Do studs in wooden buildings eventually get replaced as they lose their structural capacity?

No.
Wood frame construction is generally done for rigidity not strength.  You can climb a tree and have the branches deflect significantly before they break - the strength is fine - if you build a house with just strength in mind then you'd be bouncing all over the place.  Wood frame construction is instead designed for rigidity such that when you walk across the floor your book case isn't bouncing up and down.
You also have to take into account that a lot of walls are not strictly part of the structure.  A lot of interior walls are only there to delineate spaces.
Now getting into the drilling a million holes over the years into studs such that they eventually fail.  Studs are under compression but are very strong in compression.  Rules for how you can notch or drill studs typically allow quite large holes for water pipes and  waste water pipes.
"Holes in bearing wall studs may not exceed 40 percent of the width of the stud.  Holes in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 60 percent of their width."
https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/drilling-holes-notching-and-boring-holes-in-wood-studs
Now given you can drill a hole 40% the width of the stud in a bearing wall, 40% of 3.5" width = 1.4" (~1 3/8).  How many 1/8" holes does it take to equal 1 3/8" = 11 just to form the diameter of the allowable hole.  I am not going to do the math on how many it would take to equal the full hole.  These holes would all have to be in the same area to achieve the accepted weakening of this member.  Now factor in that the full strength of the wall assembly at the weakened state is likely only required under 100 year design event conditions and like most things dictated by code we reach a factor of over engineering which should ensure safety and there should be no way you could drill enough holes in the lifetime of a building to put the structural integrity at risk.
A plumber or electrician drilling willy nilly through load bearing members is a different story - even then you likely only encounter problems at design conditions.


How can I effectively hide cables under my carpet or around the room?

Go up and over the door, and along the top of the wall. then down the wall to the computer. Use wiremold cable duct to make it neat. wiremold is a brand-name, I guess. Cable duct is more generic.


How do I avoid a rough surface after applying polyurethane

It is not unusual to have a "rough" coat as perceived by the user, happens to all. You should make sure to fine sand your base before you urethane, make sure you use a tack rag to clear the surface of bits that will can tribute to this. A tack rag is like a piece of gauze with sticky wax on it. You can thin the urethane with mineral spirits, a favorite mixture of many wood workers. Apply 1 smooth stroke with the brush, do not go over the same area again, you will just disturb and rough up the urethane on first stroke. Remember this is a multi layer process, multi step process.

Fine finisher sand in between coats, especially the first, that's were most the bumps come in due to surface dust, use 200-400 grit at first lightly and then go up to 600-800. Actual grits could get higher depending on your roughness.

Summary. Sand surface well to high grit, clean with tack rag. Apply thin or normal coat. Sand, use tack rag again, apply, sand, tack rag, apply.


Your window well should already have a drain that ties into the drain tiles around your foundation. This is likely already tied into your sump. Often over time the drains get clogged up and filled with debris.

The solution is to dig out the window well and unclog the drain. You should have about a foot of crushed gravel that stops 6" below the window level so that water does not pool on the surface.

It's also possible the drain has collapsed or been clogged with roots. You would need to first find the drain (dig it out) and then do a video inspection of it to confirm or deny this.


Can I replace a Maximum Bulb Wattage (Watts) 25 halogen light bulb with 5w LED light bulb? Is it safe?

When choosing lamps, as long as the actual wattage is below the rating of the fixture, you're safe.  It doesn't matter that the fixture generates a lot of light with the watts it consumes.

The equivalent wattage they talk about, like where they say this 3W LED has light output equivalent to a 15W halogen, doesn't matter when selecting lamps for a fixture.  The 3W actual wattage determines how much heat it may generate, not the 15W equivalent light output.

In fact it's likely that the LED is more efficient, with less of the electricity consumed turning into heat and more into light, but you can't count on that.  Just go by the actual wattage.


Should I add a vapor barrier when re-siding?

It depends on where you live and how you plan on attaching everything. For interior insulation you want the vapor barrier on the warm side so the colder regions would always do the interior facing and some warmer climates would do the exterior side of the insulation. The underlying rule of where would the moisture most likely be trapped still applies but it typically biased because of installation, how you plan on attaching everything. For interior walls, no vapor barrier is recommended if you use a full fill spray foam because it is a close cell foam (over 2lb density like most spray foam) and is meant to be a tight squeeze unlike most insulation and stops airflow instead of slowing it down. The same can be true for rigid foam especially for outside insulation. If you plan to use contact adhesive, liquid nails, etc glue to hold the rigid board to the house then you'll be essentially stopping all the air flow and that side would not be a candidate for a vapor barrier, additionally if you are gluing the siding on, the same rule would apply.

To sum up: If you are in a cold climate, even seasonally, it is a good idea to put a vapor barrier on the outside of the outdoor insulation as long as you are not gluing the next layer onto the insulation. This will help the trapped moisture wick out better.


I want to feed power to two outlets from one outlet. Is there a problem with code doing that?

The problem is the bathroom, not the branching
The issue you have isn't the "branch" in the circuit (T-taps, if you will, are a normal part of building wiring), it's that you can't have bathroom receptacles on the same branch circuit as things that aren't in a bathroom, or non-receptacles that aren't in the same bathroom as all the bathroom receptacles served by the circuit:

(3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of
branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least
one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to
supply the bathroom(s) receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits shall
have no other outlets.

Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom,
outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted
to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).

So, if you don't have a receptacle-only bathroom branch circuit you can tap, you'll have to pull a new homerun of 12/2 from the panel to meet Code.  Note also that you can't tap most kitchen receptacle circuits to feed lighting, either, as the kitchen small appliance branch circuits aren't allowed to serve non-kitchen-receptacle loads, period.


How can I add flooring to an attic floor with electrical wires running across it?

Definitely consider the first couple of comments regarding whether the joists are even strong enough to support a floor.

Presuming the joists are strong enough, you could probably run firring strips on top of the existing joists, these could be 2x4's on their sides, or you could rip them down to 2x2's. You would either notch them or just cut them and leave a gap every place a wire crosses the original joist. You would have to put metal plates across the gaps to protect the wires. There just isn't enough depth otherwise and you'll drive screws or nails through the wire when you install the flooring.

Alternatively, you may consider running new "joists" (check around with some builders, but even 2x4's might be sufficient if you're on 16" centers?) ACROSS the existing joists, perpendicular to them, rather than directly on top of them in the same direction. You can probably reduce the number of notches you need to cut for the wiring this way, and it would also raise the new floor high enough over the wires that you don't need to put a steel plate over each wire.

It would be pretty easy to secure these "cross joists," especially if you run them clear over the tops of the end walls.

If your original joists aren't strong enough to support a floor, you could either sister the joists, or possibly place new joists on top of them that are strong enough and are supported on the load-bearing end walls. But if you go there, you want to get a builder or engineer/architect involved if you don't have the background to design it yourself.

There might be something in the N.E.C. about a minimum distance for the wiring under the flooring, as well, despite the use of the metal plates at the points where they cross.

What's to keep somebody (even a kid) from driving a nail or screw into the floor at some future date and drive it through the wire?

You might consider laying sheet metal strips down the entire length of all of these cables.

The N.E.C. does say that cables stapled across the tops of joists the way you describe have to be protected with boards running alongside the cables (so someone stepping on the cable doesn't damage it--the board helps keep the weight off the cable).


How to measure the radius of a fillet on a non 90deg angle

I use low tech things for that kind of stuff. Bottle caps, jar lids, rolls of tape, 5 gallon buckets, whatever may fit the curve I am trying to measure. Once I find one that fits the curve, I measure the diameter and divide for the radius.
There is a formula for finding diameter if you can set a straightedge or at least create a straight line between 2 points of an arc.

I will need to find it and add it later. It is very simple, and I used to use it a lot...


Where can I find a replacement for this 3.5" door knob spindle?

If you're in an area with older homes, try your local locksmith.

The last time I had to replace a split spindle (where the split was not in the middle), the local lockmith had 'em in steel and brass.  I went with the brass, because I had to grind out a channel so it'd fit into the existing mechanism; you might have to do similar and drill it yourself.

The ones you see online probably aren't a press fit -- most of my knobs take a set screw.

You can also try a real hardware store (not a Lowes or Home Depot ... either an independant one, or an Ace, True Value, etc.)

If you strike out completely, I've also replaced the whole knob and spindle with a replacement set, and switched to a threaded spindle.  It looks like Van Dykes has a few :

http://www.vandykes.com/product/2-glass-knobs-with-spindle
http://www.vandykes.com/product/glass-knob-and-spindle-set
http://www.vandykes.com/product/glass-door-knobs-with-spindle

It looks like what you're looking for is referred to as a 'drilled spindle' (possibly drilled & tapped, if there's threading inside the holes)

Using the search "drilled door spindle", I've managed to find a shop in the UK:

http://www.doorfurnituredirect.co.uk/scpro/bernards/productscategory~prodtype~58~prodtypename~Spindles.htm

... but many of the hits talk about pre-drilled doors, rather than specificall drilled spindles.


Turning Euro wooden pallets into garage shelving with minimum tools

Those racks appear to have been constructed by simply attaching legs to halved pallets. You'll need a way to cut the pallet rails, which appear to be fairly heavy hardwood.

Once that's done, it's a matter of running 3" (75mm) gold construction screws through 2x4" (35mm by 70mm or 40mm by 90mm, maybe--whatever standard metric size is available in that range) lumber.

Standard construction-grade lumber is fine. See above for lumber and screw sizing. Do not use drywall (black oxide) screws. They're much more brittle and have less bend tolerance.
Probably not. You need to split the pallets. However, a simple high-quality handsaw will do that job.
Yes. Construction lumber is typically spruce, pine, or fir (SPF).
Yes, two vertical posts per end will work well.
I'd use three or four per joint, spaced as widely as practical (within 15mm of the edge of the lumber is fine) to create maximum diagonal rigidity. I'd probably pilot the holes through the posts and maybe partway into the pallet lumber.


