Should we install an overhead tank or cistern tank?

A cistern tank is shielded from all elements-the temperature will be less volatile.
Sun warmth can not increase bio live.
They work for centuries now.


Troubleshooting: Why does my multimeter not work when a non-contact volt detector shows current?

At the switch it sounds like your "ground" is not actually connected to the grounding system.

At the light fitting it sounds like your neutral wire is not actually connected to the neutral.

What makes this situation really worrying is that the combination of results on the light and the switch strongly suggests to me that a "bootleg ground" and/or "bootleg neutral" is involved where a Neutral is used as a Ground and/or a ground is used as a neutral. If this was the case then you may well find that when the switch is on and a bulb is in the light that the switch plate is live.


Can I power A/C and furanance from two different services?

Usually, air conditioning units are simple things.  They have

a freon hose in and out
240V electric power which runs the compressor
a 24V signal wire which operates a big contactor that turns e A/C unit on.

In this case, the furnace and the A/C unit are connected only by the freon hoses and the 24V thermostat line.  There is no mains AC power connection.  The furnace does not care where the A/C unit gets its power, it could come off a diesel engine and it wouldn't care.

The 24V control power is generated by the furnace using a transformer, from its mains power supply.  However the 24V is its own totally separate service; it doesn't care which service the A/C unit is on.

So... I think your problem is somewhere else.  I think that electricity isn't getting to the A/C unit, you didn't turn a breaker on, you disconnected the thermostat wire, etc.

Or not...

If your air conditioning unit is not like I describe here, then that may be a problem.  There are some modern units that do some more complicated things. Fine then, so what? The fact is, a furnace unit draws fairly little electricity - only a few hundred watts for the fan to blow air around.  So the furnace adds fairly little load to the panel and it doesn't really need to be on a separate service in your case.

Oh wait, your heat is electric? (Or heat pump with aux heat). Yes, electric heat is a very big load indeed. But like the air conditioner is supposed to be, the huge heating elements are contactor controlled, and are electrically very simple, and could be powered from a different service.


If you were pouring a slab over this -- and required decades of stability -- you might need to worry about your fill.  Organic matter and other debris that will break down over time is appropriate for topsoil but not for fill.
Your project is going to be less sensitive to settling.  You should compact your fill well as you place it.  It looks like you have way less than a cubic yard in your photo, so you can easily do it with a hand tool, like a tamping bar or a lawn roller (see equipment rental yards for the roller.)  Make more than one pass of fill-compact-more-fill in the deepest area.  A few inches at once should compact well with a small lawn roller and won't take all day!


can a 2x4 withstand 200lbs out pressure on the 1.5" side?

TL;DR -If the question is if you can use a 2x4 for a post, then the answer is no.

For guardrails see here, page 42 -6A (Chicago Deck Code).

Whatever a 2x4 can withstand is irrelevant. Guardrail posts are to be at minimum 4x4s.

The top rail is to be a 2x6 with a 'cap'.

Maximum span for a railing between two posts is 4'.

Use at minimum 5/8ths through bolts with 2" - 3/16ths washers to secure the post to the ledger board (and unless you want to do it again in five years, buy all stainless fasteners).


How can I remove paint stains from a bathtub?

If the tub material is fiberglass (and most commonly are) the best way to remove any blemish is with an orbital sander and some 300 600 and 1000 grit Wet and Dry sandpaper. Using a spray bottle filled with water wet the stained surface. Starting with the lowest grit sand and keep the area wet. Let the sander do the work. No need for hand pressure. Watch how fast the stain is being removed (it should go quickly. Move through the grits and spray to keep surface continuously wet. The paper is of such a fine grit it will not leave any discernible scratches. When completed apply a cleaner/sealer for fiberglass.


Should I put a dimmer switch on a ceiling fan?

Check the fine print
To find out if the dimmer can work with the fan, you'll have to inspect the dimmer.  For this, you'll have to remove the cover plate and possibly pull the switch out of the box (in which case, make sure you shut off the power at the breaker). If you see the text "For Incandescent Only"; or something similar, you should not use this dimmer with a motor load.

Using a standard dimmer with a ceiling fan can damage the motor, and/or cause the dimmer and/or motor to overheat and cause a fire.
There are a few better options available to you.
Install a fan control switch
There are many different fan control switches available; with a wide range of styles and functions, you should have no problem finding just what you want. A simple control like this 3 speed fan control, will run you about 20 bucks, and installs using the existing wiring.

Install a remote control
If you're up for a bit more wiring, there are universal remote control kits available.  You'll have to wire the receiver into the fan housing, so it's a bit more complicated than installing the wall control. But once the receiver is installed, you can place the wireless remote anywhere you like. There are a ton of these things available, so you shouldn't have any trouble finding one you like.  You can even get a cool touch screen control, if that's what suits your fancy.

Install a new fan
If installing a new fan is an option, you could simply select one that comes with a remote control.


A French Cleat is a piece of wood (or metal) that runs most or all of the width of the object to be hung. It is installed on the surface of the wall, sized to hide behind the object being hung. Unless you're hanging a mirror that's less than 16" wide and the only place you can hang it happens to be exactly between two studs, some place on that cleat should cross a stud. If you want to hang it here for aesthetic reasons, then you may want to reconsider the aesthetics for practicality and safety and move the mirror an inch or two one way or the other to find a stud. If, of course, the mirror is more than 16" wide, it should cross a stud somewhere. (Note: assumption of US building codes and standard, modern building methodology. If you live outside the US or your house was built prior to 1900, all bets are off.)
Put a proper screw/bolt into the stud, then use mollys/toggle bolts/whatever to prevent the ends from spinning around the central support point.
One good screw/bolt should be able to support your 12 Kg load, so any additional attachment points are bonus weight bearing support in addition to their "anti-tip" job.


Insulating/encapsulating crawlspace with HVAC ducting questions

Should I remove all the old batting and sheeting if the material is
  dry if I plan on encapsulating and insulating the walls of the
  crawlspace and close off the vents?

Yes.  Any and all fiberglass bat insulation should be removed.

  Mold does not appear to be a significant issue but would fogging the space while its still unoccupied be a good idea?

I would have the space inspected by a qualified mold remediation specialist.

  Is a vapor barrier with 10mil sheeting be sufficient and can I lay
  this on top of the old sheeting (basically addition underlayment) and
  up the walls?

10 mil vapor barrier is fine.  As to whether you can lay it on top of the existing vapor barrier, opinions differ.  I think that's OK (in fact am thinking about taking that approach myself), but only if there is no possibility of water getting into the crawlspace (pipe leak, from outside, up from the ground) that could then get get between the layers of plastic and just sit there.  If you can't ensure that going forward, then you need to remove the existing vapor barrier.

  Is insulation necessary on the ground?

No, though I have seen where some installers do that.

  Once the space is encapsulated and insulated does the ducting also
  need to be insulated?

Yes, so as to reduce the amount of heat loss from the ducts into a 50 deg crawlspace.

  I plan on beefing up the sealing with foil tape and mastic but do I
  need to wrap as well or would I be better off beefing up the
  wall/floor insulation?

The crawlspace walls should be insulated with foam board and a vapor barrier installed.  No insulation under the floor.

  ...if any of the steps I outlined above in anticipation of this
  upgrade?

You would need to make sure a source of fresh air is provided to the furnace.  And, of course, need to vent the furnace exhaust to the outside.


Merge walls of different thickness on same vertical without notice

You could taper the sections together with joint compound (though you wouldn't sand it into shape--that would be ludicrously laborious). However, you'd probably still see the transition at the floor and ceiling.

Better, use furring strips on the new section of wall to result in a flush finished surface. 1/4" luan plywood or OSB is cheap and easy to work with, or rip your own from 2-by lumber.

On a related note, I tend to prefer 5/8" gypsum board when I'm replacing plaster. It more closely matches the rigidity and strength of the plaster, and requires less furring. In some cases, none is needed.


Ceiling fan wiring (2x light switch, 1x fan switch)

This won't fly
What you have proposed is not to Code, due to the current loop created by the "solo" hot wire going up to the fan then returning back via the neutral going down to the other switch.  This violates the intent of the 300.3(B)/310.10(H) prohibitions against current loops and paralleled wires which can create magnetic fields and ensuing eddy-current heating issues in your walls.
What to do instead
What you should do instead is run 14/3 from the two-gang switch box (fan + light switches) up to the fan box, and then use the 14/3 between the two switch boxes as as a 3-way switch spur consisting of two travelers and either an always-hot or a switched-hot as the "return" leg back to where it joins up in the two-gang switch box.  This removes the 14/2 going from the single-gang box up to the fan box, and gets rid of all the magnetic-field issues your original plan had.


What size are the pipe fittings on the feed line side of a sink feed?

It looks like a standard braided supply line. available at practically any hardware store in various lengths


The chair in the photo is indeed webbed cane. It features the most common (and traditional) installation method - the cane is woven in a sheet and held onto the chair by a spline pressed in a groove. The pane may be on a removable frame but sometimes the frames are integral to the structure of the chair. The pale wood strip around the perimeter of the cane webbing is the spline - there is a groove machined around the frame that the spline is pressed into, holding the webbing in place.

To replace it, you'll need a new piece of webbing and a new spline, and some plain wood glue. The job goes easier if you have an old screwdriver or chisel the same width as the spline (or you can buy a purpose-made tool) to clean out the channel. You'll also want a narrow wood wedge with the tip blunted in order to seat the cane and the new spline.

Start by removing the old cane and spline. This can be helped by heating the spline with a hair dryer. Wet down with hot water if you know it won't harm the chair's finish. Look along the spline to see where the splice is (where the two ends of the reed meet). Using your narrow screwdriver or dull chisel, pry up the end of the spline and pull it out of the groove. Pull out all the remnants of the old webbing and use your screwdriver/chisel to clean any old glue or bits of spline or webbing out of the groove.

