 60 amp breaker

Larger amperage requires larger wiring.  It's possible but probably not likely that the existing wire can handle the larger current.

The heater is probably not rated for the larger breaker, so even if the wire is big enough, still might be a real bad idea.


Water Dripping out of Overflow Pipe outside of house near my kitchen?

Even though the water heater is some distance away it is still the most likely candidate for the source of this overflow pipe.  I would replace the pop-off valve on the water heater.  See if things change.


What is required to fix this plastered drywall ceiling?

This was a nice straight plaster ceiling and I'm assuming you want it to look that way again. I would be sinking those drywall screw to the drywall level, add the drywall to the still damaged area and the plaster over the whole area. If some of the old plaster is loose, break it away first. This should give you a smooth finish to the rest of the wall. I think taping it would be really hard to hide.


Why is my gas stove taking 30+ seconds to light?

The problem is clearly with the gas feed.  If other portions (like other burners) work okay, the plumbing in common to those and further upstream is all fine.  The problem would be the last portions to the burners.

I would start by removing the grate, lifting off the burner caps, and lift up the burner assemblies.  Any foreign matter in there?  If there is goo, run them through the dishwasher, toothpaste and an old toothbrush, or a steel wool cleaning pad and water to get it off.

Have a look at the igniter tips:  are they clean and shiny?  Do the heavily used tips look similar to the lightly used tips?  200–400 grit sandpaper is the easy fix for these.  Place the burners back into position carefully, making sure each seats securely and aligns with the igniter.  Place the caps back on paying attention to the alignment of the nub-like posts underneath (which keeps them from sliding off) so they don't cause a gap by making the cap sit up on a post.

If that doesn't renew performance, it is either a valve or plumbing problem.  I would call an appliance repairman at that point for his/her knowledge of the exact problems with that model as well as the range of solutions and prices.


20A Circuit In Use Trips Unrelated 20A Breaker

You have crossed neutrals
First, crossed neutrals are always bad.  After all, neutrals don't have breakers:  the whole idea of neutral protection is that the neutral can't possibly carry more current than its partner hot (or hots in the case of an MWBC).  If you cross/share neutrals, now a 20A neutral wire can return current for 40A worth of hots, and none will be the wiser.
If an AFCI has a neutral pigtail, it includes a GPFE - a weak GFCI that is sensitive to crossed neutrals like a GFCI is.  The easiest way to detect arc faults which are ground faults (i.e. hot-ground or neutral-ground) is simply detect ground faults.
So, whoever wired the monorail lighting, not naming any names, tapped off a place maybe they should not have.  They picked up "hot" off the garage motor circuit, and "neutral" off the laundry room circuit.
A "switch loop" for a switch brings only always-hot, and switched-hot to the switch -- no neutral.  So you can see where that's a recipe for trouble - a novice installing a new lighting string in an existing switch box might be tempted to grab hot off circuit 1's "switch loop" and for lack of a companion neutral, grab neutral off circuit 2.
99% of the time this fiasco goes undetected.  And obviously if the AFCI or GFCI had supplied the hot, then no joy, since that would trip.   But the odd case of an AFCI supplying the neutral is what you have.  AFCIs don't necessarily interrupt neutral.
To give specifics on how to fix it, we'd need specifics about how it was wired. The above is one guess.


Since you have used backstabs , time to get better quality receptacles (back and side) and wire them using the screws.

Backstabbed receptacles are the leading electrical failure in residential wiring.

The problem is at the last working receptacle or the first non working receptacle.
With your magic 8 ball tester as they are referred to here a loose connection can show reverse connection when every thing is correct but a bad connection.

If you have two many wires in a box to be able to remove the receptacle the box fill is probably well beyond code values, I like to use a hair dryer on high when I have intermittent problems it will usually cause the failure and I can check to find the last good receptacle and the problem will be there on the “load” side the side feeding the next receptacle or the line side of the first dead receptacle line is the feed from the previous receptacle.

You can find many examples of backstabs having problems on this site alone, it can be a loose wire nut or broken wire Also but if backstabs are used they will the problem 96% of the time.


Need Sprinkler Cracked PVC Pipe Repair Suggestions

The usually ways to introduce flexibility (both in terms of angles and actual movement) involve adding more elbows and more pipe. I'd take off the broken elbow, add a new elbow that turns to horizontal (toward the camera in this view). Add two new elbows to bring the pipe back to the tee in any convenient manner. You may need to rework more than that because there's no spare pipe at the tee.

A few more elbows are unlikely to reduce flow enough to be a concern unless flow is already an issue, or nearly so.


When installing wood siding, do I need to leave a gap to accommodate expansion?

As pointed out by the others, I think it is wise to provide vapor barrier and insulation for your region's concern. THe supplier shall have recommended the method of installation, concerning gap between boards, and naling vs screwing.
The recommendation below is directly copied from the linked article FYI use, https://www.workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.
"ESTIMATING WOOD MOVEMENT
It’s also useful to know how much a board is likely to move. You must anticipate the movement when fitting drawers and doors, inserting panels in frames, and dozens of other operations.
The rule of thumb is that if the board shows mostly flat grain on its face, allow for 1⁄4 inch total wood movement for every 12 inches across the grain. If it shows mostly quarter grain, allow for 1⁄8 inch movement. This will accommodate an annual change of 8 percent moisture content — much more than is common in most areas.
Also consider the time of year. Wood shrinks to its smallest dimension in the winter and swells to its maximum in the summer. The wood in winter projects will expand; the wood in summer projects will contract. In the spring and fall, remember that the wood will expand half your total movement allowance and contract the other half."


What's the best / recommended way to mark and manage unused electrical cables

I'm currently thinking I should put both ends into junction boxes, marked with a printed label.

Seems perfectly reasonable to me.

  And then perhaps mark all areas where it may be visible (I.e., in the loft, under the floorboards and in the consumer box cupboard) with some kind of identifying tape.

Seems like overkill to me. It's pretty obvious that a 10mm2 in a domestic setting is almost certainly intended for either a cooker or a shower.


Is there a functional/performance difference between standard and self adhesive mesh drywall tape?

paper tape:

stronger, less likely to crack
easier for inside corners because you can crease/fold it
easy to cover with first mud coat, lays nice and flat
must be bedded in initial layer of mud

mesh tape:

have seen cracks over time
drywall knife seems to catch on it easily, pulls it
easy to lay down without bedding in mud

Just my opinions formed over years of experience, others will have their own.


Dump a box of baking soda on it, wait a few days, vacuum it up.


Recommend attachment for a drill/driver for drywall screws

Yes. Look for a Drywall Screw Setter Bit Tip. They work well.


Fernco makes rubber caps that you would put a stainless worm-gear clamp around.  Take your outside diameter measurement to a plumbing supply house.. What your have is a main drain and cleanout wye.  As suggested by dmoore, future plumbing may be connected, though its not a toilet flange.  Its likely the point of exit for the drain system (from the house), as it traverses to the sewer (or septic), to allow the drain to be snaked out, if obstructed.


Are these drywall screws properly driven/countersunk?

Yes, that is the proper depth at which a sheetrock screw should be driven. The rock is dimpled with enough of a pocket to hold the compound, yet does not weaken the board


Maybe the electrician wouldn't just pop a clamp on there because there is too much not seen to the eye, he was confused, and didn't want his license to be on the hook without opening a big can of worms. (Also it looks like you may have some solar equipment, and that may be over his head or license.)
I would expect to see the water pipe bonded and two ground rods connected with #6 bare copper wire for a 150A service. The wire to the water pipe needs to be connected within 5' of where it enters the building. I would call the local inspector and ask if local ordinances requires the ground rods be further separated than the 6' required by the (2017) NEC. One jurisdiction I have worked in required 16'. It is acceptable to run separate Grounding Electrode Conductor (GEC) to each electrode. Usually you loop the GEC through the connector at the first ground rod and extend to the second. Then a separate wire is run to the water pipe, but you could extend the wire from the rods to the water pipe or pipe to a rod. Generally the conductors need to be continuous or spliced with irreversible connection. I would only use ground rods with a (UL or other) Listing mark.
Now some explanation and disclaimers. An unaltered system is legal as long as it was legally installed when installed. The open question that is left to local interpretation is "when does a repair or addition trigger the requirement to bring something up to current code?" So any advice here may exceed the minimum work you might be able to get by with, but will reflect what most electricians would expect an Inspector would expect to see. A local jurisdiction would likely require updating with the addition of solar equipment.
The cold water pipe used to satisfy the Grounding Electrode requirement. Then the Code was revised and said a water pipe needs a supplemental grounding electrode, which for most purposes means a ground rod. This is likely what was required when your electrical panel was installed. Then the Code writers decided that ground rods had to test 25 ohms or less to ground or a second ground rod at least 6 feet away is required. Also Communication systems, lightening arrest, and other systems need to be connected to the Grounding Electrode System, the methods have evolved also, and the NEC hasn't always been adopted or enforced by local jurisdictions or even interpreted the same. Sometimes a 5 ft. ground rod has been driven to satisfy those systems, but they don't satisfy the requirements for your electric service. A fuller mostly accurate description of current requirements for ground rods can be found here. Currently most jurisdictions have adopted the requirement of a Intersystem Bonding Termination for new services, you likely do not need to worry about that.


For some reason those plug-in receptacle testers show this result when there is an open neutral.

This means the neutral conductor for the circuit is open or compromised somewhere. Most often it is a poor connection at a receptacle where the wires are back-stabbed, or stuck into the "quickwire" holes in the back.

A quick test to do is to plug the tester into each receptacle on the circuit, working or not, and wiggle it. Many times the faulty connection will show as the circuit flickers or comes back on.