Securing 3-3-3-5 SER at sub panel entrance

Yes, you're looking at a larger NM clamp here

Looking at some sizing data, a 3-3-3-5 copper SER is 0.91" in diameter.  This fits neatly into the .790-.980" cable range supported by an Arlington 843S or equivalent 1" trade size NM/SE clamp.


If the breaker pops when you turn on a specific burner, even if the cartridge is not plugged in, chances are that burner control switch has gone bad.  The power on those units goes through the four burner controls before going out to the cartridge sockets.

I had one that if turned on to any setting, would just run the burner on high.

If you can depower the unit, then you could run some continuity tests, so see if the burner control is shorting.  The controls are not a simple rheostat, but some form of high current modulator.  Off the top of my head, a replacement runs around $60.  I think I found someone selling them on eBay.


You either have a short in the circuit, a short in a component you didn't unplug on the circuit , or a defective breaker.  The last is highly unlikely, though not impossible.  You really need a licensed electrician.


Painted double basin metal utility sink. Is this worth cleaning up?

Paint strippers good for oil paints are readily available.  One popular one is called "Aircraft remover".  It will go after alkyd enamels and lacquer paints quite effectively if used as directed.

Don't assume the paint is "oil based" merely because it is not latex based.  There are some much more durable coatings out there, most of them 2-part like an epoxy.

A great many such sinks are made of galvanized steel wrapping around concrete.  If they are heavily rusted, they may look black.


Repainting metal parapet on the balcony: should you remove the old paint?

The most important part of painting is preparation.
You will want to remove all loose and flaking paint and you will want to remove all rust, which will probably involve scraping and grinding with power tools.
You will want to carefully inspect any paint that appears to be well adhered. You want to make sure that it is still stuck and that there isn't rust underneath it waiting to bubble up and pop the paint off. If you do find well adhered paint on good, solid metal, feel free to leave it. You'll probably want to give it a light sanding, just to make sure that it's got a "tooth" for the new paint to bite into, but if the rest of the paint is that old, it's probably pretty well worn, too.
Additionally, for any paint that is well adhered, you'll want to sand the edges to create a smooth transition from bare metal to existing paint. If you leave a sharp edge at the existing paint, you'll still see it when you apply the new paint.
When you start painting, be sure to use a good primer to ensure a good grip on the bare metal so your paint will stick longer. I don't think it would be an issue, but make sure the primer you pick will adhere well to existing paint as well as bare metal - a question to ask at the paint store.


Can garage and porch lights be on the same switch?

Yes you can put your exterior lights on one circuit as long as the draw from all of the lights combined does not exceed the ampacity rating of the breaker. Pretty common to have all exterior lights on a single switch (timer). The NEC doesn't care where you put the switch. You could install it in the bedroom closet if you wanted to (but I don't recommend it)


Dry Lining Wall - Should I stagger the joints in this project?

The purpose of staggered joints, is to provide  additional support and rigidity, to the the framing members below - as well as make it easier to keep a uniform surface, over any uneven framing.

Your wall should be fine, with all sheets hung vertical, on appropriately spaced furring strips.


Light fixture with 3 white, 3 black, 1 red wire

Well, the good news is each cable is unique.

The /3 cable is not like the other cables, and there must be a reason for the extra hot.  Was this ever a fan/light? It may also be a new style switch loop.
The black wire with the white tape is weird (usually it,s the other way 'round) but that tells us that the black, and its partner white, are special.  They may be a switch loop, and I would check for that with an ohmmeter after confirming power off.
The other /2 cable is plain.  I have a hunch it's either supply power, or onward power to another location.

Now, the question is what else is around here? Is there another light?  What's in the switch box? Etc.

Also, what else has lost power?


They do make roof vent kits for bathroom fans. The only problem I could see if you get a lot of snow it could get covered but other than that it would be like any standard roof vent.


How do I reattach a door handle lever with a concealed screw

My guess is that the removal of the set screw (which you called the grub screw) will allow the post piece of the door knob to be removed from the door. A good pull may be required to remove it.

You should look at the door handle on the opposite side to see if it also has a similar set screw. If it does not have any visible means of removal then the knob from the opposite side will pull from the door extracting a central shaft which is extending into the post that you see on this side. The set screw in this case is holding the handles in place from both sides.

Once you get the post off the near side reattaching your knob lever should be as easy as accessing the head of the central screw from the inside of the post piece. The central screw head may use a normal screw driver or may be a six sided hex similar to the set screw head.


What does this button on my Electrolux refrigerator do?

The button is a climate control switch. The button should be used if the ambient temperature is below 16°C.

Reference: electrolux-ui.com (model: ER8029B)

(The climate control switch can also be used if you are freezing a lot of stuff at once. You should then activate it 12 hours in advance.)


Adding recessed lighting to room with ceiling fan/light already installed, and using fan will all the light off

I did something like this a few years ago, except I had no ceiling light or fan.  I ran a 14/3 up from the wall switch that only powered the outlets.  Since I was also adding cans, I used the 6“ holes I drilled as  access to run the wires, both up the wall and between joists.

I also cut out the original junction box for the wall switch and added an old construction box, having the box removed allowed me access to drill into the top plate.  Using rare earth magnets tied to a string, I was able to stick the magnet to the bit and then pull the string back.  Then use the string to pull the wire.


How should I repair a new crack in the ceiling drywall?

Consider using a paintable latex caulk. Apply a very small amount then work it into the length of the crack with a finger. Wipe off all excess with a damp rag or sponge, then paint. It is a good method requiring no sanding. If your ceiling is painted with flat (no gloss) paint, as most are, you will not be able to see it when you are done.


What switch and relay circuitry is required to manage two water well pumps effectively?

This can be solved with four special purpose relays.  Relays are basically electrically operated switches.  Alternating relays are special relays that cycle between two or more loads sequentially when they are electrically activated.

You could cascade one triplex alternating relay with three regular (duplex) alternating relays to achieve what you want - calling pump #1 every sixth call.

The pressure switch that calls the pump would energize the coil of the triplex alternating relay.  Each of the three outputs of the alternating relay would go to a duplex alternating relay.

Each of the three duplex relays has two outputs for a total of six outputs.  You'd wire one of the outputs to start pump #1, the rest all to start pump #2.  This is what would be energized each consecutive call for water from the pressure switch-

First call:
Output 1 of triplex, Output 1 of duplex A

Second call:
Output 2 of triplex, Output 1 of duplex B

Third  call:
Output 3 of triplex, Output 1 of duplex C

Fourth call:
Output 1 of triplex, Output 2 of duplex A

Fifth call:
Output 2 of triplex, Output 2 of duplex B

Sixth  call:
Output 3 of triplex, Output 2 of duplex C

and at that point the cycle repeats.  So if Pump #1 is connected to say Output 2 of Duplex C, and Pump #2 is wired to the rest, Pump #1 will run every sixth call.

See Macromatic ARP and ATP models for an example.  This may be $300.00 or so of relays - a PLC would actually be cheaper.  The relays would be very simple.

Then again if you change your mind and you want pump #1 to run 1/7th of the time, with the PLC that's an easy programming change, with the relays you are S. O. L.

*Original answer...

  I am assuming you have a "flip flop" relay or alternating relay
  currently wired to alternate pump 1 and pump 2.   If there was such a
  thing as a six way alternating relay, that would be perfect for you,
  that might work - you could connect five sets of contacts to pump 1
  and one set to pump 2.  But I don't think such a relay is available.

  The best solution is probably a programmable relay, available from a
  variety of vendors, or a small PLC.  However there is some learning
  curve involved with either of these options.*


How to choose hole sizes when building a sorting sieve?

I have no idea how to choose your hole sizes, it sounds like you have thought it through, and I am sure some trial and error will be involved.  I can only suggest tools to make the holes.

In the smaller sizes, drill bits graduated in 1/32" or even 1/64" increments are readily available.  No need for super quality drill bits if you're just drilling plastic.

For larger sizes, there are adjustable drill bits

These have been around a long long time, and they work very well.  Just look carefully when you're shopping for the right shank.  A lot will have the shank made for old fashioned bit and brace, which won't work well in a regular modern three jaw chuck.

There are step bits that will drill holes of many sizes, you just have to pay close attention to stop at the right step:

There are also bits I have seen sold as "stepless bits" which will cut holes of any size, but to drill many holes of the same size quickly you'd need a drill press set to stop at the same depth on each hole.  They also make a slightly tapered hole, which you may find is a problem, or who knows, may turn out tobe an advantage.  It might be better drilling from the bottom rather than the top with stepless bits.


What is the best way to fix a crack in an acrylic bathtub?

When you have a crack in the bottom of the tub, the area around it will flex and bend (even if it is only slightly), tending to put stress on the crack and making the crack want to continue to grow/lengthen.

The first goal is of course to plug the leak and keep water in the tub.  But the only proper way to do that is to hold the sides of the crack together and prevent them from flexing away from each other.  The key to that is tensile strength in the repair.

Supporting the bottom of the tub from underneath will help reduce the flexing.  But foam will not provide that support.  You can compress it easily by poking your finger in it with almost no effort; forget about the weight of a whole person.  (Foam is good for temperature insulation or for deadening sound if the tub sounds too hollow.)  To support the weight and prevent flexing, you need a bed of mortar or something solid; my acrylic tub required that in its installation instructions.

Bondo will not provide any tensile strength across the crack.  If the crack was over a solid mortar bed, Bondo might be OK (but I'd still question what flexing caused the crack to begin with).  Bondo is essentially talcum powder in epoxy resin (plastic).  The epoxy resin is strong, but will still crack like the acrylic.

