Depends. Remarking wires is not allowed in wires smaller than #4.  And we certainly don't mess around when wiring a hot tub, which can kill people.

If it's #6 or smaller wire

You splice a rope to it, and pull it all out.  Then you take two of the wires to the electrical supply house and trade them for a white wire of the same size and length, and a green ground wire of appropriate size and length (if the wire is #8 or #6 then the ground wire can be #10), a competent  electrical supply house will know. A big-box store like Home Depot will not.

A bare wire is allowed for ground if the wire is copper.

Then use the rope to pull the 2 blacks, white and green back into the pipe.

If it is #4 or larger

You obtain white and green tape. Big box stores sell this in a 5-pack with 3 other colors for $4.

Go back to the service panel and  unhook the wire on the ground bar (which might be the same as the neutral bar if it's a main, sloppy but legal). Insulate it with plain black tape.    Now go to the hot tub subpanel and attach one mystery black wire to the neutral bar, and insulate the other.    If the panel powers up and all the voltages are correct, you have found neutral.  Mark both ends of it liberally with white tape.

The remaining wire must be ground, mark it liberally with green tape and hook it back up.

That may seem a trite exercise if both wires land on connected or same busbars. It's not.  It's vital to know which is which, if the old main panel is ever made a subpanel, or if testing ever needs to be done particularly re: the GFCI.  What's more, given the critical life-safety role of hot tub wiring, any sign of unprofessional or imperfect work is something you really can't have the inspector seeing.  Especialy if you have done, or plan to do, more than one of them.


Custom-making vertical downpour showerhead from copper pipe?

What you're going for is flow and velocity to make for a good feeling shower.  There is absolutely no reason to assume that the cross-sectional area of the nozzle has to match that of the pipe, in fact you don't really want it to, you want the velocity coming out of the nozzle to be higher than that in the pipe, that's why you have a nozzle.  At any rate, the pressure drop across 256 (shouldn't it be 64?) 1/16" holes is a lot different than that across one 1/2" hole.

Nozzle making is tricky because there's a lot more that goes in to it than just the pressure and velocity.  There's friction, edge effects, and contraction at the holes.  There's even, as gbronner says, pressure drop through the line, but in a 3/4" manifold, the drop should be very small.  I'd say your best bet is to experiment.  Start with a small number of holes and work your way up until it feels right.  Looking at my own shower head, it has 45 holes which all look a bit smaller than 1/16th inch.  So maybe I'd start with 30?  The fewer

Your biggest problem will be getting them to point where you want them to go.  That can be a bear and I'm not sure I know of any way to solve that other than to drill and deburr the holes very carefully and, again, experiment.  Maybe even just start with a few.  You may be surprised at where the water wants to go.


Nest 3rd generation UK Install Terminals 4, 5 and 6 are used to connect cables that switch your domestic hot water on or off

From the following documents it seems to me that 2 & 3 (common and call-for-heat) are used to provide power to the zone valve (which presumably then provides power to pump and boiler as in a conventional system)

This assumes you installed the Nest-display so that it repurposed the old 240V thermostat wiring for 12V power from the Nest Heat-Link unit (T1,T2).

You should check this with the installation manual supplied by Nest or using the online configuration tools on the Nest web-site.

Nest Thermostat Installation Guide
How to install your Nest Learning Thermostat


What type of paint should I use on my hardwood floor?

If I were you, I'd invest in an oil-based (mineral spirits cleanup) primer. I've painted several old wood pieces of furniture and you need the adhesion to whatever they used on the wood previously. Remember, it's likely in an older house that they used all sorts of older oil stains on the floor and latex has a hard time gripping them. Oil-base primers can overcome that issue.

Once the floor is primed, you should be set to paint whatever product you see fit, latex or otherwise. If you paint latex, be sure to use a water polyurethane as well (which doesn't yellow). You might want the extra protection for the paint. A semi-gloss or hi-gloss paint might not stand up well to the traffic by itself.


How to remove mold from Styrofoam ceiling tiles?

[in the UK] I've just bought some 'Ronseal 3 in 1 mould killer' spray from B&Q -- also available on Amazon -- which has worked well on my polystyrene ceiling tiles in the bathroom. These were quite mouldy in places (due to problems with my roof).

The spray worked really well (and the spray mechanism was very effective - giving a good-coverage fine mist spray rather than dribbling out (onto me) or producing a 'squirt' covering only a small area).

I didn't try to remove all the mould-discolouration from the tiles as I will be painting over them (which is an option if you don't wish to remove the tiles from the ceiling as suggested by some. I'd love to get rid of my crappy ceiling tiles but I know I'd regret it given the resulting mess and cost to make it good).


Starter for fluorescent light fell in water

As long as the water is clean it will work. The main risk is that some amount of water will remain.

One solution is to fill a bucket with alcohol then dunk it in the bucket. The evaporation of the alcohol will take all the water with it and make it nice and dry. You can also sit it in the bright sun for a few days.


Which side up on installation of Fesco Foam Insulation?

The J-M Fesco data sheet shows the black TopLoc layer on top, with a glass reinforced facer on the opposite side.

The data sheet I saw didn't give many installation details, but I doubt a few fasteners with large washers would have a large impact on your thermal performance as long as they only cover a small percentage of the total surface area. Focus more on getting tight connections between the sheets and eliminating air leaks.


TL;DR Don't worry, be happy.
In my non-professional, non-government opinion, you are overreacting. The risk with asbestos (as with smoking, radon and many similar things) is repeated exposure. That doesn't mean a single exposure has no effect, but the big problem is with repeated exposure. Something like, tearing up a floor each day, 200 x a year for 20 years. Not "once". Plus, even though a KN95 mask may not be certified for asbestos, it will certainly help block the fibers. Certification is a tricky, and expensive, business. Especially in the past year, there are a lot of masks out there, of varying quality, that are not being certified for medical use or for asbestos or other specific things simply because any manufacturer right now, worldwide, can sell all the masks they can make as long as they meet some extremely basic design standards.
In general with asbestos, if you can cover it up, there is no danger. If there are other areas of the house (e.g., flooring in other rooms) that may have asbestos, you should probably get it tested first before working on it, or just cover it all up instead of rip & replace.


If it were my bathroom I would finish the wall with framing the way you have started. I perhaps would rip the 2X so it is tapered so I would not use so much wood. After that is done and drywall is up I would remove the 1/4 round at the window jamb and replace it with a jamb extension that would meet the face of the new wall. I would also "tweak" the dimensions of the jamb extensions so the taper is not as drastic and let the differences form the wall face get hidden by the trim.

In my opinion, it is much less noticeable to put the difference in the tweaked window jamb than have it where it is now.


Why is it good practice to remove sheathing from NM wire when going through conduit?

There is a widespread belief that the NEC does not allow NM-cable in conduit, but does allow THHN (the individual wires).  This belief is incorrect.

However, it is for some reason lesser-known that NM-cable cannot be used in outdoor conduit at all, stripped or otherwise.

So, the answer to your question is:  stripping is a common but misguided (unnecessary) practice when using NM-cable in indoor-conduit.  And it is not allowed at all when going through outdoor conduit, like in your case.


Can I remove the sheathing from cable just where it passes through conduit?

Romex is just a brand name. I assume you are referring to NMC 14-2 wire non metallic coating(house wiring). It can be run down the stud no problem about the cold. Conduit is not required just be sure that the wire is fastened to the stud within 12 inches of the box and no more than four and a half feet apart.


How can I wire my WIFI thermostat to control my millivolt fireplace?

You'll need a transformer to step down mains voltage, to 24 volts that the thermostat can use.  And you'll need a relay that can work with 24 volts.

You'll wire it up something like this.

When the thermostat calls for heat, the relay contact will be pulled closed.  This will signal the fireplace to turn on.

NOTE: the three contacts used on the thermostat are R, W, and C.  In the drawing the C may or may not look like a C, so I just wanted to make that clear.


What hardware was used for this handrail? What would you use?

That could be as simple as gas pipe surrounding a good sized lag bolt... If it was me, I'd counterbore the pipe about 1/2" into the post and rail to stiffen it up.


Subfloor: styrofoam insulation between sleepers or strapping on top of styrofoam?

My answer based on your choices

I'd be more worried about your sleepers rotting due to moisture seepage from the concrete than the heat.

You should  choose option 1 only if you have ground contact (GC) rated lumber, else you won't be to code and are likely to have issues later. As your surface is either at or sub-grade, the ground it self is going to be fairly resistant to changes in temperature already. Thus Option 2 isn't likely to provide much of a cost benefit with respect to thermal insulation.

Because you were using this wood for framing, I'll assume you don't have GC lumber, as such, you should choose Option 2. Option 2 not only provides the most insinuative value (as demonstrated in this video), it gives you the chance to buy treated lumber.

What I'd really do

If your plan is to eventually install tile or hardwood I'd just use your existing lumber over your existing styrofoam, add the extra height to your threshold, and trim your doors to size as this would give you the best value. Then take the money you saved and apply that to some floor covering as OSB doesn't take paint well.

Else, if you aren't sure what kind of floor covering you want, I'd recommend forgoing the time cost of installing a subfloor and just tell you to buy some high quality interlocking luxury vinyl plank (LVP) with a moisture barrier and insulation built in to install directly atop your slab. (Choose one with a deep groove for the interlock as the shallow interlocks tend to fail fail when the LVP is exposed to heat / sunlight)

Vapor Barriers

The best practice for vapor barriers is for them to be on the exterior (ground) side of your slab. If you slab was poured this way, adding a second vapor barrier is not recommended. However, you should still use GC lumber due to the condensate that will from on your slab during a warm humid day.

If you do add a vapor barrier on the interior of the house it should be between your wood-osb.  You should staple your vapor barrier into place (hard to do into cement) then use an appropriate tape to cove the holes. When you go to screw in your next next layer of material a wood-wood junction will be better at sealing the hole in your barrier caused by your screw than a wood-cement one.