The best course is to at the very least move the wires from the quickwire holes to the side screw terminals. The best bet is to replace the receptacle entirely using the side screws.


What type of product can I use to hang wall art on bare wood that won't damage the wall?

Two approaches come to mind:

Thin nail picture hooks

These use very sharp, very thin hardened nails that can be removed leaving a hole so small it is nearly invisible, even in finished wood. If it were noticeable, it could be concealed with touch up wax. Various weight load sizes are available. The sizes that have the thinnest nails can hold at least 20 lbs. each, more if pairs of hooks are used.

Removable hooks

These are glue on devices in which the glue strip can be pulled to remove, supposedly doing no harm to the finish of the wall.  These hangers are limited to loads no greater than 5 lbs., but the use of two hangers would increase that load.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


Should I replace my roof or just fix it?

Everyone has given good advice, but the ultimate decision is probably going to depend on the total cost and real time before you plan to add a full second story. I have done dozens of roofs in my time and can give you the following considerations.

A new roof is probably going to cost you around $300 to $350 per square (10ftX10ft or each 100 square feet) for a complete strip, 6 feet of ice/water shield and new 30 yr shingles. Not knowing the size of your roof and pitch, I can't give you a real good guess, but a simple 24X30 cape with a chimney, no crickets or tricky valleys usually runs around 3 to 4 grand. Any good roofer is going to insist that any damaged or rotting roof shiething be replaced while it is stripped, adding more cost. Don't count on using the old roof structure when you remodel. Raising a roof under a new wall system can be very expensive and I suspect you have an original rafter system and board sheithing. Your new roof will want to be of the newest materials and techniques such as trusses, tounge and grove sheathing, soffit and ridge vents etc. A second story is a huge investment and in my humble opinion, very wise to do it all new.

As far as possible repairs to your old existing roof, you may be able to replace some shingles in the field easily, and repair the leaks around the chinmey with a good coat of blind nailing cement or even remove a couple of feet of shingles and treat the area with Grace ice and water shield then reshingle that small area. Obviously, we can't see or judge the general condition or continued life expectancy of the existing roof. I would strongly suggest you stop the water ASAP as Tester is right on saying a couple years of water can cause you a lot of other problems. Good Luck


The beeper may simply have been turned off. Try pressing and holding COOK TIME for 5 seconds to turn tones on, and Snd ON will appear on the display. (This is from the Owner Manual.)


Is it required for effectiveness to stretch interior window film?

Tightening the transparent plastic is mainly for cosmetic reasons. As long as the tape stays in place, the plastic will do its job of preventing air flow.

If the kit is exposed to buffeting winds strong enough to snap the plastic sheet back and forth, it could tear or pull off the tape. So you want it to be as tight as possible.

In general most people find that it's impossible to pull the sheet tight without leaving a few wrinkles, but after using the right color tape and shrinking the plastic a little, the result is indistinguishable from a windowpane.

In your case, with that AC in place, you're not going to get a windowpane effect anyway, so just pull it tight manually. You might consider taping both the inside and outside to help prevent loosening or blowout.

EDIT: I have just learned of another reason for tightening a window film. The plastic film can not only eliminate through drafts, but can be installed to reduce convection transfer by trapping a thin layer of air against the glass.

The ideal separation distance between film and glass is 1/2 inch. Even 1 inch is too thick as it allows the trapped air to circulate freely within the gap. But at 1/2 inch, unless the plastic film is quite tight, it will bow in and stick to the glass over at least part of the window.

I know this remark does not apply to the OP's circumstance but I include it here for the general case.


I've cleaned up after lightning hits an antenna, and designed spark gaps to protect electronics.  The last thing I'd do is install a lightning rod through my basement.  That stuff should stay outside, irrespective of NEC 810.21(J).  Ground loops are not a serious concern in this particular application.

I'd also consider changing the 8' rod into two 4' rods, which are far easier and safer to drive into the ground.


Checklist for installing proper electrical outlet outside the house

As a related by separate issue regarding the camera USB power. If it were me, I would not put the USB power adapter on the outside of the house under the in-use cover like that (even if you found one with room under the cover). My reasoning is because if the camera is for security, all someone needs to do is unplug the USB adapter and it is dead!

The USB wires themselves are "low voltage", meaning most of the wiring rules don't apply. So what I did on mine was to put the USB power adapter INSIDE of the garage plugged into an existing outlet, then just drill a hole in the wall for the USB cable to pass through to the camera base with nothing exposed and visible. You can seal around the wire with some simple silicone sealant.


A few concerns:

The range hood will need to be placed above the window, possibly blocking some of your view, unless you install a downdraft vent frequently seen in cooking islands.
If you have a messy cook in the house, cleaning the grease off of the window panes and crevices will be all the more difficult on a window.  And curtains or blinds are even worse.
In the winter, boiling water close to the window will result in a lot of condensation.  If that runs down the window and freezes, you could be looking at some damage.

None of this says you can't do it.  I doubt that the thermal changes will break the glass, but I couldn't say for sure.  But all other things being equal (which you say they aren't) I would choose somewhere other than the window myself.


Can I tile over a horizontal band of tiles in my shower?

I would not try to tile over the band of small tiles for several reasons. You said they were tight and what ever the gray material is your grout renew won't stick so that would be a problem with any new tile also. If you add a layer and it sticks you Now have a ledge that can hold water even if a grout filet was placed on the top edge there would be more of a chance of water getting trapped and the soap scrum that would collect would always be a pain. Last it would not look right, you would be better off carefully removing the band and replacing with the subway tiles you wanted to put on top.


Why does a breaker buzz when you turn it on?

CEB Ltd. is a now obsolete panel mfr., but they used Cutler Hammer circuit breakers. You can still buy those breakers from Eaton (the new name for Cutler Hammer) and they still use the same part numbers.

Those are "bolt-on" circuit breakers, meaning the way they connect to the panel bus bars is a bolt (screw) instead of a stab-in arrangement. Bolt-on breakers are mostly used in industry, not residential because industrial and commercial users are usually moving and modifying circuits more often, so plug-in breakers get loose and sloppy over time. The down side to bolt-on breakers though is that the connections must be periodically tightened, something that an industrial user would have as part of a routine maintenance program. Most homeowners however are unaware of this need, hence the preference for stab-in breakers.

The point is, the buzzing sound is often a sign of that bolted connection getting loose, and it is VERY dangerous as it could eventually start a fire! If you are uncomfortable with messing with the guts of your panel, hire an electrician immediately. They (or you) must remove that breaker and clean off all mating surfaces on the breaker tang and the bus bars before re-assembling it. DO NOT just tighten up the screw as there is likely debris in there now from arcing that has been taking place.


Water heater flush leaving pilot on is it safe?

Yes it is safe to leave the water heater in pilot mode while flushing. You do not want the burner to fire while the tank is empty as this can damage the tank but the pilot will not cause a problem.
Added: most gas valves with a standing pilot have the temp setting and “pilot”  then off settings. Rotating to the pilot mode will keep the burner from turning while flushing. Some valves have a button to push to go into pilot mode.
For gas models with igniters just turning the valve off is fine as it will relight automatically.


How much should it cost to add a circuit breaker?

It is fairly simple to add an additional breaker to a box but of course there would be some sort of minimum charge to come out and also the cost of the breaker, so probably around $100.

BUT that assumes the actual line for the sump pump/microwave (the one you want to put on the new circuit) is all by itself.  I have seen some interesting wiring in old houses where one thing is wired to the next which is wired to the next and eventually all of it goes back to the same breaker.  The electrician might need some time to figure out how the microwave and/or sump pump are currently wired before being able to propose a solution.  If this is the case then I would expect a much higher bill (since this is no longer a trivial "install a new breaker" job).


How can I repair a vinyl window that is not staying up?

Many single and double-hung vinyl windows have "spiral sash balances". An internet search of that term will reveal a lot of info. They are replaceable but it is not simple, and finding the right size can be a challenge also. If the windows are old consider a DIY replacement of the entire window unit with an easily installed block frame replacement window.


Is this plastic pipe connecting city water to the main line dangerous?

Though it may seem odd, it is possible the plumber knows what he's talking about.  If this is a Polybutylene pipe, it could indeed be brittle and fail if it's jostled during the installation of the filter.
It's impossible to tell from the picture what type of pipe that is, but based on the plumbers concern I'd guess it is Polybutylene.
Polybutylene
Polybutylene was used in pipes between about 1980-1994/5, and was commonly used as supply line in the 80's.  It was found (in some cases) to react with oxidants in the water supply, which caused the pipe to become brittle and fail. To my knowledge, this type of piping is no longer used. Though if the house was built; or there was supply line work done, during the 80's, it's likely this is Polybutylene pipe.
High Density Polyethylene
Don't confuse Polybutylene pipe with Polyethylene pipe.  High-density polyethylene is commonly used as water supply line today, and is stable and safe to use.
Cross-linked polyethylene
Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is not typically used as an underground supply line, as it can sometimes react with minerals in the soil.  Where PEX is used underground, it's typically encased in sand (or other non-reactive materials) to prevent negative reactions. Because of this it's often more expensive to bury PEX, so other materials are used instead.
How can I tell what it is?
The only way to be sure what type of pipe this is, is to look for markings on the pipe itself.  Polybutylene will be marked PB####, Polyethylene will be marked PE####, Cross-linked polyethylene will be marked PEX-x (where x = A, B, or C).


Should the steel pipe from the gas meter into a home have foam insulation like an exposed water pipe?

The temperature at which methane liquefies is around -258°F (-161°C), and it doesn't freeze until -296°F (-182°C).  If it's cold enough to freeze the gas in your pipes, you have bigger things to worry about!