Check the groove carefully. If there are bits of old material in it, you will have trouble seating the spline. If the edges have become sharp, it can cut the new webbing.

Soak the new webbing in hot water while you're working on the spline. Soak the new spline too. Once the old spline is out and the chair is clean, place the webbing over the chair (make sure you've got the smoother side up - the cane strips are oriented so that the rough cut sides will all face the same direction) and use your wood wedge to press the webbing down into the groove. First, seat a few inches at the top of the panel. Then, pull the webbing towards the bottom of the panel (enough to flatten it out but not enough to stretch it at all) and seat a few inches at the bottom. Then, do the left and right sides. Once the webbing is pressed into the groove in 4 places, it will essentially hold itself in position - you can work around the perimeter with your wedge and press it in to the groove.

With the webbing pressed into place around the whole perimeter, run a small bead of wood glue around the groove - you only need enough to tack the spline in place, the strength comes from the friction fit of the material. Then, set the spline into the groove - when you're all the way around the perimeter, trim it to length. With the spline placed into the groove, use a mallet in combination with the wood wedge to drive it home - you want the spline to bottom out in the groove. The action of driving the spline to the bottom of the groove is what will pull the webbing taut - this step is where the tension in the panel comes from.

With the spline fully seated, trim off the excess webbing along the spline (can be done by running a razor knife along the spline), wipe up any glue squeeze out with a damp cloth, and you're done. Be sure to let the webbing dry fully before putting the chair back into use - if you apply pressure to the still-damp panel, it will stretch and become loose.

Although the process sounds complicated, once you've replaced a few panels it becomes second nature. If your first panel takes you an hour, your third or fourth might only take 10 or 15 minutes.


How can I change the hinge side on an LG LBN10551PV refrigerator?

I called LG electronics at 1 (800) 243-0000 and went through the phone tree to the parts department. I was connected to their West Coast (US) distributor and finally got a call back. The part is on its way.

The moral of the story is the parts distributor knows more about the fridge than the email support person at LG.


Doing drywall panels on ceiling share joists at edges?

The edges of drywall must share the stud/joist. If they float, they'll sag, no matter how much tape and mud you put on them. Especially on ceilings where gravity will be the enemy.
If you're having serious issues getting the screws into the edges of the sheets on only 1/2 the joist width, you could add a 2x4 nailer to pick up the edge of the next sheet, but that's a last resort.


How to install a door in a load bearing basement wall that is only 80 inches high

You will need a new rough opening that will measure 76 1/2" X 26 1/2", give or take 1/4" This is assuming there is nothing on the floor above like pianos, bookcases, and such. This also assuming that there is nothing required above in the way of a point load that happens to be right at the location of the new header.

To add the header, cut out the 2 top plates at the sides of the studs you want to keep for the beginning of the rough opening. You can temporally support the one joist in the middle if you choose, IF there is no load on the floor in that area. If there is a load, then this whole idea needs to be rethought. Using 4X4 solid wood cut to the length between the 2 cuts where the plates were. Set it in place, keeping it in place with a few toenails. It needs to move a little. Make sure it is tight to the center joist and pretty level. After that is confirmed, measure the jack stud lengths that will hold the header. Add 1/8" to that number. By the way if there is tile on the floor above, this may or will crack it. The first piece you cut will go in readily. DO NOT nail it, Cut the other, this one will need to be driven in. Set the top in place and drive the bottom in. If it gets really tough to drive in and the bottom is still 4 " away from the stud, remove it and cut it 1/16" shorter. It should drive in all the way this time. While driving things will shift around and settle in. Drive everything back in line and nail everything off. Some folks may say put truss plates at the meeting place where the header and plates meet, but the subfloor above will not let anything spread, and the new jack studs will not let anything drop. So I would not sweat the plates. Now cut out the bottom plate. set your door

The doors you need can be ordered cut to 74" instead of 80". This door will be a 24" wide door. It is a special order but it will be done right by the maker of the door. If you must do it yourself, you will need to cut the bottom 2" off the door, and with a table saw, CAREFULLY skin the finish layer off the bottom filler, clear the webbing out of the bottom if it is a hollow core door and cover all meeting surfaces in glue. It will be messy. Insert the filler. Clean most of the glue mess with a damp sponge and water. Use 2 strips of wood the width of the door and clamp them on with wax paper between the wood and the door to keep the glue from bonding the wood to the face of the door. Let it dry for a day, trim off the excess glue and clean up the cuts and prime. Cut the bottoms of the jambs and set your door(s).

The downside of this is the knob will be 6" lower. The bottom hinge will be at the floor as well. This is why the door should be custom ordered.

Of course you could cut the top off and the bottom, and rework everything, but that is up to you.

FREE TIP OF THE DAY!!!!

If you are planning to salvage the plaster wall, your best chance to do so is screw a strip of 1X over the stud that the cut will be at, top to bottom. Screw it (not nailed, vibrations destroy plaster) about every foot, closer is better, not farther. Do this on both sides. This will keep the wood lath from flying off when the cutting starts for the opening. This is after the new jack studs are in place and secured.


I just had a heat pump installed. I had central air already so the duct work was there already for a/c. Should my vents in the ceiling be changed?

There is something to what you've heard, but it's not like you will get no heating with the current system. It may not be ideal, but it'll work. Unless you live in the Southern hemisphere, you should already know if it's going to be an issue or not. Most registers do not blow flat across the ceiling but at an outwards, downwards angle.

You could change out the registers for those with a more straight down configuration, or even a simple grille with no directional fins. But also consider what happens in the Summer. Air con blowing straight down is not good for the same reason it's good for heating. You should select the dispersion pattern for the most critical condition.

In primarily hot climates, air con takes priority, do what's best for that. It's the other way around for primarily cold climates. Or obtain adjustable registers so you can direct the flow as needed.


Sounds like the frig is nearing the end of its usable life.  You can try the hard start kit. A new capacitor may be in order as well.  I these don't help I would start saving.


This is a guess from the prints, your ac is probably on the high speed winding of the blower and the heat is on the low speed of the blower, when in ON it may use the high speed winding try disconnecting terminal 4 to the motor and make sure it doesn’t trip the breaker , this would narrow it down to the blower motor winding And you could use just the high speed winding until you can afford to replace the blower.


What should I do immediately after a clean water flood to minimize damage?

DIY: Ventilate, ventilate, ventilate. You want to RUSH to Home Depot and get some of those giant fans ... plus a couple of dehumidifiers. If you have air conditioning, crank it as low as it will go for a few days.

Personally, I would call in a company like ServPro that does emergency water remediation to evaluate and help fix the problems.


Anecdotal:

I had to replace the lever in my Toto toilet. I went to the store, asked for a lever with a dual 45 degree bend "S" in the lever. The guy got me one. I had to return it, because Toto has multiple lever models with dual 45 degree S bends in them. I never thought they were that specialized.

In short, it depends.


Increased Water Pressure after Expansion Tank Replacement

The banging in the pipes may be water hammer.

You can test your water pressure with a simple gauge. Some are sold with a garden hose fitting for easy connection to an outdoor hose bibb or to a clothes washer supply valve. Consider choosing a gauge that has two needles: one needle shows the pressure in real time while the other needle shows the maximum pressure. That second needle tells the story when there's a water hammer or thermal expansion problem. In the USA residential water pressure is often regulated to no more than 60-70 psi. Many water pressure regulators are adjustable by turning a screw on the regulator.

Although expansion tanks exist primarily to absorb thermal expansion from a tank-style water heater, they can also help mitigate water hammer. Did you confirm the air pressure in the expansion tank was correct at the time of installation? It may have been shipped with some pressure in it, but the air pressure should be adjusted to match the setting of your water pressure regulator. If the air pressure isn't correct the expansion tank can't perform its job as well.

Also, the air can leak over time, so the tank pressure should be checked occasionally.


Can I use a 3 speed wall switch with a ceiling fan that comes with a remote?

Get a fan that does not have a built-in remote receiver

Most fans with built-in receivers have the remote receiver rather tightly coupled to the fan, with no instructions for how to remove it and all power to the receiver for both fan and light control supplied by a single hot wire.  Fans with pull-chains, though, do not have this problem -- their fan and light hot wires are brought out separately, allowing use with whatever setup you wish, whether it be a "quiet 3 speed" control or a fully variable control, as well as multi-way setups.


How can I keep animals out of my chimney?

Sounds like you need a chimney cap

These come in a variety of sizes and shapes.  They keep out most rain and snow and, most importantly, animals.

You should attach any cap with stainless screws and lead anchors. Sealant is not a big issue, since there is no need for air or water tight joints. While sealant might hold in most conditions, strong winds could rip the cap off if it is not mechanically attached.


How can I adapt a wall outlet to suface mount conduit?

There are collar boxes available that have conduit KO's (knockouts). Just install one on top of the existing device box and run your conduit.

This one is even better as it has more volume:

Brand: Steel City, Part number:531511234UB

Here is a raised device cover to be used with the 4x4 box shown. They can be had in any number of different configurations.


The rules for box fill are contained in NEC 314.16(B). Generally, if you are using 14 AWG wire, you need 2 inches of space for

each power carrying (hot and neutral) wire
all ground wires counted as one
internal cable clamps (usually in metal boxes) counted as one (external clamps and built-in clamps on a plastic box don't count)
hickeys or other light fitting devices count as one
each strap containing a device (a duplex outlet or double switch count as one)

If the wire is 12 AWG, all figures are increased to 2.25.

If you do the math and your box has too many wires, including any you need to add, you need either a bigger box or a second box.