What brand of faucet is this and how can I hook the sink sprayer up to it?

1) Price Pfister T26-4NRR Marielle Hole Kitchen Single Handle Faucet


Tempstar furnace, pilot light turns on then off in 1 second

Check to make sure the wiring for the flame sensor is properly connected, and the wire is not damaged. If that all seems good. Replace the flame sensor.  If the pilot is not proving, it's almost certainly because the flame sensor is not detecting it.

Flame sensors do go bad, but are typically a cheap replacement. However, it looks like the sensor in your furnace is part of a pilot assembly So it will be a bit more expensive, and a bit more difficult to replace.


Why would a 120v circuit work without a neutral?

It's using the earth as a return path

You really don't want to do that.  Dirt doesn't conduct electricity very well.

Your neutral is bonded to ground in your main panel.  The power company's transformer also bonds neutral to ground at the pole, and all your neighbors have neutral-ground bonds like yours.   The current is trying to return to source (neutral) via your ground rod, wet dirt between your homes or the transformer pole, their ground rods, and back to neutral.

You're measuring it and saying your hot is varying 0-60 volts.  No.  Hot isn't damaged, so it's exactly where it belongs at 120V.   Neutral has come UP to 60-120 volts!  And ground has come with it!  Because neutral is using your neutral-ground bond in the main panel, and lifting ground.   Which means your neutrals and equipment grounding conductor is floating 60-120 V above actual proper earth.  That's a good way to electrocute somebody because it means the grounded bodies of appliances or grounded equipment are also floating up to 60-120V!

Shut this off right now until it can be fixed.


How do I seperate the part in the middle in a clock mechanism?

The brass part may be ultrasonically welded into the plastic piece. The part is pressed into place under pressure with it being vibrated at the ultrasonic frequency. This causes the plastic to soften and flows around the brass part locking it into place. The brass piece often is made with groves or knurling on the sides which give the plastic something to flow around and keep the part in place.

In this case the hex shape on one side is part of the grip system that ensures that the brass part does not turn.

If you have ever used plastic project boxes they often have brass inserts that accept the screws that hold the lid on. These inserts are installed just like I describe above.

This all drives to the conclusion that if you try to remove the brass insert you will almost certainly destroy the black plastic piece. If not destroyed you would have to find some messy way to try to glue the brass piece back in place - - - if the glue/epoxy used even will bond with the plastic.


What is a good finish for a plywood benchtop?

I have a similar workbench but instead of finishing it, I screwed down (no glue) two layers of hardboard. It's cheap so I don't mind dinging it up and since it's only screwed down, it'll be easy to replace when it gets too dinged up.


Yes, the spring sizes are based upon the weight of the door. And sometimes a particular door can require two different size of springs. Door spring sizing and engineering is a very sophisticated science.  Your best bet is to have a pro come and replace the spring for you. (replacing an overhead door spring is a dangerous proposition.)

  ⚠Warning — Adjusting garage door springs can be extremely dangerous. The spring can move suddenly, causing serious injuries. Before you touch your own springs, learn how to release the tension safely.

If you feel like you are up to the task then first relieve the tension on the unbroken spring.  Remove the broken spring. Take it to a door shop and replace it like for like.  Install new spring and tension to specs. (The number of turns is based upon the height of the door.) (Tensioning with two different sized springs on one door is particularly tricky.)


Do I need to add the ground wires to plastic retro fitting lights?

I have some panel lights similar to these. The fixture cases are plastic and don't need to be grounded since you couldn't anyway.

Additionally, they are powered by low voltage DC so again don't need to be grounded.

The power supplies for the ones I have only have two wires feeding them, a hot wire and a neutral. No ground, since they are also all plastic.


The Beckett GeniSys™ Advanced Burner Control is used to control the operation of the furnace, and does not appear to supply an external C terminal.  However, you may be able to power the Ecobee using an additional 24Vac transformer.

If you have an A/C system that the Ecobee is controlling, you can power the Ecobee using the transformer in the A/C system.  Just connect the R wire from the A/C to Rc, and run a C wire from the A/C to the C terminal on the Ecobee.

If you're not controlling an A/C system, you'll have to use an external transformer (or if there's one in the furnace).  If there's a transformer in the furnace (in the control box with the CYGR terminals), then you should be able to use that (assuming it's connected to power on the primary side).  Simply run a (new or additional) thermostat cable from the furnace up to the thermostat. Then wire it as follows:

Remove any jumpers between R and Rc on the Ecobee.
Connect a wire from the R terminal on the control box in the furnace, to the Rc terminal on the Ecobee.
Connect a wire from the C terminal on the control box in the furnace, to the C terminal on the Ecobee.

Assuming the transformer in the furnace is powered, that should get you up and running.

  WARNING: Ecobee is an expensive piece of equipment, make sure you verify proper input voltages. You may also want to contact Ecobee support, to verify this is an accepted installation method.


Another option; use low wattage aquarium thermostat/heater like 25 watt ( maybe more for your location , my coldest weather is only about +20 F). Only turn on power when a few days of freezing weather is expected. If the power is left on a few days extra, the low power usage will not be high. The hoses need to be insulated as they will be the first things to freeze. The main concern is the surface of the water will freeze and build up pressure; For pools an inflatable bladder ( such as a tire inner-tube ) is anchored at the surface. Then the surface cannot make a pressure tight barrier permitting a pressure build up in the water.


Solution for covering carpet glued to concrete on a balcony

It's a pain in the neck but you need to remove and dispose of the carpet. Anything you put on top of it will only cover a nasty mess that will get worse over time.

Once the carpet is removed you will need to clean the cement of carpet glue. There are many videos and guides for how to remove carpet glue.

Once the cement is prepped you have options. The vinyl tile you mention needs to be rated for outdoor use. Sunshine is hard on plastics. You don't want to install something that will be as big a mess as the carpet later on.

Options:
Not a complete list...

Leave the cement plain. This is the lowest effort/cost solution.
Stain the cement. There is a trend toward stained cement. You'll need something that is outdoor appropriate. Lots of videos and guides on how to stain cement.
Outdoor tile - this isn't cheap but it is durable, easy to clean and looks nice.

I like to get an estimate for what it will take to hire work done. This tells me how much money I'm saving if I do it myself - makes me feel good. On the other hand, if the estimate is reasonable I might let them do the work!


How to power 12V LEDs from a 12V AC power supply

Not to get all techy on you, but to do what you want to do with a 12 vac power supply, you will need a bridge rectifier. Besides converting to 12vdc, you need to fill the 60 hz reverse polarity portion of the AC wave. This requires a voltage divider, then reassemble the two rectified polarity sections into one same, continuous polarity voltage source.  Keep in mind, if the AC source is sine wave AC, not switched AC, the DC result will only be apx 70% of the AC peak to peak voltage, or 17 vdc.  Think the geeks at electronics exchange may have a simple circuit  they could share with you. Realistically, since the Led lights probably have such a small amp draw, you probably could pick up a 24VDC power supply for cheap money online or maybe even your local Radio Shack, and save your self a lot of hassle.


Is my kitchen cabinet door beyond repair?

Plan A) I'd try to remove the glue, fill the holes†, let it set and then re-drill the holes

Plan B) Use repair plates designed for this job Example

Plan C) If all fails I'd spend $10 on one of these, put it in my old electric drill's chuck and relocate the hinges.

† Using maybe something like an "Interior Wood Filler that holds screws and nails".


The fixture needs black to black, white to white  and  ground to the mount or electrical box.  If this doesn't work, then you have an open neutral somewhere in the line and you need to find out where it is. You'll have to check everything on the circuit to determine where the open neutral is.  Do not keep the white wire connected to the mounting bracket (which is probably grounded),because you're completing the circuit through the ground path, This is dangerous, it could kill you.


Why doesn't my Trane rooftop furnace ignite?

CHECK FOR GAS AND THAT IT IS GOING IN THE RIGHT PLACE

I would check the gas pressure and the orifices or venturi. If a bug got in the orifice closest to the igniter gas will flow to the other burners but may not ignite. A bug in the venturi can disrupt the flow and cause a failure to ignite. Low inlet or outlet gas pressure could have the same effect.

This is in respect to a barbeque but the premise is the same
www.barbequeworld.com

This is where the orifices attach
www.repairclinic.com

And this is what the burner should look likewww.repairclinic.com


There may be an in-ceiling connector as well as the connections which are certainly in the tape, but if you cannot pull a connector down by gently pulling on the wires, and if you cannot access the ceiling space, then the following will work.

(1) BEST: Get somebody competent to assist or to do the job - you have less chance of dying that way.

Otherwise:
(2) The red and white wires provide power. Presumably this is AC mains - you did not say what the supply is but if the bulbs are 110V or 230V rated then mains AC is what is involved.

Mains voltage is, of course, capable of delivering a lethal shock - I know you know that but a reminder does not hurt.

Connection is made to the blue and brown wires inside the tape. If the person who did it was half competent they will have used a very compact joiner or will have soldered the wires together, but it is likely that they are just twisted together.

Ensure life insurance is up to date.
Ensure house insurance is up to date and that you are prepared to accept the worst case outcomes - eg house burned down, You or others dead.(Unlikey, but always be aware).
Then.

Turn light off then on with usual switch - now you know the switch works.
Leave the light ON.

Turn off circuit to light at switchboard so light goes out.
ie Turn off circuit breaker or remove relevant fuse.
Light is now OFF.

NOW turn off light at usual switch.
You now have two off switches. in series.

Tell everyone to not switch ANY light switches or power points. Your life just may depend on this.

Assume that there is AC mains power at light - there MAY be.
I have experienced AC mains present on a light socket under the conditions described above. Really!

Remove tape, assuming that either wire MAY be alive.
Red wire should be most likely to be live / Phase BUT no guarantee.