To provide the tensile strength across the sides of the crack, you need strong fibers like fiberglass.  Instead of powder in epoxy resin, you have strong glass fibers in epoxy resin, giving the strength to hold up to the stress and flexing.  They make boats from pure fiberglass. They don't make boats from pure Bondo.

Fiberglass is definitely the right repair for this.


How can I wire an outside motion detector light?

Your PIR light needs a constant power source, a neutral and a ground. If you would like to "steal" power from an existing interior ceiling light?.. than you would first have to make sure you have constant power into the light box, not just switched power.
So it depends how your interior light was fed originally (constant power going to the switch first or the light box first.)

If the ceiling light has only two wires(and a ground) going into the box than it's switched power.... not constant. And for that outside light to work the inside light will have to be on... Unless you put the inside light on a motion sensor and skip your wall switch completely....But thats a new bag of worms...

Otherwise....

FIRST TURN OFF THE POWER

If there are two different two wires than things are looking better. At this point you must figure out which wires you need to use.
To test that as simply as I can state it is you must go into your ceiling light box and open all the wires (remembering what goes with what because you will hook them back together after).
And also open all your wires up in your light switch box,(so no wire nuts on and all the wires are separate except grounds should stay connected in both boxes)
Than with all wires touching no metal ,turn the breaker on. Take your volt meter to each wire individually and a ground. Whenever you get 120V between a wire and ground, thats your hot! It could be in the ceiling light or the light switch box. So check both. Now see the cable that the hot is in....the other wire is your neutral. But you have one more wire in that cable eh... so what one is your neutral?

Well your light fixture is fed with a switched power... and a neutral.... So if you know what the constant power is from the previous test, than to distinguish which one is neutral and which is switched power....simply look to see which one was on your light switch screws...thats the switched power. So if brown was in your light switch box on a screw...than thats the switched. The neutral usually has a wire nut on it in the light switch box and doesn't go on anything.... But the neutral in the ceiling box will be on the light screw.

So you will attach everything back to the way it was before, except on the constant power, neutral and ground in your light box you will attach the 14/2 wire you run out to your PIR. Using wire nuts where you need to add them.


Because although it was locked, the latch was not fully engaged. If it was very cool inside and very hot outside, especially if there was any humidity, I'm not surprised to hear that the latch didn't click into place the last time it was closed.


How do I close and seal an old external vent?

I would probably use some rigid foam insulation (2 or 3" is probably good, it's generally rated at R7 per inch - and you can stack it, it doesn't have to be a solid piece), and then use spray foam to seal it up around the edges and hold it in place.

It looks like a metal sill all the way around, so that's going to cause a lot of heat transfer anyways - ideally, to make it as warm as possible, get rid of the metal. You can also then pull off the trim and just put some backing in, and a piece of drywall (or plaster) to finish up the inside.

The most important part is making sure it's sealed to the elements from the outside, like rain/snow. You don't want water coming in and getting into your walls. Depending on the outside condition, get rid of the louvres. Ideally you would put a piece of plywood in place and then if you have siding on the rest of your house, put siding over that as well. You might also be able to just leave the lovres there, but seal them up (with caulking outside, spray foam inside) so they don't open and don't let anything in.


A multi wire branch has a neutral and 2 lives in opposite phase.

What the code says is that you may only allow loads connected to only 1 live and neutral (V1 and V2 in the picture) and you are not allowed to have a live to live load (V1+V2) (which would have double voltage).


Is a Redundant Ground at Sub-Panel Permitted? Useful?

What you want is a redundant grounding conductor

In your situation, provided that conduit fill allows, pulling a redundant equipment grounding conductor (bare 8AWG copper is fine) through the conduit between the panels is A-OK -- simply land it on the ground bars at both ends of the run.

The electrodes you describe would violate the NEC though

Within a structure, grounding electrodes are connected together by grounding electrode conductors, not equipment grounding conductors, though, and trying to use an EMT to do both jobs at once violates NEC 250.121:

  250.121 Use of Equipment Grounding Conductors. An
  equipment grounding conductor shall not be used as a
  grounding electrode conductor.

So, forget the ground electrodes, pull the redundant EGC, and be happy.


How many amps does it take to power 2 AC's, a freezer, a refrigerator, 2 TV's, and a computer?

Look at the published ratings for each of the specific appliances you want to run simultaneously, and add them up. You'll have to do this yourself; we don't know which units you're interested in, and in fact it may affect which ones you purchase.

If the sum is more amps than the breaker will permit, the breaker or fuse will eventually blow when everything happens to make its peak demand simultaneously.


Why do my lights dim, when my neighbor's central AC turns on?

You and your neighbor may very well be on the same power mains feed. Any heavy current draw on one branch of the circuit will be seen as a voltage droop back up the line toward its source. As that droop passes the point where your mains connection joins in with the neighbor's mains your branch will see a corresponding droop in voltage. This can lead to a dimming of your lights.

This type of voltage droop will always exist in power feed circuits due to the resistance in the wiring. The designer of a power distribution system simply selects wiring sizes with low enough resistance (i.e. fatter sized wire) to keep the droop small enough that it does not create annoying and functional problems with devices attached to the power source. It would appear that in your case the power feed system is not designed with large enough wiring to keep droop to a tolerable level for the loads it is expected to supply. Often the case is that a power distribution network may be designed for a certain size of expected loads. Then later someone comes along and adds heavy duty loads that go way beyond the designed to capacity of the circuits.


How should I contain dust during a remodel?

If you simply tape up the plastic it will fall down. It will not matter whether you use painters plastic or heavier weight stuff. Dust walls are important, more important than that is they stay up. A leak or rip in the wrong place will still let the room get clouded with dust.

I build my dust wall with 4 mil poly and 2X4s. In areas of finished floors I use poly on the floor for spills and 1/4" plywood seamed with duct tape for durability, from dropping framing material and such. If I am using plywood protection, I build the 2X wall on the edge of the plywood. To save a lot of explanation, here is a sketch.

I have added a few pics of my last job where I built this type of dust wall, the pics were to highlight details behind the drywall after it was covered, not to highlight the dust wall, although the details show a little of the idea I am trying to get across.

To evacuate the dust I plan ahead where I can set up a box fan that runs full time while demo is going on.
This fan went in where a new window was going in, it stayed after the window was set to get the drywall dust out while sanding.

For the entrance, I do not like the zippered openings that cut into the plastic, at points in time the traffic will be heavy in and out of this space, I have tripped many times going through the zippered opening. In time I have ripped it and had dust coming out, dusting the floor, Try taping over this area again, or any area once a seal has failed. If the though is being more careful, it is easy to say, but try being careful with a large heavy item in your hands walking backwards bring in a load of materials, it only takes one time. To get past this I use a double flap of poly 4' wide at the other end of the room from the fan so the air is always drawn in through the flap door into the work space. There is a walk area outside to protect when a person steps out to keep the trash coming off the shoes. This must be strictly maintained or a trail will end up going through the house.


Cutting and repairing drywall ceiling above shower stall

I've used a circular access panel made for boats (water tight) in a ceiling above a shower. Works very well, doesn't let moisture in. The link is a textured one for boat decks, but The smooth (non-textured) look best.

Basically run clear caulk around the rim and in the screw holes.
I framed some wood backing in there between the joists to mount the rim to. A few years on, all working well. I open it a few times a year as it's the access panel for a valve to an exterior faucet.


When did the NEC code start to require the separation of neutral and ground bus bars after main disconnect?

You're after NEC 250.32(B)(1)

The applicable NEC section is 250.32(B)(1), which reads as follows ("equipment grounding conductor" = "ground" and "grounded conductor" = "neutral" for us, and exception 2 is irrelevant for this):

  (1) Supplied by a Feeder or Branch Circuit. An equipment
  grounding conductor, as described in 250.118, shall be run
  with the supply conductors and be connected to the building
  or structure disconnecting means and to the grounding electrode(s). The equipment grounding conductor shall be used
  for grounding or bonding of equipment, structures, or frames
  required to be grounded or bonded. The equipment grounding conductor shall be sized in accordance with 250.122. Any
  installed grounded conductor shall not be connected to the
  equipment grounding conductor or to the grounding electrode(s).

  Exception No. 1: For installations made in compliance with previous
  editions of this Code that permitted such connection, the grounded
  conductor run with the supply to the building or structure shall be
  permitted to serve as the ground-fault return path if all of the following
  requirements continue to be met:

  (1) An equipment grounding conductor is not run with the supply to
  the building or structure.

  (2) There are no continuous metallic paths bonded to the grounding
  system in each building or structure involved.

  (3) Ground-fault protection of equipment has not been installed on
  the supply side of the feeder(s).

  If the grounded conductor is used for grounding in accordance with
  the provision of this exception, the size of the grounded conductor shall
  not be smaller than the larger of either of the following:

  (1) That required by 220.61

  (2) That required by 250.122

The current state of this section was reached in the 2008 NEC, which forbade new construction from using the feeder neutral to provide ground for the fed system.  (Your choices now are to provide a separate ground wire, which is what is normally done, or use a distribution transformer to create a separately derived system for the fed building, which has its own N-G bond.)  Many of the installations that fall under the current exception were installed prior to the 1999 NEC, which is the first edition that forbade parallel current paths between the structures involved.


Large concrete patio poured against the foundation - should it be tied to the foundation or not?

From my experience they generally are not. Have you tried reaching out to the contractor and ask if this is something they do in general. They probably won't remember your house specifically but you could ask in general.


how thin is the top layer of a mortar shower pan

The top layer should be 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ thick.
http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-4
it can be 3/4″, but it has to be reinforced with metal lath beneath it attached to the substrate(in the comment section from the same source)


Space usage suggestions for oddly shaped room

We have a small place like that and we are having a small one piece bookshelf where we keep story books and dictionaries..