If appearance isn't an issue, you can get box extenders that protrude from the front and add inches.

Depending on how the wires feed into the box, you maybe able to add another box a few inches to one side or the other, removing a few circuits from the original box, terminating them in the new, and just connecting the live feed between the old and new.


How do I seal a leaky roof and repair the minor ceiling damage it caused?

It is normal to fix the leak by the vent pipe using roofing cement from the outside. It is hard to provide guidance on specific details for your case because we have not seen your vent pipe location and installation technique but here are some things to consider.

There is normally a metal, plastic or rubber flashing piece that fits around the vent pipe and includes a riser piece around the pipe that comes up some distance from the roof surface. If this item is torn, rusted through or cracked it may really be necessary to replace it. The riser is either self sealing to the vent pipe, has a rubber gasket around the pipe to seal it or roofing cement is used to seal the riser/vent area.
The vent flashing piece is normally installed in such a way that it goes under the shingles on the up slope side. Roofing cement can be used under the shingle tabs on this up slope side to keep them glued to the flashing piece but if properly installed would not normally be necessary.
The vent flashing on the down slope side is installed over the top of the shingles. Roofing cement can be used under the flashing to seal against the shingles but in normal installations should not be necessary. On this exposed part of the flashing any exposed nails should be sealed with a dab of roof cement.

Here is what a typical vent installation looks like:

For your drywall issues - If the drywall material itself was not exposed to water for a long time and dried out quickly you are probably OK without having to replace it. If it had standing water laying on it for a longer period if time then the integrity of the paper material and the inner core may have been compromised. This will be noticeable if the drywall in the exposed area is sagging, has peeling cover paper or the gypsum material inside the drywall develops a crumbly texture. If the drywall has these degradation characteristics it would be necessary to cut out the areas that are affected and install a new piece. If having to do this cut a large enough area so you can either make the new joints at a ceiling joist or install 3/4 inch thick pine boards flat at the edge of the cut out area. You screw into these wood strips from both sides of the cutout area to hold the patch even and secure with the existing drywall edge.

The picture that you show is apparently where the water leaked into the crack between two sheets of the drywall. It wetted the drywall taping job on the finished side and it let go from the underlying drywall paper material. The proper way to fix this is to use a sharp razor knife to cut away the parts of the taping that have failed back to where the joint is still secure. When cutting use extreme care not to cut into the drywall paper itself. Then clean up the exposed joint area and apply new taping material in the joint area. The cleanup should include some sanding of the adjacent painted area to cut the gloss surface. I recommend the newest fiberglass web type tape with the self stick surface on one side. Install this tape material over the joint areas and out onto the existing ceiling surface by six to eight inches. Then use a wide taping knife to apply a new layer of drywall mud into the open seam and out onto the surrounding ceiling surface. The idea is to feather out the area from the patch out onto the adjacent surface. It is usually recommended to do this process in two or three thin coats instead of trying to do it all at once. Sand smooth as each coat has dried. I then recommend painting the new patch area with a good quality primer paint.

Next you will want to try to hide the patch. This requires trying to apply a replacement texture to the ceiling over the patch. For the type of texture showing in your photo I have had success applying a thinned drywall mud over the primed surface using a three inch paint roller with the longest knapp you can find. There are other techniques that can be tried as well including using a wet real sponge in thinned drywall mud. (It takes experimentation). After you get some kind of replacement texture in place then paint over it with another coat of primer. Finally you can arrange to repaint the ceiling to get a uniform finish.


You'll need a good rigid frame. I don't think 1x4 will do it, pegboard is very floppy.  I'd probably suggest 2x4, and use two sheets of pegboard to conceal them some, sandwiching the 2x4s between two sheets.  The other advantage is that you won't see the hooks from the opposing side.  One complication is that it's likely to be top heavy so you need to make the base "outriggers" quite long so it doesn't fall over.

It will be pretty simple other than the angled cuts, which you can figure out empirically by laying out the inverted T portion of the base, and then cutting the braces to fit.  There are many good introductory books and websites, take a look at Taunton Press, I'm sure they have plenty. When you buy your lumber get "KD" 2x4s rather than run of the mill stuff which will have high water content and tend to warp as it dries. The stuff you want will feel relatively light for it's size.  Sight down each edge and look for twists or warps.

OK, that get you off to a good start?


How do I treat / maintain IKEA Platta wood patio tiles?

These tiles are made of Acacia wood, which is OK for outdoor use, but must be re-oiled every year.

Here is my suggestion for yearly maintenance:

To smooth out the roughness, hand sand with a high grit sandpaper (I would avoid using a power sander)
Thoroughly clean the area using a stiff bristle brush and water, with a small amount of a mild detergent soap
Allow the deck to dry completely
Apply a light coat of tung oil with a paintbrush, wait 30 minutes, and wipe the excess off with a clean cloth.


Can NM cable be installed in a junction box mounted to a floor joist in an unfinished area?

You can definitely use joists to support light and switch boxes. You just need to think it out and know what type of fixture is going up there. Recessed lighting needs a little more planning as they are usually installed between joists. Happy wiring.


What kind of ventilation do I need in my workshop?

If you are doing a lot of soldering then a dedicated soldering fume extraction unit would be a good idea. You can put the end of the hose right next to the soldering operation.

For an example on YouTube of someone who does a lot of soldering using one and showing how much gunk they stop you from breathing:

Loius Rossman: A word on soldering and fume extraction


Water leaking from concrete slab porch into rooms below. How do I stop the leaks?

Concrete always cracks and is porous to water.
What you have is a roofing question.  The only line of defense is what's above the concrete, and it better be elastomeric to account for crack expansion and contraction.

These rooms are likely not insulated.  A spray foam roofing material applied above the concrete may be just the answer.  The foam will easily absorb the crack motion below, AND give you quite a bit of R value per inch in insulation.  You'd then need to build a new porch surface on top of the foam.

Or look for products designed for walking rooftop decks. Rubber Membrane Flat Roofs (EPDM) for example, you'd basically glue a giant sheet of rubber on top of the porch.  You'd get no insulation, but your water problem would be solved.

Yes there are crack injection kits meant for radon or foundation work.  You could inject the two cracks you know about today.  But you can't inject the crack that will form next winter.  Your only sure solution is a membrane roof on top of the deck.


Stove element gets hot, but not red hot. Why?

Different burners need different infinite switches. My large burners require a switch rated for 8.9-11A while the smaller burners require a lower current (4-7A if I remember correctly). If you bought a switch designed for a small burner to operate your large burner, it will get warm but not very hot.


Purchased 1980 home, exterior outlet not working

The fact of the wires being left in the box but not capped is practically proof that they are not hooked up to anything on the other end.

The reason is, no sane person would energize wires that are just tucked into a box without capping.  In fact I believe energizing a set of wires to nothing is a code violation, even if they are capped.  Which they are not.

So it'll be a bit of a bug hunt to find the other end of this cable.


What kind of cylinder do I need for this type of lock?

You can use a standard mortise cylinder, but it needs the correct tailpiece fitted
Based on the patent you linked (good find!), your lockset does work with a standard mortise cylinder (item 30 in Figure 2).  However, different mortise cylinders accept different styles of tailpieces to interface with different locksets.  While you appear to have the roller (item 36 in Figure 2) that mates with the T-slot (item 63 in Figure 3) in your lockset, the tailpiece (called "cam" by the patent, item 32 in Figure 2) that interfaces with that roller is missing.  Fleetwood may be able to sell you a spare tailpiece if you ask nicely (using the term "tailpiece" for what you're after should help, as tailpieces are commonly needed spare parts in the locksmithing world); if not, you'll have to have one fabricated (it doesn't look like a terribly hard machine-shop job to me, at least, though).  Once you have the correct part, you can simply attach it to the back of the mortise cylinder's core, provided you have a mortise cylinder that accepts two-screw tailpieces (some use a different style).


How can I protect my hardwood floors without sanding and refinishing?

You could apply a few coats of a water-based clear finish to the floor. This you can apply with a roller and it dries fast so you can probably do two or three coats in as many days. Then later, if you choose to to a more complete job, you will fix the sag and then re-sand the entire floor and apply finish again. This would only cost you the price of the can of finish and a paint roller.


So did you wire the GFCI "the same way" which would mean ignoring the warning tape and connecting (probably) hot to the LINE hot and neutral to the LOAD neutral? [less probably the Hot to LOAD hot and the neutral to LINE neutral, given the "usual" interpretation of "top")

That won't work and would tend to explain the problem.

Try connecting both wires you have to the LINE terminals, ONLY, and see what happens. Ah, your pictures indicate that you have more wires than you mentioned - still, the problem is almost certainly due to the fact that the two screws on a "normal" outlet are tied together (unless the "tab" is broken, usually on the hot side only, which is very common in kitchen outlets wired as a MWBC - but usually that brings a red wire into the picture.) The screws on a GFCI are different - one set is the LINE where power comes in, the other set is the LOAD and normally under protective tape in hopes that the person installing it will realize that they are different than normal outlets.

You can wire-nut all the whites you have together with a short white (commonly known as a pig-tail) and connect THAT to LINE neutral, and wire-nut all the blacks together with a short black and connect that to the LINE hot, which should work.

It will likely also work (and GFCI protect something else, but we don't know what yet) if you put one "set" of wires on the LINE and the other "set" on the load, rather than "crossing" sets as you have it - i.e. probably the "looped" wires are a set, and the end-stripped wires are a set, and one or the other of those is also the connection to power - I'd guess the looped set, but that's just a guess. If it does not work that way, swap sets and try again.


Pressure testing downspout and shower nipples

I have never used a mixing valve, but you should be fine. I would use only cold water side, and open the valve a small amount. Slowly increase the water to increase pressure. I would only go half way. Realize, that once in service, you won't really have a huge pressure build up because the shower has holes, and the tub spout won't cause any pressure build up.


