What size breaker and wire do I need to feed a panel for a tankless water heater?

I'm not sure where you live but US code calls for a minimum of #8 if you're using copper or #6 if you're using aluminum. There would be no advantage in using a larger wire size in this case because at 30ft you will have negligible losses.

I don't know what your voltage is or how many phases you have but for an example of what your losses may be, I will assume a worst case scenario - 100V single phase. If you used the #6 aluminum wire, you would have a maximum of 1.72% voltage drop (loss). If you used the copper #8, you would have a maximum voltage drop of 1.66%. And just remember, when you are calculating losses (voltage drop), the higher the voltage, the better because higher voltages have less voltage drop.

Note: I use the Southwire Voltage Drop Calculator for most of my voltage drop calculations. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm


How to access hole behind kitchen cabinets?

Well, my kitchen has a similar corner and it has a cupboard with turning pull-out shelves which make use of the dead space that you have.
So consider taking the nearest cupboard out then dealing with the holes and putting better cupboards back in.


Pulling wire close to ceiling vs along wall at normal receptacle height

The way you are prescribing to run the wire will not be an issue at all, especially if the receptacles are higher than 48", it may even save you some wire??
You may already know this, do make sure you do not pull the wiring tight. When running through studs, turning into a stud bay, let the change in direction allow the wiring to "sweep" into the new direction.


The reliability of inverter air conditioners in humid climates with salty sea air

I'm in Michigan and we get harsh winters and salt our roads. Salty roads and ice get on our cars, and this combination is really harsh on our metal parts of our cars. Salty humidity is also very harsh on any metal parts, even galvanized steel. Now galvanized steel in the US has improved in the past 20 years, but it is not impervious to salt water.

That said, you will need to have all important parts coated some how to prevent corrosion as salty humidity is super corrosive. There is a service in the US that coats cell phones with a nano coating. They don't even take apart the cell phone. After the phone is processed you can drop it in a pool and it will still work. The phone is guaranteed for life vs moisture and water. Liquipel.

If  the AC company has this service available they can coat their PCB boards and that should help a lot. Or they can use another coating on the PCB boards. The coating cannot conduct electricity or it will short out the boards.


Status of solar-powered landscaping lights

I have fence-post-top solar lights purchased some more than five years ago and a couple more recently. What I've found is the older models use NiCad batteries and the newer, slightly more expensive ones use lithium based batteries.

The NiCad versions are useless and no longer illuminate, while the lithium versions are still alight the next morning. In the winter, with the shorter daylight hours, they won't last the entire night but continue to return each summer, thus far.

I've been considering popping the dead ones off and getting the new stuff, but it's easy to put things off.

Read the fine print, aim for the lithium powered stuff, and you may have better luck.


Does removing an LED bulbs from fixture decrease energy usage?

Yes, that will cut energy use in half, though the type of bulb (LED, CFL, incandescent, one that's not invented yet) does not matter.

Of course, you also get half the light.

A bulb which is removed does not use any electricity whether or not the fixture is switched on (James Thurber's Grandmother notwithstanding, for the literarily inclined.)


Sistered roof beams in garage pulling away from house

Your roof seems going through some movement, the reason, or the reasons, can't be pinpointed through a few pictures. You shall go back to the original consultant engineer, who I assume was overseeing and responsible for the jacking operation occurred a short while ago. The structure may not under immediate threat of collapsing, but it is prudent to find out why (including potential hidden problems), and make proper decision from there, on whether immediate repair is required, or not.
I would insist the engineer to have a visit, or issue a statement that there is no "big problem". I think he would respond differently then :) Send him the invitation in writing too.
If the engineer still refuses to visit, have a second opinion from another qualified engineer. I'll report the conduct to his licensing board, or local building official, if any problems is being identified.


How long to wait before cleaning new tuckpointed brick mortar with muriatic acid?

I would scrub with water only @10hrs - 48 hrs.

I wouldn't use muriatic/water until 3-4 weeks. Be sure to add acid to water, not water to acid.  An 8:1 (water-acid) mix is a good place to start.

Pre-wet the wall and any plants nearby. Rinse off then neutralize with ammonia or baking soda and water.

Old clothes, rubber gloves, eye protection.  If you use it any more concentrated, organic respirator.


anatomy of Kohler handheld showerhead - flow restrictor

I have a Kohler shower head.  Different model but the flow restrictor assembly is likely the same.  There's actually a series of parts behind the steel retention ring in your photo.  The yellow that you see is the top of a cartridge that contains a spring-loaded nylon stopper (white part in the photo) as well as an orange plastic flow restriction disc.  Remove the retention ring, remove the yellow cartridge.  In mine, there was also a purple part behind the yellow cartridge which is also removable.  Once you've taken all the bits out, you should be able to re-connect the hose and try the pressure again.

In my mixing valve, I also discovered two 'service valves' which control water flow into the mixing valve.  I found that in my case, the plumber who installed them had them turned to 1/2 and not full.  So my shower head and my rain shower both had very low flow.  I turned the service valves to full open which gave me the flow I expected from my rain shower head.  I then had to put all the flow restriction parts (yellow cartridge) back into my hand shower because the pressure was uncomfortably high.

Hope this helps!


Can I cut out a 12" section of a footing to run new plumbing in a basement?

You can do it, but you may want to check with your local building official for local requirements.
The normal way to do this is to core drill through the wall/footing and insert a protective sleeve two standard pipe-sizes bigger than the drain.  For a 3" bathroom drain that calls for a 6" nominal Sch40 pipe which has a 6-5/8" outer diameter.  That's a big job and you may want to rent a core drilling rig for it or hire somebody to come do it.
You could also use a rotary hammer; in fact, you may need one anyway if you have to chip around rebar to cut it out.
Why is your sewer line not low enough to go underneath your footing?  That seems unlucky.  If the sewer line isn't very long it might be easier to replace it.  Try to find out how deep your city connection is and whether re-laying it would be an alternative before cutting through your footing!


How to stop cold drafts caused by a warped door sill?

I can't tell from the picture but it seems likely that the floor beneath the middle of the sill is sagging or just lower than the ends of the sill for whatever reason.  If that is the case, and it were me, I'd pull up the existing sill and shim up the area that is too low.  Set a straight edge across the width of the door frame to see how much material needs to be added under the sill.  I would use roofing felt for that.  You can cut it with a utility knife, and it won't rot or compress very easily. Once you have filled in the low area so that no light shows beneath the straight edge, re-install the sill.  Another advantage of using roofing felt is that the screws you use to secure the sill will drive through the felt quite easily.

Here is a link to a website that discusses how to use shingles and felt to level an entire subfloor prior to flooring installation.  http://bit.ly/1Ii80Qi  The scope of that project is much larger that what you are dealing with, but the principles involved are exactly the same.


How can I reuse lumber from the basement walls of my 1938 home?

You could certainly double the plates if the size difference won't be a problem, or you can solve that in one of several ways if it is. Don't use studs that aren't full height otherwise. They won't be stable at the center joints.

If you're building new exterior walls, just flush everything to the inside. If not, you'll probably need to fur out at least the lowest and uppermost plates to flush on the other side as well. This will prevent cracked drywall, etc. Depending on the difference, 1/8" hardboard or 1/4" luan plywood could work well.

I wouldn't worry about cutting off nail penetrations unless there's obvious splintering or other damage. It won't affect the outcome of your project. You might find it appropriate to square up the ends and make the lengths uniform, though, especially if they were hand-cut.

Also be sure to crown them. This involves sighting down an edge from end to end and aligning all the bows the same direction (perpendicular to the wall). Discard any studs with bows greater than about 1/4", and use them for shorter lumber needs or where the bowing won't be a problem, such as in drywall backing.


How long should it take a professional to lay a patio?

I am a professional landscaper and I know that yes the majority of the work a brain dead monkey could do but when it comes to the skilled work it is a lot harder than you think!!! I can lay about 25 square metres of random lay rough cut slabs a day. Anything over 20 is a good speed. /Obviously it all depends on how accurate your base is and the quality of slabs.

On another note £80 a day (9 hour day) is about the going rate for a basic labourer!!


Splice it together in the safety switch

While Square D does not make a double-lug kit for their general-duty safety switches, what you can do is use a 14-4AWG, 3-port, insulated mechanical connector per-phase to splice the two incoming wires together with a short pigtail of 4AWG insulated copper that runs off to the lug on the switch for that phase.  That way, everything's tucked neatly inside the disconnect enclosure; this does have the downside that you can't independently disconnect individual inverters from the utility service, but for a purely grid-tied small-scale solar setup, this isn't a big deal.


What to use to flatten and prep wall before installing Schluter Kerdi membrane for tiling?

I don't think you'll need anything other than regular joint compound here. I would make sure you buy the widest trowel you can afford and simply work as much compound as possible to level the wall. Your kerdi board placed over the top (when used with the proper thinset) will block the water from reaching this layer.


Two 20-Amp circuits in one box for outlets

Well, you can run two totally separate circuits to the box, from two toally separate single-pole breakers. That way if one trips, the other does not. Nothing wrong with that.

You can also run a "Multi Wire Branch Circuit" (MWBC) from a two-pole breaker (a fault on either will shut both down) with a single neutral and two hots. The savings is not particularly large so you can go either way. If doing this, you need to pigtail the neutrals so that removing one outlet would not interrupt the neutral on the other outlet.

My personal preference with this sort of setup is to use different receptacle colors, though choice is limited without having the price get absurd (many colors are made, but some cost 10X what the "common" colors do) so some other sort of indication on the faceplate (such as actual labels) to indicate that they are different circuits (and hey, state what breaker number they are, too) is another approach.


Just patch the drywall, and make a new hole. If you haven't thrown the old piece way, you have the patch pre-cut.


Can I change a 1-gang electrical box to a 2-gang electrical box?

As long as you keep your current consumption under the rating for the circuit, that's completely OK.  Getting the old boxes out will be tricky, but can be done without too much damage to the surrounding drywall; if the old box is mounted to a stud, it may be easier for you to cut the nails than trying to pull them out.  You'll probably have to use a remodeling box anyway, so the old nails won't get in the way.