Remove a scratch from powder coated mailbox

I'd probably try a car-paint touch-up  product.


Can 12/2 cable be exposed in a crawl space?

Yes a crawl space can have your 12/2 attached directly to the floor joists if going along the joist if going perpendicular a rat run is needed for smaller than 2 ea #6 or 3 ea #8 wires see exhibit 334.1 in the code , nmb in this location has been code for decades. Rat run or 1/2” plywood minimum.
Note bored holes need no protection.


How can I protect my kids' toes from this evil grating in the floor?

If the grate is easily removable, simply lift it up and wrap it in a thin, loose fiber fabric like a muslin, cheese cloth or nice smooth burlap. (not the rough course kind). Even a piece of regular fiberglass screen would do the same thing.  This will look nice, let plenty of air through, keep excessive amounts of dirt out of duct work and help protect little piggies. Check out the fabric dept at Wally World, bet you can find what you need for a couple of bucks.


The main thinking of inspectors in my state is making sure that that NM cable entering any metal enclosure is properly bushed to prevent the bare metal from cutting into the conductor insulation. Manufacturers make plastic bushing just for this purpose. It snaps into a code size hole and has "Fingers which hold the cable in place. For reference try Googling "plastic romex connectors" and see what pops up. I know Arlington makes these thing as well many other manufacturers.


That's called peening (Wiki).

TFD – peen, v.t. :  2. to enlarge, straighten, or smooth with a peen.

  I would like to know how to go about [peening] over the end of the stick tang onto the material at the very end of the handle. –britishblades.com

(quote edited for misspelling)


possible to have too much soffit intake venting for roof/attic?

You generally want a balanced system with equal intake and exhaust areas, but if you can't balance the system, then there should be more intake area so none of the exhausts (usually near the peak) get back-drawn and act as intakes.


Suitability of flexible metallic conduit serving as ground

Re-pulling through installed flex is a nightmare. If you do, keep in mind that new-style dimers require a neutral. -EMT fittings? I'm guessing there's no red bushing either.

Flexible conduit used as ground? - InterNACHI Inspection Forum:

  "In general FMC or flexible metal conduit is limited to 6' in length when used as an EGC (equipment grounding conductor). Since this is an old installation it's likely grandfathered in, however by modern standards it's could be considered ungrounded even though all of the components of the system are metallic. Is the stuff in the photo actually FMC or is it old AC (BX) cable?"

  250.118

  (5) Listed flexible metal conduit meeting all the following conditions:

  a. The conduit is terminated in listed fittings.

  b. The circuit conductors contained in the conduit are protected by overcurrent devices rated at 20 amperes or less.

  c. The combined length of flexible metal conduit and flexible metallic tubing and liquidtight flexible metal conduit in the same ground return path does not exceed 1.8 m (6 ft). (does not include AC)

  d. Where used to connect equipment where flexibility is necessary after installation, an equipment grounding conductor shall be installed.

Non-Armored Cable flexible runs more than 6 feet need a ground wire.

said by nunya, at dslreports.com, +1'ed by Speedy Petey:

  Most BX is neither safe or acceptable for use as an equipment grounding conductor. Only BX which includes a bonding wire or bonding strip may be used as ground. Most "BX" style AC cable installed in the 30's-60's does not have the required strip.

  Using BX as a ground is extremely dangerous, because it is not a low impedance path to ground. Rather than clearing a fault, the spiral jacket (especially in places where it might have some corrosion) will heat up like a toaster element.
  I've witnessed this several times. The cable clamps in the original boxes also were not typically listed for use as a grounding electrode conductor.


Is it better to remove existing floor before placing new one

That is a common question from my customers over the years. Although it is usually better to start from a solid base of hardi-backer or concrete board subfloor, tile can be laid over an existing floor if some condition are met.

The existing floor must be sound, with absolutely no loose or compromised sections. If your marble floor is real stone and solidly adhered to the subfloor, it can be a good base for new tile.

You need to have clearance for the extra height of the new tile. Consider things like door jams, cabinets and appliance clearances. (especially the dish washer)

Your existing floor needs to be flat without humps and ridges.

Confirm that the marble surface will hold embossing and/or tile mortar. High polished marble surfaces may not be a good base unless dulled and embossed. Any and all sealers and wax must be removed. any grout lines should be leveled to tile, not recessed.

As always, if there is any doubt about using an existing floor as a base, consult an expert for an evaluation before proceeding. Tile over a firm, solid can work well, but if the existing floor is not really solid, you will be wasting a lot of time and money.  If there is any question, remove it, put down a good base and start fresh.


Assuming that the sag would only be in the middle of the front edge of the shelf you will have to add something stronger than the along the front edge length. A 1x2 on edge (actual size 1.5" vertical and 0.75" thick just is not strong enough to prevent significant sag.
Since you will already have the raw edges of the 0.25" plywood showing along the front edge an added additional piece of wood would hide those edges and trim things up nicely.
For the stronger wood piece I would suggest adding a piece of hardwood like oak such that its upper edge is even with the top plywood. The bigger the vertical dimension that this piece of wood has the stronger it will be. Over a 49.5" length I would, based upon practical experience, suggest that the oak piece be 0.75" thick with a vertical height of  about 3" actual. You would still not want to climb or sit on the shelves but they will sag way way less than your current 1x2.
If you have the plywood cladding installed so that it does not overhang the edge of the 1x2 you can use the yellow colored wood workers glue to secure the oak piece on place. A series of five or six clamps will permit clamping the piece in place. (Recommendation is to not install the lower plywood cladding till after the gluing is complete so that clamping the oak piece to the 1x2 is easy from the lower edge).


Basement framing is 100% cosmetic.  I am not sure if it is code yet because I would never worry about the code but all places that I have done basements require 16" or less.  And when I say I don't worry about it is because all basements we do are either 16 or 12 so I have never gone back to see if 24 or 18 is code.  If memory serves me 16 is needed for drywall but 24 for paneling.

Some inspectors make sure that there are two points engagement on both the bottom and top plates every span or 8 feet.  I have had maybe 2 inspectors out of 50 ever care.

In essence almost everything you are worrying about is for framing that is load bearing - for you this does not matter.

Some things you do need to worry about:

if you are doing a long wall most basement walls bulge.  Start at the bulge or give yourself adequate space.  You do not want any of the framing touching the wall.
bottom plates are PT
put some styrofoam under bottom plates
Lay down a chalk line on the floor for long walls.
When we are framing basements we build upright.  Mainly because the heights differ and I want my install snug.  We measure floor to joist on each side - one joist over.  Then minus three inches, make our two cut and slide those in snuggly.  Once we have the wall level and our boards are OC at 16 we now have a moveable wall piece that we can make slight adjustments to.  We then do the rest of the verticals OC and nail them in.  We have not attached the bottom or top plates.  We do this for the rest of the wall.  If we need to add some crossers to attach a header do our sections don't bow up then we do.  Once the wall is done then we double check the levelness and alignment.  We then nail the bottom plates in - 3 per section.  We check levelness and alignment again and then attach top plates.

Where to split long walls in basement?  Where ever you want.


Larger gutters and screens will not help. Your problem is trees/leaves.Regular cleaning of the gutters with a garden hose may help.


Where should I connect a C wire on my Goodman PGB030075-1 furnace?

Right part, wrong wire

While the terminal you have circled does attach to the transformer, it attaches to the primary side of the transformer (i.e. the AC mains side).  You need the secondary side common, which on your system is the blue wire coming off the transformer (if there are multiple blue wires leading to that terminal, you can tap any of them).


DIY table saw reusing components from other table saws

I don't know about the guts of the Ridgid saw, but I can imagine that a switcheroo isn't going to be simple. (Probably not impossible, just not simple.)

However, I have to question your motivations.

size of top? Simple -- just build a big table that you can drop the dewalt into
fence capacity? Not quite as simple, but not impossible to put a new Biesemeyer-type fence and rail on a table. (Spendy, though, if you buy new...)
mass? I know the dewalt is light and thus squirrely, but there are a number of ways of weighing it down. If you tend you use it in a table, then bolt it on and weight the table legs. If it's on the ground, you can bolt it to a long hunk of ply (which will also help with tipping).

Last but not least, the dewalt has value if you were to sell it. If you really want something more substantial, you might just sell it and buy what you want.


Padding on dining chairs uncomfortable (compressed)

To replace the foam underneath the white cover you have to remove the white cover.
When you just have the wood frame, the first part that is added is the webbing that crosses left / right and forward / back.
Once the webbing is secured, then the foam padding is added and it can be shaped like a curve on the edges or slightly thicker in the middle.
Then there may be an intermediate cover and the final white cover which is secured with the staples. Getting the cover stretched appropriately so that there are no creases takes patience.
Then the base black cover is fitted to hide the staples and edges of the white cover - so that when you grip to pull the chair you don’t feel the edge of the white cover.
This is a project that can be very rewarding.


Dimmer switch doesn't turn light on unless other 3-way switch is also on

Re-check that the correct wire is connected to the single-side of each switch.  For one switch, that's the hot lead from main power.  For the other switch, test the voltage levels on all three leads when the switch is removed.  Two of the leads will alternate between 120V and nothng when you flip the other switch; the third lead is the output line and that's the one you connect to the single-side of the second switch.

There are lots of diagrams online, and most likely you can get a copy of the one that came with your Lutron switch at their website.


What material should I use to insulate floor over a bumpout?

I had this exact problem.  It also got much worse when we refinished our basement.  Not sure if you have a basement, and if it is refinished.  Here is the summary of my issue.

The floor joists from the basement extend out to support the bump out.  So standing in the basement, you can reach out below the bump out.  The space was insulated, with the insulation sitting on the "floor" of the bumpout, meaning it was resting on MDF that was attached to the bottom of the overhanging floor joists.  The siding was then attached to the bottom of the mdf.  We do not have the insulated siding that Mike Powell mentioned, but that would be a good idea.  So above the insulation, it was open to the basement.  Air could flow into that space freely from the basement, which was not heated (the vents were closed), but stayed pretty warm in the winter, probably the 60's.    The floor upstairs was cool, but not cold.