Non-traditional control for three hole bathroom faucet

An Escutcheon or Deck Plate can cover the outer 2 holes, allowing you to use any 1-hole faucet you like. The downside is that they can be quite large, and the selection at 8 inches isn't that great. Example product.
(Whether this would fit with your preferred style is a different question.)

You could also have a 1-hole faucet, put a soap dispenser in one of the holes, and a simple cover over the third. That would be less than ideal, but so would an escutcheon, and it might work better for you.


Where should carbon monoxide detectors be located?

The International Association of Fire Chiefs recommend a carbon monoxide detector on every floor of your home, including the basement. A detector should be located within 10 feet of each bedroom door and there should be one near or over any attached garage. Each detector should be replaced every five to six years.

Positioning them at head height is recommended, and Be-Alarmed suggests:

Do not place the alarm in a cupboard, behind furniture, near an outside door or ventilation ( e.g. extractor fans or cooker hoods)
Do not place alarms directly next to fires, boilers, cookers or heaters – the alarm should be at least 1 meter away from any of these appliances
Do not place an alarm in an area of high condensation and steam such as a bathroom or kitchen or sources of steam and condensation
The alarm should not be placed on a ceiling like a smoke alarm


Is this a gas valve behind stove? I can't move it to turn it off

Yes it's a gas valve. Sometimes they become very stiff when they aren't operated for a long time. In the photo you posted, notice the little tab sticking down from the silver lever. That's a stopper; it limits the rotation of the lever. Make sure you're attempting to rotate the lever in the correct direction, ie not pushing against that limiter (or another less visible one).
The shutoff valve at an appliance should work reliably so that gas can be shut off in case of emergency (or convenience, as in the case of replacing an appliance). I suggest the following:

Learn where your gas meter and main shutoff are located and how to operate that shutoff.
Be prepared to replace this appliance shutoff valve - have parts and tools on hand, or a plumber identified, and work at a time when you can deal with having a gas outage for a few hours at least.
Attempt to turn the lever on the valve with a wrench. If it turns easy, operates properly, and doesn't start leaking out the valve stem then you're all done. If it breaks, leaks, or things otherwise go badly then at least you went into it prepared with a recovery plan!


What size wire for my 240 v 50 amp sub panel

Get a nice BIG panel. Panel spaces are cheap when you're buying the panel, and 50A@240V will support more stuff than you think!
You need to bring over a 4-wire feed.  2 hots + neutral + ground. Must keep neutral and ground separated at the subpanel.
At only 125' you do not need to upsize the wires for voltage drop.
You cannot use NM cable.  If you use UF cable (25" burial depth) you need #6 copper but I don't recommend copper on feeders this large, waste of money.
Any other type of cable or wire, you'll need #8 copper (again not recommended) or #6 aluminum or larger.
Whatever you pick for conductors, ground must be -2 of that (e.g. if you use #2 aluminum then #4 ground).  This is because of your 50A objective.
Direct burial is 24" cover above the top of the wires.
Conduit in the ground is 18" cover above top of conduit.
Rigid Metal Conduit or Intermediate Metal Conduit is 6" cover, except under vehicle pathways it must be 12".


If you are getting voltage to the meter but no gas it is either a bad gas valve or no gas. Check you have gas supply. If it were the pressure switches you would not trigger the igniter. If it were the flame proving system it would light and then go out after 2-3 seconds. If it were the circuit board you wouldn’t get 27 volts at the gas valve. No gas or very low volume or bad gas valve. I have seen where a clogged gas pipe would give me pressure but as soon as the gas valve opens the pressure drops to nothing, restricted line.


You have a special panel called a "Rule of Six" panel. The top 12 spaces in the panel are the "Rule of Six" area, and up to six breakers are allowed in that space.  Collectively, these are your house's main breakers.

The breaker in the lower right of the Rule of Six area powers the breakers below, which are a "built-in subpanel" if you will.

You may notice you have 7 breakers in the Rule of Six area.  That is not allowed, but your plan will correct this.

The 150A Siemens breaker, the Q2150B, is a beast.  It takes up four spaces. That means you will need to eliminate or relocate two  2-pole breakers to make room for it.  An amusing side-effect is this will reduce you to 6 breakers. You are still not legal because the double-double-stuff breaker in spaces 3-4 is not allowed in this panel in that space. Double-stuffs are disallowed in the top 8 rows, as the diagram and numbering show.

I would go a different way.  I would fit a 150A subpanel, and then move everything in the Rule of Six area to it.  Now you have 4 spaces for the 150A breaker, two spaces for the "main" breaker, and 6 spaces free.   Now I'd put the three 40A breakers in those six spaces. Done!

On second thought, I would put the three 40A breakers in the new subpanel, and leave the 6 spaces empty.  That gives more reasonable overcurrent protection for the service wiring since you can only draw 250A, not 370A as in my first scenario.


Competing conditioned/combustion air flow; worry about CO?

You're right to worry that opening up that room to the rest of the basement will mix combustion gases with the rest of the air.

I'm guessing from some clues (oil-fired boiler, baseboard heat) that you're in a cooler climate.

You could cool that space separately from the rest of the house.  Can you draw in outside air on a thermostat-triggered vent fan?  A/V and network equipment can operate at a higher temperature than we generally keep our homes.  85 degrees generally isn't a problem if there's enough circulation to prevent hot spots.

If it were my house, I would build or install a cabinet to hold the equipment.  Use a short piece of flex duct to draw in cool outside air at the bottom.  Use another with a thermostatically controlled fan to exhaust it at the top.  On the exterior, you would use something like a dryer vent hood to prevent water, bugs, and rodents from getting in.  Inside the cabinet, mount a couple additional fans to ensure everything gets adequate circulation.

If the risks of outside dust and temperature swings are concerning, you could do the same solution and vent it into the basement.  If you did that, you'd need to make sure the cabinet and all ductwork are sealed tightly (again with the combustion gases).  You'd be able to skip the thermostat on the fan as well.  But you'd have to listen to that fan whine pretty much all the time you're in the basement.  A fan that can move adequate air will make some noise.


How do I purge the air from a hot water furnace with zones

Well... the way that my father does it is that he isolates the zone from the other zones by shutting off the manual cutoffs.  Then attaches a pump to the drain cock on both sides of the zone, and runs the pump -- with luck you'll get the air out of the top of the line and back to the pump, and the auto-fill should replace the water.

Alternatively, you may have air separators at the top of each run, and you can open up the valve at the top to bleed those.


Changing pressure of well only by pressure switch?

In responding to this, I am including information from your original post. (You said your well is about 100 ft from the house, that the storage tanks are next to the well, and that your plumbing is mostly PEX.)  I am assuming that your house is not elevated far above your well.  If it is, then you will have roughly 1 PSI additional pressure loss for every 2 ft of elevation.

PEX is sold using tubing size and not pipe size, so if there is 100 ft of 3/4" PEX connecting your well to your house, then the ID of that tube is only 0.681 inches and the pressure drop may be very noticeable.  Running two fixtures or flushing a toilet while running a sink might cause 10 psi pressure drop across the run length.  If the house is piped mostly with 1/2" PEX, then there would be additional pressure losses there also.

Instead of setting the system operating pressure ever higher in an attempt to compensate for this, I would suggest correctly setting the air charge in the storage tanks for the reason I mention in my comment under your post above, and then use a couple of inexpensive pressure gauges to measure the pressure at various points in the system to locate the losses.  For example, use the pressure gauge at the storage tanks, put another gauge at a spigot on the side of the house, and another on a sink in the house.  Turn on a tub and a couple faucets and record the pressures.  If a significant amount of loss is between the well and the house, then replace that line with a larger size.

40-60 PSI is the upper operating range for many residential well systems, so I would not increase the system pressure above that if the issue can be practically resolved some other way.


Using an induction hob through a wooden surface

Induction hobs work by creating a magnetic field which causes electrical currents in the base of the pot or pan.  These currents heat the pan through normal electrical resistance.  The further away the pot is from the hob, the weaker the magnetic field, so you're going to lose a lot of efficiency right there.

From a safety point of view, there are several oils that have smoke points over 400 °F so if you ever fry your food, you'll probably start to see the wood charring.

Finally, how are you going to keep the wood clean? Any spills are just going to soak right into it.


How can I install the electrical and plumbing for an aquarium filtration system through an exterior wall?

I don't claim to know California building code. That said:

I don't think the building code cares what you do with your aquarium piping, so long as it doesn't connect to your residential plumbing. Do what you want with that top-off tube.

As for electrical, if you want to run wire then it's a bigger deal and there are lots of rules you'll need to follow. Too many to list here.

Essentially, you'll be looking to install an outdoor outlet that you can plug your pump into (If you try to permanent wire it, then even more rules will apply).


How do you increase humidity with HRV system?

You cannot actively increase humidity with an HRV, at least during the cold months. The dial control allows you to run the unit as needed to reduce humidity by exchanging more moist indoor air with dry outdoor air. If you'd like to raise humidity you need to actually introduce moisture into your home.
A standalone humidifier in an appropriate location has done well for me in the past if you wish to avoid the expense of a whole-house unit. Place it where the air movement won't create discomfort and where the HVAC system will help circulate and distribute moisture.
By the way, you should not settle on a fixed RH for the entire winter season. You want to vary it depending on the outdoor temperature to avoid excessive moisture buildup and to prevent discomfort. 35% is quite low if it's 50 degrees F. outside, and may be high if it's -30F.