Consider adding ANOTHER valve
Many years ago when my plumber was doing some work (I think water heater replacement, with no separate shutoff valve for the water heater), he found that the existing old main shutoff valve would only cut ~ 90%. So he turned off the water at the meter (which also only worked around 90%) and then, with a relatively slow flow of water coming through, cut the pipe and installed a second valve, something like this 1/4 turn ball valve.
In my case, the old valve and new valve are both inside the house. Since your existing valve is outside you might want to install a new valve inside if there is an accessible location before the pipe splits off to different parts of the house.


The best situation is to use the type of faucet made specifically for this application where there may be freezing exterior temperatures. The faucet is an assembly that has an almost standard looking external spigot but the valve handle connects to a shaft inside a long pipe on the back end of the assembly that sticks in through the wall. The shaft operates an internal valve that projects a foot or so inside the wall to where the temperature is certain to not fall below freezing.

Typical Unit:

Typical installation detail:

Proper installation and usage in freezing weather requires that the portion of the faucet assembly with the shaft within be tilted downward toward the spigot end to permit that portion to drain out when the faucet is off. Obviously the hose should be removed as well.

You have not provided much data regarding the building wall and foundation details so it is not possible to provide much help on how to best locate and secure the frost resistant type of faucet. It is a pretty good guess that the quick hack job installation of the existing faucet through the crawl space vents was done that way because it was the easiest way to poke through the wall. When you go to modify the installation it would be good to locate the frost resistant type unit away from the vents. (In fact the vents may want to be insulated during freezing weather). It is common to install the external faucet assembly up between the floor joists and out through a hole in the rim joist. This places the pipe assembly up close to the floor where the heated interior of the building keeps the area warmer.


You'll either need to use a separate 24VAC transformer, or replace the boiler relay with something that provides a C terminal
Sadly, your Argo AR821, like many older boiler relays, does not provide a C terminal at all.  As a result, you'll need to either wire an external 24VAC transformer to Rc and C on the thermostat to provide it with power while connecting Rh and W to the relay terminals, or replace your boiler relay with a newer model that provides a C terminal.


Extend Clean Out Pipe and Fill Hole with Cement

Water is very sneaky. It will always find the path of least resistance. To fix this problem you need to first find the actual source. You may have exterior sewage draining back into your house. A licensed plumber can use a dye in different areas and that dye will show up in your clean out pipe. If it does then you know where it came from and where to begin fixing the problem. If it does not, then you know that it is simply water from outside. Remember, that pipe was put there for a reason. Sealing it may cause more problems in the long run.


Proper, code compliant, way to move an electrical outlet

You can use a special In wall splice called a tyco or nm splice and add enough to move the receptacle over. These splices are not required to be accessible and are kind of expensive at 15-20$ but they do what you want and are available at big box and specialty stores.


Capping a leaky outdoor faucet, good idea?

You could probably use a shutoff like this one as a temporary solution.

If it's still "temporary" when you winterize, I would remove it then.

Edit to add why it's temporary (as requested via comment).

Why is it a temporary solution?  Its a quick way to stop the leak, but doesn't take freezing cycles into account.  Outdoor valves are typically "frost free", and the portion of the valve that actually stops the water flow is either inside the heated area of the house, or deep underground.  A long stem on the valve allows the user to turn the valve on or off.  Diagrams of typical frost free valves appear below.  When turned off the portion of the valve outside (or above the fiostline) is allowed to drain.

As you can see, using the above as a quick fix won't allow water to drain out of the valve body (or in the case of the underground type it won't provide vent to drain underground).


To fix the damage, pry any loose material free, patch with compound, sand, and prime/paint with a paint designed for wet areas (preferably mold/mildew-resistant too).

To prevent this from happening again, you'll need to improve ventilation in the area. It's a little hard to tell from these photos, but this looks like a corner within your shower where warm moist air is likely to pool. A drywall or plaster ceiling that is constantly exposed to moisture is going to have these problems again. Consider some of the following options:

Ensure an exhaust fan is used when the shower is run, and for 30min afterwards to clear moisture from the bathroom.
Add an exhaust fan, or reposition the existing one, to better ventilate this area (Note: you probably can't safely/code-compliantly put it in the shower area)
Lower the glass divider, in order to provide an air space along the ceiling so that moisture can disperse more easily.
Have less steamy showers (your shower head type and position, as well as the typical water temperature, can affect how much steam is generated)
Make the ceiling more water resistant - better paint and caulking any cracks may be adequate, but you could go as far as adding a waterproofing membrane and tiling it.


What the heck is going on in this electrical box?

I don't think that's really burnt...

The closeup of the red wire linked in the comment does not appear particularly burnt to me (it'd be a quite strange spot to have a burnt spot, anyway).

The setup is good

What this setup appears to be is a new-style switch loop that provides neutral at the switch box, which is now required by the NEC (so that fancy dimmers/smart-switches/timers/... don't have to pull dumb stunts to power themselves).  The black wires that are nutted in the back of the box are the always-hots (incoming from the power source and outgoing to the switch), the red wire is the switched-hot coming back from the wall switch), and the white wires are all neutrals (incoming neutral from the power source and neutral off to the wall switch location).

One potential issue though

One thing I would check while you have this box open though is to make sure the grounds are made-up properly; the installer may have simply twisted the wires together without using a nut, which doesn't guarantee a proper connection.  I would take all those bare ground wires, untwist them, add a ground pigtail to a 10-32 self-tapper (Garvin GSST or equivalent) driven into exposed metal on the fixture (this takes care of grounding the fixture), insert them into the correct size wirenut, and twist the wirenut on, so that you have them properly connected from here on out.


Why don't I have power after an outlet was shorted?

What usually hapens is the overload causes the wires to fuse, as Greebo mentions.

But it doesn't fuse just anywhere.  It fuses in a very specific place, namely, backstab / push connections.  They are notorious for doing this.  We recommend using side screws in wiring; backstabs are only intended as a speed shortcut for builders wiring in high production rates.

As you probably know, most circuits are wired in strings.  (Legally they are allowed to be wired in "tree" fashion, unlimited branches never looping back on itself... but a vine is a type of tree, isn't it?)

Regardless, if you have some good outlets and some bad ones in the same circuit string, the problem is always at the first bad one, or the last good one.  The term "outlet" also includes lighting and other hard-wired loads.


What type of insulation should be used to deter subterranean termites?

I can verify boron treated EPS degrades over time. Boron is water soluble, so the treatment doesn't last through more than a couple wet seasons.

There's apparently a new insecticidal treatment being sold under the trademark Preventol.  It's unclear how many years this treatment will remain effective. In any case, I think soil treatment should be used whenever EPS is installed below grade to help long-term repel insects.

The foamglas product looks interesting. It's made of silicon instead of polymer. It would still be nice to see a long-term test, though. Until someone buries it for a few years, the claims of the manufacturer can't be verified.


Questions about rental/landlords aside, you could X nail with some construction adhesive and as long as your crown isn't huge (less than 5"), it should stay up fine.

If I was doing this, I'd have temporary bracing (1x2s would be fine) while the glue sets, and add plenty of nails wherever the crown looks loose against the wall/ceiling.

One last tip you didn't ask for... when I do crown, I center it on the wall, shoot the middle to pin it in place, then do the corners with a bit of scrap (cut to the other side of the corner) to tweak the angle perfectly. If you have to twist a lot to make the corners right, then pin the corners and then pull the middle off and do over. If you just have to twist a tiny bit, then keep nailing. Twisting works much better on mdf than wood, obviously.


Is there any benefit to tripping a GFCI receptacle when it's not in use?

TLDR: Being energized isn't what kills outdoor GFCIs. The weather is. Put 'em indoors and protect the (plain) outdoor outlets using their LOAD feature.

The "TEST" button is not intended as an "off" switch. Edit: except this one is designed for that purpose.  Tripping the device when not in use might help the internal electronics avoid surge/spike damage. Might, depending on which side of the interrupt the electronics are on.

However, for an GFCI device kept in the mean outdoors, that is the least of your problems, as discussed elsewhere.  The small amount of heat from the GFCI may help ward off condensation.  The best way to extend the life of a GFCI is move it indoors.

Almost all GFCI devices, including "receptacles", are able to grant GFCI protection to additional devices.  You can put one of those indoors somewhere earlier in the circuit, and have it grant GFCI protection to the rest of the circuit, including the outdoor receptacle. That becomes a plain receptacle with a "GFCI protected" sticker.  Test using a 3-light tester which has a GFCI test button.


What are the implications of driving a drywall screw too far into the sheet?

The paper is a key part of the drywall structure. Just as when you cut the paper on the drywall it's easy to snap, when you screw past the paper it's easy to blow out the back. Plaster and paper are a lot like concrete and rebar, the plaster based core of drywall resists compression, while the paper resists tension.

It's not essential to pull the old screws, the damage has already been done and will be mudded over. But you should add a second screw a few inches away anywhere you went too deep. This is a critical repair for drywall on the ceiling, and a very good idea for drywall mounted on the wall. I wouldn't go through any added effort to tear down the drywall, since it's still perfectly good. Just add the extra screws and be happy you caught the problem before experiencing a collapse.

Update: From your new photos, those screws are too deep. Once the paper has been torn, you lose strength at that screw location. You should never be able to see plaster around the screw head, but you also should never be able to run a flat edge over the drywall and feel the screw head above the drywall. It's a fine line to walk, but a professional drywaller should be able to walk it with ease (we train amateurs to do this in under a hour).