We then refinished our basement, put in a dropped ceiling, and insulated all the floor joists in the house for noise.  This insulation prevented any air circulation from getting into the old space between the bumpout insulation and the floor.  And the drop ceiling kept most of the heat out of the basement ceiling.  So all this, you would think it would help, but it made it much worse and unbearable.  We had a guy look at it, and because the space in the bumpout is not getting warm air circulation anymore, that is why it is cooler than before.  To fix it, we need to actually remove some if the insulation, to allow as much warm air circulation to enter this space.  Still keep the insulation at the end cap of the bumpout, and on the floor, but keep it open between that insulation and the floor upstairs.

I put together a quick pic to illustrate.  This is across section on the bumpout:


It's true GFCI's do go bad and will wear out over multiple trips. So replacing one after 30 years is a good idea since the replacement is not all that expensive. But lets say the replacement does not fix the problem.

So to start, let's look at how a GFCI works. It is a closed loop system unlike an overcurrent protection. It actually measures the current in the hot wire against the return current in the neutral and if it senses a slight difference. It acknowledges there is leakage in the circuit itself. Since it is not intelligent it can only assume that there is a problem and therefore it trips.

When we troubleshoot a GFCI. WE start by removing all loads attached to the device. Then if we reset the device and check to see if trips. If it does not trip then one or more of the pieces of equipment attached to the circuit has some sort of problem. If it does trip we know that the installed GFCI device and its circuit is the problem and you begin a step by step approach to investigate and locate the problem internal to the circuit itself.

Moisture is a big player in GFCI tripping and you don't need much. For example many times on a construction site after a rain, an extension cord with a very small crack or cut in the jacket, not the insulation, will absorb enough moisture into the fill material of the cord to trip a GFCI. Remove the cord and set it out in the sun to dry for a few hours and you will be able to plug it back in and it will work.

So remove all equipment from the circuit. Check all cordage and exterior devices for moisture and make sure they are in good condition, clean and dry. Pay attention to equipment cordage that is making contact with the earth. More than likely the problem will make itself apparent. Reset the GFCI, if it stays reset then plug each piece of equipment onto the circuit one at a time and check to see which pieces of equipment are tripped your device. Replace or repair any piece of equipment causing a trip.

Hope this helps.


Most European homes use round junction boxes for electricity and other wiring, most likely similar to any of the round boxes found here.
Usually they're mounted in the ceiling (and used as a mounting point for a light fixture) but it's not unheard of to have them mounted in a wall.

The one in your picture has 2 screws with which the cover can be removed to be able to service what's inside.

It most likely contains electrical cabling but based on the height and it being located in a wall it could also be audio cabling as a preparation for wall-mounted speakers.


How to I apply a 'standard clearcoat 30 sheen' to some unfinished hard maple

I would not get your hopes up of getting an exact match.

According to the specifications on their site for that part:

  We finish all our tread materials (anything you’ll step on) with a Conversion Varnish. This is the type of finish used in the hardwood flooring industry, it’s strong and designed to take lots of abuse. It’s nearly impossible for a homeowner to achieve this level of quality, because conversion varnishes must be sprayed on, and they are only sold at specialty stores.

Looking around online, there are several conversion varnishes available (e.g., General Finishes), but finding them may be a bit difficult. General Finishes lists it as being sold at Rockler, Woodcraft, and other woodworking stores, but it does not show up on those websites. I doubt they'd have them in-store if they're not available online. Varnishes from other manufactures may be more available, but you may have to visit a specialty painting / finishing store (i.e., not the blue or orange big box).

If you are able to find the conversion varnish, you will need some spraying equipment, like an HVLP system, as well as a catalyst for the varnish. The "30 sheen" is a satin finish.

On the Product Q&A for the stair, they say:

  You can order a finish touchup kit with matching stain & clear finish spray can. This is currently not available on our website, but can be ordered over the phone.

in response to a question about filling nail holes. You may be able to get those cans, but I'm not sure they would be appropriate for anything more than touchup work. You can certainly call them to be certain.

You could use another type of clear finish, like a lacquer or wiping varnish. Those won't have the durability that conversion varnishes have (probably not an issue for stair risers), and there may be differences in the look of the finished product. Given that you're doing it yourself, though, you should expect differences in look even if you do use a conversion varnish. If you go this route, finish selection might be better asked at the woodworking stack.

You could also take them to a professional and ask if they could do it.


How should I paint cedar and pressure-treated pine?

I don't know about the cedar, but I built a screened porch a few years ago using standard PT lumber for posts and railings and painted it with a coat of primer and a coat of exterior latex pretty much as soon as it no longer appeared damp.  Of course the 6X6 posts had been up and drying for a while at that point, probably 6 months or so.  The railings were installed last and were probably only up for 2 or 3 weeks when they were painted.  When we moved from that house earlier this year there were no problems with the paint, and that was after about 2 years.

Interestingly, the only paint-related issue we had was some peeling on the existing deck railings, about 4 years old and never painted at that point, that I painted at the same time to match the new railings around the porch.  I have no idea what caused it, but I can say that I didn't prepare this older wood at all and it probably could have used at least a good pressure washing prior to painting.


What are those resin filled holes on outside walls

I suspect that the material is a lot closer to glass than resin, and is part of the "look" of this particular style of brick - that is, it came out of the brick kiln that way.

It might or might not be manganese. One of the potters I know is prone to using a light clay with manganese, which does get brown specks, but they are smaller - however, that's "pottery clay" not "brick clay" and perhaps they are smaller due to using smaller bits of manganese. Otherwise very similar in "look."

Closest I've found in a quick look is "light ironspot" - still looking for a decent picture. Name would suggest iron ore rather than manganese for a material.

In short, nothing to worry about.


Is it safe to charge a DeWALT 18v battery if the charger emits a whining noise

It's possible that the battery's days are numbered, but I doubt that the whine you're hearing comes from the battery itself.  That noise is called "coil whine" and comes from the windings of the transformer(s) inside the charger.

An electrical engineer (which I am NOT) could probably explain why you get the noise with one battery and not the other; I can only speculate that the charger is having to crank up the voltage a bit to force a charge into that one.  If that's the case, it could mean that the battery is on its way out, but in any case I wouldn't worry that it's going to blow up.


Can I use a 3-way switch as a single-pole switch?

Yes it can work.  3-way switches are spdt (single pole double throw) with 3 screw terminals, and regular switches are spst (single pole single throw) with 2 screw terminals.

Just pick the correct two contacts and you are good to go.  .

If there are two on one side and just one on the other, then connect to the one that is alone on one side, and either of the other two on the other side.

A multimeter is the quick way to figure out which terminals to use.  Just set it for ohms and you will be able to tell what happens as you toggle the switch.


What is the easiest way to remove a large root in a post hole I'm digging?

A reciprocating saw works nicely, with the proper blade. You can buy a tree cutting blade for work like this, 10-12 inches long, with long sharp raking teeth.

We had an ice storm, and the clean up of hundreds of large branches and trunks was done entirely by reciprocating saw, wearing out only three of those blades in my Porter Cable. Some trunks were over a foot in diameter. (My chain saw chose that time to be singularly uncooperative.)


Can I connect a stabilizer to an inverter?

Yes you can, but the order should be- mains to stabilizer to inverter. This way the inverter input would receive 220-240 volts. Apart from giving you good output voltage during mains on, this arrangement would also charge your batteries faster. Make sure to buy a good stabilizer with twice the wattage of your inverter. A 2 KVA Godrej or Vguard stabilizer would do fine. I have been using 3 inverters with this arrangement for 10+ years with no issues. But never connect a stabilizer to the output of your inverter as this may damage your inverter.


Handling unavoidable rust (probably?) contamination in arc welds

I am not an expert welder by any means but if you were to watch enough YouTube videos on the subject you would come to know that welding very thin materials is an art unto itself. You said nothing in your question about the type of welder that you use (ARC, MIG or TIG) but one of these types is probably going to be much better at avoiding melt through on thin materials.
From what I have learned it takes lots of practice to establish the expertise to be able to successfully weld thin materials. The 3/32" that you quote should be weldable without pin hole melt through with the proper skills.
I believe that if you can avoid getting the heat so high to avoid melt through that the rust on the inside should not be a problem.


Why did my lights go out when I accidentally dropped a charger plug on a power cord with empty sockets?

That small bright spark you saw was probably the prongs of the charger, with the weight of the charger behind it, penetrating through the extension cord insulation and hitting one or both of the extension cord's conductors.
You should carefully inspect the extension cord for the damage.  It potentially might be a shock hazard if it were to get wet at all, so its probably best to either wrap with electrician tape to protect casual contact if you intend to continue  to use the extension cord.
Most of the time the electrical tape will be sufficient for guarding against a shock hazard but realistically, if you're in doubt, get a new one.


How does hot water get circulated into an indirect fired hot water heater?

It's because inside the tank there's a coil in which circulates hot water from boiler (without mixing with clean DHW). The boiler is connected in a 'closed loop'.

The 'loop' connections are on DE, clean water enters at F and hot water exits from B.

I think they call both 'outlet' because you could use the lower one also as outlet when you drain your system. Also input to boiler sounds little weird to me.

Another option is if that thank is used as 'cold' puffer for AC: heat pump cools water inside then water is 'recirculated' trough the fan-coils. In this case return from fan-coils should be plumbed on B and cold output to F

top to bottom:
1> hot water outlet  (B)
2> input FROM boiler (D)
3> output TO boiler  (E)
4> clod water inlet  (F)

also check this


Much higher energy use, maybe due to an old electrical heater?