Outdoor temperature over 50˚F, indoor humidity levels shouldn’t exceed 50%
Outdoor temperature over 20˚F, indoor humidity levels shouldn’t exceed 40%
Outdoor temperature between 10˚F and 20˚F, indoor humidity levels shouldn’t exceed 35%
Outdoor temperature between 0˚F and 10˚F, indoor humidity levels shouldn’t exceed 30%
Outdoor temperature between -10˚F and 0˚F, indoor humidity levels shouldn’t exceed 25%
Outdoor temperature between -20˚F and -10˚F, indoor humidity levels shouldn’t exceed 20%
Outdoor temperature at -20˚F or lower, indoor humidity levels shouldn’t exceed 15%

source


Eaton Cutler-Hammer Plug-On Neutral (differences)

Eaton - Catalog numbers still to come

I found this, not sure where though. The last page has "March 2019".

Example:

New plug-on neutral catalog number is:

CHFP120DF

Similar previous design catalog numbers:

CHFAFGF120PN
CHFAFG120

Now if I could only find these two AFCI Plug-On Neutral breakers:

CHFP115AF (AFCI 15 Amp)
CHFP120AF (AFCI 20 Amp)


If I drill holes in a door, would I then at a later time be able to conceal them reasonably well?

There are better options to attach temporarily fixtures.  I would first try using 3M Command Strips to secure the organizer to the door.  In this way you can easily take it down without drilling holes in your door.  They also make velcro so you can remove the organizer and put it back later if you wish.


I agree with Ed Beal. But, the culprit should be the bathroom. Lay paper towels (select-a-size) or a strip of toilet paper along the bath's adjoining wall to see if it gets wet anywhere.

I suspect it's coming from the toilet's seal at the floor & that seal needs replacement, they can leak a clear water stream & not be noticed. It could also be traveling under the finished floor, thus why it's depositing outside of the bathroom.


How can I override a motion detector light?

Most motion detectors have a built-in override:

Normally the switch is kept on all the time. The motion detector monitors ambient light (daylight) and then activates when it's dark enough, and motion is detected.
If you turn the switch off and on within a second or so, the light will stay on, and this overrides motion detection.
To go back to normal operation, turn the switch off and wait ~10 seconds, then turn back on.
I believe most will also go back to normal operations after some hours, or after the sun comes up again

It is possible that you'll damage the electronics by overriding the detector.

The safe way to do this would be to use a relay.


How can I replace a glass shade on my bathroom vanity?

You have three possibilities, not counting replacing the fixture and or striking out.  I've been dealing with lighting manufactures for over 25 years and it is surprising how little information they put on their fixtures.  It's probably that way to keep out of lawsuits in case of something failing.

Take a matching shade to a lighting store and see if they have it.  If not consider replacing all the shades with one that they stock.  The good thing about it is that if another breaks you know where to get a replacement.
Turn off the breaker (not just the light switch) take the fixture off the wall or ceiling and look for a sticker on it with the manufactures name on it.  This will get you pointed to the correct web site that you can find the fixture part number.  There might be a contact number for the country you are in and you can call them find a replacement.
Here's the Sherlock Holmes version and the last resort.  Turn off the breaker (not just the light switch) take the fixture off the wall or ceiling and find the UL sticker for it.  When you find that look for a number that has an 'e' in front of it like e223973.  Now go the UL Online Certifications Directory  Enter the UL number and it should give you the manufacturer.  Hopefully the stars will be aligned and you will find everything you need.

If you are lucky like me and live in a track house, remember the electrical went to the lowest bidder and cheap fixtures and manufacturers come and go.

The third sounds the most fun, but the 1st is the most practical and you can have a new fixture just by changing the shades.  Getting shades shipped is hit or miss on getting it not broken, and postal, UPS or Fedex or ??? does not insure glass.  Also if you do find it on the internet, there is always the possibility that the design or neck has been modernized and will not match or fit what you have.


The black is bad get a screwdriver and see if the plywood is compromised. Push on the screwdriver and if it goes into the wood 1/8 “ or further the wood needs to be replaced. If it is still solid I would use a very strong solution of hydrogen peroxide and water 5-8%  and saturate all the fungus areas a second treatment may be needed but this will kill the surface fungus that will break down the plywood.
Note 8% hydrogen peroxide will bleach just about anything including your hair so use ppe. It can be applied with a paint roller or sponge, at this strength I would not spray it as I do with 3-4%.
AAA.  Always add acid to water to reduce the exothermic reaction when diluting concentrated hydrogen peroxide with water.


That snake is a nice one I would open that vent on the end and go straight in with the snake it should do the job, an augger only goes to the trap for the most part and in my experiance the plug is further down where other things connect. If you can't get that vent off you may be able to go to a sink that is close or find another clean out but remove the trap and go straight in. In my location that vent would require an air admittance valve since it is inside and some areas don't allow that at all (even though it is the same as a sink trap).


The heads of screws typically do come in standardised sizes. However the sizing scheme differs from the the standard screw sizes.

For example Philips head screwdrivers typically come in PH0, PH1, PH2, and PH3 sizes. Though smaller (e.g. PH000) and larger sizes exist.

Similarly other heads such as Torx, PoziDriv and flat head screws have standardised sizes using similar naming schemes (e.g. PZ1, PZ2 for PoziDriv).


How do I remove molding with out damaging the molding or the wall?

(after slicing the paint/caulk seam...) A wooden shingle slid behind a small prybar (http://www.hardwareworld.com/SharkGrip-Prybar-~-8-pGJXJX8.aspx) is ideal.

It also helps to find the studs and use the prybar over them because
   1) that's where the nails in the molding are most likely to be, and hence lessen the chance of damaging the trim
   2) the sheetrock will be less likely to break in those places as well.

There's also often a sort of order that it is installed, and is most easily removed in the reverse order. So take a look at which way the pieces overlap at mitered seams.


Correct crimping tool for these sleeves? Are these the correct sleeves?

The tool you purchased is for  electronics wire connectors and is not strong enough for  wire rope/cable ferrules. This  is the tool you need.


That's likely a cleanout for your sewer line. When opened, you can run an snake down the line to remove any blockage without ripping out your entire foundation. Here's what it would look like from the side:

And the cap itself can have different styles:


Sound proof my guest unit carved out of main house

Sound proofing is difficult.
One extra layer of drywall and green glue will have a noticeable effect but don't expect it to be dramatic.
To give you an idea.  I have a laminate with underpad, 2" concrete floor, 2x10 floor assembly, roxul batt insulation, 5/8" drywall between me and people living under me.  This deadens noise such that I can't understand conversations - I can hear them they sound as if someone might be outside walking by having a conversation.
It would help if you drew a plan view of how your guest room is craved out.  The best solution for this would be to build a extra wall off set from the existing one that separates the spaces, fill the wall with roxul insulation (you want mass), and drywall it.  Depends if you can stand to loose 4.5" of your room.


Plumbers putty. Remove the drain and apply a new string of plumbers putty.


If you attach to the studs with screws it will last a lifetime.

I have opted out of HardiBacker or Durock in favor of DensShield drywall by Georgia Pacific.

DensShield comes in different thicknesses so you could match the thickness of what you removed.

You would then screw it to the wall through the existing drywall along the stud lines. Then coat joints with RedGard or equivalent. Then attach your tile with thin set. DensShield is vinyl coated and seals out moisture except for the joints that must be sealed.

Good luck!


What is the cheapest way to add texture to a wall

Since you should paint over any texture you apply, combine the two into one step and use a texture paint such as popcorn or sand, both available from Home Depot (similar products are available at other stores).

Alternatively, if you already have some paint, mix your own using a texture additive:


Troubles replacing an old outlet with a GFCI outlet

Any GFCI can protect downstream parts of the circuit.  You move that circuit (hot and neutral) to the LOAD side of the GFCI.

Here's the trick:  You must move hot and neutral together as a matched set.  If you don't, you'll get constant GFCI trips.  This can get complicated with light switches, so you have to slow down and learn what you're doing.

Whenever you get a complicated one, seriously consider going to the previous location from which that location is fed... and put the GFCI there instead.  If that is the first location, replace the breaker with a GFCI breaker and call it done.

If you don't see a light to be switched, it's possible that switch works a garbage disposal.  Switches near sinks usually do that.  If the disposal has a receptacle, it'll be under your sink.  That definitely needs GFCI protection.


Issues with stacking shipping containers at odd angles?

I suspect you'd do better to support the upper level on columns/posts, rather than directly supporting on the containers below. I also suspect that you're engaged in fuzzy thinking if you think 3 40x8 foot boxes will make a nice triangle, unless you REALLY start messing with the structure. 90 degree ends don't make good 60 degree corners.

I think you'd likely be better off building from scratch if you want the shape you describe. It's not well-suited to shipping containers, and by the time you cobble things together to make it work with shipping containers, a ground-up build will probably be ahead, and far less compromised.


Is it safe to have two circuits passing through one junction box?

That's what's known as a Multi-wire Branch Circuit, and it's perfectly acceptable if done properly.   Though it sounds like yours is not.

First, the ungrounded  (hot) conductors must be on separate legs of the service.  Secondly, the breaker(s) protecting the circuit must have the handles tied together, or a double pole breaker should be used.

To fix the problem, install an appropriately sized double pole breaker. The red wire will connect to one pole, and the black to the other.  That way both circuits will always be turned on/off at the same time.


how much weight a specific sized concrete slab can carry?

Depending on the percentage of the portions in the mix , a fully cured slab of concrete should have a compressive strength of between 2200-5000 psi. So depending on what the slab needs to support will determine the thickness and configuration of the concrete. A standard residential driveway is commonly 4-6 inches thick concrete with re-enforced steel bars. A residential garage normally is constructed on a 4 inch mono-lithic re-barred slab. These are just generalizations and you should consider all extenuating factors for your project for your region.