Also, from those photos, it doesn't appear that the installers are using a drywall bit (we refer to them as mushroom bits because of their shape). They leave a distinct ring around each screw, making it easy to countersink the proper depth, and preventing you from going deeper (the bit will cam out when it hits the paper).


The most common reason for something like this is the capacitor on the compressor (the outside part) has gone out. You can do this yourself, you just need to be extra careful if you decide to do so.
Cut off the power to the compressor
You should have a power disconnect switch feeding your compressor. Turn it off. Use a tester to confirm it's off. You'd be amazed how often disconnects have been bypassed after the fact.
Remove the cover to the side where the capacitor is
You should have one corner that is separated from the open area in the middle. Remove the cover and you should see the capacitor inside (almost always a round cylinder with wires attached). Be aware that the capacitor is still charged even with the power off.
Discharge the capacitor
You probably have a C/Common, a F/fan and a Herm(compressor) terminal. Discharge is recommended. I would suggest using a 100 ohm resistor (not recommended to use a screwdriver here). Touch the common to the herm for a few seconds, then do the same for the fan side.
Remove the capacitor
Take a picture of the wires and then remove the capacitor. The connectors push on to tabs. There's typically a strap to hold the capacitor.
Install the new capacitor
If you can't wait for an online delivery, contact a local HVAC company to see if they'll sell you a capacitor directly. Put the wires back on, scrap it back in and turn the power on.
Your compressor should now work. If not, you might need to consult an HVAC company on what else could be wrong.


Can I install a floodlight with 18AWG conductors on a 20A (12AWG) circuit?

Most likely.

As long as the fixture has a UL (or equivalent) stamp/sticker, there is no problem.

Fixture wires, and the wiring inside devices is specifically designed to carry the rated loads. There are different rules applied in this situation, since the load is known and static.

According to the National Electrical Code 2014 402.5, the allowable ampacity of 18 AWG fixture wire is 6 amperes. Your fixture will only draw 2.5 amperes.

I = P/E = 300 Watts / 120 Volts = 2.5 Amperes

If the manufacturer could use smaller wires, they probably would. However, NEC says 18 AWG is the smallest allowed for fixture wires.

One of the reasons light socket adapters can be dangerous, is that they can allow more current to be drawn than was intended by the fixture manufacturer.


Should gloves be worn when working with concrete to prevent it from coming in contact with skin?

Cement (the active component of concrete) is a base (an alkali) that can be irritating to skin. It is not very strong and should not be a problem on all but sensitive skin, if the exposure is short or intermittent. It could be very irritating to eyes and nasal passages if there is a lot of exposure.

Gloves are not a bad idea (e.g., disposable nitrile) but concrete pourers and DIYers handle all the time with little ill effect (again, for short exposure).


New Wooden decking. To stain or not to stain

I'm not sure what preservative-treated means. [Edit: lower in the page it specifically reads "pressure-treated".] Around here, pressure-treated lumber is soaking wet and not suitable for stain/sealer until it's dried at least an entire season.

If it's truly kiln-dried, you're free to apply a stain/sealer at any time. To preserve color and prevent surface degradation, sooner is better.


I keep my dehumidifier at 60% or 65%. That's a good default when you're using the space for storage or are concerned about limiting mold/mildew.

If you're not having problems with the humidity, then consider running it at a higher setting or even removing the dehumidifier altogether. Dehumidifiers use a lot of energy.


Do I need to use a cable connector for the back of a box?

Cables require a cable clamp - the clamp can be external to the box (which requires installing the clamp and cable before mounting the box in the case described, unless you have access to the back of the box when mounted) or internal to the box (where it adds to the count for box fill), but you can't just stuff the cable into the box through a bare hole and call it good.
There are two functions of a cable clamp - one is strain relief - if the cable is pulled on, the clamp takes that strain, and the electrical connections of the conductors do not. The other is preventing damage to the insulation from contact with the sharp edges of the hole in the box.
Wires in conduit do not require clamps. Cables require clamps.


What is permissible for a breaker box cover?

Overcurrent protection devices must be Readily Accessible. The NEC defines Accessible as...

  Accessible (as applied to equipment). Admitting close approach; not guarded by locked doors, elevation, or other effective means

  Accessible (as applied to wiring methods). Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or ﬁnish or
  not permanently closed in by the structure or ﬁnish of the building

  Accessible, Readily (Readily Accessible). Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those
  to whom ready access is requisite to climb over or remove obstacles or
  to resort to portable ladders, and so forth.

If you can achieve this with your plan, then it shouldn't be a problem. Keep in mind, however, if you have to remove screws, nails, or other fasteners to access the breakers. This is no longer Readily Accessible.

Also, hiding the panel could be a bad thing if you ever sell the house. So you'd have to find a way to make it obvious that the panel is there, so people can locate it easily if they ever have to access it.

EDIT:

Forgot to mention; as @lqlarry points out, the cover also has to be Fire Rated.


What screen to use to keep flies and gnats out at night?

Bugs come in a lot of sizes, so unless you measure the bodies of the ones that get through in your area, it's hard to give you a specific size.  In general, though, screen fabric comes in a few nominal meshes intended to handle the typical-sized bugs.

I would start by just seeing if your screens are coarser than the "fine" mesh sold in your area.  Measure the holes or count the "threads per inch".  Compare that to the finest mesh they sell at the local store.  If you use threads per inch, be sure to compare against similar weight screening because different diameter wire or filament will have different gaps between them for the same count per inch.

If the finest they sell has a substantially smaller opening, I would just assume that it's fine enough. If you already have what's considered a fine mesh, you may need to do some research, like measuring bug bodies, or finding out what insect the local pest actually is and how small they are.

If you need openings smaller than the fine mesh sold in your area, you can get screen fabric online that goes down to almost microscopic size.  Some very fine mesh fabric is available for window screens.  The super-fine mesh is typically used for purposes other than keeping bugs out of your house, and can get expensive.


heat causes it to expand. If there's no room to expand, it buckles. It's usually a bigger issue for blacktop, as it's darker and absorbs more heat. I doubt your house foundation or driveway has enough exposed mass for this to be of any concern, though...you typically need highway amounts of surface to cause the buckling


What are the NEC rules for holes in a wooden top plate?

Don't make it larger than half the top plate's width
Since the size of holes in a top plate is a structural concern, not an electrical concern, you need to be looking in the IRC (or other building code) for these details, not the NEC.  In particular, IRC R602.6.1 states that a metal top plate tie strap is needed for a notch or hole in a load-bearing top plate that extends through over half of the top plate's width; unless you're running fat conduit or SE cable, you won't come close to this, though.


Ceiling light wiring problems, please advise

Standard UK wiring.

3 x blacks: neutral loop in, neutral loop out, neutral to other light.

3 x reds: live loop in, live loop out, live to switch

back/red: black (with tippex) switched live from switch. red (with tippex) switched live to other light.

Turn off the mains supply.

Using a test meter/continuity tester, the led live to switch and black switched live will be open circuit when the lightswitch is off, and short circuit when the lightswitch is on.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/House_Wiring_for_Beginners#Loop-in_Wiring


What are the pros and cons of different types of smart switches (that are on the US market) ?

X10

Pros:

Many manufacturers, and wide variety of products are readily-available (As of 2012, this may not be the case any more)
Low-cost

Cons:

Old protocol (circa 1975)
Most devices communicate over power lines, and design makes it susceptable to interference from noise. At worst, noise can be interpreted as commands (causing lights to turn on).
Slow and fairly basic. Sending more than 2 or 3 commands takes a couple seconds.
Only supports 256 addresses per network (total number of discrete dimmers, scenes, and sensors combined)
Requires phase-couplers to bridge both phases of power together
Requires PC or special hardware to program

Products

Smarthome makes fairly decent quality switches, which support scenes (multiple devices responding to a single address).

Insteon

Pros:

Relatively low cost compared to other products on market
Decent quality switches
Basic linking (including scene programming) can be done using devices themselves, PC-based programming for more advanced control.
Each device has unique address (16 million possible), and supports
Hybrid powerline/wireless: many devices use both to communicate, and most devices repeat signals to increase coverage/signal strength
Easy to interface to other products due to market size:

There are even several iOS apps that can control Insteon if you have an ethernet bridge
Most home automation controllers can communicate

Cons:

Swapping out a device can be difficult due to addresses being hardcoded (need to reprogram all other devices that were controlled by or control the swapped device)
Some strange limitations in scene programming (eg, cannot program a scene that sets some devices on, and others off)

Products

Smarthome makes a wide variety of products and is also the designer of Insteon

UPB

Pros:

More reliable protocol than X10
Simply-Automated's switches (at least) are extremely flexible:

Can configure 1,2,3-tap and press-and-hold behaviour for every button
8-button switches are configurable with interchangable faceplates to be anything from a basic dimmer to 4 dimmers or an 8-button keypad or almost anything in between

Cons:

Uses power-line carrier, so it requires phase-couplers to bridge both phases of power together
Complex to program, requires PC software

Products:

Simply-Automated makes switches, plug-in modules, in-line modules, I/O connectors and computer interfaces

Z-Wave

Pros:

Wireless, and each Z-wave unit acts as a repeater, so the more devices you add in your house, the better coverage you get.
Standardized and easy to D-I-Y, you don't have to have it professionally installed

Cons:

Still a technology 'maturing', so you might have to be a bit of a hobbyist to get it all to work correctly.

Products:

Thermostats by Trane and others
Light switches by GE and others
Locks by Yale, Kwikset, and others
Controllers by many vendors, either PC-based (Homeseer, z-wave.me) or separate devices (MiCasaVerde, Homeseer)


How can I identify these small screws for my range hood lights?

That diameter would be very close to a M2.5 at 1.993mm minor screw.  A hex head cap screw (AKA Allen head) could replace the Phillips.