If wires are twisted together pull apart.
If a connector is used, discoinnect.
If soldered, unsolder or cut wires near to join in a manner which will allow you to rejoining OK. Using a connector - even a screw down "chocolate block" is preferred when reassembling. There is ample room for it in the ceiling space shown.

The unconnected green and yellow wire is for the earth wire that the lamp manufacturer thought that you should use but which the wiring person decided you did not need.

IF soldering with an earthed soldering iron be aware that  either wire COULD have mains voltage potential relative to earth.

Option (1) should be loooking more attractive.

Report back - inquiring minds want to know.


Where can I find information on making footbridges with a long span?

The Scout Pioneering website contains information on how to build several bridges. I am guessing that most of these are more complicated than what you had in mind, so if you want something simpler, you can attempt flat span bridge using 2x12's for a span between 14 and 18 feet. On the latter page the author goes on to say that "[i]f you are thinking of building any bridge with a span greater than 20 feet, you better get a structural engineer involved, plain and simple", which I am inclined to agree with.

Note that none of those links say anything about the actual load-bearing capacity of the bridges, but I would assume that most of them would work fine for one or a few people crossing at a time.

If you want to calculate maximum load, it is complicated, especially as the materials in the bridge are likely to deterioriate over time - especially if the environment is wet. Some simple calculators for point loads and distributed loads can be found online to give you an idea of what your bridge can take, but as they make clear on their website, they provide no guarantees. In other words, if you want someone to guarantee you that your bridge is safe, you'll most likely have to hire an engineer, as circumstances change from bridge to bridge.


How do I install the trap for a standard bathroom sink?

There are many ways to assemble the new drain. Assuming the 1 1/2" pipe is threaded:

1) screw an 1 1/2" ABS female adapter to the pipe.

2) using a short piece of 1 1/2" ABS pipe, glue an 1 1/2" ABS slip X slip elbow on, so it ends up facing out towards where the new trap will be.

3) glue a piece of 1 1/2" ABS pipe of appropriate length into the elbow (longer is better, you will be cutting this back later). This will be the pipe that protrudes through the drywall.

4) install drywall.

5) buy an 1 1/2" ABS P-Trap assembly, the "slip-joint" type (it will come in a complete kit).

6) install bathroom sink.

7) pre-assemble and dry fit everything, measure 3 times, cut once!

8) cut 1 1/2" abs pipe back and glue on the 1/1/2" ABS male adapter that came with the P-Trap kit.

9) assemble P-trap and adjust to fit. Your sink drain pipe (tailpiece) may be 1 1/4" but the P-trap kit comes with reducing nuts/washers to accommodate.

10) have rewarding beer for job well done. No leaks = no worries.


You're going to need a thin wall socket to fit over the white portion of the valve to remove it. You might be able to grab it with a pair of pliers straight down and twist counterclockwise. Measure the white nut flat side to flat side and check at your home store for a socket in the plumbing section, unless you have your own sockets.


Was the brick laid correctly in this wall?

First, you need to understand that that there are masonry walls that require a Building Permit and those that do not. If the wall is incorporated into a building or if you are located in a seismically active area or where there are high winds, then a permit is required (in the U.S.) and the wall must meet certain standards. If not, then anything goes as long as it’s not considered “dangerous”. (Because there is a meter base and hose Bibb roughed into the wall, I suspect a permit is required and must comply with applicable  Building Codes.)
Second, non-reinforced or partially reinforced masonry walls are not allowed if a permit is required.  (See ICC Chapter 21) (Many people think non-reinforced walls are acceptable for interior non load bearing walls. This is not true.) Reinforced walls have very strict requirements.
Third, you’ll need the wall tested (prism test) if a permit is required. Testing is going to be difficult because it’s usually done while the wall is being constructed. That way you’re using the same mortar mix for the test as was used for construction.
Yes, there are a few issues: 1) thickness of mortar joint (random is not allowed). 2) type of mortar mix (I doubt it complies with any mix design), 3) bond (random is not allowed), 4) ratio of reinforcement to masonry (wire will not be sufficient), 5) height to width of masonry (there’s a “slenderness ratio” that appears to have been exceeded), 6) bonding between bricks, mortar and rebar is nonexistent (basically there is a section of bricks 7-10 rows high sitting on a reinforced cage, but not connected), 7) if roof is to be installed on top of wall to reduce the “slenderness ratio” they will need their connections calculated.
You’ll need an architect or structural engineer to calculate the strength of the wall and prove to the Building Official that it’s acceptable.


can I change the galvanized nipple going into drain to PVC or other type of plastic?

Pipe dope is guaranteed to fill the gaps in the threads, but like @Hightower said, good quality tape seems right. Remember drains aren't under pressure, so either way is ok if you do a good job.


How grout entire floor without disturbing the grout?

You need to start at the furthest corner from your exit path and work your way out. Grout the entire floor at the same time or you may see color differences where you stopped then started again. Mix all the grout as a single batch (that is a fairly small area, it should not be too difficult).

Use your grout float to remove as much excess as possible as you work. I keep several buckets of water and several sponges and do a quick damp "dirty" sponge to the grouted areas as I work. You can use a spray bottle to give a slight misting to completed areas if you are concerned that you cannot work quickly enough. Cover unused grout in the bucket with plastic wrap, you can use this to repair any grout lines accidentally disturbed during the next steps.

When complete, let it set for 15/30 minutes then proceed with your sponging. It is important that you keep a "dirty" sponge and bucket (initial wipe), and a "clean" sponge and bucket ("clean" wipe). Wring out and rinse sponges after each wipe, and change water frequently.

Let it set overnight, then do a "haze sponging". Mix a small amount of vinegar (or muriatic acid) with clean water in a bucket and sponge the entire floor to remove remaining grout "haze".


How close can garage overhead storage be to fire sprinklers?

You should not store any items within 18" of the ceiling near a sprinkler head. The items can obstruct the water flow of the sprinkler if it goes off.

  NFPA 13 (2013), Clearance to Storage, has a requirement in 8.5.6.1,
  which states, "Unless the requirements of 8.5.6.2, 8.5.6.3, 8.5.6.4, or
  8.5.6.5 are met, the clearance between the deflector and the top
  of storage or contents of the room shall be 18 in. (457 mm) or
  greater."

  OSHA  29 CFR 1910.159(c)(10) in part states, "The minimum vertical
  clearance between sprinklers and material below shall be 18-inches
  (457 mm).

  The 18" should be considered a minimum vertical clearance. All items
  in the storage area must fall below this plane


3m Lead Test negative for days then turned positive?

The 3M site says this

  3M™ LeadCheck™ Swabs have no shelf life. Unless the ampoules/vials are cracked, they will have an indefinite shelf life.

In other words, once the vial is broken (which you did to use the tester), it does indeed have a shelf life


Can I run CAT5 cables parallel to low voltage (9v) power cables?

There's a decent probability that this won't work due to voltage drop from the power adapter, and not through interference:
Voltage Drop Calculator

A 15m run using 22AWG wires yields a voltage of 8 at the range extender. This may or may not be sufficient to power the extender.

Power over Ethernet devices typically use 48v to minimize the voltage drop.

Alternatively, you could use a wifi access point with a powerline ethernet adapter;  I've used this setup with great success.


why does my heat pump wiring diagram show 7 wires going to the thermostat but the thermostat only says it needs 5?

The below are all you have to worry about, Yellow need not be wired to Y at the air handler
as it is a dummy trminal for convenience, many simply run Y from the stat to the AC unit outside bypassing the Y terminal on the air handler.


strange issue in kitchen InSinkErator power outlet

The receptacle is switched, as garbage disposals usually do not have an on/off switch themselves. Make sure the switch is on, providing power to the receptacle.


These are usually a cam lock assembly. The insert needs to be turned about a half rotation to release it from the cam bolt.

Here is a picture of what one of these things look like.


Paint color with same codes do not match

The codes are nice, and they're usually pretty close.  But, especially at the retail level, it's not an exact science.  There can be variations even between buckets in the same purchase.

Based on advice from family who have worked as a painting contractors for decades...

When you buy paint, make sure to get enough for the entire job in one go.  Make sure it's all the same base.  I tend to go to dedicated paint stores rather then Lowes or Home Depot for significant jobs.  That's where the pros go for a reason.  They have better equipment & training and - in my experience - do a better job.

Mix well, scraping off the bottom - particularly if it's set awhile since the store shook it.  Get one of those drill operated paddles.

Have a few extra empty 5 gallon buckets (depending on size of the job)

Start the job by using those extra buckets to mix all of your buckets of paint together and stirring thoroughly.  This ensures that you'll have a consistent color for the entire job.  I've definitely noticed differences in tint when pouring buckets together in this step.

Back to your situation.  I think your only solution is to get another batch of paint and re-paint both pieces.


The tool of choice here is a jackhammer.  Today's electric ones will do the job nicely.  You should be able to rent one and a portable generator to power it from a local tool rental shop.  They should be able to fix you up with the correct tool for the job.


Laundry Room outlet and light not working

If you turn that switch on, it will run at 220v, probably your light runs at 120v (correct me if I'm wrong) which means that fluorescent, incandescent or led light will blow up after getting really bright depending of the type of light. Something must be wrong with the wiring in that switch-outlet.


Air Filter size for (new to me) home HVAC

I do not believe that that large hole shown in the next to the bottom picture is for a filter. If you look to the left side of the picture that grey wavy item is probably the filter. To access the filter you will probably have to remove the bottom furnace door. You could also have a filter mounted in the bottom of the furnace.  I have no idea what that access hole is for but it probably is not for a filter or electronic air cleaner. I am sure glad the person that installed that return drop duct never worked for me. It may be a good idea to have a reputable HVAC company inspect the whole furnace and duct installation and correct any deficiencies. my 2 cents


When should I round over the edges leading to a miter joint?