Can I remove the top plate at top of an interior NLB wall?

Sure, you can remove portions of a non-load  bearing wall provided: 1) it is truly non-load bearing (including no point loads) , 2) the second plate is not used as a splice in the top plate, 3) it’s not a lateral resistance wall (no plywood,etc. on it)


I need help supporting and jacking up my attached, wood front porch

Without awaiting the rest of your pictures, I'll note that if you are removing the decking you're a hop, skip, and a jump from removing the whole porch (or at least the lower frame) which might make it a lot easier to work on. Temporary roof support during porch work is often done with 2x10's angled out into the lawn beyond the porch. Image Search for "porch roof support" if you are not familiar with the concept.


Adding gas/oil mixture into unmixed gas tank?

I think this should be fine. The mixed gas will be diluted almost 10x if you fill the rest of the tank with fresh gas. The mower might be a little smokier than usual but you probably won't even notice.

If it makes you feel better you can keep topping up the tank with fresh gas as you use it, that will further dilute the oil. But personally I wouldn't bother.


What is the proper 'per code' method for running nonmetallic sheathed cable above a ceiling in the attic?

Accessible or not
While you might call this area inaccessible because it's small, dark, and difficult to enter. In this case, the codes definition of accessible is whether or not there's permanent stairs or a ladder.

Cable run across the top of joists
If the attic is accessible by permanent stairs or ladder, any cable running across the top of joists will have to be protected.  Protecting the cable is as simple as installing "substantial guard strips", which can simply be a 1x2 furring strip on each side of the cable.

If there's no permanent stairs or ladder, this protection only has to be provided to cables within 6 ft. of the entrance of the attic.

National Electrical Code
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 334 Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC, and NMS
334.23 In Accessible Attics. The installation of cable in accessible attics or roof spaces shall also comply with 320.23.
Article 320 Armored Cable: Type AC
320.23 In Accessible Attics. Type AC cables in accessible attics or roof spaces shall be installed as specified in 320.23(A) and (B).
(A) Where Run Across the Top of Floor Joists. Where run across the top of floor joists, or within 2.1 m (7 ft) of floor or floor joists across the face of rafters or studding, in attics and roof spaces that are accessible, the cable shall be protected by substantial guard strips that are at least as high as the cable. Where this space is not accessible by permanent stairs or ladders, protection shall only be required within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the nearest edge of the scuttle hole or attic entrance.
(B) Cable Installed Parallel to Framing Members. Where the cable is installed parallel to the sides of rafters, studs, or floor joists, neither guard strips nor running boards shall be required, and the installation shall also comply with 300.4(D).

Cable run through bored holes
You could always run the cable(s) through holes bored in sanw lumber joists, but you'll have to make sure the edge of the hole is more than 1 1/4" from the nearest edge (2" according to IRC).

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 300 Wiring Methods
300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage.
(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.
(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations,
where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members,
holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less
than 32 mm (1 1/4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood
member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the
cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by
screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least
1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width
installed to cover the area of the wiring.

NOTE: When dealing with engineered structural members, boring holes may not be an option.


How should I properly connect outdoor string lights to power outlet?

It depends if you don't mind eventually (see below) drilling some of the brick's mortar in a few spots.
You'll need Wire Clips or Cable Clamps. You may also find the Copper version in the right Plumbing Aisle of a big box store to be most attractive and longest lived. If possible, paint your screws and washers (if any are used) or only use stainless steel screws and washers.
I presume you'll drape the extension cord over the gutter's downspout and run behind that to the outlet. If not, then you'll need more clips/clamps.
There are Adhesive Clips/Clamps (usually in the Seasonal Aisle) and I would start with those until you decide on final routing and looping. But fortunately, your outlet box accommodates a cord while being securely shut...so that's a great start.
And yes, I would and you can use the outlet box's screws for 2 clips/clamps...I would use both on one side. I'd suggest using the left plug and the right side's screws or the converse. To keep the extension cord fairly relaxed and happy in its quite low drop from the outlet box before the upturn toward the gutter.
If the cord is too stiff for the outlet box to close or to stay plugged-in. Then, using a bar or bracket from the Plumbing Aisle or Hardware Aisle with the 2 bottom screws may be needed for that taming.
And then, plan on coiling and mounting any extra extension cord to the eave's underside, for the cleanest look.


whenever i build a custom exterior jamb, i use ipe.  its stronger and harder than anything else you will find for exterior work, takes paint well, clears beautifully, and is a great wood in general.  the biggest problem you will run into with exterior jambs is moisture related warpage. ipe wont warp.

to be honest, i learned long ago the best way to do what you are doing is just build the entire jamb from scratch.  that way you get all the stops, seal mounts and extensions as an integral piece of wood.  you can make your own threshold from oak or ipe and its never going to fail.  if you do want an aluminum one, try here:

http://www.crlaurence.ca/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=28847&GroupID=58652&History=39325:4939:26565:28809:47252:28809&ModelID=58652&pom=0#

you will have to mill a sub-threshold out of wood and joint the aluminum one into it to get it work as you wish

if you try to cobble something out of an off the shelf unit, you will have caulking and glue that will eventually let in water, or you have to set the door so far towards the outside, that you get hinge swing issues with your inner nailer extensions.

you can definitely buy an exterior door, and all the seals.  then build your own jamb and put it all together.  you will be much happier for much longer.


Kitchen Faucet shuts off both Hot and cold water whenever I try to use both

Look at and read the instruction sheet that is usually in the box with the new faucet. If it is a cartridge type , the cartridge may be installed in reverse or backwards.


Is mixing shellac from flakes generally considered more cost effective than buy commercial stuff?

The flakes have a much longer shelf life than mixed shellac, somewhere on the order of 3 years vs 6 months depending on environmental conditions. That makes the flakes a better value if you can't use an entire can at once. I suspect you won't find much of a price difference. The harvest is really the largest factor in pricing.

You are correct about the customizability. Flakes can be bought in a variety of hues, where as the canned is likely blonde. Being able to precisely control the cut is nice when it comes specialty uses such as refinishing and French polishing. (You know, in case you want to seal away tobacco odors or get a piano-like finish. Or refinish a piano played by a heavy smoker.)


Is it possible to hook up a hose to my well pump?

Definitely. It looks like you can even go off one of the Tees already conveniently installed. You'll need an adapter which will depend on the hose, but very simple to install.


Use rainwater to partly supply a sprinkler irrigation system?

Simplest 100% legal way would be to make it use rain water directly from storage containers, and then a float valve that fills the rain barrel with city water if the water level gets below a certain level. This would also allow you to maintain an airgap between potable and non-potable water sources.

You're losing the free water pressure from the city water, but you already will need a pump large enough to handle the unpressurized rain water so you're using the pump for both water sources.

Also hook up a 24 VAC electric operated water solenoid valve that is controlled by your irrigation controller that shuts off the city water to the float valve to make sure that if the float valve gets stuck open that the water won't flow if the irrigation system is off. Maybe getting a 120 VAC one would be better if you make it operated by the same control that turns your pump on and off, instead of with your irrigation controller zones.

Typically that would be called a master valve in an irrigation system, but this is a little different but mostly the same idea.


What's the correct laundry drain stack order?

You'll need to change the tee on the vertical pipe to a 2" tee for the laundry drain.  You're not allowed to reduce to a 1-1/2" for a few inches of horizontal branch and then increase to 2" again for the washer trap & standpipe.  However, the washer trap & standpipe does need to be minimum 2".
PEX crimp connectors certainly can be behind drywall.  Check with your AHJ if you have any doubts about your local rules, but these are reliable connections.
You are probably going to need to reroute the copper supply pipes to fit the laundry trap in that wall cavity.  Keep in mind there are several height restrictions on laundry standpipes.  It must be >= 18" above the trap weir and 30" to 48" above the floor.  The trap itself should be >= 12" above the floor.


Thermostat not getting power and won't turn on fan or AC. Does have power with batteries, still no cooling

Ended up finding out what was wrong with it, posting it here just in case someone else stumbles on this. Since I'm in a condo, my furnace was installed in the ceiling. It also has a safety overflow switch installed: https://www.diversitech.com/en-US/item/id/2070

When the person installing the furnace popped that switch on he thought he would make it face the ground so you could see the light. But it's supposed to only trigger when the pipe is full, and condensation will always be drawn towards the ground due to gravity. After a few years enough condensation had built up to trip the SOS but not enough to drain through the pipe. I flipped it upright and everything kicked back on.


Cannot find the common wire in "box #2" on a three way circuit

You may be confused as to how 3-way circuits work, since you seem to be expecting certain colors, and are discussing "on" and "off".   3-ways do not have "on" or "off", they merely have "traveler 1" or "traveler 2".

The two travelers are interchangeable, and always run together in the same cable (with a third wire to complete the circuit).   They are almost never yellow, but I recommend you mark them with yellow tape on both ends - it makes it a lot easier to understand and work in 3-way boxes.

They can be any combination of the wire colors in cable - red/white, black/red, or black/white. This can even change in the same circuit!   That's why I recommend re-marking them.

I am fond of picking the traveler colors so that the remaining wire is the color of its function: white if neutral (in fact this is mandatory), black if always-hot, and red if switched-hot.

Once you are clear which wires are the travelers, make sure the travelers are landing on the brass screws on the 3-way switch.  The black screw goes to the always-hot or switched-hot.


How to stop coil burners from cycling off and on

Painful though this is, the correct answer is learn to cook with electric.  The stove works differently and you have to learn to deal with that.

For instance, I found that to quickly arrest heat (say, when something is boiling over), the answer is to quickly move the pot off the burner.  Obvious though it may be in hindsight, it was a real eye-opener at the time.