Its also a bit smaller than an ANSI #4-40 at .0805inch  minor

You could try the approximate size and get the matching tap for the closest interference fit.


Separating recessed lighting and Ceiling Fan

You do not need a double pole switch.

All you need to do is make a connection on the hot wire of the fireplace and the hot wire of the ceiling fan AFTER a single pole switch. So you feed the switch hot, and then join the switched hot to the hots of the two devices. Then whenever you flip that switch both devices will come on.

Good luck and stay safe!


Easy to spread caulking - window weather proofing

Check the packaging on the caulk you used for your bathroom. From what you described, it was most likely silicone caulk, which is more difficult to work with than other types of caulk. Silicone requires alcohol rather than water for cleanup. I'd try acrylic caulk, which is the most common choice for exterior applications.


There is a great explanation of hole sizes here: http://l-36.com/woodscrewpilot.php.  Some key points:

You can easily find the actual dimensions by screw size in size charts with a google search, such as http://www.raygirling.com/screwmes.htm.  Your #8 screw has threads with a diameter of approximately 5/32" (0.164"), and a root diameter of approximately 7/64" (0.112").  The root refers to the "inner diameter", the solid shaft inside the threads.
Ignoring the countersink, you may need a pilot hole or a clearance hole.  The clearance hole is slightly larger than the thread diameter so the screw can slip in and out.  When you screw two pieces together, if the threads grab in both pieces, they can hold the pieces apart.  A clearance hole is used in the first piece so that the threads do work only in the second piece and can pull the pieces together.

The threads are shaped like a wedge and make space for themselves by compressing the wood.  But there are limits to how much the wood can be compressed.  The pilot hole allows space for the solid "core" of the screw so that the screw doesn't split the wood.  The clearance hole size isn't critical but the pilot hole size is.
The are many guidelines for pilot hole size, and the recommended size differs for hardwood vs. softwood (hardwood splits more easily).  There are sometimes separate recommendations for brass screws, such as yours, because the metal is soft.  Some sources recommend using a hair larger hole for brass, others recommend just inserting and removing a steel screw first to do the heavy work of cutting the threads and compressing the wood around the screw.
Most pilot hole guides are based on achieving maximum strength as determined by the American Wood Council (AWC). Their recommendation is for 70% of root diameter for softwood and 90% of root diameter for hardwood.  The discussion I linked to describes that as unnecessarily risking splitting, especially near an edge, in order to gain a trivial increase in strength.  It also makes inserting the screw much more difficult.
If you are using brass screws, the application is likely more decorative than structural and the last iota of strength is probably a secondary consideration.  The recommendations of the author I cited are generally based on 85% of root diameter for softwood and just the next drill size larger than the root diameter for hardwood (which ranges from 102% to 116% of root diameter).  Those values should be good for brass screws.  Some other tables recommend 100% of root diameter for hardwood, which should also be fine.

So the recommended pilot hole for your #8 brass screw would be 3/32 for softwood (vs. AWS value of 5/64), and 1/8 or 7/64 for hardwood (vs. AWS value of 3/32).


You could leave it in the boxes, capped, or chop it off. The problem with leaving it in the boxes is you may run up against box fill rules. If you do leave wires in the boxes, even temporarily, any wire by itself should generally have a piece of tape over the wire nut and wire insulation to make sure the cap stays on as the caps generally are designed to hold properly with 2 or more wires.


Can I use a regular electric box for a control panel?

Not sure what locale you are in, but in the US, at least, you can pretty well do what you like, enclosure-wise, at 24V or even 48V, at least from a code perspective. i.e. you could use an old gutted PC computer case, it it floated your boat and fit your needs.
From a common sense perspective be sure that your enclosure protects the contents from the environment they are in adequately. i.e. NEMA 4 provides better "blowing" dust protection than NEMA 3, which is often important in many shop controls where the shop process makes dust that gets blown around, rather than just "falling" dirt/dust (which NEMA 3 is rated for.)
Not particularly familiar with "22mm" controls, most industrial controls I'm familiar with are mounted to DIN rail (35mm standard size, 32mm and 15mm smaller sizes, modules come in many widths along the rail.)


How can I locate the doorbell transformer?

Typically, the doorbell transformer will be on or near the main service panel.

This is usually, done to save money on wire. If the transformer is mounted to the service panel, you'll only need about a foot or two of 14/2 cable to connect it (which can usually be reclaimed from scrap).  The rest of the wiring from that point on will be cheaper low voltage cable, since doorbells typically run on 24V circuits.


minor hairline crack on the base of a toilet, should I repair / replace?

You have to replace that toilet.  Sorry.  This thing will come apart.  You might be able to save the tank and just replace the bowl. But you will have to purchase the same manufacturer and a model that is compatible.


Why do pigtails not count towards box volume capacity

Using an NEC Handbook, which is the NEC with more information and comments, I find that the pigtails are currently counted as part of the device fill rather than a separate conductor. All of this can be found in Article 314.16 and the associated tables.
The NEC Handbook has a set of separate commentary tables. In particular, Table 314.3 shows how different device allowances change based on the number of conductors are attached to it.


Why do I have spots showing through on stained pine?

I believe you have to seal the wood with varnish before staining.  The softness of the pine absorbs the stain irregularly and may be causing the spots.


How do I avoid breaking the screwhead with Impact Driver

For speed and precision, I do two things.

I pre-drill the hole.  That is especially important on hardwood.  I often use special drill bits made for screws which include the countersink.

I drive with a speed wrench and a bit holder.   This gives speed, control and superb tactile feedback that tells you immediately when you are having some kind of a drive problem.  Once you get the knack, it becomes basically impossible to break a screw.

Also, I don't use drywall screws for anything but drywall.  If you want a screw like that, use deck screws and consider star or square drive.


What is the cheapest/easiest way to make bookshelves?

Trimming out DIY-assembled shelves is a common way to go about it. Ikea, of course, being a popular source for the DIY shelves to use.

The basic premise is buy your shelving system, assemble it, then use trim stock to finish it off to give it the look of a built-in or single unit.


Is pressure grouting of a wall-crack, a good or potential solution?

It is a potential solution.  Buildings will settle and they usually do around 2-5 years of structure being built.

The question is, is this normal structure settling or does this building have some issue that will cause it to move more.  It hasn't moved in the past year so I could really go either way with this.

Pressure grouting could work.  It will allow very little movement but some.  The worst case scenario is you have hairline cracks a year or a few years later after doing this.  If water isn't an issue and you can live with the small cracks than I give this a strong maybe.

I would normally suggest going with an epoxy solution that would be stronger and have more flex.


it's not a connection issue, those don't get better over time. your driver is failing because the capacitors in it are drying out. this will get worse sooner than later.

As the LED strip warms, it uses more current. To supply more current, the driver increases its output voltage. When the voltage increases, a cap of a given capacity stores more energy. When the voltage catches up with demand, the flickering stops. Note that higher voltages tend to heat the capacitors and cause them to age even faster; a run-away cycle you're in the early stages of.


Can modern surge protector strips still catch fire?

If there is not a thermal disconnect (many do not have) the MOV can catch fire, the way MOV's work is once a spike is of sufficient voltage it will break down and dump the excess voltage to ground or neutral depending on how it's wired. If the spike is large enough or having a long time duration the MOV over heats and usually blows itself apart. The case of the device usually contains the electrical fire as required by UL to be listed. Higher end units do have thermal protection but when these devices open the circuit the protection is usually gone. MOV's can take thousands of hits but go beyond there ability to dissipate the heat and they need to be replaced. This is why most whole house protection units have lights to show if the unit is still functional. Some of the larger models have replaceable blocks that are Basicly large MOV's with a temp sensor that opens once the heat exceeds the mfg rating (think of a thermal fuse like on a dryer or coffee maker)


It's part of the recommended maintenance for the heater, so there's definitely value in it.  No matter how clean your water supply, there's always going to be some amount of sediment getting through, sand and grit or dissolved minerals.  As the water sits in the heater's tank, that can settle out and build up on the bottom of the tank.

How much does it cost to heat a 50gal water tank from the temperature the of the water mains? 50gal = 50*3.785 = 189.25 L.  Specific heat of water is 4.186 J/g/°C, so it will take 4.186 * 1000 * 189.25 = 792.2 kJ to raise all the water in the tank by 1°C.  Assume the water comes in at 50°F/10°C and your water heater is set for 150°F/66°C, so you need 792.2 * 56 = 44.363 MJ.  One unit or kWh of electricity has 3.6 MJ and electric water heaters are around 90% efficient these days, so you need about 13.5 kWh to heat the water to your set point.

In my area, electricity costs are about 10¢/kWh, so it would cost about $1.35 to flush and reheat the water tank.  You only need to do it about once a year (and you could maybe get away with doing it less often if you had very clean water and lived in a soft-water area).  Over the life of a water heater, you're looking at less than $20; compare that with the $100s that a new water heater costs.

Besides, won't you feel better knowing you don't have all that gunk in the bottom of your water heater? :)


Newly installed water heater with faint gas smell

You have used the wrong type of teflon tape - for gas the thicker yellow teflon tape should be used.  Another option which many prefer is to use a pipe sealant like RectorSeal.

If after replacing the white teflon the smell persists I would check the other end of the gas line.  It's possible that when removing the old gas line an existing fitting was loosened and is now leaking slightly.


Are there fans for radiators to improve performance?

An alternative that might work in some rooms is a ceiling fan that has a low speed (we have some 6-speed models in our home where the lowest speed just circulates the air slightly).   This would help move air around in the room (and thereby helping to move some heat away from the radiators) and has the added plus that you can use it on higher speeds for summer cooling.