Route the pieces, cut the miter, then assemble. I believe that will give the best look. You could just practice all three on some scrap to see which you like.


2003 home, new over-range microwave questions

The 4-outlet is on a 20A circuit, the new microwave uses ~14A, which gives you about 6A for the bonus room.  The microwave will only be pulling the heavy load (MW) only occasionally. I would use the 4-outlet the way you described, with the other outlets taped over.  The original exhaust-furnace circuit at 15A does not have the capacity to carry the MW load.


How to fix water leaking past toilet bolt?

Change the rubber washer seals on the bolts. Over time these washers disintegrate and water in the tanks leaks around the bolts.


What is code for installing a dishwasher in the U.S.?

Assuming you're in the US (though I can't imagine it being much different elsewhere, but do check!) ...

Be sure to check the label, but most dishwashers run perfectly happy on a 15A circuit. If a dedicated circuit to the dishwasher isn't possible, you can come out of a general receptacle circuit that isn't otherwise utilized in the kitchen, depending on the rating of the dishwasher. What you want to avoid is a mixer and toaster and dishwasher using the same circuit at once. You may have to do some investigating. Go for the dedicated circuit if that's possible.

NEC 210.8.D specifies that dishwashers must be GFCI protected, and doesn't differentiate between cord-and-cap or direct connection (as it defines an outlet as any connection). However, not all states have adopted this because of the nuisance factor of older appliances and older GFCIs that tended to be overly-sensitive to fluctuation on the neutral leg. Check what applies in your state; you may want to just use a GFCI breaker on the branch circuit feeding the dishwasher as that's the easiest way to be sure, or be absolutely certain you're coming out of the "load" side of a GFCI receptacle that won't otherwise see much use.

Otherwise, if the dishwasher has a cord and cap, you should have an appliance receptacle installed where it can be reached. An appliance receptacle is an outlet with only one place to plug something in. If your state doesn't require the dishwasher being GFCI protected, they'll absolutely want to make sure you use a single appliance receptacle so nothing else can be connected to the unprotected receptacle. Finally, if directly wiring it, just make sure you use the appropriate connector if the vendor doesn't supply one.

Be kind to your future self, or anyone else that has to pull the dishwasher out in the future to service it by leaving enough cable to be able to pull it out and off to the side. Make sure the cable is secured properly wherever it is fed, and protected anywhere that it may be exposed on its path to the dishwasher.

If uncertain or uneasy - you probably want to call an electrician.


Why are the areas (square footage) for carpet removal and for vinyl plank installation different?

There are two main reasons:

When you install planks there is a requirement that the ends of the plank must be within a certain distance of ends of other planks on adjacent rows.   This means you probably cannot make your rows match perfectly even if the planking comes in a variety of sizes.   So you will have some cut-off waste and for most planking, especially click lock, you do not want to install small pieces often.

There can be defects in the planks.   The installer will not know until he is out there.   It could be scratched, miscolored, whatever.   These will be thrown out.

The extra 5% is to accommodate cut-off waste and any issues with the flooring.   For smaller jobs we actually go to 10%.   Lowes is probably being nice because it is something they stock or can get easily.

Note: On the question of also paying for installation of the extra 5%.
I am a little perplexed there.   I am sure there is some kind of
marketing/sales reason to this but I will say - NOT NORMAL.   If
someone wants 2000 sq ft of hardwood installed.   I will charge them
for materials including 2100-2200 sq ft of hardwood and 2000 sq ft of
labor.   I have never heard of charging for the 5% or 10% extra for
the install price.
It isn't fishy it is just weird.   Any install you have, you have
materials left over and clean up.   If you want a new door installed
on your house there might be 2x4s, trim, shim materials, screws,
nails, tons of stuff... I have never heard someone quote me... well I
charge for a 36x80 door at about $300 an install plus materials plus a
clean up fee based on overages... No.   Just weird.
Why wouldn't Lowes just charge you 5% more per sq ft.   We aren't
talking a lot of money until you start multiplying that across 1000s
of installs.   If they are charging 2.99 sq/ft why not just 3.15
sq/ft?   Probably because they want to keep up with the other big
boxes on pricing and 2.99 looks better in an advert.   If it is always
3.15 (or higher) why advertise 2.99?   Its weird.   It is very big boxish.
And just FYI Lowes does almost no vetting for their installers.   They
send whoever is free out and people bidding on the contract.   It's
just a random dude.   They might (and might is the right word) not
send somebody out after tons of negative feedback.   But these are
just your local installers who do not have enough work on their own -
and good installers are usually booked pretty solid and often cheaper
than what lowes charges.


Do I have to periodically pour water down my basement floor drain to maintain the p-trap water seal?

You can use something like the non-toxic RV antifreeze which evaporates more slowly than water; Or wash the basement floor occasionally.

A touch of mineral oil (the stuff sold for putting in people) may help to prevent evaporation by forming a surface film, but don't overdo that.


Wood movement is an important consideration and it's good to know you're thinking about it now and not trying to fix it after the fact.
Wood tends to expand the most across the width of a board and not so much across the thickness. This means that your 11-1/2" (or so) wide tread† will tend to get wider, pushing the nose of the tread farther out in the "overhang the riser below" position, but won't vary in thickness very much at all. To accommodate this, you'll need to attach your different woods together carefully and design the attachments to the treads carefully, too.
When it comes to attaching the top & bottom hardwood to the construction lumber, you want to have any fasteners in a single row to allow the different woods to expand independently. Your SPF tread core will expand differently than whatever hardwood you choose for the surface. Also, unless you're getting your 3/4" veneer from the same board, your veneers will all expand at slightly different rates, as will the SPF tread cores. Wood is a natural product and no two boards are exactly the same.
Attaching the veneer top to the core at only one point to allow for expansion gives you the possibility that the top will curl and that will be a trip hazard. Quarter or rift-sawn lumber will significantly reduce the likelihood of warping and, for a mission critical portion of the project like a stair tread, is going to be a much less expensive upgrade than the hospital bills or lawsuit from a tumble down the stairs.
A thin veneer of wood (I believe that 1/32" to 1/16" is normal for a commercially purchased veneer, some may be even thinner) shouldn't impact your wood expansion much and it should be attached with normal contact-cement-based veneering methods.
Your update to indicate that you're planning on resawing and laminating the stair core portion will help reduce cupping, but still won't impact expansion. I'm not exactly sure where the "11 pieces of..." lumber will each go, but I'd suggest that 2 or 3 pieces per tread†† with alternating growth ring patterns should be sufficient to significantly reduce potential for cupping.
To attach the treads to the stringers, I'm envisioning some sort of plate with screw holes welded to the metal stringer section(s). If you have a single row of screw holes, then simple round, countersunk holes will allow the wood to expand on both sides of the screw and should eliminate any splitting issues due to expansion. If you do this, be sure to install the treads away from the stringer's risers to allow the wood to expand and fill the gap. I cannot tell you how much expansion room to leave, but you can find wood expansion tables online and they should serve as a good guide. Remember, each piece of wood is unique and these are guides only, not guarantees.
If you're planning on a square of holes, make sure that the screw holes are elongated into ovals so that when you drive the screws through them, the screws can move in the oval slots as the wood expands and contracts. You want the screws to be tight enough to hold the tread securely, but not so tight that the screw cannot move at all. Overly tight will cause the tread to split where the screw is as the wood tries to expand.

†An 11-1/2" deep tread (nominal 2x12 construction lumber) is extremely deep and possibly a violation of building codes. Please make sure that this is acceptable to your local building inspector before investing a lot of money in this lovely sounding custom staircase only to have to scrap the whole thing because it doesn't meet with the inspector's approval.
††Make sure you use plenty of glue and plenty of clamps and plenty of clamp pressure when gluing these up. Check out Woodworking.SE for loads of Q&A's on doing glue ups to see just how many clamps are necessary to get a good glue up.


Once the concrete is cleaned of all dust and oils, the rubber mats should stay in place, especially once you get a few of them down.  If you want a little extra help, I'd offer two options:

"Carpet tape" is a thin, double sided tape that's usually about 1.5" to 2" wide and can be placed on the floor under the mats.  It's will be easier to remove than other adhesive options, but it will only provide a little extra grip.

If you find you need more holding power, you might want to install some type of perimeter strip around the mats (assuming they are laid in a rectangular pattern) to make a "frame" that holds it all together.  Holding the mats from sliding out from the edges means there will be less to remove when you are done.  Rather than adhesive under the whole mats, you could glue or screw down strips of wood along the edges.  Screws might leave divots in the floor, which could be unacceptable.


If you replaced your breakers on an older home and did not upgrade the wiring leading to each outlet as well as the outlet...you have issues.  These breakers are designed for ground wires and older homes have a grounded box only. And in many cases an older home has copper wiring where as newer breakers are designed for aluminum.  So a few checks need to happen...no aluminum to copper outlets.  No copper outlets to aluminum wiring,  And no aluminum wiring to copper breakers...and visa versa.  Copper and aluminum will cause trips and fires if used together.  And a breaker designed for continuous ground placed in a home with no continuous ground will also trip and kill you and your family.  Hire a qualified electrician as you are putting your family in serious jeopardy!  Cities have regulations on electricity because homeowners are NOT QUALIFIED!


Can I add a "C-Wire" to boiler with this device?

[![the following is a schematic of your control system.  The center item you need to purchase and install.  It also needs 110-volts.Good Luck.  P.


Creating a Pipe for Ethernet and Video Cables

You probably will not be placing a larger diameter pipe horizontally in a stud wall for 10 or more feet because of the fact that you would be sacrificing much of the strength of the wall studs to do so. If there is crawl/access space below the floor or above the ceiling the obvious choice would be to route the pipe in those spaces making sure to use sweep corners so that the bends are are easy to pull cable through. PVC pipe, which is available in a range of sizes, is likely going to be easiest for you to work with.