I do see where it has its charms, for instance if an unattended pot runs dry on an electric burner, the electric will simply hold it at target temperature and not destroy the pot.


What kind of sub-contractor do I use for cutting out a window in a wall that the kitchen and living room share?

If the wall you are dealing with has electrical and plumbing then you need a general contractor, who may sub out some parts of the job as needed to get the right specialties.

If it's just the wall w/ no wiring or plumbing then generally you need a carpenter and a finish carpenter or someone who does both.


Bathroom fan venting to attic gable screen

I would raise the rigid just so it's not going down into the insulation and then refit the flexible straight to the gable screen. There's a very little chance of any moisture accumulating anywhere in the duck run. If any did, it would evaporate quickly like the water does under your fridge. I would stay away from cutting a hole in your roof. The venting you have now should be totally sufficient. Putting a countdown timer on the vent, if separately switched, is always a good idea because you can run the vent for a longer period of time and don't have to remember to turn it off.


Pros and cons of plastic/gravel shed bases vs concrete base

I would definitely recommend gravel for the primary reason that it will drain moisture away from the shed more quickly than concrete.
As far as the plastic grid+gravel method, I don't really have firsthand experience with that style of foundation; I'm more familiar with installing a treated wood perimeter filled with compacted gravel to place the shed on. There's a pretty good how-to guide at https://www.siteprep.com/how-to-install-a-gravel-shed-foundation/ and they have a video guide embedded as well.


Can I install drywall on the ceiling, without removing crown molding?

Go ahead and place the drywall over the top edge of the crown moulding. Sounds like the wall was already re-plastered with it in place. If you tried to remove it, you may end up re-doing the walls as well. Even forgetting that, it's almost impossible to remove moulding without sustaining some loss. Without replacement material available, removal with intents of preservation is extremely risky, especially with stain grade material. You don't want to go there.

If your joists were flat, you'd still only need to shim down the first 4 feet or so along the walls, no one will see the resulting slight slope. Keep this in mind when planning your shims. It doesn't have to be perfectly flat, unless that gives you pleasure. You also don't need to shim to completely fill the gap. An 1/8" gap makes a clean shadow line that is not detrimental (assuming it is perfectly uniform) at all. It also makes finishing easier. The taped joints of drywall are normally not perfectly flat, despite the tapered edges. There is a slight bulge which is usually invisible. But against straight moulding, depending on the profile, this bulge may be visible. You might consider grinding down the edge tapers at the board corners against the wall so the joint tape can be completely buried and the yet the joint against the moulding can still be perfectly flat.


When it comes to radial bearings, the z (usually zz or zzs) denotation identifies a non-contact metal shield, the rs identifies a rubber lip seal.  None of them are waterproof, they are just all different levels of water resistant.  It depends more on operating environment, particularly temperature and bypass pressure.

I would use the zz bearings as replacement as that's what was spec'd originally.


Can a leak in a drainage pipe cause an increase in water bill?

You don't say where you're located, but around here (Massachusetts, and I'm guessing most places are the same), we get billed for both volume of water consumed and volume of sewage emitted. That's because it costs the city money to provide water, and money to dispose of sewage. In fact, costs per volume are often (always?) substantially higher for sewage than water.

Measuring volume of sewage is much harder than measuring volume of water, so generally cities will assume some ratio of incoming water to outgoing sewage. For example, 1 cubic foot of water in might imply that 0.95 cubic foot of sewage went out; given evaporation, and people watering plants, this is pretty close to the true value.

If you irrigate your lawn a lot (or leak water into your walls), your true outgoing sewage volume will be smaller (sometimes a lot smaller) than the calculated sewer volume. However, since the town can't tell the difference, you'll get billed the (sometimes a lot larger) calculated value. Since per-volume sewage fees are generally larger (e.g. a factor of 4) than water fees, this can really boost your bill (from personal experience this can add up to thousands of dollars). To avoid this, you can get a separate water meter for your irrigation system; water usage through that meter is not presumed to increase your sewage production.

But, back to your situation. If indeed water coming into your house leaks inadvertently into the environment, then the town will still bill you as if the water were actually making it back into the sewer. However, assuming you don't change your water use, this won't change your bill; it'll just mean that the town is billing you for "sewage" that is actually damaging your house rather than being treated by the town.

TL;DR: don't let water leak into your floor!


I suspect that you have a warrantee issue with the Armstrong pump.  Sounds like yours has a bad bearing or out-of-balance coupler, it happens. Normally these pumps are quiet and reliable. I wouldn't let this slide.  I suspect that the pump will experience a significantly shortened life if left in service.  FYI, there is a new class of hydronic pump on the market today.  I think it is superior to this type of pump.  They are call 'Wet Rotor'circulators or 'wet rotor' pumps.  They are actually quieter and more reliable than this style of pump. The cost is similar. And they experience fewer service issues.  Most of the major manufacturers offer this new style. Taco makes a good one and Grundfos too, however all of the major manufacturers make good products.


If you removed the GFCI you need to replace it with another or protect the entire circuit with a GFCI breaker.

If you are in the USA your area probably uses the National Electrical Code. The NEC requires garage receptacles to be protected by GFCI.

Good luck and stay safe!


What are good methods of locating plumbing blockages?

Call a pro
Call Roto-Rooter®, or any other plumber of your choice.  They'll be able to feed a camera down the line, and tell you exactly where, and what the clog is. Even without a fancy camera, a plumber should be able to use a regular snake to locate the clog.
Use a snake
If you want to give it a try yourself, plumbing snakes (auger) are available at any hardware or home improvement store.  They're available from many different manufacturers, in both hand powered, drill powered, and motor powered depending on your budget.
Using a snake is easy, but it takes a bit of practice to get a feel for locating clogs. Keep track of how much line you have fed out, and make note of it when you hit the clog.  Then measure along the pipe, to determine the location of the clog.
Magnets
If the pipes are all plastic (PVC, ABS, etc.), a strong magnet might help.

Get a strong magnet with a hole in it.
Tie a string to the magnet.
Put the magnet in the drain, and use a large volume of water to flush it down the drain.
Run another strong magnet along the outside of the pipe, until you feel the magnet inside the pipe.

Flushable transmitters
Flushable transmitters are available, that can be sent down the drain line.  Once in the line, the transmitter can be located using a receiver.
Credit to @Ed Beal
Robot
If the pipe is large enough, or you can find a robotic ball small enough (Sphero for example). You could send the robot down the drain to locate the clog. Getting the robot back, might be a challenge.
WARNINGS:

Anything you put down the drain will have to be retrieved, or small enough to be processed by the waste treatment center.
Anything put down the drain should not be damaging to the drain system, nor the sewage system.


What is this bit for with a hole in the end? [pic]

I think it would be used for pulling or twisting something.  For example, you would attach a wire to it, then engage the drill or manually rotate, thus twisting or rotating the wire.  It would also be used for fishing the wire thought a wall.  The rotation would allow it to more easily pass.


Checking the pressure
Get yourself a two way hose connector (~$6), and a water pressure gauge that fits 3/4" garden hose thread (GHT) (~$10)

Connect the pressure gauge to one of the legs of the wye connector, and turn the valve for that leg on.  Connect the wye connector to a utility sink tap, or a hose bib.  Turn the valve on the open leg of the wye connector off, and open the valve on the sink/bib.
At this point, the gauge should display the pressure within the plumbing system.
Open and close the valve on the wye connector, then check the gauge again. Do this a couple times, to make sure you're getting a consistent reading.
NOTE: When testing the pressure, you'll want to make sure the water heater is not actively heating the water. If it is, wait for it to finish before checking the pressure.
The International Plumbing Code says that the water pressure should be grater than 40 psi, but less than 60 psi. So you'll be looking for a pressure within that range.  If it's above that, you'll have to take a closer look at the system.
Determine the cause
Depending on when your home was built/remodeled, there may be a check valve installed on the main supply line.  If this is the case (should be with modern homes), then heating water can increase the pressure within the plumbing system.  If there is a check valve installed, you'll want to make sure you have an expansion tank installed near the water heater. You'll also want to check to make sure the expansion tank is in good working order.
If all that checks out, the high pressure is likely due to high supply pressure.  In this case, you'll want to install (or have installed) a pressure regulator on the main supply.
Once installed, you can use the pressure gauge setup from above, to adjust the regulator to the desired pressure.


How can I determine the source of a basement flood?

If it was a sewer back up you can install a check valve on your waste line, these need to be accessible as they require maintenance but will prevent the sewer system from backing up. Floor drains & showers are the first to flood in a back up but then toilets and washing machines, sinks all become possibilities.

Depending on the type of condensate line moving the trap higher may be the only safe method as check valves on condensate lines tend to fail.
Other than monitoring and identifying the water entrance point it may be hard to figure out, if the sewer was backed up and your sump pumps into it, where would the water go? Could the pump itself not only have been overwhelmed but provided a path for water ingress (if their is not a check valve in the pump).  I have seen sewers back up and put several feet of water in a basement with the water appearing to be clean.


You need to make the hole the "right" size - neither too big nor too small.

You should choose the size (diameter and length) of screw based on the job you are doing. You should then choose the size of wall plug based on this.

The internal diameter of the wall plug is determined by the size(s) of screw it is designed to take. The external diameter of the wall plus is determined, in part, by the load it's designed to take. A "heavy duty" plug will be bigger than a "light duty" one.

You should then choose the drill bit required to fit the plug snugly. This should be printed somewhere on the packaging. You might find you need to go one drill size larger if you are using the maximum size (diameter) screw recommended for the plug.


How to replace difficult outside hose spigot handle?

If you haven't stripped the screw head, they sell impact screw drivers for just such a situation. Like this one.