We have forced hot air heat, and our master and living room have high ceilings, so we run the fans year-round.


Possible reasons are:
1) All the rows are the same brand/Type but the first two rows purchased were purchased and installed sometime in the past, maybe a year.  The third row is the same brand, but was recently purchased.  The vendor made an improvement to the driver circuit and removed the delay.  The original two had the delay, but since they came on at the same time you did not notice until the newer lights were installed.  You could test this by disconnecting the third row and see if the first two rows still has the delay.

2) the third row is a different brand, with a better circuit design that eliminated the delay start.  In reality, this is the same as #1, with the third row of lights having the latest circuit design that eliminated the delay.

I purchased three sets of ceiling lights, same brand /model on sale, and the internal circuit, driver, and placement of the driver for the LEDs were different in all three sets.  Improvement in LED lighting is constantly evolving.


Yes, in the US under the NEC and most local codes, kitchen counters require that receptacle are spaced no more than 4' apart.
Also, any counter space 12" or wider require a receptacle.

Bear in mind, breaks in the counter like sinks or ranges do not count as counter space.


The stacking kits I have seen would work equally well for two dryers.  The washer needs to be on the bottom because of weight and vibration: the dryer on top, so you're fine.

Separate vents are required, else exhaust air from one dryer will enter room through the other dryer.


As Ryan said you can solder it (either with soft solder or silver solder use flux will make your life easier to) or you can just use a rubber repair on it either buying a propritory type or just making it your self out of a piece of rubber and a couple of hose clamps.

This is a plumb-quik from Fernco

Keep in mind that you don't have to use the whole thing you can cut it open so it is easy to slide over the pipe and put the cut at the top of the copper pipe then put your hose clamps on and tighten it up . I've used this technique to repair a 6" stormwater pipe that was cracked and was a pressurized pipe with no problem.

Another easy way is to use Ferropre or similar a two part epoxy that sets like a rock and sticks to pretty much anything

If you are going to use Ferropre put on disposable gloves, get a bucket of water and mix the two parts together in the water it makes it much easier to handle as it doesn't stick to your gloves as much then once mixed just smear it over the holes in the pipe.


Trying to identify the neutral in my switch box for home automation switch.

Yes, and yes.

If properly wired (and this is always a potential issue), neutral wires are white. Hot wires are black, red, sometimes blue or other colors except white and green (which is reserved for ground).

Basic switches that have no electronic components simply make or break the hot wire. One side is hot and the other side is switched hot. Modern switches also have a ground, which is green or bare.

More complex switches, such as electronic dimmers, some lighted switches, wifi switches and others also need a neutral.

In the switch you have shown, the two hot contacts are attached to the black wires shown. If your switch has its own wires, the white wire is attached to the existing pair of white wires, and the proper sized wire nut then put back on.  A white pigtail (a short length of the same gauge wire) should be connected to the neutral terminal of the switch if it doesn't have its own wire.

The two existing black wires should be attached to the hot terminals on your new switch. Also attach the ground wire to your switch, either directly to the ground terminal or to the ground wire.

If your switch needs a specific connection to the hot wire (also called line), you will have to test to see which of the black wires is hot and which is switched. If so, ask and we will explain how to test.


California code requirements for electrical panel placement height

There's no minimum height in the National Electrical Code, that I'm aware of. The maximum height, is based on the maximum height of the breakers that are contained within the panel. NEC says the center of the grip of the handle of the highest breaker, can't be higher than 6'7".

Contact your local government to determine if there's a local amendment, that sets a minimum height.


What can I do about a house with internal concrete floor with no DPM?

(I'm assuming that you are in the UK).

Concrete floors without DPM are not unusual in houses of that age, so there is a possibility that it's not a cowboy job. The broken bitumen you mention was probably the remnants of an asphalt DPM over the slab. The wood has (as you suggest) likely been used to level the concrete. If they were previously joists for a suspended floor, some have certainly been removed, as the spacing is way to wide for floor joists.

Without ripping the floor up, I can see two basic options:

1: Fill the gaps with concrete and get an asphalt company to lay an asphalt screed over it to restore the DPM.

2: Fill the gaps with concrete, lay a DPM over it, insulation, then a concrete / fibre screed. Note though that this will raise the floor level by 75-100mm (depending on the insulation).

In terms of concrete, as it looks like it's not a structural element, you could just use a "basic" 4:2:1 concrete mix (4 parts stone, 2 parts concreting sand, 1 part OPC). Add enough water to make it workable, but not so that it gets sloppy.


I fixed the problem so I may as well answer my own question.

The spout was detachable from the pipe (it is held on by a mechanism
which can be loosened by a hex wrench -- the nut is on the underside
of the spout)
Once the spout is removed, you can caulk the gap where the pipe goes
through the hole in the shower enclosure, and then re-attach the
spout. There's no need to caulk around the spout itself.
I was able to re-attach the spout so there was not such a wide gap
between it and the enclosure, though that's more of a cosmetic
improvement than anything else.

There is a video of someone doing this repair here.


How do I attach a motion activated flood light to stucco?

I would not recommend gluing it.  If it comes off (wind, animal), it is going to likely pull the stucco off with it in which case you have a big problem and possibly costly repair.

I would just use the screws since it is easier to fill two small holes then fix a large patch of stucco.  Make sure to use screws long enough to penetrate the solid material behind it; at least 1 1/2" wood screws.


How do I replace a GFCI breaker with a normal breaker?

First, it sounds like the old breaker is a GFCI or AFCI, and the new one is not. Changing types like that is likely a code violation and can compromise the safety of your electrical system. Do not do this unless you know why a GFCI or AFCI breaker was installed and that you have removed the conditions from that branch circuit that required their installation.

Second, since you are asking this type of question, you likely don't have the experience to do this safely. At this point, I recommend you hire an electrician.

If you insist on continuing and have confirmed that it is safe to remove the GFCI or AFCI breaker, then start by tracing the white wires. One should be going to a bus bar in the breaker box and the other should be exiting the box with the black wire. Disconnect the one wire from the bus bar, and connect the other one to the bus bar in its place.


It seems your fill valve is stuck in the off position.

I don't have that particular type of valve but I'd try wiggling the moving parts (the blue parts probably) to see if that frees things up.

The instructions show how to check the valve and replace the seals.

I'd turn main stopcock off, pull that valve cover off, clean all moving parts up and replace them.

If still not working , you may have to turn off the water and replace the seals with new parts or replace the whole valve with a new unit.


Wiring for an emergency generator interlock

Edit because I can now see your pictures:
Best bet if it's a convertible panel
Call around to electrical supplies until you find an Eaton dealer.  Give them your panel model number and ask them if it's convertible to main-breaker and if Eaton has a factory generator interlock for it.   I have a feeling it's convertible because some features in the top area (like those funny pillars) don't make any sense otherwise.
Wow, that was super easy.
If it's NOT convertible, note the sticker "Use in Box G1 size (indoor) or G1R size (outdoor) panel". That refers to the steel enclosure (the thing 14" wide by 30" or so tall).  Search for a panel that uses the same exact box as yours that is convertible - example, a BR4040N200R panel.   Pull all the breakers and tuck them back, and remove the two fat hot wires.  Then remove the screw now hiding under the bottom breaker and the screw between the pillars up top. There may be 1 or 2 more screws, and voilà, the bus assembly pops right out.  Do the same to the breaker panel you just acquired, and swap the bus assemblies. Also swap lids. You have replaced your entire panel with astonishingly little work, because you picked exactly the right donor panel.   Now you have a convertible panel; proceed as above.
The next best thing: Backfeed a breaker
Another option in this panel is to fit a 125A breaker in the top position of your panel, and backfeed that.  (Sadly BR does not make a 200A plug-on breaker, and you can't use any other brand. So you'll lose a lot of usable ampacity.)  You would remove the feed wires from the main lugs, and reroute to the backfed breaker.  Then use a backfeed style interlock (BRPMIKBR) to interlock that with your generator breaker.   Most likely these (4/0?) Al wires won't fit on the breaker so you'd need to change to 2/0 Cu.
If you can't make your panel convertible, use a transfer switch
That's your idea, and yeah, sure, I don't see any problem with that.  You could use a main-lug panel and the kind of interlock kit where two "normal" breakers backfeed and are interlocked.   One breaker is "Utility" and the other is "generator".  Both backfeed the bus of that panel.   Then off the main lugs of that panel, go onward to your large existing panel.
If you feel weird backfeeding and sending power "upward" through the main lugs, then mount the panel upside down so the main lugs exit the bottom. Then just pretend they're feed-thru lugs lol.
Edit: One big snag with this is your 200A service.  That's an awful lot to backfeed into regular breakers simply because 200A regular breakers are scarce. What you need is a panel type that both a) supports 200A branch circuit breakers, and b) has an appropriate interlock.   That's a scarce combination - for instance Square D's lowbrow HOMeline is deprived of many features, but it actually does have a 200A branch circuit breaker (HOM2200BB)... unfortunately not a factory interlock, so you'd have to go to the aftermarket.
Probably a better bet to go with any of the numerous of 200A main-breaker panels out there with 4-8 breaker spaces and feed-through lugs, such as the BR816N200RF.  You could stick the generator breaker in one of the normal spaces and use a standard factory interlock, then feed the big panel off the "feed-through lugs".  The only problem is, the boxes are gigantic (for cable bending space reasons).
Either way, the above boxes could actually stand in as a substitute for your current 200A main breaker/disconnect (that's kinda what they're for)... if you wanted to get into pulling the meter / pulling permits / inspection to get the power turned back on etc.
But if you're going with a gigantic panel anyway...
... just have a second main panel and call it good. Another 200A main breaker, this time panel right next to your existing panel, with interlock.  It's fed with 200A wire either from your main breaker outside, or the panel next to it via double-lugs or "tee" Polaris connectors.  Serving 200A wire to both panels is fine.  This lets you take a clean-slate approach without having to move all your circuits. Simply move the circuits that you want on generator.
Or if you're moving circuits anyway... go with a smaller panel.
This lets you use a more compact subpanel such as a BRP20L125, with two backfed breakers interlocked. One backfed breaker comes from generator, the other from the large panel where it's fed from a breaker there.   Then you move into this subpanel any circuits you want on generator.