Depending on your local codes, you may or may not be allowed to do the work yourself -- check with your city (or whatever authority applies) to be sure.


water pressure from icemaker water line to fridge is reduced

If it is a small pipe the saddle may be partially obstructing the water flow. If you have copper, pex, or PVC plumbing it would not be hard to cut the pipe install a T and fit a 1/4" adapter or 3/8" depending on the size to your frige then you will not have a pressure reduction and in a few years (when the saddle would fail) you prevented the failure from happening.


What is the proper disconecting device for a heater + air handler not in sight of the panel?

The applicable NEC cite for a typical air handler of this nature is 424.19(A)(2) (424.19(A)(1) does not apply to most air handlers as the fan motor in them is over 1/8 HP):

  424.19 Disconnecting Means. Means shall be provided to
  simultaneously disconnect the heater, motor controller(s),
  and supplementary overcurrent protective device(s) of all
  fixed electric space-heating equipment from all ungrounded
  conductors. Where heating equipment is supplied by more
  than one source, feeder, or branch circuit, the disconnecting
  means shall be grouped and marked. The disconnecting
  means specified in 424.19(A) and (B) shall have an ampere
  rating not less than 125 percent of the total load of the
  motors and the heaters and shall be lockable in accordance
  with 110.25.

  (A) Heating Equipment with Supplementary Overcurrent Protection. The disconnecting means for fixed electric
  space-heating equipment with supplementary overcurrent
  protection shall be within sight from the supplementary
  overcurrent protective device(s), on the supply side of these
  devices, if fuses, and, in addition, shall comply with either
  424.19(A)(1) or (A)(2).

  (2) Heater Containing a Motor(s) Rated over 1/8 Horsepower. The above disconnecting means shall be permitted
  to serve as the required disconnecting means for both the
  motor controller(s) and heater under either of the following
  conditions:

  (1) Where the disconnecting means is in sight from the
  motor controller(s) and the heater and complies with
  Part IX of Article 430.

  (2) Where a motor(s) of more than 1/8 hp and the heater are
  provided with a single unit switch that complies with
  422.34(A), (B), (C), or (D), the disconnecting means
  shall be permitted to be out of sight from the motor
  controller.

Given that the motor controller in an air handler is going to be inside the air handler (it's the fan relay there), unless your air handler has a unit switch on the outside to serve as a disconnecting means, then you need a motor-rated disconnecting means in sight of the air handler.  A non-fusible molded case disconnect like the one you linked works; you can also use a breaker-based "spa panel" type disconnect like the ones used for air conditioners provided the current rating is suitable, or even a subpanel if you wish to run the serviceman's receptacle and whatnot off the same set of wires as the air handler.

Also, having a door on a cabinet or cutout box does not violate "readily accessible" under the 2017 NEC:

  Accessible, Readily (Readily Accessible). Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections
  without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite
  to actions such as to use tools (other than keys), to climb over or remove
  obstacles, or to resort to portable ladders, and so forth.

  Note: Use of keys is a common practice under controlled or supervised conditions.


Are metal horseshoe nails an acceptable method of securing electrical cables?

Metal staples have been around a long time, and haven't caused enough problems to be banned. So for as long as they're an "approved" method of securing cables, there is no problem using them.

Most of the inspectors in my area dislike them, since from time to time they're tacked down too tight by installers. If installed incorrectly they can indeed damage the cable, but in my experience this seems to be rare.


How can I protect my (engineered) hardwood floor from scratching?

I really doubt you can sand your floors.  Some engineered floors can be but this is a very small percent.  And this would be a diy because pros won't want to be responsible for the thin top layer sanding through.

One of the things I have found with engineered hardwood is the clear coat varies drastically from different types.  I have tested a lot and some scratch by pushing a penny across it and others I have had to stab full force with a screwdriver.  I am guessing yours scratches with a penny.

So the only cost effective thing that would definitely help would be to add a couple layers of poly.  You may need several layers.

http://www.clarkeus.com/clarkerental/~/media/029C45196DC6413FAC0CCF1922BD1BFA.ashx


Looks like fiberglass or rockwool(this is not asbestos). Safest to have it tested but you should seal off the space and not enter it until you know. I've two Aunts who died from indirect contact with asbestos.

Even if it is fiberglass you should be wearing a filter mask as it is essentially spun silica (glass) and the particles can cause silicosis (and skin irritation).


How can I level a sagging concrete floor in a condo building?

Don't try it; run the other way with your money in hand instead.  The building is seriously defective beyond your control as a prospective condo purchaser, as Fiasco Labs very correctly points out in his comment.  Besides, if they're rotten enough to "fix" a footing while leaving the superstructure unrepaired, what else will they have in store?


Peculiar external spigot replacement needed

There appears to be a repair kit for this:
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Troubleshooting/25%20-%2027%20Troubleshooting.pdf

The model in question is 20 but the 25 kit is supported by it. It can be replaced from the front.


Mold is unlikely from a one-time water infiltration event.  That is, unless the inside environment is exceptionally damp and prevents the water from drying out.

Generally mold happens when there is a long term issue with water or moisture.


How should I insulate the walls and ceilings of this 1920's semi-detached brick house?

Condensation is definitely a concern in colder weather.  If you create a thermal break that isn't properly sealed against air leakage, warm air from the house will seep behind the walls, bringing lots and lots of moisture with it.  Meanwhile the bricks, which are now insulated, are going to be very very cold, and when warm air gets cold it lets go of its moisture - and thus we get condensation.

That condensation would then get trapped inside the walls - and long before you have a problem with brick deterioration you're going to have mold issues that lead to health issues.

The best thing to do to prevent this is to insulate with a substance that also serves as a vapor barrier, which will prevent any air (and thus any moisture) from leaking into the closed cavity.  The best product for this IMO is spray foam insulation, because it fills in all the nooks and crannies and IS the vapor barrier.

Alternatively, you could use fiberglass and cover it over with plastic to form a vapor barrier, and this can work IF you properly seal it all the way around the edges, seams and any holes that occur.

Either approach, however, is going to require you to sacrifice living space, as for a proper thermal break you're going to probably want at least 4" of insulation.

Now - with regard to insulating your spare rooms.  Don't insulate your interior walls.  Put proper insulation in the external walls of those rooms, so that they don't lose heat to the outside.  Yes you will be heating them, but if they're properly insulated they're not going to cost much to heat and there are numerous other concerns with turning an inside room into a "cold" room - it's a finished space, after all, and you don't want to risk damaging that by letting it be freezing cold in there.


You absolutely need breakers for the 5-20 and 6-20 receptacles - can't connect those directly to a 40A breaker with any hint of safety. And all the outputs would benefit from GFCI protection, given that you plan outside use; clearly required on the 5-20s and highly advisable on the other outlets.
So, you need a subpanel, at least.
Given a 50A input connector, "your intended use with a 40A generator" is moot - someone could plug this thing into a 50A receptacle, so your provisioning, wire size and protection scheme needs to be based on that case. If (common, but can't be assumed, has to be checked) your 50A devices have connections rated for 75°C you can wire them with 8 Ga copper or 6Ga aluminum and suitable wirenuts or Polaris connectors, or split nuts insulated with tape if you want to go old-school (you probably don't.)
Your 20A stuff, on the far side of the 20A breakers feeding it, can be 12Ga copper.
Depending on your choice of subpanel, you might be able to simply attach a few 4x4 boxes to it to hold the inlet and receptacles. Otherwise you'll end up mounting them all (subpanel and boxes for receptacles/inlet) to a suitable substrate, such as a hunk of plywood, or a plywood box. Size the plywood box right and your inlet cord will fit into it.


GFCI outlets fail repeatedly in new home

Don't throw anything out & put in a Warranty Claim ASAP! Yes, the "Builders Grade" outlets are the lowest of the low, but you should get 10-years out of them. I'd get your wiring, service panel & circuit breakers all checked out, especially & specifically since the new outlets are failing too. That's not good at all.


Cordless lawn mower briefly starts then cuts out

I have had 5+ batteries brought to me that show full charge to no charge but do similar or slightly less.
In all of them they had been heavily discharged according to the owners.
All of them had melted a solder joint connecting to the battery pack. I was able to reflow the solder and save the packs in all of the cases.
2 of them showed no charge but it was the same as the others that showed full charge once properly connected they worked fine.
note these were all OEM battery packs and from 2 different manufacturers so it’s not an aftermarket issue. I would check the internal contacts first unless the mower has other troubleshooting guides like an unbalanced blade that shuts down for safety or an excessive current because of built up grass.


How to manage water pooling at a particular spot in my lawn?

Cut the down spout off about a foot and one half.  Then fix a 45° bend to the bottom of the downspout.  Now install a 3-4' section onto that elbow and extend it out onto the lawn.  The rain water should now dissipate into the lawn before it can find its way back to that low spot. When mowing, set the extension to the side.


Regular then low pressure from well water

Rule out the pump.

Attach a hose to the drain tap at the base of the pressure tank.  Run the end outside.  Open the tap.  If the water system behaves normally, (Pump runs constantly, or runs and shuts off in a cycle that gives reasonable flow) then your pump is doing what it is supposed to.

Check the line between pressure tank and cold line supply.

Since it affects nearly everything, it sounds like you have an almost closed tap between the pressure tank and where the hot water tank cold supply line branches off.  Most houses have a single tap you can use to turn off the water to the whole house somewhere from.

I say almost closed, because if it drips it will pressurize the line, including any air pockets.  I would expect that you would get between a cup and a quart each time you did this, and it would take minutes to recharge.


Do I need to switch off A/C external breaker for winter?

There is no need to switch off the external breaker serving the outside condensing unit. I have never done so in 40 years at our house. I have never heard of anyone doing so, and I have never heard it recommended. In our installation the external box adjacent to the condensing unit contains a double pole switch, not a breaker, but I only shut this off to service the unit. However, my experience is in the relatively warm winters of Dallas, Texas.