So my thought was, could it be that this year for example one rod in the electrical heater corroded which lead to higher restistance => More power draw?

No. Higher resistance will reduce current draw. Thought experiment: disconnect the heater completely to create infinite resistance. Will the power consumed increase or decrease?

It's time for an energy audit. You can start by finding your energy meter and taking hourly readings or time how long it takes for the meter in increment by one or ten units. If these are consistent then you can switch off each circuit in turn and measure the change in timing.

Alternately you can get a power analyser with voltage and current probes and take measurements and log data for each load.


Choosing a grout color for a large brick patio

Outdoor brick patio's do not use grout, they use polymeric sand and typically it only comes two colors, grey and tan.

You could do some research to see if it is possible to dye it but not sure how it would hold up to the rain washing through it.


Can I replace a 48" glass sliding closet door with two 24" doors?

In my area it is common in rental units to install panel doors in lieu of mirrored doors. We buy the mirrored door track, frame, roller, and hardware kits but with no mirrors. They call it a "knock-down" kit. We then cut wood or composite panels to fit where the glass would go. The manufacturer even gave us a table with net mirror glass dimensions, to use when sizing the wood panels. Check with a local high-volume window and door shop. You might even be able to get the kits from a "big-box" hardware store but I prefer to work with the guys at the sash and door shop for the personal service and expertise.

You might even be able to use your old frame and hardware, measure carefully first, then take apart the frames (they are screwed together) and cut wood panels to fit.


if this is your main panel not a sub yes you can


Is slightly high voltage bad for a refrigerator?

I agree with the others that you probably need a replacement under warranty.

Answering your question:

Most motors are rated for the UL label nominal +/- 10%.  The tolerance delivered by many utilities is their nominal line voltage +/- 5%.  The UL label on your compressor hopefully states it is rated at 115v, giving it an actual operating range of 104-126v, notwithstanding the 110v documentation that came with the unit.

Higher voltage than nominal+10% can saturate the magnetic cores of a motor, causing rapid overcurrent and overheating, which exponentially gets worse as the supply voltage is increased.  Generally though, fractional horsepower motors like the one in your freezer are somewhat more forgiving.  Also, these motors are thermally protected with an automatic reset.  Even if the voltage is a bit high and the motor gets a bit hot, the unit should cycle occasionally on the thermal overload, temporarily shutting off and then returning to service.  A thermal trip and reset like this should not cause the freezer to thaw out.


Superglues for higher heat applications?

You are either going to use glue which has melting points - I can't believe that there are no glues that can't handle computer heat - or caulk/silicone which may handle heat better but has some elasticity to it so it may move or have issues too.

Really best options are epoxy or weld it.  If you don't want either of those than you have to choose the one of the two above that you can live with.


Usually the symptoms you describe here:

  the pressure will start to go until we have no water at all. We wait a couple hours or so and it starts working again.

Mean that the recharge rate (inflow of water from the ground to your well) are insufficient to keep up with your use. This can be compounded if the overall water level in the well varies since the water in the well above the pump serves as a store of water that can be pumped out, without needing to be immediately replenished. If the overall water level drops that will reduce your storage above the pump, and often also reduce your recharge rate.

There are a variety of techniques and technologies that can be applied, many expensive, a few less so, and they depend on the specifics of your well and pump installation. If you happen to have a well that is much deeper than your pump placement, you can sometimes lower the pump - but that's a fairly rare situation. Hydrofracture uses high-pressure water to attempt to increase the recharge rate by cracking the rock at the bottom of the well. Drilling the well deeper is a fairly simple approach, but pretty expensive since it requires a drill rig and assembling the entire drill rod to get down to the bottom of the existing well, and then drilling it deeper. Depending on your local strata, that approach can backfire.

One relatively easy place to start is to deal with any leaks or excessive water use by changing fixtures, so as to reduce your water use and thus the demand on the well. If you have an old-fashioned toilet that uses 3 or more gallons per flush, replacing it with a modern 1.25 gallon per flush (unless they have gotten even lower) unit might save a lot of water, so long as it's a quality unit that does not take 3 flushes to clear. If you already have 1.6 GPF toilets that's not such a big difference. Water softeners also vary quite a bit in how much water they use for recharging.


How can I remove a granite countertop from a wooden vanity?

You'll have to get it started somewhere, but a thin wire wrapped on a handle at each end (as for cutting cheese) will normally cut things off if glued with something reasonable (ie, silicone or similar.)

If they epoxied it in place, it's going to be much more difficult. Heat would be my first approach in that case, hoping the stuff softens, or turns out to be hot glue rather than epoxy.


While the observed behavior does not correspond with your conjectured wiring  description -- it does correspond with your suggestion that the fan and light switches were interchanged. Based on your diagram, the following wiring should work:

Black from house nuts with White to the light switch (tag this wire with a piece of electrical tape!) and one of the Blacks on the fan switch.
White from house nuts with White to fan.
Other Black on fan switch nuts with Black to fan.
Black to light switch nuts with Blue to fan.
And of course, all the grounds together.

Last but not least -- I suspect the Blue (probably actually red, but w/e) wire to the fan and the White wire to the fan were swapped at the fan from your description -- the behavior in your description would have the fan running all the time with both switches controlling the light. You'll want to fix that while you're changing the wiring in the fan switch box -- the best way to do so is to go into the fan box and switch the blue and white wires if white isn't to white and red or whatever isn't hooked up to blue.


The top three things that decide a building's longevity are:

The roof
The roof
The roof

So, if you are serious about this, there are two ways to go.

Invent a 1000 year roof

Good luck.   Nobody has figured out that one.   Well, cavers have.

Make a structure that will last 900 years after the roof fails.

This is the fun one!  Heck, it's be worthy of a doctorate thesis.

When the roof fails, make the rest of the structure stable enough that the next guy can just put another roof on it.

Fortunately you're in Europe, where there are thousands of ruins to study, so you have lots of examples of what has worked in the past.   You can blend this with the latest fabrication tech.

By the way, concrete does not have a 100 year life.  There is 2000 year old concrete out there.  The biggest problem in concrete is the use of steel reinforcing rod, which oxidizes when exposed to water and expands when it oxidizes.  This causes a "jacking effect" which greatly worsens water leakage and ultimately shatters the concrete structure.  There are other re-rod materials which do not do that, they are not used because they are more expensive.


Why can I no longer turn the knob of my self-locking door from the inside?

There's a pivot joint in the middle of the knob shaft which lets the two ends rotate relative to each other. You need to get things lined up so each end of the shaft engages just its side of the lockset. That may take some experimentation to get the amount screwed into each of the knobs just right to balance this out, though the cross-pin should help you find the right position.


First, you must address the cause of the separation/bubbling or it will happen again after you repair. Damage like this is typically caused by moisture, which could be caused by a leak, improper ventilation, insulation gap or improper moisture barrier and is likely on the inside of that wall. This doesn't look like a basement concrete wall but moisture is common on these and difficult to resolve, often involving drainage and waterproofing repair from the exterior. Visual inspection of a drywall wall can often miss important clues, you could try a moisture meter or look above (attic) and below (basement) this spot for clues what could be going on inside.
Once the source of the moisture is resolved, patching drywall is fairly straightforward but matching texture is much more difficult. You'll have best results if you're able to determine and duplicate the original application method and practice on a scrap piece of drywall. Ceilings are often textured in similar ways so videos detailing ceiling texture repair may help if you've never done this before.


What's a good tool create a floorplan with?

I'm not sure if Software Recommendations are on topic at DIY.SE, on a lot of SE sites they aren't, but it's up to the individual site's 'community'.

That being said, Sweet Home 3D is easy enough and free enough to create a floor plan. Here's where I include a screenshot for bonus points:

Also, (formerly Google) SketchUp would probably accomplish a decent floorplan as well.


How can I keep a deadbolt functional in a door that moves with the seasons?

My folks have the same issue. They have a lot of moisture in clay soil, and even with modern frost footings this happens. There's really no hope of preventing seasonal movement.
I think enlarging your strike plate bore is the right fix. Be sure to maintain security by installing a thicker plate if needed.


What causes wet/damp concrete blocks in a newly built shed?

Concrete and plaster are porous materials; water can penetrate them, and in fact cinder block is more or less a sponge for water. In addition, the mortar used to build the wall will have only just cured completely after three weeks, and while it's curing it will actively accept water.

To avoid this dampness, you should apply a sealant. There are sealants like Thompson's Water Seal which are designed to be re-applied regularly but which are clear and otherwise inconspicuous, or there are sealants like latex or tar-based coatings which are more permanent but also more obvious; your call. Sealing the outside is the better option when the option is available; by "outside", I also mean any courses of block laid down underground as a foundation, which requires you to dig a trench around this brand-new shed to access them.

Sealing the inside will prevent interior dampness, but it will also allow the block to continue to absorb water from outside the shed, and if you live in an area where deep freezes are a concern (the ground freezes deeply, thaws, refreezes, etc for several cycles each winter), the water trapped in these blocks will freeze, expand, and cause fracturing and eventual disintegration of the blocks and the shed.


How can I paint over an existing paint design without making it permanent?

Some ideas

hang up fabric?
go to a large format printer (sign shop) and print banners and hang those?
get $10 shower panelling from Home Depot and tack those up on the wall (and paint on those)
don't bother with a 'theme' for the baby's room. I know a lot of people like to do it, but it's a lot of work, the kid doesn't really care, and they grow out of it really fast. That and for a lot of people, the baby ends up sleeping in the parents room anyways.


What is the extra pipe going into my sump pump pit?

You have two questions here,  First, I think the larger of the two pipes could be a vent pipe connected to a radon exhaust system.  Does this pipe connect to any other pipes or a box with  a radon sensor?