This style center screw extends into the outlet: it's possible both parts need replacing.  Pull on the cover to add tension when removing the stripped screw.

Turn off the juice before taking the cover off.

Your new 'in service' cover comes with a foam gasket: do not use caulk.

Your existing box is probably fine, but when things are open evaluate if caulking is needed around the box (not the cover, the wall box).

But this is outdoors, right?  That outlet should be 'GFCI' protected.  And for that I recommend you hire a professional, or find a handy neighbor/friend/relative. Typically a GFCI outlet is placed right in the box, and it uses one large square opening, not the style shown in the picture. Other configurations are possible.


How to determine if my house is continuing to settle?

If you really want to go there, you need something that will serve as a reliable reference, which I don't see a "now angled trim piece" as fulfilling. It's what's known as a benchmark, and should be something that does NOT move (so if you think the building is moving, you need a benchmark that's not connected to the building.) If you stick with things in the house you can see any relative movement, but only that. A chimney foundation is a typical "relative in-house point."

Realize also that porches are never (properly) built level or flat - they may indeed settle due to substandard foundation, but when properly built in the first place they have a drainage slope away from the house.

Typical things that are used for benchmarks are a pin in exposed bedrock, a bridge abutment or similar solid foundation, or a well casing. Something that is not annually moved by frost... Official benchmarks can be found on topographic maps (marked BM plus an elevation) and you will usually find a 3-4" round marker with a punchmark for the actual point in real life. But unless one happens to be near your house, you would probably just try to pick something that is near your house that would serve as a local benchmark to see if your house is moving.

I would in general agree that if it's got apparent motion at 100 years old, something above the foundation is more likely, unless the soil is in some way unstable under it.


You could probably use Flex Couplings like these:

To connect a pipe to an elbow, you'd have to find a coupling
which fits both the outside diameter of the pipe, as well as the outside diameter of the elbow.
Something like this one might be flexible enough to both stretch over the elbow and still clamp tightly onto the pipe:

https://www.plasticpipeshop.co.uk/75-89mm-EPDM-Adaptor_p_6140.html
or otherwise possibly one of the reducing versions which have a different size on each side.


What type of tube does this fitting take?

Unplug the fixture or turn off the circuit, unscrew the screw that is visible and its related screw(s), read the information on the ballast (which should be inside the area the screw gives access to.)


One dodgy lamp: Differential is triggered and several separate circuit breakers become differential-triggering. How is that even possible?

Perhaps a neutral-to-ground short in the lamp, which is not disconnected by opening its breaker, is creating a current path impacting other circuits.  I can't say exactly how as I don't know exactly how the multiple RCDs on a panel interact with one another through their common ground and neutral bus.  But it's the only possible explanation.  I'm guessing you are in a home with European-style RCD groups controlling everything in the house, is that right?


What does "bonding" mean with respect to wiring in an outbuilding?

Bonding in the context you have provided means to connect or otherwise attach one item to another. Your grounding electrode system can be and frequently is an eight-foot copper clad rod embedded in the ground. Depending on the composition of your earth, it may be necessary to increase the length and depth. Consult your local codes regarding earth ground requirements.

The other part of the bonding is the segment of copper wire attached to the aforementioned ground rod. That is frequently a simple clamp available at big-box hardware stores and is called a grounding clamp. Imagine that. The ground wire also should meet local codes regarding wire gauge, often number six gauge (or at least in my area it is) and is fastened to the ground rod at one end and secured to the enclosure/panel at the other. The ground at the panel shares the connection with the ground lug for the breakers as well.


What are these transformers in my garage for and how do I disconnect them?

One of them (top picture) is your door bell, and the second one could be the garage opener, sprinkler controller, or low voltage lighting of some sort.
Typically, there is an electrical box behind it and it is 120v. You can use ether multi-meter or electrical tester like this to determent if the wires are hot or not and shut one breaker at the time. Sometime there might be a label in your service panel for those.


Baseboard heat - Installed and then drywall around

I do not think that you will be able to use any of the products you mentioned since they both fit over the whole wall mounted baseboard enclosure. Your enclosure is installed as you said, with the drywall set on top of the enclosure so you do not have access to the back of the enclosure. I have only seen this type of installation done once before. I do not know the company that installed them that way but "what a mistake". You will probably be limited to either painting what you have or trying to buy new enclosures from the same manufacturer as those installed. Good luck in your search for a fix.


How is this pipe removed? Seems to have 2 points to be released

That looks like a double-ended compression coupling.  It is used because most people cannot spin their sinks or houses around to unscrew them.

Use a pipe wrench to unscrew both ends of that coupling to gain better access to the pipe.


Where do I need to insulate my house to help avoid ice dams?

Ice damns are caused by heat rising to the underside of the roof, heated it and melting the snow, where it refreezes as ice.

You need to make sure no hot air is leaving your house - insulate thoroughly.

Airflow is also crucial - make sure you leave baffles to provide airflow from the eaves to every part of the attic. If you have a "one and a half" or similar you need to provide that channel of air between the corner (of roof) crawl spaces and the proper attic.

A well ventilated attic, with no heat bleeding into it, will not ice dam!


No, you MUST NOT run it on a 30A or 32A ring final circuit.

The only things that can be connected to a ring final circuits are 13A sockets (single or double) or a 13A fused connection unit. Every connection or appliance on the ring must be protected by a max. 13A cartridge fuse to BS1362.

  Fixed loads fed by the ring must be locally protected by a fuse of
  rating no greater than 13 A or by a circuit breaker of maximum rating
  16 A.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.3.2.htm (this book does not cite the latest Edition of the Wiring Regs, but the stipulation is still in force).

The safety of the ring circuit (where individual 'legs' are rated at 20A) relies on the load being spread more-or-less evenly around the ring. Putting a 30A load at one point could seriously overload the ring unevenly.

Regulation 433-02-04 of BS 7671 requires that the installed load is distributed around the ring such that no part of the cable exceeds its capacity. (That reference number may not be from the latest Edition of the Wiring Regs, but the stipulation is still in force).

At 7 kW, that appliance requires a dedicated 30A or 32A circuit from the fuseboard/consumer unit.

As you have a fuseboard that uses rewireable or cartridge fuses (at 30A for a ring final circuit fuse, rather than 32A for a MCB) it is unlikely that you have a RCD (residual current device, which protects against earth faults). Any new circuit must be protected by an RCD unless it is wired in steel conduit or cable incorporating a metallic shield. In domestic installations, this requirement usually indicates a fuseboard upgrade to a modern consumer unit is required.

The only way you can run that appliance from a ring circuit through a fused connection unit (FCU) is if there is an installer settings menu that will limit the maximum total load to less than 3 kW.


Should I try to use mortar and smooth out the surface and make it 90 degree as possible?

NO- any such patch would be likely to adhere unsuccessfully and would crack and come loose.

  ...install tiles with thinset and try to make the tiles as level and as 90 degree as possible by adjusting the thinset amount?

YES- it should be fairly easy to run thick with your thinset, or back-butter the tiles to build it up.
However, I question the need to do so.


I would not try to find parts if you have acces to the connections.  I would convert to pex then install a new frost free faucet.

Replacement if you know EXACTLY what parts to buy, with the proper tools on hand, and a single trip to the parts store should take around an hour.

Fixing your existing frostfree, locating parts, turning the main on and off, ect could take days if you have to wait on parts after you spend hours trying to find them.  Further at the end of it all you STILL might need to replace the faucet.

Your time has to be worth something right?

Without knowing what to buy and without the proper tools, you are probably looking double to triple the time for either option.

If the connections are not accessible; everything might change.

If you don't like to do what it takes to get to the connections (to dirty, to cramped, etc), pay someone else to and make money to pay them doing something more preferable.


Suggestions on finishing a concrete vault

A hundred years ago, that would be called a 'root cellar', and considered a great place to keep your potato crop or smoked meats.  The temperature will be relatively constant down there because of the ground contact.  Insulating will actually reduce that thermal buffering effect given the vents.

Your problem for guns and art is humidity.  I'd start by measuring the humidity to see where you stand.  A USB hygrometer is an inexpensive tool for plotting humidity over time, and you'll want that even if you go all modern and try to seal the room.


This is EXACTLY WHY connections should be in a fixture or junction box!  You may have had a short directly in contact with wood.   If it were my house, I'd carefully open up that and after determining where exactly the wire goes (so as not to damage it further), cut an opening for a fixture box.  A rotozip would be a good tool to use.  Be sure the power is off to the circuit.  You might be able to fit an "old work" box like this. This would also expose a bit more of the cable to inspect for damage.  The wire might be a bit short to meet code, but that's something you could probably live with.
If you're not comfortable doing this, yes, call a pro.
  Old work box


Are there any options for connecting into main stack for venting branch below waterline?

The short answer is: No.

However, there are some other alternative solutions to avoid running another pipe outside the house you should consider:

Studor Vents

As N R stated, you can can use what are called 'air admittance valves' or 'Studor Vents' which are essentially just an air 'check valve' that allows the air to go into a pipe and is suppose to stop it from going back out of the pipe (so you don't smell swear gas).  The problem with these is that they don't always close unless there is a significant back flow of air, which is why they aren't always legal to use.