How do I begin to lay out floor tile in a small bathroom?

In the case of a very small bathroom I tend to lay the tile out on the doorway, where the pattern and position are most conspicuous. I usually center either a tile or a joint. In the case of 12" tiles this is even more impactful, as an off-center doorway catches the eye.

Then, lay out tiles in both directions and see how they interact with walls, plumbing fixtures, and cabinetry.

Almost any project should be undergone with this approach--ask yourself what will be seen and noticed most often, and make compromises where necessary to fulfill that goal. In this case, the number of cuts you have to make for a project intended to last many years is irrelevant.


Grinder guard question - can I use a mix sizes?

Some angle grinders, such as the DeWalt model that I have, come with three different sizes of guards. I have not measured them but I believe they support 4", 5" and 6" grinding wheels.
The down side I see using a bigger guard than the size of the wheel is that it will be like working with a wheel that is nearly worn out compared to the larger size. Depending upon the specific design of the grinder and its guard mount scheme it is possible that the larger size guard can limit the amount of freedom that you have in getting the grinding wheel up to the work piece.
Another thing to consider even though it is a little off topic for this question is the advantage of a larger diameter wheel. For a given rotational speed of the grinder (i.e. RPM) the larger wheel will have a much higher circumferential velocity of the cutting edge as it engages with the work piece. This can have a dramatic effect on how quickly the grinder can remove material.


How to connect toilet flush valve chain with provided v-shaped connector

(caveat: I've never met this version in person...)
That appears to be intended for the "between-beads" part of the chain to slide down into the smallest part of the tip. The beads should be larger than the opening in the smallest part of the tip. Depending on maufacturing tolerances, it may take some force to get the chain in there, or it may not. If loose, the chain should stay put by gravity, as both sides of the chain should hang down. If you have to force it in, then it should stay put until pulled out.
If the beads are smaller than the narrowest part of the slot, I might be wrong.


Can a tankless water heater outlet pressure be increased without a second heater?

sounds like you want more volume (gpm) of hot water ( thus,two tankless in parallel) because it takes energy (Btu) to make hot water. The heater will also limit its gpm output into the water pipe by the temperature you set.
Look up the volume to hot water temperature curves for your rated Btu tankless heater.  I think a big 200,000 Btu units can provide 6gpm of 115 F hot water and a smaller 60,000 Btu heater may only do 3gpm of 115 F hot water.
If the kitchen is asking for all 6gpm of hot 115 F water, then all the other valves located after the kitchen valve will have no hot water from the water line.
The 200 MBtu will make 7 gpm of warm water if the temperature is turned down (check the 90 F curve). Now, the kitchen gets 6gpm of 90 F water, and 1 gpm of 90 F water can go down the pipe for the next fixture.
System with multiple loops of heaters installed closer to the fixtures, will fire on independently with no pressure lost. Parallel heaters will use more Btu and water if the the last fixture and heaters are far apart.
These heater also have a minimal in coming water pressure to operate correctly, so a pump may help if placed before the heater.


I can’t stop a tail pipe leak after installing in bathroom sink

From the photo it looks like the tailpipe is misaligned with the hole in the sink (collar offset to the right so that it overhangs the sealing surface of the sink on the right and barely covers it on the left). This is quite a common issue and if the offset is bad enough, the gasket won't even have anything to seal against on the left side and instead the collar will just force that part of the gasket into the hole.
This issue can also be made much worse if the gasket is a bit too small for the collar and the hole. I'm used to the outer diameter of the gasket being at least about the same as the outer diameter of the collar.
Try realigning it to see if you can improve the situation. If the only way to get the collar and the hole aligned is to tilt the tailpipe, it's likely you'll get another leak due to the two sealing surfaces not being parallel (so that when the collar is tightened just enough for one side, the other side still has a big gaping hole). If that happens, just use a thick-ish gasket of the "spongy rubber" variety, which tends to compensate for these issues much better than solid rubber gaskets.
A good way to look for leaks is to tighten the collar just lightly (so that it doesn't fall off and the gasket is held in place), get a strong light source (a powerful flashlight or something) and shine it down the sink. If you see any light shining through anywhere near the gasket, that's where a leak will likely occur once you tighten properly.


Will the original ceiling box in my 1939 home support a new 45lb chandelier?

If the support is as you illustrated, the weight is being held by screws through the support and vertically into the ceiling joist. The load is being held up by screws pointed upward. The strain is downward. All that is holding up the weight is the wood around the threads of two (or maybe four) screws.

In general, wood screws do best when the load is shear (perpendicular to the direction of the screw). Pullout loads are especially vulnerable in older wood that may be deteriorating over time and getting powdery. 1939 is not so old comparatively, but this situation is not ideal.

You might want to consider a replacement box and support that wedges between two joists such as this one. On 16" centers, they are rated for up to 150 lbs and 50 lbs. on 24" centers. For fans, they are rated for less (70lbs. on 16") because of dynamic stresses.

These can be inserted in a 4" hole.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


What is the technical name of these water outlet cover plates?

They have always been known as escutcheons. That's as far as I know. If it was for a door knob it could also be called a rose or rosette


Can I cover insulation in my attic roof with plastic or plywood?

Yes.  Either wood or plastic would be a good idea.  You are only going to be able to get narrow sheets of plywood through those holes, but just nail them up.  If you use plastic, secure it with staples.


How to safely attach block-and-tackle to 2x8 ceiling joist(s) to handle 1000-lb load?

You want a LONG beam on TOP of the joists to spread the load over LOTS of joists, since your garage is probably not designed to have very much (if any) load on those (particularly if there is not a floor on top of them, which it sounds like.) I'd suggest 10 or 12 feet minimum so you pick up 5 or 6 joists to share the load. 16 feet would be better.

You can throw some hurricane ties at it to hold it in place. It wants to be "on edge" (if it's not square, the narrow sides should be top and bottom, since the depth of a beam is where its strength is.) If it's square, you don't really NEED to hold it in place, as it won't roll over, and gravity will hold it there just fine.

A section of chain around the beam is a good way to hold a block without depending on a bolt attachment. Lift-rated eye bolts are available, but they are fairly costly. Chain and chain accessories rated for 3000 or more pounds are easy to come by. But make sure every element is rated for (several times) the load you want to carry. Do NOT use "1000 lb rated" parts if you actually want to lift 1000 lbs - always add a safety factor.


Why won't my recessed lights illuminate when they have power?

Evidence would suggest there is a wiring error. Recheck the wiring and all the connections - something is not connected, or is connected incorrectly.

Since you claim to have tested that there is power to all the fixtures, one of two things is probably the case:

There is a high resistance connection which allows you to see voltage with a tester, but which causes the voltage to drop drastically as soon as a load is applied.
You have managed to get both hot and neutral hot, so voltage is present, but there's no voltage across the devices, as they are connected to hot on both sides.

As you might imagine, it's difficult to troubleshoot these things from afar. Doublecheck everything.


Would it be Code legal to have an all-240V house in the United States?

Such a fun question deserves an equally fun answer.
Sure you can!  And there's a neat trick that will help with all those troublesome NEC 2014/17 rules: simply make sure to build this house in a country where the NEC does not apply!
Most of the world uses 230V as their standard supply voltage, which is pretty close, but if that's not quite enough for you, there are 19 countries that use exactly 240V by default, and would make an ideal location to build a 240V-only house.

Brunei
Cook Islands
Cyprus
Falkland Islands
Fiji
Gibraltar
Isle of Man
Kenya
Kiribati
Kuwait
Libya
Nauru
Oman
Papua New Guinea
Qatar
St Lucia
Seychelles
Tonga
Uganda

(source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country)


Metric Screw Size Specification Question: M4x10K?

Sounds like Sebo?

The M4 diameter relates to the diameter of the thread not the head though. A M4 thread will typically have a 7mm wide head.

Googling "Sebo M 4 x 10K" seems to find a few references to that screw size.


Separate circuit, but why is the disposal causing lights to flicker?

If the light does flicker also if a hairdryer or vacuum cleaner
is connected to the same outlet/box as the garbage disposal, it is
likely a problem upstream the location where both circuits (light,
garbage disposal) are connected.
      A loose connection acts as voltage divider in combination with the garbage disposal or any other big load.  F.e. backstab
connections are known for problems.
If the light does not flicker if the garbage disposal is
replaced by a hair dryer or vacuum, it could mean that the garbage
disposal motor emits some energy, e.g. HF or inductive surges, that
disturb other electronic devices nearby. Maybe the motor capacitor
has gone bad or the graphite elements/sliding contacts are worn out.

In both cases the motor should have less power compared to an installation without any problem.


It appears to me that all of the vertical walls are load-bearing. If I assume the roof to the crawl space is a reinforced concrete slab, it's live and dead loads would likely bear parallel and perpendicular to the side walls.

You can move the opening. But because the existing construction of the crawl space roof is unknown and, like-wise, exactly how it bears on the walls, I suggest you create the new opening in a mirror image to the existing opening. In other words, from your picture, use the measurement from the left side of the opening to the wall to the left as your new right side opening measurement from the corner, but do add to that length the width of the the wall.

Lastly, yes it would be more difficult to do the work after adding the new AC compressor because it is best to fill the existing opening with load-bearing material, such as concrete block, and finish the exterior to best match the walls. Once that's finished you won't have a possible interference with the AC compressor.


Is it better to shim behind hinge leaves against the door or the frame?

This is entirely a matter of aesthetics. In one case the hinge pin (the center of pivot) moves, and in the other it doesn't, but the move is small enough that it's unlikely to cause binding. Just keep that point in mind.

Otherwise, do what will result in the shim being least conspicuous. This isn't the ideal way to rectify door alignment, but it is often the quickest and easiest. If you have the option and the will, pull casing from the hinge jamb and do your shimming there, where it's hidden.


Does my furnace and water heater need a shut off switch

NEC Articles 110.25, 422.31, 422.33, 422.34 and 430.102(A) provide requirements for disconnects used to protect those who might need to service equipment. Basically it requires the following.