Second item, the receptacle shown is a single use type. Sump pumps will often nuisance-trip GFCI receptacles. Much the same as a refrigerator is put on a single non-GFCI receptacle to prevent nuisance tripping, a sump pump or other motor loads are also put on non-GFCI circuits. This is OK if the receptacle is a single use dedicated to the specific appliance.


Can I move the electric breaker panel a little, and put in smaller closet?

You cannot do what you propose. This would create a new installation that would have to meet current code. As you describe this would not even be close to making the clearances.

You can however flip the panel around 180 deg where it is now and cover it with a picture or something else that is temporary. You could even simply paint the cover the same as the wall so it may blend in better.


Difference in total pressure when HVAC system is on or off

If you are measuring the pressure inside the duct, before the diffuser, the pressure should be detectable.  The velocity pressure is given by Pv = pV^2/2 where Pv is velocity pressure, p is the density and V is the gas velocity.

Taking a wild guess at a velocity of 5 m/s, gas density of 1.29 kg/m3, then Pv = 16 Pa

The static pressure should be equal to the pressure loss across the diffuser, which may not be very large, but is probably in the range of 5 - 10 Pa.

I would suspect your problem is one or both of two:

The BMP180 is a barometric pressure sensor, and is designed to measure pressures on the order of 900 - 1000 mbar, you are asking it to detect a change of about 0.25 mbar, which is very much at the limit of its accuracy (regardless of how it's advertised).  Moreover, the electronics to which it is connected will add error to its measurement as well.  Static and total pressures in a duct are typically measured using a differential manometer, comparing the pressure inside the duct to the pressure outside the duct, because this is a much smaller number and allows a much more sensitive instrument.  Velocity pressure is usually measured by comparing the static pressure and the total pressure inside the duct.
Placing a flat pressure sensor (presumably mounted on a circuit board) into an airstream will likely not yield the stagnation pressure of the gas in the airstream at the aperture.  The sensor and the circuit board will so dramatically disturb the gas flow as to change the direction and likely create a point of 0 velocity at the pressure sensor.  Total pressure measurements are taken using pitot tubes which are carefully designed so that they will allow the gas to flow around them with minimal disturbance and collect the stagnation pressure at the aperture.  Once again, I think the BMP180 is the wrong instrument.

If you aren't too concerned about accuracy, you can make a makeshift pitot tube out of a piece of copper tubing bent so that the tip will point into the gas stream.  The more aerodynamic the tip, the better.  I wouldn't use this for spec'ing a $100,000 fan, but for fun around the house, it might be enlightening.

As far as the manometer, you may try using a tube, folded in a U-shape and taped to a ruler marked in millimeters, and filled halfway with water.  This will still just barely register at the small pressures you're looking at.  YOu can experiment with changing the angle of it to make it more sensitive.  The greater the slope, the more the water will move in response to a given pressure.


What would cause a Klein ET300 to Identify multiple breakers for the same outlet?

I have had trouble with the automatic modules like this in the same panel even with repeated checks as needed by the unit to identify the correct breaker the signal must be the same value on both breakers. The only way to be 100% sure is with very expensive meters +500$ like the greenlee CS8000. There is a trick I learned before getting an expensive scanner, installing an old fashion light flasher in a fixture (the small blue button that went under the lamp) and then look with an amp clamp for the circuit that was pulsing. This worked on circuits that could not be powered down. I haven't seen the little button flashers for a few years I am not sure if they are still sold. Also it takes a large wattage lamp an LED probably would hard to detect because the current draw is so small.


How can I find thecapacity of an older model dryer?

I tried googling and found this:

Question about 79891 dryer

which is the identical question you are asking. The answerer stated that the full model number is 110.87980100. Based on that and searching again I get:

Question about 110.87980100 capacity

which states for model 110.87980100 the capacity is 7.0 cu ft


I need some type of ceiling in the downstairs bathroom that will allow me access to the pipes.

I have used tin squares on basements and you could get screws that match the tin finish.


Must I switch both live and neutral on equipment that is not part of a permanent installation?

In the case of a Class II power supply (wall wart) -- there is no power switch, and the equipment frankly doesn't care which way it's plugged in as it treats the mains as if it were floating and all the user-touchable parts are well-insulated from the mains.

For other equipment, a polarized plug is used that can only go into its mating mains receptacle one way around.  This means that the appliance designer can safely assume that the hot wire is hot and the neutral wire is neutral, instead of having to design defensively against being plugged in the other way around.

Since your wall sockets are old, crusty, and not polarized, though -- you'll have to have them replaced by polarized sockets in order to deal with this though, or switch both poles in the appliance.  Check what your national electrical regulations have to say on this.


Ceiling access panel or pvc pipe options

If you're not afraid of plumbing, move it. If you're not confident in your plumbing abilities, frame around it.


Gas furnace kicks on then off frequently

WARNING:
Furnaces are expensive, complex pieces of equipment. If you don't have the proper tools and/or knowledge, it's often best to let the professionals handle maintenance and repair.
Gas Furnace Ignition Sequence:

Thermostat calls for heat.
Pilot gas valve opens.
Ignition control starts (spark or glow).
Pilot gas ignites.
Flame sensor detects pilot flame.
Main gas valve opens.
Main burners ignite.
Blower timer starts.
Flame sensor detects main burner flame.
Blower starts.

High Efficiency Gas Furnace Ignition Sequence:

Thermostat calls for heat.
Draft inducer starts.
Vacuum switch detects negative pressure.
Pilot valve opens.
Ignition control starts (spark or glow).
Pilot gas ignites.
Flame sensor detects pilot flame.
Main gas valve opens.
Main burners ignite.
Blower timer starts.
Flame sensor detects main burner flame.
Blower starts.

Ignition Problems:
Vacuum Switch Not Closing
In a high efficiency furnace, if the vacuum switch does not close after a certain timeout. The furnace will shut down, then possibly retry a few times depending on model.  If after a given number of tries the switch still does not close, the furnace will enter lock out. Once in lock out, the furnace has to be manually reset (depending on model).
The vacuum switch will look something like this...

And will have a rubber tube connecting it to the draft inducer. This part cannot be repaired, and must be replaced if it's faulty.
Pilot Not Igniting
If the pilot does not light, you'll first want to check to make sure there is something trying to ignite it.  Typically a spark or glow ignitor is used, so first you'll want to determine which is being used.
Glow Ignitor
A glow ignitor looks similar to this, though may not be visible without further disassembly.

It works by passing a current through it, causing it to heat up and glow. It should heat up enough to ignite the pilot gas. If it doesn't heat up, it should be replaced.
Spark Ignitor
A spark ignitor looks like this.

Take notice of the thick, often orange or red wire that is typically used to connect the ignitor to the ignition control module.  This device works by generating an electrical arc between the two probes, causing the pilot gas to ignite.  If there is no spark, you'll have to replace the ignition control module and/or the ignitor itself.  If the ignitor is not igniting the gas, but there is a spark. You can try cleaning the electrodes with fine steel wool, to remove any carbon buildup.
Pilot Not Proving
For a pilot to "prove", it simply means that the flame sensor has sensed the pilot flame.  If there is no pilot or the sensor doesn't detect it, the furnace will often purge the system and then try again. Furnaces will often try a set number of times, before entering lock out.
If you can see the pilot flame, but the sensor is not detecting it. Try gently cleaning the sensor with fine steel wool, to remove any built up carbon. Also make sure the sensor is in the proper location with respect to the flame (Check the owners manual for proper placement), and adjust as necessary.  If that doesn't work, replace the sensor.
Main Burner Not Proving
If the main burner ignites, but the furnace shuts down before the blower starts.  You'll want to check the main flame (or rollout, high limit, etc) sensor(s).  If your furnace has error code indicators, check those and compare to the owners manual for translation.  In this case, you'll want to test and/or replace each sensor and/or contact an HVAC technician


How can I easily and accurately perform a small-scale landscape survey?

Option #1:

Find a few objects (house, trees, etc.) that, together, allow at least one of them to be level line-of sight from anywhere in the yard.

Tape a laser pointer on the end of a level (taped so you can use the level as a sort of monopod resting on the ground).

Move around the yard, hold the level level, and point the laser at one of the objects. 3a. Have someone at the object use a measuring tape to record the measurement. 3b. Subtract the length of your level.

Once you have all of your measurements, figure out the elevation offsets of the objects in relation to one another and offset measurements against them accordingly.

For example, in this diagram from Practical Engineering's YouTube on land-surveying, the human can be replaced with a level with a laser-pointer on the top. Then "measured height" is the measurement at your object (step 3a); the "eye line height" is the height of your spirit-level (step 3b); subtract the spirit-level from your measured height to get the the "relative height" (step 4)

Option #2:
Use a photogrammetry program like PhotoModeler (http://www.photomodeler.com/) to combine photographs taken using a tripod and a digital camera from different vantage points. Of course, these apps are incredibly expensive, probably cost more than the gadgets you mentioned. Unless you happen to already own a license to one of the AutoCAD products that gives you access to AutoDesk's photogrammetry app, ImageModeler 2009 (http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/pc/index?id=11390028&siteID=123112).


What is This Metal Flashing and Hollow Space Where Top Plate Should be

At one time that metal piece was probably part of a vent pipe to transition a range hood up through the ceiling. If it had been in use there was likely to have been a rectangular to round transition that then piped out through a shrouded roof vent.

Just drilling a hole through the bottom of that metal piece may require a special treatment such as a grommet to protect the electrical wire from the sharp metal edges.


Remove Urine from Amana In-Wall Heating/Air-conditioning Unit

If there truly is urine or dried up remains of urine in the heater one way to clean it up is to douse and wipe it up with a product such as "Nature's Miracle" which neutralizes the odor causing organics in urine and its by-products.


What is this called (adjustable angle pipe footplate)?