Chicago Vents

Alternatively, it seems unlikely  to me that you would have no other fixtures on the same floor that are already vented.  Consider running horizontally.  If your horizontal access to a vent would require you to go below run the vent piping below the wet line to you can use what is called a "Chicago Vent"


Drywall over irregularly spaced studs - how do I secure edges?

The edges of your drywall pieces must be on studs - at least two of them and preferentially all four.  (some drywall guys will vastly disagree with needing 4 so not trying to start a war)

But two is a must.  Your drywall should end on stud or be butted up in the center with another piece of drywall.  Either cut your drywall or add more studs.  There is absolutely nothing wrong with 17-19" on center which sounds like about 3 studs per sheet.  I have run into this with old houses.  Just buy 15 2x4s and throw them up where you need them.


Power supply and dimmer/pot specs needed for LED A19 bulb in DIY desk lamp

an a19 has an e26 base, so its designed to operate on line voltage.  so you need to have a dimmable led bulb with an e26 base.  dimming will have to be done with a proper ul listed dimmer switch in an appropriate metal device box.  you cannot use a potentiometer for this.  you do not need a power supply if the bulb is designed for line voltage.  you can find hundred of videos on this sort of stuff on youtube or you can try www.make.com


What's the fastest way to strip paint off of a piece of installed trim/moulding?

The least time route would definitely be the "remove the trim and replace with fresh" route.

However, this would depend on you being able to get a suitable replacement.

Heat gun is quite quick, but you have to be careful of a) the chemicals released when heating the paint and b) not scorching the wood. Heat guns shouldn't really be used where you've got lead based paint.

Chemicals will be useful where you've got delicate/intricate mouldings but will probably take the longest as you might need several applications if you've got lots of layers of paint.

You will definitely need to sand the mouldings if you use a heat gun, you may have to if you use chemicals. This might not be practicable for delicate/intricate mouldings.


How can I tell if the bladder in my water tank is damaged?

If you measure 0 psi when the tank is empty, it means the tank is not charged. Try adding air through the Schrader valve. If you can't get the pressure to increase and hold, the bladder is bad.

If you measure the pressure at the Schrader valve when the tank is connected to the plumbing, you'll always measure the water pressure in the plumbing. The tank must be isolated from the plumbing, to measure the air charge pressure.


What type of switch will allow two lights to operate individually or all at once?

If you want a single control to do this, look at multi-position rotary or slide switches. It's fairly common to have a switch that connects a common to two outputs (let's call them A and B) and gives you the choices  off, A only, A and B, or B only. Variants which drop one of those options are also readily available.

Switches of this sort are often seen in multi-bulb table lamps that offer several settings. They used to be common in stereo components to select which of two sets of speakers will be powered. They're also used in slightly modified form as the pull-chain switches that control ceiling fans.

A good electronics supply house should have several alternatives which meet your needs, differing in size, in how they're mounted, in the kind of knob they have (or the shaft to which you can attach a standard knob), how much voltage and current they can tolerate, and so on. You may still be able to find suitable switches at Radio Shlock, though they've phased out most of their hobbyist-friendly parts department.


How do I wire a GFCI receptacle using two black wires and two white wires?

Understand the circuit
A standard duplex receptacle functions as both a receptacle, and as a junction.  It allows you to connect cord-and-plug devices to the circuit, while at the same time allowing other hardwired devices to be connected to the circuit. Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles are similar, however, they offer ground-fault protection to all connected devices. To offer this protection, GFCI receptacles have two specific sides.
Line VS. Load
The Line side of a GFCI receptacle is where the feed line connects, to supply power to the device.  The Load side of a GFCI receptacle is used to feed other devices, while offering them GFCI protection.
Find the line
Before you can figure out how to connect the device, you have to determine where the power is coming from, and where it's going to. To do this, you'll need a non-contact voltage detector, and a few twist-on wire connectors.

Turn off the circuit using the circuit breaker or fuse.
Verify the power is off using a non-contact voltage detector.
Remove all the wires from the receptacle, and place a twist-on wire connector on each wire individually.
Turn the power back on at the breaker/fuse.
Carefully, move the non-contact voltage detector near each wire.
When the meter lights up, mark the wire in some way.
Turn off the breaker/fuse again.

In this procedure, only one wire should make the meter light up.  If more than one wire caused the meter to light, contact a local licensed Electrician.
Now that you've located the ungrounded (hot) Line conductor, you'll have to also locate the Line grounded (neutral) conductor.  To do this, simply follow the wire you marked in the previous step back to where it enters the box.  You should notice that the wire is grouped with one to two other wires.  The wire you found to be hot should be black, and it should be grouped with a white, and possibly uninsulated or green wire. These wires make up the Line feeder.
Hook it up
GFCI protection to downstream devices

Connect the black wire from the Line feeder to the brass screw terminal on the Line side of the GFCI receptacle (The receptacle should be clearly labeled LINE), the white wire from the Line feeder to the silver screw terminal on the Line side of the receptacle.
Next connect the black wire from the other group of wires to the brass screw terminal on the Load side of the GFCI receptacle, and the white wire to the silver screw terminal on the Load side of the GFCI receptacle.
Connect all the uninsulated/green wires together with an extra bit of uninsulated/green wire (about 6" long), using a twist-on wire connector or crimp connector.
Connect the other end of the extra bit of wire to the green (ground) screw terminal on the GFCI receptacle.

Once you restore the power to the circuit, all the devices downstream (on the Load side) from the GFCI receptacle will be GFCI protected.  If this is not the desired outcome, please follow the steps below.
No GFCI protection to downstream device

Connect the black Line feeder to the other black wire and an extra bit of black wire (about 6" long), using a twist-on wire connector.
Connect the other end of the extra bit of wire to the brass screw terminal on the Line side of the GFCI receptacle.
Connect the white Line feeder to the other white wire and an extra bit of white wire (about 6" long), using a twist-on wire connector.
Connect the other end of the extra bit of wire to the silver screw terminal on the Line side of the GFCI receptacle.
Connect all the uninsulated/green wires together with an extra bit of uninsulated/green wire (about 6" long), using a twist-on wire connector or crimp connector.
Connect the other end of the extra bit of wire to the green (ground) screw terminal on the GFCI receptacle.
Leave the sticker covering the Load side terminals of the GFCI receptacle.

WARNING: If you lack the tools, knowledge, and/or confidence to complete this task, please do not hesitate to contact a local licensed Electrician.


Is my plan for wiring ethernet reasonable?

(Lots of) Home runs are good

You are correct that you want to run a cable to each room from the central switch. In fact, I would run at least 1 more cable than you think you will need to each room, and consider running a line or 2 to other rooms as well - especially if your walls are open. Cable is cheap, and pulling 4 cables instead of 3 is no more work when done at the same time. If you decide later that you want a 4th jack, you either need a small switch (which does limit bandwidth, not really increase latency) or you need to open walls again to pull that 4th cable.

Use a patch panel

Rather than run the cable from the big switch to each room, you should have a patch panel in between. Patch panels basically change the type of connection on the cable (the back is a 110 punch down block, front is an RJ-45 jack), and are a simple pass-through.

This is to ease installation. Pulling cable through walls is best done when the cable is un-terminated. Terminating the cable (i.e., putting the RJ-45 jacks on the end) can and is done, but punching the cable down into a patch panel is so much easier, especially for someone who has never done it before (and it sounds like neither you nor your electrician has). The cost is marginal (again, go bigger than you think you need now), but you save on headaches during installation.

You would then get keystone jacks that allow you to punch down the cable on the other end:

You shove these into wallplates on an electrical box or low-voltage plate:

They make wall-plates with different numbers of openings (usually 1-6), so you can get what you need for each room.

Finally, you would need short (1-2 ft) "patch" cables to connect the patch panel to the big switch. Buy these cables pre-made, as you won't be able to make your own for less. These are typically stranded cable, as it's more flexible.

Your final setup would look something like this:

(the top-most device with jacks is the patch panel, the middle on is the switch, and the bottom would be your router)

Buy solid copper UTP (unshielded twisted pair) cat5e or cat6 cable, rated properly (usually CMR for typical in-wall installation, but you'll need Plenum if you plan to run it in HVAC ducts), and buy multiple boxes if possible. Standard is 1000 ft but smaller lengths are available, and they come in all different colors. A decent-sized house could take 2000-3000 ft of cabling or more, depending on how many runs and where the network closet is. Again, the more boxes you have, the easier installation will be (you typically pull 1 from each box at the same time, so if you want 4 runs to a single location, having 4 boxes is easiest).

If you want things a little cleaner, you can get a wall-mounted mini rack as well:

Just make sure to get one that has the depth and vertical space (measured in "U") you need. They also make ones with hinges that make patch panel installation a bit easier.

Most product images taken from monoprice.com


Running romex in 20" attic space using pipe hangers

As mentioned in a comment, those are not listed to be used for electrical cables. If you are just running one cable in one run, just use regular NM cable staples like these:

If you are running multiple cables and would like to save some time, you can use "stackers" like these:

If you added another 2x4 to the side of the members that run perpendicular to your joists, you could also just use that as a raceway and run your cables in there.

Edit: To answer the second part of your question, it will be fine for the cables to be in the blow-in insulation. If you think you will be doing lots of work up there and changing things around later, you might to have the cable up higher so you can find them easier later. But that is personal preference.

You may also want to look at this question, it goes over the requirements for additional protection if the cables are in an accessible attic (vs one without access).