It must be with in line of site and less than 50' from the equipment.
The disconnect means must be able to be lockable for hardwired or plug and cord.
Many AHJ have also require the access to the disconnect to be in an unencumbered path from the equipment.

Also as mentioned by Jim Stewart, it is there for safety's sake and it is rare these devices go bad.

Hope this helps.


How do I add more circuit breakers once the breaker box is full?

The only reason to replace the entire box is if aesthetics: if there isn't enough room on the wall for two boxes, or the box is in a closet or cabinet where there isn't physical space.

Putting in a new breaker box is much easier than replacing an entire box.  If you replace the entire box, you will need to rewire every breaker.  When the original box was wired there was lots of slack on each wire, but after each breaker was installed the wires would have been trimmed.  A good electrician will allow slack in the wires for reconfiguring breakers, etc. but if it's a small box you may not have enough wire, or you may end up running the wires in ways that aren't as neat or professional as it should be.

With a new box, on the other hand, you only need to remove one 220V or two adjacent 110V breakers.  The old wires can be run into a junction box to provide as much length as you need for wiring into the new box.

As Mike Sherov noted, you need to be sure that your service can handle the load and number of circuits.  That'll be a location specific code issue.  If the knob-and-tube wiring was recently replaced I'd be surprised if the old service (probably 50 or 60 amp) wasn't upgraded as part of that process (likely to 150 or 200 amps).

If your new circuits are within the capacity of your service and local regulations permit, this is a job you can do yourself.  If you choose to do it yourself, in some jurisdictions you can ask the inspector if your plan will keep you in code, to save the cost of a consultation with an electrician.  (In some places of course, they're too busy for such questions.)  Or you can research it yourself: it's not difficult if you have access to a code book.


Installing Spigot Upside Down and Close to Ground

Thought I'd share what I ended up doing. I tore out all the copper pipe "main line" and replaced with plastic pipe. I added a "T" and then installed an 18" frost free silcock basically at grade. I added heat-tape and insulation on the inside, now I'm just debating on if I need to cover the valve in the winter (perhaps with a simple box?). I don't usually do what I did above (post multiple questions), so I created a new thread with that simple question --> Frost Free Silcock - At Grade - Problem in Winter?. I'm also debating on not shutting off the water on the inside (I did install a Ball Valve with a drain right by the "T"), but worry about heat tape on an empty pipe. Thinking about it, I doubt that would be an issue as CPVC is rated like 200F, but the point of posting the question was to get feedback :).
In regards to the "awkard angle". I will be digging out a bit under the bib to allow for the hose attachment and having it at the "proper" angle.
Thanks for all the tips!


Does a copper pipe need to be perfectly smooth to install a compression valve?

I have done four things with this second-hand olive issue:

wrap with 4 or 5 layers of ptfe then tighten normally. Usually is fine.

use a sealer such as plumbers mate or equivalent and that has also worked.

replace the olive but as you have compressed the pipe so much you may have to cut the pipe back. To do that you may have to get more pipe and pulling it may not be sufficient so you will have to get behind.

use a solder joint to put a fresh bit of pipe and push it back into the cavity but does depend on the cavity...


What I can use to waterproof a sink cutout

Danish oil, tung oil, linseed oil will work if you apply multiple coats and re-apply on a regular basis. There are also special formulations with additives (waxes) that increase water and chemical resistance (but are usually less impact resistant).

Varnish will work as well, is more prone to mechanical damage, but does not have to be re-applied unless damaged or worn down.

Spar varnish (or outdoor varnish) is usually more resistant to UV and water, but will also usually emit more harmful fumes.

Solvent-based varnishes will in general be more durable and easier to apply than water-based varnishes. Water-based varnishes are generally healthier (less emissions and toxic fumes).

Most danish oils are food safe and will increase the hardness of the surface (offer better impact protection).


Rewire polarized power receptacle that is installed backwards

Sometimes, HIRE AN ELECTRICIAN is the right answer, especially considering you are wary of other electrical issues. Sounds like they had some handyman or hack wire up this addition. I wonder what else is wrong structurally?


Is is appropriate to negotiate price with contractor

Lots of good advice here already, but maybe I can step back and explain where that price came from.

Labor + materials + overhead + profit.

Labor is pretty obvious... some firms pay more; some pay less. Some provide health benefits; some don't. Built into the labor price is how long the job is expected to take: some firms will cut corners and reduce their labor cost and others will do everything pretty well and have higher labor costs. Some will exclude "unknown conditions" from the contract and issue you a change order that will cost you more; others will anticipate likely problems and have a little money built into the contract so that they don't have to annoy you with a flurry of change orders. (There are plenty of contractors out there that get their feet in the door with a low bid and then make a ton of extra money with change orders.)

Materials are something you'd see on comparative quotes if you got multiples. You'd see that one guy was offering 15# felt and the other was offering Grace Ice and Water Shield. That's not the whole story, though, as the price a big firm pays for shingles isn't necessarily the price that a little firm pays. And maybe the guy that's offering you a massive deal is just trying to burn through some leftovers from another job. So material choices and prices vary. You shouldn't concern yourself with what the materials cost; just be concerned with what materials are specified in your contract.

Overhead is what it costs a company to keep their doors open whether they're working or not. That's rent on the office, truck payments, certain insurances, cost of ownership of tools, licenses (if applicable), their advertising spend... the list goes on. A big company is apt to have more overhead than some dude with a truck and a couple of buddies. Be sure that the dude with a truck has liability and workman's comp, otherwise, you could be paying for his buddy that fell off the roof and crippled himself. (Top tip: ask for proof of insurance, then call the companies to verify. I know that sounds like you aren't trusting, but consider the alternative.)

Profit is what's left over at the end of the year, after the first 3 have been covered. Profit gets used to weather hard times or grow the business or buy a big stupid bro truck. You can decide for yourself whether a business deserves to make a profit, but I can assure you of two things: you want the business to be around in a few years if a warranty claim happens, and there's very little incentive for people to run businesses without profit as one of the motives. (And, I should note, some businessmen are greedy, so try to make an unreasonably high profit. Some guys do astonishingly good work in expensive markets where an unreasonably high profit is almost forced upon them so that they can keep up the veneer of exclusivity.)

So with all that in mind, how did you decide the price was too high? If you're not running that particular roofing business, you have no insight into anything other than material costs.

You might ask for a lower price and you might get a lower price, but most businesses aren't running strictly on charity, so I doubt you'd get as good a product as you would've at the original price.

If, hypothetically, roofer X was the only game in town and you needed to get the price down without compromising on quality of execution, then a productive route would be to ask what they can remove from the quote to cut the price. Cheaper materials? You haul all the tearoff? Shingle over existing? (Btw, that's usually a bad idea that gets you far less lifespan, but if you only need a roof for 5 years, it might work...)

Get a few more quotes. Try to compare apples to apples regarding materials. You might get a quote you like more.


Insulating a garage - from the outside or the inside?

I don't think you can do this.  Even 1" of spray foam will stop most of the heat going in or out of the garage by conduction through the walls.

What it won't stop is heat being transferred by cold or hot air coming in around the door.  In a well insulated house, it is vitally important to control draughts; highly insulated houses have heat-recovery units to bring fresh air into the house without losing the heat.  The problem is that garage doors are not designed to be draught proof - so you will have massive heat loss/gain around the door.


How to remove what I think is a screw head caught in a waste disposal

Had exactly the same problem this morning, thanks to the thread - it made the repair so much easier... the screw was jammed tight just like the original photo above. I went to homedepot got the tool but could not move the screw at first, what I did was reverse the disposal very slowly using the blades and my fingers, after every slight movement I would check to see if the screw had a position where it was loser, and yip after about 3 minutes I found that position- then use the tool and boom the screw was out... thanks again!


Are either of these tools suitable for tightening the pipe union nut underneath a bath?

Looking at the diagram, I believe you want a basin wrench. It's designed exactly for these bolts in these tight conditions. And the next time you go to replace a sink, you'll be glad to already own one. That said, I've never heard of, nor seen a jaw dropper plumbing wrench, so I was hoping that someone with more plumbing experience would chime in.


Help wiring an old HVAC blower to use as a shop fan

To me that looks like an ECM motor -- an "electronically commutated motor" or "brushless DC motor." This is a newer motor technology with a variety of benefits.. at the cost of being more complex. These motors can't run directly from a power source; they require a control system to operate. The good news is that yours appears to have that controller built into the motor.
Based on what I see in the wiring diagram I'd suggest keeping that PCB in the circuit too. It appears the PCB provides a convenient way of "programming" the controller's behavior -- things like how fast it should spin (implied the the choices of AC/HP size and AC/HP CFM adjust) and how soon it should come on and how long it should stay on (ON/OFF delay).
I've not had the pleasure (?) of working on one of these motors myself, but from what I can gather online (and considering there's no 230 V connection shown to your PCB), all those control signals are probably 24 V ac signals. It's possible you could have damaged the controller by connecting 120 V between pairs of black and white wires, but.. it's also possible the internal control was engineered to survive that kind of mistreatment. Though you probably could connect 24 V ac to some of the wires on plug 4 and get results, it seems much easier to keep and use the PCB.
Try feeding the motor and the transformer 230 V (or 240) on the black and yellow wires and put a jumper between the R and the G terminals. Be prepared to wait up to 30 seconds depending on how that ON/OFF delay setting works. If you get a response from the fan in these conditions you could experiment with the other programmable settings for CFM, delay, etc.


Hanging a garden hose holder and need information on framing under a window

Assuming 1) You're in the U.S., and 2) you're in a conventionally-built home, 16" on center. The layout should follow through from the rest of the wall.

You might invest in a basic stud finder. They're pretty good these days.


How can I prevent my refrigerator door from hitting the wall?

Whirlpool French door started  hitting the new Silestone countertop a few months after the remodel. Dont think the part failed—probably it is due to our 100 year old house tilting. I have just installed high gauss magnets in the upper door hinge and they work perfectly.