If the cable route is going to have to be routed within the room space then you have a number of options and things to consider:

Just placing a round pipe against a wall can be somewhat inefficient because it sticks out into the room farther than some other options.
There are commercially available cable raceways that you can purchase that might be just the ticket for you. Variable sizes exist and the top typically opens or pops off to allow access to the inside. Some raceways can also be painted to match the room colors.
There is a technique to install cables behind a larger cove molding that would be installed at the upper corner between the wall and ceiling. You could combine the cable installation with trim in the room. Be aware that this choice can be hardest to install cables later after the trim is already in place.
I have used a scheme in the past to hide wiring along a wall behind a PVC pipe that was split in half lengthwise. It took a special fixture made up of boards and 2x4s to hold the pipe safely and securely so that I could use a circular saw to cut the pipe. The half pipe was painted after it was attached to the wall using a narrow strapping material.


Adding pool heater to bonding of pump, salt generator, and timer

You definitely need to hook up the bonding wire to that bonding lug. Right now it is hooked up to the earth ground, which is incorrect. Earth ground is to keep the pool equipment at earth potential, bonding is to keep all the pool equipment at the same potential. Run a bare #8 copper wire from the bonding lug on the pool heater to the bonding wire, and connect it using a split-bolt connector


If the GFCI breaker pops because of a ground fault it pops softly without a loud sound. When it pops due to an overload you can hear a sharp sound inside the breaker comming from the spark during the opening of the breaker contact


Can I use a 175 Watt rated dimmer switch with 4 50 Watt low-voltage light bulbs?

This is a bad idea.

The maximum power rating for low voltage lights is lower than that for normal lights because no transformer is 100% efficient, so some allowance is made for that inefficiency in the specifications.  In your case, those four lights draw 200 W plus whatever overhead the transformers add, so you're drawing more current than the switch is designed to handle. More current through the switch means more waste heat generated by the electronics in the switch, which leads to higher temperatures inside the electrical box, which in turn will shorten the life of the switch1.

To answer your question about the brightness: I'd expect that they'd get less current than they should normally which would make their light both dimmer and redder.  Generally, you have bright lighting in bathrooms, so even if it weren't a problem for the switch, it might not be something you'd want.

1. If you look at the specifications for the switch, you may see de-rating information for using two or more of them in a single electrical box; this de-rating is caused by the waste heat generated by the switch.


What tool can I use to cut wall studs straight?

A handsaw, a square, and practice. While it seems common for folks starting out to reject this option, (practice seems to be out of style) it works. But you need to accept the idea that you'll actually have to make some practice cuts and get in the habit of noticing how the saw is cutting and learn to keep it on track.

A mitre box. You can make one from wood of whatever size you need.


How can I make a sunken electrical outlet line up with an outlet cover?

If you use a spacer the inset must be equal to or less than 1/4 of an inch to be NEC compliant.

See this question for relevant information: How do I extend outlets after installing a backsplash?

Personally, I would just get a box extender like the one in the answer to the question above.  They are fairly cheap and better by design (in my opinion).


Find some cheap 1/2"x (something like 1" -- could be 3/4; could probably be as big as 1-1/4). Nail that to the jamb first. (1/4" reveal is typical.) Then put door casing on top of that. Could be dead flush, or could have a slight reveal of its own.

Pro tip: too small a reveal (like, 1/8") is hard to do, because subtle differences in width can be seen easily. A bit bigger, and your 32nds disappear.


How do I extend existing 10/3 wiring to run a compressor that needs 12/2 wiring?

A simple solution would be a specialty extension cord like this:

It's hard to see from this pic, but it's a 240 v Male, with several 120v outlets on the other end.  You could plug it in where the kiln is, thus ensuring both can't be used at the same time.

Made by Ericson.  But the low end one is $350.  You might be better off to run a new circuit.


I recently abated my house's asbestos exterior siding and did a LOT of research before doing so.

The short answer is, don't vacuum it. Use something wet to pick it up (like mopping or a carpet shampoo machine) instead. Mostly, you'll be fine.

I called my municipal inspector, state regulator, and the national advisory council and they all gave me the same answers. They compared the risks of asbestos with the risks of cigarettes. With cigarettes, any given cigarette could kill you. More cigarettes means more opportunities to find "the one" that does.

Asbestos is NOT like that. Asbestos does, in fact, damage your lungs anytime you breathe some, but it's the same kind of damage as typical dust. The problem is ACCUMULATION, not probability.

For more detail, there are three types of asbestos. The smallest kind is too small to do any damage. The large kind is big enough that your body deals with it very well. The medium kind causes problems. So that's most of the asbestos that's not a problem. The remainder will do damage, but it's nothing you'd even be able to measure. The problem is when that damage accumulates from many many exposures over a period of decades.

They gave me 3 pieces of advice.

Firstly, it's not dangerous if you can't breathe it. In most cases, this means it's safer to leave it alone than to try an abate it. In my case, this meant trying not to break the tiles any more than necessary.

Secondly, wearing a mask is really effective. I used a typical dust mask that filtered pollen. You can find more official recommendations for what is rated for filtering asbestos.

Lastly, keeping it wet will keep it out of the air. This relates to your vacuum idea. Using a vacuum will make it easier to breathe the stuff.

My recommendation would be to spray the floor with soapy water to keep it from going up in the air (carpet or hard floor). If it's on a hard floor, just mop it up, dig a hole and bury the sludge that you mopped up. You might throw out the mop, too. If it's on a carpet, I'd use a shop vac to suck up the water. Water, vacuum, repeat until you feel like you got it all. Bury the water if it makes you feel good, but even just throwing it out isn't going to hurt anyone.

Now, there's an important caveat... you need to check the local regulations. Neither the Federal government, nor the state of Texas have any regulations about a homeowner abating their own asbestos. None at all. The only requirements were when I took it to the dump. They just wanted it in marked trash-bags... then it just got dumped in with all the rest of the trash.

Your jurisdiction might have regulations about how you dispose of asbestos as a private homeowner.

The important thing to remember is that it's the lawyers who have made it scary. MOST governments don't have any regulations at all for private owners taking care of their own home. But it's important for you to do your own research. I've done a lot, but I'm not ACTUALLY an expert.


Why am I getting 50V at a light when the switch is off?

The continuity test on the switch, described in comments, confirms that it is bad, since it shows continuity in both positions. Replace it.


Regardless, it's unlikely you'll be able to clip the new blinds into the clips for the roman shades you want to remove. Luckily, the clips are probably easily removed with a screwdriver, and you can just attach the new blinds with their own clips the same way. When you move out, take the new blinds off, patch the screw holes with spackle, and put the original roman shades back on.


Alternative to Silicone Wood Filler for Door Frame

The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible.  The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.

Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.

EDIT

To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.


Trimming or spackling the edge of a tile schluter to drywall (Large Gap)

Sometimes aesthetics are more important than "level, square, and plumb".

Try scraping that stuff back a bit and doing it over with lightweight topping compound. Use a smooth clean knife and the stuff goes on like butter, and it's easy to sand smooth after it sets. Hit it with primer and paint and it will look as good as it is going to.


Why would a rough in pipe be under the concrete?

If I had to guess I'd say that the builder expected the wall to pass over that point, and the vanity installed adjacent. You appear to have built your wall tight to the furnace, which isn't ideal for maintenance reasons. I'd bet that if you had set a wall 12" from the center of the 3" pipe it would line up with the 2" pipe.

As to why it's under the concrete... the plumber simply used too short a stub. Maybe he had a scrap laying around and wanted to use it up.


How do I diagnose a thermostat and HVAC that intermittently doesn't respond?

Check the pressure valve - we have been having this exact problem; my father took one of the hoses off of one of the pressure valves (mine has 2) - blew into it to clear a blockage and it worked fine again.

Last week when this first happened, the technician did the same thing, so blowing on the hose looks like a temporary fix (although they blamed it on the thermostat, which isn't the case)

The difference being my furnace is a 9 month old Lennox SLP98V...

If theres a problem with the pressure valve, it can prevent the burners to light up or stay on. In our case, the furnace would rev up as if it were gonna turn on, but then die. it would try this about every 5 minutes.

Hope it helps. I'm about to flip out on my install guy.

-Mario


Any US building codes about a door opening into a hallway near a stairway?

There's no such thing as US building codes, there are state, county, and municipal codes which vary widely between areas. The only way to know is to ask, which is what I'd recommend you do. There's no harm in it, simply call the office that is responsible and ask. You don't have to say you've already done it if you're worried about it, you could say you are planning on doing some remodeling and ask them if a door opens into a landing if that's OK and see what they say. Worst case is you have to turn it back in the way it was.


Building a 'Concrete' Ramp, Concrete Mix

Some issues to consider: 1) steepness of ramp, 2) structural support, 3) design of bottom edge, 4) mix design.

1) In the U.S., we can’t exceed a ratio of 1:12. That is, 1cm of rise requires 12cm of run. Also, it requires a handrail.

2) Concrete weighs about 150 lbs. per cubic foot. Whatever supports the “concrete floor” will also need to support the concrete ramp.

3) Concrete that comes to a point, will “chip off” over time, especially if wheelchairs roll over it. I’d chip down into the concrete floor (if it’s structurally capable) so you have a 4cm or so edge. (We often place a piece of rebar within 3/4” of the edge too.)

4) we like a “rich” mix for tapered concrete projects. That is to say, a 5 sack or more mix is important. Also, do not use too much water. If it’s too runny it will not keep it’s shape on the slope.

There are many factors in the design and finishing. Here’s a site that may help.

https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/materials/top-10-myths-in-concrete-construction_o


Does a receptacle have to supply the max current that it is rated for?

The plug specs are the maximum ratings given for how the plug is meant to be used in any given application. So a plug speced as 120V/30A is not designed to be used in applications over 120V and not to be loaded over 30A.