Swivel Pipe Flange: (amazon.com)

Railing Fittings: (hollaender.com, the site has all sorts of stuff like this)

Google search: (boat canopy chrome swivel joints): (sheridanmarine.com, accepts 7/8 {sounds like 3/4 EMT to me} ;)


Why do my lights stay on after adding one to a three-way circuit?

OK, I notice that in the "junction" box, you have matched up all black wires and all white wires. As if you expected that all wires just come naturally color-coded like that.  No, that does not happen, unless you do it yourself.

Designing a 3-way+lamp complex is not that hard.  Certain wires have to go certain places, and they have conventional color codes.  But the wires don't come that way by default, so you must forcibly "take over" the wire colors by remarking.
And by "must" I mean for the sake of doing sure, steady and efficient work when you are a novice. Code doesn't actually require re-marking, unless the wire is white.
Further, the topology of the cables must be "Tree" or "Vine".  It cannot ever be "Loop".  For instance your drawing shows a 14-2 running from the light to the upstairs switch.  Nosirree, can't do it.
The 3-way rules (and conventional colors)
You can take a blank sheet of paper, draw the boxes, draw cable routes connecting them, and then add the wires to this diagram as needed.  Draw each one:

two (2) Travelers YELLOW must connect all switches, in string fashion. 2 wires here. There's no need to distinguish one from the other, so they are both yellow. They go on the brass screws of 3-ways.*

Always-hot BLACK must connect the power source with one of the 3-way switch "commons".

Switched-hot RED must connect the other 3-way switch "common" with all of the lamps.

Neutral WHITE must connect the power source with all of the lamps.  Switches installed or wired post-NEC 2011 also need neutral wired to one switch (see dashed line here), that's for smart switches.

So draw all that out.  Once you do this, it will become perfectly apparent which cables need how many wires, and how to remark them so they are colred by function.  You can also see what went wrong in your junction box.
Most of the time it will work out "nice and neat" in the sense that no cable will need more than three wires.
Sometimes, you get into a jam where you need 4 or 5 wires in a cable.  (for instance, if we were trying to deliver switched-hot (RED) and neutral (WHITE) to the upper right lamp via the 3-way switch cable, we'd need 5 wires - whoopsadaisy!)  The solution is to rearrange the cable topology so the 3-way switches are a "spur line" - a branch that contains all the switches and only switches.  This sometimes means running a /3 alongside a /2, but them's the breaks.  I believe your setup came to you that way.  The wires up the spur need to all be /3 cable (the first segment to bring neutral to a 3-way, and the other segment for 2 travelers and a common).
Other times you'll get a happy accident where you need black, red, white and by golly, that's what's in the cable!
When you build it for real, use the tape to mark the wires. Believe me, you'll thank me next year when you're trying to troubleshoot it.
Marking rules for white wires.
A wire which didn't start hot can never be re-marked to white.   However white can be reused as a hot wire if neutral is not present, but there's a pecking order to it.

White must be neutral if neutral is in the cable.
Otherwise, if always-hot (black) is in the cable, white must be always-hot.  Often you have a black-white cable and you need black-red, and you can't mark the white to red, you must mark the white to black and the black to red.
White can never, ever be switched-hot (red).
If you have 2 travelers and always-hot, white must be always-hot (and must be marked).
If you have 2 travelers and switched-hot, white must be a traveler (and be marked).


What are the proper materials and method to hang heavy-duty shelves in a garage for storage?

Since you are contemplating shelving, I am going to assume that

you want to store more stuff in a given square footage than you can without shelving, and
that you want to be able to access that stuff randomly, that is, without removing items piled upon the item that you want.

What is the Maximum Weight I will be Storing?

I've got a shelving unit in a storage area that can fit at absolute maximum volume capacity about 24 of these 10 gallon storage bins:

With all 24 on the shelves, I physically cannot add any more weight to the shelves because all of the volume is already consumed.

I estimate the maximum weight that I put in each of those bins is about 50 pounds of stuff.  From moving them around and comparing them to the dumbbells at the gym, it's way more that 20 pounds and definitely less than 100 pounds.  As a reference, filling the tub with water would weigh 81 lbs, filling with lead is about 946 pounds.

So, based on my estimate, I will be storing up to about 1200 pounds (24 tubs x 50 pounds each) of stuff on that shelving unit.  More than 1200 pounds is unlikely because the shelf will reach its volume capacity first.

In this case I dare not use a shelving unit that will collapse under less weight than 1200 pounds because there will be nothing preventing an unsuspecting family member from exceeding that weight by adding another item to the shelf.

The shelving unit in the example above is 4'x2'x8' (WxDxH) or 64 cubic feet.  Given the 1200 pound capacity, the density of stuff I am storing works out to 18.75 pounds per cubic foot.  When I design shelving for my home, I use the round number of 40 pounds per cubic foot for a 2x safety factor.

For your example of 1.5'x8' shelves, assuming they extend to an 8' ceiling, you should design for an astounding 3840 pounds of load (1.5'x8'x8'x40 pounds per cubic foot) to be safe.  This is not an exaggeration.  Good shelving allows you to store a remarkable amount of weight in an extremely small volume, that is its whole purpose after all.

Why Wall-Mounted Shelving is the Wrong Approach for High Density Heavy Storage

The stuff you are storing on wall mounted shelving is an overhung load.  The wall mount shelving supports this overhung load by applying a torque to the wall to which it is mounted.  Walls in residential construction are not designed to support a significant amount of overhung load.

To make matters worse, the torque on the wall increases with the square of the depth of the shelving because you are increasing both the weight and the lever arm of the overhung load. So, the torque from an 18" deep shelf is nine times the torque from a 6" deep shelf.  Because of the squared relationship with torque, I never use wall-mount shelves deeper than 10".

On top of all this, even if your wall is able to withstand the torques involved, there are two additional worrisome aspects to consider:

The wall is now supporting an additional several hundred or thousands of pounds of weight vertically -- something that it was surely never designed for.
There are extremely high multiplied forces where the horizontal shelf brackets meet the wall as a consequence of leverage -- anywhere you find high forces like this, you should also expect catastrophic failure.

A real risk is this scenario: A child climbs a wall mount shelf loaded with hundreds of pounds of stuff.  The weight and motion of a child causes the multiplied forces in the bracket to exceed the failure strength of the bracket.  This causes a catastrophic failure of the shelf's ability to support the load, and the child and load falls to the floor, crushing the child.

Use Free-Standing Modular Shelving Instead

All of the problems that results from multiplying forces, the squared relationship of torque with shelf depth, and a wall that can't support weight are alleviated by using free-standing shelving.

I recommend using a properly engineered system like EZ Rect Type 1.  It looks like this:

As I understand it, the EZ Rect system's patent has long expired, and there are now many manufacturers of that system.  I've been using a generic version of that system for all my high-density household storage for almost 10 years.

Here are the benefits of EZ Rect Type 1 shelving solution as I see it:

each "bay" is usually specified to support in the range of 7000 lbs, so there is very little risk of overloading your shelf with household items (remember you'll hit the volume limit first)
the only real risk of catastrophic collapse is by racking or toppling, both of which can be mitigated by fastening the shelf to a wall
there are multiple manufacturers and distributors of the same compatible system which means you can buy compatible pieces as you go (you may want to confirm compatibility before investing heavily)
you can add and remove shelves and adjust shelf spacing after the shelf has been erected
there are no diagonal supports that interfere with access or limit storage
the "shelf" part of the system can be bought and cut from the most cost-effective sheathing available at your Home Depot/Lowes/etc
the dimensions of the "shelf" part are a round number of inches, which makes it easy to get someone to cut the shelving using a panel saws at the store
the dimensions of the "shelf" usually can be evenly cut from a 4'x8' sheet
the "post connectors" and "frame connectors" can be mix and matched to achieve your desired combination of width and depth
the "posts" come in different heights and can be custom cut to length with a hack saw
if you don't need the shelf anymore, it collapses to a very compact size
erection and dismantling requires only a hammer and is quite quick
you take the shelving with you when you move, and it is easy to move when dismantled

Whatever system you end up with, you should expect the above benefits to be standard -- if it's not, keep looking.

Here is a picture from my last moving day.  Shown is 7 "bays" of dismantled shelving capable of safely storing about 24 tons (42,000 lbs) in about 600 cubic feet of space.

Examples of Collapses

I've encountered an amount of skepticism about whether catastrophic failure of shelving is, in fact, something to be concerned about.  Here are two examples of catastrophic failure.

Worker Dies in Mezzanine Collapse

A worker died in this workplace accident in 2012 when an overloaded shelving system collapsed.

This is an extreme case of what can happen.  I think it is instructive of the dangers nonetheless.

Jon Skeet's Cookbook Shelf

The great Jon Skeet tweeted this photo of what seems to be catastrophic failure of a wall-mount Cookbook Shelf:


Want to drain/change compressor oil, but there's no outlet

If there's a window, you don't need a dipstick.

If there's no lower outlet, open the inlet and turn it over. Or, suck it out (auto parts stores typically have something for doing that.)

Compressor oil changing does not need to be especially convenient as it's relatively infrequent, and the scale of compressor you show is not impossible to turn over by hand - so, no drain plug = one less place to leak, not "trolling"


How can I identify the cause of ceiling water damage?

Not sure if you removed the insulation to take the pics, but if not then missing insulation will create a cold spot which will certainly exacerbate condensation.

I always start with a thorough exterior inspection if possible (to rule it out), but condensation is extremely common in older homes, especially where a ceiling meets an exterior wall. Poor insulation installation at this point is common (it's difficult for some guys to get it right down to meet the insulation in the wall or up to the wall plate etc. as it's often a small space).

Just be aware that there may be an intentional air gap which the insulation should not block. Venting cold roofs is important to prevent warm air escaping the house and condensing on the underneath of cold roof coverings.