Using a 4-wire machine with a 3-wire receptacle?

Cordage is the wire used in cords.  In cordage, the numbering includes the ground wire (unlike in-wall building cables).  So 12/3 cordage is black white ground. If you are running 240V then it is incapable of supporting a neutral wire, since the white must be used for the second hot.  Feel free to mark the white wire with red tape.  When connecting it to a NEMA 6, hook it up straight.  When hooking it to NEMA 14, don't connect anything to the neutral lug.

If your equipment is using 12/3 in-wall building cable (e.g. Romex, NM, UF, etc.) then remove it and go to the local electrical supply and get proper cordage.  You can also buy cordage with the plug you want already premolded onto the end. Or obtain an extension cord whose cable has correct ratings for cordage, and lop off the bits you don't need.

As far as I know, it's legal to put a 30A plug on a 15A device, and on this forum we've visited that question a few times and nobody's come up with a code cite saying it's not allowed.  Just the same if building it from scratch, I would've gone NEMA 6-20 simply because the parts are significantly less expensive. Given where you are now, you could price it both ways and see:

6-30 plug vs
6-20 plug, 6-20 receptacle and 20A breaker.


If you can find these self tapping metal bits, they will do the trick.

They are a lot more robust then they look. I couldn't find the gauge of the post but worse case scenario you could mount a block to the post using two self trappers and go through the railing mount with a third self trapper.

simply google

from a google search

The list of nobility is quite complicated, it's not meant for the typical tradespersons to understand. A galvanic reaction is used to galvanize a material to prevent it from having a reaction as a result of a large gap in nobility. Materials are galvanized to reduce galvanic reaction. Now get off my back.

also from a google search


How to find where is the broken in the house electric wire?

My most valuable tool is thinking about what the last guy did.  Or was most likely to have done.  I see lots of "what were you thinking?" situations but later I learn something else, and go "Oh, that's what he was thinking."

OK the wire goes through the cement wall. Somebody had to install that wire the first time. Where would he have routed it?  What would've been easiest for him?

Do you have more than one outside light?  Is it possible this light is fed from one of the others?


Assuming you have a floor plan that you like, there are 4 main issues: 1) Building Codes, 2) Planning Department, 3) CC&R’s, 4) utilities.

1) The Building Code requires certain building requirements that may not be apparent with a small house, but is required in a larger building, (i.e.: shear walls, larger footings for brick or stone walls, setback requirements, etc.)

2) The Planning Department has requirements such as maximum lot coverage, setback requirements, etc.

3) CC&R’s, if any, have specific requirements such as minimum size house (mini-mansion sub-division), maximum height restrictions, etc. CC&R’s are included in your “paperwork “ when you purchased the property. I’d re-visit your documents and make sure you understand terms like, “sight lines”, “natural materials”, etc.

4) utilities are difficult to re-do half way through a project. If you are on a septic tank and drainfield, your soil may only allow a two bedroom house, etc.

Therefore, I’d recommend you provide plans and specifications for the “final” design, not for the initial construction phase. Btw, codes and planning issues change from time to time. So, getting the entire project approved now will negate any changes that come along in the future. (However, most Building Permits have a time limit. I’d verify with your local jurisdiction.)


Does primer normally separate in to different colors, or is this mold growing in it?

Primer-unbdercoat often has a higher pigment content than topcoat paint, this helps it cover marked surfaces better. usually the pigments are a combionation of carbon black and titanium oxide white.

When left to stand the different pigments will separate at different rates giving a mottled result like you show above.  just give it a really good stir. Not ten laps with a popsicle stick, a it'll take a really good stir to mix the settled pigment back into the resin.  I use a bent wire in an electric drill.


If the current flap is still intact on the outside and you can remove the grille on the inside, you could fill the void with expanding foam, which would stop the draft. Carve back the foam on the interior side recessed enough to cut a piece of stiff paper or metal the size of the interior of the setting of the grille, paint it black and reset the grille over it, unless you wanted to patch the area with drywall, which is what I would do.

If you do it this way, be certain the outside flap does not get forced open by the expanding foam. After the foam is set, use a high grade caulk to seal the flap to keep the weather from seeping in.

This is not the way I would fix the outside, although a good grade caulk will last years, but it may become a maintenance thing. It would be preferred to break out the flap, repair the sheathing, add tarpaper that gets that layer intact again, add wire mesh and repair the stucco in the way it was originally installed, that way it can be maintained with the rest of the house and not reliant on caulk.

This is a cutaway of what I figure is behind your stucco. I am also assuming the mail slot is in 2 parts, the exterior with the nail flange and the interior part that meets in the middle liner somewhere and one "sleeves" over the other so it can telescope to accommodate different wall thickness, still a guess.

This is what you should have after you demo the stucco... I forgot to color the wall to depict the tarpaper, the brown should be black to represent that. At least I caught it on the pic below....

The step where you lay back the wire mesh is important here. Both layers of wire mesh together one on top of the other should be not much thicker than 1/4".

When you add the first layer of cement, the scratch coat, it should be about a 1/2" thick, leaving a 1/4" for the finish coat, an less for the finish coat, it will not act right, if it is thicker, is better, but you must start with a good base coat first. When you successfully get the scratch coat in place and let it set, take the scratching tool, nail, sharp stick, whatever and with the tool almost perpendicular to the cement, draw the scratches in. If you do it too deep, it will release from the wire mesh and chunks will fall out, like the little squares or diamonds you are making by the scratches. If your original stucco is thicker than 3/4", great, you got a little grace going for you. If it is thinner, just make light scratches, light is better than none. Keep trhe scratch marks about 3/4" to 1" apart, if they are slightly farther apart, still not a problem, the idea is to get them there, but not too close.

Now the next step, the fun part, the part you will see for eternity, the final coat.

This can be done with the same material that was used for the scratch coat, after the scratch coat has set for a day or 2. The scratch coat when mixed to the right consistency is like peanut butter, the finish coat will be a little more "loose", more water to the ratio, so it is more like the consistency of toothpaste. You may want to mask off the area so the finish doesn't get everywhere. If it does, it is really not a problem either, when I am doing this type of work I always have a half filled 5 gallon bucket with water and a sponge handy to keep the area clean. Be careful with this, it CAN DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD, but when the sponge is wrung out nearly dry, it will clean up any soft or near set up cement with ease. Get the sponge to wet, you will have a sloppy mess or worse, cement getting over saturated and running off the wall.

At first look, you stucco is a coarse sand finish, in other words, the finish has a coarse sand added to it. not as coarse as aquarium sand, and not as fine as masonry sand, that is already in the mix, but perhaps for the small repair you have here, the sand that is already in the mix may suffice. There is a special sponge float that gives this type of sanded finish. I am going to let a video do some of the talking for me. Here is another with a recommended material.

Good luck


Is cooking oil suitable for curing a newly sanded wooden kitchen countertop or cutting board?

I think it is best to use mineral oil.  Food oils can go bad on wood.  I use mineral oil with beeswax and that seems to be a good choice.


Checking house wiring for high resistance connections

The distance and wire size would be needed to see if things are good. The formula is Voltage drop= 2K x L X I / Cm ... K for aluminum is 21.2 You will need to measure the lenth (L) and the current (I). You did not state the wire size so here are some values of circular mills (Cm). #14=4110, #12=6530, #10=10380, #8=16510, #6=26240, #4=41740, #3=5260. Doing the math after making the measurements you can see if the measured values are close to the calculated values. If your measured voltage drop exceeds the calculated values you may have some pigtails or connections that need to be cleaned and terminated with fresh anti oxide compound.
remember their can be calibration issues with the amp reading and voltage depending on the conditions. If all your measurements are within a few percentage points of the calculated value every thing is probably fine, If you find 1 that has a higher voltage drop than the average calculation that may be a place to investigate.


Removing excess HVAC ductwork for efficiency

If the duct is blocked off at the end so that no air flows through then it should have minimal effect on the system. Removing it should not be expected to make any efficiency improvement.
On the other hand, if that duct is just lost in the floor or ceiling somewhere and is discharging conditioned air into who-knows-where, then yes you might gain some efficiency by blocking/removing it so that the conditioned air goes into occupied rooms instead.
It's impossible to say how much efficiency might be improved. It depends on what fraction of the system's total air flow is blowing out through this duct and whether it escapes into the environment or stays reasonably well inside the house envelope.
All that said: it is nice to remove abandoned wiring, plumbing, duct work, etc when it's feasible to do so and there's confidence that it wouldn't be used again in the future.


What are the differences between an expansion tank and a pressure sensor?

I would guess from what's here that the expansion tank is on a well pump, and the suggested replacement is a constant pressure controller for the pump.

However, in most cases a constant pressure controller still requires an expansion tank (though it can be a smaller expansion tank, depending on the type of system.)

A standard well pump installation has the pump off, or pumping full-speed. The pressure tank is nearly empty at the pressure where the controller turns the pump on, and holds some gallons/liters of water when the pressure has risen far enough to turn the pump off. The pump cycles on and off repeatedly when water is used for a long time.

There are several approaches to constant pressure control. One of the simpler versions uses a pressure-regulating valve with a slight leak, and the aforementioned type of controller and tank. Starting from the "pump off" condition, this system will run water from the pressure tank until it reaches the turn on pressure for the pump, and then will rise to the pressure-regulator's set pressure (typically halfway in between on and off - so 50 for a system that's on at 40, off at 60)   where it will slow down water flow to just what is being used, and maintain that pressure. Counterintuitively (but factually), the well pump actually draws less power and runs perfectly happily "partly shut-off" by the valve. If water use is VERY slight or turned off completely, the slight leak allows the pump to slowly pressurize the tank until the pump shuts off. If water is used for a long time, the pump runs as long as water is being used, until the use rate is very, very low or stops.

More complex (and usually expensive) systems use sensors and a variable frequency drive to actually change the speed of the pump to match water use and maintain constant pressure. Even those still use an expansion tank, though.