A tool like this allows you to strike the impact with a hammer while turning the screw. They use them for motorcycle cases with Phillips screws that otherwise would never come loose with hand pressure alone. It you could rent one for a few dollars it would save you some money.

Your next step is to drill out the screw and re-tap the faucet stem.

Good luck!


Code requires toilets to be caulked at the floor, that, IMO is a mistake. If the toilet does develop a leak, it will be restricted under the toilet and the subfloor, and may leak for a while before it is detected. So much for that.

The toilet can be shimmed to keep it from rocking. Because of the rocking, what is not leaking now eventually will leak.
The grout that the other installer used will act as shims to keep it from rocking as well, but back at the "if it leaks" issue. If you feel you need to seal it in some way, do not seal it 100%. Leave an inch or so not sealed at the back where it is not noticeable, that way it will look good and water can get out if need be.


On the inside door knob there is usually a small pin sometimes rectangular you need to press in that allows the inside knob to come off. Once the knob is off this will provide access to the screws. I would check the bolt/ latch these get bent and stick, I have just replaced the bolt/ latch on several doors for much less than an entire assembly.


Every building settles. A common place where drywall cracks due to settlement is at the top of doors. Minimizing joints at top of doors is highly recommended.


Electrical outlet clearance from a hot water panel radiator

I am not familiar with the NEC, but the CEC refers to usable wall space when calculating distances between receptacles; do not count the space behind an open bedroom door or under a window sill; these areas are not considered 'usable' wall space. I have found receptacles to be most usable when located closest to corners of rooms, where possible. The CEC says receptacles shall not be located above radiators; it says nothing about locating receptacles beside rads. I supose you could install them as close as practicle to the sides of the rads, but why bother? Adding an extra plug may solve your headache; they're inexpensive. I would put one in each of the three corners and one on each wall.


Self-levelling cement can be quite expensive. You might want to fill the deep gaps to the level of the rest of the floor, and then top (the whole mess) with a self-levelling product if that's your desired end-result. If you are just "cleaning up the basement" and don't have some plan in mind that calls for a very flat floor, you might also consider troweling on "sand mix" to make a finished troweled surface after you fill the gaps, without getting too bent about self-levelling (and beware if the overall floor is not actually level when you let self-levelling cement loose...)
There's a case to be made for demolishing the whole mess and starting from scratch if what you see is "dirt" (quite likely given the workmanship and age) rather than a nice stone base, but if it isn't moving or otherwise causing issues, that might be a lot of work and expense for not much real improvement. So I don't consider it a strong case unless you have something particular in mind where that seems like it might be worth the bother.


How to move nut that is corroded onto tap?

You can purchase a variety of thread-loosening lubricants to dissolve rust, or you can lubricate with plumber's wax. In the end, however, it requires heavy wrenches with long handles and a certain amount of brute force to make headway when separating the most tightly-locked joints.
Spray lubricant on the outside of a corroded joint and give it time to seep into the joint and dissolve rust on the threads, which usually takes about five to 10 minutes.
Grip the fitting you are trying to separate with one pipe wrench; grip the pipe to which it is attached with another. Hold the pipe steady while you turn the fitting counterclockwise with respect to the pipe. Spray more lubricant and wait an additional five to 10 minutes if the fitting won't turn, then try again.
Tap the fitting with a hammer as an additional way to loosen the threads. Create more torque with the wrenches by lengthening the handles with 2-foot lengths of 1-inch metal pipe.
Lubricate the joint with a plumber's candle as an alternative to using spray lubricant, or as a supplemental measure. Heat the joint with a propane torch until it is hot enough to melt wax. Hold the tip of the candle against the joint and move it around the pipe while the wax wicks into the joint. Try turning the fitting when the wax cools. Repeat the procedure if the fitting still is locked.
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/loosen-corroded-plumbing-50441.html


Generator transfer switch manufacturer compatibility?

No, he is full of it. A transfer switch is just a switch. Kohler doesn't even make the switch they sell, neither does Generac. In fact the switch mechanism inside of them is the same (the electronics are different and they use different brands of circuit breakers).
The only issue is that the wiring diagrams likely show you specific connection references for their own respective brands. But anyone with half a brain can figure that out.


How do I connect the spare C wire to the old Lennox system (model # lennox g12q4-110)?

I have this exact same furnace (30+ years old) and very similar messy nest of wiring. As user76730 noted the yellow on the 24V side of the transformer is the key. In your photos, this is the left most wire nut that is pointing up with 2 yellow wires and a green attached. I had a spare blue thermostat wire from my old Honeywell mercury blob setup that was completely unused and just wrapped back in the wall. Hooking that up to the yellow bundle and then the C terminal on the thermostat is working like a charm. I have a Nest E with just the R and W, and it was power stealing badly. Now it runs very smoothly.


Should We Put our Washer and Dryer Outside?

When I was stationed in Panama our gov't quarters included the washer and dryer outside. The term eludes me now, but our quarters we're raised so that the driveway went under the domicile. The washer/dryer sat on a cement driveway under the quarters, exposed to the Panamanian elements.
Lint collection consisted of a plastic box that attached to your exhaust hose. The lint and exhaust went through the box and the lint was caught by wire mesh.
We actually bought the washer/dryer combo from the gov't after three years of our use. Contractors told us at the time the combo was at least ten years old. I paid $10 for both.
Then I sold them again three years later.
So, to your question, I'd say yes.
Good luck!


Either the junction box has power on it because of some loose hot wire or the ground itself has power on it because of a loose wire somewhere along the circuit.

Most likely though, since the ground doesn't blow the breaker on it's own, the junction box is powered somehow. In one way or another, power is feeding through that box. It could be from the sheathing of the BX or any stripped or loose hot wire touching any of the system. Go back and double check all connections, something isn't right. Be safe.


You are better off with a piece of cheese - also traps that capture are better than the slam and decapitate. I never had any luck with peanut butter - cheese works well.

1: Do you live in an Apartment or a Separate residence?

If Apartment , Town home or Condo the issue is that you could have an entry way from one unit to the other that you will need to close off - I had an apartment and behind the stove where the power cord was there was a hole in the wall .. I taped it up and no more mouse.

2: You will need to clean the home thoroughly looking for anything and everything that the mouse can get into for food - including open boxes of cereal in the pantry.

You can nickname the mouse and it might help with you being terrified - yes a bit light - hearted .


Can I just cover PVC pipes with elbows with soil underground?

Add loose soil then carefully compact next to and under the pipes. Repeat until you have compacted soil fully supporting the pipes from underneath. Then add soil in batches compacting each batch with your feet or with  a manual compactor plate on a shaft.
The purpose of this procedure is to avoid leaving uncompacted soil underneath and beside  the pipes. Uncompacted soil below or even on the same level as the pipes would compact over time and exert a bending moment on the pipes which could cause a break. Uncompacted soil above the pipes will eventually compact but will not stress the pipes.


If diverting the rainwater away from the house doe not stop this problem, potentially the problem is caused by the fluctuation of the groundwater, or there is a spring near that corner of the house, provides the basement wall wasn't adequately waterproofed. Unless you don't mind wasting your money by trying some fixes, the proper way is to involve a Civil Engineer to pinpoint the source of the problem and find a feasible, yet durable and economical solution.
As a homeowner myself, I might be tempted to grout the block wall solid, wait and see before resort to hiring an engineer. Also, you shall keep the basement well ventilated. Good luck.


I used to own and run a Blind business.  Living in Florida, a majority of our volume were shutters.  I would suggest getting a staple that is slightly longer than the one that came out  and then pushing the new one in.

I would protect the lever with a towel and then use a wide wrench, like a plumbers wrench, to squeeze the staple in.  Another option which would probably be easier would be to use the same size staple that fell out and use a two-part epoxy to set them in the holes.  You may have to get a small syringe to inject the mix into the tiny holes before inserting the staple.


How to tell if old ceiling light box can support ceiling fan?

The threaded rod you see in the middle is a stud. It is used to  attach mounting bars or hickey (a connecting device). Studs are attached to the box, not to framing members. It is no indicator of the strength of the box itself, or the attachment mechanism.

Fan boxes are characterized by their screw system that ensures a redundant attachment between the fan and the box. They also must be solidly mounted to framing members.

There are no heavy screws showing in the interior of the box, and the screw in the clamp holding the NM wiring going straight up suggests that there is not a framing member directly above the box.

It is both against code, and more importantly, dangerous to mount a fan in an unapproved box. The weight an dynamic load of a fan makes failure a high risk.

You need to replace the box with an approved box and ensure that the box is firmly attached to framing members. It may require some drywall surgery, but it is worth it.


What type of joint should I use while building a plywood box?

The simplest way to do this is with a simple miter joint. Miter all sides of your panels at 45°. You'll need a tablesaw to do this, or a very accurate circular saw with a straight cutting jig (i.e. a track saw). To visualize it, each panel will end up looking like a squashed flat top pyramid if you lay it down on its outer face.

It will be very difficult to get the miter perfect, especially if the boxes you're creating are rather large. Any gaps will be obvious since the layers of ply will be visible underneath the veneer. The corners will also be fairly sharp and fragile since you can't sand or rout them down without exposing the plies underneath. If the biggest dimension of the boxes is 11.25" or smaller, I'd just use a 1x12 instead of plywood.

Then use a square block or beam at each corner on the interior when you're gluing and clamping the corners.

Alternatively you could do this with a router and a router table to create a lock miter joint, and then the blocking inside the box would be unnecessary:

Image source


Do I need to dielectrically insulate smart home shuttoff valve on water main?

They are not prone to leaking.  But since you are cutting into the water main inside the house (which I assume is coming into the house) you can go from the main to PVC then to your stainless steel valve if you like.  What is the material of the plumbing in the rest of the house?  Is it already PVC or PEX?