Now that said....those numbers do not directly have anything to do with the capabilities of the supply circuit or wiring. If the circuit was wired and deployed with the proper National Electrical Code guidelines then yes a 30A outlet would be wired with proper sized conductors capable of supplying 30A and the distribution panel being equipped with the proper sized circuit breaker rated at 30A.

However there is no guarantee that the distribution panel can always deliver the full 30A to this outlet. It is possible that the panel can support 100A total via its main breaker but there could be an active kitchen range drawing 50A on one circuit, an AC unit drawing 30A on another circuit leaving only 20A available. If you put the full 30A load on the outlet under consideration the main breaker would trip.

Regarding the voltages....outlets designed for 120V will generally be rated for supporting circuits at a nominal range of 110 to 120VAC. Similarly for outlets designed for 220 to 240VAC. The contact arrangements will be different for the two voltage ranges to prevent folks from attaching devices to the wrong voltage.


Traveller Wire Showing 40V When There Should Be None

Are you by any chance using lighted switches? If so they are likely the source of the voltage you are seeing. The 3-way switch is a "single throw double pole" switch that has a resister and light (usually neon) between the poles. This allows a small amount of current (milliamps) to flow to the load even when the switch(s) are off in order to light the switch. 40 volts sounds about typical for an open load i.e. no light installed but there is not enough current to light the light. This is true for incandescent lights, LED lights could light dimly or flicker.


What type and size of wood should I use to make a form for concrete?

Normally, you'd want to use any type of straight 2"x 8" planks. Why 8" instead of 6"? Because the 6" is really about 5.5" and if plans call for 6" slab, the 6" planks would be too small. You'll have to trench a little to get the planks down to 6" above grade. You'll want to get some rebar and drive it in every 3 feet or so to strengthen the frame. You'll also need steel mesh or rebar under the concrete for strength and to prevent cracking. Depending on who's doing the work, you might want to break it down to smaller pours instead of one large one which would be about 5.3 cu yards.
Depending on what's available in your area, you might be able to rent the forms from a large home store.


Is there any way to predict foundation problems?

Outside of naturally occurring activities like earth quakes, sink holes, etc., I'd say the current condition relative to the age is a good indication of what's to come.

There's no real answer to this without inspecting the foundation.

An old, well built foundation that has never had problems and shows little sign of damage (cracks, crumbling, staining, holes, etc.) might last 100 years longer if maintained.  A 5 year old foundation that was poured sloppy and has had water seeping in since day one is more of a risk.

A home inspector would be able to give you a good opinion as to the quality and current state of the foundation.

You could also ask some neighbours with similarly aged homes what their experience has been.

Beware of something that looks too good for its age. It's unlikely something 100 years old wouldn't have cracks or some water staining.  If it's been repaired, the quality of the repair needs to be looked at to ensure it's not just a façade someone put up to sell the house.  A good quality repair on an otherwise intact foundation wouldn't be a huge risk in my opinion.


Should I be worried about the weight of french drain gravel on my foundation?

Sure, everything affects the load on your footing. However, eliminating moisture (water) on your footing is more important.

There are three types of loads  that affect the displacement of your footing: 1) Dead Loads, 2) Live Loads, and 3) Superimposed Loads.

1) Dead Loads include the weight of the footing, building loads on the footing, and soil on and around the footing. Depending on the “angle of repose” of your soil conditions, all the soil or gravel next to your footing can add a load to the existing soil bearing.

Gravel can weigh about 90 lbs. per cubic foot (dry) and soil is about 100 lbs. per cubic foot (dry and depending on the type) and water is about 62 lbs. per cubic foot. Wet soil and water soaked gravel is considerably heavier.

As you can see, gravel and soil has similar weight characteristics. So, when you replace the soil with a 4” perf pipe and gravel, the weight is probably less, due to the void in the pipe.

2) Live Loads of people, benches, landscaping, etc. also adds weight and should be considered.

3) Superimposed Loads such as a parked car next to the footing also adds weight and should be eliminated from the area by the footing.

Summary:

Many things contribute to loading weight to the soil under the footing and can contribute to settlement. Just because the soil or gravel is not directly on top of the footing, it can still add “load” to the soil under the footing due to the angle of repose of the soil. A safe rule of thumb is anything (including Live Loads and Superimposed Loads) within a 45 degree angle from the edge of the footing will contribute “load” and cause settlement.

BTW, don’t install the gravel below the existing footing within the angle of repose. Otherwise you could undermine the bearing of the footing.


Which terminal should be used for a “C” wire when none are labeled “C”? Older electric furnace/heat pump

According to the schematic, the B terminal does appear to be connected to the transformer.

I'd actually trace the wiring in the unit just to confirm, but based on the schematic it looks good.

You'll want to make sure the transformer has enough power to supply the additional load of the new thermostat, but typically it isn't a problem.  If you hook up the new thermostat, and the fuse inside the unit blows. That would be an indicator that the thermostat is drawing too much juice.


Whats the difference between black, blue and red PEX pipes sleeves

The color is just for convenience. Making it easy to identify hot and cold pipes under a house for instance. The chemical makeup and temperature ratings are identical besides the actual dye used to color it.


If the house was vacant for a long period of time, there might be build up in the pipes. Try running a number of facuets for a while and flush the toilet over and over.  Assuming your incoming water isn't orange, it should go away after you flush out the pipes.

Also open the tank and have a look in there - maybe there is a component of the toilet that is rusting, or maybe there is some type of cleaning tablet present (usually they are blue but you never know).

EDIT: You mentioned in your comment that there is orange sediment on the bottom of the tank.  I can't really guess at what this is (maybe orange soil as someone in the comments suggested), but I would suggest that you turn off the water to the toilet, flush it to empty the tank, and then using a sponge, scrub it off, or at least disturb it enough that it will wash away when the tank refills.  Turn the water back on and flush it away.

If it comes back after some time then you'd need to investigate further..


What is the most effective exterior insecticide?

I have tried many different compounds, and found one to be particularly effective with low human toxicity:

Bifenthrin
    - A pyrethrin, only slightly toxic to mammals, nontoxic to plants

Talstar Pro -- Liquid concentrate, mix your own and spray

Ortho Home Defence Max Granules -- Granules, apply by shaking along perimeter

I use the liquid concentrate because it is much more cost effective, but the granules are much easier to apply.  I have kids and I chose this compound due to it's relatively low mammal toxicity.  I'm unsure what else is in the granules besides the active ingredient, and that also deters me from using it.

You can get the granules at your local home improvement store, and they also sell it in liquid form in a self-contained spray bottle but unless you fancy pulling a spray bottle trigger 1000 times to apply it, I would skip that option altogether.


What type of door can I install in a wide cased opening without damaging the flooring?

Bi parting barn doors would not involve the floor but you need 25” clearance on either side of the opening. Also they are about 500 dollars at Home Depot

if you have good carpentry skills you could narrow the width with  a board on each side and hang 2 24” interior doors. Mortising  for hinges


Should I sharpen or replace my table saw blade?

It's probably more economical to replace blades than sharpen them in your case. Sending blades out to be sharpened makes more sense for higher cost blades. Forrest's, for example, start around $100 so paying $30 to have them sharpened is quite a big savings over replacement. High quality melamine blades and stacked dados are even further into nosebleed pricing.


Is plywood or dimensional lumber better for repairing notched joist?

If you could sneak the ends of the sistered members (plywood or other dimensional lumber so that its ends ride up on the end to end support of the notched beam you will end up with a better repair.


Fix caulk along inground vinyl pool liner and plastic seat

I believe it is old calking salt water is really hard on metals but I have not seen problems with salt water systems and the seals or calking, I have had god luck with salt water only 1 failed wire loop but that was after 7-8 years.


What if I can not connect the ground wire of my new light fixture to an old electrical connection?

Supplying the fixture from the LOAD side of a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), will provide protection to the fixture.  It could be a GFCI receptacle, standalone GFCI device, or GFCI breaker.


Yeah, that's wrong. The inspector ought to know better; clearly does not inspect a whole lot of commercial installations.
Gently stand up on the point and show him the code, and leave him a path to keep his ego intact (that is less than you pulling a bunch of pointless ground wires).  That's part of negotiating.
By the way, if you do pull the trigger on pulling ground wires, the ground wires go to the boxes not the receptacles.  They land on a 10-32 ground screw (which doesn't need to be green), which goes into the hole in the back of the box already tapped 10-32.  When bringing a ground to any metal box, you must go to the box first. Once that's done, if you also want to bring ground to the recep, you can do that also e.g. via pigtailing. #1 mistake I see grounding metal boxes.
In cases like yours, where the recep will have hard flush metal contact between its yoke and the junction box mud ring or domed cover, that is a valid grounding path and ground wires are not needed.  So remove that little paper square that captures the receptacle screw!
On switches it's even easier, you don't even need to remove the paper square and you only need screw-head contact with the yoke.


Why little holes/dots when I apply joint compound?

There have got to be many ways to minimize the bubbles.  These kind of problems you deal with when finishing drywall require a certain amount of skill that, for me, comes only with experience.  That said, I have a few ideas:

Add a little bit of water.  The further along in the finishing process, the thinner the compound should be.
Mix well, even if you add no water.
"Work" your mud with a knife in your pan (or on your hawk) for a few seconds.
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like your application could use fine tuning.  a. Apply the mud to the wall as you have done.  b. Remove mud from the knife and, putting pressure on the left side of the knife, go back over application. c. Do the same for the right side. d. With light pressure in the center, go over again.  This will help to better feather out our edges.


Will my pocket door affect my installation of a tub surround?