If your Italian tank bladder/tube also fails, it's probably time to suspect the poor construction quality of your Chinese tank (possibly damaging the bladders/tubes) and replace it with something better.


calculating screwpiles requirement in clay ground

Pay a local engineering firm, that will be familiar with the local requirements, typical bearing capacity of those soils, etc.
The fact that you are on old seafloor (but not underwater) is a testament to the overall quality of engineering in the Netherlands ;-)


Refrigerator trips new AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers

Kitchen counter receptacles need to be GFCI protected.  Refrigerators do not, and should not.

A refrigerator is simply not what GFCIs are for, like manassehkatz says.  All the electrical bits are in the bottom back, and you're not likely to knock a refrigerator into the sink!

The fridge circuit definitely does not require GFCI, however if the fridge is on a shared circuit with other outlets which need GFCI, then that does not give you a right to remove GFCI from those outlets!  Your inspector is teling you the fridge needs GFCI because it's on a shared circuit with countertop receptacles, and those need GFCI.  The fridge does not unless there is a local amendment to code, but it would be an awful amendment!

So the fridge should be removed from the GFCI, either by

running a dedicated circuit with one plug, 15A is allowable; or by
changing the breaker to non-GFCI and using GFCI deadfronts or receptacles in appropriate place(s) to protect the kitchen countertops, as Code requires.

The inspector has no "right" in the electrical code to compel you to use GFCI breakers particularly, though they do provide better protection.

The fridge circuit may require AFCI, but that's a different thing than GFCI and the refrigerator is less likely to have a problem with it.

The ideal setup

The ideal setup is a dedicated circuit for just the fridge, with a one-eye receptacle (not the usual twin) behind the fridge where nothing else can reach it, a breaker that exactly matches the receptacle amps (a requirement on 1-socket circuits), and a labelmaker sticker on the receptacle saying "Refrigerator only".

Even more ideal, I would also run it in EMT conduit and metal boxes, and make the case to the AHJ that the AFCI protection is not needed due to the EMT.

The nuclear option

If it is infeasible to remove the refrigerator from GFCI protection, you can remove the GFCI protection from the refrigerator! Use a Kill-a-Watt to measure how many VA the fridge uses when running (not starting), double it, and obtain an isolation transformer of that many VA.

All the GFCI will see is the primary winding of the transformer. What happens past the secondary winding, stays in Vegas. Ground is passed straight through the isolation transformer, so the fridge is still safely grounded.  If the fridge has a hot-ground fault, that will do nothing at all.

Since the isolation transformer is a plug-in consumer appliance like a power strip, it is out of the inspector's jurisdiction. He can't say a thing about it.

Alternately you could use a component isolation transformer and build it into the refrigerator.  Altering an appliance is not an Electrical Code matter, so again, outside his jurisdiction.


What DIY should I do on the ceiling to prevent noise from neighbor upstairs?

Really really difficult. I had a house that I tried to insulate the noise from upstairs. I put on the upstairs floor two layers of 1/2 inch drywall covered with 3/4 inch ply (with no fasteners) and then carpet on top. It made perhaps 25 percent difference.
If you were to hang extra layers of drywall on the ceiling, you would have to fasten it with screws and the trouble is if you drive any fasteners through your sound deadening material the sound just transmits through that "hard" point. Also if you have a recessed light or any light fixture creating a hole through your sound protection the sound projects through the hole and negates a large percentage of your protection.
Bottom line, if you can't live with it....move.


Put the crimps sleeves in place with the screw eyes apart the distance of the poles minus 1 inch (1/2" for each side) and fasten it all together. Set one eyebolt into the post all the way in except the 1/2". Important, count the full turns it took top get the eyebolt in that far. With the other eyebolt in place on the cable, twist the eyebolt counterclockwise the amount of turns it took to get the other eyebolt in, then add a few more turns if possible. This will insure the cable has the best chance to be tight when you are done. (This is what the 1/2" extra on each end and the extra reverse turns are about) It may take a bit of effort or extra help to control the reversed cable, but start it in the pre-drilled hole and turn the screw in. That should get you tight, at least as much as 2 wood posts will allow.

I did this with concrete threaded inserts on both sides of a concrete wall and 1/8" stainless steel cable between them, and they got bowstring tight. I installed about 14 of them in a room for hanging things from.


It has not been winterized properly. Enersol FAQs have some great tips regarding "removable end-caps on the roof" that need to be opened.

EnerSol FAQs


Do I need to install drainage medium for my sump pump to work well in an old basement?

Sump pumps can't do their job effectively without a suitable route for water to reach the pail. You don't have that. You may not need to remove the entire slab, though. It's possible that evacuation routes around the perimeter would do the job. It's hard to say with the small window into the problem we have.

Note that it's not "gravel" that you'd install--it's washed rock and possibly drain tile (perforated, corrugated plastic pipe), which may have a fabric sleeve over it. If you're going to all the effort and expense, be sure you have a solid plan.


Can you run a 240v US split phase welder on 230v UK single phase

This is a factory question. The ruling question is whether the machine guts are insulated for 240V.  Because one leg will be 240V from ground.

Is it really worth the shipping expense, though? It takes several times an object's weight in jet fuel to fly it intercontinental. Shipping of course is much better.


How to fill hole in slab after installing new closet flange

This is what I ended up doing after some research and opinion asking:

Chisel all the loose concrete edges so there is an undercut. This prevents the patch in the slab from rising. Backfill with sand. As you put the sand in moisten it and tamp it down. Make sure the piping is well supported and that the closet flange is level. Keep adding sand until it matches just below the bottom of the existing slab. Mix concrete and pour into the hole, backing it under the undercut and ensuring no voids exist. Keep filling until it is slightly higher than the hole and then screed it off.

So far it looks okay although I think my concrete could have been a little wetter.


Can anyone explain what this pipe is in the basement?

Without the sink and pump, usually the washing machine discharge hose would be inserted in the top of that open pipe.  It is above the level of the exit pipe, and has a trap to prevent outgassing.

I would think the pump would have a similar connection (e.g. connection above drain with trap), if there were other users of that drain line.  But I guess not in this situation.  Perhaps that was added later.


Pull your switch out, look at it to see who the manufacturer is, and contact them or check their website.  Usually when a manufacturer makes an oddball like this, they also make the cover plates to match.


I agree with Trevor on this statement of his - which was my thought before I read his answer.

"The ultimate solution would have been to bring it all forward so the door was registered to the wall with the light switch, and pad the post on the left to bring the corner out to match. "

After that then I would have simply used dry wall on the interior side of the bathroom to make it look like it was simply a reason for that floor plan - like maybe a pipe was there or the wall had a load bearing beam back there anything to keep it from standing out as an OOPS.

Then it would be just as Trevor said the visual side that will be noticed looks like it should look, and the side that would need tidying up would be hidden for the most part.


How to shut off water coming from the hot water heater

Normaly there is a valve on the supply line to the water heater, turn this valve off and it would be best to turn the water heater breaker off.


If I were you, I'd install some backer board or gypsum board first. The backer board can directly attach to the wall and provide better adhesion for your tile. They're available in 1/4" thick so it shouldn't add too much to the wall.


old gfci outlet manufactured with wires coming out of the back of it

Got it replaced.  Was an old General Electric model, I think the part number is E-42190.  All connections used wire nuts,  The wires in the center of the back were  line.  Two wires on the side were load and ground.  I just needed better lighting and my microscope glasses to see it.  Very small print.  New Levitron model was very clearly marked.
Thanks to all who answered.


Caulking Vertical Seams in Three Piece Shower/Bathtub

This can be a subjective question. Here's how I'd approach it.

Read the installation manual. It's often spelled out clearly which seams should be caulked and which should (or must) remain uncaulked. Sometimes caulking the wrong place results in leaks or overflow.
Consider the problem of trapped moisture and mold/mildew. If caulking a seam would result in puddling or extended moisture accumulation, and doens't resolve a drainage problem, it may be worth avoiding.
Does the caulk joint improve or degrade the aesthetics of the unit? Well-done caulk joints virtually disappear into the structure. Poor ones look amateurish and messy. Can the joint be done well in a given location?

If you decide to caulk a joint, I recommend 100% silicone. Latex-based caulks collect surface soil, shrink considerably, and may not bond as well to non-porous surfaces. Be sure the surface is very clean beforehand.


No. Timers on exhaust fans are not required in a laundry area in Washington State, nor any other state, that I'm aware of.
If your z-wave switch is UL listed for fan control, then it's permissible.
This code excerpt makes no mention of specific rooms.

Local exhaust ventilation systems. Local exhaust ventilation systems shall be controlled by manual switches, dehumidistats, timers, or other approved means.

(LOCAL EXHAUST. An exhaust system that uses one or more fans to exhaust air from a specific room or rooms within a dwelling.)
–Chapter 51-52 WAC. STATE BUILDING CODE ADOPTION AND AMENDMENT OF THE 2015 EDITION OF THE INTERNATIONAL MECHANICAL CODE, wa.gov


It's easier to teach a violin player to play the bongo drums, than the other way 'round.

You need to take those lights back and get universal-voltage lights that work on any/every voltage between 100 and 277.  (100 is Japan, also 110-10%, 277 is pole-neutral on 480 wye).  In this day and age there is no excuse for someone not selling universal voltage lights, it literally adds 2 cents to the cost of manufacture.

Here's why converting the ceiling to 120V won't work. Several reasons.

First, metal halide is already very efficient, and LEDs are less or not appreciably more efficient. LEDs are better aimed, but only if they are actually aimed (corn cob LEDs are not).  That means you need to deliver potentially the same amount of total power.  When you cut voltage in half, you must double current.  It's easy to insulate wires for higher voltage, they're all already insulated for 600V, but to increase current you must install wires twice as thick!

Realistically that means breaking it into several circuits, as you still have 20/30A caps on lighting circuits. This is becoming quite an undertaking.  Now one option is to add a neutral wire and rewire the ceiling as "multi-wire branch circuits".  However this is complex and easy to botch.

Wire colors must be correct.  If they are cabled in Romex, chances are the white wire has been used for a hot, and it can be easily re-tasked to be a neutral.  That is easy enough.   However if this is in conduit, the two 240V wires are both hots, so they will both be colored wires.   In conduit, you must use natively white wires for neutral! That means pulling additional wires.

Lastly and mostly, you mentioned that your power is 3-phase.  There are several arrangements of 240V 3-phase.  You are thinking any random phase wire will be 120V from neutral.  That is not true, in fact, it's impossible. In regular wye, it'll be 139V from neutral.  In wild-leg, it'll be either 120 or 208 from neutral, and they are supposed to use orange for the 208V wire, but you can't count on that, especially in circuits where they never expected to even use neutral.

Anyway, the various dialects of 3-phase are wizards-only territory.   You've been fairly candid about your skill level.  I agree that changing lamps is well within your range.  However the engineering needed to deal with the above is considerable, and it would be quite complex for us to walk you through it all, and even then, we could miss something important.

Bongo drum rule: Take the lights back.


Since you don't give many specifics I'm going to make a few assumptions: You are in the US and single means one device with two plug-ins and double means two devices with a total of four plug-ins. I'm also assuming that the two wires in the box you are sourcing your power from are black and white with a third bare copper ground. First - make sure to shut down all power at the breaker box. You can then either connect to the unused screws on the powered receptacle attaching black to the same side of the receptacle as the black (hot) and white (neutral) to the other side or you can pigtail the blacks together, the whites together and the bare copper grounds together. If you pigtail you will then have three wires in each pigtail. One for the line coming in, one going to the single outlet and one going to the new double outlet. At the new double outlet you will need to again pigtail black to black, white to white, ground to ground with three wires on each pigtail - one for the line coming in and one for each outlet. Run the two blacks (hot) to the hot side of each outlet - it will be marked. The two whites (neutral) to the other side and the grounds to the ground screws.
Now the most important part. It's nice to add on outlets for convenience but you don't want to overload the circuit. You seem to have a number of outlets here that are running on what appears to be one circuit. It's critical to know what size circuit you are working with (15 or 20 amp) and what is on that circuit. This means not only outlets and lights but more importantly what is plugged into those outlets. You have to consider watts. A 15 amp circuit delivering 120 volts is only rated to handle about 1440 watts (15 x 120 x .8) 20 amp is about 1920. For example a hair dryer pulls between 1300 and 1500 watts. Appliances will indicate how many watts they draw or you can find out online. If you overload the circuit you'll be constantly tripping the breaker and posing a safety risk.
Good luck but be careful and think it through.


What's the best way to separate house light from garage lights?

I actually managed to figure it out on my own. Referring to my picture, I moved the red wire to its own switch and added another white wire and attached it as well. Problem solved. Only downside was trying to pigtail 4 wires into one.


Does anyone make a gfci switch/outlet combo that includes a nightlight?

I have not seen a device with all three items at once. (Gfi/switch/night light)  Pass & Seymore does make great sw/lite or lighted gfi recpts.  Is there any possibility you can expand the single gang box to a two gang box?  If you expand it you could use one lighted device and a normal devise, problem solved.


Installing an insignia connect smart switch to three black wires and a bundle of three white wires

The group of 3 white wires is your neutral bundle.  Add the white wire from the new switch to it.

The group of two blacks is probably hot and a feed thru, connect both with the black from the switch.

Connect the remaining black (likely your load) to the blue wire.

Ground to ground.  And I bet you have it in the back of the box. (The house looks new enough)


Refinishing floors - wood has blotches where filler was used - need advice on how to fix

You'll need to start over, sanding out the splotches of glue.  To deal with the divots of glue, they can be 'set' using a nail-set in the same manner that you'd set a nail ... or the divots of glue can be dug/scraped out ... or simply left as-is.

You'll likely have similar splotches with store bought wood filler, and blotches can arise from other contaminants as well.  One option is to re-sand, removing the existing splotches of glue, then apply a coat or two of the poly.  This will seal the wood, then set/refill the divots if/as desired. As an alternative treatment, the divots can be blended in with a faux-finish by using a small artist's brush and a few tubes of artist's paints.  Then apply your final coat(s).

Sorry for the bad news.  Glues and fillers are a bane to fine woodworking.  Take a week or two for a breather and regain your motivation to do a good job.


I had this issue with my electric GE dryer. The plate on the inside had trapped lint that was turning brown and causing the burning smell which smelled like sulfur or burning rubber depending who you talked to. It required unscrewing 3 torx bolts and removing the back plate on the inside of the dryer. I then cleaned out the lint with a vacuum and some wet wipes. I laid the dryer on it's back and put the 3 screws in and voila! Done. 5 minutes of work no more burning smell. Other manufacturers require taking apart the back to access the lint behind the plate. I hope that this helps someone.


How to connect plumbing to a trap adapter which is already installed?

The fitting you show inthe picture is probably a "desanco" fitting. A tail piece or J bend is slipped into the fitting and a gasket and jam nut seal the joint. This J bend is usually part of a P trap assembly. If in doubt, go to a big box store, show them a picture and they can show you what you need.


How does this 1 wire to 2 fixtures & 2 switches work? Is it safe?

It looks like they spliced in a switch loop in the middle of the run. The bottom bunble will end up in a switch that controls the light in one of the rooms.

However the colors are not correctly matched. and the ground to the switch is missing.

The proper way to wire it is first of all in a junction box.

Then the whites (neutrals) should be pigtailed together. So should the grounds.

Then the black should be connected to the power source and red to the light being switched.

At the switch itself you cap of the white, connect the ground to the ground screw and connect the black and red to be switched.


Painting the old utility stairs to the basement

In my opinion, that's the wrong approach. Cement and mortar don't do well in places that move, and stairs tend to move.

I've restored several sets of old basement stairs in my homes, and new lumber is your best bet. I've gone with stained pine, which is beautiful but a bit soft. If you're going to paint, consider bullnose particle board.

By rebuilding with 1x8 pine and your choice of tread you eliminate those gaps, remove any squeaks (by using construction adhesive on all joints), and leave a very nice base for some good floor paint or stain and urethane.


I'm going to guess you meant to write 1000 gallons and 100 lbs, not 100 gallons and 100 lbs.
The "standard twin-tank approach" used for 200lb and smaller tanks where two tanks are used has a special valve that uses gas from one tank until it runs out, then switches to the other tank and raises a (usually red) signal that the "first tank" is empty. When the empty tank is replaced, a lever on the valve is switched to make the tank that was second, first, the signal retracts, and the new tank becomes the reserve until the next tank switch.
For 250 gallons and up (typically 250, 500, and 1000 - after 1000, multiple tanks again) A tank gauge is used and when the level is at or below 30% you call for a "non-emergency" refill if your supplier does not already have you on a regular delivery schedule that keeps the level from getting that low. If you happen to notice that it's down below 10% you call for an "emergency" refill because it's cheaper to pay extra for that than to have the lines purged when they get to refilling you after you run the tank all the way out, and also because "you can't run out."
Unless your use is highly variable (in which case you should check frequently to know where the tank level is) or your tank is woefully undersized (in which case you should get a second full size tank, or a larger tank) it's absurdly rare to "run out" on either a scheduled refill or a "call at 30%" plan.
So, what sort of reserve could you get if you could get a 100LB tank as a backup? 42 gallons, more or less. i.e. less than 5% of the 1000 gallon tank you likely meant, because "100 gallons" is not a typical tank size for propane delivery.


Connecting 2 light fixtures with 1 switch between

To move forward, you should really take some time and do some learning about "switch loops".  Do not be experimenting blindly, understand the wiring!

You will not be doing this without either replacing one cable with /3, feeding the second lamp from the first lamp's position, or using smart switches and controllers.

You cannot fake a 12/3 by pulling a single individual wire.  All related wires must travel in the same cable.

Your best bet is probably to convert all wires so they are always-hot and neutral, and then use a smart switch, which talks to two smart controllers associated with the lamp.   There are also smart LED "bulbs" like the Philips HUE which provide a similar functionality; their purpose is to control colors, but they'll also work just fine for on/off.


Replacing chandelier, how many lights can it support?

It's not the total number of bulbs you need to worry about but the total load caused by all the bulbs in the chandelier.

If you have 2 60W bulbs (for example) and a 240V power supply, then the current will be:

(2 * 60W) / 240V = 120W / 240V = 0.5A

So you could use a 5 bulb chandelier and fit 24W bulbs (assuming they exist) and draw the same current. To find the maximum size bulb you can use, you need to know the current of the circuit. Light circuits (in the UK) are typically 10A, so you could theoretically fit a single 2400W bulb or 5 * 480W bulbs if this were the only light fitting in the circuit.

However, a) these would be incredibly bright and b) there are other lights on the circuit you need to take into account.

A 5 bulb chandelier shouldn't be a problem as long as you fit smaller power bulbs.


Any reason *not* to put electric oven on GFCI breaker?

Can't put a 15/20A recep on a 40A breaker
Any device in there would have, effectively, no circuit breaker protection at all.  Because the 40A breaker would be so far above likely practical short-out currents that it would not notice if the appliance burst into flame.  Rulewise:

210.21(b)(3) says on a 40A circuit, only 40A or 50A receps can be used.  (because NEMA never defined a standard for a 40A recep). It also says 15A receps can only be used on 15A and 20A circuits.

Next, 210.21(B)(2) says the recep loads can't exceed 80% of circuit ampacity.

Another rule says you can't have any receptacles at all on a circuit with hardwired loads making up more than 50% of breaker capacity.