Most tub enclosures, like the one pictured, use a 1/12 to 2" nailing flange down each side and along the top. They are also designed to be used with tubs that have an anti siphon lip along the wall parameter of the tub. It sure looks like you have very little extra relief between edge of tub/tile to the actual corner. In order for the surround to fit snugly to the wall, it must be secured using this nailing flange. I think that you may have to build out the edge of that corner, thus reducing the opening size of the pocket door by an inch or two. This would not be very difficult, but would require some extra finishing work and some changes to door trim etc. If this clearance issue is the same on the opposite side of the tub, the same procedure may be necessary. Also, if you find that your tub does not have the anti siphon lip, extra attention will be needed to seal this joint. If and when you get to the point of tearing out the tile wall, be sure to insulate the stud wall and cover it with a good 4 to 6 mil vapor barrier, tuck tape any joints and the sides and top.  This will provide not only water protection, but give you some degree of sound deadening to adjacent rooms. Use only MR (moisture resistant) or paperless drywall to finish off around your new surround.
A completely different approach might be to cover the existing tile with a glue on surround kit. Assuming the tile is secure, after carefully cleaning all soap residues and prepping the surface with a dewaxing agent, (isopropyl alcohol for example) trowel on adhesive and install the kit. There are actually some nice surface mount enclosures out there, usually five piece. the box stores typically only have one or two choices and are pretty cheap looking. Check out a specialty kitchen and bath supplier for a much better selection.


How to fix pitched floors in a brick building

Huge RED FLAG !  5 or more inches of floor displacement is a condition for serious concern. There are a number of reasons that could cause this condition. If you are not experienced in structural inspections, I'd highly recommend getting an inspector or structural engineer in there before you buy a serious problem.

The fact that it is also sharing common walls with other units complicates some repair scenarios. Get a pro in there and also get quotes based on the engineer's recommendations.


Do external faucets have an indoor shutoff valve somewhere indoors?

Yes, typically houses in northern (freezing) climates have an indoor shut off.  When winterizing your house, you should turn the indoor valve off, and leave the outside one open so that the water can drip out.  The danger is that the water can freeze and burst the pipe.

I'd look for the shut off in the basement, on the other side of the wall where the outdoor faucet is.  Trace the pipe back until you find something.


How can I install a new internal nonbearing concrete block wall in basement to partition off for bathroom?

Load bearing or not, a concrete block wall needs a footing beyond what your questionably thick slab is.

That is why it might fall down, aside from not using tie-ins. AFAIK, you shouldn't have to tie-in at the ceiling, just to the side walls. I'd hope any professional would be talking about (a) pouring a footing (b) drilling holes everywhere for rebar and (c) making pockets for tie-ins. But it's a bathroom; not a vault. No one does this if they can just frame out the wall with lumber.

Ad hoc masonry must be tied-in to the existing structure:

(diyadvice.com)

(waybuilder.net)


Is DC Pedestal fan motor whine normal at low speed?

Dead common, but it's more often the circuitry providing the DC voltage to the fan, in my experience.
Not clear what you are powering this from (AC/DC/Voltage...), but the speed control probably consists of some sort of switching circuit, and when there are electronic components that are being switched at audible frequencies, you sometimes get noises you can hear - often quite irritating.


if your door has a deadbolt and a passage handle, its probably the passage bolt, just popping into the latchplate recess.  this is common as you want the door to compress the weatherstripping and seal the door, but not have a load on the deadbolt as you try to unlock/lock it.  the passage bolt is just set so that it takes the spring load from the weatherstripping in order to unload the deadbolt.

if your door is just a standard keyed security set, it could be the anti-pick pin on the backside of the bolt just popping past the strikeplate as you put pressure on it.  if its not fully extended, the bolt is much easier to wedge in with the door being locked (so your lock isn't doing much from a security perspective)

if your locks are working fine and your door is sealing, i would just leave it be, if not, you can try experimenting with the strike plates.  moving them in and out even a tiny little bit can make big changes, negative or positive, in how the door works.  you might want to get a pro if its something you have never done before.  its very finicky to get it just right (and have it stay that way over a wide temperature and humidity range)


Molten wire nuts on recessed MR16 halogen lights

Thanks to Tester101's comment on my question I learned about ceramic high temperature wire nuts. I ended up using these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071NCSA4, for 18-14 gauge wire (the ones noted in my comment above were too large, they are for 12-10 gauge wire and didn't hold on to the wires properly).

I read somewhere that halogen lights reach temperatures above 300°C, so the plastic high temperature wire nuts mentioned above are not an option as they are only rated up to 150°C. The WAGO nuts I intended to use were also not appropriate as they are only rated up to 105°C.

While I was already in there, I also replaced the lamp holders with these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055D2Y2E because the metal contacts in the existing ones were corroded.

The result looks like shown below and it works great, no more flickering or humming.

I have to say that these ceramic nuts are a bit iffy to install, probably because they don't have the metal coil inside like the regular plastic wire nuts do. In one instance I twisted too much, and the nut just cut off the wires completely. Another nut never got a good grip on the wires and fell off, so I had to toss it and use another one from the same batch. If somebody knows of a better type of high heat nut, perhaps one that does have the metal coil inside, feel free to comment.


Take that box back and get a box that attaches to the joist

It sounds like you have the wrong box for the job -- a hanger-bar type fan box like yours is designed for putting a fan between joists, not adjacent to them.  What you want instead is a fan-rated box that mounts to the side of the joist -- ask your electrical supplier for a Raco 294 or equivalent (depicted below).


What kind of flooring are you putting down? If it's tile, I'd probably reinforce the floor a bit first with a new layer of t&g subfloor before putting the tile down... which solves your problem.

If there's any musty smell, you can clean the floor with trisodium phosphate (the real stuff, not "substitute") ... but don't soak it. Just scrub it with the tsp and a scrub brush. The TSP will probably take up the glue as well... but has a significant chance of eating your plywood in the process. ;)


A/C unit cycles on and off during cooling phase

Could well be it is overheating and shutting down.  Have you had the Freon checked lately?  You can put a food thermometer in an vent opening; if the temperature at the vent is over 65 degrees Fahrenheit it is probably low on Freon, and the A/C unit is trying to run 100% of the time to try to cool down.
This happened to me, and the repairman said that was the cause for my situation.  Worked like a charm after the recharge.


Do I need a gravel pad beneath skids on my finished shed?

I would believe the builders over some guy any day.
Will a taller block and gravel make a difference? Sure it will but if you have good drainage it really won’t matter.
I have seen folks dig out earth and put rock down for the same reason “a guy said to” worst choice for them there soil was a high clay content so the rock pit filled and held water (yes it started to smell) a drainage system had to be added. If a simple plastic vapor barrier with the 4” blocks will do better than rock and taller blocking.


4-1/4" and some larger wall tiles have bumps cast in that act as spacers. Unless you want a larger gap, no additional spacers are needed.

Whether your particular tile has them is uncertain. They're often necessary to prevent sagging with heavier tile while the mortar or mastic sets.


What does it mean when my dryer's 240V supply is 110V?

The voltage measurement needs to be from 1 hot leg to the other hot leg the voltage should be ~240 (the flat connections). To identify the bad leg measure hot to ground or neutral each hot should have 120v.
Since your coil failed I would suspect the wiring at the receptacle or breaker. With the power off pull the receptacle and look at the connections. My guess there was a not so good connection when the coil failed it may have ended up burning the wire off. I see this regularly in receptacles not very often in the breaker box. It could be the breaker but that is rare.


Basically the only "HOT" is the black coming into the box from the Main. The switch is an interrupt to the light, which uses the electricity. So the way they have it set up is the switch is just passing the Voltage through from black to black when on, and creating an "Open" when it is off. At which point the light (or a plug outlet) would be off; this is where the actual Black/White setup in your mind really matters.


Marginal cost of window (framing) while in design phase

Where I live, 4x4 windows cost about $600 and another $300 for framing, header, etc. Trim around the opening varies from $100 - $200, depending on type of trim, stain or paint, etc.

Framing is not what is expensive in a house. It’s the finishes.

BTW, an “egress window” is required by Building Code in all bedrooms AND sleeping areas. It needs to open a certain amount and can’t be more than 42” - 44” or something like that off the floor. Check with Building Codes in your area.


the minimum bend radius can serve two purposes.

the first is to protect the inner "conductor". on fiber optic cable and very thin copper cables, going below the minimum bend radius can cause the "conductor" to break.

the second is to protect the sheathing. on heavier gauge wire such as electrical wiring, going below the minimum bend radius can cause the sheathing to break, exposing the inner conductors. when you get to the end of the wire (as in a switch box) a tight bend causes the sheath to retract from the exposed end instead of just breaking.

breaking the inner conductor is not as much of a concern with electrical wiring because, at these diameters, it generally takes repeated flexing to cause a failure in the conductor itself, and these types of cables are meant to be installed in fixed environments.


Will this solar charger work with my solar panel setup?

Wire the panels all in series to get the highest possible voltage to the controller. This will keep your current lower, requiring less wire, and allow the MPPT charger to work more efficiently. If you are charging a 24V battery bank, you need at LEAST 26V but it will operate much better with higher voltages. Just try not to exceed 100V. 6 panels is probably the max you'd want to run.

The Mobil ra220 panels actually have 2 modules each, and if you're measuring ~9V per panel they are configured in parallel. I'd recommend rewiring them in series for the reasons stated above.


Both the black and red are likely ungrounded (hot) conductors. However, one or both of them are likely switched.   That is, one or both of them are energized only when a switch is closed.

Test the wires with your meter, and determine which one is controlled by the switch. Once you figure that out, connect only that wire to the black wire on the fixture.  Cap the other wire off, and tuck it safely away inside the box.


If it were me, I'd stick with your drainage improvements, monitor, and save pennies to fix this for real.  1920s-and-older construction is often significantly overbuilt (I've owned 5 so far, so take the sample for what it's worth statistically!) and can take a lot of abuse.  You do want to fix this, but your time frame seems to be in months, not years.  If you see shifting measured in millimetres, given the tectonic rates at which houses shift, you're probably ok for the next couple years.  If your monitors show issues, move fast.