Wait. Isn't the GFCI a circuit breaker too?
Nope. Actually the very opposite: 15A GFCIs are designed by the factory to safely allow 20 amps of passthrough - that's a UL requirement because 15A receps are allowed on 20A circuits.  So in reality, the GFCI has no idea what current is coming through it (only current difference) and will carry an overload right up until the point it bursts into flame.  GFCIs (and breakers for that matter) are not magic everything-fixers.
Your best bet is probably run a new kitchen circuit
One option is a multi-wire branch circuit. (MWBC).   That is a cable with 2 hots and a shared neutral.  I see at least 2 red wires in that panel, so it's possible you already have a kitchen MWBC, that would be neat because you could just convert it. But troublingly, it does not have handle-tied breakers.  On a GE panel, even that is not enough; any MWBC must use a 2-pole breaker!  (part of the reason for handle-ties is that forces the breakers onto opposite poles, an essential MWBC requirement; but that doesn't work in GE's half-width breaker design.  Only a 2-pole breaker is keyed/notched to only fit where it belongs.)
With the MWBC, you can put both 120V and 240V sockets on it.  One company even makes a combo 120/240V socket - one of each on a common-shaped duplex receptacle!
So if there isn't a kitchen MWBC, you could run one.  That will give you both additional 120V outlets and also 240V outlet(s).  This MWBC could replace your existing kitchen circuits if they are 20A breakered.
As far as GFCI, I don't see a sink nearby.  Unless the latest Code requires it, you may be able to dodge the GFCI requirement.  If you must go GFCI, it must be at the breaker. Definitely do the MWBC and definitely go 20A with multiple recep sockets, since you're sinking a lot of coin into that, so might as well get maximum bang for the buck.
That panel has serious issues
Somehow the panel's dead-front has disappeared.  I don't understand how that's possible, but what should not be possible is for curious fingers to touch any of the panel guts... or for that matter, for an arcing fire inside the panel to get out of the panel through gaping holes in the front cover.
I would talk to a GE dealer about getting the correct dead-front for that panel.  If that is not feasible, that panel is *grossly under-sized) for a house, so maybe it's time to replace it with a 40-space panel.


Two things unbelievable about my answer.

It's not about electrical
I took pictures of my toilet

I think I have the same seat, so here we go...

Excuse the glare, but this is what holds my seat down.

Now take the top half of the clips and twist them counter-clockwise.  The picture shows them all the way turned.  Now the hard part...

You might have to work at this but you give it some wiggles and it pulls straight up.

Hopefully this is what you have and hopefully the artistic work I did does not go in vain.  Taking pictures of toilets or loo's or any device of this nature just does not do anything for me.  I hope they don't pull my man card, then I have to get my you know whats out of my wife's purse.


Now I realize I used too many GFCI outlets. How can I reclaim them?

There's more than one type of GFCI
Aside from the ubiquitous GFCI receptacle, there are also

GFCI circuit breakers
GFCI standalone devices (called "deadfronts" as they look like a GFCI recep with no holes)
GFCI switches (the GFCI is the switch; it's a deadfront rated for daily switching)
GFCI switch-receptacle combos (a plain switch and a 1-socket GFCI receptacle)
etc.

All of them have "LOAD" terminals. Any load attached to them is in a protected zone that protects the entire downstream circuit (as well as any sockets on the GFCI itself).
GFCI Roundup
Here's how to get rid of that redundant "Yo Dawg" daisy-chaining and get those GFCIs back.

Reset (turn back on) every GFCI device in the house (switch, recep, breaker, deadfront, any of them).
Put some sort of appliance on every GFCI receptacle; that will show you if it's powered.
Push "Test" on any GFCI device.
Did any other GFCI receptacles now lose power? If so, they are in the protected zone of the GFCI you just tripped. They are redundant.  Replace them with plain receptacles and a "GFCI Protected" sticker.
Repeat all this for each GFCI device.

A lot of people install unnecessary GFCIs because the last guy failed to install the sticker.  First, they didn't know the outlet was GFCI protected. Second, the sticker actually is mandatory, and that's why the inspector wrote it up.  (if you don't want a blue sticker, mark it any way you please; I use white outlet covers and white tape from a P-Touch label maker, and I state the location of the 'reset' also).
Sometimes you need to have multiple GFCIs on the same circuit because you can't protect the downline, e.g. if the last receptacle on the circuit is a refrigerator, radon pump, furnace in the snow belt, or other safety system where a nuisance trip would cause serious problems.  In that case, attach all wires to LINE.
In fact, you should never use LOAD at all, unless you actually intend to protect the downstream circuit.  Most GFCIs have screw-and-clamp which will allow 2 wires on LINE.
Installation gotchas
If one is giving you problems, stop.  Break it into two sub-problems.
Hook up one cable to only the LINE side of the GFCI, turn the breaker back on (I assume you turn off breakers when changing wires) and test it.  If the GFCI powers up, tests properly, successfully powers loads etc., then you have the LINE wiring right. Lock it down. and don't disturb it again.
Power off the breaker again and attach LOAD.  If doing so breaks it, there is a problem on the LOAD side wiring.  Most likely a multi-wire branch circuit, crossed neutral, or imbalanced (hot or neutral in the GFCI protected zone, but not the other). The latter is especially a problem in bathrooms with a plain switch next to a GFCI.  Work the problem as best you can; you might have to inspect the next downline circuit.   Crossed neutrals or imbalance are genuine defects that endanger your house.  Multi-wire branch circuits are safe and legal if done correctly, but are a special snowflake that doesn't play nice with GFCI receptacles.
If you are forced to give up, then attach all wires to LINE and fit another GFCI at the next receptacle.  Unfortunately this is one case where you might wind up with a GFCI at every outlet on the circuit; that's par for the course for MWBCs.
Why do you need the sticker?
Think about it. Why did you (or the last person) overinstall the GFCIs in the first place?  Because the person who installed the upline GFCI (the one you are keeping) didn't use the stickers. (no one does). Your inspector quite correctly red-tagged the outlet. If the stickers had been used properly in the first place, none of this would have happened.


Perhaps the simplest option is to use a headphone extension cord.  You can secure one end to the desk using a couple of cable ties that form an X over the top of the extension cord end.  Or you could use a screw-mount cable tie, or a normal cable tie along with a cable tie mount.

If cable ties aren't your thing, you could buy a panel mount headphone jack and install it in a small box, such as a mint tin, which you can screw to the desk leg.


How do I remove a lead stain from my windows?

Had hazy marks from lead flashing on conservatory roof.  I thought I'd try 'Silvo' which is non-abrasive and used for cleaning fine silver.  Success!!  The marks came off a treat with really minimal rubbing with a soft cloth moistened with the product. Crystal clear glass after


Can a marginal transformer be responsible for random standing pilot light cutoff?

Usually the pilot light is normally only controlled by the thermocouple/ sensor on systems of this age probably only a millivolt controlled gas valve.
What I have seen quite often is the burners get dirty some rust on the cast iron burner holes and even spider webs on them can stop the flow then a bit of gas is not burning properly and when the call for heat is gone the main valve shuts off (not the pilot) and then there is a puff of gas that flashes and that pressure blows out the pilot on shutdown.
I usually pull the burner elements and clean the tops with a wire brush , then clean each opening with a wire just small enough to go through (a small drill bit also works if there is a lot of rust. Don’t cut any more metal away.
After completing each element I reinstall them light the pilot if it went out and adjust the flame. Each burner usually has a opening that is adjustable on the back I take them all the way to blue and work to a small orange tip, then I start over, sometimes the adjustments on the first ones will be off. If they look good I will cycle the furnace a few times to see if it is going to blow itself out again.
There can be other things but with what you explain I would go there (clean) first.
As far as the age I have worked on “ancient furnaces” some solid cast heat heat exchangers (from the 30’s) that will probably last another 50 years one had all the replaced motors listed on the side and the 1 gas valve that was replaced because they wanted to add a thermocouple safety.
If the heat exchanger is in good shape you loose a little efficiency but a higher efficiency furnace will never pay for itself compared to running some of the old beasts that I have found that will probably continue with a new motor every every decade or two, check out the burners most come out in sections when cool lift pull away from the manifold (sometimes if you hit a stop rotate~90 while pulling to the back, once they clear the manifold pull it them out to be cleaned and reinstall in reverse order.


How to calculate wattage used in a solar panel set-up

I’ve not seen a golf cart battery that was only 20AH , the 215 number sounds plausible so you would have 215 Ah at 12v with 2 batteries.

Are you sure you have your numbers correct? My guess would be you have an inverter that outputs 300w at 120, to do this it would draw ~25 amps from the batteries (the draw would be more because of losses in converting 12vdc to 120v ac).

If you want your batteries to last don’t discharge past 50% but golf cart batteries “deep cycle “ can go down to 80% but will only last a couple of years.
 Using 50% this would provide around 4.3 hours of run time from the batteries alone 25amps or 107.5 ah used , your run time would be extended by adding the solar if in full sun your total run time could be 11.8 hours as you would only be drawing ~9 amps from the batteries but you know your not going to have full sun and this would leave the batteries in a depleted condition or at 50%.
If you provide more information on your inverter we may be able to provide better examples.


We can't answer that merely from what you have said.

Generally washing machines fall into two types:  normal types, which take hot and cold water connections; and heating types, which take cold-only and need more electrical power because they heat water internally.   The latter is more expensive but means you don't need to plumb a hot water line.

You can run a normal washer without a hot water line, but it won't clean clothes as well.

Generally dryers fall into two types:  Vented dryers, which have a vent to the outside.  This is how they remove water vapor from clothing - it's driven out in the air.  This also lets them dispose of natural gas exhaust. Or condensing dryers, which remove water using an internal dehumidifier-type device - instead of a vent pipe, they need a water drain connection.  Condensing dryers don't have a vent, so they can't be gas.

You can't run a vented dryer without a vent. Seriously, you do not want to do that.  You'll be putting gallons of water into the air everytime you run it, which will condense in bad places and rot out your home or spread mold.

Some stacked or partnered washer/dryers also share power supply.  For instance one common type uses a 240V/30A connection for the dryer, then the washer gets its electricity from the dryer.  This means you don't need a separate power hook-up for the washer.

In some multi-unit developments, the developer selects washer-dryers which are a) condensing, b) heating, and c) shared power supply.  This means they don't need to connect a dryer vent, hot water, or 120V power, which saves so much on the building that it justifies the more expensive washer-dryer.  If you're in such a building, you need to be aware of this and order compatible washer-dryers.