All of that is provided that you are not talking about significant (recent or contemplated) excavation, changes in the surrounding water behaviour (did you remove any trees?), and that you are getting the water far away from the foundation.  Stabilize all that, and I bet you'll be ok for the next few years, assuming you have no seismic problems locally.

Also, of course, this advice is worth what you paid me for it; if you'd paid me, I would't give it. :)  But that's what I'd do.


What is the cause and fix to water slowly coming out of an outdoor faucet when its turned off?

Oops, I think I misunderstood the question.

It sounds like this is a "frostproof" spigot.  If so, there should be a small white plastic cap on the top of the spigot just behind the knob.  A picture would ensure that a proper identification is made.

Most of these spigots can be rebuilt.  However, it may be more efficient (time wise) to replace it (depending on brand, age, availability of suitable parts).  But... this depends on how accessible the body of the valve is in your structure.  Again, a picture is going to help a lot.


This door had been broken before, there is caulk or some type of filler at the edges of the break, where some stayed on one side, some stayed on the other. This will really give you a hard time to get the parts tight enough for glue to do it job. All caulk MUST be removed from the glue area. You can use a fresh blade in a razor knife to carefully pare it off. Any wood that gets removed needs to be minimal, important that no caulk remains, if it does it WILL be in the way. This is done after you remove the trim, and after the piece is separated the rest of the way from the jamb. This will aid in removing the caulk.

After it is all cleaned up, dry fit the part back in. The gap should draw relatively tight where you DID NOT carve the wood away. A hair line gap is ok. With it loosely in place, drill pilot holes in at least three key areas, 2 to 4 inches from the bottom, one a few inches from the strike. Here you can actually set a pilot above and below the strike, and at least one at or near  the top. MAKE SURE it is lined up flush as good as you can, perfect is good. Time spent here will pay off when you disassemble it to run the glue. Set your screws too. Keep the screws length so it only goes into the mating part about 1". Here, more is not better, enough is perfect. Adding glue will complicate matters.

Now is the time to add the glue after removing the screws. Use enough glue to make sure the faces of the break on both sides are covered. When you reassemble glue will be everywhere, so prepare for it. I usually have handy a sponge and a half filled 2 to 5 gallon bucket ready. Glue oozing out will hide the joint and you won't see squat until the parts are tight and you wipe the joint with a damp cloth, then it is almost too late. You will still have a little time to back the screw out a bit and force it back straight or flush and tighten it back up. It always happens, I get it flush dry, but as soon as I add glue the parts shift a little, and adjustment is always needed.

Let the glue dry, putty the gap created by the carving off the caulk sand flush add the new piece of trim and repaint.


Well, I was able to get it to hold in place by wrapping the screw in a decent amount of packing tape. Seems like it's holding well, and of course as long as the screw is fastened the leg will do the rest of the work.

Still, I am definitely open to better band-aid solutions or what a proper fix would look like (i.e. would I need to weld it?).


Why does a subpanel need separate ground and neutral?

Bonded ground/neutral

If you have the neutral and ground bonded at a subpanel, then you'll get neutral return current through the ground wire back to the main panel (since there are now multiple paths). Even worse, as @Tester101 points out, if the neutral ever has a fault, everything will continue to work but you'll have all the current on the ground, which also means that you can now be electrocuted by touching the panel chassis, for example.

The ground and neutral must be bonded only at one place (in the main panel) to avoid this.

Subpanel main breaker

A main breaker on a sub-panel is not necessary because this is in the same building (if you are in a different building then NEC 225.31, 225.32, 225.33 apply). That said, having a main breaker in the sub-panel is also acceptable.

For whatever reason (economy of scale, I guess) "main" panels are often sold cheaper. I recently purchased a small 12-breaker panel (which included a main breaker and a couple 15A breakers) for almost half the price of a similarly-sized sub-panel (which didn't include any breakers). It makes absolutely no difference to wiring, you just have to be sure to take out the ground/neutral bonding screw/bar (if pre-installed).

Subpanel ground

The sub panel must absolutely have ground back to the main panel, and it must be appropriately sized for the current rating of the panel (as in, it's the same as or larger size than the hot/neutral wiring). This is regardless of being in the same structure or not.


Thermostat White-Rodgers 1F82-261 switches to stage 2 heat for no apparent reason

I didn't look up the manual but it is very possible that it kicks in second stage after a set amount of time. There should be a installer configuration section where you can adjust those settings.... Now I'm curious, I'm going to look up the manual.


I will not speak to the code issue as other already have. But, I did use them when building my new home a few years ago and, for me, they passed inspection.

While the package does say they can be used for stranded wire, I did not find that they worked that easily with stranded wire (I was using some computer controlled switches with pigtails instead of screws). But, they did work. I just had to twist the strands fairly tight first.

As far as coming loose? Not the ones I was using. If memory serves me correctly, I think there is a little hole that you can push the spring up with to release the wire because it is so tight.


What do you call a widget that holds the side of a curtain against a wall?

They are called safety cup hooks and have been cleverly repurposed.

Links are for illustration purposes only. No product or source is being endorsed.


What does the latch position of a circuit breaker mean?

If you're referring to the circuit breaker switch being in the middle after it's been tripped, that's just the "tripped" position. As far as I know it doesn't tell you anything about the reason.

You have arc fault breakers, which means the breaker was tripped because:

there was too much current flowing
there was an arc fault.

Based on the relatively low loads and intermittence you describe, I would guess it's an arc fault issue. Perhaps a faulty wiring connection. Maybe it's being jostled occasionally if someone walks nearby and causes just the right vibration or something. Or as Steven mentions in a comment below, a faulty switch could cause an arc fault.


Having a white that is hot at a switch is called a switch leg and code required the white wire to be always hot so it would not be mistaken for a neutral if it was on the switched side this has been code for decades.
Put a wire nut on the black to white and there will be no more switch interference with the receptacle.
Note if there is not a light in the room it is a requirement to have a switched receptacle so taking out the switch may violate code.


What is the maximum angle I can set my window AC unit?

All the window air conditioning units I have looked at—a total of about six different models—had a drip basin which is tilted toward the outside.  Or if they have a drain hose, then the pan is tilted toward an exterior corner where the hose nipple is.

So leveling the bottom of the a/c should be the right thing to do.  If it is tilted too far, that could cause water to accumulate in the wrong place and interfere with the condenser, or maybe just overflow onto the sill bypassing the drainage system altogether.


Take the 3-wire cord off of your old dryer and use it. When you look at it, it should be flat with the three wires. These should line up with the three main connectors on your new dryer. Put the center one into the center connector, while the other two can go to either side. Make sure everything is snug. Have no fear as this is done all of the time. Your dryer will work with either cord, depending on the outlet on the wall.

This is how it should look in the dryer:


Why do both water tanks have hot inputs? Is my boiler (on-demand) feeding into my hot water heater?

If the right hand heater were supplying hot water to the left hand heater, it would be strange to hide the pipework in the wall.

I guess it is more likely that they are feeding separate heating circuits.

It is not unusual for the return pipe to be nearly as hot as the output line, if the system has been running for a while.

There ought to be records of the system somewhere showing how it is connected up. If the church doesn't have them, the original installers should - or at least could advise.


How to finish concrete ceiling - beam span calculation

I would consider a simpler, cheaper, easier solution--such as furring/ceiling tile, suspended ceiling tile, or furring/drywall. You don't have to drill. You can use a powder-load nailer to attach the furring. Much easier and will leave you more headroom.


How do I extend a length of aluminum flex vent hose?

You would use a coupling tape and hose clamps.  You use thin flex aluminum duct like shown in picture but I like to stick with the semi rigid flex duct. Zip ties can be used on thin stuff but not semi rigid.


NEC 210.8.2 requires all outlets in a garage to be GFCI protected so if your lights are connected by an outlet they need GFCI protection if they are hard wired they do not require GFCI protection. Exhibit 210.10 provides a illustration of this.


Using shingles to flatten concrete subfloor

I've done things like this on a number of occasions, and the problem is that you'll create more bumps than you resolve. Only the inner portion of your depressions measures 1/8", and fairly quickly they taper up to a smaller dimension. This means that the edges of your shingles are almost always too thick for their position.

Also, they're crunchy. For at least a while after installation you'll hear it underfoot.

You're much better off skimming with a leveling compound.


Using washers to fill gap between top support component and IKEA IVAR cabinet

I would drill new holes in the upright so the top bracket is properly positioned. Your plan for washers would work but I don't think it would look as good.


There are multiple combinations possible.

From what you have said so far here is what I am thinking:

Cable A or B is the hot feed from the main panel.
The other cable, either A or B is the feed to the other receptacle.
Cable C is the feed to the switches and the red wire is the switched hot wire returning from one of the switches.

It sounds like at least one receptacle in the room was switched for a floor lamp. It doesn't have to be split wired both plugs on the receptacle could be switched.

It could be the receptacle in your drawing or the other or both. The switched hot should be the red wire. If you connect the red wire to a receptacle you should not connect a black wire. Unless you are going to remove the connecting tab on the hot side of the receptacle and split wire the receptacle.

You should take some voltage readings to determine which cable is the hot feed from the panel. Then, with the circuit shut off, you can use the resistance or continuity setting of the meter to determine which cable goes where and which wire is which.

Good luck!


Problems with reassembling Bosch POF 1200 AE router

I usually find a way to hold the brushes back in the holder against the spring pressure.
Either a wire loop tying each brush back or some brush holders have holes to insert a pin through - there can be many options to consider, but there has to be a method to assemble it.
Once the armature is back in position then remember to release the brushes.


Electrical Service Run to 100A Sub-panel

You absolutely, positively cannot do that. Period.

Both hots and the neutral must all come from the same panel and one, only one, 2-pole breaker.

If you think you have a balancing problem, you could move some circuits around - but honestly, you'll want to get some help with that.  Seriously.